,transcriber's note3 ,the following typographical errors have been corrected3 ,page #eh3 ,from street to street we pass1 viewing the wretched tenements1 and more wretched inmates huddling together over a faint spark of fire 444 'tenements' amended from 'temements'4 ,page #afg3 ,i am quite anxious to capture1 by camera1 not by force of arms1 some of these rare types of strength and beauty1 and observing two pretty young girls standing in the doorway of one of the houses1 both perfect specimens of physical health1 ,i think this an opportunity not to be neglected4 'two' amended from 'too'4 ,page #bij3 ,a halo of romance surrounds this region1 and in the many excursions from this point1 the lover of the weird and visionary will find his every step accompanied by imaginary maidens of rare grace and beauty1 brave knights1 crafty priests1 wild huntsmen1 cruel dragons1 super-human heroes1 and all the wonderful personages of legendary lore4 'weird' amended from 'wierd'4 ,page #bif3 ,just below are ,rhoendorf1 ,honnef1 ,rheinbreitbach1 ,unkel1 and ,erpel 444 ',rhoendorf' amended from ',rhondoerf'4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,canal ,,at ,,monnikendam ,odd ,bits of ,travel with ,brush and ,camera by ,,charles ,m4 ,,taylor1 ,,jr4 ,author of ,vacation ,days in ,hawaii and ,japan and ,the ,british ,isles ,through an ,opera ,glass1 ,etc41 ,etc4 ,profusely ,illustrated by the ,author ,philadelphia ,,george ,w4 ,,jacobs ,,co4 #ajc and #aje ,south ,fifteenth ,street ,copyright1 #aijj1 by ,,george ,w4 ,,jacobs ,,co ,,to ,,my ,,wife ,preface4 ,in almost every walk of life1 even among artists and photographers1 we find those who are enthusiasts1 and who work with such ardor and perseverance as to overcome all difficulties2 while there are others who seem to desire the hard and rough places smoothed down1 and the obstacles removed from their pathways4 ,in writing this volume1 it has been my purpose to enlist the attention of both of these classes1 and to bring before the ardent worker as well as the ease-loving1 but no less interested1 follower of art1 places and scenes that afford unusual attractions for the brush and camera4 ,it might truthfully be said that in one's city may be found innumerable subjects of interest to both the amateur and professional artist2 but change of food1 scene and atmosphere is beneficial to both mind and body1 and it is ofttimes wise to pass to new scenes and broader fields of observation4 ,the places described herein are not linked together by proximity of location and follow no regular line of travel2 but are selected from various lands and from among widely differing peoples1 for the sole purpose of locating scenes that teem with paintable and photographic subjects4 ,i have endeavored to select nooks and corners where the artist and photographer will have suitable accommodations1 and where the country with its fresh1 pure air1 and wholesome food may build up the health1 while at the same time an opportunity is afforded for filling the portfolio with delightful bits of scenery and characteristic figure studies4 ,it has also been my aim to tell of countries and places comparatively easy of access1 and where those of limited means may find satisfactory accommodations4 ,at times ,i digress in my pictorial descriptions and offer some ,bits of personal experience that have befallen me upon my journeys1 which ,i trust may prove of interest and perhaps be of service to others travelling through the same places4 ,it is with these purposes in view that the following pages have been written1 and my hope is that they may serve to guide other lovers of the beautiful to some of the attractive spots and fascinating views which ,i have attempted to describe in these ,,odd ,,bits ,,of ,,travel4 ,philadelphia1 #aijj4 ,c4 ,m4 ,t41 ,,jr4 ,,contents ,,page ,,scenes ,,of ,,the ,,present ,,and ,,relics ,,of ,,the ,,past ,passing ,vessels--,the ,ocean--,sudden ,changes--,taking ,photographs--,the ,landing-,stage at ,liverpool--,new ,brighton--,in the ,country--,liverpool by ,night--,salvationists--,old ,taverns--,chester--,an ,english ,home--,relics--,the ,cathedral--,the ,river ,dee--,leamington--,the ,river ,leam--,warwick ,castle--,an ,old ,mill--,through ,kenilworth1 ,coventry and ,stoneleigh--,the ,king's ,arms--,nature's ,pictures #ae ,,lights ,,and ,,shadows ,,of ,,london ,,life ,the ,shadow ,side--,the ,slums--,the ,city by ,night--,vice and ,misery--,chinese ,johnson's ,opium ,den--,the ,bunco ,man--,an ,english ,guard--,the ,grand ,old ,man--,caution to ,tourists--,great ,cities by ,night--,the ,seven ,dials--,derby ,day--,the ,tally-,ho--,old ,robin ,hood ,inn--,epsom ,hill--,the ,races--,exciting ,scenes--,side ,shows--,the ,close of the ,day #eg ,,scenes ,,in ,,the ,,gay ,,capital ,dover to ,calais--,paris---,the ,gay ,capital by ,night--,boulevards--,life in the ,streets--,champs ,elysees--,place de la ,concorde--,arc d',etoile--,place ,vendome--,louvre--,opera ,house--,palais ,royal--,church of the ,invalides--,versailles--,notre ,dame--,jardin ,mabille--,the ,madeleine--,the ,pantheon--,the ,banks of the ,seine--,french ,funeral ,ceremonies--,la ,morgue--,pere ,lachaise #hc ,,antwerp ,,and ,,the ,,city ,,of ,,windmills ,from ,paris to ,antwerp--,along the ,route--,thrifty ,farmers--,antwerp--,dogs in ,harness--,the ,river--,old ,churches--,chimes--,an ,inappreciative ,listener--,steen ,museum--,instruments of ,torture--,lace ,industry--,living ,expenses--,hospitality--,the ,city of ,windmills--,watery ,highways--,a ,city of ,canals--,the ,maas ,river--,the ,houses on the ,canals--,travel by ,boat--,novel ,scenes--,costly ,headgear--,dutch ,costumes--,powerful ,draught ,horses--,no ,bonbons--,chocolate ,candy--,in the ,market-,place--,the ,belle of the ,market--,photographs--,wooden ,shoes--,drawbridges--,blowing the ,horn--,ancient ,relics--,the ,sword of ,columbus #aja ,a ,,city ,,of ,,many ,,islands ,amsterdam--,the ,people of ,holland--,amstel ,river--,merry ,excursionists--,interesting ,institutions--,origin of the ,city--,source of ,prosperity--,a ,cousin to ,venice--,ninety ,islands--,beams and ,gables--,block and ,tackle--,old ,salesmen--,street ,markets--,haarlem--,railway ,travel at ,home and ,abroad--,ancient ,buildings--,historic ,associations--,in the ,canal--,groote ,kerk--,the ,great ,organ--,picturesque ,subjects--,zandvoort--,eau de ,cologne--,the ,beach--,dutch ,sail ,boats--,seamen--,hooded ,chairs--,peddlers--,music in ,holland and ,germany--,gypsies--,we ,meet an ,artist--,hospitality--,a ,banquet #abg ,,excursions ,,to ,,broek ,,and ,,the ,,island ,,of ,,marken ,a ,charming ,journey--,fellow-,passengers--,national ,costumes--,the ,children--,a ,lovely ,landscape--,holstein ,cattle--,windmills--,irrigation--,farme rs--,a ,typical ,dutch ,village--,washing-,day--,the ,red1 ,white and ,blue--,suppose a ,bull ,should ,appear--,a ,brilliant ,picture--,drawing the ,canal ,boat--,honesty and ,cleanliness--,a ,thrifty and ,industrious ,people--,farming and ,cheese-making--,as ,evening ,falls--,scenes for an ,artist--,dead ,cities of ,holland--,monnikendam--,behind the ,age--,city ,lamps--,houses and ,people--,the ,island of ,marken--,an ,isolated ,wonderland--,first ,impressions--,rare ,holidays--,the ,family ,doctor--,absence of the ,men--,the ,fishing--,healthy and ,industrious ,population--,the ,women of ,marken--,pretty ,girls--,they ,will not be ,taken--,a ,valuable ,experience--,photographs #adi ,,the ,,ancient ,,town ,,of ,,monnikendam ,marken ,homes--,beds in the ,wall--,family ,heirlooms--,an ,ancient ,clock--,precious ,treasures--,quaint ,customs--,betrothed ,couples--,the ,hotel--,its ,interior--,a ,lack of ,patrons--,costumes of a ,by-gone ,age--,farewell to ,marken--,remote ,districts--,monnikendam--,ancient ,houses--,hotel de ,posthoorn--,the ,postman of the ,past--,a ,difficult ,stairway--,we ,stroll about the ,town--,our ,retinue--,in ,front of the ,hotel--,such ,curious ,children--,supper--,we ,visit the ,shops--,pantomime--,a ,novel ,experience--,they ,cannot ,understand--,no ,candles--,we ,attract a ,crowd--,the ,clothing ,store--,a ,marken ,suit--,too ,high--,bargaining--,a ,stranger to the ,rescue #agg ,,old ,,customs ,,and ,,quaint ,,pictures ,segars and ,tobacco--,row ,boats--,gooden ,morgen--,the ,zuyder ,zee--,by ,candle ,light--,total ,darkness--,the ,town by ,night--,women and ,girls--,shoes and ,stockings--,the ,shuffling ,man--,streets and ,sidewalks--,the ,town ,crier--,the ,daily ,news--,a ,message to the ,people--,draught ,dogs--,milkmaids--,the ,barber ,shop--,drug ,stores--,horretje--,a ,street ,auction--,selling ,curios--,they ,leave their ,shoes at the ,door--,an ,old ,grist ,mill--,the ,holland ,draught ,girl #bje ,a ,,dutch ,,cheese-,,making ,,district ,a ,cheese-making ,country--,edam ,cheese--,a ,picturesque ,inn--,an ,interesting ,interior--,a ,thrifty ,farmer--,at ,sunrise--,in the ,cow ,stable--,the ,pretty ,maid--,stall and ,parlor--,the ,cheese ,room--,the ,process of ,making ,cheese--,i ,have ,listened and ,listened--,a ,trip to ,volendam--,a ,fine ,country ,road--,a ,charming ,day--,muzzled ,dogs--,the ,only ,street--,a ,multitude of ,children--,gay ,decorations--,a ,united ,people--,as a ,hen and ,her ,brood--,their ,wealth is ,their ,health--,in ,sunday ,dress--,stalwart ,men and ,sturdy ,women--,a ,higher ,type--,i ,have ,enough--,fishermen--,the ,anchorage--,a ,volendam ,suit #bcc ,,volendam ,,sights1 ,,and ,,the ,,oldest ,,town ,,on ,,the ,,rhine ,church is ,out--,the ,promenade--,every ,man is a ,volume--,an ,old ,suit--,his ,sunday ,clothes--,let ,him ,have ,it--,an ,obedient ,son--,the ,silver ,buttons--,the ,last ,straw--,an ,uncommon ,action--,the ,hotel--,an ,artist's ,resort--,an ,unfinished ,painting--,good-bye--,the ,ancient ,city of ,cologne--,the ,cathedral--,within the ,dom--,a ,wonderful ,collection--,foundation of the ,town--,history--,vicissitudes--,public ,gardens--,eau de ,cologne--,the ,palace of ,bruehl #bee ,,along ,,the ,,banks ,,of ,,the ,,rhine ,bonn--,the ,birthplace of ,beethoven--,the ,museum--,monument--,a ,famous ,restaurant--,college ,students--,beer ,mugs--,special ,tables--,affairs of ,honor--,koenigswinter--,magnificent ,views--,drachenfels--,the ,castle--,the ,dombruch--,siegfried and the ,dragon--,a ,desecrated ,ruin--,the ,splendor of the ,mountains--,many ,visitors--,view from the ,summit--,the ,students' ,chorus--,german ,life--,a ,german ,breakfast--,the ,camera--,old ,castles and ,lofty ,mountains--,legends of the ,rhine--,the ,waters of the ,rhine--,vineyards #bhc ,,from ,,bingen ,,on ,,the ,,rhine ,,to ,,frankfort-,,on-,,the-,,main ,vast ,vineyards--,bingen--,the ,hotel--,the ,down ,quilt--,a ,german ,maid--,taverns--,the ,mouse ,tower--,ruedesheim--,niederwald--,the ,rheingau--,the ,national ,monument--,the ,castle of ,niederburg--,wine ,vaults--,the ,river--,street ,musicians--,a ,misunderstanding--,frankfort-on-the-,ma in--,the ,crossing of the ,ford--,a ,free ,city--,monument of ,goethe--,history--,a ,convocation of ,bishops--,the ,city ,monument of ,gutenberg--,the ,house in which ,rothschild was ,born--,luther #cac ,a ,,prussian ,,capital ,,and ,a ,,fashionable ,,resort ,we ,start for ,berlin--,mountain and ,valley--,harvesters--,villages--,a ,great ,city--,unter den ,linden--,kroll ,theatre and ,garden--,the ,city ,streets--,the ,brandenburg ,gate--,potsdam--,the ,old ,palace--,sans ,souci--,ostend--,a ,fashionable ,watering-,place--,the ,promenade--,the ,kursaal--,on the ,beach--,bathing ,machines--,studies for an ,artist--,the ,race-,course--,sunday--,the ,winning ,horse--,fickle ,dame ,fortune--,the ,english ,channel--,a ,bureau of ,information--,queenstown--,an ,irish ,lass--,the ,last ,stop--,the ,end of the ,journey #ccc ,list of ,illustrations4 ,,page ,canal at ,monnikendam 7,frontispiece7 ,we feel the heart throbs of old ,neptune #ag ,she proves to be a ,barkentine under full sail #bb ,the sailors in the rigging are swaying to and fro #bf ,amongst these are two typical products of the ,british ,isles1 #cj ,this is a fine field for the student of human nature #ce ,wayside ,inn1 ,new ,brighton #ci ,typical ,english houses with their massive thatched roofs #dc ,suburban residence #dh ,white ,hall ,horse ,guards' ,barracks #fe ,a short run of an hour #gd ,the chalky cliffs of ,dover #gi ,the largest and handsomest ,gothic church in the ,netherlands #ajf ,the place is intersected everywhere by canals #aab ,in many cases the balconies of residences overhang the water #aag ,the belle of the market #abc ,the ,amstel ,river #acb ,wicker chairs offer rest to the weary pedestrian #ada ,the flat landscape is varied by herds of cattle #aeb ,most of the houses have a canal at the back #aef ,the blue stream finds its outlet in the river #afa ,all persuasions accomplish naught #afe ,one old woman is fascinated with the camera #agj ,we walk along the narrow streets #agf ,sheep1 grazing upon the green pasture lands1 form a homelike scene #ahb ,hotel de ,posthoorn #ahg ,de ,hooflstraat1 ,monnikendam #aic ,there is a young man whose walk is all his own #bjj ,the streets and sidewalks are kept scrupulously clean #bjd ,the whole place is a succession of quaint and picturesque houses #bjh ,a street auction #bac ,at the farthest end of the street stands an old windmill #bag ,a beautifully shaded walk just outside the town #bba ,land and water #bbh ,a good road for the bicycle #bcb ,this strange looking highway runs lengthwise through the town #bda ,the houses are roofed with red tiles #bde ,the delicate lace caps frame smiling faces #bed ,as the congregation draws nearer we halt before the foremost group #beh ,every man is a volume if you know how to read him #bfc ,goeden dag4 ,tot weerziens #bfg ,palace of ,bruehl #bgf ,lovely walks1 and bowery avenues #bhb ,not far off stands the statue of the artist #bhg ,the great peak known as the ,drachenfels1 or ,dragon ,rock #bic ,how noble and defiant is the appearance of these venerable fortresses #cjb ,every turn of the river presents a different view #cjf ,now we behold the little church surrounded by picturesque houses #caa ,approaching ,bingen we see vineyards covering the mountain side #cae ,thousands of fashionably dressed people appear upon this promenade #cch ,there are many odd and fantastic sights here #cdb ,one's portfolio might soon be filled with interesting subjects #cdf ,many typical ,irish characters come aboard our vessel #cej ,several small boats are floating at our side #cee ,beyond is all abyss1 ,eternity1 whose end no eye can reach #cei ,scenes of the ,present and ,relics of the ,past4 ,scenes of the ,present and ,relics of the ,past4 ,passing ,vessels--,the ,ocean--,sudden ,changes--,taking ,photographs--,the ,landing ,stage at ,liverpool--,new ,brighton--,in the ,country--,liverpool by ,night--,salvationists--,old ,taverns--,chester--,an ,english ,home--,relics--,the ,cathedral--,the ,river ,dee--,leamington--,the ,river ,leam--,warwick ,castle--,an ,old ,mill--,through ,kenilworth1 ,coventry and ,stoneleigh--,the ,king's ,arms--,nature's ,pictures4 ,we sight a steamer on our leeward side4 ,a passing vessel is a great excitement on an ocean voyage4 ,from the time when she first appears1 a tiny speck on the distant horizon1 every one is on deck watching her as she slowly climbs into full view1 then draws nearer and nearer to our floating palace4 ,how companionable she seems in the vast waste around us4 ,we wonder to which line she belongs2 what is her name2 her speed1 and whither she is bound3 and now that she is within hailing distance1 we await eagerly the result of the usual interchange of questions and answers by means of small flags and a certain code of signals1 well understood throughout the nautical world4 ,the following are some of the questions asked3 ,to what line do you belong8 ,what is your port8 ,have you seen any icebergs8 ,met any wrecks8 ,are you a tramp8 and so on1 until both sides are satisfied1 then away she speeds on her course1 while the passengers and sailors on both ships gaze at one another through their glasses until they are lost in the distance4 ,the excitement is over1 and we all return to our former occupations1 or stand looking idly out to sea until once more there is a cry3 ,a sail6 ,a sail6 and we begin to hope that she too is coming our way4 ,straining our eyes through the powerful field-glasses1 we perceive that she is coming toward us1 and will probably cross our line4 ,larger and larger she appears as she steadily advances1 until she attracts the attention of every one on deck4 ,she is now quite close to us1 and proves to be a ,barkentine under full sail4 ,we shout a greeting to the crew1 and wave our handkerchiefs as she passes1 and the sailors smile in return and take off their caps4 ,illustration3 ,we feel the heart throbs of old ,neptune4 7,see page #af47 ,the ocean air is delightful and invigorating1 the sky a perfect azure1 and the translucent waves with their foamy edges stretch away in long beautiful curves4 ,we feel the heart throbs of old ,neptune1 as the waters plash softly over the steamer's sides1 and we speed steadily forward1 with the rush and swish of the sea sounding in our ears with a wild sweet melody all its own4 ,to fall asleep on deck amid these charming conditions is delightful indeed4 ,but how quickly the scene changes4 ,suddenly a shrill whistle from the ,quartermaster summons all hands to the deck4 ,orders are rapidly given in quick sharp tones3 ,aloft4 ,take sail in4 ,aye1 aye1 sir1 is the swift response1 in a twinkling the sure-footed sailors are up among the yards1 perched in seemingly impossible places1 reefing the flapping sails in preparation for the coming storm4 ,dark clouds above are reflected in gloomy waves below1 and heaving billows surround us1 uniting with a furious wind that seems bent on the destruction of our noble ship4 ,the sailors in the rigging are swaying to and fro1 and the panic-stricken passengers in the cabins are telling each other with pale faces that belie their words that they are not afraid1 for there is no danger2 yet they listen anxiously for every sound from above1 and will not allow their dear ones to move beyond reach of their hands4 ,there is no music now in the rushing of the waves or the flapping of the sails4 ,old ,neptune in his angry moods is not a desirable companion4 ,but nothing lasts forever1 and from storm and night and black despair the flower of hope arises1 for there comes a lull1 followed by a furious blinding onslaught1 and then the spirit of the hurricane calls his followers and flies up1 away1 somewhere beyond our ken3 the captain's face relaxes from its tense expression1 and he looks proudly around his good ship which has come out victor in the struggle with the elements4 ,one by one1 the passengers appear on deck1 the purple clouds1 after a final frown of disapproval at things in general1 break into smiles1 life on shipboard resumes its everyday attitude1 and all goes merry as a marriage bell4 ,life is full of contrasts4 ,this is a picture for which neither brush nor camera is ready4 ,he who would paint it must draw it from its recess in his memory1 or from some sheltered nook on shore1 and be cool and calm enough to follow his favorite occupation in spite of the consciousness that life and death are struggling for mastery in yonder thrilling scene that will make him famous if he can but truly portray it upon his canvas4 ,illustration3 ,she proves to be a ,barkentine under full sail4 7,see page #af47 ,but there are many tableaux and picturesque situations here1 very tempting to the traveller who carries with him his sketch book or camera1 and ,i entertain my companions as well as myself by photographing many a little group both comical and interesting in the world around us4 ,i invite our friends to the lower deck1 where ,i wish to take pictures of some of the steerage passengers4 ,amongst these are two typical products of the ,british ,isles--one a robust ,irishman of shillalah fame1 and the other a bonny boy from ,scotland4 ,i make known to them my desire to have their photographs1 whereupon the quick witted ,irishman1 without doubt knowing the quality of his face1 which is one of the ugliest ,i have ever seen1 begins at once to bargain with me for the privilege of transferring it to my camera4 ,it is true ,i could have stolen a march on him by a snap shot1 and he been all unconscious of the act1 but wishing to keep up the comedy ,i asked at what price he values his face4 ,he replies that if ,i will take up a collection from the passengers around us1 he will accept that as full pay4 ,my friends of the cabin enter into the spirit of the play1 and quite a goodly sum finds its way into the horny hand of the ,hibernian athlete1 who now1 with a broad smile of satisfaction1 intimates that he is ready to be taken4 ,these pictures too join the gallery of our yesterdays4 ,swift has truly said3 ,it is the talent of human nature to run from one extreme to another4 ,the long voyage is over1 and all hearts rejoice in the sight of land1 and now we are upon the landing stage at ,liverpool1 amidst the throng of excited passengers1 all moving hither and thither in search of baggage which seems hopelessly lost in the confusion of trunks1 porters1 policemen1 drays and ubiquitous small boys4 ,this is a fine field for the student of human nature4 ,here are groups of inexperienced travellers looking anxiously about them1 wondering how it is possible to extricate their belongings from the indistinguishable mass before them1 and laboring under the dread that when found1 a fierce and merciless custom-house official will seize upon trunks and boxes1 and deaf to all protestations1 dump the contents1 from a shoe to a hat1 upon the floor1 to the everlasting confusion of the owners and the amusement of the spectators4 ,the cool indifference of those who have crossed the ocean many times is in marked contrast to these panic-stricken1 and really pitiable creatures4 ,illustration3 ,the sailors in the rigging are swaying to and fro4 7,see page #ai47 ,then there is the happy-go-lucky youth1 who finds all this tumult a great joke1 and who wanders carelessly about1 with the serene confidence that things will turn out all right2 which they generally do4 ,here is the fashionable mother with her pretty daughters who evince a charming delight in everything that happens2 the fussy mama who is sure that her baggage has not come ashore1 or that the officers of the custom-house are in league against her2 children separated from parents or nurses1 shrieking wildly in their terror1 while others1 more venturesome and curious1 are in every one's way4 ,porters elbow their way through the crowd1 cabmen shout in stentorian tones1 policemen watch the masses1 and now and then in sharp curt tones call a delinquent to order4 ,a placid looking old gentleman with silvery hair and dignified demeanor stands in the midst of a picturesque party of young people1 evidently his grandchildren4 ,they all look so happy that it seems contagious1 for the troubled countenances of their neighbors break into sympathetic smiles as they glance at this joyous family group4 ,every shade of human expression may be observed in this motley throng1 and he who has eyes to see will find many a charming tableau1 many a pathetic scene or diverting situation that would enrich a sketch book1 or prove a valuable addition to the collection made by the ready camera4 ,the various changes of expression are worth studying1 for where luxuriant joy and pleasure in excess appear at one moment1 the next may behold an angry frown1 and a struggle as if for life amid the surging tide of humanity4 ,now one's the better--then the other best ,both tugging to be victor1 breast to breast ,yet neither conqueror1 or is conquered4 ,taking a small steamer which plies between ,liverpool and ,new ,brighton1 one may for a few cents1 after a half hour's ride1 land at an attractive and much frequented watering-place upon the bank of the ,mersey ,river1 opposite ,liverpool4 ,this resort is the pleasure-ground of the middle classes1 and is well worth a visit4 ,upon a holiday many thousands flock to its shores which remind one of ,vanity ,fair1 where numerous phases and conditions of life are represented4 ,here is the indefatigable and annoying travelling photographer with his ,four for a shilling4 ,take you in two minutes4 ,ladies and gentlemen1 step in and see the finest pictures to be found in this country4 ,bridal groups a specialty4 ,illustration3 ,amongst these are two typical products of the ,british ,isles4 7,see page #bc47 ,here are games of all kinds1 pony and donkey riding1 and all the shows to be found at the popular seashore resort4 ,the merry-go-round is in full swing1 with a crowd of spectators1 among them many wistful children1 watching the prancing camels and gaily caparisoned horses4 ,the music here is quite inspiring1 and the numerous small boys and maidens who lack the necessary pennies for this ravishing entertainment gaze at their more fortunate companions with woe-begone countenances4 ,strains less animated1 but more melodious attract us to a fine dancing hall1 where the older lads and lasses are tripping about in a lively manner4 ,the light dresses1 colored ribbons and happy faces make a pretty picture4 ,along the beach are beautiful views1 worthy of a master hand1 while out in the country the typical ,english houses with their massive thatched roofs and lovely surroundings of trees1 lawns and gardens fair1 cannot fail to captivate the artist's eyes4 ,a stroll through the streets and byways of ,liverpool at night is a sad but interesting experience4 ,alas for the misery and crime and want that exist in all the great cities6 ,girls1 young and pretty1 but no longer innocent1 may be seen in scores in every locality3 children with poverty and depravity written on their faces boldly address one at the street corners3 men and women1 with sharp1 pinched features and misery and despair in their voices1 beseech one for alms1 or with fierce cunning lie in wait for the unwary4 ,sick at heart and with inexpressible pity we wend our way from one point to another4 ,vice1 crime1 want1 suffering meet our eyes on every side3 and the old hopeless cry3 ,why must these things be8 rises up again in our souls4 ,through the whole night long upon the curb stones1 at the corners1 lounging against the windows and doors of closed houses or shops1 this lower stratum of life appears with its atmosphere of dusky gloom4 ,when the daylight dawns upon the city1 it seems to shrivel up and shrink into the mouths of the yawning black cellars and foul alleys whose very breath is a deadly poison4 ,there are dozens of taverns scattered about the city1 and within these rooms or stalls are partitioned off where sin may be screened from public view1 for even those dyed deepest in crime sometimes fall so low that they dare not carry on their nefarious operations in the face of their everyday companions4 ,these dens are countenanced by the authorities1 and one may find within them criminals of every grade who prey upon each other for their sustenance3 but in the long run1 it is the proprietor who comes out with a substantial bank account4 ,beggars1 peddlers1 musicians1 singers of both sexes1 and itinerant vendors of all kinds jostle each other in these haunts of sin1 and great caution should be exercised in visiting them1 for in certain localities1 crimes of the most brutal character are of daily1 ,i might say hourly occurrence4 ,i would suggest that the tourist should at such times depend for safety upon the company of a first-class detective4 ,let praise be given where it is due4 ,the ,salvationists of ,europe have by their indefatigable labors reclaimed thousands of these men and women from their lives of sin and misery4 ,you will meet these untiring workers everywhere1 exhorting1 praying1 pleading with fallen humanity4 ,these noble bands of ,christians enter fearlessly the most loathsome hovels1 and1 wrestling with filth and disease1 in many cases come off victorious4 ,they have been known to wash the clothing and cleanse the houses of fever-stricken families1 and supply wholesome food and care for helpless infants1 defied at every step by a drunken son or father4 ,they fear nothing1 knowing that their cause is ,god's cause1 and that in the end ,almighty ,goodness shall win an eternal conquest4 ,it is customary throughout ,england to close all the saloons on ,sundays until noon1 after which time they open their doors1 and remain open till midnight as upon week-days4 ,of the many cities whose haunts ,i have visited at night1 ,i think that without exception1 unless it be ,london1 ,liverpool leads in depravity and vice4 ,the country from ,liverpool to ,chester abounds in attractive scenery1 local in character and possessing the additional charm of novelty for the ,american tourist4 ,along the route are scattered a number of old taverns1 such as ,the ,horn1 ,the ,green ,tree1 and similar names4 ,dismounting from bicycle or trap1 the traveller who enters one of these ancient landmarks will find everything in apple pie order3 the floor clean and shining like a bright new dollar just launched from the mint4 ,he will sit at a table within one of the three stalls on either side of the little room1 and the landlord's wife will bring him a bumper of good auld ,al1 the effect of which will prove lasting and beneficial1 if it corresponds with my experience4 ,illustration3 ,this is a fine field for the student of human nature4 7,see page #bd47 ,chester1 oldest of ,english cities1 is full of quaint residences and other ancient buildings4 ,the old wall which surrounds the town is the only one in ,great ,britain which has been preserved entire4 ,it forms a continuous ring1 although in some places the earth has climbed so far above its base1 that it appears no higher than a terrace4 ,its rugged outer parapet is still complete1 and the wide flagging forms a delightful promenade1 with a fine view of the surrounding country4 ,the earliest date which we find upon the wall is ,a4 ,d4 #fa1 when it was erected by the ,romans4 ,twelve years later1 ,marius1 king of the ,britons1 extended the wall4 ,the ,britons were defeated under it in #fjg1 and after a lapse of three centuries1 it was rebuilt by the daughter of ,alfred the ,great4 ,it has a long and eventful history1 and the old ,cathedral whose edge it skirts1 is one of the largest and most ancient in ,england4 ,the sculptures in this magnificent edifice are worn smooth by the hand of time4 ,the stained glass windows are marvels of art1 the groined arches1 dreamy cloisters1 and antique carving upon seats and pews fill one with admiration mingled with awe4 ,there are many fine mosaics here1 and specimens of wood from the ,holy ,land4 ,costly gems adorn the choir2 here too is a ,bible whose cover is inlaid with precious stones4 ,the massive ,gothic pillars are still in a perfect state of preservation1 as well as the numerous ancient monuments and relics of the past4 ,the vast size of the ,cathedral is a perpetual source of wonder to the stranger1 who1 wandering among its curious historic mementos1 gazing upon its storied nave1 transepts and choir1 and upon the ,bible scenes pictured in these glorious windows1 feels that he has been transported by some magician's hand into an age long buried in the past4 ,the ,cathedral is said to have been founded in the year #bjj4 ,its height within1 from floor to the lofty dome lighted by these exquisite windows is from sixty to one hundred feet4 ,the ,church of ,st4 ,john the ,baptist rivals the ,cathedral in antiquity1 but it is now a picturesque ruin covered with moss and ivy4 ,chester itself contains many antiquities that are to be found nowhere else in the world4 ,the houses1 dating back to #aejj1 or even earlier1 are of every degree of shade and color1 with little windows with diamond-shaped panes1 and gable ends facing the streets whose sidewalks are on a level with the second stories4 ,everything here seems to belong to the past1 excepting the fine1 modern station1 ten hundred and fifty feet long1 with its projecting iron roofed wings for the protection of vehicles waiting for passengers from the trains4 ,this station is one of the longest in ,england4 ,the famous ,chester ,rows are public passages running through the second stories of the houses facing the four principal streets4 ,these arcades are reached by flights of steps at the corners of the streets1 and contain some very attractive shops4 ,the old timber-built houses of ,chester with their curious inscriptions are all preserved in their original ancient style1 and nowhere in ,england can the artist or photographer find a more interesting spot1 or one richer in ancient and mediaeval relics than this little town4 ,illustration3 ,wayside ,inn1 ,new ,brighton4 7,see page #ca47 ,the quaint old taverns carry one back1 back1 to the life of the past4 ,drop in at the ,bear ,billet ,inn some day1 or ,the ,falcon ,inn1 and yield yourself up to the charming mediaeval atmosphere of the place4 ,seat yourself at the little table beside the window1 and look out upon the same scene which your ,english ancestors looked upon more than two hundred years ago4 ,the landlord's wife will bring you a foaming tankard of ale4 ,it is the same tankard from which your forefathers quenched their thirst1 and if you are of a contented1 philosophical temperament1 you will experience the same comfort and enjoyment as they1 in this truly ,english beverage4 ,if you are not fired with enthusiasm by this old-time picture1 wend your way to the banks of the ,river ,dee1 where you may paint the greens in every variety of light and shade1 with one of the picturesque old farmhouses which abound here in the foreground1 and some blooded cattle resting quietly beneath the wide-spreading branches of the trees4 ,or here is the single wide arch of ,grosvenor ,bridge crossing the river1 with a span of two hundred feet4 ,this is one of the largest stone