,,ca!dral ,,cities ,,( ,,spa9 ,,uni=m ,,) ,,?is ,,volume ,,ca!dral ,,cities ,,( ,,engl&4 ,by ,,george ,,gilb]t4 ,) #fj reproductions f wat]-col\rs by ,w4,w4 ,,coll9s1 ,r4,i4 ,demy #hvo1 #afs4 net4 ,,ca!dral ,,cities ,,( ,,france4 ,by ,,h]b]t & ,,he/] ,,m>%all4 ,) #fj reproductions f wat]-col\rs by ,,h]b]t ,,m>%all1 ,r4,w4,s4 ,demy #hvo1 #afs4 net4 ,also l>ge pap] edition1 #b #bs4 net4 ,,books ,,illu/rat$ ,,by ,,joseph ,,p5nell ,,italian ,,h\rs4 ,by ,,h5ry ,,james4 ,) #cb plates 9 col\r & num]\s illu/rations 9 black & :ite by ,,joseph ,,p5nell4 ,l>ge cr[n #dto4 ,price #bjs4 net4 ,a ,,little ,,t\r ,,9 ,,france4 ,by ,,h5ry ,,james4 ,) #id illu/rations by ,,joseph ,,p5nell4 ,pott #dto4 ,price #ajs4 net4 ,,engli% ,,h\rs4 ,by ,,h5ry ,,james4 ,) #id illu/rations by ,,joseph ,,p5nell4 ,pott #dto4 ,price #ajs4 net4 ,,italian ,,j\rneys4 ,by ,w4,d4 ,,h[ells4 ,) #ajc illu/rations by ,,joseph ,,p5nell4 ,pott #dto4 ,price #ajs4 net4 ,,ca/ilian ,,days4 ,by ! ,hon4 ,,john ,,hay4 ,) #aaa illu/rations by ,,joseph ,,p5nell4 ,pott #dto4 ,price #ajs4 net4 ,london3 ,,william ,,he9emann #ba ,b$=d ,/reet1 ,w4,c4 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration3 ,,burgos4 ,,! ,,ca!dral ,,ca!dral ,,cities ,,( ,,spa9 ,,writt5 ,,& ,,illu/rat$ ,,by ,w4 ,w4 ,,coll9s1 ,r4,i4 ,illu/ration3 colophon ,,london3 ,,william ,,he9emann ,,new ,,york3 ,,dodd1 ,,mead ,,& ,,company #aiji ,all rights res]v$ ,copyright1 ,london1 #aiji1 by ,william ,he9emann & ,wa%+ton1 ,u4,s4,a41 by ,dodd1 ,mead ,co ,,preface ,spa91 ! c\ntry ( contra/s1 ( races diff]+ f "o ano!r 9 habits1 cu/oms1 & language1 has "o great ?+ t welds x into a homog5e\s nation1 & ?is is its ,religion4 ,:]ev] "o's foot/eps w&]1 be x 9 ! progressive prov9ces ( ! nor?1 ! m$ivalism ( ! ,great ,pla91 or 9 t /ill ea/]n portion ( ! s\?1 ,&alusia1 ?is "o ?+ is ev] omnipres5t & /amps itself on ! memory z ! great liv+ =ce ?r\gh\t ! ,p59sula4 ,9 h] ,ca!drals & ,*ur*es1 h] ru9$ ,mona/]ies & ,conv5ts1 !re is m ?an abundant evid5ce ( ! vitality ( h] ,fai?2 & we c see h[1 aft] ! expulsion ( ! ,moor1 ! weal? ( ! nation p\r$ into ! c(f]s ( ! ,*ur* & !re c5tralis$ ! life ( ! nation4 ,9 ! m\nta9 fa/nesses ( ,a/urias ! *ur*es ( ,santa ,m>ia de ,n>anco & ,san ,miguel de ,l9o1 dat+ f ! n9? c5tury & contempor>y ) ,san ,pablo & ,santa ,cri/9a1 9 ,b>celona1 are ! e>lie/ ,*ri/ian build+s 9 ,spa94 ,z ! ,moor 0 pu%$ fur!r s\?1 a new /yle foll[$ 8 retreat+ /eps2 & ! ,romanesque1 introduc$ f ov] ! ,pyr5ees1 became ! adopt$ =m ( ar*itecture 9 ! m or less settl$ p>ts ( ! c\ntry4 ,creep+ s\? ?r\gh ,leon1 :]e ,san ,isidoro is well wor? m5tion1 we f9d ! f9e/ examples ( ! p]iod 9 ! elev5? & twelf? c5turies1 at ,segovia1 ,avila1 & ! gr& ,cat$ral ,vieja ( ,salamanca4 ,spa9 s\ght help f ,france to expel ! ,moor1 & x is b natural t ! m advanc$ nation %\ld leave h] m>k some:]e & 9 "s way 9 ! c\ntry %e pacifically invad$4 ,be=e ! spread ( ?is influ5ce became g5]al1 we f9d at lea/ "o great monum5t ( native g5ius rise up at ,t>ragona4 ,! ,transition ,ca!dral !re c lay claim to be entirely ,spani%4 ,x is ! epitome & outcome ( a ye>n+ = ! display ( ,spa9's own tal5t1 & is "o ( ! mo/ int]e/+ & beautiful 9 ! :ole c\ntry4 ,tol$o1 ,leon1 & ,burgos are ! ?ree ,ca!drals kn[n z ! ,fr5* ,ca!drals ( ,spa94 ,!y are ,go?ic & ! fir/ nam$ is ! f9e/ ( all4 ,spani% ,go?ic is be/ exemplifi$ 9 ! ,ca!dral ( ,b>celona4 ,= late-,go?ic1 we mu/ g to ! huge /ructures ( ,salamanca1 ,segovia1 & ! ,ca!dral at ,seville :i* almo/ ov]:elms 9 ! gr&eur ( its scale4 ,aft] ! close ( ! fifte5? c5tury ,italian or ,r5aissance influ5ce began to be felt1 & ! decoration ( ! ,plat]esque /yle became ! vogue4 ,san ,m>cos at ,leon1 ! ,univ]sity ( ,salamanca1 & ! ,casa de ,ayuntami5to at ,seville are among ! be/ examples ( ?is4 ,! influ5ce ( ,*urrigu]a1 :o evolv$ ! ,*urrigu]esque /yle1 is to be met ) 9 almo/ e ,ca!dral 9 ! c\ntry4 ,he x is :o 0 responsible = ^? great gild$ alt>s ) _! enorm\s twi/$ pill>s s famili> to travell]s 9 ,spa92 & :i*1 ?\gh no d\bt a tribute to ! glory ( ,god1 "o feels are m a vulg> display ( weal? ?an a ta/eful or arti/ic addition to h] ar*itecture4 ,! f9e/ ( ! ,r5aissance ,ca!drals is t ( ,granada1 & ! mo/ obtrusive piece ( ,*urrigu]esque is ! ,c>tuja 9 ! same city4 ,tak+ ! ,ca!drals z a :ole ! two mo/ unfamili> & notable features are ! ,coros or ,*oirs1 & ! ,retablos4 ,^! latt]--gorge\s back+s to ! ,high ,alt>1 g5]ally ill-lit1 ) a sup]abundance ( c>v+ sometimes col\r$ & gild$1 sometimes ( pla9 /one--are ( ,l[-c\ntry or ,flemi% orig94 ,! =m]1 ) "o exception at ,ovi$o1 are plac$ 9 ! nave we/ ( ! cross+1 & enclose1 z a rule1 two or m bays 9 ?is direction4 ,e ,ca!dral is a museum ( art1 & ^! two features are ! mo/ wor? /udy4 ,,note4--,s9ce ! revolution 9 ,catalonia ( ,july-,augu/ #aiji1 ! ,k+ has decre$ t no "o c secure exemption f milit>y s]vice by ! paym5t ( a sum ( money4 ,,cont5ts ,,page ,,cadiz #a ,,seville #g ,,cordova #bc ,,granada #ca ,,malaga #eg ,,val5cia #fe ,,tortosa #gg ,,t>ragona #hc ,,b>celona #ia ,,g]ona #aja ,,tol$o #ajg ,,salamanca #aba ,,avila #acg ,,segovia #ade ,,s>agossa #aei ,,santiago #agd ,,tuy #ahc ,,or5se #ahg ,,a/orga #aic ,,zamora #aii ,,leon #bje ,,ovi$o #bag ,,valladolid #bbe ,,burgos #bcc ,,index #bdi ,,illu/rations ,to face page ,burgos4 ,! ,ca!dral ,frontispiece ,cadiz4 ,! ,ca!dral #b ,cadiz4 ,! ,m>ket ,place #d ,seville4 ,9 ! ,ca!dral #h ,seville4 ,! ,giralda ,t[] #ab ,seville4 ,9 ! ,alcz>1 ! ,patio de las ,doncellas #ad ,seville4 ,view ov] ! ,t[n #ah ,cordova4 ,int]ior ( ! ,mesquita #bd ,cordova4 ,! ,campan>io ,t[] #bf ,cordova4 ,! ,bridge #bh ,cordova4 ,f\nta9 9 ! ,c\rt ( ,oranges #cj ,granada4 ,c>r]a de ,d>ro #cb ,granada4 ,ext]ior ( ! ,ca!dral #ch ,granada4 ,! ,alhambra #df ,granada4 ,! ,alhambra1 ,c\rt ( ,lions #ej ,granada4 ,g5]alife #ed ,malaga4 ,view f ! ,h>b\r #eh ,malaga4 ,! ,m>ket #fb ,val5cia4 ,san ,pablo #ff ,val5cia4 ,door ( ! ,ca!dral #fh ,val5cia4 ,religi\s ,procession #gb ,tortosa #hj ,t>ragona #hd ,t>ragona4 ,! ,ar*bi%op's ,t[] #hf ,t>ragona4 ,! ,cloi/]s #hh ,b>celona4 ,! ,ca!dral #ib ,b>celona4 ,! ,rambla #if ,g]ona4 ,! ,cattle ,m>ket #ajb ,g]ona4 ,! ,ca!dral #ajd ,tol$o4 ,! ,ca!dral #ajh ,tol$o4 ,! ,s\? ,transept #aaj ,tol$o4 ,! ,zcodov] #aad ,tol$o4 ,! ,alcnt>a ,bridge #aaf ,salamanca #abb ,salamanca4 ,! ,old ,ca!dral #abd ,salamanca4 ,an ,old ,/reet #abh ,avila #ach ,avila4 ,pu]ta de ,san ,vic5te #adb ,segovia at ,sunset #adf ,segovia4 ,! ,aqu$uct #adh ,segovia4 ,plaza ,mayor #aeb ,s>agossa4 ,la ,seo #afj ,s>agossa4 ,9 ! ,old ,ca!dral #afd ,s>agossa4 ,ea/] ,procession #aff ,santiago4 ,! ,ca!dral #agb ,santiago4 ,s\? ,door ( ! ,ca!dral #agd ,santiago4 ,int]ior ( ! ,ca!dral #agh ,tuy #ahd ,or5se4 ,9 ! ,ca!dral #ahh ,a/orga #aid ,zamora4 ,! ,ca!dral #bjb ,leon4 ,! ,ca!dral #bjh ,leon4 ,! ,we/ ,por* ( ! ,ca!dral #baj ,leon4 ,san ,m>cos #bad ,ovi$o4 ,9 ! ,ca!dral #bah ,ovi$o4 ,! ,cloi/]s #bbb ,valladolid4,santa ,m>ia la ,antigua #bbf ,valladolid4,san ,pablo #bbh ,burgos4 ,! ,capilla ,mayor #bcf ,burgos4 ,ar* ( ,santa ,m>ia #bdb ,,cadiz ,at "o "t ! greate/ port 9 ! _w--,:]e are ?y glories n[1 oh1 ,cadiz8 ,%e is /ill a ,:ite ,city ly+ embosom$ on a sea ( em]ald & topaz4 ,h] /reets are /ill full ( ! col\r ( ! ,ea/1 b alas6 ,seville has robb$ h] ( h] trade1 & 9 ! hu/le ( mod]n life %e is too f> f ! busy c5tre1 too mu* on ! outskirts ( ev]y?+1 to be any?+ m ?an a port ( call = ,am]ican t\ri/s & a po9t f :5ce ! emigrant leaves 8 native c\ntry4 ,?is isolation is "o ( h] great *>ms1 & ! recollections ,i h c>ri$ away ( h] quiet clean /reets1 h] :ite or p9k wa%$ h\ses ) _! flat ro(s & miradores1 h] brilliant sun & blue sea1 c nev] be effac$ by ,"t's subtle h&4 ,l&+ f a coa/+-boat f ,gibralt>1 ,i began my travels ?r\gh ,spa9 at ,cadiz2 & x 0 ) int5se regret1 s pleasant 0 ! *ange f ! grey skies & cold w9ds ( ,engl&1 t ,i took my f9al /roll along ! broad ,alam$a bord]$ ) palms ( all sorts1 & l9$ ) o!r exotic gr[?--t ,i bid good-bye to ! ,p>que de ,g5oves :]e _m a pleasant h\r _h be5 sp5t 9 ! grateful %ade ( its trees4 ,i %all probably nev] aga9 lean idly ov] ! sea-wa%$ walls & wat* ! graceful b>ques ) _! c>goes ( salt1 spread _! sails to ! breeze & glide away on ! long voyage to ,s\? ,am]ica4 ,look+ out ea/w>ds ov] ! m>%es ,i 0 at fir/ mu* puzzl$ to "k :at 7 ! :ite pyramids t /ood 9 r[s l ! t5ts ( an invad+ ho/4 ,!n ,i 0 told4 ,%all[ pans are dug out 9 ! m>% & ! sea let 94 ,aft] evaporation ?is is repeat$ aga9 & aga91 until ! sal9e deposit is ?ick en\gh to be scrap$ & by degrees gr[s into a pyramid4 ,e pan is nam$ aft] a sa9t f :om good luck is implor$4 ,no1 ,i d\bt if ev] my eyes w w&] aga9 ov] ! blue wat]s to ! m>% l&s ( ,san ,f]n&o4 ,illu/ration3 ,,cadiz4 ,,! ,,ca!dral ,life is %ort & ,i c h>dly hope t ,fate w c>ry me back to ^? sea walls & once m p]mit me z ! sun goes d[n to speculate on ! cat* ( ! fi%+-fleet z ea* boat makes = its hav5 9 ! %ort twilight ( a s\!rn clime4 ,i _c b regret t all ?is is ( ! pa/1 b ,i %all nev] regret t at ,cadiz1 ! mo/ en*ant+ ( ,spa9's seaports1 began my acqua9tance ) h] _m glori\s cities4 ,9 anci5t times ,cadiz 0 ! *ief m>t = ! t9 ( ! ,cassit]ides & ! amb] ( ! ,baltic4 ,f\nd$ by ! ,tyrians z f> back z #aajj ,b4,c41 x 0 ! ,gadir 7=tress7 ( ! ,pho5icians4 ,lat] on ,hamilc> & ,hannibal equipp$ _! armies & built _! fleets "h4 ,! ,romans nam$ ! city ,gades1 & x became second only to ,padua & ,rome4 ,aft] ! discov]y ( ,am]ica1 ,cadiz became once m a busy port1 ! great silv] fleets dis*>g$ _! preci\s c>goes 9 its h>b\r & f ! e/u>y sail$ _m a man ^: desc5dants h creat$ ! great ,spa9 ov] ! wat]4 ,! loss ( ! ,spani% colonies ru9$ ,cadiz & x has nev] rega9$ ! place 9 ! _w x once held4 ,huge quays are ab\t to be con/ruct$ & ! pres5t ,k+ has j laid ! fir/ /one ( ^!1 9 ! hopes t trade may once m be br\ght to a city t sleeps4 ,!re are two ,ca!drals 9 ,cadiz4 ,! ,cat$ral ,nueva is a mod]n /ructure comm5c$ 9 #agbb & f9i%$ 9 #ahch by ! bi%op ^: /atue faces ! r impos+ we/ faade4 ,built ( lime/one & ,jrez s&/one1 x is :ite--dazzl+ :ite1 & ri* o*re br[n4 ,!re is v little ( int]e/ 9 ! int]ior4 ,! sill]ia del coro 7*oir /alls7 7 giv5 by ,que5 ,isabel1 & came orig9ally f a suppress$ ,c>?usian ,conv5t ne> ,seville4 ,! ext]ior c claim a c]ta9 gr&eur1 especially :5 se5 f ! sea4 ,! drum ( ! cimborio ) ! great yell[ dome above1 & ! t[]s ( ! we/ faade give x f a di/ance some:at ! appe>ance ( a mosque4 ,! ,cat$ral ,vieja1 built 9 ! ?irte5? c5tury1 0 orig9ally ,go?ic1 b be+ almo/ entirely de/roy$ dur+ ,"l ,essex's siege 9 #aeif1 0 rebuilt 9 its pres5t unpret5ti\s ,r5aissance =m4 ,cadiz possesses an ,acadmia de ,bellas ,artes :]e ,zurb>an1 ,murillo & ,alfonso ,cano are repres5t$ by second-rate pa9t+s4 ,to ! suppress$ conv5t ( ,san ,francisco is atta*$ ! melan*oly int]e/ ( ,murillo's fatal fall f ! scaffold+ :ile at "w on ! ,m>riage ( ,/4 ,ca!r9e4 ,! picture 0 f9i%$ by 8 apt pupil ,m5eses ,osorio4 ,ano!r "w by ! ma/]1 a ,san ,francisco1 q 9 8 be/ /yle also hangs "h4 ,illu/ration3 ,,cadiz4 ,,! ,,m>ket ,,place ,! *ur*es ( ,cadiz conta9 no?+ to attract "o1 inde$ if x 7 n = ! f9e sett+ ( ! city surr\nd$ by wat]1 & ! semi-ea/]n atmosph]e t p]vades ! place1 !re is b little to hold ! ord9>y t\ri/4 ,! ,m]cado1 or m>ket-place1 is a busy sc5e & full ( col\r2 ! ,fi% ,m>ket1 too1 ab\nds 9 v>ieties ( f9ny inhabitants ( ! deep & comp>es fav\rably 9 ?is respect ) t ( ,b]g5 9 f> away ,norway4 ,! sole attraction 9 ?is ,city ( ! ,pa/--9 fact1 ,i might say 9 ! ,pa/ ( ,spa9 z f> z x conc]ns ,cadiz--lies on ! /ret* ( wat] into :i* ! riv]s ,guadalete & ,san ,p$ro empty !mselves4 ,f ! v e>lie/ days d[n to ! "t :5 ,columbus sail$ on 8 voyage :i* alt]$ ! face ( ! !n kn[n globe1 & s on to our own day1 x is 9 ! ,bahia de ,cadiz t h] hi/ory has be5 writt54 ,,seville ,seville1 ! ,sephela ( ! ,pho5icians1 ,hispalis ( ! ,romans1 & ,i%bilyah ( ! ,moors1 is by f> ! l>ge/ & mo/ int]e/+ city ( ,s\!rn ,spa94 ,9 ,visigo?ic times ,seville 0 ! capital ( ! ,sil+i until ,leovigild mov$ 8 c\rt to ,tol$o4 ,x 0 captur$ by ,julius ,cs> 9 #de ,b4,c41 b dur+ ! ,roman occupation 0 ov]%ad[$ by ,italica1 ! bir?place ( ! ,emp]ors ,trajan1 ,adrian1 & ,!odosius1 & ! greate/ ( ,rome's cities 9 ,hispania4 ,?is once magnific5t place is n[ a desolate ru91 plund]$ ( its glories & ! haunt ( gipsies4 ,"u ! ,moors1 :o rul$ x = five hundr$ & ?irty-six ye>s1 ,seville 0 second only to ,cordova1 to :i* city x became subject :5 ,abdurrhaman e/abli%$ ! ,we/]n ,kalifate !re 9 ! ye> #gef4 ,san ,f]d9&1 ,k+ ( ,leon & ,ca/ile1 pu%$ 8 conque/s f> s\? & ,seville succumb$ to ! =ce ( 8 arms 9 #abdh4 ,seville is ! mo/ fasc9at+ city 9 ,spa94 ,x is /ill ,moori% 9 a way4 ,its h\ses are built on ! ,ea/]n plan ) patios1 _! ro(s are flat & _m h t *>m+ accessory1 ! miradore4 ,its /reets are n>r[ & w9d+1 pu%$ out f a common c5tre ) no p>ticul> plan4 ,x is ,&alusian & beh9d ! times4 ,triana1 ! gipsy suburb1 is full ( int]e/4 ,! ,ca!dral1 ?\gh ( late & !re=e n p>ticul>ly good ,go?ic1 is1 on acc\nt ( its great size1 ! mo/ impressive 9 ! :ole c\ntry4 ,! ,alcz>1 once m a royal resid5ce1 vies ) ,granada's ,alhambra 9 beauty2 & z a m]cantile port1 sixty miles f ! e/u>y1 ,seville ranks second to none 9 ,s\!rn ,spa94 ,! ,ca!dral /&s ?ird 9 po9t ( size if ! gr\nd space is alone consid]$1 aft] ,/4 ,pet]'s at ,rome & ! ,mesquita at ,cordova4 ,! proportions ( ! l(ty nave1 "o hundr$ feet 9 height1 are s good t x appe>s really mu* high]4 ,! columns ( ! d\ble aisles break up ! two hundr$ & sixty feet ( its wid? & add mu* to ! solemn dignity ( ! va/ int]ior1 enhanc$ greatly by ! height ( ! vault+ above ! spectator4 ,/&+ any:]e 9 ! ,ca!dral ,i felt t !re 0 a ro( above my head1 b x seem$ lo/ 9 space4 ,& ?is is ! great *>act]i/ic ( ,seville's ,ca!dral1 i4e41 space4 ,illu/ration3 ,,seville4 ,,9 ,,! ,,ca!dral ,! coro is rail$ (f f ! cross+ by a simple iron-gilt reja4 ,! sill]ia1 by ,san*ez1 ,danc>t1 & ,guilli] are v f9e & took sev5ty ye>s to execute4 ,betwe5 ! coro & ,capilla ,mayor1 9 ,holy ,week ! great bronze c&le/ick1 tw5ty-five feet high1 a f9e specim5 ( sixte5?-c5tury "w1 is plac$ alight4 ,:5 ! ,mis]e is *ant$ dur+ s]vice1 twelve ( its ?irte5 c&les are put out1 "o by "o1 indicat+ ! des]tion ( ,*ri/ by 8 apo/les4 ,! ?irte5? left burn+ symbolises ! ,virg91 fai?ful to ! end4 ,f ?is s+le light all ! o!r c&les 9 ! ,ca!dral are lit4 ,! reja ( ! ,capilla ,mayor is a gr& example ( an iron-gilt scre51 & ) ^? to ! nor? & s\?1 is due to ! tal5t ( ! ,dom9ican1 ,francisco de ,salamanca4 ,! f9e ,go?ic retablo ( ! ,high ,alt> surpasses all o!rs 9 ,spa9 9 size & elaboration ( detail4 ,x 0 design$ by ,danc>t & _m arti/s 7 employ$ 9 its execution4 ,:5 ! sun f9ds 8 way ?r\gh ! magnific5t col\r$ glass ( ! w9d[s betwe5 noon & ?ree o'clock1 & gl9ts across x1 few int]ior subjects surpass ! beautiful effect on ?is f9e piece ( "w4 ,9 front ( ! ,high ,alt> at ! fea/ ( ,corpus ,*ri/i & on ?ree o!r occasions1 ! ,seises's dance takes place4 ,?is /range c]emony is p]=m$ by *ori/] boys :o dance a sort ( m9uet ) ca/anets4 ,_! co/ume is ( ! "t ( ,philip ,,iii41 i4e41 #afcj1 & !y we> plum$ hats4 ,( ! num]\s *apels ! mo/ int]e/+ is ! ,capilla ,real4 ,x possesses a /aff ( cl]gy all to itself4 ,begun 9 #aead by ,m>t9 de ,ga9za1 x 0 f9i%$ fifty ye>s lat]4 ,ov] ! ,high ,alt> is ! almo/ life-size figure ( ! ,virg9 de los ,reyes1 giv5 by ,/4 ,l\is ( ,france to ,san ,f]d9&4 ,its hair is ( spun gold & its num]\s ve/m5ts are m>vell\s examples ( e>ly embroid]y4 ,! ?rone on :i* ! ,virg9 is seat$ is a ?irte5?-c5tury piece ( silv] "w1 ) ! arms ( ,ca/ile & ,leon1 ,san ,f]d9&'s two k+doms4 ,be=e x lies ! ,k+ himself 9 a silv] %r9e4 ,?ree times a ye>1 9 ,may1 ,augu/ & ,novemb]1 a great milit>y ,mass takes place be=e ?is royal %r9e1 :5 ! g>rison ( ,seville m>*es ?r\gh ! *apel & col\rs are l[]$ 9 front ( ! alt>4 ,9 ! vault b5ea? are ! c(f9s ( ,p$ro ! ,cruel & ,m>ia ,padilla 8 mi/ress1 ! only liv+ be+ :o 0 humanly treat$ by ?is sc\rge ( ,spa94 ,_! ?ree sons re/ close to !m4 ,on ! nor? & s\? sides ( ?is rem>kable *apel1 )9 ar*$ recesses1 are ! s>cophagi ( ,beatrice ( ,swabia & ,alfonso ! ,le>n$4 ,!y are cov]$ ) clo? ( gold emblazon$ ) coats-(-arms4 ,a cr[n & sceptre re/ on ! cu%ion :i* lies on ea* tomb4 ,9 ! dim light1 high above & beyond mortal rea* re/ ^! two--x is v impressive4 ,ea* ( ! rema9+ tw5ty-n9e *apels conta9s some?+ ( int]e/4 ,9 ! ,capilla de ,santiago is a beautiful pa9t$ w9d[ ( ! conv]sion ( ,/4 ,paul4 ,! retablo 9 ! ,capilla de ,san ,p$ro conta9s pictures by ,zurb>an4 ,9 ! nor? transept 9 a small *apel is a good ,virg9 & ,*ild by ,alonso ,cano2 9 ! s\? is ! ,alt> de la ,gamba1 ov] :i* hangs ! celebrat$ ,la ,g5]acion ( ,l\is de ,v>gas1 kn[n z ,la ,gamba f ! well-drawn leg ( ,adam4 ,on ! o!r side ( ?is transept is ! ,alt> de la ,santa ,cruz & betwe5 ^! two alt>s is ! monum5t to ,*ri/oph] ,columbus4 ,erect$ 9 ,havana x 0 br\ght to ,spa9 aft] ! late w> & put up "h4 ,murillo's "w out%9es all o!r's 9 ! ,ca!dral4 ,! gr& ,san ,antonio de ,padua1 9 ! second *apel we/ ( ! nor? aisle1 is difficult to see4 ,! w9d[ :i* lights x is cov]$ by a curta91 :i*1 h[ev]1 ! silv] key w pull aside4 ,ov] ! ,alt> ( ,nue/ra ,seora del ,consuelo is a beautiful ,gu>dian ,angel f ! same bru%4 ,close by is ano!r1 ,santa ,dorotea1 a v *oice little picture4 ,9 ! ,sacri/y are two m1 ,s4,s4 ,isidore & ,le&]4 ,9 ! ,sala ,capitul> a ,conception & a ,mat] ,dolorosa 9 ! small sacri/y atta*$ to ! ,capilla ,real complete ! li/4 ,besides ^! f9e pictures !re are o!rs :i* "o c include 9 ! same category by ,cano1 ,zurb>an1 ,morales1 ,v>gas1 ,p$ro ,campaa & ! ,flemi% pa9t] ,/urm1 a v]itable gall]y6 ,& :5 ,i w5t into ! ,treasury & saw ! priceless relics :i* belong to ,seville's ,ca!dral1 priceless 9 value & int]e/1 & priceless f my own art po9t ( view1 ,surely1 ?\ght ,i1 n only is x a picture gall]y1 x is a museum z well4 ,! orig9al mosque ( ,abu ,yusuf ,yakub 0 us$ z a ,ca!dral until #adja1 :5 x 0 pull$ d[n1 ! pres5t build+1 :i* took its place1 be+ f9i%$ 9 #aejf4 ,! dome ( ?is collaps$ five ye>s lat] & 0 re-erect$ by ,juan ,gil de ,hontaon4 ,e>?quake %ocks & j]ry-build+ 7 responsible = a second collapse 9 ! ,augu/ ( #ahhh4 ,! re/oration has s9ce be5 complet$ 9 a mo/ satisfactory mann]--let u hope x w la/4 ,illu/ration3 ,,seville4 ,,! ,,giralda ,,t[] ,! ext]ior ( ! ,ca!dral is a v irregul> mass ( t[]s1 domes1 p9nacles & fly+ buttresses1 :i* give no clue to ! almo/ ov]-p[]+ solemnity )9 ! walls4 ,?ree doorways occupy ! we/ faade1 :i* is ( mod]n con/ruction1 & !re are ?ree also on ! nor? side ( ! ,ca!dral1 "o ( :i* op5s into ! ,segr>io1 ano!r into ! ,patio de los ,n>anjos & ! ?ird into ! arcade ( ! same patio4 ,?is la/ reta9s ! horse-%oe ar* ( ! old mosque4 ,9 ! por* hangs ! /uff$ crocodile :i* 0 s5t by ! ,sultan ( ,egypt to ,alfonso el ,sabio ) a reque/ = ! h& ( 8 daught]4 ,on ! s\? is "o huge door seldom op5$4 ,on ! ea/ !re are two m1 t ( ,la ,pu]ta de los ,palos be+ "u ! %ad[ ( ! great ,giralda ,t[]4 ,?is magnific5t relic ( ! ,moslem's rule re>s its height f> above ev]y?+ else 9 ,seville4 ,erect$ at ! close ( ! twelf? c5tury by ord] ( ,abu ,yusuf ,yakub1 x belongs to ! second & be/ p]iod ( ,moori% ar*itecture4 ,on its summit at ! f\r corn]s re/$ f\r braz5 balls ( enorm\s size ov]?r[n by "o ( ! num]\s e>?quakes :i* h %ak5 ,seville 9 days gone by4 ,! belfry above ! ,moori% portion ( ! t[]1 :i* ends :]e ! solid walls /op1 0 put up 9 #aefh1 & has a second rectangul> /age ( small] dim5sions above4 ,bo? ^! are 9 keep+ ) ! ,moori% "w bel[ & 9 no way detract f its beauty4 ,on top ( ! small cupola :i* caps ! :ole is ! _w-fam$ figure ( ,fai?4 ,ca/ 9 bronze1 ) ! bann] ( ,con/ant9e spread out to ! w9ds ( heav51 ?is1 ! ,giraldilla1 or wea!r-cock1 moves to ! slighte/ breeze4 ,x is ?irte5 feet high1 & weighs "o & a qu>t] tons4 ,ov] ?ree hundr$ feet above ! gr\nd1 ! wond] is--h[ did x get !re8 & h[ has x pres]v$ its equipoise ^! la/ ?ree hundr$ ye>s8 ,x is difficult to f9d a po9t f :i* "o c see ! ,giralda ,t[]1 9 fact ! only /reet f :i* x is visible f base to summit is ! "o 9 :i* ,i made my sket*4 ,ev5 ?is view does n really convey its m>vell\s elegance & beauty4 ,next to ! ,ca!dral ! ,alcz> is ! mo/ fam\s build+ 9 ,seville4 ,x is n[ a royal resid5ce 9 ! e>ly "p ( ! ye>1 & :5 ! ,k+ & ,que5 are !re1 no /rang] "u any pretext :atev] is admitt$4 ,its c\rty>ds & g>d5s are its glory4 ,! sc5t ( orange blossom p]fumes ! air1 ! f\nta9s spla% & play1 all is /ill )9 ^! fasc9at+ c\rts save ! t9kle ( ! wat] & coo+ ( doves4 ,( its orange trees1 "o 0 po9t$ out to me :i* ,p$ro ! ,cruel plant$6 & _m o!rs are kn[n to be ov] two hundr$ ye>s old4 ,illu/ration3 ,,seville4 ,,9 ,,! ,,alc,,z>1 ,,! ,,patio ,,de ,,las ,,doncellas ,( all its c\rts1 ! ,patio de las ,doncellas is ! mo/ p]fect4 ,fifty-two m>ble columns support ! clos$ gall]y & rooms above1 & ! walls ( ! arcade are ri* ) glaz$ tiles4 ,( all its *amb]s1 ! ,hall ( ,ambassadors is ! f9e/ & is c]ta9ly ! ar*itectural gem ( ! ,alcz>4 ,its dome is a m>vel ( ,m$ia ,n>anja =m1 & ! frieze ( w9d[-%ap$ ni*es b adds to its beauty4 ,v little rema9s ( ! fir/ ,alcz>1 :i*1 by ! way1 is a d]ivation ( ,al-,kasr or h\se ( ,cs>1 & ! pres5t build+ z x n[ /&s 0 due to ,p$ro ! ,cruel1 ,h5ry ,,ii41 ,*>les ,v4 & ,philip ,v4 ,! fir/ nam$ employ$ ,moori% workm5 f ,granada1 :o emulat$1 "u 8 directions1 ! newly f9i%$ ,palace ( ! ,alhambra4 ,_m a trea*]\s de$ has tak5 place )9 ^! walls1 & none m loa?some ?an ^? cr$it$ to ,p$ro ! ,cruel4 ,h[ev]1 "o ?+ c be put to 8 cr$it & t is ?is fairy ,palace1 ?is fl[] f ! ,ea/1 by ! possession ( :i* ,seville is ! ga9]4 ,to ! ea/ ( ! ,alcz> is ! old ,jewi% qu>t]1 ! mo/ puzzl+ 9 plan1 if plan x has1 & ! olde/ "p ( ,seville4 ,! balconies ( ! h\ses opposite "o ano!r almo/ t\*2 !re c]ta9ly1 9 "s cases1 w\ld be no difficulty 9 gett+ across ! /reet by us+ !m z /eps1 & if a lad5 donkey essay$ ! passage bel[ ,i d\bt if he c\ld get ?r\gh4 ,pok+ ab\t 9 ^! n>r[ alley-ways "o day1 ,i fell into conv]sation ) a gu>dia municipal :o ent]ta9$ me greatly ) 8 own v]sion ( ,seville's hi/ory1 :i* end$1 z he melodramatically po9t$ d[n ! lane 9 :i* we 7 /&+--,& "h1 seor1 "o man ) a sword c\ld keep an army at bay1 &--?is 9 confid5ce1 :isp]$--,i %\ld n l to be ! fir/ man ( ! army6 ,9 almo/ e qu>t] ( ! city f9e old h\ses are to be f\nd amid/ mo/ squalid & dirty surr\nd+s4 ,y may w&] d[n "s mean calle1 :]e *ildr5 9 doz5s are play+ on ! unev5 pavem5t1 _! mo!rs sit ab\t 9 ! doorways %\t+ to "o ano!r across ! /reet4 ,sudd5ly a wall1 w9d[less save = a r[ ( small op5+s "u ! ro(1 is met4 ,a huge portal1 above :i* is a sculptur$ coat-(-arms1 ) "s old knight's helmet betok5+ a noble own]1 is let into ?is1 look inside1 z y pass by--beh9d ! iron grille is a delici\sly cool patio1 full ( palms & %rubs4 ,a ,moori% arcade runs r\nd support+ ! glaz$ gall]ies ( ! fir/ floor4 ,a man 9 liv]y sits 9 a rock+ *air dos+ ) ! et]nal cig>ette betwe5 8 lips4 ,beyond ! fir/ patio y c see ano!r1 a bigg] "o1 :i* ! sun is light+ up4 ,! life 9 ?is h\se is z diff]5t to ! life ( its next door neighb\rs z ,p>k ,lane is to ,%or$it*4 ,"o ( ^! great h\ses--own$ by ! ,duke ( ,m$9aceli--! ,casa del ,pilatos1 has a l>ge ,moori% c\rt1 v simil> to ^? ( ! ,alcz>4 ,!y w tell y 9 ,seville1 t ,pilate 0 a ,spani>d1 a lawy]1 & fail+ to w9 ! case = ,*ri/1 left ! ,holy ,l&1 :]e he _h a good practice1 & return$ to ,spa9 to assi/ ,f]d9& to drive out ! ,moors4 ,yes1 seor1 he settl$ "h & built ?is f9e h\se ab\t five hundr$ ye>s ago4 ,z a rule1 9 ! bett]-class h\ses a por* op5s into ! /reet4 ,on ! inn] side ( ?is !re is always a /rong iron gate ) a grille ar\nd to prev5t any entry4 ,^! gates s]v$ a purpose 9 ! days ( ! ,inquisition1 :5 none knew if ! ,holy ,(fice might n sudd5ly desc5d ^u & raid ! h\se4 ,seville suff]$ t]ribly f ! horrors ( ^? d>k times2 ev5 n[--:5 a r+ at ! bell calls =?3 ,:o is !re8 f ! s]vant 9 ! balcony above1 be=e %e pulls ! h&le :i* connects ) ! cat* t releases ! lock ( ! gate--! answ] (t5 is3 ,p ( ,peace4 ,"s h\ses h int]ior walls six feet ?ick & m1 :i* be+ holl[ conta9 hid+-places ) access f ! ro( by a rope4 ,9 ! heat ( summ]--& ,seville is call$ ! fry+-pan ( ,europe--:5 ! temp]ature 9 ! %ade ( ! /reets rises to ov] #aae ,fahr4 family life is sp5t bel[ 9 ! cool patio4 ,a real h\se mov+ takes place z ! heat comes on4 ,! upp] rooms1 :i* are always inhabit$ 9 ! w9t]1 ! kit*51 s]vants' rooms & all are des]t$1 e "o migrates ) ! furniture to ! l[] floors4 ,! upp] w9d[s are clos$1 %utt]s put up & a great awn+ drawn across ! top ( ! c\rty>d4 ,despite ! great heat1 summ] is a p]fectly heal?y p]iod4 ,no "o dreams ( go+ out 9 ! daytime1 & all ,seville beg9s life t[>ds five o'clock 9 ! aft]noon2 #b ,a4,m4 to #d ,a4,m4 be+ ! "t to retire = ! night6 ,seville c be v gay1 & ,sevillanos wor%ip ! ,torr]o or bull-fight] 7,toreador is a ^w unkn[n to ! ,spani>d74 ,if a fav\rite ,torr]o1 :o has done well 9 ! r+ dur+ ! aft]noon1 ent]s ! d9+-room ( a hotel or goes into a caf x is n unusual = e "o at table to rise & salute him4 ,illu/ration3 ,,seville4 ,,view ,,ov] ,,! ,,t[n ,!re is ano!r life 9 ,seville1 ! life ( ! ro(s4 ,9 e>ly spr+ be=e ! great heat comes1 & 9 autumn be=e ! cold w9ds arrive1 ! life ( ! ro(s fasc9at$ me4 ,up on ! ro(s 9 ! dry atmosph]e1 ,seville's wa%+ hangs out to air1 & up on ! ro(s1 9 ! w>m sun1 ) ! hum ( ! /reets f> bel[1 y w he> ! qua9t song--s ,arabian 9 "*--( ! lav&]a1 z %e pegs out ! damp l95 9 r[s4 ,9 ! ev5+ ! click-a-click-click ( ! ca/anets & ! s\nd ( ! guit>1 brok5 by m]ry laught]1 tells "o t p]haps ! ,sevillano has fa?om$ ! my/]y ( kn[+ h[ be/ to live4 ,& z sund[n approa*es :at lovely col\r effects creep o'er ?is city 9 ! air6 ,! light bel[ fades f h\setop & miradore1 p9nacle & dome1 until ! la/ rays ( ! dep>t+ maje/y t\* ! vane ( ! ,giralda1 t sup]b symbol ( ,fai?1--& all is /eely grey4 ,ov] ! ,guadalquiv] lies ,triana1 & z ,i cross$ ! bridge = ! fir/ "t ! rema9s ( an old t[] 7 po9t$ out to me on ! riv] bank4 ,! subt]ranean passage ?r\gh :i* ! victims ( ! ,inquisition f\nd _! exit to ano!r _w 9 ! d>k wat]s bel[ is expos$ to view1 ! walls hav+ fall5 away4 ,x 0 !re=e ) some?+ ak9 to relief ,i rea*$ ! gipsy qu>t] 9 ?is qua9t1 dirty suburb & fea/$ my eyes on ! col\rs worn by its d>k-sk9n$ p4 ,! pott]ies ( ,triana are _w-r5[n$1 & /ill be> traces 9 _! output ( ,moori% tradition & design4 ,seville's quays are ! busie/ "p ( ! city1 & ! con/ant dr$g+ ( ! riv] p]mits ( vessels ( f\r ?\s& tons mak+ ?is a port ( call4 ,next to ! ,prado 9 ,madrid1 ! ,museum ( ,seville is m full ( int]e/ ?an any o!r4 ,x is "h t ,murillo is se5 at 8 be/4 ,! build+ 0 at "o "t ! ,conv5to de la ,m]c$e f\nd$ by ,san ,f]d9&4 ,! exhibits 9 ! ar*ological portion ne>ly all come f t ru91 ! wond]ful city ( ,italica4 ,among ! be/ ( ,murillo's "w are ,/4 ,?omas de ,villa ,nueva ,di/ribut+ ,alms1 ,sa9t ,felix ( ,cantalicio & a ,sa9t ,an?ony ( ,padua4 ,a l>ge collection ( ,zurb>an's works also hangs 9 ! gall]y1 b 8 big composition ( ! ,apo!osis ( ,sa9t ,an?ony1 is n s good z 8 s+le-figure subjects1 & none ( ^! approa* 9 quality ! f9e ,monk 9 ! possession ( ! ,bankes family at ,k+/on ,lacy 9 ,dorset4 ,seville is ! home ( bull-fights4 ,! fir/ ev] record$ took place 9 #adje1 9 ! ,plaza del ,triunfo1 9 hon\r ( ! bir? ( a son to ,h5ry ,,ii4 ( ,ca/ile4 ,! _w ( ,fa%ion takes ! air e ev5+ 9 ! beautiful ,paseo de las ,delicias4 ,! humbl] memb]s ( society ?rong ! walks wat*+ _! weal?i] si/]s drive d[n its f9e av5ues--?is daily drive be+ ! only ex]cise ! ladies ( ,seville p]mit !mselves to take4 ,x is a pretty sight to wat* ! c>riages com+ home z twilight beg9s1 & ! la/ rays ( ! sun light up ! ,torre del ,oro4 ,built by ! ,almohades ?is ,moori% octagon /ood at ! riv] extremity ( ,moslem ,seville4 ,! gold5 yell[ ( ! /one no d\bt gave x ! "n ( ,borju-d-dahab1 ! t[] ( gold1 :i* has /uck to x "u ,*ri/ian rule4 ,b h[ are ! mighty fall51 & "o ( ! glories ( ! ,moor debas$4 ,x is n[ an (fice us$ by cl]ks ( ! ,port1 &1 in/ead ( ! dignifi$ tread ( ! s5t9el1 res\nds to ! scribble ( p5s4 ,,cordova ,x is h>d to realise t ! ,cordova ( to-day 01 "u ! rule ( ! ,moor1 a city fam\s all ! _w ov] & second only to ! great ,damascus4 ,long be=e ! ,moor's b5efic5t adv5t1 9 ! f>-(f days ( ,c>?age1 ,cordova 0 kn[n z ! gem ( ! s\?4 ,its position on ! mighty ,guadalquiv]1 back$ by m\nta9s on ! nor?1 always seems to h attract$ ! be/ ( ^? :o conqu]$4 ,9 ! "t ( ! ,romans1 ,m>cellus peopl$ x ) poor ,patricians f ,rome1 & ,cordova became ,colonia ,patricia1 ! capital ( ,hispania ,ult]ior4 ,b x 0 left to ! ,infidel to make x :at is n[ s difficult to realise--! fir/ city 9 ,we/]n ,europe4 ,! z5i? ( its fame 0 rea*$ dur+ ! t5? c5tury1 :5 ! mighty ,abd]rhaman ,,iii41 rul] ( ! ,omayyades reign$1 & did n beg9 to decrease until ! dea? ( ,almanzor at ! beg9n+ ( ! next c5tury4 ,if we are to believe ! hi/orian ,almakk>i1 ,cordova conta9$ at "o "t a million inhabitants1 = ^: wor%ip 7 provid$ ?ree hundr$ ,mosques1 & = ^: ablutions n9e hundr$ ba?s 7 no m ?an 0 necess>y4 7,! ar*-de/roy] ( all ?+s ,infidel1 ,philip ,,ii41 demoli%$ ^!47 ,x 0 ! c5tre ( art & lit]ature1 /ud5ts f all p>ts flock$ hi!r1 its weal? increas$ & its fame spread1 ri*es & _! concomitant luxury made x ! mo/ fam\s place 9 ,we/]n ,europe4 ,no?+ c\ld exce$ ! grace & elegance ( its life1 ! c\rtly mann]s ( its p1 nor ! magnific5ce ( its build+s4 ,f ! ye>s #gaa to #abie1 :5 ,f]d9& drove him out1 ! cultivat$ ,moslem reign$ 9 ?is 8 second ,mecca4 ,& n[8--"u ,*ri/ian rule x has dw9dl$ d[n to :at "o f9ds x to-day--a quiet1 p>tly ru9\s t[n4 ,( all its great build+s no?+ rema9s to rem9d "o ( ! pa/ b ! ru9s ( ! ,alcz>--n[ a prison1 a portion ( its walls1 & ! mu* mutilat$ ,mesquita--! ,ca!dral4 ,illu/ration3 ,,cordova4 ,,int]ior ,,( ,,! ,,mesquita ,i c\ld n at fir/ entry grasp ! size ( ?is ! second l>ge/ *ur* ( any 9 exi/5ce4 ,com+ sudd5ly into ! cool %ade ( its _m pill>$ av5ues1 ,i felt z if transplant$ into ! sil5t dep?s ( a great =e/4 ,9 e direction ,i look$ ! trunks ( huge trees app>5tly rose upw>ds 9 ord]$ array4 ,! light "h & !re filt]$ ?r\gh gaps on to ! r$-til$ floor1 :i* only made ! deception great] by its resemblance to ! ne$les ( a p9e-wood or ! dead leaves ( autumn4 ,!n ! organ boom$ out a note & ! deep bass ( a prie/ 9 ! coro %att]$ ! illusion4 ,! fir/ ,mosque built on ! site ( ,leovigild's ,visigo?ic ,ca!dral1 occupi$ "o-fif? ( ! pres5t ,mesquita4 ,x 0 ,ceca or ,h\se ( ,purification1 & a pilgrimage to x 0 equival5t to a visit to ,mecca4 ,x conta9$ t5 r[s ( columns1 & is t portion :i* occupies ! nor?-we/ corn] end+ at ! s\?-ea/ extremity :]e ! pres5t coro beg9s4 ,?is space soon became insuffici5t = ! population1 & ! ,mosque 0 ext5d$ z f> z ! pres5t ,capilla de ,nue/ra ,seora de ,villavicosia4 ,subsequ5t additions 7 made by diff]5t rul]s4 ,! ,caliph ,al-,hakim ,,ii41 :o foll[$ ,abd]rhaman ,,iii41 exp&$ its size by build+ s\?w>ds z f> z ! incl9ation ( ! slop+ gr\nd w\ld all[4 ,to him is due ! ?ird ,mihrb1 or ,holy ( ,holies1 ! pavem5t ( :i* is worn by ! knees ( ! dev\t :o w5t ?us r\nd ! ,mihrb sev5 times4 ,?is ,mihrb is ! mo/ beautiful *amb] ,i came across 9 all ,spa94 ,! ,byzant9e ,mosaics :i* adorn x are among ! mo/ sup]b t exi/1 ! dom$ ceil+ ( ! recess is hewn out ( a solid block ( m>ble1 & its walls1 :i* ,leo ! ,emp]or ( ,con/ant9ople s5t a ,greek arti/ & skill$ workm5 to put up1 are *isell$ 9 m>ble arabesques & m\ld$ 9 /ucco4 ,! entrance ar*way to ?is gem ( ! ,ea/1 an intricate & well-proportion$ feature1 re/s on two gre5 & two d>k col\r$ columns4 ,close by is ! private door ( ! ,sultan :i* l$ f ! ,alcz> to ! ,mesquita4 ,! la/ addition ( all ne>ly d\bl$ ! size ( ! ,mosque4 ,build+ to ! s\? 0 impracticable on acc\nt ( ! fall 9 ! l& t[>ds ! riv]4 ,ea/w>ds 0 ! only way out ( ! difficulty unless ! beautiful ,c\rt ( ! ,oranges 0 to be enclos$4 ,ea/w>ds1 !re=e1 did ,almanzor ext5d 8 build+1 & ! :ole space 9 ?is direction f ! transepts or ,cruc]o ( ! pres5t *ur*1 9 a l9e nor? & s\?1 0 due to 8 initiative4 ,illu/ration3 ,,cordova4 ,,! ,,campan>io ,,t[] ,! ,mesquita at "o "t conta9$ twelve hundr$ & n9ety columns4 ,sixty eight 7 remov$ to make room = ! ,coro1 ,cruc]o & ,capilla ,major1 :i* is ! portion res]v$ = s]vice n[4 ,9 ! coro1 ! extremely f9e sill]ia1 are "s ( ! be/ 9 ,spa94 ,! ,lect]n is v good ,flemi% "w 9 brass ( ! sixte5? c5tury4 ,! *oir books are beautifully illum9at$ missals1 especially ^? ( ! ,crucifixion & ! ,call+ ( ! ,apo/les4 ,all ?is does n1 h[ev]1 comp5sate = ! p>tial de/ruction ( ! ,mosque4 ,s ?\ght ! p ( ,cordova1 :o petition$ ,*>les ,v4 9 va9 aga9/ ! alt]ations :i* h de/roy$ ! h>mony ( ! wond]ful build+4 ,:5 pass+ ?r\gh ! city at a lat] date & view+ ! mis*ief t _h be5 done1 ! ,k+ rebuk$ ! *apt] ?us3 ,y h built "h :at y1 or any "o1 might h built any:]e else2 b y h de/roy$ :at 0 unique 9 ! _w4 ,eight hundr$ & fifty columns n[ rema9 out ( ! above numb]4 ,! odd f\r hundr$ & =ty occupi$ ! place :]e n[ /& ! r[s ( orange trees 9 ! c\rty>d1 "o "t cov]$ 91 :i* is kn[n z ! ,patio de los ,n>anjos1 or ,c\rt ( ! ,oranges4 ,! f\nta9 us$ = ! ablutions ( ! ,holy /ill runs ) a cry/al /ream ( pure wat]1 & is to-day ! meet+ place ( all ! gossips 9 ,cordova4 ,( ! five gates to ?is en*ant+ c\rt1 t ( ! ,pu]ta del ,p]don1 ov] :i* rises ! great ,t[]1 el ,campan>io1 is ! mo/ important4 ,x is only op5$ on /ate occasions4 ,erect$ 9 #acgg by ,h5ry ,,ii4 x is an imitation ( ,moori% design4 ,! imm5se doors are plat$ ) copp] arabesques4 ,! ext]ior ( ! ,mesquita is /ill ,moori% despite ! great *ur* :i* has be5 ?ru/ ?r\gh ! c5tre & rises high above ! flat ro( ( ! rema9d] ( ! ,mosque4 ,a massive t]rac$ wall ) flame-%ap$ battlem5ts encircles ! :ole1 ! view ( :i* f ! bridge ov] ! riv] is m ,ea/]n ?an any?