,frontispiece3 ,oswald ,hunter ,blair ,a ,,new ,,medley ,,of ,,memories ,,by ,,the ,,right ,,rev4 ,,sir ,,david ,,hunter-,,blair ,,bt41 ,o4,s4,b41 ,m4,a4 ,,titular ,,abbot ,,of ,,dunfermline ,,with ,,portrait ,,london ,,edward ,,arnold ,,co4 #aibb ,all rights reserved ,,to ,,the ,,master ,,and ,,scholars ,,of ,,saint ,,benet',s ,,hall1 ,,oxford1 ,,in ,,memory ,,of ,,ten ,,happy ,,years4 vii ,,foreword ,some kindly critics of my ,medley of ,memories1 and not a few private correspondents 7most of them unknown to me7 have been good enough to express a lively hope that ,i would continue my reminiscences down to a later date than the year #aijc1 when ,i closed the volume with my jubilee birthday4 ,it is in response to this wish that ,i have here set down some of my recollections of the succeeding decade1 concluding with the outbreak of the ,great ,war4 ,one is rather treading on eggshells when printing impressions of events and persons so near our own time4 ,but ,i trust that there is nothing unkind in these more recent memories1 any more than in the former4 ,there should not be2 for ,i have experienced little but kindness during a now long life2 and ,i approach the ,psalmist's limit of days with only grateful sentiments towards the many friends who have helped to make that life a happy as well as a varied one4 ,,david ,o4 ,,hunter-,,blair1 ,o4,s4,b4 ,s4 ,paulo1 ,brazil1 ,march1 #aibb4 ix ,,contents ,,page ,,chapter ,i4--#aijc-aijd4 ,the ,premier ,duke--,oxford ,chancellorship--,a ,silver ,jubilee--,in ,canterbury ,close--,hyde ,park ,oratory--,oxford under ,water--,twopence each at ,christ ,church--,church ,music--,gregorian ,centenary in ,rome--,pope ,pius ,x4--,pilgrims and ,autograph--,cradle of the ,benedictine ,order 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #a ,,chapter ,,ii4--#aijd4 ,sermons from ,stones--,alcestis at ,bradfield--,whimsical ,texts--,old ,masters at ,ushaw--,a ,mozart-,wagner ,festival--,bismarck and ,william ,,ii4--,longest ,word ,competition--,medal-week at ,st4 ,andrews--,oxford ,rhodes ,scholars--,liddell and ,scott--,lord ,rosebery at the ,union--,oxford ,portraits--,wytham ,abbey--,christmas in ,bute 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #ai ,,chapter ,,iii4--#aije4 ,a ,catholic ,demonstration--,boy-prodigies--,spring ,days in ,naples--,c4-,b4 at ,oxford--,medical ,sceptics--,blenheim ,hospitality--,a ,scoto-,irish ,wedding--,dunskey ,transformed--,lunatics up-to-date--,eton ,war ,memorial--,four ,thousand ,guests at ,arundel--,at ,exton ,park--,abbotsford and ,blairquhan--,lothair's ,bride 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #cg ,,chapter ,,iv4--#aije-aijf4 ,modern ,gothic--,contrasts in ,south ,wales--,chamberlain's ,last ,speech--,a ,catholic ,dining-club--,lovat ,scouts' ,memorial--,a ,tory debacle--,hampshire ,marriages--,on the ,cote d',azur--,three ,weddings--,an ,old ,irish ,peer--,guernsey in ,june--,a ,coming of ,age on the ,cotswolds--,the ,warwick ,pageant--,bank ,holiday at ,scarborough 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #ef ,,chapter ,v4--#aijf-aijg4 ,melrose and ,westminster--,newman ,memorial ,church--,the ,evil ,eye--,catholic ,scholars at ,oxford--,grace before ,meat--,a ,literary ,dinner--,a ,jamaica ,tragedy--,an ,abbatial ,blessing--,deaths of ,oxford friends--,robinson ,ellis--,a ,genteel ,watering-place--,visit to ,dover--,pageants at ,oxford and ,bury--,hugh ,benson 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #gd ,,chapter ,,vi4--#aijg-aijh4 ,benedictine ,honours at ,oxford--,anecdotes from ,sir ,hubert--,everingham and ,bramham--,early ,rising--,mass in a ,deer-forest--,a ,bishop's ,visiting-cards--,a ,miniature ,college--,our ,new ,chancellor--,bodley's ,librarian--,dean ,burgon--,a ,welsh ,bishop--,illness and ,convalescence--,h4,m4,s4 ,victory 4 4 4 4 4 4 #id x ,,chapter ,,vii4--#aijh4 ,miss ,broughton at ,oxford--,notable ,trees--,an ,infantile ,rest-cure--,equestrians from ,italy--,the ,colours--,a ,parson's ,statistics--,two ,anxious ,mammas--,let us ,kill ,something--,scottish ,dessert--,a ,highland ,bazaar--,i ,resign ,mastership of ,hall--,notes on ,newman--,scriptural ,heraldry--,myres ,macership--,scots ,catholic ,judge--,at a chateau in ,picardy--,excursions from ,oxford--,st4 ,andrew's ,day at ,cardiff 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #aac ,,chapter ,,viii4--#aijh-aiji4 ,christmas at ,beaufort--,annus mirabilis--,kenelm ,vaughan--,a ,heathen ,turk--,sven ,hedin--,centenary of ,darwin--,oxford and ,louvain--,hugh ,cecil on the ,house of ,commons--,arundel itself again--,the ,bridegroom's ,father weeps--,cambridge ,fisher ,society--,bodleian ,congestion--,shackleton at ,albert ,hall--,oakamoor1 ,faber1 and ,pugin--,welsh ,pageant--,hampton ,court--,father ,hell and ,mr4 ,dams6--,a ,bishop's ,portrait--,gleann ,mor ,gathering 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #acb ,,chapter ,,ix4--#aiji-aiaj4 ,the ,white ,garden at ,beaufort--,andrew ,lang--,a ,holy ,well--,the new ,ladycross--,my terrible ,great-uncle6--,off to ,brazil---,king's ,birthday on ,board---,the ,new ,city ,beautiful--,arrival at ,s4 ,paulo---,an ,abbey ,rebuilding--,cosmopolitan ,state and ,city--,college of ,s4 ,bento--,stray ,englishmen--,progressive ,paulistas--,education in ,brazil 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #aea ,,chapter ,x4--#aiaj4 ,provost ,hornby--,christmas in ,brazil--,architecture in ,s4 ,paulo--,the ,snake-farm--,guests at the ,abbey--,end of the ,isolation of ,fort ,augustus--,a ,benedictine ,festival--,sinister ,italians--,death of ,edward ,,vii4--,brazilian ,funerals--,popular ,devotion--,fradesj estrangeiros--,football in the ,tropics--,homeward ,voyage--,santos and ,madeira--,sir ,john ,benn 4 4 #agj ,,chapter ,,xi4--#aiaj-aiaa4 ,a ,wiesbaden ,eye ,klinik--,the ,rhine in ,rain--,cologne and ,brussels--,wedding in the ,hop-,country--,the ,new ,departure at ,fort ,augustus--,st4 ,andrew's without ,angus--,oxford ,again--,highland ,marriage at ,oratory--,one ,eye versus ,two--,cambridge versus ,oxford---,a ,question of ,colour--,ex-,king ,manuel--,a ,great ,church at ,norwich--,ave ,verum in the ,kirk--,fort ,augustus ,post-bag 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #ahi ,,chapter ,,xii4--#aiaa4 ,monks and ,salmon--,fitz,alan ,chapel--,april on ,thames-side--,my sacerdotal ,jubilee--,kinemacolor--,apparition at an ,abbey--,st4 ,lucius--,faithful ,highlanders--,hay ,centenary--,nuns for ,s4 ,paulo--,a ,brief ,marriage ,ceremony--,pagan ,mass-music--,seventeen ,new ,cardinals--,doune ,castle--,a ,quest for our ,abbey ,church--,great ,coal ,strike--at ,stonyhurst and ,ware--,katherine ,howard--,twentieth-,century ,chinese--,an ,anglo-,italian ,abbey 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #bjh xi ,,chapter ,,xiii4--#aiab-aiac4 ,a ,concert for ,cripples--,queen ,amelie--,may at ,aix-les-,bains--,a ,sample ,savoyards--,hautecombe--,a ,picture of the ,year--,a ,benedictine ,o4,t4,c4--,pugin's ,blue ,pencil--,my nomination as ,prior--,fort ,augustus and the ,navy--,work in the ,monastery--,ladies in the ,enclosure--,a ,bishop's ,jubilee--,a ,modern ,major ,pendennis--,my ,election to ,abbacy--,installation ,ceremonies--,empress ,eugenie at ,farnborough--,a ,week at ,monte ,cassino--,fatiguing ,functions 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #bbg ,,chapter ,,xiv4--#aiac-aiad4 ,st ,anselm's1 ,rome--,election of a ,primate--,my ,uncle's ,grave--,milan and ,maredsous--,canterbury ,revisited--,an ,oratorian ,festival--,poetical ,bathos--,a ,benedictine ,chapter--,king of ,uganda at ,fort ,augustus--,threefold ,work of our ,abbey--,funeral of ,bishop ,turner--,bute ,chapel at ,westminster--,a ,patriarchal ,lay-brother--,abbot ,gasquet a ,cardinal--,corpus ,christi at ,arundel--,eucharistic ,congress at ,cardiff--,the ,great ,war--,conclusion 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #bdf ,,appendix ,i4 ,novissima ,verba 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #bfg ,,ii4 ,darwin's ,credo 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #bfi ,,index 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #bga #a ,a ,,new ,,medley ,,of ,,memories ,,chapter ,i #aijc-aijd ,i take up again the thread of these random recollections in the autumn of #aijc1 the same autumn in which ,i kept my jubilee birthday at ,st4 ,andrews4 ,i went from there successively to the ,herries' at ,kinharvie1 the ,ralph ,kerrs at ,woodburn1 near ,edinburgh1 and the ,butes at ,mountstuart1 meeting1 curiously enough1 at all three places ,norfolk and his sister1 ,lady ,mary ,howard--though it was not so curious after all1 as the ,duke was accustomed to visit every autumn his ,scottish relatives at these places1 as well as the ,loudouns in their big rather out-at-elbows castle in ,ayrshire4 ,he had no taste at all either for shooting1 fishing1 or riding1 or for other country pursuits such as farming1 forestry1 or the like2 but he made himself perfectly happy during these country house visits4 ,the least exacting of guests1 he never required to be amused1 contenting himself with a game of croquet 7the only outdoor game he favoured71 an occasional long walk1 and a daily romp with his young relatives1 the children of the house1 who were all devoted to him4 ,he read the newspapers perfunctorily1 #b but seldom opened a book3 he knew and cared little for literature1 science1 or art1 with the single exception of architecture1 in which he was keenly interested4 ,the most devout of ,catholics1 he was nothing of an ecclesiologist3 official and hereditary chief of the ,college of ,arms1 he was profoundly uninterested in heraldry1 whether practically or historically3#a the head of the nobility of ,england1 he was so little of a genealogist that he was never at pains to correct the proof--annually submitted to him as to others--of the preposterous details of his pedigree as set forth in the pages of ,burke4 ,i seem to be describing an ignoramus2 but the interesting thing was that the ,duke1 with all his limitations1 was really nothing of the kind4 ,he could1 and did1 converse on a great variety of subjects in a very clear-headed and intelligent way2 there was something engaging about his utter unpretentiousness and deference to the opinions of others2 and he had mastered the truth that the secret of successful conversation is to talk about what interests the other man and not what interests oneself4 ,no one could1 in fact1 talk to the ,duke much1 or long1 without getting to love him2 and every one who came into contact with him in their several degrees1 from princes and prelates and politicians to cabmen and crossing-sweepers1 did love him4 ,his ,grace 'as a good 'eart1 that's what 'e 'as1 said the old lady who used to keep the crossing nearly opposite ,norfolk ,house1 and sat against the railings #c with her cat and her clean white apron 7,i think she did her sweeping by deputy72 he'll never cross the square1 whatever 'urry 'e's in1 without saying a kind word to me4 ,one sees him striding down ,pall ,mall in his shabby suit1 one gloveless hand plucking at his black beard1 the other wagging in constant salutation of passing friends1 and his kind brown eyes peering from under the brim of a hat calculated to make the late ,lord ,hardwicke turn in his grave4 ,a genuine man--earnest1 simple1 affable1 sincere1 and yet ducal too2 with a certain grave native dignity which sat strangely well on him1 and on which it was impossible ever to presume4 ,panoplied in such dignity when occasion required1 as in great public ceremonies1 our homely little ,duke played his part with curious efficiency2 and it was often remarked that in ,state pageants the figure of the ,earl ,marshal was always one of the most striking in the splendid picture4 ,the only country seat which the premier ,duke owned besides ,arundel ,castle was ,derwent ,hall1 a fine old ,jacobean house in the ,derwent valley1 on the borders of ,yorkshire and ,derbyshire4 ,the ,duke had lent this place for some years past to his only brother as his country residence 7he later bequeathed it to him by will72 and herein this same autumn ,i paid a pleasant visit to ,lord and ,lady ,edmund ,talbot1 on my way south to ,oxford4 ,in ,london ,i went to see the rich and sombre chapel of the ,holy ,souls just finished in ,westminster ,cathedral1 at the expense of my old friend ,mrs4 ,walmesley 7nee ,weld ,blundell74 ,the ,archbishop's white marble cathedra was in course of erection in the sanctuary1 and preparations were going forward #d for his enthronement4#b ,eight immense pillars of onyx were lying on the floor1 and the great painted rood leaned against the wall4 ,i was glad to see some signs of progress4 ,our principal domestic interest1 on reassembling at ,oxford for ,michaelmas ,term1 was the prospect of exchanging the remote and incommodious semi-detached villa1 in which our ,benedictine ,hall had been hitherto housed1 for the curious mansion near ,folly ,bridge1 built on arches above the river1 standing in its own grounds1 as auctioneers say 7it could not well stand in any one else's671 and known to most ,oxonians as ,grandpont ,house4 ,besides the ,thames bubbling and swirling at its foundations1 it had a little lake of its own1 and was 7except by a very circuitous detour7 accessible only by punt4 ,rather fascinating6 we all thought2 but when the pundits from ,ampleforth ,abbey came to inspect1 the floods happened to be out everywhere1 and our prospective ,hall looked so like ,noah's ,ark floating on a waste of waters1 that they did not see their way#c to approve of either the site or the house4 ,oxford was preoccupied at this time with the question of who was to succeed to the ,chancellorship #e vacant by the death of ,lord ,salisbury4 ,i attended a meeting of the ,conservative caucus summoned to discuss the matter at the ,president's lodgings at ,st4 ,john's4 ,these gatherings were generally amusing1 as the ,president 7most unbending of old ,tories7 used to make occasional remarks of a disconcerting kind4 ,on this occasion he treated us to some reminiscences of the great ,chancellors of the past1 adding1 ,i look round the ranks of prominent men in the country1 including cabinet ministers and ex-ministers1 and ,i see few if any men of outstanding or even second-rate ability--the point of the joke being that next to him was seated the late ,chancellor of the ,exchequer1 ,sir ,michael ,hicks ,beach1 whose presence and counsel had been specially invited4 ,the names of ,lords ,goschen1 ,lansdowne1 ,rosebery1 and ,curzon were mentioned1 the first-named being evidently the favourite4 ,scholar1 statesman1 financier1 educationalist1 ,i wrote of him in the ,westminster ,gazette a day or two later1 a distinguished son of ,oriel1 versatile1 prudent and popular4444 ,the ,fates seem to point to ,lord ,goschen as the one who shall sit in the vacant chair4#d ,another less famous ,oriel man1 my old friend ,mgr4 ,tylee1 was in ,oxford this autumn1 on his annual visitation of his old college1 and came to see me several times4 ,he gravely assured me that he had preached his last sermon in ,india2 but this was #f a false alarm4 ,the good monsignore was as great a farewellist as ,madame ,patti or the late ,mr4 ,sims ,reeves1 and at least three years later ,i heard that he was meditating another descent on ,hindostan2 though why he went there1 or why he stayed away1 ,i imagine few people either knew or cared4#e ,we were all interested this term in the award of the senior ,kennicott ,hebrew scholarship to a ,catholic1 ,frederic ,ingle of ,st4 ,john's1 who had already1 previous to his change of creed1 gained the ,pusey and ,ellerton ,prize1 and other honours in #g ,scriptural subjects4 ,one could not help wondering whether it came as a little surprise to the ,anglican examiners to find that they had awarded the scholarship to a young man studying for the ,catholic priesthood at the ,collegio ,beda in ,rome1 an institution specially founded for the ecclesiastical education of converts to the ,roman ,church4 ,the ,hertford this year1 by the way1 the ,blue ,ribbon of ,latin scholarship1 was also held by a ,catholic1 a young ,jesuit of ,pope's ,hall--,cyril ,martindale1 the most brilliant scholar of his time at ,oxford1 who carried off practically every classical distinction the university had to offer4 ,the ,hertford was won next year 7#aijd7 by another ,catholic1 ,wilfrid ,greene1 scholar of ,christ ,church4 ,i celebrated in #aijc not only my fiftieth birthday1 but the silver jubilee of my entrance into the ,benedictine ,order2 and ,i went to keep the latter interesting anniversary at ,belmont ,priory in ,herefordshire1 where twenty-five years before 7,december #h1 #ahgh7 ,i had received the novice's habit4 ,two or three of the older members of the community1 who had been my fellow-novices in those far-off days1 were still in residence there2 and from them and all ,i received a warm welcome and many kind congratulations4 ,these jubilees1 golden and silver1 are apt to make one moralize2 and some words from an unknown or forgotten source were in my mind at this time3 ,such dates are milestones on the grey1 monotonous road of our lives3 they are eddying pools in the stream of time1 in which the memory rests for a moment1 like the whirling leaf in the torrent1 until it is caught up anew1 and carried on by the resistless current towards the everlasting ocean4 #h ,soon after the end of term ,i made my way northwards1 to spend ,christmas1 as so many before1 with the ,lovats at ,beaufort1 where the topic of interest was the engagement1 just announced1 of ,norfolk to his cousin1 elder daughter of ,lord ,herries4 ,we played our traditional game of croquet in the sunshine of ,christmas ,day1 and spent a pleasant fortnight1 of which1 however1 the end was saddened for me by the premature death of my niece's husband1 ,charles ,orr ,ewing1 ,m4,p4 ,they had only just finished the beautiful house they had built on the site of my old home1 ,dunskey1 and were looking forward to happy years there4 ,i was at ,arundel for a few days after ,new ,year1 and found the ,duke very busy with improvements1 inspecting new gardening operations1 and so on2 and after all1 he said1 some one will be coming by-and-by who may not like it6 ,from ,arundel ,i dawdled along the south coast to ,canterbury1 and paid a delightful visit to my old friends ,canon and ,mrs4 ,moore at their charming residence 7incorporating the ancient monastic guest-house7 in the close4 ,i spent hours exploring the glorious cathedral--the most interesting 7me judice7 if not the most beautiful in ,england4 ,the close1 too1 really is a close1 with a watchman singing out in the small hours1 ,past two o'clock--misty morning--a-all's we-e-ell6 and the enclosure so complete that though we could hear the ,bishop of ,dover's dinner-bell on the other side of the wall1 my host and hostess had to drive quite a long way round1 through the mediaeval gate-house1 to join the episcopal dinner-party4 ,their schoolboy son invited me that night to accompany the watchman 7an old #i greybeard sailor with a ,guy ,fawkes lantern1 who looked himself like a relic of the ,middle ,ages7 in his eleven o'clock peregrination round the cathedral4 ,a weird experience6 the vast edifice totally dark#f save for the flickering gleam of the single candle1 in whose wavering light pillars and arches and chantries and tombs peered momentarily out of the gloom like petrified ghosts4 ,i saw other interesting things at ,canterbury1 notably ,st4 ,martin's old church 7perhaps the most venerable in the kingdom71#g and left for ,london1 where1 walking through ,hyde ,park on a sunshiny ,sunday morning1 ,i lingered awhile to watch the perfervid stump-orators wasting their eloquence on the most listless of audiences4 ,come along1 ,mary ,ann1 let's give one of the other blokes a turn1 was the prevailing sentiment2 but ,i did manage to catch one gem from a ,free ,thought spouter1 whose advocacy of post mortem annihilation was being violently assailed by one of his hearers4 ,do you mean to tell me1 shouted the heckler1 that when ,i am dead ,i fade absolutely away and am done with for ever8--to which query came the prompt #aj reply1 ,i sincerely hope so1 sir6#h ,lord ,cathcart 7a great frequenter of the ,park71 to whom ,i repeated the above repartee1 amused me by quoting an unconsciously funny phrase he had heard from a labour orator near the ,marble ,arch3 ,what abaht the working man8 ,the working man is the backbone of this country--and ,i tell you strite1 that backbone 'as got to come to the front6#i ,i left ,paddington for ,oxford in absolutely the blackest fog ,i had ever seen3 it turned brown at ,baling1 grey at ,maidenhead1 and at ,didcot the sun was shining quite cheerfully4 ,i found the floods almost unprecedentedly high1 and the loved city abundantly justifying its playful sobriquet of ,spires and ,ponds4 ,a ,catholic freshman1 housed in the ground floor of ,christ ,church ,meadow-buildings1 described to me his dismay at the boldness and voracity of the rats which invaded his rooms from the meadows when the floods were out4 ,the feelings of ,lady ,bute when she visited ,oxford about this time1 and found her treasured son--who had boarded at a private tutor's at ,harrow1 and had never roughed it in his life--literally immured in an underground cellar beneath ,peckwater ,quad1 may be #aa better imagined than described4 ,it is fair to add that the youth himself had made no complaint1 and shouted with laughter when ,i paid him a visit in his extraordinary subterranean quarters in the richest college in ,oxford4 ,the last words remind me of a visit paid me during this term by ,dom ,ferotin and a colleague from ,farnborough ,abbey4 ,escorting my guests through ,christ ,church1 ,i mentioned the revenue of the ,house as approximately ,l#hj1jjj a year1 a sum which sounded colossal when translated into francs4 ,deux millions par an6 mais c'est incroyable1 was their comment1 as we mounted the great ,jacobean staircase4 ,twopence each1 please1 said the nondescript individual who threw open the hall door4 ,it was an anti-climax2 but we did the pictures without further remark1 and ,i remember noticing an extraordinary resemblance 7which the guide also observed7 to the distinguished ,french ,benedictine in the striking portrait of ,dr4 ,liddon hanging near the fireplace4 ,we lunched with my friend ,grissell in ,high ,street1 meeting there the ,baron de ,bertouche1 a young man with a ,danish father and a ,scottish mother1 born in ,italy1 educated in ,france1 owning property in ,belgium1 and living in ,wales--too much of a cosmopolitan1 it seemed to me1 to be likely to get the commission in the ,pope's ,noble ,guard which appeared at that time to be his chief ambition4#aj #ab ,i remember two lectures about this time3 one to the ,newman ,society about ,dickens1 by old ,percy ,fitzgerald1 who almost wept at hearing irreverent undergraduates avow that the ,master's pathos was all piffle1 and that ,paul ,dombey and ,little ,nell made them sick2 the other a paper on ,armour 7his special hobby7 by ,lord ,dillon4 ,i asked him if he could corroborate what ,i had heard as a boy1 that men who took down their ancestral armour from their castle walls to buckle on for the great ,eglinton ,tournament1 seventy years ago1 found that they could not get into it6 ,i was surprised that this fact 7if it be a fact7 was new to so great an authority as ,lord ,dillon2 but we had no time to discuss the matter4 ,mr4 ,justice ,walton1 the ,catholic judge1 also came down and addressed the ,newman1 ,i forget on what subject2 but ,i remember his being heckled on the question as to whether a barrister was justified in conscience in defending 7say7 a murderer of whose guilt he was personally convinced4 ,the judge maintained that he was4 ,february #ae was ,norfolk's wedding-day--a quiet and pious ceremony1 after his own heart1 in the private chapel at ,everingham4 ,i recollect the date1 because ,i attended that evening a ,french play--,moliere's ,les ,femmes ,savantes--at an ,oxford convent school4 ,it was quite well done1 entirely by girls2 but the unique feature was that the men of the comedy were attired as to coats1 waistcoats1 wigs and lace jabots in perfectly correct ,louis ,,xiv4 style1 but below the waist--in petticoats6 the result being that they ensconced themselves as far as possible1 throughout the play1 behind #ac tables and chairs1 and showed no more of their legs than the ,queen of ,spain4 ,going down to ,arundel for ,holy ,week and ,easter1 ,i read in ,the ,times ,hugh ,macnaghten's strangely moving lines on ,hector ,macdonald1#aa whose tragic death was announced this week4 ,easter was late this year1 the weather balmy1 and the spring advanced2 and the park and the whole countryside starred with daffodils and anemones1 primroses and hyacinths4 ,between the many church services we enjoyed some delightful rambles2 and the ,duke's marriage had made no difference to his love of croquet and of the inevitable game of ten questions after dinner4 ,the great church looked beautiful on ,easter morning1 with its wealth of spring flowers2 and the florid music was no doubt finely rendered1 though ,i do not like ,gounod in church at ,easter or at any other time4 ,i refrained1 however1 when my friend the organist asked me what ,i thought of his choir1 from replying1 as ,cardinal ,capranica did to a similar question from ,pope ,nicholas ,v4--that it seemed to him like a sack of young swine1 for he heard a great noise1 but could distinguish nothing articulate6#ab #ad ,all the clergy of ,st4 ,philip's church dined at the castle on ,easter ,sunday evening2 and the young ,duchess1 wearing her necklace of big diamonds 7,sheffield's wedding present71 was a most kind and pleasant hostess4 ,two days later my friend ,father ,mac,call and ,i left ,england en route for ,rome1 crossing from ,newhaven to ,dieppe in three-quarters of a gale4 ,infandum jubes4444 ,the boat was miserable1 so was the passage2 but we survived it1 hurried on through ,france and ,italy 7our direttissimo halting at all kinds of unnecessary places71 and reached ,rome at the hour of ,ave ,maria1 almost exactly twenty-six years since my previous visit4 ,what memories1 as from our modest pension in the ,via ,sistina we looked once again on the familiar and matchless prospect6 ,my companion hurried off at once to the bedside of a fever-stricken friend2 and my first pilgrimage was of course to ,st4 ,peter's4 ,i felt1 as ,i swung aside the heavy baby-crusher1#ac #ae and entered1 almost holding my breath1 that strange sense of exhilaration which ,eugenie de ,ferronays described so perfectly4#ad ,preparations were on foot for the coming festa1#ae and the ,sanpietrini flying1 as of old1 a hundred feet from the floor1 hanging crimson brocades--a fearsome spectacle4 ,on ,sunday we ,benedictines kept the ,gregorian festival at our own great basilica of ,st4 ,paul's2 but the chief celebration was next day at ,st4 ,peter's1 where ,pope ,pius ,x4 himself pontificated in the presence of #dj1jjj people1 and a choir of a thousand monks 7of which ,i had the privilege of being one7 rendered the ,gregorian music with thrilling effect4 ,all was as in the great days of old--the ,papal ,march blown on silver trumpets2 the long procession up the great nave of abbots1 bishops1 and cardinals1 conspicuous among them ,cardinals ,rampolla1 with his fine features and grave penetrating look1 and ,merry del ,val 7the youthful ,secretary of ,state71 tall1 dark1 and strikingly handsome2 the ,pontifical ,court1 chamberlains in their quaint mediaeval dress2 and1 finally1 high on his sedia gestatoria1 with the white peacock-feather fans waving on right and left1 the venerable figure of the ,pope1 mitred1 and wearing his long embroidered manto3 turning kind eyes from side to side on the vast concourse1 and #af blessing them with uplifted hand as he passed4 ,his ,holiness celebrated the ,mass with wonderful devotion1 as quiet and collected as if he had been alone in his oratory4 ,high above our heads1 at the ,elevation1 the silver trumpets sounded the well-known melody1 and the ,swiss ,guards round the altar brought down their halberts with a crash on the pavement4#af ,after the great function ,i lunched with the ,giustiniani ,bandinis in the ,foro ,trajano1 where three generations of the princely family were living together1 in ,roman patriarchal fashion4 ,but 7quantum mutatus67 the old ,prince had sold his historic palace in the ,corso2#ag and his heir1 ,mondragone1 who talked to me of sending his son to ,christ ,church as the ,master of ,kynnaird1 seemed to shy at the expense4#ah ,they had all been at ,st4 ,peter's1 in the tribune of the ,patriciato1 that morning1 and were unanimous 7so like ,romans67 in their #ag verdict that the glorious ,gregorian music would have been much more appropriate to a funeral6 ,i was happy to enjoy a nearer view of the ,holy ,father before leaving ,rome1 in a private audience which he gave to the ,english ,catholic ,union4 ,a slightly stooping figure1 bushy grey hair1 a rather care-worn kind face1 a large penetrating eye--this was my first impression4 ,his manner was wonderfully simple and courteous2 and by his wish 7s'accommodarsi7 we sat down in a little group around him4 ,this absence of formality was1 ,i thought1 no excuse for the bad manners of a lady of rank1 who pulled out a fountain pen1 and asked his ,holiness to sign the photograph of her extensive family4#ai ,the ,pope looked at the little implement and shook his head4 ,non capisco queste cose de nuova moda1 he said2 and we followed him into another room--,i think his private library--where he seated himself before a great golden inkstand1 and with a long quill pen wrote beneath the family group a verse from the hundred and twenty-seventh ,psalm4#bj ,i had an opportunity of asking1 not for an autograph1 but for a blessing on our ,oxford ,benedictines1 and on my mother-house at ,fort ,augustus4 ,next day my friend and ,i left ,rome for ,monte ,cassino--my first visit to the cradle of our venerable ,order4 ,i was deeply impressed1 and felt1 perhaps1 on the summit of the holy mount1 nearer heaven1 both materially and spiritually1 than ,i had ever #ah done before4 ,to celebrate ,mass above the shrine of ,saint ,benedict1 at an altar designed by ,raphael1 was my ,sunday privilege4 ,the visitors at the abbey and a devout crowd of contadini 7many of them from the foot of the mountain7 were my congregation2 and the monks sang the plain-chant mass grouped round a huge illuminated ,graduale on an enormous lectern4 ,three memorable days here1 and ,i had to hasten northward1 halting very briefly to renew old enchanting memories of ,florence and ,milan1 and reaching ,oxford just in time for the opening of the summer term4 #a ,lord ,bute once told me that it was from him that the ,earl ,marshal first learned the meaning and origin of the honourable augmentation 7the demi-lion of ,scotland7 which he bore on his coat-armorial4 #b ,one of the first acts of ,pope ,pius ,x4 had been to translate ,bishop ,bourne of ,southwark to the metropolitan see of ,westminster1 in succession to ,cardinal ,vaughan1 who had died on ,june #ai4 ,archbishop ,bourne became a ,cardinal in #aiaa4 #c ,my father used to hate this new-fangled phrase1 as he called it4 ',see my way'6 ,what does the man mean by 'see my way'8 ,no1 ,i do not 'see my way1' he used to protest when a request for a subscription or donation was prefaced by this unlucky formula1 and the appeal was instantly consigned to the waste-paper basket4 #d ,lord ,goschen was elected on ,november #b without a contest1 the only other candidate in the running 7,lord ,rosebery7 having declined to stand unless unopposed4 ,our new ,chancellor lived to hold the office for little more than three years1 dying in ,february1 #aijg4 #e ,tylee's sole connection with ,india was that he had once been domestic chaplain to ,lord ,ripon1 who1 however 7much to his chagrin71 left him behind in ,england when he went out as ,viceroy4 ,when the monsignore preached at ,st4 ,andrews1 as he occasionally did when visiting ,george ,angus there1 the latter used to advertise him in the local newspaper as ex-chaplain to the late ,viceroy of ,india1 which pleased him not a little4 ,he was fond of preaching1 and carried about with him in a tin box 7proof against white ants7 a pile of sermons1 mostly translated by himself from the great ,french orators of the eighteenth century1 and laboriously committed to memory4 ,i remember his once firing off at the astonished congregation of a small seaside chapel1 a propos des bottes1 ,bossuet's funeral oration on ,queen ,henrietta ,maria4 ,through a friend at the ,vatican1 ,tylee got a brief or rescript from the ,pope1 who was told that he went to preach in ,india1 and commended him in the document1 with some reference to the missionary labours of ,st4 ,francis ,xavier in that country4 ,the monsignore was immensely proud of this4 ,haven't you seen my ,papal ,bull8 he would cry when ,india cropped up in conversation1 as it generally did in his presence4 ,the fact was that when in ,india the good man used to stay with a ,commissioner or ,general commanding1 and deliver one of his famous sermons in the station or garrison church1 to a handful of ,british ,catholics or ,irish soldiers4 ,he never learned a word of any native language1 and did no more missionary work in ,india than if he had stayed at home in his ,kensington villa4 #f ,the ,dean1 my host told me1 whilst prowling about the crypt in semi-darkness once noticed one of the chapels lit up by a rosy gleam4 ,the ,chapter was promptly summoned1 and the canon-sacrist interrogated as to how and why a votive red lamp had been suspended before an altar without decanal authority4 ,the crypt verger was called in to explain the phenomenon4 ,bless your heart1 ,mr4 ,dean1 said the good man1 that ain't no red lamp you saw--only an old oil stove which ,i fished up and put in that chapel to try and dry up the damp a bit4 #g ,i suppose that there had been a ,christian church on the site for thirteen centuries4 ,on the day of my visit it was locked and barred--discouraging to pilgrims4 #h ,the converse of this story is that of the orthodox but sadly prosy preacher who was demonstrating at great length the certainty of his own immortality4 ,yes1 my brethren1 the mighty mountains shall one day be cast into the sea1 but ,i shall live on4 ,nay1 the seas themselves1 the vast oceans which cover the greater part of the earth1 shall dry up2 but not ,i--not ,i6 ,and the congregation really thought that he never would6 #i ,one more instance of ,park repartee ,i must chronicle3 the ,radical politician shouting1 ,i want land reform--,i want housing reform--,i want education reform--,i want---- and the disconcerting interruption1 ,chloroform6 #aj ,his mother1 though a ,catholic like himself1 was a devotee of ,father ,ignatius1 and lived at ,llanthony4 ,she travelled about everywhere with the visionary ,monk of the ,church of ,england1 acting as pew-opener1 money-taker1 and general mistress of the ceremonies at his lectures1 and had published an extraordinary biography of him4 #aa ,have they ever been reprinted8 ,i know not4 ,here they are3-- ,leave him alone3 ,the death forgotten1 and the truth unknown4 ,enough to know ,whate'er he feared1 he never feared a foe4 ,believe the best1 ,o ,english hearts6 and leave him to his rest4 #ab ,these words were penned in #addi by one whom a contemporary layman described on his death as the wisest1 the most perfect1 the most learned1 and the holiest prelate whom the ,church has in our day possessed4 ,his beautiful tomb is in the ,minerva church in ,rome4 ,exactly a century later 7#aedi7 ,cirillo ,franchi wrote on the same subject1 and in the same vein1 to ,ugolino ,gualteruzzi3 ,it is their greatest happiness to contrive that while one is saying ,sanctus1 the other should say ,sabaoth1 and a third ,gloria tua1 with certain howls1 bellowings1 and guttural sounds1 so that they more resemble cats in ,january than flowers in ,may6 ,who recalls now ,ruskin's famous invective against modern ,italian music1 in which1 after lauding a part-song1 done beautifully and joyfully1 which he heard in a smithy in ,perugia1 he goes on3 ,of bestial howling1 and entirely frantic vomiting up of hopelessly damned souls through their still carnal throats1 ,i have heard more than1 please ,god1 ,i will endeavour to hear ever again1 in one of his summers4 ,it is fair to say that the reference here is probably not to church music4 #ac ,the name which we ,english used playfully to give to the great heavy leather curtains which hang at the entrance of the ,roman churches4 #ad ,speaking of the impression of triumph which one receives on entering ,st4 ,peter's1 she continues3 ,tandis que dans les eglises gothiques1 l'impression est de s'agenouiller1 de joindre les mains avec un sentiment d'humble priere et de profond regret1 dans ,st4 ,pierre1 au contraire1 le mouvement involuntaire serait d'ouvrir les bras en signe de joie1 de relever la tete avec bonheur et epanouissement4--,recit d'une ,soeur1 ii4 #bih4 #ae ,the thirteenth centenary of ,st4 ,gregory the ,great 7d4 ,march #ab1 #aijd74 #af ,it was at this supreme moment that an ,englishman of the baser sort once rose to his feet1 and looking round exclaimed1 ,is there no one in this vast assemblage who will lift up his voice with me1 and protest against this idolatry8 ,if you don't get down in double quick time1 retorted an ,american who was on his knees close by1 there's one man in this vast assemblage who will lift up his foot and kick you out of the church6 #ag ,a day or two after writing these lines 7#aiba7 ,i heard that this famous palazzo had been acquired as an official residence by the ,brazilian ,ambassador to the ,quirinal4 #ah ,the ,scottish ,earldom of ,newburgh 7#affj71 of which ,kynnaird was the second title1 had been adjudged to ,prince ,bandini's mother by the ,house of ,lords in #aheh4 ,the ,duca ,mandragone consulted me as to the expense of three years at ,oxford for his son4 ,he thought the sum ,i named very reasonable2 but ,i really believe he supposed me to be quoting the figure in lire1 not in pounds sterling1 which he found quite impossible4 #ai ,would ,lady ,x---- 7who was familiar with ,courts7 have acted thus in an audience granted her by ,king ,edward ,,vii48 ,i rather think not4 #bj ,verse #d4 ,filii tui sicut noveliae olivarum1 in circuitu mensae tuae4 #ai ,,chapter ,,ii #aijd ,abbot ,gasquet1 who had many friends in ,oxford1 was much in residence there during the summer of #aijd1 as he was giving the weekly conferences to our undergraduates4 ,his host1 ,mgr4 ,kennard1 usually asked me to dinner on ,sundays1 to keep the ,abbot going1 which released me from the chilly collation 7cold mutton and cold rhubarb pie71 the orthodox ,sabbath evening fare in so many households4#a ,i recall the lovely ,sundays of this summer term1 and the crowds of peripatetic dons and clerics in the parks and on the river bank3 many of them1 ,i fancy1 the serious-minded persons who would have thought it their duty1 a year previously1 to attend the afternoon university sermon1 lately abolished4 ,the afternoon discourse had come to be allotted to the second-rate preachers2 and ,i had heard of a clergyman who1 when charged with walking in the country instead of attending at ,st4 ,mary's1 defended himself by saying that he preferred sermons from stones to sermons from sticks6#b #bj ,the biggest clerical gathering ,i ever saw in ,oxford was on a bright ,may afternoon in #aijd1 when hundreds of parsons were whipped up from the country to oppose the abolition of the statute restricting the honour-theology examinerships to clergymen4 ,scores of black-coats were hanging about the ,clarendon ,buildings1 waiting to go in and vote2 and they boo'd and cat-called in the theatre1 refusing to let their opponents be heard4 ,they carried their point by an enormous majority4#c ,kennard took me to ,london1 on another day in ,may1 to see the ,academy--some astonishing ,sargents1 ,mrs4 ,wertheimer all in black1 with diamonds which made you wink1 and the ,duchess of ,sutherland in arsenic green1 painted against a background of dewy magnolia-leaves1 extraordinarily vivid and brilliant4 ,i was at ,blenheim a few days later1 and admired there 7besides the wonderful tapestries and a roomful of ,reynolds's7 two striking portraits--one by ,helleu1 the other by ,carolus-,duran--of the young ,american ,duchess of ,marlborough4 ,an enjoyable event in ,june was the quadrennial open-air ,greek play at ,bradfield ,college--,alcestis on this occasion1 not so thrilling as ,agamemnon four years ago1 but very well done1 and the death of the heroine really very touching4 ,a showery #ba garden party at beautiful ,osterley followed close on this3 the ,crown ,prince of ,sweden1 who was the guest of honour1 had forgotten to announce the hour of his arrival1 was not met at the station1 and walked up in the rain4 ,i sat for a time with ,bishop ,patterson and the old ,duke of ,rutland 7looking very tottery71 and we spoke of odd texts for sermons4 ,the ,bishop mentioned a total abstinence preacher who could find nothing more suitable than ,the young men who carried the bier stood still6 ,the ,duke's contribution was the verse ,let him that is on the housetop not come down1 the sermon being against chignons1 and the actual text the last half of the verse--,top-knot come down6 ,they were both pleased with my reminiscence of a sermon preached against ,galileo1 in #afae1 from the text1 ,viri ,galilaei1 quid statis aspicientes in coelum8 ,as soon as ,i could after term ,i went north to ,scotland1 where ,i was engaged to superintend the ,oxford ,local examinations at the ,benedictine convent school at ,dumfries4 ,it was a new experience for me to preside over school-girls6 ,i found them much less fidgety than boys1 but it struck me that the masses of hair tumbling into their eyes and over their desks must be a nuisance3 however1 ,i suppose they are used to it4 ,the convent1 founded by old ,lady ,herries1 was delightfully placed atop of a high hill1 overlooking the river ,nith1 the picturesque old ,border town1 and a wide expanse of my native ,galloway4 ,my work over1 ,i went on to visit the ,edmonstoune-,cranstouns at their charming home close to the tumbling ,clyde4 ,i found them entertaining a party of ,canadian bowlers and their ladies2 #bb and in the course of the day we were all decorated with the ,order of the ,maple-leaf6 ,i went south after this to spend a few days with my good old friend ,bishop ,wilkinson1 at ,ushaw ,college1 near ,durham1 of which he was president4 ,an old ,harrovian1 and one of the few survivors of ,newman's companions at ,littlemore1 he was himself a ,durham man 7his father had owned a large estate in the county71 and had been a keen farmer1 as well as an excellent parish priest1 before his elevation to the bishopric of ,hexham4 ,he showed me all over the finely equipped college 7which he had done much to improve71 and pointing out a ,dutch landscape1 with cattle grazing1 hanging in a corridor1 remarked1 ,that is by a famous 'old master4' ,i don't know much about pictures1 but ,i do know something about cows2 and ,god never made a cow like that one6#d ,the good old man held an ordination during my visit1 and was quite delighted 7being himself a thorough ,john ,bull7 that ,john ,bull happened to be the name of one of his candidates for the priesthood4 ,come again soon1 he said1 when ,i kissed his ring as ,i took my leave2 they give us wine at table when there is a guest1 and ,i do like a glass of sherry with my lunch4 ,the old bishop lived for nearly four years longer1 but ,i never saw him again4 ,i was delighted with a visit ,i paid a little later to ,hawkesyard ,priory1 the newly acquired property #bc of the ,dominicans in ,staffordshire3 a handsome modern house 7now their school7 in a finely-timbered park1 and close by the new monastery1 its spacious chapel1 with carved oak stalls1 a great sculptured reredos recalling ,all ,souls or ,new ,college1 and an organ which had been in our chapel at ,eton in my school days4 ,i made acquaintance here with the young ,blackfriar who was to matriculate in the autumn at our ,benedictine ,hall--the first swallow1 it was hoped1 of the ,dominican summer1 the revival of the venerable ,order of ,preachers in gremio universitatis4#e ,a kind and musical friend#f insisted on carrying me off this ,august to ,munich1 to attend the ,mozart-,wagner festival there4 ,we stayed at the famous old ,four ,seasons1 and ,i enjoyed renewing acquaintance1 after more than thirty years1 with a city which seemed to me very like what it was in #ahga4 ,the ,mozart operas 7at the small ,residenz-theater7 were rather disappointing4 ,the title-role in ,don ,giovanni was perfectly done by ,feinhals2 but ,anna and ,elvira squalled1 not even in tune4 ,the enchanting music of ,zauberfloete hardly compensated for the tedious story2 and no one except the #bd ,sarastro 7one ,hesch1 a ,viennese7 was first-class4 ,the ,wagner plays1 in the noble new ,prinz ,regenten theatre1 pleased me much more3 ,knote and ,van ,rooy were quite excellent1 and ,feinhals even better as the ,flying ,dutchman than as ,don ,giovanni4 ,i heard more ,mozart on the ,assumption in our ,benedictine basilica of ,st4 ,boniface--the ,twelfth ,mass1 done by a mixed choir in the gallery6 ,i preferred the ,sunday high mass at the beautiful old ,frauenkirche1 with its exquisite stained glass1 and its towers crowned with the curious renaissance cupolas which the ,muencheners first called ,italian caps1 and later masskruege1 or beer-mugs4 ,i admired the attention and devotion of the great congregation at the cathedral3 a few stood1 nearly all knelt1 throughout the long service1 but no one seemed to think of sitting4 ,we made one day the pleasant steamer trip round ,lake ,starnberg1 with its pretty wooded shores1 and the dim mysterious snow-clad ,alps 7,wetterstein and other peaks7 looming in the background4 ,a middle-aged ,graf on board 7,i think an ex-diplomatist7 talked interestingly on many subjects1 ,bismarck among others4 ,he said that the only serious attempt at reconciliation between him and the ,kaiser1 ten years before1 had been frustrated not by the latter but by ,bismarck himself1 who was constantly ridiculing the young ,emperor both in public and in private4 ,it was odd1 he added1 how the number three had pervaded ,bismarck's life and personality4 ,his motto was ,in ,trinitate robur3 he had served three emperors1 fought in three wars1 signed three treaties of peace1 established the ,triple ,alliance1 had three children and three estates2 and #be his arms were a trefoil and three oak-leaves4 ,talking of ,austria1 our friend quoted a dictum of ,talleyrand 7very interesting in #aiba7--;,austria is the ,house of ,lords of ,europe3 as long as it is not dissolved it will restrain the ,commons4 ,dining together in our hotel at ,munich1 he told us that the ,four ,seasons possessed1 or had possessed1 the finest wine in ,europe1 having bought up ,prince ,metternich's famous cellar 7including his priceless ,johannisberger and ,steinberger ,cabinet hocks7 at his death4 ,of ,metternich he said it was a fact that in #ahbe ,cardinal ,albani was instructed by the ,pope to sound the great statesman as to whether he desired a ,cardinal's hat--in which case1 added his ,holiness1 ,i will propose him in the next ,secret ,consistory4 ,we were much amused at reading in a local newspaper the result of a longest word competition4 ,the prize-winners were ,transvaaltruppentropentransport trampelthiertreibentrauungsthraenentrago edie1 and ,mekkamuselmannenmeuchelmoerdermohrenmut termarmormonumentenmacher6#g ,i had hitherto considered the longest existing word to be the ,cherokee ,winitawigeginaliskawlungtanawneletisest i2 it was given me by a ,french missionary to that ,north ,american tribe1 whom ,i once met at the ,comte de ,franqueville's house in ,paris1 #bf and who said it meant1 ,they-will-now-have-finished-their-compl iments-to-you-and-to-me6 ,i remember the same good priest telling me that when the first ,french missionary bishop went to ,new ,zealand1 he found the natives incapable of pronouncing the word eveque or bishop1 their language consisting of only thirteen letters1 mostly vowels and liquids4 ,he therefore coined the word picopo1 from episcopus1 which the natives applied to all ,catholics4 ,english ,catholics they called picopo poroyaxono1 from ,port ,jackson 7,sydney71 which most of them had visited in trading ships2 while ,french ,catholics were known as picopo wee-wee1 from the constantly-heard words1 ,oui1 oui4 ,our pleasant sojourn at ,munich over1 we made a bee-line home 7as we had done from ,england to ,bavaria71 without stopping anywhere en route1 as ,i was bound to be present at certain religious celebrations at ,woodchester ,priory1 in the ,vale of ,stroud4 ,i was always much attracted by the ,gloucestershire home of the ,dominican ,order3 it was built of the warm cream-coloured stone of the district1 and with its gables1 low spire1 and high-pitched roofs looked as if it really belonged to the pretty village1 and was not1 like most modern monasteries1 a mere accretion of incongruous buildings round an uninteresting dwelling-house4#h ,from ,woodchester ,i went over one day to ,weston ,birt1 a vast ornate neo-,jacobean mansion set in the loveliest gardens1 and a not unworthy country pendant to the owner's #bg palace in ,park ,lane1 to which 7as ,i told my hostess7 ,i once adjudged the second place among the great houses of ,london4#i ,i spent the rest of the ,long ,vacation at ,fort ,augustus1 whither the summer-like autumn had attracted many visitors1 and where a golf-course had been lately opened4 ,golf1 too1 and nothing but golf1 was in the air during my annual visit to ,st4 ,andrews1 which coincided with the ,medal ,week there4 ,a lady told me that1 looking for a book to give her golfing daughter on her birthday1 she was tempted by a pretty volume called ,evangeline1 ,tale of a ,caddie1 and was disappointed to find that ,longfellow meant something quite different by ,acadie6 ,medal ,day was perfect1 and the crowd enormous4 ,i was passing the links as two famous competitors 7,laidlaw and ,mure ,fergusson7 came in--a cordon round the putting-green1 and masses of spectators watching with bated breath4 ,no cheers or enthusiasm as at cricket or football--a curious 7and ,i thought depressing7 spectacle4 ,in the club ,i came on old ,lord ---- 7of ,session71 anathematizing his luck and his partner1 as his manner was4 ,some one told me that it was only at golf that he really let himself go4 ,once in ,court he addressed a small boy1 whose head hardly appeared above the witness-box1 with dignified solicitude3 ,tell me1 my boy1 do you understand the nature of an #bh oath8 ,aye1 my lord1 came the youngster's prompt response1 ain't ,i your caddie8 ,i think that it was at the climax of the medal-week festivities that the news came of the sudden death 7in his sleep7 of ,sir ,william ,harcourt at ,nuneham1 to which he had only lately succeeded4 ,he had survived just ten years the crowning disappointment of his life1 his passing-over for the premiership on the final resignation of ,gladstone4 ,he had long outlived 7no small achievement7 the intense unpopularity of his early years2 and it seemed almost legendary to recall how three members of parliament had once resolved to invite to dinner the individual they disliked most in the world4 ,covers were laid 7as the reporters say7 for six2 but only one guest turned up--,sir ,william ,vernon ,harcourt1 who had been invited by all three6 ,i reached ,oxford in ,october to find our ,benedictine ,hall migrated from the suburbs to a much more commodious site in dull but rather dignified ,beaumont ,street4#aj ,the proximity of a hideous ,gothic hotel1 and of the ponderous pseudo-,italian ,ashmolean ,galleries1 did not appeal to us2 but the site was conveniently central1 and was moreover holy ground1 for we were within the actual enclosure of the old ,carmelite ,priory1 and close to ,benedictine #bi ,worcester1 beyond which ,cistercian ,rowley 7on the actual site of whose high altar now stands the bookstall of the ,l4,n4,w4,r4 station67 and ,augustinian ,oseney had stretched out into the country4 ,one of my first guests in ,beaumont ,street was ,alfred ,plowden1 the witty and genial ,metropolitan magistrate1 then just sixty1 but as good-looking as ever1 and full of amusing yarns about his ,westminster and ,brasenose days4 ,i think he was the best raconteur ,i ever met1 and one of the most eloquent of speakers when once off on a subject in which he was really interested4 ,on this occasion he got started on ,jamaica1 where he had been private secretary to the ,governor after leaving ,oxford2 and his description of his experiences in that fascinating island was delightful to listen to4 ,lord ,ralph ,kerr's son ,philip1 who got his ,first ,class in history in ,june1 came up this term to try for an ,all ,souls fellowship4 ,there is a sharp competition nowadays for these university plums2 and the qualification is no longer1 as the old jibe ran1 bene natus1 bene vestitus1 medocriter doctus4 ,i prefer the older and sounder standard--bene legere1 bene construere1 bene cantare4 ,there seemed1 by the way1 a certain whimsicality in some cases in the qualifications for the ,rhodes ,scholarships here4 ,i had a call about this time from the ,archbishop of ,st4 ,john's1 ,newfoundland1 who wished to interest me in a scholar from that colony 7called ,sidney ,herbert67 who was coming up after ,christmas4 ,his ,grace said that the youth had been required to pass three tests--a religious one from his parish priest1 an intellectual one1 from the authorities of his college1 and a social one1 from #cj his classmates2 and ,i felt some curiosity as to the nature of the last-named4#aa ,amusing stories were current at this time about the ,rhodes ,scholars4 ,one young don told me that an ,american scholar had replied1 when asked what was his religion1 ,well1 sir1 ,i can best describe myself as a quasi-,christian scientist4--,do you think1 the don asked me1 he meant the word 'quasi' to apply to ',christian' or to 'scientist'8 ,another young ,american drifted into ,keble1 but never attended chapel--a circumstance unheard-of in that exclusively ,anglican preserve4 ,questioned as to whether he was not a member of the ,protestant ,episcopal ,church 7if not1 what on earth was he doing at ,keble871 he rejoined1 ,certainly not2 he was a ',latter-day ,saint'6 ,he was deported without delay to a rather insignificant college1 where it was unkindly said that the ,head was so delighted to get a saint of any kind that he welcomed him with open arms4#ab ,a ,rhodes ,scholar1 who had been also a fellow of his university in ,u4,s4,a41 showed himself so lamentably below the expected standard1 that his ,oxford tutor expressed his surprise at a scholar #ca and a fellow knowing so little4 ,i think you somewhat misapprehend the position1 was the reply4 ,in the ,university of ,x---- fellowships are awarded for purely political reasons4 ,to another college tutor1 who voiced his disappointment that after a complete course at his own university a ,rhodes ,scholar should be so deplorably deficient in ,greek and ,latin1 came the ready explanation3 ,in the university where ,i was raised1 sir1 we only skim the classics6 ,a ,balliol ,rhodes ,scholar1 who had failed to present the essential weekly essay1 replied to his tutor's expostulation1 in the inimitable drawl of the ,middle ,west3 ,well1 sir1 ,i have not found myself able to com-pose an essay on the theme indicated by the college authorities2 but ,i have brought you instead a few notes of my own on the po-sition of ,south ,dakota in ,american politics4 ,the mention of classics reminds me that the question of the retention or abolition of compulsory ,greek was a burning one at this time4 ,congregation had voted for its abolition in the summer of #aijd2 but on ,november #bi we reversed that decision by a majority of #cf4 ,i met ,dean ,liddell's widow at dinner that week1 and said that ,i supposed that she1 like myself1 was old-fashioned enough to want ,greek retained4 ,of course ,i am1 said the old lady3 ,think of the ,lexicon6 which ,i had in truth forgotten for the moment1 as well as the comfortable addition which it no doubt made to her jointure4 ,rushforth of ,st4 ,mary ,hall1 to whom ,i repeated this little dialogue after dinner1 told me that he possessed a letter from ,scott to ,liddell1 calling his attention to ,aristoph4 ,lys41 v4 #abfc1 and #cb adding1 ,do you think that ,greek3 chunage parsene in this line means 'a hunting parson'8 ,talking of ,greek1 ,i interested my friends by citing two lines from the ,ajax1 which 7,i had never seen this noticed7 required only a change from plural to singular to be a perfect invocation to the ,blessed ,virgin3 ,greek3 ,kalo darogon ten te parthena1 aei th horonta panta ten brotois pathe4#ac ,a distinguished visitor to ,oxford this autumn was ,lord ,rosebery1 who came up to open--no1 that is not the word3 to unveil--but ,i do not think it was ever veiled3 let us say to inaugurate1 ,frampton's fine bust of ,lord ,salisbury in the ,union debating-hall4 ,to pronounce the panegyric of a political opponent1 with whose principles1 practice1 and ideals he had always been profoundly at variance1 was just the task for ,lord ,rosebery to perform with perfect tact1 eloquence and taste4 ,his speech was a complete success1 and so was his graceful and polished tribute to the young president of the ,union1 ,w4 ,g4 ,gladstone1 whose likeness1 with his high collar and sleekly-brushed black hair1 to the youthful portrait of his illustrious grandfather1 immediately behind him1 was quite noticeable4 ,a whimsical incident in connection with this visit of the ex-premier may be1 at this distance of time1 recalled without offence4 ,i had repeated to his ,oxford hostess a story told me by the ,principal of a ,scottish university1 of how ,lord ,rosebery1 engaged to speak at a great ,liberal meeting in a #cc northern city1 found himself previously dining with a fanatically teetotal ,provost1 who provided for his guests no other liquid refreshment than orangeade in large glass jugs4 ,as this depressing beverage circulated1 the ,liberal leader's spirits fell almost to zero2 and it was by the advice of my friend the principal that1 between the dinner and the meeting1 he drove ventre a terre to an hotel1 and quaffed a pint of dry champagne before mounting the platform and making a speech of fiery eloquence1 which the good provost attributed entirely to the orangeade6 ,the lady1 unknown to me1 passed on this delectable story to one of the ,union ,committee1 who took it very seriously3 the result being that when ,lord ,rosebery reached the committee-room1 just before the inauguration ceremony1 a grave young man whispered to him confidentially3 ,there are tea and coffee here2 but ,i have got your pint of chaoepagne behind that screen3 will you come and have it now8 ,well1 do you know8 said the great man with his usual tact1#ad ,i think for once in a way ,i will have a cup of coffee6 ,i do not suppose he ever knew exactly why this untimely pint of champagne was proffered to him by his undergraduate hosts2 and he probably thought no more about the matter4 ,lunching with my friend ,bishop ,mitchinson1 the #cd little ,master of ,pembroke1 ,i was shown his new portrait in the hall--quite a good painting1 but not a bit like him1 though not in that respect singular among our ,oxford portraits4 ,the supposed picture of ,devorguilla1 foundress of ,balliol1 is1 ,i have been assured1 the likeness of an ,oxford baker's daughter1 who was tried for bigamy in the eighteenth century4 ,an even more barefaced imposture is the portrait of ,egglesfield 7chaplain to ,queen ,philippa1 wife of ,edward ,,iii1 