,transcriber's note3 ,a few             
typographical errors have been          
corrected3 they are listed at the end of
 the text4         99       99       99 
99       99     ,lace   ,its ,origin    
and   ,history    ,samuel ,l4           
,goldenberg    ,illustration            
,brentano's   ,new ,york   #aijd        
,,copyrighted1 #aijd1 ,,by ,,samuel ,l4 
,,goldenberg4  ,illustration3 ,,barbara 
,,uttmann1 ,a4 ,d4 #aefa4      ,i have  
here only a nosegay of culled flowers1  
and have brought nothing     of my own  
but the thread that ties them           
together4--,montaigne4  ,the task of the
 author of this work has not been an    
attempt to brush the dust of ages from  
the early history of lace in the hope of
 contributing to the world's store of   
knowledge on the subject4 ,his purpose1 
rather1 has been to present to those    
whose relation to lace is primarily a   
commercial one a compendium that may1   
perchance1 in times of doubt1 serve as a
 practical guide4  ,though this plan has

 been adhered to as closely as possible1
 the history of lace is so interwoven   
with life's comedies and tragedies1     
extending back over five centuries1 that
 there must be1 here and there in the   
following pages1 a reminiscent tinge of 
this association4  ,lace is1 in fact1 so
 indelibly associated with the chalets  
perched high on mountain tops1 with     
little cottages in the valleys of the   
,appenines and ,pyrenees1 with          
sequestered convents in provincial      
,france1 with the raiment of men and    
women whose names loom large in the     
history of the world1 and the futile as 
well as the successful efforts of       
inventors to relieve tired eyes and     
weary fingers1 that1 no matter how one  
attempts to treat the subject1 it must  
be colored now and again with the hues  
of many peoples of many periods4  ,the  
author1 in avowing his purpose to give  
this work a practical cast1 does not    
wish to be understood as minimizing the 
importance of any of the standard works 

compiled by those whose years of study  
and research among ancient volumes and  
musty manuscripts in many tongues have  
been a labor of love4 ,rather would he  
pay the meed of tribute to those who    
have preserved to posterity the facts   
bearing upon the early history of lace1 
which have been garnered with such great
 care4  ,nevertheless1 most of these    
works1 necessarily voluminous and       
replete with detail1 are more for the   
connoisseur or dilettante than for the  
busy man of affairs upon whom the       
practical aspect of lace1 quite         
dissociated from the romance in which it
 is steeped1 always forces itself4  ,it 
is for men of this type1 and with no    
little misgiving1 and a full            
appreciation of how far short of his    
ideal the volume must be1 that the      
author has undertaken the compilation of
 this work4    ,,samuel ,l4             
,,goldenberg4  ,illustration  #a        
,,lace3  ,its ,origin and ,history4     
99       99       99       99       99  

,when where and how lace had its origin 
no one will pretend to say4 ,there is a 
general agreement1 however1 that lace1  
as the term is understood to-day1 is a  
comparatively modern product1 it being  
impossible to identify any of the       
antique specimens preserved from the    
ravages of time as belonging to a period
 further back than the early part of the
 sixteenth century4  ,true it is that   
there are specimens of woven fabrics of 
a lacelike character which were         
undoubtedly made at an earlier date1 but
 most of the authorities who have delved
 deep into the subject are of opinion   
that lace probably does not antedate ,a4
 ,d4 #aejj4  ,a perusal of the available
 records in many tongues fails to make  
clear just where lace was first made4   
,spain1 ,italy1 ,belgium1 ,france and   
,germany have all claimed the honor1 and
 each has been able to present a great  
deal of testimony in support of its     
contention2 but the records of early    
times are so meagre and indefinite that 

it is impossible to bestow the coveted  
honor for the discovery of the art upon 
any one nation4 #b  ,the instrument that
 is responsible for lace is the needle1 
but the earliest forms of lace were not 
the woven fabric that we know to-day1   
but rather cutwork1 which1 as far as we 
have any authentic records1 was first   
practiced by the nuns in the convents of
 central and southern ,europe4 ,this    
work was sometimes characterized as     
nun's work1 and was designed almost     
exclusively for altar decorations and   
the robes of prelates1 though it was    
also regarded as the insignia of rank   
and station4 ,some of the specimens of  
this work1 still preserved in museums1  
show that the early workers possessed a 
skill in the art never excelled4 ,of    
course1 with the progress of time1      
designs have become more ornate and     
intricate1 but many of the old patterns 
still survive1 and doubtless will       
continue to survive1 till the end of    
recorded time4  ,the desire to elaborate

 the edges of plain fabrics1 whether of 
linen or heavier material1 was an       
entirely natural impulse to get away    
from the harsh simplicity of the times4 
,to this desire must be ascribed the    
beginning of the mammoth lace industry  
of to-day4  ,one authority says that    
coeval with these styles of decoration  
was drawnwork1 in which the weft and    
warp threads of plain linen were drawn  
out1 thus forming a square of network   
made secure by a stitch at each         
intersection4 ,the design was afterward 
embroidered1 frequently with colors4    
,perhaps1 all things considered1 the    
lace industry received its greatest     
impetus during the period known in      
history as the ,renaissance1 when       
,europe1 emerging from the severe and   
formal garb of the ,medieval ,age1 began
 to bedeck itself in the most graceful  
and beautiful manner4  ,a number of     
methods were employed in the production 
of the lace of that brilliant period1   
the simplest of which consisted of      

forming the design independently of the 
foundation4 ,threads spreading at even  
distances from a common center served as
 a framework for others which were      
united in squares1 triangles1 rosettes  
and other figures worked over with the  
buttonhole stitch1 forming in some      
portions openwork1 in others solid      
embroidery4 ,this was1 in fact1 the     
first needle-made lace1 and doubtless   
its origin is due to the ,venetians4  #c
  ,illustration3 ,real ,flemish ,point4 
,illustration3 ,real ,point de ,venise4 
#d ,through constant practice the art   
was developed to a very high state by   
the nuns1 who taught their methods to   
the pupils of the convents1 through whom
 the knowledge passed to the peasantry1 
and thus became an important industry4  
,perhaps1 however1 the development of   
the lace industry at this period was due
 more to the spread of the methods by   
which it was done--through books more   
than in any other manner--for it must be
 remembered that contemporaneously with 

the development of the industry the art 
of printing was in its first bloom4  ,as
 one traces the growth of lacemaking    
from the earliest times he is impressed 
with the sharp advance made at the      
beginning of the seventeenth century1   
when laceworkers1 having practically    
exhausted the designs possible by the   
then known methods1 invented            
passementerie1 which were known as      
passements4 ,these1 speaking broadly1   
much resemble the passementerie of      
to-day4  ,they were made of stout linen 
thread in imitation of high relief work 
of the needle point1 a thick thread     
being introduced to mark the salient    
points of the pattern4 ,thus the term   
guipure was applied to the thread lace  
with guipure reliefs1 and the           
designation has since remained to all   
laces without grounds1 in which the     
patterns are united by brides4  ,in the 
beginning lace was made by two entirely 
distinct processes1 in commenting upon  
which we can do no better than to quote 

the words of ,cole1 which are           
particularly lucid and concise4 ,he     
says3 ,it is remarkable that lacemaking 
should have sprung up or been invented  
at about the same period of time by two 
entirely distinct processes without     
relationship or evolution between them1 
and that the people of the countries    
wherein either of the inventions was    
made were not only #e unknown to each   
other1 but apparently neither had any   
knowledge of the processes of lacemaking
 employed in the other country4  ,one of
 these processes is the employment of   
the needle and the single thread1       
wherein the work was perfected mesh by  
mesh1 each mesh being completed as the  
work progressed4  ,the other process was
 by the use of many threads at once1    
each one attached to bobbins1 for the   
purpose only of separating them1 the    
meshes being made by twisting the       
threads a greater or less number of     
times4 ,when each mesh is only partially
 completed the thread is carried on to  

the next1 and so on1 from side to side1 
the entire width of the fabric4         
,felkin1 in his history of embroidery   
and lace1 says that when pillow lace was
 invented--about the middle of the      
sixteenth century--the various kinds of 
point lace then in use had reached a    
high state of perfection4 ,some early   
writers after much laborious            
investigation assert that pillow lace   
was first made in ,flanders4 ,in later  
years it has been almost universally    
attributed to ,barbara1 wife of         
,christopher ,uttman2 she was then      
dwelling with her husband at the ,castle
 of ,st4 ,annaburg1 ,belgium1 #aefa4    
,from the castle1 where she taught the  
peasantry as in a school1 it soon spread
 over the country1 and women and girls  
of the district1 finding that the making
 of lace was more profitable than their 
former employment of embroidering veils 
according to the ,italian practice1     
adopted the ,uttman method4 ,no trace of
 this mode of making lace 7by use of    

pillow and bobbins7 can be found before 
this date2 hence the presumption that   
these were the time and place of the    
invention of bobbin lace4 ,barbara      
,uttman died in #aege4 ,that she was the
 true inventress is recorded on her     
tomb4  ,it will be seen from the        
foregoing that one process had its      
origin in ,italy1 and the other its     
origin in ,belgium1 though1 if we accept
 ,felkin's statement1 we must accord to 
,italy the first honor1 for he says #f  
distinctly that the ,belgian peasantry  
gave up making lace according to the    
,italian method to adopt the process    
invented by ,barbara ,uttman2           
consequently1 the ,italian method must  
have been first4 ,the present writer    
disclaims any intention to dispose of   
this moot question1 and is only led to  
the above observation by reason of the  
high standing which ,felkin's work has  
attained4  ,there are two broad         
divisions of lace--namely1 hand-made    
lace and machine-made lace4 ,in the     

world of commerce to-day the            
latter-named product1 which is but a    
child of the former1 is vastly the more 
important4 ,this for the reason that    
hand-made lace1 which is produced with  
such arduous toil1 skill and patience1  
is beyond the purse of the million1 and 
is and ever must be considered as one of
 the luxuries4  ,true1 some of the      
simpler forms of hand-made lace are     
produced with relatively great facility1
 and the price is correspondingly cheap1
 as compared with the delicate1 finely  
wrought designs1 that it sometimes takes
 years to produce4 ,nor is this the sole
 reason for the popularity of           
machine-made laces1 for to such         
perfection has the mechanical art of    
lacemaking attained that it is          
practically impossible1 even for        
experts1 to detect the difference       
between lace made by the deft1 cunning  
fingers of lady or maid from the lace   
made possible by modern machinery4  ,in 
hand-made lace the two principal classes

 are the needle-point and bobbin1 or    
pillow-made1 lace4 ,needle-point lace is
 worked upon loose threads laid upon a  
previously drawn pattern1 but which have
 no point of contact with one another   
and no coherency until the needlework   
binds them together4 ,this work is done 
with a needle and single thread4 ,as we 
have said1 the pattern is first drawn1  
usually upon parchment2 a piece of heavy
 linen is stitched to the parchment for 
the purpose of holding it straight2 then
 threads to the number of two1 three1   
four1 or more1 are laid along the many  
lines of the pattern1 and sewed lightly 
down through parchment and linen4 ,the  
entire figure is then carried out1 both 
solid filling and openwork1 with fine   
stitching1 the buttonhole stitch being  
most generally employed4  #g            
,illustration3 ,real ,duchesse and      
,point ,gaze4  ,illustration3 ,real     
,carrick-ma-,cross4  #h ,bobbin1 or     
pillow-made1 lace is the highest        
artistic development of twisted and     

plaited threads4 ,it is made from a     
large number of threads attached by     
means of pins to an oval-shaped cushion 
or pillow1 each thread being wound upon 
a small bobbin4 ,the design1 as in the  
making of needle-point lace1 is first   
drawn on stiff paper or parchment1 and  
carefully stretched over the pillow4    
,then the pattern is pricked out along  
the outline of the drawing and small    
pins are introduced at close intervals1 
around which the threads work to form   
the various meshes and openings4 ,from  
right to left the thread is bound       
lightly upon the bobbins and tied at the
 top of each in a loop that permits it  
gradually to slip off the bobbin when   
gently pulled1 as occurs generally when 
working4  ,the worker begins by         
interlacing the bobbins1 which are used 
in pairs1 placing small pins in all     
perforations1 and crossing the bobbins  
after the insertion of each pin4 ,around
 these pins the design is formed1 the   
threads being crossed and recrossed and 

passed under and over each other with   
remarkable rapidity and accuracy4 ,when 
the whole width of the large piece of   
lace is carried on together the number  
of bobbins and pins is very great and   
the work highly expensive1 but it is    
customary to work each sprig separately1
 these being joined together in the form
 of a strip afterward by means of a     
curious loop-stitch1 made by a hook     
called a needle-pin4  ,scarcely had lace
 been invented before it had assumed    
almost priceless value1 and it is worth 
while remarking here that though        
centuries have since elapsed1 the value 
of these delicate1 hand-wrought fabrics 
has not in any sense diminished4        
,throughout the sixteenth1 seventeenth1 
eighteenth and nineteenth centuries rare
 lace of beautiful pattern has been     
highly prized1 some of the earliest     
specimens1 in the possession of         
world-famous libraries and museums1     
being of relatively fabulous wealth4  #i
  ,illustration3 ,real ,irish ,point4   