+ else ,i saw 9 ,spa94 ,?is f9e bridge1 erect$ by ! ,infidel on ,roman f\ndations1 is approa*$ at ! city end by a ,doric gateway1 built by ,h]r]a 9 ! reign ( ,philip ,,ii41 t ,philip :o m>ri$ ,m>y ( ,engl&4 ,x consi/s ( sixte5 ar*es & is gu>d$ at its s\!rn extremity by ! ,calahorra or ,moori% ,t[]1 r\nd :i* ! road passes in/ead ( ?r\gh a gateway1 ?us giv+ additional security to ! def5ce4 ,! mills ( ! ,moslem's day /ill "w1 bo? above & bel[ bridge1 & ! pati5t angl] sits 9 ! sun ) 8 bamboo rod1 :ile ! :eels ( ^! relics groan & hum z !y did 9 days gone by4 ,m cunn+ is ,isaac ,walton's disciple :o fi%es f ! bridge itself4 ,a doz5 rods ) heavily weight$ l9es1 = ! ,guadalquiv] runs swift b5ea? ! ar*es1 & a small bell atta*$ to ! end ( ea* rod is 8 armam5t4 ,& :5 ! unw>y fi% impales himself on ! hook & ! bell gives w>n+ ( a bite1 ! excitem5t is great4 ,great] /ill :5 a peal beg9s z ?ree or f\r rods b5d6 ,illu/ration3 ,,cordova4 ,,! ,,bridge ,! begg>s ( ,cordova 7 ! mo/ importunate t fate s5t across my pa? 9 ! :ole ( ,spa94 ,i f\nd x impossible to sit 9 ! /reets :]e ,i w\ld gladly h plant$ my easel1 & x 0 only by /&+ ) my back to ! wall t ,i 0 able to make my sket* ( ! ,campan>io4 ,^! /reets are tortu\s & n>r[1 & ! h\ses1 built on ! ,moori% plan ) a beautiful patio inside1 are l[4 ,at _m a corn] ,i came across m>ble columns1 "s ) ,roman inscriptions1 probably f ,italica1 plac$ aga9/ ! h\se to prev5t undue we> & te>4 ,9 ! n>r[e/ ways ,i notic$ h[ ! load borne by ! pati5t ass _h scoop$ out a regul> track on ei!r wall ab\t ?ree or f\r feet f ! gr\nd4 ,:]ev] ,i w5t1 to ! olde/ qu>t]s ( ! t[n 9 ! s\?-ea/ corn] or ! mod]n 9 ! nor?-we/1 ,i c\ld nev] rid myself ( ! feel+ t ,cordova 0 a city ( ! pa/4 ,h] life is m ,ea/]n ?an t ( ,seville1 & h] p be> m traces ( ! ,moor4 ,decay & ru9 are app>5t at e turn1 b h[ picturesque x all is6--! rags1 ! squalor1 & ! ru94 ,h[ ,i ana!matis$ ^? begg>s ) no legs1 or m9us arms1 :5 ,i tri$ to beg9 a /reet sket*6 ,! pati5ce ( ,job w\ld n h help$ me1 x 0 ! loa?som5ess ( ^! cripples t drove me away4 ,begg+ is prohibit$ 9 ,seville & ,madrid & 9 "o or two o!r t[ns1 w\ld t x 7 s 9 ,cordova4 ,away up 9 ! s\!rn slopes ( ! ,si]ra de ,cordoba /&s ! ,conv5to de ,san ,j]nimo1 n[ a lunatic asylum4 ,built out ( ! ru9s ( ! once magnific5t ,m$nat-az-zahr1 ! ,palace t ,abd]rhaman ,,iii4 erect$1 its situation is p]fect4 ,9 ! old days ?is palace surpass$ all o!rs 9 ! wond]s ( its art & luxury4 ,! pl\gh /ill turns up ornam5ts ( r>e workman%ip1 b l s _m ?+s 9 ,spa9 its glories h dep>t$4 ,yes1 ,cordova has se5 its gr&e/ days1 ! bir?place ( ,s5eca1 ,lucan1 ,av]roes1 ,juan de ,m5a--! ,spani% ,*auc]--,morales1 & _m ano!r :o became fam\s1 c n[ boa/ at be/ ) reg>d to human celebrities z be+ ! ,gov]nm5t e/abli%m5t = break+ 9 horses = ! cavalry4 ,c]ta9ly ! m5 employ$ 9 ?is are f9e da%+ specim5s ( humanity1 & !y we> a v picturesque dress4 ,b ,cordova l h] _w-fam$ sons1 sleeps--& :o c say t x w\ld be bett] n[ if h] sleep 7 brok58 ,illu/ration3 ,,cordova4 ,,f\nta9 ,,9 ,,! ,,c\rt ,,( ,,oranges ,,granada ,spread out on ! edge ( a f]tile pla9 at ! base ( ! ,si]ra ,nevada1 ,granada basks 9 ! sun2 & ?\gh ! w9d bl[s cold ) an icy nip f ! sn[s ( ! highe/ peaks 9 ,spa91 ,i _c b ?9k t ?is1 ! la/ /ronghold ( ! ,moors1 is ! mo/ ideal situation ( any place ,i h be5 94 ,! city is divid$ into ?ree di/9ct di/ricts1 ea* ) its own peculi> *>act]i/ics4 ,! ,albaic91 ,antequ]uela1 & ,alhambra4 ,! fir/ nam$ cov]s ! l[ gr\nd & ! hills on ! bank ( ! ,d>ro1 a gold-be>+ /ream :i* ru%es bel[ ! ,alhambra hill on ! nor?4 ,! second occupies ! l[] portion ( ! city :i* slopes on to ! pla91 & ! ,alhambra rises above bo?1 a well-nigh demoli%$ citadel1 brood+ ov] pa/ glories ( ! civilis$ ,moor1 ! mo/ fasc9at+ spot 9 all ,spa94 ,! ,albaic9 di/rict is practically ! rebuilt ,moori% t[n1 :]e ! ari/ocrats ( ,seville & ,cordova settl$ :5 driv5 out ( ^? cities by ,/4 ,f]d9& 9 ! ?irte5? c5tury4 ,_m traces rema9 to rem9d "o ( _! occupation 9 ! tortu\s /reets :i* w9d up ! /eep hill sides1 & ! wall :i* !y built = great] security is /ill ! b\nd>y ( ! city on ! nor?4 ,! ,albaic9 is a gr& place to w&] 9 & lose oneself hunt+ = relics & little bits ( ar*itecture4 ,at e turn ( ! intricate maze ,i came across some?+ ( int]e/1 ei!r ,moori% or ,m$ival4 ,a mean look+ h\se ) a f9e coat-(-arms ov] ! door _h evid5tly be5 built by a knight ) ! collector's craze4 ,he _h specialis$ 9 mill/ones2 a r\nd doz5 or m 7 utilis$ 9 ! l[] portions ( ! wall & look$ /range ) /ones set 9 ! pla/] betwe5 !m4 ,a delici\s patio1 n[ giv5 ov] to pigs & f[ls1 ) a brok5-d[n f\nta9 9 ! c5tre ( its ru9$ arcad$ c\rt1 recall$ ! luxuries ( ! ,infidel4 ,! t]rac$ g>d5s /&+ beh9d & above _m a blank wall c>ri$ me back to ^? days ( old :5 ! opul5ce ( ! ,ea/ p]vad$ e dwell+ 9 ?is ,mayfair ( ,granada4 ,( all ^! ! ,casa del ,*apiz1 ?\gh degrad$ into a l[-class dwell+1 is ) its beautiful g>d5 ! mo/ p]fect remnant ( ! exotic ,moor4 ,illu/ration3 ,,granada4 ,,c>r]a ,,de ,,d>ro ,9 ! ,c>r]a de ,d>ro1 j opposite ! spot :]e once a h&some ,moori% ar* spann$ ! /ream1 /&s a h\se :]e9 is a ,moori% ba? surr\nd$ by horse%oe arcades4 ,! ba? is #ah ft4 squ>e1 & 9 ! vault$ recess beyond is "o ( small] dim5sions comm&+ m privacy = ! cleanly ,ea/]n ^: day 0 nev] complete )\t _m ablutions4 ,n f> away up ! hillside1 9 cave-dwell+s amid/ an almo/ imp5etrable ?icket ( prickly pe>s1 live ! gitanos4 ,i fe> !y n[ exi/ on ! *>ity ( ! t\ri/1 & make a peseta or two by =tune-tell+ or 9 ! ex]cise ( a m repreh5sible clev]ness1 a light-f+]$ dext]ity :i* is g5]ally only discov]$ by ^? :o mu/ g to ! gipsy qu>t] on _! return to ! hotel4 ,^! gipsies no long] w&] 9 ! summ] mon?s & lie up = ! w9t] z !y did ( yore4 ,!y are n ! ,romanies ( old times1 & a nomadic life holds no *>m = !m n[4 ,!y make en\gh out ( ! t\ri/ to eke out a lazy exi/5ce ?r\gh\t ! ye>1 & are fa/ los+ all ! "* ( a w&]+ tribe & ! lively spl5d\r ( _! race4 ,high] up1 ! banks ( ! ,d>ro are l9$ ) m cave-dwell+s1 a great _m ( :i*1 to judge by _! pres5t inaccessibility1 are und\bt$ly ( prehi/oric orig94 ,^? t ,i took to be ( lat] date h a sort ( level plat=m 9 front ( ! entrance1 f :i* ! approa* ( a /rang] c\ld be se5 & due w>n+ tak5 by ^? inside ( any ho/ile int5t4 ,! ,antequ]uela qu>t]1 call$ ?us f ! remnant ( ,moori% refugees :o driv5 f ,antequ]a f\nd "h a home1 ext5ds f ! base ( ,monte ,mauro to "s di/ance bel[ ! conflu5ce ( ! ,d>ro & ,g5il1 ,granada's o!r riv]4 ,x is ! mo/ mod]n qu>t] & busie/ "p ( ! city4 ,! life ( an ord9>y ,spani% t[n passes 9 front ( me z ,i sit 9 ! sun %>+ a seat ) an old man wrapp$ closely 9 a capa4 ,x is ,april4 ,we are 9 ! ,alam$a1 a broad prom5ade :i* leads to ! g>d5s ( ! ,paseo de ,saln & de la ,bomba4 ,on ei!r side are _m col\r$ h\ses ) gre5 %utt]s4 ,!y are v ,fr5*1 & to ?is day ,i try to recall ! t[n 9 ,france :]e ,i _h se5 !m be=e4 ,h[ (t5 ?is happ5s :5 we travel abroad6--a face1 a sc5t1 a s\nd4 ,memory racks ! tortu\s *annels ( half-=gott5 ?+s /or$ away some:]e 9 ! bra91 & = days ) an irritat+ re/lessness we w&] fruitlessly amid ! pa?s ( long ago4 ,i turn$ to my companion on ! seat1 he look$ *ill$ despite ! w>m? ( an ,april sun4 ,tell me1 sir1 to :om does all ! f9e c\ntry ( ! ,vega belong8 ,abs5t l&lords1 seor2 !y take _! r5ts & !y live 9 ,madrid1 & ! poor man has no "o to c>e = him4 ,b surely he begs & does n wi% to "w or to be c>$ =4 ,! begg>s 9 ,granada are m num]\s ?an 9 any place ,i "k4 ,t is true1 seor1 & ) a %ake he relaps$ into sil5ce1 draw+ 8 capa clos] ar\nd him4 ,! turn ! conv]sation _h tak5 0 n wor? pursu+4 ,new build+s are sup]s$+ ! old 9 ,antequ]uela1 & pov]ty & squalor pu%$ fur!r out ( ! sight ( ,el ,caball]o1 8 ,highness ! t\ri/4 /hetically we appreciate ! picturesque side ( pov]ty1 ! tumble-d[n h\ses1 ! rags1 ! graceful attitudes ( ! pati5t poor = ev] %ift+ 9 ! pat*es ( sunlight z ! great life-giv] moves r\nd4 ,d9n] w be ready = u at #g o'clock 9 ! hotel1 !re w\ld be no call to leave home if e t[n we came to 0 clean & its p prosp]\s4 ,b :at ab\t ,los ,pobres1 ! begg>s8 y ask4 ,are !y really des]v+ ( *>ity1 or only lazy sc\ndrels8 ,i _c answ] y4 ,i c only tell y t ,i h nev] se5 su* t]rible emaciat$ bundles ( rags z ^? ,i saw 9 ,granada4 ,9 ,seville1 ?\gh x is =bidd5 to beg1 x 0 ! "o-ey$ t pr$om9at$2 9 ,cordova he ( no legs1 :o hav+ m>k$ d[n 8 prey1 display$ great agility z he scuttl$ across ! /reet ) ! help ( little wood5 h&-re/s2 b "h n only 7 bo? comb9$1 b v>i\s horrors ( crippl$ & disfigur$ humanity ) op5 sores & loa?some disease ?ru/ !mselves be=e me :]ev] ,i w5t4 ,x 0 disgu/+--b oh6 h[ picturesque6 ,if only1 my good ,pobres1 y w\ld n come s close to me6 ,!y say ,spa9 is ! "o unspoilt c\ntry 9 ,europe4 ,p]sonally ,i ?9k %e is ! "o c\ntry t wants reg5]at+4 ,h] girls are wom5 at sixte51 old at ?irty1 & ag$ t5 ye>s lat]4 ,h] m5 take life z x comes ) v little initiative to bett] !mselves4 ,v few display any en]gy4 ,_! *ief ?\ghts are woman1 & h[ to pass ! day at ease4 ,luckily = ! c\ntry1 at ! age :5 good food & clean liv+ helps to make m51 h] y\? is invigorat$ by army s]vice4 ,true x is n popul>4 ,9 ! late w> !y di$ l flies ?r\gh fev] & ill-fe$+1 & _m 7 ! sad tales ,i he>d ( ,jos & ,p$ro return+ f ! front ) heal? ru9$ = life4 ,x 0 a sad bl[ to ,spa91 t w>4 ,h] navy demoli%$ & h] colonies lo/4 ,x may be ! reg5]ation ( ! nation1 h] well-wi%]s hope s1 b x is a difficult ?+ to *ange ! leop>d's spots4 ,! begg> be+ hungry begs1 & well-nigh />ves1 8 *ildr5 foll[ 8 example & probably 8 great gr&*ildr5 w be 9 ! same l9e ( bus9ess a hundr$ ye>s h5ce--,qui5 sabe8 :o kn[s8 ,i /ill sit 9 ! sun roll+ cig>ettes2 x is extraord9>y h[ soon ! cu/om becomes a habit1 & ?9k ( all ?is4 ,a /r+ ( donkeys passes ) baskets /uff$ tight ) half a doz5 l>ge long-funnell$ wat] cans4 ,!y h come 9 ) fre% dr9k+ wat] f ! spr+ up ! ,d>ro "u ! ,alhambra hill1 & a little lat] ! wat]-sell]s w be (f]+ glasses ( ! refre%+ly cool cont5ts ( _! cans4 ,granada is a city runn+ ) wat]1 b ! pollution f ! dra9s & ! nev]-end+ ranks ( wom5 on _! knees wr9s+ clo!s 9 its two /reams1 into :i*1 by ! way1 all dead refuse is ?r[n1 makes t :i* is fit to dr9k a pur*asable quantity only4 ,i wat* ! peasants f ! ,vega1 :o come 9 ) empty panni]s slung across _! donkeys1 scrap+ up ! dirt ( ! /reets :i* !y take away to f]tilise _! cottage g>d5s4 ,h]ds ( goats g by muzzl$ until milk+ is ov]4 ,!y make = t bit ( blank wall opposite1 & /& lick+ ! sal9e moi/ure :i* oozes f ! pla/] 9 ! %ade4 ,! goats ( ,granada are reckon$ ! f9e/ 9 ,spa91 &1 z is ! cu/om ?r\gh\t ,&alusia1 graze 9 ! e>ly spr+ on ! t5d] %oots ( ! "y corn4 ,?is n only keeps !m 9 food1 b improves ! quality ( t "p ( ! crop :i* rea*es maturity4 ,i c\ld sit all day "h if only ! sun /ood /ill4 ,my companion remov$ himself half an h\r ago & x is gett+ *illy 9 ! %ade1 s up & on to ! ,ca!dral4 ,:at a huge ,r5aissance pile x is4 ,built on ! ,go?ic plans ( ,diego de ,siloe x is und\bt$ly ! mo/ impos+ edifice ( ?is /yle 9 ,spa94 ,f]gusson consid]s its plan makes x "o ( ! f9e/ *ur*es 9 ,europe4 ,! we/]n faade 0 erect$ by ,alonso ,cano & ,jos ,granados1 & does n foll[ ,siloe's orig9al design4 ,! "n ( ! sculptor-pa9t] is writ 9 big lett]s ?r\gh\t ! build+4 ,to him are due ! colossal heads ( ,adam & ,eve1 let into recesses above ! ,high ,alt>1 & ! sev5 pictures ( ! ,annunciation1 ,conception1 ,pres5tation 9 ! ,temple1 ,visitation1 ,purification & ,assumption 9 ! ,capilla ,mayor4 ,! two v f9e colossal figures1 bronze gilt1 :i* /& above ! ov]-elaborat$ pulpits2 a c\ple ( beautiful m9iatures on copp] 9 ! ,capilla de la ,tr9idad2 a f9e ,*ri/ be>+ ! ,cross & a head ( ,s4 ,p$ro ov] ! alt> ( ,jesus ,naz>5o1 are also by ,cano4 ,_m o!r examples f 8 c>v+ tools & bru% are to be f\nd 9 ! ,ca!dral1 ( :i* he 0 made a ,racione or m9or ,canon1 aft] flee+ f ,valladolid :5 accus$ ( ! murd] ( 8 wife4 ,! little room he us$ z a work%op 9 ! ,great ,t[] may /ill be visit$ & 8 rema9s lie tranquilly b5ea? ! floor ( ! coro4 ,illu/ration3 ,,granada4 ,,ext]ior ,,( ,,! ,,ca!dral ,9 ! ,capilla de la ,antigua !re is t curi\s little image :i*1 f\nd 9 a cave1 s]v$ ,f]d9& z a battle bann]2 & also contempor>y 787 portraits ( ! ,k+ & 8 ,que54 ,to me ! ?+ ( surpass+ int]e/1 :i* ought to be ! mo/ rev]$ build+ 9 all ,spa91 0 ! ,capilla ,real & its cont5ts4 ,! reja1 :i* sep>ates ! *oir f ! re/ ( ! *apel1 is a magnific5t piece ( "w1 col\r$ & gild$1 by ,b>tolom4 ,z ! v]g] unlock$ ! great gate he drew my att5tion to ! box conta9+ ! lock ) its ?ree beautifully wr\ght little iron figures & intricate patt]n4 ,we pass$ 91 ! gate swung to ) a click1 ! lock 0 z good z if x _h b rec5tly be5 plac$ !re4 ,^! rejas ?r\gh\t ! c\ntry are all 9 spl5did condition4 ,a dry climate no d\bt pres]ves !m z x has pres]v$ ev]y?+ else1 & ,i v seldom detect$ ru/ on any iron "w4 ,! humidity ( ! w9t] atmosph]e is insuffici5t1 ,i suppose1 to set up mu* decay 9 metal1 & c]ta9ly ! only decay 9 ,spa9 is :]e inf]ior mat]ial has be5 us$ 9 con/ruction1 or ! neglig5ce ( man has left ?+s to rot4 ,) ! gate lock$ beh9d me ,i /ood 9 front ( ! two m>ble monum5ts1 ! "o ( ! recumb5t figures ( ,f]d9& & ,isabella1 ! o!r ( ,philip & ,juana la ,loca--crazy ,jane4 ,beyond rose ! /eps up to ! ,high ,alt>1 close at my side ^?--a %ort flight--t l$ to ! crypt :]e ! c(f9s ( ^! f\r re/4 ,i felt surr\nd$ by ! ,great ( ?is ,e>?1 & c]ta9ly a feel+ ( awe took hold ( me z _! de$s pass$ ?r\gh my m9d & ,i realis$ t "h lay ! rema9s ( ^? :o _h turn$ out ! ,moor1 bidd5 ,god-spe$ to ,columbus1 & in/itut$ ! ,inquisition4 ,!y are wond]ful tombs ^! two4 ,f]d9& we>s ! ord] ( ,/4 ,george1 ! ribbon ( ! ,g>t]1 ,isabella t ( ! ,cross ( ,santiago1 ,philip & 8 wife ! ,insignia ( ! ord] ( ! ,gold5 ,fleece4 ,f\r doctors ( ! *ur* occupy ! corn]s ( ! fir/ tomb1 ) ! twelve ,apo/les at ! sides4 ,! o!r has figures ( ,,ss4 ,mi*ael1 ,&rew1 & ,john ! ,bapti/1 & ! ,evangeli/4 ,bo? tombs are elaborately c>v$1 ! m$allions 9 alto-relievo be+ ( v delicate "w4 ,next to t magnific5t tomb 9 ! ,c>tuja de ,miraflores at ,burgos1 ^! are ! f9e/ monum5ts 9 all ,spa94 ,above ! ,high ,alt> is a florid ,retablo ) n mu* arti/ic m]it4 ,my int]e/ 0 entirely c5tr$ 9 ! two portrait figures ( ,f]d9& & ,isabella4 ,!y ea* kneel at a ,prie-,dieu fac+ "o ano!r on ei!r side ( ! alt>--! ,k+ to ! nor?1 ! ,que5 to ! s\?4 ,bel[ !m 9 d\ble sections are f\r wood5 panels 9 bas-relief1 to :i* ,i turn$ aft] a long exam9ation ( ^! au!ntic & contempor>y portraits4 ,^! panels are unsurpass$ z records ( ! co/ume ( ! day & a fai?ful repres5tation ( _! subject4 ,on ! left is ! m\rnful figure ( ,boabdil giv+ up ! key ( ! ,alhambra to ,c>d9al ,m5doza1 :o seat$ on 8 mule betwe5 ! ,k+ & ,que51 alone we>s gloves4 ,surr\nd+ !m are knights1 c\rti]s & ! victori\s soldi]y4 ,9 ! backgr\nd are ! t[]s ( ! ,alhambra4 ,to ! "r is se5 ! :olesale conv]sion by ,baptism ( ! ,infidel1 ! pr9cipal figures be+ monks :o are v busy ov] _! "w1 induc+ ! reluctant ,moor to ent] an ali5 ,fai?4 ,!re is some?+ v impressive ab\t ^! panels1 !y r5d] s well & 9 su* a nave mann] ! hi/ory !y record4 ,! surr5d] ( ! ,moor aft] #gej ye>s' rule1 ! end ( 8 dreams1 ! f9al triumph ( ! ,k+ & ,que51 :o devot$ ! fir/ portion ( _! reign to driv+ him out ( ! c\ntry1 & ! great *ur* receiv+ ! tok5 ( submission at ! end ( la/ act1 !y are all "h4--,! v]g] t\*$ my arm1 my rev]ie ( ^? /irr+ times 0 brok51 he _h o!r ?+s to %[ & noon 0 fa/ approa*+4 ,po9t+ to ?ree iron plates let into ! floor ( ! *apel1 he inquir$ if ,i w\ld l to see ! spot :]e re/ ! c(f9s ( ^! great mak]s ( hi/ory4 ,c]ta9ly2 ,i c\ld n leave ! ,ca!dral )\t a sil5t homage to ^? :o plac$ ,spa9 fir/ among ! nations4 ,he lift$ ! plates1 & light+ a small tap] :i* he ?ru/ into ! end ( a long pole1 disappe>$ d[n ! /eps1 ) a w>n+ to m9d my head = ! entry 0 v l[4 ,i foll[$1 /oop+4 ,at ! bottom ( ! /eps 0 a small op5+ heavily b>r$4 ,! v]g] pu%$ 8 light$ tap] & pole ?r\gh ! b>s1 & beckon$ to me to look4 ,i pe]$ into ! d>k *amb]1 !re re/+ on a m>ble slab 7 ! r\gh iron-b\nd c(f9s ( ! ,ca?olic ,k+s4 ,! tap] flick]$ & ca/ long %ad[s 9 ! gloom1 discov]+ ! c(f9s ( ,philip & ,juana4 ,x 0 all v e]ie1 a fitt+ climax 9 its simplicity to ! magnific5t monum5ts above & to ! hi/ory writ on ! walls ( ! ,capilla ,real4 ,i %all nev] =get x4 ,9 ! sacri/y ,i 0 %[n ! id5tical bann] :i* float$ f ! ,torre de la ,vela :5 ! ,alhambra _h surr5d]$4 ,isabella h]self _h work$ ?is = ! v object to :i* x 0 put4 ,next to x hangs ,f]d9&'s sword1 ) a rem>kably small h&le4 ,i _h ?\ght1 f ! kneel+ effigy 9 ! ,capilla ,real1 t bo? he & ,isabella mu/ h be5 small-made & ?is v]ifi$ my guess4 ,_m o!r p]sonal relics ( ! two 7 %[n me4 ,! ,que5's own missal1 a beautiful embroid]$ *asuble f h] indu/ri\s f+]s1 an exquisitely enamell$ viril1 c4 ,"t 0 %ort1 my v]g] want$ 8 d9n]1 & ,i _h se5 en\gh = "o morn+4 ,he let me out ?r\gh ! clos$ door into ! ,placeta de la ,lonja & 9 a sort ( dream ,i c>ri$ away all ,i _h se54 ,! next morn+ ,i return$ to ! ,placeta & /ood 9 ! doorway ( ! old ,royal ,palace1 n[ us$ z a drap]y w>eh\se1 & comm5c$ ! draw+ figur$ 9 ! illu/ration4 ,! ri* late ,go?ic ornam5t ( ! ext]ior ( ! ,capilla ,real is well balanc$ by ! ,lonja :i* backs on to ! sacri/y4 ,"h ,pradas's "w has be5 mu* mutilat$ & ! l[] /age ( ! arcad+ built up4 ,! twi/$ columns ( ! gall]y & its orig9al wood5 ro( rema9 to tell u :at ?is f9e faade once 04 ,!re is a great deal ( int]e/ 9 ?is huge ,ca!dral1 :i* to ! t\ri/ is q ov]%ad[$ by ! ,alhambra4 ,9 ! nor?-we/ corn] ( ! ,segr>io :i* adjo9s ! build+ on ! s\?1 is ! ,capilla de ,pulg>4 ,h]man ,p]ez del ,pulg> 0 a knight s]v+ "u ,f]d9&'s bann]4 ,fill$ ) holy zeal1 he ent]$ ,granada "o /ormy night 9 ,decemb] #adij by ! ,d>ro conduit1 & mak+ 8 way to ! ,mosque :i* !n /ood :]e ! ,segr>io n[ is1 p9n$ a scroll be>+ ! words ,ave ,m>ia to its pr9cipal door ) 8 dagg]4 ,?is d>+ de$ 0 n discov]$ until ! next morn+1 by :i* "t ! intrepid knight 0 safe back 9 camp4 ,8 c\rage 0 rew>d$ by a seat 9 ! coro ( ! ,ca!dral1 & at 8 dea? 8 body 0 int]r$ 9 ! *apel :i* be>s 8 "n4 ,ne>ly all ! *ur*es ( ,granada occupy ! sites ( ,mosques4 ,santa ,anna1 l ,san ,nicols1 has a mo/ beautiful wood5 ro(4 ,san ,juan de los ,reyes conta9s portraits ( ,f]d9& & ,isabella2 its t[] is ! m9>et ( :at 0 once a ,mosque4 ,! ,ca!dral itself is s cr[d$ 9 by o!r build+s1 t no compreh5sive view ( ! fabric is possible4 ,un=tunately ?is is ! case1 ) "o or two notable exceptions1 ?r\gh\t ! c\ntry4 ,its f9e proportions are ?us lo/1 & x is only ! int]ior ) its great l5g? & brea?1 its l(ty ar*es & f9e ,cor9?ian pila/]s t s]ve to dignify ?is ,h\se ( ,god4 ,tak+ a morn+ (f1 ,i walk$ out to ! ,c>tuja ,conv5t4 ,! ,gran ,capitan1 ,gonzalo de ,cordoba1 at "o "t grant$ an e/ate to ! ,c>?usians & on x !y erect$ ! conv5t to :i* ,i turn$ my /eps4 ,! ,ord] ab\t ?is "t 0 imm5sely weal?y & !y sp5t money ) reckless lavi%ness on ! int]ior ( _! *ur*4 ,"m-(-pe>l1 tortoise%ell1 ebony & c$>-wood ent]$ l>gely into _! decorations1 z well z ivory & silv]4 ,b p]haps ! m>bles 9 ! *ur* are ! mo/ rem>kable "p ( _! s*eme4 ,^! 7 *os5 = ! wond]ful patt]ns ( ! sections1 & ) a little /ret* ( ! imag9ation ,i c\ld trace well-compos$ l&scapes1 human & animal =ms 9 a great _m ( ! slabs4 ,! ov]done *irrugu]esque "w1 to :i* add ^! fanta/ic wall decorations1 makes ?is int]ior positively scream4 ,x is no?+ m nor less ?an a vulg> display ( weal?4 ,! cloi/]s ( ! conv5t also atte/ ! bad ta/e ( ! ,c>?usians1 !y conta9 a s]ies ( pictures :i* repres5t ! mo/ repugnant & blood?ir/y sc5es ( p]secutions & m>tyrdoms ( ! ,ord]4 ,9 ano!r conv5t1 ,san ,g]nimo1 0 buri$ ! ,gran ,capitan4 ,a slab m>ks ! spot1 b 8 poor bones 7 exhum$ & c>ri$ (f to ,madrid 9 #ahfh to =m ! nucleus ( a ,spani% ,pan!on4 ,ne$less to say1 l s _m o!r great ideas 9 ,spa91 no?+ fur!r 0 done1 & ,gonzalo's rema9s /ill await a la/ re/+-place4 ,"o m fact be=e ,i rea* ! ,alhambra4 ,9 ! *ur* ( ,san ,juan de ,dios y may see ! cage 9 :i* ! f\nd]1 ,juan de ,robles1 0 %ut up z a lunatic4 ,:at d y ?9k 8 lunacy 08 ,hav+ ! infirm & ! poor always be=e him1 ?is t5d]-he>t$ man w5t ab\t prea*+ ! necessity ( hospitals to alleviate _! di/ress4 ,aye1 he 0 a hundr$ ye>s & m be=e 8 "t1 s !y %ut him up 9 a cage & !re let him rot & die4 ,^? t came aft] 9 m enlight5$ days valu$ ! good man's crusade at its prop] price1 & he 0 ev5tually canonis$1 & 8 suppos$ rema9s n[ re/ 9 an urna4 ,up a toilsome approa*1 spla%+ ?r\gh ! mud1 ,i drove on ! night ,i rea*$ ,granada4 ,z ! horses sl[$ up1 ,i put my head out ( ! c>riage w9d[1 we 7 pass+ "u an ar*way & ,i knew t at la/ "o ( ! dreams ( my life 0 realis$4 ,i 0 9 ! ,alhambra4 ,i became consci\s ( r[s & r[s ( tall trees sway+ 9 ! w9d4 ,i smelt ! delici\s sc5t ( damp e>?1 & c\ld j di/+ui%1 z ! c>riage crawl$ up ! /eep asc5t1 9 ! lulls ( ! /orm1 ! s\nd ( runn+ wat]4 ,x 0 fairyl&1 x 0 peace4 ,aft] t long1 t$i\s j\rney & ! gl>e ( ! electric lit /reets ,i _h j pass$ ?r\gh1 ,i sank back on ! cu%ions & felt my rew>d _h come4 ,illu/ration3 ,,granada4 ,,! ,,alhambra ,h[ is x possible to describe ! ,alhambra8 ,x has be5 done s (t5 & s well4 ,e "o has read ,wa%+ton ,irv+1 & mo/ ( u "k ,victor ,hugo's eulogy4 ,i _h bett] beg9 at ! beg9n+1 :i* is ! gateway erect$ by ,*>les ,v4 "u :i* ,i pass$ ) su* a happy consci\sness4 ,fur!r up ! hill1 ?r\gh :i* only p$e/rians c g1 is ! ,gate ( ,judgm5t1 ! fir/ gateway into ! ,moori% =tress4 ,above x is ! ,torre de ,ju/icia erect$ by ,yusuf ,i4 9 #acdh4 ,on ! ext]nal key/one is cut a h&1 on ! inn] a key4 ,mu* controv]sy rages r\nd ^! two signs & ,i leave x to o!rs to f9d a solution4 ,9 old days ! ,kadi sat 9 ?is gateway disp5s+ ju/ice4 ,! massive doors /ill turn on _! v]tical pivots1 ! spe> re/s ( ! ,moori% gu>d are /ill atta*$ to ! wall1 & y mu/ ent]1 z ! ,moors did1 by ! ?ree turns 9 ! d>k passage beyond ! gate4 ,a n>r[ lane leads to ! ,plaza de las ,algibes1 "u ! level ( :i* are ! old ,moori% ci/]ns4 ,to ! "r is ! ,torre del ,v9o1 & on ! left ! ,acazaba4 ,come ) me up ! %ort flight ( /eps into ! little /rip ( g>d54 ,let u lean ov] ! wall & look out on to ! ,vega4 ,is !re any:]e s gr& & v>i$ an outl9e ( pla9 & m\nta98 ,d y wond] at ! te>s t suffus$ ! eyes ( ,boabdil z he turn$ = a la/ look at ?is incomp>able spot8 ,! br[n ro(s ( ,granada lie at our feet4 ,f> away ?r\gh ! levels ( ! gre5 pla91 ! ,vega1 ,i c see ! w9d+ ( _m silv] /reams4 ,beyond ^? rugg$ peaks to ! s\? lies ! ,alpuj>ras di/rict1 ! la/ abid+ place ( ! conqu]$ ,moor4 ,fur!r on ! mass ( ! ,si]ra ,aburij>a b\nds ! horizon1 we/ ( x is ! t[n ( ,loja1 ?irty miles away1 buri$ 9 ! dip t[>ds ,antequ]ra4 ,to ! nor? is ,m\nt ,p>ap&a1 ! b>omet] ( ! ,vega1 always cov]$ ) mi/ :5 ra9 is at h&4 ,ne>] 9 is ! ,si]ra de ,elvira1 spread out bel[ :i* are ! d>k woods ( ! ,duke ( ,well+ton's prop]ty--he is kn[n 9 ,spa9 z ,duque de ,ciudad ,rodriguez4 ,x is cle> en\gh = u to see ! blue haze ( ! m\nta9s r\nd ,ja51 & ! rocky defile ( ,mo*94 ,! ,torre de la ,vela %uts out ! re/ ( ! view4 ,!re is a bell hang+ 9 ?is t[] :i* c be he>d z f> away z ,loja4 ,n[ turn & look beh9d4 ,"r up into ! blue sky rise ! sn[ peaks ( ! ,si]ra ,nevada4 ,mulhac51 ! highe/ po9t 9 all ,spa91 is n visible1 b we c see ,veleta :i* is b a few feet l[]4 ,! :ole range gli/5s 9 ! aft]noon sun1 b x is ! ev5+ h\r t br+s su* wond]ful *anges ( col\r ov] ^! great sn[fields1 &1 aft] ! sun is d[n1 su* a pale "m-(-pe>l grey silh\ett$ aga9/ ! purple sky4 ,! entrance into :at we call ! ,alhambra is hidd5 away beh9d ! unf9i%$ ,palace ( ,*>les ,v4 ,! l[ door admits u directly 9 ! ,patio de los ,arrayanes1 or c\rt ( ! ,myrtles4 ,runn+ nor? & s\? x gets m sun ?an any o!r c\rt ( ! ,alhambra4 ,:at a revelation x is6 ,9 ! c5tre is an oblong tank full ( gold5 c>p4 ,! neatly kept myrtle h$ges encircle ?is1 reflect$ 9 ! cle> wat] !y add refre%+ *>m to a fir/ impression ( ! ,moori% ,palace4 ,on ! nor? rises ! ,torre de ,com>es1 ! approa* to :i* is ?r\gh a beautifully proportion$ *amb]1 ! ro( ( :i* 0 un=tunately de/roy$ by fire 9 #ahij4 ,! :ole ( ! gr\nd-floor ( ?is t[] is kn[n z ! ,hall ( ! ,ambassadors4 ,! mon>*'s ?rone occupi$ a space opposite ! entrance & x 0 "h t ! la/ meet+ to consid] ! surr5d] 0 held by ,boabdil4 ,! elaborate dom$ ro( ( ?is magnific5t *amb] is ( l>* wood1 b ! semi-d>kness prev5ts "o realis+ to ! full ext5t its beauties4 ,f ! w9d[s1 :i* almo/ =m small rooms1 s ?ick are ! walls ( ! ,t[] ( ,com>es1 f9e views ov] ! ro(s ( ! city & ! ,albaic9 hill are obta9$4 ,! ,c\rt ( ! ,lions1 s call$ f ! c5tral f\nta9 upheld by m>ble repres5tations ( ! k+ly bea/1 is surr\nd$ by a beautiful arcade4 ,at ei!r end ?is is ?r[n out1 =m+ a c\ple ( extremely elegant pavilions4 ,fairy columns support a massive ro(1 ! woodwork ( :i* is c>v$ ) ! pomegranate ( ,granada4 ,intricate fret-"w is arrang$ to break ! monotony ( /rong sunlight on a flat surface4 ,arabesques & inscriptions1 /amp$ ) an iron m\ld on ! wet clay1 repeat !mselves all r\nd ! frieze4 ,orange trees at "o "t adorn$ ! c\rt & ca/ graci\s %ade on its surface4 ,! f\nta9 ?rew up jets ( spla%+ wat]1 ! musical s\nd h>monis+ ) ! wond]ful arrangem5t ( light & %ade4 ,i tri$ to picture all ?is z ,i sat mak+ my sket*1 b ev5 9 ,april1 ?\gh hot 9 ! sun1 ,i requir$ an ov]coat 9 ! %ad[1 & ,i mu/ own t ! ev]-pres5t t\ri/ ) 8 kodak sadly di/urb$ all m5tal attempts at ! recon/ruction ( ,moori% life4 ,illu/ration3 ,,granada4 ,,! ,,alhambra1 ,,c\rt ,,( ,,lions ,on ! s\? side ( ! c\rt is ! hall ( ! ,ab5c]rages1 nam$ aft] t noble family4 ,! massive wood5 doors1 :i* %ut x (f f ! arcade1 are ( mo/ beautiful design4 ,! hall is rectangul> & has a f9e />-%ap$ /alactite dome4 ,! azulejos1 or tiles1 are ! olde/ t rema9 9 ! ,alhambra4 ,a passage leads to :at 0 once ! ,royal ,sepul*ral ,*amb]4 ,on ! ea/ side is ! s-call$ ,sala de la ,ju/icia divid$ into sev]al recesses & runn+ ! :ole l5g? ( ?is portion ( ! c\rt4 ,! c5tral recess 0 us$ by ,f]d9& & ,isabella :5 !y held ! fir/ ,mass aft] ! surr5d] ( ! ,moors4 ,! *ief int]e/ ( ! ,sala ,i f\nd to be 9 a /udy ( ! pa9t+s on ! semicircul> dom$ ro(s4 ,!y portray ! ,moor ( ! p]iod4 ,! middle "o1 t 9 ! *apel-recess1 no d\bt conta9s portraits ( ,granada's rul]s 9 c\ncil4 ,! o!r two repres5t hunt+ sc5es & de$s ( *ivalry4 ,x is suppos$ t ! ,koran =bids ! del9eation ( any liv+ ?+4 ,! ,moor got ov] ?is difficulty by portray+ animal life 9 z grotesque a mann] z possible1 or by employ+ =eign captives to d ?is = him4 ,"o !ory ( ! orig9 ( ! ,lion ,f\nta9 is t a captive ,*ri/ian c>v$ ! lions & gave 8 be/--or 8 wor/--z ! price ( 8 lib]ation4 ,p]sonally ,i ?9k !y are ( ,pho5ician orig94 ,animals & birds 9 decoration rea*$ ! ,moor f ,p]sia1 :]e f unkn[n ages !y _h always be5 employ$ 9 ?is way2 & ! ,msil /yle ( hamm]$ metal "w is replete ) ?is feature4 ,on ! nor? side ( ! c\rt lies ! ,room ( ! ,two ,si/]s1 ) o!rs op5+ out f x1 :i* seems to po9t to ! probability t ?is 0 ! suite occupi$ by ! ,sultana h]self4 ,moori% art has "h rea*$ its highe/ phase4 ,! honeycomb ro( conta9s ne>ly five ?\s& cells1 all are diff]5t1 yet all comb9e to =m a m>vell\sly symmetrical :ole4 ,fancy ran free ) ! ar*itect :o pil$ "o t9y cell ^u ano!r & on ^! support$ a ?ird4 ,p5dant pyramids clu/] ev]y:]e & hang susp5d$ app>5tly f no?+4 ,9 ! f]tility ( 8 imag9ation ! design] surpass$ any?+ ( ! k9d t w5t be=e or has s9ce be5 attempt$4 ,truly ! v]ses ( a poem copi$ on to ! azulejos are well set4 ,look well at my elegance1 & reap ! b5efit ( a comm5t>y on decoration4 ,"h are columns ornam5t$ ) e p]fection1 ! beauty ( :i* has become prov]bial4 ,beyond ?is entranc+ suite ( rooms is ! ,miradoro de ,d>axa ) ?ree tall w9d[s ov]look+ t little gem ( a g>d5 ! ,patio de ,d>axa4 ,x 0 "h t ,wa%+ton ,irv+ lodg$ :5 dream+ away ^? delici\s days 9 ! ,alhambra4 ,! old ,c\ncil ,*amb] ( ! ,moors1 ! ,me%wr1 is rea*$ ?r\gh ! ,patio de ,mexu>4 ,*>les ,v4 turn$ ?is *amb] into a *apel1 & ! hide\s decorations he put up are /ill extant4 ,an und]gr\nd passage1 :i* leads to ! ba?s1 ran f ! patio & gave access to ! battlem5ts & gall]ies ( ! =tress z well z =m+ a connect+ l9k betwe5 ea* t[]4 ,! ba?s are mo/ int]e/+1 b to me 7 p]vad$ by a deadly *ill4 ,i felt sorry = ! gu>dian :o sp5ds 8 days d[n 9 su* damp1 icy qu>t]s4 ,a rem>k ,i made to him inquir+ h[ long 8 duty kept him 9 s cold a spot1 call$ =? s t]rible a fit ( c\gh+ t ,i got no reply4 ,i 0 told aft]w>ds t he 0 only plac$ !re z he 0 too ill = o!r duty1 & x 0 expect$ he w\ld n live mu* long]6 ,!re are two ba?s ( full size & "o = *ildr54 ,! azulejos 9 !m are v beautiful1 z !y also are 9 ! disrob+ room & *amb] = re/4 ,an op5 corridor leads f ! ,hall ( ! ,ambassadors to ! ,torre del ,pe9ador :i* ,yusuf ,i4 built4 ,! small ,tocador de la ,re9a1 or ,que5's dress+-room1 ) its qua9t frescoes1 0 mod]nis$ by ,*>les ,v4 ,let into ! floor is a m>ble slab drill$ ) holes1 ?r\gh :i* p]fumes f\nd _! way f a room bel[ :ile ! ,que5 0 dress+4 ,! glam\r ( ! ,ea/ cl+s to e corn] ( ! ,alhambra1 & ! wond] ( x all increas$ z ,i began to gr[ famili> ) its c\rty>ds & halls1 ! sl5d] columns ( its arcades1 ) _! trac]y & (t-repeat$ v]ses =m+ ornam5t & decoration1 & ! well ?\ght-out balance ( light & %ade4 ,:at mu/ x all h be5 l :5 ! s$ate ,moor glid$ noiselessly ?r\gh ! cool corridors1 or ! clang ( arms res\nd$ ?r\gh ! n[ sil5t halls6 ,x is difficult to imag9e4 ,! inn] *amb]s 7 !n l9$ ) mat*less c>pets & rugs & ! walls 7 cov]$ ) subtly col\r$ azulejos4 ,_m are ! *anges s9ce ^? days ( ! ,infidel :o cultivat$ ! art ( liv+ z x has nev] be5 cultivat$ s9ce4 ,re/oration is judici\sly b sl[ly go+ on1 & e c\rtesy is %[n to ! visitor4 ,a small *>ge might be levi$1 h[ev]1 to assi/ ! ,gov]nm5t1 ev5 9 a slight degree1 ) re/oration1 & ,i am sure no "o w\ld grudge pay+ = ! privilege ( saunt]+ ?r\gh ! mo/ int]e/+ rema9s ( ! ,moori% days ( ,spa94 ,! unf9i%$ ,palace ( ,*>les ,v4 occupies a l>ge space1 to cle> :i* a great deal ( ! ,moori% ,palace 0 demoli%$4 ,! int]ior is extremely graceful4 ,! d\ble arcades1 ! l[] ( :i* is ,doric & ! upp] ,ionic1 run r\nd a circul> c\rt :i* = good proportion x w\ld be h>d to beat4 ,illu/ration3 ,,granada4 ,,g5]alife ,on ! ,corre de ,sol1 a little way out ( ! ,alhambra & situat$ above x1 is ! ,g5]alife4 ,x belongs to ! ,pallavic9i family ( ,g5oa1 b on ! dea? ( ! pres5t repres5tative becomes ! prop]ty ( ! ,spani% ,gov]nm5t4 ,a /ately cypress av5ue leads to ! entrance doorway1 ?r\gh :i* "o ent]s an oblong c\rt full ( exotic gr[? & ev5 9 ,april a blaze ( col\r4 ,?r\gh a tank d[n ! c5tre runs a delici\s /ream ( cle> wat]4 ,at ! fur!r end ( ?is captivat+ c\rt are a s]ies ( rooms1 "o ( :i* conta9s badly pa9t$ portraits ( ! ,spani% ,sov]eigns s9ce ! days ( ,f]d9& & ,isabella4 ,up "s /eps is ano!r g>d5 c\rt ) ano!r tank1 %ad$ by m cypress trees4 ,"o huge patri>* is ov] six hundr$ ye>s old1 & x is suppos$ t "u x ,boabdil's wife cl&e/9ely met ,hamet ! ,ab5c]rage4 ,space w n p]mit me to tell ( ! _m entranc+ excursions ,i made to ! foot-hills ( ! ,si]ra ,nevada & up ! two riv]s4 ,i c only add t ! valleys disclos$ to ! p$e/rian are a weal? ( r>e botanical specim5s1 & if "t p]mits w well repay a l5g!n$ soj\rn 9 ! la/ /ronghold ( ! ,moors 9 ,spa94 ,,malaga ,malaga disputes ) ,cadiz ! hon\r ( be+ ! olde/ seaport 9 ! c\ntry4 ,9 e>ly days ! ,pho5icians _h a settlem5t "h1 & 9 aft] times bo? ! ,c>?ag5ians & ,romans utilis$ ,malacca z _! pr9cipal port on ! ,m$it]ranean littoral ( ,spa94 ,9 #ega ! ,go?s "u _! r$\btable ,k+1 ,leovigild1 wre/$ ! t[n f ! ,byzant9es4 ,once m x 0 captur$1 by ,t>ik1 9 ! ye> #gaj & rema9$ a ,moori% /ronghold until ,f]d9& took x aft] a long siege 9 #adhg4 ,x is said t gunp[d] 0 fir/ us$ 9 ,spa9 at ?is siege1 :5 ! sev5 si/]s ( ,xim5es1 guns plant$ 9 ! ,gibralf>o1 bel*$ =? fire & smoke4 ,9 ! ye> #gji ! ,b]b] ,t>if ent]$ into an alliance ) ,julian1 ,gov]nor ( ,ceuta1 :o held t place = ,witiza ! ,go?ic ,k+ ( ,spa94 ,) f\r %ips & five hundr$ m5 he cross$ ! n>r[ & dang]\s /raits to reconnoitre ! ,european coa/1 hav+ secretly 9 view an indep5d5t k+dom = himself on ! ,ib]ian p59sula4 ,he l&$ at ,cape ,t>ifa4 ,?is exp$ition 0 s f> successful t 9 two ye>s' "t ano!r ,b]b]1 ( a "n almo/ simil>1 ,t>k to wit1 0 s5t ov] ) twelve ?\s& m5 & l&$ ne> ! rock :i* receiv$ ! "n ( ,jabal-,t>k1 or m\nta9 ( ,t>k1 ! pres5t ,gibralt>4 ,witiza 9 ! meantime di$ & 0 succe$$ by ,rod]ic1 :o1 he>+ ( ! invasion ( ?is ,moori% ho/1 ha/5$ s\? f ,tol$o & met 8 dea? 9 ! fir/ decisive battle betwe5 ,*ri/ian & ,infidel on ! banks ( ! ,guadalete ne> ,cadiz4 ,t>k !n comm5c$ 8 victori\s m>*1 :i* end$ 9 less ?an ?ree ye>s ) ! subjugation ( ! :ole c\ntry z f> z ! foot ( ! ,pyr5ees--,pelayo1 9 8 cave at ,covadonga ne> ,ovi$o1 alone hold+ out ) a m]e remnant aga9/ ! all-conqu]+ ,moor4 ,illu/ration3 ,,malaga4 ,,view ,,f ,,! ,,h>b\r ,if y ask me1 ,:at is ,malaga to-day8 ,i c reply ) tru?1 ,! noisie/ t[n 9 ,spa94 ,l all places 9 ! s\? x is a babel ( /reet-cries1 only a little m s ?an any ( ! o!rs4 ,! s]anos1 or night-wat*m51 di/urb "o's re/ z !y call out ! h\r ( ! night1 or :i/le at ! /reet corn]s to _! comrades4 ,a breeze makes hide\s ! h\rs ( d>kness by ! bang+ to & fro ( unsecur$ %utt]s4 ,! e>ly arrival ( h]ds ( goats ) t9kl+ bells h]alds ! dawn1 :i* is soon foll[$ by ! discordant clatt] ( all ^?1 crack$ & o!rwise1 :i* hang 9 ! *ur* belfries4 ,! noisie/ t[n ,i visit$1 mo/ c]ta9ly1 b = all t a v en*ant+ place4 ,9 a way n unlike ,naples1 = ! ,malagu5o is ! ,spani% prototype ( ! ,neapolitan4 ,lazy1 ligh!