and founder of ,queen's71 which hangs1 or hung1 in the hall of that college4 ,it is really1 and manifestly1 the likeness of a seventeenth-century ,french prelate--probably ,bossuet--in the episcopal dress of the time of ,louis ,,xiv6 ,most of our ,magdalen portraits are1 ,i think1 authentic2 but then they do not profess to represent personages of the early ,middle ,ages6 ,the best and most interesting portraits at ,oxford belong to the nineteenth century4 ,i always enjoyed showing my friends those of ,tait and ,manning1 side by side in ,balliol ,hall1 and recalling how their college tutor once remarked1 when they had left his room after a lecture3 ,those two undergraduates are worthy and talented young men3 ,i hope ,i shall live to see them both archbishops6 ,his prophetic wish was duly fulfilled1 though he had probably never dreamt of ,canterbury and ,westminster6 ,i remember pleasant visits this autumn to the ,abingdons at ,wytham ,abbey1 their fine old place1 set in loveliest woods1 within an easy drive of ,oxford4 ,why ,abbey8 ,i asked my host1 who did not seem to know that the place had never been a monastery1 though part of the house was of the fifteenth century4 ,lord ,abingdon himself was a kind #ce of patriarch1#ae with a daughter married four and twenty years1 and a small son not yet four4 ,he was trying to dispose of some of his land for building1 but without great success4 ,the ,berkshire side of the ,thames 7to my mind far the most beautiful and attractive7 was not the popular quarter for extensions from ,oxford1 which was spreading far out towards the north in the uninteresting directions of ,banbury and ,woodstock4 ,term over1 ,i went north to spend ,christmas with the ,butes at ,mountstuart1 where ,i found my young host1 as was only natural1 much interested in a recent decision of the ,scottish ,courts1 which had diverted into his pocket ,l#dj1jjj which his father had bequeathed to two of the ,scottish ,catholic dioceses4#af ,my ,christmas here 7the first for many years7 was saddened by old memories2 for ,i missed at every turn the pervading presence of my lost friend1 to whose taste and genius the varied beauty of his island home was so largely due4 ,however1 our large party of young people gave the right note #cf of hilarity to the time2 and if there was little sunshine without 7,i noted that we had never a gleam from ,christmas to ,new ,year71 there was plenty of warmth and brightness and merriment within4 ,the graceful crypt 7all that was yet available7 of the lovely chapel was fragrant and bright with tuberoses1 chrysanthemums and white hyacinths2 and the religious services of the season were carried out with the care and reverence which had been the rule1 under ,lord ,bute's supervision1 for more than thirty years4 ,the day after ,new ,year1 young ,bute left home for ,london and ,central ,africa 7the attraction of the black man never seemed to pall on him71 and ,i made my way to our ,highland ,abbey to spend the remainder of the ,christmas vacation4 #a ,do you very much mind dining in the middle of the day8 a would-be hostess at ,st4 ,andrews once asked ,george ,angus4 ,oh1 not a bit1 was his reply1 as long as ,i get another dinner in the evening6 #b ,it was1 ,i think1 a ,scottish critic who suggested an emendation of the line1 ,sermons from stones1 books in the running brooks4 ,obviously1 he said1 the transposition was a clerical error1 the true reading being1 ,sermons from books1 stones in the running brooks6 #c ,another attempt1 nine years later1 to abolish the same statute was decisively defeated2 but in #aibj the restriction of degrees in divinity to ,anglican clergymen was removed by a unanimous vote1 though the examinerships are still confined to clergymen4 #d ,well1 now1 that is not my idea of an owl1 said a casual visitor to a bird-stuffer's shop1 looking at one sitting on a perch in a rather dark corner4 ,isn't it8 replied the bird-stuffer dryly1 peering up over his spectacles4 ,well1 it's ,god's1 anyhow4 ,the owl was a live one6 #e ,the young ,blackfriar obtained 7in ,history7 the first ,first ,class gained in our ,hall1 rose to be ,provincial of his ,order in ,england1 and had the happiness of seeing1 on ,august #ae1 #aiba1 the foundation stone of a ,dominican church and priory laid at ,oxford4 #f ,music was his hobby3 by profession he was a chemist1 and the ,city ,analyst of ,oxford4 ,i introduced him as such to dear ,mgr4 ,kennard1 who promptly asked us both to dinner1 and during the meal laboriously discussed the mediaeval history of ,oxford1 which he had carefully mugged up beforehand4 ,he had understood me to say that my friend's position was that of ,city ,annalist6 #g ,the ,english of these uncouth concatenations1 which are at least evidence of the facility with which any number of ,german words can be strung together into one1 appears to be 7as far as ,i can unravel them73 #a4 ,the tearful tragedy of the marriage of a dromedary-driver on the transport of ,transvaal troops to the tropics4 #b4 ,the maker of a marble monument for the ,moorish mother of a wholesale assassin among the ,mussulmans at ,mecca4 ,pro-dee-gious6 #h ,such were nearly all our ,benedictine priories in ,england--a circumstance which added to their historic interest1 if not to their architectural homogeneity4 #i ,i was once invited to write an article on the six finest houses in ,london4 ,the word finest1 of course1 wants defining4 ,however1 my selection1 in order of merit1 was3--,holland ,house 7perhaps rather a country house in the metropolitan area than a ,london house71 ,dorchester1 ,stafford1 ,bridgewater1 and ,montagu ,houses1 and ,gwydyr ,house1 ,whitehall4 ,how many ,londoners know the last-named8 #aj ,built about a century previously1 to provide proper access to ,worcester ,college1 then and long afterwards dubbed 7from its remoteness and inaccessibility7 ,botany ,bay4 ,the only approach to it had been by a narrow lane1 across which linen from the wash used to hang1 and once impeded the dignified progress of a ,vice-,chancellor4 ,if there is a college there1 cried the potentate in a passion1 there must be a road to it4 ,and the result was ,beaumont ,street6 #aa ,oxonians know the tradition that an ,all ,souls candidate is invited to dinner at high table1 and given cherry pie2 and that careful note is taken as to the manner in which he deals with the stones6 #ab ,a subsequent legend related that the undergraduates of his new college were greatly interested in discovering 7from reference to an encyclopaedia7 that a ,latter-day ,saint was equivalent to a ,mormon4 ,where were the freshman's wives8 was the natural inquiry4 ,answer came there none2 but the excitement grew intense when it was rumoured that he had applied to a fellow of ,magdalen for six ladies' tickets for the chapel service4 #ac ,and ,i call to my assistance her who is ever a ,virgin ,and who ever looks on all the sufferings among men4 --,,soph4 ,,ajax4 v4 #hce4 #ad ,my lord6 my lord6 a ,midlothian farmer 7who had just been served with an iced souffle7 whispered to his host at a tenants' dinner at ,dalmeny3 ,i'm afraid there's something wrang wi' the pudden3 it's stane cauld4 ,lord ,rosebery instantly called a footman1 and spoke to him in an undertone4 ,no1 do you know8 he said1 turning to his guest with a smile1 it is quite right4 ,i find that this kind of pudding is meant to be cold6 #ae ,less so1 however1 than the then ,earl of ,leicester 7the second71 between whose eldest daughter 7already a grandmother7 and youngest child there was an interval of some fifty years4 ,lord ,ronald ,gower once told ,queen ,victoria 7who liked such titbits of family gossip7 the astonishing1 if not unique1 fact that ,lord ,leicester married exactly a century after his father4 ,the ,queen flatly refused to believe it2 and as the ,court was at the moment at ,aix-les-,bains1 ,lord ,ronald was for the time unable to adduce documentary evidence that he was not pulling her ,majesty's leg4 ,the respective dates were1 as a matter of fact1 #agge and #ahge4 #af ,lord ,bute could never do anything quite like other people2 and his legacies to ,galloway and ,argyll had been hampered by conditions to which no ,catholic bishop1 even if he accepted them for himself1 could possibly bind his successor4 #cg ,,chapter ,,iii #aije ,there had been an official visitation1 by ,abbot ,gasquet1 of our abbey at ,fort ,augustus in ,january1 #aije4 ,i had been unable to attend it1 but the news reached me at ,oxford that one of its results had been the resignation of his office by the abbot4 ,this was not so important as it sounded2 for the ,holy ,see did not see its way 7horrid phrase67 to accept the proffered resignation1 and the abbot remained in office4 ,i attended this month a ,catholic ,demonstration1 as it was called 7a word ,i always hated71 in honour of the ,bishop of ,birmingham--or the ,catholic ,bishop of ,oxford1 as an enthusiastic convert1 who had set up a bookshop in the city1 with a large portrait of ,bishop ,ilsley in the window1 chose to designate him4 ,the function was in the town hall1 and ,father ,bernard ,vaughan made one of his most florid orations1 which got terribly on the nerves of good old ,sir ,john ,day 7the ,catholic judge71 who sat next me on the platform4 ,why on earth doesn't somebody stop him8 he whispered to me in a loud aside1 as the eloquent ,jesuit let himself go on the subject of the ,pope and the ,king4 ,on the other hand1 ,i heard the ,wesleyan ,mayor1 who was in the chair1 murmur to his #ch neighbour1 ,this is eloquence indeed6 ,vocal relief 7as the reporters say at classical concerts7 was afforded by a capital choir1 which sang with amazing energy1 ,faith of our ,fathers1 and ,faber's sentimental hymn1 the opening words of which--,full in the pant 444 are apt to call forth irreverent smiles4 ,i took ,bernard ,vaughan 7who knew little of ,oxford7 a walk round the city on ,sunday afternoon4 ,we looked into one of the most advanced churches1 where a young curate1 his biretta well on the back of his head1 was catechising a class of children4 ,tell me1 children1 we heard him say1 who was the first ,protestant8 ,the ,devil1 ,father6 came the shrill response4 ,yes1 quite right1 the ,devil6 and we left the church much edified4 ,there was good music to be heard in ,oxford in those early days of the year2 and ,i attended some enjoyable concerts with a music-loving member of my ,hall4 ,the boy-prodigies1 of whom there were several above the horizon at this time1 generally had good audiences at ,oxford2 and ,i used to find something inexplicably uncanny in the attainments and performances of these gifted youngsters--,russian1 ,german and ,english4 ,astonishing technique--as far as was possible for half-grown fingers--one might fairly look for2 but whence the sehnsucht1 the passionate yearning1 that one seemed to find in some1 at least1 of their interpretations8 ,that they should feel it appears incredible3 yet it could not have been a mere imitative monkey-trick1 a mere echo of the teaching of their master4 ,and why should there be this precocious development in music alone1 of all the arts8 ,these things want #ci explaining psychologically4 ,i was amused at one of these recitals to hear the eminent violinist ,marie ,hall 7who happened to be sitting next me7 say that the boy 7it was the ,russian ,mischa ,elman7 could not possibly play ,bazzini's ,ronde des ,lutins 7he did play it1 and admirably71 and also that he had suddenly struck1 to the dismay of his impresario1 against appearing as a wunderkind in sailor kit and short socks1 and had insisted on a dress suit6 ,the ,torpids were rowed in icy weather this year2 ,i took ,lady ,gainsborough and her daughter on to ,queen's barge2 and ,queen's 7in which they were interested7 made1 with the help of two ,rhodes ,scholars1 two bumps1 amid shouts of ,go it1 ,quaggas6--a new petit nom since my time1 when only the ,halls had nicknames4 ,tuckwell1 of an older generation than mine1 reports in his reminiscences how ,st4 ,edmund ,hall1 in his time1 was encouraged by cries from the bank of ,on1 ,st4 ,edmund1 on6 and not1 as in these degenerate days1 ,go it1 ,teddy6 ,it was a novelty on the river to see the coaching done from bicycles instead of from horseback4 ,but bicycles were ubiquitous at ,oxford1 and doubtless of the greatest service2 and my young ,benedictines and ,i went far afield awheel on architectural and other excursions4 ,passing the broken and battered park railings of beautiful ,nuneham 7not yet repaired by ,squire ,lulu#a71 my companion commented on their condition2 and ,i told him the legend of the former owner1 who was so #dj disconsolate at the death of his betrothed 7a daughter of ,dean ,liddell7 on their wedding-day1 that he never painted or repaired his park railings again6 ,i heard at the end of ,february of the engagement 7concluded in a beauty-spot of the ,italian ,riviera7 of my young friend ,bute--he would not be twenty-four till ,june--to ,augusta ,bellingham4 ,a boy-and-girl attachment which had found its natural and happy conclusion--that was the whole story1 though the papers1 of course1 were full of impossibly romantic tales about both the young people4 ,they went off straight to ,rome1 in ,christian fashion1 to ask the ,pope's blessing on their betrothal2 and ,i just missed them there1 for ,i had the happiness this spring of another brief visit to ,italy1 at the invitation of a ,neapolitan friend4 ,i spent two or three delightful weeks at the ,bertolini ,palace1 high above dear dirty ,naples1 with an entrancing view over the sunlit bay1 and ,vesuvius 7quite quiescent7 in the background4 ,i found the city not much changed in thirty years1 and1 as always1 much more attractive than its queer and half-savage population4 ,watching the cab-drivers trying to urge their lumbering steeds into a canter1 ,i thought how oddly different are the sounds employed by different nations to make their horses go4 ,the ,englishman makes the well-known untransferable click with his tongue3 the ,norwegian imitates the sound of a kiss3 the ,arab rolls an r-r-r3 the ,neapolitan coachman barks ,wow6 wow6 wow6 ,the subject is worth developing4 ,i met at ,naples1 among other people1 ,sir ,charles ,wyndham1 with his unmistakable ,criterion voice1 and as cynically amusing off the stage as he generally #da was on it4 ,he reminded me of what ,i had forgotten--that ,i had once shown him all over our ,abbey at ,fort ,augustus4 ,i told him of a lecture ,beerbohm ,tree had recently given at ,oxford1 and showed him my copy of a striking passage#b which ,i had transcribed from a shorthand note of the lecture4 ,noble words1 the veteran actor agreed1 ,i know them well2 but they were not written for his ,oxford lecture4 ,i remember them a dozen or more years ago1 in an address he gave 7,i think in #ahia7 to the ,playgoers' ,club2 and the last clause ran--'to point in the twilight of a waning century to the greater light beyond4' ,those words would not of course be applicable in #aijd4 ,i had looked forward to a day in the museum1 with its wonderful sculptures and unique relics of ,pompeii2 but ,i was lost there1 for the whole collection was being rearranged1 and no catalogue available4 ,the ,cathedral too was closed1 being under restoration--for the sixth time in six centuries6 ,some of the ,neapolitan churches seemed to me sadly wanting in internal order and cleanliness1 an exception being a spotless and perfectly-kept convent chapel on the hill1 conveniently near me for daily mass4 ,the ,german ,emperor made1 with his customary suddenness1 a descent on ,naples during #db my stay4 ,the quays and streets were hastily decorated1 and there was a ferment of excitement everywhere2 but ,i fled from the hurly-burly by cable-railway 7funicoli-funicola67 to the heights of ,san ,martino1 to visit the desecrated and abandoned ,certosa1 now a national monument3 tourists trampling about the lovely church with their hats on4 ,it made me sick1 and ,i told the astonished guide so4 ,the cloister garth1 with its sixty white marble columns1 charmed and impressed me2 but all molto triste4 ,three old ,carthusian monks1 ,i heard1 were still permitted to huddle in some corner of their monastery till they dropped and died4#c ,a day ,i spent at ,lucerne on my way home1 in fog1 snow1 and sleet 7no sign of spring71 ,i devoted partly to the ,kriegs-und-,frieden ,museum--chiefly kriegs6 with an astonishingly complete collection of all things appertaining to war4 ,i went to ,downside on my arrival in ,england1 had some talk with the kind abbot on ,fort ,augustus affairs1 and admired the noble church1 a wonderful landmark with its lofty tower1 choir now quite complete externally1 and chevet of flanking chapels4 ,i got to ,arundel in time for the functions of ,holy ,week1 and thought ,i had seen nothing more beautiful in ,italy than ,st4 ,philip's great church on ,maundy ,thursday1 its chapel of repose bright with lilies1 azaleas and tulips1 tall silver candlesticks and hangings of rose-coloured velvet4 ,i had landed in #dc ,england speechless with a cold caught at ,lucerne1 and could neither sing nor preach4 ,summer ,term at ,oxford opened with a snowstorm1 and ,may ,day was glacial4 ,i found ,i had been elected to the new ,county ,club1 a good house with a really charming garden1 and 7to paraphrase ,angelo ,cyrus ,bantam7 rendered bewitching by the absence of ---- undergraduates1 who have an amalgamation of themselves at the ,union4 ,the most noteworthy visitor to the ,union this term was ,sir ,henry ,campbell-,bannerman 7then leader of the ,opposition71 who made a somewhat vitriolic speech1 lasting an hour1 against the ,government4 ,the #eej undergraduates present listened1 cheered frequently--and voted against him by a large majority1 a good deal 7,i heard afterwards7 to the old gentleman's chagrin4 ,the ,archbishop of ,westminster 7,dr4 ,bourne7 came to ,oxford in ,may as the guest of ,mgr4 ,kennard1 who illuminated in his honour the garden and quad of his pretty old house in ,st4 ,aldate's1 and gave a dinner and big reception1 at neither of which ,i could be present1 being laid up from a bicycle-accident4 ,it was ,eights-week1 and his ,grace saw the races one evening1 and ,i think was also present at a ,newman ,society debate1 when a motion advocating the setting up of a ,catholic ,university in ,ireland by the ,government was rejected by a considerable majority4#d ,i was able to hobble to ,balliol a few days later1 when ,sir ,victor ,horsley delivered #dd the ,boyle lecture to a crowded and distinguished audience4 ,i noted down as interesting one thing he said 7,i fancy it was a quotation from somebody else#e73 ,every scientific truth passes through three stages3 in the first it is decried as absurd2 in the second it is said to be opposed to revealed religion2 in the third everybody knew it before6 ,sir ,victor's lecture left me1 rightly or wrongly1 under the impression that he was something of a sceptic2 and ,i asked my neighbour1 a clerical don of note1 from ,keble1 why so many medical bigwigs seemed inclined to atheism4 ,he answered 7oddly enough7 that it was only what ,david had prophesied long ago when he asked despairingly 7,psalm lxxxvii4 #aa71 ,numquid medici suscitabunt et confitebuntur tibi8 7,shall the physicians rise up and praise ,thee87--a curious little bit of exegesis from an ,anglican4#f ,june #af was a busy day--a garden party at ,blenheim1 with special trains for the ,oxford guests2 the ,duchess1 in blue and white and a big black hat1 welcoming her guests in her low1 sweet1 and curiously un-,american voice1 and the little ,duke rather affable in khaki 7he was encamped with the ,oxfordshire ,hussars in the park74 ,we sat about under the big cedars1 and there was organ-music in the cool #de white library1 where ,i noticed that ,sargent's very odd group of the ducal family had been hung--with not altogether happy effect--as a pendant to the famous and beautiful group painted by ,reynolds4 ,i got back to ,oxford just in time for the festival dinner of the ,canning and ,chatham ,clubs1 at which my old schoolfellow ,alfred ,lyttelton1 ,hugh ,cecil1 and other ,tory notabilities1 were guests4 ,alfred spoke admirably3 ,hugh1 though loudly called upon1 refused to speak at all4 ,the ,president of ,magdalen1 by whom ,i sat1 told me in pained tones how some ,christ ,church undergraduates1 suadente diabolo1 had recently scaled the wall into ,magdalen deer-park1 had dragged 7,heaven knew how7 over the wall two of our sacrosanct fallow deer1 and had turned the poor brutes loose in the ,high--an outrage without precedent in the college annals4 ,i duly sympathized4 ,a feature of ,catholic and ,benedictine interest in this year's ,commemoration was the conferring of the honorary doctorate of letters on my old friend and fellow-novice1 ,dom ,germain ,morin1 the distinguished patristic scholar4#g ,i did not attend the hot and tiresome ,encaenia1 but ,i went to the ,magdalen concert1 where ,i found myself talking between the songs to ,lady ,winchilsea1 whose husband and brother-in-law had been friends of mine at ,eton1 and had acted with me1 ,i think1 in more than one school play4 ,the lady was born a ,harcourt1 #df and talked interestingly about beautiful ,nuneham in the days of her girlhood4 ,i met her again next day at ,radley ,college1 where the annual gaudy was always a pleasant wind-up to the summer term4 ,it turned wet1 and the usual concert was given1 not al fresco1 but in the fine old panelled schoolroom with its open roof1 once ,sir ,george ,bowyer's barn4#h ,two days later ,i kept yet another silver jubilee 7following naturally on that of my receiving the ,benedictine habit71 namely the anniversary of my religious profession4 ,being in ,london1 ,i spent the day with what piety was possible1 in the ,dominican monastery at ,haverstock ,hill1 attending high mass in the beautiful church1 dining with the good friars1 and sitting awhile in their pretty shady garden4 ,one of the fathers told me of a notice he had personally seen affixed to a pillar in ,milan ,cathedral in #ahii4 ,i copied it forthwith1 as one of the funniest things of the kind which ,i had ever seen4 ,here it is verbatim3-- ,,appele ,,to ,,charitables4--,the ,brothers 7so-called of ,mercy7 ask some slender ,arms for their ,hospital ,they harbour all kinds of diseases1 and have no respect for religion4 ,i met this evening my nephew ,kelburne1 ,r4,n41 who had just been appointed first lieutenant on #dg ,h4,m4,s4 ,renown 7which was to take the ,prince and ,princess of ,wales to ,india72 he was looking forward to a good spell of leave and plenty of sport in the ,east4 ,he seemed very keen on polo1 and amused me with a yarn about his 7naval7 team having been offered ,l#ej if they would kill ,winston ,churchill in their coming match against the ,house of ,commons6#i ,the event of ,july was ,bute's wedding in ,ireland on the #fth4 ,i travelled straight to ,castle ,bellingham two days previously1 with ,bute's ,scots pipers in my train1 much admired by the populace4 ,i found1 of course1 the little ,louth village1 and indeed the whole countryside1 en fete4 ,the bride-elect1 in inviting me1 had spoken about a quiet wedding at home2 but how was that possible8 for the day could not be other than a popular festival to the warm-hearted folk among whom ,miss ,augusta had spent all her life4 ,the wedding guests1 bidden and unbidden1 converged on the little country church in every imaginable conveyance1 from special trains and motor-cars to the humble donkey-cart4 ,the marriage service was simple and devout1 the officiant being neither cardinal nor bishop1 but the bride's own parish priest1 while the music was grave plain-chant1 perfectly rendered1 with an exquisite motett by ,palestrina4 ,the royal ,stuart tartan worn by the bridegroom1 and the vivid ,st4 ,patrick's blue of the bridesmaids' cloaks and hoods1 made a picturesque splash of colour against the masses of pure white lilies and marguerites with which the church was #dh decorated4 ,most picturesque of all was the going-away of the happy pair from the little fishing-harbour1 whither they were preceded1 accompanied1 and followed by troops of friends4 ,embarking in a white barge manned by oarsmen in the ,bellingham liveries1 they were rowed out to the steamer which was to take them across the sea to their honeymoon in ,galloway4 ,the pipers1 following in another barge1 played ,johnnie ,stuart's gone awa'2 the band on the pier struck up ,come ,back to ,erin2 and amid cheers and tears and acclamations and blessings the white boat turned the corner of the pierhead and glided out over the rippling sunlit waters4 ,we were regaled afterwards with some delightful part-singing by a famous ,dublin choir on the castle lawn4 ,next day ,i departed with the ,loudouns for ,belfast1 where it rained as it can rain only in ,ireland1 and ,i thought of one of ,lady ,dufferin's charming letters from the south of ,france to her ,irish relatives3-- ,o that ,i could transport a bit of that ,provence sky which ,i have been enjoying1 over your dear1 dripping heads in ,ireland6 ,it is a terrible drawback on the goods of life at home to lead a web-foot existence4 ,i sometimes fancy that ,i could put up with any amount of despotic monarchy taken warm1 with ,burgundy1 rather than the ,british constitution1 with all that cold water6 ,we crossed to ,stranraer in rain and mist1 but found the sun shining in ,galloway4 ,the ,loudouns went on to ,ayrshire1 and ,i to visit my niece at ,dunskey1 the new house which already looked old1 with much dark oak1 good pictures1 and fine old prints everywhere4 ,i liked the long and lofty terrace in front1 commanding a beautiful view of the blue #di curve of the ,irish ,sea1 the ,mourne ,mountains in the background1 and1 far to the south-westward1 the ,isle of ,man#aj hanging like an azure cloud on the horizon4 ,everywhere round my dear old home1#aa in farms and village1 gardens and woods1 were signs of the changes and improvements wrought by the late owner1 who had barely lived to see them4 ,sic vos non vobis1 ,i sadly said to myself1 as ,i stood on the point between the two bays at the foot of ,dunskey ,glen 7his chosen resting-place71 and looked at the simple granite cross rising above the brackens and heather4 ,portpatrick ,i found changed out of knowledge1 with its red-roofed houses1 electric light1 golf-course1 and big hotel on the brow of the hill4 ,tout passe4 ,i had loved the quiet old-world village of my childhood1 but ,i could not grudge the place its new prosperity1 and all was full of interest to me4 ,from ,dunskey ,i went on to ,kelburne and ,loudoun ,castle--the latter big1 imposing and bare1 and a little suggestive of ,castle ,carabas6 though new pictures and redecoration did much1 later on1 to improve the interior4 ,my examination-week at the ,dumfries convent followed1 diversified by an interesting visit to the local madhouse 7euphemistically known as the ,crichton ,royal ,institution71 #ej said to be the finest lunatic asylum in ,britain2 with splendid buildings1 in perfect condition1 #hjj acres of fertile land1 and the same number of patients1 from country gentlemen to paupers4 ,the high wall round the establishment was being replaced by a hedge1 and the attendants were kept out of sight as much as possible1 in accordance with the modern theory of not letting lunatics know that they were under restraint4#ab ,the luxuriousness of the whole place1 in comparison with the home surroundings of most of the inmates1 was very noticeable2 and the spectacle of a doited farm-labourer seated in an arm-chair in a carpeted lounge1 reading the ,graphic upside down1 was certainly curious1 if not instructive4 ,i paid a visit to ,eton this summer1 on the occasion of the laying of the foundation of the ,south ,african war memorial by ,princess ,alexander of ,teck 7her husband and brother were both ,etonians71 who looked charming all in ivory white1 with a long plume of ,eton blue in her hat4 ,the school ,o4,t4,c4 formed the guard of honour1 the only contretemps being that several of the youthful warriors were overcome by the heat1 dropping down in the ranks one after another1 like so many ninepins4 ,the new building was to occupy the site of m' tutors 7the tallest house in college1 he had said to me on my first arrival1 as ,i am the tallest master671 and ,i walked #ea through the hideous building for the last time--memor temporis acti--before going on to the head master's party in his charming garden sloping down to the river--a farewell function1 as ,dr4 ,warre was resigning the head mastership to ,edward ,lyttelton this half1 and several masters were leaving with him4 ,i went to ,london from ,eton to attend ,hyde's marriage to ,miss ,somers ,cocks1 and 7though the season was over7 met many friends afterwards at ,lady ,dudley's house in ,carlton-gardens1 where the wedding guests foregathered4 ,a visit to ,arundel a little later was signalized by great festivities in honour of the birth of the ,duke's little daughter4 ,the four thousand guests who1 as the fancy took them1 danced in the tilting-yard 7converted into a great open-air ballroom71 listened to martial music from military bands1 roamed through the beautiful state-rooms1 or gazed admiringly at the myriad fairy lamps which glowed many-coloured on castle walls1 battlements1 and towers1 were literally of every class4 ,peers and peeresses1 officers and deans and doctors1 and ,sussex county magnates1 mingled freely with the farmers1 artisans1 and workmen who were their fellow-guests4 ,the fete wound up with a grand display of fireworks in the park1 and the host and hostess 7the latter looking very nice in her white summer frock1 with flowing crimson sash and a string of great pearls round her neck71 made every one happy with their affability and kindness4 ,on my way north ,i stayed a few days with the ,gainsboroughs at ,exton1 near ,oakham--my first visit to the little shire of ,rutland4 ,a most attractive place1 ,i thought3 a charming modern ,jacobean #eb house 7the ruins of the ,elizabethan hall1 burnt down a century before1 stood close by73 beautiful gardens and a nobly-timbered park1 in which stands the fine old parish church with its singularly graceful spire4 ,tennis1 al fresco teas1 and much music1 occupied a few days very agreeably2 and ,i then went on to ,st4 ,andrews for my usual autumn sojourn1 which ,i always enjoyed4 ,but my most memorable ,scottish visit this autumn was to ,abbotsford1 which1 curiously enough1 ,i had never yet seen1 though ,i had known its owners for thirty years4 ,my grandfather and ,sir ,walter ,scott had been friends for many years3 they were planning and building at the same time their respective homes in the western and eastern ,lowlands1 and often exchanged visits and letters4 ,here is a little note 7undated7 in which ,sir ,walter acknowledged1 with an apt ,shakespearian reference1 a gift of game from ,blairquhan3-- ,my ,dear ,sir ,david1-- ,i thank you much for your kind present4 ,the pheasants arrived in excellent condition1 and showing1 like ,shakespeare's ,yeomen1 the mettle of their pasture4#ac ,when are you and ,lady ,blair going to take another run down ,tweed8 ,your obliged humble servant1 ,,walter ,,scott4 ,my father had stayed at ,abbotsford as a little boy1 before he entered the ,navy1 and two or three years before ,sir ,walter's death in #ahcb4 ,he had not the customary reminiscence of having sat on #ec the great man's knee2#ad but he remembered a beautiful collie which lay outside the study door1 and refused to let any one enter in his master's absence4 ,we were all brought up on ,scott--his ,tales of a ,grandfather1 his novels and poems4 ,my father seemed to know the latter all by heart3 he would reel them off 7with fine elocution1 too7 by the hour1 and we children loved the stirring music of the ,border songs1 the ,lady of the ,lake and the ,lay of the ,last ,minstrel1 which only in our later and more sophisticated days suggested the answer to a flippant conundrum4#ae ,to me1 of course1 ,abbotsford had1 and has1 a special and peculiar charm1 as having been for more than sixty years one of the ,catholic ,homes of ,scotland4#af ,the incongruous pile sneered at by ,ruskin1 the bizarre architecture which1 ,i suppose1 made ,dean ,stanley describe it as a place to be visited once and never again1 are open to criticism and easily criticized4 ,i prefer the judgment of ,andrew ,lang1 that it is hallowed ground1 and one may not judge it by common standards4 ,to #ed ,catholics it is doubly hallowed--as a ,catholic centre in the sweet ,border-land which ,scott knew and loved so well1 and as the darling seat of one who by the magic of his writings made the ,catholic past of ,scotland live again1 and the last words on whose dying lips were lines from two of the noblest and most sacred hymns in the ,catholic liturgy4#ag ,the ,dowager ,lady ,bute was the occupant of ,abbotsford during my visit there1 and had hoped to make it her home for some time2 but her stay was cut short by a serious motor accident1 in which she and her daughter sustained rather severe injuries4 ,i was at the time at ,dumfries ,house1 where ,bute and his bride were happily settled for the autumn2 and there was of course great concern at the ,abbotsford disaster1 which fortunately turned out less grave than was at first feared4 ,i was interested in the recent additions to ,dumfries ,house1 including a fine ,byzantine chapel1 a saloon lit from the roof for the ,stair tapestries1#ah and a new library-billiard-room1 all so cleverly tucked in by the architect behind the existing wings1 that the beautiful ,adam front remains as it was4 ,lady ,bute1 smartly frocked1 and twinkling with diamonds1 sapphires1 and ropes of pearls1 was quite ,lothair's bride4 ,on ,sunday we had the regulation walk to the lovely old garden1 stables1 farm1 and poultry-yard4 ,a great #ee wale of cocks and hens1#ai among which our hostess dropped one of her priceless earrings1 and we had a long hunt for it4 ,reading my ,glasgow paper in the train next day1 on my way south1 ,i came on a paragraph announcing the reception into the ,roman ,church of the ,professor of ,greek 7,j4 ,s4 ,phillimore7 at ,glasgow ,university--a ,christ ,church man1 and a scholar of the highest distinction4 ,what 7,i thought7 will the unco guid of ,glasgow say now8#bj #a ,sir ,william ,harcourt's son1 commonly known as ,lulu 7now ,viscount ,harcourt71 had lately inherited ,nuneham on the death of his father4 #b ,it ran as follows3 ,in an age when faith is tinged with philosophic doubt1 when love is regarded but as a spasm of the nervous system1 and life itself as but the refrain of a music-hall song1 ,i believe that it is still the function of art to give us light rather than darkness4 ,its teaching should not be to prove that we are descended from monkeys1 but rather to remind us of our affinity with the angels4 ,its mission is not to lead us through the fogs of doubt into the bogs of despair1 but to point us to the greater light beyond4 #c ,on what principle1 ,i could not help asking myself1 are ,benedictines1 ,dominicans1 ,franciscans1 and ,jesuits 7all engaged in active work1 and therefore ex hypothesi dangerous71 freely tolerated in ,rome1 and ,carthusians 7whose only occupation is prayer7 expelled from ,naples8 #d ,on a previous occasion our ,catholic ,society had voted on the same motion in precisely the contrary sense4 ,but the opinions of the ,newman1 as of all university debating societies 7not excluding the ,union71 were quite fluid and indeterminate on almost every subject4 #e ,sir ,charles ,lyell1 ,i am inclined to believe4 ,but ,i cannot place the quotation4 #f ,curious2 because the ,authorized translation 7presumably used at ,keble7 ignores the medici altogether1 its version being ,shall the dead arise and praise ,thee8 ,there is1 ,i fancy1 some authority for my friend's interpretation2 still1 the context seems to show clearly that suscitabunt means rise from the dead1 and that what the words convey is that dead doctors1 like other dead men1 are done with praising ,god anyhow in this world4 #g ,a monk of the abbey of ,maredsous1 in ,belgium1 but by birth a ,norman1 a native of ,caen4 ,he was somewhat of the destructive school of patristic critics1 and ,i once heard it said that ,dom ,germain would not die happy until he had proved to his own satisfaction that all the supposed writings of ,st4 ,augustine were spurious6 #h ,radley ,house1 his birthplace1 had been sold to the college some years before by ,sir ,george ,bowyer1 the eminent ,catholic jurist and writer1 who had preceded ,manning into the ,church in #ahej1 and who built the beautiful church annexed to the ,catholic ,hospital in ,great ,ormond ,street 7removed later to ,st4 ,john's ,wood74 ,i well remember in my early ,catholic days 7,i think about #ahgf7 the excitement caused by the expulsion of ,sir ,george--whose strongly-expressed views on the ,roman question and other matters were highly distasteful to ,british ,liberals--from the ,reform ,club4 #i ,i think ,i heard afterwards that the sailors got him off his pony once or twice2 but the reward was not earned1 and he lived to become ,first ,lord of the ,admiralty just three years later6 #aj ,only visible in the clearest weather4 ,from a point farther south 7the ,mull of ,galloway7 could be descried also1 across the ,solway ,firth1 the ,cumberland hills2 and my grandfather1 standing there1 used to say that he could see five kingdoms--the kingdom of ,scotland1 the kingdom of ,ireland1 the kingdom of ,england1 the kingdom of ,man1 and the kingdom of ,heaven6 #aa ,i had inherited ,dunskey nearly fifty years before1 on my grandfather's death 7#aheg74 ,the place was bought in #aijj by ,charles ,orr ,ewing1 ,m4,p41 who married my niece1 the ,glasgows' eldest daughter4 #ab ,a theory which1 reduced to practice1 had its disadvantages4 ,i remember ,lord ,rosebery writing to the papers complaining that the lunatics of ,epsom1 finding no difficulty1 under the new and improved system1 in escaping from duress1 used occasionally to saunter from the local asylum into his grounds1 and1 ,i think1 even his house1 near by4 #ac ,the reference1 of course1 is to ,king ,henry ,v41 ,act iii41 ,sc4 #b3 ,and you1 good yeomen1 ,whose limbs were made in ,england1 show us here ,the mettle of your pasture4 #ad ,my dear old cousin ,felicia ,skene1 whose father had been one of ,scott's closest friends1 told me that this had been her privilege4 ,so also did the late ,george ,boyle1 sometime ,dean of ,salisbury1 who1 however1 in his autobiography1 speaks merely of having once seen ,sir ,walter 7looking very old and ill7 when he came to call on his 7the ,dean's7 father4 #ae ,if you happened to find an egg on a music-stool1 what poem would it remind you of8 #af ,james ,hope ,scott1 the eminent parliamentary lawyer1 friend of ,newman1 ,manning and ,gladstone1 and husband of ,sir ,walter's granddaughter and eventual heiress1 made his submission to ,rome in #ahea4 ,his daughter ,mary ,monica 7afterwards ,hon4 ,mrs4 ,joseph ,maxwell ,scott71 inherited ,abbotsford at his death2 and it is now owned by her son1 ,general ,walter ,maxwell ,scott4 #ag ,the ,dies ,irae and the ,stabat ,mater4 ,see ,lockhart1 ,life of ,walter ,scott 7#bnd ,ed471 vol4 x41 p4 #bae4 #ah ,from the looms of ,gobelin3 presented by ,louis ,,xiv4 to an ,earl of ,stair1 ,british ,ambassador in ,paris4 ,they had come into the ,dumfries 7,bute7 family through the marriage of a son of the first ,earl of ,stair to ,penelope1 ,countess of ,dumfries in her own right4 ,it was a standing grievance of our old friend the tenth ,earl of ,stair that these tapestries were not at ,lochinch4 #ai ,walechoice1 or selection4 ,a ,fife laird1 driving home across ,magus ,moor after dining not wisely but too well1 fell out of his gig1 and his wig fell off1 but was recovered by his servant4 ,it's no' ma wig1 ,davie1 it's no' ma wig1 he moaned as he lay in the mire1 thrusting the peruke away4 ,you'd best take it1 sir1 said the serving-man dryly2 there's nae wale o' wigs on ,magus ,moor4 #bj ,they said much that was nasty1 but they could not oust the professor 7though they tried their best7 from his professorship4 ,au contraire1 he received promotion soon afterwards1 being elected to the ,chair of ,humanity2 and a protest organized by certain bigots was allowed to lie on the table--i4e41 went into the waste-paper basket4 #ef ,,chapter ,,iv #aije-aijf ,an event of ,benedictine interest in the autumn of #aije1 and one which attracted many visitors to ,downside1 our beautiful abbey among the ,mendip ,hills1 was the long-anticipated opening of the choir of the great church4 ,special trains1 an overflowing guest-house1 elaborate services1 many congratulatory speeches1 and much monastic hospitality1 were1 as customary on such occasions1 the order of the day4 ,architecturally1 ,i confess that ,i found the new choir disappointing3 it but confirmed the impression 7which after many years had become a conviction with me7 that the art of building a real ,gothic church on a grand scale is lost1 gone beyond hope of recovery4 ,ecce signum6 ,design1 material1 workmanship all admirable1 and the result1 alas6 lifeless1 as lifeless as 7say7 the modern cathedrals of ,truro and ,liverpool and ,edinburgh1 the nave of ,bristol1 and the great church of ,our ,lady at ,cambridge4 ,i have seen ,downside compared with ,lichfield3 nay1 some one 7greatly daring7 placed pictures of them side by side in some magazine4 ,vain comparison6 ,lichfield1 built long centuries ago1 is alive still--instinct with the life breathed into it by its unknown creators in the ages of faith2 but these great modern ,gothic churches seem to me #eg to have never lived at all1 to have come into existence still-born4 ,no3 ,gothic architecture1 in this century of ours1 is dead4 ,such life as it has is a simulated1 imitative1 galvanized life1 which is no more real life than the tunes ground out of a pianola or a gramophone are real living music4#a ',tis true1 'tis pity3 pity 'tis1 'tis true4 ,another engagement which ,i had in the west about this time was to preach at the opening of the new ,benedictine church at ,merthyr ,tydvil4 ,bishop ,hedley and ,i travelled thither together from ,cardiff1 through a country which ,god made extremely pretty1 with its deep glens and hills covered with #eh bracken and heather1 but which man1 in search of coal1 has blackened and defaced to an incredible extent3 the whole district1 of course1 a hive of industry4 ,lying in bed at night1 ,i saw through my blindless window the flames belching from a score of furnace-chimneys down the valley1 and thought what it must be to spend one's life in such surroundings4 ,a curious change to find oneself next day in the verdant environment of ,cardiff ,castle1 where1 once within the gates1 one might be miles away from coalpits and from the great industrial city close by4 ,my room was the quondam nursery1 of which the walls had been charmingly decorated by the fanciful genius of ,william ,burges 7the restorer of the castle71 with scenes from children's fairy stories--,jack the ,giant-killer and ,cinderella and ,red ,riding-hood and the rest1 tripping round in delightful procession4 ,the ,welsh metropolis was en fete on the day of my arrival1 in honour of the town having become a city1 and its mayor a lord-mayor2 and ,lord ,bute was giving a big luncheon to civic and other magnates in the beautiful banqueting hall1 adorned with historic frescoes and rich stained glass4 ,the family was smiling gently1 during my visit1 at the news published from a reliable source1 that my young host was to be the new ,viceroy of ,ireland4 ,another report1 equally reliable 7odious word67 published1 a little later1 his portrait and not very eventful biography1 as that of the just-appointed ,under-,foreign ,secretary4 ,why not ,lord ,chancellor or ,commander-in-chief at once8 one was as likely as the other4 ,the reference to the commander-in-chief reminds me that the ,oxford ,union was honoured this #ei 7,october7 term by a visit from ,lord ,roberts1 who gave us a very informing lecture1 illustrated with many maps1 on the ,n4,w4 frontier of ,india and was received by a crowded house with positive shouts of welcome4#b ,almost equally well received1 a week later1 was ,lord ,hugh ,cecil1 who had held no office in the ,union in his undergraduate days1 but had often since taken part in its debates4 ,his theme on this occasion was the interminable fiscal question2 and the curiously poignant and personal note in his oratory appealed1 as it always did1 to his youthful hearers1 who supported him with their votes as well as their applause4 ,a little later there was a great audience in the ,town ,hall1 to hear ,joe ,chamberlain inveigh against the new ,government1#c and preach his fiscal gospel4 ,he was in excellent form1 and looked nothing like seventy1 though his long speech--his last1 ,i think1 before his great break-down--certainly aged him visibly4 ,a little incident at the opening showed his undiminished aptitude for ready repartee4 ,he announced his intention of treating ,tariff ,reform from the ,imperial standpoint1 adding1 ,i am not going to deal with the subject from the economic side2 and then1 as a derisive ,yah6 broke from some disgruntled ,liberals at the back of the hall1 going on without a moment's hesitation--not1 however1 for the reason which ,i see suggests itself to some of the acuter minds among my audience6 #fj ,s---- ,h----1 whom ,i found waiting to see me when ,i got home from the ,town ,hall1 told me that after two years in the ,catholic ,church he was thinking of returning to the flesh-pots of ,anglicanism1 and said 7among other foolish things7 that he had a ,renaissance mind6 ,i ventured to remind him that he had also an immortal soul4 ,how to increase his income seemed his chief preoccupation2 and he did not see his way 7that fatal phrase again67 to do this as a practising ,catholic4 ,wilfrid ,ward1 the ,editor of the ,dublin ,review1 had recently started a dining-and-debating-club in ,london with a rather interesting membership2 and ,i went up in ,november to read a paper on ,catholics at the ,national ,universities4 ,i was less heckled than ,i expected2 but there was some good talk 7as old ,johnson would have said71 and ,i enjoyed the evening4 ,less enjoyable was another evening spent with our ,architectural ,society at ,oxford1 to hear a lecture by ,wells 7fellow and future ,warden7 of ,wadham1 on ,tudor ,oxford an interesting topic1 and treated by a man who knew his subject1 but disfigured by strongly ,protestant interpolations about monks1 ,jesuits1 and ,bloody ,mary1 much out of place in an address to a quite undenominational society4 ,it recalled another paper read to us on the inoffensive subject of ,bells4 ,the reader on that occasion adroitly founded on the text of the inscriptions on church bells a violent diatribe against the invocation of saints and other mediaeval corruptions1 to the intense annoyance of my little friend the ,master of ,pembroke 7himself an ,anglican bishop71 who sat next me1 and whom ,i with difficulty restrained until #fa the end of the lecture from rising to protest1 as he ultimately did with some warmth1 against turning an archaeological address into a polemical sermon4 ,term over1 ,i made my way north to ,beaufort1 arriving there just in time to assist at the unveiling in the village square of ,beauly1 of the ,lovat ,scouts' ,memorial1 for which ,i had written the inscription4#d ,a pretty function1 with much local enthusiasm1 an excellent speech from ,the ,mackintosh1 our new ,lord ,lieutenant1 and of course the inevitable cake and wine banquet1 at which ,i toasted ,lovat4 ,christmas followed1 with a big and merry family party1 the usual seasonable revels1 and some delightful singing from the wife of a ,ross-shire laird1 an ,american lady with a well-trained voice of astonishing sweetness and compass4 ,the ,new ,year found the whole country agog about the coming ,general ,election2 and at ,arundel1 whither ,i went from ,beaufort1 ,i heard ,lady ,edmund ,talbot falsify ,johnson's cynical dictum#e by making an excellent #fb speech on behalf of her husband1 who was laid up in ,london4 ,he retained his seat for ,chichester by a good majority2 and dear little ,wigtownshire remained faithful to a lost cause1 returning ,lord ,stair's eldest son4#f ,but on the whole the ,radical reaction1 turn of the tide1 swing of the pendulum--whichever you liked to call it--was complete1 the very first victim of the debacle being my brother-in-law1 ,charles ,dalrymple1 who was dismissed at ,ipswich1 after twenty years' service1 by nearly #b1jjj votes4 ,he had been given a ,privy ,councillorship by the outgoing ,government2 but this poorly compensated him for being ousted from the ,house of ,commons1 which had been his nursing mother for nearly forty years4#g ,manchester was absolutely swept by the ,liberals1 poor ,sir ,james ,fergusson going to join his brother in limbo1 and ,arthur ,balfour being beaten by a larger majority than either of them4 ,the final result showed--,radical members returned1 #cgh1 against #aef ,unionists4 ,the new ,ministry put educational reform in the front of their programme2 and we ,catholics1 with a section of ,anglicans 7for they were by no means united on the subject71 organized meetings in advance against the nefarious projects of the ,government4 ,i attended some of them1 and heard many speeches1 #fc some of them terribly long and stodgy4 ,a ,hampshire parson1 by whom ,i sat at one of these dreary meetings1 told me1 by way of illustrating the educational standard of his peasant parishioners1 that a bridegroom would thus render the promise in the marriage-service3 ,with my body ,i thee wash up1 and with all my hurdle goods ,i thee and thou6 ,while the bride's version of her promise would be3 ,to 'ave an' to 'old from this day fortnight for betterer 'orse1 for richerer power1 in siggerness 'ealth1 to love cherries and to bay6 ,i copied these interesting formulas into my note-book on the spot4 ,i was happily able to escape1 at the end of term1 from these political alarums and excursions to the ,continent4 ,i longed for ,italy2 but the friend who accompanied me 7and financed us both7 insisted on carrying me to ,nice--a place ,i never loved2 and it proved sunless1 the palms shivering in a mistral and we shivering in sympathy4 ,i used to escape the odious ,promenade des ,anglais 7much more a ,promenade des ,allemands7 by climbing the steep steps into old-world ,nizza1 and talking to the good simple folk1 who 7so the parish priest assured me7 remained devout and pious1 and wonderfully little affected by the manners and morals of the objectionable crowd which haunts ,nice more than any other spot on the ,cote d',azur1 except1 ,i suppose1 ,monte ,carlo4 ,the latter resort we eschewed 7my friend and host was no gambler71 but we had many strolls through the toy-city of ,monaco1 where the tourist is little in evidence4 ,i noticed1 crowning the picturesque promontory1 the new cathedral built by ,m4 ,blanc out of casino profits1 which the ecclesiastical #fd authorities accepted1 ,i suppose1 on the principle of the good old maxim1 ,non olet6#h ,we took a run to ,milan before turning homewards1 and after an hour in the cathedral--impressively vast1 but not 7to my thinking7 impressively beautiful1 either without or within--spent a long day in exploring the far more interesting churches of ,,ss4 ,maurizio1 ,maria delle ,grazie1 ,vittore1 ,lorenzo1 ,giorgio1 and ,ambrogio1 every one well worth visiting1 and the last-named unique1 of course1 in charm and interest4#i ,turin1 where we stayed a day1 was wet and cold2 but the arcades which line the chief streets at least keep the rain off4 ,at ,paris the sun was actually shining1 and the trees on the boulevards sprouting greenly4 ,i read in the ,english papers here of the engagement of my nephew ,kelburn 7the family had only recently dropped the final e from both the title and the castle7#aj to a ,miss ,hyacinth ,bell1 whose pretty floral name conveyed nothing to me4 ,the #fe new ,minister of ,education#aa had also published his ,birreligious ,bill 7as some wags nicknamed it73 it seemed to satisfy nobody--least of all1 of course1 ,catholics4 ,i spent ,easter1 as usual1 at ,arundel1 where a gathering of ,maxwells 7the ,duchess's young relatives7 made the big house cheerful and homelike4 ,the summer term at ,oxford was an uneventful one1 the most interesting event that ,i recall being our annual ,canning and ,chatham dinner1 with a more distinguished gathering than usual4 ,lord ,milner made a remarkable and interesting speech in reply to the toast of ,the ,empire1 and ,smith of ,wadham1 ,m4,p4 7the future ,lord ,chancellor71 was also very eloquent4 ,the ,duke of ,leinster 7then up at ,balliol71 who sat next me1 spoke of the hereditary good relations between his family and ,maynooth ,college1 and amused me by saying that he thought it must be much more interesting to be a ,catholic in ,england than in ,ireland6 ,i motored some of my young ,benedictines over to ,blenheim one day2 and we were1 with other sight-seers1 escorted over the show-part of the palace4 ,the little ,duke burst in on us in one state-room1 and retired precipitately1 banging the door with an audible ,d--n6 ,his ,grace the ,dook of ,marlborough6 announced1 without turning a hair1 the solemn butler who was acting as showman2 and our party was1 of course1 duly impressed4 #ff ,i was summoned this summer to three weddings1 all of interest to me1 the first being that of my nephew ,kelburn1 a pretty country function in ,surrey4 ,the ,bishop of ,worcester tied the knot--impressively1 as the reporters say 7but why cannot an ,anglican dignitary read the ,bible without mouthing it871 and ,i afterwards found in his wife1 ,lady ,barbara ,yeatman-,biggs1 an old friend of my childhood4#ab ,many relatives1 of course1 were present here1 and also1 ten days later1 in the ,chelsea church where ,archdeacon ,sinclair 7genial and impressive1 the newspapers called him7 united my younger sister1 en secondes noces1 to ,captain ,cracroft ,jarvis4 ,i spent the evening of her wedding in the ,house of ,commons1 where ,i had a mind to see our famous new ,radical ,parliament-men gathered together4 ,a very scratch lot they seemed to me to be2 and ,archbishop ,walsh of ,dublin1 whom ,i found beside me in the ,d4,s4,g41 seemed as little impressed as myself by their carryings-on4 ,his ,grace was so pleased with ,carlyle's definition1 or description1 of the ,house1 which ,i quoted to him 7he was apparently unfamiliar with it71 that he promptly copied it down in his note-book3 a high-soaring1 hopelessly-floundering1 ever-babbling1 inarticulate1 dumb dark entity6 ,my third wedding was a picturesque ,irish #fg one--that of ,ninian ,crichton ,stuart to ,lord ,gormanston's only daughter1 with1 of course1 a large party of ,butes and ,prestons gathered at ,gormanston ,castle1 a huge pile mostly modern2 but the quaint little chapel1 ,jacobean ,gothic without and ,empire style within1 gaily adorned with lilies1 marguerites1 and trailing smilax1 dates from #afhg4ac ,it was far too small to hold the wedding guests1 who perforce remained on the lawn outside4 ,i walked with our host1 later in the day1 in the splendidly timbered park1 and the great picturesque untidy ,irish garden2 and he held forth on the hardship of having to live uncomfortably in ,ireland after the luxury of ,colonial governorships4 ,ireland6 a rotten old country1 only fit1 as some one said1 to dig up and use as a top-dressing for ,england6 was the summing-up of his lordship1 whose ancestors had owned the land on which we were walking for some seven centuries4#ad ,i thought his bemoanings rather pathetic2 but he amused me by his recital of a prescription for ,the ,salvation of ,ireland which once appeared 7anonymously7 in a northern newspaper4 ,drain your ,bogs--,fat more ,hogs--,lots more ,lime--,lots more ,chalk--,,lots ,,more ,,work--,,lots ,,less ,,talk6 ,i returned to ,oxford in time for ,commemoration1 at #fh which ,lord ,milner and ,mgr4 ,duchesne1 two of our be-doctored guests1 were very warmly received2 attended the big luncheon in ,all ,souls' library1 where the agreeable ladies who sat on my right and left were totally unknown to me2 and drank coffee in the sunlit quad1 where a band played and ,i met many friends4 ,next day ,i took ship at ,southampton 7a noisy1 shaky1 creaky ship it was7 for ,guernsey1 on a visit to my brother1 who was in command of the ,gunners there4 ,i thought the approach to the island very pretty on a still summer morning3 quaint houses and church towers climbing the hill among trees and gardens1 with a foreground of white sails and blue sea4 ,very pretty too was ,ordnance ,house and its old garden1 with hedges of golden calceolarias and other attractions4 ,i spent a pleasant week here1 delighted with the rocky coast 7reminding me of my native ,wigtownshire7 and the luxuriant gardens1 especially that of the ,lieutenant-,governor1 whose charming house 7he occupied ,lord de ,saumarez's seat7 was full1 as was to be expected1#ae of beautiful naval prints and other relics4 ,of a morning ,i would walk down to ,fort ,cornet--part of it of great antiquity--and watch my brother's guns at sea-target practice1 till my head ached with the roar and concussion4 ,the shooting was excellent1 but the electric firing-apparatus occasionally went wrong1 which might be awkward in battle6 ,i was interested in the fine fifteenth-century parish church of ,st4 ,peter-,port1 of flamboyant ,gothic3 the effect of the interior #fi nave-arches rising almost from the ground1 with hardly any pillars1 is most singular4 ,i had to hurry back to the adjacent island of ,great ,britain 7as the ,cumbrae minister put it71#af to attend the jubilee dinner in ,london of ,st4 ,elisabeth's ,catholic ,hospital1 with ,norfolk in the chair3 a great success1 owing1 ,i think1 to the unusual circumstance that dinner and wine were provided gratis1 the result being much-enhanced subscriptions from the grateful banqueters4 ,i was present a little later at the coming-of-age celebrations of ,lord ,gainsborough's son and heir at ,campden1 the beautiful ,jacobean family seat on the ,cotswold slopes4 ,we sat down seventy to dinner on the evening of ,campden's birthday2 and the youth acquitted himself excellently of what ,i consider 7and ,i have had some experience of majority banquets1 including my own7 one of the most embarrassing tasks which can fall to any young man's lot4 ,i1 being unexpectedly assigned the easier duty of replying for the visitors1 utilized the admirably appropriate opening which ,i had heard not long before from the witty and eloquent ,american ,ambassador1#ag at the dinner of the ,royal ,literary ,fund1 and which was not a chestnut then1 whatever it may be now4 ,from ,campden ,i went on to ,leamington to visit #gj another brother1 who had invited me to witness the ,warwick ,pageant1 ,i think the first1 and certainly the most effective and successful1 of these spectacles1 for which the craze was just beginning to spread through ,england4 ,the dramatic episodes at ,warwick were not always dramatic1 and the dialogue and acting were perhaps not quite worthy of the superb surroundings2 but the setting of the spectacle was absolutely perfect4 ,behind us the towers and battlements of the feudal castle rose above the woods3 on our right the giant oaks of the park1 in their glorious midsummer foliage3 to our left the ,avon glistening like a ribbon of burnished silver2 and in front1 beyond a great expanse of verdant lawn 7the stage of the pageant71 a prospect of enchanting wooded glades and long-drawn sylvan avenues1 down which came the long processions of players1 mounted and afoot1 with singular and striking effect4 ,lord and ,lady ,willoughby de ,broke1 who appeared 7with the splendidly mounted members of their hunt7 as ,louis ,,xi4 and ,margaret of ,scotland1 were