,transcrib]'s note3 ,a few typographical
 errors h be5 correct$3 !y are li/$ at !
 end ( ! text4         99       99      
99       99       99     ,lace   ,its   
,orig9   &   ,hi/ory    ,samuel ,l4     
,gold5b]g    ,illu/ration    ,br5tano's 
,new ,york   #aijd  ,,copyright$1 #aijd1
 ,,by ,,samuel ,l4 ,,gold5b]g4          
,illu/ration3 ,,b>b>a ,,uttmann1 ,a4 ,d4
 #aefa4      ,i h "h only a nosegay (   
cull$ fl[]s1 & h br\ght no?+     ( my   
own b ! ?read t ties !m                 
toge!r4--,montaigne4  ,! task ( ! au?or 
( ?is "w has n be5 an attempt to bru% ! 
du/ ( ages f ! e>ly hi/ory ( lace 9 !   
hope ( contribut+ to ! _w's /ore ( k on 
! subject4 ,8 purpose1 r1 has be5 to    
pres5t to ^? ^: relation to lace is     
prim>ily a comm]cial "o a comp5dium t   
may1 p]*ance1 9 times ( d\bt1 s]ve z a  
practical guide4  ,?\gh ?is plan has be5
 adh]$ to z closely z possible1 ! hi/ory
 ( lace is s int]wov5 ) life's com$ies &
 trag$ies1 ext5d+ back ov] five         
c5turies1 t !re mu/ be1 "h & !re 9 !    

foll[+ pages1 a rem9isc5t t+e ( ?is     
association4  ,lace is1 9 fact1 s       
indelibly associat$ ) ! *alets p]*$ high
 on m\nta9 tops1 ) little cottages 9 !  
valleys ( ! ,app59es & ,pyr5ees1 )      
seque/]$ conv5ts 9 prov9cial ,france1 ) 
! raim5t ( m5 & wom5 ^: names loom l>ge 
9 ! hi/ory ( ! _w1 & ! futile z well z !
 successful ef=ts ( inv5tors to relieve 
tir$ eyes & we>y f+]s1 t1 no matt] h[ "o
 attempts to treat ! subject1 x mu/ be  
color$ n[ & aga9 ) ! hues ( _m peoples (
 _m p]iods4  ,! au?or1 9 av[+ 8 purpose 
to give ?is "w a practical ca/1 does n  
wi% to be und]/ood z m9imiz+ !          
importance ( any ( ! /&>d works compil$ 
by ^? ^: ye>s ( /udy & rese>* among     
anci5t volumes & mu/y manuscripts 9 _m  
tongues h be5 a labor ( love4 ,r w\ld he
 pay ! me$ ( tribute to ^? :o h pres]v$ 
to po/]ity ! facts be>+ ^u ! e>ly hi/ory
 ( lace1 :i* h be5 g>n]$ ) su* great    
c>e4  ,nev]!less1 mo/ ( ^! works1       
necess>ily volum9\s & replete ) detail1 
are m = ! connoisseur or dilettante ?an 

= ! busy man ( affairs ^u :om !         
practical aspect ( lace1 q dissociat$ f 
! romance 9 :i* x is /eep$1 always =ces 
itself4  ,x is = m5 ( ?is type1 & ) no  
little misgiv+1 & a full appreciation ( 
h[ f> %ort ( 8 ideal ! volume mu/ be1 t 
! au?or has und]tak5 ! compilation ( ?is
 "w4    ,,samuel ,l4 ,,gold5b]g4        
,illu/ration  #a  ,,lace3  ,its ,orig9 &
 ,hi/ory4         99       99       99  
99       99  ,:5 :]e & h[ lace _h its   
orig9 no "o w pret5d to say4 ,!re is a  
g5]al agreem5t1 h[ev]1 t lace1 z ! t]m  
is und]/ood to-day1 is a comp>atively   
mod]n product1 x be+ impossible to      
id5tify any ( ! antique specim5s pres]v$
 f ! ravages ( "t z belong+ to a p]iod  
fur!r back ?an ! e>ly "p ( ! sixte5?    
c5tury4  ,true x is t !re are specim5s (
 wov5 fabrics ( a lacelike "* :i* 7     
und\bt$ly made at an e>li] date1 b mo/ (
 ! au?orities :o h delv$ deep into !    
subject are ( op9ion t lace probably    
does n ant$ate ,a4 ,d4 #aejj4  ,a p]usal
 ( ! available records 9 _m tongues     

fails to make cle> j :]e lace 0 fir/    
made4 ,spa91 ,italy1 ,belgium1 ,france &
 ,g]many h all claim$ ! honor1 & ea* has
 be5 able to pres5t a great deal (      
te/imony 9 support ( its cont5tion2 b ! 
records ( e>ly times are s meagre &     
indef9ite t x is impossible to be/[ !   
covet$ honor = ! discov]y ( ! art ^u any
 "o nation4 #b  ,! in/rum5t t is        
responsible = lace is ! ne$le1 b !      
e>lie/ =ms ( lace 7 n ! wov5 fabric t we
 "k to-day1 b r cutwork1 :i*1 z f> z we 
h any au!ntic records1 0 fir/ practic$  
by ! nuns 9 ! conv5ts ( c5tral & s\!rn  
,europe4 ,?is "w 0 sometimes *>act]iz$ z
 nun's "w1 & 0 design$ almo/ exclusively
 = alt> decorations & ! robes (         
prelates1 ?\gh x 0 also reg>d$ z !      
insignia ( rank & /ation4 ,"s ( !       
specim5s ( ?is "w1 /ill pres]v$ 9       
museums1 %[ t ! e>ly work]s possess$ a  
skill 9 ! art nev] excell$4 ,( c\rse1 ) 
! progress ( "t1 designs h become m     
ornate & intricate1 b _m ( ! old patt]ns
 /ill survive1 & d\btless w cont9ue to  

survive1 till ! end ( record$ "t4  ,!   
desire to elaborate ! edges ( pla9      
fabrics1 :e!r ( l95 or heavi] mat]ial1 0
 an entirely natural impulse to get away
 f ! h>% simplicity ( ! times4 ,to ?is  
desire mu/ be ascrib$ ! beg9n+ ( !      
mammo? lace indu/ry ( to-day4  ,"o      
au?ority says t coeval ) ^! /yles (     
decoration 0 drawnwork1 9 :i* ! weft &  
w>p ?reads ( pla9 l95 7 drawn out1 ?us  
=m+ a squ>e ( network made secure by a  
/it* at ea* int]section4 ,! design 0    
aft]w>d embroid]$1 frequ5tly ) colors4  
,p]haps1 all ?+s consid]$1 ! lace       
indu/ry receiv$ its greate/ impetus dur+
 ! p]iod kn[n 9 hi/ory z ! ,r5aissance1 
:5 ,europe1 em]g+ f ! sev]e & =mal g>b (
 ! ,m$ieval ,age1 began to b$eck itself 
9 ! mo/ graceful & beautiful mann]4  ,a 
numb] ( me?ods 7 employ$ 9 ! production 
( ! lace ( t brilliant p]iod1 ! simple/ 
( :i* consi/$ ( =m+ ! design indep5d5tly
 ( ! f\ndation4 ,?reads spread+ at ev5  
di/ances f a common c5t] s]v$ z a       
framework = o!rs :i* 7 unit$ 9 squ>es1  

triangles1 rosettes & o!r figures work$ 
ov] ) ! buttonhole /it*1 =m+ 9 "s       
portions op5work1 9 o!rs solid          
embroid]y4 ,?is 01 9 fact1 ! fir/       
ne$le-made lace1 & d\btless its orig9 is
 due to ! ,v5etians4  #c  ,illu/ration3 
,real ,flemi% ,po9t4  ,illu/ration3     
,real ,po9t de ,v5ise4  #d ,?r\gh       
con/ant practice ! art 0 develop$ to a v
 high /ate by ! nuns1 :o taught _!      
me?ods to ! pupils ( ! conv5ts1 ?r\gh   
:om ! k pass$ to ! peasantry1 & ?us     
became an important indu/ry4 ,p]haps1   
h[ev]1 ! developm5t ( ! lace indu/ry at 
?is p]iod 0 due m to ! spread ( ! me?ods
 by :i* x 0 done--?r\gh books m ?an 9   
any o!r mann]--= x mu/ be rememb]$ t    
contemporane\sly ) ! developm5t ( !     
indu/ry ! art ( pr9t+ 0 9 its fir/      
bloom4  ,z "o traces ! gr[? ( lacemak+ f
 ! e>lie/ times he is impress$ ) ! %>p  
advance made at ! beg9n+ ( ! sev5te5?   
c5tury1 :5 lacework]s1 hav+ practically 
exhau/$ ! designs possible by ! !n kn[n 
me?ods1 inv5t$ passem5t]ie1 :i* 7 kn[n z

 passem5ts4 ,^!1 speak+ broadly1 mu*    
resemble ! passem5t]ie ( to-day4  ,!y 7 
made ( /\t l95 ?read 9 imitation ( high 
relief "w ( ! ne$le po9t1 a ?ick ?read  
be+ introduc$ to m>k ! sali5t po9ts ( ! 
patt]n4 ,?us ! t]m guipure 0 appli$ to !
 ?read lace ) guipure reliefs1 & !      
designation has s9ce rema9$ to all laces
 )\t gr\nds1 9 :i* ! patt]ns are unit$  
by brides4  ,9 ! beg9n+ lace 0 made by  
two entirely di/9ct processes1 9 comm5t+
 ^u :i* we c d no bett] ?an to quote !  
words ( ,cole1 :i* are p>ticul>ly lucid 
& concise4 ,he says3 ,x is rem>kable t  
lacemak+ %\ld h sprung up or be5 inv5t$ 
at ab\t ! same p]iod ( "t by two        
entirely di/9ct processes )\t           
relation%ip or evolution betwe5 !m1 & t 
! p ( ! c\ntries :]e9 ei!r ( ! inv5tions
 0 made 7 n only #e unkn[n to ea* o!r1 b
 app>5tly nei!r _h any k ( ! processes (
 lacemak+ employ$ 9 ! o!r c\ntry4  ,"o (
 ^! processes is ! employm5t ( ! ne$le &
 ! s+le ?read1 :]e9 ! "w 0 p]fect$ me%  
by me%1 ea* me% be+ complet$ z ! "w     

progress$4  ,! o!r process 0 by ! use ( 
_m ?reads at once1 ea* "o atta*$ to     
bobb9s1 = ! purpose only ( sep>at+ !m1 !
 me%es be+ made by twi/+ ! ?reads a     
great] or less numb] ( times4 ,:5 ea*   
me% is only p>tially complet$ ! ?read is
 c>ri$ on to ! next1 & s on1 f side to  
side1 ! entire wid? ( ! fabric4  ,felk91
 9 8 hi/ory ( embroid]y & lace1 says t  
:5 pill[ lace 0 inv5t$--ab\t ! middle ( 
! sixte5? c5tury--! v>i\s k9ds ( po9t   
lace !n 9 use _h rea*$ a high /ate (    
p]fection4 ,"s e>ly writ]s aft] mu*     
labori\s inve/igation ass]t t pill[ lace
 0 fir/ made 9 ,fl&]s4 ,9 lat] ye>s x   
has be5 almo/ univ]sally attribut$ to   
,b>b>a1 wife ( ,*ri/oph] ,uttman2 %e 0  
!n dwell+ ) h] husb& at ! ,ca/le ( ,/4  
,annaburg1 ,belgium1 #aefa4 ,f ! ca/le1 
:]e %e taught ! peasantry z 9 a s*ool1 x
 soon spread ov] ! c\ntry1 & wom5 &     
girls ( ! di/rict1 f9d+ t ! mak+ ( lace 
0 m pr(itable ?an _! =m] employm5t (    
embroid]+ veils accord+ to ! ,italian   
practice1 adopt$ ! ,uttman me?od4 ,no   

trace ( ?is mode ( mak+ lace 7by use (  
pill[ & bobb9s7 c be f\nd be=e ?is date2
 h5ce ! presumption t ^! 7 ! "t & place 
( ! inv5tion ( bobb9 lace4 ,b>b>a       
,uttman di$ 9 #aege4 ,t %e 0 ! true     
inv5tress is record$ on h] tomb4  ,x w  
be se5 f ! =ego+ t "o process _h its    
orig9 9 ,italy1 & ! o!r its orig9 9     
,belgium1 ?\gh1 if we accept ,felk9's   
/atem5t1 we mu/ accord to ,italy ! fir/ 
honor1 = he says #f di/9ctly t !        
,belgian peasantry gave up mak+ lace    
accord+ to ! ,italian me?od to adopt !  
process inv5t$ by ,b>b>a ,uttman2       
consequ5tly1 ! ,italian me?od mu/ h be5 
fir/4 ,! pres5t writ] disclaims any     
int5tion to dispose ( ?is moot "q1 & is 
only l$ to ! above obs]vation by reason 
( ! high /&+ :i* ,felk9's "w has atta9$4
  ,!re are two broad divisions (        
lace--namely1 h&-made lace & ma*9e-made 
lace4 ,9 ! _w ( comm]ce to-day !        
latt]-nam$ product1 :i* is b a *ild ( ! 
=m]1 is va/ly ! m important4 ,?is = !   
reason t h&-made lace1 :i* is produc$ ) 

su* ardu\s toil1 skill & pati5ce1 is    
beyond ! purse ( ! million1 & is & ev]  
mu/ be consid]$ z "o ( ! luxuries4      
,true1 "s ( ! simpl] =ms ( h&-made lace 
are produc$ ) relatively great facility1
 & ! price is correspond+ly *eap1 z     
comp>$ ) ! delicate1 f9ely wr\ght       
designs1 t x sometimes takes ye>s to    
produce4 ,nor is ?is ! sole reason = !  
popul>ity ( ma*9e-made laces1 = to su*  
p]fection has ! me*anical art ( lacemak+
 atta9$ t x is practically impossible1  
ev5 = exp]ts1 to detect ! diff]5ce      
betwe5 lace made by ! deft1 cunn+ f+]s (
 lady or maid f ! lace made possible by 
mod]n ma*9]y4  ,9 h&-made lace ! two    
pr9cipal classes are ! ne$le-po9t &     
bobb91 or pill[-made1 lace4 ,ne$le-po9t 
lace is work$ ^u loose ?reads laid ^u a 
previ\sly drawn patt]n1 b :i* h no po9t 
( contact ) "o ano!r & no coh]5cy until 
! ne$lework b9ds !m toge!r4 ,?is "w is  
done ) a ne$le & s+le ?read4 ,z we h    
said1 ! patt]n is fir/ drawn1 usually ^u
 p>*m5t2 a piece ( heavy l95 is /it*$ to

 ! p>*m5t = ! purpose ( hold+ x /raight2
 !n ?reads to ! numb] ( two1 ?ree1 f\r1 
or m1 are laid along ! _m l9es ( !      
patt]n1 & sew$ lightly d[n ?r\gh p>*m5t 
& l954 ,! entire figure is !n c>ri$ out1
 bo? solid fill+ & op5work1 ) f9e /it*+1
 ! buttonhole /it* be+ mo/ g5]ally      
employ$4  #g  ,illu/ration3 ,real       
,du*esse & ,po9t ,gaze4  ,illu/ration3  
,real ,c>rick-ma-,cross4  #h ,bobb91 or 
pill[-made1 lace is ! highe/ arti/ic    
developm5t ( twi/$ & plait$ ?reads4 ,x  
is made f a l>ge numb] ( ?reads atta*$  
by means ( p9s to an oval-%ap$ cu%ion or
 pill[1 ea* ?read be+ w\nd ^u a small   
bobb94 ,! design1 z 9 ! mak+ (          
ne$le-po9t lace1 is fir/ drawn on /iff  
pap] or p>*m5t1 & c>efully /ret*$ ov] ! 
pill[4 ,!n ! patt]n is prick$ out along 
! outl9e ( ! draw+ & small p9s are      
introduc$ at close int]vals1 ar\nd :i* !
 ?reads "w to =m ! v>i\s me%es & op5+s4 
,f "r to left ! ?read is b\nd lightly ^u
 ! bobb9s & ti$ at ! top ( ea* 9 a loop 
t p]mits x gradually to slip (f ! bobb9 

:5 g5tly pull$1 z occurs g5]ally :5     
work+4  ,! work] beg9s by int]lac+ !    
bobb9s1 :i* are us$ 9 pairs1 plac+ small
 p9s 9 all p]=ations1 & cross+ ! bobb9s 
aft] ! ins]tion ( ea* p94 ,ar\nd ^! p9s 
! design is =m$1 ! ?reads be+ cross$ &  
recross$ & pass$ "u & ov] ea* o!r )     
rem>kable rapidity & accuracy4 ,:5 !    
:ole wid? ( ! l>ge piece ( lace is c>ri$
 on toge!r ! numb] ( bobb9s & p9s is v  
great & ! "w highly exp5sive1 b x is    
cu/om>y to "w ea* sprig sep>ately1 ^!   
be+ jo9$ toge!r 9 ! =m ( a /rip aft]w>d 
by means ( a curi\s loop-/it*1 made by a
 hook call$ a ne$le-p94  ,sc>cely _h    
lace be5 inv5t$ be=e x _h assum$ almo/  
priceless value1 & x is wor? :ile rem>k+
 "h t ?\gh c5turies h s9ce elaps$1 !    
value ( ^! delicate1 h&-wr\ght fabrics  
has n 9 any s5se dim9i%$4 ,?r\gh\t !    
sixte5?1 sev5te5?1 eighte5? & n9ete5?   
c5turies r>e lace ( beautiful patt]n has
 be5 highly priz$1 "s ( ! e>lie/        
specim5s1 9 ! possession ( _w-fam\s     
libr>ies & museums1 be+ ( relatively    

fabul\s weal?4  #i  ,illu/ration3 ,real 
,iri% ,po9t4  ,illu/ration3 ,real       
,val5ci5nes4  #aj ,by v reason ( !      
conditions inevitably associat$ ) its   
mak+1 lace mu/ always rema9 "o ( ! de>e/
 articles ( comm]ce1 = !re is c]ta9ly   
no?+ m r>e or co/ly ?an ^! f9e1 da9ty1  
yet )al1 sub/antial tissues4  ,p]haps ( 
all h] compe]s ,v5ice atta9$ ! highe/   
pr(ici5cy 9 ! production ( beautiful    
lace4 ,!re1 z we h rem>k$1 ne$le-po9t _h
 its orig91 & _m ( ! beautiful patt]ns  
produc$ by ! wom5 ( ! ,que5 ( !         
,adriatic are ev5 to-day ! admiration ( 
all :o h a true appreciation ( !        
arti/ic4  ,v5ice gu>d$ ! secret ( h]    
me?ods ) jeal\s c>e1 & x 0 _m ye>s be=e 
! _w 0 made famili> ) ! mann] 9 :i* !   
exquisite floral designs1 ) _! weal? (  
m9or adornm5ts1 7 work$ out4 ,?us ,italy
 0 able to lay tribute ^u ! entire      
civiliz$ _w1 & h] c(f]s 7 enri*$ to     
ov]fl[+ f ! receipts ( ! sales ( lace to
 ea/]n1 c5tral & nor!rn ,europe4        
,apropos ( ,italy's claim to ! inv5tion 

