---------------------------------------- ---------------------------- ,,transcriber',s ,,notes 99 ,minor typographical errors have been corrected silently4 99 ,inconsistencies in spelling 7including hyphenation7 and formatting have not been corrected1 except that sandpaper has been changed to sand-paper4 99 ,special characters and formatting3 99 ,a ,v-shaped symbol is represented as ,v2 99 ,text printed in italics and bold face in the original work are represented here as text and text1 respectively2 99 ,small capitals in the original work are represented by all- capitals2 99 ,superscript characters in the original work are represented here as regular characters4 99 ,asterisms are represented as 9999992 99 ,in-line illustrations are represented as ,figure2 99 ,in the multi-page table the repeated headings and 'carry forward' _/ 'carried forward' have been removed4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------- ,,hand-,,craft4 ,,drawing ,,books4 ,kindergarten ,drawing ,book4 ,part ,i4 ,compiled by ,t4 ,g4 ,rooper4 ,two ,hundred ,blackboard ,drawing ,exercises for ,infants' ,classes4 ,small quarto1 cloth1 price #as4 #f;d4 ,kindergarten ,drawing ,book4 ,part ,,ii4 ,compiled by ,t4 ,g4 ,rooper4 7,curved lines47 ,small quarto1 cloth1 price #as4 ,,infants' ,,drawing ,,books4 ,a ,varied ,occupation4 ,book ,i4 ,vertical and ,horizontal ,lines of varying lengths in combination4 ,book ,,ii4 ,vertical and ,horizontal ,lines1 with ,oblique ,lines drawn at ,angles of #de ,degrees4 ,book ,,iii4 ,vertical and ,horizontal ,lines1 with ,oblique ,lines drawn at various ,angles4 ,,price ,,twopence ,,each4 ,recommended by the ,science and ,art ,department for ,beginning in ,elementary ,day ,schools4 ,,junior ,,drawing ,,books4 ,three ,books4 ,,price ,,twopence ,,each4 ,,drawing ,,books4 ,to meet the requirements of the ,new ,class ,subject--,drawing--and forming a complete course of ,instruction in ,freehand and ,geometry1 with full directions and space for working4 ,,freehand4 ,book ,i4 ,lines1 ,angles1 ,parallels4 ,simple ,right-lined ,forms4 ,book ,,ii4 ,simple ,right-lined ,forms4 ,book ,,iii4 ,simple ,combinations of ,straight and ,curved ,lines1 forming familiar ,symmetrical ,figures4 ,book ,,iv4 ,more ,advanced ,combinations of ,straight and ,curved ,lines1 forming ,symmetrical ,figures4 ,books ,v4 ,,vi4 ,familiar ,symmetrical ,objects of the ,home4 ,books ,,vii4 ,,viii4 ,stage ,,ii4 of the ,science and ,art ,department4 ,books ,,ix4 ,x4 ,common ,objects in ,light and ,shade4 #aa inches by #g-a_/b inches1 paper covers1 ,twopence each4 ,,books ,i4-,,viii4 have ,,sixteen ,,pages4 ,,books ,,ix4 and ,x4 ,,eight ,,pages4 ,,geometry4 ,book ,i4 ,lines1 ,parallels1 ,angles and ,triangles drawn with ,rulers4 ,book ,,ii4 ,quadrilaterals and ,simple ,geometrical ,figures drawn with ,rulers4 ,book ,,iii4 ,lines and ,angles4 ,book ,,iv4 ,drawing to ,scale4 ,book ,v4 ,triangles1 ,quadrilaterals1 ,circles and ,tangents4 ,book ,,vi4 ,polygons1 ,ellipses1 ,inscribed and ,described ,figures4 ,book ,,vii4 ,inscribed and ,described ,figures4 ,book ,,viii4 ,proportionals and ,areas4 ,book ,,ix4 ,simple ,scales1 ,projection of ,rectangular ,solids1 and ,plane ,figures4 ,book ,x4 ,ditto 7more advanced71 and with ,sections4 ,book ,,xi4 ,projection of ,circular ,solids and ,sections4 ,,books ,i4-,,viii41 #aa inches by #g-a_/d inches1 paper covers1 ,twopence each4 ,,books ,,ix4-,,xi41 #ad inches by #aj-c_/d inches1 paper covers1 ,threepence each4 999999 ,a ,book of ,specimen ,pages of this ,series will be forwarded free to ,head-,teachers on application4 ,single ,copies of any of the ,books are sent post-free on receipt of the published price4 ,,studies ,,in ,,machine ,,design4 ,by ,c4 ,f4 ,,archer1 ,certificated ,teacher1 ,subject ,,ii4 ,,elementary ,,stage4 #a4 ,hexagon and ,square-headed ,bolts and ,nuts4 #b4 ,flange ,coupling of ,shafts of different diameter4 #c4 ,hydraulic ,pipe ,joint4 #d4 ,steam ,piston4 #e4 ,cylinder ,cover and ,stuffing ,box4 #f4 ,full ,way ,stop ,valve4 ,on ,separate ,sheets1 #ac-a_/b inches by #i-a_/b inches1 the ,six in a ,packet1 ,sixpence4 ,,advanced ,,stage4 #a4 ,launch ,engine4 #b4 ,details of ,crank ,shaft and ,columns4 #c4 ,details of ,slide ,valve and ,link ,motion4 #d4 ,details of ,piston1 ,crosshead1 and ,connecting ,rod4 #e4 ,launch ,engine ,cylinder4 #f4 ,details of ,bed-plate4 ,on ,separate ,sheets1 #ac-a_/b inches by #i-a_/b inches1 the ,six in a ,packet1 ,sixpence4 ,,griffith1 ,,farran1 ,,okeden ,,welsh1 ,,london4 ,,hand-,,craft3 ,,the ,,most ,,reliable ,,basis ,,of ,,technical ,,education ,,in ,,schools ,,and ,,classes4 ,a ,,text ,,book ,,embodying ,a ,,system ,,of ,,pure ,,mechanical ,,art1 ,,without ,,the ,,aid ,,of ,,machinery2 ,,being ,,an ,,english ,,exposition ,,of ,s,l,oe,j,d ,,as ,,cultivated ,,in ,,sweden1 ,,and ,,generally ,,adopted ,,by ,,all ,,scandinavian ,,peoples1 ,,to ,,their ,,great ,,advantage4 ,,explained ,,and ,,illustrated ,,by ,,john ,d4 ,,sutcliffe1 ,,of ,,the ,,manchester ,,recreative ,,evening ,,classes4 ,,with ,,an ,,introduction ,,by ,t4 ,c4 ,,horsfall1 ,j4,p4 ,,new ,,york ,,charles ,e4 ,,merrill ,,co4 #eb #ed ,,lafayette ,,place #ahij ,,introduction4 ,it is surprising that so few efforts have hitherto been made in this country to introduce manual training into ,elementary ,schools4 ,adequate reason for making such training part of the national system of education exists in the fact1 that a large proportion of the people have to earn their livelihood by industries for the attainment of a high degree of skill in which early training of hand and eye is as necessary as it is for success in the use of musical instruments4 ,there can be no doubt that if1 in #ahgj1 a system1 resembling that of ,sloyd1 had been generally introduced into ,english ,elementary ,schools1 the joiners1 metal-workers1 and most other craftsmen of to-day1 would possess more skill in their own work1 and more interest in all kinds of manual work1 than they do now possess1 and that ,english workpeople1 finding that their children received at school kinds of training obviously well fitted to increase wage-earning power1 would less commonly than now be careless with regard to their children's attendance at school4 ,this reason for desiring the introduction of manual training into ,elementary ,schools might have been expected to suggest itself to all persons who are acquainted with the conditions under which the mass of ,english people live2 but experience gained in ,sweden and other countries where the ,sloyd system has been largely used1 proves that there are also strong educational reasons for desiring that ,sloyd shall be introduced into all ,english ,elementary ,schools as soon as possible4 ,it has been found that this admirably graduated system of training not only fosters deftness of hand and correctness of eye1 as it might be expected to do1 but also has distinctly moral and intellectual effects1 as it promotes patient attention1 steady application1 and interest in work1 to a very high degree4 ,its effect on many of the large class of children who1 though not dullards1 show lack of interest in1 and deficiency in the power to understand1 the subjects comprised in the ordinary school-curriculum1 has been most beneficial4 ,in their ,sloyd-lessons many of these children have found themselves the equals1 some more than the equals1 of companions far their superiors at book-work1 and have by this gained a confidence in their own ability which has often reacted on their power and their will to conquer their other lessons4 ,thus many children who1 when they first began ,sloyd1 were distinctly below the average in intelligence1 have become under its influence completely normal4 ,on nearly all children the effect of this kind of training has been so vivifying that1 at least1 as much progress has been made with other subjects1 when several hours weekly have been given to ,sloyd1 as had been made previously when all the school-time was given to them4 ,the general educational value of ,sloyd has1 indeed1 been found to be so great1 that in some schools in ,swedish towns as many as eight hours are given to it each week4 ,all persons who know how badly prepared are the majority of the children who now leave our ,elementary ,schools for gaining rapidly skill in the work by which they have to live1 or for taking an intelligent interest in their own work or in the best handiwork of others1 most strongly desire that the educational authorities in this country will no longer delay the introduction of a system1 the great usefulness of which has been so fully ascertained in other lands1 and for which many well-trained ,english teachers