conspicuous1 if only because the former acted his part and spoke his lines best of the whole company4 ,the concerted singing was quite charming2 and charming1 too1 the spectacle of the hundred boys of the famous old ,warwick ,grammar-school1 in their pretty dresses of russet and gold1 and their masters costumed as old-world pedagogues4 ,altogether a delightful and notable entertainment1 which ,i was very glad to have seen2 and in other respects ,i enjoyed my visit1 my brother taking me to ,kenilworth1 ,stoneleigh1 ,charlecote1 and other interesting places in that most interesting country4 ,the ,august ,bank-holiday found me at ,scarborough1 #ga of all places in the world1 spending the day there with the two schoolboy sons of my host at a country house in the ,east ,riding4 ,i recall1 at the aquarium there1 my interest on discovering a fact not generally known--namely that fishes can1 and do1 yawn4 ,we saw a turbot yawn twice1 and a cod once4 ,the cod's yawn was remarkable chiefly for its width1 but the turbot's was much more noteworthy4 ,it begins at the lips1 which open as if to suck in water2#ah then the jaws distend themselves and so the yawn goes on1 works through the back of the head1 stretching the plates of the skull almost to cracking point1 and finally comes out at the gills1 which open showing their red lining1 and are inflated for a moment2 and then1 with a gasping kind of shiver1 the fish flattens out again1 until1 if unusually bored1 as it appeared to be by our presence1 it relieves its feelings by another yawn4 ,i left my young friends to enjoy the varied humours of the front2 and climbing up 7as ,i had done at ,nice7 far from the madding crowd1 discovered many quaint and charming bits of old ,scarborough4 ,a policeman told me that they reckoned that at least #abj1jjj visitors were in the town that day2 and they all seemed collected together to view the evening firework display above the ,spa4 ,the biggest crowds ,i had ever seen were at ,epsom on ,derby ,day1 between ,mortlake and ,putney on ,boat-race ,day1 and in ,st4 ,peter's ,square at ,rome on the election-day of ,leo ,,xiii43 but this great congeries at ,scarborough surpassed them all in impressiveness4 ,i #gb turned my back on the set pieces and ,roman candles1 gazed almost awestruck at the vast sea of upturned white faces on the beach below1 lit up from time to time by the lurid glow of coloured fires1 and listened to the cry ,ah-h-h6 of the great multitude as the rockets shrilled up into the starlit sky4 ,mirabile visu et auditu6 it somehow made me think 7at ,scarborough on ,bank ,holiday evening67 of the ,last ,day and the ,valley of ,jehoshaphat4 ,from ,scarborough1 before going north to ,scotland1 ,i went for a few days to ,longridge ,towers1 ,sir ,hubert ,jerningham's beautiful place near ,berwick1 with views on every side over the rolling ,border country4 ,norham's castle steep1 built nine centuries before by ,flambard1 the ,magnificent ,bishop of ,durham1 was on the ,longridge property2 and ,i spent some delightful hours there with my accomplished host1 who was a charming companion1 and 7as became a bachelier-es-lettres of ,paris ,university7 could tell a good story as well in ,french as he could in ,english4 ,he showed me among many curiosities a letter from an early ,quaker which ,i thought worth copying3-- ,,friend ,,john1-- ,i desire thee to be so kind as to go to one of those sinful men in the flesh called an attorney1 and let him take out an instrument1 with a seal fixed thereto1 by means whereof we may seize the outward tabernacle of ,george ,green1 and bring him before the lambskin men at ,westminster1 and teach him to do as he would be done by2 and so ,i rest thy friend in the light1 ,m4,d4 ,mountstuart claimed me for a short visit when ,i had got across the ,border2 and ,i found the big house very cheerful under the new and youthful regime1 and my hostess1 now a happy mother1 driving the baby ,lady ,mary about the island and exhibiting #gc her to the admiring farmers' wives4 ,i made my way up the ,west coast to ,fort ,augustus to spend the rest of the ,oxford ,long1 travelling thence in ,september to ,aberdeen to read a paper at the annual conference of the ,catholic ,truth ,society4 ,there was a large attendance1 ,lady ,lovat doing hostess at a big reception one evening2 and it was pleasant to find oneself in a genuinely ,scottish1 as well as ,catholic1 gathering1 presided over by a ,highland bishop 7,a,eneas ,chisholm of beloved memory71 as patriotic and popular as he was pious and pleasant4 ,my paper1 on ,the ,holy ,see and the ,scottish ,universities1 was very well received1 and the local newspapers did me the honour of reprinting it verbatim next morning1 while the ,scotsman devoted a leading article to it4 ,our principal meeting1 in the largest hall of the city1 wound up not only with ,faith of our ,fathers but ,god save the ,king4 ,is this necessary8 whispered a prelate of ,nationalist leanings to the presiding bishop1 in the middle of the loyal anthem4 ,it may not be necessary1 replied ,bishop ,chisholm1 in a very audible aside1 but it is very right and extremely proper4 ,o si sic omnes6#ai #a ,such seeming exceptions as the noble churches of ,st4 ,john at ,norwich and ,st4 ,philip at ,arundel1 the ,duke of ,newcastle's sumptuous chapel at ,clumber1 the impressive church of the ,irvingites in ,gordon ,square1 are only satisfactory in so far as they are more or less exact imitations of mediaeval ,gothic4 ,the cloisters of ,fort ,augustus ,abbey are beautiful because they are reproductions1 from ,a4 ,w4 ,pugin's note-books1 of real live fifteenth-century tracery4 ,the more the modern ,gothic architect strives to be original 7a hard saying1 but a true one71 the more certainly he fails4 ,and to see how feebly ineffective even his imitations can be1 one need only look at the entrance tower of ,st4 ,swithun's ,quad at ,magdalen1 and compare it with the incomparable ,founder's ,tower immediately opposite4 ,let me add that ,i have no animus against ,downside in particular3 it is merely an instance taken at random to illustrate my thesis4 ,i had felt just the same1 years before1 about the first grandiose plans for our own church at ,fort ,augustus4 ,go to ,westminster ,abbey--you can see it from your windows1 ,i wrote to the architect1 and get an inspiration from that glorious temple of living ,gothic4 ,your elaborate designs have no life1 no reality4 ,if they were ever realized among our ,highland hills1 ,i should expect some genie of the ,arabian ,nights to swoop down one day and whisk the whole impossible structure back to ,victoria ,street6 ,i still recall the pleasure and approval with which ,dom ,gilbert ,dolan of ,downside1 one of the most distinguished of modern ,benedictine architects1 read this letter4 #b ,who was the reporter who once announced 7,i believe it was really a printer's error and not a little bit of malice7 that the ,conservatives among the audience received the candidate with welcoming snouts8 #c ,arthur ,balfour had resigned the premiership in the previous week1 and ,sir ,henry ,campbell-,bannerman had succeeded him4 #d ,not an easy task6 for ,lovat wanted the ,scouts to have all the honour1 which they wished assigned to him4 ,my inscription 7,i believe generally approved7 ran3 ,erected by the ,lovat ,tenantry and ,feuars of the ,aird and ,fort ,augustus ,districts to ,commemorate the ,raising of the ,lovat ,scouts for ,service in ,south ,africa by ,simon ,joseph1 #afth ,lord ,lovat1 ,c4,v4,o41 ,c4,b41 ,d4,s4,o41 who ,desired to ,show that the ,martial ,spirit of their ,ancestors still ,animates the ,highlanders of ,to-,day1 and ,whose ,confidence was ,justified by the ,success in the ,field of the ,gallant ,corps ,whose ,existence was ,due to ,his ,loyalty and ,patriotism4 ,a4,d4 #aije4 #e ,a woman speaking in public is like a dog walking on its hind legs3 it is not well done1 but you are surprised to find it done at all4 #f ,my native county remained consistently and uninterruptedly ,tory for fifty years--from #ahfh1 when it returned ,lord ,garlics1 until #aiah1 when its separate representation was taken from it by the new ,redistribution ,act4 #g ,sir ,charles had sat in ,parliament continuously1 except for a few weeks1 since #ahfh1 when he was first elected for ,buteshire4 ,it was only this very slight break which prevented him from being at one time the ,father of the ,house of ,commons4 #h ,i heard an odd story to the effect that at the ,anglican ,church at ,monte ,carlo no one had ever heard any hymn before ,no4 #cg announced to be sung2 the reason being that the mention of any one from #a to #cf would instantly have sent a quota of the congregation racing down to stake their money on that number6 ,it was1 and is1 a current superstition that a number suggested by something as remote as possible from gambling is likely to prove a lucky one4 #i ,due1 ,i think1 largely to the fact that though the greater part of the church is ninth and tenth century work1 it has the air of being very much older1 and seems to recall the days of ,st4 ,ambrose himself4 #aj ,kelburn was1 ,i believe1 the old spelling4 ,about the same time the ,duke of ,athole dropped his final e also2 and the name-board at the well-known station1 at his castle gates1 displayed1 as ,i observed on my next journey to the ,highlands1 the legend ,blair ,atholl1 instead of ,blair ,athole as formerly4 #aa ,augustine ,birrell1 the distinguished essayist1 whose literary method1 easy1 witty1 and urbane1 has evoked the word birrelling4 ,he succeeded ,mr4 ,bryce a little later as ,irish ,secretary1 and retained that office 7in which he was no more successful than most of his predecessors7 under ,mr4 ,asquith4 #ab ,nee ,legge3 one of a crowd of sisters 7,ladies ,louisa1 ,octavia1 ,wilhelmina1 ,barbara1 ,charlotte1 and ,i know not how many more7 with whom ,i made friends as a small boy when staying with my parents at ,aix-la-,chapelle2 and we saw much of them afterwards4 ,we children used to call them the ,lady-legs4 ,their brother ,augustus1 who was also a friend of my childhood1 became ,bishop of ,lichfield in #ahia4 #ac ,built in ,james ,,ii4's reign 7the original castle was of ,henry ,,vii4's71 when the accession of a ,catholic ,king enabled ,catholics1 ,british and ,irish1 to emerge for a short time from the ,catacombs4 #ad ,lord ,gormanston1 like ,lord ,talbot de ,malahide and a few others1 represented the ,anglo-,irish landowners of the time of ,henry ,,vii41 ,lord of ,ireland4 ,my friend ,lord ,kenmare was typical of the enriched ,elizabethan settlers in the country1 while ,sir ,henry ,bellingham was one of the seventeenth-century group of immigrants popularly known as ,cromwell's ,drummers4 ,three out of the four mentioned were ,catholics4 #ae ,the first baronet and ,baron de ,saumarez was second in command at the ,battle of the ,nile1 and was raised to the peerage by ,william ,,iv4 #af ,it was the parish minister of ,millport1 in ,cumbrae 7off the coast of ,ayrshire7 who habitually prayed at ,divine ,service for the inhabitants of the ,greater and the ,lesser ,cumbraes1 and the adjacent islands of ,great ,britain and ,ireland6 #ag ,the late ,mr4 ,choate4 ,when ,i came into this assembly this evening1 ,i felt very much like the prophet ,daniel when he got into the lion's den4 ,when ,daniel looked around1 and saw the company in which he was1 ',well1' he said1 'whoever's got to do the after-dinner speaking1 it won't be me6' #ah ,a turbot's mouth is twisted on one side1 rather as if it had belonged to a round fish which some one had accidentally trodden on1 and had squashed half-flat4 #ai ,my friend ,lord ,ralph ,kerr had1 some time previously1 refused to preside at a meeting of the same ,society 7of which he was president7 in another ,scottish city1 on learning that the local committee would not permit the ,national ,anthem to be sung at the close4 ,the reason alleged1 that the ,irish in the audience would not stand it1 did not1 naturally1 strike the gallant ,scottish general as an adequate one4 #gd ,,chapter ,v #aijf-aijg ,before returning to ,oxford for the autumn term of #aijf1 ,i spent a pleasant ten days at ,abbotsford with my old friends the ,lane ,foxes1 and visited with them ,dryburgh ,abbey1 ,galashiels1 and other interesting places4 ,melrose1 too1 we thoroughly explored1 agreeing that 7pace ,sir ,walter7 the time for seeing it aright was not by the pale moonlight1 but on a sunlit afternoon1 which alone does justice to the marvellous colouring--grey shot with rose and yellow--of the old stone4 ,modern textbooks talk of the decadence of its architecture1 but it has details of surpassing beauty nevertheless4 ,it was ill exchanging the beauties of ,tweedside in perfect ,september weather for foggy ,london4 ,i arrived there on a ,sunday morning1 just in time for high mass at ,westminster ,cathedral1 of which a fog rather enhances the charm1 softening the raw brick walls and imparting a mysterious and shadowy splendour to the great spaces under the lofty domes4 ,the grave polyphonic music1 perfectly rendered1 greatly pleased me2 but the acoustics of the building seemed to be defective4#a ,a noted preacher was discoursing #ge to an immense congregation on ,pessimism--so the notice-boards informed me2 but it might as well have been on ,optimism for anything ,i could hear of it4 ,walking homewards to ,regent's ,park1 ,i looked in at a ,ritualistic church in ,red ,lion ,square1 where a singular function was in progress in presence of the 7schismatic7 ,archbishop of ,sinai1 under the auspices of a body styling itself ,the ,anglican and ,orthodox ,churches ,union4#b ,as ,i entered1 a clergyman was just remarking from the pulpit that as there was no visible ,church on earth1 or as1 at any rate1 it was temporally broken to bits1 there was no use in looking for a visible head6 a theory which his audience may or may not have found satisfactory4#c ,i lingered for a day at ,birmingham1 on my way to ,oxford1 to attend the opening of the nave of the ,newman ,memorial ,church4 ,it was the sixty-first anniversary of ,newman's reception into the ,church at ,littlemore1 as well as the sixth of the death of ,lord ,bute1 whose conversion was a fruit of the ,oxford movement1 of which ,newman was the inspiring genius4 ,i was pleased with the simplicity1 even austerity1 of the building1 relieved to some extent by the beautiful tints of the double row of marble monoliths1 and by the warm russet of the coved roof of ,spanish chestnut4 ,eight or ten prelates 7the ,archbishop of ,westminster was the preacher7 gave dignity to the function1 which #gf was followed by a rather higgledy-piggledy luncheon at the ,plough and ,harrow next door4 ,the ,norfolk family were of course present in force at their beloved ,oratory1 the ,duke1 with sisters1 brothers-in-law1 nephews and nieces1 being prominent among the large gathering4 ,lord ,ralph ,kerr's boy1 a pupil of the ,fathers1 showed me over the school2 and ,i rather marvelled to see an educational establishment of such deserved repute housed in so quaint a collection of lean-to's and shanties1 the only thing worth looking at being the fine refectory of the ,oratory1 which the schoolboys used as their dining-room4 ,i found ,oxford swept and garnished for the new term1 and my old friend the ,president of ,magdalen installed as ,vice-chancellor1 and performing his multifarious duties 7which included the matriculation of my two ,benedictine freshmen7 with the mingled dignity and urbanity which characterized him4 ,grissell1 who was in residence this term1 invited me to luncheon to meet a ,roman ,prince1 and a lady who had1 he said1 been miraculously cured by the ,madonna of ,pompeii4 ,the cure1 unfortunately1 had been incomplete or temporary1 for the lady had had a relapse1 was in bed1 and could not turn up4 ,the ,roman ,prince1 or princeling1 proved to be ,don ,andrea ,buoncompagni-,ludovisi1 descendant of two ,popes1#d and a freshman at ,merton2 a pleasant youth1 #gg but his ,english1 though fluent1 was vulgar rather than princely4 ,i wondered where he had picked it up4 ,a different type of ,italian whom ,i met the same week was the distinguished ,south ,italian violinist1 ,signor ,simonetti4 ,he had been fiddling at our ,musical ,club on the previous evening--roba ,napolitana1 but clever and interesting4 ,our conversation1 however1 turned not on music but on the ,evil ,eye1 as ,i was anxious to know to what extent the belief in this still prevailed in ,italy4 ,he said it was as persistent as ever1 especially in the south1 and told us how the most famous advocate in ,naples1 in quite recent times1 was so universally accredited with this mysterious power1 that when the leader opposed to him in an impending lawsuit died on the eve of the case coming on1 another lawyer was only with the greatest difficulty found to take his place4 ,he was killed by an accident on the very morning of the trial2 and the dreaded advocate was face to face with the judge1 who was in fear and trembling1 as he expected to have to give judgment against him4 ,the story went that when the judge rose to speak1 his spectacles accidentally fell out of place4 ,i am struck blind6 he cried out2 forgive me1 ,signor ,avvocato--,i have not yet pronounced against you4 ,suddenly his spectacles fell across his nose again4 ,forgive me again1 he said2 ,i can see after all6 ,the ,neapolitans laughed1 but they believed all the same4 ,when this redoubtable advocate fell ill1 half ,naples was praying fervently for his death2 and if one reproached them for desiring the death of a fellowman1 the answer was1 ,non e un uomo1 e un jettatore6 ,signor ,simonetti1 ,i felt pretty sure1 himself #gh sympathized with this sentiment1 although he passed it off as a joke4 ,i contributed a tale of a certain ,count who had been pointed out to me1 during my visit to ,naples in the previous year1 as the most dreaded jettatore in the city4 ,he was dining alone at a restaurant1 and ,i was told that no one1 if they could avoid it1 would sit down in his company4 ,meeting his cousin1 the old ,duca di ,m----1 in the street1 he gave him his arm4 ,the ,duca suddenly slipped1 fell1 and broke his leg4 ,he was stunned by the shock2 and his first words1 on recovering consciousness1 were whispered 7in confidential ,neapolitan patois7 into the ear of his formidable kinsman3 ,grazie1 perche tu me putive accidere1 e te si cuntentate de m'arruinare6 7,thanks2 for you might have killed me1 and you contented yourself with laming me67#e ,some of us went over to ,radley ,college for the usual ,all ,saints' play1 the ,frogs of ,aristophanes1 in ,greek2 and it was ,greek1 no doubt1 to the majority of the audience4 ,books of the words in ,english were1 however1 supplied--an attention1 remarked a local paper1 which the ladies received with unconcealed satisfaction1 and the gentlemen with satisfaction which they vainly endeavoured to conceal4 ,some of the undergraduates present doubtless1 like the schoolboy in ,vice ,versa1 recognized several words from the ,greek ,grammar2 but what pleased me was an elderly clergyman who declined to share his wife's copy of the translation4 ,no1 no1 my #gi dear1 he said1 ,i can follow the ,greek quite sufficiently well6 but before the end of the first act they were both very contentedly looking over the ,english version together4 ,michaelmas ,term is not of course the time for triumphs in the ,schools2 but we were all delighted with the final achievement of the invincible ,cyril ,martindale1 ,s4,j41 who this autumn crowned his previous successes--first classes in ,moderations and ,greats1 the ,hertford and ,craven ,scholarships1 and the ,chancellor's and ,gaisford ,prizes for ,latin and ,greek ,verse--by carrying off the ,derby ,scholarship for the year4 ,another ,jesuit much in evidence at ,oxford at this time was ,bernard ,vaughan1 who was preaching sermons1 giving lectures1 and attending discussions and debates with characteristic energy4 ,colum ,stuart and ,i heard him deliver himself1 at a full-dress meeting of the ,union1 on the subject of ,egotism4 ,his perfervid oratory made one occasionally squirm 7it is the only word72 but he was very well received by his young audience1 and carried the ,house with him4 ,to the ,jesuits and ,benedictines1 already domiciled in ,oxford1 were added this winter the ,franciscan ,capuchins1 who opened with some ceremony their church and seraphic college#f at ,cowley4 ,it was something of an historic event1 this returning of the ,friars to ,oxford after a rustication of #cfg years2 and it evoked general and kindly interest #hj quite outside ,catholic circles4 ,sir ,hubert ,jerningham accompanied me to the inaugural function1 and to dinner later at ,mgr4 ,kennard's4 ,we spoke of the decay of the good old custom1 universal in my youth1 of grace before meals4 ,our host recalled a country squire who1 perfunctorily looking round his table1 would mutter1 ,no parson8 ,thank ,god6#g and hastily seat himself4 ,i told of a ,scots farmer on a ,caledonian ,canal steam-boat1 who1 invited to return thanks1 delivered himself of this sentiment1 ,o ,lord1 we're all floating down the stream of time to the ocean of eternity1 for ,christ's sake1 ,amen6 and ,sir ,hubert had a family story of the chaplain who1 if he espied champagne-glasses on the table1 would begin his grace with ,bountiful ,jehovah6 but if only sherry-glasses1 ,we are not worthy of the least of these ,thy mercies4 ,we all remembered ,mr4 ,mallock's canon1 who1 glancing with clasped hands at the menu1 beginning with two soups1 comprising three entrees1 and ending with ,strasburg pate1 began1 ,o ,thou that sittest between the ,cherubim1 whose glory is so exceeding that even they veil their faces before ,thee2 consecrate to their appointed use these poor morsels before us1 and make them humble instruments in the great scheme of our sanctification4 ,i took ,sir ,hubert next day over the ,clarendon ,press1 which ,i had never myself seen4 ,we were both struck by two things3 all the machinery was ,american1 and there was no electric light1 the whole place being lit by flaring #ha gas-jets4#h ,we had planned that evening to go and hear ,george ,wyndham speak at the ,union2 but it occurred to us1 as a happy thought1 to stay comfortably at home on a foggy ,november night1 and read his speech in next day's ,times4 ,the only important politician ,i heard speak this term was ,bonar ,law1 by whom ,i sat at the ,conservative ,club dinner one evening4 ,i found him a very pleasant neighbour1 and he made as good a speech as ,i ever heard at a gathering of the kind4 ,i made my way northward to ,beaufort for ,christmas1 feeling a bit of a wreck after a sharp bout of influenza1 and enjoyed to the full the breezy sunshine which so often prevails there in mid-winter4 ,there was a shooting-party at ,new ,year1 with pleasant al fresco luncheons in sheltered corners of leafless woods1 and of an evening music1 and ghost stories round a great fire of beechen logs4 ,of telepathy between the dying and the living ,lord ,hamilton gave me a striking instance4 ,he had served in ,south ,africa2 and at dawn1 sleeping on the veldt1 was aroused by an unmistakable voice thrice calling his name4 ,the voice was his father's1 of whose death he heard next day by cable4 ,the quiet conviction with which he narrated this little incident impressed me much4 ,staying at an uncle's in ,edinburgh on my way south1 ,i met at dinner ,lord ,dunedin and some other interesting people2 and there was some good #hb talk on books and poetry4 ,some one quoted ,swinburne's opinion that the two finest lines in the language#i were ,browning's-- ,as the king-bird1 with ages on his plumes1 ,travels to die in his ancestral glooms4 ,three unhackneyed images1 from the ,city of the ,soul1 ,i noted as admirable3 ,the distant rook's faint cawing1 harsh and sweet4 ,black was his hair1 as hyacinths by night4 ,wet green eyes1 like a full chalk stream4 ,the mention of ,mallock reminded me of some of his delectable similes3 ,miss ,drake dropped a short curtsey1 which resembled the collapse of a concertina4 ,above them a seagull passed1 like the drifting petals of a magnolia4 ,she advanced slowly towards the group1 moving along the carpet like a clockwork mouse on wheels4 ,her eyes had the brown moisture that glimmers on a slug's back4 ,a cousin of mine at this dinner1 lately returned from ,china1 amused me by the information that the pigeon-,english word1 or phrase1 for a bishop was ,number one topside heaven pidgin-man6 ,on the evening of my arrival in ,london1 a geographical friend carried me to a notable meeting of his ,society at ,queen's ,hall--the sailor ,duke of the ,abruzzi lecturing1 in quaint staccato #hc ,italian-,english1 on his ascent of ,ruanzori1 in ,equatorial ,africa4 ,the ,king 7with the ,prince of ,wales7 was on the platform--stout1 grey-bearded1 and rather bored1 ,i fancied1 at being deprived of his after-dinner cigar3 he made a nice little speech of thanks and appreciation4 ,a day or two later came the startling news of the great earthquake in ,jamaica1 the only ,englishman who lost his life being my dear old friend ,sir ,james ,fergusson1 whose body was found beneath the ruins of a tobacconist's shop in ,kingston4 ,he was a man of many gifts and many friends1 who had served his country with distinction in almost every part of the ,empire2 and his death was a real tragedy1 as well as a very real grief to me4 ,it was followed very shortly by that of another old friend1 ,susan ,lady ,sherborne2 and two very pleasant houses in ,cornwall ,gardens and ,brook ,street1 where ,i had spent many happy hours1 were thus closed to me4 ,there was some talk1 a little later1 of a memorial to ,sir ,james1 the ,anglican ,bishop of the ,west ,indies suggesting that this should take the form of subscriptions to his church restoration scheme4 ,i ventured strongly to deprecate this proposal in the columns of ,the ,times1 and my objections were emphatically endorsed by ,mr4 ,fleming1 the well-known ,presbyterian minister in ,belgravia4#aj ,two more deaths ,i may note in the early spring of #aijg--the first that of ,professor ,pelham1 president #hd of ,trinity2 a gentleman and a scholar1 a real loss to ,oxford1 and 7incidentally7 one of my kindest friends among college heads1 just as his brother ,sidney 7famous slow bowler and future archdeacon7 had been thirty years before1 when ,i was a feather-headed freshman at ,magdalen4 ,in the same week died our worthy ,chancellor1 ,lord ,goschen1 after little more than three years of office4 ,lords ,rosebery and ,curzon of ,kedleston emerged as the favourites among the many candidates in the air2 but dining with a large party at ,lord ,teignmouth's a little later1 ,i heard it confidently said that the country parsons would almost certainly bring ,curzon in4 ,they came up1 as a matter of fact1 in such swarms that they practically swamped the election1 ,lord ,curzon obtaining #a1aja votes against ,lord ,rosebery's #ddj4 ,i sat1 by the way1 at ,lord ,teignmouth's dinner next an ,american scientist 7odious word67 of some kind1 who told me some odd things about the ,lower ,mississippi4 ,that river1 he said1 had1 in #agf years1 shortened itself by #bdb miles--an average of about l #a_/aj miles per year4 ,from this it followed that in the old ,oolitic-,silurian period1 some #ajj1jjj years ago1 the lower ,mississippi was upwards of #a1cjj1jjj miles long1 and stuck out over the ,gulf of ,mexico like a fishing-rod6 ,i went to ,downside in ,march1 for the solemn blessing of the new abbot1 my kind and learned friend ,dom ,cuthbert ,butler4 ,the elaborate ceremony took nearly three hours3 we were mercifully spared a sermon1 but1 en revanche1 the episcopal and abbatial speeches at the subsequent luncheon were long and rather wearisome4 ,at ,fort ,augustus1 #he whatever the occasion1 we never in those days derogated from the good old monastic usage of silence1 and public reading1 in the refectory4 ,summum ibi fiat silentium1 said ,saint ,benedict3 let no mussitatio delicious ,low ,latin word for whispering be heard there1 or any voice save that of the reader alone4 ,the custom was one1 ,i think1 as congenial to our guests as to their monastic hosts4 ,i was preoccupied at this time with the rapidly-failing health of my oldest ,oxford friend1 ,h4 ,d4 ,grissell of ,brasenose1 who spent half his year in ,rome1 and the other half in what seemed a bit of old ,rome transported to ,oxford4 ,he was the most pertinacious and indefatigable collector ,i ever knew3 coins1 books and bindings1 brass-rubbings1 autographs1 book-plates1 holy relics1 postage-stamps1 even birds' eggs--all was fish that came to his far-flung net2 and he laboured incessantly to make all his collections1 as far as possible1 complete4 ,i found the old man at this time1 rather pathetically1 trying to complete the collection of eggshells which he had begun as a ,harrow boy sixty years before4 ,he insisted on exhibiting every drawer of his cabinet1 and was greatly pleased with the motto which1 ,i told him1 ,sir ,walter ,trevelyan had inscribed on his egg-cabinet3 ,hic ,argus esto1 non ,briareus2 or1 in plain ,english1 ,look1 but don't touch6#aa ,grissell said he would like to affix this classical caution to all his collections of curios2 but he did not live to do this1 or indeed to do much else of #hf any kind4 ,he left ,england before ,easter for ,rome2 and there 7as perhaps he would have wished7 he died very suddenly a few weeks later4 ,by his own desire his body was brought back to ,england1 at great trouble and cost 7these post mortem migrations never appealed to me71 and was laid near his parents' graves in the pretty country churchyard of ,mickleham1 in ,surrey4 ,there was a large gathering in the pouring rain1 ,professor ,robinson ,ellis and ,i representing his many ,oxford friends4 ,as his literary executor1 ,i came into possession of a great number of curious and interesting letters and documents1 dealing chiefly with ,roman matters and the early days of the ,ritual movement at ,oxford and elsewhere4 ,the ,corpus ,professor of ,latin1 old ,robinson ,ellis1 and ,i saw subsequently 7perhaps drawn together by the loss of our common friend7 a good deal of one another4 ,at meat tea1 a meal he dearly loved1 we used to sit long together1 and talk classics1 the only subject in which he seemed in the least interested4 ,i wish ,i had noted down all the odd bits of erudition with which he used to entertain me4 ,cicero's last words1 he said 7,i cannot imagine on what authority7 were ,causa causarum1 miserere mei6#ab ,a curious story 7perhaps mediaeval7 of ,ovid was of how two monks visited his tomb1 and in gratitude for the noble line--the best1 in his own opinion1 that he had ever written--,virtus est licitis abstinuisse bonis1 began reciting ,paters and ,aves for his soul4 ,the poet's spirit1 unhappily1 #hg was unappreciative of their charity2 and a voice was heard from the tomb declaiming the irreverent pentameter3 ,nolo ,paternoster3 carpe1 viator1 iter6 ,the professor told me that in his opinion the best elegiac couplet ever written in ,english was3 ,three ,patagonian apes with their arms extended akimbo3 ,three on a rock were they--seedy1 but happy withal4 ,he said that one of ,dr4 ,johnson's acutest literary criticisms was his remark that ,tacitus seemed rather to have made notes for a historical work than to have written a history4 ,the word jour1 he pointed out to me1 was derived from dies 7though every single letter was different7 through the ,italian--dies1 diurnus1 giorno1 jour4 ,he asked if ,i could tell him the authorship of the striking couplet-- ,mors mortis6 morti mortem nisi morte dedisses1 ,a,eternae vitae janua clausa foret4 ,this ,i was unable to do3 on the other hand1 ,i evoked a chuckle 7whimsical etymologies always pleased him7 by telling him how a fifteenth-century writer#ac had rendered the ,royal ,collegiate ,church of ,windsor into ,latin as ,collegium ,domini ,regis de ,ventomorbido6 ,at the end of ,lent ,term ,i spent a few days at ,eastbourne1 which struck me 7as the ,honourable ,mrs4 ,skewton struck ,mr4 ,dombey7 as being perfectly genteel--no shops on the front1 no minstrels or pierrots or cockshys or vulgarity4 ,the hill behind seemed to swarm with schools3 my host took me to one where he had two sons--a fine #hh situation1 capital playgrounds1 and the head a pleasant capable-seeming little man1 who trotted briskly about on his little ,chippendale legs1 clad in knickerbockers1 and was as keen on his ,aberdeen terriers as on his young pupils4 ,i remember at ,eastbourne a quite appallingly ugly ,town ,hall1 and a surprisingly beautiful fourteenth-century church1 ,i suppose the only bit of old ,eastbourne left4 ,i went on to ,arundel for my usual pleasant ,easter-tide visit2 and after hearing much florid church-music there1 ,i enjoyed1 on ,low ,sunday1 the well-rendered plain-chant at ,westminster ,cathedral2 but ,i did not enjoy a terrible motett composed by an eminent ,jew--the words unintelligible and the music frankly pagan4 ,my nephew ,kelburn and his wife ran me down one day to ,chatham in their new motor--cream-colour lined with crimson1 very smart indeed4 ,he had been lately posted as first lieutenant to ,h4,m4,s4 ,cochrane1 and took us all over the great grey monster1 vastly interesting4 ,we buzzed home through ,cobham and ,rochester1 stopping to look over the grand old ,norman cathedral4 ,how strange1 observed the simple sailor1 looking at the sculptured images round the west doorway1 to see all these old ,roman ,catholic saints in a ,protestant cathedral6 ,how ,i wished some of my young ,oxford friends had been by to hear him6 ,our whole drive to town was of course redolent of ,dickens and ,pickwick--to me1 but not to my modern nephew and niece4 ,for the last week of the vacation a friend was bent on taking me to ,belgium2 but great guns were blowing when we reached the coast1 so we alighted at ,dover and stayed there6 finding it quite #hi an interesting place of sojourn4 ,i was astonished at the antiquity1 extent1 and interest of the ,castle1 especially of its church1 once a ,roman barrack1 and its tower1 the ancient ,pharos or lighthouse4 ,gilbert ,scott and the ,royal ,engineers between them had done their best 7or their worst7 in the way of restoration1 disjoining the ,pharos from the main building1 and adding an ,early ,english 767 front1 windows1 and door2 but it still was1 and is1 by far the oldest edifice in ,england used for religious worship1 and of the greatest antiquarian interest4 ,the event of the summer at ,oxford was the installation of our new ,chancellor1 ,lord ,curzon1 who was by no means content1 like the ,duke of ,wellington1 ,lord ,salisbury1 and others of his not indistinguished predecessors1 to be quietly inducted into office by the university officials at his own country residence4 ,there was a great function at the ,sheldonian1 and a ,latin harangue from my lord which was both elegant and well delivered1 though it was thought by some that his emotional reference to his late wife was a little out of place4 ,oxford had caught the pageant-fever which was this summer devastating ,england2 and a great part of the term was spent 7some cynics said wasted7 in the extensive preparations for our own particular show4 ,when they were all but complete1 one of the historic rags by which ,christ ,church has from time to time distinguished itself broke out1 in consequence of the ,house becoming head of the river2 and among other excesses1 some damage was done to the pageant-stands already erected in the meadows4 ,a few days after this emeute a description of it1 which is really too good to be lost1 #ij appeared in the ,corriere della ,sera of ,milan1 telephoned by our ,london correspondent4 ,i translate literally from the ,italian3-- ,recently the students of ,oxford were beaten by those of ,cambridge in the great annual regatta3 the other day they were defeated by the sportive group 7il gruppo sportivo7 of ,merton ,college2 finally1 they allowed themselves to be vanquished by the sportive section 7la sezione sportiva7 of the ,society of ,christ ,church1 to whom was adjudged the primacy of the ,thames4 ,yesterday1 profoundly moved in their amore proprio1 the students of ,oxford permitted themselves to proceed to deplorable excesses1 even to the point of applying fire to the stands erected on the riverside by the rival ,societies4 ,they set fire also to the tent of the ,secretariat of ,christ ,church1 feeding the flames with the chairs which they discovered in the vicinity4#ad ,i believe that our ,oxford pageant 7in spite of the wet summer7 proved financially successful1 if not altogether so artistically4 ,a few of the scenes were very pretty1 especially the earliest 7,st4 ,frideswide71 and also the one representing ,charles ,i4 and his family at ,oxford4 ,and the ecclesiastical and monastic episodes were instructive1 if only as showing the incompetence of twentieth-century ,anglicanism to reproduce even the externals--much more the spirit--of the ,catholicism of old ,england4 ,even more deplorable was the comic scene 7written by the ,chichele professor of modern history67 in which the clarum et venerabile nomen of one of ,oxford's saintliest sons was dragged in the mud3 ,roger ,racon being depicted as a mountebank cheap-jack1 hawking quack medicines from a #ia motor-bicycle6#ae ,my brother1 who had entertained me at ,warwick1 came as my guest to witness the ,oxford effort2 and we had the rather interesting experience of viewing it in the company of ,rudyard ,kipling and ,mark ,twain4 ,they were both pleased and interested2 but it was impossible to deny that the poetic glamour of the ,warwick pageant 7largely due to the romantic beauty of its setting7 was almost wholly wanting at ,oxford4 ,of the other pageants which were sprouting up all over the country during this summer 7unhappily one of the wettest on record71 ,i attended only one--that held at ,bury ,st4 ,edmunds1 which attracted me as being mainly concerned with ,benedictines4 ,the setting was almost as fine as at ,warwick--verdant lawns1 big trees and the majestic ruins of our famous abbey all in the picture2 and the monks1 mostly represented by blameless curates1 were at least presentable1 not unkempt ragamuffins as at ,oxford4#af ,the appearance of ,abbot ,sampson 7played1 ,i was told1 by a local archdeacon7 was grotesque enough3 he wore throughout a purple chasuble over a black cassock1 with a white mitre1 and strode about brandishing a great wooden crosier6 but he spoke his lines very well4 ,everything1 however1 was spoilt by the pitiless rain1 which #ib fell unceasingly4 ,a clever black-haired lady who played ,boadicea 7,i believe the wife of an ,ipswich dentist7 had to abandon her chariot and horses and appear on foot1 splashing through several inches of mud2 and some of the early ,british matrons and maidens sported umbrellas and mackintoshes6 ,i had to leave half-way through the performance1 chilled to the bone1 and firmly convinced that open-air drama in ,england was a snare and a delusion4 ,mark ,twain1 whom ,i have mentioned above1 was one of the miscellaneous celebrities1 including ,prince ,arthur of ,connaught and ,general ,booth1 whom our ,chancellor nominated for honorary degrees at his first ,encaenia4 ,i met ,mrs4 ,whitelaw ,reid 7the ,american ,ambassadress7 at dinner at ,magdalen on ,commemoration evening1 and lunched with her a few days later at ,dorchester ,house4 ,one of the attaches was told off to show me the famous old ,masters1 about which ,i found he knew a good deal less than ,i did6 ,the same agreeable young ,american accompanied me a little later to ,bradfield1 to see the boys play ,antigone3 a real summer's day1 for once1 and the performance was admirable1 especially that of the title-role1 the youth who played the part proving himself a genuine tragedian4 ,the comments of a lady just behind us1 who was profoundly bored most of the time1 were amusingly fatuous4#ag #ic ,i was in spiritual charge this term of our ,catholic undergraduates 7fifty or so71 their chaplain having gone off on an invalid's holiday1 and left his flock in my care4 ,i was delighted to have the company every week-end of ,robert ,hugh ,benson1 who was giving the ,sunday conferences in our chapel4 ,far from being the snake-like gloomy type of priest so common in fiction1 a weekly paper said of him about this time1 ,father ,benson is a thorough man of the world1 liberal1 amiable1 and vivacious4 ,he was1 of course1 all this and a great deal more2 and ,i greatly appreciated the opportunity which these summer weeks afforded me of becoming really intimate with him4 ,it was the beginning of a genuine friendship1 which was only interrupted 7not1 please ,god1 broken7 by his premature and lamented death seven years later4#ah #a ,very satisfactory1 ,i think1 from an architectural point of view1 said the alderman to his colleague1 as they surveyed together the interior of the new town hall2 but ,i fear the acoustics are not exactly what they ought to be4 ,his companion sniffed several times4 ,do you think not8 he said4 ,i don't notice anything myself6 #b ,greek3 ,henosis tes anglichanes chai tes ,orthodoxou ,echchlesias4 #c ,it was at least a convenient method of disposing of the ,pope and his claims4 #d ,collaterally1 of course3 ,gregory ,,xiii4 7,buoncompagni71 #aegb-aehe2 and ,gregory ,,xv4 7,ludovisi71 #afba-afbc4 ,i interested ,don ,andrea by telling him that ,gregory ,,xiii4 7reformer of the ,julian ,calendar and builder of the ,quirinal7 was probably the last ,pope officially prayed for at ,oxford1 and that in his own college chapel4 ,mass certainly continued to be celebrated in ,merton ,chapel well into the ,pontificate of ,gregory ,,xiii4 #e ,the possession of the ,evil ,eye has never been considered incompatible with the highest moral excellence4 ,pius ,,ix41 who was venerated by his people as a saint1 was nevertheless regarded by many of them as an undoubted jettatore4 #f ,the traditional name given by the ,franciscans to their monastic schools4 ,but they had1 if ,i remember rightly1 sufficient sense of humour not to apply it to their ,cowley seminary4 #g ,nearly1 but not quite1 the shortest grace on record4 ,that palm1 perhaps1 belongs to the north country farmer wiping his mouth with the back of his hand after a plentiful meal1 and ejaculating the single word1 ,then6 #h ,perhaps for the same reason as was given me by a ,christ ,church don1 who rashly prophesied that ,wolsey's great hall would never be lighted by electricity1 as the additional heat given by the gas-jets was absolutely essential by way of supplement to the huge fireplaces4 #i ,a large assumption2 but ,swinburne was doubtless better qualified than most people to make it4 ,the lines are from ,sordello 7ed4 #ahfc1 p4 #dfd74 #aj ,my own idea1 suggested by a proposed memorial to ,goschen at ,rugby school1 where ,james ,fergusson had been his school-fellow1 was that the memory of the latter also should be perpetuated there in some fitting manner4 ,i received letters cordially approving this suggestion2 but ,i never heard whether it was carried out in the case of either1 or both1 of these distinguished public servants4 #aa ,is it necessary to explain that ,argus ,panoptes1 the all-seeing guardian of ,io1 had a hundred eyes1 and ,briareus1 the pugnacious son of ,earth and ,heaven1 a hundred arms8 ,sir ,walter's application of these myths was distinctly neat4 #ab ,authentic or not1 ,i added them to the collection of novissima verba of famous men which ,i had been long compiling4 ,see ,appendix4 #ac ,clement ,maydeston1 in his ,directorii ,defensorium 7,a4,d4 #adie74 ,windsor1 of course1 means the winding shore1 not the sick wind6 #ad ,the truth underlying the last sentence of this delectable report is that some of the wilder rioters chucked the ,secretary of the ,pageant's desk 7containing all his papers7 into the ,cherwell2 but it was rescued so speedily by two of their more sober comrades that no harm was done4 #ae ,this particular episode was really regarded by many people as almost an outrage2 and an article called ,a ,blot on the ,pageant1 which ,i devoted to it in a weekly review1 elicited many expressions of sympathy and approval in ,oxford and elsewhere4 #af ,the ,master of the ,oxford ,pageant1 to whom ,i protested emphatically against the scandalous caricatures of the ,benedictines of ,abingdon1 calmly told me that the ,british public looked on a monk as a comic kind of creature1 and would think itself defrauded unless he were so represented6 #ag ,the lines 7vv4 #hbd-hbf73 ,greek3 echousa 444 tan phrygian xenan tan1 chissos os atenes1 petraia blasta davasen seemed to strike the good lady particularly--the sound1 that is1 not the sense of them4 ,kisson----blast her--d--n her6 ,dear me6 she remarked2 what language1 to be sure6 ,i had no idea that ,antigone pronounced ,antigoan was that kind of young person6 #ah ,the ,rev4 ,r4 ,h4 ,benson died on ,october #ai1 #aiad4 #id ,,chapter ,,vi #aijg-aijh ,the opening of the ,long ,vacation of #aijg was pleasantly signalized for us ,benedictines by the gratifying successes in the ,final ,schools of our little ,hall1 which secured two first classes 7in ,greats and ,history71 and a second class in ,theology4 ,the ,oxford ,magazine was kind enough to point out that this was a remarkable achievement for a ,hall numbering nine undergraduates1 and compared favourably with the percentage of honours at any college in the university4 ,i was given to understand that my young theologian would also have secured his first had he not objected to the matter and form of some of the questions set him1 and declined to answer them6 ,this cheerful news sent me in good spirits up to ,dumfries for my usual week's examinations at the ,benedictine convent school there4 ,i found almost eighty nuns in residence1 including the exiled community of the mother house of ,arras1 whom 7the ,prioress was eighty-five1 and there were several old ladies on crutches7 the great ,french ,republic had driven out of house and home as a danger to the ,state6 ,i had several interesting talks with ,madame la ,prieure1 who had been professed in the reign of ,louis ,philippe1 and who bore her cruel #ie uprootal with true ,french 7and ,christian7 resignation and cheerfulness4 ,i do not know if the tradition about ,st4 ,swithun holds good in ,scotland2 but these days succeeding his festival 7,july #ae7 were certainly almost continuously wet4 ,one of the ,french nuns said that in her country 7,picardy7 ,st4 ,medard was credited with a similar influence1 and quoted the lines-- ,quan ploon per ,san ,medar1 ,ploon quarante jhiours pus tard2 and ,i recalled the ,italian distich about ,st4 ,bibiana 7,december #b7-- ,se piove il giorno di ,santa ,bibiana1 ,piovera per quaranta giorni ed una settimana4 ,i spent a few days at ,longridge ,towers1 ,sir ,hubert ,jerningham's ,border castle1 when my work at ,dumfries was finished1 and found my host1 as usual1 excellent company1 and full of anecdotes1 both ,french and ,english4 ,speaking of a pilgrimage to the shrine of ,st4 ,edmund at ,pontigny in which he had joined some years before1 he said that an ,english newspaper described an open-air benediction given by the ,bishops of ,estrade and ,monte2 the reporters having doubtless been informed that the bishops would mount on the platform to give the blessing6 ,he showed us a cutting from another ,english newspaper1 stating that ,,mm4 ,navire1 ,chavire1 and ,bourrasque had been shipwrecked and drowned at sea6 ,sir ,hubert had a complete set of the ,revue des ,deux ,mondes in his library2 and ,i hunted up for his delectation a passage in which ,m4 ,forgues1 writing on ,english clerical life1 a propos of ,george ,eliot's first book1 #if gave an original etymology for the word tract4 ,il ,rev4 ,amos ,barton a sa ,track ,society1 qui va mettre en ,fair toutes les bonnes femmes du pays1 enregimentees pour depister 7track7 les pauvres heres susceptibles de conversion4 ,the same writer rendered the epithet ,gallio-like 7applied by the minister to the parishioners of ,shepperton7 by pareils a des ,francais6 ,yorkshire1 after ,northumberland1 claimed me for two pleasant visits--the first to the ,herries' at ,everingham1 with its beautiful chapel copied from the ,maison ,carree at ,nimes1 and its famous deer-park1 one of the oldest in ,england 7so ,lord ,herries told me71 and a very different thing1 as one of ,disraeli's country squires in ,lothair remarks1 from a mere park with deer in it4 ,the weather was bright and hot2 and it was a pretty sight to see the droves of fallow-deer1 bucks and does together1 clustering for shade under the great trees near the house4 ,from ,everingham ,i went on to ,bramham1 where ,george ,lane ,fox was spending a happy summer in his old home4 ,he took me everywhere1 through the lovely gardens laid out by ,lenotre1 and 7in a brougham drawn by an ancient hunter and driven by a stud-groom not less ancient7 all over the park1 and up the noble beech avenue called ,bingley's ,walk4 ,my friend had lost his splendid inheritance for conscience' sake2 and it was pleasant to see him1 in old age and enfeebled health1 passing happy days1 through his nephew's hospitality and kindness1 at the well-loved home of his boyhood and youth4 ,i was glad to find myself settled for some golden weeks of ,august and ,september at our abbey among #ig the ,highland hills1 where we were this autumn favoured with almost continuous sunshine4 ,our many guests came and went--some of them busy city men1 enjoying to the full the pure air1 lovely surroundings1 and quiet life in our guest-house1 all to the accompaniment of chiming bells and chanted psalms4 ,whether they found our brown ,gregorians as devotional as the sentimentalist of ,mr4 ,hichens's novel#a ,i know not2 but anyhow to me our monastic plain-chant was restful and pleasant after the odd stuff in the way of church music which had elsewhere assailed my ears4 ,i confess that after our more normal ,oxford hours 7though ,i hope we were not sluggards at our ,hall71 ,i reconciled myself with difficulty to the hour of our uprising in the monastery4 ,the four o'clock matin-bell had always been more or less of a penance to me 7as ,i suppose it was to most of my brethren71 though ,i tried to fortify myself with ,dr4 ,johnson's argument--a purely academic one in the case of that lie-abed old sage--that it is no slight advancement to obtain for so many more hours the consciousness of being2 but an ,american guest of ours1 to whom ,i cited this dictum1 countered it by a forcibly-expressed opinion on the other side by one of the most eminent living specialists in insanity4#b #ih ,one recalls delicious rambles with our brethren or our guests during those sunlit autumn days3 sometimes among the verdant ,glengarry woods1 sometimes at our outlying chapel-of-ease1 some miles up the most beautiful of the glens which run from ,central ,inverness-shire to the sea4 ,a veritable oasis this among the hills1 with its green meadows1 waving pines1 and graceful bridge spanning the rushing river2 and all framing the humble chapel1 its eastern wall adorned with a fresco 7from the brush of one of our artist monks#c7 which the little flock--sadly diminished of late years by emigration--greatly admired and venerated4 ,a week-end was sometimes spent pleasantly and not unprofitably at some remote shooting-lodge1 saying mass for ,catholic tenants1 and perhaps a handful of faithful #ii ,highlanders4 ,one such visit ,i remember this autumn at a lodge in ,glencarron1 a wild wind-swept place1 with the surrounding hilltops already snow-coated1 which ,lord ,wimborne 7for some years ,lovat's tenant at ,beaufort7 had recently acquired4 ,although in the heart of the forest1 the lodge was but two hundred yards from the railway2 there was no station1 but the train would obligingly stop when signalled by the wave of a napkin from the front door6 ,a crofter's cow strayed on the line one day of my stay1 was1 by bad luck1 run over by one of the infrequent trains1 and 7as a newspaper report once said of a similar mischance7 cut literally into calves4#d ,the night before ,i left ,glencarron1 we were all wakened1 and some of us not a little perturbed1 by two very perceptible shocks of earthquake--a phenomenon not unusual in the district4 ,we heard afterwards that at ,glenelg1 on the west coast1 the shocks had been more severe1 and some damage had been done2 but1 as a witty member of our party remarked1 ,glenelg might have been turned inside out1 or upside down1 without suffering any appreciable change4#e ,on my way back to ,fort ,augustus ,i stayed a day at ,beaufort to wish bon voyage to ,lovat's brother-in-law and sister1 who were just off #ajj to visit another married sister at our ,embassy in ,japan1 and 7incidentally7 to travel round the world4 ,i met on the steamer on my way home one of my ,wauchope cousins1 a spinster lady who had gone some time before to live in ,rome1 and had asked me for letters of introduction to two or three ,cardinals4 ,tired of ,rome1 she was now making for the somewhat different milieu of ,rotherhithe1 with some work of the kind popularly called slumming in view4 ,i visited1 on my way south1 a married brother at his charming home in ,berwickshire1 where there was much tennis1 and pleasant expeditions by motor to interesting spots on both sides of the ,border4 ,one lovely autumn day we spent at ,manderston1 where our hostess had her brother1 my lord chancellor of ,oxford ,university1 staying with her4 ,the great man was very affable1 and asked me to go and see him in ,michaelmas ,term1 when he would be in residence at the ,judge's ,lodgings in ,st4 ,giles's4 ,i joined a family gathering at ,newhailes1 a few days later1 for the pretty wedding of my niece1 ,christian ,dalrymple--a very composed bride1 remarked one of the reporters present1 as befitted a lady who had acted as hostess to the leading lights of the ,conservative party ever since she left the schoolroom4#f ,her uncle1 the ,bishop of ,bath and ,wells1 tied the knot 7of course impressively71 and ,i was glad to find myself at ,newhailes in his always pleasant #aja company4 ,driving with him to pay a call or two in the neighbourhood1 ,i amused him with an a propos story of the bishop who rode out on a long round of leaving-calls1 attended by his groom1 who was sent into the house1 before starting1 to get some cards4 ,when they reached the last house1 the order came1 ,leave two cards here1 ,james2 and the unexpected reply followed3 ,i can't1 my lord2 there's only the ace of spades left6 ,after a few days at ,niddrie ,marischal1 the fascinating old seat of the ,wauchopes near ,edinburgh 7,general ,andie ,wauchope's widow had lived there since her husband's gallant death at ,magersfontein71 ,i went to ,cumbrae to visit ,lady ,bute at the ,garrison1 her home on that quaint island in the ,firth of ,clyde4 ,the house1 too1 was quaint though comfortable1 built in semi-ecclesiastical ,gothic1 with a sunk garden in front1 and a charming moonlight view from my window of the broad ,firth1 with the twinkling lights of the tiny town in the foreground4 ,millport was a favourite doon-the-water resort for ,glasgow folk on holiday2 and ,i had quite a congregation at my ,sunday mass in the little chapel in the grounds1 as well as a considerable catechism-class afterwards4 ,winifred ,lady ,howard of ,glossop1 my lady's stepmother1 was paying her a visit1 and as an inveterate globe-trotter 7if the word may be respectfully applied to an elderly peeress7 kept us entertained by stories of men and things in many lands4 ,i spent one afternoon at the college and cathedral of the ,isles1 the quaint group of buildings1 redolent of ,butterfield and looking like an ,oxford college and chapel through the wrong end of a telescope1 which the sixth ,earl of ,glasgow 7my #ajb brother-in-law's predecessor7 had more or less ruined himself in erecting4 ,provost ,ball1 whom ,i found at tea with his sisters1 received me kindly1 and showed me the whole establishment1 which looked rather derelict and neglected 7,i fancy there was very little money to keep it going72 and the college had been closed for some years4 ,some of us crossed the ,firth next day in an absurd little cockle of a motor-boat 7unsuitable1 ,i thought1 for those sometimes stormy seas71 and ,i was glad to find myself on terra firma1 in a comfortable ,white steam-car--my first experience of that mode of propulsion--which whirled us smoothly and swiftly to ,glasgow1 in time for me to take the night train to ,london and ,oxford4 ,in university circles ,i found a certain amount of uneasy trepidation owing to the official presence of ,lord ,curzon4 ,a resident ,chancellor was a phenomenon unprecedented for centuries1 and one unprovided for in the traditional university ritual1 in which the first place was naturally assigned to the ,vice-chancellor4 ,there was much talk as to when1 and in what direction1 the new broom would begin to sweep1 and amusing stories 7probably ben trovati7 of dignified heads of houses being called over the coals at meetings of the ,hebdomadal ,council4 ,personally the ,chancellor made himself very agreeable1 entertaining everybody who was anybody at his fine old mansion1 once the town house of the ,dukes of ,marlborough4 ,it was all1 perhaps1 a little ,vice-regal for us simple ,oxonians1 who were not accustomed to write our names in a big book when we made an afternoon call1 or to be received by a secretary or other underling instead of by our host when we went out to luncheon or dinner4 ,but it #ajc was all rather novel and interesting2 and in any case the little ripples caused on the surface of ,oxford society by our ,chancellor's sayings and doings soon subsided2 for1 as far as ,i remember1 his term of residence did not exceed a month or so altogether4 ,i was kept busy all this autumn term by the considerable work ,i had undertaken 7the contribution of nearly eighty articles7 for the ,american ,catholic ,encyclopaedia4 ,one of the longest was on ,cambridge2 and ,i felt on its completion that ,i knew much more about the sister university than about my own6 ,most of my work was done in the ,bodleian ,library2 and it was a pleasant and welcome change to find oneself installed in the new1 well-lighted and comfortable reading-room arranged in one of the long picture-galleries1 instead of 7as heretofore7 in an obscure and inconvenient corner of ,duke ,humphrey's mediaeval chamber4 ,the then ,bodley's ,librarian was a bit of an oddity1 and perhaps not an ideal holder of one of the most difficult and exacting offices in the university2 but he was always kindness itself to me1 and1 whatever his preoccupations1 was always ready to put at my service his unrivalled knowledge of books and their writers4 ,his memory was stored with all kinds of whimsical rhymes3 sometimes he would stop me in the street1 and--at imminent peril of being run over1 for he was extraordinarily short-sighted--would peer in my face through his big spectacles1 and say1 ,did you ever hear of ----the learned ,archdeacon of ,york1 ,who would eat his soup with a knife and a fork3 ,a feat which he managed so neatly and cleverly1 ,that they made him the ,suffragan ,bishop of ,beverley6 #ajd ,or it would be1 perhaps1 ,listen to this new version of an old saw3 ,teach not your parent's mother to extract ,the embryo juices of an egg by suction3 ,the aged lady can the feat enact ,quite irrespective of your kind instruction4 ,and before ,i had time to smile at the quip ,i would be dragging my friend off the roadway on to the pavement to escape the oncoming tramcar1 bicycle or hansom cab4 ,sometimes we walked together1 usually in quest of some relic of antiquity in the neighbourhood1 in which he would display the most lively interest1 though ,i really believe it was all but invisible to his bodily eyes4 ,one such walk was to inspect the old lepers' chapel of ,st4 ,bartholomew1 in the fields