,,cotton1 ,,its ,,progress ,,from ,,the ,,field ,,to ,,the ,,needle3 ,,being ,a ,,brief ,,sketch ,,of ,,the ,,culture ,,of ,,the ,,plant1 ,,its ,,picking1 ,,cleaning1 ,,packing1 ,,shipment1 ,,and ,,manufacture4 ,illustration ,,new ,,york3 ,,published ,,by ,,robert ,,logan ,,co41 #ea ,,dey-,,street4 #ahee4 ,,oliver ,,brother1 ,,steam ,,printers1 ,no4 #cb ,beckman-,street1 ,new-,york4 ,,preface4 ,among the utilitarian gifts of nature and art we know of none in more general use1 or of greater practical value1 than sewing-cotton4 ,the taste which turns into graceful shapes the products of the loom1 the executive skill which converts them into convenient and elegant apparel1 would be powerless without this simple accessory4 ,it is the food of the needle1 and might almost be called the thread of life to thousands of the gentler sex4 ,yet as it passes through the delicate fingers of mothers1 wives1 and daughters1 ministering to so many wants1 and creating so many beautiful superfluities1 little thought is bestowed upon the labor1 the care1 the dexterity1 and the scientific ability required in producing the article4 ,the cultivation of the raw material1 the processes of picking1 ginning1 packing1 shipping1 combing1 spinning1 and twisting1 are among the most interesting operations in the whole range of agriculture and manufactures2 and we think the ladies1 for whose especial convenience such a vast amount of industry1 skill1 and talent is employed1 will not be unwilling to trace with us in a familiar way the progress of this great domestic staple from the field to the needle4 ,we therefore claim their attention to the following short treatise1 from which1 without being fatigued by dry details1 they may derive a tolerably accurate idea of what capital1 labor1 and science have done to bring to its present perfection the simple article of sewing-cotton4 ,,cultivation ,,of ,,the ,,cotton ,,plant4 ,the cotton-planting season in all the ,southern ,states commences in ,april4 ,the seed is sown in drills1 a negro girl following the light plough which makes the furrow1 and throwing the seed into the shallow trench as she moves along4 ,a harrow follows to cover up the deposits1 and the work of planting is completed4 ,about two and a half bushels of seed are required for an acre of ground4 ,illustration ,in a week or ten days the cotton is up1 when a small plough is run along the drills1 throwing the earth from the tender plants4 ,the next process is scraping2 in other words1 thinning out and earthing up the plants1 so as to leave each in the centre of a little hill1 some two feet distant from its nearest neighbors4 ,the dexterity and accuracy with which this feat is accomplished are wonderful2 and there are few spectacles more animated and picturesque than that of a hundred active field-hands flourishing their bright hoes among the young vegetation1 each striving to outstrip the others in hoeing out his row4 ,several ploughings and hoeings intervene between the first of ,may and the last of ,june4 ,in ,july the cotton fields burst into bloom1 creaming the landscape with a sea of blossoms1 the flower being very nearly of the same tint as the ultimate product in its unbleached state4 ,the new beauty thus imparted to the scenery is1 however1 ephemeral4 ,the blossoms unfold in the night1 are in their full glory in the morning1 and by noon have begun to fade4 ,on the following day their cream-color has changed to a dull red1 and before sunset the petals have fallen1 leaving inclosed in the calyx the germ or form of the filamental fruit4 ,the cotton plant1 in its progress towards maturity1 is liable to the assaults of as many enemies as the young crocodile on the banks of the ,nile2 but among them all1 the army-worm is the most destructive4 ,this worm is produced from the eggs of a chocolate-colored moth of particularly harmless and demure appearance2 but its name is legion1 its ravages terrific4 ,no one who has beheld an invasion of these caterpillars can ever forget it4 ,deep trenches are dug to arrest their progress1 but these are soon filled up by the accumulating myriads2 and onward move the living destroyers over the bodies of the buried masses4 ,huge logs are drawn through the trenches by yokes of oxen1 and the multitudinous swarms crushed to a paste1 of which the effluvium taints the air for miles2 but still the incursion1 if checked1 is not arrested4 ,when the planter sees the army-worm in his fields1 he is ready to give up his crop in despair4 ,by the middle of ,july the bolls or forms begin to open2 and the cotton fields1 when viewed from a short distance1 present the appearance of being covered with ridges of white surf4 ,toward the close of the month the picking season commences1 and is