,austrian ,literature ,online47 ,transcriber's ,note3 ,the original publication has been faithfully replicated except as listed near the end of this document under another ,transcriber's ,note4 ,italicized words are indicated like this4 ,bold words are indicated like this4 ,fractions are indicated like this3 #c-adaei_/ajjjjj4 ,the oe ligature is indicated like this3 manoeuvre4 99 99 99 99 99 ,illustration3 ,,chart ,,of ,,the ,,track ,,of ,,the ,,austrian ,,imperial ,,frigate ,,novara ,,on ,,her ,,voyage ,,round ,,the ,,globe ,in ,the ,years #aheg1 #aheh #ahei4 ,,narrative ,,of ,,the ,circumnavigation of the ,globe ,,by ,,the ,,austrian ,,frigate ,,novara1 7,,commodore ,b4 ,,von ,,wullerstorf-,,urbair17 ,undertaken by ,order of the ,imperial ,government1 ,,in ,,the ,,years #aheg1 #aheh1 #ahei1 ,,under ,,the ,,immediate ,,auspices ,,of ,,his ,i4 ,,and ,r4 ,,highness ,,the ,,archduke ,,ferdinand ,,maximilian1 ,,commander-,,in-,,chief ,,of ,,the ,,austrian ,,navy4 ,,dr4 ,,karl ,,scherzer1 ,,member ,,of ,,the ,,expedition1 ,,author ,,of ,,travels ,,in ,,central ,,america1 ,,etc4 ,,vol4 ,i4 ,illustration ,,london3 ,,saunders1 ,,otley1 ,,and ,,co4 #ff1 ,,brook ,,street1 ,,hanover ,,square4 #ahfa4 ,,the ,,right ,,of ,,translation ,,is ,,reserved4 ,,london3 ,,printed ,,by ,,woodfall ,,and ,,kinder1 ,,angel ,,court1 ,,skinner ,,street4 ,,to ,,sir ,,roderick ,,impey ,,murchison1 ,g4,c4,s4,,st41 ,m4,a41 ,d4,c4,l41 ,v4,p4,r4,s41 ,g4,s41 ,l4,s41 ,f4,r4,g4,s41 ,,director-,,general ,,of ,,the ,,geological ,,survey ,,of ,,great ,,britain ,,and ,,ireland1 ,,trust4 ,,brit4 ,,mus41 ,,etc41 ,,etc41 ,,the ,,great ,,promoter ,,of ,,geographical ,,knowledge1 ,these ,pages are respectfully ,inscribed1 ,,in ,,recognition ,,of ,,his ,,valuable ,,exertions ,,in ,,advancing ,,the ,,scientific ,,objects ,,of ,,the ,,austrian ,,expedition1 ,,as ,,well ,,as ,,in ,,gratitude ,,for ,,the ,,hospitable ,,reception ,,secured ,,to ,,the ,,navigators ,,throughout ,,the ,,british ,,dependencies1 ,,wherever ,,it ,,was ,,their ,,good ,,fortune ,,to ,,cast ,,anchor1 ,,by ,,the ,,author ,,of ,,the ,,following ,,narrative4 ,illustration3 ,,letter4 ,illustration3 ,,letter ,,continued4 ,,preface ,,to ,,the ,,english ,,edition4 ,a member of the scientific corps attached to the ,expedition1 which1 under the auspices of that enlightened friend of science and liberty1 the ,archduke ,ferdinand ,maximilian1 was despatched on a voyage round the globe1 the high honour has been conferred upon me of having entrusted to my care the publication of the ,narrative of our ,cruise4 ,in this not more difficult than enviable task1 ,i have been most liberally assisted by my eminent fellow-labourers--the whole literary material collected during the voyage having been kindly placed at my disposal4 ,the comprehensive journals and reports of the venerable ,commander-in-,chief of the ,expedition1 ,commodore ,wullerstorff-,urbair1 as well as the various memoranda of the other members of the ,scientific ,commission1 contributed materially to the elucidation of my own general notes1 as well as my observations upon special subjects1 which latter chiefly referred to the ,geography1 ,ethnography1 and general ,statistics of the various countries visited4 ,while preparing the details of our voyage for publication in my own language1 the idea perpetually presented itself that a translation of this narrative into ,english might prove not unacceptable to the ,british public4 ,and although fully aware that a voyage round the globe1 in the course of which little more than the coasts were visited of the various countries we touched at1 could not pretend to offer much new information to the greatest of maritime nations1 it seemed1 nevertheless1 that it might interest a people so eager in the pursuit of knowledge as the ,english1 to know the impression which has been made upon travellers of education by the ,colonies and ,settlements of ,britain throughout the world4 ,the ,english language1 moreover1 being spoken more or less over the greater part of the earth's surface1 geographically speaking1 the author who addresses his readers in that tongue is sustained by the flattering conviction that he will be understood by the majority of the nations of the globe6 ,for it is not alone the educated classes of all countries that seek to master a language which possesses such a grand--all but unrivalled literature6 ,the political and commercial development which ,great ,britain enjoys under the benign influence of liberal institutions1 has made ,english the medium of intercourse among almost all sea-faring nations2 nay1 even barbarous tribes find it their obvious interest to get a slight inkling at least of the language of a people whose civilizing and elevating energies they may not1 it is true1 understand1 far less appreciate1 but whose imposing power inspires them with awe1 while they are more closely attached by the tie of material advantage4 ,the following narrative describes the most important occurrences and most lasting impressions of a voyage during which we traversed #ea1fhf miles1 visited twenty-five different places1 and spent #eea days at sea1 and #bih at anchor or on shore4 ,as the purely scientific results of the ,expedition will be published separately under the supervision of ,commodore ,wullerstorf and the other members of the scientific corps1 ,i shall1 in this place1 only attempt to place before the reader a general outline of the countries and races visited during our cruise in different regions of the world4 ,in relating simply and concisely what was seen and experienced1 ,i have endeavoured to avoid incurring the reproach1 so frequently launched by ,english critics against ,german works of travel1 of dryness and minute detail1 such as render them distasteful to the ,english reader1 and make it almost impossible to enlist his attention or evoke his sympathy4 ,if1 as is specially the case with respect to natural science1 many a doubtful point still remains undecided--if the ingenious ,suggestions of the immortal ,alexander von ,humboldt 7for the translation of which ,i feel particularly indebted to that profound scholar1 my learned and esteemed friend ,mr4 ,haidinger1 whose name will be familiar to the scientific world in ,great ,britain71 could not be acted upon to the extent and in the effectual manner each of us could have wished1 the reason for such deficiencies will be found in the peculiar mission of the ,expedition1 and in the arrangement of our route1 which was specially laid out with reference to the numerous and widely different objects1 which it was specially intended to keep in view throughout the voyage4 ,among the more prominent of these1 may be specified the opportunity thus afforded for the practical instruction of our young and rapidly-increasing navy2 the unfurling of the ,imperial flag of ,austria in those distant climes1 where it had never before floated2 the promulgation of commercial treaties2 the aid afforded to science in exploration and investigation1 as well as by the collection of those objects of ,natural ,history1 the acquisition of which is all but impossible to the solitary naturalist1 owing to the expense and difficulty of transport1#a and the establishment everywhere of friendly correspondence between our own scientific institutions and those in remote regions1 ,i have considered it necessary to invite the attention of the ,british reading public to these circumstances1 in order to make them more intimately cognisant of our various and manifold tasks1 and thus make them the more readily disposed to overlook the deficiencies and discrepancies of this book1 which ,i now respectfully commit to their perusal4 ,footnote #a3 ,notwithstanding the short period at our disposal at each port1 which concomitant necessity militates so much against the practical utility of a circumnavigation of the globe as compared with an expedition solely directed to one single centre of scientific observation1 the collection of objects of ,natural ,history made during the cruise are very extensive1 and unusually rich in new or rare species4 ,the zoological department alone embraces above #bc1gjj individuals of different kinds of animals3 viz4 #ddj mammalia1 #cjj reptiles1 #aejj birds1 #adjj ,amphibi1 #accj fish1 #ijjj insects1 #hijj ,molluscs and ,crustace1 #cjj birds' eggs and nests1 besides numerous skeletons4 ,the botanical collection consists of ,herbaria1 seeds of useful plants1 special regard being had to those best adapted for the various climates of the respective ,austrian provinces1 drugs1 specimens of dye-woods1 and timber1 fruits preserved in alcohol1 c4 ,the ,geological and ,palontological ,museums of our country have likewise been enriched with various rare and valuable specimens1 particularly in consequence of ,dr4 ,hochstetter1 the geologist of the ,expedition1 having prolonged his stay in ,new ,zealand1 where1 at the special request of the ,colonial ,government1 he explored the province of ,auckland4 ,the ,ethnographical and ,anthropological collection consists of above #eej objects1 among which are #ajj skulls1 representing the craniology of almost all the races of the globe4 ,before concluding1 ,i beg leave to express my hearty thanks to all those who have contributed in such various ways to aid my humble efforts--to specify some were invidious1 as in so doing ,i must wrong others4 ,to each and all ,i return the most heartfelt gratitude4 ,may the indulgent reader peruse the following pages with an approving eye--may they afford him as much satisfaction and as much interest as ,i experienced in committing to paper the descriptions and impressions therein set forth1 since in so doing1 ,i1 so to speak1 made the delightful voyage for the second time1 and in thought visited once more the different localities1 from every one of which ,i1 and my fellow-travellers1 brought away none but the most friendly and agreeable recollections4 ,it inspires a ,german traveller with a peculiar and lofty feeling of pride and delight that he can look upon himself as belonging to a race1 to whom seems to have been reserved the diffusion of a ,new ,life over the earth--whose special mission it appears to be to make even the most primitive tribes in the remotest corner of the world acquainted with the blessings of ,christian civilization1 of political liberty1 of intellectual culture1 and1 standing triumphant on the ruins of slavery and despotism1 to proclaim to the great family of universal mankind1 the advent of a new1 a vernal era of ,faith1 ,freedom1 and ,happiness6 ,,dr4 ,,karl ,,scherzer4 ,,trieste1 #ahth ,march1 #ahfa4 ,,contents4 ,,chapter ,i4 ,,preparations ,,for ,,the ,,voyage4 ,,page ,approval of the ,plan to fit out an ,austrian ,man-of-,war for a ,voyage round the ,world4--,object of the ,expedition4-- ,appointment of a ,scientific ,commission4--,preparations4-- ,fitting out the ,frigate ,novara at ,pola4--,departure for ,trieste4--,visit of the ,archduke ,ferdinand ,maximilian on board4 #a ,,chapter ,,ii4 ,,from ,,trieste ,,to ,,gibraltar4 ,departure4--,fair ,voyage down the ,adriatic4--,a ,man lost and found again4--,passage through the ,straits of ,messina4--,the ,steamer ,sta4 ,lucia returns to ,trieste4--,regulations and ,instructions for further ,proceedings4--,a ,day on ,board the ,novara4-- ,sunrise4--,cleaning the ,ship4--,mental and ,physical ,occupation4-- ,moonlight at ,sea4 #aa ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,,gibraltar4 ,political ,significance of the ,rock4--,courtesy of the ,british ,authorities4--,fortifications4--,signal ,stations4--,the only ,place in ,europe frequented by ,monkeys4--,calcareous ,caves4-- ,chief ,entrances into the ,town4--,shutting the ,town ,gates4-- ,public ,establishments4--,inhabitants4--,elliot t's ,gardens4--,the ,isthmus1 or ,neutral ,ground4--,algeziras4--,ceuta4--,commerc e and ,navigation4--,excellent ,regulation in the ,english ,navy relative to ,officers' ,outfit4--,small-pox appears on board the ,caroline4--,departure from ,gibraltar4--,a ,fata ,morgana4--,the ,novara passes the ,straits4--,takes leave of ,europe4--,voyage to ,madeira4--,floating ,bottles to ascertain the ,currents4-- ,arrival in the ,roads of ,funchal4 #bi ,,chapter ,,iv4 ,,madeira4 ,first ,impressions4--,difficulty in ,landing4--,description of the ,island4--,history4--,unfavourable ,political ,circumstances connected with the ,cultivation of the ,ground4--,aqueducts4-- ,first ,planting of the ,sugar-cane4--,culture of the ,vine4--,its ,disease and ,decay4--,cochineal as a ,compensation for its ,loss4-- ,prospects of ,success4--,climate4--,a favourable ,winter ,residence for the ,consumptive4--,strangers4--,first ,appearance of the ,cholera4--,observations with the ,ozonometer4--,great ,distress among the ,lower ,classes4--,liberal ,assistance from ,england4-- ,decline of ,commerce4--,inhabitants and their ,mode of ,life4-- ,decrease of the ,population1 and its ,causes4--,benevolent ,institutions4--,public ,libraries4--,the ,cathedral4--,barracks4-- ,prison4--,environs of ,funchal4--,excursion to ,st4 ,anna4--,ascent of the ,pico ,ruivo4--,singular ,sledge ,party4--,return to ,funchal4--,departure4 #eh ,,chapter ,v4 ,,rio ,,de ,,janeiro4 ,brazil the ,land of ,contrasts4--,appearance of the ,city of ,rio and its ,environs4--,excursion to the ,peak of ,corcovado1 and the ,tejuca ,waterfalls4--,germans in ,rio4--,brazilian ,literary ,men4-- ,assac 7,hura ,brasiliensis47--,snake-bite as an ,antidote against ,leprosy4--,public ,institutions4--,negroes of the ,mozambique ,coast4--,the ,house of ,misericordia4--,lunatic ,asylum4--,botanical ,garden4--,public ,instruction4-- ,historico-,geographical ,institution4--,palstra ,scientifica4-- ,military ,academy4--,library4--,conservatory of ,music4--,sanitary ,police4--,yellow ,fever and ,cholera4--,water ,party on the ,bay4-- ,chamber of ,deputies4--,petropolis4--,condition of the ,slave ,population4--,prospects of ,german ,emigration4--,suitability of ,brazil as a ,market for ,german ,commerce4--,natural ,products1 and ,exchange of ,manufactures4--,audience of the ,emperor and ,empress4--,extravagant ,waste of ,powder for ,salvoes4--,songs of the ,sailors4--,departure from ,rio4--,retrospect4--,south-east ,trades4--,cape ,pigeons4--,albatrosses--,cape ,tormentoso4--,a ,storm at the ,cape4--,various ,methods of ,measuring the ,height of ,waves4--,arrival in ,simon's ,bay4 #aba ,,chapter ,,vi4 ,,cape ,,of ,,good ,,hope4 ,contrasts of ,scenery and ,seasons at ,cape ,colony4--,ramble through ,simon's ,town4--,malay ,population4--,the ,toad-fish1 or ,sea-devil4--,rondebosch and its delightful ,scenery4--,cape ,town4--,influence of the ,english ,element4--,scientific and other ,institutions4--,botanical ,gardens4--,useful ,plants4--,foreign ,emigration4--,a ,caffre ,prophet and the ,consequences of his ,prophecies4--,caffre ,prisoners in the ,armstrong ,battery4--,five young ,caffres take ,service as ,sailors on ,board the ,novara4-- ,trip into the ,interior4--,stellenbosch4--,paarl4--,wo rcester4-- ,brand ,vley4--,the ,mission of ,moravian ,brethren at ,genaadendal4-- ,masticatories and intoxicating ,substances used by the ,hottentots4--,caledon4--,somerset ,west4--,zandvliet4--,tomb of a ,malay ,prophet4--,horse ,sickness4--,tsetse-fly4--,vineyards of ,constantia4--,fte ,champtre in ,honour of the ,novara4-- ,excursion to the actual ,cape of ,good ,hope4--,departure4--,a ,life saved4--,experiments with ,brook's ,deep-sea ,sounding ,apparatus4-- ,arrival at the ,island of ,st4 ,paul in the ,south ,indian ,ocean4 #aif ,,chapter ,,vii4 ,,the ,,islands ,,of ,,st4 ,,paul ,,and ,,amsterdam1 ,,in ,,the ,,south ,,indian ,,ocean4 ,former ,history4--,importance of the ,situation of ,st4 ,paul4-- ,present ,inhabitants4--,preliminary ,observations4--,to whom do the ,islands belong8--,fisheries4--,hot springs4--,singular ,experiment4--,penguins4--,disembarkatio n4--,inclement ,weather4-- ,remarks on the ,climate of the ,island4--,cultivation of ,european ,vegetables4--,animal ,life4--,library in a ,fisherman's ,hut4-- ,narrative of old ,viot4--,re-embarkation4--,an official ,document left behind4--,some ,results obtained during the ,stay of the ,expedition4--,visit to the ,island of ,amsterdam4--,whalers4-- ,search for a ,landing-place4--,remarks on the ,natural ,history of the ,islands4--,a ,conflagration4--,comparison of the ,two ,islands4--,a ,rencontre at ,sea4--,trade-wind4--,christmas at ,sea4--,a man overboard6--,cingalese ,canoe4--,arrival at ,point de ,galle1 in ,ceylon4 #bfg ,,chapter ,,viii4 ,,ceylon4 ,neglect of the ,island hitherto by the ,english ,government4-- ,better ,prospects for the ,future4--,the ,cingalese1 their ,language and ,customs4--,buddhism and its ,ordinances4--,visit to a ,buddhist ,temple in the ,vicinity of ,galle4--,the sacred ,bo-tree4--,other ,aborigines of ,ceylon4--,the ,weddhs4-- ,traditions as to their ,origin4--,galle as a ,city and ,harbour4-- ,snake-charmers4--,departure for ,colombo4--,cultivation of the ,cocoa-nut ,palm a benevolent1 ,buddha-pleasing work4-- ,polyandria2 or1 ,community of ,husbands--,supposed ,origin4-- ,annual ,exportation of ,cocoa-nuts4--,rest-houses for ,travellers4--,curry the national ,dish4--,a ,misfortune and its ,consequences4--,the ,catholic ,mission of ,st4 ,sebastian de ,makn1 and ,father ,miliani4--,annoying ,delays with restive ,horses4-- ,colombo4--,a ,stroll through the ,pettah1 or ,black ,town4--,ice ,trade of the ,americans with ,tropical ,countries4--,cinnamon ,gardens and ,cinnamon ,cultivation4--,consequences of the ,monopoly of ,cinnamon4--,rise and ,expansion of the ,coffee ,culture in ,ceylon4--,pearl-fishery4--,latest ,examination of the ,ceylon ,banks of ,pearl ,oysters1 by ,dr4 ,kelaart1 and its ,results4--,aripo at the ,season of ,pearl-fishing4--,the ,divers4-- ,pearl-lime1 a chewing ,substance of wealthy ,malays4--,annual ,profit of the ,pearl-fishery4--,origin of the ,pearl4--,poetry and ,natural ,science4--,artificial ,production of the ,pearl4--,the ,chank-shell4--,the ,wealth of ,ceylon in ,precious ,stones4--,visit to a ,cocoa-nut ,oil ,manufactory4--,the ,cowry-shell1 a ,promoter of the ,slave ,trade4--,discovery of valuable ,cingalese ,,mss4 on ,palm-leaves4--,the heroic ,poem of ,mahawanso1 and ,turnour's ,english ,translation of it4--,hospitality of ,english ,officials in ,colombo4--,a second ,visit to ,father ,miliani4--,agreeable ,reception4--,the ,antidote-oil against ,bites of ,poisonous ,snakes4--,adventures on the ,journey back to ,galle4--,ascent of ,adam's ,peak by two ,members of the ,expedition4--,the ,sacred ,footprint4--,descent4--,the ,bullock-bandy1 or ,native ,waggon4-- ,departure from ,galle for ,madras4--,the ,bassos 7,shallows74--,a ,berlin ,rope-dancer among the ,passengers4--,nyctalopia2 or1 ,night ,blindness4--,fire on ,board4--,arrival in ,madras ,roads4 #cde ,,chapter ,,ix4 ,,madras4 ,catamarans and ,masuli ,boats4--,difficulty of ,disembarkation1 and ,plans for remedying it4--,history4--,brahminism4--,festival in ,honour of ,vishn4--,employment of ,heathens under a ,christian ,government4--,politics and ,religion4--,laws of ,brahminic ,faith4-- ,the ,observatory4--,museum of ,natural ,history and ,zoological ,garden4--,academy of ,fine ,arts4--,medical ,school4--,infirmary4-- ,orphan ,asylum4--,dr4 ,bell4--,lancastrian ,method of ,teaching ,children first ,applied in ,madras4--,colonel ,mackenzie's ,collection of ,indian ,inscriptions and ,,mss4--,the ,palace of the former ,nabob of the ,coromandel ,coast4--,journey by ,rail to ,vellore4--,fte given by the ,governor in ,guindy ,park4--,visit to the ,monolithic ,monuments of ,mahamalaipuram4--,excursion to ,pulicat ,lake4--,madras ,club4--,fte in ,honour of the ,members of the ,novara ,expedition4--,tiffin and ,dance on ,board4-- ,departure from ,madras4--,zodiacal ,light4--,shrove ,tuesday in the ,tropics4--,arrival at the ,island of ,kar-,nicobar4 #dbd ,,list ,,of ,,illustrations4 ,,vol4 ,i4 ,,page ,the ,track ,of ,the ,austrian ,imperial ,frigate ,novara4 frontispiece ,letter4 iii ,letter ,continued4 iv ,notes4 xvi ,departure4 #a ,gun-room of the ,novara4 #d ,plate3 ,vertical ,section of the ,frigate ,novara4 #g ,geodetical and ,astronomical ,instruments4 #aj ,look-out ,man4 #aa ,track from ,triest ,to ,madeira4 #aa ,palinurus4 #af ,seamen off duty4 #ba ,view of ,gibraltar from ,seaward4 #bh ,rock of ,gibraltar4 #bi ,rock ,cavern in ,gibraltar4 #cd ,south ,gate1 ,gibraltar4 #ch ,inhabitant of ,frangola4 #dg ,cape ,trafalgar4 #eb ,loo ,rock 7,madeira74 #eg ,scene in ,madeira4 #eh ,bridge over the ,ribeiro ,seco4 #gj ,carapua1 or ,cap worn by the ,natives of ,madeira4 #ia ,cathedral of ,madeira4 #ie ,sleigh party in ,madeira4 #ig ,village of ,fayal4 #ii ,el ,homem em pi4 #aja ,erica ,trees4 #ajc ,track ,from ,madeira to ,rio ,di ,janeiro4 #ajg ,cape ,frio4 #abj ,the ,quay at ,rio4 #aba ,island of ,paquit1 ,bay of ,rio4 #aef ,track from ,rio ,di ,janeiro to the ,cape ,of ,good ,hope4 #ahb ,cabo ,tormentoso4 #aie ,cape ,town4 #aif ,rifle ,volunteer ,fte at ,stellenbosch4 #bag ,paine's ,kloef as it was4 #bbj ,paine's ,kloef as it is4 #bbj ,crossing the ,breede ,river4 #bbf ,hot ,springs of ,brand ,vley4 #bbg ,hottentot ,huts at ,genaadendal4 #bcc ,church and ,mission ,houses of the ,moravian ,settlement at ,genaadendal4 #bcg ,tomb of a ,malay ,prophet at ,zandvliet4 #bde ,interior of the ,mausoleum4 #bdf ,tsetse ,fly4 #beb ,track from the ,cape ,of ,good ,hope to ,st4 ,paul's ,island4 #bei ,arrival at ,st4 ,paul4 #bff ,view of ,st4 ,paul4 #bfg ,distant view of ,crater-,basin of ,st4 ,paul4 #bge ,rainy day at ,st4 ,paul4 #cjj ,track from ,st4 ,paul to ,point ,de ,galle 7,ceylon74 #cji ,cingalese ,canoe4 #cdd ,view of ,adam's ,peak from ,colombo4 #cde ,buddha ,temple near ,galle4 #cec ,interior of a ,house at ,galle4 #cei ,track from ,point ,de ,galle ,to ,madras4 #dah ,masuli ,boat at ,madras4 #dbc ,view of ,madras 7and ,proposed ,pier74 #dbd ,the ,holy ,mountain4 #deh ,the god ,ganeza4 #dfa ,bivouac at ,mahamalaipuran4 #dfd ,bas-relief on one of the ,monolith ,temples4 #dfg ,entrance to ,one of the ,temples4 #dgj ,track from ,madras to the ,nicobar ,islands4 #dhj ,arrival at ,kar-,nicobar4 #dhb ,illustration3 ,,letter4 ,transcriber's ,note3 ,the text of the letter above1 along with supplemental address information1 are in the first volume of the ,german edition3 ,sr4 ,hochwohlgeboren dem ,herrn ,oberst von ,wllerstorf1 kais4 kn4 ,linienschiffs-,capitn1 ,befehlshaber ,s4 ,maj4 ,fregatte ,novara1 ,ritter hoher ,orden c4 c4 c4 in ,triest4 ,hochwohlgeborener ,herr1 ,hochzuverehrender ,herr ,oberst1 k4 k4 ,linien-,schiffs-,capitn4 ,ew4 ,hochwohlgeb4 wollen1 als ,befehlshaber ,sr4 ,maj4 ,fregatte ,novara1 die zu einem groen1 edeln1 das deutsche ,vaterland und die ,wissenschaft ehrenden ,unternehmen durch kaiserliche ,huld bestimmt ist1 den ,ausdruck meiner ,verehrung nachsichtsvoll empfangen1 indem ich1 von der ,zeit naher ,abfahrt in halber ,genesung bedrngt1 es wage1 ,ihnen einige physikalische und geognostische ,erinnerungen ganz gehorsamst vorzulegen1 von denen ,einiges vielleicht den ausgezeichneten ,gelehrten1 die die ,expedition zu begleiten das ,glck haben1 von ,nuzen sein kann4 ,ich wrde dies ,wenige nicht angeboten haben1 wenn eine so gendige und liebenswrdige ,aufforderung ,sr4 kaiserl4 ,hoheit des ,herrn ,erzherzogs ,ferdinand ,maximilian mich nicht dazu bestimmt htte4 ,was ich ,nautisches ber ,richtung und ,temperatur der ,meeresstrhmungen1 ber die magnetischen ,curven eingeflochten habe1 mu ich besonders ,ihrer ,nachsicht empfehlen4 ,wenn man erinnert1 scheint man belehren zu wollen1 und von dieser ,anmaung bin ich weit entfernt4 ,da kein ,entwurf1 keine ,abschrift meiner1 wenigstens fleiigen1 mit ,zahlen berladenen ,arbeit existirt1 so wre es vielleicht vorsichtig1 sie von ,jemand1 der der behandelten ,gegenstnde kundig ist1 abschreiben zu lassen4 ,meine gelehrten und mir lieben ,freunde ,dr4 ,ferdinand ,hochstetter1 ,dr4 ,karl ,scherzer und ,dr4 ,robert ,lallemant1 der mich bei seiner letzten ,durchreise durch ,berlin1 um mir sein wichtiges ,werk ber das ,gelbe ,fieber in der ,tropenzone zu geben1 verfehlt hat1 wage ich dringend ,ihrem besonderen ,schuze und ,wohlwollen zu empfehlen4 ,mit der innigsten ,verehrung und den heiesten ,wnschen fr den ,erfolg eines so schn vorbereiteten ,unternehmens ,ew4 ,hochwohlgeboren gehorsamster ,al4 ,humboldt4 ,berlin1 den #g4 ,april #aheg ,nachts4 ,,physical ,,and ,,geognostic ,,suggestions1 ,,by ,,alexander ,,von ,,humboldt4 ,in compliance with the gracious invitation which ,h4,i4,h4 the ,archduke ,ferdinand ,maximilian was pleased to address to me from ,trieste 7,december #abth1 #ahef71 and as yet barely recovered from an indisposition1 ,i jot down these hasty notes1 without presuming to give definite instructions1 such as those ,i drew up1 conjointly with ,m4 ,arago1 for the guidance of the ,french expeditions1 or for ,lord ,minto1 then ,first ,lord of the ,admiralty1 on the occasion of the ,antarctic ,voyage of ,discovery of ,sir ,james ,ross 7#ahdj-dc74 ,the following pages consist simply of hints which may possibly prove serviceable to the distinguished and highly informed gentlemen1 who have the good fortune to sail on board the ,imperial ,frigate1 ,novara1 under the command of ,commodore von ,wllerstorf4 ,with two of these savans1 ,dr4 ,ferdinand ,hochstetter and ,dr4 ,karl ,scherzer1 ,i have had the pleasure1 here in ,berlin1 to agree verbally on various subjects4 ,as ,i do not exactly know what course it is intended the ,novara shall follow in navigating the ,atlantic1 nor in what meridian it is proposed to cross the ,equator1 7in conformity with the sound and useful directions of my friend ,lieut4 ,maury1 of ,washington71 on her voyage to ,rio de ,janeiro1 nor how near she shall keep to ,cape ,san ,roque and ,fernando de ,noronha1 ,i must content myself with inviting the attention of the voyagers in a general way to the temperature of the sea1 as also to the variations and aberrations of the magnetic curves1 and their currents4 ,a lower degree of temperature is usually observed ,w4 of the ,canaries1 and ,cape ,verde ,islands1 commencing with the ,salvages1 the thermometer indicating as low as #gbg ,fahr4 ,this has been already ascertained by ,mr4 ,charles ,deville1 in his chart of temperature on the voyage aux ,antilles1 ,tnriffe et ,fogo4 ,i consider this diminution of temperature results from the ,north ,guinea current1 bringing with it cold water from the north southwards as far as the ,bight of ,biafra and the ,river ,gaboon1 at which point it is encountered by an opposite current flowing northwards along the south-western coast of ,africa from ,loando and ,congo4 ,in #ahbe1 ,captain ,duperrey had accurately laid down the point of intersection of the magnetic1 with the terrestrial equator4 ,in #ahcg1 we learned from ,sabine's investigations of magnetic inclination near the ,island of ,st4 ,thomas 7on the ,equator1 adjoining the above portion of the coast of ,africa71 that this point of intersection had already shifted four degrees to the westward4 ,a period of twenty years having elapsed since ,sabine's expedition for determining observations with the pendulum1 it would be most desirable that fresh investigations should be made in that neighbourhood1 for the purpose of verifying the secular changes of all magnetic curves1 especially with regard to their variation4 ,in #ahdj1 the line of no declination in ,america began #i #cj' ,e4 of ,south ,georgia1 whence it ran to the ,s4,e4 coast of ,brazil1 near ,cape ,frio1 thus traversing the mainland of ,south ,america only between the latter point and the parallel of #j #cf' ,s41 when it leaves the continent a little to the east of ,gran ,par1 near ,cape ,tigioca1 cutting the terrestrial equator again1 but in #ej #f' ,w4 ,according to ,bache's ,map of ,equal ,magnetic ,declination1 it reaches the coast of ,north ,america near ,cape ,fear1 to the south-west of ,cape ,lookout4 ,this line1 along which the magnetic declination is nil1 extends to a point in ,lake ,erie1 #b #dj' ,w4 of ,toronto1 where the declination is already #a #bg' ,w4#b ,footnote #b3 ,wherever1 in this paper1 it is not precisely expressed to the contrary1 the scale of the ,centigrade ,thermometer1 the longitude from the ,meridian of ,paris1 the ,french foot 7pied du roi#abgi inches ,english71 and the geographical mile1 #ae to a degree of the ,equator1 measuring #chjg toises1 are meant4 ,it is evident from the observations of ,captains ,beechey and ,findley1 and still more particularly from those of the ,french ,captain ,kerhallet1 that the remarkable subdivision of the main equinoctial current1 flowing from east to west into two branches1 one directed to the ,n4,w41 the other to the ,s4,s4,w41 commences at a considerable distance from the ,capes of ,st4 ,roque and ,st4 ,augustin4 ,this bifurcation has always1 and with good reason1 been ascribed to the protruding convexity of the ,south ,american continent at these two promontories4 ,it would be an important step gained in verifying the theory of currents1 could the precise distance be ascertained by chronometer4 ,it is apparently like an actio in distans1 probably a phenomenon of what is known as packing4 ,as the frigate1 on leaving ,rio de ,janeiro is to make for the ,cape of ,good ,hope1 the opportunity will present1 should she steer sufficiently southerly1 for many interesting observations with respect to the connecting current ,w4,n4,w4 and ,e4,s4,e4 which encounters that from ,madagascar and ,mozambique1 close to the ,cape1 more especially with regard to the temperature of the sea4 ,if the frigate is intended to approach the small cluster of islands of ,fernando de ,noronha1 ,e4 of ,pernambuco 7,lat4 #c #ej' ,s471 ,i would recommend to that excellent geognostic1 ,dr4 ,hochstetter1 the hornblendic phonolithe rock found there1 far from a volcanic crater1 but with trachytic dykes and basaltic amygdaloid4 ,the flat little island of ,st4 ,paul 7,peedo de ,san ,pedro71 #a ,n4 ,lat41 singular to say1 is not volcanic at all1 containing1 like the ,malouin or ,falkland ,islands1 slaty green-stone passing into serpentine4 ,should the frigate alter her course and cross the ,equator more to the eastward1 without touching at ,rio de ,janeiro1 she might possibly fall in with the ,marine ,volcanic region1 7,lat4 #j #bj' ,s41 ,long4 #bb ,w471 which has quite lately become famous again by the ,u4 ,s4 ,expedition of the ,brig ,dolphin 7#ahed71 commanded by ,lieutenant ,lee4 ,on #aith ,may1 #ahjf1 columns of black smoke were seen issuing from the sea by ,krusenstern1 and volcanic ashes were gathered1 after a singular bubbling of the sea from #agdh to #ahcf1 according to careful investigations by ,daussy4 ,as the frigate is commissioned to visit ,ceylon and the ,nicobar ,islands1 she cannot sail direct from the ,cape to ,australia2 and the hope must therefore be abandoned of her visiting the small basaltic islands1 known as ,prince ,edward's 7#dg #b' ,s41 #ch ,e471 and ,possession 7#df #bh' ,s41 #dg #cj' ,e471 belonging to the ,crozet's ,group1 or the two islands1 long confounded with each other1 of ,amsterdam 7,lat4 #cg #dh' ,s47 and ,st4 ,paul 7,lat4 #ch #ch' ,s47 ,the latter island1 the more southerly of the two1 7a very characteristic drawing of which was given by ,willem de ,vlaming so far back as #afif71 is supposed to be volcanic1 not only by its form1 which will at once remind the geologist of ,santorin1 ,barren ,island1 and ,deception ,island1 7one of the ,new ,shetland group71 but also in consequence of the eruption of steam1 and the flames occasionally observed there4 ,as for ,amsterdam1 which consists of a single densely-wooded mountain1 the puzzle remains for solution as to how1 during the expedition of ,d',entrecasteaux in #agib1 the whole island seemed1 during two entire days1 enveloped in smoke2 whereas1 on landing there1 the naturalists of that expedition were satisfied that the mountain was not an active volcano1 and that the columns of steam issued out of the ground near the shore6 ,as yet1 the phenomenon remains entirely unexplained4 ,if we examine any map of the ,indian ,ocean1 we may trace the continuation of the ,sunda group from ,sumatra1 ,n4,w41 through the ,nicobar1 and ,great and ,little ,andaman ,islands1 and thence through the volcanoes of ,barren ,island1 ,narcondam and ,cheduba1 nearly parallel with the coasts of ,malacca and ,tenasserim1 all on the eastern part of the ,bay of ,bengal4 ,the minor volcanoes just enumerated will present valuable opportunities of geological enquiry4 ,along the coasts of ,orissa and ,coromandel1 the western portion of the ,bay of ,bengal is quite free of islands1 ,ceylon1 like ,madagascar presenting rather the type of a continent4 ,off the ,w4 coast of the peninsula of ,india1 7that is opposite the ,neilgherrie hills1 and the coast of ,canara and ,malabar71 there is a series of three archipelagoes1 extending from #ad ,n4 to #h ,s41 viz41 the ,laccadives1 the ,maldives1 and the ,chagos1 which appears1 as it were1 continued through the banks of ,sahia di ,malha1 and ,cargados ,carajos1 to the volcanic group of the ,mascarenhas and ,madagascar4 ,as the first-named archipelagoes1 so far as is yet known1 consist solely of coral1 and are1 consequently1 true atolls1 or reef-lagoons1 the bottom of the ocean should be examined over a large extent1 adopting the ingenious hypothesis of ,darwin1 that it is to be considered as an area of subsidence1 rather than an elevated region4 ,it would also be a matter of great importance to get observations respecting terrestrial magnetism1 particularly so as to define the position of a given segment of the magnetic equator4 ,capt4 ,elliott1 as the result of his comprehensive studies1 7#ahdf-di71 ascertained that the magnetic equator passes through the north end of ,borneo1 and thence nearly due ,w4 to the northern extremity of ,ceylon4 ,in this region the curve of minimum intensity is nearly parallel to the magnetic equator1 which intersects the ,continent of ,africa near ,cape ,guardafui--according to ,rochet d',hricourt1 in lat4 #aj #g' ,n41 long4 #ch #e'4 ,e4 ,between this point and the ,bight of ,biafra nothing is known4 ,the ,south ,asiatic islands comprise ,formosa1 the ,philippines1 the ,sunda group1 and the ,moluccas4 ,the great and little ,sunda ,islands and the ,moluccas embrace #aji volcanoes1 with fiery eruptions1 and #aj what are called mud-volcanoes4 ,this is not a mere estimate1 but is the result of an enumeration by ,junghuhn1 who1 within the last year 7#ahef71 has returned to ,java1 and thoroughly equipped by ,m4 ,pahud1 ,governor-,general of the ,indian ,netherlands1 will be of great assistance to the ,imperial ,expedition4 ,an exact mineralogical determination of the volcanic rocks 7trachytes7 is unfortunately wanting everywhere4 ,the most active volcano of ,sumatra is the ,gunung ,merapi 7#hihj feet71 which must not be confounded with a volcano in ,java1 of the same name4 ,that of ,sumatra was ascended by ,dr4 ,l4 ,horner1 and ,dr4 ,korthals in #ahcd4 ,we may pronounce ,indrapura 7#aa1ejj feet1 but this measurement is very uncertain71 and ,gunung ,pasoman 7#ijaj feet71 the ,ophir of our maps1 to be utterly unknown geologically4 ,the highest of the ,java volcanoes is ,gunung ,semeru 7#aa1dhj feet71 ascended by ,junghuhn in #ahdd1 #abbj feet higher than the ,etna4 ,the largest craters of the #de which are disposed in a line along the shores of ,java1 are ,gunung ,tengger1 and ,gunung ,raou4 ,dr4 ,junghuhn has recently given the outlines of each separate volcano in his splendid topographical and geological map of ,java1 in four sheets1 published in #ahef1 which does great credit to the ,dutch ,government4 ,the following subjects are worthy of special attention while the frigate is at ,java4 #a4 ,the curious phenomenon of the ribbed surface4 7,vide ,junghuhn1 ,java1 ,part ,,ii41 p4 #fjh47 #b4 ,the disposition1 as yet unaccounted for1 of a series of regularly-shaped hills1 formed by the mud-streams ejected in the year #ahbb by the volcano of ,gunung ,galungung4 7,vide ut supr1 pp4 #abg-gca47 #c4 ,the ejection of water by the ,gunung ,idjen1 on #bast ,january1 #ahag1 7pp4 #gjg1 and #gag-aba74 #d4 ,the erroneousness of the assertion that the volcanoes of the ,island of ,java do not emit streams of real lava4 ,it must be admitted that the mighty ,javanese volcano1 ,gunung ,merapi1 already alluded to1 has not1 within the historic period1 presented any coherent compact streams of lava1 but mere fragments and boulders2 although in #ahcg1 lines of fire were seen running uninterruptedly from the top down the sides of the cones in eruption4 ,but each of the three volcanoes1 ,tengger1 ,idjen1 and ,slamat1 present examples of black lava currents1 descending as far as the tertiary strata4 ,streams of stone-boulders1 red-hot1 similar to those of the ,cotopaxi1 but scarcely touching each other1 flowed from ,gunung ,lamorgan on #fth ,july1 #ahch4 ,no active volcano is known in the island of ,borneo4 ,the highest mountain of the whole island1 perhaps of the whole insular world of ,southern ,asia1 is the ,hina ,balu 7#ab1hej feet87 on the northern point of ,borneo4 ,it is as yet unexplored4 ,according to ,dr4 ,lewis ,horner1 son of the astronomer of the ,krusenstern expedition1 there occur among the syenite and serpentine mountain range of ,rathus1 on the ,s4,e4 of the island1 deposits yielding gold 7which has even been worked by diggings71 diamonds1 platinum1 iridium1 and osmium1--presenting1 in fact1 a similar association to those of the ,ural mountains4 ,no mention is made of palladium4 ,rajah 7now ,sir ,james7 ,brooke describes in the province of ,sarawak in ,borneo1 a low hill1 ,gunung ,api 7hill of fire in ,malay71 the slags of which attest former volcanic activity4 ,a visit to ,borneo would be of very great service4 ,there are eleven volcanoes in ,celebes1 and six in ,flores1 all active4 ,it is still uncertain whether the conical mountain ,wawari1 or ,atiti1 which is more generally known as the volcano of the island of ,amboyna1 ever poured out anything except hot mud 7#afgd71 or whether it should be merely classed as a solfatara4 ,the main group of the ,south ,asiatic ,islands is connected through the ,moluccas and the ,philippines with the ,papua and ,pellew islands1 and the ,caroline ,archipelago of the ,south ,sea4 ,the most important geological fact to be remarked with reference to the island of ,formosa1 abounding in mineral coals1 is the break in the line of direction of the open vents1 when1 instead of ,n4,e4 to ,s4,w41 the central line follows the meridian line1 which it pursues nearly as far as #f ,s41 passing through ,formosa and the ,philippine ,islands 7,luzon and ,mindanao71 respecting which deviation nothing certain is known1 and in which region every mountain of conical shape1 or outline is invariably set down as a volcano1 even though there should be no indications of a crater4 ,the ,sooloo ,archipelago forms the connecting link between the islands of ,borneo and ,mindanao1 the long1 narrow island of ,palawan1 constituting that between ,borneo and ,mindoro4 ,the ,island of ,yesso1 separated from that of ,niphon by the ,straits of ,sangar1 or ,tsugar1 and from the islands of ,krafto 7,saghalien7 and ,tschoka1 or ,tarakai1 by the ,straits of ,la ,prouse1 connects1 through its ,north ,eastern ,cape1 with the archipelago of the ,kuriles4 ,from ,broughton's ,southern ,vulcan ,bay up to its northernmost point1 ,yesso is traversed by an uninterrupted range of volcanoes--a fact the more worthy of being recorded1 as in the expedition of ,la ,prouse there were found red porous lavas1 as well as wide areas1 covered with slags1 in the ,baie des ,castries1 in the narrow island of ,krafto 7,saghalien71 which is1 as it were1 merely a continuation of ,yesso4 ,in our own day these regions command a higher interest1 from a political point of view1 more especially since ,russia1 dissatisfied with the situation of ,okhotsk1 at the sanded mouth of the ,amoor1 was anxious1 after the destruction of ,petropaulowski1 on the coast of ,kamtschatka1 to obtain1 on the ,s4,e4 coast1 a harbour suitable for a military station4 ,among the three islands which form the main portion of the ,japanese ,empire1 six volcanoes are known to have had eruptions in the historic period4 ,the volcano1 ,fusi ,jama1 in ,niphon1 province of ,suruga 7,lat4 #ce #ah' ,n41 ,long4 #acf #ae' ,e41 altitude #aa1fge feet71 is said to have risen out of the plain #bhf years before the ,christian era4 ,its last eruption was in #agjg4 ,the volcano1 ,asama ,jama1 in the district of ,saku1 between the meridians of the two capitals1 ,miaco and ,jeddo1 was last in eruption in #aghc4 ,on the island of ,kiusiu1 adjoining the peninsula of ,corea1 four volcanoes are situated1 from one of which1 called ,wanzen1 there was a most destructive eruption in #agic4 ,the beautiful work of ,commodore ,perry1 ,u4,s4,n41 detailing his mission to ,japan1 on the part of the ,united ,states ,government1 in #aheb1 containing excellent photographs of races1 as also drawings by the ,berlin artist1 ,wilhelm ,heine1 does not1 as yet1 comprise the scientific results of that expedition4 ,proceeding northwards1 the volcanoes are more densely crowded1 and are found arranged in series4 ,of the fifty-four which ,i enumerated as still in activity among the islands of ,eastern ,asia1 there are thirty-four on the ,aleutian1 and ten on the ,kurile ,islands4 ,the ,peninsula of ,kamtschatka contains nine volcanoes1 which have been in activity within the historic period4 ,lying under the #edth and #fjth degrees of northern latitude1 we see a long strip of sea-bottom between two continents undergoing a perpetual process of destruction and re-arrangement4 ,the ,south ,sea1 the superficial extent of which is one-sixth greater than that of the entire solid crust of our planet1 actually presents a smaller number of active volcanoes1 less vents for communication between the centre of the earth and its atmospheric envelope1 than the single ,island of ,java6 ,out of #dj volcanic cones1 including those which are extinct1 only #bf have been seen in eruption during the historic period4 ,they are not scattered at random1 but1 on the contrary1 as was pointed out by ,mr4 ,james ,dana1 the ingenious geologist of the great ,united ,states ,exploring ,expedition1 under the command of ,capt4 ,wilkes 7#ahch-db71 they have been thrown up1 at widely extending clefts1 communicating by submarine mountain systems4 ,they are arranged in groups and distinct regions1 analogous to the mountain chains of ,central ,asia and ,armenia 7in the district of the ,caucasus71 and belong to two quite distinct systems1 one running ,s4,e4 to ,n4,w41 the other ,s4,s4,w4 to ,n4,n4,e4 ,in the ,hawaiian ,archipelago 7or ,sandwich ,island group71 we find ,mauna ,loa1 according to ,wilkes1 #ab1ijj feet in height1 which does not present any cone of volcanic scori 7resembling1 in this particular1 the volcanoes of the ,eifel71 but has emitted streams of lava4 ,the lava basin of ,killauea1 #ac1jjj feet in its greatest1 by #dhjj in its smallest diameter1 is not a solfatara1 but a true lateral vent on the flank of the powerful ,mauna ,loa itself1 exactly resembling the less elevated sheet of lava of ,arak4 ,mauna ,kea is #ahj feet higher than ,mauna ,loa1 but is extinct4 ,tafoa and ,amangura1 in the ,tonga group1 are still in eruption1 the last discharge of lava having occurred in ,july1 #ahdg4 ,the volcano of ,tanna was in full eruption during ,capt4 ,cook's ,voyage of ,discovery in #aggd1 as was also the volcano of ,ambrym1 west of ,malicollo in the archipelago of the ,new ,hebrides4 ,at the south point of ,new ,caledonia1 lies ,matthew's ,rock1 a small smoking rocky island4 ,the volcano of ,santa ,cruz1 ,n4,n4,w4 of ,tina ,kora1 with periodical eruptions occasionally occurring at intervals of #aj minutes1 had been already noticed as a volcano by ,mendana1 so far back as #aeie4 ,in the ,salomon ,archipelago1 there is found the volcano of ,sesarga1 while others are said to be in full activity in the ,marianas or ,ladrones1 just like those of ,guguan1 ,pagon1 and ,el ,volcan ,grande de ,asuncion1 which appear to have broken forth along a line that follows the meridian4 ,in ,new ,britannia1 three conical mountains were observed vomiting streams of lava1 by ,tasman1 ,carteret1 and ,labillardire4 ,there are two volcanoes in full activity on the north-east coast of ,new ,guinea1 opposite ,admiralty ,islands1 which themselves are so rich in obsidian4 ,in ,new ,zealand1 numerous regions abound in basaltic and trachytic rocks4 ,of active volcanoes there are ,puhia-i-,wakati 7the volcano of ,white ,island71 and the lofty cone of ,tongariro 7#ehaf feet74 ,to the absence of centres of volcanic agency in ,new ,caledonia1 where sedimentary formations and seams of coal have recently been discovered1 is ascribed the vast development of coral reefs4 ,dana was the first to ascend the ,peak of ,tafua1 in the ,island of ,upolu1 one of the ,samoa group1 not to be confounded with the still active volcano of ,tafoa1 south of ,amangura1 in the ,tonga ,archipelago4 ,dana found in it a crater overgrown with thick forest4 ,so1 too1 on the isolated ,vaihu or ,easter ,island group1 there is found a range of conical mountains with craters1 but inactive4 ,of the volcanic groups of the ,south ,sea1 the most violent is the farthest east1 adjoining the shores of the ,new ,world1 viz41 the archipelago of the ,gallipagos1 which consists of five considerable islands1 very admirably described by ,darwin4 ,there are streams of lava down to the very shore of the sea1 but no pumice4 ,some of the trachytic lavas are said to abound with crystals of albite4 ,it is important to examine whether or not this is oligoclase1 as on ,teneriffe1 ,popocatepetl1 and ,chimborazo2 or labradorite1 as on ,etna and ,stromboli4 ,palagonite1 exactly similar to that of ,iceland or in ,italy1 was discovered by ,bunsen in the specimens of tufa from ,chatham ,island1 one of the ,gallipagos4 ,new ,holland does not show any signs of recent volcanic activity1 except at its most southern point 7,australia ,felix71 at the foot of the ,grampian ,mountains4 ,n4,w4 from ,port ,philip1 as also towards the ,murray ,river1 there are numbers of volcanic cones and sheets or flows of lava4 ,it would be of great interest and utility to observe the relative inclinations of the ,magnetic and the ,geographical ,equators1 by means of the dip of the magnetic needle1 though this will be rendered more difficult1 from the fact of the ship's course being easterly1 that is1 contrary1 to the ,equinoctial current4 ,as regards the low temperature of the current1 which ,i discovered in #ahjb1 running up from #dj ,s4 to the ,gallipagos along the coast of ,south ,america1 and then turning westward1 it would be highly important to investigate whether in the eastern part of the ,south ,sea in #g ,n4 and between #aag and #adj ,w41 there really exists in every season a counter current from west to east4 ,but ,i need not enlarge upon this topic to such attentive navigators4 ,the line of no inclination was crossed six times by ,duperrey between #ahbb and #ahbe4 ,when ,i first discovered1 near ,truxillo1 the low temperature of the cold ,peruvian current1 it was #abh ,raumur 7#fjh ,fahr474 ,the temperature observed in the course of twenty years by ,mr4 ,dirckinck von ,holmfeld1 in the neighbourhood of ,callao1 expressed in degrees of ,raumur1 were as follows3-- ,september #ahjb #abh 7,fahr4 #fjh7 ,thermometer in the air4 ,november #abd 7 #eii7 #acc ,raumur4 ,december1 end of #afh 7 #fih7 7#faib ,fahr47 ,january #ahbe #abg 7 #fjeg7 ,february #aec 7 #ffdb7 ,march #aeg 7 #fgcb7 ,april #ade 7 #fdfb7 ,the temperature of the sea ,i found to be #bb ,raumur 7#hae ,fah47 north of ,cape ,blanco1 when on my way from ,callao de ,lima1 at which point the cold current diverged towards the ,gallipagos4 ,between the ,gulfs of ,guayaquil and ,panama1 north-east of the cold current1 the temperature of the sea during the month of ,april rose as high as #bde1 7#hgab ,fahr474 ,within the range of the current1 ,mr4 ,dirckinck had carried on his observations in compliance with my instructions1 by means of thermometers that had been compared by ,arago4 ,everywhere in the current1 in ,december #ahbd1 he found from #af to #ah 7#fh to #gbe ,fahr472 between ,quilca and ,callao1 in ,january1 #ahbe1 from #ah to #ai 7#gbe to #gdge ,fahr472 between ,chorillos1 near ,lima 7,lat4 #ab #ci' ,s47 and ,valparaiso1 in ,august1 #ahbe1 from #ach to #aje 7#fcje to #eefb ,fahr472 between ,chorillos and ,san ,carlos de ,chiloe1 in ,june1 #ahbe1 from #ahh to #ib 7#gdc to #ebg74 ,in sailing from the ,sandwich ,islands to the west coast of ,america1 the ,imperial ,expedition will have to choose between the ,ports of ,san ,francisco or ,acapulco4 ,the first choice would be of great mineralogical advantage for those regions of the ,united ,states1 lying ,north of the river ,gila4#c ,parallel with the chain of the ,rocky ,mountains1 which1 according to ,marcou1 contains up to the present day several volcanoes in full activity in its northern part 7,lat4 #df #ab' ,n471 run single1 and at certain points double ranges of coast chains from ,san ,diego to ,monterey1 from #cb #ae' ,n4 to #df #de' ,n4 ,they begin with the coast range specially so-called1 which is a continuation of the high ridge of the ,peninsula of ,lower or ,old ,california2 after which1 farther to the ,north1 there follow in succession1 first the ,sierra ,nevada di ,alta ,california1 between #cf and #ch ,n4 the lofty ,shasty mountains1 and the ,cascade ,range1 nearly twenty six miles distant from the littoral1 including many high and active volcanoes1 and extending far beyond ,fuca ,straits4 ,the following are still in eruption3--,mount ,st4 ,elias 7#df #b' ,n472 ,mount ,regnier1 or ,rainier1 7#df #df'72 and ,mount ,baker1 7#dh #dh'47 ,these three active cones would be most conveniently visited by the geologist of the expedition from ,san ,francisco1 as would likewise the whole ,cascade ,range4 ,we have as yet no certain intelligence as to the geology of the entire longitudinal auriferous valley of the ,sacramento ,river1 7where a trachytic crater1 in a state of disintegration1 is known as the ,butt of ,sacramento74 ,does the auriferous quartz occur in veins1 and are these still in situ1 or are they broken up8 ,what description of rock is traversed by these veins8 ,does the wash-gold here contain occasionally1 as in the ,ural ,mountains1 fragments of vein-stones with isolated cavities1 in which are found impressions of leaves and membranes1 clearly proving that they have not been rolled1 or transported by water1 any great distance to the spot they now occupy8 ,have these been found1 alongside of gold1 diamonds1 platinum1 osmium1 iridium1 or mercury8 ,footnote #c3 ,the ,gila falls into the ,colorado about forty miles above the embouchure of the latter into the head of the ,gulf of ,california4 ,should the frigate steer for ,acapulco1 it may be assumed that there exists an intention to cross the ,continent to ,mexico and ,vera ,cruz1 from the volcano of ,colima 7#ahgg toises7 as it were1 along the parallel of the range of volcanoes1 and greatest heights rising in detached groups between the two seas1 about the parallel of #ai ,n4 ,new astronomical observations are greatly needed for determining the position of the volcanoes of ,colima and ,jorullo 7#ffg toises74 ,the volcano of ,colima1 with its twin peaks de fuego and de nieve1 should be carefully examined1 as also the volcano of ,jorullo1 with the fragments of granite enclosed in its lava2 the ,nevado de ,toluca 7#bcgb toises71 ,popocatepetl 7#bggb toises71 ,itztaccihuatl 7#bdef toises71 ,cofre de ,perote 7#bjih toises71 and the volcano of ,tuxtla 7#ah #bh' ,n471 on the eastern slope of the ,sierra ,st4 ,martin1 from which a column of flame shot up with great violence on #bnd ,march1 #agic1 a fair specimen of what the ,spaniards term ,malpays1 the ,sicilians ,sciarra viva4 ,the face of the country is covered over with boulders of lava1 at ,san ,nicolas de los ,ranchos1 at the foot of ,popocatepetl1 adjoining the city of ,puebla de los ,angeles1 after which1 on the road from ,puebla to ,vera ,cruz1 will be observed two narrow strips of boulders of cooled basaltic lava1 rich in olivine4 ,similar examples will be found at ,parage de ,carros1 near ,tochtilacuaja and ,loma de ,tablas1 between ,cancas and the ,casas de la ,hoja4 ,the mere ascension of volcanic cones is geologically of far less importance1 than the bringing away numerous specimens1 carefully selected1 of various trachytic rocks1 which1 by their oryctognostical composition1 are characteristic of each volcano4 ,i would nevertheless recommend that the ,pico del ,fraile of the ,toluca volcano 7#bcgb toises7 should be ascended1 proper caution being used4 ,from this very sharp peak1 ,i brought away thin plates of trachyte perforated by lightning1 and within the holes of a melted glassy surface1 resembling those brought from ,little ,ararat4 ,both for the miner and geologist1 an interesting and useful visit might be paid to the rich mines of ,guanaxuato and the ,mines de la ,biscaina and ,regla1 on the road from ,mexico to ,real del ,monte1 so as to observe the close connection subsisting between the richer silver ores1 occurring in trachytic porphyry without quartz1 but with felspar1 7glassy felspar871 and the thoroughly volcanic ,cerro del ,jakal1 abounding in obsidian1 and the ,cerro de las ,navajas 7,razor ,range71 which remind one of the environs of ,schemnitz1 with the sole exception1 that the trachytes porphyres meulires of ,beudant1 are wanting here4 ,as it is highly desirable that considerable time should be devoted to the volcanoes of ,quito1 ,peru1 and ,chili1 it appears uncertain whether the course of the frigate1 on leaving ,acalpulco1 will be shaped direct for ,guayaquil1 thus reversing the route taken by myself1 or whether she will not touch at some of the central ,american ports--,realejo or ,sonsonate4 ,the crowded series of volcanoes in ,central ,america1 of which no less than eighteen1 conical or dome-shaped1 may be considered as still in active eruption1 would yield a rich harvest of facts of all kinds in elucidation of the theory of volcanic action1 such as have never hitherto been sufficiently taken advantage of4 ,we are still in need of the mineralogical determination of the rocks1 while the form and situation of the mountain masses have been well described by ,squier1 ,oersted1 and other modern travellers4 ,the greater number1 indeed1 of the eruptions of scori and slag were unaccompanied by streams of lava1 as1 for example1 those of ,mount ,isalco1 abounding in ammonia4 ,but recently eye-witnesses have furnished us with quite different accounts regarding these eruptions1 in the case of several volcanoes--as the ,nindiri 7a twin volcano with that called ,massaya71 on which ,dr4 ,scherzer has lately shed much light2 the ,volcano el ,nuevo1 erroneously called ,volcano de las ,pilas1 that of ,coseguina1 situated on the ,great ,bay of ,fonseca1 and that of ,san ,miguel de ,bosotlan1 from which there flowed an extensive stream of lava in ,july #ahdd4 ,it would be most tempting to pass by land from ,mexico southwards to ,oaxaca1 and thence to the ,isthmus of ,guasacualco or ,tehuantepec1 and ,chiapas1 so as to rejoin the frigate at ,realejo or ,sonsonate4 ,facts might be obtained1 in such a journey1 of great value in determining the dependence of geological phenomena on each other2 but it is to be feared it would be attended with too much fatigue and loss of time4 ,for similar reasons1 it cannot be proposed that the scientific gentlemen attached to the ,expedition1 should leave the frigate for three or four months1 when they reach ,central ,america1 in order to cross by rail the ,isthmus of ,panama1 with the object of examining the ,volcancitos of ,turbaco and ,gabra ,zamba1 both active1 and thence ascend the ,rio ,magdalena from ,carthagena de las ,indias1 as far as ,honda1 whence they could proceed by ,bogot and ,popayan to ,quit4 ,it will be also unavoidable to forego the examination of the sedimentary rocks1 rich in fossils1 between ,honda1 ,bogot and ,ibagues1 the ,mastodon fields 7,campos del ,gigante71 and the ,salto de ,tegumidama on the plateau of ,bogot1 the wax palm 7,ceroxylon ,andicola71 and the ,azufrales of the ,passo de ,quindiu1 the volcanoes of ,tolima1 measured by myself and ascended by ,boussingault1 and of ,paramo de ,ruiz 7#d #ae' ,n471 as also the two volcanoes of ,popayan1 the ,purac and the much more interesting but now extinct ,sotar4 ,as a middle course1 ,i may suggest a disembarkation1 not exactly at ,guayaquil1 but on the gold and platinum coast of the ,choco1 near ,san ,buenaventura1 so as to proceed thence to ,popayan1 and afterwards return to the volcanoes of the province of ,pasto1 which are highly important1 and so on to ,quit1 by way of ,guachucal1 ,tulcan1 and ,villa de ,ibarra1 rejoining the frigate only at ,guayaquil4 ,i believe1 however1 it would be more advisable to select ,quit as the starting-point1 whence to examine the important elevated volcanic region ,de los ,pastos 7between #b #bj' and #j #ef' ,n471 containing the volcano of the town of ,pasto1 the volcanoes of ,tuguerres1 ,chiles and ,cumbal1 and the ,azufral de ,pasto1 and not to land at any port of the ,choco coast1 not even from the ,bahia de ,cupica1 which for half a century ,i have recommended in vain on account of its vicinity to the ,rio ,naipi1 one of the tributaries of the ,atrato4 ,in drawing up a list of names of the volcanoes of the renowned lofty plateau of ,quit1 ,i may include1 ,imbaburu1 ,cotocachi1 ,rucu1 ,pichincha1 ,antisana1 the much-disputed question of the stony walls like streams of lava1 on the east slope of ,tana ,volcan1 and ,reventazon de ,ansango2 ,cotopaxi1 with its strange inexplicable quarries of pumice1 of ,guapecho and ,zumbalica1 in the neighbourhood of ,llactacunga and ,san ,felipe1 the pumice containing oligoclase1 not glassy felspar1 deposited in strata1 like any rock in situ for a considerable distance on all sides of ,cotopaxi2 ,tunguragua 7mica slate71 studded with garnets1 and beds of granite1 which dip under the former1 and have themselves been pierced by the trachytes of ,tungurahua at ,rio ,puela and the ,hacienda de ,ganace2 the hills of ,moya1 near the village of ,pelilco1 cast up in the celebrated earthquake of #gth ,february1 #agig1 and still in a state of activity2 the ,chimborazo1 which ,m4 ,jules ,rmy1 accompanied by an ,englishman named ,princkley1 was in the belief they had ascended1 on the #crd of ,november1 #ahef1 to the very summit1 mais sans s'en douter4 ,poggendorff1 7,vol4 ,x4 p4 #dhj71 has clearly demonstrated that the boiling point given by ,rmy for the summit1 would not give #fedd mtres 7little different from my own trigonometrical admeasurement of #fecj mtres71 but fully #gcbh mtres4 ,as ,i distrust my own half-barometical measurements1 ,i have vainly implored travellers1 these fifty years past1 to have a new series of trigonometrical observations made of the summit of ,chimborazo4 ,the merit1 then1 of settling this moot point1 it also remains for the members of the ,novara ,expedition to obtain4 ,it would be important to examine the ,sangay 7#af1jfh feet7--which1 like ,stromboli1 is in constant activity1 yet without any traces of lava-streams--on account of the grains of quartz discovered by ,wisse in the trachytic boulders ejected by the volcano1 which is of such rare occurrence in the trachytes out of ,hungary2 and also on account of the close vicinity of beds of granite and gneiss1 which are broken through by the ,sangay trachyte1 forming an island1 as it were1 of not hardly two miles in breadth4 ,still more deserving of attention is the extinct volcano ,el ,altar de los ,collanes 7,capac ,urc7 a sketch of which ,i presented in the atlas published in my ,kleine ,schriften 7,plate ,v4 p4 #dfa71 formerly higher than ,chimborazo1 and still 787 #af1chj feet4 ,not a single specimen of its trachyte has ever been deposited in a ,european museum4 ,the ,altar itself is readily accessible from ,riobamba ,nuevo4 ,in its vicinity may also be seen mica slate and gneiss1 cropping out at the ,paramo del ,hatillo near ,guamote1 and ,teocaxas1 which are so seldom fallen in with in the highlands of ,quit4 ,tradition relates that gold-mines were worked here during the days of the ,incas1 in the neighbourhood of volcanic trachytes4 ,from the ,altar the geologist might proceed1 by way of ,san ,luis1 7,query1 whether the primitive clay-slate found here be of the ,silurian formation87 and ,guamote1 to ,paramo del ,assuay 7#bdbh toises71 and ,cuenca1 as far as ,atausca 7#b #ac' ,s471 where an immense mass of sulphur1 lying in a quartz seam is worked1 forming a bed in the mica slate4 ,of what rock does the easily accessible ,cayambe ,urc 7#ah1agj feet7 consist1 crossing the ,equator1 ,s4,e4 of ,otavalo8 ,en route from ,quit to ,cayambe1 the rich deposits of obsidian near ,quinche should also be inspected1 which furnished the large mirrors to the ,incas1 and farther to the north of which are the volcanoes of ,los ,pastos1 which form a separate system by themselves4 ,for examining the rocks and exploring the volcanoes of ,southern ,peru and ,bolivia--respecting which see the last edition of ,pentland's ,maps1 not those published between #ahcj and #ahdh1 in which the height of ,sorata was indicated at #cidi toises 7#be1beg feet71 and ,illimani at #cgec toises 7#bd1jjd71 and accordingly both as much more lofty than ,chimborazo1 which is #ccej toises 7#ba1dbf feet7--the best starting-point would be the port of ,arica1 which may be reached1 sailing the whole distance against the cold current1 from ,guayaquil1 after a short stay at ,callao de ,lima4 ,of the volcanoes of ,peru and ,bolivia only three are now active4 7a47 ,the volcano of ,arequipa1 three miles ,n4,e4 of the town of the same name1 which1 according to ,pentland and ,rivero1 is situated about #gcff feet above the level of the sea4 ,the measurements of ,m4 ,dolley1 of the ,french navy1 which were published under my superintendence1 give the summit of the volcano as #aj1cdh feet above the town of ,arequipa1 so that its total elevation above the sea would be #ag1gad feet4 ,in the table of heights for ,mrs4 ,somerville's ,physical ,geography1 ,mr4 ,pentland speaks of the summit as being #bj1cbj ,english feet in height1 or #ai1jfe ,paris feet1 closely approximating to the old trigonometrical measurement 7#ai1jhj feet7 given by ,thaddeus ,haenke1 a ,bohemian1 who accompanied the expedition of ,malaspina1 in #agfi4 ,what a deplorable state for the science of hypsometry to be in6 which the ,novara ought to put an end to4 ,samuel ,anzon1 a ,north ,american1 in #ahaa1 and ,dr4 ,weddell1 in #ahdg1 have ascended the volcano of ,arequipa4 7b47 ,sahama 7#ah #g' ,s471 according to ,pentland's new map of #ahdh1 is #hga feet higher than ,chimborazo 7which he gives as #bj1igj feet71 and is still active4 ,the true heights of ,illimani and ,sorata1 ascertained since #ahdh1 are1 instead of #cidi and #cgec respectively1 only #ccbi toises 7#ba1bff ,english feet71 and #ccjg toises 7#ba1ade ,english feet74 7c47 ,volcano ,gualatieri1 in the ,bolivian province of ,carangas 7#ah #be' ,s471 height #bj1fjd feet4 ,the southern group of ,south ,american volcanoes1 that1 of ,chili1 presents the largest number of active fire-mountains--only second1 indeed1 to that of ,central ,america1 there being from eleven to thirteen4 ,in order to increase the geological exploration of this region which has been so well prepared by the memorable expedition under ,captain ,fitzroy1 in the ships ,adventure and ,beagle1 the excellent generalizing theories of ,mr4 ,darwin1 and the naval astronomical expedition of ,mr4 ,gilliss1 for #ahdi-ea1 the ,novara will probably land at ,valparaiso4 ,a great desideratum between ,coquimbo and ,valparaiso is an exact measurement of-- ,a4 ,the volcano of ,aconcagua 7#cb #ci' ,s474 ,its height has been stated1 in #ahce1 by ,captain ,fitzroy1 as #ba1gfg feet1 ,pentland's correction assigning #bb1dca feet2 while ,captain ,kellet1 of the frigate ,herald1 gives it as #ba1ehd feet4 ,miers and ,darwin are both of opinion that the ,aconcagua is still in activity1 which is denied by ,pentland and ,gilliss4 ,the most recent measurement of ,aconcagua--that by ,pissis in #ahed 7see ,gilliss1 ,vol4 ,i4 p4 #fc7--makes the height #bj1ibd feet4 ,m4 ,pissis has published1 in the ,anales de la ,universidad de ,chili1 for #aheb1 the geodetical elements of his survey1 which is based upon eight triangles4 ,aconcagua being probably the highest mountain in the ,new ,world1 a new measurement is eminently desirable4 ,neither ,dhawalagiri1 with his #dicj toises1 nor ,kintsinjunga1 measured by ,colonel ,waugh1 with his #ddjf toises1 are any longer considered the highest mountains in the ,himalaya range1 but the ,deodunga 7,mount ,everest71 which is #bi1jjc ,english feet1 equal to #bg1bab ,paris feet1 or #dece toises4 ,b4 ,the volcano ,maipu 7#cd #ag' ,s41 height #af1egb feet71 ascended by ,meyen4 ,the trachytic rock on the summit has broken through the ,jurassic strata1 in which ,leopold von ,buch has ascertained1 from heights of #ijjj feet1 the existence of ,exogyra couloni1 ,trigonia costata1 and ,ammonites biplex4 ,this volcano has no streams of lava1 but only eruptions of volcanic slags4 ,it would be most desirable that ,dr4 ,hochstetter should examine this remarkable protrusion of dislocated strata4 ,c4 ,the volcano ,antuco 7#cg #g' ,s471 the geology of which was described by ,pppig1 is a lofty basaltic crater1 having a trachytic cone rising up in its centre to an elevation of #hfgb feet4 ,it was observed in full activity by ,domeyko in #ahde4 ,gilliss gives an account of an eruption in #ahec4 ,according to ,domeyko1 a fresh-burning cone was thrown up on the #beth of ,november1 #ahdg1 which remained in activity for a whole year4 ,molina considers the ,nevada ,descabezado 7#ce #a' ,s471 ascended by ,domeyko1 to be the highest mountain in ,chili2 but its height is estimated by ,gilliss at only #ab1cjj feet4 ,the most southerly volcanoes are the still active ,corcovado 7#dc #ab' ,s471 #gjdf feet2 ,yanteles 7#dc #bi' ,s471 #gecd feet2 and the ,volcan de ,san ,clemente1 opposite the granite formation on the peninsula of ,tres ,montes4 ,still further south1 in #ea #da' ,s41 another1 the ,volcan de los ,gigantes1 is laid down on the old maps of ,south ,america1 by ,la ,cruz ,olmedella1 as opposite the archipelago of ,la ,madre de ,dios4 ,should the ,novara return to ,europe through the ,straits of ,maghellanes1 it would be very desirable the members of the ,expedition should visit the locality from which ,prince ,paul of ,wrtemberg1 after long zoological travels through ,north ,america1 has1 within the last year1 brought back to ,germany a very large collection of specimens4 ,altogether1 ,i calculate the number of active volcanoes on the surface of the earth to be upwards of #bbe--one-third of which1 or #ge1 are upon the various continents1 and the remainder upon the insular world4 ,the ,western ,continent has #ec active volcanoes--of which1 ,north-,western ,america1 north of the river ,gila1 has #e2 ,mexico1 #d2 ,central ,america1 #ah2 ,south ,america about #bf4 ,viewing the globe as a whole1 there presents itself an extensive oblique region in which volcanoes most abound1 stretching from ,s4,e4 to ,n4,w4 in the more westerly part of the ,pacific1 between #ge ,w4 and #abe ,e4 of ,paris1 and between #dg ,s4 and #ff ,n4 ,in this region1 the fused elements of the interior of our earth may be said to be most permanently in communication with the atmosphere4 ,the greatest attention should be paid1 with the view of improving them1 to the sections and maps of ,chili1 contained in the work1 ,buenos ,ayres and the ,provinces of ,rio de la ,plata1 published in #aheb by ,sir ,woodbine ,parish1 and still more so1 to that entitled ,map of the ,republic of ,chili1 compiled from the ,surveys of ,gilliss1 ,pissis1 ,allen1 ,campbell1 and ,claude ,gay1 between #bc and #dd ,s41 as contained in ,gilliss' ',united ,states ,astronomical ,expedition1 #ahdg-eb ,washington1 #ahee4' ,the chief object to be aimed at by the ,novara1 with respect to scientific enquiry1 seems to me to be the formation of a collection in the ,geological ,institute of ,vienna1 in comparison to which all the collections which at present aspire to be considered rich in volcanic specimens1 7such as those of ,berlin1 ,paris and ,london71 should appear to be insignificant4 ,in all periods of history1 travellers are only the representatives of the state of knowledge of their own time1 and consequently1 collections always present the readiest means of promulgating new discoveries by oryctognostical examination or chemical analysis4 ,in order to set on foot a grand ,volcanic ,museum1 it would be necessary to bring home from every one of the volcanoes visited1 not less than #aj or #ab1 but still better #ae or #ah1 specimens of the porphyritic trachytes1 all carefully selected1 well-shaped1 containing crystals not disintegrated1 and of sufficient size to admit of a fresh fracture being made4 ,for such quantities1 however1 there cannot be provided on board ship1 even with the kindest patronage of the commanding officer1 sufficient space for the accumulations of two years' arduous efforts in forming a collection4 ,the greatest part1 therefore1 should be sent by other conveyance to ,trieste1 the most secure channel being through the consuls of the ,austrian ,empire1 or those of allied powers1 or through the medium of ,british1 ,dutch or ,american mercantile establishments1 or by the regular packets4 ,duplicates1 say four or five specimens1 from each volcano1 should be taken on board the ,novara in boxes of about #c feet long4 ,it would be too disheartening to have any misgivings of the success of this glorious scheme for getting together a ,museum of ,volcanic ,rocks in ,vienna1 of all the regions of the globe1 arranged upon a regular geographical system1 each labelled with its own name1 so as to promote a general acquaintance with these branches of knowledge3 #a4 ,europe4 #b4 ,atlantic ,islands4 #c4 ,continent of ,asia1 ,south ,coast of ,arabia 7,aden71 ,kamtschatka4 #d4 ,islands of ,eastern ,asia and ,india4 #e4 ,the ,indian ,ocean4 #f4 ,the ,pacific4 #g4 ,continent of ,south ,america3 ,chili1 ,peru1 ,bolivia1 ,quit and ,new ,grenada4 #h4 ,central ,america4 #i4 ,mexico1 south of the river ,gila4 #aj4 ,north-,western ,america1 north of the river ,gila4 #aa4 ,west ,indies4 ,much of this work might be done on board the ,novara4 ,as to ,nos4 #c and #d1 ,kamtschatka1 the ,kurile and ,aleutian ,islands1 the ,red ,sea1 and the ,west ,indies1 it will not be difficult to procure specimens at some future period4 ,our piping times of peace are favourable to the execution of this project1 which should be zealously kept in view throughout the ,expedition4 ,travelling as ,i was1 during the great wars1 ,i did not dare shrink from the difficulty of having to carry along with me #dd large boxes1 as ,i did on the road through ,mexico from ,acapulco to ,vera ,cruz1 whence they were sent to ,cuba1 ,philadelphia1 and so to ,bordeaux4 ,the mechanical labour of having the collections carefully packed1 keeping duplicates distinct1 and sending away geological1 botanical1 zoological and ethnographical collections1 is itself quite as important as the purely scientific work4 ,the exhibition of comprehensive volcanic collections brings to light the strong analogy subsisting between the trachytes belonging to volcanoes1 far distant from one another1 while it indicates the existence of great differences in the mineralogical composition of volcanoes situated very near each other4 ,my most excellent friend and fellow-traveller in ,siberia1 ,professor ,gustavus ,rose1 recently subjected the trachytes of the ,berlin ,museum1 the greater number of which were collected by myself1 to careful crystallographical and chemical investigation4 ,he found oligoclase and pyroxene on the trachytes of ,chimborazo1 ,popocatepetl1 ,colima1 ,tunguragua1 ,purac1 ,paramo de ,ruiz1 and the ,peak of ,teneriffe1 which has recently been accurately examined by ,mr4 ,charles ,deville4 ,the trachytes of ,toluca1 ,orizaba1 ,gunung ,barang1 and ,burung ,agung1 on the ,island of ,java1 ,argus1 in ,asia ,minor1 ,cuneguilla1 south of ,sta4 ,f de ,nuevo-,mexico1 the ,sirra de ,san ,francisco1 west of the ,rocky ,mountains and ,pueblo ,zuni1 consist of hornblende1 oligoclase1 and brown mica4 ,the trachytes of ,stromboli and ,etna1 those of the ,siebengebirge 7,drachenfels71 and of ,kara ,hissar in ,phrygia1 consist of large crystals of glassy felspar1 with numerous smaller crystals of oligoclase1 some hornblende and mica4 ,oligoclase1 having been mistaken for albite1 led to the fantastic idea of a peculiar rock1 the ,andesite1 prevailing in the ,andes1 and even led our great master1 ,leopold von ,buch1 to make some curious distinctions1 7,dscription des ,iles ,canaries1 #ahcf1 pp4 #ahf-hg47 ,to ascertain the average height above the level of the sea1 ,i propose that furrows should be cut in the rocks of the different regions along with inscriptions1 which might carry information to unborn ages1 as has been done1 on my suggestion1 now some #be years ago1 by the ,academy of ,science at ,st4 ,petersburg1 on the ,caspian ,sea1 while ,sir ,james ,ross1 in his ,voyage of ,discovery in the ,southern and ,antarctic ,regions1 #ahci-dc1 ,vol4 ,,ii4 p4 #bc1 regrets not having done so1 or1 at least1 of having only once adopted this plan4 ,i would also1 with all deference1 suggest observations regarding the daily atmospheric variations or tides1 so as to obtain tables of maxima and minima4 ,in order to obtain these1 whenever the frigate is at anchor near any coast1 but particularly within the tropics1 hourly observations with the barometer and thermometer 7the latter affixed to the barometer1 and also freely suspended in the open air71 should be made through several consecutive days and nights4 ,during the occurrence of an ,aurora ,borealis 7or ,australis71 attention should be paid to the perturbations of the magnetic variation1 and the magnetic intensity of the horizontal needle4 ,boreal ,auroras have been seen in the southern latitudes of the ,peruvian ,pacific1 as low down as #ab #ac' ,s42 but the occurrence of such phenomena there is of much less frequent occurrence than that of ,austral ,auroras in ,scotland4 ,it is important to keep an exact register of the intensity of blackness in the coalbags1 when the smallest stars surrounding them are still visible to the naked eye4 ,the daily meteorological observations1 as also those on the temperature of the sea1 will probably be made on board ship1 in conformity with the views of ,lieutenant ,maury1 and the method agreed upon at the last nautical congress4 99 99 99 99 99 ,as ,i shall have long ceased to be numbered with the living1 when the ,novara returns to ,trieste1 richly freighted with scientific treasures of all kinds1 with fresh information relating to organic and inorganic nature1 to the races of man1 their habits and languages1 ,i now pray to ,almighty ,god that ,his blessing may rest upon this great and noble enterprise1 to the honour of our common ,german ,fatherland6 ,and concluding1 in this night1 these oblique1 illegible lines1 ,i remember1 not without emotion1 and with very mingled feelings1 that joyous period of my life when1 fifty-eight years ago1 in the beautiful gardens of ,schnbrunn1 preparing myself for a long journey1 ,i was enjoying with grateful mind the friendly kindness of the venerable ,jacquin and ,peter ,frank4 ,a4 v4 ,,humboldt4 ,berlin1 in the night of #gth ,april1 #aheg4 ,illustration3 ,,departure4 ,i4 ,preparations for the ,voyage4 ,approbation of the ,plan to fit out an ,austrian ,man-of-,war for a ,voyage round the ,world4--,object of the ,expedition4-- ,appointment of a ,scientific ,commission4--,preparations4-- ,fitting out the ,frigate ,novara at ,pola4--,departure for ,trieste4--,visit of the ,archduke ,ferdinand ,maximilian on board4 ,in the autumn of #ahef1 ,his ,majesty the ,emperor was graciously pleased to approve of the proposal for a voyage round the world1 as projected by his ,imperial ,highness the ,archduke ,ferdinand ,maximilian1 the head of the ,austrian navy1 and to commission the sailing frigate ,novara for that purpose1 a vessel qualified to meet every requisite condition4 ,the chief object of the ,expedition--a circumstance which must not be lost sight of--was to afford the officers and cadets of the ship an opportunity of acquiring that practical acquaintance with naval affairs which1 added to the theoretical knowledge previously attained1 would render them thoroughly familiar with nautical routine1 and thus materially contribute to the further development of the ,austrian navy4 ,this branch of the public service1 placed since #ahdh on an entirely new basis1 has with difficulty worked its way through all those embarrassing circumstances inseparable from the organization of a new system2 but the honest zeal and energy of the board appointed1 supported by favour from the highest quarters1 have succeeded in introducing many improvements1 and in increasing by degrees the numerical strength of the men1 thereby laying a secure foundation for the rising naval force1 the importance of which1 at this moment1 every reflecting patriot will acknowledge4 ,the intended ,expedition offered1 besides the advantages for the service1 another not less important for the ,state1 namely1 the recognition of the ,austrian flag in remote quarters of the globe1 to which it had never hitherto penetrated2 and by thus opening new channels for the outlet of our natural products and manufactured goods1 to promote the industrial1 commercial1 and maritime interests of the empire4 ,in order to satisfy the scientific requirements of the age1 the illustrious head of the navy issued orders1 that the officers on board should in every way assist in the researches to be made1 connected with navigation and geography2 and was1 moreover1 pleased to invite the ,imperial ,academy of ,sciences to nominate two members1 he himself naming a third1 to accompany the ,expedition for the purpose of observing and investigating phenomena pertaining to the different branches of physical science1 as well as collecting rare specimens and interesting objects of natural history4 ,to this commission were ultimately attached a botanist1 a practical zoologist1 an artist1 and a flower-gardener4 ,the ,academy had1 for the guidance of these gentlemen1 drawn up instructions which1 with a multitude of other papers containing useful hints and interesting queries1 received from the ,imp4 ,geographical1 ,geological1 and ,medical ,societies1 as well as from numerous foreign and native scientific men1 formed a most valuable collection of materials for the purposes of the ,expedition4#d ,footnote #d3 ,of these instructions1 ,the physical and geognostical remarks1 with which the ,nestor of natural science honoured the voyagers of the ,novara1 being of a more general interest1 are published at the end of this volume1 together with the facsimile of an autograph letter of ,baron von ,humboldt to the commander of the ,expedition4 ,foremost amongst these savans stood ,alexander von ,humboldt1 that illustrious man1 who up to the last moment of his existence was alive with youthful enthusiasm for every scientific enterprise4 ,in ,england great interest in the success of the ,expedition was evinced by ,sir ,roderic ,murchison1 ,sir ,w4 ,hooker1 ,sir ,charles ,lyell1 ,general ,sabine1 ,admiral ,smyth1 ,admiral ,fitzroy1 ,professor ,robert ,owen1 ,professor ,philips1 ,professor ,bell1 ,professor ,w4 ,a4 ,ramsay1 ,professor ,goodsir1 of ,edinburgh1 ,w4 ,j4 ,hamilton1 ,esq41 ,charles ,darwin1 ,esq41 ,l4 ,horner1 ,esq41 ,james ,yates1 ,esq41 ,b4 ,davis1 ,esq41 c41 c4 ,from the ,united ,states of ,north ,america1 we received most valuable communications from ,commander ,m4 ,f4 ,maury1 ,national ,observatory1 ,washington1 ,d4 ,c4--,captain ,rodgers1 and others4 ,letters of introduction were received from ,germany1 and particularly from ,england1 to influential parties and societies in a variety of places abroad1 amongst which were many warm and friendly recommendations from the ,english ,government and ,admiralty1 as well as the ,directors of the then ,east ,india ,company1 to various administrative authorities in the ,british ,colonies4 ,illustration3 ,,gun-,,room ,,of ,,the ,,novara4 ,the frigate ,novara was laid up in the arsenal of ,pola1 where all requisite steps were taken to complete her outfit1 and prepare her thoroughly for the voyage4 ,the ventilation of the lower deck was improved1 and the number of cabins increased in proportion to the number of individuals for whom accommodation was to be provided4 ,the gun-room was1 by command of the ,archduke1 converted into a reading-room1 and provided with a well-selected library as well as with all the charts and maps necessary for the information of the officers1 who here made their calculations and executed their drawings4 ,the store-rooms for the sails and tackle were enlarged1 so as to hold a double quantity4 ,a distilling apparatus1 the same as patented by ,m4 ,rocher1 of ,nantes1 was fixed on the gun-deck1 and being placed in connection with the ship's coppers1 it was found that1 during the few hours each day that the latter were used for cooking1 enough sea-water was distilled to supply the entire ship's company with excellent water to drink4 ,this distilled water1 after having been kept in iron tanks for a month1 was found pleasant to the taste1 and agreed very well with the health4 ,the excellent health enjoyed by all the crew throughout the voyage must1 in a great measure1 be ascribed to the circumstance1 that scarcely any other but this distilled sea-water was used1 so that the men were enabled entirely to forego drinking river or spring-water1 which in the tropics are frequently found injurious4 ,the use of such an apparatus permits a great diminution in the store of water usually carried by a vessel4 ,the space gained by this diminished bulk of water1 enabled us to take on board a larger cargo of coal and provisions1 such as preserved beef and compressed vegetables4 ,the sailors were not1 however1 particularly fond of the preserved beef1 because in cooking it loses a great part of its flavour 7though the broth is strong and good72 nor does it seem as an article of diet to have had a particularly beneficial influence on the health1 for the sanitary condition of the crew was equally satisfactory1 and the number of scorbutic patients not materially increased when1 towards the end of the voyage1 the fresh stores were exhausted1 and only salt and pickled rations were issued4 ,compressed dried vegetables were of great benefit to the health of our men1 and cannot be sufficiently recommended4 ,the so-called melange d'quipage of ,chollet1 as well as sauer kraut1 potatoes1 and other vegetables1 have an excellent taste1 improve the soups when mixed with them1 and are easily preserved1 provided they be protected from the effect of damp4 ,hence it might be advisable to keep them enclosed in well-soldered tin boxes4 ,the price of these vegetables is so moderate1 that it is surprising they are not more generally employed4 ,the long-continued satisfactory state of health of the crew must also partly be sought for in the constant use of shower-baths4 ,for this purpose1 apertures1 three-quarters of an inch in diameter1 were bored in the planks of both the deck and forecastle1 under which a perforated disc could be screwed1 and above which a pail of water was placed4 ,by these simple means every one was enabled to enjoy the luxury of a bath2 when1 however1 the desire for that refreshment became general1 so that the arrangement above-mentioned was insufficient1 a hand fire-engine was made use of1 so as to accommodate as many at once as might present themselves--a process which found great favour with the jolly tars1 as affording abundant opportunities for fun and merriment4 ,illustration3 ,,vertical ,,section ,,of ,,the ,,frigate ,,novara4 ,the frigate ,novara had been placed on the stocks in the arsenal of ,venice in the month of ,february1 #ahde1 and was launched in ,april1 #ahej4 ,she was pierced for #db guns1 but during the voyage carried only thirty #cj-pounders1#e and four of smaller calibre4 ,footnote #e3 ,the #cj-pounder marine guns answer very nearly to the ,english #cb-pounders4 ,the principal dimensions of the frigate 7,vienna measurement7 are3-- ,length between perpendiculars #afe feet #e-a_/b inches4#f ,length of water line #aef #e ,greatest breadth #dd #aa-a_/b ,greatest breadth on water line #dc #b ,depth of hold #ai #c_/d ,draught of water aft #ah #i ,draught of water fore #ag #e-b_/c ,footnote #f3 #if-dbc_/ajjj ,austrian feet #ajj ,english4 ,the superficial area of the ship1 or the load-water line1 amounted to #efhe4ce square feet2 quantity of water displaced #bajg ,austrian1 or #bfcj ,english tons4 ,the superficial area of the principal sails amounted to #ah1bia square feet4 ,the frigate proved herself to be an excellent sailer1 as1 of the various vessels which1 throughout the voyage1 sailed in company with us1 only three clippers outstripped her4 ,the question may here be asked1 why1 in the present state of navigation1 a sailing-vessel was preferred to a steamer for this voyage8 ,the principal consideration which decided this selection was the greater disposable area which a sailing-vessel offers in comparison with a steamer of the same dimensions1 in which coal and machinery occupy so large a space4 ,on the present occasion1 it will be perceived that what was specially wanted was room for as great a number of officers1 cadets1 and men as possible1 who were1 as has been stated1 to make this voyage for improvement in nautical affairs4 ,plenty of space was also required for the numerous instruments and bulky collections of objects of natural history2 while in most parts of the ocean which we were to traverse1 the winds blow so regularly1 that1 with very rare exceptions1 sails form the best motive power4 ,the expense of fuel requisite for a steamer1 and the trouble of replacing it during the voyage1 are thus saved2 whilst1 finally1 the space occupied by the men employed in the management of the machinery1 and that required for the stowage of special stores1 would be withdrawn from more important objects4 ,after the frigate had been properly fitted up in the arsenal of ,pola1 she sailed on the #aeth ,march1 #aheg1 for ,trieste1 where she cast anchor on the #agth in the ,bay of ,muggia4 ,h4,i4,m4's corvette ,caroline1 likewise fitted out at ,pola for a voyage to the coast of ,south ,america and ,western ,africa1 followed in her wake1 and it was now seen that the frigate was a better sailer than the corvette1 a circumstance so much the more satisfactory1 that the latter had hitherto been considered the swiftest ship in our navy4 ,the unfavourable state of the weather interfered so much with the works which were to be finished at ,trieste1 that the embarkation of provisions1 swinging the compasses1 c41 c41 could only be proceeded with very slowly4 ,at last1 the members of the ,commission arrived1 and the vessel only waited for sailing orders4 ,before leaving on so interesting an enterprise1 with which the most pleasing recollections of our lives will ever be associated1 we had the gratification of being honoured by a visit on board from the ,archduke ,ferdinand ,maximilian4 ,the commander of the ,expedition introduced the officers and scientific gentlemen to his ,imperial ,highness1 who addressed them in affecting terms1 and concluded his remarks by expressing a hope that the frigate ,novara would1 with ,god's help1 return happily from her mission to her own honour and that of the country4 ,the narrative of the voyage is now presented1 and1 probably1 the results of the various scientific investigations will very shortly be offered to a discerning public1 leaving it to them to judge how far we have succeeded in realizing the hopes of the illustrious ,prince4 ,but if we have not satisfied all the expectations entertained1 it certainly was not from insufficiency of means2 for everything was complete in that respect1 and we owe it chiefly to the circumspection and kind care of the ,commander-in-chief of our navy1 that this enterprise had been so wisely planned1 and its details brought in so short a time to such a degree of perfection that1 during the whole voyage1 it was not found necessary to make the slightest alteration in the original arrangements and regulations4 ,illustration3 ,,geodetical ,,and ,,astronomical ,,instruments4 ,illustration3 ,,look-,,out ,,man4 ,,ii4 ,from ,trieste to ,gibraltar4 ,departure4--,fair ,voyage down the ,adriatic4--,a ,man lost and found again4--,passage through the ,straits of ,messina4--,the ,steamer ,sta4 ,lucia returns to ,trieste4--,regulations and ,instructions for further ,proceedings4--,a ,day on ,board the ,novara4-- ,sunrise4--,cleaning the ,ship4--,mental and physical occupation4-- ,moonlight at sea4 ,the departure of the frigate was fixed for the #cjth ,april1 #aheg1 and ,h4,i4,m4's corvette ,caroline1 ,captain ,kohen1 was ordered to accompany her as far as the coast of ,south ,america4 ,h4,i4,m's steamer1 ,sta4 ,lucia1 ,captain von ,littrow1 received orders to tow both ships as far as the extremity of the ,straits of ,messina to avoid loss of time1 such as frequently arises in the ,adriatic during the spring1 from calms and unfavourable winds4 ,with the dawn of the day fixed for the departure of the ships1 all was bustle on board2 craft of all kinds hovered around1 and relatives and friends had assembled in great numbers to take leave4 ,the verdant and thickly-wooded slopes of the promenade to ,st4 ,andrea1 near the shore1 were thronged with spectators1 and the fair and lovely picture of our native coast developed itself once more before our eyes1 clad in all its charms of spring1 as if to wish us a hearty farewell1 an auspicious voyage1 and a happy return6 ,at #h o'clock ,a4,m4 we weighed anchor1 and the steamer ,sta4 ,lucia approached the ,novara for the purpose of towing her from the ,bay of ,muggia into the roads of ,trieste4 ,she had all her colours displayed1 and saluted the city of ,trieste1 ,austria's chief and most important emporium1 with #ba guns4 ,the salute was answered from the castle1 whilst the band on board struck up ,haydn's beautiful hymn3 ,god preserve the ,emperor6 ,the frigate moved out of the road-stead1 accompanied by a great number of boats1 and followed by the best wishes of the numerous crowds assembled on shore1 and of all true patriots1 who looked upon this ,expedition as a cheering evidence that a new and energetic spirit of enterprise had arisen in their native country4 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,i4--,,track ,,from ,,trieste ,,to ,,madeira4 ,the corvette ,caroline1 which was waiting outside the roads1 was attached to the frigate1 and soon ,trieste appeared like a dim cloud on the distant horizon4 ,the outlines of the ,carinthian ,alps became fainter1 and the excitement of the parting scene was calmed by that busy activity required from every one embarking on a long voyage1 if he desires to attain any degree of comfort1 however little1 in the cramped and limited space of a crowded ship4 ,a perfect calm1 a smooth sea1 and a but-slightly-clouded sky1 prognosticated fair weather1 and promised leisure to complete those arrangements which had been left undone4 ,the steamer ,sta4 ,lucia performed her task of towing the two vessels most satisfactorily1 and1 favoured by the prevailing currents of wind and water1 we made five miles an hour1 and came1 on the day of departure1 in sight of the promontory of ,pola4 ,the passage down the ,adriatic was on the whole most pleasant1 with the exception of some showers of rain near the heights of ,isola ,grossa2 which1 however1 on this occasion saluted us only with a slight puff of wind4 ,the ship moved so gently and quietly on her way1 that those occupying the lower cabins could scarcely have fancied themselves at sea1 had they not been made aware of it by other impressions4 ,on the #ast of ,may1 the crew became highly excited by a man being missed1 when the morning watch was called4 ,some thought he had1 from fear of a slight punishment hanging over him1 jumped overboard1 but as nothing of the kind had been observed by the watch on deck1 every corner was searched1 but without success1 upon which the man was given over as lost4 ,when1 however1 the dinner hour arrived1 and the tables and benches were being removed from the lower deck1 how great was the surprise1 when the culprit was discovered crouching among them6 ,a peal of laughter roused the poor fellow1 who this time was let off with the fright and the punishment of being made an object of ridicule by his comrades4 ,on the #crd of ,may1 being clear of the ,adriatic1 the steamer ,sta4 ,lucia was at midnight despatched to ,corfu to complete her store of coal1 whilst we sailed for ,cape ,spartivento1 on the ,calabrian coast1 which had been assigned as our rendezvous4 ,on the #eth1 we sighted this the most southerly promontory of ,italy1 when1 in consequence of a fresh breeze1 the sea began to make itself rather disagreeably felt4 ,the novices on board became somewhat alarmed4 ,a feeble voice was even heard1 which endeavoured to prove from this phenomenon that man is a creature made for terra firma1 and not for the watery element2 but this excellent idea came rather late2 mankind are obliged to submit to existing circumstances1 and this thought alone held out some hope1 that a longer stay on board would prove the best cure for the evil4 ,such indeed was the case2 though pale faces1 want of appetite1 and even worse effects1 were produced1 whenever the ship made a heavier roll than usual4 ,but these slight inconveniences of sea life became rarer and rarer1 till at last they appeared only in really stiff gales4 ,on the #gth the steamer ,sta4 ,lucia returned and took us again in tow4 ,the weather during our passage through the charming straits of ,messina was delightful4 ,the colossal ,etna exhibited in all its glory its snow-capped summit1 gilded by the rays of the rising sun1 and ,messina shone with all the attractions of its splendid situation4 ,the coast of this part of ,italy is mostly bare and rugged1 the broken outlines of the mountains imparting to the landscape that characteristic peculiarity which makes so deep an impression on the mind4 ,we passed the famous ,charybdis1 in which a multitude of dolphins were disporting themselves4 ,the neighbouring coast formed a brilliant panorama1 and we kept so close in shore as to be able to distinguish the movements of the people4 ,the appearance of our three goodly ships seemed to have attracted the attention of the inhabitants1 for they stood in groups in the streets and squares of ,reggio and ,villa ,san ,giovanni1 saluting us by waving their handkerchiefs4 ,when towards the evening we had passed the straits1 we could descry the ,neapolitan coast as far as ,monte ,bulgario1 in the ,bay of ,policastro1 and distinguish the imposing ,stromboli1 with its volume of smoke1 far on the ,western horizon4 ,the following morning found us in sight of the small island of ,alicudi1 situated on the north of ,sicily4 ,the estimable captain of the ,lucia came on board to take leave1 on his return to ,trieste4 ,the steamer1 being relieved of her burden1 made her way briskly towards her destination2 and1 before an hour had elapsed1 we could perceive nothing but a small streak of smoke in the haze of the horizon4 ,with light breezes1 we came1 on the following day1 in sight of the island of ,ustica4 ,sea-gulls 7,thalassidroma pelagica7 enlivened the scene1 as they1 from time to time1 flew after the garbage thrown from the ship1 or sought for sea-nettles and other small inhabitants of the sea's surface4 ,these birds much resemble our land swallows1 and their movements are so graceful1 that one cannot but admire them1 especially when they lightly touch the agitated water with their little webbed feet1 and directly1 as if repelled1 withdraw4 ,the muscular power of these feathered creatures is truly wonderful2 they follow the ship for entire days continually on the wing1 ever on the watch to snatch at the little food which the sea seems but scantily to supply to them4 ,illustration3 ,,palinurus4 ,whilst we were passing down the ,mediterranean1 a great deal of time was employed in drawing up regulations1 and in digesting all those instructions which had reached the ,commander of the ,expedition from all sides1 and by which we were to be guided in our future proceedings4 ,the scientific gentlemen were the first who received certain rules for their guidance2 for1 life on board a ship1 and especially of a man-of-war1 is so entirely different from that on shore1--the etiquette and usages practised appear1 to those unused to the sea1 so vexatious and annoying1 that it was absolutely necessary to inform them of the regulations which are essential in order to keep so singular an organization as that of a ship at sea in working order4 ,erelong every one perceived1 that the matutinal annoyance of holystoning the decks1 the daily cleaning of everything on board1 c41 are measures of importance1 which contribute materially to the preservation of the health of the crew1 and that a strict observance of discipline is absolutely necessary to exercise their powers1 and thus to fit them for all eventualities4 ,for the better accommodation of the naturalists1 a place on the lower gun-deck was fitted up for those operations which1 on account of the limited space and noxious exhalations1 could not well be performed in the cabins4 ,we had a large quantity of alcohol on board1 destined for the preservation of interesting objects of natural history4 ,in order to prevent any calamity by fire arising therefrom1 the whole quantity was put in a large iron tank placed in the hold1 and covered over with sand4 ,it will1 however1 be seen in the sequel1 that even this precaution proved insufficient to protect the ship from the ignition of this highly-combustible substance4 ,the meteorological observations1 and those connected with the physical geography of the sea1 were entrusted to four officers1 who1 like those attached to the watches1 had alternately to be at their posts1 and had1 at prescribed hours1 to observe the barometer1 thermometer1 and psychrometer1 as well as the temperature of the surface of the sea1 the state of the sky and the ocean1 and to note down the obtained results4 ,one of the junior officers was intrusted with the nautical observations on shipboard1 as well as the astronomical and magnetical on shore4 ,the midshipmen were at the same time trained by study and practice1 so as to enable them to assist the officers in their duties4 ,besides the men on the look-out1 one of the midshipmen was employed on the same service4 ,in stormy nights1 when the wind is howling1 and rain or snow falling1 this post is certainly not very pleasant1 but is1 as may readily be imagined1 most important4 ,life in the limited space of a ship1 completely cut off from the external world1 is so peculiar and interesting to those unacquainted with the sea1 that we will endeavour to describe a day passed on board the ,novara1 from the instant when at daybreak the bustle and activity begin1 till the late hour when night reminds one of repose1 those sweet moments which carry the voyager to his distant home on the wings of a dream4 ,as the sonorous bell strikes the fifth hour of the morning1 the crew are called on deck by the boatswain's whistle1 the hammocks are slung up and stowed away1 and the work begins4 ,this is the busiest time of the day1 and for the mere spectator the most uncomfortable4 ,on all sides scouring1 rubbing1 sweeping are going on1 floods of water are streaming along the decks1 and he who is not as yet familiar with these cleaning processes1 runs some risk of a ducking as soon as he makes his appearance outside his cabin4 ,these morning ablutions are1 however1 indispensable evils on board ship1 for cleanliness is a condition essential to the preservation of health1 and even the quantity of humidity which penetrates the timber1 and renders the air damp1 appears to be less injurious than the omission of these daily scourings4 ,when the cleaning of the various parts of the ship is finished1 the idlers1 and such of the officers as are off duty1 appear on deck1 whither people come to enjoy the fresh air1 and to greet the opening day4 ,it may1 however1 be permitted to observe1 that a sunrise at sea1 notwithstanding its various charms1 is by far less imposing than the same scene on a lofty mountain1 where the veil of night seems to vanish as if by magic1 and luxuriant nature lies at our feet like a smiling infant awaking from a lovely dream4 ,that wild majesty of scenery1 that overpowering grandeur of gigantic mountain forms1 such as one sees in the ,swiss or ,tyrolese ,alps1 is wanting at sea1 where the rising sun pours his beams only over a boundless world of water4 ,the sailors breakfast at #g1 the officers at #h1 and the ,commander at #i4 ,at the latter hour the bugle sounds the order to clear the ship1 when the cleaning of arms1 guns1 and all other articles of metal connected with the ship's armoury1 begins4 ,during this process the band plays cheerful airs1 so that the work is done whilst keeping time with the music1 which serves to lighten the labour4 ,this duty requires to be completed within forty-five minutes1 and terminates with an inspection of the men and their arms4 ,this being over1 officers and midshipmen off duty assemble together with the naturalists in the reading-room4 ,most of the books in the library referred to those countries likely to be visited by the ,expedition1 so that every one might previously obtain useful information relative to their physical1 historical1 and social conditions4 ,the naturalists employ the greater part of the day in their cabins1 noting down their observations1 and preparing for those to be made in the course of the voyage4 ,the crew are kept in activity by being drilled and otherwise occupied4 ,the men dine at #ab2 the dinner of the officers is served up at #c1 and that of the ,commodore at half-past #c o'clock ,p4,m4 ,the remainder of the afternoon is spent in prosecuting the labours begun in the morning4 ,thus steals on the evening1 when a general assemblage takes place on deck1 for air and exercise4 ,illustration3 ,,seamen ,,off ,,duty4 ,the occurrences of the day1 the sunset1 the curious formation of the clouds1 or the bewitching beauty of a brilliant tropical sky at night1 form interesting topics for lively discussion4 ,it is1 however1 rather daring to institute a comparison between the splendour of the sky in the tropics and that of our higher latitudes4 ,for1 most men become more or less unjust towards the beauties of a new and foreign natural scenery1 in consequence of their not being able to divest themselves of former impressions produced in them by phenomena of a similar nature4 ,what impressions are1 for instance1 deeper in young and old1 and excite more delightful recollections than the starry sky of home8 ,and can it be disputed that the association of ideas has a most powerful effect upon the impressions made by those phenomena of nature which are so peculiarly attractive and so deeply fixed in the human mind8 ,the conversation generally becomes more lively on those evenings when the moon1 placid friend of the sailor1 appears on the distant horizon1 shedding her silvery beams over the unbroken expanse of water4 ,the influence which she exercises on the state of the weather1 even the prejudices and superstitions connected with our satellite1 offer subjects of interesting debate2 involuntarily the mariner looks with grateful feelings towards that heavenly luminary1 the mild soothing light of which diminishes the number of his anxious nights1 protects him in present1 warns him of remote dangers1 and influences so powerfully that vast element on which he passes the greater part of his life4 ,indeed he who has ever spent a dark and stormy night on the ocean1 when the ship1 lashed by the fury of the waves1 and borne resistlessly along1 stands in constant peril of coming in violent collision with a vessel similarly circumstanced1 or of being dashed to pieces on some iron-bound coast of rugged rock1 easily comprehends and will excuse the sailor who ascribes to the moonlight somewhat of a supernatural and mysterious power4 ,in this manner1 and notwithstanding the continued sameness1 days and months glide away like hours1 until we again cast anchor1 and only the work accomplished gives an idea of the length of time which has been passed at sea4 ,sunday alone breaks the monotony of life on board1 when1 after the diurnal cleaning of the ship1 and the inspection of the crew1 the officers1 and all the men who are not on duty1 assemble for divine service on the lower gun-deck1 where the chaplain says mass on a temporary altar1 whilst the ship's band performs sacred music4 ,in the afternoon the men off duty amuse themselves for a couple of hours with the tombola1 a game much liked by our sailors4 ,between #f and #g ,p4,m4 the band plays on deck1 whilst the sailors are cutting grotesque figures to the music4 ,the singular capers by which all evince their happiness2 the good-humoured awkwardness with which each clings to the brawny arm of his companion2 the mock graceful air those who enact the gentler sex assume in the dance1 and1 finally1 the affected attitude with which the cavaliers bow to their partners as if they really were of the gentler sex--all this is most ludicrous and amusing4 ,the playing the national dance ,monferina always elicits a particularly hearty reception4 ,there is a peculiar charm in national melodies1 even though they awaken no political reminiscences like the ,marseillaise1 or the ,rakoczy2 they electrify alike the educated and the men of the people2 a thousand pleasing recollections suddenly crowd into the memory1 and when the well-known tunes strike the ear1 the heart seems to live again in bygone times6 ,as if touched by magic1 the sailor from the ,adriatic1 as soon as the ,monferina is struck up1 seizes his neighbour by the arm with a noisy shout and hurls him about in wild hilarity2 his thoughts seem as if flying towards his distant home1 where1 in the country inn1 with a buxom lass on his shoulder1 he has waltzed away many a happy hour4 ,the whole village1 with all its familiar faces1 seems to revive in his memory during the playing of the melody1--now he fills his glass2 now he clinks it merrily with that of his companion2 now he presses his sweetheart more closely to his side3 ,lo6 suddenly a shrill whistle pierces the air1 the music ceases1 the call is heard to fall in1 and the yet dance-stricken