,bibliotheque nationale de ,france 7,bn,f_/,gallica7 at http3_/_/gallica4bnf4fr7 ,,four ,,years ,,in ,,france4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,four ,,years ,,in ,,france2 ,,or1 ,,narrative ,,of ,,an ,,english ,,family',s ,,residence ,,there ,,during ,,that ,,period2 ,,preceded ,,by ,,some ,,account ,,of ,,the ,,conversion ,,of ,,the ,,author ,,to ,,the ,,catholic ,,faith4 99 99 99 99 99 ,rien n'est beau que ,,le ,,vrai4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,london3 ,,henry ,,colburn1 ,,new ,,burlington ,,street4 99 99 99 99 99 #ahbf4 ,printed by ,a4 ,j4 ,valpy1 ,red ,lion ,court1 ,fleet ,street4 ,,contents4 ,page ,,some ,,account ,,of ,,the ,,conversion ,,of ,,the ,,author ,,to ,,the ,,catholic ,,faith1 ,,in #agih4 ,the author's father and grandfather1 prebendaries of ,lincoln4--,the ,cathedral service described4--,the service in ,magdalen ,college ,chapel at ,oxford4--,the author's mother and his maternal ancestry4--,november #eth4--,school at which the author studies4--,mrs4 ,ravenscroft1 a ,catholic neighbour4--,dr4 ,geddes4--,the author matriculates at ,oxford4--,the ,tale of a ,tub1 its speciousness4--,the ,douay ,translation of the ,new ,testament4--,advice of a schoolmaster4--,gibbon the ,historian4--,defence of the ,reformed ,church4--,argument derived from the exclusive antiquity of the ,roman ,catholic ,church4--,the ,kirk of ,scotland denies that it can be in the wrong1 as strenuously as the ,church of ,england does4--,infallibility4--,richard ,paget4--,archbishop ,laud4--,the author takes the degree of ,master of ,arts4--,in ,deacon's orders3 he fills a curacy in ,lincoln4--,becomes a fellow of his college4--,he resides on his fellowship4--,his probationary exercise4--,his sermon at ,st4 ,mary's ,church1 ,oxford4--,its success4--,he preaches against non-residence4--,decease of his mother4--,the author resigns his fellowship1 and removes to ,lincoln4--,the ,bampton lecture4--,dr4 ,routh4--,m4 l',abbe ,beaumont1 an emigrant priest at ,lincoln4--,a disputation4--,catholic arguments which impress the author's imagination4--,nicole and ,arnaud4--,bossuet4--,ward's errata4--,of the sacraments4--,of purgatory4--,chillingworth4--,of abstinence4--,the author convinced1 after investigation1 of the genuineness of the ,roman ,catholic doctrines1 visits ,london4--,he attends high mass4--,his conversation with ,dr4 ,douglas1 the ,r4 ,c4 metropolitan bishop4--,rev4 ,mr4 ,hodgson appointed to be his priest and confessor4--,his conversion completed4--,the author baptised4--,the author's apology to the ,protestants1 on account of his having been in holy orders of the ,established ,church4--,he receives confirmation in the chapel of ,virginia-street4--,the author's idea that the ,roman ,catholic worship should be by law the established religion in ,ireland4--,anecdote of ,archdeacon ,paley2 who declared that he considered such a concession to the ,irish nation expedient4 #c ,,chap4 ,i4 ,spirit of adventure of the ,english4--,english fox-hunters4--,money spent abroad4--,migration through ,france and ,switzerland into ,italy4--,return4--,the ,english associate together4--,in what consist their reasons for foreign residence4--,distrust with respect to ,napoleon4--,gallery of the ,louvre4--,its dispersion4--,exaggeration of the number of ,english absentees4--,the foreign notions of our motives for travelling4--,reflections on international intercourse4--,nature of the author's observations gleaned during a long residence abroad4--,remarks on the character of the ,french revolution4--,its effects4--,elevation of ,napoleon4--,great results that have accrued from the ,french revolution in the ,west ,indies1 in ,south ,america2 and that may possibly take place in ,africa4 #ge ,,chap4 ,,ii4 ,the author repairs with his two sons to ,southampton4--,they set sail for ,havre de ,grace4--,gale of wind4--,fecamp in sight4--,continue their course for ,havre4--,land after a long passage4--,the routes from ,london to ,paris compared4--,port regulations4--,the ,english ,hotel4--,hotel de la ,ville du ,havre4--,damp sheets1 how aired4--,strong coffee4--,mass4--,douanier4--,extortion by porters4--,imposition respecting passports4--,ill-breeding of certain parrots4--,commissaire de ,police4--,embouchure of the ,seine4--,legend and statue of ,st4 ,denis4--,inquiring peasant-boy4--,french exactness4--,the ,rogation days4--,insolence of vulgar assistants in travelling abroad4--,commodious diligence4--,normandy4--,norman predilection4--,petition in verse4--,the king of ,yvetot4--,rouen4--,magny4--,abstinence1 variously understood1 and how practised4--,road along the banks of the ,seine4--,village of ,st4 ,clair4--,pontoise4--,arrival at ,paris4--,rate of travelling4--,lodge in the ,rue de la ,chaussee d',antin4 #ib ,,chap4 ,,iii4 ,description of ,paris4--,place ,louis ,,xv4--,palais ,bourbon4--,triumphal arch of ,neuilly4--,champs ,elysees4--,the ,louvre4--,its gallery of paintings1 and museum4--,excellent arrangement of the statues4--,the ,italian school4--,progress of the ,french school of painting4--,the ,jardin des ,plantes4--,museum of ,natural ,history4--,menagerie4--,manners of the ,bourgeois4--,palais du ,luxembourg4--,king's library4--,new structure at the ,place du ,carousel4--,pont ,neuf4--,eglise de ,notre ,dame4--,ste4 ,genevieve4--,sepulture in that church4--,church of ,st4 ,sulpice4--,dome of the ,invalides4--,the ,halle aux ,bleds4--,pillar of the ,place ,vendome4--,young ,napoleon4--,duc de ,bordeaux4--,preponderance of ,russia4--,history of the ,victoires et ,conquetes1 c4--,model of the elephant1 designed for the ,place de la ,bastille4--,le ,marais4--,agreeableness of the ,boulevards4--,great advantage of quais4--,hotel ,dieu4--,la ,morgue4--,manufactory of the ,gobelins4--,le ,palais ,royal4 #aah ,,chap4 ,,iv4 ,cemetery of ,pere la ,chaise4--,graves there become a property4--,reflections respecting church-yards4--,computation of deaths1 and room requisite for graves4--,the ,catacombs4--,arrival at ,paris of the author's family4--,palace of ,versailles described4--,royal chapel4--,anecdote of a mandarin4--,orange trees4--,the gardens4--,the ,grand and ,petit ,trianon4--,st4 ,germains4--,its terrace4--,st4 ,cloud4--,its park4--,remark of ,george ,,iii4--,malmaison4--,marly4--,fine prospect4--,stability of the peace4--,meudon4--,the ,dauphiness 7,duchesse d',angouleme74--,manufacture of porcelain4--,st4 ,denis4--,the abbey of ,st4 ,denis4--,sceaux1 popular festivities here4--,castle of ,vincennes4--,duc d',enghien4--,ancient oak4--,confluence of the ,seine and the ,marne4--,the author attends mass in the ,royal ,chapel at the ,tuilleries4 #ada ,,chap4 ,v4 ,celebrated statues4--,various political opinions detailed4--,bargaining4--,two prices4--,english travellers reputed to be very rich4--,parties4--,the military4--,spoliation of the clergy4--,ambition of ,bonaparte4--,prudence of ,louis ,,xviii4--,increase of ,paris4--,explanation of 'a la lanterne4'--,observations on the main streets of ,paris4--,high rents4--,the ,fauxbourg ,st4 ,germain4--,the allied armies evacuate ,france4 #afh ,,chap4 ,,vi4 ,inventory of a furnished apartment4--,the pane of glass4--,the author quits ,paris4--,voiturier4--,berline with three horses4--,travelling arrangements4--,agreement for stipulated sums4--,comparison betwixt travelling by a voiture1 thus agreed for1 and travelling post4--,louis the coachman4--,sup at ,essonne4 #ahd ,,chap4 ,,vii4 ,the family of ,fitz-,james1 settled at ,essonne4--,description of ,fontainebleau4--,the ,forest4--,the ,king's bed4--,the garden4--,marechal de ,coigny4--,tomb of a ,dauphin at ,sens4--,auxerre4--,banks of the ,yonne4--,use of the hot-bath4--,cleanliness of the ,french4--,hilly country4--,vintages injured by the cold of #ahaf4--,the coopers in activity4--,the ,plain of the ,saone4--,coche d'eau4--,tournus4--,image of the ,virgin4--,arrival at ,lyons4--,fete de ,st4 ,louis4--,the ,cathedral4--,place ,bellecour4--,cathedral at ,vienne4--,the ,isere4--,valence4--,memoranda discovered at the ',grand ,monarque' ,inn4--,country of the olive4--,flat roofs4--,bad inns4--,triumphal arch at ,orange4 #aic ,,chap4 ,,viii4 ,the entrance into ,avignon4--,the ,place de la ,comedie4--,warm baths4--,expense of the journey from ,paris to ,avignon4--,a negociant serves for a banker4--,the ,duke of ,gloucester passes through ,avignon4--,imprisonment of the hostess4--,m4 ,moulin4--,visit paid by the author to the ,prefect4--,also to the ,mayor2 an old noble4--,his confiscated house repurchased4--,the author inspects various houses4--,conditions of tenure4--,description of the house which he takes4--,he furnishes it4--,observations on ,french trades-people4 #baj ,,chap4 ,,ix4 ,description of ,avignon4--,the city walls4--,closing of the gates4--,inconvenience of this custom4--,public walk near the ,rhone4--,tolls of the bridge4--,building of the bridge over the ,rhone4--,st4 ,benezet4--,of miracles4--,inundations4--,the ,rock of ,avignon4--,palace of the ,popes4--,cathedral4--,the ,glaciere ,tower4--,horrid history relating to it4--,avignon participated in the calamities of the revolution4--,conduct of the vice-legate4--,department of ,vaucluse1 of what it consists4--,view from the summit of the ,rock4--,chateau and town of ,villeneuve4--,impressions left by the proscriptions and confiscations4--,rue ,calade4--,public ,library4--,museum4--,infirmary4--,jesui ts' ,college4--,stone of which the palace and the city walls were built4 #bai ,,chap4 ,x4 ,english families4--,the ,pretender4--,further account of the ,revolution4--,the revolutionary tribunal4--,condemnation of a mother and son4--,present state of society at ,avignon4--,fetes and card parties4--,the author's tea-parties and dinners4--,contrast betwixt ,french and ,english cookery4--,mode of invitation4--,balls4--,etiquette of the town4--,difficulty of acquiring a thorough knowledge of the ,french language4 #bcj ,,chap4 ,,xi4 ,education4--,drawing-master4--,other private teachers4--,climate of ,england and of ,avignon compared4--,degree of heat4--,the bise or north-wind4--,rent4--,society4--,avignon inhabited by provincial gentry4--,number of ,french nobility4--,mode of letting farms4--,on what tenure and for what consideration4--,excellent wines of the ,rhone and of ,provence4--,on the duties upon ,french wines in ,england4--,the author sets the example of burning coals at ,avignon4--,dearness of fire-wood4--,domestic economy in ,france4--,comparison of expenses in the two countries4--,amount of savings4--,the author's advice on this head is the result of experience4 #bde ,,chap4 ,,xii4 ,remains of antiquity at ,avignon1 ,nismes1 ,st4 ,remy1 and ,arles4--,visit to ,vaucluse4--,cavern of the ,sources4--,dinner at ,lisle4--,henry ,kenelm1 elder son of the author4--,his birth4--,educated at ,stoneyhurst in ,lancashire4--,the regulations and course of studies at that college4--,he accompanies the author to the continent4--,his scruples4--,observations on the study of the learned languages and of ,french4 #bfc ,,chap4 ,,xiii4 ,excursion to the ,pont du ,gard4--,the author meets with an ,irish officer in the ,french service4--,the stately aqueduct described4--,arrival at ,nismes4--,the ,maison ,quarree4--,its surprising beauty4--,the amphitheatre of ,nismes4--,temple of ,diana4--,the ,tour ,magne4--,frejus4--,remarks on the neighbouring coast4--,the ,protestants of ,nismes4--,supper and a political discussion at the inn 7,the ,louvre7 at ,nismes4--,affray between the ,catholics and ,protestants soon after the restoration4 #bhi ,,chap4 ,,xiv4 ,executions at present uncommon4--,mission preached at ,avignon4--,an account of the ,missionnaires4--,an old ,french officer4--,the author makes acquaintance with the grandson of the ,president de ,montesquieu4--,election of a deputy4--,henry ,kenelm visits ,england4--,on theatres and comedians4--,the author's son returns to ,avignon4--,his journey detailed4--,he copies an ,infant ,jesus after ,raphael4--,fine season4--,ice required at a ball4--,olives4--,artificial grasses4--,haricots4--,the ,french agriculture described4--,vines4--,silk-worms4--,mulb erry trees stripped of their leaves4--,threshing-floors4--,abattoir for slaughtering cattle4 #cja ,,chap4 ,,xv4 ,intended journey to ,italy4--,character and studies of ,henry ,kenelm4--,he resolves on the military profession4--,fair of ,beaucaire4--,visit to ,arles4--,ancient buildings4--,st4 ,remy4--,cross the ,durance4--,deficiency of gooseberries1 strawberries1 c4--,cherries4--,mausoleum4--,triumphal arch4--,biere de ,mars4--,maison des ,fous4--,return to ,avignon4 #cbf ,,chap4 ,,xvi4 ,joute d'eau on the ,rhone4--,henry ,kenelm is seized with fever4--,the disorder at first is mistaken by the physician1 who afterwards perseveres in a wrong treatment although he discovers it to be the typhus fever4--,symptoms4--,delirium4--,the author's second son falls sick1 and is neglected by ,roche the physician4 #cci ,,chap4 ,,xvii4 ,m4 ,guerard1 an old physician1 is called in1 and countenances ,m4 ,roche in his deception4--,guerard's neglect4--,the author is farther deceived1 and the secret kept from him4--,result of this ill-conduct4--,m4 ,breugne1 another medical man4 #ceb ,,chap4 ,,xviii4 ,m4 ,breugne1 on visiting the patients1 declares the truth4--,he gives hope only of the younger brother4--,the sacrament of extreme unction administered to ,kenelm4--,his piety4--,his decease4--,visits of condolence4--,the funeral4--,his monument4--,resemblance which an antique bust has to the deceased youth4--,consolation4--,affecting vision1 luminous1 and similar to others on record4--,arguments and doctrine relating thereunto4 #cfe ,,chap4 ,,xix4 ,m4 ,breugne detains the author in conversation until the funeral has quitted the house4--,zeal of ,m4 ,breugne for the recovery of the remaining patient4--,moment of anxiety4--,success of ,m4 ,breugne's treatment4--,convalescence4--,care in the administering diet1 as well as medicines4--,the author engages a voiture for his projected journey4--,passports4 #chb ,,chap4 ,,xx4 ,the author narrates the circumstances of a dream1 which coincide with his subsequent history4--,st4 ,clair4--,the author's sentiments4--,his idea of a rule or mode of living4 #cid ,,chap4 ,,xxi4 ,the author and his family quit ,avignon4--,antoine accompanies them4--,his history4--,orgon4--,aix4--,the baths described4--,arrival at ,marseilles4--,the ,hotel de ,ville4--,curiosities4--,bad inns4--,romantic approach to ,toulon4--,description of that fine sea-port4--,the ,mediterranean4--,hyeres4--,frejus4--,th e ,foret d',estrelles4--,danger of being overturned in crossing a river4--,arrival at ,cannes4 #djc ,,chap4 ,,xxii4 ,journey to ,nice continued4--,antoine's amusing account of the ,rhone4--,spot on which ,napoleon landed from ,elba4--,antibes4--,the river ,var is the limit of ,france on this route4--,douanier4--,passage of the wooden bridge4--,nice4--,quarter of ,la ,croix de ,marbre4--,the author rents a house4--,his landlord is a ,french general4--,account of this officer4--,carnival4 #dbj ,,chap4 ,,xxiii4 ,description of ,nice4--,place ,victor4--,the ,corso and ,terrace4--,details of the ,carnival4--,franciscan friars4--,devotional exercises4--,stations for their observance during ,lent4--,the orange tree4--,its blossoms4--,its fruit4--,english ,protestants build a chapel at ,nice4--,the port of ,nice4--,villefranche4--,galley slaves4--,the cathedral4--,marshal ,massena4--,the author departs for the ,col de ,tende on his way to ,italy4 #dcb 99 99 99 99 99 ,,some ,,account ,,of ,,the ,,conversion ,,of ,,the ,,author ,,to ,,the ,,catholic ,,faith1 ,,in #agih4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,some ,,account1 c4 c4 ,eight and twenty years ago1 when ,i became a catholic1 ,i was told that ,i owed it1 both to those whom ,i had joined1 and to those whom ,i had quitted1 to publish something in defence of the step ,i had taken4 ,i answered1 that the former had better apologists1 and the latter better instructors than myself4 ,my advisers were protestants1 who1 having thus defied any arguments ,i might by possibility adduce against them1 were contented with my refusal of the challenge4 ,even at this day ,i consider as utterly superfluous a serious refutation of protestantism1 or a laboured vindication of the catholic faith1 and1 by consequence1 of my conversion to it4 ,some account of this change in my opinions is prefixed to the book now offered to the public1 in the hope of removing the prejudices with which the book may be read1 or1 what would be still worse1 through which it may not be read at all4 ,it is not my intention to enter into controversy1 but merely to state how the thing happened that ,i turned papist at the moment when the pope was a prisoner at ,valence1 when ,rome was in possession of the ,french armies1 and all around me cried out ,babylon is fallen4 ,i must first ask pardon of the ,anglican clergy1 for having engaged in the service of their church so lightly and unadvisedly4 ,if ,i am blamed only by those who have taken1 on this matter1 better pains than myself to be well informed1 ,i shall not be overwhelmed by the number of my censurers2 for the solidity of the ground of the ,reformation is usually taken for granted3 popery is exploded4 ,indeed1 ,i have found the clergy of the establishment to be the most tolerant and moderate of my opponents4 ,some of them expressed their regret1 some smiled1 but most of them respected my motives1 and none were angry4 ,the ,bishop1 now of ,winchester1 approved of my acting according to the dictates of my conscience2 said that my conduct was evidently disinterested2 expressing only his surprise1 that a man of sense1 as he was pleased to say he understood me to be1 should be so convinced4 ,such was the purport of his lordship's observations1 which was1 as probably it was intended1 repeated to me4 ,his brother1 ,precentor of ,lincoln1 continued still to be my very good friend and neighbour4 ,a few years later1 the ex-governor of ---- said1 in speaking of me1--,i knew his father well2 a very worthy man3 but this young man1 they tell me1 has taken an odd turn2 but ,i will return his visit when ,i get out again4 ,he did not1 however1 get out again3 he had been ill for some days2 feeling himself dying1 he called for a glass of wine and water1 drank it off1 returned the glass to his servant1 shook the man by the hand1 and saying kindly1 ,good b'ye1 ,john6 threw himself back in his bed and expired1 at the age of more than fourscore years4 ,here was no odd turn2 the coolness with which his excellency met the grim king1 was generally admired4 ,but ,i am making a long ,preface to a short ,work2 ,i must begin with my infancy1 for reasons which the story of that infancy will explain4 ,i was born on the #bast ,october1 #agfh4 ,my father was prebendary of the cathedral church of ,lincoln1 as his father had been before him4 ,my grandfather's prebend was a very good1 or1 as they say1 a very fat one2 my father's prebend was but a lean one1 but he had sense enough to be a doctor in divinity1 whereas my grandfather had sense enough not to be a doctor in divinity4 ,they both rest behind the high altar of the cathedral with their wives4 ,so accustomed are we to a married clergy1 that we are not at all surprised to see them1 during life1 with their wives and children2 and in death it is perfectly decent that the husband and wife should repose together4 ,all this is natural and in order1 to those who are used to it4 ,but the feeling of catholics on this subject is very different4 ,the story of the poor seminarist of ,douay1 in the #agth century1 is an instance3 he went to ,england on a visit to his friends2 on his return to the seminary1 he was asked ,quid vidisti8 ,he mentioned what had most excited his astonishment3 ,vidi episcopos1 et episcopas1 et episcopatulos4 ,a ,french emigrant priest entered my house one day1 bursting with laughter3 ,why do you laugh1 ,m4 l',abbe8 said ,i4--,i have just met the ,rev4 ,mr4 ---- with the first volume of his theological works in his arms4--,what is there to laugh at in that8--,he was carrying the eldest of his children1--,la coutume fait tout1 said ,i3 you see the ,rev4 ,mr4 ---- is not ashamed4 ,marriage is allowed to the priests1 though not to the bishops of the ,greek church4 ,i think the catholic discipline is the best4 ,the merriment of ,m4 l',abbe was excited1 ,i am inclined to believe1 not so much by a sense of the incongruous and ridiculous in the very natural scene he had just before witnessed1 as by his own joke--le premier tome de ses oeuvres theologiques4 ,my father's house1 in which ,i was born1 was so near the cathedral1 that my grandmother1 good woman6 when confined to her chamber by illness1 was wont1 with her ,anglican translation of the ,bible1 and ,book of ,common ,prayer on the table1 before her1 to go through the service along with the choir1 by the help of the chant and of the organ1 which she heard very plainly4 ,from my earliest years1 my mother took me regularly every ,sunday to the cathedral service1 in which there is some degree of pomp and solemnity4 ,the table at the east end of the church is covered with a cloth of red velvet3 on it are placed two large candlesticks1 the candles in which are lighted at even-song from ,martinmas to ,candlemas1 and the choir is illumined by a sufficient number of wax tapers4 ,the litanies are not said by the minister in his desk1 but chanted in the middle of the choir1 from what ,i have since learned to call a prie-,dieu4 ,the prebendary in residence walks from his seat1 preceded by beadles1 and followed by a vicar or minor canon1 and proceeds to the altar2 the choir1 during this sort of processional march1 chanting the ,sanctus4 ,this being finished1 and the prebendary arrived at the altar1 he reads the first part of the ,communion ,service1 including the ,ten ,commandments1 with the humble responses of the choir2 he then intones the ,nicene ,creed1 during the music of which he returns to his seat with the same state as before4 ,here are disjectoe membra ecclesioe3 no wonder that the puritans of ,charles the ,first's time called for a godly1 thorough reformation4 ,at even-song1 instead of the ,antiphon to the ,blessed ,virgin1 which is1 of course1 rejected1 though the ,magnificat is retained1 with its astonishingly-fulfilled prophecy of the carpenter's wife1 all generations shall call me blessed2 at vespers was sung an anthem1 generally of the composition of ,purcell1 ,aldrich1 ,arne1 or of some of the composers of the best school of ,english music4 ,removed afterwards to ,st4 ,mary ,magdalen ,college1 ,oxford1 ,i found1 in a smaller space1 the same ceremonial2 nay1 the president even bowed to the altar on leaving the chapel1 without any dread lest the picture of ,christ bearing the ,cross1 by ,ludovico ,caracci1 should convict him of idolatry4 ,here we all turned towards the altar during the recital of the ,creed2 at ,lincoln this point of etiquette was rather disputed among the congregation3 my mother always insisted on my complying with it2 ,i learned to have a great respect for the altar4 ,whence this tendency of my mother's religious opinions or feelings was derived1 is now to be told4 ,she was daughter of ,kenelm ,digby1 ,esq4 of ,north ,luffenham1 in the county of ,rutland4 ,a younger brother of this ancient family1 in the reign of ,edward ,,iv4 became the progenitor of this branch1 which1 illustrated by the names and the fame of ,sir ,everard and ,sir ,kenelm ,digby1 adhered to the religion of our forefathers down to the time of my maternal grandfather3 he was the first protestant of his family3 he had married a protestant3 he died while my mother was very young1 but she was able to remember his leading her one day to the private burial vault1 which had been1 at the ,reformation1 consecrated for the use of the family in a retired part of the garden1 and in which he was soon after deposited himself4 ,his abjuration does not seem to have carried with it that of all his relations1 at least not immediately or notoriously2 for1 on the approach of ,prince ,charles ,edward1 in #agde1 when my mother was about twelve years old1 the horses and arms of the family were provisionally taken from them1 as being suspected papists3 a precaution not unreasonable if their wishes were considered2 for the children1 as my mother told me1 ran about the house1 singing ,jacobite songs1 among which the following may vie1 in poetical merit1 though not in political effect1 with the memorable ,lilleburlero3 ,as ,i was a walking through ,james's ,park1 ,i met an old man in a turnip cart2 ,i took up a turnip1 and knocked him down1 ,and bid him surrender ,king ,james's crown4 ,it is eighty years since3 twenty years since the publication of ,waverly4 ,the cultivation of turnips1 by which our agriculture has been so much improved1 was introduced from ,hanover4 ,i am much inclined to doubt the fact of my grandfather's having renounced the errors of popery3 his interment in the sepulchre of his ancestors1 the suspicion attached to his family1 as above stated1 the advantage from the supposition of the fact to those who wished to educate his children in protestantism1--these are my reasons for doubting its truth4 ,however this be1 many catholic families fell away from their religion after the battle of ,culloden3 at this time the whole ,digby family was decidedly protestant1 excepting three respectable virgins1 aunts of my grandfather2 and my mother1 under the care of an uncle1 became1 at the age of twenty-two1 the meet and willing bride of a young ,anglican divine4 ,nevertheless1 some rags of popery hung about her2 she was very devout1 and made long prayers3 she had not her breviary indeed1 but the psalms and chapters of the day served equally well3 she doubted whether the gunpowder treason was a popish or a ministerial plot3 the ,r4 ,r4 ,dr4 ,milner had not yet written the dissertation1 in his ,letters to a ,prebendary1 which proves that it was the latter4 ,for want of this well-argued and convincing statement1 ,i was called on to read1 on the #eth of ,november1 while squibs and crackers sounded in my ears1 and ,guy ,faux1 suspended over the ,castle ,hill1 was waiting his fate1--to read1 ,i say1 the life of ,sir ,everard ,digby in the ,biographia ,britannica1 where his character is treated with some kindness and respect4 ,sir ,kenelm ,digby is1 of course1 the next article in the ,biography3 all this while ,i was detained from the dangerous explosions of the fire-works1 which was in part my mother's purpose1 though she had1 no doubt1 her gratification in the lecture4 ,the youth of the present day are quite indifferent to the celebration of the #eth of ,november2 they have not the grace to thank ,god for delivering them from the hellish malice of popish conspirators2 few of them even know that this delicate phrase is to be found in their ,book of ,common ,prayer4 ,but five and forty or fifty years ago1 before the repeal of the penal laws against catholics1 when not a chapel was permitted to them1 but by connivance1 those of catholic ambassadors alone excepted2 before the ,french ,revolution had driven a catholic priest into almost every town in ,england1--the case was widely different3 let the riots of #aghj bespeak the popular feeling of the people towards the religion of their forefathers4 ,here then1 while they sung1 ,o then the wicked papishes ungodly did conspire ,to blow up king and parliament with gun-pow-dire1-- ,i was taking a febrifuge draught1 prepared by maternal caution and family pride4 ,i went every day to learn ,greek and ,latin at the school founded for the use of the city out of the spoils of some monastery abolished at the time of ,henry the ,eighth's schism4 ,the sons of citizens are here taught gratis2 others give a small honorarium to the master4 ,the school was held in the very chapel of the old religious house2 the windows looked into a place called the ,friars or ,freres1 and over the east window stood1 and still stands1 the cross1 la trionfante croie4 ,but this was not all4 ,opposite to the door of the school-yard lived three elderly ladies1 catholics1 of small fortunes1 who had united their incomes and dwelt here1 not far from their chapel1 in peace and piety4 ,one of these ladies was ,miss1 or1 as she chose to call herself1 ,mrs4 ,ravenscroft4 ,now my great grandfather1 ,james ,digby had married a lady of that family3 it followed therefore that my mother and ,mrs4 ,ravenscroft were cousins4 ,my father's house was about a third of a mile from the school3 ,mrs4 ,ravenscroft obtained leave for me1 whenever it should rain between nine and ten in the morning1 the hour at which the school-boys went to breakfast1 that ,i might call and take my bread and milk at her house4 ,some condition1 ,i suppose1 was made1 that ,i should not be allowed to have tea3 but they put sugar in my milk1 and all the old ladies and their servants were very kind1 and1 as ,i observed1 very cheerful2 so that ,i was well pleased when it rained at nine o'clock4 ,one day it chanced to rain all the morning1 an occurrence so common in ,england1 that ,i wonder it only happened once4 ,i staid to dine with ,mrs4 ,ravenscroft and the other ladies4 ,it was a day of abstinence4 ,my father1 to do him justice as a true protestant1 an honest man who eat no fish1 had not accustomed me to days of abstinence2 but1 as ,i had had no play all the morning1 ,i found the boiled eggs and hot cockles very satisfactory1 as well as amusing by their novelty4 ,the priest came in after dinner1 and ,mrs4 ,ravenscroft telling him that ,i was her little cousin1 ,master ----1 he spoke to me with great civility4 ,at that time catholic priests did not dare to risk making themselves known as such1 by wearing black coats4 ,mr4 ,knight was dressed in a grave suit of snuff-colour1 with a close neat wig of dark brown hair1 a cocked hat1 almost an equilateral triangle1 worsted stockings1 and little silver buckles4 ,by this detail may be inferred the impression that was made on my mind and fancy4 ,i believe ,i was the only protestant lad in ,england1 of my age1 at that time1 who had made an abstinence dinner1 and shaken hands with a jesuit4 ,when the rain gave over1 ,i returned home1 and related to my father all the history of the day4 ,this ,i did with so much apparent pleasure1 that he said1 in great good-nature1 ,these old women will make a papist of you1 ,harry4 ,he sent them occasionally presents of game in return for their attentions to me4 ,the wife of the ,earl of ,traquair was also of the family of ,ravenscroft1 and ,lord and ,lady ,traquair1 in coming from or returning to ,scotland1 passed part of a day with my father and mother4 ,dr4 ,geddes1 since so well known1 accompanied his patron4 ,i remember going with the party to see the ruins of the bishop's palace4 ,dr4 ,geddes's conversation was lively and pleasing4 ,he was sure1 he said1 that my sister1 some years older than myself1 was a judge of poetry1 since she read it so well3 and he requested her acceptance of a copy of a satire of ,horace which he had lately translated and printed4 ,i know not if he ever pursued this work4 ,catholic gentry1 every now and then1 made visits to my mother2 ,i suppose1 for the sake of auld lang-syne4 ,amongst these1 ,mr4 and ,mrs4 ,arundel1 afterwards ,lord and ,lady ,arundel1 called on her so soon after the death of my father1 that she could not go with them to the cathedral where he had been but lately interred4 ,i accompanied them1 and1 on entering the south door1 pointed out the pedestal on which1 and the canopy under which stood1 in catholic times1 an image of the ,blessed ,virgin1 under whose invocation the church is dedicated4 ,comparing the behaviour of these gentry to my mother with the conduct of all of the same class1 with three or four exceptions only1 towards me1--,i infer that the best way to be treated by them with common civility is1 to be1 not a convert1 but a renegado4 ,my father died while ,i was yet in the fourteenth year of my age3 in less than three years after this event1 when ,i was not quite sixteen years and a half old1 ,i became a commoner of ,university ,college1 ,oxford2 and1 having kept there three terms1 was nominated1 at the election held immediately after the feast of the ,patroness ,saint2 a ,demy of ,st4 ,mary ,magdalen ,college4 ,i passed the long or summer vacations at my mother's house4 ,during the second of these vacations1 when rummaging among my father's books1 ,i found1 thrown aside among waste papers in a neglected closet1 an old copy of the ,rheims or ,douay translation of the ,new ,testament4 ,the preface to this work is admirable1 and might be read by managers of ,bible ,societies1 if not to their advantage1 at least to their confusion4 ,by what chance the book came there1 how long it had lain there1 whether my father had even ever known of its existence1 ,i cannot tell4 ,the notes are equal in bulk to the text3 they attracted my attention1 and ,i read them greedily4 ,it will be observed1 from the account given of my infancy1 that ,i had been from the first familiarized with popery2 that ,i had been brought up without any horror of it4 ,this was much3 but this was all4 ,i knew nothing of the doctrines of the catholic church1 but what ,i had learned from the lies in ,guthrie's ,geographical ,grammar1 and from the witticisms in the ,tale of a ,tub1--a book1 the whole argument of which may be refuted by a few dates added in the margin4 ,my ,english reading had filled my head with the usual prejudices on these topics4 ,of popes ,i had conceived an idea that they were a succession of ferocious1 insolent1 and ambitious despots1 always foaming with rage1 and bellowing forth anathemas4 ,i now perceived that there was some ground in ,scripture for believing that ,st4 ,peter was superior to the other apostles1 7,simon ,peter1 lovest thou me more than these8 ,a greater charge required a greater love1 argues one of the ,fathers27 and that1 by the consent of all antiquity1 the ,bishops of ,rome were the successors of ,st4 ,peter4 ,of other doctrines ,i found rational1 and what appeared to me plausible explanations4 ,transubstantiation was still a stumbling-block4 ,i talked without reserve to my mother of my book1 and of the impression it had made on me4 ,she had no theological knowledge1 but she had a great deal of religious feeling1 and this feeling was all on the side of catholicism4 ,had she consulted an able catholic priest1 perhaps had she consulted no one1 ,i had at this time become a catholic3 she would have been well pleased with my conversion1 and her own would have followed4 ,for her sake1 as well as for many other reasons1 ,i most sincerely regret that it did not at this time take place4 ,not that ,i doubt of the mercy of ,god towards innocent1 involuntary error1 but because1 when we want to go to a place1 it is better to be in the right road4 ,she consulted my old schoolmaster1 a wise and prudent man1 as well acquainted with the question as the ,anglican clergy in general are4 ,as my mother was perfectly free from poperyphobia1 she proposed the matter at once3 ,henry has been reading this book1 and has a great mind to be a catholic3 you know all my family were catholics4 ,my counsellor1 without looking even at the outside of the book1 put on a grave face1--a tremendously grave face3 ,i had rather give five hundred pounds than that such a thing should come to pass4 ,i well knew the value he set on five hundred pounds1 and conceived an analogous idea of his repugnance4 ,nevertheless1 ,i pressed the book on his notice4 ,all this has been said a thousand times over2 meaning1 and ,i so understood him1 that it ought to have no more weight with me than with others2 though the argument proved nothing but the usual obstinacy of those to whom arguments are addressed4 ,my old master was too wise a man to argue even with a woman and a boy4 ,what would the world think of such a step8 ,what would your father say if he could come to life again8 ,what will become of your education and future prospects8 ,my mother was alarmed at her own responsibility in the passive encouragement she had given4 ,i was but seventeen years old4 ,i did not1 however1 quite give up the point4 ,these people have a great deal to say for themselves4--,you think so8 ,there's ,christianity enough in the church of ,england4 ,a few years later ,i found he thought there was too much4 ,i had subsequent conversations with him3 ,i indirectly consulted others3 ,i still read my book2 but a book of notes has not the effect of a dissertation1 well followed up1 and leading to a conclusion4 ,i found some insurmountable difficulties1 and for the rest ,i said1 ,le roi s'avisera4 ,i had no other catholic work1 and no catholic adviser4 ,i went back to my college1 where other studies occupied me2 yet ,i may say1 ,i never lost sight of the subject4 ,gibbon1 who was a gentleman-commoner of ,magdalen ,college1 a few years before my time1 declared himself a catholic before his twentieth year4 ,he was still remembered in college as a young man who seldom or never associated with other young men1 who always dressed in black1 and always came into the hall or refectory too late at dinner time4 ,he found catholics to help him in the work of his conversion4 ,his father put him en pension with a ,calvinist minister1 to be re-made a protestant1 no matter of what sort4 ,he saw1 and throughout his great work shows that he continued to see1 that the truth of the ,christian religion rests on the authority of the catholic church4 ,the predictions of the catholics are accomplished3 the web of mystery has been unravelled by ,arminians1 ,arians1 and ,socinians1 whose numbers must be no longer counted from their separate congregations2 and the pillars of revelation are shaken by men who profess the name without the substance of religion1 who assume the licence without the temper of philosophy4 ,pity that such a man should have been led away by the spirit of the age1 so as not to perceive that true philosophy is the good and natural ally of the catholic faith4 ,if any grave doctor of the ,anglican church had1 at this time1 attempted to lay the foundations of my belief in his own form of religion1 he would probably have failed in his work2 partly1 because the respect due to such a personage from a youth like me would have hindered that freedom of question1 reply1 and rejoinder1 by which satisfactory conviction is at length produced2 partly1 because ,i should have considered him as bound in honour and interest to maintain his own opinions1 and require implicit submission2 and because also ,i should probably have found1 as ,i have since found1 the arguments1 which such an one would have adduced1 to proceed on misrepresentation1 and to be logically absurd4 ,there are two methods of defending the reformed church of ,england2 one is1 by asserting the right of private judgment2 but this method is inconsistent with the authority of ,scripture1 and with the truth of the promises of ,christ2--with the authority of ,scripture1 because it is absurd to allow to any body of men the right or power to say1 this book is ,scripture1 and this book is not ,scripture1 and to refuse to the same body the right of deciding on its sense in case of dispute4 ,had this body the privilege of infallibility while deciding on the canon1 and were they immediately deprived of it8 ,infallibility--,i dispute not about words3 were they providentially preserved from error during this important operation1 and ever afterwards abandoned to error8 ,common sense and the rules of criticism may enable us to decide on the historical credit due to any work laid before us2 but ,scripture1 the word of ,god1--something more is necessary to men who are thus to arbitrate between mankind and their faith2 and it is absurd to suppose that this something more was taken from them when called on to determine matters of faith1 by the help of this same ,scripture1 united to the tradition of the church4 ,i might make my argument stronger1 by remarking on the length of time which elapsed before the canon of ,scripture was settled3 was the church infallible during all that time1 or only at intervals1 by fits and starts8 ,i will quote the words of ,st4 ,augustin1 a ,father often cited by the ,anglican church3 ,thou believest ,scripture2 thou doest well3 ego vero ,scripturae non crederem nisi me ecclesiae catholicae urgeret auctoritas4 ,indeed1 so difficult is it to reconcile the more than human authority of the ,bible with the right of private judgment1 that ,i believe the historical ,christians1 as they may be called1 to be very numerous1 and daily increasing in number4 ,this right of private judgment is also inconsistent with the truth of the promises of ,christ4 ,he sent his apostles to teach all nations1 promising to be with them1--it must be presumed1 in their teaching1--to the consummation of the age4 ,in the exercise then of that private judgment1 which the reformers of the sixteenth century asserted1 all the ,christian world fell into error3 yes1 all of them2 for ,luther says1 in principio solus eram4 ,the clergy1 it may be said1 pretended to authority1 and even persecuted to the death those who differed from them4 ,persecution is no theological argument1 though it is one which ,calvin and ,cranmer and other reformers did not object to resort to4 ,but the clergy merely pretended to authority3 by the supposed case1 each man's particular opinion is his rule of faith1 and therefore the ,church of ,england is justified in its reformation4 ,but1 by following this rule1 all the ,christian world1 according to the reformers1 had fallen into error4 ,jesus ,christ therefore1 though he promised to be with his disciples to the end of the world1 was unable or unwilling to keep his promise4 ,the other method of defending the reformation of the ,church of ,england1 is by admitting1 that the ,church of ,rome1 as the ,anglicans call it1 has been1 and is1 a true church1 teaching with authority all doctrines necessary to salvation2 that the ,church of ,england1 having purified itself from errors and abuses1 is also a true church1 an integral portion of the catholic or universal church1 with all the authority to such a body ecclesiastical1 of due right1 appertaining4 ,this statement compels the ,church of ,england to assert for itself something like infallibility2 for1 as ,voltaire expresses it1 ,l'eglise catholique est infaillible1 et l'eglise ,anglicane n'a jamais tort4 ,this must be so2 for the authority of a church which may be in the wrong1 must be always questioned4 ,this statement also deprives the ,church of ,england of all advantage in arms 7theological arms ,i mean17 against the dissenters and other reformers3 they turn upon her1 and ask how she is more infallible1 or even more in the right1 than the ,church of ,rome4 ,the ,kirk of ,scotland will no more allow itself to be in the wrong than the ,church of ,england4 ,thus disputes are endless2 appeals to remote antiquity1 instead of uninterrupted tradition1 involve the matter in hopeless intricacy2 and the private judgment of nations has no more weight than the private judgment of individuals4 ,such are the two modes of defending ,england's reformation adopted by the low and the high church parties1 which once declaredly and still insensibly divide its clergy4 ,i have explained both methods1 as they are better understood by being contrasted3 ,i have noted the vice of each1 that ,i may give in part my reasons for rejecting both in due time4 ,till this due time arrived1 ,i was induced to embrace1 and1 for the time1 conscientiously embraced1 the opinions of a high churchman2 and ,i was induced to this by the arguments and example of my friend ,richard ,paget4 ,at the time when ,i became a member of ,magdalen ,college1 he had just taken the degree of ,bachelor of ,arts4 ,a young under-graduate cannot help regarding with some deference one already in possession of the first of those academical honours to which himself aspires4 ,paget was besides three or four years older than me4 ,this advantage of degree and age was not so great as to cause any subjection on my part2 ,i looked up to him1 but1 if the pun may be allowed1 did not suspect him4 ,he1 on his part1 treated me with the greatest kindness and familiarity4 ,he was1 as he said1 the second son of a second son of a second son of a younger branch of a noble family4 ,he had not much given himself to classical studies1 but he was well skilled in antiquities1 including heraldry2 witness the exactitude of his own pedigree3 he was well read in ,english history1 particularly that of the time of ,charles ,i4 with every personage of which he might be said to be intimately acquainted4 ,he had a great love and good taste for the fine arts and for music4 ,his conversation was1 in the highest degree1 pleasing2 it was lively1 allusive1 full of anecdote3 his manner of expressing himself was at once forcible and easy2 his judgment was discriminating1 his temper gentle and equal4 ,i never think of him without regretting his loss2 and he is often recalled to my memory by the benefit and instruction which ,i have derived from his friendship4 ,we used to sit together hour after hour1 cozing3 ,i believe ,i must thus spell the word we have derived from the ,french causer2 no other word has the same meaning4 ,he would take up scraps of paper1 and draw admirable caricature likenesses of the members of the college1 not sparing the person before him2 then a stroll round the walks2 and then1 as we passed by the door of my rooms on our return1 come in again1 and so1 another hour's coze4 ,soon after the commencement of our acquaintance1 he began the studies which he thought requisite as a preparation for being ordained a minister of the ,church of ,england4 ,i had the result of these studies1 which he pursued according to his own taste1 for there is or was no rule in this matter3 great admiration of the character of ,archbishop ,laud2 lamentation of the want of splendor and ceremonial in the ,anglican service2 blame of those clergy who allowed church authority to slip from their hands1 lowering themselves into teachers of mere morality4 ,he gave himself very little trouble about the opinions of the dissenters1 condemning them all in a lump by a sort of ecclesiastical and political anathema2 but he took great pains to convince himself that the ,church of ,england was in the right in its polemical dispute with the ,church of ,rome4 ,he was willing to allow to the bishop of that city a preseance above all other bishops1 not merely on account of the former imperial dignity of the city1 but also on account of his succession to ,st4 ,peter1 who had the same precedence among the apostles1 though the privileges of the apostles were equal1 as those of bishops ought to be4 ,he saved the indefectibility of the church1 by declaring that the ,church of ,rome was a true church1 though not a pure church2 that papists might be saved1 since what they believed amiss did not destroy the effect of what they believed aright4 ,he affirmed1 that the separation of the ,church of ,england from the ,church of ,rome was the pope's fault2 that ,england had not separated from ,rome1 but had exercised its right of reforming errors in faith1 and abuses in discipline1 and approached nearer to the primitive model2 that the pope1 in excommunicating ,england for having done thus1 had in fact1 excommunicated himself4 ,on several points he showed the practice of ,rome to be right2 on others1 to regard things indifferent4 ,many other matters relating to this subject were discussed in our conversations1 occasionally resumed during the continuance of my friend's residence in college4 ,he was ordained deacon1 and some two years after died4 ,in the year #agia ,i took my ,master of ,arts' degree in ,act term1 that is1 in the beginning of summer1 and went to ,lincoln to pass some time with my mother1 before ,i should put into execution a project which ,i had long meditated of a journey to ,france and ,italy4 ,between my ,bachelor's and ,master's degrees1 as ,i had no excuse for non-residence in college1 ,i had been obliged to reside3 indeed ,i was sufficiently fond of the literary leisure which this mode of life secured to me4 ,i had always considered myself as destined to ,anglican orders2 it was the profession which my father had chosen for me1 and ,i had1 in some sort1 prepared for it3 ,i had confirmed myself in high church principles1 and read a little ,hebrew2 but ,i had also studied the ,french and ,italian languages for the use and service of my foreign travels1 as also because it was rather my wish and ambition to enter on the diplomatic career1 if ,i should find occasion and protection4 ,but how could any one propose to himself to pass any length of time on the continent1 agitated1 as it now was1 by the beginnings of the ,french revolution8 ,many ventured to go abroad2 but ,i was alarmed3 the unsuccessful attempt of the king and queen of ,france to escape to ,montmedi had thrown ,france into confusion3 it was evident that a crisis was at hand4 ,i waited4 ,during this time a violent inflammation in my eyes 7a complaint to which ,i had been often subject1 and which will1 ,i fear1 in its consequences1 finally deprive me of sight17 confined me to the house1 and prevented me from reading for some weeks4 ,deprived of the use of books1 at all times my chief employment and consolation1 and compelled to occupy myself with my own thoughts1 ,i passed in review the topics by which men are usually induced to devote themselves to the more immediate service of ,god4 ,my education1 whatever may have been its influence on my virtue1 had been regular1 monkish even1 if any one please to call it so3 the feeling of piety had never been entirely renounced by me2 and ,i now easily brought myself to entertain the hope that1 by entering into the ecclesiastical state1 ,i might be of some use to the cause of religion4 ,the first day that my eye-sight was restored to me1 ,i wrote to the president of ,magdalen ,college1 then bishop of ,norwich1 requesting to be admitted as a candidate for deacon's orders at the next ordination in ,september4 ,the same motives which influenced me to this step1 induced me also1 three months afterwards1 to take the curacy of a large parish in ,lincoln2 to engage1 that is1 to do the duties of him qui curat1 as far as my inferior degree of deacon permitted4 ,the stipend1 about one fifth of the wages of an able mechanic1 was known to be no object with me3 ,i had an income more than sufficient for my wants as a single man1 and1 besides1 lived in the house of my mother4 ,as usual1 in similar cases1 some applauded my zeal1 while others laughed at it4 ,within a few months1 a fellowship became vacant on my county4 ,i went up to college to pronounce my probationary oration4 ,in this discourse1 enumerating the former worthies of the house1 ,i commended our predecessors at the time of the ,reformation for having been of the number of those who did not wish that reformation to be excessive--nimia was the word2 and of those who did not think1 the further from ,rome1 the nearer to truth4 ,the orator1 on this occasion1 is introduced between the first and second course of the grand dinner of the #bb;d of ,july2 his voice may be clear as his stomach is empty3 his task completed1 he is placed at the right hand of him who presides at the strangers' table1 ranged down the middle of the hall1 and is served with the first slice of the haunch of venison4 ,i took the place reserved for me2 and not perceiving that my high church sentiments had displeased any of my auditors1 found the second course of a public dinner1 under such glorious and hopeful circumstances1 an ample amends for being excluded from the first4 ,i was so much pleased with a college life1 that ,i determined to return to my abode in college1 on my admission as actual fellow4 ,i thought ,i had done enough to testify my devotion to the church by one year's volunteer service of the parish of ,st4 ,martin2 for volunteer it was in the spirit1 and almost in the letter4 ,let all those who look for high preferment in the church1 do as much1 said ,i4 ,my mother1 who seemed quite to have forgotten the ,rheims ,translation of the ,new ,testament1 of which ,i was too besotted to remind her1 received my promise to pass two or three months of every year with her4 ,i soon found myself settled in a handsome apartment of the new building of ,magdalen ,college4 ,it is the usage to require of every one1 to be admitted actual fellow of ,magdalen ,college1 what is called a probationary exercise4 ,on this occasion ,i composed a treatise1 bearing for title1 ,the ,christian ,religion briefly defended against the ,republicans and ,levellers of ,france4 ,there was no especial reason for levelling this treatise against the ,french levellers2 but the ,french republic was1 at this time1 in ,england1 the black dog upon every occasion3 my work was a defence of general ,christianity1 upon a plan suggested by the pensees de ,pascal4 ,i had1 however1 my quarrel with the ,french legislators for making marriage a municipal ceremony and permitting divorce4 ,i had not a sense of justice clear enough to blame the ,english law1 for insisting that the marriages of catholics and dissenters shall be celebrated according to the rite of the ,english church4 ,i did not bring forward the remark1 that divorce is permitted in ,england2 nor did ,i observe1 that by the ,french law on the subject1 no yoke was imposed on the conscience1 since no married persons were required to divorce themselves1 but only allowed to do so4 ,i am entirely of opinion that such a law is highly to be reprobated in a civil point of view2 but in what concerns religion1 let each man's conscience take care of itself4 ,but my main grief against the ,french legislators was the plunder and degradation of their church4 ,in treating this matter1 ,i as much forgot1 as if ,i had never heard or read1 that1 not much more than two centuries before this period1 all the bishops of ,england1 7excepting only him of ,llandaff17 and about ten thousand clergy1 were deprived of their benefices1 and sent to beg their bread all over ,europe2 and this1 not because they would not accept a civil constitution1 but because they would not accede to a new religion2 and this1 not in a time of civil tumult1 and under the pressure of foreign invasion2 but at the bidding of a young woman of five and twenty4 ,but tua res agitur paries cum proximus ardet1 was a sentiment pretty generally felt at this time in ,england3 to this sentiment1 more than to any love of their religion1 the ,french clergy may attribute the hospitable reception they met with in ,england4 ,the deed was benevolent whatever its motive1 and in the deed ,i had more than my share4 ,in writing this essay1 ,i struggled1 and1 as ,longinus says1 lashed my sides through two or three pages of introduction1 and immediately afterwards found my composition to flow from me with tolerable ease3 ,i wrote with less difficulty than ,i now experience1 and am surprised that ,i so soon acquired a style by no means faulty4 ,i do not say this for my petite gloriole1 but because it seems a part of my story to give the reader a measure of my juvenile ability4 ,i consulted two friends on the question of publication3 they advised against it1 told me ,i could do better1 and pointed to the first part4 ,richard ,paget also desired me to write the introduction over again1 but did not1 as my other better-judging friends had done1 counsel the suppression4 ,i went to ,london to find a printer3 it was impossible here to sit down to correct2 and ,i made a book of it as it was4 ,valenciennes was1 at that time1 besieged by the ,duke of ,york1 and it was generally supposed that the allied armies were a better bulwark of ,christianity than a shilling pamphlet4 ,the printer told me that ,christianity was a very good thing1 and that nobody doubted it4 ,in ,november following ,i preached before the university1 at ,st4 ,mary's church1 a sermon on the text1 ,whosesoever sins ye remit1 they are remitted unto them2 and whosesoever sins ye retain1 they are retained4 ,i asserted1 that the power of absolving sin neither had been1 nor could have been1 abandoned by our reformers2 defended the power against all impugners and repugners2 and indicated the evil consequences resulting from allowing it to lie in abeyance4 ,after some declamation respecting the horrors then perpetrated in a neighbouring nation1 and some fears respecting the removal of our candlestick1--,i concluded by trusting1 that all whom it might concern would acquit themselves as faithful stewards of the mysteries of ,god4 ,the leading members of the university were prodigal in praise of this discourse4 ,one of them1 afterwards a bishop1 preached the ,sunday following at ,st4 ,mary's1 to assure the university that ,i was in the right2 a confirmation which1 considering my youth and inexperience1 he justly deemed by no means superfluous4 ,another1 whom ,i should be proud to name were there no indiscretion in doing so1 bought the sermon when published2 a compliment which1 my printer told me1 he had not paid to any of those published for many years past4 ,he might do this1 it may be said1 as finding the sermon supremely ridiculous2 but this supposition is negatived by the gracious manner in which1 from this time1 though ,i had not yet the honour of his acquaintance1 he always saluted me in passing2 his high station and character permitted to him this mode of signifying his approbation to one unknown1 and rendered it peculiarly gratifying to me4 ,some1 however1 cried out flat popery2 but the words in which the priest is directed to give absolution in the ,order for the ,visitation of the ,sick1 are so precise2 the assertion of the right in all cases is here so formal2 7for it is not supposed that a physician is to be sent for to determine whether the penitent patient is sick enough to be absolved7 the practice1 in respect to penance1 of those early ages to which the church of ,england appeals1 is so well known2--that the cry of flat popery could not be sustained4 ,indeed1 the sermon bears on the face of it some very outrageous abuse of the ,romish church2 but this abuse is so much a matter of course1 that it would hardly have served as a justification1 had one been wanted4 ,i professed myself contented to be as popish as the church of ,england4 ,one of the heads of the university said to me3 ,the doctrine of your excellent discourse is clearly the doctrine of the church of ,england3 she asserts the right of absolution to be inherent in her clergy1 but the people will not submit to the exercise of the power4 ,this is true2 it is true also1 that the clergy very prudently abstain1 in general1 from sounding the inclinations of the people on the subject4 ,my attempt must rather be considered1 from the place in which the discourse was delivered1 as a sort of concio ad clerum4 ,i have heard of one clergyman who made the attempt2 he preached to his people of the power belonging to him1 as a priest1 of absolving them from their sins1 and of the benefit which they would derive1 if truly penitent1 from confession and absolution2 concluding by fixing a time1 at which he would be at home1 to hear all those who should have any communications to make to him with such intention4 ,this discourse caused a mighty hubbub in the parish2 people did not know what to make of it2 some doubted if their clergyman could seriously mean what he had said3 one old woman did not hesitate to declare she would be d----d if she would tell him all she knew4 ,the confusion ceased in due time2 but the people neglected to avail themselves of the offer of their pastor4 ,some time before1 a book had been recommended to me1 which ,i found great difficulty in procuring2 at last ,i found it in the very centre of the fashionable world4 ,i went into ,faulder's shop1 in ,bond ,street4 ,have you ,pluralities ,indefensible1 by ,dr4 ,newton1 founder of ,hertford ,college8--,it is a book which ,i always take care to have by me1 for the best of all possible reasons1--,i am always sure of selling it4--,i should not have supposed that4 ,who buy it8 ,any clergymen8--,yes4--,what use do they make of it8 ,mr4 ,faulder understood my question4 ,i have forgotten his answer1 but it was discreet4 ,non-residence on benefices with cure of souls1 was one of those abuses in catholic discipline1 which1 more than any other1 tended to bring on the ,reformation2 it is an abuse which that ,reformation has not yet reformed4 ,i read my book on ,pluralities1 and was convinced that they were indefensible4 ,having not yet learned1--perhaps having yet to learn1 that the better part of valour is discretion1--soon after my sermon on absolution1 ,i preached in the same church as before1 to a congregation composed as before1 a discourse1 in which ,i detailed the evils of pluralities1 as necessitating non-residence1 and the appointment of hired substitutes1 improperly called curates1 to perform those duties1 which the principal has engaged to perform1 and which1 unless disabled1 he is in conscience bound to perform personally4 ,this discourse was not heard with the same approbation as the former4 ,religious persuasion is a phrase bandied about by men who have no very accurate notion of the sense in which they employ the words4 ,one cannot be persuaded of a truth3 he may believe that to be true which is not so2 but then he judges it to be true1--he is not persuaded2 one cannot even be persuaded of a fact2 the judgment and the senses are not to be persuaded4 ,in religion1 a man either believes1 or doubts1 or rejects3 if he believe1 his belief1 on account of the supernatural authority to which he submits himself1 is called faith4 ,but1 if in religion there be sects and parties1 he may be persuaded by circumstances to choose one party rather than another2 but this is a persuasion that respects the accessaries to religion1 not the religion itself4 ,if he adopt or profess the religion1 without believing it1 he is a hypocrite4 ,i have laid down these principles by which to try my own conduct during my stay in ,magdalen ,college4 ,if ,i were conscious of any insincerity in my adherence to the church of ,england1 during this period1 ,i would now declare it2 ,i hold myself bound to tell the truth1 and not intentionally to lead the reader into any misapprehension4 ,i had certainly committed a great fault in not prosecuting the inquiry begun by the reading of the ,rheims ,translation of the ,new ,testament3 it was the fault of my boyhood1--a fault of which1 on human grounds even1 ,i have but too much cause to repent4 ,by not bringing this inquiry1 at that time1 to the point to which ,i afterwards brought it1 ,i lost twelve years of my life1 dating from seventeen years old1--a time which might have been employed in diverting my education to other purposes1 in adopting and following another profession1 and in forming other connexions and friendships1 than those which ,i have1 of course1 forfeited by my conversion4 ,but1 during these twelve years1 excepting the last year only1 passed in doubt and research1 ,i firmly believed that the church of ,rome had erred1 not only in matters of discipline1 but also in matters of faith4 ,transubstantiation was the great stumbling-block2 and a church which had erred in so grave a matter was not a teacher to be implicitly confided in4 ,i thought catholics were1 not intentionally1 but in fact1 guilty of idolatry2 and ,i thought the sin pardonable in them on account of the intention4 ,having once set myself at liberty to reject the authority of the church in communion with the bishop of ,rome1 ,i followed1 among the various interpretations of which ,scripture is capable1 that given by the church of ,england1 judging it to be most reasonable4 ,not sufficiently instructed in the distinction between matters of faith and questions of discipline1 ,i believed the differences and points in dispute between these two portions of the catholic church1 to be more numerous than they really are4 ,archimedes said1 ,give me where to stand1 and ,i will move the earth4 ,at ,oxford ,i was on the peculiar ground1 the terra firma1 if firm it be1 of the church of ,england3 there ,i could not move or weigh it1 or see it at a due distance1 to judge of its form or proportion4 ,indifference was hardly to be obtained amidst so many sympathies4 ,an event however occurred1 which removed me to a distance from this scene1 leaving my mind free for an investigation which1 with the opinions and feelings which my friend1 ,richard ,paget1 had taught and infused1 and ,oxford had confirmed1 was soon brought to a fair conclusion4 ,on the #ajth of ,april1 #agig1 ,i received1 by an express at ten o'clock in the evening1 a letter from a physician at ,lincoln1 acquainting me with the dangerous state of my mother's health1 informing me1 that it was hardly probable that on my arrival at her house1 ,i should find her living4 ,in an hour's time ,i was in a post chaise1 and hastened by the shortest road through ,northamptonshire4 ,though obliged to wait at every inn during the night time for fresh horses1 and delayed two hours by being overturned1 ,i got to ,lincoln1 a distance of a hundred and thirty miles1 by seven the next evening4 ,my mother had died at the hour at which the express had reached ,oxford4 ,the estate which devolved to me by her death being freehold1 my fellowship was not tenable with it4 ,i quitted ,magdalen ,college within three months1 sent my books to ,lincoln1 and established myself there in a mode of life very much according with my former collegiate habits4 ,before ,i left ,oxford1 ,i acquainted the president of my college with my wish to be appointed to preach the ,bampton lecture2 he acquiesced1 and desired me to write him word when ,i should be prepared1 that he might propose me to the heads of houses1 with whom rests the nomination of the lecturer4 ,this institution is so well known1 that no account of it here is necessary4 ,the subject of my lecture1 as ,i mentioned to the president1 was to be1 ,christianity proved against the objections of the ,jews4 ,dr4 ,routh1 with that amenity of manners1 which distinguishes him as much as his great learning1 gave me the titles of several books that might be useful to me4 ,while meditating the conversion of the ,jews1 ,i received one day at dinner a ,french emigrant priest and an ,anglican clergyman4 ,the esprit de son etat in the former1 and the total absence of it in the latter1 were equally remarkable4 ,however1 we talked about religion4 ,my ,anglican attacked the catholic on account of certain practices which this one easily proved to be common to both communions1 the only difference being that the church of ,england does not observe its own ordinances4 ,the clergyman would not take refuge in the slow and silent reformation1 by which such deviations are usually excused3 he knew he should not have me for an auxiliary2 he retreated to transubstantiation4 ,here the ,frenchman1 who talked ,english well but not currently1 was soon overpowered by two opponents2 and the ,anglican1 his retreat thus covered by me1 carried off with him the honour of the day4 ,the emigrant was ,m4 l',abbe ,beaumont1 who had formerly been rector of the university of ,caen1 and appointed canon of the cathedral of ,rouen3 he was about to take possession of his stall1 when the order was issued1 on account of the approach of the ,duke of ,brunswick1 that every priest who should still refuse to take the oath prescribed by the civil constitution of the clergy1 should be banished from ,france within fifteen days4 ,he had been brought to ,lincoln by a gentleman of the neighbourhood1 who had retained him for some time in his family to teach ,french to his children4 ,on the death of ,mr4 ,knight1 whom ,i have mentioned above1 he was appointed to the care of the little catholic congregation of ,lincoln4 ,when visiting at my mother's house1 ,i had formerly known him2 and1 on this occasion1 renewed my acquaintance with him4 ,after the ,anglican had taken his leave1 he talked for some time on indifferent topics1 but at length renewed the former conversation with an air1 as if he had recollected something1 though ,i rather suspect he had prepared himself4 ,pray1 at what time did the change take place from your doctrine1 respecting the ,eucharist1 to that professed by all ,christians three hundred years ago8 ,i begged of him to put his question more clearly4 ,if your doctrine on this point be the true one1 it was taught by the apostles1 and received by the first ,christians2 then1 our interpretation must have been introduced at some subsequent period3 ,i ask you to fix that period4 ,there were better reasons than ,i at the time supposed for my inability to give a precise answer4 ,it was introduced gradually during the dark ages4--,in the first place1 gradually--that is impossible3 the question is1 whether the body of ,christ is really or figuratively present3 the people must have known in which sense they believed it to be present1 and would have resisted innovation4 ,do you think it would be easy at this day to make the people of ,england believe in the real presence8--,no2 because they have already rejected it4--,i admit the difference2 but at any time it must have been impossible to change the faith of the people without their perceiving it2 and the controversy1 which the attempt must have excited1 would have come down to our days in works written on both sides3 the memory of the ,arian controversy is not lost4 ,i was struck by the argument and the parallel4 ,he pressed me4 ,what do you call the dark ages8--,the tenth century is called by ,cave1 a learned ,english divine1 seculum tenebrosum4--,berenger of ,angers1 in the eleventh century1 who first taught the figurative sense1 found all the world in the belief of the real presence4--,first8 you forget the apostles4--,it is for you to prove that they taught the figurative sense4 ,st4 ,john ,chrysostom1 who lived in the fourth age1 preached on this subject like a catholic doctor of the present day4--,really8 ,i have his works2 ,i will refer to the