arches in ,europe4 ,or here is a bit of the old wall skirting the water1 and the charming picture of the ,old ,bridge1 which dates back to the thirteenth century2 and here too are the vast mills of the ,dee1 associated with the history and traditions of eight hundred years4 ,with its surrounding country1 and the succession of lovely gardens bordering the ,dee1 surely ,chester is one of the choice spots in ,england for the lover of the quaint and beautiful4 ,within the pretty residences of the suburbs may be found all the comforts and recreations of a happy prosperous family life1 united with genuine ,english hospitality1 and a cordial welcome for the stranger4 ,the owner of one of these charming homes orders up his cart1 and insists upon taking us for a drive through this delightful locality1 and for miles and miles our hearts and eyes are captivated by lovely landscapes and enchanting bits of scenery4 ,we wind up with a cup of good hot tea1 thinly cut buttered bread1 and other dainties4 ,illustration3 ,typical ,english houses with their massive thatched roofs4 7,see page #ca47 ,a decided change from the ancient and mediaeval associations of ,chester is the prosperous city of ,leamington1 a watering-place situated on the ,leam ,river1 a tributary of the ,avon4 ,the natural mineral springs discovered here in #agig have proved the source of great benefit to this town1 as the springs are highly recommended by physicians1 and many invalids resort thither4 ,but as health is not our object in coming1 we do not follow the popular custom1 but proceeding to the banks of the ,river ,leam1 engage one of the many small boats which may be hired1 and drift leisurely down the stream with the current1 revelling in the wealth of beauty which surrounds us4 ,hundreds of lovely nooks disclose themselves to our eager eyes--typical ,english scenes--and as we float along life assumes an ideal aspect under the witchery of this picturesque river4 ,here are old farmhouses in the foreground1 with their richly cultivated fields stretching away for hundreds of acres1 and here are velvet lawns1 with their dainty high-bred air1 surrounding noble homes1 stately and silent4 ,now a group of merry children dance about the water side1 and a great ,newfoundland dog dashes wildly into the stream after a ball or stick1 swimming gallantly out until he seizes his prize4 ,how the children scream and run away as he rushes joyously up to them1 shaking the spray over their dresses and into their faces4 ,oh fair ,river ,leam6 these lofty elms and giant oaks that look down upon your waters love you1 and we too1 strangers from a foreign shore1 here yield our tribute of loving praise for the happy hours we owe to you1 lingering often1 reluctant to leave some especially charming spot where the branches of the trees overhang the stream1 and touch our faces with soft caressing fingers4 ,nature was here so lavish of her store1 ,that she bestowed until she had no more4 ,this scene too fades as we board one of the many tram-cars1 and in a few moments are carried to the very gateway of the world-renowned ,warwick ,castle1 which occupies a commanding position1 overlooking the ,avon4 ,this ancient pile is artistically poised1 and presents grand effects of color1 light and shade4 ,upon the payment of a shilling for each person1 the massive iron doors which for centuries have guarded this stately and historic stronghold1 open as if by magic1 and a passageway cut through the solid rock leads us to an open space1 where we have a fine view of the magnificent round towers and embattled walls4 ,a visit of two hours gives us opportunity to climb to the top of the ancient towers which for ages have loomed up as monuments of power and defiance in the face of the enemy4 ,we are impressed with the vast size of the castle4 ,the view from the towers and the windows is beautiful and romantic4 ,in the spacious courtyard there are magnificent old trees and soft velvety turf1 and the hand of time has colored towers and battlements a rich brown hue that blends harmoniously with the ivy creeping in and out wherever it can find a place4 ,illustration3 ,suburban residence4 7,see page #db47 ,the gardens slope down to the ,avon1 from whose banks there is a picturesque view of the river front of the castle1 and here as well as in the park we see some fine old cedars of ,lebanon1 brought from the ,east by the ,warwick ,crusaders4 ,in the main castle we enter a number of the apartments which are furnished in a style of regal splendor4 ,the ,great ,entrance ,hall1 sixty two feet long and forty wide1 is rich in dark old oak wainscoting1 and curious ancient armor2 and shields and coronets of the earls of many generations1 as well as the ,bear and ,ragged ,staff1 of ,robert ,dudley's crest are carved upon its ,gothic ceiling4 ,the ,gilt ,drawing-room contains a rare collection of the masterpieces of great artists4 ,this room is so called from the richly gilded panels which cover its walls and ceiling4 ,in the ,cedar ,drawing-room are wonderful antique vases1 furniture and other curios1 which would well repay a much longer inspection than we can give them4 ,but all the rooms in this magnificent old feudal castle are filled with the finest specimens of works of ancient art in every line4 ,the paintings alone fill us with despair1 for they line the walls in close succession1 and the artists' names are ,murillo1 ,rubens1 ,rembrandt1 ,vandyke1 ,sir ,peter ,lely1 ,guido1 ,andrea del ,sarto1 and many others of like celebrity4 ,what an opportunity for those who have the time to linger in this atmosphere of lofty genius6 ,many beautiful old shade trees surround the castle1 and the restful silence inspires one with the desire to be alone and yield himself up to the spirit of the place1 hallowed by such wealth of associations and the presence of immortal art4 ,a short distance from the castle1 and outside the ,warwick enclosure1 stands an old mill upon the bank of the ,avon4 ,this ancient and picturesque structure was originally built for the purpose of grinding wheat1 but the all-observing eye of the artist quickly discovered in it a mission of a higher order1 and for years it has posed as the central figure in the romantic landscapes portrayed by the brush of the painter or the camera of the photographer4 ,taking a drag and driving through ,kenilworth1 ,coventry and ,stoneleigh1 will give one delightful views of some of the most beautiful portions of ,england4 ,the roads are macadamized1 and in good condition4 ,this is a fine farming country1 and here we see the typical ,english farmhouses1 built of brick and stone1 surrounded by well-cultivated fields1 stretching away into a peacefully smiling landscape4 ,the fields are separated by green hedges1 and the whole scene is one that can hardly be surpassed throughout ,merrie ,england4 ,from these lovely quiet homes1 we pass through roads bordered with wild flowers to the ruins of one of the most magnificent castles in ,great ,britain4 ,it is hardly necessary to say that ,kenilworth is inseparably associated with ,sir ,walter ,scott1 and his graphic descriptions of the scenes and events that have taken place here in the days of its glory4 ,this castle1 one of the finest and most extensive baronial ruins in ,england1 dates back to about #aabj ,a4 ,d4 ,it covered an area of seven acres1 but is now a mass of ivy-covered ruins1 from which one can form but a faint idea of its appearance in the height of its prosperity4 ,yet the hand of nature has invested it with another kind of beauty1 and in place of the pomp and majesty of power1 the brilliant pageants of the court of ,queen ,elizabeth1 we behold the clinging robe of ivy1 the daylight illuminating the gallery tower in place of the hundreds of wax torches which flashed their lights upon the royal cavalcade1 and a little country road where once a stately avenue led to the tower1 and listened to the court secrets1 lovers' vows and merry badinage uttered within its shades4 ,the castle has passed through many changes1 and experienced stormy days as well as those of prosperity and luxury1 but the pen of ,scott has immortalized it on the summit of its glory1 and though the ages may cast their blight upon its visible form1 it will ever live in the soul of the artist1 the poet1 the lover of beauty1 as a scene of splendor1 of sorrowful tragedy1 of magnificent design4 ,but a few steps beyond the ,kenilworth grounds is an old ,english inn--,the ,king's ,arms4 ,it is so picturesque and romantic-looking1 that ,i feel like rechristening it3 ,the ,entire ,royal ,family4 ,let us enter its hospitable doors and enjoy its old-time atmosphere and many curious attractions4 ,here the artist is in his element1 for on every side are quaint corners1 cozy nooks1 and relics for which the lover of the antique would give a fortune2 while outside the windows the beautiful ,english landscape beams upon one with inviting smiles4 ,the landlady1 with her cheerful bustling air and broad accent1 imparts a pleasant thrill of anticipation1 which is more than realized upon the appearance of the savory chops1--grown on the neighboring hillside1 whose rich green pasturage is a guarantee for the flavor and quality of the meat1--the delicious hot cakes1 and the unfailing tankard1 or if one prefers it1 the cup of fragrant tea4 ,and so we sit and refresh the inner man1 while the soul revels in the world of beauty around us1 and picture after picture passes before the mental vision1 connecting these scenes with famous historic characters1 or wonderful events of legendary lore4 ,so lovely are these views1 that one could gaze for hours1 and never weary of the living jewels dropp'd unstained from heaven1 for this picturesque country possesses a peculiar freshness1 as though free from the touch of care and the hand of time1 like the fair maiden who has received from the fountain of youth the gift of eternal life and beauty4 ,lights and ,shadows of ,london ,life4 ,lights and ,shadows of ,london ,life4 ,the ,shadow ,side--,the ,slums--,the ,city by ,night--,vice and ,misery--,chinese ,johnson's ,opium ,den--,the ,bunco ,man--,an ,english ,guard--,the ,grand ,old ,man--,caution to ,tourists--,great ,cities by ,night--,the ,seven ,dials--,derby ,day--,the ,tally-,ho--,old ,robin ,hood ,inn--,epsom ,hill--,the ,races--,exciting ,scenes--,side ,shows--,the ,close of the ,day4 ,as nature derives much of its charm from the intermingling of light and shade1 so in life there are many scenes of sharp contrast1 and we often have a deeper appreciation of its beauties after beholding the reverse side of the picture4 ,some one has said3 ,in actions of life1 who seeth not the filthiness of evil1 wanteth a great foil to perceive the beauty of virtue4 ,what better opportunity of studying this phase of life can there be1 than in the faces of those whose existence is passed amid associations of suffering1 want and crime2 who not only witness1 but experience all these in their different shades and degrees4 ,take with me a walk through the worst portions of the greatest metropolis in the world1 and observe a few of the pictures in the localities where humanity is born and nourished in misery1 filth and sin4 ,guarded by three of ,england's best paid detectives1 ,i follow closely in their footsteps1 not daring to speak lest ,i rouse in his lair the slumbering lion of passion and revenge4 ,from street to street we pass1 viewing the wretched tenements1 and more wretched inmates huddling together over a faint spark of fire1 or vainly trying to impart to their little ones some of the natural warmth which still exists in their bodies1 in spite of hunger1 cold and fatigue4 ,the crumbs from the tables of the rich would be a lavish feast to these poor creatures4 ,clean water is as great a stranger to their stomachs as to their bodies2 loathsome rags cover their emaciated forms1 and the destroyer drink has left his signet upon their countenances4 ,a little farther on is the vile dance house into which the inhabitants of this neighborhood crawl for the lowest stage of their degradation4 ,a motley throng is assembled here1 and the sound of a violin mingles with shrill laughter and drunken oaths4 ,i am guarded so carefully that many times ,i am hurried away from a scene more quickly than ,i wish1 the officers fearing that our presence may create a disturbance among these reckless characters4 ,we enter a low saloon in a cellar dimly lighted by an old oil lamp3 the atmosphere is gruesome1 and one of the detectives warns me that the men who frequent this haunt are desperate fellows who would not hesitate to stab me for the sake of my clothing4 ,old and grizzled habitues line reeking walls1 with depravity written upon every countenance1 and ,i fully realize that my life would not be worth a moment's purchase here should my attendants forsake me4 ,now we are in a long narrow alley1 as black as ,erebus1 which gives one the feeling of being in a subterranean passage upon some mysterious mission4 ,in a few minutes a light appears ahead--a dull glimmering bluish light1 like that which is supposed to hover above graveyards--and we pause in front of a small frame house of two stories4 ,a knock upon the door brings to the threshold a little dried up1 wizened ,chinaman1 made feeble by long dissipation1 who in his broken language makes us welcome4 ,the place is ,chinese ,johnson's opium den4 ,how can ,i describe the scene that is before me8 ,in this room are many small dirty cots filled with unconscious human beings1 willing victims of the pernicious drug--a loathsome spectacle--and here on a small couch sits the proprietor of the establishment4 ,this is his throne of state1 and here he can smoke with impunity the deadly drug1 which has no perceptible effect upon his depraved body4 ,we are glad to end this experience and banish from our minds the unattractive picture of the ,chinaman in his elysian fields4 ,we are not the only ones who have the privilege of viewing these scenes4 ,any one who desires and possesses the necessary courage may invade the haunts and dens of the lower world1 and be profited by the lessons here learned2 but he must exercise great caution4 ,the studies are not only for the brush and camera3 they are food for the thoughtful mind which can apply the wisdom thus gained1 and seek in these conditions for the solution of knotty problems4 ,one can better appreciate1 by reason of this contrast1 the blessings of his own life2 of purity1 honesty and contentment as opposed to ignorance1 poverty and vice4 ,this evening1 fatigued in mind and body by my experience in the slums of ,london1 ,i enter the ,holborn ,restaurant1 hoping to enjoy a good dinner1 and at the same time be entertained by the delightful music of skilled musicians4 ,i seat myself at a table on the second floor1 and supposing myself free from intrusion1 yield myself up to the charming melody1 when a good-looking and well-dressed man approaches1 and with many apologies asks if the seat opposite me is engaged4 ,i assure him that ,i do not lay claim to ownership of any portion of the ,holborn1 and that ,i can speak only of the chair upon which ,i am sitting4 ,upon this he takes the opposite place and gives to the waiter an order for quite an extravagant supply of the dainties enumerated on the bill of fare4 ,during the time intervening between the giving of the order and its delivery1 no conversation passes between us1 but ,i have an unpleasant consciousness of his presence1 and occasionally feel his eyes resting upon me4 ,the appearance of the epicurean repast seems to impart the confidence he requires1 and he addresses me with the remark that ,i must pardon him for staring at me so impolitely1 but he is sure he has met me before4 ,am ,i not an ,american8 to which ,i assent4 ,are you a ,new ,yorker8 is the next interrogation from this experienced catechiser4 ,he can readily perceive that ,i am an ,american by my foreign accent4 ,to the last question ,i also respond in the affirmative1 and may heaven forgive the falsehood4 ,ah1 he says1 do you frequent the races at ,sheepshead ,bay8 ,yes1 generally1 ,i reply4 7,i have never seen the place47 ,it is there1 then1 that ,i have met you4 ,were you not there last summer8 ,many times4 7,another breach of truth47 ,will you kindly give me your name8 follows as a matter of course4 ,i reach my hand into my pocket and draw out a card upon which is engraved simply my name1 and extending it toward him1 remark3 ,my name is ,charles ,m4 ,taylor1 ,jr41 and ,i am associated with ,mr4 ----1 one of the chief detectives at ,scotland ,yard4 ,my present mission is to look up some ',bunco' men from ,new ,york who have headquarters in ,london4 ,here is my card4 ,but the stranger does not take the card4 ,he glances hastily at his watch1 and rising hurriedly1 says3 ,it is nine o'clock4 ,i did not know it was so late4 ,i must be off1 as ,i have an important engagement4 ,as he pushes back his chair1 ,i quickly call a waiter1 and tell him to collect the money for this gentleman's order1 as ,i do not wish to be held responsible for it4 ,he pays for the meal which he has not touched1 and in his haste to depart forgets his manners1 for he does not wish me good-night4 ,did he think ,i was a tender lamb8 ,this hurts my pride somewhat4 ,i am sorry1 however1 that ,i was obliged to deceive him so4 ,one evening while discussing matters in general with an ,english friend1 born and bred in the city of ,london1 we touch upon the order and unswerving obedience of the soldiers1 policemen and good citizens who dwell under the dominion of her gracious ,majesty1 the ,queen1 in the great metropolis2 and my friend cites as an example1 the guards who patrol nightly the ,white ,hall ,horse ,guards ,barracks1 as adhering so strictly to their line of march that they will not turn out of their way one inch for any person or obstacle in their direct course4 ,i accept the wager of a dinner at the ,holborn to be given by me if ,i do not succeed in inducing one of these guards to move out of his line of march4 ,selecting a dark night for the one in which to make good my assertion1 ,i approach the barracks1 and espy the guard with bayonet at ,carry arms1 making a bee line toward me4 ,i walk in his direction with head bent low1 and come so close that there would be a collision were it not for the stern and firmly-uttered ,halt that comes from his lips4 ,i halt face to face with this noble specimen of humanity1 standing fully six feet one in his boots1 and as straight as ,jack's bean pole4 ,sir1 ,i say1 you are in my way1 will you please move out8 ,he makes no response4 ,will you please step aside and allow me to pass8 ,no response4 ,come1 my good fellow1 ,i continue in persuasive tones1 ,i have made a wager that you will move out of line for me1 and if you do ,i will share the bet with you4 ,no reply4 ,but ,i see in the immovable countenance an inflexible determination to do his duty which all the bribes in ,christendom will not be able to change4 ,i feel that death only can prevent his obedience to orders4 ,well1 ,i conclude1 you are a good fellow1 and the power you serve1 be it queen1 emperor1 or president1 is to be envied for having such a faithful subject4 ,i respect your obedience to law and order4 ,good-night4 ,no response4 ,it is needless to say that ,i pay the forfeit willingly1 and my friend and ,i enjoy a good dinner at the ,holborn4 ,illustration3 ,white ,hall ,horse ,guards' ,barracks4 7,see page #fc47 ,strolling one morning about ,london1 with nothing better to do than to take in odd bits that come in my way1 ,i observe a large crowd of citizens assembled opposite the entrance to ,parliament1 and going up to a policeman1 ,i ask what has happened1 or is about to happen8 ,but the officer looks perfectly blank1 and can give me no information whatever4 ,i bethink suddenly of my remissness and the rules governing information sought from guards1 cab-drivers1 and omnibus whips in the city of ,london1 and straightway putting my hand in my pocket1 ,i produce several pennies which ,i give him for a mug of ,half and ,half4 ,a change comes over his countenance1 his vanished senses quickly return1 and with a courteous smile he remarks that ,gladstone is expected to appear in ,parliament for the first time after an illness of some weeks4 ,and this obliging cop not only gives me the desired information1 but escorts me to a good position in the crowd1 just in time to behold the ,grand ,old ,man1 who1 holding his hat in his hand1 bows smilingly in response to the enthusiastic greetings which come from every side4 ,he walks briskly along1 and as he comes close to me1 moved by an irresistible impulse1 ,i step out from the throng1 and extend my hand1 saying3 ,i am an ,american1 who wishes to shake the hand of the man who has so bravely fought a hard battle4 ,the proud old face looks pleasantly into mine1 his hand meets mine with a cordial grasp1 and replying that he is glad to meet an ,american1 ,gladstone passes on to the scene of his many conflicts and victories4 ,the tourist who is bent on seeing the various sections of a great city1 and especially those localities which are best observed by night1 should be very cautious in visiting the haunts of vice and poverty3 such for example as the old ,seven ,dials of ,london1 as it used to be4 ,i have had many unpleasant and untold encounters1 and been placed in situations1 not only trying1 but extremely dangerous1 while attempting to explore these hidden regions unattended and alone4 ,experience has taught me that it is best to go well heeled1 that is accompanied by the best informed and most expert detectives1 as what they may charge for their services is cheap in comparison with a mutilated head or body4 ,one's own ready wit and shrewdness are all very well in some cases1 but there are times when these fail1 and the man at the other end1 drunken1 brutal1 and excited1 will make you wish you had let sleeping dogs lie4 ,it is well for travellers and others to visit the slums of large cities by night4 ,here is food for comparison and reflection1 and from these may perhaps arise a different feeling from that with which we are accustomed to regard the poor wretches who have lacked the advantages of birth1 education and environment4 ,in company with four detectives1 ,i visited the ,seven ,dials of ,london1 and the experience of those nights spent in scenes of horror1 vice and degradation would fill volumes4 ,picture to yourself a small narrow street1 with low wooden houses of two stories on either side4 ,there are dim glimmering lights at intervals of about fifty feet4 ,the hour is two o'clock in the morning1 as one tourist attended by four officers wends his way through an atmosphere filled with dread and horror4 ,we enter some of the houses which present scenes of indescribable squalor and confusion4 ,a perfect bedlam of tongues reigns here4 ,men and women hurl abusive epithets at each other1 from windows and doors1 as well as from one end of the street to the other4 ,the entire neighborhood enters into the quarrel1 and the transition from words to blows is sudden and fierce4 ,the street is filled in an instant with ragged1 and almost naked beings1 whom one can hardly call human1 and the battle which ensues with clubs1 knives and fists is beyond imagination4 ,cut heads1 broken limbs1 bruised bodies1 bleeding countenances appear on every side1 and it is quite evident that many are scarred for life4 ,the sight is loathsome1 yet it makes one's heart ache4 ,such scenes are of frequent occurrence in the slums of nearly every large city1 where drink and depravity count their victims by thousands4 ,in these vile abodes are the haunts of the thief1 the smuggler1 the fallen1 and the pictures once seen1 are indelibly impressed on the memory1 with the long train of reflections awakened by such sights1 and the inevitable query3 ,why is not something done to render such scenes impossible in this age of civilization8 ,at last the great ,derby ,day has arrived1 and the whole atmosphere is filled with the importance of the occasion4 ,the sprinkling rain does not dampen the ardor and enthusiasm of the true ,englishman1 for ,i am told that the races have never been postponed on account of the weather4 ,after breakfast we stroll to the street corner where stands our tally-ho in readiness for the day's excursion4 ,having engaged our seats the previous day1 we take our places and start forth1 drawn by four spirited horses under the guidance of an experienced driver4 ,the whip is cracked1 the horn sends forth its musical signal1 and away we go amid the cheers and applause of numerous spectators4 ,swiftly we roll over the well paved streets1 and the high spirits of the company1 accompanied by the frequent winding of the horn1 render the ride extremely pleasant4 ,the race-course is about eighteen miles out of ,london1 and our road is through a beautiful portion of the country4 ,every lane and avenue is thronged with people1 walking1 driving1 or on bicycles1 but all going to the ,derby4 ,we stop for refreshment at the old ,robin ,hood ,inn1 an ancient hostelry1 established1 we are told1 in #adji4 ,here we have a beverage1 supposed to be soda water or milk1 but which is in truth a stronger concoction1 to brace us for the mental and physical strain of this exciting day4 ,all aboard1 cries the coachman1 and there is a general scramble for places4 ,at last we are all seated1 and proceed on our way1 changing horses when half the distance is covered4 ,we take the main thoroughfare within three miles of the ,epsom grounds1 and now a wonderful sight bursts upon us4 ,thousands of pedestrians of both sexes and every age are flocking toward the race course3 hundreds of carriages1 vans1 dog carts1 tally-hos1 vehicles of every description throng the road4 ,enormous trains are constantly arriving1 bearing their thousands to the ,downs1 now covered with a vast moving mass4 ,london empties itself on this all-important day1 and proceeds to ,epsom by every possible means of locomotion4 ,the grand stand1 a handsome and commodious structure1 is quickly filled to overflowing4 ,there are numerous other stands4 ,the appearance of the ,downs1 with the countless booths and the waving multitude which cover it as far as the eye can reach1 is a spectacle that cannot fail to thrill the soul of the most phlegmatic4 ,no other event in ,england can concentrate such an amount of interest and excitement as is found on the scene of the ,derby4 ,every one is in high spirits3 young and old1 men1 women and children all seem merry and happy1 laughing1 singing1 dancing along on this one great day of the year4 ,behold the party on our right4 ,a large wagon contains ten or more men and women1 who are singing and laughing in great glee1 and who invite us to join them4 ,here a group of a half dozen men with musical instruments at their sides are singing to their own accompaniment4 ,the dust rises in clouds1 and we are covered from head to foot with it as with a garment3 we all wear veils pinned around our heads to protect our eyes4 ,at last we reach ,epsom ,hill1 and here we pay two guineas for the admission of our party and conveyance4 ,we are also entitled to a place anywhere on the hill which overlooks the race-course4 ,our horses are picketed after being taken from the wagon1 and our two attendants spread before us a most sumptuous repast4 ,coaches of every kind are so thickly jumbled together that for a vast distance the hill seems covered with a coat of dark paint4 ,illustration3 ,a short run of an hour4 7,see page #hc47 ,thousands and thousands of men1 women and children are assembled upon this hillside1 while tens of thousands fill the stands and encircle the race-course4 ,it is estimated that no less than from one hundred thousand to one hundred and fifty thousand persons are massed together at these races4 ,the race-course is not like those in the ,united ,states1 but is a sodded strip extending about half a mile in a straight line4 ,the ringing of a bell announces the commencement of the races1 and the mass of humanity surges to and fro in great excitement4 ,now is the book-maker's time1 and he passes hither and thither1 shouting his offers to the enthusiastic multitude1 who accept or reject his propositions with eagerness or scorn1 corresponding with their knowledge or ignorance of the horses ventured4 ,gambling and betting are at their height3 vast sums of money change hands at the conclusion of the races1 and many inexperienced as well as reckless ones leave the field at night ruined men4 ,meanwhile the confusion is indescribable4 ,but these sounds drop away1 and silence prevails as five slender well-shaped racers appear1 ridden by jockeys1 but when the wild mad race begins in which each endeavors to outdo the others1 the excitement and tumult know no bounds3 shouts1 groans1 cheers fill the air1 and every eye is strained along the course3 one could readily believe that a whole world of mad spirits has been let loose to fill the air with their hoarse discordant sounds4 ,as the winning horse reaches the goal1 a placard of large dimensions1 on which his number is conspicuously painted1 is raised within full view of the swaying crowd4 ,the shouts and cheers burst forth afresh1 and jubilee and pandemonium mingle their extremes in a scene to be imagined only by those who have experienced it4 ,as the first excitement cools1 bets are paid1 and accounts squared4 ,again the bell rings3 another race1 and a repetition of the previous scene1 and so it continues for several hours4 ,but the racing is not the sole attraction1 as is evidenced by the crowds surrounding the refreshment booths and side tents1 where for a small fee one may see the ,fat ,woman1 the ,skeleton ,man1 or the ,double-,headed ,boy2 or listen to the colored minstrels who charm the soul with plantation melodies2 or have his fortune told in the gypsy tent by a dark-eyed maid in gorgeous attire1 who will tell of a wonderful future which is sure to come true4 ,or you may have your photograph taken on the spot1 and finished while you wait4 ,here is a phonograph representing a variety entertainment1 and the little group around it are laughing heartily at the jokes of the funny man1 the ventriloquist1 and the story-teller4 ,here are fine bands of musicians1 and dozens of oddities1 and curious tricksters3 and the whole forms one grand panorama of human life1 the counterpart of which is to be seen nowhere else in the world4 ,at five o'clock1 the horses are harnessed to our tally-ho1 and with smiling but dusty and sunburned faces we bid farewell to the scene of gayety and start for home4 ,every road and byway in the surrounding country is swarming with people1 and the scale of pleasure1 disappointment1 grief1 hilarity and fatigue is reflected in the countenances of riders and pedestrians4 ,here is a group1 overheated1 weary1 dejected1 trudging slowly along the way1 interchanging scarcely a word with each other3 here a merry party1 filled with life1 singing1 laughing1 recounting the events of the day1 as they wander on1 arm in arm4 ,now a little lame boy smiles in our faces from the tiny cart which his sister pushes cheerily forward1 and now a gay belle dashes by in a carriage drawn by fast horses1 holding the ribbons and whip in correct style1 while her companion leans back1 indolently enjoying the situation4 ,the countenances of the men tell various tales1 as the triumphs or failures of the day are expressed in their faces4 ,some few wear a stolid1 impassive air1 while others talk1 talk1 talk1 as though they have never had an opportunity till now4 ,as we ride along amid the stupendous throngs1 many thoughts are aroused1 and many a picture is put away in the recesses of memory to be brought forth and pondered over on a future day4 ,with the shades of night the curtain falls upon a scene of such magnitude that the brain is weary of contemplating it1 and is glad to find temporary forgetfulness in tired nature's sweet restorer4 ,and so ends the great ,derby ,day4 ,illustration3 ,the chalky cliffs of ,dover4 7,see page #hc47 ,scenes in the ,gay ,capital4 ,scenes in the ,gay ,capital4 ,dover to ,calais--,paris--,the ,gay ,capital by ,night--,boulevards--,life in the ,streets--,champs ,elysees--,place de la ,concorde--,arc d',etoile--,place ,vendome--,louvre--,opera ,house--,palais ,royal--,church of the ,invalides--,versailles--,notre ,dame--,jardin ,mabille--,the ,madeleine--,the ,pantheon--,the ,banks of the ,seine--,french ,funeral ,ceremonies--,la ,morgue--,pere ,lachaise4 ,we travel from ,london to ,dover by train1 thence by steamer to ,calais4 ,the chalky cliffs of ,dover with their high precipitous sides are a pleasant and restful farewell picture of the shores of old ,england4 ,a short run of an hour or more lands us amid scenes so different from those of the past few weeks that we feel that the magician's wand has again been exercised and the ,presto1 change1 has transported us to a region of maliciously disposed genii1 who will not understand us1 or allow us to comprehend their mysterious utterances2 and the transformation scene is complete as we enter ,paris1 the home of the light1 the gay1 the fantastic4 ,let the lover of the bright1 the gay1 the jovial1 visit the broad boulevards of ,paris by night1 especially the ,avenue des ,champs ,elysees1 which seems to be the favorite promenade of the populace4 ,upon both sides are groves of trees1 brilliantly illuminated by myriads of colored lights1 and here amid these bowers is to be found every variety of entertainment for the people4 ,games of chance are played in the gay booths1 ,punch and ,judy shows attract crowds of children1 wonderful feats of horsemanship are performed1 singers in aerial costumes draw many to the ,cafes ,chantants1 and the lights of innumerable cabs and carriages flit to and fro in every direction like will-o'-the-wisps4 ,here is fine military music1 as well as exhibitions of skillful playing on almost every known instrument4 ,the wide