,illustration3 ,real ,valenciennes4  #aj
 ,by very reason of the conditions      
inevitably associated with its making1  
lace must always remain one of the      
dearest articles of commerce1 for there 
is certainly nothing more rare or costly
 than these fine1 dainty1 yet withal1   
substantial tissues4  ,perhaps of all   
her compeers ,venice attained the       
highest proficiency in the production of
 beautiful lace4 ,there1 as we have     
remarked1 needle-point had its origin1  
and many of the beautiful patterns      
produced by the women of the ,queen of  
the ,adriatic are even to-day the       
admiration of all who have a true       
appreciation of the artistic4  ,venice  
guarded the secret of her methods with  
jealous care1 and it was many years     
before the world was made familiar with 
the manner in which the exquisite floral
 designs1 with their wealth of minor    
adornments1 were worked out4 ,thus      
,italy was able to lay tribute upon the 
entire civilized world1 and her coffers 

were enriched to overflowing from the   
receipts of the sales of lace to        
eastern1 central and northern ,europe4  
,apropos of ,italy's claim to the       
invention of needle-point1 it has been  
claimed that the ,italians originally   
derived the art of fine needlework from 
the ,greek refugees in ,italy1 while    
another author asserts that the         
,italians are indebted to the ,saracens 
of ,sicily for their knowledge4 ,all    
these claims1 however1 are merely       
speculative4 ,for instance1 no one      
disputes that embroidery antedates lace1
 and yet we have authors who endeavor to
 show that embroidery had its origin in 
,arabia1 deducing from this that lace1  
also1 must have had its birth in one of 
the ,oriental countries4 ,but it is a   
well-established fact that while we have
 absolute knowledge of the existence of 
embroidery in the countries of the      
,levant1 there is absolutely no         
indication1 of even the slightest value1
 that points to the existence of lace   

before it was made by the ,italians and 
,belgians4 #aa  ,in the municipal       
archives of ,ferrara1 dated #adfi1 is an
 allusion to lace1 but there is a       
document of the ,sforza family1 dated in
 #adic1 in which the word trina         
constantly occurs1 together with bone   
and bobbin lace4  ,spain was1 as far as 
the records testify1 the earliest and   
most adept pupil of ,italy in the art of
 lacemaking1 though1 as in ,italy1 at   
the beginning the work was confined in  
the ,iberian peninsula to the inmates of
 the convents4 ,spain1 too1 achieved    
high distinction in this field1 its     
,point d',espagne being one of the most 
celebrated of all the ancient laces1    
even vying with the finest ,venetian    
point4 ,in those days1 as will be       
recalled1 the power of the ,church was  
absolute1 and the use of laces for daily
 wear was prohibited1 though on ,sundays
 and holidays it was greatly in evidence
 in the attire of those of high station4
  ,one of the most interesting facts    

concerning the development of lace has  
to do with the patterns produced in the 
various localities of ,europe4 ,in the  
beginning the number of designs was     
necessarily limited1 but as the industry
 developed and spread1 and as the       
workers became more expert and artistic1
 there was an uncontrollable impulse to 
break away from conventional designs and
 to evolve new patterns4 ,then1 too1    
there was something of the spirit of    
pride behind this movement--a sort of   
local patriotism1 if it may so be       
termed4 ,the ,belgian1 the ,spaniard and
 the ,frenchman were not content        
slavishly to imitate ,italian designs1  
and1 anxious to win a name for          
themselves1 set about to produce new    
effects that would immediately identify 
them with the place of their origin4    
,thus it was1 too1 that various cities  
and towns in ,italy1 ,france1 ,belgium1 
,spain and elsewhere sought to establish
 for themselves an individual product of
 great excellence that would give to the

 city or town prestige and renown in the
 then few commercial marts of the world4
 ,this explains the various names which 
were given to distinct #ab types of     
laces hundreds of years ago1 and which  
designations still obtain1 as1 for      
instance1 ,alencon1 ,valenciennes1      
,chantilly1 ,honiton1 ,arras1 ,bayeux1  
,genoa1 ,florence1 etc4  ,another fact  
worthy of record is that of all the     
almost numberless designs that have been
 given to the world since the birth of  
lace there have been some one or two    
characteristics that tell as plainly as 
though expressed in words that each one 
of these designs was made at some       
particular period of history4 ,it is    
well that this is so1 for it has enabled
 the historian to trace1 with more or   
less certainty1 the development of the  
industry4 ,in other words1 a lace expert
 is enabled to tell from the fabric not 
only in what country it was made1 but in
 what part of that country1 and also the
 approximate date4  ,in the             

self-sufficiency of the present age we  
are apt to regard with a sort of        
supercilious disdain any story          
reflecting upon the supremacy of our    
forebears in any of the arts or the     
sciences2 but that we cannot make1 in a 
commercial way1 such lace as was woven  
in the sixteenth and seventeenth        
centuries is beyond question4 ,in the   
first place1 time is lacking1 and if it 
must be confessed1 the great skill that 
comes only through years of constant    
practice is also lacking4  ,modern real 
lace is artistic1 even superior1 but    
compared with such few specimens as have
 come down to us of the work of the     
lacemakers of old1 its deficiency1      
particularly in the matter of the       
fineness of the execution and thread1 is
 at once apparent4 ,hand-made lace is   
to-day produced all over the world2     
commercially its production is confined 
to ,france1 ,belgium1 ,germany1 ,spain1 
,italy and ,england1 where large        
quantities are still produced4 ,france1 

however1 with that fostering care which 
she has bestowed upon her many other    
arts1 and with that keen appreciation of
 the beautiful that is so inherent in   
her people1 is far in the van in the    
matter of producing hand-made lace1     
though in respect to two or three types 
,belgium is in the front rank4 #ac      
,illustration3 ,real ,honiton4          
,illustration3 ,real ,florentine4  #ad  
,coming down to the question of         
machine-made lace1 it is necessary to   
observe at the outset that the same     
distinctions that exist between the     
genuine and the imitation do not obtain 
as applied to these fabrics4 ,in other  
words1 the knowledge that lace is a     
product of the frame rather than the    
fingers in no sense condemns it4 ,for to
 such a high plane has the mechanical   
production of lace been lifted that one 
is almost tempted to say that the       
products vie in beauty of design and    
perfection of finish with the lace      
produced by hand4 ,that there is warrant

 for this seeming exaggeration is borne 
out by the fact that not infrequently it
 is impossible for experts to tell the  
difference between two specimens of lace
 of the same design1 one made by hand   
and the other by machine4  ,what        
inventors have accomplished in this     
respect is truly marvelous4 ,in the     
beginning their efforts were not at all 
satisfactory1 and the history of        
machine-made lace abounds with pathetic 
instances of men who sought in vain to  
duplicate with fidelity1 by means of    
mechanical devices of hundreds of types 
and patterns1 the dextrous touch of the 
human hand4  ,w4 ,felkin1 in his history
 of lace manufacture1 says that lace net
 was first made by machinery in #agfh4  
,other authorities place the date as    
between #ageh and #agfj4 ,in #ahji      
bobbin net was invented1 and in #ahcg   
the ,jacquard system was applied to the 
bobbinet machine4  ,mrs4 ,b4 ,palliser1 
in ,the ,history of ,lace1 says of the  
invention of machinery for the          

production of lace that the credit is   
usually assigned to ,hammond1 a stocking
 framework knitter of ,nottingham1 who1 
examining one day the broad lace on his 
wife's cap1 thought he could apply his  
machine to the production of a similar  
article4 ,his attempt so far succeeded  
that1 by means of the stocking frame    
invented in the previous century1 he    
produced1 in #agfh1 not lace1 but a kind
 of knitting of running loops or        
stitches4 #ae  ,in #aggg ,else and      
,harvey introduced at ,nottingham the   
pin or point net machine1 so named      
because made on sharp pins or points4   
,point net was followed by various other
 stitches of a lacelike character1 but  
despite the progress made1 all efforts  
at producing a solid net were futile4   
,it was still nothing more than         
knitting1 a single thread passing from  
one end of the frame to the other1 and  
if a thread broke the work was          
unraveled4 ,this was overcome in a      
measure by gumming the threads1 giving  

the fabric a solidity and body not      
possible without resorting to some      
artificial method of this sort4  ,the   
great problem inspired the efforts of   
numberless inventors1 and many attempts 
were made to combine the mechanism used 
respectively by the knitter and the     
weaver1 and after many failures a       
machine was produced which made ,mechlin
 net4  ,there are few histories bearing 
upon the invention of labor-saving      
devices that are so replete with the    
records of failure as is the history of 
the attempt to produce a practical lace 
machine4 ,john ,heathcoat1 of           
,leicestershire1 ,england1 was the      
inventor of the machine for making      
bobbin net4 ,his patents were taken out 
in #ahji1 and to him must be accorded   
the credit of solving for the first time
 the problem that had vexed the minds of
 so many inventors and had depleted the 
purses of so many capitalists4  ,the    
bobbin net machine1 so named because the
 threads are wound upon bobbins1 first  

produced a net about an inch in width1  
afterward1 however1 producing it a yard 
wide4  ,it was the application of the   
celebrated ,jacquard attachment to the  
lace machine that has made possible the 
duplication of practically every pattern
 of lace made by hand4 ,the machine of  
,heathcoat was vastly improved by ,john 
,leavers1 also of ,nottingham1 and the  
types produced by him are still in use  
throughout ,england and ,france1 though1
 of course1 there are in these days a   
large number of different #af types of  
machines bearing different names1 but   
the principle of the ,leavers machine1  
more or less modified1 obtains in       
practically all of the devices4         
,therefore a description of the process 
of lacemaking by the ,leavers frame will
 serve as a description for all4  ,the  
number of threads brought into operation
 in this machine is regulated by the    
pattern to be produced4 ,the threads are
 of two sorts1 warp and bobbin threads4 
,upward of #i1jjj are sometimes used1   

sixty pieces of lace being made at once1
 each piece requiring #adh threads 7#ajj
 warps and #dh bobbin threads74 ,the    
supply of warp threads is held upon     
reels1 the bobbins carrying their own   
supply4 ,the warp threads are stretched 
perpendicularly and about wide enough   
apart to admit a silver quarter passing 
edgeways between them4 ,the bobbins are 
flattened in shape so as to pass        
conveniently between the warps4 ,each   
bobbin can contain about #abj yards of  
thread4 ,by most ingenious mechanism    
varying degrees of tension can be       
imparted to warp and bobbin threads as  
required4 ,the bobbins1 as they pass    
like pendulums between the warp threads1
 are made to oscillate1 and through this
 oscillation the threads twist          
themselves or become twisted with the   
warp threads1 as required by the pattern
 that is being produced4 ,as the        
twisting takes place1 combs compress the
 twistings1 making them more compact4   
,if the bobbin threads be made tight and

 the warp threads slack1 the latter will
 be twisted upon the former2 but if the 
warps are brought to a tension and the  
bobbin threads be slack1 then the latter
 will be twisted on the warps4 ,the     
combs are so regulated that they come   
clear away from the threads as soon as  
they have pressed them together1 and    
fall into position ready to perform     
their pressing operations again4 ,the   
contrivances for giving each thread a   
particular tension and movement at a    
certain time are connected with an      
adaptation of the ,jacquard system of   
pierced cards4 ,the lace machine is     
highly complicated1 much of its         
complexity being due to the mechanism by
 which the oscillating or lateral       
movements are produced4 ,expert workmen 
prepare the working drawings for the    
lace machine1 and also perform the more 
important duties in its operation1 but a
 large part of the work is carried on by
 women and girls4  #ag  ,illustration3  
,real ,point ,applique4  #ah ,one of the

 most interesting developments of the   
lace industry has been the gradual      
evolution from the work of the hand     
toilers to the utilization of complex   
machinery4 ,in addition to the ,leavers 
machine1 which is referred to elsewhere 
in extenso1 the embroidery machine plays
 a very important part in the making of 
laces4 ,from #ahgj to #ahhj1 various    
efforts had been made to produce lace on
 the embroidery machine1 and it was     
during this decade that the first       
success was achieved in the making of   
,oriental or net laces in ,plauen4 ,this
 was the first actual production of lace
 from the embroidering machine1 and this
 sort of lace1 which still exists       
to-day1 is really an embroidery on a    
net1 although usually designated as     
lace4 ,a few years later a discovery was
 made which effected a great change in  
the making of laces on the embroidery   
machine4 ,this was the principle of     
embroidering on a material which was    
afterward removed by a chemical process4

 ,the first article produced was called 
,guipure de ,genes1 and was at that time
 patented1 but the patent was held to be
 invalid1 and a few years afterward this
 article was generally produced both in 
,st4 ,gall1 where it first appeared1 and
 in ,plauen4 ,by this method of         
manufacture are produced to-day all of  
the imitation guipure laces1 such as    
,point de ,venise1 ,rose ,point1 ,point 
de ,genes1 etc4 #ai  ,illustration3     
,real ,chantilly4  ,illustration3 ,real 
,spanish4  #bj  ,the embroidering       
machine in use at the present day is    
constructed entirely of iron1 measuring 
from #ae to #bj feet long1 #i feet high1
 #i feet wide and weighs about #c1hjj   
pounds4 ,it can be operated by hand or  
by power4 ,the method of embroidering is
 exceedingly simple4 ,the cloth1 usually
 somewhat over #d-a_/b yards long1 is   
tightly stretched in an upright position
 in the center of the machine1 each end 
of the suspended strip being held firmly
 by means of stout hooks4 ,the needles  