passages4--,will you give me leave to send you a treatise on this subject1 entitled ,la perpetuite de la foi de l'eglise touchant l'eucharistie8 ,as ,i was going to convert the ,jews by a ,bampton lecture1 ,i said ,i did not wish to engage in reading a great work in old ,french3 ,i inferred that it was old ,french from the word touchant4 ,mr4 ,beaumont assured me that it was written in very good ,french of the present time1 as also in a very agreeable style3 he told me1 that at any rate ,i should have time to read the tract of ,nicole1 of a few pages only1 stating the argument2 that if ,i did not approve of it1 ,i need not read the ,perpetuite by ,arnaud1 which was the development of ,nicole's text4 ,i assented1 and he wished me a good evening4 ,i immediately referred to my edition of ,chrysostom1 by ,sir ,henry ,savile1 in eight volumes folio1--a master-piece of ,greek typography1 which ,i had bought for three shillings a volume4 ,i had read at hazard some of the homilies4 ,as these are in the form of a running commentary on the gospels and epistles1 it was easy for me to turn to the texts in which the institution of the ,lord's ,supper is narrated1 and to the ,epistle to the ,corinthians in which it is spoken of4 ,i have no means at present of making quotations2 those who are so inclined may refer as ,i did4 ,i showed these passages afterwards to two protestant friends1 who affirmed1 they must be figurative1 because they were so strong for the literal meaning4 ,sacramentarians are obliged to treat in this way the words of ,christ himself3 this mode of begging the question 7for it is nothing else7 showed me the advantage of another sort of argument1 which ,i found in ,nicole and ,arnaud4 ,they take it for granted that if it were certain ,christ meant the words1 this is my body1 in the literal sense1 protestants would give up the cause4 ,in the time of these writers it might be so3 ,i would not be too sure of that in the present day3 ,i think many would reject1 perhaps have already rejected1 the divinity of ,christ1 and his authority to teach such a doctrine1 rather than admit the doctrine itself4 ,i1 however1 was not thus daring3 ,i was prepared to admit the conclusion1 if the premises were proved4 ,unbelievers and catholics are consistent3 protestants are philosophers by halves4 ,the apostles then1 according to ,nicole1 understood in what sense ,christ spoke the words1 this is my body1 c4 and taught that sense to the first ,christians1 and the same sense was delivered to succeeding ages4 ,but1 if this were the figurative sense1 all the ,christian world must1 at some time1 have gone to sleep in the belief of the figurative sense1 and awaked in the belief of the literal4 ,the change1 if there was one1 was effected without the least disturbance1 nobody knows how2 and this1 not in a question of abstract doctrine1 but in one which included the adoration of latria1 or the divine honour paid to the consecrated elements1 in which worship every individual ,christian was interested4 ,arnaud1 in the ,perpetuite1 proves1 century by century1 that the real presence and transubstantiation were believed1 not only by the catholic church1 but by the ,greeks1 after their schism as well as before1 and by other communions separated from ,catholic unity4 ,at this distance of time ,i cannot do justice1 nor could ,i at any time have done justice1 by any summary of mine1 to the force and ability with which these two authors conduct the argument4 ,to them ,i must refer the well-disposed1 the impartial1 the disinterested1 the honest inquirer4 ,the ,french theologians justly hold the first rank amongst all those of the ,christian world4 ,i was now to become acquainted with him who may take his place among the ,fathers of the church1--the great ,bossuet4 ,the church now re-entered on that claim to infallibility which it had lost with me by the supposed mistake touching the ,eucharist4 ,the book of ,les ,variations des ,eglises ,protestantes showed that the protestants1 by their own admission1 had no claim to this privilege1 since they were continually changing and contradicting themselves2 asserting1 however1 the inspiration of the ,holy ,spirit in the enunciation of dogmas and formulas1 which subsequent inspirations correct and amend4 ,la reforme n'a jamais raison la premiere fois4 ,how sharp1 how cutting1 how penetrating1 how conclusive is this sarcasm6 ,that book or section of the ,variations which treats of the church1 ought to be published as a separate tract4 ,i recommend a translation of it to the pious and zealous catholic clergy of ,england2 it would be a good work3 no men know better than they in what sense ,i use the words4 ,quaerimus ecclesiam ubi sit1 says ,st4 ,augustin2 and from the words ,the gospel shall be preached in all nations1 beginning at ,jerusalem1 he infers1 that the church is that body which began to teach at ,jerusalem4 ,of the four marks of the church1 set down in the ,nicene creed1 one1 holy1 catholic1 apostolic1--the first mark is exclusive and indisputable4 ,any church may say of itself that it is holy1 and every good ,christian will wish that it may be so4 ,the church of ,england calls itself apostolic1 because1 as it affirms1 its doctrine is apostolical2 it also calls itself catholic1 or a portion of the catholic church3 but then it is apostolical in one sense1 and catholic in another2 apostolical by doctrine1 and catholic by unity3 then has the catholic church failed1 since its doctrine was lost for so many ages3 then may there be union without communion4 ,it is curious to observe with what facility the ,english church can distinguish between itself and the catholic in a question of persecution or civil exclusion1 and how readily its portion of catholicity1 when pressed by the argument of unity1 is re-asserted and resumed4 ,a protestant ,anglican friend said to me1 one day1 ,we are all catholics2 you are a ,roman catholic1 and ,i am--4 ,he hesitated4 ,what8 said ,i2 an ,english catholic8 ,no ,christian community1 separated from the church1 can claim to be the church2 the date of its separation precludes the claim4 ,prior venio1 says ,tertullian4 ,neither can it be a portion of the church2 community in things sacred being essential to unity4 ,a mark is also given by ,christ himself1 by which his one church may be known3 ,thou art ,peter1 and on this rock ,i will build my church4 ,all antiquity has recognised the pope of ,rome as successor of ,peter4 ,having obtained this view of the subject1 from reading several works of the ,fathers1 ,i gave up the absurd notion of a true church teaching a false doctrine1 and only wondered how ,i could have retained it so long4 ,a church is essentially a teaching society1 and1 if it teach falsely1 it has failed in the very end and purpose of its existence4 ,there is another mode by which it is attempted to save the indefectibility of the church1 namely1 by supposing that1 as there were seven thousand in ,israel1 known only to ,god1 who had not bowed the knee to ,baal1 so there always existed somewhere some protestants4 ,this fancy ,i had never adopted4 ,the church is a city on a hill1 not a candle under a bushel4 ,having recognised the church by these marks1 which are found united in it alone1 ,i admired that ,providence which supplied to the unlearned ,christian or convert sufficient motives for submitting his judgment to the doctrine of the church1 instead of laying him under the necessity of judging of the church by the doctrine3 which1 enabling him to verify the credentials of the ambassador1 makes him confidently and joyfully receive the embassy of grace and peace4 ,in this disposition of mind not much road remained for me to travel1 and ,i followed henceforward the guidance of the church2 studying for instruction1 not for dispute2 to remove prejudices1 and correct misapprehension4 ,communion under one kind1 as at present practised in the catholic church1 is ridiculed by ,swift1 who tells how my lord ,peter locked up his cellars4 ,swift might have added to his buffoonery1 by telling how the same lord ,peter1 many hundred years before ,john or ,martin were born or thought of1 served no mutton to his wine4 ,in the early ages1 it was the use to give the blessed ,eucharist1 under the species of wine only1 to sick persons and to children4 ,while inquiring on this subject1 an ingenious mistake of the ,anglican translation of the ,bible was pointed out to me3 the ,apostle says1 he that eateth this bread or drinketh this cup of the ,lord unworthily1 is guilty of the body and blood of the ,lord3 or being altered into and1 this text can no longer be quoted to justify communion under one kind3 it still remains1 however1 a strong argument for the real presence1 since it would be impossible to be guilty of the body and blood of the ,lord1 if they were there only in figure4 ,he who stabs the portrait of the prince commits an insolent outrage1 but the prince is safe4 ,ward's ,errata to the ,protestant ,translation of the ,bible is a book that will set many matters right in the minds of those who are not averse from conviction4 ,the author was obliged to fly his country on the publication of his work2 as was ,bishop ,challoner1 on account of ,memoirs of ,missionary ,priests4 ,of the seven sacraments1 two are retained under that name by the ,anglican church3 ,i had already proclaimed myself the advocate of what is1 to all intents and purposes1 the sacrament of penance4 ,confirmation is administered by a bishop1 as among catholics4 ,the form of giving benediction by the imposition of hands is as ancient as the patriarch ,jacob1 who thus blessed his grandsons1 the sons of ,joseph4 ,does any spiritual grace follow the blessing of the bishop8 ,if so1 it is a sacrament4 ,the ordering of priests1 in the church of ,england1 is evidently sacramental2 for the bishop1 laying his hands on the person to be ordained1 bids him receive the ,holy ,ghost4 ,matrimony is called by the apostle a great mystery2 mystery is the ,greek word for sacrament3 grace is required to sanctify so important a contract4 ,the church of ,england celebrates it as a religious rite4 ,thus far the dispute about the number of the sacraments seems to be a question of words and names4 ,extreme unction is totally rejected by the church of ,england1 because miraculous effects no longer follow the administration of it4 ,it is not very clear that restoration to bodily health is promised by the apostle1 ,st4 ,james1 c4 #e4 v4 #ad42 but the prayer of faith shall save the sick man1 and the ,lord shall raise him up1 may mean this1 or may mean spiritual help2 doubtless1 however1 the promise1 if he be in sins they shall be forgiven him1 authorises the continuance of this rite4 ,i have also heard it observed1 that it fails in that condition annexed to the definition of a sacrament in the ,anglican catechism2 it is not ordained by ,christ himself4 ,but1 if it was attended with miraculous effects1 it is satisfactorily proved that the apostle was sufficiently authorised in its institution4 ,if the church of ,england will believe purgatory to be a fond thing1 far from recommending the book of the ,macchabees as good for an example of life1 it ought not to allow it to be read in churches at all2 for there it is related that1 after a victory1 part of the spoil was sent to ,jerusalem that prayer might be offered for the dead1 seeing it is a good and wholesome thing to pray for the dead4 ,this was a downright popish practice1 justified by a popish reason4 ,thus ,all ,souls ,college was founded to pray for the souls of those slain at the battle of ,agincourt4 ,of this ancient1 this almost universal1 this consolatory practice of praying for the dead1 ,i shall say no more1 than that it may be inferred from the words of ,christ1 that sins are forgiven after death2 since he says1 all sins and blasphemies shall be forgiven to man1 that is1 are pardonable on repentance2 but the sin against the ,holy ,ghost shall not be forgiven1 neither in this world1 nor in that which is to come4 ,there are then sins that are forgiven in the world to come3 but when8 immediately on the entrance of the soul into its future state of existence8 ,this would be equivalent to forgiveness in this world4 ,after a delay then8 this delay is itself a purgatory4 ,on this head1 the catholic church has defined simply that there is a purgatory1 and that souls1 therein detained1 receive help from the suffrages of the faithful3 that this belief may be abused1 does not prove it to be unfounded1 or vain1 or fond4 ,men abuse every thing1 even the goodness and long-suffering of ,god4 ,they rely on a death-bed repentance3 they rely on purgatory4 ,it is to be feared that many1 by the hope of heaven after purgatory1 have been betrayed into a state of final reprobation4 ,on a death-bed repentance ,st4 ,austin remarks1 that there is but one instance of its assured success1--that of the penitent thief2 and he adds1 very beautifully1 unus erat1 ne desperes2 unus tantum1 ne praesumas4 ,the ,reverend ,father ,o',leary replied to an ,irish bishop of the establishment1 who said to him1 ,mr4 ,o',leary1 ,i do not like your doctrine of purgatory1--,my lord1 you may go further1 and fare worse4 ,amongst its thirty-nine articles1 the ,anglican church has one against works of supererogation1 for the purpose of casting a censure on certain popish practices4 ,the article bears a plausible show both of argument and humility2 but the humility1 taken as argument1 proves too much1 since it proves that our good works are useless to ourselves as well as to others4 ,i will give the reader an instance of a work of supererogation1 in which he will at least be at a loss to discover any impiety4 ,my mother wrote to me at ,oxford1--,i went into a shop the other day to order some ,gloucester cheese2 a poor man was there1 buying a cheese for his family2 ,i paid for it for him3 for this1 ,i hope1 ,god will bless you4 ,my mother was no theologian1 and suspected no more harm in giving an alms for me than in praying for me4 ,every protestant1 who thinks much about the matter1 dresses up a certain bugbear in his own imagination1 calls it popery1 and holds it in horror4 ,i had done thus1 although my high-church principles had hindered me from surcharging the phantom with the usual quantity of deformity4 ,the ,exposition of the ,catholic ,faith1 by ,bossuet1 is well adapted to show the religion of our forefathers in its due proportions and real lineaments4 ,i will own ,i was somewhat shocked at first to hear him talk of ,messieurs de la pretendue reforme3 ,i had not been used to be treated so unceremoniously3 but he could not help it2 the reform was either pretended or real4 ,the council of ,trent1--those decrees of the council of ,trent which relate to matters of faith1 and which are very few in number1 at least comprised in few words2 together with the catechism of the council of ,trent1 composed under the auspices of our countryman cardinal ,pole1--are also excellent works for setting such matters in a right point of view4 ,i know many protestants who1 if they would read these books1 would be astonished at their own ignorance1 which they have as yet neither discovered nor exposed1 because they have talked only with each other1 and have read books calculated rather to excite their passions than dispel their ignorance4 ,such a book is ,chillingworth's4 ,i had formerly been scandalized by the non-observance of the days of fasting and abstinence appointed by the church of ,england3 ,i once got myself laughed at for talking about it4 ,example and roast beef are powerful persuasives1 and ,i continued to do as others did4 ,while ,m4 ,beaumont was carrying on with me conversations tending to my conversion1 he called one morning at a house where1 the breakfast not being removed1 he was civilly invited to eat something4 ,he excused himself because it was the season of ,lent4 ,the lady of the house said1 ,we have no superstitious way of keeping ,lent4--,you keep it in your book1 ,madam4 ,when ,m4 ,beaumont reported this to me1 ,i observed1 ,that pun would not do in ,french4 ,he agreed1 adding1 ,they do not know what is fast2 they know what is breakfast4 ,another superstitious practice is the use of images3 to set the people against this practice1 and against those who practise it1 the word image is lugged in at the beginning of the second commandment3 in the original1 the word is the participle passive of the verb1 and ought to have been translated graven thing1 or any thing graven2 but image was good for the iconoclasti4 ,but ,i cannot pursue any further the railing and raillery continually poured forth in ,england against the religion which all ,england professed for eight centuries2 which those who converted our ,saxon ancestors found to be the same as that professed by the ancient ,britons in all points1 except the time of the celebration of ,easter2 a conformity1 which proves the faith of the church to have been1 through the early ages1 perpetual1 not in respect to the ,eucharist only1 but in the whole body of its doctrine4 ,let this argument be well weighed2 it weighed much with me2 and ,i think ,i shall be allowed to have made out a case1 though ,i say nothing of indulgences1 or celibacy1 the invocation of the blessed ,virgin and other saints1 relics1 or monastic vows1 pilgrimages1 ceremonies1 or holy water4 ,i told ,m4 ,beaumont that1 as he was subjected to the alien act1 ,i would not draw on him the responsibility of receiving my abjuration2 that ,i would go to town for the purpose of making it4 ,subsequent machinations against him proved my apprehensions to have been well-founded4 ,he asked what ,i meant by my abjuration3 ,you will abjure nothing2 you will continue to believe all that you believe at present3 but you can go to ,london1 if you think right1 and the bishop will appoint a priest to reconcile you to the church4 ,on the #agth of ,may1 #agih1 ,i was present at high mass in ,st4 ,patrick's chapel3 it was the feast of the ,ascension4 ,my emotion betrayed itself in tears which1 in a man of my age1 might be regarded as rather a violent symptom2 but it called forth no indecorous signs of surprise or curiosity in those near me4 ,i forgot to inquire at the sacristy the address of the bishop1 and next morning found myself walking in ,hyde ,park1 alarmed at the step ,i was about to take1 and almost undecided4 ,a friend1 who was in my confidence1 met me by chance1 and1 out of regard for my tranquillity1 though a protestant1 encouraged me to persevere4 ,we turned into ,grosvenor ,square1 and up ,duke ,street3 old ,mr4 ,keating informed us that the bishop lived at ,no4 #d1 ,castle ,street1 ,holborn4 ,we please ourselves by calling it the ,castle4 ,i parted from my friend1 and proceeded to the ,castle alone4 ,an elderly1 rather pompous1 duenna-looking woman1 opened the door of the house1 for such it was2 not the gate of a castle3 his lordship was engaged1 but ,i was desired to walk into the dining-room1 which1 no doubt1 served as an anti-room for want of any other4 ,while ,i waited here1 a ,french priest came in1 who1 evidently alarmed at his approaching interview with the bishop1 from whom probably he had something to ask or something to fear1 inquired of me1 ,faut-il faire une genuflexion a ,monseigneur8#a ,i answered1 that ,i was unacquainted with the ceremonial expected by ,monseigneur2 but that he1 ,m4 l',abbe1 had better do as he would on being presented to his own bishop4 ,he took me for a countryman1 but my speech betrayed me4 ,he was called for before me2 this ,i thought unjust2 but in a few minutes after the bishop came in1 and addressed me with1 ,qu'est-ce que vous demandez1 ,monsieur8#b ,again1 thought ,i1 my country is about to be lost to me2 but let us hope for a better4 ,i told ,dr4 ,douglass the purport of my visit3 he1 seeing the affair was one not quickly to be dispatched1 requested me to walk up stairs4 ,we seated ourselves on each side of the fire in an old-fashioned wainscotted room with corresponding furniture1 the floor half covered by a well-worn ,turkey carpet4 ,on the walls1 yellow with smoke1 hung portraits1 which1 through the soot that incrusted them1 ,i hardly discerned to be ecclesiastical worthies2 ,cardinal ,allen1 perhaps1 founder of the college of ,douay2 a ,campion1 or ,arrowsmith1 or other martyrs of the ,reformation4 ,a crucifix was set in a conspicuous place3 over the chimney a little engraving of ,pius ,,vi1 then a prisoner4 ,the bishop was a tall thin man1 between sixty and seventy1 of a healthy look1 with a lively and good-natured countenance3 he wore a suit of black1 not very fresh1 with a little1 close1 white wig4 ,martinus ,scriblerus was proud of being able to form an abstract idea of a ,lord ,mayor without his gold chain1 or red gown1 or any other accidents4 ,i had no difficulty in detecting the bishop in the plain man before me2 for1 being in his own house1 he showed without reserve his pectoral cross1 and ,i saw on his finger a ring in which was set an amethyst4 ,this is a very important step1 sir2 no doubt you have given it due consideration4 ,i gave a succinct account of my studies and motives4 ,may ,i ask1 have you consulted your family and friends8--,my parents are not living3 ,i am their only surviving child4 ,for my friends1 ,i know beforehand what they would say4--,are you aware of all the civil consequences8 ,the penal laws are repealed2 but you will lose your etat civil4 ,i bowed my head4 ,as you are in orders of the church of ,england1 your conversion will excite more than ordinary surprise1 and 7,i say it only to warn you17 ill-will against you4--,i trust not2 people are sufficiently indifferent about such matters4--,perhaps you will lose some ecclesiastical benefice8--,i have proceeded no further than deacon's orders1 and therefore have no preferment4--,but your expectations8--,i must live without them4 ,after a little more probing of this sort1 and a short pause1--,there is a business which is very distressing to those who are not used to it1 as it is very consoling to those who are2 ,i mean confession3 we all go to confession2 ,i1 who am bishop1--the pope himself4 ,you know1 ,i presume1 that you must begin by that8--,i come to beg of your lordship to appoint me a priest4 ,after a little consideration1 ,would you wish your priest to be an old man or a young one8--,my lord1 you know your subjects better than ,i do3 ,i leave the choice to you3 his age is to me a matter of indifference4--,many people think otherwise3 however1 if you will be pleased to call here to-morrow at this hour1 ,i will introduce him to you4 ,i took my leave without a genuflexion1 but with a strong sentiment of respect and kindness for this worthy1 amiable1 old man4 ,the next day ,i found1 in ,castle ,street1 the ,reverend ,mr4 ,hodgson1 one of the priests of the chapel in ,st4 ,george's ,fields4 ,of him1 as ,i do not know but that he is still living1 ,i shall only say1 that ,i had every reason to be pleased and satisfied with his conduct and his counsels1 and that ,i think of him with gratitude4 ,i passed with him a part of every morning of the following week1 except ,sunday and ,thursday1 at his house near the chapel2 and in this chapel of ,st4 ,george1 on the #bfth of ,may1 the feast of ,st4 ,augustin1 apostle of ,england1 was admitted into the one fold1 under the protection1 as ,i humbly hope1 of the one ,shepherd4 ,before ,mr4 ,hodgson took me to the altar1 where ,i was to read1 for this purpose1 the creed of ,pope ,pius ,v1 he inquired how baptism was administered in the ,church of ,england4 ,i told him1 by aspersion4 ,he said1 ,we have reason to believe that baptism is given with you sometimes very carelessly1 and it is a rule to baptise conditionally every convert under fifty years of age4--,how do you administer it8--,by affusion2 and the rule is1 that there be so much water ut gutta guttam sequatur4--,that was very probably not the case in my baptism4--,there are other ceremonies1 not of the essence of the sacrament1 which ,i shall omit4 ,he added1 ,do not suppose that ,i question the validity of your baptism1 if it were duly performed4 ,had you been a ,quaker-- ,even the grave circumstances in which ,i found myself did not repress a slight movement of offended pride1 at its being supposed possible that ,i could have been a ,quaker4 ,had you been a ,quaker1 ,i should have been sure that you were not baptized1 and should not even have received your confession4--,but you do not allow the orders of the ,anglican church8--,true3 but even lay persons are not only permitted1 but enjoined to administer baptism1 as an act of ,christian charity1 in case of necessity4 ,another distraction1 as the ,french call it4 ,not having been used to belong to a tolerated and despised sect1 ,i had felt my bile rise at the word ,quaker2 and now memory recalled the interesting scene in the ,gerusalemme ,liberata1 the helmet1 the fountain1 ,tancred baptizing the dying ,clorinda4 ,i kneeled down1 however1 and the priest poured water on my head1 repeating at the same time1 ,si non es baptizatus1 ,henrice1 ego te baptizo in nomine1 c4 ,i then made my profession of catholic faith1 and was thus reconciled to the church4 ,the next morning ,i received the blessed ,eucharist from the hands of the same priest4 ,it was ,whitsunday3 ,bishop ,douglass was to give confirmation in the chapel of ,virginia ,street4 ,it was plain1 for a reason above-stated1 that ,i had not been confirmed4 ,after breakfast1 ,i walked with ,mr4 ,hodgson over ,london ,bridge1 towards ,ratcliffe ,highway4 ,it is usual for the person confirmed1 to be addressed by the bishop1 either by his name of baptism1 or any other at his choice3 ,i took the name of ,john1 in honour of ,john1 surnamed ,chrysostom1 to whom1 as having removed the great obstacle in limine1 ,i owed the beginning of my conversion4 ,may the good work be aided by his prayers6 ,i have made my apology to the protestants of ,england1 especially to those with whom ,i was engaged1 whose reform was conducted by the civil power1 who are the national church4 ,but1 that a church is national is inconclusive in argument3 a nation may be in possession of truth1 but truth is not national2 and civil power enters for nothing into a question of religious truth4 ,but justice is civil truth1 the genuine attribute1 the appropriate ornament1 the best defence of civil power4 ,let the civil power cease to deprive of their civil rights those who adhere to that religion which the same civil power protected1 encouraged1 and maintained1 from the time of ,ethelbert of ,kent1 down to the reign of the boy king1 ,edward the ,sixth4 ,the religion of the people of ,scotland is the established religion of ,scotland3 a great principle is here recognised3 truth is out of the question2 for more than one religion cannot be true4 ,let the principle be applied to ,ireland3 the people of that country still adhere to the ancient faith2 let it be established there for them3 to make them good subjects it is only necessary to treat them as such4 ,men quarrel not about religion2 there is nothing about which they are more indifferent1 when the state does not quarrel with them about it2 and every statesman1 every reader of history1 knows that1 for the uses of the state1 the catholic religion is at least as good as any other4 ,extravagant as this project of establishing the catholic religion in ,ireland will seem to those who like to hear reason when they are determined1 because then reason can do no harm2--ridiculous1 and even insolent as it will appear to the maintainers of protestant ascendency1--it is not my project1 nor will ,i take on myself the undivided responsibility of it4 ,it is the proposition of a much wiser man4 ,when ,i lived at ,lincoln1 after the death of my mother1 the celebrated ,william ,paley was sub-dean of the cathedral3 ,i was in the habit of daily and familiar intercourse with him4 ,one day1 before one of those dinners which are given to the residentiary in a course as regular as that of the dinners of the cabinet-ministers1 the company was standing in a circle round the fire2 ,i stood next to ,paley4 ,he1 almost pushing me out of the circle by a certain turn of his shoulder1 to signify that what he was about to say would not be said out of complaisance to me as a catholic1 while1 at the same time he looked over his other shoulder to assure himself that ,i was listening1--,paley1 ,i say1 began to assert the justice1 the expediency1 and the utility of establishing by law in ,ireland the catholic worship1 defending the measure by the arguments1 and almost in the words set down by me2 ending1 by declaring himself persuaded that the catholic clergy of ,ireland would be well contented when they were well paid1 and the catholic population would1 in that supposed case1 be as good subjects as they are every where else under the same circumstances4 ,the greater part of ,poland is subject to a schismatic2 ,silesia to a ,lutheran2 the ,low ,countries1 formerly ,austrian1 to a ,calvinist3 the sovereigns of those several countries have not yet taken away the ecclesiastical revenues from the catholic clergy1 nor their civil rights from the catholic people4 ,having made out a case1 as ,i express myself above1 ,i mention several topics on which1 for brevity's sake1 ,i forbear to enlarge4 ,i beg to be understood as having a due sense of the importance of these objects1 of each in its kind1 and as entertaining in regard to them the opinion held by the catholic church4 ,i say this the rather1 because many protestants1 after talking with me on religion1 have found me1 as they said1 so reasonable1 that they would not believe that ,i was really and truly a papist4 ,the unreasonableness of the catholic faith exists only in the imagination of the protestants1 who1 in general1 know nothing about it4 ,one of them asked me why the prayers were translated into ,latin3 ,i answered1 that the pope had ordered them to be subtracted in this manner from the curiosity of the good people of ----1 naming the town nearest the country residence of my interrogator4 ,another1 a little perplexed on the subject of unity1 asked1 ,what is the catholic church8 as an answer1 ,i asked1 ,what is the church of ,england8 ,an ,anglican clergyman put the question1 ,what is the mass8 ,i told him it was what he had engaged to oppose4 ,he was a worthy1 quiet man1 and did not want to oppose any thing4 ,in short1 it is only from political causes that opposition1 alienation1 or dispute about this matter arise4 ,foreigners are astonished that a nation1 so wise1 so just1 so tolerant as the ,english1 should disqualify one-third of its people from serving the state1 and perpetuate animosities which are laid at rest in every other country in ,europe4 ,the ,baron ---- was the only man in ,france who saw through the whole matter at once3 ,you have your interests of the ,reformation1 as we have ours of the revolution4 ,it is a matter in which ,i have no interest but that of truth4 ,i have given not as a polemic1 but as a humble narrator1 an account of my motives and reasons for adopting as truth that which has been believed as such by the bulk and great majority of the ,christian world in all nations and in all ages1 from the foundation of ,christianity4 ,i have done this in the hope of removing prepossessions1 and to persuade the reader that he may accompany me abroad without any apprehension that ,i shall enter into controversy4 ,some extraordinary events are related in my narrative1 which a regard for truth has alone induced me to set down1 at the risk of being considered as enthusiastic or superstitious4 ,against such an interpretation1 formed on a view of part only of this work1 ,i am not afraid to appeal to the judgment of those who will take the pains to read and consider the whole4 ,ad ,clari ,montem4 ,clermont1 en ,auvergne4 ,clermont-,ferrand1 ,puy de ,dome4 #bast ,march1 #ahbf4 ,,footnotes3 #a ,is it necessary to bend the knee before his ,lordship8 #b ,what is your pleasure1 ,sir8 99 99 99 99 99 ,,four ,,years ,,in ,,france4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,four ,,years ,,in ,,france4 ,,chap4 ,i4 ,the ,english are assuredly a most enterprising and restless people3 they form establishments at the ,antipodes1 and plant colonies on the banks of the ,loire1 in an enemy's country1 after a war of twenty years3 their merchant-vessels cover the seas1 and their opulent and unoccupied gentry inundate the continent of ,europe3 their hardy mariners search out the north-west passage1 and the idle and curious among them strive1 with no less difficulty1 to discover lakes1 mountains1 and cascades1 unvisited by former adventurers1 ------qua nulla priorum orbita4------ ,english reading-rooms are set up at ,tours and in other great towns2 ,english seminaries of education are founded in ,france1 ,switzerland1 and ,italy2 and ,english horse-races are exhibited at ,naples4 ,fox-hunters and fox-hounds penetrate to covers where even the foxes never saw them before2 where1 coming from their holes1 they gaze quietly upon them2 where there is no sport1 because no pursuit2 no pursuit1 because no flight2 no flight1 because no fear2 no fear1 because no experience of former enmity4 ,the ,french calculated1 with some degree of satisfaction1 that1 during the occupation of their frontier by the army of observation1 the ,english spent as much money at ,paris as was contributed by themselves to the support of that army4 ,at ,florence1 towards the end of the year #ahbb1 ,i was informed by good authority1 that there were twelve thousand foreigners in the city1 of whom seven thousand were ,english4 ,by a migration1 very much resembling the flight of birds of passage1 they usually leave their country in the spring1 and after a few weeks at ,paris1 set off to pass the summer in ,switzerland1 arrive in ,italy in the autumn1 cross the ,apennines before the winter2 the beginning of which season they spend at ,florence3 they go to ,rome for the ,carnival1 to ,naples for a month or five weeks of ,lent1 return to ,rome for the holy week1 and then1 much edified and instructed1 they find their way home1 during the ensuing summer1 through ,france or ,germany4 ,i asked ,lady ,a4 at ,rome1 when she went to ,naples3 ,i don't know2--when the others go3 so much is this route recognised as a matter of course4 ,the route is in truth admirably well traced1 and eighteen months might thus be passed to great advantage by a well-prepared and impartial traveller4 ,rarely however are these ,english sufficiently acquainted with the languages of the countries through which they pass1 to be able to sustain a conversation3 they carry with them their insular prejudices1 their pride of wealth1 their unpliant manners1 their attachment to their own customs1 amusements1 and cookery3 though treated with indulgence and even civil attentions by the governments of the continent1 they are suffered1 rather than received by the inhabitants4 ,for their choice of the objects of curiosity they visit1 and the opinion to be formed upon them1 they are at the mercy of guides and ciceroni3 for society1 they are guided by instinct1 and reduced by necessity1 to herd together4 ,an ,italian lady at ,florence opened her salon for the reception of a mixed company of ,florentines and ,english3 the ,english occupied1 first one corner1 and then a whole side1 of the salon1 their numbers increasing1 but the chasm between them and the natives still remaining4 ,the lady1 fatigued with doing the honours of her house to two separate companies on the same evenings1 and disgusted with these appearances of distrust and resiliency1 invented some decent pretext for receiving no more4 ,observing this propensity in the ,english to associate with each other1 foreigners seem persuaded that ,yorick alone did not quit ,england to seek ,englishmen4 ,i was asked if ,i had been at ,tours1 because there were so many of my countrymen there4 ,my countrymen1 said ,i1 choose well2 ,touraine is said to be the garden of ,france4 ,my interlocutor recurred to the idea with which he had first proposed the question4 ,il y a la tant de vos compatriotes4--,il y en a encore plus en ,angleterre3#c and ,sterne's argument prevailed4 ,many persons of small incomes2 many who wish to retrench their expenses1 but are ashamed of doing so at home2 some for the purpose of having wine and fruit at a cheaper rate2 and some for the sake of a better climate1--pass several years abroad1 fixed at the place of their first choice1 or travelling but little1 and at great intervals of time4 ,the economical residents abroad seldom proceed further from home than to the towns near the southern shore of the channel1 and to those on the banks of the ,loire4 ,some parents take their children abroad to enable them to acquire the use of those living languages1 which1 though very generally taught1 are very rarely learned in ,england4 ,excluded from the greater part of the continent of ,europe during twenty years of revolution and of war1 ,english travellers had been obliged to waste their activity in voyages to the western isles of ,scotland1 or in picturesque tours to the ,giant's ,causeway1 or the ,lake of ,killarney3 some cooled their ardour amid the snows of ,scandinavia1 and others roused their classical enthusiasm by the view of ,salamis and ,thermopylae3 some measured the ,pyramids of ,egypt1 others performed pilgrimages to the ,holy ,land4 ,the peace of ,amiens opened to them1 though but for a few short months1 the road to ,paris1 and the gallery of the ,louvre1 enriched with the spoils of nations4 ,it is not forgotten how1 on the rupture of that peace1 they were arrested1 throughout the whole extent of the ,french republic and its dependencies1 and detained as prisoners of war1 in reprisal of the seizure of ,french ships and citizens throughout the maritime empire of ,england3 succeeding ,english travellers1 twelve years later1 remembered it well3 the crowds1 again attracted to ,paris on the restoration of the king1 fled in all directions on the landing of ,napoleon from ,elba4 ,pourquoi me fuient-ils8 said he3 je ne me repete pas4#d ,perhaps the outlawry fulminated against him by the congress of ,vienna would have been as good a reason for doing again what he had done before1 as the sweeping the seas without declaration of war was alleged to be on the former occasion3 perhaps he regretted the failure of a second opportunity of retorting on ,england1 in this way1 the hatred and insult with which he had ever been treated by its government4 ,at any rate1 the distrust of the ,english travellers was founded on experience1 and the reproach conveyed in this manifestation of it was answered by an ingenious1 spirited1 and in some sort conciliatory pleasantry4 ,after the battle of ,waterloo1 the travellers1 some of whom had retired no further than to the ,low ,countries1 followed in the train of the victorious1 and invading armies3 all were impatient to return to ,paris2 in truth their impatience was not without good cause4 ,all the monuments of the fine arts were now to be dispersed3 the fruits of victory deposited at ,paris were soon to be restored to their former owners4 ,it was evidently the interest of ,england1 that this superb collection should remain within three days journey of ,london2 but the principle suum cuique forbad it4 ,yet the republic of ,genoa had the same right to its ancient constitution as to the far-famed emerald dish1 which ,i saw in the ,hotel de ,ville at ,genoa1 with a piece broken out of it4 ,the union of the littoral to the dominion of ,sardinia is an advantage to both parties3 but then what becomes of the principle which dictated the restitution of the emerald dish8 ,notwithstanding the necessity thus imposed on our travellers of wandering all over ,europe in search of objects once assembled near their own doors1--the nations of the continent are not too much inclined to believe in the bonhommie of ,english politicians2 nor indeed can it be certainly known how far their good will was an ingredient in this1 so called1 act of justice4 ,since the second restoration of the ,king of ,france1 peace1 and the visits of the ,english to the countries to which ingress is no longer prohibited1 have continued without interruption3 residence abroad has assumed an appearance of stability and design4 ,an outcry has been raised in ,england against these emigrations1 and it has been proposed to tax absentees2 a measure which1 in its application to those who take a journey for a few months1 would be at once vexatious and ridiculous1 and in its operation on those who retire abroad on account of contracted income1 would be severe and unproductive2 and which could1 in neither case1 be effected without a partial income-tax4 ,the number of travellers and residents abroad1 though great1 has been much exaggerated3 wherever exact inquiry has been made1 it has turned out to be less than was reported4 ,i could not hear of more than six or eight ,english families resident by the year in each of the three great towns of ,italy1 ,florence1 ,rome1 and ,naples4 ,the ,french1 persuaded that society can no where else be so well enjoyed as in ,france1 feel little inclination to travel4 ,the ,italians1 satisfied that all that is best worth beholding both in art and nature is to be found on their side of the ,alps1 seldom take the trouble of passing that barrier4 ,i speak of the same class of persons1 in both nations1 as that in which the ,english traveller is to be found1--the rich and idle2 for the poorer ,french and ,italians are more adventurous1 and more frequently leave their own country to gain their living abroad1 than those of the lower condition of life in our sea-girt isle4 ,i have therefore frequently been called upon to explain the phenomenon of the ,british spirit of excursion4 ,my friends at ,avignon could hardly believe that curiosity1 the desire of instruction1 the purpose of employing usefully a portion of time which would otherwise be employed in the ordinary routine of life1 were motives sufficient for incurring the expense1 trouble1 and risk of long journeys3 the expense1 they allowed1 might be a consideration of no importance to a people so rich as the ,english2 besides1 they travelled cheaper in ,france than in ,england2 yet it would cost still less to stay at home3 the defiance of fatigue and danger were very gravely accounted for by the supposition of something peculiar to the ,english character1 a certain restlessness and locomotive propensity1 which dislodged them from the centre of repose1 and impelled them to wander in wide and extravagant orbits4 ,the astonishment of the ,avignonais was excessive1 when a lady1 who intended to pass some years in the south of ,france1 coming to visit my family1 and changing her purpose1 returned to ,paris within a fortnight4 ,les ,anglois font tout ce qu'ils veulent3 un voyage de trois cents lieues pour une visite de quinze jours4#e ,like the rustic in the fable1 they waited to see the end of this current of travellers2 and ,i could hardly obtain credit when ,i assured them that1 though some extraordinary degree of expansion was to be expected after twenty years compression1 yet when the present generation should cease1 the succeeding one would still supply the stream4 ,may this stream still hold on in an equal and uninterrupted course2 may no wars arrest it2 no jealousies divert it2 no disgusts dry up its source6 ,the division of mankind into nations is the great calamity of the human race4 ,war1 with all its horrors1 and all its crimes1 7for crimes there must be2 since no war can be just on both sides1 and may on both sides be unjust17 war1 with all its inflictions1 is the first great evil arising from this separation of those who ought1 as creatures and sons of the same ,creator and ,father1 to be a band of brothers4 ,from war results that other great evil1 seen in the administration of the internal concerns of each country2 the government being of necessity entrusted1 for the defence of the people1 with the power of the sword1 the people are governed by the sword of power4 ,hostile prejudices1 the strife of interests ill understood1 false judgments1 and the jargon of languages mutually unintelligible1 fears1 suspicions1 and precautions perpetuate the evil of disunion when the work of havoc and desolation is suspended4 ,short and feverish are the periods of suspension3 they are put out to inestimable profit when the means are employed of making the several peoples of the earth better known to each other1 of softening asperities1 removing misunderstandings1 and conciliating mutual good-will4 ,such ought to be1 over and above the peculiar advantage and pleasure of each individual traveller1 the object of foreign travel4 ,to the furtherance of this object it is hoped that this account of a long residence in ,france and ,italy may in some slight degree contribute3 it is written without prepossession1 in good-will towards the people ,i have visited1 in the conviction that human nature1 though not virtuous1 is in all countries capable of1 and inclined to virtue4 ,for variety of usages1 which makes men appear more alien from each other than they really are1--either it regards things indifferent1 or there exists a good reason for it1 which observation enables us to discover4 ,to me in truth this difference in ,european customs appears so slight1 that1 were it not for the language1 ,i could easily forget that ,i was abroad4 ,omne solum forti patria3 but it requires still more fortitude to have no patria at all1 as is the case of an ,english catholic3 for political rights are included in the idea of patria4 ,having lived between three and four months in ,paris1 and between three and four years in the south of ,france with my family1 ,i have made observations1 which ,i hope may be useful to those who have the same plan of foreign residence or travel1 and not less interesting1 both to them1 and to those who are content with their ,english home1 than the remarks of a more hasty tourist4 ,the care of a household and of the education of children brings the head of a family to the knowledge of many circumstances and combinations which escape the notice of the single traveller2 and intercourse with the society of a place during a sojourn gives some insight into the character1 some perception of the manners and opinions of a people4 ,i have also lived three years and a half in ,italy1 of which country ,i seem to myself to have much to say2 but for reasons that may be conjectured by the reader of this book1 ,i defer my ,italian narrative till the present work shall have undergone the judgment of the public4 ,meantime1 this is a separate composition1 and independent of any thing ,i may hereafter write on ,italy4 ,i have lived so long in the world1 that1 although1 from motives of charity1 ,i wish to have the good report of all1 few remain for whose commendation ,i am anxious1 even as an author4 ,i think it right however1 to request the reader's indulgence for a style of writing by no means current or easy1--a fault owing to the habitual1 daily use of two1 or even three languages3 often does the foreign phrase present itself1 and then the ,english one is to be sought for4 ,i have besides1 for these last eight years1 had but a very sparing intercourse with ,english literature4 ,for the sake of obviating misconstruction of my occasional remarks on political subjects1 ,i think it right1 in this introductory chapter1 to make a few general observations on the ,french revolution4 ,i detest1 or obtest1 against all revolutions1 for two reasons3 change of forms and names1 and1 generally speaking1 of persons even1 does not always produce a change of principles or of conduct2 tyrannical democracies and benevolent despotisms are no new things in the history of the world3 secondly1 revolutions cannot change the condition of the great bulk of mankind1 of persons without property1 of the poor3 poor they must be2 for property is necessary to the existence of society2 work they must1 because they are poor4 ,a man of this class at ,paris1 whom ,i wanted to engage to talk on the late revolution1 cut short the matter by saying1 pour nous autres1 on ne demande a nous qu'a travailler4#f ,that some of them may benefit by a political change1 proves nothing against the uselessness of such a change to them1 considered as1 what they are in effect1 the mass of mankind1 and in reference to the continued duration of the social state4 ,on the #bc;d of ,june1 #aghi1 ,louis ,,xvi offered to the states-general a constitution very much resembling the charter since given by ,louis ,,xviii4 ,what has the ,french nation gained by the refusal of the ,etats ,generaux1 to accede to the project of this seance royale8 ,their church is impoverished2 they are endeavouring to form an aristocracy1 of which destruction has hardly left them the elements2 and the number of electors1--of persons represented1--is now much smaller than it would have been in the ,etats ,generaux4 ,since that day1 little permanent advantage has been obtained1 except the abolition of feudal rights2 but of these1 exemption from taxation had been abandoned2 all that was unjust or grievous besides1 would soon have followed4 ,a deficit of fifty millions of francs caused the revolution2 and in its consequence it has trebled the taxes3 it rejected titles and ribands as unworthy of the dignity of man1 and it has produced a second set of nobles1 and a new order of knighthood4 ,true liberal principles cannot be disgraced2 like religion1 they may be the pretext1 but are not the cause of excesses and of crimes2 but the conduct of the revolution has retarded their spread and influence1 by making every wise and prudent man afraid to trust to the professors of them4 ,after the perpetration of horrors1 on which the human mind cannot bear to look fixedly1 a military despotism is quietly submitted to1 as if nothing but1 res novae1 new wealth1 new power1 had been sought for4 ------,ubi nunc facundus ,ulysses8 ,the leaders of the revolution and of the republic did not recognise the true limit of civil authority3 it has nothing to do but to defend the state against foreign enemies1 and the citizens against each other3 whatever government attempts to do more1 only supplies means of vexation to subordinate agents4 ,they tyrannised over the religious and political conscience of the people by the civil constitution of the clergy1 who1 when their property was taken away1 ought to have been let alone2 by persecutions which belied the tolerance of philosophy2 by oaths of hatred of royalty1 which kept up the memory of the cowardly murder of the king1--that aping of the ,english under circumstances totally different4 ,war1 after the promulgation of perpetual peace1 seemed interminable2 and the offer to assist all nations in the recovery of liberty1 was seen to be a scheme for domineering in all nations by means of civil dissension4 ,these things prepared the way for ,napoleon ,bonaparte1 whose elevation was1 at first1 by no means unpopular in ,europe4 ,he must be admired by the present age1 and by posterity1 as a great man3 he offered himself as pacificator1 and in a few years subjected a hundred millions of ,europeans3 such a force as this1--the arts1 the knowledge1 and by consequence1 the power of those whom he commanded taken into the account1--no man ever yet had wielded4 ,he gave not ,god the glory3 in this he was not alone2 such was1 such is1 the spirit of the age3 his fall was caused by the coming on of the snow and frost in ,russia a week or fortnight sooner than usual4 ,history records nothing equal to his elevation and his fall4 ,that fall must be dated at the retreat from ,moscow2 the rest was but the struggle of the dying lion4 ,the ,french revolution seems like a bloody tragedy1 after the representation of which1 the actors put on their every-day clothes1 and resume their ordinary occupations3 it has disappointed the hopes of the philanthropist1 and delayed the effect of the moral revolution1 prepared long before1 and working in the minds of enlightened men4 ,this sort of revolution is the only one that can be permanent or beneficial to mankind4 ,christianity itself is1 in its influence on civil society1 a revolution of this sort1 and1 in respect to this life only1 has done incalculable good4 ,the great results of the ,french revolution are to be looked for beyond the ,atlantic4 ,owing to the distracted state of ,europe1 a continent1 more abounding than the old world in the means of prosperity and power1 is become independent3 the slaves of ,hayti have broken their chains1 and may carry civilization and freedom to the country of their origin4 ,yet another century1 and ,europe itself may sink into comparative insignificance4 ,but let the wise and virtuous unite in opinion2 and ,europe1 though no longer the proprietor1 may still be the teacher of the new world1 and in the old may aid suffering humanity4 ,,footnotes3 #c ,there are so many of your countrymen there4--,there are still more of them in ,england4 #d ,why do they run away from me8 ,i do not do the same thing twice over4 #e ,the ,english do whatever they have a mind to3 a journey of three hundred leagues for a visit of a fortnight6 #f ,as for us1 nothing is required of us but that we should work4 ,,chap4 ,,ii4 ,on the #bc;d of ,april1 which the ,english now know to be the feast of ,st4 ,george1 though1 before the accession of ,king ,george ,,iv4 who observes that day as his birth-day1 few of them knew the name of their patron or the day of his feast2 such honour have the saints in ,england2--on that day1 in the year #ahah1 ,i arrived with my two sons at ,southampton1 on the shore of that sea1 which on the morrow was to separate me from my native country4 ,the son of the captain 7for by courtesy he is called captain17 of the ,chesterfield packet came to us at the ,dolphin ,inn1 and informed us that the tide would serve at two o'clock the next afternoon4 ,we had hastened through rain and darkness1 during the last stage1 with a grumbling postilion2 for1 though we knew the day1 we knew not the hour of embarkation4 ,the time we had to spare we might have passed more agreeably at ,winchester4 ,southampton1 a very pretty town1 is so regularly built1 that we had time more than enough to see it1 and not enough to go to enjoy the beautiful view from the heights which command the bay1 the channel between ,hampshire and the ,isle of ,wight1 and the isle itself4 ,all this1 however1 we saw from the deck of our vessel1 more advantageously than in what is called a bird's-eye view1 which is only useful when necessary for peeping into the inside of amphitheatres1 and the hollows of ravines and craters4 ,our travelling trunks were sent to the custom-house4 ,a year before1 owing to a discussion concerning cotton yarn1 which ,mr4 ,brougham may perhaps remember1 an old lady1 of seventy years of age1 had been despoiled of a pound of cotton thread which she was taking with her to amuse herself with knitting3 the stockings or garters thus fabricated she would have brought back to ,england1 without the least injury to its manufacturing interests4 ,but1 on such important occasions1 how can discretionary powers be entrusted to custom-house officers8 ,we1 being not knitters of stockings1 on this occasion1 had the good fortune to excite very little of their curiosity4 ,they did not even wish us a good voyage4 ,a boat conveyed us to the packet3 we set sail1 if setting sail it might be called1 when there was hardly wind to swell the canvass4 ,the air was sultry1 the sky was cloudy2 and when we had cleared the ,isle of ,wight1 and night was coming on1 there was every appearance of an approaching storm3 ,captain ,wood even allowed that there might be a puff4 ,i admired the self-possession he maintained1 notwithstanding the troublesome questions put to him1 and expressions of fear and anxiety from the passengers3 answering every one with the greatest civility1 he yet never turned aside from the conduct of the vessel4 ,it is silly in us1 captain1 to disturb you thus3 we might trust to you4--,sir1 my son and ,i are on board3 the vessel cost me three thousand pounds4 ,i drew the inference desired1 and left him4 ,with every inclination1 after the event1 to begin my book with a description of a storm at sea1 as ,virgil begins his ,a,eneid1 ,i forego this attempt at amusing my reader1 for two reasons3 without the machinery of ,juno1 ,a,eolus1 and ,neptune1 the storm even of ,virgil would hardly be raised in dignity above a common occurrence2 and next1 because my storm was really a very moderate one1 hardly sufficient to excite that degree of terror in me1 and of pity in others1 which is necessary to sublimity4 ,in sober guise then1 ,i have to relate that it rained1 lightened1 and thundered2 but thunder at sea1 ,i remarked1 is not so loud as thunder heard on land1 re-echoed by houses and buildings3 and lightning in that vast space does not seem so directly aimed at one1 as when flashed into one's face through the narrow boundary of a window4 ,the rolling of the sea was not very violent2 but the wind drove us out of our course1 and we found ourselves1 in the morning1 to the eastward of ,fecamp4 ,we could with the greatest ease have entered the port of ,dieppe3 ,i proposed to the captain to do so2 but his affairs and his port papers1 which this little stress of weather was not a sufficient excuse for contravening1 recalled him to ,havre4 ,the other passengers also were desirous of landing at ,dieppe2 but rules and regulations1--a phrase which ,i translated into ,english for the benefit of a certain provincial book club1 which had thus entitled its by-laws1 rules1 and rulations1--at every step vexatiously and uselessly embarrass the intercourse of mankind4 ,in the present case we had to employ sixteen hours in working our way back again towards ,havre4 ,the voyage was1 however1 pleasant4 ,we were1 all the while1 almost within a stone's throw of the ,french coast3 we talked with several fishermen3 we seemed to be all but landed4 ,the clouds1 which had so thickly covered the sky1 and poured down so much rain the preceding night1 had passed away to the eastward4 ,in the afternoon1 a brilliant rainbow was stretched across the channel1 and seemed to unite1 by an aerial arch1 the countries of ,france and ,england4 ,our impatience was put to the proof by a calm1 which arrested our progress for two hours3 the elements seemed to have conspired to treat us with a specimen of every sort of weather that can be experienced at sea4 ,at last a breeze sprung up2 slowly we crept along towards the mouth of the ,seine2 and a quarter of an hour before midnight entered the port of ,havre1 after a voyage of thirty-two hours1 the latter half of which was useless to my purpose of coming to ,france1 and would have been dangerous had the storm come on again1 as we were close on the rocks1 and had very little sea-room4 ,the passage by ,dover takes the traveller from ,london to ,paris about a hundred miles out of his way4 ,brighton is the point of the ,english coast nearest to ,paris2 but1 though the opposite harbour of ,dieppe is good1 the embarkation and disembarkation at ,brighton is exposed to all the violence of the winds and waves4 ,the passage from ,southampton may be performed in ten hours1 and ,havre is very little further than ,dieppe from the capital of ,france4 ,before we entered the harbour1 our steward descended to extinguish a large lamp that burnt in the cabin3 he gave us 7that is1 to me and my sons7 our choice of going on deck1 or staying below in the dark3 we loitered1 and were punished afterwards for our delay by breaking our shins against the cabin stairs4 ,the vessel was not allowed to enter the port with a light on board2 a lantern is hung out on the prow4 ,the use of the lantern is evident3 it is not quite so clear why our lights were to be put out3 against an accidental fire this was no sufficient precaution2 had we wished to set our vessel in a state of conflagration1 and run her amongst the ,french shipping1 nothing was requisite but a tinder-box1 or a gallipot of phosphorus4 ,regulations seem to be made sometimes1 in order that those who are in employment may have something to do3 work is invented for places1 instead of places being created on account of work4 ,we waited some little time for the officer of the port1 who was to receive our passports4 ,i stood on the deck1 and looked around on the light-house1 the shipping1 and the lights from the windows2 heard the mixture of ,french and ,english bandied in talk between us on board and those on shore1 and was delighted with these assurances that we were restored to human life and society1 and no longer tossed on the sea1 where1 as ,homer says1 there are no vintages4 ,i quote this expression1 not because ,i am insensible to the beauty of a poetical amplification1 but for three reasons3 first1 to show my learning1--a motive which ,i by no means approve1 but leave it to be appreciated by other authors3 secondly1 because this epithet conveys precisely the reason of my dislike of sea voyages3 ,edie ,ochiltre says1 the worst of a prison is1 that one can't get out of it2 and ,i say1 the worst of the sea is1 that it is not dry land2 an objection in both cases essential and fatal3 thirdly1 ,i wish to make a remark1 which has1 ,i believe1 escaped all former commentators1--that ,homer had probably no more notion of lands in which there were no grapes1 than the ,african prince of walking on the surface of a river4 ,the tide had raised our deck to the level of the quay3 the clock struck twelve2 it was now the anniversary of the birth of my younger son1 and we set our feet on the soil of ,france4 ,the other passengers had announced their intention of going1 in a mass1 to the ,english inn1 where a part of my family1 three months later1 found1 what was to be expected1 high charges2 and1 what was not to be expected1 plenty of bugs4 ,fearing a contest for beds amongst such a number1 7for there were ten or twelve of us17 and the delay of getting them ready for so many1 ,i went to the ,hotel de la ,ville du ,havre1 recommended by ,captain ,wood1 who conducted us thither1 roused the sleeping family1 introduced1 and left us6 ,m4 and ,madame ,marre appeared in night-cap and dressing-gown1 very much resembling 7,i say it with all due respect for very worthy persons17 the caricatures of ,french physiognomy exhibited in our print-shops4 ,madame ,marre told the chamber-maid to show me the beds3 ,i went up stairs1 and on my return was asked if ,i was contented with what the bonne had shown me4 ,i have heard of an old lady who was very much offended by being called good woman2 and the expression la bonne appeared to me a contemptuous one3 such a novice was ,i1 that ,i looked at the girl to see whether she took it as an affront or a compliment2 she was quite unmoved4 ,i told the mistress that the three beds were very good1 and desired to see the sheets3 they were more than damp2 they might be said to be wet3 to have them aired at one in the morning was out of the question2 our resource was to do without them for that night4 ,i know an ,english family who1 arriving early in the evening at an inn in ,france1 and1 as a matter of course1 ordering the sheets to be aired1 were charged1 the next morning1 five francs for fire-wood4 ,our sheets were aired1 on the next day1 without any instructions on our part to that effect1 according to the custom of the country1 au soleil4 ,this sun enabled us to sit at an open window during our breakfast3 for this meal we had ,french rolls1 excellent ,norman butter1 and cafe au lait4 ,the coffee usually served in ,england is considered by the ,french as no better than coffee and water2 what was now furnished to us was so strong1 that1 though mixed with an equal quantity of boiling milk1 it had more of the taste of coffee than ,i have found in what was called very good coffee at those splendid and fatiguing assemblies1 which the ladies call routs1 at ,bath and other towns1--where1 in order that four persons may amuse themselves at whist in a creditable way1 forty others are crowded together for the same laudable purpose4 ,it was ,sunday3 we went to mass3 the church was crowded to excess3 so many churches have been confiscated to the use of the nation1 that1 in the great towns1 not enough of them remain for the use of the people4 ,we went to the port to inquire after our trunks3 it was low water2 and our packet-boat1 which rode so high in the night1 was now hardly afloat3 we went down into it by a ladder1 and found that our goods had been sent to the custom-house3 thither we bent our steps3 the officer attended1 a smart young man in a military dress3 he ascertained the nature of the contents of my boxes1 and the object of my journey1 and gave no unnecessary trouble3 he talked much of ,english commerce1 and did not affect to conceal his satisfaction that it was ecrase par les impots4#g ,i ought therefore to believe in the sincerity of his wishes1 that my journey in ,france might be as agreeable and advantageous as ,i myself desired4 ,i now had to disengage myself from three out of five stout porters1 who stood in readiness to bear away my two hair trunks and writing-desk3 ,i told them1 two men could carry the whole3 they assured me it was impossible4 ,i then endeavoured to get rid of one at least of the five1 by placing the writing-desk on one of the trunks1 making a civil leave-taking sign1 at the same time1 to the man who seemed to consider the desk as his share in this weighty matter3 the man answered me by a low reverence1 and by taking the desk under his arm2 the other four seized each the ring of a trunk1 and all set off at full speed to the inn4 ,nothing remained but to follow1 and pay them according to their number4 ,our passport1 granted by the ,marquis d',osmond1 the ,french ambassador at the ,english court1 allowing us to circulate freely within the kingdom of ,france1 had been forwarded to ,paris1 and we were to receive another for the limited purpose of following our passport4 ,i had not found the ,bureau open3 this was no inconvenience1 as ,i intended to rest this day at ,havre4 ,m4 ,marre gave us a very good dinner1 at three francs a head1 and claret at the same price a bottle3 he sat down with us1 and did the honours1 and animated the conversation1 like any other gentleman4 ,among the company was a priest1 who showed at once his gratitude and his discontent1 by telling me that the ,english government1 which had taken nothing from him1 allowed him1 during his emigration1 a larger pension than the ,french government now paid him1 though it was in possession of the property of which he had been deprived3 he forgot that the spoliators and those who compensated were different parties2 that in #ahah1 nothing was left of the biens nationaux of #aghi4 ,we viewed the town and the port1 and saw nothing particularly remarkable1 but the great number of parrots hung at doors and windows1 and crying out--damn and damn your eyes4 ,their voyage from the tropics had been performed under ,english auspices4 ,havre is a great depot of colonial produce2 and this bird may probably be in great demand in a nation1 so loquacious as we1 in our vulgar prejudices1 suppose the ,french to be4 ,the commerce of the place assumed at this time a great degree of activity in objects of more importance than parrots1 however accomplished4 ,but the day was a day of rest4 ,the next morning ,i went to the ,bureau de ,police for my passport3 the ,commissaire1 for reasons or from feelings best known to himself1 desired me to call again in two hours4 ,i have seen many instances of the hatred of the ,french towards the ,english1 which the imperial government had excited to the utmost degree of intensity1 and which did not begin to subside till the removal of the army of observation4 ,m4 le ,commissaire1 ,i suspect1 indulged in a little ebullition of this unamiable sentiment3 in vain ,i represented that my passport had been in his office the whole of the preceding day1 during which ,i had called there three times3 this seemed to increase his triumph2 and he coolly1 though very civilly1 repeated his request that ,i would call again in two hours4 ,he procured for us a very pleasant walk on the hills1 which command a view of the town1 the mouth of the ,seine1 and the channel4 ,the trees1 in this land of cyder1 were in full blossom2 the rye was in ear2 all seemed to be a month earlier than in the northern region we had left a week before1 when we quitted our home4 ,we entered the church2 the parish is called ,st4 ,vic3 ,i was surprised to see the exact resemblance of this church to those edifices1 the remains of former times1 which1 in our villages1 are opened once a week for divine worship3 the altar and images excepted1 it was the same sort of interior3 there was indeed the holy water pot1 but of that the trace at least is to be found in almost all our old churches3 but the images2 ay1 there was ,st4 ,denis1 with his head1 not under his arm1 but held between his hands4 ,on this ,i shall only remark1 that he who1 on account of the legend of ,st4 ,denis1 believes the catholic religion to be false1 may deceive himself in a matter of the greatest moment2 whereas he who believes the legend to be true1 may be deceived1 but in a matter of no moment at all4 ,a farmer's lad1 of about fourteen1 came up to us in the church-yard1 and entered into a conversation1 which he conducted without bashfulness1 and with the greatest propriety4 ,he told us1 that mass was said every morning at break of day1 and that the peasantry attended it before going to their labour4 ,he talked of the principal tombs before us1 and of the families in two or three large houses within our view3 he asked questions respecting ,england1 where1 he supposed1 there were no poor1 because he had never seen any3 undeceived on this point1 he inquired after the state of these poor1 with marks of fellow-feeling2 what wages they gained3 and when ,i1 in my turn1 was informed of the wages and price of bread in his country1 and showed him1 that though the ,englishman gained more sous1 the ,frenchman gained more bread1 he clearly apprehended the nature of the case1 