>t$1 good-natur$1 b quick to take affront1 he gets ?r\gh ! day do+ no?+ 9 a mann] t won my s9c]e admiration4 ,:y "w1 seor1 :5 y h ! sun8 ,i d n "k :y ! ,engli% travell]s are always 9 su* a hurry4 ,& ! ,nor? ,am]ican1 he is f> worse4 ,i e>n$ two pesetas ye/]day4 ,to-day ,i h no wants1 ,i d n "w4 ,to-morr[8 ,yes1 p]haps to-morr[ ,i "w1 b to-day ,i sit "h 9 ! sun1 ,i smoke my cig>ette1 ,i am cont5t to wat* o!rs1 t is life6--& :o c say t ! ,malagu5o is f> wrong8 ,n ,i4 ,malaga's ,ca!dral1 an impos+ build+ ( a v mix$ ,cor9?ian "*1 occupies ! site ( a ,moori% mosque :i* 0 conv]t$ into a *ur*4 ,( ?is e>ly *ur* ( ! ,inc>nation1 ! ,go?ic portal ( ! ,segragrio is ! only portion rema9+4 ,! pres5t edifice 0 begun 9 #aech f ! plans ( t great ar*itect ,diego de ,siloe1 b be+ p>tially de/roy$ by an e>?quake 9 #afhj1 0 n complet$ until #agai4 ,x _c be call$ complete ev5 n[1 & ! long p]iod ov] :i* its con/ruction has be5 spread acc\nts = ! v _m inconsi/5cies 9 a build+ :i* is full ( ar*itectural defects4 ,! we/ faade is flank$ by two ,t[]s1 only "o ( :i* has be5 f9i%$2 ?is is drawn out 9 ?ree /ages l ! t[] ( ,la ,seo at ,s>agossa1 & has a dome ) lant]n above4 ,! doors ( ! nor? & s\? ,transepts are also flank$ by t[]s1 b !y d n rise beyond ! cornice l9e4 ,! int]ior1 rem9d+ "o ( ,granada's ,ca!dral1 is seem+ly imm5se4 ,! proportions are massive & decid$ly good4 ,x 0 9 8 proportions t ,siloe excell$4 ,! l5g? ( ?is is ?ree hundr$ & sev5ty-five feet1 ! wid? two hundr$ & =ty1 & ! height "o hundr$ & ?irty feet4 ,! columns :i* support ! heavy ro( consi/ ( two r[s ( pill>s "o above ! o!r4 ,! vault+ is ( r\nd ar*es4 ,a picture by ,alonso ,cano 9 ! *apel ( ,our ,lady ( ! ,ros>y1 & "o ( a ,virg9 & ,*ild1 9 t ( ,san ,francisco1 by ,morales1 7 ! only two objects t ,i c\ld say int]e/$ me1 besides ! magnific5tly c>v$ sill]ia del coro1 ! "w ( _m h&s1 b *iefly ^? ( ,p$ro de ,m5a1 a pupil ( ,cano4 ,) all its ar*itectural incongruities x is an impressive fabric1 & rises high above ! surr\nd+ ro(s1 l a great ,l9] ) a cr[d ( small] boats ly+ ar\nd h]4 ,s x /ruck me z ,i sat on ! quayside ( ! ,malagueta mak+ my sket*1 sadly int]f]$ ) by an unpleasant ?rong ( idl+ loaf]s4 ,beyond ,malagueta lies ,caleta1 & on ! hill above !m is ! ,ca/illa de ,gibralf>o1 f :i* :5 ! sky is cle> ! ,african m\nta9s ne> ,ceuta c be se54 ,bel[ ! ,gibralf>o & betwe5 x & ! ,ca!dral1 lies ! mo/ anci5t "p ( ! city1 ! ,alcazba1 ! glori\s ca/le & t[n ( ,moori% days4 ,& n[8--l s _m ( ,spa9's dep>t$ glories1 x is n mu* m ?an a ru9$ conglom]ation ( huts & h\ses ( a l[ & v insanit>y ord]4 ,at ! o!r end ( ,malaga is ! ,m]cado1 & close by is ! old ,moori% sea gateway1 ! ,pu]ta del ,m>1 wa%$ by ! wat]s ( ! blue ,m$it]ranean 9 _! day1 b at ! pres5t "t well away f ! sea & surr\nd$ by h\ses4 ,! ev]yday m>ket is held 9 ! dry b$ ( ! trea*]\s ,guadelm$9a1 a /ream :i* rose 9 ! fatal ,octob] ( #aijg & swept away all ! bridges1 swamp+ ! l[] qu>t]s ( ! city4 ,_m lives 7 lo/ 9 ?is disa/r\s flood & _m bodies pick$ up by fi%+-boats f> out at sea4 ,h[ev]1 :5 ,i made my sket* !re 0 no *ance ( su* a visitation1 & ,i f\nd ! m>ket folk m polite ?an ! loaf]s on ! quay4 ,! c\ntry ly+ at ! back ( ! city & at ! base ( ! sun-bak$ & sc>r$ m\nta9s by :i* x is surr\nd$1 produces almo/ ev]y?+ t gr[s4 ,f ?is--! ,vega--come grapes1 rais9s1 figs1 oranges1 lemons1 wat] & sweet melons1 qu9ces1 pomegranates1 m$l>s1 planta9s1 cu/>d-apples1 guava1 olives & sug>-cane--a v]itable p>adise = ! fruit gr[]4 ,up ! hill slopes1 :]e ! olive luxuriates1 f9e woods ( sweet acorn & cork trees are pass$1 & any day y may see l>ge h]ds ( sw9e fe$+ on ! acorns t h fall51 & r\t+ out o!r delicacies t _! s5sitive noses tell !m lie hidd5 b5ea? ! surface4 ,! pork ( ,e/remadura is reckon$ ! be/ 9 ,spa91 & t f ^! oak woods a good second4 ,! pig 9 ,spa9 is a clean fe$]1 & y c eat him ) p]fect safety any:]e4 ,su* a ?+ z ! (f5sive pig-/y1 ! disgrace ( rural ,engl&1 is absolutely unkn[n "h4 ,illu/ration3 ,,malaga4 ,,! ,,m>ket ,malaga's climate is delightful1 despite ! fi]ce w9ds & ! du/ !y raise4 ,?\gh ra9 seldom falls ! cool sea breezes 9 summ] br+ a refre%+ tonic to ! dwell] up c\ntry2 & _m ,spani>ds at ?is season come "h = ba?+1 & obta9 a maximum ( sun%9e )\t ! int5se heat ( ! int]ior4 ,,val5cia ,val5cia del ,cid is insep>ably connect$ ) ! h]o ( ,spani% romance1 ,rodrigo ,diaz ( ,biv>1 to give him 8 real "n1 ,cid be+ a corruption ( ! ,moori% ,seyyid1 & fir/ appe>+ 9 hi/orical docum5ts ( ! ye> #ajfd4 ,ris+ to great p[]1 ,alfonso ( ,leon appo9t$ him to ! comm& ( 8 army1 b ?r\gh jeal\sy bani%$ him 9 #ajha4 ,f t date ! ,cid became a true knight-errant4 ,b>r$ f ! k+dom ( ,leon1 he 0 ev] ready to sell 8 s]vices to ! highe/ bidd]2 & aft] _m w&]+s f\nd himself ) a goodly foll[+ ( knights1 only too eag] 9 ^? days1 :5 might 0 "r1 to be 9 ! tra9 ( s r$\btable a *ampion1 en r\te to ,s>agossa4 ,! ,moori% rul] ( t city be+ at logg]-heads ) ! ,c\nt ( ,b>celona accept$ ! ,cid's pr(f]$ s]vices1 & ! result 0 a battle 9 :i* ! ,catalans 7 badly beat54 ,) no prospects ( fur!r s]vice 9 ,aragon1 ! ,cid turn$ 8 face s\? & m>*$ on ,val5cia1 ^: ,moori% ,k+ ,yahya 0 only too pleas$ to reque/ 8 protection 9 advance1 in/ead ( succumb+ to 8 conqu]+ arm4 ,?us began ,rodrigo's connection ) ! city1 :i* ) "o or two int]vals end$ only at 8 dea?4 ,x 0 f ! top ( ! ,miguelete ,t[]1 :i* is pictur$ 9 my illu/ration ( ! ,ca!dral1 t he %[$ 8 wife ,xim5a & _! daught]s ! fair l& he _h conqu]$4 ,?is 0 9 #ajie1 :5 aft] hav+ rejo9$ ,alfonso & left him aga91 he _h return$ & recaptur$ ! city aft] a siege ( tw5ty mon?s4 ,f\r ye>s lat] di$ ! man ^: "n 0 a t]ror to ! ,infidel1 & 8 wid[ ,xim5a1 foll[+ ! traditions ( h] w>rior husb&1 held ,val5cia aga9/ ov]:elm+ hordes ( ,moors4 ,! /ory ( ! bitt] end1 h[ %e plac$ 8 body on 8 fav\rite w>-horse & drove x ?r\gh ! ranks ( ! enemy1 has always be5 a !me = ! balladmong] ( ,spa94 ,x 0 9 #adj ,b4,c4 t ,junius ,brutus f\nd$ a small ,roman colony on ! banks ( ! riv] ,turia4 ,pompey de/roy$ ?is settlem5t & rebuilt x4 ,9 #dac ! ,go?s took possession4 ,! ,emir ( ,cordova captur$ x 9 #gad & ,val5cia rema9$ a vassal /ate until ! fall ( ! ,omayeh dyna/y4 ,l o!r prov9ces1 x became m]g$ "u ! s+le bann] t float$ ov] ! great] "p ( ! ,p59sula at ! union ( ,aragon & ,ca/ile4 ,be+ a coa/ t[n & sav\r+ ( ! s\?1 x 0 n until ! "t ( ! bigot$ ,philip ,,iii4 t ! indu/ri\s & un=tunate ,moriscoe 0 f9ally expell$ f ! %elt] ( ,val5cia's walls4 ,illu/ration3 ,,val5cia4 ,,san ,,pablo ,s\*et sack$ ! place 9 ! ,napoleonic w>s & receiv$ ! title ( ,duke ( ,albuf]a f 8 ma/]4 ,r an empty hon\r1 ,albuf]a be+ ! l>ge & mal>i\s tract ( m>%l& along ! coa/ a few miles to ! s\? ( ,el ,grao1 & wor? b v little4 ,el ,grao is ,val5cia's ,port1 & is ?ree miles di/ant f ! city4 ,! road :i* connects ! two is ab\t ! busie/ high road ,i saw 9 ,spa94 ,f sunrise till long aft] sunset two /reams ( vehicles pass to & fro4 ,/r+s ( lad5 donkeys1 waggonettes cramm$ ) good-hum\r$ laugh+ fi%] & c\ntry folk pass along1 an electric tram c>ries ^? :o c af=d ! extra c5timos1 & ! c>riages ( ,val5cia's well-to-d citiz5s take !m to ! h>b\r = a brea? ( sea air out on ! breakwat]s4 ,ev]y?+ seems alive1 & ?\gh !re is t balmy feel+ 9 ! air :i* "o gets 9 ,&alusia1 !re is none ( ! indol5ce & s$uctive dolce f> ni5te ( t en*ant+ prov9ce4 ,no6 q ! o!r way 9 ,val5cia4 ,! peasants are extremely indu/ri\s4 ,! soil ( ! ,hu]ta be>s !m ?ree crops dur+ ! ye>4 ,! sy/em ( irrigation1 ! old ,moori% sy/em by-!-way1 is p]fect1 & ?\gh ! product ( a soil :i* is =c$ to be> m ?an x naturally c1 is re9=c$ at s[+ "t1 9 ! case ( corn1 by ,russian gra91 x _c be said t ,val5cia dep5ds on any outside help = h] prosp]ity4 ,! swamps bord]+ ! coa/ gr[ ! f9e/ rice 9 ! _w4 ,! w9es ( ! prov9ce are good & *eap1 held 9 mu* e/eem by ,fr5* m]*ants to =tify ! light] produce ( _! own c\ntry4 ,s *eap are !y 9 fact1 t 9 "s p>ts ( ! prov9ce x co/s m to get a dr9k ( wat] ?an a glass ( w9e4 ,yet drunk5ness is unkn[n4 ,if a ,val5cian took a drop too mu*1 he w\ld be promptly boycott$ by 8 neighb\rs1 & = ev] aft] look$ ^u z a disgu/+ & outl&i% boor1 a disgrace to 8 village & a man to be %unn$4 ,! peasant is v illit]ate & scrupul\sly hone/--! "o foll[s ! o!r4 ,l ! ,&alusian1 he is absolutely tru/wor?y 9 all 8 deal+s1 :i* are conduct$ by ^w ( m\?4 ,9 buy+ & sell+ no signatures to docum5ts pass betwe5 ! contract+ p>ties4 ,if any pap] is ev] sign$1 x is confirm$ by c]ta9 scrat*es or m>ks kn[n to belong to s & s--! signee4 ,8 ^w is 8 bond1 x is g5]ally all he c give1 b x is en\gh & is wor? m ?an signatures sometimes are4 ,fur!r nor?1 :]e mod]n ways ( life are m 9 vogue1 & :]e all is m advanc$1 !re are t5 lawy]s to ! "o 9 ,val5cia & ! s\?4 ,illu/ration3 ,,val5cia4 ,,door ,,( ,,! ,,ca!dral ,! ,ca!dral 0 orig9ally a ,go?ic /ructure1 b "o fa%ion foll[+ ano!r1 has be5 at diff]5t times s alt]$ & robb$ ( all ar*itectural beauty t !re rema9s b little ( int]e/ 9 ! build+4 ,x 0 f\nd$ 9 #abfb & f9i%$ two hundr$ ye>s lat]4 ,el ,miguelete1 ! celebrat$ ,bell ,t[]1 is s nam$ because ! bells 7 fir/ hung on ,/4 ,mi*ael's ,day4 ,l ! ,torre de ,vela ( ! ,alhambra1 a bell is "h /ruck :i* regulates ! irrigation ( ! ,hu]ta4 ,9 ?is connection1 & z an exemplification ( ! peasant's tru/wor?9ess1 once a mon?1 on a ,?ursday1 ! ,tribunal de ,aguas sits 9 ! ,plaza de la ,seo outside ! ,pu]to de los ,ap/oles or nor? door ( ! ,ca!dral4 ,its presid+ memb]s are *os5 by _! fell[ peasants = _! integrity & g5]al /&+ 9 ! community4 ,!y ex]cise absolute control ov] ! sev5 diff]5t irrigation di/ricts4 ,! ,gov]nm5t has once or twice int]f]$ ) ?is1 b unsuccessfully4 ,pla9tiffs & def5dants appe> be=e ?is primitive tribunal seat$ 9 a public squ>e4 ,! case is /at$1 pros & cons weigh$1 & judgm5t giv5 fairly on its m]its4 ,any "o pass+ c /op & he> ! argum5ts ( bo? sides4 ,z a pro( ( ! %rewdness ! peasants possess & ! confid5ce !y h 9 _! deal+s ) "o ano!r1 no appeal is ev] made f ! judgm5t ( _! eld]s4 ,?is nor? door has good sculptur$ figures 9 ! jambs & ar*ivolt4 ,above is a f9e rose w9d[4 ,^! are among ! rema9s ( ! fir/ build+4 ,ano!r relic ( ! e>ly /ructure is ! octagonal cimborio erect$ ab\t ! same "t z ! doorway1 i4e41 #acej4 ,! lancet w9d[s ov] ! ,pu]ta del ,palu1 :i* is surm\nt$ by a r\nd ar* ) c>v+s 9 ! jambs1 are all ( ! same p]iod4 ,! ?ird doorway1 ! ,pu]ta del ,miguelete1 is florid & ov]done1 & dates f ! eighte5? c5tury4 ,its bronze doors h[ev] are extremely f9e4 ,! be/ features ( ! mu*-spoilt int]ior are ! octagon & ! v beautiful ,cor9?ian sill]ia del coro4 ,! orig9al retablo ov] ! ,high ,alt> 0 set on fire by ! light$ cotton atta*$ to a pigeon let loose at a religi\s c]emony 9 #adfi4 ,! side panels alone 7 sav$ f ! results ( ! t]rifi$ bird's erratic flight4 ,close by on a pill> is hung ! arm\r ( ,james ,i4 ( ,aragon4 ,ov] ! sacri/y door is a good pa9t+ by ,ribalta ( ,*ri/ ,be>+ ! ,cross1 & 9 ! ante-room an ,adoration by ,rib]a1 besides five good examples ( ,juanes' bru%4 ,among ! treasures ( ! ,ca!dral is an extraord9>y piece ( goldsmi?'s "w1 a ,calix1 %[+ f\r diff]5t p]iods ( ?is art1 i4e41 ,roman1 ,i,xth1 ,x,vth & ,x,v,ith c5turies4 ,x figures 9 ! picture ( ! ,la/ ,supp] by ,juanes1 :i* is n[ 9 ! ,prado at ,madrid4 ,an int]e/+ trophy also belongs to ! ,ca!dral 9 ! %ape ( ! *a9 :i* at "o "t clos$ ! old ,port ( ,m>seilles4 ,! _m diff]5t v>ieties ( m>ble us$ 9 ! decoration ( ! build+ =m a v pleas+ s]ies1 & g "s way t[>ds comp5sat+ ! disappo9tm5t "o exp]i5ces ) ! mu*-alt]$ /yle ( :at ought to be a gr& int]ior4 ,i saw a good procession "o ev5+ w5d+ its way ?r\gh ! cr[ds :i* l9$ ! n>r[ /reet ne> ! *ur* ( ,santa ,catal9a4 ,! balconies 7 fill$ ) occupants :o %[]$ rose leaves d[n z ! effigy ( ,/4 ,john pass$ by4 ,! light f ! tor*es c>ri$ by "s boys flick]$ upw>ds & caught ! faces ( ^? pe]+ ov] f _! vantage po/s above4 ,! cr[d knelt z ! sa9t pass$1 & once m ! vitality ( ! ,*ur*1 :i* ,i c\ld n b feel :]ev] ,i w5t 9 ,spa9 is ! ?+ t lives1 0 aga9 9 evid5ce4 ,ov] ! door ( ! *ur* ( ,san ,m>t9 is a good eque/rian gr\p 9 bronze4 ,san ,dom+o has "s v beautiful cloi/]s ( late ,go?ic date1 & ,san ,salvador possesses ,val5cia's miracul\s image4 ,nicodemus is reput$ to h made ?is1 ! ,*ri/ ( ,beyr\t4 ,! m>vell\s relic navigat$ itself f ,syria across ! wat]s ( ! ,m$it]ranean & rea*$ ,val5cia aga9/ ! riv]'s /ream4 ,a monum5t on ! bank m>ks ! spot :]e ! wond]ful voyage end$ by ! safe l&+ ( ! ,*ri/4 ,x is mu* visit$ by ! dev\t4 ,9 ! *apel atta*$ to ! ,colegio del ,patri>ca hangs ,ribalta's f9e ,la/ ,supp]4 ,e ,friday morn+ at t5 o'clock ! ,mis]]e is celebrat$ "h4 ,! impressive c]emony comm5ces ) ! sl[ l[]+ ( ?is picture f its place above ! ,high ,alt>4 ,! void is fill$ by a d>k clo?1 :i*1 z ! s]vice proce$s1 is g5tly drawn aside disclos+ a second clo?1 ?is is aga9 repeat$1 foll[$ by ano!r1 & :5 ?is1 ! f\r? clo?1 is p>t$ asund] a f9e pa9t+ ( ,*ri/ ,crucifi$ is reveal$4 ,mean:ile *ants appropriate to ! solemn s]vice h be5 fill+ ! *ur* & increas+ ! t5sion ( ! congregation4 ,! :ole c]emony is a v good piece ( /age managem5t & c]ta9ly mo/ ?rill+ & inspir+4 ,! black mantilla = ladies is de rigeur4 ,illu/ration3 ,,val5cia4 ,,religi\s ,,procession ,val5cia's walls1 erect$ 9 #acef1 7 demoli%$ 9 #ahga to give "w to ! unemploy$1 & ! spaci\s ,paseo made 9 _! /ead4 ,! trees plant$ along ?is c>riage drive h add$ mat]ially to ! heal? ( ! city4 ,( ! two rema9+ gates1 ! ,torres de ,s]ranos is mu* ! bett]4 ,built 9 ! second half ( ! f\rte5? c5tury on ,roman f\ndations1 its massive con/ruction & great height are v gr&4 ,x is "o ( ! be/ gates ,i "k4 ,! ar*way itself is r l[4 ,! d\ble floors above h f9e ,go?ic vault+ & are approa*$ by a flight ( /eps4 ,! gall]y is support$ on heavy corbels1 & ! cornice has deep ma*icolations4 ,! :ole rises 9 isolat$ gr&eur & may p]haps ga91 f ! pa9t]'s po9t ( view1 by ! abs5ce ( flank+ walls4 ,! ,torre de ,cu>to is ano!r enorm\s gateway ) two huge r\nd t[]s on ei!r side4 ,x /ill be>s ! m>ks ( ,s\*et's artill]y--^: r\nd %ot did app>5tly no damage :atev]4 ,n f> f ?is gate lies ! ,m]cado situat$ 9 ! middle ( ! old qu>t]s ( ! city4 ,val5cia is q a mod]n t[n1 x is rapidly los+ ev]y?+ ( any age1 & *ang+ its n>r[ insanit>y /reets = spaci\s well-built ?or\ghf>es4 ,! ,m]cado is by f> ! l>ge/ & mo/ attractive m>ket 9 ,spa94 ,fruit & vegetables1 wick] goods ( all sorts1 baskets1 *airs1 toys1 lea!r-"w & h>ness1 brightly col\r$ mule trapp+s1 e description ( wood & metal-"w1 ! usual assortm5t ( old iron1 lamps antique & mod]n1 oleographs & *romos1 sa9ts & virg9s jo/l+ ! late/ *eap reproduction ( a fam\s ,torr]o or ,bail>9a1 furniture1 worn-out field implem5ts & new cutl]y1 lace1 ev]y?+1 9 fact1 includ+ smells1 ! v>iety ( :i* ,i f\nd unequall$ any:]e4 ,/rong g>lic assault$ my no/rils--9 ?ree m /eps ,i 0 9 ! mid/ ( roses & c>nations1 half a doz5 m & a horribly rank *eese made ! air vibrate2 & s x cont9u$ f "o end to ! o!r ( ?is mo/ fasc9at+ kaleidoscopic ?rong1 to /udy :i* ,i return$ e day ( my soj\rn 9 ,val5cia4 ,on "o side ( ?is wond]ful m>ket-place /&s ! ,lonja de la ,s$a4 ,x dates f #adhb & occupies ! site ( ! ,moori% ,alcz>4 ,p]haps ( all ! examples ( ,go?ic civil ar*itecture 9 ,europe1 ! ,lonja de la ,s$a c claim ! fir/ place4 ,! we/ faade1 fac+ ! ,m]cado1 has a d\ble r[ ( squ>e-topp$ ,go?ic w9d[s1 above :i* is a trac]i$ gall]y runn+ r\nd ! entire build+ ) g>goyles & a frieze ( heads bel[ ! embattl$ p>apet4 ,9 ! c5tre is a ,t[] ) a c\ple ( ,go?ic w9d[s4 ,!re are two sep>ate build+s 9 ?is ,silk ,ex*ange1 "o ( :i* has a beautiful c\rt4 ,! :ole ( ! o!r is occupi$ by ! ,ex*ange ,hall4 ,! ri* /> vault+ ( ! int]ior is borne by two r[s ( spiral columns )\t capitals2 !y bran* out to ! ro( l ! leaves ( a palm tree & x is v evid5t t ?is beautiful treatm5t 0 sugge/$ by ! gr[? ( ! tree4 ,val5cia has always be5 celebrat$ = a c]ta9 /yle or s*ool ( pa9t+1 & 9 ! ,museum1 :i* occupies ! build+s ( ! old ,conv5to del ,c>m51 ,ribalta1 ,esp9osa & ,juanes are se5 at _! be/4 ,! s*ool is not$ = ! peculi> deep r$ und]tone ( ! %ad[s1 :i* is v m>k$ly app>5t 9 ! works hang+ on ^! walls4 ,!re are also "s beautiful examples ( native fai5ce & pott]y1 = ,val5cia is /ill ! home ( ,spani% lu/re w>e4 ,! ,val5cians are great bird fanci]s1 & v ke5 pigeon %ots4 ,num]\s l(ts built on ! ro(s = ^! birds cut ! sky-l9e 9 ! old qu>t]s ( ! city4 ,sunday sees ! dry b$ ( ! ,turia full ( competitors 9 %oot+ mat*es1 :5 toll is tak5 ( ! fea!r$ inhabitants ( ^! airy dwell+s4 ,if x 7 n = ! r bad dr9k+ wat] & ! mal>i\s m>%es1 ! bre$+-gr\nd ( a mo/ p>ticul>ly v5om\s mosquito1 ,val5cia w\ld be z pleasant & lively a spot = resid5ce z any 9 ,spa94 ,! climate is good & x is ne> ! sea4 ,x /&s on ! edge ( a v]itable fruit g>d51 & its p are pleasant & fri5dly4 ,,tortosa ,j\rney+ to ,val5cia f ! nor? "o is c>ri$ along a gr& bit ( coa/ ) glimpses ( ! blue ,m$it]ranean roll+ 9 on /ret*es ( yell[ s&1 & break+ into spray on ! rocks above :i* ! tra9 runs4 ,! rapido /ops = lun* at ,tortosa1 & ,i got out int5d+ to /ay if !re 0 any?+ 9 ! fam\s old city or its ,ca!dral :i* might be> illu/rat+ 9 ?is book4 ,i rea*$ ! be/ fonda 9 ! place1 & 0 he>tily welcom$ by its lively little l&lord1 :o imm$iately h&$ me "o ( 8 c>ds1 :]eon 0 set out1 among/ _m sup]latives1 ! news t an int]pret] 0 atta*$ to ! h\se4 ,gone away = ! day1 seor1 0 ! reply :5 ,i ask$ = an int]view4 ,he 0 always away ,i fe>2 h[ev]1 ,i did n ne$ 8 s]vices & my ho/ & ,i became fa/ fri5ds4 ,s fri5dly inde$ t ,i only j avoid$ an embrace at p>t+ on ! day ,i left4 ,he took great int]e/ 9 my do+s1 & on 8 side gave me mu* in=mation4 ,he expla9$ to me h[ ! mighty ,ebro1 on :i* ,tortosa is situat$1 & to :i* x owes its exi/5ce1 _h ris5 9 flood dur+ ! disa/r\s ,octob] ( #aijg4 ,"r up to "h1 seor--?is :ile ,i 0 hav+ lun*--& he po9t$ to a spot a c\ple ( in*es (f ! floor ( ! com$or1 :i* 0 on ! fir/ floor ( ! h\se--,a t]rible flood t8--,yes1 seor1 ! /reets 7 = weeks full ( mud & all sorts ( ?+s4 ,hundr$s ( poor p lo/ ev]y?+ & _m 7 swept out to sea4 ,ano!r day ,i rem>k$ on ! gas t lit ! fonda & ask$ my ho/ :y he _h n put 9 electric light4 ,x is too exp5sive1 seor2 "s p h x1 & ! ,m>ket ,hall is lit by x2 b y mu/ und]/& t ,tortosa long ago did away ) oil lamps & 0 "o ( ! fir/ places 9 ,spa9 to use gas4 ,& n[8--well x is en\gh = u1 & ! electric light is too exp5sive4 ,else:]e 9 ,spa9 ,i h be5 told ) pride t ! c\ntry is /ill 9 ! =emo/ rank ( civilisation--:atev] ! ,progressive ,press says--& ! almo/ univ]sal use ( electricity has be5 po9t$ out to v]ify ! boa/4 ,b ,tortosa1 :i* l$ ! van :5 gas 0 a novelty1 is ! only place ( any importance t ,i "k :i* is /ill lit by ?is means4 ,local tradition has x1 t ! city dates back to ! "t ( ,/4 ,paul :o1 ,i 0 told1 settl$ "h & built himself a nice little h\se4 ,:atev] ! sa9t did x is on record t be=e 8 day ! t[n 0 an important ,ib]ian port ( ! ,il]caones tribe1 & 9 lat] ye>s "u ! ,romans1 possess$ a m9t ( its own1 be+ !n kn[n z ,julia ,augu/a ,d]tosa4 ,/rategically ! key ( ! great riv]1 ,tortosa 0 subject to repeat$ attempts at capture by ^? n 9 occupation4 ,dur+ ! "t :5 x 0 held by ! ,moors1 ,*>lemagne's son ,l\is1 aft] an unsuccessful attempt1 ga9$ possession1 only to be driv5 out 9 ! ye> #haj4 ,x 0 n until #aadh t ! ,infidel's reign 0 f9ally t]m9at$ by ,ramon ,b]eugu]1 ,c\nt ( ,b>celona4 ,9 ! foll[+ ye> a desp]ate attempt 0 made by ! ,moors to retake _! /ronghold1 & ! inhabitants1 r$uc$ to ! la/ /age ( despair1 contemplat$ ! sacrifice ( _! wom5 & *ildr51 & !n a f9al sortie to end _! own lives4 ,! wom51 h[ev]1 %[$ a true militant _s1 !y c\rt$ dea?1 b n 9 ?is mean mann]4 ,m\nt+ ! h>dly def5sible walls ) e & any weapon !y c\ld lay h&s on1 ! m5 7 direct$ to sally =?4 ,! gates 7 op5$1 & *e]$ on by _! wives & daught]s1 ! /]n] sex ru%$ out4 ,s det]m9$ 0 ! onslaught t ! ,moori% ho/ 0 beat5 back & fl$ leav+ all ! plund] 9 8 camp beh9d4 ,ramon1 to %[ 8 appreciation ( ! h]oism display$ by ! fair ones1 inve/$ !m ) ! ,ord] ( ! ,axe 7,la ,ha*a7 & decorat$ !m ) ! r$ milit>y sc>f4 ,also decree+ t at _! m>riage !y %\ld prec$e mank9d1 & to ?is add$ ! privilege ( duty-free dress mat]ials4 ,:at m c\ld woman want8 ,! ,ca!dral occupies ! site ( a mosque erect$ 9 #iad by ,abd]rhaman4 ,a ,cufic inscription 9 ! wall at ! back ( ! sacri/y relates ?is ) ! date4 ,bi%op ,lanfr$o d$icat$ ! build+ to ! ,virg9 9 #aaeh1 b ! pres5t /ructure dates f #acdg4 ,x is extremely good ,go?ic1 ) a heavy b>oque we/ faade1 ugly & ill-proportion$4 ,( ! ext]ior b little is visible1 & my sket* simply includes ! upp] "p ( ! faade1 visible ov] ! ro(s ( ! qua9t old t[n1 ) ! riv] fl[+ 9 front4 ,! int]ior is v simple & dignifi$4 ,! sl5d] columns ( ! nave rise to a great height2 ! light t filt]s ?r\gh ! few cl]e/ory w9d[s t are n block$ subdues ! g>i%ness ( a bad trascoro1 & f9ds its way among/ ! trac]y ( ! ar*es ( ! d\ble apse4 ,9 ,avila ,ca!dral ?is same feature prevails4 ,a d\ble aisl$ apse ) op5-"w trac]y betwe5 ! ar*es & bel[ ! vault+ ( ! aisles4 ,illu/ration3 ,,tortosa ,! sill]ia ( ! coro 7 c>v$ by ,cri/bal de ,salamanca 9 #aehh1 & are really beautiful4 ,! two pulpits are cov]$ ) int]e/+ iron bas-reliefs1 & ! ,high ,alt> encas$ 9 a mass ( plat]esque silv] "w4 ,! retablo is a good specim5 ( e>ly ,go?ic "w1 & ,i c\ld n help ?9k+ h[ mu* bett] su* an "o is ?an ! _m ov]done *irrugu]esque atrocities met ) 9 m fam\s places4 ,tortosa is ! c5tre ( a di/rict ! m\nta9s ( :i* yield _m diff]5t k9ds ( m>ble1 & ! ,ca!dral is especially ri* 9 ^!4 ,p]haps ! *apel ( ,c9ta conta9s ! be/2 ! mo/ us$ is ! broccatello di spagna a purple col\r ) t9y m>9e molluscs emb$d$ 9 ! h>d clay4 ,! ,ca!dral is adorn$ at c]ta9 fe/ivals ) a s]ies ( spl5did tape/ries1 & among/ _m relics ov]look$ & left by ! ,fr5* is a f9e ,moori% casket ( ivory4 ,pope ,adrian ,,iv41 ! ,engli%man1 0 at "o "t ,bi%op ( ,tortosa1 a fact :i* add$ int]e/ to ?is beautiful little ,ca!dral4 ,! cloi/]s are e>ly po9t$ ,go?ic1 n[ mu* dilapidat$ & unc>$ =4 ,on ! encircl+ walls are _m highly int]e/+ mural tablets1 a few ( :i* h recumb5t figures cut 9 l[ relief ) _! backs to ! wall1 z is ! case 9 ! e>lie/ ,go?ic effigies ( ?is sort4 ,,t>ragona ,my recollections ( ,t>ragona c be summ$ up 9 ?ree words--blue sea1 sun%9e1 & peace4 ,"s fifte5 or tw5ty ye>s ago ! quays ( its f9e h>b\r 7 full ( life & bu/le1 %ips ent]$ ! port & %ips w5t out4 ,! trade ) ,france 9 light w9es 0 good1 & ) ,engl& & ,am]ica 9 ^? ( heavi] quality1 bett] /ill4 ,n[adays x is *eap] to s5d w9es by rail4 ,reus1 a railway c5tre a few miles inl&1 has captur$ a great deal ( ,t>ragona's trade1 & mod]n hi/ory repeats itself once m4 ,*eap & quick deliv]y are ! wat*words4 ,hurry & hu/le are leav+ ! old trad+ t[ns beh9d4 ,b>celona is n f> away4 ,c5tralisation is ev]y?+1 & ?us x happ5$ t ,i f\nd v few places 9 ,spa9 s reposeful z ,t>ragona4 ,& ,i might add s beautifully situat$ z ?is old city :i* climbs & cr[ns a hill t rises f ! v edge ( ! blue ,m$it]ranean4 ,v few cities 9 ,spa9 c boa/ ( prehi/oric walls /ill extant4 ,t>ragona c d s4 ,! huge unev5 blocks ( granite1 :i* may be se5 9 my sket* ( ! ,ar*bi%op's ,t[]1 occupy ! l[] portion ( ! old ,roman walls4 ,on ! nor? side ( ! city !y are ev5 m visible ?an 9 ! sket*4 ,"s ( ! blocks measure ?irte5 by sev5 by five feet4 ,?ree ( ! anci5t portals1 ! /one ( :i* is fac$ inside1 /ill exi/1 b app>5tly no records d1 to tell u :o plac$ ^! ,cyclopean def5ces :]e !y /& to-day4 ,_m rema9s ( ,roman days may be se5 built into ! h\ses ( ! old & high] t[n1 tablets1 mural inscriptions1 bits ( columns1 c4 ,! ,ca!dral possesses num]\s pl9?s & pill>s ( m>ble f ! qu>ries at ,tortosa1 built into its walls1 & ! ,font 9 ! ,bapti/]y is an old ,roman bas94 ,:at a glori\s city x mu/ h be5 :5 ! ,emp]or ,augu/us made x 8 capital6 & ! ov]l& trade met ! sea-go+ 9 ! h>b\r bel[4 ,tw5ty miles away at ,gay ! ,romans tapp$ a cont9u\s supply ( fre% wat]1 & _! aqu$uct1 a good deal ( :i* rema9s1 ranks next to t ( ,segovia 9 size1 & /&s z an example ( h[ ! ,romans built4 ,roman villas ) incomp>able views out to sea1 dott$ ! hillsides2 temples to e god & goddess rose 9 ! city1 :i* conta9$ a million inhabitants4 ,x possess$ a m9t ( its own1 &1 fav\r$ by nature & art1 became kn[n z ,colonia victrix togata turrita4 ,illu/ration3 ,,t>ragona ,! ,moslem sack$ ,t>ragona1 & = f\r c5turies "o ( ! glories ( ,colonial ,rome lay a heap ( ru9s4 ,9 #ajhi1 at ! comm5cem5t ( ! build+ ( ! ,ca!dral1 ! see1 mu* to ! disgu/ ( ,tol$o1 0 rais$ to metropolitan dignity4 ,!nce=?1 betwe5 ! two cities1 endless disputes h aris5 z to ! ,primacy ( ,spa94 ,?\gh begun at ! above date1 mo/ ( ! ,ca!dral is ( twelf? & e>ly ?irte5?-c5tury "w4 ,x is n kn[n :o design$ ?is magnific5t *ur*1 ! f9e/ example ( ,transition 9 ,spa94 ,! int]ior is v simple & v dignifi$4 ,! ro( is borne by gr& pi]s1 ?irty-five feet 9 circumf]5ce4 ,_! bases are brok5 by f\r seats1 "o 9 ea* corn]1 plac$ ?us to enhance ! l9e ( ! composition1 & break ! o!rwise too great sev]ity ( ! f\ndations4 ,!re is no tri=ium2 b an e>ly po9t$ cl]e/ory ( l>ge bays1 & a sup]b rose w9d[ 9 ! we/1 ( date #aaca1 admit a flood ( light4 ,no?+ c\ld well be simpl] ?an ! pairs ( massive columns :i* c>ry ! c5tre ar*es ( ! vault+1 nor f9] ?an ! delicate s+le att5dant at _! sides f :i* spr+ ! transv]se sections4 ,all ^! are capp$ ) squ>e ,romanesque capitals4 ,! *ancel is pure ,romanesque & v beautiful4 ,! semicircul> end ( ! ,capilla ,mayor & ! two small apses are ! olde/ "p ( ?is noble build+4 ,! retablo ( ! ,high ,alt> is alaba/]1 & c>v$ ) reliefs ( ! m>tyrdom ( ,santa ,tecla1 ,t>ragona's patroness4 ,! delicate tap]+ f9ials & ! figures "u canopies bel[1 are c>v$ 9 wood4 ,beh9d ! ,high ,alt> is a v int]e/+ urn :i* conta9s ! a%es ( ,cyprian1 a ,go?ic ar*bi%op4 ,! f9e cimborio :i* rises above ! cross+ has eight w9d[s ( ?ree & f\r lights alt]nately1 :i* conta9 fragm5ts ( v brilliant col\r$ glass4 ,9 ! transepts are two magnific5t :eel w9d[s full ( good glass1 inde$ ,i "k ( no bett] s*eme ( col\r ?an t :i* adorns ?is w9d[ on ! s\? side4 ,! sill]ia del coro are ! "w ( ,francisco ,gom> & date f #adgh4 ,! body ( ,james ,i4 ( ,aragon lies 9 a tomb at ! we/ end ( ! trascoro1 hav+ be5 br\ght "h f ! ru9$ ,mona/]y ( ,poblet--! ,escorial ( ,aragon4 ,a ru9 :]e /ill lie "u _! mu* despoil$ & mutilat$ tombs "s ( ! rul]s ( t k+dom4 ,illu/ration3 ,,t>ragona4 ,,! ,,ar*bi%op',s ,,t[] ,?is gr& ,ca!dral is n dep5d5t on gloom or subdu$ light = its great impressiv5ess4 ,on ! contr>y x is ! be/ lit ( any ( ,spa9's ,ca!drals1 & x is on its excell5t proportions & scale alone t its reputation = solemnity w always re/1 & its maje/y be ev] rememb]$4 ,! we/ faade1 comm5c$ 9 #abdh1 is con/ruct$ ( a light-col\r$ /one1 :i* "t has improv$ into a v beautiful si5na br[n4 ,! upp] portion is unf9i%$4 ,9 ! c5tre is a f9e & deeply recess$ ,go?ic portal1 flank$ by two massive buttresses4 ,"u ,go?ic canopies /& /atues ( ! ,apo/les & ,prophets1 ! l9tel ( ! doorway is support$ by a ,virg9 & ,*ild1 above :i* is ! ,savi\r1 & a r[ ( figures ris+ out ( _! tombs on ! ,judgm5t ,day4 ,above all is ! already-m5tion$ rose w9d[4 ,s well does ! mass ( ! build+ rise above ! adjac5t ro(s t ?is w9d[ is visible f ! breakwat] ( ! h>b\r4 ,! two doorways on ei!r side ( ! faade are pure ,romanesque4 ,ea* is surm\nt$ by a small :eel w9d[4 ,! iron "w :i* cov]s ! doors is ( a v intricate design2 & ! huge iron knock]s ) grotesque heads1 ! h+es ( ! doors1 & ! copp] "w z well1 gave me _m pleasant mom5ts 9 m>vell+ at ! skill ( ! smi?s ( days gone by4 ,x 0 9 ! cloi/]s h[ev] t ,i f\nd ! greate/ *>m ( ! :ole ,ca!dral4 ,! c\rt is a v]itable g>d51 :]e date palms1 fig trees & ole&]s cr[d "o ano!r 9 ! neatly arrang$ b$s beh9d box h$ges4 ,i sp5t _m pleasant h\rs 9 ?is delightful spot1 my solitude brok5 by occasional visits f ! ,sacri/an1 :o1 9 8 fad$ & pat*$ purple cassock1 came 9 at odd times = a *at4 ,v pr\d ( 8 ,ca!dral 0 ?is quiet cu/odian1 & ,i %all nev] =get 8 s(t voice & w9n+ smile1 nor ! great int]e/ he ev9c$ 9 my sket*4 ,! swifts ru%$ scream+ pa/1 ! bees humm$ f fl[] to fl[]1 ! sc5t ( ! plants 0 delici\s1 ! w>m sun & ! spla% ( ! f\nta9--turn$ on = my b5efit--all w5t to help ! welcome repose & =getfulness ( ! out] _w t ov]came me z long z ,i 0 at "w 9 ?is little ,p>adise4 ,! d\ble doorway 9 ! nor? transept ?r\gh :i* "o ent]s ! cloi/]s f ! ,ca!dral1 is ! f9e/ ( all4 ,! capitals ( its deta*$ %afts are wond]fully c>v$4 ,!y repres5t ! ,awak+ ( ! ,?ree ,k+s by an ,angel1 ! ,nativity & ! ,j\rney ( ! ,magi4 ,! arcad+ ( ! cloi/]s consi/s ( six bays on all f\r sides1 ^! bays are subdivid$ into ?ree r\nd ar*es1 ) a c\ple ( circul> op5+s above & enclos$ )9 ! ar*4 ,"s ( ^! op5+s conta9 v beautifully c>v$ trac]y4 ,illu/ration3 ,,t>ragona4 ,,! ,,cloi/]s ,! capitals ( ! columns are a museum ( qua9t fancy & good c>v+4 ,9 "o set1 all ! incid5ts ( a sea voyage are cut1 9 ano!r1 mice are se5 c>ry+ a cat to 8 grave1 :o1 %amm+ dea?1 turns & dev\rs "s ( !m be=e 8 obsequies are complete4 ,!re is a ,desc5t f ! ,cross1 :]e "o ( ! ,fai?ful wields a pair ( p9c]s mu* long] ?an 8 own arms1 s det]m9$ is he to pull out ! nails t cruelly w\nd ,*ri/'s h&s4 ,_m fragm5ts ( ,roman sculpture are let into ! walls2 & a lovely little ,moori% ar*1 ) a ,cufic inscription & date #ifj1 rem9ds "o ( ! ,infidel's rule ov] ! city4 ,to rea* times ne>] our own1 !re are two inscriptions tell+ ( ! occupation by ,briti% troops1 :i* run--#e? ,company & fur!r on #f? ,company--obvi\sly po9t+ to ! fact t ^! lovely cloi/]s %elt]$ "s ( our own troops dur+ ! ,p59sul> ,w>4 ,l _m o!r ,ca!drals1 ,t>ragona's possesses a gr& s]ies ( tape/ries1 :i* are hung r\nd ! columns & walls dur+ c]ta9 fe/ivals4 ,!y are mo/ly ,flemi% & n 9 any way ecclesia/ical4 ,"o inde$ t ,i saw 0 any?+ b ?is4 ,cupid 0 lead+ a lady1 :o 0 9 d%abille1 into h] *amb]1 :]e91 by a f\r-po/ b$1 /ood a g5tleman ) a light$ tap] 9 8 h&6 ,x 0 pleasant 9 ! ev5+ to /roll d[n to ! h>b\r & out along ! mole1 to wat* ! deep-sea fi%+ fleet race home ) ! long sweeps out 9 e boat z ! w9d dropp$ & ! sea became an oily calm4 ,i mu/ own x 0 ) great regret ,i left ?is n[ peaceful spot--a city t once boa/$ ( a million inhabitants1 & prior to t 0 a great ,pho5ician port6 ,( all ! ,ca!dral ,cities ( ,spa9 ,i w\ld r return to ,t>ragona ?an any o!r1 hold conv]se ) my fri5d ! ,sacri/an1 :o kn[s & loves 8 ,ca!dral s well1 & end ! day z ! sun goes d[n wat*+ ! boats return f long h\rs ( toil4 ,,b>celona ,b>celona ! ,progressive1 ! f9e/ port ( ,spa91 ) its l>ge h>b\r1 its wide b\lev>ds1 spl5did suburbs1 good hotels1 huge factories & mod]n prosp]ity has well e>n$ ! title ( fir/ city ( ! ,new ,spa94 ,amilc> ,b>ca 9 #bbe ,b4,c4 f\nd$ ! ,c>?ag5ian city :i* occupi$ ! ,tab] hill on :i* ! ,ca!dral n[ /&s1 & tw5ty ye>s lat] x became a colony ( ,rome4 ,remnants ( ! old walls c /ill be trac$ 9 ! n>r[ /reets :i* c5tre r\nd ! ,holy ,fabric4 ,"u ! ,go?s1 ,b>c9o1 z x 0 !n call$1 rose to "s importance1 money co9$ "h be>s ! leg5d ,b>c9ona4 ,! ,moors 7 9 possession ( ! sea-wa%$ =tress = ab\t "o hundr$ ye>s1 & !n ! reign ( ! ,c\nts ( ,b>celona1 indep5d5t sov]eigns1 began4 ,c\nt ,ramon ,b]5gu] ,i41 :o rul$ f #ajbe to #ajgg1 in/itut$ ! fam\s ,cdego de los ,usatjes de ,catalua1 an admirable code ( laws1 to :i* 0 add$ 9 ! ?irte5? c5tury ! ,consulado del m> de ,b>celona4 ,?is latt] code obta9$ 9 ! comm]cial _w ( ,europe ! same au?ority z ! old ,leges ,rhodi ( ! anci5ts4 ,:5 at ! height ( its prosp]ity1 ,b>celona1 ! c5tre ( comm]ce1 receiv$ a sev]e bl[ by ! union ( ,catalua ) ,aragon1 on ! occasion ( ! m>riage ( ,c\nt ,ramon ,b]5gu] ,,iv4 to ,petronila daught] ( ,ramiro ,,ii4 ,k+ ( ,aragon4 ,:5 ,aragon & ,ca/ile 7 unit$ ,b>celona became subject to ! ,ca?olic ,k+s1 & ev] s9ce1 9 language1 9 habits & ent]prise has %[n h] dislike = & h] /ruggle aga9/ ! ways ( ,ca/ile4 ,to-day ,b>celona is f> 9 advance ( any o!r city ( ,spa94 ,i felt ,i 0 once m 9 ,europe :5 ! com=table hotel 'bus rattl$ along ?r\gh ! well-lit /reets4 ,p]haps ,i 0 gett+ tir$ ( life 9 ! ,middle ,ages1 & 0 obsess$ ) ,m$ival ,cities6 ,at any rate1 a clean b$ 9 a mod]n hotel 0 a luxury ,i ?or\ghly appreciat$1 & ,i />t$ ! next morn+ to explore1 ) a m9d at ease & a consci\sness t !re w\ld be no irritat+ little p9-pricks1 no maana = a c\ple ( weeks at lea/4 ,illu/ration3 ,,b>celona4 ,,9 ,,! ,,ca!dral ,! ,ca!dral /&s on ! site ( a ,pagan ,*ur* conv]t$ by ! ,moors into a ,mosque4 ,! pres5t edifice replac$ ! ,*ri/ian ,*ur* :i* sup]s$$ ?is ,mosque1 & 0 begun 9 #abih4 ,! crypt 0 f9i%$ 9 #acci & ! cloi/]s 9 #achh4 ,! we/ faade 0 cov]$ ) scaffold+ :ile ,i 0 !re1 & s may p]haps be complet$ 9 ano!r ?irty ye>s4 ,! int]ior ( ?is spl5did ,go?ic *ur* is v d>k4 ,! po9t$ w9d[s are all fill$ ) magnific5t fifte5?