7from #aej to #cjj in number1 according 
to the sort of work to be done7 are     
arranged horizontally in a framework in 
a straight1 level row1 all pointing     
toward the cloth and extending from end 
to end of same4 ,the needles are        
supplied with threads about one yard in 
length1 which are fastened by means of a
 peculiar knot to the eye1 the latter   
being in the middle of the needle       
instead of at the end4 ,in producing any
 given stitch in the pattern to be      
worked1 the long row of needles all move
 forward at once at the will of the     
operator1 and thus duplicate the stitch 
in every pattern or section along the   
entire #d-a_/b yards of cloth suspended 
in the machine4 ,as may be readily      
understood1 the machine in this manner  
completes #d-a_/b yards of embroidery in
 the same time it would take a woman    
with a needle to finish a single        
pattern4 ,when one row is completed the 
strip of cloth is raised and another row
 is made1 and so on until it is         

necessary to put in another length of   
cambric4 ,this machine is capable of    
making patterns from the very narrow up 
to the full width of the cloth4  ,what  
is known as the ,schiffli1 or power     
machine1 is very similar to the         
hand-embroidering device1 being an      
improvement on the latter and worked    
with a shuttle in addition to the       
needles4 ,its capacity is nearly eight  
times greater1 or from #ae1jjj to       
#ah1jjj stitches per day1 against #b1jjj
 to #c1jjj on the hand machine4 ,to     
offset this advantage1 however1 the     
,schiffli machine is much more          
expensive1 and is of delicate and       
complicated construction1 easily got out
 of order and costly to repair4 ,until a
 comparatively recent date the ,schiffli
 was not considered as a competitor of  
the hand machine1 its work being        
inferior in quality and confined to     
simple patterns4 ,at present1 however1  
it is generally conceded that the goods 
produced by it not only compete with the

 hand-machine products1 but are already 
superseding the latter to some extent4  
,it is predicted that the ,schiffli     
machine1 operated by power1 will        
ultimately supply all the embroidery in 
the low and medium grades4 #ba  ,the    
variety and adaptability of the designs 
which both of these machines are capable
 of producing are endless1 and at the   
same time comparatively inexpensive4 ,it
 is this latter fact which accounts for 
the great advantage of the embroidering 
machine over the lace machine4 ,the     
preparing and setting of a design for a 
lace machine is very expensive1 and the 
great cost compels the manufacturer of  
machine lace to turn out large          
quantities of one set pattern in order  
to get a return from his investment4    
,about the beginning of the nineteenth  
century1 lace machines were first       
introduced into ,france from            
,nottingham1 at ,boulogne-sur-mer1 where
 the industry remained for a few years  
and then moved to ,calais4 ,there this  

industry has developed and increased to 
such proportions that ,calais is now the
 principal city for the production of   
fine laces of all kinds1 and practically
 leads ,nottingham in creating novelties
 and new and original effects4 ,shortly 
after the ,franco-,prussian war the     
industry found a foothold in ,caudry1 in
 the north of ,france1 where it has also
 developed to quite large proportions1  
and shares to-day a large part of the   
trade which has resulted from the       
founding of the parent industry in      
,calais4 ,the kind of lace produced in  
,caudry is generally of a cheaper       
character than that produced in ,calais4
  ,in ,lyons1 too1 there has been       
established for many years the industry 
of making laces and nettings by         
mechanical processes4 ,this is still a  
very large industry1 and about twenty   
years ago there was a large trade done  
with ,america in the manufacture of     
laces in vogue at that time1 which were 
the imitation of the real ,spanish1     

called ,blonde ,grenade4 ,there are     
still made in ,lyons to-day various     
imitations of fine laces1 which in a    
general way are of a different quality  
to the laces made at ,calais or ,caudry1
 and ,lyons enjoys a reputation in      
regard to the character of the laces it 
produces which is unique in the trade4  
,about the year #ahij1 a ,frenchman     
invented a machine similar in #bb       
principle to the knitting machine1 which
 reproduces with absolute fidelity the  
work of the bobbins in making pillow    
laces4 ,through this invention he was   
able to imitate such hand-made laces as 
,torchons1 ,medicis1 etc41 so exactly   
that experts could not detect the       
difference4 ,in fact1 it is the general 
testimony of men associated with laces  
for years1 that the work of this machine
 in a great many of its aspects is one  
of the most important contributions of  
the mechanical arts in the production of
 lace4  ,through the importation of     
foreign machines and foreign workmen1   

various attempts have been made in the  
,united ,states to establish the        
manufacture of lace4 ,at the present    
writing it is impossible to state with  
any definiteness what the result will   
be1 as the experiment has been of only a
 few years' duration1 and in the very   
nature of things is at this date of a   
tentative character4  ,in order that the
 reader may be able to distinguish the  
various types of hand and machine made  
laces1 we append herewith a glossary1   
defining as concisely as possible the   
characteristics that indicate not only  
the manifold makes of laces1 but what   
may be called the various sub-divisions4
 ,these definitions are set forth1 the  
writer hopes1 in terms that will enable 
the reader to understand what each one  
of the various names means1 both as     
applied commercially and descriptively4 
#bc  ,illustration3 ,real ,point ,gaze4 
,illustration3 ,imitation ,duchesse4    
#bd  ,,characteristics ,,of ,,the       
,,different ,,types ,,of ,,lace4        

,,alencon4--,a fine1 needle-point lace1 
so called from ,alencon1 a ,french city1
 in which its manufacture was first     
begun4 ,it is the only ,french lace not 
made upon the pillow1 the work being    
done entirely by hand1 with a fine      
needle1 upon a parchment pattern in     
small pieces4 ,the pieces are afterward 
united by invisible seams4 ,there are   
usually twelve processes1 including the 
design employed in the production of a  
piece of this kind of lace1 and each of 
these processes is executed by a special
 workwoman2 but in #ahee1 at ,bayeux1 in
 ,france1 a departure was made from the 
old custom of assigning a special branch
 of the work to each lacemaker1 and the 
fabric was made through all its         
processes by one worker4  ,the design is
 engraved upon a copper plate and then  
printed off upon pieces of green        
parchment of a specified length4 ,after 
the pattern is pricked upon the         
parchment1 which is stitched to a piece 
of coarse linen folded double1 the      

pattern is then formed in outline by    
guiding two flat threads along the edge 
by the thumb of the left hand1 and1 in  
order to fix it1 minute stitches are    
made with another thread and needle     
through the holes of the parchment4     
,after the outline is finished it is    
given to another worker to make the     
ground1 which is chiefly of two kinds3  
bride1 consisting of uniting threads    
which serve to join together the flowers
 of the lace1 and reseau1 which is      
worked backward and forward from the    
footing to the picot4 ,there was also   
another ground called ,argentella1      
consisting of buttonhole-stitched       
skeleton hexagons4  ,in making the      
flowers of ,alencon point1 the          
workwoman1 using a needle and fine      
thread1 makes the buttonhole-stitch from
 left to right1 and1 when she has       
reached the end of the flower1 throws   
back the thread from the point of       
departure and works again from left to  
right #be along the thread4 ,as a       

result1 the work is characterized by a  
closeness1 firmness and evenness not    
equaled in any other point lace4  ,when 
the work is completed the threads which 
bind lace1 linen and parchment together 
are carefully cut1 and the difficult    
task of uniting the pieces together     
remains to be done4 ,this is            
accomplished by means of what is called 
the assemblage stitch1 instead of the   
point de raccroc1 where the pieces are  
united by a fresh row of stitches4      
,another way of uniting the pieces1     
which is used at ,alencon1 is by a seam 
which follows as far as possible the    
outlines of the pattern so as to be     
invisible4 ,a steel instrument1 called a
 picot1 is then passed into each flower 
so as to give it a more finished        
appearance4  ,alencon point is of a     
durability which no other lace can      
rival4 ,a peculiarity in its manufacture
 is1 that it is the only lace in which  
horsehair is inserted along the edge to 
give increased strength to the          

cordonnet1 a practice originating in the
 necessity of making the point stand up 
when the tall headdresses formerly worn 
by women were exposed to the wind4      
,formerly ,alencon point1               
notwithstanding its beauty of           
construction1 could not vie with        
,brussels lace as regards the excellence
 of floral design1 but this inferiority 
has now been removed by the production  
of exquisite copies of natural flowers1 
mingled with grasses and ferns4 ,alencon
 point is now made not only at the seat 
of its original manufacture1 but at     
,bayeux1 at ,burano1 near ,venice1 and  
at ,brussels4  ,bayeux can boast of one 
of the finest examples of this lace ever
 made4 ,it was exhibited in #ahfg1 and  
consisted of a dress of two flounces1 in
 which the pattern1 flowers and foliage 
were most harmoniously wrought and      
relieved by shaded tints1 which give to 
the lace the relief of a picture4 ,the  
price of the dress was #ag1jjj1 and it  
took forty women seven years to finish  

it4  ,the city of ,alencon had on       
exhibition at ,paris1 in #ahii1 a piece 
of #bf lace of exquisite description1   
that had taken #af1ejj working days to  
complete4  ,,allover4--,lace of any kind
 which is eighteen inches or more in    
width1 and used for yokes1 flouncings   
and entire costumes4  ,,antique4--,a    
pillow lace1 hand-made from heavy linen 
thread1 and characterized by an         
exceedingly open1 coarse1 square mesh4  
,it is mainly used for curtains1 bed    
sets and draperies4  ,,antwerp4--,a     
pillow lace made at ,antwerp1 resembling
 early ,alencon1 and whose chief        
characteristic is the representation of 
a pot or vase of flowers with which it  
is always decorated4 ,the pot or vase   
varies much in size and details4 ,it is 
usually grounded with a coarse ,fond    
,champ4  ,,application4--,a lace made by
 sewing flowers or sprigs1 which may be 
either needle-point or bobbin-made1 upon
 a bobbin-lace ground4 ,one variety of  
,brussels lace affords the best example 

of ,application4  ,,applique4--,the same
 as ,application lace4  ,,argentan4--,a 
needle-point lace1 usually considered   
indistinguishable from ,alencon1 but    
which is different in some respects1 its
 marked peculiarity being that the      
reseau ground is not made of single     
threads only1 but the sides of each mesh
 are worked over with the buttonhole    
stitch4 ,argentan is often distinguished
 from ,alencon lace by a larger and more
 striking pattern1 and in some instances
 it is especially known by its          
hexagonally arranged brides4 ,it is     
called after ,argentan1 a town near     
,alencon1 and the lace was made there   
under the same direction4  ,,arras4--,a 
white pillow lace1 so called from       
,arras1 in ,france1 the city of its     
original manufacture4 ,it is simple and 
almost uniform in design1 very strong   
and firm to the touch1 and comparatively
 cheap in price4 ,it is made on a lisle 
ground4 ,the older and finer patterns of
 ,arras lace reached their climax of    

excellence during the first ,empire1    
between #ahjd and #ahab1 but since then 
they have gone out of fashion4 #bg      
,illustration3 ,real ,duchesse4         
,illustration3 ,real ,irish ,crochet4   
#bh  ,,aurillac4--,a pillow or bobbin   
lace1 made at ,aurillac1 in ,france4 ,in
 the early period of its manufacture it 
was a close-woven fabric1 resembling the
 guipure of ,genoa and ,flanders1 but   
later it resembled ,english point4 ,the 
laces of ,aurillac ended with the       
,revolution4  ,,auvergne4--,a pillow    
lace made at the ,french city of        
,auvergne and the surrounding district4 
,,ave ,,maria4--,a narrow lace used for 
edging4 7,see ,dieppe lace47            
,,baby4--,a narrow lace used for edging1
 and made principally in the ,english   
counties of ,bedfordshire1              
,buckinghamshire and ,northamptonshire4 
,these laces are ordinarily of simple   
design and specially employed in        
adorning infants' caps4 ,though this    
fashion went out in ,great ,britain1 the

 ladies of ,america held to the trimmed 
infants' caps until the breaking out of 
the ,civil ,war1 and up to that date    
large quantities of this lace were      
exported to ,america4  ,,basket4--,a    
lace so woven or plaited as to resemble 
basket-work4 ,it is mentioned in        
inventories of #aehj4  ,,bayeux4--,there
 are two descriptions of lace known by  
this name3 7a7 ,a modern pillow lace1   
made at ,bayeux1 in ,normandy1          
particularly the variety made in        
imitation of ,rose point2 7b7 ,a black  
silk lace1 popular because made in      
unusually large pieces1 as for shawls1  
fichus1 etc4  ,,bisette4--,a narrow1    
coarse-thread pillow lace of three      
qualities1 formerly made in the suburbs 
of ,paris by the peasant women1         
principally for their own use4 ,the name
 is now used to signify narrow bordering
 lace of small value4  ,,bobbin4--,lace 
made on a pillow1 stuffed so as to form 
a cushion1 without the use of a needle4 
,a stiff piece of parchment is fixed on 

the pillow1 and after holes are pricked 
through the parchment so as to form the 
pattern small pins are stuck through    
these holes into the pillow4 ,the       
threads with which the lace is formed   
are wound upon bobbins--small1 round    
pieces of wood about the size of a      
pencil1 having round their upper ends a 
deep groove1 so formed as to reduce the 
bobbin to a thin neck1 on which the     
thread is wound1 a separate bobbin being
 used for each thread4 ,the ground of   
the lace is formed by the twisting and  
crossing of these threads4 ,the pattern 
or figure1 technically called gimp1 is  
made by interweaving a thread much      
thicker than that forming the           
groundwork1 according to the design     
pricked out on the parchment4 ,this     
manner of using the pillow in lacemaking
 has remained practically the same      
during more than three centuries4 #bi   
,illustration3 ,real ,irish ,applique4  
,illustration3 ,imitation ,point de     
,venise4  #cj  ,,blonde4--,a lace       

so-called because1 being made from raw  
silk1 it was fair1 not white in color4  
,blonde lace has a reseau of the ,lille 
type1 made of fine twisted silk1 the    
toile being worked entirely with a      
broad1 flat strand1 producing a very    
attractive glistening effect4 ,it was   
made at ,chantilly1 in ,france4 ,at the 
,revolution the demand for this fabric  
ceased1 as lacemakers were commonly     
looked upon as royal proteges4 ,during  
the ,first ,empire1 however1 blonde     
became fashionable again1 and since that
 time the popularity of black silk      
blonde for ,spanish mantillas alone has 
kept the trade in a flourishing         
condition4 ,the manufacture is not      
confined to any one town1 but is carried
 on throughout the province of          
,calvados1 in ,normandy1 and is also    
made in ,spain4  ,,bobbinet4--,a variety
 of ,application lace1 in which the     
pattern is applied upon a ground of     
bobbinet or tulle4  ,,bone ,,point4--,a 
lace without a regular mesh ground4     