can now be obtained4 ,mr ,sutcliffe brought to the careful study of ,sloyd1 knowledge of the methods of wood-carving2 and his treatise will doubtless be found to be helpful to all teachers of the new system4 ,t4 ,c4 ,,horsfall1 ,j4,p4 ,,swanscoe ,,park1 near ,,macclesfield4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,note ,,by ,,the ,,author4 ,some friends have advised that elementary suggestions should have been given as guidance for the use of the tools4 ,everything of the kind has been omitted1 because it is vain to rely upon book knowledge in such matters4 ,how to handle and use the tools can only be well imparted by a competent teacher in practice4 ,the author avails himself of two more lines1 wherein to acknowledge the valuable literary assistance he has received from his friend1 ,mr ,richard ,russell1 of ,ashbourne ,house1 ,herne ,hill1 ,london4 ,j4 ,d4 ,s4 ,,pendleton1 ,,manchester1 ,march #ahij4 ,,hand-,,craft4 ,for some generations there has been cultivated in ,sweden1 and amongst ,scandinavian and kindred peoples1 a course of training in personal ingenuity1 unknown in most other countries4 ,it does not seem to have ever been persevered in after the manner of trading industry1 but as a means of promoting throughout the community a taste and skill for the performance of highly-finished productions in mechanical art1 proceeding from the simple to the complex1 and resulting in a widely-diffused facility for all kinds of constructive occupations4 ,such course or system of training is called ,sloyd1 and written ,sloejd4 ,for the majority of ,english people such a word cannot have a meaning1 and cannot appeal with adequate force to popular appreciation4 ,the nearest equivalent in ,english to the ,swedish word ,sloejd would seem to be ,hand-,craft1 or mechanical training for the hand1 undertaken voluntarily for the satisfaction of acquiring manual skill in general1 as distinguished from a handicraft of limited application1 pursued of necessity from day to day1 rather by routine than by skill4 ,hand-,craft is therefore adopted as synonymous in ,england with the word ,sloejd in ,sweden4 ,as cultivated in ,sweden1 it involves all kinds of manual training1 and is applicable to highly finished productions in leather1 metal1 and various other substances1 but it suffices1 for educational purposes1 to limit teaching and exercise to objects made of wood4 ,it must always be borne in mind that ,hand-,craft is mainly educational1 and is valuable1 not for what it produces1 but for the training which the production involves2 just as the letters of the alphabet1 and their accurate use1 are the essential preliminaries to literary attainments4 ,it imparts and cultivates mechanical dexterity1 just as learning to read and write spontaneously developes mental capacity4 ,therefore1 whoever masters a course of ,hand-,craft acquires an aptitude for all kinds of material processes4 ,such an aptitude1 while useful and gratifying to the individual1 is of the greatest consequence amongst people so deeply interested as the ,english are in manufacturing pursuits4 ,hand-,craft also has strong claims to be cultivated as a recreation1 and experience proves that it may be so regarded1 with every prospect of becoming popular as such4 ,touching this matter of recreation1 and those who have not the faculty for viewing the subject in that light1 reference may be made to familiar facts with reference to chess4 ,perhaps there is nothing that1 to the uninitiated1 appears more stupid1 insipid1 and purposeless than the progress of that game4 ,yet there are thousands1 who have so regarded it1 who1 after being well initiated1 have become interested and absorbed by it1 to an extent exceeding the possibilities of their original belief4 ,so it is with ,hand-,craft1 with this difference1 that ,hand-,craft1 while supplying an incentive to wholesome perseverance1 developing into a fascinating recreation1 is suggestive at every turn of life-long utility1 with reference to an infinite variety of probable subsequent experience4 ,it promotes a delightful consciousness of the merits of neat1 natty tastefulness and judgment with reference to every material thing1 and trains the mind and the eye1 as well as the hand1 to perceive and appreciate excellence of design and finish1 proportion1 beauty1 and adaptability of the most familiar appliances4 ,training of this kind has1 in recent years1 been much stimulated by the establishment of an ,institute or ,seminary for its teaching and cultivation at ,naeaes in ,sweden1 where very generous accommodation and facilities are provided for the instruction of teachers from all parts of ,sweden and the rest of the world4 ,the subsequent mission of each of those teachers is to diffuse the taste and knowledge he has thus acquired amongst his own people on his return to them1 or amongst other people where he may find encouragement to settle for that purpose4 ,thus have the foundations been laid for this genial drawing out and exercise of latent mechanical genius amongst the people of ,england4 ,with the object of widening those foundations1 these pages have been prepared2 primarily as forming a ,text ,book for ,teachers1 but also as an incentive to parents1 educationists1 and statesmen to fortify the rising generation of ,england against the opprobrium so justly alleged against the ,english of the present day1 that they are behind the rest of the industrial world in those elements of mechanical taste and skill1 which are becoming more and more essential to the maintenance of manufacturing and commercial prosperity4 ,an earnest determination to promote amendment in these respects cannot be better carried into effect than by insisting that ,hand-,craft shall be regarded as an essential branch of the ,technical ,education that is now struggling to assert itself usefully4 ,if such a branch be left out1 the mere teaching of routine trade processes will inevitably fail4 ,such routine processes are many of them in heavy-handed1 rough disregard of the nicety1 accuracy1 finish1 and judgment which intelligent exercise in ,hand-,craft can alone impart2 which is the only reliable basis for the superior mechanical results so much needed4 ,hand-,craft in wood is distinguished from carpentry or joinery in many important respects4 ,there is no division of labour4 ,everything produced is the entire work of one operator1 for the defects of which he is solely responsible4 ,this directness of responsibility is one of the great merits of ,hand-,craft1 being calculated to promote wholesome pride in the excellence of complete work2 a sentiment that is apt to be very weak1 or totally wanting1 where division of labour is much relied upon4 ,the intellectual faculties are brought into unison with the hand1 by knowledge and experience developing together with increasing dexterity4 ,genuine respect and sympathy are developed for manual toil by familiarity with its application4 ,love of work in general is developed1 and a taste for it instilled by practical experience of its utility4 ,habits of attention1 perseverance1 industry1 and discipline are formed1 cultivated1 and unconsciously grafted upon the pupil1 by the application necessary to excel4 ,independence1 order1 and cleanliness spontaneously grow and become part of the nature of the operator4 ,manual dexterity being thoroughly established1 the operator is endowed with the consequent acquired ability for dealing with the practical business of life4 ,education being the object that should be constantly kept in view1 in the teaching and practice of ,hand-,craft1 it should be thoroughly appreciated that it is adapted for forming and shaping the entire bent of all the faculties4 ,the objects recommended to work upon are all small1 and are therefore within the capacity of the very young1 and of both sexes4 ,for the same reason1 the eye1 the hand1 and the judgment are trained to precise form and finish in the minutest details4 ,this is important1 for1 though it is generally easier to make something large and rough than small and smooth1 no one who is incapable of making a small model well can make a large one any better4 ,small objects are invariably the best training to work upon1 as being certain to inspire appreciation for neatness1 exactness1 and accuracy4 ,,basis ,,of ,,teaching4 ,practical teaching of ,hand-,craft is based upon models for imitation4 ,these models1 distinguished by numbering from #a;,a and #a;,b to #be1 are represented by the drawings accompanying these pages1 and the instructions hereafter subjoined are explained by reference to the drawings4 ,the following is a ,,list ,,of ,,the ,,models4 