sailor1 suddenly1 as if awakening from a sweet reverie1 is once more standing on the deck of the ,novara6 ,the frigate1 in the ,mediterranean also1 maintained her superiority as a sailer4 ,the corvette ,caroline was able to keep the prescribed distance from the ,novara only by the latter reefing some of her sails4 ,as some magnetic observations were to be made at ,gibraltar1 and1 as we had to ascertain the results of the various chronometers on board1 on the #abth of ,may we signalled the corvette to take her own time and rejoin us at ,gibraltar1 as we were anxious to avoid unnecessary detention4 ,the acquisitions of the naturalists had1 as yet1 been very scanty3 to their great annoyance they could not even obtain any of the tortoises1 which1 from time to time1 approached the ship1 though they were repeatedly fired at1 and on one occasion a boat was launched1 in the hope of catching some of them4 ,the specimens which we saw were from fifteen to twenty inches in diameter2 they mostly floated quietly on the surface1 and seemed sleeping or basking themselves in the sun4 ,the night of the #afth ,may was exceedingly boisterous1 and almost tangible darkness prevailed2 thunder1 lightning1 and occasionally strong easterly squalls1 raged furiously1 and only subsided towards the morning1 when it cleared up with fresh southerly breezes4 ,not being far from ,cape de ,gatt1 on the ,spanish coast1 prudence required us to change course1 and1 during the continuance of stormy weather1 to keep at a respectful distance from the shore4 ,here a merchantman1 apparently an ,american1 bore down so close upon us1 that1 in the darkness1 an unpleasant collision seemed unavoidable4 ,however1 we tacked about1 and thus1 fortunately avoiding our dangerous neighbour1 safely proceeded on our course4 ,it is truly astonishing how often merchantmen1 entirely forgetful of their own safety1 from want of caution1 or presumption1 or it would occasionally seem1 sheerly from acting upon peculiar and abnormal principles of navigation1 wantonly expose ship1 men1 and cargo to many dangers1 which might easily be avoided1 particularly in cases where no tacking is required1 and only a slight touch of the rudder would suffice to prevent a collision1 which is always attended with danger to the smaller ship4 ,in this respect the ,north ,americans are very unpleasant neighbours on account of their national vanity1 and the ,dutch for their phlegmatic temperament and the indifference they evince on such occasions4 ,on the #ahth of ,may1 the small rocky island of ,alboran1 in the narrow part of the sea between ,africa and ,spain1 was observed2 being flat and without vegetation1 it is scarcely perceptible1 and the land-fall during the night should be carefully avoided4 ,the erection of a lighthouse on this island would certainly be regarded as a great boon by all who navigate the ,mediterranean4 ,on the #aith of ,may1 the sea suddenly assumed a peculiar orange colour2 a dust-like covering was observed on the surface of the water1 and at some depth white points might be seen1 mingling with each other in the wake of the ship4 ,clouds of this orange-like matter appeared spread upon the sea1 which thereby lost its usual transparency4 ,on closer examination this phenomenon appeared to arise from a mass consisting of myriads of minute animalcul1 which had a yellow opaque kernel1 the gelatinous covering of which was transparent and colourless4 ,a quantity of sea-water impregnated with this matter1 having been brought into a dark room1 gave out a light1 and when agitated1 such brightness proceeded from it1 as justified the anticipation that1 during the night1 the whole sea would be illuminated4 ,accordingly the wake of the ship was illuminated by a wonderful stream of light1 in the depths of which larger masses of luminous matter could be discerned1 whilst on the surface there was a sparkling and glittering1 as if all the stars of the firmament were reflected in the water4 ,this phosphorescence of the sea1 for the explanation of which we are chiefly indebted to ,professor ,ehrenberg1 proceeds for the most part from the emanations of light from mollusc of the genus ,medusa1 and other living phosphoric animalcul2 sometimes1 however1 as for instance in ,venice1 it arises from the putrescent fibres of decayed mollusc1 and other organisms in a state of decomposition4 ,on the evening of the #bjth the splendid ,ceuta ,light was seen1 which1 even at a distance of twenty miles1 looks as if it were quite near4 ,this lighthouse is of the utmost importance to ships emerging into the ,atlantic from the ,mediterranean1 as the current is exceedingly powerful1 and during the night is apt imperceptibly to carry a vessel out of her course4 ,on the morning of the #bast1 the ship lay in a calm before the rock of ,gibraltar4 ,barren1 gray1 and gloomy rose now before our sight this rocky1 gun-studded1 colossal sentinel of that vigilantly-prudent1 energetic1 and jealous ,power1 which is so constantly seeking to extend her rule wherever her own interests are concerned1 or where she thinks it advisable to make herself respected by other nations4 ,a light breeze sprang up1 and at half-past #c ,p4,m4 the anchorage1 eleven and a half fathoms in depth1 was reached4 ,the frigate now lay in front of the ,alameda or public gardens of ,gibraltar1 situated near the town gate1 called the ,ragged ,staff4 ,this anchorage is tolerably safe at this season1 but in autumn and winter1 as well as generally in strong easterly winds1 it is not to be recommended1 it being preferable to haul further in towards the place where the merchant-vessels usually lie4 ,we saluted the ,english flag on the fortress with twenty-one guns1 which were immediately answered from the ramparts4 ,there were no ,english men-of-war in the ,roads1 except the sloop ,curlew1 ,capt4 ,horton4 ,the following morning our consort1 the ,caroline1 anchored in our vicinity4 ,the first day of the arrival of a man-of-war in harbour is attended with much inconvenience1 particularly if she carries the flag of the ,commodore1 or it happens that the mail packets are arriving or departing1 or that there are many ships of war in the ,roads4 ,the latter was not now the case1 but so many visitors1 letters1 and newspapers arrived at once1 that neither the one nor the other could be thoroughly enjoyed4 ,the local authorities1 the governor1 ,sir ,james ,fergusson1 at their head1 were extremely obliging and attentive2 ,mr4 ,falkland1 an officer of the ,engineers1 was placed at our disposal2 a specially-reserved site was assigned us for astronomical and magnetical observations2 huts were erected by the workmen of the arsenal for the protection of the instruments1 and in short everything1 calculated to promote scientific labours1 was provided4 ,the ,chancellor of the ,austrian ,consulate1 ,mr4 ,john ,frembly1 himself a geologist1 proved likewise to be of great service to our scientific men3 and it was considered a fortunate omen to have found1 at this our first anchorage1 so much sympathy with the objects of the ,expedition4 ,illustration3 ,,view ,,of ,,gibraltar ,,from ,,seaward4 ,illustration3 ,,rock ,,of ,,gibraltar4 ,,iii4 ,gibraltar4 ,,stay ,,from ,,the #bj,,th ,,to ,,the #cj,,th ,,may1 #aheg4 ,political ,significance of the ,rock4--,courtesy of the ,british ,authorities4--,fortifications4--,signal ,stations4--,the only place in ,europe frequented by ,monkeys4--,calcareous ,caves4-- ,chief ,entrances into the ,town4--,shutting the ,town ,gates4-- ,public ,establishments4--,inhabitants4--,elliot t's ,gardens4--,the ,isthmus1 or ,neutral ,ground4--,algeziras4--,ceuta4--,commerc e and ,navigation4--,excellent regulation in the ,english ,navy relative to ,officers' ,outfit4--,small-pox appears on ,board the ,caroline4--,departure from ,gibraltar4--,a ,fata ,morgana4--,the ,novara passes the ,straits4--,take leave of ,europe4--,voyage to ,madeira4--,floating ,bottles to ascertain the ,currents4--,arrival in the ,roads of ,funchal4 ,this remarkable promontory1 which in our days has obtained so much political importance1 the ,calpe of the ancients1 constituted of old1 with the opposite ,abyla1#g the so-called pillars of ,hercules1 celebrated1 at the same time1 as the boundary of the then-known world4 ,it derives its name from the corrupted ,arabic ,gebel 7mountain7 and ,tarik1 the name of a ,moorish conqueror1 who had pitched his camp here 7,a4,d4 #gaa74 ,like a colossal giant1 guarding the portal of ,europe1 and converted1 by the energy and ingenuity of the ,british1 into an almost impregnable outpost1 this precipitous rock has1 as regards the ,mediterranean1 the same high strategic importance for that great maritime people1 as ,heligoland for the ,german ,ocean1 ,aden for the ,red ,sea1 ,ceylon and ,singapore for the ,indian ,archipelago1 ,hongkong for the ,chinese waters1 or the ,cape and ,st4 ,helena for the ,atlantic ,ocean4 ,footnote #g3 ,the present ,apes ,hill4 ,gibraltar was already strongly fortified1 when it belonged to the ,andalusian kingdom1 but its grandest fortifications date from the treaty of ,utrecht 7#agac71 when it became an appanage of the ,british crown4 ,stupendous and incomparable are the works which since that period have been executed on it1 though the calcareous formation of the locality and its numerous caves may have considerably facilitated their construction4 ,the ,english authorities1 who so kindly assisted in the scientific researches1 obligingly furnished each individual of the frigate's staff with a written permission to inspect the fortifications as often as they pleased1 and thereby afforded them the particular gratification of being able to view and admire these vast structures in all their details4 ,excellent and well-kept roads lead to the principal fortifications1 which only begin at an elevation of several hundred feet above the town4 ,the galleries1 hewn in the solid rock1 forming a kind of casemates1 are of such breadth and height that they may be conveniently traversed by a man on horseback with his hat on4 ,they have been constructed at an immense expense of labour and money1 and are designated by various names1 as ,upper gallery1 ,lower gallery1 ,queen's gallery1 ,st4 ,george's ,hall1 and so on4 ,their extent is estimated at an ,english mile1 but is probably much greater4 ,besides these galleries1 passages run for miles in the interior of the rock1 affording the garrison a thoroughly-protected connection with all points that may chance to be threatened4 ,the grandest and most imposing of these marvellous excavations are the ,queen's gallery and ,st4 ,george's ,hall4 ,according to carved inscriptions1 most of them were begun and completed between the years #aghc and #aghi4 ,at the period of our visit1 there were mounted on the different fortifications #gjg guns1 about one hundred of which peeped out of the smaller embrasures4 ,since that date1 however1 the number is said to have been increased so as to amount now to about #aejj4 ,during the stay of the ,novara1 it fortunately happened that the birthday of ,queen ,victoria was celebrated1 and thus an opportunity was offered of seeing the fiery mountain in full activity4 ,though the occasion was peaceable1 yet the imposing spectacle gave a tolerable idea of the elements of destruction which ,gibraltar could put in action if really attacked4 ,the governor of the fortress1 surrounded by a brilliant staff1 in which the ,spanish governor of ,algeziras and his officers played but a sorry part1 reviewed the garrison1 consisting of infantry1 cavalry1 and artillery1 to the number of from #ejjj to #fjjj men2 and whilst the troops defiled in slow and quick step1 lightnings and thunders issued from all the crevices and embrasures of the artificially-perforated rock2 huge volumes of dense smoke followed1 and a rolling subterraneous rumbling gave the mountain exactly the character of a volcano suddenly burst into action4 ,the echo of these salvoes of rejoicing must have been heard1 not only in the adjacent parts of ,spain1 but also on the more remote coast of ,africa2 and he who was ignorant of the real cause1 might have supposed it a grand rehearsal of that fearful tragedy which the ,english seem determined to perform in the event of an attack4 ,the supposition1 however1 that the guns of ,gibraltar are able entirely to command the ,straits is erroneous1 for these1 at their narrowest part1 are #ab-a_/b miles wide1 and not even the ,armstrong guns1 with which the fortress has lately been furnished1 have so extensive a range4 ,the ,english are1 however1 able to command the ,straits by a fleet1 which would find in the ,bay of ,gibraltar a sufficiently safe and roomy anchorage4 ,from the fortifications1 a narrow and rather steep path leads to the telegraph station1 at an elevation of #acjj feet above the level of the sea4 ,steamers and men-of-war1 as soon as visible1 are signalled from this point by means of immense balls and flags4 ,it would be very difficult to signal merchantmen in the same way1 as1 during a prevailing westerly wind1 multitudes of ships often appear to the eastward of the rock1 anxiously waiting for a favourable easterly breeze to carry them through the ,straits2 in the same way the westerly horizon is sometimes crowded with ships1 prevented by contrary winds from entering the ,mediterranean4 ,we found at the station an ,aneroid-barometer1 and a thermometer4 ,the advantages for navigation and physical science of extensive meteorological observations1 regularly made1 are so evident1 that it is astonishing to see how often opportunities are neglected for making them1 such as are offered here4 ,there was no opportunity for seeing any of those families of monkeys1 the occasional appearance of which on the ,rock of ,gibraltar has given rise to tales found in books of travel of the existence of a submarine communication1 through which this single representative of the genus in ,europe has found its way to this rock from ,africa4 ,sometimes1 however1 during easterly winds1 single individuals are observed on the highest peaks on the eastern side of the rock1 where it is completely inaccessible2 probably the remnants of that species 7,inuus ecaudatus71 which at some former time1 either by chance1 or human agency1 have found their way hither from the ,moorish coast4 ,the calcareous caves are very remarkable4 ,that on the western side1 called ,st4 ,michael's1 situated at a height of #hjj feet1 is the most important4 ,it contains beautiful stalactite formations1 and seems to be of considerable extent2 it has1 however1 not been closely examined hitherto1 as only a small part is conveniently accessible4 ,st4 ,martin's ,cave1 on the south-east1 likewise about #hjj feet above the level of the sea1 is smaller1 but its stalactites are of a purer whiteness4 ,a third was discovered a few years since on the eastern side of the rock at a height of only #hj feet1 the lower portion of which consists of accumulations of sand and recent shells4 ,there have also been found bones and teeth of large herbivorous animals4 ,illustration3 ,,rock ,,cavern ,,in ,,gibraltar4 ,the characteristic vegetation of the mountain is ,spanish broom 7,spartium junceum71 the yellow blossom of which strikes the eye pleasingly at a great distance4 ,there is also one species of cactus1 and one of the dwarf palm 7,opuntia vulgaris1 and ,chamrops humilis71 which grows in great abundance1 and forms1 on the south face of the rock1 almost the only vegetation1 whilst1 on account of difference of temperature1 it is altogether absent on the remaining sides4 ,gibraltar has little to attract strangers to settle2 barracks1 military store-houses1 and fortifications1 render the appearance of the place peculiarly monotonous1 the more so that there are no elegant buildings1 or fine shops1 on the rock4 ,there was nothing observed1 however1 to confirm the statement1 in a celebrated geographical work1 copied by all later compilers1 that most of the houses are painted black1 to soften the glare of the sun1 and prevent an attacking enemy having a distinct view of the place4 ,the town1 which is built in terraces on the side of the rock1 is accessible only from three points4 ,the greatest portion of the traffic passes through the so-called ,old ,mole at the north end1 whilst the entrances on the south are generally used by men-of-war sailors only4 ,all are opened at #e in the morning1 and1 according to the season1 shut between #g and #h in the evening1 precisely twenty-five minutes after the first signal-gun4 ,this closing of the gate is attended with ceremonies verging on the comic4 ,a broad-shouldered corporal1 carrying in his hand a heavy bunch of immense keys1 marches1 visibly impressed with the importance of his mission1 in measured steps1 accompanied by a number of red jackets with fixed bayonets1 towards the massive town-gate2 the bridge is then1 with much ado1 drawn up1 and the horribly-creaking gate1 with great exertion1 closed1 bolted1 and finally locked4 ,after gun fire no one can leave the town by the ,old ,mole2 at #aj ,p4,m41 however1 and at midnight1 a little postern is opened1 through which those jolly stragglers1 who have forgotten in merry company the measure of time1 may slip out to return to their floating abodes4 ,from this hour till morning all communication with the harbour is arrested1 and the utter impossibility 7except in extraordinary cases7 of leaving the town after this hour1 has given rise amongst the people to the saying1 ,there is only one thing more difficult than to get out of the town after midnight1 and that is to get in4 ,there are in the city two ,anglican churches1 one ,wesleyan1 one ,presbyterian1 two ,catholic chapels1 and two synagogues4 ,the garrison library1 where likewise a great number of journals and magazines are kept1 possesses #bb1jjj volumes1 amongst them several very rare and costly works1 especially of ancient ,spanish literature4 ,it was founded in #agic by ,captain ,drinkwater1 and has been hitherto kept up by private subscriptions and the profits arising from a printing-establishment attached to it4 ,gibraltar owes to the energy and public spirit of the governor1 ,sir ,james ,fergusson1 the foundation of several important establishments and undertakings4 ,since the beginning of his administration in #ahef1 the number of public schools has been considerably increased1 the town supplied with gas1 and well-arranged public baths established4 ,the city does not possess a single well or spring2 the water used is obtained from tanks1 in which the rain is collected4 ,the quantity of rain that fell during the twelve months of #ahee amounted to #gh inches2 in #ahef1 it is said to have been only #bd inches4 ,nevertheless1 there is at no time any scarcity of water4 ,the ,government have lately caused the erection of a distilling apparatus for making sea-water fit for domestic purposes1 which1 however1 hitherto has not been used4 ,the population of ,gibraltar1 including the garrison of #fjjj men1 amounts to about #bj1jjj souls1 consisting of ,spaniards1 ,english1 ,italians 7mostly ,genoese71 ,portuguese1 ,moors1 ,turks1 ,greeks1 and ,jews2 indeed1 a mixture of races1 customs1 and manners such as scarcely can be found at any other place in ,europe4 ,the native residents call ,gibraltar briefly the rock1 and themselves1 with a kind of pseudo-patriotism1 rock people1 though by the officers of the garrison and navy generally complimented with the name of rock-scorpions4 ,the permanent settling of foreigners1 in consequence of its being a fortress1 requires a number of formalities1 which have the effect of limiting the population2 and even the ,english portion must be considered migratory1 as it consists chiefly of military and government officers1 who1 after the lapse of certain intervals1 exchange in regular order4 ,the only really beautiful walk in the place is ,elliott's ,gardens1 situated at the south end of the town1 laid out in a grand style1 but disfigured by a tasteless bronze statue of ,general ,elliott 7afterwards ,lord ,heathfield71 the heroic defender of ,gibraltar in #aghb4 ,in the evenings1 when one of the military bands is performing1 the grounds are thronged by visitors on foot1 horseback1 and in carriages1 whilst loving couples1 of all races and grades1 ramble in happy union through the shady avenues4 ,near the gardens1 towards the south1 is a second quarter of the city1 which mostly consists of government buildings4 ,on the lowest terrace1 which juts furthest into the sea1 stands the lighthouse1 on the celebrated ,europa ,point4 ,illustration3 ,,south ,,gate1 ,,gibraltar4 ,gibraltar is connected with the ,spanish continent by a sandy neck of land1 called by the ,spaniards ,el ,istmo1 and by the ,english the neutral ground4 ,it runs between the ,mediterranean and the bay1 one mile and a half in length and #bgjj feet in breadth4 ,this plain1 which is not more than #aj feet above the water1 owes its origin to the formation of a dune in the rocky bed of the ocean4 ,strong easterly gales seem by degrees to have accumulated the sand on this shallow run of the sea1 which formerly separated ,gibraltar from ,spain4 ,a similar sand formation1 near ,catalan ,bay1 has attained the enormous height of #ajjj feet4 ,the ,government have caused a portion of the sand1 at the point where the isthmus joins the rock1 to be excavated1 and the water of the bay to be let in1 so that there only remains a narrow low dyke of firm ground1 which probably in time of war may be completely submerged4 ,the stagnant water of this cut must1 however1 during the hot season1 considerably increase the amount of fever4 ,from ,may till ,october the troops are encamped under tents on this isthmus1 along which the neighbouring ,spaniards come to market daily in crowds1 with provisions of all kinds1 displaying their rancour against the foreign intruders by endeavouring to make them pay the highest possible price for their produce4 ,the adjacent ,spanish settlements1 ,campamiento and ,st4 ,roque1 are much resorted to by excursionists from ,gibraltar1 and1 during the summer1 are selected by numerous families for even a longer stay2 for however little pleasure or interest a ride over this arid and sandy plain affords1 once arrived at ,campamiento1 the rider enjoys a most charming prospect1 while there is probably no other point from which the isolated rock appears more grand or picturesque than from this neat little village4 ,in following the road that runs from ,campamiento along the bay1 the charming little town of ,algeziras is reached4 ,it lies on the western shore1 exactly opposite ,gibraltar1 with which it is in regular correspondence by daily steamers4 ,algeziras1 formerly a poor fishing-village1 has greatly increased in extent and prosperity1 through the smuggling trade4 ,this clean and pretty-looking place has a population of #aj1jjj souls1 and makes by contrast an extremely pleasant impression on coming from the dismal and gloomy fortress4 ,men and things here have quite an ,andalusian appearance4 ,the small but neat one-storied houses are mostly painted a bright white1 and ornamented with green verandahs2 at almost every window beautiful flowers are exhibited2 and the public promenade1 shaded by fine trees1 is delightful4 ,the principal square is likewise planted with trees1 and the lower stories of its houses are occupied by apothecaries' shops1 coffee-rooms1 confectioners1 and one by a bookseller even4 ,the churches appear in every respect insignificant2 the hospital of ,san ,juan de ,dios1 however1 is an ancient and noble structure1 the management of which is admirable4 ,one of the arrangements here was eminently characteristic of ,spain3 in the ward for male patients stands at the upper end1 by the side of the beds for common patients1 a large1 broad1 elegantly-polished bedstead1 which1 the porter told us1 was intended for caballeros4 ,at a short distance from the town is the ,amphitheatre ,constantia1 a large wooden booth1 said to hold nearly #ijjj spectators4 ,it is chiefly used for bull-fights1 which always attract a large audience4 ,the aqueduct here1 taken with the fine scenery around1 forms an exceedingly picturesque object4 ,the inhabitants of ,gibraltar sometimes make excursions to the peninsula of ,ceuta 7the ,sebta of the ,moors71 situated on the opposite coast of ,africa4 ,the lighthouse of this little promontory has been lately furnished with a ,fresnel apparatus1 throwing out a most intense light1 which is visible at a greater distance than any other observed during our voyage4 ,this place1 which is used by the ,spaniards as a penal settlement1 numbers #fejj inhabitants1 and has a very indifferent harbour4 ,the rock people also occasionally make excursions to ,tangier1 the most westerly town of the strait1 and the most important as regards the commerce of ,morocco4 ,a great number of steamers on their various routes touch at ,gibraltar1 for discharging and embarking freight and passengers1 and to coal4 ,the quantity of the latter thus shipped is estimated at #cj1jjj tons annually1 all imported from ,england4 ,there is also a regular correspondence by sailing vessels with all the leading ,italian ports1 and those of the ,levant1 as well as with ,constantinople1 ,corfu1 and ,trieste4 ,gibraltar being a free port1 there are no customs' dues1 except those on wines and spirits4 ,all flags enjoy equal privileges1 and in all disputes the ,english law decides4 ,it is impossible to obtain a satisfactory statement of the amount of imports and exports1 as no ,custom-house exists1 and the official reports merely give the number and nationality of the flags of the ships that arrive and depart4 ,smuggling is carried on to a great extent1 and1 being a lucrative trade1 will continue to be so1 as long as ,spain retains her prohibitory duties on ,english goods4 ,the principal items of commerce in ,gibraltar are ,english cotton goods1 which are exported to ,barbary in considerable quantities4 ,to compete successfully with the ,english in this branch of trade would be very difficult for any other nation2 but there are a great number of other articles which might find a ready sale on the ,african coast1 and which are produced cheaper in several ,states of the ,european continent than in ,england2 a consideration of so much the more importance in trading with the ,moors1 that these people regard lowness of price rather than the quality of the goods4 ,for this very reason1 small but industrious ,belgium has become a powerful competitor of mighty ,england4 ,thus1 for instance1 that country exports to ,morocco1 by way of ,gibraltar1 sugar1 both in loaves and crushed1#h hardware and cutlery1 nails and screws1 zinc1 as well as all sorts of earthenware and glass4 ,a portion of these articles goes into the neighbouring ,spanish provinces4 ,footnote #h3 ,the superior quality and cheapness of ,belgian sugars have of late in a great measure driven all others out of the market4 ,it is also worthy of remark1 that though ,gibraltar is a ,british colony1 all the accounts are kept in ,spanish currency1 and that there are more ,spanish and ,french coins in circulation than ,english1 which1 when changed1 even sustain a small loss4 ,the ,spanish measures and weights also are more in use than the ,english4 ,it is rather singular that the ,belgian glass goods are in ,gibraltar represented as of ,german manufacture1 and thereby obtain a readier sale4 ,this seems to be a proof that ,german 7i4 e4 ,bohemian7 glass articles have been patronized before the ,belgian1 and lost the market only through the importation of the latter4 ,the intercourse between ,gibraltar and ,spain is carried on by coasting vessels1 and by ,french as well as ,spanish steamers1 while the postal communication with ,great ,britain is conducted by the ,peninsular and ,oriental ,steam ,packet ,company4 ,correspondence with ,spain and other parts of the ,continent is carried on overland1 but is little to be relied upon1 as1 owing to the horrible condition of the ,spanish roads1 a delay of from six to eight days sometimes occurs in bad weather4 ,between ,gibraltar and ,cadiz1 a distance of only sixty ,english miles1 the letter-bag is said to have often been six days on its way4 ,the narrative of our stay at ,gibraltar would be defective if we omitted mention of the numerous proofs of hospitality we experienced on all sides4 ,invitations were repeatedly received from the ,convent 7,government ,house71 as well as from private families1 and everywhere we experienced the most cordial reception4 ,we must in particular mention a visit paid to ,captain ,warden1 the superintendent of the station and arsenal1 as it afforded an opportunity of becoming acquainted with a feature in the ,english naval service1 as practical as it is worthy of imitation4 ,the superintendent of the arsenal inhabits a beautiful roomy house1 belonging to the ,government1 situated in a large garden1 well planted with splendid plane-trees1 laurel1 and orange-trees1 and ornamented with most beautiful and odoriferous flowers4 ,as a superintendent's income would not admit the outlay necessary properly to furnish so large an edifice1 this is done by contractors1 who let out the furniture at the rate of five per cent4 annually on the value4 ,this sum is deducted monthly from the pay4 ,the same system is also adopted on board ,english men-of-war4 ,the cabins of the officers are there furnished and provided with all the requisite comforts by contractors under the superintendence of the ,admiralty4 ,the value of each article is marked in a printed list deposited with the authorities4 ,the captain pays a yearly rate of five per cent4 on the valuation1 and binds himself besides1 in the event of the ship's being paid off1 or of being appointed to another vessel1 to return in good condition all the articles specified1 and pay the value noted in the list for everything missing4 ,this agreement is registered at the ,admiralty1 and the contractor receives the amount monthly4 ,the advantage of such an arrangement to the commander of a ship will be more fully appreciated by those who1 from personal experience1 are aware of the expense attending an outfit1 and the great loss which an officer transferred from one ship to another suffers through a sudden and forced sale of his property4 ,the commander of a ship is moreover often not in a condition to spend for his personal outfit a sum of perhaps a thousand pounds sterling1 but he can conveniently pay annually from #dj to #ej for the hire in monthly instalments2 and it thus becomes easier for him to maintain the appearance due to his position4 ,the commander and officers of the ,caroline1 which1 after an absence since the #abth of ,may1 had rejoined us on the #bcrd1 were1 like ourselves1 received in the kindest manner by all the authorities of ,gibraltar4 ,it had been arranged that we should make the voyage to ,madeira in company with the ,caroline1 but an unexpected incident prevented it4 ,the small-pox#i made its appearance on board1 and although in a mild form and in but a few cases1 yet it was sufficiently alarming to interrupt1 as a matter of precaution1 all communication1 and to postpone indefinitely her departure1 as a great part of the crew might be overtaken with the disease whilst at sea1 exposed to sudden changes of temperature1 thereby causing the most serious consequences4 ,such is not the case with diseases which are in some degree localized1 as cholera1 yellow fever1 dysentery1 c41 when it is even prudent to set sail1 notwithstanding the presence of the malady1 as a change of place and climate is frequently accompanied with beneficial results4 ,footnote #i3 ,as there has lately been some difference amongst the medical men of ,europe as to the utility of vaccination1 the following observations from the report of ,dr4 ,wawra1 the principal physician on board the ,caroline1 regarding the appearance and the course of this epidemic1 may not be out of place3--,a day before our departure from ,trieste a man complained of a slight fever and headache1 and his skin was covered with spots which were judged at once to be indications of an approaching eruption of small-pox4 ,the man was immediately sent on shore as a matter of precaution2 but1 nevertheless1 eight days after our departure we had a second1 and ten days after that a third case3 the epidemic was on board1 and though in a mild form1 yet serious consequences were apprehended4 ,the re-vaccination of the men was therefore decided upon1 and carried out1 as far as the virus on board would admit4 ,only five individuals of the whole had not been vaccinated at all2 some had undergone the operation in their childhood1 a great part of them1 however1 had been vaccinated on board other vessels1 from two to five years before4 ,only fourteen cases occurred4 ,most remarkable1 and evidently in favour of those who advocate re-vaccination1 is the fact1 that amongst most of those who had been vaccinated in their childhood1 the disorder was more severe than among those who had been re-vaccinated on board the ship4 ,among those who had never undergone the operation before1 the vaccination on board was most successful2 not one of them caught the disorder4 ,among the re-vaccinated only four cases occurred1 with slighter symptoms than among those who had been once only operated upon4 ,we met with several instances of the kind at other places where we touched4 ,at ,buenos ,ayres1 where the vaccination laws are stricter than anywhere else1 the small-pox is extremely rare4 ,among the ,brazilians1 who entertain an absolute prejudice against vaccination1 the variola is one of the most common and most frightful diseases4 ,it prevails still worse amongst the negro slaves1 among whom1 from the ignorance and prejudice of their masters1 vaccination is neglected4 ,the white marks of the disease are particularly visible in the black skin1 and are evident proofs how virulently it has raged amongst them4 ,after we had got through our duties at ,gibraltar1 an attempt was made1 with the first favourable wind1 to set sail and reach the ,atlantic2 the ,caroline remaining behind for the benefit of the sick on board4 ,she was to follow only when the health of the crew no longer excited any apprehension4 ,on the #cjth ,may the wind changed to south1 and as the current in the harbour was also favourable1 we weighed anchor in the hope that in the ,straits we might meet with an easterly wind4 ,the ,novara passed the ,caroline1 which saluted with a round of cheers1 when we tacked to clear the roads1 after which all sail was hoisted to beat out against the western current in the ,straits4 ,the sea was covered with a mucous substance1 which generally indicates that there is scarcely a chance of a fresh breeze2 however1 even the little we had1 would have sufficed to carry us through the ,straits1 but towards #f ,p4,m4 a perfect calm overtook us1 and notwithstanding the press of sail1 we were carried back towards the ,east1 and about midnight found ourselves again in the ,mediterranean1 which did not seem disposed to part with us4 ,there was no improvement next day1 and at sunset we were exactly twenty-five miles east from the point we had occupied the preceding day4 ,the clouds passed from ,west to ,east across the moon1 and in the night from the #cast of ,may to the #ast of ,june the westerly wind became so fresh that we had even to reef the sails4 ,current1 wind1 sea1 everything was against us2 even tacking was of no service1 as we lost ground visibly with each tack4 ,when at last all hope of making the ,west had disappeared1 we anchored1 like many others of our companions in sorrow1 on the #ast ,june1 at #f ,p4,m41 in the ,bay of ,frangerola1 fifteen miles north of ,malaga4 ,here were anchored nearly sixty merchantmen1 all wind-bound4 ,behind the ,punta ,molinos1 near ,malaga1 there must have been quite as many more4 ,fresh additions were constantly being made to the already considerable fleet1 which had involuntarily collected together1 whilst those merchantmen which with fruitless obstinacy kept on tacking about us1 were getting more and more out of their course1 as with every successive hour their position was changed for the worse4 ,illustration3 ,,inhabitant ,,of ,,frangola4 ,in the hope of a favourable wind we were all a-taunto on the #bnd ,june1 perfectly prepared for a start4 ,under these circumstances no one could go on shore1 but an officer was despatched in a boat to make inquiries as to whether there were any sanitary board in the neighbouring village4 ,a relative of the ,president of the ,junta de la ,sanidad came on board1 and stated that1 though as a rule only vessels clearing from ,spanish harbours were permitted to have intercourse with the shore1 an exception should be made in favour of ourselves4 ,this ,andalusian was very communicative1 and amongst other things told us that the inhabitants were supported almost entirely by fishing4 ,many ships had now been waiting several weeks for a favourable wind to pass the ,straits4 ,some had thrice attempted to sail towards the ,west1 but in every case were driven back by wind and current4 ,in #ahdg1 a year of scarcity1 ,louis ,philippe had caused several ,french steamers to be stationed in the ,straits in order to take in tow ships coming from the ,black ,sea laden with grain1 and thereby to facilitate their passage between the ,mediterranean and the ,atlantic4 ,in the afternoon we had a visit from about thirty inhabitants of ,frangerola1 who came on board in fishing-boats to view the ship4 ,none of these people had ever seen so large a man-of-war1 and they all therefore regarded the ship with great curiosity4 ,the ship's band greatly delighted them1 but the signal-gun at sunset seemed to terrify them and to hasten their departure4 ,in the evening we felt from time to time some warm blasts of wind from the east1 and enjoyed for nearly an hour the delightful spectacle of a ,fata ,morgana4 ,this phenomenon1 as is well known1 arises from two currents of air of a different density1 separated by a distinctly-formed plane1 generally produced when the temperature of the two currents happens to vary4 ,when1 for instance1 as is frequently the case at sea1 a considerably warmer current of air comes suddenly in contact with a colder current having a lower position1 the plane of separation of the former becomes condensed1 and forms a mirror for all those objects which are in the lower current1 so that their image is inversely reflected4 ,as this surface of separation is not level throughout1 various contractions and distortions result1 which impart to the whole a singular appearance4 ,on land1 as for instance in the deserts of ,africa1 where the warmer current of air is on the surface of the ground1 the arial mirror is formed beneath the eye of the observer1 by which the same phenomenon is produced that results from the reflection of objects on the surface of the water4 ,in the present case the temperature of the atmosphere was about ten degrees higher than that of the sea's surface at the point of observation4 ,the surface of the current of warm air appeared like a light fog1 inclining in the ,east towards the ,spanish coast1 and in the ,south-east to ,south towards the surface of the sea4 ,where it was highest it reached nearly five degrees above the horizon4 ,the images of the ships at anchor near ,malaga1 and those at sea under sail1 appeared reversed1 and assumed curiously fantastic forms1 particularly in those places where the reflecting surface became irregular1 and inclined towards the horizon4 ,the appearance of these distorted ships in the air1 joining in the most singular way the real ones actually floating on the sea1--the warm vapour which is from time to time wafted on the face of the observer1 as well as the perfect and almost death-like stillness which1 under such circumstances1 prevails both on the sea and in the atmosphere1 may easily produce the belief in a mysterious power1 among a people who are generally prone to ascribe to supernatural agencies every phenomenon they cannot understand or explain4 ,this ,fata ,morgana#aj was not merely interesting in itself1 but also gave reason to indulge in the hope of a favourable wind4 ,a light easterly breeze accordingly sprang up towards midnight1 the current became reversed1 the anchor was weighed1 and all sail made with this favourable wind towards ,gibraltar1 the rock of which was distinctly recognizable through the misty air1 at a distance of nearly sixty miles4 ,footnote #aj3 ,the name ,morgana is of ,breton origin1 and signifies sea woman1 from mor1 sea1 and gan1 a fine woman2--the fairy mermaid of ,english legendary tales4 ,a calm still prevailed near ,europa ,point1 but as the day wore on1 the easterly breeze blew strong through the ,straits1 and1 in company with innumerable other ships1 the ,pillars of ,hercules were at length passed4 ,the wind freshened1 and the frigate cracked merrily on down mid-channel2 for1 though the set of the current was dead against us1 yet the wind proved more than a match for it1 which in our case was the more apparent1 that those merchantmen which sailed along the coast1 not having the advantage of this wind1 seemed as though left motionless in the rear4 ,when towards noon the ,novara was off the place where the ,caroline had been anchored1 that ship was no longer visible4 ,she had probably set sail in the morning4 ,we supposed her to be among the crowd of ships which were sailing in the fog1 but did not discover her1 even after we had overtaken and examined all of them4 ,we now endeavoured to reach the ,atlantic as speedily as possible1 making from nine to ten knots an hour1 and1 with joyful sensations1 sailed through those beautiful straits1 on whose shores the ancient world unrolled its grand panorama1 thanking ,providence here1 at the entrance of that vast ocean1 which now shone so brilliantly1 that we were permitted to carry the ,austrian flag into distant regions4 ,at #d ,p4,m41 aided by the fresh evening breeze1 we passed the most southerly point of ,europe4 ,we were just going to dinner when the last glimpse of the old world passed before the cabin windows1 and we gazed once more with sorrowing eyes at the rapidly-disappearing coast1 which1 illuminated by the rays of the setting sun1 seemed to wave us a last farewell in letters of fire4 ,however beautiful1 however inspiring the prospect of our task2 however inviting the magnificent ocean that lay extended under our eyes1 magically lit up by the silvery beams of the bright moon shining from a starry sky1 yet the painful sensations of parting with that old world1 with which so many pleasing associations--so many cherished recollections were bound up1 had a powerful influence1 and gave rise to melancholy impressions1 of which we were only relieved by the comforting hope that we should one day return to all so dear to us4 ,illustration3 ,,cape ,,trafalgar4 ,the night was delightful4 ,not a single cloud obscured the sky1 and the ship1 with all sails swelled by a fair wind1 ploughed the dark waves1 leaving a glittering track behind4 ,we were now on the ocean6 ,below1 blue1 foam-crested billows2 above1 the sky studded with stars2--below1 the wide desert of the sea2 above1 the infallible guides to lead us safely through it4 ,we awoke to new activity on that great element1 which conceals so many charms and so many hardships1 where the continued alternations of hope and fear1 of enjoyment and privation--where weariness and disappointment1 and yet again the new strength imparted by returning success--so excitingly animate1 and so gloriously manifest the innate power of the human mind4 ,life on board1 the various excitements at sea1 the different countries and people seen during a voyage1 all tend to arouse feelings and sensations which are reserved for the mariner alone1 and which render his life1 if he knows how to use it properly1 happy and most enviable4 ,at sea the mental and physical eye gains strength1 man there seeks to unravel ,nature in all her phases1 and to know and to admire more thoroughly her works4 ,the seaman owes his energy1 his straightforwardness1 and his piety1 to a life spent in the midst of nature1 to his direct intercourse with creation4 ,between him and the ,sovereign of the ,universe there is1 as it were1 no mediator--he lives and labours uninterruptedly on the steps of the throne of his ,creator and ,preserver4 ,in this great temple he directs to ,him alone his complaints1 his thanks1 and his prayers4 ,at sea he learns law and order from ,nature herself in her constantly-recurring functions2 here he admires the omnipotence and goodness of ,god in the sunrise after a stormy night1 and in the brightness of the moon that lights up his path2 here he learns by his actual experience the truth of that maxim of life1 that ,god only helps him who helps himself4 ,the wind1 hitherto easterly1 chopped round to the ,north-east1 which1 according to ,maury's excellent directions and charts1 may be considered as a trade wind1 and in this season might be called so4 ,in fact1 the trade winds are produced by a current of air1 which is directed towards the ,equator1 and only in consequence of the earth's motion round its axis acquires a north-easterly direction to the north of the equator1 and a south-easterly to the south of it4 ,but the trade winds become perceptible at a certain distance from the equator1 or rather from the hottest zone of the earth's surface2 and it is clear1 that when the zone assumes a greater breadth1 the boundary of the trade winds is extended further towards the poles1 as the position of this zone and its heat obtained from the sun are the causes of these phenomena4 ,this is exactly the case in these waters2 ,africa1 with its sandy deserts1 presents a broader zone of the greatest heat than is possible on the sea1 and the trade winds1 accordingly1 reach further towards the north4 ,its direction1 however1 cannot always be north-easterly1 and depends necessarily on the direction of the northern boundaries of this zone of greatest heat4 ,accordingly1 we at first had a more northerly wind1 which in our progress towards ,madeira became much more easterly4 ,the weather continued on the whole beautiful1 the sea was calm1 and only the increased length of the waves showed the greater expanse of water we were now navigating4 ,we overtook some other ships1 which were sailing towards the west4 ,as we saw nothing of the ,caroline1 we concluded that she was considerably ahead4 ,the current1 which near ,gibraltar has a westerly direction1 tending towards the ,mediterranean1 loses its power at a distance from the land1 and half-way to ,madeira it changes its direction in such a way that the ship is carried imperceptibly southwards1 though only a few miles a-day4 ,this current is a lateral branch of the great ,gulf ,stream1 which from the ,gulf of ,mexico is directed towards ,england1 but about the latitude of ,new ,york sends off a branch in a south-easterly direction1 which passes round ,madeira1 and1 near the ,canaries1 takes a parallel direction with the coast of ,africa and forms the commencement of the ,guinea current4 ,the temperature of the sea water1 which in the midst of this current is generally rather higher than that of the air1 indicates to the mariner that he is in the ,stream1 and he must take care that his ship is not carried more to the south out of its course than he wishes4 ,this shows clearly of what importance ocean-currents are to navigation2 and it becomes evident that it is the duty of the scientific navigator not only to find out their direction and strength1 but to use all means at his command1 in order to ascertain their general movement in given districts of ocean4 ,for this latter purpose1 it is customary 7as often as circumstances seem to render it advisable7 to throw overboard1 and commit to the mercy of these currents1 a well-corked empty bottle1 in which has been deposited a card with the name and position of the ship4 ,the bottle thus prepared1 and made conspicuous by a covering of white linen cloth1 or some such material1 wanders hither and thither with the current1 until it is picked up by some other ship1 or is stranded anywhere on terra firma4 ,the fact of such a bottle having been picked up is usually published1 together with the particulars enclosed1 by means of which it is obvious that an estimate can be formed of the average strength and direction of the current4 ,at #a ,p4,m4 each afternoon1 it was our custom to despatch one of these ocean-posts1 under given conditions2 but only rarely did we afterwards receive any information with respect to them4 ,in each bottle was placed a card with the following particulars1 written in ,german1 ,english1 ,french1 ,italian1 and ,spanish3-- ,h4,i4,m4 frigate1 ,novara1 such and such a day of the week and month1 hour at which thrown overboard1 ,longitude from ,greenwich1 ,latitude4 ,whoever finds this bottle1 which is about being thrown overboard well-corked and in good order1 is requested to forward for publication1 to the nearest spot at which there is a newspaper1 the day1 hour1 latitude and longitude1 in which the bottle has been found1 together with the particulars of a similar nature already enclosed4 ,on the #gth ,june1 towards evening1 we were not more than #ee nautical miles distant from the ,e4 point of ,madeira1 and as the wind was favourable and pretty fresh1 it became necessary to shorten sail1 so as to reach the anchorage by daybreak4 ,about #b4cj ,a4,m41 a vessel was perceived1 which1 by its lights1 was made out to be a man-of-war4 ,we now burned a port fire which was not merely replied to1 but accompanied by signalling the number of the ,caroline4 ,she was steering exactly our own course1 and after having had to struggle with calms on nearing the coast1 we cast anchor together1 in the roads of ,funchal1 in #cb fathoms1 sandy bottom1 immediately ,south of the ,loo ,rock1 a singular-looking1 lofty1 conical rock1 which marks the best anchorage for large ships4 ,the ,u4 ,s4 corvette1 ,dale1 lay in our vicinity1 and sent a boat on board with an officer to extend to us the usual greetings1 after which she saluted the ,commodore's standard with a salute of thirteen guns1#aa which1 as is the etiquette1 we returned1 gun for gun4 ,we now had the pleasure of hearing that the small-pox had entirely disappeared on board the corvette ,caroline1 those attacked being now in a fair way of convalescence1 while on board the ,novara1 the health of the ship's company was eminently satisfactory4 ,footnote #aa3 ,commodores of other nations receive only eleven guns by way of salute4 ,illustration3 ,,loo ,,rock 7,,madeira74 ,illustration3 ,,scene ,,in ,,madeira4 ,,iv4 ,madeira4 ,,from ,,the #h,,th ,,to ,,the #ag,,th ,,of ,,june1 #aheg4 ,first ,impressions4--,difficulty in ,landing4--,description of the ,island4--,history4--,unfavourable political circumstances connected with the cultivation of the ground4--,aqueducts4-- ,first ,planting of the ,sugar-cane4--,culture of the ,vine4--,its ,disease and ,decay4--,cochineal as a compensation for its loss4-- ,prospects of ,success4--,climate4--,a favourable ,winter ,residence for the ,consumptive4--,strangers4--,first ,appearance of the ,cholera4--,observations with the ,ozonometer4--,great ,distress among the ,lower ,classes4--,liberal ,assistance from ,england4-- ,decline of ,commerce4--,inhabitants and their ,mode of ,life4-- ,decrease of the ,population1 and its ,causes4--,benevolent ,institutions4--,public ,libraries4--,the ,cathedral4--,barracks4-- ,prison4--,environs of ,funchal4--,excursion to ,st4 ,anna4--,ascent of the ,pico ,ruivo4--,singular ,sledge ,party4--,return to ,funchal4--,departure4 ,delightful and striking is the first impression of ,funchal1 its luxuriant gardens smiling with gorgeous flowers1 and its mountain sides cultivated almost to their summits2 and although the grander and more gigantic forms of true tropical vegetation are wanting1 and the landscape displays rather the character of an island off the shores of ,italy than of the torrid zone--still ,nature exhibits herself here with such varied charms that imagination can scarcely conceive a sweeter or lovelier scene4 ,the most beautiful plants of the temperate and sub-tropical zones meet here in their highest development1 whilst some representatives of the tropics intermixed enhance the richness of the wonderful picture4 ,odoriferous magnolias1 large flowering tulip trees1 plane trees1 laurels1 myrtles1 acacias1 passion and trumpet flowers1 tree-like fuchsias with immense blossoms1 gaudy hortensias1 sweet-smelling roses1 blooming oleanders1 aloes1 #dj feet high1 in full flower1 imposing camellias with shining green foliage1 covered with beautiful rose-like flowers1 chestnut trees1 ,brazilian pines1 cypresses--all delight the eye1 together with pomegranates1 tamarinds1 bananas1 sugar-canes1 coffee-shrubs1 gigantic dragon trees1 pine-apples1 mangroves1 papayas1 and aquacats4 ,certainly1 at a later date1 we met in the primitive forests of the ,nicobar islands1 or in ,java1 ,luzon1 and the ,caroline islands1 with grander and more imposing scenery2 but none that surpassed in fragrance1 luxuriance1 and loveliness the floral beauty of ,madeira4 ,the anchorage of ,funchal#ab is merely an open1 exceedingly unsafe roadstead1 which affords so little protection to ships that often in southerly winds they are obliged to get under sail4 ,this is especially the case in the winter1 when the sea often rushes into the small unprotected bay with fearful violence4 ,in ,october1 #ahdb1 five vessels were cast on shore within the space of a few hours1 and another sank whilst at anchor2 a similar violent gale from the south raged in ,december1 #ahdh1 when a like number of ships met with the same fate1 and were dashed to pieces4 ,the ,british sloop of war ,daphne only escaped by making the open sea in time4 ,in order to run less risk of being surprised by such gales1 sailing vessels generally cast anchor to the south of the ,loo ,rock1 where there is tolerably safe anchorage at a depth of twenty-five to thirty fathoms4 ,in that position they are clear of the rocky headlands1 and can therefore more easily set sail before the sea rushes in with all its irresistible violence4 ,steamers1 which are better able to resist the force of the waves than sailing vessels1 generally cast anchor nearer the shore1 so that passengers may be more easily landed1 and coals shipped with greater facility4 ,footnote #ab3 ,the ,portuguese for fennel-field1 because the first discoverers of the island found this plant in great abundance4 ,the ,portuguese ,government has done nothing to compensate for the shortcomings of nature with regard to safe landing-places in this island1 otherwise so highly favoured4 ,though the rocky condition of the ,funchal roads1 7the only anchorage for larger ships which the island possesses17 offers sufficient means for the construction of a harbour for boats and small vessels1 yet the ,government has hitherto done so little1 that the landing of passengers can only be effected by small1 peculiarly-built boats1 which1 whilst tossed by the waves1 have to be drawn on shore by the natives wading knee-deep in the water4 ,if1 therefore1 the ship remains any length of time at ,funchal1 the communication with the land is attended with considerable expense4 ,we laid out1 in payments to the boatmen1 during a stay of nine days1 the sum of forty-five ,spanish piastres#ac 7#i #aes4 sterling71 although they had not over-charged us4 ,footnote #ac3 ,spanish piastre #ds4 #d;d4 at par4 ,the formalities at the custom-house1 which strangers--even those belonging to a ship-of-war of a friendly ,power--have to go through1 are extremely annoying1 and entail a great loss of time4 ,before landing1 passengers' boats are boarded in the open roads by officers1 who are stationed a few cable lengths from the shore4 ,on landing1 the stranger is obliged to repair to the custom-house1 where even small and open packages are subjected to a second rigid examination4 ,the time lost during this process1 unnecessarily minute1 is exceedingly unpleasant4 ,the reason assigned for these vexatious regulations is the extent to which1 of late1 smuggling has been carried on in the island1 and which1 in the opinion of the ,governor1 required these measures of precaution4 ,it seems1 however1 that this system rather promotes contraband trading1 by making it very lucrative4 ,the ,austrian consul1 ,charles ,bianchi1 ,esq41 did all in his power to diminish the frequency of the continual examinations1 and likewise1 in all other respects1 endeavoured to promote the objects of the ,expedition4 ,the greatest length of the island of ,madeira1 from ,ponta ,furado in the east1 to ,ponta do ,pargo1 in the west1 amounts to #cj miles2 its greatest breadth1 from ,ponta do ,cruz in the south1 to ,ponta do ,sa ,jorge in the north1 is #ab-a_/b miles1 and its area is about #bdj square miles4 ,this volcanic and mountainous island is intersected by innumerable deep ravines and defiles1 and its whole surface is so much broken and irregular1 that the representation ,columbus once gave to ,queen ,isabella1 of the ,island of ,jamaica1 when she asked him for a description of its configuration1 might perfectly be applied to the aspect of ,madeira also4 ,the great navigator1 after having crushed a sheet of paper in his hand1 and partly opened it again1 placed it on the table1 saying1 he could convey to ,her ,majesty no clearer idea of that island than that crumpled piece of paper afforded4 ,a large portion of the island is not susceptible of cultivation2 for the heathy region which constitutes nearly one-third of its surface1 and rises to a height of about #bejj feet above the level of the sea1 is extremely steep1 and too much exposed to winds and rains in summer1 to admit of any kind of cultivation1 even that of grain2 whilst another not less considerable tract is too rocky and precipitous for that purpose4 ,in the south of the island1 the highest limit of cultivation is estimated to be at a height of #bejj feet1 though in several places rye and barley grow at #bhjj feet4 ,in the north of the island1 where a better system of irrigation prevails1 the extreme boundary of cultivation reaches a higher altitude1 and on the declivities of the ,ribeiro ,frio1 it is met with at an elevation of above #cjjj feet4 ,the earlier history of the island has had such a great influence upon its present industrial and social condition1 that a few remarks on the most important features of its history may find a place here4 ,madeira was discovered in #adai1 by two ,portuguese1 ,joa ,gonsalvo da ,camara#ad and ,trista ,teixeira1 and1 about #adba1 a colony of ,europeans settled on the island4 ,camara obtained1 as a gift for his discovery1 the south-eastern1 and ,teixeira the north-eastern part of the island1 together with the most extensive powers and privileges4 ,funchal was then the principal place of ,camara's territory1 and ,machico that of ,teixeira's4 ,these two recipients 7donatarios7 enjoyed the exclusive privileges of erecting flour and saw mills2 they alone were allowed to build ovens for public baking 7private baking being permitted to all72 they1 moreover1 had the monopoly of trading in salt1 had claims upon the tithes of the royal revenues1 and were empowered to grant portions of the land to settlers4 ,every settler was required to erect within five years a house1 a cottage1 or barn1 on his ground1 and to cultivate the land4 ,if these conditions1 at the expiration of the fixed period1 had not been complied with1 the donor had the right of granting the land to some one else4 ,these grants were hereditary1 and lapsed to the crown1 or the donors1 if alive1 in the event of there being no direct successors4 ,such extraordinary privileges and immunities were deemed necessary in order to reconcile the holders with the dubious character of the early settlers in the island2 for1 though in those times the highest families in ,portugal took part in all adventurous expeditions1 yet most of the settlers were taken from prison and convict hulks2 and the first settlement of ,madeira had much more the character of a place of banishment for criminals than that of a colony of free emigrants4 ,footnote #ad3 ,vulgarly called ,zargo1 or the ,squinter4 ,with a view to obtain more ground for cultivation1 the first settlers are said to have set on fire so large a portion of the primeval forests1 that they were soon unable to check the conflagration4 ,according to old writers1 the fire1 particularly in the south of the island1 lasted several years2 and the heat is said to have been so intense1 that many persons in order to escape from it1 sought refuge on board the ships in the roads of ,funchal4#ae ,footnote #ae3 ,the name ,madeira1 signifying in ,portuguese timber or wood1 justifies the statement that the island was at one time richly wooded4 ,this act of vandalism against nature1 which is confirmed by ancient and modern authors1 is being avenged even at present1 though centuries have passed since the deed4 ,the cedar1 once a denizen of the island1 is no longer to be found2 and only the ceilings of the cathedral and of old houses1 which are constructed of this costly material1 show the magnitude which this noble tree formerly attained in the island4 ,of the dragon tree 7,dracna ,draco71 which was once the ornament of the forests of ,madeira1 there are at present1 in the whole island1 only six or seven specimens in existence1 which are shown as curiosities to strangers4 ,the ,til-tree 7,oreodaphne foetens71 the ,vinhatico 7,persea indica71 and the ,folhado 7,clethra arborea71 formerly the most numerous representatives of the native flora1 are likewise at present very rarely to be met with1 and their places are occupied by plants and trees of the temperate zone1 particularly the ,spanish chestnut1 the fruit of which furnishes the inhabitants with food1 whilst the tree itself has served hitherto in the north of the island as a support to the vine4 ,the destruction of the forests has1 at the same time1 considerably contributed to the modification of the climate in general1 and to the diminution of humidity in particular4 ,at the date of the discovery of the island1 and a long time after1 the ,rio ,socorridos1 the largest river in the island1 is said to have been so deep1 as to float timber from the interior to the sea2 at present this river is quite insignificant1 and almost dried up4 ,the island remained for two centuries in the possession of the direct heirs of the original owners1 and when at last1 from want of legal successors1 these privileges lapsed1 the crown granted them to other favourites2 but with some restrictions4 ,the exclusive right to corn and saw mills was then entirely abolished1 and the salt monopoly with other privileges was retained by the crown4 ,the descendants of the first settlers had in the mean time acquired considerable property in land1 whilst the cultivation of the sugar-cane1 now very generally adopted1 the introduction of negro slaves from ,africa1 and the foundation of large estates1 contributed materially to the prosperity of the inhabitants4 ,the ruins of many large buildings in various parts of the island are even now mute witnesses of the opulence of their former occupants4 ,this prosperous state of the island was1 however1 at the beginning of the last century1 materially affected by the introduction of the so-called vinculos or entails1 which1 introduced under the protection and in favour of the church1 were a great burden upon the land4 ,frequently1 rich proprietors left to the church portions of their incomes in order to have masses said for the repose of their souls1 and encumbered their lands with so many burdens1 that only a small remainder fell to their heirs4 ,so long as these claims were in existence the proprietors could not grant leases for a longer period than four years1 nor impose fresh burdens on their lands4 ,the union of several such vinculos was called a morgado 7entailed property74 ,under the severe but wise administration of the ,marquis of ,pombal1 a law was passed which forbade the future creation of morgados 7unless the property yielded an income of #abjj piastres annually1 and even then the special licence of the crown had to be obtained71 declaring the whole system of entails as contrary to the rights of property and the well-founded claims of the other members of the family4 ,the law of ,dom ,pedro1 dated the #dth ,february1 #ahjb1 was still more severe1 as it allowed at the same time the abolition of single entails1 the value of which was below #bjj ,spanish piastres annually1 as well as that of every morgado1 the annual value of which did not exceed the sum of #fjj piastres4 ,as1 however1 a great number of these entails exceed #bjj piastres1 these oppressive restrictions still weigh upon four-fifths of the land1 notwithstanding the above-mentioned laws4 ,among the creditors who still have claims1 there are three nunneries 7which alone1 of all other similar institutions1 outlived the revolution of #ahba71 the hospital of ,funchal1 and the ,portuguese ,government4 ,the institution of these vinculos and morgados produced a kind of feudal dependency between the cultivator of the estates 7caseiro7 and the landlord or holder of the morgado4 ,on the occasion of his marriage1 or the birth of an heir to the latter1 the caseiro brought presents of such fruits as his land produced2 when the landlord removed from the town into the country1 the caseiro carried his litter and luggage2 in conversation the caseiro addressed the landlord as meu amo 7my lord74 ,the revolution of #ahba did away with many of these usages1 and in various ways altered the relation between the caseiro and the landlord4 ,another impediment to the improvement of agriculture1 is the system of parcelling ground into small allotments1 which has been continued up to the present time4 ,the farms are in general extremely small4 ,in the richer and more fertile parts of the island they rarely exceed an acre in extent1 very often they are not half so large1 and sometimes not even the tenth part of an acre4 ,the late ,conde de ,carvalho1 the proprietor of nearly one-third of the whole island1 had upwards of eight thousand tenants4 ,supposing that this mode of farming existed in the remaining two-thirds1 there would be in ,madeira #bd1jjj farmers1 caseiros or tenants2 or1 taking the population at #ajj1jjj souls1 nearly every fourth inhabitant would be a tenant farmer4 ,this state of things is not to be wondered at1 considering that almost every day-labourer farms a small patch of ground1 the extent of which is not greater than the ordinary size of a large garden bed1 on which he grows vegetables1 potatoes1 figs1 peaches1 sugar-cane1 and sometimes even grain4 ,in the north and west of the island1 where agriculture has made more progress than in the south1 rent is paid in money2 generally1 however1 the system of paying in kind is still in existence1 in which the harvest1 7after deducting the tithe1 which1 at ,madeira1 belongs to the ,state and not to the church17 is divided between the landlord and the tenants4 ,according to this principle the landlord receives half of the produce of the ground1 be it grain1 sugar-cane1 wine1 fruit or vegetables1 which are brought for sale1 and not consumed on the farm itself4 ,it sometimes happens1 however1 that the harvest is sold in a lump1 while yet on the ground4 ,oxen are the only animals employed in agriculture4 ,they are diminutive and singularly unsightly1 but of a very powerful breed1 and furnish very good meat for the table4 ,they are generally fed in stalls1 but in the mountainous districts they graze in open pastures4 ,there are only a few badly-fed sheep on the island1 so that the mutton is almost unfit for consumption4 ,pigs and fowls are in abundance1 and the rearing of poultry is generally the principal means of living possessed by the peasantry4 ,what is asserted by some authors regarding wild rabbits and boars to be met with on the island1 wants confirmation4 ,the few rabbits we saw were perfectly identical with the ,european species 7,lepus cuniculus71 and lead to the supposition that rabbits as well as pigs1 now found in a wild state here and there on the island1 are only the progeny of those which have formerly been introduced from ,europe4 ,the numerous open and walled water conduits 7levadas71 which are of considerable height1 and lead to all parts of the cultivated land1 are of particular importance4 ,each levada is placed under the superintendence of a committee1 selected mostly from the landowners1 who have a direct interest in them4 ,sometimes one person only1 generally the most considerable landowner of the district1 under the title of juiz da levada1 is entrusted with the control of the water1 and receives for his services the use of the water during twenty-four hours4 ,the right of using these levadas is very strictly guarded1 and often leads to law proceedings4 ,every piece of ground within a district through which such a conduit runs1 is entitled to the use of the water by turns1 during a certain number of hours 7generally not more than twenty-four74 ,these turns are different1 according to the extent of the district1 from fifteen to forty days4 ,the distribution of the water is entrusted to a so-called levadeiro1 who places himself at the upper end of the land through which the water is to flow1 and with an hour-glass in his hand measures--a modern ,saturn--the time during which the owner is entitled to the use of the beneficent element4 ,after the expiration of the fixed period1 the water is made to pass on to the ground of another proprietor4 ,these conduits1 so extremely important to the farmer1 were constructed partly at the expense of the ,government1 and partly by the contributions of the landed proprietors4 ,those who have no other title may obtain the right to this privilege either by purchase or by government grant4 ,for every twenty-four hours' use of the levadas #djj reis#af are paid1 which tax is employed to keep them in good order4 ,footnote #af3 #ajjj reis or milreisto one ,spanish piastre1 or about #ds4 #d;d4 ,the high roads of ,madeira are1 with but few exceptions1 in a deplorable condition4 ,they are generally laid with small pointed stones1 and at numerous places they have an inclination of from #bc to #bg degrees4 ,every adult male native is obliged to pay annually one ,spanish piastre1 or to give five days' labour for their repair4 ,on account of the bad condition of the roads in the interior of the island1 most of the natural produce is conveyed from one place to another in boats1 or1 as is the case with wine1 is carried to the harbour in skins and casks1 on the backs of the inhabitants4 ,illustration3 ,,bridge ,,over ,,the ,,ribeiro ,,seco4 ,the first attempt at cultivation in ,madeira was the planting of sugar-canes1 introduced soon after the discovery of the island1 through the instrumentality of ,prince ,henry of ,portugal 7son of ,john ,i471 which grew so abundantly1 that for a considerable period the produce of the island sufficed for the supply of the whole kingdom of ,portugal4 ,in commemoration of this flourishing epoch1 as regards the cultivation of the sugar-cane1 two sugar-loaves were introduced into the arms of the island4 ,in the year #adeb was erected the first sugar factory1 near ,machica1 and at the end of the fifteenth century there existed as many as #abj1 in which slaves chiefly were employed4 ,the ,jesuit1 ,antonio ,cordeyro1 who wrote his ,historia ,insulana ,lusitana at the beginning of last century1 makes mention of a considerable number of sugar factories1 which had been erected in almost every part of the south coast4 ,on the estate of the ,genoese1 ,juan ,esmeralda1 half a league from ,ribeiro do ,taboa1 there were annually manufactured #bj1jjj arrobas#ag of sugar4 ,by degrees1 however1 the culture of the cane fell1 into decay1 whether through disease of the plant or its cheaper production in the ,brazils and ,west ,indies is not known1 so that in the year #ahdj1 only two sugar factories were at work in the whole island2 and even these only produce molasses and rum1 of which the latter1 in the year #ahef1 amounted to #aejj pipes4 ,the cultivation of the sugar-cane1 however1 has increased since the vine disease has fallen so heavily on the landowner4 ,in the summer of #aheg1 there were eighteen factories again in activity on the island1 though so late as #ahee1 the importation of sugar1 for the consumption of the island1 amounted to but #ca1agf arrobas4#ah ,footnote #ag3 ,one arroba #cb arrateles or pounds4 ,one pipe #ajh gallons4 ,footnote #ah3 ,from #fd lbs4 of sugar-cane are obtained #d galls4 of juice1 and from #d galls4 of juice are made #h galls4 of rum4 ,the average price was #bbjj reis per gal4 of sugar-juice4 ,the rum of commerce 7from #bb to #bc degrees7 is sold at one ,spanish piastre the gallon4 ,the greatest elevation at which1 in the south of the island1 the sugar-cane can be grown1 is1 like that of the banana tree1 about #ajjj feet above the level of the sea4 ,in the north1 the cultivation of the cane would be remunerative only at those points where1 as1 for instance1 at ,fayal and ,san ,jorge1 ground and temperature are most favourable for it4 ,to judge by the soil and climate1 the cultivation of the cane in ,madeira might1 with care1 even at the present time1 prove advantageous4 ,in the south-west part of ,lousiana1 where1 in #agif1 this plant was introduced exclusively for the manufacture of ,taffia1#ai there exist at present as many as #aejj sugar factories1 producing annually1 on an average1 #bjj1jjj hogsheads of sugar4 ,the planter of ,madeira is not1 as in ,lousiana1 obliged by the frost to cut the cane before it is ripe2 there it ripens thoroughly1 blooms in ,january1 and is harvested in ,march4 ,footnote #ai3 ,a beverage resembling brandy in taste1 much liked in the ,west ,indies4 ,the motive power of the sugar-mills is mostly water and steam4 ,there are also a dozen large distilleries at work1 possessing the most modern ,english improvements4 ,an acre of land1 planted with sugar-cane1 is said to yield from #ajj to #abj ,spanish piastres1 a result for the landowner more profitable than that arising from the cultivation of the vine1 even in its best days4 ,as regards the culture of cotton1 for which the climate and soil are peculiarly suitable1 no attempt has as yet been made4 ,the same remark applies to olive trees2 though the ,government ordered the latter to be planted so long ago as #agfh4 ,the cultivation of tobacco1 however1 is prevented from extending1 being a government monopoly4 ,as for wheat1 it is not produced in sufficient quantity to meet one quarter of the consumption of the inhabitants4 ,in the year #ahed1 wheat1 to the amount of #baf1iah bushels1 was imported from the north of ,africa alone1 a quantity nearly twice as great as that which the island produces4 ,wheat and maize1 or ,indian corn1 are also imported from the ,azores1 and some ports of the ,mediterranean2 an importation which is likely rather to increase than decrease4 ,the potato belongs to that small class of vegetables which grow at considerable elevations1 and1 by proper irrigation and dressing of the ground1 three harvests may be obtained in the course of the year4 ,the ,inhame not the ,yam 7,dioscorea alata7 of the ,west ,indies and ,south ,america1 but a kind of grume 7,colocasia esculenta7 grows in large quantities near to rivers and water conduits1 where the ground is humid4 ,it is much sought for by the people1 on account of its cheapness1 though rather a coarse kind of food1 which1 as ,cordeyro navely says1 picao algum tanto na garganta 7scratches the throat74 ,sweet potatoes 7,convolvulus edulis1 ,lin471 water-melons1 gourds1 as well as all kinds of ,european garden vegetables1 are found throughout the year in the market1 though not of a particularly good quality4 ,oranges1 lemons1 bananas1 guavas1 pine-apples1 figs1 apricots1 and peaches1 are abundant during the summer season1 and on higher ground even apple and pear-trees are to be met with4 ,on the ,desertas1 three uninhabited little islands south-east of ,madeira1 and belonging to it1 there grows on the rocks the orchilla 7,rocella tinctoria71 a species of lichen1 celebrated for yielding a fine purple colour1 much used in dyeing4 ,considering the great importance for industrial purposes of this lichen1 it might1 with some care1 be advantageously grown in ,madeira4 ,formerly there was a small quantity brought to market1 and sold for #ad1jjj reis the quintal4 ,at the present time the yield has entirely ceased1 though it is found in large quantities in the neighbouring islands4 ,it is considered not to be of such good quality as that of the ,azores1 where1 as is the case with all lichens1 that grow in more southern and warmer climates1 it is of a better quality1 and more highly esteemed4 ,the product1 however1 which hitherto has yielded the largest profit to the natives1 and made the name of ,madeira famous and familiar1 even to those who do not profess a particular interest in the beauties of nature in this romantic island1 is its wine4 ,though this article of exportation has1 through the vine disease1 entirely lost its former importance1 yet it may be of some interest to take a glance at its history and culture1 in order the better to comprehend the magnitude of the calamities that have overwhelmed the people of ,madeira1 in consequence of the bad vintages of the last seven years4 ,the vine was introduced from ,cyprus1 almost at the same time with the sugar-cane1 under the auspices of ,prince ,henry of ,portugal1 in #adbe1 but its culture did not attain much importance till the beginning of the sixteenth century4 ,some authors even suppose that the wine of ,madeira owes its reputation chiefly to those plants which were1 at a much later date1 imported by the ,jesuits from ,candia4 ,this much is certain1 that the produce grown on the estates of the ,jesuits greatly surpassed in quality all others in the island1 and maintained a higher price in the market even when those estates had changed hands4 ,the grape ripens in the north at an elevation of #bgjj feet1 but such as are fitted for the manufacture of wine1 grow only as high as the ,curral das ,freiras 7#bjhj feet74 ,hitherto four sorts of vines have been cultivated in the island1 namely1 the ,bual and ,tinta1 both of which were brought from ,burgundy1 the ,sercial from the ,rhine1 and the ,malvasia or ,malmsey from ,candia4 ,there are four species of the last-mentioned1 7candila1 roxa1 babosa1 and propea72 the delicious flavour of which by many people is considered to have a great similarity with the ,hungarian ,tokayer4 ,the most esteemed sorts were grown west of ,funchal1 near ,cama de ,lobos1 and ,estreita4 ,excellent qualities were grown also at ,santa ,cruz1 on the north side of the island1 and the valleys near ,ponta da ,cruz2 in general1 however1 the grape of the northern district proved to be of inferior quality1 and was therefore only used in the manufacture of rum4 ,in the north the vines were trained on chestnut trees1 but in the south1 as in ,lombardy and the ,tyrol1 in festoons1 supported by a kind of cane 7,arundo sagittata71 and tied up by a species of willow 7,salex rubra71 specially cultivated for that purpose4 ,though nearly a fifth of the cultivated portion of the island was thus planted1 yet the individual vineyards were but small in extent1 the largest of them not exceeding three or four acres4 ,in the wine-growing countries of ,europe fresh plants are set at least every twenty years2 but in ,madeira they are allowed to remain in the ground so long as they yield any fruit4 ,the native growers do not relish improvements2 of all the agricultural implements which some ,english landowners1 settled near ,funchal1 wished to introduce1 the garden-rake alone was adopted by these enemies of innovation4 ,the vineyards of ,madeira were usually let out to farmers 7caseiros71 and rarely cultivated by the proprietors themselves4 ,the yield of an acre was estimated at from one to three pipes4 ,in #ahdh the cost of producing a pipe of ,madeira amounted to from #ab to #dj ,spanish piastres4 ,in the same year the total production of the island amounted to #cj1jjj pipes1 of which only #aj1jjj were exported1 as the inferior sorts1 not keeping well1 are not suited for the foreign markets4 ,of the wines exported1 half went to ,russia and the ,baltic provinces1 the other1 comprising the best kinds1 were sent to ,england1 the ,west ,indies1 and the ,united ,states4 ,up to the year #ahea1 when the last good vintage occurred1 the price of a pipe varied from #ab to #ad ,spanish piastres4 ,so late as #ahde1 when the ,danish corvette ,galatea1 on her voyage round the world for scientific purposes1 put in at this island1 the inferior sorts were so cheap that ,captain ,steen ,bille considered it more profitable to supply the crew with wine mixed with water than beer4 ,since that time prices have become ten times higher1 and the best quality now sells for from #aaj to #aej a pipe1 and will doubtless rise in proportion as the older stores are exhausted4 ,though the yield of the vine had been decreasing1 year after year1 for a considerable time1 yet the actual vine disease only made its appearance in #aheb1 when the leaves and fruit were covered with a kind of fungus 7,odium ,tuckeri71#bj like a white dust4 ,the ,portuguese ,government sent a commission for the purpose of investigating the causes of the calamity4 ,the report#ba is not decisive on the point1 whether the fungus is the real cause or only a symptom of the disease1 nor does it offer any advice as to how it may be checked4 ,dr4 ,hermann ,schacht1#bb who resided during a period of #ah months in the island1 and has published a valuable treatise1 states that the vine-disease appears there in the same form as in ,germany1 even as regards the season1 which is soon after the blossom disappears4 ,at first the young leaf is covered with a whitish matter1 chiefly on its lower side2 it then assumes a crumpled appearance1 becomes spotted1 and at last decays4 ,the young diseased grape likewise becomes covered with a white dust1 at first partially1 and then entirely1 the green skin by degrees assuming a brown colour1 the grape increasing at same time in size1 until it as large as a currant1 or a small cherry1 when it becomes black1 and perishes together with its diseased stock4 ,in this decayed condition the grapes remain on the vine till late in the autumn4 ,dr4 ,schacht was successful in arresting the progress of the disease in its earlier stages1 by washing all parts of the plant with a solution consisting of one part of glue to sixteen parts of water2 an operation which had been likewise performed with good effect in the ,royal hothouses of ,sans-souci in ,prussia4 ,he rubbed the leaves and grapes infected by the fungus with this solution1 and1 where possible1 dipped the grapes in it4 ,the solution very soon dried1 and gave the grapes and leaves a glossy appearance4 ,all that had once been operated upon in this way remained in a healthy condition1 and even those affected by the fungus recovered beneath the crust1 the operation thus seeming to afford a protection against the fungus4 ,the practice of strewing the plant over with powdered sulphur1 which was so much lauded1 seems to be of little use4 ,at ,teneriffe1 ,dr4 ,schacht found the fungus widely spread1 notwithstanding the application of sulphur4 ,keeping the grape close upon the ground is also recommended as a protection against the disease1 having proved very successful in the south4 ,footnote #bj3 ,vide ,botanical ,gazette of #aheb1 page #i2 of #ahec1 page #ehc2 and of #ahed1 page #acg2--;,fulasne1 ,sur le ,champignon1 qui cause la ,maladie de la ,vigne4--,comptes ,rendus1 vol4 xxvii4 #ahec2--;,dr4 ,schacht on ,madeira1 pages #eb to #eh4 ,footnote #ba3 ,memoria primero sobre a mangra e doenza das vinhas nas ilhas da ,madeira e ,porto ,santo1 por ,joao de ,andrade ,corvo4 ,lisbon4 #ahed4 ,footnote #bb3 ,madeira und ,teneriffa mit ihrer ,vegetation1 c4 ,von ,dr4 ,h4 ,schacht4 ,berlin4 #ahei4 ,the pecuniary loss sustained since the first appearance of the malady amounted in the autumn of #aheb to #a1acg1iij ,spanish piastres1 #aij1jjj1bc and after having waited in vain a period of five years1 for a better state of things1 the impoverished landowners entirely gave up cultivating the vine4 ,a traveller who chances now to visit ,madeira can scarcely believe that but a few years ago the greater portion of the island was covered with the plant4 ,the cause of its disappearance must1 however1 not be ascribed entirely to the disease1 but partly also to the utter neglect of its culture in favour of that of other products1 so much so that of late it was scarcely possible to procure a sufficient quantity of grapes for invalids to whom they were medicinally prescribed4 ,moreover1 the sugar plantations1 which annually increase in extent1 have contributed to the destruction of the vines1 as the former require irrigation1 which causes the roots of the latter to rot in the humid ground4#bd ,footnote #bc3 ,the quantity of wine produced amounted1 in the year #ahea1 to #aj1cgd pipes2 in the following year 7#aheb71 only to #adac-a_/b pipes4 ,footnote #bd3 ,the vine disease seems1 however1 to have been already prevalent in ,madeira at a former period4 ,in an old lease1 referring to land or property in the west of the island1 there is a clause to the effect that ,in the event of the young grape being covered with mildew 7mangra71 the contract would be null and void4 ,in ,portugal also1 the disease is said to have existed more than fifty years ago1 though not to a great extent4 ,the present situation of the people of ,madeira claims alike the sympathies of the philanthropist and the attention of the political economist4 ,we here behold a population of upwards of a hundred thousand souls1 deprived at once of a product1 which has been for more than three centuries the principal means of obtaining their living1 and by which many an industrious grower made a considerable fortune4 ,the farmer of ,madeira1 accustomed for generations to this branch of industry1 is now forced to apply his energies to another1 on the fortunate selection of which will depend his welfare for the future1 or at least for years to come4 ,some of the wealthier growers have not entirely abandoned the culture of the vine1 and have been assisted in their endeavours by the ,consul of the ,united ,states in ,funchal1 the liberal-minded ,mr4 ,marsh2 experiments were made by engrafting and setting fresh and healthy plants1 brought from the banks of the ,ohio4 ,they proceeded on the principle1 that it is most advisable1 and likely to be productive of the best success1 to obtain young plants only from countries where the disease has never appeared4 ,the choice fell upon the ,isabella and ,catawba grapes1 which are indigenous to the ,united ,states2 and1 whatever may be the final success1 the merit of transplanting1 at a considerable expense1 these two ,north-,american grapes to ,madeira1 is due to ,mr4 ,marsh4 ,it is1 however1 a question1 whether they will be able to replace those hitherto cultivated1 the conditions of climate and soil being so different4 ,as is well known1 none of the ,european vines succeed in ,north ,america2 and the two indigenous sorts1 which are grown in great quantities on the banks of the ,ohio and the ,missouri1 cannot stand a comparison with any of our finer kinds4 ,the juice of the ,american grapes is best suited for the manufacture of what is called sparkling hock1 which is very like the ,austrian ,schaumwein4 ,some of the wealthier landowners formed an association for the purpose of introducing the culture of cochineal1 to supply the place of that of the vine4 ,several plantations of nopal1 or cactus1 were laid out1 and the first harvest was gathered in #aheh4 ,the nopal 7,opuntia cochinillifera7 is the only kind of cactus on which the cochineal insect breeds1 and the south of the island1 up to an elevation of #ejj feet1 the only part adapted for its cultivation4 ,an attempt was made to introduce the culture of cochineal in the island by ,seor ,miguel de ,carvalho1 as far back as #ahcf4 ,but the indifference of the people1 and their prejudices against innovation1 as well as the limited spirit of enterprise possessed by the native merchants1 rendered the attempt1 in that instance1 abortive4 ,in consequence1 however1 of the vine disease1 the idea of cultivating cochineal was resumed1 without considering1 as it would appear1 the probable results in a mercantile point of view4 ,at the time of our visit there were about thirty acres of land planted with cactus1 and the seed of the cochineal insect was expected from the ,canary ,islands4 ,one cannot but think the notion of substituting the cultivation of cochineal for that of the vine was not a lucky one1 the large capital required1 and the limited market for the article1 holding out small chance of success4 ,the entire consumption of cochineal in the whole world amounts to no more than about #cj1jjj quintals1 and towards this quantity1 ,guatemala furnishes #ae1jjj1 the ,canary ,islands #fjjj1 ,mexico #hjjj1 ,java and the ,philippine ,islands together #ajjj quintals4 ,there is little prospect1 therefore1 that the cochineal culture of ,madeira will ever become an important source of gain1 or advantageously compensate for the loss of the vine4 ,few landowners in the island seem to possess sufficient means to withstand the chances and fluctuations to which its culture is subject4 ,to illustrate this1 it may be mentioned1 that during our visit to the highlands of ,guatemala1 in #ahed1 when the cochineal harvest was bad1 the tercio 7#aej lbs47 of cochineal cost #adj ,spanish piastres4 ,in the following year1 when it was unusually productive1 the price declined to #hj piastres4 ,a tercio of dried cochineal costs the grower1 or nopalero1 about #ej piastres2 a nopal plantation must lie fallow every third year1 being consequently only productive during two years4 ,have the landowners of ,madeira considered all these disadvantages1 and will they be able to bear all the drawbacks peculiar to the culture of cochineal8 ,the climate and soil seem to hold out far greater advantages for the cultivation of the sugar-cane1 coffee1 cotton1 and tobacco4 ,there are few spots on the earth's surface which possess a climate so delightful1 and so little subject to extremes as ,madeira1 the mean annual temperature being #fd degrees ,fahrenheit1 or only #e degrees higher than in the most southern parts of ,europe4 ,the lowest temperature during five years' observation was #ej degrees1 the highest1 #gd4 ,an invalid residing at ,funchal1 within his own doors1 may always have a temperature not lower than #fd1 nor higher than #gd degrees4 ,violent siroccos occur in the course of the summer1 which drive the thermometer up to #ij degrees in the shade2 these storms1 however1 occur only twice or thrice a year1 and rarely last longer than a couple of days4 ,dr4 ,renton1 who lived in ,madeira from #ahbe to #ahca1 only once during all that time saw the thermometer marking #ij degrees1 two hours after sunset4 ,the rainy season1 marked by west and south-west winds1 begins at the end of ,september or the beginning of ,october4 ,in ,november the weather clears up1 and generally keeps fine till the end of ,december4 ,at this period snow falls on the mountains1 and rain at ,funchal1 accompanied by north-westerly winds1 lasting till about the end of ,february1 during which time the weather is wet4 ,the remainder of the year is comparatively dry1 the annual fall of rain at ,madeira amounting1 according to ,sir ,james ,clark1#be to #cf inches1 there being in all about #gc wet days1#bf whilst at ,rome1 for instance1 it rains1 on an average1 during #aag days1 though the amount of rain-fall is only #bi inches4 ,footnote #be3 ,on the ,sanative ,influence of the ,climate of ,madeira4 ,by ,sir ,james ,clark4 ,london4 #ahda4 ,footnote #bf3 ,the fall of rain1 according to ,dr4 ,hoberdon's observations1 is1 on a seven years' average1 #cjfb inches per annum4 ,dr4 ,mittermayr1 from ,heidelberg1 states1 on a three years' average1 the rainy days to be #ie per year4 ,johnston1 in his ,physical ,atlas of ,natural ,phenomena1 states the fall of rain on an average to be #bihb inches1 and the number of rainy days #ajj per annum1 viz4 #dh in the winter1 #ag in the spring1 #d in the summer1 and #ca in the autumn4 ,in some respects the winter is warmer at ,madeira than the summer1 owing to the north-westerly winds and the regular sea-breezes of that season1 which keep the atmosphere continually at an even temperature2 and hence the island is the favourite resort of consumptive patients during the winter season4 ,england1 which seems to possess the very unenviable privilege of furnishing to the annual mortality in ,europe the most numerous contingent of phthisical patients1 provides this island likewise with the greatest number of this1 the most to be pitied of all classes of patients4 ,the climate of ,madeira will1 however1 be of little benefit in advanced and decided cases2 although it seems to have a curative effect on young people in the first stage of the malady1 as well as in cases where1 being hereditary1 its presence is merely apprehended4 ,the number of strangers who annually1 during the winter1 resort to ,madeira for the benefit of their health1 amounts to from #djj to #ejj1 and the money thereby circulated in the island reaches the sum of about #cj1jjj4 ,the number of ,english alone in the year #ahee was #bhe4 ,but in the winter of #ahef-eg1 the ,english invalids who came to ,madeira scarcely reached #ajj4 ,the reason of this was another calamity1 the cholera1 which suddenly made its appearance in ,funchal on the #dth of ,july1 #ahef4 ,until this epoch1 the island had been spared this devastating scourge of our time4 ,the epidemic is said to have been introduced by a detachment of ,portuguese troops1 which shortly before had arrived from ,lisbon1 where cholera was then raging4 ,the circumstances under which this epidemic appeared in ,madeira leave little doubt of the correctness of this supposition1 and seem to confirm the view of ,professor ,pettenkofer1#bg relative to the importation of the disease by ships1 and its propagation by human excrements1 a theory advanced by this learned ,german physician in his famous work1 with as much soundness as sagacity4 ,the first individuals attacked were four soldiers of the #ast battalion of infantry1 and the first who fell a victim to the epidemic was a boatman1 who had landed some of the soldiers from the steamer4 ,he was attacked on the #gth of ,july1 at #a ,p4,m41 and nine hours afterwards was a corpse4 ,a few weeks later the scourge had spread over the whole island1 raging with fatal severity1 in consequence of the poverty1 distress1 and helplessness of the inhabitants4 ,we cannot forbear mentioning a phenomenon observed at the time of the first appearance of the pestilence by ,major ,dom ,pedro de ,azevedo1 one of the most distinguished men in ,funchal4 ,according to the observations regularly made by him1 during two years1 with reference to the quantity of ozone#bh contained in the atmosphere1 he found that1 as long as the pestilence was raging1 it scarcely amounted to #b1 whilst1 under normal circumstances1 the quantity1 according to the ozonometer of ,schnbein1 is said to reach #f to #g4 ,footnote #bg3 ,dr4 ,pettenkofer's ,investigations and ,observations on the ,spread of ,cholera4 ,munich4 #ahee4 ,footnote #bh3 ,ozone1 or oxygen in an allotropic condition1 is found in more perceptible quantity in pure localities than in those where great quantities of putrescent substances are accumulated1 as the ozone disappears by oxidation4 ,observations on the quantity of ozone contained in the air during an epidemic are1 therefore1 of great interest1 because they may throw a light on the influences of the atmosphere in the propagation of certain diseases4 ,in the beginning of ,october the malady gradually began to decrease1 the last case which happened on the island occurring at ,funchal1 on the #afth ,december1 #ahef4 ,it appears1 from official reports1 that out of a population of #ajb1hcg souls1 #gjda fell victims to the epidemic2 other statements1 that seem not less reliable1 even raise the number of fatal cases to a much larger figure4 ,a variety of local circumstances tended to heighten the fearful violence of the epidemic3 the great distress among the people1 arising from the deficiency of the vintages during several years2 the potato disease1 which occurred in the summer of #ahef1 and deprived the population1 whilst suffering from other calamities1 of one of their most important means of sustenance2 and finally1 to bring misfortunes to a climax1 even that source of gain was dried up which the people derived from the temporary residence of numerous wealthy families4 ,terrified by the reports which were in circulation as to the ravages caused by the cholera at ,madeira1 hundreds altered their original plan of passing the winter there1 and even resident strangers1 horror-stricken1 left the island1 which had been so suddenly converted from a paradise into a burial-ground4 ,the loss arising from the latter cause is estimated at #bj1jjj1 an immense sum at a time when pestilence and famine were raging so fiercely4 ,the ,british ,government1 as well as ,english philanthropists in general1 deserve the highest praise for the liberality with which they promptly and generously hastened to the assistance of the sufferers4 ,soon as intelligence of the great distress arrived in ,london1 two steamers of war1 the ,salamander and ,hesper1 with provisions1 medicine1 clothing1 bedding1 and money1 were despatched to ,funchal1 where the former arrived on the #ahth and the latter on the #cast of ,october1 #ahef4 ,this assistance essentially contributed to the rapid extinction of the epidemic1 as it sufficed to relieve the more pressing wants4#bi ,considerable contributions arrived also from the ,united ,states2 and1 according to public statements1 the relief that came from foreign countries amounted to #hhie4 ,footnote #bi3 ,old chronicles report that ,madeira has been visited by a pestilential disease1 that raged within the years #aeba to #aece4 ,but the cholera was never in the island before the year #ahef4 ,the yellow fever is altogether unknown4 ,the commerce of the island was1 as a matter of course1 seriously affected by such a train of calamities4 ,the principal exports had hitherto consisted of wine1 cattle1 fruit1 and wicker-work2 the first and most important of these articles--wine--had1 as already stated1 all but entirely disappeared from the list for several years1 the small quantities still exported being merely the remnants of old stocks4 ,according to custom-house registers1 the entire value of the produce exported in #ahea amounted to #afd1ifj1 of which #if1iej were shipped in ,english1 #bf1ejj in ,american1 and #af1fej in ,portuguese vessels4 ,the exports of #ahee were only #ie1dgj1 and in #ahee1 when the wine export had entirely ceased1 the value did not exceed #bdjj6 ,the imports were of a more numerous and varied description2 calico1 cotton and woollen goods1 hardware1 spices and provisions from ,england2 timber1 salt meat1 and other articles from the ,united ,states2 grain from the ,mediterranean and the ,black ,sea2 and sugar1 coffee1 oil1 rice1 and other colonial produce from ,lisbon and the ,portuguese settlements4 ,the commerce is almost entirely in the hands of the ,english1#cj whose liberality during the cholera epidemic has much raised them in the estimation of the inhabitants4 ,footnote #cj3 ,three-fifths of the #ej1jjj tons annually imported are ,english manufactures4 ,the absence of a regular banking establishment is much felt by the trading community1 particularly in times of temporary distress4 ,singularly enough there are few ,portuguese coins to be met with1 and even these are not liked by the inhabitants4 ,the moneys chiefly in circulation are ,english and ,american gold and silver coins1 ,french five-franc pieces1 and ,spanish dollars4 ,the sailing vessels in the roads of ,funchal are mostly under ,english and ,american flags4 ,the steamers which keep up the intercourse between ,europe and the ,brazils call regularly at ,funchal for mails and passengers1#ca and a steam-packet arrives regularly every fortnight on its way from ,europe to ,south ,america4 ,footnote #ca3 ,an ,english coal dept has been established in ,funchal since #ahdh4 ,the trade carried on under ordinary circumstances is1 as we have seen1 by no means inconsiderable1 and by proper management might enable the people to extricate themselves from their present depressed position2 but though not exactly lazy1 they are entirely deficient in the energy requisite for effectively improving their condition4 ,whenever they have enough of yams and potatoes1 they no longer think of exerting themselves or of acquiring a more comfortable or independent mode of existence4 ,neither in ,ireland1 nor in the ,silesian mountains1 nor even amongst the ,indians in ,north or ,south ,america1 have we witnessed such a degree of poverty and wretchedness as we beheld among the labouring classes in the mountainous districts of this island4 ,on entering a village1 shoals of haggard-looking beggars covered with rags were seen1 whose features indicated their unhealthy way of living1 and an utter lack of the most common necessaries of life4 ,the calamities of the last five years have certainly contributed to this excess of misery1 and a traveller who visited ,madeira twenty years ago1 may have carried away with him quite a different impression of its inhabitants4 ,the race inhabiting the island1 notwithstanding some favourable exceptions1 is rather unprepossessing and decrepit1 owing to the elements of which it is composed4 ,the first settlers1 as already stated1 belonged by no means to the better classes of ,portugal1 but consisted of a motley assemblage of ruffians1 who came to the newly-discovered island merely in search of adventure4 ,the admixture which afterwards took place with the black race imported from ,africa1 materially contributed to deteriorate the people both physically and morally4 ,though there is not one single pure negro in the whole island1 yet the features of a considerable proportion of the inhabitants denote their ,african descent4 ,in the population of ,punta da ,sol1 a village on the west side of the island1 the negro type is said to be exhibited in its strongest character4 ,the dress of the native is extremely simple2 a pair of white trowsers1 a shirt1 and linen jacket1 constitute the entire toilette2 with a few rare exceptions we never saw shoes3 but even the poorest of the poor wears a curiously-shaped small cloth cap 7carapua7 of a blue colour1 with red lining1 terminating in an erect pointed tail1 six inches long4 ,this seems to be a remnant of a turbaned head-dress1 worn formerly by the inhabitants of the ,african coast1 with whom the first settlers1 allured by the slave-trade1 once carried on an active intercourse4 ,illustration3 ,,carapu,a1 ,,or ,,cap ,,worn ,,by ,,the ,,natives ,,of ,,madeira4 ,many of the inhabitants of ,funchal obtain their livelihood by acting as guides to strangers4 ,the roads being very steep1 and formed of pointed stones1 horses of an excellent breed are used in going even short distances2 however fast the visitors may gallop1 the guide follows the horses on foot1 to which the natives are habituated from their earliest years4 ,this practice is undoubtedly one of the principal causes of consumptive complaints1 which are more frequently met with here than might have been expected considering the climate1 though bad nourishment and unhealthy dwellings may have their part in causing the prevalence of the malady4 ,the common people are mostly lodged in small low cabins of wood or timber1 thatched with straw1 the only opening being the door1 through which air and light are admitted4 ,their sleeping-places are wooden benches1 covered with straw1 raised only one or two feet from a ground which1 during nine months of the year1 is damp4 ,it is scarcely necessary to state that the wealthier classes offer a more pleasing aspect4 ,they are extremely obliging1 kind1 and attentive towards strangers1 and evidently endeavour to impress the visitor with favourable ideas of themselves and the island4 ,to the hospitality of the ,austrian ,consul1 as well as to ,major ,p4 ,a4 de ,azevedo and ,don ,juan ,muniz1 so deservedly celebrated for his knowledge of the flora of ,madeira1 the members of the ,novara expedition are indebted for many a happy and delightful hour4 ,the population is perceptibly on the decrease4 ,the causes are emigration to the ,british ,west ,indies1 and devastation by the cholera4 ,the number of inhabitants in the two islands1 in #ahcf1 amounted to #aae1ddf2 in #ahed1 to #ajc1bif2 and in #ahee1 to only #ajb1ahc4 ,the emigrants during the last twenty-five years 7#ahce to #ahfj7 are said to have amounted to #dj1jjj1 many of whom depart secretly1 in order to avoid the heavy emigration tax4 ,numerous benevolent institutions indicate the charitable disposition of the inhabitants4 ,the hospital1 or ,santa ,casa de ,misericordia1 standing in a beautiful square1 planted with planes and magnolias1 can receive #ajd patients1 and is exceedingly well managed4 ,it appears1 however1 rather singular that the surgical are separated from the medical cases1 whilst no separation exists amongst the patients who may happen to be labouring under contagious diseases4 ,the most frequently recurring diseases are cutaneous1 a circumstance which need excite no surprise in a country where the natives pay so little attention to the cleanliness of their bodies1 and where ,government itself favours as it were this carelessness by levying a considerable tax upon the importation of soap6 ,dysentery prevails throughout the year2 intermittent fever and inflammatory diseases occur more rarely2 but apoplectic cases are at times very numerous4 ,the nominal amount of the funds of the hospital is estimated at #dj1jjj2 the annual income being about #ahjj sterling4 ,the hospital for lepers is fitted up for the reception of about forty patients1 most of whom come from places in which the black has least mixed with the white race4 ,the workhouse1 for #bcj paupers1 was founded in #ahdg by public subscription1 and has an annual income of from #cjjj to #djjj piastres4 ,the nunnery of ,st4 ,isabel1 for the reception of female orphans1 was erected as early as #agbf4 ,great care is taken of the education of the inmates1 who are not permitted to leave the establishment1 except in case of getting married or respectably employed4 ,foundlings1 of whom1 in one single year1 #hci were maintained by the commune of ,funchal1 are given out to nurse2 and there has been a most singular expedient adopted1 