,,border4--,lace made in long1 narrow   
pieces1 with a footing on one side1 the 
other edge being ordinarily ,van ,dyked 
or purled4 ,during the larger part of   
the seventeenth century a constant      
supply of this lace was made at ,genoa4 
,it was commonly called ,collar lace1   
from the use to which it was put4 ,in   
the pictures of ,rubens and ,van ,dyke  
it is frequently represented as trimming
 the broad falling linen collars1 both  
of men and elderly women4 ,it can be    
distinguished from ,flemish lace1 also  
employed in the same way1 by its greater
 boldness of design4 #ca ,younger women 
also made use of it as trimming for the 
shoulders of their decollete dresses1   
and also for sleeves1 aprons1 etc4      
,,bride4--,lace whose ground is wholly  
composed of brides or bars1 without a   
reseau or net4  ,,brussels4--,a         
celebrated lace1 made at and near       
,brussels1 in ,belgium2 more            
particularly1 a fine variety of the lace
 made there whose pattern1 as compared  

with ,alencon1 has less relief1 and     
whose fine net ground is without picots1
 the knots or thorns which often        
decorate brides1 and also the edge of   
the pattern4 ,brussels lace1 whose      
history is one of the most interesting  
in the progress of this industry1 is now
 often regarded as an application lace1 
by reason of the fact that the          
laceworkers of that city1 after         
machine-made net had been perfected by  
an ,english invention in #ahaj1 adopted 
the plan of appliqueing their           
pillow-made patterns on that material4  
,lace so appliqued can be recognized as 
distinct from that made with the vrai   
reseau1 or true network ground1 by the  
fact that the net ground1 though        
sometimes removed1 is often seen to pass
 behind the lace pattern1 and also by   
the character of the network4           
,machine-made net is composed of        
diamond-shaped meshes1 and is made with 
two threads only1 tightly twisted and   
crossed1 not plaited1 at their junction1

 and is quite unlike the ,brussels      
pillow reseau4 ,other peculiarities by  
which ,brussels lace may be recognized  
are3 7a7 ,it is not made in one piece on
 the pillow1 but the pattern is first   
made by itself1 and the reseau ground is
 worked in around it afterward4 7b7 ,the
 reseau ground1 when magnified under a  
glass1 has a mesh of hexagonal form1 of 
which two sides are made of four threads
 plaited four times1 and four sides of  
two threads twisted twice4 7c7 ,brussels
 pillow lace has two sorts of toile1 or 
substance of the pattern as contrasted  
with the groundwork2 one1 the usual     
woven texture1 resembling that of a     
piece of cambric2 the other1 a more open
 arrangement of open threads1 having    
very much the appearance of #cb the     
,fond ,champ reseau4 ,it remains to be  
said1 in spite of the fact that the     
above-mentioned characteristics may     
always be distinguished1 that the       
,brussels pillow lace of the present day
 differs materially from the earlier    

forms1 having gone through many changes 
and style in pattern and make4 ,among   
these are ,point d',angleterre1 called  
such for mistaken reasons only1 as it is
 not point lace nor made in ,england2   
and ,duchesse1 a name of comparatively  
recent date1 though the style itself is 
of earlier origin1 and was called       
,guipure facon ,angleterre4 ,as regards 
,brussels needle-point1 the earliest    
made closely resembles that of ,alencon1
 though not quite so close and firm4    
,there were also other differences1 both
 the cordonnet and the reseau being     
unlike those of ,alencon4 ,from the     
beginning of the nineteenth century     
,brussels needle-point underwent changes
 analogous to those of pillow lace2 it  
became ,point ,applique1 in which the   
needle-lace pattern1 instead of having a
 true net ground1 was appliqued on the  
machine-made net4 ,but in recent years  
it has been noted that a return to the  
character of the earlier and more       
beautiful ,brussels needle-point is     

being sought1 the chief evidence of it  
being the exquisite ,point ,gaze1 made  
entirely with the needle and grounded   
with its own reseau4  ,,buckingham4--,a 
lace originally made in the county of   
,buckingham1 ,england1 and of two kinds3
 7a7 ,buckingham trolley lace1 whose    
pattern is outlined with a thicker      
thread1 or a flat1 narrow border1 made  
up of several such threads4 ,the ground 
is usually a double ground1 showing     
hexagonal and triangular meshes2 7b7 ,a 
lace with a point ground1 with the      
pattern outlined with thicker threads1  
these threads being weighted by bobbins 
larger and heavier than the rest4 ,in   
general character and design these laces
 strongly resemble those manufactured at
 ,lille4  ,,cadiz4--,a variety of       
needle-point ,brussels lace4 #cc        
,illustration3 ,imitation ,marquise4    
,illustration3 ,real ,point             
d',angleterre4  #cd  ,,carnival4--,a    
variety of reticella lace made in       
,italy1 ,spain and ,france during the   

sixteenth century4                      
,,cartisane4--,guipure or passement1    
made with cartisane1 which is vellum or 
parchment in thin strips or small rolls1
 covered with silk1 gold thread or      
similar material4  ,,chain4--,a lace of 
the seventeenth century1 consisting of a
 braid or passement so worked as to     
resemble chain links4 ,it was made of   
colored silk1 and also of gold and      
silver thread4  ,,chantilly4--,one of   
the blonde laces1 of the sort           
recognizable by their ,alencon reseau   
ground and the flowers in light or      
openwork instead of solid4 ,it is made  
both in white and black silk4 ,black    
,chantilly lace has always been made of 
silk1 but a grenadine1 not a lustrous   
silk4 ,the pattern is outlined with a   
cordonnet of a flat1 untwisted silk     
strand4 ,during the seventeenth century 
the ,duchesse of ,longueville           
established the manufacture of silk lace
 at ,chantilly and its neighborhood1 and
 as ,paris was near and the demand of   

royalty for this lace increased it      
became very popular4 ,at the time of the
 ,revolution the prosperity of the      
industry was ruined1 and many of the    
lacemakers were sent to the guillotine4 
,during the ascendancy of the first     
,napoleon1 the manufacture of ,chantilly
 again became flourishing4 ,since then  
the industry has been driven away from  
that town on account of the higher labor
 costs resulting from the nearness of   
,chantilly to ,paris1 and the           
lacemakers1 unable to meet this         
increased cost1 retired to ,gisors1     
where half a century ago there were     
between #h1jjj and #aj1jjj lacemakers4  
,the supremacy of lacemaking formerly   
enjoyed by ,chantilly has now been      
transferred to ,calvados1 ,caen1 ,bayeux
 and ,grammont4 ,the widely-known       
,chantilly shawls are made at ,bayeux1  
and also at ,grammont4  ,,chenille4--,a 
,french lace1 made in the eighteenth    
century1 so called because the patterns 
were outlined with fine white chenille4 

,the ground #ce was made of silk in     
honeycomb reseau1 and the patterns were 
geometrical and filled with thick       
stitches4  ,,cluny4--,a kind of net lace
 with a square net background in which  
the stitch is darned4 ,it is so called  
from the famous museum of antiquities in
 the ,hotel ,cluny1 at ,paris1 and also 
because the lace was supposed to have a 
medieval appearance4 ,the patterns used 
are generally of an antique and quaint  
description1 mostly of birds1 animals   
and flowers1 and in the existing        
manufacture the old traditions are      
fairly well preserved4 ,sometimes a     
glazed thread is introduced in the      
pattern as an outline4 ,cluny is a      
plaited lace1 somewhat similar to the   
,genoese and ,maltese laces1 and is made
 in silk1 linen or cotton4              
,,cordover4--,a kind of filling used in 
the pattern of ancient and modern point 
lace4  ,,cork4--,a name formerly used   
for ,irish lace in general1 when the    
manufacture of ,irish lace was          

principally confined to the neighborhood
 of ,cork4  ,,craponne4--,a kind of     
stout thread guipure lace1 of cheap     
price and inferior make1 used for       
furniture4  ,,cretan4--,a name given to 
an old lace1 ordinarily made of colored 
material1 whether silk or linen1 and    
sometimes embroidered with the needle   
after the lace was complete4            
,,crewel4--,a kind of edging made of    
crewel or worsted thread1 intended as a 
border or binding for garments4         
,,crochet4--,lace which is made with a  
crochet hook1 or whose pattern is so    
made and then appliqued on a bobbin or  
machine-made net4 ,it is similar to     
needle-point lace1 although not equal in
 fineness to the best examples of the   
latter4  ,,crown4--,a lace whose pattern
 was worked on a succession of crowns1  
sometimes intermixed with acorns and    
roses4 ,it was made first in the reign  
of ,queen ,elizabeth4 ,a relic of this  
lace may still be found #cf in the faux 
galon1 sold for the decoration of fancy 

dresses and theatrical purposes4        
,,dalecarlian4--,lace made for their own
 use by the peasants of ,dalecarlia1 a  
province of ,sweden4 ,its patterns are  
ancient and traditional4 ,it is a coarse
 guipure lace1 made of unbleached       
thread4  ,,damascene4--,an imitation of 
,honiton lace1 made by joining lace     
sprigs and lace braid with corded bars4 
,it differs from modern point lace in   
that it has real ,honiton sprigs1 and is
 without needlework fillings4  ,,darned 
,,lace4--,a general name for lace upon a
 net ground1 upon which the pattern is  
appliqued in needlework4 ,the different 
laces of this kind are described under  
,filet ,brode1 ,guipure d',art and      
,spiderwork4  ,,devonshire4--,lace made 
in ,devonshire1 ,england1 and more      
frequently designated as ,honiton4 7,see
 ,honiton47 ,formerly practically the   
whole female population of ,devonshire  
were employed in lacemaking1 and during 
the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries 
,belgian1 ,french and ,spanish laces    

were imitated in that country most      
successfully1 as were also ,venetian and
 ,spanish needle-point1 ,maltese1 ,greek
 and ,genoese laces4 ,during the last   
century this variety in lacemaking has  
died out in ,devonshire1 and now only   
,honiton is made4  ,,diamond4--,a lace  
made with a stitch either worked as open
 or close diamonds1 and used in modern  
point and in ancient needle-points4     
,,dieppe4--,a fine point lace made at   
,dieppe1 in ,france1 resembling         
,valenciennes1 and made with three      
threads instead of four4 ,there were    
several kinds of lace made at ,dieppe in
 the seventeenth and eighteenth         
centuries1 including ,brussels1         
,mechlin1 ,point de ,paris and          
,valenciennes1 but the true ,dieppe     
point was eventually restricted to two  
kinds1 the narrow being called the ,ave 
,maria and ,poussin1 the wider and      
double grounded1 the ,dentelle a la     
,vierge4 ,dieppe and ,havre were        
formerly the two great lace centers of  

,normandy1 manufacturing in those cities
 having antedated that at ,alencon1 but 
the prosperity of the lace industry in  
both these cities was nearly destroyed  
at the ,revolution1 and though for a    
time encouraged under the restored      
,bourbons1 and patronized by ,napoleon  
,,iii1 machine-made laces have          
practically driven the old ,dieppe point
 out of the market4 #cg  ,illustration3 
,real ,torchon4  ,illustration3         
,imitation ,valenciennes4  #ch          
,,dresden ,,point4--,a fine drawn lace1 
embroidered with the needle and made in 
,dresden during the latter part of the  
seventeenth and the whole of the        
eighteenth century4 ,it was an imitation
 of an ,italian point lace1 in which a  
piece of linen was converted into lace  
by some of its threads being drawn away1
 some retained to form a pattern1 and   
others worked together to form square   
meshes4 ,the manufacture of ,dresden    
point declined1 and now laces of many   
kinds are made there1 notably an        

imitation of old ,brussels4             
,,duchesse4--,a fine pillow lace1 a     
variety originally made in ,belgium     
resembling ,honiton guipure lace in     
design and workmanship1 but worked with 
a finer thread and containing a greater 
amount of raised or relief work4 ,the   
leaves1 flowers and sprays formed are   
larger and of bolder design4 ,the       
stitches and manner of working in       
,honiton and ,duchesse are alike4       
,,dunkirk4--,a pillow lace made with a  
flat thread1 and whose manufacture was  
carried on in the districts around      
,dunkirk1 a ,french seaport1 in the     
seventeenth century4 ,the best known    
kind was an imitation of ,mechlin lace4 
,,dutch4--,a coarse1 strong lace1 made  
with a thick ground1 and of plain and   
heavy design4 ,it is a kind of cheap    
,valenciennes4 ,dutch lace is inferior  
in design and workmanship to those of   
,france and ,belgium4  ,,english        
,,point4--7a7 ,a fine pillow lace made  
in the eighteenth century1 generally    

considered to be of ,flemish origin and 
manufacture1 #ci and mistakenly called  
,point d',angleterre1 as it was neither 
point lace nor made in ,england4 ,some  
writers1 however1 assert its ,english   
origin4 ,owing to the protection        
formerly given by law to ,english laces1
 large quantities of ,belgium laces are 
believed to have been smuggled into     
,england under the name of ,point       
d',angleterre1 so as to evade the       
customs duties4 7b7 ,at the present day 
the finest quality of ,brussels lace1 in
 which needle-point sprigs are applied  
to ,brussels bobbin-ground4 7,see       
,application lace1 also ,point          
d',angleterre47  ,,escurial4--,a modern 
silk lace1 made in imitation of ,rose   
point4 ,the patterns are outlined with a
 lustrous thread or cord4  ,,fayal4--,a 
delicately made and costly lace1        
hand-made by the women of the ,island of
 ,fayal1 one of the ,azores1 off the    
western ,spanish coast4 ,the thread used
 in making this lace is spun from the   

fiber of the leaves of the aloe1 a plant
 resembling somewhat the century plant4 
,great skill is necessary in the        
manufacture1 which is restricted to a   
comparatively few women of the island1  
who have been trained to this work from 
childhood4 ,the lace is marketed in     
,france1 chiefly in ,paris1 at a very   
high price1 and it is very difficult for
 outside purchasers to buy it at any    
cost4 ,the patterns are extremely       
elegant and original in design4         
,notwithstanding the delicacy of this   
fabric1 it is remarkably durable4       
,,fedora4--,see ,point ,applique4       
,,false ,,valenciennes4--7a7 ,lace      
resembling ,valenciennes in surface and 
in pattern1 but without the true        
,valenciennes net ground1 7b7 ,a term   
for ,valenciennes lace made in ,belgium4
  ,,flat ,,point4--,lace made without   
any raised-work or work in relief from  
raised points4  ,,flemish ,,point4--,a  
needle-point guipure lace made in       
,flanders4  ,,footing4--,a narrow lace  