pitying at the same time those who had less bread to eat than he had himself4 ,he took leave of us1 and certainly had not the least expectation of a present to make him drink3 that we were strangers1--that we talked his language with difficulty1--all that would have repelled an ,english peasant1--excited his curiosity1 and even his good-will4 ,we returned to the town1 found a commis who expedited our passport in five minutes1 and went to take our places in the ,paris diligence4 ,a woman gave me a receipt for my arrhes4 ,i told her it would save trouble to include my luggage in the same receipt4 ,when you shall have sent it1 sir1 was the answer4 ,a distinguishing character of the ,french is exactness2 in criticism1 in style of writing1 in calculation1 in affairs1 they are exact4 ,i give my own opinion1 not perhaps that of others4 ,it was the first of the ,rogation days1 which an ,anglican may see1 in his book of common-prayer1 noted as days of abstinence4 ,m4 ,marre1 profiting by the neighbourhood of the sea1 gave us a very fine turbot1 part of a good dinner1 at which appeared some dishes of meat4 ,i paid my bill1 7about fifty francs for three persons during two days17 and took my departure1 but was arrested1 in my way to the diligence1 in a curious manner4 ,i had given a franc to a boy for taking my two trunks in a wheel-barrow a short distance to the coach-office2 ,boots1 at an inn in ,england1 would have been contented with a sixpence2 but the porte-faix of the douane had admonished me of the high expectations from ,english wealth and generosity4 ,the father of this boy stopped me in the street2 charged me with having robbed his son by paying only one franc instead of three1 to which he had a right2 threatening to take me before the commissary of police1 who1 said he1 will put you in prison4 ,he acted his part very well2 he could not have been more angry1 had ,i in reality committed an act of injustice towards so dear a part of his family as this son1 dressed1 like himself1 in a stout jacket of ,english fustian1 and the heir apparent of all his impudence1 who took his share in the scene by barring the passage to my elder son1 not so stout1 though rather taller than himself4 ,i dreaded some act of vivacity on the part of my son1 and called out to him at all events to be quiet4 ,the boy of the inn1 who carried my writing-desk and great coats1 had no need of such a caution4 ,my younger son1 now in the first day of his thirteenth year1 though alarmed by the hubbub1 had the sense to see that the only way to get out of the affray was to pay the man1 and begged me to do so4 ,the clock struck five1 the hour of the departure of the diligence1--a circumstance which made compliance with this sage counsel no longer a matter of choice1 and on which the man had calculated with more reason than on the assistance of the police4 ,after all1 the lad was not much better paid than the porte-faix of the douane1 who had attacked me only with the smell of garlic and tobacco1 issuing from their mouths together with bad ,french4 ,so much for ,havre1 ci-devant1 de ,grace4 ,we found the diligence to be a convenient and even handsome public carriage1 made to hold six persons within1 and three in the cabriolet or covered seat attached to it in front3 at first1 we had all this space to ourselves4 ,after about an hour's ride1 we got out of the coach to walk up a steep hill1 and took our last leave of the semblance of ,english landscape4 ,france and ,italy offer no views of luxuriant pastures1 with herds and flocks grazing in them1 of trees irregularly planted1 of enclosures unequally distributed1 of fine swelling clouds hanging in the horizon1--themselves a beautiful object1 and adding variety of light and shade to the picture4 ,these we were to exchange for vines1 like bushes1 planted in rows1 or trained in festoons from one pollard elm to another2 for the pale leaf of the olive1 for skies almost always cloudless1 for fields abundant in produce1 but without any thing living or moving in them4 ,but we were as yet unable to make the comparison4 ,as night came on1 we took up other passengers who were going to a short distance3 they were ,normans2 at least such ,i judged them to be from the great breadth of their bases1 which took up a considerable space on the seats of the coach3 in manners as well as in form they were different from ,frenchmen2 they were not indeed reserved1 they had no mauvaise honte1 but they were rude and selfish4 ,the ,french proverb however says1 and it is certainly right1 il y a des honnetes gens partout1 meme en ,normandie2#h a proverb1 cited by way of reprisal for a saying reported by a ,norman2 in contempt of the people of ,champagne2 quatre-vingt dix-neuf moutons et un ,champenois font cent bonnes betes4#i ,it is curious to find jokes1 like our own on ,yorkshire honesty and ,gloucestershire ingenuity1 repeated in a foreign land4 ,to return to the country through which ,i am passing2 the ,normans are said to be very litigious2 in proportion to the frequency of the discussion of questions of meum and tuum1 are the illegal attempts at appropriating what belongs to another2 an offence which the law calls theft1 and punishes capitally4 ,it seems that1 before the ,revolution1 this capital punishment was administered at the gallows2 a machine of which our ,norman conqueror brought with him perhaps a model into ,england1--an excellent subsidiary to the curfew1 as lately tried in ,ireland2 for our ,saxon legislators are recorded to have hung offenders on trees1 but ,i am ignorant that any proof exists of their having contrived a gallows4 ,the invention of the guillotine was a still further improvement2 but1 either from dislike to the shedding of blood1 or from attachment to long-established modes1 the ,normans are said to have prepared for the king1 on his restoration1 a petition1 of which here follows a copy3-- ,petition adressee par les ,normands a ,s4 ,m4 ,louis ,,xviii4 a son ,retour en ,france4 ,sage ,prince6 quand tu nous rends ,tous nos anciens usages1 ,accepte les hommages ,et comble les voeux des ,normands6 ,que la potence ,revive en ,france1 ,daigne d'avance ,nous donner l'assurance ,que sous le regne des vertus ,les gibets nous seront rendus2 ,heureux ,normands6 nous serons donc pendus6 ,sous un roi debonnaire1 ,comme on pendait nos peres66 7bis7 ,oui1 les bons ,normands vont ravoir ,l'antique privilege ,d'aller en grand cortege ,danser a la ,croix du ,trahair2#aj ,nouvelle etude ,nous semble rude1 ,de l'attitude ,nous avons l'habitude1 ,avec le sang de pere en fils ,ce penchant nous etait transmis3 ,venez encore orner notre pays ,gibets hereditaires ,ou l'on pendait nos peres66 ,i am sorry ,i cannot give the notes of the music to which this song or petition was set1 as that doubtless lent to it additional charms in the ears of ,his ,majesty4 ,we arrived at ,yvetot3 ,i heard some talk1 amongst my companions1 concerning the king of ,yvetot1 but was unable to obtain from them a satisfactory explanation of its import4 ,i have since been told1 that there is a family in this neighbourhood1 the head of which1 by an immemorial traditionary usage1 bore the title of ,king of ,yvetot1 with the consent and approbation of the king of ,france1 which consent was regularly asked for1 on every demise of the crown of ,yvetot1 and never refused till the time of ,louis ,,xiv3 he refused it1 however1 saying1 he was determined to be the only king in ,france3 since this time the king of ,yvetot has disappeared from among the sovereigns of ,europe1 or1 according to the form of anathema of republican or imperial ,france1 has ceased to reign4 ,the family still subsists1 and its chief is1 no doubt1 contented to be a private gentleman4 ,i have forgotten his name4 ,we breakfasted at ,rouen1 at five in the morning3 ,i much regretted the want of time to visit this great city1 so well worthy of the curiosity of strangers4 ,here our companions left us1 and we were again all alone by ourselves4 ,at ,magny they served soup and bouilli as the first part of our dinner1 or dejeune a la fourchette3 ,i protested against the use of meat on a ,rogation day4 ,c'est egal1#aa said the landlady1 an elderly woman of dry and quiet comportment4 ,i thought ,france was a catholic country1 said ,i4 ,c'est egal1 repeated the imperturbable landlady4 ,she gave us1 however1 with some symptoms of approbation of our conduct1 and of compassion for my young fellow-travellers1 plenty of coffee and its accompaniments1 with boiled eggs at discretion4 ,i have often been ridiculed1 by those who never dine without roast beef or its equivalent1 for taking thought what ,i should eat1 on a day of abstinence2 they have told me1 that if mortification was my purpose1 it would be most effectually accomplished by dining on bread and water4 ,they forgot1 or chose not to remember1 that fasting or abstinence is a positive duty consequent on a precept1 and that it suffices to comply with a precept to the extent of the precept4 ,i find fault with no one for eating meat on whatever day of the year1 but for so doing in defiance of a precept1 the obligation of which he himself recognizes1 while he aggravates his inconsistency by thinking scorn of those who comply with it4 ,an old relation of mine1 in ,devonshire1 told me he went to dine with a catholic family1 in that county1 who made an excuse for being obliged to give him what he would find a bad dinner3 ,they set me down1 said he1 to eleven dishes of fish1 and1 d--n 'em1 they called that fasting4 ,my relation was gourmand enough to have preferred eleven dishes of meat4 ,besides1 none but those who have made the experiment know how insipid fish is to those who do not eat it1 as all men of true taste do eat it1 for variety only4 ,so sensible are catholics of this insipidity1 that one1 at whose house ,i dined with a large party1 called out to us on entering his dining room1--,no fish1 gentlemen3 we have enough of that on other days4 ,there is another road from ,rouen to ,paris1 called the lower road1 following1 at a little distance1 the course of the ,seine1 and exhibiting a great variety of fine scenery3 that taken by our coach passed over a high plain of land of little fertility1 but very well cultivated2 it was in a straight line1 and bordered by rows of apple trees1 which1 for some time before the season of gathering the fruit for cyder1 are guarded in the night by dogs3 during the day1 their situation by the side of the road secures them from all but petty pilfering4 ,at intervals were seen farm-houses1 which seemed adapted for large farms2 and the country bore signs of being occupied on the plan of what is called grand cultivation1 except near the towns1 where small patches of land1 of different crops1 marked the minute subdivision of property4 ,we passed through the village of ,st4 ,clair4 ,a very particular circumstance1 which had occurred five months before1 caused me to be much affected1 while in sight of this town4 ,my elder son1 who sat opposite to me1 remarked the change of my countenance1 and asked the reason3 ,i eluded his question for the present3 ,i was not aware how much what ,i then revolved in my mind regarded the fate of this son4 ,st4 ,clair was an ,english priest1 who1 in the eighth century1 retired into the pays de ,vexin1 led there an eremitical life1 and occupied himself in the religious instruction of the inhabitants4 ,his name and memory are held in great honour1 particularly in the dioceses of ,beauvais and ,paris4 ,we crossed the bridge of ,pontoise without entering that ancient town1 in which the ,etats ,generaux were sometime held4 ,the building of a bridge was formerly so great an exploit1 and the possession of one an advantage so uncommon1 that the word enters into the composition of many names of towns3 we find even ,deuxponts1 and ,bracebridge4 ,the waters of all the rivers which fall into the ,seine seem to be of the same colour2 all bring with them chalk and clay4 ,the soil of the whole basin1 or valley of the ,seine1 is generally uniform4 ,paris is hidden1 from those who approach it by the road of ,st4 ,denis1 by the interposition of ,montmartre1 a bare hill of no pleasing form4 ,no increasing populousness or bustle1 or passage of exits and entrances1 announces the vicinity of a great town3 ,paris is all within its own walls4 ,we were stopt at the gate2 for every gate is a douane1 as all provisions pay a tax on entering the city1 except bread1 corn1 and flour1 which receive a premium3 even one of my trunks was opened4 ,as the parts of a town1 remote from its centre1 are1 of course1 inhabited by the poorer classes1 it is unreasonable to expect magnificence on the first entering1 even of ,paris2 but it improved as we proceeded4 ,we crossed the ,boulevards1 and were set down at the ,messageries1 the grand establishment of all the public carriages1 whence we proceeded to the ,hotel de ,conti1 at a little distance1 and near the ,palais ,royal4 ,we had performed the whole journey in twenty-five hours1 at the rate of about six miles an hour1 all stoppages included4 ,during the night1 and where the road was bad1 we went slowly2 but from ,rouen to ,paris we went more than seven miles and a half an hour1 the rate of an ,english mail coach2 the relays of horses always being in readiness at the door of each post-house4 ,the expense for three persons1 including breakfast and dinner1 was about five pounds4 ,a friend1 whom ,i had hastened to see before his departure from ,paris1 and who1 to my very great satisfaction1 prolonged his stay there for four weeks after my arrival1 came to us in the evening3 we passed the next day with him1 and on ,thursday1 after attending mass1 on the feast of the ,ascension1 at the magnificent ,gothic church of ,st4 ,eustache1 settled ourselves in an apartment in the ,rue de la ,chaussee d',autin1 called otherwise1 while ,savoy was a department of ,france1 ,rue ,mont ,blanc1 a name not yet entirely forgotten4 ,it is1 for length and width1 one of the best in ,paris1 but very noisy4 ,garcons1 however1 did not mind noise3 ,i too was a garcon1 waiting the arrival of the female part of my family4 ,we had two sitting-rooms with cabinets1 and three good beds4 ,the house supplied us with hot water for our tea2 we had our mid-day repast of fruit2 and1 when we did not dine at a cafe1 which we did but rarely1 were supplied with our dinner by a neighbouring traiteur4 ,thus we lived for nearly three months3 a ,french master and drawing-master attended my sons2 ,i superintended their other studies2 and we employed our time in the attainment of the object immediately within our reach--in becoming acquainted with ,paris and its environs4 ,,footnotes3 #g ,overwhelmed by duties4 #h ,there are honest people every where1 even in ,normandy4 #i ,ninety-nine sheep and one native of ,champagne make a hundred good beasts4 #aj ,the ,tyburn of ,paris4 #aa ,it is all the same4 ,,chap4 ,,iii4 ,he1 who1 on his return to ,edinburgh from ,london1 should publish his remarks on the latter city1 would not take more superfluous pains1 for the instruction of his countrymen1 than the ,englishman who should publish in ,england an account of ,paris3 it is there almost as well known as ,london itself4 ,still it is a foreign city3 and many1 who would scorn to take up a ,london ,guide1 may1 for the hundredth time1 amuse themselves with notices of ,paris4 ,il n'y a qu'une ,paris dans le monde1#ab say the ,french1 and of that world they consider it as the capital3 they are in some measure justified in so considering it1 by the universality of their language1 by the general imitation of their manners1 and1 above all1 by the liberality with which every thing that a stranger can desire to view is offered to his inspection4 ,there is certainly a greater resort of foreigners to ,paris1 independently of commerce1 than to any other city of ,europe4 ,i followed the advice of a former tourist1 and went1 first of all1 to the ,place ,louis ,,xv4 ,it is almost the only object ,i have seen in my travels1 that ,i have heard much praised beforehand1 which has not disappointed me4 ,perhaps ,i was thus well contented1 because the feeling of admiration was now1 for the first time1 excited in the beginning of my tour in foreign parts2 and ,i pleased myself in expecting a frequent renewal of it2 and ,i have since admired less1 because ,i have seen more things to admire4 ,but1 to the ,place ,louis ,,xv4 ,entering it from the north1 you have the ,seine1 with its bridge1 and the ,palais ,bourbon before you2 advancing to the middle of the square1 you have public buildings with magnificent colonnades behind you2 on the left is the garden of the ,tuilleries1 at the end of the central allee of which is seen the chateau2 on the right1 the ,champs ,elysees2 and1 at the end of the grand avenue1 the triumphal arch1 which shared the fate of the triumphs of its founder1 being left incomplete3 it has since been finished in honour of his ,royal ,highness the ,duc d',angouleme on account of his ,spanish campaign of #ahbc4 ,a very good taste dictated to ,napoleon the site of this arch2 without it the fourth side of this magnificent square was trees and country only2 but the arch seems to enclose the ,champs ,elysees1 as the ,palace encloses the garden of the ,tuilleries2 the extent of the ,place is increased by making the ,champs ,elysees appear as a part of it1 and the whole is perfected4 ,the daughter of ,louis ,,xvi4 and ,marie ,antoinette avoids this ,place with a pious horror1 in which every honest heart is disposed to sympathise4 ,the ,museum of the ,louvre consists of the lower apartments1 in which the statues are placed1 and of the gallery of paintings2 but as it has become usual to call the gallery by the name of the ,gallery only1 the lower rooms have retained sole possession of the name of ,museum4 ,at the door may be bought catalogues of the statues and paintings1 which enter1 in some cases1 into a short detail of their history and merits4 ,the statues are well placed3 one may go round them1 and see them on every side4 ,common sense directs1 that a statue should be placed thus2 yet at ,rome1 statues1 the admiration of the world1 are placed in dark cabinets1 in niches1 close to the wall2 as if statues1 like paintings1 were to be seen only on one side3 they are thus robbed of half their glory1 nay of all their glory2 since1 to judge of a statue1 it must be contemplated as a whole4 ,they order these things better in ,france4 ,it is easy to say1 and it has often been said1 that the gallery is too long1--too long1 that is1 for its breadth3 but who would wish it to be shorter8 and as1 on each side1 there is sufficient distance to allow a good view of the pictures opposite1 it cannot be said to be too narrow for its use4 ,by two arches1 thrown across the ceiling1 it seems to be divided into three compartments2 and thus the length is1 in some sort1 broken4 ,the paintings of the ,italian school have the place of honour1 in the compartment at the end furthest from the door2 the ,french school is1 however1 in a most flourishing state1 and boasts great names3 it will soon rival1 if it does not already rival1 the old ,italian school2 to surpass it1 is1 ,i suppose1 impossible4 ,this gallery1 originally intended as a passage from the ,louvre to the ,tuilleries1 from the town-house to the country-house of the kings of ,france1--is now1 with the rooms on the ground-floor1 and some large chambers that have been added1 the repository of the finest collection of monuments of the arts1 that is to be found out of ,italy4 ,indeed no single ,italian collection equals it1 saving always the reverence due to certain renowned and incomparable chefs-d'oeuvre4 ,the ,museum of ,natural ,history1 in the ,jardin des ,plantes1 is said to be the first in the world4 ,that class of society which has but one day in the week of relief from labour is admitted here as well as at the ,louvre4 ,sunday is not the day on which the museums are closed2 as the ,french government has not discovered the wisdom of driving the people into the cabaret by depriving them of all other amusement on that day4 ,i have attended on that day at both museums1 and have been equally surprised and pleased in witnessing the behaviour of those who on that day only have leisure to attend in great numbers4 ,they had not the pretensions of savans and connoisseurs2 though probably there might be found amongst them their fair proportion of connoisseurs and savans4 ,there was no crowding or jostling1--not so much as ,i have sometimes observed in assemblies of people more fashionably dressed3 there was no noise or clamour2 they conducted themselves with the greatest decorum3 in the botanical garden1 they kept themselves on the walks and allees without ever stepping among the plants2 they did not even teaze the poor animals imprisoned in the menagerie4 ,no apprehension seemed to be entertained by any one that they would injure any object of art or science4 ,this love of mischief is only excited in the people by the jealousy or disdain of their superiors1 refusing to share with them pleasures that may1 at so cheap a rate1 be made common to all4 ,dr4 ,willis used to have some of the persons entrusted to his charge as his daily guests at dinner3 he was asked how he succeeded in making his patients behave so well at table1--,by treating them as if they were in their senses4 ,the palace of the ,luxembourg contains many very fine paintings1 the works chiefly of living authors3 its beautiful garden is a source of health and enjoyment to the inhabitants of this distant quarter of the city2 and this garden1 as well as that of the ,tuilleries1 is open every day to the public4 ,even the passage from the ,place du ,carousel to the garden1 through the chateau1 or from the front door to the back door of the king's palace1 is a public thoroughfare2 a practice not very respectful to the king1 say some3 ,i say it is a mark of his kindness2 and ,i hope the people1 to reward him for it1 and show their gratitude1 will cry ,vive le ,roi whenever his ,majesty appears on the balcony4 ,the library of the king of ,france is second only to that of the ,vatican1 and superior to the imperial library at ,vienna1 and to the ,bodleian at ,oxford3 it is not generally known1 even to the ,english1 that this last-named ranks as the fourth library in ,europe4 ,the king of ,france gives the use of his library to the public during four hours every day of the week not a festival1 except ,thursdays4 ,persons are in attendance1 who1 with an air of civility1 as if pleased with the service required of them1 find and present every book that may be asked for2 and although the number of readers is great1 the most perfect decorum and silence prevail4 ,there are five or six other great public libraries at ,paris1 at all of which the same accommodation is afforded4 ,the apartment in which the king's library is kept is handsome1 but not sufficiently so1 and is in the midst of other buildings3 if a fire should happen1 a risk is incurred of an irreparable loss4 ,when the building1 now in construction1 opposite to the ,museum of the ,louvre1 shall be completed1 and the ,place du ,carousel shall form one vast quadrangle1 it is to be hoped that this building will contain a gallery1 like that of the paintings1 in which may be deposited this superb and useful collection of books4 ,with two palaces united by two such galleries1 the king of ,france will be more magnificently lodged than any monarch of ancient or modern time3 he need not envy the golden palace of the ,caesars3 he may even be contented under the inconvenience consequent on his condescension to the wants of his people1--of having no place where he can take the air1 but that very balcony1 on which ,i augur to him the continuance of their felicitations4 ,the ,pont ,neuf is a fine point of view from which to see the eastern and southern fronts of this edifice1 with the garden and ,champs ,elysees and country beyond4 ,of the churches of ,paris1 the cathedral of ,notre ,dame may rank with the cathedral churches of the second order in ,england4 ,ste4 ,genevieve1 sometime the ,pantheon1 although the inscription1 aux grands hommes la patrie reconnoissante1#ac was still legible in #ahah1 is now restored to the use for which it was built4 ,the portico is so extremely beautiful1 that the architect was blamed by a pun1 not transferable into ,english1 for having turned all his architecture out of doors1--mis a la porte toute son architecture4 ,a greater and more unequivocal fault than this was committed2 it was found necessary to support the dome by a double thickness of wall within4 ,this church is not equal in grandeur to ,st4 ,paul's1 which the little boy called the church of ,england2 but the inside is more beautiful1 and would appear larger1 7as the pillars do not occupy so much space17 were it not too short in the part beyond the dome2 shorter than the due proportion of the cross demands4 ,a traveller1 soon after the restoration1 having visited the tombs below the pavement of this church1 and seen the torch1 typical of philosophy1 issuing from that of ,voltaire1--observed a monument which seemed to him a new one2 he inquired whose it was1 and was told by the attendant1 that of a member of the ancient ,senate4--,but1 said the traveller1 ,i thought this edifice was the place of interment for great men4--,c'est vrai2 mais1 en attendant1 on y enterre des senateurs4#ad ,it is not certain whether this was said in simplicity or in persiflage4 ,i recommend to the attention of those who visit the church of ,st4 ,sulpice an image or statue of the ,blessed ,virgin1 with the infant ,saviour in her arms1 seated on a globe1 and surrounded by angels4 ,the light1 from an unseen opening above1 falls on the figures in such a manner1 as to give to the whole scene an appearance of animation beyond what the sculptor1 however great his merit1 could have produced4 ,there are other objects in this church worthy of notice4 ,the double portico1 or rather two porticos1 one above the other1 are much to be admired4 ,i cannot be persuaded1 however1 even by the numerous examples of this practice1 that it is not absurd for pillars to support pillars3 it seems as if children were playing at architecture1 and trying how high they could make their building reach4 ,yet there is nothing childish in these porticos2 they are grand and imposing4 ,the gilded dome of the ,church of the ,invalids1 from whatever point it can be seen1 is the ornament of ,paris1 and it is an ornament because it is gilded4 ,a dome is1 on the outside1 an ugly and heavy object to the view2 and therefore gilding1 or what is better1 architectural ornament1 like that left incomplete at ,florence1 is well employed on a dome4 ,i know ,i have ,cicero against me1 who speaks in high praise of the dome of the ,capitol4 ,cicero and the ,capitol are great names2 but1 much as ,i venerate that great orator and philosopher1 ,i hope there is no harm in saying1 that ,i have seen more domes than he had an opportunity of seeing4 ,i reserve what ,i have to say on the interior of domes till ,i shall arrive at ,st4 ,peter's and the ,pantheon4 ,the ,church of the ,invalids is a very handsome one3 ,i attended military mass there3 none but those who have proved it can judge of the fine effect produced1 on such an occasion1 by the military music and ceremonial4 ,the ,halle aux ,bleds is an object very likely to be overlooked by an elegant traveller4 ,i have heard of a young man of fashion1 who1 being requested to call at ,child's bank1 declared he never had been so far in the city in his life4 ,in this ,halle is deposited the corn and flour brought for the supply of ,paris3 it is conveniently situated for the distribution of this supply1 being in the most populous quarter of the city2 but the streets leading to it are narrow2 and it has1 unfortunately both for its commercial uses and for the view of it1 no open space around it4 ,it is in form and dimensions exactly like the ,pantheon at ,rome1 without the portico3 no timber is employed in its construction2 it is built entirely of stone and iron2 even the doors are of iron4 ,i know not if ,i saw it on a gloomy day1 or if the sky of ,italy be clearer than that of ,france1 or if the corn and flour sacks hindered the reflection of the sun2 but1 though the opening at the top be equally large1 it did not seem to admit so much day-light as that of the ,pantheon4 ,napoleon did much1 and projected still more1 for the embellishment of ,paris4 ,the pillar in the ,place ,vendome is superior to those of ,trajan and ,antonine in every thing1 but in the veneration due to antiquity and the name of ,rome4 ,his son bore the title of ,king of that ancient capital of the world2 and for him1--for the king of ,rome1--was projected a palace on the right bank of the ,seine opposite the ,hotel des ,invalides1 that from his infancy the view of these emeriti of ,french valour might inspire him with an ardour for military exploits1 and that these warriors also might find a part of their recompense in being continually under the eye of the heir of so much glory4 ,this project has1 of course1 been abandoned4 ,yet why should not the education of the young ,henry1 the future heir of the ,french monarchy1 be conducted in the same spirit as would have been that of the young ,napoleon8 ,there exists1 indeed1 but too much cause why it should be so conducted1 as to form a leader fit to head the armies and direct the energies of ,france4 ,a million of bayonets threaten ,europe from the north1 and ,france only can array itself against them1 ,russia has already absorbed1 within its empire1 that great limitrophe nation which might have been a barrier against its further progress3 its nearest neighbour has a force not more than a third of that which ,russia itself can wield3 the first military power of ,germany1 ,prussia1--a camp rather than a kingdom1 a state rather than a nation1--must continue the voluntary or involuntary ally of ,russia3 the rest of ,germany is divided into petty sovereignties4 ,russia has an army1 the half of which is sufficient for its own defence2 nay1 it is secure from attack3 what then may it do1 ,what will it do1 with the other half8 ,the irruption of the now half-civilised and well-disciplined hordes of the north1 directed by one will1 which rules from the ,aleutian isles to the banks of the ,vistula1 is an event that may take place before the infant ,henry shall have attained the age of manhood3 then1 instead of the prospect of the ,invalides1 he may have that of the tented field2 instead of mimic war and reviews on the ,champ de ,mars1 he may join in real battle for the security of ,france and the protection of ,europe4 ,the building which was to have been a monument dedicated to the grand army1 is converted into a church1 for which1 by its form1 it was well adapted4 ,but1 instead of this edifice1 a monument has been raised to the glory of the ,french warriors1 aere perennius2--a work in twenty-six volumes1 by a society of military men and men of letters3 it is entitled ,victoires et ,conquetes in very large capitals1 desastres et revers in very small capitals1 of the ,french armies1 from #agib to #ahae4 ,it is composed in the spirit of the liberal party1 but with great moderation3 it speaks with constant respect of the royal family of ,france1 with unreserved freedom of ,bonaparte1 and with severe censure of the faults of the republican government3 its hatred of ,england is more than patriotic1--plus quam civilia3 it is written in a very respectable style1 itself a history1 and forming a collection of materials to be embodied into future1 general1 or partial histories of the revolution4 ,even the ,great ,unknown himself1 than whom no one has a better right to disprove the assertion of ,pindar1 that fable delights more than truth1 since so much of what is delightful in fable is of his own creation1 and every one may do what he wills with his own2--even he1 who may dispute with ,cervantes1 ,shakspeare1 and ,ariosto1 the title of the greatest liar that ever lived1--may have recourse to more than the latter half of these twenty-six volumes1 in the composition of that story1 in which every thing shall be true1 yet every thing shall be astonishing4 ,it is superfluous to wish him success3 of that he is assured1 both by his subject1 and by the novel manner in which it will be handled2 but ,i wish he would take the trouble of once revising his manuscript before impression1 to correct the blunders of rapid composition4 ,i saw the model in plaister of the statue in marble1 of an elephant1 which statue was to have been raised upon a high pedestal in the ,place de la ,bastille3 a staircase1 beginning within one of the fore-legs of the elephant1 was to have led to the top of a tower on his back1 from which would have been seen all ,paris and its environs3 from his proboscis was to have issued a fountain4 ,the model1 ,i am told1 is now broken in pieces4 ,perhaps this is fortunate3 the elephant might in future times have answered the purpose1 if not of the ,bastille1 of the bull of ,phalaris3 after the pleasant jests we have heard of la petite fenetre nationale1#ae and the bapteme republicain#af1--who knows whether the sovereign people1 calling to mind the bull of ,phalaris oh the site of the ,bastille1 and justifying1 according to custom1 its own tyranny by that of others1--might not have amused itself with the bellowing of an elephant8 ,despots1 of one or many heads1 resemble each other3 ----facies non omnibus una1 ,nee diversa tamen4 ,still it is a pity that the elephant is not to be erected3 he would have been at once a curious and majestic figure2 and his absence will not deprive cruelty1 if the disposition to it should unhappily again exist1 of the means of inflicting vengeance4 ,it is always an easy matter1 says the ,english proverb1 to find a stick to beat a dog2 and when one portion of society become dogs to the other and more powerful portion1 of course the dogs must be beaten4 ,the model of the elephant drew me into the neighbourhood of the ,marais3 this quarter of ,paris was once the court end of the town1 and ,vincennes was what ,st4 ,cloud has since become4 ,the streets of the ,marais are much wider and cleaner1 and better built than the other ancient streets of ,paris2 and this quarter1 with the ,place ,royale1 is well worth visiting1 though seldom visited3 it is inhabited by an old-fashioned set of gentry1 who prefer ,paris1 as a residence1 to any country town1 but take no part in its amusements2 who go to church1 and do not go to the opera2 who persist obstinately in the more ancient mode of dining at one o'clock2 who gave no assistance or encouragement to the revolution1 it may be1 because it brought in so many innovations4 ,i am assured that1 during the most tumultuous scenes of that period1 the ,marais was always tranquil4 ,strangers who mean to spend some time in ,paris1 and who have a carriage1 or can do without one1 would do well to establish themselves in the ,marais3 they would indeed be at a great distance from their astonished friends and from the places of amusement1 but the line of the ,boulevards would lead them any where4 ,the ,boulevards are a great1 and precious1 and a peculiar advantage1 which the city of ,paris enjoys above all cities that ,i have seen or heard of4 ,this ancient enclosure of the town is now at about half-way from the ,seine to the walls2 so much have the ,fauxbourgs increased2 for all beyond the ,boulevards is called ,fauxbourg4 ,thus1 in the midst of ,paris1 for the whole of the distance from the bridge of the ,jardin des ,plantes to the ,place ,louis ,,xv4 in a line running at first from south to north1 then westward1 and then inclining to the south1 is found a wide street1 with a broad walk on each side1 shaded by two rows of trees4 ,here you may walk in safety1 without fear of the cabriolets or one-horse chairs1 which1 in all the streets of ,paris1 even on the trottoirs1 endanger life and limb4 ,here you may see exposed to sale1 on tables niched in between the trees on one side1 and between the trees and houses on the other1 all kinds of wares2 millinery and bon-bons1 literature and jou-jous1 maps1 prints1 and cutlery4 ,voila1 says a boy1 flashing in your eyes his string of steel watch-chains1 voila des chaines superbes4--,voila le regne de ,napoleon1 says a moralist1 out of time and place4 ,here you may find petits gateaux and eau de groseille1 to allay both hunger and thirst2 and chairs1 for a sous a-piece1 to repose while you refresh yourself4 ,the houses are lofty1 and many have balconies3 the shops are well supplied2 at every step are theatres1 and spectacles1 and cafes1 and public gardens and diversions of every sort3 an infinite variety of physiognomy1 character1 and occupation is continually flitting before you4 ,it is the most amusing morning scene of this amusing metropolis4 ,napoleon gave to ,paris the bridges of ,austerlitz and ,jena3 the names have been changed to those of du ,jardin du ,roi1 and des ,invalides2 but the benefit remains3 thus the extension of the city1 at both extremities1 was encouraged1 and the value of property increased4 ,along the ,seine1 on both banks1 from the one to the other of these bridges1 is a space of the width of a very broad street between the houses and the river4 ,this too1 as well as the ,boulevards1 is an advantage peculiar to ,paris4 ,in ,london1 to get a view1 or a peep at the ,thames1 you must go to the ends of the streets at right angles with it3 the projected terrace1 when accomplished1 will1 ,i hope1 form a magnificent answer to this reproach4 ,at ,florence1 the lungarnata extends for about one third only of the course of the ,arno through that beautiful city4 ,the ,hotel-,dieu is in a central situation1 more convenient1 both for the patients and their medical attendants1 than the sites now often chosen for such institutions in the precincts of cities4 ,the course of the ,seine supplies it with air and water4 ,an admirable cleanliness is observed in the wards3 even the beds of the patients are free from all offensive odour4 ,this infirmary is a school of medicine3 young surgical practitioners flock to ,paris for instruction4 ,the ,french have unhappily had of late so many opportunities of perfecting themselves in this science1 that they are well qualified to give lessons4 ,if honour hath no skill in surgery1 he is obliged to lead in his train many who have4 ,the ,hotel-,dieu is a credit to the country4 ,it is very easy to find your way in ,paris3 between the ,seine and the ,boulevards you may always arrive quickly at a point where you may know whereabouts you are4 ,this is facilitated too by a trifling1 but ingenious arrangement3 the streets parallel to the river are distinguished from those at right angles with it1 by inscribing the names of the one set in black letters on a light ground1 and of the other set in white letters on a black ground4 ,the ,morgue is an excellently well-contrived establishment4 ,it is a little building1 on the bank of the river1 where are deposited the bodies of persons found drowned or otherwise accidentally slain4 ,these bodies are laid on an inclined plane1 in a space partitioned off by glass doors and windows1 stript of part of their clothes1 which are hung up over their heads4 ,by this simple method1 the members of a family1 of whom one is lost or missing1 have the means of finding and reclaiming their own1 if there1 without inquiry1--without exposing to public remark a mischance which may be only temporary4 ,calling here one day1 ,i was witness to a scene on which the genius of ,sterne would have lived and revelled most sentimentally4 ,the body of a middle-aged man1 who1 by the clothes suspended above1 appeared to have been a sailor1 was laid in its place to be recognised4 ,after gazing on this sight for some little time1 ,i was retiring1 when ,i met1 at the outer door1 an elderly woman accompanied by a lad of about fourteen years old4 ,their steps were hurried3 their countenances full of anxiety and terror4 ,they have lost1 said ,i1 a son and a father4 ,i waited the event4 ,they advanced to the window1 with what ,i will call1 if the phrase may be allowed1 a precipitate irresolution1--dreading to find what they sought4 ,they returned consoled1 but still dejected3 the expression of their faces said plainly1--,it is not he2 but then1 where is he8 ,he was not found there1 yet still he was lost4 ,there are several manufactures at ,paris worthy of attention4 ,old renown led me to the ,gobelins3 it was not in a state of great activity at this time1 but ,i saw some works both finished and carrying on1 worthy of that old renown4 ,the process of making this tapestry is exceedingly tedious4 ,i observed that the workmen1 like clock-makers1 and printers1 and other men of letters1 were almost all short-sighted4 ,the ,palais ,royal1 as a centre of wealth and dissipation1 deserves all the celebrity it has acquired3 it is besides a very handsome quadrangle1 as ,i once was used to call the interior of buildings of this form3 it is not a square2 it would be pedantic to call it a parallelogram1 and not according to usage to call it an oblong4 ,the arches are not wide enough2 and the arcade 7the space1 ,i mean1 between the arches and the shops17 is not broad enough4 ,here is more splendour1 but less of variety to be seen1 than on the ,boulevards4 ,the shop-keepers are not dearer here than in other quarters of ,paris3 the greater number of their transactions pays their higher rents1 though their profits may be only equal to those of their brethren in trade4 ,i took ice at the ,cafe de ,mille ,colonnes1 and found that1 counting shadows or reflections in the mirrors with which the rooms are lined1 the number1 though indefinite1 may not be exaggerated4 ,the garden is enclosed by iron palisades between the arches3 it is closed in the night1 the arcade being still left as a thoroughfare4 ,i found no reason to avoid passing through it with my elder son1 a youth of seventeen1 though ,i should have been most unwilling to lead him in the evening into any street in ,london4 ,when will the police of the capital of the ,british empire take shame to themselves8 ,the colonnade of the ,louvre1 which the ,gascon said was very much like the back front of his father's stables1 is justly admired4 ,the court ,i thought to be too much ornamented1 and the ornaments too much subdivided1 and the height of the building within too great for its extent of area4 ,it is1 however1 an exceedingly handsome building3 ,i was glad to see it completed1 at least as to the exterior4 ,i was told it had been nearly two centuries in building4 ,he who had ,versailles wanted no other dwelling4 ,i shall be well pleased to have excited the reader's attention to my remarks also on the curiosities of ,paris3 at any rate ,i have not detained him long4 ,i hope he will not be disinclined to accompany me to the environs4 ,,footnotes3 #ab ,there is but one ,paris in the world4 #ac ,to great men their grateful country4 #ad ,that is true2 but1 in the mean time1 they bury senators4 #ae ,the little national window--the hole of the guillotine that receives the neck4 #af ,republican baptism--drowning people by boatsfull4 ,,chap4 ,,iv4 ,the cemetery of ,pere la ,chaise is on a height commanding a view of ,paris and of the whole extent of country from ,vincennes to ,st4 ,cloud4 ,le ,pere la ,chaise was confessor to ,louis ,,xiv4 and sometime proprietor of this large field1 now the burying-ground of a great proportion of the population of ,paris4 ,it is laid out1 with due regard to the irregularity of the ground1 in walks and allees2 and the care of adorning and planting is left to the relations and friends of the deceased here interred4 ,it is adorned with tombs and monuments1 some of which display more taste than is usually brought to such designs3 around these tombs are planted poplars and cypresses1 roses and jasmines2 and thus the quarter where the rich are buried1 7for even here the people of quality flock all together17 has the air of a pretty shrubbery4 ,the price of so much land as may suffice for one corpse is now three hundred francs1 and the ground1 with whatever may be erected upon it1 becomes the property of heirs and assigns for ever4 ,the money so raised is1 ,i believe1 applied to the maintenance of infirmaries or other public charities4 ,that part of the cemetery where the poor1 or those who do not buy their graves1 are buried1 is dug very deep on the occasion of each interment3 the ground is taken up regularly2 and it is supposed that the bodies first buried will be reduced to earth before it shall be necessary to dig over the same ground a second time4 ,such is1 by law1 the mode of sepulture throughout ,france3 no one can be buried in a church1 nor even in his own garden or field1 unless at a certain distance from all habitation2 and cemeteries1 regulated like that of ,pere la ,chaise1 are every where provided4 ,these burying-grounds are to be restored to cultivation1 wholly or in part1 as the case may require1 during the time necessary for the complete rotting of the bodies beneath2 a space of fourteen years1 says ,hamlet's grave-digger1 for all but your tanner3 this however must depend more on the nature of the soil than on the former occupation of the persons deceased2 but ,shakspeare is allowed to jest on every subject4 ,i will own that the view of the great cemetery of the capital of ,france displeased1 and even disgusted me2 and that the law in regard to this matter appeared to me a scheme of irreligious legislators for putting out of sight all that might remind them of death1 and for desecrating church-yards1 and for rooting out of the minds of the people their veneration for ancient usages and consecrated places4 ,an enclosure1 destined to the uses of a church-yard1 turned into a flower-garden1--or a flower-garden1 still retaining its finery1 turned into a church-yard2--monuments surmounted1 not by the symbol of salvation1 but by vases in which no ashes were contained1 and which are absurd in a place where bodies are not burned1 but buried2--inscriptions1 which spoke not of eternity1 but were such as if the person beneath had died without hope or fear1--all this offended me4 ,the provisions of the law of burial1 which does not allow families to repose together even in death1 since each corpse must take its place in the row or line1--this law1 which destroys all sepulchral memorials of families or individuals1--7for if the land be restored to cultivation the sepulchres cannot well be preserved17 all this shocked my habitual notions and ancient prejudices4 ,yet what can be more dangerous to the health of a great city1 than that1 in every populous part of it1 there should be a small enclosure1 containing1 at a little depth under ground1 dead bodies in every stage of putrefaction1--a dunghill of most noxious exhalation1 slightly covered with mould8 ,how much is this danger increased by the contagious1 7,i was going to say pestilential1 but it is now doubted whether pestilence be contagious or not17 by the contagious nature of many diseases6 ,what can be more indecent1 and at the same time dangerous1 than that1 at the digging of a grave1 bodies should be disturbed before they are assimilated to the dust to which they are committed1 and that skulls and other bones should be thrown out for play-things to thoughtless children8 ,such things ,i have seen1 and so has every man who has been present at the digging of a grave in any town in ,england2 such things are even represented on the stage1 to the disgrace of our national character1 for the sake of the grave-diggers' puns1 and an ingenious moralizing on the skull of ,yorick4 ,custom reconciles us to things in themselves most shocking4 ,medea might have slain her children coram populo1 if the people had been used to it4 ,they were used to gladiators4 ,yet custom will not prevent infection3 we ought1 in spite of custom1 to be sensible of the indecency of our mode of interment1 and of the risk we run by heaping our dead on each other in a narrow boundary1 yearly encroached upon by the altar-tombs of the wealthy1 and rendered still narrower by a predilection1 foolish as it may seem1 for the sunny side of the church-yard4 ,how then are the dead to be disposed of8 a question to my mind more difficult to answer than how are the dead raised up8 ,in populous cities1--a situation unfavourable to human life1--of thirty persons1 one dies yearly3 each individual requires for his grave two square yards of earth2 grown persons rather more1 as every grave ought to be separated from that nearest to it2 and children will require less than two square yards2 but upon an average1 a population of seventy-two thousand six hundred souls1 or more properly on this occasion1 bodies1 will cover with their dead1 in the space of one year1 an acre of land4 ,the dead of the city of ,paris in fourteen years1--,shakspeare's period for entire decomposition1--would take up a hundred and forty acres4 ,if cemeteries are not restored to cultivation1 the dead1 after a few generations1 will starve the living2 at least it must be borne in mind that cemeteries1 near great towns1 must be allotted in situations where land is most valuable4 ,unwillingly ,i abandon all my prepossessions in favour of holy ground and other circumstance of christian burial4 ,the dead ought not to be carried into the church before interment3 that practice is still allowed in ,france1 but ought1 for obvious reasons1 to be suppressed3 the coffin ought to have no lid or cover2 thus the compression of the ascending vapour will be more complete1 and the assimilation of the body to the surrounding mould will not be retarded3 if the horrible accident of burying any one alive should unhappily occur1 at the least1 that which most aggravates the horror of such a misfortune1--the lingering torments of the interred1--are prevented3 portions of land ought to be appropriated1 in the neighbourhood of great cities1 to the uses of sepulture and cultivation successively3 lastly1 the rich ought to be contented with cenotaphs and inscriptions to their memory on the walls and pavements of churches1 while masses and other commemorations may be celebrated in the presence of catafalques4 ,the catacombs are1 or is1 7for ,i have forgotten my ,english grammar17 one of the lions of the environs of ,paris2 and such a lion6 ,let the word lumen mean life1 and call it monstrum horrendum1 informe1 ingens1 cui lumen ademptum4 ,when the ,cimetiere du ,pere la ,chaise was substituted for church-yards1 out of these latter1 now to be applied to secular uses1 were dug the human bones that were found in laying the foundations of buildings3 these bones were carried to certain stone quarries1 now no longer worked1 a little to the south of ,paris4 ,so far1 so good3 but it came into the heads of the managers of this affair to make a pretty thing of it3 on the sides of the passages of the quarry1 and in the wider spaces1 they ranged these bones in squares and circles1 and wheels and stars2 a skull in the middle1 and rays of thighbones1 brachia1 and lacerti2 of the ossa1 ilium1 ischium1 and coccygis1--there was no os sacrum1--they made obelisks and pyramids2 and this region of horror1--these doleful shades1--under the abused name of the catacombs1 attract the idle and curious traveller to see by what fantastic devices that which is most respectable and venerable to humanity and to faith can be tricked out into raree-show4 ,this place cannot be visited without inconvenience3 it were to be wished1 as in the case of the opera tune1 that1 instead of difficulty1 there might be impossibility3 it is excessively damp2 moisture issues from above1 though on the sides it is hidden by the choice tapestry with which they are decorated2 but the ground is slippery2 each person gropes along with a wax taper in his hand1 sometimes obliged to curve himself4 ,it is some consolation1 at length1 to find here an altar1 on which1 once in the year1 on ,all ,souls' ,day1 a missa pro defunctis is said4 ,i trust in the good taste1 if not in the piety of the ,french people1 so far1 as to hope that this altar will be set up in a chapel above-ground1 and that the catacombs will be filled with earth1 and closed till the consummation of all things4 ,the cimetiere and the catacombs are1 strictly speaking1 in the environs of ,paris1 being without the walls4 ,i made however with my sons several excursions to places in the neighbourhood1 setting out in the morning1 passing the day at the place of our visit1 and returning in the cool of the evening4 ,mrs4 ----1 and my daughters1 who had remained in ,england for the purpose of spending some time with her relations before quitting the country1 arrived at ,paris1 under the conduct of one of her brothers1 towards the middle of ,july1--in fact1 as it happened1 on the memorable fourteenth4 ,i took an apartment for a month in the ,rue ,neuve des ,mathurins1 and during that month also we made excursions4 ,i shall make a few observations on what ,i saw2 and first with the first1 the pride of ,louis ,,xiv and of ,france1 the deserted palace or chateau of ,versailles4 ,it is rather a handsome and extensive building1 than a monument to the glory of a great king and a great nation4 ,the front toward ,paris1 composed in part of some corps-de-logis of the ancient hunting-seat of ,louis ,,xiii4 is irregular1 and this grande cour1 7and a grand court it certainly is17 does not form a whole4 ,the approach to the garden front is through a passage1 and to take a view of this front one must first go away from it4 ,at the edge of the terrace one does not see the wings1 which recede1 and form a line with the back of this part of the palace3 below the steps of the terrace1 the lower part of the building is hidden by the intervening ground4 ,this inversion of the wings has not the effect of breaking the too great length of the building3 it is said to have been the project of ,napoleon to erect a magnificent colonnade or portico in front of that part which stands forward on the terrace2 thus the wings1 if such they may be called1 would be thrown into the back ground3 for this they are indeed too handsome2 but in the back ground they have been placed by the plan of ,louis ,,xiv4 ,one would suppose that they retire to form1 on the other side1 a part of the eastern front2 but they are not even seen from the grand court4 ,the architectural ornaments of the garden facade are not many2 slight ,corinthian pilasters only2 the entrance1 even1 is what may be called a garden door1 hardly distinguishable from the other windows of the ground floor4 ,the staircase is handsome1 but not sufficiently so for that to which it leads4 ,i shall not pretend to describe the suite of state apartments4 ,one wonders that men of five feet and some inches high should build1 for their own use1 rooms so disproportionate to their stature4 ,the chamber in which ,louis ,,xiv4 died is amongst the largest of these rooms3 from its windows are seen the three avenues1 called la patte de corbeau1 or of some other bird3 the ends of these avenues are not near enough to the palace2 a defect easily to be supplied4 ,this chamber1 the central one of the grande cour1 remained unoccupied1 in token of respect for the memory of that great monarch1 who rendered null the efforts of a powerful coalition against him1 put his grandson in quiet possession of ,spain and the ,indies1 carried the frontier of ,france to the ,rhine1 made all ,europe begin to learn ,french1 and exemplified the truth of ,william of ,wykeham's motto1--manners maketh man4 ,when ,i saw the palace of ,versailles1 it was unfurnished2 they were renewing the gilding1 and repairing the damages of revolution and neglect4 ,the celebrated gallery runs the whole length of the central part of the garden front4 ,the side opposite the windows is panelled with mirrors in a manner exactly resembling the old wainscot which ,i remember in my youth1 and which has now given place to stucco1 silk1 and paper4 ,what splendid scenes have these mirrors reflected6 and all that was then so glorious is now as unsubstantial as the shadowed form4 ,the chapel is such an one as may be expected in such a palace4 ,the seat of the royal family is in what is called the tribune1 which is entered from the state apartments1 and is at the height of half the chapel from the pavement1 looking down on the altar at the opposite end4 ,in all the royal chapels1 the place of the king is thus situated1 thus elevated above the altar4 ,of this ,i cannot approve3 let me quote a story which will explain my meaning4 ,king ,george ,,iii4 sent1 as a present to the ,emperor of ,china1 a handsome town-built chariot4 ,on board the vessel which conveyed it1 7it was packed up in separate pieces7 a mandarin attended1 to see it mounted and put together1 that he might inform himself of the uses of the several parts4--,he readily understood all the rest2 but the two seats1 the one within1 and the coachman's seat1 covered1 of course1 with a superb hammer-cloth1 perplexed him4 ,for whom is that seat8 said he1 pointing to the inside of the carriage4 ,he was told that it was for the ,emperor4 ,and that8 pointing to the coach-box4 ,for the man who guides the horses4 ,do you think1 said he1 with a sudden burst of indignation1 that our glorious sovereign1 the son of the sun1 c4 c4 will allow any one to be placed higher than himself8 ,from the southern end of the terrace is seen the orangery below1 sheltered from the north by the terrace1 and the southern end of the central part of the palace2 and from the east by that wing in which are the petits appartements4 ,oranges1 in this climate1 endure the open air during five months in the year3 those of the ,tuilleries had already taken their station in the garden when ,i arrived at ,paris1 in the end of ,april4 ,it is said that ,louis ,,xiv4 received a ,turkish ambassador at a first audience in this orangery4 ,this envoy having learned at ,paris that ,versailles was a most magnificent palace1 and at the ,sublime ,porte that flattery was a most important part of his trade1 began to offer to the king his prepared compliments4 ,the king quietly allowed him to proceed and finish2 and then taking him on the terrace1 and into the state rooms1 enjoyed his surprise1 mingled1 as may be supposed1 with some confusion1 at having repeated his lesson rather too soon4 ,the formal arrangement and straight lines of the garden have1 of course1 been blamed by those who1 according to the present ,english taste1 wish every thing in this kind to be tortured into irregularity4 ,i do not desire that the trees should be clipt1 but sympathize rather with the old duchess1 who said it made her melancholy to see so many millions of leaves1 not one of which was permitted to grow as it pleased4 ,but a garden near a house ought to partake of the regularity of the building2 and the house ought not to look1 according to the ingenious expression of the author of ,waverly1 as if it had walked out of the town1 and found its place in the fields by chance4 ,the grand central walk leads down to the water-works1 which are1 doubtless1 very fine1 when the water spouts forth from the shells of tritons and the mouths of dolphins4 ,on each side of this allee1 are bowers and bosquets1 statues and fountains1 vases and beds of flowers4 ,turning to the right1 through avenues of well-grown1 unclipt trees1 one arrives at the ,grand and ,petit ,trianon1--two very pretty country-seats1 at which grandeur was pleased to escape from itself4 ,in the ,jardin ,anglois1 the good taste of ,marie ,antoinette has shown itself superior to rules for avoiding rule1 and planned all according to the advantages of the site4 ,the view of the country from ,versailles is pleasing3 but how was it possible for him1 who had the choice of this spot or of ,st4 ,germains for his purpose1 to choose the former8 ,i will not believe the reason that from the latter are seen the towers of ,st4 ,denis3 his piety1 or1 if not his piety1 that force by which most men are unhappily but too well enabled to shut their eyes on death1 and all that may remind them of it1 would have surmounted this objection4 ,a superbly-elevated natural terrace1 with a wide and varied prospect2 the ,seine1 here a lordly stream2 an extensive forest abounding with game2 a proud height1 from which his palace would have shown majestically to the country around2--all these advantages1 not one of which is possessed by ,versailles1 ought to have induced ,louis ,,xiv4 to prefer ,st4 ,germains4 ,the only unpleasing feature in the view from the terrace is the aqueduct1 made to carry to ,versailles the water of the ,seine raised by the machine of ,marly4 ,certainly he who can command money can command labour2 and labour can erect a series of arches on the side of a high hill4 ,let this fault be redeemed by the canal of ,languedoc4 ,the handsome tower-like chateau of ,st4 ,germains1 when ,i saw it1 was used as a caserne3 the chapel was filled with military stores4 ,we entered the apartment in which our ,james ,,ii4 lived and died an exile1 chased from his house and home by his son-in-law4 ,history records many deeds more atrocious1 but none more disgraceful1 than this violation of family confidence1--of the pledge of good faith given and received4 ,but1 what is more disgraceful still1 the ,english nation1 besotted by prejudices1 sees nothing disgraceful in the transaction4 ,the palace of ,st4 ,cloud is an agreeable1 and1 according to the favourite ,english phrase1 a comfortable habitation1 splendidly1 but not too richly furnished4 ,the salle-a-manger particularly attracted my notice1 being the first good specimen ,i had seen of a ,french dining-room4 ,it is a room large enough for about forty persons to dine in it conveniently4 ,a round table of mahogany1 or coloured like mahogany1 one fauteuil1 and half a dozen chairs1 seemingly not belonging to this room1 but brought from another1 standing round the table on a mat which went underneath it2 a chandelier1 or lustre1 hanging over the tables2--such1 with a few articles for the use of the attendants1 was the furniture of the room4 ,instead of a sideboard1 a painted shelf went round the room at about four feet from the floor4 ,on one of the panes of the window1 a thermometer1 with the scale marked on glass1 was fixed on the outside3 thus the temperature of the outer air might be known without opening the casement4 ,an ,english family of moderate fortune lives very much in the dining-room3 a ,french family would as soon think of sitting in the kitchen as in the salle-a-manger at any other than eating hours4 ,the ,english think it marvellous that a ,french lady should receive visits in her bed-room2 but to this bed-room is annexed a cabinet2 which conceals all objects that ought to be put out of sight3 the bed is either hidden by the drapery1 or covered by a handsome counterpane1 with a traversin or bolster at each end1 which1 as it is placed lengthways against the wall1 the two ends resembling each other in the woodwork also1 gives it1 during the day-time1 the appearance of a couch4 ,the park of ,st4 ,cloud is not a park in the ,english sense of the word2 it is a pretty pleasure-ground1 with great variety of surface4 ,if ,king ,george ,,iii4 had been as much accustomed to the continental notion of a park as the king his grandfather probably was1 he would not have expressed so much surprise1 when1 on his visit to ,magdalen ,college1 ,oxford1 he was asked if he would be pleased to see the park4 ,park6 what1 have you got a park8--,we call it a park1 sir1 because there are deer in it4--,deer6 ,how big is it8--,nine acres1 an it please your ,majesty4--,well1 well1 ,i must go and see a park of nine acres3 let us go and see a park of nine acres4 ,from the elevated ground of the park of ,st4 ,cloud1 where the lantern rears its head1 ,paris is seen over an extent of flat and marshy ground1 over which the ,seine winds with as many evolutions and curvatures as a serpent4 ,the fable of the sun and the wind contending which of them could first induce a traveller to quit his cloak1 might be paralleled by one invented on the sinuosity of rivers in plain countries4 ,let nature oppose rocks and mountains1 the river holds on its way by torrent and by cataract3 arrived at a level country1 it seems to amuse itself by delay4 ,if it were told1 at an ,english gaming club1 that the mountain and the plain had engaged in a contest1 which of them should most effectually divert the course of a river from its direct line to the ocean1 the odds would1 most likely1 be in favour of the mountain4 ,but the result is otherwise4 ,the road from ,paris to ,st4 ,germains en ,laye is the most varied and agreeable of any in the environs4 ,from the avenue and bridge of ,neuilly it passes by ,mont ,valerien1 a finely-wooded hill2 through ,nanterre1 the birth-place of ,ste4 ,genevieve1 patroness of ,paris2 near ,malmaison1 the last abode of ,napoleon in ,france2 by ,marly1 where all is beautiful except the aqueduct4 ,there is a steam-engine to raise the water1 and pipes to conduct it1 which workmen were repairing4 ,we clambered up by the side of the pipes1 at every step induced to mount higher by the beauties of the prospect1 the same as that from the terrace of ,st4 ,germains4 ,it reminded me of the view from ,richmond ,hill1 but it is bolder and more romantic2 and the ,seine1 being nearer to the hill than the ,thames at ,richmond1 appears an equally important feature in the landscape4 ,one of the roads to ,st4 ,cloud passes through the ,bois de ,boulogne3 this wood was much injured while the allied armies remained in the neighbourhood of ,paris3 young trees had been planted1 and appeared thriving4 ,let us hope that a long1 a very long peace1 may obliterate all traces of a war which desolated all ,europe1 and more than ,europe1 for a quarter of a century4 ,indeed1 ,i cannot help agreeing in the wish expressed by one of the common people1 in answer to another who congratulated him on the good news of the peace of ,amiens3--,ay1 said the first1 ,i wish we may never have such good news again4 ,a third cried out1 ,d--n your jacobin eyes1 what do you mean by that8 ,the congratulator explained1 ,why1 doesn't see1 that1 for us to have good news of peace again1 we must first have war again8 and he wishes we may never have another war4 ,the wish1 it seems1 was then a symptom of jacobinism2 but in the present day1 it must be considered as laudable to join in it1 as ,i do most cordially1 since it is the end proposed by the ,holy ,alliance4 ,at ,meudon1 is a very pretty palace1 from the terrace of which the eye looks down on a beautiful ravine1 and then traverses the plain which is seen from the park of ,st4 ,cloud4 ,while my sons and ,i were loitering on the bridge of this latter place1 the daughter of ,louis ,,xvi4 passed by on horseback4 ,she returned our salute by an inclination of the body1 while the principal person in attendance 7a general officer he seemed to be17 took off his hat1 as ,dr4 ---- said1 determinately4 ,three years only after the restoration1 to see this princess for the first time was an interesting occurrence2 and ,i certainly regarded her with a very different feeling from that of the ,parisian1 who1 on her entrance into the capital1 after five and twenty years of suffering and exile1 showed what he was not thinking of1 by exclaiming1 ,comme son chapeau est petit6#ag ,we returned to the restaurateur's to dine2 and1 passing the bridge in the evening1 saw the water works play in honour of the arrival of the king2 a sheet of water thrown down artificial rocks2 a pretty play-thing enough4 ,we saw at ,sevre a most splendid collection of china1 for the greatest part ornamental4 ,every one has seen some of this china1 but it is well worth while to see it en masse in a great quantity at this repository4 ,the working part of the manufacture was not opened to us2 as ,i had not been aware that1 for this purpose1 it was necessary to be fortified1 muni1 with a permission of the director4 ,if ,i translate muni by fortified1 it is in the sense of the ,englishman1 who being invited to be present at a mass1 assister a une messe1--asked what it was expected of him to do there4 ,we went to ,st4 ,ouen1 celebrated by ,madame de ,staeel as the birth-place of the revolution and of the charte2 and thence1 along the bank of the ,seine1 to the port of ,st4 ,denis1--the point1 that is on the river1 towards which one of the streets of the town extends itself4 ,it is a small bourg2 but the seat of a sous-prefecture4 ,on the abolition of royalty1 the ashes of the kings of ,france1 who for many ages had been interred in the church of ,st4 ,denis1 were dug up and thrown to the winds3 they were punished for the crime of having been kings1 as ,cromwell was punished for having been an usurper4 ,royalty was called an usurpation on the sovereign people4 ,the roof of the church was stripped of its lead to be melted into bullets for the use of the armies1 and the windows were broken for no use at all4 ,the building was thus left exposed to all the injuries of the seasons1 till that great counter-revolutionist ,napoleon undertook to repair it as a burial-place for the monarchs of the fourth dynasty1--a phrase by which he ingeniously reminded the ,french that1 as the race of ,capet was not the first1 it had no imprescriptible right to be the last race of their sovereigns4 ,the force of this argument prevailed1 while maintained by the argument of force4 ,the audacious roturier who had seized on the sceptre of royalty1 like the daring mortal who stole fire from heaven1 was chained on a barren rock1 with vultures1--their prey a fallen great man1--to gnaw his entrails3 on this rock he found his grave4 ,the reparations of the church of ,st4 ,denis1 continued by order of the king1 were1 at this time1 nearly completed4 ,some remains of the bodies of ,louis ,,xvi4 and his queen1 rescued from the unseemly sepulture to which infuriated republicanism had consigned them1 had been here honourably deposited4 ,we had seen the mortal spoil of the brave ,prince de ,conde lying in state at the ,palais ,bourbon2 it had here also