in order to prevent abuse as regards obtaining the board money1 which amounts to about one piastre a month1 for each4 ,a piece of tape is put round the infant's neck1 the two ends of which are fastened with a lead seal1 and stamped1 so that1 in the event of death1 it cannot be taken off and put on another child's neck4 ,the witnessing of the process of fastening and stamping this necklace is most unpleasant1 although no real pain is inflicted on the child4 ,in the year #ahee there existed in the entire island twelve elementary schools1 attended by about #bjj scholars1 and likewise forty-nine ,sunday schools1 having about #bdjj pupils4 ,funchal also possesses a college1 with six professors and #abj students1 an ecclesiastical seminary for twenty-four pupils1 and a medical school1 with four professors1 which1 however1 during the year of our visit1 had only seven students4 ,though the ,government is very rigid in exacting the attendance of the children at school1 yet only about a seventh part of the whole number living in the island really avail themselves of the benefit4 ,a hospital for the consumptive is now in course of erection1 at the expense of the ,empress dowager of the ,brazils1 as a memorial of her daughter1 who1 in #ahec1 died of this disease on the island4 ,there exist several public libraries and book societies at ,funchal2 and in several of the clubs a great many of the leading ,english1 ,french1 ,spanish1 ,portuguese1 and ,german journals1 are to be found4 ,four weekly papers1 in the ,portuguese language1 are published at ,funchal4 ,the first newspaper ever published there was the ,patriota ,funchalense1 the first number of which appeared on the #bnd of ,june1 #ahba4 ,illustration3 ,,cathedral ,,of ,,madeira4 ,the public buildings offer little to attract notice2 the churches are insignificant1 and even the cathedral1 a building in the ,basilica style1 is in no way remarkable otherwise than by the innumerable garlands and nosegays1 offerings of pious devotees1 which as it were transform its interior into a fragrant temple of flowers4 ,that which was once a ,jesuit monastery1 has been now converted into a barrack1 in which the whole garrison of the island1 amounting to #djj men1 are lodged4 ,the daily pay of these soldiers amounts to #bj reis1 or about one penny6 ,an ordinary dwelling-house has lately been converted into a town gaol1 in which the prisoners are very humanely treated4 ,passers-by may have an undisturbed talk with them through the lattice-work2 and once we even observed a man who had thrust his foot through the iron bars1 in order to have his measure taken by one of the inmates for a pair of shoes6 ,the charms of beautiful walks1 and a most enchanting neighbourhood1 enhance the pleasantness of the climate of ,funchal so much resorted to by invalids4 ,in the interior of the town1 not far from the sea-shore1 splendid avenues of magnificent planes1 large-flowered magnolias1 and massive oaks1 form delightful promenades1 and afford repose and shade on numerous seats under the dense foliage of their wide-spreading branches4 ,seated on a gently-ambling steed1 one may reach most pleasantly the summits of those lofty mountains1 which rise close to ,funchal1 where a balmy fragrance perfumes the air1 and the eye roams with delight in all directions over scenery of the most striking description4 ,one of the favourite points from which such a view may be obtained in all its beauty1 is the terrace in front of the church of ,nossa ,senhora de ,monte1 situated #aife feet above the level of the sea1 on a ridge of the ,arrebantao mountain1 reached in less than an hour by one or other of the existing conveyances2 these are either horses1 or hammocks and sedan-chairs1 or sledges1 covered with tasteful canopies1 and drawn by a couple of small oxen4 ,illustration3 ,,sleigh ,,party ,,in ,,madeira4 ,though a vehicle1 reminding one so strongly of a northern winter1 appears rather odd in a climate such as that of ,madeira1 yet its practicability and convenience is very soon perceived1 when comfortably sliding away over the smooth stones of ,funchal4 ,wheel carriages1 such as used in ,europe1 are unknown here4 ,but he who has bodily strength and health enough to be able to wander through the interior of the island1 will find spots which command landscapes by far more grand and sublime than that seen from ,nossa ,senhora de ,monte4 ,cape ,san ,lorenzo1 with its petrified fauna2--the awe-inspiring ,entroza pass1 that wonderful sculpture of nature which bears so powerful a witness to the corroding action of water2--the lovely and solitary cascade of ,rabacal2--the ,pic ,arrieiro1 with its craggy rocks1 offering to the geologist such a remarkable peep into the geognostical history of the island2--the numerous gigantic rocky skeletons of volcanic cones1 on which the geologist is able to make the most interesting studies and investigations1 just in the same manner as the anatomist on a corpse2--all these wonders of nature are calculated to awaken the reflection and excite the admiration of the beholder4 ,the most delightful event during our stay in the island was an excursion of several days1 made to the romantic localities of the northern coast4 ,a stately cavalcade of twenty-two horsemen set out1 early on a fine ,june morning1 from ,funchal to ,nossa ,senhora1 and from thence over the ,pic ,poizo1 through the glens of ,metade to ,st4 ,anna4 ,after a ride of two hours1 the ,casa de ,abrigo was reached1 a small house1 situated about #dejj feet above the level of the sea1 erected by the ,government some years ago for the shelter of travellers4 ,from this point the path runs through a hilly country covered with heath1 from which the majestic ,pico ,ruivo1 with the fantastic forms of its rugged volcanic walls bathed in gold by the rays of the rising sun1 presents a most imposing sight4 ,on the whole route only one small miserable village1 called ,fayal1 was passed1 consisting of a few straw thatched huts1 exhibiting a picture of poverty and wretchedness1 which can scarcely be paralleled in any part of the habitable globe4 ,illustration3 ,,village ,,of ,,fayal4 ,at last1 after a ride of eight hours1 we reached ,st4 ,anna1 an extensive village1 with a large church and some brick buildings prettily situated in flower-gardens1 the most stately of which was--the inn4 ,the good cheer and repose found here for a few hours of the night1 compensated in some degree for the fatigues of the past day1 and prepared us for those to be encountered on the morrow4 ,the frequent fogs prevalent in ,madeira during the month of ,june1 render it indispensable to start early in the morning1 if the traveller wishes to enjoy the beauties of the scenery4 ,at #b ,a4,m41 therefore1 our cavalcade set out1 followed by a host of boys and porters carrying provisions and instruments for observations4 ,nature was still buried in sleep1 the air quiet and motionless2 the full moon1 shedding her pallid light over sea and mountain1 feebly shadowed forth the outlines of the hedges and bushes of roses1 fuchsias1 and hortensias1 that lined the narrow path1 and brought out dimly in faint relief the ghost-like white figures which1 standing at the doors of their poor cabins1 looked inquisitively at the riders1 that were already so early on their way4 ,the path led up to the mountains in steep and numerous windings1 sometimes on soft ground through ravines1 sometimes on solid basalt1 or over the uneven surface of indurated lava4 ,and when at last1 emerging from deep glens1 steep precipices1 and rocky walls1 all yet buried in the shades of night1 the blue star-spangled sky burst upon us in all its beauty and grandeur1 the effect was almost overpowering4 ,a faint glimmer of light appeared on the distant horizon1 masses of vapour moved over the ocean1 and rising mists gathering into clouds1 undulated like the surface of an agitated sea4 ,it was only along the ridges of mountains and through the ravines1 that one might glance between mist and land down to the calm boundless expanse of water at our feet4 ,at #d o'clock a halt was made near a solitary hut1 called ,choupana1 at a height of #ddjj feet1 when the horsemen dismounted1 and left their horses behind1 preferring to reach on foot the termination of their journey4 ,illustration3 ,,el ,,homem ,,em ,p4 ,we had just climbed up some steep basalt rock and reached an open spot1 when the first rays of the sun tinged the eastern sky4 ,beaming in all his majesty on the sharply-defined clouds that hovered beneath1 they sparkled like so many ice-capped peaks of ,alpine glaciers2 and when the great luminary ascended higher1 distributing mingled light and shade in such gradations of tint as only ,nature's cunning hand can mingle1 the chaotic masses of vapour assumed the appearance of gigantic islands and lofty towering mountains1 whilst a chorus of feathered songsters rung cheerfully out from the depths of the wooded valleys4 ,the path wound along a precipitous declivity1 grown over with tangled ,til-trees1 past a group of basaltic columns1 which rose isolated to a height of #dj feet above the beautiful grassy carpet that clothes the ground1 and in the crevices of which an old laurel1 the last of its genus at this height1 had taken root4 ,the natives call this singularly-shaped group ,homem em p1 or the man standing erect4 ,arrived at an open space of meadow ground1 the ,barreiro1 or ,encumiada ,caixa1 a gigantic rocky ridge1 suddenly rises to a prodigious height1 from a frightful abyss of almost fathomless depth4 ,we now hastened across a plain covered with lava1 to the rough basaltic summit of the ,encumiada ,alta4 ,safe on an eminence#cb above yawning gulfs1 beneath a deep blue sky1 in the brilliancy of a lovely morning sun1 we abandoned ourselves to the thrilling impressions of the magnificent picture which nature here brought forth of earth1 rock1 and manifold vegetation4 ,towards the south an immense mountain ridge1 with serried peaks 7called ,torres and ,torinhas71 rises to a height of #fjjj feet1 declining almost imperceptibly on the left hand1 whilst on the right it descends abruptly in terraces1 with perpendicular walls of rocks #ajjj feet in height1 connected by an inaccessible ridge with the imposing1 stupendous1 cupola-shaped summit of the ,pico ,ruivo4 ,all this is disclosed to the eye within a radius of little more than two miles4 ,deep clefts and ravines run from the rocky crevices1 and unite in a gloomy and profound abyss of #cjjj feet1 which forms the mouth of the ravine of ,ribeiro ,secco4 ,similiar chasms open to the right and to the left1 and when they are too distant to be distinguished by the eye1 dark shadows rising on the rocky walls indicate the deep crater-like basin of the ,curral1 and the gulfs of the ,metade river1 and the ,ribeiro ,frio4 ,it would seem as if the whole island has1 in a series of fearful convulsions1 burst from a single central point in all directions2 as if entire mountains had sunk into the deep1 or had1 by the action of torrents permeating their crevices1 been converted into rubble1 and carried as sand and fragments into the ocean4 ,footnote #cb3 #ehhc feet1 according to the geologist's barometrical measurements4 ,the summits of the ,torres and ,torrinhas are nothing but barren naked rocks1--not a blade of grass1 not a shrub1 not a trace of vegetation is to be seen4 ,at the highest points1 strata nearly horizontal extend in remarkably regular layers1 chiefly distinguished by the most manifold variety of colours and tints4#cc ,a dark grey schistus of volcanic ashes alternates with strongly-marked red1 yellow1 and violet layers of tufa1 dross1 and scori1 together with brown and grey conglomerates4 ,just as red predominates on the upper part of these ,torres1 green prevails on the lower4 ,from the spot where the springs first issue out of the crevices of the basalt1 everything seems covered with a dense green carpet4 ,these are the celebrated clefts of ,madeira1 in which1 even on rocks of #ajjj feet high1 not an inch is to be discovered bare2 they afford a rich harvest to the botanist1 whilst they fill the spectator with delight and admiration4 ,footnote #cc3 ,the celebrated ,american geologist1 ,mr4 ,dana1 mentions that these wild contorted masses of mountain reminded him of the crater-walls of the ,kilauea at the ,sandwich ,islands4 ,illustration3 ,,erica ,,trees4 ,generally speaking1 the scenery of ,madeira does not owe its character to the grandeur or magnitude of its trees2 the peculiar charm of the landscape arises more from grasses1 ferns1 shrubs1 and different kinds of moss1 all of which grow so rank and luxuriant1 that the rocks1 chasms1 and abysses overgrown with them1 appear like so many swelling cushions1 or as if laid with soft velvet carpets in all directions4 ,the different shades of green indicate the characteristics of successive zones of vegetation4 ,through the lower parts of the valleys run the beds of those mountain waters which1 though nearly dried up in the summer1 swell in the winter into torrents4 ,along these are scattered the straw-thatched huts of the natives1 surrounded by vineyards and fields planted with rye1 barley1 potatoes1 yams1 and in the lower parts with single bananas4 ,these cultivated lands rise to a height of #bjjj feet1 and in many places even to #cjjj4 ,wherever on the steep declivities there is the smallest shelf to be found1 even if only a square yard in size1 it is turned to account4 ,next to this region1 in ascending1 is that of the brush and laurel woods4 ,vaccinias 7blackberries71 and different kinds of heath1 often attaining a growth of five or six feet1 occupy the whole of the ground1 and in the month of ,june1 when the broom is in full flower1 a bright golden-coloured belt girts ,madeira1 at a height of from #cjjj to #djjj feet4 ,we beheld this golden girdle in its richest splendour1 set off by the dark masses of evergreens in the clefts4 ,higher up is the true region of the ,erica arborea1 which1 with its light-green and paille tint1 contrasted with the deeper colour of the laurel1 represents the underwood of our secondary mountain ranges4 ,the ,erica arborea attains here the height of a large tree1 and1 on some spots1 #cj to #dj feet of its gnarled stems stretch along the ground4 ,thus it may be traced1 in company with other heaths1 to the summit of the ,pico ,ruivo4 ,after having made some physical observations1 and enjoyed a most delightful prospect1 we re-packed our instruments1 filled our boxes and pouches with plants and geological specimens1 and prepared for our departure4 ,the guides1 despite their heavy burdens1 marched steadily on1 humming in plaintive cadence their native songs4 ,we soon reached our horses1 and1 penetrating through layers of clouds1 rapidly descended the steep mountain sides to ,st4 ,anna4 ,a walk on the same evening towards ,porto ,santo ,jorge was not less charming than instructive1 especially as we gazed on those hardened streams of lava1 so interesting as regards the geological history of the island1 out of the numerous crevices of which grew luxuriant magnificent rosettes of ,sempervivum4 ,fuchsias and heliotropes were gathered from the bushes1 and each took a share1 now with the geological hammer1 now with the botanical box1 or the butterfly-catcher1 in the harvest of objects of natural history4 ,we passed in this neighbourhood several houses delightfully situated1 surrounded by hedgerows of luxuriant shrubs and splendid native flowers4 ,in the fine garden of the inn1 amidst myrtles1 bignonias1 euphorbias1 and fuchsias1 was a handsome ,camellia japonica1 which had attained the imposing height of #ae feet1 with a diameter of #i inches1 the top spreading fan-like in numberless branches4 ,the following morning we returned to ,funchal1 accompanied by a troop of ragged and diseased natives1 pertinaciously appealing to our charity4 ,plenteous alms were given them1 for where ,nature is so prodigal of her gifts1 the human mind becomes more sensitive and liberal4 ,at noon1 we again reached the beautiful terrace of ,nossa ,senhora de ,monte1 and here the excursion was wound up by a diversion of quite a peculiar character2 for1 instead of returning to ,funchal on horseback1 we slid down a mountain #aejj feet high1 right into the town1 on small double-seated wooden sledges1 thus travelling down what is probably the grandest natural ,montagne ,russe in the world4 ,a train of more than a dozen sledges started at the same time4 ,these singular vehicles are guided on either side with admirable adroitness by two natives1 who avoid slipping by moistening their shoes2 and1 notwithstanding the velocity of these conveyances1 even slight accidents are unheard of4 ,sledge parties of this kind1 being cheap1 constitute the most favourite amusement of the people of ,funchal4 ,the whole company met together once more at a convivial dinner in the hotel1 where1 agreeably to the custom of the country1 not only the room and table1 but even every single dish served up1 was adorned with garlands of fragrant flowers4 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,,ii4--,,track ,,from ,,madeira ,,to ,,rio ,,di ,,janeiro4 ,on the #agth ,june we again weighed anchor4 ,the intention had originally been to steer direct for ,rio de ,janeiro2 but as we learned1 two days before our departure1 that the yellow fever1 though on the decrease1 had not yet entirely ceased1 we were in no hurry to arrive at the capital of ,brazil1 and therefore determined to employ the time so gained1 in investigating the nature of the winds and currents prevalent in these latitudes4 ,for though the proper course of ships between ,england and ,north ,america has been admirably laid down1 for nearly every month of the year1 by the long-continued ingenious labours of ,commander ,maury1 of the ,washington ,observatory1 yet there still exists great difficulty in steering sailing vessels from ,gibraltar or ,madeira to ,south ,america1 by the directions hitherto existing2 the more so1 as the seafarer in these latitudes1 close to the limits of the north-east trade-wind1 generally falls in with variable breezes and frequent calms1 caused partly by the ,african coast and partly by the cluster of isles from the ,azores to the ,cape ,verde ,islands1 and which are of still more frequent occurrence in the summer of the northern hemisphere4 ,we kept ,madeira1 or rather the clouds which1 during the summer1 gather daily round the mountains1 a long time in view2 and on the #aith1 at a distance of #abj miles from the island1 some persons on board thought they could still distinguish them4 ,we steered at first in a south-westerly direction1 with light breezes and fine weather4 ,advancing1 however1 towards the limits of the trade-winds1 showers became frequent1 and the wind chopped about much oftener2 a more southerly course was therefore taken1 in order to come as soon as possible under the influence of the north-easterly trade-winds4 ,there was now an opportunity of directing attention to the formation of the clouds1 which1 in these latitudes1 assume at times very curious appearances4 ,the cirri disappeared by degrees1 and the cumuli towered up on the horizon in colossal masses4 ,these latter are formed under the influence of the sun1 when most powerful1 and are therefore seen chiefly during the afternoon4 ,as soon as they rise they vanish by absorption1 just as fast as they are formed by evaporation from the sea4 ,rain very rarely proceeds from them4 ,the alternation of their shades1 tints1 and colours1 is beautiful in the extreme1 particularly at sunset1 when their outlines1 as they stand out in bold relief on the clear blue sky1 vary in hue from the deepest grey to the most brilliant golden yellow4 ,the nearer the tropics are approached the more does ocean teem with animated orgasms4 ,a net cast into it was immediately filled with an immense number of little living creatures4 ,pretty-looking blue cockles1 sea-nettles1 and various other inhabitants of the deep1 all of the most minute size1 lay rolled up in one lump with small sea-weeds of beautiful forms and tints1 from which those tiny things endeavoured1 with great exertion1 to extricate themselves4 ,the microscope discloses to the observer an entirely new world in the economy of nature1 as displayed in the animal life of the surface of the sea4 ,the entire oceanic creation1 from the smallest infusoria to the huge whale1 are all specially adapted to the element in which they exist1 and organized to contribute to the preservation1 as well as the further development1 of the whole globe4 ,this is beautifully illustrated by the operations of the zoophytes2 the water of rivers dissolves the chalky substances of the land and carries them down to the ocean1--immense numbers of these form1 for themselves1 habitations from this matter2--by successive accumulation1 produced through the action or the dead bodies of these creatures1 the ground is raised gradually into the reefs1 banks1 and rocks1 so dangerous to navigation2 or into islands inhabited by man1 who1 in the development of his moral and physical powers1 performs his mission in his high position1 just as definitely as the imperceptible animalcu do in their narrow sphere4 ,exceedingly beautiful in the tropic seas are those small physali1 a species of ,acaleph1 known to sailors as ,portuguese men-of-war4 ,they sail along by means of their large air-bags1 exposed to the wind1 whilst their numerous long1 dark-blue tentacles1 like fibres or roots1 reach deep into the water1 extending or contracting in order to secure their food4 ,the fringes of these air-bags are of a violet colour1 and resemble1 when in sunshine1 a splendid flower1 floating about the sea in all directions4 ,approaching the zone of the trade-winds1 the aspect of the sea is animated by flying-fish4 ,it has been long a matter of doubt whether this fish really moves through the air by flying1 or whether1 being pursued by enemies1 it merely darts from fear out of the water1 and sustains itself in the air by means of its long pectoral fins1 though the long distances it moves are out of all proportion to its size and probable muscular power4 ,this doubt seems to have originated with those who never have had an opportunity of personally observing flying-fish2 or who have merely seen these creatures in the ,mediterranean1 where they are so small as to render it rather difficult to decide in what the movement really consists4 ,but in the tropics all doubt vanishes1 for the fish here attains a length of from #f to #h inches1 and its pectoral fins are so much developed that they may perfectly well be used as wings4 ,by closely observing them1 it is seen that these fins1 or wings1 have an oscillating or vibratory motion1 like that of the grasshopper1 by which they assist the oblique spring from the water1 produced by muscular power2 they move at a height of from two to three feet above the surface of the sea1 to a distance of from #ej to #ajj yards1 and at the same time change the direction of their flight in exactly the same way as grasshoppers4 ,it seems1 however1 to be neither pleasure nor want of food that drives these creatures from their own element4 ,they have numerous enemies1 of which the principal is the bonita 7,scomber ,palamy72 whenever flying-fish were seen the bonitas likewise made their appearance2 we often saw the latter darting out of the water and snapping at a flying-fish1 when1 if they did not succeed1 they were perceived hastening under water in the same direction that their prey was taking4 ,but the flying-fish is quite aware of the movement of the enemy1 and1 therefore1 sometimes turns back abruptly1 evidently with a view of dodging his pursuer4 ,the advantage of the wings is1 however1 more apparent than real1 for whilst they escape by these means from the bonitas1 dorados1 and dolphins1 they fall a sacrifice to the seagulls and man-of-war birds 7,tachypetes aquilus71 which reach them like arrows shot from a bow1 before they are able to conceal themselves again in the ocean4 ,those which were seen on the north of the equator1 were invariably of the smaller kind 7,exoctus volitans72 whilst in the south1 also1 the larger species 7,exoctus exulans7 made their appearance4 ,they often drop during the night on the decks of small vessels with low bows1 but on the ,novara1 which rose about #bj feet over the surface of the water1 this was not possible2 however1 some fell upon the chains1 which were caught and preserved in alcohol by the zoologists4 ,on the #bgth ,june1 at midday1 we had arrived in #bg #b' ,n4 ,lat41 and #bd #g' ,w4 ,long41 and lay in a perfect calm1 the mirror-like aspect of the sea allowing us to take a deep-sea sounding with what is called ,brooke's apparatus4 ,this consists of a tube1 which runs through a thirty-pound shot1 fastened to a thin line4 ,as the shot1 however1 cannot easily be drawn up after the sounding1 there is an ingenious mechanism1 by means of which1 on touching the ground1 it is detached from the tube1 which may then be drawn up1 the shot remaining in the sea4 ,the tube has a funnel-shaped opening at its lower extremity1 by which a portion of the ground may likewise be brought up for scientific examination4 ,in the afternoon a boat provided with everything requisite for the sounding1 was launched1 and the operation began4 ,unfortunately there were only #djej fathoms of line1 as we did not find at ,gibraltar the quality required for the purpose4 ,the whole stock ran entirely out without reaching ground2 we could therefore do nothing more than make the attempt to heave the tube without the shot4 ,in this1 however1 we succeeded only in so far as regarded the first #bjjj fathoms2 then the line broke1 and the remainder was lost4 ,one of the causes of this accident was the sudden rise of the trade-wind which increased so much as to engross nearly our entire attention4 ,to convey an idea of the time a ball of this kind takes to descend through the different strata of water1 which increases in density in proportion to the depth attained1 we annex the length of the different periods required in paying out the line during the experiment3-- ,minutes4 ,seconds4 ,the first #ajjj fathoms occupied #ai #h ,from #ajjj to #bjjj #ba #c #bjjj to #cjjj #dj #f #cjjj to #djjj #gf #f #djjj to #djej #c #e ,total time in running out the entire length ,hours #b #ci #bh ,as the winding up of the tube requires at least the same period1 it may easily be conceived how great is the expenditure of time necessary for such an experiment1 and on what chances the success of the whole operation depends4 ,though this trial was partially unsuccessful1 yet so much is certain1 that at this point1 #bd1cjj feet of line were run off without reaching the ground4 ,there is always1 however1 to be taken into consideration the under-current1 which draws the line out of the perpendicular1 and renders the result of the operation rather doubtful4 ,we now sailed with a fresh and steady trade-wind towards the thirtieth degree of ,w4 ,long41 and thence along that meridian to the southward4 ,in the night1 between the #bith to the #cjth1 we crossed the parallel of the sun's declination1 upon which the direction of our shadows1 already for several days scarcely perceptible1 was of course changed from north to south4 ,we soon crossed the belt of the north-eastern trade-wind1 as we made daily from #ahj to #bjj miles4 ,on the #crd of ,july the wind became very unsteady1 and on the #eth1 in #h #cj' ,n4 ,lat4 and #bi #cj' ,w4 ,long41 it entirely left us4 ,the sky often became dark and threatening2 indeed1 its aspect changed at times with surprising rapidity1 without any particular disturbance in the direction or strength of the wind2 nor had we to complain of as much rain as might have been expected in these regions4 ,the calms in the so-called belt of calms were fortunately not of long duration1 for in #f #dc' ,n41 and #bh #di' ,w41 a fresh south-east wind sprang up4 ,when we came within the influence of the south-east trade-wind1 we endeavoured to approach the coast of ,south ,america1 for the purpose of observing the currents in that latitude1 this being one of the investigations suggested by the letter of instructions drawn up by ,alexander v4 ,humboldt4 ,the great oceanic stream1 which1 on leaving the western coast of ,africa takes a westerly direction1 is divided by the projecting ,american ,continent into two branches1 of which the stronger turns ,n4,w4 towards the ,caribean ,sea1 while the weaker moves south-west along the coast of ,brazil4 ,we had already felt its influence whilst in the zone of calms1 and it became still more perceptible the more the equator was approached4 ,the continuance of the south-easterly trade forced us to cross the ,line at a more westerly point than usual4 ,this1 however1 causes no disadvantage to a good sailing ship2 nay1 ,commander ,maury has proved indisputably that ships make extremely short passages1 which reach the ,equator so far to the west that they run a risk of hugging the coast too closely4 ,those on the other hand1 which1 from over-anxiety to avoid the current1 keep too far to the east1 lose much time1 being compelled to pass weeks in the zone of calms1 which increases in breadth towards the east1 whereas the others come very little in contact with it1 and avail themselves of the changes of wind near the shore1 to double the ,cape of ,st4 ,roque on the ,american coast1 so much dreaded by the former4 ,we cannot here forbear expressing our high admiration of the great merits of ,mr4 ,maury1 whose classical work on the physical geography of the sea1 as well as his inestimable wind and current charts1 deserve the especial attention of all who navigate these seas4 ,the nearer we approached the ,line1 the more striking became the aspect of the southern constellations4 ,the light of the northern polar star grew fainter and fainter1 its altitude diminished1 and it at length entirely disappeared4 ,but1 on the other hand1 the ,southern ,cross1 the ,magellan clouds1 the ship ,argo on the coal-bags1 or starless1 dark spots of the southern hemisphere1 became more elevated in proportion as the northern sky moved away1 and for a moment we felt some difficulty in recognizing our old acquaintances of the northern hemisphere in their relation to the new stars4 ,on the #aeth1 at #c ,a4,m41 we crossed the ,line in #cc #ej' ,w4,l4 ,this event1 which with all sailors forms a marked epoch in their seafaring life1 had in this case the additional feature of being actually the first occasion of an ,austrian man-of-war entering the southern hemisphere1 and our crew1 who had long before enjoyed1 in anticipation1 the merriment to which it would give occasion1 had commenced the ceremony the preceding evening4 ,neptune1 accompanied by an appropriate retinue of mermaids1 tritons1 and nereids1 appeared at sunset1 to announce with the utmost gravity to the ,commodore1 in a set speech1 the astounding news that the vessel was entering his dominions1 demonstrating the fact mathematically by an immense sextant1 a chart1 and pair of compasses a yard long1 all manufactured by the ship's carpenter1 and claiming his right to see the act of shaving and baptizing properly performed on all those who for the first time came into his kingdom4 ,amidst streams of water from the masts and fire-engines he made his exit down the rope ladder in a blaze of blue fire1 followed by an ignited tar-barrel1 which floated along like a globe of fire on the mirror-like surface of the sea4 ,the real farce1 however1 took place the next afternoon1 when ,neptune re-appeared1 accompanied this time by his good lady and a hopeful youth1 all decked out in real sea-god-like attire1 in a car drawn by six tritons1 still accompanied by his farcical retinue blowing a flourish on their bugles1 when1 after a second set speech to the ,commodore1 the great ruler of the waves declared that the ceremony was now to begin4 ,every sailor was obliged1 whether he would or no1 to undergo a lathering with a nasty mixture of tar and grease1 and submit to be scraped by an immense tin razor2 which operation being performed1 the unfortunate sufferer was thrown into a sail suspended by its four corners1 and there deluged from head to foot from pails1 pumps1 hose1 pots1 dishes1 and everything else that would hold water4 ,the officers and other gentlemen escaped the ordeal by a contribution in money or wine towards the festivities4 ,when the greater part of the sailors had undergone this process1 and the scene1 amidst formidable gushes of water1 rioting1 uproar1 and excitement1 had reached its highest point1 behold6 a voice thundered from the quarter-deck the words two o'clock1 and everything resumed its wonted aspect4 ,though the ,line had been crossed at a more westerly point than usual1 we were able1 in the night from the #ahth to the #aith of ,july1 to pass easterly between the rocks ,las ,roccas and the island of ,fernando da ,noronha4#cd ,on the #bjth ,july we were carried again by unfavourable winds to a distance of #ajj miles from the ,brazilian coast1 where we parted from our faithful companion1 the ,caroline4 ,she sailed for ,pernambuco1 whilst we kept out to sea in order to continue the observations on the westerly currents1 and be able freely to double ,cape ,st4 ,augustin4 ,bad weather1 showers1 and heavy swells prevented complete success in our task2 it was1 however1 ascertained that the current close to the land is not so strong as at some distance from it1 and that the extreme point of divergence is1 at this particular season of the year1 somewhat east of the south point of ,fernando de ,noronha4 ,in the angle formed by the direction of the two currents between the point of division and the land1 partial currents 7according to circumstances and the strength of the wind71 run towards one or the other side1 of which the stronger tends towards the north-west4 ,footnote #cd3 ,this island1 situated #cjj miles from ,pernambuco1 which supplies it with provisions1 is at present used by the ,brazilian ,government as a penal settlement4 ,it is extremely beautiful and fertile1 but very little cultivated1 and admirably suited for a coal dept1 and a place for ships obtaining stores1 particularly when epidemics are prevalent in ,rio de ,janeiro4 ,on the #bcrd ,july the weather cleared up2 we approached the coast and came in sight of ,cape ,st4 ,augustin1 the first land descried since leaving ,madeira4 ,on the #ast of ,august a rock was announced ahead2 as nothing of the kind was indicated in the charts1 we were curious to know what this could be4 ,a boat was manned1 and we were soon made aware1 by our olfactory organs1 of the real nature of the object1 which turned out to be the carcase of a dead whale in a state of putrefaction1 over which a number of birds were hovering1 whilst a troop of sharks feasted on the putrid mass1 boring themselves into the body4 ,this incident shows how many rocks marked in charts as doubtful may owe their origin to similar circumstances2 for1 had we not been convinced of the real nature of the object1 we should have believed this carcase to be a rock1 and thus augmented the number of doubtfuls and interrogations in the charts of the ,atlantic4 ,on the #crd ,august we made ,cape ,frio1 and after a rough and stormy night reached at last1 on the morning of the #eth1 the numerous small islands situated in front of the harbour of ,rio4 ,the ,sugar ,loaf1 that remarkable black basaltic rock at its entrance1 stood grandly forth1 as we ran in4 ,unfortunately the gloomy state of the atmosphere prevented the enjoyment of the exquisite beauty of this so often described charming bay4 ,here we found an ,english1 a ,french1 and an ,american frigate1 as also a dirty old ,brazilian sloop of war4 ,besides these ships of war1 a ,spanish frigate and galliot lay in the mercantile dock for repair2 they had shortly before their arrival lost their masts in a pampero1#ce which1 however1 had borne all the characteristic marks of a cyclone4#cf ,the occurrence of tornadoes in the ,south ,atlantic has been so often and so decidedly denied1 that the mariner does not readily believe the violent storms of those latitudes to be hurricanes4 ,this ,spanish frigate had accordingly sailed heedlessly into the storm1 and1 with only such precautions taken as referred to mast and sail1 had without further concern proceeded on her course4 ,she thus had got into the very heart of the cyclone1 and escaped entire destruction only by a fortunate chance4 ,now1 had her commander considered this storm to have been a real hurricane he would have undoubtedly steered a different course1 and probably in that case would have reached the harbour in safety4 ,but the notion of the non-existence of hurricanes in these waters is so pertinaciously maintained that it was no wonder the careful and able ,spanish commander had also been misled4 ,our own opinion is1 that any storm in the ocean may assume a revolving motion1 and it is therefore highly advisable always to bear in mind the well-founded theory of cyclones1 in order to act upon it1 as circumstances may require4 ,were this always done1 how many valuable lives and property might be saved from destruction6 ,footnote #ce3 ,a squall of wind of the ,south ,american ,pampas4 ,footnote #cf3 ,the following succinct statement of the characteristics and general laws of cyclones will be found useful by way of reference3-- #a4 ,it has been fully ascertained that in both hemispheres the air in the cyclone rotates in a direction contrary to that of the sun4 ,thus1 in the ,n4 hemisphere1 the course of the sun being from ,e4 to ,s41 ,w41 and ,n41 the course of the hurricane is from ,n4 by ,w41 ,s41 and ,e42 and in the ,s4 hemisphere1 the sun's course being from ,e4 by ,n41 ,w41 and ,s41 the hurricane runs from ,n4 by ,e41 ,s41 and ,w4 #b4 ,they originate in the space between the equator and the tropics1 near the equatorial limit of the trade winds4 #c4 ,there is no instance on record of a hurricane having been encountered on the equator1 nor of any one having crossed the ,line1 although two have been known to be raging at the same time in the same meridian1 but on opposite sides of the equator1 and only #aj to #ab apart6 #d4 ,their movement1 which is always oblique from the equator to the poles1 is usually from ,e4 to ,w4 at first1 and towards the end ,w4 to ,e41 which is but a development of the gyratory motion that forms their most essential characteristic4 #e4 ,the motion of translation varies from so low as #i miles an hour to #dc miles an hour4 ,there is no precise estimate of the velocity of the gyratory motion4 #f4 ,they are liable to dilate and contract in area1 the contraction always implying a great accession of violence4 7,see post1 p4 #ahc47 ,illustration3 ,,cape ,,frio4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,quay ,,at ,,rio4 ,v4 ,rio de ,janeiro4 ,brazil the land of contrasts4--,appearance of the city of ,rio and its environs4--,excursion to the ,peak of ,corcovado1 and the ,tejuca ,waterfalls4--,germans in ,rio4--,brazilian literary men4-- ,assac 7,hura ,brasiliensis74--,snake-bite as an antidote against leprosy4--,public ,institutions4--,negroes of the ,mozambique coast4--,the ,house of ,misericordia4--,lunatic ,asylum4--,botanical ,garden4--,public instruction4-- ,historico-,geographical institution4--,palstra ,scientifica4-- ,military ,academy4--,library4--,conservatory of ,music4--,sanitary ,police4--,yellow ,fever and ,cholera4--,water ,party on the bay4-- ,chamber of ,deputies4--,petropolis4--,condition of the ,slave population4--,prospects of ,german emigration4--,suitability of ,brazil as a market for ,german commerce4--,natural products1 and exchange of manufactures4--,audience of the ,emperor and ,empress4--,extravagant waste of powder for salvoes4--,songs of the sailors4--,departure from ,rio4--,retrospect4--,south-east ,trades4--,cape ,pigeons4--,albatrosses4--,cape ,tormentoso4--,a ,storm at the ,cape4--,various ,methods of measuring the height of waves4--,arrival in ,simon's ,bay4 ,brazil--situated on the ocean-highway to the ,south ,seas and the shores of ,india1 endowed by nature1 over the greater portion of her territory1 with a salubrious climate1 and a soil of tropical fertility1 very nearly as large as ,europe1 and ten times the size of ,france1 and yet containing not above #h1jjj1jjj souls--has1 far beyond all other ,states of ,south ,america1 concentrated on herself1 during more than half a century1 the interest of the naturalist1 as well as of the political economist--of the merchant as well as of the emigrant4 ,indeed1 we may say that there are few countries1 beyond the limits of ,europe1 which in certain parts have already been more thoroughly explored than the ,brazilian ,empire1 while at the same time it can boast the possession of a rich and valuable stock of literature1 treating of its history1 since its discovery by the ,portuguese ,admiral1 ,pedro ,alvarez ,cabral1 on the #bbnd of ,april1 #aejj1 down to the present time4 ,after so brief a sojourn as ours1 we can hardly offer more to the reader than a short sketch of our own few experiences1 and some remarks regarding the alterations which took place in the appearance of the city and in its social and political condition1 since the period when ,martius and ,spix1 ,rugendas1 ,prince ,neuwied1 ,helmreichen1 ,natterer1 ,pohl1 d',orbigny1 ,wilkes1 ,castelnau1 ,burmeister1 and others visited ,brazil1 and so accurately delineated it both by pen and pencil4#cg ,footnote #cg3 ,before we left ,europe1 the wish was repeatedly expressed to us that1 during our stay in ,rio1 more accurate information should be obtained as to the fate of numerous scientific works and collections1 by several ,german naturalists who died in ,brazil in recent times1 such as ,frederick ,sello1 ,dr4 ,mller 7a companion of ,castelnau71 ,dr4 ,engler1 and others4 ,unfortunately1 we can only give the little consolatory intelligence that1 with the exception of the scientific memoranda left behind by ,dr4 ,engler1 chiefly relating to ,it in the province of ,st4 ,paul1 there was nothing further to be hoped for4 ,the collections have all been dispersed through want of care1 and the manuscripts nearly all destroyed through ignorance of their value4 ,the magnificent scenery of the ,bay of ,rio de ,janeiro still continues to possess the same absorbing interest for the new comer1 wherever it has not suffered by the expansion of the rapidly-increasing city1 or the axe of the emigrant settler2 it is but little one can add to or alter in the picturesque description which travellers1 alive to its natural beauties1 had already given1 half a century ago1 of the wonderful haven of the ,brazilian metropolis6 ,very different1 however1 is the impression1 when the stranger1 on disembarking1 sets foot on the new world1 and has to make his way through narrow1 steep1 filthy streets1 greeted by yelling crowds of blacks and whites1 poor negro slaves1 and wealthy planters1 into the interior of this bustling port4 ,an entirely altered state of affairs has sprung up since the separation of ,brazil from ,portugal1 and he who has not seen ,rio within the last ten years would hardly recognize the capital of the ,brazilian empire4 ,along with the most conspicuous deficiencies1 in numerous particulars1 one finds such institutions as are not to be met with1 in a similarly flourishing condition1 in any other ,state of ,south ,america1 or among the republics of the ,isthmus4 ,but ,brazil is emphatically ,the ,land of ,contrasts4 ,when the traveller1 stepping on shore from the anchorage for ships of war1 7which is a little to the south of that for merchant vessels71 has forced his way through the swarms of human beings at the landing stage1 and in front of the hotel ,pharoux1 he finds himself on the ,largo do ,pao1 or ,palace ,square4 ,here on his left rises the singular-looking ,imperial ,residence1 and on his right1 close to the shore1 the ,market ,hall4 ,a dense bustling crowd throngs the streets1 while numerous vehicles1 some drawn by horses1 others by mules1 as also omnibuses of all colours and dimensions1 and crammed within and without1 dash swiftly about1 emulating the din and confusion of ,european capitals4 ,turning now to the right1 into the ,rua ,direita1 and thence a little further into the ,rua do ,ouvidor1 the two most elegant but none the less most-neglected streets of ,rio1 there dazzles the eye1 in the splendid1 richly-decorated shops and arcades1 the same profuse luxury as in ,regent ,street1 or on the ,boulevards4 ,but how disagreeable the contrast with those cities1 presented by the pools of stagnant water1 which occur even in the most-frequented streets6 ,the city proper presents the figure of a square of about one mile and three quarters each way1 between the sea beach and the ,campo da ,santa ,anna1 and is divided with tolerable regularity by narrow streets built at right angles to each other4 ,except the most important public buildings1 such as the ,national ,museum1 the ,museum of ,fine ,arts1 the ,military ,academy1 the ,naval ,arsenal1 the ,custom ,house1 the ,market ,hall1 the ,imperial ,palace1 the ,chamber of ,deputies1 and several of the churches1 only shops and mercantile counting-houses are to be met with4 ,from the city stretch the suburbs like long tentacles in every direction1 on one side along the beach as far as ,st4 ,christoph1 the winter palace of the emperor1 and1 in the opposite direction1 as far as the charming ,cove of ,botafogo1 while backwards they extend to the valleys leading to the ,corcovado1 to the suburbs of ,larangeiras1 ,catumb ,grande1 and in the direction of the ,tejuca mountains1 as far as ,engenho ,velho1 and ,andarah4 ,elegant little villas1 frequently built in the strangest and most bizarre style of architecture1 alternate in these suburbs with ordinary dwelling-houses1 all having most beautifully laid-out gardens4 ,the merchant1 the manufacturer1 in fact every individual in easy circumstances1 remain in the city only long enough to transact daily business4 ,each has his residence in the suburbs1 where his family lives1 to whose quiet circle he returns every evening4 ,among these suburbs1 those of ,caminho ,novo and ,catete1 along the road leading to the charming cove of ,botafogo1 are more specially the diplomatic quarter1 and the residence of the moneyed aristocracy of the capital4 ,amid so much that calls for censure in ,rio ,janeiro1 and of which the sthetic perceptions of the visitor will apprize him in the course of a stroll in any part of the city1 there are two improvements which deserve grateful acknowledgment4 ,the first of these consists in the lighting of the city by gas 7prepared from ,english coal71 which had been introduced shortly before our arrival1 and is now extended to the extreme outskirts of the suburbs2 the second is the magnificent aqueduct1 which provides every quarter of ,rio with a lavish supply of excellent drinking-water4 ,however ugly ,rio may look in the daytime1 the gas at night gives it a magnificent and splendid appearance1 particularly from the harbour4 ,when1 the evening after our arrival1 we gazed out upon the brilliantly-illuminated city that lay before us1 we could not help thinking there must be some festive occasion for such a flood of light1 ignorant as we then were of what we learned afterwards1 that ,rio is as fairy-looking by night as it appears gloomy by day4 ,not less surprising1 and forming a strong contrast with the deficiencies and requirements in other particulars1 are the stately fountains that adorn the squares4 ,close by the corner of each street1 gushes out through metal cocks1 a stream of clear1 fresh spring-water1 which has been conveyed by the great aqueduct a distance of #aj or #ab ,english miles from the slopes of the neighbouring ,carioca or ,tejuca mountain-chains4 ,the water supply has been in existence for #abj years1 but the present immense reservoir and various improvements in it have been introduced by the ,brazilian ,government4 ,with the exception of the ,croton aqueduct1 near ,new ,york1 which supplies that city with #dj1jjj1jjj gallons daily1 we do not remember to have seen in any part of the world a similar work of such magnitude4 ,the dreary1 uncomfortable feeling left by the city1 gives way to most enjoyable impressions so soon as one emerges from the suburbs of ,rio1 and seeks compensation for the absence of the appliances of ,european civilization in the eternal grace and majesty of ,nature4 ,walks may be taken in every direction1 each opening up a fresh point of view1 while1 if the visitor take horse or mule1 he may in the course of an hour or two transport himself into the very midst of the most extraordinary features of tropical vegetation4 ,among the most charming of these is a ride to the rocky peak called ,corcovado1 #bcjj feet high1 the road to which runs through magnificent shady forests4 ,on the highest pinnacle of this rocky cone1 which rises rather abruptly on the side of the valleys of ,clementi and ,broca1 a parapet has been erected within these few years1 so that the traveller can gaze over the delightful panorama below with as much1 or even more1 comfort and security1 than from the ,righi or the great ,winterberg in the ,saxon ,switzerland4 ,in the south and south-east rise the two stern-looking mountains1 ,gavia and ,dos ,irmaos1 both of considerable height1 and encircled by the mirror-like lagoon1 ,rodrigo das ,freitas1 near which stands out1 clothed in the most luxuriant verdure1 a part of the botanical garden2 thereafter follows the beautiful valley of ,clementi and ,broca1 with the splendid ,lunatic ,asylum and the fort of ,praya ,vermelha2 beyond which is the smiling cove of ,botafogo1 and the singular ,sugar ,loaf1 which forms such a characteristic feature of the entrance of ,rio harbour2 close beside the latter is the fort of ,san ,juan2 and lastly1 facing the entrance of the bay1 that of ,santa ,cruz1 the strongest in the empire4 ,at our feet lay stretched out the city itself1 with the beautiful valleys of ,larangeiras1 ,engenho ,velho1 and ,catumb ,grande4 ,on the other side of the bay1 just opposite ,rio1 is ,praya ,grande1 the capital of the province1 and in the background the lofty1 spectre-like mountain-chain of the ,organos-- so called from the rocky peaks projecting like so many organ-pipes4 ,what a wondrous prospect6 ,it is scarcely possible to have1 from a single point of view1 a grander or more varied natural picture4 ,we lingered here more than an hour1 and tore ourselves away with reluctance from all those glories which ,nature has shed with so profuse a hand over this enchanting landscape4 ,one of our companions was the veteran ,brazilian naturalist1 the venerable ,dom ,antonio ,ildefonso ,gomez1 who passed several years in ,europe when a young man1 and had1 together with ,humboldt1 once attended the lectures of ,cuvier at ,paris4 ,m4 ,auguste de ,st4 ,hilaire1 during his visit to ,rio1 spent several months at ,dom ,ildefonso's hospitable abode4 ,although now a septuagenarian1 the old physician is uncommonly hale in person1 full of his pristine enthusiasm1 indefatigable in the pursuit of knowledge1 and able to pass an entire day on the back of his mule1 so that he can ride to the most distant consultations without betraying any symptoms of exhaustion4 ,he had brought with him a number of large oranges1 some cheese and bread1 and a bottle of excellent port wine1 so that there was no want of wherewithal to recruit our strength2 and there1 on the summit of the ,corcovado1 our hearts swelling with rapture as the eye ranged over the marvellous landscape that lay unrolled at our feet1 we drank to the prosperity of ,brazil4 ,dom ,ildefonso1 a warm friend to all foreigners1 remarked that within forty years ,brazil will probably be more ,german than ,brazilian or ,portuguese1 and expressed a hope it might be so1 as only by that means1 so far as his observation went1 could his beloved native land hope for a prosperous future4 ,we returned through most charming forest scenery by way of ,larangeiras and ,andarah4 ,throughout the entire distance we rode amidst the most exquisite specimens of tropical vegetation1 palms1 ebony trees1 bignonias1 plantains1 mangoes1 papayas1 and bread-fruit trees1 mingling with which we could discern the various trees and shrubs of the ,northern ,hemisphere1 and occasionally strange plants from ,china1 ,japan1 and ,australia1 which had been planted here by the enterprising hand of foreign settlers4 ,not less charming is the excursion to the ,falls of the ,tejuca1 to which a broad road leads through blooming flower-gardens1 and past delicious country seats1 extending far into the mountains1 and surrounded and overshadowed by a wall as it were of verdure1 consisting of the flowers of ,bignonia bella1 intermingling with the shining leaves of the gigantic ,bougainvillea4 ,the coral tree 7,erythrina coralliflora71 the indigenous magnolia1 the fan-shaped urania1 numerous species of palms1 and lofty1 carefully-tended screw-pines1 plantains with gigantic fruits1 bread-fruit trees1 eugenias1 casuarinas1 and melon trees--such are the blooming odoriferous attractions that here adorn garden and field4 ,ever threading his way among such charming plantations1 the traveller finally reaches the path which1 hemmed in between two mountain ridges of moderate height1 leads direct to the ,tejuca mountains1 while to the right branch off numerous narrow paths conducting to the various adjoining eminences1 from which a view can be obtained of the small cascade4 ,the tropical richness and profusion of vegetation1 has here crowded together upon a few square feet of soil hundreds of plants of all kinds4 ,they strike into the soil1 or struggle upwards to the light1 or give out roots from the stems or branches1 and all twine and tangle with each other to such an extent that often in these tufts and thickets one sees the top of a fern1 without being able to distinguish any part of its stem1 or a passion-flower without any visible stalk or leaves1 all suspended in mid-air1 like so many elegant festoons4 ,a short distance from this singular1 thoroughly tropical landscape1 is the second1 known as the ,great ,cascade1 which1 however1 owes its special attractions rather to the character of the surrounding vegetation than to the volume of water4 ,the trees here grow on a sort of amphitheatre of rocks1 all of colossal size1 and the most widely different forms1 no two of the same species adjoining each other1 their stems and branches adorned with the most beautiful parasites and the blood-red leaves of innumerable creepers1 which in their lavish luxuriance now stretch like garlands from tree to tree1 now hang perpendicularly down from the very highest branch of the tree like a network of green lace1 till they sweep along the ground4 ,the water welling out from the granite rock1 rushes into the abyss below after traversing a rocky declivity1 somewhat resembling a sloping terrace of about twenty fathoms wide4 ,its track is indicated by the irregularly-shaped blocks piled upon each other1 some of which at a little distance below1 their huge wide ridges enclosed by retaining walls1 serve as spots in which to dry in the sun the ripe berries of the coffee plant1 which in many parts hereabout forms an almost impervious forest4 ,as we prosecute our wanderings further1 we finally emerge upon the green hills of the vicinity1 and obtain a charming glimpse of the ocean2 we have now arrived in front of the gigantic outline of the ,gavia1 and directly facing us lies the salt-marsh1 known as ,tejuca-,lake1 in the midst of which rises an island1 thickly overgrown with mango-trees1 standing on their distorted hundredfold roots2 melancholy-looking examples of the inactivity and absence of all attention of the ,brazilian authorities1 who permit such a hot-bed of poisonous miasma to remain in the immediate vicinity of the city1 and leave these plants unchecked to carry on their pestiferous vital processes6 ,returning from such a delightful excursion to ,rio de ,janeiro1 the stranger feels doubly uncomfortable and lonely in the dreary and sombre city4 ,the ,brazilians are in general neither very social nor hospitable1 and only1 after many years' acquaintance1 is a familiar intercourse formed with strangers4 ,in this respect they bear a strong resemblance to the ,spanish-,americans1 whom they also greatly resemble in many of their habits of life4 ,foreigners settled in ,rio spend their evenings generally at their country seats1 some distance from the town1 so that the occasional visitor is deprived of the social intercourse that might otherwise be so accessible4 ,we met with a most hospitable reception at the houses of the ,austrian ,minister1 ,chevalier de ,sonnleithner1 and our ,consul-,general1 as well as from some ,german families1 and also from the ,germania1 a ,club founded by twelve ,germans as far back as #ahba4 ,this ,society numbers now about #bjj members1 and is well supplied with ,german newspapers and periodicals1 besides possessing a well-selected library of several thousand volumes1 and a reading-room1 with restaurant1 smoking1 billiard1 and dancing-rooms attached4 ,of the various nationalities represented at ,rio1 the ,germans are the most respected by the ,brazilians4 ,they are about #cjjj in number1 and as the majority are ,protestants they have their own church1 founded by three ,germans in #ahbg1 which now numbers #fjj members1 and has an annual income of #ejjj milreis4#ch ,the community is under the protection of the ,supreme ,ecclesiastical ,council in ,berlin1 and accordingly1 as often as public worship is joined in1 prayers are offered up for the ,king of ,prussia1 as head of the church4 ,despite its existence for more than thirty years1 the position occupied by the ,evangelical church with reference to the ,state1 has never been accurately defined1 so that differences are constantly occurring4 ,in connection with the congregation are a school1 and a society for aiding distressed ,germans1 which numbers #bjj associates1 and has an annual income of from #fjjj to #gjjj milreis 7#fjj to #gjj74 ,the objects of the association are the advance of money1 pensions1 payment of passage-money for transport1 assistance to unemployed or sick ,german workmen1 education of orphan children1 and so forth4 ,the ,german choral union had given a concert in aid of this humane society1 which alone had realized #cajj milreis 7above #cjj76 ,footnote #ch3 ,one milreis #ajjj reis about #bs4 ,english4 ,the ,brazilian milreis is of this small value as compared with that of the ,portuguese 7#c to #g71 in consequence of its being represented by paper-money of fluctuating value1 which gradually became so depreciated that ,government1 when regulating the value in #ahdf1 were not in a position to restore it to its par value of #cs4 #d;d4 sterling4 ,it is not alone1 however1 as merchants1 engineers1 and artisans1 that the ,germans in ,rio occupy a conspicuous position2 they likewise contribute their mite to the advancement of art and science4 ,for example1 the most important literary enterprise in the empire is in ,german hands1 viz4 the printing and bookselling business of the brothers ,laemmert4 ,their publications embrace two hundred and fifty works1 chiefly of ,portuguese 7not ,brazilian7 authors1 original or translated1 treating of ,brazilian legislation1 history1 medicine1 public instruction1 poetry1 popular literature1 works on religion1 novels1 romances1 kalendars1 and theatrical pieces4 ,one publication due to the founder of the firm1 ,mr4 ,c4 ,laemmert1 a ,bavarian by birth1 has already proved of immense utility1 the ,almanak administrativo1 mercantil1 e industrial1 compiled by himself1 first published in the year #ahdc4 ,from a most defective little pamphlet at its start1 this periodical publication has1 in the course of time1 become developed into an elegant1 simply-classified octavo volume1 #adjj pages thick1 which1 compiled carefully and kept constantly corrected to the latest moment1 despite the most disheartening material difficulties1 gives a very interesting insight into the entire internal organization of the empire1 and at the same time supplies the most authentic information as to the scientific1 commercial1 and industrial activity of the city and province of ,rio4 ,even more important as a medium for the diffusion of useful knowledge among the masses is a sort of popular kalendar1 which is published in duodecimo form1 under the title of ,folinhas 7,leaves71 and for #cbj reis 7about #g-a_/b;d4 ,english71 gives upon #cfj pages an immense amount of useful information4 ,of this publication #hj1jjj copies were sold throughout the empire in the year #aheg4 ,there are very few works of importance written by native authors1 as they devote their energies chiefly to periodical literature4 ,of daily and monthly publications there are abundance1 both in ,rio and in the provinces1 but they have only an ephemeral existence4 ,the press enjoys the most unbounded freedom1 and probably in very few continental cities would such language be tolerated as that of the ,courier du ,brsil1 edited by a ,french refugee4 ,if the influence of journalism in ,brazil is as yet insignificant1 it is in consequence of the prevailing ignorance1 as four-fifths of the population are unable to read or write1 and the papers published are consequently only in the hands of the upper classes4 ,while we found but few opportunities of intercourse with ,brazilian families1 the public authorities received and treated us in the most obliging and distinguished manner4 ,in this respect1 we were particularly indebted to ,dr4 de ,lagos1 ,dr4 ,schch de ,capanema1 ,dr4 ,f4 de ,paulo ,candido1 and ,dom ,m4 de ,portoalegre4 ,these gentlemen took especial pains to make our stay in ,rio as instructive as useful1 and likewise gave us in reply to various scientific queries the most valuable information and practical hints4 ,thus1 for example1 we were favoured by ,dr4 de ,lagos with the following particulars respecting the alleged efficacy of the milky sap of the assac tree 7,hura ,brasiliensis71 and of the bite of the rattlesnake as antidotes in cases of ,elephantiasis1 as also regarding the ,curar1 that celebrated poison with which the ,indians of ,brazil tip their arrows4 ,the assac had long been employed as a remedy for the frightful malady known as ,elephantiasis ,grcorum1 and its use was occasionally followed by the happiest results1 without any attempt having been made thoroughly to investigate the specific action of the juice1 although1 like that of so many other ,brazilian plants1 it would probably surrender1 if scientifically analyzed1 the therapeutical energies which enable it to overcome occasionally the most obstinate cases of disease4 ,the assac is a tree growing in the northern provinces of ,par1 on making an incision into which there exudes a resinous sap1 of a brownish or reddish-white colour1 which coagulates1 and gradually hardens4 ,this inspissated substance is of a dark brown1 rather resembling gum than resin1 and readily soluble in water4 ,when dissolved1 it regains the colour and odour of the sap as it first trickles from the tree4 ,a committee of physicians of ,par long ago presented to the ,brazilian ,government a memorandum as to the practical efficacy and peculiarities of the assac in cases of the above malady1 according to which it appears1 that the symptoms of the patient improve in the most marvellous manner from the very first day on which the remedy is used2 the illness seems to be suddenly arrested1 or1 at all events to make but very slight progress4 ,the milky sap is exhibited internally1 in the form of pills1 and a decoction of the bark is also administered by way of a beverage for the patient1--externally an infusion of the bark is used for bathing purposes4 ,some of those affected1 to whom this remedy was applied1 felt a sensation as of formication1 immediately on taking it1 while others experienced a feeling as though they had been submitted to a series of shocks of electricity1 only weaker and more equable4 ,it is a well-established fact that in many parts of ,south ,america1 a popular belief prevails that the bite of the deadly ,cobra de cascavel1 or rattlesnake1 heals ,elephantiasis1 or pustular leprosy1 in which disease1 as is well known1 the legs and feet of those attacked are covered with a scurf resembling the cuticle of the elephant4 ,however1 instances of the practical application of so terrible a remedy1 which seems to be almost more dreadful than the disease it professes to cure1 are in all probability of rare occurrence1 and are therefore doubly important when1 as in the case detailed to us1 they occurred under the very eyes of a man of science1 and are related by the observer himself4 ,a native1 named ,marianno ,jos ,machado1 from ,rio ,pardo1 in the province of southern ,rio ,grande1 fifty years of age1 had long been afflicted with morphea 7,elephantiasis ,grcorum71 and had already passed four years in the ,lazarus ,hospital at ,rio1 when one day1 worn out with his loathsome malady1 he resolved as a last chance of being delivered from his dread disease1 to submit to the bite of a rattlesnake4 ,all the warnings and representations of the physicians1 who entertained well-founded doubts as to the remedial efficacy of so dangerous a remedy1 were disregarded4 ,marianno betook himself to a house in the ,rua da ,imperatriz1 the occupant of which possessed a living rattlesnake1 and there in the presence of numerous witnesses declared1 signing at the same time a document to the same effect1 that what he was about to do he did of his own free will1 without any influence on the part of strangers1 and that he assumed to himself the entire responsibility of his own deed4 ,marianno was of middling stature and athletic build2 his entire skin was covered with rugosities1 but without any appearance of ulceration1 while his face was frightfully disfigured4 ,the points of his fingers1 moreover1 had entirely lost their form1 the skin readily peeling off from them4 ,the daring sufferer opened the box in which lay the deadly reptile1 and roughly seized it2 but it at first attempted to escape1 as though it too was disgusted at the horrible object before it4 ,when1 however1 it felt itself once more squeezed1 the snake turned round in self-defence1 and bit the man on the finger4 ,marianno was sensible neither of the puncture of the teeth1 nor of the instantaneous activity of the injected poison1 but it became ere long apparent that he had been bitten1 from the blood making its appearance1 coupled with a slight swelling of the hand4 ,several physicians watched by the bedside of the sufferer2 almost every half-hour the observed results were circumstantially reported4 ,when1 however1 the symptoms rapidly became worse1 antidotes were applied1 and every effort made to save the patient4 ,nevertheless1 the result of the experiment was as anticipated--within twenty-four hours after the bite of the rattlesnake ,marianno was a corpse4 ,several members of the medical society of ,vienna laid great stress on our procuring a considerable quantity of the celebrated poison1 curar1 used in ,south ,america for tipping arrows1 with the view of instituting fresh experiments--similar to those already made1 so as to elucidate its chemical and physiological properties4 ,as the curar is not to be procured in ,rio1 but comes thither from the northern province of ,par1 where the natives procure it from the sap of the ,strychnos toxifera1 ,dr4 de ,lagos promised he would take care to procure some1 so as to transmit samples direct to the ,vienna savans1 and at the same time gave us much information as to the latest researches touching this substance1 with whose remarkable properties ,alexander v4 ,humboldt had made the scientific world acquainted1 more than half-a-century previously1 in his classic ,travels through the ,equatorial ,countries4 ,one special peculiarity of the curar consists in the fact that1 like most other organic poisons1 it is only active when absorbed into the circulating system1 and proves entirely innoxious1 nay in some cases even beneficial1 when introduced into the body by other means4 ,the more the faculty became acquainted with the terrific activity1 and invariably fatal results of this poison1 the more zealously did science bestir itself to discover some means of neutralizing the operation of the curar4 ,quite recently the preparations of iodine-natron1 when administered in certain proportions1 have been recognized as antidotes2 dissolved with the curar they seem entirely to obviate its evil effects4 ,careful observation and a gradual acquaintance with the properties of the curar1 have further led to the conclusion that it may be regarded as a remedy in certain cases1 and it has actually been administered with good results to animals affected with tetanic convulsions4 ,may it be reserved to the physicians of our native country1 to elicit from the quantity of this subtle and singular poison1 which they may expect to receive through the kindness of ,dr4 de ,lagos1 such results as shall make its remedial properties available for man1 instead of leaving its baleful energies as at present solely directed to the destruction of organic life6 ,in the company of our ,brazilian friends1 already mentioned1 we also visited the most interesting of the public charities and educational institutions of ,rio4 ,on the occasion of a visit we paid to the in part newly-erected ,casa de ,correo1 which is managed on what is known as the ,auburn system1 we were shown three ,mozambique negroes1 who1 in #aheb1 had been smuggled in a slaver from the east coast of ,africa into ,brazil1 there to be sold as slaves1 despite the interdicts against the introduction of slaves1 then actually in force4 ,the vessel was1 however1 captured by the ,brazilian cruisers1 and the negroes forthwith restored to liberty1 when1 in their own interest1 and with the view of preventing their being a second time sold into bondage1 they were removed to a quarter of the prison away from the rest1 and specially set apart for what are called free ,africans1 where they had been carefully educated and instructed in various handicrafts1 all at the expense of the ,state4 ,as a vocabulary of the idioms spoken by the ,mozambique negroes1 was an especial desideratum of the class of philosophic history in our ,imperial ,academy of ,sciences1 and there seemed to be but little prospect of our expedition visiting the eastern coast of ,africa1 we gladly availed ourselves of this unexpected opportunity to compile the wished-for vocabulary1 in which ,professor ,portoalegre1 ,director of the ,academy of ,fine ,arts1 materially assisted us4 ,two of these negroes1 ,camillo and ,ventura1 were born in ,quillimani1 and belonged to the ,mananpi race2 the third1 ,jeremias1 was born about sixty days' journey from the coast1 of the ,maqua race1 and spoke a dialect of the ,mozambique idiom4 ,ventura1 a youth of1 at the outside1 seventeen years of age1 related that he could perfectly remember having been stolen one night from his parents in ,quillimani1 when he was brought to a slave-dealer named ,jones1 after which he was shipped off in a wretched leaky vessel to the coast of ,brazil4 ,on our asking these three swarthy fellow-labourers1 hearty of aspect and neatly clothed1 who had been so carefully tended by the ,state1 and earned1 one as a house-servant1 the other two as stonemasons1 thirty milreis 7#c #cs47 a month1 whether they did not feel themselves better off in ,rio than in their own home1--they1 with one accord1 answered that they longed to return to ,quillimani1 where it is hardly requisite to work above six months1 and the rest of the year may be consumed in a genuine dolce far niente existence1 instead of being compelled1 as in ,rio1 to work the whole year round6 ,in spite of long-continued efforts1 the vocabulary turned out much less complete than we wished1 in consequence of the limited capacity of these negroes4 ,we did not content ourselves1 however1 with merely transcribing the answers to our questions1 but also endeavoured to obtain a more accurate idea of the precise meaning attached to each1 by repeating each of the words of the ,mozambique language1 and translating into it from the questions put in ,portuguese4 ,this method seemed to be the most effectual for ensuring the correctness of the pronunciation1 so as to permit of its being afterwards reduced to writing4 ,in the arrangement of the vocabulary1 we availed ourselves of what is known as ,gallatin's method1 as it appeared to us more complete and comprehensive than that sent to our academy by the celebrated naturalist and traveller1 ,dr4 ,martius1 of ,munich1 with a request that it should have his list of ,latin words translated into the various languages hitherto unknown1 or such idioms as have been as yet but little examined and investigated4 ,the race1 to which these three negroes belonged1 seems to have been already converted to ,christianity4 ,at least1 they all had ,christian names1 but could give us no information either as to certain heathenish rites in their own country1 or concerning an idol of carved ivory which we showed them1 brought from the east coast of ,africa1 and the method of worshipping it4 ,two of the most elegant edifices of ,rio ,janeiro1 worthy indeed of being placed side by side with the largest charitable establishments in ,europe1 are the immense palace-like ,hospital of the ,santa ,casa da ,misericordia1 in which between #hjjj and #ijjj patients are received and treated annually1 and the really splendid ,lunatic ,asylum 7,asylo dos ,alienados71 in the cove of ,botafogo4 ,the latter institution1 founded in #ahda1 which1 whether as regards the tastefulness of its architecture or its munificent endowment1 can hardly be rivalled anywhere1 owes its existence to one of the most estimable benefactors of his native country1 ,don ,jos ,clemente ,pereira1 ,minister of the ,interior at the time of its erection4 ,this genial1 benevolent soul1 deeply acquainted with the human heart and its weaknesses1 hit1 as we were told1 upon the following eminently original and ingenious method of raising the sums required4 ,all grades of the various ,brazilian orders1 as well as the titles of ,baron1 ,count1 and ,marquis1 were put up for sale at fixed prices1 the proceeds resulting from which purposes were applied to the erection and endowment of the asylum6 ,and thus arose1 at the south end of the cove of ,botafogo1 a splendid palatial edifice--a monument less of humanity and love of our afflicted neighbours1 than of the vanity and frailty of poor human nature1 the tributes to which erected it4 ,unfortunately1 in this establishment1 mere succour is all in all1 and the cure seems entirely lost sight of1 the sanative treatment of the patients lagging far behind their careful supervision2 in short1 it being rather a place for the safe confinement than the recovery of those deprived of their reason4 ,one of the most instructive examples of how little the inhabitants of ,rio make use of the natural capabilities of the site of their capital1 is incontestably furnished by a piece of ground immediately adjoining the ,lunatic ,asylum1 which has been dignified with the name of the ,botanic ,garden4 ,with the exception of a very fine alley of hundreds of graceful king-palms 7,oreodoxa regia71 which present a magnificent spectacle1 growing as they do with such admirable regularity as to appear rather artificial columns than planted trees1 the eye encounters nothing but uncultivated land1 abounding with the commonest vegetation1 alternating with badly-selected nursery plantations1 although both in the climate and the soil every facility is at hand for enabling this garden to be made a means of representing the vegetation of every zone of the globe4 ,even a large tea plantation1 for the cultivation of which #aj1jjj ,chinese were imported at the cost of ,government1 and from which1 if the experiment had proved successful1 the most important results might have been anticipated1 stood there uncared-for and untended1 a melancholy witness of how things are inaugurated in ,brazil1 and then suffered to fall through4 ,when we enquired how long the garden had been laid out1 our guide1 a witty ,portuguese1 replied with a sarcastic smile2 ,since the beginning of the world6 ,in that part of the garden which adjoins the ,lagune1 called ,rodrigo das ,freitas1 stands a common mud hovel1 with broken windows1 and doors hanging by the hinges4 ,this was pointed out to us by a labourer as the spot at which the ,emperor alights and reposes when he visits the ,botanical ,garden4 ,singular to say1 ,brazil possesses no regular university6 ,the jealousy with which any one city invested with certain privileges and prerogatives is regarded by the rest1 is the reason that induced the ,government to separate the medical and juridical classes1 so that each of the four chief cities of the ,empire benefits by the presence of a certain portion of the students4 ,thus the medical schools are in ,rio ,janeiro and ,bahia1 while those of jurisprudence are held in ,st4 ,paul and ,pernambuco4 ,the entire number of students attending these establishments amounted of late years1 on an average1 to upwards of a thousand4 ,great prominence has been assigned by ,government1 especially of late1 to the extension of public instruction4 ,in ,march1 #aheg1 there were throughout ,brazil1 #bdeb schools1 7#gfe private1 and #afhg public17 in which instruction was given to #hb1bdc children of both sexes4#ci ,a school of industry1 having for its object the instruction of able-bodied persons1 was opened in #ahef1 and classes for teaching natural philosophy and political administrative science1 are in process of being introduced4 ,amongst the scientific establishments of the country1 the ,historico-,geographical ,institute occupies the first place1 the meetings of which are generally attended by the ,emperor as honorary president4 ,this institution1 which occupies in ,brazil about the same position as the ,academy of ,sciences in ,vienna1 directs its special attention to the publication of old documents and manuscripts relating to the history of ,brazil and the aboriginal population2 but investigations relating to natural history are also included in its domain of enquiry4 ,the sittings are held every alternate ,friday4 ,the naturalists of the ,novara attended one of these meetings1 which took place in one of the wings of the palace4 ,at half-past #f ,p4,m41 the ,emperor entered the hall1 in plain clothes1 attended by two chamberlains4 ,all the gentlemen present approached one after the other and respectfully kissed the hand of their sovereign4 ,on this occasion we remarked that even ladies1 when presented to the head of the ,state1 were accustomed to kiss his hand4 ,the ,imperial ,honorary ,president1 whose simple apparel was relieved only by the star of some order worn on the breast1 took his seat at the upper end of a long1 wide table1 covered with green cloth4 ,the associates1 with the exception of the ,vice-,president and ,secretaries1 seemed to have no fixed seats1 but sat in the order of their arrival4 ,during the sitting there was the most marked absence of ceremony1 and the business was transacted in the freest and easiest manner4 ,footnote #ci3 ,among the higher class of educational institutions1 the ,college of ,pedro ,segundo ranks foremost1 and is at present attended by about #ijj students4 ,the proceedings were uninteresting1 the greatest portion of the time being occupied in reading over the minutes of the last sitting1 and replying to certain strictures upon the incapacity of land-surveyors in ,brazil4 ,sir ,robert ,schomburgk had1 in one of his works published in #ahdc1 upon the subject of ,new ,guinea1 made some disparaging observations as to the method of admeasurement pursued in ,brazil1 and one member of the society1 ,dr4 ,schch de ,capanema1 seemed to consider it his duty in his double capacity as a ,brazilian and an engineer1 to protest--somewhat tardily it must be owned6--against these1 according to his opinion1 unjust remarks4 ,after the discussion was over1 a manuscript was next brought forward concerning some of the native tribes2 ,his ,majesty expressed a wish to have this treatise read4 ,the secretary accordingly made the attempt1 but the writing was so illegible1 that he was obliged to abandon the task4 ,at the conclusion of the meeting1 which lasted upwards of three hours1 ,his ,majesty conversed very affably with the ,austrian gentlemen1 and presented each with a copy of a national poem1 ,conferaao dos ,tamoyos1 by a native poet1 ,gonalves de ,magalhaes1 and recently printed at ,his ,majesty's expense1 which relates the wars of the ,tamoyos with the ,portuguese residents of ,san ,vincente-- the last struggle of that heroic ,indian race1 the founding of ,rio1 and the subjugation of the entire force1 under ,nictheroy1 by the ,portuguese4 ,the ,palstra ,scientifica is a branch of this institution1 the members being chiefly naturalists4 ,the gentlemen of the ,novara ,expedition were invited to one of the meetings1 which was inaugurated by the secretary reading aloud an ancient manuscript upon the natural resources of various provinces in ,brazil1 according to explorations1 which had been undertaken in #agih1 by the directions and at the cost of the then ,portuguese ,government4 ,there was also read a memoir upon the culture of linseed1 formerly carried on in the province of ,st4 ,catharina1 which1 however1 is now entirely discontinued4 ,dr4 ,schch presented to the ,society vocabularies of the ,croado and ,puris languages1 compiled by ,m4 ,r4 ,f4 de ,senestes1 a retired ,belgian ship captain1 now resident at ,minas1 who had long traded with these two ,indian races4 ,dr4 ,schch also exhibited a pigment1 or dye-stuff1 extracted from the wood of the ,ip-tree1 a species of bignonia1 extensively used in the manufacture of axles4 ,state ,councillor and ,senator ,candido ,baptista de ,oliveira1 formerly ,minister and ,ambassador at ,st4 ,petersburg1 and at that time publisher and editor of the ,rivista ,brasileira 7,brazilian ,review71 brought forward some meteorological tables1 and explained his new method for measuring altitudes4 ,the proceedings are usually conducted in the ,portuguese language2 but out of courtesy to the foreigners1 ,french was principally spoken1 and the ,president kindly proposed that ,dr4 ,schch de ,capanema1 who is thoroughly versed in ,german1 should translate into that idiom the proceedings as carried on in ,portuguese4 ,at the close of the sitting1 the commander of our ,expedition and the various members of the scientific commission were named associates of the ,palstra ,scientifica4 ,this society had projected an expedition to explore the western provinces of the empire1 and some of their members were appointed to draw up the plan for carrying it out4 ,the arrangements for the enterprise were on the grandest scale4 ,the requisite books and scientific apparatus were ordered from ,london1 ,paris1 ,vienna1 and ,berlin4 ,every branch of science had its representative1--an astronomer1 botanist1 zoologist1 ethnologist1 c41 were to accompany the ,expedition2 each section had a number of assistants1 the astronomical as many even as nine4 ,when we arrived in ,rio1 the printed instructions for the use of the members were just being distributed2 and it was asserted that nothing but the non-arrival of the instruments from ,europe prevented the departure of the ,expedition4 ,in short1 the preparations which were made in the year #aheg1 justified the hope that a most brilliant success would be the result of an undertaking got up on so expensive a scale4 ,the only pity is1 that up till now--more than three years later--the ,expedition has had but little result1 and1 according to the latest intelligence from ,rio1 some of the members in the north-east of the province of ,cear cannot proceed any further for want of money 7por falta de dinhero71 and expect new funds in order to continue their explorations and their efforts in search of the wild tribes 7em busca das tribus selvaticas67 in the interior of ,maranhao4 ,there is1 generally speaking1 in ,brazil1 as in all other ,south-,american ,states peopled by the ,roman race1 much of good-will1 and still more vanity1 to follow in the wake of northern ,european civilization in everything pertaining to progress and investigation2 but there is wanting that energy1 that perseverance so characteristic of the ,anglo-,saxon race1 which are essential conditions in successfully carrying out any undertaking1 however zealously entered upon4 ,this probably is the reason why in ,brazil so many things in science and social life are begun and never brought to a conclusion2 there is nowhere more talk about what is to be done1 than at ,rio de ,janeiro4 ,thus1 for example1 the ,museum of ,natural ,history at the ,campo ,santa ,anna1 is an elegant building1 with magnificent apartments1 and large elegantly fitted cases--which1 however1 contain as yet but few objects of natural history1 even those being most unsystematically arranged4 ,another educational institution--the ,military ,academy--founded under ,john ,,vi41 in #ahaj1 for the instruction of the engineers and officers of the various scientific corps1 has1 since then1 undergone nine reforms1 and was just about to undergo another one6 ,in this establishment the highly objectionable practice still exists1 of making every pupil acquainted with the chapter and verse of the subjects of examination twenty-four hours before it takes place4 ,the ,public ,library1 though little more than begun at the period of our visit1 already comprised #hf1jjj volumes1 and is annually increased by an addition of five or six hundred4 ,this institution was1 in #ahef1 visited by #cdjg readers1 who perused #ggag volumes1 mostly in ,portuguese and ,french1 consisting of #bch on theology1 #ajdf on political economy1 #bhgi on natural science1 #aec on the fine arts1 #ajhc on history1 and #bcah on belles-lettres1 which furnishes a very fair criterion for estimating the education of those availing themselves of these advantages4 ,another institution1 which is an evidence of the efforts now making by the ,brazilians to gratify their national vanity1 is the ,conservatorio da ,musica1 a newly-established institution for the promotion of the opera lyrica nacional1 the number of pupils attending which averages #ajj4 ,a custom has lately prevailed of sending one or two of the most gifted of these annually to ,europe to complete their musical studies4 ,during a four years' residence there1 each pupil has a stipend from the ,imperial exchequer of #cjjj francs per annum2 and in the event of obtaining a prize abroad1 he receives a gratuity of #ajjj francs2 his compositions1 however1 in that case become the property of the parent institution4 ,by this means the ,brazilians hope to render themselves entirely independent of foreign musical talent4 ,why should we annually pay hundreds of thousands of francs to foreign singers and concert-givers8 said a ,brazilian to us one day in all earnestness4 ,we shall soon have our own artists--,brazilian ,thalbergs1 ,grisis1 and ,lablaches6 ,confessedly the inhabitants of the ,united ,states have been vain enough in all conscience2 but when we consider the wonderful advances made by that active1 energetic people1 and contemplate their surpassing qualities1 such a national foible is readily overlooked4 ,in ,brazil1 on the contrary1 the contempt affected for everything foreign1 the fretful impatience to become emancipated from the smallest resemblance to ,european customs1 is exceedingly childish and even ludicrous in a country which can hardly yet be said to be able to stand alone1 since the pressure of circumstances is daily making them more and more dependent on other countries1 and where it is necessary to import from abroad not merely the evidences of high culture1 but the very first necessaries of life1 even to obtaining supplies of foreign labour4 ,this overweening self-esteem has rather increased1 since it has become the fashion of young ,brazilians1 of the better classes1 to visit ,europe for the completion of their studies1 as will1 perhaps1 be best illustrated by the following laughable anecdote3--,a young ,brazilian1 the son of a ,german father and a native lady1 who had but recently returned from ,europe1 overheard one of his friends asking another if he could tell of what country he thought the fresh arrival to be1 at the same time indicating the youth1 who just came from the academy of ,freiberg4 ,there can be no doubt on that point1 was the reply2 the blue eyes1 light hair1 and fair complexion1 distinctly indicate that the gentleman is a ,german4 ,god forbid6 7,deu m'en guarda67 exclaimed the young gentleman1 who seemed as it were ashamed of his foreign descent1 and to feel even more indignation than a full-blood ,brazilian at such a mortifying imputation4 ,among the various institutions recently established in ,rio1 the introduction of which is intended to be made available in promoting the physical well-being of the people1 the foremost place must indisputably be assigned to the ,board of ,health 7,junta ,central de ,hygiena ,publica74 ,it owes its origin to the appearance of the yellow fever and the cholera1 which had never been known before in the country4 ,the former broke out on the #bith ,december1 #ahej1 having been introduced by vessels that had cleared from ,bahia1 at which port it had been raging for some weeks4 ,the ravages of this pestilence were fearful in ,rio2 out of a population of #bej1jjj souls1 as many as #abj1jjj were attacked1 and upwards of #ejjj fell a sacrifice to the disease4 ,the first case of cholera occurred a few years later1 on the #aeth of ,july1 #ahee2 and during the months in which it prevailed1 nearly the same number 7to be more precise1 #dhbf7 of the inhabitants of the capital were carried off4 ,the fatal cases throughout the empire from this epidemic during the eighteen months between ,may1 #ahee1 and ,december1 #ahef1 are said to have amounted to the enormous number of #ajg1jic6 ,dr4 ,francisco de ,paulo ,candido1 one of the most eminent physicians of ,rio1 and the principal member of the ,board of ,health1 states1 in a report to the ,government1 relative to the statistics of the cholera throughout the empire1 that he had observed1 during the prevalence of the epidemic1 three phenomena1 which seemed to stand in a certain relation to its appearance1 increase1 and decrease1 viz41 the almost entire disappearance of the ozon in ,july and following months1 when the disease was on the increase2 the gradual increase of that atmospheric agent1 in proportion to the decrease of the disorder2 and lastly1 the influence exercised by humidity and sudden changes in temperature on the intensity of the disease4 ,dr4 ,candido has added to his highly instructive report some meteorological tables and a graphical representation of the presence and absence of ozon in the atmosphere1 which will be published1 in its proper place1 in the medical section of the present work4 ,the consequence of the ravages of these two scourges was1 that a variety of other measures for securing the public health were inaugurated by the newly-established ,board of ,health4 ,among others1 a hospital was set on foot in a charming part of the ,cove of ,jurujuba1#dj at the eastern extremity of the ,bay of ,rio1 expressly for the reception of patients afflicted with yellow fever or cholera4 ,every morning since that attack1 7and during the unhealthy season several times a day71 a small ,government steamer1 fitted up for the purpose1 plies round the bay1 to take up any cases that may happen to occur on board the ships arriving1 and convey them hither free of charge4 ,two medical men on board the steamer commence the treatment1 by applying the necessary remedies1 during the passage from the ship to the hospital4 ,any vessel at anchor in the bay with an epidemic on board1 has1 according to arrangement1 simply to hoist a flag on the mainmast1 whereupon the ,government steamer immediately embarks the sick persons4 ,in order more effectually to keep from all contact with the population of the town1 such shipboard patients as are labouring under infectious complaints1 another hospital has been established on the ,island of ,marica1 situated beyond the bar4 ,footnote #dj3 ,pronounced ,shooru-shooba4 ,in consequence of these recent epidemic attacks1 much greater attention than formerly has of late been paid to the cleanliness of the capital of the ,brazilian empire1 though a great deal has yet to be done in this respect4 ,rio used to be1 without exception1 the dirtiest city in the world4 ,as there were neither gutters nor sewers1 all impurities accumulated during the twenty-four hours used1 towards evening1 to be carried by negroes on their heads1 in pails and casks1 to the bay1 and1 singularly enough1 emptied in the immediate vicinity of the ,imperial palace1 whereby several quarters of the city1 particularly in the hot season1 were rendered entirely uninhabitable4 ,the execution of proper drainage and sewerage works in a city such as ,rio1 which lies on a flat and is densely built near the water1 must be at all times attended with a very large expenditure of money4 ,but who would boggle at any amount for an object which concerns the bodily health1 not merely of the present1 but of all succeeding generations8 ,at the period of our visit1 the ,government had entered into a contract with ,messrs4 ,joaquim ,pereira de ,lima and ,j4 ,f4 ,russell1 by which1 in consideration of a lease for ninety years of certain taxes specially levied1 the two contractors have undertaken to introduce into the capital of ,brazil a system of harbour and street purification1 similar to that which has long been in general use throughout ,england4 ,there had also been lately started a ,companhia ,reformadora1 having for object the widening and beautifying of certain streets1 and the improvement of the paving4 ,one must have lived in ,rio1 where each street and open square is a hotbed of fever and sickness1 to be able aright to estimate the importance of the two last-named associations4 ,a war steamer was1 by the command of ,h4,m4 the ,emperor of ,brazil1 placed at our disposal1 to afford us an opportunity of viewing more closely the most beautiful points in the magnificent bay of ,rio4 ,there were on board with us the ,captain of the ,port1 ,dom ,francisco de ,perura ,pinto1 the captains of the ,brazilian men-of-war lying in the harbour1 as also several members of the ,historico-,geographical ,institute4 ,a military band enlivened the party by playing national airs during the day4 ,we first visited the south-east part of the bay at the villages of ,san ,domingo and ,ponta da ,armacao1 opposite to ,ponta da ,ara1 whence steamers1 for navigating the bay and adjoining coast1 are run by an ,english company1 which employs #ffg hands1 7of whom #bih are foreigners1 #bjg natives1 and #afb negro slaves74 ,except a part of the funds advanced by native capitalists1 the whole undertaking is carried out by foreigners4 ,england furnishes the engineers and machinery1 whilst the requisite timber is brought from ,norway and ,north ,america4 ,the value of the labour employed during #ahef amounted to nearly #ij1jjj4--,we proceeded hence past the islands of ,salinas and ,honorio1 and between the island of ,baretto and the eastern shore of the bay1 as far as the luxuriant island of ,paquet1 on the lovely shores of which we landed4 ,it has a circumference of five miles1 and is inhabited by #af1jjj persons1 who convert shells into chalk2 nearly all the houses on shore are chalk-kilns4 ,during the dry season this island is the favourite ,sunday resort of the fluminenses1 as the ,rio de ,janeirians delight to call themselves4 ,from this sweet spot the steamer carried us to the north side of the bay4 ,in the back-ground1 the ,organos mountains now appeared in all the majesty of their imposing outline1 whilst on one of the projecting ridges1 the church ,san ,francisco de ,croara forms an extremely picturesque object4 ,illustration3 ,,island ,,of ,,paquit1 ,,bay ,,of ,,rio4 ,the more the northern portion of the bay is approached1 the more romantic becomes the panorama of the mountains3 from this point stand out in their full grandeur the ,serra da ,estrella1 the ,serra da ,tingu 7which is currently believed to be the highest mountain1 not merely on the bay1 but in ,brazil71 then the deep valley of ,santa ,cruz1 next to which the mountain-chains of ,suaratyba1 and the ,serra de ,iguasso1 rise majestically1 melting away into the charming ,tejuca chain1 the ,gavia1 and the world-renowned ,corcovado1 whilst the ,sugar ,loaf1 that gigantic guardian at the entrance of the harbour1 splendidly terminates this magnificent amphitheatre4 ,we passed the largest of the islands in the bay1 the ,ilha do ,governador1 which has a circumference of upwards of seven miles1 and is inhabited by about a hundred persons chiefly employed in the chalk-kilns1 sail-cloth and soap manufactories2 and touched at some wild spots that promised a harvest for our naturalists4 ,here and there1 from the deep blue waters1 sprang up islands of the most luxuriant vegetation1 like tropical idylls of rock and forest1 such as the eye marvels to rest upon1 but the pen refuses to describe4 ,indelibly impressed on our minds remains in this respect the lovely islet of ,cataln1 with its beautiful flowers and palms4 ,on approaching the capital1 towards the east of the bay1 passing the island ,bom ,jesus1 with a magnificent ,franciscan monastery1 and the ,ponta do ,caj1 with charming country seats1 a forest of masts1 strikes the eye in bold contrast with the ,sugar ,loaf in the east1 and the ,morro de ,viracao and the fort ,pico in the west1 which covers the position of ,santa ,cruz4 ,unfortunately we went down1 just at this point1 to a splendid banquet1 etiquette requiring that we should exchange the quarter-deck for the state-room2 for in ,brazil also1 upon such occasions1 meals and speechifying play an important part1 and greatly prejudice the special object of travel--the enjoyment of nature4 ,we were not yet done1 however1 with our excursion4 ,again we turned towards the beautiful ,cove of ,jurujuba1 where on the shore lay pretty little cottages embowered in the richest foliage1 while1 through a deep depression1 appeared the masts of ships which were still on the bosom of the ocean outside1 on the point of entering the harbour4 ,as the vessel steamed in1 the scenery changed character at every moment1 like a fairy landscape1 full of the loveliest1 most enchanting glimpses of the surrounding country4 ,at ,jurujuba1 we landed to visit the ,hospital ,maritimo de ,s4 ,isabel1 erected in #ahec1 for the reception of sailors in ill-health of all nations and creeds4 ,it proved of immense utility during the prevalence of epidemics4 ,in the five years of its existence at the period of our visit1 there had been admitted nearly #fjjj cases of yellow fever4#da ,for the excellent management of this fine hospital the utmost credit is due to the physicians in charge1 ,dr4 ,bento ,maria da ,costa1 and ,dr4 ,jos ,teixeira da ,souza4 ,footnote #da3 ,in the year #ahef1 #bdeb patients were received into the hospital at ,jurujuba ,cove1 of whom #age died1 #baie were dismissed cured1 and #hb remained under treatment4 ,by comparison with former years1 the number of sick seemed to have fallen off #ac per cent41 while the expenses of management had increased #i per cent4 ,the ground immediately surrounding the hospital has been reclaimed by the hand of man1 and transformed into a garden1 in which flourish1 in solitary majesty1 the shady ,aleurites triloba and the ,anda ,gomesii1 growing in avenues or other regular groups1 after all wild vegetation had been cut down4 ,but at the first step beyond1 the foot of the wanderer through these solitudes strikes into paths leading through the richest1 densest forest scenery ,casuarinas 7,anacardium occidentale71 with its luscious pear-shaped fruits1 the ,indian mango-tree1 the various species of ,eugenia1 so rich in ethereal oil1 the ,figuera ,branca 7ficus doliaria71 the canoe-tree1 a gigantic species of ,bombax1 protected by sharp spines1 and other lofty forest-children1 reach to the very buildings2 while1 amid the dense underwood that grows unchecked1 and a few paces distant only from the dwellings of man1 lurk dangerously poisonous snakes1 who find here a secure haunt4 ,within our own experience1 as one of the botanists of the ,expedition was placing a ladder against a primval forest tree1 the progenitor of numberless scions1 he stumbled upon a poisonous ,jacaraca1 ready to defend from intrusion his accustomed resting-place4 ,at the north-west entrance of ,jurujuba ,cove1 rises a lofty island1 with the appropriate name of ,bom ,viajem 7a happy voyage71 with its church of the ,virgin of the same name1 situate on the extreme summit1 #djj feet in height4 ,as1 during our visit to the hospital1 the twilight had crept stealthily on1 we returned without further stoppage to ,rio2 when the company1 landing at the usual landing-place of the arsenal1 separated1 full of the most pleasing impressions1 arising from the beautiful scenery enjoyed during the day1 and a deep sense of gratitude for the noble hospitality shown us by our amiable hosts4 ,another favour was conferred by ,drs4 de ,lagos and ,schch1 who formed a fishing-party on a grand scale1 which was greatly enjoyed by all1 though the gun proved more profitable to our naturalists than rod1 line1 or net4 ,as the number of days at our disposal in ,rio ,janeiro began to diminish1 we applied ourselves to seeing the utmost possible with the smallest sacrifice of time4 ,the morning after our excursion on board the ,santa ,cruz1 we attended a sitting of the ,chamber of ,deputies4 ,the hall1 oval in shape1 is plainly1 but comfortably fitted up4 ,the members sit on benches in a semicircle4 ,opposite the president stand tables for the ministers of state2 at the upper and lower end of the hall are galleries for the public1 and one is specially assigned to the diplomatic body4 ,each member speaks from his place4 ,their language is very free and their behaviour still more so1--they sometimes carry this so far as not to allow a speaker to proceed2 and in screaming1 brawling1 and violence1 they excel even certain members of the late ,french ,chamber of ,deputies4 ,there are said to be some very able speakers amongst the ,brazilians4 ,the subject of debate was a petition presented to the ,house for an inquiry into the conduct of a late minister of justice1 who was accused of having tyrannically dismissed a government officer in the province of ,maranhao4 ,the subject had created great interest in the public mind1 and the galleries were crowded to suffocation2 we did not remain till the conclusion of the debate1 but the minister is said to have justified the proceeding by proving that the officer had allowed himself to be bribed4 ,on the same day we made an excursion to the ,serra da ,estrella and ,petropolis1 a place which has of late excited so much attention in the public journals1 since the question of ,german emigration to ,brazil1 with its accompaniments of agitations by the ,brazilian recruiting agents1 began to assume its present remarkable proportions4 ,though the distance from ,rio to ,petropolis may be accomplished in four hours1 yet three different vehicles are required3--in the first place1 a steamer from ,rio to the railway-station on the opposite side of the bay1 then the railway to ,fragosa1 and lastly1 a carriage to the final destination over an excellent road which runs through the mountains to ,petropolis4 ,this fine work1 which was opened in #ahdh1 is unfortunately the only one of its kind in the whole empire1#db as are likewise the five miles of railway between ,mau and ,fragosa2 and yet how highly important would railway communication prove from the metropolis to the northern provinces1 by means of which the excessive cost of carriage by mules might be so considerably reduced1 benefiting alike the landowner and the merchant6 ,as an illustration1 the fact may be mentioned1 that the cost of transit for an arroba 7#cb lbs47 of coffee from the coffee district of ,vassouras to ,rio1 a distance of about #ej miles1 amounts to from #gjj to #hjj reis 7about #as4 #h;d474 ,the trouble and expense connected with this miserable mode of conveyance1 so much enhance the price of some kinds of natural produce1 that it does not pay to transport them to the harbour of the capital4 ,several companies have latterly been projected1 and money subscribed for constructing railways in the various provinces of the empire1 and a few of these are already under weigh1 as1 for example1 that of ,dom ,pedro ,segundo1 which will put the richest provinces in direct communication with ,rio1 and for which the amount of money required has been entirely subscribed4 ,but in this1 as in all other ,brazilian enterprises1 energy is wanting to make these good intentions bear fruit2 and so long as there is not a greater admixture of foreign go-a-head-ativeness in the country1 much must remain confined to the mere expression of patriotic wishes4 ,and in this connection1 foreign immigration1 of which we shall treat further on1 will prove of immense importance4 ,footnote #db3 ,this road is to be continued from ,petropolis as far as ,parahyba2 and in various other directions also the building of roads for commercial traffic is being fostered by ,government4 ,the ,brazilian ,government are at the same time turning their attention to improving the existing means of transport by importing dromedaries for use4 ,as it withstands variation of temperature1 and thrives on almost any kind of nourishment1 the dromedary is certain to do well1 especially in the northern provinces1 and will prove exceedingly serviceable in the transport of the products of that section of the country4 ,the great heat and drought which prevail in ,maranhao1 ,piauhy1 ,matto ,grosso1 and that direction generally1 is eminently suitable to the dromedary1 which does not thrive in hot damp weather4 ,it is calculated that a dromedary1 which can carry an average weight of #gjj pounds1 7being six times what a horse1 and four times what a mule will carry on his back71 costs1 in his own country1 from #ab to #af2 and after paying cost of transport to ,brazil1 will be worth #dh4 ,with the introduction of the ship of the desert1 that of the date-palm must go hand in hand1 as that fruit constitutes the chief food of the dromedary1 and will probably simultaneously effect a great change in the articles of consumption by the lower orders4 ,the journey by carriage through the ,sierra from ,fragosa to ,petropolis is extremely beautiful4 ,he who is not fortunate enough to enter deeper into the interior1 at least obtains here an idea of what constitutes a primval ,brazilian forest4 ,the wonders of tropical