999999 ,the second column indicates the kind of wood required--,b4 signifying ,beech or ,birch1 and ,f4 signifying ,fir1 commonly called ,deal or ,pine2 the class of wood usually distinguished as ,pine being preferable to the rougher-grained wood generally classed as ,deal4 ,no4 ,wood4 ,names of ,models4 #a;,a4 ,b4 ,kindergarten ,pointer4 #a;,b4 ,b4 ,another variety of the same4 #b4 ,b4 ,parcel-,pin or ,carrier4 #c4 ,f4 ,flower-,stick4 #d4 ,b4 ,envelope ,opener4 #e4 ,f4 ,rectangular ,flower-,stick4 #f4 ,f4 ,pencil ,holder4 #g4 ,f4 ,key ,label4 #h4 ,b4 ,thread-,winder4 #i4 ,f4 ,dibble for the ,garden4 #aj4 ,b4 ,pen-,rest4 #aa4 ,f4 ,flower-pot ,stand4 #ab4 ,b4 ,paper-,knife4 #ac4 ,b4 ,knife-,rest4 #ad4 ,b4 ,bowl1 for ,toilette1 c4 #ae4 ,b4 ,hammer ,handle4 #af4 ,b4 ,handle for ,chisel or ,file4 #ag4 ,b4 ,spoon4 #ah4 ,f4 ,chopping-,board4 #ai4 ,b4 ,measure 7,half-yard74 #bj4 ,b4 ,scoop for ,flour1 ,sugar1 c4 #ba4 ,f4 ,hanging-,pegs4 #bb4 ,f4 ,stand for ,flower-,pot1 c4 #bc4 ,f4 ,footstool4 #bd4 ,f4 ,b4 ,book ,carrier4 #be4 ,b4 ,ladle4 ,,tools ,,and ,,appliances4 ,the following is a ,list of ,tools and ,appliances necessary for producing the models before enumerated1 with the cost of each1 both ,swedish and ,english4 ,descriptions of ,articles4 ,best ,swedish4 ,best ,english4 s4 d4 s4 d4 ,carpenter's ,bench in ,pine1 #f ft4 long #aa #c #ac #j ,knife 7resembling a ,shoemaker's7 #j #d #j #h ,two ,frame ,saws1 blades #c_/h and #a-a_/d wide #b #ga #aj #f ,tenon or ,dovetail ,saw 7small7 #b #j #c #j ,jack ,plane #a #h #d #i ,smooth ,plane #a #a #c #i ,three ,furmer ,chisels1 #c_/h1 #c_/d1 and #a-a_/d wide #a #b #b #d ,three ,outside ,gouges1 #a_/b1 #g_/h1 and #a-a_/h wide #a #d #b #h ,two-foot ,rule #j #f #j #f ,square 7#f in47 #a #f #a #aj ,bevel 7#f in47 #j #h #b #c ,marking ,gauge #j #f #j #f ,compasses #a #j #a #h ,hammer 7small7 #j #h #j #h ,mallet #j #f #a #j ,oilstone #j #g #a #j ,scraper1 with round end #j #b #j #e ,two ,files 7half round71 one rough1 the other smooth #a #j #c #j ,chopper or ,axe #a #aj #a #f ,spokeshave 7iron7 #j #e #a #j ,screw-driver #j #c #j #g ,glue-,pot and ,brush #a #f #j #aj ,pincers #j #g #j #i ,two ,brad-,awls #j #b #j #d ,brace and twenty-four ,bits #d #j #f #i ,sand-paper ,no4 #a;,a ,pencil --------------------------- #bcg #c #fe #c #a ,nothing exactly like this ,swedish ,saw is made in ,england4 #b ,exclusive of carriage from ,gothenburg4 ,although the prices of the ,english tools are so much higher than the ,swedish 7with few exceptions71 they are cheaper in the end4 ,they are more carefully made2 the wood is drier and better selected2 and ,swedish steel is not to be compared with ,english4 ,at the same time1 the ,swedish tools are good enough to put into the hands of school boys and girls1 and they have also the advantage of being considerably lighter in weight4 ,,the ,,bench4 ,a drawing of the ,bench is annexed1 to show the difference between one adapted for ,sloyd or ,hand-,craft and the kind in common use by carpenters4 ,the ,sloyd ,bench is usually about #g ft4 long1 #b ft4 wide1 and #c ft4 #c in4 high4 ,as shown in the drawing1 it has an extra ,bench ,screw at the end1 which enables the student to fix a piece of level wood rigidly on the top of the ,bench1 by placing the end against a ,stop1 as shown in the drawing1 and bringing the pressure of the ,end ,screw to bear on the other end4 ,the numerous holes 7shown in the drawing7 on the ,bench ,top1 are so arranged that the ,stop can be fixed in any of them4 ,for school work the ,benches are often made double--that is1 with a ,screw on each side and on each end of the ,bench4 ,this arrangement economises space1 and answers all practical purposes2 enabling two students to work at one bench4 ,the ,sloyder will find it an advantage to fix a small drawer under the bench top4 ,in this he should keep his sand-paper and files1 as nothing is so detrimental to the edges of the sharp tools as these two articles4 ,illustration ,,tool ,,exercises4 ,the making of the models involves training in the exercises enumerated in the following list1 the numbering being for subsequent reference4 #a4 ,long ,cut 7with grain74 #b4 ,end ,cut 7across grain74 #c4 ,oblique ,cut4 #d4 ,bevel ,cut4 #e4 ,sawing off4 #f4 ,convex ,cut4 #g4 ,long ,sawing4 #h4 ,edge ,planing4 #i4 ,squaring with ,set ,square4 #aj4 ,gauging4 #aa4 ,drilling with ,brace and ,shell-,bit4 #ab4 ,flat ,planing4 #ac4 ,filing4 #ad4 ,drilling with ,brace and ,centre-,bit4 #ae4 ,curved ,sawing4 #af4 ,concave ,cut4 #ag4 ,bevelled ,planing4 #ah4 ,shaping with ,plane4 #ai4 ,chopping4 #bj4 ,cross-,sawing4 #ba4 ,mortising with ,knife4 #bb4 ,wave-,sawing4 #bc4 ,plane ,surface-,cut with ,knife4 #bd4 ,scraping4 #be4 ,obstacle-,planing4 #bf4 ,perpendicular ,chiselling4 #bg4 ,concave ,chiselling or ,gouging4 #bh4 ,gouging with ,spoon-,iron4 #bi4 ,oblique ,chiselling4 #cj4 ,smoothing with ,spokeshave4 #ca4 ,shaping with ,spokeshave4 #cb4 ,oblique ,sawing4 #cc4 ,oblique ,planing4 #cd4 ,end ,planing4 #ce4 ,exercises with ,smoothing ,plane4 #cf4 ,work in ,hard ,wood4 #cg4 ,dowelling or ,round ,mortising4 #ch4 ,bevelling ,edge with ,plane ,oblique4 #ci4 ,gluing4 #dj4 ,sinking in of ,iron ,plates4 #da4 ,nailing4 #db4 ,sinking of ,nails4 #dc4 ,bevelling with ,shaping ,knife4 #dd4 ,perpendicular ,gouging4 #de4 ,point ,planing4 #df4 ,oblique ,grooving4 #dg4 ,circular ,sawing4 #dh4 ,fixing with ,screws4 #di4 ,modelling with ,knife4 ,,making ,,of ,,the ,,models4 ,the following are the descriptions of how to apply the ,exercises to the making of the ,models4 ,,no4 #a;,a4 ,,kindergarten ,,pointer4 7,requiring ,exercises #a and #b47 ,commence with a piece of ,beech1 rather more than #e in4 long1 and not less than #c_/d in4 thick4 ,it is all the better1 for this and other exercises1 if it is split from a larger piece1 and has no side either square or straight4 ,with the knife1 make one side level and smooth1 to a width rather exceeding #c_/h in4 ,when that is done perfectly1 make another straight side at right angles to the first4 ,trim the ends2 then mark with the pencil at each end a #c_/h-;in4 square1 with the two straight sides as bases4 ,then cut two additional straight sides in unison with those squares4 ,this will produce a stem a shade more than #e in4 long and #c_/h in4 square4 ,mark each end with a diagram thus ,figure2 then draw corresponding lines along each side4 ,then1 letting one end remain the same size2 reduce the other end to #a_/h in4 square 7as shown in centre of diagram7 by tapering each side symmetrically throughout4 ,this will result in the stem being #c_/h in4 square at one end and #a_/h in4 square at the other end4 ,then1 guided by the diagram at the thicker end1 take off the four corners symmetrically throughout1 thus producing a tapered octagonal stem4 ,then1 in like manner1 take off the eight corners with great precision1 so as to maintain uniform symmetry1 and the result will be a tapered stem1 approximately round throughout and pointed at one end4 ,the ,long ,cut having1 thus far1 been solely resorted to1 measure from the point1 and make a mark at #d in42 then cut off at the mark1 thus exercising the ,cross ,cut4 ,then1 by judiciously applying sand-paper1 the pointer may be made perfectly smooth and almost perfectly round1 as it should be throughout4 ,,no4 #a;,b4 ,,kindergarten ,,pointer4 7,requiring ,exercises #a1 #b1 and #c47 ,proceed as for the previous model until the round pointer is produced4 ,then apply ,exercise #c to the two ,oblique ,cuts shown from ,a to a in the figures #a1 #b1 and #c1 of drawings ,no4 #a;,b4 ,these ,oblique ,cuts demand great care and precision1 as the ,cuts should be precisely opposite each other1 perfectly level and symmetrical4 ,,no4 #b4 ,,parcel-,,pin ,,or ,,carrier4 7,requiring ,exercises #a1 #b1 and #d47 ,commence with a piece of ,beech rather more than #c in4 long and #e_/h in4 thick4 ,reduce it in like manner as previously described to a stem #c in4 long and #c_/h in4 square throughout4 ,then apply ,exercise #d1 and so bevel the sides and ends as to make chamfers1 as shown in ,figs4 #a1 #b1 and #c of drawings ,no4 #b4 ,then draw a line across the centre of one side1 and there cut a ,v-shaped notch as shown in ,figs4 #a and #b1 so as to provide for a string4 ,then finish with a piece of sand-paper laid upon a flat surface1 upon which first rub the sides1 then the chamfers1 and lastly the ends4 ,,no4 #c4 ,,flower-,,stick4 7,requiring ,exercises #e1 #a1 #b1 and #f47 ,this is the first model made in soft wood1 and introduces ,exercise #e1 ,sawing ,off4 ,from the edge of a #c_/d-;in4 board saw off a piece the same width as the thickness1 and about #ad in4 long4 ,proceed