,digital ,library47 ,college ,bulletin ,,college ,,of ,,industrial ,,arts ,,the ,,state ,,college ,,for ,,women ,,denton1 ,,texas ,,appropriate ,,clothes ,,for ,,the ,,high ,,school ,,girl ,,by ,,virginia ,m4 ,,alexander ,,director ,,department ,,of ,,fine ,,and ,,applied ,,art ,,appropriate ,,clothes ,,for ,,the ,,high ,,school ,,girl ,some one asked recently1 ,why all this agitation on the subject of high school girls' dress8 ,interest in this subject has certainly increased during the last several years and the high school girl herself is directly responsible for this interest4 ,it has been said that no great evil exists but contains the seeds of its own cure4 ,the costumes worn to school by the high school girls of our country have been gradually going from bad to worse with the years4 ,mothers and teachers have striven to do what they could to correct matters but not until the girls themselves realized that this great weakness existed1 and they resolved to seek a cure1 were real results noticeable4 ,the representative high school girls of our country are making a stand for good taste and democracy in the clothes they wear to school4 ,this little bulletin is published with the hope that its suggestions may be of value to those students who truly desire to raise the standards of dress among the girls of their school4 ,,extension ,,service ,,advisory ,,faculty ,,committee ,,on ,,extension ,,service ,f4 ,m4 ,bralley1 ,president of the ,college4 ,virginia ,m4 ,alexander1 ,director1 ,department of ,fine and ,applied ,art4 ,lena ,bumpas1 ,supervisor1 ,teacher-,training ,vocational ,home ,economics4 ,margaret ,gleason1 ,director1 ,department of ,household ,arts4 ,mamie ,w4 ,walker1 ,assistant ,professor1 ,department of ,english4 ,a ,,staff ,,of ,,competent ,,lecturers ,,and ,,extension ,,workers ,,from ,,the ,,regular ,,faculty ,requests for ,extension ,service should be addressed to ,lillian ,humphries1 ,secretary1 ,department of ,extension1 ,college of ,industrial ,arts1 ,denton1 ,texas4 ,,number #gd--;,,february #a1 #aibj ,issued monthly by the ,college of ,industrial ,arts1 ,denton1 ,texas4 ,entered ,december #ag1 #aiag1 ,denton1 ,texas1 as second-class matter1 under ,act of ,congress1 ,august #bd1 #aiab4 ,,appropriate ,,clothes ,,for ,,the ,,high ,,school ,,girl ,many a girl feels1 when she first enters high school1 that she is a child no longer4 ,she has suddenly become a woman1 and she must demonstrate this fact to the world immediately by her clothes4 ,gingham dresses1 middies1 and low-heel shoes are scorned as belonging to the days that are gone4 ,hair once lovely for its natural beauty and simplicity takes on fearful and wonderful lines4 ,french heels only are to be considered and a georgette blouse with elaborate camisole or a silk dress is an absolute necessity4 ,with these acquisitions our young lady is ready for her new undertaking4 ,could she possibly make a greater mistake8 ,the school room is not a style show1 nor a social function1 but it is a busy workshop where material is to be assembled from which to build a life4 ,in a truly good high school1 of all places1 a student must do or die1 and there is no time here to be wasted on thoughts of frills and furbelows4 ,school room walls and blackboards do not make consistent backgrounds for party clothes4 ,in the past the high school girl who was considered well-dressed by her associates was the one who was elaborately dressed4 ,now1 since the girls of our country are interested in all the big world issues of the day and have taken efficiency as their watchword the girl who is a leader is the girl who can do1 not the girl who can dress4 ,one of the surest tests of good judgment and refinement in a girl is her selection of clothes4 ,the overdressed girl does not belong to the wealthiest and most cultured families as a rule4 ,she is often striving to attain a social goal not yet realized and the school room and the street offer her only opportunities to show her fine feathers4 ,suggestions for the ,school ,dress ,if a girl should not wear fanciful clothes to school just what1 then1 should she wear8 ,in a general way ,i will answer that question4 ,a high school girl should wear dresses made of good1 substantial material1 appropriate for its wearing quality and interesting for its color and texture4 ,these dresses should be made on lines becoming to the individual girl who is to wear the dress1 and at the same time designed so that they will stand the wear and tear to which they will be subjected4 ,dangling