vegetation1 as manifested not only by vastness of form but also by gorgeous and rank luxuriance1 strike the eye at first-sight almost the same way as an overpowering chorus affects the ear4 ,it requires time to collect the thoughts1 so as to be able to appreciate and enjoy thoroughly the extraordinary beauties that impress the wondering mind4 ,if the eye of the astonished traveller has been but in the most cursory manner directed to the vegetable phenomena that surround him1 it must have rested on a climbing plant1 which constitutes one of the chief marvels of the native woods4 ,this singular creeper is the ,cipo matador1 a climbing plant of a very peculiar aspect1 at once the most powerful and most destructive of all the ,cipo tribe4 ,it twines round the stems of lofty trees1 which its flattened coils gradually constrict with almost life-like cruelty6 ,its arial roots run out from all parts and embrace the tree like artificial clamps1 forming in some places complete rings1 and in others growing into the very bark4 ,the tree1 in consequence of this parasitic embrace1 dies away by degrees1 whilst its destroyer continues to grow gaily on the corpse of its victim1 and spreads its leafy crown until it falls and perishes simultaneously with the support that had hitherto upheld it4 ,to what profound reflections does the contemplation of this spectacle give rise6 ,involuntarily our thoughts fly from the wild ,brazilian forest to the plains of civilization1--to the modern society where1 likewise1 many a noble human nature is slowly undermined by a treacherous ,cipo matador of flesh and blood1 till too surely he falls prone on the ground6 ,petropolis is1 on account of its more temperate and healthy climate1 a favourite residence of the wealthy ,rio de ,janeirians1 and during the hot season1 when the sultriness of the air1 if not something worse1 renders life almost unendurable1 ,petropolis is said to have the appearance of a ,european spa4 ,it is at the same time the summer residence of the ,emperor1 and the only place in ,brazil where an electric telegraph--uniting it with ,rio de ,janeiro--has been established4 ,the town contains about #gjjj inhabitants2 the streets1 when completed1 will be broad and handsome1--but only one has as yet been finished1 the others being merely marked out1 while even among the clean and neat houses already erected1 there are frequent and wide gaps4 ,the ,german colony1 planned by a ,german engineer1 ,julius ,friedr4 ,khler1 is at a little distance from ,petropolis4 ,the first colonists who arrived on the #cjth of ,july1 #ahde1 came mostly from ,baden and the ,rhenish provinces4 ,the ,government granted to each family a cottage1 with a slice of forest near it1 a cow1 a dozen of chickens1 and about #e in money4 ,such at least was the information given us at ,petropolis4 ,khler soon afterwards met with a sad end at a newly-formed shooting ground4 ,many an emigrant family perished in misery2 others1 however1 overcame the difficulties that beset them at the commencement2 more emigrants arrived1 and now one may walk1 within a few hours1 through the ,rhine and ,mosel valleys1 ,nassau1 ,darmstadt1 ,ingelheim1 ,bingen1 the ,palatinate and ,switzerland1 as the emigrants1 in fond commemoration of their native homes1 call their small settlements1 which run some distance through the mountain valleys4 ,the ,german origin of these settlements displays itself distinctly in the cleanliness and neatness of their log cabins1 the affability of the people1 the heartiness of their greeting1 the fair hair1 curly heads1 and beautiful blue eyes of the children1 as well as the language and music which is now and then heard4 ,petropolis is1 however1 not an agricultural colony in the real sense of the word1 the majority of the #bejj ,germans settled there obtaining a livelihood as artizans and labourers4 ,the ,government has done much to promote the growth of the colony1 by making roads1 and establishing schools4 ,still the people never become agriculturists1 on account of the sterility of the soil2 but as the road to the province of ,minas ,geraes runs through the place1 the settlement will always retain some importance4 ,for the cargoes of coffee which are conveyed by mules from the interior to the harbour1 ,petropolis is the last station1 and will remain so for a long time yet1 for the large outlay required renders it unlikely that the projected railway will soon be completed4 ,several attempts have been made to establish similar ,german colonies in various provinces of the empire1 but1 unfortunately1 with as yet even less success than in the ,serra da ,estrella4 ,however1 the activity of the ,brazilian emigration agents has much increased in different ,german ports2 for the remarkable words of the ,emperor1 with which he opened the ,chambers in ,may1 #ahed1 at ,rio1--,the necessity of a settled industrious population becomes more and more urgent1--have become since then even more significant2 in fact1 the result of the endeavours on the part of the ,government to increase the amount of labour by immigration1 is now a question of life or death for the empire4 ,every disinterested person feels that1 without an increase of labour1 productive activity is impossible2 nay1 some even apprehend a considerable decrease in the producing capabilities of the country1 in consequence of the effect to be anticipated in ,brazil from the abolition of the slave-trade by the interference of ,england4 ,up to the year #ahea1 the importation of negro slaves continued undiminished1 notwithstanding the treaty with ,england of #ahbf1 in which the abolition of the slave-trade forms one of the conditions on which the recognition of the ,brazilian crown by the ,government of ,her ,britannic ,majesty was made specially contingent4 ,according to a statement of the ,foreign ,office1 there were from #ahdb to #ahea 7despite the treaty7 #cbe1fae negroes sold as slaves in ,brazil1 so that the amount of the slave population is now upwards of #b1jjj1jjj souls4 ,the condition of the black population in this country is materially different from that of the ,united ,states and the ,west ,indies4 ,the colour of the skin1 which renders the life of even free and prosperous negroes almost intolerable in the northern states of ,america1 where they are subject to so many humiliations1 makes in ,brazil no difference whatever4 ,the question here is not whether white or black1 but whether free or a slave4 ,free negroes may here occupy the highest places in the ,state1 and even exercise a certain influence on the destiny of the white inhabitants4 ,slaves also are treated here with more humanity and less prejudice than in any other country visited by me1 on which the curse of slavery yet rests2 yet it must be confessed1 without hesitation1 that slavery1 as beheld in ,brazil1 seems even a greater misfortune to the white population than to the black2 for neither agriculture nor industry can thrive in a country where labour is not considered1 as in free ,states1 an honourable occupation--but rather as a disgrace--in consequence of its being performed by slaves4 ,not merely the blacks1 who have no interest in being industrious1 but their masters also are lazy1 and approaching ruin becomes more and more certain4 ,free labour alone1 by obtaining the upper hand in the country1 can remedy these things4 ,slave labour cannot long compete with it4 ,the intelligence1 activity1 and perseverance of #ajj1jjj free white labourers will promote the prosperity and the happiness of ,brazil1 much more than the compulsory labour of two millions of negroes in bondage4 ,in consequence of repeated and energetic remonstrances on the part of the ,british ,government1 the slave-trade has now ceased in ,brazil1 and one of the grandest monuments of our century1 as the celebrated declaration by the ,congress of ,vienna termed the entire suppression of the slave-trade1#dc may be considered by this circumstance approaching its termination4 ,footnote #dc3 ,dclaration des puissances sur l'abolition de la traite des ngres1 du #h ,fvrier1 #ahae4 ,l4 ,neumann1 ,recueil des traits et conventions conclus par l',autriche 7,leipzig1 #ahef4 ,vol4 ,,ii41 p4 #ejb74 ,as the ,government became convinced that there was not the least hope of reaping any advantage from civilizing the aboriginal tribes1 it had recourse to free immigration1 and promoted it in every way4#dd ,it endeavoured1 particularly in the warmer northern provinces1 to replace the deficiency of negroes by ,chinese ,coolies1 who were imported from different parts of ,china2 but they could not stand the climate1 and were not found capable of advantageously replacing the negro in his various and often very heavy labour4 ,this partially arose from the indiscriminate selection of the immigrants1 as the agents1 when they could not obtain able-bodied men1 did not scruple to make up their cargo with whatever came to hand4 ,footnote #dd3 ,it may be useful1 however1 on many accounts to observe1 that the ,brazilian ,government take considerable pains to adapt this doomed race for a civilized mode of existence4 ,a law of #aith ,september1 #ahee1 assigned an annual sum of #fjjj for the proper execution of this humane project4 ,in order to remedy the very marked deficiency of suitable missionaries1 the ,government1 through its representative in ,paris1 invited a number of ,catholic priests from ,france--men1 whose rearing and zeal for their faith had effected such marvels among the ,indians of ,canada4 ,but the aborigines of ,brazil seem hopelessly degraded1 and are destined1 after having filled their appointed place in the history of nations1 to make room for a more energetically endowed race4 ,the ,government pays1 therefore1 the utmost attention to ,european immigration2 it has agents in ,portugal1 ,france1 ,italy1 ,belgium1 and especially in ,germany2 and endeavours to organize associations that have for their object the settlement of industrious labourers in the country1 and to support colonies already in existence1 till they are in a position to maintain themselves4 ,in ,brazil1 the conviction is pretty general1 that only an emigration en masse of white labour can save this splendid country from ruin1 though there are individuals who entertain a different opinion1 and think--perhaps not altogether without reason--that the energy and industry of ,european settlers might eventually--considering the indolent and careless disposition of their countrymen--prove destructive to the national element6 ,the most striking proof of how thoroughly in earnest the leading members of the ,brazilian ,government are in their efforts to procure an immigration of foreign labour1 may be found in the report of the ,commission upon the new tariff1 in which the following passage occurs1 illustrative of the advantages which may be expected to be reaped from ,european emigration on a large scale3--',these foreign labourers arrive here poor1 and depart from the country laden with our gold and silver1 and1 like blood-suckers1 absorb our natural riches6' is the remark of those who are ignorant of the true interests of ,brazil4 ,for to whom are we indebted for our capital1 for the industry and commerce which we have8 ,to whom belong those manufactories which the people want to protect1 and in whose favour so much is said8 ,why1 to foreigners6 ,foreign hands and foreign capital cultivate our soil1 expand our trade and commerce1 and promote the arts4 ,the results of their labour remain1 though they may themselves quit the country6 ,foreigners man our ships1 build our manufactories1 and supply them with hands2 foreigners buy our produce and carry it to distant markets2 foreigners render our forests and rivers productive2 they work our mines1 uncover the metallic wealth of our country1 and educate our children6 ,capital1 practical science1 instruments1 and machines1 with which we perform our labours1 belong mostly to foreigners2 and1 consequently1 these blood-suckers are just the very men who render our land productive1 preserving1 instead of1 as some erroneously imagine1 depriving us of our vitality4 ,the money which they take back to their homes is amply replaced by the treasures they leave behind in the product of their labour1 and in the branches of industry which they have introduced or improved4#de ,footnote #de3 ,of the sixty-four manufactories and workshops1 twenty-eight belong to foreigners2 and there is not a single industrial establishment in which foreigners are not employed1 either as managers1 engineers1 or labourers4 ,more explicitly and discerningly it was hardly possible for ,government to speak1 and to enumerate the glorious results which the country may expect from the introduction of foreign industry and foreign activity1 although such an official avowal could not fail to wound the national pride of the ,brazilians4 ,notwithstanding this strong language of the ,government1 and all the enticements and zealous activity of the ,brazilian agents in the various ports of ,europe1 the emigration to that country1 in #ahef1 amounted to only #ac1hjj souls4#df ,among this number there were but #fbh agriculturists1 all the others coming merely with the view of obtaining a livelihood in the capital as artizans and labourers4 ,there are probably in all the ,brazilian agricultural colonies1 at this moment1 not more than #dj1jjj emigrants settled1 that is to say1 about as many as emigrate in the course of three months to the ,united ,states6 ,footnote #df3 ,namely3 #iaei ,portuguese1 #ahbb ,germans1 and #bhai of other nations4 ,the number of ,germans emigrating to ,brazil is strikingly small1 when compared with the total annual emigration from that country4 ,of #fa1dac individuals1 who1 in #ahef1 embarked from ,hamburg and ,bremen1 only #ahbb went to ,brazil4 ,the cause of this may be that1 simultaneously with the large promises held out by the agents1 warning voices were heard depicting in the most gloomy colours the terrible trials that await the unfortunate immigrant on his touching ,brazilian soil4#dg ,of late such excellent works have been published concerning ,brazil1 that we may advise all who take a special interest in the condition of that empire to study these works1 the more so as the views therein expressed exactly coincide with our own impressions4#dh ,footnote #dg3 ,among these1 the opposition of the late ,consul-,general for ,brazil at ,dresden1 ,mr4 ,john ,sturz1 deserves special mention1 as1 despite the threats of losing his appointment1 that gentleman was incessantly occupied in exposing the iniquities of the ,parceria system 7see post71 and recommending the immigrant1 so long as such a slavish system continued1 to refrain from turning his steps towards ,brazil4 ,mr4 ,sturz had recently the enviable misfortune of being sacrificed to his own strong sense of justice1 and dismissed from all employment by the ,brazilian administration1 though not without carrying with him the respect and admiration of every friend of humanity4 ,an excellent and circumstantial description of the present condition of the ,german colonies in southern ,brazil will be found in ,dr4 ,av ,lallemant's attractive ,travels through ,southern ,brazil in #aheh4 7,leipzig1 #ahei47 ,footnote #dh3 ,h4 ,handelmann's ,history of ,brazil 7,berlin1 #ahfj71 a remarkably profound and instructive work1 devotes a special section 7p4 #icc7 to the subject of ,german emigration1 and gives a very copious and complete insight into the various missions and works since #ahai to the present day1 which treat of ,german emigration and colonization4 ,so long as the unoccupied lands are not surveyed1 laid out in lots1 and sold at a small rate to the settler1 as1 for instance1 in the ,united ,states2 so long as the immigrant is unable to improve for himself his own plot of ground1 but must remain a mere field-labourer1 working for some foreign master1 according to the iniquitous ,parceria1 or half-profits system2#di so long as the expense of transport of the emigrant is to be worked off by future payments out of his labour1 so long must every friend of humanity strongly dissuade the emigrant from proceeding to the great ,south ,american ,empire4 ,footnote #di3 ,the modern ,brazilian system of ,parceria may be shortly stated as that by which a planter engages in ,europe such of the poorer classes as are desirous of emigrating1 and has them transported at his own cost to ,brazil1 where they are engaged as farmers1 with half profits1 upon the coffee and sugar plantations1 and contracting to reimburse him1 by their personal services and labour1 for the outlay he has been at for their transport1 maintenance1 instruction1 c4 ,until all these have been repaid by the improvement in the rent or productive powers of the land1 they must remain1 as working out their emancipation from the lord of the soil1 veritable adscripti gleb4 ,after that has been attained they are free people1 and may leave if they please1 or may sink into the rank of unattached labourers1 which implies their assigning half of the net produce of the land to the ground landlord1 the remaining half being their remuneration for labour4 ,proprietorship in the soil is never attainable by these farmers on half profits1 inasmuch as the ,parceria system can only exist where the soil is already exclusively vested in a planting aristocracy4 7,see ,handelmann1 etc41 p4 #efh74 ,for ,brazil1 beautiful1 fertile1 and abounding in undeveloped natural wealth1 two alternatives are alone open at present--either ruin to the producing power of the population through deficiency of industrial power1 or the throwing open the land to foreign emigration by means of the most extensive concessions4 ,the longer this is deferred1 the more oppressively will the want of manual labour manifest itself2 and the more advantages will foreign emigration secure4 ,once1 however1 these important stipulations are conceded1 the ,german emigrants may forthwith bend their steps to the coasts of ,brazil1 where the glorious dawn of a magnificent future is surely breaking for them4 ,while1 in the ,united ,states1 the problem to be solved by the ,german emigrants seems to be1 to mingle ,german industry1 ,german capacity1 and ,german knowledge1 with the keen spirit of enterprise and restless energy of the ,anglo-,saxon race1 and gradually to assimilate with it1--on the other hand1 in the ,south ,american continent1 it appears as though the ,german element were about gradually to gain the upperhand of the ,latin stock1 and permanently to conquer for ,german industry and ,german commerce1 one of the fairest countries on the globe with the weapons of peace--the spade and plough4 ,brazil is1 however1 of great interest to ,germany not merely on account of the prospects she holds out for its overflowing population4 ,a market1 teeming with the most important colonial products1 with an area#ej of #c1ief1hjj ,english square miles1 and an annual consumption of nearly #aj1jjj1jjj1 must in the highest degree attract the attention and excite the most favourable anticipations of a country such as ,germany1 the majority of whose inhabitants are engaged in manufactures4 ,footnote #ej3 ,according to the computation of the ,historico-,geographical ,institute of ,brazil4 ,the chief article of ,brazilian trade at present is coffee1 the production of which1 in consequence of the great profit of late years derived from it1 has increased so much1 that it has superseded the cultivation of all other produce2 thus1 notwithstanding the fertility and capability of the ground1 even the commonest necessaries of life1 as1 for instance1 potatoes1 must be imported from abroad1 the majority of the rural population being engaged in labour for the foreign market1 and only very few for home consumption4 ,this is the principal cause of the enormous prices which1 even the most indispensable necessaries have reached in ,rio de ,janeiro4 ,brazil grows annually1 in the provinces of ,rio1 ,bahia1 and ,santa ,catharina1 #e1aij1jjj quintals of coffee1 consequently more than three-fifths of the entire amount produced on the whole earth1 and of this the province of ,rio de ,janeiro alone yields two-thirds4 ,the most important objects of export1 besides coffee1 are sugar1 rice1 cotton1 hides1 and dried meat1 together with dye and cabinet woods4 ,the progressive decrease of late years in these articles may probably be ascribed to the want of sufficient labour1 as well as to the great extent to which the culture of coffee has been carried4 ,although the trade carried on between ,brazil and ,europe1 and its great importance1 will form the object of a special work1 we cannot help noticing in this place as a very interesting fact1 that among the importations1 that of wheat-flour holds a very conspicuous place1 above #cjj1jjj barrels of #bjj lbs4 each being annually consumed1 of which seventeen twentieths are supplied by the ,united ,states1 two twentieths from ,trieste and ,fiume1 and the remaining one twentieth from ,lisbon and ,valparaiso4 ,the flour from ,trieste1 by reason of its whiteness and superior quality1 commands a high price1 so as to necessitate its being mixed in baking with that from ,baltimore4 ,we were told it occasionally happens1 that the best quality of the much-appreciated ,trieste or ,fontana flour reaches the price1 altogether unapproachable by the finest ,american flour1 of #fd to #ff shillings the barrel4 ,as in the interior of the country the flour chiefly used is that called ,mandioca1 prepared from the root of ,jatropha ,manihot1 it follows that the chief consumer of wheaten flour is ,rio itself1 the monthly consumption amounting to upwards of #af1ejj barrels4 ,the reason for the small sale of the ,austrian manufactures in ,brazil must be sought for1 not so much in the deficient supplies of the articles required1 as in the circumstance that the ,austrian manufacturers have not hitherto found it much their interest to study the ,brazilian market1 so as to make the requisite alterations in the method of producing their fabrics1 and thus render them suitable for that purpose4 ,what little of our ,austrian manufactures is at present exported for ,brazilian consumption1 seems at present to follow the1 to all appearance1 much less natural route northwards1 and instead of proceeding from ,trieste direct1 is exported from ,bremen or ,hamburg as fabrics of ,northern ,germany4 ,during our stay at ,rio1 ,commodore ,wllerstorf1 accompanied by ,captain ,pck1 and one of the members of the scientific commission1 had the honour of being presented to the ,emperor and ,empress of ,brazil1 at a private audience4 ,the reception took place at the winter residence of ,st4 ,christoph4 ,it is an old unsightly building1 and still unfinished1 the central part especially having been for some years in a ruinous condition4 ,the ,emperor seems not to be partial to display1 and a very characteristic anecdote in this respect1 which does him great credit1 is very generally reported4 ,on the occasion of a visit to the splendid lunatic asylum of ,botafogo1 one of the ministers remarked to ,his ,majesty that the inmates of the establishment were better and more elegantly lodged than himself4 ,it will always afford me great pleasure1 was the reply1 to know that these unfortunate people are better provided for than ,i am4 ,at the entrance of the palace at ,st4 ,christoph1 the gentlemen of the ,expedition were received by an ecclesiastic1 who led them into an exceedingly plain ante-chamber1 the furniture of which seemed to belong to bygone centuries4 ,several of the ministers of state1 whose servants carried large portfolios1 exchanged compliments with the ,austrian minister1 and entered the contiguous apartments4 ,chamberlains and domestics of the court looked stealthily at the strangers1 and disappeared as rapidly as they had come4 ,it seemed as though these presentations were of infrequent occurrence4 ,at last1 about half-past #f ,p4,m4 the door opened1 when ,his ,majesty and the ministers walked through the room into the hall of audience1 into which the gentlemen of the ,expedition were soon afterwards conducted by a chamberlain4 ,the ,austrian minister presented each separately to ,his ,majesty ,dom ,pedro ,,ii41 who is the son of an ,austrian ,archduchess1 and received the gentlemen in the uniform of an admiral1 surrounded by all his ministers4 ,he is a fine-looking man1 of some #cj years of age1 of stately appearance1 but with a voice somewhat too thin for so robust a person4 ,the portrait on the ,brazilian coinage is remarkably like4 ,the conversation was carried on in ,french2 it is said1 however1 that the ,emperor speaks ,german fluently4 ,he conversed very affably and graciously with every one1 and had something agreeable to say to each1 expressing much interest in the ,novara ,expedition4 ,after several questions1 the ,emperor wished us success on our future voyage1 and retired1 upon which the audience was at an end4 ,after the members of the ,expedition had remained a short space in a corner of the audience chamber1 they were conducted through a narrow boarded passage to the apartments of the ,empress4 ,in the ante-chamber we again encountered the ,emperor1 who had exchanged his admiral's uniform for plain clothes1 and now stood before us in the undress black frock he usually wears4 ,we were now ushered into the small and very plainly furnished reception-room of the ,empress1 in which there was nothing to attract attention except a couple of highly-finished portraits4 ,her ,majesty1 a sister of the late ,king ,ferdinand ,,ii4 of ,naples1 and of ,queen ,maria ,christina of ,spain1 was in mourning owing to a death in the family4 ,she was only attended by one lady in waiting1 and received us with infinite grace4 ,she is rather short in stature1 and although still young1 looks aged2 in conversation she becomes however very animated1 and thereby gains in gracefulness2 her favourite theme was ,italy1 on which she dwelt with childlike fondness4 ,speaking of ,naples1 its charming bay1 of the ,vesuvius1 and the lovely walk of ,santa ,lucia1 near the sea1 the tone of her voice became involuntarily more lively4 ,notwithstanding the tropical splendour1 and an ,imperial throne1 the ,princess seems to have a great longing for her native land4 ,alas6 even an imperial crown is no protection against the yearning for home6 ,during our stay here1 the anniversary came round of the birth of our gracious ,emperor1 which was celebrated in the most festive manner4 ,from early dawn the frigate appeared decked out in her gayest flags1 which was similarly responded to by the ,english and ,french ships of war in the harbour4 ,at #h ,a4,m41 with the customary salutes of the ensign1 a salute of twenty-one guns was fired1 as also at mid-day and sunset4 ,at #aa ,a4,m41 the crew were paraded and divine service was performed1 to which our resident envoy and his family were invited1 together with the acting ,consul-,general1 the captain of an ,austrian vessel1 and a few ,austrians who happened to be at that time in ,rio4 ,after service1 the foreign guests and several officers of the staff were entertained by the commodore at breakfast4 ,in the evening there was a banquet at the hotel of the envoy1 at which were present several notabilities of the empire of ,brazil1 among others1 ,viscount ,maranguap1 minister of foreign affairs1 and the ,senator ,viscount de ,uruguay4 ,in the garden of the club the frigate's band of music played chiefly ,german and ,austrian pieces1 which awoke in the bosoms of many the most tender recollections4 ,the frequent arrival of men of war in the bay of ,rio gives rise to an almost continual firing2 each vessel entering fires a royal salute1 which is answered by the fortress and the other ships of war in the harbour4 ,during our stay we discharged not less than #dcb salvos1 while all the men of war together fired at least #aejj salvos1 thus making1 within three weeks1 about #ebej rounds of gunpowder1 used merely in salutes4 ,the #cast of ,august had been fixed as the date of our departure4 ,during the latter days of our stay1 there had been frequent collations on board to make some return to those who had shown us attention4 ,several of the sick1 one midshipman and two sailors1 had to be left behind in hospital1 where they received the most careful treatment1 while ,dr4 ,av ,robert ,lallemant1 who1 by the kind recommendation of ,humboldt1 had been permitted by the ,archduke to accompany the ,expedition with the rank of surgeon of corvette1 for the purpose of prosecuting his studies of yellow fever1 was1 at his own request1 put ashore at ,rio1 whence he afterwards undertook the journey through ,southern ,brazil already alluded to4 ,the night previous1 three sailors had deserted from a boat sent on shore to bring back some officers4 ,the system of kidnapping1 as is well known1 flourishes in ,rio1 and many a ship is said to have lost1 in this way1 from thirty to forty men4 ,the crimps1 who make their living by this traffic in man1 entice young and robust sailors to desert by means of all imaginable allurements and promises1 making advances in money1 and leading them into a dissolute life1 in order that1 when afterwards they find themselves in a desperate state1 and without resources1 they may be sold by the scoundrels to the captains of vessels1 as sailors1 or1 what is worse1 as white slaves1 to the planters in the interior4 ,this abominable trade is said to be carried on1 on a great scale1 by an ,italian1 in ,catumb ,grande1 and though the ,brazilian police is perfectly cognizant of the haunts of the fellow1 yet it seems not to be powerful enough to put a stop to the nuisance4 ,these incidents did not1 however1 interfere with our departure at the specified hour1 when we were towed out by the tug steamer ,perseverancia1 which we had hired for #be4 ,almost every large ship on leaving ,rio is towed clear of the bay1 so as to avoid having to tack between the islands1 or perhaps have to anchor1 so that the tug1 which belongs to a private individual1 and accompanied us eastward as far as the island of ,razza1 must be a source of considerable profit4 ,on #cast ,august1 at six ,a4,m41 we bade farewell to the splendid harbour of ,rio4 ,we had fortunately reached ,rio after the visit of the yellow fever1 but the almost continual rainy weather had spoiled many an excursion1 and deprived us of the opportunity of more closely examining the environs of the city4 ,nor were we more successful in making ourselves at home here1 notwithstanding the kind reception with which we were favoured by the ,government and some private individuals4 ,there is1 in short1 a great want of sociability1 and we may add1 almost utter indifference to scientific pursuits1 which indeed appeal in vain to the great majority of the ,brazilian population4 ,of course there are numerous and agreeable exceptions2 but slavery1 the mixture of races1 the egotism and indolence of the wealthier classes1 are all reasons why a ,european1 just arrived1 cannot feel himself comfortable4 ,the white ,brazilians bear1 in some respects1 a strong resemblance to the ,italians1 but they are deficient in their pleasing1 insinuating demeanour1 in their cheerful humour1 quickness of perception1 and lively imagination4 ,they occupy a lower scale in social culture1 without depth of thought or feeling1 and seem almost incapable of persevering activity4 ,this perceptible deficiency of hearty1 energetic temperament1 in addition to the confused intermingling of other foreign nations1 which seem to regard the country as booty1 to be abandoned so soon as success has crowned their labours1 imparts to each new arrival a feeling of depression1 which1 so far from being weakened1 is yet more keenly felt by those who have lived some time in the country1 so that not merely among foreigners recently arrived1 but with those also who have spent years at ,rio1 the desire to leave these shores becomes rather increased than diminished by a longer acquaintance4 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,,iii4--,,from ,,rio ,,di ,,janeiro ,,to ,,the ,,cape ,,of ,,good ,,hope4 ,at nine ,a4,m41 we cast off from the tug1 not far from the little island of ,razza1 with its lighthouse1 and spread our sails to the breeze1 which gradually freshened1 but blew from the ,n4,e41 which was foul for our course4 ,however1 we could still derive some advantage from even this as it was our intention to steer southerly from ,rio1 so as to be able to make almost exclusively a great circle course to the ,cape of ,good ,hope1 after we should have got further south than the ,antarctic limit of the ,s4,e4 trades4 ,the near termination of the winter quarter in this southern hemisphere1 the approximation of the sun towards the south pole1 and the consequent tendency of the zones of wind and currents of air to pursue the same direction1 gave us reason to hope1 that when approaching the limits of the trades1 we should find a change of wind1 which should shorten the voyage1 or at all events keep us clear of storms4 ,in the open ocean1 where there are no hills or extraordinary conformations of land to break the uniformity of the earth's surface1 and where the expanse of water is unbroken by any extensive group of islands1 the disturbances in the atmospheric belt must necessarily be much less strongly marked than where continents are interposed1 or in the narrow seas4 ,the winds themselves1 under such circumstances1 display even in their shifts a certain amount of regularity1 which is usually dependent upon the universal laws of nature4 ,once any one is so fortunate as to comprehend the latter in all their extent1 so as to be cognisant of their results1 it becomes a mere question of the study of local conditions in order to be able to declare how these universal laws operate1 and to elucidate by the most simple explanations many of the phenomena of nature that have till now baffled science4 ,thus1 when a wind hitherto steady shifts its direction1 there must necessarily be1 certain active causes for its doing so2 if these causes perpetually recur in well-marked periodical intervals1 the change of the wind must follow a definite law4 ,under certain circumstances the direction of the wind is well-defined2 as1 for instance1 at certain seasons in the open ocean it remains always the same1 or changes with a certain regularity1 whence it becomes apparent that the causes must remain unchanging1 and the recurrence of the phenomenon must accordingly admit of explanation4 ,we know1 for example1 that in the case of hurricanes--those most terrific exemplifications of the tendency of the atmosphere to move in circles--the wind does not blow in straight lines1 but rather in curves described round a central point1 which again is not immovable1 but has a regular progression along a definite curve4 ,in that curved plane1 however1 which has been termed a cyclone1 the wind always blows in one and the same direction1 and in the ,northern ,hemisphere runs counter to the motion of a watch-hand1 while in the ,southern ,hemisphere it1 on the contrary1 follows that motion4 ,these facts once granted as accounting for such phenomena1 it follows as a natural consequence of the general principles laid down1 that they hold good in minor cases1 and must remain of the same efficacy1 whether it be a hurricane or a dust-whirl which may be under consideration4 ,so1 too1 in conformity with those laws1 light winds may be found subject to a variation in direction of a similar nature1 such as may not perhaps be fully exemplified in every case1 but simply serve to indicate the tendency of the wind to follow the same general direction as the hurricanes themselves4 ,the importance of ascertaining such curvilinearity in the direction of the winds will be especially manifest at the limits within which the regular winds prevail1 and when they must necessarily become intermingled with other regular currents of the atmosphere4 ,accordingly1 as we neared the limit of the ,s4,e4 ,trades1 which always extend somewhat further south1 as the sun's southern declination increases1 we had to traverse regions where necessarily we encountered variable winds1 owing to the increased area of the ,trades4 ,there are also found occasional spots at which a more rarefied atmosphere seems to fill the surrounding space1 when there is seen a similar process to that in the case of hurricanes1 first visible perhaps in the higher strata1 but afterwards extending to those which are lower4 ,the winds1 then1 shifted with much regularity1 and with them the atmospheric pressure1 just as in the case of cyclones1 except that neither the wind nor the sea ever presented the characteristics of a tempest4 ,the wind1 which began to blow from the ,north-,east1 drew gradually to ,north1 thence ,west and ,south1 and returned to ,s4,e41 after short intervals of calm4 ,we could thus perceive1 on referring to the ship's log1 that the entire cycle was completed in five or six days2 so that it became quite possible1 by examining the central direction of the daily variation1 to foretell the wind which must be blowing twelve hours later1 when1 upon taking into consideration the path described by such central direction from day to day1 it appeared that the wind described very nearly a parabolic curve4 ,even the aspect of the heavens1 and the state of the weather1 were only one degree less regular in their alternations than the hurricanes4 ,with the ,s4,e4 wind1 the sky was bright1 but as soon as it began to veer round1 towards afternoon1 a few white belts of cirrhous clouds began to appear in the western heavens1 constituting a well-marked division of the vault of the sky from one side quite to the other4 ,as it drew still further round1 and neared the line of centres1 the weather grew foul1 a driving scud covered the heavens1 and a succession of splendid rainbows were seen1 till the ship had reached the nearest spot to the storm-centre when there were sharp squalls of wind1 accompanied by heavy showers of rain4 ,the lower strata of clouds1 mere vapour1 drove before the wind1 while those above moved in a directly contrary direction1 generally that of the forthcoming wind4 ,the atmospheric pressure1 which at first would be considerable1 gradually decreased as we approached the central line2 as we drew away from that centre the barometer rose again1 the weather improved1 and the sky under the influence of southerly winds once more cleared4 ,unfortunately it is not practicable with a single ship to ascertain whether the veering of the wind follows an exact curve1 as we can only say what is the direction at the spot where the observation has been made1 and it is impossible to determine what it may be at other points4 ,but it is at all events certain that the shifts of wind are amenable to the same general laws as hurricanes4 ,a number of ships sent out for the special purpose of this branch of investigation1 could render immense services to science and navigation1 and achieve most interesting results4 ,we availed ourselves of these general laws to traverse the ocean as speedily as possible1 in order to reach early our next anchorage1 and in so doing we experienced altogether three well-marked cycles of wind at short intervals4 ,we cannot afford space to prosecute all the interesting consequences that result from these phenomena of nature1 such investigations being more properly reserved for the meteorological section of the scientific portion of this work4 ,here1 however1 the facilities for observation of a sea-faring life have been directed towards an object of inquiry1 which must prove of immense utility in navigation and commerce4 ,and1 perhaps1 even landsmen may not find it uninteresting1 that even that proverbially fickle element1 air1 obeys certain fixed laws1 a more accurate acquaintance with which must be of the utmost importance to the denizen of terra firma1 as well as those that go down to the sea in ships1 that do business in great waters4 ,on this passage from the ,american to the ,african coasts1 we were continually accompanied by our winged friends1 the sea-birds1 which1 notwithstanding the unkind treatment they received at the hands of the zoological sportsmen1 followed us with the utmost pertinacity1 probably attracted by the numerous fragments of provisions thrown overboard4 ,the ,cape pigeons 7,procellaria sp471 those prettily-marked sea-birds1 about the size of doves1 the albatrosses1 7,diomedea sp47 the largest of the ocean feathered tribe1 with their quiet majestic flight1 stormy petrels of all sorts and sizes1 from the smallest swallow to the largest of its kind2 all these winged inhabitants of the sea's surface followed the frigate in motley groups1 and seemed never to weary in their active search for food4 ,sometimes they alighted1 rested on the surface of the water1 and were left far behind2 but they collected again with great rapidity as soon as anything eatable appeared1 and overtook the frigate in a swift flight from the remotest point of the horizon4 ,this singular attachment to ships very probably arises from their being accustomed to follow whalers1 from which such a large quantity of garbage is thrown overboard1 very much affected by these arial parasites1 whence they learn to expect from all vessels their favourite food4 ,they possess a remarkable capacity for remembering the exact time when they are likely to receive a large quantity of eatables from on board4 ,every day1 about noon1 the vicinity of the ship became animated1 and towards one o'clock1 after the crew had finished dinner1 these lively creatures were close behind1 and even fought for the pieces of tow with which the coppers had been cleansed4 ,the boldest amongst them was the ,cape pigeon1 which pounced1 with the utmost avidity1 upon the dainty morsels thrown overboard1 raising a loud scream1 swimming round its prey1 diving for sinking fragments1 or snatching from each other those they had secured4 ,then came the black and brown-spotted and white albatrosses4 ,as soon as one of these colossal birds appeared on the scene of strife1 the uproar of the screaming pigeons at once became still2 they kept themselves at a respectful distance from the voracious albatross1 which quietly consumed its lion's share4 ,in a few moments1 yet greater numbers of these assembled1 of which the black ones 7,phoebetria fuliginosa71 like the large petrels1 are extremely shy1 and rarely approach the ship within gun-shot4 ,the other large-sized petrels acted similarly1 the brown spectacled-petrel1 so named from two singular-looking black rings round the eyes1 being the most numerous4 ,along with these were several small ,mother ,carey's ,chickens1 and flights of other winged creatures swarming over the sea4 ,the darker the sky1 the more agitated the sea1 the more actively do the ,cape pigeons tumble and toss behind the ship2 it appears that in rough stormy weather they see less distinctly and find food with difficulty1 in consequence of which they are in a famished state4 ,only under these circumstances1 and when the ship is moving slowly1 can they be caught with a line4 ,to angle for birds may appear rather odd to the reader1 and yet it is common enough in the ,southern ,ocean1 amusing the sailor1 and providing the zoologist with means of obtaining these birds alive4 ,for this purpose1 however1 circumstances must be comparatively favourable2 that is to say1 the weather must be rough1 the sea agitated1 and the ship making but little headway4 ,when the sky is serene1 and the sea calm1 even the ,cape pigeons do not think it worth their while to throw a glance at the bait2 and if the ship is moving fast1 they have not speed enough to catch it1 because they only swim1 and the ship outspeeds them4 ,the line1 moreover1 must be of tolerable length1 so as1 in the event of any bird evincing a desire to snap1 to allow as much to be paid out as is necessary to leave the bait precisely in the same spot1 without towing it through the water4 ,it sometimes also occurs1 particularly after sunset1 that these birds1 continually following in the wake of the ship1 do not see the line1 strike against it1 and entangle themselves so that they may be easily drawn on board4 ,the scream of the storm-pigeon when caught1 makes it betray its fate even before those on board have an idea that it has been captured4 ,for the albatross1 it is of course necessary to use a stronger hook1 which it is best to attach to a copper wire1 because this being thinner than line1 is not so readily perceived4 ,in order that the whole apparatus may swim on the surface of the water1 a few cork floats are also made fast4 ,when an albatross has hooked itself1 the full strength of a man is requisite to draw it on board1 for the bird1 in its despair1 dives and keeps its wings spread under water1 so that the resistance is very considerable1 and frequently even the strongest lines are broken4 ,this cannot be wondered at when their size is considered1 as they measure from #aj to #ad feet across the extended wings1 while their weight amounts to from #aj to #ah lbs4 ,arrived on deck1 none of these sea-birds are able to fly away2 they move very clumsily on their webbed feet1 and can only rise after a slanting spring1 which1 however1 they cannot accomplish on firm ground2 if in the water these birds want to rise into the air whilst swimming1 they flutter their outspread wings for a little1 and use their webbed feet in a kind of rowing motion1 in order to acquire the requisite impetus4 ,the albatross defends itself with its bill1 which is often four to five inches long1 and care must be taken to avoid being wounded in catching them4 ,we also remarked that the ,cape pigeons1 in their rage at being captured1 vomited up a slimy greasy substance4 ,the latter bird was of course new to us1 and afforded us much amusement4 ,many were knocked over with the fowling-piece1 especially when1 in their inquisitiveness1 they came too near the boats1 which1 as often as our rate of progress admitted1 were launched with the view of adding to our collection of objects of natural history4 ,in shooting an albatross large shot must be used1 as1 at a distance of #ae or #bj feet1 small shot do not penetrate the feathers and the down of the bird4 ,what is most remarkable as regards these birds is the numerous parasites that live upon their bodies4 ,it is most extraordinary how certain of these birds 7as for instance1 the ,puffins and ,procellari7 are infested by insects1 their plumage sometimes swarming with small specimens of ,crustace4 ,on the #bfth of ,september1 the famous ,table ,mountain of the ,cape was visible1 after we had1 the evening previous1 at a distance of fourteen miles1 sighted the lighthouse of ,table ,bay4 ,the twenty-six days of our voyage hither had flown quickly past1 and we were still able vividly to recall the impressions made by ,brazil1 and the scenes we had gone through in mid-ocean1 as the southernmost point of ,africa came in sight with its characteristic hills1 and our eyes and our thoughts were directed to another quarter of the globe4 ,on the one hand1 excited with the prospect of new scenery1 and on the other1 anxious to complete our elaborate observations upon ,brazil1 so as to be able to send them home from the ,cape1 we found ourselves in a frame of mind which kept us alternately hard at the desk1 or drove us on deck to admire the remarkable outline of ,cape ,colony4 ,we did not1 at the present season1 think it advisable to run right into the bay1 so as to anchor near ,cape ,town1 but resolved to double the ,cape1 and proceed to ,simon's ,bay1 the usual anchorage for ships-of-war4 ,we were1 however1 sadly disappointed in the hope of soon reaching it1 as the south-east wind freshened so much that on the #bgth it had become a gale1 which forced us out to sea again4 ,the world-known swell off the ,cape began under the ever-increasing wind to run high1 and we were soon involved in one of those famous ,cape storms which justified the ,portuguese in calling the promontory of ,south ,africa1 ,cabo ,tormentoso1 or the ,cape of ,storm4#ea ,footnote #ea3 ,through such mad seas the daring ,gama fought1 ,incessant toiling round the stormy ,cape4 7,lord ,strangford's ,camoens47 ,the wind and spray roared and lashed through the rigging3 higher and higher rose the huge mountains of water1 with their white crests1 that tossed the ship like a plaything from side to side4 ,the waves foamed in through the port-holes on the gun-deck1 while masts1 cordage1 timbers1 every part of the ship groaned and creaked1 a perfect medley of sights and sounds1 including woful destruction of crockery1 and the heavy rolling of erratic cannon-shot that had broken loose from the rack1 and were rushing about the deck--above all which was heard the shrill whistle of the pipe of the boatswain's mate4 ,the scene fairly baffled all powers of description1 and must have been eminently impressive for those who for the first time experienced what is meant by a gale at sea1 especially at night1 when the moon1 struggling through the flying vapours1 lit up the appalling scene with a livid supernatural tint4 ,on the afternoon of the #bhth the gale reached its highest point1 and raged fearfully for some hours4 ,the frigate proved herself1 in this turbulence of the waters1 to be thoroughly seaworthy4 ,at the same time the sun shone brilliantly1 the sky was clear and beautiful1 and only here and there some feathery clouds were to be seen4 ,there was a curious sense of dualism in this serenity of the sky1 in contrast with the fury and agitation of the waves4 ,gradually the wind chopped round towards the east1 which gave some hope that the gale would abate1 but1 nevertheless1 the ship was tossed about worse than ever4 ,the waves1 like gigantic ridges1 mounted1 according to measurement1 to the height of from #cj to #ce feet above the mean level of the sea1 and occasioned that terrible rolling of the ship1 and those fearful lurches1 which1 once experienced1 are not readily forgotten4 ,hitherto the altitude of a wave has been generally measured merely by the eye1 so that the result depended too much on the accuracy of individual observation to admit of its being exactly ascertained2 and it is for this reason that the statements relative to the maximum height of the ocean wave are so various that they cannot be considered reliable1 for whilst some observers estimate them to be from #fj to #gj feet1 others reckon them only at from #cj to #dj feet4 ,on board the ,novara the following method of admeasurement was adopted3 we first determined1 by a chronometer1 the time that a wave takes to pass from one end of the ship to the other1 whereby the velocity of the progressive motion of the wave could be calculated in relation to the ship's course and speed1 regard being had to the direction and velocity of the ship against it4 ,with this velocity ascertained1 we were in a position to determine and fix the average distance between two consecutive waves4 ,lastly1 the height of the wave was ascertained from the angle at which the frigate rose and fell in the line of its keel1 by the influence of each successive wave and by means of the ascertained distance from the trough of the sea to the crest of the wave4 ,though this method1 likewise1 has many difficulties and deficiencies1 yet it appears well suited to make correct comparisons between the different waves2 and1 under certain favourable conditions1 it yields so accurate a result1 that at any rate it is to be preferred to mere guess-work1 besides that the experiment itself is susceptible of many improvements4 ,it seems safe to assume that waves scarcely ever attain an elevation of more than #dj or #de feet4 ,the gale had driven us a long distance out1 and only after great trouble did we again near the land4 ,on the #ast of ,october the ,cape came once more in sight2 we tacked1 in order to get into the wide gulf termed ,false ,bay1 by which in some respects the peninsula of the ,cape is formed1 being separated only by a low sandy plain from the ,atlantic4 ,whittle's rock renders tacking in its neighbourhood in so far more difficult1 as the existing charts of the bay are not sufficiently exact to be implicitly relied on4 ,buoys have often been fixed in that quarter1 but every new gale carried them away again2 so that the position of the rock is not indicated4 ,an ,english pilot now came on board1 who brought papers1 and intelligence that a number of letters were waiting for us4 ,our impatience became stronger when towards evening the light breeze entirely ceased1 and we thereby were forced to bring up at a distance of a mile and a half from the actual anchorage4 ,about the same time an officer arrived from the ,british line-of-battle-ship ,boscawen1 under the flag of ,rear-,admiral ,grey1 in order to serve as a guide should no pilot have boarded us4 ,on the #bnd of ,october1 at #g ,a4,m41 the anchor was let go in ,simon's ,bay1 a spacious but gloomy-looking sheet of water4 ,here ships ride much more secure than in ,table ,bay1 from which1 in a stiff westerly or north-westerly breeze1 vessels are often forced to run out to sea to avoid being driven on shore4 ,the communication with the land is thus sometimes interrupted for days4 ,from ,simon's ,bay to ,table ,bay1 round the ,cape the distance is forty miles1 whilst by land the journey to the capital of the colony is1 with good horses1 performed in three hours4 ,illustration3 ,,cabo ,,tormentoso4 ,illustration3 ,,cape ,,town4 ,,vi4 ,cape of ,good ,hope4 ,,stay ,,from #b,,nd ,,to #bf,,th ,,october1 #aheg4 ,contrasts of scenery and seasons at ,cape ,colony4 ,ramble through ,simon's ,town4--,malay ,population4--,the ,toad-fish1 or ,sea-devil4--,rondebosch and its delightful scenery4--,cape ,town4--,influence of the ,english element4--,scientific and other ,institutions4--,botanical ,gardens4--,useful plants4--,foreign ,emigration4--,a ,caffre prophet and the consequences of his prophecies4--,caffre prisoners in the ,armstrong ,battery4--,five young ,caffres take service as sailors on board the ,novara4-- ,trip into the interior4--,stellenbosch4--,paarl4--,wor cester4-- ,brandvalley4--,the ,mission of ,moravian ,brethren at ,genaadendal4--,masticatories and intoxicating substances used by the ,hottentots4--,caledon4--,somerset ,west4--,zandvliet4--,tomb of a ,malay ,prophet4--,horse ,sickness4--,tsetse-fly4--,vineyards of ,constantia4--,fte champtre in honour of the ,novara4-- ,excursion to the actual ,cape of ,good ,hope4--,departure4--,a life saved4--,experiments with ,brook's deep-sea sounding apparatus4-- ,arrival at the ,island of ,st4 ,paul in the ,south ,indian ,ocean4 ,there can scarcely be a landscape more gloomy and desolate than the sterile1 rocky mountains1 and white sandy plains1 which1 like snow-fields1 inclose ,simon's ,bay4 ,coming from the charming coast of ,brazil1 with its luxuriant verdure1 the contrast becomes doubly unpleasing4 ,a narrow green strip of land1 running along from a small fort1 forms a refreshing sight and a resting point for the eye fatigued with looking at these grim masses of stone4 ,the traveller who merely touches at ,simon's ,bay without pushing into the interior1 or who visits the ,cape in the winter of the southern hemisphere 7from ,april to ,september71 can scarcely form an idea of the voluptuous loveliness which reigns during spring and summer in the interior of the colony1 and will regard as fictitious those brilliant descriptions of its natural beauties1 related by travellers who have been fortunate enough to visit this point of ,south ,africa at those genial seasons4 ,had we left the ,cape without seeing anything else than the melancholy neighbourhood of ,false ,bay and the dull little settlement of ,simon's ,town1 on its left bank1 we should have carried away very different impressions and ideas to those entertained after having during spring passed some weeks in the delightful interior1 and obtained at the same time an insight into the social condition of the colony4 ,on the very day that we cast anchor in the bay1 we took a stroll 7our first footfall upon the soil of ,africa7 through ,simon's ,town1 which consists of a single street of about forty clean1 neat1 and tidy-looking houses1 straggling along the shore4 ,the principal buildings are the ,arsenal1 the residence of the admiral of the station1 five churches 7one of which belongs to ,roman ,catholics71 and two tolerably large hotels4 ,it is hardly possible to conceive any town occupying a more dreary dismal site1 with the exception1 perhaps1 of some of the ,peruvian settlements on the west coast of ,south ,america4 ,while the eye1 below this row of houses1 beholds nothing but granite rocks thickly strewn with shells1 the main street is overhung by steep sandstone rocks1 which1 despite the marvellous richness of the blooming flowers1 that well repay the researches of the naturalist1 have a naked gloomy aspect1 viewed from a distance1 and are environed right and left by waste patches of white sand4 ,the favourite walks of this small place seem to be along the shore1 or on the road to ,cape ,town1 into the soft sand of which the foot of the traveller is continually sinking4 ,a number of ladies and gentlemen whom we met walking appeared to be somewhat surprised at the unusual appearance of an ,austrian man-of-war1 the flag of which was gaily fluttering in the gloomy bay4 ,the residents in ,simon's ,town1 amounting to about #hjj souls1 are mostly ,malays1 descendants of those numerous compulsory emigrants1 who1 during the period of ,dutch ascendency at the ,cape1 had been transported from ,java and other islands of the ,indian ,archipelago1 owing to the want of labour or for political causes4 ,for the ,dutch used to send to the ,cape ,colony1 as a place of banishment1 many wealthy and influential ,malay families1 by whom the first germs of ,mohammedanism were introduced into ,south ,africa4 ,it would even seem that the religious opinions of the ,malay population exercise some influence on the habits of the ,christian settlers of ,simon's ,town1 as no butcher1 for instance1 would venture to kill and sell pigs for fear of giving offence to his ,mohammedan customers4 ,on a fine spring morning we started in a handsome vehicle from ,simon's ,bay to ,cape ,town4 ,the road runs close along the seashore1 which1 seen from a distance1 apparently consists of nothing but sand and rock1 but1 on more near acquaintance1 exhibits at various points delightful nooks decked with most beautiful flowers4 ,everything indicated1 by its glorious blooming garment1 the bursting forth of spring4 ,one hour's ride led us to a neat little fishing hamlet where an immense number of fish were hanging up to dry in the sun4 ,the bones of whales are used by the inhabitants for all sorts of purposes2 they fence their fields and gardens with the ribs1 build walls with the vertebr1 make steps and stairs of the shoulder bones1 and use the large jaw-bones as arches at the entrances of their huts4 ,one of the owners of this fishing station was kind enough to offer us1 as a particular dainty1 a piece of flesh cut from the jaw of a whale and boiled in fat2 but we were not exactly of the same opinion after having1 from curiosity1 tasted a few mouthfuls4 ,the bay is very rich in the snook-fish 7,thyrsites ,atun71 of which several hundred tons are pickled here annually and sent to the ,mauritius4 ,another fish caught here is said to be extremely injurious to health1 and even to endanger life--the small toadfish 7,tetraodon ,honkenyi71 which exists in shoals1 and may easily be caught with a line4 ,one of the harbour regulations consists of a special paragraph warning seamen against using this poisonous sea-devil4 ,foreign sailors who have eaten of it have died a few minutes after4 ,on leaving this fishing station the road1 leaving the coast1 proceeds in a straight line over the plain which unites the ,cape with the continent4 ,the mountains recede1 and the eye of the traveller gazes1 charmed and surprised1 on the mountain range of the peninsula1 the celebrated ,table and ,devil's ,mountains4 ,the plain1 which1 during the dry season1 is nothing but an arid desert1 was now seen in its fullest beauty1 like a flowery carpet1 on which innumerable blossoms of varied hues and forms were interwoven4 ,on the left lie the renowned vineyards of ,constantia1 and to the right stands what is called ,halfway-house1 the property of a native of ,wrtemberg who1 some twenty years before1 came to the ,cape a poor emigrant1 and is now a wealthy and respected man1 known far and wide1 holding several official appointments1 and showing himself a warm patron of his ,german countrymen4 ,being a zealous sportsman1 and intimately acquainted with the locality1 ,mr4 ,rathfelder was of great service to our zoologists1 who took up their residence at this place4 ,from the ,halfway-house to ,cape ,town the character of the landscape completely changes4 ,the road leads through a park-like country2 charming wood plantations1 pines and oaks1 stretch on either hand to the extreme limits of an undulating plain1 intersected by long shady paths1 the vistas terminating with elegant villas built in the ,dutch or ,english style4 ,here are ,cape waggons1 drawn by ten to twenty oxen1 side by side with elegant two or four-horse carriages and densely-packed omnibuses1 such as one may see in ,cheapside4 ,we have now arrived in the charming ,rondebosch1 a village that might well aspire to the dignity of a town1 chiefly inhabited as a summer residence by the wealthier inhabitants of ,cape ,town4 ,the impression made by this beautiful road will never be obliterated from the memory of any one who has ever ridden over it in the spring4 ,we were as much delighted by the sight of this smiling and verdant landscape as we had been depressed by the sandy plains of ,simon's ,bay4 ,there1 extended in charming variety before the fascinated eye1 lay ,table ,bay with its ships1 ,cape ,town1 and the gigantic rocky wall of the ,table ,mountain resting on its granite base1 and rising nearly perpendicular to an altitude of #cejj feet1 together with the ,lion's ,head and the ,devil's ,peak4 ,the distant background on the other side of the plain is bounded by the precipitous face of high1 rugged1 and broken mountain walls1 the summits of which were covered with snow4 ,convenient and comfortable quarters were found in the ,freemasons' ,hotel1 situated in the ,parade1 a large square planted with pines4 ,here1 to our surprise1 we met an ,austrian1 attending as waiter1 who had been driven by the wild waves of the late revolution into the wide world1 until he met with a peaceful existence at the ,cape of ,storms6 ,favoured by introductions to the most eminent men of science1 who received us in the most friendly way1 we succeeded1 in the course of a few weeks1 in acquiring rich and valuable scientific collections1 and forming important connections for the future supply of our museums4 ,a most cordial reception was accorded us by ,mr4 ,julius ,mosenthal1 the ,austrian ,consul1 and the head of one of the leading mercantile firms of the colony4 ,in his hospitable house1 ,german music and ,german song made us entirely forget that we were sojourning thousands of miles from home at the southernmost point of ,africa4 ,cape ,town is oblong in plan1 with long wide streets1 intersecting at right angles4 ,it is destitute of imposing buildings2 a commercial place1 with pretty dwelling-houses1 built in the ,english style and comfortably furnished1 all of a light brown hue1 owing to the dust1 which1 in south-east or north-west winds1 envelopes the town in whirling clouds1 and may indeed be considered the only plague of this healthy delightful climate4 ,the ,english element1 which1 with the stereotyped customs of its life and its equitable laws1 possesses1 wherever it obtains a footing1 so powerful an influence1 has almost entirely superseded the ,dutch1 which continues to exist only in the lonely farmhouses far in the interior4 ,there is scarcely anything remaining to indicate that ,cape ,town was founded by the ,dutch2 and were it not for the yellow ,malay faces1 with their gaudy head-coverings or umbrella-shaped straw hats1 and the tawny mestizoes1 who remind us of the aboriginal inhabitants1 and give a completely foreign colouring1 one might easily fancy one's self to be in an old ,english provincial town4 ,generally speaking1 any one arriving here with preconceived notions of finding himself amongst ,hottentots and ,bushmen1 or in a state of society differing materially from that of ,europe1 will soon discover that he has been entirely mistaken4 ,the aborigines whom ,jan van ,riebeck found1 when1 with three ,dutch ships1 he landed in #afeb at ,table ,bay1 and in the name of the ,dutch ,east ,india ,company established a settlement1 have now almost entirely disappeared from the capital4 ,if any one desires to see a veritable ,hottentot or ,bushman1 he must undertake a troublesome journey1 of weeks' duration1 into the inhospitable interior4 ,in ,cape ,town this singular race is only now and then to be met with in prisons or hospitals1 and even then of a mixed breed4 ,the colony has now a population of #bhj1jjj white and coloured inhabitants1 of whom about #cj1jjj live in ,cape ,town2 half of these are whites1 and probably not more than #ajjj form the higher and influential class4 ,there can be no doubt that when1 in #ahae1 the ,english took possession of the ,cape1 a firm foundation had been laid already by the ,dutch #aej years before2 but the real progress of the country1 and the development of its natural resources1 date only from the commencement of ,british rule1 by which those shackles were thrown off with which the narrow-minded colonial policy of the ,dutch had fettered this settlement1 like all others that owned their sway4 ,the ,cape ,colony since #ahej has possessed a ,legislative ,council of #ae members1 and a ,house of ,assembly of #dj deputies4 ,the executive power rests in the hands of the ,governor-,general1 appointed by the ,british ,government4 ,all bills passed by this parliament require the royal assent before they become law4 ,it is impossible to speak in too high and eulogistic terms of ,sir ,george ,grey1 whom we had the happiness at the time of our stay to find in the important position of ,governor-,general of the colony4 ,owing to the wisdom with which ,sir ,george governed this important colony1 he gained for himself the love and admiration of the people to such an extent that1 after the expiration of the regularly fixed period of his office as ,governor1 they petitioned the ,queen of ,england for his re-appointment4 ,sir ,george is not only an able statesman1 but also a sound scholar1 possessing a most complete collection of books and manuscripts on the ,australian1 ,polynesian and ,african languages1 and he is a most zealous patron of the numerous scientific institutions of the colony4 ,the astronomical observatory1 under the superintendence of ,mr4 ,maclear1 has preserved the celebrity which it attained by the great work on the constellations of the southern hemisphere1 the materials for which were collected by ,sir ,john ,herschel during his residence here some twenty years since4 ,there is now a transit instrument1 which in accuracy excels even that of the ,observatory at ,greenwich1 and which is said to have cost upwards of #bjjj4 ,the ,south ,african ,museum1 containing collections of natural history1 is now under the superintendence of ,mr4 ,l4 ,layard 7brother of the celebrated investigator of ,nineveh74 ,this institution1 as well as the ,south ,african public library1 the literary1 scientific1 and mechanics' institutions1 besides nearly fifty other establishments and societies for religious1 benevolent and industrial purposes1 owe their foundation and flourishing condition to the public spirit and the charitable disposition of the inhabitants of the colony4 ,in #fi schools scattered over its surface1 upwards of #ah1jjj pupils are educated according to a system introduced in #ahda by ,sir ,john ,herschel4 ,the ,botanical ,gardens1 likewise founded and kept up by private subscription1 are not only a most agreeable resort1 but also afford much instruction1 arising from the many interesting and useful plants gathered here from all quarters of the world4 ,to those which are adapted for cultivation in the sandy plains of the ,cape1 great attention is devoted4 ,some of them have been found available in forming as it were vegetable walls of protection against the inroads of the sand1 so destructive to all cultivation4 ,as particularly serviceable for this purpose1 were mentioned to us ,fabricia variegata1 a sea-shore shrub of from #f to #aj feet high2 ,protea myrtifera2 the so-called ,hottentot fig3 ,mesembryanthemum edulis2 and the ,cape wax-myrtle ,myricacordifolia2--all these are found to thrive in the sand without cultivation1 put a stop to its ravages1 and in some respects may be considered as the pioneers of all other plants1 which do not thrive before the sandy soil has been prepared for them4 ,nay1 singularly enough1 some of these 7as for instance the ,hottentot fig71 become extinct as soon as others make their appearance1 just in the same way as the pioneer of civilization1 the backwoodsman in the west of the ,united ,states1 leaves his lonely blockhouse and hurries on as soon as overtaken by the peaceful settler4 ,the wax-berry shrub is also otherwise useful to the inhabitants2 from its berries a substance is prepared well suited for making candles4 ,according to a treatise on its culture two workmen are able to realize with a defecator daily #ajj lbs4 of white wax from the berries gathered by six persons4 ,the expense of labour1 c41 does not exceed #ahs4 per #ajj lbs41 or about #b;d4 per pound4 ,a large quantity of this vegetable substance has lately been sent to ,london1 where it is said to have met with a profitable market4 ,in the ,botanical ,garden of ,cape ,town we first met the two celebrated grasses known as ,holcus ,caffrorum and ,holcus saccharatum1 which1 by their usefulness in domestic life1 have more extensively1 and perhaps quickly1 than any other plant1 spread over the world4 ,we are indebted to the ,secretary of the ,board of ,public ,roads1 ,w4 ,de ,smidt1 ,esq41 for some seeds of these and other plants1 as also to ,mr4 ,mc,gibbon1 manager of the ,botanical ,gardens1 for similar favours4 ,considering the deficiency of labour1 and the large sections of fertile land as yet uncultivated in the colony1 ,sir ,george ,grey has directed great attention to the immigration of ,german emigrants of respectable characters1 of all trades1 as well as those attached to agricultural pursuits4 ,the plan adopted is an excellent and thoroughly honest one4 ,every emigrant1 if single1 obtains from the ,government thirty acres of good land1 and1 if married1 fifty2 five for each child above one1 and ten for every one exceeding ten years of age4 ,the rate of the land is to be fixed by ,government at a fair and reasonable sum1 and1 together with the passage-money1 to be paid four years after the location of the emigrant1 in five annual instalments4 ,from the moment the colonist steps on ,african ground he is an independent owner of land1 although not entitled to sell his property until his obligations to the ,government are liquidated4 ,the local parliament has granted a sum of #ej1jjj to promote emigration4 ,the ,cape probably offers to an industrious emigrant a more advantageous field for active energy than any other country in the world4 ,some of the ,german colonists1 the remnant of the ,british ,legion engaged in the ,crimean war1 who1 under ,general ,stuttersheim1 have settled in ,british ,caffraria1 are thriving prosperously4 ,they are the first pioneers of the ,german element in ,south ,africa1 and1 under the protection of a liberal and free government1 are increasing in number annually in consequence of the favourable reports which they transmit to their native country4 ,an emigration of a peculiar kind has unexpectedly taken place4 ,an impostor amongst the ,caffres1 who had assumed the character of a prophet1 pronounced the end of the world as imminent1 in consequence of which large numbers of them slaughtered their cattle and left their fields uncultivated4 ,being thus1 in a short time1 reduced to a state of perfect destitution1 not less than #ai1jjj of starving ,caffres sought help and an asylum in the ,british territory during the year #aheg1 and before its close the number had increased to #cj1jjj4 ,the colonial ,government1 out of consideration to the welfare of the colonists1 admitted only those ,caffres who bound themselves to act as servants1 for at least one year1 at reasonable wages1 and in order to prevent any danger arising from being congregated in too large numbers1 they were located by the ,government officers in various detached parts of the colony4 ,a very active society of philanthropists exists here1 under the title of ,the ,committee of ,emigration from ,holland4 ,its object is to bring over orphans and children of the poor from the overpopulated ,dutch provinces4 ,these useful emigrants are partly located as apprentices to farmers1 and remain until they are of age under the care of the ,committee4 ,during our stay a party of seventy boys and girls just arrived from ,holland assembled1 with their conductors1 in one of the large avenues of the ,botanical ,garden1 to be inspected by the ,governor-,general4 ,they all looked healthy and cheerful1 and seemed to have but little suffered from the fatigues of a long voyage4 ,when ,sir ,george ,grey made his appearance the children sang the ,english ,national ,anthem1 translated into ,dutch1 and afterwards the sweet1 affectionate song1 ,when the swallows homewards fly4 ,some young emigrants1 who1 two years ago1 had come under similar circumstances from ,holland1 had already obtained good situations1 and greeted their little compatriots most heartily4 ,being asked if they wished to return to ,holland1 they replied1 without the slightest hesitation1 in the negative1 declaring that they felt very happy where they were1--an announcement of course peculiarly agreeable to the new-comers4 ,an interesting opportunity was afforded to us of seeing a large number of ,caffres1 of both sexes1 who had been brought in as prisoners in consequence of having made predatory incursions into the ,british territory4 ,they all arrived in a state of nudity1 and in most wretched plight1 but were immediately provided with ,european clothes--blue striped shirts1 sheepskin trousers1 shoes1 a ,scotch cap1 and a blanket which served during the day as a cloak1 and at night as a covering4 ,their food was tolerably good1 but their abode during night1 in the damp casemates of the fort1 seemed not to agree with them1 and many were visibly in a diseased state of health4 ,nearly all were muscular1 and some were really specimens of manly beauty4 ,not one of them knew his age4 ,their only mode of calculating is by certain important events1 as by the death of a chieftain1 or the various wars with the ,english4 ,the superintendent1 ,mr4 ,walsh1 a very obliging ,irishman1 had the kindness to cause them to perform some of their national dances1 wild exercises which served the purpose of exciting their warlike spirit4 ,the first dance they performed they called ,ukutenga4 ,six handsomely-built dancers advanced1 whilst about thirty men closed in a circle around them1 and1 by their howlings and clapping of hands1 formed as it were a musical accompaniment to this singular performance4 ,the dancers sighed1 groaned1 hissed1 and made the most extravagant grimaces and contortions1 in order to arouse in themselves an artificial excitement4 ,one1 a lad twelve years of age1 engaged so earnestly in the sports1 that he perspired from his whole body4 ,there is another dance1 called ,tklombo1 performed in the presence of diseased persons whilst the quack doctor practises his deceptive remedies2 and a third1 called ,umduta1 which is only practised at weddings and other festive occasions4 ,this last seemed to be the most characteristic4 ,the semi-nude1 slender men hopped1 their arms clung together1 in ranks of six1 hissing with scorn1 occasionally uttering a cry1 then suddenly separating and marching one after the other in slow time1 in a circle1 uttering the most singular sounds4 ,now they bent forward the whole upper part of the body1 and then back again1 each of them making the same violent gestures as in the former dance1 and pronouncing some words to excite their companions1 such as1 ,be active6 ,be alert6 until they all trembled and became fearfully and feverishly excited4 ,the surrounding ,caffres1 who were at first mere spectators1 by degrees were seized with this singular dancing mania1 till at last the entire number1 as if stung by a tarantula1 lashed themselves into a wild and apparently ungovernable frenzy4 ,the great difference in the colour of the skin of these ,caffres was particularly striking1 as they evidently belong to one and the same race4 ,from the blackness of coal to bronze1 all tints and shades were observed1 and one of them1 called ,ngduba 7,sea-shell71 appeared to be even of a reddish yellow4 ,he belonged to the tribe of the ,fingoes1 and said that both his parents were of the same colour4 ,the governor permitted five young ,caffres to be engaged on board the ,novara1 with their own consent1 as apprentices1 and although they were prisoners sentenced for several years1 yet the ,government took every care to secure their welfare4 ,an agreement was signed to provide that their return1 should they desire it1 might be facilitated in every possible way4 ,faithful subjects could not be cared for with more anxiety than were these legally-sentenced ,caffre prisoners by the colonial ,government4 ,two of them went one day on shore1 during our stay at ,auckland1 in ,new ,zealand1 and never came back2 the other three made the whole voyage with the ,novara1 and are now sailors on board the imperial yacht ,fancy4 ,they1 of course1 understood1 at their embarkation1 only their own singular mother-tongue2 yet the chaplain of the expedition1 the ,rev4 ,e4 ,marochini1 after having made himself acquainted with their idiom1 succeeded in instructing these black youths1 by means of their own language1 in the doctrines of ,christianity1 and1 by degrees1 imparted some knowledge of the ,italian and ,german languages1 the happy results of these endeavours being a complete vocabulary and a small catechism in the ,caffre language1 which the reverend gentlemen composed during the voyage2 and such progress did his three pupils make1 that1 on our return to ,trieste1 they were so far prepared as to be fit for reception1 by baptism1 into the ,christian community4 ,in the house of correction there were a number of female ,caffres who had been made prisoners at the same time with their brothers and husbands1 some belonging to the family of chiefs4 ,one1 the sister of the chieftain ,sandilli1 was a handsome1 tall and slender woman1 with mild features and piercing small black eyes2 another1 by the name of ,mnovenkeli1 the sister of the chieftain ,mkoseni1 was an imposing and earnest-looking figure4 ,several of these women bore a long stripe tattooed on their breasts as an ornament4 ,several were deficient of a little finger of the left hand3 this mutilation is the effect of superstition1 as it often occurs that1 in case of the severe illness of the child1 the distressed mother causes a finger of her offspring to be cut off and sacrificed to the evil spirit1 in order that the rest of the body may be saved and permitted by the evil spirit to recover4 ,one of these young ,caffre women had her child wrapped up in a piece of linen tied to her back1 and endeavoured to lull it to sleep by continually moving the left elbow1 by which the baby was kept in a swinging motion1 and an effect was produced like that of a cradle4 ,various questions were put1 through an interpreter1 to several of these females1 who1 after their timidity was overcome1 answered with great readiness4 ,polygamy is said to prevail amongst them4 ,many women have from ten to twelve children4 ,the children are suckled sometimes from two to three years4 ,a numerous progeny is the pride of a family4 ,as a proof of the legitimacy of a child1 there is said to exist a kind of milk trial4 ,notwithstanding considerable trouble in endeavouring to procure information1 we were unable to obtain a very lucid idea of this singular experiment3 it consists in the father giving the infant1 in the bottom of his hand1 directly after its birth1 some cow's milk to drink1 and if the child refuses the draught it is considered illegitimate4 ,caffre women very rarely salute their husbands with a kiss1 except after a long separation1 and even then only on the cheek--never on the lips4 ,in the ethnographical part a detailed description will be presented of this most peculiar race1 of whom the ,bushmen are evidently only a decrepid branch4 ,here it will suffice to observe that a girl1 only sixteen years of age1 was noticed1 whose father was a degenerate ,hottentot1 and whose mother was a ,bushwoman4 ,the girl measured #d feet #f #a_/b inches1 and weighed #gelbs4 ,another ,bushwoman1 thirty years of age1 measured #d feet #i inches4 ,all the individuals we saw of this race were remarkable for their exceedingly small hands and feet4 ,one week of our stay at the ,cape was devoted to an excursion into the interior4 ,on the #ast ,october1 early in the morning1 we left ,cape ,town in a light two-wheeled vehicle1 drawn by four horses--a turn-out which certainly seemed better suited for a drive in ,hyde ,park than a journey1 however short1 in ,south ,africa3 for who would suppose that the principal roads on the southernmost point of the most unknown quarter of the globe1 are1 in consequence of ,english civilization and the geognostic nature of the ground1 in a better condition than most bye-roads in the civilized states of ,europe8 ,for a country where labour is so deficient and expensive1 such enormous works could only be executed by means of compulsory labour3 in this respect the high-roads and mountain passes of the ,cape afford the most evident proofs of how much more beneficially and usefully convicts may be employed in colonial works than in allowing them to rot within prison walls1 alike a burden to themselves and to society4 ,only ten years ago the streets of ,cape ,town looked at least highly dangerous1 and the steep rugged old roads1 which sometimes run parallel with the new ones1 evince very clearly the great difference between bygone days and the present1 as regards the internal communications of the colony4 ,the uncultivated state of the country formerly1 which indeed1 in some parts1 continues even yet to exist1 is the cause of the ancient custom having been retained of placing before every vehicle1 however lightly laden1 sixteen to twenty powerful oxen1 even on perfectly level roads4 ,all longer journeys into the interior are undertaken in heavy waggon-like vehicles1 exclusively drawn by oxen4 ,as a family is sometimes compelled to take up abode in such waggons for weeks together1 they are completely covered and provided with all possible conveniences2 indeed1 it is a sort of locomotive house4 ,the waggon1 which much resembles the goods-trucks used on ,european railways1 is at least #ah feet long1 and the entire length of the set-out1 including the oxen1 embraces not less than from #abj to #ahj feet4 ,it may readily be imagined how such a custom impedes speedy intercourse1 and how much more usefully a great part of the animal power might be employed4 ,on the excursion from ,cape ,town to ,stellenbosch1 a small place only ten miles distant1 we met more than #ajj waggons1 of which not one had less than ten1 and many double that number of oxen1 so that at least #aejj heads of cattle were employed in a work which might easily have been performed by a third part of the number4 ,the coachman was a ,malay1 and wore that singular screen-formed straw hat1 which so peculiarly distinguishes the male population of his race4 ,these men have the reputation of being particularly skilful drivers1 and thus form a considerable portion of the coachmen of the place4 ,the ,malay driver had an assistant by his side1 who seemed1 however1 chiefly to serve as ballast1 in order that our two-wheeled vehicle might not lose its equilibrium2 for the disconsolate condition of the horses rendered the fear of their running away quite superfluous4 ,our charioteer drove his horses1 which now and then were rather restive1 with so much adroitness1 that we arrived as early as nine o'clock in that charming settlement ,stellenbosch1 which ,wilkes1 the ,american ,commodore1 even in #ahci1 designated as the loveliest and most beautiful in the whole colony4 ,it has completely preserved the aspect of a little ,dutch town2 the streets are straight and wide1 adorned with avenues of oaks1 many centuries old2 the houses are extremely tidy and clean1 and are built in the genuine ,dutch style4 ,there is no trace of ,english influence perceptible4 ,its #djjj inhabitants mostly speak ,dutch1 and cultivate the vine1 grain1 and fruit4 ,no country town seen in the whole course of our long voyage made a deeper impression1 or left more pleasing recollections1 than ,stellenbosch4 ,the occasion of our visit was certainly of an uncommonly cheerful and festive character4 ,on the day of our arrival the ,governor was about to review a corps of volunteers1 raised in ,cape ,town and its neighbourhood1 to supply the place of the regular troops about to be dispatched to the ,indian battle-fields4 ,extraordinary enthusiasm and interest was manifested everywhere in the military movements4 ,thousands of visitors had assembled even from great distances to witness this novel national spectacle4 ,the ,governor had proclaimed the day as a general holiday2 all shops were closed2 the streets presented an extremely animated appearance1 and in front of every house was a crowd4 ,the ,austrian ,consul had been kind enough to favour us with a letter of introduction to one of the first families in the place2 but1 taking into consideration the general bustle and continual arrival of strangers1 we were much afraid of being1 at this moment1 very unwelcome guests1 as every nook and corner would already be occupied2 for in this colony visitors do not come1 as with us1 for a short time1 and without encumbrance1 but with waggons1 horses1 servants1 household and all1 regularly to settle down for an indefinite period4 ,our own party consisted of five persons provided with four horses1 and we were now1 for want of other lodgings1 about to claim the hospitality of ,mynheer ,van ,schultze4 ,a pretty1 youthful1 rosy-cheeked lady1 who appeared at the door1 took--not without some embarrassment--our letter of introduction1 and disappeared with it into the interior of the stately house4 ,we were requested to enter1 and were shown into a suite of very neat rooms1 and were received1 not merely with great politeness1 but with the heartiest welcome4 ,at ten o'clock we drove out with our hospitable friend1 ,mynheer ,van ,schultze1 to the review1 which took place on the common in the neighbourhood of the village4 ,the number of spectators was probably twenty times greater than that of the volunteers2 they had surrounded the ground with a wall of carriages1 on the tops of which women and children were grouped in every picturesque attitude4 ,the rifle volunteers marched1 with the ,governor1 ,sir ,george ,grey1 at their head1 and preceded by a band1 to the ground4 ,there might have been about #cjj cavalry and #bjj infantry1 with several pieces of artillery4 ,they all looked very well2 their uniform was plain and remarkably suitable for the purpose1 consisting of tunics and trousers of black cloth with metal buttons1 and a common cap with a silver ornament4 ,they went through the usual manoeuvres1 whilst a good deal of gunpowder was expended4 ,the evolutions of the cavalry were executed with wonderful precision1 a result due chiefly to the circumstance that1 at the ,cape1 every inhabitant is a good equestrian1 and is trained from childhood to manage a horse4 ,illustration3 ,,rifle ,,volunteer ,f,,te ,,at ,,stellenbosch4 ,the review finished1 a breakfast was served at the ,drosdy1 or ,municipality1 on long tables1 in a magnificent avenue of oak trees2 nearly #fjj volunteers and many other guests sat down1 whilst in the back-ground a large number of ladies and gentlemen were present as spectators4 ,the presence of some members of the ,novara ,expedition at the festival led the ,burgomaster1 after the toast of the ,queen was given1 to propose the health of the ,emperor of ,austria1 prefacing it with various laudatory remarks on the ,expedition4 ,the toast was most heartily received1 the whole company raising their glasses1 whilst the band performed the ,austrian national anthem4 ,the officer to whose lot it fell to return thanks1 said3--,that he felt deeply gratified with the honour done to his country and nation by the enthusiasm with which the health of his sovereign had been received by so distinguished an assembly1 and that he could not forbear expressing his admiration and delight in observing the prosperous condition of this fine country1 which1 like all others where the ,anglo-,saxon race was predominant1 was blessed with freedom1 with the spirit of progress1 and the blessings of ,christianity2 and he concluded by proposing ,old ,england for ever4 ,on the day after the review the journey was pursued early in the morning to the village of ,paarl 7,pearl71 about four hours distant4 ,we had come as strangers to the hospitable ,stellenbosch1 and left as old friends1 the entire family accompanying us to the carriage1 and the worthy old mother of our amiable host1 a thoroughly genuine ,dutch matron1 was visibly touched on taking leave of those whom1 in all probability1 she would never see more4 ,on the route to ,paarl several immensely large ant-hills were met with1 some of which measured from two to two-and-a-half feet in diameter1 by about three feet high4 ,the insects were partly black and partly of a greyish-brown colour1 and must be very troublesome to the farmers4 ,paarl1 an extremely neat village1 consists of a single long street1 and contains nearly #djjj inhabitants1 chiefly occupied in the growth of the vine4 ,they are the descendants of those ,french ,protestants who1 at the close of the #agth century1 left their native country in consequence of religious persecution4 ,all the detached farm-yards were extremely neat1 and bore evidence of the wealth of their owners4 ,nothing reminds one of ,africa and the neighbourhood of ,hottentots1 ,bushmen1 or ,caffres4 ,the landscape becomes grander the more the mountains1 #djjj to #ejjj feet high1 are approached4 ,among them lies the little town of ,wellington1 charmingly situated2 though but a few years in existence1 and numbering only #bjjj inhabitants1 it has already a joint-stock bank with a capital of #de1jjj1 several schools1 and some neat places of worship4 ,while taking an evening stroll1 we passed a well-lighted ,reformed ,dutch ,church1 from the interior of which the devotional tones of a pious ,christian congregation floating through the night air1 died away among the mountains4 ,singular to say1 the small1 and1 one would think1 essentially prosaic and practical little town of ,wellington boasts a quack doctor1 named ,brabna1 whom the common people1 far and near1 come to consult1 more1 one would imagine1 to be relieved of their money than their ailments4 ,illustration3 ,,paine',s ,,kloef ,,as ,,it ,,was4 ,illustration3 ,,paine',s ,,kloef ,,as ,,it ,,is4 ,the route to ,worcester1 whither we set out the following morning1 leads at first through the wide1 highly-cultivated ,waggonmakers' ,valley1 adorned with numbers of rich farm-steads 7so named from a number of artisans of this handicraft having settled here in former times71 after which it passes over the difficult pass called ,paine's ,kloef1 #djjj feet high1 which frequently recalled the well-known road over the ,smmering ,alp1 or that at ,optschina4 ,this mountain-pass1 first completed in #ahec1 by the engineer1 ,mr4 ,paine1 greatly facilitates the traffic between ,cape ,town and this fertile district1 which previously was quite inaccessible1 and whose immense natural resources are only now beginning to be developed4 ,when we reached the highest point of the pass we found a strong south-east wind blowing4 ,the thermometer marked #ee ,f41 and when plunged in a spring that issued from the mountain close at hand1 #dh4 ,south-east winds are especially prevalent here1 particularly in summer1 when they frequently cause serious damage2 hence all the upper branches of the trees incline to the north-west4 ,we now came to the finest bridge in the country1 named ,darling ,bridge1 after a late governor1 which is thrown across the broad stream called by the ,dutch1 ,breede ,river1 and by the ,english1 ,broad ,river1 a frequent source of error4 ,the ,english colonists are bent upon driving out the ,dutch names of rivers and localities1 and supplying them with new names of ,english origin4 ,the ,dutch1 however1 hold on obstinately to the names they have been accustomed to1 and continue to use the ancient nomenclature4 ,in the neighbourhood of ,darling ,bridge is a farm where the traveller can be comfortably accommodated1 and from which1 being a post-station1 letters can be forwarded to all parts of the country4 ,it has regular communication with the rest of the colony three times a week4 ,the vehicle1 however1 in which the letters and packets are forwarded1 in consequence of the wretched roads in the interior1 and with the view of expediting the transmission of mail matter1 is simply a light1 open1 eminently uncomfortable1 two-wheel waggon1 in which but one passenger can be taken each trip4 ,day and night1 up hill and down dale1 it continues its journey1 changing driver and horses every two hours1 only the unfortunate passenger being condemned to remain glued to the jolting uncomfortable car1 until he has attained the end of his journey4 ,we were told of an ,english captain1 who once travelled on urgent business #djj miles in fifty hours in this fashion1 and arrived at his destination in such a pitiable plight1 that he had to be lifted from the car and put to bed forthwith1 which he kept for several weeks1 before he was able to get about again4 ,unfortunately1 we were not told whether this unlucky passenger returned to ,cape ,town by a similar conveyance4 ,in the dining-room of the farm we made acquaintance with several families from ,graaf ,reinet1 in the north of the colony1 who were en route for ,cape ,town1 and had been already three weeks on the road1 during which they must have passed every night in their unwieldy waggon1 or under tents4 ,there was also among the assembled travellers a ,quaker ,missionary1 of ,worcester1 who was on his way to the opening of the ,spiritual ,synod at ,cape ,town1 and who was so kind as to furnish us1 on the spot1 with some introductions to his friends in ,worcester1 a lovely little town1 which we reached towards the evening4 ,there are places which charm at the first glance1 just as there are many men who take us by storm as it were4 ,worcester is one of these2 so neat1 so clean1 with a pretty garden in front of each little house1 every wall of which was entwined with roses1 and in the back-ground all around1 bare1 but picturesque groups of lofty hills of a blueish-grey tint1 which imparted to the entire landscape a peculiar and almost magical colouring4 ,worcester1 a creation of yesterday1 has about #dejj inhabitants1 chiefly employed in vine growing and sheep pasture4 ,there are some of the peasantry here who own flocks of #cjjj to #djjj sheep6 ,the rich vegetation of the valley has an eminently northern character4 ,alongside of oaks1 pines1 poplars1 willows1 will appear a tree of ,australian origin1 of the order of ,myrtace1 the blue gum-tree 7,eucalyptus ,globulus71 which1 on account of its rapid growth1 is planted before each door for the purpose of shade4 ,one of these trees was shown to us of but four years' growth1 the stem of which was already twenty feet high6 ,the leaves have a highly aromatic odour1 and must be especially suitable for the extraction of oil1 as the rind is full of camphor2 as yet1 however1 the tree is not used by the colonists for any other purpose than to supply shade to their gardens4 ,it is surprising what comfort the traveller encounters among these new settlements1 from which1 even already1 all traces have been eradicated of the difficulties that originally beset the colonist2 so that at every turn one meets with evidences of the highest ,european civilization4 ,whenever1 indeed1 he finds himself at a settlement1 he will remark that it is not merely provided with the necessaries of life1 or the mere products of the soil1 but that it sparkles with numerous objects of luxury and refined taste2 such as handsome furniture1 pianos1 and other musical instruments1 engravings1 ,english classics1 besides telescopes1 barometers1 thermometers1 and other similar evidences of high cultivation4 ,at the hotel at ,worcester1 we met with a degree of comfort such as is found only in the chief cities of ,europe4 ,several of the inhabitants1 among others ,dr4 ,esselin1 a missionary of the ,moravian brotherhood1 and ,dr4 ,meynard1 of the ,episcopal ,church1 laid us under particular obligations by their participation in the objects of our inquiry4 ,the latter gentleman sought us out at our hotel1 and1 after a hearty welcome1 remarked that he possessed1 in his collection1 several highly interesting petrifactions from ,beaufort1 about #djj miles north-west of ,worcester4 ,we satisfied ourselves1 however1 by a visit which we paid to ,dr4 ,meynard at his own house1 that his collection was far from possessing the interest he claimed for it4 ,in all probability1 however1 judging by what we heard1 ,beaufort must be a classic soil for the palontologist1 as there are numberless fossils in that district1 especially of reptiles4 ,in like manner1 the stalactite grottoes1 known as ,the ,congo ,caves1 #cjj miles from ,worcester1 have never yet been scientifically examined or described4 ,dr4 ,esselin1 who is a native of ,hesse1 was so kind as to accompany the naturalists of the ,novara ,expedition to the hot springs of ,brand ,vley the following morning4 ,the road thither1 which lies through a valley partly overflowed towards the end of the rainy season1 was exceedingly trying to the horses1 and1 but for the kind offices of ,dr4 ,esselin1 who was acquainted with the difficulties of the route1 and undertook the guidance of the waggon through the constantly recurring swamps and morasses1 we should in all probability have had to retrace our steps halfway1 or even have stuck fast1 which would have been a still more serious matter4 ,only after unspeakable exertions did we succeed in threading the valley of ,worcester as far as the shores of ,breede 7or ,broad7 ,river4 ,several times we were compelled1 in order to lighten the waggon1 to dismount1 and wade up to our knees in water4 ,once the quag was so deep1 that to avoid sinking in it we had to be carried1 one by one1 on the back of our ,malay driver4 ,illustration3 ,,crossing ,,the ,,breede ,,river4 ,on the bank is the cottage1 7boeren plaats71 of a peasant who avails himself of his proximity to convert the stream into a source of profit1 by ferrying travellers1 who have occasion to pass here during the floods1 across the river in a small skiff1 the waggon and horses being swum across afterwards4 ,in summer1 on the contrary1 the stream is readily forded on horseback1 and is indeed dry at several points4 ,at the period of our visit 7in ,october1 #aheg71 towards the end of the rainy season1 this ,breede ,river was about #aej feet wide1 and about #bh feet deep1 and we accordingly found ourselves compelled to call in the assistance of the ferryman4 ,under his superintendence the work was gone about quite systematically4 ,first of all the four horses were swum across1 by a halter round the neck2 after which the luggage was transported to the opposite bank in a small boat4 ,last of all came the waggon1 with the travellers therein4 ,it was thought that the upper portion of the waggon might be towed across1 swimming on the surface of the water1 by fastening an empty water-tight cask between the wheels2 the cask1 however1 proved unequal to the weight4 ,as the waggon left the shore it sank deeper and deeper in the water1 till about mid-current it fairly capsized1 hardly a spoke of the left wheel reaching the opposite bank4 ,amidst our perplexities1 a violent shower of rain came on1 making the waggon leak in every corner1 just as we succeeded1 after great trouble1 in getting it to land1 and were busy repairing it4 ,fortunately1 every requisite precaution had been taken to remedy any such disaster occurring at this dangerous spot2 so that the whole affair1 though sufficiently uncomfortable at the time1 left only the recollection of a pleasant adventure4 ,illustration3 ,,hot ,,springs ,,of ,,brand ,,vley4 ,at last1 towards noon1 we reached the hot springs of ,brand ,vley1 or ,brand ,valley4 ,this hot spring1 which is quite exposed1 like a pond or tank1 and even at the least accessible points is adorned with rich vegetation1 is about #ajj feet in circumference1 and is of a triangular shape1 rounded off at the corners4 ,among bananas1 ferns1 and cacti of all sorts1 spring up numerous specimens of ,calla ,ethioptica1 silver poplars1 pines1 reeds1 and canes1 in wild profusion4 ,many fruits even1 such as pine-apples1 mangoes1 rose apples1 c41 which as a rule do not flourish at this elevation1 grew all round the edges of the basin4 ,some twigs of a rose tree1 which1 growing luxuriantly in the warmth and moisture1 spread across the spring1 like a green canopy1 must have been a second growth of the same year4 ,we in fact enjoyed the unusual spectacle of seeing one portion of the tree in the flush of its utmost beauty1 while the upper and more distant branches had not as yet put forth their leaves4 ,the water at the hottest point reached #ade ,f41 while the temperature of the air was #ge ,f4 ,it is remarkably clear1 has not the slightest taste1 and in many particulars greatly resembles the springs of ,wildbad ,gastein4 ,the number of patients during the season 7,october to ,april7 does not exceed from #ajj to #aej1 the waters being chiefly used in chronic maladies1 rheumatic affections1 scrofula1 erysipelas1 cutaneous eruptions1 and similar complaints4 ,immediately adjoining is a small brook1 with a temperature of #fh ,f41 which rises at the foot of a neighbouring eminence1 and has water enough during the entire year to keep a mill in constant work4 ,the only animal inhabiting the spring is the larva of a ,tipularia1 which frequents one quarter of the pool where the temperature of the water does not exceed #aac4 ,on the #adth of ,august1 #aheg1 two shocks of an earthquake were felt in rapid succession in ,brand ,valley1 of such violence as to arouse the inhabitants out of their sleep1 when several of the smaller houses were found to have rents and fissures in their walls4 ,the proprietor of the bath alleged that the shocks in ,brand ,valley were much more severe than at ,worcester1 although that town is but six miles distant4 ,at ,brand ,valley we took leave of our hospitable companion1 ,dr4 ,esselin1 who presented us with several books on leaving1 and set out on an excursion to the mission of the ,moravian ,brethren in ,genaaden ,dal1 in the district of ,caledon4 ,en route we encountered several families1 who came from far in the interior of ,cape ,colony1 driving before them enormous herds of oxen1 some of which were yoked to the waggons that formed the caravan1 these being fitted up something like dwelling-houses on wheels4 ,as night fell1 a halt would be called at some selected spot1 when the draught oxen were unharnessed1 a fire lit in the open air1 and the evening repast prepared4 ,horses are very rarely used on long journeys1 although these are in consequence seriously lengthened thereby1 especially as it is the custom all over the country to unyoke every two or three hours1 so as to allow the beasts to enjoy a roll on the ground1 if only for a few minutes at a time4 ,as neither of our drivers was acquainted with the road we were now to pursue1 we hired a black guide from ,brand ,valley1 who accompanied us on horseback as far as the next farm-house1 where we were to pass the night4 ,just as one requires a pilot to take a ship into an insecure or unknown harbour1 so we now had to avail ourselves of the services of this limber young negro1 who was an excellent rider1 in piloting us through the endless morasses and pools of water4 ,renden was the name of the solitary farm 7the property of ,mr4 ,pretorius1 a landed proprietor1 to whom we had letters of introduction71 where we were to pass the night4 ,as we approached1 we were saluted with the loud barking of a hound that had been unchained1 and who seemed ready to rush upon his unexpected prey1 so that we hardly dared to advance one step4 ,at last a man made his appearance at the door of the house1 with a lantern in his hand1 speedily followed by the whole family1 anxious to learn who could be in the neighbourhood at so late an hour4 ,we handed him the letter1 which we begged him to read1 and requested to know whether we could be received for the night4 ,we were at once admitted1 and speedily found a most cordial welcome4 ,we were shown into apartments very plainly furnished1 but neat1 and scrupulously clean1 after which we were invited to join the household at supper4 ,it was a very numerous family4 ,the father and mother1 genuine ,dutch figures1 sat at the head of a long table2 next to whom sat the son-in-law1 who had married the eldest daughter1 and then commingled with each other1 the sons and daughters that were as yet unmarried4 ,they all seemed hearty and healthy1 and their indurated hands were the best diploma of their industry4 ,the youngest son said a short prayer2 after which venison1 potatoes1 mutton1 vegetables1 bread1 butter1 and cheese were set down in huge dishes1 besides which two bottles of ,cape wine1 of their own manufacture1 went the round of the table4 ,although this place had been only settled four years previously1 an immense deal had been already accomplished by this stirring1 cheerful family to make the soil thoroughly productive1 and render the house habitable4 ,even a small garden had been laid out in front of the dwelling-house4 ,the chief article of cultivation in the valley is the grape1 for wine manufacture1 which must in this place return a very handsome profit4 ,from ,renden to ,genaaden ,dal is a four-hours' journey4 ,the road passes by ,donker's ,hoek1 a tolerably high mountain1 to ascend the summit of which cost our horses some strenuous exertion1 although we marched a considerable distance on foot4 ,a wide belt of sandstone formation