,transcriber's note3 ,the following typographical errors have been corrected3 ,page #ge3 ,it was to this charming valley that ,walter ,scott came1 with his young wife1 in the first year of their wedded life4 'to' amended from 'to to'4 ,page #ajh3 ,we believe that many changes in the conditions of life and labour are needed1 and are coming to pass 444 'needed' amended from 'neeeded'4 ,page #aad3 ,at sight of this group of buildings one almost expects to catch a glimpse of the well-meaning but not over-wise ,mrs4 ,thornburgh 444 'buildings' amended from 'buidings'4 ,page #bdi3 444 everything that makes us see across our poor lives a splendid goal and a boundless future1 comes to us from people of simplicity1 those who have made another object of their desires than the passing satisfaction and vanity 444 'splendid' amended from 'spendid'4 ,by ,charles ,s4 ,olcott ,,the ,,lure ,,of ,,the ,,camera4 ,illustrated4 ,,the ,,country ,,of ,,sir ,,walter ,,scott4 ,illustrated4 ,,houghton ,,mifflin ,,company ,,boston ,,and ,,new ,,york ,,the ,,lure ,,of ,,the ,,camera ,illustration3 ,,the ,,stepping ,,stones ,,the ,,lure ,,of ,,the ,,camera ,,by ,,charles ,s4 ,,olcott ,author of ,george ,eliot3 ,scenes and ,people of her ,novels and ,the ,country of ,sir ,walter ,scott ,,illustrated ,,from ,,photographs ,,by ,,the ,,author ,illustration ,,boston ,,and ,,new ,,york ,,houghton ,,mifflin ,,company ,the ,riverside ,press ,cambridge #aiad ,,copyright1 #aiad1 ,,by ,,charles ,s4 ,,olcott ,,all ,,rights ,,reserved ,published ,september #aiad ,,to ,,my ,,boys ,,gage1 ,,charles1 ,,and ,,howard ,,this ,,book ,,is ,,affectionately ,,dedicated ,,preface ,the difference between a ramble and a journey is about the same as that between pleasure and business4 ,when you go anywhere for a serious purpose1 you make a journey2 but if you go for pleasure 7and don't take the pleasure too seriously1 as many do7 you only ramble4 ,the sketches in this volume1 which takes its name from the first chapter1 are based upon rambles1 which were for the most part merely incidental excursions1 made possible by various journeys undertaken for more serious purposes4 ,it has been the practice of the author for many years to carry a camera on his travels1 so that1 if chance should take him within easy distance of some place of literary1 historic1 or scenic interest1 he might not miss the opportunity to pursue his favorite avocation4 ,if the reader is asked to make long flights1 as from ,scotland to ,italy1 then back1 across the ,atlantic1 to ,new ,england1 and thence overland to ,wyoming and ,arizona1 he must remember that ramblers take no account of distance or direction4 ,in this case they must take no account of time1 for these rambles are but the chance happenings that have occurred at intervals in a period of more than a dozen years4 ,people who are in a hurry1 and those who in traveling seek to do the largest number of places in the shortest number of days1 are advised not to travel with an amateur photographer4 ,not only must he have leisure to find and study his subjects1 but he is likely to wander away from the well-worn paths and use up his time in making inquiries1 in a fashion quite exasperating to the tourist absorbed in his itinerary4 ,the rambles here chronicled could not possibly be organized into an itinerary or moulded into a guidebook4 ,the author simply invites those who have inclinations similar to his own1 to wander with him1 away from the customary paths of travel1 and into the homes of certain distinguished authors or the scenes of their writings1 and to visit with him various places of historic interest or natural beauty1 without a thought of maps1 distances1 time-tables1 or the toil and dust of travel4 ,this is the real essence of rambling4 ,the chapter on ,the ,country of ,mrs4 ,humphry ,ward was published originally in ,the ,outlook in #aiji1 and ,a ,day in ,wordsworth's ,country1 in the same magazine in #aiaj4 ,,contents ,i4 ,,the ,,lure ,,of ,,the ,,camera #a ,,ii4 ,,literary ,,rambles ,,in ,,great ,,britain #ae ,english ,courtesy--,the ,george ,eliot ,country--,experiences in ,rural ,england4 ,overcoming ,obstacles--,a ,london ,bobby--,carlyle's ,birthplace--,the ,country of ,scott and ,burns ,,iii4 ,a ,,day ,,in ,,wordsworth',s ,,country #di ,,iv4 ,,from ,,hawthornden ,,to ,,roslin ,,glen #gc ,v4 ,,the ,,country ,,of ,,mrs4 ,,humphry ,,ward #ic ,i4 ,,mrs4 ,,ward ,,and ,,her ,,work #ie ,,ii4 ,,the ,,real ,,robert ,,elsmere #aaj ,,iii4 ,,other ,,people ,,and ,,scenery #abh ,,vi4 ,a ,,tour ,,of ,,the ,,italian ,,lakes #adg ,,vii4 ,,literary ,,landmarks ,,of ,,new ,,england #age ,i4 ,,concord #agi ,,ii4 ,,salem #aif ,,iii4 ,,portsmouth #bjg ,,iv4 ,,the ,,isles ,,of ,,shoals #bbb ,,viii4 ,a ,,day ,,with ,,john ,,burroughs #bcc ,,ix4 ,,glimpses ,,of ,,the ,,yellowstone #bea ,x4 ,,the ,,grand ,,canon ,,of ,,arizona #bga ,,index #big ,,illustrations ,,the ,,stepping ,,stones ,frontispiece ,on the ,river ,rothay1 near ,ambleside1 ,england1 and below ,fox ,how1 the home of ,thomas ,arnold of ,rugby1 grandfather of ,mrs4 ,humphry ,ward4 ,one of the scenes in ,robert ,elsmere was suggested by these stones4 ,a ,,path ,,in ,,bretton ,,woods #aj ,white ,mountains1 ,n4,h4 ,,profile ,,lake #ab ,showing the ,old ,man of the ,mountains4 ,in the ,franconia ,notch1 ,white ,mountains1 ,n4,h4 ,the profile suggested to ,hawthorne the tale of ,the ,great ,stone ,face4 ,,the ,,grand ,,saloon1 ,,arbury ,,hall #bb ,near ,nuneaton1 ,england4 ,the original of ,cheverel ,manor1 in ,george ,eliot's ,mr4 ,gilfil's ,love ,story4 ,a ,,school ,,in ,,nuneaton #cj ,where ,george ,eliot attended school in her eighth or ninth year4 ,,the ,,bromley-,,davenport ,,arms #cd ,in ,ellastone1 ,england1 the original of the ,donnithorne ,arms of ,adam ,bede4 ,,the ,,birthplace ,,of ,,robert ,,burns #dj ,in ,ayrshire1 ,scotland4 ,the poet was born here ,january #be1 #agei4 ,the left of the building is the cottage of two rooms where the family lived4 ,adjoining1 on the right1 is the byre1 or cow-house4 ,,the ,,burns ,,monument1 ,,ayrshire #dd ,the monument was built in #ahbj4 ,it is sixty feet high1 and almost an exact duplicate of the monument in ,edinburgh4 ,,the ,,brig ,o' ,,doon1 ,,ayrshire #dh ,the bridge over which ,tam o' ,shanter rode to escape the witches4 ,,grasmere ,,lake #fj ,for rest of body perfect was the spot4 ,,dove ,,cottage1 ,,grasmere #fd ,wordsworth's home for eight years4 ,the view is from the garden in the rear of the cottage4 ,,wordsworth',s ,,well #fh ,in the garden of ,dove ,cottage1 where the poet placed bright gowan and marsh marigold brought from the border of the lake4 ,,hawthornden #gf ,the home of the ,drummond family1 on the banks of the ,esk1 ,scotland4 ,,the ,,sycamore #hj ,the tree at ,hawthornden under which ,william ,drummond met ,ben ,jonson4 ,,ruins ,,of ,,roslin ,,castle #hf ,in ,roslin ,glen overlooking the ,esk4 ,,mrs4 ,,humphry ,,ward ,,and ,,miss ,,dorothy ,,ward #if ,at the villa in ,cadenabbia1 overlooking ,lake ,como1 where ,mrs4 ,ward wrote ,lady ,rose's ,daughter4 ,,under ,,loughrigg #ajj ,the view from the study window of ,thomas ,arnold at ,fox ,how4 ,,the ,,passmore ,,edwards ,,settlement ,,house #ajd ,tavistock ,place1 ,london4 ,,the ,,lime ,,walk #aaj ,in the garden of ,trinity ,college1 ,oxford4 ,referred to in ,robert ,elsmere4 ,,cottage ,,of ,,mary ,,backhouse #aad ,at ,sad ,gill1 ,long ,sleddale4 ,the barns and storehouses1 on either end1 give the small cottage an attenuated appearance4 ,,the ,,rectory ,,of ,,peper ,,harow #aah ,in ,surrey1 ,england4 ,the original of ,murewell ,rectory1 the house of ,robert ,elsmere4 ,,the ,,rothay ,,and ,,nab ,,scar #acj ,from ,pelter ,bridge1 ,ambleside1 ,england4 ,,lake ,,como #ach ,from the path that led to the woods overhanging the ,villa ,carlotta4 ,,stocks #add ,the home of ,mrs4 ,humphry ,ward1 near ,tring1 ,england4 ,,lake ,,maggiore1 ,,italy #aej ,according to ,ruskin the most beautiful of the ,italian ,lakes4 ,,isola ,,bella1 ,,lake ,,maggiore #aed ,the costly summer home of ,count ,vitaliano ,borromeo in the ,seventeenth ,century4 ,,the ,,atrium ,,of ,,the ,,villa ,,maria #agj ,at ,cadenabbia1 ,lake ,como4 ,i ,,call ,,this ,,my ,j4 ,m4 ,w4 ,,turner #agd ,view from the dining-room window of the ,villa ,maria4 ,,the ,,old ,,manse #ahj ,in ,concord1 where ,emerson wrote ,nature and ,hawthorne lived for three years4 ,,walden ,,woods #ahd ,the cairn marks the site of ,thoreau's hut and ,thoreau's ,cove is seen in the distance4 ,,house ,,of ,,ralph ,,waldo ,,emerson #aij ,concord1 ,massachusetts4 ,,the ,,wayside #aid ,house in ,concord1 where ,hawthorne lived in the latest years of his life4 ,,the ,,mall ,,street ,,house #bjj ,salem1 ,mass4 ,the room in which ,hawthorne wrote ,the ,scarlet ,letter is in the third floor1 front1 on the left4 ,,the ,,house ,,of ,,the ,,seven ,,gables #bjd ,the house in ,turner ,street1 ,salem1 ,mass41 built in #affi1 and owned by the ,ingersoll family4 ,,the ,,bailey ,,house #bjh ,the house in ,portsmouth1 ,new ,hampshire1 of ,thomas ,bailey ,aldrich's grandfather1 known as ,captain ,nutter in ,the ,story of a ,bad ,boy4 ,,aunt ,,abigail',s ,,room #bab ,in the ,nutter ,house4 ,,an ,,old ,,wharf #baf ,on the ,piscataqua ,river1 ,portsmouth1 where ,aldrich often played in his boyhood4 ,,celia ,,thaxter',s ,,cottage #bbd ,on ,appledore1 where the poet maintained her famous ,island ,garden4 ,,appledore #bcb ,trap-dike1 on ,appledore1 the largest of the ,isles of ,shoals4 ,,john ,,burroughs ,,at ,,woodchuck ,,lodge #bch ,the summer home of ,mr4 ,burroughs is near ,roxbury1 ,new ,york1 in the ,catskill ,mountains4 ,when not at work he enjoys the peace of the hills4 ,,john ,,burroughs ,,at ,,work #bdd ,the study is a barn1 where the naturalist sits facing the open doors4 ,he looks out upon a stone wall where the birds and small animals come to talk with him4 ,the desk is an old hen-coop1 with straw in the bottom1 to keep his feet warm4 ,,hymen ,,terrace #bed ,at ,mammoth ,hot ,springs in the ,yellowstone ,national ,park4 ,,pulpit ,,terrace #beh ,a part of ,jupiter ,terrace1 the largest of the formations at ,mammoth ,hot ,springs4 ,,old ,,faithful #bfd ,the famous geyser in the ,upper ,geyser ,basin of the ,yellowstone ,national ,park4 ,it plays a stream about one hundred and fifty feet high every sixty-five minutes1 with but slight variations4 ,,the ,,grotto ,,geyser #bff ,a geyser in the ,yellowstone ,national ,park notable for its fantastic crater4 ,,the ,,canon ,,of ,,the ,,yellowstone ,,river #bfh ,the view from ,inspiration ,point4 ,,the ,,trail1 ,,grand ,,canon #bgh ,the view shows the upper part of ,bright ,angels' ,trail1 as it appears when the ground is covered with snow4 ,,the ,,grand ,,canon ,,of ,,arizona #bij ,the view from ,bright ,angels'4 ,the plateau over which the trail leads to the edge of the river is partly covered by a deep shadow4 ,the great formation in the left foreground is known as the ,battleship4 ,i ,,the ,,lure ,,of ,,the ,,camera ,,the ,,lure ,,of ,,the ,,camera ,i ,two pictures1 each about the size of a large postage-stamp1 are among my treasured possessions4 ,in the first1 a curly-headed boy of two1 in a white dress1 is vigorously kicking a football4 ,the second depicts a human wheelbarrow1 the body composed of a sturdy lad of seven1 whose two plump arms serve admirably the purpose of a wheel1 his stout legs making an excellent pair of handles1 while the motive power is supplied by an equally robust lad of eight1 who grasps his younger brother firmly by the ankles4 ,these two photographs1 taken with a camera so small that in operation it was completely concealed between the palms of my hands1 revealed to me for the first time the fascination of amateur photography4 ,the discovery meant that whatever interested me1 even if no more than the antics of my children1 might be instantly recorded4 ,i had no idea of artistic composition1 nor of the proper manipulation of plates1 films1 and printing papers4 ,still less did ,i foresee that the tiny little black box contained the germ of an indefinable impulse1 which1 expanding and growing more powerful year by year1 was to lead me into fields which ,i had never dreamed of exploring1 into habits of observation never before a part of my nature1 and into a knowledge of countless places of historic and literary interest as well as natural beauty and grandeur1 which would never have been mine but for the lure of the camera4 ,the spell began to make itself felt almost immediately4 ,i determined to buy a camera of my own1--for the two infinitesimal pictures were taken with a borrowed instrument1--and was soon the possessor of a much larger black box capable of making pictures three and a quarter inches square4 ,the film which came with it was quickly shot off1 and then came the impulse to go somewhere4 ,my wife and ,i decided to spend a day at a pretty little inland lake1 a few hours' ride from our home4 ,i hastened to the druggist's to buy another film1 and without waiting to insert it in the camera1 off we started4 ,arrived on the scene1 our first duty was to load the new machine4 ,the roll puzzled us a little4 ,somehow the directions did not seem to fit4 ,but we got it in place finally and began to enjoy the pleasures of photography4 ,our first view was a general survey of the lake1 which is nearly twelve miles long1 with many bays and indentations in the shore-line1 making a rather large subject for a picture only three and a quarter inches square4 ,but such difficulties did not seem formidable4 ,the directions clearly intimated that if we would only press the button somebody would do the rest1 and we expected the intangible somebody to perform his part of the contract as faithfully as we were doing ours4 ,years afterward1 chancing to pass by the ,british ,museum1 which stretches its huge bulk through ,great ,russell ,street a distance of nearly four hundred feet1 we saw a little girl taking its picture with a ,brownie camera4 ,that reminds me of ',dignity and ,impudence1' said my wife1 referring to ,landseer's well-known painting which we had seen at the ,national ,gallery that afternoon4 ,this is the mistake which all amateurs make at first--that of expecting the little instrument to perform impossible feats4 ,but to resume my story4 ,we spent a remarkably pleasant day composing beautiful views4 ,we shot at the bays and the rocks1 at the steamers and the sail-boats and at everything else in sight except the huge ice-houses which disfigure what would otherwise be one of the prettiest lakes in ,america4 ,we posed for each other in picturesque attitudes on the rocks and in a little rowboat which we had hired4 ,we had a delightful outing and only regretted when1 all too soon1 the last film was exposed4 ,but we felt unusually happy to think that we had a wonderful record of the day's proceedings to show to our family and friends4 ,that night ,i developed the roll1 laboriously cutting off one exposure at a time1 and putting it through the developer according to directions4 ,number one was blank6 ,something wrong with the shutter1 ,i thought1 and tried the next4 ,number two was also blank66 ,what can this mean8 ,perhaps ,i haven't developed it long enough4 ,so into the fluid went another one1 and this one stayed a long time4 ,to my dismay number three was as vacant as the others1 and so were all the rest of the twelve4 ,early the next morning ,i was at the drug store demanding an explanation4 ,the druggist confessed that the film-roll he had sold me was intended for another camera1 but ,it ought to have worked on yours1 he said4 ,subsequent investigation proved that on my camera the film was to be inserted on the left1 while on the other kind it went in on the right4 ,this difference seemed insignificant until ,i discovered that in turning the roll to insert it on the opposite side from what was intended1 ,i had brought the strip of black paper to the front of the film1 thus preventing any exposure at all6 ,thus ,i learned the first principle of amateur photography3--,know exactly what you are doing and take no chances with your apparatus4 ,a young lady1 to whom ,i once attempted to explain the use of the various stops on her camera1 impatiently interrupted me with the remark1 ,well1 that's the way it was set when ,i got it and ,i'm not going to bother to change it4 ,if the pictures are no good1 ,i'll send it back4 ,it is such people who continually complain of bad luck with their films4 ,it was two or three years after the complete failure of my first expedition before the camera again exerted its spell1 except that meanwhile it was faithfully recording various performances of the family1 especially in the vacation season4 ,it was in the autumn of #ahih4 ,the victorious ,american fleet had returned from ,santiago and all the famous battleships and cruisers were triumphantly floating their ensigns in the breezes of ,new ,york ,harbor4 ,here is a rare opportunity4 ,come6 said the camera4 ,taking passage on a steamer1 ,i found a quiet spot by the lifeboats1 outside the rail1 where the view would be unobstructed4 ,we passed in succession all the vessels1 from the doughty ,texas1 commanded by the lamented ,captain ,philip1 to the proud ,oregon1 with the laurels of her long cruise around ,cape ,horn to join in the fight4 ,one by one ,i photographed them all4 ,here1 at last1 ,i thought1 are some pictures worth while4 ,i had been in the habit of doing my own developing--with indifferent success1 it must be confessed4 ,these exposures1 made under ideal conditions1 were too precious to be risked1 so ,i took the roll to a prominent firm of dealers in photographic goods1 for developing and printing4 ,every one was spoiled6 ,not a good print could be found in the lot4 ,impure chemicals and careless handling had left yellow spots and finger-marks on every negative6 ,subsequent investigation revealed the fact that a negro janitor had been entrusted with the work4 ,here1 then1 was maxim number two for the amateur--,do your own developing1 and be sure to master the details of the operation4 ,the old adage1 ,if you want a thing well done1 do it yourself1 applies with peculiar force to photography4 ,another experience1 which happened soon after1 came near ending forever all further attempts in photography4 ,this time ,i lost1 not only the negatives1 but the camera itself4 ,having accomplished very little1 ,i resolved to try no more4 ,but a year or two later a friend offered to sell me his #d x #e plate camera1 with tripod1 focusing-cloth and all1 at a ridiculously low price1 and enough of the old fever remained to make me an easy--victim1 shall ,i say8 ,no6 ,how can ,i ever thank him enough8 ,i put my head under the focusing-cloth and for the first time looked at the inverted image of a beautiful landscape1 reflected in all its colors upon the ground glass4 ,at that moment began my real experience in photography4 ,the hand camera is only a toy4 ,a child can use it as well as an expert4 ,it has its limitations like the stone walls of a prison yard1 and beyond them one cannot go4 ,all is guesswork4 ,luck is the biggest factor of success4 ,artistic work is practically impossible4 ,it is not until you begin to compose your pictures on the ground glass that art in photography becomes a real thing4 ,then it is amazing to see how many variations of the same scene may be obtained1 how many different effects of light and shade1 and how much depends upon the point of view4 ,then1 too1 one becomes more independent of the weather1 for by a proper use of the stop and careful application of the principles of correct exposure1 it is possible to overcome many adverse conditions4 ,an acquaintance once expressed surprise that ,i was willing to spend day after day of my vacation walking about with a heavy camera case1 full of plate-holders in one hand1 and a bulky tripod slung over my shoulder4 ,i replied that it was no heavier than a bagful of golf-sticks1 that the walk took me through an endless variety of beautiful scenery1 and that the game itself was fascinating4 ,of course1 my friend could not appreciate my point of view1 for he had never paused on the shore of some sparkling lake to study the ripple of the waters1 the varying shades of green in the trees of the nearest bank1 the pebbly beach with smooth flat stones whitening in the sun1 but looking cooler and darker where seen through the transparent cover of the shallow water1 the deep purple of the undulating hills in the distance1 and above it all the canopy of filmy1 foamy cumulus clouds1 with flat bases and rounded outlines1 and here and there a glimpse of the loveliest cerulean blue4 ,he had never looked upon such scenes as these with the exhilarating thought that something of the marvelous beauty which nature daily spreads before us can be captured and taken home as a permanent reminder of what we have seen4 ,to catch the charm of such a scene is no child's play4 ,it requires the use of the best of lenses and other appliances1 skill derivable only from long study and experience1 and a natural appreciation of the artistic point of view4 ,it requires even more1 for the plate must be developed and the prints made1 both operations calling for skill and a sense of the artistic4 ,the underlying pleasure in nearly all sports and in many forms of recreation is the overcoming of obstacles4 ,the football team must defeat a heavy opposing force to gain any sense of satisfaction4 ,if the opponents are easy1 there is no fun in the game4 ,the hunter who incurs no hardship complains that the sport is tame4 ,a fisherman would rather land one big black bass after a long struggle than catch a hundred perch which almost jump into your boat without an invitation4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,path ,,in ,,bretton ,,woods ,photography as a sport possesses this element in perfection4 ,those who love danger may find plenty of it in taking snap-shots of charging rhinoceroses1 or flash-light pictures of lions and tigers in the jungle4 ,those who like hunting may find more genuine enjoyment in stalking deer for the purpose of taking the animal's picture than they would get if they took his life4 ,those who care only to hunt landscapes--and in this class ,i include myself--can find all the sport they want in the less strenuous pursuit4 ,there is not only the exhilaration of searching out the attractive scenes1--the rugged mountain-peak2 the woodland brook2 the shady lane1 with perhaps a border of white birches2 the ruined castle2 the seaside cliffs2 the well-concealed cascade2 or the scene of some noteworthy historical event1--but the art of photography itself presents its own problems at every turn4 ,to solve all these2 to select the right point of view2 to secure an artistic balance in all parts of the picture2 to avoid the ugly things that sometimes persist in getting in the way2 to make due allowance for the effect of wind or motion2 to catch the full beauty of the drifting clouds2 to obtain the desired transparency in the shadows1--these and a hundred other considerations give sufficient exercise to the most alert mind and add to the never-ending fascination of the game4 ,i have noticed that the camera does not lure one into the beaten tracks which tourists most frequent4 ,it is helpless on the top of a crowded coach or in a swiftly flying motor-car4 ,it gets nervous when too many people are around1 especially if they are in a hurry1 and fails to do its work4 ,it must be allowed to choose its own paths and to proceed with leisure and calmness4 ,it is a charming guide to follow4 ,i have always felt a sense of relief when able to escape the interminable jargon of the professional guides who conduct tourists through the various show places of ,europe1 and so far as it has been my fortune to visit such places1 have usually left with a vague feeling of disappointment4 ,on the other hand1 when1 acting under the spell of the camera1 ,i have sought an acquaintance with the owner of some famous house and have proceeded at leisure to photograph the rooms and objects of interest1 ,i have left not only with a sense of complete satisfaction1 but with a new friendship to add to the pleasure of future memories4 ,illustration3 ,,profile ,,lake ,to visit the places made famous by their associations with literature and with history2 to seek the wonders of nature1 whether sublime and awe-inspiring1 like the mountain-peaks of ,switzerland and the vast depths of the ,grand ,canon1 or restful in their sweet simplicity like the quiet hills and valleys of ,westmoreland2 to see the people in their homes1 whether stately palaces or humble cottages2 to find new beauty daily1 whether at home or abroad1 in the shady woodland path1 in the sweep of the hills and the ever-changing panorama of the clouds2 to gain that relief from the cares of business or professional life which comes from opening the mind to a free and full contemplation of the picturesque and beautiful1--these are the possibilities offered by amateur photography to those who will follow the lure of the camera4 ,,ii ,,literary ,,rambles ,,in ,,great ,,britain ,,ii ,,literary ,,rambles ,,in ,,great ,,britain ,i ,emerson said of the ,english people1 ,every one of these islanders is an island himself1 safe1 tranquil1 incommunicable1 and that ,it is almost an affront to look a man in the face without being introduced4 ,holmes1 on the contrary1 records that he and his daughter were received with nothing but the most overflowing hospitality and the most considerate kindness4 ,lowell found the average ,briton likely to regard himself as the only real thing in a wilderness of shams1 and thought his patronage divertingly insufferable4 ,on the other hand1 he praised the genuineness of the better men of ,england1 as so manly-tender1 so brave1 so true1 so warranted to wear1 they make us proud to feel that blood is thicker than water4 ,longfellow met at dinner on two successive days what he called the two opposite poles of ,english character4 ,one of them was taciturn1 reserved1 fastidious and without power of enjoyment2 the other was expansive1 hilarious1 talking incessantly1 laughing loud and long4 ,all of this suggests that in attempting to write one's impressions of the ,english or any other people1 one must remember1 what ,i once heard a ,western schoolmaster declare with great emphasis--some people are not all alike6 ,i have but one impression to record1 namely1 that1 almost without exception1 the people whom we met1 both in ,england and ,scotland1 manifested a spirit of helpfulness that made our photographic work delightful and led to the accomplishment of results not otherwise obtainable4 ,they not only showed an unexpected interest in our work1 but seemed to feel some sense of obligation to assist4 ,this was true even of the policeman at the gate of the ,tower of ,london1 who1 according to his orders1 deprived me of my camera before ,i could enter4 ,but upon my protesting1 he referred me to another guardian of the place1 and he to another1 until1 continuing to pass higher up1 ,i was at last photographing everything of interest1 including the ,beef-,eater who obligingly carried my case of plates4 ,whenever difficulties arose1 these helpful people always seemed ready with suggestions4 ,it seemed to be more than courtesy4 ,it was rather a friendly sympathy1 a desire that ,i might have what ,i came for1 and a kind of personal anxiety that ,i should not be disappointed4 ,an incident which happened at the very outset of our photographic experiences in ,england1 and one which was responsible in large measure for much of the success of that undertaking1 will serve as an example of the genial and sympathetic spirit which seemed to be everywhere prevalent4 ,we had started to discover and to photograph1 so far as possible1 the scenes of ,george ,eliot's writings1 and on the day of our arrival in ,london1 my wife had found in the ,british ,museum a particularly interesting portrait of ,george ,henry ,lewes4 ,she learned that permission to copy it must be obtained from the ,keeper of the ,prints1 and accordingly1 on the following morning ,i appeared in the great room of the ,museum where thousands of rare prints are carefully preserved4 ,sir ,sidney ,colvin1 the distinguished biographer of ,robert ,louis ,stevenson1 and the head of this department1 was not in1 but a polite assistant made note of my name and message1 making at the same time an appointment for the next day4 ,at the precise hour named ,i was present again1 revolving in my mind the briefest possible method of requesting permission to copy the ,lewes picture4 ,presently ,i was informed that ,mr4 ,colvin wished to see me1 and ,i followed the guide1 mechanically repeating to myself the little formula or speech ,i intended to make1 and wondering what luck ,i should have4 ,the formula disappeared instantly as a pleasant-faced gentleman advanced with outstretched hand and genial smile1 calling me by name and saying1 ,i have something ,i want to show you1 if you would care to see it4 ,considerably surprised1 ,i saw him touch a button as he resumed1--,it's a picture of ,george ,eliot1--at least we think it is1 but we are not sure1--we bought it from the executor of the estate of ,sir ,frederic ,burton1 the artist4 ,here the attendant appeared and was instructed to get the portrait4 ,it proved to be a large painting in water-colors of a woman's face1 with remarkably strong1 almost masculine features and a pair of eyes that seemed to say1 ,if any woman in the world can do a man's thinking1 ,i'm that person4 ,a letter received subsequently1 in answer to my inquiry1 from ,sir ,theodore ,martin1 who was a lifelong friend of the novelist as well as the painter1 definitely established the fact that the newly discovered portrait was a study for the authorized portrait which ,sir ,frederic ,burton painted4 ,no doubt the artist came to realize more of the true womanliness of ,george ,eliot's character1 for he certainly softened the expression of those determined-looking eyes4 ,after we had discussed the picture at