continued without intermission until the ,christmas holidays4 ,each field-hand is supplied with a basket and a bag4 ,the basket is placed at the end of the cotton row1 and the bag1 as fast as filled1 is emptied into it4 ,it is a pleasant sight1 on the old plantation1 to see the pickers returning at nightfall from their work1 with their well-filled baskets picturesquely poised upon their woolly heads4 ,falling into line with the stoutest in the van1 they move along through the twilight1 too tired to talk or sing1 anxious only to deposit their store in the packing-house1 and retire to their quarters to rest4 ,a first-rate hand will pick from three hundred to three hundred and fifty pounds of cotton per day4 ,illustration ,the next process is the ginning1 or separation of the cotton from the seeds4 ,the invention of the cotton-gin by ,eli ,whitney1 a ,new ,england youth1 in #agic1 marked a new epoch in the cotton trade1 and at once more than quadrupled the value of the article as a national staple4 ,arkwright had already introduced the spinning-frame1 and through the genial influence of these two great inventions1 a pound of cotton1 formerly spun tediously by hand into a thread of five hundred feet1 was lengthened into a filament of one hundred and fifty miles2 and the value of our cotton exports was increased in sixty years from fifty thousand to one hundred and twelve millions of dollars6 ,illustration3 ,,packing ,,press4 ,after the ginning comes the baling of the cotton1 which ends the labor bestowed upon it on the plantation4 ,in this process powerful screw-presses are employed4 ,the cotton is inclosed in ,kentucky bagging1 and the contents of each bale are compressed by the screw almost to the solidity of stone4 ,the cotton is now ready for market4 ,illustration ,toward the close of the packing season there are jolly times on the plantation4 ,fox-hunting and racing are the order of the day4 ,the ,southern planter1 like the fine old ,english gentleman1 opens house to all1 and all goes merry as a marriage bell4 ,sambo rubs up his old musket1 and is out after the ducks1 while ,dinah's shining face wears an extra gloss in anticipation of the holidays4 ,throughout the holidays there is high festival in the negro quarters4 ,the shovel and the hoe are laid down1 and the fiddle is continually going4 ,so ends the cotton season4 ,shipment on the ,mississippi4 ,the cotton1 being packed1 is to be sent to market4 ,for this purpose it is hauled1 generally by oxen1 to the nearest landing on the river1 where the bales are rolled down the banks and stowed on board freight boats bound to ,new ,orleans or ,mobile4 ,this process is technically called bumping4 ,there are certain plantations famous for the tenacious and beautiful quality of their cotton1 from which the supplies for ,,dick ,,sons' celebrated sewing-cotton mills at ,glasgow are principally derived4 ,illustration ,delivery and ,re-shipment at ,new ,orleans4 ,illustration ,it would be difficult to describe the scene of bustle and seeming confusion presented by the levee at ,new ,orleans when the bulk of the new crop begins to come in4 ,the songs and clamor of the negro stevedores1 at work in the holds and on the decks of the vessels2 the sharp authoritative expletives of the overseers and masters2 the eager conversations of the merchants1 and the preternatural activity into which the occasion seems to have spurred all the energies of ,southern life1 are to ,northern ears and eyes at once amusing and confounding4 ,but order reigns amidst this seeming chaos4 ,the ,mississippi boats are rapidly relieved of their bulky cargoes1 and the cotton is warehoused or re-shipped1 as the case may be1 with marvellous celerity4 ,generally the shipments for the ,clyde ,mills1 ,glasgow1 are among the first of the season2 and the primest article in the market is always selected for ,,dick ,,sons by the ,new ,orleans agents of the firm4 ,illustration3 ,,dick ,,sons' ,,clyde ,,thread-,,mills4 ,arrival at ,glasgow4 ,the view of the ,,clyde ,,thread-,,mills1 furnished by our engraver from accurate drawings taken on the spot1 affords a very good idea of the extensive manufactory of ,,dick ,,sons1 from which this country is now supplied with the most perfect1 even1 and tenacious sewing-cotton made in the world4 ,the cotton for the mills1 after having been unloaded and inspected by the revenue officers1 is conveyed at once to the mills1 where there is an immense amount of warehouse room for the raw material1 independent of the space devoted to machinery and the storage of the manufactured article4 ,of the latter1 however1 there is never a large accumulation1 the active and ever-increasing demand taxing to the utmost the facilities of production1 great as they