presented a marvellous display of flowers1 and gave us in little an idea of the ,south ,african ,karroos1 a series of terraced clay-patches1 estimated at from #cjjj to #djjj feet high1 which1 hard and steppe-like in the dry season1 are speedily transformed in the rainy season into smiling1 flower-bespangled plains1 quite sponge-like under foot1 and rich in alkaline products4#eb ,we advanced some six hours before reaching another farm-house4 ,this was known as ,kleene ,islea ,plaats 7,little ,island ,farm71 near which flows the ,zonderend ,river 7,river ,without ,end71 the property of a kind and hospitable family of ,french extraction1 whose parents emigrated hither from ,france during the revolution in #agic4 ,as it was ,sunday1 the servants had gone to church1 so they could only offer us cold mutton1 syrup1 butter1 and bread4 ,before and after our repast1 the devout old lady of the house put up a short petition4 ,footnote #eb3 ,the ,english appellation ,karroo seems to be derived from ,karusa1 signifying hard in the ,hottentot language1 and to refer to a quality appertaining to the clayey substance of which these terraces are composed1 by virtue of which the red clay1 strongly impregnated with iron1 and mixed with sand1 becomes in the dry season as hard as burnt clay4 ,here1 too1 we remarked that those born in the country of ,european parents are called ,africans3 only the ,english form an exception to this rule1 and remain with persistent patriotic obstinacy1 ,englishmen4 ,the journey from ,kleene ,islea ,plaats to ,genaaden ,dal is extremely picturesque4 ,one first catches sight of this retired ,moravian settlement only when actually entering the place itself1 embowered as it is among lofty trees4 ,what a surprise1 when1 still fancying one's self at a considerable distance from the village1 on reaching the end of a beautiful valley at the entrance to ,bavian's ,kloef1 one sweeps by a circuit into the very heart of the settlement4 ,we alighted at what is called ,the ,lodgment1 a house set apart for visitors1 and conducted by a brother1 in conformity with the laws of the community4 ,the dwellings of the ,hottentots lie scattered among the rising grounds in the neighbourhood1 and with their poverty-stricken aspect impart a somewhat melancholy impression4 ,these are built of loam1 low in the roof1 as though intended for a stunted race of men1 and rarely have windows1 so that the door is1 generally speaking1 the largest aperture in the entire building4 ,our ,malay driver laughed at them1 and called them oete kripp 7oxen stalls74 ,illustration3 ,,hottentot ,,huts ,,at ,,genaadendal4 ,there seem to be three distinct kinds of these dwellings1 which apparently indicate so many grades of social and pecuniary consideration among the resident ,hottentot families4 ,the first sort1 which consists simply of a single apartment1 serving at once for kitchen1 work-shop1 and sleeping place1 and receiving air and light through a narrow1 low-pitched door-way1 is that most usually met with1 and may not unaptly be compared to a bee-hive4 ,the next class is of a better description1 and may at once and definitely be distinguished from the first-mentioned1 in so far as it possesses a second room1 which1 if dark and windowless1 is at any rate partitioned off1 and serves as a sleeping apartment4 ,finally1 the third kind1 which can only be said to be the least poor-looking1 consists of one large1 almost empty chamber1 for occupation during the day1 with wings on either side1 one of which is used as a kitchen1 the other as a bed-room4 ,the wretched ventilation1 and damp1 moist location of these habitations1 combined with the bad quality of food1 may be regarded as the main causes of the unfavourable state of health of the coloured portion of the inhabitants of ,genaaden ,dal1 among whom1 especially as regards the female portion1 pulmonary complaints are rife4 ,we were provided with letters of introduction to the ,superintendent of the ,community1 ,dr4 ,kbling1 as also to the ,physician and ,pharmaceutist1 ,dr4 ,roser1 a ,wrtemberger by birth1 and experienced a most cordial reception4 ,we availed ourselves of the last hours of declining day to make an excursion to the hills1 in the country immediately adjacent1 so as to command at a glance the entire colony4 ,the principal buildings1 the ,church1 the school1 the workshops1 the warehouses1 and the dwellings of the missionaries1 are assembled in a quadrangular open place1 to which a number of lofty1 massive1 leafy1 venerable oaks impart a sombre1 but poetical1 appearance1 eminently characteristic of the community4 ,all the buildings are of a uniform dingy-grey tint4 ,close in the rear of these buildings is a large garden1 which reaches as far as what is called ,bavian's ,kloef 7defile71 in which1 even at present1 apes1 antelopes1 and zebras1 abound4 ,near the kitchen-garden is the cemetery of the community1 which seems to be used by meditative brethren as a favourite resort and promenade4 ,this settlement1 situated at the entrance of a mountain defile1 at the foot of an immense sandstone range1 of from #cjjj to #djjj feet high1 was founded in the year #aghg1 by a brother of the persuasion1 named ,george ,schmidt1 from ,moravia1 who settled fifty-five miles east of ,cape ,town1 near ,sargent's ,river1 with a number of ,hottentots1 whom he began to convert to ,christianity1 and called the station ,bavian's ,kloef4 ,from the year #ahjf1 the settlement assumed the beautiful name of ,genaaden ,dal 7,vale of ,benevolence71 so exquisitely correspondent with the benevolent exertions of the brotherhood4 ,it at present numbers #cajj souls1 mostly a race crossed between ,hottentots and ,mozambique negroes1 of the latter of whom a considerable number have settled here since the ,slave ,emancipation ,act of #ahbf4 ,the settlers are partly proprietors of the land1 partly artisans1 cutlers1 waggon-makers1 tanners1 carpenters1 millers1 c4 ,in the workshops the most exemplary cleanliness and neatness are imperatively insisted on4 ,at the ,great ,exhibition1 held in ,london in #ahea1 the wood-work of the ,hottentot carpenters of ,genaaden ,dal received ,honourable ,mention1 and this elegant testimonial in recognition of their efforts now hangs1 framed and glazed1 in the library hall of the community4 ,it somewhat surprised us that the cutlers did not receive1 in their section1 a similar distinction1 since1 in that department of industry1 the ,hottentots produce articles1 which1 so far as concerns quality and cheapness1 are really astounding4 ,the workpeople receive a fixed weekly payment1 which they may expend as they please4 ,the net proceeds1 however1 of the various articles manufactured belong to the community1 and are expended in defraying the expenses of1 and supporting1 the mission4 ,the inhabitants of ,genaaden ,dal are closely connected1 by religious ties1 with the community2 and only those who profess the principles of the ,moravian brotherhood are permitted to settle among them4 ,the field-labourers1 who hire themselves out to labour elsewhere1 are frequently absent from the settlement for months at a time1 and return to ,genaaden ,dal immediately after the completion of seed-time or harvest4 ,it is significant that these labourers regard this period of emancipation1 as a sort of relaxation from the severe discipline and rules to which they are subjected in the religious community4 ,the principal articles of food of the inhabitants consist of maize1 beans1 pumpkins1 rice1 fruits1 tea1 coffee1 and occasionally mutton4 ,wine is strictly prohibited throughout the settlement1 and when a member of the ,novara ,expedition1 never imagining that this interdict extended to strangers as well1 desired the attendant at the house we were occupying to fetch a bottle of sherry1 that individual regarded him with as horror-stricken an air as though he had asked him to participate in some crime4 ,although the first settlers in ,genaaden ,dal were pure ,hottentots1 not more than five or six at present speak the idiom of their fathers1 the rest knowing only the ,dutch tongue4 ,the ,superintendent had the kindness to allow an old blind man1 of the name of ,sebastian ,hendrik1 to be presented to us1 born in the colony in #agge1 of ,hottentot parents1 een opregt ,hottentot 7an out-and-out ,hottentot71 as he called himself1 and who still could speak a number of phrases in his mother tongue1 with its extraordinary clicking sounds2 but1 on the other hand1 no longer had the slightest recollection of the customs1 usages1 or proverbs of that nation to which he belonged by birth4 ,in the library of the community1 where this conversation took place1 there were also shown to us numerous sketches by ,hottentot and ,caffre lads1 which gave great hope of future excellence4 ,it is an especially gratifying indication of intellectual progress1 that several works of natural history are to be found on the shelves of the library4 ,illustration3 ,,church ,,and ,,mission ,,houses ,,of ,,the ,,moravian ,,settlement ,,at ,,genaadendal4 ,we also found time to listen to the singing in the church1 quite a plain wooden building1 erected in #ahjj1 with white-washed walls1 a spacious gallery1 and an elegant organ1 the gift of a benevolent lady of ,hamburg1 who spent some months of the year #ahdc at ,cape ,town in search of health1 and took an opportunity of visiting the ,moravian brethren at ,genaaden ,dal4 ,one of the missionaries sat in the middle of the chapel at a table covered with green cloth1 and gave out1 verse by verse1 a hymn in the ,dutch language1 which was afterwards sung1 with accompaniment by the organ1 by the entire community assemble in the edifice4 ,the men and women sat apart from each other1 on smooth wooden benches1 the former on the left1 the latter on the right of the officiating minister4 ,the chapel was only illuminated with a few tallow candles2 but the devotional feeling of the community seemed to gain by this simple unostentatious ritual1 and the mysterious solemn obscurity of their place of congregational worship4 ,next morning1 #abth ,october1 some of the brethren paid us the attention of examining in our presence the scholars of the ,seminary for ,teachers1 so that we might personally satisfy ourselves of their progress in the various branches of education4 ,this academy for the education of suitable instructors1 was originally established in #ahch1 through the generous assistance of a ,saxon nobleman1 ,count ,schnburg1 and year by year since1 has been so liberally assisted by that benevolent nobleman1 that its future prosperity seems fairly established4 ,at present there are in the seminary #ad pupils 7,hottentots1 ,caffres1 and half-breeds74 ,since the year of its establishment1 #ej young persons in all have been sent out hence2 of whom1 however1 only one half proved to be available for the duties of teachers4 ,up to the year #ahef1 twenty-two pupils were already at work in the service of the community1 fourteen had been rejected as unsuitable1 and fourteen were still in the institute4 ,they entered at from ten to fifteen years of age1 remained within its walls six years for instruction1 when they were clothed and maintained1 and thereafter1 without further obligations to the society which had educated them1 were dispatched into the most remote districts of the colony as teachers and apostles of ,christianity4 ,the examination of the pupils of the seminary took place at the ,library ,hall1 which boasts a portrait of a highly meritorious brother1 the venerable ,c4 ,j4 ,latrobe1 who1 in the year #ahae-af1 visited ,south ,africa as a missionary1 and1 two years later published1 in ,london1 his very remarkable book of travels4 ,the examination commenced with a performance on the piano by a ,mestizo lad of about sixteen1 son of a ,mulatto father by a ,hottentot mother4 ,this youth displayed a decided talent for music1 coupled with truly admirable execution2 and besides the piano1 played the organ1 the violin1 and the violoncello4 ,next1 a variety of questions in geography and history were put to the pupils present4 ,these consisted chiefly of easy intelligible questions1 principally relating to ,england4 ,those examined were surprisingly well acquainted with the history of ,liverpool1 ,london1 ,manchester1 ,dublin1 c41 and could enumerate many particulars about the ,thames and ,westminster ,abbey4 ,what proved most disagreeable1 was the singular custom that prevailed1 of all the pupils answering at once1 each hoping1 by out-clamouring his fellow1 to prove his intimate acquaintance with the subject under discussion4 ,the examiner1 for example1 put a question to a scholar1 whereupon all the pupils yelled out the reply in chorus4 ,but it was1 on the whole1 astonishing1 and indeed eminently suggestive1 to hear ,hottentots1 ,caffres1 and negroes1 at the extreme southernmost part of ,africa1 speaking of ,england1 and her influence over the destinies of humanity1 as a commercial1 maritime1 and industrial power4 ,already the youth of the settlement are thoroughly interpenetrated with esteem and affection for the mother country and its mighty people4 ,as a finale1 the assembled pupils sang a ,dutch ,bergmann's ,gruss1 ,the ,miner's ,welcome1 and one of ,mendelssohn's delightful songs4 ,before we quitted ,genaaden ,dal we breakfasted with the missionaries4 ,they are all married1 and manage their households in common1 and accordingly partake of their various meals together1 each with his family1 all seated at one table1 one of their wives attending to change dishes and wait at the table4 ,nowhere are any particular qualifications to be remarked1 and it is difficult to conceive more thorough harmony than exists among the unpretending1 yet zealously religious missionaries of ,genaaden ,dal4 ,as we were preparing for our departure1 ,dr4 ,roser unexpectedly packed up a number of objects of natural history and scientific interest1 which he kindly presented to the ,imperial expedition as a souvenir of ,genaaden ,dal4 ,besides these1 there were also given to us two valuable little books1--one a small work upon the ,nicobar ,islands1 written about the beginning of this century by a ,moravian brother of the name of ,gottfried ,hensel2 the other a treatise composed by the excellent ,dr4 ,roser himself1 upon the pharmaceutics and natural history of ,genaaden ,dal4 ,with respect to the various substances chewed as stimulants1 or intoxicants1 by the ,hottentots1 in order to deprive themselves of sensation1 or rouse themselves to a state of high excitability1 we found the following particulars in this interesting essay4 ,that most in use is composed of the bruised leaves of the ,leonotis ,leonurus4 ,this plant1 which grows in great quantity in and beyond the ,genaaden ,dal1 is called by the natives ,dagga1 as also frequently1 ,tacha or ,takka1 and this variation in pronunciation is very probably the reason that we find in ,berghaus's ,vlker des ,erdballs 7,races of the ,globe71 this celebrated smoke-weed1 marked as ,donha4 ,what the same author says of certain stimulating properties of the plant may well be considered as an exaggeration4 ,it is curious how the properties of this plant seem to be inextricably mingled with the destinies of the ,hottentots4 ,in many places it has been extirpated1 in order more readily to wean the aborigines from the practice of chewing3 at other places again1 ,leonotis ,leonurus is expressly planted in order to attract the ,hottentots1 and so supply any deficiency in hands for labour1 reckless of the moral consequences4 ,another narcotic1 and the most widely prevalent1 is the wild hemp 7,canabis ,sativa71 the dried leaves of which are smoked by the natives4 ,dr4 ,juritz1 one of the most respectable apothecaries in ,cape ,town1 assured us he had been compelled1 during a previous residence at ,stellenbosch1 where he was engaged in his business1 to keep always on hand in his store a large quantity of wild hemp for sale to the natives4 ,the poison with which the ,bushmen tip their arrows1 rendering them such dangerous and terrible weapons1 is extracted from the ,cestrum venenatum4#ec ,footnote #ec3 ,the ,dyaks of ,borneo poison their arrows with the juice of ,strychnos ,tieut and ,antiaris ,toxicaria 7,upas74 ,among the animal products of ,genaaden ,dal of importance in a scientific point of view is ,hyrazeuma1 a substance obtained from the urine of the ,cape ,marmot 7,hyrax ,capensis74 ,it is of a dark-brown colour1 somewhat tenacious1 and nearly hard1 of a very penetrating odour1 and is found in cavities resembling a molehill4 ,this article is made use of with much effect in hysterical complaints by the ,hottentots4 ,dr4 ,roser is of opinion1 that this ,cape ,marmot is in all probability the same animal which ,martin ,luther1 in ,leviticus1 c4 xi1 v4 #e1 and ,proverbs1 c4 xxx1 v4 #bf1 has translated by the word kaninchen 7conies74 ,on our way from ,genaaden ,dal to ,caledon1 to which there is an excellent level road1 we perceived a large number of silver poplars1 with pendent nests of finches4 ,on a single tree we counted more than forty such pendent nests1 constructed in a very singular manner4 ,caledon is a cheerful1 ambitious little town1 important as the centre of the wool trade1 as also for the thermal springs in the neighbourhood4 ,these1 situated about two ,english miles outside the town1 on a rising ground1 in a romantic and highly attractive neighbourhood1 are impregnated with iron1 and of a considerable temperature4 ,even in the bath-house1 distant about a mile from the source of the spring1 a thermometer held in a stone trough1 filled to overflowing1 marked from #ajjd to #ajd ,fahr4 ,at their respective sources the one spring has a temperature of #aaff ,fahr4 and the other #aadh ,fahr4 ,the colour of the water is ochre yellow4 ,from the terrace of the bath-house a rather extensive landscape opens to the view1 backed by a splendid range of mountains1 including the ,tower of ,babel1 as the inhabitants have christened the highest peak in this vicinity4 ,caledon has #fjj inhabitants4 ,about twenty years ago there were not more than ten bales of wool grown in the entire district4 ,at present about #hjj1jjj lbs4 are shipped annually4 ,one ,merino sheep supplies from #a lb4 to #a-a_/b lb4 of wool1 worth from #as4 #b;d4 to #as4 #d;d4 sterling per pound4 ,besides ,caledon1 the principal wool districts of ,cape ,colony are ,swellendam1 ,beaufort1 and ,graaf-,reinet4 ,all these districts united produce yearly about #ae1jjj1jjj lbs4 of wool1 worth about #a1jjj1jjj sterling4 ,within two years the wool produce of the entire colony has increased #cj per cent41 and during last year a strenuous and very costly experiment has been made to introduce the ,angora breed1 with the intention of increasing the wool-producing powers of the less fleecy race by a judicious cross with the native species4 ,the road to ,somerset-,west leads over the high and picturesque ,hauw-,hoek ,pass and ,sir ,lowry's ,pass2 the latter is very steep1 and parts of it are hardly1 if at all1 inferior in extent and variety of landscape to those presented by the ,styrian ,alps4 ,at the culminating point of the latter pass1 which surpasses even ,paine's ,kloef in height and width1 one stands as upon the ruins of a lofty tower1 from which the eye can range at will over the entire country beneath4 ,south-east and eastward towers the ,hauw-,hoek ,pass1 while southwards and westwards the charming ,lowry's ,vale1 and far in the distance the smiling settlement of ,somerset-,west come into view1 while all around1 farther than the eye can reach1 are luxuriant pasturages1 that only wait to be settled and cultivated in order to produce magnificent returns4 ,somerset-,west1 a prettily-built1 and very charmingly situated settlement1 already supports so considerable a traffic with the capital that a daily omnibus has proved a remunerative speculation to the promoters4 ,we now proceeded to ,zandvliet1 the property of one of the oldest and most highly considered families in the colony1 named ,cloete1 where we spent the night4 ,with these genial kindly people we soon felt ourselves as entirely at home as if with our own families2 we sang1 laughed1 and frolicked1 till far into the night4 ,the following morning we drove to a hill1 about a mile and a half distant from ,zandvliet1 known as ,macassar ,downs1 on which is the spot of interment1 7,krammat or ,brammat71 of a ,malay prophet4 ,illustration3 ,,tomb ,,of ,a ,,malay ,,prophet ,,at ,,zandvliet4 ,this individual1 so honoured in death1 was1 if we are to believe the ,malays1 a direct descendant of ,mahomet1 named ,sheikh ,joseph1 who1 expelled from ,batavia by the ,dutch ,government for political reasons1 settled in the colony about a century and a half ago1 and died and was buried in the neighbourhood of ,zandvliet4 ,an especial deputation came over from ,malacca to ,cape ,colony to fetch away the corpse of the defunct prophet1 for conveyance to the land of his birth2 but at the disinterment it happened that the little finger of the prophet1 in spite of the most persevering research1 could nowhere be found4 ,this circumstance appeared to those simple believers sufficient reason for erecting a monument over the spot in which the finger of a ,malay prophet lay hid from view4 ,even to this day the ,malays from time to time perform a pilgrimage to the ,colony and celebrate their religious ceremonies at the ,mausoleum4 ,four followers of the prophet are buried with him1 two of them ,mahometan priests1 who are regarded with much veneration by the ,malays4 ,an extensive flight of stone steps leads to the tomb1 the exterior of which is very insignificant1 and1 but for a small pointed turret1 hardly differs from an ordinary dwelling-house4 ,on entering1 a low-roofed vault is visible1 a sort of front outhouse1 which rather disfigures the faade1 and much more resembles a cellar than the portal of a ,mausoleum4 ,above the arch of this vault an ,arabic inscription has been engraved with a stylus2 but this is so painted over in brick colour that it has already become almost illegible4 ,judging by the few words that have been deciphered1 it seems to consist of the first propositions of the ,koran4 ,illustration3 ,,interior ,,of ,,the ,,mausoleum4 ,the inner room1 provided on two sides with modern glazed windows at irregular intervals1 is about the size of an ordinary room of #ab feet long1 #i wide1 and #g high4 ,in the middle rises the monument1 to which access is had by some more brick steps4 ,immense quantities of unwashed white linen cloth are heaped upon it1 which seem occasionally sprinkled with a brown odoriferous liquid 7dupa74 ,as at the head of ,sheikh ,joseph1 so at his feet several figures1 resembling those in enamel used to ornament tarts1 are drawn upon the linen cloth with the overflowings of the unguent4 ,these have undoubtedly been formed accidentally1 and it appears wrong and unfair to attribute to them any more recondite significance4 ,the monument rests upon four wooden pillars1 with pyramidal pinnacles or ornaments1 and is richly decorated with fine white muslin1 which gives to the whole very much the appearance of an old-fashioned ,english fourposter1 with its costly drapery and curtains4 ,while the curtains are spread out all around1 several small green and white bannerets stand at the upper and lower end of the sarcophagus4 ,the whole interior is1 as it were1 impregnated with the incense which devout ,malay pilgrims from time to time burn here1 especially after the forty days' fast 7,ramadan71 or leave behind upon the steps of the tomb in flasks or in paper-boxes4 ,on such occasions1 they always bring wax-candles and linen cloth as an offering1 with the latter of which they deck the tomb afresh1 so that a perfect mountain of white linen rises above the stone floor4 ,during their devotions they unceasingly kiss this white mass of stuff1 and as they are continually chewing tobacco1 this filthy habit produces disgustingly loathsome stains4 ,on the same hill which boasts the tomb of ,sheikh ,joseph1 there are also1 in ground that is common property1 nine other graves of eminent ,malays1 enclosed with carefully-selected stones1 and likewise covered over with large broad strips of bleached linen cloth1 protected by stones from any injury by weather or violence4 ,at the head and foot of each individual interred1 is a single stone of larger size4 ,formerly the black inhabitants of the neighbourhood made use of this store of linen cloth to make shirts for themselves1 without further thought upon the propriety of the matter4 ,latterly1 however1 a shrewd ,malay priest spread a report that one of these ebony linen stealers had lost all the fingers off one hand1 since which the graves of those departed worthies remain inviolate and unprofaned4 ,at the foot of the hill are some small half-fallen-in buildings1 near a large hall1 painted white1 red1 and yellow1 consisting of a small apartment and a kitchen1 the whole in a most dirty1 neglected1 and desolate condition4 ,at this point the ,moslems must have accomplished certain prayers1 before they can climb the hill and proceed to visit the tomb4 ,over the door of this singular house of prayer some words are likewise engraved in the ,arabic character1 which1 however1 are now entirely illegible4 ,on quitting the ,malay ,krammat1 we next undertook a tolerably difficult walk to the ,downs or sand-dunes1 which at this point extend along the entire coast line1 on which the wax-berry shrub1 as already mentioned1 grows wild in vast quantities1 and visibly prevents the further encroachments of the moving sand4 ,the ,eerst ,rivier 7,first ,river7 may be regarded as the limit of demarcation between the sand-dunes and the soil adapted for vegetation4 ,the same evening the naturalists of the ,expedition left hospitable ,zandvliet1 though not till after they had been presented by ,herr ,cloete with a splendid collection of fruits indigenous to ,port ,natal4 ,having been everywhere received with distinction1 and enjoyed every sort of assistance in our researches1 we set out on our return so richly freighted with objects of natural history1 that the waggon1 as we drove through the wide streets of ,cape ,town1 presented such a various and substantial assortment of each as spoke volumes for the success of our journey4 ,every available corner was called into requisition to dispose of our prizes--even between the open windows hung suspended the bottle-shaped nests of the finch1 and the slender sticks that supported the tilt were entwined with gigantic festoons of flowers4 ,in a word1 the whole waggon1 with its variegated contents1 resembled a holiday-van on its return from a country excursion1 so gaily and cheerfully was it decorated4 ,during our residence in the ,cape colony1 severe depression existed among the agricultural inhabitants of the ,western and ,eastern districts1 in consequence of an epidemic which1 within two years1 had carried off #fd1hej horses 7draught horses1 mares1 and foals71 of the value of #ebe1jjj sterling4#ed ,many landowners in consequence entirely gave up rearing horses1 and turned their attention almost exclusively to the breeding of sheep4 ,the visitations of this malady are by no means of late introduction1 but hitherto they had made their appearance at such long intervals1 that but little attention was paid to them and people regarded their return without much alarm4 ,this disease of the horse1 usually endemic in ,cape ,colony1 assumed every twenty years1 owing to some inexplicable causes1 an epidemic character1 and on those occasions extended over an extensive area1 as happened with extraordinary regularity in the years #aghj1 #ahja1 #ahai1 #ahci1 and #ahed4 ,hitherto no further precaution was taken1 than1 so soon as the disease appeared1 to drive the horses from the grass pastures to their stables or covered sheds1 and there supply them with fodder1 the night dew being considered a main cause of the complaint4 ,a resident in ,stellenbosch1 indeed1 maintained that the dew which was deposited during the continuance of the disease tasted quite bitter1 and was of an unusual brownish tinge4 ,singular to say1 not the slightest symptoms of illness manifested themselves in the swine1 dogs1 and birds of prey which devoured the carcases of horses that died of the disease1 while the consumption1 whether boiled or roasted1 of mutton which was ever so slightly tainted with the mere germ of this malady1 never failed to produce the most mischievous consequences on the human species4 ,according to ,dr4 ,livingstone the same malignant ulcerous imposthumes were produced1 if even sound portions were used of the carcase of an animal that had died of this complaint4 ,these observations1 founded on innumerable examples1 run counter to the opinion of the ,french physicians and physiologists1 that the malignity of the poison in such cases becomes neutralized by the process of cooking4 ,considering the importance of the subject to a land-holding colony1 it could hardly fail that numerous individuals should devote themselves to elucidating the causes of this devastating epidemic2 but it must ever remain a striking and significant fact1 illustrative of the high standard of cultivation in ,cape ,colony1 that within a very few years #aab different authors published treatises respecting this complaint among the horses4 ,the result of these numerous researches was1 that the malady is epidemic1 but not contagious2 that horses driven into the stable before sunset1 and not permitted to go out to pasture till the dew has evaporated off the grass1 are as a rule exempted from attack2 that those horses which are kept at night in open pounds1 or in places where there are heaps of dung1 take the disease in a milder form than if suffered to roam at large day and night2 lastly1 that horses for which no covered shelter can be provided1 may with great advantage be sent to hilly localities and dry runs of land4 ,the practical remedy which was most resorted to1 consisted in immediate and prolonged bleeding1 pushed to actual exhaustion of the animal1 in the first stage of the malady1 as also the exhibition of #a drachm of tartar emetic and #b drachms of calomel1 or1 at a later stage1 of #cj grains of tartar emetic twice a day4 ,footnote #ed3 ,at the same time #ib1gic head of cattle 7draught oxen1 cows1 and calves7 fell a sacrifice to a disease of the lungs1 and we were assured that the original cause of this terribly fatal malady 7,pleuropneumonia7 is attributable to a bull having been imported from ,holland1 in the year #ahed1 in a diseased state4 ,the ,english public will remember the severe panic under which ,continental graziers1 and others connected with the cattle trade1 laboured during the years #ahed-ee and the commencement of #ahef4 ,illustration3 ,,tsetse ,,fly4 ,another appalling scourge of the settlers in the south-west district of ,cape ,colony is a minute1 almost imperceptible insect1 of terrible omen1 the tsetse-fly 7,glossina morsitans71 a puncture from which produces such terrible destruction among horses and cattle1 that several runs of land are uninhabitable--nay1 even the mere passing through districts which they frequent1 proves fatal to the draught beasts of the caravans4 ,this insect is principally encountered in copses and brushwood1 very seldom in the open country1 and is about the size of a common house fly1 but with wings a little longer4 ,in colour it resembles the honey bee4 ,the tsetse is uncommonly active1 and usually escapes all attempts to catch it with the hand2 but in the cool of the morning or evening it is less active and quick in its movements4 ,the poison which it carries is so powerful that the bite of three or four individuals is sufficient to kill the most powerful ox4 ,many animals1 especially such as appear perfectly sound or in the best condition1 die speedily after being bitten1 but the majority are ill for an entire week1 and usually become blind before death4 ,one remarkable circumstance is that the bite of these insects is fatal to dogs1 even when fed with milk1 while calves and other young animals1 so long as they are sucking1 remain perfectly exempt from the malefic powers of the tsetse4 ,it is especially noticed that the danger seems to be confined to domesticated animals1 while such as are wild or only half reclaimed1 such as buffaloes1 zebras1 jackals1 oxen1 horses1 and wild dogs1 have not the slightest occasion to dread this insect2 nay more1 it attacks man himself without the least ill consequences4 ,the sensation which their bite produces on the hand1 or other portion of the human frame1 would be confounded by any one travelling in the tsetse district1 with that of another minute and most troublesome1 though by no means dangerous insect1 the flea4 ,fortunately the tsetse-fly has an appointed circuit to range in1 in the south-west of the ,cape ,colony1 which it never changes or extends4 ,the landowner may erect his cattle-pound on one side of the stream in perfect security1 although the opposite bank may resound with the hum of swarms of these insects4 ,when the natives1 who are acquainted with the localities in which the tsetse-fly abides1 are compelled1 as they constantly are1 to shift their ground1 and1 in changing their pastures1 to transgress upon the district of the tsetse1 they usually select the moonlight nights of winter1 when the insect1 during the quiet hours of the cold season1 is not likely to molest their charge4 ,many travellers whose draught oxen and horses have been killed by the ravages of this insect1 are annually not merely frustrated in their journey1 but1 it appears1 have their personal safety seriously imperilled by being deprived of all means of locomotion4 ,anderson1 in his admirable work upon ,lake ,ngami1 relates that some twenty aborigines of the ,griqua race1 who had been elephant-hunting in the north-west of that lake1 and were provided with three large waggons and numerous oxen and horses1 found1 on their return to their encampment1 that they had lost the whole of their cattle-team by the bite of the tsetse4 ,so1 too1 ,dr4 ,livingstone1 during a short journey over a district frequented by the tsetse1 lost forty-three strong and useful oxen1 although by dint of great vigilance scarcely twenty flies had been able to settle among the entire herd4 ,we have dwelt at length on the description of the ravages caused by this so much dreaded insect1 with the view of pointing out the numerous and amazing difficulties which present themselves to the traveller or settler in certain localities1 and how often not only wild and rapacious animals1 but even small1 hardly perceptible insects endanger the life of the wanderer1 and render large tracts of lands valueless for settlement4#ee ,footnote #ee3 ,most valuable comprehensive details1 as to the natural history of the tsetse-fly1 its ravages1 and its migration into the districts which it frequents1 are to be found in the ,transactions of the ,royal ,society1 ,volume ,,xx41 page #adh2 ,proceedings of the ,london ,geological ,society1 page #bag2 ,charles ,john ,anderson's ,lake ,ngami2 or1 ,explorations and ,discoveries during ,four ,years' ,wanderings in the ,wilds of ,western ,africa1 ,london1 #ahef2 ,dr4 ,livingstone's ,missionary ,travels and ,researches in ,south ,africa1 ,london1 #aheg4 ,the agent of the ,london ,missionary ,society at the ,cape of ,good ,hope1 the estimable1 highly respected ,dr4 ,thompson1 gave us a small piece of a root called fly-root1 which is considered to grow from a parasite1 and a decoction of which is reckoned by the aborigines an antidote to the bite of the tsetse-fly4 ,unfortunately the requisite material was not in sufficient quantity to admit of determining the plant itself1 or of instituting further researches with it4 ,no stranger can well leave ,cape ,town without having visited ,constantia1 the chief seat of the wine cultivation of the country4 ,accordingly we had a day of exceedingly pleasant relaxation while visiting ,high ,constantia4 ,mr4 ,james ,mosenthal1 the very hospitable ,austrian ,consul1 had carefully selected the most beautiful spot in the immediate vicinity of ,cape ,town1 the charming residence of his friend ,mynheer ,van ,reenen1 at which to get up a splendid fte champtre on an extensive scale1 in honour of the visit of this the first man-of-war that had borne the flag of our country into these remote seas4 ,the entire staff of our frigate was invited1 and over a hundred guests1 comprising the flower of the fair sex of ,cape ,town1 took part in the festivities4 ,immense four-horse coaches conveyed the company in the forenoon to the hill of ,constantia4 ,the company wandered at leisure under the gigantic oak trees1 or in the beautifully laid-out garden of this extensive domain1 and after a sumptuous djeuner1 the majority set to dancing4 ,a small orchestra of stringed instruments played alternately with the ship's band in the garden1 and in the tastefully decorated apartment4 ,those who did not care to dance1 or whom a burning afternoon sun prevented from walking in the open air1 might escape into cool and most elegant cellars1 where our hospitable entertainer had stored large quantities of spiritual treasures4 ,the costly nectar which the ,cape1 and especially ,high ,constantia1 produces1 finds its way but seldom to ,european tables1 because the quantity produced is very much below the demand2 for although the first cultivation of the grape for wine dates in ,cape ,colony so far back as #affh1 the wine manufacture has only of late years expanded in a marked degree1--viz41 #de per cent4 from #ahee to #ahef1 and #gj per cent4 from #ahef to #aheg1 so that at present the entire quantity produced of red and white ,cape wine 7,pontac and ,frontignac7 may be stated at #bd1jjj pipes1 worth #chj1jjj sterling4 ,at the conclusion of the fte we sat down to a splendid banquet in the open air1 in a shady avenue1 so as to admit of all the guests sitting at one long table4 ,at the upper end1 under the umbrageous boughs of some venerable oaks1 that towered like a canopy overhead1 fluttered the flags of ,england and ,austria4 ,the mayor of ,cape ,town occupied the chair2 the toasts customary on such occasions were given and responded to1 allusion being made to the pleasure felt at the arrival of an ,austrian man-of-war1 as also to the gratitude of the members of the ,expedition for the hearty welcome prepared for them1 and expressing an earnest hope that both ,governments may ever continue faithfully allied1 as both nations are1 by descent1 sympathy1 and intellectual pursuits4 ,a few days after this splendid entertainment1 we returned to ,simon's ,bay1 whence the ,novara was already preparing to sail4 ,the several weeks' stay of the frigate at the little settlement of ,simon's ,bay1 together with a certain quantity of repairs1 had called forth a most unwonted briskness of business4 ,amid so circumscribed a population1 the sudden influx of more than three hundred additional consumers1 with their varying wants1 speedily made itself perceptible in every class of the community1 the more so as most of the heavy stores for the voyage were bought here1 so that the sum set in circulation during these few weeks amounted to some #b1jjj4 ,at the same time the ,expedition were readily permitted to contribute a mite towards building the ,catholic ,church in ,simon's ,town1 and to present some priests' garments1 altar cloths1 and church fittings1 which had been intended by the ,austrian ,government for distribution among four ,catholic ,missionaries in the various quarters of the globe visited4 ,some members of the ,expedition also set out on an excursion some thirty nautical miles1 to where the peninsula of the ,cape stretches out to the real ,cape of ,good ,hope itself--a longer1 more difficult1 but also more interesting expedition1 which gave fresher impressions1 and conveyed a pretty accurate and more just idea of the physical features of the ,peninsula of the ,cape1 its vegetation1 zoology1 and geological structure1 than could be obtained by a cursory examination1 of the natural features of a large portion of ,south ,africa4 ,for whoever has clambered up the torn1 broken1 rocky masses of ,table ,mountain1 worn out and eaten away by the atmosphere1 and has scrambled among its wild hollows1 with its forests of the greyish green ,pratea ,gargentea at his feet1 amid its far extending rocky plateaux1 full of stagnant water-pools2 whoever has strayed thence among the wine-producing terraced hills of ,constantia1 with their rich vegetation2 over the sandy table-lands backed by rocky ridges1 over streams of copper-coloured water1 and the boggy tracts that extend to the extreme south-west point1 as far as the ,sandstone rocks1 #hjj feet high1 which1 descending sheer into the tempest-tossed1 fearsome1 boiling ocean1 constitutes the actual ,cape of ,good ,hope--obtains a tolerably just and correct idea of the appearance of ,southern ,africa for one hundred miles into the interior1 and along the coast line1 #djj ,english miles in length1 which stretches from ,st4 ,helena ,bay as far as the ,river ,samtoos1 west of ,algoa ,bay4 ,all is sandstone or clay-slate1 with occasional granitic knobs cropping out2 no trees1 but such as are planted in clumps around the sparsely scattered farms1 conspicuous from an immense distance2 while1 on the other hand1 in spring1 an indescribable flush of blossoms and flowers1 and instead of trees1 millions of ant-hills1 with their regularly shaped cones from three to four feet high1 impart a peculiar character to the landscape of ,south ,africa4 ,but on the so-called ,lowlands of ,algoa ,bay1 beyond the ,river ,samtoos1 ,nature assumes an entirely different character in her forest vegetation4 ,unfortunately1 the original designs of the geologists of the ,expedition1 of ,examining the petrified treasures of this renowned district1 fell through1 which was all the more to be regretted as this geological ,eldorado promised a great accession to our collection4 ,during our stay at ,simon's ,town1 we also experimented with our astronomical instruments1 which1 at our next station1 ,st4 ,paul's ,island1 were to be brought fully into requisition for the first time4 ,on this occasion1 as on many others1 the unfailing courtesy and kindness of the renowned astronomer and director of the ,observatory of ,cape ,town1 ,mr4 ,thomas ,maclear1 assisted us most materially in the observations for comparison with our own physical instruments4 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,,iv4--,,from ,,the ,,cape ,,of ,,good ,,hope ,,to ,,st4 ,,paul',s ,,island4 ,on the morning of the #bfth ,october it fell calm1 changing to variable breezes and light puffs of wind1 that made it doubtful whether we could sail that day1 as we needed a catspaw from the ,west in order to weigh anchor4 ,from the ,english line of battle-ship ,boscawen1 there floated across the bay as we worked out1 the ,austrian ,national ,anthem1 played as a farewell--a graceful mark of recognition--which was replied to by our band performing the sister hymn1 ,god ,save the ,queen4 ,we steered between ,noah's ,ark and ,roman ,rock1 coasting along till we made ,whittle ,rock1 but the wind shifting1 we were1 ere long1 compelled to tack4 ,had we not seized the favourable moment to get away1 it would1 a couple of hours later1 have been impossible to put to sea1 as the wind sprang up from the ,s4,e4 and blew fresh4 ,towards sundown1 the sky cleared up1 and we once more caught sight of the serrated outline of the southernmost point1 with its desolate1 worn1 hollowed-out1 rocky masses1 which1 however1 with the souvenirs of the hearty reception that had been accorded us in ,cape ,town seemed on this occasion much more home-like and habitable4 ,all of us1 indeed1 carried with us in our breasts the most cordial and agreeable reminiscences of the ,cape of ,good ,hope4 ,in spite of many drawbacks and deficiencies of physical requisites1 which oppose the rapid development of its natural resources1 ,cape ,colony possesses in its healthy climate its valuable indigenous products1 and its free political institutions1 a guarantee for its perhaps gradual1 but on that account more substantial1 progress4 ,it is a favourable specimen of a prosperous agricultural colony able to maintain itself1 whose inhabitants1 seeking in the peaceable cultivation of the soil their sole reward1 are exposed to none of those ruinous reverses of fortune1 which make life in those lands that are rich only in a metallic currency so stormy and uncomfortable1 and render their future so problematical4 ,a colony1 which already employs annually1 in its commerce all over the world1 a thousand ships1 which has a trade valued at nearly #b1jjj1jjj sterling1 and before long will be in a position to export #cj1jjj1jjj lbs4 of wool a year1 besides an unlimited quantity of wines already in great demand1 whose soil1 owing to its prolific nature1 returns1 under human cultivation1 crops of one hundred-fold1 while in its unexplored districts as many additional vegetable and mineral treasures lie unavailable as yet-- such a colony carries in itself the germs of a splendid development into a great and most enviable future4 ,provided with laws of a most liberal scope1 and institutions corresponding to the spirit of our times1 which leave each colonist entirely at liberty to develope his powers and capabilities in whatever direction he pleases1 ,cape ,colony must1 ere long1 stand forth as the pattern colony for all others in the different countries beyond sea1--a majestic monument of the reward so justly due to the ,english nation for its policy in promoting the moral and material progress of mankind in the most remote corners of the earth4 ,we lay a southerly course in order to strike the regular ,westerly winds1 which we might hope to fall in with in the neighbourhood of #dj ,s41 and already we again saw our old friends1 the albatross1 the cape pigeon1 and the stormy petrel1 in innumerable quantities4 ,by the evening of the #bhth we had attained our limit in the ,south-west1 but the ,west winds had not yet made their appearance1 so that we had to contend till #ast ,november with baffling light winds alternating with calms4 ,at length in #cg #cj' ,s4 and #ah #d' ,e41 we encountered ,westerly breezes1 which1 ere long1 freshened1 veered to the southward1 and compelled us to shorten sail4 ,we were at this time not quite as yet in the zone of ,west winds1 but had to do with variable winds2 which1 however1 as the prevailing winds must be west or south1 could generally be made available to enable us to lay our course for ,st4 ,paul4 ,although in the month corresponding to ,may in the southern hemisphere1 we found ourselves shivering with cold1 the thermometer barely reached #ah ,cent4 7#fdd ,fah47 during the day in the open air1 and our bodies1 accustomed of late to a milder temperature1 felt as though it were twice more rigorous than it actually was1 in consequence of the wind coming from the ice-bound antarctic regions4 ,on the afternoon of #dth ,november1 a great excitement arose on board2 a violent shower filled the lifeboats with water1 and a large black object was observed swimming in the sea4 ,fortunately1 it was not a man1 though it proved to be a great favourite that had fallen overboard4 ,bessy1 an ape1 had got loose from her chain1 and while being chased1 fell in her eagerness into the sea1 which fortunately was tolerably smooth4 ,the droll little brute had quickly made itself such a favourite with the crew from its comical attractive ways1 that its sudden fall overboard awoke universal sympathy4 ,a boat was lowered1 and ,bessy rescued1 who speedily recovered from her fright1 and although dripping wet1 proceeded to consume an orange that was handed her with an expression of entire satisfaction4 ,on reaching #dj ,s41 #ca ,e41 the ,west winds became more steady1 with a perceptible increase of motion1 giving an average of #cc feet as the height of the waves1 while the frigate rolled heavily4 ,sometimes several ,rollers would follow one after the other1 which made the ship heel over from #bj to #be on either side4 ,at each roll1 streams of water poured in upon the gun-deck4 ,the cannon-shot kept up a deafening dance from one side to the other1 while stools1 tables1 chests1 and in short everything that could move1 were unmistakably lively4 ,the temperature of the air during the night fell to #da ,fahrenheit1 and was felt yet more keenly in squalls accompanied by rain1 which made our life on board anything but agreeable1 although the certainty that we were proceeding favourably with the so-called ,fair ,westerly winds indemnified us in some degree for the discomfort4 ,on #adth ,november1 in #dj #dd' ,s41 #fj #h' ,e41 we availed ourselves of a dead calm and smooth sea to try a cast of ,brooke's ,patent ,deep-sea ,lead4 ,while at ,rio1 we had been supplied1 through the kindness of ,don ,jos de ,barnab1 ,commander of the ,royal ,spanish ,frigate ,bilbao1 with a large quantity of lead-line1 after an unsuccessful attempt to purchase it there4 ,unfortunately1 however1 the line had become somewhat decomposed by moisture1 and gave way at #f1agj fathoms 7#cg1jbj ,english feet7 while still running out1 so that on this occasion also1 we could only tell that bottom had not been reached with the portion of the line paid out4 ,the times occupied by the line in running out were as follows3-- #ast #ajjj fathoms #ae minutes #cf seconds4 #bnd #bf #ei #crd #cd #bj #dth #dc #be #eth #fa #e #fth #ge #ee ,and the last #agj #aa #dj ,total #f1agj #d hours #bi minutes4 ,to the apparatus two #cj-lbs4 shot were attached1 and the first #ajj fathoms of line were doubled4 ,by this observation we satisfied ourselves that such soundings are only successful when none but the best materials are employed1 and1 moreover1 that the line becomes deteriorated in an extraordinary degree by long stowage on boardship1 so that it is better in long voyages not to take such large supplies of line1 but to adopt most stringent measures to prevent its being weakened by damp4 ,very probably a light coating of tar over the line would tend to keep it in good preservation1 and it also seems advisable proportionately to strengthen the first #ejj or #ajjj fathoms4 ,on the #ahth ,november the look-out man descried from the main topgallant mast-head the ,island of ,st4 ,paul1 the goal of our wishes1 the object which had so long occupied our thoughts1 and on which our scientific capabilities were to be called into enviable activity4 ,the necessary arrangements were completed for facilitating astronomical observations1 the instruments and other necessaries taken out and got in readiness to be conveyed to the island1 and the various stations and duties of the different members specified1 so as to admit of the observations being completed in the shortest possible time4 ,on the #aith ,november1 at daybreak1 we found ourselves close in with ,st4 ,paul's ,island1 while on our port-side the outline of ,new ,amsterdam was visible in the shape of two lofty peaks on the horizon4 ,as the wind blew from the ,n4,w41 we kept the ship's course past the north promontory of the island1 and ranged along the eastern side to the selected anchoring ground4 ,as we doubled the northernmost point1 the conical-shaped ,nine-,pin ,rock came into view1 while the high and precipitous margin of the island in the ,n4,e4 with the entrance into the crater became visible4 ,how great1 however1 was our astonishment1 when we observed some neatly laid-out terraces1 of a fresher green hue than were observed in the upper table-lands of the island6 ,these were evidently spots cultivated by former or present residents in the island4 ,but no traces of habitation were seen1 whether of mankind or of the seal4 ,only flights of albatrosses1 bryons1 ospreys1 and sea-swallows1 with now and then the protracted screams 7like human groans7 of immense flights of penguins1 those singular-looking sea-birds1 which awaken so deep an interest alike for their striking appearance as by their mode of life4 ,an examination of the rock of the island showed layers of black lava1 alternating with yellow and red tufa1 which seemed stratified regularly from the rim of the crater to the extreme circumference of the island4 ,thirty fathoms1 and no bottom1 sung the wearied leadsman2 and presently1 ,thirty fathoms1--and a few minutes before #i ,a4,m4 the anchor rattled out1 on the #bdth day after we left ,simon's ,bay1 after retracing our steps ,eastward some #cjjj miles4 ,our anchorage1 as we afterwards became aware1 was not the best possible1 as we ought to have lain closer in to the island4 ,but when one anchors nearer the land in a less depth of water1 one is by no means more protected from storms sweeping in from seawards1 to which the entire eastern half of the island lies exposed4 ,only on the west side does the island1 with the steep margin of the crater some #gjj or #hjj feet high1 afford any protection against the west winds1 which1 however1 seldom blow here4 ,illustration3 ,,arrival ,,at ,,st4 ,,paul4 ,illustration3 ,,view ,,of ,,st4 ,,paul4 ,,vii4 ,the ,islands of ,st4 ,paul and ,amsterdam1 ,,in ,,the ,,south ,,indian ,,ocean4 ,former ,history4--,importance of the situation of ,st4 ,paul4-- ,present inhabitants4--,preliminary observations4--,to whom does the ,island belong8--,fisheries4--,hot springs4--,singular experiment4--,penguins4--,disembarkation 4--,inclement weather4-- ,remarks on the climate of the ,island4--,cultivation of ,european vegetables4--,animal life4--,library in a ,fisherman's hut4-- ,narrative of old ,viot4--,re-embarkation4--,an official document left behind4--,some results obtained during the stay of the ,expedition4--,visit to the ,island of ,amsterdam4--,whalers4-- ,search for a ,landing-place4--,remarks on the ,natural ,history of the ,island4--,a ,conflagration4--,comparison of the two islands4-- ,a rencontre at sea4--,trade-wind4--,christmas at sea4--,a man overboard4--,cingalese canoe4--,arrival at ,pont de ,galle1 in ,ceylon4 ,the visit of the ,austrian frigate ,novara to the ,islands of ,amsterdam and ,st4 ,paul1 so long confounded with one another1 was one of the cherished objects of interest to the immortal ,alexander von ,humboldt4 ,although ,st4 ,paul has been in very recent times visited and surveyed by illustrious ,english navigators1#ef and although the doubt hitherto existent as to the precise discoverer1 and the correct application of the names of the two islands1 has been set at rest by the discovery of the original log of ,antonio ,van ,diemen1 kept on his voyage from the ,texel to ,batavia 7#afth ,december1 #afcb1 to #bast ,july1 #afcc71 by which it is made plain1 beyond possibility of contradiction1 that that renowned navigator passed for certain on #agth ,july1 #afcc1 between both islands1 and conferred on the northern the name of ,new ,amsterdam1 and on the southern that of ,st4 ,paul2#eg yet the two islands still continue to present points of great interest on closer examination and observation4 ,of the various ships which1 since the discovery of those islands1 have visited them for scientific purposes1 hardly any have remained long enough to be in a position to acquire a thorough acquaintance with the various objects of natural history and scientific interest that present themselves4 ,even the visit paid by the naturalist attached to the expedition on board the ,english ship ,lion and ,hindostan which1 on the #bnd of ,february1 #agic1 touched at ,st4 ,paul1 en route to ,china1 and to whom we are indebted for the first detailed account of this island1 erroneously spoken of as ,amsterdam 7following the example of former ,english navigators71 did not come within the original design of that ,ambassadorial expedition4 ,it was the result rather of accident that1 as the ,lion and ,hindostan were passing close in with ,st4 ,paul1 two human beings were descried on the shore1 waving in the air a piece of canvas fastened on poles1 who apparently were anxious to convey to the expedition their desire to communicate with their ships4 ,it was supposed these were shipwrecked mariners1 stranded on this dangerous coast1 who regarded the arrival of the ,lion as an unexpected means of rescue4 ,to save these fellow-creatures from so desperate a position1 the ,captain of the ,lion declared to be a pleasing duty assigned by ,providence1 and rejoiced to have been selected as the instrument of their deliverance4 ,when1 however1 the boat of the ,british man-of-war1 which was despatched to take off the castaways and bring them on board ship1 had landed on the island1 the crew speedily discovered the singular delusion which all had laboured under4 ,the men1 whom motives of humanity had intended to rescue from this inhospitable place1 turned out to be anything but involuntary residents on the island1 being seal-hunters1 who for five months had dwelt here1 and purposed remaining ten months longer1 with the intention of completing a cargo of #be1jjj seal-skins1 for which at that time there was a very considerable and lucrative demand in the ,chinese markets1#eh and the signals which had first attracted their attention1 it now appeared were for no other object than to enable them to feel themselves once more1 after such an interval1 in the company of their fellowmen4 ,footnote #ef3 ,captain ,c4 ,p4 ,blackwood1 of ,h4,m4,s4 ,fly1 #ahdb1 and ,captain ,denham1 ,c4,b41 of ,h4,m4 ,surveying ,ship ,herald1 #ahec4 ,m4 ,tinot capitaine du long cours1 who visited ,st4 ,paul in the summer of #ahdd1 published likewise some interesting memoranda relating to that island1 in the ,nouvelle ,annales de la ,marine et des ,colonies1 for ,november1 #ahec4 ,footnote #eg3 ,previous to the resuscitation1 after considerable difficulty1 of this important1 indeed decisive document1 by ,mons4 ,l4 ,c4 ,d4 ,van ,dyk1 among the archives of the ,east and ,west ,india ,company of ,amsterdam1 of which he was ,librarian1 the utmost uncertainty prevailed as to the discovery1 name1 and geographical position of the two islands4 ,now1 ,william ,van ,flaming1 a ,dutch navigator1 was supposed to be the discoverer1--now1 the hardy ,van ,diemen4 ,atlases1 charts1 and books of travels1 spoke of the name ,st4 ,paul belonging1 here to the northern island1 there to the southern4 ,this long-continued confusion of names had naturally left ample space for the most contradictory statements as to the position1 conformation1 and geological conditions of both islands4 ,one traveller1 for instance1 describes ,amsterdam as an island with good anchorage on the ,north side1 and an extinct crater1 into which ran a fissure1 forming a natural link with the ocean2 while1 on the other hand1 he described ,st4 ,paul as a desert island1 with steeply sloping shores1 which make it matter of difficulty1 if not utterly impracticable1 to effect a landing2 while other voyagers1 again1 give directly contrary accounts of both islands4 ,compare the following3--,an authentic account of an ,embassy from the ,king of ,great ,britain to the ,emperor of ,china1 together with a relation of the voyage undertaken on the occasion by ,h4,m4,s4 ,lion1 and the ship ,hindostan1 ,e4,i4,c4,n41 to the ,yellow ,sea and ,gulf of ,pekin1 as well as of their return to ,europe1 taken chiefly from the papers of ,h4,e4 the ,earl of ,macartney1 c41 by ,sir ,george ,staunton1 ,bart4 7,london1 #agig71 vol4 ,i41 pp4 #bje-bg4--,rlation du ,voyage la recherche de ,la ,prous fait par l'ordre de l',assemble constituante pendant les annes #agia-ib1 et pendant la #are et la #b;de anne de la ,rpublique ,franaise4 ,par le citoyen ,la ,billardire1 ,correspondent de l',acadmie des ,sciences de ,paris4 ,au ,,viii4 de le ,rpublique ,franaise4 ,tome ,i4 pp4 #abj-abc4--;,johnston1 ,a4,k41 ,general ,gazetteer of the ,world 7,london1 #ahee74--;,hamburgh1 ,james1 ,india ,directory2 or1 ,directions for ,sailing to or from the ,east ,indies1 ,china1 ,australia1 and the adjacent parts of ,africa and ,south ,america 7,london1 #ahee74 #gth ,edition1 vol4 ,i41 p4 #aja4--,voyage to the ,south ,pole1 and ,round the ,world1 by ,captain ,jas4 ,cook1 ,r4,n4 7,london1 #aggg74 ,an interesting and tolerably circumstantial treatise on these islands is also to be found among the transactions of the ,imperial-,royal ,geographical ,society of ,vienna for the year #aheg1 second division1 pp4 #ade-ef1 by ,mr4 ,a4 ,c4 ,zhishman1 ,professor of ,geography and ,history1 in the ,i4 ,r4 ,nautical ,academy at ,trieste4 ,footnote #eh3 ,it seems1 says ,lord ,macartney1 that the ,chinese possess remarkable skill in the dressing of seal-skins1 by which they remove the long coarse hair1 so as to leave merely the soft tender skin1 and simultaneously manage to render the hide thin and pliant4 ,only the prospect of some such enormous profit could at any time induce human beings to pass fifteen months at a stretch on so ungenial a spot1 which1 moreover1 their occupation must render yet more loathsome4 ,they killed the seals as they basked in the sun on the rocks along the shore1 and around the broad natural rock basins4 ,as only the skins were of any value to them1 they left the flayed carcases exposed to rot on the ground1 and these lie heaped together here in such masses that it was difficult to avoid treading on them1 when one reached the shore of the island4 ,at every step some disgusting spectacle presented itself1 while an unutterably nauseous smell of decaying matter poisoned the surrounding atmosphere4 ,in the summer months the seals flock hither1 all at the same period1 in herds sometimes numbering #hjj to #ajjj1 of which usually only about one hundred are killed at a time4 ,this is the utmost number that five men can skin in the course of a single day1 it being necessary to peg them together on the spot1 on account of the drying up of the skin4 ,for want of the requisite vessels only an inconsiderable quantity of the train-oil1 which these animals contain1 is collected4 ,a portion of the best of the blubber is melted1 and serves these people in lieu of butter4 ,the seal which frequents these islands is the ,southern or ,falkland seal 7,arctocephalus ,falclandicus of ,gray--,phoca fusilla of ,schreber74 ,the female weighs ordinarily from seventy to one hundred and twenty pounds1 and is from three to five feet long1 the male usually considerably larger4 ,in their natural state these animals are not particularly timid2 sometimes1 indeed1 they plunge all together into the water when any one approaches them2 but quite as often they remain sitting quietly on the rocks1 or raise themselves erect with a menacing growl4 ,a sharp blow on the snout with a stick seems sufficient to kill them4 ,most of those that approach the shore are females1 the proportion they bear to the males being about thirty to one4 ,this apparent disproportion between the sexes1 according to observation hitherto1 is explained as follows3--,the ,southern seal at certain periods often undertakes distant wanderings from one tract to another2 and certain of these tracts1 such as the ,cape of ,good ,hope and the islands of ,st4 ,paul and ,amsterdam1 are only frequented by the females when about to bring forth1 and by the younger males of the school4 ,in winter the huge snouted seal1 or ,sea ,elephant 7,macrorhinus1 long snout1 elephantinus of ,gray--,phoca leonina of ,schreber71 which sometimes attains a length of twenty-five or even thirty feet1 comes in great numbers to these islands1 where they herd together like sheep in the natural coves which the coast is broken into1 in which the males announce the presence of a herd by a vehement growling1 deepening into a loud roar4 ,owing to the important situation of ,st4 ,paul1 midway between the southernmost point of ,africa and the ,australian continent 7from each of which it is about #caej miles distant71 a complete1 accurate survey of the island seemed of great importance1 not merely to the scientific world1 but also in the interests of navigation2 as most of the ships bound for ,china1 ,australia1 and ,new ,zealand1 as well as the ,east ,india liners1 pass pretty close to these islands1 especially during the winter season4 ,many captains trading in the ,indian ocean see in ,st4 ,paul an advantageous haven for recruiting the strength of their scurvy-stricken crews1 while the ships of others1 shattered almost to the point of foundering in the storms of a tract of ocean where for thousands of miles there is no other land1 can find here their only prospect of preservation4 ,for the voyagers on board the ,novara1 an interest of an entirely personal sort attached to their visit to the island4 ,among the unfortunates1 who on the #bdth ,august1 #ahec1 suffered shipwreck on the shores of ,new ,amsterdam1 in the ,british ship ,meridian1 was a native of ,brienz1 in ,switzerland1 named ,pfau4 ,this person1 together with the captain1 ,richard ,hernamann1 and a ,frenchman had disappeared1 leaving no trace1 when1 on the following morning1 the surviving passengers of the wrecked ship were rescued by a whaler that happened to be cruising in the neighbourhood4 ,it was supposed that the three unfortunate men had endeavoured to reach the adjacent island of ,st4 ,paul in a small boat1 and probably were still living there4 ,the father of the ,swiss made application1 through an indirect channel1 to the chief of the ,expedition1 earnestly requesting him on his visit to the island to institute some enquiries with the view of finding some trace of his ill-starred son1 still unwilling to renounce all hope that he might yet be found living at ,st4 ,paul4 ,we hove to about one mile and a half distant from the great crater-basin1 in whose eastern buttress a natural communication has been opened with the sea through a breach in its side4 ,when the ,dutch captain1 ,william ,van ,flaming1 cast anchor before the island in #afig1 the wearing action of the waves had not yet completed this breach1 there existing at that period a dam of some five feet high between the sea and the cavity of the crater4 ,at present small boats can1 at any hour of the day1 pass into the crater-basin1 protected from the swell of the ocean by two natural barriers1 which leave between them a passage of about #cjj feet wide4 ,our last admeasurement gave a length of #fjj feet for the southern barrier1 and #ajjb feet for that in the north2 while the intervening water passage measured #cjf feet in breadth1 with a depth of #i4f feet at high water1 and from #b to #c feet at ebb tide4 ,on the north side of the entrance to the straits stands a lofty pyramidal rock1 called ,nine-,pin ,rock1 round which circle innumerable sea-fowl1 which to all appearance brood among the chinks and crannies of the rock1 while in the water below crowds of sharks lash the water into foam4 ,it must be highly dangerous hereabouts to be capsized in a boat1 as there would be little possibility of any one being rescued1 no matter how speedily assistance might be rendered4 ,scarcely were we anchored1 ere we in the ship perceived a boat approaching from the island1 which rapidly neared the frigate1 with three men who had taken up their abode in even this desolate wilderness4 ,our imagination deluded us with the pleasing idea that these three forlorn1 forsaken figures might be the long lost men wrecked in the ,meridian1 whom pitying billows might have wafted to this solitary island4 ,presently there stepped on deck by the side-ropes a grizzly figure1 with deeply-furrowed features and long1 grey beard1 clothed in a blue blouse and coarse linen trowsers1 that seemed to have weathered many a winter's storm4 ,this primitive-looking old man proved to be a ,frenchman named ,viot1 who had lived here for a considerable time as overseer of a fishing establishment on the island4 ,our first question had reference to the missing men from the ,meridian4 ,but how sore was our disappointment when the old sailor in the blouse told us he knew all the particulars of the catastrophe of the ship1 but that he had never come across the slightest trace of the three unfortunates whom we had enquired about4 ,viot had visited the island regularly every year since #ahda1 except that in which the ,meridian had been lost4 ,the fate of these three shipwrecked men must therefore remain for ever undetermined1 although1 considering the tempestuous weather which usually prevails in the ,indian ,ocean in the month of ,august1 it is highly improbable that a boat of such small dimensions as that to which the captain and his two unhappy fellow-travellers committed themselves1 could reach ,st4 ,paul1 which was distant #db miles from the spot at which the ship was wrecked4 ,about #aa4cj ,a4,m4 the naturalists1 accompanied by the officers appointed to assist in the scientific operations1 proceeded in two boats to the shore1 for the purpose of making some preliminary observations4 ,when we reached the bar there opened to our view1 covered with luxurious grass growing in tufts1 the walls of a majestic crater1 the exquisite regularity of the cavity of which left the exact impression of an enormous natural amphitheatre4 ,illustration3 ,,distant ,,view ,,of ,,crater-,,basin ,,of ,,st4 ,,paul4 ,on either side the ground rises nearly perpendicularly to a height of about #hjj feet1 which probably is likewise the average height of the walls of the crater4 ,on the north side of the basin1 a kind of terrace was seen low down1 with huts thatched with straw1 while on the shingle of the bar was planted a not very perpendicular flagstaff1 on which1 in honour of the arrival of a ship of war1 old ,viot had run up the ,french ensign4 ,as the ,novara's boat swept into the crater-basin1 he saluted with the proverbial courtesy of his nation1 which not even the rough occupation of a whale-fisher had been able to rub out of him4 ,viot had last come hither in the preceding ,march1 with a mulatto and a negro on board of a fishing craft1 named the ,alliance1 of #de tons1 in which he had sailed from ,st4 ,denis1 on the ,island of ,bourbon1 anew to take charge of the little fishing station here1 which is at present the property of ,m4 ,ottovan1 a ,french gentleman domiciliated in ,st4 ,denis4 ,while at ,cape ,town we were informed1 in reply to our enquiries1 by the first authority in the country1 that the ,island of ,st4 ,paul belonged to ,england1 and was a dependency of the ,mauritius2 here1 to our astonishment1 we on the other hand learned from the inhabitants that ,st4 ,paul at present was under the protection of the ,french ,government1 and1 in fact1 was an appendage of the ,island of ,bourbon1 the governor of which long previously had ordered the ,french flag to be hoisted1 with all the naval formalities1 by a detachment of ,french soldiers who had been landed from a ,french ship of war4 ,according to ,viot--who is to all appearance a thoroughly trustworthy man1 but on whom1 however1 we throw the responsibility of the correctness of the following information1--the island seems1 in fact1 to have been1 some twenty years since1 the property of a ,french merchant of ,st4 ,denis1 named ,camin1 who somewhat later entered into partnership with a person named ,adam1 a ,pole by birth1 to whom he ultimately resigned the entire island4#ei ,adam1 who was described to us as a man of exceedingly fierce and determined character1 did wonders for the cultivation of the island4 ,he left a number of ,mozambique negroes1 whom he compelled to work through the entire year1 exposed to the severest privations1 and employed in hewing stone from the rocks1 with which huts were erected1 in preparing a landing-quay on the north side of the basin1 and in sowing a number of plots of ground along the lower margin of the crater with ,european vegetables4 ,footnote #ei3 ,according to ,captain ,denham1 who visited this island in #ahec1 the present proprietor called this fishing station1 ,marie ,heurtevent1 and said he had bought it about five years previously for #fjjj dollars from a ,polish merchant of ,st4 ,denis1 where he himself also resided4 7,nautical ,magazine1 pp4 #fh1 #ge74 ,about eight or ten years since1 ,adam 7who afterwards1 in the course of a voyage from ,bourbon to ,new ,zealand1 met a disgraceful death1 having been thrown overboard for his cruelty by the black crew of a small vessel1 whom he had driven to desperation7 sold the islands to their present possessor1 ,m4 ,ottovan1 a ship-chandler of ,st4 ,denis1 who since then has twice each year1 during the fine season1 despatched a small craft of some #cj to #de tons1 manned by from #ae to #ah fishermen1 from ,st4 ,denis to ,st4 ,paul ,island1 so as to turn to advantage the unusual abundance of this fishing-ground4 ,this vessel leaves ,st4 ,denis regularly every ,november on its voyage of from #bd to #cj days to ,st4 ,paul4 ,the return voyage to ,st4 ,denis takes place during the prevalence of the ,south-,east ,trades1 and occupies a much shorter time1 rarely exceeding #ad to #af days4 ,the fishing sloop1 during its stay at the island1 anchors inside the basin of the crater1 so as to discharge her provisions for the fishermen1 and to facilitate the freighting for the homeward voyage with the fish that have been caught1 as also to guard her against sudden changes of weather1 which in these latitudes1 as we ourselves experienced1 is1 even during the best season1 very stormy and dangerous4 ,the fishermen use the excellent whaleboats 7or baleinires71 so admirably suited to the heavy swell of the ,indian ,ocean1 in which they go out in the morning1 returning to the shore at nightfall4 ,the species of fish which is found in greatest numbers1 and is caught exclusively by the hook1 is usually called by the fishermen1 ,indian ,cod3 it is by no means1 however1 of the genus ,haddock1 and very slightly1 if at all1 resembles the codfish of northern waters1 or common stock-fish1 but seems to belong to the class of finger fish 7cheilo-dactylus-fasciatus71 which is usually classed among the crow fish 7scin74 ,these are salted1 dried in the open air1 packed in casks1 and dispatched in large quantities to the markets of ,st4 ,denis4 ,it is calculated that the number thus sent off in the course of each year amounts to about #dj1jjj4 which are sold in the market of ,st4 ,denis by the hundred1 for from #dj to #fj francs 7#a #abs4 to #b #hs4--total #fdj to #ifj74 ,the expenses of maintaining the settlement is very small4--,viot has #eg francs a month 7#b #fs472 his two companions #dj francs and #be francs respectively 7#a #abs4 and #a72 the men engaged in the fishery receive #be to #cj francs a month1 besides provisions4 ,the second voyage of the vessel ordinarily takes place in ,january or ,february1 so as to return in ,april or ,may1 with a similar cargo4 ,it often happens that the owner of the vessel finds some more profitable employment for it1 when it only returns during the second year1 and their provisions1 as meal1 rice1 biscuit1 tobacco1 c41 get rather short4 ,the settlers1 however1 employ what leisure time remains after their work is done1 in cultivating a number of plots of ground with cereals and vegetables1 potatoes especially returning from time to time an excellent yield4 ,of these useful tubers1 which grow with remarkable luxuriance in the turf-soil of the island1 they raise from #fj to #hj cwt4 annually4 ,fresh vegetables being articles in great request are more particularly made available by the inhabitants of ,st4 ,paul1 by way of barter1 when trafficking with the whalers1 from #bj to #cj of which touch here in the year1 to exchange their salt fish1 rice1 tobacco1 cheese1 brandy1 c41 for the fresh provisions grown on the island4 ,the number of vessels that pass within sight of ,st4 ,paul in the course of a year may be reckoned at from #ajj to #aej1 of which1 however1 only a very few1 except the whalers1 visit the island4#fj ,in the year #aheg1 for example1 it occurred only twice 7one case being an ,english man-of-war71 that passing ships sent boats to the island1 five months of the year having elapsed in the first instance1 and two in the second4 ,footnote #fj3 ,all the ,dutch ,indiamen on the home voyage from ,batavia1 during the months of ,october till ,may1 have been for many years in the habit of running south till they sighted ,st4 ,paul1 so as to catch the ,s4 ,e4 ,trades4 ,but it has never been the policy of the ,dutch to attract attention to the eastern seas1 and accordingly no information found its way to ,europe respecting these interesting islands1 till the period mentioned in the text4 ,when the take of fish in the immediate vicinity of the island does not seem sufficiently remunerative1 the fishermen occasionally launch out to greater distances4 ,they then bring out from the basin of the crater the barque that brought them from ,bourbon to ,st4 ,paul1 and remain at sea for several days1 or make for the adjoining island of ,amsterdam1 the shores of which are even more frequented by the fish than those of ,st4 ,paul4 ,as already remarked1 our first movements were directed solely towards an examination of its physical features4 ,we were accompanied on this tour of inspection by ,ferdinand1 an active1 intelligent ,mulatto1 with thoroughly ,french manners4 ,the ,french stock has this peculiarity as compared with the ,german1 that it remains unmistakably ,french1 even when mixed with two-thirds ,african blood4 ,ferdinand was for the first time in ,st4 ,paul1 having been conveyed hither in the ,alliance in the previous ,march1 to work for ,m4 ,ottovan4 ,family troubles had been the cause of his banishment to this dismal island4 ,although only #bd years of age1 he was already the father of two children1 whom1 he informed us1 he had placed at school in ,st4 ,denis2 and in sheer despair at the worthless conduct of their mother1 had hired himself hither as a labourer at #dj francs a month1 paid by the owner of the island4 ,he proposed returning to ,st4 ,denis in the next ship that left ,st4 ,paul1 in the hope that peace might be by that time restored in his family4 ,at various spots in the lower rim of the crater-basin1 within which ,ferdinand acted as guide1 we perceived heavy volumes of smoke emerging from the shallow parts of the water1 which obviously implied the existence of hot springs4 ,the two most active and largest in circumference were on the north side of the crater-basin1 and were known1 the one as the ,bath1 the other as the ,drinking ,fountain4 ,moreover1 at several points on the north bar1 hot water bubbles up from the soil1 of such a temperature that the same person who1 with a hook and line had caught a fish in the cold water basin1 might1 with the same motion of his hand1 let them drop into the hot adjoining spring1 where1 in fact1 it is boiled within a few minutes and fit for eating6 ,we have ourselves made this experiment1 which is also mentioned by ,lord ,macartney1 and found the fish thus prepared exceedingly palatable4 ,at high water the whole of the hot springs become mingled with the brine of the ocean1 and thus indicate a temperature which is barely perceptibly higher than that of the latter4 ,adjoining the landing-place1 several late visitors to the island have endeavoured to perpetuate the record of their fleeting presence on some compact granite blocks of rock1 which are scattered in the path to the hot springs4 ,thus1 on one of those stones1 fast becoming obliterated by the weather1 may be read3--,savouret1 #ahda-- ,j4 ,d4 ,rogers1 #ahee1 ,mars4--,on a second huge block3--,hte4 ,rogers1 #aheb to #aheg2 and lastly1 these names1 with difficulty decipherable1 ,pallefournier-,emile1 ,mazarni-,denoyarez1 ,grenoble1 ,canton de ,sassenage1 ,dpartement de l',isre1 #ahdd4 ,in general we found none of the inscriptions on the island that can be recognized4 ,on reaching the plateau above1 which is reached by a narrow1 steep1 and in many places rather fatiguing path1 from the settlers' huts on the north side of the basin of the crater1 we came to a breeding-place of the yellow-tufted ,crested or ,hopping-,penguin#fa 7apterodytes chrysocome7 in which we found at the lowest estimate from #ejj to #fjj of these singular creatures1 which are adorned with grey-yellow tufts of feathers arranged in a semicircle above the eyes1 and which1 as was well remarked by the naturalist attached to the ,lion1 with the peculiar plumage and the almost scaly covering of their fin-like wings1 suggest a remote resemblance to the form of a fish4 ,living part of the year in the water1 and passing most of the remainder on land1 ,nature has1 in a manner1 adapted them for these widely differing modes of life4 ,the dirty greyish-brown attire of the young contrasts so strongly with the gay plumage of the old penguin1 that at the first glance they hardly seem to belong to the same species4 ,the females lay only one or two eggs1 usually in ,october1 so that at the time of our visit1 the young were only about a month-and-a-half or so old4 ,these penguins1 so graceful and nimble in the water1 as if it were their proper element1 are very awkward on land1 so as to be easily caught1 or knocked down with a stick4 ,only in so doing it is necessary to be on one's guard against a blow from their long sharp bills1 with which they can inflict on their pursuer a by no means trifling wound4 ,in the course of centuries1 during which they have paid undisturbed visits to this island1 they have trodden a well-marked path from their breeding-place to the edge of the sea2 and it is a proof of the wonderful instinct of this creature1 that this place is almost the only point on the entire island1 at which it would be possible for it to reach the sea4 ,a flock of these hopping penguins presents an odd and peculiar appearance1 as1 after leisurely bathing in the sea1 and providing a sufficient supply of food for their young1 their elegant heads emerge from the water1 when carefully calculating the effect of the breakers1 they ride their crest and allow themselves to be deposited on the beach2 or1 after hopping from stone to stone1 the plumes on their heads nodding to and fro1 suddenly plunge headforemost into the sea1 like so many somersault-throwers6 ,not less diverting are the movements of these animals when1 returned from their laborious wanderings1 which they undertake two or three times a day in search of food for their young1 they bend their tottering steps back to the roosting-place1 waddling in their walk like ducks4 ,one always leads the way as guide and forager-in-chief1 and the rest1 usually from ten to fifteen in number1 follow him in a column2 on reaching the roosting-place1 a piece of level winding ground1 they give a shrill cry1 and comport themselves anything but peaceably towards their neighbours1 especially if these have possessed themselves of their accustomed seats4 ,continual squabbling and disputing go on1 and their croaking and screaming are prolonged far into the silence of night4 ,they show much tenderness for their young1 shelter them with great care1 and defend them with extraordinary courage and pertinacity against the southern hawk gull#fb 7stercorarius antarcticus71 which frequently swoops upon the breeding-ground1 and even ventures within reach of man1 from whom it defends itself by violently striking and biting with its beak4 ,always at war under ordinary circumstances1 they are nevertheless the most faithful of allies in moments of common danger or necessity4 ,the flesh of the old penguin has so rank a smell that it is only used by those frequenting the island in case of the most extraordinary necessity2 that of the young1 on the other hand1 has a far more agreeable flavour4 ,footnote #fa3 ,called also the ,jumping ,jack by the ,english sailors1 from its custom of jumping quite out of the water1 like a porpoise1 on its encountering the slightest obstacle4 ,footnote #fb3 ,called by the ,english sailors ,port ,egmont ,hens from their frequenting ,port ,egmont in the ,falkland ,isles4 ,they seem to be identical in species with the skua1 or bonxie of the ,shetlands4 ,the breeding-place of the penguin is about #cjj feet above the level of the water in the basin of the crater4#fc ,four hundred feet more of laborious1 steep scrambling1 brings the adventurer to the plateau at last1 from the highest peaks of which he readily obtains a view of the greater part of the island1 which is utterly treeless4 ,at many places we found the ground quite warm1 and at one slimy tract1 about #fjj feet wide1 which was noticed by the naturalists on board the ,lion1 there was positive danger of sinking several feet into the hot1 yielding soil1 if we did not advance with great care4 ,on the other hand1 the fierce tongues of flame1 which ,lord ,macartney alleged were visible at night from the deck of the ship1 and which greatly resembled the celebrated nocturnal fires of ,pietra ,mala1 in the mountains between ,florence and ,bologna1 were nowhere visible1 at least during the time we were on the island4 ,footnote #fc3 ,a second breeding-place1 somewhat larger1 but much more inaccessible than that described1 occurs on the north-west side of the island4 ,there among rugged fantastically broken masses of rock1 these extraordinary creatures can sun themselves undisturbed1 and have hardly anything to dread from the destroying hand of man1 who could only get thither with much difficulty1 and not without peril to life1 by clambering along the face of a precipitous wall of rock4 ,on the north-west side of the islands1 facing the sea1 two lofty pinnacles of scori1 with truncated summits1 rise in cones of such exquisite regularity of form as speedily attracted the attention of our geologist1 and became somewhat later the chief scene of his activity4 ,in the immediate vicinity1 many traces of lava-streams are visible1 which plainly show the direction in which their currents had flowed4 ,from the upper edge of the great basin of the crater the ground slopes gradually to the sea1 ending abruptly in a precipice1 descending sheer #aej or #bjj feet into the sea4 ,in order to avoid retracing our steps by the same path1 we directed our guide1 the ever active ,ferdinand1 to conduct us back to the shore by some other track than that by which we had clambered up to this point2 whereupon he stopped at a point of the upper rim of the crater1 where the ground fell suddenly away quite perpendicular1 grasped the rich luxuriant grass hand over hand1 and having proceeded a few steps1 invited us to follow4 ,at the first glance we involuntarily recoiled at the bare idea of descending into the abyss by such a route1 but presently we found our advance less dangerous and appalling than had at first appeared1 when it was found we might1 without any misgiving1 let ourselves down by the long tough grass1 the strong stalks of which supplied a safe means of descent4 ,in less than three-quarters of an hour we had descended from the upper margin of the crater to the settlement1 and at once proceeded on our return to the frigate4 ,a pretty fresh ,n4,w4 breeze had sprung up in the meantime1 which rendered our re-embarkation in our small short boats1 totally unsuited to the tremendous swell of the ,indian ,ocean1 exceedingly uncomfortable4 ,arrived at the ship's side1 the sea ran so high1 and had so increased the difficulty of laying the boats alongside1 that we at first endeavoured to reach the deck by the ,jacob's ladders suspended at the poop4 ,when1 however1 one of the sailors 7who confessedly have much greater readiness in clambering than ordinary mortals71 while holding on to one of the ladders1 was reached by a tremendous wave1 and half his body being in the water1 ran a risk of being carried off by a shark1 the scientific gentlemen in the boats preferred making for the starboard side of the ship1 whence they reached their haven of refuge by the man-ropes4 ,although this accident sufficiently manifested the impracticability of our original plan of returning every evening on board1 and of being able to remain beside the ship during the carrying out of the objects of our visit1 no man supposed as yet that1 at this season1 the summer of ,st4 ,paul's1 the weather might suddenly become so stormy and generally unfavourable1 as thus early to necessitate our re-embarkation1 and that the ship would be compelled1 with all speed1 to leave her anchorage1 and put to sea for a week under most uncomfortable circumstances4 ,on #bjth ,november1 about #f ,a4,m41 the officers and naturalists1 together with a portion of the crew1 #cb in all1 left the frigate with a large quantity of instruments1 scientific apparatus1 and baggage4 ,this little expedition was supplied with provisions and water for six days1 there being no springs of fresh water on the island1 the frequenters of which are compelled to depend for their whole supply of drinking-water1 partly on the rain-fall1 partly during long-continued dry seasons on the water of one of the hot brackish springs which occur on the north side of the lower circuit of the crater4 ,long accustomed to these fluids and to their peculiar taste1 the inhabitants feel no evil results from their employment1 which very probably would not be the case with those persons who visit the island for the first time1 and whose arduous exertions necessitate their drinking daily large quantities of water4 ,on a small eminence1 about #aej feet high1 above the fisherman's huts on the north side of the crater-basin1 a small wooden cottage was erected for the protection of the astronomers2 and at a distance of about #dj feet1 a second for the magnetic instruments1 both of which1 with their contents1 were entrusted to ,lieutenant ,robert ,mller4 ,lieutenants ,batlogg and ,eugen ,kronowetter1 were respectively entrusted with the observations by theodolite1 and with the surveying board4 ,to the last-mentioned gentleman were also confided the observations with the meteorological instruments1 the researches with the tide-gauge1 the instruments for measuring the velocity of currents1 as also the soundings in the basin1 and on either side of the bar1--to assist him in the execution of which ,cadet ,count ,borelli and ,head ,quartermaster ,cian were detached4 ,we quartered ourselves as well as we could in the wretched filthy huts which1 in summer1 serve the fishermen from ,st4 ,denis as a shelter4 ,in one of these hung several pictures--one representing ,napoleon ,i4 riding the inevitable white horse1 the majority consisting of female portraits and scenes of ,parisian life1 so that the whole place had quite a ,frenchified appearance4 ,hardly had the instruments1 apparatus1 men1 and baggage been placed under shelter1 when once more a strong north wind came on1 which1 during the night between the #bjth and #bast1 increased to such a height1 that it blew down the two huts intended for the observations1 which had not been quite finished1 and in which1 fortunately1 the instruments had not yet been placed--exposing the work already begun to very considerable interruption4 ,early in the morning1 a whaler approached the island1 and sent one of her boats off for fresh provisions4 ,she proved to be the ,herald1 of ,new ,bedford1 ,massachusetts1 ,u4 ,s41 out #bg months1 and expecting to require to remain out #aa months longer1 in order to complete her lading of oil and whalebone4 ,she was last from ,st4 ,augustin's ,bay 7,madagascar71 which place she had left two months previously4 ,when the captain1 who chanced to be in the boat1 saw the activity of the scientific corps1 the results of which were already beginning to be visible in the hitherto deserted island1 he said that one of his crew had fallen from the mast a few days previously1 and severely injured himself1 and forthwith asked whether we could render him any surgical assistance4 ,considering the precarious circumstances under which we ourselves were on the island1 we judged it more advisable to receive the unfortunate whaler on board the frigate1 where we could give him all necessary assistance4 ,as we afterwards learned1 the surgeon of the frigate1 ,dr4 ,ruschitztha1 notwithstanding the inclemency of the weather1 was ordered from the frigate1 and had the satisfaction of rendering valuable assistance to the invalid4 ,the foul weather continued all day1 and during the night of the #bast1 it became so tempestuous that the frigate was at last compelled to put to sea4 ,about #c4cj ,a4,m4 she began to labour heavily with an unusually high sea and frequent shifts of wind1 accompanied by showers of rain1 after a heavy blow from the ,n4,w41 so that at first it was thought on board that one of these furious gusts1 which for several hours past had followed each other at regular intervals1 had sprung the cable1 and that the anchor would be lost4 ,the jib accordingly was hoisted1 and the fore-topsail set with four reefs in it1 and an attempt made to weigh anchor4 ,this operation1 at all times laborious1 was now especially so1 and seemed as though it would never have an end4 ,although the capstan was manned1 as already said1 at #c4cj1 it was not till past seven1 or four hours later that the anchor hove in sight4 ,it was the port anchor that had been weighed1 and it was now perceived that one of the flukes had given way1 and was entirely broken off4 ,in such stormy weather it seemed very uncertain whether the anchor could be brought on board1 as it struck with much force against the ship-side1 in consequence of her severe rolling1 and it was only secured at great risk to the life of the men employed4 ,the cable was unbent1 and the anchor slipped1 so as to relieve the ship 7for which the anchor still on board was sufficient in the meantime71 from the vehement thumping4 ,the frigate now had to encounter a regular ,north-wester1 and only after three days of the most furious rolling or pitching1 was she able1 aided by northerly breezes1 again to reach her former anchorage4 ,the members of the ,expedition1 left at ,st4 ,paul to prosecute their scientific labours1 occasionally experienced a somewhat peculiar feeling when the frigate1 owing to the severity of the weather1 remained invisible during these three long days2 and fancy involuntarily depicted themselves in the position of men whom the stormy waves of destiny had cast away on this lonely island in the ,indian ,ocean1 there perhaps to languish for weary months out of reach of assistance or means of rescue4 ,old ,viot1 who had come for the sixth time to the island1 alleged that such rainy tempestuous weather at this season of the year was quite an unusual phenomenon1--an opinion which somewhat later was confirmed by the reports of several ,north ,american whalers4 ,ordinarily the fine season commences at the beginning of ,november1 at which period the ,south wind is the most prevalent1 the sky often remaining clear and hot for weeks together4 ,the hottest month of the year is ,january1 the coldest ,june4 ,from ,may to ,october it is exceedingly difficult to land with boats on the island1 and cases not unfrequently occur during the continuance of the stormy season resembling that which is instanced by the historiographer of ,lord ,macartney's embassy to ,china1 in which1 during ,september1 #agib1 a ship anchored on the east side of the island1 was only able twice1 during the lapse of eight weeks1 to send a boat to the island with provisions4 ,on this station the fishery is confined to the fine season 7from ,november to ,april71 while for the rest of the year the various huts of the fishermen are entirely abandoned1 being only inhabited by a couple of men1 in whose charge are left the few but by no means valueless implements and apparatus of the island4 ,these men lead a very monotonous life1 though not one of privation1 for the crater-basin supplies the whole year round the most delicious fish1 and craw-fish of the finest kind4 ,our sailors used to hang a basket with bait close to the edge of the crater-basin1 sunk a few feet in the water1 which they would draw out every time full of lobsters4 ,in a few hours they frequently caught from eighty to one hundred pounds' weight of these large and extremely delicate species of shell-fish4 ,an excursion which was got up one morning to the ,south side of the island1 in a fisherman's boat1 was rewarded in a few hours with some fifty different sorts of denizens of the deep1 some of which weighed twenty to twenty-five pounds each4 ,according to ,viot's account1 snow does not fall often in winter1 and in consequence of the heat inherent in the volcanic soil1 never lies long on it4 ,on the other hand1 hail is a tolerably frequent visitant4 ,rain is of constant occurrence1 and sometimes falls in immense quantities4 ,viot was never weary of expressing his astonishment at the enormous size of the drops of rain which for many a year he had seen fall at ,st4 ,paul4 ,the cold is often pretty severe2 while the almost entire want of firing on the island 7for the dung of animals is not obtainable in sufficient quantities to make its storing worth the requisite labour71 deprives the poor residents of the comfort of a fireside4 ,if the last storm had not blown down our hut1 we should for long have had to do without fuel1 was the nave remark on one occasion of the old ,frenchman1 as he lay stretched out on a dirty bed1 carefully rolled up in his rough woollen blanket4 ,winter begins in ,may and ends in ,september4 ,during this period the ,northerly winds are often very strong4 ,on #bgth ,june1 #aheg1 there blew for six or eight hours here so terrific a tempest that the inhabitants of ,st4 ,paul did not venture outside of their huts for fear of being rapt away by the wind4 ,these storms of winter occasionally rage to such a degree that they drive before them into the basin of the crater huge masses of water1 which they whirl in wild confusion to an enormous height1 showing that the tract in the ,southern ,ocean traversed by the hurricanes which occasionally do such damage about ,mauritius and ,rodriguez1 occasionally embraces the islands of ,st4 ,paul and ,amsterdam4 ,in ,november1 at the commencement of the fine season1 the winds are rather variable1 and so continue to the end of ,march1 when the ,n4 and ,n4,w4 winds begin once more to blow regularly2 these bring heavy rains and foul weather1 after which1 except that it is cold when the wind changes to ,west with a ,southerly tendency1 a warmer and drier climate is experienced4 ,during our stay we frequently had an opportunity of verifying by observation the steady return of certain winds in regular succession4 ,for instance1 after the ,n4,e4 wind had prevailed for some days1 it veered to ,n4,n4,w4 whence it invariably went to ,w4 by ,s41 where it usually stayed some little time1 after which it once more went to ,n4,e4--a phenomenon which went through its phases every six days with surprising regularity4 ,there are heavy mists during autumn1 but thunder on the other hand is far from frequent1 nor is it particularly violent when it occurs4 ,during a residence of eighteen days we never saw the centigrade thermometer stand higher than #ffb ,fahr41 or lower than #ecf ,fahr4 ,lord ,macartney gave #fb ,fahr4 as the average of the thermometer during his visit in ,february1 #agic4 ,as for earthquakes1 a phenomenon whose occurrence at ,st4 ,paul would possess an uncommon interest1 ,viot averred that during sixteen years that he had visited the island1 off and on1 he neither himself had perceived any indications of one1 nor had he at any time heard of any such having been observed4 ,on the contrary1 ,ferdinand 7who1 nevertheless1 had lived but eight months on the island7 affirmed that his predecessor1 ,rosemond1 had told him of shocks1 comparatively slight it is true1 which he 7,rosemond7 had felt during his several years' abode here4 ,considering the small circumference of the island1 and the violent surf on its shores1 slight oscillations may not improbably be felt1 which are caused by other than volcanic agencies4 ,moreover1 on the outer margin of the crater-basin1 the island presents at those numerous points1 from which at ebb-tide roll volumes of smoke and steam1 so many natural vents for the escape of the confined subterraneous gases1 that in their ordinary state1 and so long as they continue open1 in future1 there is no especial reason to suppose there will be any upheavings of the earth's crust in consequence of volcanic agencies4 ,the earthquake of #adth ,august1 #aheg1 which was pretty severely felt in ,cape ,town and the vicinity1 does not seem to have included ,st4 ,paul within the circle of its influence4 ,the present inhabitants of ,st4 ,paul1 at all events1 unanimously assert that they cannot recall having perceived1 either on the #adth ,august1 or at any time about that period1 any shocks of earthquake whatever1 or to have observed any unusual appearances either in the surface of the earth or in the atmosphere4 ,we purposely say at any time about that period1 because the inhabitants of the island do not avail themselves of that assistance so universal now-a-days of a printed calendar1 but trust to memory for keeping a reckoning of the flight of time4 ,that mistakes should frequently occur with such a method of computing time is rendered the more probable that not one of the three denizens of the island can write4 ,for instance1 we once remarked to our worthy ,viot that by his own reckoning he had marked one day more than he had actually lived4 ,we always get into a mess with these confounded months of thirty-one days6 was the good-humoured reply of the ancient wanderer from ,nantes4 ,although the volcanic soil of ,st4 ,paul is everywhere especially adapted for scientific study1 it nevertheless presents few objects with which to enrich collections of natural history4 ,an island1 on which not a single tree or bush is to be found1 and on whose tufa soil1 though well adapted for fruit1 only a few grasses1 ferns1 and mosses thrive1 must1 so far as regards the value of his researches1 prove as little interesting to the botanist as the zoologist1 who1 as we shall see more circumstantially further on1 came across but few representatives here of the animated kingdom4 ,at several places1 the practical gardener who accompanied the frigate was ordered to plant a number of ,european vegetables and anti-scorbutic plants1 such as cabbage1 horse-radish1 turnips1 of various assorted species1 celery1 garden-cress1 and spoonwort1#fd it is to be hoped with favourable results4 ,at all events1 we had the satisfaction during our stay1 of seeing the tender shoots of some of the vegetables already sprouting through the surface of the earth4 ,at that time there were not above a dozen or so cultivated spots on the ,island2 if1 however1 these are carefully cultivated1 they can always furnish enough excellent nourishing provision for from #hj to #ajj men4 ,a quantity of potatoes1 from #f to #h sacks1 planted in ,june1 yield1 in ,january or ,february1 a crop of from #fj to #hj casks of #ajj lbs4 each1 or between #c and #d tons4 ,footnote #fd3 ,the vegetables planted were as follows3--,brassica rapa 7rape72 ,brassica oleracea capitata 7sea kail72 ,brassica rapa alba 7white turnip72 ,brassica rapa flava 7yellow turnip72 ,raphanus sativus 7radish72 ,lepidium sativum 7dittandu72 ,cochleia officinalis 7scurvy grass74 ,wheat1 maize1 and barley1 also thrive at ,st4 ,paul1 and their cultivation has only been discontinued1 in consequence of their conversion into bread requiring a much larger amount of fuel than is at the command of the residents4 ,on the other hand1 all attempts to cultivate beans and peas have utterly failed hitherto4 ,all kinds of nutritive plants give but one crop in the year4 ,so also several kinds of trees1 which promised to grow well1 considering the resemblance between the climate here and that to which they were indigenous--such as ,pinus maritima1 various kinds of ,protea1 c41 and the successful rearing of which would ultimately prove an extraordinary benefit to all who frequent the island1 in consequence of the great scarcity of firewood--were planted as seedlings by the gardener attached to the ,expedition1 in the vicinity of the two huts used for the observations4 ,assuredly it will not be one of the least important benefits of the ,novara ,expedition1 which it will have conferred on ,st4 ,paul1 if the growth of the seedlings1 planted in its soil with such a noble purpose in view1 should result in the gradual and at all events partial clothing of the island in the forest4 ,as to the ,fauna of ,st4 ,paul1 there appears to be one kind of sea-swallow 7storna7 not hitherto described1 the bill and feet of which are of a coral-red colour1 and delicate silver-grey plumage1 undoubtedly the most beautiful of the feathered inhabitants1 as the penguin is the most extraordinary and peculiar creature on the island4 ,besides these there is also a pretty grey diver 7,prion ,vittatus71 which builds its nest among the rocks2 also a brown gull 7,stercorarius antarcticus71 as also three kinds of albatrosses 7,diomedea exulans1 ,d4 fuliginosa1 ,d4 chlororhinchos74 ,the ,crater-basin was somewhat less unproductive than the dry land4 ,the depth is from #ajj to #age feet4 ,close to the edge1 the sounding line gave a depth of #aj fathoms 7#fj feet74 ,experiments with the dredging-net1 although frequently made1 gave by no means satisfactory results4 ,on the other hand1 the rod and line brought up many an interesting addition to our collection1 and frequent strolls at ebb-tide along the barely uncovered masses of rock that skirted the basin of the crater were rewarded with numerous discoveries of specimens of conchology4 ,in the centre of the basin we came upon slimy ground at a depth of #bjd feet2 near the hot springs 7about #ajj feet distant71 #ai fathoms 7#aad feet72 and at a third point1 on the south side1 #bc fathoms 7#ach feet74 ,viot said1 that after repeated soundings at different points1 he had found the depth of the basin varied from #aj to #ce fathoms 7#fj to #baj feet74 ,the seals 7,arctocephalus ,falclandicus7 of which1 according to ,macartney1 at the end of last century1 thousands daily came to the coast of the island to bask in the sun1 have almost entirely disappeared1 so that these animals are very rarely seen or captured by the inhabitants4 ,even of the skeletons of these marine mammals1 which1 when the naturalists of the ,lion were roaming through the island1 used to lie about in such numbers that one could almost walk upon bones all round the crater1 not a vestige is left1 and one can hardly realize that formerly hundreds of thousands of these animals were slaughtered at this island4 ,almost all the quadrupeds of the island are domestic animals that have been brought hither from ,europe and the ,french colonies--such as swine1 goats1 cats1 rabbits--which at present live here in a wild state4 ,the goats1 which were first introduced in #ahdd1 are most numerous on the ,n4,w4 of the island2 the swine1 on the contrary1 are not so frequently met with4 ,during our residence1 a boar and a wild cat were killed2 a few days after1 the five young of the cat were found1 having been compelled to emerge from their lair in search of food4 ,a female hare1 which we had brought from ,cape ,town1 was also set free on the island1 and it was fortunate