some length1 my new-found friend inquired about my plans4 ,i told him ,i meant to visit1 so far as possible1 the scenes of ,george ,eliot's novels and to photograph all the various places of interest4 ,of course you'll go to ,nuneaton8 he asked4 ,yes1 ,i replied1 in a tone of assurance2 ,i expect to visit ,arbury ,hall1 the original of ,cheverel ,manor4 ,i suppose1 then1 you are acquainted with ,mr4 ,newdegate1 said he1 inquiringly4 ,i had to confess that ,i did not know the gentleman4 ,mr4 ,colvin looked at me in surprise4 ,why1 you can't get in if you don't know him4 ,arbury is a private estate4 ,this remark struck me with stunning force4 ,i had supposed ,i could go anywhere4 ,the game was a new one to me1 and here at the very beginning appeared to be an insurmountable barrier4 ,of course1 ,i could not expect to walk into private houses and grounds to make photographs1 and how was ,i to make the acquaintance of these people8 ,mr4 ,colvin seemed to read my thought and promptly solved the problem4 ,i happen to know ,mr4 ,newdegate well4 ,he was a classmate at ,oxford4 ,i'll give you a letter of introduction4--,no1 ,i'll do better4 ,i'll write and tell him you're coming4 ,this courtesy1 from a gentleman to whom ,i was a complete stranger1 was as welcome as it was unexpected1 and nearly caused me to forget the original purpose of my call4 ,but ,mr4 ,colvin did not forget4 ,as ,i was about to leave1 he asked if ,i wished a copy of the ,eliot portrait and added1 ,of course1 you will have permission to copy the ,lewes picture2 and the interview ended with his promise to have the official photographer make me copies of both4 ,i returned to the hotel to report that the ,lewes picture had been obtained without even asking for it1 and the next morning received a message from the owner of ,arbury ,hall cordially inviting us to visit him4 ,of ,arbury itself ,i knew little1 but ,i had read1 somewhere1 that the full-length portraits of ,sir ,christopher ,cheverel and his lady by ,sir ,joshua ,reynolds1 which ,george ,eliot describes as hanging side by side in the great saloon of ,cheverel ,manor1 might still be seen at ,arbury4 ,i was1 therefore1 eager to find them4 ,we lost no time in proceeding to ,nuneaton1 where we passed the night at the veritable tavern which was the scene of ,lawyer ,dempster's conviviality4 ,readers of ,janet's ,repentance will recall that the great man of deeds addressed the mob in the street from an upper window of the ,red ,lion1 protesting against the temptation to vice involved in the proposition to hold ,sunday evening lectures in the church4 ,he brought the meeting to a close by calling for ,three cheers for ,true ,religion2 then retiring with a party of friends to the parlor of the inn1 he caused the most capacious punch-bowl to be brought out and continued the festivities until after midnight1 when several friends of sound religion were conveyed home with some difficulty1 one of them showing a dogged determination to seat himself in the gutter4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,grand ,,saloon1 ,,arbury ,,hall ,the old tavern1 one of the few which still retain the old-fashioned arched doorways through which the coaches used to enter to change horses1 boasts of having entertained guests no less distinguished than ,oliver ,cromwell and the immortal ,shakespeare4 ,my wife said she was sure this was true1 for the house smelled as if it had not been swept since ,shakespeare's time4 ,in the morning we drove to ,arbury ,hall1 the private grounds of which make a beautifully wooded park of three hundred acres4 ,the mansion is seen to the best advantage from the opposite side of a little pool1 where the surrounding trees and shrubbery are pleasantly reflected in the still water1 where marsh-grass and rushes are waving gently in the summer air1 and the pond-lilies spread their round green leaves to make a richer1 deeper background for their blossoms of purest white4 ,on a green knoll behind this charming foreground stands a gray stone mansion of rectangular shape1 its sharp corners softened with ivy and by the foliage at either end4 ,three great gothic windows in the center1 flanked on both ends by slightly projecting wings1 each with a double-storied oriel1 and a multitude of pinnacles surmounting the walls on every side1 give a distinguished air to the building1 as though it were a part of some great cathedral4 ,this ,gothic aspect was imparted to the mansion something over a hundred years ago by ,sir ,roger ,newdigate1 who was the prototype of ,george ,eliot's ,sir ,christopher ,cheverel1 and the novelist describes the place as if in the process of remodeling4 ,we were cordially welcomed by the present owner1 ,mr4 ,newdegate1 whose hospitality doubly confirmed our first impressions of ,british courtesy4 ,after some preliminary conversation we rose to begin a tour of inspection4 ,our host threw open a door and instantly we were face to face with the two full-length portraits of ,sir ,christopher and ,lady ,cheverel1 which for so long had stood in my mind as the only known objects of interest at ,arbury4 ,they are the work1 by the way1 not of ,sir ,joshua ,reynolds1 but of ,george ,romney4 ,george ,eliot wrote from memory1 probably a full score of years after her last visit to the place1 and this is one of several slight mistakes4 ,these fine portraits1 really representing ,sir ,roger ,newdigate and his lady1 hang at the end of a large and sumptuously furnished room1 with high vaulted ceiling in the richest ,gothic style1 suggesting in the intricate delicacy of its tracery the famous ,chapel of ,henry ,,vii in ,westminster ,abbey4 ,the saloon1 as the apartment is called1 is lighted chiefly by a large bay window1 the very one through which ,sir ,christopher stepped into the room and found various members of his household examining the progress of the unfinished ceiling4 ,looking out through these windows1 our host noticed some gathering clouds and suggested a drive through the park before the shower4 ,soon his pony-cart was at the door1 drawn by a dainty little horse appropriately named ,lightheart1 for no animal with so fond a master could possibly have a care in the world4 ,we stopped for a few minutes at ,astley ,castle1 the ,knebley ,abbey of ,george ,eliot1 an old but picturesque mansion1 once the residence of the famous ,lord ,seymour and his ill-fated protegee1 ,lady ,jane ,grey4 ,then1 after a brief pause at the parson's cottage1 we proceeded to ,astley ,church1 a stone building with a square tower such as one sees throughout ,england4 ,a flock of sheep pasturing in the inclosure suggested ,george ,eliot's bucolic parson1 the ,reverend ,mr4 ,gilfil1 who smoked his pipe with the farmers and talked of short-horns and sharrags and yowes during the week1 and on ,sunday after ,sunday repeated the same old sermons to the ever-increasing satisfaction of his parishioners4 ,we photographed this ancient temple on the inside as well as outside1 for it contains some curious frescoes representing the saints holding ribbons with mottoes from which one is expected to obtain excellent moral lessons4 ,our next objective was the birthplace of ,george ,eliot1 a small cottage standing in one corner of the park4 ,we were driving rapidly along one of the smooth roads leading to the place1 when the pony made a sudden turn to the right4 ,i was sitting on the rear seat1 facing backward1 camera and tripod in hand4 ,the cart went down a steep embankment1 then up again1 and the next instant ,i was sprawled ignominiously on the ground1 while near by lay the tripod1 broken into a hundred splinters4 ,scrambling to my feet1 ,i saw the pony-cart stuck tight in the mud of a ditch not far away1 my wife and our host still on the seat1 and nobody the worse for the accident except poor ,lightheart1 who was almost overcome with excitement4 ,he had encountered some men on the road leading a bull1 and quickly resolved not to face what1 to one of his gentle breeding1 seemed a deadly peril4 ,leading the trembling ,lightheart1 we walked back to the house1 and in due season sat down to luncheon beneath the high vaulted ceiling of that splendid dining-room1 which ,george ,eliot thought looked less like a place to dine in than a piece of space inclosed simply for the sake of beautiful outline4 ,a cathedral-like aspect is given to the room by the great ,gothic windows which form the distinguishing architectural feature of the building4 ,these open into an alcove1 large enough in itself1 but small when compared with the main part of the room4 ,the ecclesiastical effect is heightened by the rich ,gothic ornamentation of the canopies built over various niches in the walls1 or rather it would be1 were it not for the fact that the latter are filled with life-size statues in white marble1 of a distinctly classical character4 ,opposite the windows is a mantel of generous proportions1 in pure white1 the rich decorations of which would not be inappropriate for some fine altar-piece2 but ,cupid and ,psyche1 standing in a carved niche above1 instantly dissipate any churchly thoughts1 though they seem to be having a heavenly time4 ,after luncheon we sat for a time in the library1 in the left wing of the building1 examining a first folio ,shakespeare1 while our host busied himself with various notes of introduction and other memoranda for our benefit4 ,as we sat in the oriel window of this room1--the same in which ,sir ,christopher received the ,widow ,hartopp1--we noticed what appeared to be magazines1 fans1 and other articles on the chairs and sofas4 ,they proved to be embroidered in the upholstery4 ,it is related that ,sir ,roger ,newdigate--,sir ,christopher ,cheverel1 it will be remembered--used to remonstrate with his lady for leaving her belongings scattered over his library4 ,she--good woman--was not only obedient1 but possessed a sense of humor as well1 for she promptly removed the articles1 but later took advantage of her lord's absence to leave their counterfeit presentment in such permanent form that there they have remained for more than a century4 ,the opposite wing of the mansion contains the drawing-room1 adjoining the saloon4 ,it is lighted by an oriel window corresponding to that in the library4 ,the walls are decorated with a series of long narrow panels1 united at the top by intricate combinations of graceful pointed arches1 in keeping with the ,gothic style of the whole building4 ,it was curious to note how well ,george ,eliot remembered it1 for here was the full-length portrait of ,sir ,anthony ,cheverel standing with one arm akimbo1 exactly as described4 ,how did the novelist happen to remember that arm akimbo1 if1 as is quite likely1 she had not seen the room for more than twenty years8 ,it was in this room that ,catarina sat down to the harpsichord and poured out her emotions in the deep rich tones of a fine contralto voice4 ,the harpsichord upon which the real ,catarina played--her name was ,sally ,shilton--is now upstairs in the long gallery1 and here we saw not only that interesting instrument1 but also the queer old family portraits 444 of faded1 pink-faced ladies1 with rudimentary features and highly developed head-dresses--of gallant gentlemen1 with high hips1 high shoulders1 and red pointed beards4 ,mr4 ,newdegate1 with that fine spirit of helpfulness that we had met in his friend ,mr4 ,colvin1 informed us that he had invited the ,reverend ,frederick ,r4 ,evans1 ,canon of ,bedworth1 a nephew of ,george ,eliot1 to meet us at luncheon1 but an engagement had interfered4 ,we were invited1 however1 to visit the rectory at ,bedworth1 and later did so1 receiving a cordial welcome4 ,mrs4 ,evans took great delight in showing various mementoes of her husband's distinguished relative1 including a lace cap worn by ,george ,eliot and a pipe that once belonged to the ,countess ,czerlaski of ,the ,sad ,fortune of the ,reverend ,amos ,barton4 ,i can still hear the ring of her hearty laugh as she took us into the parlor1 and pointing to a painting on the wall1 exclaimed1 ,and here is ,aunt ,glegg6 ,there she was1 sure enough1 with the fuzzy front of curls which were always economized by not wearing them until after #aj4cj ,a4,m4 ,at this point the canon suddenly asked1 ,have you seen the stone table8 ,i had been looking for this table4 ,it is the one where ,mr4 ,casaubon sat when ,dorothea found him1 apparently asleep1 but really dead1 as dramatically told in ,middlemarch4 ,i had expected to find it at ,griff ,house1 near ,nuneaton1 the home of ,george ,eliot's girlhood1 but the arbor at the end of the ,yew ,tree ,walk was empty4 ,we were quite pleased1 therefore1 when ,mr4 ,evans took us into his garden and there showed us the original table of stone which the novelist had in mind when she wrote the incident4 ,among the other things ,mr4 ,newdegate had busied himself in writing1 while we sat in his library1 was a message to a friend in ,nuneaton1 ,dr4 ,n----1 who1 he said1 knew more about ,george ,eliot than any one else in the neighborhood4 ,we accordingly stopped our little coupe at the doctor's door1 as we drove back to town4 ,he insisted upon showing us the landmarks1 and as there was no room in our vehicle1 mounted his bicycle and told the driver to follow4 ,in this way we were able to identify nearly all the localities of ,amos ,barton and ,janet's ,repentance4 ,he also pointed out the schoolhouse where ,mary ,ann ,evans was a pupil in her eighth or ninth year4 ,we arrived just as school was dismissed and a crowd of modern school children insisted upon adding their bright rosy faces to our picture4 ,they looked so fresh and interesting that ,i made no objection4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,school ,,in ,,nuneaton ,on the next evening we were entertained by the doctor and his wife at their home4 ,a picture of ,nuneaton fifty years ago attracted my notice4 ,the doctor explained that the artist1 when a young girl1 had known ,george ,eliot's father and mother1 and had been interested to paint various scenes of the earlier stories4 ,he advised us not to call1 because the old lady was very feeble4 ,what was my astonishment when1 upon returning to ,london a few weeks later1 ,i found a letter from this same good lady1 expressing regret that she had not met us1 and stating that she was sending me twenty-five of her water-color sketches4 ,among them were sketches of ,john and ,emma ,gwyther1 the original ,amos and ,milly ,barton1 drawn from life many years ago4 ,later she sent me a portrait of ,nanny1 the housemaid who drove away the bogus countess4 ,these dear people seemed determined to make our quest a success4 ,we now turned our attention to ,adam ,bede1 traveling into ,staffordshire and ,derbyshire1 where ,robert ,evans1 the novelist's father and the prototype of ,adam ,bede1 was born and spent the years of his young manhood4 ,here again we were assisted by good-natured ,english people4 ,the first was a station agent4 ,just as the twilight was dissolving into a jet-black night we alighted from the train at the little hamlet of ,norbury1 with a steamer trunk1 several pieces of hand-baggage1 a camera1 and an assortment of umbrellas4 ,we expected to go to ,ellastone1 two miles away1 the original of ,hayslope1 the home of ,adam ,bede1 and the real home1 a century ago1 of ,robert ,evans4 ,after the train left1 the only person in sight was the station agent1 who looked with some surprise at the pile of luggage4 ,in reply to our question1 he recommended walking as the best and only way to reach ,ellastone4 ,a stroll of two miles1 over an unknown and muddy road1 in inky darkness1 with two or three hundred pounds of luggage to carry1 did not appeal to us1 particularly as it was now beginning to rain4 ,we suggested a carriage1 but there was none4 ,hotel8 ,norbury boasted no such conveniences4 ,it began to look as though we might be obliged to camp out in the rain on the station platform4 ,but the good-natured agent1 whose day's work was now done1 and who was anxious to go home to his supper1 placed the ticket-office1 where there was a fire1 at our disposal1 and a boy was found who was willing to go to ,ellastone on his bicycle and learn whether the inn was open 7the agent thought not71 and if so1 whether any one there would send a carriage for us4 ,a long wait of an hour ensued1 during which we congratulated ourselves that if we had to sleep on the floor of the ticket-office1 it would at least be dryer than the platform4 ,at last the boy returned with the news that the inn was not open1 but that a carriage would be sent for us6 ,after another seemingly interminable delay1 we finally heard the welcome sound of wheels on the gravel4 ,our carriage had arrived6 ,it was a butcher's cart4 ,when the baggage was thrown in1 there was but one seat left--the one beside the driver4 ,small chance for two fairly good-sized passengers1 but there was only one solution4 ,i climbed in and took the only remaining seat1 while my knees automatically formed another one which my companion in misery promptly appropriated1 and away we went1 twisting and turning through a wet and muddy lane1 so dark that the only visible part of the horse was his tail1 the mud flying into our faces from one direction and the rain from another1 but happy in the hope and expectation that if the cart did not turn over and throw us into the hedges1 we should soon find a better place for a night's lodging than a country railway station4 ,in due time we reached the inn1 the very one before which ,mr4 ,casson1 the landlord1 stood and invited ,adam ,bede to step in an' tek somethink4 ,we were greeted with equal hospitality by the landlord's wife1 who ushered us into the best parlor1 kindled a rousing fire in the grate 7,english fires are not usually rousing71 and asked what we would have for supper4 ,by the time the mud had dried in nice hard lozenges on our clothing1 an excellent meal was on the table4 ,it disappeared with such promptness as to bring tears of gratitude to the eyes of the cook--none other than the hospitable landlady herself4 ,we then found ourselves settled for the night in a large1 airy1 and particularly clean bedroom1 the best chamber in the house4 ,oh1 no1 sir1 the inn is not open1 explained our good ,samaritan1 but we 're always glad to make strangers comfortable4 ,these words indicate the spirit of the remark1 which we comprehended because helped by the good lady's eyes1 her smile1 and her gestures4 ,i cannot set down the exact words for the reasons set forth by ,mr4 ,casson1 ,george ,eliot's landlord of the ,donnithorne ,arms1 who said to ,adam3 ,they 're cur'ous talkers i' this country2 the gentry's hard work to hunderstand 'em2 ,i was brought hup among the gentry1 sir1 an' got the turn o' their tongue when ,i was a bye4 ,why1 what do you think the folks here says for 'hev n't you'8--the gentry1 you know1 says1 'hev n't you'--well1 the people about here says1 'hanna yey4' ,it's what they call the dileck as is spoke hereabout1 sir4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,bromley-,,davenport ,,arms ,it was curious to note1 when we explored the village the next morning1 that ,ellastone is even now apparently just the same little hamlet it was in the time of ,george ,eliot's father4 ,i had never expected to find the real ,hayslope4 ,i supposed1 of course1 that it would be swallowed up by some big manufacturing town4 ,but here it was exactly as represented--except that ,adam ,bede's cottage has been enlarged and repainted and a few small houses now occupy the village green where ,dinah ,morris preached4 ,the parish church1 with its square stone tower and clock of orthodox style1 still remains the chief landmark of the village as it was on the day in #ahja when ,robert ,evans married his first wife1 ,harriet ,poynton1 a servant in the ,newdigate family1 by whom the young man was also employed as a carpenter4 ,mr4 ,francis ,newdigate1 the great-grandfather of our friend at ,arbury1 lived in ,wootton ,hall and was the original of the old squire in ,adam ,bede4 ,this fine old estate was the ,donnithorne ,chase of the novel1 and therefore we found it worthy of a visit4 ,we found the fine old hoaks there1 which ,mr4 ,casson mentioned to ,adam1 and with them some equally fine elms and a profusion of flowers1 the latter tastefully arranged about a series of broad stone terraces1 stained with age and partly covered with ivy1 which gave the place the dignified aspect of some ancient palace of the nobility4 ,much to our regret the owner was not at home1 but the gardener maintained the hitherto unbroken chain of courtesy by showing us the beauties of the place from all the best points of view4 ,it has not been my intention to follow in detail the events of our exploration of the country of ,george ,eliot1 nor to describe the many scenes of varied interest which were gradually unfolded to us4 ,i have sought rather to suggest what is likely to happen to an amateur photographer in search of pictures1 and how such a quest becomes a real pleasure when the people one meets manifest a genuine interest and a spirit of friendly helpfulness such as we experienced almost invariably4 ,,ii ,there were some occasions upon which the chain of courtesy1 to which ,i have previously referred1 if not actually broken1 received some dangerous strains1 when great care had to be taken lest it snap asunder4 ,there are surly butlers and keepers in ,england as elsewhere1 and we encountered one of the species in the ,lake ,district4 ,i had called at the country residence of ,captain ----1 a wealthy gentleman and a member of ,parliament4 ,the place was celebrated for its wonderful gardens and is described in one of the novels of ,mrs4 ,humphry ,ward4 ,his ,high-and-,mightiness1 the ,butler1 was suffering from a severe attack of the ,grouch1 resulting in a stiffening of the muscles of the back and shoulders4 ,he would do nothing except inform me that his ,master was not at 'ome4 ,i could only leave a message and say ,i would return4 ,the next day ,i was greeted by the same ,resplendent ,person1 his visage suffused with smiles and his spinal column oscillating like an inverted pendulum4 ,captain ---- is ex-treme-ly sorry he cawnt meet you1 sir4 ,he's obliged to be in ,lunnun to-day1 sir1 but he towld me to sai to you1 sir1 that you're to taik everythink in the 'ouse you want1 sir4 ,and then the ,important ,one gave me full possession while ,i photographed the most interesting rooms1 coming back occasionally to inquire whether ,i wished him to move hany harticles of furniture1 afterward hunting up the gardener1 who in turn conducted me through the sacred precincts of his own particular domain4 ,at another time1 also in connection with ,mrs4 ,ward's novels1 ,i came dangerously near to another break4 ,it was down in ,surrey1 whither we had gone to visit the scenery of ,robert ,elsmere4 ,i knocked at the door of a little stone cottage celebrated in the novel1 and was shown into the presence of a very old gentleman1 who looked suspiciously1 first at my card1 and then at me1 finally demanding to know what ,i wanted4 ,i explained that ,i was an ,american and had come to take a picture of his house4 ,he looked puzzled1 and after some further scrutiny of my face1 my clothes1 my shoes1 and my hat1 said slowly1 ,well1 you people in ,america must be crazy to come all the way over here to photograph this house4 ,i have always said it's the ugliest house in ,england1 owned by the ugliest landlord that ever lived1 and occupied by the ugliest tenant in the parish4 ,fortunately he was not possessed of the ,oriental delusion that a photograph causes some of the virtue of an individual 7or of a house7 to pass out into the picture1 and upon further reflection concluded that if a harmless lunatic wanted to make a picture of his ugly old house1 it wouldn't matter much after all4 ,not infrequently it happened that the keepers in charge of certain places of public interest1 while desiring to be courteous themselves1 were bound by strict instructions from their superiors4 ,in the year when we were exploring the length and breadth of ,england and ,scotland in search of the scenes of ,sir ,walter ,scott's writings1 we came one day to a famous hall1 generously thrown open to the public by the ,duke of ----1 who owned it4 ,here we found a rule that the use of stands or tripods would not be permitted in the building4 ,snap-shots with hand-cameras were freely allowed1 but these are always more or less dependent on chance1 and for interior views1 requiring a long time-exposure1 are worthless4 ,the duke1 apparently1 did not mind poor pictures1 but was afraid of good ones4 ,i felt that ,i really must have views of the famous rooms of that house1 and we pleaded earnestly with the keeper4 ,but orders were orders and he remained inflexible1 but always courteous4 ,he wanted to help1 however1 and finally conducted me to a cottage near by where ,i was presented to his immediate superior1 a good-looking and good-natured woman4 ,she1 too1 was willing and even anxious to oblige1 but the duke's orders were imperative4 ,finally a thought struck me4 ,you say stands are forbidden--would it be an infraction of the rules if ,i were to rest my camera on a table or chair8 ,oh1 no1 indeed6 she quickly replied2 then1 calling to the keeper1 said1 ,john1 ,i want you to do everything you can for this gentleman4 ,john seemed pleased4 ,he first performed his duty to the duke by locking up the dangerous tripod where it could do no harm4 ,then taking charge of us1 he conducted us through the well-worn rooms1 meanwhile instructing his daughter to look after other visitors and keep them out of our way4 ,i rested my camera on ancient chairs and tables so precious that the visitors were not permitted to touch them1 ,john kindly removing the protecting ropes4 ,we were taken to parts of the house and garden not usually shown to visitors1 so anxious was our guide to assist in our purpose4 ,at last we came to a great ballroom1 with richly carved woodwork1 but absolutely bare of furniture4 ,here the forbidden stand was sorely needed4 ,my companion promptly came to the rescue4 ,i'll be the tripod1 said she4 ,the hint was a good one1 so1 resting the camera upon her shoulder1 ,i soon had my picture composed and in focus4 ,then1 placing the camera on a convenient window-ledge just above my head1 and making allowance for the increased elevation1 ,i gave the plate a long exposure and the result was as good an interior as ,i ever made4 ,this is one of the best parts of the game--the overcoming of obstacles4 ,without it1 photography would be poor fun1 something like the game of checkers ,i once played with a village rustic4 ,he swept off all my men in half a dozen moves and then went away disgusted4 ,i was too easy4 ,a picture that is not worth taking a little trouble to get is usually not worth having4 ,i have even been known to take pictures ,i really did not need1 just because some unexpected difficulties arose4 ,another part of the pursuit1 which ,i have always enjoyed1 is the quiet amusement one can often derive from unexpected situations4 ,one day in ,london1 when the streets were pretty well crowded with ,coronation visitors1 we decided to take a picture of the new ,victoria ,monument in front of ,buckingham ,palace4 ,i had taken the precaution to secure a permit1 so1 without asking any questions1 proceeded to spread out my tripod and compose my picture4 ,just as ,i inserted the plate-holder1 a ,bobby1 by which name the ,london policeman is generally known1 appeared1 advancing with an air that plainly said1 ,i'll soon stop that game1 my fine fellow6 ,i expressed my surprise and said ,i had a permit1 at the same time drawing the slide--an action which1 not being a photographer1 he did not consider significant4 ,he looked scornfully at the permit1 and said it was not good after #aj ,a4,m4 ,here1 again1 the assistant photographer of our expedition came to the rescue4 ,she exercised the woman's privilege of asking ,why8 and ,bobby moved from in front of the camera to explain4 ,click went the shutter1 in went the slide1 out came the plate-holder1 and into the case went the camera4 ,bobby politely apologized for interfering1 and expressed his deep regret at being obliged to disappoint us4 ,i solemnly assured him that it was all right1 that he had only done his duty and that ,i did not blame him in the least6 ,but ,i neglected to inform him that the ,victoria ,monument was already mine4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,birthplace ,,of ,,robert ,,burns ,one of the pleasures of rambling with a camera is that it takes you to so many out-of-the-way places1 which you would not otherwise be likely to visit4 ,dorothy ,wordsworth in her ,recollections of a ,tour in ,scotland complains that all the roads and taverns in ,scotland are bad4 ,dorothy ought to have known1 for she and ,william walked most of the way to save their bones from dislocation by the jolting of their little cart1 and their limited resources compelled them to seek the shelter and food of the poorest inns4 ,the modern tourist1 on the contrary1 will find excellent roads and for the most part hotel accommodations where he can be fairly comfortable4 ,it was something of a rarity1 therefore1 when1 as occasionally happened1 we could find nothing but an inn of the kind that flourished a century ago4 ,on a very rainy morning in ,may we alighted from the train at the little village of ,ecclefechan1 known to the world only as the birthplace of ,thomas ,carlyle4 ,a farmer at the station1 of whom we inquired the location of a good hotel1 answered in a ,scotch dialect so broad that we could not compass it4 ,by chance a carriage stood near by1 and as it afforded the only escape from the pouring rain1 we stepped in and trusted to luck4 ,the vehicle presently drew up before the door of a very ancient hotel1 from which the landlady1 whom we have ever since called ,mrs4 ,ecclefechan1 came out to meet us4 ,she was a frail little woman1 well along in years1 with thin features1 sharp eyes1 and