near ,cowley--a lovely derelict fragment of the ages of faith1 which the local ,anglican clergy had expressed their intention of restoring to the ancient worship4 ,you1 said my friend the librarian1 with his ironic smile1 will doubtless regard this promise as what our friend ,dean ,burgon would have called 'polished banter1' the allusion being to a phrase in a sermon preached by the future ,dean of ,chichester at ,st4 ,mary's at the time when the spread of the so-called aesthetic movement was causing some concern to sensible people4 ,these are days1 he cried1 when we hear men speak1 not in polished banter1 but in sober earnest1 of 'living up to their blue china6' ,i heard him speak these words myself2 and recalling that inimitable tone and accent1 can imagine the impression made by a more memorable utterance from the same pulpit1 when the new doctrines of ,darwin were in the air1 and the alleged affinity of man with monkey was #aje fluttering orthodox dovecotes4 ,o ye men of science6 ,o ye men of science6 leave me my ancestors in ,paradise1 and ,i will willingly leave you yours in the ,zoological ,gardens6 ,i had the pleasure in ,november of paying a short visit to the wise and good ,bishop of ,newport1 for a church-opening at ,cardiff4 ,a profit as well as a pleasure1 one may hope2 for indeed no one could spend any time in ,dr4 ,hedley's company without instruction as well as edification4 ,we spoke of the late ,lord ,bute's remarkable philological gifts2 and ,i asked the ,bishop if he had found his ignorance of ,welsh any practical hindrance to the work of his diocese4 ,no1 was his reply4 ,fortunately for me 7for ,i am no ,mezzofanti7 ,i find ,english a good enough means of communication with my people1 the majority of whom are neither ,welsh nor ,english1 but ,irish4 ,i told him1 much to his amusement1 of the advice once given to an ,englishman appointed to a ,welsh 7,anglican7 see1 as to the proper pronunciation of the ,welsh double l4 ,may it please your lordship to place your episcopal tongue lightly against your right reverend teeth1 and to hiss like a goose6 ,a young ,oxford friend of mine whom ,i met at ,cardiff carried me thence to ,lichfield to stay a night at the ,choristers' ,house of which his father was master4 ,it chanced to be ,guy ,fawkes ,day1 and ,i assisted at the fireworks and bonfires of the little singing-boys1 who 7,i was rather interested to find7 did not associate their celebration in the slightest degree with the old ,no ,popery tradition4 ,the merry evening concluded with some delightful part-singing4 ,i recall a week-end at ,arundel when term was over3 a large and cheerful party1 and the usual #ajf parlour games after dinner1 including dumb-crambo1 in which ,i was almost the only spectator2 for everybody else was acting1 the ,duke being a polar bear rolled up in a white hearthrug6 ,my customary ,christmas was spent at ,beaufort1 in a much-diminished family circle4 ,lord ,lovat was on his way home from ,south ,africa1 one brother absent on a sporting tour in ,abyssinia1 another gold-mining in ,rhodesia2 his second sister with her husband in ,japan1 and two others still en voyage round the world4 ,some schoolboy nephews1 however1 and their young sisters1 were a cheerful element in our little party1 and there was a great deal of golf1 good1 bad1 and indifferent1 on the not exactly first-class course recently laid out in the park4#g ,i had to go south soon after ,new ,year1 to tie the knot and preach the wedding sermon at a marriage in ,spanish ,place ,church4#h ,a thoroughly ,scottish function it was1 with ,gordon ,highlander sergeants lining the long nave1 the bridegroom's kilted brother-officers forming a triumphal arch with their claymores1 and a big gathering of friends from the north afterwards at the ,duchess of ,roxburghe's pretty house in ,grosvenor ,street4 ,i attended next evening at our ,westminster dining-club1 and heard #ajg ,father ,maturin read a clever1 if not quite convincing paper1 on ,the ,broad and ,narrow ,mind1 some of his paradoxes provoking a lively subsequent discussion which ,i found very interesting4 ,i had a stimulating neighbour in ,baron ,anatole von ,huegel4 ,the opening of the ,lent ,term of #aijh at ,oxford was dreary enough1 with a succession of the dense white fogs which only the ,thames valley generates in perfection4 ,it is not cheering to come down morning after morning to find what looks like a huge bale of dirty cotton-wool piled up against one's window-panes2 and the news at this time was as depressing as the weather4 ,we heard early in ,february of the brutal murder of the ,king and ,crown ,prince of ,portugal1 before the eyes of wife and mother2 and ,i was saddened in the same month by the death of an exemplary member of our community at ,fort ,augustus1 though that had been long expected4 ,i was myself on the sick-list1 and recall little of interest during these weeks1 except a most excellent lecture--of course on boy scouts--given by ,general ,baden-,powell1 which ,i only wished could have been heard1 not by dons1 ladies1 and undergraduates1 but by the cigarette-slobbering1 street-corner-loafing lads who were1 ,i think1 more in evidence at ,oxford than anywhere else4 ,early in ,march ,i was in ,london1 for the wedding of my old pupil1 ,charles ,vaughan of ,courtfield1 to the pretty niece of the ,duke of ,newcastle4 ,i got to ,westminster ,cathedral an hour before the appointed time3 the chapter-mass was being celebrated1 and waves of sonorous plain-song floating about the great misty domes overhead4 ,after the ceremony ,i joined the wedding guests at the ,ritz for a short time1 and1 amid the frou-frou #ajh and va-et-vient of all the smart people1 managed to impart to a few intimate friends the news that ,i was going into hospital in a few days1 with no very certain prospect of coming out alive6 ,the next fortnight or so was of course taken up with inevitable worries--giving up work for an indefinite period1 resigning for a time 7it turned out to be for good7 the mastership of my ,hall1 and finding a locum tenens letter-writing to a host of inquiring friends1 and all this when physically fit to do nothing4 ,i spent the last days of freedom at ,arundel1 receiving from the good people there every possible kindness2 and on ,march #ah1 under the patronage of the ,archangel ,gabriel 7saint of the day71 betook myself to my nursing home in ,mandeville ,street4 ,nurses 7mine were most kind and devoted71 surgeons and anaesthetists soon got to work2 and for a time at least 7in the almost classic words of ,bret ,harte7 the subsequent proceedings interested me no more4 ,a critical operation1 followed by a slow and difficult convalescence1 ranks1 of course1 among the deeper experiences of a man's life4 ,we were all anxious1 said an ,oxford friend some weeks later1 a good old chemist whom ,i had known for years2 for we heard that you were passing through very deep waters4 ,the expression was an apt one2 and ,i suppose no one rises from such waters quite the same man as he was before4 ,this is not the place to dwell on such thoughts2 but one reflection which occurs to me is that in such a time as ,i am now recalling one realizes1 as perhaps one had never done before1 how many kind people there are in the world1 and appreciates what true friendship is4 ,during #aji my long stay in hospital my nearest relations chanced to be greatly scattered1 some of them in very remote parts of the world4 ,this made me all the more grateful for the extraordinary kindness and attention ,i received1 not only from approved friends1 but from many others whom ,i had hardly ventured to count as such4 ,i remember a little later compiling a kind of libro d'oro1 with a list of the names of all who had been good to me in word or deed during those weary weeks4 ,some of them ,i have hardly ever seen since3 many have passed beyond the sphere of one's gratitude here on earth2 but ,i still sometimes con my list1 and thank the dead as well as the living for what they did for me then4 ,i remember my first drive--round ,regent's ,park1 on a perfect ,may day1 in the steam-car of which ,i have already spoken2 and very tiring ,i found it4 ,after a lazy fortnight at ,st4 ,john's ,lodge1 and daily trundles in a ,bath chair among the gay flower-beds of the park1 ,i was able to get down into the country2 and after a sojourn with ,lady ,encombe and her two jolly little boys near ,rickmansworth 7a wonderfully rural spot1 considering its nearness to ,london71 ,i made my way to ,arundel1 where it was pleasant to meet the ,herries's and other kind friends4 ,the great excitement there was the hoped-for advent of a son and heir1 who made a punctual and welcome appearance before the end of the month1 and was received1 of course1 with public and private jubilations in which ,i was happy to be able to participate4 ,after this ,i paid quite a long visit to my soldier brother at ,kneller ,court1 the pretty place near ,fareham which he was occupying while commanding the ,artillery in that district4 ,there were plenty of #aaj pleasant neighbours1 who treated me to pleasant motor-drives through a charming country little known to me2 and the elm-shaded hall 7,i believe ,sir ,godfrey ,kneller had really lived there once71 with its gay old garden and excellent tennis-lawn1 was a popular resort for young officers from ,portsmouth and elsewhere1 who dropped in almost daily to luncheon1 tea1 or dinner1 and doubtless found the society of a kind hostess and her two pretty daughters a welcome diversion from their naval and military duties4 ,one ,june day we spent in ,portsmouth1 lunching with ,sir ,arthur and ,lady ,fanshawe at ,admiralty ,house1 a big1 cool roomy mansion like a ,french chateau1 full of fine old portraits4 ,we went out afterwards on the flag-captain's launch to see the ,victory1 a visit full of interest1 though ,i was unequal to climbing the companions connecting the five decks4 ,a man whom ,i sat next at tea in the ,admiral's garden said he was connected with the ,patent ,office 7,i do not think he was actually ,comptroller-,general1 but he was something high up in that rather mysterious department of the ,civil ,service71 and told me some entertaining yarns about early patents and monopolies4#i ,one was granted in #afah to two men called ,atkinson and ,morgan1 to find out things in monasteries6 ,another man1 about the same time1 secured the exclusive right of importing lobsters1 which had hitherto cost a penny2 but the patentee bought them out at sea from ,dutch fishermen1 and #aaa sold them at threepence4 ,in ,charles ,i4's reign a doctour in phisick called ,grant got a patent for a fishe-call1 or looking-glass for fishes in the sea1 very useful for fishermen to call all manner of fishes to their netts1 seins1 or hooks4 ,in the same reign it was made compulsory to bury the dead in woollen in order to encourage the wool manufacture2 and ten years later ,widow ,amy ,potter got a 7rather gruesome7 patent for the elegant woollen costume she devised for this purpose4#aj ,i went from ,kneller to spend a breezy week at ,brighton with ,captain ,frank ,grissell1 to whom his brother1 my old ,oxford friend1 had left practically all his possessions and collections1 and who had just purchased a pretty villa in ,preston ,park in which to house them4 ,no brothers were ever more dissimilar or more devoted than ,hartwell1 whose whole interests in life had been ecclesiastical and ,roman1 and his brother ,frank1 ex-cavalry officer1 to whom horses and hunting1 racing and coaching1 were the salt of life4 ,he had arranged his brother's miscellaneous treasures1 in one or two spacious rooms1 with great care and pains2 and it was a curious experience to pass out of an atmosphere and environment of religious paintings1 ,roman bookbindings1 panels from cardinals' coaches1 ,papal coins and medals1 ,italian ecclesiological literature1 and what the #aab ,french call objets de piete of every description1 to the ex-lancer's own cheerful living-rooms3 the walls hung with pictures of hunters1 steeplechasers1 coaching and sporting scenes2 stuffed heads1 tiger-skins1 and other trophies of the chase everywhere about1 and the windows looking out on a pretty garden1 in the improvement and cultivation of which the owner was promising himself unfailing interest and occupation4 ,doctor ,brighton 7was not this affectionate sobriquet the invention of ,thackeray87 did much for the restoration of my health and strength2 and ,i was able to get to ,oxford before the end of summer term1 to spend a fortnight with kind ,monsignor ,kennard at his charming old house in ,st4 ,aldate's1 where ,i had a room so close to ,tom ,tower that the ,great ,bell of ,tom sounded as if it were tolling at my bedside6#aa ,in his pretty chapel 7of which the open roof was said to be a relic of ,oseney ,abbey71 ,i had the happiness1 on ,trinity ,sunday1 of celebrating ,mass for the first time for more than three months--a greatly-appreciated privilege4 #a ,a brown ,gregorian is so devotional4444 ,gregorians are obviously of a rich and sombre brown1 just as a ,salvation ,army hymn is a violent magenta4 #b ,dr4 ,selden ,talcott1 of the ,state ,asylum1 ,middleton1 ,new ,york2 according to whom early rising is the most prolific cause of madness4 ,a peremptory command to get up1 when one's sleep is as yet unfinished1 is a command which grinds the soul1 curdles the blood1 swells the spleen1 destroys all good intentions1 and disturbs all day the mental activities1 just as the tornado disturbs and levels with advancing ruin the forest of mighty pines4444 ,the free and lazy savage gets up when he feels ready1 and rarely or never becomes insane4 ,dr4 ,talcott quotes the percentage of lunacy among country people as compared with professional men4 ,the latter1 almost without exception1 get up comparatively late1 whereas our manual labourers all leave their beds long before they should4 ,the early morning hours1 when everything is still1 are peculiarly fitted for sleep2 and it is a gross violation of ,nature's laws to tear human brains out of the sound rest they enjoy at this time4 ,a weighty utterance1 no doubt3 still1 it is but fair to point out that among monks1 who perhaps1 as a class1 get up earlier than any men living1 the number of those whose good intentions are destroyed and mental activities disturbed1 and who finally become lunatics1 is really not alarmingly large4 #c ,dom ,paulinus ,gorwood1 who had been a choirboy at ,beverley ,minster1 and draughtsman in a great shipbuilding yard1 and had studied religious art in the famous ,beuron ,benedictine school at ,prague4 ,he had industry as well as talent2 and there were specimens of his handiwork in places as remote from one another as the ,highland ,catholic ,church at ,beauly1 and the college chapel at ,st4 ,augustine's ,abbey1 ,ramsgate4 #d ,this printer's feat somehow reminds me of the statement in an ,edinburgh paper that a certain eminent tenor1 who had had a bad fall alighting from the train1 was nevertheless able to appear that evening at the concert in several pieces4 ,but the funniest printer's slip which ,i remember in connection with trains was an announcement in a ,hampshire newspaper that ,the ,express ,engine was seriously indisposed1 and confined to bed4 ,the distinguished invalid was really the ,empress ,eugenie6 #e ,the word ,glenelg is1 of course1 a palindrome1 reading backwards and forwards alike4 #f ,randolph ,churchill1 ,joseph ,chamberlain1 and ,arthur ,balfour were only a few among the political magnates who had enjoyed my brother-in-law's hospitality in the fine old ,georgian mansion where ,lord ,hailes had entertained ,dr4 ,johnson4 ,newhailes was1 of course1 a very convenient jumping-off place for meetings in the ,scottish metropolis4 #g ,about as good1 perhaps1 as a certain ,english nine-hole course over which the secretary invited 7partly by way of advertising his club7 a famous golfer to play4 ,well1 what do you think of our course8 asked the secretary with some trepidation when the game was over4 ,oh well1 it might be worse1 was the great man's answer4 ,how do you mean exactly1 might be worse8 ,well1 said the eminent golfer1 there might be eighteen holes6 #h ,that of ,alister ,gordon1 of the ,gordon ,highlanders1 to a sister of ,charles ,edmonstoune-,cranstoun1 an old pupil of mine4 ,the bridegroom was a fine soldier1 became ,brigadier-,general in the ,european ,war1 and fell gallantly at ,ypres in ,july1 #aiag4 #i ,my well-informed friend told me1 if ,i remember right1 that statutes having been passed in more recent times1 limiting the grant of patents to actual new inventions1 scientific or otherwise1 nothing so amusing as the instances he quoted were to be found in their modern records4 #aj ,not more gruesome1 perhaps1 than an exhibition organized at ,stafford ,house1 in my young days about ,london1 by ,anne ,duchess of ,sutherland1 of wicker-work coffins4 ,they were spread about the garden1 where tea was likewise provided2 and a dapper and smiling young man 7,i suppose the patentee7 was in attendance to point out the advantages--sanitary1 economic1 and aesthetic--of his invention to the ,duchess's interested guests4 #aa ,i could not claim the concession 7,i believe unique7 granted to an old ,captain ,de ,moleyns1 who lived--and died--close to ,christ ,church1 and during whose last days the immemorial ringing of ,tom was suspended4 ,he was a man of very advanced age1 and used to tell how as a little boy he was rowed across ,plymouth ,harbour to see ,napoleon standing on the deck of the ,bellerophon6 #aac ,,chapter ,,vii #aijh ,i passed the closing days of the summer term of #aijh very pleasantly at ,oxford1 receiving many kindnesses from old friends1 mingled with expressions of regret that my official connection with the university was approaching its close4 ,i recall an interesting dinner-party at ,black ,hall1 the ,morrells' delightful old house in ,st4 ,giles's1 where my neighbour was ,miss ,rhoda ,broughton1 at that time resident near ,oxford4 ,we talked1 of course1 of her novels2 and the pleasant-faced1 grey-haired lady was amused to hear that my sisters were not allowed to read ,cometh ,up as a ,flower1 and ,red as a ,rose is ,she#a 7considered strong literary food in the early 'seventies71 until they came out4 ,mrs4 ,temple1 the archbishop's widow1 was also a fellow-guest3 she had taken a house in ,oxford1 close to dear ,keble2 but said that the noise and uproar emanating at night from the college of low living and high thinking was so great that she thought she would have to move4 ,a member of the lately-established #aad ,faculty1 or ,institute1 of ,forestry1 who was of our party1 told us some things not generally known about trees1 which ,i noted down4 ,the biggest tree known in the world was1 he said1 not in ,america 7what a relief671 but the great chestnut at the foot of ,mount ,etna1 called the ,chestnut of a ,hundred ,horses1 with a trunk over #bjj ft4 round1 and a hole through it through which two carriages can drive abreast4 ,the biggest orange-tree known was1 said our oracle1 in ,terre ,bonne1 ,louisiana3 #ej ft4 high1 #ae ft4 round at base1 and yielding #aj1jjj oranges annually4 ,finally1 the most valuable tree in existence was the plane-tree in ,wood ,street1 in the ,city1 occupying a space worth1 if rented1 ,l#cjj a year--a capital value of ,l#i1jjj or thereabouts4 ,all these facts ,i thought curious4 ,term over1 ,i stayed for a little time with a sister in ,kensington ,gore1 very handy for ,kensington ,gardens1 where ,i sat an hour or two every morning enjoying the fresh air and verdure of that most charming of ,london's lungs1 and surrounded by frolicking children1 including my small nephew4 ,one of his little playfellows1 a grandson of ,lord ,portman1 suddenly disappeared from the gay scene2 ,i inquired where he was1 and was told that he had gone for a rest-cure4 ,great heavens6 ,i said1 a child of three6--but why1 and where8--,oh1 was the reply1 ,master ,portman was taking too much notice of the busses and motor-cars and such-like1 and wouldn't go to sleep2 so he is taking a rest-cure in his nursery at the top of the house1 looking over the chimney-pots6 ,the modern child6 but then ,i do not of course profess to understand infants and their ways and needs4 #aae ,the ,white ,city1 with its ,irish village1 and a notable exhibition of ,french and ,english pictures1 was a great attraction this summer4 ,a kind cousin motored me thither once or twice2 and ,i met a little later at her house some pleasant ,italian cavalry officers1 smart in their ,eton blue uniforms1 who were going to jump at the horse-show at ,olympia4 ,i went1 at their urgent invitation1 to see their performance1 and was both interested and impressed4 ,as an exhibition of the art of show-jumping it seemed to me unsurpassable4 ,the horse answered the very slightest movement of the leg or body of its rider1 who1 as he rose to each leap1 was so perfectly pivoted on the insides of his knees that his balance remained absolutely unaffected4 ,the ,french competitors combined pace and dash with their excellent horsemanship2 and the finest horses were certainly those ridden by the ,english4 ,but the cool1 quiet1 scientific1 deliberate riding of the ,italians1 trained in the finest school in the world1 made all their rivals seem1 somehow1 a little rough and flurried and amateurish2 and they gained1 as they undoubtedly deserved1 the chief honours of the show4 ,the heat in ,july was great2 and ,i was so depressed1 visiting the great ,national ,rose ,show in the ,botanic ,gardens1 by the spectacle of #ajj1jjj once lovely blossoms hopelessly wilted and shrivelled1 that ,i fled from ,london to a brother's shady river-side home near ,shepperton4 ,it was reposeful under the big elms overhanging his garden1 to watch the boat-laden ,thames gliding past2 and another pleasure which ,i enjoyed whilst there was a quite admirable organ-recital given at a neighbouring church--,littleton1 ,i think it was4 ,the kind rector showed us round #aaf and gave us tea2 and the sight of the many tattered regimental colours 7,grenadier ,guards and others7 hanging on the church walls drew down upon him the following lines1 which ,i sent him next day in acknowledgment of his courtesy3-- ,,the ,,colours 7,hung in churches3 no longer #aijh taken into action47 ,that rent is ,talavera2 that patch is ,inkerman3 ,a hundred times in a hundred climes the battle round them ran4 ,but that is an ended chapter--they will not go to-day3 ,hang them above as a link of love1 where the people come to pray4 99 99 99 99 99 ,perhaps when all is quiet1 and the moon looks through the pane1 ,under that shred the splendid dead are marshalled once again1 ,and hear the guns in the desert1 and see the lines on the hill1 ,and follow the steel of the lance1 and feel that ,england is ,england still4 ,i found it very little cooler in ,yorkshire than in ,london2 but there were noble trees and welcome shade in the beautiful park of ,langdon1 near ,northallerton1 where ,i spent some ,july days1 in an atmosphere a thought too equine for my taste2 however1 my kind hosts 7the ,fifes7 were as fond of their flowers as of their horses1 and were busy adding wildernesses and rockeries and other informal beauty-spots to the formal gardens of their new home1 which they had recently bought from ,lord ,teignmouth4 ,i was driven over one day to see the ,hospital of ,st4 ,john of ,god at ,scorton1 where a hundred inmates1 all crippled or disabled1 were tended with admirable care and devotion by a religious brotherhood4 ,a local clergyman1 ,i remember1 dined with us that evening at ,langdon--a man whose mission1 or hobby1 seemed to be to collect and retail such odd and out-of-the-way facts as one finds in the #aag statistical column of ,tit-,bits4 ,in the course of the evening he informed us 7#a7 that a pound of thread spun by a silkworm will make a thread #fjj miles long2 7#b7 that there are in the skin of the average man #b1cjd1jjj pores2 and 7#c7 that about #cj1jjj snails are eaten every day in the city of ,paris4 ,what one feels about such facts1 dumped down on one promiscuously1 is that they do not lead anywhere1 or afford any kind of opening for rational conversation4 ,i had rather hoped to escape the burden of my ,oxford ,local ,examination work this summer2 but as it was apparently difficult to replace me1 ,i went up to ,dumfries for my usual week in ,july4 ,our ,convent-school being the only centre in the district for these examinations1 there were1 as usual1 several candidates from outside4 ,among them were two pairs of ,protestant sisters 7,wedderburn-,maxwells and ,goldie-,scotts71 whose mamma and governess respectively sat all day in the corridor outside the big schoolroom1 keeping watch and ward1 it was understood1 against the danger of their children being got at between the papers by the nuns--or possibly the ,benedictine examiner6--and influenced in the direction of ,popery4 ,our children were much amused by the way in which these little girls were whisked away1 during the intervals1 from any possible contact with their ,roman fellow-candidates2 but the little girls themselves looked somewhat disconsolate1 having perhaps had pleasant anticipations of games1 between examination-hours1 in the well-equipped playground of the school4 ,the kind abbot of ,fort ,augustus would not let me return to the monastery1 as ,i had expected to do when my ,dumfries work was over1 but #aah suggested instead some further rest 7for ,i was still far from robust7 with my own people in the west of ,scotland4 ,i spent a few pleasant days first at ,mountstuart1 and was rather amused on the first of ,august 7the end of the close season for small birds7 to see my young host sally forth--a sailor1 an architect1 and an artist in his wake--on a shooting-expedition1 with as much ceremony and preparation as if it had been the ,twelfth6#b ,we motored out after them1 and lunched on one of the highest points of the island2 drinking in1 as we ate our ,irish stew1 an entrancing prospect of the blue ,firth1 the long sinuous ,ayrshire coast1 and the lofty serrated peaks of ,arran4 ,from ,bute ,i went on to ,dunskey1 a place full to me always--even under its new1 altered1 and improved conditions--of a hundred happy memories4 ,there was an al fresco entertainment--tea1 music1 and dancing on the lawn--given by my niece to the tenants and their families one afternoon2 and ,i 7mindful of old days7 was happy to watch her and her boy1 the little heir1 welcoming their guests4 ,some of their names1 ,thorburns1 ,withers and ,mac,williams1 recalled the past2 and they greeted me with the friendly simple cordiality characteristic of ,galloway folk4 ,one of our house-party had just arrived 7by yacht7 from the ,isle of ,man1 where he had been staying for some weeks4 ,he had stories of the quaint customs of the ,men of ,man1 and wrote down for me the oath administered in their courts4 #aai ,the closing simile is delightfully unconventional3-- ,by this book1 and by the holy contents thereof1 and by the wonderful works that ,god has miraculously wrought in heaven above and in the earth beneath in six days and seven nights1 ,i do swear that ,i will1 without respect of favour or friendship1 love or gain1 consanguinity or affinity1 execute the laws of this isle1 and between party and party as indifferently as the herring's backbone doth lie in the middle of the fish4 ,at ,blairquhan ,i found a large party assembling for ,august #ab3 naval cronies of my sailor brother 7including the captain of ,h4,m4,s4 ,britannia71 the master of the ,whaddon ,chase ,hunt1 ,selby ,lowndes1 with his wife and daughter1 and other pleasant people4 ,shooting1 dancing1 bridge and golf filled up their days agreeably enough4 ,i essayed the last-named sport1 but was mortified to find myself still as weak as a kitten4 ,the weather was glorious1 but my brother complained that the long drought had left not a fruit in the garden2 whereupon ,i suggested the substitute mentioned by ,captain ,topham in his ,letters from ,edinburgh a century and a half ago3-- ,the little variety of fruit which this climate brings to perfection is the cause that the inhabitants set anything on their tables1 after dinner1 that has the appearance of it2 and ,i have often observed at the houses of principal people a dish of small turnips1 which they call neeps1 introduced in the dessert1 and ate with as much avidity as if they had been fruit of the first perfection4 ,the perfect summer weather accompanied me north to ,beaufort1 which was doubly fortunate1 as a great party was gathered there for a gigantic bazaar1 organized by one of the daughters of the house to raise funds for a county sanatorium for consumption1 in which she was greatly interested4 ,the difficulty of attracting men to a show of the kind1 #abj especially in the shooting season1 was cleverly met by including among the attractions a novel and unique exhibition of stags' heads1 lent from all the great ,highland forests4 ,the interest of this drew sportsmen from far and near to ,beaufort1 where a notable company was assembled1 including the whole ,lovat family1 most of the ,chiefs of clans and their wives1 and1 last not least1 ,ranguia1 a genuine chieftain from ,new ,zealand1 clad in what was understood to be his native dress1 and gifted with an astonishing voice 7tenore robustissimo71 in which he sang ,maori songs of love and war in the great gallery at intervals during the two days of the bazaar4 ,the most charming of ,british ,duchesses opened the proceedings with a speech of enticing eloquence3 sales were brisk1 the weather perfect1 and the attendance enormous2 and the profits1 if ,i remember right1 were something like ,l#d1jjj1 so that the affair was altogether a success4 ,we recreated ourselves1 after these fatiguing days1 by a pleasant motor drive to ,oromarty1 to see the splendid fleet 7the ,fifth ,cruiser ,squadron 7and some battleships of the ,home ,fleet7 mustered in the ,firth4 ,we went all over the ,dreadnought1 and drank tea on ,kelburn's ship1 the ,cochrane1 burst a tyre on our way home and took refuge at ,balnagowan1 where ,lady ,ross gave us dinner and sang to us perfectly delightfully3 a full and interesting day4 ,ampleforth ,abbey having now ,masters of ,arts of its own qualified to take over the ,mastership of its ,oxford ,hall1 ,i took the occasion of my enforced temporary retirement to resign the office which ,i had held for nearly ten years4 ,the inevitable regrets were tempered by the kind tributes ,i received #aba both from ,ampleforth and from the ,vice-chancellor of the ,university2 and also by my friend ,mgr4 ,kennard's urgent invitation 7which ,i was authorized to accept7 that ,i should return to ,oxford for a time as his guest and assistant-chaplain4 ,this settled1 ,i went south to visit the ,loudouns at ,loudoun ,castle1 cheerfully repainted and decorated in honour of the arrival of the family pictures1 an accession to ,loudoun since his brother ,paulyn ,hastings' death4 ,at ,woodburn1 whither ,i went from ,loudoun1 ,i found ,philip ,kerr at home from ,johannesburg 7where he was1 ,i think1 ,secretary to the ,high ,commissioner7--looking as young as ever1 the cynosure of his adoring family and of a circle of admiring friends1 one or two of whom 7,i think old schoolfellows at ,edgbaston7 were staying at ,woodburn4 ,the talk turned1 as so often in this house1 on ,newman and the ,oratory2 and ,lord ,ralph ,kerr read a striking passage written by ,coventry ,patmore#c soon after the great ,cardinal's death3-- ,the steam-hammer of that intellect which could be so delicately adjusted to its task as to be capable of either crushing a ,hume or cracking a ,kingsley is no longer at work3 that tongue which had the weight of a hatchet and the edge of a razor is silent4 ,i recalled a characteristic sentence or two 7half jest1 half earnest71 from one of ,bishop ,samuel ,wilberforce's letters to ,mrs4 ,sarjent3-- ,newman was at ,ryder's1 but ,i thought it best not to see him4 ,i heard that unmistakable voice like a volcano's roar1 tamed into the softness of the flute-stop1 and got a glimpse 7may ,i say it to you87 of the serpentine form through an open door--the ,father ,superior6 #abb ,in lighter vein ,philip told us some odd ,johannesburg stories4 ,one was of a man who had arrived there some years before with absolutely no assets except a tin of condensed milk and a needle4 ,he spread a report that smallpox was on its way through the country1 gave out that he was a surgeon1 and vaccinated the entire community with his needle and condensed milk1 at #es4 a head6 ,from this beginning he rose to be a wealthy capitalist1 with the monopoly of selling liquor within the precincts of the ,johannesburg ,stock ,exchange4 ,woodburn was admirably handy for the ,edinburgh libraries1 in which ,i put in several days' work 7much belated during my illness7 for the ,encyclopaedia4 ,september ,i spent happily at ,st4 ,andrews1 where my friend and host ,george ,angus1 though now a good deal of an invalid1 was as kind and pleasant as ever4 ,we had talks on heraldry1 a favourite subject with us both2 and ,i remember his rubbing his hands with delight on reading 7on the authority of ,juliana ,berners1 prioress of ,sopewell71 that the four ,evangelists were gentlemen come by the right line of that worthy conqueror ,judas ,maccabaeus2 and also that the ,four ,latin ,doctors1 ,jerome1 ,ambrose1 ,augustine1 and ,gregory1 were gentlemen of blood and coat-armour4#d ,i copied from one of his early heraldic books the arms anciently assigned to3-- ,adam 7before the ,fall7--a shield gules1 whereon a shield argent borne on an escutcheon of pretence arms of ,eve1 she being an heiress4 ,do4 7after the ,fall7--paly tranche1 divided every way1 and tinctured of every colour4 #abc ,joseph--chequy1 sable and argent4 ,david--argent a harp or4 ,gideon--sable1 a fleece argent1 a chief azure gutte d'eau4 ,samson--gules1 a lion couchant or1 within an orle argent1 seme of bees sable4 ,i saw something at ,st4 ,andrews of another old acquaintance1 ,jock ,dalrymple1 now ,stair1 who had some little time before succeeded his father 7the kind old friend of my youth71 and had grown grey1 portly1 and rather solemn since coming into his kingdom4 ,he was ,captain of the ,royal and ,ancient this year2 and although he boasted of hating politics1 and would not trouble to vote in ,parliament on the most vital ,imperial question1 would sit for hours in the chair at a club meeting1 discussing the minutiae of golfing rules with a zest and patience that never failed4 ,men are curiously made6 ,i went1 while at ,st4 ,andrews1 to spend a weekend with the ,fairlies at their neighbouring castle of ,myres 7set in the most enchanting old ,scottish garden71 and said mass in a billiard-room converted by my friend into a decorous chapel1 just as had been done by ,bishop ,hedley in his episcopal villa near ,cardiff4 ,i noticed with interest the mace sculptured on one of the angular turrets4 ,thereby hung a tale--and a grievance2 and my host told me how the presentation of a macership in the ,court of ,session went with the ownership of ,myres1 i4e4 of the castle1 as he maintained4 ,but though he had bought the castle1 my ,lord ,bute had bought the estate 7marching with his lands of ,falkland72 and his contention was that the estate1 not the castle1 carried with it the macership4#e ,hinc illae lacrymae4 #abd ,i left ,st4 ,andrews early on a bright autumn morning1 my kind old friend1 who had insisted on getting up to serve my mass1 waving me good-bye under his hospitable porch--a last good-bye it proved to be1 for ,i never saw him again4#f ,before going south ,i spent a few days at ,aberdeen1 having some business with our good bishop4 ,i stayed with ,malcolm ,hay of ,seaton 7one of my very few ,catholic relations7 at his pretty old place on ,donside4 ,from the windows one looked across the river1 and up a wooded brae1 to the venerable towers of ,st4 ,machar's ,cathedral4 ,malcolm motored me one day to ,blairs ,college2 ,i had not before seen the new buildings and church of our ,scottish seminary1 quite an imposing pile as viewed from the much-frequented ,deeside road4 ,we found the ,archbishop of ,st4 ,andrews 7,mgr4 ,smith7 at tea with the ,rector and his professorial staff1 who were all most kind and civil4 ,i heard here of the elevation of the eminent advocate1 ,campbell of ,skerrington1 to the ,scottish ,bench--the first ,catholic ,lord of ,session for generations1 if not centuries4 ,i was due in ,oxford before the opening of the autumn term1 in view of my prospective flitting from our ,benedictine ,hall2 but ,i first fulfilled a long #abe overdue engagement to pay a visit to some ,french friends 7the ,marquis de ,franquetot and his wife7 in ,picardy4 ,their pretty chateau1 embowered in big chestnut-trees1 was some ten miles from ,boulogne1 and we drove thither on ,sunday to high mass at ,st4 ,nicholas-in-the-,market1 as my host wanted me to hear the ,french ,bishops' joint pastoral 7the first they had been permitted to issue for a great number of years7 on ,christian education4 ,m4 de ,franquetot said it had been prepared under the roof of my old friend ,lady ,sophia ,palmer1 ,comtesse de ,franqueville1 who1 with her excellent husband1 had entertained the whole hierarchy for a week at their beautiful hotel in the ,bois de ,boulogne4 ,the congregation at ,st4 ,nicholas was very large and devout1 comprising1 as ,i was pleased to observe1#g many men of all ranks and ages2 and the long pastoral1 addressed aux peres et meres de famille1 and interspersed with admirable comments from the good cure1 was listened to with close attention1 and approval1 which the peres de famille occasionally showed by thumping the floor with sticks or umbrellas1 and muttering--not always sotto voce--,tres bien dit1--ils ont bien raison1 and so on4 ,i was very glad to have been present4 ,boulogne seemed full of ,british trippers2 and ,i was amused1 as we drove along the sea-front1 to see the number of unmistakably ,french eating-houses which labelled themselves by such enticing titles as the ,royal ,english ,chop #abf ,house and the ,margate ,bar4 ,some1 more accommodating still1 announced in their windows that ,messrs4 the ,britannic tourists who arrive furnished with their own provisions may eat them here gratuitously4 ,could the ,entente go further8 ,i had hardly seen the pleasant town since ,i had lived for a year in its environs with my family as a little boy2 and the narrow bustling streets looked to me much as they used to under the ,empire1 when my father would point out to us the gallant ,chasseurs d',afrique swaggering along--the finest soldiers in the world1 sir--fought beside us in the ,crimea1--six short years before the debacle of #ahgj4 ,we passed through ,pont-de-,brique1 and asked for the ,chateau ,neuf1 the big rambling house in an unkempt garden which had been our home2 but no one could point it out to us4 ,my ,french visit was brought to an agreeable close by a trip across the ,channel 7,why do you call it the ,english ,channel1 you others8 my hostess asked me2 to us it is only ,la ,manche67 in a beautiful schooner yacht belonging to a friend of the de ,franquetots4 ,we scudded along the ,english coast in bright sunshine1 before a strong south-easterly breeze1 finally landing at ,southampton1 whence ,i made my way to ,kneller ,court1 which ,i found as friendly and hospitable as ever3 ,admiral ,sir ,percy and ,lady ,scott at luncheon with my kind sister-in-law1 and subalterns and sub-lieutenants dropping in later for tennis and tea4 ,my brother drove me up to ,fort ,nelson1 and showed me his #fj-pounders and the interior of the fort1 one of the chain erected at enormous cost by ,palmerston fifty years before1 and now absolutely useless except as barracks4 #abg ,next day ,i escorted my pretty niece by dogcart1 train and tram to ,hilsea1 to see the ,gunners' sports--gun-driving1 tent-pegging1 wrestling on horseback1 and so forth4 ,it was my fifty-fifth birthday1 and my health was pledged at dinner1 with musical honours1 by the merry party of relatives and friends4 ,on ,october #a ,i reached ,oxford1 superintended the transport of my effects from ,beaumont ,street 7where my successor1 ,dom ,anselm ,parker1 was already installed as ,master of our ,hall7 to ,st4 ,aldate's1 and received a kind welcome there from my host and new chief1 ,mgr4 ,kennard4 ,he was suffering from the peculiar constitutional disturbance--,i believe a form of suppressed gout 7,king ,edward was in his last years a victim to it7 which keeps people always on the move2 and this chronic restlessness took him away so constantly from ,oxford that a great deal of his pastoral work--the spiritual superintendence of fifty or sixty ,catholic undergraduates1 scattered all over the university1 at once devolved to great extent on me4 ,the experiment of sending ,catholic boys to ,oxford 7and ,cambridge7 had by this time passed out of the experimental stage1 and had on the whole justified the anticipations of those to whose initiative it had been due4 ,there were1 of course1 a few failures and a few wastrels among our small contingent of undergraduates2 but on the whole they were a good lot of young fellows1 who did credit to the various ,catholic schools where they had been trained4 ,and their personal kindness to me was such that it was a real pleasure to find oneself in fairly intimate relations with them1 and to be of any service to them that one could4 #abh ,the good ,monsignore hardly ever returned from his many absences without bringing a friend or two with him2 and his great recreation at this time was driving his guests about in a fine motor 7a new toy7 which he had lately bought from his nephew ,fritz ,ponsonby1 the ,king's equerry4 ,fritz and his charming wife stayed with us this autumn1 as did also our host's brother1 ,colonel ,hegan ,kennard1 who was considerably the older1 but much the more vigorous and energetic of the two4#h ,he attended service on ,sunday at the ,evangelical church close by1 and came back indignant4 ,by ,george1 sir1 ,i never saw anything so slovenly and slipshod in my life2 disgraceful1 sir1 positively disgraceful6 ,i took him to hear ,mrs4 ,garrett-,fawcett speak at a woman-suffrage debate at the ,union--a most plausible lady1 but we voted against her by a large majority4 ,i found the motor an agreeable means of visiting various places of interest in the neighbourhood--,dorchester ,abbey1 an epitome of architecture from ,early ,norman to ,late ,perpendicular1 but the interior spoilt by the bad taste of the ,ritualistic fittings2 the grand old ,augustinian minster of ,burford2 and ,cuddesdon1 a miniature cathedral1 with its western porch and massive central tower4 ,it was over this porch that the ladies of ,cuddesdon1 in years gone by1 wishing to do honour on some feast-day to their beloved diocesan ,samuel ,wilberforce1 and not less beloved ,archdeacon ,alfred ,pott1 displayed their joint initials wrought in evergreens4 ,s4,o4,a4,p41 read #abi the ,bishop as he paused before the western gable4 ,surely an enemy hath done this1 he sorrowfully muttered1 and proceeded on his way4 ,an excursion or two from ,oxford ,i remember this autumn3 one to ,downside1 where it was always a happiness to go and spend a church-festival with my ,benedictine brethren2 another to ,eton1 where ,i gazed with dismay on the new school-hall with its unsightly dome1 and wondered if this was really the best the ,committee of ,taste could achieve by way of ,south ,african ,war ,memorial4#i ,i met afterwards quite a contingent of ,scotsmen 7,arthur ,hay1 the ,duke of ,roxburghe's brother1 etc47 at luncheon with the ,irish ,guards at ,victoria ,barracks1 where ,i used to breakfast of a ,sunday morning--a dissipation forbidden1 ,i believe1 to modern ,etonians--with an uncle in the ,scots ,fusilier ,guards1 in my own school days4 ,i went to ,london that evening to dine with1 and read afterwards a paper on ,jerusalem of ,to-day to1 the ,guild of ,,ss4 ,gregory and ,luke1 my host being ,sir ,john ,knill1 ,sheriff of ,london1 who was two years later to occupy the civic chair1 as his excellent father had done before him4 ,on another evening ,i attended our ,westminster ,dining-club1 to hear ,fr4 ,r4 ,h4 ,benson read us an essay on ,the ,value of ,fiction--interesting1 as coming from a successful novelist1 and of course brilliant2 but ,i agreed with only about half of it4 ,ninian ,crichton ,stuart had engaged me to go and #acj support him at the ,st4 ,andrew's ,day banquet of the ,caledonian ,society of ,cardiff1 the suffrages of which city he was at that time wooing as ,conservative candidate1 much assisted by his clever and charming wife4 ,i stayed with them at their pretty home near ,llandaff1 and we motored in to the patriotic banquet1 which began at #f4cj and lasted nearly five hours6 ,i proposed the principal toast1 and had of course no difficulty in showing 7as one of the newspaper reports remarked7 that all the chief posts in the ,empire--political1 ecclesiastical1 legal and administrative1 were1 with the most insignificant exceptions1 held by ,scotsmen4 ,bagpipes1 of course1 skirled and whisky flowed freely2 and the national enthusiasm reached its height when the haggis was borne round the hall in procession1 carried by the white-clad chef and preceded by the pipe-major1 playing his best and loudest in honour of the chief of pudding race4 ,i left ,llandaff next morning1 ,ringan1 ,lady ,ninian's pretty baby1 crowing good-bye to me from his mother's arms1#aj and spent an hour or two in ,cardiff with ,bishop ,hedley1 who expressed his hope that ,i would help ,kennard at ,oxford as long as ,i could1 and would ultimately succeed him as chaplain4 ,we visited together the new and splendid town-hall1 the finest municipal building ,i had ever seen4 ,the ,oxford term ended in the following week1 #aca and ,i made my way north to ,fort ,augustus1 where ,i found discussion in progress as whether we should or should not sell our house and estate of ,ardachie1 for which we had several good offers4 ,i said yes2 for the place1 though not without its attractions1 had been altogether more of a burden than a profit to us for a good many years4#aa ,whilst at ,fort ,augustus1 ,i addressed1 by desire of the community1 letters to the ,abbot-,primate in ,rome1 as well as to our own bishop1 urging1 for many weighty reasons1 the reincorporation of our abbey into the ,english ,benedictine ,congregation1 from which it had been separated for just twenty-six years4 #a ,parodied in ,punch 7,i think by that inveterate punster the then editor1 ,f4 ,c4 ,burnand71 under the titles of ,goeth ,down as an ,oyster and ,red in the ,nose is ,she4 ,it is the ,scottish hero of one of these romances1 ,i forget which 7,i mean1 of course1 the original1 not the parody71 who shows his emotion at a critical moment by cramming half a yard of yellow beard into his mouth6 #b ,the bag consisted of an assortment of miscellaneous fowl4 ,bute was at this period of his career something of the typical ,briton whose idea of happiness1 according to some ,french observer1 is more or less summed up in the formula3 ,my friends1 it is a fine day3 let us go out and kill something6 #c ,in the preface to ,rod1 ,root1 and ,flower4 ,the passage was quite new to me4 #d ,from the ,boke of ,st4 ,albans 7#adhf74 #e ,an antique privilege of the kind would appeal irresistibly to ,bute--tenaci propositi viro2 he stuck to his guns1 not only claiming the right of presentation1 but actually exercising it at the next vacancy4 ,i am not qualified to pronounce on the vexed question2 but my experience is that in such matters the big man usually gets his way1 and the smaller has to go to the wall4 ,what was settled after ,bute's death ,i know not4 ,anyhow--the last ,lord of ,falkland lies among the lilies in a war cemetery in ,france2 and the memorial chapel in his park1 near by the ,house of ,falkland1 was designed by the present laird of ,myres4 #f ,george ,angus1 for nearly a quarter of a century resident priest at ,st4 ,andrews1 died there on ,st4 ,patrick's ,day 7,march #ag71 #aiji4 #g ,less pleasing was it to notice the outside walls and very doors of the old church plastered all over with flaring affiches of music-hall performances1 pictures of ballet-dancers1 etc4 ,cette canaille de ,republique6 murmured in my ear1 as we drove off1 my friend and host1 whose sympathies were entirely with the ancien regime4 #h ,more of a man1 in short4 ,dear old ,charlie1 he said to me1 was good at games when he was at ,harrow1 and a capital runner4 ,all the same1 he was always a bit of an old woman1 and always will be6 #i ,i wrote1 ,i fear1 rather heatedly to good old ,ainger 7,secretary of the ,war ,fund71 on what seemed to me the painful incongruity of the building with its surroundings4 ,many people1 ,i believe1 he replied with admirable restraint1 feel quite as you do on this matter2 but no one has expressed himself quite so strongly6 #aj ,poor little ,ringan6 7his name was the ancient pet form of ,ninian1 the saint of ,galloway74 ,on the election-day1 a year or so afterwards1 the burgesses of ,cardiff smiled to see him driving through the streets in a motor from which flew a bannerette recommending them to ,vote for ,daddy6 ,there was universal regret1 a few days later1 at the sad news that the little electioneerer had succumbed to a chill caught on the occasion of his first public appearance1 when less than two years old4 ,see post4 page #agf4 #aa ,the actual tenant1 ,colonel ,campbell1 whose wife was a ,catholic1 eventually bought the property4 #acb ,,chapter ,,viii #aijh-aiji ,i spent the ,christmas of #aijh1 as usual1 very pleasantly at ,beaufort4 ,for the first time for many years the family was absolutely au complet3 the services of the season in the beautiful chapel were well attended2 and ,i sympathized with the happiness of my kind hostess1 as she knelt at the altar at midnight mass surrounded by all her children1 without exception4 ,there were grandchildren1 too1 of all ages1 who amused themselves vastly in spite of appalling weather1 rain1 snow1 frost1 thaw1 and gales1 following one another in rapid and unwelcome succession4 ,the children acted a pretty and touching miracle-play1 the hand-painted programme whereof still adorns my scrap-book2 and there were seasonable revels of various kinds4 ,at ,new ,year somebody announced that #aiji was to be a great year of anniversaries1 #ahji having been annus mirabilis4 ,we remembered 7with difficulty7 eight celebrities born that year--,mendelssohn1 ,e4 ,barrett ,browning1 ,darwin1 ,tennyson1 ,o4 ,wendell ,holmes1 ,lord ,houghton1 ,w4 ,e4 ,gladstone1 and ,abraham ,lincoln1 but could think of no others4 ,this reminded some one else that ,i4 ,disraeli called thirty-seven the fatal age of genius1 four great men 7among others7 who died at that age having been ,raphael1 ,mozart1 #acc ,byron and ,burns4 ,i wound up with a statement new1 ,i think1 to everybody1 viz41 that ,saturday was the fatal day of the week to the ,english ,royal ,family 7,hanoverian ,line74 ,i have not followed the matter down to quite recent times2 but it is undoubtedly singular that ,william ,,iii41 ,queen ,anne1 ,george ,i41 ,,ii41 ,,iii41 and ,,iv41 the ,duchess of ,kent1 the ,prince ,consort1 and ,princess ,alice all died on a ,saturday4 ,i stayed at ,loudoun ,castle on my way south1 finding there a big party of young men and maidens--,howards of ,glossop1 ,hastings'1 ,bellasis'1 ,beauclercs1 and ,bethells1 gathered for an ,eglinton ,hunt ,ball 7recalling the days of my youth74 ,nearly all were ,catholics1 so ,i had quite a congregation in the little chapel1 redecorated 7with the rest of the castle7 since my previous visit4 ,i was back in ,oxford before the middle of ,january for the ,lent term1 to me always a more interesting period than the golden weeks of summer1 when everybody's heads seemed to be full of nothing but amusement and sport4 ,our ,sunday conferences were given this term by ,father ,kenelm ,vaughan 7the late ,cardinal's missionary brother71 who used to arrive for the week-ends with no luggage save a little well-worn ,bible hanging from the girdle of his cassock and 7possibly7 a toothbrush in his pocket4 ,if there ever was a man who lived entirely in a better country1 and that an heavenly1 it was ,kenelm4 ,like all the ,vaughans1 he was of striking appearance2 and his personality1 as well as his appealing eloquence1 made a great impression on his young hearers1 although his unconventional sayings and doings had an occasionally disconcerting effect on our good host and his guests1 which used to remind me of #acd ,jerome's ,man in the ,third ,floor ,back4 ,wilfrid ,ward was with us for a day or two1 with a great flow of conversation1 chiefly about himself4 ,he read an interesting paper to our ,newman ,society on ,the ,writing of the ,apologia--anticipatory gleanings1 of course 7if the phrase is permissible71 of his great forthcoming biography1 and including several of the ,cardinal's unpublished letters4 ,there was a record meeting of the ,society a little later1 to hear ,w4 ,h4 ,mallock on 7or down on7 ,socialism4 ,many dons of note were present1 and there was a brisk debate1 ,w4 ,h4 ,m4 holding his own very well4 ,at supper afterwards ,i ventured to remind him of two sentences of his 7,i forget from which of his writings7 which had given me much pleasure3-- ,the ,catholic ,church is the ,columbus of modern society1 who will guide us eventually to the new moral continent which other explorers are trying in vain to reach4 ,an aristocracy is the best of all possible orders1 in the worst of all possible worlds4 ,our good ,monsignore was nominally at home during these weeks1 but in a restless and excitable state4 ,he would exhaust himself by feverish energy at golf for a day or two1 then rush off in his motor1 for change1 with valet and chauffeur1 and return more tired than he had gone away4 ,he attended one evening a big golfing-dinner at the ,master of ,university's3 dined well 7according to his own account71 drank hock1 old port1 and ,benedictine1 came home and rolled about all night in indescribable agony4 ,most of his duties he delegated to me1 including1 sometimes1 the task of interviewing bewildered ,catholic parents1 to whom ,oxford university life was an absolute terra incognita1 and who #ace were puzzled or anxious about their sons' doings4 ,poor ,lady ,e---- ,b----6 ,i remember still the dismay with which she came to tell me how her boy had made friends in college with an ,egyptian ,moslem 7an unbaptized heathen ,turk1 was her description of him71 and was bent on taking digs 7lodgings7 with him in the following term4 ,i felt sympathy with the ,catholic mother in her instinctive dislike to this prospect2 but ,i felt none with the indignation of another parent 7a distinguished diplomatist7 at the refusal of one of the most sought-after colleges to admit his son4 ,the fact was1 as ,i had1 after due inquiry1 to explain tactfully to the aggrieved parent1 that the youth 7a pupil of one of our smaller ,catholic schools7 gave himself1 at the preliminary interview with the college authorities1 such confounded airs 7as one of the dons expressed it7 that they would have nothing to say to him4 ,probably the poor lad's airs were only one of the many forms in which extreme shyness manifests itself2 anyhow it is fair to add that this was an exceptional case1 and that our ,catholic freshmen1 as a whole1 made a favourable impression by their good manners and modesty of demeanour4 ,one ,head1 who had no sympathy at all with the ,catholic religion1 told me that so pleased was he with the ,catholic contingent in his college1 that he would willingly admit as many more as ,i cared to recommend to him4 ,of events of general interest this spring1 ,i recall a fascinating lecture by ,sven ,hedin on his ,tibetan travels4 ,the eminent explorer had a bumper audience and a great reception1 and was given an honorary degree by ,convocation next day4 ,kennard and ,i agreed in resenting his arrogant and bumptious #acf manner2 and the tone of some of his remarks might have prepared us for the outburst of anti-,english fanaticism for which he made himself notorious a few years later4 ,there was a big gathering at the ,schools one evening in celebration of the centenary of ,darwin4 ,the oratorical tributes and panegyrics were1 as usual1 so lengthy as to become wearisome2 but an interesting feature was the presence of three of ,darwin's sons1 of whom one 7,sir ,george7 gave us some pleasant personal details and reminiscences of his distinguished father4 ,his affectionate loyalty to a parent's memory one can sympathize with and understand2 but ,i confess that1 reading the pulpit references to the centenary that week1 ,i was puzzled to comprehend how ,christian ministers could let themselves go in indiscriminating panegyric of a man of whom ,i hope it is not uncharitable1 as it is certainly not untrue1 to say that he was1 if any man ever was1 a self-confessed unbeliever in revelation and in ,christ4#a ,the utterances on such an occasion of a distinguished occupant of the university pulpit a generation earlier#b would certainly have been pitched in a different key2 and so would those of my old friend ,dr4 ,frederick ,george ,lee1 whose summary of the logical result of ,darwin's teaching was-- ,the ,incarnation is but a dream1 the ,supernatural a delusion4 ,our only duties are to feed and to breed4 ,let us eat and drink1 for to-morrow we die4 ,i received into the ,church this term an undergraduate of one of the smaller colleges1 who was reading #acg for natural science honours and rowed in his college boat2 but he had evidently had time for reading and reflection as well1 and had thought the whole matter out so carefully that ,i had little left to do4 ,in order to keep him back at the eleventh hour1 his tutor 7an ,anglican divine of some repute7 kept propounding to him historical difficulties such as ,how was it that ,henry of ,navarre was allowed by the ,pope to have two wives at once8 and so on4 ,my young friend used to bring me these nuts to crack1 and we had a good deal of fun over them4 ,it was proposed1 and decided1 before ,easter that ,oxford should send a representative to ,louvain in the summer1 to take part in the jubilee celebrations of the ,catholic ,university4 ,cambridge1 ,london1 ,glasgow1 ,aberdeen1 and1 ,i believe1 other universities1 had all elected1 as a compliment to ,louvain1 to send a ,catholic representative on this occasion2 and the senior proctor told me that my name had been mentioned before the ,council in this connection4 ,oxford1 however1 declined to associate itself with the other universities in this graceful act of courtesy--one which1 as ,i heard privately from ,louvain1 was very highly appreciated there4 ,a clergyman of the ,church of ,england was nominated as the ,oxford representative2 and to a letter of remonstrance which 7after consulting one or two of our resident masters7 ,i sent to the ,vice-chancellor1 he replied by a courteously-worded note of explanation--which explained nothing4 ,early in ,march ,i paid an interesting little visit to ,douai ,abbey1 in the beautiful wooded country about ,pangbourne1 and lectured to the community and their eighty pupils on ,jerusalem4 ,i had a warmly #ach ,benedictine welcome here1 and was glad to see additions being made to the buildings of the former diocesan college of ,portsmouth1 which the bishop had made over to the monks when they were expelled from their beloved home at ,douai1 by decree of the ,french ,government dated ,april #c1 #aijc4 ,term over1 ,i went up to ,yorkshire to spend ,st4 ,benedict's festival with my brethren at ,ampleforth1 where ,i found myself deputed that evening to present the football colours in the college4 ,they were scarlet and black2 but while reminding the young players that those were the traditional colours of ,mephistopheles1 ,i disclaimed