-c5tury glass4 ,at ! sunset h\r1 :5 ! rays ( light /rike l[ & filt] ?r\gh ! _m col\rs ( ^! w9d[s1 ! effect 9 ! gloom ( ?is solemn build+ is mo/ beautiful4 ,z ! orb ( day s9ks l[] & l[] ! light l+]s on column aft] column "r up ! l(ty nave to ! ,high ,alt> until he sudd5ly disappe>s1 & all )9 is wrapt 9 deep twilight4 ,! nave is v n>r[ & v high4 ,! clu/]$ columns seem to disappe> into space1 & ! vault+ is almo/ lo/ 9 ! d>kness4 ,!re are deep gall]ies ov] ! side *apels 9 ! aisles1 :i* h a r curi\s arrangem5t ( vault+4 ,f ! ro( ( ! aisles at ea* bay dep5d massive circul> lamps :i* cat* ! light & height5 ! effect ( my/]y :i* is omnipres5t ?r\gh\t ! ,ca!dral4 ,a flight ( /eps 9 front ( ! ,high ,alt>--an almo/ unique feature--leads d[n to ! crypt1 :]e re/s ! body ( ,santa ,eulalia1 ,b>celona's patron sa9t4 ,h] alaba/] %r9e is adorn$ ) reliefs ( diff]5t incid5ts 9 h] life4 ,! retablo ( ! ,high ,alt> is ri*ly ornate ) tap]+ ,go?ic f9ials ( ! fifte5? c5tury2 bel[ x is a s>cophagus conta9+ ! rema9s ( ,/4 ,sev]us4 ,above ! ,go?ic sill]ia del coro hang ! coats-(-arms ( ! ,knights ( ! ,gold5 ,fleece4 ,among !m are ^? ( ,h5ry ,,viii4 ( ,engl&4 ,! only in/allation ( ! ,ord] 0 held "h by ,*>les ,v4 ,! side *apels conta9 v little ( int]e/1 b ! cloi/]s are o!rwise4 ,ent]$ ei!r f ! /reet or ! s\? door ( ! ,ca!dral _! beauty is v /rik+4 ,9 ! c5tre palms & orange trees re> _! heads1 & ! spla% ( ! f\nta9s1 9 "o ( :i* ! sacr$ geese are kept1 is refre%+ly cool aft] ! bu/le ( /reets outside4 ,san ,pablo del ,campo1 n[ a b>rack1 is ! mo/ int]e/+ ( ,b>celona's ecclesia/ical rema9s4 ,?is *ur*1 built by ,wilfr$ ,,ii4 9 #iac1 is m l ! anci5t *ur*es ( ,galicia ?an ^? ( ,catalonia4 ,v small & cruci=m1 a solid dome rises f ! c5tre4 ,its cloi/]s are p]fect1 ! arcad+ is compos$ ( d\ble %afts ) well-cut figures on ! capitals4 ,! peculi>ity ( ,catalonia's *ur*es is well illu/rat$ 9 ! aisleless ,santa ,m>ia del ,m>1 ,san ,j1 & ,santa ,m>ia del ,pi4 ,! fir/ nam$ has "s magnific5t glass & f\r good pictures by ,viladomt1 & 9 ! crypt b5ea? ! ,high ,alt> a curi\s wood5 figure ( ,san ,alajo4 ,san ,j has ! belfry common to ! *ur*es ( ,catalonia1 an op5 iron-"w scre51 f :i* dep5d ! bells1 & ,santa ,m>ia del ,pi conta9s a f9e :eel w9d[ & m magnific5t glass4 ,a relic ( ,loyola1 ! sword t he (f]$ on ! ,alt> ( ! ,virg9 at ,monts]rat1 is /ill pres]v$ 9 ! old ,jesuit ,*ur* ( ,nue/ra ,seora de ,bel54 ,among ! _m notable build+s 9 ,b>celona is ! ,casa ,consi/orial1 or ,t[n ,hall4 ,x 0 built 9 #acgh1 & has a v orig9al ,go?ic front4 ,a beautiful patio ) sl5d] ar*es & twi/$ columns adds to ! int]e/ ( ! int]ior4 ,! ,casa de la ,diputacion opposite conta9s ! picture on :i* ,=tuny 0 at "w :5 he di$4 ,! patio "h is p]haps bett] ?an t 9 ! ,casa ,consi/orial4 ,x is 9 ?ree /ages1 f ! topmo/ ( :i* huge g>goyles ( all sorts ( devils & mon/]s re> _! ugly heads4 ,9 ! old qu>t]s ( ! city1 :]e ! five-& six-/ori$ h\ses almo/ t\*1 ! /reets are v tortu\s & n consid]$ safe at night4 ,9 ?is respect1 h[ev]1 ,b>celona does n /& alone4 ,any "o :o v5tures into ! l[ p>ts ( a ,m$it]ranean seaport aft] dusk g5]ally does s at 8 own risk4 ,v few brawls comm5ce among ! hot-blood$ l[] ord]s ( ! s\? )\t ! f9ale ( ! knife4 ,by f> ! mo/ int]e/+ suburb ( ! city is ,b>celoneta4 ,?is self-conta9$ t[n is entirely giv5 up to ! fi%]folk & seaf>+ portion ( ,b>celona's inhabitants4 ,philip ,v41 :5 plann+ 8 citadel1 n[ demoli%$1 turn$ out ! p :o dwelt :]e he aft]w>ds erect$ x4 ,to comp5sate !m = loss ( home & prop]ty1 he built ?is well-plann$ & well-pav$ suburb out along ! coa/ to ! nor?-ea/4 ,) ! breeze com+ 9 e aft]noon (f ! sea my fav\rite walk 0 ?r\gh ! p>k to ,b>celoneta4 ,( all ! seaports ,i "k1 ,naples n except$1 ?\gh ! ,/a4 ,lucia ( five-&-tw5ty ye>s ago might h beat5 x1 ! h>b\r front ( ,b>celoneta is )\t an equal4 ,"h "o may wat* ! boat-build]s at "w "u ! odde/ ro(s imag9able1 c>p5t]s busy ) ! %ap+ ( ma/s & o>s1 & %ip's pa9t]s putt+ ! f9i%+ t\*es to boat accessories4 ,i us$ to /& a:ile admir+ ! inv5tive turn display$ on ! ext]ior embelli%m5ts ( ! m>9e-deal]s' /ores4 ,wond]ful pictures1 ( %ips t c\ld nev] float1 f bru%es wield$ by v local tal5t 9 gl>+ v]milion & gre54 ,i wat*$ ! holiday-mak]s sitt+ 9 ram%ackle boo?s1 rapidly putt+ away all sorts ( curiosities ( ! %ell-fi% ord]1 & ,i wond]$ if !y w\ld survive ! day4 ,p]haps ! copi\s draughts ( w9e !y took 0 an antidote1 at any rate _! laught] & good hum\r gave po9t to my unspok5 ?\ght--let u eat & dr9k1 = to-morr[ we die4 ,illu/ration3 ,,b>celona4 ,,! ,,rambla ,go+ on1 ,i (t5 sp5t "s "t comp>+ ! drill ( artill]y recruits1 ^: in/ructors m>*$ !m up & d[n on a quiet bit ( ! roadway1 ) ^? at home1 & ,i g5]ally f9i%$ my walk & sat me d[n on ! glori\s /ret* ( s& t runs away nor? z f> z eye c foll[4 ,! ev5+ w\ld !n draw 91 & ! tw9kl+ lights on ! %ips 9 ! h>b\r w>n me x 0 "t to return4 ,:ile twilight la/$ ,i retrac$ my /eps homew>ds along ! quay-side1 invigorat$ by an aft]noon ( sea breeze & salt spray4 ,! focus ( ,b>celona's life is ! celebrat$ ,rambla4 ,! d]ivation ( ?is ^w is ,arabic--,raml-s&--a riv] b$1 = a small /ream at "o "t me&]$ d[n to ! sea :]e n[ is ! livelie/ /reet 9 ! nor? ( ,spa94 ,on ei!r side ( ! c5tral prom5ade1 "u ! %ade ( /ately plane trees1 are ! c>riage drives4 ,! broad walk itself is ?rong$1 especially 9 ! morn+ :5 m>ket+ is done1 ) an ev]-*ang+ cr[d4 ,boys di/ribute h&-bills1 dog-fanci]s /roll ab\t b>ga9+ ) deal]s1 it9]ant m]*ants cry _! w>es4 ,a family ( fa!r1 "m1 & *ildr5 cross ! /ream ( prom5ad]s1 foll[$ by a pet lamb4 ,acqua9tances meet & gossip away a good t5 m9utes4 ,at ! top end ( ! ,rambla are situat$ ! /alls ( ! bird-sell]s1 :o also deal 9 mice1 a great place ?is = mama & h] small daught]s4 ,l[] d[n1 ! fl[]-sell]s congregate "u _! r$-/rip$ umbrellas4 ,x 0 "h t ,i made my sket*1 9 :i* luckily1 = a bit ( col\r1 ,i 0 able to include ! blue-bl\s$ port]s 9 _! r$ caps :o wait ab\t = a job ) ! rope ( _! call+ slung ov] _! %\ld]s4 ,"h too all ! odd job m5 /& await+ hire4 ,h\se pa9t]s 9 :ite bl\ses ) insignia ( _! trade--a :itewa% bru% on ! end ( a pole--held high1 & o!rs--an endless v>iety4 ,b>celona1 be+ a bus9ess t[n1 is democratic to ! core1 x is also to ! core1 ,catalan4 ,! names ( /reets are display$ 9 ,catalan z well z ,spani%4 ,! animals 9 ! ,zoological ,g>d5s also are kn[n by _! ,catalan1 & ,ca/ilian z well z ,lat9 names6 ,b>celona w h no deal+s ) ,ca/ile1 its p speak _! own language & address ! =eign] 9 ,fr5*4 ,b>celona is g-ahead4 ,9 ! h\ses ( ! new suburbs l'art n\veau screams at "o1 & ev]y?+ is up-to-date6 ,! ,spani>d is well-kn[n to be lazy1 n s ! ,catalan4 ,i h nev] se5 a ,spani>d runn+1 b ,i h se5 a ,catalan walk+ fa/6 ,,g]ona ,! siege ( ,g]ona is z celebrat$ 9 ! ,spani% hi/ory ( ! ,napoleonic w>s z t ( ,s>agossa4 ,bo? exemplify ! brav]y & t5acity ( ! ,spani>d ( ! nor?4 ,9 ! fir/ siege 9 #ahjh1 ?ree hundr$ m5 ( ! ,ul/] ,regim5t1 "u _! gallant lead] ,o',daly1 help$ to g>rison ! place aga9/ two f]oci\s attacks by ,du*esne & 8 ,fr5* soldi]y4 ,! fir/ fail$ & ! second end$ 9 ! utt] r\t ( ! besieg]s ) ! loss ( all ! artill]y & baggage tra94 ,9 ! foll[+ ye> ?ree ,fr5* g5]als ) an army ( ?irty ?\s& m5 inve/$ ! city4 ,alv>ez1 ! ,spani% ,gov]nor1 0 almo/ )\t any means ( def5ce1 & ! wom5 ( ,g]ona enroll$ !mselves "u ! bann] ( ,santa ,b>b>a1 ! patron sa9t ( ,spa9's artill]y1 & took _! places on ! ramp>ts side by side ) _! husb&s & swee!>ts4 ,alv>ez1 ably second$ by a few ,engli% "u ,m>%all1 held out until he 0 /ruck d[n by disease & dea?4 ,! city !n1 )\t a lead]1 its inhabitants />v+1 at l5g? surr5d]$4 ,s anci5t is ,g]ona t its e>ly hi/ory is lo/ 9 ! mi/ ( ages4 ,*>lemagne drove ! ,moors out :5 !y 7 9 possession1 b x soon pass$ back into _! h&s aga94 ,! ,c\nts ( ,b>celona rul$ ov] ! place until ! union ( ,catalonia & ,aragon1 an ev5t :i* gave bir? to ! ,cr[n ,pr9ce's title ( ,pr9cipe de ,g]ona4 ,h5ce we "k t 9 ! twelf? c5tury x 0 a city ( great importance4 ,9 consequ5ce ( its adhesion1 at ! end ( ! ,w> ( ,succession1 to ! h\se ( ,hapsburg1 ,g]ona 0 depriv$ ( its privileges & univ]sity1 s9ce :i* "t x has /eadily gone d[n hill4 ,d[n hill x may h proce$$1 b ,i f\nd x a v pleasant1 qua9t old-_w city set 9 ! mid/ ( v]dant hills & runn+ wat]s4 ,%ady walks are tak+ ! place ( n[ useless =tifications2 & h n ,i sat 9 "o ( ! mo/ delightful rose g>d5s y c\ld wi% to re/ 91 & he>d ! note ( ! night+ale trill+ on ! p]fum$ air8 ,mo/ ( ,spa9 has gone d[n hill1 & mo/ ( ,spa9 is no?+ b en*ant+4 ,illu/ration3 ,,g]ona4 ,,! ,,cattle ,,m>ket ,g]ona is bisect$ by ! riv] ,oar1 & f its wat]s :i* wa% !m1 ! h\ses rise ti] above ti] up ! hill side4 ,9 ! summ] :5 ! riv] is runn+ l[1 & if x happ5s to be a ,saturday1 y w see "o ( ! mo/ rem>kable sights t ,spa9 c boa/ (4 ,"u & ar\nd ! ar*es ( ! old bridge are congregat$ hundr$s ( br[n & fawn-col\r$ cattle4 ,! backgr\nd ( anci5t h\ses1 yell[1 grey1 :ite1 br[n--e tone1 rises up above ?is ?rong4 ,col\r$ g>m5ts1 ! week's wa%+1 flutt] 9 ! breeze1 gre5 %utt]s & bl9ds hang f ! creep]-clad balconies4 ,x is m>ket day4 ,! l[+ ( ox51 m+l$ ) ! hum ( b>ga9+ humanity 9 r$ caps & ,prussian-blue bl\ses1 surges up l ! s\nd ( break]s on a di/ant %ore4 ,y :o ent] ,spa9 by ! ea/ r\te1 g to ,g]ona at ! end ( ! week--y w nev] regret its ,saturday m>ket4 ,! ,ca!dral /&s well4 ,! we/ faade1 a ,r5aissance addition1 is approa*$ f ! ,plaza bel[ by a gr& flight ( n9ety /eps 9 ?ree ti]s4 ,9 ! unf9i%$ jambs ( ! s\? door are a s]ies ( int]e/+ t]ra-cotta figures dat+ f #adeh4 ,!re is no?+ else 9 ! ext]ior wor?y ( note1 b directly ,i ent]$ ,i /opp$ 9 amazem5t at ! d>+ ( an ar*itect :o c\ld build s enorm\s a span z t "u :i* ,i f\nd myself4 ,?is span is sev5ty-?ree feet1 ! cle> wid? ( ! nave1 & unsupport$ by any pill>s4 ,no fly+ buttresses outside give additional /r5g? to ! ?ru/ ( ! ro(4 ,! /onework is p]fect & ! vault+ inside simple4 ,s bold & haz>d\s 7 ! plans ( ,guill]mo ,b(fy t ! *apt] at fir/ refus$ to sanction !m4 ,be+ 9 d\bts z to 8 sanity1 !y s\ght ! op9ion ( twelve o!r ar*itects1 :o 7 exam9$ sep>ately4 ,z !y all approv$ & pass$ ,b(fy's plans1 ! con/ruction ( ?is m>vel 0 comm5c$1 & ! fir/ /one laid 9 #adaf4 ,! apsidal *ancel _h be5 begun a c5tury e>li] & f9i%$ 9 #acdf1 pretty mu* on ! same l9es z ?is "p ( ,b>celona's ,ca!dral4 ,un=tunately--h[ (t5 does "o h to ackn[l$ge ?is6--! coro1 ) its hide\s respaldos1 pa9t$ to imitate ,go?ic ar*es 9 p]spective1 almo/ ru9s ?is spl5did & solemn int]ior4 ,among ! seats ( ! sill]ia del coro !re are /ill pres]v$ "s t date f ! f\rte5? c5tury4 ,e>ly c>v$ "w ( ! same p]iod is f\nd 9 ! elaborate retablo ov] ! ,high ,alt>1 :i* is surm\nt$ by ?ree f9e processional crosses4 ,! baldaqu9o1 also ( wood1 is cov]$ l ! retablo ) plates ( silv]4 ,x is a mass ( preci\s metal1 enamell$ coats-(-arms & gems1 & is an extremely int]e/+ relic ( t c5tury4 ,illu/ration3 ,,g]ona4 ,,! ,,ca!dral ,ov] ! sacri/y door are ! tombs ( ,c\nt ,ramon ,b]5gu] ,,ii4 & 8 wife ,erm5s5dis1 :o di$ 9 #ajeh1 pr$eceas+ h] husb& by tw5ty-f\r ye>s4 ,! sacri/y itself conta9s a rem>kable piece ( twelf?-c5tury crewel "w1 said to be ! e>lie/ kn[n specim5 9 exi/5ce4 ,x is cov]$ ) figures ( a type simil> to ^? ( contempor>y ,,mss4 ,! ,romanesque cloi/]s =m an irregul> trapezium4 ,! columns are d\bl$ & ab\t a foot ap>t1 n unlike ^? ( ,t>ragona4 ,! f9e/ ,romanesque example t ,g]ona possesses is ! *ur* ( ,san ,p$ro de los ,galligans4 ,! apse1 little damag$ dur+ ! siege1 =ms a t[] 9 ! t[n wall4 ,!re is no d\bt ( ! great antiquity ( ?is build+1 :i* dates probably f ! e>ly "p ( ! t5? c5tury4 ,! ea/ end is mo/ly con/ruct$ ( black volcanic scori4 ,! nave & aisles1 ! bays ( :i* are v simply built1 are almo/ prehi/oric 9 _! r\ghness4 ,9 ! cloi/]s atta*$ to ! *ur* is ! ,museo ,prov9cial4 ,_m relics ( ,g]ona's h]oic def5ce c "h be se51 z well z "s e>ly ,*ri/ian & ,hebrew rema9s4 ,,tol$o ,/&+ high above ! yell[ ,tagus1 :i*1 conf9$ 9 a deep gorge1 ru%es & swirls f> bel[ betwe5 precipit\s granite cliffs1 ,tol$o 0 always an ideal position = a =tress be=e mod]n fire>ms r5d]$ ,nature's def5ces ( little avail4 ,its "n is associat$ ) ! great ,c>d9als ( ! ,rodrigo1 ,t5orio1 & ,foncesca families1 z well z scions ( ! h\ses ( ,xim5es1 ,m5doza1 ,tav]a1 & ,lor5zana4 ,! weal? ( ^! ,prelates 0 imm5se1 & _! p[]1 ,ecclesia/ical & ,temporal1 proportionate4 ,!y practically _h no rivals1 !y c]ta9ly fe>$ none1 !y rul$ k+s z well z c\ntries1 & _! allegiance to ,rome 0 purely nom9al4 ,!y made w>s & f\ght 9 !m4 ,= _! patronage ( art & lit]ature future g5]ations h _h good cause to be grateful4 ,!y built s*ools & improv$ ! means ( communication ?r\gh\t ! l&4 ,"u _! influ5ce ! ,*ur* 0 omnipot5t1 & !y h writt5 _! names deep 9 ! pages ( ,spani% hi/ory4 ,9 fact1 s great 0 ! p[] ( ,tol$o's cl]gy t x grew to be ! cause ( ! f\ndation ( ! ,capital at ,madrid4 ,philip ,,ii41 :o remov$ ! ,c\rt f ,valladolid to ,tol$o1 f\nd x bett]1 aft] a %ort resid5ce "h1 to take himself & 8 ,c\rt to a t[n :]e he no long] enc\nt]$ ! arrogance ( ,ecclesia/ical rule4 ,"u ! ,romans1 :o captur$ x 9 #aic ,b4,c41 ,toletum became ! capital ( ,hispania4 ,leovigild remov$ hi!r f ,seville1 & 8 successor1 ,recc>$1 :o embrac$ ! or?odox =m ( ,*ri/ianity1 made x ! ecclesia/ical z well z political capital ( 8 dom9ions4 ,= ne>ly f\r c5turies1 f #gab1 :5 ! ,moors took ,tol$o1 x 0 "u _! rule2 b divid$ c\nsels & ! trea*]y ( ! d[n-trodd5 ,hebrew enabl$ ,alfonso ,,vi4 to ent] 9 triumph ) ! ,cid4 ,! ,k+ !n /yl$ himself ,emp]or1 & promot$ ! ,ar*bi%op to ! ,primacy ( ,spa94 ,"u ,alfonso's rule ! city grew rapidly 9 e way4 ,*ur*es & conv5ts 7 built1 def5ces /r5g!n$1 & ,tol$o knew no rival4 ,) f>-see+ wisdom1 ,moor & ,*ri/ian 7 all[$ to int]m>ry1 & liv$ toge!r 9 peace = wellnigh "o hundr$ & fifty ye>s4 ,! adv5t 9 #abbg ( t ecclesia/ical firebr&1 ,/4 ,f]d9&1 h[ev]1 alt]$ ?is4 ,"o ( 8 fir/ acts 0 to pull d[n ! ,mosque1 :]e9 ! ,moors ( ! city1 by ,alfonso's royal pr]ogative1 _h be5 all[$ to wor%ip1 & comm5ce ! build+ on its site ( ! great ,ca!dral4 ,illu/ration3 ,,tol$o4 ,,! ,,ca!dral ,= two hundr$ ye>s & m did ! ar*itects :o foll[$ ,p$ro ,p]ez add bit by bit1 leav+ _! m>k on its /ones4 ,p>tly con/ruct$ ( granite x is imm5sely /rong4 ,a s(t] /one has be5 us$ ) great discretion 9 ! decorative portions ( ! build+4 ,no compreh5sive view ( ! ,ca!dral is obta9able1 s closely d ! h\ses surr\nd x on ! s\? & ea/1 & creep up ! hill on :i* x is built1 on ! nor?4 ,! we/ front is be/ se5 f ! ,plaza ,ayuntami5to1 a pleasant little g>d5 :i* ! ,t[n ,hall b\nds on "o side4 ,i manag$ a sket* f ! n>r[ /reet bel[ ?is g>d54 ,only "o ( ! two t[]s ( ! we/ faade is f9i%$ z orig9ally int5d$4 ,! o!r is capp$ by a dome1 design$ by ,el ,greco1 t pa9t] ( ! weird1 & "u :i* is ! *apel :]e9 ! ,mozrabic ritual is celebrat$ daily at #i ,a4,m4 ,! great we/ door1 ,la ,pu]ta del ,p]don1 is enri*$ ) emboss$ bronze "w4 ,flank+ on x ei!r side are ! doors ( ,las ,palmas1 & de los ,escribanos4 ,! ar*es ( all ?ree h figures 9 ! jambs1 :i* are cont9u$ r\nd ea* ar* 9 ! v be/ ,go?ic ( ! fifte5? c5tury4 ,above ! doors ! faade is adorn$ ) a sculptur$ ,la/ ,supp] & colossal figures 9 ni*es4 ,9 ! c5tre is a spl5did rose w9d[ tw5ty-eight feet 9 diamet]4 ,! nor? transept is ent]$ f ! /eep ,calle de la ,*ap9]ia by ,la ,pu]ta del ,reloj1 ! olde/ doorway ( ! ,ca!dral4 ,its bronze doors1 ( lat] date ?an ! doorway1 7 ca/ to mat* ^? ( ,la ,pu]ta de los ,leones 9 ! s\? transept4 ,?is doorway's "n is d]iv$ f ! ,lions1 :i* hold+ %ields1 occupy positions on its pill>s4 ,ano!r entrance is ?r\gh ,la ,pu]ta de la ,pres5tacion :i* op5s on ! cloi/]s4 ,! effect produc$ by ! magnific5t int]ior is mu* enhanc$ by ! beauty ( ! glass :i* fills mo/ ( ! w9d[s4 ,! e>lie/ are on ! nor? side ( ! nave1 & =m a s]ies :i* 0 comm5c$ 9 #adah & f9i%$ "o hundr$ & fifty ye>s lat]4 ,! glass 9 ! rose w9d[ ov] ! we/ door is sup]b1 & ! same may be said = t 9 ! nor? transept & ! :eel w9d[ ov] ,la ,pu]ta de los ,leones4 ,!re is no tri=ium1 & ! transepts d n project beyond ! nave4 ,! ar*es ( ! v beautiful *ancel s]ve z ni*es = figures4 ,"h 9 ea* bay is a rose w9d[ =m+ a cl]e/ory1 & ! col\rs 9 ! glass ( ^! %9e l jewels 9 a cr[n4 ,illu/ration3 ,,tol$o4 ,,! ,,s\? ,,transept ,!re are 9 all tw5ty *apels1 e "o ( :i* conta9s some?+ wor? /udy4 ,! l(ty retablo 9 ! ,capilla ,mayor is ( ! ri*e/ ,go?ic4 ,above is a colossal ,calv>y ( lat] workman%ip4 ,c>d9al ,xim5es built ?is *apel1 among ! _m monum5ts ( :i* are ! tombs ( ,spa9's e>lie/ k+s4 ,sep>at+ x f ! cruc]o is a magnific5t ,plat]esque reja1 on ei!r side ( :i* /&s a gild$ pulpit4 ,beh9d ! retablo is ! transp>5te1 mu* admir$ by ,tol$ans1 b ! "o j>r+ note 9 ! f9e/ ( ,spa9's ,ca!drals4 ,?is !atrical mass ( m>ble figures1 9 ! mid/ ( :i* ! ,ar*angel ,rafael kicks 8 feet high 9 ! air & squeezes a gold fi% 9 "o h&6 is lit f a w9d[ let into ! ro( ( ! apse4 ,! ,capilla de ,reyes ,nuevos conta9s ! tombs ( ! k+s desc5d$ f ,h5ry ,,ii4 ,8 tomb & t ( 8 wife1 z well z ! sp\se ( ,h5ry ,,iii41 a daught] ( ,john ( ,gaunt ,duke ( ,lanca/]1 are among ! _m t cr[d ! walls4 ,! ,capilla de ,san ,ildefonso is an extremely beautiful example ( e>ly ,go?ic "w4 ,! mu*-mutilat$ tomb 9 ! c5tre ( ,c>d9al ,albornoz is a ma/]piece ( ! same /yle4 ,_m o!r great ,ecclesia/ics re/ 9 ?is elegant octagon1 notably ,inigo de ,m5doza1 ,vic]oy ( ,s>d9ia1 :o 0 kill$ at ! siege ( ,granada4 ,! ,capilla de ,santiago 0 erect$ 9 #adce by ,alv>o de ,luna1 ! man :o sav$ ,spa9 = ,juan ,,ii4 by repress+ ! turbul5t nobles1 & :o = 8 fidelity 0 rew>d$ by disgrace & execution 9 ! ,plaza ,mayor at ,valladolid4 ,! scallop %ells :i* decorate ! walls repres5t de ,luna's (fice ( ,gr& ,ma/] ( ! ,ord] ( ,santiago4 ,c>d9al ,xim5es re-e/abli%$ ! ,mozrabic ,ritual1 :i* is celebrat$ 9 ! ,capilla ,mozrabe1 z a rem9d] to ! ,pope t ,spa9 did n owe implicit allegiance to ,rome4 ,! small deta*$ ,capilla de la ,desc5sion de ,nue/ra ,seora /&s aga9/ ! second pi] 9 ! nor? aisle4 ,x m>ks ! spot :]e ! ,virg9 came d[n & pres5t$ ,san ,ildefonso ) ! casulla or *ausable4 ,! ,salle ,capitul> is a gr& example ( e>ly sixte5?-c5tury "w1 ) a ,plat]esque frieze & gilt artesonado ceil+ by ,francisco de ,l>a4 ,x conta9s a s]ies ( portraits ( ! ,c>d9al ,ar*bi%ops ( ,tol$o1 & frescoes by ,juan de ,borgoa4 ,! "w ( ?is pa9t] is to be met ) ?r\gh\t ! ,ca!dral4 ,! coro occupies two bays ( ! nave & is a v]itable museum ( c>v+ & sculpture4 ,its sill]ia are 9 two r[s4 ,! l[] is ( walnut & enri*$ ) sc5es repres5t+ ! campaigns ( ,f]d9& & ,isabella4 ,! upp] ( ! same wood is a p]fect classical contra/ & is inlaid n c>v$4 ,b]ruguete1 ^: "w may be be/ /udi$ 9 ,valladolid1 execut$ ! seats on ! s\? side1 & ,vig>ney ^? on ! nor?4 ,a small figure ( ! ,virg9 9 black5$ /one looks really anci5t4 ,x /&s 9 ! middle ( ! coro on a p$e/al4 ,nicolas de ,v]g>a 0 responsible = ! two read+ desks1 :i* are ma/]pieces ( gild$ metal "w4 ,! ,go?ic cloi/]s enclose a delightful g>d51 & h an upp] cloi/] rea*$ by a door 9 ! ,ar*bi%op's ,palace4 ,f ?is pleasant clau/ro alto a v good idea ( ! size ( ! ,ca!dral is obta9$4 ,space does n p]mit me to enl>ge on ! manifold works ( art :i* ?is noble build+ conta9s4 ,! pictures1 ! iron "w--?\gh ,i mu/ j m5tion a beautifully fanciful knock] ( two nude nymphs hang+ d[nw>ds f ! head ( a satyr ^: h&s clasp$ toge!r =m ! h&le1 :i* adorns ,la ,pu]ta de la ,pres5tacion--! sculpture1 notably t on ! respaldo1 or out] wall ( ! coro1 & ! _m relics 9 ! ,treasury1 w\ld all occupy m ?an ,i c af=d4 ,suffice x to say t n[h]e 9 ,spa9 is !re a ,go?ic build+ ( su* well-proportion$ dim5sions1 su* simplicity 9 its lead+ features1 su* a f9e idea 9 ! int]ior ( ! spac+ out ( light & %ade1 z 9 ?is magnific5t ,ca!dral--! gr&e/ ( ! ?ree due to ,fr5* influ5ce4 ,& ,tol$o's *ur*es8 ,!re are ne>ly sixty /ill rema9+1 e /reet seems to conta9 "o6 ,& ,tol$o's conv5ts8 ,!re are almo/ z _m4 ,( ! =m]1 ,san ,juan de los ,reyes1 on ! high gr\nd above ! bridge ( ,sa9t ,m>t91 ! la/ remnant left ( a once weal?y ,franciscan conv5t1 0 built by ,c>d9al ,xim5es 9 commemoration ( ! ,ca?olic ,k+s victory ( ,toro4 ,on its out] walls /ill hang ! manacles & *a9s ( ! captive ,*ri/ians :o 7 set free at ! conque/ ( ,granada1 & ! int]ior is embelli%$ ) ! arms ( ,f]d9& & ,isabella1 & cov]$ ) sculptur$ h]aldry4 ,illu/ration3 ,,tol$o4 ,,! ,z,,codov] ,santa ,m>ia la ,blanca1 orig9ally a ,jewi% synagogue1 is 9 ! ,mudj> /yle1 & has "s *>m+ arabesques1 ) a f9e c$> ceil+ said to be ( wood f ! trees at ,lebanon4 ,almo/ opposite--we are 9 ! ,jud]ia1 or ,jews' qu>t]1 to ! s\?-ea/ ( ,san ,juan de los ,reyes--is ano!r synagogue1 el ,transito4 ,built 9 #acff by ,samuel ,levi1 ,p$ro ! ,cruel's treasur]1 9 ! ,moori% /yle1 x is almo/ a bett] piece ( ar*itecture ?an ,santa ,m>ia la ,blanca4 ,levi liv$ next door1 9 ! h\se kn[n n[ z ,la ,casa del ,greco1 t pa9t] hav+ occupi$ x dur+ 8 resid5ce 9 ,tol$o4 ,! h\se & synagogue are connect$ by a secret passage f ! vaults ( ! =m]4 ,^! are ( imm5se size & /r5g?1 & 9 ,levi's day held an enorm\s am\nt ( treasure--too mu* = ! poor man's good4 ,8 royal ma/]1 :5 suffici5t 0 accumulat$1 put him to dea? & appropriat$ all he c\ld f9d4 ,el ,cri/o de la ,luz1 "o ( ! mo/ int]e/+ *ur*es 9 ,tol$o1 0 orig9ally a t9y mosque4 ,x is divid$ into n9e diff]5t comp>tm5ts by f\r columns1 f ! capitals ( :i* spr+ sixte5 ar*es4 ,x 0 "h t ,alfonso ,,vi4 att5d$ ! fir/ ,mass aft] ! city 0 captur$4 ,close by is ! ,conv5t ( ,san ,dom+o el ,real1 :]e a glimpse may be _h ( picturesque nuns :ile at _! devotions dur+ e>ly s]vice4 ,z ! /ation 'bus rattl$ up ! /eep w9d+ asc5t to ! ,despa*o ,c5tral we da%$ ?r\gh ! ,zocodovr1 ! squ>e celebrat$ = num]\s auto de fs & o!r executions4 ,all day long x is cr[d$ ) saunt]+ folk1 :o walk up & d[n1 quietly en\gh n[1 on ! sc5e ( mu* =m] cruelty1 blood%$1 & _m bull-fights4 ,on its ea/]n side a f9e ,moori% ar* leads d[n ! hill by a footpa? to ! ,bridge ( ,alcnt>a4 ,imm$iately ! ar* is pass$ on ! left lies ! old ,hospital de ,santa ,cruz4 ,x is "o ( ! be/ examples ( ! ,transition to ,r5aissance 9 ,spa94 ,! portal is deeply und]cut & elaborately c>v$ 9 s(t :ite rose /one & m>ble4 ,! inn] gate is plat]esque & only surpass$ by ,san ,m>cos at ,leon & ! gateway ( ! univ]sity at ,salamanca4 ,c>d9al ,m5doza's arms adorn ! beautiful patio1 :i* has a d\ble arcade ( great elegance1 & ! /one "w on ! balu/rade ( ! /aircase lead+ out ( ?is is v f9e4 ,opposite1 on ! o!r side ( ?is /eep desc5t1 are ! ,milit>y ,gov]nor's qu>t]s :i* are dom9at$ by ! huge ,alcz>1 n[ ! ,milit>y ,academy = ,infantry ,cadets4 ,de/roy$ by fire 9 #ahhf1 ! pres5t edifice1 rebuilt soon aft]1 is se5 9 ! illu/ration ( ! ,alcnt>a ,bridge ris+ a great squ>e mass on ! top ( ! hill4 ,x 0 ! =tress & palace ( ,moori% days4 ,alv>o de ,luna _h a %>e 9 its alt]ation & ,h]r]a complet$ x to ! pres5t size by additions execut$ = ,philip ,,ii4 ,_m a "t has x be5 sack$ by ! conqu]ors ( ,tol$o & _m a prison] ( note pass$ 8 la/ h\rs )9 its gloomy walls1 be=e be+ l$ out to dea? 9 ! ,zocodovr4 ,illu/ration3 ,,tol$o4 ,,! ,,alc,,nt>a ,,bridge ,bo? ,tol$o's bridges are magnific5t4 ,! ,alcnt>a1 cross$ on ! way f ! /ation1 has b a c\ple ( ar*es :i* span ! mighty riv] at a great height4 ,x is def5d$ by a gateway at ei!r end1 t on ! inn] side be+ ! ,moori% ,t[] 9 my sket*4 ,! ,bridge ( ,sa9t ,m>t9 has "o ar* ( enorm\s span ) f\r small]1 :i* c>ry x ov] ! ru%+ ,tagus4 ,betwe5 ^! two bridges f ! opposite bank ( ! riv] "o gets ! be/ idea ( ,tol$o's /r5g?4 ,no?+ 9 ,spa9 surpasses ! grim maje/y ( ! city1 :i* rises above ! sun-bak$ & w9d-bli/]$ crags t =m ! gorge bel[ ?r\gh :i* ! riv] has cut its way4 ,no spot c\ld h be5 bett] *os5 = def5ce ?an ! hill enclos$ 9 ?is horse%oe ( mad wat]s4 ,small wond] t )9 its encircl+ walls grew up a race ( ,prelates ^: rule spread f> beyond ! bord]s ( ,ca/ile1 & ^: p[]ful h& 0 felt 9 c\ntries ( an ali5 tongue4 ,( ! eight city gates ! mo/ int]e/+ is ! ,pu]ta del ,sol1 a ,moori% /ructure ) two t[]s on ei!r side ( a horse%oe ar*4 ,x is close to ! little *ur* ( el ,cri/o de la ,luz1 & f ei!r ( ! t[]s a v good idea is obta9$ ( ,tol$o's def5ces4 ,ne> ! ,pu]ta del ,cambon1 ano!r ( ! gates1 is ! site ( ! old palace ( ! la/ ( ! ,spani% ,go?s1 ,rod]ic1 :o lo/ 8 life on ! banks ( ! ,guadalete ne> ,cadiz :5 giv+ battle to ,t>ik & 8 ,b]b]s4 ,my :ole impression ( ,tol$o 0 t ( a city ( gloom4 ,its l>g] h\ses 7 =bidd+ 9 ! extreme4 ,9 ^! a huge portal1 ) armorial be>+s & massive pill>s1 def5d$ by a /\t iron-b\nd door1 op5s into a d>k por*1 f :i* "o ent]s ! patio ?r\gh an equally /rong entrance4 ,! w9d[s t look on to ! /reet are heavily b>r$ & none are )9 rea* ( ! p$e/rian4 ,its /reets1 too n>r[ & /eep = vehicul> traffic1 are z sil5t z ! grave 7mo/ ,spani>ds we> %oes made ( esp>to grass or s(t lea!r71 save :5 a "y cadet f ! ,alcz> passes along rattl+ 8 sword1 & attracts ! att5tion ( ! seoritas :o sit high up 9 ^? inaccessible balconies4 ,built on ! ,moori% plan1 ^! tortu\s ?or\ghf>es twi/ & turn l a maze1 & x seem$ to me t ! sun nev] ent]$ !m4 ,h\ses & /reets1 walls & t[]s1 /ill rema9 z !y 7 9 ! great ,c>d9al's days1 & /&1 ev5 n[1 z symbols ( ! iron rule ( ! ,*ur*4 ,! ,c>d9al's hat is to be f\nd grav$ 9 /one ov] _m a door1 & ! ,%eaf ( ,arr[s1 ! arms ( ! ,ca?olic ,k+s1 is /ill to be se5 ov] ! entrance ( :at 0 once ! palace ( ,p$ro ! ,cruel4 ,tol$o blades are /ill made & prov$ 9 ! ugly factory a mile outside ! city4 ,tol$o w>e 7made 9 ,g]many7 is sold by mo/ ( ! %ops4 ,! gr[+ trade 9 liquorice is a mod]n indu/ry1 b if x 7 n = ano!r rec5t innovation1 ! ,milit>y ,academy1 x w\ld take no /ret* ( ! imag9ation to c>ry "o back aga9 into ! ,middle ,ages & to s9k "o's individuality & become a human atom "u ! rule ( ! great ,*ur*4 ,,salamanca ,be=e ,i ev] ?\ght t ,fate w\ld take me to ,spa91 ,i _h =m$ 9 my m9d1 z "o is apt to d1 a ,spa9 ( my own1 a ,spa9 ( glori\s romance4 ,i _h be5 9 _m cities ?r\gh\t ! c\ntry1 b x 0 n until ,i rea*$ ,salamanca t1 ,surely1 ?\ght ,i1 ! ,spa9 ( my imag9ation is n[ realis$4 ,"h 9 ! middle ( ! pla91 ) :i* "o's ?\ghts are someh[ famili>1 rises ! great ,ca!dral1 its t[]s are l&m>ks = miles r\nd4 ,"h is a beautiful riv] w9d+ ?r\gh valleys deep cut 9 ! o*re-col\r$ soil1 its banks are clad ) v]dure & x is spann$ by an anci5t bridge4 ,away ov] ! pla91 j visible 9 ! haze1 are ! blue m\nta9s ( ! s\?4 ,9 ! mid/ ( all1 ! dull mud & yell[ walls ( ! city1 ! _m-hu$ ro(s ( r$ & br[n1 ) deep %ad[s "u _! eaves1 rise ti] above ti] to ! ,ca!dral above4 ,& ?is1 ! prototype ( ,spa9's greatness1 h] ,*ur*1 ! ev]-pres5t rem9d] t 9 days gone by its pr9ces l$ h] armies to victory & plac$ h] 9 ! van ( nations4 ,i am /&+ on ! noble bridge1 half ( :i* is ev5 n[ z x 0 9 ! days ( ! ,roman occupation4 ,^? massive walls up !re ( mona/]ies & conv5ts always =m$ "p ( ! picture ( my imag9ation4 ,!y bake "u a ,septemb] sun1 j z all ,spa9 ought to d4 ,a long /r+ ( heavily lad5 mules trots pa/1 _! bells j+l+ m]rily1 _! driv]s %\t+ & crack+ _! :ips4 ,a well set-up peasant ) 8 head 9 a h&k]*ief & broad-brimm$ hat1 cut-away tunic1 r$ sa% & tight knee bree*es1 cant]s by seat$ on a high peak$ saddle4 ,8 well-br$ horse %[s a good deal ( ! ,arab /ra91 across its qu>t]s are a c\ple ( rugs & its rid] c>ries an umbrella4 ,a begg> /ops be=e me1 & prays t1 = ! love ( ! ,holy ,m>y1 ,i w give him a p]ro *ico4 ,two wiz5$ old cronies g by *att]+ ab\t ,manuelo's wife4 ,"o c>ries a c\ple ( f[ls ti$ toge!r by _! legs1 ! poor birds are do+ _! be/ to hold _! heads 9 a natural position4 ,"s little ur*9s are ?r[+ /ones at ! wa%]wom5 by ! riv]side bel[4 ,an old man seat$ on a donkey's rump ambles pa/4 ,yes1 ?is is :at ,i imag9$ ,spa9 to be4 ,i turn my /eps t[>ds ! city4 ,i w&] by ! ,ca!dral & rea* ! great univ]sity ( ! middle ages4 ,:at w\ld ,salamanca h be5 )\t its univ]sity6 ,i pass _m f9e h\ses1 ) coats-(-arms emblazon$ ov] _! portals4 ,i gaze at _! high walls & w9d[s b>r$ to keep ! intrud] f ! fair sex4 ,mo/ ( !m seem fall+ into decay1 b ?is only adds to ! romance4 ,at l5g? ,i rea* an arcad$ squ>e4 ,! columns ( ! arcades are wood51 !y are at all sorts ( angles1 b ! h\ses above /ill /&4 ,! sun blazes d[n on scores ( picturesque m>ket folk1 :o sell almo/ ev]y?+ f pea*es & f[ls to little t9sel images & d\ble-prong$ hoes4 ,dogs are sniff+ ab\t pick+ up /ray scraps4 ,*ildr5 run 9 & out1 fall d[n & get up laugh+4 ,e "o is busy4 ,! animation ( ?is little squ>e1 z ,i sudd5ly come ^u x out ( a deeply %ad$ & ari/ocratic /reet1 is j ! ,spa9 ,i _h always ?\ght (--a ,spa9 ( contra/s4 ,brilliant sun & grateful %ade4 ,seclusion beh9d high walls1 & a /range m$ley ( noisy folk1 = ev] b>ga9+1 buy+ & sell+4 ,c]ta9ly 9 ,salamanca x is all "h4 ,i he> ! click ( ! ca/anets & ! s\nd ( ! guit> 9 ! ev5+1 ,i see ! ard5t lov] /&+ at ^? iron b>s :isp]+ s(t raptures to 8 mi/ress1 & ! picture is complete4 ,illu/ration3 ,,salamanca ,salamanca is a sleepy old city :i* ! _w seems to h left beh9d4 ,9 ! summ] x is a v]itable furnace1 9 ! w9t] x is swept by icy bla/s4 ,be=e ! ,*ri/ian era x 0 kn[n z ,salmantica4 ,hannibal came & captur$ x 9 ,b4,c4 #bdg & "u ! ,romans x 0 ! n9? milit>y /ation on ! great road :i* !y built connect+ ,cadiz & ,m]ida ) ,a/orga & ,gijn4 ,alfonso ,,ix4 ( ,leon f\nd$ ! univ]sity1 :i* rea*$ its z5i? z a seat ( le>n+ dur+ ! sixte5? c5tury4 ,philip ,,ii41 hav+ transf]r$ 8 ,c\rt f ,valladolid to ,tol$o1 made ,salamanca's bi%op suffragan to t city's1 s9ce :5 x seems to h be5 left out 9 ! cold & sl[ly b surely proce$$ d[n hill4 ,?is is ! reason1 ,i ?9k1 :y x attract$ me s mu*4 ,x is ess5tially a city ) a ,pa/ & ( ! ,pa/4 ,! ,fr5* "u ,?ibaut pull$ x to pieces & us$ ! mat]ial f its demoli%$ build+s to =tify ! place4 ,?is 0 9 #ahaa4 ,! foll[+ ye> saw ,m>mont's troops utt]ly r\t$ by ,well+ton1 ?ree miles s\? ( ! =tifications4 ,x 0 ?is victory t ga9$ him 8 ,m>quisate & a grant f ,p>liam5t ( #ajj1jjj4 ,l ,s>agossa1 ,salamanca possesses two ,ca!drals4 ,! old] int5sely int]e/+ 9 e way1 ! lat]1 a huge late ,go?ic pile begun 9 #aeac & f9i%$ 9 #agcc4 ,?is imm5se /ructure af=ds a good /udy ( ! *anges ( ar*itectural ta/e spread ov] ! ye>s :i* int]v5$ betwe5 ^! two dates4 ,illu/ration3 ,,salamanca4 ,,! ,,old ,,ca!dral ,! we/ faade is a m>vel ( intricate sculpture 9 ! ri*ly-col\r$ s(t /one t has be5 us$ z if x 7 pla/] or wax4 ,late ,go?ic pr$om9ates amid/ a deal ( ,plat]esque & ,b>roque ornam5t4 ,despite its incongruities x is extremely f9e1 b w\ld look ev5 bett] if "s ( ! num]\s ni*es _h n lo/ _! /atues1 & if little boys did n f9d a pa/ime 9 lodg+ /ones among/ ^? t are left1 greatly ,i fe> to _! detrim5t4 ,ov] ! d\ble doorway are high reliefs ( ! ,nativity & ,adoration ( ! ,magi1 a negro pr9ce be+ an especially good figure 9 ! latt] subject4 ,above is a ,crucifixion4 ,! nor? por* is also v f9e & ga9s 9 effect1 z inde$ does ! :ole ( ?is side ( ! ,ca!dral1 by ! rais$ piazza on :i* x is built4 ,! approa* is up "s doz5 /eps1 ! :ole ( ! piazza be+ surr\nd$ by pill>s z at ,leon & ,seville4 ,juan ,gil de ,hontaon1 :o design$ ?is & ! si/] ,ca!dral at ,segovia1 surpass$ himself ) ! ,great ,t[] & its f9ely-proportion$ dome1 ! top ( :i* is #cfj feet high4 ,! crocket$ p9nacles1 ! fly+ buttresses1 ! dome ov] ! cross+1 & ! wond]ful deep yell[ ( ?is huge *ur*1 :atev] may be "o's op9ion ab\t ! ar*itecture1 make x "o ( ! mo/ impressive ( ,spa9's ,ca!drals4 ,i 0 disappo9t$ ) ! int]ior on fir/ acqua9tance1 b x has only to be kn[n to be appreciat$4 ,! impos+ proportions1 x is #cdj feet long1 #aeh feet wide & close on #ajj feet high1 gradually ass]t$ !mselves1 & be=e ,i left ,salamanca ,i 0 mu* 9 love ) ,hontaon's ma/]piece4 ,a pi]c$ balu/rade takes ! place ( a tri=ium1 flamboyant ,r5aissance 9 ! aisles & classical 9 nave4 ,x runs r\nd ! :ole *ur* & 9 ! transepts & *oir ^! two occur toge!r4 ,m$allions 9 ! sp&rils ( ! ar*es add to ! ri* effect4 ,_m details 9 ?is int]ior ,i f\nd to be wor? a second & ?ird visit4 ,! ,*apel ( ,dorado1 a v]itable museum1 conta9s ! tomb ( ! build]1 ,fransico de ,pal5zuela4 ,its walls are cov]$ ) a pr(usion ( col\r$ sa9ts on gilt p$e/als4 ,!re is a v curi\s old organ1 /&+ at ! back ( an also curi\s old m9/rel's gall]y4 ,a sad-look+ skeleton1 ) ,mem5to ,mori cut on a slab at 8 feet1 occupies a d>k hole 9 "o ( ! walls4 ,f9e azulejos decorate ! *apel1 & _m o!r antiquities too1 :i* ,i _c enum]ate4 ,9 ! ,capilla del ,c>m5 re/ ! rema9s ( ,g]m9o1 ! ,cid's bi%op & confessor4 ,an anci5t wood5 crucifix /&s ov] ! alt>1 x is ! id5tical "o c>ri$ by ! bi%op 9 ! w>s ( ! ,cid4 ,ano!r relic ( ! great ,campeador is to be se5 9 ! ,relic>io4 ,a small ,byzant9e bronze1 el ,crucifijo de las ,batallas1 /udd$ ) *equ] "w--a f9e specim5 ( e>ly ,limoges enamel4 ,all ?is int]e/$ me mu*ly1 b ! ,cat$ral ,vieja1 a gr& example ( late ,romanesque /yle1 int]e/$ me m4 ,=tis ,salmantica1 z x 0 call$1 on acc\nt ( ! ?ickness ( its walls1 has n be5 us$ = s]vice s9ce its huge neighb\r 0 erect$4 ,i made a draw+ ( ! only view :i* c be obta9$ ( ! ext]ior f ! ,plazuela *ica4 ,! c5tral lant]n is surm\nt$ by ! emblem ( nobility1 a cock1 & is =m$ by an octagonal t[] ) a /one dome4 ,! t[] is arcad$ & has f\r dom$ turrets & dorm]s at ! corn]s simil> to ^? at ,zamora4 ,/reet consid]s t he has nev] se5 any c5tral lant]n m ?or\ghly good & effective f e po9t ( view ?an ?is is4 ,to rea* ! int]ior "o has to retrace "o's /eps to ! ,cat$ral ,nueva & f its s\? aisle pass ?r\gh a doorway into ! o!r build+4 ,?is 0 erect$ on a l[] level ?an its big neighb\r & ) ! att5dant v]g] ,i desc5d$ t5 /eps & f\nd myself 9 a v beautiful mell[-col\r$ *ur*4 ,! ar*es ( ! nave & aisles are po9t$1 b ! w9d[s & arcad+ are r\nd4 ,! capitals ( ! columns are a museum ( c>v$ fantasies1 imps1 animals1 birds1 c4 ,on ! wall ( ! nor? aisle1 :i* 0 p>tly demoli%$ :5 ! ,cat$ral ,nueva 0 built1 are "s v curi\s frescoes2 ! *ur* has a cl]e/ory ( s+le lights b no tri=ium4 ,!re is a wond]ful retablo 9 ! ,capilla ,mayor by an ,italian1 ,nicolas ,flor5t9o4 ,x is /ill 9 p]fect pres]vation1 & ! fifty-five frescoes set 9 :ite & gold ( :i* x is compos$ h a beautiful effect 9 ! semi-gloom ( ! d>k *apel4 ,! ,mozrabic ,ritual is celebrat$ six times a ye> 9 ano!r *apel1 ,la ,capilla de ,talav]a4 ,! gro9+ ( its ro( is ! only "o ( ! sort ,i h se51 x is compos$ ( p>allel ribs :i* cross "o ano!r4 ,9 ! ,capilla de ,san ,b>tolom lies ,bi%op ,diego de ,anaya4 ,8 tomb is surr\nd$ by "o ( ! f9e/ examples ( wr\ght & hamm]$ iron "w 9 ! :ole ( ,spa94 ,"s o!r memb]s ( ?is family are also int]r$ 9 ! *apel1 :i* conta9s a m$ival organ cov]$ by a scre5 ( col\r$ ,moori% arabesques4 ,illu/ration3 ,,salamanca4 ,,an ,,old ,,/reet4 ,! cloi/]s 7 built 9 #aagj1 b h be5 p>tly mod]nis$ & totally disfigur$ by a coat ( :itewa%4 ,an unc>$-= g>d5 fill$ ) rubbi% occupies ! c5tre4 ,surely "s "o might be f\nd to t5d ?is little seclud$ pat* ( quietness & make x a place = delightful repose in/ead ( ! disgrace x n[ is6 ,be=e ! ,fr5* occupation ,salamanca 0 a city ( *ur*es & mona/ic build+s4 ,to build _! =tifications !y de/roy$ ?irte5 conv5ts & tw5ty colleges besides _m *ur*es4 ,! s\?