boulevards are long1 straight and marvels of beauty1 with their lovely gardens1 handsome houses1 and fine shops4 ,there are strong contrasts in the lives of those one sees upon these streets under the gaslight4 ,i think ,dante's three realms are pretty clearly represented along the avenues of ,paris1 beneath the starry dome of heaven1 and within these gayly decorated booths and cafes4 ,here may be seen the high and the low1 the rich and the poor1 the grave and the gay1 the innocent and the hardened in guilt1 the adventurer and his unsuspecting victim4 ,and this heterogeneous throng1 this careless pleasure-loving crowd1 may be seen drifting from one point to another till the cock crows the warning of approaching dawn4 ,the streets of ,paris by night afford abundant material for the artist1 the photographer1 the poet1 author and clergyman2 as well as the adventurer4 ,here indeed1 if anywhere1 one may read the human heart1 ,its strange1 mysterious depths explore4 ,what tongue could tell1 or pen impart ,the riches of its hidden lore8 ,the ,place de la ,concorde is the most beautiful square in ,paris4 ,from its centre are magnificent views of the grand boulevards and many of the handsome public buildings1 and here are the great bronze fountains marking the historic spot upon which stood the guillotine during the ,french ,revolution4 ,the lovely walks1 the sparkling waters1 and the statues and monuments1 the obelisk1 the merry strollers1 and picturesque tableaux seen at every turn are positively enchanting4 ,up the broad vista of the ,champs ,elysees the eye rests upon the wonderful ,arc d',etoile1 one of the most conspicuous monuments in ,paris4 ,it stands in the ,place d',etoile1 one of the most fashionable sections of the city1 and is surrounded by elegant residences and pleasant gardens4 ,from this point radiate twelve of the most beautiful avenues in ,paris1 and from the summit of the arch one can see for miles down these grand boulevards4 ,the magnificent arch of triumph1 commenced in #ahjf by ,napoleon1 was not finished until #ahcf4 ,it is a vast structure1 rising one hundred and fifty feet from the ground4 ,the great central arch is ninety feet high and forty-five feet wide1 and is crossed by a spacious transverse arch4 ,upon the outside of the arch are groups of splendidly executed statuary1 representing scenes of conquest and allegorical figures4 ,a spiral staircase leads to the platform on top1 where one beholds this superb prospect which well deserves its world-wide celebrity4 ,we come upon the ,place ,vendome through the ,rue de la ,paix1 and here stands the great historic column1 erected by the first ,napoleon in commemoration of his victories over the ,russians and ,austrians4 ,the monument is constructed of twelve hundred pieces of cannon1 captured in the campaign of #ahje4 ,upon the pedestal and around the shaft which is one hundred and thirty-five feet high1 are bas-reliefs representing warlike implements and the history of the war from the departure of the troops from ,boulogne to its end on the famous field of ,austerlitz4 ,in front of the central entrance to the court of the ,tuileries1 in the ,place du ,carrousel1 is the ,arc de ,triomphe du ,carrousel1 also erected by ,napoleon ,i41 in #ahjf1 in imitation of the triumphal arch of ,severus at ,rome4 ,in the garden of the ,tuileries1 with its old-time atmosphere1 its statues1 fountains and pillars1 its groves and terraces1 its historic ruins1 its lovely flower-beds1 we find a quaint and charming picture of a past age2 yet when these groves and paths resound with the hum of human voices1 when the many chairs and benches are filled with joyous human beings1 the link between the past and present is established1 and we are in one of the favorite resorts of the ,parisians of to-day4 ,between the ,tuileries and the ,louvre is ,napoleon's triumphal ,arc du ,carrousel--or rather between the courtyards of the two famous piles1 which now form one continuous structure of magnificent architectural design1 whose facade is adorned with ,corinthian columns1 elaborate sculptures and lofty pavilions4 ,groups of statuary1 representing the most distinguished men of ,france1 allegorical figures1 floral designs and other decorations on a vast scale ornament these magnificent pavilions4 ,the space enclosed by the old and new ,louvres and the ,tuileries is about sixty acres4 ,some of the most beautiful of the architectural designs of the ,louvre were completed by ,napoleon ,i41--to whom it owes much of its restoration1--from the drawings of ,perrault1 the famous author of ,bluebeard1 and the ,sleeping ,beauty4 ,we cross a square and quickly find ourselves in the garden of the ,palais ,royal1 once the ,palais ,cardinal1 and the home of ,richelieu4 ,the ground floor of the palace is occupied by shops4 ,the garden which is enclosed by the four sides of the square1 is about a thousand feet long and nearly four hundred feet wide4 ,here is a quadruple row of elms1 also long flower-beds1 shrubbery1 a fountain and some statues4 ,a military band plays here in the afternoon1 but the garden presents the gayest scene in the evening1 when it is brilliantly illuminated1 and the chairs under the elms1 as well as the long walks are filled with gay pleasure-seekers4 ,there is a magnificent opera house near the ,grand ,hotel1 whose vast exterior is ornamented with beautiful statuary1 medallions1 gilding and other rich decorations4 ,in the ,church of the ,invalides we find the tomb of ,napoleon ,i41 who in his will expressed a desire that his ashes might rest on the banks of the ,seine1 in the midst of the ,french people whom he had loved so well4 ,the open circular crypt is beneath the lofty dome1 whose light falls upon it through colored glass1 and with a wonderful effect4 ,the pavement of the crypt is a mosaic1 representing a great crown of laurels1 within which are inscribed the names of ,napoleon's most important victories2 and twelve colossal figures symbolizing conquests1 surround the wreath4 ,the sarcophagus rests upon the mosaic pavement within the crypt1 which is twenty feet in depth4 ,this is an enormous block of red sandstone1 weighing more than sixty tons1 which surmounts another huge block supported by a splendid rock of green granite4 ,the scene is solemn and grandly impressive1 the faint bluish light from above1 producing an effect wholly indescribable4 ,in the higher of the two cupolas1 directly over the crypt1 is a painting1 with figures which appear of life-size even at this great distance1 of ,christ presenting to ,st4 ,louis the sword with which he vanquished the enemies of ,christianity4 ,here is ,versailles1 with its little park of twelve miles in extent1 and its great park of forty1 with its beautiful fountains and grottos1 its wonderful groves and flower-beds4 ,here are velvety lawns adorned with fine statuary1 green alleys1 shrubberies and terraces1 in which art and nature are so cunningly intermingled that they are often mistaken for each other4 ,the fountains are representations of mythological characters1 and the figures are carried out in their immediate surroundings4 ,apollo is in his grotto1 served by seven graceful nymphs3 while close by the steeds of the sun-god are being watered by tritons4 ,again1 the basin of this god appears surrounded by tritons1 nymphs and dolphins1 with ,neptune and ,amphitrite in the centre1 reposing in an immense shell4 ,latona1 ,apollo and ,diana are represented by a fine group3 the goddess is imploring ,jupiter to punish the ,lycian peasants who have refused her a draught of water1 while all around her1 in swift answer to her appeal1 are the peasants1 some partially transformed1 others wholly changed into huge frogs and tortoises1 condemned here to an endless penalty of casting jets of water toward the offended deity4 ,here is the famous old cathedral of ,notre ,dame de ,paris with which ,victor ,hugo has made the world familiar4 ,this grand ,gothic structure was commenced in the twelfth century1 and finished in the fourteenth4 ,we view its exterior from a position facing the fine west facade1 with its wonderful rose window between the huge square towers4 ,the three beautiful portals are ornamented with rich sculptures and imposing statuary4 ,these doors form a succession of receding arches1 dating from the early part of the thirteenth century4 ,the central portion is a fine representation of the ,last ,judgment4 ,the interior is vast and impressive with its vaulted arches and long rows of columns4 ,the ancient stained glass of ,notre ,dame is represented by three magnificent rose windows4 ,from the summit of the tower there is a glorious view of the ,seine and its picturesque banks and bridges3 indeed one of the loveliest views in ,paris4 ,another famous and beautiful edifice is the ,madeleine1 or church of ,st4 ,mary ,magdalene1 which stands in an open space not far from the ,place de la ,concorde4 ,it is in the form of a ,grecian temple1 surrounded by ,corinthian columns1 and the flight of twenty-eight steps by which one approaches the church1 extends across its entire breadth4 ,the great bronze doors are adorned with illustrations of the ten commandments4 ,within1 the walls and floors are of marble richly ornamented1 and the side chapels contain fine statues1 and paintings of scenes from the life of ,mary ,magdalene4 ,the high altar is a magnificent marble group representing angels bearing ,mary ,magdalene into ,paradise4 ,this whole interior is indescribably beautiful1 and to enter into its details one would require a volume4 ,from this sublime spectacle we pass to the ,church of ,st4 ,genevieve1 the protectress of the city of ,paris1 familiarly known as the ,pantheon4 ,this also is a magnificent structure1 with three rows of beautiful ,corinthian columns supporting its portico4 ,the handsome pediment above this portico contains a splendid group of statuary in high relief1 representing ,france in the act of distributing garlands to her famous sons4 ,the central figure is fifteen feet in height4 ,the edifice is in the form of a ,greek cross1 surmounted by a majestic dome1 two hundred and eighty feet high4 ,within the church the spacious rotunda is encircled by ,corinthian columns which support a handsome gallery1 and he who ascends to the dome will have an opportunity of observing closely the wonderful painting1 covering a space of thirty-seven hundred square feet1 which represents ,st4 ,genevieve receiving homage from ,clovis1 the first ,christian monarch of ,france1 ,charlemagne1 ,st4 ,louis1 and ,louis ,,xviii41 while the royal martyrs of the ,french ,revolution are pictured in the heavenly regions above4 ,in the gloomy vaults below we behold the tombs of a number of eminent men1 among them those of ,rousseau1 ,voltaire1 and ,soufflot1 the architect of the ,pantheon4 ,in the middle of the vaults is an astonishing echo4 ,the roll of a drum here would sound like the thunder of artillery2 a board dropped upon the pavement is like the report of a cannon1 and the reverberations are repeated over and over again as though these subterranean spirits are loth to resign the opportunity of speech so seldom afforded them4 ,the tourist in ,paris rarely fails to spend at least one evening in the ,jardin ,mabille2 that is the male tourist1 who is curious to behold life in all its phrases1 and whom the fame of the garden attracts as the candle draws the moth4 ,this is a pretty spot1 with bowery paths1 gay flowers1 sparkling fountains1 arbors and sheltered corners where lovers and others may enjoy tete-a-tetes undisturbed1 and refreshments may be ordered to suit purses of all dimensions4 ,there is a good orchestra on the brilliantly illuminated stand1 and here the soubrette is in the height of her glory1 while the better class of the visitors are as a rule1 only spectators4 ,there is some pretty gay dancing here1 but order is preserved4 ,on certain nights fine displays of fireworks attract many spectators4 ,but the great feature is the dance1 and the proprietors generally employ some girls distinguished by peculiar grace1 beauty1 or other characteristics who serve as magnets to the light and pleasure-loving throngs4 ,but why attempt to give even a faint idea of the innumerable attractions of the city whose abundant resources bewilder the tourist whose time is limited4 ,it teems with life4 ,it is overflowing with beauty1 passion and love4 ,wandering along its gay boulevards1 whether in the bright sunshine1 or beneath the starry vault of night1 with picturesque mansions or gay shops on either side1 or amid the bowery paths and bewitching avenues1 the gardens1 statues1 music and laughter1 one feels that he is in an enchanted land1 where high and low1 rich and poor share alike in the universal beauty and happiness4 ,the charming banks of the ,seine offer endless attractions4 ,here are many beautiful bridges1 from which one may have picturesque views of the lovely gardens and palaces4 ,these bridges are handsomely ornamented with statuary1 bronzes1 and reliefs1 and bear interesting inscriptions4 ,floating bathing establishments are to be seen along these banks1 and swimming schools for both sexes4 ,here are also large floats or boats capable of accommodating at least fifty women1 who wash their clothing in the ,seine4 ,it is quite interesting to watch these robust girls and women1 as they pat and slap the heaps of muslin with the large paddles provided for this purpose4 ,when a death occurs in a family of the middle class in ,paris1 it is customary to drape the whole lower story of the house with black1 and place the body of the deceased in the front room4 ,holy water is placed at the head1 also candles and a crucifix1 and any one may enter and view the body1 or sprinkle it with holy water1 and offer a prayer for the soul of the departed4 ,the men who pass a house so distinguished reverently uncover their heads3 they also take off their hats on the appearance of a funeral1 and remain so until the procession has passed4 ,for him who is interested in such sights1 the morgue presents a curious but sad attraction4 ,here lie on marble slabs1 kept cool by a continuous stream of water1 the bodies of unknown persons who have met their death in the river or by accident4 ,their clothing is suspended above their heads1 and any one may enter and view these silent rows4 ,after a certain period1 if not identified1 they are buried at the public expense4 ,i behold many pathetic sights here1 as broken-hearted relatives find their worst fears realized and lost and erring ones are recognized4 ,sad1 sad are the pictures to be seen at the morgue4 ,here is a fair young girl1 of not more than twenty years1 resting peacefully upon her marble bed1 her troubles in this world over forever4 ,her body was found yesterday floating on the ,seine4 ,one more unfortunate ,weary of breath1 ,sadly importunate1 ,gone to her death4 ,touch her not scornfully2 ,think of her mournfully1 ,gently and humanly2 ,not of the stains of her1 ,all that remains of her ,now is pure womanly4 ,make no deep scrutiny ,into her mutiny ,rash and undutiful3 ,past all dishonor1 ,death has left on her ,only the beautiful4 ,pere ,lachaise1 once an old ,jesuit stronghold1 is now the largest cemetery in ,paris4 ,it is said that there are more than eighteen thousand monuments here4 ,the older part is much crowded1 and we find here famous names connected with every age and profession4 ,here is a granite pyramid1 here one of white marble1 and here the love of a nation commemorates with flowers the grave of a man whose resting-place no lofty monument marks1 but who lives forever in the hearts of the ,french people4 ,here a monument whose sides exhibit bas-reliefs of the fable of the fox and stork1 and the wolf and lamb1 is surmounted by the figure of a fox carved in black marble4 ,this is the tomb of ,lafontaine4 ,the little ,gothic chapel yonder is the tomb of ,abelard1 whose effigy lies upon the sarcophagus within1 and beside it is that of ,heloise4 ,this double monument is very lovely1 although the signs of neglect and decay are plainly visible4 ,the military chiefs of ,napoleon's day sleep in this cemetery1 and here lie the mortal remains of ,st4 ,pierre1 the author of ,paul and ,virginia1 of the great painter1 ,david1 of ,pradier1 the sculptor1 the actress ,rachel1 and hundreds of others with whose names we are all familiar4 ,the grounds are picturesque with winding paths1 and cypress groves1 and wreaths and flowers everywhere testify to the loving remembrance in which the dead are held by the living4 ,the elevated position of ,pere ,lachaise gives one a fine view of the city4 ,the grounds when first laid out in #ahjd1 covered upward of forty acres2 they now extend over more than two hundred acres1 and it is said that #be1jjj1jjj have been expended in monuments since this cemetery was opened4 ,antwerp and the ,city of ,windmills4 ,antwerp and the ,city of ,windmills4 ,from ,paris to ,antwerp--,along the ,route--,thrifty ,farmers--,antwerp--,dogs in ,harness--,the ,river--,old ,churches--,chimes--,an ,inappreciative ,listener--,steen ,museum--,instruments of ,torture--,lace ,industry--,living ,expenses--,hospitality--,the ,city of ,windmills--,watery ,highways--,a ,city of ,canals--,the ,maas ,river--,the ,houses on the ,canals--,travel by ,boats--,novel ,scenes--,costly ,headgear--,dutch ,costumes--,powerful ,draught ,horses--,no ,bonbons--,chocolate ,candy--,in the ,market-,place--,the ,belle of the ,market--,photographs--,wooden ,shoes--,drawbridges--,blowing the ,horn--,ancient ,relics--,the ,sword of ,columbus4 ,the country between ,paris and ,antwerp is delightful1 and very different from the lovely landscapes of ,england4 ,farms1 towns1 villages1 all present a novel aspect1 and the people speak a language very strange to our ears4 ,the great fields along the road are not fenced in but are only distinguished from one another by the difference in the appearance of the crops4 ,in ,england1 as ,i have said1 there are beautiful hedges everywhere separating the fields and meadows4 ,here are strong men and women working side by side in the fields4 ,here are buxom country lasses1 rope in hand1 one end of which is attached to the horns of the leader of a herd of cattle4 ,these are glowing pictures1 and the clean farmhouses1 fields and roads are abundant evidences of the industry and thrift of the people4 ,antwerp may well be termed a city of charms and fascinations4 ,it is the most attractive and interesting town in ,belgium1 and at the same time one of the strongest fortresses in ,europe4 ,our first impression of this place is of clean orderly streets1 paved with the square ,belgian blocks which endure so well the wear and tear of constant travel4 ,the houses and shops are of a quaint1 ancient style of architecture1 and very picturesque effect4 ,during the middle ages1 ,antwerp was a very important1 as well as wealthy city1 and its splendid docks1 its wonderful cathedral1 its magnificent paintings all testify that a period of exceptional prosperity has been granted to it in the past4 ,a strange sight are the heavy freight wagons1 with their broad wheels and various loads1 drawn by large powerful dogs4 ,in many cases the dogs1 of which there are sometimes two or three1 are strapped under the body of the wagon by a kind of leather harness1 or1 if the owner be too poor1 rope is substituted4 ,a man or woman assists in drawing the load1 which is frequently so massive as to appear disproportioned to the combined strength of man and beast4 ,the dogs are bred and trained for their peculiar vocation1 and are never allowed to shirk their part of the burden imposed upon them4 ,should they attempt to do so1 they are quickly recalled to their duty by a small whip1 hence the maximum result may be obtained from their labor4 ,their muscular limbs show plainly that they possess great strength and endurance4 ,large powerful draught horses with well defined muscles are also used4 ,these horses must weigh fully from twelve to sixteen hundred pounds1 and when four or six are harnessed abreast1 tons of merchandise may be moved in one load4 ,antwerp1 a city of about #bfj1jjj inhabitants1 is one of the greatest seaports of ,europe1 having splendid facilities for ships of every size1 and huge warehouses for the landing and storage of immense quantities of merchandise4 ,it is finely situated on the ,schelde1 which is at this point one third of a mile wide and thirty feet deep1 and serves as an outlet for the commerce of ,germany as well as ,belgium4 ,the town was founded in the seventh century1 and has passed through many vicissitudes1 attaining the summit of its glory under the ,emperor ,charles ,v41 about the close of the fifteenth century4 ,at that period it is said that thousands of vessels lay in the ,schelde at one time1 and a hundred or more arrived and departed daily4 ,its decline began under the ,spanish rule1 when the terrors of the ,inquisition banished thousands of its most valuable citizens1 who sought refuge in other countries1 especially in ,england1 where they established silk factories1 and assisted greatly in stimulating the commerce of the country4 ,after scenes of war and frightful devastation1 varied by brief seasons of prosperity1 the tide of success once more returned to the old harbors about #ahfc1 and since then its commerce has increased in a greater ratio than that of any other ,european city4 ,the ,flemish population predominates1 and its characteristics are those of a ,german town4 ,we enjoy many lovely views along the river frontage1 where dozens upon dozens of ships lining the banks1 offer a variety of pictures to the lover of water scenes1 besides the fine prospect of the town from the river4 ,illustration3 ,the largest and handsomest ,gothic church in the ,netherlands4 7,see page #ajg47 ,that the ,cathedral is the first attraction for the tourist goes without saying1 and those are well repaid who climb far up into its magnificent spire1 even beyond the great group of bells that captivate the soul with their wonderful sweetness and melody4 ,at a height of four hundred feet1 the vast prospect spread out before one is indescribably beautiful4 ,this ,cathedral1 the largest and handsomest ,gothic church in the ,netherlands1 was begun in #aceb1 but was not completed until about #afaf4 ,the chimes consist of ninety-nine bells1 the smallest of which is only fifteen inches in circumference1 while the largest weighs eight tons4 ,the chimes are rung every fifteen minutes1 a musical reminder that the soul of man1 no matter what his occupation1 should be elevated by continual aspiration toward the living ,god4 ,oh1 these beautiful chimes6 ,what wondrous harmony they peal forth1 and what a multitude of loving thoughts they gather up and waft hourly to the very gates of heaven6 ,a stranger in the town1 and a traveller1 made the remark to me that these bells must be very annoying1 ringing at such short intervals1 and especially at night4 ,it is worse than a swarm of mosquitoes1 he said1 for one can escape the attentions of these insects by placing a net over his couch1 but the piercing sounds of these monstrous bells penetrate one like the chill of zero weather4 ,this reminded me of a man who shared our compartment in one of the ,french railway cars1 who interrupted my enthusiastic remarks on ,westminster ,abbey1 its exquisite associations1 and the sacred atmosphere which impressed all who came within its hallowed walls1 by an eager question regarding the luncheon to be served an hour later4 ,the interior of the ,cathedral impresses one with its grand simplicity1 and the long vistas of its six aisles present a fine effect4 ,here is ,rubens' famous masterpiece1 the ,descent from the ,cross1 and his earlier painting1 the ,elevation of the ,cross1 both magnificent works1 remarkable for the easy and natural attitudes of the figures4 ,the high altarpiece is an ,assumption by ,rubens1 in which the ,virgin is pictured in the clouds surrounded by a heavenly choir1 with the apostles and other figures below4 ,there are many other paintings here2 also stained glass windows1 both ancient and modern4 ,the tower is an open structure of beautiful and elaborate design1 from which lovely views may be seen during the journey to its summit4 ,another interesting landmark is the ,steen originally forming part of the ,castle of ,antwerp1 but in #aedi ,charles ,v4 made it over to the burghers of ,antwerp4 ,it was afterward the seat of the ,spanish ,inquisition4 ,it is now occupied by the ,museum van ,oudheden1 a collection of ancient and curious relics from the ,roman times till the eighteenth century4 ,within this building one may view the identical instruments of torture so mercilessly used by the ,spanish inquisitors in the name of religion4 ,it would not be difficult to photograph these diabolical inventions1 for many of them are quite free from the surrounding objects1 and not encased4 ,in this collection we see also specimens of antique furniture1 and a variety of ornaments1 coins1 costumes1 tapestry curtains1 ancient prints and engravings1 and many other objects well worthy of observation4 ,in ,antwerp we have the opportunity of seeing some exquisite laces and embroideries4 ,a visit to one of the many establishments here cannot fail to interest the stranger4 ,at one of the shops we are conducted to a room in which a dozen girls are at work upon a delicate piece of lace4 ,they have been engaged upon this masterpiece for about three months1 and the proprietor tells us that as much more time will be required to finish it4 ,the design is a huge web1 in the centre of which is the sly spider apparently watching the victims who have strayed beyond the line of safety4 ,a number of handsome and rare specimens of this valuable handwork are exhibited in the shop window1 and one's desire to possess them may be satisfied by a moderate expenditure of money4 ,antwerp is the city of ,rubens4 ,we find his tomb in the beautiful church of ,st4 ,jacques1 rich in carvings and noble paintings1 not far from the fine altarpiece painted by his hand4 ,he lies in the ,rubens ,chapel1 and here too are monuments of two of his descendants4 ,the house in which the illustrious artist died stands in a street named for him1 and in the ,place ,verte1 formerly the churchyard of the ,cathedral1 stands a bronze statue of ,rubens1 thirteen feet in height upon a pedestal twenty feet high4 ,at the feet of the master lie scrolls and books1 also brushes1 palette and hat2 allusions to the talented diplomatist and statesman1 as well as to the painter4 ,one need not feel alarmed as to his expenses in this charming old town1 for comfortable accommodations and good board may be enjoyed at less than moderate rates4 ,i love this dear city1 not only for its magnificent ,cathedral1 its rare paintings1 its picturesque surroundings2 but also for the remarkable hospitality of its people1 their genial manner1 their smiling faces4 ,their candor and honesty win the admiration and the heart of the tourist1 and the stranger is quickly at home1 and able to enjoy most fully the many attractions which the place affords4 ,illustration3 ,the place is intersected everywhere by canals4 7,see page #aac47 ,but the time has come to bid it adieu2 we take the train and in two hours find ourselves in the ever quaint and picturesque town of ,rotterdam1 fitly named the ,city of ,windmills4 ,comfortable quarters may be found here at the ,maas ,hotel4 ,rotterdam1 whose population is something over two hundred thousand1 is the second city in commercial importance in ,holland4 ,among its numerous attractions are art galleries1 parks1 gardens1 the markets1 bridges and canals1 without mentioning the many windmills which wave their arms in blessing over the city4 ,the place is intersected everywhere by canals1 all deep enough for the passage of heavily laden ships1 and with such names as the ,oude ,haven1 ,scheepmakershaven1 ,leuvehaven1 ,nieuwe ,haven1 ,wynhaven1 ,blaak1 and ,haringvliet4 ,our hotel is situated upon the bank of the ,maas ,river1 and our windows overlook this body of water1 which is in reality a highway4 ,instead of wagons drawn by strong muscular horses1 however1 barges1 schooners1 sail boats1 and every kind of small craft1 overflowing with fruits1 vegetables and other produce1 traverse the river as well as the canals4 ,looking over these watery roads1 the mind is confused by the hundreds of boats which seem inextricably mingled in one great mass1 and appear to form a blockade as far as the eye can reach4 ,rotterdam might fitly add to its title of ,city of ,windmills1 that of the ,city of ,canals4 ,houses1 stores and other buildings are built directly upon the banks1 and in fact1 the foundations of these form the sides of the canals4 ,in many cases the balconies of residences overhang the water1 and passages are made beneath1 by means of which produce1 freight and other articles are conveyed to and from the buildings by boats1 much as the wagons deliver goods in our cities from the streets to the houses4 ,all these novel sights impress the visitor with the great difference between the manners and customs of this nation and our own2 the result of the peculiar environment of the two countries4 ,a stroll about the city affords abundant opportunity for interesting observations4 ,here one sees hundreds of ,dutch women in their costly headgear of gold and silver1 heirlooms of many generations4 ,these head ornaments sometimes cover the entire scalp1 and have curious filigree additions extending over the ears and temples4 ,the head is first covered with a scrupulously clean and beautiful lace cap1 upon which the gold or silver ornament is placed4 ,these heirlooms are valued beyond all price1 and ,i have handled some which are two hundred years old1 and which are held as sacred charges to be transmitted to posterity4 ,as we traverse the streets of this quaint city1 we feel indeed that fashion has stood still here for many years4 ,the custom is universal throughout ,holland for the natives of the different provinces1 as ,volendam1 ,marken1 ,brock1 etc41 to wear in public1 and especially when travelling1 the costume peculiar to their own province1 and it is by no means uncommon to see many odd and quaintly dressed women in close proximity to one another1 each one representing by some peculiarity1 a different province or section of the country4 ,for instance2 when ,i see the skirt of blue homespun made in full folds1 and worn with a jacket of striped red and white1 and the peaked bonnet trimmed with red and white tape1 ,i know that the wearer is a native of the island of ,marken4 ,these various costumes1 all gay and picturesque1 are the source of great pleasure to the stranger1 and add new life and interest to his travels in this country4 ,here also we notice the huge1 powerful draught horses1 with their massive hoofs and shaggy legs1 drawing strange looking wagons laden with curious boxes and furniture4 ,the wooden shoes worn by the working classes also attract our attention and many other novel sights and customs give us the impression that we have chartered one of ,jules ,verne's original conveyances and wandered off to a country not located on this earthly planet4 ,wishing to purchase some bonbons1 we enter a candy shop and ask the fair maid behind the counter to put up a pound of this confection3 our amazement is great when she replies that this form of sweetmeat is not to be found in ,rotterdam4 ,what1 ,i exclaim1 no sweets for the sweet girls of ,holland8 ,no1 only chocolate candy4 ,and this indeed is the only kind of bonbon to be had in ,rotterdam4 ,the sweet chocolate is moulded into various shapes4 ,it is delicious1 excelling in purity and flavor that which is made in any other part of the world4 ,illustration3 ,in many cases the balconies of residences overhang the water4 7,see page #aad47 ,our guide is very attentive and energetic2 and anxious to show us everything of interest about the town1 he conducts us through the numerous market-places4 ,at one of these some amusement is excited by my photographs and sketches of the market people and the buyers4 ,the market man stands beside his wares with a happy1 good-natured face that seems to say that the cares and worries of this world affect him not at all4 ,the whole scene is like some vividly colored picture1 and ,i think as ,i look upon it that this life bears with it pleasures of which we of the outside world know nothing4 ,apparently the people of this country possess the rare blessing of contentment with the lot which ,god has bestowed upon them4 ,an old man and woman are particularly anxious for me to photograph their daughter1 who they assure me is the belle of the market4 ,this assertion1 ,i think1 may be true without much compliment to the girl1 for a homelier set of human beings it would not be easy to find4 ,after some preliminaries relating to posing and keeping back the curious country people who crowd closely around me and the camera1 ,i finally succeed in making a good picture of the ,belle of the ,rotterdam ,market1 with her father and mother on either side4 ,they are all as proud as ,punch of this performance1 and seem quite set up by the occasion4 ,one day being near to a manufacturer of the wooden shoes worn by the peasants1 our party of four slips within the shop1 and are fitted after trying on at least a dozen pairs1 to the apparent delight of ,meinherr4 ,it is necessary to wear a heavy woollen stocking to secure comfort in these shoes4 ,the ordinary ,american stocking would soon be rubbed into holes by the hard surface of the shoe4 ,indeed it is quite a feat to be able to walk rapidly and gracefully in this clumsy footwear4 ,over many of the watery streets of the city drawbridges are built1 which are opened at intervals to allow the streams of boats to pass4 ,the incessant blowing of a trumpet or horn similar to that of the tally-ho notifies the watchman of the approach of boats4 ,this sound may be heard at all hours of the