any intention of suggesting a common origin4 ,my stay here was saddened by the rather unexpected news of the death of my dear old friend ,george ,angus of ,st4 ,andrews4 ,he had long been the only ,catholic member of his ,oxford ,hall2 and exactly a week before his death ,i had had1 by a consoling coincidence1 the pleasure of reconciling to the ,catholic ,church an undergraduate of the same venerable foundation4 ,i stayed a night in ,london1 on my way to ,arundel1 to hear ,lord ,hugh ,cecil discourse at our ,westminster ,dining-club1 with his usual perfervid rhetoric1 on ,some ,diseases of the ,house of ,commons4 ,two of our ,university ,members1 ,sir ,william ,anson and ,professor ,butcher1 joined in the interesting subsequent discussion4 ,a friend next morning insisted on carrying me off to ,selfridge's1 the huge new emporium in ,oxford ,street1 and showing me all over it4 ,he amused me by a story of how there1 or in some other ,brobdingnagian ,london store1 the electric light suddenly went out1 just at the busiest hour of the evening4 ,there they were--thousands of #aci 'em1 the narrator of the incident is supposed to have said1 pinching the goods right and left--'aving the time of their lives1 with not a light in the 'ole place2 and there was ,i--just my blooming luck--where do you think8 in the grand piano department6 ,i went for the week-end to ,rickmansworth1 to stay with ,lady ,encombe1 who had a little party for the laying of the foundation-stone of the new church of the ,assumptionists4 ,the ,bishop of ,kimberley 7,s4,a47 gave a nice address4 ,i preached next day 7,sunday7 in the old church1 and in the evening we all listened to a quaint ,franco-,english sermonette from good ,fr4 ,julian1 the superior4 ,monday was ,jack ,encombe's tenth birthday3 ,i gave him ,jorrocks1 with coloured plates1 which delighted him2 saw him and his brother start hunting on their ponies 7their mother following them awheel72 and then left for ,arundel1 where ,i was very glad to find myself 7though not yet fully robust7 able to take my share in the solemn ,easter services4 ,i found the castle grounds at length redd up and in perfect order2 the hordes of workmen vanished1 and lawns and terraces and shrubberies and flower-beds twinkling in the ,april sunshine4 ,it was a joy to see the beautiful home of the ,howards looking itself again after all these years of reconstruction and upheaval4 ,the ,duke had told me that he was determined to get the place shipshape within a year of his second marriage1 or 7like ,trelawny7 know the reason why6 and he had been as good as his word4 ,i heard with pleasure in ,easter week that my nephew had got his first in moderations at ,balliol2 and with sorrow of the death of my kind old friend ,bishop #adj ,wilkinson1 successor of ,st4 ,cuthbert as ,bishop of ,hexham1 and a shining example of loyalty and devotion to his ,church and his country4 ,i lunched in ,london1 on my way to ,oxford1 with ,lady ,maple1 at ,clarence ,house1 the pretty residence in ,regent's ,park left to her by ,sir ,blundell ,maple4 ,telephoning previously to ,clarence ,house to inquire the luncheon-hour1 ,i was informed in haughty tones that their ,royal ',ighnesses were in ,egypt1 and that nothing was known about any luncheon6 ,it turned out that ,i was in communication with the other ,clarence ,house1 the ,st4 ,james's residence of the ,duke of ,connaught4 ,my first duty1 on returning to ,oxford1 was to marry my cousin ,john ,simeon1#c until recently an undergraduate of the ,house1 to ,miss ,adelaide ,holmes a ,court4 ,my little sermon at the ,jesuit church 7which was almost filled with the wedding guests7 was not intended to be otherwise than cheerful1 and ,i was surprised in the course of it to observe the unusual phenomenon of the bridegroom's father dissolved in tears6 ,the happy couple motored off later to ,north ,wales in a downpour of rain1 which 7,i heard7 never once stopped during their brief honeymoon4 ,father ,maturin 7whose repute as an orator had been long established in ,oxford7 was giving our weekly conferences this term1 and ,i was greatly struck with them--packed close with thought and luminous argument1 and scintillating besides with #ada genuine eloquence4 ,i had heard many of his pulpit orations1 but ,i thought this series of lectures the finest thing he had ever done1 though perhaps slightly over the heads of his undergraduate auditors4 ,i was myself fully occupied at this time with a long article 7biographical and critical7 on ,st4 ,gregory ,nazianzene1#d which1 by a happy coincidence1 ,i completed on ,may #i1 the feast-day of that great saint and doctor4 ,i took two days off for a visit to ,cambridge 7my first for fourteen years7 in connection with the ,fisher ,society dinner1 at which ,i represented ,oxford and the ,newman4 ,some distinguished guests--a ,cardinal1 a judge1 an author1 and a statesman--failed us at the last moment2 but the gathering was cheery and successful and the after-dinner oratory much less wearisome than usual4 ,i visited1 of course1 while at ,cambridge1 the really noble ,catholic church of ,our ,lady--finer1 ,i thought 7as ,i had thought before71 and more impressive outside than in4 ,i remembered that the great church of ,st4 ,john at ,norwich had given me precisely the contrary impression4 ,i was always bidden to 7and pleased1 when ,i could to attend7 the numerous weddings of my youthful relatives4 ,one1 in these early summer days1 was that of my pretty cousin1 ,eleanor ,bowlby1 to a ,dorrien-,smith1 heir-apparent to the ,king of ,scilly1 as his sobriquet was1 though ,i believe his proper local title was ,lord ,proprietor4 ,i sat at the ceremony next to my brother-in-law ,charles ,dalrymple1 who did not approve of the ever-popular ,o for the ,wings of a ,dove6 which a little chorister warbled in the course of the service4 #adb ,absurd and unreal6 ,i heard him mutter4 ,they are going to ,paris for their honeymoon1 and don't want doves' wings1 or to be at rest either4#e ,on the same evening ,i attended1 at the invitation of the genial head master of ,university ,college ,school 7whom ,i had known when on the staff of ,inverness ,college71 an excellent presentation of ,alcestis in the fine oak-panelled hall of his school at ,hampstead4 ,not all the audience witnessed dry-eyed the death of the poor heroine2 the sustained pathos1 too1 of ,admetus was admirably portrayed2 but the chief honours of the evening fell to a young hero of six-foot-four1 who had played great cricket for the school against the ,m4,c4,c41 and was a most doughty and convincing ,herakles4 ,a very pleasant evening's entertainment1 which ,i had to abandon not quite completed to catch the midnight train to ,oxford2 for ,i was interested in a debate in ,convocation next day1 on the perennial problem of how and where to house the ever-increasing thousands of books accruing to the ,bodleian ,library4 ,there were some drastic suggestions thrown out--one1 if ,i remember right1 was to make a bonfire of all the obsolete works on theology1 philosophy and natural science6 but our final decision was to adopt somebody's ingenious proposal to excavate underground chambers1 with room for a million or so volumes1 under the grass-plots round the ,radcliffe camera4 ,this point settled1 ,i went to lunch with my friend ,hadow in his rooms at ,worcester1 the former calefactory or recreation-room 7so he said7 of #adc our whilom ,benedictine students1 and looking out on a long narrow raised garden which there is reason to believe was once the monastic bowling-green4 ,i thought1 as often before1 of the many unknown nooks and corners in this dear ,oxford of ours1 each bearing its silent witness to some phase of her strange eventful history4 ,a few interesting incidents in this--my last summer term in residence--come back to me as ,i write4 ,i recall a crowded meeting at the ,town ,hall enthusiastically cheering a vitriolic attack on the ,admiralty by ,lieutenant ,carlyon ,bellairs1 ,m4,p41 ,r4,n4 7a most un-sailor-like person72 a paper1 or rather a harangue1 at the ,newman ,society1 from ,hilaire ,belloc on ,the ,church and ,reality1 which left us gasping at his cleverness but rather doubtful as to his drift2 and an odd meeting of dons and dignitaries at ,hertford ,college1 whereat ,lord ,hugh ,cecil was accepted as prospective ,parliamentary candidate for the university4 ,i have called it odd2 for odd it certainly was to hear the ,master of ,university1 who proposed ,lord ,hugh1 assert that he did so in spite of his own profound disagreement with him on fiscal1 ecclesiastical1 and educational questions6 ,as a matter of fact1 it mattered little what the ,master of ,university or anybody else thought1 said1 or did2 for as every one knew that the six hundred clerical members of ,convocation would vote for ,lord ,hugh to a man1 his election was of course a foregone conclusion4 ,my last evening at ,oxford was a happy one3 a pleasant party gathered round the ,vice-chancellor's hospitable table1 and after dinner the ,commemoration concert at ,magdalen1 ,waynflete's ancient #add hall echoing with old madrigals perfectly rendered by the unrivalled choir1 and we guests1 during the interval1 flitting about the cloisters1 dimly lit with ,chinese lanterns1 and set out with tables of refreshments4 ,i left ,oxford next day for ,birmingham1 for a jubilee celebration at the ,oratory ,school--a solemn memorial service in the fine church1 an admirable representation of ,terence's ,phormio 7as arranged by ,cardinal ,newman71 and a prize-distribution presided over by the ,duke of ,norfolk4 ,the ,duke was next day the chief guest at an ,oxford and ,cambridge ,catholic graduates' dinner in ,london1 and proposed the toast of ,oxford ,university1 to which ,i had the pleasure of replying4 ,i took occasion to point out our guest's new and close family connection with ,oxford1 where he had recently had three nephews1 while two more were shortly going up4 ,his own father1 the previous ,duke1 had been a ,cambridge man4 ,london was so sultry during these midsummer days1 that it was pleasant to find oneself transported to the ,antarctic ,circle1 listening 7at the ,albert ,hall7 to ,shackleton's fascinating narrative of his trip to the ,south ,pole4 ,his great lantern pictures made one feel almost cool3 and the groups of solemn penguins1 in their black-and-white1 pacing along the snowy shores1 were quite curiously reminiscent of a gathering of portly bishops--say at a ,pan-,anglican ,congress4 ,i refused to stay in ,london 7as ,i had proposed doing7 to attend an international anti-vivisection meeting in ,trafalgar ,square1 when ,i found that ,i was expected to speak 7from the back of a lion874 ,i fled to ,surrey1 to stay first with my sister at her #ade newly-acquired home near ,reigate1 a pretty old house in a careless-ordered garden of which ,tennyson would have approved2 and then to the ,kennards at their charming ,elizabethan manor-house of ,great ,tangley4 ,the ,sunday of my visit here ,i spent partly at the fine diocesan seminary of ,wonersh1 and partly at the ,greyfriars monastery at ,chilworth4 ,the same architect had designed the chapels at both2 and ,i admired the skill with which he had achieved extremely effective results by entirely different methods of treatment4 ,from ,surrey ,i travelled to ,scotland1 to preach a charity sermon at ,saltcoats1 in ,ayrshire1 for the excellent work of the ,society of ,st4 ,vincent of ,paul4 ,saltcoats was within easy reach of ,kelburn1 and ,i went thither for a short visit1 finding my sister enjoying what was always one of the chief pleasures of her life--that of having helped to secure the happy engagement of one of our numerous nieces1 the elder daughter of my third brother4 ,my ,oxford ,local ,examination work lay this summer not among the little maidens of ,dumfries ,convent ,school1 but at ,st4 ,wilfrid's ,college at ,oakamoor1 in the picturesque ,staffordshire ,highlands1 a country quite new to me4 ,my room commanded a lovely view of wooded glens and distant purple hills2 and the place itself was full of interest1 incorporating as it did the old house of ,cotton ,hall1 given by ,lord ,shrewsbury fifty years before to ,faber and his ,wilfridian community1 most of whom joined the ,oratory after their conversion to ,catholicism4 ,i admired ,pugin's church1 at once graceful and austere1 with the famous east window which the architect told ,lord ,shrewsbury he could #adf die for4#f ,i had a pleasant week here1 presiding on the last day at the school prize-distribution1 and promising the boys a new set of ,scott's novels1 to replace the one which1 ,i was glad to see1 was worn out with assiduous reading4 ,going on to ,cardiff from ,staffordshire1 ,i found ,lady ,bute entertaining the ,cymnodorion and other mysterious ,welsh societies in the castle grounds4 ,i was lodged in the lofty clock-tower1 in one of ,burges's wonderful painted chambers1 and said mass for the family and large house-party on ,sunday in the richly-decorated but tiny domestic chapel--so tiny 7it has been the dressing-room of ,bute's grandfather1 who died there7 that most of my congregation were outside in the passage1 and the scene recalled my mass in the ,grotto of the ,nativity at ,bethlehem eight years before4 ,i had never thought to see a ,pageant again2 but the ,welsh one1 for some reason1 had been postponed to this summer1 and we all attended the opening representation on ,july #bf1 most of our house-party1 indeed1 taking part in the show4 ,lady ,bute was ,dame ,wales1 and ,lady ,ninian ,stuart ,glamorgan2 but the great reception of the day was reserved for ,lord ,tredegar1 veteran of ,balaclava1 and the most popular magnate of ,wales1 who came on in full armour as ,owen ,glendower1 with ,lady ,llangattock as ,lady ,glendower4 ,i thought the finest feature of the ,pageant the singing of the national hymn1 ,hen ,wlad fy nhadau1 at the close1 actors and audience all joining in the stirring chorus with thrilling effect4 ,most of #adg the next day we spent at ,caerphilly ,castle1 whither ,princess ,louise and the ,duke of ,argyll came to explore the imposing ruins4 ,i spent a couple of nights1 on leaving ,cardiff1 at ,belmont ,priory1 full to me of old ,benedictine memories2 and in ,august ,i was once more my brother's guest at his pleasant river-side home near ,shepperton4 ,one day we devoted to a visit to ,hampton ,court--my first1 curiously enough4 ,we saw everything conscientiously1 great hall1 state-rooms1 pictures 7,i had not expected so many good ones71 big vine1 and ,dutch garden2 but ,i think ,i was most struck1 entering ,clock ,court under the red turreted tower1 with the almost uncanny likeness of the place to the familiar ,school-yard at ,eton4#g ,from ,shepperton ,i presently moved higher up the river to ,goring1 to attend the local regatta1 of which my kind host there was secretary and treasurer4 ,he was likewise the leading ,catholic of the little mission1 and had given up his commodious boat-house to serve as a chapel till the pretty church was built4 ,the padre at that time was a ,german priest called ,hell 7to which he later added an e for euphony71 while the name of the ,anglican vicar1 oddly enough1 was ,dams6 ,my host's son accompanied me up to town on an excursion to the ,white ,city1 where the outstanding attraction 7how strange it seems to-day67 was the aeroplane in which ,bleriot had achieved the unprecedented feat of crossing the ,channel4 ,london struck me as a curious place in mid-,august3 a city of aliens and country visitors1 ,french and ,german #adh chattered everywhere1 and the only familiar face among the millions that of ,simon ,lovat1 whom ,i came across at ,hatchard's buying books4 ,george ,lane ,fox claimed my services as chaplain1 before ,i returned to ,scotland1 at ,monkhams1 the pretty place near ,waltham ,cross where he was then living with his family2 the house stood atop of a high hill 7pleasantly cool in these sultry ,august days71 and was quite rural1 though the ,lights o' ,london were clearly visible at night not many miles away4 ,there was a tiny chapel for our daily services1 and a big scouts' camp in the park close by1 whence a quota of young worshippers turned up for ,sunday mass4 ,george took me to see the noble church at ,waltham 7surely one of the finest ,norman naves in ,england71#h and1 across the ,lea1 the beautiful and still perfect ,eleanor ,cross in the market-place1 before ,i went north to pay a few farewell visits to ,scottish relatives1 in view of my approaching departure for ,south ,america4 ,at ,blairquhan ,i found my brother entertaining his customary ,august party1 with1 as usual1 a considerable naval contingent4 ,the weather was soft--in other words1 it rained every day and all day2 but people shot1 fished1 golfed1 motored and played tennis quite regardless of the elements4 ,my brother had #adi developed a passion for mechanical music2 and the house was continuously resonant with the weird strains of pianolas1 gramophones and musical boxes4 ,there was music1 too1 of a strenuous kind when ,i reached ,dunskey in preparation for an amateur concert for some good object 7,i forget what7 at ,portpatrick4 ,my brother-in-law1 ,david ,glasgow1 sang a naval song or two with astonishing vigour and sweetness for a man of seventy-six2 ,i contributed ,the ,baby on the ,shore1 which ,i had first sung on the old ,magdalena going out to ,brazil in #ahif2 and the entertainment was so successful that an overflow concert had to be arranged for the following evening4 ,i was sorry to leave the merry and pleasant party2 but ,i was due at ,aberdeen to assist at the presentation of his portrait to our kind old friend ,bishop ,chisholm1 on the occasion of his sacerdotal golden jubilee4 ,the presentation ceremony took two hours1 and the luncheon afterwards two hours more6 ,why is there no time-limit to the oratory on such occasions8 ,i contrived to propose the health of the whole ,hierarchy of ,scotland#i in exactly six minutes 7one minute for each bishop72 but the length of some of the speeches was appalling4 ,next day ,i went on to ,fort ,augustus1 where ,i found myself1 after a quarter of a century1 presiding 7as the phrase is7 again at the organ1 our organist being away on a walking tour among the hills4 ,in the week after my return our local games 7the ,gleann ,mhor ,gathering7 came off in #aej glorious weather4 ,motors from neighbouring lodges occupied the monastic lawns3 the ,chief of ,glenmoriston and other noted highlanders were acting as judges2 and quite a special feature 7so said one of the reporters7 was given to the gay scene by the black-robed monks1 who flitted ,i like that word hither and thither with a word of welcome for all4 ,as a matter of fact1 one of our community 7a ,macdonell1 to wit7 was the moving spirit of the ,gathering1 the success of which was in great measure owing to his efforts and enthusiasm4 #a ,i would not venture to make such a statement except on the best authority--,darwin's own words4 ,see ,appendix4 #b ,dean ,burgon4 ,see ante1 page #ajd4 #c ,his grandfather1 ,sir ,john ,simeon1 ,m4,p4 for the ,isle of ,wight1 had married my father's cousin1 one of the ,colvilles of ,culross4 ,they were both converts to the ,catholic ,church4 ,johnnie succeeded his father as fourth baronet in #aiae4 #d ,for the ,catholic ,encyclopaedia 7vol4 vii41 pp4 #aj-ad74 #e ,the most inappropriate wedding-anthem ,i ever heard was at a smart marriage in ,scotland2 it was sung by a lady1 and was called1 ,with thee th' unsheltered moor ,i tread6 #f ,pugin's ecstatic allusion was1 of course1 to the tracery of the window designed by himself1 not to the 7contemporary7 stained glass1 which is in truth laid a faire fremir4 #g ,the likeness was the more remarkable in view of the fact that there is a difference of eighty years in the respective dates 7,eton c4 #addj1 ,hampton ,court1 c4 #aebj7 of the two buildings4 #h ,george was greatly amused with a description which ,i afterwards sent him from a fifty-year old church paper1 of a ,victorian restoration of this fine old church4 ,there were oak choir-stalls 7so wrote the aggrieved reporter71 but no choir1 the stalls being occupied by fashionably-dressed ladies4 ,the only ornament of the restored sanctuary was a gigantic ,royal ,arms under the ,east ,window--a work in which the treatment of the ,unicorn's tail is especially remarkable for what ,mr4 ,ruskin would call its 'loving reverence for truth4' #i ,i amused the company1 in this connection1 with the tale of the undergraduate who was asked in an examination to enumerate the ,minor ,prophets4 ,well1 said the youth after some hesitation1 ,i really do not care to make invidious distinctions6 #aea ,,chapter ,,ix #aiji-aiaj ,since my first visit to ,brazil in #ahif-ig1 my ,benedictine friends labouring in that vast country had frequently expressed the wish that ,i should1 if possible1 return and help them in their great work of restoration and reconstruction1 for which more labourers were urgently needed4 ,with health in great measure restored1 and the headship of our ,oxford ,hall1 which ,i had held for ten years1 passed into other hands1 the way to ,south ,america seemed once again open2 and the autumn of #aiji found me fully authorized to make all necessary preparations for the voyage4 ,i left ,fort ,augustus happy in the assurance that the long anticipated1 and generally desired1 reunion of our abbey with the ,english mother-congregation was certain to be soon realized2 and stayed at ,beaufort for a few days before going south1 meeting there ,abe ,bailey 7of ,south ,african renown71 ,hubert ,jerningham1 and some other interesting people4 ,my last glimpse of the ,highlands was a golden afternoon spent in the ,white ,garden 7the idea of one of the daughters of the house71 and a vision of serried masses of white blossoms--,i never realized before how many shades of white there are--standing up in their pale beauty against the dark background of trees which encircle #aeb one of the most beautiful of ,scottish gardens4 ,from ,beaufort ,i went to ,kelburn to take leave of my sister1 whom ,i found entertaining her ,girls' ,friendly ,society1 assisted by twenty bluejackets from a cruiser lying off ,arran4 ,their commander1 ,lord ,george ,seymour1 had brought his sailors by express invitation to play about and have tea with the ,friendly ,girls--an arrangement which seemed quite satisfactory to all parties6 ,i crossed the ,firth next day to say good-bye to ,lady ,bute1 who was in residence at her pretty home in the ,isle of ,cumbrae1 and went on the same afternoon to visit my hospitable cousin ,mrs4 ,wauchope at beautiful ,niddrie4 ,the ,somersets and other agreeable folk were my fellow-guests there2 and ,andrew ,lang arrived next day1 and seemed--shall ,i say it8--a little bit out of the picture4 ,i was accustomed to his small affectations and egotisms and cynical asides1 which always seemed to me more or less of a pose2 for the eminent writer was really a very kind-hearted man1 and ,i dare say just as humble-minded in reality as any of us4 ,the poor ,duke of ,somerset1 however1 who had no affectations or pretentions of any kind1 could not do with ,mr4 ,lang at all2 and ,i remember his imploring me 7against my usual habit7 to come and sit in the smoking-room at night1 so that they should be on no account left tete-a-tete6 ,on ,sunday we all walked to see the noble ruins of ,craigmillar ,castle1 sadly reminiscent of poor ,queen ,mary1 and admirably tended by their present owner1 whom we chanced to meet there1 and whom ,i interested by a tale 7oddly enough he had never heard it7 of a ghost-face on the wall of his own house at ,liberton4 ,at ,woodburn1 where ,i spent the following ,sunday1 #aec and where ,lord ,ralph and ,lady ,anne ,kerr were always delighted to welcome a priest to officiate in their tiny oratory1 ,i found staying with ,ralph his brother ,lord ,walter1 whose seventieth birthday we kept as a family festival1 and who on the same day retired1 as ,admiral of the ,fleet1 from the ,navy in which he had served for fifty-six years4 ,our birthday expedition was a most interesting pilgrimage to the ,holy ,well of ,st4 ,triduana1 near ,restalrig1 with its beautiful vaulted ,gothic roof1 recently restored by the owner1 ,lord ,moray4#a ,the unpretentious little ,catholic chapel hard by pleased me more than the elaborate and expensive new church recently erected at ,portobello1 which we also visited4 ,i broke my journey south at ,longridge ,towers1 and whilst there motored over with ,sir ,brooke ,boothby1 our ,minister in ,chili 7an agreeable and well-informed person7 to see the poor remains of the great convent at ,coldingham--sad enough1 but wonderfully interesting4 ,i made a farewell call at ,ampleforth en route1 lingering an hour at ,york to admire the west front of the minster1 from which all the scaffolding was at length down after years of careful and patient repairs4 ,hurrying through ,london1 ,i travelled to ,brighton and ,seaford1 for the opening 7by the ,bishop of ,southwark7 of the new ,ladycross school1 recently transferred from ,bournemouth4 ,there was quite a notable gathering of old pupils and friends1 and ,i had a charming neighbour at luncheon in the person of ,madame ,navarro 7,mary ,anderson71 on my other #aed side being ,count ,riccardi-,cubitt1 ,english-born1 but a ,papal ,count in right of his wife4 ,the speeches1 from the bishop1 ,lord ,southwell1 and others1 were for once commendably short4 ,i was bidden to meet at luncheon in ,london next day ,princess ,marie ,louise--a title unfamiliar to me3 it had1 in fact1 been lately adopted to avoid confusion with an aunt and cousin1 both also called ,louise4 ,we spoke of the recent re-discovery of an abbey in ,lincolnshire1 of which literally not a single stone had been left above ground by the iconoclasts of the sixteenth century4 ,my terrible great-uncle again1 ,i suppose6 said ,her ,highness with a deprecatory smile4 ,the reference was to ,henry ,,viii46 but ,i hazarded a conjecture that the work of destruction dated from later and ,puritan days4 ,i attended on this same afternoon the marriage of my old friend ,herbert ,maxwell's only son to the youngest daughter of the ,house of ,percy1 at ,st4 ,peter's1 ,eaton ,square1 the bright and ornate interior of which contrasted cheerfully with the mirk and mire outside4 ,the ,bishop of ,peterborough1 the bride's uncle1 tied the knot2 and the church1 and the ,duchess of ,northumberland's house in ,grosvenor ,place afterwards1 were thronged with ,percys and ,campbells and ,glyns4 ,after two busy days at ,oxford1 devoted to packing up and to taking hasty farewells of kind old friends 7both things ,i detest71 ,i went down to ,hampshire to spend the ,sunday previous to sailing with my brother at ,kneller ,court4 ,the omens were inauspicious1 for it blew hard all day1 with torrents of rain4 ,next morning1 however1 was calm and bright as we motored to ,southampton1 where ,i boarded #aee ,r4,m4,s4,p4 ,aragon1 nearly #e1jjj tons bigger than the good old ,magdalena4 ,we sailed at noon1 crossed to ,cherbourg in perfect weather1 and found the ,bay of ,biscay next day all smiles and dimples and sunshine4 ,i did not land at ,lisbon1 having seen it all before1 and having no friends there4 ,we dropped quietly down the ,tagus at sundown1 just when points of light were breaking out over the city1 and all the church bells seemed to be ringing the ,angelus4 ,we had a full ship1 and our voyage was diversified by the usual sports1 of which ,i was an honorary president1 my colleagues in that sinecure office being a ,brazilian coffee-king1 the ,president-elect of ,argentina1 and a ,belgian ,baron4 ,there were four ,scotsmen at my table in the saloon1 three of them ,davids6 ,somewhere about the ,equator we kept the birthday of ,king ,edward1 whose health was pledged by ,brazilians and ,argentinos as cordially and enthusiastically as by the ,british4 ,i wrote to ,fritz ,ponsonby to tell him of this1 for ,his ,majesty's information4#b ,two days later we sighted the low green shores of ,brazil4 ,i looked with interest at the well-remembered heights of ,olinda1 with the white walls of ,s4 ,bento shining #aef in the morning sun4 ,somehow ,i did not picture myself stationed there again1 though a newspaper which came aboard at ,pernambuco announced1 ,i noticed1 that o conhecido educationalista sr4 ,david ,hurter-blais was coming to that city afim de tratar da educacao religiosa das classes populares6 ,the passengers for ,pernambuco1 ,i observed1 were now chucked into the ,company's lighter in a basket 7in ,west ,african style71 instead of having to shin down a dangerous companion in a heavy swell1 as we used to do4 ,two lank-haired red-brown ,indians1 who came on board here to sell feather fans and such things1 interested me2 and ,i recalled how ,emerson had described the aboriginals of ,north ,america as the provisional races--the red-crayon sketch of humanity laid on the canvas before the colours for the real manhood were ready4 ,my destination on this voyage was not1 as thirteen years previously1 the steaming ,equatorial ,state of ,pernambuco1 and the venerable half-derelict city of ,olinda1 whither our ,benedictine pioneers had come out from ,europe soon after the fall of the ,brazilian ,empire1 just in time1 as it seemed1 to save the ,benedictine ,order in that vast country from collapse and utter extinction4 ,from ,olinda the arduous work of revival and restoration had gone quietly and steadily on1 including one by one the ancient and almost abandoned abbeys of the old ,brazilian ,congregation2 and it was to one of these1 the monastery of our ,order in the great and growing city of ,s4 ,paulo1 that my steps were now turned4 ,bahia1 two days voyage from ,pernambuco1 is a city to which 7like ,constantinople7 distance very decidedly lends enchantment1 and ,i did not land #aeg there4 ,it was raining fast1 and the fantastic hilltops were wrapped in clouds1 as we entered ,rio ,bay4 ,i was welcomed by a kind ,belgian monk whom ,i had known at ,olinda in #ahif1 and who drove me up to our fine old ,portuguese abbey1 standing on its own mount or morro close to the sea1 where ,i had paid my respects to the last of the old ,brazilian abbots a dozen years before4 ,a vigorous young community now occupied the long-empty cells2 and the conduct of a flourishing college1 as well as pastoral work of various kinds outside1 gave scope to their energy and zeal4 ,the weather next day was perfect1 and my friend ,dom ,amaro devoted two or three hours to driving me round the ,city ,beautiful4 ,beautiful1 of course1 it had always been2 but ,i was astounded at the transformation which had taken place in four short years4 ,from the cemetery of the foreigner1 as ,rio had been called when its name1 like those of ,santos1 ,havana and ,panama1 had been almost synonymous with pestilence and death1 it had become one of the healthiest1 as it had always been one of the loveliest1 capitals in the world4 ,four men--,brazilians all--minister of works1 engineer1 doctor1 and prefect of the city1#c had undertaken in #aije the gigantic task of the city's sanitation4 ,the extermination of the mosquitoes which caused yellow fever and malaria1 the destruction of their breeding-places1 the widening of malodorous streets1 the demolition of thousands of buildings1 the disinfection #aeh and removal of tens of thousands of tons of garbage1 the filling-up of swamps and marshes1 were only preliminary to the colossal work of reconstruction of which ,i saw some of the results4 ,right through the central city was pierced the new ,avenida1 a broad thoroughfare lined with noble buildings1 of which the theatre1 built at enormous cost1 and rivalling the ,paris ,opera1 struck me most4 ,more striking still was the new ,beira ,mar1 the unique sea-drive skirting the bay for four miles1 and leading to the equally beautiful circular esplanade round the ,bay of ,botafogo4 ,here ,i left cards and letters of introduction on the ,british ,minister 7who1 ,i may remark en passant1 never took the slightest notice of either17#d2 and we drove homewards in a golden sunset1 the whole city flushed with rosy light1 and the heights of ,corcovado and the ,organ ,mountains glowing purple--as purple as the evening tints of ,hymettus and ,pentelicus which gave to ,athens the immortal name of ,greek3 ,iostephanos1 the violet-crowned4 ,behind us the pointed ,sugar-loaf rose grey and menacing into the opal sky2 and ,i recalled the quaint ,brazilian tradition which tells how the ,creator1 when ,he had made the ,bay of ,rio and found it very good1 desired to call man's admiring attention to ,his masterpiece by a mark of exclamation4 ,the mark of exclamation is the ,sugar-loaf6 ,we met in the ,avenida1 returning from a grand formatura 7review7 in honour of the day 7it was the anniversary of the foundation of the ,republic71 the ,president--a #aei mulatto1 by the way--and his staff1 in a none too gorgeous gala carriage4 ,i was told that he was extremely popular4 ,to reach ,s4 ,paulo from ,rio ,i had the choice of two routes1 the pleasanter being that by sea to ,santos1 and an ascent thence to the inland city by one of the most wonderful of the world's railways4 ,but as ,i wished to see something of the country1 ,i chose the twelve hours' train journey direct from the capital--and repented my choice2 for though the first part of the route was through fine scenery1 as we climbed the lofty ,serra which stretches for miles along the ,brazilian coast1 the dust1 heat and jolting of the train soon grew almost insufferable4 ,i was very glad to reach ,s4 ,paulo1 where the air was pleasantly cool and fresh 7the city stands #b1ajj feet above the sea1 and just outside the tropical zone#e71 and where the kind abbot of ,s4 ,bento1 whom ,i had known up to then only by correspondence1 met me at the station4 ,we were soon at his monastery1 which was well situated1 occupying a whole side of one of the principal squares of the city1 and of historic interest as built on the same spot where1 three hundred and ten years before1 the first ,benedictine foundation in the then village of ,s4 ,paulo had been made by ,frei ,mauro ,texeira1 a zealous and fervent monk of ,bahia4 ,the monastery1 as ,i knew it in #aiji1 was an unpretentious building of the early eighteenth century1 constructed not of stone but of taipa 7compressed earth71 its long #afj whitewashed front pierced by ten windows1 and flanked by the facade of the church with its low cupola'd tower4 ,my host1 ,abbot ,miguel1 who had been appointed prior of the restored abbey in #aijj1 and abbot seven years later1 had inaugurated in #aijc a school for boys1 which numbered at my arrival some #cjj pupils4 ,for their accommodation1 and for that of his growing community1 he had done all that was possible with the old and inadequate buildings of the monastery1 to which he had built on various additions4 ,but he and his community had already decided that a complete reconstruction of both abbey and church was absolutely essential for the development of their educational and other work2 and ,i found them all studying and discussing ornate and elaborate plans by a well-known ,bavarian architect1 who had let himself go in a west front apparently in ,english ,elizabethan style 7recalling ,hatfield71 and a ,byzantine church with ,perpendicular ,gothic details and two lofty towers4#f ,the process of demolition1 commencing with the choir of the old church1 was started a few weeks after ,i reached ,s4 ,paulo2 and ,i remember that we were nearly asphyxiated by the falling and crumbling walls1 which 7as ,i have said7 were built of a kind of adobe or dried mud1 and broke into thick clouds of blinding yellow dust as they tumbled about our ears4 ,the rebuilding of the ,benedictine ,abbey was only #afa one feature1 and not the most considerable1 of the architectural transformation which was taking place before one's eyes in every part of ,s4 ,paulo1 and was developing it from an insignificant provincial capital into one of the largest and most progressive cities of ,south ,america4 ,in twenty years the population had increased tenfold--from fifty thousand to nearly half a million--and two facts struck me as both remarkable and encouraging1 namely that the birth-rate was more than double the death-rate1 and was 7so ,i was told7 more than double that of ,london--nearly thirty-six per thousand4 ,the ,state and city of ,s4 ,paulo were alike cosmopolitan1 #cjj1jjj immigrants 7more than half of them ,italians7 having entered the country in the year before my arrival1 and more than half the population being of foreign birth4 ,the vast majority of the day-labourers in the city were ,italians1 on the whole an industrious and thrifty race 7though not without obvious faults71 who assimilated themselves without difficulty to the country of their adoption4 ,the rapidly growing prosperity of ,s4 ,paulo was shown by the astonishing appreciation in a few years of the value of land in and around the city--exceeding1 so ,i was assured by a prominent ,american1 any phenomenon of the kind in the ,united ,states4 ,our ,abbot had1 not long before my arrival1 acquired with wise prescience a fine country estate in the eastern outskirts1 which was already worth at least ten times what he had expended on its purchase4 ,the chacara 7as such properties are called7 included a fine old house of ,imperial days1 garden1 farm1 orchard1 extensive woods1 as well as a lake1 football fields1 playgrounds and a rifle-range2 and here our young pupils spent #afb one day every week enjoying the open-air life and sports unattainable in the city4 ,the college1 or gymnasio1 of ,s4 ,bento had already taken its recognised place among the best educational institutions of ,s4 ,paulo4 ,the fathers were assisted in the work of teaching by a competent staff of lay masters1 but retained the religious1 moral1 and disciplinary training of their pupils entirely in their own hands2 and ,i was pleased to see how eminently suited the paternal and family spirit characteristic of ,benedictine education was to ,brazilian boys1 and how well on the whole they responded to the efforts of their instructors to instil into them those habits of obedience1 self-control1 and moral responsibility1 in which the home training of the children of ,latin ,america is often so deplorably deficient4 ,naturally docile1 pious1 and intelligent1 these little boys were brought under the salutary influence of ,s4 ,bento at an age when there seemed every hope that they would be tided safely over the difficult years of early adolescence1 and moulded1 under solid ,christian guidance1 into efficient and worthy citizens of their ,state and their country4#g ,english was taught by an ,american priest1 who was also an excellent musician1 and trained our little choristers very successfully4 ,several of the fathers spoke ,english well2 but ,i was the only ,british-born member of the community1 and ,i was naturally glad of opportunities to meet the scattered ,english #afc ,catholics who were to be found among the not very numerous ,british resident colony4 ,our little old church1 unattractive enough as to externals1 was yet greatly frequented by those 7and they were many7 who appreciated the careful reverence of the ceremonial and grave beauty of the monastic chant4 ,sermons in ,portuguese and ,german were already preached regularly at the ,sunday masses2 and to these was added soon after my arrival an ,english sermon1 which was very well attended4 ,one came sometimes in the hospitals of the city1 which ,i visited regularly1 on stray ,englishmen of another class--an injured railwayman1 perhaps1 or a sick sailor from a ,british ship1 who were glad enough1 even if not ,catholics1 of a friendly visit from a countryman4 ,i remember a young ,englishman from ,warrington in ,lancashire 7this was one of the consoling cases71 who was dying of some obscure tropical disease in the ,santa ,casa1 the chief hospital of the city4 ,it was the hottest time of year1 and he suffered much1 but never once murmured or complained4 ,he had been baptized by a ,benedictine 7but eighteen years before7 in his native town in ,england1 and he looked on it1 as he said1 as a bit of real luck to be tended by a ,benedictine on his death-bed4 ,o santinho inglez 7the little ,english saint7 his nurses called him2 and his death--he was never free from pain to the last--was truly the death of the just1 and made an ineffaceable impression on those who witnessed it4 ,fiant novissima mea hujus similia6 ,i soon fell into the routine of our ,brazilian monastic day1 which differed a good deal 7especially as to the hours for meals7 from our ,european time-tables4 #afd ,coffee betimes2 breakfast 7almoco7 before noon2 dinner at half-past five1 after vespers1 suited the school hours1 and the busy life of the community4 ,we anticipated matins at seven p4m42 hurried to the refectory for a dish of scalding tea 7smothered in sugar1 no milk71 or a glass of lemonade1 then hastened back to choir for night prayers and sundry pious exercises4 ,this final collation 7if it may be so called7 was really alarming3 the scorching tea was gulped down with a reckless rapidity which reminded one of ,quilp tossing off the hissing rum in his riverside arbour6 and ,i used to return to choir positively perspiring4 ,but our commissariat was on the whole good1 if simple2 we had no such privations to face as in old days at ,olinda1 and as far as ,i was concerned the kind abbot was always on the alert to see that ,i wanted for nothing4 ,our chacara supplied us with farm produce of the best2 and great platters of green and purple grapes1 from the same source1 were at this season served up at every meal4 ,the abbot1 on his first free day1 drove me round the interesting city4 ,we visited a fine girls' school1 conducted by ,augustinian canonesses2 the superior was sister to an ,anglo-,irish ,benedictine1 and another nun was a ,macpherson1 with an accent of that ilk4 ,we saw1 also1 two institutions founded by the ,abbot1 ,st4 ,adalbert's ,parochial schools1 under nuns of ,st4 ,catherine1 and a hospital managed by sisters of the same ,order4 ,the hospital stood at the end of the ,avenida ,paulista1 a noble boulevard lined with handsome houses of every imaginable style of architecture--,gothic1 ,renaissance1 ,moorish1 ,swiss1 ,venetian1 classical1 rococo1 each one in its own glowing and luxuriant garden4 ,this1 naturally1 was the rich #afe man's quarter2 the working people had of course their own dwellings1 chiefly in the populous industrial district of ,braz4 ,but ,i saw no slums in ,s4 ,paulo1 and nowhere the depressing contrast between ostentatious luxury and poverty-stricken squalor which is the blot on so many ,european cities4 ,in ,s4 ,paulo there was1 in fact1 no poverty3#h there was work and employment and food for all2 and it is true to say there was no need for any man to be a pauper except through his own fault4 ,to any one with preconceived ideas of ,south ,american cities as centres of lethargy1 indolence1 and want of enterprise1 the industrial activity and abounding prosperity of ,s4 ,paulo could not but appear as astonishing4 ,that prosperity1 as most people know1 was mainly due to the foresight and energy with which the ,paulistas had realised and utilised the fact that their famous terra roxa was adaptable for coffee-culture on a scale truly gigantic4 ,two years before my arrival 7in #aijf-jg7 the production of coffee in ,brazil 7three-fourths of it grown in ,s4 ,paulo7 had reached the amazing figure of twenty million sacks1 five times what it had been a quarter of a century before4 ,then1 when the supply was found to exceed the demand1 when prices fell by leaps and bounds1 and financial disaster seemed imminent1 the shrewd ,paulistas conceived and adopted the much-criticised expedient of valorisation1 the ,state itself purchasing an enormous quantity of the crop1 and holding it up until prices became again normal4 ,it was in this and in many #aff other ways that the ,paulistas showed the clearsightedness and acumen which justly gained for their ,state and their capital the reputation of being the most enterprising and progressive on the whole ,south ,american continent4 ,the abbot and ,i finished our afternoon's drive with a little expedition to ,cantareira1 a hollow among wooded hills1 some twelve or fourteen miles distant 7the access is by a steam tramway71 where1 set in charming gardens1 are some of the spacious reservoirs feeding the city4 ,we drank our coffee in a rustic arbour1 with bright-hued hummingbirds glancing and circling round our heads2 and returning in the luminous violet twilight 7which struck me always as particularly beautiful in this clear1 high smokeless atmosphere71 called to pay our respects to the ,archbishop of the province and diocese of ,s4 ,paulo4 ,a zealous parish priest in the city1 where he had built a fine church 7,st4 ,cecilia's71 he had been made ,bishop of ,coritiba at only thirty1 and translated to the metropolitan see two years later4 ,he was not yet thirty-eight4 ,i assisted1 before our school broke up for the three months' summer holidays1 at some of the examinations1 which were conducted in presence of a fiscal 7,government official71 our college being at that time considered equiparado1 i4e41 equivalent to the ,state secondary schools1 a condition of the privilege being some kind of more or less nominal ,government inspection4 ,the school work1 it struck me1 had all been very thoroughly done1 though perhaps of a somewhat elementary kind4 ,a distraction to us all during the last hour was the news of a great fire raging in the principal business street of the #afg city4 ,a big ,german warehouse1 the ,casa ,allema1 was in fact burned to the ground2 and we surveyed the conflagration 7said1 but never proved1 to be the work of incendiaries7 from the belfry of our church tower4 ,the ,north ,american element in ,s4 ,paulo1 though much smaller than it became later1 was already fairly numerous4 ,a great ,canadian company was responsible for the supply of light and power to ,s4 ,paulo as well as ,rio2 some of the leading officials in both cities were ,catholics1 and became my kind friends4 ,another hospitable friend was a ,scots banker married to an ,american wife1 whom he habitually addressed as ,honey6#i ,there was1 generally1 a very friendly and hospitable spirit among the ,english-speaking residents2 but 7as usual in foreign cities7 it was curiously confined to the circle of their own countrymen4 ,some of my ,brazilian acquaintances used to express regret that the ,english colony1 for which they had much respect1 never evinced the least desire for any sort of intimacy with them2 and it used to surprise me to find ,english families which had been settled in the country for a whole generation or more1 of which not a single member knew sufficient ,portuguese to carry on a quarter of an hour's conversation with an educated ,brazilian of their own class4 ,personally1 ,i found such ,brazilians as ,i had the pleasure of meeting #afh almost uniformly extremely agreeable people--kind1 courteous1 cultivated1 and refined2 and ,i thought1 and still think1 the insular aloofness of my countrymen from the people among whom it was their lot to live1 a distinct disadvantage to themselves1 and a mistake from every point of view4 ,it was a curious fact1 and one worthy of attention from several points of view1 that at the time of which ,i am writing the public and official interest of the ,paulistas in educational matters1 while undoubtedly exceeding that of any other community in the ,republic1 was in practice almost confined to primary schools4 ,nearly ,l#djj1jjj1 a fifth of the whole annual budget of the ,state1 was devoted to their support and extension2 many of the school buildings were of almost palatial appearance2 the code was carefully thought out1 and the teaching as a whole efficient2 and elementary education was1 at least in principle1 obligatory1 though the provisions of the law of #ahic1 which had established a commission for bringing negligent parents to book and fining them for non-compliance with the law1 were to a great extent a dead letter4 ,for secondary education1 on the other hand1 the public provision was of the slenderest3 there were in #aiji but three ,state secondary schools in the ,state of ,s4 ,paulo--at ,campinas and ,ribeirao ,preto1 and in the capital2 and the ,lyceu in the last-named city 7with a population of over #djj1jjj7 numbered less than #aej pupils4 ,the all-important work of the education of the middle and upper classes of children1 both boys and girls1 thus fell inevitably into the hands of private teachers1 the best colleges for both sexes 7mostly internatos #afi or boarding-schools7 being conducted by foreign religious orders4 ,these institutions1 receiving no ,state subvention of any kind1 were regarded by the ,state with a tolerance due less to its appreciation of the principles on which their education was based1 than to an obvious sense of the economic advantage of leaving private associations to undertake a work which it neglected itself4 ,the net gain of this policy of laisser aller was that a large number of children1 belonging to the classes on which depended the future prosperity of the country1 were being carefully educated on solid ,christian foundations1 without1 as far as ,i could observe at ,s4 ,bento and elsewhere1 any sacrifice of the patriotic principles which ,brazil quite rightly desired should be instilled into the rising generation of her sons and daughters4 #a ,st4 ,trid's ,well 7as it was called before the ,reformation7 had the repute of miraculously curing diseases of the eye4 ,a satirical sixteenth-century poet scoffs at the folk who flock to ,saint ,trid's to mend their ene4 #b ,the ,king 7so his secretary wrote to me7 was much surprised and gratified at hearing how the toast of his health had been received by the foreign passengers on an ,english ship4 ,i sent on the letter from ,s4 ,paulo to the captain1 who said it should be framed and hung up on board1 but ,i never heard if this was done4 ,edward ,,vii4 died less than six months later1 and on ,december #cj1 #aiag1 the ,aragon1 whilst on transport service in the ,mediterranean1 was torpedoed 7together with her escort ,h4,m4,s4 ,attack71 a few miles from ,alexandria4 ,the ship went down within half an hour of being struck1 with a loss of more than six hundred lives4 #c ,their names are worthy of perpetuation--,lauro ,muller1 ,paulo ,frontin1 ,pareiro ,passo 7the ,haussmann of ,brazil71 and ,dr4 ,oswaldo ,cruz1 a pupil of ,pasteur1 and popularly known as the mata-mosquitos 7mosquito-killer74 #d ,this lapse from diplomatic courtesy on the part of ,sir ,william ,haggard was1 ,i take pleasure in recalling1 amply atoned for later by the kindness ,i received from two of his successors as ,british representative in ,rio4 #e ,the ,tropic of ,capricorn passes through ,s4 ,paulo--,i had even heard said1 through the monastery garden of ,s4 ,bento4 ,let us dig and look for it1 said one of my little pupils to whom ,i imparted this supposed geographical fact4 #f ,when ,i saw ,s4 ,bento 7after a long interval7 eleven years later1 the new buildings 7except for the internal decoration of the church7 were practically complete4 ,many of the details were no doubt open to criticism1 and were in fact rather severely criticised2 but it was a tribute to the architect that the general effect of his work was recognized as being both dignified and impressive4 #g ,when ,i returned to ,s4 ,paulo eleven years later1 ,i heard with pleasure from the parents of some of our former pupils of the satisfactory way in which their sons had turned out--a happy result which they attributed to the excellence of their upbringing at ,s4 ,bento4 #h ,let me note once for all that whatever ,i say about ,s4 ,paulo1 here and elsewhere1 is founded 7facts and figures alike7 on what ,i knew and learned of the city in #aiji-aj4 ,a dozen years may1 and do1 bring many changes6 #i ,honey6 said an ,american bride 7returning from an early morning walk7 at a door--which she imagined to be that of the nuptial chamber--in the corridor of a big hotel2 honey6 it's me3 let me in4 ,no response4 ,honey6 it's me1 it's ,mamie3 open the door4 ,still no answer4 ,honey6 honey6 don't you hear8 it's me1 honey4 ,gruff 7unknown7 male voice3 ,madam1 this is not a beehive1 it's a bathroom6 #agj ,,chapter ,x #aiaj ,the early days of ,december brought me news from ,england of the death of ,provost ,hornby1 my old head master at ,eton1 aged well over eighty4 ,he had birched me three times2#a still1 ,i bore him no malice1 though ,i did not feel so overcome by the news as ,tom ,brown did when he heard of the death of his old head master4#b ,an eminent scholar1 a double blue at ,oxford1 of aspect dignified yet kindly1 he had seemed to unite all the qualities necessary or desirable for an arch-pedagogue2 yet #aga no head master had ever entered an office under a cloud of greater unpopularity4 ,we were all ,tories at ,eton in the 'sixties2 and the rumoured association of the new head with the hated word ,reform 7which his predecessor ,dr4 ,balston was said to have stoutly resisted7 aroused in our youthful breasts a suspicion and dislike which culminated in the words ,no ,reform6 being actually chalked on the back of his gown 7,i personally witnessed the outrage7 as he was ascending the stairs into ,upper ,school4 ,tempora mutantur3 ,i dare say there are plenty of young ,etonian ,radicals nowadays2 though ,i do seem to have heard of ,mr4 ,winston ,churchill having been vigorously hooted in ,school ,yard1 on his first appearance at his old school after finding salvation in the ,radical camp4 ,two or three weeks before ,christmas our abbot found himself rather suddenly obliged to sail for ,europe on important business--leaving me a little forlorn1 for he was my only real friend in our rather cosmopolitan community1 though all were kindly and pleasant4 ,the midsummer heat1 too1 was more trying than ,i had anticipated on this elevated plateau2 and though the nights were sensibly cooler1 they were disturbed by mosquitoes1 tram-bells in the square outside1 grillos and cigarras in our cloister garden beneath1 our discordant church bells#c striking every quarter above one's head1 and our big watch-dog1 ,bismarck1 baying in the yard4 ,i accompanied the abbot to the station1 where the dispedida 7leave-taking7 in this country was always an affair of much demonstration and copious embracing4 ,when #agb he had gone we all settled down for a week's retreat1 given by a venerable-looking and 7,i am sure7 pious1 but extraordinarily grimy1 ,redemptorist father1 who must have found it an uncommonly hard week's work in the then temperature1 for he doubled each of his ,portuguese sermons by a duplicate ,german discourse addressed to the lay brethren4 ,this pious exercise over1 we prepared for the ,christmas festival1 which ,i enjoyed4 ,it was my privilege to officiate at matins and lauds and the solemn ,mass1 lasting from half-past ten till nearly two4 ,our church 7the demolition of which had not yet begun7 was elaborately adorned and filled with a crowd of devout communicants1 young and old2 and when the long services were over1 our good brothers gathered round the ,christmas crib1 and sang immensely long and pious ,german songs far into the small hours of morning4 ,later in the day ,i went up to ,paradise 7,paraiso1 the name of one of our picturesque suburbs71 and lunched with the kind ,canadian family whose pleasant hospitality constitutes one of the most agreeable souvenirs of my sojourn at ,s4 ,paulo1 both at this time and ten years later4 ,after ,new ,year we had a sudden cool spell1 with a southerly wind bringing refreshing airs from the ,pole2 and ,i profited by it to extend my daily walk1 visiting churches and other places of interest in and about the city4 ,such old ,portuguese churches as the ,se 7cathedral7 had a certain interest1 though no beauty in themselves4 ,the side altars1 surmounted by fat and florid saints boxed up in arbours of artificial flowers1 were painfully grotesque2 and the big church was decked 7for ,christmastide7 with #agc faded red damask which1 like ,mrs4 ,skewton's rose-coloured curtains1 only made uglier what was already ugly4 ,a scheme1 however1 was afoot for pulling the whole place down2 and a model and plans for a great ,gothic cathedral of white granite were already on exhibition in a neighbouring window1 and were exciting much attention4 ,a few of the other old churches in the city had already been demolished to make way for new ones1 mostly of an uninteresting ,german ,romanesque type1 planned by ,german architects4 ,native talent1 however1 was responsible for the splendid theatre1 its facade adorned with red granite monoliths2 but the finest building in ,s4 ,paulo 7perhaps in ,brazil7 was the creation of an ,italian architect 7,bezzi74 ,this was the noble palace at ,ypiranga--a site dear to ,brazilians as the scene of the ,proclamation of ,independence in #ahbb--now used as a museum of ethnography and natural history1 and containing collections of great and constantly increasing value and importance4 ,s4 ,paulo in #aiji was--perhaps is even now1 a dozen years later--a city still in the making2#d but the intelligence of its planning1 the zeal of its enterprising citizens for its extension and embellishment1 and the noticeable skill and speed of the workmen 7nearly all ,italians7 under whose hands palatial buildings were rising on every side1 were full of promise for the future4 ,in #aiji the ,instituto ,serumtherapico1 now very adequately housed at ,butantan 7popularly known #agd as the chacara dos serpentes1 or snake-farm71 a mile or two from the city1 was only beginning1 after years of patient and fruitful research1 its remarkable work--a work of which 7like the sanitation and reconstruction of ,rio and the successful campaign against yellow fever7 the credit is due to ,brazilians and not to the strangers within their gates4 ,the serums discovered by the founder of the ,institute1 ,dr4 ,vidal ,brazil1 for the cure of snake-bite are as important and beneficent1 within the vast area where the mortality from this cause has hitherto been far greater than is generally known or supposed1 as ,pasteur's world-famous treatment for hydrophobia4 ,one serum is efficacious against the rattlesnake's bite1 another against the venom of the urutu1 the jararaca1 and other deadly species1 while a third is an antidote to the poison of any snake whatever4 ,twenty-five per cent4 of snake-bite cases have hitherto1 it is estimated1 proved fatal2 when the serum is administered in time cure is practically certain4 ,to ,dr4 ,brazil is also due the credit of the discovery of the mussurana1 the great snake1 harmless to man1 which not only kills but devours venomous reptiles of all kinds1 even those as big as1 or bigger than1 itself4 ,it was expected1 ,i was told1 that the encouragement of the propagation of this remarkable ophidian might lead in time to the extermination of poisonous serpents not only in the ,state of ,s4 ,paulo1 but in every part of tropical ,brazil4 ,the traditional ,benedictine hospitality was never wanting at our abbey3 the guest-rooms were always occupied1 and the guest-table in the refectory was a kaleidoscope of changing colour--now the violet sash and cap of a bishop from some remote ,state1 #age now the brown of a ,franciscan or bearded ,capuchin1 the white wool of a ,dominican missionary or a ,trappist monk from the far interior1 or the sombre habit of one of our own brethren from some distant abbey on the long ,brazilian coast4 ,nor were the poorer claimants for rest and refreshment forgotten4 ,i remember the ,british ,consul1 after seeing the whole establishment1 saying that what pleased him most was the noonday entertainment of the lame1 blind1 and halt in the entrance-hall1 and the spectacle of our good ,italian