-we/ corn] ( ! city is /ill an empty des]t full ( rubble & /one /rewn ab\t ev]y:]e1 ! rema9s ( ! n[ dismantl$ =tress :i* ov]look$ ! valley ( ! ,tormes4 ,among ! *ur*es left1 t atta*$ to ! n[ suppress$ ,dom9ican ,conv5t ( ,san ,e/ban is by f> ! f9e/4 ,x is a m9iature ,ca!dral 9 itself4 ,! ,go?ic ext]ior is extremely good4 ,! great we/ faade is highly enri*$ ) ,plat]esque ornam5t4 ,an elliptical ar* ( great dim5sions ro(s ! por*4 ,bel[ x is a reali/ic gr\p illu/rat+ ! m>tyrdom ( ,/4 ,/eph51 ) ! date #afaj cut ^u a /one :i* "o ( ! figures is pick+ up to hurl at ! sa9t4 ,! coro is ov] ! we/ end1 & = once ! :ole ( ! int]ior is visible4 ,?is is v l(ty1 & ! view up to ! imm5se ,high ,alt>1 execut$ by ,*irrigu]a himself1 sup]b4 ,!re are two m alt>s 9 ! *ur* by ! same h&1 & al?\gh 8 flamboyant /yle is n to my lik+1 ,i c\ld n help admir+ ! way 9 :i* he _h evid5tly all[$ himself all ! lic5ce he 0 capable ( 9 _! sumptu\s design4 ,to ! s\? ( ! little plaza 9 :i* ,san ,e/ban /&s are ! cloi/]s ( ! conv5t1 9 ! upp] /orey ( :i* is ,salamanca's museum4 ,un=tunately x conta9s no?+ ( int]e/4 ,columbus 0 lodg$ by ! ,dom9icans 9 ?is conv5t1 & prop\nd$ ^? s*emes to ! monks1 :i* ! le>n$ memb]s ( ! univ]sity _h pron\nc$ wor?less & crack-bra9$4 ,he f\nd 9 ,fray ,diego de ,deza & ! o!r bro!rs w>m support]s4 ,! once magnific5t ,conv5t ( las ,agu/9as ,recoletas1 f\nd$ by ! ,c\nt ( ,mont]ey1 has a beautiful *ur* 9 ! %ape ( a ,lat9 ,cross4 ,ov] ! ,high ,alt> is "o ( ,rib]a's ma/]pieces--,! ,immaculate ,conception4 ,mont]ey 0 kn[n z ! good sl[ man & 0 ,vic]oy ( ,naples 9 ,philip ,,iv4's reign4 ,he accumulat$ great weal? dur+ 8 ,vic]oyalty & built himself ! f9e palace :i* /&s close to ! conv5t4 ,!re is an anecdote curr5t 9 ,salamanca t :5 a peasant woman crav$ an audi5ce ( ! ,k+1 :i* he grant$1 %e pray$ ,god might make him also ,vic]oy ( ,naples4 ,! ,univ]sity :i* made ,salamanca fam\s 0 unit$ ) t ( ,pal5cia by ,f]d9&1 & v soon took ! =emo/ rank z a seat ( le>n+ 9 ,europe1 ?\gh at ! ,c\ncil ( ,con/ance 9 ! ye> #adad1 ,ox=d 0 giv5 prec$5ce1 a rul+ :i* mu* disgu/$ ! patriotic ,spani>d4 ,! build+ 0 entirely alt]$ by ! ,ca?olic ,k+s1 :o erect$ ! m>vell\s we/ faade1 "o ( ! be/ examples ( ,plat]esque "w 9 ! c\ntry4 ,l t ( ! ,ca!dral & ,san ,e/ban1 x is a wond]ful example ( :at c be done ) s(t /one1 & h[ well ! mo/ delicate modell+ has surviv$ 9 ?is dry climate4 ,"s ( ! ,moori% ceil+s ( ! int]ior h be5 re/or$4 ,! gr& /aircase lead+ to ! upp] floors & cloi/] is especially well c>v$ ) danc]s & foliage4 ,ov] ! door ( ea* aula1 or lecture room1 is a tablet d5ot+ ! sci5ce taught )94 ,! f9e libr>y is ri* 9 !ological lore & e>ly editions ( ,ari/otle1 c4 ,! little squ>e on to :i* ! we/ faade op5s also leads ?r\gh a good doorway into ! ,gramm> ,s*ool1 ) a delici\s cloi/] & %ady g>d54 ,! f\r sides ( ! squ>e & ! walls ( ! ,ca!dral are cov]$ ) num]\s hi]oglyphics & names 9 ,roman *>act]s4 ,!y are ! initials1 signs1 & names ( ! num]\s s*ol>s :o h di/+ui%$ !mselves 9 diff]5t walks ( life4 ,a cu/om n[ foll[$ 9 all our own s*ools on bo>ds ( hon\r4 ,! ,collegio ,mayor de ,santiago ,apo/ol is a sem9>y = ,iri% prie/s4 ,! numb] 9 tra9+ is g5]ally ab\t tw5ty4 ,?is build+1 orig9ally f\nd$ 9 #aeib by ,philip ,,ii4 & d$icat$ to ,/4 ,patrick1 is a v good example ( c9quec5to ar*itecture4 ,among ! _m f9e h\ses /ill left aft] ,fr5* depr$ations1 t ( ,la ,casa de las ,con*as is ! mo/ celebrat$4 ,x dates f #aeab1 & is s nam$ on acc\nt ( ! scallop %ells :i* decorate ! ext]ior walls4 ,! w9d[ grilles are exceptionally f9e4 ,! ,spani% prov]b ,la muj] y el vidrio siempre e/an en peligro--a woman & glass are always 9 dang]1 evid5tly held good :5 ^! intricate & beautiful gu>ds 7 let into ! /one4 ,! h\se has a lovely patio & a v f9e /aircase4 ,la ,casa de ,sal is ano!r h\se ) a good c\rt1 ! gall]y above be+ support$ by life-size figures4 ,la ,casa de las ,du5des1 or ,gho/s1 built by ,ar*bi%op ,fonseca1 0 suppos$ to be haunt$1 h5ce ! "n4 ,! ,torre del ,clav]o is a good specim5 ( ! ,ca/ilian keep4 ,x 0 built 9 #adhh by a ,sotomay] :o 0 ,clav]o or ,key-be>] to ! ,alcnt>a ,ord]1 & is /ill 9 ! possession ( ?is noble family4 ,?r\gh\t ! *ur*es1 9 ^! h\ses1 & ! conv5ts :i* rema9 unsuppress$ are _m f9e pictures1 & except = ,seville1 ,i f\nd "h m ( int]e/ ?an 9 any o!r city ( ,spa94 ,9 ! conv5ts ( c\rse mortal man is =bidd5 entrance1 & ,i c\ld only look at _! l(ty walls & wi% myself a ne>] acqua9tance ) ! arti/ic treasures :i* ,i 0 told lay buri$ beh9d !m4 ,p]haps ! be/ example ( a squ>e 9 ! :ole ( ! c\ntry is ! ,plaza ,mayor4 ,a l(ty colonnade runs ar\nd ! f\r sides & e ev5+ ! beauties & o!rs ( ,salamanca make x _! prom5ade4 ,! m5 /roll r\nd 9 "o direction & ! wom5 9 ! opposite4 ,! social life ( a ,spani% t[n pass$ 9 view be=e me1 ) all its fan & language ( ! eyes1 z ,i sat at "o ( ! small tables ( a caf & got ?is *eap & h>mless ent]ta9m5t = "o real4 ,! squ>e dates f #agbj2 ! h\ses are f\r /oreys high & on ! nor? & s\? sides be> m$allions ( k+s & celebrat$ m54 ,! ,ayuntami5to1 ) its *irrigu]esque faade1 occupies ! c5tre ( ! nor? side & adds greatly to ! appe>ance ( ?is f9e ,plaza :]e up to fifty ye>s ago bull fights took place4 ,my "w ov]1 ,i ne>ly always f\nd myself w&]+ on to ! des]t creat$ by ! ,fr5* at ! s\?-we/ angle ( ! city1 & ) my pipe sp5d+ half an h\r or s m$itat+ on ! ,salamanca ( ! ,pa/ & its contra/ ) ! ,pres5t4 ,! rock /&s high "h ov] ! road & riv] bel[1 & !re is a drop ( #ajj feet or m d[n on to ! =m]4 ,x is b a n>r[ lane h$g$ 9 by a high wall & ?is =bidd+-look+ rock4 ,:5 walk+ along ?is lane "o day ,i notic$ _m crosses cut 9 ! wall & *alk$ r$4 ,on inquiry ,i 0 told t ea* cross repres5t$ a suicide4 ,f ! height above1 ^? tir$ ( life or disappo9t$ 9 love hurl !mselves d[n & x is ! unwritt5 law or pr]ogative ( him :o f9ds ! mutilat$ body to c>ve a little cross on ! wall at ! spot :]e ! unhappy mortal has end$ 8 days4 ,b x 0 n to prev5t suicides t ,i w&]$ !re & sat smok+ my aft]noon pipe4 ,no1 ,i fe> x 0 some?+ +lori\s1 x 0 to get away f ! /5*es & fil? ( ! t[n & brea! ! fre% air ( ! pla94 ,i d n ?9k t any:]e1 unless x be 9 ,t>ragona1 7 my olfactory n]ves s insult$ z 9 ,salamanca4 ,flies 9 ?\s&s settl$ on my col\r box & pap] :]ev] ,i sat sket*+4 ,i c n[ appreciate fully ! torture ( ! ,egyptians dur+ ! plague4 ,add to ! flies begg>s innum]able1 ) horrible sores1 (fal & fil? 9 ! /reets & "s ( ! romance vani%es4 ,yet ,salamanca /ill rema9s ! ,spa9 ( my imag9ation1 = 0 n all ?is "p & p>cel ( my dream8 ,,avila ,avila is "o ( ! mo/ p]fectly pres]v$ t[ns 9 ,spa94 ,x gave me ! impression ( hav+ be5 dropp$ f ! sky1--complete z x is--s desolate & b>r5 is ! b\ld]-/rewn wa/e t surr\nds x4 ,a sort ( suburb pu%es its mean h\ses /raggl+ beyond ! walls1 b ,avila itself lies snugly )9 !m4 ,!y are p]fect--^! walls t entirely encircle ! old portion ( ! t[n4 ,=ty feet high1 twelve ?ick1 ) eighty-six def5sive t[]s & ba/ions1 & t5 gates1 !y are con/ruct$ ( slabs ( granite set end upw>ds1 & 7 always a h>d nut = invad]s to crack4 ,! ,roman ,avela aft]w>ds fell into ! h&s ( ! ,moors1 :o = long held x z a =tress ( ! fir/ class4 ,alfonso ,,vi41 ! conqu]or ( ,tol$o1 drove !m out aft] a l5g?y siege1 & ,avila 0 rebuilt by 8 son ,ramon ( ,burgundy4 ,x 0 !n t ! pres5t walls 7 built1 be+ erect$ "u ! sup]vision ( two =eign]s1 a ,fr5*man & an ,italian1 ,florian de ,pitu5ga & ,cass&ro4 ,s9ce _! day ,avila has play$ an important rle 9 ! hi/ory ( ! c\ntry & witness$ _m /range ev5ts4 ,9 #adfe an extraord9>y sc5e took place on ! pla9 outside ! city4 ,t unpopul> k+1 ,enrique ,,iv41 0 reign+ at ! "t1 & ! hatr$ ( ! p t[>ds him rea*$ its height :5 8 effigy 0 dragg$ f ! city & set ^u a ?rone :i* _h be5 prep>$ = ! c]emony ( degradation4 ,! ,ar*bi%op ( ,tol$o hav+ rec\nt$ ! p's grievances1 remov$ ! cr[n f ! effigy's head1 o!rs high 9 ! l& insult$ x & at l5g? pu%$ x (f ! ?rone1 ! p !n kick$ x ab\t & a game ( sock] ensu$4 ,pr9ce ,alfonso1 a m]e boy1 0 rais$ to ! unoccupi$ seat1 & hail$ ,k+ by ! ,ar*bi%op1 nobles & p1 amid/ a bl>e ( trumpets & g5]al rejoic+4 ,avila is an int5sely cold place1 fro/s (t5 occur "h 9 ,may1 b ! summ] mon?s are delightful4 ,e /reet1 e h\se almo/ is ( int]e/1 & 9 ! old days ( its importance !re c\ld h be5 few /rongholds 9 ! c\ntry s safe z ?is4 ,! ,ca!dral is almo/ a =t 9 itself4 ,! ea/ end =ms "p ( ! city walls1 ! apse abutt+ 9 l9e ) ! next two t[]s on ei!r side =ms "p ( ! def5sive works4 ,illu/ration3 ,,avila ,comm5c$ at ! end ( ! elev5? c5tury by ,alva ,g>cia1 a native ( ,nav>re1 ?is e>ly ,go?ic build+ is /ill unf9i%$4 ,n mu* is1 h[ev]1 ( ?is e>ly date1 = ! g5]al /yle ( ! build+ is ( ! end ( ! next c5tury1 & _m alt]ations h foll[$ ?is 9 lat] ye>s4 ,! we/ front has b "o t[]1 ! nor?--! o!r1 ! s\?1 does n rise above ! ro(4 ,! fav\rite ball decoration ( late ,go?ic ,spa9 is 9 evid5ce1 & gu>d+ ! doorway are a c\ple ( unc\? mace-be>]s4 ,v t]rible are ^! hairy granite m51 b n s dang]\s look+ z ! two lions :i* /& on p$e/als & are *a9$ to ! ,ca!dral walls4 ,always on gu>d1 ^! f\r /range figures h no d\bt _m a "t /ruck a holy t]ror into ! he>ts ( w\ld-be evil-do]s z !y ent]$ ! *ur*1 & ,i d>esay kept ! ?\ghts ( o!rs 9 ! /raight l9e4 ,! nor? door is e>ly po9t$ & c>ries figures 9 ea* jamb1 ! tympanum is decorat$ ) reliefs ( ! ,betrayal & ,la/ ,supp]1 b all ! figures are sadly mutilat$4 ,! ?ird entrance is at ! s\?-ea/ corn] ( ! ,ca!dral1 & is a lat] addition1 op5+ outside ! walls ( ! city on to ! ,calle de ,s4 ,segundo4 ,! int]ior ( ! ,ca!dral is v simple & massive1 p>tak+ m ( /r5g? ?an elegance4 ,x is a fitt+ inside to ! sev]ity ( ! =tress-l ext]ior4 ,! nave is n>r[ & l(ty1 & s are ! aisles4 ,! l>ge cl]e/ory w9d[s h _! trac]y above block$ up1 & ! l[] lights h be5 treat$ 9 ! same way1 ?us giv+ a c]ta9 resemblance to a tri=ium1 a feature ! *ur* does n possess4 ,! aisles 9 ! apse are d\ble1 l ^? at ,tortosa1 & al?\gh ! s+le columns 9 ! c5tre are v beautiful1 ^! aisles h n ! elegance ( ^? 9 ! o!r ,ca!dral4 ,! apse is v d>k1 ! /one "w at "o "t 0 pa9t$ r$ & ! little t rema9s ( ?is col\r adds to ! religi\s gloom ( its d\ble aisles4 ,! columns ?r\gh\t ! ,ca!dral 7 built to be> great weight1 _! capitals are simple & _! bases ! same4 ,! little light t glimm]s ?r\gh ! w9d[s adds greatly to ! sombre /r5g? ( ?is f9e build+1 :i*1 m ?an any o!r ( its size1 reflects ! life ( ! ,spa9 ( ^? days 9 :i* x 0 erect$4 ,/reet ?9ks x less influ5c$ by outside art ?an any o!r build+ 9 ! c\ntry1 & in/ances ! unique me?od ( lay+ ! /one ( ! root z support+ ?is op9ion4 ,! transepts conta9 "s good glass1 z also d ! w9d[s 9 ! *ancel4 ,!re are _m good e>ly tombs ?r\gh\t ! ,ca!dral4 ,judg+ f _! /yle ,avila 0 left alone :5 ,*irrigu]a 0 erect+ mon/rosities else:]e1 & to me x is ! mo/ homog5e\s ( ,spa9's ,ca!drals4 ,! retablo ov] ! ,high ,alt> rises 9 ?ree /ages & conta9s pictures by ,b]ruguete1 ,santos ,cruz & ,juan de ,borgoa4 ,on ?is acc\nt my la/ rem>k might be criticis$1 = ! :ole piece is a jumble ( /yles4 ,! *ancel is1 h[ev]1 too n>r[ = a view ( ?is m$ley f ! body ( ! *ur*1 & :]ev] "o roams 9 ! build+ no?+ attracts ! eye or di/urbs ! m9d by be+ too flagrantly incongru\s4 ,s d>k is ! apse t ! ,r5aissance trassegr>io does n obtrude 9 ! e>ly ,go?ic ( its surr\nd+s4 ,! v f9e tomb ( ,bi%op ,alfonso de ,madrigal1 ! ,solomon ( 8 day1 is =tunately illum9$ by a little light1 & ,i c\ld see ! effigy ( ?is wise ,prelate seat$ at 8 desk busily engag$ ) 8 p5 & scroll1 :ile above him ! ,magi & ,%eph]ds are ador+ 9 a good relief4 ,!re are "s e>ly pa9t+s 9 mo/ ( ! *apels1 ! retablo 9 t ( ,san ,p$ro be+ p]haps ! be/4 ,! "w ( ,cornielis1 a ,flemi% sculptor1 circa #aecg-dg1 is admirably display$ 9 ! v beautiful c>v+ ( ! sill]ia de coro1 & !re is no bett] example ( ,spani% metal "w ( ! fifte5? c5tury to be f\nd ?an 9 ! two iron-gilt pulpits4 ,! sacri/y conta9s a spl5did silv] mon/rance by ,arfe1 & an ,italian enamell$ *alice ( ! f\rte5? c5tury by ,petrucci ,orto ( ,si5a4 ,! cloi/]s are disappo9t+1 hav+ be5 mu* mutilat$ & ! f\rte5?-c5tury trac]y ( ! ar*es block$ up4 ,avila1 l its neighb\r ,segovia1 conta9s "s ( ! be/ examples ( ,romanesque "w1 & its _m *ur*es are ar*ologically z int]e/+ z ! ,ca!dral4 ,%elt]+ f ! ke5 nor? w9d "u ! arcade ( ,san ,vic5te ,i made a sket* ( ! gateway ( t "n4 ,! *ur* 0 f\nd$ 9 #acjg & d$icat$ to ?ree m>tyrs :o 7 put to dea? on ! rock :i* may /ill be se5 9 ! crypt bel[4 ,! we/ faade has two incomplete t[]s1 betwe5 :i* is a mo/ elaborately c>v$ ,romanesque doorway1 /&+ 9 a deeply recess$ ar*4 ,illu/ration3 ,,avila4 ,,pu]ta ,,de ,,san ,,vic5te ,! pure ,romanesque nave has bo? tri=ium & cl]e/ory & ! unusual feature ( po9t$ vault+4 ,! proportions ( ?is noble *ur* are v f9e1 b ! int]e/ ( ! non-ar*itectural visitor w be c5tr$ 9 ! ,tomb ( ,san ,vic5te & 8 two si/]s ,,ss4 ,sab9a & ,cri/eta4 ,a metal "w canopy re/+ on twi/$ columns surm\nts ! tomb :i* is a s>cophagus ( ! ?irte5? c5tury4 ,! leg5d tells h[1 aft] ! m>tyrdom ( ^! ?ree1 ! body ( ! fir/-nam$ 0 ca/ out to ! dogs1 & t a s]p5t came out ( ! hole 9 ! rock 7/ill visible7 & wat*$ ov] x4 ,a ,jew :o mock$ 0 smitt5 unto dea? by ! reptile & lies buri$ 9 ! s\? transept4 ,! transept *oir & ?ree semicircul> apses are ,transitional1 & c>ry a b>rel vault+4 ,outside ! city wall1 a little way d[n ! hillside & beyond ! dirty suburb t int]v5es1 is ! late ,go?ic *ur* ( ,san ,toms4 ,x possesses a f9e retablo ( ! patron ,/4 ,?omas ,aqu9as4 ,! ,high ,alt> is plac$ 9 a gall]y above a l[ elliptical ar*1 ?is feature be+ repeat$ at ! we/ end ) ! coro above4 ,at ! cross+ ( ! transepts is ! beautiful b greatly mutilat$ tomb ( ,pr9ce ,juan1 ! only son ( ,f]d9& & ,isabella1 by ^: untimely dea? ! cr[n ( ,spa9 pass$ to ,au/ria4 ,two o!r tombs ( great int]e/ are ^? ( ,juan de ,avila & ,juana ,velasquez4 ,mess] ,dom9co1 ! ,flor5t9e1 execut$ !m bo?4 ,san ,p$ro1 /&+ at ! ea/ side ( ! ,m]cado ,gr&e1 is ano!r ,romanesque *ur* ( great beauty4 ,ov] ! we/ door is a f9e :eel w9d[4 ,! int]ior is pure ,romanesque & ri* 9 ornam5t1 & ! nor? portal is replete ) ! same4 ,santa ,t]esa 0 born ( noble p>5ts 9 ,avila4 ,9 h] e>ly y\? h] he>t hung]$ = sa9tly adv5tures 9 ! broil+ sun ( ,africa & h] m9d 0 set ^u m>tyrdom at ! h&s ( ! ,moors4 ,fate1 h[ev]1 decre$ o!rwise4 ,at tw5ty ye>s ( age %e took ! veil & )9 a few ye>s _h f\nd$ sev5te5 conv5ts ( b>e-foot$ ,c>melite nuns4 ,a fav\rite sa9t ( ,spa91 ! date ( h] dea?1 ,augu/ #bg1 is kept all ov] ! ,p59sula & h] fe/ival celebrat$ ) great hon\r 9 ,avila on ,octob] #ae4 ,,segovia ,dirty1 dilapidat$ & sleepy1 b ! mo/ en*ant+ t[n 9 ,spa94 ,:at a treat x 0 to f9d myself once m 9 ! ,middle ,ages aft] ! bu/le & noise ( ,madrid6 ,! spr+s ( a ,spani% 'bus are good4 ,i nev] ent]$ "o )\t great misgiv+s z to h[ long ,i 0 fat$ to rema9 9 ?is _w4 ,to drive into a t[n su* z ,segovia is a gr& te/ = ! n]ves4 ,crack goes ! :ip1 (f />t ! sorry-look+ horses ) a j]k4 ,i am flung viol5tly aga9/ my neighb\r4 ,i ha/5 to apologise4 ,a disconc]t+ jolt knocks ! hat ov] my eyes1 be=e x is adju/$ ,i f9d myself 9 an attitude ( pray] ) my head buri$ 9 ! lap ( ! /\t lady :o pants opposite1 ano!r bump & %e is embrac+ me1 we dis5tangle ourselves1 we apologise1 e "o 9 ! 'bus is do+ ! same4 ,! ,jehu on ! box fe>s no ob/acles1 a rock or a rut1 !y are all ! same to him1 he takes !m all ) utt] disreg>d to ev]y?+ 9 8 way4 ,we fly along1 & someh[ we l& safely4 ,we always d4 ,yes1 ! /eel ( ^? spid]like spr+s mu/ be good1 or ! sa9ts are wat*+ our v5ture4 ,p]haps bo?4 ,! sc5]y on ! j\rney f ,madrid is v f9e aft] ! tra9 leaves ! junction at ,villalba4 ,sl[ly we crawl$ up ! incl9e w9d+ r\nd & d\bl+ on our c\rse4 ,m]ry little sn[-f$ /reams eag] to jo9 ) _! fell[s bel[ sp$ along 9 a race to ! sea4 ,! summ] villas ( ! ,madrileos dot ! hill slopes on ! gr\nd above ! )y b$s4 ,we w5t up & up until ! highe/ po9t on ! l9e 0 rea*$ "u ! road along :i*1 m>*+ nor?1 ,napoleon's troops toil$ 9 ! face ( a fe>ful blizz>d4 ,be=e ent]+ ! tunnel at ! top ( ! pass a glori\s panorama is spread out to ! s\?4 ,away 9 ! di/ance are ! m\nta9s ( ,tol$o & ! spires ( f>-(f ,madrid4 ,on leav+ ?is po9t ! desc5t became rapid1 & we :irl$ ?r\gh a magnific5t valley amid/ true ,alp9e sc5]y4 ,! rugg$ tops ( ! ,si]ra rose above ?ick =e/s ( p9e1 brawl+ torr5ts da%$ headlong d[n ?r\gh gre5 pa/ures1 gr& cattle 7 br[s+ on e side1 x 0 inde$ m ,swiss ?an ,spani%4 ,illu/ration3 ,,segovia ,,at ,,sunset ,"o (t5 he>s ! "q ask$--:y are !re no trees 9 ,spa98 ,a ,fr5* writ] answ]s1 t ! ,moors are responsible = ! lack ( %ade 9 a ,spani% l&scape4 ,he tells u !y cut d[n all ! trees !y f\nd1 because trees h>b\r birds1 & birds de/roy all fruit & gra96--a truly +5i\s !ory1 q wor?y ( ! f]tile bra9s ( ! ,fr5*1 b surely a mo/ ridicul\s solution4 ,! ,moor br\ght ! orange & ! lemon to ,europe2 he 0 a lov] ( %ade1 he 0 also a great g>d5]4 ,no1 ! reason :y ,spa9 has app>5tly no trees1 is t v few h be5 plant$ = hundr$s ( ye>s4 ,wood is necess>y = fires 9 a c\ntry :]e !re is practically no coal4 ,! peasant has always be5 poor1 he has always tak5 any?+ t came to h&4 ,he help$ himself to ! wood ( ! =e/s ar\nd him4 ,8 bett]s did ! same4 ,all ! trees ne> ,madrid are kn[n to h be5 ru?lessly cut d[n & sold to defray ! exp5ses ( ,philip ,,ii4's ,c\rt2 & x is only ( rec5t ye>s t any replant+ has be5 tak5 9 h&4 ,:5 ! pres5t ,k+ 0 a boy ( f\r ye>s old1 a c]emony1 n[ repeat$ e ye> at ! ,fie/a del ,arbol1 0 inaugurat$4 ,! ,que5 ,"m took him to ,gu9debra outside ,madrid1 :]e he plant$ sev]al trees4 ,at e anniv]s>y ! day is devot$ by s*ool *ildr5 all ov] ! c\ntry to ?is same object4 ,z _m z #aj1jjj sapl+s h be5 put into ! gr\nd 9 a s+le day1 ?us lay+ by a /ore ( weal? = future g5]ations4 ,segovia is surr\nd$ by trees4 ,hidd5 f ! great pla9 9 :i* ! t[n lies1 !y cov] ! banks ( ! two /reams :i* jo9 issue bel[ ! city1 ?us =m+ ! mass ( rock on :i* x /&s4 ,^! valleys1 eat5 out by ! runn+ wat]1 are among ! great *>ms ( ?is romantic place4 ,no?+ c exce$ ! beauty ( e>ly spr+4 ,fruit trees 9 full blossom1 tall popl>s b5d+ _! graceful heads 9 ! breeze & *e/nuts bur/+ into leaf4 ,! air is fill$ ) ! twitt]+s ( ne/+ birds1 ! slop+ banks cov]$ ) ! t5d] gre5 ( "y grass2 all nature is alive1 ! sun is w>m & ! s\nd ( ru%+ wat]s br+s peace to ! s\l4 ,p]*$ high up1 hang+ app>5tly on mighty rocks1 ! ,alcz> broods grimly ov] ! gorge bel[4 ,/ill fur!r up & beyond1 rises ! mass ( ! ,ca!dral1 t[]s1 domes & p9nacles4 ,?ree hundr$ & ?irty feet high1 ! great t[] re>s itself l a s5t9el1 a l&m>k = _m miles4 ,r\nd ! base clu/] ! h\ses ( ! t[n l *ick5s seek+ %elt] "u ! w+s ( a "m h54 ,no place 9 all ,spa9 appeal$ to me s mu*4 ,no t[n 0 s replete ) subjects = my bru%1 & n[h]e else did ,i feel ! romance ( ?is m>vell\s c\ntry z 9 ,segovia4 ,illu/ration3 ,,segovia4 ,,! ,,aqu$uct ,a t[n ( ,ib]ian orig9 & "n1 "u ! ,roman rule x 0 ( "s importance4 ,! great aqu$uct1 :i* spans ! valley t divides ,segovia 9 ! ,plaza del ,azoqujo1 br\ght pure wat] f a m\nta9 torr5t1 ! ,rio ,frio1 t5 miles away4 ,x does ! same to-day4 ,con/ruct$ ( granite blocks1 laid ,cyclopean fa%ion )\t mort> or cem5t1 x comm5ces ne> ,san ,gabriel4 ,to break ! =ce ( ! ru%+ /ream ! conduit has _m angles4 ,)\t d\bt x is ! mo/ important ,roman rema9 9 ,spa91 = ?is alone ,segovia w\ld be fam\s4 ,once ^u a "t 8 ,satanic ,maje/y fell desp]ately 9 love ) a beautiful ,segovian4 ,to fur!r 8 suit1 an (f] 0 made to d any?+ %e might require4 ,h] home 0 on a hill2 h] "w1 to fet* wat] f ! /ream bel[4 ,f9d+ ! cont9ual tramp d[n & up r irksome1 ?is daught] ( ,eve be?\ght h]self ( a reque/ to mitigate h] toil4 ,done1 said ! ,evil ,"o1 & ! aqu$uct 0 built 9 "o night6 ,9 t]ror %e fl$ to ! *ur*1 & ! *ur* discov]$ t "o /one _h be5 left out1 also t ! aqu$uct 0 extremely useful4 ,! contract 0 decl>$ void & ! maid5 fre$ f ! ra% promise %e _h playfully giv5 8 maje/y4 ,! c\ntry folk /ill "k x by ! "n ( ! ,pu5to del ,diabolo4 ,dur+ ! siege ( ,segovia1 ! ,moors de/roy$ ?irty-five ( ! ar*es1 b ^! 7 clev]ly rebuilt 9 #adic by ,juan ,escov$o1 a monk ( ,el ,p>ral1 :o receiv$ ! scaffold+ 9 paym5t = 8 "w4 ,m rec5tly1 ext5sive repairs 9 ! same way h be5 successfully c>ri$ out4 ,! mo/ impos+ view is 9 ! ,plaza del ,azoqujo1 f :i* x t[]s upw>ds 9 a d\ble l9e ( ar*es "o above ! o!r1 & its l5g? is be/ grasp$ f ,el ,calv>io1 a hill to ! s\? ( ! t[n4 ,! ,ca!dral is a late ,go?ic pile1 built ( a w>m yell[ /one1 & looks p>ticul>ly impressive f ! %ady walk among ! rocks on ! left bank ( ! ,clamores1 ! /ream :i* cuts (f ,segovia f ! s\!rn plateau4 ,x 0 begun 9 #aebe by ! build] ( ,salamanca's ,ca!dral :i* x greatly resembles1 ,juan ,gil de ,hontaon1 & cont9u$ at 8 dea? by 8 son4 ,! weak po9t 9 ! ext]ior1 :i* masses v gr&ly1 is ! we/]n faade4 ,! int]ior is v /rik+4 ,! wide span ( ! ar*es1 ! ri*ness ( ! admirable vault+1 ! spl5did late ,go?ic w9d[s & ! feel+ ( light & space are f9e examples ( ! la/ /age ( ,go?ic "w1 j be=e ! influ5ce ( ! oncom+ ,r5aissance took hold ( ! ar*itects ( t day4 ,! floor is beautifully laid ) r$1 blue & :ite diamond-%ap$ slabs ( m>ble2 & ! v necess>y notice--,no escupir1 la religiosidad y higi5e la prohibur--keeps x clean & dec5t4 ,9 ! coro1 :i* occupies ne>ly ! :ole ( ! c5tre ( ! nave1 !re is a retablo by ,sabat9i4 ,! sill]ia are v f9e4 ,!y 7 rescu$ f ! old ,ca!dral1 :i* 0 de/roy$ 9 ,*>les ,v4's "t by ! ,comunros1 :o />t$ bus9ess by pull+ d[n *ur*es1 appropriat+ all !y c\ld lay h&s on1 plund]+ ! weal?y & g5]ally behav+ z a mob t has ! upp] h& always does4 ,! out] walls ( ! coro are /ucco1 pa9t$ to repres5t diff]5t species ( m>ble2 describ$1 by ! way1 9 a reputable guide book--beautifully col\r$ m>bles6 ,mo/ ( ! rejas :i* %ut (f ! side *apels are good gild$ iron "w4 ,9 t ( la ,pi$ad !re is a good retablo ) life-siz$ figures by ,juan de ,juni1 #aega2 & 9 ! *apel ( ! ,segragrio a wood5 figure ( ,*ri/ by ,alonso ,cano4 ,?r\gh a f9e ,go?ic portal 9 ! ,capilla del ,cri/o del ,consuelo ,i ent]$ ! cloi/]s 9 company ) a v]g]1 :o took great pride 9 8 ,ca!dral4 ,^! cloi/]s are surpass+ly beautiful2 a v good example ( flamboyant ,go?ic4 ,9 va9 did ,i se>* = a corn] f :i* to make a sket*4 ,! c\rty>d 0 ov]gr[n ) %rubs1 tall cypresses & v9es climb+ at r&om %ut out ev]y?+4 ,! g>d5 itself 0 a mass ( rubbi% & old timb]4 ,! well 9 ! c5tre1 ov]gr[n ) creep]s & we$s2 :ile 9 ! cloi/]s !mselves prep>ations 7 afoot = ! com+ ,ea/] processions1 & all available space tak5 up by c>p5t]s & pa9t]s at "w on ! ,pasos4 ,9 ! little d>k *apel ( ,santa ,catal9a on ! we/ side1 is ! t9y tomb ( ! un=tunate ,infante ,p$ro1 ! ?ree-ye>-old son ( ,h5ry ,,ii4 ,! poor little *ild 0 dropp$ by 8 nurse f a w9d[ 9 ! ,alcaz>1 & end$ 8 "y life on ! rocks bel[4 ',tis a pitiful object ?is pa!tic tomb1 alone1 "h 9 ?is damp spot :]e daylight only ent]s :5 ! door is op5$4 ,9 ! sacri/y !re is a ,cu/odia 9 ! =m ( a temple1 six feet high1 silv] & exquisitely *as$4 ,! ve/m5ts possess$ by ! cl]gy are mo/ r>ely work$ & ( great value4 ,segovia 0 once ri* 9 *ur*es4 ,l ! re/ ( ! city1 a great _m h alas6 fall5 into decay1 & ^? n 9 ?is /ate are rapidly approa*+ x4 ,!y are mo/ly small & reta9 ! apse4 ,sev]al are cloi/]$ & e "o ( !m is ar*itecturally ( great int]e/4 ,"h aga9 is ano!r *>m ( ?is romantic old city1 evid5ce ( pa/ glories & ecclesia/ical p[]1 ! hi/ory ( ,spa9 writt5 9 its /ones4 ,illu/ration3 ,,segovia4 ,,plaza ,,mayor ,san ,millan1 a ,romanesque /ructure ( ! twelf? c5tury1 is ! be/ pres]v$ *ur* 9 ,segovia4 ,! exquisite arcades on ! nor? & s\? sides h c\pl$ columns ) elaborately c>v$ capitals4 ,l mo/ ( ! build+s ( ?is p]iod solidity r ?an grace 0 ! effect aim$ at by _! ar*itects4 ,x possesses a triple apse2 ! pi]s support+ ! ro( are v massive1 ! capitals to ! columns are =m$ ( semi-grotesque figures ( man & bea/4 ,! two doorways are good4 ,9 ! *ur* ( ,san ,m>t9 !re is a c>v$ wood5 ,passion4 ,f\r life-siz$ figures take ! place ( %afts 9 ! great doorway1 & aga9 a cloi/] =ms ! ext]ior ( ! s\? & we/ walls4 ,9 ! ,dom9ican conv5t ( ,santa ,cruz1 f\nd$ by ,f]d9& & ,isabella1 is /ill to be se5 a sepul*ral urn ( "o ( ! orig9al companions ( ,/4 ,dom9ic4 ,tanto monta ! motto ( ! ,k+ & ,que5 is cut bo? inside & out on ! walls4 ,ov] ! we/ portal are good reliefs ( ! ,crucifixion & ! ,piet4 ,la ,v]a ,cruz1 a *ur* built by ! ,templ>s 9 #abjd1 is difficult ( access4 ,i procur$ ! key aft] mu* tr\ble1 & f\nd ! twelve-sid$ nave =m+ a sort ( ambulatory r\nd ! c5tral wall$-9 *amb]4 ,x is an imitation ( ! ,holy ,sepul*re at ,j]usalem4 ,! ,templ>s 7 suppress$ 9 #acab1 s ?is gem _h b a %ort exi/5ce z _! h\se ( pray]4 ,ne/l+ amid/ a grove ( acacia trees1 hidd5 away "u ! rock1 is ! ,santu>io de ,fu5cisla4 ,built to commemorate ! miracul\s rescue ( ,m>ia del ,salto1 a beautiful ,jewess1 ?is little sanctu>y is mu* affect$ by pilgrims4 ,! rock :i* ov]%ad[s x is kn[n z ,la ,pea ,graj]a1 or ,cr['s ,cliff1 tak+ ?is "n f ! multitude ( c>nivor\s birds :o always assembl$ "h = a meal aft] a victim _h be5 hurl$ d[n to expiate 8 crime 9 a dea? bel[4 ,m>ia1 accus$ ( adult]y1 0 l$ to ! top & pu%$ (f ! edge to f9d ! fate ( s _m be=e h]4 ,) great pres5ce ( m9d %e call$ l\dly on ! ,virg91 :o he>+1 came to h] assi/ance2 & s ret>d$ h] d[nw>d flight t %e alight$ g5tly1 escap+ unhurt4 ,"h 9 days long gone by liv$ a h]mit1 ^: good life & de$s are /ill a mu*-rev]5c$ leg5d among ,segovians4 ,! mona/]y ( ,el ,p>ral1 once a weal?y & p[]ful h\se ( ! bro!rhood ( ,san ,g]nimo1 conta9s a v good retablo by ,diego de ,urb9a4 ,x 0 f\nd$ by a memb] ( ! great ,pa*eco family1 :o f\ght ?ree antagoni/s "o aft] ano!r & came (f successful4 ,he v[$ to build a *ur* on ! spot :]e 8 skill & pr[ess gave him s spl5did a victory1 & to end[ x z well4 ,x is n[ a conv5t ( ,franciscan nuns4 ,next 9 importance to ! ,ca!dral is ! comp>atively new build+ ( ! ,alcz>4 ,/&+ high up on ! crags1 bel[ :i* ! ,eresma & ,clamores meet1 x occupies an unrivall$ position4 ,a f9e view ( ?is truly ,ca/ilian =tress is obta9$ f ! beautiful walk :i* encircles ! city on ! fur!r bank ( ea* /ream4 ,above ! tall popl>s & ?ick scrub rise its turrets & spires4 ,! massive walls g %e] up f ! rock on :i* _! f\ndations re/4 ,! huge embattl$ t[] & drawbridge assi/ ! feel+ ( /r5g?2 & x only requires ! wea!r+ ( ye>s1 add+ brok5 col\r to ! some:at new-look+ ext]ior1 to make ?is a p]fect specim5 ( m$ival ar*itecture4 ,! build+ 0 orig9ally ,moori%1 b ! _m vicissitudes ( tr\bl\s times saw x 9 a bad /ate :5 ,h5ry ,,iv41 el ,impot5te1 repair$ & made x 8 resid5ce4 ,)9 its walls ,isabella 0 proclaim$ ,que5 ( ,ca/ile 9 #adgd4 ,cabr]a1 ! husb& ( h] greate/ fri5d1 ,beatrice ( ,boabdilla1 held ! =tress & its treasure1 & x 0 ma9ly ?r\gh 8 val\r t ,isabella succe$$ to ! ?rone4 ,dur+ ! ,comunros insurrection ! ,alcz> held out = ,*>les ,v4 ,at ! quell+ ( ! revolt ,*>les did all 9 8 p[] to ?or\ghly re/ore ! build+ & furni% x ) great spl5d\r4 ,8 son ,philip add$ mu* t ! fa!r's dea? _h left unf9i%$4 ,our own ,k+1 ,*>les ,i41 0 "h ent]ta9$1 & ,gil ,blas conf9$ a prison]4 ,! great fire1 orig9at$ by "s ( ! /ud5ts ( ! milit>y college1 almo/ entirely de/roy$ ! :ole ca/le 9 #ahfb4 ,! pres5t edifice dates f %ortly aft] t ye> & is n[ us$ z a /oreh\se = milit>y ar*ives & an academy = artill]y (fic]s4 ,a v good gateway spans ! road t leads out pa/ ! ,santu>io de ,fu5cisla along ! "r bank ( ! ,eresma4 ,! riv] "h is an ideal look+ tr\t /ream1 b alas6 fi% are n z pl5tiful n[ z :5 ,*>les ,i4 0 ent]ta9$ & f$ on fatte tr\te 9 ! ,alcz>4 ,foll[ ! pa? ov] ! bridge to ! left1 x soon n>r[s into a m]e goat track z x skirts ! rock2 a few /eps f>!r on & ! wond]ful position ( ! =tress-ca/le bur/s into view4 ,h[ fasc9at+ x look$ z ,i saw x "o night 9 ! moonlight ) ! silv] beams gl9t+ on its spires4 ,all 0 v /ill z ,i ent]$ ! wood ( /unt$ p9es beyond4 ,across ! rav9e rose ! mighty ,ca!dral silh\ett$ aga9/ a d>k />-lad5 sky4 ,a light "h & !re %one f a w9d[ 9 ! h\ses b5ea?4 ,i he>d ! di/ant cry ( ! wat*man on 8 r\nds4 ,a fa9t sc5t f ! heavy dew rose to my no/rils1 a sc5t ( "m e>?4 ,x 0 ) unwill+ /eps ,i cross$ ! /ream & s\ght my b$ t night4 ,su* mom5ts are r>e4 ,on ! left bank ( ! ,eresma1 almo/ hidd5 9 ! trees1 /&s a build+ :i* once 0 ! m9t ( ,spa94 ,up till ! ye> #agcj all ,spa9's money 0 co9$ "h1 ! proximity to ! impregnable ,alcz>1 :i* 0 us$ z ! ,treasury1 af=d+ security aga9/ untimely raids4 ,! old m9t is n[ a fl\r mill1 b /ill be>s ! royal arms ov] its gateway4 ,at "o "t ,segovia 0 ! great ,ca/ilian m>t = wool4 ,! *ur*1 & mona/]ies ( ,el ,p>ral1 ,el ,paul>1 & ! ,escorial own+ imm5se flocks4 ,^! 7 driv5 to ! pure wat]s ( ! ,eresma1 to be cleans$ be=e be+ %orn4 ,aft] ! %eep-wa%+1 ! animals 7 put into ! sweat+ h\se1 & _! legs ti$ toge!r4 ,! %e>] !n comm5c$ op]ations1 & z ea* %eep pass$ out ( 8 h&s x 0 br&$2 ! %eph]ds /&+ by made a selection ( ! old] animals = ! but*]1 ! rema9d] be+ tak5 away to _! m\nta9 pa/ures4 ,ev5 n[ !re are _m flocks 9 ! c\ntry ar\nd1 p>ticul>ly on ! l[] hills ne> ,la ,granja1 :]e ,i notic$ a l>ge numb] n at all unlike ! ,k5ti% bre$ ( ,romney ,m>%4 ,sev5 miles f ,segovia ! summ] ,royal ,palace ( ,la ,granja lies 9 ! mid/ ( beautiful woods & cle> /reams4 ,at ! foot ( ! ,si]ra1 ! highe/ peak ( :i*1 ,la ,peal>a1 raises its cre/ a few miles (f1 ?is elysium is a beautiful spot = ^? :o h e>n$ a holiday f ! c>es ( ,/ate4 ,! g>d5s are mo/ *>m+ly arrang$1 & ! f\nta9s ) a nev] end+ supply ( wat]1 bett] ?an ^? at ,v]sailles4 ,built by ,philip ,v41 ^: ta/es & incl9ations 7 ?or\ghly ,fr5*1 ,la ,granja has be5 ! sc5e ( important ev5ts 9 ! hi/ory ( ! c\ntry4 ,! treaty :i* h&$ ,spa9 ov] to ,france 9 #agif 0 "h sign$ by ,godoy4 ,9 #ahcb ,f]d9& ,,vii4 revok$ ! decree by :i* he _h aboli%$ ! ,salic law1 & summon$ ,don ,c>los to ! palace z heir to ! ?rone1 a call :i* plung$ 8 unhappy c\ntry into civil w>4 ,f\r ye>s lat] ! ,que5 ,reg5t 0 compell$ )9 its walls1 by ! lead] ( ! revolution>y soldi]y1 to accept ! con/itution ( ,cadiz4 ,e corn] ( ,spa9 holds hi/ory1 b none c comp>e ) ,segovia & its surr\nd+s 9 romance & old-_w *>m4 ,,s>agossa ,s>agossa lies midway on ! railway betwe5 ,madrid & ,b>celona1 &1 hav+ ab\t x a t\* ( bo? ^!1 c qualify z "o ( ,spa9's progressive cities4 ,! unsightly factory *imney is beg9n+ to spr\t up 9 ! suburbs2 old & n>r[ /reets are mak+ way = broad] & bett]2 & insanit>y qu>t]s giv+ place to mod]n hygi5e4 ,aragon is ! poore/ portion ( ?is fair l&1 & ,s>agossa is its capital4 ,9 e age ?is little k+dom has be5 torn by w> & has suff]$ heavily1 b its p h nev] wav]$ 9 _! fai?1 & are /ill among ! mo/ pi\s & sup]/iti\s ( ! _m diff]5t races t p ! ,ib]ian ,p59sula4 ,!y possess t /rong atta*m5t = _! /]ile pla9s & b>r5 m\nta9s s common to ^? :o wr+ f ,nature a b>e exi/5ce4 ,! ,emp]or ,augu/us1 9 ! ye> #be ,b4,c41 va/ly improv$ ,salduba1 & gave x ! title ( ,cs>ea ,augu/a4 ,:5 9 ! occupation ( ,rome x 0 a free city & _h a co9age ( its own4 ,! fir/ place 9 ,spa9 to r5\nce ,paganism1 ,s>agossa has always be5 a city ( great hol9ess4 ,:5 besieg$ by ! ,fr5* "u ,*ildeb]t 9 #edj1 ! inhabitants c>ri$ ! /ole ( ,san ,vic5te r\nd ! walls--& ! invad] fl$4 ,! ,infidel1 h[ev]1 prov$ less susceptible to a ,*ri/ian relic1 & ! city fell to ! weight ( 8 arms 9 ! eigh? c5tury4 ,be+ a ,b]b] ,infidel he recognis$ no ,kalif ( ,cordova1 & betwe5 ! two !re soon began "o ( ^? int]nec9e conflicts t 9 ! end l$ to ! t]m9ation ( ,moori% rule4 ,x 0 9 ?is connection t ,*>lemagne 0 implor$ to assi/ ! ,nor!rn ,moor aga9/ ! ,&alusian & cross$ ! ,pyr5ees ) an eye1 no d\bt1 9 ! long run1 to ! acquisition ( new t]ritory4 ,no soon] _h he rea*$ ! pla9s ( ,aragon ?an he 0 recall$ to quell a ris+ 9 8 own dom9ions4 ,8 back turn$1 & he be+ presumably 9 retreat1 ! ungrateful p1 eag] = plund]1 foll[$ & inflict$ on 8 re>gu>d a t]rible defeat 9 ! mo/ fam\s ,pyr5ean ,pass1 ! ,pass ( ,roncesvalles1 a disa/] 9 :i* ,rol&1 t h]o ( romance1 lo/ 8 life4 ,!nce onw>d1 z ! c5turies w5t by1 ,s>agossa 0 ! sc5e ( _m a fight4 ,alfonso ,i4 9 #aaah recov]$ x f ! ,moor aft] a long siege1 & ,moslem rule 0 end$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,s>agossa4 ,,la ,,seo ,s>agossa is be/ kn[n 9 ! annals ( its w>f>e = ! h]oic def5ce1 immortalis$ by ,byron1 9 ! w> ) ,france4 ,9 ! mon? ( ,may #ahjh1 ! invad] 0 close at h&1 & ! citiz5s organis$ !mselves = def5ce4 ,a "y ari/ocrat1 ,jos ,palafox1 0 *os5 z ! nom9al lead]1 & _h at 8 "r h& ! r$\btable peasant1 ,tio ,jorge ,ibort--,gaff] ,george4 ,8 two lieut5ants 7 ,m>iano ,c]ezo & ,tio ,m>91 :ile ! c\rage\s prie/ ,santiago ,sas assi/$ greatly1 ?r\gh 8 influ5ce ) ! populace1 to keep ?+s toge!r & prev5t petty squabbles4 ,"o hundr$ duros suppli$ ! s9ews ( w>6 ,sixte5 cannon1 a few old muskets & two hundr$ & tw5ty fight+ m5 7 all t ! lead]s c\ld c\nt ^u to repel ! army ( ,lefebvre4 ,! siege began 9 ,june & 0 ab&on$ 9 ,augu/1 9 consequ5ce ( ! disa/] to ,dupont at ,bailn4 ,9 ! foll[+ ,decemb] f\r ,m>%als ( ,france1 ,junot1 ,lannes1 ,morti] & ,moncey1 ) eighte5 ?