as for ,no4 #a;,a until a rod is produced #a_/b in4 square throughout4 ,then1 by a cross made from corner to corner ,figure find the centre of one end4 ,then take off the corners throughout until an octagonal rod is produced2 then take off the eight corners so as to make the rod round and the same thickness throughout4 ,then apply ,exercise #f1 the ,convex ,cut1 and point the end where the centre is marked4 ,then measure from the point and mark at #ab in41 and there cut off at right angles4 ,then apply sand-paper1 and the result will be a tapered symmetrical round rod1 pointed at one end1 as shown in drawings ,no4 #c4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #a;,a4 ,kindergarten ,pointer ,illustration3 ,no4 #a;,b4 ,kindergarten ,pointer ,illustration3 ,no4 #b4 ,parcel ,carrier ,illustration3 ,no4 #c4 ,round ,plant ,stick ,,no4 #d4 ,,envelope ,,opener4 7,requiring ,exercises #e1 #a1 #b1 and #f47 ,saw from ,beech1 a piece about #h in4 long1 #c_/d in4 wide and #a_/b in4 thick4 ,with the knife1 make one of the flat sides perfectly level and smooth throughout1 and cut one end across at right angles4 ,with a fine pencil1 draw on the level side the outline of ,fig #a of drawings ,no4 #d1 and also1 with compasses1 describe on the end the semicircle shown by ,fig #c of drawings ,no4 #d1 with the flat edge for the base4 ,apply the long cut to the edges at right angles to the flat side4 ,then1 on each of the edges thus flattened1 draw a line showing the course of the tapering illustration on the first side of ,fig4 #b of drawings ,no4 #d4 ,apply the long cut to each of those lines1 at right angles to the edges4 ,this will produce a rod1 flat on one side1 and presenting a tapered half square on the other4 ,then shave off the corners of that square1 so as to produce half a tapered octagon2 then shave off the corners of that octagon1 being careful that the work is in unison with the semicircle previously described on the thick end4 ,when so far done to satisfaction1 round both ends symmetrically1 as shown in ,figs4 #a and #b of drawings ,no4 #d1 and finish with sand-paper4 ,,no4 #e4 ,,rectangular ,,flower-,,stick1 ,,with ,,chamfered ,,or ,,bevelled ,,corners4 7,requiring ,exercises #e1 #g1 #h1 #i1 #f1 and #c47 ,in this model the ,jack ,plane and the ,try ,square are used for the first time4 ,saw off from ,pine a piece about #af in4 long and #c_/d in4 square4 ,plane one side straight and true1 and one of the other sides at right angles4 ,cut each end across at right angles1 and on each end1 using the planed edges as basis1 mark ,fig4 #b of drawings ,no4 #e4 ,then plane the other two sides at right angles1 so as to produce a square rod1 which1 at every part throughout its length1 should fit the try square4 ,then1 with the plane1 take about two shavings off each corner1 in unison with the figures at the ends4 ,then1 with the knife1 cut the point from a to a as shown in ,fig4 #a of drawings ,no4 #e4 ,then measure from the long-pointed end1 mark the exact length1 cut across at the mark1 and cut the other end to a point with eight sides as shown in ,figs4 #a and #b4 ,finish with sand-paper at the long-pointed end only4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #d4 ,envelope ,opener ,illustration3 ,no4 #e4 ,plant ,stick ,illustration3 ,no4 #f4 ,pencil ,holder ,,no4 #f4 ,,pencil ,,holder4 7,requiring ,exercises #e1 #a1 #aa1 #f1 and #b47 ,this model for the first time introduces the ,brace and ,bit4 ,saw off from ,pine a piece #aj in4 long1 and #c_/d in4 square4 ,with the knife1 cut one end across at right angles1 and make it smooth4 ,find the centre of the end as for model ,no4 #a4 ,fix the stem vertically in the ,bench ,screw1 with the smooth end upwards4 ,fit a #c_/af-,shell-,bit into the ,brace1 and bore a centre hole in the end of the stem as shown in ,fig4 #b of drawings ,no4 #f1 and to the depth dotted in ,fig4 #a4 ,great care must be taken in drilling1 so that the hole may be clean and perpendicular4 ,with the knife1 pare down each side so as to leave a #a_/b-;in4 square1 with the drilled hole in the centre4 ,find the centre in the opposite end4 ,mark a line about #b-a_/d in4 from the drilled end1 as shown in ,fig4 #a4 ,from that line1 shave each side down to the centre last found4 ,then take off the corners so as to make a tapered octagon4 ,then take off the corners of the octagon1 so as to produce a round tapered rod4 ,measure from the thick end and mark the exact length1 and1 at the mark1 cut across4 ,then round the end as shown in ,fig4 #a1 and finish with sand-paper4 ,,note4--,this is a repetition to a considerable extent of ,model #a on a larger scale4 ,the student may be tempted to proceed without going through the processes described1 but the temptation should be rigorously resisted1 as a satisfactory result cannot be obtained except by adhering to all the details prescribed4 ,,no4 #g4 ,,key ,,label4 7,requiring ,exercises #e1 #ab1 #h1 #i1 #aj1 #aa1 #f1 #b1 and #ac47 ,this is mainly intended for an exercise in planing1 and it is better to get out a piece of ,pine sufficient for two models--that is1 about #i in4 long1 #a-c_/d in4 wide1 and #a in4 thick4 ,plane one side1 and then one edge1 perfectly straight and square to each other4 ,then set the gauge to #a-a_/b in4 to fit ,fig4 #a of drawings ,no4 #g4 ,apply the gauge to the straightened edge and mark off the width along the smooth side4 ,then plane that edge down to the line so made1 using the try-square to keep the edge at right angles with the straightened side4 ,next find the centre #c_/d in4 from the top end1 as shown in ,fig4 #a4 ,from that centre describe with the compasses a semicircle4 ,then fit a #c_/af-,shell-bit into the ,brace1 and bore a hole1 at the centre of the semicircle1 right through4 ,then set the gauge to #e_/af in4 for the thickness1 as shown by ,fig4 #b4 ,apply the gauge to the straightened side1 and mark the line for thickness along each edge4 ,then plane the rough side down to those lines4 ,then1 with the knife1 cut round precisely to the semicircle1 using the try-square frequently4 ,if a double length is commenced with1 as before recommended1 the centering1 marking1 drilling1 and rounding must be done at both ends4 ,measure from the rounded end1 and rule with the square1 the length of #d-a_/d in4 ,then1 with ,tenon or ,dovetail ,saw1 cut off just outside the line4 ,then1 with the knife1 pare down to the line1 and with a file1 smooth that end as well as the rounded end1 finishing throughout with sand-paper4 ,,no4 #h4 ,,thread-,,winder4 7,requiring ,exercises #e1 #g1 #ab1 #h1 #i1 #aj1 #ad1 #ae1 #a1 #f1 #af1 and #ac47 ,beech is required1 about #g in4 long1 #c in4 wide1 and #a_/b in4 thick4 ,plane one side and one edge4 ,draw the centre line ,a to ,b in ,fig4 #a of drawings ,no4 #h4 ,with square and compasses draw all the other lines shown in the same ,fig4 ,then fit a #c_/d in4 ,centre-bit to the ,brace1 and bore two holes1 one at ,a and the other at ,b4 ,then1 with the smaller turning saw1 cut the two outside curved edges as shown in ,fig4 #a4 ,with the knife1 trim to the lines1 making the edges square1 as shown in ,fig4 #c4 ,then shave and slightly round each semicircle1 as shown in ,figs4 #a and #b1 smoothing the edges with the file4 ,then set the ,marking ,gauge to #a_/d in41 and1 with the smooth side for a base1 mark gauge lines on each edge for thickness1 and plane the rough side down to those lines4 ,then set the plane very fine and take a shaving off the face side so as to remove the pencil and compass marks4 ,then finish with sand-paper4 ,,no4 #i4 ,,dibble ,,for ,,garden4 7,requiring ,exercises #e1 #g1 #h1 #i1 #aj1 #ag1 #ah1 #f1 #b1 and #ac47 ,saw out from ,fir a piece #ad in4 long and #a-a_/d in4 square4 ,plane one side straight and another side at right angles4 ,set the ,marking ,gauge to #a in41 and with the planed side as base1 mark lines for thickness along each planed side4 ,then plane the rough sides down to those lines1 using the ,try ,square frequently4 ,then1 at each end find the centre thus ,figure with additional lines showing octagons thus ,figure4 ,with the ,marking ,gauge draw lines from end to end of each side corresponding with the corners of each octagon4 ,plane the corners of the square down to those octagon lines1 thus producing an octagonal rod1 and completing the first exercise in bevel planing4 ,plane off the corners of the octagon throughout1 thus producing a rod approximately round1 shown in ,fig4 #b of drawings ,no4 #i1 and so completing the first exercise in shaping with plane4 ,measure from one end for the point as shown in ,fig4 #a1 and1 with the knife1 cut the point as roundly and symmetrically