porter1 ,brother ,pio ,brunelli1 dispensing the viands 7which the ,consul thought looked and smelled uncommonly good7 to our humble guests4 ,our ,trappist visitor mentioned above was procurador of a large agricultural settlement in charge of his ,order2 and ,i remember understanding so much of his technical talk1 after dinner1 about their methods of hauling out trees by their roots1 and their machinery for drying rice in rainy weather1 as to convince me that my ,portuguese was making good progress6 ,all our cablegrams from ,england in these days were occupied with the ,general ,election1 the result of which 7#bge ,liberals to #bgc ,unionists7 was vastly interesting1 leaving1 as it appeared to do1 the balance of power absolutely in the hands of the seventy ,irish ,nationalists4 ,several ,catholic candidates 7,british7 had been defeated1 but nine were returned to the new ,parliament--five ,unionists and four ,rad4-,nat4-,libs4 ,of greater personal interest to me was the welcome and not unexpected news that by a ,roman ,decree issued on the last day of #aiji our monastery of ,fort ,augustus had been reunited with the ,english #agf ,benedictine ,congregation1 our position of splendid isolation as a ,pontifical ,abbey being thus at an end4 ,my letters informed me that the abbot's resignation had already been accepted1 and ,dom ,hilary ,willson installed in office by the delegate of the ,english ,abbot-president1 with the good will of all concerned1 and the special blessing of ,pope ,pius ,x41 conveyed in a telegram from ,cardinal ,merry del ,val1 the ,papal ,secretary of ,state4 ,the new superior's appointment was ad nutum ,sanctae ,sedis1 i4e4 for an undetermined period2 and the late abbot 7whose health was greatly impaired7 was authorised to retire1 as he desired1 to a cell--a commodious house and chapel--belonging to our abbey1 high among pine-woods near ,buckie1 in ,banffshire4#e ,my mail brought me1 too1 tidings of the marriage of the sons and daughters of quite a number of old friends--,balfour of ,burleigh1 ,north ,dalrymple 7,stair's brother71 the ,skenes of ,pitlour and ,all ,souls1 ,oxford2 also of the engagement of ,lovat's sister ,margaret to ,stirling of ,keir1 and of the death 7under sad circumstances already referred to7#f of ,ninian ,crichton ,stuart's poor little son4 ,i heard with pleasure from ,abbot ,miguel that he hoped shortly to return to us3 he had already cabled the single word ,demoli2 our poor old choir was under the hands of the house-breakers2 and we were saying office temporarily in the chapter-room1 lighted by such inefficient lamps #agg that ,i could read hardly a line of my breviary by their glimmer4#g ,just a song at twilight1 ,when the lights are low1 is all very well in its way2 but the conditions are not suitable for matins and lauds lasting an hour and a half6 ,after an interval of this discomfort1 we get into our corozinho provisorio 7temporary little choir71 a hantle cut out of the nave1 which was still standing2 and there we recited our office during the remainder of my stay4 ,st4 ,benedict's feast this year fell after ,easter2 and we kept it with solemn services in our diminished church 7which was packed to the doors71 an eloquent panegyric preached by the vicar-general1 and a good many guests in the refectory4 ,the fare was lavish--too lavish for the temperature3 there were soup1 fish1 oysters and prawns1 three courses of meat1 tarts and tidiness1 and great platters of fruit1 khakis 7persimmons71 mamoes1 abacaxis 7small pineapples71 etc4 ,oh6 ,todgers's could do it when it liked6#h ,i sat for a while afterwards with our ,u4,s4,a4 padre1 just returned from a week's trip on an ,american steamer4 ,he had grown restive under the sumptuary laws 7cassock-wearing1 etc47 of our archdiocese1 and as soon as the school holidays began1 had donned his straw hat and monkey-jacket1 and gone off to enjoy himself on the ,vasari4 ,he was very good company1 and full of quaint ,yankee tales and reminiscences4 ,i recall one of his stories about a man who thought he could draw1 and used #agh to send his sketches to the editor of a picture-paper whom he knew4 ,meeting his friend one day1 he asked him why his contributions were never used4 ,well1 the fact is1 said the editor1 ,i have an aunt living in ,noo ,jersey1 who can knit better pictures than yours6 ,on ,may #a my friend ,father ,caton and ,i1 desirous of seeing something of one important element of the heterogeneous population of ,s4 ,paulo1 witnessed a procession of ,garibaldians on their way to inaugurate a statue of their hero in one of the public gardens4 ,a sinister crowd they were1 members of some fifty ,italian clubs and associations here1 ,socialist1 masonic1 revolutionary and anti-,christian1 whose gods are ,mazzini1 ,carducci1 and their like4 ,round the statue was gathered a mass of their countrymen--some ten or twelve thousand at least1 mostly ,calabrians of a low type1#i who greeted with frantic applause a hysterical oration1 with the usual denunciations of ,popes and priests and kings1 from a fanatical firebrand called ,olavo ,bilac4 ,a humiliating spectacle on a ,may-day ,sunday in the ,catholic capital of a ,catholic ,state2 but a large proportion of these ,italian immigrants were in truth the scum of their own country and of ,christendom4 ,our abbot1 whose zeal and charity extended to all nationalities in this cosmopolitan city1 had established1 with the help of some ,brazilian ladies1 a free night-school for the crowds of little shoeblacks and newspaper-sellers1 practically all ,italians4 ,he preached at their periodical ,first ,communion festivals1 entertained them afterwards to a joyful breakfast 7at which ,i #agi sometimes assisted with much pleasure71 and did his best to keep in touch with them as they grew up4 ,i remember a great ,italian audience 7of the better sort7 in our college hall one evening1 witnessing with delighted enthusiasm three little plays1 one in ,portuguese and two in ,italian1 acted extremely well by a troupe of the abbot's young ,italian proteges4 ,with all his charitable efforts1 he could never1 of course1 touch more than the fringe of the question2 but he never wearied of urging on the ecclesiastical authorities--nay1 he had the opportunity at least once of forcibly representing to the ,pope himself--the paramount necessity of some organised effort to evangelise these uninstructed masses of ,italians who were annually pouring into the country4 ,no one realised better than he did that united and fervent prayer was at least as powerful a factor as pastoral labour in the work of ,christianisation which he had so greatly at heart2 and it was therefore with special joy that he saw at this time the fruition of a scheme for which he had long been hoping1 the establishment in ,s4 ,paulo of a community of enclosed nuns of our own ,order4 ,i spent some interesting hours with him visiting1 with the chosen architect1 various possible sites for the new foundation in and about the city4 ,that matter settled1 the rest soon followed2 and he had the happiness of seeing the foundation-stone of the new monastery laid in ,may1 #aiaa1 and six months later1 the inauguration of community life and the ,divine ,office1 under ,prioress ,cecilia ,prado4 ,the first week in ,may brought us news of the alarming illness of ,edward ,,vii41 and twenty-four hours later of his death4 ,the universal and #ahj spontaneous tributes to his memory in this foreign city were very remarkable3 everywhere flags flying half-mast1 and many shops and business houses closed4 ,the newspaper articles were all most sympathetic in tone1 with 7of course7 any number of quaint mis-spellings4 ,the ,archbishop of ,canter ,cury figured in several paragraphs2 but ,i could never make out what was meant by one statement1 viz41 that the ,king was successivamente alumno de ,trinity1 ,oxford1 e de ,preoun ,hall1 ,cambridge1 and that he possessed intimate technical knowledge of the construction of fortresses4 ,the abbot and ,i called at the ,british ,consulate to express our condolence2 and a large congregation 7including many ,protestants7 attended mass and my sermon at ,s4 ,bento a ,sunday or two later1 it having been understood that there would be a pulpit reference to the national loss4 ,the ,prefect of the city was present1 and called personally on me later to express his own sympathy and that of the municipality of ,s4 ,paulo4 ,funeral services in this ,latin-,american capital were not1 as a rule1 very edifying functions4 ,i attended1 with the ,rector of our college1 the obsequies of an aged1 wealthy and pious lady1 ,dona ,veridiana ,prado4 ,a carriage and pair of fat white horses were sent to take us to her house1 where there was a great concourse of friends and relatives2 but neither there nor in the cemetery afterwards was there much sign of mourning1 or even of respect1 and not a tenth part of those present paid the slightest attention to the actual burying of the poor lady4 ,we walked afterwards through the great ,consolacao cemetery1 which struck me as having little that was #aha consoling about it4 ,it was well kept1 and the monuments were--expensive1 the majority of white marble1 but with far too many semi-nude weeping female figures1 apparently nymphs or muses3 inscriptions from ,vergil1 ,camoens1 etc41 and such sentiments as ,death is an eternal sleep1 and ,an everlasting farewell from devoted friends4 ,the most remarkable tomb ,i noticed was a tribute to an eminent hat-maker--a large relief in bronze representing a hat-factory in full blast6 ,much more consoling than the funeral of poor ,dona ,veridiana was the general manifestation of faith and devotion on the festival of ,corpus ,christi4 ,all business was suspended for the day 7although it was not a state holiday72 and when our procession emerged from the church and passed slowly along one side of our busy square1 ,i was pleased and edified to see how every head in the great expectant crowd was bared1 and all1 from cab-drivers1 motor-men and police down to street arabs1 preserved1 during the passing of the ,santissimo1 the same air of hushed and reverent attention4 ,it was a joy to feel1 as ,i felt then1 that these poor people1 whatever their defects or shortcomings1 possessed at least the crowning gift of faith4 ,a curious reason was given me by one of the clergy of the city for the unusual spirit of devotion at that time manifest among the people4 ,halley's ,comet was just then a conspicuous object1 blazing in the north-west sky4 ,the phenomenon1 so said my informant1 was very generally believed to portend the speedy end of the world--a belief which stimulated popular devotion1 and sent many spiritual laggards to their religious duties4 ,however that may have been1 a great deal of genuine popular #ahb piety there undoubtedly was in the big busy city4 ,it was not only at solemn functions on high festivals that our church was thronged by a silent and attentive crowd2 but ,sunday after ,sunday1 at every mass from dawn to noonday1 the far too scanty space was filled by an overflowing congregation1 while the ever-increasing number of communions gave evidence of the solid piety underlying their real love for the services and ceremonies of the ,church4 ,our abbot1 who returned to us from ,europe on the morrow of ,king ,edward's death1 had almost immediately to leave again for ,rio1 where our brethren of ,s4 ,bento there were being fiercely attacked in the public press4 ,the ,french subprior in charge had not only refused leave to the ,government to connect the ,isle of ,cobras 7an important military station7 with the mainland1 i4e4 with ,st4 ,benedict's ,mount1 on which our abbey stood1 but had revived an old claim of ownership to the ,isle itself4 ,very imprudent1 thought ,abbot ,miguel1 who knew well the risk of the old parrot-cry of frades estrangeiros 7foreign monks7 being revived against us1 and also shrewdly surmised that the young superior was more or less in the hands of astute advogados1 who 7after the manner of their tribe7 were spoiling for a fight1 and scenting big fees and profits for themselves if it came to litigation4 ,dom ,miguel left us quite resolved1 with the robust common-sense characteristic of him1 to meet the attacks of the newspapers1 interview the ,papal ,nuncio1 and 7if necessary7 the ,president of the ,republic himself1 talk over the subprior1 and give the lawyers a bit of his mind2 and he did it all very effectually6 ,when he returned a few #ahc days later1 the advocates had been sent to the right-about1 all claims had been waived 7or withdrawn7 to the ,isle and the ,marine ,arsenal between our abbey and the sea1 which was also in dispute3 the ,president and his advisers had expressed their satisfaction with the patriotism and public spirit of the monks3 the ,nuncio had sealed the whole transaction with the ,pontifical approval3 the hostile press was silenced2 and1 in a word1 the incident was closed--and a very good thing too6 ,among the fresh activities consequent on the new regime at ,fort ,augustus was the contemplated reopening of our abbey school1 which had been closed for some years2 and there was1 ,i understood1 some desire that ,i should return home with a view of undertaking the work of revival4 ,i ventured to express the hope that the task might be entrusted to a younger man2 and ,abbot ,miguel had1 whilst in ,europe1 begged that ,i might be permitted to remain on in ,s4 ,paulo for at least another year4 ,these representations had their due effect2 and ,i was looking forward contentedly to a further sojourn under the ,southern ,cross1 when the matter was taken out of our hands by a serious affection of the eyesight which threatened me with partial or total blindness4 ,there were plenty of oculists in ,s4 ,paulo2 and after they had peered and pried and peeped and tapped and talked to their hearts' content1 generally ending up with ,paciencia6 come again to-morrow6 the youngest and most capable of them diagnosed 7quite correctly1 as it turned out71 a rather obscure1 unusual and interesting ailment--interesting1 bien entendu1 to the oculists1 not to the patient--which necessitated more or less drastic #ahd treatment4 ,by the advice of my friend the ,consul 7himself a medical man of repute#aj71 and with the concurrence of the abbot1 ,i determined that the necessary treatment should be undergone not in ,brazil but at home4 ,hasty preparations for departure1 and the inevitable leave-takings1 fully occupied the next fortnight4 ,i found time1 however1 to attend an exciting football match1 the winning of which by our college team gave them the coveted championship of the ,s4 ,paulo schools4 ,the game had taken a wonderful hold of the ,brazilian youth within the past few years1 very much to their physical and moral benefit2 and many of these youngsters1 light of foot and quick of eye1 shaped into uncommonly good players4 ,they had plenty of pluck too3 in the last few minutes of the match of which ,i have been speaking one of our best players1 a lively pleasant youth with a face like a ,neapolitan fisher-boy's1 had the misfortune to fall with his right arm under him1 and broke it badly4 ,he bore the severe pain like a ,trojan2 and when ,i visited him next day1 though he confessed to a sleepless night1 laughingly made light of his injury4 ,his chief regret was being unable to join in the exodus of our hundred and fifty boarders1 who departed with much bustle and many cheers for their month's holiday4 ,their long three months' vacation was in the hot season1 from ,november to ,february4 #ahe ,a few1 who stayed with us for the winter holiday1 hailed from remote corners of the ,state1 and some from even farther afield1 from ,goyaz1 ,pernambuco1 or ,matto ,grosso4 ,two ,i remember whose homes were in far ,amazonas2 and it took them a much longer time to journey thither 7in ,brazilian territory all the time7 than it would have done to reach ,london or ,paris4 ,one never ceased to wonder at the amazing vastness of ,brazil1 and to speculate on what the future has in store for the country when it begins to find itself1 and seriously to develop its incomparable resources4 ,almost my last visit in ,s4 ,paulo was to the newly-appointed ,english clergyman1 whom ,i had met at a friend's house4 ,he entertained me hospitably at luncheon2 but whilst helping me to prawn mayonnaise begged me to say if ,i shared the official belief of my ,church that he and all ,protestants were irrevocably d----d4 ,i need not say that ,i evaded the question1 not deeming the moment propitious for a course of the ,catechism of the ,council of ,trent2 and we parted good friends4 ,on ,june #bh ,i left ,s4 ,paulo with many regrets1 wondering whether ,i should ever revisit the fair city and my kind friends1 of whom many mustered at the station1 according to the pleasant custom of the country1 to speed the parting traveller4 ,the rapid drop down the serra--it was my first trip on the wonderfully-engineered ,english ,railway1 which enjoys the profitable monopoly of carrying passengers and coffee 7especially coffee7 to the busy port of ,santos--was enjoyable and picturesque1 with glimpses1 between the frequent tunnels1 into deep wooded valleys1 the dark uniform green of the matto #ahf interspersed with the lovely azure and white blossoms of the graceful ,quaresma1 or ,lent tree 7,tibouchina gracilis71 one of the glories of the ,brazilian forest4 ,the kind prior of ,s4 ,bento at ,santos met me there1 and ,i rested for a while at his quaint and charming little priory1 perched high above the city on its flight of many steps1 and almost unchanged in appearance since its foundation two centuries and a half before1 though the buildings had1 ,i believe1 been restored early in the eighteenth century4 ,higher still1 and accessible only on foot1 stood the famous shrine or hermitage of ,our ,lady of ,montserrat1 served by our ,benedictine fathers ever since its foundation in #afee1 and a much-frequented place of pilgrimage4 ,i had a drive1 before going aboard my ship1 round the picturesque and prosperous little city1 the transformation of which1 since ,i passed by it in #ahif1 had been almost more rapid and astonishing than that of ,rio4 ,from a haunt of pestilence and death1 yearly subject to a devastating epidemic of yellow fever1 it had become a noted health-resort1 its unrivalled praia1 stretching for miles along the blue waves of the ,atlantic1 lined with modern hotels and charming villas standing in their own luxuriant gardens1 whither the fina flora of ,paulista society came down in summer with their families to enjoy the sea-bathing and the ocean breezes4 ,i was cordially welcomed on the ,araguaya1 a fine ship of over #aj1jjj tons1 by my old friend ,captain ,pope1 with whom ,i had made my first voyage to ,brazil nearly a quarter of a century before4 ,there was a full complement of passengers1 including 7at the captain's table with me7 ,sir ,john ,benn1 ex-chairman of the ,london ,county ,council and #ahg ,m4,p4 for ,devonport1 also ,canon ,valois de ,castro1 representative of ,s4 ,paulo in the ,federal ,parliament4 ,i landed at none of the ,brazilian ports1 the ascent and descent of steep companions1 sometimes in a heavy swell1 being hardly compatible with my semi-blind condition4 ,leaving ,pernambuco1 ,i looked rather wistfully at the unforgotten heights of ,olinda1 and wondered if ,i should ever see ,brazil's low green shores again4 ,sir ,john was my chief companion on deck3 he was a clever artist1 and kept me amused with his delightful sketches of famous ,parliamentarians--,disraeli1 ,gladstone1 ,r4 ,churchill1 ,redmond1 ,parnell1 ,hartington1 and many others--as well as of some of the more eccentric of our fellow-passengers4 ,at our table was an agreeable captain of the ,brazilian ,navy1 going to ,barrow-in-,furness to bring out their new ,dreadnought1 the ,sao ,paulo4 ,his #djj bluejackets were on board1 smartly dressed in ,british fashion2 but he confided to us that most of them were raw recruits1 and that some had never seen the sea till they boarded the ,araguaya6 ,as our voyage progressed he grew more and more distrait1 lost1 no doubt1 in speculation as to how he and his heterogeneous crew were ever going to get their big new battleship from ,barrow to ,rio4 ,i never heard how they got on4#aa ,at ,madeira ,i went ashore to see the ,consul 7,boyle1 a cousin of ,glasgow's7 and his pleasant wife1 sat for an hour with them enjoying the enchanting view1 and returned on board in company 7as ,i afterwards discovered7 with three professional card-sharpers1 who1 having been warned off ,madeira1 were returning more or less incog4 to ,england4 ,the last days of #ahh our voyage were made in a fog that never lifted--an anxious time for my friend the captain4 ,we never sighted ,ushant light at all1 and steamed far past ,cherbourg1 to which we had to return dead slow1 our dreary foghorn sounding continually all night long4 ,however1 it cleared quite suddenly1 and we raced across the ,channel in bright sunshine1 but reached ,southampton so late that a kind brother who had come down to meet me there had been obliged to return to ,london4 #a ,once quite unjustly--but that was not his fault1 for he acted only on information received4 ,this reminds me of ,mr4 ,gladstone's story of his schoolfellow ,arthur ,hallam 7of ,in ,memoriam fame74 ,hallam1 said ,w4 ,e4 ,g41 indulging in some ,etonian reminiscences at his own table when not far off ninety1 was a singularly virtuous boy2 but he was once flogged by ,dr4 ,keat1 though quite unjustly4 ,when we came into school one day1 the master1 ,mr4 ,knapp--7,he was a sad scoundrel1 and got into prison later1 the old gentleman added in parenthesis1 and ,i subscribed to relieve his necessities71--said at once1 ',praepostor1 put ,hallam's name in the bill for breaking my window4'--',please1 sir1 ,i never broke any window of yours1' cried ,hallam1 starting up4 ',praepostor1' said ,mr4 ,knapp1 'put ,hallam's name in the bill for lying1 and breaking my window4'--',upon my sacred word of honour1 sir1' said ,hallam1 jumping up again1 ',i never touched your window4' ,but ,mr4 ,knapp merely said1 ',praepostor1 put ,hallam's name in the bill for swearing1 and lying1 and breaking my window6' #b ,tom ,brown's ,school ,days 7ed4 #ahci71 pp4 #cgj1 #cga4 #c ,replaced in #aibj by a new and sonorous peal4 ,they still struck the quarters6 but anyhow in tune4 #d ,were the ,vanderbilts as great a power in the ,american railway and financial world in your time as they are now8 some one asked an ,englishman who had at one time spent some years in the ,united ,states4 ,no1 he replied2 ,i think when ,i was out there they were only ,vanderbuilding6 #e ,his quiet sojourn at ,st4 ,james's1 which he had himself built and inaugurated five years previously1 was a sadly short one4 ,i heard with deep regret of his death there on ,st4 ,benedict's1 ,day 7,march #ba7 of this year1 #aiaj4 #f ,see ante1 page #acj1 note4 #g ,this straining of the sight precipitated1 ,i think1 the affection of the eyes which was to prove so troublesome4 #h ,dickens1 ,martin ,chuzzlewit1 chap4 ix4 #i ,la creme de la guillotine1 as our ,parisian monk1 ,dom ,denis1 described them4 #aj ,the ,o',sullivan ,beare1 a graduate of ,dublin ,university1 had had an interesting career4 ,he had served in the ,egyptian ,war of #ahhe1 had been medical officer on the ,gold ,coast and at ,zanzibar1 a ,vice-consul in ,east ,africa1 engaged in the suppression of the slave-trade1 and later ,consul at ,bahia and ,s4 ,paulo4 ,he was ,consul-general at ,rio de ,janeiro during a great part of the ,european ,war4 ,col4 ,o',sullivan ,beare died in #aiba4 #aa ,see1 however1 post1 page #bjb4 #ahi ,,chapter ,,xi #aiaj-aiaa ,the first news that reached me on my landing at ,southampton on ,july #ag1 #aiaj1 was that my nephew1 ,alan ,boyle1 the intrepid young airman1 had been seriously hurt at ,bournemouth--not in the central blue1 but through the wheels of his ,avis catching in a clover-field4 ,his life had probably been saved by the chance of his having borrowed 7for he always as a rule flew bareheaded7 an inflated rubber cap from a friend just before the disaster2 but1 as it was1 his head was badly injured4#a ,after telegraphing sympathy and inquiries to the ,glasgows1 ,i went straight to ,london1 to interview doctor and oculist1 who both advised consultation with the famous ,wiesbaden specialist1 ,pagenstecher4 ,my brother and ,i accordingly left ,england next day1 staying a night at ,cologne to visit the ,cathedral1 which ,d4 had never seen1 and which1 marvellous as it is1 struck me once again as the most uninspired of all the great churches of ,europe4 ,we reached ,wiesbaden next evening2 and ,i was soon established #aij in the comfortable klinik devoted to the cosmopolitan clients of the great oculist4 ,our party included patients from ,america1 ,australia1 ,mexico and ,ceylon1 as well as from every country in ,europe1 and ,i found myself at table next to a wealthy ,catholic gentleman from ,yucatan1 who told me much about that little-known and marvellous country1 and gave me an album of most interesting photographs4 ,i had feared to be caged in a dark room1 but escaped this fate1 and was able to enjoy of an afternoon the excellent music in the ,kurhaus gardens4 ,the internal decorations of the ,kurhaus were too hideous for words2 but it stood charmingly among shady groves1 lakes and fountains1 and there were #cej newspapers in the huge rococo reading-room4 ,i had some pleasant walks with my new friend from ,yucatan--one to the top of the ,neroberg1 where we enjoyed a really magnificent prospect1 and partook of iced coffee and kirschen-kuechen in a rustic summerhouse4 ,another glorious view was from the ,greek ,chapel1 erected by a ,grand ,duke of ,nassau to the memory of his ,russian wife1 with an extraordinarily sumptuous and beautiful interior3 ,i was greatly struck by it1 though ,i could not help thinking that when the guide said it cost ,l#gjj1jjj he meant marks1 for it is of no great size4 ,meanwhile ,i continued the prescribed treatment 7unpleasant as it was7 at the hands of the eminent oculist1 a mysterious-seeming old gentleman who reminded me uncomfortably of ,uncle ,silas in ,le ,fanu's blood-curdling novel4 ,our party at the ,klinik was a remarkably cheerful one1 everybody seeming quite confident of being cured1 or at least greatly benefited4 ,personally1 ,i soon made up my mind #aia to the permanent loss of one eye 7even though1 as ,dickens remarked of ,mr4 ,squeers1 popular prejudice runs in favour of two72 and in this anticipation ,i was confirmed by the verdict of ,pagenstecher's clever son ,adolf1 a much more simpatico person than his distinguished parent4 ,anyhow ,i was out of the surgeons' hands 7for this relief much thanks671 and to celebrate my emancipation ,i dined at the ,kurhaus1 listened to the admirable ,doppel-,orchester 7it was an ,italian ,opera night1 recalling many memories71 witnessed the illuminations1 and felt quite dissipated4 ,i was cheered1 in the midst of these preoccupations1 by a very hopeful letter from my sister1 fortified by ,sir ,victor ,horsley's favourable prognosis of ,alan's case4#b ,interesting news1 too1 came from ,lady ,lovat 7doubly interesting to me7 that ,simon1 now nearly thirty-nine1 was engaged to my pretty young kinswoman ,laura ,lister4#c ,and on the same day ,i heard of the betrothal of a favourite niece to a brigadier-general1 with a command in ,west ,africa 7whither1 ,i imagine1 his bride could not accompany him71 and a little place in ,lincolnshire4 ,in both cases1 curiously enough1 the bridegroom-expectant was more than double the age of the bride-to-be2 but ,i saw no reason1 if they knew their own minds1 why this discrepancy should militate against their happiness4 ,bethinking myself that ,i had never yet gone down the ,rhine by water1 ,i boarded a steamer at ,biebrich1 #aib and steamed down the yellow turbid river for eight hours in mist and rain1 wishing all the time that ,i was in the train4 ,a female fellow-passenger introduced herself to me as a former governess of the ,glasgow children in the ,antipodes1 said she had lost her party and her purse1 and requested a small loan6 ,i spent two pleasant days at ,cologne 7,sunday and the festa of ,august #ae next day71 was edified by the immense and devout congregations and the beautiful music in the vast cathedral1 and pleased to see the simple holiday-making of the good ,rhinelanders in their pretty river-side gardens4 ,brussels1 my next halting-place1 was crammed with visitors to the ,exhibition1 or rather to the smoking ruins of what had been the exhibition1 the greater part of which had been burned down the night before my arrival4 ,i walked through the cheerful city1 of which the only new feature 7to me7 was the colossal ,palace of ,justice1 which seemed to dominate ,brussels as the heaven-piercing spires of the ,dom dominate ,cologne2 but the gigantic mass of the ,brussels building seemed rather to be heaven-defying1 and too suggestive of the ,tower of ,babel to please me4 ,letters at ,brussels told me of the long-hoped-for arrival of ,kelburn's son and heir1 godson to ,queen ,mary 7her first since the ,king's accession74 ,he was named ,maurice at the special wish of ,her ,majesty1 who 7so ,i understood7 was possessed with the odd idea that ,maurice was the masculine equivalent for ,mary6 ,crossing from ,ostend to ,dover1 ,i encountered a well-known ,scottish peer of whose demise ,i had read in an ,english paper two days before4 ,he was on his way home from visiting the ,passion-play at ,ober ,ammergau1 had seen no papers1 #aic and had been surprised1 and rather annoyed1 at receiving letters and telegrams at ,brussels congratulating him on being still alive4 ,i cheered him up with a story of another man who saw his death announced in the morning papers1 and calling up an intimate friend on the telephone1 said1 ,did you see in this morning's paper that ,i was dead8 ,yes1 replied his friend1 ,i did4 ,where are you speaking from8 ,when ,i got to ,london1 the same kind brother who had escorted me to ,wiesbaden took me 7by way of consolation for my wasted month#d7 to lunch--on turtle soup and punch--at the ,ship and ,turtle in the ,city4 ,after a flying visit to my kind friends at ,arundel and to my sister in ,surrey1 ,i came back to stay with him at his elm-shaded ,thames-side home4 ,we made some pleasant expeditions thence by land and water1 motoring one day to quaint old ,guildford1 where we explored ,archbishop ,abbott's delightfully picturesque old ,jacobean almshouses1 and drank tea in an almost equally picturesque tea-shop1 kept1 ,i was carefully informed1 by real ladies6 ,my pretty niece ,cicely insisted on my presence at her wedding to her ,brigadier2 and ,i journeyed down to ,kent1 on a piping ,august day1 in the company of crowds of ,irish hoppers bound for the same county4 ,the marriage was from the ,cranbrooks' nice place1 ,hemsted1 in the very heart of the ,garden of ,england1 a big ,victorian house full of the first ,earl's#e memorials of ,queen ,victoria1 ,beaconsfield1 #aid and the other great ,tory statesmen of his day4 ,lady ,jane ,gathorne-,hardy did the honours for the large house-party1 as her parents were away taking a cure somewhere2 and the day after the pretty wedding in the pretty parish church 7the vicar1 an old ,magdalen man1 gave a very good address71 our kind hostess escorted the whole party up to town and entertained them to luncheon and a frivolous afternoon at the ,follies4 ,i left ,london the same night for ,scotland1 and met at ,beaufort1 where ,i stayed en route1 for our ,highland abbey1 ,lovat's youthful bride-elect--as tall1 and ,i am sure as good1 as the lady in ,the ,green ,carnation1#f and already an accepted and affectionate member of the large and merry family of ,frasers and ,maxwells4 ,i sailed down our familiar canal to ,fort ,augustus on a marvellously still and bright autumn afternoon2 and as we slid alongside the ,fort ,augustus quay and looked back on the panorama of azure lake and purple hills1 a friend and ,i agreed 7as he colloquially put it7 that it licked the ,rhine into fits4 ,i found things externally little changed under the new1 or restored1 ,anglo-,benedictine regime1 the chief visible difference being that my brethren now wore the flapping ,english hood1 which gave them rather the aspect of large nuns4 ,there was much coming and going to and from missions and #aie locum-tenancies of vacant parishes2 and our house seemed destined to become more and more a jumping-off place for that kind of work rather than a great centre of monastic life and observance4 ,one aim was not of course incompatible with the other1 given a large enough community2 but ours was at this time small enough1 and there were several more or less permanent absentees4 ,most of the latter1 however1 rolled up for the excellent retreat given us by our good old friend ,bishop ,hedley1 who had done us the same kindness just twenty-one years before4 ,he was interested1 after it was over1 in hearing of our plans and hopes 7then much in the air7 for re-starting the suspended building of our much-needed church1 of which the foundation-stone had been laid nearly fifteen years previously4 ,a young architect 7an old boy of the abbey school7 was staying with us1 and quite prepared to produce the most fascinating designs at the shortest notice4 ,but money1 or the lack of it1 was1 as usual1 the crucial point2 and we did not see our way 7horrid phrase7 to resume operations either then or in the immediate future4 ,i went1 in these golden ,october days1 when a wonderful stillness so often broods over ,highland hills and glens in their livery of autumnal russet1 to do chaplain for two ,sundays to the ,lovats1 who had a large shooting-party at ,beaufort--,seftons and ,howicks and ,gathorne-,hardys and some others1 including an ,a4,d4,c4 to the ,irish ,viceroy1 of whom he told me a good story4 ,an old peer from the country presented himself at a levee at ,dublin ,castle2 and his ,excellency engaged him in conversation1 starting as usual with the weather4 #aif ,wonderful rain we've been having3 everything coming up out of the ground4--,god forbid6 said the old peer4 ,i said that everything was coming up out of the ground1 repeated ,h4,e41 slightly raising his voice4 ,and ,i said ',god forbid6' retorted the old gentleman3 ,i've got three wives buried under it6 ,i went from ,beaufort for a day or two to ,nairn1 which ,i remember hardly more than a poor fishing village1 frequented by ladies and children for sea-bathing1 but which owes its present reputation and prosperity1 like so many other places1 to its excellent golf-links4 ,after a short stay at ,kelburn1 where ,i found my poor nephew ,alan ,boyle making good progress to recovery1 ,i could not resist an invitation to pass a few days at ,st4 ,andrews1 where the successor of my dear friend ,george ,angus was anxious for me to see his new church lately opened4 ,it was a rather effective building1 in what a descriptive report called the ,lombardic style1 adapted to suit local conditions4 ,one of the adaptations was putting the tower at the wrong end1 the local condition being that the lady who had built the church1 and who inhabited a villa close by1 had objected to a western tower as blocking her view of the ,north ,sea6 ,i strolled about the dear romantic town1 mounting the ,east ,neuk road as far as ,rest and be thankful1 and feeling heavy-hearted enough1 with ,tennyson's lines constantly in my mind3 ,i climb the hill from end to end3 ,of all the landscape underneath1 ,i find no place that does not breathe ,some gracious memory of my friend4 #aig ,for each has pleased a kindred eye1 ,and each reflects a happier day2 ,and leaving them to pass away1 ,i think once more he seems to die4 ,i came home from my last walk by the old harbour1 admiring1 as ,i had done a hundred times before1 the wonderful lights on sea and land which one associates with ,st4 ,andrews in autumn2 but feeling that ,i never cared to see the place again4 ,soon ,i went south1 to ,oxford1 where ,mgr4 ,kennard1 who was again threatening for the nth time to resign1 for reasons of health1 his office of chaplain1 had begged me to come and help him for as much of the ,michaelmas term as ,i could spare4 ,i found him1 as a matter of fact1 rather exceptionally well1 and ready and anxious to recount to an intelligent listener 7which ,i fear ,i was not1 on this subject7 every one of his golfing achievements during the past four months at ,burnham1 ,westward ,ho6 ,north ,berwick1 and elsewhere4 ,although quite incapable of talking golf shop1 ,i contributed one anecdote 7new1 ,i believed71 which ,i had brought from ,nairn1 and which pleased my old friend4 ,it concerned a young man and maiden who were playing golf--the lady quite a novice--and had reached a hole which was on the top of a little hill4 ,the youth ran up first to see the lie of the balls4 ,a stymie6 he shouted3 a dead stymie6 ,the young lady came up with a sniff4 ,well1 do you know8 she said1 ,i thought ,i smelled something as ,i was walking up the hill6 ,i had been invited to preach ,lovat's wedding sermon on ,october #ae2 but this1 as well as much of the long choral service1 had been countermanded #aih at the eleventh hour4 ,i went up the day before to the family residence in ,grosvenor ,gardens3 presents still pouring in1 and such unconsidered trifles as diamond pendants1 silver salvers1 gold cigarette-cases1 telescopes1 and illuminated addresses1 lying promiscuously about4 ,a small army of newspaper-reporters 7whom ,i was deputed to interview7 swarmed in after dinner4 ,there was a great gathering at the ,oratory next morning1 where the ample space beneath the dome makes a most effective setting for a wedding pageant4 ,the bride's procession was a little late2 and the stalwart bridegroom1 supported by his ,scots ,guards brother1 was 7shall ,i say the cynosure of all eyes or the observed of all observers8--both good old cliches7 in the full dress bravery of a ,highland chief4#g ,i went in afterwards to sign the register1 while the primo soprano assoluto of the famous choir thrilled out the ,bach-,gounod ,ave ,maria1 as inevitable an accompaniment of ,oratory weddings as ,o for the ,wings of a ,dove is of those at ,sloane ,street or ,eaton ,square4 ,mrs4 ,asquith 7the bride's aunt7 entertained us afterwards in the none too spacious reception rooms at #aj1 ,downing ,street1 where the well-dressed mob1 more suo1 made play with their elbows in their quest for their own and other people's presents on the loaded tables4 ,there were representatives from the bride's home in ,ribblesdale1 as well as a deputation of farmers from distant ,beaufort2 #aii and one heard intermittently the broad accent of ,lancashire and the slow soft ,highland speech1 mingling oddly with the ,london cackle4 ,the festivities at an end1 ,i escorted a party of youthful ,maxwells to the ,zoo4 ,we saw a much-bored tiger1 which gaped at us most rudely2 also a greatly vaunted ,american aloe1 of the blooming-once-in-a-hundred-years kind1 which we all thought a fraud4 ,i had planned to finish while at ,oxford my greatly belated work for the ,encyclopaedia1 but was 7perhaps unduly7 mortified to find how much my progress was impeded by my altered conditions of eyesight4 ,let me1 however1 record here1 pour encourager les autres similarly handicapped1 that the initial difficulty of focussing 7very serious and very discouraging at first to a one-eyed man7 tends to disappear not only quickly but completely4 ,un poco paciencia1 as we say in ,brazil2 kind ,mother ,nature steps in with her compensations1 and one can only feel grateful--,i hope and believe that ,i did--at suffering so little from what seems1 and after all is1 so serious a privation4 ,two of ,lovat's nephews were now undergraduates at ,trinity1 ,cambridge1 whither ,i went over to see them from ,oxford4 ,they gave me luncheon in their quaint low-ceiled rooms in ,trinity ,street1 took me to see their sister 7a pupil in a convent school71 and escorted me over some of the lions1 wanting to know at every turn whether ,i did not admit that ,cambridge was infinitely superior to ,oxford4 ,i handsomely owned that we possessed nothing quite so fine1 in their different ways1 as ,king's ,chapel1 the famous backs1 and the ,fitzwilliam ,museum #bjj 7to say nothing of the ,catholic church72 and they were both pleased at this tribute1 though it must be confessed that the absorbing interest of their lives at that period seemed less to be architectural masterpieces than the internal mechanism of motor-bicycles1 about which they1 in common with many of their undergraduate friends1 appeared to be quite curiously infatuated4 ,i went on from ,cambridge 7an insufferably tedious journey7 to ,douai ,abbey1 our ,berkshire monastery1 where one was always sure of a welcome of ,benedictine heartiness1 and where ,i gave a lantern-lecture on ,brazil1 of a popular and superficial kind1 to the good monks and their pupils4 ,this reminds me that1 as a supposed authority on negroes 7many ,englishmen1 ,i firmly believe1 are under the impression that the population of ,brazil is almost exclusively black671 ,i was invited by my friend the ,warden of ,wadham to meet the ,master of ,pembroke at dinner1 in order to discuss the advisability or otherwise of admitting black1 brown and yellow men freely into the university4 ,the ,warden 7a ,scotsman who had never1 ,i think1 been out of ,britain7 was all in favour of the open door2 whereas the little ,master of ,pembroke1 who had been bishop of ,barbadoes1 and knew a thing or two about blacks1 was strongly for the keep 'em out policy1 and ,i was entirely with him4 ,we had an interesting evening's talk2 but the solution of this not unimportant question 7which the foundation of the ,rhodes ,scholarships had brought much to the front7 did not of course rest with us4 ,the mention of ,rhodes reminds me that a conspicuous memorial tablet had lately been erected to him in the ,schools3 the design was good and simple1 but the lettering of the inscription 7as #bja is too often the case on modern monuments7 so deplorably bad as to spoil the whole effect4#h ,walking through ,magdalen cloisters on a sombre ,november afternoon1 ,i came unexpectedly on the poor young ,king 7or ex-,king7 of ,portugal1 who was looking through the college with a single companion4 ,he looked 7who could wonder7#i pale1 depressed and nervous2 and ,i was shocked at the change in his appearance since ,i had seen him at ,blenheim on the occasion of his previous visit to ,england4 ,professor ,oman 7who had been his guest in ,portugal for the anniversary celebrations at ,busaco7 met him1 ,i believe1 accidentally in ,high ,street1 and showed him all over ,all ,souls and the ,bodleian2 but ,i heard that his listless and apathetic demeanour underwent little change4 ,to be a ,roi en exil almost before reaching man's estate is about as dreary a lot as could fall to any man2 and one could only hope that fate had something better in prospect for the young monarch so early and so tragically dethroned4 ,i got to ,ampleforth ,abbey1 on my way north1 in time for our great ,benedictine festival of ,all ,saints of our ,order2 but the sweet vale of ,mowbray was wrapt in mist and rain1 and the boys' holiday spoilt4 ,i gave a lecture to them that evening on the lighter side of ,brazil1 with stories of snakes and niggers2 and another next evening on the work of #bjb the religious orders1 especially our ,benedictines1 in the evangelization of that vast country4 ,i lectured in the new college theatre1 a really fine room1 and acoustically very satisfactory1 though ,i did not care for the semi-ecclesiastical woodwork4 ,when ,i got back to ,fort ,augustus a few days later1 ,i found ,lovat1 ,lochiel1 and other local magnates there1 discussing the fate of our poor little railway1 which the ,n4,b4 ,company1 tired of working it at a loss for several years1 had given notice to close after ,new ,year4#aj ,two pieces of news reached me soon after my arrival--one that ,congregation at ,oxford had declined1 by a good majority1 to abolish compulsory ,greek2 the other that the ,brazilian ,navy was in full revolt1 and the crews of their two new ,dreadnoughts 7one the ,sao ,paulo1 whose captain and crew had come to ,england with me7 were firing their big guns from the harbour into the city6 ,i could only hope that our poor abbey1 which must have been in the direct line of fire1 had not suffered4#aa ,my own plans were almost matured for returning to ,brazil early in #aiaa2 but it seemed prudent now to wait and see if this naval emeute really portended anything like a general revolution4 ,meanwhile ,i had been authorized to accept an invitation from the ,norfolks to stay with them at ,norwich1 for the opening of the great church which had been many years a-building1 at the ,duke's expense1 in his #bjc titular city4 ,he had taken the ,maid's ,head1 a delightful old half-timbered inn1 for our party1 which pretty well filled it4 ,i said an early mass on ,our ,lady's festa1 ,december #h1 in the lady-chapel 7a memorial of the ,duke's first wife71#ab of the vast1 austere1 and splendid church--the only modern church in which ,i have ever felt as if ,i were in a mediaeval cathedral4 ,breakfasting afterwards with the clergy--mostly ,irish--the news of ,ninian ,crichton ,stuart's victory at ,cardiff#ac 7which came to us by wire7 was a bit of a bombshell2 but the ,maid's ,head party were of course delighted4 ,the inaugural services were very splendid1 though unduly prolonged by a sermon an hour long2 and though for once there was no after-luncheon oratory1 the bishop preached for another full hour in the evening4 ,the tediousness of my long journey back to ,scotland next day was aggravated by an amateur politician 7with a wheezy cough7 in my carriage1 who bored me almost to tears with a rechauffe of his speeches at various election-meetings2 but ,i consoled myself by reading in an evening paper that the ,unionist candidate for ,ayr had increased his majority five-fold4 ,at ,edinburgh ,i came on my energetic old brother-in-law ,glasgow1 who had come in from ,ayrshire 7he was then not far off seventy-eight7 to dine at a naval banquet and to vote for the ,representative ,peers4 ,i went for the week-end to the ,kerrs at ,woodburn1 meeting #bjd there a serious young publisher1 who offered me very good terms to write a detailed history--it has never yet been written--of ,scottish ,catholicism since the ,reformation3 a fascinating subject1 and one with which ,i should have loved to grapple1 but life is too short to do all1 or even half1 that one would like to do4 ,with an hour or two to spare in ,glasgow on my way to the ,highlands1 ,i lunched with my friend 7the friendship was personal1 not political7 the editor of the ,observer1 at his ,radical ,club4 ,in the middle of the meal a member rose with a long face1 and announced an unexpected ,unionist victory at ,tavistock--whereat1 to the consternation of every one1 ,i cheered loudly6 ,i reached ,fort ,augustus the same evening1 to learn of the death1 at the advanced age of ninety-three1 of our kind old friend and neighbour ,mrs4 ,ellice of ,invergarry1 one of the last of the great landladies who a few years before had by a curious coincidence owned and managed 7very capably1 too7 some of the largest estates in the ,north of ,scotland4 ,the vast ,glengarry property1 once the domain of the ,macdonells1 and stretching from the ,caledonian ,canal to the western seaboard1 had been under ,mrs4 ,ellice's sole control since her husband's death more than thirty years before4 ,we at ,fort ,augustus1 as well as the numerous ,highland ,catholics resident on her estate1 and under our spiritual care1 had always found in her a most friendly1 kind and considerate neighbour4 ,two happenings ,i recall at ,fort ,augustus during these ,december days--one a remarkably interesting lecture on the theory of lake-temperature from a ,mr4 ,wedderburn1 who had been recently on the #bje ,scottish loch survey2 and the other event was our all 7that is1 all the priests of the monastery7 being called on to vow1 promise1 swear and sign1 individually and collectively1 our adherence to the ,creed of ,pope ,pius ,,iv41 which ,i had sworn to some thirty-six years before4#ad ,this act of submission1 enjoined on every ,catholic priest in ,christendom1 was part of the vigorous campaign against ,modernism initiated by ,pope ,pius ,x4 ,having discharged this duty1 ,i betook myself to ,keir1 to spend ,christmas with the ,stirlings4 ,it was a family party1 including the ,lovats and a few others1 and we spent the season in homely ,dickens fashion1 with ghost-stories and snapdragon and a priceless ,early ,victorian conjurer in a crumpled dress suit1 who accompanied tricks of really incredible antiquity with a patter almost prehistoric4 ,one day we drove down to survey the grand old cathedral of ,dunblane1 very carefully restored 7of course for ,presbyterian worship7 since ,i had last seen it4 ,as we entered1 we heard the opening strains of ,elgar's ,ave ,verum-- ,illustration3 ,music fragment3 ,ave verum cor-pus na-tum ,ex ,ma-ri-a ,vir-gi-ne6 etc4 7a ,eucharistic hymn by a ,catholic composer67 being played on a fine organ1 and wondered what old ,john ,knox would have thought about it all4 ,meanwhile the ,catholics of ,dunblane1 a devout and fervent little flock 7so ,i was told71 had perforce to content themselves with a poor loft1 where ,i preached #bjf to them on two ,sundays4 ,at ,stirling1 not far distant1 there was a new church designed by ,pugin--a rather dismal and angular edifice1 but anyhow spacious and well kept4 ,on my return journey to ,fort ,augustus1 ,i found myself condemned1 by the unholy rivalry of the ,caledonian and ,north ,british ,railways1 to a four hours' wait at ,crianlarich1 where ,i found the temperature1 on a frosty ,january morning1 quite as invigorating as did the fabled tourist4#ae ,i had a few busy days at the abbey preparing for my return to ,south ,america4 ,my passage was booked for the middle of ,january3 ,i had devoted a week to farewells to relatives and friends--and then came the anti-climax6 ,on the very day on which 7like the poor ,sisters of ,mercy7 ,i was to have breasted the billows of the ,atlantic#af en route for ,brazil1 ,i received so discouraging and peremptory a letter from my ,london oculist1 as to the risk to my remaining eye of a possibly stormy winter voyage1 that ,i had perforce to abandon the idea1 and to return 7like the bad sixpence of poor ,grissell's story7#ag to my #bjg northern monastery1 where ,i received so brotherly a welcome home that ,i did not1 after the first disappointment1 regret the change of plan4 ,i was inducted again into my old office of librarian 7first entrusted to me twenty-seven years before72 and our young organist having gone into residence at the ,benedictine ,hall at ,oxford1 ,i acted for a time as his substitute4 ,the post of subprior being presently vacated by the departure of the then holder of the office for a ,liverpool mission1 that also was committed to me2 and as our good prior was at this time to some extent invalided1 ,i found myself pretty fully occupied1 more especially as ,i had in those days a curiously cosmopolitan correspondence 7much of it on literary or antiquarian matters71 which could not be neglected4 ,i recall receiving by a single mail 7on ,st4 ,benedict's ,day1 as it chanced71 letters from ,india1 ,north ,america1 ,brazil1 ,egypt1 ,germany1 ,belgium1 ,italy1 and ,soudan6 #a ,alan1 the ,glasgows' youngest son1 had taken up flying most enthusiastically1 living in a shed at ,brooklands 7his mechanic acting as his cook71 and practising continually with his ,avis monoplane1 which1 like himself1 was of purely ,scottish origin4 ,he had been the third flying-man to gain an aero-certificate on a machine of ,british design and build4 #b ,my nephew's recovery was slow and tedious2 but he was ultimately restored to health4 #c ,her grandmother1 ,emma ,lady ,ribblesdale 7born a ,mure of ,caldwell7 was my father's first cousin4 #d ,the word seems ungrateful3 the time was not really wasted1 for ,i had done my best and knew the worst1 and the suspense was anyhow over4 #e ,gathorne ,hardy1 who turned ,gladstone out of his seat for ,oxford ,university in #ahfe1 and was afterwards successively ,home ,secretary and ,secretary for ,war and for ,india4 ,his grandson the third ,earl 7my nephew by marriage7 broke away from the ,tory traditions of the family1 sold ,hemsted ,park to one of the ,harmsworths1 and set up a new home for himself in ,suffolk4 #f ,i believe she is very tall and very religious--if you notice1 it is generally short1 squat people who are atheists4--,the ,green ,carnation4 #g ,possibly the last spectacle of the kind at the ,oratory 7but that was in the old tin church7 had been the apparition of the youthful ,earl of ,loudoun in ,campbell tartan kilt and philabeg1 acting as best man to his cousin ,lord ,bute on the latter's memorable wedding-day1 ,april #af1 #ahgb4 #h ,the stonemason of to-day imitates 7usually very badly1 and with deplorable result7 the printing of a book1 not in the least realizing that a lapidary inscription is something quite different from a sentence struck off movable metal types4 #i ,it was hardly a month since the ,revolution of ,october #c1 #aiaj1 had driven the unfortunate youth from the uneasy throne which he had occupied since the cruel murder of his father and brother1 in the streets of ,lisbon1 on ,february #a1 #aijh4 #aj ,the negotiations resulted in a respite for six months1 after which financial arrangements of some kind were made for keeping the line open for the future4 #aa ,it was1 as a matter of fact1 considerably damaged3 moreover1 one of the shells fired by the insurgents not only inflicted serious injury on the ,prior1 ,dom ,joachim de ,luna1 but blew the poor tailor of the monastery into atoms4 #ab ,artistically reminiscent of ,duchess ,flora were the elaborate carvings in this chapel1 conventional but very charming representations of ,english wild flowers4 #ac ,a ,general ,election--,peers v4 ,people1 as the ,radicals called it--was at this time in progress4 ,ninian's election for ,cardiff came as a considerable surprise to the ,liberals1 as well as a triumph to the ,unionists4 #ad ,when ,i escaped from the ,city of ,confusion into the ,church of ,god1 at ,rome1 on ,march #be1 #ahge4 #ae ,isn't this invigorating8 exclaimed an ,english traveller1 as he emerged from his stuffy carriage early on a breezy ,august day4 ,no1 sir1 said the stolid ,highland station-master3 it's just ,crianlarich6 #af ,in ,may1 #ahdb1 ,sisters ,ursula1 ,frances1 and ,rose left the parent-house for the ,far ,west--the first ,sisters of ,mercy who had ever breasted the billows of the ,atlantic4--,annals of the ,sisters of ,mercy1 vol4 ,,iii41 p4 #af4 ,it really reads as though the good nuns had swum across6 #ag ,in ,italy1 he said to me once1 one is welcomed back with an embrace and a cordial ',ben ritornato1 signore6' but coming back here to ,oxford1 ,i call to pay my respects to the good ,jesuit ,fathers2 and the old brother who opens the door only grumbles out1 ',well1 ,mr4 ,grissell1 here you are1 back again1 like sixpenn'orth of bad halfpennies6' #bjh ,,chapter ,,xii #aiaa ,our brothers had good success this year with the spring salmon-netting in ,loch ,ness2 and ,i myself witnessed the landing one afternoon of nine clean fish1 all scaling between fifteen and thirty pounds4 ,we had always enjoyed the privilege of netting a certain number of salmon during ,lent2 and ,i think it was this year that ,lovat proposed1 at a meeting of the syndicate of riparian owners and tenants who had recently assumed the control of the fishing1 that this right should be conceded to us as heretofore4 ,it was agreed to with but one dissentient voice1 that of a rather cantankerous neighbour of ours who was only1 ,i believe1 an honorary member of the syndicate1 having pleaded that he was too poor to pay his subscription4 ,certainly1 said a noble duke who had leased for some years the best spring water in the vicinity2 by all means let the poor monks 7or was it poor devils87 have their salmon3 it's probably all they get to eat6 ,lovat was kind enough to tell me1 when he came down about this salmon-fishing question1 that he and others 7unnamed7 were pulling strings in various quarters to get me appointed chaplain at ,oxford in succession to our dear old ,kennard1 who 7after numerous unheeded cries of ,wolf67 was1 #bji it seemed1 really resigning1 and preparing to retire for life to a dull seaside town in ,somerset4 ,i told him1 however1 that ,i was sure there was no chance of any monk or other regular being appointed3 moreover ,i had heard that a priest hailing from ,brighton1 with the patent and obvious qualification of possessing ,l#a1jjj a year of his own1 had been already chosen2 and1 finally1 ,i hoped and expected to be allowed to return to ,brazil1 unless ,i received some very clear and unmistakable indication that ,i was more wanted at home4 ,meanwhile the work immediately in front of me was organizing the ,bishop ,hay centenary celebrations1 which were to be kept at our abbey in the autumn on a considerable scale1 and of which ,i had been named general secretary4 ,before tackling this business ,i was enabled to spend ,holy ,week and ,easter1 as so often before1 happily at ,arundel1 where my visit this year coincided with the anniversary of ,duchess ,mora's death4 ,i officiated at the memorial service for her in the ,fitz,alan chapel1 always an impressive function among the venerable monuments--some of them more than five centuries old--of bygone ,fitz,alans and ,howards1 touched by the chequered light from the great east window1 in which the ,duke and his little son are depicted in prayer before the altar4 ,i went from ,arundel to ,brighton to see my friend ,grissell1 whom ,i found wrestling with census-papers1 and with the difficulty of inducing his female domestics to admit 7at least approximately7 their real ages4 ,i had not1 of course1 had the same trouble at ,fort ,augustus1 where our residents varied in age from sixteen to ninety-five1 the latter being the record of our good old ,brother ,nathalan1 whom #baj we all hoped to see reach his century4#a ,at the ,union ,club1 whither ,grissell carried me to lunch1 ,i remember how we 7members1 guests1 waiters and all7 deserted our tables and flocked to the window to see--a flying man6 ,gustave ,hamel swooping down on the ,hove lawns after flying from ,hendon 7#fa miles in #eh minutes71 as steady as a rock on his ,bleriot monoplane4 ,it was the first 'plane ,i had ever seen in the air6 ,i reached ,london next morning in time to attend ,linlithgow's pretty wedding at ,st4 ,margaret's1 ,westminster4 ,it was ,primrose ,day1 and the crowds inside and outside the church were augmented by mobs gazing idly at ,dizzy's bedecked statue in ,parliament ,square4 ,i squeezed in afterwards for a few minutes at ,hereford ,gardens1 congratulated the bridegroom's mother1 and was amused to hear a dignified menial 7who1 ,i thought1 must have been a ,city toastmaster hired for the occasion7 shouting out the names of the distinguished guests in stentorian tones for the benefit of our exceedingly deaf host4 ,april was summerlike this year2 and ,i was glad to escape from the noisy stuffy town to my brother's river-side home1 where we sat in the violet twilight on the edge of ,thames1 watching the crafts of all sorts and sizes gliding past in the gloaming1 and listening to the snatches of music 7sometimes quite pretty and effective7 coming to us from launch or wherry across the darkling water4 ,that's a quiet pretty little thing1 said my brother1 looking admiringly at an electrically-propelled canoe #baa made for two which was skimming up stream swiftly and silently4 ,but the susceptible youth to whom the remark was addressed had eyes only for the