\s& m51 inve/$ ! city1 b x 0 n until ,febru>y ( ! next ye> t1 hav+ driv5 ! def5d]s out ( ! ,jesuit conv5t across ! riv]1 ! ,fr5* 7 able to e/abli% a foo?old 9 ! outskirts ( ! city itself4 ,e "o kn[s h[ ! ,maid ( ,s>agossa took ! place ( h] dead artill]y lov] :o 0 kill$ at 8 gun2 an episode t has s9ce become a !me to in/il ! "y ) h]oic ideals4 ,su* 0 ! _s t ga9$ = ! city ! pr\d title ( siempre h]ica4 ,h] citiz5s f\ght f h\se to h\se1 e /reet _h b>ricades1 & x 0 only t :5 decimat$ by pe/il5ce & fam9e1 ) half ! place a smok+ ru91 "o ( ! mo/ celebrat$ sieges ( hi/ory came to end4 ,z 9 ,cadiz & ,salamanca1 !re are two ,ca!drals 9 ,s>agossa1 ,la ,seo & ,el ,pil>4 ,! =m] occupies ! site ( a *ur* :i* /ood "h be=e ! ,moors took possession ( ! place & turn$ x into a mosque4 ,a ye> aft] ! adv5t ( ,alfonso ,i41 ,bi%op ,p$ro de ,lebrana reconsecrat$ ,la ,seo1 & its walls h witness$ _m hi/orical ev5ts 9 ! life ( ,aragon be=e ! k+dom became m]g$ into "o ) ,ca/ile4 ,x 0 be=e ! ,high ,alt> t h] ,k+s 7 cr[n$1 & at ! font _m a royal babe baptiz$4 ,la ,seo is con/ruct$ almo/ entirely ( ! dull br[n brick ) :i* ! old] "p ( ! city is also built2 ! int]ior pi]s & vault+ alone be+ ( /one4 ,on ! nor?-ea/ wall1 :i* faces ! gloomy palace ( ! ar*bi%op1 !re is /ill extant ! mo/ elaborate arrangem5t ( brick "w1 inlaid ) col\r$ glaz$ tiles1 blue1 gre51 r$1 :ite & yell[1 =m+ a v h>moni\s & attractive s*eme4 ,f ! c5tre ( ! nor?-we/ faade1 :i* is extremely ugly1 rises a well-proportion$ t[] arrang$ 9 f\r /ages1 ) ,cor9?ian columns1 ! top ( :i* is surm\nt$ by a r$ til$ cupola & spire4 ,! col\r ( ?is took my fancy1 x sang out s mu* aga9/ ! blue ( ! sky--a contra/ ,i ?\ght wor?y ( an illu/ration4 ,ent]+ ! build+ by ! door 9 ! faade1 ,i 0 imm$iately nonpluss$ z to ! ori5tation ( ! ,ca!dral4 ,to add to ! puzzle1 = ! /ructure is almo/ squ>e1 f\r r[s ( columns seem$ mix$ up 9 endless confusion1 & ! dim light admitt$ f ! few w9d[s only acc5tuat$ ! my/]y4 ,v beautiful1 h[ev]1 is ?is ,go?ic int]ior :i* runs nor?-ea/ & s\?-we/1 & ,i soon f\nd a spot f :5ce to make a sket*4 ,! columns rise f m>ble bases ( a ri* crimson2 ! vault+ above 0 lo/ 9 gloom1 ! light com+ 9 f ! s\?-we/ w9d[ /ruck vividly on portions ( ! ,r5aissance respaldos1 ! ni*es ( :i* are fill$ ) sa9ts & ar*bi%ops1 & ! patt]n ( ! m>ble floor s]v$ b to height5 ! g5]al effect4 ,9 ! picture may be se5 a tab]nacle ) twi/$ black m>ble columns1 ?is m>ks ! spot :]e ! ,virg9 sudd5ly appe>$ & held conv]se ) ,cnigo ,fu5es4 ,besides ! ar*bi%op's ?rone1 ! coro1 :i* is n p>ticul>ly int]e/+1 conta9s a huge read+ desk4 ,!re is a great deal ( alaba/] ?r\gh\t ! ,ca!dral1 notably ! v f9e ,go?ic retablo ( ! ,high ,alt> by ,dalman de ,mur1 ar\nd :i* are _m tombs ( ! ,k+s ( ,aragon4 ,close by1 a black slab m>ks ! place :]e re/s ! he>t ( ,don ,baltaz> ,c>los1 ! son ( ,philip ,,iv41 :o 0 immortalis$ by ! bru% ( ,velasquez1 & :o di$ 9 ,s>agossa at ! e>ly age ( sev5te54 ,among ! *apels1 t us$ z ! segr>io1 or p>i% *ur*1 has a magnific5t ,moori% ceil+1 & ! f9e alaba/] tomb ( ,b]n>do de ,aragon4 ,! ,ca!dral is ri* 9 spl5did tape/ries & ecclesia/ical ve/m5ts4 ,among ! =m] is c]ta9ly ! be/ ,i h ev] set eyes ^u4 ,x is a v e>ly piece & has a wond]ful blue sky4 ,9 x are wov5 ! ,la/ ,supp]1 ,*ri/ be>+ ! ,cross1 ! ,agony 9 ! ,g>d5 & ! ,crucifixion1 :ile 9 ! l[] "r-h& corn] our ,savi\r is assi/+ ) a long pole to /ir up devils :o are roa/+ 9 ,hades4 ,among ! ve/m5ts is an extremely beautiful *asuble br\ght "h at ! "t ( ! ,re=mation f ,old ,/4 ,paul's 9 ,london4 ,i wond]$1 :5 ,i look$ at x1 :e!r ,ca!r9e ( ,aragon1 ,h5ry ,,viii4's consort1 _h be5 in/rum5tal 9 its removal f ,engl&4 ,illu/ration3 ,,s>agossa4 ,,9 ,,! ,,old ,,ca!dral ,! ,ca!dral ( ,el ,pil> is ?us nam$ z x possesses ! id5tical pill> on :i* ! ,virg9 desc5d$ f ,heav5 & appe>$ to ,/4 ,james4 ,at fir/ a mode/ *apel1 x has gr[n by ! addition ( cloi/]s & subsidi>y *apels to ! pres5t /up5d\s build+4 ,! l5g? is close on five hundr$ feet & ! bread? two hundr$4 ,! possession ( ?is miracul\s pill> has br\ght untold weal? to ! ,ca!dral4 ,votive (f]+s on ! anniv]s>y ( ! fe/ival at ! %r9e (t5 am\nt to _m ?\s&s ( p\nds4 ,jewelry1 gems & co/ly objects ( e description are giv52 ^! are n[ sold by auction1 ! l>ge sum ( #bj1jjj be+ realis$ a few ye>s ago4 ,to ^! sales we owe a f9e rock cry/al & gold m$allion1 giv5 to ! ,virg9 ( ,el ,pil> by ,h5ry ,,iv4 ( ,france1 & n[ 9 ,s\? ,k5s+ton ,museum4 ,_m examples ( old ,spani% goldsmi?'s "w h also be5 acquir$ = ! same collection 9 ?is way4 ,! t[]s & p9nacles ( ,el ,pil> pile up gr&ly1 & are be/ se5 f ! f9e bridge :i* spans ! yell[ flood ( ! riv] ,ebro4 ,silh\ett$ aga9/ ! ev5+ sky1 ) ! smoo? runn+ wat]s bel[1 x seem$ to me a wor?y example 9 brick & /one ( ! *ur*'s magnific5ce4 ,! int]ior is an imm5se temple1 ! frescoes ( :i* are f ! bru% ( t extraord9>y g5ius1 ,goya1 :o turn$ 8 tal5t to any job t 0 productive ( ! ca% he sp5t s freely4 ,! retablo ( ! ,high ,alt> is a f9e piece ( "w f ! alaba/] qu>ries at ,escatron4 ,compos$ ( ?ree good ,go?ic canopies ) tap]+ f9ials1 x has sev5 small] divisions bel[4 ,damian ,=m5t 0 ! arti/ :o design$ & c>ri$ out ?is1 "o ( ! mo/ beautiful retablos 9 ! c\ntry4 ,! reja :i* /&s 9 front ( coro is sup]b1 & consid]$ to be ,juan ,celma's ma/]piece4 ,beh9d ! ,high ,alt> is ! celebrat$ *apel ( ! ,virg94 ,! figure itself is ( v old black5$ wood1 evid5tly a specim5 ( e>ly ,*ri/ian "w4 ,on ,octob] #ab1 ! anniv]s>y ( h] desc5t1 ?\s&s ( pilgrims flock hi!r to kiss h] foot ?r\gh a hole 9 ! wall at ! back ( ! *apel4 ,! city is !n full ( visitors & x is next to impossible to f9d qu>t]s or a room ( any sort4 ,illu/ration3 ,,s>agossa4 ,,ea/] ,,procession ,i happ5$ to be 9 ,s>agossa = ,semana ,santa4 & wat*$ ! processions ( gr\ps ( heavy wood5 figures1 illu/rative ( our ,"l's life-hi/ory1 proce$ ?r\gh cr[d$ /reets4 ,my sket* %[s ! la/ paso ( ! ,crucifixion1 ) a figure ( ! ,virg9 br++ up ! re>1 z !y pass$ ! int5sely dev\t ?rongs on ,good ,friday4 ,mask$ memb]s ( diff]5t religi\s bro!r & si/]hoods1 walk along keep+ ! r\te cle>4 ,! :ole procession 0 l$ by soldi]y1 & ,romans1 m5 attir$ 9 ! g>b ( anci5t ,rome1 :ile an infantry b& foll[$ ! ,virg94 ,! pasos are deposit$ 9 ! ,*ur* ( ,santiago built on ! spot :]e ,/4 ,james pass$ a night4 ,9 ! belfry ( ?is *ur* is an old ,go?ic bell ( :i* ! inhabitants are ju/ly pr\d4 ,san ,pablo is a v int]e/+ fabric1 dat+ f ! ye> #abei4 ,! floor ( ! *ur* is a doz5 /eps bel[ ! /reet4 ,! retablo is ano!r f9e example ( ,damian ,=m5t's art4 ,! aisles are cut (f f ! nave by a flat wall ) squ>e pill>s & ill-proportion$ po9t$ ar*es4 ,! coro is at ! we/ end1 f :5ce also issue ! notes ( a v beautifully ton$ organ4 ,! extraord9>y octagonal brick /eeple might pass z ( ,russian or ,t>t> orig94 ,( all ! gateways to ! city1 !re rema9s b "o1 ! ,pu]ta del ,c>m54 ,x has be5 left z x /ood aft] ! ,fr5* bomb>dm5t1 & reta9s _m m>ks ( %ot & s(t-nos$ bullets4 ,! site ( ! hi/oric ,pu]ta del ,portillo1 :]e ! ,maid ( ,s>agossa won immortal fame1 is 9 ! squ>e ( ! same "n4 ,outside x /&s ! ,ca/illo de la ,aljaf]ia1 ! ,palace ( ! ,%eikhs ( ,s>agossa1 & ! resid5ce ( ! ,k+s ( ,aragon4 ,f]d9& gave x to ! ,holy ,(fice1 & f out its portals issu$ _m t]rible ord]s = ! suppression ( ! wret*$ h]etic4 ,!re /ill rema9s a small octagonal mosque1 & _m ( ! rooms h _! orig9al artesonado ceil+s4 ,9 x also is ! ,torreta1 ! dungeon 9 ,il ,trovatore2 :ile f ! t[] c be se5 ! ,ca/illo de ,ca/lej>1 m5tion$ 9 ! drama by ,g>cia ,gaturrio1 f :i* ! libretto ( ! op]a 0 tak54 ,?is "o-"t f9e palace is n[ a b>rack1 & ,i us$ to wat* ! recruits drill+ & ex]cis+ outside4 ,:5 ! recruit+ season comm5ces1 ! numb]s are drawn among ^? liable to s]ve--! lucky ones be+ ^? :o are n compell$ to take any "p 9 ! milit>y s]vice ( _! c\ntry4 ,!re exi/ societies 9 ,spa9 to :i* a sum ( #gej pesetas c be paid1 t und]take to pay ano!r #gej pesetas to ! ,/ate1 if ! payee's "n is drawn = s]vice1 #aejj pesetas be+ ! sum :i* enables any "o to =ego 8 milit>y c>e]4 ,if 8 numb] is n drawn1 he loses 8 deposit1 if x is1 ! society pays ! full sum4 ,9 ! old days ! nobles ( ,aragon safe-gu>d$ _! privileges by ! ,furos de ,sobr>be1 a code some?+ l our ,magna ,*>ta1 :i* r$uc$ ! ,k+'s au?ority to almo/ vani%+ po9t4 ,p$ro ,,iv4 got rid ( ! ,furos by cutt+ to pieces ! p>*m5t incorporat+ ! union or conf$]acy1 ^: memb]s1 if ! ,k+ 0 ?\ght to h exce$$ 8 pr]ogative1 7 absolv$ f allegiance4 ,!y 7 a h>d-head$ race1 ^! ,aragonese1 & are /ill l ^? ( ! o!r nor!rn prov9ces1 v indep5d5t & jeal\s ( ,ca/ile's rule4 ,among o!r ?+s h&$ d[n f "t immemorial is a national dance1 & ! ,jota ,aragonesa1 ! national air1 kn[n beyond ! limits ( ,spa94 ,v few ( ^! old airs /ill exi/4 ,z a fact1 ! old songs ( ,spa9 & _! music are bett] kn[n 9 ! ,jewi% colony ( ,salonika ?an 9 ! c\ntry ( _! orig94 ,! upp] classes ( ?is colony /ill speak ! pure ,ca/ilian ( ,c]vantes' "t1 & be+ ! desc5dants ( ,spani% refugees h\nd$ out ( ! c\ntry by ! ,inquisition1 /ill obs]ve ! cu/oms1 songs & language ( _! immigrant =efa!rs4 ,! ,aragonese also h a national game1 ,tir&o a la ,b>ra1 :i* consi/s 9 pass+ an iron b> f "o h& to ! o!r1 !reby ga9+ impetus = ! f9al sw+ :i* s5ds x hurtl+ ?r\gh ! air t[>ds a m>k on ! gr\nd1 l a javel94 ,"o or two good old h\ses /ill rema9 9 ,s>agossa to te/ify to its =m] greatness1 notably t ( ! great ,luna family4 ,two gigantic unc\? figures ) clubs /& on ei!r side ( ! doorway :i* is ! c5tre ( a simple b good faade4 ,! cornice above is v heavy & ! eaves project f> out1 a feature t ,i notic$ 0 v *>act]i/ic ( ! old qu>t]s ( ! city4 ,x 0 9 ?is h\se t ! besieg$1 dur+ ! ,fr5* w>1 held _! c\ncils4 ,! ,casa ,zaporta c boa/ ( a v f9e /aircase & beautiful patio ) elegant flut$ columns & reliefs & m$allions break+ ! sp&rils4 ,a few o!r good h\ses /ill exi/1 b z !y are 9 ! old qu>t]s ( ! city1 & z ^! are rapidly disappe>+1 ,i fe> t ,s>agossa w n conta9 = long any?+ beyond h] ,ca!drals t is ( tangible int]e/4 ,,santiago ,! ev5+ tra9 f ,pontev$ra deposit$ me sometime ab\t midnight at ,c]nes1 ! hamlet outside ,santiago :]e ! l9e ends4 ,! full moon dur+ ! latt] portion ( ! j\rney _h be5 a s\rce ( endless delight4 ,my face 0 glu$ to ! w9d[ wat*+ ! ev]-*ang+ hills & valleys ?r\gh :i* ! tra9 crept1 %r\d$ 9 t my/]y :i* oblit]ates detail & sugge/s s mu* 9 great masses ( subdu$ light & deep %ade4 ,i rea*$ ! hotel1 procur$ a room1 ?rew op5 ! w9d[1 & /ood on ! balcony li/5+ to ! int5se /illness ( a wond]ful night4 ,sudd5ly a dull rumbl+ d[n "s side /reet di/urb$ my rev]ie ( ! ,santiago ( days gone by4 ,! only ?+ to be expect$ at ?is "t ( night 0 ! /ation 'bus1 b ,i he>d no clatt]+ ho(s & 0 lo/ 9 surmise1 :5 out ( ! d>k %ad[ ( a n>r[ lane into ! moonlight swung a yoke ( ox5 draw+ a long c>t ) sl[ maje/ic pace4 ,b :at a c>t6 a l[ sort ( wood5 box balanc$ betwe5 two solid wood5 :eels4 ,! rumbl+ 0 expla9$4 ,x 0 primitive & ! mo/ m$ival ?+ ,i _h yet se5 9 a c\ntry :i* is b>ely ,european4 ,! peasant own]1 a few /eps 9 advance1 nev] turn$ 8 head1 b guid$ 8 bea/s ) a long /ick :i* he wav$ f side to side ov] 8 back4 ,!re 0 no %\t1 no cry ( comm&4 ,! mise en scne 0 beautifully arrang$1 x 0 complete4 ,!re 0 ! backgr\nd ( anci5t grey h\ses1 beyond !m1 tap]+ into ! />ry sky1 ! sl5d] p9nacles ( ! great ,ca!dral4 ,a r[ ( /unt$ trees occupi$ places d[n "o side ( ! little squ>e :i* fill$ my /age4 ,! subdu$ col\r & sil5ce ( ! moonlit night1 & ! sl[ passage ( ! ox-c>t z x pass$ out ( sight1 bett]$ ,irv+'s be/ effects at ! ,lyceum4 ,a clock 9 a neighb\r+ t[] /ruck ! qu>t]s1 ! mom5t _h arriv$ = ! anti-climax6 ,i expect$ e m9ute to see a door op51 a light /ream across ! squ>e1 a cloak$ figure /eal furtively out1 & disappe> d[n into ! %ad[ ( ! lane4 ,x 0 p]fect1 no?+ c\ld h be5 arrang$ bett] z an introduction to ,santiago de ,compo/ela4 ,illu/ration3 ,,santiago4 ,,! ,,ca!dral ,! body ( ,/4 ,james l&$ itself at ,padron on ! coa/ n f> f ,santiago1 & 8 bones 7 br\ght to ! spot :]e n[ /&s ! ,ca!dral4 ,9 ! c\rse ( "t _! :]eab\ts 0 =gott5 & x rema9$ = ,bi%op ,!odomir to r$iscov] ! sacr$ spot 9 #hbi1 guid$ ?i!r by a />4 ,h5ce ! ,campus ,/ell--or ,compo/ela4 ,! %r9e ( ! sa9t is /ill visit$ by innum]able pilgrims1 & p]haps m arrive 9 ,santiago ?an any o!r city ( ,spa94 ,9 old5 days s great 0 ! numb] t ,el ,cam9o de ,santiago--,! road to ,santiago1 gave rise to ! ,spani% t]m = ! milky way4 ,i h wat*$ !m 9 ! ,ca!dral1 peasants1 m5 & wom51 come f af>1 to judge by _! dress4 ,!y ea* c>ri$ a /aff decorat$ ) tufts ( h]bs & little />-%ap$ pieces ( bread ti$ on ) gay ribbons4 ,i h se5 wom5 mak+ ! r\nd ( ! alt>s 9 ! diff]5t *apels ) great bundles ( clo!s1 ?r\gh :i* 7 ?ru/ umbrellas1 balanc$ on _! heads4 ,!y nev] lo/ ! poise ( _! burd5 z !y knelt & rose aga94 ,b ( all ! pilgrims ,i saw1 "o :o might h /epp$ out ( ,*auc]'s pages c>ri$ me back to ! days ( long ago4 ,%e wore a %ort skirt ( ?ick br[n mat]ial1 s&als protect$ h] /ock+$ feet1 f h] girdle hung ros>y1 scallop %ells & a /onew>e pilgrim's bottle1 a hook$ /aff l5t support to h] b5t1 travell$-/a9$ figure4 ,h] lea!r wallet 0 /uff$ ) bread1 & cov]+ h] %ort cropp$ hair 0 a grey felt hat1 mu%room %ap$4 ,a little black dog ent]$ ! ,ca!dral ) h]1 & squatt$ sil5tly by 8 mi/ress's side z %e knelt pray+ 9 ! dim light ( a grey day4 ,*auc]'s ,wyt ( ,ba? _h made a pilgrimage to ,seynt ,jame1 & my pilgrim ) h] little lame companion might v well h be5 ) him too4 ,! ,ca!dral1 f\nd$ 9 #ajgh1 0 built on ! site ( "o de/roy$ by ,almanzor 9 #iig4 ,! leg5d ( ! de/ruction ( ! fir/ *ur*1 :i* _h be5 /&+ = j "o hundr$ ye>s1 0 ?us--,almanzor1 aft] sack+ ,leon & ,a/orga1 swept all ! c\ntry we/w>ds ) 8 ,moori% ho/s until he rea*$ ,santiago4 ,s great 0 8 fame & 9 su* t]ror 0 8 "n held t no "o _h ! c\rage to face him & fight = sa9t & city4 ,rid+ ?r\gh its des]t$ /reets he came to ! *ur*1 & to 8 surprise at la/ espi$ a solit>y ,*ri/ian1 a monk1 pray+ alone at ! %r9e ( ! sa9t4 ,:at do/ ?\ "h8 inquir$ ! haughty ,moor4 ,i am at my pray]s1 curtly answ]$ ! holy man1 cont9u+ 8 devotions4 ,?is reply & ! c\rage ( ! s+le enemy s call$ =? ! admiration ( ,almanzor1 t 8 life 0 sp>$ & an infidel gu>d set ov] ! tomb4 ,illu/ration3 ,,santiago4 ,,s\? ,,door ,,( ,,! ,,ca!dral ,! we/ faade1 a ,r5aissance out] cov]+1 s to speak1 ( ! old] faade1 w\ld n look s impos+ z x does if granite _h n be5 us$ 9 its con/ruction4 ,! grey tones ( ! li*5-cov]$ /one r$eem ! some:at ov]done florid design1 & x /&s well above a d\ble flight ( /eps on ! ea/ side ( ! huge ,plaza ,mayor4 ,! s\? door1 or ,pu]ta de las ,plat]ias1 takes ?is "n f ! silv]smi?s ^: work%ops are /ill "u ! arcades ar\nd ! ,plaza on to :i* x op5s4 ,x is ! olde/ portion ( ! ,ca!dral & dates f ! f\ndation4 ,! %afts conta9 ti]s ( figures 9 c>v$ ni*es1 & ! tympanum has r[s ( small] ones4 ,! nor? door fronts on to ! ,plaza ,fu5te ,san ,juan1 & faces ! conv5t ( ,san ,m>t9 ,p9>io1 :i* 0 f\nd$ 9 #iab by ,ordoo ,,ii4 ,9 ! days be=e ?is ,plaza 0 (ficially giv5 its pres5t "n1 x 0 kn[n z ,azaba*]ia1 azaba*e is jet1 & x 0 "h t va/ quantities ( ros>ies made ( ?is 7 sold to pilgrims4 ,9 ! s\?-ea/ angle ( ! ,ca!dral is ! ,pu]ta ,santa1 be>+ ! inscription ,hace e/ domus ,dei et porta coeli4 ,x is only op5$ 9 ! ,jubilee ye> & !n by ! ar*bi%op himself4 ,! entrance to x is f ! ,plaza de los ,lit]>ios4 ,x w be se5 f ?is t ! ,ca!dral is practically set 9 f\r great ,plazas1 el ,mayor1 de las ,plat]z1 la ,fu5te ,san ,juan1 & de los ,lit]>ios1 & = ?is reason1 al?\gh ! ro( t[]s high above1 x is "o ( ! few ,ca!drals ! size ( :i* c be appreciat$ by an ext]ior view4 ,! e>ly ,romanesque int]ior is sup]b1 & n unlike our own ,ely ,ca!dral4 ,! f9e/ ?+ 9 x ( ar*ological int]e/ is ! ,portico de la ,gloria1 :i* ,/reet calls "o ( ! greate/ glories ( ,*ri/ian ,art4 ,?is ,portico1 situat$ at ! we/ end ( ! nave1 =m$ at "o "t ! faade4 ,! idea ( ! :ole doorway is ,*ri/ at ! ,la/ ,judgm5t4 ,8 figure1 twice life-size1 occupies ! c5tre4 ,bel[ ,him is seat$ ,/4 ,james1 :ile ar\nd !m are angels wor%ipp+4 ,f\r & tw5ty eld]s are arrang$ 9 ! circumf]5ce ( ! ar*ivolt2 ea* "o holds a musical in/rum5t1 mo/ ( :i* are %ap$ l violas & guit>s4 ,a mo/ beautifully sculptur$ m>ble column supports ?is 9 ! c5tre1 re/+ on a base ( devils1 ) ! portrait ( ,mae/ro ,matio1 :o execut$ ! :ole f 8 own designs1 fac+ ! nave4 ,an inscription "u ?is doorway /ates t ! "w 0 f9i%$ 9 #aahh4 ,to ! "r & left are small] ar*es1 portray+ 9 well-cut granite good s\ls on _! way to ,p>adise & wick$ ones 9 ! clut*es ( devils on _! way to ,hell4 ,no?+ c exce$ ! primitive religi\s feel+ p]vad+ ?is "w4 ,mateo mu/ h giv5 8 :ole s\l ) f]v\r to 8 lab\rs2 & ! almo/ oblit]at$ traces ( pa9t+ & gild+ enhance _! result by giv+ a t\* ( w>m? to ! cold col\r ( ! /one4 ,we/ ( ! portico1 above :i* are ! rema9s ( a f9e :eel w9d[1 has be5 built ! pres5t ,r5aissance faade kn[n z ,el ,obradorio1 ! two be+ connect$ by quadrip>tite vault+4 ,! nave itself has a wall$-9 tri=ium1 b no cl]e/ory & ! vault+ ( ! ro( is b>rel4 ,! sa9t's %r9e is 9 ! crypt b5ea? ! ,capilla ,mayor4 ,! extra extravagant retablo above ! ,high ,alt> is *irrigu]esque1 & h>dly r$eem$ by ! lavi% employm5t ( jasp]1 alaba/] & silv] ) :i* x is decorat$4 ,a jewell$ figure ( ,/4 ,james is seat$ 9 a ni*e above ! mass ( preci\s metal 9 :i* ! alt> is encas$4 ,x is all v gorge\s & mu/ impress ! pi\s pilgrim :o has j\rney$ hi!r f af>1 b ,i c\ld n help wi%+ x 7 simpl]4 ,h[ev]1 ! "o liv+ vital ?+ 9 ,spa9 is h] religion1 & h] ,*ur* kn[s s well h[ to conduct its bus9ess t my feel+s ( regret are purely /hetic4 ,! cimborio is a f9e creation1 "u :i* sw+s on c]ta9 fie/as ! huge silv] inc5s>io1 a lamp wellnigh six feet high4 ,! two bronze pulpits are real ma/]pieces ( c9quec5to art & are adorn$ by subjects f ! ,old ,te/am5t by ,juan ,banti/a ,celma4 ,9 "o ( ! side *apels1 kn[n z ! ,relic>io1 are recumb5t figures on ! tombs ( ,don ,ramon1 ! husb& ( ,urraca1 ,b]5guela #aahg1 ,f]n&o ,,ii4 #abbf1 ,alfonso ,,xii4 ( ,leon #abfh1 & t fai?ful1 pitiable figure ,juan de ,ca/ro1 wife ( ,p$ro ! ,cruel4 ,ev5 n[1 aft] ! spoliation by ,s\lt1 :o c>ri$ away t5 hundr$weight ( preci\s metal 9 sacr$ vessels1 ! ,relic>io is a p]fect museum4 ,all ! o!r *apels conta9 good tombs1 especially t ( ,espiritu ,santo 9 ! nor? transept2 & among o!r beautiful objects ) :i* ! ,ca!dral is replete are two anci5t limosn]as or alms-boxes1 two v anci5t gilt pyxes1 a c>v$ wood5 cross1 simil> to ! mu*-rev]$ cross ( los ,angeles at ,ovi$o1 giv5 by ,don ,alfonso & ,da ,jim5a 9 #hgd4 ,! l>ge cloi/]s to ! s\?-we/ ( ! ,ca!dral 7 built by ,ar*bi%op ,fonseca 9 #aeba4 ,!y are bad ,go?ic enri*$ ) ,r5aissance details4 ,! c5tre c\rt is pav$ ) granite & gives an impression ( b>5ess :i* is n r$eem$ by ! ar*itecture4 ,x 0 9 ?is ,ca!dral t ,john ( ,gaunt1 ,duke ( ,lanca/]1 0 cr[n$ ,k+ ( ,spa94 ,illu/ration3 ,,santiago4 ,,int]ior ,,( ,,! ,,ca!dral ,santiago possesses a mu* frequ5t$ univ]sity1 :i* is extremely well provid$ ) books4 ,9 ! *ur* ( ,santa ,m>ia de la ,s> may be se5 relics ( ! ,holy ,(fice :i* held its sitt+s 9 ! adjo9+ mona/]y4 ,! presid5t's *air1 m>k$ ) a palm1 a cross & a r$ sword is p]haps ! mo/ notable4 ,?is mona/ic *ur*1 at "o "t own$ by ,templ>s1 is situat$ outside ! city b\nd>y on ! ,or5se road4 ,l all ! o!rs1 9 fact l ! :ole ( ,santiago1 x is built ( granite4 ,x possesses a triple apse2 ! nave is ( five bays )\t a tri=ium or cl]e/ory1 & ! int]ior1 9 consequ5ce1 is v d>k1 heavy & gloomy4 ,9 x is ! tomb ( ,ar*bi%op ,b]n>do1 #abdb4 ,! cloi/] at "o "t mu/ h be5 exceptionally f9e1 b alas6 only n9e ar*es n[ rema92 & ! :ole edifice is ( ! fa/-crumbl+ away type n uncommon 9 ! c\ntry4 ,! f9e ,plaza ,mayor1 or ,plaza ,alfonso ,doce1 is b\nd$ on ! nor? by ! huge ,hospice erect$ by ,enrique de ,egas = ,f]d9& & ,isabella = ! use ( poor pilgrims4 ,! royal coat-(-arms is 9 evid5ce ov] ! entrance portal1 enri*$1 9 addition1 ) figures ( sa9ts & pilgrims4 ,! massive cornice has a c\rse ( heavy *a9 "w & ! ball decoration s common 9 ,tol$o4 ,?is huge pile ( build+s is n[ us$ z a hospital4 ,x is divid$ into f\r c\rts ) f\nta9s & is admirably adapt$ = its pres5t use4 ,! small *apel is "o ( ! gems ( ,santiago4 ,! ro( spr+s f f\r ar*es ) ,go?ic /atues & ni*es clu/]$ r\nd a c5tral column4 ,on ! we/ side ( ! ,plaza /&s ! great ,sem9>io f\nd$ 9 #aggg = ! education ( "y prie/s4 ,! gr\nd floor is n[ occupi$ z ! ,ayuntami5to ( ,santiago4 ,to ! s\? is ! ,collegio de ,san ,g]nimo1 ) a rem>kable e>ly doorway4 ,! college 0 kn[n z ,pan y ,s>d9a f ! pov]ty ( its accommodation4 ,s>d9es1 ! /aple indu/ry ( ,vigo & o!r coa/ t[ns ( ! di/rict1 are ! *eape/ food obta9able1 h5ce ! appellation4 ,santiago is delightfully situat$ amid/ hea!r-clad hills1 ! l[] slopes ( :i* are well wood$ ) oak1 fir1 & eucalyptus4 ,great b\ld]s ( granite /& out l ! monoli?s ( prehi/oric ages4 ,_m a pleasant walk ?r\gh ! purple hea!r reveal$ to me a l&scape su* z "o sees 9 p>ts ( ,cornwall & ,scotl&4 ,! grey city ) its r$-til$ ro(s1 its huge des]t$ mona/ic build+s1 ! _m spires & domes ( ! ,ca!dral & o!r *ur*es1 all set 9 pat*es ( brilliant gre5 mead[s & maize fields look p>ticul>ly beautiful f ,monte ,p$roso1 a f9e vantage po9t surm\nt$ by a huge ,calv>y4 ,! climate is comp>atively moi/1 f]ns ( all sorts gr[ 9 ! %ade ( g>d5 walls1 & brack5 is ?ick 9 ! oak woods4 ,! ,galician is well fav\r$ by ,nature1 & be+ a pati5t1 h>d-work+ man ( n mu* m5tal capacity1 v pi\s & an ard5t advocate ( small hold+s1 gets ?r\gh life ) a cont5t$ _s4 ,he is v close & kn[s ! value ( a peseta4 ,un=tunately he is look$ d[n ^u by ! ,ca/ilian1 & ! t]m ,gallego is r "o ( abuse ?an respect4 ,driv5 to emigration by ! subdivision ( l& :i* _c support m ?an ^? :o own & "w x n[1 he goes s\? 9 great numb]s & is ! tru/$ conci]ge 9 _m a l>ge h\se & hotel 9 ,madrid & else:]e4 ,! ,panama ,canal too attracts him f 8 native hills1 9 fact ! ,gallego is to be met ) :]ev] ,spani% is ! spok5 language4 ,,tuy ,! tra9 deposit$ me "o morn+ at ?is little fronti] t[n4 ,x 0 v hot1 & x 0 ,sunday4 ,! only port] 9 ! /ation volunte]$ to c>ry my bag to ! ,fonda1 s we jo9$ a long file ( peasants & tramp$ up ! du/y road to ! old ,go?ic capital :i* /&s spl5didly situat$ above ! riv] ,m9ho4 ,f a di/ance ! ,ca!dral rises l a =t1 capp+ ! :ite h\ses & br[n ro(s :i* are t]rac$ bel[4 ,at "o "t 9 ! f> away pa/ ,tuy 0 a t[n ( great importance4 ,greek rema9s h be5 dug up "h1 b hi/ory does n g fur!r back ?an tolian ,diom$e1 ! son ( ,tydeus1 :o f\nd$ :at became "u ,k+ ,witiza ! ,go?ic capital4 ,?is 0 9 ! ye> #gjj4 ,ordoo ,i4 rebuilt x two hundr$ ye>s lat]1 & ,i did n f9d x difficult to trace ! massive granite walls :i* %elt]$ ! inhabitants1 & pres]v$ x z ! mo/ important city ( ^! p>ts4 ,truly a cr[n to ! =tress1 ! ca/ellat$ walls ( ! ,ca!dral give x a m>tial air4 ,! nave ( five bays is e>ly po9t$1 ) a bl9d tri=ium & block$ up cl]e/ory4 ,s n>r[ & d>k are ! aisles & s massive ! columns :i* support ! f9e vault+ ( ! ro(1 t ,i c\ld nev] get rid ( ! feel+ t ,i 0 9 "s great hall ( an anci5t ca/le4 ,x only want$ a few halb]di]s or m5-at-arms1 in/ead ( ! black-g>b$ peasant wom5 kneel+ at ! diff]5t alt>s1 to make ! illusion p]fect4 ,! transepts1 :i* h aisles1 are ,romanesque ) an e>ly po9t$ tri=ium4 ,aft] ! great e>?quake at ,lisbon _m /r5g!n+ additions 7 made to ! int]ior1 block+ out mo/ ( ! light4 ,9 ! case ( ! aisles ar*es 7 run up at diff]5t int]vals ) no s5se ( proportion1 q hap-haz>d1 & creat+ a v mu* askew appe>ance 9 ?is "p ( ! build+4 ,transoms 7 built across ! nave to add to ! disfigurem5t ( "o ( ! mo/ p]fect little ,ca!drals 9 ,spa94 ,! we/ doorway is v f9e1 ) f\r deta*$ columns on ei!r side1 ?us =m+ a n>r[ por*4 ,! upp] half ( ^! columns ea* consi/s ( a good figure ( a sa9t ^: feet re/ on a devil4 ,9 ! tympanum are good reliefs & a well-cut ,adoration ( ! ,magi4 ,! ar*ivolt is sev5-fold & is an excell5t piece ( ri* c>v+4 ,all is granite1 & all is solemn1 q 9 keep+ ) ?is h>d mat]ial4 ,illu/ration3 ,,tuy ,! ,cloi/] ,c\rt1 r\nd :i* runs a mo/ beautiful arcade ( e>ly po9t$ "w ) deta*$ %afts1 has un=tunately fall5 into decay4 ,b ! *>m+ little g>d5 9 ! c5tre some:at comp5sates = ?is4 ,:5 ,i /roll$ 9 ! sil5ce 0 only brok5 by ! coo+ ( doves & ! hum ( bees4 ,! sun seem$ to f9d 8 way into e nook & cranny1 & "h1 ?\ght ,i1 is peace4 ,away beyond ! out] wall1 a wall :i* is "p ( ! old def5ce ( ,ordoo's day1 is ! road to ,portugal4 ,pass+ ?r\gh v9ey>ds x rea*es ! riv] a mile di/ant & crosses ! wat] by a v f9e bridge4 ,x 0 f ?is road t ,i made my sket* ( ! qua9t old-_w t[n4 ,d[n by ! riv] at ! end ( ! "o broad /reet t ,tuy possesses is ! old ,conv5t ( ,santo ,dom+o4 ,n[ a b>rack1 x /ill keeps its gr& ,transitional *ur*4 ,! *ancel is extremely f9e & among its _m tombs a knight 9 arm\r ) 8 lady at 8 side ,i ?\ght ! be/4 ,on ! grassy plat=m 9 front ( ! *ur* ,i sp5t "o or two pleasant ev5+s4 ,! riv] fl[s bel[ & ! m\nta9s ( ,portugal rise sublimely f ! opposite bank4 ,i 0 decid$ly pleas$ ) my %ort soj\rn 9 ?is typical ,spani% t[n1 ! wond]ful position ( :i*1 "r on ! fronti] ov]look+ ano!r l&1 makes x "o ( ,spa9's mo/ unique ,ca!dral cities4 ,,or5se ,9 ! gold di/rict1 su* is ! mean+ ( ,or5se4 ,9 ,roman days x 0 ! headqu>t]s = work+ ! gold 9 :i* ! di/rict ab\nd$4 ,?ree w>m spr+s1 situat$ close to ! road :i* leads out ( ! t[n to ! s\?-we/1 also br\ght fame to ,or5se1 ?\gh !y possess$1 app>5tly1 no m$ic9al prop]ties4 ,n[adays ! poor] classes use ! wat] = dome/ic purposes1 !reby sav+ fires4 ,9 ,visigo?ic times ,or5se 0 ! capital ( ! ,suevi1 & 0 ! sc5e ( ! r5unciation ( ,paganism by ?is tribe4 ,besides its w>m spr+s ! t[n boa/s ( two o!r wond]s1 its bridge & its ,ca!dral4 ,! =m] is c]ta9ly a gr& piece ( "w4 ,! c5tre ar* rises "o hundr$ & ?irty-five feet above ! riv] ,m9ho1 ) a magnific5t span ( "o hundr$ & =ty feet4 ,( ! six rema9+ ar*es "s are po9t$ & "s are r\nd4 ,! ,ca!dral is a mo/ int]e/+ /ructure1 m's ! pity x is s little kn[n4 ,built on an artificial plat=m to ?r[ x out f ! hillside1 x rises well above ! neighb\r+ ro(s4 ,silv]smi?s & metal work]s ply _! trades 9 ! d>k %ops betwe5 ! buttresses :i* hold up ?is plat=m on ?ree sides4 ,!re is no?+ mu* to attract "o 9 ! ext]ior ( ! ,ca!dral except ! ,go?ic nor? & s\? doors4 ,!y bo? h r\nd$ ar*es ) good figures 9 ! jambs & ar*ivolts4 ,! s\? is ! bett] ( ! two1 z ! nor? be>s traces ( alt]ation1 ! case 9 ! :ole appe>ance ( ! ext]ior4 ,a ?ird door op5s 9 ! second bay we/ ( ! nor? aisle1 & is approa*$ f ! /reet bel[ by /eps lead+ up betwe5 two %ops4 ,! massive nor?-we/ t[] is adjo9+ & /&s ov] p]haps half a doz5 small rooms :]e all day long ! musical tap ( ! metal work]s' hamm]s are he>d4 ,! side *apels ( ! int]ior are all recess$1 & /&+ 9 ! s\?-we/ corn] ( ! ,ca!dral ,i obta9$ an un9t]rupt$ view = my sket* along ! s\? aisle into ! apse4 ,!re is no tri=ium 9 ! nave1 b a beautiful lancet cl]e/ory enhances bo? ?is & ! aisles4 ,i ?\ght ! octagon at ! cross+ extremely good4 ,two r[s ( lights1 "o above ! o!r1 h an int]ior gall]y ) an unobtrusive balu/rade r\nd ea*4 ,! support+ corbels are well-cut bosses4 ,! sp&rils betwe5 ! ar*es are recess$ ) well-c>v$ figures ( angels & ar*angels play+ on musical in/rum5ts4 ,( c\rse ?is octagon be>s no comp>ison ) t at ,burgos1 x is mu* simpl] & mu* small]1 b has a t5tative beauty ( its own4 ,illu/ration3 ,,or5se4 ,,9 ,,! ,,ca!dral ,! transepts are ( e>li] date1 & h be5 alt]$1 ?\gh n injudici\sly4 ,! coro is small1 v d>k & solemn1 & 9 ?is respect be>s fav\rable comp>ison ) _m ano!r :i* may be f> f9]4 ,its reja1 l t ( ! ,capilla ,mayor1 is a v good example ( wr\ght & hamm]$ iron-"w1 & does cr$it to ! skill ( ^? :o no d\bt sat 9 ! little %ops bel[ giv+ _! life-"w to ! adornm5t ( ! *ur* above4 ,! ,high ,alt> is a mass ( silv] ) a backgr\nd ( glitt]+ c>v+ :i* =ms ! gild$ retablo4 ,! w>m yell[ ( ! ,ca!dral /one & ! "t-worn col\r ( ! figures :i* decorate ?is retablo h a v pleas+ effect to ! eye4 ,! a%es ( ,santa ,eufemia1 ,or5se's patroness1 re/ b5ea? h] effigy :i* /&s to ! s\? ( ! ,high ,alt>1 & ^? ( ,,ss4 ,facundo & ,primivo "u !irs on ! nor? side4 ,santa ,eufemia's body 0 f\nd by a poor %eph]dess ly+ out on ! m\nta9 slopes ( ! ,portuguese bord]1 & 0 br\ght "h to re/4 ,! ,ca!dral is full ( f9e tombs1 among :i* t ( ,c>d9al ,qu9tata 9 ,c>r>a m>ble is ! be/4 ,x is plac$ on ! nor? side ( ! *ancel fac+ a mu* e>li] ,go?ic tomb ) a well-c>v$ canopy :i* /&s on ! s\? side4 ,! pres5t edifice 0 f\nd$ 9 #abbj by ,bi%op ,lor5zo1 displac+ ! old] *ur* erect$ 9 #eej & d$icat$ to ,sa9t ,m>t94 ,w&]+ at r&om up ! n>r[ /reets :i* cov]$ ! hill ,i f\nd myself outside ! ,conv5t ( ,san ,francisco4 ,l s _m in/itutions ( a k9dr$ nature x is n[ a b>rack1 & difficult ( access4 ,h[ev]1 ,i manag$ to get 9 & f\nd ! *ief int]e/ c5tr$ 9 ! cloi/]s4 ,!y are beautiful relics ( ! ?irte5? c5tury4 ,sixty ar*es complete ! arcade1 ) c\pl$ %afts /&+ free4 ,! capitals are well c>v$ & ! dog-too? m\ld+ above !m has n suff]$ mu* f ! ravages ( "t4 ,"h1 z 9 o!r t[ns :]e money 9 late m$ival days 0 sc>ce1 x is pleasant to f9d unt\*$ rema9s ( an e>li] pa/4 ,! /reets are mo/ly arcad$ & v tortu\s & qua9t4 ,! m>ket is held on ! ,plaza ( ! ,ca!dral1 & fruit v5dors sit 9 ! sun on ! /eps :i* lead into ! ,holy ,fane4 ,! ,alam$as are ?rong$ at night ) a cr[d :i*1 = ,spa91 seem$ to take life s]i\sly4 ,i _h f9i%$ my usual aft]-d9n] /roll "o ev5+1 & return$ to my hotel4 ,x 0 a balmy night & ,i pull$ my *air out on to ! balcony4 ,! lights 9 ! cottages on ! hill opposite w5t out "o by "o1 & away d[n bel[1 among/ ! d>k foliage ( a v9ey>d1 ,i he>d ! s\nd ( a guit>4 ,a voice brea!d out a love song1 & once m ,i felt ! romance ( ! ,s\?--t indescribable feel+ :i* comes ov] "o :5 n]ves are attune to en*ant+ surr\nd+s4 ,,a/orga ,no1 y won't f9d mu* = y\r bru% to d 9 ,a/orga1 seor--0 ! answ] to a qu]y address$ to a fell[ pass5g] 9 ! tra94 ,i fe> he 0 n f> wrong1 ?\gh ,i knew ) ! ,ca!dral ,i %\ld n be disappo9t$4 ,x 0 a wet ev5+1 & ,i l&$ at ! /ation 9 ! d>k2 gave my traps to a port]1 & f\nd myself aft] a tramp ?r\gh ! mud at ! only ,fonda 9 ! place4 ,my baggage 0 deposit$ 9 a sort ( glorifi$ cupbo>d conta9+ a b$4 ,! small w9d[ _h no glass1 & ,i discov]$ ! next day t x op5$ on to ! /ables4 ,i object$ to ^! qu>t]s1 & lat] on 9 ! ev5+ my belong+s 7 mov$ into a room j vacat$ by "s "o :o _h gone on to ,madrid 9 el rapido4 ,! next morn+ ,i made my way to ! ,ca!dral4 ,x /&s well & q isolat$1 except = ! ,new ,art ,bi%op's ,palace :i* is 9 c\rse ( erection4 ,! ,ca!dral is late ,go?ic1 built 9 ! fifte5? & sixte5? c5turies on ! site ( a =m] *ur*4 ,! int]ior is l(ty & v beautiful1 ?\gh spoilt by a bad trascoro 9 execrable ta/e & q out ( keep+ ) ! elegant columns ( ! nave4 ,?is consi/s ( sev5 bays4 ,! bases ( ! pi]s run up t5 feet or m1 & resemble ! lat] additions to ,leon ,ca!dral & ^? at ,ovi$o4 ,! int]sect+ m\ld+s on !m are ! v la/ /yle ( ,go?ic "w & exemplify ! beg9n+ ( a m florid ta/e4 ,!re is no tri=ium4 ,! cl]e/ory w9d[s are ( unusual height1 z at ,leon1 & are fill$ ) v f9e glass4 ,! aisles are also v l(ty4 ,! *apels atta*$ to t on ! nor? h _! vault+ c>ri$ up to ! height ( ! aisle1 a v unusual feature4 ,all ! w9d[s on ?is side1 ) "o exception1 are block$4 ,9 ! s\? aisle ! vault+ ( ! lat]al *apels is l[4 ,! w9d[s are glaz$ & conta9 good glass2 & 9 ! fir/ *apel f ! we/ is a v f9e e>ly ,g]man retablo4 ,! transepts are ( "o bay only4 ,! s\? has p]haps ! be/ glass 9 a ,ca!dral :i* is specially ri* 9 ?is4 ,illu/ration3 ,,a/orga ,!re is mu* good iron "w 9 ! diff]5t rejas1 & ! walnut sill]ia 9 ! coro are exceptionally well c>v$4 ,b ! gem ( ! ,ca!dral is und\bt$ly ! magnific5t retablo ov] ! ,high ,alt>4 ,its au?or1 ,gasp> ,bec]ra1 0 a native ( ,baeza1 & /udi$ 9 ,italy "u ,mi*ael ,angelo4 ,x is 8 ma/]piece1 & well m]its ?is title4 ,( ! f\rte5 panels1 ,! ,disputation & ,asc5sion are ! be/4 ,! ext]ior ( ?is l(ty *ur* is mu* enhanc$ by its fly+ buttresses4 ,! we/ faade is good ,r5aissance "w1 ) flank+ t[]s1 only "o ( :i* is1 h[ev]1 f9i%$4 ,a fly+ buttress connects !m ) ! c5tre ( ! faade z at ,leon1 9 fact ,i c\ld n help draw+ comp>ison1 :5 ,i knew !m bo?1 betwe5 ^! two ,ca!drals4 ,! w>m r$ /one ( :i* ?is at ,a/orga is built has wea!r$ mo/ beautifully1 & contra/s ) ! grey balu/rade compos$ ( figures hold+ h&s--a v qua9t device1 by ! way--:i* adorns ! ridge above ! cl]e/ory4 ,at ! s\?-ea/ corn]1 in/ead ( ! usual p9nacle1 a huge wea!rcock /&s4 ,x is a wood5 /atue ( ,p$ro ,mato1 a celebrat$ ,m>agato1 9 ! dress ( 8 tribe4 ,la ,m>agat]ia is a t]ritory ( small ext5t 9 ! middle ( :i* ,a/orga is situat$4 ,! inhabitants1 ! ,m>agatos1 mix ) no "o4 ,!y live exclusively to !mselves1 pres]ve _! co/ume & _! cu/oms1 & nev] m>ry out ( _! own clan4 ,! m5 hire !mselves out z c>ri]s1 ! wom5 /ay at home & "w4 ,x is suppos$ t z !y h _m ,arabic words /ill 9 use1 !y are a remnant ( ! ,moori% occupation left beh9d :5 ,*ri/ian armies f9ally swept ! ,infidel back into ! s\?4 ,?is may be s1 = ! ,moors are pa/ ma/]s at c>avan "w1 & ! ,m>agatos are ! great c>ri]s ( ,spa94 ,:5 on ! road _! /r+s ( mules take prec$5ce1 & ev]y?