tassels1 sashes1 and fluffy ruffles divert the attention of both the wearer and the observer and by their very inappropriateness make the owner conspicuous4 ,above all1 the school dress1 which is a work dress1 should allow the wearer free use of her limbs and muscles and should promote her general good health4 ,a school girl in a dress built on the lines of a ,peter ,thompson or ,hofflin suit with proper accessories in the way of shoes1 stockings1 and coiffure has much more style than her little sister in georgette or velvet4 ,this type of suit is becoming to almost any girl as the collar1 tie1 and belt may be varied to suit each individual1 and the design has become almost as staple as flour and sugar in the pantry4 ,as a result1 these dresses1 made of good material1 may be worn for several years without going out of style4 ,ready-made suits of this type are quite expensive but patterns are easily secured and any one who sews may make a successful garment if a little care is exercised4 ,gingham1 linen1 and percale dresses built on simple lines so that they may be laundered without becoming stretched and misshapen1 are always satisfactory and pleasing4 ,in cold weather serge and tricatine make splendid but expensive substitutes for the washable materials4 ,illustration3 ,,appropriate ,,school ,,dresses ,the ,dress with a ,washable ,underblouse ,the linen or serge jumper dress1 made with a washable underblouse1 is a most satisfactory garment for the school dress4 ,it is not only utilitarian but it is also comfortable and attractive on account of its many possible variations4 ,it is becoming to almost all types of girls from the very young girl1 often found in the first year of high school1 to the dignified senior4 ,the dress proper1 built on simple lines1 will stand hard wear and the fact that the underblouse may be laundered or changed will give freshness and variety to the costume4 ,the very young girl who has not learned to care successfully for her wristbands will find this feature most valuable4 ,in warm climates or overheated school rooms the light weight of the underblouse will prove very comfortable4 ,this dress made of wool may be worn quite late in the spring and a silk blouse will be most useful for the winter months4 ,made of gingham or linen the dress will be a valuable asset in the summer wardrobe1 particularly in the ,south4 ,georgette crepe is not an appropriate material for this undergarment or for any other school garment4 ,its perishable nature and its transparency make it prohibited for the school room4 ,a very transparent outer garment demands a most carefully selected under garment and more often than not this care is not wisely exercised by the wearer4 ,a white shirt waist and dark skirt is a very utilitarian combination1 but from an art standpoint it is not considered good design4 ,for a costume to possess art quality it must have unity2 the wearer and her clothes should create an impression of oneness4 ,the sudden change at the waist line from a light waist to a dark skirt cuts the figure into two parts1 destroying this much-desired quality of unity4 ,illustration3 ,,jumper ,,dresses ,,for ,,the ,,very ,,young ,,high ,,school ,,girl ,the ,proper ,use of ,line ,about the ,face ,the truly well-dressed girl and the one who displays good judgment is not the girl who slavishly adopts the new styles and fads of the day regardless of whether they are becoming to her individually or not4 ,this applies also to the way she dresses her hair4 ,there is no part of a toilet that influences the effect of the whole more than the hair4 ,the most becoming gown fails in its function if the hair is tousled or dressed unbecomingly4 ,many girls fail to realize how they may overcome some of ,nature's faults and shortcomings and how they may counteract the effect of bad features and proportions by the correct use of line when dressing the hair4 ,if ear muffs become stylish1 the little round-faced girl who knows nothing of art or design as related to herself must bulge her hair over her ears whether it makes a full moon of her face or not4 ,girls should dress in style but styles should be modified to suit each individual4 ,the hair is a frame for the face4 ,the delicate blonde and the strenuous athletic brunette may no more wear the same coiffure than they may safely wear the same colors4 ,a miniature and an oil painting would certainly not be framed alike4 ,the slender girl with a narrow face and thin neck should be most careful with the use of line around