day or night in any part of the city1 and is at first1 especially at night1 rather disturbing to the stranger1 but like other annoyances which are inevitable1 the exercise of a little patience and endurance will enable one to eventually like the trumpet1 or else to become as deaf to them as old ,dame ,eleanor ,spearing4 ,i know of no place in which the lover of the antique1 whether he is a collector of ancient coins1 jewels1 china1 furniture1 or a seeker after rare curios and relics1 can experience greater delight than in this old city of ,rotterdam4 ,here are hundreds of shops1 whose proprietors devote their whole lives to the accumulation of such objects1 and it is needless to say that their stock is rich and unique1 and possesses abundant variety4 ,we visit a number of these establishments1 and ,i succeed in gathering up a large assortment of old swords which please my fancy4 ,one of these is said to have been owned by ,christopher ,columbus7874 ,the shopkeeper vouches for the truth of the statement1 and as ,i am willing to believe it1 in the absence of proof to the contrary1 ,i label it as the sword of the great navigator who added a new hemisphere to our globe4 ,the remaining swords have been the personal property of lords1 generals or other warlike celebrities1 and again ,i take comfort in the thought that if the records are not truthful1 it is a minor consideration when taking into account the moderate prices which ,i have paid for the articles4 ,the artist will find in ,rotterdam a wealth of material both for figure subjects1 and odd and picturesque bits of landscape4 ,here too are wonderful interiors1 with all the quaint associations of a bygone age4 ,here are scenes on the canals1 the bridges1 and the ever changing life on the river4 ,by all means visit ,rotterdam if you desire original studies for your sketch book4 ,illustration3 ,the belle of the ,market4 7,see page #aai47 ,a ,city of ,many ,islands4 ,a ,city of ,many ,islands4 ,amsterdam--,the ,people of ,holland---,amstel ,river--,merry ,excursionists--,interesting ,institutions--,origin of the ,city--,source of ,prosperity--,a ,cousin to ,venice--,ninety ,islands--,beams and ,gables--,block and ,tackle--,old ,salesmen--,street ,markets--,haarlem--,railway ,travel at ,home and ,abroad--,ancient ,buildings--,historic ,associations--,in the ,canal--,groote ,kerk--,the ,great ,organ--,picturesque ,subjects--,zandvoort--,eau de ,cologne--,the ,beach--,dutch ,sail ,boats--,seamen--,hooded ,chairs--,peddlers--,music in ,holland and ,germany--,gypsies--,we ,meet an ,artist--,hospitality--,a ,banquet4 ,amsterdam1 the commercial capital of ,holland1 is but a short ride from ,rotterdam1 and like all the other dam cities of this region1 possesses many attractions of its own1 besides being the centre or hub from which radiate trips to many picturesque towns and other points of interest4 ,these irreverent sounding terminations do not by any means imply that the cities so called are steeped in wickedness and crime4 ,on the contrary they are remarkable as being towns of exceptional purity and honesty1 possessing churches1 libraries and schools which bear witness to the good and loving aspirations of a conscientious ,christian people4 ,the natives of ,holland are kind and peaceable in disposition1 and fair in their dealings with one another4 ,they are personally very attractive on account of the natural simplicity of their everyday lives1 and the high principle of honor and morality upon which they conduct their business transactions4 ,they train their children in accordance with these principles1 and the visitor cannot fail to appreciate their virtues1 and rest securely in the confidence that he will receive fair and courteous treatment from both young and old4 ,the ,amstel ,river1 viewed from the windows of our hotel1 presents a beautiful picture4 ,upon the opposite bank are handsome residences1 of substantial1 square and regular architecture1 while in slow1 calm motion on the river may be seen boats of every description1 many of them with a cargo of human beings2 and the gay national flags and other brilliant bunting floating in the fresh breeze have a gala appearance as the boats steam or row past our hotel4 ,merry songs and happy laughter drift back to our ears1 and it seems as though we have at last reached a land exempt from the cares and sorrows of the everyday world4 ,the ,dutch people are as a class happy and satisfied1 with a cheerful manner1 and a cordial and genuine welcome4 ,amsterdam is indeed a great city1 with numberless points of interest for the visitor1 without mentioning its museums1 art galleries1 theatres1 libraries1 churches and other institutions2 its botanical garden1 university1 parks and tramways4 ,the town was founded by ,gysbrecht ,,ii41 ,lord of ,amstel1 who built a castle here in #abjd1 and constructed the dam to which it owes its name4 ,in the fourteenth century it began to increase in importance1 becoming at that time a refuge for the merchants who were banished from ,brabant4 ,at the close of the sixteenth century1 when ,antwerp was ruined by the ,spanish war1 and many merchants1 manufacturers1 artists and other men of talent and enterprise fled from the horrors of the ,inquisition to ,holland1 ,amsterdam nearly doubled its population1 and the conclusion of peace in #afji1 and the establishment of the ,east ,india ,company combined to raise the town within a short time to the rank of the greatest commercial city in ,europe4 ,its population in #ahij1 excluding the suburbs1 was #djf1cjj4 ,amsterdam is generally at first sight compared with ,venice1 which it certainly resembles in two points4 ,both cities are intersected by numerous canals1 and the buildings of both are constructed upon piles2 but there the similarity ends4 ,there are wide1 bustling thoroughfares in ,amsterdam1 traversed by wagons and drays which could have no place in the city of gondolas and ancient palaces4 ,illustration3 ,the ,amstel ,river4 7,see page #abh47 ,the canals1 or ,grachten1 which intersect ,amsterdam in every direction1 are of various sizes1 and divide the city into ninety islands2 and these are connected by nearly three hundred bridges4 ,there are four principal1 or grand canals1 which are in broad1 handsome avenues1 bordered with trees1 and with sidewalks for pedestrians4 ,the other canals intersect these and serve to connect one part of the town with another1 as short streets cross wide highways and main thoroughfares in other places4 ,rows of fine-looking houses line the banks of these watercourses1 and as all the buildings are constructed on foundations of piles1 the old quotation of a city whose inhabitants dwell on the tops of trees like rooks1 is not without considerable truth4 ,the quaint old architecture of the stores and houses is of itself a source of great interest to the visitor4 ,we have seen so many pictures of these odd gabled and tiled roofs overhanging the windows1 that at first one has the impression of awakening from a dream to its reality4 ,remarkable order and cleanliness prevail everywhere1 adding to this feeling1 for the wear and tear of daily living do not seem to affect the almost immaculate atmosphere of the place4 ,windows are as clear as crystal1 and the woodwork of the houses everywhere looks as if freshly scrubbed and sanded4 ,projecting from the attic windows of many buildings may be seen a pole or beam1 from which hangs a block and tackle used to hoist furniture and other heavy or bulky articles from the sidewalk to the upper stories4 ,these things are not carried up the winding stairway1 as with us1 scratching and defacing the walls and paint1 as well as the furniture1 and resulting in much vexation and the utterance of unseemly swear words4 ,all this is avoided by the methods of the people of ,holland1 and the citizens of ,america would profit by adopting them1 if only as a means of avoiding the temptation to express one's feelings in violent and irreligious language4 ,among the thousand and one attractions of this interesting city1 the curious-looking old junks1 or salesmen and women stationed at various points on the streets1 are not unworthy the notice of the photographer or artist4 ,their wares consist of old scrap iron1 rusty saws1 perhaps toothless1 hammers without handles1 nails of every size1 files1 beds and other articles of furniture apparently dating back to scriptural ages4 ,such markets1 where odds and ends of every imaginable kind are gathered into piles and sold to the poorer classes of the people1 seem to be sanctioned by the authorities1 and sometimes present a very active and thriving appearance4 ,they are not unpicturesque in their odd combinations of color1 attitude and expression4 ,the great windmills along the canal1 with their huge revolving arms1 and the boats with their loads of merchandise2 the peasant women with their quaint costumes and elaborate yet funny head-dresses2 the tall ,dutch houses with their red and yellow brick fronts and lofty tiles and gables1 the beautiful avenues of elms along the grand ,grachten1 the vast docks1 with forests of masts1 and countless ships from all parts of the world1 and products of every country1 the wonderful dikes1 all form a succession of views of charming variety and individual beauty that are fascinating to the newcomer4 ,many short trips may be taken from here either by boat or train1 and he who would fill his portfolio with quaint and lovely pictures1 will find his enthusiasm aroused1 no matter in which direction he may venture1 or whether his expedition be on land or water4 ,interesting localities are always within easy reach1 and the moderate rate for transportation and accommodation render all points accessible to the traveller whose purse is of the most slender dimensions4 ,take with me the trip to ,haarlem and ,zandvoort4 ,proceeding to the ,central ,railroad ,station1 we purchase tickets which entitle us to the short ride in the usual compartment car4 ,and here one may note the difference between railroad travel throughout ,england and on the ,continent1 and the ,american system4 ,instead of having one car into which passengers of all kinds1 black and white1 rich and poor1 merchants and emigrants crowd as in free ,america1 ,european trains are divided into three sections1 viz3 first1 second and third class4 ,although the more general experience is that the second class compartments are quite as comfortable1 clean and attractive as the first class compartments1 the price of the latter is nearly double that of the former1 and the fare of the second class nearly double that of the third4 ,in many sections of ,england1 ,scotland and ,germany1 the third class accommodations are by no means unpleasant3 but do not take third class tickets when travelling in ,ireland1 for should you do so1 it is more than probable that just as you are waxing into lofty enthusiasm over the romantic and beautiful scenery around you1 ,paddy with his wife and progeny1 several pigs1 and whatever other small live stock can be conveniently or inconveniently dragged along1 will be planted by your side1 or roam about you in such unpleasant proximity as to change all your romantic visions into the most unromantic prose4 ,here we are in the quaint old town of ,haarlem1 famous in past years for its tulips1 and now noted for its well-kept gardens and avenues1 as well as for the curious old houses of brick and stone which are the delight of all the visitors to ,holland4 ,these lofty steeples and rows of ancient and picturesque houses have looked down upon many generations1 and witnessed scenes of suffering and endurance that have been registered on the pages of history2 for like ,leyden1 ,haarlem sustained a long siege during the war for independence1 and stories of the heroism of both men and women have come down through the long centuries to tell us of experiences of which these ancient structures1 stately and silent1 give no sign4 ,so well cared for are the old buildings1 that one can readily imagine that they will appear as they do to-day for many centuries to come4 ,how we enjoy this historic old place6 ,the very air we breathe seems laden with odors of the past4 ,the flower-beds are wonderfully attractive1 with their gay colors and delicious fragrance4 ,whole fields of tulips1 hyacinths1 lilies1 and other brilliant blooming plants in every shade of color are to be seen here1 and this town supplies many of the largest gardens of ,europe with roots4 ,the ,spaarne ,river winds through the town1 which possesses the characteristic cleanliness of the other cities of ,holland4 ,while driving along the bank of the canal here1 our attention is attracted by the sound of loud1 shrill cries which seem to come from the water4 ,what6 ,i say1 do the lurking spirits of the slain thus make themselves known to the living8 ,are there still lingering 'pale gliding ghosts1 with fingers dropping gore'8 ,whatever it may be1 dead or living1 ghost or mortal1 ,i bid the driver halt1 and alighting1 hasten to the edge of the canal4 ,looking into the dark muddy water1 ,i see a lad of about twelve years1 just able to keep his head above the stream1 and screaming lustily for help4 ,a young man reaches the spot at the same moment1 and plunges instantly into the canal to the rescue of the boy who is too much frightened and exhausted to give any account of himself4 ,the ,groote market is in the middle of the town1 and here is to be seen one of the finest old buildings in this part of the country4 ,this is the ancient meat market1 built in #afjc1 of brick and stone1 and quaint and picturesque enough to charm the soul of an artist with an irresistible desire to carry it home upon his canvas4 ,in the market-place also stands the ,groote ,kerk1 an imposing and lofty structure1 dating back to the end of the fifteenth century1 with its tower of two hundred and fifty-five feet adding grace and beauty to the edifice4 ,the interior will more than repay one for the time spent in examining it4 ,the old walls are whitewashed to hide the ravages of time and cover the scars1 many of which1 history tells us1 are the results of the ,spanish siege4 ,here are odd and elaborate carvings1 crude1 primitive benches1 and the crossbeams forming the ceiling alone would convince one of the antiquity of this relic of the middle ages4 ,the organ1 constructed in #agce1 was for many years looked upon as the most powerful in the world1 and still ranks as one of the largest instruments in existence4 ,it contains four keyboards1 sixty-four stops1 and five thousand pipes1 the greatest of which is fifteen inches in diameter1 and thirty two feet in length4 ,we endeavor to persuade the rector to allow us to play upon this wonderful instrument1 but he is beyond flattery1 coaxing or bribery2 faithfully adhering to the rigid rules1 which decree that recitals shall be held only on certain regular days4 ,how we long to hear the voice of this noble masterpiece which has uplifted the soul of man1 and bidden him look to ,god in his times of tribulation1 or fill this lofty dome with joyous notes of praise and thanksgiving in days of peace and prosperity4 ,i think of the stories these old walls could tell of the cruelties of the ,spanish intruders2 for here are marks too deep for paint to conceal1 or time to efface4 ,but one could write interminably of these old towns with their quaint and glowing pictures4 ,at every turn a new and attractive scene presents itself1 and we reluctantly tear ourselves away1 only half satisfied1 and proceed to ,zandvoort1 a somewhat fashionable resort on the coast of the ,noord ,zee4 ,at the railway stations and on the streets one can buy the ,cologne water in small glass bottles which is so popular throughout ,holland1 and which is sold much as peanuts and pretzels are sold in our country4 ,the quality is excellent1 and the price is so moderate that the use of this perfume is really carried to excess by tourists1 who find that it not only refreshes one after the fatigue of a journey1 but cleanses the face from dust and cinders4 ,we alight at a small unpretentious station1 the terminus of this railroad1 and walk a short distance to the beach4 ,the pure salt air seems like a delightful tonic4 ,this is a beautiful coast1 sloping gradually to the water which is very deep4 ,with the white sand for a carpet1 we wander on for miles1 feasting our eyes upon the lovely scene which at every turn presents a new attraction4 ,here are old ,dutch sail boats drawn up on the beach1 and the picture is enhanced by the groups of sailors waiting for the tide4 ,their blue homespun jackets1 rugged faces and not ungraceful attitudes are very suggestive to the artist4 ,illustration3 ,wicker chairs offer rest to the weary pedestrian4 7,see page #adj47 ,the season seems to be either early or late1 for the people along the shore are scant in number4 ,fresh looking wicker chairs1 with large comfortable seats and sheltering hoods1 stand in front of the hotels and at the water's edge1 and at a trifling cost1 offer rest to the weary pedestrian1 and protection to the shy lovers who seek to escape the embarrassing gaze of the public4 ,here is the ubiquitous and persevering fruit and cake or sandwich vendor1 with basket suspended from the shoulder1 pausing before the chairs1 or waylaying passers-by with importunities to purchase grapes1 plums1 candies and various other dainties4 ,close by us is a band of musicians with stringed instruments1 who charm us with their delightful melodies4 ,their music is superior to that which greets the ear in the streets of ,philadelphia4 ,in truth1 in ,holland and ,germany1 one rarely hears anything but good music from these bands of itinerant players1 and operatic selections of the higher class are frequently heard at the popular beer gardens of these countries4 ,a short distance off are the wagons of a gypsy encampment1 and the quick witted members of these roving tribes gain a livelihood by fortune telling4 ,we are told that they are always to be found here during the summer season1 and are quite popular among the young and the credulous1 who willingly exchange their silver for a glimpse into the future1 and the wonderful predictions of fame and fortune made by these glib tongued southerners4 ,their gay dresses1 in some of which are displayed all the colors of the rainbow1 are beautiful in effect3 and now ,i discover in one of the great hooded chairs a lady artist1 with a well covered canvas1 upon which she is painting the portrait of a handsome gypsy girl1 while the wagons and the sea form a beautiful background4 ,i enter into conversation with her1 and learn that she is from ,amsterdam1 and is filled with enthusiasm for the charms of this country4 ,she says3 ,if one will but open his eyes1 he will see delightful pictures in every corner of the province4 ,and it is true4 ,nature has indeed been lavish in her gifts to ,holland4 ,here are scenes and subjects unlimited in number1 and indescribably attractive4 ,the citizens of ,amsterdam are most kind and hospitable4 ,as an instance of their cordiality ,i mention a sumptuous banquet given in our honor by a townsman ,mr4 ,l----1 who says we must not return home without a glimpse of the social life of the city4 ,the banquet is held at the largest and most popular banqueting hall 7,maison ,couturier71 and besides our host and his family1 a few intimate friends and some young people are present4 ,at the appointed hour we are driven to a spacious and handsome building1 and are conducted to a beautiful apartment with most attractive surroundings4 ,the first floor of this hall is elegantly furnished1 and lit by electric lights4 ,flowers1 palms1 and other tropical plants adorn the halls and rooms4 ,after a cordial welcome from our host1 we are led to the banqueting hall1 where we are dazzled by the light and beauty around us1 and delighted by the artistic effect4 ,covers are laid for sixteen guests4 ,flowers1 plants and fruits are picturesquely arranged1 and even the electric lights exhibit various glowing designs4 ,the feast is prepared under the direction of an experienced chef1 and here we speedily become aware that the city of ,amsterdam is not one whit behind the great centres of the world in this line of achievement4 ,after many toasts to ,amsterdam and its people have been responded to1 the hospitalities are concluded with one to ,america and its beautiful women1 and we take our departure after three hours most delightfully spent in social intercourse with our friends4 ,upon this occasion four languages1 ,french1 ,dutch1 ,german and ,english are fluently spoken4 ,excursions to ,broek and the ,island of ,marken4 ,excursions to ,broek and the ,island of ,marken4 ,a ,charming ,journey--,fellow-,passengers--,national ,costumes--,the ,children--,a ,lovely ,landscape--,holstein ,cattle--,windmills--,irrigation--,farme rs--,a ,typical ,dutch ,village--,washing-,day--,the ,red1 ,white and ,blue--,suppose a ,bull ,should ,appear--,a ,brilliant ,picture--,drawing the ,canal ,boat--,honesty and ,cleanliness--,a ,thrifty and ,industrious ,people--,farming and ,cheese-making--,as ,evening ,falls--,scenes for an ,artist--,dead ,cities of ,holland--,monnikendam--,behind the ,age--,city ,lamps--,houses and ,people--,the ,island of ,marken--,an ,isolated ,wonderland--,first ,impressions--,rare ,holidays--,the ,family ,doctor--,absence of the ,men--,the ,fishing--,healthy and ,industrious population--,the ,women of ,marken--,pretty ,girls--,they ,will not be ,taken--,a ,valuable ,experience--,photographs4 ,a beautiful trip is that to ,broek4 ,we take the small steamer that lies in the river a short distance from our hotel1 the ,amstel1 and after a sail of three-quarters of an hour1 are landed at an insignificant station on the opposite shore4 ,here a little car with bare wooden seats running lengthwise1 and a queer looking engine waits for passengers from the boat4 ,and now we ride through a picturesque farming country1 passing numerous small stations4 ,this road terminates at ,edam1 but we do not go that far4 ,our fellow-passengers are most interesting4 ,many of the women wear their gold heirlooms with the finely embroidered caps which are so quaint and becoming1 and all wear the customary wooden shoes4 ,the men have rugged brown faces1 and sinewy arms3 some of them wear the heavy wooden shoes1 others slippers1 while a number are barefooted4 ,how they all stare at us1 and it is just as impossible for us to withdraw our eyes from them4 ,we are novel sights to each other4 ,i wonder what they think of our appearance4 ,their faces are impassive1 but ours must surely express wonder1 admiration and a strong desire on the part of one at least1 to capture these studies in color and figure that surround us on every side4 ,the children1 with their rosy cheeks and round healthy forms1 seem merry and happy1 although none of them are sociable or talkative with us4 ,they look at us in amazement4 ,this is a delightful ride over a smooth velvety road1 with rich pasture land on either side4 ,now we pass great dikes which hold back the waters from these fertile fields2 and now short canals with their little boats1 on which perhaps the ,dutch vrow in her snowy cap and gold head-dress is seated beside her husband who smokes his pipe with a meditative air4 ,the flat landscape is varied by innumerable herds of cattle1 principally of ,holstein breed1 with the great white bands encircling the bodies1 which reminds me of the story of the ,yankee who used this band for a foundation upon which to paint his sign3 ,the finest milk and cream in the world within4 ,price two cents per quart4 ,illustration3 ,the flat landscape is varied by herds of cattle4 7,see page #aec47 ,hundreds of windmills may be seen with their long wings gracefully moving at the touch of a gentle breeze1 in perfect harmony with the surrounding landscape4 ,these mills have been used for many centuries in ,holland1 which is their mother country1 and serve for draining the land1 or for manufacturing purposes4 ,they are placed upon a substantial foundation of brick or stone1 and their enormous sails describe a circle of over a hundred feet in diameter3 some run saws that cut through logs of great thickness1 while others are huge grain mills4 ,the smaller windmills are made of wood like those seen in some portions of our own country4 ,the system of irrigation by means of windmills is very complete in ,holland1 thus it is that we see everywhere such beautiful fertile fields4 ,many of the farms in this locality employ three or four1 and even more windmills for this purpose4 ,we see many farmers1 with their wives and children1 working in the fields1 and they all stop for an instant as our train passes1 to shout a merry greeting4 ,here a milkmaid in her snowy cap passes along the road4 ,flocks of sheep stand in the shadow of the trees1 and armies of quacking ducks emerge from a marshy pool and spread themselves across the green4 ,the average speed of our antediluvian express is from five to seven miles an hour1 but it is perfectly satisfactory to these deliberate people2 and as to ourselves1 we are enjoying everything too much to wish it shortened by one minute4 ,we arrive1 however1 at ,broek1 which is celebrated as one of the cleanest towns in the world4 ,it contains about sixteen hundred inhabitants1 and its narrow streets are paved with yellow bricks which are kept scrupulously clean4 ,the small frame houses have tiled roofs1 and with their flower gardens1 present an orderly appearance4 ,the whole atmosphere of the place is one of primitive simplicity4 ,some of the buildings are painted white1 some green1 and others of a variety of hues4 ,they all wear an indescribable air of repose3 and it is said that the front doors are not opened from the beginning to the end of the year1 except on the occasion of a wedding or a funeral4 ,the gardens are veritable curiosities1 with their old-fashioned flower-beds1 and box-bushes cut into various fantastic shapes1 and all so diminutive that one feels as though he has fallen upon an animated edition of the ,noah's ,ark of his childish days4 ,illustration3 ,most of the houses have a canal at the back4 7,see page #aeg47 ,most of the houses have a canal or small stream at the back1 and close by1 upon a washing-day1 the garments of the family may be seen flying in the breeze1 displaying to the stranger the prevailing colors of the community1 which are red1 white and blue4 ,red predominates1 however1 since red flannel is universally worn by the middle and lower classes in ,holland4 ,i think of the fine bull which we saw but a short time ago1 grazing so peacefully in the meadow1 and wonder what effect this exposure of tantalizing color would have upon his equanimity4 ,should he be let loose among the back gardens of ,broek upon a washing-day1 the order of this immaculate village would certainly receive a shock4 ,for once in the history of the place1 things would be topsy-turvy1 and the excitement would doubtless surpass anything previously seen in this peaceful town4 ,what beautiful and picturesque combinations are here6 ,the varying shades of green and blue1 mingled with harmonious tints of yellow1 produce a scene for the impressionist1 while the effect is enhanced by the streams and canals which wind in and out with many a turn and twist1 apparently for the sole purpose of adding to the attraction of this quaint and unique locality4 ,occasionally we see a canal boat of larger size drawn by a buxom ,dutch maiden and her brother2 or not infrequently it is the old man and his wife1 and sometimes the entire family all strenuously tugging the stout rope which is securely fastened to the bow of the boat1 while the dilapidated old craft1 laden with merchandise or produce creaks slowly on its way1 breaking the placid surface of the water with a soft musical plash4 ,honesty and truthfulness are unmistakably impressed upon the faces of all whom we meet in this section4 ,the people hereabouts do not possess the shrewd business capacity of our ,wall ,street brokers1 but they are mild and pleasant1 with a wholesome appearance of health and good appetite4 ,they are individually as clean and orderly as is their village4 ,water is as cheap here as in ,america1 but in this place there seems to be an extravagance in the use of it which far exceeds that of the same class in our country4 ,there are no beggars or idlers here4 ,the people are so thrifty and industrious that no portion of the day is wasted4 ,every one seems to have an appointed task1 even the small children1 whom we see feeding the ducks and pigs4 ,all are engaged in some useful occupation4 ,farming and cheese-making are the principal industries1 although other branches of business1 such as stock-raising1 fishing1 boat-making1 and the manufacture of wooden shoes1 are carried on to some extent4 ,our visit to the village naturally attracts some attention1 as foreigners are rarely seen in these out of the way corners4 ,as evening steals upon us1 the scene grows indescribably lovely1 for the sun in his descent illumines the whole landscape with vivid gleams of many colors4 ,the blue stream which finds its outlet in the larger river1 changes its sombre hue to one of dazzling gold1 which throws out rich reflections of clouds and foliage4 ,a fairy-like transformation seems to have taken place in the streets and houses2 and1 as we leave the village and the shades of night fall about us1 my thoughts are with the artist1 the photographer1 the impressionist1 who would feel the most exquisite delight in such an opportunity2 for he who could do justice to this landscape either with brush or camera1 would produce a picture worthy of place among the noblest works of art4 ,we have heard so much of the ,dead cities of ,holland1 and especially of the secluded life on the island of ,marken1 that we determine to see for ourselves what this term really signifies4 ,on our way thither1 we pass through the old town of ,monnikendam1 in which we behold many strange and curious sights4 ,people and buildings impress us with the idea that ,father ,time has forgotten this place altogether in his rounds of cutting down and making place for newcomers4 ,the ancient and picturesque houses look as though coeval with ,time himself2 but in truth they are only mediaeval2 it is the people who have stood still4 ,the present age has no place in their lives4 ,the population of the town numbers about twenty-three hundred1 and this is largely made up of children1 judging from the appearance of the streets4 ,the main street is wide and attractive1 but the side streets are narrow1 and all are paved with hard bricks placed edgewise4 ,at night the town is lighted by lamps balanced upon rude posts3 coal is generally used for fuel1 but some of the residents use gasoline1 which also serves for light4 ,the houses are primitive in construction1 and the people seem odd and inquisitive1 but simple and economical in dress and habit4 ,as we expect to return in a short time1 we direct our course without delay to the ,island of ,marken4 ,illustration3 ,the blue stream finds its outlet in the river4 7,see page #aei47 ,a good-sized yacht lies at anchor in the ,zuyder ,zee1 beside the banks of ,monnikendam4 ,the captain is a full-blooded ,markenite1 born and bred on the island4 ,having made arrangements with him1 we go on board and are soon on our way to the strange city3 our hearts beat more quickly1 and all eyes are eagerly strained toward it1 when the distant island appears in the direction of our yacht's bow4 ,after an hour's sail1 we come to anchor in the harbor of this secluded wonderland4 ,as we approach the town1 the view from our boat seems to justify the title which has been given to it of the ,dead ,city4 ,it lies away from everything and everybody1 and save the deep sea which surrounds it1 and which supplies its inhabitants with food1 the island of ,marken has for centuries known no association outside its own boundaries4 ,no news is carried to or from this isolated region4 ,at rare intervals an islander1 by temperament more adventurous or enterprising than his fellows1 makes the daring undertaking of a visit to ,monnikendam1 or the bolder flight to ,amsterdam1 although there are but few instances on record of such a reckless proceeding as the last4 ,the place has a population of about thirteen hundred souls1 and one may form an idea of the health of its inhabitants from the fact that one doctor1 without an assistant1 is the family physician for all the people on the island1 and we are told that calls upon his professional attention are not sufficiently frequent to keep the cobwebs from forming on his medicine chest4 ,the ,dutch language is spoken here1 and it is so rare to find any one who understands ,english1 that it is necessary to bring an interpreter as well as guide in visiting this secluded spot4 ,the inhabitants look upon us as though we have dropped from the clouds1 or sprung suddenly out of the earth4 ,it is unfortunate that we have come here on ,monday1 for on this day the men of the island go off in their fishing boats1 and do not return till ,saturday night4 ,only the old and crippled are left with the women and children4 ,sunday is the one day in the week which the men may spend with their wives and sweethearts4 ,fishing is the sole means of subsistence here4 ,the native inhabitants are industrious and economical1 but of a low type of intellect1 rarely if ever displaying interest in literary attainments4 ,health and good appetites seem to be their chief characteristics1 and a more law-abiding1 innocent and virtuous people it would be difficult to find4 ,the women are large1 muscular and well shaped1 and appear fully able to protect and care for their households in the absence of the men4 ,illustration3 ,all persuasions accomplish naught4 7,see page #afh47 ,i am quite anxious to capture1 by camera1 not by force of arms1 some of these rare types of strength and beauty1 and observing two pretty young girls