vision of beauty in the stern4 ,i don't think1 he said knowingly1 that you'd find her quite so quiet if you knew her6 and was surprised at the shout of laughter with which his remark was received4 ,i got back to ,fort ,augustus just in time to vote at the ,school ,board elections4 ,we1 of course1 all plumped for our ,father ,andrew ,macdonell1 who was duly elected1 together with the local ,established1 ,united ,free1 and ,wee ,free ministers1 and the ,stratherrick priest--a curious clerical crowd4 ,the exceptionally fine summer attracted an unusual number of visitors to ,fort ,augustus2 and we had quite a gathering for the local celebration of ,king ,george's coronation-day1 which was kept chiefly as a children's holiday1 with games1 an enormous tea1 and loyal and patriotic songs and speeches4 ,a more domestic festival1 a few days later1 was the silver jubilee of my ordination1 which ,i was glad to be able to celebrate with my brethren4 ,i received quite a sheaf of letters and telegrams--,i had no idea that the anniversary would be so generally remembered--and had the pleasure of reading in a ,scottish newspaper that ,i was one of the most amiable1 devout1 and learned ecclesiastics of the day6 ,i was glad that among those present at my jubilee ,mass was one of my oldest ,catholic friends1 ,lady ,lovat1#b who was herself receiving congratulations this year on the birth of three new grandchildren1 including #bab sons and heirs to ,lovat and the ,stirlings of ,keir4 ,arriving at ,keir a few days later1 en route for my examination-centre in ,staffordshire1 ,i found my host and hostess out1 but made friends with the younger of ,keir--alias ,billy ,stirling--7aged two months71 who was reposing in his perambulator under a spreading chestnut tree on the lawn4 ,my ,oxford ,local work at ,oakamoor ,college over1 ,i went on to ,oxford for a few days1 on the tiresome 7and to me rather melancholy7 business of finally packing up my goods and chattels there4 ,although in ,long ,vacation1 ,i found a few kind friends still in residence3 and the ,hassalls took me to see the renovated west front 7,wolsey's7 of ,christ ,church4 ,the work1 they said1 had cost some ,l#ae1jjj1 but was well worth it4 ,a few hours in ,london ,i devoted to taking a nephew to see the ,kinemacolor pictures--the ,durbar and the ,prince of ,wales's investiture at ,carnarvon4 ,by some new contrivance the primary colours1 only1 were reproduced on the films1 giving us the blue sky1 the green grass and the scarlet uniforms1 but everything else brownish-grey3 the effect was perhaps more weird than beautiful or lifelike4 ,the popular young ,prince was in a box with his sister1 looking at his own doings at ,carnarvon2 and it was curious to see the audience cheering alternately the filmed prince and the live one1 who seemed rather embarrassed by the attention paid to him4 ,on my northward journey ,i visited my friends the ,rector of ,exeter ,college and his wife at their pretty ,westmorland home1 near ,oxenholme2 it was a district quite new to me1 and ,i was delighted with the fine rolling country1 and the noble view over ,morecambe ,bay and towards the distant ,lakes4 #bac ,i found1 on my return to our abbey1 extensive repairs going on in view of the expected influx of visitors in ,september1 and the procurator in despair at the dilatoriness of ,highland workmen1 recalling the famous plumber of ,carstairs4#c ,all the shooting-lodges were full1 and expeditions to our monastery1 when the shooters had an off-day1 seemed one of the regular attractions of the neighbourhood4 ,i remember one of our nearer neighbours1 the shooting-tenant's wife from ,glendoe1 riding down one day to call1 with ,lady ,winifred ,elwes--the ladies astride1 in ordinary frocks1 on fat grey ponies1 and our good lay-brother porter in speechless astonishment at the apparition4 ,i was glad to welcome one day for an hour or two my old friends the ,portsmouths1 en route for their remote castle of ,guisachan3 his lordship pompously pleasant as of old1 and his wife equally pleasant without the pomposity4 ,i presented them to the ,bishop of ,chur 7or ,coire71 ,mgr4 ,schmitt1 at that time a guest in the abbey with his two chaplains4 ,i had visited ,chur more than thirty years before on my way to the ,engadine 7before the railway was made under the ,albula ,pass71 and had visited the cathedral in quest of the supposed relics of ,st4 ,lucius1 the king of ,britain who1 ,bede says1 wrote to ,pope ,eleutherius asking for instruction in the ,christian faith4 ,the ,bishop had never heard this story2 but he said that there was a constant tradition at ,chur that ,lucius was a ,welsh saint who had died there after #bad spending many years in missionary labours among the ,rhaetian ,alps4#d ,i spent the last ,sunday of ,august as chaplain to the ,lovats at ,stronlairg1 their remote lodge nestling under the great range of the ,mona ,liadh hills1 in the wildest part of ,central ,inverness-shire4 ,i have called it1 and ,guisachan1 remote2 but no place is really so1 if accessible by a decent road1 in these motoring days2 and neighbours from thirty or forty miles away thought nothing of dropping in casually to luncheon or tea4 ,lady ,derby1 whose husband had one of ,lovat's forests1 came up one day with her daughter and her sister-in-law ,lady ,isobel ,gathorne-,hardy1 from whom ,i was sorry to hear a disquieting account of the health both of my niece ,dorothy ,cranbrook and of her husband4 ,with our house-party and the servants1 ,i had quite a congregation in our chapelle provisoire on ,sunday2 and it was1 as always1 a happiness to me to have the privilege of saying mass for a little flock of faithful ,catholics in the splendid solitude of these ,highland hills and glens4 ,the triduo1 or three days' celebrations in honour of the centenary of ,bishop ,hay1 had been fixed for ,september #ab-ad2 and we entertained more than seventy guests in the abbey for the occasion4 ,all the ,scottish bishops1 except the aged ,archbishop of ,glasgow1 were present1 besides ,bishop ,hedley1 ,abbot ,gasquet1 ,monsignors1 canons1 heads of religious orders1 priests and devout laymen1 including #bae ,lovat and his brother ,alastair4 ,the weather was perfect throughout the week2 and the religious services1 though naturally the chief feature of the celebrations1 were not so prolonged or so continuous as to prevent our visitors from enjoying many pleasant excursions by land and water4 ,the fine portrait of the illustrious bishop by ,george ,watson 7first president of the ,scottish ,academy71 lent us by ,blairs ,college1 excited much interest2 and my lantern-lecture on the ,life and ,times of ,hay 7a collateral descendant of whom1 by the way1 was one of our guests71 was very well received by a distinguished audience4 ,many of the visitors to the abbey and village stayed on a day or two for the local concert and ,highland ,gathering4 ,the ,rotherhams1 ,bishop ,john ,vaughan1 ,lady ,edmund ,talbot and her sister ,lady ,alice ,reyntiens1 were among those who arrived in time for these later festivities4 ,i heard from ,lord ,rotherham of the death of a very old friend1 ,sir ,william ,farrer1 whose daughter had married my brother4 ,he and his wife1 whom he had long survived 7he was nearly ninety at his death7 had shown to us all constant kindness in the days of our childhood and ever since2 and ,i recalled pleasant days at his beautiful ,berkshire home1 where the lovely gardens were the delight and recreation of his busy professional life4#e #baf ,the kind abbot of ,s4 ,paulo had come to ,england in order to escort to ,brazil a little community of nuns for his newly-founded ,benedictine convent2 and ,i had promised to attend their dispedida at ,southampton at the end of ,september4 ,i found myself at ,inverness among the gay crowds attending the ,northern ,meeting1 of which the special feature this year was a great rally of boy-scouts from all the northern counties1 in honour of their popular ,chief1 ,sir ,robert ,baden-,powell4 ,seven hundred mustered1 at least half of them kilted--a very pretty sight2 and ,b4 ,p4 made them a stirring speech1 with an interesting account of the spread of the movement 7,escotismo1 they called it in ,brazil1 where it was very popular71 in different parts of the world4 ,i travelled from ,edinburgh to ,london with the ,archbishop of ,york1 who had been officiating at the wedding of an ,ayrshire ,houldsworth4 ,we had last met at ,dunskey1 my old home in ,galloway1 when he was1 ,i think1 vicar of ,portsea4 ,i journeyed straight to ,southampton1 where good ,abbade ,miguel1 an ,english ,benedictine 7,dom ,sibley7 who was accompanying him to ,brazil1 and the seven nuns1#f were all ready for their long voyage4 ,i saw them on board the good old ,aragon 7which looked very spick-and-span71 waved my hands 7like ,nancy ,lee7 upon the quay1 and rather wished that ,i was one of the party6 ,meanwhile ,i had to get back to ,london1 to help to marry 7on a murky ,saturday afternoon7 my ,irish ,guards friend ,tom #bag ,vesey#g to ,lady ,cicely ,browne4 ,a mixed marriage1 as it is called1 is always a short affair1 with no vocal music1 and of course no nuptial mass2 but this was the briefest ,i ever remember1 the whole ceremony1 including a five minutes' sermon from ,father ,maturin1 taking exactly a quarter of an hour6 ,there was the usual tiresome crowd afterwards at ,lord ,revelstoke's house in ,carlton ,house ,terrace2 but ,i was glad to see some old friends1 and to have a pleasant chat with ,lady ,bigge1#h who1 by the way1 had just become ,lady ,stamfordham4 ,if there was no music at the ,chelsea church1 ,i came in for more than ,i bargained for next day 7,sunday71 namely a performance by a famous ,london choir of ,beethoven's ,grand ,mass1 a composition which ,i would fain hear anywhere rather than in church4 ,it was1 of course1 excellently rendered2 but as ,i listened to the crashing chords1 ,i could not help recalling the appreciation of an eminently-qualified critic1 treating of this musical masterpiece3-- ,the ,christian sentiment has completely left him in the ,gloria1 where there bursts forth1 not the pure and heavenly melody of a hymn of praise and peace1 but the shout of victory raised by human passions triumphing over a conquered enemy4 ,journeying north to ,ampleforth ,abbey1 where ,i #bah was engaged to give my ,bishop ,hay lecture1 ,i read in my morning paper 7#a7 that old ,sir ,william ,farrer had left ,l#cjj1jjj 7,i hoped my sister-in-law would benefit71 7#b7 that ,lady ,herbert of ,lea1 an outstanding figure in ,english ,catholic life for sixty years1 and a very kind friend to me in my own early ,catholic days1 had died at the age of nearly ninety2 7#c7 that the ,pope had created seventeen ,cardinals and two new ,english archbishoprics 7,liverpool and ,birmingham72 but no ,benedictine ,cardinal1 and none for ,canada or ,australia1 although there were two ,irish-,americans for ,u4,s4,a46 ,i spent ,november #a and #b at ,ampleforth3 on ,all ,saints' ,day ,i saw the college football team give a handsome drubbing to a visiting school--a feat to be proud of1 as they were themselves quite novices at the ,rugby game4 ,next day1 ,all ,souls'1 there were the usual solemn requiem services2 but owing to the exigencies of the school classes1 the poor monks had to crowd in before breakfast matins1 lauds1 prime1 meditation1 ,october devotions1 tierce1 sext1 none1 and ,pontifical high mass--with a full day's teaching to follow6 rather killing work1 ,i should imagine4 ,the abbot told me that he proposed sending two of his community to ,western ,canada1 to prospect in view of founding a monastery and college there4#i ,a long day's journey from ,ampleforth took me to ,keir1 where ,i found the new house-chapel1 though far from complete1 available for mass on ,sunday4 ,we drove over to ,doune in the afternoon with the ,norfolks 7who were my fellow-guests71 and explored #bai the old castle of the ,earls of ,moray1 partially restored by ,lord ,moray's grandfather4 ,the massive remains ,i thought very impressive2 and the ,duke1 who was perhaps more interested in architecture than in anything else1 was much taken with the old place4 ,he was also1 however1 interested in the ,arundel parlour-game of ten questions1 which we played after dinner1 and in which he displayed1 through years of practice1 an almost diabolical cleverness4 ,i travelled north to ,fort ,augustus after a night of terrific gales1 with fallen trees and snapped-off limbs lying everywhere along the railway--a melancholy sight4 ,i had been endeavouring to interest our friends in the south in our desire to reopen the ,abbey ,school when feasible2 but at a ,council held at the abbey on my return it was decided to leave that project in abeyance1 and to concentrate our efforts meanwhile on trying to replace the ramshackle shed which served as our church by at least a part of the permanent building4 ,harrowing appeals in the ,catholic press1 embodying views of the shanty in question3 a personal campaign undertaken by some of the fathers1 and begging-letters of the most insidiously-persuasive kind1 were part of the plan of campaign1 which met with a fair measure of success4 ,there was some feeling in our community in favour of a very much less ambitious 7and expensive7 church than originally planned2 but ,i personally would be no party to any scheme involving the abandonment of our hopes to see built a real abbey church1 worthy of the site and the surroundings1 and the erection instead of a neat1 simple1 and inexpensive ,r4,c4 chapel1 which seemed the ideal of some of the less #bbj imaginative of our brethren4 ,i was receiving invitations from various ,scottish centres to repeat my ,hay lecture2 and this1 we thought1 might be judiciously combined with efforts on behalf of our building-fund4 ,i went to ,blairs ,college1 outside ,aberdeen1 for the old bishop's actual centenary 7which we had anticipated at ,fort ,augustus71 and lectured to the students and their professors there4 ,on my way back1 ,i visited1 for the first time1 our cell at ,st4 ,james's1 high above the pretty prosperous sea-port of ,buckie4 ,the place pleased me--a conveniently-planned house1 standing among pine-woods and meadows1 with a fine prospect over land and sea2 and a nice chapel1 simple and devout1 with a gaily-gilt altar from ,tyrol4 ,i gave my lecture in three other places during these weeks of early winter3 at ,motherwell1 where my lantern failed me1 and ,i was grateful to my audience for listening to an hour's dry talk without pictures2 in ,edinburgh1 where ,i had a large and very appreciative audience2 and in ,glasgow1 where a still bigger gathering filled the ,city ,hall1 and was really enthusiastic4 ,it was all very fatiguing2 and ,i was glad to get home and enjoy a little rest and peace before ,christmas4 ,beaufort1 too1 where ,i acted as ,christmas chaplain as usual1 was restful this year1 with only a small family party1 and the ,lovats getting ready for a trip to ,egypt and ,khartoum4 ,we had a long1 severe1 and stormy winter in the ,highlands3 gale after gale1 in which our poor wooden church swayed and shivered and creaked like the old ,araguaya in the ,bay of ,biscay2 and then bitter frosts with the thermometer down in the neighbourhood of zero1 and all the able-bodied #bba monks smashing the ice in the lade1 in order to keep the current going for our electric light4 ,meanwhile we were cheered by the general interest1 even in far-off lands1 in our church-building crusade4 ,our ,maltese father brought a cheque from his island home2 and subscriptions came from my ,yucatan friend1 ,senor ,ygnacio ,peon1 and from ,alastair ,fraser in remote ,rhodesia4 ,i went off on a campaign south of the ,tweed1 with my lantern slides as a passport2 and it was never difficult1 in lecturing on the straits and struggles of the ,scottish ,church in the early nineteenth century1 to pass to the needs and hopes of the ,scottish ,benedictines in the early twentieth4 ,i had1 as always1 a kind reception and a sympathetic hearing from our brethren at ,douai ,abbey1 but had the bad luck to be invalided immediately afterwards1 fortunately in the pleasant ,surrey home of my sister1 who took me drives1 when ,i was convalescent1 all among the queer-shaped hills of the ,north ,downs1 intersected by the ,pilgrims' ,way to ,canterbury4 ,the national coal-strike began whilst ,i was at ,nutwood--a million men downing tools1 and the end impossible to foresee4 ,travelling1 of course1 became at once infinitely troublesome and tedious2#aj however1 ,i made my way to ,stonyhurst ,college1 where ,i had a big and interested audience 7there were many young ,scots among the #djj pupils71 and then managed to crawl back to ,london 7one simply #bbb sat in a station1 and waited for a train to come along some time71 where ,i attended the house-warming dinner of our ,caledonian ,club--,i was an original member--transferred from ,charles ,street to ,lord ,derby's fine house overlooking ,st4 ,james's ,square4 ,there were1 of course1 self-congratulatory speeches2 and a concert of ,scottish music wound up the evening agreeably4 ,i paid a flying visit to ,oxford this week--a guest now in my old ,hall1 which had a full muster of monastic undergraduates4 ,the most conspicuous object in ,oxford seemed to be our gracious tower at ,magdalen--a mass of elaborate scaffolding from top to bottom3#aa spring-cleaning1 ,i imagined1 for the ,prince of ,wales1 who was going into residence there in ,october4 ,i called on the new ,university chaplain1 installed1 but not yet1 apparently1 quite at home in1 the old familiar house in ,st4 ,aldate's1 and also managed to put in a few hours at the ,bodleian1 to finish my article on ,william of ,wykeham1 the last of eighty-three which ,i had written for the ,american ,encyclopaedia4 ,it had been interesting work1 of which some tangible results were certain vestments1 pictures1 and other adornments which ,i had been thus able to provide for the chapel of our ,benedictine ,hall4 ,lunching at the new ,caledonian1 on my way through ,london1 ,i found myself next young ,bute1 dreadfully depressed about the coal-strike1 and 7not for the first time7 looking forward to the workhouse for himself and family4 ,my next lecture was due at ,st4 ,edmund's ,college1 ,ware1 where ,i had the honour of numbering among my audience the #bbc brand-new ,cardinal ,archbishop of ,westminster1#ab imposing in his brand-new rose-coloured robes1 but as kind and gracious as ever4 ,in the middle of my lecture 7,i had an audience of nearly #cjj7 the divine 7as the church students were called7 in charge of the lighting startled us all by suddenly crying out1 ,there is going to be an explosion6 and the next moment a flame shot up from the lantern almost to the ceiling4 ,only that and nothing more2 but it was quite sufficiently alarming for the moment4 ,next day we enjoyed a motor-drive through the pretty pastoral country1 and saw in the course of it one curious sight--a suffragist female 7militant by the look of her7 standing on a stool just outside the lychgate of a village church1 and addressing an apparently very unreceptive audience of open-mouthed ,hertfordshire yokels4 ,holy ,week and ,easter found me again at ,arundel1 where there was a holiday gathering of many young people at the castle1 the youngest member of the party being the ,duke's baby daughter1 who was christened ,katherine the day after my arrival4 ,absit omen6 whispered 7not very tactfully1 ,i thought7 the good vicar of ,arundel1 as we drank tea and nibbled the christening cake after the ceremony--looking up1 as he spoke1 at a portrait of the baby's luckless ancestress ,queen ,katherine ,howard4 ,il n'y a pas de danger1 ,i whispered back2 but ,i don't know whether he understood ,french4 ,i was amused afterwards1 talking to the nurse of the ,duchess's small nephews and nieces1 to hear her opinion of the castle and its glories4 #bbd ,a dreadful place for children1 ,i call it1 with all these towers and battlements and dungeons and hiding-holes--one never knows where they'll get to next4 ,a ,london house for me1 where there's children to look after6 ,the services were jubilant1 and the great church beautifully adorned on ,easter ,sunday1 and the choir warbled what poor ,angus#ac used to call the sensuous harmonies of ,gounod in their best style4 ,yet more children arrived after ,easter1 including three tomboy great-nieces of our host2 and there were great games in the vast ,baron's hall--roller-skating on the expanse of polished floor1 and dancing to the rather inadequate strains of a wheezy gramophone which had suffered from the depredatory explorations of my lord of ,arundel and ,surrey and his sisters4 ,the ,duke motored me up to ,london in ,easter-week to attend ,stafford's wedding in ,eaton-square3 masses of arums and ,madonna lilies1 tall upstanding plumes of ,eton blue waving from the bridesmaids' heads1 and the inevitable and inappropriate ,o for the ,wings of a ,dove6 ,the ,primate of ,all ,ireland began his sermon by addressing the happy pair1 with unnecessary intimacy1 as ,eilleen and ,george2#ad and when he had finished we all trooped off to ,grosvenor ,house4 ,duchess ,millicent was in #bbe great beauty1 but ,i was sorry to see ,sutherland1 with whom ,i talked for five minutes1 looking very ill and almost voiceless4#ae ,we had a pleasant drive back to ,arundel2 and ,i was interested to notice what one never1 of course1 sees travelling by rail1 how completely the scenery1 the soil1 even the appearance of the people1 changed as we crossed the border from ,surrey into ,sussex4 ,i recall a luncheon about this time at a big ,london hotel--a snug little party of a hundred or so--with ,lord ,saye and ,sele in the chair1 and speeches from ,lord ,william ,cecil1 ,sir ,henry ,lunn1 and others1 about the development of ,china1 and especially the projected ,chinese university4 ,the novel toast of the ,president of the ,chinese ,republic was replied to1 in excellent ,english1 by the ,chinese ,minister1 ,yew ,luk ,lin1 next to one of whose two agreeable daughters ,i was seated3 they were all three in ,western garb4 ,next day my brother motored me down to ,eton 7always a pleasure to me7 to see his boy there2 we went on afterwards to ,brooklands1 and looked at the motors dashing round the track and the aeroplanes swooping round1 rising and alighting1 all new to me and very interesting4 ,another interesting evening was spent at the ,albert ,hall1 at the annual demonstration of the ,boys' ,brigade1 to which1 after the drill and other performances1 ,prince ,arthur of ,connaught presented new colours1 the gift of the ,princess ,royal4 ,after this ,i had to go down to ,ramsgate 7though feeling far from fit7 to give my last lecture at the ,benedictine school and abbey there4 ,i was interested in the #bbf church--,pugin's masterpiece1 as he considered it himself1 and thought it impressive1 but so dark that ,i could not read my breviary in it at noonday4#af ,the observance of the good monks was in some respects ,italian 7e4g4 the reading in the refectory was in that language72 but the schoolboys seemed quite ,british1 and cheered my lecture with ,british heartiness4 ,i should have liked to stay a little and enjoy the hospitality of my brethren in the pure air and sunshine of the ,thanet coast2 but ,i had to hurry back to ,london and submit to a serious medical overhauling1 the net result of which was an order to go in for an immediate and drastic cure--if possible at ,aix-les-,bains4#ag ,a friend's generosity made this feasible2 and1 duly authorized1 ,i prepared to pass three weeks at the famous ,savoy watering-place4 #a ,the old man died in his hundredth year1 after spending nearly a quarter of a century as a professed lay-brother in our abbey1 whither he had come as a septuagenarian1 by the advice of an episcopal cousin1 to prepare for his end6 ,see post1 page #bfj4 #b ,our friendship had lasted uninterruptedly for nearly forty years1 and had now extended to two generations of her descendants4 #c ,there was an old maid of ,carstairs1 ,whose villa required some repairs3 ,when she asked if the plumber ,could finish next summer1 ,he said he would be there for years6 #d ,my impression is that the king of ,britain was a bit of a myth1 and that the ,lucius venerated at ,chur was ,saint ,lucius of ,glamorgan--called in ,welsh ,lleurwg or ,lleurfer ,mawrthe ,great ,light-bearer1 who1 according to the ,welsh tradition1 was the founder of the ,church of ,llandaff and of others in ,south ,wales4 #e ,sir ,william and some of his nearest relations formed a remarkable group of men who had won titles and honours in their various careers4 ,his brother was created ,baron ,farrer2 one brother-in-law was ,sir ,stafford ,northcote1 first ,earl of ,iddesleigh1 and another was created ,baron ,hobhouse2 his nephew was ,lord ,northcote1 the first ,governor-,general of ,australia2 and he himself was given his knighthood at the first ,jubilee of ,queen ,victoria4 #f ,three 7of whom one1 the destined ,superior1 unhappily died on the voyage out7 were ,english nuns from ,stanbrook ,abbey1 near ,worcester3 the remaining four were ,brazilians1 who had passed through their novitiate in the same convent4 #g ,our friendship had begun unconventionally4 ,an anonymous article of mine1 in a weekly paper1 on my ,eton schoolfellows1 had mentioned ,tom's father1 ,eustace ,vesey1 as the dearest of them all4 ,tom1 then himself a small ,etonian1 wrote to me through the publisher3 ,i of course replied1 and the friendship thus begun lasted through his school days1 his rather meteoric time at ,christ ,church1 and afterwards4 #h ,sister to my best and oldest ,oxford friend1 ,willie ,neville4 ,sir ,arthur ,bigge1 private secretary successively to ,queen ,victoria1 ,edward ,,vii41 and ,george ,v41 was raised to the peerage as ,baron ,stamfordham this year 7#aiaa74 #i ,in the neighbourhood of ,calgary4 ,nothing1 however1 came of the scheme4 #aj ,and domestic conditions1 ,i may add1 highly uncomfortable--far more so than in the prolonged strike some years later1 for which people were more or less prepared4 ,i wonder1 my lord1 said a lady1 visiting a bishop in his vast and unwarmed palace1 that you don't get some of that nice ,welsh coal for your big house4 ,i forget the exact name2 ,i think it is called anti-christ coal6 #aa ,it was said to be the finest bit of scaffold-work ever put up4 ,i secured an excellent photograph of it4 #ab ,archbishop ,bourne of ,westminster had been created a ,cardinal by ,pius ,x4 in the ,consistory of ,november #bg1 #aiaa4 #ac ,i never hear ,gregorian music on earth1 he said to me once1 but ,i trust ,i shall hear nothing else in heaven4 ,there are 'many mansions' there1 and ,i humbly hope that my mansion will be as far removed as possible from ',hummel in ,b flat'6 #ad ,i mentioned this in my description of the wedding on our return to ,arundel4 ,the comment of one of our party1 a lady rather slow in the uptake 7as we say in ,scotland7 was1 ,but what did he mean8 ,whom was she leaning on8 was it ,king ,george8 #ae ,the ,duke of ,sutherland died about a year later4 #af ,pugin justified his love for dim religious churches with his usual delightful inconsequence4 ,in the thirteenth century1 he said in effect1 no one thought of reading in church3 they told their beads and made acts of faith and said their prayers4 ,my church is a thirteenth-century church1 to all intents and purposes--ergo6 #ag ,it was a case of inflammatory gouty eczema1 too long neglected4 #bbg ,,chapter ,,xiii #aiab-aiac ,the ,lovat family were all interested in ,st4 ,vincent's ,home for ,cripples1 near ,london1 where a daughter of the house 7a ,sister of ,charity7 was a nurse2 and ,i attended at their invitation a concert in aid of it1 the day before ,i left ,london1 at ,sunderland ,house4 ,the sumptuous ball-room1 with its walls of ,italian marble1 heavily gilt ceiling1 and chandeliers of rock crystal1 made a handsome setting for a brilliant audience1 which included ,queen ,amelie of ,portugal4 ,her ,majesty honoured me with a short conversation during the afternoon1 and seemed interested to hear of my sojourn1 some years before1 in a ,portuguese monastery 7,cucujaes71 and of our charitable but eccentric neighbour there1 the ,condessa de ,penha ,longa4#a ,the concert1 which included two woebegone recitations from ,mrs4 ,patrick ,campbell1 and a funny song written1 composed1 and sung by ,cyril ,maude--his first effort1 he assured us1 in that line#b--was a success by which1 ,i hope1 the poor cripples benefited considerably4 #bbh ,next day ,i made a bee-line for the south of ,france1 going through ,paris without stopping4 ,the season was hardly open in ,aix-les-,bains2 and the pretty town looked a little triste1 with many shops still shut up4 ,but the spring weather was fresh and bright1 and ,i was much in the open air between the stages of my cure1 which was fairly severe4 ,i liked the friendly ,savoyards1 a pious and faithful race1 though with such a reputation for grumbling that their own king 7,victor ,amadeus ,,ii47 said of them1 ,ils ne sont jamais contents3 s'il pleuvait de sequins1 ils dirait que le bon ,dieu casse leurs ardoises6 ,they did not1 however1 grumble in my hearing2 and the portly cure of the new church on the hill1 with whom ,i made friends1 praised their simplicity and virtue4 ,he organized various attractions during ,may in his church1 whither ,i used to conduct some of my hotel-acquaintances after dinner1 assuring them that they would be better entertained there than in losing their money on the little horses in the stuffy casino4 ,one evening there would be projections lumineuses1 lantern-views of some of ,our ,lady's loveliest churches in ,france1 or of the adventures of ,joan of ,arc1 always with racy comments from his reverence2 at another time a conference dialoguee--the vicaire 7disguised in a red muffler7 propounding agnostic conundrums from a pew1 and the cure answering them triumphantly from the pulpit1 amid the plaudits of the congregation4 ,he was a really excellent preacher2 and his series of ,may sermons 7which ,i insisted on my friends staying to hear7 on ,les ,peches d'un homme d'affaires--de plaisir--d',etat1 and so on1 were uncommonly practical as well as eloquent4 #bbi ,pentecost1 a great popular festival here1 was kept with piety as well as merriment4 ,the church was crowded with communicants from daybreak3 later on the ,cardinal ,archbishop of ,chambery 7whom ,i had the pleasure of meeting at breakfast at the presbytery7 came and confirmed a large number of children who had made their first ,communions on ,ascension ,day1 after himself giving them a pretty searching public examination in the catechism4 ,the afternoon and evening were devoted to festivity--dancing1 gymnastics1 military retraites1 fireworks1 illuminations1 and a sort of ,greenwich ,fair2 all very gay and harmless4 ,the exigencies of my cure would not permit of distant expeditions to ,annecy1 the ,grande ,chartreuse1 etc41 which ,i should have liked to visit4 ,one interesting excursion ,i managed1 to the ,cistercian ,abbey of ,hautecombe1 charmingly situated on a wooded promontory overlooking ,lake ,bourget4 ,there was a resident community of thirty monks--the only one left in ,france under the then anti-,christian regime4 ,they owed their exemption to the fact of their church being the ,westminster ,abbey of ,savoy1 containing some thirty tombs of the ancestors of the ,king of ,italy1 who had protested to the ,french ,government against the expulsion of the guardians of the ashes of his ancestors2 and so they were allowed to remain and serve ,god in peace4 ,unfortunately the fine twelfth-century church had been restored and re-restored in debased and florid fashion1 a single chapel being all that was left intact of the pre-,revolution building4 ,i left ,aix1 much the better for my visit1 at the end of ,may1 travelling straight to ,paris with two #bcj ladies--one an extraordinarily voluble ,irish widow1 in my carriage4 ,the weather was hot2 and ,i tired myself out with an exhaustive and exhausting visit to the ,salon and the sculptures in the ,champs ,elysees4 ,the picture of the year 7surrounded always by a silent and interested crowd7 was ,jean ,beraud's ,new ,way of the ,cross1#c which1 if it made only a percentage of ,french men and women realize what the public renunciation of ,christianity meant1 was calculated to do more good than many sermons4 ,a week later ,i was at ,keir1 where ,i found some anxiety caused by the serious illness of ,lovat1 who was laid up with typhoid1 and fretting at being unable1 for the first time since the raising of the ,lovat ,scouts a dozen years before1 to take command of the corps at their annual training4 ,we enjoyed some lovely ,june weather at ,keir1 motoring one day to ,stirling's picturesque lodge on ,loch ,lubnaig1 and lunching al fresco among stonecrops and saxifrages and pansies1 on a bank overlooking the loch and the purple mass of ,ben ,ledi4 ,another day we saw the smart little soldier-boys of ,queen ,victoria's ,school at ,dunblane get their prizes from the ,duchess of ,montrose1 with whose husband ,i had a chat about our ,etonian days together1 consule ,planco4 ,i was bidden to ,ampleforth for the jubilee celebrations there 7their fine college had been opened in #ahfb71 which was graced by the presence of #bca ,cardinal ,bourne--a stately figure with his long scarlet train sweeping over the green lawns in the great open-air procession which was the central feature of the solemnities4 ,the college ,o4,t4,c4 formed an uncommonly smart bodyguard to his ,eminence1 though they puzzled1 and even shocked1 some of the old ,benedictines present by remaining covered 7in military fashion7 during the service4 ,the after-luncheon oratory was neither more nor less tedious than usual2 but we all enjoyed later an admirable presentment by the boys of ,the ,frogs of ,aristophanes1 with ,parry's delightful music4 ,i got back to ,fort ,augustus in time for the canonical visitation of the monastery by the ,abbot-president1 to whom ,i spoke of my hope that ,i might be allowed to return for a time to ,brazil2 but he replied to me1 in effect1 in the words of ,st4 ,sixtus to his faithful deacon1#d and ,i could only resign myself with what grace ,i could to the inevitable4 ,i learned on ,july #b1 the thirty-second anniversary of my religious profession1 that our prior's resignation of office1 owing to his almost continual ill-health1 had been accepted1 and that ,i was to be appointed in his place4 ,meanwhile the ,oxford ,local ,examinations called me 7for the last time7 to ,north ,staffordshire1 where it was pleasantly cool among the hills and wooded glens of ,oakamoor4 ,i spent a ,sunday at ,cheadle1 in the valley below1 and admired the graceful church which ,pugin had been given carte blanche by the ,good ,earl of ,shrewsbury to build as he liked1 with no fear of the accursed blue pencil 7as he called it7 #bcb which so often mutilated his elaborate designs4#e ,as attractive an example of the architect's skill as could be quoted1 a severe critic#f had called the ,cheadle church2 and the tribute was well deserved4 ,two days after my return to our abbey ,i was formally installed in office as prior1 by my good friend the abbot of ,ampleforth1 with the same ceremonial which ,i had witnessed thirty-four years previously1 when ,dom ,jerome ,vaughan was inducted into office in the vaulted guard-room of the old ,fort1 afterwards incorporated into the monastic guest-house4 ,the burden of superiorship1 a heavy one enough1 was lightened not only by the unanimous kindness of my own brethren1 but by the cordiality with which my appointment was greeted by friends outside1 including the bishop and clergy of our diocese of ,aberdeen1 who were the guests of the abbey for their annual retreat1 a few days after my installation4 ,a consoling message1 too1 came to me from the ,holy ,father himself through ,pere ,lepicier1 who had come from ,rome in the quality of ,apostolic ,visitor to ,scotland1 and stayed with us for some days2 a ,franco-,roman diplomatist with the suavest possible manner and address1 masking 7it struck me7 no little acuteness and a strong personality4 ,his visit1 and that of the diocesan clergy1 coincided with #bcc ,st4 ,oswald's ,day1 which we kept very happily1 many of our neighbours in the village and district1 including my old friend the parish minister1 dining with us in the monastic refectory4 ,a still older friend1 ,george ,lane ,fox1 sent me a cordial telegram2 and ,i was able to send one in return congratulating him on the handsome testimonial he had just received on his retirement from a quarter of a century's office as ,vice-chancellor of the ,primrose ,league4 ,a grief to us both1 only a few days later1 was the news of the death1 at our abbey of ,cesena in ,italy1 of his eldest son1 who had been closely connected with ,fort ,augustus from his childhood1 first as a little boy in the abbey-school1 and later as a monk and priest of our community4 ,one of my first works as prior was to organize a work which we had very gladly undertaken--that of ministering as naval chaplains to ships in ,scottish waters4 ,the chief naval stations were ,lamlash 7,arran7 in the south-west and ,cromarty in the northeast2 and thither certain of our fathers journeyed every week1 meeting as a rule with every kindness and consideration from the captains and officers1 and getting into touch with the considerable number of ,catholic bluejackets on the various ships4 ,sometimes1 between the ,sundays1 they found time to prosecute the quest1 which was ever before us1 for our church-building fund2 and our good ,father ,odo1 in particular1 reaped quite a little harvest1 during his ,lamlash chaplaincy1 in my native diocese of ,galloway1 where there were still kind friends who remembered me1 and were glad to show sympathy with an object which ,i had so deeply at heart4 ,dom ,odo was not only a zealous priest but an #bcd equally zealous antiquarian and ,f4,r4,s4,a4 7,scot474 ,he had specialized in artificial islands1 about which he read an interesting paper this autumn at the ,british ,association meeting at ,dundee2 and he was elected about the same time president of the ,inverness ,field ,club1 the premier scientific society of the north of ,scotland4 ,i record this with pleasure as an example 7not1 of course1 an isolated one7 of the ,benedictine liberty which permits and encourages the members of our ,order to cultivate freely---apart from their professional studies and avocations--such tastes and talents as they may possess1 and which1 needless to say1 greatly adds to the interest and variety of their lives4 ,my own life was of course1 after my entering on the office and duties of prior1 much more confined than heretofore to the precincts of our ,scottish abbey4 ,this was no additional burden to me2 for my life1 whether at ,fort ,augustus or ,oxford or in ,brazil1 had always been a life in community2 and ,i had always been happy and at home in the society of my brethren in the monastery4 ,perhaps the most tiring and trying feature in my position as superior was the never-ceasing correspondence of all kinds which it involved1 and with which one had personally to grapple2 but in other ways the wise subdivision of labour which prevails in a well-ordered religious house did much to lighten the daily burden1 and the ready willingness in all quarters to afford whatever help and relief was needed was a constant solace and encouragement4 ,the busy days thus passed quickly by1 varied by the continual influx of guests--always interested and sometimes interesting--who were never wanting in our abbey4 #bce ,our neighbours1 too1 were kind and friendly2 and their motors were often at one's disposal for an afternoon's drive up one or other of the beautiful glens which ran westward from our ,gleann ,mhor1 the ,great ,glen of all1 to the sea4 ,then there were duties connected with the parish and district ,councils1 to which ,i was elected soon after becoming prior2 and the constant interest of directing the plan of campaign in aid of our building-fund1 and the satisfaction of seeing its steady increase4 ,i recall1 during those bright still days of late autumn 7often the loveliest season of the ,highland year71 a retreat given us by an eloquent ,dominican2 and also a visit from ,lady ,lovat1 who1 as our founder's widow1 enjoyed the privilege of entering the monastic enclosure with her suite 7in this case her daughter-in-law1 ,lovat's wife1 and a friend7--a formal enough affair1 but of course novel and interesting to the ladies concerned4 ,according to the quaint antique prescription1 the great bell was tolled when they entered the cloister1 warning the monks to remain in their cells3 no meat nor drink could be served to them within the enclosure3 they were to visit only the public places of the monastery1 and were enjoined not to gaze curiously about them4 ,lady ,lovat would fain have lingered in our well-furnished library2 but our little procession swept on relentlessly1 and her literary longings remained ungratified4#g #bcf ,it was not1 ,i think1 until ,november of this year that ,i spent a night away from ,fort ,augustus1 being bidden to ,liverpool to keep1 with a large gathering of his friends1 the golden jubilee of our kind old friend ,bishop ,hedley4 ,there was a ,high ,mass1 a sermon1 and 7of course7 a festival dinner1 with many speeches--prosy1 melancholy1 retrospective1 or humorous1 according to the mood or the idiosyncrasy of the several speakers4 ,my brief oration1 conveying the thanks of the guests1 included two funny stories1 which so favourably impressed one of the reporters1 that he announced in his paper next day that the honours of the evening's oratory undoubtedly rested with a venerable and genial monk from the other side of the ,border6 ,i stayed at ,glasgow on my way north1 to take the chair at the annual festival of the ,caledonian ,catholic ,association1 an admirably beneficent institution in which ,i was glad to show my interest4#h ,after the concert1 and before the ball which followed1 ,stirling and ,i left for ,keir in a hired motor-car1 which broke down badly in the middle of ,cumbernauld ,muir1 leaving us plantes-la till past midnight4 ,there was the residuum of a big shooting-party at ,keir2 and we all attended next day a vocal recital given in the old cathedral by ,mlle4 ,hommedieu--an odd-sounding name3 ,i wondered if she was ,miss ,godman in private life4 ,i had spent ,christmas so often at ,beaufort 7no #bcg less than eleven times since #ahic7 that it seemed strange to be absent from there this year2 but ,i had of course to preside at the solemnities in our own church1 which 7notwithstanding the appalling weather conditions7 was crowded to the doors for the midnight services4 ,we dined1 as usual1 in the vacant school refectory1 gaily decorated1 with a blazing log fire3 there was an informal concert afterwards1 and the festive evening was enjoyed by all4 ,i made a ,christmas call on my old friend ,sir ,aubone ,fife1#i whose annual quest for hinds had been interrupted by illness4 ,he rented the winter shooting of ,inchnacardoch ,forest from ,lovat1 and spent every ,christmas and ,new ,year solus at our little hotel1 content with his sport1 his own society1 and an occasional visit from me6 ,he had comfortable bachelor quarters in ,jermyn ,street3 ,london for him was bounded by ,pall ,mall and ,oxford ,street3 his home and recreation were in his many clubs1 and he always reminded me irresistibly of a twentieth-century ,major ,pendennis4 ,i managed to put in two nights at ,beaufort in ,christmas week1 receiving a hearty welcome from the merry party of ,frasers and ,maxwells assembled there1 and returned to the abbey for ,new ,year's ,day1 in time to take part in the various holiday entertainments--,christmas trees1 theatricals1 etc41 organised for our good people4 ,twelfth-day ,i spent at ,keir1 preaching #bch 7seated1 my usual practice now71#aj to a good congregation in the beautiful private chapel1 which was almost complete2 and before returning home ,i paid a little visit to ,kelburn1 where ,i found my poor brother-in-law in bed with a broken crown 7having fallen downstairs67 but my nephew the flying-man apparently quite recovered1 ,i was glad to see1 from his more serious knock on the head at ,bournemouth4 ,i was pleased to hear from my gunner brother1 who was staying at ,kelburn1 of his appointment--an excellent berth--as ,a4,a4,g4 at the ,war ,office4 ,the closing weeks of our long northern winter were exceptionally bleak and stormy this year2 but constant occupation made them pass quickly enough4 ,february #aj 7,st4 ,scholastica's ,day71 on which our good nuns kept high festival1 and ,i officiated at their solemn services1 was also the opening day of our salmon-fishing2 and in the first haul we landed fifteen fish weighing just #bej pounds1 the heaviest a beautiful #bf-pounder4 ,a salmon was always an acceptable present to a kind friend in the south3 some we ate fresh 7a welcome variation of our ,lenten fare71 and the rest we tried to kipper4#aa ,february #aj was otherwise memorable this year1 as on that day ,i learned that our community was to elect its abbot a month later4 ,we voted first on the important question whether the election should be for life1 as provided in our ,constitutions1 #bci or 7by special indult of ,rome7 for a fixed term of years1 which was the usual practice in the other houses of the ,congregation4 ,the votes--some sent by post and telegraph--were almost equally divided2 and it was finally settled that the election should be for eight years4 ,nearly all our absentee monks arrived from missions1 chaplaincies1 and elsewhere1 for the tractatus1 or discussions preliminary to the election1 which was fixed for ,thursday in ,passion ,week1 under the presidency of the abbot of ,ampleforth4 ,it took place after the customary mass of the ,holy ,spirit1 and turned out a very brief affair1 as ,i was elected by more than the requisite number of votes at the first scrutiny1 as it was called4#ab ,my confirmation and installation followed immediately--and then the letters and telegrams began pouring in1 all requiring to be answered2 but the roads and railways were providentially blocked for some days before ,easter1 by a ,march snowstorm of almost unprecedented violence1 and our mail service was entirely suspended2 so ,i got a little breathing time6 ,thus undistracted1 ,i officiated at all the services of the season1 celebrating on ,easter ,sunday amid rain1 hail1 and driving easterly gales that made the text of my ,paschal sermon--,jam hiems transiit1 imber abiit et recessit1#ac sound ironical enough4 ,i spent an ,eastertide ,sunday at ,keir1 where spring had really set in1 and while there made an expedition or two with an archaeological #bdj enthusiast who was of our party3 to ,stirling ,castle1 much finer and more spacious than ,i had imagined2 to the scanty remains--only the massive church tower and the old monastic dove-cot6--of the grand old abbey of ,cambuskenneth2 and to ,doune ,castle1 where it was odd to come on workmen installing electric light in the venerable ruins in preparation for the coming-of-age of my ,lord ,doune1 son of the ,bonnie ,earl of ,moray4 ,i returned to ,inverness just in time to attend the funeral of ,andrew ,macdonald1 ,sheriff-clerk of the county1 a devout ,catholic1 and one of the oldest and most faithful friends of our abbey and community4 ,there was a great gathering in the church and at the grave-side1 and all seemed impressed by the solemn rites1 and by the chanting of our monastic choir4 ,we were all busily occupied1 during the next ten days1 with preparations for the solemnity of my abbatial benediction1 which took place on ,april #i1 in presence of a large assemblage of invited guests and interested onlookers4 ,it was a particular pleasure to me to receive the ,church's benison at the hands of a friend of many years' standing1 the venerable ,bishop of ,argyll and the ,isles1 whom ,i had known in old happy days at ,mountstuart1 as parish priest of ,rothesay4 ,abbots ,gasquet and ,smith assisted the bishop2 and ,lovat and other friends were among the laymen who had their part in the august and impressive ceremony1 which lasted for fully three hours4 ,a hundred guests were entertained in our refectory2 and ,i received many good wishes during the day1 including telegrams from ,cardinals ,bourne and ,merry del ,val1 ,norfolk1 ,bute1 and ,charles ,dalrymple1 whose kind #bda message gratified me as the only one received from any member of my family4#ad ,an informal concert in the evening1 in the theatre-hall of the college1 was a pleasant close to a memorable day4 ,an earlier date than might otherwise have been the case had been fixed for the abbatial election at ,fort ,augustus by the superiors of our ,order1 who desired that our abbey should be represented by its duly-constituted head at the great ,benedictine gathering which was to take place in ,italy this summer4 ,the object of this assemblage1 to which every abbot of ,black ,monks 7,monachi ,nigri7 in ,christendom received an invitation1 was two-fold3 first to assist at the consecration of the crypt of the church at ,monte ,cassino1 the cradle of our venerable ,order1 after its complete restoration and decoration by the ,beuron ,school of ,benedictine artists2 and secondly1 to elect1 in ,rome1 a coadjutor to the ,abbot ,primate of the ,order1 whose health had broken down4 ,i went south in the last week of ,april1 and after a flying visit to my sister in ,surrey 7where ,i said mass at the very pretty and well-kept church at ,redhill71 went on to stay with the ,french ,benedictines at ,farnborough1 where two members of our ,fort ,augustus community were at that time in residence4 ,they showed me much of interest1 including the small museum of ,napoleonic relics1 and1 of course1 the crypt containing the massive granite sarcophagi containing the bodies of ,napoleon #bdb ,,iii4 and his only son4 ,it so chanced that the aged ,empress 7then in her eighty-eighth year7 had been praying in the church when we entered it2 and we saw her leaving in her carriage for her chateau a few hundred yards away4 ,i thought1 as ,i glanced at the frail shrunken figure leaning on her staff1 of a summer day in ,paris forty-eight long years before1 when ,i had seen her1 a radiant and beautiful vision1 walking in the ,tuileries gardens with her little son1 amid the admiring plaudits of an apparently devoted people4 ,the young prince was mounted on a sort of two-wheeled hobby-horse1 gaily painted and gilt1 and ,i asked my companion 7a ,french lady7 what it might be4 ,ah6 she replied1 c'est une invention absolument nouvelle3 cela s'appelle un' 've-lo-ci-pede'6 ,the only other occasion on which ,i ever saw the ,empress was in ,rome some ten years later1 when she came1 widowed and dethroned1 to pay her respects to the venerable ,pontiff ,pius ,,ix4 ,i have described elsewhere#ae this memorable visit1 which ,i was privileged to witness as being at that time a chamberlain on duty at the ,vatican4 ,my friend ,mac,call1 from ,arundel1 joined me at ,dover1 and we had a swift and uneventful journey to ,venice 7actually my first visit67 where ,i spent three crowded happy days--it was all ,i could spare--as the guest of an old ,eton and ,oxford friend in his delightful palazzo on the ,rio ,marin4 ,i cannot attempt any description3 what impressed me most vividly1 perhaps1 apart from the incomparable glories of ,s4 ,marco1 was our visit1 in the amber and purple twilight of a ,venetian ,may-day1 to our ,benedictine #bdc church of ,st4 ,george--its monastery 7alas6 almost derelict7 and graceful rose-red campanile reflected in the deep azure of the lagoon4 ,i regretfully left ,venice that night1 and travelling straight through ,rome1 in the company of abbots of various lands and languages1 reached ,cassino about mid-day1 and was driven up the sacred mountain in a motor-car 7an innovation since my last pilgrimage hither67 passing1 at various turns of the excellent road1 groups of peasants toiling up the rugged immemorial path to the monastery4 ,we were welcomed by the kind abbot at the foot of the great staircase2 and ,i was soon installed in a pleasant cell1 with a view that almost took one's breath away over the wild and mountainous ,abruzzi1#af and the thin clear mountain air blowing in at one's window with delicious freshness4 ,i do not think ,i ever attended such a series of prolonged and stately church functions as during the week of our sojourn at ,monte ,cassino4 ,the chiefs of our ,order in various countries officiated in turn at the different solemnities2 and we abbots 7seventy or eighty of us7 sat perched on hard and narrow benches1 tier upon tier1 on either side of the high altar4 ,one day it was a solemn requiem mass for the deceased benefactors of our ,order3 another1 the consecration by the ,cardinal ,legate representing #bdd the ,pope1#ag assisted by two ,benedictine archbishops1 of the three altars in the crypt 7this ceremony alone lasted five hours1 and almost finished me671 whilst on ,sunday his ,eminence conducted the solemn high mass and subsequent procession1 the great church1 cortili beyond1 and every available foot of space being occupied by an immense and devout crowd of gaily-dressed peasants1 most of whom had slept on the bare ground in the open air on the previous night4 ,on this crowning day we were more than three hundred in the vast refectory for dinner1 at the end of which a choir of monks chanted with thrilling effect the mediaeval ,laudes1 or ,acclamations of ,hincmar1 in honour of our illustrious guests4 ,among these magnates was my old friend of early days in ,brazil1 ,bishop ,gerard van ,caloen1 whom ,i had not seen for sixteen years4#ah ,he had grown a long grey beard1 and his eyes looked out through his spectacles as sad and inscrutable as ever4#ai ,i sat next him at the ludus liturgico-scenicus1 one of the diversions provided for us by the community3 a grave musical setting of the life and death of ,saints ,benedict and ,scholastica1 so pathetic that ,i wept--to the surprise of my friend the bishop1 who said he never knew that ,i was so tender-hearted6 ,the play was presented by some of the young monks #bde and their pupils 7they had over two hundred in the abbey1 including a lay boarding-school and two seminaries71 and on another evening they gave us a really excellent concert of vocal and instrumental music4 ,i do not know where space was found for playgrounds for all these boys1 for there seemed really very little room on the mountain top for anything except the extensive buildings4 ,the abbot of ,downside1 who was a great advocate of exercise1 used to walk half-way down the hill and up again every day after dinner3 it was1 as far as ,i could discover1 the only walk possible4 ,in any case the available time for recreation between the long-drawn-out religious celebrations was short enough3 it was a strenuous week1 though a very interesting one1 and rendered enjoyable by the unwearied attention which the good monks1 one and all1 showed to their numberless and no doubt occasionally troublesome guests4 ,when all was over ,i left ,monte ,cassino in the pleasant company of my friend ,abbot ,miguel of ,s4 ,paulo1 and travelled by an incredibly slow train to ,rome1 where we found a second ,benedictine welcome of not less heartiness in the international abbey of ,st4 ,anselm on the ,aventine ,hill4 #a ,the lady supported an orphanage in her castello1 and also an incredible number of dogs1 and distributed her affections equally between the dogs and the orphans4 #b ,this1 however1 was probably a mere appeal ad misericordiam4 ,cyril was no novice6 #c ,representing ,christ hounded along the road to ,calvary by atheistic deputies and anti-,christian schoolmasters1 the latter inciting children to fling stones at ,him4 ,on the opposite side of the way knelt a little group of believers1 children and others1 with arms outstretched towards the ,saviour4 ,some of those looking at the picture were greatly affected1 even to tears4 #d ,majora tibi debentur pro fide ,christi certamina4--,office of ,st4 ,laurence4 #e ,it was ,pugin's constant grievance that the poverty of ,english ,catholics prevented him from carrying out his grandiose ideas4 ,a bishop once wrote to him asking for plans for a cathedral1 very spacious1 extraordinarily handsome1 and--above all--cheap1 money being very scarce4 ,pugin lost his temper on seeing what was the sum suggested4 ,my dear ,lord1 he wrote back1 why not say #cjs4 more1 and have a tower and spire when you are about it8 #f ,sir ,charles ,eastlake 7,history of the ,gothic ,revival1 p4 #aed74 #g ,queens ,regnant 7and ,i think ,consort7 have the ex officio entree to monasteries2 but ,fort ,augustus had never been so honoured1 our only crowned head visitor having been ,king ,leopold of ,belgium4 ,i remember ,prince ,henry of ,battenberg1 who came in a yacht with ,princess ,beatrice1 being put out at the latter being denied admission into the enclosure4 ,there was some talk of ,king ,edward paying us a visit from ,glenquoich1 where he was ,lord ,burton's guest2 but nothing came of it4 #h ,i had presided at a festival of the ,association fifteen years previously 7in #ahig74 #i ,a fine old soldier and sportsman1 who had fought in ,afghanistan and ,burmah1 and was afterwards appointed1 first ,clerk of the ,cheque1 and later standard-bearer1 in the ,king's ,bodyguard4 ,he volunteered1 when well over seventy1 for service in the ,great ,war1 and was given1 ,i think1 some post in connection with the defences of the ,forth ,bridge4 #aj ,i preach sitting1 said ,bateman3 it is more conformable to antiquity and to reason to sit than to stand4--,newman1 ,loss and ,gain 7ed4 #ahgf71 page #gj4 ,my friend ,george ,angus had followed suit at ,st4 ,andrews4 #aa ,i say tried2 for our good ,belgian chef1 who said he understood the process1 used some mysterious pickle of his own invention--with disastrous results6 #ab ,in the event of no candidate receiving a sufficient number of votes1 the scrutiny was repeated again and again--often a very lengthy and tedious proceeding4 #ac ,the winter is now past1 the rain is over and gone4 ,it was never really safe to quote these words at ,fort ,augustus before 7say7 the end of ,may4 #ad ,my brother-in-law1 ,sir ,charles ,dalrymple1 had been one of those who most bitterly resented my change of religion in #ahge1 and still more my entrance into the ,benedictine ,order4 ,but time had softened old asperities2 and we had been on affectionate terms for many years past4 #ae ,a ,medley of ,memories 7#ast ,series71 pp4 #ha1 #hb4 #af ,most of the ,abruzzi was included in the extensive diocese of ,monte ,cassino 7one of the largest in ,italy71 which was under the administration of the abbot1 although he was not a bishop4 ,his jurisdiction extended over no less than seven ancient dioceses--a fact symbolized by the interesting and unique custom of his wearing1 when he celebrated pontifical high mass1 seven different mitres in succession4 #ag ,cardinal ,gasparri1 at that time ,secretary of ,state to the reigning ,pontiff1 ,benedict ,,xv4 #ah ,the pioneer of the ,benedictine revival in ,brazil1 and my ,superior at the abbey of ,olinda seventeen years before4 ,see ,a ,medley of ,memories 7#ast ,series71 chaps1 xvi4 and xvii4 ,dom ,gerard was consecrated 7titular7 ,bishop of ,phocaea on ,april #ah1 #aijf4 #ai ,like ,dr4 ,firmin's in ,philip4 ,dreary1 sad1 as into a great blank desert1 looked the eyes4--,thackeray1 ,philip1 chap4 iii4 #bdf ,,chapter ,,xiv #aiac-aiad ,the object of the great gathering1 in the summer of #aiac1 of ,benedictine abbots in ,rome1 whither they had been especially summoned by the ,abbas ,abbatum1 ,pope ,pius ,x41 was not primarily devotional or liturgical1 like the assemblage just held at ,monte ,cassino4 ,it was first and foremost a