for the propagation of these useful animals that there was already a male hare on the island4 ,a pair of geese was also presented to the colonists1 which perhaps have continued to breed there4 ,as we thought the island was uninhabited1 it was originally our intention to leave several kinds of domestic animals of different sexes with a view to propagation2 and with that object1 when at ,cape ,town had made various purchases of useful animals2 but1 under the circumstances1 we relinquished this intention1 as there seemed but little chance of their being left undisturbed sufficiently long to secure the desired object4 ,occasionally cows would be landed from the whalers for the sake of the fresh fodder1 and taken away again after the lapse of a month or two4 ,the projected scientific operations of the ,expedition might easily have been carried out within eight days1 had we not been so obstinately persecuted with unfavourable weather4 ,violent north winds1 which rendered it impossible to make any use of the surveying-board in the open air1 alternated in an extraordinary manner with rainbows4 ,our astronomical observations were as yet nothing to speak of4 ,observations with the barometer1 thermometer1 current-measurer1 and tide-guage1 could alone be prosecuted1 the last of which especially gave the following interesting result1 that the hour of high water1 both at full moon and new moon1 is not #aa ,a4,m41 as given by ,horsburgh 7#gth edition1 ,vol4 ,i4 p4 #ajb71 but at #a4aj ,p4,m4#fe ,footnote #fe3 ,according to ,lord ,macartney1 the tide rises at full and new moon1 between #h and #i feet perpendicular4 ,a northerly wind always causes the highest tide1 the current of which is from ,s4,e4 by ,s4 to ,n4,w4 by ,n41 and has a velocity of about #c miles an hour4 ,the proper carrying out of the objects of the geognostic enquiries was hampered by unforeseen obstacles and difficulties4 ,one day the rain would be so heavy1 that the slight covering of our apartments would be insufficient to protect us any longer from the beating of the rain which fell in bucketsfull1 and began to leak through innumerable seams and cracks on to the beds1 tables1 and floor4 ,did any one think to shelter himself in the hut of a neighbour8--ere long there commenced a regular emigration1 which very speedily came to a conclusion1 by each and all having the melancholy satisfaction of perceiving that ,fortune had set to work with rigorous impartiality1 and had resolved to let each one of us feel the weight of her displeasure4 ,and so we passed the long dreary hours in our comfortless huts1 that gave free entrance to wind and rain1 with umbrellas outspread or wrapped in our ,india-rubber cloaks1 gazing moodily at the numerous cases full of valuable instruments1 which1 instead of being serviceable to science1 were1 by the loss of so many splendid opportunities1 doomed to inactivity4 ,illustration3 ,,rainy ,,day ,,at ,,st4 ,,paul4 ,fortunately1 all showed themselves animated by the utmost zeal for the undertaking and its successful issue2 and1 in a word1 each fresh avalanche of difficulties1 which sought to thwart our exertions and impair our forces1 served only to reawaken the energies and reanimate the confidence of each and all amid all our calamities4 ,so soon as the hovel we inhabited1 which had enabled us to make observations upon the direction and strength of the wind rather than secured us any accommodation for sleep1 had been in some degree restored to its original condition1 we availed ourselves of the slight improvement in the weather1 to examine a tolerably numerous collection of very beautifully bound books1 which were found stowed away in one of the recesses for books running into the four partitions1 and had in all probability much to dread from the rain-water trickling through the covering of the roof4 ,these had been brought hither by a former proprietor of the island1 and when it was sold were transferred with the rest of the stock of tools1 c41 to ,m4 ,ottovan1 who occasionally resided at ,st4 ,paul for a month or two1 but seemed1 so far as the condition of the books went1 rarely to meddle with them4 ,it was curious enough1 however1 to encounter in a lone desert island1 so many evidences of the most refined civilization1 so we shall cite in a note some of the most interesting of this library of about #aej different works1 which deserved a better fate than to moulder away undisturbed till they fell into dust4#ff ,footnote #ff3 ,among these were the works on ,natural ,history1 by ,charles ,bonnel 7,neufchtel1 #aghc72 ,j4 ,s4 ,laharpe's ,abrg de l',histoire ,gnrale des ,voyages1 ,paris1 #ahaf2 ,dacier's ,translation of ,horace into ,french1 with ,notes and ,critical ,remarks4 ,paris1 #ahaf2 ,de la ,flicit ,publique2 ou1 ,considrations sur le sort des ,hommes dans les ,diffrentes poques de l',histoire3 ,a4 ,bouillon3 from the ,printing ,establishment of the ,typographical ,society1 ,paris1 #aggf2 ,essay on the ,life of the ,great ,cond1 by ,louis ,joseph1 ,prince de ,cond1 at present in ,england1 ,london1 #ast ,may1 #ahjg2 ,prcis des ,journes #ae1 #af1 #ag1 and #ah ,juin1 #ahae1 ou ,fin de la ,vie ,politique de ,napoleon ,buonaparte1 par ,m4 ,giraud1 auteur de la ,campagne de ,paris en #ahad2 ,paris1 #ahae1 #ast vol4 #h2 ,histoire des ,guerres des ,gaulois et des ,franais en ,italie1 avec le tableau des vnemens civils et mlitaires qui les accompagnrent et leur influence sur la civilisation et les progrs de l'esprit humain4 ,depuis ,bellevise jusqu' la mort de ,louis ,,xii41 par lex ,adjutant-,gnral ,auguste ,jub1 tribun4 ,depuis ,louis ,,xii41 jusqu'u ,trait d',amiens1 par ,joseph ,servan1 ,gnral de ,division4 ,dedies ,s4 ,m4 l',empereur4 ,paris1 an4 ,,xiii4 7#ahje74 ,manuel des habitans de ,st4 ,dominique1 contenant un prcis de l'histoire de cette isle depuis sa dcouverte1 etc41 par ,s4 ,j4 ,ducoeurjoly1 ancien habitant de ,st4 ,dominique2 ,paris1 #ahjj1 an4 ,x1 #b vols4 ,less fortunate were we in our researches for any document which could in any way throw any light1 direct or indirect1 upon the former history of ,st4 ,paul4 ,the only piece of writing which we found that had reference to the island1 was a licence drawn up during the reign of ,louis ,philippe1 dated #bjth ,february1 #ahdf1 to ,m4 ,adam1 of ,st4 ,denis 7in the ,island of ,bourbon71 to proceed to carry out a certain undertaking in the schooner ,la ,mouche1 #cj tons' burthen1 under the protection of the ,french flag4 ,la ,mouche1 is the same boat in which ,viot had made so many voyages to and fro between ,st4 ,denis and ,st4 ,paul4 ,this document1 which the poor old ,frenchman drew out one evening from a drawer thickly strewn with dust1 insensibly led the conversation to the quondam owners of ,st4 ,paul1 and thence naturally to an enquiry1 on our part1 as to the number of graves which dotted this romantic offshoot of ,pre la ,chaise4 ,the climate is far too healthy1 and the island far too little frequented1 to admit of there being many graves in ,st4 ,paul1 replied ,viot4 ,of the blacks1 whom ,m4 ,adam had once worked so unmercifully on the island1 very many perished here owing to the severity of their treatment1 but no one knows where their bodies lie2--very possibly their bones lie scattered about the island1 like the remains of the much persecuted petrel 7prion turton71 which the predatory gull throws carelessly from him after he has stripped off the flesh1 and gorged himself on the most delicate morsels4 ,only two graves are known to the present residents1--one is the resting-place of an ,englishwoman1 who died on board a merchant-ship which happened to be near the island1 and whose grave was dug in the earth on the north side of the crater-basin2 the second covers the body of a ship captain1 who was accidentally drowned in the basin by the upsetting of a small boat1 as he was approaching the bar in heavy weather4 ,his grave is at a short distance behind the huts of the colonists1 and bears traces to this day of the solemn feelings with which it was erected2 an enclosure of large stones neatly arranged1 make the site and its object at once recognisable4 ,shipwrecks are unheard of at ,st4 ,paul2 at least1 none such have been known to occur since it has been occupied by man4 ,on the other hand1 they are of more frequent occurrence at the sister island1 as has very lately been evidenced by the catastrophe of the ,meridian4 ,however1 the elements are not always to blame for such lamentable occurrences4 ,ships are sometimes dashed to pieces on the shores of ,amsterdam in the finest weather1 so that one is almost induced to believe that these misfortunes are occasionally resorted to intentionally1 so as to realize some high insurance on a vessel which has probably already become half unseaworthy--a not very conscientious method of doing business1 of which1 however1 some of the natives of ,greece and the borders thereof are not unfrequently guilty4 ,in ,february1 #ahee1 a ,north ,american whaler struck upon the north-east side of ,amsterdam in a calm1 and with a clear sky overhead1 so that the entire crew1 #cj in number1 were able to secure the provisions and their kits4 ,the captain1 with one of the ship's small boats1 made for the ,island of ,st4 ,paul1 #db miles distant1 in the hope1 probably1 of getting assistance thence4 ,a lucky destiny so willed it1 that 7the accident having occurred in the finest season of the year71 a vessel of ,m4 ,ottovan's1 which by a strange coincidence was named ,l',ange ,gardien 7the ,guardian ,angel71 lay at anchor inside the crater-basin1 loading with fish4 ,the shipwrecked crew were indebted to his circumstance that1 within #ad days more1 they found themselves at ,mauritius4 ,a report circulated among the residents of ,st4 ,paul that the captain of the stranded ship had landed with some of his companions in a boat on the ,n4,e4 of ,amsterdam1 with the intention of searching for a sum of several thousand dollars which a previous visitant to this island was said to have buried there for some mysterious reasons4 ,while the captain was on shore1 vainly searching for a considerable time after the buried treasure1 the shipmaster left in charge in his absence came too near the island1 whereupon the vessel had been lost upon one of the numerous reefs which lie off the shore4 ,a part1 it was added1 of the buried money had1 in fact1 been recovered4 ,according to ,viot1 the captain had dug up #ajjj dollars 7above #bjj71 and one of his companions #cjj dollars4 ,at last1 on the morning of #crd ,december--the fifteenth of our stay at the island--the sky shone so brightly that one could1 with more probability than hitherto1 cherish the hope that the various operations we had been compelled to lay aside might finally be brought uninterrupted to a successful conclusion4 ,however1 the very wet day was again exceedingly unfavourable for open-air observations1 especially astronomical1 inasmuch as a pretty strong ,north-east wind incessantly drove over the island clouds of rain1 the very heaviest of which1 attracted by the mass of the island1 broke right over our heads4 ,fortunately this spell of bad weather did not last as long as the first2 and when1 on #fth ,december1 the ,novara once more made her appearance at the island1 and enquired by signals as to the progress made in our appointed work1 we were so fortunate as to be able to reply by the same means1 that the most important portion had been completed1 and that the officers and naturalists were ready to re-embark4 ,about #i ,a4,m41 the frigate anchored in #be fathoms1 close to the spot where the ,english ship ,fly1 ,captain ,blackwood1 lay in #ahdb4 ,it was the third time that the ,novara anchored off ,st4 ,paul4 ,twice before had she experienced unusually tempestuous weather1 which compelled her to sheer off from such a perilous coast1 and expose herself to be lashed for days together by the raging giant waves of the infuriated element4 ,one of the boats sent by the frigate to take us off to the ship1 brought at the same time some presents1 in memory of the ,expedition1 for the residents of the island1 who had been so hospitable and obliging during our stay4 ,the presents consisted of ship biscuit1 salted meat1 and various other edibles1 wine1 a musket1 woollen blankets1 clothes1 shoes1 tools1 medicines1 vinegar1 oil1 c4 ,the simple1 modest fellows were immensely pleased with these unexpected presents1 and ,viot especially seemed overjoyed on seeing a number of tools1 for want of which many of the repairs necessary in the interior of their anything but air-tight wooden habitations1 were daily becoming more apparent4 ,we left a book on the ,island of ,st4 ,paul1 in which the principal memoranda of what we had achieved were set forth in three languages 7,german1 ,english1 and ,french71 with the view of supplying to future scientific visitors1 data for further researches and observations1 and at same time incite them to prosecute these we had ourselves made4 ,we insert here this document1 which will yet give witness1 probably1 of the scientific activity of the ,austrian ,expedition at the ,island of ,st4 ,paul in the ,indian ,ocean1 at a period when those engaged in it will long since have voyaged to ,that undiscovered country from whose bourne ,no traveller returns4 ,the ,imperial ,austrian ,frigate1 ,novara1 #dd1 under the command of ,commodore the ,chevalier von ,wllerstorf-,urbair1 engaged in a voyage round the globe for scientific purposes1 anchored at nine in the morning of #aith ,november1 #aheg1 on the ,eastern side of ,st4 ,paul1 with the purpose of prosecuting astronomical1 magnetic1 meteorological1 and geodesical observations and measurements1 and at same time examine thoroughly the natural history of the island4 ,extremely unfavourable weather in great measure delayed the expedition2 and1 after having successfully carried out a series of observations and researches1 the results of which will in due time be published1 the officers and naturalists in charge of the various departments1 on the #fth ,december of the same year1 quitted ,st4 ,paul1 each bearing with him the most pleasing reminiscences of that interesting island1 and of its three poor1 but eminently kind inhabitants4 ,for the guidance of future observers the following memoranda may prove useful3-- ,i4 ,that the spot at which observations were taken was on a small eminence1 north of the huts of the colonists1 and which may be recognized by a small pyramid of stones1 on which the ,austrian ,expedition marked the observed latitude #ch #db' #ee'' ,s41 and the longitude #gg #ca' #ah'' ,e4 of ,greenwich4#fg ,further that3-- ,footnote #fg3 ,the time1 which we took from the ,cape ,observatory by four excellent chronometers1 gave1 on our voyage between the ,cape and ,st4 ,paul1 a period of forty-six days1 a difference of #c h4 #ef min4 #aa sec41 which the island was ,e4 of the ,cape1 so that adding the ,longitude of the latter ,east of ,greenwich 7by nautical almanack71 #a h4 #ac min4 #ee s41 we have the ,longitude of ,st4 ,paul #e h4 #aj min4 #f s4 ,east of ,greenwich 7#gg #ca' #cj'' ,e47 ,between ,madras and ,st4 ,paul1 during a long passage of sixty-seven days1 and with six chronometers somewhat less accurately set than the preceding1 ,st4 ,paul was found by observation to be #j h4 #aj min4 #ea4h sec4 ,west of ,madras 7#b #db' #ee'' ,w47 ,by the longitude of the ,observatory of ,madras1 #e h4 #bj min4 #eg sec4 ,east of ,greenwich 7#hj #ad' #ae'' ,e471 as furnished by the ,director of the ,observatory1 ,major ,jacobs 7whereas the nautical almanack gave #e h4 #ba m4 #c4gg sec4 #hj #af' #j-a_/b''74 ,the longitude of ,st4 ,paul would be #e h4 #aj m4 #e4b s4 ,east of ,greenwich 7#gg #ca' #bc'' ,e47 ,the average of the two measurements gives as the average #e h4 #aj m4 #e4f sec41 or #gg #ca' #bf'' ,e4 to be assumed as the final longitude of ,st4 ,paul1 while the latitude was taken from the various means of the height of the sun at the meridian on an average of days4 ,an additional computation in which allowances were made for the various corrections1 gave1 as the latitude1 #ch #db' #dg'' ,s4 ,,ii4 ,that the direction of the true meridian line drawn from this point to the nearest opposite shore of the ,south side of the crater-basin was marked by an oblique 7,st4 ,andrew's7 cross4 ,,iii4 ,that the tidal-gauge was situated on a rock near the landing-place1 and that the rise of the tide above the mean level of the water 7#c feet #e inches71 was marked on a slab of rock smoothed for the purpose4 ,,iv4 ,lastly4 ,the magnetic observations were taken in a hut erected for that express purpose on the little plateau behind the settlers' huts1 where at the same time various sorts of useful trees were planted by the ,expedition4 ,the names of the officers and naturalists who1 under the superintendence of the commander of the ,imperial ,expedition1 took part in the various scientific operations were3--for ,astronomy and ,terrestrial ,magnetism1 ,lieutenant ,robert ,mllar2 ,botany1 ,dr4 ,edward ,schwarz and ,m4 ,jellinck2 ,geodesy and ,meteorology1 ,lieutenant ,eugen ,kronowetter2 for the ,trigonometrical ,measurement of the ,crater-basin1 ,lieutenant ,gustavus ,battlogg2 for ,geology1 ,dr4 ,ferdinand ,hochstetter2 ,ethnology and ,physical ,geography1 ,dr4 ,karl ,scherzer2 ,zoology1 ,g4 ,frauenfeld and ,j4 ,zelebor2 ,draughtsman and ,artist1 ,joseph ,sellemy4 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,v4--,,track ,,from ,,st4 ,,paul ,,to ,,point ,,de ,,galle4 7,,ceylon74 ,towards #e ,p4,m4 the last boat came off with the measuring and levelling instruments1 and various articles of baggage4#fh ,the embarkation was finally completed4 ,half-an-hour later the ,novara weighed anchor1 and we steered1 favoured with most splendid weather and full of pleasing anticipations1 for the adjacent island of ,new ,amsterdam4 ,not without sundry twitches of sadness did we remark the sharp crater of ,st4 ,paul gradually fade away like a vision in the gloom of approaching night2 and many undying memories must attach to our residence on that lonely1 world-forsaken island4 ,footnote #fh3 ,remembering how many bottles and glass tubes were shattered1 we have not thought it beyond our province to recommend future scientific travellers to bring with them a good supply of duplicates of all instruments liable to breakage1 as it is very difficult to get such insignificant articles replaced out of ,europe1 and we frequently found on this occasion the want of some such little instrument interposed an obstacle to the further usefulness of the instruments4 ,and now1 at the moment of our departure from the island1 be it permitted us to cast a retrospective glance at the various results obtained by the ,expedition of the ,novara during her stay at ,st4 ,paul4 ,never hitherto on this island1 so important by its geographical position for ships trading with ,china1 the ,east ,indies1 ,australia1 and ,new ,zealand1 have astronomical and magnetic observations and geodesical measurements been so thoroughly ascertained as by the ,novara expedition4 ,upon a carefully measured base-line1 various points of the upper and lower margin of the crater were accurately laid down by means of the ,theodolite1 and the whole island submitted to a geometric network of angles4 ,at the same time the geologist1 with the aid of the compass and the patent levels1 prepared a chart originally intended for geological purposes only1 while the draughtsman of the expedition added to its value1 by skilfully sketching in from these given points the configuration of the coast-line of the island4 ,by their united efforts there has been published a chart of ,st4 ,paul1 which gives even to the minutest details an entirely correct and accurate representation of the form and surface of the island4 ,this minute chart1 or plan1 was prepared on a scale of #acb ,vienna fathoms to one ,vienna inch1 or #a_/iejd of the natural size4 ,moreover1 it is intended preparing1 from this map and from the various outlines and views taken on the spot1 a plastic model of the island after ,nature1 which1 moulded in gypsum1 will give scientific inquirers the most accurate conception of its singular structure4 ,not less interesting for navigators in the ,indian ,ocean will be the publication of the various observations which1 during our stay of #ah days1 were made with the barometer1 thermometer1 tide-gauge1 and gauge of the velocity of currents1 taken at certain fixed hours1 day and night1 as also the soundings in the crater-basin1 and on both sides of the bar4 ,although the complete publication of these data must await the appearance of the nautical portion of the present work1 we shall give here the most important of these results4 ,the extreme length of the island from ,n4,w4 to ,s4,e41 is three nautical miles2 the superficial area is #a1fjj1jjj ,vienna square klafter--#a ,vienna klafter #a fathom #f ,english feet--#ajj ,english square feet #ib-ihf_/ajjj ,vienna square feet4 ,the highest point of the crater-basin is #hdf feet2 the greatest diameter of the upper rim of the crater is #edij feet2 the least #deij feet2 the greatest diameter of the basin at the level of the sea is #cihd feet1 and the least #cddd ,vienna feet4 ,the observations on the state of the weather1 taken with much difficulty1 are not intended to include the regular observations on the exterior of the island1 and in like manner some of those taken in the harbour1 or basin of the crater1 must be accepted with a certain limitation4 ,for similar reasons1 we were unable to fix the rate of the current setting from the sea into the basin1 although we secured most extraordinary results considering the circumstances4 ,the amount of specimens of natural history which was procured1 was very limited1 but on that account was the more valuable4 ,to the geologist1 it must be of the very highest interest to find that ,st4 ,paul has been classified1 with scientific precision1 and by dint of personal examination and research1 in one of the four main divisions in which1 according to the scheme of ,alexander ,von ,humboldt1 the volcanic formations of the earth may be divided4 ,measured by the latest distribution of the volcanic strata by the description of stone found1 as laid down by the greatest of ,german naturalists1 ,st4 ,paul belongs to the same class as ,chimborazo1 ,popocatepetl1 ,teneriffe1 c41 in a word1 to what is known as the ,chimborazo formation4 ,a section of the east-side1 taken in profile1 lays bare its entire geological history1 and forms one of the most instructive means of coming to direct conclusions as to its geological structure4 ,the birth of this island from the bosom of the deep1 combined with eruptions of lava and scori1 was the last effort of the subterranean forces4 ,since that period it has been subject wholly and solely to the various terrestrial influences1 although the lapse of centuries has not been able to extirpate the last traces of the volcanic fire which once poured forth its currents of molten lava4 ,a large proportion of the level ground is hot1 and at the lower edge of the rim of the crater appear several hot springs1 the temperature of which1 as already remarked1 is so high that fish1 eggs1 potatoes1 c41 can be cooked on them in a few minutes4 ,the highest point of ,st4 ,paul rises #hgj feet above the basin of the crater4 ,its walls rise abruptly at an angle of about #he1 while the upper surface of the island 7with the single exception of a small plateau of about #djj feet on the north side7 stretches1 at first level from the periphery of the upper margin of the crater1 gradually falling away towards the sea-coast1 at an angle of about #ac4 ,on its ,north-west coast1 where it is from #ajj to #bjj feet in perpendicular height1 the island presents several small pyramids of pumice1 like parasitic warts on the principal mass4 ,like the geologist1 the botanist also found in this wild spot an unusual opportunity of acquiring accurate information as to the occurrence and propagation of certain kinds of plants in a primitive soil4 ,six grasses and one reed 7cyperace7 form the vegetation of the island1 one rush and three or four of the grasses forming the majority4 ,the botanist having ascended to the plateau found there two grasses1 both of which grew to a certain height only1 and at certain places2 the one 7in the immediate vicinity of the settler's huts17 the oat1 or avena2 the second a digitaria1 in the neighbourhood of the terraced fields1 directly opposite the entrance to the crater1 in warm positions1 which1 so soon as the earth is a little disturbed1 emit jets of steam4 ,it is still uncertain whether the other kinds of grass1 ,poa and ,setaria ,holcus1 belong exclusively to ,st4 ,paul1 or are to be included in the more general group of geographical plants known as that of the islands of ,edward's ,island1 ,kerguelen's ,island1 and ,st4 ,paul4 ,among the grasses there spring up here and there1 but on the whole very sparsely1 some wild vegetables which have been planted by previous chance visitors4#fi ,in the crater there are also ,sonchus arvensis and one ,plantago 7,plantain74 ,on the south margin of the crater are ,cerastium 7maize-ear chickweed71 and ,stellaria media 7chickweed72 both grow on a small piece of ground1 and are far from thriving4 ,of ,cryptogamia the botanist found four sorts4 ,two ,parmelias1 one ,evernia1 and one ,cladonia1 the first-named overrunning the blocks on the edge of the crater with great luxuriance4 ,footnote #fi3 ,such as ,rumex acetosella1 ,cynara ,scolcymus 7artichoke72 ,solanum tuberosum 7species of nightshade72 ,daucus carotta 7carrot72 ,petroselinum sativum 7parsley72 ,brassica oleracea 7sea-kail72 ,raphanus sativus 7horse-radish74 ,of ,alg there were found #cc species4 ,the stones rolled backwards and forwards by the action of the waves1 as also those surfaces which remained covered at lowest tide1 were entirely covered with ,dicurella flabellata4 ,most numerous was ,gigartina radula1 just in a state of fructification4 ,every movement of the water calls up slender1 delicate conferv1 and pale and coloured luminari4 ,the breakers have crowned the stones with festoons of the ,macrocystis pyrifera4 ,of ,liverworts there were found ,marchantia and ,jungermania2 of foliaceous mosses1 ,sphagnum 7bog-moss71 and two kinds of ,bruym4 ,two ferns1 just beginning to bear fruit1 were found on the plateau1 and one ,lycopodium 7club-moss71 which thrives pretty well1 and frequently grows on the ,sphagnum4 ,on the whole1 the botanist of the expedition found on the island1 #aa ,phanerogamia1 #d ,lichens1 #cc ,alg1 #b ferns1 #b ,liverworts1 #c foliaceous mosses1 #a ,lycopodium4 ,in this enumeration are included the ,european vegetables cultivated by the residents1 as also some untended plants1 which apparently have been introduced with the vegetables1 or have been brought hither by previous visitors4 ,the stony substratum of this island is barely covered with a plastic vegetable substance1 which fills the cracks4 ,the walls of the crater1 as also the entire plateau1 present to view a plain1 unrelieved expanse of grass2 not1 however1 like fields clothed with sward1 but single tufts pressing one upon the other1 which seem like the grave-mounds of a hundred bygone generations of plants4 ,frequently1 at the foot of a block of pumice1 all overrun with grasses of all sorts1 one comes upon a moss or a stem of fern on one of the pieces of lava that has been washed up1 or perceives with amazement in some out-of-the-way place1 and utterly neglected1 good old acquaintances from ,europe1 such as carrots1 parsley1 potatoes1 c41 which apparently have been begun to be cultivated on some of the terraces1 whence they have propagated themselves in a wild state all over the island4 ,but not a tree1 or bush1 is to be met with throughout the island4 ,in like manner1 although the zoologist seemed to have but a poor prospect at ,st4 ,paul1 it presented materials for most satisfactory speculation to the attentive naturalist4 ,only one of the grasses is infested by an insect1 which appears in great numbers1 a very tiny cicada 7cricket71 the ,delphis hemiptera1 of which1 according to the zoologist of the expedition1 it is hard to say whether it became indigenous to ,st4 ,paul before1 or contemporaneous with the arrival of man4 ,among other insects that have certainly been introduced here1 the zoologist found the common bluebottle-fly1 a gnat1 the universally found cockroach1 the book-tick 7acarus eruditus71 one kind of earwig1 and the flea2 besides the ,isopodis1 our common barrel-worm1#gj in almost fabulous quantities4 ,these animals invariably follow man wherever he plants his foot1 living upon garbage or decaying organic matter4 ,with the exception of the clothes-moth1 which has probably been introduced among the wool-stuffs1 there are in the island no butterflies1 none of the been tribe1 no ,neuroptera4 ,mites also need scarcely be reckoned1 since the only representative1 the common cheese-mite1 is more apt to become extinct than to thrive2 on the other hand1 there are two kinds of spiders1 for which the enormous number of flies furnish sufficient food4 ,footnote #gj3 ,these loathsome animals cover the island in such quantities that one of the naturalists reckoned them at #f1jjj1jjj1jjj1 counting #ajj as the minimum to each square foot of the island4 ,the species belonging to the sea are somewhat more plentifully represented1 although1 with few exceptions1 very small and insignificant4 ,the largest shell fish1 a ,tritonium1 only attains a length of #c inches2 ,patella1 which is very plentiful all round the island1 is only #a inch long2 several sorts of snails 7such as ,buccinum1 ,defrancia1 ,mangelia1 ,paludinella1 ,adeorbis1 ,janthina1 ,fissurella1 ,scutellina1 ,lepidopleurus1 ,bulla1 ,asteronotus1 ,doto71 are barely a few lines in length1 or even less4 ,the ,brachiopoda are represented by a very inferior member1 the ,terebratulina1 only two lines long1 which1 however1 is a giant compared with one of the two only kinds of mussel1 ,kellia and ,lima1 which are occasionally met with here1 and are only half-a-line in length4 ,among the ,vertebrat1 the fishery of which is the principal object of the visits annually paid to the island1 one1 the ,cheilodactylus1 a spinous-finned fish1 which is extraordinarily abundant all round the island1 supports an important fishery1 while ,thyrsites ,atun were frequently caught with rod and line from the frigate4 ,of ,amphibi1 there is not a vestige to be found on the island2 the birds belong for the most part to the powerful-winged web-footed birds that frequent the open ocean1 as1 for example1 the ,diomedea exulans 7great albatross or man-of-war bird71 ,d4 chlororhynchus 7yellow-billed albatross71 ,d4 fuliginosa 7a new one not determined71 ,lestris catarractes1 ,storna sp3 ,prion ,vittatus1 of which the four last-named1 at the time of our visit1 had both eggs and young4 ,of birds with fin-shaped wings1 there was the golden-crested penguin 7,apterodytes chrysocoma ,s471 living in two distinct colonies among the precipitous overhanging cliffs1 with innumerable young1 already of a pretty good size4#ga ,we also remarked several other winged denizens of the deep1 which had alighted on our ship during the last few days immediately preceding our arrival at ,st4 ,paul4 ,according to the fishery-people1 the other birds of the island quit it altogether so soon as their young have grown sufficiently1 and only return when the next breeding season comes round4 ,footnote #ga3 ,one of the zoologists1 ,mr4 ,zelebor1 endeavoured to kill two penguins that had been caught alive in the island1 the one with arsenic1 the other with chloroform4 ,of the latter1 a quantity was administered enough to have killed a man1 but which scarcely affected the penguin1 who1 in a quarter of an hour after1 seemed quite restored to himself4 ,the second1 which had swallowed two tea-spoonsful of arsenic1 died eight hours later4 ,in contradistinction to the sea-birds1 ,m4 ,frauenfeld remarked but one single land-bird1 a swallow1 whose movements seemed to indicate that he was watching a breeding female4 ,a stray bird on this lonely spot of earth1 nearly #cjjj miles away from the main land6 ,hundreds of questions suggested themselves on thus unexpectedly coming upon so well-known a wanderer4 ,what could have condemned him to this self-imposed exile8 ,was he a straggler8 ,was it the first time he had selected this island for a home8 ,had it been his own cradle8 ,and would he at some future period find companions to visit with him1 and ultimately share these solitary desolate abodes8 ,there were no seals visible1--they have retreated before the attacks and stratagems of their insatiate pursuer the seal-hunter1 and for a long period have ceased to frequent the island4 ,indeed1 ,st4 ,paul furnishes not a single specimen of mammal peculiar to itself2 for all the members of this great natural division at present on it1--such as goats1 swine1 cats1 c41--having become wild1 must necessarily be classed1 however unusual1 with rats1 mice1 and the like4 ,in other respects1 all these have not varied in the slightest from the type of the domesticated animal 7although they have probably lived wild for a hundred years past71 except that they are very shy and avoid the presence of man4 ,while upon these various points1 the stay of the ,imperial ,expedition at ,st4 ,paul gave many splendid results by means of observations and scientific collections1 it was also productive of a number of important practical benefits for seafaring people4 ,the geodesical results1 for instance1 obtained by the ,expedition1 demonstrate that there is formed by the basin of the crater at ,st4 ,paul's1 despite the small extent of its coast-line1 a secure natural haven which would afford substantial facilities for ships1 to which1 on their voyage to ,china1 ,australia1 or anywhere in the ,east ,indies1 any accident has happened1 necessitating complete and speedy repair1 or which might require fresh provisions for their crews1 stricken with scurvy after a long voyage4 ,for1 although the depth of the basin of the crater in the centre is very considerable1 and although the squalls of wind from the ,n4,w4 are often very violent1 the ship can always make fast to the land1 and so ensure the requisite security4 ,how far the assistance so cheerfully rendered by science may have been called for1 or how far the route at present traversed by sailing vessels makes that assistance desirable1 must be left to the judgment of those nations1 such as the ,english1 ,french1 and ,dutch1 which1 as having possessions washed by the ,indian ,ocean1 have a direct interest in the future condition of such a harbour of refuge1 situate equidistant from ,asia1 ,africa1 and ,australia4 ,the morning after our departure from ,st4 ,paul1 that is to say1 on #gth ,dec41 we found ourselves not more than ten miles distant from ,amsterdam4 ,the first view of the island greatly resembles that of ,st4 ,paul1 and the hypothesis gained constantly in probability that the geological formation of ,amsterdam is nearly identical with that of ,st4 ,paul4 ,a whaler was cruising in the neighbourhood of the island1 while one of his slim whaleboats was pursuing a school of sperm whales1 which sported about in great numbers4 ,towards #g ,a4,m41 a boat approached from the whaler ,esmeralda1 ,captain ,pierce1 of ,new ,bedford1 ,massachusetts1 to ask for surgical assistance for a sailor who1 while engaged a few days previously in hauling a captured fish alongside1 had had his left hand so severely injured by one of the lines1 that amputation had seemed the sole remedy4 ,the ,captain had1 in genuine ,yankee fashion1 assumed the duties of surgeon1 and performed the operation himself4 ,now that it was over1 and when neither praise nor censure could benefit the patient1 he was anxious to know whether he had done right or wrong4 ,while one of the ship's surgeons was getting ready1 as requested by the captain1 to proceed to the bedside of his patient1 the whaler informed us he had already been absent from his family in the ,states five months1 and would proceed hence to the ,sandwich ,islands and the ,northern grounds1 and finally return home round ,cape ,horn4 ,if the take of fish proved good1 he hoped to complete the voyage within two years4 ,whale-fishing1 in truth1 is not only a very dangerous and laborious1 but also a most precarious pursuit4 ,occasionally a ship gets loaded within a brief space with oil and whalebone1 by which1 of course1 the owner or charterer makes a splendid profit1 and the entire crew obtain a handsome share4 ,but frequently does it happen that1 after a voyage of fifteen months and more1 there is not a single fish taken1 in which case the hardy sailors1 who are entirely dependent for their pay upon a share of the spoil1 have had all their labour and undergone all their privations in vain1 while the freighter is poorer by a good round sum4 ,the bare chance1 however1 of a rich haul is sufficient to raise to #hjjj1 the number 7probably on the increase7 of the ships of varying tonnage and nationality1 which at present encounter the anxieties1 dangers1 and hardships attaching to the whale-fishery4 ,it is calculated that1 were it possible to anchor them within signalling distance of each other1 they would form a complete girdle round the earth at the ,equator4 ,in other respects1 the incessant activity of the whaler is not without its advantages for science1 since the observations and communications of many of the captains connected with the whaling business have essentially contributed to extend our acquaintance with atmospheric phenomena1 especially in high latitudes1 on both sides of the ,equator4 ,the loquacious captain1 an uncommon quality in a ,yankee1 could not conceal his astonishment at encountering an ,austrian man-of-war in such a latitude in mid-ocean1 and adverted to this unexpected phenomenon4 ,captain ,pierce further complained bitterly of the weather1 and said that1 as long as he had sailed the ,indian ,ocean1 he had never at this season experienced such tempestuous weather as during the last week2 which was further confirmed by several other whalers1 regular visitors to these waters4 ,respecting ,amsterdam1 ,captain ,pierce1 unfortunately1 could give us but very little information4 ,he had never set foot on the island1 nor did he know whether it was accessible at all4 ,but he spoke highly of the availability of the coasts for valuable fish4 ,nowhere in the ,indian ,ocean1 the ,captain remarked1 was there such an abundance of fish of all descriptions as at the ,southernmost point of this little-known island4 ,consequently most whalers1 on their course ,southwards1 approach this island1 and send out boats to bring in supplies of fish suitable for the table4 ,usually the boat is filled in a few hours with delicious food caught with the rod and line1 when the fish are forthwith salted1 in sufficient quantities to supply the crew for several weeks4 ,is ,amsterdam really a sister-island of ,st4 ,paul8 ,is it1 too1 of volcanic origin1 upheaved by the same subterranean energy1 and does it still show similar traces of long-continued activity8 ,these questions pressed on us for solution all the more vividly as we neared this inaccessible island1 when we recalled to mind the mysterious phenomena which ,d',entrecasteaux had observed here in ,march1 #agib1 and which have remained unexplained to this day4#gb ,the ,french ,expedition saw1 it is true1 clouds of smoke emerging alternately from a subterranean opening close to the shore1 but without being able to satisfy themselves whether the vegetation had been set on fire by the hand of man or by volcanic action1 the wind which blew direct from the island making it impossible to land1 unless one was prepared to run the risk of being suffocated by the rolling masses of smoke4 ,there was1 therefore1 to be solved1 at ,amsterdam1 the mystery as to whether the pillars of smoke1 which were observed by the naturalists of the ,french ,expedition of #agib1 issuing from the soil adjoining the sea1 were produced by an actual eruption1 or were caused by subterranean fires in activity4#gc ,footnote #gb3 ,la ,billardire1 ,rlation du voyage la recherche de la ,peyrouse1 fait par ordre de l',assemble ,constituante pendant les annes #agia-id1 ,paris1 #ahjj4 7,vol4 ,i41 pp4 #aab1 #aac47 ,footnote #gc3 ,vide ,alexander v4 ,humboldt's ,kosmos1 ,vol4 ,,iv41 pp4 #dab and #ehe2 also ,physical and ,geognostic ,remarks1 by the same author1 prefixed to this volume4 ,about #aa ,a4,m41 the two jolly-boats of the ,novara were lowered to look for a landing-place on ,amsterdam1 while the frigate stood off and on1 under easy sail1 at an offing of five or six miles4 ,our whaling informant had told us the most abundant fishing-station was at the south point of the island1 while the best place for disembarking was on the ,n4,w4 shore4 ,as1 however1 upon consideration1 it was deemed advisable1 looking to the probability of a ,n4,e4 gale springing up1 to get to windward of the ship1 so as to be able to fetch her more speedily on our return1 the ,s4,e4 side was selected1 and our course laid for it accordingly4 ,along the acclivities of the coast pyramids of loose stones were visible1 resembling those on ,st4 ,paul1 but more numerous and of larger dimensions1 the entire island seeming altogether on a much larger scale1 and more lofty4 ,on the ,west side we observed rocky precipices of from #ajjj to #bjjj feet in height1 fissured with deep clefts and rents1 whereas on the ,south and ,s4,e41 these presented a more gradual slope4 ,for above an hour we steered along the shore1 which rose sheer out of the water1 without being able to detect a single point at which it was at all practicable to disembark1 so as to scramble up to the high ground4 ,the entire ,eastern side is hemmed around with steep abrupt precipices of #aej to #bjj feet high1 not unlike skilfully-erected bastions1 and clothed with long thick grass4 ,as we drew near1 we could plainly discern in the water-courses that descend upon the upper slope--radiating1 as it were1 from all sides of the highest peak1 which was enveloped in clouds--numerous streams of water1 each pouring through a rift like a thread of silver1 after which1 precipitating itself over the steep precipices on the shore1 it washed like a small torrent over terraces and banks of lava1 till it was lost in the sea4 ,if these streams are swollen by the heavy rain in winter1 they may form waterfalls1 as mentioned by early navigators1 which must impart a far less pleasing character to the landscape4 ,two small patches of dazzling white1 like fresh fallen snow1 which were visible high above the slope1 we could not make out with the utmost power of our glasses4 ,the green colour which enveloped the entire island seemed to indicate the existence of grass vegetation resembling that of ,st4 ,paul4 ,at last1 when we had got within two cables' length of the shore1 we encountered enormous green flakes of floating sea-weed1 which1 becoming entangled with the rudder1 made further progress possible only by dint of most strenuous exertions4 ,this proved to be the same gigantic sea-tangle of the ,southern hemispheres 7,macrocystis ,pyrifera71 which likewise constitutes a barrier of fucus on the ,east side of ,st4 ,paul4 ,the sea-calves mentioned by older describers were nowhere to be seen2 but on the other hand we had an opportunity of satisfying ourselves as to the immense abundance of fish which frequent the coast of the island in a truly astonishing degree1 although the ,american whaler had prepared us by his remarks4 ,from bow and stern of the boat hooks and lines were hung out1 and several of the crew were at once kept busy hauling in the lines1 at the end of each of which there usually struggled a fish of some two or three feet long4 ,these were chiefly umber fish1 which are also very plentiful about ,st4 ,paul1 where1 from their delicacy1 they formed a favourite dish at our otherwise very frugal repasts4 ,we had now got so near1 that we could distinctly perceive grass and the stems of ferns growing among the clefts of the rocks4 ,however1 although there was a dead calm1 and the sea outside was as smooth as glass1 the long ground-swell of the ocean1 with its broad flat billows1 caused such a heavy surf on the rock-bound stony beach1 that the attempt to pass it was not to be thought of4 ,the further we advanced along the coast in a northernly direction1 the more distant we got from the ship1 and unluckily in an equal degree our hopes were disappointed of finding a spot at which we could land1 and scramble from the strand up the steep bank to the level ground above4 ,the south-easternmost point1 which at a distance presented the appearance of a low headland jutting out into the sea1 behind which we had hoped to find a good landing-place1 now that we had got close to it1 proved to be a small detached rock2 while the shore1 as far as the eye could reach1 rose like a wall to a height of from #aej to #bjj feet4 ,there now hove in sight five whalers1 who seemed hunting that most valuable of all the inhabitants of the deep1 of the spots frequented by which ,maury's renowned ,whale ,charts have lately supplied so interesting and useful a code of instruction4 ,these charts1 which are based on a vast number of observations1 of the tracts of ocean and seasons of the year at which whales are most frequently seen1 will at the same time greatly tend to a solution of the question as to the migration of these enormous mammals2 for it has never yet been settled1 whether these animals flee from the pursuit of man to remote seas1 thus continually constraining their pursuers to seek their prey in new waters1 or whether1 7as is the most prevalent opinion71 they are always entirely extirpated from one locality1 and accordingly are only to be met with in any numbers in some different area1 in which man has as yet only rarely1 if ever1 disturbed them4#gd ,footnote #gd3 ,some very valuable and detailed particulars of the ,whale fishery are to be found in ,maury's incomparable work1 ,the ,physical ,geography of the ,ocean1 and in ,dr4 ,hartwigs' ,popular ,treatise on ,animated ,nature in the ,ocean4 7,frankfort-on-the-,main1 #ahee47 ,after an hour-and-a-half of continuous rowing1 and when1 in our very unsuitable boat1 we had got about #g nautical miles distant from the frigate1 we at last found a smooth spot between two reefs1 which projected above the level of the sea like a breakwater1 and at once let go the boat's anchor4 ,a regular landing-place1 however1 was not to be hoped for at this point4 ,it was necessary first to make a spring to a block of rock1 and thence1 picking one's way among stones rendered slippery by being covered at flood-tide1 endeavour to reach the beach4 ,this we all succeeded in accomplishing over the rough rocks1 without any mischance1 and at last we stood on the firm soil of the ,island of ,amsterdam1 at a spot which assuredly had never before been trodden by human feet1 unless by some castaway4 ,for only in consequence of the sea being perfectly calm1 which at this season was quite unusual1 were we able to reach the shore at this point4 ,what a scene of wildest desolation1 and inaccessible solitude now met our gaze6 ,around us nothing but huge blocks of basalt1 some rolled about by the breakers1 and so slippery with half-dry alg1 that one was in danger of falling at every stride2 others with their angles and indentations as sharp1 as when first violently torn from their original bed2 and behind these gigantic blocks1 a perpendicular wall of rock rising #bjj feet sheer1 composed of a schistus of basaltic lava lying regularly and horizontally one over the other1 intermixed with red or brown slag1 and yellow tufa4 ,immense holes and cavities in the rocky wall1 as also the empty spaces between the broken blocks that had fallen down1 and the vast air-holes scooped out in the lava beds1 furnished an undisturbed nestling-place for flocks of a beautiful sea-swallow1 with glossy black head1 silver-grey body1 and bill and feet of carmine red--the most elegant and attractive contrast of colours that can well be imagined upon any bird4 ,these pretty creatures afforded great amusement to the sportsmen of our little party1 while the geologist acquired a better idea and more information as to the mineralogy and geognosis of the island beneath the steep wall of rock1 than he could have obtained above1 where all seemed to be covered with thick green grass4 ,but the botanist and zoologist found but little to repay their search on the beach4 ,the same ,alg1 the same grasses1 the same patell 7limpets71 as at ,st4 ,paul1 even to the same caterpillars swarming upon every tuft of grass in numberless quantities4 ,at several points1 fresh1 perfectly good1 sweet spring-water trickled down from the heights1 and we could thus confirm the relations of former explorers1 that the island contains fresh water2 but whether it can be got at1 still remains a very uncertain question4 ,as we were convinced1 after several examinations and much exertion1 that to ascend the precipice from this spot was impossible1 it was resolved1 after the men had rested1 and a few observations had been made with the sextant1 to re-embark and endeavour to find a more suitable spot for disembarking4 ,we quitted this first spot about #b ,p4,m41 and continued to steer along the coast in a ,n4,e4 direction4 ,the character of the scenery remained almost unaltered4 ,the steep shore wall indeed dipped somewhat occasionally1 but it was never less than #ajj feet above the level of the sea4 ,at various points there appeared1 as at ,st4 ,paul1 between the tufa strata1 black veins of basalt1 and fragments of scori1 lying upon reddish-brown slag4 ,our curiosity1 however1 was especially excited by the appearance of small trees and low bushes4 ,at first1 while we were yet at some distance1 we could barely distinguish a few dark1 clear1 green spots amid the universal dull olive appearance of the vegetation that covered the island2 now that we were keeping closer in1 we plainly saw small trees1 which seemed most to resemble forests of pine1 as also what appeared to be thick close brushwood of a light green colour1 with which large patches of the middle and lower slopes of the island were covered4 ,in vain did we watch for some spot in this singular island at which we might land and climb2 at length1 after steering several miles further along the coast1 and passing several promontories advancing from the island1 and numerous isolated rocks1 we came1 towards #c4cj ,p4,m41 upon a number of lava-blocks that had fallen from above1 and1 forming a sort of dam or bulwark between the sea and the shore1 seemed to render disembarkation possible4 ,the boat's anchor was again dropped1 and we proceeded to make for the shore by dint of jumping1 as before1 from rock to rock2 a method of reaching land more agreeable and better suited to penguins than decorous philosophers6 ,among the rocks on the strand lie fragments of shipwrecked vessels--pieces of masts and yards--dumb witnesses of human disaster1 and suffering1 and death6 ,at this point the shore was not very steep4 ,the masses of rock piled here on each other in wild confusion1 made our ascent more practicable than at our former landing-place1 though perhaps they necessitated greater circumspection4 ,dr4 ,hochstetter and ,m4 ,zelebor1 as also ,lieutenant ,kronowetter1 and a sailor1 started for the height4 ,a ridge1 grown over with grass and rushes1 and forming a line of communication between the upper and lower portions of the island1 seemed the most accessible point4 at which to mount to the high ground above4 ,at first the path led over the colossal rampart of broken rocks and through the surf1 after which came clumps of rushes and clods1 in which the former grew1 and thence upwards over masses of slag4 ,it was a regular ,sisyphean task4 ,on the loose rolling dbris beneath the feet1 for every five feet forwards1 one slipped four backward1 so that to climb this height of little over #ajj feet1 took nearly a whole hour4 ,at last the adventurous scramblers stood on the top of the island1 on a small bare cone of scori1 whence they were able to overlook a portion of the ground4 ,dense rush-like grass1 as high as a man1 thickly covered the entire surface-- half-withered1 half of a lively green2 here broken short off by wind and rain1 there still standing erect4 ,further progress was not to be thought of1 not even as far as the green clump of bushes which had already been observed from the boat1 although it was scarcely a hundred paces distant1 on the surface of the declivity1 and although a closer examination promised to afford many interesting details as to the vegetation on the island4 ,it would have been necessary to make one's way either through heaps of withered rushes1 requiring to be broken down at every moment1 or across thick1 matted1 fresh1 slippery grass1 in order to get anywhere near the copse that resembled the pinewood4 ,moreover1 owing to the short allowance of daylight that remained1 both were for the present inaccessible4#ge ,evening was coming on1 and it was necessary to think of our return1 as we were at a distance of at least eight miles from the frigate4 ,with the help of pocket-handkerchiefs1 which they had tied to the reeds1 the explorers readily found again the place at which they had ascended1 and now speedily returned to the improvised landing-place1 where1 meanwhile1 the naturalists that had remained behind had occupied themselves with collecting specimens on the beach1 and amid the surrounding rocks4 ,a singular spectacle now presented itself to the astonished view4 ,a couple of lucifer matches that had been thrown aside without further thought1 had burst into flames amid the parched rush beds1 and dense volumes of black smoke forthwith rose upon the surface of the island4 ,the fire speedily spreading among the thick dry grass1 soon assumed a formidable breadth1 and ere long a considerable portion of the east coast of the island was in a light flame4 ,there was now presented to the members of the ,novara expedition1 the same spectacle as that witnessed by the naturalists of the ,recherche1 when ,d',entrecasteaux passed here some sixty years before4 ,it may safely be assumed that the fire1 and the thick wreaths of smoke then visible were like those of to-day1 the result of man's hands1 and not of subterranean forces--in fact1 kindled in all probability by fishermen1 who were clearing this uninhabitable island of the close impervious brushwood that so greatly impedes locomotion1 and were rendering it capable of being traversed1 as well as susceptible of cultivation4 ,during the night of #gth and #hth ,december1 #aheg1 the sky was clear and cloudless1 and the flames crackled and leaped high above the beach1 in an elliptical area1 which must have measured a couple of miles in its major axis4 ,a dense1 copper-coloured1 luminous cloud of smoke rose straight into the air1 where it spread out horizontally1 till at last a long trail of smoke stretched in a ,s4,e4 direction to the farthest horizon1 entirely covering the upper part of the island4 ,about #b ,a4,m41 according to the report of the officer of the watch1 the spectacle was still more grand and imposing4 ,the conflagration at that time extended over an immense surface1 so that the imagination might naturally enough be disposed to regard this as the bursting forth of the pent-up flames of a volcano1 with the usual accompaniments of red-hot streams of lava1 clouds of floating ashes1 and pillars of flame mounting to heaven4 ,footnote #ge3 ,one of the shipwrecked crew of the ,meridian1 in an article in the ,nautical ,magazine1 for #ahed1 p4 #ge1 describes at some length the difficulties of access to this island4 ,we quote it here as a supplement to our own experiences3--,after we had clambered up to the top by means of ropes1 and after much exertion and considerable danger1 we found the island for a space of two or three miles thickly covered with reeds1 from #e to #h feet high2 behind rose a lofty hill1 also clothed with reeds4 ,fortunately1 during our stay on the island1 there was a sufficiency of fresh water1 although in summer1 in all probability1 there is a great scarcity4 ,so long as we remained1 constant rain fell upon the summit of the mountain1 and kept the numerous little brooks full of water4 ,in order to signal our situation to any ship that might be passing1 we set the reeds on fire2 but the flames spread more furiously than we had anticipated1 so that our lives were endangered4 ,a considerable quantity of young birds were picked up1 which had fallen victims to the flames4 ,on the #bith ,august1 to our great joy1 a ship1 the ,monmouth1 hove in sight1 and observed our signal2 but the surf was at this time so violent that no boat could reach us4 ,at last1 on #cast ,august1 a boat came near enough to the shore to make us a signal to proceed eastward over the rocks4 ,we set off at once1 but found the path very rugged1 and owing to the immense masses of rock lying around1 excessively difficult4 ,besides reeds and brushwood1 there were no other plants but parsley and endive 7cichorium intybus74 ,during the first half of the following day we found no water1 but we found the hail very grateful1 which day and night fell incessantly1 alternating with rain4 ,at the first watering-place we came upon an ,english sailor1 whom the captain of the ,monmouth had despatched to assist us4 ,he informed us we must make for the north side of the island1 as no boat could reach the shore at the spot where we had gone ashore4 ,the south-coast is the worst part of the island2 there the surf breaks continually against the iron-bound coast2 there is nothing resembling a beach--only here and there enormous blocks of a hard species of stone1 that have fallen from time to time from the cliffs above4 ,on #bnd ,september1 we had neither provisions nor water4 ,the following day1 however1 we found water1 and a few cabbage-stalks1 which several years before had been sown by some whalers1 and fortunately had thrived4 ,on #eth ,september1 we reached what is called the ,cabbage ,garden1 and the same evening arrived at the place where the boat was awaiting us4 ,fortunately1 this gigantic conflagration must have done far more good than harm to this desolate island1 covered as it was for the most part with reeds1 since1 without destroying any of the vegetation that could be of service to man1 it will greatly facilitate examination by future voyagers1 and adapt it for settlement by fishers and others1 who at present seem to leave it utterly abandoned4 ,towards #f ,p4,m41 as it was already getting dark1 our two boats set out on their return to the frigate1 from which in the course of the day they had been distant about fifteen miles4 ,however a fresh ,northerly breeze having sprung up we were able to make sail1 and at #g4cj ,p4,m4 once more reached the frigate1 when we were received with a storm of questions1 principally turning upon the mysterious far-visible conflagration1--which had been kindled by a couple of humble ,vienna lucifers6 ,during our visit to the island a variety of observations were also made on board the frigate1 to obtain the position of ,amsterdam1 as also to determine the elevation of the most prominent peaks of the island1 and the outline of the shore4 ,the results of these gave the following3 latitude #cg #eh' #cj'' ,s42 longitude1 #gg #cd1' #dd'' ,e4 of ,greenwich2 elevation of the highest summit 7nearly corresponding with previous observations71 #bhia ,english feet2 of the second highest1 #bfea feet2 the length of the ,south coast1 as measured from the frigate1 #cb1cei feet2 of the ,western shore1 #eejg feet4 ,there was still some faint hope that we might visit the island next day4 ,however1 during the night the wind sprung up1 the weather became variable1 and we saw ourselves compelled to renounce our cherished desire to investigate the island thoroughly1 the rather that1 owing to the unpropitious weather during the last few weeks1 the stay of the ,novara in these latitudes had been prolonged so considerably beyond the period fixed1 that no more time could be spared1 if it were desirous to avoid sacrificing the objects of the ,expedition with reference to other and more important departments of scientific enquiry1 by engaging in them at a season in all probability highly unfavourable for the purpose4 ,consequently our observations in ,amsterdam remained most imperfect2 although the geologist of the expedition was enabled to clear up the uncertainty hitherto prevailing as to the geological structure of the island1 and to determine upon scientific data1 that ,amsterdam is an extinct volcanic cone1 of precisely the same character1 and belonging to the same order of volcanic formation as the sister island of ,st4 ,paul2 that it probably contains on itself all the usual indications of its volcanic origin1 and that its upheaval probably took place at the same period4 ,on the other hand1 the naturalist regretted to see slip the opportunity so rarely vouchsafed1 of instituting a comparison between the respective vegetations of these islands1 and of making evident how1 simultaneously with the advance of a more luxuriant1 and more multiform vegetable organization1 there also appears an entirely new race of animals1 and how closely allied in the economy of nature is the existence of individual specimens with certain fixed pre-existent types4 ,in any case ,st4 ,paul1 which we enjoyed an opportunity of examining in the utmost detail1 is1 of the two islands1 the most important to the commerce of the world1 not merely as a finger-post on the most frequented deep-sea route in the ,indian ,ocean1 but also as a haven of refuge for ships and crews4 ,already the crater-basin of ,st4 ,paul has served in case of need as a desirable asylum for ships that are half unseaworthy4 ,not many years since an ,english man-of-war steamer came to ,st4 ,paul1 after a severe storm in the ,indian ,ocean1 during which her engine broke down1 and her rudder was knocked away1 after which she1 for twelve days1 was steered by a temporary rudder4 ,the vessel1 after discharging the heaviest part of her equipment1 was easily brought into the interior of the crater-basin1 and was there hove down for several months on the ,northern barrier1 undergoing repairs4 ,on the #hth ,december1 about #d ,a4,m41 only a dark cloud of smoke in the distant cloudless horizon indicated the position of ,amsterdam4 ,the island itself1 properly speaking1 was actually out of sight1 for a fresh ,n4,w4 breeze had driven us merrily along during the night4 ,the last hope was now dissipated of being able to obtain a view of the ,north side of ,amsterdam4 ,we were now rapidly approaching the region of the ,s4,e4 ,trades4 ,the breeze freshened and crept gradually to the ,west1 thence to the ,south1 and finally to the ,eastward4 ,this veering of the wind proved to be a fore-runner of the ,trades1 which we got into on #adth ,december1 in ,s4 latitude #bh #a'1 ,e4 longitude #he4 ,on that day a merchantman hove in sight1 which1 with favouring breezes and all sail set1 soon bore down on us4 ,she came down without any flag1 and stood right across our bows at so short a distance that we could plainly read her name--the ,bunker's ,hill1 of ,boston--on her stern4 ,thereupon we ran up our flag2 and1 as it is as gross a breach of the code of maritime politeness for a ship to pass across the bows of another in the open ocean without saluting1 as for a man on land to brush quickly across another's path without apologizing1 a blank shot was fired at this unmannerly ,american4 ,to this manifestation etiquette lays it down that1 as the hoisting of her flag by a man-of-war is a direct challenge for any merchantman that may be in sight to hoist its flag1 any neglect of these universally recognized rules must involuntarily give rise to suspicions4 ,after we had fired the blank shot1 the ,american1 by a telegraph of flag-signals1 enquired the latitude and longitude1 which in merchant ships in the open sea is pretty frequently resorted to1 in order to know where precisely they are1 as they are not able to make such frequent observations as ships of war4 ,before anything else1 however1 it was necessary to settle the question of saluting2 and this the obstinate ,yankee1 in spite of the warning signal1 seemed resolved not to notice1 although he well knew the seriousness of his position1 as was abundantly evident in the celerity with which several ladies and gentlemen1 whom we could discern on deck1 flew to seek shelter below6 ,a second report1 accompanied by a ball over his stern1 at last brought this pertinacious captain to his senses1 and the whistling of the shot had the desired effect4 ,the ,stars and ,stripes were run up1 upon which we signalled the required latitude and longitude4 ,probably it was but a petulant explosion of a silly national vanity1 as also the consciousness of commanding a handsome crack clipper1 that could speedily run out of gun-shot1 which led to this premeditated and persistent violation of one of the most ordinary rules of politeness4 ,indeed1 even the vessels of the ,north ,american navy itself are frequently compelled in the open sea to treat their fellow-countrymen in a similar manner2 and the captain of the war-steamer ,minnesota1 looking after the ,north ,american interests in ,china1 was obliged1 as we learned afterwards at ,shanghai1 to enforce a compliance with established sea usages on one of his seafaring compatriots1 by dint of cannon-shot1 in accordance with the undoubted practice of all maritime nations4 ,the south-east ,trade1 which we had hoped would drive us on our destined course1 was not so strong or so steady as we had expected1 chiefly perhaps in consequence of the influence exercised by the ,australian continent1 the temperature of which during this1 the summer season of the ,southern ,hemisphere1 is raised to an extraordinary degree by its sandy surface1 that when the air has become thus warmed1 it ascends and becomes more rarefied in its lower strata1 in consequence of which its elasticity becomes so great as to drive back the surrounding colder atmosphere1 and only admit it to contact with the heated air at its most remote limits4 ,this occurs the more readily1 that the heated air1 after it has risen to the more rarefied tracts1 expands on all sides1 and at a certain distance from the lower level1 begins to add to the pressure of the atmosphere4 ,in this self-acting zone of increased atmospheric pressure1 the winds1 however1 are naturally more faint1 and1 to observers who happen to be on the exterior of this zone1 always appear to take their rise from the further side4 ,for this reason1 probably1 we fell in with easterly breezes1 so long as we had the ,northern portion of ,australia to the eastward of us4 ,at any rate1 the equilibrium of the air seemed to be disturbed1 as we could plainly perceive from the weather and the confused sea4 ,at last on #ahth ,december1 the heavens seemed somewhat more propitious1 though the wind still continued easterly2 indeed occasionally blew from the north1 and frequent squalls of rain poured pitilessly down upon us4 ,the more1 however1 we increased our distance from the ,australian continent1 that is1 from all land to the eastward1 the more steadily blew the south east ,trade4 ,and so we kept standing steadily forwards1 till at last1 on the #bdth ,december1 in #f #d' ,s4 ,lat41 and #hb #cd' ,e4 ,long41 we reached the eastern boundaries of the ,trades and got into that of calms4 ,the heat1 which thus far had spared us1 began now to be most oppressive1 and was felt all the more owing to the air being extraordinarily damp and dense4 ,frequently in the afternoon a passing shower of rain1 which would sometimes completely flood the deck1 would cool the air for a few fleeting moments4 ,occasionally indeed we had westerly and more rarely north-westerly breezes1 but these were never of long duration1 and were incessantly broken by rains and squalls4 ,and at this same season1 at which in our distant ,fatherland1 palace and hut are decked out with unwonted attention1 when golden fruits and elegant presents glitter from the green fir-branches of the ,christmas ,tree1 all lit up with the neat little wax-tapers1 when man's heart seems to overflow with cheerfulness and love of his fellow-creatures1--at this season we were languishing far from our dear ones1 tormented with the intense heat1 scarcely able to realize to ourselves1 that at home it must now be snow and frost1 while keen ,boreas is whirling the snowflakes aloft1 and howling a grim accompaniment the while6 ,however1 we promised ourselves the satisfaction of enjoying these pleasures at our own firesides1 whereupon our recollections of home and dear friends imparted to our minds a wholesome stimulus1 arising from the soul-inspiring conviction1 that we too were present in their minds and hearts at this hallowed season4 ,nay1 several of the officers of the ,novara ,expedition were surprised when far at sea1 in the very midst of the ,indian ,ocean1 with ,christmas gifts1 which thoughtful friends had many months before entrusted to the care of discreet fellow-voyagers4 ,after constantly struggling against calms and contrary winds1 exactly at the first stroke of the ,new ,year1 at midnight of #cast ,december-#ast ,january1 we reached the ,equator1 which we were now crossing for the second time1 and began the year #aheh in the ,northern ,hemisphere4 ,on this ,new ,year's ,day we had nearly had a great disaster4 ,a lad who was coming down the shrouds fell overboard4 ,the sea was perfectly calm and smooth1 but already on the morning of this very day we had seen many sharks1 those dreaded foes of man in the domain of ocean1 so that the life of the unfortunate youth seemed seriously imperilled4 ,the same instant in which the youth fell1 saw a life-buoy thrown over1 a boat prepared for lowering1 and all usual appliances for a rescue made available4 ,but although an excellent swimmer1 he seemed to lose all presence of mind1 probably through fear1 and must undoubtedly have been drowned1 had not the boatswain's mate1 and two other sailors1 leaped into the water and made all haste to his assistance4 ,meanwhile the boat had been got into the water1 by which rescued and rescuers were got safe on board again4 ,a few months later1 the boatswain's mate1 for his gallant conduct on this occasion1 received1 by the express orders of ,his ,majesty1 the silver cross of merit1 while the sailors were advanced one grade4 ,the current1 which runs northward along the coast of ,australia1 but turns off to the westward about the tenth degree of ,south latitude1 so as to pass southward of ,ceylon1 directly along the ,equator to the ,coast of ,africa1 carried us far to the westward1 in consequence of which we had overcast1 uncertain weather1 with1 for the most part1 calms or light breezes4 ,as we found ourselves approaching the fourth degree of ,northern latitude1 a rather fresh ,n4,e4 wind sprung up1 probably the trade wind of the ,northern ,hemisphere1 which1 however1 as we neared ,ceylon1 again died away to a calm4 ,at the same time1 in lat4 #e #cb' ,n41 #gi #e' ,e41 we fell in with a current running more than two miles an hour4 ,we had1 as it turned out1 got to the westward of the roadstead of ,point de ,galle1 in ,ceylon1 and found some little difficulty in making headway against the current4 ,on #gth ,january1 toward #c4cj ,p4,m41 land was made to the eastward1 and an hour later1 a ,cingalese canoe was perceived making for the frigate under sail4 ,it was the pilot boat1 whose crew1 having been informed by a ,hamburg brig that a large ship was in sight1 had put to sea to meet us4 ,at the first sight of this little canoe1 it was hardly possible to refrain from amazement at the courage and hardihood with which the half-naked ,cingalese boatmen could put off some #cj or #dj miles to sea in such a tiny1 narrow boat1 that barely gives them room to sit lengthwise4 ,two cross-bars1 or outriggers1 projecting on one side1 where they are fastened externally to a rather massive beam1 which swims parallel with the boat1 gave this canoe1 apparently so fragile1 such stability and seaworthiness1 that it is at all times not less safe than a boat of ,european construction4#gf ,footnote #gf3 ,these canoes resemble very closely the proas1 of the ,polynesian ,islands1 carrying a beam on one side1 which is quite straight1 and always kept on the lee of the wind and sea1 the change of course being effected by simply shifting the sail1 and steering with the paddle from the opposite end4 ,the natives steer with short paddles1 and continue an incredibly long time at this most exhausting work1 as we must conceive it to be4 ,and yet they are to appearance a feeble race1 except that the muscular system of the upper part of the body is remarkably developed4 ,the dress of these people is remarkably simple1 and usually consists only of a piece of coloured linen cloth or calico1 which1 worn short like a woman's petticoat1 is thrown single-fold round the loins4 ,the pilot1 though he could only make himself intelligible in broken ,english1 speedily came to a good understanding1 and offered to sell us bananas1 pine-apples1 and cocoa-nuts1 as also ,ceylon jewels1 the latter of which he carried on his person1 secured in a parti-coloured cotton belt4 ,this reminded us that we were nearing the shores of the country in which costly stones are found1 but precisely on that account1 as was natural1 our speculative pilot found but a poor market for his wares4 ,off the coast we caught a shark #g feet long1 and #ace lbs4 weight--a rather juvenile specimen--whose teeth1 which we examined1 were already strong and sharp enough to seize a man1 and strip the flesh off him4 ,also a number of large dolphins and other fish1 sported in the dead water under the frigate's stern1 and provided plentiful employment for the harpoon and the rod4 ,presently we found ourselves within six miles of the land1 when a large number of pirogues forthwith came swarming about us1 all of a construction similar to the pilot boat1 and each manned by four half-naked bronze natives4 ,these offered fruits for sale1 especially magnificent1 gigantic clusters of banana4 ,on one such cluster we counted1 arranged in five rows1 one over the other1 not less than #age bananas4 ,on the #hth ,january1 we anchored in the unpicturesque haven of ,point de ,galle1 surrounded by groves of cocoa-nut palms1 directly opposite the lighthouse tower1 and in a fine quartz sand bottom of #af-a_/b fathoms 7#ajc feet ,english74 ,all large ships1 that only intend remaining a short time1 anchor in the open roadstead1 the entrance into the inner harbour being rather difficult1 owing to numerous coral reefs4 ,in the roads also lay the ,english frigate ,shannon1 from which1 in the absence of her captain1 the first lieutenant immediately came on board the ,novara1 and in the handsomest manner put his services at our disposal4 ,as the only ,austrian ,consul on the island was resident in ,colombo1 ,m4 ,sonnenkalb1 the ,consul for ,hamburg1 had the courtesy to receive us with the most hospitable of welcomes1 and proceeded to do us the honours of the place4 ,on the #ajth we hauled the frigate into the small inner harbour1 in order to facilitate the shipping of stores4 ,the entrance is rather winding1 owing to the numerous shoals1 and it is with some little difficulty that one can find a comfortable1 commodious berth among such a crowd of shipping4 ,we only saluted the flag of the dominant nationality--a customary courtesy--and were replied to by the batteries on shore4 ,an officer of the frigate was then dispatched to announce our arrival to the governor of the station--a major in the ,english army4 ,this gentleman seemed not to think it incumbent on him to put himself in the least out of his way for us4 ,indeed1 we even experienced some little difficulty in procuring a sufficient supply of drinking water for shipment as stores2 but we must at the same time add1 in justice to the representatives of ,england in distant countries1 that during our entire voyage this was the one solitary instance in which ,english military official men did not display that universal readiness to oblige1 which1 to their credit1 is so conspicuously and so kindly displayed by them in their intercourse with foreign nations4 ,illustration3 ,,cingalese ,,canoe4 ,illustration3 ,,view ,,of ,,adam',s ,,peak ,,from ,,colombo4 ,,viii4 ,ceylon4 ,,stay ,,from #h,,th ,,to #af,,th ,,jan41 #aheh4 ,neglect of the ,island hitherto by the ,english ,government4-- ,better ,prospects for the ,future4--,the ,cingalese1 their ,language and ,customs4--,buddhism and its ,ordinances4--,visit to a ,buddhist ,temple in the ,vicinity of ,galle4--,the sacred ,bo-tree4--,other ,aborigines of ,ceylon4--,the ,weddhs4-- ,traditions as to their ,origin4--,galle as a ,city and ,harbour4-- ,snake-charmers4--,departure for ,colombo4--,cultivation of the ,cocoa-nut ,palm1 a benevolent1 ,buddha-pleasing work4-- ,polyandria2 or1 ,community of ,husbands4--,supposed ,origin4-- ,annual ,exportation of ,cocoa-nuts4--,rest-houses for ,travellers4--,curry1 the ,national ,dish4--,a ,misfortune and its ,consequences4--,the ,catholic ,mission of ,st4 ,sebastian de ,makun1 and ,father ,miliani4--,annoying ,delays with restive ,horses4-- ,colombo4--,a ,stroll through the ,pettah or ,black ,town4--,ice ,trade of the ,americans with ,tropical ,countries4--,cinnamon ,gardens and ,cinnamon ,cultivation4--,consequences of the ,monopoly of ,cinnamon4--,rise and ,expansion of the ,coffee ,culture in ,ceylon4--,pearl-fishery4--,latest ,examination of the ,ceylon ,banks of ,pearl ,oysters1 by ,dr4 ,kelaart1 and its ,results4--,aripo at the ,season of ,pearl-fishing4--,the ,divers4-- ,pearl-lime1 a ,chewing ,substance of wealthy ,malays2--,annual ,profit of the ,pearl-fishery4--,origin of the ,pearl4--,poetry and ,natural ,science4--,artificial ,production of the ,pearl4--,the ,chank-shell--,the ,wealth of ,ceylon in ,precious ,stones4--,visit to a ,cocoa-nut ,oil ,manufactory4--,the ,cowry-shell1 a ,promoter of the ,slave ,trade4--,discovery of valuable ,cingalese ,,mss4 on ,palm-leaves4--,the heroic ,poem of ,mahawwanso1 and ,turner's ,english ,translation of it4--,hospitality of ,english ,officials in ,colombo4--,a second ,visit to ,father ,miliani4--,agreeable ,reception4--,the ,antidote-oil against ,bites of ,poisonous ,snakes4--,adventures on the ,journey back to ,galle4--,ascent of ,adam's ,peak by two ,members of the ,expedition4--,the sacred ,footprint4--,descent4--,the ,bullock-bandy1 or ,native ,waggon4-- ,departure from ,galle for ,madras4--,the ,bassos 7shallows74--,a ,berlin ,rope-dancer among the ,passengers4--,nyctalopia2 or1 ,night ,blindness4--,fire on board4--,arrival in ,madras ,roads4 ,the inquirer who becomes acquainted by personal examination with the important geographical position of the ,island of ,ceylon 7called also ,seilan or ,singhala71 her commodious harbours1 her productiveness1 and her marvellous climate1 involuntarily wonders at the stepmother's part that ,england has hitherto played with respect to this renowned island of palms and spices1 the ,malta of the ,indian ,ocean1 which of all the ,british possessions in distant parts of the earth1 has1 till recently1 received the least care or attention4 ,it must be borne in mind1 however1 that ,ceylon is an appanage of the ,british ,crown1 and it is not an independent1 self-supporting colony4 ,those shortcomings of administration1 for which the mother country is exclusively responsible1 have been hitherto a complete drag upon her development4 ,but the ,english people have this advantage over all other nations1 that once anything has been recognized to be useful and imperatively required1 they proceed to apply it with such energy1 that they are enabled to make up for any neglect with giant strides4 ,during late years many fetters have been knocked off which formerly impeded the more active development of agriculture and commerce4 ,the harbour of ,point de ,galle 7also called only ,galle for shortness7 has become a central station for the steam-boat trade with the ,east ,indies1 the ,burmese ,archipelago1 ,china1 and ,australia4 ,a telegraphic wire will ere long stretch from ,ceylon to ,england1 such as even now unites the island with the ,coromandel ,coast and ,india2 a railway is in course of construction between the most important commercial centres of the island1 and so obvious are the fundamental benefits it must confer1 that ere long the classical and incomparably beautiful island of ,ceylon is destined to shine a star of the first magnitude in the azure of the ,indian ,ocean1 one of the most prosperous1 wealthy1 and blest of islands6 ,the scientific researches of all kinds1 which have in modern days been instituted in ,ceylon1 have been attended with the most important results1 bearing upon its history and its various tribes1 as well as on its natural wealth2 and the masterly and marvellous work ,sir ,emerson ,tennent lately published on the isle of ,ceylon1 seems intended to compensate for many instances of neglect which ,ceylon and its inhabitants have experienced from the ,english since they seized on it4 ,embracing all the three kingdoms of nature1 and following up with learned accuracy the history of the inhabitants1 from the obscure traditions attending their earliest settlement down to the present day1 ,sir ,emerson ,tennent's work is a perfect pattern of a monography1 although upon this subject the ,german inquirer will involuntarily1 and not without an emotion of pride1 recall to mind ,carl ,ritter's admirable1 well-digested publication upon ,ceylon1 in his classical work on ,eastern ,asia1 doubly meritorious by the very fact that the ,german scholar never set foot in the country itself4 ,there are1 however1 indeed few spots on earth which present such inexhaustible subjects for the study of the historian as well as the inquirer into physical science1 of the poet and the political economist1 as this romantically-beautiful island1 which we have been taught to regard as the ,garden of the ,world1 as indeed the special site of the ,garden of ,eden1 the first abode of the progenitors of the human race4 ,we have not to do here1 as in most of the islands of southern seas1 with a savage people1 that have only1 since the first appearance of ,europeans1 emerged from a state of barbarism1 and been raised one step towards civilization1 but rather find1 as in the ,east ,indies and ,china1 a peculiar type of civilization1 which1 although widely differing from that of ,europe1 yet seems not less valuable and extraordinary4 ,the whites 7scarce #gjjj in number1 of whom #bdhb are females71 who live scattered over an area of #bd1gjj ,english square miles1 have hitherto been too few in number to exercise any marked influence on the customs or mode of life of a native coloured population of #a1gbf1fdj souls1 and hence it is that ,ceylon exhibits a more romantic and characteristic air than any other ,british settlement in distant parts of the globe4 ,a people like the ,cingalese1 of such ardent imaginativeness1 with a splendid history1 and a religion professed in the various realms of the ,east by more than #cjj millions of people1 gains in interest the more we become acquainted with them1 and the more we make their traditions1 their mode of life1 and their customs1 the object of special inquiry4 ,the ,cingalese1 or indigenous natives 7so named to distinguish them from the other inhabitants of the island1 belonging to other stocks and amalgamated races1 who at various periods had settled here1 and who call themselves ,ceylonese71 were entirely the offspring of ,hindoo emigrants1 who1 about five centuries before the birth of ,christ1 came from ,hindostan to ,ceylon1 and imported their own mode of government1 and system of caste1 as also their arts1 language1 and religion1 from the continent into the island4 ,they constitute the germ of the present population1 and early divided themselves into four leading castes3--#ast1 that of the royal family2--#bnd1 the ,brahmins2--#crd1 the merchants1 peasants1 and shepherds2--and #dth1 the sixty inferior common castes4 ,at present there exist in ,ceylon only the two latter4 ,the most numerous is that of the peasants1 who1 however1 meddle but little with the cultivation of the soil1 but have arrogated to themselves the exclusive and hereditary possession of all employments1 lay or ecclesiastical4 ,the dress of the ,cingalese usually consists of a cloth wound turban-fashion round their head1 and long white drapery4 ,on festive occasions they wear richly-adorned tight-fitting jackets of velvet or wool1 and on such occasions rank and power assert themselves by the number of garments1 to such an extent that frequently a wealthy man makes his appearance in several of these habiliments1 worn one above the other4 ,the ,cingalese are shorter in stature than the ,europeans1 their average stature being #e feet #d inches to #e feet #e inches1 ,english4 ,their physique1 though graceful and delicate1 is powerful and muscular1 with a brawny breast1 broad shoulders1 the muscles of the thigh strongly developed1 but with disproportionately small hands and feet4 ,their colour is commonly a light-brown1 their hair black and quite straight4 ,the women are beautifully formed1 but even when they can1 like ,asokamalla of historic fame1 boast all the forty and six marks of the ,cingalese ideal1#gg they must fall far short of the ,european standard of female beauty1 with their bodies anointed with oil1 and their mouths stained with the betel-nut4 ,as the ,cingalese girls usually marry so early as #ab years of age1 they speedily lose the bloom of youth1 and frequently have the appearance of crones at #bj4 ,another especially loathsome habit of the ,cingalese is the chewing the betel-nut1 a custom so universally prevalent among all ,indian races1 that not merely the men and women1 but the very children exhibit an extraordinary predilection for it4 ,the ingredients of this masticatory consist of the green tender leaves of the ,betel-pepper-shrub 7,piper betle71 the nut of the areca-palm 7,areca catechu1 or cabbage-tree71 some lime made of calcined shells1 and tobacco1 which1 according to the rank of the individual1 they keep ready prepared by their side1 in silver or brass boxes1 resembling snuff-boxes4 ,these corrosive substances at the same time stain the saliva so deep a red1 that1 after long use1 the lips and teeth seem as though smeared with blood4 ,footnote #gg3 ,of these forty-six perfections of womanly beauty we extract the following by way of example1 from a ,cingalese author3--hair1 glossy as the tail of a peacock1 and hanging in ringlets to the knee1 eye-brows like the rainbow1 eyes like sapphire1 and the leaves of the manilla flower1 a hawk nose1 lips lustrous and red as coral1 teeth small and regular1 like the buds of the jasmine1 neck thick and round1 haunches broad1 breast firm1 and conical like the cocoa-nut1 the figure slight1 capable of being spanned by the hand1 the limbs spindle-shaped1 the sole of the foot without any hollow1 the skin free from any prominence of the bones1 sweeping in rounded curves1 soft and tender4 ,the language is an offshoot of the ,sanscrit1 copious1 harmonious1 and full of expression1 with threefold grammar1 and as many vocabularies1 viz4 for the royal tongue1 the official or court tongue1 and that of society at large4 ,to these there must be added the ,pali1 the learned1 but obsolete written language of the priestly caste1 which the ,cingalese have in common with the kingdoms of ,siam and ,ava1 in the further ,indies4 ,in this language1 itself but a dialect of the ,sanscrit1 all their sacred books1 traditions1 and poetry are written4 ,in many parts of the island the knowledge of language and written lore are held in such high honour1 that grammar and literature form the entire study of the inhabitants4 ,reading and writing are as common among the ,cingalese as in ,england1 except that in ,ceylon the women take no part therein4 ,they do not write as we do1 with quill or steel pen upon paper1 but engrave the characters with a fine-pointed iron graver1 or stylus1 upon the leaves of the ,talipot palm-tree 7,corypha umbraculifera71 from which they slice a broad strip for the purpose about #b feet long1 and several inches broad4 ,these require no further preparation than that they must be well smoothed beforehand1 and all inequalities removed4 ,in order to render the writing more clear and legible1 the ,cingalese rub it with a mixture of cocoa-nut oil and fine pulverized wood-ashes1 which imparts to it durability and prevents obliteration4 ,great numbers1 however1 use the leaves of another species of palm for writing upon1 viz4 the ,palmyra palm 7,borassus flabelliformis71 but those of the ,talipot are preferred to all others for their closeness of texture1 and are alone used in important records and other documents4 ,the religion of the ,cingalese is ,buddhism1 which in ,ceylon still flourishes in these times in all its pristine vigour4 ,buddha is not the name of the founder of this belief1 who is called ,gautama1 or ,sakja-,muni1 but is only one of the numerous titles of honour invented by that personage1 who in the ,sanscrit figures so conspicuously as a sage4 ,gautama was born in the province of ,maghada 7now known as ,reha71 in ,northern ,hindostan1 ,b4,c4 #fbd4 ,his parents were ,suddhodana1 ,king of ,magadha1 and his consort ,maja4 ,contemplating the degeneracy and misery of man1 sunk in deepest woe1 ,gautama attacked the doctrine of ,brahma1 rejected the ,vedas1 or holy books1 and founded the new faith1 which consists of the following fundamental propositions3--,the ,creator and ,ruler of the world is a supreme1 invisible1 purely spiritual 7and for that reason obviously impossible to be figured7 ,being1 almighty1 wise1 just1 beneficent1 and merciful4 ,man most fitly recognizes and honours the ,deity by silent contemplation3 by the practice of chastity1 temperance1 and virtue he attains to happiness4 ,the complete fulfilment of all his duties confers on him here on earth the dignity of a ,buddha1 or sage1 and after death consigns him to the beatific repose of non-existence#gh 7,nirwana74 ,condemned souls are born again in the forms of wild animals4 ,according to ,gautama's teaching a fresh ,buddha always appears at certain epochs1 whose existence is manifested by his extraordinary spiritual powers1 by his deeds1 and by his prophecies1 selected by destiny for the purpose of enlightening the world as to the decrees of the ,supreme ,being1 and to restore religion to her pristine purity4 ,the death of a ,buddha is also the commencement of a new reckoning of time4 ,gautama1 who died about ,b4,c4 #edb1 or some #bdjj years since1 was the forty-fifth and last ,buddha that appeared to the ,cingalese2 his doctrine must continue to operate for #ejjj years1 when1 according to the ,cingalese traditions1 the next ,buddha1 or ,purifier1 will appear4 ,gautama's belief1 bequeathed by him to his disciple1 the ,brahmin ,mahakaja1 was immediately translated into ,sanscrit1 and speedily spread4 ,several hundred temples and monuments dedicated to him are scattered in various parts of the island1 and remain to this day an evidence of the extent and influence of ,buddhism4 ,footnote #gh3 ,the ten precepts of the moral code of ,buddhism are as follows3--,kill no living creature--do not steal--follow no unclean occupation--tell no lies or untruths--drink no fermented liquors--live exclusively on vegetables--anoint neither the head nor the body--go to no singing parties or spectacles--do not sleep on a raised nor on a wide bed-- eat but once a day1 and before noon4 ,illustration3 ,,buddha ,,temple ,,near ,,galle4 ,on the day of our arrival we at once set off to visit one of these ,buddhist temples1 in the vicinity of ,galle4 ,the edifice is small and insignificant1 only the carved woodwork of the door presenting any object of interest as a work of art4 ,in the interior is a gigantic figure of ,buddha1 carved in wood1 and in a reclining position2 it is #bj feet long1 and painted yellow and red1 with long flaps to the ears1 and a lotus flower on the head2 while on the walls around1 richly decorated with scrollwork1 dragons and lions1 part painted1 part sculptured1 various interesting episodes are represented in the history of ,buddhism4 ,right in front of the figure are placed a number of offerings of the most miscellaneous description1 beneath which are flowers and fruits2 a small tin box is also particularly conspicuous1 into which every stranger is expected to drop a piece of silver by way of present4 ,adjoining such a temple are always to be found the wiharas1 or residences of the priests 7hamaduruhs71 and the spot where preaching and teaching are carried on4 ,the priests wear long wide vestures1 yellow or white according to their rank1 or else only a single yellow outer garment1 which falls in the form of graceful drapery over the naked shoulders2 their heads are shaved1 and they walk about quite barefoot1 with a parasol of ,talipot palm in their hand1 and observe with strangers a reserved1 distrustful demeanour4 ,we were conducted all round by a young priest1 of about #bj years of age1 who spoke a little ,english1 which is not a very common accomplishment1 since the ,buddhists have a great dislike for all that is foreign4 ,only at the conclusion of our visit did the old1 grey1 half-blind superior priest make his appearance1 saluted us1 but immediately left us to snatch from a boy a shaddock 7,citrus decumana71 which is especially prized by the ,cingalese on account of the refreshing qualities of its juice4 ,the priestly office1 however1 does not deter a native from indulging the disgusting habit of chewing the betel-nut1 and this aged hamaduruh became much more sociable on receiving some4 ,adjoining the temple1 which stands in a charming cocoa-nut grove1 we first got an idea of the extraordinary luxuriance of the vegetation of this island4 ,in a single enclosure1 not much larger than an ordinary house-garden1 we saw coffee-trees1 cinnamon-bushes1 clove-trees1 nutmeg-trees1 7,areca catechu71 oranges1 lemons1 pine-apples1 and bread-fruit trees 7,arctocarpus incisa71 flourishing in wildest profusion4 ,a second temple1 which we also visited1 was the ,dadle ,panzela1 the largest in the province1 and the seat of the high-priest of the ,buddhists4 ,this worthy personage1 a septuagenary1 is named ,nanalangara ,seresumana ,mahdamaradjigur ,ganatchari-,naikunangi1 and is surrounded by a staff of priests of the temple who are reputed holy1 and who apparently venerate him as a superior being4 ,this temple did not differ much in construction and arrangement from the first2 but the place set apart for instruction1 where1 at the time of our visit1 some youths were busily engaged in copying the sacred books upon palm leaves1 as also the residences of the priests1 made a much more imposing impression1 and spoke of a certain degree of opulence4 ,in the midst of a piece of ground laid out like a garden was planted the sacred ,bo-tree1 which is looked upon as holy by the ,buddhists1 because1 according to an ancient tradition1 ,buddha was in the habit of reposing under the shadow of its branches1 as often as he visited the earth4 ,towering above everything wherever a ,buddhist temple is raised1 there a ,bo-tree is planted2 but the particular sacred tree1 the original plant from which the legend took its rise1 grows at ,anaradnapura1 in the northern part of the former kingdom of ,kandi1 whither it had been suddenly translated from a far-distant land1 and spontaneously took root in the spot where it at present stands1 in order to serve as a protection and shelter for ,buddha4#gi ,ninety ,cingalese monarchs are interred around it1 all of whom1 by the temples and statues they erected to ,buddha1 are deemed worthy of this pre-eminent mark of distinction4 ,footnote #gi3 ,the sacred ,bo-tree 7,ficus religiosa7 of the ,buddhists is frequently confounded with the ,banyan ,tree 7,ficus ,indica71 held in such honour by the ,brahmins1 from which latter it differs in this1 that it does not throw out from its branches numberless twigs which take root again in the earth4 ,the incessant waving and rustling of the leaves and branches1 which is common to both species of ,ficus1 is regarded by the faithful ,buddhists as the effect of a fear-instilling scene of which the sage was once witness under the ,bo-tree2 just as the ,syrian ,christians deduce1 from the fact that the ,holy ,cross was manufactured out of aspen-wood1 that this tree is trembling1 even in our days1 with anguish and terror4 ,singular1 what an important part the fig-tree seems to play in all religions1 including the ,christian and the ,mahometan6 ,the grey-headed high-priest permitted the library of the temple to be shown to us1 which consists of a large number of ,pali manuscripts1 inscribed on ,talipot leaves1 each of which was enclosed between two elegant boards made of calamander wood 7,diopyrus hirsuta71 fastened with strings1 and enveloped in numerous folds of cloth1 the whole guarded with singular reverence1 in lofty1 broad1 wooden cupboards1 richly carved4 ,when we returned1 the chief priest requested us to give him our names1 and that of the country we came from1 upon which a young priest carefully wrote down with a goose quill on a sheet of paper1 in ,cingalese language1 apparently with the view of showing us civility1 some superficial remarks respecting the ,novara ,expedition4 ,besides the pure ,cingalese1 the island is also inhabited by ,hindoos from the ,malabar coast1 ,moors 7the descendants of wandering ,arabs and ,mahometans from northern ,india1 who at present carry on the greater part of the trade of the island71 ,malays1 ,javanese2 then ,portuguese1 ,dutch1 ,british of the various nationalities comprised under that title2 and1 lastly1 ,negroes from ,mozambique and ,madagascar1 who have formed alliances with the ,cingalese1 and are rearing a numerous mixed race4#hj ,footnote #hj3 ,what is related by various writers of the practice of running a muck 7a custom that seems to recall the frightful blood-feuds of the ,corsicans71 long supposed to be peculiar to ,ceylon1 in which a ,malay thirsting for revenge1 and armed with a naked kreese1 or dagger1 rushes through the streets like a madman1 yelling ,amock1 ,amock 7kill1 kill71 and runs the fearful weapon through the body of the very first person he meets1--seems to be founded on a mistake4 ,no one could give us any particulars on the subject from personal observation4 ,sir ,emerson ,tennant too1 in his work on ,ceylon1 passes over this custom of running a muck1 without a syllable of mention4 ,evidently the custom is not naturalized in this island4 ,it now prevails among the ,malays of the ,sunda archipelago1 while in ,ceylon no instance has occurred within the memory of man4 ,that this tendency to murder is caused by the use of opium likewise appears improbable4 ,crawford1 in his most excellent descriptive dictionary of the ,indian islands1 speaking of running a muck1 pretends it results frequently from a monomania taking this particular form1 and originating in disorders of the digestive organs4 ,deep in the interior of the island1 in the province of ,bintang1 ,n4,e4 from ,kandi1 and towards ,trincomalee and ,batacalva1 in holes in the earth1 or under the palm-leaves1 reside the tribe of the ,weddhs or ,veddhs1 the most savage race in the island1 traditionally said to be the aborigines proper1 who go about naked1 with the exception of a girdle round the loins1 and use only bows and javelins1 which however they manufacture and handle with great dexterity4 ,according to one of the various ,cingalese traditions1 these ,weddhs are the descendants of a very bloodthirsty1 cannibal monarch1 who1 deposed by his people1 was only permitted the alternative of death1 or of withdrawing with the ministers of his cruelty to roam for ever amid the solitudes of the forest4 ,the dethroned king chose the latter alternative1 and thus became the little-to-be-envied progenitor of this rude savage race4 ,at any rate it seems worthy of note1 that these ,weddhs1 destitute though they are of the remotest traces of civilization1 are still regarded as belonging to the privileged caste4 ,owing to the shortness of our stay1 we unfortunately had no opportunity of visiting the interior of the island1 or of seeing these ,weddhs4 ,with difficulty did we tear ourselves from the zone of the cocoa-nut growth1 and therefore only got acquainted with two places on the island1 ,galle and ,colombo1 the latter the seat of government4 ,illustration3 ,,interior ,,of ,a ,,house ,,at ,,galle4 ,galle is1 from its position1 as also from its configuration1 indisputably the best and most important harbour in the south and west of the island1 as ,colombo can only be regarded as an open1 insecure roadstead4 ,founded in the sixteenth century by the ,portuguese1 conquered at a later period by the ,dutch1 and finally1 at the peace of ,amiens1 transferred to the ,english1 ,galle displays singularly few traces of its different masters4 ,the streets are narrow1 but cleanly2 the houses are for the most part constructed of earth1 with verandahs1 or airy colonnades towards the street1 and rooms within1 plastered to imitate stone1 of spacious dimensions1 as is desirable1 considering the heat of the climate4 ,as one enters from the roadway at once into the sitting apartment1 and as the door stands wide open all day to admit a free current of air1 a sort of open screen-work is usually put up before the entrance1 to prevent a too minute inspection of the interior1 by the prying eyes of inquisitive passers-by4 ,at ,galle we1 for the first time1 saw the ,punkah1 a sort of fan peculiar to ,india1 which stretches from one end of the roof of the room to the other1 and being swung to and fro by a servant produces a refreshing coolness4 ,here1 too1 we first became acquainted with the ,gecko 7,hemidactylus maculatus71 an elegant little house-lizard1 which1 with graceful agility1 runs to and fro upon the walls1 windows1 and roofs1 and speedily becomes as familiar with man as a pet-dog or kitten4 ,they usually make their appearance towards evening1 when1 without the slightest symptoms of timidity1 they begin their surprising evolutions1 during which they catch gnats with astonishing dexterity1 and although they are disagreeable objects to all new comers1 one speedily becomes accustomed to these harmless1 innocuous1 playful little animals1 of which the ,ceylonese are in the habit of relating many interesting and amusing anecdotes4 ,of late years1 during which ,galle has risen into considerable importance1 as the converging point of the lines of steamers to ,eastern ,india1 ,china1 and ,australia1 the number of substantial houses has greatly increased1 and several large hotels are found here replete with every comfort4 ,like most ,european settlements in ,india1 the ,cape1 and ,china1 ,galle possesses a fort in which1 at an earlier period1 the ,european colonists dwelt with their wives and families apart from the natives1 and has also a ,pettah1 or ,black ,town1 a sort of ,cingalese ,ghetto1 exclusively inhabited by the black population4 ,at present this separation is not so strenuously enforced as in earlier times1 but whoever would seek to form a more accurate idea of the various races of this population1 its mode of life and its demeanour1 must leave the so-called ,fort1 and wander through the native or ,cingalese quarter4 ,here are the fruit and vegetable markets2 here all was devoted to buying and selling1 which seemed to excite the otherwise listless little covetous disposition of the ,cingalese2 here jugglers and snake-charmers exhibit1 who excite interest rather by the horrible nature and the foolhardiness of the performances1 than by their executing any surprising feats4 ,a belief is prevalent among the people that this singular class of men1 greatly resembling our own gipsies1 possess the art of depriving a poisonous serpent of its venom1 and rendering it innocuous4 ,and1 in fact1 one does see them produce from a white cloth the dreaded ,cobra di ,capello1 #d or #e feet long1 and exquisitely marked1 irritate it violently1 and go through all manner of unpleasant performances with it on their naked bodies4 ,frequently the serpent1 weary of being constantly brought out for exhibition1 endeavours to escape from its tormentor1 whereupon a general scramble for escape takes place among the spectators4 ,every one hurries off to a safe distance1 and the unfortunate charmer is left alone on the scene with his eminently intractable pupil1 and has1 into the bargain1 given his exhibition in vain4 ,as1 however1 it not unfrequently happens that the bite of the ,cobra di ,capello is followed by fatal consequences to the snake-charmer himself1 it is highly probable that the whole mystery resolves itself into courage1 and the shrewdness with which1 availing themselves of the uncommon dread and aversion with which this animal is regarded1 they are able at once to prevent him from making use of his deadly poison fang1 and to put forth their own sleight of hand4 ,this explanation seems also to account for the very remarkable fact that men have ventured to domesticate this dangerous reptile in more places than ,ceylon4 ,indeed1 within the experience of ,major ,skinner1 a thoroughly trustworthy personage1 who has resided for many years on the island1 and to whom the naturalists of the ,expedition are indebted for many acts of kindness1 an instance actually occurred in the neighbourhood of ,negombo1 in which a wealthy man1 who keeps large sums of specie in his house1 bethought him of the singular precaution of having several deadly cobras to watch the treasure in lieu of dogs4 ,day and night they glide about1 a terror to thieves1 while they are quite harmless to the inmates who feed them and attend to them6 ,in former times snake worship 7,nagas7 was universal throughout ,ceylon1 and1 as in ,india1 the cobra received divine honours from the natives1 because it was supposed to be a metamorphosed king4 ,this serpent1 however1 is so singularly and wonderfully endowed by nature1 its appearance and motions are so peculiar1 that an imaginative people like the ,cingalese may well be excused for associating the idea of metempsychosis with its aspect of mystery4 ,from ,galle1 an excellent road1 following the coast-line the entire distance1 leads to ,colombo1 the seat of government1 #ge ,english miles distant4 ,every morning there starts from ,galle for that destination1 the ,royal ,mail coach1 an uncomfortable1 somewhat dangerous1 mode of conveyance1 in which this distance is traversed in from #h to #aj hours4 ,in order to travel more at our ease1 we engaged an extra waggon4 ,in ,ceylon people usually employ1 on long excursions1 but one horse1 which is changed at distances