standing in the doorway of one of the houses1 both perfect specimens of physical health1 ,i think this an opportunity not to be neglected4 ,what a fine picture they present with their erect forms1 their firm round arms1 rosy cheeks and bright eyes6 ,they are well proportioned1 and looking at their smiling faces one can readily understand that a physician in a locality whose residents are represented by such glowing life as that which is now before me1 may easily find time to be absent from his duties a year or two4 ,fired with enthusiasm1 ,i approach the girls who are talking to a couple of old women1 and am about to make a snap shot of the group1 when suddenly perceiving my intention1 they fly into the house like frightened deer1 to the amusement of the old women1 and the grief of the writer4 ,determined not to be outdone1 for now this picture beyond all others is the desire of my heart1 ,i enter the house and learn that the young damsels have sought refuge in the loft1 and are hiding1 ostrich like1 with their heads buried in a mass of clothing4 ,all my persuasions1 aided by those of the older women1 accomplish nought1 even the liberal offer of silver guilders is not sufficient to move these obdurate maids1 and ,i am obliged to relinquish my desire4 ,however1 ,i have made a valuable discovery1 and that is that it is better under some circumstances not to ask for the privilege1 but to resort to strategy4 ,i request one or more of our party to engage the proposed subject in conversation1 while ,i retire to a suitable distance with my camera1 focus the group1 then fire away4 ,this plan succeeds admirably1 and my collection increases steadily and satisfactorily4 ,illustration3 ,one old woman is fascinated with the camera4 7,see page #aga47 ,however1 upon better acquaintance with the townspeople and the repeated assurances of our skipper1 who speaks some ,english1 that our purpose is an innocent one1 we are allowed to photograph the whole town freely1 and all its valuable possessions4 ,occasionally a guilder slipped quietly into the hand of one of the older women opens a new vein of good fortune1 for they insist that the gentleman shall be allowed to take the picture2 whether it be an old-fashioned interior with its quaint belongings1 or a pretty maid too shy to hold her head up properly4 ,one old woman is so fascinated with the camera that she asks me to take picture after picture of her homely wrinkled countenance4 ,at first ,i do so to her extreme delight1 but finally ,i only pretend to take her picture1 and the last bewildering poses and bewitching smiles are all wasted upon an unimpressionable plate4 ,the ,ancient ,town of ,monnikendam4 ,illustration3 ,we walk along the narrow streets4 7,see page #agg47 ,the ,ancient ,town of ,monnikendam4 ,marken ,homes--,beds in the ,wall--,family ,heirlooms--,an ,ancient ,clock--,precious ,treasures--,quaint ,customs--,betrothed ,couples--,the ,hotel--,its ,interior--,a ,lack of ,patrons--,costumes of a ,by-gone ,age--,farewell to ,marken--,remote ,districts--,monnikendam--,ancient ,houses--,hotel de ,posthoorn--,the ,postman of the ,past--,a ,difficult ,stairway--,we ,stroll about the ,town--,our ,retinue--,in ,front of the ,hotel--,such ,curious ,children--,supper--,we ,visit the ,shops--,pantomime--,a ,novel ,experience--,they ,cannot ,understand--,no ,candles--,we ,attract a ,crowd--,the ,clothing ,store--,a ,marken ,suit--,too ,high--,bargaining--,a ,stranger to the ,rescue4 ,we walk along the narrow streets1 some of which are paved with little footways1 and now and then visit one of the whitewashed frame houses with their red tiled roofs4 ,these houses are built after one pattern1 and resemble each other so closely in their crude architecture1 that a stranger might easily make a mistake1 and enter the wrong door1 without having previously taken anything stronger than a glass of water4 ,the interior consists of four small rooms1 which are kept scrupulously clean and orderly4 ,one of these is used as a living-room1 and one as dining-room and kitchen4 ,the beds of the family are simply close1 dark recesses in the wall1 in which there are bunks or shelves1 and on these the mattresses and bed clothing are placed1 the occupants mounting by means of wooden steps to this ill-ventilated and most uninviting resting-place4 ,we shudder as we glance into these dismal closets1 and feel a touch of nightmare at the thought of sleeping in one of them4 ,in every house there seems to be reserved a special apartment1 as a storage-place for the family heirlooms1 and here are preserved articles which have been handed down from generation to generation for centuries4 ,dolls of various primitive shapes1 broken and torn1 with black1 dusty clothing2 clocks long since arrested in their career by age or accident2 chairs of rude manufacture1 with perhaps a broken leg or back2 watches and jewelry of ancient design2 odd furniture and pieces of china1 besides other relics which would be useful only in an exhibition of the antique4 ,all these things are sacred in the eyes of their owners1 who would as soon think of parting with one of their children as of allowing one of these treasures to pass out of the family4 ,at one of the houses ,i see stored among the heirlooms a clock1 which the owner informs me has been in the family for two hundred and fifty years4 ,i do not doubt the assertion1 for it looks as though the dust of a thousand years has silently but steadily accumulated upon its venerable face4 ,i am about with my handkerchief to brush off some of this precious dust1 in order to see the wood and brass in their peculiar coloring and design1 but am quietly stopped by the hand of my host4 ,there is a noticeable rivalry between the different families in regard to these treasures which are placed carefully away1 as if too sacred for the light of day1 and are shown to the visitor much as the guide employed in the mint allows one to touch a piece of gold or silver in the early process of coinage4 ,each family tries to outdo the others in its collection1 and in the ancient appearance of the hoard4 ,it is amusing to watch their faces1 when exhibiting the wonders3 they seem very uneasy if the stranger offers to touch one of the pieces1 as though in terror lest it should thus lose some of those precious particles which enhance its value4 ,at another house ,i am allowed1 as a great favor1 to examine one of the dolls1 and really the anxiety shown until the owner has placed it once more in its place in his collection is ludicrous4 ,the most delicate human being1 or a piece of frail egg-shell china could not be more tenderly handled4 ,these people are quite as quaint in appearance as in their customs4 ,the old-time costume of the island is worn as in other parts of ,holland1 but here there is an intensity of ancientness1 if ,i may use the expression1 which must be seen in order to be fully appreciated4 ,they really seem the remnants of a dead era1 and in all their ways display a want of experience of the outside world1 a lack of that perception which the men and women of to-day seem to inhale with the very atmosphere1 which is truly astonishing4 ,the marriage and betrothal customs are especially peculiar4 ,we learn that an engaged couple cannot wed until five years have elapsed since the announcement of the betrothal2 and should a death occur in either family in the meantime1 it is considered such an ill omen that the engagement is broken off altogether3 at the end of a year1 however1 a new engagement may be entered into1 and after a second long period of waiting the wedding is consummated4 ,illustration3 ,sheep1 grazing upon the green pasture lands1 form a homelike scene4 7,see page #ahe47 ,there are many rigid rules of etiquette connected with these engagements2 for instance3 should the young lover1 upon each meeting1 neglect to impress a kiss upon the cheek of every member of the family of his fiancee1 the contract is annulled4 ,one can readily believe almost any statement regarding these strange people who seem like a peculiar race stranded upon a desert island4 ,still from ocular demonstration1 we feel very certain that notwithstanding these stringent rules1 there is no lack of weddings among the young people1 for there is an overwhelming number of children upon the island4 ,marken boasts of a hotel1 and the owner and landlord tells us as he stands proudly upon its stoop1 that this bold enterprise issued from his fertile brain1 and that he is looking for a rich return for his venture4 ,i respond with as much enthusiasm as ,i can gather upon this occasion1 but fear he would receive but cold comfort from the true state of my mind on the subject4 ,the building consists of six rooms which he pronounces quite modern4 ,on the lower floor are a kitchen1 ten feet by ten1 and a dining-room1 twelve by fourteen1 which also serves as a barroom1 sitting-room and smoking den1 all rolled into one4 ,here the guests are supposed to reach the acme of ease and comfort4 ,a bare wooden table and six chairs comprise the furniture of the room1 and there is nothing else visible save the snowy muslin curtains which hang at the windows4 ,upstairs are three bedrooms1 scantily furnished2 here too the windows are curtained4 ,the freshness of these rooms and their surroundings gives us the impression that they have never been occupied since the erection of the hotel a year ago1 by any one of greater importance than the myriads of flies and mosquitoes which cling in lazy groups to the walls and ceilings4 ,my sympathy goes out to these ignorant creatures who do not seem to have strength enough to get away1 and seek their nourishment in other quarters4 ,we find tolerably comfortable accommodations here1 and view things very philosophically on account of the curious and interesting life by which we are surrounded4 ,the men and women in their odd costumes are rare pictures4 ,the clothing worn here is of a style worn hundreds of years ago1 and there is no consciousness on the part of its wearers that there is anything unusual in its appearance4 ,where ignorance is bliss1 'tis folly to be wise1 and it is more than probable that they will continue to wear this antediluvian garb for centuries to come4 ,much of the washing is done in the little canal which flows through the town1 and this is easily accomplished1 as linen is not worn to any great extent1 as in other places1 and the coarse homespun garments are cleansed by a very simple process4 ,sheep1 grazing upon many of the green pasture lands1 form a homelike1 peaceful scene which is very attractive4 ,the air is fresh1 yet balmy1 imparting tone and vigor to the sturdy natives4 ,at last we bid adieu to this stationary spot upon the earth's surface1 wondering if an earthquake or any other startling event will ever happen here to rouse it from its lethargy1 and compel it to take its place in the march of the ages4 ,if not1 it will remain as of old1 a boon to the artist1 an infinite source from which he may draw quaint1 ideal and most original studies of a people and an era whose counterpart has long since vanished from our everyday world4 ,in our travels in the northern portion of ,holland1 and away from the larger cities1 as ,amsterdam and ,rotterdam1 which are more visited by tourists1 we find that our letters of credit extend over an astonishing space of time1 for a little money goes a long way among these people4 ,the regions seem to be too remote for the regular tourist1 and as there is no great influx of capital from that source1 there is no inducement for the people to change their simple and primitive mode of living1 hence honesty1 frugality and contentment reign here1 and the visitor may enjoy to its full extent1 the beautiful country and the pure1 innocent life of its inhabitants4 ,the quaint and simple town of ,monnikendam lies some fifteen or sixteen miles north of ,amsterdam1 and here is a rich and rare scene of ancient associations4 ,eyes1 ears and brain are almost bewildered by the exquisite strangeness of our surroundings4 ,here are houses with the date of their birth inscribed over the doorways1 and the odd designs of bygone centuries still clinging to their walls4 ,these ancient dates and the rich beauty of these aged tenements impress us with a feeling of awe1 and we walk softly as we pass the hallowed ground upon which so many lives have risen1 passed their little day1 then vanished to make place for the next players4 ,of the two hotels which the town supports1 we choose the oldest1 the ,hotel de ,posthoorn1 which derives its name from the fact that at an early date the building was used as a post office station4 ,in those days the postman carried a horn1 which he blew when approaching a station1 as a notice to the townfolk to have their mail ready for collection1 that he might not be detained1 as his route was long and wearisome4 ,illustration3 ,hotel de ,posthoorn4 7,see page #ahf47 ,we are conducted to the second floor of the hotel by a steep and narrow stairway1 which requires much ingenuity in the ascent1 as the steps are constructed at such a peculiar angle that it is difficult to balance one's self upon them4 ,we reach the top as gracefully as possible under the circumstances1 and find two pleasant communicating rooms overlooking the main street4 ,rooms1 beds and all our surroundings are wonderfully clean1 and filled with an atmosphere of the past1 which is very charming4 ,the rates charged here are seven dollars a week for each person1 and this includes meals and attendance3 the latter simply a pleasant fiction1 with no meaning whatever4 ,the sheets upon our beds are of homespun linen of good quality1 but emitting such an odor of antiquity1 that there is no doubt whatever in our minds that they are heirlooms of many generations1 and we wish that this genuine1 ancient and unpleasant smell could be scattered abroad1 or adulterated in some way1 even to the extent of a pair of modern sheets1 for concentrated age is more attractive in sights than in odors4 ,our hotel bears the date #afig upon a fancifully carved tablet above the middle window1 but the ,stadhuis ,tower is still older1 dating back to #aeib4 ,the proprietor1 his wife and daughter are pleasant1 hospitable people1 who make our stay with them1 both comfortable and enjoyable4 ,before supper we stroll about the town1 which consists of a main or central avenue1 with small narrow streets diverging from it4 ,as we walk along1 a little crowd1 composed chiefly of children1 follows us closely4 ,these young people stare at us1 and laugh as though we are a freshly imported menagerie4 ,on our return1 we sit in front of the hotel where some chairs and small tables are placed for the convenience of those who wish to rest and sip their glass of beer or genuine ,holland gin in the open4 ,the favorite beverages in ,holland are beer1 porter and gin1 the latter of an excellent quality1 and genuinely old4 ,we are soon surrounded by a group of children1 who watch our motions and by words and gestures freely express their wonder and amusement at the odd-looking stranger people4 ,they seem greatly surprised that we do not understand their language3 not even such simple phrases as ,goeden avond1 7,good-evening71 or ,ja1 7,yes71 and ,nee1 7,no74 ,when ,i make them understand that in ,english yes and no are the same as their ja and nee1 they laugh immoderately1 and repeat in their own broad accents1 yes and no1 as if greatly amused4 ,after supper1 which consists of cold fish1 coffee1 cheese1 boiled potatoes and tea with a private nip of the real ancient ,holland gin1 we walk out again without a guide1 to do some shopping4 ,we have a funny experience1 as we are compelled to resort to pantomime in making the various purchases4 ,entering a general store in search of candles1 we at first ask for them in ,english3 the good-natured shopwoman smiles and shakes her head4 ,i repeat the word candles1 at the same time going through the motion of striking a match on the counter1 and holding it up to the end of my forefinger4 ,this strange proceeding attracts the attention of a young man and woman1 who draw near the counter1 followed by several other members of the family1 but ,i cannot make them comprehend4 ,we then try the ,french language1 but this also proves a failure1 so we are obliged to depart without our candles1 although ,i am confident they have them somewhere in the store4 ,scene after scene of this kind is gone through with in the different shops1 and now our curious actions have attracted a large crowd of people who follow close at our heels1 wondering what we will do next1 and thinking1 no doubt1 that we are a very good kind of free show4 ,such strange beings rarely visit their isolated town1 and they are certainly enjoying their opportunity to its full extent4 ,when we stop to look into a shop-window1 they stop too1 and follow our example like very shadows4 ,the expression of wonder and merriment depicted on the countenances of both young and old is a fine study for an artist4 ,as we saunter leisurely along1 we espy a clothing store1 which we enter1 and find half-a-dozen men lounging about with long clay pipes in their mouths1 and their hands in the pockets of their baggy trousers4 ,their faces wear a peaceful1 contented expression1 which changes to a look of surprise as we approach them1 and they scan our attire1 as something wholly different from anything to which they are accustomed4 ,the gaping throng outside besieges the doorway4 ,as the men still gaze curiously at us1 ,i draw near the one who appears to be the proprietor of the establishment1 and in pantomime1 aided by ,english1 interspersed with a little ,french1 ask for a ,marken suit of clothes4 ,the man laughs and looks perplexed2 his companions also shake their heads in token that they do not understand4 ,with serious countenances and widely-opened eyes1 they follow the motions of my lips and hands4 ,uttering slowly the words3 ,marken suit1 ,i point to my own trousers1 coat and vest4 ,their eyes follow my hands1 first to my trousers1 then to my coat and vest4 ,it is a difficult position2 but what a treat to watch their puzzled countenances1 now smiling1 now with a look of actual pain in their efforts to understand4 ,illustration3 ,de ,hooflstraat1 ,monnikendam4 7,see page #aij47 ,at last my perseverance and their attention are rewarded1 and the storekeeper takes from a shelf a dusty bundle1 and carefully unfolds it4 ,within the bundle is a ,marken suit3 yes1 the very kind ,i wish to possess1 an entire woman's dress4 ,i am anxious to purchase it at any reasonable figure4 ,the garment is passed to us for inspection4 ,we nod in indication that it is just what we desire4 ,now for the tug of war2 the price4 ,combien8 ,combien8 ,finally thirty guilders is named as the price set upon the dress4 ,we motion1 ,too high1 and ,i point to the ceiling4 ,the six weary men all look up in the direction of my finger3 they smile1 and think it is a good joke1 and look at me as though saying3 ,what next8 ,they laugh heartily at my vain endeavors4 ,alas6 ,how can ,i make them understand8 ,fifteen guilders1 ,i say4 ,the proprietor seems to understand4 ,nee4 ,nee4 ,ik kan het niet doen4 7,no4 ,no4 ,i cannot do it47 ,after long deliberation1 still holding the cherished suit in his hands1 he turns to his companions1 and seems to ask their opinion4 ,several shake their heads and utter3 ,nee4 ,nee1 others say3 ,ja4 ,ja4 ,one suggests twenty-five guilders as the price2 another twenty guilders4 ,the bargaining goes on without drawing any nearer to a conclusion1 when to our relief a gentleman enters the shop who understands the language of these people4 ,he has learned from the outsiders that some ,americans are in the store trying to buy a suit of clothes4 ,through the kindness of this stranger1 matters are speedily adjusted1 and the sale effected1 as he speaks both ,dutch and ,english fluently4 ,we purchase the complete suit for fifteen guilders1 or about six dollars in the currency of the ,united ,states4 ,these suits are rarely made for sale1 but only when needed for immediate use4 ,the natives of the island make them for personal wear1 or for each other4 ,every man and woman generally owns two suits3 one to wear every day1 and one for ,sundays4 ,as we move toward the door to take our departure1 after spending three-quarters of an hour over this transaction1 we perceive that the throng around the door has increased in numbers4 ,what an assemblage6 ,and we are the curiosities4 ,i count them1 and find there are thirty men1 women and children1 all full of excitement at the presence of strangers in ,monnikendam4 ,one young girl is so shy and timid1 that as we advance toward her on our way out1 she starts and runs hurriedly away1 and gazes at us from a distance of some twenty feet1 as though we are dangerous animals4 ,we make several other purchases2 partly because we desire the articles1 but chiefly on account of our enjoyment of this novel mode of shopping4 ,illustration3 ,there is a young man whose walk is all his own4 7,see page #baa47 ,old ,customs and ,quaint ,pictures4 ,illustration3 ,the streets and sidewalks are kept scrupulously clean4 7,see page #baa47 ,old ,customs and ,quaint ,pictures4 ,segars and ,tobacco--,row ,boats--,goeden ,morgan--,the ,zuyder ,zee--,by ,candle ,light--,total ,darkness--,the ,town by ,night--,women and ,girls--,shoes and ,stockings--,the ,shuffling ,man--,streets and ,sidewalks--,the ,town ,crier--,the ,daily ,news--,a ,message to the ,people--,draught ,dogs--,milkmaids--,the ,barber ,shop--,drug ,stores--,horretje--,a ,street ,auction--,selling ,curios--,they ,leave their ,shoes at the ,door--,an ,old ,grist ,mill--,the ,holland ,draught ,girl4 ,in ,holland1 segars and tobacco of very good quality are sold at low prices3 it is not uncommon to buy two segars for one cent 7,united ,states currency7 and should you be detected smoking an article costing more than a penny1 you are immediately stamped as a wealthy and extravagant personage4 ,this reputation is easily acquired in a town of such thrifty habits as ,monnikendam1 and here my fondness for a good smoke lays me open to both charges4 ,a row boat may be hired for twenty cents a day1 if you do your own rowing2 with a man to row1 the charge is forty cents4 ,we find it convenient to hire a man1 who also serves as guide and interpreter1 and who rows us to many lovely nooks and out-of-the-way spots1 which we would otherwise miss seeing4 ,the inhabitants of the town are kind and hospitable1 and we are charmed with their good1 honest countenances4 ,we are always greeted with a pleasant ,goeden morgen1 or ,goeden avond1 or it may be3 ,hoe staat het leven8 7,how are you871 when we pass them on the street4 ,the country about here is principally farm land1 with rich and abundant pasturage4 ,a short distance from us is the placid ,zuyder ,zee1 with its shining waters stretching eastward for miles4 ,from its picturesque banks may be seen boats of every size and kind1 from the tiniest row boat to craft of many tons' burden1 and it is interesting to observe from this point the busy life upon the water1 as produce1 farm implements and merchandise are carried to and fro4 ,illustration3 ,the whole place is a succession of quaint and picturesque houses4 7,see page #baf47 ,as ,i sit writing in my room1 by the light of a homemade candle1 ,i now and then pause in my occupation to look around with an ever increasing wonder1 at the dark old furniture over which the light casts a ghostly gleam4 ,the spirit of the past seems lurking in the corners1 with their long forgotten history1 and around yonder ancient cupboard and brass trimmed chest of drawers4 ,i can almost feel upon my shoulder the touch of the hand which has carried this quaint old candlestick in those olden days1 and in imagination1 hear the rustle of her gown as she stands behind me waiting for her own4 ,it is ten o'clock1 and ,i walk to the window and draw aside the curtain1 curious to see the life that is abroad in the town at this hour4 ,to my astonishment there are no signs of life of any kind4 ,the town lies in total darkness4 ,there is not a glimmer of light anywhere1 save the dim glow from a lantern dangling carelessly by the side of a pedestrian who moves slowly and quietly along the sidewalk4 ,there is no other evidence of any living thing4 ,even the frogs and crickets1 which enliven a night scene at home1 are not heard here4 ,dead silence prevails1 while ,night1 sable goddess1 from her ebon throne1 ,in rayless majesty now stretches forth ,her leaden sceptre o'er a slumbering world4 ,even the stars are slumbering1 or their sparkle has been engulfed by this all-devouring darkness4 ,the light of my candle seems out of harmony with the peaceful repose around me3 with a half-guilty feeling ,i extinguish it1 and wrapping myself in sheets of ,holland linen1 am soon slumbering with the rest of the world4 ,in the morning1 when seated at the breakfast table1 my first question to our host is as to the reason for such all-pervading darkness1 and the absence of the townspeople from the streets at night4 ,he tells me that it is so rare for any one to be abroad after nine o'clock in the evening1 that the street lamps1 of which there are but few1 are never lighted4 ,at ten o'clock every one is supposed to be at home and in bed4 ,the women and girls of this and the neighboring towns are thrifty and industrious4 ,when resting after their daily labors1 whether at noon or in the evening1 they will invariably take from their deep side-pockets a ball of thread or yarn1 and with the short knitting needle1 or the long ones of steel1 continue their work on an unfinished stocking1 cap or other article of wearing apparel4 ,the prevailing foot-covering for men1 women and children is a heavy woolen stocking2 this fits the foot snugly1 and protects it from the hardness of the clumsy wooden shoe or clog as it is called4 ,these shoes are carved from a single block of wood3 when they are worn and shabby they are painted black1 and a strap is placed across the instep4 ,they are of all sizes1 but only one style or pattern4 ,in the larger cities1 however1 such as ,rotterdam1 one can obtain from the manufacturers a painted wooden shoe1 with buttons and stitches carved upon it as ornaments4 ,but this variation is found only in men's shoes4 ,in ,holland the ordinary ,american slipper is frequently worn by both men and women4 ,the clatter of the wooden shoes is at first an unpleasant sound1 especially when several persons are walking together1 but the ear soon becomes accustomed to it1 as to all other odd noises4 ,there is a young man in this place1 who walks with a peculiar shuffle1 all his own4 ,he is so strange looking altogether that ,i snap my camera on him one day as he innocently passes by me4 ,the peculiar sound of his walk has taught me to know that he is coming long before his figure is visible4 ,i sometimes feel like telling him in the words of ,byron1 that ,he has no singing education1 ,an ignorant1 noteless1 timeless1 tuneless fellow4 ,the streets and sidewalks are kept scrupulously clean1 as the women of each household scrub not only their sidewalks1 but half-way across the street in front of their dwellings4 ,one may thus imagine what a charming and inviting place this is for the pedestrian4 ,in this peaceful town where the golden rule is not simply a precept to frame and hang upon the wall1 it is not necessary to employ officials with such high sounding but meaningless titles as ,street ,commissioner1 ,director of the ,highways1 etc41 etc4 ,no1 here each individual possesses sufficient honor and self-respect to accomplish his own share of municipal work1 to the benefit and comfort of the whole community4 ,there is one very ancient custom still existing here which interests and entertains us greatly4 ,this is the old fashion of employing a town crier1 who after beating a brass disk which is suspended by a cord from his shoulder1 calls out in a loud1 clear voice1 the news of the day1 events in foreign lands1 transfers of property1 sales and auctions which have already taken place or are to occur in the near future1 lost and found articles and the like4 ,for instance3 he walks a distance of a block or two1 then stops in the middle of the street1 beats the brass disk vigorously with a small striker1 and casting his head heavenward1 utters the phrases which have been prepared and given to him in stereotyped tones4 ,thus the town receives its news1 and the crier keeps those who never stir from their homes as well as the business men of the city informed of the most prominent events of their own and other countries4 ,what better method could be employed in the absence of newspapers8 ,the community is kept in touch with the outside world and with its own members by means of this odd and ancient custom4 ,illustration3 ,a street auction4 7,see page #bbj47 ,i have the pleasure of a personal association with the crier4 ,our party is so much annoyed by the continual staring of the people1 who seem unable to become accustomed to our appearance in the town1 and who follow us constantly day and evening when we walk upon the streets1 that ,i decide to try some means to stop it4 ,the proprietor of the hotel1 at my request1 adds another sentence to the daily bulletin2 it runs as follows3 ,the three ,americans now stopping at the ,posthoorn ,hotel must not be annoyed by the good people of this town4 ,it is not good manners to stare at them and follow them1 and it is unpleasant to these strangers4 ,the day following my request1 ,i listen anxiously for the voice of the crier1 and his appearance in our neighborhood4 ,here he comes2 and the message is rolled forth in sonorous tones4 ,i seek the landlord and ask him if the notice is to be circulated throughout the town2 and he replies in the affirmative4 ,in justice to the inhabitants1 ,i must state that they heed the request1 and hereafter go on their way without undue excitement or comment when we appear among them2 much to our own comfort and enjoyment4 ,few horses are seen upon these streets3 wagons are drawn by two1 three1 or four huge draught dogs1 trained for this purpose4 ,men are also frequently harnessed to wagons1 as well as women1 and sometimes a woman and dog will appear together drawing a load of merchandise4 ,milk is delivered by buxom young girls who carry on their shoulders a strong wooden yoke3 from the ends of this the milk pails are suspended by ropes4 ,vegetables and other provisions are delivered in the same manner4 ,the milkmaid passes from door to door1 rapping on each with the ancient brass knocker1 and serving her customer with the milk as it is served with us4 ,the whole place is a succession of quaint and picturesque houses4 ,the shapes are various1 and the heavy red-tiled roofs and many gables have a charming effect as they stand in rows on either side of the street4 ,each house seems to possess an individual style of its own1 and many are so old that they lean quite out of the perpendicular4 ,illustration3 ,at the farthest end of the street stands an old windmill4 7,see page #bbc47 ,while travelling in ,holland one is constantly confronted with a sign in the form of a wooden arm stretched from a doorway1 with a brass disk suspended from it containing the words3 ,hier scheert en snyd men het haar1 which signifies that here one can be shaved and have his hair cut3 in other words1 it is the sign of a barber1 who in ,america designates his calling by the gayly-colored pole4 ,the brass disks in front of these places are polished to a high state of brilliancy1 and being suspended so that they swing loosely in the breeze1 they cast dazzling reflections in all directions which cannot fail to attract the attention of the passer-by4 ,another advertisement which differs greatly from those in our country is that of the drug store4 ,while with us huge glass vases and globes of different colors are displayed in the window of the apothecary1 in ,holland a wooden head of a man in great agony1 with protruding tongue1 indicates that here the sufferer can find relief and medicine for all his aches and pains4 ,this head is conspicuously placed over the entrance to the drug store4 ,another odd custom in this strange country is that of placing a large screen called a ,horetje in the front windows of private houses1 or on the first floors4 ,the screen is sometimes shaped like a fan1 sometimes it is heart-shaped or oval1 and is intended to protect the person seated at the door or window from the idle gaze of the pedestrian4 ,indeed it often hides a charming picture of maiden grace and modesty4 ,one day as ,i am sitting at the door of the hotel attempting to sketch some of the picturesque houses in the neighborhood1 with many wondering eyes directed toward my canvas1 ,i notice a crowd of people beginning to gather a short distance off4 ,i do not see the centre of attraction1 but seizing my camera1 which is my constant companion1 together with pencils and brushes1 which are as close friends as ,robinson ,crusoe and his man ,friday1 ,i hasten to the scene of action1 feeling that probably something is going to happen which will add a new page to my experience4 ,it is true3 something interesting is about to take place2 and that is a street auction1 a common occurrence in this town4 ,the auctioneer1 perched above the heads of his audience upon an old wooden box1 is calling out his sales in ,dutch4 ,the articles which he is about to dispose of to the highest bidders are dress goods1 linen and wearing apparel4 ,much persuasion is necessary before a sale is effected1 as the strong desire of the customers to obtain bargains is met by an equally strong determination on the part of the auctioneer to sell his stock at good prices4 ,a funny sort of a seesaw is the result1 which is the source of much merriment among the spectators4 ,i join in some of these outbursts from pure sympathy1 as most of the time ,i do not understand either the jokes or allusions4 ,a lively