found its place4 ,the church resembles that of ,notre ,dame2 it is not so large1 but proportionably loftier2 and the pillars1 with the whole of the architecture1 are lighter4 ,sceaux is a small town1 six miles to the south of ,paris1 situated on a ridge commanding a fine view to the south and north4 ,it is1 as well as ,st4 ,denis1 the seat of a sous-prefecture4 ,hither the ,parisians resort during summer on ,sundays to dance under arbours in gardens1 and enjoy other sports1 with the zest of those who have been long in populous cities pent4 ,james ,i4 issued an ordinance in favour of ,sunday sports3 ,charles ,i4 renewed it3 the spirit of those who observe no festival but ,sunday1 and who keep ,sunday like a fast1 prevails in ,england4 ,such persons will hardly think it a sufficient set-off against the enormities of the amusements of ,sceaux1 that1 during four months residence at ,paris1 ,i did not see one drunken man1 not even on a ,sunday4 ,the chateau of ,vincennes is an ancient feudal castle with modern additions3 it has a chace before it1 an extensive open space left for military exercises and sports of chivalry1 and to prevent surprise from an enemy1 who might1 under the shadow of a wood1 have approached too near without being discovered4 ,in the moat1 surrounding the castle1 the ,duc d',enghien was put to death4 ,every one must lament the early fate of this prince1 and the extinction of an illustrious house4 ,the duke perished for having done or attempted to do what he thought to be his duty1 and ,bonaparte1 in causing him to suffer death1 regarded himself as acting according to his own4 ,he is said to have declared at ,st4 ,helena that1 were the deed to be done again1 he would do it4 ,the greenest usurpation1 to use a phrase of ,burke's1 has never scrupled to inflict capital punishment on those who endeavoured its overthrow4 ,in the beginning of the reign of ,william ,,iii4 a man was guilty of intending the death of the king2 and having nothing to plead in his defence except the defect1 according to his reasoning1 of the king's title1 and that murderare was bad ,latin1--both which pleas were considered as equally valid by the court1--received the sentence of a traitor4 ,but some time must elapse ere the conduct of ,bonaparte be judged by principles applied to that of other men4 ,seventeen years ago1 ,i entertained the design of writing the history of the ,french revolution1 which then appeared to be terminated by the assumption of the imperial title by ,bonaparte3 a counter-revolution was in reality effected2 all was reversed that had been done during the revolution2 republican principles1--the very name of republic1--was extinguished1 and1 as a ,frenchman well expressed himself1 a la chute de ,bonaparte les ,bourbons n'avoient qu' a monter le trone tout dresse4#ah ,i was told it was too soon to write the history of so stormy a period4 ,yet ,thucydides1 ,tacitus1 ,davila1 ,clarendon1 were contemporary with the times of which they wrote4 ,it was not too soon1 at the time of ,bonaparte's elevation1 to write with impartiality1 as ,i was disposed to do1 the history of the preceding events1 but it was too soon for readers to judge without passion4 ,in the chateau is a small room1 hung with black1 with an altar1 on which1 by the care of the family of ,conde1 masses are said for the repose of the soul of their unfortunate relative2 and some military accoutrements1 said to have been his1 are shown to strangers whom sympathy may render credulous4 ,he desired to have the assistance of a priest before the execution of the sentence of the commission4 ,veux-tu mourir en capucin8#ai is said to have been the answer4 ,i pass over all other obvious reflections on this circumstance1 to remark that it implied an eulogy on the ,capucins1 which1 from all that ,i have seen and know of them1 they well deserve4 ,brutus and ,cassius were called the last of ,romans2 the ,capucins may perhaps be the last of ,christians4 ,the bottom of the fosse is flat1 about twelve feet broad3 a wall1 of the height of a man1 supports the earth of the outer side3 the spot1 where the execution took place1 was pointed out to us4 ,the sign of the cross fortified him in the absence of that other spiritual succour which had been refused to him4 ,in front of the castle is shown an oak under which ,saint ,louis was wont to sit4 ,the title of saint was given to this king honoris causa3 in his time it was honourable2 at the present day1 the recollection of his valour1 probity1 piety1 disinterestedness1 and great talents is necessary to rescue ,louis ,,ix4 from the ridicule of having been a saint and a crusader4 ,the fashion of this world passeth away3 religion would have passed away with it1 had it depended on the fashion of this world4 ,veritas ,domini manet in aeternum4 ,let those1 who now wish to maintain it1 remember that it is not truth because useful1 but useful because truth4 ,forty years ago1 who could return into the country1 after having made the visit of a countryman to ,london1 without having seen ,bedlam8 ,i was contented with the view of the two admirable statues of furious and melancholy madness at the entrance of the court4 ,i went to ,charenton without seeing the ,maison des ,fous4 ,such an asylum ought not to be an object of passing curiosity3 there may be among the patients some who are amused by visits1 but there are others who are very much afflicted by them4 ,besides1 my sons were with me3 it requires long experience and observation of the miseries of human life to harden the mind to the endurance of such a scene as a mad-house presents4 ,terror and pity have sometimes too strong an influence on young imaginations1 when excited by theatric exhibition of fictitious woe2 how much more when called forth by the sight of real misery such as this1--of man in his lowest state of degradation and wretchedness6 ,we made our remarks on the confluence of the ,seine and ,marne3 the latter is by far the more rapid river of the two1 and1 though not quite so broad1 seems to bear along a greater quantity of water4 ,it flows1 for some distance1 in the same bed with the river in which its independent existence is merged1 and its name lost1 without mingling with it1 as if resenting the injustice of its own lot4 ,this appearance ,i afterwards looked for in vain at the junction of the ,rhone and ,saoene1 though it is recorded1 if ,i mistake not1 by classical authority4 ,the ,saoene has no pretension to an equality with the ,rhone1 and ought quietly to submit to its fate4 ,on the day of my departure from ,paris1 ,i attended mass in the chapel of the ,palace of the ,tuilleries4 ,this is one of the sights that the ,english go to gaze at1 it being new to them not only in deed1 but in thought2 and even ,augusto mense1 there was great resort of them4 ,to me it appeared nothing wonderful that the ,most ,christian ,king should assist at mass2 that1 supported by his attendants on account of his great bulk1 he should place himself on his knees1 and his guards present arms1 at the moment of the elevation of the host4 ,monsieur1 now ,charles ,x4 and other members of the royal family1 passed through the room in which we were1 in their way to the tribune of the king4 ,before ,i leave ,paris1 ,i must indulge in a few remarks on the spirit of the times1 and the state of the public mind at this epoch4 ,,footnotes3 #ag ,what a little hat6 #ah ,at the fall of ,bonaparte the ,bourbons had only to mount the throne that had been set up again4 #ai ,dost thou want to die like a capucin8 ,,chap4 ,v4 ,o ,fortunatos nimium6 ,o too fortunate those who visited ,paris in the year #ahad6 ,they knew not however their own advantage1 as they foresaw not the events of the following year1 and all the changes consequent on those events4 ,the pictures and statues of the ,louvre were sent back in #ahae to the countries which had produced them1 where1 says an enthusiast for ,italy1 it is more natural to see them3 just as a whig chancellor of the exchequer said that ten per cent was the natural limit of the income tax4 ,venus and the ,graces fled to climes resembling those of ,paphos and ,cythera2 ,apollo and ,laocoeon went to be shut up in dark closets at ,rome2 the horses of ,st4 ,mark galloped off to ,venice1 leaving the beautiful arch1 constructed by ,napoleon as a pedestal for this trophy of his victories1 to be a misplaced entrance to an iron palisade4 ,but this was not all1 nor the worst3 it even served the ,english as an excuse1 though a superfluous one1 for travelling further from home3 the spirit of the ,french people was changed1 both in regard to foreigners1 and towards each other4 ,in #ahah1 ,i found it to be pretty generally believed in ,france1 that the ,english government contrived and connived at the return of ,napoleon from ,elba1 as an expedient for dividing1 weakening1 humbling1 and despoiling a rival nation4 ,it was in vain that ,i argued1 that the experiment was too hazardous a one to have been ventured upon2 that the imperial government was implacably hostile to ,england1 while the royal government was1 for the present at least1 friendly1 and likely to continue so2 that the ,english people were overwhelmed by a load of debt and taxation1 and needed repose after so long a war2 that1 had the battle of ,waterloo been lost1 they were very ill disposed for the struggle that must have ensued4 ,i was answered point by point2 that1 happen what might as to the success or discomfiture of ,napoleon1 ,england was secure1 fearing no invasion so long as ,france had no marine2 that it was the rival of ,france under whatever government2 that1 spite of its debt1 it would find means to hire the troops of the continent2 that1 had the ,prussians not come up in time to gain the battle of ,mont ,st4 ,jean1 the ,austrians and ,russians would have arrived shortly after1 and the whole force of ,europe would have been set in array4 ,before the hundred days1 all that had happened from #aghi was considered as the result of a concatenation of circumstances neither to be foreseen nor controlled2--as a visitation of ,providence1 a fatality1 a delirium4 ,this explanation had been given and received between the restored government and individuals1 and by individuals amongst each other3 all things proceeded towards union and amnesty4 ,but during the cent jours1 the medal was reversed3 many were compelled or persuaded1 or joyfully availed themselves of the occasion to manifest opinions and engage in acts contrary to royalty3 jacobinism or republicanism1 which ,napoleon in the vigour of his sway had stifled1 began again to take breath during his short and fleeting apparition2 so that the second restoration of the king found the people in every town1 in every society1 divided and discordant4 ,after the battle1 which it was unkind and unjust to refuse to call by the name of ,la ,belle ,alliance2--after this battle1 in which so many thousand human beings lost their lives1--the ,french submitted to sacrifices1 galling to every man of every party among them2 for in ,france it is permitted to every man to be a patriot4 ,their frontier-line was remeasured in a manner unfavourable to them1 in a sense contrary to that in which it had been marked out the year before3 then all that was enclave was ceded to them2 now1 whatever stretched out into the neighbouring territory was taken from them2 some fortresses were abandoned2 others were to be temporarily occupied by allied forces1 for whose sustenance the ,french paid what they regarded as enormous sums3 the spoils of victory1 and such they really were1 at the ,louvre1 were yielded up4 ,let any ,englishman suppose what would be his own feelings were such treatment dealt out to ,england by a hostile country2 and how much the soreness of his mind would be irritated1 if he imagined1 7whether truly or falsely imports not17 that these evils were the result of the machinations of the government of that country4 ,he would think the display of a little ill-humour towards individuals of that country to be very natural at least1 if not very reasonable4 ,i was therefore not much surprised nor offended by the civil god-dems1 with which we were occasionally saluted at ,paris4 ,at ,auxerre1 ,i overheard a god-dem which rather amused me4 ,my younger son had placed a table on the balcony1 and was drawing a view of the church4 ,voila un petit god-dem qui dessine1#bj said they3 this might even have been good-naturedly meant4 ,at ,chalons-sur-,saone1 as we walked in the evening by the side of the river1 we were greeted by hisses1 low and suppressed1 but still audible hisses4 ,at ,lyons1 some soldiers1 contrary to the rule of military discipline1 7for they were marching in their ranks17 and contrary to the gallantry of the military profession1 cried out a bas les ,anglois4 ,from several instances of resiliency1 coldness1 and alienation1 inconsistent with the genius of the people1 and their well-known politeness1 it was evident that the spirit of enmity was not yet subsided4 ,the practice of barter is not so well understood in ,france as in ,england4 ,a ,french shop-keeper1 7many of them at least1 though the number of such is1 ,i believe1 daily diminishing17 proposes to himself to gain1 not a certain profit on each article1 but as much as he can obtain1 the wealth1 ignorance1 and other circumstances of the customer taken into consideration4 ,a ,french gentleman1 or1 rather let us put the case1 a ,french lady1 after beating down the price of an object for half an hour1 will1 as a last effort1 leave the shop2 and1 if this valedictory demonstration does not succeed1 will return in the course of the morning to complete her purchase1 in a renewed treaty1 of which the basis is the price last named3 if1 by these manoeuvres1 a few francs are saved1 the morning has been well employed4 ,if the ,french thus bargain amongst themselves1 it may easily be imagined how they would treat1 in money matters1 with the ,english1 supposed to be indefinitely rich1 coming from a country where prices were1 during the currency of paper money1 higher than in ,france1 ignorant of ,french prices1 and affording an occasion of political revenge4 ,i really believe that1 in many instances1 the gratification of this passion was an incitement to overcharging1 stronger even than private interest4 ,at any rate1 during the first years of peace1 the ,english are said to have thrown their money out of the window3 ,i knew one of them at ,avignon who did so literally4 ,they paid ,english prices and gave ,english gratifications2 sometimes they paid more than was demanded1 as they said1 for the honour of old ,england3 having deposited a certain sum with a banker1 if the sum was spent sooner than they expected1 they had only to return home so much the sooner2 like the young ,oxonian1 who being asked how long he should stay in town1 answered twenty pounds4 ,the ,french1 who had any thing to dispose of for money naturally wished to profit by this disposition of the ,english1 which they flatteringly termed generosity2 and to have the advantage of the highest prices which these latter were willing to give3 but1 at this time1 these prices were unknown and unsettled1 and every affair of bargain and sale rose into a contest4 ,quel est votre prix1 ,monsieur8#ba said one1 of whom ,i was buying a parasol4 ,the ,parisian shop-keepers1 when they saw an ,englishman1 nodded1 and cried1 ,speculation4 ,on ne dit plus god-dem1 on dit speculation1#bb said my informant4 ,as you are an ,englishman1 you ought to pay double1 said one1 whose opinion was asked on occasion of an over-charge4 ,my voiturier1 who1 for a certain sum1 paid my expenses on the road1 told me that he would do this for a ,german family for half the money4 ,the inn-keepers set no bounds to their charges1 said he1 when they know you to be ,english2 muttering besides some words1 from which ,i inferred the hostile mind above-mentioned4 ,la jeunesse ,francaise 7so the young men of an age for military service affected to call themselves1 as if they were a corps apart17 seemed still to breathe war and defiance1 and to endeavour by fierceness of look to make up for the want of cockades and epaulettes4 ,an especial ordinance was required to prevent all who were not officers in the army from wearing moustaches4 ,these symptoms of a warlike temper were not pleasing to a peaceful visitant4 ,the whole ,french nation was1 at this time1 discontented2 and it was evident that some years must pass away before it could resume that amenity of manners which rendered it heretofore the delight of strangers4 ,all parties were discontented4 ,the prudent and conciliatory conduct of the king displeased the royalists4 ,the emigrants said1 that the restoration was to them no restoration1 since they had lost their estates2 and they complained bitterly of that provision by which the purchasers of the national domains were confirmed in their possessions3 had nothing been said on this matter1--had silence been observed on a subject on which themselves only had a right to speak1--a great part of the lands confiscated during the revolution would have been restored unconditionally1 or on terms of easy compromise1 to the ancient titulars4 ,the clause by which1 as the emigrants said1 their estates were thus a second time given away without their consent or avowal1 was reported to have been of ecclesiastical suggestion4 ,it would be unfair to suppose any man1 least of all an ecclesiastic1 capable of deriving an uncharitable consolation from having companions in misfortune2 but it is remarkable1 that no mention was ever made of the restitution of ecclesiastical property4 ,it died and made no sign4 ,the ,french clergy endured this spoliation with the patience of ,christians and the good humour of ,frenchmen1 as every one can witness who knew them in their emigration3 but1 on their return home1 they found their appointments inadequate to their services and to the augmented price of the necessaries of life4 ,that ,napoleon should descend from the throne when he could no longer maintain himself upon it1--that ,france should re-enter within her former limits1--that what was gained by victory should be lost by defeat2--all this was in order4 ,but military glory had consoled many for the loss of liberty and republican forms1--synonymes in their vocabulary3 though they needed not to go very far back in history to discover that they did not always subsist together4 ,of military glory ,napoleon had obtained for the ,french more1 beyond all comparison1 than was ever gained by any people within an equal number of years4 ,possessed of absolute power over a great empire1 he had used the means1 at his disposal1 of drawing to himself many adherents1--of founding the fortunes of many4 ,frequent suicides took place1 after his fall1 of persons whose hopes were ruined by that event4 ,some of these chose1 in preference to any other mode of self-destruction1 to throw themselves from the top of the column erected by ,napoleon in the ,place ,vendome3 insomuch that1 when ,i was in ,paris1 an order was still in force that no one should be allowed to ascend the column without a permission1 that it might be ascertained that they had no motive but curiosity4 ,such were the discontents of the ,bonapartists4 ,had ,bonaparte contented himself with being the first magistrate of the republic1--had he allowed its name and forms to subsist1--he would have identified himself with the cause and party of the revolution4 ,but he had put down the revolution2 and in #ahad the question was no longer between a monarchical and democratic government1 but between the ancient claimant and the recent possessor4 ,one of the evils1 7and they were many17 resulting to ,napoleon from the assumption of the imperial purple1 was that he himself became personally the object of hostilities4 ,of this no one was more sensible than himself3 he said to his friends1 ,they will crush1 first me1 then you1 then ,france4 ,france was not crushed3 the king returned1 and the charter was given4 ,the republicans could not complain that a monarchy1 a government by one1 was imposed upon them2 they had themselves submitted to it4 ,but an argument drawn from a former defeat was not suited to make them quite pleased with a second4 ,they reposed2 but it was the repose of lassitude1 not of contented acquiescence4 ,the prudence of ,louis ,,xviii4 succeeded in uniting all parties1 though blamed by all2 in obliterating1 if not the memory1 at least many of the sensible traces of what ,france had endured4 ,both ,royalists and ,napoleonists complained that whatever the court had to dispose of was given to the other party4 ,just before ,i left ,england1 ,i was advised by a friend1 lately returned from ,paris1 by no means to venture into ,france4 ,if the king dies1 said he1 and his health is very bad1 there will certainly be a kick-up4 ,my counsellor saw a very little way into futurity3 he himself1 being about the age of ,louis ,,xviii4 died within two years after4 ,five years later the king terminated in peace an anxious but successful reign3 the demise of the crown caused not the least disturbance2 its quiet devolution on his successor seems rather to have strengthened the ancient notion of hereditary right4 ,paris1 since the time to which my account of it refers1 has been improved and increased4 ,it is the lot of all old cities in a state of great prosperity to have a new town built near them3 of this ,london1 ,edinburgh1 ,marseilles1 ,lyons1 ,bath1 and ,liverpool are examples4 ,mend you8 said the chairman to ,mr4 ,pope1 in reply to his accustomed exclamation1--,god mend me1 ,mend you8 it would not be half the trouble to make another4 ,old ,paris is1 however1 worth mending3 the case is by no means so desperate as that of a deformed man like ,pope4 ,they have begun to make trottoirs4 ,when ,i was in ,paris1 the trottoirs being paved like the middle of the street1 persons on foot had no inducement to walk on them in preference to the middle of the street2 people exposed merchandises there1 roasted coffee1 blacked shoes1 or played at cards3 the cabriolets ran along them where there was a vacant space1 sometimes where there was no vacant space at all4 ,when the trottoirs shall be such as carriages cannot drive on1 the foot passengers will occupy them1 and the encumbrances1 above-mentioned1 will be removed of course4 ,i went up to a man who was cleaning a lantern in the ,rue ,neuve des ,mathurins1 and made him understand that ,i wished to be instructed in what manner the popular sentence of condemnation a la lanterne was executed in the beginning of the revolution4 ,i had remarked1 that he was old enough to have remembered such scenes2 when near him1 ,i saw a face that testified that he had in all probability been an agent in them3 he told me drily1 ,on ote la lanterne1 et on monte l'homme a sa place4#bc ,he spoke in the present tense1 be it observed3 the recollection of such achievements was fresh in his mind1 and he showed no symptom that it was unpleasant to him4 ,these lanterns have a cumbrous and heavy appearance in the day time2 and hanging over the middle of the street1 they stop all passing while they are cleaned or lighted4 ,they have begun to light the streets of ,paris with gas3 the pipes1 ,i am informed1 are not air-tight2 but1 once undertaken1 this enterprise will no doubt be soon brought to perfection1 as well as others already in contemplation4 ,paris1 in the old parts of it1 is1 as the ,french express it1 mal percee4 ,the way to remedy this evil is obvious4 ,i will venture to suggest one improvement1--that the ,rue ,st4 ,honore be continued1 no matter whether in a straight or curved line1 through the streets of ,st4 ,denis and ,st4 ,martin1 by piercing these two streets1 to the line of streets which lead to the ,place de l',elephant and the ,rue du ,fauxbourg ,st4 ,antoine4 ,i will also take the liberty of hinting that a populous city can well afford to keep its streets clean3 the streets themselves pay this expense2 and the greater the quantity of dirt1 the better they defray it4 ,i have sometimes passed into the most thickly-inhabited parts of the city of ,london1 and have been surprised to observe the streets to be cleaner than in ,mary-la-bonne and at the west end of the town1 where the population is less condensed4 ,the reason is plain3 it oftener becomes worth while to carry away the material of the dung-heap from the streets of the city1 than from the quarter where they are wider in proportion to the population4 ,but every parish of the ,english capital receives a sum towards its poor-rate1 in exchange for the privilege of cleaning its streets4 ,at ,paris nothing is wanting but a reglement de police4 ,paris is extending itself1 towards the west and the north especially3 in time1 the ,boulevard without the walls may become a second interior ,boulevard4 ,while ,i doubted whether ,i should continue in ,paris1 or go to live in a provincial town1 ,i looked at several hotels1 houses with a porte cochere1#bd in the ,fauxbourg ,st4 ,germain3 the rent demanded for these was three or four thousand francs3 at present they are let for ten thousand francs a year4 ,the speculators in building1 of course1 find their profit in what they undertake so largely4 ,i congratulated those who had visited ,paris in #ahad4 ,many highly estimable works of art of the ,french school begin however now to supply the place of those taken away by their old owners4 ,english travellers in ,france1 and those with whom they have to do1 understand each other better than at the time when ,i began my journey2 and more accommodations to the ,english taste are provided4 ,the rivalry between ,france and ,england will subsist as long as the geographical position of the two countries3 but no people are more willing than the ,french1 in ordinary cases1 and when not stimulated by strong incitements1 to distinguish between the nation and the individual4 ,thus far we may all be cosmopolites2 though nations be divided1 let men be united4 ,indeed1 ,i observed a sensible difference in the behaviour of my neighbours at ,avignon1 from the day which ,louis ,,xviii4 wisely declared to be the happiest of his life1--when no banner but that of ,france floated within its territory4 ,,footnotes3 #bj ,look at that little god-dem who is drawing4 #ba ,what is your price1 ,sir8 #bb ,they do not say1 god-dem any longer2 they say speculation4 #bc ,they take down the lamp1 and mount the man up in its place4 #bd ,gate at which a coach can enter4 ,,chap4 ,,vi4 ,on the sixteenth of ,august1 at one in the afternoon1 the carriage came to the door which was to convey us from ,paris4 ,we took a light and hasty lunch1 or nuncheon1 or noonshine1 or meridian repast1 while the trunks were tying on2 and at two1 were ready to depart2 when up steps the mistress of the house1 requesting me to verify the inventory4 ,why did you not come sooner8--,we were unwilling to disturb you while you were dining4--,why did not you propose this business to me this morning when ,i paid my rent8--,we did not know you were going away4 ,it is very improbable that ,i should not have made them understand that it was because ,i was going away that ,i paid my rent2 but it is one disadvantage of being a foreigner1 that all1 who find it their interest1 may choose to misunderstand4 ,i had taken lodgings for short periods in ,london1 and at what are called watering-places in ,england1 where no inventory was made1 consequently none was verified3 but here confidence was not so well established1 or there were other reasons4 ,it was the usage of the country2 it was necessary to submit4 ,the apartment was furnished with an abundance of mirrors1 some handsome pieces of mahogany1 a rare wood in ,france2 sofas1 and fauteuils1 and a most plentiful lack of almost every necessary article4 ,my cook had hardly wherewithal to prepare our meals1 and was obliged to sleep in the kitchen3 a chamber had been promised2 but the key of this chamber was not to be found when the lodging was taken1 and the door was never opened afterwards4 ,kitchen utensils had been promised1 and1 during the first fortnight1 frequently demanded3 at last the silence of despair succeeded to hopeless importunity1 as a fine writer might perhaps express himself4 ,but1 to the inventory4 ,the grand articles were quickly dispatched3 luckily my children had broken no looking-glasses1 though surrounded by them4 ,but when we came to the china and the crockery1--ay1 then was the question3 after the bona fide broken had been disposed of1 about which there could be no dispute1 except that some were broken only because they were already cracked1--then was the question whether such or such articles were damaged by us1 or before we came to the house4 ,an ornamental china vase had been supplied1 and its fellow promised3 this fellow jar was now found to have but one ear1 whereas its mate had two4 ,the edges of the fracture were rounded by use1 and dirt was seen in the interstices4 ,but ,i paid what was required1 for the carriage was at the door4 ,i have heard of a travelling ,englishman1 of whom was demanded1 on his leaving his apartment1 the price of a cracked pane of glass3 his conscience acquitted him of the deed3 after having for some time fruitlessly pleaded his innocence1 he quietly raised his cane1 and broke in pieces the cause of the altercation4 ,this pane shall be paid for no more1 said he1 patriotically mindful of the interests of his successors4 ,at length we were seated in our coach4 ,it was a roomy1 handsome berline1 holding conveniently six persons3 on the outside was a covered seat or cabriolet3 the place of the voiturier1 conductor1 or coachman was between the fore-wheels3 the carriage was drawn by three horses4 ,when three horses were proposed to me by the master voiturier1 ,i started with amazement4 ,why not four8--,that would be too many4--,why not two8--,that would be too few4 ,he gravely assured me that such was the practice1 and he spoke truth4 ,english travellers and readers of travels are1 by this time1 well acquainted with voitures drawn by three horses2 but in #ahah1 ,i believe many of my compatriots shared my surprise at so odd a number4 ,i engaged this voiture to convey me to ,avignon for eight hundred francs4 ,for forty-eight francs a day1 the coachman was to pay my expenses at the inns3 the price was rather extravagant1 as four of my six children might1 as the master himself calculated1 be rated as two grown persons3 but ,i insisted on coffee in the morning before we should set off1 my family being not yet accustomed to travel till ten or eleven o'clock in the morning without any breakfast1 though such is the usual practice on the continent4 ,besides1 this part of the agreement was revocable at my pleasure4 ,i was also at liberty to quit my carriage at ,chalons-sur-,saone1 paying a proportionate share of the price4 ,i had seen1 at the master's stables1 three very good horses which ,i engaged for my journey4 ,the day before my departure1 he told me these horses were gone in another direction1 but that ,i should have three others equally good4 ,as ,i saw no reason why he should prefer another customer to me1 ,i assented4 ,he supplied me with two stout horses and a very weakly one4 ,louis1 my coachman1 told me1 afterwards1 that his master had found an opportunity of selling the three horses ,i had first seen1 and to make up my number had been obliged to buy one from a fiacre the very day of my departure4 ,it is impossible to be aware of all the oblique means and motives of men of the character of this voiturier4 ,all the defence that can be prepared against them is1 to see every thing1 write down every thing1 and1 above all1 to have time at command4 ,this mode of travelling by the voiturier is now generally adopted by travellers of the first respectability1 and where the whole voiture is engaged1 differs in no respect from travelling in a private carriage1 except that the right of property in the horses and carriage is but temporary1 and the coachman does not wear a livery4 ,i am acquainted with persons1 who would not choose to be considered otherwise than as persons of distinction1 who have travelled in this way4 ,i have seen attestations of the good conduct of the coachman or voiturier signed with names1 some of which were known to me1 and sealed with armorial bearings1 according to the ,english use abroad4 ,i dwell on this point1 because voituriers are unknown in ,england1 and the mode of travelling is in low repute abroad1 where1 from the way in which it is practised1 it is impossible it should be creditable4 ,in ,france and ,italy there are but few stage-coaches1 and no good ones but between the towns on the channel and ,paris4 ,the post-houses furnish no carriages1 but horses only4 ,in every great town there are persons whose trade is to keep carriages ready for those who want to take journeys1 but have no carriage of their own4 ,two or three places being engaged1 the voiturier1 now afloat1 makes up his cargo as he can3 rather than have any vacant space in his carriage1 he will sell it at a low rate to such as can afford to pay but low prices2 he then makes up with dead lumber what is wanting in weight of live stock2 and the good people1 thus assembled1 thus encumbered1 proceed as they can under the auspices of the conductor1 who presides at their meals4 ,all this accounts very well for some ,english making a difficulty in avowing their having travelled by the voiturier1 and for the ,french aubergistes and others confounding1 at first1 all inmates of carriages of the same denomination4 ,i do not suppose that any respectable ,english family has travelled in the manner above described4 ,i do not know that any single persons have done so4 ,it is evident that a voiture1 engaged for the sole use and service of him who hires it1 is quite another thing4 ,i would have purchased a berline at ,paris1 and travelled post1--a plan not more expensive1 as ,i could have gone twice as far in the day as with the same horses it was possible to do1--but the regulations of the post not only require six horses for six persons1 but make no provision for any number more than six in the same carriage1--a case as little contemplated as parricide among the ancient ,romans4 ,i must therefore have had two carriages1 or disputed the question at every post-house4 ,add to this1 that a travelling carriage is not well-suited for a town1 nor a town carriage for travelling4 ,the places in the cabriolet were a perpetual subject of contest among my children1 and ,i had enough to do to arbitrate who should ride outside4 ,louis1 the coachman1 was very good-natured to them1 and never complained of the frequent interruptions and trouble which they caused him4 ,this was the more laudable in him1 as he was a ,breton2 and the ,bretons1 like those from whom they derive their origin1--the ancient ,britons of ,wales1--are said to have la tete chaude3#be ,louis1 on several occasions1 was hot-headed enough4 ,he had served1 as had almost every man at this time in ,france1 and had been a sous-officier2 and1 while my eldest son and ,i walked by his side in mounting the hills1 regaled us with accounts of his military exploits1 amongst which he seemed to consider his duels as giving the most indisputable proof of personal and individual courage4 ,he said that there had been a great deal of coquinerie#bf in the revolution1--an opinion in which he was by no means singular2 and that1 if it should break out again1 there would be more assassination than ever4 ,neither was he singular in his apprehension of new troubles3 a priest1 whom ,i met at ,paris1 told me1 la revolution ne fait que commencer4#bg ,his wish assuredly was not father to that thought4 ,all this was pleasant hearing to a man who had embarked his family in an expedition like mine4 ,the event proves the wisdom of the king1 whom his party declared not to be a royalist4 ,the horse1 that had passed the morning in the streets of ,paris in his quality of hackney-coach horse1 was in no condition for a journey4 ,louis said he was tired with waiting so long in the street3 he seemed to allude to the time employed in verifying the inventory2 he explained afterwards how and why the expression was equivocal4 ,i had made1 on this subject1 useless because tardy reproaches to the master4 ,the horse had1 however1 time to recover his strength1 as ,i would not quit ,paris till the afternoon of the first day of my journey1 it being ,sunday1 and had planned to pass the evening of the second1 and morning of the third day1 at ,fontainebleau4 ,we arrived by the light of the full moon at ,essonne1 where a good supper1 with a fine dessert of fruit1 and the air of the country1 gave us high expectations of the pleasures of a journey to the south of ,france4 ,,footnotes3 #be ,to be hot-headed4 #bf ,roguery4 #bg ,the revolution is only just beginning4 ,,chap4 ,,vii4 ,the son of the aubergiste at ,essonne was1 as almost every ,frenchman is1 a conversable man3 he talked to me1 while ,i waited to set off in the morning1 of the ,english who lived or had lived near ,essonne2 among others1 of the ,duc de ,fitzjames1 who1 if ,i understood him right1 had a country house in the neighbourhood4 ,why do you call him ,english8 said ,i4 ,the name is ,english4--,the family has been ,french for more than a century4 ,he wished for an explanation4 ,it is descended from ,james ,,ii4 of ,england1 whom we chased away because he was an honest man1 as you put to death ,louis ,,xvi4 because he was ,bienfaisant4 ,he answered1 with much discretion1 ,on s'oublie quelquefois4#bh ,the fine old oaks and the green rocks of the forest of ,fontainebleau pleased us much3 at intervals and openings of the wood we caught very agreeable views of the distant country4 ,we descended into the town1 by no means a handsome one2 but our business was to see the palace4 ,it is in a low situation1 surrounded by hills1 not bold or romantic1 but of pleasing forms2 at a sufficient distance1 so that it is sheltered without being straitly enclosed4 ,it is a convenient and very large house1 with ample space for the display of all the pomp of royalty1 ,the chapel is equal in size1 though not in ornament1 to that of ,versailles4 ,there is a handsome gallery which ,napoleon furnished with busts of great men1 whose pretensions to the title of great are so different1 that they certainly would never have met except as busts in a gallery4 ,there is a theatre1 a banquetting room1 and several suites of fine apartments4 ,one apartment1 or set of rooms1 had been inhabited successively by the ,comte d',artois1 now ,king ,charles ,x4 by the ,pope ,pius ,,vii4 and by his grace the ,duke of ,wellington4 ,the ,indian fable says1 that a palace is a caravansera2 but such a succession of guests surpasses fable in strangeness4 ,in the chamber of the king was a state bed of suitable magnificence3 passing into a second chamber1 in which was a very low bed1 ,i remarked to our conductor that this bed would be more convenient for his majesty2 and the conductor1 after a little hesitation1 allowed that1 as ,i suspected1 the king did1 in effect1 sleep on this bed4 ,george ,,iii4 inhabited the ,queen's palace in ,london1 and the lodge near the castle at ,windsor3 he was said to live always next door to himself4 ,the king of ,france1 at ,fontainebleau1 sleeps in the next room to his own2 at least1 ,louis ,,xviii4 did so4 ,a small1 ordinary1 round table was pointed out as a curiosity3 it was that on which ,napoleon signed the act of his abdication in favour of ,napoleon ,,ii4 ,the cession was enforced2 the condition was of course neglected4 ,napoleon retired to ,elba1 an emperor without empire1 a father of a family deprived of the company of his wife and son2 too weak to be safe1 yet too great not to be feared3 disgusted with the anomalies1 of his situation1 he made an effort that1 in its consequences1 plunged him into one1 in which there were1 at least1 no inconsistencies to be complained of3 all was plain and intelligible3 the high blood of ,europe avenged itself on the ,avocat's son1 who1 if he had been ,monsieur le ,comte de ,bonaparte1 would have been treated with more consideration4 ,the garden of ,fontainebleau is handsomely laid out in straight walks1 square pieces of water1 and abundance of shade1 at this season very desirable4 ,as we left the garden1 my younger son ran off in pursuit of a water rat1 and we followed1 in pursuit of him1 the course of one of those beautiful fountains from which the place derives its name4 ,as ,i looked round for him1 ,i observed an elderly man1 decorated with one or more orders1 who accosted me with much politeness1 and asked what ,i was looking for4 ,wishing to obtain information respecting any further object of curiosity1 ,i began3--,monsieur1 je suis etranger1 et-- ,he interrupted3 ,je le vois bien1 ,monsieur1 et c'est pourquoi je veux vous etre utile4#bi ,he asked if we had seen the chateau2 and1 on my replying in the affirmative1 expressed his regret that he had not met with us sooner4 ,i learned afterwards that he was the ,marechal ,duc de ,coigny1 at that time gouverneur du chateau de ,fontainebleau4 ,he directed me to a treillis which ran the whole length of a garden wall exposed to the south4 ,the situation was even too favourable for the vines that covered the treillis2 as1 though very fine and healthy1 they had pushed out many large branches without fruit4 ,grapes however1 there were in abundance2 and1 had they been ripe1 no doubt ,m4 le ,gouverneur would have invited us to eat of them4 ,at any rate1 the fox's reasoning had here no place4 ,the next day we arrived at ,sens4 ,in the cathedral of this place is a very fine piece of sculpture1 the tomb of the ,dauphin son of ,louis ,,xv4 ,it will hardly be believed that1 during the revolutionary fury1 the populace were only restrained by force from breaking in pieces the statues of this tomb1 out of hatred to royalty4 ,i observed to the sacristan3--,le bon peuple de ,sens n'est pas apparemment un peuple de bon sens4#cj ,in a chapel1 under the invocation of ,st4 ,thomas of ,canterbury1 is a painting representing his interview with the pope at this place1 to which he retired during his unjust exile4 ,the memory of ,thomas a ,becket has been unmercifully slandered by our philosophical and protestant historians4 ,it is their way4 ,at ,auxerre we found an inn very pleasantly situated on the banks of the ,yonne with the vine-covered hills of ,burgundy in full view4 ,it was fortunate that the inn was agreeable1 and the people of the house very good-humoured1 the chances being very much against both the one and the other2 for here we were detained one day by the illness of ,mrs4 ----4 ,a physician attended1 who1 on his second visit1 recommended the use of the hot bath1 which removed the cause of the complaint1 and all was well again4 ,hot baths are to be found in every great town in ,france1 at a very moderate price1--a circumstance which proves that they are much in use1 as it is the number of customers only that renders the article cheap4 ,the ,french are in general cleanly in their persons1 whatever their streets may be3 they are also cleanly in their houses1 though they have not the fastidious and troublesome neatness of the ,english1 nor the perpetual scrubbings and polishings of the ,dutch4 ,household linen1 both for bed and table1 is plentiful amongst them4 ,i began at ,auxerre the use of the hot bath1 which ,i have continued every summer that ,i have not passed on the sea coast4 ,in winter it is too cold1--not to go into hot water1 but to come out of it4 ,as we travelled neither with great speed1 nor far in one day1 nor in the heat of the day1 the physician1 on calling to take leave1 said we might continue our journey without any risk of inconvenience to his patient4 ,we ascended therefore that range of hills among which are found the sources of those rivers which flow into the ocean by the ,seine and the ,meuse1 and of those which1 however slowly they glide at first1 are precipitated into the ,mediterranean by the ,rhone4 ,this tract of country continued for two days1 and is a very interesting one4 ,let those who fancy all riches to be derived from commerce only1 compare this broad ridge with the plain on each side of it1 and they will perceive that a fertile soil ought to enter for something into the computation of the wealth of nations4 ,this mountainous region1 in the part where we crossed it1 and1 by parity of reasoning1 in every part of it1 is cultivated with the greatest care and industry3 it produces wine that ranks in the highest estimation both at home and in foreign countries3 yet the inhabitants seem poor1 the towns are large villages1 the villages are collections of ruinous huts4 ,yet had this poverty not found its way into the inns1 it would have been a most pleasing country to travel through4 ,the summits of the hills were covered with wood1 wherever there was a sufficient depth of earth to admit a tree to be planted2 the sides were overspread with vines ranged in order1 well pruned1 and glowing with fruit now nearly ripe4 ,at the lowest declivities of the hills were corn fields2 in the valleys1 through almost every one of which ran a stream of the purest water1 were pastures2 and here was seen1 what is so much wanted in southern landscape1--verdure and cattle4 ,it may be remembered that1 in the year #ahaf1 large masses of ice detached themselves from the coasts of the ,arctic regions1 where they had been accumulating for centuries1 and that huge mountains of ice were met with at a very low latitude in the ,atlantic1 where it finally thawed1 and mingled with the waters of the ocean1 but not without having spread cold and moisture over almost every country of the west of ,europe4 ,i grew my own corn at this time2 but was obliged this year to buy corn of the preceding harvest1 as1 of my own1 could be made nothing better than an unwholesome paste instead of bread4 ,the three vintages before this season of fusion of icebergs1 and diffusion of humidity1 had been but indifferently good3 perhaps the god ,mars has been more worshipped than the god ,bacchus1 and thence1 notwithstanding the well-known confidence of ,napoleon in the principle of population1 hands were wanting to prune and hoe the vines4 ,the vintages of #ahaf1 and of the following year1 had almost entirely failed4 ,france was now absolutely threatened with a dearth of wine3 the stock in hand was nearly exhausted4 ,but the promise of the present vintage put every one in high spirits3 ,i was assured by the delighted ,burgundians that it would equal in produce1 and far surpass in quality1 those of the five preceding years4 ,in effect1 the wine of #ahah was afterwards compared with that of the year of the comet1 still cited at this time in advertisements of sales of wine4 ,at every step1 we met with long cars laden with barrels or staves of barrels2 the coopers were all in full activity at the doors of their shops2 all the world was in high expectation2 and our sympathy with their pleasure was heightened by the cool refreshing air1 bringing with it cheerfulness1 health1 and elasticity4 ,something in very deed was required to put or keep us in good humour1 for the inns were bad enough to try the patience of that old patriarchal exemplar of patience more frequently cited than imitated4 ,of eatables indeed there was enough1 and the beds were not bad2 but the wine was sour2 the peaches as hard as those found on the chimney-piece of a lady's boudoir2 and the grapes1 though very pretty to look at1 wanted a month's longer exposure to the sun3 the apples even were not ripe4 ,when any thing was asked for beyond objects of the first and most obvious necessity1 the answer1 was1 il n'y en a point4#ca ,i asked for an extinguisher4 ,il n'y en a point4--,how do they put out candles in this country8--,ma foi1 ,monsieur1 mais on les souffle4#cb--,not always1 said ,i1 pointing to black and greasy spots on the wall4 ,of the seven ways of putting out a candle which ,dean ,swift has taught1 ,i prefer1 in cases of necessity1 that by which the light and the odour are extinguished at once2 and here the floor was the better for it4 ,to account for the poverty of a country1 in which is found1 in abundance1 so rich a product as wine1 it must be recollected how small a proportion the land covered with vines bears to the whole tract4 ,this reasoning may be usefully applied to other countries similarly circumstanced4 ,on the third day after leaving ,auxerre1 we arrived1 by a very steep descent1 on the plain of the ,saone2--a plain at some time covered with water1 which1 depositing a loamy and fertile sediment1 retired gradually into beds of rivers4 ,the surface of the earth clearly indicates that it has once been sea without shore2 the rivers that are still supplied by perennial sources in the higher elevations1 hold on their course2 many are dried up1 leaving valleys to be watered by the dews and the clouds of heaven4 ,the plain of the ,saone continues below ,macon3 its products are such as may be expected on strong land in such a climate2 among others1 bled de ,turquie1 as the ,french call maize or ,indian corn4 ,arthur ,young1 in his admirable ,tour1 divides ,france into four agricultural regions3 in the first the vine is not2 in the second maize is not2 in the third the olive is not2 in the fourth1 ,minerva1 ,ceres1 ,bacchus1 ,pomona1 all conspire and dispense their united gifts4 ,i was pleased to hear some ,french speak highly of ,young's ,tour3 they said it had told them many things they did not know before1 and had been of great service to them4 ,it is thus that1 while nation wars against nation1 man may communicate good to man4 ,the coche d'eau1 as it is whimsically called1 is a passage-boat which plies between ,chalons and ,lyons3 places are reserved in it for those who may arrive by the diligence from ,paris4 ,it is roomy enough1 but ,i found it very dirty3 to remain under the deck1 at this season of the year1 would have been stifling1 and on the deck there was no tent or awning4 ,i determined to proceed in my berline4 ,we made our noon-tide repast at ,tournus1 where ,i walked into the church2 for in ,france the churches are open every day1 and all day long2 and there ,i saw an image of the ,blessed ,virgin in the dress of a lady of the court of ,louis ,,xiv4 ,i talked afterwards with a well-meaning ,catholic on the absurdity of this costume3 he observed1 that if the ,blessed ,virgin were exhibited in the dress of a carpenter's wife1 the people would not respect her4 ,the people are not so silly3 they1 at least1 are not ashamed of the cross of ,christ1 whatever the great may be3 why should the poor be ashamed of the poverty of the mother of the ,redeemer8 ,macon1 where we slept1 is a flourishing town3 we left it at sun-rise1 as we were to pass a steep and lofty hill in our road to ,lyons4 ,from this height we descried the mountains of ,switzerland and ,savoy1 amongst which ,mont ,blanc was seen with his snow-topped summit4 ,the view was indistinct1 but imagination supplied the defects of the visual nerve4 ,the ,alps are in the domain of history and poetry4 ,we alighted1 or descended as the ,french say1 at ,lyons1 at the ,hotel du ,parc4 ,it was the fete de ,st4 ,louis2 the city was illuminated3 of these splendors we had a good view1 as the ,hotel de ,ville was opposite our windows4 ,the people danced in the ,place ,terreaux all night1 and all night we listened to the sound of their rejoicings1 for the bugs hindered us from sleeping4 ,in the morning ,i complained of them to the femme de chambre1 who positively denied that there were any in the house4 ,i showed her five that lay slain on the sheet3 she still positively denied that there were any in the house4 ,a modest assurance is certainly very becoming4 ,i laughed in anger1 which1 though not quite so poetical as laughing in tears1 is equally natural1 when unqualified anger avails nothing4 ,i complained to the mistress of the house3 she admitted the fact without requiring ocular demonstration1--a superfluous motive of credibility2 and promised other beds3 but1 as probably no change could be made for the better1 we changed not4 ,the cathedral church of ,lyons is worthy of the metropolitan see of ,france2 it is in the style of the florid or latest ,gothic1 and highly ornamented3 it is very large2 a word that may be here taken in its ,french sense of broad2 for it is in breadth that it exceeds other churches equally long4 ,it had been much injured during the revolution2 but what is most beautiful in it could not be destroyed without the destruction of the building itself4 ,the chapel of ,st4 ,louis is superbly decorated4 ,place ,bellecour1 or ,place ,louis ,,xiv4 or ,place ,bonaparte1 by the pertinacity of prescription1 retains its first name1 and is indeed a square which great men might be ambitious of having named after them4 ,it is almost too vast3 that is1 the distance of the sides from each other destroys its unity3 its extent1 however1 makes it an agreeable promenade2 on the south side are rows of trees4 ,the streets in the neighbourhood of this square are handsome and well built3 the rest of the town is what an old manufacturing populous city may be supposed to be3 the quay on the majestic ,rhone is a striking sight4 ,following the course of the river along a raised road or dike1 we arrive at the piece of ground recovered from the river by means of this dike2 which ground was given by the municipal authorities to ,napoleon1 who intended to build a palace on this spot1 at the junction of the ,saone and ,rhone4 ,i talked with a labourer who had been employed in levelling the land3 further than this1 the work was not proceeded in4 ,the situation is admirable3 a lofty edifice1--and can one suppose that the palace of ,napoleon would have been any other than a lofty edifice8--would have commanded a view of ,lyons and of the surrounding hills and country3 besides all this1 the river presents here the appearance of a large and beautiful lake1 its stream being hidden1 at a little distance from the point of confluence1 by intervening ground4 ,whether ,paris1 ,lyons1 or ,constantinople was destined to be the capital of the ,french empire is a doubt1 for the solution of which we must now interrogate the grave4 ,the cathedral of ,vienne is a very fine church1 and the loftiest within of any ,i have ever seen1 and ,i have seen all the cathedrals in ,england4 ,in the earliest age of ,christianity1 at ,vienne1 ,lyons1 and ,tournus1 those whom the church honours under the common name of the martyrs of ,vienne1 sealed their faith with their blood4 ,we passed the ,isere by a ferry2 the bridge1 destroyed four years before1 during the war1 not having been yet rebuilt2 and this on the high road from ,paris to ,marseilles4 ,valence was the last prison of ,pope ,pius ,,vi4 for here he died4 ,philosophers and protestants flattered themselves that he was the last of the popes3 they forgot the reasoning of ,gamaliel4 ,at an indifferent inn where we rested at mid-day1 at the sign of the ,grand ,monarque1 among other scribblings on the wall of our apartment1 ,i observed a note to the following effect3--,englishmen1 beware of the ,grand ,monarque6 ,i paid five francs for my bed1--a bed in this chamber666 ,i paid seven francs for my supper4 ,the writer states of what dishes his moderate supper consisted1 complains of the wine1 and concludes with some indignant and patriotic effusions4 ,we were now in the country of the olive1 and the flat roofs indicated that we were to pass a winter very different from any that we had hitherto experienced2 a winter without snow4 ,the whole road from ,lyons to ,avignon may be considered as beautiful3 we rarely quitted the banks of the ,rhone1 and always with regret3 on each side of the river are fine hills1 surmounted with chateaus1 many of which had the picturesque advantage of being in ruins4 ,the heat did not incommode us1 except in the beginning of the afternoon of two days out of the five employed in this journey from ,lyons1 where1 as an ,avignonais observed1 the north begins1 and where1 of course1 the south began to us4 ,madame de ,stael says--,le vrai midi commence a ,naples4#cc ,ask where's the north8 ,the badness of the inns would have been1 at this season of the year1 but a trifling inconvenience1 but for the bugs2 at the last inn at which we slept on the road they were in swarms4 ,i complained to the innkeeper3 he said there might1 perchance1 be one or two1 mais cela doit etre une espece de miracle4#cd ,almost every one has poor relations or friends of whom he is ashamed1 but of whom he cannot get rid without adopting the ingenious expedient of the ,vicar of ,wakefield1--an expedient unfortunately not applicable to bugs1 non missura cutem nisi plena cruoris2 although their hosts and entertainers are sufficiently unwilling to acknowledge their presence4 ,at ,orange we passed under a triumphal arch1 called of ,caius ,marius1 much finer and better preserved than any edifice of the same kind at ,rome4 ,here are also the remains of an amphitheatre encumbered with buildings4 ,here we saw the process of winding the silk from the worm3 the cocon or egg is thrown into boiling water to dissolve the gum4 ,at ,skegness1 on the ,lincolnshire coast1 ,i have seen panier-fulls of living shrimps treated in the same manner4 ,,footnotes3 #bh ,people forget themselves sometimes4 #bi ,sir1 ,i am a stranger4--,so ,i perceive1 ,sir1 and for that reason ,i wish to be of service to you4 #cj ,the good people of ,sens are1 apparently1 not a people of good sense4 #ca ,there is none4 #cb ,faith1 ,sir1 they blow them out4 #cc ,the true south begins at ,naples4 #cd ,that must be a sort of miracle4 ,,chap4 ,,viii4 ,the entrance into ,avignon prepossesses a stranger in its favour3 he passes through a gate of modern construction into a square in which are several well-grown trees2 in front is the theatre1 on each side a large inn and other houses3 this is called the ,place de la ,comedie4 ,we were set down at the ,palais ,royal1 where we found good chambers and beds4 ,hot baths1 a l'instar de ,paris1 as the sign expressed it1 were opposite our inn1 and the next morning some of the family took advantage of them4 ,i paid ,louis1 my coachman1 the balance of his account1 for ,i had advanced him money on the road2 and gave him such a generous bonne main1 that he was1 ,i saw1 ashamed of having once or twice made us fare ill on the road4 ,the sum of the expenses of my journey from ,paris1 not including the bonne main1 was a little more than sixteen hundred francs4 ,a banker1 or dealer in money only1 is not to be found1 except in the largest commercial towns of ,france1 and provincial notes are unknown4 ,the ,parisian banker had referred me to a negociant and manufacturer of silk1 who1 during my stay at ,avignon1 supplied the absence of a regular priest of ,plutus2 loading me1 at my pleasure1 with heavy five-franc pieces1 for which he required only good bills on ,paris1 or on ,london1 where also he had a correspondence4 ,i am obliged to call him a negociant1 as marchand means a shop-keeper2 nay1 a dealer in the pettiest wares is called a merchant3 a seller of milk is a marchand de lait4 ,as for shops1 they have disappeared3 every shop is a magasin1 so that ,france is not a nation boutiquiere1 whatever ,england may be4 ,i called on my banker this morning1 and consulted him on my establishment4 ,we retired to rest early in the evening1 but were soon after disturbed by the noise of loud voices below3 it ceased after a short hubbub4 ,on inquiring the cause next day1 the waiter told us that the ,english prince had descended at the ,palais ,royal1 but that the authorities had presented themselves1 and had engaged him to pass to the ,hotel d',europe1 where they had prepared for his reception2 and that the noise was caused by the passage of the prince and his suite1 attended by the authorities4 ,this was a very prudent1 but rather an imperfect statement3 it was the truth1 but not the whole truth4 ,the fact was that the ,duke of ,gloucester1 in his tour through ,france1 arrived at ,avignon3 he had sent forward a courier1 who had given orders for his reception at our inn1 where he was set down2 but1 while he was taking tea1 the prefect of the department and the mayor of the city waited on him to request that he would accept of the hospitality of the town1 and representing that preparations had been made accordingly at the ,hotel d',europe4 ,his ,royal ,highness thought proper to accede to this polite invitation4 ,madame ,moulin1 the mistress of our inn1 enraged at the loss of the honour and profit of the prince's company1 and transported beyond the bounds of discretion1 broke out into violent invectives against ,m4 le ,prefet and ,m4 le ,maire1 who1 to punish an insult offered to them in the presence of the ,english prince1 committed ,madame ,moulin to prison4 ,moulin told me this story1 adding1 ,ma femme est tres sensible4#ce ,if her sensibility provoked her to make all the clamour we heard at ten o'clock the evening before1 she certainly merited1 and was probably benefited by1 the restraint imposed on her1 which1 by the intercession of the prince1 lasted only twenty hours4 ,moulin has as much the appearance of a bon vivant as if he were an ,english landlord1 but with a cast of ,french manners4 ,a very pretty young ,english lady 7so she was described to me17 admired his great ,newfoundland dog1 but said1 ,m4 ,moulin1 ,i am afraid of him3 will he bite me8--,non1 ,mademoiselle2 mon chien ne vous mordera pas3 fut il un tigre1 il lecheroit une si belle main4#cf ,i called on the ,prefet1 who received me with much politeness2 and1 when ,i announced my intention of settling at ,avignon1 felicitated the city on the acquisition it was about to make4 ,it is regulated that no one shall be prefect of a department of which he is a native1 or to which his family belongs4 ,this rule proceeds on the principle1 recognised amongst us by the circuits of the twelve judges1 which supposes that justice will be more impartially administered by strangers than by those who may be liable to the influence of local connexions4 ,the prefect of ,vaucluse was of the department of the ,rhone1 and member of the chamber of ,deputies for that department4 ,i called on the ,mayor1 and was much surprised to find1 invested with that office1 not a man resembling an ,english alderman or a good bourgeois1 but a meagre1 old noble1 adorned with the croix de ,st4 ,louis1 and with the manners of his caste4 ,in the ,american war he had been captain of a ship of the line2 he had emigrated1 and been despoiled of his property during the revolution2 had passed three years of his emigration in ,london1 where he had learned to admire tea and tost4 ,on his return1 he had married a rich wife who had just left him a widower2 he showed me the weepers on his coat sleeves as an excuse for not returning my visit4 ,he had recovered some of the wrecks of his fortune1 and had repurchased his house2 part of which had been pulled down by him who had bought it as national property1 that1 when compelled to restitution1 as was expected1 on the return of the king1 he might secure at least the price of the materials4 ,m4 le ,maire had built a house for himself on the ruins of the part pulled down3 of the part left standing he had already made a detached house1 which he offered to me4 ,i promised to look at it4 ,and now began my search for a house1 which ,i conducted according to my ,english notions and prepossessions4 ,in the south of ,france1 or in ,italy1 a man of twenty thousand francs a year lives in a larger house than a man of an income of as many pounds sterling inhabits in ,london4 ,in ,england1 a nine months winter1 an enormous tax on windows1 a duty on bricks1 timber1 and glass1 reduce us to content ourselves with small houses2 but in these countries1 large rooms1 lofty ceilings1 wide staircases1 are required by the climate1 and by no means astonish the minds of those who are used to them4 ,things on this scale of vastness ,i had frequently seen in ,england1 particularly in country-houses1 but had not been1 as yet1 familiarized with them4 ,i visited an hotel in which ,charles ,,iv4 of ,spain had been lodged on his journey from ,paris to ,rome1 after his abdication at ,bayonne4 ,i was desired1 by the man of affairs1 to determine what apartments ,i should want1 and then the rent might be fixed4 ,the house was an agreeable one1 but appeared in too grand a style for me3 ,i told the man of business it might do very well for a prince1 or1 par occasion1 for a king of ,spain1 and declined all further treaty4 ,i have no doubt1 ,i might have been as cheaply lodged here as ,i was in the house ,i afterwards rented4 ,there occurred besides another ,english prejudice3 ,i was to have but a part of the house3 who might they be who should inhabit the other part8 ,an ,englishman likes to have his house to himself2 it is his castle3 a privilege1 by the by1 which the present chancellor of the exchequer has restored to him1 by taking off the tax on internal windows4 ,another apartment ,i visited2 but here the proprietor1 who lived on the rez-de-chaussee1 or ground floor1 had1 as well as myself1 a family of young children3 besides1 he refused me the privilege of walking in his garden4 ,from this refusal1 and from the intercourse of the children1 ,i anticipated future misunderstandings4 ,the use of a garden in this climate is1 that1 in the shade1 or after sunset1 it serves as an additional room1 loftier than any in the house4 ,in winter1 a town garden1 surrounded by high walls1 or houses1 is absolutely useless4 ,at length ,i took the house of ,m4 le ,maire4 ,it consisted of a vestibule1 a small dining-room1 servants hall1 kitchen1 and offices3 on the first floor was a salon1 twenty-four feet square2 on one side of this salon was a space partitioned off1 about six feet wide3 at half the height of this room1 a floor had been laid1 and thus two cabinets were procured3 there was a second salon twenty-one feet by fifteen2 there were three chambers with two cabinets1 three servants rooms1 and on the second floor two chambers for my sons4 ,i had besides a small stable1 and coach-house for a cabriolet1 but no garden4 ,the house was built on three sides of a small court4 ,my lease was for four years1 at a thousand francs a year1 determinable by me at the end of each year on two months notice1 determinable also on payment of a quarter's rent in case of war1 or any event of a public nature that might affect my personal security4 ,this last clause ,i copied from a lease ,i had seen at ,paris2 a prudent1 and1 at that time1 no one could say1 a superfluous caution4 ,i paid no taxes4 ,this house ,i furnished1 as one furnishes a house which he is to quit in three or four years4 ,it was curious to observe how1 from want of money or of confidence1 some of the tradesmen followed their goods to my house1 and required payment on delivery4 ,i had even a sort of run upon me one morning1 performed by some one who had not taken the above-mentioned precaution4 ,the run was probably caused by some silly report4 ,i have known a run on a country bank to originate with a farmer's declaration that such run existed2 the question then being only who should run fastest4 ,i dissipated the alarm by giving1 with great tranquillity1 bons on my banker3 yet some tradesmen were careful to give a receipt1 not for the amount of the bill1 but for the bon3 this1 indeed1 ,i suggested4 ,seven years later1 ,i have found the merchants of a provincial town1 in which ,i am utterly unknown1 ready to give me credit for my orders without the least symptom of suspicion or anxiety4 ,in seven years ,i believe the wealth of ,france to have increased by one half2 in seven years1 the funds have risen from sixty-five to ninety-five3 money might have been invested in land1 seven years ago1 at four and a half per cent2 now1 not more than three1 or three and a half1 can be obtained3 but ,i am going beyond the limits of my four years residence4 ,,footnotes3 #ce ,my wife has a great deal of sensibility4 #cf ,no1 ,miss1 my dog will not bite you2 if he were a tiger1 he would lick such a beautiful hand4 ,,chap4 ,,ix4 ,avignon is surrounded by walls1 as are most of the cities of ,france1 and of the countries of the continent3 a very great evil and inconvenience4 ,these walls hinder the influx of fresh air from the country1 and thus make the cities more unhealthy2 give to those who want to enter or go out of the town the trouble of going first to a gate2 and crowd and embarrass the inlets and outlets1 by diminishing their number4 ,indeed1 after sunset1 this number1 in order to save porters1 is reduced to two2 the two principal gates only1 at opposite sides of the town1 being attended by their guardians to watch and ward during the night4 ,often have ,i been obliged1 at ,avignon and at ,florence1 to shorten my evening walk1 for the sake of arriving at the nearest gate before the ,ave ,maria of the evening4 ,if ,i still continued without the walls1 ,i was obliged to perform a circuit1 first along a dusty road to a distant gate2 and then1 accompanied1 it may be1 by the females of my family1 through the main street to my own habitation1 more distant from this gate than from that by which ,i had gone out4 ,all this mischief1 all this restraint1 is endured1 because1 instead of a tax on the houses in which food is consumed1 a duty is levied1 at the gates1 on the food itself2 a duty1 partial1 because not paid by the inhabitants of the country2 vexatious1 because descending to so many and so minute objects2 and expensive in its collection1 because requiring perpetual superintendence4 ,it is to be hoped the ,chamber of ,deputies of ,france will take some lessons1 on the art of taxing1 from the ,house of ,commons1 by whom that art has been so long and so successfully practised4 ,part of these tolls defray municipal expenses4 ,the walls of ,avignon are about three miles in circumference4 ,a good road1 bordered by trees1 goes round the town2 and1 on the western side1 is a public walk near the ,rhone4 ,the river is here divided into two branches by a long1 narrow island3 over each branch is carried a bridge