as possible1 referring to the centre marked at the end as a guide for the precise place of the point4 ,then measure from the point and mark at #ab in4 ,cut across at that mark1 and round the blunt end thus made1 as shown at top of ,fig4 #a4 ,with the file1 dress the end and stray angles throughout1 and finish with sand-paper4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #g4 ,key ,label ,illustration3 ,no4 #h4 ,pack ,thread ,winder ,illustration3 ,no4 #i4 ,garden ,dibble ,,no4 #aj4 ,,pen ,,rest4 7,requiring ,exercises #e1 #h1 #i1 #aj1 #bj1 #a1 #b1 #ah1 and #ac47 ,cut from ,beech a piece #e in4 long1 #a in4 wide1 and #c_/d in4 thick4 ,plane one side and one edge at right angles1 then gauge and plane to thickness and height1 as shown in ,fig4 #b of drawings ,no4 #aj1 but flat on all sides4 ,saw across both ends at right angles1 so as to reduce the length to #c-a_/b in4 ,select one edge as the top1 and1 with the square1 rule a central line from e to e1 and a line across at each of the places marked a1 b1 c1 and d in ,fig4 #a1 continuing each line down both sides4 ,then1 at each end1 mark the central place represented by the dot in ,fig4 #b4 ,from each of those central places describe the semicircle shown at top of ,fig4 #b4 ,then mark a line from end to end on each side half way between the top and the bottom4 ,then1 with the knife1 and working to the semicircle at each end1 take off the corners of the top1 so making half an octagon1 and1 by taking off the corners of the half octagon1 produce a top corresponding to the semicircle at each end1 as shown in ,fig4 #b1 taking care that the top of the semicircle throughout centres to the line previously drawn from e to e4 ,then1 with the tenon saw1 at each of the places marked a1 b1 c1 and d1 saw across a right angle slit #c_/af in4 deep4 ,then1 with the knife or a chisel1 cut out the space shown in ,fig4 #a from a to b and from c to d1 taking care that the side of each space is true and square4 ,then1 with the file1 round each base as shown at the top of the shaded section in ,fig4 #b4 ,then smooth with the file where required1 and finish with sand-paper4 ,,no4 #aa4 ,,flower-,,pot ,,stand4 7,requiring ,exercises #e1 #g1 #h1 #i1 #aj1 #b1 #a1 #f1 #ac1 and #ba47 ,this consists of two pieces1 as shown in ,figs4 #a and #b of drawings ,no4 #aa1 each piece so made as to cross and fit the other at the centre1 hence called a ,flower-,pot ,cross1 the whole being a test of exactness and good work1 surpassing any preceding model4 ,cut from ,pine a piece #ab in4 long1 #a-a_/d in4 wide1 and #a_/b in4 thick4 ,plane one side and one edge at right angles2 then gauge for height and thickness1 and plane the other side and edge as shown by the section represented in ,fig4 #c4 ,saw across the middle so as to make two pieces1 and1 from the end of each so cut1 measure off and saw both to the equal length of #e-a_/d in4 each1 taking care that both ends of each are accurate right angles4 ,then place them on their sides and draw the centre line indicated by ,a ,b1 continuing the line all round each piece4 ,from the centre1 mark off the places indicated by e f and g h4 ,at c and d of each1 with the compasses1 describe the quarter circle shown at each top corner of the figures1 striking the segments from the respective dots shown for the purpose near each top corner4 ,then1 with the bottom edge for a base1 draw a gauge line on each side of both pieces to the depth represented by i j1 and with the tenon saw1 make a slit at e and f to the depth of such gauge line4 ,then1 with the knife or chisel1 cut out the openings between e and f to the depth of the gauge line1 taking care to finish the opening perfectly level and true4 ,then1 at the bottom of one piece and the top of the other1 as shown in ,figs4 #a and #b1 gauge1 saw1 and cut out the spaces from g to h in the same manner as for the spaces before mentioned4 ,the openings from g to h1 if well done1 will fit accurately in all directions1 and1 when put together1 will form a firm cross4 ,then1 with the knife1 round the corners of each piece1 at c and d4 ,then smooth with file where required1 and finish with sand-paper4 ,,no4 #ac4 ,,knife ,,rest4#c #c ,no4 #ab 7,paper ,knife7 appears1 for convenience of illustration1 on page #da1 but it should be proceeded with before ,no4 #ac4 7,requiring ,exercises #e1 #g1 #h1 #i1 #aj1 #bj1 #ah1 #bf1 #a1 #b1 #bg1 #ac1 and #bd47 ,cut from ,beech a piece about #e in4 long1 #a in4 wide1 and #g_/h in4 thick4 ,plane one side and one edge at right angles4 ,then saw across one end at right angles1 and1 measuring from that end1 mark off the length at #d-a_/d in41 and saw off that end at the mark1 taking care to maintain right angles4 ,then gauge and plane the rough side and rough edge to a width of #g_/h in4 and a thickness of #e_/h in4 ,then choose one edge for the top1 and1 along the centre of that edge1 draw a line from c to c1 as shown in ,fig4 #a of drawings ,no4 #ac1 and continue the line to the extremities of both ends4 ,then1 in manner described for ,no4 #aj1 gauge1 slit1 and cut out with chisel the spaces shown in the same ,fig4 #a of drawings ,no4 #ac1 from a to a and b to b4 ,then1 with compasses1 as indicated in the same ,fig41 describe on both sides of each top corner1 the segment of a circle represented in each case from c to d4 ,then1 for the first time1 resort to ,concave ,chiselling1 and with a broad chisel cut away the corners down to the segments previously described4 ,this process requires great care and judgment4 ,fix one end of the work upwards in the bench screw1 with the top side nearest to the operator1 and1 after taking off the corner to a considerable extent1 with the bevelled side of the chisel towards the wood1 shave small pieces away until the segment marks are reached1 taking care to keep the whole curve at right angles to the sides throughout4 ,then1 turn the work1 and dress the corner at the other end in like manner4 ,then file judiciously where required1 and finish with sand-paper4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #aj4 ,pen ,rest4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #aa4 ,flower ,pot ,cross4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #ac4 ,knife ,rest4 ,,no4 #ab4 ,,paper-,,knife4 7,requiring ,exercises #e1 #g1 #ab1 #h1 #i1 #aj1 #bb1 #af1 #f1 #bc1 #ac1 and #bd47 ,cut from ,beech a very straight-grained piece1 #ad in4 long1 #b in4 wide1 and #c_/h in4 thick4 ,plane one side and one edge at right angles4 ,then1 on the planed side1 to the size and shape indicated1 draw the whole of ,fig4 #a of drawings ,no4 #ab1 letting the straight edge serve as the line from ,a to ,b4 ,with the smaller turning saw cut round all the curved parts1 carefully adhering to the drawn figure4 ,then gauge all round for thickness1 as shown in ,fig4 #b1 plane the rough side down to the gauge lines1 and with the knife trim the curved edges where required4 ,with the set gauge1 mark the centre of the straight edge from ,a to ,b1 and guided by that centre1 pare down each corner of the straight edge1 so as to make a straight chamfer on each side about #a_/h in4 wide1 terminating with a sharp edge at the place where the gauge line was drawn1 as shown in ,fig4 #b4 ,pare down the corners of both chamfers1 and pare each side symmetrically1 so as to produce a blade gradually diminishing throughout from a back #c_/af in4 thick to a sharp edge4 ,then pare down the end of the back to a lancet-shaped point1 as shown in ,fig4 #b4 ,round the corners of both edges of the handle1 so as to make them symmetrical throughout1 and also pare the corners of the back of the blade so as to round it on both sides very slightly4 ,file judiciously with a light hand where required1 and then1 for the first time using the scraper1 complete the blade with great care by scraping1 finishing as usual with sand-paper4 ,,no4 #ad4 ,,bowl ,,for ,,toilette1 ,c4 7,requiring ,exercises #e1 #g1 #ab1 #h1 #i1 #aj1 #ae1 #bf1 #ac1 #bh1 #bi1 #f1 and #bd47 ,this model is shown in the perspective ,fig4 #a of drawings ,no4 #ad4 ,commence for it by cutting from ,beech a piece about #e in4 long1 #c in4 wide1 and #a-a_/d in4 thick4 ,plane one side and one edge at right angles4 ,then gauge for a thickness of #a in4 and plane the rough side to the gauge lines4 ,determine by choice which side shall be the bottom of the bowl and which the top4 ,find the centre of the bottom side by drawing the lines from ,a to ,b and from ,c to ,d as shown in ,fig4 #b4 ,repeat these lines on the edges and top side1 using the try square4 ,then1 on the bottom side1 with compasses and square1 draw the whole of the figures constituting the entire diagram shown