her face4 ,hair combed in on the cheeks and high and back from the forehead will make more evident her slenderness4 ,a hard neck line or chains and ties repeating the point of her chin will make it appear more angular4 ,soft flowing lines in the hair1 worn low on the forehead and back from the cheeks1 should be adopted4 ,the round-faced girl should conscientiously avoid coiffures which broaden the proportions of her face1 also neck lines and beads that repeat the curve of her chin4 ,four small illustrations3 #a4 ,lines of ,hair and ,neck ,increase ,point of ,face #b4 ,flowing ,lines for ,narrow ,face #c4 ,face ,made ,broader by ,hair and ,neck ,line #d4 ,successful ,coiffure for ,broad ,face ,suggestions for the ,stout ,figure ,a girl may not only improve the appearance of her face and head by the proper use of line but she may do wonders with her figure1 as well1 if she knows how to properly design her dresses4 ,a dress wonderfully becoming to a slender sylphlike girl may become a tragedy on her plump classmate4 ,every girl should understand her physical make-up as thoroughly as she does her disposition1 with its strong points and its weaknesses4 ,she should know the kind of line she may wear successfully in her dresses1 and the colors that are most becoming to her and the types of materials most suitable for her4 ,the stout girl should carefully avoid a design in a dress that is too cut-up or complicated4 ,tunics1 unless long and scant1 are unfortunate usually and the interest created by trimming about the waist line or elaborate belts should never be indulged in by the stout girl4 ,length-producing lines should always be planned and light or colored collars should always be designed so that interest will not be created out towards the sides of the figure1 creating width1 but down the center front instead4 ,contrasting shoes and stockings not only cut from the height of the figure but help to accent the feet and ankles of the wearer4 ,the girl who wears white shoes with her dark dress states1 by so doing1 that she considers her feet well worth public consideration4 ,contrasting materials for sleeves or elaborate cuffs or pockets will add width to any figure4 ,the designs in the accompanying illustration are most suitable for the older school girl when made up of wool or linen materials4 ,i may safely recommend this type of line in design for the girl of superfluous weight4 ,illustration3 ,,good ,,lines ,,for ,,stout ,,figures ,plaids and ,figured ,materials ,our stores in the early spring and summer show such fascinating plaid and figured materials that ,i feel their use should be considered4 ,almost everyone has fallen a victim to a wonderfully colored plaid on display1 to discover later that buying a plaid is a much simpler matter than making it into a dress4 ,plaids are fatal for stout people4 ,area is the impression always created by them and unless the pattern is very small and the colors very soft and indefinite1 they should be reserved for the use of children and young girls4 ,there is no colored costume that will make a woman more conspicuous than one made of a large black-and-white plaid material4 ,in selecting a pattern for a girl's plaid dress care should be used to secure one with as few seams as possible4 ,every seam is a danger zone4 ,only persons with great poise and power of concentration1 if they notice their surroundings at all1 will be able to remain unaffected by a conspicuous seam when the plaids don't hit4 ,some plaids are designed so that it is very difficult to match the pattern in the seams of the skirt or a stretched selvedge will add to the difficulty4 ,a gored skirt pattern making bias seams necessary should never be used for plaid material4 ,arm holes and shoulder seams should be carefully planned4 ,a kimona sleeve simplifies the arm-hole problem but will not prove so satisfactory in a wash dress4 ,plain material1 either white or colored1 makes a happy combination with plaids or figured material4 ,the accompanying designs are particularly becoming to slender girls4 ,the wide soft belts and collars and the contrasting materials in the sleeves will seemingly add weight to slender young figures4 ,in planning tucks and band trimming for a skirt the result will be much more pleasing if variety is used in the width of the bands and the spaces between the bands4 ,illustration3 ,,plaid ,,and ,,figured ,,material ,,for ,,slender ,,figures ,appropriate ,clothes for the ,street ,if the school room is not an appropriate place for elaborate