which is used to keep the stitches of   
the #dj ground firm and to sew the lace 
to the garment upon which it is to be   
worn4 ,sometimes the footing is worked  
with the rest of the design4 ,it is used
 also in making lace handkerchiefs and  
for quilling effects4  ,,genoa4--,a name
 originally given to the gold and silver
 laces for which ,genoa was famed in the
 sixteenth and seventeenth centuries1   
but now applied to lace made from the   
fiber of the aloe plant1 and also to    
,macrame lace4  ,,gold4--,lace made of  
warp threads or cords of silk1 or silk  
and cotton combined1 with thin gold or  
silver gilt bands passing around it4 ,it
 was anciently made of gold or silver   
gilt wire4 ,it is now used chiefly to   
decorate uniforms1 liveries and some    
church costumes1 and occasionally for   
millinery4 ,the metal is drawn through a
 wire1 and1 after being flattened       
between steel rollers1 several strands  
of the flattened wire are passed around 
the silk simultaneously by means of a   

complex machine having a wheel and iron 
bobbins4 ,the history of gold lace is   
interesting1 as illustrating the oldest 
form of the lacemaker's art4 ,from the  
days of ,egypt and ,rome down to        
medieval ,venice1 ,italy and ,spain1    
gold and silver gilt wire were used in  
making this kind of lace4 ,the ,jews in 
,spain were accomplished workers in this
 art1 and in ,sweden and ,russia gold   
lace was the first lace made4 ,in       
,france gold lacemaking was a prosperous
 manufacture at ,aurrillac and ,arras1  
at which latter place it flourished up  
to the end of the eighteenth century4   
,gold lace was imported into ,england at
 an early date1 and ,king ,james ,i     
established a monopoly in it4 ,its      
importation was prohibited by ,queen    
,anne1 on account of the extravagant    
uses of ornamentation to which it was   
put1 and it was also prohibited in the  
reign of ,george ,,ii1 to correct the   
prevalent taste for the foreign         
manufactured lace4 ,the attempt was     

unsuccessful1 for we are told that      
smuggling greatly increased4 ,it became 
a war to the knife between the revenue  
officer and society at large1 all       
classes combined1 town ladies of high   
degree1 with waiting-maids1 and the     
common sailor1 to avoid the obnoxious   
duties and cheat the government4 #da    
,illustration3 ,real ,mechlin4          
,illustration3 ,real ,point de ,paris4  
#db  ,,grammont4--,grammont lace1 so    
called from the town of ,grammont1 in   
,belgium1 where it was originally       
manufactured1 is of two kinds3 7a7 ,a   
cheap1 white pillow lace4 7b7 ,a black  
silk lace1 resembling the ,chantilly    
blondes4 ,these laces are made for      
flounces and shawls1 and were used both 
in ,america and ,europe4 ,as compared   
with ,chantilly1 the ground is coarser  
and the patterns are not so clear-cut   
and elegant as the real ,chantilly4     
,,gueuse4--,a thread pillow lace made in
 ,france during the eighteenth century4 
,the ground of this lace was reseau1 and

 the toile was worked with a thicker    
thread than the ground4 ,it was formerly
 an article of extensive consumption in 
,france1 but1 after the beginning of the
 nineteenth century1 it was little used1
 except by the poorer classes4 ,it was  
formerly called ,beggars' lace4         
,,guipure4--,it was originally a kind of
 lace or passement made of cartisane and
 twisted silk4 ,the name was afterward  
applied to heavy lace made with thin    
wires whipped around the silk1 and with 
cotton thread4 ,the word guipure is no  
longer commonly used to denote such work
 as this1 but has become a term of      
variable designation1 and it is so      
extensively applied that it is difficult
 to give a limit to its meaning4 ,it may
 be used to define a lace where the     
flowers are either joined by brides1 or 
large coarse stitches1 or lace that has 
no ground4 ,the modern ,honiton and     
,maltese are guipures1 and so is        
,venetian point4 ,but as the word has   
also been applied to large1 flowing     

pattern laces1 worked with coarse net   
grounds1 it is impossible to lay down   
any hard and fast rule about it4        
,,henriques4--,a fine stitch or point1  
used both in early and modern           
needle-point work4  #dc  ,illustration3 
,real ,arabian4  ,illustration3 ,machine
 ,irish ,crochet4  #dd ,,hollie         
,,point4--,a needle-point lace said to  
have been originally called holy point1 
on account of its uses4 ,it was popular 
in the middle ages for church           
decoration1 but was adapted to different
 purposes in the seventeenth and        
eighteenth centuries1 and various makes 
of lace have since been called by this  
name4  ,,honiton4--,a pillow lace       
originally made at ,honiton1            
,devonshire1 ,england1 and celebrated   
for the beauty of its figures and       
sprigs4 ,the manufacture is still       
carried on at that town1 where there is 
a lace school1 but a similar lace is    
made in the leading ,continental centers
 of the industry4  7a7 ,honiton         

,application is made by working the     
pattern parts on the lace pillow and    
securing them to a net ground1          
separately made4 ,at present it is      
customary to use machine-made net upon  
which hand-made sprays are sewn4  7b7   
,honiton guipure1 which in common       
acceptation passes as ,honiton lace1 is 
distinguished by its large flower       
patterns upon a very open ground1 the   
sprays being united by brides or bars4  
,honiton braid is a narrow1 machine-made
 fabric1 the variety in most general use
 being composed of a series of          
oval-shaped figures united by narrow    
bars4 ,it is of different widths1 in    
linen1 cotton and silk1 and is much used
 in the manufacture of handkerchiefs1   
collars1 and some varieties of lace4    
,the history of ,honiton lace is more   
than ordinarily interesting1 partly by  
reason of the doubt as to whether it    
really was a lace of ,english invention1
 or brought by the ,flemish workmen to  
,england4 ,some writers assert the      

former1 but the stronger probability is 
that the art was brought from ,flanders 
by ,protestant immigrants1 who fled from
 persecution4 ,whichever theory is held1
 the development of the industry at     
,honiton1 and its close resemblance to  
other lacemaking processes in ,belgium1 
,holland and ,france1 afford an         
excellent illustration of the           
interdependence of lacemakers in all    
countries upon each #de other as regards
 improvements resulting from new ideas4 
,honiton1 if it was brought from        
,flanders originally1 afterward repaid  
the debt by the beauty and celebrity of 
its designs1 which served as examples   
for ,continental lacemakers4 ,the very  
attempt to protect its manufacture in   
,england1 by imposing prohibitive       
duties1 only increased the desire to    
receive foreign suggestions1 and to     
smuggle foreign laces into ,england1    
while the ingenuity of ,continental     
manufacturers succeeded in copying the  
best ,honiton designs1 and even in      

improving upon them4 ,the ,english      
lacemakers at ,honiton were1 however1 at
 first unsuccessful in their attempts to
 rival the best laces of the ,continent1
 especially ,brussels4 ,although they   
had royal patronage1 and the whims and  
lavish expenditure of the court of      
,charles ,,ii were at their service1    
together with protective duties1 it was 
not until the reign of ,george ,,ii and 
,george ,,iii that ,english lace        
substantially improved4 ,this resulted  
from substituting the working of the    
true ,brussels net ground1 or vrai      
reseau1 for the old guipure bar ground4 
,the patterns were also formed of       
detached flower sprays1 and soon the    
,honiton product became almost          
unrivaled4 ,this superiority continued  
until about #ahbj1 when machine-made net
 was introduced1 and the old exquisite  
net ground1 made of the finest ,antwerp 
thread1 went out of fashion by reason of
 the commercial demand for an inferior  
product4 ,honiton guipure is now the    

chief form of lace made at that town4   
,as regards composition of the patterns 
of ,honiton laces1 as well as finish and
 delicacy of execution1 much improvement
 has been manifested during the last    
twenty years by reason of better schools
 for design1 and the rivalry promoted by
 international exhibitions4             
,,imitation4--,machine-made lace of any 
kind4 ,it often rivals real lace in     
fineness1 but necessarily its mechanical
 regularity of pattern detracts somewhat
 from the artistic character of the     
result4 ,constant improvement in        
processes1 however1 has in some laces   
made the #df resemblance to the         
hand-made product so close that even    
experts can hardly recognize the        
difference4 ,if it were asked how the   
imitation lace can be distinguished from
 needle-point1 the answer is that it is 
not made with looped stitches like the  
latter1 nor has it the effect of plaited
 threads1 as in pillow lace4 ,again1 the
 toile of machine-made lace is often    

found to be ribbed1 and this lace is    
very generally made of cotton instead of
 the linen thread with which old        
needle-point and pillow lace is made4   
,in the invention of substitutes for    
hand-made lace stitches ,switzerland has
 been the leader1 and by #ahfh hundreds 
of machines1 perfected from the         
invention of a native of ,st4 ,gall1    
were turning out a close imitation of   
the hand-made work4 ,the most recent    
triumphs of this description are the    
imitations of ,venetian point1 in which 
a nearer approximation than ever before 
has been made to the needle-worked      
toile1 and also of the bride work4 ,but1
 notwithstanding the marvelous results  
attained in machine-made lace1 they are 
the triumphs of mechanism which cannot  
displace the superiority1 and charm1 and
 rarity1 of the finest hand-made work4  
,in the latter the personal equation1   
the skill and the loving1 workmanlike   
fidelity of the individual toiler to his
 task impart a quality which dead       

mechanism can neither create nor        
supersede4 ,machine-made lace may be    
predominantly the lace of commerce1 but 
hand-made lace is the natural expression
 and embodiment of a delicate and       
difficult art1 and thus it will ever    
remain4  ,,insertion4--,a kind of lace1 
embroidery or other trimming used to    
insert in a plain fabric for ornamental 
purposes4 ,it is made with the edges on 
both sides alike1 and often a plain     
portion of the material outside the     
work1 so that it may be sewn on one side
 to the garment for which it is intended
 and to the plain part of the lace or   
border on the other4  #dg               
,illustration3 ,imitation ,point        
d',alencon4  #dh ,,irish4--,a term      
denoting a variety of laces made in     
,ireland1 of which the two most         
individual and best-known kinds are the 
net embroideries of ,limerick and the   
applique and cut cambric work of        
,carrick-ma-cross4 ,other varieties1    
which are imitations of foreign laces1  

are ,irish point1 resembling ,brussels  
lace2 black and white ,maltese2 silver1 
black and white blondes4 ,the ,limerick 
embroideries1 for they cannot be        
strictly called lace1 are an imitation  
of ,indian tambour work1 and consist of 
fine embroidery in chain-stitches upon a
 ,nottingham net4 ,carrick-ma-cross1 or 
,irish guipure1 is a kind of so-called  
,irish point lace1 made at the town of  
that name1 but which is really nothing  
more than a species of embroidery1 from 
which part of the cloth is cut away1    
leaving a guipure ground4 ,it is not a  
very durable lace4 ,the most popular    
patterns are the rose and the shamrock4 
,irish crochet is an imitation of the   
needle-point laces of ,spain and        
,venice2 that is to say1 it resembles   
these laces in general effect4 ,there is
 also a needle-point lace made of rather
 coarse thread1 and used exclusively in 
,ireland and ,england4 ,the manufacture 
of laces in ,ireland is carried on by   
the cottagers1 by the nuns in the       

convents1 and in several industrial     
schools founded for that purpose4 ,it   
has only become a popular industry      
within the last twenty-five years1 as   
the costumes of the people in earlier   
times did not require lace              
ornamentation1 and there was a          
widespread and deep-rooted aversion to  
the adoption of ,english fashions in    
clothing so long as certain sumptuary   
laws were unrepealed4  ,afterward1 under
 slightly more liberal conditions1      
,english fashions were gradually        
adopted1 and with them came the demand  
for a cheap ,irish lace1 as the foreign 
laces were too expensive4 ,not until    
#agdc was there any official attempt to 
encourage the industry1 but in that year
 the ,royal ,dublin ,society established
 prizes for excellence in lacemaking4   
,this attempt lasted until #aggd4 ,in   
#ahbi a school was opened in ,limerick  
for instruction in the now celebrated   
lace or embroidery first made in that   
town2 but in the famine years of        