by ,fig4 #b1 and on the top side draw freehand the larger oval or ellipse diagram shown by ,fig4 #c1 being guided by the points of the guide-lines first drawn for the purpose4 ,then1 with the turning saw1 cut round by the line of the ellipse on the top side1 and finish the edge square with chisel and file4 ,then1 with finger and pencil1 mark a line about #a_/h in4 inside the outer edge all round the larger ellipse4 ,with a #g_/h-;in4 gouge cut out the centre so as to form the inside of the bowl1 the depth and shape being shown by the dotted lines of ,fig #d4 ,having so symmetrically shaped the inside and made it as smooth as the gouge is capable of1 with the round end of the scraper dress as smoothly as possible1 and finish with sand-paper1 before proceeding with the bottom side4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #ab4 ,paper ,knife ,illustration3 ,no4 #ad4 ,bowl for toilette or writing table ,to complete the bottom side1 leave the ellipse in the centre untouched1 and from its outline to the outer edge of the lip of the bowl1 shave with the knife so as to produce in all directions a curve corresponding to those at each end of ,fig4 #d4 ,take a shaving off the flat bottom with the smoothing plane1 so as to remove the compass marks4 ,then file judiciously and lightly where required1 scrape perfectly smooth1 and finish with sand-paper4 999999 ,this ,no4 #ad is a very interesting study and a keen test of application1 care1 and skill1 anything like carelessness being sure to leave its tell-tale marks4 ,,no4 #ae4 ,,hammer-,,handle4 7,requiring ,exercises #e1 #g1 #ab1 #h1 #i1 #bb1 #cj1 #d1 #ca1 #b1 #ac1 and #bd47 ,this study exercises ability in the mastery of elliptical lines1 and in the use of the spokeshave in ,exercises #cj and #ca4 ,cut from ,beech a piece about #ac in4 long1 #a-a_/b in4 wide1 and #a-a_/d in4 thick4 ,plane one side and one edge at right angles4 ,on the smooth side thus produced1 with the pencil sketch throughout the whole of ,fig4 #a of drawings ,no4 #ae4 ,then1 with the turning saw1 cut at right angles to the curved lines on both edges throughout1 and finish the shaping with the spokeshave1 taking care to maintain right angles4 ,then1 on one of the edges1 with pencil1 sketch throughout the whole of ,fig4 #b1 and1 with saw and spokeshave1 shape both sides in unison with that sketch1 still carefully maintaining right angles throughout4 ,then1 with the knife1 shave off the corners so as to make four symmetrical chamfers throughout4 ,then1 with the spokeshave1 remove the corners of the chamfers1 and proceed with the paring down until the required symmetrical elliptical shape is arrived at1 as shown by ,figs4 #a1 #b1 and #c4 ,saw across at right angles at each end to the exact length1 and finish with file1 scraper1 and sand-paper4 ,,no4 #af4 ,,handle ,,for ,,chisel ,,or ,,file4 7,requiring ,exercises #e1 #g1 #h1 #i1 #aj1 #aa1 #cc1 #ah1 #f1 #b1 #ac1 and #bd47 ,from ,beech cut a piece #f in4 long1 #b in4 wide1 and #a-a_/d in4 thick4 ,plane one side and one edge at right angles4 ,gauge for greatest width shown from ,a to ,b in ,fig4 #a of drawings ,no4 #af1 and also for greatest thickness shown by ,a to ,b in ,fig4 #b4 ,plane the rough side and edge down to the respective gauge lines1 thus producing a piece of equal thickness throughout1 with the sides and edges at right angles4 ,saw across one end at right angles4 ,on the face thus produced on that end sketch ,fig4 #c complete4 ,fit a #a_/d-;in4 ,bit to the ,brace and bore a hole in the centre of the same end to the depth shown by the dotted lines in the upper part of ,fig4 #a4 ,plane from ,a to ,c and from ,b to ,d1 thus slightly tapering the sides and edges1 but maintaining right angles throughout4 ,measure from the thin flat end and mark the length of #e in4 ,then1 from the centre of the line ,a to ,b of ,fig4 #a1 describe a semicircle on each side as shown at bottom of ,fig4 #a4 ,with turning saw and chisel1 shape each side of that end to the semicircle4 ,then plane off the angles so far as to make the shape in unison throughout with ,fig4 #c1 presenting sides corresponding to ,fig4 #a1 and edges corresponding to ,fig4 #b4 ,then complete the shape of the thick end with knife1 as shown in ,fig4 #b1 and finish with file1 scraper1 and sand-paper4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #ae4 ,hammer ,handle ,illustration3 ,no4 #af4 ,chisel ,handle ,,no4 #ag4 ,,spoon4 7,requiring ,exercises #e1 #ai1 #ab1 #h1 #i1 #aj1 #cb1 #bb1 #bi1 #ad1 #ae1 #bf1 #ac1 #b1 #h1 #f1 #bd1 #af1 and #a47 ,from very carefully selected ,beech cut a piece #aj in4 long1 #b-a_/b in4 wide1 and #a-c_/d in4 thick4 ,plane one side and one edge at right angles4 ,sketch on the flat edge the complete outline of ,fig4 #a of drawings ,no4 #ag4 ,with the turning saw1 cut to the outline at right angles on the upper side only1 completing with chisel and file4 ,on the shaped side thus produced1 make a centre line as shown in ,fig4 #b1 then the cross lines4 ,then1 with compasses as guides and checks1 mark the outlines of the handle shown in ,fig4 #b1 and1 with freehand1 sketch the ellipse4 ,with bits and brace drill a #g_/h-;in4 hole right through at each centre marked b1 and a #e_/h-;in4 hole at each centre marked c4 ,then1 with the turning saw1 cut to the outline at right angles throughout1 completing the process with gouge1 knife1 and file4 ,then1 in the manner described for making the inside of ,no4 #ad1 make the inside of the ,spoon in unison with the dotted curve of ,fig4 #a4 ,the inside of the ,spoon being thus completed1 proceed with the outside4 ,mark on the edge the outline d d d d d for the under side of the spoon4 ,with the turning saw1 cut out to that outline1 and round with the knife1 as shown in the sections of ,figs4 #c1 #d1 and #e4 ,take care to keep carefully outside the lines when cutting with the knife1 and apply the file1 scraper1 and sand-paper for finishing4 999999 ,the under part of the spoon is a capital exercise in modelling with the knife1 and1 if one process is completed before the next is commenced1 requires no more than ordinary application and care4 ,,no4 #ah4 ,,chopping-,,board4 7,requiring ,exercises #e1 #ab1 #h1 #i1 #aj1 #ad1 #ae1 #bf1 #cd1 #ac1 #be1 and #bd47 ,illustration3 ,no4 #ag4 ,spoon4 ,this especially involves straight and square planing4 ,cut from ,deal a piece #bj in4 long1 #f-a_/b in4 wide1 and #a in4 thick4 ,plane one side perfectly level and one edge perfectly straight at right angles4 ,gauge and mark for width at #e-c_/d in4 ,find and mark the centre line ,a to ,b in ,fig4 #a of drawings ,no4 #ah4 ,set the compasses to a radius from ,a to ,b1 and describe1 with ,a for the centre1 the semicircle shown at the top of the ,fig4 ,fit a #a-;in4 ,centre-bit to the ,brace1 and drill a hole with ,a for the centre1 taking care that it goes vertically through at right angles1 and that there is no splitting when the bit is nearly through4 ,with the small turning saw1 cut round the semicircle at right angles1 and1 with the chisel1 shave off and round the two corners that spring from the semicircle1 also at right angles4 ,then1 measuring from the centre of the rounded end at ,b1 mark the entire length at #af-g_/h in41 and1 with the tenon saw1 cut off at the mark at right angles4 ,then shave and round at right angles the two bottom corners4 ,plane the bottom edge smooth1 and file the edges where necessary4 ,set the gauge at #c_/d in41 mark with it the edge all round for thickness1 and plane the rough side down to the mark1 perfectly level throughout4 ,then1 with the smoothing plane1 take a thin shaving from the first side1 merely enough to remove the marks1 taking care to maintain an accurate level4 ,finish throughout with sand-paper4 999999 ,the object of deferring the planing of the second side until so late a period1 is that1 at the same time1 minute chipping and roughness of edge on that side1 almost certain to result from the boring and sawing1 are at the same time disposed of4 ,,no4 #ai4 ,,half-,,yard ,,measure4 7,in the original ,sloyd model this is a half-metre measure47 7,requiring ,exercises #e1 #g1 #ab1 #h1 #i1 #aj1 #be1 #cj1 #ae1 #af1 #f1 #b1 #ac1 and #bd47 ,select from ,beech an exceptionally straight-grained piece #bd in4 long1 #a-a_/d in4 wide1 and #c_/d in4 thick4 ,plane one side and one edge at right angles1 both scrupulously straight and even2 then gauge1 mark to a nicety for #a-a_/h in4 wide and #a_/b in4 thick1 and plane to the gauge marks with great exactitude1 thus producing a four-cornered rod of uniform size throughout4 ,saw across one end at right angles4 ,measure from that cut end1 mark the length of #ah in41 and saw across