or fanciful clothes1 surely the street is less so4 ,the truly refined woman will never wear those things on the street that will make her conspicuous4 ,here all classes of people meet and mingle1 supposedly on business bent1 and the girl who appears in this public place in party clothes shows either very poor judgment or that she is striving to attract public attention in the cheapest possible way4 ,the most stylish girls seen in the city streets are those gowned in simple well-made dresses or tailored suits4 ,hats1 gloves1 and shoes should be as carefully considered as the dress itself and all should harmonize4 ,a simple dark silk dress is almost an essential for street wear in spring and summer1 to replace the heavier suit or serge dress4 ,taffeta is an excellent material for this dress and makes a much cooler and more youthful dress than satin4 ,a taffeta dress needs little trimming1 if cut on interesting lines4 ,buttons1 tucks1 and plaited frills of the same material may be used most effectively4 ,little bits of hand embroidery or attractive light collar and cuff sets add much charm to this type of dress4 ,bright colors should not appear upon the street4 ,a loud color attracts attention as successfully as a loud noise4 ,any dark neutral color becoming to the wearer is well for the street dress4 ,wool mixtures and tweeds are particularly good for suits built on box or belted lines4 ,sport clothes will give the young girl a wonderful opportunity for the use of brilliant color4 ,dresses worn at home and for afternoon and evening functions permit the use of delicate colors1 more elaborate trimming1 and more perishable materials4 ,remember that a hat should serve a double function4 ,it should act as a covering for the head1 and its lines and color should enhance the attractiveness of the wearer4 ,illustration3 ,,simple ,,designs ,,for ,,taffeta ,,street ,,dresses ,the ,graduation ,dress ,one of the most important events in the life of every girl is her graduation1 and we shall here consider the dress worn by her when she has fulfilled all the requirements and that long-anticipated day arrives4 ,this occasion is not one for splendor and show1 and the cue for the girl graduate is modesty and simplicity4 ,she is not supposed to be a radiant queen bedecked for a festive occasion1 but a charming young girl equipped and ready to begin life as a young woman4 ,the simple and beautiful graduation dress of the past has assumed more elaborate proportions during recent years until it has reached the point where the students themselves realize that a halt must be called4 ,georgettes1 chiffons1 and expensive nets have supplanted cotton weaves and elaborate creations of lace and satin are not infrequent4 ,the cost of the dress itself is increased by such expensive accessories as long white kid gloves1 expensive slippers and stockings4 ,what is the girl whose parents possess only moderate means to do under these conditions8 ,perhaps she is graduating with honors4 ,is she to be embarrassed by having to play a ,cinderella role by the side of her gorgeously attired classmates or shall she strain the family bank account and spend money for this ornate apparel that should be spent for the education or maintenance of other members of her family8 ,surely this is a time when the ,american girl may show her real spirit of democracy4 ,instead of selecting a handsome dress1 which she often excuses by saying she wishes to use it afterwards for an evening dress1 she will choose a really more charming one made of less expensive material1 which will give her an opportunity to show her originality1 and make her personal charms more appreciated4 ,illustration3 7,no4 ,b #hbj7 ,,organdy ,,graduation ,,dress 7,no4 ,b #hbb7 ,patterns for these dresses may be secured at the ,college of ,industrial ,arts4 ,in many high schools the unfairness of an expensive graduation dress has been so much appreciated by the students that a price limit has been set for the graduation outfit1 and the girl who violates this understanding is considered a real offender4 ,the girls who have initiated this have been1 in many cases1 those girls who could best afford the expensive garments and by such acts they have demonstrated that they are to make the splendid ,american women of the future1 who will lead in those movements that bring about the greatest good to the greatest number4 ,i feel that organdy leads all other materials as desirable for the graduation dress4 ,it is a trifle more expensive than some other possible