+ cle>s out ( _! way4 ,! m5 dress 9 loose baggy knick]s & ! wom5 attire !mselves 9 %ort r$ or can>y-col\r$ skirts ) gre5 or light blue l9+1 "o pleat rema9s op5 & %[s ei!r ( ^! col\rs4 ,!y we> :ite /ock+s1 black %oes1 & v gaily-col\r$ h&k]*iefs cov] _! heads4 ,on a ,sunday !y sw>m into ! t[n1 go+ (f 9 ! ev5+ at sund[n to _! diff]5t villages 9 picturesque *att]+ ?rongs4 ,twice a ye> ! :ole tribe assembles at ! fea/s ( ,corpus ,*ri/i & ! ,asc5sion1 :5 !y dance = an h\r1 el ,caizo1 a dance :i* if an outsid] d>e jo9 9 is imm$iately /opp$4 ,i _h he>d a great deal ( ! dignity ( ! ,spani>d1 be=e ,i w5t to ,spa91 & _h fail$ to f9d t ?is reputation 0 at all ju/ifi$1 except 9 ! case ( ! ,gu>dia ,civil1 until ,i came across ! ,m>agatos4 ,i f\nd !m to be among ! mo/ self-respect+ & c\rte\s folk t "o c\ld meet any:]e2 !y c]ta9ly are among/ ! mo/ int]e/+ ( ! _m di/9ct tribes t p ! ,p59sula4 ,a/orga1 ! ,a/uria ,augu/a ( ! ,romans1 is describ$ by ,pl9y z a magnific5t city4 ,x 0 once ! capital ( s\!rn ,a/uria & 0 always an important outpo/ =tress4 ,z indicative ( its /r5g? ,i may m5tion t ,a/orga be>s = arms a bran* ( oak4 ,l ,leon1 ! importance ( its position z a base1 bo? = ^? :o liv$ 9 ! m\nta9s to ! nor? & we/1 z well z = ^? :o came f ! pla91 0 always appreciat$1 & 0 = ev] a bone ( cont5tion betwe5 ! inhabitants ( ^! di/ricts4 ,! ,bi%opric 0 f\nd$ 9 #gdg by ,alfonso el ,catolico1 b no man ( note has ev] be5 appo9t$ to ! ,see z f> z ,i c\ld discov]4 ,inde$1 ,a/orga is ano!r ( ^? old ,spani% cities :i* are pass$ by 9 ! tra91 ) ! rem>k--,h[ nice ! old walls look1 ,i d wi% we _h "t to /op "h4 ,a saunt] r\nd ! walls ,i mu/ own is v disappo9t+4 ,x is s evid5t t b little v5]ation is felt1 or respect %[n1 = any antiquities or hi/orical associations4 ,9 _m places !y h be5 pull$ ab\t = ! sake ( ! build+ mat]ials !y yield$4 ,!y are ! rubble heaps ( ,a/orga & h fall5 into sad decay4 ,"o portion is1 h[ev]1 pres]v$4 ,9 ! s\? corn]1 :]e a pretty little paseo g>d5 af=ds %ade & a pleasant prom5ade1 a spl5did view is obta9$ ov] ! hills & f> away4 ,"h1 at any rate1 re/oration has be5 und]tak5 = ! sake ( ! common gr\nd :]e m5 & wom5 walk1 z cu/om dictates1 e ev5+4 ,at ! spot :]e ! ,ca!dral /&s a great deal ( demolition has tak5 place1 & ev5 to-day ! huge new *teau-l palace ( ! bi%op1 n[ 9 process ( erection1 closes 9 a f9e space & detracts f ! little antiquity :i* is left 9 ?is corn] ( ,a/orga4 ,su* is mod]n ta/e 9 ,spa94 ,besides its walls1 ,a/orga is celebrat$ = its mantecadas1 small squ>e sponge-cakes1 neatly fold$ 9 pieces ( greas$ pap]1 :i* f9d _! way all ov] ?is "p ( ! c\ntry2 b ! f>!r (f y f9d !m ! less d !y resemble ! orig9als1 & ^! are v good4 ,,zamora ,travell+ ?r\gh ! great pla9 ( ,leon by tra9 is apt to become int5sely monoton\s1 especially :51 z 9 ! case ( rea*+ ,zamora1 fate decre$ t ,i %\ld sit bak+ = h\rs 9 ! sl[e/ ( all1 ! undesirable m]cantilo4 ,v few villages enliv5$ ! yell[ l&scape1 :i* b>e ( vegetation lay bli/]+ "u ! midday sun2 ^? t 7 visible 7 all tapia built ) unglaz$ lights1 & seem$ to h gr[n outw>ds f ! little br[n-wall$ *ur*es 9 _! mid/4 ,on ris+ gr\nd beyond ! limits ( ^! sad-look+ hamlets1 ,i c\ld see ! dwell+s ( ! poore/ ( ! poor4 ,dug out ( ! bank-sides1 !y resemble rabbit holes m ?an any?+ else4 ,a door gives light1 v5tilation & access to ! int]ior1 a t9y *imney /ick+ out ( ! gr\nd above c>ries (f ! extra fumes ( smoke4 ,life inside mu/ be ne>] t ( ! bea/s ?an t ( any o!r race 9 ,europe2 & z ! sl[ m]cantilo crawl$ along ,i _h pl5ty ( "t to note ! /unt$ gr[? & we>i$ mi5 ( ^? ^: day ( toil ends 9 ^! burr[s "u ! e>?4 ,9 _m places1 ! ye>'s v9tage is /or$ 9 ^! subt]ranean holes4 ,at la/ ! tra9 crept into ! /ation & ,i read ! "n ( my de/9ation on its wall4 ,zamora adds ano!r to ! li/ ( ^? v int]e/+ old cities ( ,spa9 :i* /ill h a remnant ( _! anci5t walls left /&+4 ,kn[n at "o "t z ,ocellum ,duri1 ,! eye ( ! ,d\ro1 f its /rategical position on t b>ri] riv]1 x /ill be>s _m traces ( a glori\s pa/4 ,( old1 an outpo/ = def5ce aga9/ ! ,infidel ( ! s\?1 ) its natural b>ri]1 ,zamora nev]!less *ang$ h&s _m times4 ,! v]aci\s *ronicl] records h[ 9 #ici ,ramiro ,,ii4 came to ! city's relief & slew =ty ?\s& ,moors--_! :ole =ce1 9 fact1 to a man6--only to be rev5g$ a few ye>s lat] by ! all-conqu]+ ,almanzor4 ,f]d9& ,i4 9 #ajfe rebuilt ! def5ces :i* ?is r$\btable w>rior _h levell$ & pres5t$ ! city to 8 daught] ,urraca1 ^: son1 ,alfonso ,,vi41 0 ! fir/ ,k+ ( unit$ ,leon & ,ca/ile4 ,zamora figures1 too1 9 ! ,cid's meteoric life4 ,he appo9t$ ,g]onimo1 8 confessor1 :o lies buri$ 9 ,salamanca1 to ! ,bi%opric1 & :5 ,san*o besieg$ ! place1 x be+ !n held by ,urraca1 ! def5ce 0 s excell5t t no se tom ,zamora en una hora 7,zamora 0 n tak5 9 "o h\r7 became a prov]b4 ,x 0 at ?is siege t five ,moori% %eiks br\ght ! ,cid tribute & salut$ him z ,campeador4 ,!re are m tangible rema9s ( ! qua9t old city's importance to be f\nd 9 its ,ca!dral & /reets ?an its prov]bs & anecdotes4 ,"h is ! h\se ( ,urraca1 ) an almo/ oblit]at$ inscription ov] ! gateway--,afu]a6 ,afu]a6 ,rodrigo el sob]bio ,ca/ellano--cull$ f ! ballad ( ! ,cid1 & ref]r+ to 8 exclusion f ! place4 ,9 ! *ur* ( ,san ,p$ro y ,ildefonso are a c\ple ( f9e bronze-gilt %r9es conta9+ ! rema9s ( ,,ss4 ,ildefonso & ,atilano4 ,! ,romanesque *ur* ( ! ,templ>s1 ,la ,magdal5a1 dates f ! twelf? c5tury4 ,its rose w9d[ is =m$ ) small columns l ! ,temple ,*ur* 9 ,london2 & )9 are "s beautiful tombs4 ,! ,hospital is a good build+ ) an ov]hang+ por*1 v effectively col\r$ & hav+ ! appe>ance ( glaz$ tiles4 ,_m old h\ses ( ! nobility n[ slumb] tranquilly 9 sl[ decay1 & ,zamora1 l s _m o!r ,spani% t[ns ( its class1 seems left beh9d 9 ! mod]n hurry ( life2 & ?is is "o ( its greate/ *>ms1 ! *>m t is s typical ( old ,spa94 ,! ,ca!dral abuts on to ! city wall & is almo/ surr\nd$ by a b>e piece ( gr\nd1 :]e ! rema9s ( dismantl$ =tifications give a des]t$ & =lorn air to ! v unecclesia/ical aspect ( ! ext]ior4 ,i made a sket* among ^! ru9s & c\ld n help feel+ ! result look$ m l an ,ea/]n f>m enclosure ?an a really f9e ,ca!dral4 ,!re 0 ! huge unf9i%$ squ>e t[]1 bak$ a brilliant yell[1 ! cimborio & dome1 ) its eight curi\s little domes1 all ro($ 9 cem5t1 & a copy (1 if n contempor>y )1 ! same 9 ! old ,ca!dral ( ,salamanca2 ! l[ mud walls & almo/ flat ro(s2 a p>ty ( peasants 9 a sort ( nomad encampm5t1 innum]able f[ls peck+ at ! du/--:at m c\ld y h to rem9d "o ( ! ,ea/4 ,! sun 0 broil+1 & no?+ di/urb$ ?is bit ( ! ,spa9 ( long ago4 ,! ext]ior ( ! ,ca!dral has be5 mu* m>r$ by ! poor ,r5aissance nor? faade1 n visible 9 my draw+1 & a t[] ) a slate ro(4 ,! s\? por* is1 h[ev]1 intact1 & f x1 = ! build+ /&s high above ! ,d\ro1 ! view mu/ h be5 gr& be=e ! ,bi%op's ,palace 0 built & oblit]at$ ! :ole prospect4 ,a doz5 /eps1 n>r[+ z !y approa* ! portal1 lead up to ! door :i* is surr\nd$ by f\r good r\nd ar*es ) scroll m\ld+s ( simple design4 ,inside ?is ,i f\nd myself 9 ! s\? transept4 ,illu/ration3 ,,zamora4 ,,! ,,ca!dral ,! int]ior1 ) ! exception ( t portion ea/ ( ! cross+1 :i* is poor ,r5aissance ) p]p5dicul> vault+1 is exce$+ly massive4 ,! nave is b tw5ty-five feet 9 wid?1 ! columns :i* support ! bays are t5 feet ?r\gh2 ! aisles are v n>r[1 b s good are ! proportions ( all ^! t ?is m9iature ,ca!dral is "o ( ! f9e/ ,romanesque *ur*es 9 ! c\ntry4 ,! cimborio is r\nd 9 plan ) sixte5 w9d[s f :i* ! ribs ( ! vault+ spr+4 ,un=tunately ! columns h be5 decorat$ ) a spiral patt]n ( a *ocolate col\r1 q de/roy+ ! beauty & simple gr&eur ( a feature :i* = simplicity ranks next to t ( ! ,cat$ral ,vieja at ,salamanca4 ,9 ! ,capilla del ,c>d5al at ! we/ end ( ! nave is a v f9e retablo divid$ into six panels pa9t$ by ,gallegos1 ^: signature is on ! c5tral "o4 ,i 0 exam9+ ?is "o morn+ :5 an old prie/ pass$ ?r\gh into ! adjo9+ sacri/y4 ,he /opp$ & expla9$ ! subjects to me1 tak+ p>ticul> int]e/ 9 ?is :5 he le>nt ,i 0 a pa9t] & :at my mission to ,zamora 04 ,i _c =get 8 c\rtesy & pride :ile %[+ me "s ( ! treasures ! ,ca!dral possesses1 & %>$ 8 regret t ! wond]ful tape/ries 7 only on view at c]ta9 fe/ivals4 ,9 ?is *apel are "s good tombs ( ! great ,rom]o family1 o!rs too ( int]e/ are 9 ! ,capilla de ,san ,miguel1 & ! f9e/ ( all t ( ,canon ,juan de ,grado has ! g5ealogy ( ! ,virg9 sculptur$ above ! effigy ( ! ,canon4 ,i 0 v grateful = ! seats :i* "h are available = a re/ & quiet exam9ation ( ! *ur*4 ,9 ,burgos is ! only o!r ,ca!dral :]e x is possible to sit & gaze4 ,,leon ,situat$ on ! edge ( ! great pla9 :i* /ret*es away s\? to ! ,si]ra de ,gr$os & beyond to ,tol$o1 ,leon s]v$ z a sort ( buff] t[n betwe5 ! ,highl&]s ( ! nor? & ! dwell]s on ! ,ca/ilian upl&s4 ,! headqu>t]s ( ! sev5? ,roman ,legion1 f :i* ! "n is d]iv$1 x may be describ$ z a great =tress ( bygone days4 ,a/orga1 "s ?irty miles we/w>ds1 be+ an outpo/ 9 t direction no d\bt help$ to pres]ve ,leon f ! ravages ( ! ,galician ,visigo?s4 ,! ,romans held _! =tress = five hundr$ ye>s until ,leovigild 9 #ehf captur$ x aft] a long & /r5u\s siege4 ,s highly 0 ! position & /r5g? ( ^! two t[ns appreciat$1 t :5 ,witiza1 ! ,k+ ( ! ,go?s1 issu$ a decree levell+ all def5sive works to ! gr\nd1 !y 7 exempt$ & _! =tifications pres]v$4 ,! ,moors held ,leon = a v %ort spell1 & !n only z a def5ce aga9/ nor!rn invasion4 ,:5 ,ordoo ,i4 desc5d$ f 8 m\nta9 fa/nesses & drove !m out1 ,leon *ang$ front ) its new occupants1 & became a /ronghold to be held at all co/s aga9/ invad]s f ! s\?4 ,! great ,almanzor1 9 8 victori\s m>* nor? ) ! soldi]y ( ,cordova1 swept away all opposition & ?is buff] t[n 0 sack$4 ,h[ev]1 aft] 8 defeat at ,calatanavor & subsequ5t dea?1 ! bann] ( ,*ri/ 0 once m unfurl$ to ! breeze f :at little 0 left ( its walls4 ,^! 7 almo/ entirely rebuilt ( tapia & cob-/ones by ,alfonso ,v41 s9ce ^: "t !y h rema9$ or sl[ly fall5 away4 ,leon /&s 9 a v]dant pa/ure valley int]sect$ by _m /reams & %ady roads l9$ ) tall popl>s4 ,! fields on ei!r side are divid$ f "o ano!r by h$ges & will[ trees1 ?ick scrub foll[s ! /reams & gr[s d[n to ! wat] edge1 & walk+ 9 ^! pleasant places x 0 n difficult to imag9e myself back 9 ,engl&4 ,! city itself is really little bett] ?an a big village1 & consid]+ ! important "p x has play$ 9 ! hi/ory ,spa91 seems sadly neglect$ & left out 9 ! cold4 ,?is1 too1 despite ! fact t x is an important junction & railway c5tre4 ,!re are no build+s ( any pres5t importance1 & ^? t once c\ld lay claim to ?is are 9 a /ate ( decay4 ,x is only on ,sundays & m>ket days1 :5 ! peasants 9 picturesque co/ume & gay col\rs come 91 t ,leon c boa/ ( ! smalle/ animation4 ,i rememb] "o ,sabba? ev5+ z ,i /ood on my balcony1 t vantage gr\nd f :i* "o sees all ! life ( ! place pass by 9 ! /reet bel[1 wat*+ ! folk p>ade up & d[n4 ,a milit>y b& disc\rs$ brassy music1 ! cr[d 0 pack$ z tight z s>d9es 9 a t91 :5 sudd5ly ! toot1 toot ( a motor horn 0 he>d above ! cla% ( cymbals & boom ( ! drum4 ,a l>ge c> came d[n a by-/reet opposite1 turn$ %>ply & *>g$ ! cr[d4 ,! ,spani>d is ( an excitable temp]am5t1 l\d cries ( disapproval1 & screams f ! g5tl] sex dr[n$ all else4 ,! *auffeur discov]$ 8 mi/ake none too soon & attempt$ to turn ! c>4 ,at ?is ! upro> grew l\d] & he br\ght x to a /&/ill4 ,y\?s climb$ ! /eps1 boys hung on beh9d1 ,toot1 toot w5t ! horn2 ! b&ma/]1 ) an eye to ! situation1 wav$ 8 bton m en]getically ?an ev]1 ! big drum boom$1 ! trombones blurt$ out = all !y 7 wor?1 b ! hoot+ & :i/l+ dr[n$ ev]y?+4 ,at la/ ! c> began to back & became dis5gag$1 ! *auffeur adroitly turn$1 & />t$ d[n ! /reet foll[$ by ! noisi] elem5ts ( ! cr[d ev5tually pull+ up at a caf1 j out ( ! p>ade zone4 ,9 ,leon z else:]e1 fa%ion dictates a limit to ! walk 9 ei!r direction & ! *auffeur _h /opp$ beyond ?is4 ,! two occupants ( ! c> got out 9 a v unconc]n$ mann]1 sat d[n at a table & ord]$ a dr9k4 ,= at lea/ a qu>t] ( an h\r1 :ile ^! two 7 tak+ _! c(fee1 ! cr[d /ood r\nd boo+1 :i/l+ & %\t+4 ,i d n ?9k ,i h ev] se5 any?+ cool] ?an ! way 9 :i*1 _! ?ir/ satisfi$1 & ! acc\nt settl$1 !y got up & walk$ sl[ly aft] ! c> :i* long ago _h disappe>$ out ( dang]4 ,by ?is "t1 despite ! pres5ce ( a c\ple ( ! ,gu>dia ,civil1 ! cr[d 0 excit$4 ,a c>t full ( peasant folk next essay$ ! p]ils ( ! ?or\ghf>e1 !y h[ev] got ?r\gh safely aft] mu* bad9age & fun4 ,no soon] _h !y gone1 ! b& meantime _h vani%$1 :5 out f a w9e %op came "s peasants ) ca/anets a little light-head$ = once4 ,!re 7 f\r ( !m1 two m5 & two wom54 ,!y imm$iately began a dance on ! pavem5t4 ,a r+ 0 =m$ & a /orm ( h&-clapp+ enc\rag$ !m1 = t5 m9utes !y foot$ x admirably4 ,m ca/anets appe>$ f some:]e & soon half ,leon 0 danc+ 9 ! middle ( ! ,calle4 ,! feeble-look+ policem51 :o _h be5 t]ribly worri$ ov] ! motor-c> incid5t1 ?ru/ out _! *e/s1 or tri$ to1 & beam$ all ov]4 ,! sc5e _h *ang$ f :at _h fir/ look$ v mu* l an ugly r[1 to "o ( pure enjoym5t1 !y 7 safe1 e "o else 0 out ( dang]1 & ,leon too 0 sav$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,leon4 ,,! ,,ca!dral ,! night ,i arriv$ 9 ,leon1 hav+ f9i%$ d9n]1 ,i left ! hotel & tak+ ! fir/ turn hap-haz>d w&]$ up ! /reet4 ,! electric lights 7 soon beh9d me & ,i f\nd myself 9 :at seem$ to be a huge des]t$ squ>e4 ,! d>k night 0 lit by milli>ds ( tw9kl+ />s1 & gaz+ upw>ds at !m my eye foll[$ ! l9e ( :at appe>$ to be imm5sely tall popl> trees4 ,i look$ aga91 ,i _h nev] se5 trees t col\r1 !n x sl[ly dawn$ on me t ,i 0 9 front ( ! great ,ca!dral4 ,sl[ly1 sl[ly z my eye became accu/om$ to ! d>k ,i made out tap]+ spires t met ! v />s !mselves emb$d$ 9 ! purple-blue sky1 an inf9itude ( p9nacles1 ) a wond]ful build+ b5ea?4 ,! my/]y ( a beautiful night conjures up all t is be/ 9 ?is c\ntry4 ,squalor & dirt are hidd52 "o's ?\ghts take flight & w&] back to ! ,spa9 ( old1 ! glori\s ,spa9 ( bygone days4 ,at mom5ts l ?is ,i c]ta9ly w\ld nev] h be5 surpris$ to he> ! clatt] ( ho(s & see a b& ( knights ) p5nons fly+ & arm\r gl9t+ appe> sudd5ly 9 ! semi-d>kness4 ,well1 ! days ( *ivalry h gone b ! romance ( a />ry night w nev] die4 ,! next morn+ ,i return$ eag] to discov] :at my impressions w\ld unfold4 ,mu* to my delight ,i f\nd ! re/oration ( ! ,ca!dral1 :i* ,i knew 0 9 progress1 s f> f9i%$ t n a s+le scaffold pole1 nor any rubbi% heaps ( old /ones 7 any:]e to be se54 ,extremely well h ! designs ( ,seor ,don ,juan ,madrazo be5 c>ri$ out1 & ! ,ca!dral to-day /&s a magnific5t *ur* & gr& monum5t ( ,*ri/ianity4 ,santa ,m>ia de ,regla is ! ?ird ,ca!dral :i* has exi/$ 9 ,leon4 ,! site ( ! fir/ is suppos$ to h be5 outside ! city walls4 ,! second 0 built :]e once /ood ! ,palace ( ,ordoo ,,ii41 & ?is _h be5 rais$ on gr\nd occupi$ by ,roman ba?s4 ,! pres5t edifice 0 f\nd$ 9 #aaij by ,bi%op ,manrique de ,l>a1 a scion ( a great family :i* 0 always 9 revolt1 b 0 n complet$ until ! e>ly "p ( ! f\rte5? c5tury4 ,) ,tol$o & ,burgos1 ,leon's ,ca!dral =ms ! gr\p ( ?ree great *ur*es t are di/9ctly ,fr5*1 & closely resemble ,ami5s & ,rheims4 ,x w\ld be difficult to f9d ano!r build+ ! int]ior ( :i* exce$$ ! col\r elegance & grace ( ?is airy /ructure4 ,illu/ration3 ,,leon4 ,,! ,,we/ ,,por* ,,( ,,! ,,ca!dral ,! we/ por* is ! f9e/ ,go?ic specim5 ( its k9d :i* exi/s 9 ,spa9 & recalls ^? ( ,notre ,dame de ,p>is & ! ,ca!dral at ,*>tres4 ,?ree ar*ways are support$ by cloi/]$ columns to :i* are atta*$ figures "u beautiful canopies4 ,! ar*ivolts & tympanum are cov]$ ) sculpture repres5t+ ! ,rew>d ( ! ,j & ,unju/1 ! ,nativity1 ,adoration1 ,flight 9 ,egypt1 & ,massacre ( ! ,innoc5ts4 ,all are extremely int]e/+1 _m ( ! figures be+ 9 contempor>y co/ume4 ,two gr& t[]s flank ! we/ faade1 ( :i* ! nor? is ! old] & "s ?irty feet less 9 height ?an its neighb\r4 ,bo? are surm\nt$ by spires1 t ( ! s\? be+ an excell5t example ( op5 filigree "w1 rivall+ ^? at ,burgos & v mu* bett] ?an t ( ,ovi$o4 ,betwe5 ^! t[]s & above ! por* is a p$im5t ) spires & a glori\s :eel w9d[1 und]nea? :i* is a r[ ( w9d[s t corresponds to ! tri=ium4 ,?is portion is "p ( ! late re/oration4 ,! s\? por* also has ?ree ar*es1 :i* h be5 well r5ovat$4 ,! c5tre "o alone has a door to admit into ! int]ior1 x is d\ble & surr\nd$ by figures 9 ! ar*ivolt ) reliefs 9 ! tympanum4 ,on ! c5tre column is a figure ( ,san ,froilan1 at "o "t ,bi%op ( ,leon4 ,a beautiful balu/rade foll[s ! sky-l9e ( ! :ole ,ca!dral4 ,?is is brok5 by _m p9nacles1 "s ( :i* are spiral1 ) o!rs on ! faades & f9i%+ ! supports ( ! fly+ buttresses1 give ! ext]ior a resemblance to a =e/ ( small spires4 ,! int]ior is a m>vel ( beauty & lightness4 ,! nave & aisles consi/ ( six bays1 no lat]al *apels disfigure ! latt] ) *irrigu]esque atrocities4 ,! tri=ium runs r\nd ! :ole ,ca!dral4 ,s clev]ly has ! spac+ "h be5 arrang$1 t ) ! cl]e/ory x makes "o magnific5t panel ( gorge\s light4 ,! w9d[s ( ?is1 =ty feet high1 7 at "o "t block$ up = safety4 ,!y n[ conta9 /a9$ glass1 & so> upw>ds to ! vault+ ( ! ro(4 ,e w9d[ 9 ! ,ca!dral is col\r$ & ! effect z ! sun /reams ?r\gh c well be imag9$4 ,no flamboyant retablo spoils ! simplicity ( ! ea/ end1 ! place ( :at might h be5 a j>r+ note amid/ ! ,go?ic "w be+ tak5 by good pa9t+s 9 flat gild$ frames4 ,x 0 ,seor ,madrazo's idea to remove ! coro f ! c5tre ( ! nave1 & _h ?is be5 done ,santa ,m>ia de ,regla w\ld h ga9$ imm5sely4 ,! c>v$ /alls are good1 & ! trascoro sculptur$ 9 :ite m>ble1 :i* age has ton$1 & pick$ out 9 gold1 is decid$ly a f9e "w4 ,among ! *apels 9 ! apse t ( ,la ,nue/ra ,seora del ,dado conta9s a miracul\s ,virg9 & ,*ild4 ,tradition tells t a gambl] :o _h lo/ heavily ?rew 8 dice at h] & smote h] on ! nose4 ,?is =?) bl$ copi\sly1 h5ce ! miracle & ! "n ( ,dado or die4 ,ano!r *apel conta9s ! tomb ( a great b5efactress ( ! ,ca!dral1 ! ,condesa ,san*a4 ,an expectant nephew1 see+ h] prop]ty sl[ly dw9dl+ 9 ! cause ( ! ,fai?1 put an end to 8 aunt1 & !reby met 8 own dea? by be+ pull$ asund] by horses to :i* he 0 ti$4 ,h[ev]1 ! *apels are n v int]e/+1 b ! tombs 9 ! ,ca!dral are4 ,( all ^! t ( ,ordoo ,,ii41 beh9d ! *ancel1 is c]ta9ly ! f9e/4 ,! k+ lies at full l5g? ) a h]ald at 8 head & a monk at 8 feet hold+ a scroll inscrib$ aspice4 ,he we>s 8 cr[n & c>ries ! royal emblems4 ,?is tomb 0 erect$ five hundr$ ye>s aft] ! k+'s dea?1 & is gu>d$ by a qua9t iron grille4 ,! cloi/]s1 ent]$ f a door 9 ! nor? transept1 are a jumble ( ,go?ic & ,r5aissance1 ) a ,romanesque arcade & a good deal ( plat]esque "w z well4 ,"s ( ! e>lie/ frescoes 9 ,spa9 are fa/ disappe>+ f ! walls4 ,!y illu/rate ev5ts 9 ! ,life ( ,*ri/1 & are 9 an e>ly ,italian /yle t places _! orig9 9 d\bt4 ,f ! we/]n spires to ! angul> ext]ior ( ! *evet1 a good idea is obta9$ ( ! beauty ( ! ,ca!dral z "o /&s 9 ^! cloi/]s1 & :5 !y1 too1 are re/or$ ! great "w begun 9 #ahfj w be f9i%$4 ,next to ! ,ca!dral1 & p]haps 9 a way m int]e/+1 is ! conv5t ( ,san ,isidoro el ,real4 ,?is1 ! ,escorial ( ,leon & ,ca/ile1 is a build+ :i* ,s\lt's soldi]s desecrat$ 9 a mo/ abom9able mann]2 next to ! l[] or ,roman portion ( ! city walls x is ! mo/ anci5t build+ 9 ,leon4 ,! body ( ,san ,isidoro 0 br\ght hi!r 9 ! reign ( ,f]d9& ,i4 :o obta9$ x f ! ,emir ( ,seville1 & ! pres5t *ur* 0 erect$ to receive x4 ,?is 0 9 #ajfc1 ! orig9al conv5t be+ a hundr$ ye>s old]4 ,san ,isidoro 0 decl>$ by ! ,c\ncil ( ,tol$o to be ! ,egregi\s ,doctor ( ,spa91 & 9 8 capacity ( titul> sa9t f\ght ) cross & sword at ! battle ( ,baeza aga9/ ! ,moors4 ,! *ur* is ,romanesque & d>k ) a l(ty cl]e/ory b no tri=ium4 ,! ,high ,alt> %>es ) t at ,lugo 9 ,galicia ! privilege ( hav+ ! ho/ always manife/ado4 ,illu/ration3 ,,leon4 ,,san ,,m>cos ,9 ! ,panteon1 a small l[ *apel at ! we/ end1 lie buri$ ! ,k+s & ,que5s & o!r royalties ( ,leon4 ,! columns are v massive ) heavy capitals2 ! ceil+ is adorn$ ) e>ly frescoes :i* happily escap$ ! depr$ations ( ! ,fr5*1 !y are crude1 b ! col\r adds to ! impressiv5ess ( ?is gloomy abode ( ! ,dead4 ,repres5t+ sc5es f ! ,lives ( our ,"l & ,8 ,apo/les1 ) signs ( ! ,zodiac & mon?s ( ! ye>1 !y date f #aahj4 ,! :ole conv5t is replete ) mural pa9t+s1 & be=e ,s\lt sack$ x conta9$ _m extremely int]e/+ & r>e missals ( ! sev5? & eigh? c5turies4 ,unique is ano!r conv5t1 t ( ,san ,m>cos1 :i* /&s on ! riv] bank outside ! city on ! road to ,a/orga4 ,f\nd$ z a *apel 9 #aafh = ! knights ( ,santiago1 x 0 rebuilt 9 #aead-di by ,juan de ,badajos1 & is c]ta9ly 8 ma/]piece4 ,x w\ld be difficult to f9d a faade ( great] beauty ?an ?is m>vel ( plat]esque "w4 ,! rem>kable p9k & gold5 col\r ( ! /one1 int5sifi$ aga9/ ! backgr\nd ( a deep blue sky1 ! delicacy ( ! c>v+ 9 :i* angels & *]ubs1 griffons & mon/]s int]m+le ) floral wrea?s & bran*es ( fruit 9 ord]ly confusion1 ! elegant pill>s & pila/]s1 all s truly ,spani% "u ! blaz+ sun1 fasc9at$ me imm5sely z "t aft] "t ,i return$ to wond] & admire4 ,"h aga9 ,i c\ld conjure up ! pa/1 ! romance ( ,spa9's greate/ ,ord]2 well h\s$ 7 ^? knights ( old 9 _! glori\s ,hospice1 & n[--! riv] /ill runs "u ! walls ( :at aft]w>ds became a conv5t1 its banks are l9$ ) tall popl>s1 f> away rise ! m\nta9s ( ! nor? 9 rugg$ outl9e j z !y did ( yore--& ,san ,m>cos8 ,alas6 half is a museum & ! re/ a b>rack4 ,a =lorn air p]vades ! place1 ! old g>d5 wants t5d+1 & despite ! life ( ! milit>y1 ,i c\ld n help sigh+ once aga91 z ,i h s (t5 sigh$ 9 ,spa9--,h[ are ! mighty fall56 ,,ovi$o ,ovi$o1 seldom visit$ by ! =eign]1 lies well situat$ on ris+ gr\nd 9 a f9e op5 valley4 ,gr& m\nta9s surr\nd & hem x 9 on ! ea/1 s\? & we/1 to ! nor? ! c\ntry undulates until x rea*es ! ,biscay coa/ tw5ty odd miles away4 ,^! natural b>ri]s ga!r ! cl\ds & ! climate is humid2 on an av]age !re are b sixty cl\dless days 9 ! ye>4 ,:ile ,i 0 9 ,ovi$o x ra9$ almo/ incessantly1 & ! clang ( ! wood5 %oon kept ! /reets lively ) a clatt]+ click-clack4 ,all ! poor] classes we> sabots 9 wet wea!r1 sabots t are pegg$ on ! soles1 difficult to walk 91 b kept well out ( ! mud & puddles by ^! pegs4 ,?is p>ticul> make is common to ,a/urias1 j z ! ord9>y ,fr5* %ape is to ,galicia4 ,ovi$o is "o ( ,spa9's univ]sity cities1 & ,i happ5$ to /rike ! week :5 ! fe/ivities 9 celebration ( its t]c5t5>y 7 9 progress4 ,wet wea!r & p\r+ ra9 nev] damp ! ard\r ( ! ,spani>d dur+ a fie/a1 & despite ! ra91 p[d] 0 kept dry someh[ or o!r1 & en?usiasm v5t$ itself regul>ly up to elev5 o'clock e night by t]rific explosions4 ,functions ( "s sort seem$ to be go+ on all day long4 ,societies f ! c\ntry p>ad$ ! /reets1 l$ by music1 9 mo/ cases bagpipes & a drum1 & ,ovi$o 0 evid5tly do+ itself pr\d4 ,i happ5$ on a c]emony 9 ! ,ca!dral "o morn+4 ,! bi%op 0 prea*+ to an imm5se cr[d :5 ,i ent]$4 ,seat$ 9 ! nave 7 ! ,pr(essors ( ! ,univ]sity1 ,doctors ( ,law & ,m$ic9e1 ! ,milit>y ,gov]nor & 8 ,/aff1 ! ,alcalde & ,t[n ,c\ncillors1 besides repres5tatives f ! univ]sities ( e ,european c\ntry1 except1 /rangely en\gh1 ,g]many1 & "o f ,h>v>d1 ! fir/ to att5d a function ( ?is sort s9ce ! w>4 ,x 0 a really wond]ful sight1 = ! ,ca!dral is n m>r$ by a coro 9 ! nave4 ,! hues ( ! _m-col\r$ robes1 f can>y yell[ & sc>let to c]ulean blue & black1 ! va/ ?rong lit]ally fill+ e available bit ( space1 ev5 on to ! pulpit /eps1 gave me a subject = my bru%1 & ,i surreptiti\sly made a ha/y sket*1 to be f9i%$ aft]w>ds 9 my room4 ,illu/ration3 ,,ovi$o4 ,,9 ,,! ,,ca!dral ,! ,ca!dral 0 f\nd$ by ,fruela 9 #gha1 & enl>g$ 9 #hjb by ,alfonso ! ,*a/e1 :o made ,ovi$o ! capital ( ,a/urias1 & ) 8 ,c\rt resid$ "h4 ,he creat$ ! ,see 9 #haj4 ,! pres5t edifice 0 begun by ,bi%op ,guti]rez ( ,tol$o 9 #achh1 & ! t[] add$ by ,c>d9al ,m5doza 9 #aebh4 ,h$g$ 91 al?\gh front+ on to a little plaza1 ! gr& we/ faade ) its beautiful por* c h>dly be said to be visible4 ,?is l(ty portico ( ri*ly ornam5t$ ,go?ic1 "u ! %elt] ( :i* ! gossips p>ade to & fro1 leads into ! ,ca!dral & /&s ?ru/ out & betwe5 ! two t[]s4 ,only "o ( ^! t[]s is complet$1 & x is surm\nt$ by a good op5-"w spire ! top ( :i* rises two hundr$ & sev5ty feet f ! gr\nd4 ,i w&]$ ab\t hopelessly try+ to ga9 "s idea ( ! ext]ior ( ! ,ca!dral & f\nd t x 0 only by walk+ outside ! city t any?+ at all c be se5 ( x1 & !n ! t[]s & ro( ( ! nave1 ) ! fly+ buttresses atta*$1 7 ! only features t came into view4 ,! entrance by ! s\? door leads ?r\gh a d>k passage1 9 :i* _m votive (f]+s hang ov] a t9y %r9e :]e burnt a little flick]+ lamp2 go+ 9 ,i f\nd myself at ! spot f :i* ,i _h made my sket* ! previ\s day4 ,:at a relief x 0 to f9d no coro block+ up ! nave6 ,! eye c\ld w&] ov] ! :ole ( ?is l(ty int]ior--c\ld foll[ ! beautiful op5 "w ( ! tri=ium & re/ on ! /a9$ glass ( ! cl]e/ory w9d[s4 ,! aisles are v %ad[y1 all ! light be+ conc5trat$ 9 ! nave & ! cross+1 & ! vision1 ) a great s5se ( good effect1 is l$ up to ! :ite tab]nacle on ! ,high ,alt> & ! imm5se retablo beyond4 ,a little !atrical if y l1 b x is bus9ess1 & ! ,*ur* und]/&s ?is s well4 ,among ! *apels1 good1 bad & indiff]5t1 is "o conta9+ a gorge\s silv]-gilt %r9e :]e9 re/s ! body ( ,santa ,eulalia1 ,ovi$o's patroness4 ,9 ano!r1 tuck$ away beh9d ! nor? transept1 ! ,capilla del ,rey ,ca/o1 lies buri$ ,alfonso ! ,*a/e :o did s mu* = ! city4 ,six ni*es 9 ! walls conta9 /one c(f9s1 :i* are suppos$ to hold ! rema9s ( ,fruela ,i41 ,urraca1 wife ( ,ramiro ,i41 ,alfonso el ,catlico1 ,ramiro1 & ,ordoo ,i4 ,! bodies ( ^! royalties at "o "t lay "h1 & a mod]n inscription on a mural tablet relates h[ !y 7 remov$1 b n h[ _! tombs 7 de/roy$4 ,_m o!r k+s & pr9ces we are told by ?is tablet also lie "h1 & z !re are b half a doz5 c(f9s _! bones mu/ be bi5 mlange4 ,!re are ! usual ov]done *irrigu]esque alt>s :i* d _! be/ to m> ?is impos+ *ur*1 ?\gh ,i am glad to say !y h>dly succe$4 ,f !m1 h[ev]1 x 0 a relief to be tak5 by a v intellig5t v]g] up ! w9d+ /airs :i* l$ to ! ,cm>a ,santa4 ,?is is by f> ! mo/ int]e/+ portion ( ! ,ca!dral4 ,built by ,alfonso 9 #hjb to hold ! sacr$ relics br\ght hi!r f ,tol$o at ! "t ( ! ,moori% invasion1 x /&s above a vault$ basem5t2 ! reason = ?is arrangem5t evid5tly be+ ! damp climate1 & ! wi% to keep s holy a *>ge free f moi/ure4 ,! *apel is divid$ into two p>ts4 ,! inn]1 ( v small dim5sions1 has a l[ b>rel vault+ borne by ar*es ) primitive twelf?-c5tury figures4 ,! sanctum sanctorum is slightly rais$1 & f ?is inmo/ ,holy ( ,holies ! relics are %[n to ! dev\t :o kneel 9 front ( a l[ rail+ e day at #h4cj ,a4,m4 & #c4cj ,p4,m4 ,! c$> wood arca 9 :i* !y are kept is ( ,byzant9e workman%ip4 ,! relics include "s ( ,m>y ,magdal5e's hair1 & crumbs left ov] f ! fe$+ ( ! five ?\s&4 ,! out] *amb] ( ! *apel has a f9ely-gro9$ ro(1 atta*$ to ! columns support+ :i* are /atues ( ! twelve apo/les4 ,! ri*ly-tesselat$ pavem5t resembles ! ,norman-,byzant9e "w ( ,sicily1 & 0 n uncommon 9 ,spa9 prior to ! ?irte5? c5tury4 ,a bell t[]1 9 :i* at "o "t hung ,wamba1 ! great bell ( ! *ur* ca/ 9 #abai1 /&s p>tly on ! ro( & at ! s\?-ea/ corn] ( ! ,cm>a ,santa4 ,x 0 erect$ by ,alfonso ,,vi41 & to judge by its pres5t /ate w n long survive1 mo/ decid$ly ,wamba c\ld n sw+ !re n[4 ,! ,ca!dral possesses ?ree rem>kable crosses1 ,la ,cruz de los ,angeles1 ,maltese 9 %ape1 is /udd$ ) uncut gems4 ,x dates f #hjh1 & l ! cross at ,santiago is #abjj ye>s old4 ,la ,cruz de la ,victoria1 ! cross ( ,pelayo1 is encas$ 9 beautiful filigree "w1 & is ! id5tical "o borne al(t be=e ,pelayo at 8 glori\s victory ov] ! ,moor at ! ,cave ( ,covadonga4 ,! ?ird is a crucifix on an ivory dipty*1 absolutely id5tical ) ! ,cri/o de las ,batallas ( ! ,cid at ,salamanca4 ,_m o!r relics ( great ar*ological int]e/ belong to ! ,ca!dral1 & make x well wor? ! j\rney to see4 ,?is j\rney f ,leon is long & try+1 b ! l9e1 :i* climbs to an altitude ( #daaj feet1 is "o ( ! f9e/ pieces ( eng9e]+ skill 9 ,spa94 ,illu/ration3 ,,ovi$o4 ,,! ,,cloi/]s ,! d>k entry ( ! s\? door leads n only into ! ,ca!dral & up to ! ,cm>a ,santa1 b also ?r\gh a side door op5s on to ! f\rte5?-c5tury cloi/]s4 ,!y are well kept & ! little g>d5 c\rt a p>adise 9 comp>ison ) "s ( ^? ,i "k4 ,! capitals ( ! columns are well c>v$ ) prophets & sa9ts "u canopies1 angels & angels' heads1 grotesques & good floral cutt+2 :ile into ! walls b5ea? !m & r\nd ! arcades are let _m tombs & grave/ones br\ght "h f diff]5t ru9$ or desecrat$ *ur*es4 ,i w5t (f "o morn+ to see ! e>lie/ ,*ri/ian *ur* 9 ! c\ntry4 ,brav+ ! ra9 ,i tramp$ ?r\gh mud ankle-deep = an h\r up ! hill slopes we/w>d4 ,x 0 a case ( two /eps =w>d & "o back1 b ! _s ( ! t\ri/ 0 on me4 ,i c\ld n leave ,ovi$o & ackn[l$ge ,i _h n be5 to ,n>anco4 ,i 0 desp]ate & ,i got !re4 ,:at a *>m+ out-(-!-way spot x is6 ,hidd5 beh9d a grove ( anci5t *e/nut trees1 "u ! br[ ( ! m\nta91 /&s ,santa ,m>ia4 ,a triple ar*$ por* at ! top ( a doz5 /eps gives entrance on ! nor? side to ?is m9ute & primitive place ( wor%ip4 ,i ent]$ & f\nd myself 9 a b>rel-vault$ p>allelogram1 ) a curi\s arcade runn+ r\nd ! walls4 ,! we/ end is rais$ ?ree /eps above ! nave1 f :i* x is cut (f by ?ree ar*es t5 feet high at ! c5tre4 ,! ea/ end also has ?is feature1 b ! floor is level ) ! nave4 ,all ! columns 9 ! *ur* are ( twi/$ cable design ) %ield capitals conta9+ figures 9 l[ relief4 ,! arcades1 :i* are wall$ up1 h dep5d+ f ! pla9 gro9+ b&s slabs ( cut /one ) plaques bel[1 some?+ l a ribbon & m$al 9 ! way !y hang4 ,! int]ior is b ?irty-five feet 9 l5g? & fifte5 feet across4 ,b5ea? ! *ur* is a semicircul> /one crypt1 simil> to t b5ea? ! ,cm>a ,santa2 x is ent]$ f ! cottage 9 :i* at "o "t liv$ ! (ficiat+ prie/4 ,! c>etak] inhabits ?is cottage1 :i* is built on to ! *ur*1 & ,i _h come at h] d9n] h\r4 ,alas6 %e c\ld n leave me 9 peace1 & ,i mu/ own to a defeat4 ,i 0 practically driv5 away1 = ! meal 0 spoil+ & requir$ h] undivid$ att5tion1 b ,i _h se5 ,santa ,m>ia de ,n>anco2 ,i _h grasp$ h[ 9 ! e>ly days1 :5 ! ,infidel 0 ov]runn+ ! l&1 ?is little build+ on ! lone hillside 0 a c5tre ( ! ,fai?1 & h[ f ! surr\nd+ m\nta9 fa/nesses wor%ipp]s _h ga!r$ "h & gone away /r5g!n$ by pray]1 & h[ f ?is little se$ ( ! ,*ur* s[n on ! =e/-clad hill ,spa9's might9ess _h gr[n4 ,,valladolid ,= ne>ly "o hundr$ & fifty ye>s1 f ! reign ( ,juan ,,ii41 #aded1 to ,philip ,,ii41 #aeih1 ,valladolid 0 a royal city & ! capital ( ,ca/ile4 ,x lies on ! pla9 ?r\gh :i* ! riv] ,pisu]ga me&]s1 j t\*+ ! outskirts ( ! city on ! we/]n side4 ,9 ! ,moori% days ,valladolid 0 kn[n z ,belad al ,wali1 ,! ,t[n ( ! ,gov]nor1 & fl\ri%$ z a great agricultural c5tre4 ,x is /ill ! focus ( ! corn trade ( ,old ,ca/ile4 ,x 0 "h t ,pr9ce ,f]d9&1 despite attempts on ! "p ( 8 fa!r ,juan ,,ii4 to fru/rate x1 0 introduc$ to ,isabella ! reign+ ,que5 ( ,ca/ile & ,leon4 ,_m suitors _h propos$ !mselves & paid _! addresses to ?is p>agon among wom51 b possess+ a w ( h] own %e made h] *oice & select$ ! ,pr9ce :om %e m>ri$ on ,octob] #ai1 #adfi4 ,valladolid suff]$ m sev]ely at ! h&s ( ! ,fr5* ?an any o!r city ( ,spa94 ,!y demoli%$ mo/ ( ! good h\ses & despoil$ ! *ur*es2 among ^? t are left1 h[ev]1 ,i f\nd pl5ty to int]e/ me & to make a /ay1 aft] ,i _h discov]$ !m1 well wor? ! :ile4 ,i made a sket* ( ,santa ,m>ia la ,antigua1 :i* is ! mo/ int]e/+ edifice 9 ! place4 ,! f9e ,romanesque t[] is surm\nt$ by a til$ /eeple :i* recalls ,lomb>dy1 & al?\gh _m additions h be5 made to ! orig9al fabric ! :ole build+ piles up v well1 ! e>ly ,go?ic ea/ end be+ p>ticul>ly beautiful4 ,?is *ur* dates f ! twelf? c5tury1 b ! great] "p ( x is pure ,go?ic4 ,! ro( is ri*ly gro9$2 !re are ?ree p>allel apses1 & ! coro is at ! we/ end--an always welcome place to f9d x4 ,! retablo by ,juan de ,juni1 ^: "w is scatt]$ ?r\gh\t ! *ur*es ( ,valladolid1 is f9e ?\gh ov]-elaborate4 ,ano!r good *ur* is ,san ,pablo1 p>tly rebuilt by ! great ,c>d9al ,torquemada1 ^: "n w = ev] be associat$ ) ! t]rors ( ! ,inquisition4 ,i f\nd ano!r subject = my bru% 9 its v intricate late ,go?ic we/ faade4 ,! upp] "p ( ?is conta9s ! arms ( ! ,ca?olic ,k+s1 bel[ :i* on ei!r side are ^? ( ! ,duque de ,l]ma4 ,! ni*es are luckily all fill$ ) _! orig9al figures1 & ! wond]ful trac]y ( ! r\nd w9d[ is also 9 good pres]vation4 ,! grey f9ials are wea!r-worn & contra/ well ) ! ri* yell[ & p9k ( ! re/ ( ! front1 a faade :i* is absolutely cramm$ ) intricate design4 ,two hide\s t[]s ( lat] date & ( ! same /one z t ) :i* ! ,ca!dral is built1 flank ?is & detract un=tunately f "o ( ! be/ examples ( late ,go?ic "w 9 ! c\ntry4 ,illu/ration3 ,,valladolid4 ,,santa ,,m>ia ,,la ,,antigua ,h>d by1 up ! /reet pictur$ 9 my sket*1 /&s ! ,colegiata de ,san ,gregorio1 ) an equally f9e faade1 ?\gh be+ an e>li] ,go?ic x is m sev]e 9 type4 ,! doorway ( ?is is surm\nt$ by a g5ealogical tree & ! arms ( ,f]d9& & ,isabella4 ,"s ( ! figures ( r\gh hairy m5 ) cudgels are v primitive4 ,san ,gregorio 0 a f\ndation ( ,c>d9al ,xim5es1 x is n[ us$ z municipal (fices4 ,pass+ ?r\gh ! doorway ,i ent]$ a beautiful little c\rt1 r d>k1 b ) suffici5t light to enable me to appreciate ! good artesonade ceil+ ( its cloi/]s4 ,! second c\rt is a blaze ( light4 ,spiral flut$ columns =m ! cloi/]1 ! ceil+ ( :i* is pick$ out 9 a c]ulean blue & :ite2 !y support a rec5tly re/or$ gall]y1 a mixture ( ,moori%1 ,romanesque & plat]esque "w1 into :i* ! %eaves & yoke ( ! ,ca?olic ,k+s is introduc$ z at ,granada & ,santiago1 mak+ a v effective :ole4 ,a f9e old /one /airway leads f ?is c\rt up to :at 9 ! old collegiate days 0 a libr>y4 ,( ! ,ca!dral ,i fe> ,i c write b little4 ,x is a huge gloomy edifice )\t a s+le r$eem+ feature1 & ( all ^? ,i saw ! mo/ incomplete & disappo9t+4 ,! ext]ior nor? & s\? walls are /ill unf9i%$1 ! /one "w is n ev5 fac$6 ,! ea/ are built ( brick1 & ! we/ faade1 alt]$ by ,*irrigu]a himself f ! orig9al plan ( ,h]r>a1 is extremely bald & ugly4 ,?is enorm\s build+ is f\r hundr$ feet 9 l5g? & ov] two hundr$ wide1 yet ^! proportions give x no gr&eur4 ,! int]ior is absolutely devoid ( ornam5t1 & if x 7 n = ! sill]ia 9 ! coro1 :i* 7 orig9ally int5d$ = ,san ,pablo & are good1 !re w\ld be no?