( ne$le-po9t1 x has be5 claim$ t !      
,italians orig9ally d]iv$ ! art ( f9e   
ne$lework f ! ,greek refugees 9 ,italy1 
:ile ano!r au?or ass]ts t ! ,italians   
are indebt$ to ! ,s>ac5s ( ,sicily = _! 
k4 ,all ^! claims1 h[ev]1 are m]ely     
speculative4 ,= in/ance1 no "o disputes 
t embroid]y ant$ates lace1 & yet we h   
au?ors :o endeavor to %[ t embroid]y _h 
its orig9 9 ,arabia1 d$uc+ f ?is t lace1
 also1 mu/ h _h its bir? 9 "o ( !       
,ori5tal c\ntries4 ,b x is a            
well-e/abli%$ fact t :ile we h absolute 
k ( ! exi/5ce ( embroid]y 9 ! c\ntries (
 ! ,levant1 !re is absolutely no        
indication1 ( ev5 ! slighte/ value1 t   
po9ts to ! exi/5ce ( lace be=e x 0 made 
by ! ,italians & ,belgians4 #aa  ,9 !   
municipal ar*ives ( ,f]r>a1 dat$ #adfi1 
is an allusion to lace1 b !re is a      
docum5t ( ! ,s=za family1 dat$ 9 #adic1 
9 :i* ! ^w tr9a con/antly occurs1 toge!r
 ) bone & bobb9 lace4  ,spa9 01 z f> z !
 records te/ify1 ! e>lie/ & mo/ adept   
pupil ( ,italy 9 ! art ( lacemak+1 ?\gh1

 z 9 ,italy1 at ! beg9n+ ! "w 0 conf9$ 9
 ! ,ib]ian p59sula to ! inmates ( !     
conv5ts4 ,spa91 too1 a*iev$ high        
di/9ction 9 ?is field1 its ,po9t        
d',espagne be+ "o ( ! mo/ celebrat$ (   
all ! anci5t laces1 ev5 vy+ ) ! f9e/    
,v5etian po9t4 ,9 ^? days1 z w be       
recall$1 ! p[] ( ! ,*ur* 0 absolute1 & !
 use ( laces = daily we> 0 prohibit$1   
?\gh on ,sundays & holidays x 0 greatly 
9 evid5ce 9 ! attire ( ^? ( high /ation4
  ,"o ( ! mo/ int]e/+ facts conc]n+ !   
developm5t ( lace has to d ) ! patt]ns  
produc$ 9 ! v>i\s localities ( ,europe4 
,9 ! beg9n+ ! numb] ( designs 0         
necess>ily limit$1 b z ! indu/ry        
develop$ & spread1 & z ! work]s became m
 exp]t & arti/ic1 !re 0 an              
uncontrollable impulse to break away f  
conv5tional designs & to evolve new     
patt]ns4 ,!n1 too1 !re 0 some?+ ( ! _s (
 pride beh9d ?is movem5t--a sort ( local
 patriotism1 if x may s be t]m$4 ,!     
,belgian1 ! ,spani>d & ! ,fr5*man 7 n   
cont5t slavi%ly to imitate ,italian     

designs1 &1 anxi\s to w9 a "n =         
!mselves1 set ab\t to produce new       
effects t w\ld imm$iately id5tify !m ) !
 place ( _! orig94  ,?us x 01 too1 t    
v>i\s cities & t[ns 9 ,italy1 ,france1  
,belgium1 ,spa9 & else:]e s\ght to      
e/abli% = !mselves an individual product
 ( great excell5ce t w\ld give to ! city
 or t[n pre/ige & r5[n 9 ! !n few       
comm]cial m>ts ( ! _w4 ,?is expla9s !   
v>i\s names :i* 7 giv5 to di/9ct #ab    
types ( laces hundr$s ( ye>s ago1 & :i* 
designations /ill obta91 z1 = in/ance1  
,al5con1 ,val5ci5nes1 ,*antilly1        
,honiton1 ,arras1 ,bayeux1 ,g5oa1       
,flor5ce1 etc4  ,ano!r fact wor?y (     
record is t ( all ! almo/ numb]less     
designs t h be5 giv5 to ! _w s9ce ! bir?
 ( lace !re h be5 "s "o or two          
*>act]i/ics t tell z pla9ly z ?\gh      
express$ 9 words t ea* "o ( ^! designs 0
 made at "s p>ticul> p]iod ( hi/ory4 ,x 
is well t ?is is s1 = x has enabl$ !    
hi/orian to trace1 ) m or less c]ta9ty1 
! developm5t ( ! indu/ry4 ,9 o!r words1 

a lace exp]t is enabl$ to tell f !      
fabric n only 9 :at c\ntry x 0 made1 b 9
 :at "p ( t c\ntry1 & also ! approximate
 date4  ,9 ! self-suffici5cy ( ! pres5t 
age we are apt to reg>d ) a sort (      
sup]cili\s disda9 any /ory reflect+ ^u !
 supremacy ( our =ebe>s 9 any ( ! arts  
or ! sci5ces2 b t we _c make1 9 a       
comm]cial way1 su* lace z 0 wov5 9 !    
sixte5? & sev5te5? c5turies is beyond   
"q4 ,9 ! fir/ place1 "t is lack+1 & if x
 mu/ be confess$1 ! great skill t comes 
only ?r\gh ye>s ( con/ant practice is   
also lack+4  ,mod]n real lace is        
arti/ic1 ev5 sup]ior1 b comp>$ ) su* few
 specim5s z h come d[n to u ( ! "w ( !  
lacemak]s ( old1 its defici5cy1         
p>ticul>ly 9 ! matt] ( ! f95ess ( !     
execution & ?read1 is at once app>5t4   
,h&-made lace is to-day produc$ all ov] 
! _w2 comm]cially its production is     
conf9$ to ,france1 ,belgium1 ,g]many1   
,spa91 ,italy & ,engl&1 :]e l>ge        
quantities are /ill produc$4 ,france1   
h[ev]1 ) t fo/]+ c>e :i* %e has be/[$ ^u

 h] _m o!r arts1 & ) t ke5 appreciation 
( ! beautiful t is s inh]5t 9 h] p1 is  
f> 9 ! van 9 ! matt] ( produc+ h&-made  
lace1 ?\gh 9 respect to two or ?ree     
types ,belgium is 9 ! front rank4 #ac   
,illu/ration3 ,real ,honiton4           
,illu/ration3 ,real ,flor5t9e4  #ad     
,com+ d[n to ! "q ( ma*9e-made lace1 x  
is necess>y to obs]ve at ! outset t !   
same di/9ctions t exi/ betwe5 ! g5u9e & 
! imitation d n obta9 z appli$ to ^!    
fabrics4 ,9 o!r words1 ! k t lace is a  
product ( ! frame r ?an ! f+]s 9 no s5se
 condemns x4 ,= to su* a high plane has 
! me*anical production ( lace be5 lift$ 
t "o is almo/ tempt$ to say t ! products
 vie 9 beauty ( design & p]fection (    
f9i% ) ! lace produc$ by h&4 ,t !re is  
w>rant = ?is seem+ exagg]ation is borne 
out by ! fact t n infrequ5tly x is      
impossible = exp]ts to tell ! diff]5ce  
betwe5 two specim5s ( lace ( ! same     
design1 "o made by h& & ! o!r by ma*9e4 
,:at inv5tors h accompli%$ 9 ?is respect
 is truly m>vel\s4 ,9 ! beg9n+ _! ef=ts 

7 n at all satisfactory1 & ! hi/ory (   
ma*9e-made lace ab\nds ) pa!tic in/ances
 ( m5 :o s\ght 9 va9 to duplicate )     
fidelity1 by means ( me*anical devices (
 hundr$s ( types & patt]ns1 ! dextr\s   
t\* ( ! human h&4  ,w4 ,felk91 9 8      
hi/ory ( lace manufacture1 says t lace  
net 0 fir/ made by ma*9]y 9 #agfh4 ,o!r 
au?orities place ! date z betwe5 #ageh &
 #agfj4 ,9 #ahji bobb9 net 0 inv5t$1 & 9
 #ahcg ! ,jacqu>d sy/em 0 appli$ to !   
bobb9et ma*9e4  ,mrs4 ,b4 ,pallis]1 9 ,!
 ,hi/ory ( ,lace1 says ( ! inv5tion (   
ma*9]y = ! production ( lace t ! cr$it  
is usually assign$ to ,hammond1 a /ock+ 
framework knitt] ( ,nott+ham1 :o1 exam9+
 "o day ! broad lace on 8 wife's cap1   
?\ght he c\ld apply 8 ma*9e to !        
production ( a simil> article4 ,8       
attempt s f> succe$$ t1 by means ( !    
/ock+ frame inv5t$ 9 ! previ\s c5tury1  
he produc$1 9 #agfh1 n lace1 b a k9d (  
knitt+ ( runn+ loops or /it*es4 #ae  ,9 
#aggg ,else & ,h>vey introduc$ at       
,nott+ham ! p9 or po9t net ma*9e1 s nam$

 because made on %>p p9s or po9ts4 ,po9t
 net 0 foll[$ by v>i\s o!r /it*es ( a   
lacelike "*1 b despite ! progress made1 
all ef=ts at produc+ a solid net 7      
futile4 ,x 0 /ill no?+ m ?an knitt+1 a  
s+le ?read pass+ f "o end ( ! frame to !
 o!r1 & if a ?read broke ! "w 0         
unravel$4 ,?is 0 ov]come 9 a measure by 
gumm+ ! ?reads1 giv+ ! fabric a solidity
 & body n possible )\t resort+ to "s    
artificial me?od ( ?is sort4  ,! great  
problem inspir$ ! ef=ts ( numb]less     
inv5tors1 & _m attempts 7 made to comb9e
 ! me*anism us$ respectively by ! knitt]
 & ! weav]1 & aft] _m failures a ma*9e 0
 produc$ :i* made ,me*l9 net4  ,!re are 
few hi/ories be>+ ^u ! inv5tion (       
labor-sav+ devices t are s replete ) !  
records ( failure z is ! hi/ory ( !     
attempt to produce a practical lace     
ma*9e4 ,john ,hea?coat1 ( ,leice/]%ire1 
,engl&1 0 ! inv5tor ( ! ma*9e = mak+    
bobb9 net4 ,8 pat5ts 7 tak5 out 9 #ahji1
 & to him mu/ be accord$ ! cr$it ( solv+
 = ! fir/ "t ! problem t _h vex$ ! m9ds 

( s _m inv5tors & _h deplet$ ! purses ( 
s _m capitali/s4  ,! bobb9 net ma*9e1 s 
nam$ because ! ?reads are w\nd ^u       
bobb9s1 fir/ produc$ a net ab\t an in* 9
 wid?1 aft]w>d1 h[ev]1 produc+ x a y>d  
wide4  ,x 0 ! application ( ! celebrat$ 
,jacqu>d atta*m5t to ! lace ma*9e t has 
made possible ! duplication (           
practically e patt]n ( lace made by h&4 
,! ma*9e ( ,hea?coat 0 va/ly improv$ by 
,john ,leav]s1 also ( ,nott+ham1 & !    
types produc$ by him are /ill 9 use     
?r\gh\t ,engl& & ,france1 ?\gh1 ( c\rse1
 !re are 9 ^! days a l>ge numb] (       
diff]5t #af types ( ma*9es be>+ diff]5t 
names1 b ! pr9ciple ( ! ,leav]s ma*9e1 m
 or less modifi$1 obta9s 9 practically  
all ( ! devices4 ,!re=e a description ( 
! process ( lacemak+ by ! ,leav]s frame 
w s]ve z a description = all4  ,! numb] 
( ?reads br\ght into op]ation 9 ?is     
ma*9e is regulat$ by ! patt]n to be     
produc$4 ,! ?reads are ( two sorts1 w>p 
& bobb9 ?reads4 ,upw>d ( #i1jjj are     
sometimes us$1 sixty pieces ( lace be+  

made at once1 ea* piece requir+ #adh    
?reads 7#ajj w>ps & #dh bobb9 ?reads74  
,! supply ( w>p ?reads is held ^u reels1
 ! bobb9s c>ry+ _! own supply4 ,! w>p   
?reads are /ret*$ p]p5dicul>ly & ab\t   
wide en\gh ap>t to admit a silv] qu>t]  
pass+ edgeways betwe5 !m4 ,! bobb9s are 
flatt5$ 9 %ape s z to pass conv5i5tly   
betwe5 ! w>ps4 ,ea* bobb9 c conta9 ab\t 
#abj y>ds ( ?read4 ,by mo/ +5i\s        
me*anism v>y+ degrees ( t5sion c be     
imp>t$ to w>p & bobb9 ?reads z requir$4 
,! bobb9s1 z !y pass l p5dulums betwe5 !
 w>p ?reads1 are made to oscillate1 &   
?r\gh ?is oscillation ! ?reads twi/     
!mselves or become twi/$ ) ! w>p ?reads1
 z requir$ by ! patt]n t is be+ produc$4
 ,z ! twi/+ takes place1 combs compress 
! twi/+s1 mak+ !m m compact4 ,if ! bobb9
 ?reads be made tight & ! w>p ?reads    
slack1 ! latt] w be twi/$ ^u ! =m]2 b if
 ! w>ps are br\ght to a t5sion & ! bobb9
 ?reads be slack1 !n ! latt] w be twi/$ 
on ! w>ps4 ,! combs are s regulat$ t !y 
come cle> away f ! ?reads z soon z !y h 

press$ !m toge!r1 & fall into position  
ready to p]=m _! press+ op]ations aga94 
,! contrivances = giv+ ea* ?read a      
p>ticul> t5sion & movem5t at a c]ta9 "t 
are connect$ ) an adaptation ( !        
,jacqu>d sy/em ( pi]c$ c>ds4 ,! lace    
ma*9e is highly complicat$1 mu* ( its   
complexity be+ due to ! me*anism by :i* 
! oscillat+ or lat]al movem5ts are      
produc$4 ,exp]t workm5 prep>e ! work+   
draw+s = ! lace ma*9e1 & also p]=m ! m  
important duties 9 its op]ation1 b a    
l>ge "p ( ! "w is c>ri$ on by wom5 &    
girls4  #ag  ,illu/ration3 ,real ,po9t  
,applique4  #ah ,"o ( ! mo/ int]e/+     
developm5ts ( ! lace indu/ry has be5 !  
gradual evolution f ! "w ( ! h& toil]s  
to ! utilization ( complex ma*9]y4 ,9   
addition to ! ,leav]s ma*9e1 :i* is     
ref]r$ to else:]e 9 ext5so1 ! embroid]y 
ma*9e plays a v important "p 9 ! mak+ ( 
laces4 ,f #ahgj to #ahhj1 v>i\s ef=ts _h
 be5 made to produce lace on ! embroid]y
 ma*9e1 & x 0 dur+ ?is decade t ! fir/  
success 0 a*iev$ 9 ! mak+ ( ,ori5tal or 

net laces 9 ,plau54 ,?is 0 ! fir/ actual
 production ( lace f ! embroid]+ ma*9e1 
& ?is sort ( lace1 :i* /ill exi/s       
to-day1 is really an embroid]y on a net1
 al?\gh usually designat$ z lace4 ,a few
 ye>s lat] a discov]y 0 made :i* effect$
 a great *ange 9 ! mak+ ( laces on !    
embroid]y ma*9e4 ,?is 0 ! pr9ciple (    
embroid]+ on a mat]ial :i* 0 aft]w>d    
remov$ by a *emical process4 ,! fir/    
article produc$ 0 call$ ,guipure de     
,g5es1 & 0 at t "t pat5t$1 b ! pat5t 0  
held to be invalid1 & a few ye>s aft]w>d
 ?is article 0 g5]ally produc$ bo? 9 ,/4
 ,gall1 :]e x fir/ appe>$1 & 9 ,plau54  
,by ?is me?od ( manufacture are produc$ 
to-day all ( ! imitation guipure laces1 
su* z ,po9t de ,v5ise1 ,rose ,po9t1     
,po9t de ,g5es1 etc4 #ai  ,illu/ration3 
,real ,*antilly4  ,illu/ration3 ,real   
,spani%4  #bj  ,! embroid]+ ma*9e 9 use 
at ! pres5t day is con/ruct$ entirely ( 
iron1 measur+ f #ae to #bj feet long1 #i
 feet high1 #i feet wide & weighs ab\t  
#c1hjj p\nds4 ,x c be op]at$ by h& or by

 p[]4 ,! me?od ( embroid]+ is exce$+ly  
simple4 ,! clo?1 usually some:at ov]    
#d-a_/b y>ds long1 is tightly /ret*$ 9  
an upright position 9 ! c5t] ( ! ma*9e1 
ea* end ( ! susp5d$ /rip be+ held firmly
 by means ( /\t hooks4 ,! ne$les 7f #aej
 to #cjj 9 numb]1 accord+ to ! sort ( "w
 to be done7 are arrang$ horizontally 9 
a framework 9 a /raight1 level r[1 all  
po9t+ t[>d ! clo? & ext5d+ f end to end 
( same4 ,! ne$les are suppli$ ) ?reads  
ab\t "o y>d 9 l5g?1 :i* are fa/5$ by    
means ( a peculi> knot to ! eye1 ! latt]
 be+ 9 ! middle ( ! ne$le in/ead ( at ! 
end4 ,9 produc+ any giv5 /it* 9 ! patt]n
 to be work$1 ! long r[ ( ne$les all    
move =w>d at once at ! w ( ! op]ator1 & 
?us duplicate ! /it* 9 e patt]n or      
section along ! entire #d-a_/b y>ds (   
clo? susp5d$ 9 ! ma*9e4 ,z may be       
readily und]/ood1 ! ma*9e 9 ?is mann]   
completes #d-a_/b y>ds ( embroid]y 9 !  
same "t x w\ld take a woman ) a ne$le to
 f9i% a s+le patt]n4 ,:5 "o r[ is       
complet$ ! /rip ( clo? is rais$ & ano!r 