a bald head1 the last of which she endeavored to conceal beneath a sort of peaked black bonnet1 tied with strings beneath her chin1 and suggesting the rather curious spectacle of a bishop's miter above a female face4 ,her dress was looped up by pinning the bottom of it around her waist1 exposing a gray-and-white striped petticoat that came down halfway between the knees and the ankles1 beneath which were a pair of coarse woolen stockings and some heavy shoes4 ,a burlap apron completed the costume4 ,our hostess1 who seemed to be proprietor1 clerk1 porter1 cook1 chambermaid1 waitress1 barmaid1 and bootblack of the establishment1 was possessed of a kind heart1 and she made us as comfortable as her limited facilities would permit4 ,we were taken into the public-room1 a space about twelve feet square1 with a small open fire at one end1 benches around the walls and a table occupying nearly all the remaining space4 ,across a narrow passage was the kitchen1 where the landlady baked her oatmeal cake and served the regulars who came for a penny'orth o' rum and a bit of gossip4 ,in front was another tiny room where were served fastidious guests who did not care to eat in the kitchen4 ,at noon we sat down to a luncheon1 which might have been worse1 and at five were summoned into the little room again4 ,we thought it curious to serve hard boiled eggs with afternoon tea1 and thinking supper would soon be ready1 declined them4 ,this proved a sad mistake for ,americans with big1 healthy appetites1 for the supper never came4 ,the eggs were it4 ,we spent the evening in the public-room sitting near the fire4 ,one by one the villagers dropped in1 each man ordering his toddy and spending an hour or two over a very small glass4 ,the evenings had been spent in that way in that place for a hundred years4 ,we seemed to be in the atmosphere of long ago4 ,a middle-aged ,scotchman1 whose name was pronounced1 very broadly1 ,fronk1 seemed to feel the responsibility of entertaining us4 ,he sang1 very sweetly ,i thought1 a song by ,lady ,nairne1 ,the ,auld ,hoose1 and recited with fine appreciation the lines of ,burns's ,lament for ,james1 ,earl of ,glencairn1 ,to a ,mouse1 ,to a ,louse1 and other poems4 ,he related how ,burns once helped a friend out of a dilemma4 ,three women had been buried side by side4 ,the son of one of them wished to put an inscription on his mother's tombstone1 but the sexton could not remember which grave was hers4 ,burns solved the problem by suggesting these lines3-- ,here1 or there1 or thereaboots1 ,lies the body of ,janet ,coutts1 ,but here1 or there1 or whereaboots1 ,nane can tell ,till ,janet rises and tells hersel4 ,our landlady assured us that ,fronk had the bluid o' ,douglas in his veins1 but he was now only a poor ne'er-do-weel1 picking up a bit shillin' now and then4 ,but he loved ,bobbie ,burns4 ,after the evening's entertainment we were shown to a tiny bedroom4 ,over the horrors upstairs ,i must draw the veil of charity1 only remarking that if ,i ever go to ,ecclefechan again ,i shall seek out a nice soft pile of old scrap-iron for a couch1 rather than risk another night on one of those beds4 ,of course we visited the birthplace of ,carlyle1 which is now one of the restored show places1 and an interesting one4 ,we also went to the graveyard to see the tomb of ,carlyle4 ,here we were conducted by an old woman1 nearly ninety years of age1 very poor and feeble1 who had lived in the village all her days4 ,we asked if she had ever seen ,carlyle4 ,oh1 yes1 she replied1 wearily1 ,i hae seen 'im4 ,he was a coo-rious mon4 ,then brightening she added1 with a smile that revealed her heart of hearts1 ,but we a' love ,bobbie ,burns4 ,and so we found it throughout ,scotland4 ,the feeble old woman and the dissipated wanderer shared with the intelligent and cultivated classes a deep-seated and genuine love for their own peasant poet1 whom they invariably called1 affectionately1 ,bobbie4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,burns ,,monument1 ,,ayrshire ,it was not long after this that we had occasion to visit the land of ,burns1 for a trip through ,scotland1 even when undertaken primarily for the sake of ,scott landmarks1 as ours was1 would scarcely be possible without many glimpses of the places made famous by the elder and less cultured but not less beloved poet4 ,scott's intimacy with ,adam ,ferguson1 the son of the distinguished ,dr4 ,adam ,ferguson1 was the means of his introduction to the best literary society in ,edinburgh1 and it was at the house of the latter1 that ,scott1 then a boy of fifteen1 met ,burns for the first and only time4 ,he attracted the notice of the elder poet by promptly naming the author of a poem which ,burns had quoted1 when no one else in the room could give the information4 ,it is a far cry from the aristocratic quarters of ,dr4 ,ferguson to the tavern in the ,canongate where the ,crochallan ,fencibles used to meet1 but here the lines crossed again1 for to this resort for convivial souls ,burns came to enjoy the bacchanalian revels known as ,high ,jinks1 in the same way as did ,andrew ,crosbie1 the original of ,scott's fictitious ,paulus ,pleydell4 ,we went to the old town of ,dumfries to see a number of places described by ,scott in ,guy ,mannering1 ,redgauntlet1 and other novels1 and found ourselves in the very heart of the ,burns country4 ,in the center of ,high ,street stands the old ,midsteeple in one room of which the original ,effie ,deans1 whose real name was ,isabel ,walker1 was tried for child murder4 ,here the real ,jeanie ,deans refused to tell a lie to save her sister's life1 afterward walking to ,london to secure her pardon4 ,almost around the corner is the house where ,burns's ,jean lived1 and where ,bobbie died4 ,in the same town is the churchyard of ,st4 ,michaels where ,burns lies buried in a handsome muselum1 as one of the natives informed us4 ,out on the road toward the old church of ,kirkpatrick ,irongray1 where ,scott erected a monument to ,helen ,walker1 the prototype of ,jeanie ,deans1 is a small remnant of the house once occupied by that heroine4 ,in the same general direction but a little farther to the north1 on the banks of the river ,nith1 is ,ellisland1 where ,burns attempted to manage a farm1 attend to the duties of an excise officer1 and write poetry1 all at the same time4 ,out of the last came ,tam o' ,shanter1 but the other two attempts were failures4 ,we traveled down to ,ayrshire to see the coast of ,carrick and what is left of the ancestral home of ,robert ,bruce1 where the ,scottish hero landed1 with the guidance of supernatural fires1 as graphically related by ,scott in ,the ,lord of the ,isles4 ,here again we were in ,burns's own country4 ,in the city of ,ayr we saw the ,twa ,brigs and the very tavern which ,tam o' ,shanter may be supposed to have frequented1-- ,and at his elbow1 ,souter ,johnie1 ,his ancient1 trusty1 drouthy cronie4 ,of course we drove to ,burns's birthplace1 about three miles to the south1 a long1 narrow cottage with a thatched roof1 one end of which was dwelling-house and the other end stable4 ,it was built by the poet's father1 with his own hands1 and when ,robert was born there in the winter of #agei probably looked a great deal less respectable than it does now4 ,continuing southward1 we stopped at ,alloway ,kirk for a view of the old church where ,tam o' ,shanter first saw the midnight dancing of the witches and started on his famous ride4 ,the keeper felt personally aggrieved because ,i preferred to utilize my limited time to make a picture of the church1 rather than listen to his repetition of a tale which ,i already knew by heart4 ,we traveled over ,tam's route and soon had a fine view of the old ,brig o' ,doon1 where ,tam at length escaped the witches at the expense of his poor nag's tail4 ,i have made few pictures that pleased me more than that of the auld brig1 which ,i was able to get by placing my camera on the new bridge near by4 ,here the memory of ,burns is again accentuated by a graceful memorial1 in the form of a ,grecian temple and very similar to the one on ,calton ,hill1 ,edinburgh1 but far more beautifully situated4 ,it is surrounded by a garden of well-trimmed yews1 shrubbery of various kinds1 and a wealth of brightly blooming flowers1 and best of all1 stands well above the banks and braes o' bonnie ,doon1 where the poet himself would have been happy to stand and look upon his beloved river4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,brig ,o' ,,doon1 ,,ayrshire ,whatever may have been ,bobbie's faults1 and1 poor fellow1 they were many and grievous1 there is nothing more beautiful than the mantle of love beneath which they have been concealed and forgotten4 ,he touched the hearts of his countrymen as none other ever did1 and out of the sordid earth of his shortcomings have sprung beautiful flowers1 laid out along well-ordered and graceful paths1 a delight and solace to his fellow-men1 like the brilliant blossoms that brighten the lovely garden at the base of his memorial overlooking the ,doon4 ,,iii ,a ,,day ,,in ,,wordsworth',s ,,country ,,iii ,a ,,day ,,in ,,wordsworth',s ,,country ,our arrival on ,saturday evening at the village of ,windermere was like the sudden and unexpected realization of a dream4 ,on many a winter night1 under the light of our library lamp at home1 we had talked of that vague1 distant sometime when we should visit the ,english ,lakes4 ,and now--by what curious combination of circumstances we did not try to analyze--here we were with the whole beautiful panorama1 in all its evening splendors1 spread out before us4 ,through our minds passed1 as in a vision1 the whole company of poets who are inseparably associated with these scenes3 ,wordsworth1 whose abiding influence upon the spirit of poetry will endure as long as the mountains and vales which taught him to love and reverence nature2 ,southey1 who1 himself without the appreciation of nature1 was the first to recognize ,wordsworth's rare power of interpreting her true meaning2 ,coleridge1 the most intimate friend of the greater poet1 whom ,wordsworth declared to be the most wonderful man he ever met1 and who1 in spite of those shortcomings which caused his life to end in worldly failure1 nevertheless possessed a native eloquence and alluring personality4 ,nor should we forget ,de ,quincey1 who spent twenty of the happiest years of his life at ,dove ,cottage1 as the successor of the ,wordsworths4 ,his most intimate companion was the famous ,professor ,wilson of ,edinburgh1 known to all readers of ,blackwood's ,magazine as ,christopher ,north4 ,attracted partly by the beauty of the ,lake ,country1 but more by his desire to cultivate the intimacy of ,wordsworth1 whose genius he greatly admired1 ,professor ,wilson bought a pretty place in ,cumberland1 where he lived for several years4 ,he enjoyed the companionship of the friendly group of poets1 but1 we are told1 occasionally sought a different kind of pleasure in measuring his strength with some of the native wrestlers1 one of the most famous of whom has testified that he found him a very bad un to lick4 ,at a later time1 ,dr4 ,arnold of ,rugby found himself drawn to the ,lakes by the same double attraction1 and built the charming cottage at ,fox ,how on the ,river ,rothay1 where his youngest daughter still resides4 ,he wrote in #ahcb3 ,our intercourse with the ,wordsworths was one of the brightest spots of all2 nothing could exceed their friendliness1 and my almost daily walks with him were things not to be forgotten4 ,it was not alone the beauty of the ,westmoreland scenery that had attracted this group of famous men4 ,there are lovelier lakes in ,scotland and more majestic mountains in ,switzerland4 ,but ,wordsworth was here1 in the midst of those charming displays of ,nature in her most cheerful as well as most soothing moods4 ,nature's best interpreter and ,nature herself could be seen together4 ,for a hundred years this same influence has continued to exercise its spell upon travelers1 and we are bound to recognize the fact that this1 and nothing else1 had drawn us away from our prearranged path1 that we might enjoy the pleasure of a ,sunday in the country of ,wordsworth4 ,the morning dawned1 bright and beautiful1 suggesting that splendid day when ,wordsworth1 then a youth of eighteen1 found himself possessed of an irresistible desire to devote his life to poetry3 ,magnificent ,the morning rose1 in memorable pomp1 ,glorious as e'er ,i had beheld--in front1 ,the sea lay laughing at a distance2 near1 ,the solid mountains shone1 bright as the clouds1 ,grain-tinctured1 drenched in empyrean light2 ,and in the meadows and the lower grounds ,was all the sweetness of a common dawn-- ,dews1 vapors1 and the melody of birds1 ,and laborers going forth to till the fields4 ,ah6 need ,i say1 dear ,friend1 that to the brim ,my heart was full2 ,i made no vows1 but vows ,were then made for me2 bond unknown to me ,was given1 that ,i should be1 else sinning greatly1 ,a dedicated spirit4 ,we resolved that the whole of this beautiful day should be devoted to catching something of that indefinable spirit of the ,westmoreland hills which had made a poet of ,wordsworth1 and through him taught the love of ,nature to countless thousands4 ,a few steps took us away from the town1 the inn1 and the other tourists1 into a quiet woodland path leading toward the lake1 at the end of which we stood ,on long ,winander's eastern shore4 ,winander is the old form of ,windermere4 ,the lake was the scene of many of ,wordsworth's boyhood experiences4 ,when summer came1 ,our pastime was1 on bright half-holidays1 ,to sweep along the plain of ,windermere ,with rival oars2 and the selected bourne ,was now an ,island musical with birds ,that sang and ceased not2 now a ,sister ,isle ,beneath the oaks' umbrageous covert1 sown ,with lilies of the valley like a field2 ,and now a third small ,island1 where survived ,in solitude the ruins of a shrine ,once to ,our ,lady dedicate1 and served ,daily with chaunted rites4 ,in such a race1 ,so ended1 disappointment could be none1 ,uneasiness1 or pain1 or jealousy3 ,we rested in the shade1 all pleased alike1 ,conquered and conqueror4 ,thus the pride of strength1 ,and the vainglory of superior skill1 ,were tempered4 ,wordsworth's boyhood was probably very much like that of other boys4 ,he tells us that he was stiff1 moody1 and of a violent temper--so much so that he went up into his grandfather's attic one day1 while under the resentment of some indignity1 determined to destroy himself4 ,but his heart failed4 ,on another occasion he relates that while at his grandfather's house in ,penrith1 he and his eldest brother ,richard were whipping tops in the large drawing-room4 ,the walls were hung round with family pictures1 and ,i said to my brother1 ',dare you strike your whip through that old lady's petticoat8' ,he replied1 ',no1 ,i won't4' ',then1' said ,i1 'here goes6' and ,i struck my lash through her hooped petticoat2 for which1 no doubt1 though ,i have forgotten it1 ,i was properly punished4 ,but1 possibly from some want of judgment in the punishments inflicted1 ,i had become perverse and obstinate in defying chastisement1 and rather proud of it than otherwise4 ,lowell remarks upon this incident3 ,just so do we find him afterward striking his defiant lash through the hooped petticoat of the artificial style of poetry1 and proudly unsubdued by the punishment of the ,reviewers4 ,when scarcely ten years old1 it was his joy ,to range the open heights where woodcocks run4 ,he would spend half the night scudding away from snare to snare1 sometimes yielding to the temptation to take the birds caught in the snare of some other lad4 ,he felt the average boy's terror inspired by a guilty conscience1 for he says3-- ,and when the deed was done1 ,i heard among the solitary hills ,low breathings coming after me1 and sounds ,of undistinguishable motion1 steps ,almost as silent as the turf they trod4 ,across the lake from where we stood1 and over beyond the hills on the other side1 is the quaint old town of ,hawkshead1 where ,wordsworth was sent to school at the age of nine years4 ,the little schoolhouse may still be seen1 but it is of small import4 ,the real scenes of ,wordsworth's early education were the woods and vales1 the solitary cliffs1 the rocks and pools1 and the ,lake of ,esthwaite1 five miles round1 which he was fond of encircling in his early morning walks1 that he might sit ,alone upon some jutting eminence1 ,at the first gleam of dawn-light1 when the ,vale1 ,yet slumbering1 lay in utter solitude4 ,in winter-time a noisy crew made merry upon the icy surface of the lake4 ,all shod with steel1 ,we hissed along the polished ice in games ,confederate1 imitative of the chase ,and woodland pleasures1--the resounding horn1 ,the pack loud chiming1 and the hunted hare4 ,so through the darkness and the cold we flew1 ,and not a voice was idle4 ,nor were the pleasures of social life lacking4 ,dances1 feasts1 public revelry1 and ,a swarm ,of heady schemes1 jostling each other1 all seemed for a time to conspire to lure his mind away from the paths of books and nature1 which he would have preferred4 ,but1 curiously enough1 it was after one of these nights of revelry that1 on his way home1 ,wordsworth was so much impressed with the beauties of the dawn that he felt the impulse1 previously mentioned1 to devote himself to poetry4 ,no other poet ever gave such an account of the development of his own mind as ,wordsworth gives in the ,prelude4 ,and while he recounts enough incidents like the snaring of woodcock1 the fishing for trout in the quiet pools and the cascades of the mountain brooks1 the flying of kites on the hilltops1 the nutting expeditions1 the rowing on the lake1 and in the winter-time the skating and dancing1 to convince us that he was really a boy1 yet he continually shows that beneath it all there was a deeper feeling--a prophecy of the man who was even then developing4 ,no ordinary boy would have been conscious of a sense of pain at beholding the mutilated hazel boughs which he had broken in his search for nuts4 ,no ordinary lad of ten would be able to hold ,unconscious intercourse with beauty ,old as creation1 drinking in a pure ,organic pleasure from the silver wreaths ,of curling mist1 or from the level plain ,of waters colored by impending clouds4 ,even at that early age1 in the midst of all his pleasures he felt ,gleams like the flashing of a shield2--the earth ,and common face of ,nature spake to me ,rememberable things4 ,the secret of ,wordsworth's power lay in the fact that1 throughout a long life1 nature was to him a vital1 living ,presence--one capable of uplifting mankind to loftier aspirations1 of teaching noble truths1 and at the same time providing tranquillity and rest to the soul4 ,as a boy he had felt for nature ,a feeling and a love ,that had no need of a remoter charm4 ,but manhood brought a deeper joy4 ,for ,i have learned ,to look on nature1 not as in the hour ,of thoughtless youth2 but hearing oftentimes ,the still1 sad music of humanity1 ,nor harsh nor grating1 though of ample power ,to chasten and subdue4 ,and ,i have felt ,a presence that disturbs me with the joy ,of elevated thoughts2 a sense sublime of ,something far more deeply interfused1 ,whose dwelling is the light of setting suns1 ,and the round ocean1 and the living air1 ,and the blue sky1 and in the mind of man2 ,a motion and a spirit1 that impels ,all thinking things1 all objects of all thought1 ,and rolls through all things4 ,therefore am ,i still ,a lover of the meadows and the woods ,and mountains1 and of all that we behold ,from this green earth2 of all the mighty world ,of eye and ear--both what they half create1 ,and what perceive2 well pleased to recognize ,in nature and the language of the sense1 ,the anchor of my purest thoughts1 the nurse1 ,the guide1 the guardian of my heart1 and soul ,of all my moral being4 ,in these noble lines we reach the very summit of ,wordsworth's intellectual power and poetic genius4 ,we must now retrace our steps to the village and find a carriage to take us on our journey4 ,for we are not like our ,english friends1 who are good walkers1 nor do we care to emulate the pedestrian attainments of our poet1 who1 ,de ,quincey thought1 must have traversed a distance of one hundred and seventy-five thousand to one hundred and eighty thousand ,english miles4 ,so a comfortable landau takes us on our way1 skirting the upper margin of the lake1 then winding along the river ,brathay1 pausing for a moment to view the charming little cascade of ,skelwith ,force1 then on again until ,red ,bank is reached1 overlooking the vale of ,grasmere4 ,the first glimpse of this placid little lake1 with its one green island1 its shores well fringed with the budding foliage of spring1 the gently undulating hills forming as it were a graceful frame to the mirror of the waters1 in which the reflection of the blue sky and fleecy white clouds seemed even more beautiful than their original overhead--the first glimpse could scarcely fail to arouse the emotions of the most apathetic and stir up a poetic feeling in the most unpoetic of natures4 ,to a mind like ,wordsworth's1 such a scene was an inspiration1 a revelation of ,nature's charms such as could arouse an almost ecstatic enthusiasm in the heart of one who1 all his life1 had lived amid scenes of beauty and possessed the eyes to see them4 ,he came here first a roving schoolboy1 on a golden summer holiday1 and even then said1 with a sigh1-- ,what happy fortune were it here to live6 ,he had no thought1 nor even hope1 that he would ever realize such good fortune1 but only ,a fancy in the heart of what might be ,the lot of others never could be his4 ,illustration3 ,,grasmere ,,lake ,possibly he may have stood on this very knoll where we were enjoying our first view3-- ,the station whence we looked was soft and green1 ,not giddy1 yet aerial1 with a depth ,of vale below1 a height of hills above4 ,for rest of body perfect was the spot1 ,all that luxurious nature could desire2 ,but stirring to the spirit2 who could gaze ,and not feel motions there8 ,many years later1 in the summer of #agii1 ,wordsworth and ,coleridge were walking together over the hills and valleys of ,westmoreland and ,cumberland1 hoping to find1 each for himself1 a home where they might dwell as neighbors4 ,since receiving his degree at ,cambridge in #agia ,wordsworth had wandered about in a somewhat aimless way1 living for a time in ,london and in ,france1 visiting ,germany1 and finally attempting to find a home in the south of ,england4 ,a small legacy left him in #agie had given a feeling of independence1 and his one consuming desire at this time was to establish a home where his beloved sister ,dorothy might be with him and he could devote his entire time to poetry4 ,a little cottage in a quiet spot just outside the village of ,grasmere attracted his eye4 ,it had been a public-house1 and bore the sign ,the ,dove and the ,olive ,bough4 ,he called it ,dove ,cottage1 and for eight years it became his home4 ,we found the custodian1 a little old lady1 in a penny shop across the street1 and she was glad to show us through the tiny1 low-ceilinged rooms4 ,the cottage looks best from the little garden in the rear4 ,the ivy and the roses soften all the harsh angles of the eaves and convert even the chimney-pots into things of beauty4 ,a tangled mass of foliage covers the small back portico and makes a shady nook1 where a little bench is invitingly placed4 ,a few yards up the garden walk1 over stone steps put in place by ,wordsworth and ,hartley ,coleridge1 is the rocky well1 or spring1 where the poet placed bright gowan and marsh marigold brought from the borders of the lake4 ,at the farthest end is the little summer-house1 the poet's favorite retreat4 ,how well he loved this garden is shown in the poem written when he left ,grasmere to bring home his bride in #ahjb3-- ,sweet garden orchard1 eminently fair1 ,the loveliest spot that man hath ever found4 ,seating ourselves in this garden1 we tried to think of the three interesting personages who had made the place their home4 ,coleridge said1 ,his is the happiest family ,i ever saw4 ,they had one common object--to work together to develop a rare poetic gift4 ,they were poor1 for ,wordsworth had only the income of a very small legacy1 and the public had not yet come to recognize his genius2 the returns from his literary work were therefore extremely meager4 ,they got along with frugal living and poor clothing1 but as they made no pretensions they were never ashamed of their poverty4 ,visitors came and went1 and at the cost of many little sacrifices were hospitably entertained4 ,perhaps the world will never know how much ,wordsworth really owed to the two women of his household4 ,they lived together with no sign of jealousy or distrust4 ,the husband and brother was the object of their untiring and sympathetic devotion4 ,they walked with him1 read with him1 cared for him4 ,mrs4 ,wordsworth seems to have been a plain country-woman of simple manners1 yet possessed of a graciousness and tact which made everything in the household go smoothly4 ,de ,quincey declared that1 without being handsome or even comely1 she exercised all the practical fascination of beauty1 through the mere compensating charms of sweetness all but angelic1 of simplicity the most entire1 womanly self-respect and purity of heart speaking through all her looks1 acts1 and movements4 ,wordsworth was never more sincere than when he sang1-- ,she was a phantom of delight1 and closed the poem with that splendid tribute to a most excellent wife3-- ,a perfect woman1 nobly planned1 ,to warn1 to comfort1 and command2 ,and yet a spirit still1 and bright ,with something of angelic light4 ,he recognized her unusual poetic instinct by giving her full credit for the best two lines in one of his most beautiful poems1 ,the ,daffodils3-- ,they flash upon that inward eye ,which is the bliss of solitude4 ,to the other member of that household1 his sister ,dorothy1 ,wordsworth gave from early boyhood the full measure of his affection4 ,she was his constant companion in his walks1 at all hours and in all kinds of weather4 ,she cheerfully performed the irksome task of writing out his verses from dictation4 ,her observations of nature were as keen as his1 and the poet was indebted to ,dorothy's notebook for many a good suggestion4 ,he has been most generous in his acknowledgments of his obligation to her3-- ,she gave me eyes1 she gave me ears1 ,and humble cares1 and delicate fears1 99 99 99 99 99 ,and love1 and thought1 and joy4 ,in the early days when he was overwhelmed with adverse criticism and brought almost to the verge of despair1 it was ,dorothy's helping hand that brought him back to his own4 ,she whispered still that brightness would return2 ,she1 in the midst of all1 preserved me still ,a poet1 made me seek beneath that name1 ,and that alone1 my office upon earth4 ,illustration3 ,,dove ,,cottage1 ,,grasmere ,but it is ,de ,quincey who gives the best statement of the world's obligation to ,dorothy4 ,said he3-- ,whereas the intellect of ,wordsworth was1 by its original tendency1 too stern1 too austere1 too much enamored of an ascetic harsh sublimity1 she it was--the lady who paced by his side continually through sylvan and mountain tracks1 in ,highland glens1 and in the dim recesses of ,german charcoal-burners--that first couched his eye to the sense of beauty1 humanized him by the gentler charities1 and engrafted1 with her delicate female touch1 those graces upon the ruder growths of nature which have since clothed the forest of his genius with a foliage corresponding in loveliness and beauty to the strength of its boughs and the massiveness of its trunks4 ,nearly all of ,wordsworth's best poetry was written in this little cottage1 or1 to speak more accurately1 it was composed while he was living here4 ,for it was never his way to write verses while seated at a desk1 pen in hand4 ,his study was out of doors4 ,he could compose a long poem while walking1 and remember it all afterward when ready to dictate4 ,thousands of verses1 he said1 were composed on the banks of the brook running through ,easedale1 just north of ,grasmere ,lake4 ,the tall figure of the poet was a familiar sight to farmers for miles around1 as he paced the woods or mountain paths1 his head bent down1 and his lips moving with audible if not distinguishable sounds4 ,one of his neighbors has left on record an impression of how he seemed when he was making a poem4 ,he would set his head a bit forward1 and put his hands behind his back4 ,and then he would start in bumming1 and it was bum1 bum1 bum1 stop2 and then he'd set down1 and git a bit o' paper out1 and write a bit4 ,however1 his lips were always goan' whoole time he was upon gress#a walk4 ,he was a kind mon1 there's no two words about that2 and if any one was sick i' the place1 he wad be off to see til' 'em4 ,in personal appearance--about which1 by the way1 he cared little--he was not unlike the dalesmen about him4 ,nearly six feet high1 he looked strong and hardy enough to be a farmer himself4 ,carlyle speaks of him as businesslike1 sedately confident1 no discourtesy1 yet no anxiety about being courteous2 a fine wholesome rusticity1 fresh as his mountain breezes1 sat well on the stalwart veteran and on all he said or did4 ,on our return from ,grasmere we took the road along the north shore of ,rydal ,water--a small lake with all the characteristic beauty of this fascinating region1 and yet not so different from hundreds of others that it would ever attract more than passing notice4 ,but the name of ,rydal is linked with that of ,grasmere1 and the two are visited by thousands of tourists year after year4 ,for fifty years the shores of these two lakes and the hills and valleys surrounding them were the scenes of ,wordsworth's daily walks4 ,as we passed we heard the cuckoo--its mysterious sound seeming to come across the lake--and as our own thoughts were on ,wordsworth1 