business is frequently carried on at these auctions2 but whether the purchaser really obtains more for his money than by the ordinary method of buying ,i cannot ascertain4 ,i presume they think they have some advantage1 or they would not flock to the sales in such numbers4 ,illustration3 ,a beautifully shaded walk just outside the town4 7,see page #bbd47 ,an active branch of business here is the sale of curios1 antique silverware1 china1 gold1 jewels1 and bric-a-brac2 in fact ancient articles of every description4 ,as we walk down the ,main street1 admiring the clean highway and lovely old houses on either side of us1 we observe many pairs of wooden shoes lying in front of the different residences near the doorways1 and upon inquiry learn that when one person goes to call upon another1 he leaves his heavy wooden shoes outside the door1 and enters in his stocking feet4 ,at the farthest end of the street stands an old windmill with its huge arms moving slowly and regularly in harmony with the gentle breeze which blows across the ,zuyder ,zee4 ,as we draw nearer1 we see that it is an ancient grist mill1 and here is the owner1 who invites us in to view the interior1 and with whom we have a pleasant chat in our own colloquial style1 adopted since our arrival in this city4 ,dozens of windmills can be seen from this point1 and1 as ,i have already said1 they are used for many different purposes4 ,the foundation story is the home of the family1 and in a number of these you will find quaint1 delightful pictures of old ,dutch interiors1 with their odd chairs and dressers1 ancient clocks and brass bound chests1 old-fashioned china1 and tiled fireplaces4 ,there is a beautifully shaded walk just outside the town1 encircling the whole city4 ,large trees here protect ,monnikendam from the heavy wind and rain storms which come from the ,zuyder ,zee1 when old ,neptune rises in one of his dreadful tantrums4 ,we enjoy this lovely walk1 but what do we not enjoy in this town which surely has bound us by some magic spell2 for the longer we stay here1 the more loath we are to leave its borders4 ,one day we take a boat and direct our course along one of the canals1 on which there is considerable traffic4 ,here we behold the pitiable sight of two young girls1 harnessed like mules1 and attached to a lead rope1 pulling inch by inch1 and foot by foot1 a large canal-boat filled with merchandise4 ,i can imagine no harder work than this1 for the poor creatures are exposed to the intense heat of the sun1 with no protection against its direct rays1 and they have a long slow journey before them1 ere the heavily-laden boat making its progress foot by foot shall reach its destination4 ,the toil of the factory girl in ,america is play when compared with that of the draught girl in ,holland4 ,illustration3 ,land and water4 7,see page #bbd47 ,a ,dutch ,cheese-making ,district4 ,illustration3 ,a good road for the bicycle4 7,see page #bci47 ,a ,dutch ,cheese-making ,district4 ,a ,cheese-making ,country--,edam ,cheese--,a ,picturesque ,inn--,an ,interesting ,interior--,a ,thrifty ,farmer--,at ,sunrise--,in the ,cow ,stable--,the ,pretty ,maid--,stall and ,parlor--,the ,cheese ,room--,the ,process of ,making ,cheese--,i ,have ,listened and ,listened--,a ,trip to ,volendam--,a ,fine ,country ,road--,a ,charming ,day--,muzzled ,dogs--,the ,only ,street--,a ,multitude of ,children--,gay ,decorations--,a ,united ,people--,as a ,hen and ,her ,brood--,their ,wealth is ,health--,in ,sunday ,dress--,stalwart ,men and ,sturdy ,women--,a ,higher ,type--,i have enough--,fishermen--,the ,anchorage--,a ,volendam ,suit4 ,to-day we take the train for ,edam1 of world-wide fame as a cheese-making centre4 ,this town1 situated about five miles north of ,monnikendam1 abounds in beautiful old trees which protect it from the heat of the sun1 and render it very attractive4 ,all of these towns seem to possess individual interest1 and the traveller is constantly surprised in this region by new and unexpected scenes3 but the imprint of truth and honesty upon the faces of the dwellers in every town1 village and settlement in ,holland is observed as the common bond of union1 and leads us to understand the happiness and prosperity for which this region is justly celebrated4 ,it is hardly necessary to say that many cheese factories are scattered throughout this section of the country4 ,at one of these factories1 located on the bank of the canal1 we see a large barge being loaded with five thousand of the delicious ,edam cheeses1 intended for foreign markets4 ,we stop for rest and refreshment at one of the many inns on the way4 ,this house is a fine subject for an artist4 ,the room in which our meal is served is in itself a masterpiece4 ,the floor1 composed of large stone flags1 is spotlessly clean1 and the walls are covered with odd pieces of china1 evidently associated with family history3 the woodwork is as white as soap and sand can make it1 and the windows are as clear as crystal4 ,in a corner stands the old ,dutch clock1 with the moon1 now nearly full1 represented above its time-worn face1 and on one side is the dark dresser1 rich in ancient plates1 and other quaint old-fashioned crockery4 ,the table at which we sit is covered with a snowy cloth of homespun linen1 and the blue and white dishes with the stories upon them which have been thus told for unknown ages almost charm us into forgetfulness of our luncheon itself1 until a healthy cheerful country girl appears1 and with deft movements and smiling face places before us the appetizing cheese1 delicious bread1 freshly churned butter1 and new milk as well as buttermilk4 ,for this but a trifling charge is made1 but we feel that a glimpse into this quaint old ,dutch interior1 the sight of these brass-bound chests and claw-footed chairs1 and the picture of the cheerful ,holland maid are worth many times the cost of the meal4 ,we are much entertained by our visit to a thrifty farmer whose home is about a mile from ,monnikendam4 ,this well-to-do personage owns a large dairy farm1 and learning that we are interested in this subject1 invites us to be present at sunrise to witness the process of cheese-making4 ,an early hour finds us on the way1 and in good time a rap on the door of the farmhouse brings us into the presence of a bright middle-aged ,dutch vrow1 who with a cherry ,goeden morgen bids us enter4 ,we are first ushered into the parlor1 which is a room of considerable size1 immaculately clean1 with comfortable chairs and sofas placed in various corners1 and a supply of delft ware and shining brass candlesticks that fill our hearts with longing4 ,in a few moments we are invited to the adjoining room1 which we suppose to be the kitchen or dining-room1 but to our surprise find ourselves in the cow-stable1 a spacious1 well lighted apartment1 about seventy feet long and fifteen feet wide4 ,a row of stalls runs along one side of the room1 and here stand as many of the genuine1 full blooded ,holstein cattle4 ,they are handsome creatures1 looking as sleek and clean as those which take the premiums at the state and county fairs at home4 ,here they stand1 patiently awaiting the appearance of the milkmaid2 not however the milkmaid1 all forlorn of nursery rhyme1 but in truth ,the pretty maid with dress so clean1 ,with shining pail and face serene1 ,who milks the cows with happy smile1 ,and sings her joyous songs the while4 ,the stalls are as sweet1 clean and orderly as is the parlor which we have just left1 and snowy curtains hang above the windows over them1 the only apparent difference between the stable and the parlor being that the cattle stand upon fresh1 fragrant straw1 instead of a clean carpet4 ,from the stable we are conducted to an adjoining building1 which is the cheese factory1 and to the room in which are assembled the farmer1 his wife and two servants4 ,everything is in readiness3 the fresh milk is poured into a huge iron kettle which stands upon the floor1 and which is capable of holding about twenty gallons3 a small quantity of rennet is put into the milk1 and in perhaps twenty minutes a kind of sieve is passed quickly to and fro through the curdled mass4 ,these sieves or curd-knives have handles by which they are held while the blades are drawn from side to side1 cutting the curd into myriads of tiny cubes4 ,then the farmer's wife rolls up her sleeves1 exposing to view a pair of round1 shapely arms which would be the pride of a city belle1 and dips both hands and arms deep in the floating mass4 ,she presses1 and kneads and rolls this thickening body until it assumes the consistency of dough3 the whey is bluish in color1 and as thin as water4 ,this is drained off1 and water is poured over the mass several times1 until the cheese is thoroughly cleansed of all the floating particles4 ,it is now ready to be placed in five pound moulds made of wood3 the moulds are put into a powerful press which shapes the cheese1 and extracts any lurking remnants of water4 ,after about eight hours in the press1 the cheeses are salted and placed on shelves to dry4 ,now for a month it is necessary to turn them every day1 and after that1 every other day for a month4 ,they are also sponged with lukewarm water and dried in the open air1 and the final process is a thin coat of linseed oil4 ,it is a tedious operation2 great care is necessary to keep the chamber in which they are shelved perfectly clean and dry1 and of an even temperature4 ,at last the articles are ready for shipment to all parts of the world4 ,this is an enormous industry3 in ,north ,holland alone1 we are informed that twenty-six million pounds of cheese are produced per annum4 ,the portion of the process witnessed by us occupies about an hour and a half3 these cheeses are worth from the farmer's hands fifty or sixty cents apiece4 ,there is a little boy ten or twelve years of age about here who seems to derive great pleasure from our society1 although he cannot understand one word of ,english4 ,one day1 after sitting quietly for a long time1 while we are conversing together1 he repeats impatiently in his own language3 ,i have listened and listened to your talk1 and ,i cannot understand one word4 ,i do not think you are talking sense at all4 ,alas1 poor child6 ,you are not the only one who has listened and listened1 trying in vain to find a gleam of intelligence in the foreigner's gibberish4 ,ignorance of the language of a nation causes it to appear to one like a vast sealed volume1 which he knows only by the pictures on the title page4 ,i have written at length of the ,island of ,marken1 one of the most noted of the ,dead cities of ,holland1 and now1 let us take a peep at the sister city of ,volendam1 which lies four miles north of ,monnikendam4 ,as we do not wish to visit this place when all the men are off on their fishing expeditions1 we choose for our excursion a clear bright ,sunday1 a day on which the men will surely be at home1 and their sea horses at anchor in the harbor4 ,procuring a large carriage and a powerful horse1 a difficult thing to obtain at short notice1 we direct our driver to jog along slowly that we may enjoy the beauty of the surrounding country4 ,we drive over a fine road1 level and well ballasted2 a good road for the bicycle3 in fact all the roads of ,holland1 city and country1 are kept in perfect condition4 ,it is a charming day1 and the balmy atmosphere and the refreshing breeze which sweeps over the ,zuyder ,zee have a soothing effect upon mind and body4 ,this would be a great country for invalids1 and those who seek rest and change from the demands of fashion and social life4 ,there is no fashion here2 only pure air and lovely peaceful beauty everywhere1 with good wholesome food and kind hearts to extend a cordial welcome to the weary stranger4 ,added to this is the very moderate cost of a sojourn in this delightful region4 ,occasionally we pass a small cart or wagon drawn by dogs1 the driver a young girl who is comfortably seated in the vehicle1 now and then administering to the animals1 by means of a short stick1 reminders not to lag on the way4 ,these dogs are not the ordinary house dog which is seen in our country2 but are powerful and muscular creatures1 as perhaps ,i have already said1 and so cross and savage when roused1 that to secure the safety of the persons near them they are closely muzzled4 ,being ignorant of their peculiar traits1 one day while admiring a couple of fine draught dogs which are resting near a wagon1 ,i approach them too closely2 my enthusiasm is suddenly cooled as one of them springs viciously at me1 striking me heavily on the chest1 and he certainly would have chipped a good sized piece of flesh from my body had his muzzle not prevented this catastrophe4 ,hereafter ,i keep a distance of many feet between me and these animals1 and others of their species4 ,illustration3 ,this strange looking highway runs lengthwise through the town4 7,see page #bdc47 ,after a lovely drive of an hour1 we arrive at the old town which is as wonderful and interesting as its sister city4 ,it too is built upon the banks of the ,zuyder ,zee4 ,we stand upon the only street in the place1 which in appearance resembles the back bone of a whale1 with small brick houses on either side4 ,this strange looking highway runs lengthwise through the town4 ,the street is narrow3 horses and dogs are never seen upon it1 but there are hundreds of children1 who gather in great throngs around our horse1 wondering at the strange animal1 and declaring him to be a huge dog1 for many of them have never seen a horse before4 ,our appearance is also a great event to them1 and the visit creates as much excitement on one side as the other4 ,it is a red letter day for both the townspeople and ourselves4 ,the houses are roofed with red tiles1 which exhibit many different shapes and styles1 and we perceive numerous flags floating from the windows1 and decorations of gay bunting4 ,upon asking the reason of this festive appearance in the isolated and usually quiet city1 we are informed that they are in honor of a wedding which is to take place within a few days4 ,a wedding in this town is an occasion of great rejoicing1 and every household enters into the spirit of the entertainment with enthusiasm1 as the whole community resembles one large family1 and from the least to the greatest1 they are all well known to each other4 ,the affairs of one are the affairs of all1 hence a single marriage becomes the festive occasion of the entire population4 ,this is not strange when one recollects that the people have no other means of entertainment1 such as theatres1 concert halls or libraries1 whist or euchre parties4 ,they have nothing save the individual happenings in the domestic lives of the different families4 ,a woman whose children are sitting quietly upon the curb stone near us1 looks hurriedly around the door of her house1 and seeing the commotion which our arrival excites1 calls anxiously for her kids to come to her protecting arms1 in mortal fear lest one of her brood should be carried off by these strange and unexpected visitors4 ,as ,i look around1 and behold the robust and muscular physiques of both men and women1 ,i think any one would be daring indeed who would attempt to carry off a child or any other possession from these people in opposition to their wills4 ,illustration3 ,the houses are roofed with red tiles4 7,see page #bdc47 ,the women and children here are richly endowed with the blessings of health and strength4 ,the whole population of thirteen hundred people employ but one doctor1 who has time to grow rusty in his profession1 so few are the demands upon his skill4 ,i suggest to him on the occasion of a meeting1 that he adopt the ,chinese plan of remuneration1 that is that the people pay him an annuity as long as they are well1 and that when they are sick1 they be entitled to his services gratis4 ,the natives of ,holland are not inclined to excesses of any kind1 and they thus enjoy the full benefit of naturally sound constitutions1 and are able to transmit to their children perfect1 unimpaired health4 ,as we stroll along this backbone of a street without name or pretensions1 we stop at many of the doorways to talk with the residents1 and soon become impressed with the hospitality of the people1 who are arrayed in all the glory of their ,sunday finery1 and appear at the fronts of their homes happy in the consciousness that they as well as all their surroundings are in apple pie order4 ,we are as much interested in them as they are in us1 and that is saying a great deal4 ,the great1 stalwart fellows with their broad shoulders and rugged faces are indeed true types of all that is brave and manly4 ,a loose shirt and baggy trousers1 with a small cloth cap is the ordinary costume of the men1 many of whom wear wooden shoes2 leather slippers are also worn4 ,the women are equally brave and strong in appearance1 and as large in proportion as the men4 ,their sturdy forms and healthy faces are rare models for the artist's brush4 ,their dress is of homespun linen1 generally dyed blue1 and is composed of several pieces2 sometimes these are of various colors combined in a picturesque and effective arrangement4 ,the head-dress is of lace and is pretty and becoming3 indeed many of our fashionable belles might greatly improve their appearance by adopting the charming coiffure of these pretty and apparently unconscious ,holland girls and women4 ,these people represent a higher type of humanity than the inhabitants of ,marken3 their intelligence and refinement are more marked1 but they have the sunny temperaments and contented dispositions characteristic of the ,hollanders1 and though ignorant of the customs of the outside world1 and limited in their lives to a narrow sphere1 they are a happy and satisfied people4 ,they seem in that happy state of mind1 so rarely possessed1 in which they can say ,i have enough4 ,happiness consists not in possessing much1 but in being content with what we possess4 ,he who wants little always has enough4 ,these men1 like those in the neighboring ,island of ,marken1 obtain their livelihood by fishing4 ,they leave their homes in small boats or yachts every ,monday morning1 and do not return until late ,saturday night1 allowing them but one day in the week1 ,sunday1 to spend in their homes4 ,close by us is the anchorage1 so called from the fact that dozens of fishing boats anchor within its harbor4 ,i suppose that fully a hundred of these yachts are lying there now1 and1 shifting from side to side as the wind stirs the waters of the ,zuyder ,zee1 present the appearance of a city of masts in a hurricane4 ,as we wander about it occurs to me that ,i should like to become the possessor of one of the odd and picturesque suits of clothing worn here2 especially one of the better kind of the men's suits1 for ,i know that this quaint and ancient dress would be interesting to a number of friends far away in dear ,america4 ,filled with the idea1 ,i stop many of the natives1 and through our good and genial friend ,mr4 ,l---- inquire if it is possible to purchase from one of them a suit of clothing1 and suggest that if they have none themselves to sell1 perhaps one of their comrades would part with a suit in exchange for my bright guilders4 ,we talk to a great many men1 but receive the same answer from all3 that is that each possesses but two suits2 a best or ,sunday suit1 and a week-day or fishing suit1 neither of which it is possible to sell for any price that ,i may offer4 ,i ask again if there is not some one else among the men who may be willing to oblige me1 and learn that most of the men and women are in church1 but that if we will wait until the service is over1 we can talk with them1 and may succeed in our quest4 ,volendam ,sights and the ,oldest ,town on the ,rhine4 ,illustration3 ,the delicate lace caps frame smiling faces4 7,see page #bef47 ,volendam ,sights and the ,oldest ,town on the ,rhine4 ,church is out--,the ,promenade--,every man is a ,volume--,an ,old ,suit--,his ,sunday ,clothes--,let him have it--,an ,obedient ,son--,the ,silver ,buttons--,the ,last ,straw--,an ,uncommon ,action--,the ,hotel--,an ,artist's ,resort--,an ,unfinished ,painting--,good-bye--,the ,ancient ,city of ,cologne--,the ,cathedral--,within the ,dom--,a ,wonderful ,collection--,foundation of the ,town--,history--,vicissitudes--,public ,gardens--,eau de ,cologne--,the ,palace of ,bruehl4 ,within a short time we perceive a large number of people slowly advancing in our direction4 ,church is over1 and it is customary after the service for every one to promenade up and down this street4 ,here friends and relatives greet each other1 exchange items of local interest and have their little gossips over family affairs4 ,the sight is one long to be remembered4 ,the round weather-beaten faces of the men1 as they roll along in true sailor fashion1 the merry chattering women and girls in their picturesque costume1 the children running hither and thither1 and the gayly decorated houses that line the long street are worthy the brush of an artist4 ,truly these people seem to practice the ,golden ,rule1 for no one appears to be thinking of himself1 but every one cares for the comfort and happiness of his family1 friends or neighbors4 ,the delicate lace caps of the women frame smiling faces1 and the maidens in their quaint homespun gowns look as though they are a part of a play at one of our theatres4 ,as the congregation draws nearer1 we halt before the foremost group1 and having attracted their attention by our novel appearance1 ask through our friend ,mr4 ,l----1 the oft-repeated question about the suit of ,volendam clothes1 which we are anxious to carry home to show our friends in ,america4 ,in an instant they all shake their heads in the negative1 looking very serious at the idea of such a proposition4 ,their manly and straightforward manner charms me4 ,i look into the open countenances1 in which there is much individuality1 and say to myself3 it is as true here as in the great cities of the world that ,every man is a volume if you know how to read him4 ,there is a story in the heart of each one of these sturdy fishermen1 whether it has seen the light of day or not1 and many a noble deed and heroic action that in another town would receive a medal of honor1 or at least the applause of the public1 passes here as a common incident of everyday life4 ,these people do not live for show3 the only medals which they wear1 and which they transmit to their children are the records of pure1 honest lives which are proudly handed down from one generation to another4 ,illustration3 ,as the congregation draws nearer1 we halt before the foremost group4 7,see page #bef47 ,meanwhile ,i stand before them watching the varying expressions and wondering if there is any prospect of obtaining my desire4 ,at last one man says hesitatingly that he has an old suit at home that he no longer wears1 and if we will accompany him to his house1 a few doors away1 he will show it to us4 ,we turn and follow him1 and a score or more of the people follow us4 ,what must an old suit look like in this thrifty community where the men and women never discard anything until it is utterly hopeless as regards service8 ,a suit which one of these is willing to dispose of must indeed be a peculiar object4 ,i wonder if it has that ancient and fish-like smell1 described by ,shakespeare4 ,the fates forbid6 ,perhaps it is a relic of a beloved father or grandfather1 handed down as a family heirloom4 ,we enter the house1 still surrounded by curious spectators1 and our obliging friend takes from a closet a carefully-wrapped bundle1 which upon being opened discloses a worn and aged suit3 unfortunately its age does not add to its beauty or value as in the cases of old masterpieces in art1 as a painting by ,murillo or ,rembrandt4 ,the clothes are old1 dirty1 and faded1 and only fit for the receptacle of the ragman1 but they do not fail to serve their purpose1 for while this young athlete holds them out1 with an expression of pride and pleasure1 a sudden thought fills me with hope4 ,the suit which this young man wears is of the highest type of the ,volendam fashion1 and is quite new4 ,the flannel blouse with its gay undervest showing at the chest1 and the baggy brown velveteen trousers form an ideal specimen of the costume of these people4 ,i must have this suit4 ,no other will answer my purpose4 ,without preliminaries1 ,i boldly propose to him to sell me the suit he wears1 and put on the old one until he can procure another4 ,his countenance falls1 and with a look of positive fear1 he draws back1 shaking his head and repeating3 ,nee4 ,nee4 ,nee4 ,then he moves farther away1 as though in terror lest ,i then and there strip him of his garments4 ,he cannot sell the suit1 he says1 especially as the wedding festivities of one of his neighbors are so soon to take place4 ,in a corner of the room1 quietly smoking a clay pipe1 sits the old father1 watching without a word the little drama taking place before him4 ,as the boy reiterates his refusal1 the man talks to him in expostulatory tones1 and as we learn1 says3 ,the gentleman from ,america is a good man4 ,let him have the suit3 you shall have another4 ,at this advice the son1 though looking rather sulky1 yields1 and withdrawing to the adjoining room1 exchanges the suit he wears for the old one1 and returns with the desire of my heart rolled up and wrapped in a clean paper4 ,the evidence of good will on the part of the parent1 and the obedience of the son charm me even more than the possession of the coveted garments4 ,the boy is a noble lad4 ,as we are about leaving1 ,i suddenly espy the silver coin buttons which are such an ornament to the dress1 and which are considered a mark of distinction1 when worn by old or young4 ,they are rare and valuable decorations1 being buttons made of coins1 and held together by a link1 as our sleeve-buttons4 ,they are worn in the bands of the trousers and shirts1 serving the purpose of suspenders4 ,the coins are brilliantly polished and present a striking appearance4 ,they are generally heirlooms1 and some of them are of very ancient date4 ,in general they are cherished as treasures beyond price3 these worn by the boy are exceedingly rare1 and are more than a hundred years old1 having belonged to his great-grandfather4 ,the outer and larger coins are three guilder pieces1 the smaller ones one guilder4 ,to ask for these is indeed the last straw1 and when the father requests his son to put them in the bundle with the clothing1 he bursts into tears1 and his hands tremble as he gives them to me4 ,for this final test of obedience ,i thank him heartily1 and bestow upon him a liberal reward for the sacrifice1 together with much praise4 ,as he looks at the guilders with which ,i have filled his hand1 his countenance brightens1 and the rainfall is changed into radiant sunshine4 ,the neighbors look on this scene with surprise1 and many of them declare that this is a very uncommon occurrence in ,volendam1 as they have never known any one heretofore to dispose of family heirlooms to a foreigner4 ,it is unnecessary to say that ,i also value the coins beyond price1 and treasure them for their association1 and the interesting picture which they never fail to bring before me4 ,illustration3 ,every man is a volume if you know how to read him4 7,see page #bef47 ,there is but one hotel in the place1 and thither we resort4 ,it is a small building without pretensions1 containing about ten rooms1 of no great size1 but clean and comfortable4 ,we learn that board and accommodations may be had here for four guilders 7one dollar7 a day4 ,this hotel has entertained artists from all parts of the world4 ,the good-natured landlord will do everything in his power to make his guests comfortable4 ,in the general sitting-room or parlor1 there is abundant evidence that these efforts have been appreciated in the beautiful paintings presented to him by some of the most famous artists of our day4 ,he is a loyal upholder of art and artists4 ,his daughter1 a fresh looking maiden1 is so much pleased when ,i say that ,i too1 am an artist and photographer1 that she insists upon taking me up to the third floor to see the fine view from the windows which overlook the ,zuyder ,zee4 ,she also shows me a room which was fitted up for a lady artist from ,new ,york4 ,here is an unfinished picture upon the easel1 of an old ,volendam woman1 in her fancy cap and bright colored homespun costume4 ,this secluded spot offers many attractions for both brush and camera in interesting studies of figures and landscape1 as well as charming water scenes4 ,we would gladly spend a longer time amid these delightful pictures1 but it is impossible1 so we take our departure amid a hundred good wishes1 and as we drive away1 the inhabitants who have gathered from all parts of the town to see the queer ,americans1 call after us3 ,goeden dag1 and ,tot weerziens1 7,until we meet again74 ,a dozen or more children run by the side of the carriage shouting and laughing for a considerable distance4 ,and so we bid farewell to a hearty and attractive people and their quaint surroundings4 ,let us take a somewhat hasty glance at ,cologne1 the oldest city on the ,rhine1 and one of the largest towns in the ,rhenish ,province of ,prussia4 ,we cannot afford to miss this town1 were it only on account of the great ,cathedral whose lofty towers rise heavenward to a height of five hundred and twelve feet4 ,how one longs to find himself within these sacred walls1 to stand and gaze upon the wondrous arches1 pillars1 and dome1 the stained glass and statues1 the frescoes and carving1 the work of an endless succession of artists and artisans4 ,next to ,st4 ,peter's at ,rome1 this ,cathedral is the largest church in the world4 ,it stands upon the old ,roman camping ground1 and more than six centuries have passed since its foundations were laid4 ,the name of its architect is unknown1 and even the original designs have been forgotten4 ,its interior is four hundred and thirty feet long and one hundred and forty feet broad4 ,the portion appropriated to divine service covers an area of seventy thousand square feet4 ,it is useless to attempt to describe this vast structure whose buttresses1 turrets1 gargoyles1 canopies and tracery are innumerable and bewildering4 ,the ,gothic arches and countless pillars form a grand perspective4 ,there are seven chapels which present a wealth of paintings1 and relics4 ,in the ,chapel of the ,three ,magi is a marvellous casket of crystal1 whose cover is set with precious stones1 which is said to contain the skulls of ,caspar1 ,melchior and ,balthazar1 the three ,wise ,men from the ,east who followed the star to the cradle of the infant ,christ4 ,illustration3 ,goeden dag4 ,tot weerziens4 7,see page #bff47 ,in the great treasury of the ,cathedral are untold treasures4 ,here are silver censers1 paintings set in diamonds1 shrines of silver1 and rare and priceless relics of every description1 besides gold and silver chalices1 fonts1 and other church vessels1 and a collection of magnificent vestments4 ,many are the vicissitudes through which this wonderful structure has passed1 since its commencement in #abdh4 ,at times it seemed abandoned to ruin1 then again the work was taken up and vast sums of money contributed1 and the masterpiece of ,gothic architecture was carried on toward completion1 until once more the money was exhausted4 ,it seems as though the old legend of the architect who sold his soul to the devil in exchange for the plan of the edifice must have some foundation1 for tradition relates that ,satan was finally outwitted by the architect1 and in revenge vowed that the ,cathedral should never be finished1 and the architect's name be forgotten4 ,immense fortunes have been expended upon it by monarchs and others of the faithful4 ,the great southern portal alone cost half a million dollars3 the bells in the south tower1 the largest of which was cast in #ahgd1 from the metal of ,french guns1 weighs twenty-five tons4 ,the combined efforts of twenty-eight ringers are required to set it in motion4 ,the next two in point of size1 cast in #addg and #addh1 weigh respectively eleven and six tons4 ,the magnificent stained glass windows were contributed by famous and royal donors1 such as the ,emperor ,frederick ,,iii41 ,archbishop ,von ,daun1 ,archbishop ,von ,hessen1 ,king ,lewis ,i4 of ,bavaria1 ,emperor ,william ,i41 and many others4 ,a number of these were executed as far back as #aejh4 ,few structures can compete with this in beauty1 grace and elegance of form4 ,how solemn is the atmosphere within these ancient walls6 ,how impressive the picture of this apparently boundless interior6 ,in one of the great pillars is a flight of one hundred steps1 which leads to a gallery extending across the transept1 and still nearly forty steps higher one reaches the gallery which makes the tour of the whole ,cathedral1 and upon this one has a beautiful view of the city of ,cologne1 the ,rhine and the surrounding country4 ,within the church there is a corresponding gallery1 from which the visitor may observe the interior decorations1 and from the loftiest gallery of all1 there is a vast and delightful panorama which includes river and country as far as the eye can see4 ,what can be more beautiful than this scene8 ,where can one find a grander1 more solemn atmosphere than within these walls where the spirits and the hands of men have worked for ages8 ,where can he experience more lofty aspirations toward ,the glorious ,author of the universe ,who reins the minds1 gives the vast ocean bounds1 ,and circumscribes the floating worlds their rounds8 ,the city of ,cologne was founded by the ,ubii at the time when they were compelled by ,agrippa to migrate from the right to the left bank of the ,rhine1 7,b4 ,c4 #ch74 ,in ,a4 ,d4 #ea1 ,agrippina1 daughter of ,germanicus1 and mother of ,nero1 founded here a colony of ,roman veterans which at first was called ,colonia ,agrippinensis1 and afterward ,colonia ,claudia ,agrippina4 ,in #cjh ,constantine the ,great began a stone bridge over the ,rhine to ,deutz4 ,from the end of the fifth century ,cologne belonged to the ,franks and was long occupied by the ,ripuarian kings4 ,charlemagne raised the bishopric which had been founded here in the fourth century to an archbishopric1 the first archbishop being the imperial chaplain ,hildebold who built the oldest cathedral church1 and presented to it a valuable library which still exists4 ,the noble city has passed through many vicissitudes1 and it was not until after #ahae under ,prussian rule that it began to enjoy a degree of permanent prosperity4 ,the rapid progress of its steamboat and railway systems1 and the enterprise of the citizens1 many of whom possess great wealth1 have combined to make ,cologne the centre of the ,rhenish trade1 and one of the most considerable commercial cities in ,germany4 ,the town is built with long narrow streets curving in semicircles toward the river4 ,its sidewalks have the peculiarity of frequently dwindling away until only a few feet in width4 ,the great ,cathedral tower may be seen for miles1 reaching far above the surrounding buildings4 ,cologne is a city of legends and relics3 old and historic buildings dating back many centuries are scattered in all directions1 and here the visionary1 the lover of myth and legend1 can find abundant food for his imagination4 ,the great and valued possessions of the city are the bones of the eleven thousand virgins4 ,this is the legend3 ,fourteen hundred years ago1 ,st4 ,ursula and eleven thousand virgins went on a pilgrimage to ,rome1 and returning were all slain by the ,huns4 ,their bones were gathered together and brought to ,cologne1 where they were buried1 and later the church of ,st4 ,ursula1 now nearly nine hundred years old1 was built over their tomb4 ,within this church the bones of the virgins are enclosed in stone caskets1 with apertures through which they may be seen4 ,the skulls are covered with needlework and ornamented with pearls and precious stones4 ,among other relics1 is also to be found here the alabaster vase or rather one of the vases1 in which the ,saviour turned the water into wine at the marriage in ,cana4 ,the vase or jar is evidently a very ancient article3 it is much cracked1 and one handle is broken off4 ,there are many points of interest in this old city1 for here are museums1 gardens1 galleries and churches1 and always the picturesque river with its countless views and pleasure trips4 ,if one is weary of these legendary stories1 or even of sightseeing itself1 let him rest with me in one of the many public gardens1 listening to the charming music of a good orchestra4 ,there are skilled musicians in these gardens1 and their selections are always well rendered4 ,no loud or idle conversation is indulged in during these recitals4 ,should any such breach of good manners occur1 the transgressors are requested to observe the rule of the garden1 and if the offence is repeated1 they are ejected from the premises4 ,the ,germans1 being such lovers of good music1 tolerate no other in their gardens4 ,there is no admission fee1 but the expenses are supposed to be met by the sale of beer1 wine1 pretzels and ,frankfurt sausages4 ,before leaving ,cologne ,i must not forget to mention the refreshing perfume which has made this city famous all over the world4 ,the celebrated ,eau de ,cologne is said to have been invented by ,jean ,antoine ,marie ,farina of ,domodossola in the year #agji4 ,one could almost bathe in the perfume here for the money it would cost to filter our muddy ,philadelphia water4 ,there is an enormous quantity of it manufactured1 and almost every store seems to have it for sale4 ,illustration3 ,palace of ,bruehl4 7,see page #bgg47 ,a short distance from ,cologne1 or ,koeln as the ,germans call it1 is the almost forsaken station of ,bruehl4 ,i would advise the tourist to alight here1 and take a close view of the imperial palace known as the ,palace of ,bruehl1 a handsome building erected about the year #agbe4 ,as we advance toward the beautiful and spacious grounds1 it is not difficult to imagine the magnificent structure looming up in the distance as the home of royalty4 ,the approach to the palace is studded with marble statues1 and the palace itself is a classic example of the ,french and ,german rococo style of architecture2 from it radiate many lovely walks and bowery avenues which are adorned with fine statuary4 ,here too are velvet lawns1 noble trees and glowing flower beds1 and should one wish to view the interior of this elegant palace1 he will find that some of the rooms are open to visitors4 ,our stay within is necessarily brief4 ,retracing our steps to the station1 we take the train1 and are carried swiftly toward the old town of ,bonn4 ,along the ,banks of the ,rhine4 ,illustration3 ,lovely walks and bowery avenues4 7,see page #bgg47 ,along the ,banks of the ,rhine4 ,bonn--,the ,birthplace of ,beethoven--,the ,museum--,monument--,a ,famous ,restaurant--,college ,students--,beer ,mugs--,special ,tables--,affairs of ,honor--,koenigswinter--,magnificent ,views--,drachenfels--,the ,castle--,the ,dombruch--,siegfried and the ,dragon--,a ,desecrated ,ruin--,the ,splendor of the ,mountains--,many ,visitors--,view from the ,summit--,the ,students' ,chorus--,german ,life--,a ,german ,breakfast--,the ,camera--,old ,castles and ,lofty ,mountains--,legends of the ,rhine--,the ,waters of the ,rhine--,vineyards4 ,this town like its sister cities is of ancient foundation1 having been one of the first ,roman fortresses on the ,rhine4 ,it is the seat of a university which attracts students from all parts of the world4 ,it is a prosperous looking place with pleasant villas on the river banks1 and ancient picturesque houses4 ,there are lovely shaded walks in the public gardens1 and a fine view from the ,alte ,zoll1 but the chief interest of the town for us lies in the fact that it is the birthplace of ,beethoven4 ,in a small unpretentious house the great musician was born in #aggj1 and here were composed many of those wonderful harmonies which have thrilled the souls of lovers of music all over the world4 ,the room in which this noble genius first saw the light of day is in the top of the house1 a garret ten feet by twelve in size1 and contains no furniture whatever3 nor is it necessary to remind those who enter it1 by aught save the wreath of green which lies peacefully upon the floor1 that the spirit whose earthly tabernacle dwelt here breathed forth the fire of heaven4 ,creative genius4 ,from thy hand ,what shapes of order1 beauty rise1 ,where waves thy potent1 mystic wand1 ,to people ocean1 earth and skies4 ,in an adjoining room are stored some pieces of furniture which belonged to ,beethoven1 and the piano used by him in the composition of some of his most famous sonatas4 ,some of the ladies of our party are permitted to play upon this sacred instrument4 ,do they hope to be inspired by the magic spell of the master's touch still lingering among the keys8 ,the dwelling has been purchased by lovers of the celebrated composer1 and fitted up as a ,beethoven ,museum4 ,not far off stands the statue of the artist and the monument dedicated to him4 ,before leaving ,bonn1 we visit the famous restaurant which is the nightly resort of the students during the college term4 ,the spacious rooms composing this cafe communicate with each other by a wide and lofty doorway4 ,the furniture consists of bare wooden tables1 a long counter1 and dozens of shabby chairs which look as if they have seen hard service4 ,the corpulent and jovial proprietor informs us that these rooms are filled to overflowing with both gay and serious students every night in the week1 and that here1 notwithstanding the ofttimes boisterous merriment1 questions of grave import are often discussed1 together with all the current topics of interest2 and that speeches are made brilliant enough for publication in the daily papers4 ,here the young orator first tests his powers1 and in all his future career1 he will find no more critical audience than this composed of his fellow-students4 ,here too are nights given up to fun and jollity1 to college songs and wild and reckless mirth1 when there is not a serious countenance among the crowd4 ,he cannot try to speak with gravity1 ,but one perceives he wags an idle tongue2 ,he cannot try to look demure1 but spite ,of all he does he shows a laugher's cheek2 ,he cannot e'en essay to walk sedate1 ,but in his very gait one sees a jest ,that's ready to break out in spite of all ,his seeming4 ,hundreds of voices make the roof ring with tuneful harmony3 choruses1 glees and comic ballads follow each other1 interspersed with jokes and puffs at pipes and sips of beer1 for the ,german student is a ,rare compound of oddity1 frolic and fun1 ,to relish a joke and rejoice at a pun4 ,pounds of poor tobacco are smoked1 and gallons of good beer consumed at these gatherings1 and the landlord is always on the side of the boys when there is any trouble1 and rejoices in all their collegiate honors and their success in every other line4 ,upon the shelves above the tables are long rows of individual beer mugs1 with the owners' names or crests conspicuously painted in gay colors upon them4 ,these mugs vary in capacity from a pint to two quarts1 and the host assures me gravely that many of the students drain even the largest ones nine or ten times in the course of an evening4 ,i ponder1 as he speaks1 upon the wonderful power of expansion of the human stomach which performs this feat4 ,illustration3 ,not far off stands the statue of the artist4 7,see page #bhd47 ,as a natural consequence of this enormous appetite for beer1 one sees in the restaurants in many of the ,german cities an especial table constructed with a deep semicircular curve in the side1 which allows the corpulent guest to drink his favorite beverage in comfortable proximity to the bottle4 ,such as these must have been in ,shakespeare's mind1 when he wrote3 ,he was a man of an unbounded stomach4 ,the deep cuts and scars upon the faces of many of the students1 are matters of great pride with them1 as evidences of the number of affairs of honor in which they have been engaged4 ,they look with scorn upon the fellow collegian whose countenance does not display one or more of these signs of bloody combat1 and are always ready to seize an occasion of this kind for the exhibition of their bravery or their skill at arms4 ,sometimes these duels are a result of the silliest arguments1 at others they are sought by deliberate insult given by the one who wishes to fight4 ,a glance is sometimes sufficient for a sanguinary meeting4 ,will they ever learn that no stain can ever be washed out with blood1 no honor redeemed by the sword1 no moral bravery displayed by an encounter of this kind8 ,it is falling to the level of the brute1 with perhaps a little more skill evinced in the choice of the weapons of warfare4 ,it cannot but detract from the dignity of the human being1 and this is true to a far greater extent in the case of those who entertain themselves by witnessing such unnatural sports as prize fights1 cock fights1 and most degrading of all1 but thank heaven a rare sight in civilized countries1 the bull fight2--all relics of barbarism4 ,let us leave this unpleasant subject1 however1 and allow ourselves to be spirited away to a veritable fairy land of beauty1 and quaint legendary associations4 ,the little town of ,koenigswinter nestles at the foot of the ,seven ,mountains1 from which there are innumerable views of the ,rhine and the surrounding country4 ,a halo of romance surrounds this region1 and in the many excursions from this point1 the lover of the weird and visionary will find his every step accompanied by imaginary maidens of rare grace and beauty1 brave knights1 crafty priests1 wild huntsmen1 cruel dragons1 super-human heroes1 and all the wonderful personages of legendary lore4 ,the town is a thriving1 modern looking place of about thirty-five hundred inhabitants1 excluding the floating population of tourists who throng the hotels and scatter themselves among the private families4 ,we arrive here early in the afternoon1 and establish ourselves in a comfortable and attractive hotel4 ,the day is clear and pleasant1 and desiring to make good use of the hours of daylight before us1 we determine to make the ascent of the ,drachenfels4 ,there are a number of different routes or paths1 by which one may reach the summit of this mountain on foot2 or1 should the tourist prefer to ride1 he can use the ,mountain ,railway which approaches the top in a line almost straight4 ,protected by stout shoes1 carrying wraps1 and armed with long and strong wooden staffs1 we walk slowly along the mountain road1 pausing at intervals to gaze upon the beautiful scenes which surround us in every direction4 ,the great peak known as the ,drachenfels or ,dragon rock1 in which from the river a vast cavern may be seen1 owes its name to the numerous legends which are connected with it4 ,in the cave1 it is said1 lived a terrible monster who daily demanded of the people the sacrifice of a young maiden1 who was bound and decorated with flowers1 and placed near the entrance to his lair4 ,siegfried slew the dragon and by bathing in his blood1 became invulnerable4 ,the maiden whose life he thus saved was ,hildegarde1 the beautiful daughter of the ,lord of ,drachenfels1 whom he afterward married and bore to the castle whose crumbling and picturesque ruins seem to cling to the lofty crag1 fifteen hundred feet above the ,rhine4 ,this castle was once a mighty stronghold of the robber chieftains2 its foundation is associated with ,arnold1 ,archbishop of ,cologne at the beginning of the twelfth century1 who in #aadi bestowed it upon the ,cassius ,monastery at ,bonn4 ,it was held as a fief by the counts of the castle4 ,henry1 ,count of ,drachenfels1 furnished the chapter of the ,cathedral of ,cologne with the stone for its construction from a quarry which from this fact still bears the name of ,dombruch1 or cathedral quarry4 ,in the ,thirty ,years' ,war the half-ruined castle was occupied by the ,swedes1 but was besieged and taken from them by ,duke ,ferdinand of ,bavaria1 ,elector of ,cologne1 who completed its destruction4 ,the cliff is now surmounted by a beautiful new castle1 the ,drachenburg1 built in #ahhc for the ,baron von ,sarter4 ,it is in the ,gothic style1 and is elaborately decorated with frescoes and stained glass4 ,the upper part of the mountain is covered with trees below the cliff1 the lower part with grapevines1 while along the banks of the ,rhine at its foot are picturesque cottages1 nestling among trees and vines4 ,the ,drachenfels is the loftiest of the ,seven ,mountains1 and its summit commands one of the finest prospects on the ,rhine4 ,in the ruins of the old castle1 ingenious and progressive man has seen fit to ignore sentiment1 and thrust a modern restaurant1 where in spite of his shocked sensibilities1 the weary traveller may in return for ,german marks1 rest and refresh himself with sparkling wine which is famous for its fine quality and flavor1 while the cool breezes fan his brow and soothe his excited brain4 ,illustration3 ,the great peak known as the ,drachenfels1 or ,dragon ,rock4 7,see page #bia47 ,one lingers long1 dazzled by the splendor of this superb view4 ,mountains and valley1 river and islands unite in a glorious picture which entrances the soul1 and thrills the heart with gladness2 while the pure1 bracing mountain air1 laden with the perfume of the grape1 fills the lungs with a perpetual feast of nectar's sweets4 ,many tourists surround us1 and we hear a perfect babel of tongues3 ,french1 ,english1 ,german and other languages greet our ears1 assuring us that visitors from all parts of the world are enjoying this magnificent panorama with us4 ,what a pity the camera will not encompass the wonderful scene4 ,the castled crag of ,drachenfels ,frowns o'er the wide and winding ,rhine1 ,whose breast of waters broadly swells ,between the banks which bear the vine2 ,and hills all riched with blossom'd trees1 ,and fields which promise corn and wine2 ,and scatter'd cities crowning these1 ,whose fair white walls along them shine1 ,have strew'd a scene which ,i should see1 ,with double joy wert thou with me4 ,several of the ,siebengebirge are visible toward the east1 the basaltic heights sloping toward the ,rhine4 ,just below are ,rhoendorf1 ,honnef1 ,rheinbreitbach1 ,unkel1 and ,erpel2 on the left bank of the river are ,remagen and the ,gothic church on the ,apollinarisberg1 with the heights of the ,eifel and the ruin of ,olbrueck ,castle on a height of #a1eej feet4 ,in the neighborhood are ,oberwinter1 the islands of ,grafenwerth and ,nonnenworth and the beautiful ruins of ,rolandseck with its surrounding villas and gardens4 ,to the right1 one may behold ,kreuzberg1 ,bonn and even the city of ,cologne in the distance4 ,it seems as though one could gaze upon this scene of grandeur and beauty forever4 ,as twilight falls1 the picture receives a new and entrancing sublimity4 ,the weary sun hath made a golden set1 and silently the sparkling stars appear1 one by one1 while the deepening shadows blend the scene into a vast harmonious whole which seems to draw the soul up to the very threshold of heaven4 ,we descend the mountain rather silently1 unwilling to break the impression made by our journey1 and slowly through the gloom make our way back to the hotel4 ,while sitting upon the porch in the evening1 surrounded by the majestic watch towers of the ,rhine1 and expatiating on the pleasures of the day1 we suddenly hear a rich full chorus1 harmoniously sung by at least one hundred male and female voices4 ,the singers are invisible1 and the notes seem to float out from one of the neighboring mountain caves4 ,we all listen with delight to the sounds1 which now approaching nearer1 convince us that the singers are not the denizens of another world1 but are beings of flesh and blood like ourselves4 ,in the distance we can discern a procession of gay and jovial students with their sweethearts at their sides4 ,the young men are carrying lighted torches and lanterns which illuminate them and the road1 and are merrily singing the popular glees and college songs as they wend their way to the boat landing close by4 ,the party is returning from a ,german students' picnic1 and as they board the little steamer1 which immediately leaves her moorings1 the air is rent by cheer after cheer1 and we hear the gay laughter and happy voices long after the boat has disappeared from our eyes down the silent flowing river4 ,such is the ,german student life1 and such is the character of the ,german people3 not averse to pleasure1 sociable1 jovial1 kind and happy4 ,we rise early this morning1 and partake of a good ,german breakfast2 and of what do you suppose a good ,german breakfast consists8 ,dishes of greasy sausage or bacon swimming in its own gravy1 kale or saurkraut1 onions and hot sauces1 potatoes soaked in lard2 black bread which has also been soaked in lard to save the expense of butter3 and all this washed down with innumerable mugs of beer or ,rhine wine1 with a thank heaven when the unsavory repast can no longer offend our eyes or olfactories8 ,no1 my dear friend2 our breakfast is a most agreeable contrast to the picture just drawn4 ,we are served with deliciously cooked steak and chops1 and the connoisseur of any nationality would not disdain these meats or the daintily prepared chicken1 coffee and fresh rolls4 ,the eggs are fresh and not underdone3 one can find no fault with the butter or the sweet new milk1 and it is with a feeling of great satisfaction that we rise from the table at the close of the meal1 and exclaim that we have had a breakfast fit for a king4 ,a small steamer with an upper deck waits at the landing to convey passengers and a limited amount of freight from ,koenigswinter to ,bingen4 ,it is ten o'clock when we step on this attractive little boat with our numerous wraps and parcels4 ,we are well laden1 for the camera occupies one hand1 and is always ready for an unexpected shot at some picturesque figure1 group1 building or landscape4 ,and ,i will here say to the tourist who wishes to illustrate his notes1 that it is best to keep camera and sketch book handy1 for you little know what fine opportunities are missed while you are stopping to unstrap your needed friend4 ,let your sketching outfit hang over your shoulder1 and as to the camera1 have one which will respond to your touch within five seconds1 or you will lose many a scene of beauty which otherwise would rejoice the hearts of friends at home4 ,we are much amused at the bulky apparatus of a friend1 which is always carried neatly strapped in its box1 while mine hangs over my shoulder1 ready to snap instantly to a demand upon it4 ,the difference in the result of the two methods is that ,i have a collection of many valuable pictures1 while our friend spends most of his time strapping and unstrapping his camera4 ,the day is chilly and threatening1 and as we leave the landing1 we find ourselves in a heavy fog1 much to my disappointment1 for ,i have anticipated great pleasure in seeing and photographing the many beautiful ruins of old castles and the landscape along our route4 ,however as the mist lightens now and then1 ,i shoot away here and there with as much ardor as the circumstances will allow3 not idly or carelessly1 as the enthusiastic amateur1 reckless of plates and results1 but at unquestionably fine points1 such as lofty castles and picturesque mountains1 half fearing sometimes that in spite of my precautions the longed-for view will prove but a blur upon my plate4 ,it is bold indeed to attempt to capture such sublime pictures with such faulty exposures4 ,the country around ,koenigswinter is extremely beautiful4 ,upon both sides of the ,rhine rise the lofty peaks of the wooded mountains1 with in almost every case a ruined castle upon the summit4 ,how noble and defiant is the appearance of these venerable fortresses with their eventful histories and wonderful legends4 ,here near ,remagen within full view of the river is the church dedicated to ,st4 ,apollinaris1 at one time a great resort for pilgrims4 ,it is said to be beautifully decorated with ancient and modern works of art2 the view from the church tower so charmed the artist who first ornamented it that he painted his portrait upon the tower that his eyes might forever look upon the mountains and valleys and follow the winding course of the glistening river4 ,near the church1 at the foot of the mountain1 is the celebrated ,apollinaris fountain1 whose waters are bottled and sent to all parts of the world for their medicinal properties4 ,illustration3 ,how noble and defiant is the appearance of these venerable fortresses4 7,see page #cjj47 ,at times the blue breaks through the clouds1 and then the pictures are surpassingly lovely4 ,the castles in their sorrowful majesty are very imposing3 they are generally built of stone1 are of fine architectural design1 and are frequently the centre of charming old gardens1 or are embowered in trees and shrubbery4 ,here they stand year after year1 looking down upon the ever youthful river4 ,some of them are occupied1 while others are desolate ruins4 ,high towers1 fair temples1 ,strong walls1 rich porches1 princely palaces1 ,all these 7oh pity71 now are turned to dust1 ,and overgrown with black oblivion's rust4 ,one can hardly realize the grandeur of this scenery4 ,every turn of the river presents a different view3 it is an ever varying kaleidoscope of natural beauty4 ,now we behold the mountains with their masses of foliage reaching to the very summits2 now the charming village amid its vineyards1 with its odd little church surrounded by picturesque frame houses with plain roofs and quaint gables4 ,while sitting silently on deck gazing upon the old castles and ever changing scenes which border this beautiful body of water1 ,i hear solemn tones proceeding from the belfry of an old church1 and behold a little procession of mourners slowly following the hearse which is bearing the remains of some loved relative or friend to their final resting-place2--a pathetic little group walking sadly along through the drenching rain from the church to the burying ground4 ,one is compelled to notice here the numerous signs with huge letters emblazoned upon them1 informing the passers-by that here are bottled popular waters of medicinal qualities4 ,the tottering establishments are1 ,i observe1 close to the water's edge1 and whether or not the ,rhine contributes the greater part in the composition of these famous waters is an open question4 ,however it may be1 the waters1 or mineral springs1 of genuine virtue or otherwise1 are the source of a considerable profit in this region4 ,water as a beverage is seldom used by the ,germans1 for the light ,rhine wines are to be had in perfection at a trifling cost4 ,illustration3 ,every turn of the river presents a different view4 7,see page #cjc47 ,we glide along1 passing island and vineyard1 and castle crowned height1 with now and then a wide curve in the river1 which looks with its smiling face to-day much as it did centuries ago when the old strongholds reared up their piles of masonry in regal splendor1 and noble retinues defiled down the narrow mountain paths to the water's edge4 ,thou1 unchanged from year to year ,gayly shalt play and glitter here2 ,amid young flowers and tender grass1 ,thine endless infancy shalt pass2 ,and1 singing down thy narrow glen1 ,shall mock the fading race of men4 ,from ,bingen on the ,rhine to ,frankfort-on-the-,main4 ,illustration3 ,now we behold the little church surrounded by picturesque houses4 7,see page #cjc47 ,from ,bingen on the ,rhine to ,frankfort-on-the-,main4 ,vast ,vineyards--,bingen--,the ,hotel--,the ,down ,quilt--,a ,german ,maid--,taverns--,the ,mouse ,tower--,ruedesheim--,niederwald--,the ,rheingau--,the ,national ,monument--,the ,castle of ,niederburg--,wine ,vaults--,the ,river--,street ,musicians--,a ,misunderstanding--,frankfort-on-the-,ma in--,the ,crossing of the ,ford--,a ,free ,city--,monument of ,goethe--,history--,a ,convocation of ,bishops--,the ,city--,monument of ,gutenberg--,the ,house in which ,rothschild was ,born--,luther4 ,after leaving ,koenigswinter1 we pass vast vineyards on both sides of the ,rhine1 and as we approach ,bingen we see them covering the whole mountain-side4 ,among the vines may be seen what seem like steps encircling the mountain to its very summit1 but which in reality are roads or paths through the vineyard4 ,the sturdy and prolific vines grow close to these walks4 ,in this section of the country the greatest care is given to grape culture1 hence in ,bingen is to be found the finest wine made in the country4 ,in this region are located great breweries and wine vaults extending into the mountain-sides for hundreds of feet4 ,on arriving at ,bingen we proceed at once to the ,victoria ,hotel1 a quiet house situated at a convenient distance from both railroad station and steamboat landing4 ,the charges are moderate1 and the accommodations good4 ,upon entering our sleeping apartment1 ,i observe upon the beds huge fluffy quilts stuffed with soft feathers1 and forming a pile at least two feet in thickness1 which covers the entire surface from bolster to footboard4 ,this ominous appearance fills me with strange forebodings and wondering thoughts4 ,i say to myself3 ,god made the country1 and man made the town1 but who on earth has manufactured these monstrous counterpanes1 and for what purpose8 ,surely not for ornament1 for they are the most unsightly objects ,i have ever beheld in the line of needlework1 and look as if intended to smother hydrophobia patients4 ,but as few dogs are seen hereabout1 this does not seem probable4 ,the appearance of a smiling innocent-faced chambermaid interrupts my meditations4 ,she informs me that these great masses of feathers are used to keep the body warm at night4 ,i conclude from this that the ,germans are a cold-blooded people1 since such a slaughter of the feathery tribe is necessary to maintain their normal temperature when in a state of repose4 ,as night advances1 ,i summon up courage to crawl under this fluffy mountain1 and in a few moments feel as if a great loaf of freshly-baked bread is lying upon me4 ,the heat is intense1 and makes me think of ,eternal torments1 baths of boiling sulphur1 vicissitudes of fires4 ,i cast it off1 and as the nights are chilly1 soon find myself too cool4 ,but ,i will not allow the enemy to return and overpower me1 for there is much to be seen hereabout on the morrow1 and ,i know that overgrown spread would absorb all the strength reserved for the occasion4 ,placing my steamer rug upon the bed1 ,i am soon oblivious to all surroundings and happy in a land of pleasant dreams4 ,illustration3 ,approaching ,bingen we see vineyards covering the mountain side4 7,see page #cac47 ,this house is indeed delightfully located in the midst of a beautiful country4 ,bingen is a lovely town at the entrance of the romantic ,nahe valley1 looking out upon mountain1 glen and river on every side1 upon lofty castles and vine-embowered cottages4 ,quaint narrow streets and ancient buildings1 whose history is buried in the distant centuries1 tempt the lover of the picturesque to linger in this neighborhood4 ,the place was known to the ,romans1 who erected a castle here1 which was destroyed by the ,french in #afhi1 but which has been restored and extended4 ,there is a beautiful view from the tower1 and footpaths ascend to it both from the ,nahe and the ,rhine4 ,here are old historic taverns1 whose floors are composed of large slabs of stone4 ,the primitive chairs and tables are of rude workmanship1 and devoid of paint or style1 but heavy and strong enough to support the weary travellers who resort thither4 ,we wander about1 revelling in nature's enchanting pictures1 and rejoicing in the mysterious atmosphere of the dense forests1 which form the background4 ,the smiling river1 with its silver sheen beneath the moon1 or its golden reflections of the setting sun1 is ever an inspiration and a suggestion for some new trip or point of vantage4 ,yes1 here are scenes for the artist1 and pictures ready for the camera4 ,here too1 on a quartz rock in the middle of the ,rhine is the ,mouse ,tower which is said to owe its name to the well-known legend of the cruel ,archbishop ,hatto of ,mayence4 ,in the year #iad1 a protracted rain ruined the harvest in this region1 and a terrible famine ensued among the poor people1 who in their distress finally applied to the archbishop1 as his granaries were overflowing with the harvests of former years4 ,but the hard-hearted prelate would not listen to them4 ,at last they wearied him so with their importunities1 that he bade them assemble in an empty barn1 promising to meet them on a certain day and quiet their demands4 ,delighted with the prospect of relief1 the people gathered on the appointed day in such numbers that the barn was soon filled4 ,the archbishop ordered his servants to fasten all the doors and windows so that none could escape1 and then set fire to the building1 declaring that they were as troublesome as rats1 and should perish in the same way4 ,the following day1 when the bishop entered his dining-room1 he found that the rats had gnawed his recently finished portrait from the frame1 and it lay in a heap of fragments on the floor4 ,while he stood gazing at it a messenger burst into the room with the news that a great army of fierce looking rats were coming toward the castle4 ,without a moment's delay the archbishop flung himself on a horse and rode rapidly away followed by thousands of rats all animated by the revengeful spirits of the starving population he had burned4 ,he had scarcely dismounted and entered a small boat on the ,rhine1 when the rats fell upon his horse and devoured it4 ,rowing to his tower in the middle of the ,rhine1 he locked himself in1 thinking he had escaped his voracious foes2 but the rats boldly swam across the ,bingerloch1 and gnawed thousands of holes in the tower1 through which they rushed to their victim4 ,southey in his ballad1 thus describes their entrance into the tower3 ,and in at the windows1 and in at the door1 ,and through the walls1 helter-skelter they pour1 ,and down from the ceiling1 and up from the floor1 ,from the right and the left1 from behind and before1 ,from within and without1 from above and below1 ,and all at once to the bishop they go4 ,they have whetted their teeth against the stones1 ,and now they pick the bishop's bones2 ,they knawed the flesh from every limb1 ,for they were sent to do judgment on him4 ,this is the old legend2 but now comes the searcher after truth with the information that the tower was in reality erected in the middle ages as a watch tower1 and the name is derived from the old ,german musen1 to spy4 ,these ruins were again converted into a station for signalling steamers1 which in descending the ,rhine are required to slacken speed here when other vessels are coming up the river4 ,taking one of the small steamboats which run from ,bingen to the opposite bank1 we land at the little town of ,ruedesheim which lies at the base of the mountain4 ,this old town is one of the most famous on the river1 not only for its wines but for the legend of the beautiful ,gisela1 who was commanded by her father to become a nun in fulfillment of his vow made in ,palestine during the crusade against the ,saracens4 ,the maiden had a lover1 and finding that no entreaties could save her from her fate1 ,gisela leaped from a tower into the river1 and the fishermen declare that her spirit still lingers about the ,bingerloch1 and her voice is often heard amid the rushing torrent4 ,the first vineyards here are said to have been planted by ,charlemagne1 who observed that the snow disappeared earlier from