r[ is made1 & s on until x is necess>y  
to put 9 ano!r l5g? ( cambric4 ,?is     
ma*9e is capable ( mak+ patt]ns f ! v   
n>r[ up to ! full wid? ( ! clo?4  ,:at  
is kn[n z ! ,s*iffli1 or p[] ma*9e1 is v
 simil> to ! h&-embroid]+ device1 be+ an
 improvem5t on ! latt] & work$ ) a      
%uttle 9 addition to ! ne$les4 ,its     
capacity is ne>ly eight times great]1 or
 f #ae1jjj to #ah1jjj /it*es p] day1    
aga9/ #b1jjj to #c1jjj on ! h& ma*9e4   
,to (fset ?is advantage1 h[ev]1 !       
,s*iffli ma*9e is mu* m exp5sive1 & is (
 delicate & complicat$ con/ruction1     
easily got out ( ord] & co/ly to repair4
 ,until a comp>atively rec5t date !     
,s*iffli 0 n consid]$ z a competitor ( !
 h& ma*9e1 its "w be+ inf]ior 9 quality 
& conf9$ to simple patt]ns4 ,at pres5t1 
h[ev]1 x is g5]ally conc$$ t ! goods    
produc$ by x n only compete ) ! h&-ma*9e
 products1 b are already sup]s$+ ! latt]
 to "s ext5t4 ,x is pr$ict$ t ! ,s*iffli
 ma*9e1 op]at$ by p[]1 w ultimately     
supply all ! embroid]y 9 ! l[ & m$ium   

grades4 #ba  ,! v>iety & adaptability ( 
! designs :i* bo? ( ^! ma*9es are       
capable ( produc+ are endless1 & at !   
same "t comp>atively inexp5sive4 ,x is  
?is latt] fact :i* acc\nts = ! great    
advantage ( ! embroid]+ ma*9e ov] ! lace
 ma*9e4 ,! prep>+ & sett+ ( a design = a
 lace ma*9e is v exp5sive1 & ! great co/
 compels ! manufactur] ( ma*9e lace to  
turn out l>ge quantities ( "o set patt]n
 9 ord] to get a return f 8 inve/m5t4   
,ab\t ! beg9n+ ( ! n9ete5? c5tury1 lace 
ma*9es 7 fir/ introduc$ into ,france f  
,nott+ham1 at ,b\logne-sur-m]1 :]e !    
indu/ry rema9$ = a few ye>s & !n mov$ to
 ,calais4 ,!re ?is indu/ry has develop$ 
& increas$ to su* proportions t ,calais 
is n[ ! pr9cipal city = ! production (  
f9e laces ( all k9ds1 & practically     
leads ,nott+ham 9 creat+ novelties & new
 & orig9al effects4 ,%ortly aft] !      
,franco-,prussian w> ! indu/ry f\nd a   
foo?old 9 ,caudry1 9 ! nor? ( ,france1  
:]e x has also develop$ to q l>ge       
proportions1 & %>es to-day a l>ge "p ( !

 trade :i* has result$ f ! f\nd+ ( !    
p>5t indu/ry 9 ,calais4 ,! k9d ( lace   
produc$ 9 ,caudry is g5]ally ( a *eap]  
"* ?an t produc$ 9 ,calais4  ,9 ,lyons1 
too1 !re has be5 e/abli%$ = _m ye>s !   
indu/ry ( mak+ laces & nett+s by        
me*anical processes4 ,?is is /ill a v   
l>ge indu/ry1 & ab\t tw5ty ye>s ago !re 
0 a l>ge trade done ) ,am]ica 9 !       
manufacture ( laces 9 vogue at t "t1 :i*
 7 ! imitation ( ! real ,spani%1 call$  
,blonde ,gr5ade4 ,!re are /ill made 9   
,lyons to-day v>i\s imitations ( f9e    
laces1 :i* 9 a g5]al way are ( a diff]5t
 quality to ! laces made at ,calais or  
,caudry1 & ,lyons enjoys a reputation 9 
reg>d to ! "* ( ! laces x produces :i*  
is unique 9 ! trade4  ,ab\t ! ye> #ahij1
 a ,fr5*man inv5t$ a ma*9e simil> 9 #bb 
pr9ciple to ! knitt+ ma*9e1 :i*         
reproduces ) absolute fidelity ! "w ( ! 
bobb9s 9 mak+ pill[ laces4 ,?r\gh ?is   
inv5tion he 0 able to imitate su*       
h&-made laces z ,tor*ons1 ,m$icis1 etc41
 s exactly t exp]ts c\ld n detect !     

diff]5ce4 ,9 fact1 x is ! g5]al te/imony
 ( m5 associat$ ) laces = ye>s1 t ! "w (
 ?is ma*9e 9 a great _m ( its aspects is
 "o ( ! mo/ important contributions ( ! 
me*anical arts 9 ! production ( lace4   
,?r\gh ! importation ( =eign ma*9es &   
=eign workm51 v>i\s attempts h be5 made 
9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates to e/abli% !          
manufacture ( lace4 ,at ! pres5t writ+ x
 is impossible to /ate ) any def9it5ess 
:at ! result w be1 z ! exp]im5t has be5 
( only a few ye>s' duration1 & 9 ! v    
nature ( ?+s is at ?is date ( a t5tative
 "*4  ,9 ord] t ! read] may be able to  
di/+ui% ! v>i\s types ( h& & ma*9e made 
laces1 we app5d h]e) a gloss>y1 def9+ z 
concisely z possible ! *>act]i/ics t    
indicate n only ! manifold makes (      
laces1 b :at may be call$ ! v>i\s       
sub-divisions4 ,^! def9itions are set   
=?1 ! writ] hopes1 9 t]ms t w enable !  
read] to und]/& :at ea* "o ( ! v>i\s    
names means1 bo? z appli$ comm]cially & 
descriptively4 #bc  ,illu/ration3 ,real 
,po9t ,gaze4  ,illu/ration3 ,imitation  

,du*esse4  #bd  ,,*>act]i/ics ,,( ,,!   
,,diff]5t ,,types ,,( ,,lace4           
,,al5con4--,a f9e1 ne$le-po9t lace1 s   
call$ f ,al5con1 a ,fr5* city1 9 :i* its
 manufacture 0 fir/ begun4 ,x is ! only 
,fr5* lace n made ^u ! pill[1 ! "w be+  
done entirely by h&1 ) a f9e ne$le1 ^u a
 p>*m5t patt]n 9 small pieces4 ,! pieces
 are aft]w>d unit$ by invisible seams4  
,!re are usually twelve processes1      
includ+ ! design employ$ 9 ! production 
( a piece ( ?is k9d ( lace1 & ea* ( ^!  
processes is execut$ by a special       
workwoman2 b 9 #ahee1 at ,bayeux1 9     
,france1 a dep>ture 0 made f ! old cu/om
 ( assign+ a special bran* ( ! "w to ea*
 lacemak]1 & ! fabric 0 made ?r\gh all  
its processes by "o work]4  ,! design is
 engrav$ ^u a copp] plate & !n pr9t$ (f 
^u pieces ( gre5 p>*m5t ( a specifi$    
l5g?4 ,aft] ! patt]n is prick$ ^u !     
p>*m5t1 :i* is /it*$ to a piece ( co>se 
l95 fold$ d\ble1 ! patt]n is !n =m$ 9   
outl9e by guid+ two flat ?reads along ! 
edge by ! ?umb ( ! left h&1 &1 9 ord] to

 fix x1 m9ute /it*es are made ) ano!r   
?read & ne$le ?r\gh ! holes ( ! p>*m5t4 
,aft] ! outl9e is f9i%$ x is giv5 to    
ano!r work] to make ! gr\nd1 :i* is     
*iefly ( two k9ds3 bride1 consi/+ (     
unit+ ?reads :i* s]ve to jo9 toge!r !   
fl[]s ( ! lace1 & reseau1 :i* is work$  
backw>d & =w>d f ! foot+ to ! picot4    
,!re 0 also ano!r gr\nd call$           
,arg5tella1 consi/+ ( buttonhole-/it*$  
skeleton hexagons4  ,9 mak+ ! fl[]s (   
,al5con po9t1 ! workwoman1 us+ a ne$le &
 f9e ?read1 makes ! buttonhole-/it* f   
left to "r1 &1 :5 %e has rea*$ ! end ( !
 fl[]1 ?r[s back ! ?read f ! po9t (     
dep>ture & works aga9 f left to "r #be  
along ! ?read4 ,z a result1 ! "w is     
*>act]iz$ by a clos5ess1 firmness &     
ev5ness n equal$ 9 any o!r po9t lace4   
,:5 ! "w is complet$ ! ?reads :i* b9d   
lace1 l95 & p>*m5t toge!r are c>efully  
cut1 & ! difficult task ( unit+ ! pieces
 toge!r rema9s to be done4 ,?is is      
accompli%$ by means ( :at is call$ !    
assemblage /it*1 in/ead ( ! po9t de     

raccroc1 :]e ! pieces are unit$ by a    
fre% r[ ( /it*es4  ,ano!r way ( unit+ ! 
pieces1 :i* is us$ at ,al5con1 is by a  
seam :i* foll[s z f> z possible !       
outl9es ( ! patt]n s z to be invisible4 
,a /eel in/rum5t1 call$ a picot1 is !n  
pass$ into ea* fl[] s z to give x a m   
f9i%$ appe>ance4  ,al5con po9t is ( a   
durability :i* no o!r lace c rival4 ,a  
peculi>ity 9 its manufacture is1 t x is 
! only lace 9 :i* horsehair is ins]t$   
along ! edge to give increas$ /r5g? to !
 cordonnet1 a practice orig9at+ 9 !     
necessity ( mak+ ! po9t /& up :5 ! tall 
headdresses =m]ly worn by wom5 7 expos$ 
to ! w9d4  ,=m]ly ,al5con po9t1 not)/&+ 
its beauty ( con/ruction1 c\ld n vie )  
,brussels lace z reg>ds ! excell5ce (   
floral design1 b ?is inf]iority has n[  
be5 remov$ by ! production ( exquisite  
copies ( natural fl[]s1 m+l$ ) grasses &
 f]ns4 ,al5con po9t is n[ made n only at
 ! seat ( its orig9al manufacture1 b at 
,bayeux1 at ,burano1 ne> ,v5ice1 & at   
,brussels4  ,bayeux c boa/ ( "o ( ! f9e/

 examples ( ?is lace ev] made4 ,x 0     
exhibit$ 9 #ahfg1 & consi/$ ( a dress ( 
two fl\nces1 9 :i* ! patt]n1 fl[]s &    
foliage 7 mo/ h>moni\sly wr\ght &       
reliev$ by %ad$ t9ts1 :i* give to ! lace
 ! relief ( a picture4 ,! price ( !     
dress 0 #ag1jjj1 & x took =ty wom5 sev5 
ye>s to f9i% x4  ,! city ( ,al5con _h on
 exhibition at ,p>is1 9 #ahii1 a piece (
 #bf lace ( exquisite description1 t _h 
tak5 #af1ejj work+ days to complete4    
,,allov]4--,lace ( any k9d :i* is       
eighte5 in*es or m 9 wid?1 & us$ =      
yokes1 fl\nc+s & entire co/umes4        
,,antique4--,a pill[ lace1 h&-made f    
heavy l95 ?read1 & *>act]iz$ by an      
exce$+ly op51 co>se1 squ>e me%4 ,x is   
ma9ly us$ = curta9s1 b$ sets & drap]ies4
  ,,antw]p4--,a pill[ lace made at      
,antw]p1 resembl+ e>ly ,al5con1 & ^:    
*ief *>act]i/ic is ! repres5tation ( a  
pot or vase ( fl[]s ) :i* x is always   
decorat$4 ,! pot or vase v>ies mu* 9    
size & details4 ,x is usually gr\nd$ ) a
 co>se ,fond ,*amp4  ,,application4--,a 

lace made by sew+ fl[]s or sprigs1 :i*  
may be ei!r ne$le-po9t or bobb9-made1 ^u
 a bobb9-lace gr\nd4 ,"o v>iety (       
,brussels lace af=ds ! be/ example (    
,application4  ,,applique4--,! same z   
,application lace4  ,,arg5tan4--,a      
ne$le-po9t lace1 usually consid]$       
indi/+ui%able f ,al5con1 b :i* is       
diff]5t 9 "s respects1 its m>k$         
peculi>ity be+ t ! reseau gr\nd is n    
made ( s+le ?reads only1 b ! sides ( ea*
 me% are work$ ov] ) ! buttonhole /it*4 
,arg5tan is (t5 di/+ui%$ f ,al5con lace 
by a l>g] & m /rik+ patt]n1 & 9 "s      
in/ances x is especially kn[n by its    
hexagonally arrang$ brides4 ,x is call$ 
aft] ,arg5tan1 a t[n ne> ,al5con1 & !   
lace 0 made !re "u ! same direction4    
,,arras4--,a :ite pill[ lace1 s call$ f 
,arras1 9 ,france1 ! city ( its orig9al 
manufacture4 ,x is simple & almo/ uni=m 
9 design1 v /rong & firm to ! t\*1 &    
comp>atively *eap 9 price4 ,x is made on
 a lisle gr\nd4 ,! old] & f9] patt]ns ( 
,arras lace rea*$ _! climax ( excell5ce 

dur+ ! fir/ ,empire1 betwe5 #ahjd &     
#ahab1 b s9ce !n !y h gone out ( fa%ion4
 #bg  ,illu/ration3 ,real ,du*esse4     
,illu/ration3 ,real ,iri% ,cro*et4  #bh 
,,aurillac4--,a pill[ or bobb9 lace1    
made at ,aurillac1 9 ,france4 ,9 ! e>ly 
p]iod ( its manufacture x 0 a close-wov5
 fabric1 resembl+ ! guipure ( ,g5oa &   
,fl&]s1 b lat] x resembl$ ,engli% po9t4 
,! laces ( ,aurillac end$ ) !           
,revolution4  ,,auv]gne4--,a pill[ lace 
made at ! ,fr5* city ( ,auv]gne & !     
surr\nd+ di/rict4  ,,ave ,,m>ia4--,a    
n>r[ lace us$ = edg+4 7,see ,dieppe     
lace47  ,,baby4--,a n>r[ lace us$ =     
edg+1 & made pr9cipally 9 ! ,engli%     
c\nties ( ,b$=d%ire1 ,buck+ham%ire &    
,nor?ampton%ire4 ,^! laces are ord9>ily 
( simple design & specially employ$ 9   
adorn+ infants' caps4 ,?\gh ?is fa%ion  
w5t out 9 ,great ,brita91 ! ladies (    
,am]ica held to ! trimm$ infants' caps  
until ! break+ out ( ! ,civil ,w>1 & up 
to t date l>ge quantities ( ?is lace 7  
export$ to ,am]ica4  ,,basket4--,a lace 

s wov5 or plait$ z to resemble          
basket-"w4 ,x is m5tion$ 9 inv5tories ( 
#aehj4  ,,bayeux4--,!re are two         
descriptions ( lace kn[n by ?is "n3 7a7 
,a mod]n pill[ lace1 made at ,bayeux1 9 
,norm&y1 p>ticul>ly ! v>iety made 9     
imitation ( ,rose po9t2 7b7 ,a black    
silk lace1 popul> because made 9        
unusually l>ge pieces1 z = %awls1 fi*us1
 etc4  ,,bisette4--,a n>r[1 co>se-?read 
pill[ lace ( ?ree qualities1 =m]ly made 
9 ! suburbs ( ,p>is by ! peasant wom51  
pr9cipally = _! own use4 ,! "n is n[ us$
 to signify n>r[ bord]+ lace ( small    
value4  ,,bobb94--,lace made on a pill[1
 /uff$ s z to =m a cu%ion1 )\t ! use ( a
 ne$le4 ,a /iff piece ( p>*m5t is fix$  
on ! pill[1 & aft] holes are prick$     
?r\gh ! p>*m5t s z to =m ! patt]n small 
p9s are /uck ?r\gh ^! holes into !      
pill[4 ,! ?reads ) :i* ! lace is =m$ are
 w\nd ^u bobb9s--small1 r\nd pieces (   
wood ab\t ! size ( a p5cil1 hav+ r\nd _!
 upp] ends a deep groove1 s =m$ z to    
r$uce ! bobb9 to a ?9 neck1 on :i* !    