#ahdf-dh more effectual measures were   
taken to spread a knowledge of the art1 
and several schools #di were opened in  
different parts of the country4 ,the    
,irish have never made a lace that can  
in any sense be called national1 but    
great skill has been developed in the   
imitations of the foreign fabrics1 and  
the ,irish name has been so closely     
associated with some of them that they  
are popularly considered a native ,irish
 product4 ,the exhibition of ,irish     
laces at the ,mansion ,house in ,london 
in #ahhc added materially to the        
reputation of these fabrics4  ,,irish   
,,trimming4--,a plain-patterned1 woven  
lace1 formerly used in ornamenting      
muslin underwear1 pillow slips and the  
like4  ,,jesuit4--,a modern needle-point
 lace1 made in ,ireland1 and so called  
on account of the tradition as to the   
introduction of its manufacture after   
the famine of #ahdf4  ,,knotted4--,a    
term applied to the old ,punto a        
,groppo1 of ,italian manufacture        

originally1 and consisting of a fringe  
or border made of knotted threads4 ,it  
is commonly called ,knotting in all     
,english-speaking countries4 ,the modern
 ,macrame is made like the knotted      
laces4  ,,lille4--,a lace made at       
,lille1 in ,france1 noted for its clear 
and light single reseau ground1 which is
 sometimes ornamented with points       
d'esprit4 ,it is a lace of simple       
design1 consisting of a thick run       
thread1 enclosing cloth-stitch for thick
 parts1 and plaitings for open parts4   
,the old ,lille lace is always made with
 a stiff and formal pattern1 with a     
thick1 straight edge1 and with a square 
instead of the usual round dots worked  
over the ground4 ,lille was             
distinguished as a lacemaking city as   
far back as #aehb1 and from that year   
until #ahdh the industry was successful1
 but since the latter year there has    
been a steady decline1 as more          
remunerative occupations have gradually 
drawn away the younger workers from     

lacemaking4 ,the ,lille pattern was     
similar to that of the laces made at    
,arras and ,mirecourt1 in ,france1 and  
in ,bedfordshire and ,buckinghamshire1  
in ,england1 but none of the latter     
could rival the famous single reseau    
ground4 #ej  ,,limerick4--7,see ,irish  
,lace47  ,,luxeuil4--,a term applied to 
several varieties of hand-made lace     
produced at ,luxeuil1 ,france4 ,they are
 stout1 heavy laces1 mostly made with   
the use of braid1 and are much used for 
curtains and draperies4  ,,macrame4--,a 
word of ,arabic derivation1 signifying a
 fringe for trimming1 whether cotton1   
thread or silk1 and now used to         
designate an ornamental cotton trimming1
 sometimes called a lace1 made by       
leaving a long fringe of coarse thread1 
and interweaving the threads so as to   
make patterns geometrical in form4 ,it  
is useful in decorating light           
upholstery4 ,macrame cord is made of    
fine1 close-twisted cotton thread1      
prepared especially for the manufacture 

of ,macrame trimming1 and also for      
coarse netting of various kinds4 ,the   
foundation of all ,macrame lace or      
trimming is knots1 made by tying short  
ends of thread either in horizontal or  
perpendicular lines1 and interweaving   
the knots so as to form a geometrical   
design1 as above mentioned1 and         
sometimes raised1 sometimes flat4 ,this 
necessitates the forming of simple      
patterns4 ,this lace is really a revival
 of the old ,italian knotted points1    
which were much used three centuries ago
 in ,spain and ,italy for ecclesiastical
 garments4 ,it appears in some of the   
paintings of the early masters1 notably 
,paul ,veronese4 ,the art has been      
taught during all the nineteenth century
 in the schools and convents along the  
,riviera4 ,it is developed in great     
perfection at ,chiavari1 and also at    
,genoa4 ,specimens of elaborate         
workmanship were in the ,paris          
,exhibition of #ahfg4                   
,,macklin4--,another name for ,mechlin  

lace4  ,,maline4--,a name sometimes     
applied to ,mechlin lace1 especially to 
the varieties whose ground is           
distinguished by a diamond-shaped mesh4 
#ea  ,illustration3 ,real ,cluny4       
,illustration3 ,real ,bruges4  #eb      
,,maltese4--,a heavy but attractive     
pillow lace1 whose patterns1 of         
arabesque or geometric design1 are      
formed of plaiting or cloth-stitch1 and 
are united with a purled bar ground4 ,it
 is made both in white silk and thread1 
and also in black ,barcelona silk4      
,there is also a cotton machine-made    
variety1 used chiefly in trimming muslin
 underwear4 ,the history of ,maltese    
lace is interesting from the fact that  
the kind originally made in that island 
by the natives1 which was a coarse      
variety of ,mechlin or ,valenciennes1 of
 an arabesque pattern1 was in #ahcc     
superseded by the manufacture of the    
white and black silk guipures now so    
widely known as ,maltese lace4 ,this    
improvement was due to ,lady ,hamilton  

,chichester1 who brought laceworkers    
over from ,genoa to teach their craft in
 the island4 ,some of the patterns from 
that time showed the influence of the   
,genoese instruction4 ,maltese lace is  
made not only in ,malta1 but in         
,auvergne and ,lepuy in ,france2 in     
,buckinghamshire and ,bedfordshire1 in  
,england1 and also in the ,irish lace   
schools4 ,ceylon and ,madras lace also  
resembles ,maltese4 ,formerly shawls and
 veils of much beauty and value were    
made of this lace1 but the manufacture  
is now confined chiefly to narrow       
trimmings4  ,,mechlin4--,a pillow lace  
originally made at ,mechlin1 ,belgium1  
and whose special characteristics are   
the narrow1 flat thread1 band or cord1  
which outlines the pattern1 and the net 
ground of hexagonal mesh4 ,sometimes the
 mesh is circular4 ,the net ground is   
made of two threads twisted twice on    
four sides and four threads plaited     
three times on the two other sides4 ,in 
this it differs from ,brussels lace1    

whose plait is longer and whose mesh is 
larger4 ,the lace is made in one piece  
upon the pillow1 the ground being formed
 with the pattern4 ,the very finest     
thread is used1 and a high degree of    
skill is necessary1 so that the         
resulting fabric is very costly4 ,it is 
a filmy1 beautiful and highly           
transparent lace1 and preserves for a   
very long time its distinguishing       
peculiarity of a shiny thread or band   
surrounding the outlines of the sprigs  
and dots of the design4 ,the earliest   
,mechlin designs were very like those of
 ,brussels lace1 though not so original 
and graceful2 but in this respect later 
,mechlin laces showed marked            
improvement4 ,the fundamental difference
 between the two1 however1 was that     
,mechlin was worked in one piece upon   
the pillow1 while the ,brussels pattern 
was first made by itself1 and the reseau
 or net ground was afterward worked in  
around it4 ,the manufacture of ,mechlin 
has long been on the decline1 the       

,french ,revolution seriously injuring  
the industry2 and when the trade was    
revived and encouraged under ,napoleon1 
the exquisite patterns of former times  
had been partly forgotten or were too   
expensive for popular demand4 ,at the   
time of its highest popularity it was   
called the ,queen of ,laces1 sharing    
that title with the finest ,alencon     
point4 ,mechlin sometimes had an        
ornamental net ground called ,fond du   
,neige1 and also a ground of six-pointed
 ,fond ,champ1 but these kinds were     
rare4 ,it has always been a very great  
favorite with the ,english1 and appears 
in most of their family collections of  
laces4 ,there was a fine collection of  
this lace at the ,paris ,exhibition of  
#ahfg from ,turnhout1 ,belgium1 as well 
as from other lace manufacturing        
centers4 #ec  ,illustration3 ,imitation 
,mechlin4  ,illustration3 ,imitation    
,torchon4  #ed  ,,medici4--,a name for a
 variety of modern torchon lace1 whose  
distinguishing peculiarity is the       

insertion effect1 the lace being very   
like an ordinary insertion1 with the    
exception of having one edge finished   
with scallops4 ,the ,medici design is   
also characterized by plain1 close-woven
 work1 the close work alternating in    
equal amount with the openwork1 the     
contrast between them heightening the   
effect4  ,,melange4--,a heavy1 black    
silk lace1 distinguished by its mingling
 of ,spanish patterns with ordinary     
,chantilly effects4 ,the edge is usually
 plain and straight1 but is sometimes   
ornamented with a fine silk fringe4     
,,mignonette4--,a light pillow lace1    
with an open ground resembling tulle1   
made in narrow strips4 ,it was one of   
the earliest of pillow laces1 and       
flourished greatly during the sixteenth1
 seventeenth and eighteenth centuries4  
,it was made of ,lille thread1 and the  
chief places of its manufacture were    
,arras1 ,lille and ,paris1 in ,france1  
and in ,switzerland4 #ee                
,,mirecourt4--,a lace made of detached  

sprigs upon a net made at the same time 
with the pattern4 ,in the seventeenth   
century it was a ,french guipure lace of
 more delicate texture and varied design
 than other guipures4 ,mirecourt1 in the
 ,department of the ,vosges1 and its    
environs1 were the center of the        
industry4 ,the manufacture was begun at 
an early date1 and for centuries only   
hempen thread was used1 the result being
 a coarse guipure2 but during the early 
part of the seventeenth century a finer 
lace of more delicate pattern was       
produced1 and it began to be exported in
 considerable quantities4 ,before the   
union of ,lorraine with ,france1 in     
#agff1 there was less than #hjj         
laceworkers in ,mirecourt1 but in #ahfi 
the number had increased to #be1jjj4    
,during the last century the ,french    
demand for this lace increased far      
beyond the foreign demand1 and it became
 desirable to produce a greater variety 
of pattern4 ,this was done with great   
success by imitating the best designs4  

,another recent improvement at          
,mirecourt is the making of application 
flowers1 and though these are not yet as
 finished as the ,brussels sprigs1 they 
bid fair to supply the ,french market1  
so as to make it to that extent         
independent of ,belgium4 ,the lace made 
at ,mirecourt is mostly white4 ,the work
 is similar in process and equal in     
quality to that of ,lille and ,arras4   
,,nanduti4--,a lace made by the natives 
of ,paraguay1 ,ecuador and ,peru1 ,south
 ,america1 from the soft1 brilliant     
fiber of the agave plant4 ,it is made in
 silk or thread by a needle on a        
cardboard pattern4 ,in ,peru and        
,ecuador it is also needle-made in the  
form of small squares and united        
together4  ,,needle-,,point4--,real lace
 of any kind worked with a needle1 on a 
parchment pattern1 and not with bobbins 
or on a pillow4 ,the distinction between
 needle-point and bobbin-made1 or pillow
 lace1 is also illustrated by the solid 
part of the pattern1 and also the ground

 of the former4 ,in needle-point the    
solid parts are invariably made of rows 
of #ef buttonhole stitches1 sometimes   
closely worked and sometimes with small 
open spaces left in the patterns4 ,the  
brides in needle-point consist of one or
 two threads fastened across from one   
part of the pattern to another1 and then
 closely buttonholed over2 it will be   
found1 also1 that true needle-point is  
made with only one kind of stitch1 the  
looped or buttonhole stitch already     
mentioned1 and that this is constant    
amid all varieties of design in this    
kind of lace4 ,pillow lace1 on the      
contrary1 has a toile made of threads   
crossing each other more or less at     
right angles2 its brides consist of     
twisted or plaited threads1 and the     
picots are simple loops1 while the      
network ground of pillow lace is of far 
greater variety than that of            
needle-point4 ,in all kinds of pillow   
lace the net groundwork is made by      
twisting and plaiting the threads1      

sometimes in twos and sometimes in      
fours4 ,briefly speaking1 the           
fundamental difference between          
needle-point and pillow lace is that the
 former is made with looped stitches    
throughout1 while the latter is made    
with twisted or plaited threads1 which  
last is really weaving1 though it is    
done with bobbins and the hand instead  
of with the loom4  ,,oriental4--,a lace 
made on the embroidering machine1 which 
by combined needle and shuttle action   
produces either simple or complex       
designs upon netting4 ,the action of the
 ,schiffli machine somewhat resembles   
that of a sewing-machine1 and the       
product is more properly called         
embroidery than lace4 ,the openwork     
effects are produced either by the      
action of chemicals upon the foundation 
material1 or by the use of the scissors4
 ,the threadwork results from the       
combined action of the shuttle and      
needles4 ,st4 ,gall1 ,switzerland1 and  
,plauen1 ,saxony1 are the chief         

manufacturing centers for these laces1  
which include trimming and border laces1
 curtains1 bed sets1 shams1 and the     
like4 ,in the broad historical sense1   
,oriental laces and embroideries refer  
to the products of the ,east1 especially
 to the ,chinese1 ,indian1 ,japanese1   
,persian and ,turkish4 ,all these were  
remarkable for the labor expended upon  
them1 their great cost1 and the         
originality and boldness of idea and    
coloring which marked their design4 #eg 
,illustration3 ,real ,renaissance4      
,illustration3 ,machine ,valenciennes4  
#eh  ,,oyah4--,a guipure lace or        
openwork embroidery1 made by means of a 
hook in a fashion similar to crochet4   
,the pattern is often elaborate1 and in 
silks of many colors1 representing      
flowers1 foliage1 etc4 ,it is sometimes 
in relief4  ,,parchment4--,lace in whose
 manufacture parchment has been used1   
whether in the pattern for the worker's 
guidance1 or for stiffening the fabric1 
as in ,cartisane lace4 ,in old accounts 

of laces1 the term was often applied to 
those made on the pillow to distinguish 
them from needle-point laces1 and it was
 derived from the pattern on which      
pillow laces were worked4  #ei          
,illustration3 ,imitation ,point de     
,venise ,combined with ,point ,gaze4    
#fj  ,,passement4--,a term applied to   
the oldest class of pillow laces1 at a  
time when they were of comparatively    
simple construction1 being little more  
than open braids and gimps4 ,this       
designation was in use until the middle 
of the seventeenth century4 ,the word is
 now applied to a decorative edging or  
trimming1 especially a gimp or braid4   
,it is an old ,french word1 and in the  
country of its origin included in its   
meaning both lace and embroideries4 ,it 
has an interesting literary association1
 having figured1 under the slightly     
altered form of passemens1 in a         
satirical poem published at ,paris in   
#affa4 ,the poem1 which is entitled ,la 
,revolte des ,passemens1 is dedicated to