the wandering ,voice seemed appropriate4 ,if we could have heard the skylark at that moment1 our sense of satisfaction would have been quite complete1 and no doubt we should have cried out1 with the poet1-- ,up with me6 up with me into the clouds6 ,for thy song1 ,lark1 is strong2 ,up with me1 up with me into the clouds6 ,singing1 singing1 ,with clouds and sky about thee ringing1 ,lift me1 guide me till ,i find ,that spot which seems so to thy mind4 ,just north of the eastern end of the lake1 beneath the shadow of ,nab ,scar1 is ,rydal ,mount1 where the poet came to live in #ahac1 remaining until his death1 thirty-seven years later4 ,increasing prosperity enabled him to take this far more pretentious house4 ,it stands on a hill1 a little off the main road1 and quite out of sight of the tourists who pass through in coaches and chars-a-bancs4 ,the drivers usually jerk their thumbs in the general direction and say1 ,there is ,rydal ,mount1 etc41 and the tourists1 who have seen only a farmhouse--not ,wordsworth's--are left to imagine that they have seen the house of the poet4 ,it is an old house1 but some recent changes in doors and windows give it a more modern aspect4 ,the unaltered portion is thickly covered with ivy4 ,the ground in front is well planted with a profusion of rhododendrons4 ,a very old stone stairway descends from the plaza in front of the house to a kind of mound or rather a double mound1 the smaller resting upon a larger one4 ,from this point the house is seen to the best advantage4 ,in the opposite direction is a landscape of rare natural beauty4 ,far away in the distance lies ,lake ,windermere glistening like a shield of polished silver1 while on the left ,wansfell and on the right ,nab ,scar stand guard over the valley4 ,in the foreground the spire of the little church of ,rydal peeps out over the trees4 ,at the right of the house is a long terrace which formed one of ,wordsworth's favorite walks1 where he composed thousands of verses4 ,from here one may see both ,windermere and ,rydal ,water1 with mountains in the distance4 ,passing through the garden we came to a gate leading to ,dora's ,field4 ,here is the little pool where ,wordsworth and ,dora put the little goldfishes1 that they might enjoy a greater liberty4 ,here is the stone which ,wordsworth saved from destruction by the builders of a stone wall4 ,a little flight of stone steps leads down to another boulder containing the following inscription1 carved by the poet's own hand3-- ,wouldst thou be gathered to ,christ's chosen flock ,shun the broad way too easily explored ,and let thy path be hewn out of the rock ,the living ,rock of ,god's eternal ,,word #ahch ,illustration3 ,,wordsworth',s ,,well ,dora's field is thickly covered in spring-time with the beautiful golden daffodils1 planted by the poet himself4 ,no sight is more fascinating at this season than a field of these bright yellow flowers4 ,we ,americans1 who only see them planted in gardens1 cannot realize what daffodils mean to the ,english eye1 unless we chance to visit ,england during the early spring4 ,what ,wordsworth called a crowd of daffodils1 growing in thick profusion along the margin of a lake1 beneath the trees1 ten thousand to be seen at a glance1 all nodding their golden heads beside the dancing and foaming waves1 is a sight well worth seeing4 ,the waves beside them danced2 but they ,outdid the sparkling waves in glee2 ,a poet could not but be gay ,in such a jocund company3 ,i gazed--and gazed--but little thought ,what wealth the show to me had brought3 ,for oft1 when on my couch ,i lie ,in vacant or in pensive mood1 ,they flash upon that inward eye ,which is the bliss of solitude3 ,and then my heart with pleasure fills1 ,and dances with the daffodils4 ,but now the time had come to return to ,windermere1 and reluctantly we turned our backs upon these scenes1 so full of pleasant memories4 ,the day1 however1 was not yet done1 for after supper we climbed to the top of ,orrest-,head1 a little hill behind the village4 ,no more charming spot could have been chosen in which to spend the closing hours of this peaceful day4 ,far below lay the quiet waters of the lake1 only glimpses of its long and narrow surface appearing here and there1 like burnished mirrors set by ,nature for the sole purpose of reflecting a magnificent golden sky4 ,it was an evening of extraordinary1 splendor1 like that one which ,wordsworth saw from ,rydal ,mount3-- ,no sound is uttered1--but a deep ,and solemn harmony pervades ,the hollow vale from steep to steep1 ,and penetrates the glades4 ,as we stood watching the splendid sunset1 the village church rang out its chimes1 as if to accompany the inspiring scene with sweet and holy music4 ,how pleasant1 when the sun declines1 to view ,the spacious landscape change in form and hue6 ,here vanish1 as in mist1 before a flood ,of bright obscurity1 hill1 lawn1 and wood2 ,their objects1 by the searching beams betrayed1 ,come forth and here retire in purple shade2 ,even the white stems of birch1 the cottage white1 ,soften their glare before the mellow light4 ,the shadows which had been slowly falling upon the scene had now so far enveloped the mountain-side that the narrow roadways and stone fences marking the boundaries of the fields were barely visible4 ,suddenly in the distance we saw a moving object1 a mere speck upon the hillside4 ,it darted first in one direction and then another1 like some frightened being uncertain which way to turn4 ,then a darker speck appeared1 and with rapid movement circled to the rear of the whiter one1 the latter moving on ahead4 ,another sudden movement1 and a second white speck appeared in another spot4 ,the black speck as quickly moved to the rear of this second bit of white1 driving it in the same direction as the first4 ,the white specks then began to seem more numerous4 ,we tried to count--one--two--three--ten--a dozen--perhaps even twenty4 ,there was but one black speck1 and he seemed to be the master of all the others1 for1 darting here and there after the stragglers1 he kept them all together4 ,he drove them along the narrow road4 ,then1 coming to an opening in the fence1 he hurried along to the front of the procession2 then1 facing about1 deftly turned the whole flock through the gate into a large field4 ,through this pasture1 with the skill of a military leader1 he marshaled his troop1 rushing backwards and forwards1 allowing none to fall behind nor to stray away from the proper path1 finally bringing them up in a compact body to another opening in the opposite end of the field4 ,on he went1 driving his small battalion along the road1 then at right angles into another road1 until the whole flock of sheep and the little black dog who commanded them disappeared for the night among the out-buildings of a far distant farm4 ,the twilight had almost gone1 and in the growing darkness we retraced our steps to the village1 well content that1 through communion with the ,spirit of ,wordsworth in the presence of that mighty ,being who to him was the great ,teacher and ,inspirer of mankind1 our own love of nature had been reawakened1 and our time well spent on this peaceful1 never-to-be-forgotten day at ,windermere4 ,,footnote3 #a ,grass4 ,,iv ,,from ,,hawthornden ,,to ,,roslin ,,glen ,,iv ,,from ,,hawthornden ,,to ,,roslin ,,glen ,roslin's towers and braes are bonnie-- ,craigs and water6 woods and glen6 ,roslin's banks6 unpeered by ony1 ,save the ,muse's ,hawthornden4 ,the vale of the ,esk is unrivaled1 even in ,scotland1 for beauty and romantic interest4 ,from its source to where it enters the ,firth of ,forth1 the little river winds its way past ancient castles with their romantic legends1 famed in poetry and song1 and the picturesque homes of barons and lairds1 poets and philosophers1 forming as it goes1 with rocks and cliffs1 tall trees and overhanging vines1 a bewildering succession of beautiful scenes4 ,it was to this charming valley that ,walter ,scott came1 with his young wife1 in the first year of their wedded life4 ,a young man of imaginative and romantic temperament1 though as yet unknown to fame1 he found the place an inspiration and delight4 ,a pretty little cottage1 with thatched roof1 and a garden commanding a beautiful view1 made the home where many happy summers were spent4 ,this was at ,lasswade1 a village which took its striking name from the fact--let us hope it was a fact--that here a sturdy lass was wont to wade the stream1 carrying travelers on her back1--a ferry service sufficiently romantic to make up for its uncertainty4 ,lockhart tells us that it was amidst these delicious solitudes that ,walter ,scott laid the imperishable foundation of all his fame4 ,it was here that when his warm heart was beating with young and happy love1 and his whole mind and spirit were nerved by new motives for exertion--it was here that in the ripened glow of manhood he seems to have first felt something of his real strength1 and poured himself out in those splendid original ballads which were at once to fix his name4 ,sweet are the paths1 ,o passing sweet6 ,by ,esk's fair streams that run1 ,o'er airy steep through copsewood deep1 ,impervious to the sun4 99 99 99 99 99 ,who knows not ,melville's beechy grove ,and ,roslin's rocky glen1 ,dalkeith1 which all the virtues love1 ,and classic ,hawthornden8 ,illustration3 ,,hawthornden ,the visitor who would see ,roslin's rocky glen may take a coach in ,edinburgh and soon reach the spot after a pleasant drive over a well-kept road4 ,but if he would see classic ,hawthornden in the same day1 he must go there first4 ,for the gate which separates the two opens out from ,hawthornden and the traveler cannot pass in the opposite direction4 ,we therefore took the train from ,edinburgh1 and after half an hour alighted at a little station1 from which we walked a few hundred yards along a quiet country road1 until we reached a lodge marking the entrance to a large estate4 ,entering here1 a few steps brought us to the house of the gardener1 who first conducted us to the place that interests him the most--a large and well-kept garden1 full of fruits and vegetables1 beautiful flowers and well-trained vines4 ,his pride satisfied by our sincere admiration of his handiwork1 our guide was ready to reveal to us the glory of ,hawthornden1 and conducted us to the edge of a precipice known as ,john ,knox's ,pulpit4 ,in front is a deep ravine of stupendous rocks partly bare and partly covered with bushes and pendent creepers4 ,the tall trees on the border1 the wooded hill in the distance1 and the grand sweep of the river far below1 form a scene of majestic grandeur as nearly perfect as one could wish4 ,to the left1 on the very edge of a perpendicular rock1 is a strong1 well-built mansion1 so situated that the windows of its principal rooms command a view of the wondrous vale4 ,on the other side of the house are the ivy-covered ruins of an older castle1 dating back many centuries4 ,since the middle of the sixteenth century1 ,hawthornden has been the home of a family of ,drummonds--a famous ,scottish name4 ,william ,drummond1 the most distinguished of them all1 whose name is inseparably associated with the place1 was born in #aehe4 ,his father was a gentleman-usher at the court of ,king ,james ,,vi1 and through his association with the ,scottish royalty had acquired the ,hawthornden property4 ,the boy grew up amid such surroundings1 was educated at the ,university of ,edinburgh1 and traveled on the ,continent for three years before settling down to his life-work1 which he then thought would be the practice of law4 ,but scarcely had he returned to ,edinburgh for this purpose1 when his father died1 and young ,drummond1 at the age of twenty-four1 found himself master of ,hawthornden with ample means at his command4 ,all thought of the law was abandoned forthwith4 ,the quiet of ,hawthornden and the beauty of its natural scenery fitted his temperament exactly4 ,he had already acquired a scholar's tastes1 had read extensively1 and possessed a large library in which the ,latin classics predominated1 though there were many books in ,greek1 ,hebrew1 ,italian1 ,spanish1 ,french1 and ,english4 ,he retired to his delightful home to live among his books1 and if he found that such surroundings became a tacit invitation from the ,muses to keep them company1 who could wonder8 ,content with my books and the use of my eyes1 he said1 ,i learnt even from my boyhood to live beneath my fortune2 and1 dwelling by myself as much as ,i can1 ,i neither sigh for nor seek aught that is outside me4 ,it has been said that ,drummond's three stars were ,philosophy1 ,friendship1 and ,love4 ,some three or four years after the poet began his contented life at ,hawthornden1 the latter star began to shine so brightly as to eclipse the other two4 ,in #afad he met an attractive girl of seventeen or eighteen1 the daughter of ,alexander ,cunningham1 of ,barns1 a country-seat on a little stream known as the ,ore1 in ,fifeshire1 on the opposite side of the ,firth of ,forth4 ,his poems began at once to reveal the extent to which the loveliness of the fair ,euphame had taken possession of him3-- ,vaunt not1 fair ,heavens1 of your two glorious lights1 ,which1 though most bright1 yet see not when they shine1 ,and shining cannot show their beams divine ,both in one place1 but part by days and nights2 ,earth1 vaunt not of those treasures ye enshrine1 ,held only dear because hid from our sights1 ,your pure and burnished gold your diamonds fine1 ,snow-passing ivory that the eye delights2 ,nor1 ,seas1 of those dear wares are in you found2 ,vaunt not rich pearl1 red coral1 which do stir ,a fond desire in fools to plunge your ground4 ,those all more fair are to be had in her3 ,pearl1 ivory1 coral1 diamond1 suns1 gold1 ,teeth1 neck1 lips1 heart1 eyes1 hair1 are to behold4 ,on seeing her in a boat on the ,forth he declared her perfection3-- ,slide soft1 fair ,forth1 and make a crystal plain2 ,cut your white locks1 and on your foaming face ,let not a wrinkle be1 when you embrace ,the boat that earth's perfections doth contain4 ,the river ,ore1 on the banks of which he first met his lady-love1 became to ,drummond the greatest river in the world4 ,in one sonnet he compares the tiny stream with every famous river from the ,arno to the ,nile2 and finds that none of them ,have ever had so rare a cause of praise4 ,unfortunately1 his happiness was of brief duration1 for on the very eve of the marriage1 the young lady died4 ,drummond's grief was intense4 ,one can almost imagine him mournfully gazing down the beautiful glen1 which she might have enjoyed with him1 and exclaiming-- ,trees1 happier far than ,i1 ,that have the grace to heave your heads so high1 ,and overlook those plains2 ,grow till your branches kiss that lofty sky ,which her sweet self contains4 ,then make her know my endless love and pains ,and how those tears1 which from mine eyes do fall ,helpt you to rise so tall4 ,tell her1 as once ,i for her sake loved breath ,so1 for her sake1 ,i now court lingering death4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,sycamore ,for some years after her death1 ,euphame was to ,drummond what ,beatrice was to ,dante--the inspirer of all that was good in him4 ,later in life he married ,elizabeth ,logan1 a lady who was said to resemble ,euphame ,cunningham1 and she became the mother of his five sons and four daughters4 ,in front of the mansion of ,hawthornden is a venerable sycamore1 said to be five hundred years old4 ,in the month of ,january1 #afai1 according to a favorite and oft-told story1 ,drummond was sitting beneath this tree1 when he saw and recognized the huge form of ,ben ,jonson1 as that rollicking hero sauntered toward him along the private road4 ,jonson had walked all the way from ,london to see what could be seen in ,scotland1 and one of the attractions had been an invitation from ,drummond1 who was now beginning to be known in ,england1 to spend two or three weeks at his home4 ,as he approached1 ,drummond arose and greeted him heartily1 saying1-- ,welcome1 welcome1 royal ,ben6 ,to which ,jonson quickly replied replied-- ,thankee1 thankee1 ,hawthornden6 ,upon which they both laughed and felt well acquainted at once4 ,the contrast between these two men1 as they stood under the old sycamore1 must have been strongly marked4 ,drummond1 quiet1 reserved1 and gentle in manner--,jonson1 boisterous and offensively vulgar3 ,drummond1 well dressed and refined in appearance--,jonson1 fat1 coarse1 and slovenly2 ,drummond1 a country gentleman1 accustomed to live well1 but always within his means1 caring little for society1 a man of correct habits and strict piety1 and later in life a loving husband and a tender father--,jonson1 the dictator of literary ,london1 who waved his scepter in the ,devil ,tavern in ,fleet ,street1 egotistical and quarrelsome1 self-assertive1 a bully in disposition1 his life a perpetual round of dissipation and debt1 his means of livelihood dependent on luck or favor1 and his greatest enjoyment centering in association with those who1 like himself1 were most at home in the theaters and taverns of the great bustling city4 ,yet both were poets and men of genius1 though in different ways4 ,in spite of his peculiarities1 ,drummond found rare ,ben ,jonson a most interesting companion4 ,he kept a close record of the conversations which passed between them1 and might well be called the father of modern interviewing4 ,but unlike the interviewer of to-day1 ,drummond did not rush to the nearest telegraph station to get his story on the wire and scoop his contemporaries4 ,there were no telegraphs nor newspapers to call for such effort1 and ,drummond had too much respect for the courtesy due a guest to think of publishing their private talks4 ,but a portion of the material was published in #agaa1 long after ,drummond's death1 and probably the whole of it in #ahcb4 ,these conversations with one who knew intimately most of the literary leaders of his time have proved invaluable4 ,they contain ,ben's opinions of nearly everybody--,queen ,elizabeth1 the ,earl of ,leicester1 ,king ,james1 ,spenser1 ,raleigh1 ,shakespeare1 ,bacon1 ,drayton1 ,beaumont1 ,chapman1 ,fletcher1 and many other contemporaries4 ,most of all they contain his opinion of himself and his writings1 which needless to say is quite exalted4 ,with no thought of his notes being published1 ,drummond allowed himself perfect frankness in writing about his guest4 ,his summary of the impression made by ,ben's visit is as follows3-- ,he is a great lover and praiser of himself2 a contemner and scorner of others2 given rather to lose a friend than a jest2 jealous of every word and action of those about him 7especially after drink1 which is one of the elements in which he liveth72 a dissembler of ill parts which reign in him1 a bragger of some good that he wanteth2 thinketh nothing well but what either he himself or some of his friends and countrymen hath said or done3 he is passionately kind and angry2 careless either to gain or keep2 vindictive1 but1 if he be well answered1 at himself4 ,for any religion1 as being versed in both4 ,interpreted best sayings and deeds often to the worst4 ,oppressed with phantasy which hath ever mastered his reason1 a general disease in many poets4444 ,he was in his personal character the very reverse of ,shakespeare1 as surly1 ill-natured1 proud and disagreeable as ,shakespeare1 with ten times his merit1 was gentle1 good-natured1 easy1 and amiable4 ,jonson expressed with equal frankness his opinion of ,drummond1 to whom he said that he was too good and simple1 and that oft a man's modesty made a fool of his wit4 ,drummond as a poet was classed by ,robert ,southey and ,thomas ,campbell in the highest rank of the ,british poets who appeared before ,milton4 ,his sonnets1 which are remarkable for their exquisite delicacy and tenderness1 won for him the title of the ,scottish ,petrarch4 ,it has been said that they come as near to perfection as any others of this kind of writing and that as a sonneteer ,drummond is surpassed only by ,shakespeare1 ,milton1 and ,wordsworth among the poets who have written in ,english4 ,before taking leave of the ,scottish poet and his picturesque home1 we paused for a few minutes to visit the wondrous caverns1 cut out of the solid rock upon which the house is built4 ,antiquarians have insisted that these caves date back to the time of the ,picts1 at least as far as the ninth or tenth century4 ,this1 too1 was the popular understanding before the scientists offered their opinion4 ,in a curious old volume1 published in #agec1b we are told3-- ,underneath the house of ,drummond are the noted ,caverns of ,hawthorn-,den1 by ,dr4 ,stuckely in his ,itinerarium-,curiosa1 said to have been the ,king of ,pictlands ,castle or ,palace2 which nothing can shew the ,doctor's ,credulity more than by suffering himself to be imposed upon by the ,tattle of the ,vulgar1 who in all things they cannot account for1 are ascribed to the ,picts1 without the least ,foundation4 ,for those caves1 instead of having been a ,castle or ,palace1 ,i take them either to have been a ,receptacle for ,robbers1 or ,places to secure the ,people and their ,effects in1 during the destructive ,wars between the ,picts and ,english1 and ,scots and ,english4 ,during the contests between ,bruce and ,baliol for the ,scottish crown1 these caves became a place of refuge for ,bruce and his friends1 and one of the rooms is still pointed out as ,bruce's bedchamber4 ,here1 too1 are labyrinthine paths ,to caverns dark and low1 ,wherein they say ,king ,robert ,bruce ,found refuge from his foe4 ,in the walls are many square holes1 from twelve to eighteen inches deep1 supposed to have been used as cupboards4 ,on a rough table near one of the openings is a rude and very much damaged desk1 said to have been the property of ,john ,knox4 ,leaving these gloomy resorts of ancient heroes--perhaps of ancient robbers--we sought a brighter and more cheerful scene4 ,descending the path we reached a bridge over the ,esk on which is a gate that permitted us to leave ,hawthornden1 although it does not allow wanderers on the other side to enter4 ,the bridge gave a fine opportunity for a farewell view of the grand old mansion1 high in the air at the top of the cliff1 which we were now viewing from below4 ,a delightful stroll along the left bank of the stream for about two miles brought us to ,roslin ,castle1 situated on a rocky promontory high above the river4 ,at the point of the peninsula the river is narrowed by a large mass of reddish sandstone over which it falls4 ,when flooded this becomes a beautiful cascade1--whence the name1 ,ross1 a ,gaelic word meaning promontory or jutting rock1 and ,lyn1 a waterfall1--the ,rock of the ,waterfall4 ,the ,esk1 where it forms the cascade1 is still called the ,lynn4 ,the view from the promontory is one of the most delightful to be imagined4 ,the banks are precipitous and covered with a luxurious growth of natural wood4 ,the vale seems to be crowded with every possible combination of trees and cliffs1 foliage and sparkling stream1 that nature can put together to form a region of romantic suggestion4 ,illustration3 ,,ruins ,,of ,,roslin ,,castle ,little now remains of the ancient castle of ,roslin1 which was formerly two hundred feet long and ninety feet wide4 ,a few ivy-covered walls and towers may still be seen1 in the midst of which is a more modern dwelling rebuilt in #afec4 ,the ancient foundation walls1 nine feet thick1 still visible below the surface1 and the almost inaccessible location of the castle tell the story of its original purpose4 ,a huge kitchen1 with the fireplace alone occupying as much space as the entire kitchen of one of our modern houses1 suggests the lavish scale upon which the establishment was once conducted4 ,the castle was built by a family of ,st4 ,clairs1 whose ancestor1 ,waldernus de ,st4 ,clair1 came over with the ,conqueror4 ,william ,st4 ,clair1 ,baron of ,roslin1 ,earl of ,caithness and ,prince of the ,orkneys1 who flourished in the middle of the fifteenth century1 was one of the most famous of these barons4 ,he lived in the magnificence of royal state4 ,he kept a great court and was royally served at his own table in vessels of gold and silver4444 ,he had his halls and other apartments richly adorned with embroidered hangings4 ,his princess1 ,elizabeth ,douglas1 was served by seventy-five gentlewomen1 whereof fifty-three were daughters of noblemen1 all clothed in velvet and silks1 with their chains of gold1 and other ornaments2 and was attended by two hundred riding gentlemen in all her journeys2 and if it happened to be dark when she went to ,edinburgh1 where her lodgings were at the foot of the ,black ,friar's ,wynd1 eighty lighted torches were carried before her4#c ,the castle was accidentally set on fire in #addg and badly damaged1 and was leveled to the ground by ,english forces under the ,earl of ,hertford1 in #aedd1 who was sent to ,scotland by ,henry ,,viii to seek to enforce the marriage of his son ,edward to the infant ,mary of ,scotland1 the daughter of ,james ,v4 ,in #afej it was again destroyed1 during ,cromwell's campaign in ,scotland1 by ,general ,monk1 and rising again1 suffered severely at the hands of a mob from ,edinburgh in #afhh4 ,it was ,william ,st4 ,clair1 the feudal baron above referred to1 who built the exquisitely beautiful chapel which stands not far from the castle4 ,the same ancient manuscript1 previously quoted1 informs us that ,his age creeping on him made him consider how he had spent his time past1 and how to spend that which was to come4 ,therefore to the end he might not seem altogether unthankfull to ,god for the benefices receaved from ,him1 it came in his minde to build a house for ,god's service of most curious work1 the which1 that it might be done with greater glory and splendour he caused artificers to be brought from other regions and forraigne kingdoms and caused dayly to be abundance of all kinde of workemen present1 etc41 etc4 ,the foundation of ,roslin ,chapel was laid in #addf4 ,it was originally intended to be a cruciform structure with a high central tower4 ,the existing chapel is1 therefore1 really only a small part of what the church was meant to be4 ,its style is called florid ,gothic1 but this is probably for want of a better name4 ,there is no other piece of architecture like it in the world4 ,it is a medley of all architectures1 the ,egyptian1 ,grecian1 ,roman1 and ,saracenic being intermingled with all kinds of decorations and designs1 some exquisitely beautiful and others quaint and even grotesque4 ,there are thirteen different varieties of the arch4 ,the owner1 who possessed great wealth1 desired novelty4 ,he secured it by engaging architects and builders from all parts of ,europe4 ,the most beautiful feature of the interior is known as the ',prentice's ,pillar4 ,it is a column with richly carved spiral wreaths of beautiful foliage twined about from floor to ceiling4 ,it is said that the master-builder1 when he came to erect this column1 found himself unable to carry out the design1 and traveled to ,rome to see a column of similar description there4 ,when he returned he found that his apprentice had studied the plans in his absence and with greater genius than his own1 had overcome the difficulties and fashioned a pillar more beautiful than any ever before dreamed of4 ,the master1 stung with jealous rage1 struck the apprentice with his mallet1 killing him instantly4 ,this1 at least1 is the accepted legend4 ,the barons of ,roslin were buried beneath the chapel side by side1 encased in their full suits of armor4 ,there was a curious superstition that when one of the family died1 the chapel was enveloped in flames1 but not consumed4 ,this and the uncoffined chiefs are referred to by ,scott in ,the ,lay of the ,last ,minstrel4 ,the lady is lost in the storm while crossing the ,firth on her way to ,roslin3-- ,o'er ,roslin all that dreary night ,a wondrous blaze was seen to gleam2 ',twas broader than the watch-fire light1 ,and redder than the bright moonbeam4 ,it glared on ,roslin's castled rock1 ,it ruddied all the copsewood glen2 ',twas seen from ,dreyden's groves of oak1 ,and seen from caverned ,hawthornden4 ,seemed all on fire that chapel proud ,where ,roslin's chiefs uncoffined lie1 ,each baron1 for a sable shroud1 ,sheathed in his iron panoply4 ,seemed all on fire within1 around1 ,deep sacristy and altar's pale2 ,shone every pillar foliage-bound1 ,and glimmered all the dead men's mail4 ,blazed battlement and pinnet high1 ,blazed every rose-carved buttress fair-- ,so still they blaze when fate is nigh ,the lordly line of high ,st4 ,clair4 ,there are twenty of ,roslin's barons bold ,lie buried within that proud chapelle2 ,each one the holy vault doth hold-- ,but the sea holds lovely ,rosabelle4 ,commemorated by a tablet in the chapel is another interesting legend4 ,robert ,bruce1 ,king of ,scotland1 in following the chase on ,pentland ,hills near ,roslin1 had often started a white faunch deer which invariably escaped from his hounds4 ,in his vexation he asked his nobles whether any of them had hounds which would likely be more successful4 ,all hesitated for fear that the mere suggestion of possessing dogs superior to those of the king might be an offense4 ,but ,sir ,william ,st4 ,clair 7one of the predecessors of the builder of the chapel7 boldly and unceremoniously came forward and said he would wager his head that his two favorite dogs ,hold and ,help would kill the deer before it could cross the ,march burn4 ,the king promptly accepted the rash wager1 and betted the forest of ,pentland ,moor4 ,the hunters reach the heathern steeps and ,sir ,william1 posting himself in the best situation for slipping his dogs1 prayed devoutly to ,christ1 the ,virgin ,mary1 and ,st4 ,katherine4 ,the deer is started1 the hounds are slipped2 when ,sir ,william spurs his gallant steed and cheers the dogs4 ,the deer reaches the middle of the ,march-burn brook1 the hounds are still in the rear1 and our hero's life is at