?read is w\nd1 a sep>ate bobb9 be+ us$ =
 ea* ?read4 ,! gr\nd ( ! lace is =m$ by 
! twi/+ & cross+ ( ^! ?reads4 ,! patt]n 
or figure1 te*nically call$ gimp1 is    
made by int]weav+ a ?read mu* ?ick] ?an 
t =m+ ! gr\ndwork1 accord+ to ! design  
prick$ out on ! p>*m5t4 ,?is mann] ( us+
 ! pill[ 9 lacemak+ has rema9$          
practically ! same dur+ m ?an ?ree      
c5turies4 #bi  ,illu/ration3 ,real ,iri%
 ,applique4  ,illu/ration3 ,imitation   
,po9t de ,v5ise4  #cj  ,,blonde4--,a    
lace s-call$ because1 be+ made f raw    
silk1 x 0 fair1 n :ite 9 color4 ,blonde 
lace has a reseau ( ! ,lille type1 made 
( f9e twi/$ silk1 ! toile be+ work$     
entirely ) a broad1 flat /r&1 produc+ a 
v attractive gli/5+ effect4 ,x 0 made at
 ,*antilly1 9 ,france4 ,at ! ,revolution
 ! dem& = ?is fabric ceas$1 z lacemak]s 
7 commonly look$ ^u z royal proteges4   
,dur+ ! ,fir/ ,empire1 h[ev]1 blonde    
became fa%ionable aga91 & s9ce t "t !   
popul>ity ( black silk blonde = ,spani% 
mantillas alone has kept ! trade 9 a    

fl\ri%+ condition4 ,! manufacture is n  
conf9$ to any "o t[n1 b is c>ri$ on     
?r\gh\t ! prov9ce ( ,calvados1 9        
,norm&y1 & is also made 9 ,spa94        
,,bobb9et4--,a v>iety ( ,application    
lace1 9 :i* ! patt]n is appli$ ^u a     
gr\nd ( bobb9et or tulle4  ,,bone       
,,po9t4--,a lace )\t a regul> me% gr\nd4
  ,,bord]4--,lace made 9 long1 n>r[     
pieces1 ) a foot+ on "o side1 ! o!r edge
 be+ ord9>ily ,van ,dyk$ or purl$4 ,dur+
 ! l>g] "p ( ! sev5te5? c5tury a con/ant
 supply ( ?is lace 0 made at ,g5oa4 ,x 0
 commonly call$ ,coll> lace1 f ! use to 
:i* x 0 put4 ,9 ! pictures ( ,rub5s &   
,van ,dyke x is frequ5tly repres5t$ z   
trimm+ ! broad fall+ l95 coll>s1 bo? (  
m5 & eld]ly wom54 ,x c be di/+ui%$ f    
,flemi% lace1 also employ$ 9 ! same way1
 by its great] boldness ( design4 #ca   
,y\ng] wom5 also made use ( x z trimm+ =
 ! %\ld]s ( _! decollete dresses1 & also
 = sleeves1 aprons1 etc4                
,,bride4--,lace ^: gr\nd is :olly       
compos$ ( brides or b>s1 )\t a reseau or

 net4  ,,brussels4--,a celebrat$ lace1  
made at & ne> ,brussels1 9 ,belgium2 m  
p>ticul>ly1 a f9e v>iety ( ! lace made  
!re ^: patt]n1 z comp>$ ) ,al5con1 has  
less relief1 & ^: f9e net gr\nd is )\t  
picots1 ! knots or ?orns :i* (t5        
decorate brides1 & also ! edge ( !      
patt]n4 ,brussels lace1 ^: hi/ory is "o 
( ! mo/ int]e/+ 9 ! progress ( ?is      
indu/ry1 is n[ (t5 reg>d$ z an          
application lace1 by reason ( ! fact t !
 lacework]s ( t city1 aft] ma*9e-made   
net _h be5 p]fect$ by an ,engli%        
inv5tion 9 #ahaj1 adopt$ ! plan (       
applique+ _! pill[-made patt]ns on t    
mat]ial4 ,lace s appliqu$ c be recogniz$
 z di/9ct f t made ) ! vrai reseau1 or  
true network gr\nd1 by ! fact t ! net   
gr\nd1 ?\gh sometimes remov$1 is (t5 se5
 to pass beh9d ! lace patt]n1 & also by 
! "* ( ! network4 ,ma*9e-made net is    
compos$ ( diamond-%ap$ me%es1 & is made 
) two ?reads only1 tightly twi/$ &      
cross$1 n plait$1 at _! junction1 & is q
 unlike ! ,brussels pill[ reseau4 ,o!r  

peculi>ities by :i* ,brussels lace may  
be recogniz$ are3 7a7 ,x is n made 9 "o 
piece on ! pill[1 b ! patt]n is fir/    
made by itself1 & ! reseau gr\nd is     
work$ 9 ar\nd x aft]w>d4 7b7 ,! reseau  
gr\nd1 :5 magnifi$ "u a glass1 has a me%
 ( hexagonal =m1 ( :i* two sides are    
made ( f\r ?reads plait$ f\r times1 &   
f\r sides ( two ?reads twi/$ twice4 7c7 
,brussels pill[ lace has two sorts (    
toile1 or sub/ance ( ! patt]n z contra/$
 ) ! gr\ndwork2 "o1 ! usual wov5        
texture1 resembl+ t ( a piece ( cambric2
 ! o!r1 a m op5 arrangem5t ( op5 ?reads1
 hav+ v mu* ! appe>ance ( #cb ! ,fond   
,*amp reseau4 ,x rema9s to be said1 9   
spite ( ! fact t ! above-m5tion$        
*>act]i/ics may always be di/+ui%$1 t ! 
,brussels pill[ lace ( ! pres5t day     
diff]s mat]ially f ! e>li] =ms1 hav+    
gone ?r\gh _m *anges & /yle 9 patt]n &  
make4 ,among ^! are ,po9t d',anglet]re1 
call$ su* = mi/ak5 reasons only1 z x is 
n po9t lace nor made 9 ,engl&2 &        
,du*esse1 a "n ( comp>atively rec5t     

date1 ?\gh ! /yle itself is ( e>li]     
orig91 & 0 call$ ,guipure facon         
,anglet]re4 ,z reg>ds ,brussels         
ne$le-po9t1 ! e>lie/ made closely       
resembles t ( ,al5con1 ?\gh n q s close 
& firm4 ,!re 7 also o!r diff]5ces1 bo? !
 cordonnet & ! reseau be+ unlike ^? (   
,al5con4 ,f ! beg9n+ ( ! n9ete5? c5tury 
,brussels ne$le-po9t und]w5t *anges     
analog\s to ^? ( pill[ lace2 x became   
,po9t ,applique1 9 :i* ! ne$le-lace     
patt]n1 in/ead ( hav+ a true net gr\nd1 
0 appliqu$ on ! ma*9e-made net4 ,b 9    
rec5t ye>s x has be5 not$ t a return to 
! "* ( ! e>li] & m beautiful ,brussels  
ne$le-po9t is be+ s\ght1 ! *ief evid5ce 
( x be+ ! exquisite ,po9t ,gaze1 made   
entirely ) ! ne$le & gr\nd$ ) its own   
reseau4  ,,buck+ham4--,a lace orig9ally 
made 9 ! c\nty ( ,buck+ham1 ,engl&1 & ( 
two k9ds3 7a7 ,buck+ham trolley lace1 ^:
 patt]n is outl9$ ) a ?ick] ?read1 or a 
flat1 n>r[ bord]1 made up ( sev]al su*  
?reads4 ,! gr\nd is usually a d\ble     
gr\nd1 %[+ hexagonal & triangul> me%es2 

7b7 ,a lace ) a po9t gr\nd1 ) ! patt]n  
outl9$ ) ?ick] ?reads1 ^! ?reads be+    
weight$ by bobb9s l>g] & heavi] ?an !   
re/4 ,9 g5]al "* & design ^! laces      
/rongly resemble ^? manufactur$ at      
,lille4  ,,cadiz4--,a v>iety (          
ne$le-po9t ,brussels lace4 #cc          
,illu/ration3 ,imitation ,m>quise4      
,illu/ration3 ,real ,po9t d',anglet]re4 
#cd  ,,c>nival4--,a v>iety ( reticella  
lace made 9 ,italy1 ,spa9 & ,france dur+
 ! sixte5? c5tury4                      
,,c>tisane4--,guipure or passem5t1 made 
) c>tisane1 :i* is vellum or p>*m5t 9 ?9
 /rips or small rolls1 cov]$ ) silk1    
gold ?read or simil> mat]ial4           
,,*a94--,a lace ( ! sev5te5? c5tury1    
consi/+ ( a braid or passem5t s work$ z 
to resemble *a9 l9ks4 ,x 0 made ( color$
 silk1 & also ( gold & silv] ?read4     
,,*antilly4--,"o ( ! blonde laces1 ( !  
sort recognizable by _! ,al5con reseau  
gr\nd & ! fl[]s 9 light or op5work      
in/ead ( solid4 ,x is made bo? 9 :ite & 
black silk4 ,black ,*antilly lace has   

always be5 made ( silk1 b a gr5ad9e1 n a
 lu/r\s silk4 ,! patt]n is outl9$ ) a   
cordonnet ( a flat1 untwi/$ silk /r&4   
,dur+ ! sev5te5? c5tury ! ,du*esse (    
,longueville e/abli%$ ! manufacture (   
silk lace at ,*antilly & its            
neighborhood1 & z ,p>is 0 ne> & ! dem& (
 royalty = ?is lace increas$ x became v 
popul>4 ,at ! "t ( ! ,revolution !      
prosp]ity ( ! indu/ry 0 ru9$1 & _m ( !  
lacemak]s 7 s5t to ! guillot9e4 ,dur+ ! 
asc5dancy ( ! fir/ ,napoleon1 !         
manufacture ( ,*antilly aga9 became     
fl\ri%+4 ,s9ce !n ! indu/ry has be5     
driv5 away f t t[n on acc\nt ( ! high]  
labor co/s result+ f ! ne>ness (        
,*antilly to ,p>is1 & ! lacemak]s1      
unable to meet ?is increas$ co/1 retir$ 
to ,gisors1 :]e half a c5tury ago !re 7 
betwe5 #h1jjj & #aj1jjj lacemak]s4 ,!   
supremacy ( lacemak+ =m]ly enjoy$ by    
,*antilly has n[ be5 transf]r$ to       
,calvados1 ,ca51 ,bayeux & ,grammont4 ,!
 widely-kn[n ,*antilly %awls are made at
 ,bayeux1 & also at ,grammont4          

,,*5ille4--,a ,fr5* lace1 made 9 !      
eighte5? c5tury1 s call$ because !      
patt]ns 7 outl9$ ) f9e :ite *5ille4 ,!  
gr\nd #ce 0 made ( silk 9 honeycomb     
reseau1 & ! patt]ns 7 geometrical &     
fill$ ) ?ick /it*es4  ,,cluny4--,a k9d (
 net lace ) a squ>e net backgr\nd 9 :i* 
! /it* is d>n$4 ,x is s call$ f ! fam\s 
museum ( antiquities 9 ! ,hotel ,cluny1 
at ,p>is1 & also because ! lace 0       
suppos$ to h a m$ieval appe>ance4 ,!    
patt]ns us$ are g5]ally ( an antique &  
qua9t description1 mo/ly ( birds1       
animals & fl[]s1 & 9 ! exi/+ manufacture
 ! old traditions are fairly well       
pres]v$4 ,sometimes a glaz$ ?read is    
introduc$ 9 ! patt]n z an outl9e4 ,cluny
 is a plait$ lace1 some:at simil> to !  
,g5oese & ,maltese laces1 & is made 9   
silk1 l95 or cotton4  ,,cordov]4--,a k9d
 ( fill+ us$ 9 ! patt]n ( anci5t & mod]n
 po9t lace4  ,,cork4--,a "n =m]ly us$ = 
,iri% lace 9 g5]al1 :5 ! manufacture (  
,iri% lace 0 pr9cipally conf9$ to !     
neighborhood ( ,cork4  ,,craponne4--,a  

k9d ( /\t ?read guipure lace1 ( *eap    
price & inf]ior make1 us$ = furniture4  
,,cretan4--,a "n giv5 to an old lace1   
ord9>ily made ( color$ mat]ial1 :e!r    
silk or l951 & sometimes embroid]$ ) !  
ne$le aft] ! lace 0 complete4           
,,crewel4--,a k9d ( edg+ made ( crewel  
or wor/$ ?read1 int5d$ z a bord] or b9d+
 = g>m5ts4  ,,cro*et4--,lace :i* is made
 ) a cro*et hook1 or ^: patt]n is s made
 & !n appliqu$ on a bobb9 or ma*9e-made 
net4 ,x is simil> to ne$le-po9t lace1   
al?\gh n equal 9 f95ess to ! be/        
examples ( ! latt]4  ,,cr[n4--,a lace ^:
 patt]n 0 work$ on a succession ( cr[ns1
 sometimes int]mix$ ) acorns & roses4 ,x
 0 made fir/ 9 ! reign ( ,que5          
,elizabe?4 ,a relic ( ?is lace may /ill 
be f\nd #cf 9 ! faux galon1 sold = !    
decoration ( fancy dresses & !atrical   
purposes4  ,,dalec>lian4--,lace made =  
_! own use by ! peasants ( ,dalec>lia1 a
 prov9ce ( ,sw$54 ,its patt]ns are      
anci5t & traditional4 ,x is a co>se     
guipure lace1 made ( unblea*$ ?read4    

,,damasc5e4--,an imitation ( ,honiton   
lace1 made by jo9+ lace sprigs & lace   
braid ) cord$ b>s4 ,x diff]s f mod]n    
po9t lace 9 t x has real ,honiton       
sprigs1 & is )\t ne$lework fill+s4      
,,d>n$ ,,lace4--,a g5]al "n = lace ^u a 
net gr\nd1 ^u :i* ! patt]n is appliqu$ 9
 ne$lework4 ,! diff]5t laces ( ?is k9d  
are describ$ "u ,filet ,brode1 ,guipure 
d',art & ,spid]work4                    
,,devon%ire4--,lace made 9 ,devon%ire1  
,engl&1 & m frequ5tly designat$ z       
,honiton4 7,see ,honiton47 ,=m]ly       
practically ! :ole female population (  
,devon%ire 7 employ$ 9 lacemak+1 & dur+ 
! sixte5? & sev5te5? c5turies ,belgian1 
,fr5* & ,spani% laces 7 imitat$ 9 t     
c\ntry mo/ successfully1 z 7 also       
,v5etian & ,spani% ne$le-po9t1 ,maltese1
 ,greek & ,g5oese laces4 ,dur+ ! la/    
c5tury ?is v>iety 9 lacemak+ has di$ out
 9 ,devon%ire1 & n[ only ,honiton is    
made4  ,,diamond4--,a lace made ) a /it*
 ei!r work$ z op5 or close diamonds1 &  
us$ 9 mod]n po9t & 9 anci5t ne$le-po9ts4

  ,,dieppe4--,a f9e po9t lace made at   
,dieppe1 9 ,france1 resembl+            
,val5ci5nes1 & made ) ?ree ?reads in/ead
 ( f\r4 ,!re 7 sev]al k9ds ( lace made  
at ,dieppe 9 ! sev5te5? & eighte5?      
c5turies1 includ+ ,brussels1 ,me*l91    
,po9t de ,p>is & ,val5ci5nes1 b ! true  
,dieppe po9t 0 ev5tually re/rict$ to two
 k9ds1 ! n>r[ be+ call$ ! ,ave ,m>ia &  
,p\ss91 ! wid] & d\ble gr\nd$1 !        
,d5telle a la ,vi]ge4 ,dieppe & ,havre 7
 =m]ly ! two great lace c5t]s ( ,norm&y1
 manufactur+ 9 ^? cities hav+ ant$at$ t 
at ,al5con1 b ! prosp]ity ( ! lace      
indu/ry 9 bo? ^! cities 0 ne>ly de/roy$ 
at ! ,revolution1 & ?\gh = a "t enc\rag$
 "u ! re/or$ ,b\rbons1 & patroniz$ by   
,napoleon ,,iii1 ma*9e-made laces h     
practically driv5 ! old ,dieppe po9t out
 ( ! m>ket4 #cg  ,illu/ration3 ,real    
,tor*on4  ,illu/ration3 ,imitation      
,val5ci5nes4  #ch  ,,dresd5 ,,po9t4--,a 
f9e drawn lace1 embroid]$ ) ! ne$le &   
made 9 ,dresd5 dur+ ! latt] "p ( !      
sev5te5? & ! :ole ( ! eighte5? c5tury4  

,x 0 an imitation ( an ,italian po9t    
lace1 9 :i* a piece ( l95 0 conv]t$ into
 lace by "s ( its ?reads be+ drawn away1
 "s reta9$ to =m a patt]n1 & o!rs work$ 
toge!r to =m squ>e me%es4 ,! manufacture
 ( ,dresd5 po9t decl9$1 & n[ laces ( _m 
k9ds are made !re1 notably an imitation 
( old ,brussels4  ,,du*esse4--,a f9e    
pill[ lace1 a v>iety orig9ally made 9   
,belgium resembl+ ,honiton guipure lace 
9 design & workman%ip1 b work$ ) a f9]  
?read & conta9+ a great] am\nt ( rais$  
or relief "w4 ,! leaves1 fl[]s & sprays 
=m$ are l>g] & ( bold] design4 ,! /it*es
 & mann] ( work+ 9 ,honiton & ,du*esse  
are alike4  ,,dunkirk4--,a pill[ lace   
made ) a flat ?read1 & ^: manufacture 0 
c>ri$ on 9 ! di/ricts ar\nd ,dunkirk1 a 
,fr5* seaport1 9 ! sev5te5? c5tury4 ,!  
be/ kn[n k9d 0 an imitation ( ,me*l9    
lace4  ,,dut*4--,a co>se1 /rong lace1   
made ) a ?ick gr\nd1 & ( pla9 & heavy   
design4 ,x is a k9d ( *eap ,val5ci5nes4 
,dut* lace is inf]ior 9 design &        
workman%ip to ^? ( ,france & ,belgium4  