 ,mademoiselle de la ,trousse1 a cousin 
of ,madame de ,sevigne1 and was probably
 composed by one of her literary        
friends4 ,it is a protest against a     
sumptuary law passed in the previous    
year to check the lavish expenditure on 
laces imported from ,venice and ,italy1 
and is interesting as an account of the 
best laces of that day1 among which are 
,pointes de ,genes1 de ,raguse1 de      
,venise1 d',angleterre et de ,flanders1 
as well as the ,gueuse of humbler       
pretensions4 ,the various laces are     
supposed to revolt against the law      
excluding them from ,france1 and        
especially from their place in the      
exalted society of the court4 ,mesdames 
les ,broderies--   ,le ,poincts1        
,dentelles1 ,passemens1   ,qui par une  
vaine despence1   ,ruinoient aujourd'hui
 la ,france--  call an indignation      
meeting4 ,one of them hotly demands what
 punishment shall be meted out to the   
court for such treatment--   ,dites moi 
je vous prie1   ,poincts1 dentelles ou  

broderies1   ,qu'aurons nous donc fait a
 la cour1 etc4  ,various laces speak    
their mind freely in reply1 but most of 
them are gloomy as to the future1 while 
a few try to take a philosophical view  
of the situation1 and resign themselves 
to an humbler though still useful fate4 
,an ,english lace1 une ,grande ,dentelle
 d',angleterre answers   ,cet infortune 
sans seconde   ,elle fait bien renoncer 
au monde     99    99    99    99    99 
99   ,pour ne plus tourner a tout vent  
,comme d'entrer dans un ,convent4  ,the 
laces of ,flanders are not so submissive
 as that1 being too vain and ambitious  
for renunciation of the world and life  
in a convent1 and their angry opposition
 starts a little tempest of debate1     
fierce resolution alternating with      
despair4 ,a black lace in hopeless mood 
hires herself out with a game merchant1 
for nets to catch snipe and woodcock4   
,an old gold lace1 in grandmotherly     
style1 tries to comfort the younger     
ones1 by reminding them of the vanity of

 the world4 ,she knows all about        
it--she1 who has dwelt in king's houses4
 ,the ,flanders laces cry out that      
rather than give in they would sooner be
 sewn to the bottom of a petticoat4     
,some of the younger ones declare they  
must still have amusement1 having had so
 much1 and rather than renounce the     
world they will #fa seek refuge in the  
masquerade shops4 ,the point laces1 with
 the exception of ,aurillac1 then       
resolve to go each to his own country1  
when suddenly the humble but plucky     
,gueuse lace1 the lace of the common    
people1 arrives from a village near     
,paris and encourages the others to     
fight it out4  ,the next morning they   
all assemble and agree upon a plan of   
campaign1 but before doing so take stock
 of their qualifications and prospects4 
,poinct d',alencon has a good opinion of
 herself2 a ,flanders lace says she made
 two campaigns under the king1 as a     
cravat2 another had been in the wars    
under the great ,marshal ,turenne2      

another was torn at the siege of        
,dunkirk2 and all had done something    
worth notice4 ,what have we to fear8    
asked an ,english lace4 ,a ,poinct de   
,genes1 of rather flabby character1     
advises the ,english lace to go slow4   
,finally open war is declared1 and the  
laces all assemble at the fair of ,st4  
,germain to be reviewed by ,general     
,luxe4 ,the muster roll is called by    
,colonel ,sotte ,depense1 and the       
various regiments and battalions march  
forth to victory or death4 ,but they got
 neither1 for at the first approach of  
the royal artillery they take to their  
heels1 are captured and condemned to    
various punishments4  ,the gold and     
silver laces1 the leaders of the        
rebellion1 are sentenced to the fate of 
,jeanne ,d',arc1 to be burned alive2 the
 points are condemned to be made into   
tinder for the sole use of the ,king's  
,musketeers2 others are to be made into 
cordage or sent to the galleys4 ,but    
pardon is obtained through the good     

offices of cunning little ,cupid--,le   
petit dieu plein de finesse1 and the    
rebels are restored to their former     
position4  ,the poem illustrates the    
policy of most ,european governments at 
that time1 a policy of excluding foreign
 manufactures of all kinds2 and in the  
case of laces1 the fear of encouraging  
wasteful habits among the rich1 who     
offered a tempting opportunity for royal
 extortion1 was too #fb useful a        
pretence to be passed by4 ,but all these
 efforts were fruitless to discourage   
the growth of lacemaking4 ,the passion  
for beauty in personal adornment would  
not down4 ,the engravings of ,abraham   
,bosse1 which portray the dress and     
manners of that time1 humorously depict 
the despair of the fashionable lady over
 the prospect of giving up her laces4   
,she is represented as attired in plain 
hemmed linen cuffs1 collar and cap of   
,puritanical severity1 bemoaning her sad
 fate1 in heartbreaking strains1 as she 
sorrowfully packs away her rich         

lace-trimmed costumes4 ,her sadness was 
not unduly prolonged4 ,colbert1 the     
great ,french statesman1 saw that laces 
would be smuggled if they were legally  
prohibited1 that the rich would have    
them at any cost1 so he encouraged      
foreign lacemakers to come to ,france1  
and the manufacture was thus promoted4  
,,pillow4--,lace made on the pillow or  
cushion1 both pattern and mesh being    
formed by hand4 ,see ,needle-point lace4
  ,,plaited4--,a pillow lace of simple  
geometrical design1 often made of strong
 and stiff strands1 such as gold thread 
or fine braid4 ,the pattern1 besides    
being geometrical in design1 is open1   
and has no grounds4 ,for ordinary       
purposes tinsel is used instead of real 
gold1 and the lace is then employed for 
theatrical purposes4 ,historically      
considered1 the plaited laces made of   
gold1 silver or silk thread1 took the   
place of the ,italian knotted laces of  
the sixteenth century4 ,those produced  
at ,genoa and in ,spain were the best1  

and they are made in ,spain to-day1     
chiefly for church uses4 ,the thread    
plaited laces of the seventeenth century
 were used to trim ruffs and falling    
collars1 but went out of fashion when   
flowing wigs came in1 as the latter hid 
the collar and would not allow ruffs to 
be worn4 ,at the present time plaited   
laces have become known under the name  
of ,maltese and ,cluny1 and are made at 
,auvergne1 in ,france1 ,malta1 and in   
the ,english counties of ,bedfordshire  
and ,buckinghamshire4 #fc               
,illustration3 ,real ,maltese4          
,illustration3 ,real ,guipure4  #fd     
,,plauen4--,a name applied to any kind  
of lace made at ,plauen1 ,saxony1 or    
elsewhere1 upon the embroidering        
machine1 such as ,oriental1 tulle and   
chiffon lace1 ,point de ,venise1 ,point 
d',irlande4 ,plauen led in the          
manufacture of this kind of lace1 having
 begun it in #ahha1 from which year     
dates the importance of that city as a  
lace market4 ,the manufacture was       

gradually developed4 ,only the tulle    
variety of embroidery lace was produced 
until #ahhf4 ,the distinguishing feature
 of this was that the hollow effects    
were made by opening the tulle meshes by
 hand4 ,then1 in #ahhf1 an openwork     
process was invented by which chemical  
action was employed to remove a woolen  
or silk foundation from the             
cotton-embroidered pattern1 or a cotton 
foundation from a silk embroidery that  
had been worked on it4 ,this made it    
possible to form the pattern by the     
embroidery machine in the same way as in
 the case of ordinary embroidery4 ,the  
wool foundation1 which is necessary to  
be removed in finishing the goods1 is   
dissolved by the action of certain      
chemicals without changing the cotton or
 silk pattern4 ,in this way the most    
difficult and complicated patterns of   
real lace can be imitated4 ,plauen      
manufacturers have for the most part    
taken the old and costly hand-made laces
 of former times for their models2 but  

they have also originated new and       
tasteful designs from time to time4     
,,point ,,applique4--,point lace whose  
design is separate from the net ground1 
to which it is afterward applied4 ,at   
the present time the net ground is      
usually machine-made4 ,the word point1  
however1 in this connection1 is of      
variable application1 sometimes         
signifying ,point ,applique1 and        
sometimes denoting lace1 whether pillow 
or needle-point2 that is1 worked in     
sprays and laid upon a machine-net      
ground4 7,see ,application lace47       
,,point ,d',,alencon4--,see ,alencon4   
,,point ,d',,angleterre4--,see ,english 
,point4  ,,point ,,de ,,gaze4--,a very  
fine1 gauze-like lace1 made entirely    
with the #fe needle and grounded with   
its own net4 ,point de ,gaze is the     
result of an attempt of the ,brussels   
lacemakers to return to the best early  
traditions of needle-point4 ,point de   
,gaze differs1 however1 from the finest 
old needle-point in certain respects1   

partly necessitated by modern taste in  
design1 and partly from the need of     
great economy in labor costs4 ,for      
example1 the execution is much more open
 and delicate than in the early lace of 
this description1 but this very delicacy
 and slightness are made use of to      
produce a very elegant effect4 ,part of 
the toile1 or substance of the pattern1 
is made in close and part in open       
stitch1 giving an appearance of shading1
 and the open parts are very tastefully 
ornamented with dots4 ,the result does  
not in all respects equal the softness  
and richness of the early lace1 but if  
,point de ,gaze seems thin and loose in 
comparison1 and if the patterns seem    
less ideally beautiful1 nevertheless the
 later work has a unique lightness and  
delicacy to which the earlier lace did  
not attain4 ,it certainly is the most   
etherial and delicately beautiful of all
 point laces4 ,its forms are not        
emphasized by a raised outline of       
buttonhole stitching1 as in ,point      

d',alencon and ,point d',argentan1 but  
are simply outlined by a thread4        
,,point ,,de ,,gene4--,a name at present
 applied to a species of lace made both 
in cotton and silk at ,st4 ,gall and    
,plauen1 and recognized by its regular  
net ground and large1 open patterns in  
heavy stitchwork4 ,it is a popular      
trimming for women's dresses4 ,point de 
,gene1 or ,genes1 was originally one of 
the laces made at the city of ,genoa and
 in the surrounding country during the  
seventeenth century1 both the pillow and
 needle laces made there being          
deservedly famous4 ,gold and silver     
thread and gold wire were used in the   
manufacture of the earliest needle-point
 laces at ,genoa1 and the gold wire was 
drawn out in exact imitation of the     
early ,greek method4 ,one of the best   
,genoese laces resembles the early      
,greek points in patterns4 ,there was   
also a guipure lace1 made from aloe     
fiber1 as well as the knotted lace now  
#ff known as ,macrame4 ,the last named  

is the only lace at present made in     
,genoa1 and along the seacoast4  ,,point
 ,d',,esprit4--,a term applied to a     
small oval or square figure1 peculiar to
 certain varieties of early guipure1 and
 ordinarily composed of three short     
lengths of parchment or cord1 placed    
side by side and covered with thread4   
,these oval or square figures were most 
commonly arranged in the form of        
rosettes4 ,at present the term ,point   
d',esprit denotes a much smaller solid  
or mat surface1 used to diversify the   
net ground of some laces4 ,it is in the 
form of small squares that set at close 
and regular intervals4 ,in standard     
histories of lace the term is also used 
as synonymous with embroidered tulle1   
made in ,brittany1 ,denmark and around  
,genoa4  ,,point ,d',,irlande4--,a      
coarse1 machine-made imitation of real  
,venetian point lace4 ,it is popular for
 dress trimmings1 and is manufactured in
 a great variety of widths in cotton and
 silk4 ,it has no net ground1 the       

patterns being united by brides4        
,,point ,,de ,,milan4--,a guipure lace  
with a small mesh ground1 and the       
pattern distinguished by striking scroll
 designs4 ,the flowers in the pattern of
 hand-made ,point de ,milan are flat1   
and have the appearance of having been  
wrought in close-woven linen4 ,milan    
point was made at the city of that name 
in #adic4 ,gold and silver thread were  
first used1 but the ,milan points were  
finer than these1 and fully equal to the
 best ,spanish and ,venetian points4    
,,point ,,de ,,paris4--,originally a    
narrow pillow lace1 resembling          
,brussels4 ,the term is now generally   
applied to a machine-made cotton lace of
 simple pattern and inferior quality4   
,in its making a design whose figures1  
such as flowers and leaves1 are outlined
 with a heavy thread1 is worked upon a  
net ground4 ,point de ,paris is         
distinguished by the net1 which is      
hexagonal in form4  ,,point ,,de        
,,venise4--,see ,venice ,point4 #fg     

,illustration3 ,imitation ,irish        
,crochet4  #fh  ,,point4--,same as      
,needle-point lace1 made wholly by hand1
 with the needle and a single thread4   
,,pot4--,lace whose pattern is          
distinguished by the figure of a vase or
 deep dish1 and sometimes by that of a  
basket containing flowers4 ,it is the   
best-known lace made at ,antwerp1 and   
was formerly in common use in that city 
for decorating women's caps4 ,the vase  
and basket figures vary much in size and
 design4 ,some have considered this     
pattern to be a survival from an earlier
 design1 including the figure of the    
,virgin and the ,annunciation1 but this 
is not certain4  ,,powdered4--,lace     
whose ground is strewn with small1      
separate ornaments1 such as flowers1    
sprigs1 or squares1 like ,point         
d',esprit4 ,the term is applied also to 
whitened lace4  ,,renaissance4--,a      
modern point lace1 whose patterns are   
made of narrow braid1 and united by bars
 or filling of different kinds4 ,it is  

generally ornamented with circular      
figures and scroll-work1 stitched in    
place by needle and thread1 the         
intervening spaces or groundwork1 being 
composed of a variety of fancy openwork4
 ,irish ,renaissance1 ,luxeuil and      
,battenberg are the other names for this
 lace4  ,,rose ,,point4--,see ,venice   
,point4  ,,saxony4--,fine drawnwork     
embroidered with the needle1 in much    
demand in the eighteenth century4 ,at   
the present time the term is somewhat   
vague1 denoting many kinds of laces made
 in ,saxony1 especially in imitation of 
old ,brussels lace4 ,though the latter  
is the best that is made1 a coarse      
guipure lace1 known as ,etervelle1 and  
plaited lace has the greatest sale4     
,,seaming4--,a narrow openwork          
insertion1 gimp or braiding1 with       
parallel sides1 used for joining two    
breadths of linen1 instead of sewing    
them directly the one to the other4 ,the
 name is given to a similar lace used   
for edgings1 as in the trimming of      

pillow-cases and sheets4 #fi ,during the
 sixteenth and seventeenth centuries    
this lace was very popular1 though the  
name seaming was then applied to any    
kind of lace used for a particular      
purpose--namely1 to insert in the linen 
or other fabric wherever a seam         
appeared1 and often where no seam was   
really necessary4 ,the lace first used  
for this purpose was cut-work2 then     
,hollie point became fashionable1 and   
afterward the custom grew to be so      
common that cheaper laces were employed4
 ,there is still in existence a sheet   
decorated with cut-work that once       
belonged to ,shakespeare4  ,,silver4--,a
 passement or guipure wholly or in large
 part composed of silver wire1 or of    
warp threads of silk1 or silk and cotton
 combined1 wound with a thin1 flat      
ribbon of silver4 ,see ,gold lace4      
,,spanish4--,a general term applies to  
the following four different kinds of   
lace3 7a7 ,needle-point lace1 brought   
from ,spanish convents after their      