varying from #f to #aj miles4 ,we had some difficulty in reconciling this custom with our predilection for travelling at our leisure4 ,the first few hours of our journey passed away very pleasantly2 the road was excellent1 and the country magnificent and charming4 ,we seemed as though driving through a park inhabited by thousands of men1 and planted with cocoa-nut palms--amidst which occasionally the white dome of a ,buddhist temple1 or the minarets of a ,mahometan mosque1 shooting up above the summits of the palms1 imparted an aspect of life to the landscape--while in the gay bazaars that fringed the road1 the few necessaries of life required by the exceedingly frugal natives were exposed for sale1 temptingly arranged on palm or plantain leaves4 ,the whole south-western coast district is so populous that the huts of the natives were continually in sight1 right and left1 under the forest shade1 and the scenery in consequence seemed as full of life and careless enjoyment as though the people had nothing else to do but walk about under palm-trees4 ,this impression was the more strengthened1 that we rarely perceived a man with anything else in his hand than a ,talipot leaf1 or a ,chinese parasol1 to protect himself against the burning rays of the sun1 which shone almost directly overhead4 ,of the women1 on whom for the most part fall all the troubles and hardships of life among the ,cingalese1 we only saw a few carrying to the city heavy baskets balanced on their heads4 ,the luxuriant1 widely-extending cocoa-nut forests1 which on the south and west sides of the island stretch down to the sea-shore 7whereas on the eastern coast they are altogether absent71 seem independently of the necessity of paying all due care to the maintenance of one of the necessaries of life1 to be specially indebted for their existence to the circumstance that additional planting of this tree1 as also its careful cultivation1 is one of the religious observances and duties of the servants of ,buddha4 ,whoever plants a cocoa-nut1 palm1 or bread-fruit tree1 performs a work agreeable to ,buddha4 ,at the birth of a son1 or on any similar festive occasion1 it is customary to plant a few cocoa-nut shoots in the earth4 ,cocoa-nut palms form a very important part of the property of a family4 ,the father divides them as heritable property into equal portions for bequest to his children4 ,not one single palm but has an owner1 though instances occasionally occur in which several families are supported by the produce of a single palm6 ,this peculiar phenomenon has been followed by most remarkable results bearing upon the social condition of the native population4 ,increasing poverty1 and the ever present grinding necessity of preventing any further subdivision of the joint property1 have impelled the natives to resort to the unnatural remedy of the brothers of a family having but one wife among them6 ,the fact that there are in ,ceylon fully one-tenth more men than women1 was the cause of the rapid spread of this custom1 and upheld ,polyandria1 or plurality of husbands1 as a desirable invention for remedying the deficient supply of females4 ,many a female has three1 four1 or even seven husbands1 and all children that are born of such a wedlock have equal rights1 and are 7differing in this respect from the law of ,hindostan1 by which only the children of the eldest brothers are registered1 as the entire property belongs to him1 while all the younger brothers serve him as vassals1 and can be driven by him out of the house71 the lawful1 recognized heirs of the different fathers4 ,in order to guard against the rise of law-suits respecting birth and heritage among the ,cingalese1 in consequence of their local customs1 the ,british courts of justice1 singular to say1 find themselves constrained to recognize this disgraceful custom1 and to interpret the law with reference to it4 ,although in the maritime provinces plurality of husbands has been signally on the decrease1 owing to foreign influences1 it still prevails to a great extent in the interior of the island4 ,the submissiveness of the ,cingalese to their superiors and their monarchs is assigned as the origin of this in other respects very ancient custom1 which seems to have been universally in use among the various races of the mainland of ,india from time immemorial4 ,constrained to apply their own manual labour in cultivating the land of their tyrants1 and frequently to accompany them on distant journeys1 they thought they could1 during their absence1 most surely protect their own fields and crops against utter ruin1 by apportioning wife and chattels among brothers and nearest relatives1 and thence the family tie was gradually converted into a socialist community4 ,the almost endless cocoa forests1 which we were traversing by splendid1 broad1 level roads1 not alone provide the native with1 to him1 the most important necessary for supporting existence1 but the fruit itself forms at the same time so important and valuable an article of produce1 that the cultivation of the cocoa-nut has been regularly and systematically carried on by ,european enterprise since #ahda--;at present covering an area of #bc1jjj ,english acres--while the proportion of native land on which this1 the most useful growth of the tropics1 is cultivated1 amounts to about #ajj1jjj acres4 ,formerly1 the nuts were shipped to foreign parts for the extraction of their oil2 but for this purpose there are now on the island itself1 especially in ,colombo and ,galle1 a considerable number of manufactories1 at which the oil already expressed from the nuts is usually at once put into casks for exportation4 ,the quantity of oil thus exported annually is estimated at from #a1jjj1jjj to #a1ejj1jjj gallons1 worth from #ajj1jjj to #aej1jjj4 ,besides this1 the elastic fibre of the outer husk of the cocoa-nut is used in the manufacture of ropes1 door-mats1 c41 and1 under the name of ,coir1 forms an important article of export1 the annual consumption averaging between #cj1jjj and #dj1jjj quintals 7centner weight71 worth from #bj1jjj to #be1jjj4 ,the first station on leaving ,galle for ,colombo is ,bentotte1 where1 as is the custom all through the country1 there is a resting-house open to all travellers1 similar to the ,choultries in ,india1 the ,caravanserais1 or lodgings for pilgrims1 in ,eastern countries1 or the ,pasangrahans1 of ,java4 ,these resting-houses1 which all through the interior of the island are found on the highways and forest roads1 are among the oldest institutions of the country1 and were formerly maintained at the expense of private individuals4 ,the resting-houses1 which have been erected under the ,english rule on the main roads of the island1 are in all respects of a far higher class1 and strongly resemble the waiting-rooms of our own 7,german7 railroads4 ,one is not merely provided in these with shelter1 but also with food and drink1 at a fixed tariff4 ,a special committee 7the ,provincial ,road ,committee7 is appointed to superintend the management of these resting-houses4 ,here we partook of a luxurious tiffin1 as the customary meal between breakfast and dinner is called in ,ceylon1 as well as throughout ,india2 and in so doing1 made acquaintance for the first time with the renowned ,indian dish ,curry1 which consists of flesh or fish prepared with a powder compounded of spices4 ,it tastes so hot that the ,european palate only gets accustomed to it by degrees2 but in these countries it is looked on as the favourite dish1 which must never be absent from any meal1 because the cayenne pepper plentifully sprinkled over it1 stimulates the stomach and promotes digestion4 ,hence the curry-powder is in immense request1 and is largely exported4 ,the assertion that this dish was first invented by the ,portuguese is quite erroneous1 as the chronicles of the country establish that it was in request in ,ceylon in the second century before ,christ4#ha ,footnote #ha3 ,according to ,professor ,wilson1 ,curry is but a corruption of the ,carnatic term ,mjkki-,kari1 a dish composed of rice1 sour milk1 spices1 and red pepper4 ,as we mounted into our vehicle again1 after a short halt at ,bentotte1 in order to resume our journey to ,colombo with a fresh horse1 we perceived that our driver1 a negro1 had been too free of his visits to the brandy-bottle1 and occasionally took to rolling on the box4 ,in the hope that he might become sober by the way1 we ventured to proceed1 but ere long he lost his balance1 and fell to the ground1 compelling us1 to avoid further mishap1 to retrace our steps on foot to the nearest village--thus reversing the order of matters1 and1 so to speak1 escorting our horse1 coach1 and driver4 ,this occurrence1 unimportant and hardly worth mentioning in itself1 was the occasion of an interesting adventure4 ,as it was only with much difficulty that we could make ourselves intelligible to the natives1 we resolved to apply to the authorities in the very first place we came to4 ,it turned out that we were in the vicinity of the ,catholic mission of ,st4 ,sebastian de ,makn1 whose superior was a ,benedictine from ,rome4 ,the church is situated amid the rich vegetation of the primeval forests1 the gigantic trunks of whose trees1 supporting a huge diadem of luxuriant foliage1 are arched into a natural dome of the most graceful proportions4 ,with curiosity whetted to the uttermost1 we advanced along a beautiful path1 beneath cocoa-palms1 cabbage trees1 bread-fruit trees1 screw pines1 tree-like ferns1 and broad-leaved bananas1 till we reached the dwelling-house of the ,mission1 and introduced ourselves to the missionary4 ,forthwith the latter1 a tall1 stately figure1 with handsome features and cultivated manners1 and dressed in a woollen robe1 ushered us into a darkened chamber opposite1 and received us most cordially4 ,this worthy priest1 by the name of ,miliani1 was not less surprised at being visited at this solitary mission by ,austrian travellers1 and with the most lively satisfaction and the utmost readiness to oblige1 offered us all the assistance in his power4 ,in spite of our hurry1 we had to take a cup of coffee la ,romagna1 with our hospitable missionary1 and to promise to visit him on our return journey4 ,father ,miliani has already lived many years in this country1 and ministers to a ,christian community of more than #ajjj souls4 ,altogether there are in ,ceylon about #ej ,catholic missionaries under a ,bishop whose residence is in ,colombo4 ,our priestly host was greatly respected by the ,cingalese1 but he evidently was overjoyed at being able once more to express his thoughts and feelings in his native ,italian4 ,it was evening ere1 with many a hearty shake of the hand1 we tore ourselves away from the cordial hospitality of ,st4 ,sebastian de ,makn4 ,horse and driver this time gave hope of faster progress4 ,but we were doomed once more to experience a severe disappointment1 and although we were only about #aj or #ab miles distant from ,colombo1 which was our destination1 it took us five long hours to get over the ground4 ,the night was very dark1 but the road was continually illuminated with torches of palm1 carried by the homeward plodding natives1 which emitted a gloomy light alternating with showers of sparks4 ,when at last we got to ,colombo about midnight1 pretty well knocked-up1 we comforted ourselves with the reflection that the inconveniences attending personal transport between ,galle and the seat of government1 can by no means be classed among events of rare occurrence2 since1 in consequence of the inveterate obstinacy of the native horse1 one must have recourse to the most incredible expedients to get the carriage under weigh4 ,for instance1 at every station the ears of the post-horse were twisted together and then suddenly relaxed in order to set the vehicle in motion2 and1 when this torture failed1 a pole1 or thick stick1 was inserted under the tail of the recalcitrant1 and rubbed up and down till the poor animal1 smarting under this painful operation1 took to the collar4 ,once the carriage is started in this extraordinary fashion1 the coachman swings to and fro at the peril of his life1 and endeavours by continually pitching into the horse1 to keep him at the gallop4 ,thus between whooping and whipping the next station is reached1 where the same trial of patience awaits the traveller1 and a similar martyrdom for the next horse4 ,our first business the following morning was to take a walk through ,colombo1 which1 like ,galle1 consists of ,the ,fort1 or ,white ,city1 and the ,pettah1 or ,black ,quarter1 in the latter of which are situated the houses and shops of the natives1 and where the chief traffic and the greatest activity are combined4 ,here one rarely encounters a white man1 for even the soldiers and police belong to the brown and black races4 ,the natives1 however1 manifest1 outwardly at least1 a great respect for the whites1 and everywhere draw aside reverentially when one makes his appearance4 ,in the middle of the main street are some ,buddhist temples4 ,we were not1 however1 permitted to enter1 unless we consented to take off our shoes4 ,at several of the natives' houses the entrance porch and windows were gaily adorned with plantain leaves4 ,on inquiring of our ,cingalese attendant what was the occasion of this manifestation1 he replied in broken ,english that the inmates were celebrating ,christmas1 wishing probably to express that the natives celebrated a feast analogous to our ,christmas4 ,the filth and unsavoury odours which prevail in the ,black ,quarter1 and the noise and yelling of the natives1 speedily drive visitors back to the ,european portion of the city1 which altogether1 with its gloomy1 decayed aspect1 makes anything but a favourable impression4 ,the public buildings1 the houses of the mercantile community1 the warehouses1 and fortifications1 all bear the impress of the ,portuguese settlement of bygone centuries2 and as its commerce is attracted more and more every year to ,galle1#hb there remains but faint hope that this quaint type will not ere long be effaced by a new style of building1 albeit the inhabitants of the capital promise themselves a restored reign of activity and energy1 as the result of railway communication with ,galle4 ,footnote #hb3 ,the value of the produce exported annually from the island 7chiefly cocoa-nuts1 coir1 cinnamon1 and coffee71 is above #b1jjj1jjj1 and the imports of ,european manufactures are about the same amount4 ,during our random promenade through the streets of what is called the ,fort1 we perceived at a sugar-baker's in ,chatham ,street--the most select quarter of ,colombo1 and containing the most important warehouses1 which1 however1 are far from elegant in their appearance--some rough ice offered for sale1 which had a curious effect in a town so near the ,equator1 and presenting such few evidences of luxury in other respects4 ,this ice is brought round the ,cape of ,good ,hope from the ,united ,states1 and is chiefly shipped from ,boston4 ,the daily consumption of iced-water1 ices1 and so forth1 is estimated at about #ajjj lbs41 costing about one shilling the #h lbs4 ,it is impossible to repress a feeling of astonishment at these speculative ,yankees who1 despite all obstacles interposed by temperature1 transport in all directions and over thousands of miles an article so perishable1 so easily destructible as ice1 and are able to drive a profitable business in it in the hottest and most diverse regions of the globe--in the ,west ,indies and ,south ,america1 in ,asia1 and in ,africa4 ,the traveller who visits ,colombo will hardly fail to make an excursion to the ,cinnamon ,garden1 in order to inhale the fragrant and peculiar aroma1 and enjoy tasting the tender rind of this remarkable shrub1 which plays so conspicuous a part in the history of ,ceylon4 ,during the palmy days of cinnamon culture1 the five principal cinnamon plantations of the southern half of the island extended some #ae or #bj miles4 ,for this one lucrative product of the soil all others on the island were abandoned1 with most deplorable consequences4 ,the cinnamon culture1 a monopoly of the various governments which one after another conquered ,ceylon1 and domineered over its inhabitants1 was carried on1 especially by the ,dutch ,east ,india ,company1 with terrible severity4 ,the slightest embezzlement of cinnamon1 or wilful damage to the plant1 was visited with death4 ,the unintentional breaking off of a twig of the cinnamon bush was punished with amputation of the offending member4 ,every cinnamon bush1 even to those growing in the gardens of private individuals1 was the property of the ,government1 and the cinnamon collector1 or even cinnamon-peeler alone1 had the right to strip off the rind when ripe4 ,to destroy such a plant1 or even to dispose of it to any one1 was regarded as a crime affecting life4 ,the labourers1 who were employed in the cutting off1 peeling1 and preparation of the rind1 belonged to the caste of ,chalias1 and constituted the lowest grade of that class4 ,in like manner1 under the ,english rule1 the monopoly of cinnamon was at first continued1 with such disastrous consequences to the trade that it was finally abandoned in #ahcb1 and the merchants of ,colombo and ,galle were left to divide among themselves the exportation of this important article1 under an exporting duty of #cs4 per lb4 ,these duties1 however1 were found much too high1 as the highest price obtainable in ,europe was from #fs4 to #gs42 and this advance in the price to the trade of the genuine article1 was the cause of foreign merchants turning their attention to the supply of various species of cinnamon-bearing laurels and cassias1 growing in ,cochin-,china and ,java4 ,when ,government1 recovering at last from its delusion of treating cinnamons1 which at first had seemed indigenous to the island of ,ceylon alone on the earth1#hc as a national monopoly1 reduced the export duty to one shilling1 and ultimately repealed it altogether1 the various substitutes had already found their level in ,europe1 as affording a larger supply at a much more moderate rate1 and the cultivation of the finer kinds became less and less each year4 ,prices fell1 and the consumption was diminished4 ,only the coarser sorts repaid exportation4 ,nay1 it even led to the interesting and curious result1 that just as1 previous to the high price under monopoly1 the low-priced cassia displaced the finer sort of genuine cinnamon1 at the present day the coarser sorts of cinnamon are beginning to oust the cassia from the ,english market1 whence all the world are supplied4 ,at present there are from #ad1jjj to #ae1jjj acres planted with cinnamon1 chiefly in private hands1 and producing annually from #hjj1jjj to #ijj1jjj lbs4 of cinnamon1 worth from #dj1jjj to #ej1jjj sterling4 ,footnote #hc3 ,sir ,emerson ,tennent1 in his work 7vol4 i4 p4 #eii71 challenges the assertion that ,ceylon is the native country of the cinnamon-tree4 ,in no ,european or ,asiatic chronicles is any mention made of cinnamon as a product or article of commerce in ,ceylon up to the end of the thirteenth century4 ,although it was from the earliest times imported into ,europe from ,africa through ,arabia1 the natives trading with ,ceylon first knew of the existence on the island of this important shrub about the twelfth or thirteenth century4 ,hence ,sir ,emerson looks upon ,africa as the native country of the cinnamon-tree4 ,the chalias1 moreover1 are no longer1 as formerly under the ,portuguese and ,dutch1 adscripti gleb for life1 or slaves that could be purchased with the soil1 but free labourers1 who are entitled to demand proportionate pay for the lightest services rendered4 ,the ,cinnamon ,gardens in the neighbourhood of ,colombo1 although for the most part gone to decay1 nevertheless impart to the whole scene a singularly cheerful1 agreeable aspect4 ,the bushes1 from #d to #f feet in height1 with their smooth1 beautiful1 light green leaves1 resembling those of the bay-tree1 and their pale1 yellow flower-stamens shoot up doubly fresh and succulent1 from the snow-white quartz soil in which they best thrive4 ,the flowering season of the cinnamon is in ,january1 and the fruit ripens in ,april1 when the sap is richest in the shrub4 ,in ,may the boughs are begun to be barked1 which process continues till ,october4 ,the pruning and gathering of the yearling shoots1 which are about the thickness of a man's thumb1 is very laborious1 and employs many hands4 ,each labourer cuts off as many as he can conveniently carry in a bundle1 then1 with the point of a crooked knife1 made for the express purpose1 strips the entire rind from the wood1 carefully scrapes off the exterior corticle and innermost layer1 and lays the stripped-off cinnamon rind1 now reduced to the thickness of parchment1 in the sun1 where it dries and curls together4 ,all round the hut1 in which the peeling of the rind is carried on1 is diffused a most exquisite aroma1 caused by the breaking of the leaves or twigs4 ,what is related1 however1 by various travellers of the fragrance of the cinnamon forests1 which they have scented at a great distance seaward1 would seem to indicate that this delicious odour emanates from various other aromatic plants in which ,ceylon is so rich1 rather than the cinnamon groves1 the aroma of which1 indeed1 is not perceptible beyond the immediate vicinity4 ,the best description of cinnamon is not so thick as stout paper1 and is fine-grained1 flexible1 light brown1 or golden yellow1 sweet and pungent2 the coarser qualities are thick-skinned1 dark brown1 acrid1 stinging1 and leaves a bitter after-taste4 ,in the warehouses1 the cinnamon rinds and canes sorted for shipping are piled upon each other1 packed in bales of about #ij lbs4 weight each1 and carefully sewed4 ,in all cavities and spaces between each layer an immense quantity of pepper is strewn1 to preserve the cinnamon during its sea-voyage1 by which both spices are benefited1 the black pepper absorbing all the superfluous moisture1 and gaining by the fragrance of the cinnamon4 ,consequent on the diminution of cinnamon cultivation1 which undoubtedly has resulted in great measure from the altered taste of mankind and the consequent extraordinary falling off in the demand for this once highly-prized spice1 the cultivation of coffee in ,ceylon has1 during the last #bj years1 increased tenfold2 and it is solely owing to the dearth of available labour that this branch of produce1 considering the splendid profits it returns1 is not even more extensively carried on4 ,in #bg districts there are #djd coffee plantations1 covering a surface of #hj1iej acres1 of which1 however1 only #fc1gga acres are really productive4 ,these produced last year1 #cdg1ajj cwt41 or #e-a_/b centners per acre4 ,to this must be added the quantity under cultivation by the natives1 who possess about #cf1jjj acres of coffee plantations1 and in the year #ahei alone1 exported #ahj1jjj cwt4 ,we may safely assume1 therefore1 that the cultivation of coffee is on the eve of transforming this island of ,ceylon1 from a mere military station of ,england1 into one of the most flourishing colonies of the ,british ,empire4 ,twenty years ago there were exported barely #fj1jjj centners1 worth #ahj1jjj4 ,in ,september1 #aheh1 the export exceeded #fjj1jjj cwt41 which represented on the spot a value of #a1ejj1jjj sterling4 ,when capital and labour shall have become more plentiful1 remarked to us a by no means over-sanguine resident1 ,ceylon will have in its mountain districts #bdj1jjj acres planted with coffee trees1 yielding at the lowest estimate1 #a1fhj1jjj cwt4 of coffee annually4 ,here1 as among the high table-lands of ,guatemala and ,costa ,rica1 we have the reassuring evidence how one of the most important plants for the civilized man can be profitably cultivated1 without having recourse to the blighting influences of slave-labour1 at the same time making the lands in which it is produced both rich and prosperous4#hd ,footnote #hd3 ,the coffee-tree frequently suffers1 especially in ,ceylon1 from an insect called the coffee-bug 7,lecanium ,coffe72 as1 however1 this troublesome insect has only infested the coffee plantations since #ahdh1 and this branch of cultivation has nevertheless increased so surprisingly since then1 there seems no reason to dread that the coffee plant will suffer by these bugs1 in the same manner or to the same extent as the vine by the ravages of the fungus4 ,while the cultivation of the coffee-plant has been followed by such splendid results1 the repeated attempts to introduce the sugar-cane have been on the contrary as uniformly failures--so that of the numerous plantations established by ,europeans1 there are at present no more than five remaining4 ,in all those localities where the temperature seemed adapted to the growth of the sugar-cane1 the nature of the soil1 and the too great humidity have prevented its thriving4 ,on the other hand1 the island possesses two natural products in which but few spots on the globe are qualified to enter the lists with her1 and which may be expected to increase in value and importance in proportion as science assumes her share in their exploration4 ,these products are ,,pearls and ,,precious ,,stones4 ,the most productive pearl banks lie on the west coast of ,ceylon1 between the #hth and #ith degrees of ,north latitude1 near the level1 dreary beach of ,condatchy1 ,aripo1 and ,manaar4 ,the pearl fisheries are a monopoly1 and1 therefore1 under the inspection of the ,government4 ,former governors had counted too much on the abundance of this natural treasure1 and in their blind haste to fill the coffers of the ,state1 had so exhausted the banks1 that suddenly1 from a source of revenue they became an item of considerable deficiency1 and1 from #ahch to #ahed1 could no longer be dredged4 ,from a net annual return of #abj1jjj sterling1 the yearly return had sunk to #aj1jjj1 of which nearly one-half was consumed in the attendant expenses4 ,now-a-days the work is gone about more circumspectly1 a scientific examination having been made by a native naturalist1 ,dr4 ,kelaart1 of all the oyster banks on the west coast4 ,we had the pleasure1 while at ,colombo1 of becoming personally acquainted with this very able1 unassuming gentleman1 who presented us with several memoirs of his own1 touching upon the latest facts that had been ascertained with reference to the pearl oyster4 ,one special result of his various researches has been the demonstration of two facts of the utmost importance to the pearl fishery1 and which hitherto had not been fully ascertained--that this mollusc possesses locomotive powers2 that its occasional disappearance is perfectly natural2 and that1 moreover1 the pearl oyster may1 without any injury1 be transplanted from one locality to another--nay1 even from salt to brackish water4 ,the first-named observation explains the occasional disappearance of the pearl oyster from certain beds1#he even when they have not been inordinately thinned by too keen a quest after gain2 the latter opens up the pleasing anticipation of the pearl oyster being susceptible of very extensive propagation1 by a process similar to that of pisciculture1 or artificial breeding of fish 7such as the colonies of edible oysters which are met with in the ,south of ,france71 by transplanting them to such places as seem best suited to the conditions necessary to their highest development4 ,what a splendid conception it were to plant the sea-coasts of ,ceylon with pearls1 and thus throw the wealth of the island in precious stones into the shade1 by the treasures she would possess in the depths of the sea6 ,footnote #he3 ,this singular property of the oyster1 in virtue of which it can be fed to as confirmed obesity as a prize-ox1 and admits of nearly as much dexterity in crossing1 if we are to trust the palates of gourmets1 as the ,southdown and ,leicester breeds of sheep1 has received its most extraordinary development in the vicinity of ,new ,york1 where the amount of capital sunk in the oyster trade considerably exceeds #a1jjj1jjj6 ,the finest of these are transferred as spawn from the beds in the ,east ,river1 or ,long ,island ,sound1 to the nurseries1 which are situated in the brackish water near the head of the tide-way1 just below the ,highlands of the ,hudson4 ,here they are carefully tended for some months1 till1 their education being completed1 they are re-transferred to their native beds1 and fed there with oatmeal daily2 while1 by some mystery of the craft1 the spawning season is postponed1 except in the case of those that are selected for propagating the race4 ,exactly at the period of our arrival at ,colombo1 the preparations were being resumed at ,aripo for the take of the oysters1 which commences at the beginning of ,february each year1 and lasts about three weeks4 ,it is1 in fact1 a sort of jubilee time for the people1 at which the ,governor and numbers of the wealthier classes mingle with the populace4 ,ordinarily this spot becomes at that season a rendezvous for the poor and the wretched1 and a rallying point for all manner of abominable odours1 filth1 troublesome flies1 and intolerable heat1 despite which drawbacks the fishery is visited by thousands of boats1 and hundreds of thousands of men1 who flock hither with the alluring prospect of speedy and abundant wealth1 or have been attracted from all parts of the ,indian ,continent by the singularity of the spectacle4 ,suddenly1 as though evoked by the wand of a magician1 a regular town starts into existence1 of tents1 or even neat huts1 with bamboo and cabbage-tree palings1 roofed over with palm-leaves1 rice-straw1 or coarse thick woollen cloth2 booths for the sale of merchandise rise like an exhalation during the night to supply necessaries of all sorts to the converging multitudes from the interior1 as well as the fleets of visitors from seaward2 and last1 not least1 the divers themselves4 ,swindlers and mountebanks throng hither1 adroit thieves creep stealthily about1 all ,indian customs and fashions are represented1 all castes jostle each other4 ,priests1 and the subordinate hangers-on of the various sects1 hurry about1 and jugglers and ,nautch girls vie with each other in amusing the noisy multitudes4 ,the result of numerous experiments has proved that no diving apparatus can replace the human machine1 the cost of which1 moreover1 is a fixed definite quantity1 viz41 the fourth part of the pearls brought up1 which is the diver's share4 ,in each boat1 or ,dhonie1 are ten divers1 each having an assistant4 ,before the divers proceed to descend1 a number of quaint ceremonies are gone through1 and incantations murmured1 as well in the boats as on shore1 by the so-called shark-charmers2 indeed1 the superstition of the divers1 who for the most part come from the ,coromandel coast1 is so great1 that not one of their number1 ,christian or idolator1 would continue in this employment without the countenance of the sorcerer2 and the ,government finds itself compelled to pay the impostors4#hf ,they levy a tribute of ten oysters upon each boat4 ,footnote #hf3 ,in #aheg1 the chief shark-charmer was a ,roman ,catholic6 ,accidents with sharks are of rare occurrence3 the noise of #ajjj divers on the water at once seeming to scare the animals4 ,moreover1 the dark colour of the skin of their bodies1 acts as a considerable protection to the divers1 so that there are numbers who blacken their legs1 in order still more to alarm the monster4#hg ,footnote #hg3 ,an encounter in the water between a shark and an expert swimmer1 armed only with a knife1 is not so unequal an affair as might at first be supposed4 ,the pearl fishers of the ,gulfs of ,panama and ,nicoya only use a short stick1 with which1 if the sharks get above them1 they stir up the mud1 under cover of which they swim along the bottom for a little distance1 and then shoot up to the surface4 ,of the equality in which a good swimmer armed with a knife feels himself in encountering a shark1 there are numerous instances4 ,many years ago1 when shipping was more plentiful in ,kingston ,harbour1 ,jamaica1 than at the present day1 vessels had occasionally to put up with somewhat awkward berths1 when they used regularly to foul their anchors1 whereupon it became necessary1 of course1 to send some one down to free the cable4 ,for this purpose1 negro divers were employed1 and one man attained a wide reputation from having himself1 unscathed1 slain in fair combat at different times1 no less than five sharks6 ,ultimately the sharks steered clear of any black man who had a knife suspended round his neck4 ,after these preliminaries1 the divers go down into the water1 each carrying a basket-shaped net1 in which to bring up the oysters1 when selected--a stone of from #aelbs4 to #belbs4 weight being fastened round the body1 so as more readily to enable him to sink to the bottom4 ,when at a depth of some #e or #f fathoms1 the diver unfastens the stone1 which is forthwith hauled up4 ,he now throws himself forward on his face1 and keeps himself as close as he can to the ground1 while he rapidly rakes up and collects together all that is within his reach1 so as to fill his landing net4 ,he crawls along in this manner during the minute of his submersion1 over a space of from #dj to #ej feet2 and so soon as he pulls the cord attached to his plaited basket-edge1 it is immediately hauled up1 and he himself speedily follows it to the surface4#hh ,footnote #hh3 ,the divers are mostly old men1 vigorous and healthy in appearance1 thus dispelling the general notion that deep-sea diving weakens the body and shortens life4 ,we were told of one diver1 employed during the year #ahef1 in the pearl fishery1 who was so stout and fat1 that in addition to the ordinary diver's stone1 he had to make fast a considerable weight to his body1 in order to sink himself in the water4 ,the utmost depth at which the diver can safely remain seems to be about #dj feet1 beyond which blood is apt to issue from the nose and ears4 ,they seldom remain above #ej or #fj seconds under water1 although cases occasionally occur in which the stay under water is protracted to #hj seconds4 ,the diving is carried on for #e or #f hours without intermission1 so that each of the ten divers can1 in the course of a day1 bring up from #ajjj to #djjj oysters4 ,by dint of good fortune1 and close packing1 about #aej oysters are brought up in each basket-net1 while occasionally an unprolific bed does not give more than five or ten oysters4 ,so soon as the oysters have been dragged to land1 they are sorted in shares1 of which one goes to the oyster fisher as his remuneration1 and the remainder are sold in lots of #ajjj each to the highest bidder4 ,now begins speculation4 ,chance presides here1 quite as capriciously as at a lottery or another game of hazard4 ,it often happens that a single oyster contains thirty or forty pearls1 of which some may be worth a sovereign on the spot2 but it more frequently occurs that several hundred oysters do not yield a single pearl4 ,the small1 valueless pearls1 called also seed pearls1 are burnt down1 and sold as pearl-lime to the wealthy ,malays1 by whom it is used as a luxurious addition to the betel and cabbage nuts1 as masticatories4 ,the ,ceylonese mix the lustreless pearls with other grains1 with which they feed the poultry1 in whose croops the pearls regain their former brilliancy after a few minutes' grinding4 ,the croop is then slit up1 and the glittering stones extracted1 white as the most beautiful pearl-muscular tissue4#hi ,footnote #hi3 ,this method of procedure1 which is adopted by the rest of the ,indian races1 and in which the lustreless pearls are swallowed by hens1 pigeons1 and ducks1 so as to be polished up1 after being subjected to the preliminary digestion of these birds1 has been proved to be anything but beneficial to the pearls as regards loss by attrition4 ,careful observation has established1 for example1 that four pearls1 weighing twelve grains1 have lost four grains by undergoing this process during twelve hours1 while eight others1 weighing thirty grains1 were reduced to twenty grains after a sojourn of two days in the gizzard of a duck4 ,the pearl oysters caught on the coast of ,ceylon are all of the same species 7,meleagrina ,margaritifera71 uniformly oval in shape1 and about #i-a_/b inches in circumference4 ,the number taken in ,ceylon annually must be numbered by millions4 ,in the year of our arrival to ,ceylon 7#aheh71 the pearl fishery yielded #bd1abj4 ,according to the last returns1 before us as we write1 there were in the year #ahei1 #aceb boats engaged during eighteen days in the pearl fishery1 the gross take of which amounted to #i1ecd1iea oysters1 sold for #dh1baf4 ,the divers' shares amounted together to #b1abf1gdi oysters4 ,the wide-spread popular delusion1 that the pearl in the oyster is but a produce of disease in the animal1 has long been refuted by scientific research1 and although the great ,german poet1 ,henry ,heine1 in his ,romanzero1 sings1 ,those world-famed pearls1 ,they are but the wan mucus ,of a sad oyster1 ,dimly sickening in the depth of the sea6 it is rather a poetic fancy than a scientific fact4 ,we have latterly been especially indebted to the ,german naturalist1 ,theodore von ,hessling1 for a very circumstantial and thoroughly exhaustive memoir on the natural history of the pearl oysters and their pearls1#ij in which the learned author seeks to establish that the enveloping matter of the germ of the pearl is identical with the covering of the animal1 and that in the process of growth two influences are at work1 an external and an internal4 ,the first is called into play by the property peculiar to the hinge system that unites the double shell1 of gaping wide open1 in consequence of which extraneous substances rush in with the current of water1 such as minute fragments of quartz1 molecules of plants1 c41 which1 being detained either circling in the cavity1 or eddying round the hinges1 are seized on in the course of their revolutions1 and entangled in the parenchyma of the various organs1 which is specially secreted from the mantle1 till it becomes enveloped by layers of solid shell4 ,on the other hand1 the internal development is closely allied to the conditions of deposition and subsequent growth of the shell-matter4 ,molecules1 either a single grain or congeries of grains1 varying from #i4ja to #j4je of a line 7#c_/d of an inch down to the #a_/bdjth of an inch71 enclosed in the epidermis of the shell1 constitute usually the nuclei of the pearls1 which1 to a certain extent1 may be considered as nothing but a portion of the epidermis not applied to the formation of shell4 ,the pearls also are simply independent concretions growing in the creature1 and consisting of the substance of the shell1 which are with difficulty discriminated from the various descriptions of growths which constitute the inner surface of the shell4 ,footnote #ij3 ,die ,perlen-,muschel1 und ihre ,perlen1 ,naturwissenschaftlich und ,geschichtlich mit ,bercksichtigung der ,perlen-gewsser ,bayerns1 beschrieben von ,theodor von ,hessling1 ,leipzig1 #ahei4 ,the great importance of the pearl as an article of luxury and commerce1 has naturally led to numerous attempts to manufacture them by artificial means1 in the course of which extraneous bodies have been introduced between the mouth and shell of the animal1 sometimes with1 sometimes without injury to it4 ,the ,chinese especially are adepts at placing certain small bodies1 specially prepared1 in the shells of the pearl oyster1 which1 after a short time1 becomes coated with mother-of-pearl1 or nacre4 ,this manufacture of artificial pearls is carried on on a large scale in the neighbourhood of ,hong-,chow-,foo4 ,during our stay at ,hong-,kong and ,shanghai respectively1 we ourselves saw several mussel-shells1 in which a mother-of-pearl covering had formed over small neatly carved figures1 mostly sitting figures of ,buddha1#ia the singular appearance of which would1 at the first glance tend to make the observer suspect that the pearl had been fastened to the mussel by some adhesive substance4 ,but we had so frequently an opportunity of satisfying ourselves by actually witnessing the entire process1 that we could no longer doubt that the carved figures are with the utmost care introduced into the animal1 and1 after remaining a few days in the water1 become attached to the mussel by a distinct membrane4 ,this1 their membrane1 afterwards becomes interpermeated by the calcareous matter1 till1 finally1 layers of mother-of-pearl are deposited all around the nucleus1 the whole formation corresponding with the chalk-like concretions occurring in other creatures4 ,footnote #ia3 ,the antiquity of this experiment is proved by the fact that the ,topographia of ,ischikiang speaks of a pearl1 which had been sent to the ,imperial ,palace at ,pekin1 #dij ,b4,c41 which resembled ,buddha1 and apparently must have been produced by this same method2 although likewise the priests of ,buddha1 at that early epoch1 might not have objected1 in the interests of their religion1 to make capital out of such a specimen of artistic skill4 ,besides the pearl-shells1 the northern shores of ,ceylon1 especially between the ,island of ,manaar and ,karativoe1 are especially rich in beds of a volute mussel 7,turbinella rapa1 or soluta gravis71 which are exported in great numbers to ,india1 where the ,hindoo women saw them into rings of all sizes1 to be worn as ornaments on the arms1 legs1 fingers and toes4 ,the chank-shell is likewise a chief instrument of the ,buddhists1 who1 amongst other devout customs1 blow three times a day on this sacred shell1 to summon believers to worship4#ib ,it is also used as a festive ornament of the ,indian temples1 as well as a donation to the dead1 which1 inspired by a religious feeling1 the survivors place in the grave alongside of the corpse of their illustrious departed4 ,footnote #ib3 ,according to the most ancient annals of the ,cingalese1 the chank-shell is sounded in one of the superior heavens of the demigods 7similar to the conk-blowing ,tritons of ,grecian mythology71 in honour of ,buddha1 as often as the latter wanders abroad on the earth4 ,the gems found on the island are distinguished1 less for their intrinsic value than for the great variety of precious stones which are present4 ,they are1 with few exceptions1 found to have been disengaged from the primitive rocks1 and washed into the alluvial soil1 especially in the outskirts of the mountainous districts1 where they are rolled along the beds of the streams together with other pebbles1 or are washed out of the alluvial deposits4 ,hitherto1 they have only been searched for for purposes of trade1 and then only in the most desultory and thriftless way1 no one having as yet examined the rocks themselves1 by the disintegration of which the valuable stones are disengaged4 ,there was1 indeed1 no detailed information as to the wealth in precious stones of the island1 until the researches of the ,english mineralogist1 ,dr4 ,gygax1 who has very lately published on this subject many interesting observations and remarks4 ,the locality in which precious stones are most abundant is1 so far as present experience goes1 the district of ,saffragam1 the capital of which in consequence takes the name of ,ratnapoora1 or ,anarhadnaporra1 the city of rubies4 ,they are also found at various other parts of the island2 in the plains on the ,west coast1 between ,adams' ,peak and the sea1 at ,nuwera ,ellia1 ,kandy1 ,matelle1 and ,ruanwelli1 near ,colombo1 as also in ,matura1 and the river courses on the eastern side1 towards the ancient ,mahagam4 ,the geologist of the ,expedition visited some mines of precious stones near ,ratnapoora4 ,these are situated on the ,kaluga-,sella1 a small tributary of the ,kalu-,gunga1 and lie1 some in the very bed of the river1 some on the steep bank4 ,they are about thirty feet deep1 but having been some time disused1 they are full of water4 ,the uppermost stratum of these pits or mines is a rich fertile yellow loam1 exactly resembling our diluvial loams4 ,this is succeeded1 according to the report of the proprietor of the mines1 by a slimy black clay1 and clayey sand1 beneath which again is a bituminous clay1 holding numerous organic remains1 such as leaves1 trunks of trees converted into a substance resembling lignite1 and not infrequently elephants' tusks and bones of animals2 thereafter sand1 and lastly a bank of rolled gravel1 forming a species of conglomerate with red1 yellow1 and occasionally blue clay--being1 in fact1 what is known as stone-gravel4 ,this bank of pebbles is the layer in which the precious stones occur1 and these are most commonly found between the larger masses of agglutinated matter1 that are always found especially to abound in gems1 whenever they are superposed upon what is called malave1 which appears to be a sort of greenish-coloured talc-like half-decomposed mica4 ,the most valuable stones that are obtained from these mines are rubies and sapphires4 ,in the ,kalu-,gunga1 also1 precious stones are occasionally washed down1 and as the geologist of the ,novara ,expedition was descending the river in a boat1 from ,ratnapoora to ,caltura1 he perceived at several places1 more particularly at the various rapids1 men standing in the water1 provided with flat pan-shaped baskets1 in which they sifted the sand and pebbles4 ,the gems found on the island are rubies1 sapphires topazes1 amethysts1 garnets1 cinnamon-stone1 and tourmaline4 ,on the other hand1 all the diamonds1 emeralds1 carnelians1 agates1 opals1 and turquoises1 which the natives offer for sale1 are imported from ,india4 ,one precious stone1 on which the ,cingalese set an exceedingly high value1 because they erroneously believe that it is peculiar to the island of ,ceylon1 whereas it is also found on the southern shores of ,hindostan1 is the ,cat's-eye1 a greenish transparent quartz1 which1 when polished in its natural shape1 or en cabochon1 exhibits in its interior a varying reflected light1 undoubtedly arising from the presence of fibres of asbestos1 and which1 in fact1 bears some resemblance to the eye of a cat4 ,the natives1 as a rule1 estimate the value and symmetry of this stone by the brilliancy and tenuity of the beam which it emits1 and the clear olive-coloured ground upon which it shines in relief4 ,a vast number of men give themselves up to the exciting but most uncertain occupation of searching for precious stones1 and barter what they have found1 chiefly to ,mahometan merchants1 for clothes and salt4 ,as1 however1 the natives themselves set a high value on jewels1 in consequence of their small bulk admitting of their being readily concealed and easily carried about1 the finer descriptions are readily disposed of at a good price1 and1 singular to say1 it has frequently happened1 as we ourselves found by personal experience1 that precious stones are dearer in ,colombo and ,galle than in the ,european markets6 ,the explanation of this paradox is probably that the steady copious influx into the ,london and ,paris markets of precious stones from all parts of the earth where jewels are found1 admits of by no means such excessive fluctuations in value as at ,ceylon1 where the supply actually on hand is so varying1 and where the value of the article almost always depends upon the rank and wealth of the ,indian purchaser4 ,the foreign traveller very often cannot restrain a feeling of surprise at seeing the fingers of the stately ,mahometan jewellers adorned with rings of costly gems1 which are only offered for sale to himself at an exorbitant sum4 ,the value of the precious stones of all sorts found in ,ceylon in the course of a year is estimated by ,sir ,emerson ,tennent at about #aj1jjj1 one-fourth1 at least1 of the entire quantity finding a market on the island1 a full half being sent to the jewel-polishers of ,india1 so that only the remaining fourth is exported to ,europe4 ,the scant time allotted to us at ,colombo was zealously occupied in seeing the utmost that we could of the many interesting objects that invited attention4 ,among others1 we visited one of the largest industrial enterprises in ,ceylon1 known as ,hultsdorf ,mill1 a cocoa-nut-oil factory1 the proprietorship consisting in shares1 of which the largest holder is ,david ,wilson1 ,esq41 the ,austrian ,consular ,agent4 ,here are carried on all the various processes connected with the manufacture1 the preparation of the oil-cake from the cocoa-nut1 the expressure of the oil1 c41 which are carried on by apparatus1 partly sent out from ,england1 partly put up in this country1 all set in motion by steam-engines4 ,the task assigned in these factories to the natives1 of whom above a thousand are employed in the various departments1 is1 nevertheless1 not the less important and significant1 that1 while machinery is used in those processes where it is necessary to use an agency far transcending the powers of mere human labour1 all collateral products1 such as soap1 candles1 perfumery1 as also the implements and tools required for the works1 and even the barrels and chests required for the transport of the manufactures1 are prepared and used by handicraft labour4 ,to the thoughtful visitor it is a scene of no ordinary interest to behold several hundreds of ,cingalese1 ,hindoos1 and ,mozambique negroes1 all thoroughly conversant with the management of the most magnificent invention of the nineteenth century4 ,here are a number of artisans employed at the hydraulic presses and iron turning-lathes2 in another apartment the various parts of the different machines are being constructed or put together1 which regulate the pressure of the steam supplied to the apparatus when in activity2 in a third1 persons are busy examining and testing the resulting products with scrupulous precision4 ,with all its development1 ,european industry has1 in this quarter1 exercised but an obscure influence2 and1 thus far1 has been productive of but small results as a civilizing element among this population1 which has hitherto shown itself so little disposed to accept the ,christian form of civilization4 ,in the large warehouse belonging to ,mr4 ,wilson1 we also saw huge heaps of ,kauris1 or ,cowries1 7cypra moneta71 the renowned1 or rather ill-reputed1 species of mussel1 which comes from the ,maldive ,islands1 and plays so important a part in the commerce with the coast of ,malabar and the interior of ,africa2 while here1 it constitutes the sole medium of exchange1 which is used by way of barter for almost all sorts of agricultural produce1 chiefly among the blacks4#ic ,these mussels are sent from ,ceylon to ,london1 and thence back to the ,eastern ,coast of ,africa1 and thus indirectly uphold the slave-trade1 as1 the native merchants of that region barter these shells1 so greatly sought after by all ,african tribes1 as ornament1 for negroes and negresses1 who are in turn sold to the speculators in human flesh4 ,a ton of these shells1 of which the smaller description are most in request1 and therefore the most valuable1 costs in ,ceylon about #gj to #ge4 ,footnote #ic3 ,the ,malay name for this mussel is beya1 implying duty1 toll1 tax1 thus leaving it open to conjecture that that nation1 in their commerce with the ,asiatic and ,african continents1 have for untold ages employed the same principles of currency and expressions of value as ourselves4 ,to the kindness and active interest in our objects of ,mr4 ,wilson1 in whose agreeable villa at ,mootwall--the plan and method of construction of which reminded us of the beautiful planters' houses on the sugar estates of ,louisiana--we spent the last night of our stay at ,colombo1 we are also indebted for a copy1 with which he presented us1 of the most ancient annals of ,ceylon1 inscribed with an iron graver upon ,talipot palm-leaves in the highly-esteemed ,pali language1 and preserved between richly-carved boards of the costly wood of the ,kalamander tree 7,diospyrus ,hirsuta74 ,this carefully-preserved ,,ms4 includes1 among others1 the celebrated epic poem ,mahawanso1 7an abbreviation ,mahantaman ,wanso1 ,genealogy of mighty men17 which recites under #ajj heads1 and in #iage verses1 the most important events connected with the interior constitution and history of the island1 as also of all the battles fought by the inhabitants in foreign countries from ,b4,c4 #edc to the year #ageh1 ,a4,d4 ,of these1 the most renowned historic relics of the ,cingalese1 #ch chapters1 of #bfb pages #dto1 were translated into ,english by ,george ,tumour1 ,esq41 an eminent ,pali scholar1 and printed at ,ceylon1 in the year #ahcg4 ,unfortunately1 his earnest desire to publish the rest of this highly-interesting work was destined not to be gratified4 ,the grave closed over him ere he could realize his wish4 ,at present1 however1 there is a prospect of the translation of the ,mahawanso being completed by ,mr4 ,james de ,alwis1 a worthy follower in the footsteps of ,mr4 ,turnour1 chiefly through the munificence of ,government and of the ,scientific ,institutes1 which were invoked to supply the requisite assistance for the prosecution of an undertaking likely to prove so unremunerative4 ,in addition to the copy of the ,mahawanso1 we also procured a number of other important ,cingalese ,,mss4 on ,talipot palms1 which were made use of by ,tumour1 partly in his translation of the ,mahawanso1 partly in his other works upon ,ceylon1 and which embrace numerous valuable historical details not comprised in the ,mahawanso4 ,this complete collection of the most antique annals of the ,island of ,ceylon1 in the purchase of which we were kindly favoured with the advice and assistance of ,mr4 ,wilson at ,colombo1 together with a variety of other ,cingalese ,,mss4 on palm leaves1 collected at a subsequent date1 now form part of the collection of valuable books in the ,imperial ,royal ,library at ,vienna4 ,besides ,mr4 ,wilson1 our very best thanks are due to the ,colonial ,secretary1 ,sir ,c4 ,j4 ,mc,carthy1 who had the kindness to provide several of the members of the ,novara ,expedition with the requisite letters of introduction to the authorities in the interior of the ,island3 also to ,mr4 ,john ,selby1 the very obliging proprietor of the ,examiner2 to ,dr4 ,kelaart1 physician and naturalist2 to ,charles ,p4 ,layard1 ,esq41 the ,government ,agent for the ,western ,provinces2 and to ,captain ,gosset1 ,surveyor-,general1 for their numerous attentions4 ,the last-mentioned gentleman very kindly provided us with a pair of level-tubes which we urgently needed for one of our levelling instruments1 and which1 in this quarter of the globe1 were more rare and difficult to be met with than pearls or precious stones4 ,our return from ,colombo to ,galle1 was not less marked by misadventures than our journey thither4 ,as far as ,caltura1 where our amiable ,father ,miliani was in waiting for us with his neat single-horse equipage1 to convey us to the beautiful parsonage of ,st4 ,sebastian ,makn1 all went tolerably smoothly with us4 ,we arrived1 as had been concerted1 to breakfast with this hospitable shepherd of souls4 ,on our way to the parsonage1 we noticed that great respect was paid to the worthy ,father1 by such of the ,cingalese as met us4 ,their usual salutation was to bend themselves to the earth1 veiling their eyes at the same time1 and bending forward the outstretched head as though to implore a blessing4 ,father ,miliani1 who held the reins in his left hand1 while his right hand flourished a long heavy whip1 slightly inclined his body upon the cabriolet1 and so dismissed in peace the poor folk that besought his benediction4 ,when we had now got pretty near the parsonage1 we were suddenly brought to a halt by a couple of natives1 of whom one implored the spiritual ministration of the ,father for his wife1 then lying almost in articulo mortis1 while the other had brought with him1 from the sacristy of ,makn1 the ,communion-plate required for the purpose4 ,the priest1 to whom this interruption seemed to come as a matter of course1 stopped1 apologized for the unexpected delay1 threw the reins to one of the party1 sprang from the waggon1 and disappeared in the gloom of the forest4 ,it was not for long1 as it proved2 for the stately1 handsome figure of the priest of ,makn presently appeared between the cocoa-palms4 ,he had found the woman much less dangerously ill than he had been led to expect by the report of the husband1 the native converts to ,christianity being very much given to requesting the administration of the rites of the ,church1 upon being attacked by the slightest indisposition1 because they anticipate much more benefit from spiritual treatment than from the medicines of their body-curers4 ,and now we proceeded on our way to the parsonage at a smart gallop1 which1 however1 did not prevent a zealous1 much-believing ,cingalese from keeping up with the mettled horse1 stride for stride1 for the entire distance1 keeping close to the waggon as he ran alongside4 ,we were not then aware1 indeed1 whether this violent bodily exercise was undertaken as a matter of choice or as a penance1 but it seemed to us1 in any case1 an act far less meritorious than prejudicial to health4 ,in ,st4 ,sebastian de ,makn1 the entire community were awaiting our arrival1 and escorted us by a romantic hill1 and through a delicious palm-forest1 to the priest's abode4 ,here we found the porch of the house gaily adorned1 and metamorphosed with tropical fruits and flowers into a smiling fragrant bower1 with the feathery leaf of the cocoa-palm cut into thin strips4 ,the inventive ingenuity of the ,cingalese had endeavoured to represent the various birds found in tropical forests1 which were suspended in ornamental baskets of green leaves among the festoons4 ,over the entrance to this bower1 improvised out of materials supplied by the primeval forest1 was placed a picture painted by the good ,father himself1 representing a large anchor1 with the superscription in ,italian ,la speranza non confunde6 7,hope never disappoints67 ,this was evidently a delicate allusion of our kind-souled entertainer to the hope which he had expressed during our previous visit1 that he should see us on our return from ,colombo1 which had not been disappointed4 ,in the interior of the arbour appeared an elegantly appointed table1 that seemed ready to give way under the weight of good things spread upon it1 around which were placed a number of arm-chairs1 worked in tapestry1 while the plastered floor was strewed with the glistening green leaves of the ,ficus religiosa4 ,as soon as we had taken our seats1 the members of the community1 consisting of more than a hundred tawny1 half-naked ,cingalese 7principally men and children71 arranged themselves in a circle1 and some half-dozen dancers began to execute a very ordinary-looking dance to the sound of a drum4 ,the entire figure consisted in their simply approaching each other from opposite sides1 during which they struck the hollow-sounding instrument pretty sharply1 holding it in their hand the while1 after which they drew away from each other1 and wound up by dancing round in a circle in couples4 ,a boy of eight1 in glittering costume1 next performed a dance1 in which he was accompanied by a grown-up ,cingalese who sung1 occasionally accompanied by drum and fife4 ,frequently we enquired what was the meaning of the vocal accompaniment to the dance1 but could get no information upon the subject4 ,but we have always had occasion to remark among the various primitive races1 that they are rarely able to give any connected account of the history of their dances or even their songs1 but simply go through a set of mechanical figures which they have learned1 or rehearse a set of words by rote1 without being able to assign any signification to either4 ,over and over again have we put the question1 only to receive the same stereotyped answer from ,hindoos1 ,negroes1 ,chinese1 ,malays1 and ,polynesians1 that they could tell us nothing more than that these songs and dances took their origin in the olden times4 ,breakfast was served in the arbour by ,cingalese boys4 ,as often as the hospitable ,father turned to apologize for his scanty means1 which prevented him from ministering to our entertainment as he could wish1 some new dish would be forthcoming1 or some fresh kind of wine would be produced1 till one knew not which most to admire1 the variety of the entertainment1 or its cost in preparation4 ,on inquiring of ,father ,miliani1 in the course of conversation1 whether he had any acquaintance with the plants to which the natives ascribe healing properties1 he sent for a phial containing an oily substance1 which2 according to the ,cingalese herbalists1 is composed of #eg different roots and as many flowers1 and has already been wonderfully efficacious in cases of persons bitten by poisonous serpents4 ,it is called by the natives1 ,visanili-,katail 7oil against poison72 and the priest of ,makn remarked to us1 he had himself had an opportunity of satisfying himself as to the marvellous curative qualities of this vegetable substance1 in the case of persons who had been bitten by the most venomous snake in the whole island1 the ,cobra di ,capello1 who had entirely recovered by the copious use of this antidote4 ,the application is very simple4 ,the mouth is rinsed out with it1 and the patient further takes from #ae to #bj drops of the oil internally4 ,unfortunately1 we were not able to inquire more particularly as to the ingredients from which the ,visanili-,katail is compounded1 of which we eventually got a small quantity to carry away with us1 after much entreaty2 but by way of compensation1 ,father ,miliani was able to give us much valuable information as to the manners1 customs1 and traditions of his flock4 ,he regretted1 however1 that they were all of a highly impassioned strain1 and that they constantly passed from one extreme to the other4 ,the following trait1 which was pointed out to us by the ,father in the course of conversation1 may serve to indicate the modes of thought and observation of the natives4 ,when the ,cingalese perceived how eagerly and with what warmth of friendship the ,father received us1 they inquired of him whether he had been previously an acquaintance of ours1 as they were unable to conceive the existence of such hearty good-will between persons who were utter strangers to each other4 ,the priest1 readily appreciating the results which must flow from the reply he should give1 in confirming the devout souls of his children1 replied that the reputation of his name had long since penetrated to us1 and we were unwilling to ride by without turning aside to salute him1 to which he had readily expressed his assent1 and had also long since been apprized of the important mission of the ,austrian ship of war1 whose commander was termed by the natives1 with the bombast of their native tongue1 ,king of the ,sea4 ,at our departure1 the kind ,father presented us with several interesting articles1 as souvenirs of ,makn1 while we1 on our part1 left with him a donation in money to defray the expenses of erecting his church4 ,father ,miliani1 the band of musicians1 consisting of ten or twelve wild-looking fellows1 with all manner of barbarous musical instruments1 of which they made not less barbarous use1 together with a laughing1 yelling1 gesticulating crowd of half-naked ,cingalese1 with long raven locks floating over their shoulders1 accompanied us to our travelling chariot4 ,here we took leave of the hospitable ,father1 the vehicle set out on its route1 and the whole brown retinue at once dispersed4 ,hardly had we left the ,mission of ,st4 ,sebastian ,makn behind us1 ere our troubles began afresh4 ,at almost the very first station we came to1 we had to hire a horse from a resident at an exorbitant rate--the animal belonging to the station1 and which had been engaged for us1 being utterly useless4 ,this gave occasion for fresh delays4 ,the party letting the horses was what is called a native doctor1 who assumed the title of native vaccinator1 and bitterly complained1 that for his attendance four days in every week1 as required by the law1 for the purpose of inoculation1 he only received from ,government a monthly salary of #b #es4 sterling4 ,whatever deficiency existed in his salary1 he seemed determined to make up for in the hire of his horse1 which he charged for at the rate of ten shillings for six miles6 ,on the cash being forthcoming1 our native vaccinator did not disdain himself to take the reins1 and1 with his own hands1 apply the whip to his mare between the shafts of our vehicle4 ,but this mark of distinction was destined1 ere long1 to cost us dear4 ,hardly had we proceeded a couple of miles under his care1 when the hind-wheels of the vehicle sunk into a rut1 whence our sculapian steed lacked the strength to extricate us4 ,to complete the sum of our misfortunes1 at the very moment we were using our utmost endeavours to replace the waggon on the regular track1 it came on to rain heavily1 and we were1 in a twinkling1 wet to the skin4 ,some thirty young ,cingalese1 in the full dress of ,adam before the ,fall1 who were standing open-mouthed round the waggon1 could only be roused by threats from their passive attitude2 and when1 finally1 they lent a hand to assist1 they1 in their ill-timed zeal1 came near oversetting the waggon into the ditch on the opposite side4 ,next1 we exchanged this stubborn brute for one that was blind4 ,for a brief space we hoped the latter might probably be the more easily driven in consequence of his not seeing what was going on around him2 but these anticipations were speedily dispelled1 and in a rather unpleasant manner4 ,the short distance that now separated us from our destination seemed as though it would never have an end2 and1 in a word1 it was already verging on midnight ere we reached ,galle1 where we had been expected to dinner five hours before1 by our hospitable friend1 the ,consul for ,hamburg4 ,some of the invited guests had already left this agreeable house1 while others were still seated at the whist-table1 as1 wearied and exhausted1 we entered the drawing-room4 ,the circumstances that had so seriously delayed our arrival were explained by way of apology1 and proved the subject of some goodnatured quizzing on our misfortunes by the guests present2 and in such agreeable society1 and over a sumptuous supper1 we speedily forgot the trifling annoyances of our latest experiences4 ,in the course of a desultory agreeable conversation about the natural beauties of the island1 many were the plans of more distant excursions which we projected this evening--which1 however1 upon more mature consideration1 all proved impracticable1 owing to the scanty time at our disposal4 ,thus we found ourselves1 much against our wishes1 compelled to forego a visit to ,kandy1 and its beautiful environs1 in which is situated the renowned temple that enshrines the tooth of ,buddha1 the occupation of which by the ,english was1 in the eyes of the ,cingalese1 the most manifest indication of their being the legitimate conquerors of the kingdom4#id ,neither were we able to take part in an elephant hunt1 although these animals are found in the island in such quantities1 that it is related1 with every appearance of accuracy1 of a single elephant hunter1 the late ,major ,rodgers1 who was struck dead by a flash of lightning a few years since in the midst of the forest1 that he had1 in the course of his life of active exercise1 laid low fifteen hundred elephants with his own hand6 ,but permission was granted by the commander of the ,expedition to the geologist and one of the zoologists to remain in ,ceylon1 and rejoin the frigate at ,madras by the steamer which runs fortnightly1 so as to enable them to ascend the world-famous ,adam's ,peak1 #gjjj feet high1 one of the loftiest peaks in ,ceylon1 where1 according to tradition1 the founder of the ,buddhist doctrine1 when last he visited the earth1 in answer to the supplications of a priest1 left behind the print of his footstep 7,sri-pada71 as a visible sign of his presence4 ,footnote #id3 ,the legend relating to these relics1 about which so many wars were waged1 goes back as far as the third century of the ,christian era1 when ,mahasana1 a true believer1 having become ,king of ,ceylon1 purchased these teeth for numerous valuable presents1 of one of his kindred1 a ,calinga king in ,bengal1 who sent them over by his princes4 ,the tooth ,dahata ,wahansa immediately achieved a miracle--it illumined the entire island1 and supplanted all heretical teaching4 ,it was forthwith enveloped in a hundred cloths1 and a temple erected to enshrine it1 since which it has been regarded as the ,palladium of ,ceylon4 ,when1 in #aefj1 this tooth was transferred to the temple at ,manaar by the ,portuguese under ,constantin de ,braganza1 the king offered the ,portuguese bigots #fjj1jjj pieces of gold by way of ransom4 ,braganza judged it more advisable to destroy the tooth4 ,but he little knew the adroitness and subtlety of the ,buddhist priesthood4 ,the very next morning the tooth1 that had been supposed to be destroyed was marvellously found in a ,lotos leaf in the temple1 where it had been deposited by ,buddha himself6 ,we cite1 in the following extract1 the most prominent features of this venture1 as supplied by the two members of the ,expedition who undertook it1 so as to complete the description of the ,novara's visit to ,ceylon3-- ,on #acth ,january1 #aheh1 we proceeded from ,colombo to ,ratnapoora1 en route1 to visit ,adam's ,peak1 a tolerably long and tedious journey4 ,on the margin of a river we encountered an elephant1 who was engaged in assisting the labourers on the public roads in that vicinity4 ,while our car and the baggage were being embarked here1 and again put in order1 this animal went through a number of tricks1 such as swaying to and fro1 lying down1 raising his trunk1 and trumpeting1 the latter of which1 at a sign from his driver1 he did with a vengeance1 and for so doing was rewarded with a few plantains4 ,these exercises seem to constitute the first steps in taming1 as they were gone through in a similar manner by all the elephants we afterwards saw1 whether employed like this one in task-work1 or maintained for show1 or made use of in the ,temple service4 ,at mid-day we reached ,ratnapoora1 and as we were anxious to shorten as much as possible our next day's journey1 we decided on pushing forward in the course of the afternoon1 as far as the little village of ,gilli-,mali1 seven miles further on4 ,we had been provided by ,c4 ,w4 ,layard1 ,esq41 the ,government ,agent in ,colombo1 with letters of introduction to his deputy1 ,mr4 ,mooyart1 at ,ratnapoora1 who1 however1 we unfortunately found was absent from home4 ,next day1 however1 we had unmistakable evidence that our letters had1 very shortly after our departure1 reached the hands they were intended for1 by a variety of precautions which the hospitable gentleman must have at once arranged with a view to our greater comfort4 ,while yet on the second-half of our road to ,gilli-,mali1 night overtook us1 and we prosecuted our march by torch-light through the dense jungle4 ,our guides and porters had shown some reluctance to enter this jungle1 partly on account of the swarms of land-leeches 7litchies1 as they are termed here1 doubtless by a corruption of the ,english name71 which are especially active during the night1 partly from other causes of anxiety4 ,accordingly1 they kept reciting ,cingalese ditties1 alternated with shrill yells1 or shouted1 so as to be heard at a distance2 whether to drive away evil spirits1 or to frighten the chetah or leopard1 we could not ascertain4 ,no long time elapsed ere we ourselves began to perceive traces of having been victimized by that most uncomfortable of guests1 the land-leech4 ,the naked ,hindoos were incessantly occupied with pulling off these painful blood-suckers1 and we had to call a halt from time to time1 in order to loosen and carefully fling them away1 as they had succeeded in reaching the skin1 through the trousers immediately above the boot4 ,they are found up to an elevation of #djjj feet above the sea on the mountains1 chiefly in damp or wet localities1 and are most active during the evening and night in the selection of a victim4 ,at ,gilli-,mali1 we fell in with ,mr4 ,braybrooke1 an ,english engineer1 who most hospitably invited us to his bungalow1 and with whom we conversed upon topics relating to ,ceylon1 till far into the night4 ,next day we had to ascend the ,peak itself2 which is in so far a difficult undertaking on the side from which we approached it1 that one has gained no vantage-ground at ,gilli-,malli1 our last night's resting-place1 towards reaching the summit1 so that one sees it in its entire colossal height of above #gjjj feet directly in front2 whereas1 in ascending from ,kandy1 one has already1 at ,neuwera ,ellia1 attained an elevation of #djjj feet1 which can be performed in a carriage4 ,we set out at #g ,a4,m41 and after an hour-and-a-half's march1 gained the last village1 ,balahab-a-,dullu1 in the ,buddhist temple of which is kept a flat metal dish1 adorned with silver rosettes1 with which the imprint of the holy footstep is covered over at the season of the annual pilgrimage4 ,on the table1 before a colossal figure of ,buddha1 were strewn1 as usual1 a quantity of flowers presented by the faithful2 these were the flower-shrubs of the ,areca palm1 ,hibiscus1 ,alamanda1 ,tagetes2 also1 close to the wooden statue1 are placed several small figures of silver or wood1 #c or #d inches long4 ,the priest also showed us a magnificent manuscript of at least #ajjj palm leaves1 closely and beautifully engraved on both sides with ,cingalese characters1 which belonged to the temple1 and was guarded with great care4 ,at a solitary house on the road1 we left our guides and porters to discuss their modest repast1 which1 in consequence of the strict ordinances of the ,buddhist faith1 consists of vegetable substances only4 ,reclining on a mat spread on the ground1 each took a piece of green plantain leaf1 scattered upon it a little rice which they had just brought with them1 and some chili 7red ,spanish pepper71 and thence conveyed their simple food to their mouth with the hand4 ,this frugal meal was speedily concluded1 and we once more pushed forward4 ,from this point we had the dense covert of the high forest trees1 the lofty foliage of which afforded a most agreeable shade1 and kept us comparatively cool4 ,the path1 which consists simply of ravines1 formed by the rush of torrents during the rainy season1 is so steep that it seems like one uninterrupted flight of stairs1 the steps of which seem partly constructed by ,nature1 partly by the hand of man4 ,frequently they are artistically chiselled in the solid rock2 at one stupendous precipice a ,cingalese monarch has had four flights1 of #bej steps in all1 hewn out of the living rock4 ,here and there1 also1 ladders have been contrived1 the rounds of which are composed of pieces of bamboo bound together1 by which one clambers up4 ,the whole route bears marks of being much used1 and is considerably worn1 the stones being rubbed quite smooth4 ,under the damp shade of the forest are found a vast quantity of the most beautiful ferns and ,lycopodium 7,club-moss2 or ,wolf's-claw1 as it is called in ,sweden1 whence the ,linnan name72 from the delicate beauty of the ,jungermania 7,star-tip71 to the tree-like fern1 ,filius ,phyllophisidos1 which vies with the giants of the forest4 ,the more deeply shaded spots are adorned here with beautiful balsams1 a genus of plants which1 besides being unusually luxuriant and beautiful in this district1 exhibits certain peculiarities of form not usually met with4 ,at one place1 called ,nihilabellagalla1 there was pointed out to us1 at a few paces to the side of the road1 near a rugged projecting rock with a steep declivity in front1 a narrow valley which seemed to be closed in by perpendicular walls of rock on the opposite side4 ,this cul de sac1 we were informed1 was a favourite resort of numerous wild elephants4 ,a shot fired at this point1 with the gun directed towards the rocks opposite1 returned a thundering echo4 ,by #d ,p4,m4 the last halt1 or resting-place1 was reached1 above which the singular-looking cone towers sheer overhead1 some #ejj or #fjj feet high4 ,the vapours which1 during the entire day1 had been playing about the summit1 from time to time lifted like a veil1 as though to indulge us with an opportunity of beholding this sublime mountain-peak under the magical effect of twilight4 ,our native retinue1 which had gathered fresh accessions of strength at every place we passed1 and now consisted of from #bd to #cj persons1 showed no inclination to proceed farther1 but appeared desirous of passing the night at the last halting-place1 which was nothing but a sort of hovel4 ,it was only by a resolute expression of our determination to reach the summit the same evening that they gave in4 ,their reluctance arose from an idea that no one could with impunity pass the night on the highest point of the mountain--which1 indeed1 is natural enough1 since the sharp night-air at such an elevation may well be prejudicial to the health of those who are not sufficiently protected against its attacks4 ,the last portion of the ascent is so steep1 and so difficult1 that all superfluous baggage was left behind1 and we took with us only what was absolutely indispensable4 ,thus far we had seen occasional traces of elephants1 sometimes so fresh1 that they could not have been more than an hour old4 ,according to a report of ,major ,skinner1 the unmistakable marks of one of these animals was remarked in the year #ahdj quite close to the rock which bears the sacred footprint6 ,at the steepest points1 iron ladders have been made fast1 by which the visitor has to scramble up4 ,there were1 also1 innumerable chains fastened to the rock1 of every description and variety of link1 which swung to and fro by dozens on either hand1 some eaten away with age and rust1 some forged quite lately1 it being considered a meritorious work to provide such as a protection against the occurrence of accidents4 ,by #f ,p4,m41 we at last reached the summit1 and were rewarded with a panoramic view of indescribable magnificence4 ,the mists were almost entirely dispersed1 and in the clear1 calm1 evening light1 the eye wandered at pleasure over the vast1 almost limitless1 panorama at our feet1 as far as the sea1 barely visible in the grey distance4 ,bounding our view from north-west to east1 the mountain ranges rose by three distinct terraces of hills1 each behind the other1 and in regular gradations1 till they culminated in the highest peak on the island1 the ,pedro-talla-galla1 which overtops ,adam's peak by nearly #ajjj feet1#ie but presents no pre-eminent peak1 similar to that on which we now stood4 ,the remainder of the horizon was filled with low mountains1 which gradually became more and more flat as they approached the coast4 ,the followers of three religions1--,buddhists1 ,brahmins1 and ,mahometans1 stand face to face with each other on this space of barely a few steps1 in order to bow before these visible emblems1 in sincere devotion to the invisible ,deity4 ,the highest surface1 which is nearly level1 is of an irregular oval form1 and is about #fj or #gj feet in length1 by from #cf to #dj feet in breadth1 and is inclosed within a wall #e feet in height1 with two entrances on the west and south1 while the north-east corner is shut out by an artificially rounded rock1 easily surmounted1 however1 by any one who ascends it4 ,in the middle of this enclosure stands a block of rock some #aj or #aa feet high1 which1 on the extreme top1 has a depression1 the divine ,sri-pada1 or ,holy ,footstep4 ,the adoration consists chiefly of offerings of flowers which are brought up hither1 and presented with innumerable genuflections1 invocations1 and exclamations of ,sadoo1 which corresponds to the ,christian ,amen4 ,the impressed foot-print is ascribed by the ,buddhists to the last incarnation of ,buddha1 the gentle hermit ,gautama2 while it is regarded by the ,brahmins as the footstep of ,siva1 and by the ,mahometans as that of ,adam1 as being the spot on which the progenitor of the human race stood so long1 doing penance after his expulsion from ,paradise1 until the ,almighty pardoned him4 ,footnote #ie3 ,the precise relative elevations of the two mountains are1 ,pedro-talla-galla #hbhj feet1 ,adam's ,peak #gdbj feet4 ,two other peaks of the main range are also higher than ,adam's ,peak1 viz4 ,totapella #ggbj feet1 and ,kirrigal-potta #ghaj feet1 while the plains1 or table-lands1 of ,welinani and ,neuwera ,ellia are1 respectively1 no less than #fiij feet and #fbaj feet above the level of the sea4 ,this depression1 in which only the most unbridled imagination can see any resemblance to the human foot1 is about #e feet in length by #b-a_/b in breadth1 and is set1 as it were1 in a level stratum of mortar1 several inches in height1 by six in breadth1 shaped to resemble the outline of the human foot4 ,at its anterior extremity1 it presents a straight line1 on which the five toes are artificially formed by several tolerably thick1 narrow crevices1 filled with mortar1 and about #h or #i inches in length1 which jut inwards1 the great toe being on the right or east side1 and thus indicating that it is a representation of the left foot4 ,at the heel end the setting of mortar is somewhat narrowed and rounded off4 ,over the whole affair a wooden temple with balustrades open on all sides1 has been erected1 which is fastened by iron chains to the rock1 and to beams of rhododendron fastened on the ,n4,w4 side1 outside the wall1 to prevent its being swept away by the storms which1 on this lofty1 exposed peak1 occasionally rage with great vehemence4 ,these cables1 as also several of the poles by which the temple was supported1 were thickly hung with carved figures of ,buddha enveloped in linen cloth1 which1 originally the votive offerings of pilgrims1 and bleached by long exposure1 fluttered in the breeze4 ,on the front of the temple is erected a penthouse roof1 shading a bench beneath1 on which several of our porters1 who regarded our impious presence1 and still more impious admeasurements of the holy footprint1 with a horror which they flattered themselves was unobserved1 deposited their offerings of flowers1 and humbly bent the knee4 ,on the west side1 under two small distinct roofs1 were two bells1 and quite apart1 on the rock itself1 and somewhat in the background1 a smaller temple4 ,between the block of rock and the inner half of the enclosure1 a small house has been erected1 #ab feet long by #f feet broad1 which is used as a shelter at night by the priests who are on duty during the pilgrimage season1#if in which we too took up our quarters4 ,suddenly1 from the depths below there arose1 through the unbroken silence of the night1 a confused murmur1 in which the sounds of human voices were plainly recognizable4 ,the singularity of such a phenomenon produced a certain degree of excitement among our superstitious spectre-dreading followers1 inasmuch as it had never happened that strangers undertook the ascent of the peak at night1 seeing it gives trouble enough to reach the summit by daylight4 ,by degrees we perceived a number of torches borne by natives1 who1 with loud and long-continued cheers1 set about slowly ascending the ladders4 ,to the inquiries of our followers they made no reply2 and we had1 in a word1 to wait a considerable interval1 until1 indeed1 the leading torch-bearer had reached the summit1 ere we were enlightened as to the object of this mysterious nocturnal visit4 ,how great1 and let us add1 agreeable was our surprise at finding ourselves suddenly surrounded by a choice array of wines1 with food of various sorts1 which the overflowing hospitality of ,mr4 ,mooyart had dispatched after us to the summit of ,adam's ,peak1 together with his card1 the whole being conveyed in huge baskets by the supposed spectres6 ,a cheerful fire speedily blazed up1 at which our tea and provisions were cooked1 and1 as may well be supposed1 while1 enjoying our delicate fare1 we thankfully toasted the kind and thoughtful donor4 ,footnote #if3 ,the dry season1 occurring in the south-west side of the island from ,january to ,april1 is likewise the chief season of pilgrimage1 at the end of which the entire amount of the offerings1 annually averaging from #bej to #cjj sterling1 is handed over to the ,high-,priest of ,buddha4 ,deep silence once more fell on all around1 no cry of any wild beast reached us at this elevation1 no hum of insect broke upon the awful stillness4 ,our coolies lay cowering together around the drooping blaze1 seeking some shelter against the night air4 ,one division stowed themselves away in a second sleeping-house for priests1 which had been run up some twenty paces distant1 in which we also were in the end fain to seek shelter from the ever-increasing keenness of the air1 the temperature of which fell to #ed4e ,fahr41 where1 with our wrappers drawn close around us1 and stretched at full length on the bare rock1 we awaited the approach of morning4 ,the first faint glimmer of dawn invited us once more to the open air1 in order to contemplate the wonderful aspect of ,nature at this elevation4 ,we had1 after leaving ,ratnapoora1 taken barometrical and thermometrical observations1 with the view of determining the elevation at nine different stations1 which had been1 wherever practicable1 selected in such manner1 that by means of them the various limits of certain classes of vegetation were indicated1 which in many instances are marked out with extraordinary distinctness upon the perpendicular side of the peak4 ,these series of observations1 which were at the same time supplemented by investigations as to the temperature of the soil and of various springs1 will be compared with the results of previous scientific visitors to the summit of ,adam's ,peak1 and published in another form4 ,the geology of the isolated pinnacle of ,adam's ,peak1 so far as the dense covering of primeval forests permitted us to observe1 is uncommonly simple and uniform4 ,the chief directions of the lofty chain of mountains in ,southern ,ceylon1 separated from each other by level plateau-like depressions1 is from ,s4,s4,e4 to ,n4,n4,w41 corresponding likewise with the chief directions of the strata of gneiss1 of which these mountains are composed4 ,the gneiss is uniformly of a species not often met with1 studded with garnets1 and between its strata are inserted single beds of hornblende-gneiss and splinters of pure hornblende1 as also granulite-gneiss and pure granulite4 ,the steep1 final cone of the rock consists of a granulitic gneiss of varying texture from coarse to fine1 and abounding in garnets4 ,everywhere1 even up to the highest summit1 the gneiss is decomposed on the surface into laterit-like products4 ,the huge blocks of brown ironstone1 however1 which are found near the summit1 in the hollow path by which it is customary to ascend1 owe their origin to the decomposition of the hornblende4 ,after these interesting observations1 admeasurements1 and investigations1 made at the summit of the most remarkable peak in the world1 had been brought to a conclusion1 we set out on our return to ,gilli-,mali1 which we reached late at night4 ,here we found1 at the abode of our hospitable entertainer1 ,mr4 ,braybrooke1 a fresh guest1 who likewise intended to ascend ,adam's ,peak the following day4 ,this was the well-known ,count ,medem1 a ,russian gentleman1 who has frequently traversed both the old and new worlds1 and was now about making a second visit to ,china4#ig ,the next day saw us at ,ratnapoora1 from which point we continued our return journey on the waters of the ,kalu-,gunga1 or ,black ,river1 as far as ,caltura4 ,footnote #ig3 ,count ,medem died the same year at ,shanghai4 ,our boat consisted of two trunks of trees hollowed out and fastened together1 upon which was erected a semicircular tilt1 covered with the leaves of the ,fan ,palm 7,borassus ,flabelliformis71 under which one might sit or lie at pleasure1 sheltered from the sun4 ,as the mail-car that runs daily from ,colombo to ,caltura was already full1 we were compelled1 in order to pursue our journey to ,galle1 to make use of the native waggon1 or bullock-bandy4 ,this is a two-wheeled cart drawn by oxen1 and covered with a semicircular tilt of palm-leaves1 beneath which there was room for two persons to lie at full-length packed closely together4 ,the oxen1 of a breed that have humps and erect horns1 are small1 and walk with a quick1 short tramp1 while their entire bodies are tattooed with ,cingalese characters and ornaments4 ,the horns are usually adorned with metal tips1 and frequently are dyed1 the one red1 the other green4 ,the cross-piece of the pole is fastened to the neck instead of the customary yoke1 and the cord for guiding the animal passes through the nose4 ,the driver either strides along between the two oxen1 or sits with his back to them on the pole4 ,the rate of progression by this national conveyance is so slow1 that the mail-car which left ,colombo the day after overtook us long ere we reached our destination1 and it was with some difficulty we reached ,galle in time for the overland steamer which was to bring us to ,madras4 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,,vi4--,,track ,,from ,,point ,,de ,,galle ,,to ,,madras4 ,at #f ,a4,m4 of the #afth ,january1 the ,novara set sail from the roads of ,point de ,galle with light breezes off the land1 and steered southerly in order to avoid the ,basses or ,baxos1 a much-dreaded rocky shoal1 traditionally alleged to be the remains of the island of ,giri1 swallowed up by the sea1 and which1 owing to the very strong current1 require the utmost care to be observed1 in order to avoid drifting right upon them4#ih ,footnote #ih3 ,a late survey1 instituted with the intention of erecting a lighthouse on the ,basses1 proved a failure1 in consequence of the ground having sunk in while an examination was being made by the diver1 and left nothing but holes filled with water1 in which1 according to the report of the fishermen1 besides fish and molluscs1 sea-snakes are occasionally seen1 of a light-gray colour1 and about #d or #e feet in length4 ,the evening before our departure1 the ,consul for ,hamburg had requested from the ,commander of the ,expedition the favour of a free passage to ,madras1 on board our frigate1 for a native of ,berlin1 named ,neupert4 ,this man had come to ,ceylon a long time previously with a company of rope-dancers1 and had at first made a good deal of money as an acrobat and juggler1 despite the dangerous competition of the ,indian practitioners1 but had afterwards lost his all1 and had been for some weeks in a pitiable plight4 ,the request was at once acceded to1 and ,neupert came on board during the night4 ,his luggage did not encumber him much4 ,however1 although the greatest part of his effects had disappeared in ,galle1 he fortunately had kept his various apparatus2 and1 by way of showing his gratitude for the free passage that had been accorded to him1 professed his willingness1 in the course of the voyage1 to give us some specimens of his skill on deck4 ,accordingly1 one fine afternoon1 he gave us an entertainment out on the open ocean1 which not alone hugely pleased the sturdy tars grouped together on the forecastle1 but ultimately1 in consequence of a collection set on foot for the unfortunate ,berlin acrobat1 procured him enough ready money to enable him to pass the first week after his arrival at ,madras free from anxiety1 besides supplying him with a fresh outfit4 ,within a few days after our departure from ,galle1 several severe cases occurred of hemeralopia1 chiefly among members of the ship's band4 ,every evening1 as darkness set in1 these men lost all power of distinguishing objects1 and had to be led about like blind men4 ,in ,vienna1 we had been advised by various physicians there1 with a view to the confirmation or refutation of the popular belief1 to try the use of boiled ox-liver2#ii and1 as one of the oxen shipped at ,ceylon had been slaughtered1 we were in a position to make the desired experiment1 which1 it must be confessed1 proved eminently successful4 ,this time1 moreover1 several of those thus afflicted were treated with cooked pig's-liver1 which was given them to eat1 while the steam rising from the dish was applied to their eyes4 ,but we had1 on our return voyage1 the most convincing proof of the efficacy of the liver of animals of the ox tribe in cases of night-blindness1 when above twenty of those afflicted1 after frequent relapses during the voyage from ,valparaiso to ,gibraltar1 were treated in the last-named port with ox-liver1 and dismissed permanently cured4#ajj ,footnote #ii3 ,this cure is likewise very much resorted to1 even of late years1 among the ,highlands of ,scotland6 ,footnote #ajj3 ,during the entire voyage round the globe1 there occurred #ge cases of ,hemeralopia2 the largest number of which1 #fj1 occurred between ,cape ,horn and ,gibraltar4 ,the remainder were isolated cases1 occurring at ,rio1 ,ceylon1 the ,nicobar ,islands1 and on the voyage from ,china to ,sydney4 ,the voyage from ,ceylon to ,madras was1 on the whole1 monotonous and void of interest1 with the exception of one single event1 which no one on board is likely to forget for the remainder of his life4 ,about #c4cj ,p4,m4 of the #bnd ,january1 #aheh1 there suddenly resounded from the hold1 the astounding cry of ,fire6 fire6 ,everyone rushed1 in the utmost excitement1 on deck4 ,it turned out that a by no means insignificant quantity of pure alcohol1 which was stowed away in the hold for the preservation of specimens of natural history1 had1 from some unknown cause1 caught fire4 ,forthwith the pumps were manned1 the sails clewed up1 all the portholes closed1 so as to cut off the slightest draught1 and all the hammocks of the crew trundled1 ple-mle on deck anyhow1 out of the quarter-nettings1 in which they are stowed away during the day1 there to be dipped in sea-water1 and in that wringing-wet condition applied1 partly in extinguishing the flames1 partly in preventing the fire from spreading4 ,in less than a quarter of an hour the worst danger was over1 and our wonted quiet restored1 despite the first terrible excitement4 ,on a more searching investigation1 several of the tin carboys in the hold1 filled with spirits of wine1 and kept between layers of sand in iron chests1 were found to have been corroded till the liquor had oozed through1 while the air1 having free access to the sand1 had become strongly impregnated with gas4 ,this atmosphere1 impregnated as it was with alcoholic fumes1 took fire on one of the sailors carelessly entering the hold with a badly-fastened lantern1 and in a moment the light flames which speedily enveloped the man in such a confined space1 at once gave the alarm4 ,the full carboys remained uninjured by the fire4 ,had such a catastrophe happened1 and the whole quantity of spirit 7about #dj gallons7 taken fire1 considering the immense quantities of combustible matter we had on board1 among the rest a ton-and-a-half of gunpowder1 the upshot must have been of a far less agreeable nature4 ,the extraordinary lightning-like activity displayed by the entire ship's company on this occasion was something wonderful4 ,each man seemed to have got wings4 ,there was the most laudable emulation displayed by all hands in seeking to save the lives of themselves and others from such a terrible doom4 ,on the #cjth ,january1 at #g4cj ,p4,m41 we anchored in ,madras ,roads1 so dreaded for their insecurity1 about three nautical miles from the shore1 and in #i fathoms 7#ef feet ,english74 ,even in the calmest weather there is a tremendous surf on this coast1 and from ,october to ,december1 in which strong gales blow from the ,n4,e41 it is all but unapproachable4 ,for this reason1 so soon as the wind increases so as to endanger the ships in the roads1 a flag is hoisted on a staff at the ,master ,attendant's office1 that they may put to sea at once4 ,on the second signal1 all ships must quit the ,roads for fear of being dashed through the surf upon the beach4 ,from the city we heard a running fire of musketry and some salutes with cannon1 which1 considering the prevalence of warlike rumours and movements in the then circumstances of ,india1 made us conjecture that the natives of the ,coromandel coast were also in insurrection against the ,english4 ,however1 we learned afterwards that the musketry and salvoes proceeded from the troops stationed near the drilling-ground1 who were receiving their general on his return from parade with a salute4 ,the following day 7,sunday1 the #cast ,january1 #aheh7 the ,european community of ,madras fell into a precisely similar error in consequence of our salute1 which they1 being at that hour assembled at worship1 mistook for a much less peaceful and agreeable intimation1 so that the majority1 dreading an outbreak1 hurried to their houses in deep anxiety4 ,illustration3 ,,masuli ,,boat ,,at ,,madras4 ,illustration3 ,,view ,,of ,,madras 7,,and ,,proposed ,,pier74 ,,ix4 ,madras4 ,,duration ,,of ,,stay ,,from #cj,,th ,,january ,,to #aj,,th ,,february1 #aheh4 ,catamarans and ,massuli boats4--,difficulty of disembarkation1 and plans for remedying it4--,history4--,brahminism4--,festival in honour of ,vishnu4--,employment of ,heathens under a ,christian ,government4--,politics and ,religion4--,laws of ,brahminic faith4-- ,the ,observatory4--,museum of ,natural ,history and ,zoological ,garden4--,academy of ,fine ,arts4--,medical ,school4--,infirmary4-- ,orphan ,asylum4--,dr4 ,bell4--,lancastrian ,method of ,teaching ,children first applied in ,madras4--,colonel ,mackenzie's ,collection of ,indian ,inscriptions and ,manuscripts4--,the ,palace of the former ,nabob of the ,coromandel ,coast4--,journey by rail to ,vellore4--,fte given by the ,governor in ,guindy ,park4-- ,visit to the ,monolithic ,monuments of ,mahamalaipuram4-- ,excursion to ,pulicat ,lake4--,madras ,club4--,fte in honour of the members of the ,novara ,expedition4--,tiffin and dance on board4--,departure from ,madras4--,zodiacal light4--,shrove ,tuesday in the tropics4--,arrival at the ,island of ,kar-,nicobar4 ,the morning after our arrival in ,madras ,roads1 a native boat came alongside1 of the sort known as ,catamarans1 having on board two natives1 who brought off from the authorities of the port the customary papers to be filled up4 ,this extraordinary and very primitive boat consists of merely two or three trunks of trees bound together raft-fashion1 on which these daring boatmen kneel4 ,as a great part of their body is necessarily under water1 they carry the papers and letters entrusted to them for transmission to the ships in the ,roads1 in turban-like wrappings which envelope their heads4 ,ordinarily1 these men are excellent swimmers1 a most requisite accomplishment to enable them to regain their boats1 in the event of being swept off by the waves1 or to save themselves and others from the innumerable sharks1 which frequent the entire ,coromandel coast1 and render it eminently dangerous4 ,about noon1 a larger boat approached us1 manned by from #ae to #bj natives1 who offered their services as caterers1 washers1 agents1 servants1 in short as ,dubashes a sort of ,hindoo factotum2 while each individual1 shrieking and vociferating at the top of his voice1 held high in the air1 with outstretched arm1 a number of written testimonials of ship-captains that had already employed him4 ,these boats1 called ,massuli1 or ,musli boats 7from ,muchly--fish71 about #cf feet long by #e or #f in width1 and in which alone it is possible to bring passengers and goods to land1 are light1 as flexible as if made of leather1 and are fastened together with the elastic fibres of the cocoa-nut1 being in every particular specially adapted to yield to the tremendous blows of the heavy surf1 which a boat of ordinary construction could not possibly live through4 ,they are for the most part pretty deep1 and are usually manned with from #ab to #ae naked natives1 who make use of an exceedingly smooth pallette-shaped paddle4 ,in one of these boats1 the officers of the frigate on leave1 and the naturalists of the ,expedition1 were conveyed to land in the midst of a fresh breeze from the ,n4,e4 ,the more we approached the shore1 the more formidable was the appearance of the tumultuous tempest-driven waves4 ,amid frightful yells and hurrahs1 we passed in safety the first and second lines of surf4 ,but we had yet to encounter the third1 and by far the most furious4 ,the boatmen spread a couple of cloths over our heads1 to prevent our getting a soaking2 the boat made several violent plunges forward1 and was for an instant apparently covered by the tremendous foaming billows1 but seemed to glide in a most extraordinary manner over these1 and finally was neatly laid alongside the beach on the crest of the last breaker4 ,this is the critical moment1 and the most disagreeable1 because the boat is1 by this manipulation1 thrown on its side1 and one feels disposed to rush out1 ere the returning wave throws the boat high and dry on the sand4 ,the noisy shrieks of the boat's crew and ,coolies1 or ,lascars 7,indian porters71 with which the disembarkation is accompanied1 combine to render it still more annoying and unpleasant4 ,one feels a sensation of satisfaction at having gone through this remarkable1 and to some extent wholly peculiar1 experience2 but no one was ever known to encounter it voluntarily a second time4 ,the glowing picture1 which numbers of travellers have drawn of the landing at ,madras1 might impress many readers with the idea that their representations were most probably tinged somewhat with a colouring of romance2 but1 in view of our own experience at what is confessedly the pleasantest season of the year1 there can be at certain times no description1 however vividly sketched1 but what must lag behind the reality4 ,there could hardly have been selected a more unsuitable site for a city1 than that of ,madras1 and it is only the circumstance that the entire ,coromandel coast presents no more eligible haven1 as also the importance of the place as the chief city of the ,carnatic1 which alone has a population of #e1jjj1jjj1 that has enabled ,madras to boast a population of #gjj1jjj inhabitants1 and a commerce of such magnitude that #fjjj vessels1 ,british and foreign1 are annually#aja cleared inwards and outwards1 laden with upwards of #fej1jjj tons of produce and goods of a total value of more than #h1jjj1jjj sterling4 ,footnote #aja3 ,in the year #aheg1 the number of trading vessels was #fbda1 carrying #feb1adf tons merchandise1 of which #adch were square-sailed ships2 and #dhjc native boats and ,chinese junks4 ,the imports of goods and metals amounted to ,rs4 #dj1efc1hbf 7about #d1jej1jjj in round numbers72 the exports to ,rs4 #dj1jfj1fef 7about #d1jjj1jjj in round numbers74 ,we are indebted to the kindness of ,dr4 ,balfour for a variety of interesting statistical data1 the information contained in which must be transferred to the statistical portion of the ,novara publications4 ,the spot at which vessels anchor can by no stretch of terms be called a roadstead1 being in fact nothing but an open strip of coast running nearly due north and south1 so that during the ,n4,e4 monsoons1 the sea that sets in is something extraordinary1 and produces a tremendous surf4 ,at no season of the year is it practicable to reach the shore by ordinary ship-boats1 because the beach1 being utterly unprovided with any artificial appliances1 is left in its natural state--that is to say1 covered with fine sand1 which lies so level that the depth is only nine fathoms two miles out at sea6 ,singular to say1 no steps have to this day been taken to carry out the proposition1 made many long years ago1 of remedying this difficulty in reaching land1 by the construction of a mole or pier1 although three or four plans have already been presented by distinguished engineers4 ,the last and most feasible scheme1 and the most likely to be put in execution1 consists in constructing a mole #ajjj feet in length and #fj feet in breadth1 to be erected upon iron piles driven into the sand1 and with a cross-piece at the seaward extremity--the mole construction resembling the letter ,t4 ,on either side of the mole1 tramways will be laid down to facilitate the transport of goods that have been discharged4 ,the entire cost of this undertaking would be about #ajj1jjj--;an entirely disproportionate1 and1 indeed1 insignificant amount1 when one takes into consideration the important consequences which must result to trade and passenger traffic on the completion of this erection4 ,the earliest ,british settlement was at ,armegon1 about #cf miles north of ,pulicat 7or about #gh miles ,n4 by ,w4 of ,madras74 ,the cession of a piece of land by the native ,rajah of ,besnayor induced the president of the old factory at ,armegon1 ,mr4 ,francis ,day1 to abandon the latter1 and in the year #afci1 the ,fort of ,st4 ,george was erected at the newly-selected station1 where formerly stood the little ,hindoo village of ,ischinapatam4 ,this fort formed the nucleus1 at a later period1 of the city of ,madras1 which is built on the flat alluvial soil along the coast1 and at present comprises an area of about #cj 7,english7 square miles4 ,its extent along the beach from north to south is about #i miles by an extreme width of #c-c_/d miles4 ,madras1 like all the rest1 consists of a ,white town1 exclusively inhabited by ,europeans1 and a ,black town1 or ,pettah1 in which the natives and all coloured residents carry on business4 ,the ,white town1 which1 however1 presents none of the carefully laid-out streets and compact blocks of houses involuntarily suggested by the word town1 but rather resembles a gigantic park1 in which are situated a vast number of comfortable ornamental villas1 rises at its highest point #bj feet above the sea2 whereas the ,black town1 at several points--for instance1 ,popham's ,broadway--is hardly #h feet above the level of spring floods4 ,while in ,ceylon we had had an opportunity of becoming acquainted with the influence exercised by ,buddhism over the political and social condition of the island2 here we1 for the first time1 found ourselves confronted with the followers of ,brahmah4 ,at the moment of our arrival1 the principal festival of the year was being celebrated in honour of ,vishn1 one of the three godheads of the ,brahminical faith4 ,it lasted fourteen days1 and was celebrated with much pomp4 ,temples were improvised1 and some dancing platforms erected for the female servants of the temple and bayadres4 ,in one of these dancing saloons1 adorned in the most marvellous manner1 a sort of altar rose in the background1 richly hung with gold filagree work