,,engli% ,,po9t4--7a7 ,a f9e pill[ lace 
made 9 ! eighte5? c5tury1 g5]ally       
consid]$ to be ( ,flemi% orig9 &        
manufacture1 #ci & mi/ak5ly call$ ,po9t 
d',anglet]re1 z x 0 nei!r po9t lace nor 
made 9 ,engl&4 ,"s writ]s1 h[ev]1 ass]t 
its ,engli% orig94 ,ow+ to ! protection 
=m]ly giv5 by law to ,engli% laces1 l>ge
 quantities ( ,belgium laces are believ$
 to h be5 smuggl$ into ,engl& "u ! "n ( 
,po9t d',anglet]re1 s z to evade !      
cu/oms duties4 7b7 ,at ! pres5t day !   
f9e/ quality ( ,brussels lace1 9 :i*    
ne$le-po9t sprigs are appli$ to         
,brussels bobb9-gr\nd4 7,see            
,application lace1 also ,po9t           
d',anglet]re47  ,,escurial4--,a mod]n   
silk lace1 made 9 imitation ( ,rose     
po9t4 ,! patt]ns are outl9$ ) a lu/r\s  
?read or cord4  ,,fayal4--,a delicately 
made & co/ly lace1 h&-made by ! wom5 ( !
 ,isl& ( ,fayal1 "o ( ! ,azores1 (f !   
we/]n ,spani% coa/4 ,! ?read us$ 9 mak+ 
?is lace is spun f ! fib] ( ! leaves ( !
 aloe1 a plant resembl+ some:at ! c5tury

 plant4 ,great skill is necess>y 9 !    
manufacture1 :i* is re/rict$ to a       
comp>atively few wom5 ( ! isl&1 :o h be5
 tra9$ to ?is "w f *ildhood4 ,! lace is 
m>ket$ 9 ,france1 *iefly 9 ,p>is1 at a v
 high price1 & x is v difficult =       
outside pur*as]s to buy x at any co/4 ,!
 patt]ns are extremely elegant & orig9al
 9 design4 ,not)/&+ ! delicacy ( ?is    
fabric1 x is rem>kably durable4         
,,f$ora4--,see ,po9t ,applique4  ,,false
 ,,val5ci5nes4--7a7 ,lace resembl+      
,val5ci5nes 9 surface & 9 patt]n1 b )\t 
! true ,val5ci5nes net gr\nd1 7b7 ,a t]m
 = ,val5ci5nes lace made 9 ,belgium4    
,,flat ,,po9t4--,lace made )\t any      
rais$-"w or "w 9 relief f rais$ po9ts4  
,,flemi% ,,po9t4--,a ne$le-po9t guipure 
lace made 9 ,fl&]s4  ,,foot+4--,a n>r[  
lace :i* is us$ to keep ! /it*es ( ! #dj
 gr\nd firm & to sew ! lace to ! g>m5t  
^u :i* x is to be worn4 ,sometimes !    
foot+ is work$ ) ! re/ ( ! design4 ,x is
 us$ also 9 mak+ lace h&k]*iefs & =     
quill+ effects4  ,,g5oa4--,a "n         

orig9ally giv5 to ! gold & silv] laces =
 :i* ,g5oa 0 fam$ 9 ! sixte5? & sev5te5?
 c5turies1 b n[ appli$ to lace made f ! 
fib] ( ! aloe plant1 & also to ,macrame 
lace4  ,,gold4--,lace made ( w>p ?reads 
or cords ( silk1 or silk & cotton       
comb9$1 ) ?9 gold or silv] gilt b&s     
pass+ ar\nd x4 ,x 0 anci5tly made ( gold
 or silv] gilt wire4 ,x is n[ us$ *iefly
 to decorate uni=ms1 liv]ies & "s *ur*  
co/umes1 & occasionally = mill9]y4 ,!   
metal is drawn ?r\gh a wire1 &1 aft] be+
 flatt5$ betwe5 /eel roll]s1 sev]al /r&s
 ( ! flatt5$ wire are pass$ ar\nd ! silk
 simultane\sly by means ( a complex     
ma*9e hav+ a :eel & iron bobb9s4 ,!     
hi/ory ( gold lace is int]e/+1 z        
illu/rat+ ! olde/ =m ( ! lacemak]'s art4
 ,f ! days ( ,egypt & ,rome d[n to      
m$ieval ,v5ice1 ,italy & ,spa91 gold &  
silv] gilt wire 7 us$ 9 mak+ ?is k9d (  
lace4 ,! ,jews 9 ,spa9 7 accompli%$     
work]s 9 ?is art1 & 9 ,sw$5 & ,russia   
gold lace 0 ! fir/ lace made4 ,9 ,france
 gold lacemak+ 0 a prosp]\s manufacture 

at ,aurrillac & ,arras1 at :i* latt]    
place x fl\ri%$ up to ! end ( ! eighte5?
 c5tury4 ,gold lace 0 import$ into      
,engl& at an e>ly date1 & ,k+ ,james ,i 
e/abli%$ a monopoly 9 x4 ,its           
importation 0 prohibit$ by ,que5 ,anne1 
on acc\nt ( ! extravagant uses (        
ornam5tation to :i* x 0 put1 & x 0 also 
prohibit$ 9 ! reign ( ,george ,,ii1 to  
correct ! preval5t ta/e = ! =eign       
manufactur$ lace4 ,! attempt 0          
unsuccessful1 = we are told t smuggl+   
greatly increas$4 ,x became a w> to !   
knife betwe5 ! rev5ue (fic] & society at
 l>ge1 all classes comb9$1 t[n ladies ( 
high degree1 ) wait+-maids1 & ! common  
sailor1 to avoid ! obnoxi\s duties &    
*eat ! gov]nm5t4 #da  ,illu/ration3     
,real ,me*l94  ,illu/ration3 ,real ,po9t
 de ,p>is4  #db  ,,grammont4--,grammont 
lace1 s call$ f ! t[n ( ,grammont1 9    
,belgium1 :]e x 0 orig9ally manufactur$1
 is ( two k9ds3 7a7 ,a *eap1 :ite pill[ 
lace4 7b7 ,a black silk lace1 resembl+ !
 ,*antilly blondes4 ,^! laces are made =

 fl\nces & %awls1 & 7 us$ bo? 9 ,am]ica 
& ,europe4 ,z comp>$ ) ,*antilly1 !     
gr\nd is co>s] & ! patt]ns are n s      
cle>-cut & elegant z ! real ,*antilly4  
,,gueuse4--,a ?read pill[ lace made 9   
,france dur+ ! eighte5? c5tury4 ,! gr\nd
 ( ?is lace 0 reseau1 & ! toile 0 work$ 
) a ?ick] ?read ?an ! gr\nd4 ,x 0 =m]ly 
an article ( ext5sive consumption 9     
,france1 b1 aft] ! beg9n+ ( ! n9ete5?   
c5tury1 x 0 little us$1 except by !     
poor] classes4 ,x 0 =m]ly call$ ,begg>s'
 lace4  ,,guipure4--,x 0 orig9ally a k9d
 ( lace or passem5t made ( c>tisane &   
twi/$ silk4 ,! "n 0 aft]w>d appli$ to   
heavy lace made ) ?9 wires :ipp$ ar\nd !
 silk1 & ) cotton ?read4 ,! ^w guipure  
is no long] commonly us$ to d5ote su* "w
 z ?is1 b has become a t]m ( v>iable    
designation1 & x is s ext5sively appli$ 
t x is difficult to give a limit to its 
mean+4 ,x may be us$ to def9e a lace :]e
 ! fl[]s are ei!r jo9$ by brides1 or    
l>ge co>se /it*es1 or lace t has no     
gr\nd4 ,! mod]n ,honiton & ,maltese are 

guipures1 & s is ,v5etian po9t4 ,b z !  
^w has also be5 appli$ to l>ge1 fl[+    
patt]n laces1 work$ ) co>se net gr\nds1 
x is impossible to lay d[n any h>d & fa/
 rule ab\t x4  ,,h5riques4--,a f9e /it* 
or po9t1 us$ bo? 9 e>ly & mod]n         
ne$le-po9t "w4  #dc  ,illu/ration3 ,real
 ,arabian4  ,illu/ration3 ,ma*9e ,iri%  
,cro*et4  #dd ,,hollie ,,po9t4--,a      
ne$le-po9t lace said to h be5 orig9ally 
call$ holy po9t1 on acc\nt ( its uses4  
,x 0 popul> 9 ! middle ages = *ur*      
decoration1 b 0 adapt$ to diff]5t       
purposes 9 ! sev5te5? & eighte5?        
c5turies1 & v>i\s makes ( lace h s9ce   
be5 call$ by ?is "n4  ,,honiton4--,a    
pill[ lace orig9ally made at ,honiton1  
,devon%ire1 ,engl&1 & celebrat$ = !     
beauty ( its figures & sprigs4 ,!       
manufacture is /ill c>ri$ on at t t[n1  
:]e !re is a lace s*ool1 b a simil> lace
 is made 9 ! lead+ ,cont95tal c5t]s ( ! 
indu/ry4  7a7 ,honiton ,application is  
made by work+ ! patt]n p>ts on ! lace   
pill[ & secur+ !m to a net gr\nd1       

sep>ately made4 ,at pres5t x is cu/om>y 
to use ma*9e-made net ^u :i* h&-made    
sprays are sewn4  7b7 ,honiton guipure1 
:i* 9 common acceptation passes z       
,honiton lace1 is di/+ui%$ by its l>ge  
fl[] patt]ns ^u a v op5 gr\nd1 ! sprays 
be+ unit$ by brides or b>s4  ,honiton   
braid is a n>r[1 ma*9e-made fabric1 !   
v>iety 9 mo/ g5]al use be+ compos$ ( a  
s]ies ( oval-%ap$ figures unit$ by n>r[ 
b>s4 ,x is ( diff]5t wid?s1 9 l951      
cotton & silk1 & is mu* us$ 9 !         
manufacture ( h&k]*iefs1 coll>s1 & "s   
v>ieties ( lace4  ,! hi/ory ( ,honiton  
lace is m ?an ord9>ily int]e/+1 p>tly by
 reason ( ! d\bt z to :e!r x really 0 a 
lace ( ,engli% inv5tion1 or br\ght by ! 
,flemi% workm5 to ,engl&4 ,"s writ]s    
ass]t ! =m]1 b ! /rong] probability is t
 ! art 0 br\ght f ,fl&]s by ,prote/ant  
immigrants1 :o fl$ f p]secution4 ,:i*ev]
 !ory is held1 ! developm5t ( ! indu/ry 
at ,honiton1 & its close resemblance to 
o!r lacemak+ processes 9 ,belgium1      
,holl& & ,france1 af=d an excell5t      

illu/ration ( ! int]dep5d5ce ( lacemak]s
 9 all c\ntries ^u ea* #de o!r z reg>ds 
improvem5ts result+ f new ideas4        
,honiton1 if x 0 br\ght f ,fl&]s        
orig9ally1 aft]w>d repaid ! debt by !   
beauty & celebrity ( its designs1 :i*   
s]v$ z examples = ,cont95tal lacemak]s4 
,! v attempt to protect its manufacture 
9 ,engl&1 by impos+ prohibitive duties1 
only increas$ ! desire to receive =eign 
sugge/ions1 & to smuggle =eign laces    
into ,engl&1 :ile ! +5uity ( ,cont95tal 
manufactur]s succe$$ 9 copy+ ! be/      
,honiton designs1 & ev5 9 improv+ ^u !m4
 ,! ,engli% lacemak]s at ,honiton 71    
h[ev]1 at fir/ unsuccessful 9 _!        
attempts to rival ! be/ laces ( !       
,cont95t1 especially ,brussels4 ,al?\gh 
!y _h royal patronage1 & ! :ims & lavi% 
exp5diture ( ! c\rt ( ,*>les ,,ii 7 at  
_! s]vice1 toge!r ) protective duties1 x
 0 n until ! reign ( ,george ,,ii &     
,george ,,iii t ,engli% lace            
sub/antially improv$4 ,?is result$ f    
sub/itut+ ! work+ ( ! true ,brussels net

 gr\nd1 or vrai reseau1 = ! old guipure 
b> gr\nd4 ,! patt]ns 7 also =m$ ( deta*$
 fl[] sprays1 & soon ! ,honiton product 
became almo/ unrival$4 ,?is sup]iority  
cont9u$ until ab\t #ahbj1 :5 ma*9e-made 
net 0 introduc$1 & ! old exquisite net  
gr\nd1 made ( ! f9e/ ,antw]p ?read1 w5t 
out ( fa%ion by reason ( ! comm]cial    
dem& = an inf]ior product4 ,honiton     
guipure is n[ ! *ief =m ( lace made at t
 t[n4 ,z reg>ds composition ( ! patt]ns 
( ,honiton laces1 z well z f9i% &       
delicacy ( execution1 mu* improvem5t has
 be5 manife/$ dur+ ! la/ tw5ty ye>s by  
reason ( bett] s*ools = design1 & !     
rivalry promot$ by int]national         
exhibitions4  ,,imitation4--,ma*9e-made 
lace ( any k9d4 ,x (t5 rivals real lace 
9 f95ess1 b necess>ily its me*anical    
regul>ity ( patt]n detracts some:at f ! 
arti/ic "* ( ! result4 ,con/ant         
improvem5t 9 processes1 h[ev]1 has 9 "s 
laces made ! #df resemblance to !       
h&-made product s close t ev5 exp]ts c  
h>dly recognize ! diff]5ce4 ,if x 7 ask$

 h[ ! imitation lace c be di/+ui%$ f    
ne$le-po9t1 ! answ] is t x is n made )  
loop$ /it*es l ! latt]1 nor has x !     
effect ( plait$ ?reads1 z 9 pill[ lace4 
,aga91 ! toile ( ma*9e-made lace is (t5 
f\nd to be ribb$1 & ?is lace is v       
g5]ally made ( cotton in/ead ( ! l95    
?read ) :i* old ne$le-po9t & pill[ lace 
is made4 ,9 ! inv5tion ( sub/itutes =   
h&-made lace /it*es ,switz]l& has be5 ! 
lead]1 & by #ahfh hundr$s ( ma*9es1     
p]fect$ f ! inv5tion ( a native ( ,/4   
,gall1 7 turn+ out a close imitation ( !
 h&-made "w4 ,! mo/ rec5t triumphs ( ?is
 description are ! imitations ( ,v5etian
 po9t1 9 :i* a ne>] approximation ?an   
ev] be=e has be5 made to ! ne$le-work$  
toile1 & also ( ! bride "w4 ,b1 not)/&+ 
! m>vel\s results atta9$ 9 ma*9e-made   
lace1 !y are ! triumphs ( me*anism :i*  
_c displace ! sup]iority1 & *>m1 &      
r>ity1 ( ! f9e/ h&-made "w4 ,9 ! latt] !
 p]sonal equation1 ! skill & ! lov+1    
workmanlike fidelity ( ! individual     
toil] to 8 task imp>t a quality :i* dead

 me*anism c nei!r create nor sup]s$e4   
,ma*9e-made lace may be pr$om9antly !   
lace ( comm]ce1 b h&-made lace is !     
natural expression & embodim5t ( a      
delicate & difficult art1 & ?us x w ev] 
rema94  ,,ins]tion4--,a k9d ( lace1     
embroid]y or o!r trimm+ us$ to ins]t 9 a
 pla9 fabric = ornam5tal purposes4 ,x is
 made ) ! edges on bo? sides alike1 &   
(t5 a pla9 portion ( ! mat]ial outside !
 "w1 s t x may be sewn on "o side to !  
g>m5t = :i* x is int5d$ & to ! pla9 "p (
 ! lace or bord] on ! o!r4  #dg         
,illu/ration3 ,imitation ,po9t          
d',al5con4  #dh ,,iri%4--,a t]m d5ot+ a 
v>iety ( laces made 9 ,irel&1 ( :i* !   
two mo/ individual & be/-kn[n k9ds are !
 net embroid]ies ( ,lim]ick & ! applique
 & cut cambric "w ( ,c>rick-ma-cross4   
,o!r v>ieties1 :i* are imitations (     
=eign laces1 are ,iri% po9t1 resembl+   
,brussels lace2 black & :ite ,maltese2  
silv]1 black & :ite blondes4 ,! ,lim]ick
 embroid]ies1 = !y _c be /rictly call$  
lace1 are an imitation ( ,indian tamb\r 

"w1 & consi/ ( f9e embroid]y 9          
*a9-/it*es ^u a ,nott+ham net4          
,c>rick-ma-cross1 or ,iri% guipure1 is a
 k9d ( s-call$ ,iri% po9t lace1 made at 
! t[n ( t "n1 b :i* is really no?+ m ?an
 a species ( embroid]y1 f :i* "p ( !    
clo? is cut away1 leav+ a guipure gr\nd4
 ,x is n a v durable lace4 ,! mo/ popul>
 patt]ns are ! rose & ! %amrock4 ,iri%  
cro*et is an imitation ( ! ne$le-po9t   
laces ( ,spa9 & ,v5ice2 t is to say1 x  
resembles ^! laces 9 g5]al effect4 ,!re 
is also a ne$le-po9t lace made ( r co>se
 ?read1 & us$ exclusively 9 ,irel& &    
,engl&4 ,! manufacture ( laces 9 ,irel& 
is c>ri$ on by ! cottag]s1 by ! nuns 9 !
 conv5ts1 & 9 sev]al indu/rial s*ools   
f\nd$ = t purpose4 ,x has only become a 
popul> indu/ry )9 ! la/ tw5ty-five ye>s1
 z ! co/umes ( ! p 9 e>li] times did n  
require lace ornam5tation1 & !re 0 a    
widespread & deep-root$ av]sion to !    
adoption ( ,engli% fa%ions 9 clo?+ s    
long z c]ta9 sumptu>y laws 7 unrepeal$4 
,aft]w>d1 "u slightly m lib]al          

conditions1 ,engli% fa%ions 7 gradually 
adopt$1 & ) !m came ! dem& = a *eap     
,iri% lace1 z ! =eign laces 7 too       
exp5sive4 ,n until #agdc 0 !re any      
(ficial attempt to enc\rage ! indu/ry1 b
 9 t ye> ! ,royal ,dubl9 ,society       
e/abli%$ prizes = excell5ce 9 lacemak+4 
,?is attempt la/$ until #aggd4 ,9 #ahbi 
a s*ool 0 op5$ 9 ,lim]ick = in/ruction 9
 ! n[ celebrat$ lace or embroid]y fir/  
made 9 t t[n2 b 9 ! fam9e ye>s (        
#ahdf-dh m effectual measures 7 tak5 to 
spread a k ( ! art1 & sev]al s*ools #di 
7 op5$ 9 diff]5t p>ts ( ! c\ntry4 ,!    
,iri% h nev] made a lace t c 9 any s5se 
be call$ national1 b great skill has be5
 develop$ 9 ! imitations ( ! =eign      
fabrics1 & ! ,iri% "n has be5 s closely 
associat$ ) "s ( !m t !y are popul>ly   
consid]$ a native ,iri% product4 ,!     
exhibition ( ,iri% laces at ! ,mansion  
,h\se 9 ,london 9 #ahhc add$ mat]ially  
to ! reputation ( ^! fabrics4  ,,iri%   
,,trimm+4--,a pla9-patt]n$1 wov5 lace1  
=m]ly us$ 9 ornam5t+ musl9 und]we>1     