at the mark4 ,then set the gauge precisely at #g_/h in41 and1 passing it along each edge1 mark on both sides for the lines a to b in ,fig4 #a of drawings ,no4 #ai1 continuing the lines from end to end of the entire rod4 ,then1 with the square1 mark across the place for a a1 and there saw a slit on each side down to the gauge line4 ,then proceed to the first exercise in ,obstacle ,planing 7,no4 #be47 ,thus1 pass the smooth plane along each edge from b to a1 as far as the obstacle of the corner will allow4 ,of course the planing cannot be continued into the corners1 but1 whatever is left by the plane must be got out by the chisel and file4 ,then1 on each side1 sketch for the handle1 as shown in ,fig4 #a1 the gauge line1 previously there1 forming part of the sketch4 ,then1 with the turning-saw1 cut out to the sketch and gauge lines4 ,with the knife1 make the chamfers shown in ,figs4 #a and #b4 ,then shave the corners and round the end of the handle1 as shown in ,fig4 #a4 ,file and scrape lightly where required1 and finish with sand-paper4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #ah4 ,knife or ,chopping ,board4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #ai4 ,yard ,measure4 ,,no4 #bj4 ,,scoop4 7,requiring ,exercises #e1 #ai1 #ab1 #i1 #ad1 #g1 #ae1 #bf1 #cb1 #cc1 #bi1 #bh1 #ac1 #ah1 #f1 #af1 #b1 and #bd47 ,cut from ,beech a carefully-selected piece #aa in4 long1 #c in4 wide1 and #c in4 thick4 ,plane one side and one edge at right angles1 with exceptional care4 ,then1 on the smooth edge sketch the outline of the upper side a to a of ,fig4 #a of drawings ,no4 #bj4 ,saw to the outline at right angles throughout1 afterwards correcting inaccuracies with chisel and plane4 ,on the smooth shaped side thus produced1 sketch the outline of ,fig4 #b4 ,with #a-a_/b-;in4 centre bit drill the holes indicated by b b1 right through4 ,saw to the outline all round1 carefully maintaining right angles throughout and1 as before1 correcting inaccuracies with chisel and plane4 ,then1 at the upper edge of the invisible end at the bottom of ,fig4 #b1 find the centre represented by c in ,fig4 #c4 ,fix compasses to a radius from c to d1 and1 from the centre before found1 describe a semicircle1 and from the same centre another semicircle with a radius about #a_/h in4 longer4 ,the centre of the inner of those semicircles represents the bottom of the inside of the ,scoop at f of ,fig4 #a1 and the outer one represents the bottom of the outside at the same point4 ,next1 with #a_/h-;in4 gouge1 make a furrow just inside the outline of the face of the scoop1 as previously recommended for ,model ,no4 #ag4 ,then1 from that furrow as a starting-point1 in all directions1 with #g_/h-;gouge1 scoop out from back to front1 to the depth indicated by the dotted line of ,fig4 #a1 and to the width at front of the semicircle previously drawn on the end1 but gradually diminishing the inner capacity so as to make it smallest near the handle1 in about the same proportion as indicated for the bottom by the dotted line in ,fig4 #a4 ,then file and scrape inside where required1 and finish so far with sand-paper4 ,then1 upon each edge1 draw the outline of the bottom of the ,scoop1 shown in ,fig4 #a4 ,saw throughout that outline at right angles4 ,then from e to f plane all round to the semicircle indicated by the outer line of ,fig4 #c previously described on the end4 ,then1 with the knife1 cut the handle to the section indicated by ,fig4 #d1 and continue the shaping to e as indicated by the shaded lines of ,fig4 #a4 ,file the handle and outside of ,scoop where required1 and finish with sand-paper4 999999 ,the most difficult part of this model is that shaded in ,fig4 #a1 which requires special attention and care4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #bj4 ,scoop4 ,,no4 #ba4 ,,hanging ,,pegs ,,or ,,rack4 7,requiring ,exercises #e1 #g1 #ab1 #h1 #i1 #aj1 #ad1 #ae1 #bf1 #ac1 #ah1 #d1 #bf1 #cg1 #bi1 #ce1 #ci1 #dj1 and #db47 ,from ,deal cut out two pieces1 one #ah in4 long1 #c-a_/b in4 wide1 and #g_/h in4 thick2 the other #ae in4 long1 #a in4 wide1 and #g_/h in4 thick4 ,commencing with the larger piece1 plane one side and one edge at right angles4 ,then gauge-mark to a width of #c in41 and plane the rough edge down to that mark4 ,at the centre of the width draw a line from end1 as shown in ,fig4 #a1 f to f4 ,on that line1 with compasses1 mark the points indicated by a1 b1 c1 of ,fig4 #a of the drawings ,no4 #ba4 ,at each point drill a #e_/h in4 hole right through1 taking great care to drill vertically4 ,with the square1 draw the cross lines at d d1 the intersections with the central line forming additional central points4 ,set compasses to a radius of #g_/h in41 and1 from each of those central points1 describe a semicircle as shown in the ,fig42 then from each of the same central points describe an outer semicircle as also shown in the ,fig4 ,with tenon saw make a nick at each of the four points g1 in each case reaching to the outer of the semicircles1 each nick being strictly at right angles4 ,then1 with turning saw1 follow the line of each of the outer semicircles4 ,then dress the edges all round with chisel and file as required4 ,then gauge-mark all round for a thickness of #c_/d in41 and plane the rough side down to the mark1 evenly throughout4 ,gauge-mark all round for the chamfer1 in the proportion shown in ,fig4 #a1 and chamfer to the mark accordingly1 using the plane for the sides and the knife for the curves and corners4 ,file throughout where necessary1 and finish with sand-paper4 ,the smaller piece of ,deal being to make the pegs with1 plane it on one side and one edge at right angles1 then gauge-mark for a width of #c_/d in4 and for a thickness of #e_/h in41 as illustrated in section by ,fig4 #d4 ,saw across into three lengths of #e in4 each4 ,place them together on their sides1 and sketch one side of each as shown from j to k and l in ,fig4 #c1 leaving the space from j to m untouched4 ,with the try square repeat the lines of this sketch on both sides of each4 ,with saw and knife cut each peg to the sketch1 finishing the whole1 excepting the circular plug4 ,then at the inner end1 find the centre as denoted in ,fig4 #d1 and1 using the same centre-bit as for ,fig4 #a1 describe a circle mark as dotted in ,fig4 #d4 ,then1 with the tenon saw1 cut by the shoulder to a depth of #a_/h in41 and pare the circle with the knife to the shoulder j1 so making a round plug1 a little too large to go into the holes of ,fig4 #a4 ,then1 with the file1 carefully reduce the size of each plug so as to very accurately and tightly fit one hole at a time in ,fig #a1 where wedging must not be tolerated4 ,the perfection of this part of the work is to be tested by ascertaining that the pegs are precisely in a line1 and that each one fits all round to the face of the board into which it is inserted4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #ba4 ,clothes ,rack4 ,having thus fitted each plug to its own hole1 and marked it for identification1 the pegs may be completed4 ,cut down each one1 with the tenon saw1 from k to x1 and1 with the chisel1 pare down from j to k1 first making it square and afterwards slightly rounding it1 as shown in section of ,fig4 #d4 ,with a sharp chisel cut round to the outside of the semicircle for the top of the peg4 ,file this round and then cut the chamfer with the knife4 ,file as required1 and finish with sand-paper4 ,the pegs being thus made ready for fixing1 clean the face of the board 7,fig4 #a7 with the smooth plane1 and the edges and chamfers with sand-paper4 ,then glue in each plug1 using the try square to make sure that they project at right angles4 ,then put the whole away for not less than six hours1 to allow the glue to set well4 ,then1 as each plug has been purposely made slightly too long1 saw off each projection at the back1 and smooth the whole of the back with the plane1 so effecting the finishing touches4 ,to avoid the necessity for nailing to the wall1 get two pieces of hoop-iron about #a-a_/b in4 long and #a_/b in4 wide4 ,to adapt each piece for its purpose1 cut one end round and punch in a nail hole and two smaller screw holes1 as shown in ,fig4 #a4 ,with a chisel cut a neat recess for each iron so that it can be sunk flush with the back1 as shown in ,fig4 #b1 and1 inserting the screws1 the work will be complete4 ,,no4 #bb4 ,,flower-,,pot ,,stand4 7,requiring ,exercises #e1 #g1 #ab1 #h1 #i1 #aj1 #cd1 #bj1 #b1 #a1 #ac1 #da1 #db1 and #ce47 ,this is an especially good subject for straight sawing1 straight planing1 and nailing4 ,cut from ,deal a piece about #bb in4 long1 #f in4 wide1 and #a in4 thick4 ,with the jack-plane