+ to w>rant a visit to ?is cold & depress+ *ur*4 ,by ! way1 ! sacri/y conta9s a silv] cu/odia 9 ! %ape ( an op5 temple1 a good example ( ! "w ( ,juan de ,arfe4 ,!re is a ?ird-rate ,fr5* air ab\t ,valladolid1 at lea/ s x /ruck me1 & x 0 only aft] a visit to ! old ,colegio de ,santa ,cruz1 :]e9 is ! museum1 t my fir/ disappo9tm5t wore (f & ,i felt t ,i 0 /ill 9 ,spa94 ,illu/ration3 ,,valladolid4 ,,san ,,pablo ,! cont5ts ( ! museum are mo/ly objects :i* ! ,fr5* plund]$ f ! *ur*es & mona/]ies ( ,ca/ile1 & 7 recov]$ aft] _! disa/r\s defeat at ,vitoria4 ,! /yles ( ,b]ruguete1 ,h]n&ez & ,juan de ,juni c be exam9$ "h at leisure4 ,"s ( ! life-size c>v$ wood5 figures ( ! la/ nam$1 =m]ly us$ on ! processional c>s :i* p>ade ! /reets at c]ta9 fe/ivals1 are rem>kable m f ! extravagant attitudes ( ! figures ?an f _! arti/ic m]it4 ,! cu/odian :o accompani$ me 0 a pleasant fell[1 & ev9c$ surprise t a p9tor c\ld n see ! beauties he po9t$ out4 ,i fe> he ?\ght little ( my arti/ic discrim9ation2 especially :5 9 ! ,sala de ,juntas he invit$ me to asc5d a pulpit ov] :i* hung a l>ge crucifix1 & ) f]v\r solicit$ my admiration ( ! face ( ,*ri/1 on :i* 0 a mo/ agonis$ look1 *eap & q accord+ to academic rules4 ,no1 no1 x is bad4 ,b1 seor1 ,he suff]s4 ,i c\ld n make him und]/& t acute suff]+ ne$ n be s pa9fully app>5t4 ,9 ?is ,sala are plac$ ! :ole ( ! sill]ia de coro f ! *ur* ( ,san ,b5ito4 ,arrang$ on ei!r side ( ! room !y give x a sup]b effect4 ,at ! f> end are ! r$ velvet-cov]$ *airs ( ,spani% ,*ipp5dale us$ by ! ,c\ncil ( ! ,academy ( ,arts at _! meet+s4 ,beyond !m1 on a rais$ plat=m1 are ! two bronze-gilt kneel+ figures ( ! ,duke & ,du*ess de ,l]ma4 ,a few pictures hang on ! walls & o!r treasures & relics help to make ?is f9e ,sala an ideal c\ncil *amb] = ! academicians4 ,( ! hundr$s ( c>v$ figures 9 o!r rooms ^? by ,b]ruguete1 v ,greek 9 type1 flat br[ & /raight nose1 are arti/ically by f> ! be/1 ?\gh ! ,dea? ( our ,"l1 a life-size composition by ,h]n&ez1 foll[s n f> beh9d4 ,j z ,madrid conta9s ! f9e/ arm\ry 9 ! _w1 ,i d\bt if any o!r museum c compete ) ,valladolid's = figures & compositions ( c>v$ wood4 ,! ,univ]sity holds at pres5t a high rank1 mo/ ( its pr(essors be+ progressive4 ,! build+ itself is a *irrigu]esque conc]n ( ! sev5te5? c5tury ) a v extravagant faade4 ,x possesses a good libr>y :i* is get-at-able1 & n l o!rs belong+ to ! *ur* :i* are v difficult ( access4 propos ( ?is "o ( ! pr(essors "h told me ! foll[+ h>dly cr$ible exp]i5ce ( a fri5d ( 81 :om ,i w call ,a4 ,!re is a movem5t at pres5t 9 ,spa9 to catalogue "s at lea/ ( ! _m ?\s&s ( priceless hi/orical ,arabic docum5ts & ,,mss4 :i*1 hidd5 away 9 ,ca!dral & o!r libr>ies1 w\ld ?r[ invaluable light on ! hi/ory ( e>ly times if !y c\ld be exam9$4 ,a4 is engag$ 9 try+ to compile ?is catalogue1 &1 he>+ t 9 a c]ta9 ,ca!dral city--n ,valladolid--! ,ca!dral libr>y conta9$ "s treasures ( ,arabic lore1 procur$ an introduction to ! bi%op1 & reque/$ p]mission to se>* ! ar*ives ( ! diocese4 ,expla9+ t he 0 unable to help 9 ! matt]1 ! bi%op s5t ,a4 to ! *apt] au?orities4 ,! basis ( _! refusal 0 t any ,,ms4 if tak5 d[n f its %elf might be injur$1 & if once tak5 d[n might n be replac$ 9 ! same position6 ,yes1 !y c]ta9ly possess$ _m suppos$ ,arabic docum5ts1 b z none _h be5 di/urb$ 9 liv+ memory1 :y take ! tr\ble to make a catalogue8 ,surely ?is w\ld be sup]flu\s1 ! books 7 !re no d\bt1 ,a4 c\ld see !m 9 _! %elves1 ! libr>ian w\ld be happy to %[ !m1 b no1 !y c\ld n be tak5 d[n4 ,9 ! libr>y ( ! ,escorial ! books are all plac$ ) _! titles aga9/ ! wall & _! edges turn$ t[>ds ! spectator1 s t no vulg> t\* c\ld defame !m by read+4 ,small wond] t ! ,progressi/s ( ,spa9 %rug _! %\ld]s sometimes at ! _m petty ob/acles enc\nt]$ 9 _! attempts to bett] _! c\ntry1 & reg>d x z an almo/ hopeless task4 ,two =eign colleges are situat$ 9 ,valladolid1 ! ,scot* & ! ,engli%4 ,! fir/ nam$ 0 f\nd$ by ,colonel ,semple 9 ,madrid & remov$ hi!r 9 #agga1 ! second by ,sir ,francis ,englefield1 :o came to ,spa9 aft] ! execution ( ,m>y ,que5 ( ,scots4 ,!y are bo? sem9>ies = ! education ( "y prie/s & ) ! ,iri% ,college 9 ,salamanca complete ! trio4 ,! focus ( ! city's life is 9 ! ,plaza ,mayor1 a f9e squ>e :]e ! fir/ auto da f1 :i* ,philip ,,ii4 & 8 c\rt witness$1 took place 9 ,octob] #aeei4 ,x 0 "h also t ,alv>o de ,luna 0 execut$1 aft] fai?fully s]v+ 8 ,k+1 ,juan ,,ii41 = ?irty ye>s4 ,spa9 !reby lo/ ! /rong w & ! arm :i* en=c$ x1 & :i* out ( *aos _h br\ght ! c\ntry into a semblance ( ord] by quell+ ! turbul5t nobles4 ,su* has be5 9 ! pa/ ! fickl5ess ( ,spa9's rul]s t n "o ( ! great m5 :o h s]v$ _! c\ntry1 ) p]haps ! exception ( ,g5]al ,prim1 & he di$ a disappo9t$ man1 has ev] end$ 8 life 9 peace & quiet4 ,!y h ne>ly all di$ at ! /ake1 on ! scaffold1 or be5 f\lly murd]$4 ,! mu* dilapidat$ h\se 9 a n>r[ /reet :]e ,columbus di$ is fa/ fall+ into ru91 b t 9 ! ,calle de ,ra/ro1 :]e ,c]vantes liv$ & wrote ! fir/ "p ( ,don ,quixote1 is 9 bett] condition4 ,,burgos ,unlike mo/ folk :o ent] ! c\ntry f ! nor?1 ,i left ,burgos = ! end ( my la/ visit to ,spa91 & f\nd x 9 a way n unlike ,cadiz1 ! fir/ place ,i arriv$ at4 ,!y are bo? clean cities--= ,spa92 ! /reets 9 bo? are n>r[1 & ! h\ses tall ) d\ble-glaz$ balconies4 ,!re is b little traffic 9 ei!r1 ! squ>es 9 bo? are num]\s1 b ! resemblance /ops at ?is4 ,! /reets ( ,burgos run ea/ & we/ 9 l9es m or less p>allel ) ! riv] ,arlanzn4 ,!y are draughty & cold4 ,! city /&s #bghe feet above sea level & ! w9ds sweep d[n f ! di/ant si]ra 9 bitt] bla/s4 ,! life ( ,burgos is em95tly ecclesia/ical ) a l>ge spr9kl+ ( ! milit>y elem5t1 = "h all ?ree bran*es ( ! s]vice are qu>t]$4 ,x is a quiet place & ,i work$ 9 peace unmole/$4 ,:at a pity ! build]s ( ! great ,ca!dral c\ld n f9d ano!r site :]eon to erect _! wond]ful *ur*4 ,h[ mu* bett] x w\ld h look$ if plac$ on ! flat gr\nd ne> ! riv] ?an on ! spot :]e a summ] palace ( ,gonzalez once /ood4 ,h[ev]1 "o _c move m\nta9s & ,i 0 p]=ce oblig$ to plant my easel on ! slope ( ! hill & pa9t ! /ock view f 9 front ( ! we/ faade4 ,9 #ajge ,alfonso ,,vi4 mov$ ! ,ar*iepiscopal ,see f ,oca to ,burgos & gave ! site ( ! royal palace = its erection4 ,! pres5t edifice 0 f\nd$ 9 #abba by ,f]d9& el ,santo on ! occasion ( 8 m>riage ) ,beatrice ( ,swabia1 :o 9 h] tra9 br\ght ! ,engli%man1 ,bi%op ,maurice4 ,employ+ a ,fr5* ar*itect1 ,maurice 0 m or less responsible = ! pres5t build+1 ?\gh ano!r =eign]1 ,john ( ,cologne1 add$ ! beautiful op5 "w spires ) _! p>apets to ! t[]s ( ! we/ end4 ,x is curi\s t ?is1 ! mo/ ri*ly ornate ,ca!dral 9 ! c\ntry1 %\ld be ! outcome ( patronage ( ! =eign]1 ?\gh at ! same "t x is ! mo/ ,spani% ( ! ?ree =eign ,ca!drals4 ,s ri* is ?is magnific5t ,*ur* 9 e /yle ( ar*itectural decoration t x w\ld take a lifetime to "k x ?or\ghly4 ,john ( ,cologne's beautiful spires are bett] ?an ^? at ,leon & ,ovi$o1 & rise ) ! t[]s t support !m to a height close on #cjj ft4 ,! gorge\s c5tral lant]n1 ) its twelve trac]i$ p9nacles1 ! grace ( ^? t surm\nt ! ,con/able's ,*apel1 ! _m1 _m o!rs t break ! skyl9e & adorn ?is glori\s fabric1 all g to make x a build+ t1 despite ! diff]5t /yles employ$1 w be a wond] & a joy z long z man's h&iwork la/s4 ,! l[] portion ( ! we/ front 0 r5ew$ 9 #agij4 ,! ,pu]ta ,pr9cipal 9 ! c5tre is flank$ by two small doors1 ) reliefs ( ! ,conception & ,cr[n+ ( ! ,virg91 :ile ! *ief door has f\r /atues ( ,f]d9& el ,santo1 ,alfonso ,,vi41 & ,bi%ops ,oca & ,maurice4 ,l>ge ,go?ic w9d[s occupy ! ?ird /age ( ! front1 _! bases be+ fill$ ) /atues4 ,! c5tral /age1 :i* has a s+le ar*1 conta9s a spl5did rose w9d[4 ,! upp] portion ( ! two t[]s is occupi$ by v beautiful p]=at$ d\ble w9d[s 9 :i* cro*et decoration is pr(usely us$4 ,x is altoge!r a wond]ful faade :i* ,i greatly wi%$ c\ld be se5 f ! level4 ,! *ief entrance on ! nor? is clos$4 ,x is on ! /reet1 & ?r\gh x ! desc5t into ! nor? transept is by ! well-kn[n ,escalada ,dorada4 ,! e>ly ,go?ic portal--,pu]ta alta--is adorn$ by /atues & ) ! :ole ( ?is faade is "o ( ! e>lie/ portions ( ! ,ca!dral4 ,! door1 :i* on ?is side leads into ! ,ca!dral1 is ! ,pu]ta de la ,pellej]ia & op5s on to ! nor?-ea/ angle ( ! transept bel[ ! ,gold5 ,/aircase4 ,on ! s\? ! ,pu]ta del ,s>m5tal is approa*$ f ! /reet by ?ree ti]s ( /eps1 x is also "p ( ! orig9al ,go?ic & is decorat$ ) /atues & coats-(-arms4 ,above x rises a simil> faade to t ( ! nor? transept4 ,! arcad+ 9 bo? ^! faades is mo/ beautiful & f "s po9ts1 :]e ! ro(-l9e c be se5 cutt+ ! sky1 !y look l two t[]s surm\nt$ by an elegant balu/rade4 ,v probably ! pit* ( ! ro(s 0 int5d$ to be high]1 & ! build+ ( ! c5tral lant]n has int]f]$ ) ! orig9al design4 ,! nave ( pure e>ly ,go?ic is l(ty b sadly spoilt by ! height ( ! coro4 ,! aisles are l[1 b v beautiful4 ,! cimborio runs up 9 d\ble /ages ) w9d[s 9 ea* & balu/rades1 x is a p]fect maze ( intricate design & f9e c>v+4 ,! walls are cov]$ ) ! royal arms ( ,*>les ,v4 & ! ,city ( ,burgos2 !re are figures ( patri>*s & prophets /&+ 9 ! ni*es1 s]aphim & angels occupy ! recesses ( ! sp&rils1 & ! beautiful gro9+ ( ?is sup]b octagon is q unmat*$ any:]e 9 ,spa94 ,x all looks z if j f9i%$1 ! /one is :ite & 9 p]fect pres]vation4 ,h[ my neck us$ to a*e :5 look+ al(t1 unweav+ ! intricacies ( t spl5did int]ior6 ,to /r5g!n ! ,ca!dral & support ! weight ( ?is addition1 ! orig9al pi]s 7 alt]$ at ! cross+1 & ! huge cyl9drical columns1 :i* are ri*ly *as$ ) ,r5aissance decoration1 sub/itut$4 ,"o c h>dly say t ,juan de ,vallejo has spoilt ! *ur* by ?is octagon1 = 8 "w "h w\ld grace any build+1 b all ! same ,i ?9k ! ,go?ic ( ! int]ior has suff]$ by ! introduction ( 8 designs1 & ,i w\ld soon] h se5 ! cross+ 9 its orig9al /ate4 ,illu/ration3 ,,burgos4 ,,! ,,capilla ,,mayor ,! tri=ium is compos$ ( wide bays ) an unev5 numb] ( clos$ lights 9 ea*4 ,a s+le ar*1 ! m\ld+s ( :i* are surm\nt$ by c>v$ heads1 spans ea* gr\p4 ,! cl]e/ory conta9s a little mod]n glass1 mo/ ( ! old hav+ be5 de/roy$ by a p[d] explosion 9 ! =t on ! hill above4 ,9 ! coro ! sill]ia are exquisitely c>v$2 ! ma9 panels repres5t subjects f ! ,new ,te/am5t1 ! l[]1 :i* are divid$ by pila/]s ) arabesques1 repres5t sc5es ( m>tyrdom4 ,philip ,vig>ni1 :o 0 responsible = ?is f9e coro1 surpass$ himself 9 "s ( its decoration1 :i* adds "o m item to all t ought to be ?or\ghly /udi$ 9 ! great ,ca!dral4 ,on ! nor? side ( ! ,high ,alt>1 9 front or :i* hangs a magnific5t silv] lamp1 are ! tombs ( ?ree ( ! ,infantes ( ,ca/ile4 ,beh9d ?is1 ! trassagr>io is cov]$ ) well-execut$ reliefs 9 :ite /one1 "s ( ?is is v s(t & has crumbl$ away a good deal4 ,e morn+ a deposit ( du/ is swept up & x w soon be necess>y to ?or\ghly re/ore ^! f9e panels or ! designs w be lo/ = ev]4 ,!y repres5t ! ,agony 9 ! ,g>d51 our ,"l be>+ ! ,cross1 ! ,crucifixion1 ! ,desc5t1 ! ,resurrection & ! ,asc5sion4 ,! ?ree c5tre are by ,vig>ni1 & ! o!rs by ,alfonso de los ,rios4 ,ne>ly all ! *apels are replete ) int]e/1 be x ar*itecture1 tombs1 pictures or relics1 b ( !m all ! ,capilla del ,conde/able is ! gr&e/4 ,built 9 #adhg by ,john ( ,cologne = ! ,h]$it>y ,con/able ( ,ca/ile1 ,don ,p$ro ,f]n&ez de ,velasco1 x is ! private prop]ty ( ! ,duque de ,frias4 ,! reja1 ! ma/]piece ( ,cri/obal ,&9o1 be>s date ,,mdxxiii4 & is c]ta9ly ! f9e/ 9 ! ,ca!dral4 ,x is a wor?y entrance to ?is magnific5t octagon1 :i*1 view$ f outside1 rises deta*$ f ! ma9 build+ ) eight elaborate p9nacles po9t+ heav5w>ds4 ,! trac]y ( ! pi]c$ ceil+ ( ! ,lant]n ) its gild$ bosses1 vies 9 intricacy ) t ( ! ,ca!dral itself4 ,!re is a d\ble cl]e/ory ) sculptur$ knights at ! bases ( ! columns hold+ col\r$ metal bann]s4 ,! und]cutt+ ( ! m\ld+s 9 ! ar*es is v m>vell\s1 ! l[e/ c\rse is =m$ ( deta*$ figures hang+ d[nw>ds & f a little di/ance (f looks l a piece ( lacework4 ,9 front ( ! retablo & ,high ,alt> are ! sup]bly sculptur$ tombs ( ! ,con/able & 8 wife4 ,he is 9 full arm\r1 %e lies by 8 side on a ri*ly embroid]$ cu%ion ) h] little lap-dog ne/l+ com=tably 9 ! folds ( h] robe ne> h] feet4 ,! *apel teems ) int]e/2 ! weal? ( r$ m>ble f ! qu>ries ( ,atapu]ca & ! v effective *equ] arrangem5t ( black & :ite /eps lead+ to ! ,high ,alt> give x j ! note ( col\r its :it5ess o!rwise w\ld lack4 ,atta*$ to ! *apel is a small ve/ry ent]$ ?r\gh a dim9utive plat]esque doorway ( exquisite design4 ,among/ o!r priceless relics ! ve/ry conta9s a f9e gold *alice /udd$ ) preci\s /ones & a good ,madonna by ,lu9i4 ,ano!r f9e picture1 a ,virg9 & ,*ild by ,seba/ian del ,piombo1 hangs ov] ! alt> 9 ! ,capilla de ,la ,pres5tacion4 ,9 ! ,capilla del ,santissimo ,cri/o is a v anci5t crucifix ( life-siz$ proportions4 ,tradition & ! v]g]s say t x came f ! ,ea/ & 0 c>v$ by ,nicodemus4 ,! figure is flexible & v att5uat$1 x is cov]$ ) a buff-col\r$ lea!r to repres5t dri$ fle% & is v gruesome4 ,9 ,san ,juan de ,sahagun are six panels ( ! fifte5? c5tury2 good specim5s ( ! e>ly ,spani% s*ool1 !y repres5t ! ,nativity1 ,adoration & f\r sc5es f ! ,passion4 ,! great ,bi%op ,alfonso de ,c>tag5a lies int]r$ 9 ! ,capilla de ,san ,enrique1 & 8 tomb is rem>kably f9e4 ,o!rs 9 ?is *apel & 9 ! cloi/]s are cut 9 slate & h be5 work$ ) great clev]ness consid]+ ! way 9 :i* a bl[ spl9t]s ?is mat]ial s easily4 ,! ,*apel ( ,santa ,ana1 un=tunately re/or$ rec5tly1 belongs to ! ,duque de ,abrantes1 & conta9s ! be/ retablo 9 ! ,ca!dral4 ,on x are display$ incid5ts 9 ! ,life ( ,*ri/ :i* spr+ f & are enclos$ by ! bran*es ( a g5ealogical tree4 ,x is a qua9t idea v well c>ri$ out4 ,x is a difficult task to try & give an idea ( ! cont5ts & admirable /yle ( all ^! *apels 9 ! space ( a %ort *apt]1 suffice x to say t !y are1 "o & all1 wor?y p5dants to ! re/ ( ! great *ur*1 & exemplify 9 _! cont5ts ! glori\s age ( ! rul+ bi%ops & nobility ( ,old ,ca/ile4 ,9 ! s\? transept is a wond]ful l[ doorway 9 front ( :i* ,i _h (t5 /ood exam9+ ! well-c>v$ wood5 panels on ! doors !mselves4 ,x leads into ! cloi/]s1 b x 0 n until ,i _h become ?or\ghly acqua9t$ ) ! gr\ps repres5t+ ! ,entry into ,j]usalem & ! ,desc5t into ,hades :i* grace ?is portal1 t ,i pass$ ?r\gh4 ,! door dates f ! e>ly fifte5? c5tury & consid]+ ! _m ?\s&s ( times x has swung op5 & %ut is 9 mo/ excell5t pres]vation4 ,! cloi/]s are f\rte5?-c5tury "w & =m an upp] /orey to a basem5t cloi/] ( l[ ar*es surr\nd+ a c\rty>d :i* at ! "t ( my visit 0 und]go+ ext5sive repair4 ,9 ! c5tre is a huge cross2 ! flag/ones ( ! c\rt 7 all up1 & ! bones f _m di/urb$ graves 7 be+ ?r[n into a pit4 ,! beautiful cloi/]s prop] are fill$ ) mod]n opaque glass--,muy frio answ]$ ! v]g] to my "q1 ,por que8--& no d\bt x is 9 ! w9t] mon?s4 ,b ! *>m ab\t a cloi/] is ! vi/a ?r\gh ! ar*es2 ?is ,burgos has lo/ = ! sake ( ! well-be+ ( h] prie/s2 ! pity is t funds w\ld n all[ ( bett] glass :5 ! utilit>ian aspect dem&$ ! %utt+ out ( ! cold w9ds4 ,! sacri/y on ! ea/ side ( ! cloi/]s is a v beautiful e>ly fifte5?-c5tury room ) a f9e gro9$ ro(1 ! peculi>ity ( :i* is t x has no support+ columns4 ,! half-pi]s end 9 corbels ( hunt+ sc5es & ,i d>esay h (t5 recall$ to _m a prie/ days ( 8 e>ly boyhood4 ,! ,*apt] ,h\se1 ) an artesonade ceil+1 conta9s "s good pictures & is rea*$ ?r\gh ! ,capilla del ,corpus ,*ri/i4 ,high up on ! wall ( ?is *apel1 & fix$ to x ) iron clamps1 is ! ,c(re del ,cid1 a wood5 c(f] :i* ! ,campeador fill$ ) s&1 & tell+ ! ,jews x 0 full ( gold1 rais$ six hundr$ m>ks4 ,he r$eem$ ! pl$ge lat] on & paid up ! sum he _h borr[$4 ,! tomb ( ,enrique ,,iii4's head cook1 :o is ly+ 9 arm\r ) a sword1 occupies a space on ! floor4 ,he 0 n a bad-look+ man & ,i d>esay took 8 turn at ! enemy & us$ 8 sword :5 occasion (f]$4 ,/reet writes ( ^! cloi/]s--,i "k none m int]e/+ & m v>i$--b ,i left !m & ! _m f9e tombs & /atues !y conta9 wi%+ t prie/s 7 n mortal nor liable to *ills4 ,illu/ration3 ,,burgos4 ,,ar* ,,( ,,santa ,,m>ia ,! capital ( ,old ,ca/ile is a quiet little place & ,i felt ,i 0 9 a nor!rn clime f> away f ! *>m ( ,&alusia & ! s\?4 ,! "n ,burgos is ( ,ib]ian orig91 ,briga signify+ a =tifi$ hill4 ,f\nd$ z long ago z #hhd by ,diego de ,porcelos1 x 0 = _m g5]ations ! capital ( ,ca/ile4 ,at ! m>riage ( ,f]d9& ,i4 9 #ajfg ,ca/ile & ,leon became "o & t5 ye>s lat] ! seat ( ,gov]nm5t 0 remov$ by ,alfonso ,,vi4 to ,tol$o4 ,s]i\s tr\bles ensu$ betwe5 ! inhabitants ( ! two cities4 ,old ,ca/ile c\ld n brook ! int]f]5ce ( ! great ar*bi%ops ( ,new ,ca/ile & ! loss ( pre/ige atta*$ to royalty & its c\rt4 ,9 ,*>les ,v4's reign ,burgos jo9$ ! ,comunros1 ! oppon5ts ( c5tralis$ gov]nm5t1 b 0 wisely p>don$ ) o!r t[ns by ! ,k+1 :o held a c\rt 9 /ate = ?is purpose 9 ! ,plaza ,mayor at ,valladolid4 ,z a result ( ?is =giv5ess ! inhabitants erect$ ! f9e entrance gateway ( ,santa ,m>ia ( :i* ,i made a sket*4 ,s9ce t day1 except = ,well+ton's futile sieges1 ,burgos has slept ! sleep ( ! j & be+ an em95tly ecclesia/ical city w cont9ue 9 ?is happy /ate4 ,mu* ( int]e/ lies tuck$ away 9 ! n>r[ /reets4 ,!re is ! ,casa del ,cordon1 at "o "t ! palace ( ! ,velasco family1 & a royal resid5ce4 ,)9 its walls ! ,ca?olic ,k+s receiv$ ,columbus on 8 return f ! ,new ,_w1 & "h 0 sign$ ! incorporation ( ,nav>re ) ,ca/ile4 ,?is f9e example ( a t[n h\se is flank$ by two squ>e t[]s1 ) a rope f :i* x takes its "n c>v$ ov] ! portal4 ,! ,casa de ,mir&a1 ) a noble c\rty>d & well-proportion$ flut$ columns1 ne> :i* is ! ,casa de ,angulo a /rong =tress-l build+4 ,! faade ( ! old ,collegio de ,san ,nicolas is replete ) f9e workman%ip & ! *ur* ( ?is "n ) tombs4 ,! ri*ly-c>v$ /one retablo1 illu/rat+ ev5ts ( ! sa9t's life1 is also a "w ( real art4 ,"u ! wall ( ! cemet]y /ood ! h\se :]e9 ! ,cid 0 born1 & 9 ! ,ca/le on ! hill1 n[ a ru91 he 0 m>ri$4 ,! nuptials ( ,edw>d ,i4 ( ,engl& ) ,eleanor ( ,ca/ile 7 celebrat$ 9 ?is =tress1 :i* c also claim ! bir? ( ,p$ro ! ,cruel4 ,= a prov9cial t[n ,burgos possesses a mo/ int]e/+ museum4 ,among ! _m relics ,i saw 0 a bronze alt> font ) col\r$ enamels ( sa9ts & a ,moori% ivory casket1 bo? f ! mona/]y ( ,san ,dom+o de ,silos4 ,! f9e kneel+ figure 9 alaba/] ( ,juan de ,padilla1 :o lo/ 8 life at an e>ly age dur+ "o ( ! sieges ( ,granada1 is almo/ z beautiful z t ( ! ,infante ,alfonso 9 ! ,c>tuja4 ,roman & m$ival rema9s1 f\nd at diff]5t times & tak5 f dise/abli%$ conv5ts1 add$ to ! int]e/ ( a %ort visit4 ,!re is s mu* to see 9 ,burgos & its surr\nd+s1 & ! see+ ( x all is s pleasant1 s undi/urb$1 & s diff]5t to ! s\?1 :]e = ev] ,i 0 annoy$ by t\t+ loaf]s & irrepressible boys1 t :5 ,i left x 0 ) feel+s ( great regret4 ,illu/ration ,across ! riv]1 ab\t an h\r's walk "o morn+ br\ght me to ! ,conv5t ( ,las ,huelgas1 :i* is /ill inhabit$ by %y nuns4 ,f\nd$ 9 #aahg by ,alfonso ,,viii4 x has always loom$ l>ge 9 ! hi/ory ( ,ca/ile4 ,_m ( h] k+s h kept vigil be=e ! ,high ,alt>1 :5 receiv+ knigh?ood1 our own ,edw>d ,i4 among !m4 ,_m royal pairs h be5 w$d$ )9 ! *ur*1 & _m sleep _! long sleep )9 its quiet prec9cts4 ,! ,abbess 0 mitr$1 %e possess$ p[]s ( life & dea?1 %e rank$ z a ,pr9cess-palat9e next to ! ,que51 & %e 0 /yl$ ,por la gracia de ,dios4 ,h] nuns 71 & /ill are1 daught]s ( noble h\ses1 & "s ev5 ( royal bir?4 ,9 ! *apel ( ,santiago hangs a copy ( ! embroid]$ bann] captur$ at ! great fight ( ,las ,navas de ,tolosa1 a victory :i* crippl$ & drove out ! ,infidel f ! nor?4 ,! orig9al hangs 9 ! nun's *oir1 a fitt+ p5dant to ! spl5did tape/ries :i* cov] ! walls4 ,i 0 told ( o!r treasures invisible to ! eye ( man & once aga9 wi%$ ,i c\ld h *ang$ my sex = a %ort "t4 ,be+ m]e man1 ,i he>d ! gate %ut z ,i left ! conv5t ) a r cre/fall5 feel+1 s walk$ ano!r half-mile on to ! ,hospital del ,rey4 ,alfonso ,,viii4 built ?is ,hospice = pilgrims en r\te to ,santiago4 ,b little rema9s ( ! orig9al build+1 ?\gh ! ,r5aissance faade & ?irte5?-c5tury doorway1 ) curi\s figures ( ,adam & ,eve1 repaid me = my extra trudge & ,i return$ to my hotel ) ! imag9$ slight dissipat$ & my am\r propre re/or$4 ,my la/ pilgrimage 9 ,spa9 happ5$ "o cold aft]noon :5 ,i w5t out to ! ,c>tuja de ,miraflores4 ,! cl\ds hung l[ ov] ! hills & ! damp smell ( autumn 0 9 ! air4 ,! road ?i!r passes ?r\gh av5ues ( great popl>s4 ,! leaves _h begun to fall & x 0 wet "u foot4 ,a slight drizzle 0 imp]ceptibly saturat+ ev]y?+ & ,i ?\ght ! "t ( my dep>ture f sunny ,spa9 n ill-*os54 ,despite all ?is1 & ! depress+ day1 ,i c always recall ) pleasure ! road t my companion & ,i trav]s$ be=e we pass$ "u ! ar* t m>ks ! mona/ic b\nd>y4 ,begg>s acco/$ u at ! door ( ! mona/]y1 = once ,i gave !m alms & receiv$ a bless+4 ,we pass$ 91 & f\nd ourselves 9 a pretty little c\rty>d fill$ ) dahlias & o!r autumnal fl[]s4 ,! bright col\rs *e]$ u a bit1 ! *ur* lay on our left1 we ent]$ x "u a ,go?ic ar*4 ,a monk 9 ! /alls 0 at pray]1 he also kept an obs]vant eye on ! two visitors4 ,our foot/eps seem$ to s\nd int5sely l\d on ! /one pavem5t1 & we spoke 9 v l[ :isp]s4 ,! cold :ite-wa%$ walls & ?is solit>y figure dron+ out 8 pray]s 7 depress+4 ,we furtively admir$ ! f9ely-c>v$ /alls1 ! gr& retablo ov] ! ,high ,alt> ) its t]ribly life-l crucifix1 all ! "t ) a feel+ on my "p ( t vigilant eye bor+ a hole 9 my back l a gimlet4 ,we next exam9$ ! alaba/] tomb ! ma/]piece ( ,gil de ,siloe1 execut$ to ! ord] ( ,isabella ! ,ca?olic1 :i* /&s 9 front ( ! alt>4 ,juan ,,ii4 & 8 wife ,isabella ( ,portugal lie side by side clo!d 9 _! robes ( /ate4 ,at 8 feet are two ,lions1 at h]s a ,lion & a ,dog4 ,i =got ! solit>y monk & ! gimlet /opp$ its "w z ,i became lo/ 9 admiration :ile foll[+ ! intricacies ( ,gil de ,siloe's greate/ production4 ,at ! eight corn]s ( ?is magnific5t tomb1 mo/ und\bt$ly ! f9e/ ,i h ev] se51 & by "s consid]$ unsurpass$ 9 ,europe1 sixte5 lions support ! royal arms1 above !m along ! cornice beautiful little /atuettes /& "u canopies :i* are a m>vel ( delicate trac]y4 ,! embroid]y on ! robes ( ! royal pair is exquisite & ! imitation ( ! lace "w unsurpass$4 ,= a long "t we /ood discuss+ & admir+ ! m>vell\s clev]ness ( ! design] ( a monum5t :i* is wor?y ( ! great & pi\s woman :o erect$ x to ! memory ( h] p>5ts4 ,h>d by 9 ! we/ wall ( ! *ur* is ! tomb ( ! ,infante ,alfonso1 ^: dea? at ! e>ly age ( sixte5 left ! accession vacant = ,isabella & s *ang$ ! hi/ory ( ,ca/ile4 ,x is likewise a wond]ful piece ( "w by ! same skilful h&4 ,! "y ,pr9ce kneels alone 9 an attitude ( pray] :i* ga9s dignity f ! half-%ad[ ?r[n by ! recess 9 :i* ! monum5t is plac$4 ,! ar* above is decorat$ ) a tw9+ v9e1 :ile m5-at-arms support ! tomb4 ,we turn$ f ! contemplation ( ^! two memorials & ! monotone ( ! old monk's pray] fill$ ! *ur*4 ,i ?9k we bo? %>$ a feel+ ( relief :5 we f\nd ourselves once m outside "u ! grey sky1 ?\gh ,i %all ev] rememb] ! impression ( t aisleless *ur* ) its magnific5t tombs1 t :ite rob$ monk ) 8 dron+ voice1 ! *ill ( ! autumn air & ^? long l9es ( /ately popl>s "u :i* ,i pass$ 9 my la/ pilgrimage 9 ,spa94 ,,index ,abd]rhaman1 mosque (1 #hj ,adrian ,,iv41 ,pope1 #ha ,albornoz1 ,c>d9al1 tomb (1 #aaa ,alfonso ,,vi41 #bcd1 #bce ,alfonso ,,viii41 #bde ,alfonso de ,c>tag5a1 ,bi%op1 #bdj ,alfonso el ,catolico1 #aig2 c(f9 (1 #bbj ,alfonso ! ,*a/e1 #bah1 #bbj ,alfonso ! ,le>n$1 s>cophagus (1 #aj ,alfonso de los ,rios1 #bch ,alhambra1 #ca1 #df1 sqq4 ,c\rt ( ,lions1 #ej ,almakk>i1 hi/orian1 #bc ,almanzor1 #bjj ,alva ,g>cia1 #ach ,alv>o de ,luna1 #bcb ,antequ]ra1 #dh ,arabic docum5ts1 #bcj ,aragon1 union (1 ) ,ca/ile1 #fg ,arfe1 silv] mon/rance by1 #adb ,arfe1 ,juan de1 #bbh ,arlanzn1 riv]1 #bcc ,a/orga1 #aic-aih ,ca!dral1 #aic1 sqq4 ,hi/orical sket*1 #aig ,augu/us1 ,emp]or1 #hd ,av]roes1 #cj ,avila1 #acg-add ,ca!dral1 #ha1 #ach ,avila1 ,hi/orical sket*1 #acg ,avila1 tomb (1 #adc ,badajos1 ,juan de1 #bae ,baeza1 #aie ,b>celona1 #hc1 #ia-ii ,ca!dral1 #ib1 sqq4 ,*ur* ( ,san ,pablo del ,campo1 #id ,*ur* ( ,santa ,m>ica del ,m>1 #ie ,*ur* ( ,santa ,m>ica del ,pi1 #ie ,hi/orical sket*1 #ia1 sqq4 ,rambla1 #ig ,b>celoneta1 suburb ( ,b>celona1 #if ,b>tolom1 & ! ,capilla ,real1 ,granada1 #ci ,beatrice ( ,swabia1 s>cophagus (1 #aj ,bec]ra1 ,gasp>1 #aie ,begg>s1 at ,cordova1 #bi1 #cj2 at ,seville1 #cj1 #ce2 at ,madrid1 #cj ,b]n>do de ,aragon1 tomb (1 #afd ,b]ruguete1 c>v+s by1 #aac1 #ada1 #bbh ,boabdil1 figure (1 at ,granada1 #da ,brutus1 ,junius1 f\nds colony on ! ,turia1 #ff ,bull-fights1 at ,seville1 #bj ,burgos1 #bcc-bdh ,capilla del ,conde/able1 #bch ,capilla del ,corpus ,*ri/i1 #bdb ,capilla de la ,pres5tacion1 #bci ,capilla de ,san ,enrique1 #bdj ,capilla del ,santissimo ,cri/o1 #bci ,ca!dral1 #bcc1 sqq4 ,*apel ( ,santa ,anna1 #bdj ,*ur* ( ,san ,dom+o de ,silos1 #bdd ,*ur* ( ,san ,juan de ,sahagun1 #bdj ,conv5t ( las ,huelgas1 #bde ,collegio de ,san ,nicolas1 #bdd ,hi/orical sket*1 #bcd1 sqq4 ,museum1 #bdd ,cadiz1 #a-e ,acadmia de ,bellas ,artes1 #d ,ca!dral1 #c1 #d ,hi/orical sket*1 #c ,m]cado1 #d ,cs>1 ,julius1 captures ,seville1 #g ,calix at ,val5cia1 #ga ,campaa1 ,p$ro1 pictures at ,seville1 #ab ,cano1 ,alonso1 pictures by1 at ,cadiz1 #d2 at ,seville1 #aa1 #ab2 builds faade ( ,ca!dral at ,granada1 #ch2 pictures by1 #ch2 pictures by1 at ,malaga1 #fj2 figure by at ,segovia1 #aea ,c>tuja de ,miraflores1 #bdf ,casa ,consi/orial1 ,b>celona1 #ie ,casa del ,cordon1 ,burgos1 #bdc ,catalua1 union ) ,aragon1 #ib ,c]vantes1 h\se (1 #bcb ,*>les ,v41 palace (1 #ed2 arms (1 #bcf ,*>tres ,ca!dral1 #baa ,*irrigu]a1 ,high ,alt> by1 #abi1 #ada1 #bbh ,cid1 !1 #fe1 #bja ,c(re del ,cid1 #bdb ,columbus1 monum5t at ,seville1 #aa2 h\se (1 #bcb ,comunros1 #bdc ,cordova1 #bc-cj ,capilla de ,nue/ra ,seorade ,villavicosia1 #be ,ca!dral1 #bd1 sqq4 ,conv5t de ,san ,j]onimo1 #cj ,hi/orical sket*1 #bc1 #bd ,mosques1 #bd1 #be ,cornielis1 "w (1 #ada ,corre de ,sol1 ,granada1 #ee ,cri/bal1 c>v+ by1 at ,tortosa1 #ha ,dalman de ,mur1 ,high ,alt> by1 #afd ,damian ,=m5t1 retablo1 #aff1 #afg ,d>ro1 riv] at ,granada1 #ca1 #cc1 #cd1 #cg ,de ,ga9za1 ,m>t91 #aj ,diego de ,porcelos1 #bdb ,diego de ,siloe1 plans ,ca!dral at ,granada1 #ch2 at ,malaga1 #ei ,duque de ,l]ma1 #bbf ,edw>d ,i41 m>riage (1 #bdd1 #bde ,el ,calv>io1 #aej ,el ,campan>io1 t[] at ,cordova1 #bg ,el ,cri/o de la ,luz1 ,tol$o1 #aae ,el ,grao1 port ( ,val5cia1 #fg ,el ,p>ral1 ,segovia1 #aed ,el ,transito1 ,tol$o1 #aad ,englefield1 ,sir ,francis1 #bcb ,escov$o1 ,juan1 #aej ,essex1 siege ( ,cadiz by ,"l1 #d ,f]d9& ,i41 #bjj1 m>riage (1 #bdc ,f]d9& & ,isabella1 monum5t at ,granada1 #dj2 portraits1 #da1 #dd1 #bbe2 arms (1 #bbg ,f]d9& el ,santos1 #bcd1 #bce ,francisco de ,l>a1 ceil+ by1 #aab ,francisco de ,pal5zuela1 tomb (1 #abf ,fruela ,i41 c(f9 (1 #bbj ,gallegos1 panels by1 #bjc ,gay1 #hd ,g5il1 riv] at ,granada1 #cd ,g]om9o1 tomb (1 #abf ,g]onimo1 #bjj ,g]ona1 #aja-aj ,ca!dral1 #ajc1 sqq4 ,*ur* ( ,san ,p$ro de los ,gallegans1 #aje ,hi/orical sket*1 #aja1 sqq4 ,gibralt>1 #eh ,gil de ,siloe1 #bdg ,giralda ,t[]1 ,seville1 #ac1 #ad ,gom>1 ,francisco1 "w at ,t>ragona1 #hf ,gonzalo de ,cordoba1 #de ,grado1 ,canon ,juan de1 tomb (1 #bjd ,granada1 #ca-ce ,albaic91 #ca ,alhambra1 #ca1 sqq4 ,antequ]uela1 #ca ,capilla de la ,antigue1 #ci ,capilla de ,pulg>1 #dd ,capilla ,real1 #db ,capilla de ,tr9idad1 #ch ,ca!dral1 #ch1 #dd ,*ur* ( ,san ,juan de los ,reyes1 #dd ,*ur* ( ,san ,niclas1 #dd ,*ur* ( ,santa ,anna1 #dd ,conv5t ( ,c>tuja1 #de ,conv5t ( ,san ,g]onimo1 #de ,greek rema9s1 ,tuy1 #ahc ,guadalete1 riv] at ,cadiz1 #e2 battle on banks (1 #eh ,guadalquiv]1 position ( ,cordova on1 #bc ,guadelm$9a1 !1 #fa ,guill]mo ,b(fy1 #ajd ,guti]rez1 ,bi%op1 #bai ,h]n&ez1 #bbi1 #bcj ,hontaon1 rebuilt dome ( ,seville ,ca!dral1 #ab2 ,salamanca ,ca!dral1 #abe2 ,segovia1 #aej ,hospital de ,santa ,cruz1 ,tol$o1 #aaf ,infante ,alfonso1 tomb (1 #bdh ,inigo de ,m5doz1 tomb (1 #aab ,james ,i41 ( ,aragon1 arm\r ( at ,val5cia1 #gj2 tomb (1 #hf ,jews at ,seville1 #ae ,john ( ,cologne1 #bcd1 #bch ,john ( ,gaunt1 #agh ,jos ,granados1 builds we/]n facade ( ,ca!dral1 ,granada1 #ch ,juan ,,ii41 #bd ,juan ,banti/a ,celma1 #agh ,juan1 ,pr9ce1 tomb (1 #adb ,juan de ,borgoa1 frescoes by1 #aab1 #ada ,juan de ,ca/ro1 #agh ,juan de ,juni1 #bbh ,juan de ,m5a1 #cj ,juan de ,padilla1 figure (1 #bdd ,juan de ,vallejo1 #bcg ,juanes1 ,la/ ,supp] by1 #ga ,la ,magd5a1 ,zamora1 #bja ,lanfr$o1 ,bi%op1 #hj ,la ,pea ,gaj]a1 #aed ,la ,pearala1 #aeh ,las ,navas de ,tolosa1 #bde ,leon1 #bje-baf ,ca!dral1 #bji ,*apel ( ,la ,nue/ra ,seora del ,dado1 #bac ,conv5t ( ,san ,isidoro el ,real1 #bad ,conv5t ( ,san ,m>cos1 #bae ,hi/orical sket*1 #bje1 sqq4 ,leovigild1 #bje ,loja1 #dh ,loyola1 relic (1 #ie ,lucan1 #cj ,madrazo1 designs by1 #baj ,mae/ro ,matio1 portrait (1 #agf ,malaga1 #eg-fc ,alcazba1 #fa ,ca!dral1 #ei ,hi/orical sket*1 #eg1 sqq4 ,m]cado1 #fa ,malagueta1 riv]1 #fa ,manrique de ,l>a1 ,bi%op1 #baj ,m>agatos1 !1 #aie ,m>cellus peoples ,cordova1 #bc ,m>ia ,padilla1 mi/ress ( ,p$ro ! ,cruel1 c(f9 (1 #aj ,maurice1 ,bi%op1 #bcd1 #bce ,m5a1 ,p$ro de1 pupil ( ,cano1 #fj ,m5doza1 ,c>d9al1 #bai ,me%wr1 #ec ,miguelete ,t[]1 #ff ,m9ho1 riv]1 #ahc ,monte ,mauro1 #cd ,morales1 #cj ,mulhac51 #dh ,murillo1 pictures at ,cadiz1 #d2 ,san ,antonio de ,padua at ,seville1 #aa2 9 ,seville ,museum1 #bj ,museum1 ,seville1 #bj ,napoleonic ,w>s1 #fg ,n>anco1 #bbc ,*ur* ( ,santa ,m>ia1 #bbc1 #bbd ,nicodemus1 #bci ,nicolas ,flor5t9o1 retablo by1 #abh ,nicolas de ,v]g>a1 c>v+ by1 #aac ,notre ,dame de ,p>is1 #baa ,oca1 ,bi%op1 #bce ,oar1 riv]1 #ajb ,ordoo ,i41 c(f9 (1 #bbj ,ordoo ,,ii41 #bac ,or5se1 #ahg-aia ,ca!dral1 #ahg1 sqq4 ,conv5t ( ,san ,francisco1 #aij ,hi/orical sket*1 #ahg ,ovi$o1 #bag-bbd ,capilla del ,rey ,ca/o1 #bbj ,ca!dral1 #bah ,hi/orical sket*1 #bah1 sqq4 ,panteon1 ,leon1 #bae ,p>ap&a1 ,m\nt1 #dh ,p$ro ! ,cruel1 c(f9 (1 #aj2 trees plant$ by1 #ad ,p$ro ,mato1 /atue (1 #aie ,pelayo1 #bbb ,petrucci ,orto1 *alice by1 #adb ,philip ,,ii4 de/roys mosques at ,cordova1 #bd ,philip ,vig>ni1 #bcg1 #bch ,philip & ,juana la ,loca1 tomb (1 at ,granada1 #dj2 c(f9s (1 #db ,pisu]ga1 riv]1 #bbe ,pl9y quot$1 #aig ,pradas1 "w (1 at ,granada1 #dc ,qu9tata1 ,c>d9al1 tomb (1 #aij ,ramiro ,,ii41 #bjj ,ramiro1 c(f9 (1 #bbj ,ramon ,b]5gu] ,i41 ,c\nt1 #ia ,ramon ,b]5gu] ,,ii41 & ,em5s5dis1 tombs (1 #ajd ,reus1 #hc ,ribalta1 pa9t+ by1 at ,val5cia1 #ga ,rib]a1 ,adoration by1 #ga ,roman rema9s1 at ,t>ragona1 #hd2 at ,segovia1 #adi ,roman ,sculpture at ,t>ragona1 #hi ,salamanca1 #aba-ace ,capilla del ,c>m51 #abf ,capilla ,mayor1 #abh ,capilla de ,san ,b>tolom1 #abh ,capilla de ,talav]a1 #abh ,ca!drals1 #aba1 #abd1 sqq41 #abg ,*ur* ( ,san ,p$ro1 #adc ,collegio ,mayor de ,santiago ,apo/ol1 #acb ,conv5t ( las ,agu/9as ,recoletas1 #acj ,gramm> ,s*ool1 #aca ,hi/orical sket*1 #abc1 sqq4 ,univ]sity1 #aca ,san ,p$ro1 riv] at ,cadiz1 #e ,santa ,eulalia1 body (1 #ic1 #bbj ,santiago1 #aga-aha ,ca!dral1 #agc1 sqq4 ,collegio de ,san ,g]nimo1 #ahj ,hi/orical sket*1 #agb ,santos ,cruz1 pictures by1 #ada ,s>agossa1 #aja1 #aei-agj ,*ur* ( ,san ,pablo1 #afg ,ca!drals1 #afb1 sqq4 ,el ,pil>1 #afe ,hi/orical sket*1 #aei1 sqq4 ,la ,seo1 #afb1 sqq4 ,seba/ian del ,piombo1 #bci ,segovia1 #ade-aeh ,capilla del ,cri/o del ,consuelo1 #aeb ,ca!dral1 #aej1 sqq4 ,*apel ( ,santa ,cantal9a1 #aeb ,*ur* ( ,san ,m>t91 #aec ,*ur* ( ,san ,millan1 #aec ,*ur* ( la ,v]a ,cruz1 #aec ,conv5t ( ,santa ,cruz1 #aec ,hi/orical sket*1 #adi1 sqq4 ,semple1 ,colonel1 #bcb ,s5eca1 #cj ,seville1 #g-ba ,capilla de ,san ,p$ro1 #aa ,capilla de ,santiago1 #aa ,ca!dral1 #h1 sqq4 ,hi/orical sket*1 #g ,jewi% qu>t]1 #ae ,si]ra de ,elvira1 #dh ,si]ra ,nevada1 #dh1 #ee ,s\*et1 sacks ,val5cia1 #fg ,t>ragona1 #hc-ij ,ca!dral1 #hd1 sqq4 ,hi/orical sket*1 #hc1 sqq4 ,tol$o1 #ajg-aai ,bridges1 #aaf1 #aag ,ca!dral1 #aji ,capilla de la ,desc5sion de ,nue/ra ,seora1 #aab ,capilla de ,reyes ,nuevo1 #aaa ,capilla de ,san ,ildefonso1 #aaa ,capilla de ,santiago1 #aab ,*ur* ( ,san ,juan de los ,reyes1 #aad ,*ur* ( ,santa ,m>ia la ,blanca1 #aad ,conv5t ( ,san ,dom+o el ,real1 #aae ,hi/orical sket*1 #ajg1 sqq4 ,jews' qu>t]1 #aad ,torquemada1 ,c>d9al1 #bbf ,tortosa1 #gg-hb ,c>v+ at1 by ,cri/obal1 #ha ,ca!dral #hj1 sqq4 ,hi/orical sket*1 #gh1 sqq4 ,triana1 #ai ,tribunal de ,aguas1 #fi ,tuy1 #ahc-ahe ,ca!dral1 #ahc1 sqq4 ,conv5t ( ,santa ,dom+o1 #ahe ,hi/orical sket*1 #ahc1 sqq4 ,urraca1 #bjj2 c(f9 (1 #bbj ,val5cia1 #fe-gf ,ca!dral1 #fi ,*ur* ( ,san ,m>t91 #gb ,*ur* ( ,santa ,catal9a1 #ga ,conv5t del ,c>m51 #ge ,conv5t ,esp9ose1 #ge ,conv5t ,juanes1 #ge ,conv5t ,ribalta1 #ge ,hi/orical sket*1 #fe1 sqq4 ,m]cado1 #gc1 #gd ,valladolid1 #bbe-bcb ,*ur* ( ,santa ,m>ia la ,antigua1 #bbf ,colegiata de ,san ,gregorio1 #bbg ,collegio de ,santa ,cruz1 #bbh ,hi/orical sket*1 #bbe ,scot* & ,engli% ,colleges1 #bcb ,univ]sity1 #bcj ,v>gas1 ,l\is de1 ,la ,gamba at ,seville1 #aa1 #ab ,vega1 !1 #fb ,velasquez1 tomb (1 #adb ,vig>ney1 c>v+s by1 #aac ,viladomt1 pictures by1 at ,b>celona1 #ie ,wamba1 great bell1 ,ovi$o1 #bbb ,well+ton1 ,duke (1 #dh ,xim5es1 #aab1 #bbg ,yahya1 ,moori% ,k+1 #fe ,zamora 1 #aii-bjd ,capilla del ,c>d9al1 #bjc ,capilla de ,san ,miguel1 #bjd ,ca!dral1 #bja1 sqq4 ,*ur* ( la ,magdal5a1 #bja ,*ur* ( ,san ,p$ro ( ,ildefonso1 #bja ,hi/orical sket*1 #bjj ,hospital1 #bja ,zurb>an1 pictures at ,cadiz1 #d2 at ,seville1 #aa1 #ab ,pr9t$ by ,,ballantyne ,,co4 ,,limit$ ,tavi/ock ,/reet1 ,cov5t ,g>d51 ,london 99 99 99 99 99 ,typographical errors correct$ by ! etext transcrib]4 matyrdoms ( ! ,ord]m>tyrdoms ( ! ,ord] ,witiza 9 ! meantime di$ & 0 suce$$,witiza 9 ! meantime di$ & 0 succe$$ ,! :ole rises 9 isolat$ gr&eur & & may p]haps ga9,! :ole rises 9 isolat$ gr&eur & may p]haps ga9 & if x happ5 to be a& if x happ5s to be a ! ar*es ( ! ! old bridge! ar*es ( ! old bridge s nam$ on ac\nt ( ! scallop %ellss nam$ on acc\nt ( ! scallop %ells %e is embrac+ me1 we dis5tagle ourselves%e is embrac+ me1 we dis5tangle ourselves b a %ort exsi/5ce z _! h\se ( pray]b a %ort exi/5ce z _! h\se ( pray] :o f\ght ?ree antagoni/s "o (t] ano!r & came (f successful:o f\ght ?ree antagoni/s "o aft] ano!r & came (f successful ,i 0 imm$iatley nonpluss$,i 0 imm$iately nonpluss$ ,b]n>do de ,arragon1 tomb (1 #afd;,b]n>do de ,aragon1 tomb (1 #afd