pill[ slips & ! l4  ,,jesuit4--,a mod]n 
ne$le-po9t lace1 made 9 ,irel&1 & s     
call$ on acc\nt ( ! tradition z to !    
introduction ( its manufacture aft] !   
fam9e ( #ahdf4  ,,knott$4--,a t]m appli$
 to ! old ,punto a ,groppo1 ( ,italian  
manufacture orig9ally1 & consi/+ ( a    
fr+e or bord] made ( knott$ ?reads4 ,x  
is commonly call$ ,knott+ 9 all         
,engli%-speak+ c\ntries4 ,! mod]n       
,macrame is made l ! knott$ laces4      
,,lille4--,a lace made at ,lille1 9     
,france1 not$ = its cle> & light s+le   
reseau gr\nd1 :i* is sometimes ornam5t$ 
) po9ts d'esprit4 ,x is a lace ( simple 
design1 consi/+ ( a ?ick run ?read1     
enclos+ clo?-/it* = ?ick p>ts1 & plait+s
 = op5 p>ts4 ,! old ,lille lace is      
always made ) a /iff & =mal patt]n1 ) a 
?ick1 /raight edge1 & ) a squ>e in/ead (
 ! usual r\nd dots work$ ov] ! gr\nd4   
,lille 0 di/+ui%$ z a lacemak+ city z f>
 back z #aehb1 & f t ye> until #ahdh !  
indu/ry 0 successful1 b s9ce ! latt] ye>
 !re has be5 a /eady decl9e1 z m        

remun]ative occupations h gradually     
drawn away ! y\ng] work]s f lacemak+4 ,!
 ,lille patt]n 0 simil> to t ( ! laces  
made at ,arras & ,mirec\rt1 9 ,france1 &
 9 ,b$=d%ire & ,buck+ham%ire1 9 ,engl&1 
b none ( ! latt] c\ld rival ! fam\s s+le
 reseau gr\nd4 #ej  ,,lim]ick4--7,see   
,iri% ,lace47  ,,luxeuil4--,a t]m appli$
 to sev]al v>ieties ( h&-made lace      
produc$ at ,luxeuil1 ,france4 ,!y are   
/\t1 heavy laces1 mo/ly made ) ! use (  
braid1 & are mu* us$ = curta9s &        
drap]ies4  ,,macrame4--,a ^w ( ,arabic  
d]ivation1 signify+ a fr+e = trimm+1    
:e!r cotton1 ?read or silk1 & n[ us$ to 
designate an ornam5tal cotton trimm+1   
sometimes call$ a lace1 made by leav+ a 
long fr+e ( co>se ?read1 & int]weav+ !  
?reads s z to make patt]ns geometrical 9
 =m4 ,x is useful 9 decorat+ light      
uphol/]y4 ,macrame cord is made ( f9e1  
close-twi/$ cotton ?read1 prep>$        
especially = ! manufacture ( ,macrame   
trimm+1 & also = co>se nett+ ( v>i\s    
k9ds4 ,! f\ndation ( all ,macrame lace  

or trimm+ is knots1 made by ty+ %ort    
ends ( ?read ei!r 9 horizontal or       
p]p5dicul> l9es1 & int]weav+ ! knots s z
 to =m a geometrical design1 z above    
m5tion$1 & sometimes rais$1 sometimes   
flat4 ,?is necessitates ! =m+ ( simple  
patt]ns4 ,?is lace is really a revival (
 ! old ,italian knott$ po9ts1 :i* 7 mu* 
us$ ?ree c5turies ago 9 ,spa9 & ,italy =
 ecclesia/ical g>m5ts4 ,x appe>s 9 "s ( 
! pa9t+s ( ! e>ly ma/]s1 notably ,paul  
,v]onese4 ,! art has be5 taught dur+ all
 ! n9ete5? c5tury 9 ! s*ools & conv5ts  
along ! ,rivi]a4 ,x is develop$ 9 great 
p]fection at ,*iav>i1 & also at ,g5oa4  
,specim5s ( elaborate workman%ip 7 9 !  
,p>is ,exhibition ( #ahfg4              
,,mackl94--,ano!r "n = ,me*l9 lace4     
,,mal9e4--,a "n sometimes appli$ to     
,me*l9 lace1 especially to ! v>ieties ^:
 gr\nd is di/+ui%$ by a diamond-%ap$    
me%4  #ea  ,illu/ration3 ,real ,cluny4  
,illu/ration3 ,real ,bruges4  #eb       
,,maltese4--,a heavy b attractive pill[ 
lace1 ^: patt]ns1 ( arabesque or        

geometric design1 are =m$ ( plait+ or   
clo?-/it*1 & are unit$ ) a purl$ b>     
gr\nd4 ,x is made bo? 9 :ite silk &     
?read1 & also 9 black ,b>celona silk4   
,!re is also a cotton ma*9e-made v>iety1
 us$ *iefly 9 trimm+ musl9 und]we>4 ,!  
hi/ory ( ,maltese lace is int]e/+ f !   
fact t ! k9d orig9ally made 9 t isl& by 
! natives1 :i* 0 a co>se v>iety ( ,me*l9
 or ,val5ci5nes1 ( an arabesque patt]n1 
0 9 #ahcc sup]s$$ by ! manufacture ( !  
:ite & black silk guipures n[ s widely  
kn[n z ,maltese lace4 ,?is improvem5t 0 
due to ,lady ,hamilton ,*i*e/]1 :o      
br\ght lacework]s ov] f ,g5oa to tea* _!
 craft 9 ! isl&4 ,"s ( ! patt]ns f t "t 
%[$ ! influ5ce ( ! ,g5oese in/ruction4  
,maltese lace is made n only 9 ,malta1 b
 9 ,auv]gne & ,lepuy 9 ,france2 9       
,buck+ham%ire & ,b$=d%ire1 9 ,engl&1 &  
also 9 ! ,iri% lace s*ools4 ,ceylon &   
,madras lace also resembles ,maltese4   
,=m]ly %awls & veils ( mu* beauty &     
value 7 made ( ?is lace1 b ! manufacture
 is n[ conf9$ *iefly to n>r[ trimm+s4   

,,me*l94--,a pill[ lace orig9ally made  
at ,me*l91 ,belgium1 & ^: special       
*>act]i/ics are ! n>r[1 flat ?read1 b&  
or cord1 :i* outl9es ! patt]n1 & ! net  
gr\nd ( hexagonal me%4 ,sometimes ! me% 
is circul>4 ,! net gr\nd is made ( two  
?reads twi/$ twice on f\r sides & f\r   
?reads plait$ ?ree times on ! two o!r   
sides4 ,9 ?is x diff]s f ,brussels lace1
 ^: plait is long] & ^: me% is l>g]4 ,! 
lace is made 9 "o piece ^u ! pill[1 !   
gr\nd be+ =m$ ) ! patt]n4 ,! v f9e/     
?read is us$1 & a high degree ( skill is
 necess>y1 s t ! result+ fabric is v    
co/ly4 ,x is a filmy1 beautiful & highly
 transp>5t lace1 & pres]ves = a v long  
"t its di/+ui%+ peculi>ity ( a %9y ?read
 or b& surr\nd+ ! outl9es ( ! sprigs &  
dots ( ! design4 ,! e>lie/ ,me*l9       
designs 7 v l ^? ( ,brussels lace1 ?\gh 
n s orig9al & graceful2 b 9 ?is respect 
lat] ,me*l9 laces %[$ m>k$ improvem5t4  
,! fundam5tal diff]5ce betwe5 ! two1    
h[ev]1 0 t ,me*l9 0 work$ 9 "o piece ^u 
! pill[1 :ile ! ,brussels patt]n 0 fir/ 

made by itself1 & ! reseau or net gr\nd 
0 aft]w>d work$ 9 ar\nd x4 ,!           
manufacture ( ,me*l9 has long be5 on !  
decl9e1 ! ,fr5* ,revolution s]i\sly     
injur+ ! indu/ry2 & :5 ! trade 0 reviv$ 
& enc\rag$ "u ,napoleon1 ! exquisite    
patt]ns ( =m] times _h be5 p>tly =gott5 
or 7 too exp5sive = popul> dem&4 ,at !  
"t ( its highe/ popul>ity x 0 call$ !   
,que5 ( ,laces1 %>+ t title ) ! f9e/    
,al5con po9t4 ,me*l9 sometimes _h an    
ornam5tal net gr\nd call$ ,fond du      
,neige1 & also a gr\nd ( six-po9t$ ,fond
 ,*amp1 b ^! k9ds 7 r>e4 ,x has always  
be5 a v great favorite ) ! ,engli%1 &   
appe>s 9 mo/ ( _! family collections (  
laces4 ,!re 0 a f9e collection ( ?is    
lace at ! ,p>is ,exhibition ( #ahfg f   
,turnh\t1 ,belgium1 z well z f o!r lace 
manufactur+ c5t]s4 #ec  ,illu/ration3   
,imitation ,me*l94  ,illu/ration3       
,imitation ,tor*on4  #ed  ,,m$ici4--,a  
"n = a v>iety ( mod]n tor*on lace1 ^:   
di/+ui%+ peculi>ity is ! ins]tion       
effect1 ! lace be+ v l an ord9>y        

ins]tion1 ) ! exception ( hav+ "o edge  
f9i%$ ) scallops4 ,! ,m$ici design is   
also *>act]iz$ by pla91 close-wov5 "w1 !
 close "w alt]nat+ 9 equal am\nt ) !    
op5work1 ! contra/ betwe5 !m height5+ ! 
effect4  ,,melange4--,a heavy1 black    
silk lace1 di/+ui%$ by its m+l+ (       
,spani% patt]ns ) ord9>y ,*antilly      
effects4 ,! edge is usually pla9 &      
/raight1 b is sometimes ornam5t$ ) a f9e
 silk fr+e4  ,,mignonette4--,a light    
pill[ lace1 ) an op5 gr\nd resembl+     
tulle1 made 9 n>r[ /rips4 ,x 0 "o ( !   
e>lie/ ( pill[ laces1 & fl\ri%$ greatly 
dur+ ! sixte5?1 sev5te5? & eighte5?     
c5turies4 ,x 0 made ( ,lille ?read1 & ! 
*ief places ( its manufacture 7 ,arras1 
,lille & ,p>is1 9 ,france1 & 9          
,switz]l&4 #ee  ,,mirec\rt4--,a lace    
made ( deta*$ sprigs ^u a net made at ! 
same "t ) ! patt]n4 ,9 ! sev5te5? c5tury
 x 0 a ,fr5* guipure lace ( m delicate  
texture & v>i$ design ?an o!r guipures4 
,mirec\rt1 9 ! ,dep>tm5t ( ! ,vosges1 & 
its environs1 7 ! c5t] ( ! indu/ry4 ,!  

manufacture 0 begun at an e>ly date1 & =
 c5turies only hemp5 ?read 0 us$1 !     
result be+ a co>se guipure2 b dur+ !    
e>ly "p ( ! sev5te5? c5tury a f9] lace (
 m delicate patt]n 0 produc$1 & x began 
to be export$ 9 consid]able quantities4 
,be=e ! union ( ,lorra9e ) ,france1 9   
#agff1 !re 0 less ?an #hjj lacework]s 9 
,mirec\rt1 b 9 #ahfi ! numb] _h increas$
 to #be1jjj4 ,dur+ ! la/ c5tury ! ,fr5* 
dem& = ?is lace increas$ f> beyond !    
=eign dem&1 & x became desirable to     
produce a great] v>iety ( patt]n4 ,?is 0
 done ) great success by imitat+ ! be/  
designs4 ,ano!r rec5t improvem5t at     
,mirec\rt is ! mak+ ( application fl[]s1
 & ?\gh ^! are n yet z f9i%$ z !        
,brussels sprigs1 !y bid fair to supply 
! ,fr5* m>ket1 s z to make x to t ext5t 
indep5d5t ( ,belgium4 ,! lace made at   
,mirec\rt is mo/ly :ite4 ,! "w is simil>
 9 process & equal 9 quality to t (     
,lille & ,arras4  ,,n&uti4--,a lace made
 by ! natives ( ,p>aguay1 ,ecuador &    
,p]u1 ,s\? ,am]ica1 f ! s(t1 brilliant  

fib] ( ! agave plant4 ,x is made 9 silk 
or ?read by a ne$le on a c>dbo>d patt]n4
 ,9 ,p]u & ,ecuador x is also ne$le-made
 9 ! =m ( small squ>es & unit$ toge!r4  
,,ne$le-,,po9t4--,real lace ( any k9d   
work$ ) a ne$le1 on a p>*m5t patt]n1 & n
 ) bobb9s or on a pill[4 ,! di/9ction   
betwe5 ne$le-po9t & bobb9-made1 or pill[
 lace1 is also illu/rat$ by ! solid "p (
 ! patt]n1 & also ! gr\nd ( ! =m]4 ,9   
ne$le-po9t ! solid p>ts are inv>iably   
made ( r[s ( #ef buttonhole /it*es1     
sometimes closely work$ & sometimes )   
small op5 spaces left 9 ! patt]ns4 ,!   
brides 9 ne$le-po9t consi/ ( "o or two  
?reads fa/5$ across f "o "p ( ! patt]n  
to ano!r1 & !n closely buttonhol$ ov]2 x
 w be f\nd1 also1 t true ne$le-po9t is  
made ) only "o k9d ( /it*1 ! loop$ or   
buttonhole /it* already m5tion$1 & t ?is
 is con/ant amid all v>ieties ( design 9
 ?is k9d ( lace4 ,pill[ lace1 on !      
contr>y1 has a toile made ( ?reads      
cross+ ea* o!r m or less at "r angles2  
its brides consi/ ( twi/$ or plait$     

?reads1 & ! picots are simple loops1    
:ile ! network gr\nd ( pill[ lace is (  
f> great] v>iety ?an t ( ne$le-po9t4 ,9 
all k9ds ( pill[ lace ! net gr\ndwork is
 made by twi/+ & plait+ ! ?reads1       
sometimes 9 twos & sometimes 9 f\rs4    
,briefly speak+1 ! fundam5tal diff]5ce  
betwe5 ne$le-po9t & pill[ lace is t !   
=m] is made ) loop$ /it*es ?r\gh\t1 :ile
 ! latt] is made ) twi/$ or plait$      
?reads1 :i* la/ is really weav+1 ?\gh x 
is done ) bobb9s & ! h& in/ead ( ) !    
loom4  ,,ori5tal4--,a lace made on !    
embroid]+ ma*9e1 :i* by comb9$ ne$le &  
%uttle action produces ei!r simple or   
complex designs ^u nett+4 ,! action ( ! 
,s*iffli ma*9e some:at resembles t ( a  
sew+-ma*9e1 & ! product is m prop]ly    
call$ embroid]y ?an lace4 ,! op5work    
effects are produc$ ei!r by ! action (  
*emicals ^u ! f\ndation mat]ial1 or by !
 use ( ! scissors4 ,! ?readwork results 
f ! comb9$ action ( ! %uttle & ne$les4  
,/4 ,gall1 ,switz]l&1 & ,plau51 ,saxony1
 are ! *ief manufactur+ c5t]s = ^!      

laces1 :i* include trimm+ & bord] laces1
 curta9s1 b$ sets1 %ams1 & ! l4 ,9 !    
broad hi/orical s5se1 ,ori5tal laces &  
embroid]ies ref] to ! products ( ! ,ea/1
 especially to ! ,*9ese1 ,indian1       
,japanese1 ,p]sian & ,turki%4 ,all ^! 7 
rem>kable = ! labor exp5d$ ^u !m1 _!    
great co/1 & ! orig9ality & boldness (  
idea & color+ :i* m>k$ _! design4 #eg   
,illu/ration3 ,real ,r5aissance4        
,illu/ration3 ,ma*9e ,val5ci5nes4  #eh  
,,oyah4--,a guipure lace or op5work     
embroid]y1 made by means ( a hook 9 a   
fa%ion simil> to cro*et4 ,! patt]n is   
(t5 elaborate1 & 9 silks ( _m colors1   
repres5t+ fl[]s1 foliage1 etc4 ,x is    
sometimes 9 relief4  ,,p>*m5t4--,lace 9 
^: manufacture p>*m5t has be5 us$1 :e!r 
9 ! patt]n = ! work]'s guidance1 or =   
/iff5+ ! fabric1 z 9 ,c>tisane lace4 ,9 
old acc\nts ( laces1 ! t]m 0 (t5 appli$ 
to ^? made on ! pill[ to di/+ui% !m f   
ne$le-po9t laces1 & x 0 d]iv$ f ! patt]n
 on :i* pill[ laces 7 work$4  #ei       
,illu/ration3 ,imitation ,po9t de ,v5ise

 ,comb9$ ) ,po9t ,gaze4  #fj            
,,passem5t4--,a t]m appli$ to ! olde/   
class ( pill[ laces1 at a "t :5 !y 7 (  
comp>atively simple con/ruction1 be+    
little m ?an op5 braids & gimps4 ,?is   
designation 0 9 use until ! middle ( !  
sev5te5? c5tury4 ,! ^w is n[ appli$ to a
 decorative edg+ or trimm+1 especially a
 gimp or braid4 ,x is an old ,fr5* ^w1 &
 9 ! c\ntry ( its orig9 includ$ 9 its   
mean+ bo? lace & embroid]ies4 ,x has an 
int]e/+ lit]>y association1 hav+ figur$1
 "u ! slightly alt]$ =m ( passem5s1 9 a 
satirical poem publi%$ at ,p>is 9 #affa4
 ,! poem1 :i* is entitl$ ,la ,revolte   
des ,passem5s1 is d$icat$ to            
,mademoiselle de la ,tr\sse1 a c\s9 (   
,madame de ,sevigne1 & 0 probably       
compos$ by "o ( h] lit]>y fri5ds4 ,x is 
a prote/ aga9/ a sumptu>y law pass$ 9 ! 
previ\s ye> to *eck ! lavi% exp5diture  
on laces import$ f ,v5ice & ,italy1 & is
 int]e/+ z an acc\nt ( ! be/ laces ( t  
day1 among :i* are ,po9tes de ,g5es1 de 
,raguse1 de ,v5ise1 d',anglet]re et de  