and stained cut-glass1 and fringed with singular representations of the god4 ,in the doorway stood1 on the left hand side1 a copy of the statue of the ,venus de' ,medici2 on the right1 of the ,apollo ,belvedere2 on a small table were visible butterflies1 fire-flies1 and conchs1 in ornamental glass cases4 ,on the walls1 of plain deal boards1 were suspended on one side1 adjoining the portrait of ,anthony da ,padua1 a number of representations of voluptuous ,oriental odalisques2 on the other1 near an engraving in copper of ,carlo ,barromeo1 all sorts of obscene engravings1 such as are offered for sale only in the most abandoned quarters of ,paris and ,london1 and then under the cover of night4 ,for that matter1 we believe that the ,hindoo priests1 who superintended the erection of this hall consecrated to the worship of ,vishn1 gave themselves less anxiety respecting the subjects treated of in the pictures suspended round1 than that the walls should appear richly decorated with engravings and pictures4 ,adjoining this half-open dancing booth for the women in attendance on the temple1 rises the chief ,hindoo temple in ,madras1 a stately edifice of blocks of syenite1 and surrounded by a lofty wall painted with the usual white and red streaks2 and on which a fleecy-coated long-tailed baboon was performing his antics4 ,two gloomy pyramidal towers shoot up from the wall of the temple1 and a beautiful colonnade leads to the entrance porch4 ,a huge tank1 almost resembling a pond1 in which the ,hindoos thrice daily performed their ceremonies1 and went through their ablutions1 lies in front of the temple1 surrounded on its remaining sides by buildings for various purposes1 while a stately elephant1 specially consecrated to the service1 is kept on the side next the temple1 which carries up a pitcher of water every forenoon from the pool in front of the pagoda1 one of the servants attached to the temple sitting on his back holding it1 while a second1 seated behind him1 keeps waving a fan in either hand4 ,the elephant is first conducted round the temple and then inside1 in order to present the water to the god4 ,this elephant 7which animal it seems is itself an incarnation of ,vishn7 had the distinguishing mark of the sect1 as also several other indications of a similar nature richly tatooed upon his huge broad forehead4 ,every evening during the continuance of the fourteen days' festival1 the various temples and dancing booths were brilliantly illuminated with wax tapers and oil lamps1 but admission was refused to the profane1 and in the eyes of ,brahmah1 unbelieving ,europeans1 a rule which was everywhere enforced with much politeness but unvarying firmness4 ,moreover1 everything that the hand of a ,european has touched is unclean to the ,hindoo4 ,only the ,pariah1 or outcaste1 the very lowest class of the people1 eats any food that has been prepared in the kitchen of a ,christian4 ,the most substantial part of the festival1 however1 was fortunately not confined to the interior of the temple1 but took place in the streets1 through which1 during the period the festival lasted1 immense processions of ,hindoos1 praying1 singing1 and dancing1 used to pass every evening about #aa ,p4,m4 on their way from one temple to another1 so that we were in no want of picturesque objects4 ,first1 a band of musicians would lead the way1 with the peculiar little drum or tom-tom1 whining pipes1 and blaring clarinets4 ,it was more like the noise of a lot of children's instruments than music4 ,next came a ,hindoo riding on a gaily-bedizened ox1 after whom appeared a number of girls and ,bayadres1 dressed in white clothes1 their hair richly dressed1 and with rings through their nostrils1 while the flaps of their ears were adorned with richly-gemmed ear-rings hanging down to the neck1 and moving both hands and feet as they danced before the sacred figure1 which was drawn along by #bd sturdy believers in ,vishn4 ,the image was placed on a das thickly overspread with flowers1 filagree work1 and small mirrors1 approached by steps1 and with a parasol outspread overhead2 in a vehicle in front was a sort of figure dressed up in flowers4 ,on either side a multitude of torch-bearers strode along1 with sulphurous lights and other means of illumination1 or iron frames1 on which were disposed in pyramidal form or like a bow1 from #g to #ac fireballs1 which1 let off at intervals alternately with ,bengal lights and rockets1 formed a veritable ocean of light4 ,a tub filled with cocoa-nut oil was dragged behind1 from which the cotton wicks were kept constantly replenished1 so that the flames continued unintermittently4 ,wherever the procession passed the by-standers stood with hands reverentially folded4 ,many had the thresholds of their houses gaily adorned with flags and illuminated with paper lamps1 others let off sky-rockets4 ,from time to time1 the procession halted for a moment1 the female dancers formed two rows1 and some of their number went through a sort of dance1 in which they performed a set of stereotyped motions with their hands1 and chanted the praises of the god in a most monotonous chorus4 ,thousands upon thousands of ,hindoos joined the procession1 so that we could hardly make way through the crowds4 ,the yelling1 heat1 odour of oil1 and stink of sulphur were absolutely intolerable4 ,as often as the procession paused1 the noise was redoubled1 the confusion became tenfold4 ,itinerant confectioners1 who offered for sale all sorts of sweetmeats1 prepared either from the kernel or milk of the cocoa-nut1 drew back reluctantly when the eye of a stranger was directed towards their piled-up delicacies1 through dread lest a mere glance from him should blight their stock in trade4 ,on the other hand1 we remarked some of these vendors pressing forward with eagerness to satisfy the curiosity of strangers by offering small samples of their eatables1 so as the more easily to propitiate and get rid of these dangerous guests1 and leave the poor ,hindoo in peace and unharmed6 ,as ,christianity makes but slow progress among the ,hindoos1 and as the tendencies of the ,english residents in ,india do not point1 as of yore among the ,spaniards in ,america1 towards the violent conversion of the heathen natives with the alternative of annihilation1 but rather towards political and commercial influences1 we find the ,british ,government regarding with placid indifference the abominations of ,hindoo worship1 which1 even to this hour1 take the form of laceration of the flesh and self-immolation1 rather than1 by ruling with the strong hand1 fan the religious fanaticism of the multitude1 without the possibility of ,christianity becoming a gainer4 ,among the thousands upon thousands who were celebrating the festival of ,vishn in such a heathenish fashion1 there undoubtedly were many who are in the employ of ,government1 which has no scruples about appointing ,hindoos of all sorts to the various posts in the public service4 ,the ,english ,state ,church which held that such appointments tended1 not very indirectly1 to support heathenism1#ajb earnestly remonstrated against the practice1 but the ,government becoming daily more convinced that the doctrines and homilies of the ,christian faith continued to be entirely a dead letter among the ,hindoos1 seems to hold fast to a policy of seeking gradually to introduce ,christianity and ,european civilization among the ,indian races1 by means of equality of rights and assimilation of laws1 by a system of well-organized national1 trade1 and industrial education1 and1 above all1 by the influence of personal example4 ,this1 to be sure1 is a very slow and arduous method of conversion1 inasmuch as a life of religious observances is more deeply intertwined with the very foundations of the social system in ,india than in any other country of the globe1 and fairly blocks the way against the expansiveness of ,european civilization4 ,for as simple as the ,hindoo religion appears in its primitive principles1 the proper observance of its various rites is proportionately difficult1 and full of subtle distinctions for the sincere ,hindoo believer4 ,footnote #ajb3 ,the ,east ,india ,company even undertook the maintenance of the ,hindoo temples1 and defrayed the receipts of the annual festival in honour of ,vishn out of the revenues4 ,there exist in the ,presidency of ,madras alone #hbib ,hindoo temples1 with an annual revenue of about #ajj1jjj1 all under the protection and control of the ,company4 7,see ,india1 ,ancient and ,modern1 by ,david ,o4 ,allen1 ,boston1 #ahef47 ,the worship of ,brahma1 according to the doctrines enunciated by ,brahma's own lips in the ,vedas1 or holy books1 took its rise in the adoration paid to the powers of nature1 regarded as so many divinities1 especially in the exalted transcendentalism of their ideas respecting the sun1 the moon1 the stars1 and the firmament4 ,thence was readily developed the belief in a sole1 eternal1 ,almighty ,creator and ,ruler of the world1 ,brahma1 represented as having four faces looking to the four quarters of the globe1 and reposing on a swan4 ,this simple monotheistic belief was gradually developed into the divine manifestation of ,brahma as a ,triune divinity1 namely1 as the ,creating power 7,brahma71 the preserving power 7,vishn71 and the destroying1 and at the same time renewing1 energy of nature 7,siva74 ,although the revelation of ,brahma has long since been completed1 while ,vishn and ,siva are still active agencies in the world as ,supporter and ,augmenter respectively1 ,brahma is assigned a very inferior rank in the worship of the masses1 although1 according to the lawgiver ,men1 the ,moses of ,india1 he created the ,brahmins out of the substance of his head1 to guide and instruct man2 from his arms the ,chetriyas1 to protect and defend him2 from his trunk the ,veisigas1 to nourish and support him2 and1 lastly1 from his feet the ,sadras1 to serve and be the property of all the other castes4 ,to ,brahma1 the fulness of whose existence no earthly notions can embrace1 there are no temples dedicated1 these being rather erected in honour of ,vishn1 the ,intercessor and ,supporter1 who manifests himself in the atmosphere and in water1 and ,siva the destroyer and regenerator of the various races1 as also to the other divinities whom the ,hindoo religion numbers by millions1 although the majority of these have several names1 and the lower classes are simply ,avatars1 that is incarnations or manifestations1 of the superior deities4 ,this peculiarity of the ,hindoo religion makes it impossible correctly to classify or define ,indian mythology4 ,the god ,rama1 for example1 is frequently named for ,krishna1 and the latter again for ,vishn4 ,vishn1 on his part1 sometimes figures as ,rama1 when he is to destroy ,ravana1 the tyrant of ,ceylon1 or as ,buddha1 in order to found ,buddhism4 ,like the ,proteus of ,grecian fable1 the ,hindoo mythology assumes a thousand different shapes1--it is1 in short1 ,pantheism in its most perfect development4 ,a zealous ,hindoo requires about four hours of each day to get through his religious ceremonies1 these being performed at different periods1 as he must bathe in the morning1 at noon1 and again at night1 in a tank or pool before the temple1 and recite certain prayers4 ,for purposes of recognition1 the two chief castes wear special marks1 the worshippers of ,vishn having a trident painted on the forehead in either white or yellow1 while those of ,siva1 on the other hand1 sport three horizontal stripes1 or one round spot marked with the ash of burnt sandal-wood4 ,many ,hindoos write on their foreheads the distinguishing insignia of both ,vishn and ,siva1 and look thus the more strange and peculiar4 ,after every ablution these marks are painted afresh1 and with much care upon the forehead1 so that paint and rouge-boxes play an important part in a native household4 ,no ,hindoo can partake of his exclusively vegetable nutriment1 if cooked in a ,european kitchen1 such being entirely contrary to the principles of his faith4 ,every servant1 therefore1 leaves his master regularly at noon1 in order to partake of his simple meal of rice and vegetables1 either with his family or in one of the numerous ,hindoo cook-shops4 ,the frequent holidays of the ,hindoos1 of which there are twenty-one within two months1 seriously interfere with trade among the natives1 and still more with the instruction of the young4 ,hindooism1 however1 appears to have lost much of its originality by constant contact with ,europeans1 and by the various political revolutions1 and although many of these ceremonies are still kept up1 and the bodies of their dead are still burned on pyres1 yet the modern ,hindoo has so far relaxed from his ascetic austerity1 as to admit of his being employed in the various pursuits of active life4 ,and it is not a little surprising to see these handsome1 tall1 brown figures1 with their insignia of ,vishn or ,siva marked on their foreheads1 and dressed in their sweeping plaited togas of pure white1 employed on the telegraph1 the railway1 the arsenal1 and even the observatory1 all which employments demand the utmost exactness and punctuality1 and thus afford the most gratifying evidence of the adaptability of the ,hindoo race to be impressed and to benefit by ,european civilization4 ,with the exception of ,major ,jacob1 the director of the astronomical and magnetic observatory1 the whole of the employs are natives1 who are not indeed employed in making the actual observations1 but are found perfectly competent to compute the various calculations1 and make the requisite reductions4 ,the institution itself is at present of but little importance as a place of scientific observation1 in consequence of the small support it receives1 but it is to be provided with a meridian circle1 similar to that in the ,royal ,observatory at the ,cape of ,good ,hope1 when it must become an important station4 ,strange to say1 here1 as at the ,cape1 there are no observations made on the ,sundays1 which in the course of a year gives rise to lamentable deficiencies1 especially when some natural phenomenon of rare occurrence happens to fall upon a ,sunday4 ,we were greatly surprised at the flourishing condition of the ,central ,museum1 with which is united a ,zoological ,garden1 both set on foot in #ahea4 ,in the spacious rooms of this stately edifice are ranged costly ,indian antiquities and sculptures1 inscriptions in ,sanscrit1 in stone1 or marble slabs1 antique fragments of ,indian monuments1#ajc as also an instructive collection of technical and ethnographical subjects1 models of fortresses1 ships1 agricultural implements1 instruments1 tools1 machines1 and native forts4 ,the geological department of the ,museum is the weakest and poorest department2 and as spirits of wine and glass jars are expensive articles in ,india1 the greatest number of the animals1 even the fish and snakes1 are simply stuffed4 ,in the garden which surrounds the museum buildings are a considerable number of cages inclosing living animals1 such as monkeys1 panthers1 bears1 giraffes1 stags1 gazelles1 cobras1 ,indian hens1 pigeons1 marsh-birds1 and singing-birds4 ,in addition there were ,aquaria with fishes arranged in groups at various spots all round the garden4 ,of objects of special interest there was a powerful baboon 7,pithecus ,satyrus71 above #e feet high1 fastened to a chain in a large monkey-house1 around whom were gambolling a number of smaller species1 as also a number of cobras in a large box with glass sides1 so that one could examine them at leisure on every side4 ,here we witnessed the uncomfortable spectacle of a native engaged in cleaning the panes inside the cage and directly beneath these formidable animals1 which thronged around him in such numbers that he was continually compelled with one hand to resist their importunate caresses4 ,anyone not aware of the fact that these animals have been rendered harmless by the extraction of their poison-fangs1 must experience a feeling of terror and astonishment at the sight of this brood of malign1 stealthy-moving1 hissing serpents1 with a naked ,hindoo in their midst6 ,footnote #ajc3 ,these important inscriptions are explained and described in the ,selections from the ,records of the ,madras ,government1 ,report on the ,elliot ,marbles 7p4 #aia7 by ,r4 ,w4 ,taylor1 ,madras1 #aheg4 ,most astonishing and gratifying is the immense number of casual visitors that frequent this institution for advancing education4 ,the book for inscribing names lying in the ,museum1 showed for a single month no less than #cf1ebb visitors1 mostly natives1 and this it seems has been about the average number since the foundation of the ,museum4 ,there is also a small1 valuable library1 which1 by means of purchases1 gifts1 and exchanges1 is being visibly added to with each year1 and is accessible to visitors of all classes1 the custodian and inspectors being all natives4 ,the ,madras ,literary ,society1 an offshoot of the ,royal ,asiatic ,society in ,london1 and now reckoning but a small number of associates1 publishes from time to time the most valuable information as to the latest achievements of science in ,india1 and serves in a measure as a medium by which to compare the intellectual progress of ,asia and ,europe4 ,to the members of this society the naturalists of the ,novara ,expedition are specially beholden for their great attention during their stay in ,madras1 as also for their hearty participation in the objects of the ,imperial ,expedition as evidenced by their sending copies of their own various and useful publications4 ,there are in ,madras numerous institutes devoted to the diffusion of useful knowledge among the masses1 part founded and maintained by ,government1 part by private enterprise1 and this liberality is the more praiseworthy that the ,european community of ,madras does not comprise much more than #afjj persons1 of whom only a very few settle any length of time4 ,the ,europeans resident here are chiefly military men and merchants1 who leave the country after remaining five or ten years1 as almost every one regards his stay in this hot1 sandy capital of the desert ,coromandel coast1 as purely provisional1 and views it as a stepping-stone towards attaining some better post1 or becoming suddenly wealthy by some favourable conjuncture of circumstances4 ,that the majority of these institutions have more practical objects in view admits of ready proof1 and is but one instance the more of the moulding power of surrounding circumstances4 ,in the school of arts for instance1 under ,dr4 ,hunter's superintendence1 there are #bj pupils1 mostly ,hindoos1 who are receiving instruction in drawing1 sculpture1 lithography1 woodcutting1 etching1 and photography4 ,but in order to reduce1 as far as possible1 the expenses of this institution1 there is also included a manufacture of earthenware1 the proceeds arising from the sale of which are applied to the support of the school4 ,another eminently useful institution1 the ,medical ,college1 which1 as well as most of the other professional foundations1 we visited in the company with our hospitable and influential friend1 ,dr4 ,kelly1 possesses one division1 in which such of the natives as purpose to set up as apothecaries1 are at the same time so far educated as to be able1 in case of necessity1 to perform a few of the minor surgical operations4 ,of the hundred of an auditory who at the period of our visit were attending a lecture on chemistry1 the majority were half-blooded ,indians1 dressed in the ,european fashion1 with a sprinkling of barely #i or #aj ,hindoos in their white robes1 and with the ,vishn or ,siva marks on their forehead4 ,we frequently heard the professors1 among whom are several gentlemen of high scientific attainments1 such1 for instance1 as ,messrs4 ,evans1 ,lorimer1 ,mudge1 ,montgomery1 ,mayr1 c41 express their regret at the severe check which the development of science sustained by the outbreak of the late revolt4 ,plans for a new university1 a hospital1 and a medical school to correspond are all ready1 and but for that ruinous catastrophe would have been by this time in working order4 ,in other respects the present ,infirmary is an ugly and unsuitable building1 making up about #ajj beds for patients4 ,several of these were occupied by soldiers1 who had been severely wounded under ,havelock at the storming of ,delhi4 ,the introduction of punkahs1 or wind-fans1 into the wards has proved so salutary1 that there is an intention to have them worked without intermission day and night1 by means of water power1 instead of by manual labour as hitherto4 ,in order to be able to estimate the boon conferred by such an improvement upon the condition of the poor invalids1 we must call to mind that the average annual temperature of ,madras is about #id ,fahr41 which is slightly in excess of the average temperature at the equator1 although ,madras is #aj degrees north of the line4 ,under such climatic conditions1 it is no wonder that the invigorating wholesome breeze is known at ,madras as ,the ,doctor4 ,among the benevolent institutions visited by us1 we found the twin asylums for male and female orphans of soldiers well worthy of notice in many particulars4 ,these are for the most part the offspring of ,european soldiers married to native women1 and are known as half-castes1 or ,mestizoes4 ,in the ,military ,female ,asylum1 there were at this time #baf girls1 who were brought up to all manner of female work1 as well as taught reading1 writing1 and arithmetic1 and remained in the institution until suitably provided for in marriage4 ,the marriage outfit1 as also a small wedding present of ,rs4 #ej 7#e71 for each girl is provided by ,government1 and the entire working expenses1 which amount to about ,rs4 #cj1jjj 7#cjjj7 annually1 are defrayed by a ,government grant of ,rs4 #ajjj 7#ajj7 a month1 together with the interest of the funded capital1 upon which ,government pays #h per cent4 interest4 ,the ,military ,male ,orphan ,asylum was founded in #aghh by means of voluntary contributions1 supplemented by a ,government ,subvention1 and possesses a special historical interest from the circumstance that it was here that ,dr4 ,bell1 who held the post of ,head-,master in the establishment1 first projected and put into execution the method of imparting elementary instruction1 afterwards so widely renowned as the ,lancastrian method of teaching1 which since that period has traversed the globe1 and has been introduced into every capital in ,europe4 ,the course of instruction of the institution includes writing1 reading1 arithmetic1 grammar1 geography1 history1 ,english1 ,tamil1 and music4 ,the capital of the institution is vested by ,government in the #d per cent4 stocks1 paying #h per cent4 interest1 which1 with the large amount realized within the establishment itself1 is sufficient to defray all expenses without any further assistance4 ,the number of boys is about #bdb4 ,the head teacher1 who obligingly conducted us over the whole establishment1 which is very handsome1 called a dozen boys forward just as we were leaving1 who played a few simple pieces on wind instruments1 on which they performed a variety of national airs with great precision4 ,the music master was a ,german4 ,among its casual attractions1 ,madras has occasionally flower shows1 and exhibitions of industry1 and it is exceedingly gratifying to observe how ,european science is even here called in to elicit the treasures of nature1 and administer to the necessities of mankind4 ,the catalogue of the industrial exhibition of #aheg shows1 inter alia1 #ag sorts of spices1 #bj varieties of resin1 #fd plants suitable for the distillation of oil1 and #da different drugs1 and ,dr4 ,kirkpatrick1 a physician in ,mysore1 has taken the trouble to enumerate1 by their botanical and ,indian names1 #bdj native drugs1 which had been sent to the ,madras exhibition1 as also their market value1 and at the same time has subjoined the modes in which the natives use them4 ,among the most remarkable private museums which have been formed at ,madras for the illustration of the history and monuments of the southern provinces of the ,deccan1 must undoubtedly be included the collection of native inscriptions and manuscripts of the well-known ,colonel ,mackenzie1 which first attracted the attention of all friends of ,oriental science1 as also the ,british ,government1 through a memoir#ajd of ,alexander ,johnston1 ,esq4 ,it is a magnificent testimony to the conservative spirit of the ,british resident among heathen nations1 as compared with the barbarous spirit of destruction that characterized the ,spanish colonists4 ,from an erroneous idea that they were in so doing promoting the interests of ,christianity1 these ,romanist conquerors destroyed all sculptures and monuments of the pagan ,indian races1 and1 by this fanatical ,vandalism1 at the same time prevented the hand of science from unfolding1 as it might have done from these important vestiges1 the history of these very remarkable races from the most remote ages4 ,footnote #ajd3 ,on ,colonel ,mackenzie's ,collection1 in the ,journal of the ,royal ,asiatic ,society of ,great ,britain4 ,london1 #ahce1 p4 #d1 vol4 ii4 ,in the immense old palace1 surrounded by adjacent edifices and gardens1 once occupied by the ,king of the ,coromandel coast1 the renowned nabob of the ,carnatic1 the offices of the ,english ,government employs are at present located4 ,the last of these sovereigns died a few years since1 and his former minister receives from the ,british ,government a pension of ,rs4 #acjj 7#acj7 a month4 ,great men who have fallen do not ordinarily like to be sought out or gazed at4 ,there is1 however1 on the contrary1 no difficulty in obtaining access to the last minister of the last monarch of the ,coromandel coast1 who seems to feel flattered by a visit from strangers4 ,on our entering1 the venerable old gentleman rose from a rich thick carpet1 on which he was sitting cross-legged1 held out his hand in the most affable manner1 and did us the honour of accompanying us through the palace4 ,he had a long white beard1 and wore a white turban on his head1 while his person was enveloped in white linen4 ,a splendid staircase conducted to a council-room1 adorned with a portrait of the late nabob1 life-size1 executed in ,london4 ,a second room has a likeness of ,george ,augustus ,frederick1 ,prince of ,wales1 dedicated to his friend1 ,omadal-,omrah1 nabob of the ,carnatic1 #ast ,january1 #agig1 and of ,lord ,cornwallis1 arm in arm with a nabob1 the former represented as walking among pines1 the latter among palms4 ,in the harness-room and coach-house adjoining1 our obliging attendant revealed to us an endless array of golden howdah trappings1 gilt with cunning hand1 which seemed to have formerly borne the mighty nabob1 when riding on his elephant4 ,as we emerged from this lumber room1 filled with dust and mud1 we perceived in the square before us an immense dust-cloud1 which approached nearer and nearer in its gyrations1 and gradually assumed the shape of an elephant4 ,it was a gigantic and magnificent specimen1 and proved to be the favourite elephant of the last nabob1 which1 like the minister himself1 was reduced to eat the bread of charity4 ,his enormous tusks were sawn half off1 for which his attendant assigned the singular reason that the tusks of an elephant must be cut1 just as we pair our nails6 ,this pensioner-elephant1 however1 seemed to find himself in very good quarters1 and was a carefully-tended gentle creature1 who carried about his chain with his proboscis1 and knelt down at the word of command4 ,among the other spacious apartments of this deserted palace was the banquetting hall1 as it is called1 which was represented by various writers as one of the largest rooms in the world1 which1 however1 is a transparent fallacy4 ,it is hard to believe that above a thousand persons could find room in it4 ,at the period of our visit this apartment was used as a barrack for the ,english troops1 in consequence of which the splendid full-length pictures already mentioned were carefully covered4 ,one of the soldiers1 anxious to show them to us1 tore away the covering of one before we could interfere1 when we found it to be a splendid likeness1 painted in ,london1 of ,sir ,thomas ,monroe1 a former governor of ,madras4 ,in the first few days of our stay in ,madras1 we made an excursion to the fort of ,vellore1 distant about #hj miles 7,english7 from ,madras1 formerly a renowned native fort1 which is now reached in a few hours by rail4 ,this line passes through a flat uninteresting country1 which is barely relieved here and there by a couple of solitary palms or a ,hindoo temple1 and altogether presents a strongly ,african character in its scenery4 ,only at those points1 at which there are tanks1 or artificial basins1 either excavated or formed by damming the water1 does there occur a luxuriant green vegetation covering the parched1 brown1 dusty soil4 ,these tanks are filled in the rainy season1 and during the dry season1 which continues for months1 supply the rice-fields with water for irrigation1 the culture of that plant requiring an unusually large supply of water4 ,if ,english railroads are proverbially comfortable in the mother-country1 they certainly fall off lamentably in that particular in the cars used in ,india4 ,this deficiency is the more provoking and remarkable1 considering the various other appliances for comfort which are to be found in this country4 ,the conductor1 as well as the other servants of the ,company1 was a ,hindoo4 ,on the entire line we saw but five or six white men employed4 ,the fares are pretty moderate1 that for the entire distance1 #hj miles1 being ,rupees #g-a_/b 7#aes471 for first-class1 and ,rupees #c 7#fs471 second 7about #b-a_/d;d4 and #a;d4 per mile1 respectively74 ,the line is to be extended from ,bejapoor1 so as to unite the eastern and western coasts of the peninsula4 ,there are also lines projected from ,madras to ,bombay by ,poonah and ,bellary1 and from ,madras to ,calcutta4 ,the ,governor1 who 7the evening previous to our departure1 as we were being entertained at his summer residence1 ,guindy ,park17 had been apprized of our intention to visit ,vellore1 was so attentive as to order the commandant to be informed by telegraph of our projected excursion at a late hour of the evening1 and when we reached ,vellore at #aa ,a4,m41 ,captain ,stevens was awaiting us at the station1 to greet the voyagers by the ,novara in the name of the commandant of the fort1 and convey them to the fort1 three miles off1 in a waggon drawn by oxen1 as is the custom of the country4 ,the waggon was about as large as an ordinary sized sitting-room1 and contained several arm-chairs and cane stools1 the position of which could be altered at pleasure4 ,vellore was once one of the strongest fortresses in ,india1 the wells of which were formerly rendered inaccessible by numerous colonies of alligators4 ,these ,hindoo fortifications have1 however1 lost their military importance for ,europeans1 as they are on all sides overcrowed1 as ,rittmeister ,dugald ,dalgetty would say1 by eminences1 from which they could easily be cannonaded4 ,within the fort itself are several extraordinary buildings1 once pagodas and houses of entertainment for priests and pilgrims 7choultries74 ,the former sanctuary1 now used as an arsenal1 is a chef-d'oeuvre of architectural skill1 with splendid relievos and figures sculptured in granite blocks4 ,most of the divinities have four arms1 symbolical of the universality of their power4 ,the various edifices seem to have been once an abode of ,brahmins1 a sort of ,hindoo monastery in which1 in addition to the pagoda1 there were ranged all round1 a temple1 colonnades1 and halls for the residence of the priests4 ,in some of the smaller apartments there still are openings for windows1 with a finely carved grating hewn out of the solid granite1 the workmanship of which even the stone-cutters of our own days might feel proud of4 ,captain ,mitchell1 an ,english officer stationed at ,madras1 had hit upon the idea of photographing the most interesting of these monuments4 ,the fortress of ,vellore has been fortified for about #ajjj years6 ,captured by the ,english at the close of the last century1 the then ,nabob1 a ,mussulman1 was taken prisoner1 and his descendants have ever since inhabited the fort as ,state prisoners1 without ever being permitted to leave it4 ,we inquired of the officer who accompanied us1 whether the ,nabob was permitted at least to make use of the space within the fortress for exercise in the open air4 ,the ,mussulmen1 replied the cautious ,englishman1 do not care to show themselves in public2 they prefer taking their exercise in the court in front of their residence1 or in the garden4 ,accordingly1 the aged prince is rarely known even to take an airing in a palanquin4 ,the town of ,vellore itself is1 in a great measure1 another place altogether1 whose inhabitants are ,mahometans1 about #hj1jjj in number1 chiefly engaged in rice culture4 ,we originally intended to return the same day to ,madras1 the length of the journey1 as well as the distance of the fort from the railway station1 having been represented to us as much shorter than was actually the case4 ,accordingly1 we telegraphed to the ,austrian ,consul1 ,m4 ,campbell1 ,esq41 an exceedingly courteous gentleman1 that we should not return till the following morning4 ,how great was our astonishment to find that the telegraph employs at ,vellore1 both in the transcribing department1 and in the management of the apparatus1 which was on ,morse's system1 were ,hindoos1 with their curious marks upon their foreheads1 and their old-fashioned costume6 ,they went1 however1 through the duties connected with this modern invention with great adroitness4 ,the telegraph is already in operation to ,bombay1 and in this direction has two separate lines4 ,there are1 moreover1 other lines in course of construction1--along the coast to ,calcutta1--along the coast to ,pondicherry by ,adam's ,bridge1#aje from ,madras to ,point de ,galle1 and from ,madras to ,hyderabad1 ,bangalore1 and ,bellary4 ,footnote #aje3 ,adam's ,bridge--called by the ,hindoos ,rama's ,bridge1--is a bank extending between ,ceylon and the mainland of ,hindostan1 by the islands of ,manaar and ,ramisseram4 ,it is about #cj miles in length1 running in a ,n4,w4 by ,w4 direction1 about a quarter of a mile in breadth1 and principally composed of shelving sand1 through which are three main openings or channels1 that admit the passage of boats of very light draught4 ,in proceeding from the fort to the town of ,vellore1 which is charmingly situated and regularly laid out1 and is inhabited by numerous pensioners of the ,east ,india ,company1 we must cross the river ,palaar 7or ,peliar71 which1 during the rainy season1 is a headlong dangerous torrent1 while in the dry season its bed1 #ajjj feet wide1 is but a bare expanse of sand4 ,it is only by dint of strenuous exertions that the traveller is able to pass this sand waste in a waggon1 as it sinks at some points above the hubs of the wheels4 ,we had four buffalo oxen yoked1 and even then had to be propelled at certain points by the assistance of some #cj coolies or ,indian porters besides4 ,this serious inconvenience was shortly after our visit to be remedied by the erection of a splendid bridge of solid masonry1 which was to span the river by #db arches1 and will reduce the time of transit from the station from #a-a_/d hour to #bj minutes4 ,hereabouts oxen are usually employed for draught1 which are of the same humped species as those we had previously seen in ,ceylon4 ,these animals trot with uncommon swiftness1 so that the rapidity of transport may stand comparison with that where horses are employed4 ,a few miles distant from ,vellore1 and visible from the hills around1 lies ,arcot 7,arucati71 the residence of the nominal nabob of the ,carnatic1 who has long been a pensioner of the ,british4 ,the population of ,arcot are mostly ,mahometans1 who speak a dialect of ,hindustani1 and drive a very active trade4 ,at ,vellore we resided in the house of the hospitable ,lieut4-,colonel ,mc,cally1 who1 in the absence of the ,commandant1 did the honours of the ,fort to the members of the ,novara ,expedition4 ,here we experienced a most cordial reception1 and passed a few most delightful hours in the domestic circle of his amiable family4 ,in the evening we made out an excursion to an adjoining eminence1 #adjj feet above sea-level1 #cjj above ,vellore1 from which there is a commanding view over the town and neighbourhood4 ,seen from this point1 the ,fort looked charming1 presenting itself to us1 surrounded as it is by moats and watercourses1 like an island in the foreground4 ,on the top of this hill is the bungalow or country-seat of the collector of revenue1 ,w4 ,a4 ,sulivan1 ,esq41 where we revelled in the enjoyment of the exquisite natural scenery1 and partook of refreshment4 ,in the evening a number of officers1 with their wives1 met us at dinner at ,lieut4-,colonel ,mc,cally's house4 ,the gaieties were prolonged till far in the evening1 music and songs alternating with round games and dancing1 so that we had hardly composed ourselves to sleep ere we were awakened by the servants1 in order to avoid missing the train1 which leaves ,vellore for ,madras at #f4cj ,a4,m4 ,by #aa ,a4,m41 we were once more in the chief city of the ,carnatic4 ,the same afternoon the officers of the ,novara1 and the naturalists of the ,expedition1 were invited to an ,indian fte1 which ,lord ,harris gave every year at this season in his palace at ,guindy ,park1 and to which it was customary to invite the majority of the ,european residents at ,madras1 together with their families1--military1 civil service1 and mercantile community1 all being honoured with cards4 ,this festival originated in a children's entertainment1 which the governor had been in the habit of giving on the birthday of his son2 the latter had long since gone to an ,english ,university1 but the custom had survived1 and the day was equally carefully observed this year also1 having been looked forward to for months before by the white young folks of ,madras4 ,the entertainment still retains the character of a children's party1 inasmuch as on the present occasion there were assembled above #bej children of both sexes1 varying from #e to #ab years of age4 ,the total number of guests who1 in addition to these1 shared in the festivities was probably more than a thousand4 ,the fte began with the performances of some #cj ,indian jugglers and acrobats1 on a large lawn in the park4 ,these1 as may be conceived1 had been selected from among the most athletic and skilful4 ,they presented a singularly-picturesque appearance1 from the diversities of age1 agile boys1 athletic young men1 slender voluptuous-looking ,bayadres1 old grey-headed men1 and marvellous-looking old hags1 with streaming white hair1 and dark1 piercing1 gleaming eyes1 recalling in their manners and appearance our own gipsies4 ,all played at once1 and performed with the most astonishing precision a succession of breakneck feats1 that set the spectator's hair on end4 ,it was a spectacle entirely sui generis1 thoroughly ,indian in short1 to behold these wild-looking brown figures1 unawed by the presence they were in1 going through their various performances and feats of agility4 ,in front of us knelt an old man who played with a dozen knives1 which he kept circling around him with wild yells1 apparently without looking at them1 till he finally turned them in such a manner that it seemed as though the sharp points of the knives had transfixed his hand4 ,next youthful acrobats sprang through paper balloons set on fire1--girls in boys' dresses climbed up bamboo poles #ajj feet high1 in the midst of continual yells1--boys executed on the damp meadow ground the most extraordinary feats of agility and contortions of the limbs1 while one old fellow1 to the intense astonishment of the assembled children1 swallowed swords1 as also tow and other combustible matter1 whereupon flames presently seemed to issue from his month4 ,these1 indeed1 are feats of conjuring which have been performed in ,europe1 usque ad nauseam1 but here all was done with such precision and dexterity 7each man especially playing entirely con amore1 evidently not to impress the spectators1 but because he felt a pleasure in it himself71 that the whole exhibition left quite a different impression from anything of the sort elsewhere4 ,after this introductory amusement1 the children invited were regaled with a refection under an enormous tent4 ,this was for the grown-up guests another source of great amusement4 ,more than #cjj children took their seats at a long well-covered table1 while their fathers1 mothers1 governesses1 c41 stood behind the benches1 and took special care to supply the little watering mouths with a sufficient supply of the many delicacies before them4 ,a distribution of souvenirs to the various children present succeeded the repast1 the various articles being fastened to a gigantic tree under a tent4 ,the tree was profusely hung with elegant paper lamps1 and although there were no pine-branches1 only palm leaves1 the tout ensemble1 bore a strong resemblance to a genuine ,christmas tree4 ,fathers and mothers expressed to us their own feelings of pleasure at beholding the glee of their children1 and1 indeed1 seemed to think this the most entertaining part of the fte4 ,the distribution lasted a considerable time1 and many of the children affected to coquette disparagingly with the presents of their neighbours1 which these latter held fast with both hands1 till at length the whole joyous train were dismissed homewards1 thoroughly pleased with the day's proceedings4 ,after this interlude there were fireworks on the lawn for the grown-up children1 which seemed intended to serve merely as a stop-gap to while away the time between the distribution of the presents to the children and the supper1 which was laid out in the brilliantly-illuminated dining-room of the palace4 ,the fine band1 which a few days previously had so pleased us by its performances during dinner at ,guindy ,park1 drew up on the large lawn fronting the ball-room1 and during this interval played a few select pieces with admirable precision4 ,at last1 supper was announced by a flourish of trumpets4 ,despite the spacious proportions of the apartment1 the company was too numerous to admit of all sitting down at once4 ,we calculated the number of guests still remaining at at least #ejj4 ,the ladies supped first1 and afterwards the gentlemen--the ,governor1 ,lord ,harris1 doing the honours in person1 in the most courteous and kindly manner4 ,after supper the party proceeded in couples to a splendid ball-room1 where dancing speedily began1 while over their heads an omnipresent punkah1 of rich tapestry-paper1 and elegantly adorned with beautiful arabesques1 swung to and fro1 and kept the half-breathless dancers continually fanned by its currents of air4#ajf ,in spite1 however1 of this artificial ventilating machine overhead1 one must have had an extraordinary love for the dance to find pleasure in a polka or galop at a temperature of #hf of ,fahrenheit4 ,footnote #ajf3 ,in many ,english families in ,india there prevails a sort of punkah mania1 so that there is a regular hurricane incessantly blowing over their heads4 ,undoubtedly these artificial gales are particularly agreeable in apartments where1 a large number of persons being assembled1 the atmosphere becomes intolerable--as1 for instance1 courts of justice1 churches1 hotels1 and hospitals4 ,under such circumstances1 they are1 indeed1 a most valuable contrivance4 ,but their application is entirely overdone2 and there are persons who1 even while they are sleeping1 have a ,hindoo servant continually working the punkah1 which1 under such circumstances1 is usually worked from an adjoining room by means of silken cords1 so that the motive power is not visible from the apartment1 but only the effect felt4 ,strangers at first find these artificial currents very apt to superinduce headache1 until continued residence makes him regard the punkah as a most necessary article of furniture4 ,lord ,harris had taken measures for ensuring our proceeding direct from his residence in ,guindy ,park upon the favourite excursion from ,madras--that1 namely1 to the ,seven ,pagodas4 ,we had accordingly provided ourselves with only what was indispensable in the way of luggage2 and towards #a ,a4,m41 we left the ball-room1 and proceeded on our way to the renowned ,hindoo ,temples to the south of ,madras4 ,a waggon conveyed us to the ,adyar bridge1 where a ,government boat was in waiting for us1 together with some ,hindoo servants of the ,governor1 who were to be our guides to the ,seven ,pagodas4 ,one of these peons1 as they are called in ,india1 named ,iritschapa1 presented us with a document1 in which he was commissioned to place himself at our disposal during the whole period we were absent1 and anticipate all our requirements without further authorization1 to the best of his ability1 so as to ensure our comfort and assist the objects we had in view4 ,the ,government boat was supplied with everything that could minister to our comfort1 a second boat following us exclusively for the conveyance of our heavy baggage1 personal effects1 tents1 and provisions4 ,towards #b ,a4,m41 we embarked on the ,eastern ,coast ,canal1 which goes as far as ,sadras1 and by which we reached the ,seven ,pagodas1 called also ,mahamalaipuram1 the city of the ,great or ,holy ,mountain1 at #i ,a4,m4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,holy ,,mountain4 ,these singular and majestic specimens of architecture are about #c miles from ,sadras1 being situated on the coast northwards1 and about #ejj paces from the canal4 ,they consist of temples1 grottoes1 bas-reliefs1 cisterns1 stone-benches1 and thousands of sculptures in long ranges of bas-reliefs1 which afford an abundant store of antiquarian research4 ,they go by the name of the ,seven ,pagodas 7from ,baghavati--,holy ,house1 whence the ,european corruption1 ,pagoda71 from the circumstance1 that there are1 upon the very brink of the ocean1 seven temples hewn out of one piece of rock4 ,the ,brahminical legends speak of an entire city having existed here1 of which only the fragments are now washed by the sea4 ,but1 according to ,babington's and ,heber's minute researches in this neighbourhood1#ajg there seems no doubt that there never existed any large city here1 but that the whole was a mere myth of the ,brahmins1 who procured a royal gift1 an ,agrabaram in this neighbourhood1 and with subtle forethought left here a caste of stone-cutters1 who from time to time1 under the guidance of their priests1 executed these sculptures for the adornment of their sanctuary1 which are justly the objects of wonder to their descendants4 ,to this day1 even1 there dwell here certain families of stone-cutters1 who work these singular rocks as granite quarries1 and make money by the trade4 ,the ,seven ,pagodas1 specially so-called1 are monolith temples1 hewn on the spot out of massive blocks of rock4 ,the mountain itself1 a huge block of granite1 to which the entire locality owes its reputation as a site of works of art1 is covered1 behind as well as in the front slope1 with innumerable figures4 ,footnote #ajg3 ,benjamin ,guy ,babington4 ,an ,account of the ,sculptures and ,inscriptions of ,mahamalaipuram1 illustrated by ,plates ,i4-,,xviii41 in the ,transactions of the ,royal ,asiatic ,society of ,great ,britain1 ,london1 #ahai1 p4 #beh4 ,bishop ,heber's ,narrative1 ,london1 #ahbh1 ,vol4 ,,iii41 p4 #baf4 ,after our arrival1 we made a hasty circuit through the place1 so as first of all to be able to identify them1 and be in a position to recognize the various sculptures and bas-reliefs cut out in the solid granite rock4 ,the greater number of the sculptures represent either the one or the other descriptions of the ,avatars 7the incarnations or transfigurations7 of ,vishn1 to whom the larger proportion of the temples is dedicated4 ,in one of these temples1 we perceived the god ,vishn in the fifth1 or ,dwarf ,incarnation1 in the course of which he had1 under the guise of a ,brahminical dwarf1 begged of ,king ,balitscha-,kravathi--who1 by his piety1 had acquired so much power over the gods1 that they had to transfer to him the dominion of sea and land1 and had in consequence waxed arrogant--as much soil as he could traverse in three steps6 ,the wealthy ,rajah made no objection to complying with the apparently moderate request of the pigmy being before him4 ,on the opposite wall of the temple we now see1 in a large admirably executed bas-relief1 how ,vishn1 represented on this occasion with eight arms1 at once embraced heaven and earth with his left foot1 and as there was thus no more room left for the next step1 ,vishn released the haughty ,rajah from his promise1 on condition that he should descend to the infernal regions4 ,from this feat1 ,vishn bears the name of ,triwikrama and ,tripadas 7thrice-stepper74 ,in the next rock grotto we came to1 we beheld the ,life of ,krishna1 the shepherd-god1 represented1 first as tending his sheep1 surrounded by cows1 goats frisking about1 c4 ,walter ,elliot names this representation ,krischna's ,choultry1 or the abode of the priests4 ,the temple has a frontage of #ej feet1 is from #cj to #dj feet in depth1 and has about twenty figures4 ,from this spot1 our guide1 a ,brahmin1 brought us to what is called the ,ganeza ,temple1 a monolith ,pagoda4 ,when we expressed a wish to touch the face of ,ganeza 7a son of ,siva71 cut in stone and plentifully besmeared with oil and lard1 one of the ,hindoo attendants hurried forwards to prevent us from being guilty of insult to this much-beloved divinity4 ,the inscription to the right1 in front of the niche in which ,ganeza1 hewn out of a single block of granite1 is represented in a sitting posture1 consists of verses and prayers to ,siva1 written in ,sanscrit4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,god ,,ganeza4 ,we also remarked1 on our way to the village1 an ellipsoidal block of rock1 #fh feet in circumference1 by #be in height1 which1 from its very peculiar position1 seems to shift every moment1 and presents a very extraordinary appearance4 ,as we were proceeding to the beach1 we came upon the ,pagoda of ,kovulgobrom1 which is at present in use 7first constructed in the days of ,rajah ,apatsch1 #djj or #ejj years since71 situated on a large oblong plot of ground1 which is surrounded by a wall from #f to #h feet high4 ,we were not permitted to cross the threshold of the pagoda1 the door of which always stands wide open1 and the minor apartments of which1 so far as we could discern at a little distance away1 were quite empty4 ,we could just descry a few sculptures on the walls4 ,the whole village contains at present about #djj inhabitants1#ajh who reside in eighty small dwellings4 ,of these1 three1 built of bricks and with tiled roofs1 belong to the caste of ,brahmins1 thirty to the ,pariahs1 five to families occupied in fishing1 and two mere hovels of palm-wood to the ,willis1 the lowest and most wretched caste of all4 ,the families of stone-cutters reside outside the village4 ,one remarks here that the walls of the houses are hidden by heaps of cow and horse-dung1 which the inhabitants1 as in ,egypt1 use for fuel1 and which they pile up to dry against those of the walls which are most exposed to the sun4 ,the peon of the settlement1 by name ,randghajaneik1 a sort of overseer1 gave us a drawing of the various groups of houses1 their inhabitants1 and also the names of the various castes in ,tamil1 engraved as usual with an iron tool upon palm-leaves1 and very elegantly rolled up in a small envelope4 ,among the customs and fashions of the inhabitants which attracted our notice1 we were informed that they always burn their dead from four to five hours after life has departed--usually four hours and forty minutes--alleging that the released soul takes that length of time to reach heaven6 ,the bones are collected and thrown into the sea4 ,widows are no longer required1 on the death of their husbands1 to ascend the pyre with them4 ,accordingly1 the mortality upon this score is small enough in ,mahamalaipuram4 ,all seem hale and hearty1 although for the most part they live upon rice and fruits1 tasting flesh but seldom1 as it is never used by the ,brahmin caste4 ,the ,brahmins will not even eat eggs1 because they are the produce of hens2 nor drink milk because it is procured from cows6 ,the girls generally marry at thirteen4 ,they are1 however1 usually betrothed from the time they are two or three years of age1 the bridegroom-elect taking the bride-elect to reside with himself4 ,footnote #ajh3 ,of these inhabitants #ej belong to the ,brahmin caste1 #bej to the ,malabar1 ,sent1 and ,siva castes1 and #ajj are ,pariahs4 ,all the natives whom we fell in with could read and write1 but the ,sanscrit inscriptions on the rock-temples were quite unintelligible to them1 as they only spoke ,tamil1 ,telgu1 and ,malabar4 ,the greater number had their foreheads painted according to the caste they belonged to4 ,those worshipping ,siva wore1 suspended by a cord round the neck1 small silver amulets1 called ,lingams1 which have images of ,siva enclosed4 ,the adherents of ,brahma1 as already mentioned1 wear no distinguishing mark upon the forehead1 except that those that are married wear a five-ply cord 7panul71 tied obliquely across the upper part of the body4 ,one must not1 however1 attach too much faith to these varieties of external markings1 since many tattoo their foreheads with red1 or yellow1 or ashen-gray punctures1 which usually have no special signification1 but simply imply that on account of the pressure of business requiring frequent absence1 they have neither time nor opportunity to have the distinguishing insignia of their caste properly designed4 ,according to the natives1 the yellow colour is procured from the crushed1 yellow-tinted root of the ,curcuma longa1 7a species of spice71 the red from the ,cardomum 7,amomum repens71 citron-juice1 and red rice2 while the white is prepared from common chalk4 ,illustration3 ,,bivouac ,,at ,,mahamalaipuran4 ,lord ,harris had1 with true ,indian hospitality1 made the most admirable arrangements for our accommodation while at the ,seven ,pagodas4 ,when1 after our first survey of the locality1 we came down to the beach1 we found two large and two small tents ready pitched1 and a number of men collected round a fire preparing our breakfast4 ,but how great was our astonishment1 on entering the first tent1 to find it spread with carpets1 with an elegant sleeping-apartment with two large commodious bedsteads1 and fitted up with all the usual necessaries for the toilette2 while1 in the passage which ran between the inner and outer walls of the tent1 stood two immense baths ready filled with soft water to reinvigorate our exhausted frames6 ,ere we had recovered from our surprise1 we were advised of the voice of the ,government ,peon1 apprising us that breakfast was served in the second tent4 ,this was used exclusively as a dining and reception room1 and was also furnished with every conceivable appliance to promote our comfort4 ,his lordship was even so attentive as to send his own travelling canteen for our use on the excursion4 ,this tent1 likewise1 had double walls1 with a passage between2 the exterior wall being lined with blue1 by means of which the glare of the sun and of the blinding white sand was rendered less painful and more tolerable to the eye4 ,a number of coolies were employed in sprinkling water from time to time upon the fine-grained sand1 which produced a most refreshing coolness all around4 ,the ,government ,peon1 as also the chief of police of the district1 wore their best uniforms of white1 with bran new bandoliers over their shoulders1 of broad deep-red scarves1 with gold-lace edgings1 and1 in the centre1 a gilt plate1 with the words1 ,government ,peon engraved on it4 ,a number of men and children ran hither and thither1--in a word1 the whole village seemed in an uproar to see the strange gentlemen1 and supply them with flowers1 in the hope of receiving some trifling present4 ,at #ab4cj ,p4,m41 the thermometer suspended within the tent marked #hd ,fahr41 although a gentle breeze was blowing from seaward through the fragrant luxuriant grass 7,kus-kus1 or ,vetiveyr71 which hung like a curtain over both entrances4 ,it is an exceedingly happy idea to use this fragrant ,kus-kus1 7,andropogon muricatum7 in the manufacture of mats1 which are intended to be suspended in the entrance-halls of houses1 and to be sprinkled with water1 whereupon the penetrating1 hot1 parching wind is passed through the fine damp texture1 which thus at once tempers the heat1 and fills the air with perfume4 ,towards #e ,p4,m41 the heat having somewhat abated1 we strolled to the ,five ,pagodas1 distant about one ,english mile from our encampment4 ,the prevalent tree in this locality is the ,palmyra palm1 which1 though it does not boast the majestic proportions of the ,oreodoxia ,regia1 or the cocoa-nut palm1 presents1 nevertheless1 a very imposing appearance4 ,generally speaking1 however1 the district is quite bare and destitute of trees2 and1 in short1 like all the rest of this coast1 has very much the appearance of the flat coasts of ,africa4 ,of the five monolith temples1 four were dedicated to the brothers of ,vishn1 ,dharma ,rajah1 ,bimen1 ,nagulan1 and ,sawadewen1 the fifth being excavated in honour of ,dubrotis1 the consort of ,dharma ,rajah4 ,the legend relates that the four brothers lived in a state of ,polyandry1 or plurality of husbands1 and had but one wife in common1 who was a species of ,amazon4 ,all these temples are tolerably sculptured1 which1 indeed1 constitutes their chief claim to attention2 but they are far from showing the artistic finish of the bas-reliefs and sculptures1 at what is known as the ,holy ,mount4 ,rhanganatha ,swami1 for instance1 is the finest1 though not the most important of these artificial grottoes4 ,the sculptures here are incontestably the most highly-finished4 ,the upper portion1 to which access is obtained by some steps cut in the rock1 rises above the huge granite block1 known as ,jamapuram2 the lower portion is a temple hewn out of one piece of rock1 and with the most marvellously-executed allegories4 ,among the reliefs on the north wall is perceived ,donga1 ,siva's wife1 riding on a lion 7according to the natives1 on a tiger71 and bending her bow in conflict with ,mahishasura1 a giant with the head of a buffalo1 who brandishes a club4 ,according to ,elliot's interesting interpretation1 this represents the contest between the matronly ,amazon and heroine1 ,donga1 the representative of active virtue1 and the bull-headed ,mahishasura1 the personification of brute strength and animal passion4 ,over the head of either figure1 a parasol1 such as is used by the natives1 is outspread1 giving a most grotesque appearance to the group4 ,illustration3 ,,bas-,,relief ,,on ,,one ,,of ,,the ,,monolith ,,temples4 ,the relief on the southern wall represents a sleeping ,vishn 7,rhanganatha71 #i-a_/b feet high1 apparently representing the idea of the ,creation1 as the serpent1 ,sescha1 with its five heads1 encircles his head4 ,at his feet one perceives two rajahs or princes1 and one female figure1 in a praying attitude1 with uplifted hands1 only the bust being represented4 ,in one of the niches at ,swami are two busts1 life-size1 of ,siva1 and his wife ,paravathi1 the latter holding an infant at the breast1 his offspring ,supramanin4 ,above this representation1 and1 like them1 only showing from the shoulder upwards1 are represented on the right ,brahma1 on the left ,vishn1 each with four arms1 symbolical of their power and dominion4 ,the superstructure of these rock sculptures is a sort of platform of loose stones accurately fitted to each other without mortar1 so as to make an ornamental whole4 ,the interior is adorned with much more highly-finished specimens of art1 to view which1 a large number of ,hindoos1 doing penance1 annually climb1 with great difficulty1 into this part of the building1 and make their way into the unfinished interior apartments4 ,while we were giving free scope to our surprise at all we saw1 we were greatly annoyed in our contemplations by the natives1 who offered us bouquets of flowers1 wreaths1 and fruit4 ,also1 a couple of flute-players 7,pulanpolen7 who were passing1 made their appearance to give us a specimen of their musical skill4 ,one old man1 of whom we procured a curious figure of ,vishn1 neatly carved in wood1 as also several manuscripts1 remarked that there was in the neighbourhood1 written upon ,palmyra leaves1 a manuscript1 known as the ,istlam-purnam which gave the history of the ,seven ,pagodas1 written in ,tamil4 ,the late president of the ,madras ,society1 the learned ,walter ,elliot1 who formed an extensive collection of the various valuable ,hindoo manuscripts and inscriptions of ,mahamalaipuram1 and has partly published a translation of them1#aji told us afterwards1 that this renowned ,tamil ,manuscript consisted of nothing but fables1 and did not give one single reliable particular as to the history of the ,seven ,pagodas4 ,footnote #aji3 ,journal of the ,madras ,literary ,society1 #ahdf1 ,nos4 #cj and #ca4 ,in ,varaha ,swami1 one of the pagodas at present in use1 and surrounded by a modern walled cemetery1 there is visible1 on the exterior of the ,temple1 an inscription in ,tamil1 which is1 however1 utterly unintelligible to the natives4 ,this inscription1 deciphered latterly by ,babington1 refers to a donation to the pagoda by a sincere ,hindoo believer1 and gives the most complete detail1 together with signature of the donor4 ,the name ,mahamalaipur1#aaj the ,city of the ,sacred ,hill1 occurs frequently in it4 ,footnote #aaj3 ,dr4 ,elliot writes ,mamallaipuram2 the natives call the place ,mahawalipuram1 obviously a mere corruption of the customary mode of spelling4 ,in the course of conversation with some of our ,hindoo followers1 we remarked that they made no difference between a kovl or praying-house1 in which the divinities are never produced1 but are guarded under lock and key1 and a pagoda1 which is a residence of the gods1 from which they can be carried forth and afterwards brought back4 ,hence it is that a pagoda is more readily accessible than a kovl1 the sanctity of which it is forbidden him to violate4 ,in #ahde1 ,mr4 ,elliot1 by a private arrangement with the ,brahmins1 was permitted1 on payment of ,rs4 #cj 7#c71 to break away the partition which divided the inscriptions into two portions1 in order to prepare three copies1 and have them translated by three ,tamil scholars4 ,one of these translators was the learned ,tandavaraya ,mudaliar1 of ,chingleput4 ,the inscription contains the history of two donations1 on the enlargement and laying the foundation-stone of the temple1 accomplished by the ,kanattan of the village1 and1 lastly1 a gift of #ij goats by the ,siva ,brahmin ,paramesvara-,mahavara1 on the stipulation that a lamp should be kept constantly burning in the temple3 the whole dating from the year #ajgc4 ,it results from this interpretation that the inscription was put up towards the end of the #aath century1 thus supplying some clue to the age of this rock temple1 which1 according to ,mr4 ,elliot's researches1 does not exceed a thousand years4 ,illustration3 ,,entrance ,,to ,,one ,,of ,,the ,,temples4 ,to this ,vahara ,swami1 which seems to contain their whole history1 the natives wander regularly every morning1 and sometimes two or three times during the day1 to offer flowers1 cocoa-nuts1 and other fruits4 ,a flight of steps cut in the rock leads to the highest platform1 whence there is an excellent view over these monumental edifices4 ,that fancy has been called in to invest these unique unfinished sculptures with the character of pleasure-grottoes1 baths1 c41 c41 of historical personages1 is readily intelligible4 ,thus1 for example1 the guide does not fail to point out to the stranger a sort of stone cistern hewn out of the solid rock1 traditionally reported to have been once the plunge-bath of ,dubrotis4 ,this colossal basin has about #b-a_/b feet water during the rainy season1 which gradually evaporates1 or is drawn off for use4 ,the water1 tinged with the yellow colour of the soil1 leaves a mark behind on the stone sides1 which naturally becomes very visible during the dry season4 ,this the natives maintain marks the height of the water as often as ,dubrotis1 7,dharma ,rajah's consort71 bathed herself in it4 ,another similar block of gneiss was transformed into a stone couch1 and is called ,dharma ,rajah's bed1 at the upper end of which1 near the head1 a tiger is crouched to guard it4 ,this gigantic ellipsoidal block of rock1 which seems as though balanced on a sharp point1 could neither be displaced nor made to oscillate by continued leaping4 ,some masses of rock piled up above the grottoes were once ,siva's kitchen1 and so forth4 ,all these spots1 however1 have in reality not the slightest historic significance2 it is only the present generation that have tacked on to them legends1 traditions1 and interpretations1 which assuredly never were in the intention of the constructors4 ,on a slope on one side of the mountain are a number of sculptures of remarkable beauty1 representing the history of ,tapasa1 or the deep penitence of ,ardschuna4 ,on the right hand1 close to the figure of the penitent ,ardschuna1 one perceives a multitude of people1 two elephants as large as life and wonderfully finished1 a tiger1 and a figure1 half woman half serpent4 ,this relief1 one of the finest we have seen1 is a huge sculpture on the rock1 #bj feet long by #cj in height1 comprising hundreds of figures1 with an idol in the centre1 to which from all sides worshipping deities1 men1 and beasts1 bow the knee in supplicatory attitudes2 along the edge are elephants1 life size1 with their young4 ,the colour of the rock1 somewhat resembling that of the animal1 tends still more to deceive the eye1 and make the beholder doubt whether he is looking upon sculptures or upon living elephants4 ,elliot and others who have described these rock temples1 assign to them1 as already mentioned1 a comparatively small antiquity4 ,they are representations borrowed from the poem of ,mahabharata1 in the ,hindoo mythology4 ,the five roundish temples to the south of the village are beyond all question the oldest of these monuments4 ,they are pagodas that have never been completed2 solid1 and here and there showing marks of work1 but only adorned externally1 the interiors being masses of unhewn granite2 each of these temples is #cj feet in length by #bj in breadth and height4 ,thus far1 the inscriptions have been ascertained to be in threefold characters1 of which two are as yet undecipherable4 ,babington was the first to attempt to decipher them1 or at all events to find the key by which to decipher them4 ,the most important has been copied and interpreted4 ,but neither the inscriptions nor the various representations give the slightest historical clue as to the object of these monuments4 ,taylor's researches seem to establish the fact1 that in the #agth century this district was inhabited by the ,corumbas1 a half-civilized race of the ,dschaina religion4 ,about this period1 or a little later1 in the reign of ,abondai1 one of the princes1 whose capitals were ,conjeveran and ,tripetty1 the ,brahmins were introduced to this neighbourhood4 ,the extent of these works1 however1 their nature1 and the immense expense incurred1 all point to a long-continued influence of the ,brahmins4 ,most of these temples seem to have been first erected in the #agth century1 under ,prince ,sinhamanayadu1 and ,elliot assigns to several even a much later date4 ,as for the report of a smaller pagoda1 of which only an old pyramidal pagoda-stone is visible on the very edge of the sea1 peering up from amid the furious foaming surf1 it seems to be altogether a myth1 so that such enquirers as ,ellis1 ,mackenzie1 and ,heber1 making allowance for what ,hindoo traditions are known to be1 will no longer take the trouble of searching for any traces of the sunk pagoda1 or of seeking to recover the ruins of the submerged city4 ,several writers1 indeed1 are of opinion1 that the sea on the ,cormandel coast is retiring2 but this appears to be a mistake1 for here the sea seems encroaching rapidly1 as is the case at ,fort ,st4 ,george1 which #hj years ago was at some distance from the sea-shore1 whereas its walls are at present washed by the tremendous surf4 ,but the inroads of the sea could hardly have been so sudden and extensive as to have swallowed up an entire city1 without leaving any traces4 ,not one of the natives to whom we spoke in the place could say for certain1 that the sea had materially gained upon the land within the memory of man4 ,nowhere are there any traces visible of the ruins of a city4 ,one can safely assert that there never existed such a city at ,mahamalaipuram1 but that it has always been a mere abode of priests1 with temples1 sanctuaries1 c41 without any more extensive settlement1 similar to ,copan1 ,quirigua1 or ,peten1 in ,central ,america1 but altogether larger and more artistic1 and evidencing a far higher culture on the part of the artist4 ,the supposed antiquity of the sculptures at ,mahamalaipuram is too low1 to admit of our supposing that since their erection the greater part had been swallowed up in the sea4 ,none of the sculptures that we saw belonged to any period 7before the flood extended so far71 whereas they are all susceptible of explanation out of the modern ,hindoo mythology1 with the aid of the ,epic poems of ,mahabharata1 all referring to ,vishn and his world of deities4 ,while some of the ,novara expedition were visiting ,mahamalaipuram1 others made out a trip to the ,pulicat ,lake1 near the shore1 northwards from ,madras4 ,about #dj or #ej miles on the road thither1 the ,neilgherries 7or ,blue ,hills71 with their jagged outline1 came into view on the gray horizon to the ,n4,w41 the height of which may be about #a1ejj to #bjjj feet4 ,a narrow bulwark or quay of unequal breadth1 varying from #bj feet to #e miles1 separates this salt lake from the ocean1 the fierce surf of which1 at some narrow places1 actually breaks over1 and mingles its waters4 ,the lake varies in breadth1 from #e to #aj miles1 and is about #fj to #gj miles long4 ,the level of its bed is so remarkably regular1 never exceeding from #c to #e feet1 that when the wind fails1 the boats that navigate the lake can be pushed along with poles1 and one everywhere sees the naked inhabitants of the coast standing in the very middle of the water1 with their landing or drag-nets1 or busily occupied with rod and line6 ,being but a few hours distant from ,madras1 the lake is connected with the city by an artificial canal1 along both sides of which are a number of outlets1 carefully faced with masonry1 so as to convert the adjoining land into lagoons1 in which during the rainy seasons the strongly brackish water enters1 and is used to make sea-salt4 ,in the canal there is considerable trade1 as well by fishing-boats1 as by those laden with wood and fruit1 which they convey to the city for disposal4 ,most especially remarkable is the enormous number of fen-birds1 which frequent its shores and all around it4 ,at several places where the shores1 for a width of about a mile1 are mere swamps with barely a foot of water1 they are literally covered with myriads of curlews1 which fly about in flights of incredible numbers1 and stretch out like clouds4 ,long rows of flamingoes stand1 their bodies half bent to the earth1 seeking their food in the mud2 far as the eye can reach1 one saw whole ranks of these birds blending with storks1 perched upon scattered stumps2 while in the water itself1 vast flocks of sea-mews swam about1 and the sea-swallows1 in pursuit of their prey1 flew to and fro in the air4 ,as evening came on1 the naturalists of the ,novara were sailing as though in a sea of fire4 ,hundreds of fish1 as they sprang out of the water1 left a fiery wake behind them1 like a rocket1 while a flame-coloured ever-widening circle marked the spot at which they struck the water again4 ,hundreds of various notes of birds1 above1 near1 and round the boat1 united with the singular melancholy cry of the jackal1 which resounded from the shore1 while overhead flights of birds flew restlessly about in the air1 whirring in the ear like the rustling of disembodied spirits4 ,from the lake1 a short excursion was made to one of the artificial canals1 which unite this basin of water at various points and in different directions with the surrounding country1 so as to get to the ,strihoricotta ,forest1 which supplies ,madras with fuel4 ,this consists of a sort of underwood or brush1 which grows again within the extraordinary short space of ten to twelve years4 ,sisyphus vulgaris 7,rhamnea71 ,gardenia ,ficus1 tamarinds1 and several species of ,mimosa1 form the principal part of the forest1 which is thickly grown with immense quantities of climbers4 ,the wood is cut by the natives1 who have constructed huts in the jungle1 into pieces of about #b feet in length1 which are transported in ox-carts to the shore1 whence they are forwarded by boat to ,madras4 ,when the members of the ,novara ,expedition had returned1 greatly pleased1 from their various excursions1 the ,madras ,club gave a grand banquet in honour of the captain and staff1 to which the lite of ,madras society were invited4 ,immediately on our arrival the managing committee of the club had the courtesy to place the officers and scientific members of the ,expedition upon the free list of the club during the ship's stay4 ,the ,madras ,club-house1 though not so luxurious or magnificent as the ,clubs of ,london1 fairly surpasses them in extent and commodiousness4 ,it is1 in fact1 a small portion of the city in itself1 in which one finds assembled all that can conduce to a comfortable1 agreeable mode of existence2 parlours1 with wide arm-chairs and ,american rocking-chairs2 reading-rooms1 in which are all the best journals and an excellent assortment of the best and newest literature2 dining apartments1 in which one can dine in either the ,english or ,french style2 billiard-rooms1 shower and plunge-baths1 and a large swimming-bath4 ,members from the country1 or strangers1 can be accommodated with lodging as well4 ,at the splendid banquet in honour of the ,expedition1 at which above #bjj persons sat down1 the chair was taken by the ,chief ,justice ,sir ,christopher ,rawlinson--next to the ,governor1 the most influential person in the community4 ,the extremely friendly disposition manifested on that occasion found its expression in toasts on all sides1 which in few1 but appropriate words1 welcomed the foreign guests2 while1 on the other side1 they gave unmistakable evidence of the admiration and sympathy which the voyagers by the ,novara carried away with them from the hospitable shores of ,madras4#aaa ,footnote #aaa3 ,after the customary official toasts had been proposed by the chairman1 and thanks returned by the ,commander-in-chief of the ,expedition1 the health was also proposed of the scientific staff1 on which occasion one of the naturalists present expressed his thanks for this honour1 in his name and that of his colleagues1 in the following speech1 which may be permitted to find a place here1 as best showing with what impression the members of the ,expedition left ,madras4 ,gentlemen1--,it is not without some feeling of anxiety that ,i am rising1 for ,i have so many things to say1 and yet it is but the thousandth part of what ,i1 of what my fellow travellers all feel6 ,surely1 it is always flattering to a man to be distinguished by his fellow-men2 but such a distinction becomes the more honouring if those who concur to distinguish him are--as this is the case with you--a most estimable part of the ,british nation6 ,of a nation1 which has done more than any other on the globe for the propagation of ,christianity1 the diffusion of knowledge1 the advancement of science1 for the progress of civilization1 industry1 and commerce4 ,i do not intend1 gentlemen1 to return with the shiny currency of flattery the many proofs of attention and kindness which all the members of the ,expedition have witnessed during our short1 but most pleasant1 ever-remembered stay in this city1 the birth-place of hospitality6 ,what ,i say is but truth6 ,every page in modern history certifies my words6 ,which nation has done more for the propagation of ,christianity among savage tribes all over the world8 ,some years ago1 when ,i was rambling in ,british ,america1 and along the north shores of ,lake ,superior1 ,i often found villages of #cjj or #djj ,indians1 and but one single white man amongst them4 ,and who was that white man1 who voluntarily shared their misery1 their wants1 and their privations8 ,he was an ,english missionary6 ,and again6 ,which nation has made greater and more serious efforts to suppress the slave trade1 and to abolish slavery in all countries where it still exists1 a shame to the nineteenth century8--,slavery6 that hideous leprosy on the limb of the gigantic body1 called the ,united ,states6 ,who is even now anxiously engaged to open1 with the heartblood of its noblest sons1 a vast empire--the ,chinese kingdom--to civilization1 to ,christianity1 to the traffic of all seafaring nations of the globe6 ,and is not this very city1 ,madras1 where we have been so heartily welcomed1 the best proof of the energy and perseverance of the political and commercial greatness of the ,british nation8 ,nothing but ,english steadiness and ,english perseverance could succeed to build on this barren1 inhospitable1 and even most perilous coast1 a vast1 flourishing city1 rivalling in size and the number of inhabitants the largest capitals in ,europe6 ,and what is still more pleasing and satisfactory1 is the intellectual and physical condition in which one finds the ,indians1 especially if compared with the condition of the natives in ,north and ,central ,america1 c4 ,there he meets a population1 rapidly dying away1 in proportion as the axe of civilization is resounding from the backwoods4 ,one may almost determinate the day when the last of the red men will have disappeared from the ,north ,american ,continent1 the land of his ancestors6 ,here in ,india1 on the contrary1 the traveller meets with a thriving1 industrious population4 ,who can see ,hindoos1 ,malabar1 ,sentus1 c41 occupy most important employments at the observatory1 at the telegraph offices1 at the railroad1 in any branch almost of the public service1 and still believe the ,hindoo race like the ,indians of ,north ,america to be a doomed people--to be a people that has no future8 ,no1 it ,,has a future1 and1 under the wise and humane government of the ,british ,crown1 ,i am sure the coloured race of ,india will even have a most glorious future6 ,these are the impressions and feelings1 gentlemen1 with which we part from ,madras1 with which ,i and my scientific colleagues bid you all a most sincere and heartfelt farewell4 ,as a number of our new-found friends expressed a wish1 notwithstanding the difficulties of getting out to1 and back from the roads1 to visit our ship1 the commodore invited some forty guests1 shortly before our departure1 to a tiffin on board4 ,although the frigate rolled pretty heavily1 yet we1 nevertheless1 had the pleasure of the company of some twenty gentlemen and ten ladies4 ,after tiffin1 which was served on the poop1 under a tent improvised with flags for the occasion1 all felt sufficiently comfortable to try a dance on the quarter-deck1 our band of music being called into requisition for quadrilles1 polkas1 and waltzes2 and1 indeed1 our guests paid so little attention to the approach of night1 that their return was postponed till it was absolutely dark1 of which opportunity we gladly availed ourselves to light our pleasant guests homewards with ,bengal lights4 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,,vii4--,,track ,,from ,,madras ,,to ,,the ,,nicobar ,,islands4 ,at length1 on #ajth ,february1 shortly after noon1 we set sail4 ,as the frigate was perceived1 from ,fort ,george to weigh anchor1 a thundering salute was fired of #ba guns--an extraordinary honour and mark of attention1 to which we responded by a similar salute4 ,in consequence of calms and light winds1 we were #dh hours ere losing sight of land2 and it was not till the #abth ,february we could proceed on our voyage4 ,for several evenings after1 that magnificent1 and as yet unexplained1 phenomenon1 the ,zodiacal light1 which is conjectured by the greatest physicist of our age1 to be the beams radiated from a vapour-like1 flattened ring1 revolving in the space between the orbits of ,mercury and ,venus1 was visible with much regularity4 ,what was afterwards observed1 however1 of this remarkable zone of light1 during the course of our voyage1 will be found detailed in the meteorological portion of the scientific volumes4 ,unbroken fine weather accompanied us during our entire voyage to the ,nicobar ,islands1 our next station4 ,but although1 as was rendered necessary by the climate so near the ,equator1 we were clothed entirely in summer apparel1 and there was nothing to remind us of its being winter and carnival at home1 our sailors did not let ,shrove ,tuesday pass over without celebrating that day1 to be marked with a white stone1 by masking and dancing according to ancient custom4 ,jack has an especially good memory for the return of such junketings1 and is by no means prone to letting the sensible vicinity of the ,equator put him out of his reckoning2 so he danced near the line also1 not because he had any pleasure therein1 but because it has always been his custom to do so at carnival-time6 ,the state of health of the ship's company was excellent1 there being but eight on the sick list1 of whom only two were seriously ill4 ,on the #bbnd ,february towards #aj ,a4,m4 the ,island of ,kar-,nicobar hove in sight1 and towards afternoon we found ourselves but a few miles distant4 ,the land seemed for the most part level1 only a low eminence thickly covered with frost rising towards the centre4 ,the coast was overgrown with cocoa-nut-palm4 ,in the ,n4,w4 and ,s4,e4 we could see three ,malay boats at anchor4 ,on the beach were some huts of beehive-like shape1 in and out of which naked brown figures were seen moving2 while1 as night fell1 numerous lights glimmered from the shore4 ,the following morning1 ,tuesday #bcrd ,february1 #aheh1 we anchored off the ,n4,w4 side of the island1 in #ad-a_/b fathoms coral sand1 about #b miles distant from the shore1 and just between the two villages of ,mosse and ,sui1 each consisting of a few huts4 ,one can approach within #c or #d cable-lengths of the shore1 where there are still #aj fathoms1 with clay bottom4 ,several natives1 some naked1 some with their bodies covered in the most ludicrous fashion with cast-off ,european clothes1 approached the frigate while she was being secured1 in small but elegant canoes1 and called out anxiously when within hailing distance1 in an inquisitive tone and a broken ,english1 ,no fear8 good friend8 which we interpreted into an inquiry as to whether they had anything to fear1 and whether we were disposed to be friendly4 ,when1 however1 we did not immediately throw them a rope to make fast their little canoes1 and they got sight of our numerous guns1 they speedily turned tail and hurried away4 ,illustration3 ,,arrival ,,at ,,kar-,,nicobar4 ,,end ,,of ,,vol4 ,i4 ,,appendix ,a4 ,,list ,,of ,,the ,,officers ,,of ,,the ,,novara ,,expedition4 ,commodore--,b4 v4 ,wllerstorf-,urbair1 ,commander-in-,chief4 ,captain--,frederick ,baron ,pck4 ,first ,lieutenant--,bela ,saal de ,gyula4 ,lieutenants--,maurice ,monfroni de ,montfort4 ,alexander ,count ,kielmansegge4 ,william ,lund4 ,robert ,mller4 ,ernest ,jacoby4 ,eugen ,kronowetter4 ,gustavus ,battlogg4 ,purser--,antonio ,basso4 ,principal ,surgeon--,dr4 ,francis ,seligmann4 ,assistant ,surgeons--,dr4 ,av ,robert ,lallemant4 ,dr4 ,edward ,schwarz4 ,charles ,ruziczka4 ,chaplain--,edward de ,marocchini4 ,midshipmen--,henry ,fayenz4 ,joseph ,natty4 ,gustavus v4 ,semsey4 ,richard ,baron ,walterskirchen4 ,louis ,meder4 ,alexander ,kalmar4 ,augustus ,baron ,skribanek4 ,andreas ,count ,borelli4 ,francis ,baron ,cordon4 ,frederick ,baron ,haan4 ,edward ,latzina4 ,michal de ,mariassi4 ,eugen ,prince ,wrede4 ,joseph ,berthold4 ,engineer--,wenceslas ,lehmann4 ,naturalists4 ,geology--,dr4 ,ferdinand ,hochstetter4 ,botany--,dr4 ,edward ,schwarz4 ,mr4 ,anthony ,tellinek1 horticulturist4 ,zoology--,mr4 ,george ,frauenfeld4 ,mr4 ,john ,zelebor4 ,ethnography--,dr4 ,charles ,scherzer4 ,artist--,mr4 ,joseph ,selleny4 ,the entire crew1 including sailors1 marines1 gunners1 servants1 and the ship's band1 amounted to #ceb men4 ,,appendix ,b4 ,list of the various ,provisions and ,stores furnished to the ,frigate ,novara before her departure from ,trieste4 ,coals--#bc tons 7at #bfj pounds daily consumption7 for #aih days ,water--#hf tons 7the daily consumption was furnished by the distilling apparatus7 ,biscuit--#ej1ife pounds 7,vienna weight7 #ade ,wine--7light red ,istrian wine71 #hggg mass 7 #ceaj gallons7 #ej ,rum--#giac mass 7 #cafe gallons7 #bbf ,salt ,beef--#ag1hjj pounds for #aje days ,meat ,preserved ,meat 7in tins7 #abb 7boned7 #bfd ,pork--#egfj pounds weight #hg _/ ,rice--#fhej pounds #gg 7for ,essence--#cahd pounds #eh _/ ,soup7 #ace ,mlanges d',equipage1 #dj1jjj rations #aad days ,sour-crout1 #af1jjj rations #df ,vege- ,cabbage1 #af1jjj rations #df tables #bih ,potatoes1 #cb1jjj rations #ib _/ ,cocoa--#aj1bij pounds 7,vienna weight7 #faj ,sugar--#cdid #aef ,salt--#ajjj #ajj ,vinegar--#hca mass 7 #ccb-a_/e gallons7 #ie ,,appendix ,c4 ,,summary ,,of ,,expenditure ,,during ,,the ,,voyage ,,of ,,the ,,austrian ,,imperial ,,frigate ,,novara4 ,,key3 ,a - ,pay of ,commodore1 in ,austrian currency4 ,b - ,pay of ,staff4 ,c - ,pay of ,naturalists1 and incidental ,expenses of this department4 ,d - ,pay of ,crew1 including extras4 ,e - ,victuals for ,crew and ,hospital 7,sick74 ,f - ,for ,sundries1 ,repairs1 and ,ship's ,material4 ,g - ,purchase of ,books1 ,instruments1 and ,medicines4 ,h - ,pilots and ,tug ,steamers4 ,i - ,pay of ,servants1 including extras4 ,j - ,boat-hire1 ,postages1 ,travelling ,expenses of the ,staff1 c4 ,k - ,totals4 ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- ,period of ,expenditure4 ,a ,b ,c ,d ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- ,florins4 ,florins4 ,florins4 ,florins4 ,kr4 ,kr4 ,kr4 ,kr4 ,april to ,june1 #aheg #b1aab 44 #e1dac #ea #a1gdd #ec #g1ebb #eb ,,iii4 ,quarter #b1cbg #aj #h1bad #aj #c1cjb #dj #aj1efb #cg ,,iv4 ditto #c1bfa #bj #i1fjd #ej #d1haf #eg #aj1efj #ej ,i4 ditto #aheh #c1aah 44 #i1cgg 44 #d1jgc 44 #aj1eeg #di ,,ii4 ditto #c1bab 44 #aj1edb #cj #d1ceh #e #aj1gee #ci ,,iii4 ditto #e1ajb #cj #i1fch #cj #e1dba #ag #aj1bde #bd ,,iv4 ditto #b1bag #aj #f1ica #ej #e1bgb #ef #aj1jbj #f ,i4 ditto #ahei #d1iad #bj #af1ieh #bj #i1egh #bc #aj1hdj #dc ,,ii4 ditto #c1bbg #af #aa1jjh 44 #d1jij #bj #aa1aea #ef ,,iii4 ditto #c1aag #g #aj1iaa #da #c1heg #ad #aa1jji #bi ,,iv4 ditto 7not full7 #ihd #ah #b1efd #e #a1iij #e #c1cad #af ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- ,grand ,total #cc1eic #aaaja1afd #dgdh1eje #ejajf1eda #da ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- ---------------------------------------- -------------------- ,period of ,expenditure4 ,e ,f ,g ,h ---------------------------------------- -------------------- ,florins4 ,florins4,florins4,florins4 ,kr4 ,kr4 ,kr4 ,kr4 ,april to ,june1 #aheg #acc #ee #adf #g #cg #aj 444 44 ,,iii4 ,quarter #b1caf #dj #cfb #dg #af #bh #bh 44 ,,iv4 ditto #bg1cdd #bi #b1hci #c #fdd #di #cef #bf ,i4 ditto #aheh #b1jii #ci #fdf #aj #cf #cd #he #ec ,,ii4 ditto #ba1ead #cg #b1agj #ec #cdi #ed 444 44 ,,iii4 ditto #ag1ddc #cb #e1ibe #dh #cch #ad #fde #ej ,,iv4 ditto #e1gfb #cj 444 44 #bab #cdb1aig #ee ,i4 ditto #ahei #cj1gae #agah1ahe #cdb1bhf #dj #fdg #ed ,,ii4 ditto #c1agi #bd #gfg #d #bc #b #id #bc ,,iii4 ditto #aa1ddd 44 #g1eea #ae #cjf #bd 444 44 ,,iv4 ditto 7not full7 #b1afc #dj 444 44 #cc #cj 444 44 ---------------------------------------- -------------------- ,grand ,total #abd1jji #dcch1eid #dad1bhe #aid1jef #ba ---------------------------------------- -------------------- ---------------------------------------- --------- ,period of ,expenditure4 ,i ,j ,k ---------------------------------------- --------- ,florins4 ,florins4 ,florins4 ,kr4 ,kr4 ,kr4 ,april to ,june1 #aheg #haa #cd #e1bgg #ei #bc1bjj #ba ,,iii4 ,quarter #cfc #ec #ahf #ah #bg1fhj #dc ,,iv4 ditto #dce #i #b1jbg #ca #fa1hia #bd ,i4 ditto #aheh #cig #bh #if #bb #cj1dhg #ee ,,ii4 ditto #a1add #dc #had #be #ed1gfd #df ,,iii4 ditto #eff #h #a1cea #df #ef1fgh #ei ,,iv4 ditto #bi #bd #fea #ei #cc1bif #bd ,i4 ditto #ahei #a1eib #cj #a1beh #ea #if1igh #cb ,,ii4 ditto #bjj #e #a1beh #cb #ce1jjj #b ,,iii4 ditto #a1iaj 44 #gic 44 #ej1ijj #aj ,,iv4 ditto 7not full7 #bfi #df #e 44 #aa1cbd #dj ---------------------------------------- --------- ,grand ,total #g1gbj #djac1gba #dcdhb1aic #ef ---------------------------------------- --------- ,thus the ,expenditure1 during the voyage1 amounting to #dhc1aic florins #ef kreuzer1 ,austrian currency1 which1 calculated at the rate of #aj florins to a pound sterling at par1 is equal to about #dh1bai sterling4 ,to this sum must be added the outfit and armament of the frigate for the purposes of the voyage1 amounting to about #fjjj sterling1 and the expenses for four months' provisions1 taken in at ,trieste before our departure1 and estimated at about #dejj sterling1 so that the entire ,expenditure of the ,expedition1 from the time of starting till its return1 amounted to about #eh1jjj sterling4 ,,london3 ,,printed ,,by ,,woodfall ,,and ,,kinder1 ,,angel ,,court1 ,,skinner ,,street4 99 99 99 99 99 #ff1 ,brook ,street1 ,hanover ,square1 ,w4 ,,messrs4 ,,saunders1 ,,otley1 ,,co4',s ,,literary ,,announcements4 ,,the ,,voyage ,,of ,,the ,,novara ,,round ,,the ,,world4 ,the ,circumnavigation of the ,globe1 by the ,austrian ,frigate ,novara4 ,english ,edition4 ,containing an ,unpublished ,letter from ,baron ,humboldt4 ,with numerous wood engravings4 ,dedicated1 by special permission1 to ,sir ,roderick ,murchison4 #c vols41 #hvo4 ,,the ,,marquis ,,of ,,dalhousie',s ,,administration of ,,british ,,india4 ,by ,edwin ,arnold1 ,m4,a41 of ,university ,college1 ,oxford4 ,,the ,,political ,,life of the ,,earl of ,,derby4 ,,the ,,life of the ,,right ,,hon4 ,,benjamin ,,disraeli1 ,m4,p4 ,,the ,,speeches ,,and ,,addresses of the ,,lord ,,bishop of ,,oxford from #ahda to the ,present ,time4 ,edited by the ,author4 #a vol41 #hvo4 ,,the ,,lives of the ,,speakers of the ,,house of ,,commons4 ,by ,william ,nathaniel ,massey1 ,esq41 ,m4,p41 author of ,the ,history of ,england1 and ,chairman of ,ways and ,means4 ,,the ,,latitudinarians4 ,a ,chapter of ,church ,history1 from the ,accession of ,archbishop ,tillotson in #afia1 to the ,death of ,archdeacon ,blackburne1 in #aghg4 ,by ,edward ,churton1 ,m4,a41 ,archdeacon of ,cleveland4 ,,the ,,life ,,of ,,the ,,right ,,hon4 ,w4 ,e4 ,,gladstone1 ,m4,p4 #a vol41 #hvo4 ,,ecclesia ,,restituta4 ,by ,f4 ,c4 ,massingberd1 ,m4,a41 ,prebendary of ,lincoln and ,rector of ,ormsby4 ,,seven ,,answers to the ',,essays and ,,reviews1' ,,by ,,seven ,,writers ,,in ,,seven ,,separate ,,essays4 ,,the ,,history ,,of ,,the ,,conservative ,,party1 from the ,defection of ,sir ,robert ,peel to the ,present ,time4 #a vol41 #hvo4 ,,the ,,history ,,of ,,the ,,church ,,of ,,england1 from the ,death of ,elizabeth to the ,present ,time4 ,by the ,rev4 ,geo4 ,g4 ,perry1 ,m4,a41 ,rector of ,waddington1 late ,fellow and ,tutor of ,lincoln ,college1 ,oxford4 #c vols41 #hvo4 ,,church ,,rate ,a ,,national ,,trust4 ,by the ,venerable ,archdeacon ,denison4 #a vol41 #hvo1 #ajs4 #f;d4 ,,the ,,churches ,,of ,,the ,,east4 ,by the ,rev4 ,george ,williams1 ,b4,d41 ,senior ,fellow of ,king's ,college1 ,cambridge4 #a vol41 #hvo4 ,,the ,,american ,,church and the ,,american ,,union4 ,by ,henry ,caswall1 ,d4,d41 of ,trinity ,college1 ,connecticut1 and ,prebendary of ,sarum4 #a v41 post #hvo4 ,,philosophy2 or1 ,,the ,,science of ,,truth1 being a ,treatise on ,first ,principles1 ,mental1 ,physical1 and ,verbal4 ,by ,james ,haig1 ,esq41 ,m4,a41 of ,lincoln's ,inn4 ,,recollections ,,of ,,general ,,garibaldi2 or1 ,,travels ,,from ,,rome ,,to ,,lucerne1 comprising a ,visit to the ,mediterranean ,islands of ,la ,madalena and ,caprera1 and the ,home of ,general ,garibaldi4 #a vol4 #ajs4 #f;d4 ,,the ,,travels ,,and ,,adventures ,,of ,,dr4 ,,wolff1 the ,bokhara ,missionary4 #b;d4 edition1 #b vols4 #hvo4 #cfs4 ,,an ,,autumn ,,tour ,,in ,,spain4 ,by the ,rev4 ,r4 ,,roberts1 ,b4,a41 of ,trinity ,college1 ,cambridge1 and ,vicar of ,milton ,abbas4 ,with numerous ,engravings4 #bas4 ,,historical ,,memoirs ,,of ,,the ,,successors ,,of ,,st4 ,,patrick ,,and ,,archbishops ,,of ,,armagh4 ,by ,james ,henthorne ,todd1 ,d4,d41 ,f4,s4,a41 ,president of the ,royal ,irish ,academy1 ,treasurer of ,st4 ,patrick's ,cathedral1 ,regius ,professor of ,hebrew in the ,university1 and ,senior ,fellow of ,trinity ,college1 ,dublin4 #b vols41 #hvo4 ,,the ,,life ,,of ,,george ,,fox1 ,the ,founder of the ,quakers4 ,from numerous original sources4 #ajs4 #f;d4 ,,the ,,private ,,journal ,,of ,,the ,,marquess ,,of ,,hastings1 ,governor-,general and ,commander-in-,chief in ,india4 ,edited by his ,daughter1 ,,sophia1 the ,marchioness of ,bute4 ,second ,edition1 #b vols4 post #hvo1 with ,map and ,index4 #bas4 ,,napoleon ,,the ,,third ,,on ,,england4 ,selections from his own writings4 ,translated by ,j4 ,h4 ,,simpson4 #es4 ,,the ,,hunting ,,grounds ,,of ,,the ,,old ,,world4 ,by ,h4 ,a4 ,l4 7the ,old ,shekarry74 ,second ,edition4 #bas4 ,,highlands ,,and ,,highlanders2 ,as they were and as they are4 ,by ,,william ,,grant ,,stewart4 ,first and ,second series1 price #es4 each2 extra bound1 #fs4 #f;d4 ,,the ,,englishman ,,in ,,china4 ,with numerous ,woodcuts4 #ajs4 #f;d4 ,,lectures ,,on ,,the ,,epistle ,,to ,,the ,,ephesians4 ,by the ,rev4 ,r4 ,j4 ,m',,ghee4 ,second ,edition4 #b vols1 ,reduced price1 #aes4 ,,pre-,,adamite ,,man2 or1 ,,the ,,story ,,of ,,our ,,old ,,planet ,,and ,,its ,,inhabitants1 ,,told ,,by ,,scripture ,,and ,,science4 ,beautifully ,illustrated by ,hervieu1 ,dalziel ,brothers1 c4 #a vol1 post #hvo1 #ajs4 #f;d4 ,,louis ,,charles ,,de ,,bourbon3 ,,the ,,prisoner ,,of ,,the ,,temple4 #cs4 ,a ,,handy-,,book ,,for ,,rifle ,,volunteers4 ,with #ad ,coloured ,plates and ,diagrams4 ,by ,captain ,w4 ,g4 ,hartley1 author of ,a ,new ,system of ,drill4 #gs4 #f;d4 ,,recollections of a ,,winter ,,campaign ,,in ,,india1 in #aheg-eh4 ,by ,,captain ,,oliver ,j4 ,,jones1 ,r4,n4 ,with numerous illustrations drawn on stone by ,day1 from the ,author's ,sketches4 ,in #a vol4 royal #hvo1 #afs4 ,,two ,,years ,,in ,,syria4 ,by ,t4 ,,lewis ,,farley1 ,esq41 ,late ,chief ,accountant of the ,ottoman ,bank1 ,beyrout4 #abs4 ,second ,edition4 ,,diary ,,of ,,travels ,,in ,,three ,,quarters ,,of ,,the ,,globe4 ,by an ,,australian ,,settler4 #b vols1 post #hvo1 #bas4 ,,recollections of the ,,court of ,,naples in ,,our ,,own ,,times4 ,,mount ,,lebanon ,,and ,,its ,,inhabitants3 ,a ,ten ,years' ,residence from #ahdb to #aheb4 ,by ,colonel ,,churchill1 ,staff ,officer in the ,british ,expedition to ,syria4 ,second ,edition4 #c vols1 #hvo1 #aes4 ,,from ,,southampton ,,to ,,calcutta4 ,sketches of ,anglo-,indian ,life4 #ajs4 #f;d4 ,,the ,,tablette ,,booke of ,,ladye ,,mary ,,keyes1 ,,owne ,,sister ,,to ,,the ,,misfortunate ,,ladye ,,jane ,,dudlie4 ,post #hvo1 #ajs4 #f;d4 ,,travel and ,,recollections of ,,travel4 ,by ,dr4 ,,john ,,shaw4 #a vol1 post #hvo1 #gs4 #f;d4 ,,letters ,,on ,,india4 ,by ,,edward ,,sullivan1 ,esq41 ,author of ',rambles in ,north and ,south ,america2' ',the ,bungalow and the ,tent2' ',from ,boulogne to ,babel ,mandeb2' ',a ,trip to the ,trenches2' c4 #a vol4 #gs4 ,,campaigning ,,in ,,kaffirland2 or1 ,,scenes ,,and ,,adventures ,,in ,,the ,,kaffir ,,war ,,of #ahea-eb4 ,by ,captain ,w4 ,r4 ,,king4 ,second ,edition4 #a vol4 #hvo1 #ads4 ,,the ,,religious ,,tendencies ,,of ,,the ,,age4 #fs4 #f;d4 ,,adventures ,,of ,a ,,gentleman ,,in ,,search ,,of ,a ,,horse4 ,by ,,sir ,,george ,,stephen4 ,with illustrations by ,cruikshank4 ,new and cheaper ,edition1 #es4 ,,the ,,language ,,of ,,flowers1 ,elegant ,gift ,book for the ,season4 ,beautifully bound in green watered silk1 with coloured plates4 ,containing the ,art of ,conveying ,sentiments of ,esteem and ,affection4 ,eleventh edition1 dedicated1 by permission1 to the late ,duchess of ,kent4 #ajs4 #f;d4 ,,the ,,management ,,of ,,bees2 ,with a description of the ,ladies' ,safety ,hive4 ,by ,,samuel ,,bagster1 ,jun4 #a vol41 illustrated4 #gs4 ,,the ,,handbook ,,of ,,turning1 ,with numerous plates4 ,a complete and ,practical ,guide to the ,beautiful ,science of ,turning in all its ,branches4 #a vol4 #gs4 #f;d4 ,,texts ,,for ,,talkers4 ,by ,,frank ,,fowler4 #cs4 #f;d4 ,,the ,,summer ,,tour of an ,,invalid4 #es4 #f;d4 ,,army ,,misrule3 ,,barrack ,,thoughts4 ,by a ,,common ,,soldier4 #cs4 ,fiction4 ,,why ,,paul ,,ferroll ,,killed ,,his ,,wife4 ,by the ,author of ,paul ,ferroll4 ,third ,edition4 #ajs4 #f;d4 ,,our ,,new ,,rector4 ,edited by the ,author of ',mr4 ,verdant ,green4' #ajs4 #f;d4 ,,the ,,rector',s ,,daughters4 ,a ,tale of ,clerical ,life4 #ajs4 #f;d4 ,,sweethearts ,,and ,,wives4 ,a ,novel4 ,by ,,marguerite ,a4 ,,power4 #c vols41 #cas4 #f;d4 ,,an ,m4,p4 ,,in ,,search ,,of ,a ,,creed4 ,a ,novel4 #ajs4 #f;d4 ,,rotten ,,row4 ,a ,novel4 #b vols41 #bas4 ,,crispin ,,ken4 ,by the ,author of ',miriam ,may4' ,dedicated1 by special permission1 to the ,right ,hon4 ,sir ,e4 ,b4 ,lytton1 ,bart41 ,m4,p4 #b vols41 #bas4 ,,who ,,shall ,,be ,,duchess8 or1 ,,the ,,new ,,lord ,,of ,,burleigh4 ,a ,novel4 #b vols41 #bas4 ,,the ,,lighthouse4 ,a ,novel4 #b vols41 #bas4 ,,the ,,skeleton ,,in ,,the ,,cupboard4 ,by ,lady ,scott4 #b vols41 #bas4 ,cheaper ,edition1 #es4 ,,too ,,late6 ,by ,mrs4 ,,dimsdale4 #gs4 #f;d4 ,,helen4 ,a ,romance of ,real ,life4 #gs4 #f;d4 ,,the ,,castle and the ,,cottage in ,,spain4 ,by ,lady ,wallace1 ,author of ',clara2 or1 ,slave ,life in ,europe4' #b vols41 #bas4 ,,cyrus4 ,by ,lady ,julia ,lockwood4 ,,gertrude ,,melton2 or1 ,,nature',s ,,nobleman4 ,a ,tale4 #gs4 #f;d4 ,,ruth ,,baynard',s ,,story4 #a vol41 #ajs4 #f;d4 ,,vanity ,,church4 #b vols41 #bas4 ,,my ,,wife',s ,,pinmoney4 ,by ,e4 ,e4 ,,nelson1 a grand niece of the great ,lord ,nelson4 #es4 ,,the ,,emigrant',s ,,daughter4 ,dedicated1 by permission1 to the ,empress of ,russia4 #es4 ,,miriam ,,may4 #dth ,edition4 #ajs4 #f;d4 ,,whispering ,,voices ,,of ,,the ,,yule4 ,tales for ,christmas4 #es4 ,,the ,,senior ,,fellow4 ,a ,tale of ,clerical ,life4 #ajs4 #f;d4 ,,almack',s4 ,a ,novel4 ,dedicated to the ,ladies ,patronesses of the ,balls at ,almack's4 ,new ,edition1 #a vol1 crown #hvo1 #ajs4 #f;d4 ,,nelly ,,carew4 ,by ,,miss ,,power4 #b vols1 #bas4 ,,memoirs ,,of ,a ,,lady ,,in ,,waiting4 ,by the ,author of ',adventures of ,mrs4 ,colonel ,somerset in ,caffraria4' #b vols1 #ahs4 ,,hulse ,,house4 ,a ,novel4 ,by the ,author of ',anne ,gray4' #b vols1 post #hvo1 #bas4 ,,the ,,nevilles ,,of ,,garretstown4 ,a ,historical ,tale4 ,edited1 and with a ,preface by the ,author of ',emilia ,wyndham4' #c vols1 post #hvo1 #cas4 #f;d4 ,,corvoda ,,abbey4 ,a ,tale4 #a vol1 post #hvo1 #ajs4 #f;d4 ,,the ,,vicar ,,of ,,lyssel4 ,the ,diary of a ,clergyman in the #ahth century4 #ds4 #f;d4 ,,goethe ,,in ,,strasbourg4 ,a ,dramatic ,nouvelette4 ,by ,h4 ,noel ,humphreys4 #gs4 #f;d4 ,,squires ,,and ,,parsons4 ,a ,church ,novel4 #a vol4 #ajs4 #f;d4 ,,the ,,dean2 or1 the ,,popular ,,preacher4 ,by ,,berkeley ,,aikin1 ,author of ',anne ,sherwood4' #c vols4 post #hvo1 #cas4 #f;d4 ,,charley ,,nugent2 or1 ,,passages ,,in ,,the ,,life ,,of ,a ,,sub4 ,a ,novel1 #c vols1 post #hvo4 #cas4 #f;d4 ,,paul ,,ferroll4 ,by the ,author of ',,ix ,poems by ,v4' ,fourth ,edition4 ,post #hvo1 #ajs4 #f;d4 ,,lord ,,aubrey2 or1 ,,what ,,shall ,i ,,do8 ,by the ,author of ',every ,day4' ,a ,novel4 #b vols41 #bas4 ,,the ,,ironsides4 ,a ,tale of the ,english ,commonwealth4 #c vols41 #cas4 #f;d4 ,,agnes ,,home4 ,a ,novel4 #ajs4 #f;d4 ,,la ,,cava2 or1 ,,recollections ,,of ,,the ,,neapolitans4 #ajs4 #f;d4 ,,anselmo4 ,a ,tale of ,modern ,italy4 #b vols41 #bas4 ,,the ,,dalrymples2 or1 ,,long ,,credit ,,and ,,long ,,cloth4 #ajs4 #f;d4 ,,instinct2 or1 ,,reason4 ,by ,lady ,,julia ,,lockwood4 #es4 #f;d4 ,,careladen ,,house4 ,a ,novel4 #ajs4 #f;d4 ,poetry4 ,sir ,e4 ,l4 ,bulwer ,lytton's ,eva1 ,,and ,,other ,,poems4 ,sacred ,poems4 ,by the late ,right ,hon4 ,sir ,robert ,grant1 with a ,notice by ,lord ,glenelg4 ,eustace2 ,an ,elegy4 ,by the ,right ,hon4 ,charles ,tennyson ,d',eyncourt4 ,oberon's ,empire4 ,a ,mask4 ,the ,shadow of the ,yew1 ,,and ,,other ,,poems4 ,by ,norman ,b4 ,yonge4 ,,messrs4 ,,saunders1 ,,otley1 ,,and ,,co4',s ,,east ,,india ,,army ,,and ,,colonial ,,agency4 #ff1 ,,brook ,,street1 ,,hanover ,,square1 ,,london1 ,w4 7,in the immediate vicinity of the ,new ,east ,india ,house and the ,oriental ,club47 ,messrs4 ,,saunders1 ,,otley1 and ,co4 beg to invite the attention of ,regimental ,messes1 ,officers1 ,members of the ,civil ,service1 and other ,residents in ,india1 ,australia1 and the ,colonies to their ,east ,india ,army and ,colonial ,agency1 and to the advantages it offers4 ,,banking ,,department4 ,,pay1 ,,pensions1 ,,fund ,,allowances1 ,,dividends1 ,c41 drawn and remitted with regularity4 ,,sales of1 and ,,investments in1 ,government ,stock1 ,foreign ,securities1 c41 effected4 ,every other description of ,,financial ,,business transacted4 ,,supply ,,department4 ,,miscellaneous ,,supplies ,,of ,,every ,,description1 including ,provisions1 ,wines1 ,plate1 ,jewellery1 ,books1 ,guns1 ,band ,instruments1 ,clothing1 c41 carefully selected and despatched by ,overland ,route1 or ,sailing ,ship1 to ,regiments and ,messes in ,india1 ,australia1 and the ,colonies4 ,,private ,,orders from ,officers1 ,members of the ,civil ,service1 and ,residents in ,india1 ,australia1 and the ,colonies generally1 are executed with care1 economy1 efficiency1 and promptitude4 ,all orders should be accompanied by full and detailed directions4 ,,personal ,,agency ,,department4 ,the ,constituents of ,messrs4 ,saunders1 ,otley1 and ,co4 may depend upon receiving every attention to their requirements and instructions4 ,every assistance will be afforded to their ,constituents and their ,families on their arrival in ,england1 with the view to relieve them from every possible inconvenience4 ,charge1 when required1 will be taken of children coming from ,india and the ,colonies1 and arrangements will be made for their education in ,england4 ,to those going out to ,india1 ,australia1 and the ,colonies1 ,messrs4 ,saunders1 ,otley1 and ,co4 offer their services to secure passages ,overland1 or by ,ship1 and to afford them all necessary information connected therewith4 ,all ,letters1 ,parcels1 c41 will be received by ,messrs4 ,saunders1 ,otley1 and ,co41 for their ,constituents 7whether in ,england1 ,india1 or the ,colonies71 to whom they will be forwarded regularly4 ,,terms4 ,,no ,,commission ,,charged on the execution of ,orders1 whether from ,regimental ,messes or ,private ,individuals1 ,,when ,,accompanied ,,by ,a ,,remittance1 and a small ,discount at all times allowed4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,literary ,,and ,,political ,,newspaper ,,for ,,india ,,and ,,the ,,colonies4 ,,the ,,oriental ,,budget1 ,,price ,,one ,,shilling 7,,post ,,free74 ,published on the ,first of every ,month by ,saunders1 ,otley1 and ,co41 #ff1 ,brook ,street1 ,hanover ,square1 ,london4 99 99 99 99 99 ,transcriber's ,note3 ,changes to the original document3 ,footnotes and illustrations may have been moved4 ,minor punctuation inconsistencies or errors have been corrected4 ,to the table of illustrations have been added entries for the preceding illustrations4 ,the publisher's corrections listed at the end of ,volume ,,iii have been applied4 ,the following additional changes were made3 analagousanalogous to the mountain chains to be reaped from ,european emigationemigration ,namely3 #iaei ,portuguese,two footnotes were improperly swapped we were still able vividly to recalrecall ,if any one desires to see a veritable towards the end of the rainy reasonseason1 their bite produces on the thedel #bnd the hand that such soundings are only succesfulsuccessful when they cannot recalrecall having perceived1 ,terrestrial ,magnetism1 ,liuteenant,lieutenant ,robert ,mllar2 of ,new ,bedford1 ,massachussets,massachusetts1 pendant les annsannes #agia-id there theredel #bnd there is nothing resembling a beach custom that seems to recalrecall the frightful ,this time1 morever1moreover and chauntedchanted the praises all to be able to indentifyidentify them1 thirty to the ,parias,pariahs1 ,ry,by ,t4 ,,lewis ,,farley1 ,esq41 effected4 ,every other descripiondescription ,also1 the publisher on one occasion confused the degrees ,raumur and ,fahrenheit used in measuring temperature with degrees and minutes used to determine lattitude and longitude3 ,between the ,gulfs of ,guayaquil and ,panama1 north-east of the cold current1 the temperature of the sea during the month of ,april rose as high as #bd #e'1 7#hg #ab' ,fahr474 ,within the range of the current1 ,mr4 ,dirckinck had carried on his observations in compliance with my instructions1 by means of thermometers that had been compared by ,arago4 ,everywhere in the current1 in ,december #ahbd1 he found from #af to #ah 7#fh to #gbe ,fahr472 between ,quilca and ,callao1 in ,january1 #ahbe1 from #ah to #ai 7#gb #e' to #gd #ge' ,fahr472 between ,chorillos1 near ,lima 7,lat4 #ab #ci' ,s47 and ,valparaiso1 in ,august1 #ahbe1 from #ac #h' to #aj #e' 7#fcje to #e #fb' ,fahr472 between ,chorillos and ,san ,carlos de ,chiloe1 in ,june1 #ahbe1 from #ah #h' to #i #b' 7#gd #c' to #eb #g'74 ,the corrected paragraph is as follows3 ,between the ,gulfs of ,guayaquil and ,panama1 north-east of the cold current1 the temperature of the sea during the month of ,april rose as high as #bde1 7#hgab ,fahr474 ,within the range of the current1 ,mr4 ,dirckinck had carried on his observations in compliance with my instructions1 by means of thermometers that had been compared by ,arago4 ,everywhere in the current1 in ,december #ahbd1 he found from #af to #ah 7#fh to #gbe ,fahr472 between ,quilca and ,callao1 in ,january1 #ahbe1 from #ah to #ai 7#gbe to #gdge ,fahr472 between ,chorillos1 near ,lima 7,lat4 #ab #ci' ,s47 and ,valparaiso1 in ,august1 #ahbe1 from #ach to #aje 7#fcje to #eefb ,fahr472 between ,chorillos and ,san ,carlos de ,chiloe1 in ,june1 #ahbe1 from #ahh to #ib 7#gdc to #ebg74 99 99 99 99 99