are4 ,the ,manufacturing1 c4 ,a full description of the processes of scutching1 carding1 spinning1 twisting1 bleaching1 and spooling1 through all of which the cotton passes before it is packed for exportation in the form of thread1 would require more space than we can devote to them in this treatise1 and1 moreover1 would be rather dry reading for the ladies1 for whose information and amusement this little publication is intended4 ,it is sufficient to say1 that all the latest improvements in machinery1 in each of the above branches1 have been introduced at the ,clyde ,works2 and that as regards the perfection of their mechanical facilities1 as well as in point of capacity1 they have no rivals in the ,united ,kingdom4 ,manufactured ,article in ,new ,york4 ,the consignments of ,,dick ,,sons' spool-cotton to this city are on a scale of magnitude which those who have never reflected upon the immense and universal consumption of the article would scarcely believe4 ,the bulk of the importations is received by the ,collins' line of steamers1 and delivered at the ,collins' wharf1 whence it is conveyed to the ,new ,york agency of the firm1 #ea ,,dey-,,street4 ,to the trade it is unnecessary to say1 that ,,dick ,,sons' six-cord spool-cotton is the best in the market2 and ladies generally are aware that in strength1 uniformity of thickness1 and closeness of fibre1 it is superior to any other sewing-thread in use4 ,illustration ,mr4 ,dick1 senior1 has probably had more experience as a manufacturer of the article than any other man living4 ,prior to commencing business on his own account he had been for nearly thirty years the manager of a factory celebrated for producing a superior description of sewing-cotton1 also well known in the ,united ,states4 ,hence the cotton of ,,dick ,,sons came into the market with a ready-made popularity4 ,the name of ,mr4 ,,dick was a guarantee of its excellence1 and a large demand for it spontaneously sprang up in the ,united ,states1 ,canada1 the ,west ,indies1 and the ,british possessions in ,india1 and throughout the world4 ,illustration ,infinite pains are taken to retain for the article the celebrity it has acquired4 ,every spool is inspected before it leaves the factory at ,glasgow1 so that no defective specimens can possibly reach the hands of consumers4 ,,conclusion4 ,the history of the culture of cotton1 and of its application to the uses of man1 forms an almost romantic episode in the annals of agriculture1 commerce1 and manufactures4 ,we have already mentioned the extraordinary impetus given to its production1 sale1 and use by the introduction of ,whitney's saw-gin1 for separating the seeds from the wool1 in the years #agic and #agid4 ,since that time the progress of the demand and consumption has been no less wonderful4 ,in #agid the export rose from #ahg1jjj lbs41 the sum total for the previous year1 to #a1fja1gfj lbs4 ,the next year it was over #f1jjj1jjj lbs4 ,in #ahjj it had advanced to about #ah1jjj1jjj lbs41 and in #ahaj to upwards of #ic1jjj1jjj lbs4 ,the last returns before us are for #aheb1 when the export of the short staple variety alone exceeded one thousand one hundred millions of pounds6 ,to this aggregate we suppose about one hundred millions of pounds may be added for the sea-island and other long-fibred cottons4 ,it may well be doubted whether among all the fabrics into which this enormous amount of raw material is converted there is one more valuable than sewing-cotton4 ,we think if the question were put to the ladies to-morrow1 whether the textile fabrics produced from cotton1 or cotton sewing-thread1 were the most indispensable to their comfort and convenience1 every thimbled hand would be held up in favor of the latter4 ,sewing-silk is too expensive for ordinary exigencies1 and linen thread cannot be spun of the same smooth and even fibre as cotton thread2 and besides1 being liable to knot and twist1 is apt to cut the lighter and more fragile products of the loom4 ,abolish sewing-cotton1 and you abolish muslin embroidery and innumerable delicate and fairy-like embellishments of female loveliness1 which taste and fashion have endorsed4 ,every lady is by habit a connoisseur in the article4 ,she examines the spools with a critical eye2 she tries the strength of the thread2 she passes it through her fingers to test its evenness and compactness1 and when seated at her work1 detects in a moment any defects which may have been overlooked by the manufacturer4 ,to this ordeal the six-cord cotton-thread of ,,dick ,,sons is cheerfully submitted4 ,it challenges inspection and comparison4 ,there is little necessity1 however1 for an appeal to the ladies in relation to its good qualities1 for they have them already at their fingers' ends4