,fl&]s1 z well z ! ,gueuse ( humbl]     
pret5sions4 ,! v>i\s laces are suppos$  
to revolt aga9/ ! law exclud+ !m f      
,france1 & especially f _! place 9 !    
exalt$ society ( ! c\rt4 ,mesdames les  
,brod]ies--   ,le ,po9cts1 ,d5telles1   
,passem5s1   ,qui p> une va9e desp5ce1  
,ru9oi5t auj\rd'hui la ,france--  call  
an indignation meet+4 ,"o ( !m hotly    
dem&s :at puni%m5t %all be met$ out to !
 c\rt = su* treatm5t--   ,dites moi je  
v\s prie1   ,po9cts1 d5telles ou        
brod]ies1   ,qu'aurons n\s donc fait a  
la c\r1 etc4  ,v>i\s laces speak _! m9d 
freely 9 reply1 b mo/ ( !m are gloomy z 
to ! future1 :ile a few try to take a   
philosophical view ( ! situation1 &     
resign !mselves to an humbl] ?\gh /ill  
useful fate4 ,an ,engli% lace1 une ,gr&e
 ,d5telle d',anglet]re answ]s   ,cet    
in=tune sans seconde   ,elle fait bi5   
r5onc] au monde     99    99    99    99
    99    99   ,p\r ne plus t\rn] a t\t 
v5t   ,comme d'entr] dans un ,conv5t4   
,! laces ( ,fl&]s are n s submissive z  

t1 be+ too va9 & ambiti\s = r5unciation 
( ! _w & life 9 a conv5t1 & _! angry    
opposition />ts a little tempe/ (       
debate1 fi]ce resolution alt]nat+ )     
despair4 ,a black lace 9 hopeless mood  
hires h]self out ) a game m]*ant1 = nets
 to cat* snipe & woodcock4 ,an old gold 
lace1 9 gr&mo!rly /yle1 tries to com=t !
 y\ng] ones1 by rem9d+ !m ( ! vanity ( !
 _w4 ,%e kn[s all ab\t x--%e1 :o has    
dwelt 9 k+'s h\ses4 ,! ,fl&]s laces cry 
out t r ?an give 9 !y w\ld soon] be sewn
 to ! bottom ( a petticoat4 ,"s ( !     
y\ng] ones decl>e !y mu/ /ill h         
amusem5t1 hav+ _h s mu*1 & r ?an r5\nce 
! _w !y w #fa seek refuge 9 ! masqu]ade 
%ops4 ,! po9t laces1 ) ! exception (    
,aurillac1 !n resolve to g ea* to 8 own 
c\ntry1 :5 sudd5ly ! humble b plucky    
,gueuse lace1 ! lace ( ! common p1      
arrives f a village ne> ,p>is &         
enc\rages ! o!rs to fight x out4  ,!    
next morn+ !y all assemble & agree ^u a 
plan ( campaign1 b be=e do+ s take /ock 
( _! qualifications & prospects4 ,po9ct 

d',al5con has a good op9ion ( h]self2 a 
,fl&]s lace says %e made two campaigns  
"u ! k+1 z a cravat2 ano!r _h be5 9 !   
w>s "u ! great ,m>%al ,tur5ne2 ano!r 0  
torn at ! siege ( ,dunkirk2 & all _h    
done some?+ wor? notice4 ,:at h we to   
fe>8 ask$ an ,engli% lace4 ,a ,po9ct de 
,g5es1 ( r flabby "*1 advises ! ,engli% 
lace to g sl[4 ,f9ally op5 w> is decl>$1
 & ! laces all assemble at ! fair ( ,/4 
,g]ma9 to be review$ by ,g5]al ,luxe4 ,!
 mu/] roll is call$ by ,colonel ,sotte  
,dep5se1 & ! v>i\s regim5ts & battalions
 m>* =? to victory or dea?4 ,b !y got   
nei!r1 = at ! fir/ approa* ( ! royal    
artill]y !y take to _! heels1 are       
captur$ & condemn$ to v>i\s puni%m5ts4  
,! gold & silv] laces1 ! lead]s ( !     
rebellion1 are s5t5c$ to ! fate (       
,jeanne ,d',arc1 to be burn$ alive2 !   
po9ts are condemn$ to be made into t9d] 
= ! sole use ( ! ,k+'s ,muskete]s2 o!rs 
are to be made into cordage or s5t to ! 
galleys4 ,b p>don is obta9$ ?r\gh ! good
 (fices ( cunn+ little ,cupid--,le petit

 dieu ple9 de f9esse1 & ! rebels are    
re/or$ to _! =m] position4  ,! poem     
illu/rates ! policy ( mo/ ,european     
gov]nm5ts at t "t1 a policy ( exclud+   
=eign manufactures ( all k9ds2 & 9 !    
case ( laces1 ! fe> ( enc\rag+ wa/eful  
habits among ! ri*1 :o (f]$ a tempt+    
opportunity = royal extortion1 0 too #fb
 useful a pret5ce to be pass$ by4 ,b all
 ^! ef=ts 7 fruitless to disc\rage !    
gr[? ( lacemak+4 ,! passion = beauty 9  
p]sonal adornm5t w\ld n d[n4 ,! engrav+s
 ( ,abraham ,bosse1 :i* portray ! dress 
& mann]s ( t "t1 humor\sly depict !     
despair ( ! fa%ionable lady ov] !       
prospect ( giv+ up h] laces4 ,%e is     
repres5t$ z attir$ 9 pla9 hemm$ l95     
cuffs1 coll> & cap ( ,puritanical       
sev]ity1 bemoan+ h] sad fate1 9         
he>tbreak+ /ra9s1 z %e sorr[fully packs 
away h] ri* lace-trimm$ co/umes4 ,h]    
sadness 0 n unduly prolong$4 ,colb]t1 ! 
great ,fr5* /atesman1 saw t laces w\ld  
be smuggl$ if !y 7 legally prohibit$1 t 
! ri* w\ld h !m at any co/1 s he        

enc\rag$ =eign lacemak]s to come to     
,france1 & ! manufacture 0 ?us promot$4 
,,pill[4--,lace made on ! pill[ or      
cu%ion1 bo? patt]n & me% be+ =m$ by h&4 
,see ,ne$le-po9t lace4  ,,plait$4--,a   
pill[ lace ( simple geometrical design1 
(t5 made ( /rong & /iff /r&s1 su* z gold
 ?read or f9e braid4 ,! patt]n1 besides 
be+ geometrical 9 design1 is op51 & has 
no gr\nds4 ,= ord9>y purposes t9sel is  
us$ in/ead ( real gold1 & ! lace is !n  
employ$ = !atrical purposes4            
,hi/orically consid]$1 ! plait$ laces   
made ( gold1 silv] or silk ?read1 took !
 place ( ! ,italian knott$ laces ( !    
sixte5? c5tury4 ,^? produc$ at ,g5oa & 9
 ,spa9 7 ! be/1 & !y are made 9 ,spa9   
to-day1 *iefly = *ur* uses4 ,! ?read    
plait$ laces ( ! sev5te5? c5tury 7 us$  
to trim ruffs & fall+ coll>s1 b w5t out 
( fa%ion :5 fl[+ wigs came 91 z ! latt] 
hid ! coll> & w\ld n all[ ruffs to be   
worn4 ,at ! pres5t "t plait$ laces h    
become kn[n "u ! "n ( ,maltese & ,cluny1
 & are made at ,auv]gne1 9 ,france1     

,malta1 & 9 ! ,engli% c\nties (         
,b$=d%ire & ,buck+ham%ire4 #fc          
,illu/ration3 ,real ,maltese4           
,illu/ration3 ,real ,guipure4  #fd      
,,plau54--,a "n appli$ to any k9d ( lace
 made at ,plau51 ,saxony1 or else:]e1 ^u
 ! embroid]+ ma*9e1 su* z ,ori5tal1     
tulle & *iffon lace1 ,po9t de ,v5ise1   
,po9t d',irl&e4 ,plau5 l$ 9 !           
manufacture ( ?is k9d ( lace1 hav+ begun
 x 9 #ahha1 f :i* ye> dates ! importance
 ( t city z a lace m>ket4 ,! manufacture
 0 gradually develop$4 ,only ! tulle    
v>iety ( embroid]y lace 0 produc$ until 
#ahhf4 ,! di/+ui%+ feature ( ?is 0 t !  
holl[ effects 7 made by op5+ ! tulle    
me%es by h&4 ,!n1 9 #ahhf1 an op5work   
process 0 inv5t$ by :i* *emical action 0
 employ$ to remove a wool5 or silk      
f\ndation f ! cotton-embroid]$ patt]n1  
or a cotton f\ndation f a silk embroid]y
 t _h be5 work$ on x4 ,?is made x       
possible to =m ! patt]n by ! embroid]y  
ma*9e 9 ! same way z 9 ! case ( ord9>y  
embroid]y4 ,! wool f\ndation1 :i* is    

necess>y to be remov$ 9 f9i%+ ! goods1  
is dissolv$ by ! action ( c]ta9 *emicals
 )\t *ang+ ! cotton or silk patt]n4 ,9  
?is way ! mo/ difficult & complicat$    
patt]ns ( real lace c be imitat$4 ,plau5
 manufactur]s h = ! mo/ "p tak5 ! old & 
co/ly h&-made laces ( =m] times = _!    
models2 b !y h also orig9at$ new &      
ta/eful designs f "t to "t4  ,,po9t     
,,applique4--,po9t lace ^: design is    
sep>ate f ! net gr\nd1 to :i* x is      
aft]w>d appli$4 ,at ! pres5t "t ! net   
gr\nd is usually ma*9e-made4 ,! ^w po9t1
 h[ev]1 9 ?is connection1 is ( v>iable  
application1 sometimes signify+ ,po9t   
,applique1 & sometimes d5ot+ lace1 :e!r 
pill[ or ne$le-po9t2 t is1 work$ 9      
sprays & laid ^u a ma*9e-net gr\nd4     
7,see ,application lace47  ,,po9t       
,d',,al5con4--,see ,al5con4  ,,po9t     
,d',,anglet]re4--,see ,engli% ,po9t4    
,,po9t ,,de ,,gaze4--,a v f9e1 gauze-l  
lace1 made entirely ) ! #fe ne$le &     
gr\nd$ ) its own net4 ,po9t de ,gaze is 
! result ( an attempt ( ! ,brussels     

lacemak]s to return to ! be/ e>ly       
traditions ( ne$le-po9t4 ,po9t de ,gaze 
diff]s1 h[ev]1 f ! f9e/ old ne$le-po9t 9
 c]ta9 respects1 p>tly necessitat$ by   
mod]n ta/e 9 design1 & p>tly f ! ne$ (  
great economy 9 labor co/s4 ,= example1 
! execution is mu* m op5 & delicate ?an 
9 ! e>ly lace ( ?is description1 b ?is v
 delicacy & slightness are made use ( to
 produce a v elegant effect4 ,"p ( !    
toile1 or sub/ance ( ! patt]n1 is made 9
 close & "p 9 op5 /it*1 giv+ an         
appe>ance ( %ad+1 & ! op5 p>ts are v    
ta/efully ornam5t$ ) dots4 ,! result    
does n 9 all respects equal ! s(tness & 
ri*ness ( ! e>ly lace1 b if ,po9t de    
,gaze seems ?9 & loose 9 comp>ison1 & if
 ! patt]ns seem less ideally beautiful1 
nev]!less ! lat] "w has a unique        
lightness & delicacy to :i* ! e>li] lace
 did n atta94 ,x c]ta9ly is ! mo/ e!rial
 & delicately beautiful ( all po9t      
laces4 ,its =ms are n emphasiz$ by a    
rais$ outl9e ( buttonhole /it*+1 z 9    
,po9t d',al5con & ,po9t d',arg5tan1 b   

are simply outl9$ by a ?read4  ,,po9t   
,,de ,,g5e4--,a "n at pres5t appli$ to a
 species ( lace made bo? 9 cotton & silk
 at ,/4 ,gall & ,plau51 & recogniz$ by  
its regul> net gr\nd & l>ge1 op5 patt]ns
 9 heavy /it*work4 ,x is a popul> trimm+
 = wom5's dresses4 ,po9t de ,g5e1 or    
,g5es1 0 orig9ally "o ( ! laces made at 
! city ( ,g5oa & 9 ! surr\nd+ c\ntry    
dur+ ! sev5te5? c5tury1 bo? ! pill[ &   
ne$le laces made !re be+ des]v$ly fam\s4
 ,gold & silv] ?read & gold wire 7 us$ 9
 ! manufacture ( ! e>lie/ ne$le-po9t    
laces at ,g5oa1 & ! gold wire 0 drawn   
out 9 exact imitation ( ! e>ly ,greek   
me?od4 ,"o ( ! be/ ,g5oese laces        
resembles ! e>ly ,greek po9ts 9 patt]ns4
 ,!re 0 also a guipure lace1 made f aloe
 fib]1 z well z ! knott$ lace n[ #ff    
kn[n z ,macrame4 ,! la/ nam$ is ! only  
lace at pres5t made 9 ,g5oa1 & along !  
seacoa/4  ,,po9t ,d',,esprit4--,a t]m   
appli$ to a small oval or squ>e figure1 
peculi> to c]ta9 v>ieties ( e>ly        
guipure1 & ord9>ily compos$ ( ?ree %ort 

l5g?s ( p>*m5t or cord1 plac$ side by   
side & cov]$ ) ?read4 ,^! oval or squ>e 
figures 7 mo/ commonly arrang$ 9 ! =m ( 
rosettes4 ,at pres5t ! t]m ,po9t        
d',esprit d5otes a mu* small] solid or  
mat surface1 us$ to div]sify ! net gr\nd
 ( "s laces4 ,x is 9 ! =m ( small squ>es
 t set at close & regul> int]vals4 ,9   
/&>d hi/ories ( lace ! t]m is also us$ z
 synonym\s ) embroid]$ tulle1 made 9    
,brittany1 ,d5m>k & ar\nd ,g5oa4  ,,po9t
 ,d',,irl&e4--,a co>se1 ma*9e-made      
imitation ( real ,v5etian po9t lace4 ,x 
is popul> = dress trimm+s1 & is         
manufactur$ 9 a great v>iety ( wid?s 9  
cotton & silk4 ,x has no net gr\nd1 !   
patt]ns be+ unit$ by brides4  ,,po9t    
,,de ,,milan4--,a guipure lace ) a small
 me% gr\nd1 & ! patt]n di/+ui%$ by /rik+
 scroll designs4 ,! fl[]s 9 ! patt]n (  
h&-made ,po9t de ,milan are flat1 & h ! 
appe>ance ( hav+ be5 wr\ght 9 close-wov5
 l954 ,milan po9t 0 made at ! city ( t  
"n 9 #adic4 ,gold & silv] ?read 7 fir/  
us$1 b ! ,milan po9ts 7 f9] ?an ^!1 &   

fully equal to ! be/ ,spani% & ,v5etian 
po9ts4  ,,po9t ,,de ,,p>is4--,orig9ally 
a n>r[ pill[ lace1 resembl+ ,brussels4  
,! t]m is n[ g5]ally appli$ to a        
ma*9e-made cotton lace ( simple patt]n &
 inf]ior quality4 ,9 its mak+ a design  
^: figures1 su* z fl[]s & leaves1 are   
outl9$ ) a heavy ?read1 is work$ ^u a   
net gr\nd4 ,po9t de ,p>is is di/+ui%$ by
 ! net1 :i* is hexagonal 9 =m4  ,,po9t  
,,de ,,v5ise4--,see ,v5ice ,po9t4 #fg   
,illu/ration3 ,imitation ,iri% ,cro*et4 
#fh  ,,po9t4--,same z ,ne$le-po9t lace1 
made :olly by h&1 ) ! ne$le & a s+le    
?read4  ,,pot4--,lace ^: patt]n is      
di/+ui%$ by ! figure ( a vase or deep   
di%1 & sometimes by t ( a basket conta9+
 fl[]s4 ,x is ! be/-kn[n lace made at   
,antw]p1 & 0 =m]ly 9 common use 9 t city
 = decorat+ wom5's caps4 ,! vase &      
basket figures v>y mu* 9 size & design4 
,"s h consid]$ ?is patt]n to be a       
survival f an e>li] design1 includ+ !   
figure ( ! ,virg9 & ! ,annunciation1 b  
?is is n c]ta94  ,,p[d]$4--,lace ^:     

gr\nd is /rewn ) small1 sep>ate         
ornam5ts1 su* z fl[]s1 sprigs1 or       
squ>es1 l ,po9t d',esprit4 ,! t]m is    
appli$ also to :it5$ lace4              
,,r5aissance4--,a mod]n po9t lace1 ^:   
patt]ns are made ( n>r[ braid1 & unit$  
by b>s or fill+ ( diff]5t k9ds4 ,x is   
g5]ally ornam5t$ ) circul> figures &    
scroll-"w1 /it*$ 9 place by ne$le &     
?read1 ! int]v5+ spaces or gr\ndwork1   
be+ compos$ ( a v>iety ( fancy op5work4 
,iri% ,r5aissance1 ,luxeuil & ,batt5b]g 
are ! o!r names = ?is lace4  ,,rose     
,,po9t4--,see ,v5ice ,po9t4             
,,saxony4--,f9e drawnwork embroid]$ ) ! 
ne$le1 9 mu* dem& 9 ! eighte5? c5tury4  
,at ! pres5t "t ! t]m is some:at vague1 
d5ot+ _m k9ds ( laces made 9 ,saxony1   
especially 9 imitation ( old ,brussels  
lace4 ,?\gh ! latt] is ! be/ t is made1 
a co>se guipure lace1 kn[n z ,et]velle1 
& plait$ lace has ! greate/ sale4       
,,seam+4--,a n>r[ op5work ins]tion1 gimp
 or braid+1 ) p>allel sides1 us$ = jo9+ 
two bread?s ( l951 in/ead ( sew+ !m     

directly ! "o to ! o!r4 ,! "n is giv5 to
 a simil> lace us$ = edg+s1 z 9 ! trimm+
 ( pill[-cases & %eets4 #fi ,dur+ !     
sixte5? & sev5te5? c5turies ?is lace 0 v
 popul>1 ?\gh ! "n seam+ 0 !n appli$ to 
any k9d ( lace us$ = a p>ticul>         
purpose--namely1 to ins]t 9 ! l95 or o!r
 fabric :]ev] a seam appe>$1 & (t5 :]e  
no seam 0 really necess>y4 ,! lace fir/ 
us$ = ?is purpose 0 cut-"w2 !n ,hollie  
po9t became fa%ionable1 & aft]w>d !     
cu/om grew to be s common t *eap] laces 
7 employ$4 ,!re is /ill 9 exi/5ce a %eet
 decorat$ ) cut-"w t once belong$ to    
,%akespe>e4  ,,silv]4--,a passem5t or   
guipure :olly or 9 l>ge "p compos$ (    
silv] wire1 or ( w>p ?reads ( silk1 or  
silk & cotton comb9$1 w\nd ) a ?91 flat 
ribbon ( silv]4 ,see ,gold lace4        
,,spani%4--,a g5]al t]m applies to !    
foll[+ f\r diff]5t k9ds ( lace3 7a7     
,ne$le-po9t lace1 br\ght f ,spani%      
conv5ts aft] _! dissolution1 ?\gh ! art 
( mak+ x is ?\ght by "s to h be5 le>n$ 9
 ,fl&]s4 7b7 ,cut & drawnwork made 9    