its crisis4 ,an awful moment2 the hunter threw himself from his horse in despair and ,fate seemed to sport with his feelings4 ,at the critical moment ,hold fastened on the game1 and ,help coming up1 turned the deer back and killed it close by ,sir ,william's side4 ,the generous monarch embraced the knight and bestowed on him the lands of ,kirktown1 ,logan ,house1 ,earnsham1 etc41 in free forestrie4#d ,the grateful ,sir ,william erected a chapel to ,st4 ,katherine1 at the spot1 to commemorate the saint's intervention4 ,one more tale of ,roslin remains to be told4 ,not far away1 on ,roslin ,moor1 occurred one of the famous battles of ,scottish history4 ,there were really three battles1 all fought in one day1 the #bdth of ,february1 #acjc4 ,three divisions of the ,english army1 consisting of thirty thousand men1 were successively attacked by the valiant ,scots with only ten thousand men1 who1 after overpowering the first division1 attacked the second1 and then the third1 defeating all three in the same day4 ,and so1 with history and legend1 poetry and romance1 real life and fiction1 the glory of nature's art and the achievements of human handicraft all happily intermingled in our thought and blended into one pleasant memory1 we brought to its close our walk through the valley of the ,esk1 from ,hawthornden to ,roslin ,glen4 ,,footnotes3 #b ,maitland's ,history of ,scotland4 #c ,from an old manuscript1 in the ,advocates' ,library1 collection of ,richard ,augustine ,hay4 #d ,britton's ,architectural ,antiquities4 ,v ,,the ,,country ,,of ,,mrs4 ,,humphry ,,ward ,v ,,the ,,country ,,of ,,mrs4 ,,humphry ,,ward ,i ,,mrs4 ,,ward ,,and ,,her ,,work ',why does any one stay in ,england who can make the trip to ,paradise8' said the duchess1 as she leaned lazily back in the corner of the boat and trailed her fingers in the waters of ,como4 ,these words from ,lady ,rose's ,daughter came to mind as we glided swiftly in a little motor-boat1 late in the afternoon of a perfect ,april day1 over the smooth waters of ,como and into the arm of the lake known as ,lecco1 where we were to enjoy our cup of tea in a little latteria high up on a rocky crag4 ,in the stern sat ,mrs4 ,ward1 looking the picture of contentment1 a light summer hat with simple trimmings giving an almost girlish aspect to a face in which strong intellectuality and depth of moral purpose were clearly the predominating features4 ,a day's work done1--for ,mrs4 ,ward goes to ,como for work1 not play1--this little trip across the lake was one of her favorite recreations1 in which1 for the time1 we were hospitably permitted to share4 ,about us were the scenes enchanted1 incomparable1 which are best described in the words of ,mrs4 ,ward herself3-- ,when ,spring descends upon the shores of the ,lago di ,como1 she brings with her all the graces1 all the beauties1 all the fine1 delicate1 and temperate delights of which earth and sky are capable1 and she pours them forth upon a land of perfect loveliness4 ,around the shores of other lakes--,maggiore1 ,lugano1 ,garda--blue mountains rise and the vineyards spread their green and dazzling terraces to the sun4 ,only ,como can show in unmatched union a main composition1 incomparably grand and harmonious1 combined with every jeweled or glowing or exquisite detail4 ,nowhere do the mountains lean towards each other in such an ordered splendor as that which bends around the northern shores of ,como4 ,nowhere do buttressed masses rise behind each other1 to right and left of a blue waterway1 in lines statelier or more noble than those kept by the mountains of ,lecco ,lake as they marshal themselves on either hand1 along the approaches to ,lombardy and ,venetia4 ,illustration3 ,,mrs4 ,,humphry ,,ward ,,and ,,miss ,,dorothy ,,ward 444 ,and within this divine framework1 between the glistening snows which still1 in ,april1 crown and glorify the heights1 and those reflections of them which lie encalmed in the deep bosom of the lake1 there's not a foot of pasture1 not a shelf of vineyard1 not a slope of forest1 where the spring is not at work1 dyeing the turf with gentians1 starring it with narcissuses1 or drawing across it the first golden network of the chestnut leaves2 where the mere emerald of the grass is not in itself a thing to refresh the very springs of being2 where the peach-blossom and the wild cherry and the olive are not perpetually weaving patterns on the blue which ravish the very heart out of your breast4 ,and already the roses are beginning to pour over the wall2 the wistaria is climbing up the cypresses2 a pomp of camellias and azaleas is in all the gardens2 while in the glassy bays that run up into the hills the primrose banks still keep their sweet austerity1 and the triumph of spring over the just banished winter is still sharp and new4 ,it was in a garden such as this1 with a wild cherry tree and olives perpetually weaving patterns against the blue sky1 that we first met ,mrs4 ,ward4 ,it was a balmy ,april morning4 ,the scent of spring was in the air1 and the birds were adding their melody to the beauty of the landscape4 ,the villa stands well up the slope of a high hill and is reached by a winding path through fragrant trees4 ,a little below the level of the house is a shady nook1 well sheltered from the sun1 from which the high mountains of the north and the blue glimmer of the lake beneath can be plainly seen4 ,here we were greeted by the novelist in terms of cordiality that instantly made us feel at home4 ,there was no posing1 none of that condescension which some writers had led us to expect4 ,we were simply welcomed as friends1 with a perfect hospitality that seemed to be born of the tranquil beauty all about us4 ,mrs4 ,ward is a woman of rather more than medium height and of erect and graceful carriage4 ,her manner is dignified1 but it is the dignity of one properly conscious of her own strength and is never repellent4 ,one cannot help feeling that he is in the presence of a distinguished person--one who has justly earned a world-wide fame--and yet one in whom the attributes of true womanliness reign supreme4 ,you are proud of the honor of her friendship1 and yet you cannot help thinking what an excellent neighbor she would be4 ,the instinct which impels ,mrs4 ,ward to seek such scenes of beauty as ,lake ,como in which to do her writing came to her naturally1 for her childhood was spent in one of the most beautiful parts of all ,england1 ,westmoreland1 the home of ,wordsworth and of ,ruskin4 ,here ,arnold of ,rugby made his home in a charmingly situated cottage known as ,fox ,how4 ,fox1 in the language of ,westmoreland1 means fairy1 and how is hill4 ,a fairy hill indeed it must have seemed to ,dr4 ,arnold's little granddaughter ,mary1 when as a child of five she was brought there by her father from far-away ,tasmania1 where she was born4 ,the ,english ,lakes are famous for their beauty1 but there is no more delightful spot in all the region than the valley under ,loughrigg1 and no lovelier river than the ,rothay1 rippling over the smooth pebbles from ,wordsworth's beloved ,rydal ,water down to the more pretentious grandeur of ,lake ,windermere4 ,the impressions of her childhood created in the future novelist an intense love of these streams and mountains1 which only increased with her absence and the enlargement of her field of vision4 ,when she was the mother of a little girl of seven and a boy of four1 she determined to give to them the same impressions which had delighted her own childhood1 and the family made an ever-memorable visit from ,oxford1 where they were then living1 to the vicinity of ,fox ,how--a visit which all children may enjoy who will read the pretty little story of ,milly and ,olly4 ,mary ,augusta ,arnold was born in ,tasmania on the #aath of ,june1 #ahea4 ,her father1 ,thomas ,arnold1 second son of ,dr4 ,arnold of ,rugby and brother of ,matthew ,arnold1 was at that time ,inspector of ,schools in the far-away island4 ,he had married the granddaughter of ,colonel ,sorell1 a former ,governor of ,tasmania1 and no doubt intended to remain there permanently4 ,but1 becoming interested1 even at that distance1 in the so-called ,oxford ,movement of the middle of the last century1 he determined to return to ,england1 where he followed ,newman and others into the ,roman ,catholic ,church1 accepting a professorship of ,english ,literature in the ,catholic ,university of ,dublin4 ,his daughter ,mary1 the eldest of six1 was sent to ,ambleside to be educated4 ,in #ahfe1 having renounced the ,catholic faith1 ,mr4 ,arnold took up his residence at ,oxford4 ,here his eldest daughter1 at the age of fourteen1 came under the influence of the friendships and associations which were to have so potent an influence upon her future career4 ,the most important of these were ,professor ,mark ,pattison and the ,bodleian ,library4 ,professor ,pattison strongly urged her to specialize her studies1 and acting upon his suggestion1 she learned the ,spanish language and began a course of study in ,spanish literature and history1 in which she found the facilities of the ,bodleian ,library invaluable4 ,in #ahgb she became the wife of ,mr4 ,thomas ,humphry ,ward1 then a fellow and tutor in ,brasenose ,college4 ,during the ensuing ten or eleven years ,mrs4 ,ward assisted her husband in his literary work and contributed largely to the ,pall ,mall ,gazette1 the ,saturday ,review1 the ,academy1 and other magazines1 besides publishing the little book for children already referred to1 ,milly and ,olly4 ,illustration3 ,,under ,,loughrigg ,in #ahha ,mr4 ,ward accepted a position on the staff of the ,times1 and the family removed to ,london4 ,for several years they occupied a house in ,russell ,square1 which ,mrs4 ,ward still regards with fond memories1 later removing to their present town house1 ,no4 #be ,grosvenor ,place4 ,but ,mrs4 ,ward's love of nature is too intense for an uninterrupted residence in ,london1 and she possesses an ideal country home some thirty miles away1 near the little village of ,aldbury1 known as ,stocks4 ,this large and beautiful estate is ancient enough to be mentioned in ,domesday ,book4 ,its name does not come from the old stocks used as an instrument of punishment1 which may still be seen in the village1 although this is a common supposition4 ,stocks is derived from the ,german stock1 meaning stick or tree1 and refers to the magnificent grove by which the house is surrounded4 ,before ,stocks became a possibility1 ,mrs4 ,ward usually managed to choose a summer home in the country1 and these choices are most interestingly reflected in her novels4 ,during the ,oxford residence ,surrey was a favorite resort for seven years1 its atmosphere entering largely into the composition of ,miss ,bretherton and ,robert ,elsmere4 ,two nights spent at a farm on the ,kinderscout gave ample material for the opening chapter of the ,history of ,david ,grieve4 ,the lease for a season of ,hampden ,house1 in ,buckinghamshire1 gave the original for ,mellor ,park in ,marcella1 and a visit near ,crewe fixed the scenes of ,sir ,george ,tressady4 ,helbeck of ,bannisdale was the result of a summer spent in the delightful home of ,captain ,bagot1 of ,levens ,hall1 near ,kendal4 ,summers in ,italy and ,switzerland gave most charming scenery for ,lady ,rose's ,daughter and ,eleanor1 and1 to a less degree1 ,the ,marriage of ,william ,ashe4 ,the cottage of her youngest daughter1 ,dorothy1 near the ,langdale ,pikes1 suggested the home of ,fenwick1 while ,diana ,mallory found her home in ,stocks itself4 ,thus the creatures of ,mrs4 ,ward's fancy have simply lived in the places which she knew the best4 ,they are all scenes of beauty1 for ,mrs4 ,ward loves the beautiful in nature1 and has spent her life where this yearning could be most fully gratified4 ,but if ,mrs4 ,ward seeks the country as the best place for literary work1 she is not idle when in the city4 ,if any one imagines her to be merely a society woman with a genius for literature1 he is making a serious mistake4 ,outside of society and literature she is a busy woman1 bent on the accomplishment of a task which few would have the courage to assume4 ,her ideal is best expressed in the closing words of ,robert ,elsmere3-- ,the ,new ,brotherhood still exists1 and grows4 ,there are many who imagined that1 as it had been raised out of the earth by ,elsmere's genius1 so it would sink with him4 ,not so6 ,he would have fought the struggle to victory with surpassing force1 with a brilliancy and rapidity none after him could rival4 ,but the struggle was not his4 ,his effort was but a fraction of the effort of the race4 ,in that effort1 and in the ,divine force behind it1 is our trust1 as was his4 ,these words1 written nearly a quarter of a century ago1 were truly prophetic4 ,for ,mrs4 ,ward not only possesses the kind of genius from which an ,elsmere could be created1 but is gifted with a rare capacity for business1 which has enabled her to crystallize the ideals of her work of fiction into a substantial and permanent institution for practical benevolence4 ,she was already interested in settlement work among the poor of ,london during the writing of the novel4 ,but in #ahia1 after the storm of criticism which the book aroused had subsided1 its suggestions began to take definite shape in the organization of the ,passmore ,edwards ,settlement1 in ,university ,hall1 in ,gordon ,square4 ,in #ahih the work was moved to its present quarters in ,tavistock ,place1 where1 under the leadership of ,mrs4 ,ward and through the generosity of herself and the friends whom she had been able to influence1 a large and substantial building was erected4 ,directly in the rear of the building is a large garden owned by the ,duke of ,bedford1 who recently placed it at the disposal of the ,settlement1 keeping it in order at his own expense1 resowing the grass every year to keep it fresh and thick4 ,here in the vacation season one thousand children daily enjoy the luxury of sitting and walking on the grass1 and that in the heart of central ,london4 ,the garden occupies the site of ,dickens's ,tavistock ,house4 ,one cannot help imagining the author of ,little ,nell sitting there in spirit while troops of happy ,london children pass in review4 ,the land here placed entirely at the disposal of ,mrs4 ,ward and the warden of the ,settlement is worth not less than half a million dollars4 ,twenty-seven teachers1 under the direction of a competent supervisor1 give instruction in organized out-of-door exercises4 ,this was the first of the recreation schools or play centers4 ,handwork occupations1 such as cooking--both for girls and boys--sewing1 knitting1 basket-work1 carpentering1 cobbling1 clay modeling1 painting and drawing2 dancing combined with old ,english songs and nursery rhymes2 musical drill and gymnastics2 quiet games and singing games2 acting2 and a children's library of story-books and picture-books--these are the provisions which have been made for the fortunate children of that locality4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,passmore ,,edwards ,,settlement ,,house ,the entire purpose of such play centers is to rescue the children of the poor from the demoralization that results from being turned out to play after school hours in the streets and alleyways1 where they are subjected to every kind of vile association and influence4 ,the effects already noted by those in charge of the centers are improvement in manners1 in thoughtfulness for the little ones1 and in unselfishness2 increase in regard for truth and honesty2 the development of the instinct in all children to make something2 the teaching that it is more enjoyable to play together in harmony than when obedience to a leader is refused4 ,the success of this first experiment was so marked that gradually other centers were started in different parts of ,london4 ,liberal sums of money were placed in the hands of ,mrs4 ,ward1 who enlisted the support of the ,county ,council to the extent of securing facilities in the public school buildings4 ,the work has so far progressed that the total attendance last year#e reached an aggregate of six hundred thousand4 ,it is difficult to estimate from these figures how many children were affected1 but1 taking--at a guess--fifty times as the average attendance of each1 this would mean that the lives of at least twelve thousand poor children were directly lifted up by this practical charity1 and that as many more hard-working and anxious parents were indirectly benefited4 ,but ,mrs4 ,ward will not be satisfied until the entire school population of ,london has been made to feel the influence of these play centers4 ,private beneficence1 as she has plainly pointed out1 can never solve the problem4 ,private effort1 said she in a well-known letter to the ,london ,times1 cannot deal with seven hundred and fifty thousand children1 or even with three hundred thousand4 ,if there is a serious and urgent need1 if both the physique and the morale of our town children are largely at stake1 and if private persons can only touch a fraction of the problem1 what remains but to appeal to the public conscience8 ,this is ,mrs4 ,ward's way of doing things4 ,she does not appeal to public authority to accomplish an ideal without first finding a way and proving that it can be done4 ,but1 having clearly demonstrated her proposition at private expense1 she does not rest content with the results so obtained1 but pushes steadily forward toward the larger ideal1 which can be realized only through public support4 ,but the recreation school is only a part of the work of the ,passmore ,edwards ,settlement4 ,during the daytime many of the rooms are used by the ,cripple ,schools4 ,children who are suffering from spinal diseases1 heart trouble1 and deformities of various kinds which prevent attendance at the regular schools are daily brought to the ,settlement in ambulances4 ,here the little ones do all kinds of kindergarten work1 while the older ones are instructed in drawing1 sewing1 bent-iron work1 and other suitable tasks4 ,as an outgrowth of this school twenty-three cripple schools are now in operation in ,london4 ,but it is in the evening that the ,passmore ,edwards ,settlement is seen to best advantage4 ,there is a large library containing some three thousand volumes1 which are kept in active use4 ,on ,monday nights two tables in this room are the centers of busy groups4 ,these represent the coal club1 a businesslike charity of a very practical kind4 ,the club buys a large quantity of coal in the summer-time1 when it can be obtained cheapest4 ,as a large consumer1 it usually gets every possible concession4 ,the members of this club can buy the coal in small quantities as wanted1 or as they are able to pay for it1 at any time during the year1 at the summer price of one shilling one and a half pence per hundred weight 7twenty-seven cents74 ,if bought during the winter in the ordinary way1 they would have to pay perhaps five or six pence more--a very substantial saving4 ,thrift is encouraged by allowing members to deposit small sums in the summer to apply against their winter purchases4 ,last year the club transacted a business equal to about #dcjj4 ,the ,poor ,man's ,lawyer is another practical part of the work4 ,once each week free legal advice is given to all who ask it1 and considerable money has been saved to people who1 from ignorance and poverty1 might have been imposed upon4 ,the ,men's ,club1 the ,boys' ,club1 the ,factory ,girls' ,club1 and the ,women's ,club are all actively engaged in performing the usual functions of such organizations4 ,there is a gymnasium where boys and girls1 men and women1 all have their regular turns of systematic instruction4 ,an orchestra of a dozen pieces and a choral society of forty members1 together with a dramatic society1 give opportunity for many to take part in numerous concerts and entertainments4 ,a large hall is the scene nearly every night of some kind of social amusement4 ,the room is decorated with many pictures1 all reproductions of the best works of art1 while around the walls are placed busts in marble of ,emerson1 ,james ,martineau1 ,dickens1 ,matthew ,arnold1 ,benjamin ,jowett1 and ,sir ,william ,herschel--the gift of ,mr4 ,passmore ,edwards4 ,there is a large stage for dramatic performances1 drills1 etc41 with a piano and a good organ4 ,there are tables where the members may play cards1 smoke1 or have light refreshments4 ,on ,sunday nights there are concerts or lectures4 ,the whole atmosphere of the place is attractive to the men and women who frequent it4 ,there is no obtrusive piety1 no patronizing air1 nothing to offend the pride of the poor man who values his self-esteem1 yet all the influences of the place are elevating4 ,the whole spirit of the ,settlement is expressed in these words1 displayed in a framed notice at the entrance to the social hall3-- ,we believe that many changes in the conditions of life and labour are needed1 and are coming to pass2 but we believe also that men1 without any change except in themselves and in their feelings towards one another1 might make this world a better and a happier place4 ,therefore1 with the same sympathies but different experiences of life1 we meet to exchange ideas and to discuss social questions1 in the hope that1 as we learn to know one another better1 a feeling of fellowship may arise among us4 ,to these ends we have a ,library1 ,clubs1 ,lectures1 ,classes1 ,entertainments1 etc41 and we endeavour to make the ,settlement a centre where we may unite our several resources in a social and intellectual home4 ,in all this work ,mrs4 ,humphry ,ward is the inspiration1 and a moving1 active spirit4 ,her name stands next to that of the wealthy ,duke of ,bedford as the most liberal contributor4 ,she is the ,honorable ,secretary of the ,council1 a member of the ,finance ,committee1 president of the ,women's ,club1 etc4 ,but these are only her official positions4 ,her directing hand is manifest in every branch of the work1 and1 from the warden down to the humblest member of the ,girls' ,club1 her name is accorded a respect amounting almost to reverence4 ,but1 as with the play centers1 ,mrs4 ,ward is not content with the work of this one institution1 splendid as it is4 ,to her it is only the means of ascertaining the way4 ,she feels that she is dealing with a great problem1 and her method is to ascertain1 first of all1 the best solution1 and then to use her large influence to induce others to take up the work4 ,thus the ,new ,brotherhood of ,robert ,elsmere has not only continued to exist for a quarter of a century1 but has in it the elements of growth which will make it a vital power in human society long after the real ,robert ,elsmere1 in the person of ,mrs4 ,ward1 has ceased to be the directing force4 ,,ii ,,the ,,real ,,robert ,,elsmere ,in seeking to point out the real persons and places of ,mrs4 ,ward's novels1 it is only fair to the author to begin with her own statement as to the story-teller's method of procedure3-- ,an idea1 a situation1 is suggested to him by real life1 he takes traits and peculiarities from this or that person whom he has known or seen1 but that is all4 ,when he comes to write 444 the mere necessities of an imaginative effort oblige him to cut himself adrift from reality4 ,his characters become to him the creatures of a dream1 as vivid often as his waking life1 but still a dream4 ,and the only portraits he is drawing are portraits of phantoms1 of which the germs were present in reality1 but to which he himself has given voice1 garb1 and action4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,lime ,,walk ,it is my purpose to point out some of these germs of reality in ,mrs4 ,ward's work1 relying for the essential facts1 at least1 upon information given me personally by the novelist herself4 ,for ,mrs4 ,ward does not hesitate to admit that certain characters were drawn from real life2 but she insists upon a proper understanding of the exact sense in which this is true4 ,because ,miss ,bretherton was suggested by the career of ,mary ,anderson it does not follow that all that is said of the former is true of the latter4 ,there is a vast difference between a suggestion and a portrait4 ,the thoughts and feelings or the personal characteristics of a certain individual may suggest a character who in his physical aspects1 his environment1 and the events of his career may be conceived as an individual totally different4 ,mrs4 ,ward's novels contain no portraits and no history4 ,but they abound in characters suggested by people whom she has known1 in incidents and reminiscences of real life1 and in vivid word-pictures of scenes which she has learned to love or of places with which she is personally familiar4 ,a study of the scenery of these novels properly begins in the ,county of ,surrey4 ,about four miles southwest of ,godalming is ,borough ,farm1 an old-fashioned brick house1 which we reached by a drive over country that seemed in places almost like a desert--so wild and forsaken that one could scarcely believe it to be within a few miles of some of the busiest suburbs of ,london4 ,but it has a splendid beauty of its own4 ,the thick gorse with its golden blossoms everywhere waves a welcome4 ,there are now and then great oaks to greet you1 and graceful patches of white birch4 ,and everywhere is a delightfully exhilarating sense of freedom and fresh air such as only this kind of open country can suggest4 ,here ,mrs4 ,ward lived for seven summers1 finding in the country round about some of the most interesting of the scenes of her first novel1 ,miss ,bretherton1 and of ,robert ,elsmere4 ,miss ,bretherton was published in #ahhd4 ,mary ,anderson was at that time the reigning success on the ,london stage1 while ,sarah ,bernhardt1 in ,paris1 was startling the world with an art of a totally different character4 ,the beauty of the young ,american actress was the one subject of conversation4 ,was it her beauty that attracted the crowds to the theater1 and that alone8 ,was she totally lacking in that consummate art which the great ,frenchwoman admittedly possessed8 ,these questions suggested to ,mrs4 ,ward the theme of her first attempt at fiction4 ,the beautiful ,miss ,bretherton is taken in hand by a party of friends representing the highest types of culture4 ,in their effort to give her mind and body much-needed rest from the exactions of ,london society she is carried away on two notable excursions4 ,the first is to ,surrey1 the real scene of this outing being a place near ,borough ,farm called ,forked ,pond1 well known to ,mrs4 ,ward and her family while residents at the farm4 ,the other is to ,oxford1 where1 after admiring the colleges1 which brought many happy recollections to the gentlemen of the party1 ,miss ,bretherton is taken to ,nuneham ,park1 a beautiful place on the river where a small rustic bridge enhances the romantic character of the surroundings4 ,this1 of course1 was familiar ground to the author1 who spent sixteen happy years in that vicinity as a resident of ,oxford4 ,through the kindness of these friends1 and particularly by the influence of ,kendal1 who becomes her lover1 ,miss ,bretherton is made to take a new view of her art1 and is transformed into an actress of real dramatic power4 ,although a charming story1 ,miss ,bretherton did not prove successful and had little part in making the reputation of the novelist1 who is likely to be known as the author of ',robert ,elsmere1' so long as her fame shall endure4 ,for this great book created a sensation throughout the ,english-speaking world when it appeared1 and aroused controversies which did not subside for many years4 ,the scenery of ,robert ,elsmere combines the ,westmoreland which ,mrs4 ,ward learned to love in her childhood with the ,oxford of her girlhood and early married life1 and the ,surrey where so many pleasant summers were spent4 ,not wishing1 for fear of recognition1 to describe the country near ,ambleside1 with which she was most familiar1 ,mrs4 ,ward placed the scenes of the opening chapters in the neighboring valley of ,long ,sleddale1 giving it the name of ,long ,whindale4 ,whinborough is the city of ,kendal1 and the village of ,shanmoor is ,kentmere4 ,burwood ,farm1 where the ,leyburns lived1 is a house far up the valley1 which still peeps through the trees at the passer-by just as it did in the days when ,robert ,elsmere first met the saintly ,catherine there4 ,a few hundred yards down the stream is a little stone church across the road from a small stone schoolhouse1 and next to the school a gray stone vicarage1 standing high above the little river1 all three bearing the date #ahfc4 ,at sight of this group of buildings one almost expects to catch a glimpse of the well-meaning but not over-wise ,mrs4 ,thornburgh1 sitting in the shade of the vicarage1 awaiting the coming of old ,john ,backhouse1 the carrier1 with the anxiously expected consignment of airy and appetizing trifles from the confectioner's4 ,illustration3 ,,cottage ,,of ,,mary ,,backhouse ,at the extreme end of the valley the road abruptly comes to an end4 ,a stone bridge leads off to the left to a group of three small farms4 ,in front no sign of human habitation meets the eye4 ,the hills seem to come together1 forming a kind of bowl1 and there is no sound to break the stillness save the ripple of the river4 ,it was to this lonely spot that ,catherine was in the habit of walking1 quite alone1 to visit the dying ,mary ,backhouse4 ,the house of ,john and ,jim ,backhouse where ,mary died may still be seen4 ,it is the oldest of the three farms above mentioned4 ,a very small cottage1 it is wedged between a stable on one side and a sort of barn or storehouse on the other1 so that from the road before crossing the bridge it seems to be quite pretentious4 ,the house dates back to #afgj4 ,mary ,backhouse never existed except in imagination1 but ,mrs4 ,ward1 upon seeing the photograph of the house1 exclaimed with much satisfaction1 ,yes1 that is the very house where ,mary ,backhouse died4 ,so real to her