on wooden piers1 with a causeway across the island1 uniting the two bridges into one road from bank to bank4 ,the tolls1 on this bridge1 are let1 by the city1 at about fifty thousand francs a year2 a large sum1 and indicating an active intercourse in the direction of ,bordeaux and ,toulouse4 ,there is a barrier at each end of the bridge1 and the passengers pay on setting foot upon it1 but go off from it scot-free4 ,why there are two receivers of one toll ,i know not1 except that one may be a check on the other2 but1 as every receiver is as bad as a thief1 this expedient amounts only to setting a thief to watch a thief4 ,that in the twelfth century1--an age of ,cimmerian darkness1 according to the ,protestants1--a poor shepherd should have conceived the project of building a bridge over the ,rhone2 that he should have been prompted to this undertaking by motives of ,christian charity1 on observing how many were drowned in attempting the passage by boats2 that he should have devoted his life to the collection of alms for his purpose2--all this might procure for ,st4 ,benezet more favour than he will ever meet with in our dis-enlightened country4 ,i leave it to my reader to judge of my reasons for not saying un-enlightened4 ,the mischief is1 they made the poor man a saint1 instead of knighting him1 like ,sir ,richard ,arkwright4 ,a punster might have entitled him ,pontifex ,maximus2 but this would have been still worse for his reputation4 ,the ,reverend ,alban ,butler1 in his learned1 discreet1 and pious work1 ,the ,lives of the ,saints1 relates1 that the building of this bridge was attended by many miracles4 ,part of these may have been contrived to encourage those to the enterprise who would not have been moved by the single consideration of its utility2 as the liberation of the ,holy ,sepulchre1 and ,deus vult1 roused those who would never have made a common effort to defend ,christendom against the ,saracen4 ,in part also1 these miracles may have been real1 notwithstanding the bold assertion that miracles have ceased4 ,this assertion may be easily made1 while every fact proving the contrary is rejected with supercilious incredulity2 but it is an assertion in its own nature incapable of proof3 the denial of the possibility of miracles would be inconsequent in the mouths of those who1 by affirming them to have ceased1 admit them to have existed4 ,these men are not ,deo a secretis4 ,butler tells us also that1 on occasion of part of the bridge falling down by the impetuosity of the waters1 in #affi1 nearly five hundred years after the death of ,st4 ,benezet1 his body1 which had been buried in a little chapel on the bridge1 was taken up1 and found entire1 without the least sign of corruption3 even the bowels were sound1 and the colour of the eyes lively and sprightly1 though the bars of iron around the coffin were much corroded by rust1 on account of the dampness of the situation4 ,butler did not know that animal muscle is changed by moisture into a substance resembling spermaceti1 as proved by the experiments of ,lavoisier1 and ,sir ,george ,gibbes4 ,the substance is called by the ,french chymists adipocire4 ,the philosopher will1 ,i hope1 allow his obligation to me for having attempted to account for one miracle in a natural manner4 ,let him say1 ,the man is reasonable1 quand meme4#cg ,the remains of the bridge of ,st4 ,benezet still bestride the eastern branch of the ,rhone1 and are an object of great picturesque beauty4 ,the arches are very lofty3 under the first of them1 the great public road is now carried2 a circumstance which seems to show that the river has formed for itself a narrower1 it may be1 a deeper bed4 ,inundations however are not unfrequent1 particularly in the beginning of summer1 on the melting of the snows of the ,alps2 and ,i am told at this time1 ,december #ahbe1 that there has lately been five feet depth of water in the town of ,avignon4 ,i have seen the water wash the walls of the city4 ,the ,rock1 as it is called1 of ,avignon1 has every appearance of having been separated by the ,rhone from the hills on the other side of the river4 ,how or when this separation was effected1 is a question that might puzzle a writer of theories on the formation of the earth4 ,if we can believe1 what philosophers would readily enough believe were not the fact asserted in the ,bible1--that the earth was at one time covered with water1 even the tops of the mountains1--and if we can suppose also that currents existed in this deluge2--then1 on the subsiding of the waters1 these currents might meet with the summits and ridges of hills1 and work and wear for themselves a passage1 the waters of the deluge gradually retiring1 but1 in the mean time1 sustaining the currents at the requisite height4 ,but humility in ,scriptural interpretation is recommended by the remark1 that the very first word of ,scripture1 ,in the beginning1 is incomprehensible and inexplicable4 ,on the southern slope of this rock is built the ,palace of the ,popes2 as its roof is continued in one horizontal line1 the height of the building at the southern extremity is enormous3 its principal front is towards the west1 overlooking a part of the city and the hills of ,languedoc3 it is now in a ruined and neglected state1 as far as a building can be so which is still in use3 part of it serves for a prison3 another part is a caserne1 of which the pope's chapel is the dormitory4 ,close upon the northern end of the palace is the cathedral2 a church which1 at the beginning of the revolution1 was plundered of an immense quantity of silver and some gold plate1 which was sent off to the national crucible at ,paris2 amongst other treasures was a silver bell of no very diminutive size4 ,the tombs even were ransacked2 a skull was brought to my house by my children's drawing-master1 from which my younger son designed an admirable and edifying death's head4 ,the model1 ,i was assured1 had been the cranium of a pope4 ,they were beginning to repair this church1 with the purpose of restoring it to its former destination4 ,on one side of it is a little chapel with a dome1 which served as the model for the dome of ,ste4 ,genevieve4 ,the copy is sufficiently exact4 ,behind the palace1 on the east1 rises a tower1 which1 from having been used as an ice-house1 was called the glaciere2 and the glaciere of ,avignon is a name ever memorable in the annals of horror4 ,from the top of this tower five hundred1 according to those who exaggerate2 thirty1 according to those who extenuate1--of the principal inhabitants of the city1 after receiving a stunning blow on the head1 were thrown down on the ice within1 and their bodies immediately covered with quick lime4 ,such was the vengeance of the people on those who1 without trial1 from the notoriety of the fact1 were convicted of the crime of aristocracy4 ,the ,revolution had been quietly accomplished3 the people declared that it was their will to unite themselves to ,france2 sent a deputation to the national assembly2 and cried ,vive le ,roi4 ,the vice-legate1 who governed the city for the pope1 addressed the people from his balcony2 told them he had no force to oppose this their movement1 that they had his prayers for their happiness1 and that he would retire4 ,this was all on his part4 ,the national assembly accorded to the ,avignonais their wish2 and formed of this papal territory and that of ,orange1 7formerly a patrimony of the princes of that house17 the department of ,vaucluse4 ,the summit of the rock commands a very beautiful view4 ,the eye traverses a fertile plain1 bounded by the hills of the ,venaissin1 among which are distinguished those of the vallis clausa1 where the far-famed fountain has its source3 between the trees are caught glimpses of the ,durance1 which throws itself into the ,rhone two miles below2 almost under your feet1 are seen the windings of the ,rhone with its islands3 on the opposite bank rises the chateau and little town of ,villeneuve1 surmounted by hills covered with the vine and the olive3 immediately beneath1 to the south1 and west1 lies ,avignon1 with its population of five and twenty thousand souls1 which number still remained to it after massacres1 confiscations1 and proscriptions4 ,by these revolutionary measures1 it had suffered more perhaps than any other city in ,france except ,lyons1 the ville affranchie of the ,convention4 ,how would you have us be gay8 said a noble to me3 we see every day1 we live in the midst of the assassins of our relations1 and the possessors of our property4 ,virgil describes his ,jove as viewing1 from ,olympus' height1 the earth1 hominumque labores3 the rock of ,avignon is but one of many elevated spots from which we look down on the bounty of ,providence and on the misery of man4 ,the city contains a great many handsome hotels or family houses1 but is not generally well-built2 the streets1 all but one1--the ,rue ,calade1--are narrow3 the pavement is of small sharp-pointed pebbles4 ,here is a public library1 formed out of the libraries of the suppressed convents2 a ,museum1 in which1 among other objects1 a valuable collection of coins deserves particular mention1 as containing some very rare specimens of the coins of the ,greek cities anciently founded in this part of ,france4 ,there is also annexed to the ,museum a small botanical garden4 ,here is a good infirmary or hospital for the sick4 ,a large convent has been turned into a succursal or subsidiary house to the invalids at ,paris1 insufficient to receive the increased number of disabled soldiers4 ,the seven parishes of ,avignon have been revolutionized into four1 with churches not large enough for the congregations4 ,i entered a fine ,pantheon-like building1 and found it to be a church1 with vast ,ionic columns supporting large galleries2 the whole capable of containing two thousand people3 it was used as a manufactory of saltpetre4 ,the ,jesuits' college is become a college royal3 thus it retains its destination as a place of instruction2 but its handsome church has been spoiled by laying a floor across it at mid-height3 for this there was no reason1 but that an administrator thought1 as my informant said1 that it was a clever thing to cheat the ,almighty of a church1 escamoter une eglise au bon ,dieu4 ,the walls of the town are particularly well-built and handsome1 if walls can ever be handsome3 they are of the same sort of stone as the palace1 and it is said that each contains precisely the same quantity of stone4 ,they both date from the fourteenth century1 when the popes sat1 as the phrase is1 at ,avignon4 ,,footnotes3 #cg ,notwithstanding4 ,,chap4 ,x4 ,thirty ,english families1 it was calculated1 were settled1 before the ,revolution1 in ,avignon and its territory4 ,the grandson of ,james ,,ii4 had lived here for some time4 ,i used to enter1 with some little feeling of ,jacobitical enthusiasm1 the house of the ,marquise ,d4 which he had inhabited4 ,the ,pretender was accompanied by some who thought his pretensions well-founded3 others were attracted by the sort of court1 held here by the vice legate1 and by the attentions which it was then the usage of the court of ,rome to pay to foreigners1 particularly to the ,english4 ,it was convenient also that a war between ,england and ,france did not affect a subject of the former country at ,avignon4 ,the intercourse betwixt this city and ,italy had caused more attention to be paid to literature and the fine arts than is usual in provincial towns3 that these flourished here1 the names of ,vernet1 ,flechier1 ,poole1 and others bear honourable testimony4 ,avignon was now become ,french1 and as such1 on a par with other ,french towns4 ,i chose it as a place in which to live for a few years1 and superintend the education of my children3 it was in my way to ,italy1 my ulterior object4 ,i determined on the south of ,france on account of the health of ,mrs4 ----1 who1 though subject to violent coughs1 which had more than once threatened her life1 has not suffered from them since we have been to the southward of ,lyons4 ,but the wounds inflicted by the ,revolution1 and during the reign of terror1 were hardly stanched2 the recollection of the evils they had endured was still recent1--still afflicted the spirits of those who formed the first class of society at ,avignon4 ,i have already mentioned the feeling with which one of them expressed himself on this subject4 ,the most fortunate amongst them1--at least he told me he so considered himself1--was the ,marquis ----1 who1 after being obliged to fly and absent himself for fifteen years1 recovered his estate with the loss only of the rents during those years4 ,almost every lady1 at that time old enough to have been an object of persecution1 had been put in prison1 and there1 with her companions1 had discussed the question whether the guillotine was an easy mode of death4 ,one of them said to me1 ,you see us tristes2 but sometimes we forget ourselves1 and then le caractere national perce4#ch ,in #agie1 almost every large house in ,avignon bore on its walls a notice1--,propriete nationale a vendre2#ci and even houses not confiscated1 as well as other property1 were sold to relieve the immediate distress of their owners4 ,a house1 which ,i considered as the best in the town1 which had been but lately built at an expense of two hundred thousand francs1 was sold for thirty thousand to the father of my banker3 its noble proprietor gave as a reason for acceding to so disproportionate a bargain1 that his wife and daughter had nothing to eat4 ,great wealth was a crime as well as royalism or nobility4 ,two persons1 in authority at ,avignon during the reign of terror1 were making out a list of emigrants3 a third was present1 who1 having nothing else to do1 was holding the candle to the two municipal revolutionists4 ,shall we set him down in the list8 whispered one of them to the other1 meaning the third1 the candle-holder4--,ce seroit un peu trop fort1 puisqu'il est present4#dj--,qu' importe8 il n'osera pas reclamer1 et il est riche4#da ,danton1 who by the by1 was minister of justice1 said ,la revolution est une mine qu'il faut exploiter4#db ,a revolutionary tribunal held its permanent sitting at ,orange1 and every day carts full of victims were sent off thither from ,avignon4 ,my friend the ,marquise ---- was then a child of six years old2 a plan was laid to take her in the cart and throw her into the ,rhone by the way3 she could not be convicted of incivisme1 but she was an heiress4 ,the plot was defeated by her bonne or nurse-maid1 who took care that the child should be out of the way at the time of the departure of the cart4 ,the trials at ,orange were the pleasantest scenes imaginable4 ,tu n'es pas royaliste8 ,tu n' as pas conspire contre l'etat8#dc or some such questions1 in an ironical tone1 decided the fate of the prisoner4 ,voila des hommes qui tranchent sur tout1#dd said ,i to my narrator4 ,he forgave the pun4 ,an elderly woman1--her understanding childish through age1 and who was deaf withal1--was put in accusation with her son4 ,tu as pleure la mort du roi1#de said the judges to the mother1 charging her also with having put on mourning on the occasion4 ,o yes1 said the old woman1 ,i was very sorry for the king1 poor1 dear1 good man2 and ,i put on a black silk apron and a black ribbon round my cap4 ,the judges1 seeing the people inclined by this simplicity to a sentiment of compassion1 advanced to something more serious4 ,tu as conspire contre l'etat4#df ,here the son put himself forward3 ,messieurs1 do what you will with me2 but my mother--you see her imbecillity2 she is deaf3 how can she have conspired against the state8 ,elle est sourde8 said the judge3 ecris1 greffier1 qu'elle a conspire sourdement contre l'etat4#dg ,this pun is not to be forgiven4 ,arrived at the place of execution1 the mother1 seeing the assembled crowd1 asked her son the meaning of it2 whether it was a fair1 or some fete4 ,he obtained as a favour from the executioner1 that his mother might be the first to suffer death4 ,a noble had a conversation with a man who1 though known as one of the chief assassins of that aera1 lived quietly at ,avignon4 ,i should imagine that1 since you have failed of your purpose1 you must feel some regret at having uselessly shed so much blood4--,au contraire1 our regret is that we did not shed more3 mais ce sera pour une autre fois4#dh ,in expectation of this autre fois1 some of the few nobles to whom any wealth was left were making up a purse in readiness for a second emigration3--let it be remembered this was in the year #ahah4 ,others of them lived economically1 indifferent as to the consideration in which they might be held after so many mortifications2 or disgusted with the law of equal partition of inheritance1 which reduced all their children to mediocrity of wealth1--an evil they wished to remedy by their savings4 ,i recollect1 in passing1 that ,i was well acquainted with a noble1 an aristocrat1 who detested every act of the constituent assembly1 but thought this law of partage perfectly just and reasonable3 he was a younger brother4 ,from all that has preceded1 it will be inferred that the public mind at ,avignon was not in a state to abandon itself unreservedly to the pleasures of society4 ,yet fetes were occasionally given2 balls1 with1 now and then1 a petit souper1 were not uncommon during carnival2 and every evening might be passed in company1 in the salon of some lady who had taken her day of the week for receiving4 ,at these parties cards were supplied1 but paid for by those who used them1 at a price which1 though moderate1 covered the expense both of cards and wax candles4 ,this practice1 pretty well established in ,england1 was defended by the example of the court1 where it is permitted4 ,we could not do better than follow the practice of the court4 ,ordinarily no refreshments were given3 one conscientious lady1 however1 told her friends that her surplus card-money enabled her to treat them with ices and petits gateaux4 ,no invitation was sent after the first notice1 which was considered as good so long as the weekly reception should continue4 ,besides these reunions1 to which all the acquaintance of the mistress of the house were of course admitted1 there were sometimes parties by invitation1 when the refreshments were sufficient and decorous4 ,i endeavoured to set the fashion of tea1 and gave a the1 as much in conformity1 as to the mode of it1 with the notions of the country1 as my imagination could make it out4 ,a large table1 covered with a cloth as at dinner time1 bore upon it not only the tea equipage1 with its usual accompaniments of tartines and toast1 but also fruits1 and cakes1 and an immense round flat tart1 showing preserve through a gridiron of pastry1 with wine and syrups for those whom tea would deprive of sleep4 ,the ,marquise ---- followed my example1 and gave a the1 of which she condescended to ask my opinion3 ,i told her1 that in order that the tea should be good1 it was indispensable that the water should be not only hot1 but boiling2 excusing at the same time the boldness of my counsel1 on the ground that it was not obtruded1 but demanded4 ,she tried again1 and succeeded to admiration4 ,tea is now in pretty general use at evening parties in the north of ,france4 ,while my elder children even were yet too young to bear their part in soirees1 ,i contented myself with entertaining1 now and then1 a few ,messieurs at dinner1 after consulting a friend on the enterprise1 with a declaration that ,i could not invite ladies1 as their taste would require more research and delicacy of preparation than ,i could hope to arrive at4 ,he admitted the difficulty would be lessened by this restriction however ungallant1 and proceeded to tell me1 that a dinner invariably begins by soup and bouilli3 as this latter however must be insipid if the the soup is good1 it is well to accompany it by a sausage1 or some high-tasted meat3 then come the entremets1 then the roti with its salad3 after which1 said he1 tout naturellement on fait monter le poisson4#di ,nothing could appear to me more unnatural than fish after meat2 but ,i was in such a complaisant disposition1 that ,i agreed to every thing4 ,the douceurs terminate the repast1 succeeded by the dessert4 ,so many ,english travel in ,france1 and so many write their travels1 that these matters are well known3 the repetition may be endured as a part of a family history2 ,i speak of them with a due sense of their importance3 ----------qualia vincant ,pythagoram1 ,anytique reum1 doctumque ,platona4 ,having discovered what might be considered as a good ,french dinner1 en province1 ,i set to work1 not neglecting the improvements suggested by an ,english education1 by no means so useless1 on this head1 as the ,french imagine4 ,it will be seen1 that the arbitrary parts of a ,french dinner are the made dishes and the sweets3 the bouilli and roti are obligatory2 the former because you are hungry1 the latter1 lest you should still be so4 ,i approve of the order in which the fish appears1 having seen many persons choke themselves in ,england by eating of it with an appetite as yet unsatiated4 ,even to the fried fish ,i ventured1 contrary to usage1 to add a sauce1 7in a sauce-boat be it well understood17 which those who partook of it admitted to be an improvement4 ,a stuffed turkey1 with sausage balls1 was allowed to be better than a dry roti3 a hare1 with a pudding and currant jelly1 was declared to be delicious4 ,i obtained permission to serve the cheese1 as a thing of mauvaise odeur1 by itself1 recalling only the salad1 instead of making it a part of the dessert4 ,by these means1 and by the help of stuffed loins of mutton1 roasted tongues1 or boiled1 with but little flavour of salt1 new college puddings1 and other unknown luxuries too tedious to mention1 7a phrase ,i ought to have employed long ago17 ,i have the patriotic consolation of thinking that ,i gave a favourable idea of the ,english kitchen1 which1 in defiance of popular opinion1 ,i affirm to be better than the ,french1 though their artists in this line are superior4 ,the chief differences are1 that the ,french make prepared and high-seasoned dishes of their vegetables1 and think it barbarous to eat them1 au naturel1 along with their meat2 and that they will not believe that their meat contains any juice1 or gravy1 or flavour1 till they have extracted it by culinary process1 and laid it beside the meat in the dish4 ,indeed their climate1 which provides for them so many excellent things1 refuses them pasture to fatten beef2 but they have fine artificial grasses and hay3 of every other object of gourmandise1 except fat beef1 they have all that the most voracious1 or the most delicate appetite can demand4 ,an invitation to dinner is always taken au pied de la lettre2 it never trenches on the evening parties2--all retire immediately after coffee4 ,nothing can be more easy than the entrance into society in a provincial town in ,france3 you have only to send billets of invitation1 taking care first to make a general visit to all whom you invite2 which visit is returned by those who mean to accept that or any future invitation4 ,in the second winter of my residence1 we took an evening for weekly reception1 beginning by an invitation to a ball4 ,dancing was1 for this time1 prevented by the arrival of the news of the death of ,king ,george ,,iii4 ,on occasion of another ball1 ,i observed that those who1 from whatever reason1 had been prevented from assisting at the ball1 took particular care to present themselves at the following weekly soiree1 when1 as on other soirees1 no refreshments were given1 as we thought it right to conform to the usage of the place4 ,indeed this mode of visiting has its advantages3 the visited is thus the obliged party2 insomuch that those1 who themselves do not receive1 make no scruple of repeating their visits4 ,those who do thus receive1 expect of course to be visited in their turn4 ,it is perhaps in consequence of this mode of receiving1 that the custom is established1 that the newly-arrived shall make the first call4 ,however agreeable it might be to a stranger to be invited to cards and conversation only1 the inhabitants of a town cannot know that it would be agreeable1 till they are1 by implication1 told so4 ,one exception to the rule confirms my opinion of its origin4 ,the ,duc--1 who1 in my first winter1 gave a ball every week1 called on me to invite my family4 ,the rule was1 nevertheless1 so far observed1 that the ,duchesse did not call till after we had accepted the invitation4 ,the practice1 from whatever it may arise1 is very embarrassing to the mauvaise honte of an ,englishman3 this may easily be surmounted1 when it is perceived that the first visit is always considered as a polite attention4 ,but the only serious social embarrassment ,i experienced1 arose from my imperfect use of the language3 ,i had learned ,french when a boy2 when ,i left ,england ,i had long read it1 almost as easily as ,english2 arrived in ,france1 ,i found ,i had two studies to perform1 two difficulties to encounter2 to make myself understood1 and to understand3 the first ,i could do indifferently well2 but ,i passed a twelvemonth in ,france before ,i could understand what was said by the men1 and two years before ,i could understand what was said by the ladies4 ,i found that not to understand was more disadvantageous than not to be understood2 since those who endured my bad ,french with patience were1 very naturally1 displeased on discovering that they had been throwing away their words on one who could not fully comprehend their meaning4 ,i seriously advise every ,englishman who purposes to establish his family for some years in ,france1 if he is not competent to follow a conversation in the language of that country1 to go thither first himself alone1 and establish himself for a few months in ,french society3 he will thus make more progress in a month1 than afterwards1 with his family1 in a year3 for the frequent use of an old language indisposes the organs of speech to the acquisition of a new one4 ,the ears too require their lesson4 ,i will also repeat the counsel given to me by a friend1 a detenu1 whose son1 at the age of seventeen1 spoke ,english like a foreigner2 it was1 constantly to talk ,english in the family4 ,notwithstanding my exact compliance with this advice1 my youngest child1 from having learned three languages before entering her tenth year1 speaks ,english less perfectly than the others3 she left ,england when but three years old1 and1 a year after1 said1 somewhat boastingly1 ,j'ai oublie mon ,anglois4 ,in truth1 seven or eight years absence has produced in all the family some little forgetfulness of our native tongue2 nay1 ,i fear that my reader may find some ,gallicisms in the writing of one1 who did not quit his native land till far advanced in the fiftieth year of his age4 ,no parent will be content that his children should forget their native language3 whether it may be necessary1 in order to avoid this inconvenience1 to enjoin the use of it within the family1 will depend on circumstances1 on the age of the children1 on the length of the intended stay or residence abroad4 ,the means will1 so far forth1 hinder and delay the attainment of the language of the country1 without which both improvement and amusement are utterly hopeless1 as social intercourse is impossible4 ,the ,french are not the less impatient of bad ,french1 on account of the imperturbable politeness with which they hear it4 ,,footnotes3 #ch ,the national character pierces through4 #ci ,national property to be sold4 #dj ,that would be a little too bad since he is here present4 #da ,what does it signify8 he will not dare to appeal1 and he is rich4 #db ,the revolution is a mine that must be worked4 #dc ,thou art not a royalist8 ,thou hast not conspired against the state8 #dd ,see the men who cut through every thing4 #de ,thou hast wept for the death of the king4 #df ,thou hast conspired against the state4 #dg ,she is deaf8--write1 clerk1 that she has conspired in a secret way against the state4 #dh ,but that will be for another time4 #di ,the fish is served quite naturally4 ,,chap4 ,,xi4 ,i found a very good drawing-master at ,avignon1 an eleve of ,david1 one who had studied in ,italy1 an intelligent man2 his conversation pleased and instructed me4 ,i had much difficulty to meet with a master of the ,french language3 no one here wanted to learn ,french2 they were contented with such as they talked3 there was no demand for institutors in this branch of education4 ,at last ,i found a professor of the royal college1 an ingenious man1 but utterly unpractised in the art of teaching ,french1 which he might suppose came by nature2 and being besides unacquainted with ,english1 he was unable to explain to his scholars of my family1 any rules of grammar1 whether general or particular4 ,that ,i may dismiss him with honour in this my mention of him1 ,i will recite an epigram of his composition at the beginning of the ,revolution3 ,o liberte cherie6 en vain je te poursuis3 ,par tout je vois ton arbre1 et nulle part tes fruits4#ej ,of dancing-masters and music-masters ,i need not speak2 their art is at the end of their fingers or of their toes4 ,i had some trouble in managing the temper of the professor of the first of these arts1 who was a ,gascon2 and the natural pride of the professor of music1 who was a noble3 but1 by the help of some tact united with good-will1 ,i obtained my end1 which was1 that they should depart contented4 ,the climate did not permit dancing lessons to be taken1 except in the winter4 ,i do not advise any one1 habituated to the climate of ,england1 and in good health1 to come abroad for the sake of climate4 ,charles ,,ii4 was certainly right when he said1 one may in ,england be out of doors more days in the year1 and more hours in the day1 than in any other country4 ,i quoted this saying to a friend1 who replied1 ,mais c'est toujours en souffrant2#ea and1 being accustomed to heat1 he reckoned all suffering from that cause as nothing3 he had been in ,england1 and recollected how his nose was bitten1 and his fingers benumbed by the frost4 ,a friend at ,avignon called on me in the middle of the day1 having crept along the shady side of the streets4 ,it is there the custom in summer to keep the windows shut during the heat of the day4 ,i complained to my visitant of this practice1 as depriving one of air when gasping for it4 ,mais que voulez-vous8 l'air est en feu4#eb ,i put the thermometer out at a north window1 and it rose two degrees4 ,during the greatest heat of the hot summer of #ahbj1 ,i observed the thermometer pretty regularly at midnight1 and found it to stand at #hj ,fahrenheit4 ,one may rise early1 and enjoy the coolness of the morning3 true2 but for this end it is necessary to go to bed early1 and be deprived of the coolness of the evening4 ,i knew1 however1 one man who had the good-sense and resolution to dispose of his day during summer in the following manner3 he went to bed at midnight1 rose at four in the morning1 took his exercise1 transacted his affairs1 eat his dejeune a la fourchette1 as may be supposed1 with a good appetite1 and went to bed again at mid-day3 at four p4 m4 he rose again1 made his toilette1 eat his dinner1 and went into society1 till the end of the second of the two days which he thus contrived to form out of twenty-four hours4 ,i have been told that such is the practice of the ,english in the ,east ,indies4 ,the plague of bugs may be avoided by care and cleanliness3 the defence against gnats is a gause net surrounding the bed2 but wo be to those who find one or more gnats enclosed within the net itself1 as happens not unfrequently from the carelessness of the femme de chambre3 the hum of the insect1 and the dread of his attack1 deprive you of sleep3 there is no remedy but to wait till he settles upon the face2 and then1 while he is busy with his first bite1 with an expectant and prepared hand to crush him4 ,flies are also very troublesome in these envied regions of the south2 but flies are not like those ,cassiuses1 the gnats2--they sleep o'nights4 ,the bise or north wind1 coming from the frozen ,alps1 following the course of the ,rhone1 and spreading wide to right and left1 is very delightful and refreshing during the summer at ,avignon3 but1 in the winter1 it penetrates even to the marrow of the bones1 and sometimes1 for several days together1 blows with such violence1 that people are afraid to walk the streets1 lest they should be knocked on the head by falling tiles or chimneys4 ,this bise is supposed to render the climate healthy3 the ,avignonais have a proverb3--,avenio ventosa2 si ventosa1 fastidiosa2 si non ventosa1 venenosa4 ,how far it is venenosa1 ,i have but too much reason to know4 ,the ,rhone is sometimes frozen over at ,avignon3 ,i have seen people walk across it on the ice4 ,the cold during part of the winter is sometimes greater than that of ,paris2 and ,i have seen the cold of the hyver moyen#ec of ,paris marked1 on a ,french thermometer1 as two degrees of ,reaumur lower1 that is stronger1 than the cold of the hyver moyen of ,london4 ,all the world knows that in summer it is much hotter at ,paris than at ,london3 the vine bears witness to it2 but both heat and cold are tempered to ,england by passing over the sea4 ,to sum up all that ,i have to say at present on the subject of climate1 ,i believe lat4 #de1 half way between the pole and the equator1 to be1 all other circumstances being equal1 the best of the climes that are mortalibus aegris ,munere concessae ,divom4 ,habit reconciles both to cold and heat4 ,one consideration may not be unimportant to families that wish to economize3 cold is costly4 ,returning into ,france from ,italy1 ,i find the difference between the rent of a house in ,naples and that of a house in a country town1 to be filled up by the expense of firing2 and1 at the beginning of my first winter1 am almost ruined in manteaus1 great coats1 pelisses1 blankets1 and other flannels4 ,a country town in ,france is better supplied with society than a country town in ,england1 inasmuch as the ,french country gentry do not disdain to live in a country town4 ,all of them have an hotel1 an apartment1 or at least a pied a terre1 as they called it1 in the largest country town in their neighbourhood1 and resort thither during the winter4 ,from the time of the wheat harvest1 which in the south is towards the end of ,june1 till the time for planting is ended1 they not only live1 but are very busy in the country4 ,the practice of letting land for the half of the produce compels them to be on the spot to take charge of their own share3 but1 in bad weather1 and during the long evenings1 they seek shelter in the town4 ,here the members of the ancient noblesse1 now without fortune1 without privilege1 still viewed by the many with sentiments of political dislike1--maintain their superiority over men1 their equals in moral honesty1 more wealthy and better instructed than themselves4 ,and how do they maintain it8 ,by manners4 ,it is admirable to see with what grace and ease1 without arrogating any thing to themselves or derogating from others1 without art or design1--they assert their dignity1 and contrive that it be recognised by those with whom they have to do4 ,some of those who have not the advantage1 if such it may be called1 of noble birth1 endeavour to imitate1 while others affect to despise1 these manners1 which throw such a charm over society2 but it is impossible to despise1 and very difficult to imitate them3 they seem to result from an early1 an almost perpetual consciousness of self-importance1 corrected by a constant intercourse with others entitled to equal respect and deference4 ,the manners of military men1 more frank1 and open1 and manly than those of the noblesse1 want the polish attained by the latter3 for military men1 while they derive confidence from the glory of their profession1 are chiefly conversant with those whom they command or obey4 ,the depot of good manners is to be found with the nobles of ancient families1 said one of them to me4 ,before the revolution there were in ,france twenty-seven thousand families of the noblesse4 ,by the charte the nobles of imperial creation preserve their titles1 the ancient nobles resume theirs4 ,of titles1 however1 very little use is made in conversation2 the little particle de answers all demands of noble self-love2 and even a ,duc or ,duchesse is contented to be addressed1 in familiar parlance1 as ,monsieur de ---- or ,madame de ----4 ,this little particle de multiplies itself with astonishing rapidity1 like the ,english addition ,esq42 and the act by which it is assumed is no more contested in ,france1 than that which1 with us1 niches a man of merit between knight and gentleman4 ,three or four de were brought into the world at ,avignon1 during my stay there4 ,what shows the practice of unauthorised assumption of the de to be by no means so novel as its censurers pretended1 is1 that ,i found the de sometimes to precede names which signified trades3 of these there are many in all countries2 whereas the de ought only to indicate the terre1 or estate1 like the d',igby of my maternal ancestors1 and can with propriety be used for no other purpose4 ,but the ambition of nominal distinction was not always thus cheaply to be gratified1 if ,i may believe the feeling lament of an old noble1 that is a noble of old family1 ,such an one fancies1 some fine morning1 that he is a count or marquis3 he calls himself so3 the world laughs4--,but the title passes current8 ,a shrug of the shoulders gave me to understand that the subject was too distressing to be further pursued4 ,o chivalry1 thou act fallen on grievous1--on money-loving times6 ,the title of ,baronet is insignificant1 having its origin too in a paltry sum of money paid to a needy king4 ,the list 7for it is not an order17 contains names that do honour to it3 yet ,i heard in my youth a young man of one of the first families in ,ireland1 afterwards ,marquess of ----1 talk peevishly of a parcel of d----d baronets4 ,in endeavouring to be superior to their equals1 or equal to their superiors1 they undertake a task which must make them unacceptable to both parties4 ,the ancient noblesse of ,france has neither feudal rights nor political power2 but it has its origin in what may be called the heroic ages of ,europe3 the peerage of ,france must look up to the nobles with respect2 and the people1 that it may honour them1 asks only to rank them among its friends4 ,it is a pity that the nobles should be generally reproached with want of instruction3 many of them plead in excuse that they are enfans de la revolution1 born at a time when their education was of necessity neglected4 ,i mentioned this excuse to an avocat4 ,bah6 they well know that their fathers were as ignorant as themselves4 ,the avocat's argument was not conclusive2 the nobles of the present day might1 but for the unsettled time of their youth1 have partaken of the gradual improvement in knowledge which pervades all classes2 and the remark1 je suis meilleur gentilhomme que mon pere1 parceque j'ai une generation de plus1#ed might have applied to other advantages than that of counting one generation more4 ,the ,french nobles have now no longer that which1 according to ,juvenal1 makes ignorance tolerable3 let us hope they will avail themselves of their diminished wealth to acquire that learning1 which1 according to the proverb1 though ,i do not believe it1 is better than house and land4 ,the practice of letting farms to a metayer1 who retains a share of the produce1 and pays his rent with the remainder1 is resorted to and continued from necessity4 ,the farmer has not capital enough to stock a farm4 ,if the proprietor1 after having made the necessary advances for the occupation of the land1 were to let the whole for a money rent1 the farmer would soon be in arrears1 and would end by running away4 ,metairie ,i suppose to be derived from the ,italian meta1 which signifies half4 ,the landlord's share is however not always in this proportion3 on fertile soils1 and on account of rich products1 he receives more than where more labour is required to reap an equal or less benefit4 ,i believe the half to be the minimum4 ,after having passed through nearly the whole length of ,europe1 with a taste prepared by a youth passed1 as ,gibbon says1 in port and prejudice2 and in the same college too1 ,i venture to assert1 that wine is good in proportion as the country in which it is produced is near the all-enlivening sun4 ,the wine of ,champagne1 which cannot remain for a minute and a half in the glass without growing flat2 that of ,burgundy1 which is hardly ever found but in an acid state2 that of ,bordeaux1 claret for boys2--not any one of these wines is to be compared 7not for strength only1 but for flavour also17 to the wines of the ,rhone and of ,provence4 ,such is my opinion3 experto credat who will4 ,it may amuse my reader to learn that he may perhaps have been drinking ,french wine1 when he little suspected that it lay concealed in humble port4 ,a trade1 which in its first stage is not contraband1 whatever it may be in its second1 is carried on between the ,french shores of the ,mediterranean and ,portugal3 wines are shipped off to ,oporto1 which1 by the help of brandy and other manipulation1 become good port wine for the ,london market4 ,i was told by a negociant1 an intelligent man1 not a wine-merchant1 that it was the wish of the wine-growers of ,france1 that wine imported into ,england should pay a duty ad valorem1 on the price1 not on the quantity4 ,he did not expect that the ,english government should be content to receive a less amount of duty on the same quantity of wine1 the mean quality supposed the same3 but he asserted that wines of inferior quality1 which could not be imported in the face of the duty per gallon1 would then find their way2 that the consumption of wine would be much increased2 and the ,english government1 as well as the ,french wine-dealer and proprietor of vineyards1 would both be benefited4 ,as fiscal regulations have spoiled our malt liquor1 it would be but fair to allow to those who are now ruining their health with rum and water1 the pleasure of drinking sometimes a bottle of small ,french wine4 ,what8 ,a bottle of ,burgundy at a farmer's ordinary8 ,gentlemen travellers drinking claret8 ,so much are men the slaves of habit1 that the supposition appears extravagant2 and1 after a twelvemonth1 the thing itself would be no more astonishing than it is now in ,france4 ,the ,french1 who have seen the atmosphere of smoke in which ,london is enveloped1 and the sea-coal pouring its volumes of smoke up the chimney1 have disseminated throughout ,france a certain horror of coal fires4 ,there are1 near ,lyons1 mines of coal of a quality superior to any ,i have yet seen1 like the ,wednesbury1 but better4 ,i had some difficulty in making the blacksmith comprehend what ought to be the form of such machines as grate1 poker1 fender4 ,things by their name ,i call2 though to my blacksmith ,i was obliged to use every sort of periphrasis4 ,my poker was made with a hook at the end of it2 the fender had a handle to it2 the bars of the grate were too small and too near each other4 ,the hook of the poker was soon straightened in the fire3 of the fender handle ,i was contented to declare1 il n'y a pas de mal a cela3#ee as the bars of my grate1 though near1 were not thick2 they did not intercept more heat than usual4 ,taking the precaution to have a wood fire in my second salon1 ,i ventured to invite my friends to see my fire de charbon de terre4 ,they were much surprised and pleased4 ,il n'y a pas de mauvaise odeur3 ce feu se fait respecter3 quelle chaleur6#ef ,the combined advantages of greater heat and less cost1 7for the coal fire was maintained at about half the expense of a wood fire17 procured imitators4 ,the general commanding the department had a grate set up3 the smith made it after his own faulty model1 declaring1 no doubt1 that it was a l',anglaise3 the general was1 however1 well satisfied1 telling me that the coal fire warmed the three rooms of his apartment as well as a wood fire in each and every one of them4 ,the woods have been especially ravaged during an aera of insecure possession2 and fire-wood1 always an expensive article1 is generally1 throughout ,france1 become dearer than formerly1 except in the neighbourhood of great forests4 ,i will endeavour to enable any one to judge how far it may be worth his while to come to reside in ,france from motives of economy4 ,with his motives for being economical ,i have nothing to do3 any one may be economical at home who pleases2 but it does not please some people to be economical at home3 others wish to have more for the same money4 ,the ,french are sometimes puzzled to make out why the ,english come abroad2 perhaps the ,english are sometimes equally puzzled themselves3 but1 with reference to economy1 sometimes the ,english seem to them to be travelling for the sake of spending money2 sometimes to be staying in ,france for the purpose of saving it3 the riches as well as the high prices of ,england are exaggerated2 the latter to a degree that would make the riches to be merely nominal3 then1 the difference between ,french and ,english prices is supposed to be so great1 that the saving1 by living in ,france1 must be enormous4 ,many ,english have1 at first1 no clearer notions than the ,french on these subjects4 ,the price of almost every article1 the produce of agricultural or manufacturing industry1 has been increased one-third1 some say two-fifths1 in ,france since the beginning of the ,revolution3 the taxes have been trebled4 ,we know that1 within the last thirty years1 prices and taxes have been augmented in ,england at about the same rates2 so that1 on both sides of the water1 the proportion has been preserved3 but the ,english knew very little of ,france during the war2 whereas the ,french knew ,england by their emigrants1 who reported truly the high prices then prevalent3 thus some unsettled or erroneous opinions on domestic economy may be accounted for4 ,i left ,england while paper currency was still in force1 and before prices were lowered as since they have been3 my estimate must be corrected accordingly4 ,the result of between three and four years experience is1 that about one-sixth is saved by living1 not in ,paris1 but in a provincial town in ,france1 or that a franc will go as far as a shilling4 ,set against this saving the expenses of the journey1 and the saving will not be great to those who do not retrench in their mode of life1 but live in ,france in the same style as at home4 ,the exchange on bills drawn on ,england may be favourable2 but some little money sticks in every hand through which money passes1 which balances this advantage4 ,house-rent is higher in ,france than in ,england2 fuel much dearer3 some manufactured articles1 as woollen cloth for coats1 and linen or cotton for shirts1 are equally dear3 colonial produce1 as sugar and coffee1 is of a variable price1 but not much cheaper3 tea is cheaper1 as the ,americans supply it1 or ,england with a remission of the duty4 ,but there are no assessed taxes1 no poor-rates3 provisions ,i found to be cheaper by about one-third than ,i had left them in ,england2 and my younger children1 instead of small beer1 with half a glass of wine each after dinner1 now drank wine1 with discretion indeed1 but at discretion4 ,the more numerous my family1 the greater was the advantage to me of this diminution of the daily expense of food4 ,yet ,i calculate that at the end of forty-two months1 including what the journey to ,avignon cost me1 and the difference between the price at which my furniture was bought1 and that at which it was sold1--,i had spent1 within one twentieth1 as much as it would have cost me to live in my county town in ,england with the the same establishment and in the same manner4 ,the smaller the income annually expended1 the greater in proportion will be the saving2 because it is chiefly on the necessary articles of living1 that expense is spared2 but a man of large1 or even of moderate fortune1 will hardly think it worth his while to dwell many years in a foreign country merely for the sake of saving five pounds in a hundred4 ,the less the distance to which he travels1 and the longer his stay2 the more he becomes acquainted with the mode of dealing1 and learns what are just prices2--the greater proportionably will be the savings of the economizing resident4 ,a saving of five per cent is at least not a loss4 ,wise men should not entertain extravagant expectations1 and prudent men should know what they are about to undertake4 ,those who are neither wise nor prudent had better stay at home3 ,i do not write for such2 but to give to family men such advice as ,i found no one capable of giving me2 but which1 through much toil and cost and peril1 ,i had obtained the faculty of offering to others4 ,,footnotes3 #ej ,o cherished liberty6 in vain ,i follow after thee3 ,i see thy tree every where1 and thy fruits no where4 #ea ,but it is in suffering continually4 #eb ,but what would you have8 the air is on fire4 #ec ,a mean or medium winter4 #ed ,i am a better gentleman than my father1 because ,i have one generation more4 #ee ,there is no harm in that4 #ef ,there is no bad smell4 ,this fire makes itself respected4 ,what a heat6 ,,chap4 ,,xii4 ,excepting only ,rome and its immediate neighbourhood1 no part of ,italy can exhibit so many remains of ,roman antiquity as are to be found within a short distance of ,avignon4 ,the ,romans seem to have united ,provence to ,italy1 as the ,french have since united ,piedmont to ,france4 ,our ,english travellers1 who1 according to the plan mentioned in the first chapter1 pass one summer in going to ,italy and another in returning from it1 will do well to make ,avignon their head quarters for some time1 and visit the curiosities around4 ,there is ,nismes with the ,pont du ,gard1 ,arles1 ,st4 ,remy1 ,orange1 already mentioned1 and other places4 ,there is also the far-famed fountain of ,vaucluse4 ,a commission of antiquarian research is established within the department2 at ,nismes also much attention is paid to these objects1 and with good reason2 for no town in ,europe1 ,rome excepted1 possesses such precious remains4 ,in the beginning of the month of ,september of my second year1 ,i hired a coach with three horses again1 7for no god of them all is so fond of an uneven number as these coach-masters17 and1 with part of my family1 took the road to ,vaucluse4 ,it passes first over a fertile alluvial plain1 formed1 in remote ages1 by the ,rhone and ,durance when they overflowed their banks1 as the ,oby and ,tobol do now4 ,then we traversed a country of corn1 wine1 and oil1 and descended to ,lisle1 a little town on the ,sorgues1 the river of ,vaucluse1 from whose fountain it is distant about four miles4 ,for three of these four miles as far as the village1 we were able to proceed in our carriage2 but1 from this point1 the ,naiad requires to be reverentially approached on foot4 ,we ascended a gentle steep1 the ,sorgues on our right-hand1--a stream1 which1 even here1 so near its head1 has force to turn several mills that harmonise well with the landscape4 ,above the mills it began to assume more and more a torrent-like appearance2 the rocks approached nearer on each side1 and confined us within a still closer valley4 ,whither has the nymph of the stream retired8 ,at length the termination of the valley appeared before us2 a lofty curtain of rock1 at half the height of which was seen a wide and dusky arch1 overshadowed by a fig-tree growing out of the precipice above4 ,over a shelving rock1 at the foot of this arch1 the water throws itself4 ,but there was at this time no cascade2 the fountain was more than ordinarily low2 streams gushed through fissures at the foot and sides of the rock below the arch1 and indicated their source4 ,the shelf or lip1 at the mouth of the cavern1 forms a natural bridge over these streams3 we ascended to this shelf1 and went down into the cavern a considerable depth before we arrived at the water3 here1 a rock projecting into the water prevented us from going into a second cavern2 but we could see1 7for the opening above afforded sufficient light17 that this second cavern was the last4 ,i thought it very fortunate that the fountain was so low3 had it been full1 we should have seen a water-fall2 but ,i had now seen the ,helicon of ,petrarch1--had penetrated to the source of his inspiration1 ------atque sacri libamina palleo fontis1 as was written by a young man of genius at ,oxford1 in my time1 whose name ,i do not remember1 though ,i have not forgotten this striking and beautiful expression4 ,in sober sadness1 ,i think it an advantage to understand the nature and situation of the fountain better than ,i should have done had ,i seen only a picturesque cascade4 ,i do not believe the immediate source of the fountain to be within the cavern1 but that its waters are supplied in subterranean courses by the surrounding country3 this is proved1 ,i think1 by their quantity being so much affected by rain or drought4 ,st4 ,winifred's well at ,holywell1 in ,flintshire1--a fountain as copious as that of the ,sorgues1--is not at all increased or diminished by any change of the seasons4 ,we loitered for two hours on the bank of the tumbling torrent1 sat under the shade of walnut trees1 and eat of their fallen fruit2 drank water from the fountain1 talked about ,petrarch and ,laura1 and refused1 from incredulity1 and on account of the heat of the sun1 to mount a hill to a house which1 we were assured1 had been inhabited by the bard4 ,at the village of ,vaucluse1 we took into our carriage some delicious grapes1 and returned to ,lisle1 where we dined on eels and trout1 the boasted fare of the place1 prepared in three several ways4 ,as the landlord at ,lisle is said sometimes to over-charge1 ,i will do his reputation the justice to observe that1 for a dejeune a la fourchette1 and dinner for five persons1 with good vin du pays1 he demanded twenty-five francs1--perhaps ten sous a head too much4 ,we got into our coach as the sun set and the moon rose1 and our three horses took us back to ,avignon in two hours4 ,in the very heart and centre of the romantic scenery of the ,vallis ,clausa1 a little to the right of the cavern out of which issues the fountain1 on the ledge over which it falls1 is stuck a mean ugly pillar1 put there by somebody to commemorate something4 ,i mention this pillar only in the hope that good taste will command its demolition4 ,even if it were fine and rare1 it would be there misplaced3 fortasse cupressum scis simulare1 but what has that to do with a shipwreck8 ,my younger son had accompanied to ,vaucluse the lady whose visit of fifteen days had so much astonished the ,avignonais a few months before4 ,our excursion thither was made under the conduct of my elder son1 and was rendered more agreeable by his frank manners and cheerful attentions4 ,as the fate of this young man1 now in his nineteenth year1 is the occurrence the most important to me1 and1 ,i am persuaded1 the subject most interesting to my readers in the contents of this narrative1--,i will give some account of the infancy of this son1 that he may be introduced to their acquaintance1 and the last scene of his life in some sort prepared for4 ,alas6 within two years1 on the anniversary of our journey to ,vaucluse1 the delirium of his fever deprived me for the remainder of my life of the comfort of his society1 excepting only one short and consoling conversation immediately before his death4 ,i trust1 in the divine mercy1 to rejoin him in the abodes of the just4 ,his birth was announced to me at three o'clock in the morning of the #eth of ,may #ahja4 ,in anxious expectation of this news ,i had forborn to retire to rest4 ,it was still necessary for me to wait some little time before ,i could be admitted to see my first-born4 ,i then lived at ,bath1 in the west wing of ,lansdown ,crescent3 behind each house of this building is a long strip of garden1 of the breadth of the house4 ,in the tumult of new affections ,i went out into my garden3 the twilight of the morning was visible3 ,i offered to ,god this child1 who1 by the ancient law1 would have been consecrated to him1 to serve at the altar1 if such were the divine will2 praying that1 in whatever state1 he might so live as to secure his own salvation1 and contribute to the edification of others3 that if he were not to fulfil this only worthy purpose of existence1 he might now die in infancy2 but that rather his days might be prolonged1 if that were to the glory of ,god1 and the increase of his own merit and reward4 ,my prayer was heard3 ,i returned into the house1 and gave a father's blessing to the stranger4 ,he received in baptism the names ,henry ,kenelm2 the former adopted in his family for the last four generations1 the latter derived from my maternal grandfather4 ,his sponsors were ,sir ,thomas ,fletewood1 the last of an ancient and pious family of ,cheshire2 and his lady1 afterwards married to the ,count ,st4 ,martin de ,front1 ,sardinian ambassador at ,london4 ,to her it is no doubt a source of ,christian consolation to know1 even in this life1 that her godson fulfilled the engagement contracted in his name4 ,they who have attentively observed the early years of children must be convinced that each and every one of them is born with a distinct and individual character4 ,two men of fifty1 stained with the variation of each soil1 will differ from each other in manners and opinions more than two children of the same family3 but two children of the same family will1 in character1 differ from each other as much as two men of fifty4 ,pascal suggests a doubt whether1 as custom is called a second nature1 nature itself may not be a former custom4 ,this profound thought leads to the question whether human souls have existed previously to their imprisonment in this body of our humiliation4 ,that they have so existed ,i think extremely probable for many very cogent reasons3 it is an opinion which ,i could defend1 merely as an opinion1 by many powerful arguments4 ,i am contented not to be wise beyond what is written4 ,yet it is written that1 when the disciples asked our ,lord1 ,did this man sin or his parents1 that he was born blind8 our ,lord1 without reproving the supposition that the man might have sinned before his birth1 simply answered1 ,neither did this man sin1 nor his parents4 ,henry ,kenelm manifested1 as early as the natural character can be manifested1 a proud1 impetuous1 obstinate1 angry temper3 that he wanted any thing was1 with him1 a reason why he should have it2 that any other child was younger or weaker than himself1 entitled him1 as he thought1 to domineer4 ,he had also the good qualities usually opposed to these faults in the same character2 he was generous1 grateful1 confiding1 compassionate4 ,as no one1 in so short a life1 ever more completely subdued than he did the faults of his natural temper1 ,i record them for the sake of doing homage to that religion by the aid of which he was enabled to correct them4 ,his understanding was quick and lively1 and he learned readily and with pleasure4 ,a cause of hindrance and delay that occurred to him in learning to read shall here be mentioned as a caution to parents1 institutors1 and governesses4 ,to play at learning to read is regarded as a great improvement on the ,reading-made-easy1 of less enlightened times4 ,a lady made him a present of a cylindrical ivory box containing counters1 on which were inscribed the letters of the alphabet4 ,he trundled the box on the carpet1 he threw the letters on the carpet1 and viewed them in all directions1 sometimes sideways1 sometimes topsy-turvy2 so that he no longer knew them again when he saw them upright in a book3 b and q and d and p more especially puzzled him3 besides1 the place of letters in words is of great use towards learning their power1 and this help his counters did not afford him4 ,to impose on him the task of arranging the letters in verbal order1 would have included all the restraint of a formal lesson4 ,the conclusion is1 that if children play1 they do not learn2 and while they learn1 they must not play3 there is a time for all things3 their lessons must be short on account of the softness of the brain1 but attention must be insisted on2 they cannot be cheated as to the nature of the occupation1 but they have sense enough to find pleasure in the consciousness of improvement4 ,when ,kenelm was little more than five years and a half old1 his elder sister died3 she was thirteen months younger than himself4 ,never was child more lovely in death than this little girl4 ,i gazed on her with the feeling1 since portrayed in the inimitable lines of the ,giaour1 beginning ,he who hath bent him o'er the dead4 ,these lines ,i read fourteen years afterwards at ,avignon2 they thrilled and electrified me3 the touch of genius recalled the scene ,i had witnessed4 ,yet it should seem that associations supplied by reason and experience are requisite to the contemplation of such an object with the sentiments described by ,lord ,byron4 ,i led ,kenelm to see his sister two hours after her death3 terror was his predominant emotion2 the immobility of what still so much resembled life appalled him4 ,he burst into tears4 ,if ,i had thought she would have looked so1 ,i would not have come to see her2 nor could he for some time pass the door of that chamber without shuddering4 ,when he was twelve years old1 ,i placed him at ,stoneyhurst college in ,lancashire4 ,this society of ,english ,jesuits1 the dreadful ,jesuits of ,st4 ,omers1 of the ,popish plot1 had1 within half a century1 suffered three removes or demenagemens1 which both the ,french and ,english proverb says are worse than a fire4 ,they had been expelled from ,st4 ,omers by the ,french government1 had been obliged by ,joseph ,,ii4 to quit ,bruges1 and had been driven from ,liege by the approach of the ,french armies4 ,they had now been established for some years in a country-seat of the family of ,lulworth castle4 ,mr4 ,weld had given them a beneficial lease of the house and domain of ,stoneyhurst1 for which they expressed much gratitude4 ,it is good to be grateful3 gratitude is a ,christian virtue1 and well-becoming those who by their missions1 their literary labours1 and their institutions for education1 have acquired so much glory to themselves1 and rendered such signal services to the ,christian world4 ,let them always be grateful4 ,an account of their plan of education may not be unacceptable1 and may furnish some hints to the heads of our great schools4 ,i am inclined to think that the ,jesuits1 though as much spoken against1 are very little more known in ,england than at the time when ,i left it4 ,the whole number of boys1 about two hundred and fifty1 is divided into six schools or classes1 to each of which a master is appointed1 who1 in the course of six years1 conducts his set of boys1 from the elements of grammar in the ,french1 ,latin1 and ,greek languages1 to rhetoric1 or the reading of the best classical authors4 ,the fifth year1 or that before rhetoric1 is set apart for the study of the poets only4 ,after this course of six years1 lectures are given by the professors of moral and natural philosophy4 ,the masters have no intercourse with their scholars except during the holding the class or saying the lesson3 prefects are appointed to superintend them at all other times4 ,they study in a large room destined to this use only3 a prefect1 in a lofty tribune1 enforces application3 a prefect attends them while at play to prevent violence1 quarrelling1 or indecorous language3 a prefect sleeps in a little room with a glass door at the end of the dormitory4 ,the play-ground is divided into two equal portions1 one of which is allotted to the boys of the three higher1 the other to the boys of the three lower schools1 and no one is allowed to cross the bisecting line4 ,thus the tyranny of the great boys over the little ones1 and the requisition of petty1 irregular1 or mischievous services is prevented3 thus also the years and strength of those who play together are generally more equal4 ,no master or other superior1 who conceives that a boy has deserved punishment1 is allowed to inflict that punishment himself1 but is obliged to send such boy to the prefect appointed for the time administrator of the ferula3 the boys1 either from custom or the point of honour1 or the fear of worse1 always ask for the number of strokes of the ferula which they may be ordered by the superior to receive4 ,a whimsical result of subordination1 that a lad of seventeen shall go to a man of five and twenty1 and say1 ,please1 ,sir1 to give me nine ferulas4 ,horace talks of the ferula2 he does not say that he petitioned for it himself2 and ,i saw1 by an al fresco at ,portici1 that boys were flogged1 two thousand years ago1 just as they now are in our country schools4 ,the dormitory is a lofty room1 in which each boy has his bed-place to himself1 separated from his neighbours by a wainscot partition six feet high2 a curtain1 with a number upon it1 is drawn at the foot of the bed-place1 which is open at the top4 ,during the day-time the dormitory is locked1 and none but the servants of the house are1 on any account1 permitted to go into it4 ,the eleves of ,stoneyhurst wear an uniform3 this regulation1 ,i am persuaded1 has a better moral influence on their minds than ferulas and disciplines3 their feet are accommodated1 as a fine writer once expressed it1 with very thick shoes2 and their heads are protected by a leathern cap3 this cap is made to shade the face or to be turned up at pleasure2 it is trimmed with fur1 and1 while fresh1 looks very smart3 but it is soon degraded1 as the ,french phrase is1 by the various uses to which caprice or convenience induces the boys to apply it3 they sit upon it2 they kneel upon it2 they blow1 or rather fan the fire with it2 they use it for a bag1 and perhaps sometimes1 when unseen by the prefect1 they give each other slaps on the face with it2--a trait d'ecolier for the which its form1 when folded1 is admirably well adapted4 ,a blue jacket and red waistcoat of coarse cloth1 dark velveteen pantalon1 and worsted stockings1 a black velvet stock round the collar of a very coarse shirt1 complete the habiliments of the ,stoneyhurst collegian4 ,forsan et haec olim1 c4 ,the boys rise at half past five in the morning and go to bed at half past eight in the evening4 ,prayers in the chapel begin and end every day1 and they assist at mass daily4 ,those who are of sufficient age confess and communicate once a fortnight4 ,such are1 in the main1 the regulations of this ,jesuits' college4 ,during their unsettled state1 the society had admitted but few new members2 in consequence1 the education of their youth was1 at this time1 conducted chiefly by old men without activity1 and young men without experience4 ,the course of a few years has remedied this evil4 ,when ,kenelm arrived at ,stoneyhurst1 his heart bounded within him at the sight of the spacious buildings1 and of between two and three hundred playfellows3 he immediately procured a cap and black collar1 and was as vain of them as a young ensign of his cockade and sword4 ,the superior led me over the college2 ,kenelm followed and considered all as provided for his use and convenience4 ,i tried to persuade him that his visits to the library1 the academy-room1 the strangers' apartment1 and the garden of the superiors1 would not hereafter be very frequent2 that his repasts in the refectory1 though sufficient and wholesome1 would not be luxurious4 ,i was unable to moderate his transport3 hardly could ,i prevail on him to show some signs of regret at parting from me4 ,i appealed to ,philip when sober4 ,the next summer1 ,i found him sober enough3 he had discovered that he was only one of a crowd2 he felt the want of domestic affections1 and of those comforts which home only can supply4 ,i consoled him however1 and left him1 after three days spent at ,whalley1 in a disposition to endure all that his duty and the destined course of his studies might require4 ,o ,athenians1 said ,themistocles1 how much do ,i suffer to gain your applause6 ,children have but too much reason to exclaim1 ,o ,themistocles1 how much do we suffer to be able to read your history6 ,the next summer1 ,i sent for him to ,park ,gate1 where he rejoined his brother and sisters after two years absence4 ,to the number of his sisters was added one1 whose infancy1 unsuited for travelling1 delayed my journey to ,france4 ,at this time he was gay and cheerful3 he did not know the world1 and was not afraid of it2 yet his behaviour was directed by an ever sure sense of propriety4 ,i was pleased and satisfied with him3--he passed five weeks with us4 ,i had given him the meeting at ,liverpool1 whither he had been conducted by a prefect3 ,i now took him back to the same town1 where we found a prefect with whom he returned to his college4 ,in the month of ,july of the following year1 #ahaf1 ,i received a letter from one of the superiors of the college1 informing me that my son1 with thirty-six other boys1 had fallen ill of the measles2 that my son had recovered1 but1 having been allowed to go out too soon1 had again fallen ill4 ,the letter was couched in terms so ambiguous1 and implying so much doubt of the event1 that it caused great alarm4 ,i set off immediately3 no other letter was written1 and ,kenelm's mother was kept in a state of fearful anxiety1 till ,i wrote to her from ,stoneyhurst that her son was recovered from the relapse4 ,he was however so much weakened1 that ,i thought it advisable to take him to the sea-coast4 ,i passed ten days with him alone1 and had an opportunity of appreciating his character1 of observing his unaffected good sense1 his gentle and amiable manners1 his watchfulness over his conscience1 his dutiful affection to his father1 his piety towards ,god4 ,we returned to college to be present at the academy-day1 and the distribution of the