the hills behind the town than from other regions in the neighborhood4 ,the ,ruedesheimer ,berg is covered with walls and arches1 and terrace rises above terrace1 to prevent the falling of the soil4 ,we drive to the top of this charming hill whose sunny slopes are clothed with vineyards4 ,upon the summit1 as on most of the others in the neighborhood1 there is a hotel with grounds prettily laid out1 and here one may remain and enjoy the pure air and enchanting views1 for a day1 a week1 or for the whole season4 ,here1 too1 is the ,national ,monument1 in describing which ,i will copy the words of my guide book3 ,the ,national ,monument on the ,niederwald1 erected in commemoration of the unanimous rising of the people and the foundation of the new ,german ,empire in #ahgj-ga1 stands upon a projecting spur of the hill 7#ihj feet above the sea level2 #gdj feet above the ,rhine71 opposite ,bingen1 and is conspicuous far and wide4 ,it was begun in #ahgg from the designs of ,professor ,schilling of ,dresden1 and was inaugurated in #ahhc in presence of ,emperor ,william ,i4 and numerous other ,german princes4 ,the huge architectural basis is seventy-eight feet high1 while the noble figure of ,germania1 with the imperial crown and the laurel-wreathed sword1 an emblem of the unity and strength of the empire1 is thirty-three feet in height4 ,the principal relief on the side of the pedestal facing the river1 symbolizes the ',wacht am ,rhein4' ,it contains portraits of ,king ,william of ,prussia and other ,german princes and generals1 together with representatives of the troops from the different parts of ,germany1 with the text of the famous song below2 to the right and left are allegorical figures of ,peace and ,war1 while below are ,rhenus and ,mosella1 the latter as the future guardian of the western frontier of the empire4 ,the fine reliefs on the sides of the pedestal represent the departure and the return of the troops4 ,we visit many of the most noted breweries and wine vaults in the neighborhood4 ,those of ,herr ,j4 ,hufnagel are the largest in this section of the country4 ,they are cut in the base of the mountain1 and extend inward many hundred feet4 ,here the choice wines are stored1 many of the enormous casks containing upwards of twenty thousand quarts4 ,hundreds of barrels and hogsheads are seen2 in fact every nook and corner of the vault is filled1 and so extensive is this subterranean apartment1 that avenues are made from one part to another1 and along these we walk1 the guide bearing a lamp to light the way4 ,after visiting these great storerooms1 we are invited to the hotel of the proprietor1 which is close by1 and on the porch we are served with an enjoyable lunch flavored with choice ,german wine4 ,there is a beautiful drive along the river bank1 and if one is tired1 he may stop at one of the inviting restaurants in this neighborhood1 and while resting and refreshing himself1 look out at the tourists and others passing along the wide airy street1 or as is a common custom1 he may have his luncheon served upon the porch1 from which there is a delightful and extended view of the ,rhine4 ,with plenty of shade and comfortable chairs1 and the beautiful river before us1 how swiftly the time passes6 ,sometimes1 in consequence of our ignorance of the language1 laughable mistakes are made in the ordering of our meals1 which seem to increase the jollity of both the waiters and our party4 ,on one of these occasions1 while eating our luncheon in the open air1 a band of eight or ten street musicians station themselves upon the porch but a few feet from us4 ,they are healthy1 hearty-looking men1 but contrary to our previous experience in this country1 they play the most inharmonious airs4 ,we endure this for a short time1 then as the discordant sounds become more and more annoying1 we bestow upon the leader a number of small coins1 and entreat them to begone4 ,they evidently misunderstand us1 and think1 from our liberal contribution1 that we appreciate their efforts1 for they continue their playing with increased vigor and--discord4 ,we do not wish to leave our pleasant quarters1 so resign ourselves to the situation4 ,after repeating their repertoire1 which seems endless1 with profuse smiling bows and thanks they leave us at last to the peaceful enjoyment of the day4 ,the ,niederberg is a massive rectangular castle whose three vaulted stories1 belonging to the twelfth century1 were joined to the remains of a structure of earlier date4 ,it was originally the seat of the ,knights of ,ruedesheim1 who were compelled to become vassals of the ,archbishop of ,mayence for brigandage4 ,at ,ruedesheim begins the ,rheingau1 which is the very vineyard of this country4 ,here every foot of ground is cultivated1 and the grape is the monarch of the land4 ,all the hillsides are covered with the vines1 and here in the midst of the verdure appears the picturesque villa of the planter or wine merchant4 ,it is a rich and beautiful region4 ,from ,bingen and ,ruedesheim we go to ,frankfort-on-the-,main4 ,this town which has witnessed the coronation of many of the ,german emperors1 is noted for its ancient legends1 and to one of these it is said it owes its name4 ,this is the story3 ,charlemagne1 having penetrated into the forests to wage war against the ,saxons1 was once compelled to retreat with his brave ,franks4 ,a heavy fog lay over the country which was unknown to him4 ,fearing that his little army would be cut to pieces if he lingered1 and unable to see more than a few feet ahead of him1 ,charlemagne prayed to the ,lord for help and guidance4 ,the next moment the heavy fog parted1 and the emperor saw a doe leading her young through the stream4 ,he instantly called to his men1 and they forded the river in safety4 ,the fog closed behind them and hid them from the pursuing enemy4 ,in commemoration of his deliverance1 ,charlemagne called the place ,frankford 7the ford of the ,franks71 and the city which grew up shortly afterward retained the name4 ,this1 one of the important cities of ,germany1 is said to have been a small ,roman military station in the first century1 ,a4 ,d4 ,it is first mentioned as ,franconoford and the seat of the royal residence in #gic2 and the following year ,charlemagne held a convocation of bishops and dignitaries of the empire here4 ,the town attained such a degree of prosperity that in #hgf1 at the death of ,lewis the ,german1 it was looked upon as the capital of the east ,franconian ,empire4 ,on the dissolution of the empire in #ahjf1 ,frankfort was made over to the ,primate of the ,rhenish ,confederation1 and in #ahaj it became the capital of the grand-duchy of ,frankfort4 ,it was one of the four free cities of the ,german ,confederation1 and the seat of the ,diet from #ahae to #ahff1 in which year it passed to ,prussia4 ,to-day we find it a handsome city of two hundred and twenty-nine thousand inhabitants1 with beautiful streets1 stately houses surrounded by lovely gardens1 and fine stores1 parks1 monuments and many attractions for the tourist4 ,here are churches1 theatres1 libraries and museums1 and an opera house which will accommodate two thousand spectators4 ,in the ,rossmarkt stands the monument of ,gutenberg1 which consists of three figures1 ,gutenberg in the centre with ,fust and ,schoffer on either side1 upon a large sandstone pedestal4 ,on the frieze are portrait heads of celebrated printers1 and in the niches beneath are the arms of the four towns where printing was first practiced3 ,mayence1 ,frankfort1 ,venice and ,strassburg4 ,around the base are figures representing ,theology1 ,poetry1 ,natural ,science and ,industry4 ,this monument was erected in #aheh4 ,this is the birthplace of ,goethe1 and here is the house in which the poet was born1 with its inscription recording that event1 7,august #bh1 #agdi74 ,the handsome monument of ,goethe1 erected in #ahdd1 twelve years after his death adorns the ,goethe-,platz4 ,the pedestal of the monument bears allegorical figures in relief in front1 while on the sides are figures from the poems of the great writer4 ,there are twenty-three thousand ,jews in ,frankfort1 and in the quarter to which these people are limited1 we are shown the house in which the ,senior ,rothschild was born4 ,it is an unassuming brick building of three stories1 in good repair4 ,as ,i gaze upon this modest dwelling1 ,i think of the man who from such unpromising beginning1 became the founder of the greatest financial firm the world has known4 ,there is a stone effigy of ,luther not far from the ,cathedral1 in memory of a tradition that the great reformer preached a sermon here on his journey to ,worms4 ,it is true that these associations are to be found in almost every ,european town2 but none the less are we impressed as we stand before the monuments of the great ones of the earth--the men who have left their indelible marks--footprints on the sands of time --which the years have no power to efface4 ,these men must have truly lived4 ,he most lives ,who thinks most1 feels the noblest1 acts the best4 ,the ,cathedral of ,frankford is a conspicuous edifice towering above the other buildings1 quaint and picturesque in spite of a lack of harmony in many of its details4 ,from the platform of the tower1 one may have a beautiful view of the city1 with its thick border of trees1 and of the fields and meadows beyond along the shining waters of the ,main4 ,this ,church of ,st4 ,bartholomew was founded by ,lewis the ,german in #heb1 and was rebuilt in the ,gothic style #abce-ci4 ,the different portions represent various periods4 ,the tower1 left unfinished in #aeab1 now three hundred and twelve feet high1 was completed from the designs of the architect which were discovered in the municipal archives4 ,a ,prussian ,capital and a ,fashionable ,resort4 ,a ,prussian ,capital and a ,fashionable ,resort4 ,we ,start for ,berlin--,mountain and ,valley--,harvesters--,villages--,a ,great ,city--,unter den ,linden--,kroll ,theatre and ,garden--,the ,city ,streets--,ostend--,a ,fashionable ,watering ,place--,the ,promenade--,the ,kursaal--,on the ,beach--,bathing ,machines--,studies for an ,artist--,the ,race ,course--,sunday--,the ,winning ,horse--,fickle ,dame ,fortune--,the ,english ,channel--,a ,bureau of ,information--,queenstown--,an ,irish ,lass--,the ,last ,stop--,the ,end of the ,journey4 ,the journey from ,frankfort to ,berlin is through a pleasant and interesting country4 ,for many miles we look from the car windows upon an undulating landscape3 hills and valleys follow each other in rapid succession as our train dashes along at the rate of a mile a minute4 ,now and then we pass men and women in the fields2 and now young girls with bare feet and short skirts busily raking the hay1--true pictures of ,maud ,muller on a summer day4 ,and here is a whole group of nut brown maids laughing merrily at their work1 while over in a corner of the field is the belle of the countryside listening shyly to the stalwart young harvester who stands on the border of the adjoining meadow4 ,her tresses loose behind ,play on her neck and wanton with the wind2 ,the rising blushes which her cheeks o'erspread ,are opening roses in the lily's bed4 ,now we pass the harvesters at rest1 sitting under the green trees and hedges with their dinner pails beside them4 ,it is a pleasant1 peaceful picture4 ,here is a picturesque village with quaint looking houses1 and a little gurgling brook in the foreground4 ,an echo from the distant mountain answers the shrill whistle of our engine and we can see the silvery cloud of smoke that follows us wander off to the right1 then fade away in misty fragments4 ,in many of these settlements1 there are shaded nooks where tables and chairs are placed1 and here the villagers are sipping their beer1 in happy social converse4 ,the young people wave their hands and caps to us as we pass1 and with their bright costumes animate the lovely scenes which1 although so close to each other1 are of such different character4 ,at last we reach ,berlin1 and our great iron horse stands puffing in the station1 defying man to detect upon him any sign of exhaustion4 ,in this large city entertainment can be found for people of every kind and taste4 ,the street known throughout the world as ,unter-den-,linden is a splendid avenue1 one hundred and sixty-five feet in width1 and takes its name from the double row of linden trees with which it is ornamented4 ,it is the busiest portion of the city1 contains handsome hotels1 beautiful palaces1 large shops1 and many fine statues of celebrated men4 ,the first day or two after your arrival in the city1 engage a carriage and take in the general appearance of the city1 its parks and suburbs2 then visit the art galleries1 museums1 palaces and churches until the brain becomes accustomed to the bewildering array of subjects which demand attention4 ,stroll quietly along ,unter-den-,linden stopping now and then at one of the many stores which line this beautiful avenue4 ,at one end of this thoroughfare is the celebrated ,brandenburg ,gate1 a sort of triumphal arch4 ,it is a fine structure1 two hundred feet wide and seventy-five feet high1 supported by ,doric columns4 ,there are five entrances1 the central one being reserved for the passage of members of the royal family4 ,the ,kroll ,theatre and ,gardens are a popular resort for the people of ,berlin4 ,these gardens are illuminated every evening by thousands of electric lights1 arranged in various designs1 as flowers1 harps and other graceful forms1 and this illuminated scene is the centre of a gay throng of pleasure seekers1 who promenade the paths1 or sit about in groups listening to the music of the fine orchestras stationed at each end of the spacious grounds4 ,the entertainment is not over until a very late hour4 ,there are a number of these gardens throughout the city1 which are not1 as may be supposed1 frequented by the lower classes of the people1 but by persons of every rank in society4 ,one can hardly appreciate this scene without having passed an evening amid its light-hearted crowds4 ,here may be seen officers of many honors1 with conspicuous gold and silver badges1 mingling with the groups gathered around the tables1 or sauntering up and down the garden walks1 as well as the private soldier in his regimentals happily quaffing his beer with his sweetheart by his side4 ,title and rank here as well as elsewhere throughout ,germany1 are honored and respected by all classes1 and the salute is gracefully made whenever one of the army or navy men meets his superior officer4 ,illustration3 ,thousands of fashionably dressed people appear upon this promenade4 7,see page #cdc47 ,berlin with its life and gayety1 its grandeur and simplicity1 its hospitality and good cheer1 captivates our hearts1 and we enter joyously into the many diversions it offers2 as we sit among the honest and kind-hearted people1 we feel the charm of their social atmosphere and wonder why other nations do not allow themselves more time for relaxation and the simple pleasures which abound here4 ,the ,friedrichs-,strasse is the longest street in the city3 it is well laid out1 and contains many handsome stores4 ,wilhelms-,strasse is a beautiful avenue1 and is considered the most aristocratic street in ,berlin1 as it contains the palaces of princes1 ministers and other distinguished personages4 ,a handsome square opens from this avenue1 ornamented with flower-beds and fine statuary4 ,the museums here are called the ,old ,museum and the ,new ,museum2 they are connected by a passage gallery4 ,the entrance to the ,old ,museum is adorned by handsome statuary1 and the grand portico is beautifully painted with allegorical and mythological subjects3 within1 the walls are decorated with frescoes representing barbarous and civilized life1 and in the great rotunda are ancient statues of gods and goddesses4 ,from this one passes to the ,gallery of ,gods and ,heroes1 the ,grecian cabinet1 the ,hall of the ,emperors1 and that of ,greek1 ,roman and ,assyrian sculptures4 ,but it is vain to attempt a description of this vast collection of paintings1 and other works of art in the short space ,i have to devote to the subject4 ,to appreciate a collection of this kind1 one should visit it in person4 ,the ,thiergarten is a great park1 two miles long1 beautifully laid out1 and containing many splendid old trees1 rustic paths1 and artificial ponds and streams4 ,the grounds are ornamented with statuary1 and the fine zooelogical collection is in good condition and well arranged4 ,but we must leave fascinating ,berlin1 and pass on to other scenes4 ,now we reach ,ostend on the coast of ,belgium1 one of the most fashionable watering-places of ,europe4 ,during the season it attracts thousands of visitors1 especially from ,belgium and ,holland4 ,it was originally a fishing station1 but was enlarged by ,philip the ,good1 and fortified by the ,prince of ,orange in #aehc4 ,in the early part of the seventeenth century it sustained one of the most remarkable sieges on record1 holding out against the ,spanish for a period of three years1 and finally surrendering only at the command of the ,states ,general4 ,illustration3 ,there are many odd and fantastic sights here4 7,see page #cdg47 ,to-day promenades take the places of the old fortifications1 and handsome residences stand where the simple sturdy fisherfolk once dwelt in their cottages4 ,the tide of fashion rolls where a simple people lived their daily life of care and toil4 ,here congregate people of every nation1 the old and the young2 and the cosmopolitan character of the promenade is a source of great entertainment to the stranger4 ,as we approach the ,digue or chief promenade1 which is elevated fully a hundred feet above the beach1 we are struck with the beauty of this grand esplanade1 a hundred feet wide and extending miles along the shore4 ,on the city side are many handsome buildings2 residences1 hotels1 cafes and some stores4 ,these buildings occupy a space fully a mile in length1 but the promenade with its tiled pavement skirts the sea for many miles4 ,chairs and benches are placed at convenient intervals for the use of the public1 and every day1 especially in the afternoon1 thousands of fashionably dressed people appear upon this walk1 rejoicing in the opportunity to display elaborate gowns2 some by strolling to and fro before the benches and chairs1 and others by more ostentatiously driving by in handsome equipages1 with coachmen and footmen in appropriate livery4 ,yet it is delightful to sit here on a clear evening1 listening to the harmonious melody of the sea1 as it mingles its voice with the strains of a fine orchestra1 and watching the merry throng passing and repassing4 ,the silent night afar out on the glistening waters seems like a brooding spirit4 ,thou boundless1 shining1 glorious sea1 ,with ecstasy ,i gaze on thee2 ,and as ,i gaze1 thy billowy roll ,wakes the deep feelings of my soul4 ,we extend our walk and take in the ,kursaal1 a handsome structure of marble and iron built upon the side of the promenade4 ,it covers a large area1 and within its walls1 the sounds of choice music are constantly heard4 ,dances1 concerts and many other forms of entertainment keep this fashionable resort in a whirl both day and night4 ,on many of these occasions the dressing is the most important feature of the affair4 ,the people who resort thither are families of considerable wealth1 and can1 when they choose1 run to extremes in paying court to ,dame ,fashion4 ,illustration3 ,one's portfolio might soon be filled with interesting subjects4 7,see page #cdg47 ,let us descend about noon1 by the long low steps1 from the promenade to the beach below1 and here we will find a long unbroken line of wagons facing the sea4 ,these wagons have large numbers painted conspicuously on their backs3 upon one side is a window with a curtain carelessly drawn1 and a pair of strong shafts is attached to each vehicle4 ,the stranger will wonder what on earth these unsightly things are designed for1 and why they thus mar the beauty of the beach4 ,have patience2 inexperienced stranger1 and you will see these inanimate wagons suddenly break ranks and now one1 now another be hauled rapidly forward1 some to the water's edge1 others into the ocean up to the hubs4 ,in explanation of this ,i would state that when the bathing hour arrives1 a horse is attached to each wagon1 and the occupant or occupants1 when it reaches the water's edge1 open the door and spring forth a nymph and her companions1 in their scant bathing robes1 ready for the plunge4 ,the costumes of both men and women are not such as find favor with fastidious mortals1 and many of the scenes witnessed on this beach would not be tolerated at any of our ,american watering-places4 ,it is quite common for men1 women and children to remove their shoes and stockings and wade ankle deep in the surf4 ,however1 there are many odd and fantastic sights here1 and many pretty tableaux on the beach which would delight the eyes of an artist1 and ,i often think that one's portfolio might soon be filled with interesting subjects4 ,as the races are to be held this afternoon at the ,course1 a mile beyond the ,kursaal1 and just off the promenade1 we wend our way thither4 ,the race-course is similar to those in ,england and ,france4 ,as the appointed hour approaches1 a throng of fashionable people seat themselves upon the grand stand1 until every place is filled1 and even the aisles are crowded with the elite of ,ostend4 ,i forgot to mention the fact that the day is ,sunday1 but this seems to make little difference to these gayety-loving people4 ,the horses start1 and now betting and excitement go hand in hand4 ,some play for gain3 to pass time1 others play ,for nothing2 both do play the fool4 ,i have the peculiar good fortune on this occasion1 of predicting the winning horse a number of consecutive times in my conversation with one of our party who sits beside me4 ,these lucky guesses attract the attention of a stranger who is on my other side1 and considering them as so many evidences of remarkable judgment or knowledge1 he resolves to profit thereby4 ,accordingly before the next running1 as the horses walk slowly before the spectators and the judges' stand1 the man quietly asks me to name the winner in the next race4 ,i quickly make a choice and mention the horse's name4 ,the stranger bids me good-day and hastens away to place his pile with some bookmaker on the identical horse which ,i have named4 ,illustration3 ,many typical ,irish characters come aboard our vessel4 7,see page #cec47 ,with a rush of spirit and courage the noble animals fly over the course1 and every jockey seated in a saddle looks determined to win4 ,faster and faster they urge the flying steeds with spur and voice1 and the animals themselves1 with distended nostrils and steaming breath dash past the judges' stand in frenzied effort4 ,the merry jingle of the bell proclaims that the goal is reached3 the great sign-board with the winner's name upon it is visible to all4 ,what has become of my luck8 ,and what has become of the stranger who relied on my judgment a few moments ago8 ,my horse has lost4 ,goodness6 ,i feel as though ,i have committed a crime1 and ,i am very sure that ,dame ,fortune receives from me in private a score of epithets1 not the most complimentary in the world for her unprincipled desertion4 ,i feel sure that if ,i had my instantaneous camera1 or pencil handy1 this disappointed man's face would make a foreground in the picture that would surely be a winner4 ,we leave ,ostend on the steamer ,la ,flandre4 ,the schedule time is #aj3dj ,a4 ,m4 ,we go on board amid shouts of kindly farewell from our friends on shore4 ,as it is a clear bright day with a delightful salt breeze1 there is much pleasure in sitting on deck and enjoying the view4 ,the ,english ,channel is generally a turbulent body of water1 noted for its many victories over the unfortunates who trust themselves in its power1 but to-day it is mild and calm1 probably plotting mischief to the next boat load of passengers that shall come its way4 ,indescribable confusion reigns in our hotel1 at ,liverpool1 for more than a hundred of its guests are on the point of sailing for ,america4 ,innumerable packages1 grips1 umbrellas and walking sticks line the corridors4 ,every one is moving to and fro in hot haste4 ,one lady asks me if ,i know at what hour the steamer on which she has taken passage will sail3 another wants information in regard to her steamer3 a man with perspiration trickling down his face begs me to tell him how to send his five trunks and other baggage to the landing stage4 ,these and many more annoying and importunate people make life a burden to me4 ,i do not know why they choose me to share in their misery4 ,do ,i look like a walking bureau of information1 ,i wonder6 ,if ,i do1 ,i shall learn how to change my expression4 ,but in truth the faces of these bewildered people are a study1 and ,i am genuinely sorry for them4 ,the steamer cuts loose from her moorings1 and moves gracefully out into the great ocean4 ,as we approach ,queenstown1 we observe the small farms and dwellings close to the edge of the water4 ,then the lighthouse and the forts which guard the entrance to the harbor come into view1 and now we drop anchor and wait for passengers and the mails4 ,a little steam tug becomes visible1 and as she draws nearer1 we learn that she is bearing the mails and passengers to our ship4 ,at last she is close beside us1 and when made fast1 the transfer takes place4 ,now is the time for the camera or sketch book1 for many typical ,irish characters come aboard our vessel1 with strange1 half-frightened faces1 and their worldly belongings carried on their backs1 or clutched tightly in their hands4 ,among the group ,i notice a middle-aged woman with a young pig nestling peacefully under her arm4 ,whether it is a pet1 or simply a piece of live stock to begin housekeeping with in the new country1 ,i cannot say1 but with a contented expression on both faces1 ,bridget and her pig disappear into the special quarters which are reserved for the emigrants4 ,this whole scene is very interesting4 ,the old-fashioned black glazed oilcloth bag and trunk play a conspicuous part in the picture1 and here and there are seen bundles tied in red bandanna handkerchiefs and carried on the end of a stick1 which is slung over the shoulder1 while the corduroy knee breeches1 woollen stockings1 heavy shoes and pea-jackets with caps to match give us a fine representation of the ,irishman on his native heath4 ,several small boats are floating at our side3 from one of these a rope is thrown to a sailor on our deck1 and a bright and comely ,irish girl climbs nimbly up1 hand over hand1 and stands among the cabin passengers4 ,with quick1 deft movements she pulls up a basket filled with ,irish knickknacks1 such as pipes1 crosses1 pigs1 spoons and forks made of bog-wood2 these1 with knit shawls and similar articles1 she displays on deck1 and it would be difficult to find a prettier1 wittier1 more attractive specimen of old ,ireland's lasses than this4 ,by means of her ready tongue she disposes of all her wares1 and when the whistle warns all hands to leave the deck1 she glides gracefully down the rope1 and settling herself in her little boat1 pulls for the shore4 ,illustration3 ,several small boats are floating at our side4 7,see page #ced47 ,this is our last stop until we reach ,new ,york4 ,the anchor is pulled up1 and away we go steaming on our homeward voyage4 ,the little steam tug runs along beside us for a time1 then the whistles of both vessels blow a farewell to each other1 and our little comrade gradually fades from our sight4 ,suddenly a heavy fog comes up1 and the incessant blowing of the fog-horn is a tiresome sound3 but the wind follows up the mist and scatters it far and wide1 and now we have the boundless prospect of the ocean before us4 ,strongly it bears us along in smiling and limitless billows1 ,nothing before and nothing behind but the sky and the ocean4 ,as we gaze upon it day after day1 its beauty and grandeur grow upon us more and more4 ,i can think of no better words than those of ,childe ,harold which so beautifully express the thoughts the scene inspires4 ,roll on1 thou deep and dark blue ocean1 roll4 ,ten thousand fleets sweep over thee in vain2 ,man marks the earth with ruin--his control ,stops with the shore2 upon the watery plain ,the wrecks are all thy deeds1 nor doth remain ,a shadow of man's ravage1 save his own1 ,when1 for a moment1 like a drop of rain1 ,he sinks into thy depths with bubbling groan1 ,without a grave1 unknelled1 uncoffined and unknown4 ,then1 as if by magic1 the huge waves lessen in their angry murmurs1 the surface becomes quiet and calm2 evening creeps on1 and the glow from a descending sun illuminates the scene4 ,as ,i look upon this beautiful and restful picture1 ,i think how true the words3 ,beyond is all abyss1 ,eternity1 whose end no eye can reach4 ,the reading of this book has no doubt been a pleasure and a profit to you4 ,then why not recommend it to your friends8 ,you will find cards on the inside of the back cover to assist you4 ,illustration3 ,beyond is all abyss1 ,eternity1 whose end no eye can reach4 7,see page #ceh47 ,,by ,,the ,,author ,,of ,,odd ,,bits ,british ,isles through an ,opera ,glass ,by ,,charles ,m4 ,,taylor1 ,jr4 ,author of ,vacation ,days in ,hawaii and ,japan4 ,with #dh full-page illustrations1 principally from photographs4 ,crown #hvo1 about #cej pages1 deckle edge paper1 cloth jacket1 in box1 #b4jj4 ,what is said of ,the ,british ,isles ,mr4 ,taylor has the knack of making the story of his journeyings entertaining to the public4 ,the usual descriptions of time-worn scenes give place to charming personal narrative1 and a wealth of incident and episode gives to the book an exceptional interest4 ,the fine half-tones of ,english scenes liberally scattered through the work greatly enhance its charm4--,the ,philadelphia ,call4 ,it is a record of a pleasant tour by the less frequented paths of travel1 not only in ,england1 but in ,scotland and ,ireland4 ,the author takes little from the guide books and their familiar histories1 but notes many interesting details that attracted his own attention4 ,furthermore he has illustrated his book with a large number of photographs1 both of places and people1 that are quite out of the common run1 and the pictures alone would suffice to give the volume distinction4--,the ,philadelphia ,times4 ,the book is all the eye could wish1 and as we turn the pages quickly from one to another of the forty-eight beautiful photographic illustrations a veritable panorama passes before us4 ,the author is enthusiastic over what he saw in the ,british ,isles1 and he is evidently desirous of sharing his pleasure with those who have not been privileged to see for themselves4--,the ,philadelphia ,american4 ,it is a luxurious volume that records the interesting travels of one who knows how to pen vivid word pictures of places where those who love travel would like to be4--,the ,bookseller4 ,mr4 ,taylor traveled through the ,british ,isles with an observing eye1 a ready note-book1 and a camera which he used with discreet intelligence4 ,the narrative is brightly written and abounds in anecdote1 while the personal point of view is ever present and adds a touch of piquancy4 ,the volume is beautifully made1 and the photographs1 about fifty in number1 are particularly well reproduced in half-tones--,the ,philadelphia ,press4 ,for sale by all booksellers1 or sent post-paid upon receipt of the price by the publishers ,,george ,w4 ,,jacobs ,,co4 #ajc-aje ,south ,fifteenth ,street ,philadelphia1 ,pa4 ,,by ,,the ,,author ,,of ,,odd ,,bits ,vacation ,days in ,hawaii and ,japan ,by ,,charles ,m4 ,,taylor1 ,jr4 ,with over #ajj half-tone illustrations1 principally from photographs4 ,crown #hvo4 #cfa pages1 gilt top1 uncut edges4 ,with unique cover design4 ,price1 #b4jj4 ,what is said of ,vacation ,days ,mr4 ,taylor is a keen observer1 who penetrated beyond the beaten track of the usual tourist1 and his sketches of ,home ,life1 ,natural ,beauties and ,every-day scenes1 have individuality and charm4--,literary ,news4 ,the narrative is written in a clear1 easy style1 with an aptitude for giving just that kind of information concerning everyday life which people miss too often in books of travel4--,philadelphia ,press4 ,a very interesting feature of the book is the numerous pictures from photographs taken by the author of ,japanese people1 men1 women and children1 engaged at their ordinary vocations1 also pictures of ,japanese scenery1 shops1 living rooms and temples4 ,these illustrations are remarkable for their realism4--,indianapolis ,journal4 ,the book recounts the incidents of a recent tour through ,hawaii and ,japan4 ,the special value of the narrative is that it covers points of interest in these specially interesting countries not usually recorded in the guide books and ordinary books of travel4---,the ,philadelphia ,call4 ,a four months' trip through ,hawaii and ,japan is narrated in this compact and entertaining volume4 ,mr4 ,taylor applies systematic methods to his sight-seeing4 ,he is an appreciative observer as well4 ,he was not content with well beaten paths and hence his record is clear1 picturesque and fresh4--,the ,philadelphia ,ledger4 ,two conspicuous merits this capital travel book has over the average in its class2 it describes new grounds and scenes1 and the narrative ripples along with the ease and liveliness of a brook4 ,without professing to be specially instructive1 ,mr4 ,taylor conveys a great amount of information such as we all enjoy when told in this pleasant way1 blending the matter of fact with the entertaining4--,the ,philadelphia ,american4 ,for sale by all booksellers1 or sent post-paid upon receipt of the price by the publishers ,,george ,w4 ,,jacobs ,,co4 #ajc-aje ,south ,fifteenth ,street ,philadelphia1 ,pa4