are the events described in her novels that ,mrs4 ,ward frequently refers to the scenes in this way4 ,behind the house is a very steep hill1 covered with trees and rough stones4 ,it was over this hill that ,robert and ,catherine walked on the night of ,mary ,backhouse's death4 ,readers of ,robert ,elsmere will remember that poor ,mary was the victim of a strange hallucination4 ,on the night of ,midsummer ,day1 one year before1 she had seen the ghost or bogle of ,bleacliff ,tarn4 ,to see the ghost was terror enough1 but to be spoken to by it was the sign of death within a year4 ,and ,mary had both seen and been spoken to by the ghost4 ,her mind1 so far as she had one1 for she was really half-insane1 was concentrated on the one horrible thought--that on ,midsummer ,night she must die4 ,the night had at last arrived1 and ,catherine1 true to her charitable impulses1 was there to comfort the dying girl4 ,the weather was growing darker and stormier2 the wind shook the house in gusts1 and the farther shoulder of ,high ,fell was almost hidden by the trailing rain-clouds4 ,but ,catherine feared nothing when a human soul was in need1 and1 hoping to pacify the poor woman1 volunteered to go out to the top of the ,fell and over the very track of the ghost at the precise hour when she was supposed to walk1 to prove that there was nothing near but the dear old hills and the power of ,god4 ,as she opened the door of the kitchen1 ,catherine was surprised to find ,robert ,elsmere there1 and together they set out1 over the rough1 stony path1 facing the wind and rain as they climbed the distant fell-side4 ,there ,robert pleaded his love against ,catherine's stern sense of duty1 and won4 ,when ,robert and ,catherine were married1 they went to live at the ,rectory of ,murewell1 in ,surrey4 ,this old house is at ,peper ,harow1 three miles west of ,godalming and a mile or so from ,borough ,farm4 ,it was leased for one summer by ,mrs4 ,ward4 ,a plain1 square house of stone1 much discolored by the weather1 it could hardly be called attractive in itself4 ,but stepping back to the road1 with its picturesque stone wall surmounted by foliage1 and viewing the house as it appears from there1 flanked on the left by a fine spreading elm and on the right by a tall1 pointed fir and a cluster of oaks1 with a little flower garden under the windows and the gracefully curving walk leading past the door in a semicircle stretching from gate to gate1 the ugly house is transformed into a home of beauty1 where ,robert and ,catherine1 one can well imagine1 might have been quite happy and contented with their surroundings4 ,in the rear of the house is the garden1 famous for its phloxes1 the scene of many walks and family confidences4 ,at the farther end is the gate where ,langham poured out the story of his life in passionate speech1 impelled by the equally passionate sympathy of ,rose1 only to recall himself a moment later1 the critic in him making the most bitter1 remorseless mock of all these heroics and despairs the other self had been indulging in4 ,only a short walk from the ,rectory is the little church of ,peper ,harow1 the scene of ,robert's early clerical labors1 and further on is the large and beautiful ,peper ,harow ,park1 the present home of ,lord ,middleton4 ,this attractive park is the original of ,squire ,wendover's1 but the house itself is not described4 ,the fine library owned by the ,squire1 which so delighted ,robert ,elsmere with its many rare books1 was in reality the famous ,bodleian ,library of ,oxford1 with which the author became familiar very early in life4 ,three characters from real life1 each a man of marked individuality1 stand out prominently in the pages of ,robert ,elsmere4 ,these are ,professor ,mark ,pattison1 whose strong personality and scholarly attainments suggested ,squire ,wendover2 ,professor ,thomas ,h4 ,green1 the original of ,mr4 ,grey2 and the melancholy ,swiss philosopher1 poet1 and dreamer ,amiel1 who was the prototype of ,langham4 ,the theme of the novel is the development of ,robert ,elsmere's character and the gradual change of his religious views1 brought about through many a bitter struggle4 ,in this the principal influence was that of ,roger ,wendover1 a typical ,english squire of large possessions1 but1 in addition1 a scholar of the first rank1 the possessor of a large library filled with rare and important volumes of history1 philosophy1 science1 and religion1 with the contents of which he was thoroughly familiar1 and an author of two great books1 one of which had stirred up a tremendous excitement in the circles of ,english religious thought4 ,the ,pentateuch1 the ,prophets1 the ,gospels1 ,st4 ,paul1 ,tradition1 the ,fathers1 ,protestantism and ,justification by ,faith1 the ,eighteenth ,century1 the ,broad ,church ,movement1 ,anglican ,theology--the ,squire had his say about them all4 ,and while the coolness and frankness of the method sent a shock of indignation and horror through the religious public1 the subtle and caustic style1 and the epigrams with which the book was strewn1 forced both the religious and the irreligious public to read1 whether they would or no4 ,a storm of controversy rose round the volumes1 and some of the keenest observers of ,english life had said at the time1 and maintained since1 that the publication of the book had made or marked an epoch4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,rectory ,,of ,,peper ,,harow ,against the influence of such a book1 and more particularly against a growing intimacy with its author1 ,robert ,elsmere felt himself as helpless as a child4 ,the squire's talk was simply the outpouring of one of the richest1 most skeptical1 and most highly trained of minds on the subject of ,christian origins4 ,his two books were1 he said1 merely an interlude in his life-work1 which had been devoted to an exhaustive examination of human records in the preparation of a great ,history of ,testimony which had required learning the ,oriental languages and sifting and comparing the entire mass of existing records of classical antiquity--,india1 ,persia1 ,egypt1 and ,judea--down to the ,renaissance4 ,reference has already been made to the influence of ,professor ,mark ,pattison upon the early life of ,mrs4 ,ward4 ,to create the ,squire she had only to imagine the house in the great park of ,peper ,harow1 equipped with a library like the ,bodleian1 and inhabited by a person who might be otherwise like any ,english squire1 but in mental equipment a duplicate to some extent of the ,rector of ,lincoln4 ,professor ,pattison's father was a strict evangelical4 ,he gave his son a good education1 and the boy early manifested a delight in literature and learning4 ,he soon developed an independence of character1 and1 refusing to confine his reading to the prescribed books of orthodoxy1 delved into the classics extensively as well as the ,english literature of ,pope1 ,addison1 and ,swift4 ,he was graduated at ,oxford in #ahcf1 and took his ,m4,a4 degree in #ahdj4 ,by this time he had abandoned the evangelical teachings of his youth1 and with other young men came under the influence of ,newman1 in whose house he went to live4 ,when ,newman went into the ,roman ,catholic ,church in #ahde1 ,pattison was not so much shocked as others4 ,indeed1 he confessed that he might have dropped off to ,rome himself in some moment of mental and physical depression or under pressure of some arguing convert4 ,but ,pattison1 who was now a ,fellow at ,lincoln ,college1 was thoroughly devoted to his work and was fast gaining a great reputation1 not only for his magnetic influence upon young men1 but as one of the ablest of college tutors and lecturers4 ,in #ahfa he became ,rector of ,lincoln4 ,he was an indefatigable writer1 contributing to many magazines and to the ,encyclopaedia ,britannica4 ,an article on ,tendencies of ,religious ,thought in ,england1 #afhh-agej aroused widespread comment4 ,his literary work was marked by evidences of most painstaking research coupled with a profound scholarship and excellent judgment in the arrangement of his material4 ,he devoted a lifetime to the preparation of a history of learning--a stupendous undertaking of which only a portion was ever completed4 ,he possessed a library said to be the largest private collection of his time in ,oxford4 ,it numbered fourteen thousand volumes1 and was extraordinarily complete in books on the history of learning and philosophy in the sixteenth1 seventeenth1 and eighteenth centuries4 ,of ,professor ,pattison's personality his biographer says3-- ,under a singularly stiff and freezing manner to strangers and to those whom he disliked he concealed a most kindly nature1 full of geniality and sympathy and a great love of congenial and especially of female society4 ,but it was in his intercourse with his pupils and generally with those younger than himself that he was seen to most advantage4 ,his conversation was marked by a delicate irony4 ,his words were few and deliberate but pregnant with meaning and above all stimulating1 and their effect was heightened by perhaps too frequent and1 especially to undergraduates1 somewhat embarrassing flashes of silence4 ,all these qualities are continually appearing in the ,squire4 ,but ,professor ,pattison's own definition of a man of learning is the best description of ,roger ,wendover3-- ,learning is a peculiar compound of memory1 imagination1 scientific habit1 accurate observation1 all concentrated through a prolonged period on the analysis of the remains of literature4 ,the result of this sustained mental endeavor is not a book1 but a man4 ,it cannot be embodied in print2 it consists of the living word4 ,the second in importance of the potent influences upon ,robert ,elsmere's character was that of ,henry ,grey1 a tutor of ,st4 ,anselm's 7,balliol ,college71 ,oxford4 ,very early in his ,oxford career ,elsmere was taken to hear a sermon by ,mr4 ,grey1 which made a deep impression on his mind4 ,the substance of this sermon1 which is briefly summarized in the novel1 was taken from a volume of lay sermons by ,professor ,thomas ,hill ,green1 entitled ,the ,witness of ,god4 ,the whole basis of ,grey's thought was ardently idealist and ,hegelian4 ,he had broken with the popular ,christianity1 but for him ,god1 consciousness1 duty1 were the only realities4 ,none of the various forms of materialist thought escaped his challenge2 no genuine utterance of the spiritual life of man but was sure of his sympathy4 ,it was known that1 after having prepared himself for the ,christian ministry1 he had remained a layman because it had become impossible to him to accept miracle2 and it was evident that the commoner type of ,churchmen regarded him as an antagonist all the more dangerous because he was so sympathetic4 ,all of this1 like all the other references to ,grey throughout the book1 applies perfectly to ,professor ,green4 ,he was the leading exponent at ,oxford of the principles of ,kant and ,hegel1 and attracted many followers4 ,his simplicity1 power1 and earnestness commanded respect4 ,he associated with his pupils on terms of friendly intimacy1 frequently taking some of them with him on his vacations4 ,he was a man of singularly lofty character1 and those who knew him were reminded of ,wordsworth1 whom he resembled in some ways4 ,when ,elsmere is advised by his friend ,newcome to solve all the problems of his doubt by trampling upon himself1 flinging away his freedom1 and stifling his intellect1 these words of ,henry ,grey flash upon his mind3-- ,god is not wisely trusted when declared unintelligible4 ,such honor rooted in dishonor stands2 such faith unfaithful makes us falsely true4 ,god is forever reason2 and his communication1 his revelation1 is reason4 ,the words are taken from the same volume of ,professor ,green's sermons4 ,the death of this dear friend of ,robert ,elsmere occurred in #ahhb1 and is most touchingly described4 ,an old ,quaker aunt was sitting by his bedside3-- ,she was a beautiful old figure in her white cap and kerchief1 and it seemed to please him to lie and look at her4 ,it'll not be for long1 ,henry1 she said to him once4 ,i'm seventy-seven this spring4 ,i shall come to thee soon4 ,he made no reply1 and his silence seemed to disturb her4444 ,thou'rt not doubting the ,lord's goodness1 ,henry8 she said to him1 with the tears in her eyes4 ,no1 he said1 no1 never4 ,only it seems to be his will2 we should be certain of nothing--but ,himself6 ,i ask no more4 ,i shall never forget the accent of these words2 they were the breath of his inmost life4 ,to understand the third of the three characters from real life in ,robert ,elsmere1 it is necessary to glance at the story of ,henri ,frederic ,amiel1 a ,swiss essayist1 philosopher1 and dreamer1 who was born in #ahba and died in #ahha1 leaving as a legacy to his friends a ,journal ,intime covering the psychological observations1 meditations1 and inmost thoughts of thirty years4 ,they represented a prodigious amount of labor1 covering some seventeen thousand folio pages of manuscript4 ,this extensive journal was translated into ,english by ,mrs4 ,ward and published in #ahhc1 five years before the date of ,robert ,elsmere4 ,her long and exhaustive study of the life of this extraordinary man as revealed by himself made a deep impression upon the mind of the novelist--so much so that she could not refrain from introducing him in the person of the morbid ,langham4 ,a brief glance at some of the peculiarities of ,amiel will prove the best interpretation of ,langham1 without which the latter must always remain a mystery4 ,amiel's estimate of the value of his life-work was not a high one4 ,this ,journal of mine1 he said1 represents the material of a good many volumes2 what prodigious waste of thought1 of strength4 ,it will be useful to nobody1 and even for myself it has rather helped me to shirk life than to practice it4 ,and again1 ,is everything ,i have produced taken together1 my correspondence1 these thousands of journal pages1 my lectures1 my articles1 my poems1 my notes of different kinds--anything better than withered leaves8 ,to whom and to what have ,i been useful8 ,will my name survive me a single day8 ,and will it ever mean anything to anybody8 ,a life of no account6 ,when it is all added up1 nothing6 ,amiel1 says ,mrs4 ,ward1 might have been saved from despair by love and marriage1 by paternity1 by strenuous and successful literary production4 ,family life attracted him perpetually4 ,i cannot escape from the ideal of it1 he said4 ,a companion of my life1 of my work1 of my thoughts1 of my hopes2 within1 a common worship--towards the world outside1 kindness and beneficence2 education to undertake2 the thousand and one moral relations which develop around the first--all these ideas intoxicate me sometimes4 ,but in vain4 ,reality1 the present1 the irreparable1 the necessary1 repel and even terrify me4 ,i have too much imagination1 conscience1 and penetration1 and not enough character4 ,the life of thought alone seems to me to have enough elasticity and immensity to be free enough from the irreparable2 practical life makes me afraid4 ,i am distrustful of myself and of happiness because ,i know myself4 ,the ideal poisons for me all imperfect possession1 and ,i abhor all useless regrets and repentances4 ,mrs4 ,ward dramatized this strange individuality in the character of ,langham4 ,the love-scene in which ,langham wins the hand of the beautiful ,rose1 followed by the all-night mental struggle in which he finally feels compelled to renounce all that he has gained1 is almost tragic in its intensity4 ,poor ,langham1 with the prize fairly within his grasp1 found that he lacked the courage to retain it4 ,and so the morning after the proposal1 instead of the pleasantly anticipated call from her accepted lover1 the unfortunate ,rose was shocked to receive a pessimistic letter announcing that the engagement had not survived the night4 ,to the casual reader it would seem that such a man as ,langham would be impossible4 ,but that ,amiel was just such a person his elaborate journal fully reveals4 ,and ,professor ,mark ,pattison has given his testimony that ,amiel was not alone in his experiences1 for six months after the journal was published he wrote1 ,i can vouch that there is in existence at least one other soul which has lived through the same struggles mental and moral as ,amiel4 ,among the very large number of persons who come upon the stage in the action of this remarkable book1 several besides the ,squire1 ,grey1 and ,langham may have been suggested by persons whom the author knew4 ,but the prototypes of these three are the only ones who really enter1 in a vital way1 into the actual construction of the novel4 ,but who was the real ,elsmere8 one naturally asks4 ,many attempts have been made to identify this good preacher or that worthy reformer with the famous character1 much to the annoyance of the author1 who really created ,elsmere out of the influences already described4 ,the real ,elsmere would be obviously one whose religious views were moulded by ,mark ,pattison and ,thomas ,h4 ,green1 and one who was profoundly interested in1 if not influenced by1 the strange self-distrust of ,amiel4 ,the real ,elsmere would be also one whose religious convictions led inevitably to the desire to perform some practical service to mankind4 ,such an ,elsmere exists in the person of ,mrs4 ,ward herself1 who is to-day regarded by the workers and associates of the ,passmore ,edwards ,settlement1 in ,tavistock ,place1 ,london1 with very much the same love and gratitude as ,elsmere won from the people of ,elgood ,street4 ,for this beneficent institution was a direct result of the novel1 and owes its existence very largely to ,mrs4 ,ward's energetic and influential efforts4 ,,iii ,,other ,,people ,,and ,,scenery ,the ,history of ,david ,grieve1 ,mrs4 ,ward's third novel1 is by many considered1 next to ,robert ,elsmere1 her greatest achievement4 ,david and his sister ,louie are the orphan children of a sturdy and high-minded ,englishman whose wife was a ,french woman of somewhat doubtful character4 ,their development from early childhood to full maturity is traced with a power of psychological analysis seldom equaled4 ,both are intensely human and fall easy prey to the temptations of their environment1 but in the end ,david overcomes the evil influences1 while poor ,louie1 inheriting more of her mother's temperament1 goes to her death in poverty and disgrace4 ,the most attractive part of the book is the opening1 where the two children are seen roaming the hills of the wild moorland country of their birth4 ,this is the ,kinderscout region1 in ,derbyshire1 something over twenty miles southeast of ,manchester4 ,the visitor must take the train to ,hayfield1 called ,clough ,end in the novel1 and then1 if he is fortunate enough to have permission from the owner1 may drive a distance of four or five miles to what is now called ,upper ,house1 the country home of a wealthy merchant of ,manchester4 ,this was originally known as ,marriott's ,farm1 and for several hundred years was owned by a family of that name4 ,here ,mrs4 ,ward spent two days1 when the entire house consisted of what is now the right wing4 ,she walked over the moors and along the top of the ,kinderscout with ,mr4 ,marriott as her guide1 and thus obtained the knowledge for the most perfect description of pastoral life to be found in any of her novels4 ,needham's ,farm1 the home of ,david and ,louie1 is the only other farm in the neighborhood4 ,it is now known as the ,lower ,house1 and is owned by the same ,manchester gentleman1 but is leased to a family named ,needham1 who have occupied it for many years4 ,it looks now just as it did when ,mrs4 ,ward described it4 ,the ,owd ,smithy1 where the prayer-meeting was held and ,louie wickedly played the ghost of ,jenny ,crum1 is now only remotely suggested by a heap of rocks bearing little resemblance to a building of any kind4 ,huge mill-stones1 partly embedded in the earth1 are scattered about here and there4 ,the ,downfall1 which1 when the water is coming over1 is visible for miles around1 is ordinarily a bare1 bleak pile of rocks1 for it is usually nearly if not quite dry4 ,but after a heavy rain the water comes over in large volume1 and1 if the wind is strong1 is blown back1 presenting a most curious spectacle of a cascade seeming to disappear in the air when halfway to the bottom4 ,not far away is the ,mermaid's ,pool1 haunted by the ghost of ,jenny ,crum4 ,there is a real ghost story connected with this pool1 which doubtless formed the basis of ,mrs4 ,ward's legend4 ,an old farmer named ,tom ,heys was much troubled by a ghost1 of which he could not rid himself4 ,he once shot at it1 but without effect except that the bullet-mark is in the old house even now4 ,an old woman once saw the ghost while shearing sheep4 ,she threw the tongs at it4 ,instantly the room was filled with flying fleece1 while the woman's clothes were cut to pieces and fell off her body4 ,these were some of the troublesome pranks played by the ghost4 ,at length the farmer discovered1 somewhere on his place1 an old skull1 which doubtless belonged to ,his ,ghostship1 and carried it to the ,mermaid's ,pool1 where he deposited it ,to stay as long as holly's green1 ,and rocks on ,kinderscout are seen4 ,this effectually disposed of the ghost so far as he was concerned1 but the spirit still hovers over the ,mermaid's ,pool4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,rothay ,,and ,,nab ,,scar ,market ,place1 ,manchester1 where we find ,david after his flight from the old farm1 looks to-day very much the same4 ,half ,street1 however1 on the east of the cathedral1 has disappeared4 ,purcell's shop in this street was described from a quaint little book-shop which actually existed at the time4 ,the ,parisian scenes of ,david ,grieve1 the ,louvre1 the ,boulevards1 the ,latin ,quarter1 ,fontainebleau1 ,saint-,germain1 and ,barbizon1 are all too well known to need mention here4 ,the final scenes of the novel1 where ,david's wife is brought after the beginning of her fatal illness1 are in one of the most beautiful localities in the ,english ,lake ,district4 ,lucy's house is supposed to be on the right bank of the river4 ,the house is imaginary 7the one on the left bank having no connection with the story71 but the location is exactly described4 ,this is just above ,pelter ,bridge1 a mile north of ,ambleside1 where the river ,rothay combines with the adjacent hills to make one of those fascinating scenes for which ,westmoreland is famous4 ,nab ,scar looms up before us1 and off to the left is ,loughrigg4 ,a stroll along the river brings one to the little bridge at the outlet of ,rydal ,water1 where ,david walked for quiet meditation during his wife's illness2 and still farther northward the larch plantations on the side of ,silver ,how add their touch of beauty to the landscape4 ,this entire region has always been dear to ,mrs4 ,ward's heart from the associations of her girlhood1 and1 if ,lucy must die1 she could think of no more lovely spot for the last sad scenes4 ,one character in ,david ,grieve is drawn from real life--,elise ,delaunay1 the ,french girl with whom ,david falls in love on his first visit to ,paris4 ,this is1 in some respects1 a portrait of ,marie ,bashkirtseff1 a young native of ,russia1 whose brief career as an artist attracted much notice4 ,marie was born of wealthy parents in #ahfj4 ,when she was only ten years old her mother quarreled with her husband and left him1 taking the children with her4 ,marie returned to her father1 with whom she traveled extensively4 ,a born artist1 the journey through ,italy created in her a new and thrilling interest4 ,she resolved to devote her life to art1 and in #ahgg entered the school of ,julian in ,paris4 ,she soon showed astonishing capacity1 and ,julian assured her that her draughtsmanship was remarkable4 ,one of her paintings1 ,le ,meeting1 was exhibited in the ,salon of #ahhd1 and attracted much notice4 ,reproductions were made in all the leading papers1 and it was finally bought by the cousin of the ,czar1 the ,grand ,duke ,constantino ,constantinowitch1 a distinguished connoisseur and himself a painter4 ,this picture represents half a dozen street gamins of the ordinary ,parisian type holding a conference in the street4 ,their faces exhibit all the seriousness of a group of financiers consulting upon some project of vast importance4 ,the peculiarity of ,marie's character is set forth by her biographer in words which enable the reader of ,david ,grieve instantly to recognize ,elise ,delaunay3-- ,she never wholly yields herself up to any fixed rule of conduct1 or even passion1 being swayed this way or that by the intense impressionability of her nature4 ,she herself recognized this anomaly in the remark1 ,my life can't endure2 ,i have a deal too much of some things and a deal too little of others1 and a character not made to last4 ,the very intensity of her desire to see life at all points seems to defeat itself1 and she cannot help stealing side glances at ambition during the most romantic tete-a-tete with a lover1 or being tortured by visions of unsatisfied love when art should have engrossed all her faculties4 ,in the last year of her life ,marie achieved an admiration for ,bastien-,lepage which1 her biographer says1 has a suspicious flavour of love about it4 ,it is the strongest1 sweetest1 most impassioned feeling of her existence4 ,she died in #ahhd1 at the early age of twenty-four1 assured by ,bastien-,lepage that no other woman had ever accomplished so much at her age4 ,marcella and ,sir ,george ,tressady are novels of ,english social and political life--a field in which ,mrs4 ,ward is peculiarly at home1 and in which she has no superior4 ,marcella1 who in her final development became one of the most beautiful women of all ,mrs4 ,ward's characters1 was suggested by the personality of an intimate friend1 whose name need not be mentioned4 ,mellor ,park1 the home of ,marcella1 is drawn from ,hampden ,house in ,buckinghamshire4 ,it is a famous old house1 some centuries old1 now the country-seat of the ,earl of ,buckinghamshire1 and1 with its well-kept gardens and spacious park1 is unusually attractive4 ,twenty years ago1 however1 it was in a state of neglect4 ,the road leading to it was full of underbrush1 the garden was wholly uncared-for1 and the house itself much in need of repair4 ,this is the state in which ,mrs4 ,ward describes it--and she knew it well1 for she had leased it for a season and made it her summer home4 ,the murder of the gamekeeper1 described as taking place near ,mellor ,park1 really happened at ,stocks1 ,mrs4 ,ward's present home near ,tring4 ,the village of ,ferth1 where ,sir ,george ,tressady had his home and owned the collieries1 is a mining village ten miles from ,crewe1 known as ,talk o' the ,hill4 ,the ugly black house to which ,tressady brought home his young wife was described from an actual house which the author visited4 ,helbeck of ,bannisdale was written while the author was living at ,levens ,hall1 the handsome country home of ,captain ,bagot1 ,m4,p41 which ,mrs4 ,ward leased for a summer4 ,it is a few miles south of ,kendal1 in ,westmoreland1 and just on the border of the ,peat ,moss country4 ,the old hall dates back to #aagj1 the original deed now in possession of ,captain ,bagot bearing that date4 ,the dining-room has an inlaid design over the mantel with the date #aehf4 ,the entrance-hall1 dining-room1 and drawing-room contain many antique relics4 ,but the most remarkable feature of ,levens is the garden1 containing about two hundred yews trained and trimmed into every conceivable shape4 ,there is an umbrella which has required two hundred years of constant care to reach its present size and shape2 a ,british lion1 with perfect coronet2 a peacock with correctly formed neck and tail feathers2 a barrister's wig1 a kaffir's hut1 and so on through a long list of curious shapes4 ,in front of the house the river ,kent1 with a bridge of two arches1 makes a picturesque scene4 ,this is the bridge over the ,bannisdale ,river which marked the end of ,laura's drive with ,mason1 where at sight of ,helbeck the young man made his sudden and unceremonious departure4 ,a spacious park skirts the river1 through which runs a grassy road bounded by splendid oaks intertwining their branches high above4 ,following this path we reached a foot-bridge barely wide enough for one person to cross1 on the park end of which is a rough platform apparently built for fishermen4 ,here ,laura kept her clandestine appointment with ,mason1 and on her way home was mistaken for the ghost of the ,bannisdale ,lady1 much to the terror of a poor old man who chanced to be passing1 and not a little to her own subsequent embarrassment4 ,a little beyond is the deep pool where ,laura was drowned4 ,the exterior of ,bannisdale ,hall is not ,levens1 but ,sizergh ,castle1 some two or three miles nearer ,kendal4 ,at the time of the story a ,catholic family of ,stricklands owned the place1 but1 like ,helbeck1 were gradually selling parts of their property1 and dealers from ,london and elsewhere were constantly coming to carry off furniture or paintings4 ,the family finally lost the property1 and it was acquired by a distant relative1 ,sir ,gerald ,strickland1 who was recently appointed ,governor of ,new ,south ,wales1 and who now owns but does not occupy it4 ,the little chapel1 high up on a hill1 where ,laura was buried1 is at ,cartmel ,fell1 in ,northern ,lancashire4 ,a quaint little chapel five or six hundred years old1 it is well worth a visit4 ,the scenes of ,eleanor are in ,italy1 and here ,mrs4 ,ward fairly revels in descriptions of ,italy1 the beloved and beautiful4 ,the opening chapters have their setting in the ,villa ,barberini1 on the ridge of the ,alban ,hills1 south of ,rome1 from the balcony of which the dome of ,st4 ,peter's can be seen in the distance1 dominating the landscape by day and seeming at night to be the one thing which has definite