prizes4 ,kenelm had been assured that1 but for his illness1 one of these prizes would have fallen to his share4 ,i comforted him as well as ,i could1 quoting--satis est potuisse videri4 ,in the spring of the following year1 ,i took my younger son to ,stoneyhurst1 in the hope that the brothers would find present pleasure in each others' company1 and hereafter talk over together the scenes of their boyhood4 ,i observed that ,kenelm's spirits appeared depressed3 ,i questioned him2 he assured me he had nothing to complain of3 ,i interrogated the master3 he spoke of ,kenelm with great regard1 and knew not that any cause of uneasiness existed for him4 ,i passed three days with my sons1 during which time ,kenelm's cheerfulness returned1 or seemed to return2 and ,i left them together4 ,towards the end of this year1 ,i finally resolved to put in execution my long-projected1 long-delayed1 continental plan4 ,i advised the brothers of my purpose1 who were1 of course1 delighted with the news4 ,a kind and much-esteemed friend1 who wished to see ,stoneyhurst college1 brought them back with him into ,lincolnshire at the end of ,march following4 ,in the month that intervened between the return of my sons and our arrival in ,paris1 the expectation of the journey1 the preparation for the journey1 and the journey itself1 so far occupied the mind of ,kenelm1 that ,i had not remarked in him any extraordinary want of gaiety3 ,i perceived only that he was more serious1 that his manner was less frank1 and even his carriage less easy than heretofore4 ,at ,paris1 the first discovery ,i made respecting him was that he was become short-sighted4 ,as we were viewing the statues of the ,louvre1 he exclaimed1 ,i see nothing but blocks of marble2 and he went off immediately to ,chevalier's1 the optician1 to buy himself a lorgnette4 ,i sympathized with him1 knowing by experience that a short sight deprives us of a great part of the pleasure of existence1 besides being an incalculable disadvantage in society4 ,he imputed his short-sightedness to his having imprudently given himself up to study1 before his health was fully re-established after the measles1 in the hope of gaining1 at the next academy-day1 the medal which he had lost by his illness2 that he had read a great deal by the flaring gas lights with which the college is illuminated4 ,something remained behind1 a reserve1 a sadness even1 which ,i entreated him to account for4 ,he gave me his full confidence2 and ,i learned1 with very great sorrow1 that1 for the last eighteen months of his stay in college1 his mind had been a prey to scruples4 ,this pious awe1 and fear to have offended1 carried to excess through inexperience and a want of due apprehension that it is by the will only that we offend1--had destroyed his gaiety1 retarded his improvement1 and doubtlessly much injured his health4 ,i asked him1 ,what advice did your director give you8--,none4--,any other superior8--,none4 ,yet his state was sufficiently evident3 he joined in no play2 he did not seek the company of his brother4 ,alone1 or with one or two companions1 he employed the time allowed for play in walking up and down1 indulging the workings of his own mind4 ,i regretted that ,i had not taken him home when he requested1 after his illness3 ,i regretted that1 instead of taking his brother to college1--a measure so inefficient for his consolation1--,i had not come to ,france a twelvemonth sooner3 ,i regretted the time lost1 and the time that was still to be lost in regaining it4 ,but ,kenelm's mind was now at ease2 feelings1 originating probably in a weak state of health1 and continued only through want of good counsel and sympathy1 were at an end1 when he found himself with those whom he loved1 by whom he was beloved3 his understanding was too clear for him to persevere either in inadequate notions of the divine goodness1 or in false judgments respecting duty4 ,scruples are1 by no means1 of the nature of religious melancholy2 they are not inconsistent with the ,christian grace of hope3 they suppose innocence2 for the sinner may be hardened1 may be penitent1 may be wavering1 but cannot properly be said to be scrupulous3 scruples not only preserve from sin1 but have also the good effect 7the gift of divine mercy17 of purging the heart from all affection to sin1 as was manifested in the future life of ,kenelm4 ,yet this fear1 the beginning of wisdom1 acting on an ill-informed conscience1 is hurtful1 as it indisposes to a cheerful energetic performance of duty4 ,i said to ,kenelm1 ,if there are beings1 7and we are told that such there are17 who are interested that man should do ill1 they could by no other means so effectually obtain their purpose as by fixing our attention on that by which we may offend4 ,a priest1 whom ,i had known in ,england during his emigration1 and whom ,i had the advantage of meeting again at ,paris2 a man whose sanctity inspired ,kenelm with respect and confidence1--said to him1 ,unless you shall be as sure that you have offended ,god in the way in which you apprehend1 as you would be sure of having committed murder1 ,i forbid you to mention it even to me in confession4 ,i will own that the vigour and prudence united in this counsel struck me with awe4 ,the saints are men of great minds3 philosophers are mistaken in thinking them fools4 ,a kind and discreet priest1 at ,avignon1 talked to ,kenelm in the same sense1 reminding him of the saying of ,st4 ,francis of ,sales1 that scruples are the worst things in the world except sin4 ,kenelm's mind recovered its wonted cheerfulness and activity3 family affections1 change of scene1 and new occupations soon completed what good advice had begun4 ,he was yet too young to enter into society3 he laboured to perfect himself in the ,french language2 he was delighted with drawing1 declaring that1 were it consistent with duty1 he could pass the whole day in that amusement4 ,he continued his classical studies from the point at which they had been interrupted by his leaving college1 where he was in his fifth or poetical year4 ,i read with him ,homer and ,virgil4 ,of the ,iliad he said1 that1 a few well-known sublime passages excepted1 the rest1 was vulgar3 and when ,i mouthed forth the ,greek1 in order to impose on him the conviction that it was very fine1--,i grant you that ,homer has the advantage of a sonorous language and the hexameter line2 but there is very little grace in the expression1 nor is the thought deserving of it4 ,he admired the delicacy of sentiment in the ,a,eneid3 he discovered in it traces of more advanced civilization and more improved knowledge than are to be found in ,homer1 as well as a more correct and refined taste4 ,i recommended the ,odyssey to him1 not only on account of its varied fable and specious wonders1 but for the justness with which human character and natural feeling are there rendered4 ,we also read together that ,machiavel of historians1 ,tacitus1 who1 as ,i endeavoured to persuade ,kenelm1 has treated the fame of ,tiberius with great injustice1 by representing him1 on every occasion1 as a cunning and cruel tyrant2 whereas he was always wise1 habitually just1 and often beneficent4 ,let any one fairly and impartially analyse the actions of this sovereign and the comments of the historian1 and he will perhaps be inclined to allow that my opinion is not altogether unreasonable4 ,concerning the personal vices of ,tiberius there is here no question4 ,i was delighted with one of the results of my continental plan1--that my children were now all of them under my own care4 ,to what purpose subject boys to all the privations1 restraints1 and severities1--all the consequences of the ignorances and negligences of the managers of great schools1--that they may acquire a very moderate knowledge of two dead languages1 which they generally neglect during the rest of their lives2 and this for six years or more8 ,who doubts but that he could learn to read ,french in six months8 ,and why should he not be equally capable of learning ,latin in the same space of time8 ,and in six months more he may learn to read ,greek1 which is rather the easier language of the two3 he may thus obtain admission to the treasures of wisdom and good taste contained in those languages1 in one-sixth of the time now usually thrown away in a vain attempt to that purpose2 for1 ,i repeat it1 boys are compelled to employ the time of their education in not learning what is of no use to them4 ,latin is no longer the language of literary composition1 diplomatic intercourse1 or epistolary correspondence4 ,it is sufficient that a few men1 in every generation1 write ,latin1 like ,bishop ,louth1 or ,dr4 ,martin ,joseph ,routh4 ,the principal nations of ,europe have their classics1 formed indeed upon the ancient classical model2 and these1 therefore1 will be better understood and more enjoyed by those who cultivate an acquaintance with that model4 ,still1 however1 such previous acquaintance is not indispensable3 its advantage consists chiefly in being able to note allusions and institute comparisons4 ,let me not be understood to express a wish that the ,greek and ,latin authors were less read than they are at present2 on the contrary1 ,i hope that they will always be considered as an essential part of the studies of a literary man4 ,that the ,greek especially should be so little known as now it is1 is to me a cause of regret4 ,this language has the singular privilege of having been1 during twelve centuries1 the language of the most ingenious and enlightened people of all that existed during that long aera4 ,we have their authors from ,hesiod to ,photius1 and still lower down2 a library superior to that of any modern nation2 for the trash has been swept away4 ,far1 very far from me1 be the desire1 that it should be said of such a people in any sense1 literary or political1 ',tis ,greece1 but living ,greece no more4 ,i have been led into this train of reflection1 on recording the contentment with which ,i saw my children under my own superintendence at ,avignon4 ,how far it may be reasonable to continue to inflict on our sons all the suffering which they endure1 when banished from the paternal roof1 and consigned to the coarse1 undiscriminating care of strangers for the sake of the instruction acquired by this plan1 ,i leave every one to determine for himself4 ,,chap4 ,,xiii4 ,three days after our excursion to ,vaucluse1 ,i went with my sons to the ,pont du ,gard and ,nismes4 ,our coach stopt1 for three hours1 at ,foix2 we took our dejeune1 at which we had delicious grapes and execrable wine3 one instance amongst a thousand of the ingenuity of man in spoiling the gifts of ,providence1 and its agent1 ,nature4 ,we walked to the ,pont du ,gard1 about a mile from our inn4 ,as it is at an equal distance from ,avignon and from ,nismes1 parties1 from each of these towns1 make it a point of rendezvous1 establish a pic-nic1 and pass the day together4 ,when we arrived near the ,pont1 we saw a large company from ,nismes1 regaling themselves in a spacious1 dry cavern1 well situated for their purpose1 and affording a most agreeable shade4 ,we passed them to go nearer to the bridge3 one of them followed us2 his accent announced him to be an ,irishman1 and his uniform to be an officer in the ,french service4 ,he conversed with us a few minutes1 and promised to call on me at ,nismes4 ,at the side of the lower part of the ,pont du ,gard and forming part of it1 is a bridge over the ,gardon3 this bridge has been widened in modern times1 but the ancient wheel-track is still seen on the side nearest to the aqueduct4 ,above the bridge rise three tiers of arches1 each tier diminishing in the size1 and increasing in the number1 of its arches4 ,along the top is the canal1 through which flowed the water for the supply of ,nematia at the distance of seventeen miles4 ,the whole has the appearance of a magnificent screen of arcades1 thrown across the narrow and rocky valley through which the ,gardon forces its way4 ,both the sides of this screen are beautiful1 but the lower side is most to be admired4 ,the ground falls away before it1 and gives it the appearance of being loftier3 it is in a quite secluded scene1 in which no road or bridge appears4 ,this precious remain of antiquity is sufficiently ruined and touched by time to harmonize well with the landscape1 but yet so fresh and entire as to call up no idea of decay or desolation4 ,the aqueducts of ,frejus and of ,rome are curious1 but they possess no beauty in themselves1 and derive none from the surrounding scenery4 ,suppose the ,pont du ,gard in a plain1 it would still be beautiful as a piece of architecture3 see it1 where it is1 enclosed by the sides of a deep valley and bestriding a rapid river1 you will admit it to be an object at once grand and picturesque4 ,we arrived at ,nismes at three in the afternoon1 tired and overpowered by the heat and dust4 ,we gave up three hours to rest and cool ourselves1 and at six set down to dinner2 we then walked out by the moon-light of a southern clime4 ,we passed several handsome buildings2 at length ,i beheld one which immediately arrested my attention3 that shall be the ,maison ,quarree1 exclaimed ,i4 ,never had ,i seen1 nor have ,i since seen any thing in architecture so graceful3 it seemed by the uncertain moon-light rather to be descending from the skies than standing on the earth4 ,we returned the next morning4 ,the portico1 from its having been in the shade the preceding evening1 we had then been hardly able to distinguish3 this1 with the interior and every part of this exquisitely beautiful building1 and all its fine proportions and finished ornaments1 filled us with delight and wonder4 ,the amphitheatre is close by the ,maison ,quarree3 the site of the larger building may very fairly be indicated by that of the smaller1 when the smaller edifice is the more interesting of the two4 ,milton1 without any such excuse1 talks of the earth close by the moon2 though his critic ,bentley has indeed corrected the punctuation1 the earth1 close by1 the moon4 ,this is what may be called punctilious4 ,had ,i not since seen the ,coliseum1 ,i should consider the amphitheatre of ,nismes as indestructible3 luckily no builders of palaces have tried the experiment4 ,it is composed of enormous stones1 large in all the three dimensions1 length1 breadth1 and thickness1 which must have required powers of mechanism1 known to the ,romans1 but now lost1 to raise them to the height at which they now are seen4 ,this amphitheatre is said to be rather less in size and rather more ruined than that of ,verona3 it is entire1 however1 all but the lower ranges of seats3 the arena is occasionally used for a spectacle somewhat resembling bullfights4 ,in the gardens are found remains of ancient baths1 many pieces of mosaic pavement1 and the ruins of the temple of ,diana1 in which are shown other objects found in digging in the neighbourhood4 ,they were blowing up rock on the side of the hill near the garden1 to improve and extend it still further1 and to facilitate the approach to the ,tour ,magne1 or great tower of ,roman construction4 ,to this tower we ascended2 the tower itself we could not ascend3 it is a hollow cylinder1 without staircase1 or roof1 or platform2 the view1 however1 even at the bottom of the tower is sufficiently extensive all around4 ,southward1 it reaches to the ,mediterranean2 and though ,i do not believe that the sea reached to ,nismes1 though such is the popular notion2--yet its shores have much receded on this coast4 ,aigues ,mortes1 where ,st4 ,louis embarked for the crusades1 is now three leagues from the sea4 ,frejus1 ,forum ,julii1 is no longer a port3 it is probable1 then1 that the ,tour ,magne was once a light-house or a land-mark4 ,nismes1 like almost every other ancient town1 is ill-built1 ill-paved1 and ill-pierced2 but then1 in compensation1 it has a ,boulevard all around1 or broad road lined with trees2 and houses and buildings are continued all along with very few intervals of interruption4 ,the city being in the centre1 here1 on these ,boulevards1 are united the accommodations of a town with the fresh air and promenades of the country3 indeed1 of fresh air there is rather too much2 it often amounts to wind1 and then the dust becomes inconvenient2 but the gardens are delightful4 ,in this town are thirteen thousand protestants4 ,i know not that ,english protestants can choose a better town than ,nismes for a retreat in the ,south of ,france3 they will find places of public worship1 the want of which many of them regret when abroad3 there are also schools kept by protestants4 ,the protestantism is ,genevan2 but n'importe2 all protestantism is1 to a protestant1 equally true3 we have seen a ,calvinist and a ,lutheran ,king become good members of the ,church of ,england at the end of the seventeenth1 and beginning of the eighteenth century4 ,in the evening we rambled among the vineyards on the slopes1 and reached the summits of the hills at the foot of which ,nismes is situated at the edge of a vast plain4 ,a locality like this seems favourable to a great town4 ,it draws its supply of wood1 wine1 and water1 from the one sort of country1 and its corn1 meat1 and forage1 from the other4 ,we supped in the salon of our inn1 the ,louvre3 there were several tables4 ,at one of these was seated a party of ,spaniards1 who vociferated and gesticulated in a manner which they meant perhaps to impose on us for dignity1 but which ,i thought inconsistent with ,castilian gravity4 ,at the time1 it did not occur to either party that our opinion of each other was perfectly insignificant to both4 ,at our table1 besides other persons1 we met a gentleman with whom ,i was acquainted at ,avignon2 and another who1 after supper1 7for he economized his time for eating17 began a political tirade1 which1 though addressed to the ,french1 derived its chief zest from the presence of the ,english4 ,he asserted that the ,duke of ,wellington was surprised by the approach of ,napoleon to ,brussels1 quitted the ball-room in silk stockings1 and went to lose the battle of ,waterloo1 which battle was gained by the ,prussians4 ,as a sort of appeal was made to me to defend the military reputation of my ,irish countryman1 ,i objected the improbability of a surprise1 as two battles had just been fought in the neighbourhood4 ,he reverted to the conclusion to be drawn from the silk stockings3 ,i replied ,puisqu'il y a des improbabilites des deux cotes1 il faut demander au ,duc lui-meme4#eg ,en attendant1 7for the answer1 though1 no doubt1 it would have been satisfactory1 could not be quickly obtained17 the politician began a discussion on the wealth of ,england1 the existence of which he questioned on account of its debt and paper currency4 ,again appealed to1 ,i admitted that the taxes raised for the payment of the interest of the debt made every individual by so much the poorer1 but that the national wealth was not diminished1 as the taxes passed into the hands of the fund-holders4 ,he then went off to paper money1 on which he talked with great good sense3 ,reste a savoir si l',angleterre est veritablement riche2 pour moi je crois que la chose representee n'equivaut pas ce qui la represente4#eh ,i quote the purport of his words1 and the words as nearly as ,i can remember them4 ,he hit1 ,i think1 upon the cause of late and present commercial embarrassments3 wealth is over-represented4 ,the quantity of paper in circulation at any given time is not a sufficient criterion whether this be or be not the case4 ,every re-issue or new issue of a bank note is in fact a new coinage3 in this1 as well as in the facility of their creation1 bank notes differ from metallic currency1 and this difference is1 to the state1 the more important of the two4 ,representation is continually pressing on the limits of real wealth1 and is from time to time regorged4 ,pay your bank notes in money1 said ,napoleon in answer to some boasting statement of the wealth of ,england4 ,this too is the only security against bankruptcies4 ,our politician was evidently seeking a quarrel4 ,in this purpose he was by no means encouraged by the rest of the company1 who1 every now and then1 threw in some qualifying1 temperate remark4 ,at the pressing instance of ,kenelm1 who1 not having sufficient experience to be impartial1 felt his choler rising1 we retired to rest4 ,the next day1 after a farewell view of the ,maison ,quarree1 we returned to ,avignon1 which we reached in six hours4 ,a protestant friend1 being at ,avignon1 wished to see the ,maison ,quarree1 and inquired of me if it was safe to go to ,nismes4 ,will not the papists murder me8 ,the cause of this dread is curious2 the explication of it may amuse the impartial1 that is1 almost nobody2 but ,i will venture4 ,the protestants of ,nismes had all been favourable to the ,revolution4 ,the ancient royal government of ,france had not indeed1 like the queen and parliament of ,england1 insisted on every man's changing his faith1 but it had resisted the introduction of a new religion3 these two cases are very different1 though perpetually confounded both by the tolerant and intolerant amongst us4 ,however1 the protestants of ,nismes very naturally threw their weight into that balance1 the preponderance of which promised them the assurance of their civil rights and political consideration4 ,the catholics on the contrary1 not having these motives1 and carrying into politics that love of stability1 the principle of which they find in their religion1 disliked political change1 and were well pleased with the return of the king4 ,c'est la le beau cote de la religion catholique2 elle n'approuve pas les revolutions1#ei said a protestant minister of a protestant king4 ,he regarded the matter like a statesman1 and no further4 ,during the republican and imperial governments the protestants were the stronger party at ,nismes1 and had made the catholics feel that they were so4 ,on the restoration1 a scuffle took place between the parties1 in which some half dozen protestants were killed4 ,of this unlucky affray great advantage was taken in ,england3 committees were appointed and subscriptions raised for the purpose of succouring our distressed brethren1 the protestants of the south of ,france4 ,the no popery cry being once well set up1 it was thought right to inquire into the extent of the mischief4 ,a letter was returned from ,france1 reporting nearly what has been stated above2 this letter the noble person to whom it was addressed kept in his pocket some days before he sent it to the committee1 that the no popery cry might not go down too soon4 ,the fear entertained by my friend of being murdered by the papists at ,nismes need not now be wondered at3 it was only three or four years since such things had happened2 and it is well known1 that what has happened once1 may happen again4 ,hatred of popery is1 in ,england1 an amiable sentiment originating in a love of religious truth and confirmed by political wisdom4 ,in such a sentiment1 so pure in its source1 so wise in its direction1 heroes of all sorts may glory4 ,in them it is distinguishable from poperyphobia3 they are not afraid of popery3 popery is afraid of them4 ,shakspeare's ,hotspur cries out1 ,a plague o' this quiet life3 ,i want work4 ,for myself1 being no hero1 ,i love a quiet life2 but ,i cannot refuse to heroes the tribute of admiration that is due to them and their laurels4 ,for the catholics of ,nismes1 ,i believe them to be more devout and more decorous than those of the rest of ,france4 ,the circumstances in which they are placed render this probable4 ,the catholics of ,england are the most zealous and the most decent of all ,christendom3 an ,italian nobleman1 who knew them well1 said to me1 in speaking of them1 ce sont des saints3#fj a papal nuncio to the ,brazils1 thrown by a sort of shipwreck on the ,english coast1 and going to chapel in ,london1 was delighted to find what he called so precious a portion of the church of ,christ4 ,i went into some of the churches of ,nismes1 and found1 on the inner door of one of them1 an ecriteau requesting the faithful not to allow their dogs to follow them to church4 ,at ,avignon the dogs made love1 or war1 and barked in the churches at pleasure4 ,reluctant to approach to the catastrophe of my residence in ,france1 ,i loiter on my way1 and turn aside into by-paths4 ,yet a little more of detail1 ,i hope neither tedious nor uninstructive1--yet a few more notices respecting the principal personage in this drama of woe2--and ,i will proceed to fix the reader's admiration of the character of that person1 to call forth his compassion for my sufferings1 and his indignation at the conduct of those medical men1 whom1 though ,i have described their conduct as it deserves1 ,i endeavour to pity and to pardon4 ,,footnotes3 #eg ,since there are improbabilities on both sides1 it is necessary to ask the duke himself4 #eh ,it remains to be known if ,england be really rich2 for me1 ,i believe that the thing represented is not equal in value to that which represents it4 #ei ,that is the fair side of the catholic religion2 it does not approve of revolutions4 #fj ,they are saints4 ,,chap4 ,,xiv4 ,during the forty months that ,i resided at ,avignon two capital executions only took place2 one at ,avignon1 which ,i did not witness1 and one at ,carpentras1 at which town1 on account of its being in the centre of the department1 the tribunals or assizes are held4 ,during the last year that ,i passed in ,lincolnshire four criminals were hanged4 ,lincolnshire is smaller and much less populous than the department of ,vaucluse4 ,the disproportion is enormous4 ,this subject has frequently been brought before the public1 and before the public ,i leave it4 ,in the second year of my sojourn1 a mission was preached at ,avignon4 ,on the expediency or prudence of these missions1 concerning which so much difference of opinion prevailed among the ,french themselves1 a stranger is hardly competent to decide4 ,many were offended that catholic ,france should be treated like a country that had never heard of the gospel2 but this view of the matter was formed rather on a strict and somewhat captious interpretation of the word mission1 than from any thing in the scheme itself justifying such an interpretation4 ,the gospel was not preached by the missionaries as new1 but as having been neglected4 ,yet this supposition of neglect threw a blame somewhere2 and these extraordinary means taken to repair it excited animosity4 ,six thousand parishes throughout ,france were said1 at this time1 to want pastors2 and it was regretted that funds should be diverted from the maintenance of the seminaries or their more effectual support1 to supply the expense of desultory efforts1 of evanescent enthusiasm4 ,on the other hand it was argued that1 for a quarter of a century1 religion had been discouraged2 for one year of that time it had been proscribed1 and the churches closed2 during all that time ,christian education had been notoriously neglected2 so many clergy had been banished1 that the remainder had been insufficient to the various functions required of them2 that to recover from such a state1 extraordinary remedies were called for4 ,after all1 there was nothing so very extraordinary in these missions3 from three to six priests1 men of some talent1 zeal1 and eloquence1 arrived in a town1 stayed there a greater or less number of days according to the population1 or1 it may be1 the spiritual wants of the place1 preached1 and heard confessions4 ,yet let any one suppose what would be the effect of the presence of half a dozen methodist teachers in any town in ,england1 and he will be able to form an idea of the state of ,avignon1 pending the mission which lasted1 as well as ,i can remember1 about a fortnight4 ,the churches were crowded2 those who wished to have seats to hear the sermon at six in the evening1 were obliged to take their places at mid-day2 these were chiefly women3 men1 who could bear the fatigue of standing during the sermon1 occupied every space large enough for a pair of feet4 ,the lessive1 so the washing is called from the wood ashes employed in it1 was neglected2 dirty shirts and sheets were too common to be complained of3 the men were obliged to cook their own dinners2 children were grouped together by scores under the care of some one contented or paid to stay at home4 ,then came the general confessions1 which occupied some days2 then one day for the communion of the male and another for that of the female penitents2 lastly1 the procession of the cross1 which was to be set up as a perpetual memorial of the mission1 and a mean of recalling to every one the good resolutions he had then made4 ,an ill-carved crucifix1 larger than life1 borne on the shoulders of the devout1 was followed by the missionaries and people singing cantiques1 and was finally placed on the terrace near the great door of the cathedral1 to which it gives the appearance of a place of public execution4 ,i venerate the images of ,christ and his saints2 they are1 as ,st4 ,austin calls them1 the books of the illiterate1 and they speak to the heart even of those who can read4 ,but they should be so made and so placed as to inspire1 not terror1 but sentiments of peace1 hope1 and gratitude4 ,the missionaries turned many from the evil of their ways3 some sums of money were deposited in their hands to be by them restored to those who had been robbed or defrauded of them2 these sums1 so unexpectedly recovered1 were in general given to the poor4 ,i have read an account of the conduct of these missionaries to the galeriens at ,toulon1 which was very interesting and edifying4 ,on leaving ,avignon they were accompanied for several miles by the people1 who1 by way of taking leave1 tore the cassock off the back of the chief missionary and divided it into shreds1 that all or as many as possible of their zealous admirers might have a relic4 ,in this procede there was a little too much of the fougue du midi1#fa and the missionary by no means liked the process of popular canonization4 ,how long the good effects of the mission may last is doubtful4 ,it seems as if it were necessary that some strong excitement should exist in order that religion should be present to the mind4 ,holy men create this excitement to themselves by the aid of divine grace1 and by prayer1 a powerful mode of self-persuasion3 for the multitude1 this excitement must be created for them4 ,i was assured by a very worthy and experienced cure1 who remained in ,france during the whole of the revolution1 that1 in the reign of terror1 when the churches were shut up1 many followed the clergy into caverns and hiding-places1 who afterwards could not be persuaded to go to church4 ,i formed an acquaintance with an old gentleman of eighty-five years of age1 who had served in the seven years war3 he had been present at the affair of ,st4 ,cas4 ,two brothers1 of a ,lincolnshire family1 every member of which ,i have always esteemed as a friend1 were officers in the regiments landed on this occasion4 ,i remember when a boy to have heard one of them relate how his brother called to him1 when they were both driven back into the sea1 to share a bottle of wine which chance had supplied4 ,they were waiting for the boat to take them to their ship3 there was no cork-screw2 he broke off the neck of the bottle with his sword4 ,it was pleasant to me1 at such a distance of time and place1 to meet with one whom this trifling anecdote could amuse4 ,he spoke with respect1 as does all the world1 of ,english valour1 but said1 no one could conceive why they disembarked their troops on the coast1 as it was utterly impossible for them to penetrate ten miles into the country3 in this he was in accord with the ,english public at that time4 ,he is dead2 the brothers are dead3 very few survive1 who fought in the war concluded by the peace of ,paris1 in #agfc4 ,i was also acquainted with two young men of celebrated names1 officers of a regiment in garrison at ,avignon4 ,one of them was grand nephew of that archbishop of ,marseilles1 whose conduct1 when the plague raged in that city1 in the year #agbj1 has ever been spoken of with justly-merited eulogium2 the other was grandson of the author of the ,esprit des ,lois4 ,this latter made me much ashamed1 not of my country1 she is too great for that2 but for my country4 ,talking of military discipline1 he said1 ,vos soldats sont des braves gens1#fb but you vippe dem2 you vippe dem4 ,i was1 as ,i have said1 ashamed1 and knew not what to answer1 but that such punishments were not so frequent since certain debates in the ,parliament4 ,den you vippe dem1 and forgetting the word sometimes1 quelquefois1 twirling his hand as if brandishing a cat-o-nine tails2 then added with a serious look1 quelquefois2 c'est trop4#fc ,sir ,francis ,burdett's endeavour to place the representation of the people in the ,commons ,house on a rational basis1 will meet with the fate of my proposal to establish the ,catholic religion in ,ireland2 but his efforts to rescue the soldier from a cruel and degrading punishment deserve the thanks of every friend of mankind4 ,he has relieved human nature from more suffering than a legislator who should abolish the question2 for there are1 or were1 more soldiers flogged than1 in any equal time1 state-prisoners tortured4 ,if the sentiment of reproach and contempt with which young ,montesquieu spoke of our military punishments1--a sentiment in which he is joined by every man of sense and honour throughout ,europe1--may contribute to abolish the odious practice1 he too may share in the praise of the legislateur du genre humain4#fd ,the great object of all legislation is to prevent evil1 injustice1 and misery4 ,alas6 ,alas6 ,how much does it itself inflict6 ,an election of a deputy to the chamber was held while ,i was at ,avignon4 ,of this election ,i can give but a negative account4 ,there was no ringing of bells2 no flags displayed2 no parading the streets by day-light or torch-light2 no canvassing2 no kissing the women2 no rioting2 no drunkenness4 ,the town was as quiet as if no election had been going on4 ,the number of electors for the department was about six hundred4 ,what influenced their votes ,i cannot say2 certainly not those glorious concomitants of an ,english election in all towns large enough to enjoy them1--festive noise and indecent tumult4 ,in the spring of the year #ahbj1 my elder son set off for ,england1 which was to him an unknown land1 as he had been immured in college from his thirteenth year1 and with which he was anxious to become acquainted4 ,at his departure1 he asked and received on his bended knee the blessing of his parents4 ,this may seem strange to some2 yet ,sir ,thomas ,more1 when ,chancellor of ,england1 began the day by kneeling at the bed-side of his aged father1 to implore1 through him1 the blessing of ,god1 and then went and served at mass in his own chapel4 ,sir ,thomas ,more was a wise and amiable man1 whose life and death are beyond all praise4 ,the act of submission above-mentioned might1 however1 for reasons that may easily be divined1 be more laudable in a young man of nineteen1 than in a ,lord ,high ,chancellor of ,england4 ,besides other considerations1 the one acted in conformity1 the other in contradiction1 to the spirit of his age4 ,from ,lyons1 where he passed two days1 ,kenelm took the road to ,paris by ,moulins1 in order to see a different country from that by which he had come to ,avignon4 ,he passed five days in ,paris1 three of which he dedicated to the ,museum of the ,louvre1 which he now saw with advantage1 derived from the progress he had made in drawing4 ,he spent ten days in ,london4 ,a friend who had known him two years before in ,paris1 good-naturedly bore testimony to the improvement which two years had produced3 ,you were then a great boy2 you are now a fine young fellow4 ,he passed also ten days1 at ,bath1 at the house of his mother's sister4 ,i know not whether it may have been remarked that1 in my chapter of ,paris1 ,i have said not a word of the theatres4 ,the fact is1 we never once were present at any of them4 ,the opinion of ,catholics as to the lawfulness of attending the theatrical representations of the present day1 is by no means uniform4 ,the ,english ,catholic clergy in general advise to abstain from them3 the pious and excellent priest at ,paris1 to whose counsels ,kenelm owed so much1 gave the same injunction4 ,our kind and prudent director at ,avignon rather requested than required us to abstain from attending the theatre at that place4 ,it is no great loss1 considering the merit of the performance3 when you shall be in ,italy1 ,i give you up to my successor4 ,kenelm1 on this journey1 made some stay in ,paris1 ,london1 and ,bath1 without going to a theatre4 ,this must be considered as no slight sacrifice for a young man of nineteen2 master1 for the time1 of his own actions2 solicited by his curiosity and by the invitations of friends1 who regarded the stage as a source of innocent amusement1 and even of instruction4 ,following the lights1 such as they were1 of my own common sense1 ,i had occasionally1 even after becoming a ,catholic1 assisted at theatrical representations both in ,bath and ,london1 when the inducement was in accord with good taste and good morals4 ,i could see no harm in allowing those purifiers of the affections1 terror and pity1 to be administered by those masters of the scenic art1 ,kemble and ,siddons4 ,there were others1 second to these1 but of great merit1 whom ,i saw with pleasure3 amongst them ,cooke1 when he was sober2 ,elliston1 at all times4 ,arrived in ,france1 ,i refrained from going to the theatre as the safer line of conduct1 seeing ,i was now no longer alone4 ,besides1 ,i was told that comedians1 so they call all actors1 were in a state of excommunication2 that they could not accomplish the sacrament of penance without promising to renounce their profession2 and that if they died comedians1 their right to ,christian burial was at least disputable4 ,i cited the example of the capital of the ,christian world4 ,in ,rome itself there are theatres4 ,the holy ,father is under the necessity of permitting1 as sovereign1 what1 as head of the church1 he condemns4 ,this reminded me of ,sir ,jonathan ,trelawney1 sometime ,bishop of ,winchester1 who was much given1 according to the custom of his time1 to profane cursing and swearing--a custom which he adopted perhaps to show that he was no puritan1 as men neglected days of fasting and abstinence to prove that they were no papists4 ,this reverend prelate being reproved for this mal-practice1 declared that he swore as ,sir ,jonathan ,trelawney1 not as ,bishop of ,winchester4 ,he was asked how he would hereafter make a distinction in his personal identity1 or divide what ,sir ,kenelm ,digby calls a man's numerical self2--a phrase which my friend ,sir ---- was so good as to translate for me into number one4 ,in fact1 the argument drawn from the double character of the ,pope to justify the permission of what was bad in itself1 excited my indignation4 ,the ,pope1 said ,i1 is no hypocrite4 ,true3 the ,pope is no hypocrite2 but sovereigns are in some cases obliged to permit evils which they palliate and diminish by superintendence and regulation4 ,i understood the allusion1 but felt a strong repugnance to class actors1 many of them persons of exemplary morals1 and none of them necessarily otherwise1 with those unfortunate outcasts1 so well watched in ,france and ,italy1 and so piously allowed to roam at large in ,london3 neither could ,i be all at once persuaded that stage-plays were of the nature of a violation of one of the ten commandments4 ,i alleged the example of all1 or almost all the ,catholic sovereigns of ,europe1 who assisted at them without scruple4 ,i was answered1 that the example of sovereigns could not justify what was wrong in itself4 ,the great ,bossuet was quoted1 who replied to ,louis ,,xiv41 by whom his opinion was asked on the lawfulness of stage plays which the monarch himself frequented1 ,sire1 il y a de grands exemples pour1 et de grandes autorites contre4#fe ,reste a savoir1 said ,i to myself1 with the disputant at ,nismes4 ,the question did not press3 we abstained from plays in ,france4 ,i resolved1 if possible1 to reconcile these contradictions in ,italy4 ,in ,italy ,i was instructed1 that there exists no excommunication of actors by the universal church1 but only by the decrees of some particular dioceses1 in remote ages1 when the scenic art was reputed infamous on account of the representations1 then almost always contrary to good morals3 that they who exercise the profession of actors are guilty of great sin1 if they exhibit on the stage any thing shameful or obscene1 but not otherwise3 that there exist indeed sentences of the holy see and of general councils against scenic representations1 but that they refer always to such as may be indecent and contrary to sound morality3 that the ,fathers condemn the theatres of their time1 not only because of the indecencies there represented1 but also because1 as the pagans acted plays in honour of their false gods1 the ,christians could not assist at them without the stain of idolatry3 that a decent play cannot be called absolutely a proximate occasion of sin1 but may become such relatively to certain individuals on account of their personal fragility2 and that such1 admonished by their own experience1 are bound to fly a danger which1 though it may be remote to others1 is to them proximate3 finally1 that there cannot be any positive judgment nor any fixed or constant rule respecting theatres2 since the lawfulness or unlawfulness of them may vary at every moment1 according as scenic representations are agreeable or repugnant to good morals4 ,priests go to plays in ,italy1 generally retiring before the ballet4 ,i have seen a cardinal at a private theatre3 that it was a private theatre1 was a circumstance of some importance in point of decorum1 but of none in point of morality1 concerning which it is fair to presume that his eminence entertained no doubt or scruple4 ,kenelm1 however1 abstained all his life from going to the theatre3 in this he acted according to the information which his conscience had received4 ,conscience is not the rule of action3 the rule is ,,the ,,law divine or human2 conscience is the measure which each individual applies1 first to the rule1 then to his own actions4 ,he who does a bad action1 thinking it a good one1 is not excused2 it is his duty to inform his conscience3 he who abstains from that which is innocent because he thinks it wrong1 has merit in conforming his actions to his sense of duty1 as well as he who1 from a motive of duty1 performs an action in itself indifferent4 ,kenelm proceeded from ,bath to the country-house of his mother's father in ,somersetshire1 where he passed three or four months1 making short excursions and visits in the neighbourhood4 ,towards the end of ,september he returned to ,bath1 his native place1 visited ,bristol and the shores of the ,severn4 ,he then went through the midland counties into ,lincolnshire1 where his family1 originally from ,yorkshire1 had been settled for four generations4 ,here visits and business detained him some time3 he returned to ,london3 the theatres were again opened2 but not for him4 ,during his former stay in ,london he had received the sacrament of confirmation on the feast of ,pentecost3 he wrote to me1 that that day had been the happiest of his life4 ,on this occasion he took the name of ,aloysius or ,st4 ,lewis of ,gonzaga1 whom a conformity of character seems to have induced him to regard with peculiar sympathy4 ,is it fanaticism or imbecility to hope and believe1 as ,i sincerely believe1 that these two happy souls1 after their short trial1 now enjoy the society and converse of each other in a state of unchangeable felicity8 ,after a short visit in the neighbourhood of ,southampton1 ,kenelm once more embarked at that port and returned to ,france4 ,he was desirous of following a route1 not unusual with ,english tourists1 by ,orleans1 ,bordeaux1 and the line of the ,garonne1 to ,avignon2 but the season was too late3 in truth he complained that he suffered from cold in his journey from ,paris4 ,his family had the satisfaction of receiving him again on the eleventh of ,november4 ,the judgment formed of him by those who became acquainted with him during his stay in ,england1 may be known by the following extract from a letter written by his mother within a short time after his death1 that is1 within a twelvemonth after his return to ,france4 ,your son was perfect1 as far as human nature can be so3 so much self-denial1 tenderness to the feelings of others1 such strict attention to his religious duties1 whatever pleasures might be offered him1 ,i never met with in any character2 and in so young a man1 at a distance from all who had a right to control him1 it was most extraordinary1 and bespoke a mind whose every feeling was governed by religion4 ,could you have heard the general regret for his loss1 and the remarks made on his conduct and manners by all who knew him1 you would have been gratified2 but you have a higher source of comfort1 c4 ,i will cite another testimony2 that of the priest who was his director during his visit to his native land3--,i was much affected by the news of the death of the amiable ,henry ,kenelm2 and yet ,i cannot but regard it as a great mercy in ,almighty ,god to snatch him in his innocence from the horrid corruptions and impieties of the world4 ,now he is gone1 it is not unlawful for me to say that ,i thought him one of the most innocent1 watchful1 and mortified souls ,i had ever met with of his age4 ,on the morrow of his return he began a drawing of an infant ,jesus from an engraving of a picture by ,raphael in the ,palazzo ,pitti3 it was to be finished in the ,french style1 with much exactness and labour4 ,he said1 the infant shall be ready for his birth-day2 and in effect he concluded his work on ,christmas eve4 ,i saw the features of this infant ,jesus with an astonishment1 the motive of which ,i explained to ,kenelm2 it is not yet time to reveal it to the reader4 ,this winter ,kenelm took lessons in fencing1 and1 after having acquired some skill in the noble science of defence1 he engaged a sous-officier to come daily to the house to teach him the manual exercise4 ,he had learned dancing in his college1 where masters attended for that purpose4 ,during his first winter at ,avignon he refused to take dancing lessons1 from scruples suggested to him by a devout person1 who also endeavoured to engage me to forbid my children to learn to dance1 supporting his opinion of its unlawfulness by the usual topics4 ,i replied1 ,i should be ashamed for my children1 if ,i thought they could not dance without finding in it a proximate occasion of sin3 the thing is innocent in itself2 let those who find it1 or make it otherwise1 avoid it4 ,in his second winter ,kenelm surmounted the scruples of our devout friend1 and resumed his dancing lessons1 and now continued them1 not so much out of a desire to perfect himself1 as for the sake of joining in the amusement of the family party4 ,the summer which ,kenelm passed in ,england had been excessively hot in the south of ,france4 ,i was in the habit of observing my thermometer at midnight1 and1 during ,july and ,august1 usually found it1 at that hour1 at #hd ,fahrenheit4 ,the autumn was very mild3 we were to give a ball on new year's day1 and there was no ice in the town1 as the master of the cafe1 who was to furnish ice creams1 announced to me in a tone of due despondency4 ,he proposed to send a cart to ,mont ,ventoo1 a lofty and remarkable mountain fifteen miles off1 where there was ice at all times2 this carriage would cost thirty francs4 ,i asked him if he would bear a part of the expense1 as the ice would be of use to him for his other customers4 ,he said1 if it should freeze1 his share of the load would become useless2 moreover that1 if there should be ice of the thickness of a ten-sous piece1 that would be enough for my purpose4 ,that very night1 the last of the year #ahbj1 a frost set in1 so severe1 that almost all the olive-trees of ,provence and of the east of ,languedoc were destroyed to the root4 ,the preceding open weather had sustained the sap2 so that this sudden and violent check was fatal4 ,it was a great calamity3 the government came in aid of the more indigent of the sufferers2 but four years must pass ere the olive-trees could be in full bearing as before4 ,besides the fatness of the olive1 they reckon in this country four other recoltes or harvests3 the hay of the artificial grasses1 of which lucerne is the chief2 with this hay they fatten cattle and make a great deal of manure3 indeed ,i saw at ,avignon a symptom of covetousness of dung1 much to the credit of their agricultural management2 those who sweep the streets bring straw1 cut into little bits about three inches long1 which they throw into the kennels and dirty puddles to suck up the fertilizing moisture4 ,manure must be in great demand1 and an article of the first necessity in a country1 where1 besides extensive gardens1 they intercule1 after the wheat1 reaped usually at the end of ,june1 a crop of haricots or ,french beans1--a standing dish1 during the winter1 at all tables4 ,i remembered at how high a price ,i had formerly bought a few of these beans for seed1 that ,i might have this vegetable1 young and green1 as a side-dish or in pickle3 yet these haricots secs1 or the dried grain of the ,french bean1 is the cheapest food at ,avignon1 cheaper even than bread2 and it was without cause that ,i was alarmed at my own extravagance1 when ,i saw them spread in such abundance on the table in my kitchen4 ,garrence1 or madder1 is another recolte1 and a source of great wealth4 ,add to these harvests1 their wine1 which1 by the help of the climate and good manipulation1 is1 in my opinion1 the best in the world1 except perhaps that of ,xeres and ,madeira4 ,melons and pastecs1 or water-melons1 are here delicious1 and the food of the common people4 ,bread is excellent1 light1 white1 and nutritious2 many degrees whiter than that which ,i made of my own wheat in ,england1 though not so white nor so quickly dry and tasteless as the adulterated bread of ,london4 ,i consider ,french agriculture1 as far as ,i was able to observe it in the south1 to be in a flourishing condition4 ,they have not the grand cultivation3 the subdivision of property and the nature of the products forbid it4 ,they have no expensive plans ,for deluging their dripping-pans4 ,they would regard almost as thrown away1 a rich plot of land given up to the fattening sheep and bullocks4 ,in the southern moiety of ,france1 indeed1 they have no choice3 there are water meadows1 where irrigation is possible1 but no pastures4 ,their cattle are fed on the mountains and hills and poorest lands1 during summer1 and brought home in winter4 ,the end of agriculture is to obtain the greatest value of produce from land at the least expense1 and that for ever2 and in this end the ,french1 the spirit of calculation coming in aid of their soil and climate1 succeed in a great degree4 ,the chattels 7the word is ,french71 the stock1 both live and dead1 belongs to the proprietor2 he superintends2 the land is not worse managed on that account4 ,indeed1 as ,pythagoras or ,plato said1 that states would never be well governed1 till philosophers were kings or kings were philosophers2 so it may be said1 that land will never be well cultivated1 till proprietors shall be farmers or farmers shall be proprietors3 their interests are opposite1 and not to be reconciled by leases or conditions of obligation2 one desires immediate1 the other continued1 profit3 but the interest that a ,french proprietor has in his share of the produce1 is not great enough to induce him to diminish his capital by deteriorating the land1 which the tenant always will do if he can3 even the materiel of the farm1 no unimportant part of its value1 is better cared for by the landlord than by a tenant4 ,in short1 ,france1 in the southern part of it1 is rapidly advancing towards garden culture1 the perfection of all cultivation2 since the more a farm is cultivated like a garden1 the more will the management of it be applauded1 and the greater will be its produce in proportion to its extent4 ,the spade and hoe are very much used in fields1 especially where1 as is often the case1 these fields are traversed by rows of mulberry or other trees2 and the vines trimmed into the form of bushes1 and the garence1 and haricots1 and lucerne in rows and drills1 and the slight fences1 occupying the least possible space1 and set rather as limits than as guards1 give1 to a rich tract1 as much of the appearance as it really has of the nature of a garden4 ,the silk-worm1 though silk is a most valuable recolte of this country1 has no connexion with agriculture1 except that this worm feeds on the leaves of the mulberry tree4 ,these leaves are plucked as soon as they have attained their full spread1 and before they are at all dried or even hardened by the sun4 ,while nature is preparing the food of the silk-worm1 art is forcing into existence the worm itself4 ,the eggs are hatched by artificial warmth1 and1 from the time that the worm can eat till it becomes a cocon1 this savoury food is administered4 ,the mulberry is of the white sort2 but the fruit is hardly known to the ,avignonais2 it is of course destroyed by plucking off the leaves4 ,i surprised my friends by telling them ,i had eaten excellent black mulberries in ,england1 and1 as is usual in such cases1 they gave no credence to my word4 ,these trees look very miserable without leaves under so fine a sky3 by the end of summer a second crop of leaves is plucked off1 and given to cattle4 ,it was pleasing to me1 as carrying memory back into former ages1 to see the threshing-floors of the ,avignonais3 they are on the outside of the building that serves for the granary3 the sheaves are laid in a circle1 in the centre of which stands a man who drives two or more horses round1 over the ears of corn3 another man stands without the circle to correct any irregularities in the work4 ,the moral meaning of the command1 not to muzzle the ox that treadeth out the corn1 is evident2 and it is to be hoped that1 in practice1 it was interpreted according to its moral meaning3 otherwise the work would not have proceeded very quickly1 and would soon have been stopped altogether by the strangulation of the beast4 ,they built1 while ,i was at ,avignon1 a very good abattoir near one of the gates of the town4 ,i saw here the process of skinning an ox3 air is thrown in under the skin by a pair of bellows1 which air is then forced forward by beating the inflated hide with clubs4 ,a beast1 whose turn it was to be killed next1 was standing by with his nose fastened to a ring in the floor4 ,how far did his intelligence enable him to presage the fate that awaited him8 ,french agriculture has made rapid strides within twenty years3 they procure and disperse improved machinery3 in the breed of their sheep they pay attention to the quality of the fleece4 ,they call the ,english their masters in the science of agriculture1 but entertain confidence1 ,i hope well-founded1 of soon equalling those masters4 ,,footnotes3 #fa ,the impetuosity of the south4 #fb ,your soldiers are brave people1 but you whip them4 #fc ,sometimes--that is too much4 #fd ,legislator of the human race4 #fe ,sire1 there are great examples for1 and great authorities against4 ,,chap4 ,,xv4 ,there was a very great difference in the ages of my elder and younger children2 it was impossible for me to suit my plan to them all3 for the sake of the younger it would have been advisable to stay some time longer in ,france2 but for the advantage of the elder ,i thought it right to hasten my journey to ,italy4 ,i fixed the time of my departure from ,avignon for the month of ,october following1 #ahba4 ,no master of the ,italian language was here to be found4 ,kenelm soon acquired the use of it1 as far as books1 without conversation1 could teach him2 and1 in the evenings of the spring and summer1 after our promenade1 gave lessons to his sisters and brother1 whom he required to prepare themselves in the morning3 he also gave them lectures in geography4 ,in this employment he gratified his kind affections1 and derived pleasure from the performance of what he imposed on himself as a duty4 ,in truth his whole life seemed to be regulated by a sense of duty3 he endeavoured to please others from a principle of benevolence3 in speaking of others he was careful to avoid all censure or rash judgment1 all contemptuous or angry expressions2 he followed after that charity1 which beareth all things1 hopeth all things2 it was evident that1 without excluding the innocent and laudable motives of action1 he endeavoured to sanctify all he did by referring it to the glory of the ,author of all good4 ,his mind had been cultivated as far as his years and opportunities had allowed4 ,the love of ,god had supplied to him the principle of true sensibility1 and his judgment of moral objects was correct and delicate4 ,his reading had been chiefly of ,french literature and of history4 ,in ,england he had passed much of his time in society and other engagements1 and he had not had leisure for reading3 he regretted that he could not stay another twelvemonth there for the purpose of going through a course of ,english literature4 ,i had always encouraged him to discuss with me whatever questions arose1 to enter into argument and try the ground of his opinions3 in criticism1 in politics1 in religion even1 he had followed this method4 ,i held it useful thus to call forth and exercise his powers2 ,i wished to establish his judgment on a surer basis than that which can be laid by authority alone2 a basis so liable to be shaken1 so likely to be removed by an intercourse with the world1 which surprises1 enchants1 and often fatally deceives those who are unprepared for it4 ,i was conversing one day with him and his brother on the subject of the massacre at ,thessalonica1 in the reign of the emperor ,theodosius1--and of the father who1 being arrested with his two sons going out of the amphitheatre1 entreated the soldiers1 who were about to put them both to death1 at least to spare him one of them2 the soldiers consented1 leaving the choice to the father3 he1 in an agony of grief1 ran from one son to the other1 unable to resign either of them3 the soldiers1 becoming impatient1 at length slew them both4 ,kenelm's remark was1 the father was more happy afterwards than he would have been had he decided4 ,if he had saved one son1 he would have continually reproached himself1 during the rest of his life1 with the death of the other4 ,within a few short months ,i was myself to witness the death of one son1 and to pass some weeks in dreadful suspense as to the fate of the son that remained to me4 ,the ,father of ,mercies inflicted not on me the horrible necessity of choosing between them4 ,he spared one1 to alleviate and repair the loss of him whom he took to himself4 ,if ,i seem to any to have dwelt too long on the praise of ,kenelm1 let this be allowed to the remembrance of his kind1 confiding1 and grateful affection to me1 his gentle and amiable manners towards the rest of his family1 the well-grounded hope of virtuous and meritorious conduct in his passage through life4 ,all this is now only in remembrance2 but the remembrance is sweet4 ,i had said to ,kenelm on his return from ,england1 ,you have behaved in such a manner during the time that you have been your own master1 that ,i may now trust that your character and principles are fixed and established3 you have acquired an entire right to my confidence4 ,the trial of the ground of this confidence was short1 and1 towards the end1 most painful2 but it was conclusive and satisfactory4 ,in the spring of #ahba1 arrived the news of the beginning and end of what was called for a time the revolution of ,piedmont1 and of the insurrection of the garrison of ,alexandria4 ,the difficulty of obtaining protection or employment in diplomacy1 the career to which1 in his own purpose1 he had destined himself1 and to which he had in some degree directed his studies1 offered itself at this time so forcibly to the mind of ,kenelm1 that he inclined to enter into the military profession4 ,he said1 ,the ,king of ,sardinia must1 at this time1 want soldiers4 ,i will go to him at ,nice3 ,i shall see you all again in your way to ,italy4 ,he added1 ,i cannot choose the ,french service1 as ,i should run the risk of being employed against my own country3 a great variety of circumstances shows that the ,english service must be at least unpleasant to a catholic3 there remain only ,austria and ,sardinia4 ,on inquiry1 however1 we found that no commission was granted in the army of this latter power1 unless to those who had been educated in the military academy1 or who had served four years in the ranks as private soldiers4 ,kenelm retained the purpose of making inquiries concerning the ,austrian service when he should arrive in ,italy4 ,austria1 though now removed to a distance from ,england by the cession of the ,low ,countries1 had been for more than a century its almost constant ally4 ,i was not sorry that inquiries1 and any measures to be adopted in consequence1 were delayed for some time1 and advised that the interval should be employed in reflecting how far the military profession might suit a character of great vivacity indeed1 but thoughtful and given to literary pursuits4 ,i could account for this sudden ebullition of ,kenelm's warlike ardour1 only by the delight which he took in reading the ,victoires et ,conquetes1 which publication began about this time2 and by his intercourse with some of the officers in garrison4 ,he asserted too that the trade of a soldier is the most independent of any1 and brought in defence of his assertion some very specious arguments4 ,his ardour1 though restrained1 was by no means extinguished3 he was steady to his purpose1 and never relinquished it4 ,in the month of ,july a fair is held at ,beaucaire1 on the ,rhone1 a small town twelve miles from ,avignon1 opposite ,tarrascon4 ,this is one of the few fairs in ,europe that are still the scene of great commercial operations2 commis1 travellers1 and the post office are rapidly causing the disparition of less convenient institutions4 ,to ,beaucaire1 however1 as yet1 resort merchants from ,germany1 ,italy1 and ,spain2 and to ,beaucaire also resort the idle and curious of the district for many leagues around4 ,the ,avignonais wondered that we could pass two summers without visiting it2 and1 as ,i could now no longer say ,i will go next year1 ,i was obliged to avow that my real reason for absenting myself from a scene which they thought so interesting1 was my unwillingness to subject any of the females of my family to the inconvenience of finding1 or1 what would have been worse1 not finding beds in so crowded a town2 and to stay all night was indispensable1 as the finest sight of all was the illumination of the streets of booths erected as a supplement to the insufficient buildings of the town4 ,one friend proposed to me his example4 ,he had left ,avignon1 with ladies in company of course1 three hours before sunset2 arrived at ,beaucaire in time to lead his ladies about1 both by owls-light and lamp-light2 supped in a room which1 he allowed1 had not the recommendation of being either retired1 or cleanly1 or free from the fumes of tobacco2 and brought his ladies home again at three in the morning4 ,men are but children of a larger growth1 said some one without suspecting that he was launching any thing but a sarcasm3 it is however a profound reflection4 ,children must be amused because they cannot know any thing of the world into which they are about to enter2 and men must be amused on account of their unwillingness to think of a future state of existence4 ,the childish mortal is however less silly than the manly mortal immortal4 ,i recommended to my sons to visit ,arles1 taking ,beaucaire in their way at the time of the fair1 at which they might stay as long as they pleased1 and no longer4 ,they got into a boat early in the morning1 and descended the ,rhone as far as ,tarrascon2 passed four hours1 including repast and repose1 at the fair2 then again took to their boat1 which conveyed them to the ancient and once important city of ,arles4 ,from ,avignon to ,tarrascon they found the banks of the ,rhone varied and picturesque3 lower down1 the river displays a great spread of water1 but its shores are flat4 ,they slept at ,arles1 viewed its ancient monuments1 obelisk1 amphitheatre1 sarcophagi1 and walked to ,st4 ,remy4 ,in the evening of the next day they returned home1 and regaled us with a pleasant account of their voyage par mer et par terre4#ff ,they were particularly pleased with ,st4 ,remy1 and we resolved on a family party to that place3 the excursion was1 however1 deferred for a month1 on account of a visit to a friend's campagne or country house4 ,st4 ,remy is four leagues from ,avignon3 at the end of the second mile1 we crossed by a ferry the ,durance1 a mighty ,alpine torrent4 ,i had before observed that its waters are colder and more turbid than those of the ,rhone at the point of their confluence4 ,the ,rhone deposits in the ,leman ,lake a part of the soil it brings with it in its course through the ,valais4 ,the ,durance is so impetuous1 that its bridge on the road to ,marseilles is almost always insecure4 ,a company of ,dutchmen undertook to confine this river to a certain bed by embanking1 on condition of receiving all the land they should recover3 but though they could1 no doubt1 deal very well with placid and stagnant canals1 they found the ,durance so impatient of dykes1 as the ,araxes was indignant at a bridge1 that they abandoned the enterprise4 ,my sons1 who were our stewards and ciceroni1 had ordered a basket of provisions to be brought by the carriage1 that we might dine au frais near the monuments1 the objects of our visit4 ,we took cafe au lait1 however1 on arriving at the village1 supplying the place of milk by beating the yolks of fresh eggs into a liquid foam here called lait de poule1 and well known as a substitute for an article1 the want of which is not much felt by those who are used to be without it4 ,we had no butter3 beurre frais de ,lyon is sent down the ,rhone to ,avignon1 and sometimes contains maggots4 ,i paid ten sous a day for a small quantity of beurre du jour made on purpose for our family breakfast1--the only demand for it in all the town4 ,the want of butter1 and the scarcity of our four pleasant early fruits1 gooseberries1 currants1 raspberries1 and strawberries1 a rare and short-lived luxury in the south of ,france1--are great privations2 and this must be added to the inconveniences of a hot climate4 ,even cherries quickly become uneatable1 breeding worms within them as soon as ripe4 ,we walked to the ,mausoleum and triumphal arch at half a league's distance4 ,they are situate near the side of the road now leading from ,nismes to ,marseilles1 which probably1 at the time even of the erection of these monuments1 led from one to the other of these ancient cities4 ,we had risen by a very slight ascent to a great height1 and now enjoyed a fine prospect all around1 except that1 for about one fourth of the horizon1 the view was bounded by a range of rocks of most curious and fantastic forms4 ,not far from the foot of this range1 and very near to each other1 are placed the arch and ,mausoleum4 ,the arch itself and all below it1 is still perfect2 but all above it has been pulled down and carried away3 the vault of the arch is highly ornamented4 ,the ,mausoleum is a most elegant structure4 ,if ,i say that it resembles a detached campanile of a church of ,grecian architecture1 it is more for the sake of indicating its form1 than from having seen any thing in that kind resembling or equal to it4 ,on a lofty basement rises a square building surmounted by a circular colonnade1 of the ,corinthian order1 supporting a dome or cupola4 ,at the four corners of the square building are ,corinthian pillars2 on each side1 the wall is pierced by an arch1 and1 on the frieze above1 is the inscription ,sex4 ,m4 ,julii ,c4 ,f4 parentibus suis4 ,in the centre under the cupola stand two statues3 there is no door or opening below4 ,my sons amused themselves with taking drawings of the objects before them4 ,the air1 notwithstanding the season of the year1 was cool and fresh at the elevation at which we were placed2 and we took our dinner under the arch1 having brought from the cafe of ,st4 ,remy some beer1 which1 in the spirit of contradiction1 is much liked in this country of the vine4 ,i thought it vile stuff1 and preferred our wine from ,avignon3 those of my children who had not tasted or forgotten the taste of home-brewed1 thought it a luxury3 it is rather dearer than wine1 being1 very justly1 equally taxed4 ,it is called biere de ,mars2--a proof that the right season is known for corrupting barley into a certain similitude of wine4 ,caesar's word corruptum ought to be translated fermented1 but it is happily ambiguous4 ,my servant told me that while he was waiting with the basket of provisions for our coming from the village1 a gentleman1 whom he took for ,english1 followed by his groom1 came up to the monuments1 walked his horse once quietly round them1 looked at him1 ,antoine1 without saying a word1 and then rode away4 ,there is not a single house near these edifices except a ,maison des ,fous1 an extensive establishment1 and celebrated for good management4 ,i visited a house of this sort at ,avignon1 where the patients seemed to have every comfort their situation permitted4 ,several of them were amusing themselves in the large court3 we passed by them in going out4 ,one of them addressed himself to the gentleman who accompanied me3 ,sir1 ,i entreat you to interest yourself for me2 it is horrible for me to live amongst these unhappy mad people4 ,you see ,i am not mad2 ,i am placed here by my relations