face one side and one edge perfectly straight and true at right angles4 ,gauge-mark for #ac_/af in4 thick1 and plane the rough side down to the gauge-line4 ,square one end with the plane1 mark to length shown in ,fig4 #a of drawings ,no4 #bb1 cut with tenon saw to mark1 and square the end with smooth plane4 ,then gauge-mark for thickness of lath shown in ,fig4 #d1 and saw off a shade inside the gauge-lines4 ,in like manner cut five laths1 and plane each to the gauge line4 ,the laths being thus made1 sufficient wood will be left for the supports4 ,make the width of the supports the same as that of the laths4 ,after gauging and planing the supports to depth as ,fig4 #d1 saw off to the #f-;in4 length4 ,square the ends with a chisel and set out on each the distance a a1 ,fig4 #c4 ,gauge to b b1 ,fig4 #d1 and with the tenon saw1 cut to the gauge-line at a a1 and with the knife remove the piece between a and a4 ,then mark on each lath the distance the supports are from each end of the laths1 and nail on the laths--the outside laths first1 then the centre one1 and finally the other two4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #bb4 ,flower ,pot ,stand4 ,,no4 #bc4 ,,foot-,,stool4 7,requiring ,exercises #e1 #g1 #ab1 #h1 #i1 #aj1 #c1 #d1 #ae1 #dd1 #cb1 #bi1 #ad1 #ac1 #c1 #e1 #da1 and #db47 ,cut from ,deal two pieces1 one #ab in4 long1 #f in4 wide1 and #a-a_/d in4 thick2 the other #ah in4 long1 #c-a_/d in4 wide1 and #a in4 thick4 ,the former piece is for the laths1 and it must be prepared and cut as in ,no4 #bb1 making each lath to finish #a in4 wide1 #a_/b in4 thick1 and #aj-c_/d in4 long4 ,the wood for the support must now be proceeded with4 ,plane one side and one edge at right angles1 and gauge-mark for width of #c in4 and thickness of #a-g_/h in4 ,plane the rough side and edge down to the gauge-marks4 ,then saw through the centre so as to make two pieces of #g_/h in4 thickness each4 ,place the pieces side by side1 and nail them together with two #a-a_/b-;in4 wrought nails1 so that both pieces can be operated upon together4 ,then draw on one outer side the diagram shown on the unshaded part of ,fig4 #a of drawings ,no4 #bc1 and1 with the aid of try-square and compasses1 repeat the diagram on the other outer side4 ,then cut off each end nearly to the end lines of the diagrams1 and1 with the smoothing plane1 finish at perfect right angles4 ,then1 with a #e_/h-;in4 centre-bit1 drill at the spots marked a a on each diagram1 penetrating on one side a little more than an inch1 and finishing by drilling from the other side in precise unison4 ,the drilling throughout must be exactly vertical4 ,then proceed with the arch shown in ,fig4 #a1 with the turning saw cutting out the three semicircles1 which finish with gouge and file1 taking care to maintain right angles at every point4 ,then separate the pieces1 smooth each face with the smoothing plane1 and the circular parts with file and sand-paper4 ,the respective parts being now complete1 mark on each lath the distance the supports are from the ends shown in ,fig4 #b4 ,then nail on the laths1 b b first1 c next1 and the others afterwards4 ,then1 having first taken care to punch down all the nails sufficiently1 plane a few shavings off the tops of the laths to make them clean and level4 999999 ,if the laths are well and truly nailed on1 their ends should be in perfect line4 ,any defect in that respect must be remedied by carefully and judiciously planing2 but the perfection of work is when no such planing is necessary4 ,,no4 #bd4 ,,book-,,carrier4 7,requiring ,exercises #e1 #ab1 #h1 #i1 #aj1 #c1 #d1 #ae1 #dd1 #cb1 #bi1 #ad1 #ac1 #c1 #e1 #da1 and #db47 ,this is made partly in hard and partly in soft wood4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #bc4 ,foot ,stool4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #bd4 ,book ,carrier ,for the handle1 cut from ,beech a piece #h in4 long1 #b in4 wide1 and #g_/h in4 thick4 ,plane one side and one edge4 ,then gauge-mark for #a-a_/b in4 wide and #c_/d in4 thick1 and plane the rough side and edge down to each gauge-mark4 ,then draw on one side the diagram of the handle shown in ,fig4 #a of drawings ,no4 #bd4 ,with the turning saw1 cut to the inner and outer lines of the diagram4 ,with the plane1 round the top of the handle1 as shown in ,fig4 #a1 and1 with the knife1 round and smooth the other parts1 taking care that all the right angles are strictly maintained4 ,then1 with an #a_/h-;in4 centre-bit1 drill a hole for each screw1 as shown in the ,fig41 and1 with the knife1 counter-sink for the heads of the screws4 ,with the knife1 make the chamfers at the corners of the curves1 as shown in ,fig4 #b1 and finish completely with scraper and sand-paper4 ,the handle being thus finished1 cut from ,deal a piece #bd in4 long1 #f-a_/b in4 wide1 and #e_/h in4 thick1 and plane one side and one edge at right angles4 ,gauge-mark for #f in4 wide1 and #a_/b in4 thick1 and plane the rough side and edge down to the gauge-marks4 ,square one end1 measuring from that end1 saw off at #i in4 ,on the larger piece remaining1 draw the lines a b and a b in the positions shown in ,fig4 #b2 then1 with the compasses1 set off the spaces from a to c and from a to c1 b to c and b to c1 a to d and a to d1 b to d and b to d4 ,then set the gauge to half the thickness1 and with it mark the edges on the four places indicated in each case from c to d4 ,set the bevel to the oblique line at each side of the dovetails1 and transfer this bevelled line to each side at points c c c c and d d d d4 ,then1 with tenon saw1 cut down each line c d to the depth of the gauge line1 and1 with a small chisel1 remove the whole of the pieces between the nicks made by the saw4 ,this will result in two grooves for dovetailed tongues1 as shown above1 a a in ,fig4 #a1 designed to strengthen and prevent from warping the upper half of the holder4 ,the grooves having been thus made ready1 the dovetails must be prepared4 ,from ,deal cut two pieces1 each #i in4 long1 #b-a_/b in4 wide1 and #c_/d in4 thick4 ,plane one side of each and bevel one edge to the pitch the bevel was previously set for4 ,then1 on the planed side1 mark #b-a_/d in4 at one end1 #a-a_/d in4 at the other end1 and take to that width1 afterwards bevelling the edge as before4 ,then fit each of the tongues provided1 driving them tight into their places4 ,when they fit exactly1 glue the planed side and the edges1 and drive them to their positions1 being careful not to split off the ends4 ,then allow time for the glue to set1 and cut off the projecting ends of the tongues and plane them and the face of the board to a level4 ,cut off to exact length1 measuring from the lines a b4 ,then smooth both boards with the plane1 nail them together with two small nails1 and square the ends4 ,then gauge and nick with the saw for the recesses e e1 removing the wood from each recess with the knife1 so making grooves for a strap to pass round4 ,then screw on the handle in the manner indicated by both ,figs41 and finish as required with sand-paper4 ,,no4 #be4 ,,ladle4 7,requiring ,exercises #e1 #ai1 #ab1 #i1 #aj1 #cb1 #ae1 #cc1 #bi1 #ad1 #bf1 #bh1 #bb1 #di1 #ca1 #a1 #f1 #af1 #ac1 and #bd47 ,illustration3 ,no4 #be4 ,ladle4 ,cut from ,beech a piece #af in4 long1 #d in4 wide1 and #d in4 thick4 ,the manner of proceeding resembles that required for ,no4 #ag4 ,plane one side and one edge at right angles1 and draw on the planed side the diagram shown in ,fig4 #b of drawings ,no4 #be4 ,with a #a-a_/d-;in4 centre-bit1 drill two holes right through1 as indicated by the dotted circles4 ,saw round the outside lines of the diagram1 taking care not to obliterate the lines4 ,trim exactly to the lines with a chisel1 gouge1 and file4 ,then mark on each edge the upper curved line of ,fig4 #a4 ,saw to that line without obliterating it1 finishing with spokeshave1 plane1 chisel1 and file4 ,then cut out the bowl of the ladle1 using a small gouge for the edge1 and a larger one for obtaining the depth1 which must be governed by the white section shown in ,fig4 #c1 and finished with file1 scraper1 and sand-paper before proceeding with the under side4 ,when the bowl is thus finished1 mark on each side the curve for the under side shown in ,fig4 #a4 ,saw just outside the line1 and proceed to shape the under side--the bowl to the shaded section of ,fig4 #c1 and the handle to the section of ,fig4 #d4 ,for finishing the bowl1 fix the handle in the bench screw1 and pare with a wide chisel1 afterwards applying the knife for completing the bowl and handle4 ,for the finishing touches use the file1 scraper1 and sand-paper4 ,,end4 ,,turnbull ,,and ,,spears1 ,,printers1 ,,edinburgh4