dissolution1 though the art of making it
 is thought by some to have been learned
 in ,flanders4 7b7 ,cut and drawnwork   
made in ,spanish convents1 of patterns  
usually confined to simple sprigs and   
flowers4 7c7 ,a modern black silk lace  
with large flower patterns4 7d7 ,a      
modern needle-made fabric1 the pattern  
usually in large squares4 ,the          
machine-made black and white silk laces1
 with their flower patterns1 are from   
,lyons and ,calais1 ,france4 ,much could
 be said about the uncertain application
 of the term ,spanish in regard to      
certain kinds of lace4 ,it has often    
been inaccurately used4 ,for instance1  
,spanish ,point and ,point d',espagne   
have been misapplied to ,italian laces1 
in the same way that ,point             
d',angleterre has been misapplied to    
,brussels lace4 ,in the four kinds of   
,spanish lace above enumerated1 it is   
noticeable that some are of ,flemish    
origin4 ,a lace known for certain to be 
of ,spanish origin is a coarse pillow   

guipure made in white thread and also of
 gold and silver4 ,it is a loosely made 
fabric consisting of three cordonnets1  
the center one being the coarsest1      
united by finer threads running in and  
out across them1 and with brides to join
 #gj the parts of the pattern and keep  
them in shape4 ,it is well known that   
large quantities of lace that have the  
characteristics of raised ,venetian     
,point were used in ,spain1 both for    
court dresses and church purposes1 such 
as the ornamentation of vestments and   
altars4 ,during the invasion of         
,napoleon the churches and monasteries  
were pillaged and the laces contained   
therein were scattered abroad and sold  
as being of ,spanish origin1 though many
 of them were not4  ,the graceful       
,spanish headdress1 the mantilla1 has   
been chiefly made in the province of    
,catalonia1 out of black and white      
,blondes1 but it is inferior to a       
similar lace of ,french manufacture4    
,the most celebrated of the ,spanish    

laces are the gold and silver fabrics1  
known as ,point d',espagne1 the ,blonde 
laces and ,spanish or ,rose point4 ,the 
first-named is a very old lace1 was     
known in ,spain as early as the middle  
of the fifteenth century1 and is made   
with gold and silver threads1 upon which
 a pattern is embroidered in colored    
silk4 ,the ,blondes1 which have been    
already mentioned1 have thick though    
graceful patterns upon a light net      
ground4 ,rose point is wholly made with 
the needle and is very like ,venetian   
point1 being considered1 in fact1 as a  
variety of the latter4 ,the close       
resemblance is accounted for by the fact
 that this kind of lace was made by the 
inmates of religious houses1 which were 
transferred from one country to another 
at the will of their superior and       
carried with them the secret of a       
difficult art4 ,the ,rose points1 some  
of which are not raised1 are formed with
 a pattern-worked net in buttonhole     
stitches1 the parts of the pattern being

 joined together by brides4 ,the raised 
,rose points are recognized by their    
thick cordonnet or outlining of the     
pattern4  ,,tambour4--,lace made with   
needle embroidery upon a machine-made   
net1 generally black or white           
,nottingham4 ,it is chiefly made in     
,ireland and commonly included among the
 ,limerick laces4  #ga  ,illustration3  
,leavers's ,lace ,machine4  #gb         
,,tape4--,a lace made with the needle1  
except that a tape or narrow strip of   
linen is wrought into the work and is   
the distinguishing feature of the       
pattern4 ,these plain or ornamented     
tapes or braids1 arranged so as to form 
the pattern1 have always been peculiar  
to this kind of lace4 ,the patterns are 
connected together with either bride or 
net grounds4 ,the earliest were made    
with a bride ground and simple cloth    
stitch1 but gradually very elaborate    
designs were wrought as part of the     
braid-like patterns and united by       
open-meshed grounds4 ,in the seventeenth

 and eighteenth centuries the braid and 
tape laces included the large majority  
of coarse pillow laces made in          
,flanders1 ,spain and ,italy4           
,,thread4--,lace made from linen thread 
as distinguished from silk and cotton   
laces4 ,black thread is a misnomer for  
,chantilly4  ,,torchon4--,a coarse      
pillow lace made of strong1 soft and    
loosely twisted thread4 ,in ,europe it  
is known also as ,beggars' lace1 and the
 old ,french ,gueuse lace was similar to
 ,torchon4 ,the patterns generally are  
very simple and formed with a loose     
stout thread and the ground is coarse   
net4 ,torchon is now also machine made4 
,,valenciennes4--,a solid and durable   
pillow lace having the same kind of     
thread throughout for both ground and   
pattern4 ,both the pattern and ground   
are wrought together by the same hand1  
and as this demands much skill in the   
manipulation of a great many threads and
 bobbins1 the price of ,valenciennes is 
very high4 ,the mesh of the ground is   

usually square or diamond shaped1 very  
open and of great regularity4 ,it is a  
flat lace1 worked in one piece1 and no  
different kind of thread is introduced  
to outline the pattern or to be wrought 
into any part of the fabric4 ,this      
affords a ready means of distinguishing 
the hand-made variety of this lace4 ,the
 ,valenciennes now made is not so       
beautiful in design and construction as 
the fabric of an earlier date1          
especially in the latter part of the    
eighteenth century4 ,it is usually of   
narrower width and is easier to learn   
how to make4  ,valenciennes was first   
made at the town of that name1 which1   
#gc though originally ,flemish1 was     
transferred to ,france by treaty2 and   
the manufacture at this town was carried
 on under conditions which assured the  
superiority of the lace produced there4 
,the difference between the             
,valenciennes product and that of other 
towns could be detected by the softer   
feel in the former case1 because the    

moist climate of ,valenciennes gave a   
smoother action to the bobbins when used
 in manufacture2 and it is interesting  
to note that the lace was made in       
underground rooms4 ,these peculiarities 
earned for lace made in that town the   
name of ,vraie ,valenciennes1 and it    
brought a higher price than the         
,valenciennes of the surrounding        
villages4 ,the thread was spun from the 
finest flax4 ,to buy a yard of a flounce
 or a pair of broad ruffles was a       
serious matter for the purchaser unless 
he was wealthy4 ,the labor cost was high
 even in those days of low wages2 from  
#cjj to #a1bjj bobbins were required in 
a piece of fine work4 ,the history of   
the changes in ,valenciennes patterns   
is1 to some extent1 a history of        
deterioration in elegance of design4    
,the first patterns were exquisitely    
beautiful1 the designs often being      
wrought in grounds that were varied in  
several ways even in one piece4 ,the    
designs afterward became simpler1 and   

octagon and hexagon meshes came to take 
the place of the close grounds of       
earlier manufacture4 ,since #aghj the   
lighter and less expensive laces of     
,lille1 ,brussels and ,arras have partly
 ousted the more beautiful1 costly and  
durable product of ,valenciennes1 while 
changes in modern dress have stopped the
 demand for some articles which were    
formerly among the fashionable mainstays
 of the industry2 for example1 men's    
ruffles4  ,the ,french ,revolution      
practically destroyed lacemaking at     
,valenciennes1 and the industry was     
transferred to ,belgium4 ,the lace      
produced there was1 however1 given the  
name of ,false ,valenciennes4 ,alost1   
,bruges1 ,ypres1 ,ghent1 ,menin and     
,courtrai became centers of the         
manufacture1 and the lace made in each  
town had a distinguishing #gd feature in
 the ground4 ,for example1 the ,ghent   
ground is square meshed1 the bobbin     
being twisted two and one-half times4   
,at ,ypres1 the ground is square meshed1

 but the bobbins are twisted four times4
 ,in ,courtrai and ,menin1 the bobbins  
are twisted three and a half times1 and 
in ,bruges three times4 ,as an          
illustration of the fact that the making
 of old ,valenciennes is a lost art1 it 
is interesting to note that the last    
important piece of work executed within 
that town was a headdress presented by  
the town to the ,duchesse de ,nemoms on 
her marriage in #ahdj4 ,the headdress   
was made by old women1 the few real     
,valenciennes laceworkers then          
surviving1 with the praiseworthy and    
patriotic object of showing the         
perfection of the product of former     
days4 ,there are several machine-made   
varieties of ,valenciennes4 ,english    
,valenciennes is chiefly made at        
,nottingham2 it is also called ,platt   
and ,normandy ,valenciennes4 ,it is an  
imitation of the early hand-made lace1  
to the extent of having a similar       
diamond-meshed ground4 ,its pattern is  
without relief1 and the threads of which

 it is made are no heavier than the     
ground4 ,french ,valenciennes is made   
mostly at ,calais4 ,its pattern is      
usually outlined by a stouter thread    
than that forming the ground1 and it has
 a finer finish and softer feel than the
 ,english ,valenciennes2 in fact1 it is 
an excellent imitation of the real4     
,italian ,valenciennes is a narrow1     
fine-threaded lace1 used for trimming   
fine underwear4  #ge  ,illustration3    
,schiffli or ,power ,embroidering       
,machine4  #gf ,,venice ,,point4--,a    
needle-point lace made at ,venice during
 the first half of the seventeenth      
century4 ,it is somewhat difficult to   
apply the name exclusively to any one of
 the several varieties of ,venetian     
point made at that time2 but ,venetian  
,raised point1 whose pattern is of      
large1 beautifully designed flowers in  
decided relief and united by brides or  
bars1 is commonly called ,venetian      
point4 ,other names applied to this kind
 of lace are ,rose point1 ,venetian     

,flat point1 ,carnival lace1 ,cardinal's
 point1 ,pope's point1 and ,point       
d',espagne4 ,these names simply register
 the various changes of style and       
manufacture in the history of this lace4
 ,with the exception of ,point          
d',espagne1 which has a less valid claim
 to be called ,venetian point than the  
others1 the various names given serve   
roughly to suggest the distinction      
between three separate stages in point  
of style and date of the fabric known   
broadly as ,punto tagliato a foliani1 or
 ,venetian point4 ,they are generally   
given as follows3 7#a7 ,venetian ,raised
 point1 or ,gros ,point de ,venise1     
under which is included ,rose point2    
7#b7 ,venetian ,flat point1 or ,point   
,plat de ,venise1 with its later        
variety1 known as ,coraline point2 7#c7 
,grounded ,venetian point1 or ,point de 
,venise a ,reseau1 which includes       
,burano point1 so called from the island
 near ,venice1 where it was made4 ,with 
regard to ,raised point1 it is worth    

noting1 in addition to the              
characteristics already referred to1    
that the flower design is of a freedom  
and continuity that make the pattern so 
filling that there is very little space 
left for the ground1 the bridework      
merely serving to hold the pattern      
strongly together4 ,the cordonnet1 or   
outlining thread1 is unusually          
prominent1 and the raised part is no    
less remarkable for its boldness in     
design than for its delicate            
workmanship4 ,an ,italian poet has      
described this work as sculptured in    
relief4 ,in ,raised point the skill of  
the laceworker was informed by the      
instinct for beauty in such a degree as 
to produce one of the highest types of  
the art4 ,rose point resembles ,raised  
point in all essential features1 the    
only difference being that the designs  
are smaller and the ornamentation more  
abundant4 ,the pattern is less filling  
and the connecting brides more          
prominent4  ,flat ,venetian point is    

marked by an absence of the prominent   
raised work1 the designs are more       
attenuated1 and the brides are          
altogether more prominent than in the   
,raised point4 ,coraline point is a     
variety of ,flat point1 which must be   
considered a deterioration in design on 
account of its ill-connected and        
irregular pattern1 which was originally 
supposed to imitate a branch of coral4  
,there is no raised work1 the ground    
meshes are ill-arranged and ill-shaped1 
and on the whole this #gg lace marks the
 decadence of an art formerly almost    
perfect4 ,it is more like an imitation  
of a free growth of plants1 the tangled 
growth of a state of nature1 as compared
 with the order and beauty of art4 ,the 
grounded point1 the last stage of       
development of ,venetian lace1 began to 
be made to supply the markets of ,france
 after the fine old ,venetian point had 
been excluded by protective laws4 ,the  
,venetian lacemakers then adopted the   
reseau or net ground made at ,alencon4  

,the ground is composed of double       
twisted threads1 and has a rounder mesh 
than ,alencon1 and there is no outlining
 cordonnet4 ,in this variety of         
,venetian point1 which was produced     
during the latter half of the eighteenth
 century1 the pattern is not so well    
arranged as in others1 and there is a   
redundancy of ornamentation4 ,the       
manufacture of ,venetian point is now   
almost extinct4 ,the machine-made       
variety1 produced on the ,schiffli      
embroidery frame1 is now made at ,plauen
 and ,st4 ,gall4 7,see ,plauen lace47   
,,yak4--,a stout1 coarse pillow lace1   
made from the fine wool of the ,yak4    
,the patterns are of simple1 geometrical
 design1 connected with plaited guipure 
bars that form part of the pattern1     
being made out of the same threads at   
the same time4 ,the term is also applied
 to a machine-made worsted lace1        
produced in black1 white and colors4 ,it
 is used as a trimming for              
undergarments1 shawls and petticoats4   

,,ypres4--,a pillow lace resembling     
,valenciennes1 but sometimes with bolder
 designs and rather large lozenge or    
square mesh in the ground2 also a type  
of ,valenciennes4         99       99   
99       99       99   ,corrections made
 to printed original3  ,page #b in      
though it was also regarded as the      
insignia3--though1 printed as thought in
 original4  ,page #cd in transferred to 
,calvados3--transferred1 printed as     
trasferred in original4  ,page #ci in   
the leaves of the aloe3--aloe1 printed  
as alol in original4  ,page #fe in      
raised outline of buttonhole            
stitching3--raised1 printed as raise in 
original4  ,page #ge in caption         
,schiffli or ,power ,embroidering       
,machine3--,embroidering1 printed as    
,embroldering in original4