business meeting1 called for the purpose of electing a coadjutor 7with right of succession7 to the first ,abbot ,primate of the ,order1 ,dom ,hildebrand de ,hemptinne1 the distinguished ,belgian prelate1 who1 after a life entirely devoted to the interests of the ,church and of his brother-monks1 had been compelled by impaired and enfeebled health to retire from all active work4 ,one of his most notable achievements had been the planning and erection1 at the instance and with the generous help of ,leo ,,xiii41 of the noble monastic college on the ,aventine1 which that ,pontiff declared would be the greatest material monument of his fifteen years' tenure of the see of ,peter4 ,it was pathetic that1 although in residence at ,st4 ,anselm's ,college 7his own beloved foundation7 when we assembled there for the business in hand1 ,abbot de ,hemptinne was quite unable to take any part in it1 or even personally to welcome us to ,rome4 ,he appeared only once in public during our stay #bdg there--a mere wreck of the active personality which had been so long associated with the interests and the progress of our ,order in every part of ,christendom4 ,we at ,fort ,augustus owed much to his wisdom and sympathetic kindness2 and ,i was touched to see1 during the few minutes' conversation which ,i had with him1 how his face lightened up1 and something of the old alertness reawakened in his voice and bearing1 as we spoke of new hopes and new developments in connection with our ,scottish abbey4#a ,there were at this time just a hundred abbates regiminis 7i4e4 ruling abbots1 excluding those holding merely titular rank7 of ,black ,monks in the ,christian world2 and of these ,i ranked last--for we took precedence according to the date of appointment1 not according to the antiquity of our respective abbeys4 ,seventy-five were actually present in ,rome and most of the absentees had sent proxies to represent them4 ,four 7two from ,u4,s4,a41 one ,brazilian1 and one ,australian7 were of episcopal rank1 and six others1 though not bishops1 exercised episcopal jurisdiction4 ,there were ten ,arch-abbots1 or abbots-president1 of various national ,congregations2 the rank and file being ruling abbots from every country in ,christendom4 ,latin was1 of course1 the official language at our meetings1 and to some extent the medium also of private intercourse1 though the variations of pronunciation made this a matter of some difficulty4 ,the great hall of the abbey where our sessions were held was bad acoustically2 and the magnates at the table of honour 7some of them #bdh prelates of great age7 mumbled so inaudibly that we1 in our humble places at the end of the hall1 raised a cry of ,altius6 loquimini altius6 nihil audivimus6 and others of the fathers took up the cry of ,nihil6 nihil6 ,at the first scrutiny the abbot of ,einsiedeln1 in ,switzerland1 got eighty-four out of the ninety-eight votes1 which seemed decisive1 and would have been so had he not1 cum magna gratitudine1 but extremely emphatically1 declared that nothing would induce him to accept4 ,the ,pope1 who was appealed to1 expressed his regret1 but declined to put any pressure on the reluctant abbot3 two more scrutinies followed1 and finally ,abbot von ,stotzingen1 of ,maria-laach1 was elected by seventy-five votes4 ,causa finita est4 ,our work finished1 ,i had a few days to renew old happy memories of ,rome1 greatly changed 7,i suppose materially for the better7 since my first visit in #ahge4 ,i went the round of the great basilicas1 and explored the vast cemetery of ,s4 ,lorenzo in quest of the grave of my uncle ,david1#b laid to rest there fourty-four years before4 ,i found it in good repair1 with flowering shrubs growing round it1 and read with interest the beautiful ,latin epitaph1 written by the scholarly pen of ,archbishop ,manning1 who had received him into the ,church1 and afterwards officiated at his simple funeral4 ,i celebrated the ,whitsuntide solemnities in our own church of ,st4 ,anselm1 much impressed by the virile and sonorous chant of the monastic choir4 #bdi ,i left ,rome a few days later1 travelling by night to ,milan1 where ,i said mass early in the duomo--more impressive than ,i had ever yet seen it in the dull morning light1 with the vast spaces in deep shadow1 and the great jewelled windows gleaming faintly through the murk4 ,from ,milan a long and fatiguing journey brought me to ,maredsous1 the famous ,belgian abbey which ,i had seen only once since ,i had spent four months there as a young monk thirty years before4 ,the vast pile of building1 of dark slate-coloured stone in the severest ,gothic1 seemed to have altered little since #ahhc 7there is something singularly1 almost appallingly1 unchangeable about these great monasteries72 but of course the trees about it had grown1 and there were additions near by--one the interesting school of arts and crafts directed by the monks1 where ,i saw excellent goldsmiths' and enamel work done by the pupils1 as well as fine embroideries4 ,another new and striking feature was the nuns' abbey1 a quarter of a mile away1 with a large and beautiful church open to the public4 ,i found here an ,english portress1 with the ,english name of ,sister ,winifred2 and the abbess1 a sister of our good abbot-primate in ,rome1 spoke ,english well2 but she persuaded me 7after cake and wine7 into giving a conference in ,french to her community1 about our doings at ,monte ,cassino and ,rome4 ,it was interesting to pass straight1 as ,i did1 from a great modern abbey in being to the impressive remains of our cathedral priory at ,canterbury1 and to sleep in an ,elizabethan bedroom constructed within the ancient guest-hall of the monks4 ,my kind host1 ,canon ,moore1 devoted a day to showing #bej me the wonders of his cathedral2 and a party of cathedral dignitaries 7and their wives7 were asked to meet me at dinner4 ,i had some talk with a pleasant1 though minor1 canon1#c who had been for a time in charge of our choir at ,magdalen4 ,from ,canterbury ,i went on to ,douai ,abbey1 to preside at their school prize-giving1 and then to keep ,st4 ,philip's festa with the ,london ,oratorians1 who had invited a ,fort ,augustus monk 7,dom ,maurus ,caruana#d7 to preach this year the panegyric of their patron saint4 ,i look back on these ,oratory festivals as among the pleasantest of ,london summer days--the marble altars in the great church aglow with roses and lilies and orchids2 music of the best from the unrivalled choir3#e sometimes a really eloquent sermon1 and luncheon afterwards1 in company with all that was best in the ,catholic society of the day1 in the cool spacious refectory1 hung round with portraits of ,faber and ,dalgairns and ,knox and other eminent ,oratorians4 ,i sat on this occasion next a kindly litterateur and critic--so kindly a one that even when he does attack you 7as ,russell ,lowell put it7 you doubt if the toes ,that are trodden upon are your own or your foe's4 #bea ,we spoke of printers' perennial errors2 and he quoted two new to me--one from the prospectus of a new company3 ,six thousand snares of five pounds each2 and the other from a speech of ,lord ,carnarvon3 ,every clergyman is expected nowadays to have the intellect and wisdom of a ,jeremy ,taylor--the last two words being transformed by a reporter into journeyman tailor6 ,the word clergyman 7in these days somewhat discredited7 suggested to my friend ,tennyson's dictum3 ,the majority of ,englishmen think of ,god as an immeasurable clergyman in a white tie2 and to me a line from the same poet's ,may ,queen1 which had always seemed to me the ne plus ultra of bathos3#f ,and that good man1 the clergyman1 has spoken words of peace4 ,i stayed a night at ,kelburn on my way north to congratulate my brother-in-law1 as it was not only his eightieth birthday1 but his fortieth wedding-anniversary also fell this year4 ,i was glad to find myself at home again after five weeks' absence2 but it was only for a few weeks1 as ,i had to go to ,yorkshire in ,june1 for the quinquennial ,general ,chapter of our ,order at ,ampleforth1 where our first business was to re-elect and install ,abbot ,gasquet as our abbot-president4#g ,i attended1 a few days later1 #beb a dinner of our ,catholic ,etonian ,association4 ,shane ,leslie and 7,mgr47 ,hugh ,benson both made capital speeches1 and ,i had the honour of proposing ,floreat ,etona4 ,george ,lane ,fox 7a quondam captain of the boats7 was our president2 and it was interesting to learn that among ,catholic ,etonians were three old captains of oppidans1 ,lords ,abingdon and ,north1 and ,sir ,francis ,burnand4 ,i stayed for this function with the kind ,oratorians1 who always had one or two ,etonians in their community4#h ,their spacious house was delightfully quiet1 and the verdant shady garden might have been two miles1 instead of a bare two hundred yards1 from the bustle and traffic of ,brompton ,road4 ,i assisted next day in their church at the marriage of another ,etonian ,catholic1 ,sir ,joseph ,tichborne1 and looked with interest on the smart young lifeguardsman1 son of the baby defendant in the famous lawsuit more than forty years before4 ,it is hard now to realize the furore caused by the great ,tichborne ,case1 which sapped old friendships and engendered lasting animosities among people who had no earthly connection with it#i--;for the old ,english ,catholic families1 which were #bec closely interested in the matter1 took it very quietly and never discussed it in public4 ,i have never known since any popular excitement in the least like it4 ,i was back at ,fort ,augustus before the end of ,june2 and the summer and autumn 7both wonderfully fine this year7 passed quickly and happily4 ,long sunshiny days brought us1 as always1 many visitors1 among the first being the large contingent of ,glasgow ,catholics who came as usual1 during their ,fair ,week1 to spend some days at our abbey1 partly in pious exercises and partly in enjoyable excursions4 ,our most notable guest this year was perhaps the young ,king of ,uganda 7,i believe his proper title was not ,king but ,kabaka71 who came to ,fort ,augustus for a week-end with his dusky suite1 and spent some hours with us--a tall1 graceful and agreeable1 but very shy1 youth in a lovely robe of peacock blue 7he had arrived at the inn the night before wearing a dingy covert-coat over a sort of white cassock74 ,one of his fellow-chiefs1 ,i think the only ,catholic of the party1 had a huge rosary slung round his neck during the visit to our monastery4 ,another distinguished visitor was ,cardinal ,bourne1 whose clerical secretary had been driving him 7incog47 all over the ,highlands1 and over all sorts of roads1 in a little two-seater motor4 ,this had to go into hospital on their arrival2 but through the kindness of an ,american neighbour ,i was able to escort our guests in a roomy ,fiat to ,glengarry 7our most notable beauty-spot71 and to the famous little inn1 embowered in woods on the edge of the amber rushing ,garry1 where there were many notable names in the visitors' book1 though #bed not1 ,i think1 up till then the signature of a ,prince of the ,roman ,church4 ,his ,eminence's visit synchronized with our ,highland ,games and annual concert1 both of which he honoured with his presence2 and next day he and his faithful monsignor trundled off westwards in their little car1 much pleased 7as we all were also7 with their brief sojourn in our abbey guest-house4 ,apart from the normal duties incumbent on the head of a monastic community1 ,i had1 from the time of first taking the reins1 placed three objects in the forefront of my hopes and aspirations1 and had endeavoured never to lose sight of them4 ,these were1 first1 an increase in our numbers by the admission of suitable aspirants to our life2 secondly1 the renovation and utilization of the long derelict buildings of the abbey-school1 and the reopening of the school itself as soon as feasible2 and thirdly1 the hastening of the long anticipated day when work should be resumed on our abandoned church1 and a part of it1 at least1 completed and opened for ,divine ,service4 ,thanks to the goodwill and support of my own brethren1 and to the interested sympathy of many friends outside1 ,i had the happiness of seeing all these hopes in a fair way to be realized within a twelvemonth of my receiving the abbatial benediction4 ,four of our first year's batch of novices were ultimately admitted to profession and to holy orders3 they were joined by two priests from the ,scottish mission1 both of whom took their vows after due probation2 while there were also affiliated to our community two young ,english monks from a ,german monastery near ,birmingham1 as well as a novice from the monastery of ,caldey1 in ,south #bee ,wales1 almost all the members of which had1 with their superior1 made their submission to the ,catholic ,church in the previous year4#aj ,we were all agreed in the wish and hope that the eminently ,benedictine work of the education of youth within our own abbey walls1 discontinued for several years1 should be resumed as soon as circumstances permitted4 ,carpenters and painters1 plasterers and plumbers1 were soon busily engaged at the much-needed work of repair and restoration4 ,the buildings were practically ready for occupation in the summer of #aiad2 but our hopes of reopening the school a few months later were frustrated by the world-stirring events of ,july and ,august of that year4 ,it was a great satisfaction to all of us to be able1 a little later1 to place our renovated college at the disposal of the ,red ,cross1 and to see it utilized as an ,auxiliary ,hospital1 first for the wounded soldiers of our gallant ,belgian allies1 and then for the wounded of our own armies4#aa ,the date of resuming the long suspended work on the fabric of our greatly-needed church1 which ,i had at least as much at heart as the two other objects already mentioned1 depended1 of course1 on the slow but steady increase of our building-fund2 and there were always willing helpers1 both within and without our community1 toward the ingathering of a sum without which it would have been #bef imprudent to recommence operations4 ,some of our fathers showed most commendable zeal and energy in the not very pleasant or grateful task of begging3 they planted and watered1 and ,god certainly sent the increase4 ,among other efforts1 a great garden fete was organized at ,terregles1 near ,dumfries1 the beautiful old seat of the ,maxwell-,stuarts4 ,i opened the proceedings3 the day was lovely and the grounds thronged1 and a very substantial sum was realized for our fund4 ,it was a great joy to us all when1 thanks to the success of this and other schemes1 we were at length able to see our way 7let me use the obnoxious phrase with gratitude for once67 to approve of the new plans--a modification of1 or rather a complete departure from1 ,pugin's elaborate ,gothic designs1 and to see our massive ,norman choir gradually rising in its severe and solid beauty4 ,the actual commencement of the work was delayed by a curious incident--the appearance on the far horizon of a supposed benefactress1 said to be prepared to provide funds to an untold amount for the erection of our church1 on a plan approved by herself4 ,i had actually to go to ,harrogate to discuss this ,utopian scheme--not with the mysterious lady in person1 but with a friend who was supposed to represent her4 ,i never even heard her name1 but have every reason to suppose that it was ,mrs4 ,harris6 ,anyhow the next thing ,i heard was that she had sailed 7,i think7 for ,china1 and we never saw1 as the saying goes1 the colour of her money4 ,i do not think that we had ever really expected to1 so the disappointment was the less2 and there was no worse consequence than a little delay which we could very well put up with after waiting for #beg so many years to get the builders to work again4 ,the only event outside our own circle which ,i recall in the later months of #aiac was the solemn blessing of the new abbot of ,douai 7an old friend and fellow-novice of mine71 at which ,i assisted in ,october4 ,the ceremony and subsequent luncheon lasted for nearly five solid hours1 and ,i began to think that ,i was getting too old for such protracted functions6 though ,i found the monks of the ,berkshire abbey1 as always1 most kind1 considerate and hospitable4 ,staying at ,keir on my way home1 ,i found a big shooting-party assembled--,tullibardines1 ,elphinstones1 ,lovats1 ,shaw ,stewarts and others4 ,all day long they were banging at pheasants 7how remote those days of battues seem in #aibb67 and in the evening there were ghost-stories and music1 ,lady ,tullibardine's piano-playing and singing 7of very high quality indeed7 giving especial pleasure to her hearers4 ,on our national festival of ,st4 ,andrew ,i had the pleasure of admitting two novices to profession--the first ceremony of the kind since #aijh4 ,we kept also this month the silver jubilee of two of our fathers1 of whom one had been born without an ear 7in the musical sense71 and had never sung mass in his life1 but on this unique occasion chanted the ,gospel as deacon4 ,december brought wild and stormy weather1 which did not1 however1 interfere with our customary activities2 and many of our fathers were at this time out giving missions1 or temporary assistance to invalided or absent priests4 ,one of my ,boyle nephews--a flying-man like his younger brother--was married this month #beh to the daughter of an ,australian judge3#ab ,i could not be present1 but telegraphed to him1 ,the best of luck to you on earth and in the air6 ,an unwelcome ,december visitant was an epidemic of gastric influenza1 which prostrated some of our community for a week or two2 but all were recovered1 and most of our wanderers returned1 for the ,christmas festival--a real old-fashioned one as regarded the weather1 with hard frost and snow lying seven inches deep4 ,this was a rather unusual state of things at ,fort ,augustus1 where the comparatively high temperature of ,loch ,ness 7never known to freeze even in the hardest winters7 seemed to affect the whole district4#ac ,lochaber too1 where winter is as a rule wild and wet rather than cold1 was this year frostbound and snowed up2 and our afternoon diversion1 on a ,sunday which ,i spent there1 was to trudge a mile or two through the snow and see the red deer fed by hand--a pretty and unusual spectacle4 ,among the domestic incidents of the ,new ,year was the opening of our village drill-hall1 to be available to all denominations for recreational purposes4 ,hitherto the ,churches had run their #bei own halls on more or less exclusive lines2 but in the new one the ,protestant lion was to lie down1 so to speak1 with the ,catholic lamb 7or vice versa67 and all was to be harmony and peace4 ,i inaugurated the new era by a lantern-lecture on ,unknown ,brazil1 which a kindly newspaper report described as brimful of information and sparkling with anecdote and humour6 ,it was anyhow a successful start and the hall proved a really valuable addition to our village assets4 ,i was unable to attend the next lecture--a most interesting illustrated history of the old ,fort--being called south to attend the funeral of the ,bishop of ,galloway1 an old and faithful friend of our house1 with whom ,i had been intimate for close on forty years4 ,the funeral procession1 with crucifix and choir1 vested clergy and mitred prelates1 passing through the streets of ,dumfries thronged with silent mourners1 was one of the most remarkable spectacles ,i ever witnessed in ,scotland4 ,bishop ,turner had long been on terms of close friendship with the ,bute family2 but ,bute and his brothers1 being all abroad1 were represented by their brother-in-law ,colin ,mac,rae4 ,i went south from ,dumfries1 having some business with ,cardinal ,bourne1 who talked1 inter alia1 of the chapel 7,st4 ,andrew's7 in his cathedral which was being adorned at ,bute's expense1 and of the question whether the numerous texts should be in ,latin or ,english4 ,i was all for ,latin in the metropolitan cathedral of the ,empire1 the resort of worshippers of every tongue and every nation4 ,his ,eminence1 however1 favoured ,english1 and ,i 7like ,mr4 ,alfred ,jingle7 did not presume to dictate4#ad ,i was elected this #bfj week a member of the ,oxford and ,cambridge ,club1 of which the big1 quiet1 and well-furnished library was to me the chief attraction4 ,the ,protestant drum had been1 ,i was assured1 if not beaten1 at least discreetly tapped1 by a small clique of members in connection with my candidature--a curious fact in what somebody describes as the so-called twentieth century2 but a gracefully-worded telegram from my proposer and seconder#ae informed me that the plot 7if there ever was one1 which ,i rather doubted7 had failed4 ,i went to ,arundel for the ,lourdes festival1 always kept solemnly there2 found the kind ,duke and ,duchess encircled1 as usual1 by a cloud of youthful ,maxwells1 and heard ,bernard ,vaughan 7just returned from the ,u4,s4,a47 preach eloquently on ,the claims of the ,church with a distinctly ,american accent1 and1 later on1 regale us in the smoking-room with a choice collection of ,american chestnuts6 ,i got back to our abbey just in time to give the last blessing to our good old brother ,nathalan1 who died at the age of ninety-nine1 the patriarch of the ,benedictine ,order in these islands and possibly in ,christendom4 ,a native of ,glengairn1 he spoke the ,aberdeenshire idiom of his mother-,gaelic with remarkable purity and fluency2 and he could talk for hours about beasts and birds1 old smuggling adventures1 second sight1 and cognate subjects4 ,his grandfather had fought for ,prince ,charlie at ,culloden2 and he knew the name and history of #bfa every ,glengairn man who had taken part in that historic battle4 ,a man of robust faith and deep practical piety1 he was content and happy in the monastery1 which he had only entered when well over seventy4 ,he was totally blind 7though otherwise in good health7 for some time before his death2 and morning after morning his bowed and venerable figure1 supported by a younger brother1 might be seen wending its way to the chapel where he daily heard mass and received ,holy ,communion4 ,i was glad to be at home for the closing hours of the life of the good simple old man1 whose death made a felt blank in the family circle of our community4 ,the early months of the eventful year #aiad passed quickly and quietly enough at our ,highland abbey4 ,we resolved soon after ,easter to accept the contract for the building of the choir of our church--a venture of faith1 for the necessary sum was not yet all in hand2 but we felt that we were justified in making a start4 ,a few days later came the interesting and gratifying news that the elevation of ,abbot ,gasquet to the ,cardinalate--often rumoured in recent years--was actually decided on4 ,this entailed an extraordinary meeting of ,chapter in connection with the ,abbot-president's resignation of that office2 and going south to attend it1 ,i took the occasion of accepting an invitation to officiate at the ,corpus ,christi procession at ,arundel4 ,it was a curiously impressive function in that old-world ,english town3 the long cortege of clergy and choristers and people1 with the tall ,venetian lanterns1 scarlet and gold1 waving above their heads as they passed slowly1 to the sounds of sacred psalmody1 under the grey walls of the castle and back into the great church of #bfb ,st4 ,philip4 ,i went on from ,arundel to ,oxford1 to stay with ,father ,maturin1 the acting ,catholic chaplain there 7his undergraduate flock now numbered nearly a hundred71 and was delighted to see the good work he was doing4 ,one was always sure of a good story from him2 and a propos of his wish to introduce hymn-singing at his ,sunday services1 he told me of the ,sunday-school superintendent who1 dissatisfied with the children's dead-alive singing of the well-known temperance hymn1 ,little ,drops of ,water1 himself repeated the first line1 adding1 ,now1 please1 put a little spirit into it6 ,my old tale of the don who objected to men coming to church in slippers reminded him1 he said1 of a college dean he had heard of in his ,cowley days1 who1 to an undergraduate asking leave to go down to attend his great-aunt's funeral1 replied after some hesitation1 ,well1 you may go2 but ,i must say ,i do wish it had been for a nearer relation6#af ,the ,june of #aiad was exceptionally hot1 and ,i found the long journey to the ,highlands so intolerably tedious and dusty that ,i could not resist jumping out of the train at the head of ,loch ,lomond1 and staying the night there4 ,i wrote on a picture postcard to an editorial friend in ,london--not for publication1 but just to tantalize him in his stuffy sanctum in ,fleet ,street3 #bfc ,delightful little ,highland inn4 ,just dined--puree aux pois1 a ,loch ,lomond trout 7pink and flaky71 an excellent mutton chop1 and gooseberry pie4 ,here is a view of ,loch ,lomond from my window1 but the ,ben has its lace nightcap on4 ,the colours are simply exquisite4#ag ,later in the summer ,i attended a great gathering at ,downside 7fifteen bishops and ten abbots were guests of the abbey7 for the solemn reception of ,cardinal ,gasquet at his mother-house4 ,there were imposing church functions1 of course1 concerts1 speeches galore1 and on the closing day of the festivities a luncheon-party of six hundred1 after which we 7,cardinal1 bishops1 and abbots7 motored off in clouds of dust for ,bristol and ,cardiff1 for the opening of the ,eucharistic ,congress there4 ,i stayed for the week at the castle1 where were also ,cardinals ,bourne and ,gasquet1 the ,gainsboroughs1 and others2 the ,butes gave a banquet one evening1 followed by a great reception1 in honour of the assembled dignitaries1 who were also entertained by the ,lord ,mayor in the splendid town hall4 ,just a fortnight after the closing of the ,congress1 ,germany declared war on ,russia and ,france2 and three days later1 on the midnight which ushered in the feast-day of ,saint ,oswald1 the ,english soldier-saint and martyr1 ,britain took up arms against ,germany4 ,jacta est alea6 ,the reverberations of the ,great ,war were not unfelt even in our quiet home among the ,highland hills2 and our life1 like the life of every class of the community in those years of storm and stress1 was affected profoundly1 and in many ways1 by the #bfd struggle which for four long years was rending the civilized world4 ,a detailed record of those years of war1 even so far as we were touched by it1 would be out of place in this chronicle of peaceful days4 ,many of our former pupils1 and some who had worn our habit and shared our life in the cloister1 fought1 and more than one died1 for king and country3 a band of devoted priests--few indeed1 yet a large proportion of our total number--worked throughout the war1 at home and abroad1 as chaplains in the army and the navy1 two of them being severely wounded1 and two decorated by the ,king for their good service2 and1 finally1 we who perforce remained at home had the consolation and satisfaction of receiving into our provisional hospital a long succession of wounded soldiers1 ,belgian and ,british1 and of co-operating with the good people of our village and neighbourhood in the work of tending and succouring them4 ,so1 according to our measure1 we did our bit like the rest1 and could feel1 when the day of peace at length dawned1 that we had tried to render service to our country at a time when she had a right to the service of all her sons4 99 99 99 99 99 ,i write down these closing memories in our monastery under the ,southern ,cross1 in the great ,south ,american city where my brethren in ,saint ,benedict1 active and devoted men1 but far too few for the ever-growing work that lies ready to their hands1 are leading the same life of prayer and liturgy1 untiring1 pastoral labour1 and the education of the young in religion and letters1 which has been the mission of our ,order all through the ,christian centuries4 ,it is high noon on this ,brazilian summer's #bfe day1 and the fierce sun beats down from a cloudless sky on the luxuriant tropical garden which glows beneath the window of my quiet cell4 ,at the foot of the last page ,i inscribe the same words as the monastic annalist inscribed of old beneath the laboriously-written manuscript which had been the work of his life3 ,explicit chronicon lx4 annorum ,deus misericordie miserere miseri scriptoris4 ,and then1 as1 my task completed1 ,i lay down my weary pen1 there come into my mind some other words--those of a great thinker and a great writer of our own time3 ,our life is planted on the surface of a whirling sphere3 our prayer is to find its tranquil centre1 and revolve no more4 ,so may it be6 #a ,the good old abbot died three months later1 on ,august #ac1 #aiac4 #b ,colonel ,david ,hunter-,blair of the ,scots ,fusilier ,guards1 whose conversion to ,catholicism1 when ,i was a boy at ,eton1 had made a great impression on me4 ,he died of consumption at ,rome on ,march #ca1 #ahfi4 #c ,we implore ,thy protection also1 petitioned a certain ,dean at family prayers1 for the minor canons of this cathedral2 for even they1 ,o ,lord1 are ,thy creatures4 #d ,appointed ,archbishop-bishop of ,malta in #aiad4 #e ,i liked to hear once-a-year 7not oftener7 the prolonged musical masses which were the festival use at the ,oratory4 ,once1 arriving rather late at the church1 ,i found an old friend 7a ,gregorian-lover like myself7 waiting in the porch1 and asked him how far the service had progressed4 ,thank ,god6 said old ,w---- ,p---- devoutly1 the worst is over--they have just finished the ,gloria6 #f ,it can be matched1 ,i think1 by two lines from a university prize poem--not1 of course1 by a poet laureate6--on the ,sailing of the ,pilgrim ,fathers3 ,thus1 ever guided by the hand of ,god1 ,they sailed along until they reached ,cape ,cod6 #g ,nine months later he was elevated to the ,cardinalate1 when he had1 of course1 to resign his presidency of the ,english ,benedictine ,congregation4 #h ,at one time there were as many as eight2 and ,i remember one of them 7who had himself been in the ,boats at ,eton71 saying that they wanted only a ninth to complete the crew6 #i ,i recall one engagement broken off in consequence2 and also a rift between two lifelong friends which still remained unhealed long after the unhappy nobleman languishing in prison 7as his most notorious supporter used to call him7 had been consigned to the limbo of penal servitude4 ,the cost of the two trials was said to be at least ,l#bjj1jjj1 and seriously crippled the valuable ,tichborne estates for a whole generation4 ,my father prohibited the public discussion of the case at ,blairquhan1 either in dining-room or smoking-room1 or even at a shooting-luncheon in the open air6 #aj ,the ,caldey novice1 and one of the affiliated brothers from ,erdington ,abbey1 both left us1 after the outbreak of the ,great ,war1 and joined the army2 and the former was killed on active service4 #aa ,the school was finally reopened under my successor1 in #aibj4 #ab ,and an heiress--at least so a brother wrote to me4 ,the lady's name was ,hodges2 and he added 7but ,i think this was mere banter7 that the question was1 if ,jack had to assume his wife's name1 whether they would be known as ,boyle-,hodges or ,hodges-,boyle6 #ac ,our first prior1 ,dom ,jerome ,vaughan1 used to be at much pains to convince his incredulous friends in the south of the mildness of the ,fort ,augustus winter4 ,i remember his writing to the prior of ,belmont1 when ,i was a novice there1 enclosing daisies picked on ,christmas ,day4 ,unluckily the same post brought another letter from ,fort ,augustus1 mentioning that the frost was so severe that all the beer was frozen in the cellar6 #ad ,they were1 as a matter of fact1 inscribed in ,english1 as were also the names of the ,scottish saints on the pictured walls4 ,the chapel was opened on ,st4 ,andrew's ,day1 #aiae4 #ae ,many congratulations both to you and to the club1 it ran4 #af ,it was a don of this type who was reported to have written1 in a letter of condolence to the father of an undergraduate who had been drowned in ,sandford ,lasher3 ,as your son had unfortunately failed to satisfy the examiners in ,responsions1 he would have had to go down in any case6 ,poor ,father ,maturin6 his love of a joke and other good qualities were extinguished 7in this life7 by the sinking of ,lusitania eleven months later4 #ag ,my friend did print it in his paper1 adding1 ,to read this makes one hungry for ,highland air and ,highland fare4 #bfg ,appendix ,i4 ,,page #hf4 ,,novissima ,,verba 7,,last ,,words ,,of ,,forty ,,famous ,,men7 ,adam1 ,alexander 7the famous schoolmaster7 444 ,it grows dark1 boys3 you may go4 ,addison1 ,joseph 444 ,see how a ,christian can die6 ,albert ,prince ,consort 444 ,liebes gutes ,frauchen6 ,augustus 7,emperor7 444 ,plaudite6 ,bede 7,the ,venerable7 444 ,consummatum est4 ,bossuet1 ,benigne 444 ,fiat ,voluntas ,tua6 ,bronte1 ,charlotte 7to her husband7 444 ,i am not going to die1 am ,i8 ,he will not separate us1 we have been so happy4 ,byron 7,lord7 444 ,i think ,i will go to sleep4 ,charles ,,ii4 7,king7 444 ,don't let poor ,nellie starve4 ,charles ,v4 7,emperor7 444 ,ay1 ,jesus6 ,chesterfield 7,lord7 444 ,give ,dayrolles a chair4 ,cicero 444 ,causa causarum1 miserere mei6 ,darwin1 ,charles ,b4 444 ,i am not in the least afraid to die4 ,devonshire 7#hth ,duke of7 444 ,well1 the game is over1 and ,i am not sorry4 ,disraeli1 ,benjamin 444 ,i am overwhelmed6 ,eliot1 ,george 444 ,tell the doctors that ,i have great pain in the left side4 ,etty1 ,william 7painter7 444 ,wonderful--wonderful6 this death4 ,frederick the ,great 444 ,la montagne est passee2 nous irons mieux4 #bfh ,george ,,iv4 7,king7 444 ,watty1 what is this8 ,it is death1 my boy3 they have deceived me4 ,gladstone1 ,w4 ,e4 444 ,prions--commencons--,our ,father4 ,goethe1 ,w4 von 444 ,draw back the curtains1 and let in more light4 ,goldsmith1 ,oliver 7to the question1 ,is your mind at ease8 in a melancholy voice7 444 ,no1 it is not4 ,haydn1 ,joseph 444 ,god preserve the ,emperor6 ,hood1 ,thomas 7in a tone of relief7 444 ,dying--dying4 ,humboldt1 ,a4 von 444 ,wie herrlich diese ,strahlen6 sie schienen die ,erde zum ,himmel zu rufen4 ,jerrold1 ,douglas1 asked how he felt1 said he felt like one who was waiting and was waited for4 ,johnson1 ,samuel 444 ,god bless you6 ,keats1 ,john 444 ,i feel the flowers growing over me4 ,knox1 ,john 444 about #aa of the clock gave a deep sigh1 exclaimed1 ',now it is come1' and presently expired4 ,lacordaire1 ,henri 444 ,mon ,dieu6 mon ,dieu6 ouvrez-moi1 ouvrez-moi4 ,mackintosh1 ,sir ,james 444 ,happy6 ,mary ,queen of ,scots 444 ,in ,te1 ,domine1 speravi4 ,mathews1 ,charles 444 ,i am ready4 ,mezzofanti 7,cardinal7 444 ,andiamo1 andiamo presto in ,paradiso6 ,mirabeau1 ,victor 444 ,let me die to the sounds of delicious music4 ,napoleon ,bonaparte 444 ,tete d'armee4 ,pope1 ,alexander 444 ,there is nothing meritorious but virtue and friendship2 and indeed friendship itself is but a part of virtue4 ,rabelais 444 ,je vais querir le grand peut-etre4 ,scott1 ,walter 444 ,god bless you6 ,tasso1 ,torquato 444 ,in manus ,tuas1 ,domine4 ,wordsworth1 ,william 444 ,god bless you6 ,ximenes1 ,cardinal 444 ,in ,te1 ,domine1 speravi4 #bfi ,,ii4 ,,page #acf4 ,,darwin',s ,,credo ,science and ,christ have nothing to do with each other1 except in as far as the habit of scientific investigation makes a man cautious about accepting any proofs4 ,as far as ,i am concerned1 ,i do not believe that any revelation has ever been made4 ,with regard to a future life1 every one must draw his own conclusions from vague and contradictory probabilities4--7,letter to a ,jena student1 dated ,june #eth1 #ahgi47 ,mr4 ,darwin was much less reticent to myself than in his letter to ,jena4 ,he distinctly stated that1 in his opinion1 a vital or somatic principle1 apart from the somatic energy1 had no more locus standi in the human than in any other races of the animal kingdom--a conclusion that seems a mere corollary of1 and indeed a position tantamount with1 his essential doctrine of human and bestial identity of nature and genesis4--7,dr4 ,robert ,lewins1 in the ,journal of ,science47 ,it may be instructive to subjoin to the above ,credo of ,darwin those of three other eminent ,victorians1 whom the present generation would probably pronounce it unkind and ill-mannered to brand as atheistical or un-,christian4 ,let them speak for themselves3-- ,stuart ,mill3 ,this world is a bungled business1 in which no clear-sighted man can see any signs either of wisdom or of ,god4 ,huxley3 ,scepticism is the highest of duties3 blind faith the one unpardonable sin4 #bgj ,matthew ,arnold3 ,the existence of ,god is an unverifiable hypothesis4 ,dr4 ,liddon1 preaching in ,st4 ,paul's ,cathedral on the ,sunday after ,darwin's death1 devoted his matchless oratory to a eulogy in which there was not the remotest reference to the fact that the subject of it was a man who had formally repudiated not only ,christianity but revealed religion4 ,here are the eloquent canon's opening words3-- ,these reflections may naturally lead us to think of the eminent man1 whose death during the past week is an event of ,european importance2 since he is the author of nothing less than a revolution in the modern way of treating a large district of thought1 while his works have shed high distinction on ,english science4 ,dr4 ,laing1 of ,cambridge ,university1 on the other hand1 expressed with refreshing candour his objections to the proposed interment of ,darwin in ,westminster ,abbey3-- ,they urged his claim to ,abbey honours on the very ground of his having been the chief promoter of the atheistic mock-doctrines of evolution of species and the ape-descent of man4 ,it is1 therefore1 as the high priest of dirt-worship that the ,english nation has assigned to him the privilege of being interred in a temple dedicated to the service of his ,creator4 #bga ,,index ,abbotsford1 #eb1 #ed1 #gd ,aberdeen1 ,bishop 7,chisholm7 of1 #gc1 #abd1 #aci1 #adi ,abingdon1 #gth ,earl of1 #cd1 #beb ,abruzzi1 ,duca dei1 #hb ,aix-les-bains1 visit to1 #bbh ,amelie of ,portugal1 ,queen1 #bbf ,ampleforth ,abbey1 #abj1 #ach1 #aec1 #bja1 #bag2 jubilee of1 #bcj1 #bea ,anderson1 ,mary 7,mme4 ,navarro71 #aec ,angus1 ,rev4 ,george1 #ai note1 #abb2 death of1 #abd note1 #ach1 #aif1 #bbd1 #bch ,anson1 ,sir ,william1 ,m4,p41 #ach ,aragon1 ,r4,m4,s4,p41 #aee ,argyll and the ,isles1 ,bishop 7,smith7 of1 #bdj ,arthur of ,connaught1 ,prince1 #ib2 ,princess1 #bbe ,arundel ,castle1 #c1 #h1 #ac1 #db1 #ea1 #fe1 #aje1 #ajh1 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,castle1 #gb ,norwich1 ,st4 ,john's ,church at1 #bjb ,nuneham ,park1 #ci ,oakamoor ,college1 #ade1 #bab1 #bca ,odo1 ,father1 ,o4,s4,b41 #bcc1 #bcd ,olinda 7,brazil71 #aec1 #aee1 #aeg1 #ahg ,oman1 ,professor1 #ij1 #bja ,oratory 7,birmingham71 #ge1 #aba1 #add ,oratory 7,london71 #aih1 #bej ,orr-,ewing1 ,charles1 ,m4,p41 #h ,osterley ,park1 #ba ,o',sullivan ,beare1 ,the1 #aed note ,oxford1 ,benedictine ,hall at1 #d2 chancellor of1 #e2 floods at1 #aj2 portraits at1 #cd2 boy-prodigies at1 #ch2 pageant at1 #hi-ia ,oxford and ,cambridge ,club1 #bfj ,pageant at ,warwick1 #gj2 ,oxford1 #hi2 ,bury ,st4 ,edmunds1 #ia2 ,cardiff1 #adf ,paris1 pictures at1 #bcj ,parker1 ,d4 ,anselm1 #abg ,patterson1 ,bishop1 #ba ,pelham1 ,professor1 death of1 #hc ,penha ,longa1 ,condessa de1 #bbg ,pernambuco 7,brazil71 #aef1 #ahg ,phillimore1 ,professor ,j4 ,s41 #ee ,pius ,x1 ,pope1 #ae1 #ag1 #bje1 #bdf ,plowden1 ,alfred1 #bi ,ponsonby1 ,sir ,frederick1 #abh1 #aec ,portugal1 murder of ,king of1 #ajg ,portugal1 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,ernest1 #add ,sherborne1 ,susan ,lady1 death of1 #hc ,shrewsbury1 #ajth ,earl of1 #ade ,simeon1 ,john1 married1 #adj ,simonetti1 ,signor1 #gg ,sinclair1 ,archdeacon ,john1 #ff ,skene1 ,felicia1 #ec note ,smith of ,wadham1 ,f4 ,e41 #fe ,somerset1 #aeth ,duke of1 #aeb ,s4 ,paulo 7,brazil71 #aef et seq4 ,stafford1 ,marquis of1 married1 #bbd ,stair1 #ajth and #aath ,earls of1 #ed note1 #abc ,stirlings of ,keir1 #agf1 #bje1 #bab1 #bcf ,stonyhurst ,college1 #bba ,stotzingen1 ,abbot von1 #bdh ,stronlairg1 #bad ,sutherland1 #dth ,duke of1 #bbe ,sutherland1 ,anne ,duchess of1 #aaa note2 ,millicent ,duchess of1 #bj1 #bbd ,sven ,hedin1 at ,oxford1 #ace ,talbot1 ,lord and ,lady ,edmund1 #c1 #fa1 #bae ,talcott1 ,dr4 ,selden1 on early rising1 #ig note ,teck1 ,princess ,alexander of1 #ej ,temple1 widow of ,archbishop1 #aac ,terregles1 #bef ,tichborne1 ,sir ,joseph1 #beb ,tredegar1 ,viscount1 #adf ,tree1 ,beerbohm1 #da ,tullibardine1 ,marchioness of1 #beg ,twain1 ,mark1 at ,oxford1 #ia1 #ib ,tylee1 ,monsignor1 #e1 #f note ,uganda1 ,king of1 at ,fort ,augustus1 #bec ,university ,college ,school1 #adb ,ushaw ,college1 #bc ,vaughan1 ,father ,bernard1 #cg1 #gi1 #bfa2 ,prior ,jerome1 #beh note2 ,charles1 married1 #ajg2 ,bishop ,john1 #bae2 ,rev4 ,kenelm1 #acc ,venice1 visit to1 #bdb ,vesey1 ,hon4 ,t4 ,e41 married1 #bag ,victory1 ,h4,m4,s41 #aaj ,wales1 ,h4,r4,h4 ,prince of1 #bab1 #bbb ,walmesley1 ,mrs4 ,robert1 #c ,walsh1 ,archbishop1 #ff ,waltham ,abbey1 #adh ,ward1 ,wilfrid1 #fj1 #acd ,ware1 ,st4 ,edmund's ,college1 #bbb ,warre1 ,dr4 ,edmond1 #ea ,warwick1 pageant at1 #gj ,wauchope of ,niddrie1 ,mrs41 #aja1 #aeb ,wells1 ,j41 #fj ,westminster ,cathedral1 #c1 #gd1 #hi1 #ajg1 #bei ,weston ,birt1 #bf ,wiesbaden1 visit to1 #ahi-aia ,wilberforce1 ,bishop ,samuel1 #aba1 #abh ,wilkinson1 ,cicely ,lady1 #aic ,william ,,ii1 ,emperor1 and ,bismarck1 #bd2 at ,naples1 #da ,willoughby de ,broke1 ,lord and ,lady1 #ga ,wimborne1 ,lord1 #ii ,winchilsea1 ,countess of1 #de ,woodburn1 #a1 #aec1 #bjc ,woodchester ,priory1 #bf ,worcester1 ,bishop of1 and ,lady ,barbara ,yeatman-,biggs1 #ff ,wyndham1 ,sir ,charles1 #dj ,wyndham1 ,george1 #ha ,wytham ,abbey1 #ce ,yew ,luk ,lin 7,chinese ,minister71 #bbe ,york1 ,archbishop 7,lang7 of1 #baf ,printed in ,great ,britain by ,butler ,tanner1 ,frome and ,london ,telegrams3 ,scholarly1 ,wesdo1 ,london #da and #dc ,maddox ,street1 ,telephone3 #ahhc ,mayfair4 ,london1 ,w4 #a4 ,march1 #aibb4 ,messrs4 ,edward ,arnold ,co4's ,,spring ,,announcements1 #aibb ,,mount ,,everest ,the ,reconnaissance1 #aiba4 ,by ,,lieut4-,,colonel ,c4 ,k4 ,,howard-,,bury1 ,d4,s4,o41 ,,and ,,other ,,members ,,of ,,the ,,expedition4 ,with #cc full-page illustrations and maps4 ,medium #hvo4 #bes4 net4 ,also a ,limited ,large ,paper ,edition1 with additional plates in photogravure4 ,demy #dto1 each copy numbered4 ,l#e #es4 net4 ,a journey through unknown country1 with the highest mountain on earth as objective1--what visions of mystery and romance it conjures6 ,this is the first great piece of exploration attempted since pre-war days1 and the expedition will doubtless rank with the classic ,arctic and continental achievements that have made land-marks in the annals of discovery4 ,the book opens with a brilliant introduction by ,sir ,francis ,younghusband1 ,president of the ,royal ,geographical ,society and ,chairman of the ,mount ,everest ,committee1 by which the ,expedition was organised4 ,then comes the fascinating narrative of the expedition itself1 told by ,col4 ,howard-,bury1 the leader2 he is followed by ,mr4 ,g4 ,leigh-,mallory who describes the strenuous climbing which1 after many failures and disappointments1 discovered what appears to be a feasible route to the summit4 ,mr4 ,a4 ,f4 ,wollaston1 another member of the expedition1 enlarges upon the remarkable fauna and flora of the ,tibetan plateau and valleys1 and the valuable ,survey work undertaken is summarized by ,major ,o4 ,e4 ,wheeler4 ,the ,geological results are dealt with by ,dr4 ,a4 ,m4 ,heron4 ,especially interesting1 in view of the coming season's expedition1 is a chapter by ,prof4 ,norman ,collie1 ,president of the ,alpine ,club1 upon the difficulties of mountaineering at such unprecedented altitudes and the prospects of reaching the summit of ,mount ,everest in #aibb4 ,the illustrations1 taken from the magnificent series of photographs brought back by the expedition1 are visions of beauty and grandeur1 and the ,maps display for the first time the topography and general features of a vast region hitherto unexplored4 ,the hill-shaded map of the mass of ,mount ,everest itself on a scale of #a_/ajj1jjj1 will enable readers to trace the progress of the climbing parties in #aibb1 while showing in detail the assaults made upon the great mountain during the reconnaissance4 ,,general ,,astronomy4 ,by ,h4 ,,spencer ,,jones1 ,m4,a41 ,b4,sc41 ,,chief ,,assistant ,,at ,,the ,,royal ,,observatory1 ,,greenwich4 ,about #djj pages1 with #ajc diagrams and #bd plates4 ,demy #hvo4 ,cloth4 ,about #bas4 net4 ,mr4 ,spencer ,jones1 who is the leader of this year's ,british ,eclipse ,expedition to ,christmas ,island1 has written a book covering the general aspects of ,astronomy4 ,the subject matter is treated from the scientific standpoint in the light of modern theories4 ,at the same time the exposition is not too recondite and is such as to stimulate the general reader who is interested in the study of the ,heavens4 ,whenever possible the argument is simplified by reference to a diagram1 and throughout the book mathematics have only been used where essential for the elucidation of any problem4 ,the book is fully illustrated and has twenty-four magnificent plates depicting comets1 nebulae1 planets1 etc41 being the pick of the observations of the different ,observatories4 ,a ,,new ,,medley ,,of ,,memories4 ,,by ,,the ,,right ,,rev4 ,,sir ,,david ,,hunter ,,blair1 ,,bt41 ,o4,s4,b41 ,,titular ,,abbot ,,of ,,dunfermline4 ,with ,portrait4 ,demy #hvo4 #afs4 net4 ,it will be remembered that the ,author's first ,medley published in #aiai only brought his reminiscences to the year #aijc4 ,he has now continued them for another decade1 and the contents of the new volume are as full of variety and anecdote as ever4 ,many a notable personage figures in these pages2 many a good story is told and many interesting fragments of antiquarian and ecclesiastical lore are quoted4 ,it was the ,author's privilege to spend some time in the service of his ,order in ,brazil1 and his account of monastic life in the tropical surroundings is full of interest4 ,at ,rome1 again1 he describes in vivid phrases several picturesque religious functions which he attended1 and wherever he goes he finds fresh material for shrewd and kindly comment4 ,,is ,,germany ,,prosperous8 ,by ,,sir ,,henry ,,penson1 ,k4,b4,e41 ,m4,a41 ,,formerly ,,chairman ,,of ,,the ,,war ,,trade ,,intelligence ,,department ,,and ,,director ,,of ,,the ,,intelligence ,,section ,,of ,,the ,,british ,,delegation ,,to ,,the ,,peace ,,conference1 ,,paris1 #aiai4 ,,author ,,of ,,the ,,economics ,,of ,,everyday ,,life4 ,crown #hvo4 #cs4 #f;d4 net4 ,this is a question which every intelligent person is asking1 and to which the answers supplied through the ordinary channels of information are widely divergent and confusing4 ,sir ,henry ,penson is a very shrewd observer well-qualified by training and experience to sift evidence and form an impartial judgment on facts and arguments4 ,in addition1 he is a very lucid economic writer and explains clearly the influence of the exchange position upon the situation in ,germany at the present day4 ,the ,author visited ,germany only a few weeks ago1 and was helped in his investigations not only by ,british officials in the ,rhineland1 but by ,germans of high position in industrial and commercial circles whose statements he checked carefully4 ,one has only to read his chapters on ,prices in ,germany1 or on ,incomes and ,standard of ,living in order to appreciate the value of his evidence1 and of the conclusions at which he arrived4 ,they have1 of course1 an important bearing upon the vital question ,can ,germany ,pay8 ,,recently ,,published4 ,,memories ,,and ,,notes ,,of ,,persons ,,and ,,places4 ,by ,,sir ,,sidney ,,colvin1 ,m4,a41 ,d4,litt41 ,,formerly ,,slade ,,professor ,,of ,,fine ,,art ,,in ,,the ,,university ,,of ,,cambridge ,,and ,,keeper ,,of ,,the ,,prints ,,and ,,drawings ,,at ,,the ,,british ,,museum4 ,with ,portrait4 ,second ,impression4 #ahs4 net4 ,readers of this book will be visited by only one regret--that ,sir ,sidney ,colvin was compelled to abandon his larger plan of writing his personal recollections in several volumes4 ,such dreams1 such memories as these are treasures4 ,sir ,sidney1 for all his modesty1 does not persuade us that they can be enjoyed so richly without some equivalent virtue4 ,that there are special aptitudes for reaching ,corinth is proved by these delightful pages4--,times ,literary ,supplement4 ,the sloven style1 the trivial matter1 of so many of the ,reminiscences which every publishing season pours forth makes all the more welcome by contrast a book of memories that is both rich in interest and itself a piece of literature4 ,such is ,sir ,sidney ,colvin's ',memories and ,notes4' ,it is a pleasure to read from beginning to end1 if only for the exact and vivid phrasing1 the sustained felicity of cadence1 at times touching emotion and imagination at once with just that kind of beauty of sound in the words which is proper to fine prose4--,mr4 ,,laurence ,,binyon in the ,bookman4 ,the man who enormously increased the regard of the public for ,landor1 who indefatigably forwarded the interests of ,r4 ,l4 ,stevenson1 and who is unmatched for his scholarly exposition of ,keats1 would1 of course1 write a book of literary gossip with distinction and taste4 ,but ,sir ,sidney ,colvin has done more than that4 ,this book is a model of what such books should be2 it is well bred1 balanced1 informing1 and yet it is light and readable all through4--,spectator4 ,after all the reminiscences by women of no conceivable importance1 and all the gossip of chatterboxes in the purlieus of ,fleet ,street1 it is pleasant to meet a narrator who comes under the old-fashioned comfortable rubric of 'a scholar and a gentleman4' ,oh6 how comely it is and how reviving ,to the spirits of just men long opprest by fusty anecdotes about third-class politicians to breathe the atmosphere of intellectual good breeding4--,mr4 ,,edmund ,,gosse in ,the ,sunday ,times4 ,the high vitality of the 'seventies and 'eighties1 both in ,england and ,france1 is made to pulse again4 ,the book is indispensable where it was bound to excel1 as in the personal study of ,robert ,louis ,stevenson4 ,but1 also1 it is singularly close and graphic in ways for which we were not prepared4--,observer4 ,full of inimitable pictures4--,nation and ,athenaeum4 ,the leading literary and artistic figures of #fj years flit through the pages with a fascination which will amply repay those who have awaited publication of the book for its real worth4 ,the whole of the fifty pages of ,stevensonia give a more faithful picture of ,r4 ,l4 ,s4 on the human side than anyone has hitherto been able to do4--,daily ,news4 ,,adrienne ,,toner4 ,by ,,anne ,,douglas ,,sedgwick 7,,mrs4 ,,basil ,,de ,,selincourt71 ,,author ,,of ,,tante1 ,,the ,,encounter1 ,,valerie ,,upton1 ,,etc4 ,third ,impression4 ,crown #hvo4 #gs4 #f;d4 net4 ,exquisite is the word that swims1 not 'darkly' but with a sense of utter satisfaction1 through the brain in summing up ,miss ,anne ,douglas ,sedgwick's new novel1 ,adrienne ,toner4 ,its quality is extraordinarily even4 ,it is a fine book1 with flashes of humour and a strong and clear reading of human life1 and withal of a quality of which it can only be said at last1 as at first1 that it is exquisite4--,country ,life4 ,i loved ',adrienne ,toner4' ,a wonderful book1 ,i thought4 ,it's well worth reading4--,from ,the ,letters of ,evelyn in the ,tatler4 ,as a penetrating study of a rather uncommon personality it must be regarded as a first-class piece of work4--,daily ,telegraph4 ,in this grave and beautiful comedy of ,english life1 with its central figure typifying the strength and crudity of those spiritual influences which have come to us from ,america1 ,anne ,douglas ,sedgwick reveals the growth and maturity of her power4--,westminster ,gazette4 ,an immensely clever study of an ,american girl and of the havoc wrought by her entry into an ordinary ,english country family4 ,it is probably the best novel ,miss ,sedgwick has yet written4--,evening ,standard4 ,miss ,sedgwick has never done better than in this novel and in nothing is it so admirable as in the way in which her laughter leaves us and her ready to admire ,adrienne when1 not changed1 but converted1 she learns from ,oldmeadow how much she has grown in spiritual wisdom4--,daily ,news4 ,a remarkable and living narrative1 well deserving all the applause that it has received4--,outlook4 ,it is a surprising book--delicate and imaginative4 ,miss ,sedgwick excels in the rendering of recurrent moods1 changes of attitude1 subtle currents of feeling4 ,this is by far the best work she has given us4--,british ,weekly4 ,a novel of rare distinction4--,pall ,mall ,gazette4 ,no one could read ',adrienne ,toner' without determining to miss nothing from the same pen4--,birmingham ,post4 ,it is a long time since one has read a novel at once as interesting and as satisfying in its craftsmanship as this4 ,miss ,sedgwick's artistry is firmer and stronger in her new book than ever yet4 ,the way in which ,adrienne is made visible is from the start quite masterly4--,review of ,reviews4 ,the book is to be read1 thoughtfully and carefully1 and with the realization that all the time we are seeing into some of the complexities of human nature as they are presented to us to-day4 ,a fascinating and powerful and uncommon book4--,church ,times4 ,,the ,,rainbow ,,bridge4 ,by ,,reginald ,,farrer1 ,,author ,,of ,,my ,,rock ,,garden1 ,,alpines ,,and ,,bog ,,plants1 ,,etc4 ,with ,illustrations and ,map4 ,second ,impression4 #bas4 net4 ,a classic of travel4 ,of modern travellers with a sense of style1 ,mr4 ,farrer must take his place in the forefront alongside of ,mr4 ,doughty1 ,mr4 ,cunninghame ,graham1 and ,mr4 ,norman ,douglas4--,times ,literary ,supplement4 ,there can be no denying that ,mr4 ,farrer was one of the great masters of ,english prose4 ,his last book is bright with sidelights on vie intime of the essential ,china4--,morning ,post4 ,,the ,,soul ,,and ,,body ,,of ,,an ,,army4 ,by ,,general ,,sir ,,ian ,,hamilton1 ,g4,c4,b4 ,,author ,,of ,a ,,staff-,,officer',s ,,scrap-,,book1 ,,gallipoli ,,diary1 ,,etc4 ,one ,volume4 ,demy #hvo4 #ahs4 net4 ,sir ,ian ,hamilton has performed a tour de force4 ,he has written a book on military organization1 and in his book there is not a dull page4 ,it will make some angry1 it will make some think1 but certainly it will not produce a yawn4--,major-,general ,sir ,f4 ,,maurice in the ,daily ,news4 ,it is an odd1 original1 unequal1 thought-compelling book1 often exasperating1 but never for a moment dull4 ,it is persuasive1 too1 and on all the greater matters judicious4--,,john ,,buchan in ,the ,evening ,standard4 ,,war ,,and ,,national ,,finance4 ,by the ,,hon4 ,r4 ,h4 ,,brand1 ,c4,m4,g41 ,,fellow ,,of ,,all ,,souls ,,college1 ,,oxford4 ,one ,volume4 ,demy #hvo4 #aes4 net4 ,a work which is not merely interesting but is most valuable4--,morning ,post4 ,by its lucidity1 if for no other reason1 it will be quite as interesting to the layman as to those who pretend to a small knowledge of economics4--,daily ,telegraph4 ,no one can read it without seeing the world's situation in the white light of fact and truth and it is a sure cure for most current fallacies4--,financial ,news4 ,,hinduism ,,and ,,buddhism4 ,an ,historical ,sketch4 ,by ,,sir ,,charles ,,eliot1 ,k4,c4,m4,g41 ,h4,b4,m4 ,,ambassador ,,at ,,tokio4 ,three ,volumes4 ,l#d #ds4 net4 ,there can hardly be an over-measure of praise accorded to ,sir ,charles ,eliot for the methods he uses and the qualities he exhibits4 ,a set of volumes which henceforth1 surely1 must be counted indispensable4--,the ,times ,literary ,supplement4 ,,new ,,scientific ,,and ,,technical ,,books4 ,,isotopes ,by ,f4 ,w4 ,,aston1 ,m4,a41 ,d4,sc41 ,f4,r4,s41 ,,fellow ,,of ,,trinity ,,college1 ,,cambridge4 ,with ,diagrams and ,plates4 ,demy #hvo4 #is4 net4 ,the foundations of the ,atomic ,theory have been based for over a century on ,dalton's definition of the ,atom4 ,the discovery of radio-activity and the application of ,positive ,rays to the analysis of the elements have shown that our conception of the ,atom as being homogeneous and indivisible must be modified4 ,no one is better fitted to deal with the subject of isotopes than ,dr4 ,aston1 whose memoirs on this subject extend over a number of years4 ,the book deals not only with isotopes1 but gives a general survey of the electrical theory of matter4 ,,an ,,inorganic ,,chemistry4 ,by ,h4 ,g4 ,,denham1 ,m4,a41 ,d4,sc1 ,,ph4,d41 ,,professor ,,of ,,inorganic ,,chemistry ,,in ,,the ,,university ,,of ,,capetown4 xii #fhd pages1 with #add figures and #ef tables4 ,demy #hvo4 ,cloth4 ,about #abs4 #f;d4 net4 ,this is a general survey of inorganic chemistry up to the ,intermediate ,examination ,standard of the ,universities4 ,obsolete manufacturing processes are omitted unless they illustrate some particular type of chemical reaction4 ,the book is treated from a modern standpoint1 as much ,physical ,chemistry being introduced as is necessary for the proper understanding of the subject4 ,,magnetism ,,and ,,electricity4 ,by ,j4 ,,paley ,,yorke1 ,a4,m4,i4,e4,e41 ,,head ,,of ,,the ,,physics ,,and ,,electrical ,,engineering ,,department ,,at ,,the ,l4,c4,c4 ,,school ,,of ,,engineering ,,and ,,navigation1 ,,poplar4 ,second ,edition4 ,crown #hvo4 ,about #es4 net4 ,the ,author has completely rewritten this book and brought it into line with the modern methods of teaching the subject4 ,it is written primarily for the student in ,technical ,schools and abounds in references to the various problems the student is likely to meet in his every-day work4 ,,railway ,,electric ,,traction4 ,by ,f4 ,w4 ,,carter1 ,m4,i4,e4,e41 ,,head ,,of ,,the ,,traction ,,department ,,of ,,the ,,british ,,thomson ,,houston ,,company1 ,,rugby4 #djj pages1 with #bjd diagrams1 photographs and plates4 ,demy #hvo4 ,cloth4 ,about #bes4 net4 ,the author1 a well-known authority on this subject1 starts with a survey of the different systems of electrification and with a comparison between steam and electric working under various conditions4 ,he then deals with the locomotive1 distribution systems1 etc41 in detail and develops the mathematical calculations necessary for dealing with the various problems which arise4 ,finally the characteristics of the principal types of electrical locomotives throughout the world are given with photographs of certain of these locomotives4 ,,elementary ,,hydraulics ,,for ,,technical ,,students4 ,by ,f4 ,c4 ,,lea1 ,d4,sc41 ,m4,,inst41 ,c4,e41 ,,professor ,,of ,,civil ,,engineering ,,in ,,the ,,university ,,of ,,birmingham4 ,crown #hvo4 ,about #hs4 #f;d4 net4 ,professor ,lea1 who is well known as the author of ,hydraulics for ,engineers and ,engineering ,students1 has here written a shorter book suitable for the courses taken in ,technical ,schools4 ,certain of the more elementary portions of the original book are included in this volume1 but much of the material is new4 ,,ions ,,electrons ,,and ,,ionizing ,,radiations4 ,by ,j4 ,a4 ,,crowther1 ,m4,a41 ,sc4,d41 ,,university ,,demonstrator ,,in ,,experimental ,,physics ,,in ,,the ,,university ,,of ,,cambridge4 ,third ,edition4 ,demy #hvo4 #abs4 #f;d4 net4 ,this book1 originally published in ,november1 #aiai1 has been thoroughly revised4 ,many portions have been entirely rewritten and of these the ,chapter on ,the ,electron ,theory of ,matter should be especially mentioned4 ,the tables of constants have been revised in accordance with the best data available and the book is in all respects abreast of the progress in this fast developing branch of modern ,physics4 ,london3 ,,edward ,,arnold ,co41 #da #dc ,maddox ,street1 ,w4 #a4