that they may keep possession of a little estate that belongs to me4 ,my friend asked1 ,why do you not speak to the administrators8--,i have done so often1 but all to no purpose2 ce sont des ours4#fg ,i do not know the end of the affair4 ,we returned in the cool of the evening4 ,on repassing the ferry1 ,i did not get into the carriage again1 but walked with my sons to the town4 ,the carriage had some difficulty in passing the gate1 owing to a piece of cheese and some other remains of our dinner1 which the gate-keeper perceived at the bottom of the basket4 ,antoine laughed at him3 ,c'est mon souper3#fh but it was no laughing matter2 it was a question of the droits reunis4 ,the coachman explained that the provisions had been taken out of the town in the morning1 and the carriage passed on4 ,we were much pleased with our excursion1 and ,i promised my family to take them to ,nismes before we should set off for ,italy2 but we had found the day1 #ahth of ,august1 too hot1 and determined to wait till the weather should be somewhat cooler4 ,,footnotes3 #ff ,voyage by sea and land4 #fg ,they are bears4 #fh ,it is my supper4 ,,chap4 ,,xvi4 ,saturday1 the twenty-fifth of ,august1 the fete of the king was celebrated with sports and rejoicings4 ,a joute d'eau was held on the ,rhone2 that is to say--two boats row as fast as possible in opposite directions bearing each of them a man1 standing on the prow1 armed with a long pole4 ,at the moment that the boats pass by each other1 each of the two men strives to push the other with his pole into the water4 ,if both parties fail1 the assistants are1 for that time1 disappointed2 if one of the two tumbles in1 they laugh and are delighted4 ,sometimes it happens1 from the unsteadiness of their position and the effort which each makes to overturn the other1 that both fall in1 and1 in that case1 the joy of the standers and sitters-by is increased1 as ,malthus would say1 not in an arithmetical1 but in a geometrical proportion3 it is not merely doubled2 it is augmented a hundred-fold4 ,flags1 and bells1 and music1 and the presence of the authorities and of a vast concourse of spectators1 leave not the least doubt in the mind of any one but that he has been well amused4 ,in the evening there was a ball at the prefecture4 ,being somewhat indisposed1 ,i did not stir out on this day4 ,kenelm had for some time past complained of languor and want of appetite1 which he attributed to the heat of the summer4 ,at ,st4 ,remy he had been in excellent spirits1 passing on before us to hinder us from seeing the monuments till arrived at the right point of view2 and1 on the fete of ,st4 ,louis1 he had been gay with the gay4 ,no symptom of illness appeared till the following evening at the house of the general commanding the department2 he then complained to me of a sensation of cold4 ,i desired him to remove from the open window2 he soon felt himself better1 and joined in the dance with which the party concluded4 ,this visit is to be remarked as the last he made4 ,during the three following days he was tolerably well1 and1 on the alternate days1 took his bath in the ,rhone1 as it had been his custom to do during the summer1 in a retired place at a small distance from the town4 ,while bathing the last time1 he cried out to his brother1 ,my pulse is gone4 ,a sensation of cold had induced him to feel his pulse1 and he was somewhat alarmed at this symptom of its intermission4 ,he appeared to wish to make light of it when he came home1 but it must be supposed that his own feelings made him apprehensive of illness4 ,afterwards it became evident that the predisposition to the fever1 of which the chilliness three evenings before had been a symptom1 had again manifested itself by this intermission of the pulse4 ,he now reposed in me a confidence1 the purport of which ought perhaps to be numbered among the symptoms of the coming malady1 though ,i was as yet unable to account for it in this way4 ,he said his scruples1 such as he had combated and surmounted three years before1 had returned and had distressed him of late1 beginning from a time to which he referred2 since which time1 and1 as he believed1 from the efforts he had made1 he had suffered from a head-ache and pains in his chest and limbs4 ,not aware that an illness was at hand which would account for the sensations of which he complained without reference to any mental uneasiness1 ,i endeavoured by reproaches and praises to restore his tranquillity4 ,you are indebted for your head-ache and other pains to allowing your mind to dwell on useless and groundless apprehensions4 ,cheerfulness1 hope1 and gaiety are the best things in the world to make the blood circulate and distribute equally the animal heat4 ,enough has been said to you on the subject of scruples1 and you have admitted the reasonableness of what has been said3 ,i had hoped they were gone for ever4 ,you are a great comfort and blessing to me3 be satisfied with yourself4 ,you were at confession and communion five days ago3 has any thing occurred since1 on which you would consult your director8 ,he replied1 ,no1 nothing4 ,this we afterwards remembered with great comfort4 ,in the evening we went to the promenade1 and walked till it was dark4 ,i then asked if he would go home and play a game at chess3 he said playfully1 ,yes1 if you will let me rest my head on my hands1 and stick up my shoulders4 ,this posture he had been used to take sometimes in the study-room in college1 where it was permitted1 being neither a mortal sin nor false grammar3 of course he had since avoided and corrected the habit4 ,the next day the annual distribution of prizes took place at the ,royal ,college4 ,this scene had some attraction for ,kenelm as reminding him of ,stoneyhurst4 ,he did not stay to the end of the ceremony1 complaining of a sense of fatigue4 ,in the evening he walked out again for the last time3 we stopt to listen to some music on the walk1 when ,i observed that he was excessively chill4 ,he said to his mother1 ,i hope my father will be satisfied with my obedience2 ,i have dragged myself along1 cold and tired4 ,i had urged him to walk1 in the hope of diverting him4 ,we went home2 there was no question of chess2 he retired early to rest4 ,the day following1 the last of the month of ,august1 he appeared to be well1 and recovered from all sense of fatigue3 he announced his intention of bathing in the ,rhone as usual4 ,i requested him to give it up1 till it should be seen whether the chilliness1 that seemed to renew its attacks like the fits of an ague1 should again come upon him4 ,to this he assented4 ,he took his lesson of drawing without complaint2 but1 almost immediately after the departure of the master1 was seized with a violent shivering3 he put on a great coat2 then wrapped himself in blankets1 lying on the sofa4 ,the sense of cold still continuing1 he took soup1 and afterwards tea4 ,towards evening he desired to have his bed brought down from his chamber1 and placed in the inner salon3 this was done4 ,he soon broke out into a violent perspiration4 ,nothing more was apprehended1 than that he had taken cold at his last bathing in the ,rhone4 ,his malady was however the dreadful typhus1 so fatal in crowded hospitals1 in camps and prisons4 ,to an insulated patient1 well taken care of1 the danger is much diminished2 and1 but for error1 and worse than error1 of the medical men who attended1 my elder son had probably not fallen a victim to it1 and the younger would have been kept out of the way of contagion4 ,in the first spring that ,i had passed at ,avignon1 my children1 owing to the change of climate1 all of them1 beginning with the youngest1 at short intervals from each other1 fell ill of the scarlet fever4 ,at that time ,i had sent for a physician1 who treated them with much care1 and1 as ,i judged from the event1 with sufficient skill4 ,in the course of three years he had occasionally attended when his advice was wanted4 ,his practice was among the best families of the town2 he was a middle-aged man1 married1 and father of a family4 ,he was entrusted by the municipality with the place of physician to the hospital1 in which quality he gave lectures on anatomy1 at which1 so long as the dissected subject was fresh1 ,i had allowed my sons to attend4 ,the typhus is an universal prostration of the forces of the body2 it is no wonder then that ,kenelm felt no inclination to leave his bed4 ,for two days he remained there without seeming to himself to have any illness to complain of4 ,m4 le ,docteur ,roche was sent for3 he pronounced the disorder to be a catarrhal fever2 the symptoms nothing unfavourable2 the perspiration beneficial1 but excessive2 and ordered the removal of some of the bed-clothes4 ,he prescribed at this time no medicine4 ,as this man was considered as devout1 and had frequently conversed with us on religious subjects1 ,kenelm1 on account of the effect which he supposed his scruples to have had on his health1 and assured that they would not be a subject of ridicule to a pious man1 thought it right to confide them to him4 ,the doctor coincided entirely with the reasoning of his patient3 he said1 ,for some time past you have been forming unwholesome chyle3 the bowels must be relieved2 perspiration1 so as not to weaken you1 but to carry off the fever1 probably caused by the cold bath1 must be sustained3 all will soon be well again4 ,kenelm had talked of his scruples in so edifying a manner1 as to inspire the devout doctor with great respect for his piety and humility3 returning into the first salon1 he said to the mother3 ,madame1 votre fils est un ange3 she replied1 ,pas encore4#fi ,this is one of those prophetic expressions launched at hazard1 of which so many examples are on record4 ,on the fourth day of the malady1 the delirium commenced4 ,roche was one of those physicians who never find out that they are in the wrong3 he added the epithet nervous1 to his former definition of the fever1 and ordered a calming draught at night4 ,he called three times a day3 he felt the pulse of his patient3 if the delirium had failed to alarm him1 the pulse might have indicated the typhus1 by the subsaltus tendonis1 a weak tremulous motion in the wrist1 close by the pulse4 ,from this fourth day of his illness1 ,i began to watch every night by the bed-side of ,kenelm till two o'clock in the morning3 for several years past ,i had been accustomed not to retire to rest till after midnight2 to sit up an hour or two longer was therefore no great fatigue4 ,antoine1 who was directed to go to bed at eight in the evening1 then relieved me for the rest of the night4 ,we adopted this arrangement1 not foreseeing how long the illness would last1 though the period of the typhus is well known to be thirty days4 ,kenelm's brother and sisters attended and served him during the day1 without fear of contagion1 the existence of which was positively denied by ,roche1 and which indeed was not to be apprehended in a case of nervous catarrhal fever4 ,the care of his mother extended to every moment of the day and night3 her chamber was the next room to the salon in which her son lay3 on the least noise she was at his bed-side4 ,what she endured of toil1 seemingly beyond human strength1 and how her maternal feelings were tortured1 will appear in the sequel4 ,one of the symptoms of the malady was the induration of the belly3 it became hard and tight like a drum or inflated bladder2 this proceeded from the meteorized state of the bowels2 and the vapour or fumes1 ascending thence to the brain1 as in the case of drunkenness1 caused delirium4 ,it was attempted to relieve this induration by emollient fomentations4 ,kenelm's delirium was not so entire1 but that his attention might be directed by those around him to any object that might require it3 he spoke ,french or ,english1 according to the nation of the person whom he addressed2 and it was remarkable1 that he talked ,french without hesitating or correcting his phrases1 as he was wont to do in health3 the delirium in this also resembling drunkenness1 which1 in its earlier stage1 gives a firm and ready elocution4 ,this mental alienation continued till within a few hours of his death3 it was the touchstone of his character3 he talked much1 even when alone1 or when1 as in the watches of the night1 by the faint light of a lamp1 he thought himself alone2 and his talking was thinking aloud2 so that1 had his mind or disposition concealed any thing inconsistent with piety1 purity1 or charity1 it must have been then revealed3 if his self-love had been excessive1 it would have burst forth in vain-glorious expressions3 if he had entertained inordinate desires of any kind1 they would then have betrayed themselves4 ,but there was nothing of all this4 ,he recited frequently and for a length of time together the prayers of the church1 or those used in the family3 he uttered sentiments of piety and devotion3 ,o my ,god1 ,i love thee with my whole heart and soul1 and ,i beg rather to die than offend thee by any mortal sin2 with many other aspirations of holy fervour4 ,so little fear existed of his saying any thing unfit for chaste or virgin ears to hear1 that1 not till after his death1 did it offer itself to my mind that this danger had actually been incurred4 ,it is worthy of remark1 that he never said any thing on the subject of those scruples which had given him uneasiness during his health2 a presumption that they were unfounded1 and had their source in timidity and inexperience4 ,the charity which thinketh no evil1 did not now forsake him2 he spoke of the several persons of his acquaintance1 but not in dispraise of any4 ,of one who1 as ,i knew1 had lately given him offence1 he said1 ,m4 de ---- is a very good1 a very pious man4 ,it may be conjectured that he made an effort to say something in this person's favour1 as the sort of eulogy by no means suited the character of him to whom it was given4 ,his patience was admirable4 ,on the twelfth of ,september1 sinapism was applied to the soles of his feet3 it produced no good effect1 being taken off four hours after it was put on2 but1 during those four hours1 it caused excessive torture3 he said1 it is a fire that burns without consuming4 ,two days after the removal of the sinapism1 ,roche ordered blisters on the legs1 and insisted1 in token of his good-will1 on putting them on himself3 he put them on as one unaccustomed to the work3 the patient1 unconscious of what he was doing1 tore them off in the night1 and spread the blistering drug on different parts of his body4 ,the surgeon who attended to dress the blisters1 advised that these slight excoriations should be let alone1 fearing to draw them by any healing plaster1 and hoping that they might heal of themselves4 ,the restlessness of the patient prevented this3 plasters were then applied1 but four or five of these wounds situated on the parts on which he rested in bed1 continued till his death4 ,by these wounds ,kenelm was urged to exclaim1 ,o why do ,i suffer so much8 but immediately corrected himself3 ,i am very wrong--very impatient4 ,he refused to take any thing to remove the nauseous taste of the medicines3 he once asked for a piece of an orange for this purpose1 and then rejected it4 ,on some few occasions he complained1 as one suffering indeed1 but not as without resignation1 or unwilling to suffer3 he seemed at all times sensible of the duty of bearing his illness in the spirit of penance3 even his delirium did not destroy the virtuous habits of his mind4 ,about this time my younger son began to be ill2 the predisposition to the typhus manifested itself in listlessness and languor4 ,roche said1 ,il est triste a cause de son frere3 il faut l'amuser2 il faut le promener4#gj ,he was still able1 for some days longer1 to amuse himself with his pencil or at chess with me1 and to walk out with the servant or some of the family2 but the malady gained upon him4 ,after the event1 ,i can blame myself1 and may be blamed by others1 for allowing my confidence in ,roche to continue so long4 ,after the event1 ,i received hints1 and more than hints1 that he was not of skill enough for a serious case2 while he was still retained1 no one spoke against him4 ,besides1 he had served me well in the serious case of the scarlet fever4 ,i did not place more reliance on him on account of his devotion1 knowing that devotion is but too often another mode of self-deceit3 but ,i thought him incapable of acting like a villain4 ,the patient showed an appearance of great strength1 and ,roche's daily promises of his speedy recovery did not as yet bear the semblance of improbability4 ,the silence of the surgeon1 who came every morning and evening to dress and keep open the blisters1 also tended to deceive me4 ,he might have been the means of saving a valuable life1 of rescuing the family from the danger of contagion1 all except the younger son1 who had already taken the infection2 and for him might have procured timely aid3 but he prudently held his tongue1 except to assure us that there was no danger4 ,at length came the grand conspirator1 he who set his seal to the deceit1 rendered the discovery of ,roche's error impracticable1 and assured its result4 ,,footnotes3 #fi ,your son is an angel4--,not yet4 #gj ,he is melancholy on account of his brother2 he must be amused2 he must be taken out4 ,,chap4 ,,xvii4 ,on the seventeenth of ,september1 ,i proposed to ,roche to call in another physician1 naming ,m4 ,guerard1 a man of acknowledged ability1 but old and deaf4 ,on account of these natural defects of ,guerard1 and out of friendship for ,roche1 ,i did not discharge this latter4 ,roche said1 ,i will call myself on ,m4 ,guerard1 and bring him to the house4 ,i saw nothing in this proposal1 but an act of civility towards ,guerard4 ,i have since understood that this man sheltered himself1 under the character of consulting physician1 from the reproach of a treacherous abuse of my confidence in him4 ,it is possible that ,roche called him in as such1 from unwillingness to seem to be superseded4 ,but on his second visit1 when he came alone1 on his observing1 ,m4 ,roche est votre medecin1 ,i replied1 vous l'etes aussi1#ga and explained to him1 that ,i expected from him the service of a physician just as much as if ,roche was not in attendance2 adding that1 if ,i had been perfectly satisfied with ,roche1 ,i should not have called in another4 ,besides he received his fee2 a circumstance which1 if ,i understand aright1 technically nullifies a technical defence of a conduct too atrocious for me to suspect at the time1 and including too much cruelty to be justified by any considerations4 ,he came1 accompanied by ,roche4 ,he said1 ,m4 ,roche has explained to me in detail your son's illness and the treatment of it3 we will go and see him4 ,he examined his patient with great attention4 ,on leaving the room he said1 this is a very serious malady1 but ,i see no immediate danger4 ,he prescribed musk and bark3 these medicines being proper for the typhus1 prove what indeed has never been questioned1 that he knew1 from the first1 the nature of the complaint4 ,the languid state of my younger son was mentioned to him2 he smiled on him good-naturedly1 took his hand1 but made no remark1 giving at the same time a significant look at ,roche4 ,the servant met them descending the stairs2 ,guerard wringing his hands1 and ,roche looking1 as the man expressed himself1 like a scolded child1 un enfant gronde4 ,by some fatality1 ,antoine did not speak of this till some days after the death of ,kenelm3 had it been mentioned at the time1 it might have changed the whole state of things4 ,the next morning1 ,antoine asked ,roche on his first visit1 ,is ,m4 ,kenelm worse1 ,sir8 ,m4 ,guerard seemed much disturbed yesterday4 ,roche said1 ,o no3 all is going on well3 he is better4 ,guerard did not even order ,roche's treatment1 though contrary to the malady1 to be discontinued2 and ,roche went on with his barley-water and calming potion conjointly with ,guerard's prescribed medicines4 ,after visiting four days1 ,guerard fell ill of the gout and was confined to his house3 it was then agreed that ,roche should report to him daily the state of the patient1 and consult with him on the treatment4 ,my eldest daughter1 subsequently to ,guerard's first visit1 was ill of a sore throat3 had she taken the infection of the typhus1 would these medical men still have persevered in their silence8 ,a good providence was merciful4 ,she recovered2 we were less alarmed1 as unaware of the extent of the danger2 and it is not proved that the medical men were willing to assassinate more than two of the family4 ,kenelm appeared to be somewhat benefited by ,guerard's medicines2 and the external application of camphor1 now prescribed by ,roche1 mitigated the delirium1 though it did not remove the cause4 ,his brother said one day1 ,let us try how far his mind is free3 and1 taking the drawing before-mentioned of the infant ,jesus1 which had been framed and hung up in the first salon1 he placed it at the foot of his brother's bed4 ,kenelm looked at it for a short time with seeming pleasure1 and then said1 ,perhaps that may hereafter do me some little honour4 ,other indications he gave1 that he thought his end to be near3 he said to me1 with a pensive and composed look1--,monument8 what monument shall ,i have8 ,he heard the bell of the church of ,st4 ,agricol1 and cried1 ,why do they ring that bell8 ,i am not dead yet4 ,on the twenty-fourth of ,september he said to his mother1 ,i dreamed last night that ,mr4 ,roche took me into a church1 and left me there1 promising to bring me every day bread and water4 ,he did so for some time2 but one day he failed of coming1 and ,i died4 ,i thought in my dream that ,i made a very happy death3 ,i am certain it is a very easy thing to make a happy death4 ,this dream evidently tranquillized and spoke peace to his soul3 it was a merciful dispensation1 when other means of spiritual comfort were rendered impossible by the delirium1 which however left to his pious thoughts their direction and energy4 ,he had been1 for some days before1 a little better4 ,the delirium was somewhat abated1 and he seemed to have more strength2 but on the twenty-fifth these favourable symptoms disappeared2 this lightening before death vanished4 ,on the evening of that day1 the surgeon took upon himself to apply healing plasters to the blisters1 without asking the opinion of ,roche1 who was present1 and who1 though unasked1 to keep himself in countenance1 gave his assent1 saying1 ,c'est tres bien fait de ,m4 ,busquet4#gb ,roche had evidently now lost all presence of mind3 he knew not what to do2 and no confidence could longer be placed in one who ceased even to affect to have any in himself4 ,the next morning ,i sent him his discharge3 he wrote me a letter full of respect and sensibility1 complaining of this measure1 and returning the fee4 ,the custom of ,france is1 that the physician is not paid till the termination of the malady3 had ,roche retained the fee1 he would have acceded to his own dismissal1 which he earnestly wished to be recalled1 foreseeing that all must inevitably be known on the arrival of another physician4 ,guerard too1 who was still confined by the gout1 made strong objections to the calling in another physician1 whom ,i named to him1 and who had studied with credit at ,paris4 ,he requested me to be contented that the surgeon1 an able man1 should make his report as ,roche had done1 and promised to call the next day in a chaise a porteurs--sedan-chair4 ,i had taken with me my younger son1 intending to consult ,guerard about him4 ,in my confusion and anxiety1 ,i forgot to do so2 but ,guerard1 who knew the nature of the malady1 and that ,i had been kept in the dark concerning it2--who knew that my younger son1 ten days before1 had been ill for some days--must have apprehended his state1 even from his looks1 and to this state consigned him4 ,roche1 during his latter visits1 had sedulously avoided paying attention to the younger son2 and so slow at first was the advance of the illness1 that we had neglected to call his attention that way4 ,roche too knew all4 ,had he continued his visits1 ,i cannot tell what he would have done3 perhaps he could not tell himself4 ,he could hardly have talked of a second catarrhal nervous fever2 nor could ,guerard have borne him out in it4 ,the next morning1 the #bgth1 ,i called again on ,guerard4 ,on seeing me1 he cried out1 ,sir1 ,i should have come to your house yesterday1 but for the difficulty of mounting the stairs4--,you might have been carried up in an armchair by the porters4--,that shall be done to-morrow1 if ,i am not strong enough to mount by myself3 at any rate ,i will come to-morrow4 ,he now1 by my desire1 felt my younger son's pulse4 ,he has some fever3 he must be taken care of3 ,i will come to-morrow4 ,he well knew1 though ,i did not1 how urgent the case was3 though regularly called upon to prescribe for my younger son1 he thus evaded his duty4 ,he added1 referring to the elder son1--,m4 ,busquet is a clever man3 he has my method1 and will treat your son according to it4 ,another physician will1 very likely1 wish to try experiments4 ,if ,i admitted with such credulous facility the delays of this cold-hearted man and the fear of empiricism1 which he artfully threw in1 it was because ,i foresaw not the calamities that awaited me3 could ,i even have foreseen them1 ,i should not have suspected any one capable of thus trifling with a father of a family1 who1 in that quality1 had thrown himself on his good faith1 and1 in his quality of stranger1 in some sort on the good faith of his nation4 ,i acted even worse on the morrow4 ,guerard failed to come2 ,i waited for him the whole day1 and then did not even send to inquire after him4 ,i do not pretend to excuse a conduct so inconsistent with my principles and feelings2 yet be it remembered1 sorrow and perturbation of mind are bad counsellors4 ,desponding and sick at heart1 overcome by lassitude--,i speak not of corporeal fatigue1 for a messenger would have ascertained the failure of ,guerard1 and brought a physician in his stead--but overborne by the disappointment of the efforts ,i had made1 and1 later in the day1 becoming sensible of the danger of ,kenelm1 ,i felt as if1 like the father of ,thessalonica1 ,i could not help one son without abandoning the other4 ,i acted wrong3 it is some consolation to reflect that1 whereas1 on the following day1 ,i found the physician who saved the life of my younger son2 had ,i this day sent for one1 that one might not have had the same success4 ,for ,kenelm1 the delay imported not2 his days were numbered4 ,it may also be a palliation that1 when his mother asked the surgeon what news she might send to her friends in ,england1 he replied1--,you may tell them1 ,madam1 that there is no danger4 ,in the evening of the same day1 this same man said to me1 ,your son is worse3 your younger son also requires attention3 ,i will go immediately to ,m4 ,guerard1 and tell him it is absolutely necessary that a physician should visit them4 ,he said also1 ,it would be better that the young ladies should not stay in their brother's chamber4 ,i said1 ,we have been assured that there is no danger of contagion4--,there is always some danger4 ,he spoke of the sisters who were present1 and whose presence had always seemed to give pleasure to ,kenelm4 ,his brother was so weakened by the now rapid progress of his own malady1 that1 for two days1 he had hardly passed into this room1 and had gone early to bed4 ,it was now with him1 as was known afterwards1 the twelfth day of the fever4 ,he himself1 from his own feelings asserted that his disorder was the same as his brother's4 ,the medical diagnosis was the same2 yet to me1 who could judge by appearances only1 it seemed a perfectly different illness2 the prostration of all the strength of the body was the only visible symptom1 and this had come on gradually and quietly1 had brought with it loss of spirits and of appetite1 had even affected the eye-sight1 but without any occasional excitement1 without delirium4 ,towards midnight ,i took my station to watch by the bed-side of ,kenelm with a presentiment1 very naturally to be accounted for1 that it was for the last time4 ,he passed the night in tolerable tranquillity1 but1 at day-break1 he began to disturb and alarm us by loud and continued talking4 ,at the same time his understanding seemed to be returning1 as1 amidst the extravagancies he uttered1 he spoke of an occurrence in the life-time of his eldest sister1 7little ,mary he called her17 but that was a long time ago2 she has been dead fifteen years3 this was exact4 ,he said also1 ,i would give the world to be able to hold my tongue1 but ,i seem to have something within me that forces me to talk4 ,he talked in fact incessantly for six hours1 till his voice even became hoarse4 ,this was the last effort of the victorious typhus3 the gangrene of the bowels was now in operation2 sickness came on4 ,guerard had not rendered himself to the summons of the surgeon the evening before1 nor to the repeated summons of the same messenger this morning4 ,i hastened to his house3 at eleven o'clock he was sitting in his arm chair3 he had not even sent word that he could not come4 ,i addressed him in a hurried manner3--,is my son to take the bark1 since he is vomiting8 ,guerard1 being deaf1 and supposing my question to be a reiterated invitation1 or complaint of his absence1 declared his utter inability to visit me1 concluding his excuses1 with ,voici le medecin que je vous recommande1#gc pointing to a person sitting near him1 whom ,i had before met with1 but did not recognise4 ,suspecting that ,guerard's recommendation might proceed from jealousy of the other physician whom ,i had once named to him1 ,i requested the stranger to give me his address1 which he did2 ,m4 ,breugne4 ,i then repeated my question to ,guerard1 who1 not hearing to the end1 advised that the bark should be continued4 ,m4 ,breugne said1 ,puisqu'il vomit8#gd ,guerard then said the bark must be suspended4 ,i asked him what opinion he had formed on the report of the surgeon3 to this a vague answer was given4 ,m4 ,breugne said1 that a physician could not judge of a patient's case by report3 he gave some reasons for this opinion1 concluding1 the pulse cannot be described4 ,i took leave hastily and without explaining my intentions as to the successor to ,roche and ,guerard4 ,this latter had no claim to know them4 ,i wished to inform myself respecting ,m4 ,breugne4 ,the physician whom ,i had in my mind1 had a high reputation1 but was young1 and consequently as yet had but little practice4 ,i went up to my younger son's chamber1 ,who is this ,m4 ,breugne8 said ,i4 ,he is the physician of the family of ,m4 de ,r4 of whom they all speak so highly4 ,had the question been proposed to him an hour later1 he would have been incapable of answering it1 for then the stupor of the fever was fully come upon him4 ,had the stupor come upon him twelve hours later1 he must have known of the death of his brother2 and the effect of that knowledge1 in his weak state1 would most probably have been fatal to him4 ,i now recollected1 concerning ,m4 ,breugne1 what was amply sufficient to decide me in his favour4 ,by way of making amends for my reserve1 ,i went to his house myself4 ,he promised to come in ten minutes3 that space of time ,i employed in helping my younger son to dress1 and come down stairs3 the fatigue of these operations was to him excessive2 arrived at the door of the first salon1 he looked at the sofa1 as if he wished it to come to meet him1 made a few hasty and tottering steps1 and threw himself upon it1 quite exhausted4 ,he desired that it might be turned with its back to the windows1 as the light importuned him3 this was done1 and the large round table was pushed from the centre of the salon towards one side1 that there might be space between it and the sofa4 ,this trifling circumstance is not mentioned idly2 it will be seen hereafter to have its meaning4 ,who can deny the existence of a superintending1 a particular ,providence1 when he observes1 that the mental faculties of my younger son were continued to him1 as if on purpose that he might assist me in determining on the choice of the physician who rescued him from death1 and that they were then temporarily suspended precisely at the time when it became necessary that he should be kept in ignorance of what1 if known1 would have retarded or prevented his restoration to health8 ,is it presumption in me to think1 that even my negligence of the former day1 when ,i waited so long for ,guerard without taking any steps to replace him1 may have been regulated1 that the merciful dispensations of a good ,providence might have their way8 ,i advance this conjecture in all humility1 and corrected by a sense of my own unworthiness4 ,,footnotes3 #ga ,m4 ,roche is your physician4--,you are my physician also4 #gb ,it is very well done of ,m4 ,busquet4 #gc ,here is the physician whom ,i recommend to you4 #gd ,since he is vomiting8 ,,chap4 ,,xviii4 ,m4 ,breugne1 entering the room and seeing his younger patient stretched on the sofa1 went first to him3 after a short examination1 he said3 ,il a la fievre typhus1 et1 a en juger par la gravite des symptomes1 il l'a eu depuis huit a dix jours3 il doit l'avoir gagnee de ,m4 son frere aine1 que je n'ai pas encore vu4#ge ,i led him into the inner salon4 ,he felt the pulse of the elder son2 his mother was standing by the bed-side3 he looked at what ,kenelm had thrown from his stomach3 the mother asked if it was the bark2 ,non1 ,madam1 ce n'est pas cela2 and1 with a look of dreadful import1 he led me out of the room1 and1 with a hurried under voice1 said1 ,c'en est fait de lui3 sauvons l'autre3 qu'il soit monte au second2 que ses soeurs ne mettent pas meme le pied sur l'escalier4#gf ,all was now at once revealed4 ,breugne1 overcome by the impetuosity of his own feelings1 did not give himself time to reflect with how little preparation or management he made known to me the certain death of one son1 the uncertain fate of the other1 and the danger of all the family4 ,i was stunned1 but not surprised4 ,he prescribed for the two brothers2 ,with respect to the elder1 we will do our duty2 but it is useless1 and may torment him2 he has not two days to live2 indeed ,i fear he will not pass the night3 for the younger1 ,i can assure you of nothing2 ,i have hope3 ,i have followed1 as physician1 the armies of ,italy1 and have attended1 it may be1 a thousand persons under this disorder2 ,i have lost but two or three1 and then only through some fault of the patient2 but here1 in the case of your younger son1 this fault exists1--he has been ten days without treatment1 without medical aid4 ,he returned at five o'clock in the afternoon1 and gave more particular directions concerning him1 confirming his opinion1 that ,kenelm could not live over the night4 ,two hours later1 the surgeon called as usual1 but proposed not to dress the blisters till next morning4 ,how we cling to the possession of a beloved object6 ,notwithstanding what she had heard and what she saw before her1 the mother was alarmed1 and cried out1 ,you think he will not live till morning8 ,not less grieved1 but more resolute1 ,i touched the sole of ,kenelm's foot1 and said to the surgeon1 ,he is already cold here3 the surgeon1 touching the upper part of the foot1 said1 ,there is warmth here3 ,yes1 said ,i1 the natural heat is retiring4 ,the surgeon made no reply4 ,to calm the mother's fears1 he seemed to dress the blisters2 and so the work of these medical men was ended4 ,our director had called in the course of the morning3 he pitied the affliction of the family1 and conversed with the excellent youth now approaching to the close of a virtuous life4 ,kenelm wished to make a general confession2 the priest knowing this to be1 in his case1 superfluous1 and doubting if his mind or bodily strength were sufficient to such a purpose1 consoled him1 and persuaded him to defer it4 ,in the evening he called again1 and proposed to me the administration of the sacrament of extreme unction2 undertaking to prepare the cure of ,st4 ,agricol1 the parish-church4 ,the viaticum was1 of necessity1 to be omitted on account of the vomiting4 ,kenelm1 though exhausted by this discharge1 yet on account of the movement which it occasioned1 and from painful and uneasy sensations1 was unable to sleep3 he called aloud several times the name of his brother1 recollecting perhaps that he had not seen him during the day1 adding1 ,he is playing alone in the field4 ,his three younger sisters had retired to their chambers1 just before the arrival of the priest with the holy oils4 ,i said to him1 ,you will be glad to see ,m4 l',abbe3 he assented4 ,the priest1 addressing him1 said1 ,you see this is the crucifix8 he answered1 changing his language immediately into that of the priest1 ,oui1 ,monsieur2 and devoutly kissed the sign of salvation4 ,the expression of his countenance1 during the extreme unction1 was that of joy mingled with surprise2 as of one delighted with the approach of death1 and understanding now1 for the first time1 that it was near4 ,no doubt was entertained but that he knew what was going forward1 and1 in hope1 set the seal to his faith4 ,the priest and his attendant retired4 ,kenelm's mother approached the bed3 ,will you pray for me------ she had not force to add1 as she wished1 when you are in heaven8 ,he said1 ,yes1 ,i will1 if you will not cry3 why do you cry8--,to see you so ill4--,that is the reason2 yes1 ,i am very ill3 he expressed a wish to repose himself1 but could not sleep2 the fermentation of the gangrene was consuming his bowels4 ,i sent for ,m4 ,breugne again at ten o'clock4 ,i am giving you an useless trouble2 but can any thing be done to relieve him8 ,breugne looked at him attentively1 and turning away1 said1 ,he has not two hours to live4 ,my eldest daughter1 in a movement of grief and despair1 cried out1 ,sir1 you abandon him2 you have not even felt his pulse4 ,breugne1 in a compassionate and placid manner1 said1 ,if it will be a satisfaction to you1 ,mademoiselle1-- and felt the wrist3 he has no pulse that can be counted4 ,i went up with ,breugne into my younger son's chamber3 ,il dort2 laissons-le2 je viendrai demain de bonne heure4#gg ,notwithstanding ,kenelm's satisfactory behaviour during the religious ceremony of which he had been the subject1 ,i wished for more positive assurance that his reason was restored to him1 and that he was aware of his state3 ,i wished1 as far as ,i might1 to comfort him1 and prepare him for his end4 ,the task was most difficult3 thirty days before1 youth and the expectation of a long life were his3 a month had been passed in a dream from which he was now awakened but to die4 ,in his weak state1 how enter on such a topic8 ,i endeavoured to lead to it4 ,do you love me1 my dear son8--,yes1 ,i love you2 as ,i ought2 you have great virtues4--,and great faults4--,it is not for me to judge of that4--,do you forgive me the faults ,i may have committed in regard to you8--,assuredly ,i do4 ,he signified that he should be obliged to vomit1 and ,i withdrew2 nor could ,i afterwards excite him to speak1 though ,i frequently drew near the bed for that purpose1 and1 at times1 gently called him by his name4 ,his last words were words of charity1 of pardon1 and of peace4 ,his father and mother took one of his hands in theirs2 it was cold1 colder than afterwards in death3 he seemed unwilling to be thus disturbed2 they laid the hand down1 and1 with their eldest daughter1 awaited the end in painful and trembling anxiety3 he appeared to suffer1 but to be so oppressed as to be unable to give expression to the sense of what he suffered4 ,the hour of midnight sounded3 his last agony came on2 and1 within ten minutes1 he expired on ,sunday morning1 the thirtieth of ,september1 aged twenty years1 four months1 and twenty-five days4 ,the affliction of his parents and sister1 who were fully sensible of the value of what they had lost1 needs not to be described4 ,the exclamation of ,antoine ,leturge1 the domestic1 the other witness of this scene of woe1 was simple and expressive3 ,il est mort1 lui1 qui etoit si bon6#gh ,as they gazed on the awful object before them1 the sister said1 ,his eyes ought to be closed2 the mother1 without due recollection at the moment1 made a sign to the servant3 he1 with right feeling1 gently said1 ,c'est au pere a faire cela3#gi and the father did it4 ,after attending to the due arrangement of the chamber1 and of the precious remains1 ,i went up stairs3 the doors of the chambers of my two sons were close to each other2 ,i was strangely struck by the sight of the open door of the untenanted chamber1 and stopt a moment to recover force to enter into the other4 ,i saw the flushed face of my only surviving son through the gauze that surrounded the bed2 ,i heard his breathing1 too full1 but tranquil and equal4 ,i withdrew1 and took a few hours troubled sleep on the couch on which both my sons had commenced their dreadful malady4 ,in the morning1 a table was placed1 according to the usage of the country1 at the door of the court of the house1 with paper and pens for those who wished to signify their condolence with the family1 to write their names4 ,the list of names was numerous3 among them some one wrote1 ,tous les honnetes gens de la ville d',avignon4#hj ,it was never known who paid this tribute to the virtues of the deceased4 ,i cannot forbear to mention1 that the man who had given him lessons in fencing1 a hardy soldier who had seen much military service1 was so shocked by the news of his death1 that he fainted in the street1 and was led home in a weak state3 this man was not advanced in years1 but of the middle age1 stout1 and of high spirit4 ,before mid-day1 the body in its coffin was taken to a room on the ground floor3 a shirt and sheet served1 according to the custom of ,france1 the purpose of the woollen shroud3 the head was raised on a pillow3 the hands were fixed1 as we still see them on some ancient tombs1 in the posture of prayer3 a small crucifix1 the same which he had pressed to his lips the evening before1 was placed on the breast3 wax tapers and incense were burnt2 the latter in more than ordinary quantity as a preservative from infection4 ,the lid of the coffin is not1 at any time1 fastened in the south of ,france1 not even at the time of interment3 it is then laid evenly upon it2 till then it is placed obliquely1 so that the upper part of the body and the feet are seen4 ,the face of the deceased now bore no sign of suffering2 the features were composed1 and seemed to indicate a tranquil state4 ,owing to the excessive cold which1 before death1 had gradually spread itself over the body1 the muscles had become instantly rigid1 and it had been impossible to close completely the eyes and mouth3 so that the separated eye-lashes1 and a fine set of teeth1 white and regular1 added to the illusion produced by what seemed an expression of thoughtfulness4 ,death looked like sleep3 it required an effort of reflection to be convinced of the mournful reality4 ,on the morning of the first of ,october1 the clergy of the cathedral came to the house to convey the body to the church3 they were requested not to begin their chant of the office for the dead1 till at such a distance as not to be heard by the surviving brother4 ,the church was filled by a crowd whom divine charity1 or the best feelings of humanity1 brought to assist at the solemn rite1 and to witness a scene which the early youth1 the well-known virtues1 the afflicted state of the family of him who lay before them1 conspired to render interesting4 ,high mass was celebrated3 the body was then carried to the cemetery to the north of the city1 and interred towards the middle of the wall enclosing the cemetery on the north2 the head resting near the wall1 the feet turned towards ,avignon4 ,eighteen masses1 without chant1 were said for the repose of the soul of the defunct4 ,on ,friday following1 high mass was again sung1 when1 according to custom1 the friends of the family were invited to be present3 a great concourse again attended to join their prayers to the powerful intercession of the spotless victim1 and testify their sympathy and compassion4 ,on a tablet of white marble1 inserted in a sepulchral stone from the quarries of ,barbentanne1 is inscribed1 in the ,latin language1 his name1 his country1 his religion1 his age1 and the date of the day and year of his death4 ,henry ,kenelm was tall1 more than five feet ten inches in height1 strong and well-made1 but not large-limbed2 with light hair1 dark blue eyes1 and dark eye-lashes1 and a fair complexion4 ,the expression of his countenance was1 like his mind1 benevolent1 frank1 cheerful1 and intelligent4 ,when we were at ,florence1 a year after his death1 a cast1 from a statue in the public gallery1 was sent to our lodging as a model for drawing4 ,all of us were struck by the resemblance of this bust to him whom we regretted1 whose features were still so fresh in our recollection4 ,antoine was called2 the bust was shown to him2 nothing was said3 ,it is like ,m4 ,kenelm1 said he4 ,my son took two copies of this bust3 the original is an athleta1 as it is called1 bearing and looking down upon an urn3 it is the third or fourth statue from the entrance of the gallery on the left hand4 ,we showed the bust to a friend3 ,it is like the son whom we have lost4--,your son was a very fine young man4 ,the face of the statue is certainly handsome3 that of ,kenelm had more animation4 ,his manners were those of good society1 wanting nothing but that ease and confidence which time and experience would have given4 ,the friends who endeavoured to console me1 employed1 among other topics1 that of the danger of the world to youth4 ,the argument proves too much4 ,a father is not reconciled1 by the apprehension of a danger1 uncertain1 and 7in this case it may not be presumption to say7 improbable1 to the loss of a son whom he has reared with careful and anxious thought1 to whose future life he looks forward with pleasing hope4 ,the ,greek proverb indeed says1 ,he1 whom ,god loves1 dies young2 but we trust that many who do not die young are beloved by ,god4 ,more effectually did the priest at ,avignon console me3 he knew1 as confessor1 the interior and the conscience of ,kenelm3 ,je vous reponds de son salut2 c'etoit un fruit mur pour le ciel3 ,dieu l'a cueilli1 et l'a mis dans son grenier4#ha ,the ,almighty ,father of all1 whose wise providence sends afflictions1 who knows when those whom he is pleased to call to himself have well finished their course1--he can give assured comfort1 and this assured comfort he was graciously pleased to impart to the parents of ,henry ,kenelm4 ,mean time let me hope that this example of faith and piety1 of filial submission and fraternal love1 of application to study1 of patience1 mortification1 chastity1 will not be lost2 that some will be reclaimed1 and many edified4 ,to my children especially1 ,i recommend this memorial1 written with tears of mingled joy and grief3 they have lost a brother1 but they possess the remembrance of his virtues1 the knowledge of his felicity1 the benefit of his intercession4 ,may they ever bear in mind that every good1 every perfect gift cometh from above2 that to ,him alone is glory1 who in crowning our merits crowneth his own work4 ,greek3 ,doron toi kai ego1 teknon phile1 touto didomi4 ,i will now relate an occurrence1 on which ,i request the reader to exercise his judgment temperately4 ,he will readily believe that ,i have not invented it3 this is not an age in which credit is given to visions or honor to visionaries4 ,in the night between the #cjth and #cast of ,october1 thirty entire days after the death of ,kenelm1 his parents retired late to rest2 in fact1 at one o'clock of the morning of the #cast4 ,as they were composing themselves to sleep1 they heard a noise as of the breaking of a small stick4 ,to me this noise seemed to proceed from the cabinet or dressing-room behind the bed2 my wife heard it as from the commode or drawers opposite the foot of the bed4 ,we asked each other what the noise might be1 and compared what we had heard4 ,within a minute1 my wife1 who had raised herself in her bed1 asked me1 ,what light is that8 ,i saw no light1 and asked1 ,where8--,on the drawers1 brighter than any candle4 ,she proceeded to describe what she saw3 ,now it rises and grows larger4 ,how beautifully bright6 brighter than the most brilliant star4 ,what can it mean8 it is very strange you don't see it4 ,i thought so too2 but1 to encourage her1 said1 ,compose yourself2 it can mean no harm4 ,she went on3 ,it still rises and grows larger3 now it turns towards the window--it takes the form of a dove with the wings spread but--it has a bright glory all around it--it looks steadily at me--it speaks to my heart1 and tells me that my dear ,henry is happy--it fixes a piercing look on me1 as if it would make me feel what it means4 ,now ,i know he is happy1 and shall lament no more for him4 ,there--now it has disappeared4 ,though ,i had not seen the light1 ,i could see the face of my wife while she was looking at it1 and the tears glittering as if a bright light passed through them while they fell down her cheeks4 ,the ,french word would be ebrillantees4 ,there still remained a suffused light in the room1 particularly on the wall above the drawers1 as of the reflection of a nearly extinguished fire4 ,this was observed by both of us4 ,it lasted about five minutes1 growing gradually fainter1 and at length failing entirely4 ,while looking at this suffused and darkish red light1 and reasoning with myself how or why the bright light had not been seen by me1 ,i remarked1 on the floor1 by the open door of the cabinet1 the reflection of a veilleuse1 or small night-lamp4 ,these lights are made of a single thread of cotton half an inch long1 steeped in melted wax1 and1 when dry1 inserted in little flat pieces of cork1 which are floated1 while the cotton is burning1 in a small quantity of oil4 ,this night-lamp was placed in the remotest corner of the dressing room1 which went the whole length of the bed-room4 ,i saw its reflection on the floor only1 and only so far as the open door permitted it to be seen4 ,this said ,i1 cannot be the cause of the suffused light2 still less can it have been the cause of the bright one4 ,while ,i was looking1 first at the suffused light1 then at the reflection of the lamp1 the former disappeared2 it was plain1 therefore1 that it had not been caused by the latter4 ,in the morning we visited the tomb of our departed son1 and returned thanks to ,god4 ,during the whole of the scene which ,i have described1 which lasted about half a quarter of an hour1 my wife's behaviour was sufficiently composed and recollected1 was consistent and rational1 free from affectation or enthusiasm4 ,a sudden and transient apparition of an illuminated dove with a glory might be considered as the work of fancy2 but here this appearance was prepared for and followed by circumstances1 in which the imagination could have no part4 ,the attention of her who was to see the vision was directed1 by the noise preceding it1 to the place where it first appeared2 while ,i was roused by the same noise1 but heard by me in a different part of the chamber1 as if ,i were to be1 as in the main ,i was1 a witness only4 ,i repeat1 the suffused light was seen by us both for four or five minutes4 ,besides the form which the bright light assumed to the eyes of my wife1 the circumstance of its being seen by one of the parties only1 without weakening the force of her testimony1 is conclusive against its being either a natural or artificial light2 and her testimony1 aided by mine1 as to the concomitant circumstances1 proves it to have been a supernatural one4 ,the house looked into a court2 there was no house opposite from which lamp or candle could be seen2 the moon1 whatever witty people may be inclined to say of the influence of the moon in this case1 was but four days old3 besides1 the window shutters were closed1 and excluded all lights1 artificial or natural4 ,to use the words of a learned1 rational1 and respectable old man1 the cure of ,st4 ,agricol1 to whom ,i related the matter1 ,ce qu'on voit1 on voit4 ,true1--what one sees1 one sees2 but the scripture1 with that intimate knowledge of human nature evident in its every page1 speaks of some who will not be persuaded even though one rose from the dead4 ,the term of thirty days has been observed in the catholic church as that at the end of which revelations have sometimes been made of the happiness of departed souls4 ,i will now proceed in order with my narrative1 but will first1 to conclude this subject1 transcribe the affecting prayer for the dead in the canon of the mass1 which1 not having found its way into ,the ,book of ,common ,prayer1 will be new to many of my readers3-- ,memento1 ,domine1 famulorum famularumque tuarum ,n4 et ,n4 qui nos praeecesserunt cum signo fidei1 et dormiunt in somno pacis3 ipsis1 ,domine1 et omnibus in ,christo quiescentibus1 locum refrigerii1 lucis1 et pacis1 ut indulgeas1 deprecamur2 per eundem ,christum ,dominum nostrum4 ,amen4 ,,footnotes3 #ge ,he has the typhus fever2 and1 to judge by the gravity of the symptoms1 he has had it for eight or ten days3 he must have taken it from his elder brother1 whom ,i have not yet seen4 #gf ,it is all over with him3 let us save the other2 let him be taken up to the second story1 and let his sisters not even set a foot on the staircase4 #gg ,he sleeps3 we will leave him alone3 ,i will come again early to-morrow4 #gh ,he is dead2 he that was so good6 #gi ,it is for the father to do that4 #hj ,all the worthy people of the city of ,avignon4 #ha ,i answer to you for his salvation2 it was a fruit ripe for heaven3 ,god has gathered it1 and placed it in his granary4 ,,chap4 ,,xix4 ,on the morning of the funeral1 ,m4 ,breugne called a little before ten o'clock1 the time appointed to the clergy1 led me up into my son's chamber1 made there a long visit1 gave me to understand the hour to be earlier than it really was1 returned into the salon1 and kept me there for some time in conversation4 ,when he had retired1 ,i went down to the room where the body of ,kenelm had lain3 it was gone4 ,i stood some time lamenting the disappointment of my purposed farewell2 blaming the well-meant and successful efforts of ,breugne to deprive me of this sorrowful satisfaction1 and renewing the impression of the view ,i had taken the preceding evening of that which ,i was to behold no more4 ,the crucifix lay on the table2 ,i took it up2 and1 before leaving the room1 was preparing to extinguish the tapers which were1 by chance as ,i thought1 left burning4 ,the femme-de-chambre called out to me1 ,monsieur1 il ne faut pas faire cela3 les cierges lient la famille a ce qui se fait dans l'eglise4#hb ,it is easy to call this arrangement superstitious3 there was good sense1 and a sense of decorum in thus declaring1 by external signs1 our participation in the office in which we had so dear a concern4 ,whatever man loves or esteems highly1 he endeavours to represent to himself by symbols4 ,friends set a great value on those tokens of friendship which they may have received as presents2 even to become accidentally possessed of any object1 however trifling1 that belonged to a friend1 is a cause of pleasure4 ,portraits are precious1 not merely as works of art1 but as reminding us of those whom we delight to remember2 and none refuse to venerate the images of saints1 but those who make no account of the saints themselves4 ,in ,italy1 in the salons of ambassadors1 ,i have seen the thrones of their several sovereigns1 to connect by these emblems the representatives with the represented1--ceremonial so necessary to the maintenance of authority1 that the ,spanish minister told his king1 ,your ,majesty's self is nothing but a ceremonial2--etiquette so essential to the good order of society1 that not even the most unpolished reunion subsists without it3 these are but modes of expressing meaning by signs4 ,in war1 in politics1 in civil contracts1 in common life1 men universally thus express themselves2 and why not in religion8 ,those who quarrel with the shadow are angry with the substance that throws it4 ,i said to ,m4 ,breugne1 ,have compassion on me4 ,it is not my fault that ,i did not know you sooner1 but a great misfortune it has proved to me3 you might have saved my elder son4 ,you would not have allowed the younger to perish under your eyes4 ,breugne said1 ,what you have suffered is horrible4 ,on the second day of my visit to your younger son1 ,i met at the door the coffin of the elder4 ,do not let us despair as long as your dear boy has life4 ,i will not deceive you2 you shall know of his state all ,i know myself4 ,he gave me to understand that he wished me to determine the number of his visits each day1 being unwilling1 as ,i supposed1 to appear desirous of making up by their frequency for the smallness of the fee usually given to ,french physicians4 ,i said1 ,save my son2 spare no pains that may be necessary to that end3 come as often as your visits may be of use to him4 ,he said1 ,from the first ,i have fixed on a plan in regard to him1 which ,i shall not have occasion to change3 that plan will succeed1 or nothing will4 ,so many days have been lost1 that he must have as much both of nourishment and medicine as he can take with advantage2 but ,i must watch him very attentively to find out the quantity of both1 that he may be able in his weak state to bear and to profit by4 ,never was greater zeal1 activity1 and judgment exerted than by this worthy man3 all was not more than enough2 for never had human being such a struggle for life as had this youth4 ,his delirium inclined to stupor4 ,fomentations of aromatic herbs were applied to the head2 sinapism was applied to the soles of the feet and kept on for eight and forty hours2 blisters were laid on the back and on the legs2 yet it was with difficulty that he could be awakened or excited to take nourishment or medicines4 ,in truth they were1 for the most part1 especially towards the conclusion of his illness1 poured into his mouth and swallowed instinctively1 without an effort of the will4 ,in this manner he took1 by dessert-spoonfuls1 more than a bottle of ,malaga wine a day1 and this for several days following4 ,on the last three days of his illness1 the quantity of musk administered was1 fifteen1 twenty1 twenty-five grains4 ,i mention these particulars for the purpose of showing how perilous was his state4 ,i have not medical knowledge enough to do justice to ,m4 ,breugne's treatment by any detail ,i could give of it4 ,during these last three days the anxiety of ,breugne was extreme4 ,i suspect by her uncertain answers to my questions1 that the old garde malade sleeps in the night3 let ,antoine sit up and watch the nurse4 ,we do not know precisely when the fever began1 but it must soon end3 the least negligence may be fatal4 ,at his first visits1 early in the morning1 he used to ask the servants1 ,ou en sommes nous8#hc before he would enter the chamber of the patient4 ,every thing portended his death4 ,his mother afterwards said to me1 ,i had taken out the sheet to bury him in2 it was as well for it to be ready4 ,breugne1 though he could neither feel nor give hope1 would not despair1 nor relax his efforts4 ,an unfavourable symptom occurred1--the breaking out of red spots on the skin4 ,it is all over1 said ,i to ,breugne2 the little girl1 whom ,i lost fifteen years ago1 had the same appearance the day before she died4--,il ne mourra pas pour cela2#hd and he did not die4 ,on the sixteenth of ,october1 in the evening1 the fever left him4 ,at this time1 ,breugne1 after a careful examination1 said1 ,il n'a rien--there is nothing the matter with him3 but wait till to-morrow morning2 it is too soon yet for me to assure you of his safety4 ,on the morrow1 ,breugne pronounced him out of danger4 ,it was pleasant to see with what delight1 with what affectionate exaltation1 he contemplated his patient1 standing by his bed-side1 taking snuff1 and hardly refraining from tears4 ,the patient1 who had been too weak to say any thing the evening before1 had now recovered a little strength and a little spirit of fun4 ,why does he not go away8 ,he has made his visit4 ,this was said to me in ,english4 ,breugne asked the meaning3 ,i told him1 and then said in ,french1 ,let ,mr4 ,breugne enjoy the view of the good he has done4 ,he did enjoy it most cordially and disinterestedly4 ,now came the difficulty to conceal from my restored and surviving son the death of his brother4 ,our mourning dress was accounted for1 by telling him that an aunt of his mother's had died and left her a large legacy2 and he was amused by discussing and settling how the legacy should be spent in ,italy4 ,often has his mother turned aside to hide her tears while answering his inquiries after his brother1 and while entering into details to make her accounts more credible4 ,such traits of heroism have been admired in a ,roman matron3 but heroism is more common than is usually supposed4 ,i said to him1 ,really we are very much obliged to you2 but for our waiting for your recovery1 we should now be on our road to ,italy4--,and my brother8 is he well enough for the journey8 ,i was stupified1 and unable so far to recover myself as to tell a falsehood4 ,he will be no hindrance4 ,a new alarm succeeded4 ,convalescence after such a malady1 uncured for during more than the first third of its period1 was no easy matter4 ,he will die after all1 said ,breugne1 of what the ,english physicians call phthisis in toto corpore4 ,i order for him exactly the quantity of food that may nourish him2 for it is not by what we eat1 but by what we can turn into nutriment1 that the body is supported4 ,the nurse has given him more than enough1 and the organs of nutrition cannot do their office with what surcharges them4 ,we must have him down stairs3 that old witch must not be left alone with him4 ,he had in fact asked ,goody ,grope1 as he called her1 to give him to eat2 and she1 after discharging her conscience by refusing1 ended by complying4 ,breugne made me observe that his pulse intermitted4 ,i counted thirty-nine pulsations2 the fortieth failed4 ,if he were descending into a malady1--,i cannot well translate his ,french1 as he hesitated in the choice of his words1--,i should call the symptom fatal2 but as he is rising from one1 it may not be of such evil omen--mauvais augure4 ,an inference may hence be drawn of no small import in the conduct of life4 ,how pernicious it must be1 even in health1 to eat too much2 since1 a case of debility supposed1 a little quantity more than enough hindered the nutritive effect of the food1 and in truth very nearly proved fatal6 ,my son was now about to become again one of the family4 ,two days before this took place1 ,i told him that his brother was gone into the country1 for change of air1 to the house of a friend whom ,i named4 ,i anticipated by two days1 lest the story should seem invented for the occasion4 ,on the first of ,november1 he was carried down stairs on a mattress1 and laid on a sofa1 while his bed was prepared in the cabinet by the side of the salon4 ,i will have him again put into bed as soon as possible1 said ,breugne2 le lit est la force du malade4#he ,his sisters were shocked at his appearance2 terror overcame their joy2 they seemed to doubt whether he too had not died and come forth again from the grave3 for myself1 ,i wondered where his muscles1 veins1 and arteries had retired1 so complete seemed the adhesion of the skin to the bones4 ,three days afterwards1 asses milk was ordered and found to agree with him2 and ,breugne cried out exultingly1 ,j'ai cinq sur sept pour moi4#hf ,this was1 however1 but little more than two to one in his favour4 ,many awkward circumstances might have led him to suspect the death of his brother4 ,the secret was now to be kept by six or seven persons whose looks betrayed it1 although their tongues were silent3 nay1 silence was itself of all circumstances the most suspicious4 ,i dictated a message to ,antoine as from the ,marquis de ----1 with whom ,kenelm was supposed to be living in the country4 ,this message was to convey a favourable account of his health1 and ,antoine was ordered to deliver it in the salon4 ,he had not courage to speak loud enough1 and ,i made a sign to him to talk so as to be heard by him in the cabinet3 this gave him the air of one acting a part4 ,the ,marquis and ,marquise entered soon after4 ,this was unlucky3 they could not have sent a message from their country-house while they were in the town4 ,they approached the door of the cabinet4 ,i said1 ,madame1 you bring us good news from your campagne8 ,through pity or astonishment at my resolution1 she had not the force to give any answer4 ,i said to ,m4 ,breugne1 ,what am ,i to do8 ,he suspects his brother's death3 he asked me yesterday1 ',why does he not write8 is he not well enough to write8' ,the suspicion will irritate his feelings1 and do him more harm than the certainty4 ,breugne said1 ,i will not take on myself the responsibility of advising you2 you must judge for yourself3 you know his character better than ,i do4 ,on the tenth of ,november ,i said to him1 ,you have had the same illness as your brother1 and have recovered from it4 ,your present illness is excessive weakness owing to your having been so long neglected2 there is no reason to fear the same-- ,incautiously in my perturbation ,i had gone further than ,i had intended to do at first4 ,this was enough3 the secret was revealed1 and we were relieved from this cruel embarrassment4 ,four weeks after the fever had left him1 he was able to walk a few steps4 ,a month is sufficient for complete convalescence after the typhus in ordinary cases4 ,on the twelfth of ,december he went out in a carriage4 ,on the twentieth ,i left my house for the purpose of selling my furniture by auction1 and went to the ,hotel d',europe for better air1 and to be near the promenade4 ,at this inn we staid ten days1 till the strength of the convalescent should be sufficiently restored to enable us to set out on our long-delayed journey4 ,at length ,i engaged a voiture1 having most happily found one1 as if made on purpose for my service1 new1 well-built and warm1 with stout horses1 and a respectable coachman4 ,to obtain a passport to quit ,france is a matter1 not of difficulty1 but of many formalities4 ,the demandant must first make his application to the municipality1 stating his reasons for leaving the kingdom1 the country to which he is going1 and the point at which he means to quit ,france4 ,the municipality notifies these particulars to the prefect1 who addresses himself to the minister for foreign affairs1 who1 after due perquisition at the legation of the country of the demandant1 if a foreigner1 7for the same formalities1 this inquiry excepted only1 are observed in regard to the ,french themselves17 authorizes the prefect to grant the passport required4 ,i stated that ,i was going to ,nice to restore the health of my son and of my afflicted family4 ,all that family had made frequent visits to the tomb of ,henry ,kenelm1 except his brother1 whose visit was to be one of farewell on the day before our departure from ,avignon1 which was now fixed for the last of the year4 ,on the #cjth of ,december1 a funeral was to take place at two in the afternoon3 the hour suited1 and we were willing1 as requested1 to take that opportunity of finding the gate of the cemetery open4 ,we went to the cemetery at the appointed hour2 the funeral was delayed till after sunset3 it would have been dangerous1 for one whose health was so imperfectly established1 to wait longer1 and expose himself to the cold of the evening2 and he quitted this city of death without being able to pay his last duties at the tomb of a beloved brother4 ,,footnotes3 #hb ,sir1 you must not do that3 the tapers connect the family with what is doing in the church4 #hc ,whereabouts are we8 #hd ,he will not die for that4 #he ,bed is the strength of a sick person4 #hf ,i have five to seven for me4 ,,chap4 ,,xx4 ,i have mentioned the strong emotion which ,i felt in passing through the village of ,st4 ,clair betwixt ,rouen and ,pontoise1 as also the surprise excited by the view of the features of an infant ,jesus drawn by my departed son immediately after his return from ,england4 ,it is now the proper time to explain to what ,i then referred4 ,in saying that ,i alluded to a dream1 ,i know that ,i expose myself to ridicule3 to pay regard to dreams is justly considered as a sign of imbecillity of mind1 and generally condemned as superstitious3 how far ,i may be exempted from these censures by the prophetic nature of my dream1 ,i leave to be determined by those who shall compare it with the events lately narrated1 which seem to me to form a striking and full interpretation of it4 ,i no more affect the character of a dreamer1 than that of a visionary3 but ,i am not deterred1 by the fear of being laughed at1 from believing1 in the case of the vision1 the evidence of my senses1 and that a dream1 portraying things future1 ought to be distinguished from the ordinary phenomena of that inexplicable faculty1 7if that which is involuntarily exercised may be called a faculty17 of our fearful and wonderful nature4 ,on ,thursday1 the #bgth of ,november1 #ahag1 being then at ,lincoln1 ,i dreamed that ,i was in a large1 lofty room1 which was entirely unknown to me4 ,in the month of ,october1 #ahah1 ,i hired a house at ,avignon in which was a salon1 exactly resembling that of the dream2 the situation of the doors1 windows1 and chimney1 and the appearance of them just the same4 ,a person came out of the cabinet by the side of this salon1 with whom ,i was unacquainted1 but whom ,i supposed to be an ,english catholic priest3 he wore a black coat1 and had boots on3 ,i did not observe that he had with him any hat3 he was of rather less than the middle age of life4 ,this person resembled in features and expression of countenance the infant ,jesus