materials but its sheerness and crispness give character to the dress1 making little trimming necessary4 ,a dress of this material may be worn for quite a while1 as a little pressing always revives its freshness4 ,there are some qualities of flaxon that rival organdy as a desirable material1 and a dress of this may be laundered with perfect safety4 ,if lace is used on the graduation dress1 do not sacrifice quality for quantity4 ,a small amount of good lace skillfully used will make a much handsomer garment than one festooned with rows of a cheap quality4 ,a self-trimmed organdy dress is very distinctive4 ,dainty little frills and pin tucks may be used in many interesting ways1 and they may be planned so as to be becoming to almost any figure4 ,daintiness should be the characteristic quality of the graduation dress4 ,it is always disappointing to see elaborate jewelry worn with these charming frocks4 ,in many cases the most valued possessions of the family have been collected for the occasion and this borrowed finery always makes a discordant note in the harmony of the young wearer's costume4 ,under no consideration substitute imitation jewelry for the genuine article4 ,illustration3 7,no4 ,b #hbd7 ,,organdy ,,graduation ,,dress 7,no4 ,b #hcc7 ,patterns for these dresses may be secured at the ,college of ,industrial ,arts4 ,how to ,secure ,patterns of ,these ,dresses ,the ,college of ,industrial ,arts1 in its efforts to be of service to the girls and women of ,texas1 has made it possible for those desiring patterns of the graduation dresses illustrated in this bulletin to secure them through the ,department of ,extension of the ,college4 ,the original designs of these dresses were made by highly trained artists at the ,college1 whom we feel appreciate the particular needs of ,texas girls and women4 ,the patterns were cut from these original designs by the ,vogue ,pattern ,company of ,new ,york1 and are sold at thirty cents each1 their exact cost to the ,college4 ,an illustration1 material requirement1 and approximate cost are given with each pattern1 and they are cut in sizes #ad1 #af1 and #ah4 ,when ordering patterns state the number of the pattern and the size desired4 ,the quaint little design ,b #hbj will appeal to the young girl who likes a touch of originality in her clothes4 ,the becoming fichu and full skirt of this design seem to belong to the ,colonial days with powdered hair and patches4 ,this design1 created of organdy1 should cost from #e4jj to #h4jj according to the material selected4 ,no4 ,b #hbb will prove more expensive on account of the lace trimming1 the approximate cost being from #i4jj to #ab4jj4 ,if interesting materials are chosen1 this loose peplum and snug ribbon girdle will make quite a distinctive costume1 becoming to stout figures4 ,the long-waisted design ,b #hbd is decidedly original and its dainty frills and ribbons appeal to young girls4 ,a dress may be made by this pattern of good materials for #h4jj4 ,design ,b #hbf shows a clever interpretation of the narrow skirt so popular today4 ,the tiny tucks and frills make a dainty and inexpensive trimming1 and the costume should cost from #d4jj to #f4jj4 ,no4 ,b #hbh demonstrates that vertical ruffles may be used successfully4 ,this dress is beautiful when sheer material is used and the ruffles are picoted and plaited4 ,it should cost about #f4jj4 ,the slender girl who is not too thin through the bust is charming in design ,b #hcc4 ,the organdy sash and flounced peplum are designed particularly for her4 ,from #f4jj to #h4jj should buy the material for this dress4 ,illustration3 7,no4 ,b #hbh7 ,,organdy ,,graduation ,,dress 7,no4 ,b #hbf7 ,patterns for these dresses may be secured at the ,college of ,industrial ,arts4 ,lingerie for the ,graduation ,dress ,the garment worn directly under the graduation dress has much to do with the effect of the dress itself4 ,this garment should not be picked up at random but the fullness of its skirt and the design around the neck should be planned to suit the particular dress pattern selected4 ,underwear is to the dress what the foundation is to a house1 and it should be built just as skillfully4 ,it is impossible to secure a dainty graceful effect in a dress when it is worn with a clumsy petticoat4 ,styles change in underwear just as they do in dresses and the silhouette of the outer garment must decide what the lines of the under one shall be4 ,for the present styles soft yielding materials are absolutely necessary for underwear and few flounces