,spani% conv5ts1 ( patt]ns usually      
conf9$ to simple sprigs & fl[]s4 7c7 ,a 
mod]n black silk lace ) l>ge fl[]       
patt]ns4 7d7 ,a mod]n ne$le-made fabric1
 ! patt]n usually 9 l>ge squ>es4 ,!     
ma*9e-made black & :ite silk laces1 ) _!
 fl[] patt]ns1 are f ,lyons & ,calais1  
,france4 ,mu* c\ld be said ab\t !       
unc]ta9 application ( ! t]m ,spani% 9   
reg>d to c]ta9 k9ds ( lace4 ,x has (t5  
be5 inaccurately us$4 ,= in/ance1       
,spani% ,po9t & ,po9t d',espagne h be5  
misappli$ to ,italian laces1 9 ! same   
way t ,po9t d',anglet]re has be5        
misappli$ to ,brussels lace4 ,9 ! f\r   
k9ds ( ,spani% lace above enum]at$1 x is
 noticeable t "s are ( ,flemi% orig94 ,a
 lace kn[n = c]ta9 to be ( ,spani% orig9
 is a co>se pill[ guipure made 9 :ite   
?read & also ( gold & silv]4 ,x is a    
loosely made fabric consi/+ ( ?ree      
cordonnets1 ! c5t] "o be+ ! co>se/1     
unit$ by f9] ?reads runn+ 9 & out across
 !m1 & ) brides to jo9 #gj ! p>ts ( !   
patt]n & keep !m 9 %ape4 ,x is well kn[n

 t l>ge quantities ( lace t h !         
*>act]i/ics ( rais$ ,v5etian ,po9t 7 us$
 9 ,spa91 bo? = c\rt dresses & *ur*     
purposes1 su* z ! ornam5tation ( ve/m5ts
 & alt>s4 ,dur+ ! invasion ( ,napoleon !
 *ur*es & mona/]ies 7 pillag$ & ! laces 
conta9$ !re9 7 scatt]$ abroad & sold z  
be+ ( ,spani% orig91 ?\gh _m ( !m 7 n4  
,! graceful ,spani% headdress1 !        
mantilla1 has be5 *iefly made 9 !       
prov9ce ( ,catalonia1 out ( black & :ite
 ,blondes1 b x is inf]ior to a simil>   
lace ( ,fr5* manufacture4 ,! mo/        
celebrat$ ( ! ,spani% laces are ! gold &
 silv] fabrics1 kn[n z ,po9t d',espagne1
 ! ,blonde laces & ,spani% or ,rose     
po9t4 ,! fir/-nam$ is a v old lace1 0   
kn[n 9 ,spa9 z e>ly z ! middle ( !      
fifte5? c5tury1 & is made ) gold & silv]
 ?reads1 ^u :i* a patt]n is embroid]$ 9 
color$ silk4 ,! ,blondes1 :i* h be5     
already m5tion$1 h ?ick ?\gh graceful   
patt]ns ^u a light net gr\nd4 ,rose po9t
 is :olly made ) ! ne$le & is v l       
,v5etian po9t1 be+ consid]$1 9 fact1 z a

 v>iety ( ! latt]4 ,! close resemblance 
is acc\nt$ = by ! fact t ?is k9d ( lace 
0 made by ! inmates ( religi\s h\ses1   
:i* 7 transf]r$ f "o c\ntry to ano!r at 
! w ( _! sup]ior & c>ri$ ) !m ! secret (
 a difficult art4 ,! ,rose po9ts1 "s (  
:i* are n rais$1 are =m$ ) a            
patt]n-work$ net 9 buttonhole /it*es1 ! 
p>ts ( ! patt]n be+ jo9$ toge!r by      
brides4 ,! rais$ ,rose po9ts are        
recogniz$ by _! ?ick cordonnet or outl9+
 ( ! patt]n4  ,,tamb\r4--,lace made )   
ne$le embroid]y ^u a ma*9e-made net1    
g5]ally black or :ite ,nott+ham4 ,x is  
*iefly made 9 ,irel& & commonly includ$ 
among ! ,lim]ick laces4  #ga            
,illu/ration3 ,leav]s's ,lace ,ma*9e4   
#gb ,,tape4--,a lace made ) ! ne$le1    
except t a tape or n>r[ /rip ( l95 is   
wr\ght into ! "w & is ! di/+ui%+ feature
 ( ! patt]n4 ,^! pla9 or ornam5t$ tapes 
or braids1 arrang$ s z to =m ! patt]n1 h
 always be5 peculi> to ?is k9d ( lace4  
,! patt]ns are connect$ toge!r ) ei!r   
bride or net gr\nds4 ,! e>lie/ 7 made ) 

a bride gr\nd & simple clo? /it*1 b     
gradually v elaborate designs 7 wr\ght z
 "p ( ! braid-l patt]ns & unit$ by      
op5-me%$ gr\nds4 ,9 ! sev5te5? &        
eighte5? c5turies ! braid & tape laces  
includ$ ! l>ge majority ( co>se pill[   
laces made 9 ,fl&]s1 ,spa9 & ,italy4    
,,?read4--,lace made f l95 ?read z      
di/+ui%$ f silk & cotton laces4 ,black  
?read is a misnom] = ,*antilly4         
,,tor*on4--,a co>se pill[ lace made (   
/rong1 s(t & loosely twi/$ ?read4 ,9    
,europe x is kn[n also z ,begg>s' lace1 
& ! old ,fr5* ,gueuse lace 0 simil> to  
,tor*on4 ,! patt]ns g5]ally are v simple
 & =m$ ) a loose /\t ?read & ! gr\nd is 
co>se net4 ,tor*on is n[ also ma*9e     
made4  ,,val5ci5nes4--,a solid & durable
 pill[ lace hav+ ! same k9d ( ?read     
?r\gh\t = bo? gr\nd & patt]n4 ,bo? !    
patt]n & gr\nd are wr\ght toge!r by !   
same h&1 & z ?is dem&s mu* skill 9 !    
manipulation ( a great _m ?reads &      
bobb9s1 ! price ( ,val5ci5nes is v high4
 ,! me% ( ! gr\nd is usually squ>e or   

diamond %ap$1 v op5 & ( great regul>ity4
 ,x is a flat lace1 work$ 9 "o piece1 & 
no diff]5t k9d ( ?read is introduc$ to  
outl9e ! patt]n or to be wr\ght into any
 "p ( ! fabric4 ,?is af=ds a ready means
 ( di/+ui%+ ! h&-made v>iety ( ?is lace4
 ,! ,val5ci5nes n[ made is n s beautiful
 9 design & con/ruction z ! fabric ( an 
e>li] date1 especially 9 ! latt] "p ( ! 
eighte5? c5tury4 ,x is usually ( n>r[]  
wid? & is easi] to le>n h[ to make4     
,val5ci5nes 0 fir/ made at ! t[n ( t "n1
 :i*1 #gc ?\gh orig9ally ,flemi%1 0     
transf]r$ to ,france by treaty2 & !     
manufacture at ?is t[n 0 c>ri$ on "u    
conditions :i* assur$ ! sup]iority ( !  
lace produc$ !re4 ,! diff]5ce betwe5 !  
,val5ci5nes product & t ( o!r t[ns c\ld 
be detect$ by ! s(t] feel 9 ! =m] case1 
because ! moi/ climate ( ,val5ci5nes    
gave a smoo!r action to ! bobb9s :5 us$ 
9 manufacture2 & x is int]e/+ to note t 
! lace 0 made 9 und]gr\nd rooms4 ,^!    
peculi>ities e>n$ = lace made 9 t t[n ! 
"n ( ,vraie ,val5ci5nes1 & x br\ght a   

high] price ?an ! ,val5ci5nes ( !       
surr\nd+ villages4 ,! ?read 0 spun f !  
f9e/ flax4 ,to buy a y>d ( a fl\nce or a
 pair ( broad ruffles 0 a s]i\s matt] = 
! pur*as] unless he 0 weal?y4 ,! labor  
co/ 0 high ev5 9 ^? days ( l[ wages2 f  
#cjj to #a1bjj bobb9s 7 requir$ 9 a     
piece ( f9e "w4 ,! hi/ory ( ! *anges 9  
,val5ci5nes patt]ns is1 to "s ext5t1 a  
hi/ory ( det]ioration 9 elegance (      
design4 ,! fir/ patt]ns 7 exquisitely   
beautiful1 ! designs (t5 be+ wr\ght 9   
gr\nds t 7 v>i$ 9 sev]al ways ev5 9 "o  
piece4 ,! designs aft]w>d became simpl]1
 & octagon & hexagon me%es came to take 
! place ( ! close gr\nds ( e>li]        
manufacture4 ,s9ce #aghj ! light] & less
 exp5sive laces ( ,lille1 ,brussels &   
,arras h p>tly ou/$ ! m beautiful1 co/ly
 & durable product ( ,val5ci5nes1 :ile  
*anges 9 mod]n dress h /opp$ ! dem& = "s
 articles :i* 7 =m]ly among ! fa%ionable
 ma9/ays ( ! indu/ry2 = example1 m5's   
ruffles4  ,! ,fr5* ,revolution          
practically de/roy$ lacemak+ at         

,val5ci5nes1 & ! indu/ry 0 transf]r$ to 
,belgium4 ,! lace produc$ !re 01 h[ev]1 
giv5 ! "n ( ,false ,val5ci5nes4 ,alo/1  
,bruges1 ,ypres1 ,gh5t1 ,m59 & ,c\rtrai 
became c5t]s ( ! manufacture1 & ! lace  
made 9 ea* t[n _h a di/+ui%+ #gd feature
 9 ! gr\nd4 ,= example1 ! ,gh5t gr\nd is
 squ>e me%$1 ! bobb9 be+ twi/$ two &    
"o-half times4 ,at ,ypres1 ! gr\nd is   
squ>e me%$1 b ! bobb9s are twi/$ f\r    
times4 ,9 ,c\rtrai & ,m591 ! bobb9s are 
twi/$ ?ree & a half times1 & 9 ,bruges  
?ree times4 ,z an illu/ration ( ! fact t
 ! mak+ ( old ,val5ci5nes is a lo/ art1 
x is int]e/+ to note t ! la/ important  
piece ( "w execut$ )9 t t[n 0 a         
headdress pres5t$ by ! t[n to ! ,du*esse
 de ,nemoms on h] m>riage 9 #ahdj4 ,!   
headdress 0 made by old wom51 ! few real
 ,val5ci5nes lacework]s !n surviv+1 ) ! 
praisewor?y & patriotic object ( %[+ !  
p]fection ( ! product ( =m] days4 ,!re  
are sev]al ma*9e-made v>ieties (        
,val5ci5nes4 ,engli% ,val5ci5nes is     
*iefly made at ,nott+ham2 x is also     

call$ ,platt & ,norm&y ,val5ci5nes4 ,x  
is an imitation ( ! e>ly h&-made lace1  
to ! ext5t ( hav+ a simil> diamond-me%$ 
gr\nd4 ,its patt]n is )\t relief1 & !   
?reads ( :i* x is made are no heavi] ?an
 ! gr\nd4 ,fr5* ,val5ci5nes is made     
mo/ly at ,calais4 ,its patt]n is usually
 outl9$ by a /\t] ?read ?an t =m+ !     
gr\nd1 & x has a f9] f9i% & s(t] feel   
?an ! ,engli% ,val5ci5nes2 9 fact1 x is 
an excell5t imitation ( ! real4 ,italian
 ,val5ci5nes is a n>r[1 f9e-?read$ lace1
 us$ = trimm+ f9e und]we>4  #ge         
,illu/ration3 ,s*iffli or ,p[]          
,embroid]+ ,ma*9e4  #gf ,,v5ice         
,,po9t4--,a ne$le-po9t lace made at     
,v5ice dur+ ! fir/ half ( ! sev5te5?    
c5tury4 ,x is some:at difficult to apply
 ! "n exclusively to any "o ( ! sev]al  
v>ieties ( ,v5etian po9t made at t "t2 b
 ,v5etian ,rais$ po9t1 ^: patt]n is (   
l>ge1 beautifully design$ fl[]s 9 decid$
 relief & unit$ by brides or b>s1 is    
commonly call$ ,v5etian po9t4 ,o!r names
 appli$ to ?is k9d ( lace are ,rose     

po9t1 ,v5etian ,flat po9t1 ,c>nival     
lace1 ,c>d9al's po9t1 ,pope's po9t1 &   
,po9t d',espagne4 ,^! names simply      
regi/] ! v>i\s *anges ( /yle &          
manufacture 9 ! hi/ory ( ?is lace4 ,) ! 
exception ( ,po9t d',espagne1 :i* has a 
less valid claim to be call$ ,v5etian   
po9t ?an ! o!rs1 ! v>i\s names giv5 s]ve
 r\ghly to sugge/ ! di/9ction betwe5    
?ree sep>ate /ages 9 po9t ( /yle & date 
( ! fabric kn[n broadly z ,punto        
tagliato a foliani1 or ,v5etian po9t4   
,!y are g5]ally giv5 z foll[s3 7#a7     
,v5etian ,rais$ po9t1 or ,gros ,po9t de 
,v5ise1 "u :i* is includ$ ,rose po9t2   
7#b7 ,v5etian ,flat po9t1 or ,po9t ,plat
 de ,v5ise1 ) its lat] v>iety1 kn[n z   
,coral9e po9t2 7#c7 ,gr\nd$ ,v5etian    
po9t1 or ,po9t de ,v5ise a ,reseau1 :i* 
includes ,burano po9t1 s call$ f ! isl& 
ne> ,v5ice1 :]e x 0 made4 ,) reg>d to   
,rais$ po9t1 x is wor? not+1 9 addition 
to ! *>act]i/ics already ref]r$ to1 t ! 
fl[] design is ( a fre$om & cont9uity t 
make ! patt]n s fill+ t !re is v little 

space left = ! gr\nd1 ! bridework m]ely 
s]v+ to hold ! patt]n /rongly toge!r4 ,!
 cordonnet1 or outl9+ ?read1 is         
unusually prom95t1 & ! rais$ "p is no   
less rem>kable = its boldness 9 design  
?an = its delicate workman%ip4 ,an      
,italian poet has describ$ ?is "w z     
sculptur$ 9 relief4 ,9 ,rais$ po9t !    
skill ( ! lacework] 0 in=m$ by ! in/9ct 
= beauty 9 su* a degree z to produce "o 
( ! highe/ types ( ! art4 ,rose po9t    
resembles ,rais$ po9t 9 all ess5tial    
features1 ! only diff]5ce be+ t !       
designs are small] & ! ornam5tation m   
abundant4 ,! patt]n is less fill+ & !   
connect+ brides m prom95t4  ,flat       
,v5etian po9t is m>k$ by an abs5ce ( !  
prom95t rais$ "w1 ! designs are m       
att5uat$1 & ! brides are altoge!r m     
prom95t ?an 9 ! ,rais$ po9t4 ,coral9e   
po9t is a v>iety ( ,flat po9t1 :i* mu/  
be consid]$ a det]ioration 9 design on  
acc\nt ( its ill-connect$ & irregul>    
patt]n1 :i* 0 orig9ally suppos$ to      
imitate a bran* ( coral4 ,!re is no     

rais$ "w1 ! gr\nd me%es are ill-arrang$ 
& ill-%ap$1 & on ! :ole ?is #gg lace    
m>ks ! decad5ce ( an art =m]ly almo/    
p]fect4 ,x is m l an imitation ( a free 
gr[? ( plants1 ! tangl$ gr[? ( a /ate ( 
nature1 z comp>$ ) ! ord] & beauty (    
art4 ,! gr\nd$ po9t1 ! la/ /age (       
developm5t ( ,v5etian lace1 began to be 
made to supply ! m>kets ( ,france aft] !
 f9e old ,v5etian po9t _h be5 exclud$ by
 protective laws4 ,! ,v5etian lacemak]s 
!n adopt$ ! reseau or net gr\nd made at 
,al5con4 ,! gr\nd is compos$ ( d\ble    
twi/$ ?reads1 & has a r\nd] me% ?an     
,al5con1 & !re is no outl9+ cordonnet4  
,9 ?is v>iety ( ,v5etian po9t1 :i* 0    
produc$ dur+ ! latt] half ( ! eighte5?  
c5tury1 ! patt]n is n s well arrang$ z 9
 o!rs1 & !re is a r$undancy (           
ornam5tation4 ,! manufacture ( ,v5etian 
po9t is n[ almo/ ext9ct4 ,! ma*9e-made  
v>iety1 produc$ on ! ,s*iffli embroid]y 
frame1 is n[ made at ,plau5 & ,/4 ,gall4
 7,see ,plau5 lace47  ,,yak4--,a /\t1   
co>se pill[ lace1 made f ! f9e wool ( ! 

,yak4 ,! patt]ns are ( simple1          
geometrical design1 connect$ ) plait$   
guipure b>s t =m "p ( ! patt]n1 be+ made
 out ( ! same ?reads at ! same "t4 ,!   
t]m is also appli$ to a ma*9e-made wor/$
 lace1 produc$ 9 black1 :ite & colors4  
,x is us$ z a trimm+ = und]g>m5ts1 %awls
 & petticoats4  ,,ypres4--,a pill[ lace 
resembl+ ,val5ci5nes1 b sometimes )     
bold] designs & r l>ge loz5ge or squ>e  
me% 9 ! gr\nd2 also a type (            
,val5ci5nes4         99       99        
99       99       99   ,corrections made
 to pr9t$ orig9al3  ,page #b 9 ?\gh x 0 
also reg>d$ z ! insignia3--?\gh1 pr9t$ z
 ?\ght 9 orig9al4  ,page #cd 9 transf]r$
 to ,calvados3--transf]r$1 pr9t$ z      
trasf]r$ 9 orig9al4  ,page #ci 9 !      
leaves ( ! aloe3--aloe1 pr9t$ z alol 9  
orig9al4  ,page #fe 9 rais$ outl9e (    
buttonhole /it*+3--rais$1 pr9t$ z raise 
9 orig9al4  ,page #ge 9 caption ,s*iffli
 or ,p[] ,embroid]+ ,ma*9e3--,embroid]+1
 pr9t$ z ,embrold]+ 9 orig9al4