drawn1 three years afterwards1 by my elder son3 my recollection did not serve me to recognise the likeness till after ,i had seen my son's drawing from the engraving3 in the cabinet1 before-mentioned1 was usually hung a small crucifix4 ,this priest approached me in a serious1 but civil and friendly manner3 two chairs were near us1 not far from one of the windows3 ,i invited him to be seated4 ,the chairs were like those ,i had at ,avignon2 they were placed near the window3 had this scene been represented as in the winter season1 they would have been near the fire3 it was in the summer season that the events occurred1 which ,i suppose to have been now presignified4 ,as it was ,i who invited the other to sit down1 it seems that ,i thought myself to be in my own house4 ,the priest then said to me1 in a slow and distinct voice1 ,you are to found a new order in the church1 to be called ',the ,society of the ,penitents of ,st4 ,clair2' you know under what rule2 but not sub peccato2 he repeated not sub peccato1 and1 rising from his seat1 took out his watch1 an ordinary silver watch with small seals1 looked at it1 and returned it to its place3 then taking leave of me1 he passed1 not through the door of the stairs1 but into the second salon4 ,when the priest said1 ,you know the rule1 ,i understood to what he referred1 without further explanation oh his part4 ,when much younger than ,i was at this epoch1 ,i had thought of a rule of life1 on the observance of which it might be useful and desirable to form a society3 but ,i never had the presumption to conceive the idea of founding a new order in the church4 ,i will confess1 so little were my dispositions at this time penitential1 that when the word penitents was pronounced1 it was to me displeasing and repulsive4 ,i had regarded the rule which the priest said1 you know1 with a view to bodily health and temporal convenience1 not with any reference to religious mortification4 ,i had not thought of the rule for many years past1 and had always considered the formation of a society on the rule as an impracticable project4 ,st4 ,clair's name was unknown to me till ,i referred to ,butler's ,lives of the ,saints4 ,i had read of ,sta4 ,clara1 but was perfectly sure it was not she that was intended4 ,when the priest had left the room1 ,i saw1 seated and eating at a large round table1 placed1 not in the centre1 but towards one side of the room1 a young man1 whom ,i went up to1 and conversed with3 he talked to me of his sins1 and his penitential dispositions1 and wept much3 ,i asked him if he would observe the rule of the society1 not telling him what it was1 but supposing him to know it3 he answered in the affirmative1 but hesitatingly1 as if he knew he should be prevented4 ,his dress perplexed me2 it was white1 loose over his shoulders and before him2 without coat1 vest1 or waistcoat2 he seemed to have nothing on but this shapeless white mantle1 and his shirt4 ,he rose suddenly from the table at which he had continued to sit while talking with me3 his long white robe flowed behind him3 he gathered it up round his knees as he went away1 and passed through the door1 and hastily down stairs4 ,i had no such table in ,england as this here described1 but ,i had such an one at ,avignon4 ,i have remarked in my narrative1 that1 on the day of my son's death1 this table was pushed aside to make room for the sofa turned from the light by desire of my younger son4 ,i have spoken of the scruples of my elder son1 and of the distress and uneasiness they caused both to him and to me4 ,the dress of the young man with whom ,i conversed in my dream1 was1 in truth1 7though then ,i knew it not1 and had been accustomed to see another sort of mortuary clothing17 the habiliments of the dead in ,france4 ,i followed this young man to the top of the stairs3 my family1 or persons whom ,i considered as such1 were behind me3 the staircase was winding in such a manner that we could not see to the bottom of the stairs2 where we stood was a staircase to the second floor on the left hand2 a window to the right3 all this as at ,avignon4 ,as ,i stood looking down the stairs1 my younger son said to me1 ,i'll go after him3 accordingly he went quickly down the stairs4 ,at this interval1 looking through the window1 ,i saw a most beautiful garden1 with fruit-trees1 and a light as of the reflection of the brightest sunshine3 it was reflected sunshine2 the window is to the north4 ,my younger son came up stairs again1 and standing by me1 but turning to look down stairs1 and then turning to look at me1 said1 ,he is gone4 ,i have related that1 on the day of the death of my elder son1 the younger took to his bed1 ill of the same typhus fever2 and that1 during his illness1 that supernatural light was seen which assured us of the happy state of the elder4 ,the face of my younger1 when he spoke to me in the dream1 was nearly on a level with mine3 at the age at which he was at the time of the dream in #ahag1 he was not higher than my shoulder2 soon after his illness1 he grew to be taller than me1 but in #ahba his stature was such as it appeared in my dream4 ,we returned into the room3 those who had followed me to the top of the stairs were in deep mourning1 and it was understood we were about to undertake a long journey4 ,we set off for ,italy at the end of the year1 the eventful year #ahba4 ,i awoke1 and found it was near eight o'clock in the morning4 ,the scenes exhibited in this dream1 and the events prefigured by it1 according to my interpretation1 are here set in juxtaposition3 the impression it made on my apprehension was lively and distinct as reality itself4 ,i relate it1 because it is immediately connected with the subject of my narrative4 ,in the rule referred to by my imaginary interlocutor there is nothing that ,i desire to keep secret1 but to explain it at this time might be foreign to my purpose3 besides1 quicquid recipitur1 recipitur ad modum recipientis2 and ,i should be loth to intrude on any what they may not be willing to read4 ,dr4 ,johnson said1 ,there is often more in the title than in all the rest of the book2 but it may be unfair to put into a book what cannot in any wise be augured from the title4 ,yet1 as the rule was enjoined in a dream which had relation to my story1 as the knowledge of the rule may help to form an opinion of the nature and character of the dream itself1 and as moreover it may be told in very few words1 ,i will here declare it4 ,the three great enemies of youth and of mankind1--the three chief sources of moral evil1 of intellectual debility and derangement1 and of corporal sufferance--are1 sins against chastity1 drunkenness1 and gaming4 ,early in life1 ,i made this observation2 let any one1 who doubts the truth of it1 cast his eyes on the world4 ,dr4 ,cheyne's works on health and on regimen1 had persuaded me that animal food was pernicious to health and to all the faculties and dispositions which depend on health3 it excites and gratifies the appetite to such a degree1 that few1 very few1 feed upon it without gluttony4 ,let any one then observe chastity--abstain from animal food1 and from wine and vinous spirits1 renounce all play for money1 or engaging stakes on hazard1 and he will conform to the rule of the penitents of ,st4 ,clair4 ,when the priest said1 and repeated1 not sub peccato1 ,i of course understood him to mean1 not that chastity was not of precept and obligatory on all as a ,christian and moral virtue1 but that sins against it should not be aggravated by being an infraction of the rule4 ,the other parts of the rule regard things in themselves indifferent3 among the several persons whom ,i have known that abstained from animal food1 some there were who did so as believing it unlawful to take away life3 ,i admired their practice1 but disapproved their reasoning2 the ,author of ,life has himself permitted it3 on that ground it is justifiable2 though it might be an amusing question1 whence they who disbelieve all revelation derive authority to put to death these creatures except in case of self-defence1 as when attacked by a bear or a tiger4 ,the moderate use of alcohol is lawful1 medicinal even2 to interest and amuse ourselves by engaging a moderate stake on hazard is perfectly innocent2 but he who renounces vinous spirits and gaming1 strikes at the root of many mischiefs and many perturbations4 ,what ,i have related1 ,i have related as it happened3 the dream and the reference in the dream to my opinions1 could neither be sought for1 nor procured1 nor prepared by any act of mine3 my opinions here recorded have this merit1 that1 according to our ,lincolnshire phraseology1 they won't do nobody no harm1 and this is merit enough2 merit1 not negative1 but positive2 for the phrase always implies the expectation of a great benefit4 ,in the hope that they may do somebody some good1 ,i leave the matter to favourable or unfavourable acceptation2 and prepare to narrate my journey to ,nice1--that delicious climate1 where is1 ----ver perpetuum atque alienis mensibus aestas4 ,,chap4 ,,xxi4 ,we drove out of the western gate of ,avignon1 and immediately turned to the left hand4 ,i said mentally1 ,adieu1 my dear son6 may ,i and all this family be reunited to thee in a better world4 ,during the last six weeks we had in some degree recovered from the terror and affliction of the preceding period2 but a final separation from him we so tenderly and deservedly loved struck us with a feeling of depression1 which we endeavoured to surmount and disguise from each other lest the grief of one should be the grief of all4 ,are you well seated8 do you feel any cold8 and soon after1 ,how far is it to the bridge of the ,durance8 by such questions we tried in vain to conceal what the looks of all betrayed4 ,it was a relief to us to arrive at a country we had not yet seen4 ,antoine accompanied us3 in the year #ahac1 the year following the campaign of ,moscow1 being then of the age for military service1 he had been summoned to leave his native plains of ,picardy to fight under the banners of ,napoleon in the campaign of ,dresden4 ,vous l'avez vu1 l',empereur8 he was asked4 ,oui4--,ou donc8--,sur le champ de bataille sans doute4#hg ,antoine was one of those raw recruits1 who1 as ,napoleon declared1 fought more bravely than any men he had ever seen to fight during seventeen years1 that he had commanded the armies of ,france4 ,after the battles of ,lutzen and ,bautzen1 ,antoine was taken prisoner by the ,austrians in an affair near ,dresden1 and sent into the interior of their country4 ,into what part of their country8 ,i inquired of him4 ,i do not know4 ,i1 in my quality of inquisitive traveller1 expressed surprise at his want of curiosity1 and asked the names of the principal towns he had past through4 ,obliged to climb great hills1 loaded like a mule1 huddled with my comrades at night1 into a grenier1 ,i had something else to do than to amuse myself with inquiring the names of towns3 ,i do1 however1 remember that one town we were taken to was called ,pest4 ,it may be inferred that the hills he climbed were the ,carpathian mountains4 ,if the ,english public should find that they are overwhelmed by ,tours1 and ,travels1 and ,france1 and ,italy1 they have nothing to do but to send us all abroad with knapsacks on our backs4 ,fiat experimentum4 ,antoine was headstrong and full of jests1 but faithful1 honest1 and attached4 ,i think ,i pay him a great compliment when ,i say he resembled in character a ,milesian ,irishman4 ,on account of our invalid1 we were to travel by easy journeys3 ,aix was too far off for one day4 ,we slept at ,orgon1 the half-way house1 an ill-built inn1 where we found good fires1 good cooking1 and good beds4 ,the next morning the frost had set in3 ,i hurried the invalid into the coach1 and we turned our backs on the bise4 ,where we stopt at mid-day my children began to show some little expansion of good spirits3 it was ,new-year's-day1 and this calculation seemed to make the day different from those that had gone before4 ,their attempts at renewed hilarity manifested themselves in fantastical disputes about their repast4 ,we had taken tea and coffee in the morning3 ,i required a repetition of it3 some disliked the same thing over again2 some wanted fruit and their usual mid-day dessert2 others would have a dejeune a la fourchette4 ,it ended by ordering all that was asked for by all4 ,at ,orgon we passed through a room of the inn1 of which the windows were broken4 ,the door of our room could neither be shut nor opened without trouble and loss of time3 such are the miseries of human life in a fine climate3 in ,england these inconveniences would not be endured for an hour in the winter3 the glazier would be sent for in case of a broken pane as surely as water would be called for if the house were on fire4 ,i have been assured that1 if one could be contented to pass the winter without stirring out of doors1 he would feel less cold at ,st4 ,petersburgh than any where else in ,europe4 ,where nature does least for man1 man does most for himself4 ,ananas or pine-apples are reared at ,archangel3 ,i saw none in the south of ,france or ,tuscany4 ,our anomalous repast detained us too long1 and it was almost dark when we arrived1 at five o'clock1 at a handsome1 palace-like-looking inn1 on the ,corso at ,aix4 ,it is a pleasant1 airy1 well-built town1 so surrounded by hills1 that1 in our walks next morning1 we felt no cold4 ,i expected to find hot baths here1 but was somewhat surprised to see a great basin of hot water in the ,corso1 at which1 as well as at other fountains in different parts of the town1 the washer-women ply their trade without the expense of fuel3 clean linen may here be called1 by a perverted application of ,burke's phrase1 the unbought grace of life4 ,the public baths are not so convenient nor on so large a scale as ,i expected4 ,we took a cursory view of ,roman remains of ,aquae ,sextiae4 ,to the cathedral1 a fine old structure1 is annexed a curious and perfect ancient temple which serves as the baptistery4 ,in the afternoon of this day we proceeded to ,marseilles4 ,i drove to the ,hotel ,beauveau3 they showed me two handsome salons1 one of them with two beds in it3 ,i wanted more beds in the other salon1 which they promised to put up3 ,i doubted what sort of beds these might be1 and1 in an unlucky moment of distrust1 went away to the ,hotel des ,empereurs4 ,every thing at the ,hotel ,beauveau bespoke civility and good management2 at the ,hotel des ,empereurs every thing was quite the reverse4 ,i had intended to pass a week at ,marseilles3 the badness of this inn determined me to stay but one whole day4 ,that day was excessively cold2 the bise had followed us1 and had established itself in full force3 ,i trembled for my invalid2 he was in high spirits1 and would not stay within doors2 he was in the right1 for it would have been impossible to make the atmosphere within doors warmer than it was without1 unless we had made fires of all the fine pieces of mahogany furniture which garnished our apartment4 ,i endeavour to make my accounts of towns and objects of curiosity ample enough for those who are not acquainted with them1 and not too long for those who are3 ,i may fail of both the ends proposed2 a common result of mean measures3 but ,i proceed1 though ,i well know that a writer more frequently meets with censure than indulgence3 if self-love prompts him to write1 woe be to the poor author4 ,my motive for writing may perhaps by this time be guessed at1 and will form an item of additional reproach4 ,marseilles1 except that it is built of stone1 7a circumstance hardly necessary to be particularized in a country where bricks are almost unknown17 is very like ,liverpool1 a nucleus of trade and dirt1 surrounded by handsome1 airy1 well-built streets3 it is more populous than ,liverpool1 but does not cover so much ground4 ,the port is admirably secure3 a few days before our arrival1 a tremendous storm had committed very great ravages along the whole coast from ,spain to the gulf of ,spezia4 ,the shipping in the harbour of ,marseilles had continued perfectly sheltered and unhurt1 while1 on the ,genoese coast1 vessels had been driven from their anchors1 and stranded4 ,on one side of the port are lofty warehouses2 on the other1 rich and splendid shops4 ,the ,hotel de ,ville is a very handsome building1 with a magnificent marble staircase1 too grand indeed for the rooms to which it leads4 ,the celebrated picture of the plague seems to have derived its fame from the interest excited by its subject3 it is well executed1 but without perspective2 the people are dying all up the wall of canvass2 the archbishop1 ,m4 de ,belzunce1 is1 of course1 a prominent object4 ,his nephew1 chief of the department for provisioning ,paris1 was1 at the beginning of the revolution1 the first victim of the fury of the ,parisian mob1 and ,belzuncer quelqu'un1 was for some little time a favourite form of menace1 or of boast2 but the name was soon lost in a crowd of followers4 ,they showed us1 what they thought it would give us great amusement to see1 the room in which is performed the civil contract of marriage before the municipality3 what pleasure they expected us to derive from the sight ,i cannot tell4 ,in another room is a portrait of ,louis ,,xiv at full length1 in armour1 with a fine flowing wig3 this costume did not then appear so absurd as now it does2 besides his wig was1 to ,louis ,,xiv1 essential and individual2 he never was seen without it2 at night he gave it to his page1 in the morning he received it from his page1 through the curtains of his bed4 ,an academy of painting and sculpture had lately been instituted1 which seemed prosperous2 as much so as such an institution is likely to be in any other town than the capital4 ,more attention seems to be paid in ,france to the fine arts than to literature4 ,the members of the five hundred book-clubs of ,england will be surprised to learn that1 as far as my information reaches1 no similar establishment exists in ,france4 ,we were told1 as usual in such cases1 of other objects of curiosity2 but some were too distant4 ,of those which we had visited1 some had not been worth the pains1 and we feared that others might disappoint us equally4 ,we had put off hunger by eating some excellent confectionary1 but our dinner was ordered to be ready as soon as it should be dark1 and the mistress of the ,empereurs1--there is no scandal in the title2 she was not such for her beauty4 ,in plain ,english1 our landlady1 had promised us a good dinner to make amends for the bad one of the day before1 for which she had offered an excuse1 which ,i had rejected as unworthy of a great inn in a great city1--that she was not prepared4 ,we now hoped to benefit by her preparations4 ,the fish was excellent1 thanks to the sea at hand3 the meat1 had it made part of our hesternal meal1 would not have advanced so near to putridity3 besides1 it was raw4 ,say what you will1 you cannot persuade a foreign cook but that the ,english like raw meat2 so that we were obliged to accept it as a mark of deference to our national taste4 ,the fowls--this day there had been time to search the market for the worst4 ,a dish of douceur followed1 which made me regret the batter pudding and ,lincolnshire dip1 composed of coarse sugar1 melted butter1 and vinegar1 which ,i had enjoyed when a school-boy4 ,the wine was sour2 they told me it was vin ordinaire2 ,i asked for some extraordinaire2 it was extraordinarily bad3 it is good logic in this case1 as well as in others1 to argue from universals to particulars4 ,indeed1 it is as rare to meet with good wine at an inn in ,france1 as at an inn in ,england2 in which latter country1 as a ,frenchman told me1 they got drunk with vins etrangers4#hh ,on this occasion1 ,i blinked the question of ,english ebriety1 by saying that if they got drunk with wine1 they must do so with vin etranger1 as they had none of their own3 but foreign wine is as much a luxury in ,france as if that country was not under the patronage of the jolly god4 ,at the ,hotel des ,empereurs1--for1 notwithstanding this digression1 ,i am1 to my sorrow1 still there1--,i asked in the evening for pen and ink3 they brought me a pen and some ink in a little phial1 with an intimation that it cost three sous4 ,my reader will1 ,i hope1 do me the justice to observe that ,i have arrived at the shores of the ,mediterranean without having made any complaint in detail of grievances endured at any inn4 ,i flatter myself that ,i am in this respect a singular instance of patience and moderation4 ,i have been desirous of giving one example of my talent in this way1 and promise henceforward to forbear4 ,cuges was our next sleeping place1 ,toulon1 like ,aix1 being too far for a day's journey4 ,cuges is a little town with a tolerable inn4 ,here the weather changed to rain2 the air became mild1 and1 for this season1 we took leave of winter on the third of ,january4 ,we were now on the road to ,toulon4 ,i have travelled over the ,highlands of ,scotland1 over the hills of ,derbyshire1 and those which separate ,lancashire from the counties to the eastward of it2 countries well worth visiting by those who seek for the wonders of nature further from home2 but in this day's journey1 all that ,i had before seen in the same kind was exceeded4 ,the picturesque rises into the romantic1 and the romantic into the savage4 ,we passed through gullies1 where the torrent-river that ran by the side of the road seemed not merely to have formed1 but to have scooped out for itself a passage under rocks which1 at a great height above1 overhung the road and the torrent1 and threatened to fall in and fill up the narrow space below4 ,day-light descended to us through an irregular ragged fissure1 which seemed as if broken through expressly for the purpose1 so nearly did this defile resemble an under-ground passage4 ,at last we emerged from clefts and chasms into an open space1 and had a view of ,toulon before us4 ,as we entered the town1 we saw1 in some sheltered spots1 orange-trees1 in full bearing1 in the open earth3 in the open air they are seen in ,paris2 planted in boxes1 they bear fruit at ,avignon2 here they are children of the soil4 ,we were pleased with ,toulon1 and loitered here two whole days4 ,the town1 though a fortress1 is a pretty and a cheerful-looking place4 ,the streams of water conducted through the streets1 give it an air of healthiness and cleanliness4 ,in the evening we braved on the promenade the cannon of the fortifications1 and1 our love of science being equal to our courage1 visited the botanical garden1 very wisely provided here by the government3 it is much smaller than that of ,paris2 but1 by the help of the climate1 surpasses it in the possession of rare exotics4 ,some traveller 7,i think ,eustace17 says that palm-trees are not to be found in the open air any where to the north of ,rome1 and that at ,rome there are but two1 remarkably placed on a hill visible to the whole city3 these two ,i saw not1 and ,i saw palm-trees in the botanical garden at ,toulon4 ,the next day was ,sunday3 it was passed in viewing the town and its immediate environs1 and in pour-parleys about a visit to the arsenal3 a ticket for this purpose was offered on condition that we should pass ourselves for ,french4 ,besides the disagreeable consequences that might justly have followed the discovery of such an imposition1 the trick itself appeared to me dishonourable4 ,the next morning my convalescent1 now rapidly recovering health and strength1 mounted the heights above ,toulon1 and1 placing himself under the shelter of a ruined building1 sketched the scene before him4 ,the elevation gave us almost a bird's-eye view of ,toulon and its ports3 islands or promontories that1 on account of the winding of the shore1 looked like islands1 were seen at a distance4 ,nothing ever called up to my imagination and memory such a crowd of ideas and recollections1 as did the view of this great inland sea which washes the shores of ,greece1 into which the waters of the ,nile discharge themselves1 and which reposes at the foot of ,lebanon and ,carmel4 ,we were at this time ,fill'd with ideas of fair ,italy1 and it lay but a little on our left-hand4 ,in a few months we shall be there4 ,i had purposed to visit ,hyeres1 about six miles distant1 but was deterred by what was told me of the badness of the road3 it is a winter colony planted by the ,english1 a sort of succursal to ,nice4 ,it has not the advantage of being near the sea1 but is at three miles from it4 ,i have met with those who have wintered there with much satisfaction4 ,many lodging-houses had lately been run up for visitants4 ,in the afternoon of the third day we left ,toulon4 ,the next day brought us to the point where the cross-road from ,toulon joins that which leads directly from ,aix to ,nice4 ,the inns were better1 but the roads were still bad4 ,it is not for want of money1 said they2 government supplies that in plenty2 mais l'ingenieur donne a manger a l'inspecteur1 et tout est fini4#hi ,at ,frejus ,i wished to take a hasty dinner1 as we had to pass the foret d',estrelles3 they kept me waiting for it two hours and a half2 in this time ,i might have examined the aqueducts and other antiquities1 which ,i saw only in passing4 ,the aqueducts seemed more ruined than those of ,rome1 but in other respects as like as one arch is to another arch of the same span4 ,the foret d',estrelles exhibits all the grandeur of the ,alps united with all the beauty of cultivation1 every variety of prospect1 hill and dale1 and wood1 and rock1 and the distant sea4 ,so much did we enjoy the scene before and around us1 that we thought but little of the danger that awaited us4 ,a river was to be crossed before we could reach ,cannes2 we had received some intimation that it was probable the bridge was broken down by the swell occasioned by the late rains3 our coachman was well aware that the bridges of this country were usually insecure2 ,when they tumble down1 said he1 they build them up again4 ,on descending the foret d',estrelles1 which it had taken us three hours to mount and to pass1 certain information was given us1 that the bridge had been carried away2 but1 if your horses are stout1 there will be no danger in fording the river4 ,we had lost time at ,frejus1 as always happens when time is wanted1 or as is always then observed to happen1 and were too late by half an hour4 ,it was so nearly dark when we arrived at the river1 that the coachman1 following the road1 hardly perceived when he reached the place where the bridge had been2 the horses stopped however of themselves4 ,we got out of the carriage1 while it was turned off the road1 towards the ford4 ,at this moment ,antoine launched some jest or other1 which provoked me to say1 ,vous plaisantez tout a votre aise3 vous etes seul4--,moi seul8 ,ai-je merite cela8#ij ,he felt the reproach as unjust1 and so did ,i1 and made my excuses2 he admitted that his pleasantry was unseasonable2 and we proceeded to cross the ford1 having got some peasants to help us4 ,my eldest daughter and ,i were in the cabriolet1 the rest of the family in the coach1 ,antoine on the coachman's seat4 ,the bank by which we went down into the river was not steep2 but1 in ascending the opposite bank1 ,i felt the carriage to be balanced in such a way that ,i fully expected it to fall sideways before it could get clear out of the water2 it required all the force of ,antoine and the peasants1 pulling at a rope tied to the carriage1 to prevent this1 and keep it on all its wheels4 ,it was a fearful moment4 ,it was not likely that any lives would be lost1 so much help was at hand2 but what evil might be the consequence of an overthrow in the water1--especially to one who had but just recovered from three months' illness6 ,when we had got on solid ground and reached the road again1 we found large blocks of stone1 for the reparation of the bridge1 lying in the way3 we were again obliged to dismount and thread our way through the midst of these as well as we could1 while the carriage went over uneven ground by the side of the road4 ,the moon rose as we reached the inn at ,cannes1 thankful to that good ,providence which had delivered us from danger4 ,this danger was not in crossing the stream1 for the waters had abated since they had carried away the bridge1 and did not come up to the bottom of the coach3 the bed of the river too was good road2 a cart came across just before we went in2 but in climbing the steep bank1 had not ,antoine1 who had leaped from his seat over the horses' backs1 and the peasants who had waded through the river1 held the rope very steadily in the direction opposite to that to which the coach inclined1 it must inevitably have fallen4 ,when the fore-wheels got on the bank1 ,i was so satisfied1 though still alarmed1 that ,i would almost have compounded for an overturn on dry land2 the coachman1 however1 who conducted himself perfectly well1 as a man and a minister1 had the pleasure of saving from scaith and harm both his fare and equipage4 ,the sea dashed on the shore close under the windows of our apartment at ,cannes2 we saw the reflection of the moon-light on the rippling waves2 the climate seemed still to improve2 after mutual congratulation1 and a cheerful meal1 we retired contentedly to rest4 ,,footnotes3 #hg ,have you seen the ,emperor8--,yes4--,where8--,on the field of battle1 of course4 #hh ,foreign wines4 #hi ,but the engineer gives a dinner to the inspector1 and all is ended4 #ij ,you are joking very composedly2 you are alone4--,me alone8 have ,i deserved that8 ,,chap4 ,,xxii4 ,it had been my plan to make this journey resemble as much as possible an excursion of pleasure and curiosity1 in the hope of doing away the melancholy impression of our sufferings and prison at ,avignon4 ,i said to my family at ,cannes1 ,it is ten leagues to ,nice1 but we will not make a toil of it2 we will divide the rest of our journey into two days1 taking an airing of fifteen miles each day before dinner4 ,my agreement with my coachman admitted of this arrangement2 ,i was to pay him thirty francs a day for each day of journey2 eighteen francs for a day of rest2 and twenty-five francs a day for the six days required for his own return1 by the direct road to ,avignon4 ,he agreed to consider the two days to be employed in going ten leagues1 as one day of advance and one of repose4 ,after breakfast we basked on the sunny sandbank that rises from the shore1 and gathered sea-shells4 ,by the by1 ,scipio and ,laelius must have had very bad sport in this way2 for the ,mediterranean1 having no tide1 brings up very few of these pretty baubles2 no wonder that they took to ducks and drakes1 as a supplementary recreation4 ,we went to the little town of ,cannes1 and saw a rope tied to the bell in the tower of the church1 and1 most commodiously for the priest1 conducted into his house close by3 ,with that1 said ,antoine1 ,m4 le ,cure sonne les sourds4#ia ,i met a very old man who asked for alms2 ,i was in a disposition1 not only to grant his request1 but to enter into conversation with him1 and inquired of him how old he was3 ,quel age avez-vous8#ib ,the words were perfectly unintelligible to him4 ,a lad of twelve years old1 who had heard the question1 volunteered as interpreter3 ,quanti anni ai8 said he to the old man2 and yet we were not in ,italy4 ,i have had frequent occasion to remark that the language of ,france1 as that country draws near to ,germany1 ,italy1 or ,spain1 is shadowed off into the dialect of those three great limitrophe nations3 on the frontiers of every continental nation1 the same gradual melting of the languages of neighbouring people into each other must necessarily take place4 ,in ,england1 ,i believe the patois of the several districts to have been derived from the divisions of the ,saxon ,heptarchy2 the midland counties1 or kingdom of ,mercia1 have nearly the same dialect2 but the language of ,oxfordshire begins to resemble that of the west2 while that of ,lincolnshire1 7a proof of my skill in which ,i have already given17 is like that of ,yorkshire1 except in the pronunciation of the vowels4 ,we set off at mid-day4 ,our road lay on a low cliff near the sea4 ,antoine1 who had crossed the ,rhine1 the ,elbe1 the ,danube1 and the ,rhone1 had never seen the sea till he came on this journey3 he persisted in calling it the ,rhone1 and this ,rhone1 said he1 goes to ,england4 ,yes1 said ,i1 and to the other side of ,france3 you may embark on this ,rhone1 and land at ,calais in ,picardy1 your own country4 ,he called it the ,rhone1 by the name of the last great river he had seen2 as ,i have read somewhere that the dispersed tribes after the ,deluge called every great river they came to1 ,phraat1 ,euphrates4 ,i know not what idea was working in ,antoine's mind3 perhaps it is natural to man to regard the sea as a river3 it is to be presumed that ,homer so considered it1 since1 after mentioning the names of a few of the great rivers known in his limited geography1 he adds1 ,greek3 ,oude bathurreitao mega sthenos okeanoio44 ,i remember mentioning this opinion of ,homer to ,archdeacon ,paley4 ,why1 said he1 that is the modern theory of the tides2 that the ocean is nothing else but a great river1 and that the tides are the current of this river1 which1 having no where else to flow1 flows into and upon itself4--,strange1 said ,i1 that the extremes of ignorance and science should thus meet6 ,i made an objection to the theory on account of the increase and decrease of the tides according to the age of the moon3 ,i forget his reply3 he had not proposed the notion as his own1 and had no need to defend it as such4 ,after proceeding about two miles1 we perceived a large stone reared upright on the beach3 this rude pillar marked the landing-place of ,napoleon from ,elba4 ,i care nothing about politics3 ,i am of the opinion of ,plato1 that mankind are not worthy that a wise man1 7meaning himself or me17 should meddle with their affairs3 the history of the last war ,i read with the same temper as ,i should read that of the three ,punic or the ,peloponnesian3 ,i will remark only that1 if ,napoleon was not to be trusted1 it was very silly to leave him at ,elba2 and1 if he was to be trusted1 he should have been treated as trust-worthy1 and every vestige of resentment against him effaced1 and nothing done that would make him feel as if relegated into a little island1 or give him reason to dread further restraint3 that the importance of leaving to him the title of ,emperor was not duly weighed2 as it ought to have been evident1 that1 if not honestly recognised by his enemies1 this title would serve as a sign of rallying to his friends4 ,this ,emperor on landing summoned the fortress of ,antibes3 the officer commanding the garrison for the time1 in the absence of his superior1 returned an answer that he had received no orders4 ,i was personally acquainted with this officer2 he was the general commanding the department of ,vaucluse during the former part of my residence at ,avignon4 ,failing in this attempt on ,antibes1 ,napoleon immediately struck into the country over the hills covered with olive trees1 the high land that rises above the beach4 ,we proceeded to ,antibes1 which opened its gate to us without any difficulty4 ,we found a good inn1 walked on the fortifications and about the town till sunset1 and1 after an ,english breakfast the next morning1 7for we carried tea with us17 on the thirteenth day after our departure from ,avignon1 set off for ,nice3 we passed through a pleasant country1 and soon arrived at the right bank of the ,var1 the political1 but not the natural limit of ,france4 ,i had some thoughts of making an apology for calling my book a narrative of four years residence in ,france1 when four months of that time were to be passed out of that kingdom2 but any one who will give himself the trouble of coming to the banks of the ,var1 will see that all explanation on this head is superfluous3 or1 if he does not like so much personal fatigue1 let him place himself there in imagination3 he will see the stony bed of a torrent half a mile broad1 not a twentieth part of which bed is covered with water4 ,at two thirds of the distance from the right bank he will see a stream large enough to be called a river1 of no great depth1 but of great force and violence4 ,immediately beyond the left bank he will see a fertile country resembling that he has just past1 and uniting with it but for the expanse of white stones4 ,let him then cast his eyes on the awful1 frowning barrier of ,italy1--those ,alps with their rugged sides and lofty snow-covered tops1 a barrier to all appearance impervious to any thing but the flight of an eagle2 he will allow that it would be as easy to bring the ,alps themselves to the left bank of the ,var1 which1 though they are but six miles off1 would be an enterprise of toil1 as to imagine that he had left ,france on entering the county of ,nice4 ,we had time given to us to enjoy this magnificent spectacle1 and to feast our minds with the expectation of what we should see beyond those perpetual hills1 those everlasting mountains1 which we already wished to pass4 ,we waited for the douanier1 the custom-house officer1 a civil and intelligent man1 who had nothing to do with us but to countersign our passport3 the more we took out of ,france1 the better for its manufacturers4 ,it would not be difficult to prove1--,adam ,smith has proved it1--that it would be as wise to permit unrestricted1 ,i do not say untaxed1 importation as exportation1 nor to show that the prohibition of it is an act of injustice towards the community at large2 but governments are balloted about by contending interests1 and compelled to interfere in things out of their province1 alien from those objects for which they are constituted4 ,while the ,french were in possession of the ,department des ,alpes ,maritimes1 they began a stone bridge over the ,var4 ,the wall from which the first arch was to spring is seen on their bank1 and bears testimony to their zeal for improvement4 ,we went on the wooden bridge1 and passed a pallisade guarded by ,french sentinels4 ,we were now in the dominions of the ,king of ,sardinia4 ,the first man ,i met was an intendant or surveyor of the carpenters1 whom ,i saw in great numbers at work on the bridge4 ,he accosted me3 ,monsieur1 il faut descendre de voiture1 decharger la voiture1 faire porter les malles et mener les chevaux1 et traverser a pied le pont2 il est en l'air1 suspendu par des cordes4#ic ,the invitation1 though very civilly given1 and with due regard to our safety as well as that of the bridge1 was somewhat alarming4 ,the fact was that the storm of the twenty-seventh of ,december had come in time to make us regret that the bridge of stone1 undertaken by the ,french had been left incomplete4 ,this storm had broken the wooden bridge1 the parts of which were now tied together by cords while undergoing reparation2 so that it was necessary to divide and lighten as much as possible the weight of our carriage4 ,this was done2 and1 with this measure of precaution1 each portion of our load got well over3 yet ,i cannot help1 in defiance of the proverb1 speaking ill of the bridge4 ,the ,var is not a military barrier3 why do not the two governments revive the abandoned enterprise of a stone bridge with a tete de pont and toll at each end8 ,the approach to ,nice on this side is through a quarter consisting almost entirely of villas or country-houses let to visitants4 ,the quarter is called de la ,croix de ,marbre1 from a large marble crucifix placed at the side of the road about a mile from ,nice3 it is situated lower1 and is1 in consequence1 warmer than the town2 but the ground floors of the houses are sometimes flooded by rains4 ,here we began to see all the pride1 pomp1 and circumstance of an ,english watering-place2--carriages open and close2 ladies riding on donkies2 parties on foot and on horseback2 footmen lounging at the doors of the houses2 and grooms dressing horses at the doors of the stables4 ,we saw also orange trees laden with fruit4 ,we arrived at a bridge over another white and stony bed of a torrent1 in which we could hardly perceive any water2 there was a stream however over which people on foot were crossing by stepping-stones4 ,we were set down at the ,hotel des ,etrangers1--an excellent inn4 ,the next day ,i went to the police to take my carte de surete1 or sejour1 and was informed that there were at this time at ,nice seventy foreign families1 of which forty families were ,english4 ,i left my card at the commandant's3 he returned his card with a note1 containing an invitation to a weekly ball at the ,hotel du ,gouvernement4 ,a certain sum is allowed by the king for frais de reception4 ,the acts of the government are in the ,italian language2 but ,french is universally spoken1 not only in society1 but in the shops and in the streets4 ,in truth1 ,i did not hear a word of ,italian spoken while ,i was at ,nice1 except by my children's ,italian master4 ,the people have a patois1 not quite such pure ,italian as ,i heard at ,cannes4 ,not liking the quarter of the ,croix de ,marbre on account of its distance from the town1 ,i took a house in an airy situation1 looking towards the sea1 and into the great square1 at one time called ,place ,napoleon1 but now ,place ,victor4 ,the usual price for a house or lodging for a large family for the whole of the season1 from the first of ,november to the first of ,may1 is a hundred louis4 ,i agreed to pay for mine twelve hundred francs from the sixteenth of ,january to the end of the season4 ,its proprietor was a ,french general1 who had served with great reputation in ,italy and ,egypt1 had lost an arm1 and had been appointed commandant of ,nice1 where1 second only to the prefet of the department1 he had given fetes and balls in this house1 which he now found it convenient to let1 and live in a small one by the side of it4 ,when the ,french troops evacuated ,nice1 a party of them wanted to pillage the town2 he had prevented this evil1 and1 as a reward for the service thus rendered1 the ,king of ,sardinia had permitted him to live in the city1 when other ,french officers were1 of course1 obliged to leave it4 ,he told me1 ,i am not ashamed to say1 that all that ,i have gained1 ,i have gained on the field of battle4 ,that all was not much1--his half-pay as general1 and the appointment annexed to the cross of the legion of honour4 ,when colonel1 he had received a sabre d'honneur1 to which a pension of six thousand francs was attached2 but the pension had been withdrawn4 ,he still was able to show the sabre2 it was an ordinary arm1 with an inscription on it4 ,he was an ,alsatian by birth1 and talked with the accent of his country1 saying of his former commander1 whom he enthusiastically admired1 ,ponaparte etoit un crant sheneral4 ,his conversation and anecdotes were amusing4 ,it was now the beginning of ,carnival4 ,our recent loss left us no disposition1 and our mourning dress made it unsuitable for us1 to appear in large societies4 ,i used to go1 without any of my family1 and stay for about an hour at those parties to which we were invited1 that ,i might not be wanting to attentions thus paid us4 ,promenades in the delightful environs of ,nice1 lessons in music and ,italian1 and small companies in the evening1 occupied and amused us till the beginning of ,lent4 ,balls were then succeeded by concerts3 even the gay were serious1 and sadness might partake of the sober diversions then going forwards4 ,the daily improving health and increasing strength of our convalescent gave us continual satisfaction2 and1 though our abode at ,nice was as dull as a sojourn under such a sky can be supposed to be1 yet we were contented to perceive that we did not fail of the main purpose for which we had fled the rough blasts of the north1 and sought the soft breezes of this sheltered situation and genial climate4 ,,footnotes3 #ia ,with that ,m4 le ,cure calls the deaf4 #ib ,how old are you8 #ic ,sir1 you must all leave the carriage1 unload it1 and go over on foot2 your trunks must be carried over after you2 and the horses will be led gently across3 the bridge is suspended in the air by cords4 ,,chap4 ,,xxiii4 ,the town of ,nice is in the form of a triangle1 of which the base rests on the sea2 one of its sides is a rampart or raised road against the ,paion1 the other is a road from ,place ,victor to the ,port4 ,one side of ,place ,victor forms part of the line of the third side of this triangle2 but the ,place itself is an excrescence from it3 it is a large handsome square with arcades4 ,within this triangle1 to the south-east corner1 is a high rocky hill1 fortified and commanding the port and town2 commanding also1 what interested me more than its artillery1 most superb points of view4 ,here my landlord1 the general1 had a garden to which he climbed daily2 and ,i used to see him coming down the steep with lettuces in his only remaining hand1 and his cane suspended to the button of his coat4 ,many improvements were at this time carrying on at ,nice3 a new bridge was building over the ,paion1 the torrent river1 which1 though ,i never saw it fuller of water than ,i have at first described1 bears with it the horned flood on the melting of the snows and the descending of the rain from the ,alps4 ,the galley slaves were employed in blowing up the bottom of the rock on its east and south sides to obtain space for continuing the line of houses from ,place ,victor to the port1 and from the port to the ,corso4 ,this ,corso is a short1 dark1 damp promenade1 from which the view and the air of the sea are excluded by the terrace4 ,the terrace is nothing more than a flat roof of a line of shops and stables1 on which you may walk1 at the height of about fifteen or twenty feet from the ground1 exposed to the heat of the sun1 which1 even in winter1 is too powerful to be agreeable1 and blinded by the reflection of its rays from the sea4 ,in the evenings of winter it is too cold to walk on this terrace3 in the evenings of summer1 that is1 in ,april1 it is pleasant1 but not so pleasant as would be a gravel walk on the beach1 which will1 ,i hope1 in due time replace it4 ,by taking away the terrace1 the value of the houses on the ,corso would be doubled3 en attendant1 you have the choice of walking on the ,corso without sea air1 or on the terrace without shade4 ,i have spoken at some length on the subject of this terrace1 because ,i know it to be much admired4 ,i am always most happy to be of the same opinion as the enlightened public1 when ,i think this public to be in the right1 and in this1 as in other cases1 hold myself bound to give my reasons for differing from it4 ,the centre of ,nice consists of very narrow streets and very lofty houses4 ,the square of ,st4 ,dominique however is large and handsome1 and there are some good1 well-built streets in its neighbourhood4 ,from the side or from the end of very many of the best houses of ,nice jut forth little square buildings at the height of the several stories3 these buildings would seem as if suspended in the air1 but that the fourth side of each is formed by that of the house itself2 and in this fourth side1 that is1 in the wall of the house1 there is1 no doubt1 a door of communication with these cabinets3 from the bottom of each of these closets proceeds a tunnel or pipe1 which is attached to the side or inserted into the wall of the house1 and so conducted to a reservoir below4 ,these reservoirs are small1 and1 by consequence1 must be frequently opened3 their contents form an article of precious and of tasteful commerce to the gardeners of ,nice4 ,the word tasteful is not to be understood in a metaphorical sense2 as ,i was assured by an eye-witness of the fact that he had seen a gardener put his finger first into the article offered for sale1 and then into his mouth1 that a third of his five senses might bear witness to its strength1 in addition to the testimony of his eyes and nose4 ,the gardeners of ,nice1 to their credit be it spoken1 are so profuse in the dispersion of this fertilizing substance1 that some sensitive ,english1 who remained there during the summer1 complained of the odour as an intolerable nuisance4 ,the ,nissard plan for having these conveniences at once within and without the house1 and for giving to each story or flat1 as it is called in ,edinburgh1--a city to which one's thoughts cannot but revert while engaged on this subject1--the ,nissard plan1 is ingenious enough3 there is nothing against it but the look of the thing3 and qu'est ce que cela fait8#id ,all the world knows1 both in ,france and ,england1 that such things must be2 the only difference is1 that in ,england nobody allows it1 while in ,france nobody denies it4 ,the ,french seem to me in this respect to be the nicer people of the two4 ,an ,english friend told me that1 being at ,toulon1 after breakfast he inquired of the femme de chambre1 7for in ,france no one scruples mentioning such things to a female17 the way to ,no4 #ajj4 ,she told him there was none in the house2 ,mais dans la rue la1 vis-a-vis1 pres du port il y a une commodite3 cela vous coutera un sous3 mais si vous resterez ici quelque tems1 on peut s'abonner4#ie ,strange that none of the great cities of civilized ,europe have yet adopted the plan of ,pekin1 which probably is also that of other cities of ,china6 ,one cannot wonder that the proportion of mortality between the town and the country is as seven to six2 the wonder is that it is not greater3 for every twentieth inhabitant of a great town1 the calculation is moderate2 a reservoir1 perpetually to be supplied1 must be provided4 ,fifty thousand for ,london6 ,at ,pekin the treasures of each day are carried away early in the morning of the day following1 by carts that come from the country for that purpose2 and the valet-de-chambre of the ,mandarin and the ,mandariness's lady's-maid quarrel for the perquisite1 while the skill of the ,chinese artisan is taxed to the utmost to make close stools1 nay1 very close stools4 ,i hope it will be granted that ,i have acquitted myself in this delicate investigation with all possible decorum1 and that ,dean ,swift himself could not have done better4 ,his affected naivete and matter-of-fact simplicity1 in telling of the labour of the ,lilliputians1 in carrying away the ordure of ,quinbus ,flestrin1 and numberless passages of his works1 show how little he prized the drapery furnished from the wardrobe of a moral imagination1 which the heart owns and the understanding ratifies as necessary to cover the nakedness of our weak shivering nature1 and raise it to dignity in its own estimation4 ,i am well aware1 as well as any one who may reproach me therewith1 that my book contains many things disparate2 but such is the real history of human life3 by this reality ,i am justified3 and1 in discussing this last subject1 ,i have endeavoured to preserve decency1 while avoiding fastidiousness4 ,the ,english have a notion that the ,carnival in catholic countries is instituted to make amends1 by anticipation1 for the austerities of ,lent3 it is no institution2 it is merely that season of the year in which society can most conveniently be reunited2 and1 as this season is interrupted and curtailed by ,lent1 parties1 and balls1 and fetes come more nearly on each other than they need do in countries where ,lent is but little observed4 ,in ,france1 the ,carnival makes very little difference in the amusements of the common people3 at ,nice they parade the streets in masks1 with music1 and dance1 and play fools' tricks4 ,i was looking at a party of these3 an ,anglican clergyman stood near me1 and took occasion to observe1 ,this does no great honour to the catholic religion4 ,i replied1 ,it has no more to do with the catholic religion1 than with the discovery of the longitude4 ,these people were all sober1 and each one was diverting himself innocently1 for the same cause that induced ,lady ,a4 to go to ,naples at a certain season2 that is1 because others did so at that time4 ,here first ,i saw ,franciscans and other religious1 walking about in their proper habits4 ,i had seen but one in ,france1 a ,carthusian or ,trappist1 at the house of the bishop of ,avignon3 he was taking leave as ,i entered4 ,the bishop1 an old man of fourscore and four years old1 said to him pleasantly1 ,je vous souhaite beaucoup de richesses4--,monseigneur vous souhaite1 said ,i1 ce que vous ne souhaitez pas pour vous-meme4--,ah1 non1#if said he1 with an air of placid and unaffected content4 ,i judged him to be full of pious resignation to the austerities of his state4 ,devotional exercises are appointed on each of the five ,sundays of ,lent1 at different churches1 within a short distance from ,nice1 which are called1 for the occasion1 stations3 people of all ranks resort thither in crowds3 fruit1 wine1 and provisions1 are exposed to sale1 and the scene has the appearance of what would be called in ,england a pleasure fair3 but the church of the station is filled during the whole time by a succession of those whom one of our tourists would assuredly represent as mere revellers4 ,i know that it is not superfluous to observe1 that the ,sundays of ,lent are not reckoned in the forty days of that season4 ,one of these stations is at the ,croix de ,marbre1 to the great entertainment of the residents in that quarter4 ,another1 is at the convent of ,simia3 no description can give an idea of the varied beauties of the site of this convent1 and of the view which it commands4 ,another station is held at a convent four miles from ,nice1 situated on a fine and lofty elevation4 ,a ,nissard of our acquaintance had a villa or country-house a little above the convent3 we called on him to take refreshments1 and afterwards walked in his garden4 ,the very handsome facade of this villa looks to the south2 the garden is laid out in terraces lined with orange trees1 bearing1 at this time1 both blossom and fruit4 ,the blossom of the orange is a valuable part of the produce of the tree2 it is sold to those who make of it orange-flower water4 ,the blossoms1 according to the usual prodigality of nature1 are in such profusion1 that1 were all to be allowed to become oranges1 the tree would be unable to support them4 ,another thinning takes place of the oranges themselves3 if all were to be allowed to ripen1 the tree would be exhausted3 most of them are cropped at different stages of maturity1 and made into conserves3 this is the case indeed even with those oranges that are suffered to stay on the tree till fully ripe3 they are not good enough to be exported in their natural state3 even in the market of their own country they find rivals in the oranges of ,naples and ,majorca1 sweeter1 heavier1 and thinner of skin4 ,the protestant ,english at ,nice1 with the permission of the government1 had caused to be erected for themselves a chapel1 or1 as it was here called1 a temple2 but1 as they had been unable to settle among themselves what mode of faith should be admitted as orthodox1 and preached in this place of worship1--it was supposed that the undertaking would of necessity be abandoned1 and that the banker who had advanced the funds on the security of the ground and building1 would be obliged to foreclose the mortgage1 to save himself from the loss of his principal and interest4 ,according to some interpreters1 the ,tower of ,babel was abandoned for the same reason2 the settlers of ,sennaar had fallen into the worship of the material agents of nature2 their tops to the heavens1 were to have been a temple or temples to the host of heaven2 and the confusion of tongues was nothing else but a dispute concerning their confession of faith4 ,the port of ,nice has a handsome and strong pier1 but is small and shallow4 ,on the other side of a promontory1 about two miles distant by land1 is ,villefranche1 a commodious harbour1 in which large vessels remain1 and send goods in boats to ,nice4 ,a party1 in which my family was included1 took a pleasure-boat with a tent or awning to shade us from the sun in ,march1 which1 though not engendering agues1 as ,shakspeare says it does in that month1 would have very much annoyed us3 we doubled the cape1 and landed at ,villefranche1 saw the galley of the ,king of ,sardinia1 and conversed with some of the galeriens1 one of whom was within eight days of the termination of his ten years of service1 and seemed but moderately delighted with his approaching liberation4 ,we then dined on the beach under the shade of olive trees1 and enjoyed the vernal breeze1 and afterwards1 having nothing else to do1 returned1 having duly complied with all that constitutes a party of pleasure4 ,the cathedral and several other churches of ,nice are handsome and spacious2 the appearance of the town is1 on the whole1 rich and busy and cheerful3 it might be a good place for sea-bathing in the summer1 if accommodations were provided4 ,i described to a person whom such an undertaking might suit1 the bathing machines used at ,weymouth and ,brighton3 he said it would be necessary to have the permission of the government2--the permission of the government for two cart wheels to go ten yards into the sea1 and out again6 ,no doubt the permission of the government would be granted1 but it seemed to me strange that it should be wanted3 it is lucky that governments leave us the independent enjoyment of the non-naturals4 ,i had thoughts of spending the summer here1 but impatience to see ,italy prevailed3 the last day of my abode at ,nice was the fifth of ,may1 on which day my departed son would have completed his twenty-first year3 on the morrow we set off for the ,col de ,tende4 ,nice is called1 in ,italian1 ,nizza maritima1 to distinguish it from other towns of the same name3 ,greek3 niche1 victory1 was a name of good augury for a city4 ,massena1 the enfant gate de la victoire1 was born at ,nice3 ,i saw the house and shop in which he employed his youth in the useful art of making and retailing vermicelli4 ,,footnotes3 #id ,what does that signify8 #ie ,but there1 in the street opposite1 near the port1 there is one3 it will cost you a sous2 but1 if you remain here for any length of time1 you may subscribe4 #if ,i wish you a deal of riches4--,his lordship wishes you what you do not wish for yourself4--,ah6 no4 ,,the ,,end4 ,printed by ,a4 ,j4 ,valpy1 ,red ,lion ,court1 ,fleet ,street4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,interesting ,,works1 ,just published by ,,henry ,,colburn1 ,new ,burlington ,street4 #a4 ,,the ,,history ,,of ,,the ,,commonwealth of ,,england3 from the ,commencement of the ,civil ,war1 to the ,restoration of ,,charles ,,the ,,second4 ,by ,william ,godwin4 ,volume the ,second1 #hvo4 999999,there is no part of the history of this island which has been so inadequately treated1 as the characters and acts of those leaders1 who had1 for the most part1 the direction of the public affairs of ,england1 from #afdj to #affj4 ,the men who figured during the interregnum were1 immediately after the ,restoration1 spoken of with horror1 and their memoirs were composed after the manner of the ,newgate ,calendar4 ,what was begun from party rage1 has been continued from indolence4 ,no research has been exercised1 no public measures have been traced to their right authors2 even the succession of ,judges1 ,public ,officers1 and ,statesmen1 has been left in impenetrable confusion4 ,it is the object of the present ,work to remedy this defect1 and to review the transactions of that period with the same calmness1 impartiality1 and inflexible justice1 as if they had preceded the ,universal ,deluge1 or had taken place in one of the remotest islands of the ,south ,sea4 #b4 ,,the ,,diary and ,,correspondence of ,,samuel ,,pepys1 ,esq4 ,f4,r4,s4 ,secretary to the ,admiralty in the ,reigns of ,charles ,,ii4 and ,james ,,ii4 and the intimate ,friend of the celebrated ,john ,evelyn4 ,edited by ,richard1 ,lord ,braybrooke4 ,in #b vols4 royal #dto4 printed uniformly with ,evelyn's ,memoirs1 and embellished with ,portraits and other ,engravings by the first ,artists4 ,price #fl4 #fs4 boards4 #c4 ,,the ,,lives ,,of ,,the ,,right ,,hon4 ,,francis ,,north1 ,baron ,guilford1 ,lord ,keeper of the ,great ,seal under ,king ,charles ,,ii4 and ,king ,james ,,ii42 the ,,hon4 ,,sir ,,dudley ,,north1 ,commissioner of the ,customs1 and afterwards of the ,treasury to ,king ,charles ,,ii42 and the ,,hon4 and ,,rev4 ,,dr4 ,,john ,,north1 ,master of ,trinity ,college1 ,cambridge1 and ,clerk of the ,closet to ,king ,charles ,,ii4 ,by the ,hon4 ,roger ,north4 ,with ,notes and ,illustrations1 historical and biographical4 ,in three vols4 #hvo4 with ,portraits1 price #al4 #afs4 #d4 ,,biographical ,,sketches of ,,recently ,,deceased ,,british ,,characters1 commencing with the ,accession of ,george ,,iv4 comprising two hundred and thirty subjects1 chronologically arranged1 with a ,list of their engraved ,portraits4 ,by ,wm4 ,miller4 ,handsomely printed in #dto4 price #cl4 #cs4 #e4 ,,the ,,life and ,,times of ,,frederick ,,reynolds 7the ,dramatist71 written by himself4 ,two vols4 #hvo4 with ,portrait4 #f4 ,,the ,,life and ,,correspondence of ,,major ,,cartwright4 ,edited by his ,niece1 ,f4 ,d4 ,cartwright4 ,two vols4 #hvo4 with ,portrait1 c4 #g4 ,,gaston ,,de ,,blondeville2 a ,romance3 ,st4 ,alban's ,abbey2 a ,metrical ,tale1 with some ,poetical ,pieces4 ,by ,anne ,radcliffe1 ,author of ,the ,romance of the ,forest1 ,mysteries of ,udolpho1 ,italian1 c4 to which is prefixed1 a ,memoir of the ,author1 with ,extracts from her ,diary4 ,published from the ,originals1 in the possession of ,wm4 ,radcliffe1 ,esq4 four vols4 post #hvo4 #al4 #ahs4 #h4 ,,sheridaniana4 ,anecdotes of the ,life of ,richard ,brinsley ,sheridan2 his ,table ,talk and ,bons ,mots4 ,one vol4 post #hvo4 #is4 #f;d4 #i4 ,,memoirs of the ,,countess ,,de ,,genlis1 illustrative of the ,history of the ,eighteenth and ,nineteenth ,centuries4 ,written by ,herself4 ,in #h vols4 small #hvo4 ,price #cl4 #fs4 and in ,french1 #bl4 #ahs4 999999,this ,work will be found to abound in ,anecdotes of the most ,eminent ,literary and ,political ,characters1 who figured at the latter end of the ,eighteenth and the commencement of the ,nineteenth ,centuries4 #aj4 ,,the ,,diary of an ,,ennuyee4 ,second ,edition1 #a vol4 post #hvo4 #ajs4 #f;d4 #aa4 ,,letters from the ,,east4 ,written during a recent ,tour through ,turkey1 ,egypt1 ,arabia1 the ,holy ,land1 ,syria1 and ,greece4 ,by ,john ,carne1 ,esq41 of ,queen's ,college1 ,cambridge4 ,in one large volume1 with a coloured plate1 #ahs4 #ab4 ,,gaieties and ,,gravities1 a ,series of ,sketches1 ,comic ,tales1 and ,fugitive ,vagaries4 ,by ,,one of the ,authors of ,rejected ,addresses4 ,second ,edition1 revised4 ,in #c vols4 post #hvo4 #bgs4 #ac4 ,,letters ,,prom ,,spain4 ,by ,don ,leucadio ,doblado4 7,the ,rev4 ,jos4 ,blanco ,white47 ,the second ,edition1 revised4 ,in one large volume1 #hvo4 price #ads4 #ad4 ,,the ,,miscellaneous ,,writings of ,,john ,,evelyn1 ,esq4 the celebrated ,author of ,sylva2 or1 a ,discourse of ,forest ,trees1 ,memoirs1 c4 ,now first collected1 and edited1 with ,notes1 by ,william ,upcott1 of the ,london ,institution4 ,printed uniformly with ,evelyn's ,memoirs1 in one vol4 royal #dto4 and embellished with ,engravings4 ,price #cl4 #ajs4 boards4 ,the miscellaneous writings of the ,philosopher and ,naturalist1 ,evelyn1 7most of which are extremely rare7 are here presented to the public in a quarto volume1 to range with his ,diary and ,correspondence4 ,these works1 with his noble discourse on ,forest-,trees1 under the title of ,sylva1 7of which an edition in two vols4 #dto4 with ,notes1 has also just appeared7 comprise the whole body of ,evelyn's productions4 ,the tracts forming the present volume are1 more or less1 on subjects of great interest1 including lively pictures of the manners and amusements of his time2 memoirs1 political1 domestic1 and religious3 treatises on ,morals1 ,horticulture1 ,art1 ,science1 ,commerce1 c42 in all of which the sound intellect of this amiable and high-minded ,english ,gentleman will be traced4 #ae4 ,,the ,,naval ,,sketch ,,book2 or1 ,service ,afloat and ,ashore1 with ,characteristic ,reminiscences1 ,fragments1 and ,opinions4 ,by an ,officer of ,rank4 ,second ,edition1 with considerable ,additions4 ,in two vols4 post #hvo4 #ahs4 #af4 ,,diary of the ,,marquis ,,de ,,dangeau1 kept during his ,residence 7above thirty years7 at the ,court of ,france4 ,now first translated from the ,french1 with ,historical and ,critical ,notes4 ,in two vols4 #hvo4 #bhs4 ,a ,french ,edition1 with ,supplementary ,notes1 three vols4 #bhs4 ,the ,memoirs of the ,marquis de ,dangeau are curious1 and certainly include a great deal of valuable information4 ,those who have a taste for this kind of writing1 and some previous knowledge of the personages to whom it relates1 will be pleased at meeting so many of their old friends1 and amused with the transactions1 great and small1 which ,dangeau records of them2 while those who look still deeper into the work will find a great deal of chronological and some historical information1 with many important views of the manners and morals of the age1 of the character of the ,sovereign and his ,ministers1 and the secret springs and personal motives of many considerable events4--,quarterly ,review4 #ag4 ,,the ,,private ,,journal of ,,madame ,,campan',s ,,conversations1 comprising ,original ,anecdotes of the ,french ,court2 with ,extracts from her ,correspondence1 her ,thoughts on ,education1 c4 ,editions in ,french and ,english4 ,in one vol4 #hvo4 ,french #abs4 ,english #ads4 #ah4 ,,memoirs and ,,recollections of ,,count ,,segur1 ,ambassador from ,france to the ,courts of ,russia and ,prussia4 ,volume the ,second1 #hvo4 #abs42 ,french #ajs4 #f;d4 ,the ,count de ,segur was connected by ties of friendship or consanguinity with all the remarkable personages of the ,courts of ,louis ,,xv4 and ,,xvi41 and was engaged in the intercourse of ,affairs and ,society with ,catherine ,,ii41 ,frederic the ,great1 ,potemkin1 ,joseph ,,ii41 ,gustavus ,,iii41 ,washington1 ,kosciusko1 ,la ,fayette1 ,mirabeau1 and ,napoleon1 as well as with the ,chiefs of the ,aristocratical and ,democratical ,parties1 and the most illustrious ,writers of the times2 of whom he records the most interesting particulars4 #ai4 ,,the ,,reminiscences of ,,michael ,,kelly1 of the ,king's ,theatre2 including a ,period of nearly half a ,century4 ,with numerous original ,anecdotes of ,distinguished ,persons1 ,royal1 ,political1 ,literary1 and ,musical4 ,the ,second ,edition1 revised4 ,in two vols4 post #hvo4 with a ,portrait by ,meyer4 ,price #bas4 #bj4 ,,the ,,spirit of the ,,age2 or1 ,contemporary ,portraits4 ,the ,second ,edition1 with ,additions4 ,in one vol4 post #hvo4 ,price #ajs4 #f;d4 ,contents3--,mr4 ,jeffery1 ,mr4 ,gifford1 ,mr4 ,southey1 ,sir ,walter ,scott1 ,lord ,byron1 ,mr4 ,campbell1 ,mr4 ,thomas ,moore1 ,mr4 ,william ,godwin1 ,mr4 ,jeremy ,bentham1 ,mr4 ,cobbett1 ,mr4 ,coleridge1 ,mr4 ,leigh ,hunt1 ,mr4 ,wordsworth1 ,sir ,james ,mackintosh1 ,mr4 ,brougham1 ,sir ,f4 ,burdett1 ,rev4 ,e4 ,irving1 ,lord ,eldon1 ,mr4 ,wilberforce1 ,mr4 ,malthus1 ,mr4 ,crabbe1 the late ,mr4 ,horne ,tooke1 c4 c4 #ba4 ,,memoirs of the ,,margravine of ,,anspach4 ,written by ,herself4 ,in two vols1 #hvo4 with ,portraits4 ,price #bhs4 #bb4 ,,don ,,esteban2 or1 ,memoirs of a ,spaniard4 ,written by ,himself4 ,second ,edition1 three vols4 post #hvo4 #bgs4 ,this work forms an excellent supplement and companion to the admirable ,letters of ,don ,leucadio ,doblado4--,globe and ,traveller4 #bc4 ,a ,,picture of ,,greece in #ahbe3 as exhibited in the ,personal ,narratives of ,james ,emerson1 ,esq41 ,count ,pecchio1 and ,w4 ,h4 ,humphreys1 ,esq4 ,in two vols4 post #hvo4 with a ,portrait of the ,greek ,admiral ,miaulis4 ,price #ahs4 #bd4 ,,the ,,fourth and ,,last ,,livraison of ,,napoleon',s ,,historical ,,memoirs4 ,dictated at ,st4 ,helena1 to ,counts ,montholon1 ,gourgaud1 c4 and published from the original manuscripts1 corrected by himself4 ,one vol4 #ads42 in ,french #abs4 ,this important work is now completed in seven volumes1 comprising four of ,memoirs1 and three of ,historical ,miscellanies2 and the public are advised to complete their sets without delay4 #be4 ,,conversations ,,of ,,lord ,,byron1 in which are detailed the principal ,occurrences of his private ,life1 his ,opinions on ,society1 ,manners1 ,literature1 and ,literary ,men4 ,being the substance of a ,journal kept during a ,residence with his ,lordship at ,pisa1 in the ,years #ahba and #ahbb4 ,by ,thomas ,medwin1 ,esq4 of the #bdth ,light ,dragoons4 ,new editions1 uniform with the ,works1 in one vol4 #hvo4 and two vols4 foolscap1 price #ads4 #bf4 ,,the ,,last ,,days of ,,napoleon4 ,by ,f4 ,antommarchi2 recording his ,conversations with the ,emperor on various interesting ,subjects1 during the last two years of his ,exile2 and forming a ,supplement to the ,journals of ,o',meara and ,las ,cases4 ,editions in ,french and ,english1 in two vols4 #hvo4 #bas4 #bg4 ,,count ,,las ,,cases' ,,journal of the ,,private ,,life and ,,conversations of the late ,,emperor ,,napoleon2 a new ,edition1 illustrated with ,portraits of ,napoleon and ,las ,cases2 a ,view of the ,house in which ,napoleon was born1 at ,ajaccio in ,corsica2 four coloured ,views of ,st4 ,helena1 taken on the spot2 besides ,maps1 ,plans1 c4 complete in four handsome volumes1 #hvo4 ,price #bl4 #abs4 in ,french or ,english4 ,as this work is universally acknowledged to form the most perfect epitome of the ,life1 ,character1 and ,opinions of this extraordinary ,man1 it is presumed that this new ,edition1 compressed into four volumes1 and published at a very moderate price1 will be extremely acceptable to the public1 and that there are few who will not be desirous of possessing it4 #bh4 ,a ,,series of ,,illustrations to the ,,journal of ,,count ,,las ,,cases1 comprising a ,portrait of ,napoleon1 engraved by ,cooper1 after the original well-known ,painting by ,david1 a ,portrait of ,count ,las ,cases1 and four coloured ,views of ,st4 ,helena1 from ,drawings taken on the spot by eminent ,artists4 #hvo4 ,price #es4