should be used about the bottom of the skirt if the clinging effect around the ankles and knees is desired in the dress4 ,elaborate lace trimmings are neither in good taste nor stylish1 and handwork constitutes the decoration on many of the most attractive of these garments4 ,colored lingerie and bright-colored ribbons should be worn only when the dress is not transparent4 ,bright pink and blue ribbons in a camisole or chemise will always look a bit garish when viewed through a thin blouse4 ,color has a magnetic attraction for the eye and wherever placed immediately attracts attention to that spot4 ,i am sure refined girls do not wish to invite public interest in their lingerie through the use of bright colors in their ribbons4 ,the most delicate tints are permissible1 but should be used only in small quantities4 ,white only should be used with the graduation dress4 ,since several petticoats are apt to prove clumsy1 great care must be exerted in selecting the material for this undergarment1 to avoid too much transparency when worn under the very sheer organdy dress4 ,illustration3 ,,lingerie ,,for ,,the ,,graduation ,,dress ,corsets and ,posture ,the envelope chemise and knickerbockers are very comfortable undergarments and are quite popular with most young girls of today4 ,they may be made most attractive when soft dainty materials are used and the needlework is carefully executed4 ,these garments should be kept quite simple4 ,if lace is used it should be in limited quantities and of a kind that may be laundered often4 ,little bits of dainty feather stitching and hand embroidery will add individual charm to these undergarments4 ,style depends not only upon the proper selection of clothes but very largely upon the way these clothes are put on and worn4 ,many girls wearing beautiful clothes are decidedly not stylish4 ,their clothes look as though they had fallen upon their owners4 ,this is caused by the fact that the wearer does not carry herself well1 or has not good poise4 ,nothing is so vitally necessary for good health and good looks as good posture4 ,the slouchy1 humped-over girl is unattractive enough when young1 but when she develops into a misshapen woman with superfluous flesh about the abdomen and shoulders the most skillful artist will be unable to disguise her deformities4 ,the girl with the debutante slouch or the one who sits in her corsets is rarely graceful4 ,the uncorseted figure is the popular one today but if corsets must be worn they should be most carefully selected4 ,fortunately the long1 unyielding coats of mail of several years ago are now rarely seen on girls1 and soft1 flexible girdles leaving the figure with its natural lines and grace1 have appeared as substitutes4 ,a well-shapen brassiere is often necessary with these low-busted girdles4 ,a stylish girl has good poise4 ,this means that she stands well1 walks well1 carries her head high1 her shoulders back1 and looks the world in the face4 ,the clothes worn by this girl will take the correct swing4 ,illustration3 ,,envelope ,,and ,,knickerbocker ,,chemise ,shoes and ,feet ,illustration3 ,shoes and ,feet showing an image of ,good unspoiled ,american feet1 and ,a bunion is in the bone4 ,all organizations and publications keenly interested in the welfare of young women are making a strenuous effort to produce better ,american feet1 and this is to be done directly through the shoes worn by our girls4 ,the ,y4 ,w4 ,c4 ,a4 during the war discovered that lack of endurance among girls could be traced back directly to misshapen feet1 flattened arches1 weak backs and abdominal muscles4 ,in almost every case these had been caused by wearing high-heel shoes4 ,the human body is built and strung so that a person may walk and stand with natural grace and ease4 ,when the equilibrium of this delicate mechanism is disturbed by inserting a spindle heel directly under that point responsible for most of the human weight1 it is not surprising that physical ails result that must be carried through life4 ,a ,french or spindle heel is absolutely inconsistent for any occasion when walking or standing is to be done and is certainly not artistic when worn with a tailored dress or suit4 ,vanity1 gratified by a foot that seemingly is a bit smaller1 should not compensate for the loss of good health1 good sense1 natural grace and efficiency4 ,an elaborate evening dress may call for a higher heel than the one worn on the street1 but it will not excuse the wabbly spindle heels sold girls by many ruthless concerns4