form and identity4 ,there is a visit to ,nemi and ,egeria's ,spring1 after which the scene changes to the valley of the ,paglia1 beyond the hill town of ,orvieto1 a valley with wooded hills on either side1 of a bluish-green color1 checkered with hill towns and slim campaniles and winding roads2 and1 binding it all in one1 the loops and reaches of a full brown river4 ,torre ,amiata--the real name of which is ,torre ,alfina--is a magnificent castle1 a place of remote and enchanting beauty4 ,through some ,italian friends1 ,mrs4 ,ward met the agent of this great estate1 who put his house at her disposal for a season4 ,this happy opportunity gave her the intimate acquaintance with the surrounding country which she used with such excellent skill in ,eleanor1 and enabled her1 among other things1 to discover the ruined convent and chapel which formed the dismal retreat of ,lucy and ,eleanor in their strange flight from ,mr4 ,manisty4 ,lady ,rose's ,daughter1 which followed ,eleanor1 likewise reflects the author's love of ,italy4 ,it was written1 in part at least1 in the beautiful villa at ,cadenabbia1 on ,lake ,como1 from which a view of surpassing loveliness meets the eye in every direction4 ,mrs4 ,ward never tires of it1 and in her leisure moments while there found great delight in reproducing in her sketch-book the charming colors of a landscape which can scarcely be equaled in any other part of the world4 ,the setting of the novel in its earlier chapters is ,london4 ,but when ,julie ,le ,breton1 worn out by mental anguish1 the result of experiences which had nearly ruined her life1 could be rescued and brought back to life only by a quiet rest amid pleasant surroundings1 ,lake ,como was the place selected by her kind-hearted little friend the duchess4 ,as her strength gradually returned she daily walked over the hill to the path that led to the woods overhanging the ,villa ,carlotta4 ,such a path6 ,to the left hand1 and1 as it seemed1 steeply beneath her feet1 all earth and heaven--the wide lake1 the purple mountains1 the glories of a flaming sky4 ,on the calm spaces of water lay a shimmer of crimson and gold1 repeating the noble splendor of the clouds4444 ,to her right a green hillside--each blade of grass1 each flower1 each tuft of heath1 enskied1 transfigured by the broad light that poured across it from the hidden west4 ,and on the very hilltop a few scattered olives1 peaches1 and wild cherries scrawled upon the blue1 their bare1 leaning stems1 their pearly whites1 their golden pinks and feathery gray1 all in a glory of sunset that made of them things enchanted1 aerial1 fantastical1 like a dance of ,botticelli angels on the height4 ,illustration3 ,,lake ,,como ,the story opens with a graphic description of ,lady ,henry's salon--frequented by the most prominent people in ,london--where the chief attraction was not the great lady herself1 but her maid companion1 ,julie ,le ,breton4 ,everywhere ,julie was met with smiles and evidence of eager interest4 ,she knew every one1 and her rule appeared to be at once absolute and welcome4 ,but one evening ,lady ,henry was ill and gave orders that the guests be turned away with her apologies4 ,as the carriages drove up1 one by one1 the footman rehearsed ,lady ,henry's excuses4 ,but a group of men soon assembled in the inner vestibule1 and ,julie felt impelled to invite them into the library1 where they were implored not to make any noise4 ,the distinguished frequenters of ,lady ,henry's salon were all there4 ,coffee was served1 and1 stimulated by the blazing fire and a sense of excitement due to the novelty of the situation1 an animated conversation sprang up1 which continued till midnight and was at last suddenly interrupted by the unexpected appearance of ,lady ,henry herself4 ,lady ,henry's awakening led to ,julie's dismissal4 ,but her friends did not desert her4 ,a little cottage was found1 where ,julie was soon comfortably installed4 ,this much of the story--and little if any more--was suggested by the life of ,julie de ,lespinasse1 a ,frenchwoman who figured brilliantly in the ,paris society of the middle of the eighteenth century4 ,in #aged the ,marquise du ,deffand was one of the famous women of ,paris4 ,her quick intelligence and a great reputation for wit had brought to her drawing-room the famous authors1 philosophers1 and learned men of the day4 ,but the great lady1 now nearly sixty1 was entirely blind and subject to a chronic weariness that devoured her4 ,she sought a remedy in the society of an extraordinarily attractive young woman1 of somewhat doubtful parentage1 named ,julie de ,lespinasse1 whom she took into her home as a companion4 ,julie became a great social success4 ,for ten years she remained with ,madame du ,deffand1 when a bitter quarrel separated them4 ,julie's friends combined to assure her an income and a home1 and she was soon established almost opposite the house of her former patron4 ,the ,marechale de ,luxembourg presented her with a complete suite of furniture4 ,turgot1 the famous ,minister of ,louis ,,xvi1 and ,president ,henault were among those who provided funds4 ,d',alembert1 distinguished as a philosopher1 author1 and geometrician1 who was the cause of the quarrel with the marquise1 became ,julie's most intimate friend4 ,when she founded her own salon1 his official patronage and constant presence assured its success4 ,her success was1 in fact1 astonishingly rapid4 ,in the space of a few months1 says her biographer1 the ,marquis de ,segur1 the modest room with the crimson blinds was nightly filled1 between the hours of six and ten1 by a crowd of chosen visitors1 courtiers and men of letters1 soldiers and churchmen1 ambassadors and great ladies1 444 each and all gayly jostling elbows as they struggled up the narrow wooden stairs1 unregretting1 and forgetting in the ardor of their talk1 the richest houses in ,paris1 their suppers and balls1 the opera1 and the futile lures of the grand world4 ,the remarkable career and unique personality of this famous woman furnished the suggestion for ,julie ,le ,breton4 ,but beyond this the resemblance is slight4 ,the subsequent history of the ,frenchwoman has no relation to the story of ,lady ,rose's ,daughter1 and the personality of the two women differs in many respects4 ,the ,marriage of ,william ,ashe is like ,lady ,rose's ,daughter in two important respects3 it is a story in which the author reveals an extraordinary knowledge of ,english politics and familiarity with the social life of the upper classes1 and it is one in which a story of real life plays an important part4 ,indeed1 there is far more of real life in this novel than in any other the author has written4 ,william ,ashe and his frivolous and erratic wife ,kitty are portraits1 considerably modified1 it is true1 but nevertheless real1 of ,william and ,caroline ,lamb4 ,william ,lamb--known to posterity as ,lord ,melbourne--did not become a distinguished statesman until after he had entered the ,house of ,lords4 ,for twenty-five years he had been a member of the ,house of ,commons1 of little influence and almost unknown to the country at large4 ,but soon after the death of ,george ,,iv he entered the cabinet of ,earl ,grey as ,home ,secretary4 ,this was in #ahcj4 ,less than four years later he rose suddenly to the highest position in the state4 ,as ,premier it was his unique privilege to instruct the young ,queen1 ,victoria1 in the duties of her high office--a task which he executed with commendable tact and skill4 ,it is the inconsequential ,william ,lamb of the ,house of ,commons1 and not the exalted ,lord ,melbourne1 whom ,mrs4 ,ward had in mind in portraying ,william ,ashe2 and it was more particularly his young wife1 ,caroline ,lamb1 who furnished the real motive of the novel4 ,lady ,caroline1 we are told by ,lord ,melbourne's biographer1 ,dr4 ,dunckley1 became the mistress of many accomplishments4 ,she acquired ,french and ,latin1 and had the further courage1 ,mr4 ,torrens tells us1 to undertake the recital of an ode of ,sappho4 ,she could draw and paint1 and had the instinct of caricature4 ,her mind was brimming with romance1 and1 regardless of conventionality1 she followed her own tastes in everything4 ,in conversation she was both vivacious and witty4 ,such was ,lady ,caroline ,ponsonby when she married ,william ,lamb4 ,the marriage proved an extremely unhappy one4 ,lady ,caroline's whole life was a series of flirtations--deliberately planned1 as a matter of fact1 and yet entered upon with such mad rushes of passion as to seem merely the result of some irresistible impulse4 ,a son was born to the couple1 but he brought no joy1 for as he grew up he developed an infirmity of intellect amounting almost to imbecility4 ,the life of the young people was an incessant round of frivolous dissipation4 ,the after-supper revels often lasted till daybreak4 ,but this brought no happiness1 and both husband and wife came to realize that marriage had been1 for them1 a troublesome affair4 ,about this time ,lord ,byron appeared on the scene4 ,childe ,harold had brought him sudden fame4 ,he had traveled in the ,east1 was the hero of many escapades1 had been sufficiently wicked to win the admiration of certain ladies of romantic tendencies1 and altogether created quite a furor through the peculiar charms of his handsome face and dashing ways4 ,he sought and obtained an introduction to ,lady ,caroline4 ,he came to call the next day when she was alone1 and for the next nine months almost lived at ,melbourne ,house4 ,they called each other by endearing names1 and exchanged passionate verses4 ,they were constantly together1 and the intimacy caused much scandalous comment4 ,it lasted until ,byron became tired of it all1 and announced his intention of marrying4 ,the marriage to a cousin of ,lady ,caroline aroused the fierce jealousy of the latter1 who proceeded to perform a little melodrama of her own1 first trying to jump out of a window and then stabbing herself--not so deep that it would hurt--with a knife4 ,such escapades could have but one result4 ,there came a separation1 of course2 but some traces of the early love remained in both1 and when ,lady ,caroline was dying1 ,william ,lamb was summoned from ,ireland4 ,the final parting was not without tender affection on both sides1 and ,william felt his loss deeply4 ,in this brief sketch the reader of ,mrs4 ,ward's novel will recognize ,kitty ,ashe in every line4 ,the portraiture is very close4 ,cliffe takes the place of ,lord ,byron without being made to resemble him4 ,but he serves to reveal the weakness of ,kitty's character4 ,even ,kitty's mischievous work in writing a book1 which came near ruining her husband's career1 was an episode in the life of ,caroline ,lamb4 ,she wrote a novel in which ,byron and herself were the principal characters1 and their escapades were paraded before the world in a thin disguise which deceived nobody4 ,illustration3 ,,stocks ,of ,mrs4 ,ward's later books there is little to say1 so far as scenes and originals are concerned4 ,in ,fenwick's ,career the little cottage where the artist and his wife lived was in reality the summer home of ,mrs4 ,ward's daughter ,dorothy4 ,it stands on the slope of a hill near the ,langdale ,pikes in ,westmoreland1 commanding a view of surpassing loveliness4 ,in the ,testing of ,diana ,mallory the scenery is all taken from the country near ,stocks1 the summer home of the novelist4 ,in ,daphne1 or ,marriage a la ,mode1 ,mount ,vernon1 ,washington1 ,niagara ,falls1 and an imaginary ,english estate supply the necessary scenery1 and these are not described with real interest1 for the author1 contrary to her usual custom1 is here writing with a fixed didactic purpose4 ,but a chapter incidentally thrown in reflects the novelist's impressions of a visit to the ,white ,house as the guest of ,president ,roosevelt--an experience which interested her greatly4 ,in the tall1 black-haired man with the meditative eye1 the equal1 social or intellectual1 of any ,foreign ,minister that ,europe might pit against him1 or any diplomat that might be sent to handle him1 it is easy to recognize ,mr4 ,root4 ,secretary ,garfield is this younger man1 sparely built1 with the sane handsome face--son of a famous father1 modest1 amiable1 efficient4 ,secretary ,taft1 with whom1 apparently1 the distinguished author did not really become acquainted1 is lightly referred to as this other of huge bulk and height1 the hope of a party1 smiling already a ,presidential smile as he passed4 ,it has been said of this book that it does an injustice to ,america4 ,but such was assuredly far from the author's intent4 ,mrs4 ,ward1 who is one of the keenest observers of ,english and ,european public men1 pays a high compliment in the remark that ,america need make no excuses whatever for her best men4444 ,she has evolved the leaders she wants1 and ,europe has nothing to teach them4 ,she is attacking the laxity of the divorce laws in certain ,american ,states1 and in doing so is actuated by motives which every high-minded ,american must applaud4 ,the ,english general who berates ,american institutions is held up to ridicule1 and the most agreeable woman in the book--perhaps the only agreeable one--is an ,american4 ,daphne1 through whom the author condemns the evil1 is not a typical ,american girl1 but1 with evident intent to avoid offense1 is made the daughter of a foreigner4 ,as a matter of fact1 ,mrs4 ,ward's feelings toward ,america are of the kindliest nature1 and1 whatever may be said of the merits of ,marriage a la ,mode as a work of fiction1 in condemning an abuse which nobody can defend she has performed a real service4 ,,footnote3 #e #aijh4 ,,vi ,a ,,tour ,,of ,,the ,,italian ,,lakes ,,vi ,a ,,tour ,,of ,,the ,,italian ,,lakes ,we caught our first glimpse of ,maggiore from a window in ,stresa1 late in the afternoon of a charming day in early spring4 ,in spite of the lateness of the hour1 with all the enthusiasm of amateurs1 we proceeded to make a photograph of the charming scene4 ,ruskin was right when he declared ,maggiore to be the most beautiful of all the ,italian lakes2--at least1 we felt willing to admit this1 even though we had not yet seen the others4 ,in the foreground were the green lawns and white paths of a well-kept park1 skirting the lake2 then a wide stretch of water1 roughened by the wind so that its surface1 usually smooth1 was now dotted with whitecaps1 dancing and sparkling in the afternoon sun2 across the water to the left1 the village of ,pallanza1 pushing itself far out into the lake1 and thrown into strong relief by the high mountains at its back2 far away in the distance1 the white-capped summit of some ,alpine range2 and above it all1 the most beautiful of blue ,italian skies4 ,we gazed long upon the scene1 until the twilight began to deepen4 ,soon two figures appeared at the entrance to the park1 one a woman in a green velvet gown1 the other a man in a long flowing mantle of the style peculiar to ,italy4 ,they seemed in earnest conversation1 now approaching each other with vigorous but graceful gestures1 now falling back a step or two and again advancing4 ,the man would throw his cloak over his left shoulder2 then1 when his earnestness caused it to slip away1 he would throw it back again1 repeating the movement over and over4 ,we could almost fancy overhearing ,lorenzo say3-- ,in such a night ,did ,jessica steal from the wealthy ,jew1 ,and with an unthrift love did run from ,venice ,as far as ,belmont2 and hearing ,jessica reply3-- ,and in such a night ,did young ,lorenzo swear he loved her well1 ,stealing her soul with many vows of faith1 ,and ne'er a true one4 ,the little pantomime seemed all that was needed to complete the romance of the scene1 while the gathering twilight lent its aid4 ,illustration3 ,,lake ,,maggiore1 ,,italy ,the ,lago di ,maggiore1 known to the ,romans as ,lacus ,verbanus1 is the westernmost as well as the largest of three lovely lakes which lie on the southern slope of the ,alps1 in an area not greater than that of the ,state of ,rhode ,island4 ,the ,lago di ,como1 or ,lacus ,larius1 is the easternmost of the group1 while the ,lago di ,lugano1 smaller1 but not less beautiful1 lies between the other two4 ,there is a peculiar delicacy of beauty about these lakes like an exquisitely tinted rosebud or the perfume of apple blossoms4 ,the ruggedness of aspect common to most mountain lakes is here lost in the soft luxuriance of the green shores1 the sparkling waters1 and the rich blue sky4 ,the hills are lined with terraces of green vineyards1 interspersed with the pink of peach and almond blossoms4 ,camellias and azaleas brighten the gardens4 ,mulberry trees1 olives1 and cypresses1 mingling with their sturdy ,northern companions1 the spruces and pines1 cast their varied foliage against the brown of the near-by mountains4 ,in the distance the snow-clad peaks of the ,alps interpose their white mantles between the blue of the sky and the warmer tones of the hillsides1 while here and there picturesque villages stand out on projecting promontories to lend an additional gleam of whiteness to the landscape4 ,mingling with the charm of all this natural beauty and intensifying it are the atmosphere of poetry and romance which one instinctively feels1 and the more tangible associations with history1 literature1 science1 art1 and architecture which are constantly suggested as one makes the tour of the lakes4 ,in the morning we found our places on the upper deck of the little steamer that makes a zigzag journey through ,maggiore4 ,no sooner had the boat started than we heard sweet strains of music and a chorus of well-modulated male voices4 ,the night before we had had a miniature play for our special benefit4 ,can it be possible that now we are to have ,italian opera8 ,they were only a party of native excursionists1 but we were genuinely sorry when they disembarked at the next landing4 ,leaving ,stresa1 famous as the home of ,cavour1 when that great statesman was planning the creation of a united ,italy1 we soon came in sight of ,isola ,bella4 ,as it lay there in the bright sunlight1 its green terraces and tropical foliage1 its white towers and arcaded walls reflected in the blue waters of the lake1 the snowy mountains forming a distant background and a cloudless blue sky surmounting the whole1 we thought it beautiful4 ,but in this1 it seems1 our taste was at fault1 and while admiring we ought to have been criticizing4 ,it was like spending an evening with genuine enjoyment at the theater1 only to find out the next morning from the critic of the daily newspaper that the play was poor1 the acting only ordinary1 and the applause merely an act of generosity4 ,southey wrote of it1 ,isola ,bella is at once the most costly and the most absurd effort of bad taste that has ever been produced by wealth and extravagance4 ,a more recent ,english writer condemns its monstrous artificialities4 ,he declares that the gardens are a triumph of bad taste1 and that artificial grottoes1 bristling with shells1 terrible pieces of hewn stone1 which it would be an offense to sculpture to term statuary1 offend the eye at every turn4 ,another says that it is like a ,perigord pie1 stuck all over with the heads of woodcocks and partridges1 while some one else thinks it worthy the taste of a confectioner4 ,on the other hand1 our own distinguished novelist1 ,mrs4 ,edith ,wharton1 found much to be admired3-- ,the palace has 444 one feature of peculiar interest to the student of villa architecture1 namely1 the beautiful series of rooms in the south basement1 opening on the gardens1 and decorated with the most exquisite ornamentation of pebble-work and sea-shells1 mingled with delicate-tinted stucco4 ,these low-vaulted rooms1 with marble floors1 grotto-like walls1 and fountains dripping into fluted conches1 are like a poet's notion of some twilight refuge from summer heats1 where the languid green air has the coolness of water3 even the fantastic consoles1 tables1 and benches1 in which cool glimmering mosaics are combined with carved wood and stucco painted in faint greens and rose-tints1 might have been made of mother-of-pearl1 coral1 and seaweed for the adornment of some submarine palace4 ,it was the fashion to admire the island before it became the rule to condemn its artificiality4 ,bishop ,burnet visited ,maggiore in #afhe1 fourteen years after the ,count ,vitaliano ,borromeo had transformed the island from a barren slate rock into a costly summer residence4 ,he thought it one of the loveliest spots of ground in the world1 and wrote1 there is nothing in all ,italy that can be compared with it4 ,at a much later time1 ,lord ,lytton allowed himself to rise to the heights of enthusiasm3-- ,o fairy island of a fairy sea1 ,wherein ,calypso might have spelled the ,greek1 ,or ,flora piled her fragrant treasury1 ,culled from each shore her zephyr's wings could seek1-- ,from rocks where aloes blow4 ,tier upon tier1 ,hesperian fruits arise3 ,the hanging bowers of this soft ,babylon2 ,an ,india mellows in the ,lombard skies1 ,and changelings1 stolen from the ,lybian sun1 ,smile to yon ,alps of snow4 ,illustration3 ,,isola ,,bella1 ,,lake ,,maggiore ,the charge of artificiality must be admitted4 ,a bare rock cannot be transformed into a thing of beauty and escape the charge4 ,the ten terraces are a series of walls1 built in the form of a pyramid and covered with earth1 transported from the mainland at great expense4 ,orange and lemon trees1 amid a profusion of tropical foliage1 are thus made to wave their fragrant branches in the face of ,alpine snows4 ,is not this worth while8 ,the truth is that ,lake ,maggiore is so rich in the kind of beauty which the hand of ,nature has provided that the creations of man--the villas1 the gardens1 the vineyards1 the villages nestling close to the water's edge1 and the pilgrimage churches high up on the mountain-sides--seem only to accentuate the charm4 ,the ,isola dei ,pescatori1 or ,island of the ,fishermen1 lying near the ,beautiful ,island1 forms a striking contrast4 ,if distance is needed to lend enchantment and conceal the lavish expenditure of wealth on the ,isola ,bella1 it is needed still more to hide the squalor and avoid the odor of the poor fishermen's island4 ,yet the latter1 seen from the steamer's deck1 is far more picturesque than its more pretentious neighbor4 ,the third of the ,borromean group is known as the ,isola ,madre4 ,it has seven terraces1 surmounted by an unused villa4 ,its gardens are full of roses1 camellias1 and all kinds of beautiful plants1 lemons1 oranges1 myrtle1 magnolia1 and semi-tropical trees in great profusion4 ,less popular than ,isola ,bella1 it is considered by many far more attractive4 ,two villages lying farther south on the western shore of the lake are worthy of at least passing mention3--,belgirate and ,arona4 ,the former was the home1 in the late years of his life1 of the great master of ,italian prose1 ,manzoni1 whose novel1 ,i ,promessi ,sposi1 was thought by ,scott to be the finest ever written4 ,he was a man of the people1 greatly beloved by his countrymen for his benevolence1 tender sympathy1 and warmth of affection4 ,arona was the home of the patron saint of the ,italian lakes1 ,carlo ,borromeo4 ,a colossal statue1 sixty-six feet high on a pedestal of forty feet1 built to his memory in #afig1 is one of the sights of the region4 ,st4 ,charles was born in #aecg4 ,at the age of twenty-three he was made a cardinal by his uncle1 ,pope ,pius ,,iv4 ,inheriting great wealth1 he devoted his revenues to charity1 sometimes living on bread and water and sleeping on straw4 ,traveling as a missionary1 he visited the remotest villages and almost inaccessible shepherds' huts high up on the mountains4 ,he is best remembered for his self-sacrifice and heroic devotion to the people in the great plague at ,milan in #aege4 ,but the great saint was a hater of heretics and caused many of them to be put to death4 ,nor was he without enemies among those of his own faith4 ,a ,franciscan monk once fired upon him1 but he escaped as if by miracle1 the bullet glancing from the heavy gold embroidery of his cope--a demonstration that gold lace is not always a wholly superfluous decoration4 ,our little steamer zigzagged back and forth1 stopping at many villages1 until finally ,luino was reached4 ,this busy little town was the birthplace of ,bernardino ,luini1 the illustrious disciple of ,leonardo da ,vinci1 whose frescoes adorn many of the ,italian churches4 ,it was also the scene of one of ,garibaldi's brave exploits1 though an unsuccessful one4 ,here we left the steamer for a short ride by tramway to ,ponte ,tresa1 on ,lake ,lugano1 where another little boat was waiting4 ,although usually regarded as one of the ,italian lakes1 the greater portion of ,lugano is in ,swiss territory4 ,most tourists make it the gateway from the north into ,italy1 passing through its most populous town1 ,lugano1 which1 with its neighbor1 ,paradiso1 lines the shores of a beautiful blue bay1 guarded on either side by high mountains1 clothed with groves of oak and chestnut set off by vineyards and gardens on the lower slopes4 ,to the front ,monte ,caprino rises straight up from the water like one huge1 solitary rock1 keeping stern watch over the soft luxuriance of the towns4 ,san ,salvatore is the sentinel on the right1 while ,monte ,bri and ,monte ,boglia are on duty at the left4 ,lugano was the home of the ,italian patriot1 ,mazzini1 who has been called the prophet of ,italian unity1 as ,garibaldi was its knight-errant and ,cavour its statesman4 ,on the eastern side of the lake and farther to the south is ,monte ,generoso4 ,we saw it only from the steamer1 but it ought to be seen at close range1 for it is covered with woods and pastures and commands a view of the chain of lakes that is said to be unsurpassed in all ,italy4 ,we maintained our zigzag journey1 however1 until ,porlezza was reached1 where another little train stood ready to carry us over to ,lake ,como4 ,for kaleidoscopic revelations of ,nature's choicest scenes and rarest beauties1 the descent from the highlands to the town of ,menaggio could scarcely be equaled4 ,the train moved slowly through the vineyards and gardens1 gradually descending1 until with a sudden turn the whole northern end of ,como burst gloriously into view4 ,never was sky a lovelier blue and never did water more splendidly reflect its azure hue4 ,far away the snowy ,alps gave a touch of the sublime to a view of surpassing grandeur4 ,in a moment the scene changed1 and ,bellagio with its white villas stood before us1 separating the two arms of the lake4 ,then ,varenna with its solitary tower1 and finally1 at the edge of the water1 the village of ,menaggio itself4 ,how blest1 delicious scene6 the eye that greets ,thy open beauties or thy lone retreats1-- ,beholds the unwearied sweep of wood that scales ,thy cliffs3 the endless waters of thy vales3 ,thy lowly cots that sprinkle all the shore1 ,each with its household boat beside the door4 ,so sang ,wordsworth in the days of his youth4 ,slowly winding our way down the precipitous slopes1 we reached at last the end of the railway1 and a third steamer closed the experiences of the day by carrying us safely to ,cadenabbia4 ,that was ,italy6 and as lovely as ,italy can be when she tries4 ,so the poet ,longfellow wrote to ,james ,t4 ,fields in #ahfh4 ,and every one who has been there can appreciate the poet's feeling when he wrote3-- ,i ask myself1 ,is this a dream8 ,will it all vanish into air8 ,is there a land of such supreme ,and perfect beauty anywhere8 ,sweet vision6 ,do not fade away2 ,linger until my heart shall take ,into itself the summer day ,and all the beauties of the lake4 ,above ,cadenabbia and reached by a winding path through terraces of vineyards1 there is a bit of woods1 made brilliant at this time of the spring by a wealth of wild cherries1 peaches1 and almonds in full blossom1 and by the tall1 luxuriant growths of rhododendrons1 now covered in thick profusion with huge clusters of splendid pink and purple blossoms4 ,a shady spot near the edge of the woods1 where there was a table and some chairs1 made a convenient place where we could rest after our climb1 and view ,longfellow's vision of supreme and perfect beauty4 ,the grand and majestic beauty of ,maggiore and the more modest but sweeter loveliness of ,lugano were but the preparation for the glorious1 satisfying perfection of ,como1 the most beautiful of all the lakes1 a serene accord of forms and colors4 ,lake ,como is famous1 not alone for its beauty1 but for the many associations of history1 science1 art1 and literature4 ,for centuries its shores have been thickly set with costly villas--the homes of wealth and luxury1 and not infrequently of learning and culture4 ,the elder ,pliny1 whose habits of industry were so great that he worked on his prodigious ,natural ,history even while traveling at night in his carriage1 was born at the city of ,como1 as was also his gifted nephew4 ,volta1 the great physicist and pioneer in electrical science1 ,pope ,innocent ,,iii1 and ,pope ,clement ,,xiii were all natives of the same place4 ,the ,cathedral of ,como is one of the most splendid in northern ,italy4 ,the churches scattered all along the shores of the lake1 as well as the villas1 are a delight to students of art and architecture4 ,they are filled with paintings of great interest and valuable works of sculpture4 ,historically1 although not conspicuous in the great events of the world's progress1 the lake has been the theater of many stirring scenes1 particularly in mediaeval times4 ,halfway between ,menaggio and the northern end of the lake lies a rocky promontory known as ,musso1 the site in the sixteenth century of a great and almost impregnable castle4 ,it was the center of the activities of one of the ablest1 wickedest1 and most picturesque figures in the history of ,italy4 ,his name was ,gian ,giacomo de ,medici1 although he was not related to the famous ,florentine family4 ,he is best known by the name of ,il ,medeghino4 ,he is described as a man of medium stature1 broad-chested1 and of pallid but good-humoured countenance1 and possessed of a keen and searching glance4 ,he was kind to his family and possessed the affection of his soldiers2 he was temperate and not given to the indulgence of the senses2 and he gave liberally to charity and to the encouragement of art4 ,but he was a murderer1 traitor1 liar1 and all-round villain of the first magnitude4 ,if ,san ,carlo ,borromeo was the patron saint of the ,italian lakes1 his uncle1 ,il ,medeghino1 was their presiding demon4 ,he began his career at the age of sixteen by killing another youth--an act for which he was banished from ,milan1 but which became the stepping-stone to a successful campaign of ambition1 based upon crime and bloodshed4 ,in those days of violence the capacity to do murder was a recommendation1 and ,il ,medeghino soon rose to a position of power4 ,he helped ,francesco ,sforza1 the last of that famous house1 to regain the ,duchy of ,milan by taking the life of a ,french courier and stealing his documents1 for which services he demanded the ,castle of ,musso4 ,the price asked by the duke was another murder1 and the victim this time was a personal friend and fellow soldier4 ,il ,medeghino did not hesitate1 but brutally assassinated his friend4 ,the duke1 no longer able to refuse1 sent him to the castle with a letter to the governor1 ordering the latter to turn the fortress over to the young adventurer1 but also with a sealed letter requesting the governor to cut his throat4 ,il ,medeghino took no chances on the secret letter4 ,he broke the seal and destroyed this message1 presenting the open letter and obtaining possession of the stronghold4 ,immediately he made his power felt4 ,he strengthened the walls of the fort and made the cliffs inaccessible4 ,he made himself feared and his authority respected4 ,he began a career of piracy and plunder1 continuing until he became the master1 not only of ,lake ,como1 but of ,lugano and much of the adjacent territory4 ,his fleet of seven large ships and many smaller ones swept the lake from end to end4 ,although but thirty years of age1 he was now a power to be reckoned with4 ,the ,spaniards1 finding him dangerous and not to be conquered by force1 finally succeeded in winning him by concessions4 ,charles ,v created him ,marquis of ,musso and ,count of ,lecco1 and induced him to begin a vigorous warfare against his former master1 the ,duke of ,milan4 ,but the end was near4 ,a great force of ,swiss attacked from the north and the ,duke of ,milan sent a large fleet and great army to subdue the rebel4 ,a battle off ,menaggio was lost by the pirate4 ,he made a desperate fight1 but was compelled to yield to superior forces4 ,but he nevertheless retired with honors4 ,he was given an enormous sum of money and the title of ,marquis of ,marignano1 together with free pardon for himself and all his followers4 ,the rest of his days were spent in the service of ,spain4 ,when he died1 in his sixtieth year1 his brother1 ,pope ,pius ,,iv1 erected a magnificent tomb to his memory in the ,cathedral of ,milan1 where all who feel so disposed may pause to honor this prince of pirates and most unscrupulous of plunderers1 conspicuous for his wickedness1 even in an age ruled by violence4 ,it is a relief to turn from the history of one of the wickedest of men to that of one of the noblest of women1 by merely crossing the lake to the village of ,varenna--a town known to tourists for its milk-white cascade1 the ,fiume ,latte1 a waterfall which leaps in spring-time from a height of a thousand feet4 ,here the remnant of the castle of the good ,queen ,theodelinda may still be seen4 ,in the sixth century ,a4,d41 the ,langobards1 or ,long-,beards1 taking advantage of the weakness and desolation following the long wars against the ,goths1 descended into ,italy to take possession of the land4 ,a powerful race of ,teutons1 renowned for daring and love of war1 they met with little resistance4 ,their king1 soon after1 met a tragic death at the hands of his wife1 and his successor reigned only two years4 ,after ten years of experiments with a national confederacy1 composed of some thirty-five dukes1 constantly at war with each other1 and resulting in a condition of anarchy1 the first real king of the ,lombards was chosen1 ,authari the ,long-haired1 known also by his ,roman name of ,flavius4 ,the chief event in the life of this monarch was his courtship and marriage4 ,having decided1 probably for reasons of state1 upon the daughter of ,garibald1 ,duke of ,bavaria1 as his future wife1 he sent ambassadors to arrange the union4 ,but becoming possessed of a strange and unaccountable desire to catch a glimpse of the lady before taking the final step1 he is said to have accompanied his messengers in disguise4 ,fortunately for the romance of the incident1 he was charmed with her beauty while the princess promptly fell in love with him4 ,the ,christian ,theodelinda became the honored queen of the ,lombards and so won the confidence of their leaders that after the death of ,authari1 shortly after their marriage1 she was invited to choose her own husband1 who would thereupon become the king4 ,she chose ,agilulf1 ,duke of ,turin4 ,through the influence of ,theodelinda1 the ,lombards were brought into the ,catholic ,church1 and the queen herself built at ,monza the first ,lombard cathedral4 ,pope ,gregory the ,great is said to have recognized her services by sending her a precious relic1 one of the nails of the ,cross1 wrought into a narrow band or fillet of iron4 ,sometime later1 probably in the twelfth century1 this ancient relic1 combined with a broad band of gold set with many jewels1 was converted into the celebrated ,iron ,crown of ,lombardy1 with which the ,german ,emperors in mediaeval times were crowned ,kings of ,italy4 ,it was used at the coronation of ,napoleon at ,milan in #ahje1 and by the present ,king of ,italy upon his accession4 ,theodelinda's name was held in reverence by her people1 not only for her great public and private charities1 but for her kindliness of heart4 ,the castle at ,varenna is said to have been her home during the last years of her life4 ,if this story of the ,larian ,lake1 to use its ,roman name1 is being told backwards1 it is because we first saw it at the northern end1 where the interest centers in the events of the ,middle ,ages4 ,but having jumped from the sixteenth back to the sixth century1 it requires no greater agility to skip a few more hundreds of years until we get back to the time of ,julius ,caesar1 who as governor of ,cisalpine ,gaul sent five thousand colonists to the shores of the lake to protect the region against the depredations of the ,gauls4 ,five hundred of them settled at the ancient town of ,comum4 ,the city never played an important part in the history of ,rome1 but remained a comparatively quiet yet prosperous municipality4 ,in the ,golden ,age of ,rome1 the shores of the ,lacus ,larius became lined with costly villas1 where wealthy men sought a retreat from the too strenuous life of the ,imperial ,city4 ,the need of such a refuge must be apparent to any one having even the most superficial knowledge of ,roman municipal life in the first century of the ,christian era4 ,to escape the corruption of official life1 the endless feasts of extravagance and immorality1 and even the public amusements1 where1 as in the ,flavian amphitheater1 #hg1jjj people were wont to gather to witness vast spectacles of cruelty1 obscenity1 and bloodshed1 there was need enough1 and the moral1 self-respecting1 and refined people of ,rome fully realized it4 ,for there were such people1 though the fact has been obscured by history1 which has to deal chiefly with the excesses of the ruling classes4 ,the two ,plinys and their friends were brilliant examples of the ,romans of the better sort4 ,though an aristocrat1 ,pliny the younger was a charitable1 good-natured man1 who loved the quiet of a home where he could combine study with fishing1 hunting1 and the companionship of congenial friends4 ,he possessed several villas on the shores of ,como1 but two particularly interested him1 one of which1 in a somewhat whimsical letter1 he called ,tragedy and the other ,comedy2 the high boot worn by tragedians suggesting the name of the one on a high rock over the lake1 while the sock or slipper of the comedian applied to the villa down by the water's edge4 ,the latter had the great advantage that one might fish from his bedroom1 throwing the line out of the window while he lay in bed4 ,pliny does not tell how many fish he caught under these conditions4 ,the ,villa ,pliniana1 just above ,torno1 on the eastern side of the lake1 was built in #aegj by ,count ,giovanni ,anguisola1 whose claim to distinction lies in his participation in the murder of ,pierluigi ,farnese4 ,the villa was erected as a safe retreat1 where he might escape vengeance4 ,its feature of greatest interest is a curious stream which flows through the central apartment of the house4 ,fifteen centuries before the villa was constructed1 ,pliny described this stream in one of his most interesting letters4 ,a certain spring1 he writes1 rises in a mountain and runs down through the rocks till it is inclosed in a small dining-parlor made by hand2 after being slightly retarded there1 it empties itself into the ,larian lake4 ,its nature is very remarkable4 ,three times a day it is increased or diminished in volume by a regular rise and fall4 ,this can be plainly seen1 and when perceived is a source of great enjoyment4 ,you recline close to it and take your food and even drink from the spring itself 7for it is remarkably cold73 meanwhile with a regular and measured movement1 it either subsides or rises4 ,if you place a ring or any other object on the dry ground it is gradually moistened and finally covered over3 then again it comes to view and is by degrees deserted by the water4 ,if you watch long enough you will see both of these performances repeated a second and even a third time4 ,another famous villa at the southern end of the lake1 near the city of ,como1 was erected by ,cardinal ,gallio1 the son of a fisherman1 who achieved high honors in his ,church and amassed great wealth4 ,this villa was later the home of the discarded ,queen ,caroline1 wife of ,george ,,iv1 who gave it the name of ,villa d',este and made great additions to its elegance4 ,it is now a fashionable hotel4 ,cardinal ,gallio seems to have had a passion for extensive villas4 ,his palace at ,gravedona1 at the head of the lake1 was one of the most splendid in ,europe4 ,it is said that he could make the journey to ,rome1 requiring six days1 and stop at one of his own palaces every night4 ,the ,villa ,carlotta now the property of the ,duke of ,saxe-,meiningen1 is at ,tremezzo1 a village adjoining ,cadenabbia on the south4 ,its chief beauty lies in the garden1 filled with a profusion of plants of every variety--roses1 camellias1 azaleas1 magnolias1 oranges1 lilies--all arranged in charming walks1 with here and there a vista of the lake and ,bellagio in the distance1 reflecting the bright sunlight from its white walls4 ,above are the woods and the little round table overlooking the water1 where we began our survey of the ,larian shores4 ,the interior contains a large collection of sculptures1 but most visitors remember only two pieces1--,thorwaldsen's ,triumphant ,entry into ,babylon of ,alexander the ,great1 and ,canova's lovely ,cupid and ,psyche4 ,after seeing some of these palaces merely as tourists1 and learning the history of others of an earlier day1 particularly the homes described by ,pliny1 we could not help wishing to see an ,italian palace which is not a show place but a home1 and typical of modern life on the shores of this wonderful lake1 for so many centuries sought by men of wealth as the place where they could realize their dreams of comfort and delight4 ,the opportunity of gratifying this desire came sooner than we expected4 ,we had started one morning to make a call at the summer home of ,mrs4 ,humphry ,ward1 who had leased the ,villa ,bonaventura for a season4 ,mistaking the directions1 we entered the gate of the ,villa ,maria1 a large house in the classical lines of the ,italian ,renaissance1 standing high above the road and reached by winding paths through a garden of surpassing loveliness4 ,our ring was answered by the ,italian butler1 who in response to our inquiries nodded pleasantly1 not understanding a word we said1 and disappeared4 ,in a few moments we were most cordially greeted by an ,american gentleman1 who assured us he was delighted to see us1 and would be happy to show us the villa4 ,in another moment1 and before we could make explanations1 another ring of the doorbell announced two other callers1 who1 as it happened1 were really expected at the hour of our arrival1 by invitation to see the villa4 ,we had made a mistake1 and in turn had been mistaken for two other people1 but our friendly host insisted that we1 too1 should see his beautiful home4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,atrium ,,of ,,the ,,villa ,,maria ,we were standing in the atrium before a large marble vase--a restoration of the so-called ,gaeta vase1 by ,salpion1 a ,greek sculptor of the time of ,praxiteles4 ,the original was thrown into the ,bay of ,gaeta1 where for centuries it remained partially embedded in the mud4 ,the fishermen of many generations used it as a convenient post for mooring their boats1 and did much damage with their ropes4 ,it was finally rescued and taken to a church for use as a baptismal font1 and later transferred to the ,naples ,museum4 ,the theme of the vase is the presentation of the infant ,bacchus1 by ,mercury1 to one of the ,nymphs--a favorite subject with ancient sculptors4 ,mr4 ,haines1 our courteous host1 was justly proud of this--the first complete restoration of this beautiful work of art4 ,the decoration of the atrium1 including the eight lunettes1 as well as of the entire villa1 are by the hand of ,pogliaghi1 who now stands at the head of the ,lombard decorators4 ,he is the young sculptor who in #ahie was commissioned to design the magnificent bronze doors of the ,cathedral of ,milan1 a work requiring seven years4 ,one striking feature of the villa is its harmony of color4 ,glance out the doorway1 from the atrium across the lake1 or from the dining-room toward ,menaggio1 or through the library windows into the garden1 and everywhere you see the blue ,italian sky1 the brown of the distant mountains1 the green of the freshly budding trees1 the sparkle of the lake1 and the brilliant tints of the camellias1 hyacinths1 and cineraria1 combining to make a scene of splendor rarely equaled in this good old world of ours4 ,then1 glancing back into the rooms of the villa1 you find the same tints and shadings in the walls and ceilings1 the paintings1 tapestries1 and upholstery4 ,perfect harmony with ,nature at her best seems to have been ,pogliaghi's motive4 ,passing to the right of the atrium1 we entered the music saloon1 decorated and furnished in the style of ,louis ,,xiv1 a large and beautiful room1 noteworthy1 not only for its acoustic properties1 but also for extreme richness and harmony of design and color4 ,an arched opening reveals a portion of a fine piece of tapestry by ,giulio ,romano1 dating from the sixteenth century1 which covers the rear wall of the dining-room4 ,this tapestry1 formerly owned by the ,duke of ,modena1 is a representation of the old ,greek legend of the presentation of ,bacchus1 the same theme as that of the ,gaeta vase4 ,indeed1 it was the possession of this tapestry which suggested to ,mr4 ,haines the idea of obtaining a restoration of the famous vase4 ,a striking feature of the dining-room is the frieze of ,poliaghi representing young ,bacchantes in the midst of fruit and flowers1 so cleverly painted that it seems to be done in high relief1 completely deceiving the eye4 ,on the left of the atrium is the library1 with two life-size portraits by ,de ,la ,gandara1 one of ,mr4 ,haines and the other of his wife4 ,mrs4 ,haines was an accomplished musician as well as an enthusiastic collector of works of art4 ,the ,villa ,maria was designed by her as a fitting shrine for her valuable collections as well as with a view to musical entertainments4 ,since her death1 in #ahii1 ,mr4 ,haines1 with equal enthusiasm and taste1 has added to the collections and improved the villa4 ,his study is in the rear of the library4 ,its distinguishing feature is a life-size portrait of the children of ,catherine de ,medici1 by ,federico ,zuccheri4 ,this painting is seven hundred years old1 but the colors are still fresh1 and although life-size it has the exactness of a miniature4 ,it was formerly in the ,borghese collection4 ,ascending the marble stairway we were ushered into the ,porcelain room1 containing the most unique and valuable portion of the art treasures of the villa4 ,there are four cabinets in the style of ,louis ,,xv1 containing what is probably the best collection to be found in ,europe of rare ,ancienne1 ,porcelain de ,saxe1 ,old ,chelsea1 ,nymphenberg1 ,dresden1 ,meissen1 ,ludwigsburg1 and ,sevres pieces in endless variety and bewildering richness of design4 ,there are fans painted by ,nicolas ,poussin1 and others by ,french and ,italian artists of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries4 ,there is a fine portrait of the ,duchess de ,chevreuse by ,la ,guilliere and an original painting of ,louis le ,grand by ,le ,fevre4 ,a rare clock of the period of ,louis ,,xv1 made about #agej1 with miniature allegorical paintings1 surrounded by pearls1 stands upon a ,louis ,,xiv desk1 ornamented with elaborate carved bronzes by ,reisinger4 ,on either side of the clock is a fine old ,bohemian vase1 while near by is a miniature of ,napoleon by ,isabey4 ,the decoration of the room is completed by a fine old piece of ,gobelin tapestry1 bearing the signature of ,boucher and the date #agdg1 originally presented by ,louis ,,xv to one of the queens of ,spain4 ,these are a few of the treasures shown to us in a very brief visit to the ,villa ,maria4 ,the enthusiasm of its owner for art goes hand in hand with a love of nature4 ,if the interior decorations have been done with the eye of a discriminating artist1 no less has the exterior received the same careful attention4 ,the fine fountain1 just within the gates1 the flower-beds with their well-harmonized tints1 the olives and cypresses1 the camellias1 the cherry tree in full blossom1 all add their charm to a view which would be unsurpassed even without their aid4 ,for the villa is situated at one of the loveliest points on beautiful ,como1 commanding on all sides a panorama of distant mountains1 with here and there a snow-capped peak1 of peaceful water glistening in the warm ,april sun1 of little white villages dotting the shores of the lake1 of quaint little chapels in nooks and corners of the mountains1 of peach trees and almonds adding a touch of pink to the landscape1 of blue skies and fleecy clouds surmounting the whole like a brilliant canopy4 ,no wonder that our genial host1 after showing all the beauties of his palace1 stood by the open window and waving his hand exclaimed1 ,i call this my ,j4 ,m4 ,w4 ,turner4 ,but the window framed a lovelier work of art than the hand of man will ever paint4 ,illustration3 ,i ,,call ,,this ,,my ,j4 ,m4 ,w4 ,,turner ,,vii ,,literary ,,landmarks ,,of ,,new ,,england ,,vii ,,literary ,,landmarks ,,of ,,new ,,england ,the quest for literary landmarks is always a fascinating pursuit1 particularly to the amateur photographer who likes to take pictures that mean something4 ,i have always found a certain exhilaration in seeing for myself and reproducing photographically the places made memorable by some favorite author4 ,to look into the ground glass of my camera and see the reflected image of some lovely scene that has been an inspiration to poet or novelist1 is like suddenly coming into possession of a prize that had ever before been thought unattainable4 ,it brings the author of a by-gone generation into one's own time4 ,it deepens the previous enjoyment--makes it more real4 ,when ,i stand before the house in which some great author has lived1 ,i seem to see more than a mere dwelling4 ,the great man himself comes out to meet me1 invites me in1 shows me his study1 presents me to his wife and children1 walks with me in his garden1 tells me how the surroundings of his home have influenced his literary work1 and finally sends me away with a peculiar sense of intimacy4 ,i go home1 reach out my hand for a certain neglected book on my shelves1 and lo6 it opens as with a hidden spring1 a new light glows upon its pages1 and ,i find myself absorbed in conversation with a friend4 ,i ,,concord ,for this kind of hunting ,i know of no better place in ,america than ,new ,england1 and no better town in which to begin than the sleepy old village of ,concord1 twenty miles northwest of ,boston4 ,on the occasion of a recent visit1 we walked out ,monument ,street and made our first stop at a point in the road immediately opposite the ,old ,manse4 ,a party of school-children were just entering4 ,had we been looking at the grove on the hillside1 at the opposite end of the town1 where ,hawthorne used to walk to and fro1 composing the ,tanglewood ,tales1 we might have supposed they had come to catch a few echoes of the famous story-teller's voice1 and ,i should have made a photograph with the children in it4 ,but here they did not seem so appropriate1 and we waited until they had gone4 ,when all was quiet again1 it did not require a very vigorous imagination to look down the vista of black-ash trees seen between the two tall gate-posts of rough-hewn stone1 and fancy a man and woman walking arm in arm down the avenue toward the weather-stained old parsonage1 its dark sides scarcely visible beneath the shadows of the overarching trees4 ,the man is of medium height1 broad-shouldered1 and walks with a vigorous stride1 suggesting the bodily activity of a young athlete4 ,his hair is dark1 framing with wavy curves a forehead both high and broad4 ,heavy eyebrows overhang a pair of dark blue eyes1 that seem to flash with wondrous expressiveness1 as he bends slightly to speak to the little woman at his side4 ,his voice is low and deep1 and she responds to what he is saying with an upward glance of her soft gray eyes and a happy smile that clearly suggest the sunshine which she is destined to throw into his life4 ,thus ,nathaniel ,hawthorne and ,sophia ,peabody1 his bride1 on a day in ,july1 #ahdb1 passed into the gloomy old house where they were to begin their honeymoon4 ,i say begin because it was not like the ordinary honeymoon that ends abruptly on the day the husband first proposes to go alone on a fishing excursion4 ,nor was it like that of a certain colored lady whom ,i once knew4 ,on the day following the wedding she left ,william to attend to his usual duties in the stable and the garden while she started on a two weeks' honeymoon trip to her old ,virginia home1 explaining afterward that she couldn't afford to take dat fool niggah along1 noway4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,old ,,manse ,the ,hawthorne honeymoon was one of that rare kind which begins with the wedding bells and has no ending4 ,they were married lovers all their days4 ,hawthorne had seen enough of solitariness in his bachelorhood to appreciate the rare companionship of his gifted wife1 and he wanted nothing more4 ,the dingy old parsonage was a ,paradise to them and the new ,adam and ,eve invited no intrusions into their ,eden4 ,some of their friends came occasionally1 it is true1 but ,hawthorne records that during the next winter the snow in the old avenue was marked by no footsteps save his own for weeks at a time4 ,and his loving wife1 though she had come from the midst of a large circle of friends1 found only happiness in sharing this solitude4 ,during the three years in which ,hawthorne lived in this ,old ,manse1 he seldom walked through the village1 was known to but few of his neighbors1 never went to the town-meeting1 and not often to church1 though he lived in a house that had been built by a minister and occupied by ministers so long that it was awful to reflect how many sermons must have been written there4 ,let us peep through the windows of the parlor at the end of the dark avenue and indulge in another flight of fancy4 ,it is an unusual day at the ,manse1 for two visitors have called to greet the new occupant4 ,the elder of the two1 a man in his fortieth year1 is ,ralph ,waldo ,emerson1 who lives in the other end of the town in a large1 comfortable1 and cheery house1 which we expect to see a little later4 ,he knows the ,old ,manse well4 ,his grandfather built it shortly before the outbreak of the ,revolution and witnessed the battle of ,concord from a window in the second story4 ,this good man1 who was the ,revolutionary parson of the village1 died in #aggf at the early age of thirty-three1 and a few years later his widow married the ,reverend ,ezra ,ripley1 who maintained1 for more than sixty years1 the reputation of the ,manse as a producer of sermons1 being succeeded by his son1 ,samuel1 also a minister4 ,in ,october1 #ahcd1 ,emerson came there with his mother and remained a year1 during which he wrote his first1 and one of his greatest essays1 ,nature4 ,the other visitor is ,henry ,d4 ,thoreau1 a young man of twenty-five1 then living with the ,emersons4 ,the two guests and their host are sitting bolt upright in stiff-backed chairs4 ,the host speaks scarcely a word except to ask1 for the sake of politeness1 a few formal questions1 which ,thoreau answers with equal brevity4 ,emerson alone talks freely1 but his words1 however much weighted with wisdom1 are those of a monologuist and do not beget conversation4 ,yet there is something in the manner of all three that seems to betray the unspoken thought4 ,hawthorne's observing eyes seem to be saying1 ,so this is ,emerson1 the man who1 they say1 is drawing all kinds of queer and oddly dressed people to this quiet little village1--visionaries1 theorists1 men and women who think they have discovered a new thought1 and come to him to see if it is genuine4 ,perhaps he might help solve some of my problems4 ,what a pure1 intellectual gleam seems to be diffused about him6 ,with what full and sweet tones he speaks and how persuasively6 ,how serene and tranquil he seems6 ,how reposeful1 as though he had adjusted himself1 with all reverence1 to the supreme requirements of life6 ,yet ,i am not sure ,i can trust his philosophy4 ,let me admire him as a poet and a true man1 but ,i shall ask him no questions4 ,then while ,thoreau is talking1 ,emerson gazes at ,hawthorne and reflects3 ,this man's face haunts me4 ,his manner fascinates me4 ,i talk to him and his eyes alone answer me2 and yet this seems sufficient4 ,he does not echo my thoughts4 ,he has a mind all his own4 ,he says so little that ,i fear ,i talk too much4 ,yet he is a greater man than his words betray4 ,i have never found pleasure in his writings1 yet ,i cannot help admiring the man4 ,some day ,i hope to know him better4 ,i have much to learn from him4 ,meanwhile ,hawthorne's gaze has turned upon the younger visitor4 ,what a wild creature he seems6 ,how original6 ,how unsophisticated6 ,how ugly he is1 with his long nose and queer mouth4 ,yet his manners are courteous and even his ugliness seems honest and agreeable4 ,i understand he drifts about like an ,indian1 has no fixed method of gaining a livelihood1 knows every path in the woods and will sit motionless beside a brook until the fishes1 and the birds1 and even the snakes will cease to fear his presence and come back to investigate him4 ,he is a poet1 too1 as well as a scientist1 and ,i am sure has the gift of seeing ,nature as no other man has ever done4 ,some day ,i must walk with him in the woods4 ,every man in the room loves freedom1 and hates conventionalities4 ,the ordinary formalities of polite society are unendurable4 ,therefore the four walls seem oppressive and the straight-back chairs produce an agonizing tension of the nerves4 ,they are all glad when the call is over4 ,illustration3 ,,walden ,,woods ,now let the scene change4 ,it is winter and the river behind the house is frozen4 ,in the glory of the setting sun1 its surface seems a smooth sea of transparent gold4 ,the edges of the stream are bordered with fantastic draperies1 hanging from the overarching trees in strange festoons of purest white4 ,once more our three friends appear1 but the four walls are gone and the wintry breeze has blown away all constraint4 ,all three lovers of the open air are now on skates4 ,thoreau circles about skillfully in a bewildering series of graceful curves1 for he is an expert at this form of sport and thinks nothing of skating up the river for miles in pursuit of a fox or other wild creature4 ,emerson finds it harder2 he leans forward until his straight back seems to parallel the ice and frequently returns to the shore to rest4 ,hawthorne1 if we may recall the words of his admiring wife1 moves like a self-impelled ,greek statue1 stately and grave1 as though acting a part in some classic drama1 yet fond of the sport and apparently indefatigable in its pursuit4 ,once more let the scene change4 ,summer has come again4 ,the icy decorations have given place to green boughs and rushes and meadow-grass which seem to be trying to crowd the river into narrower quarters4 ,a small boat is approaching the shore in the rear of the old house4 ,in the stern stands a young man who guides the craft as though by instinct4 ,with scarcely perceptible motions of the single paddle1 he makes it go in whatsoever direction he wills1 as though paddling were only an act of the mind4 ,the boat is called the ,musketaquid1 after the ,indian name of the river4 ,its pilot1 who is also its builder1 quickly reaches the shore1 and we recognize the man of ,nature1 ,thoreau4 ,hawthorne1 who has been admiring both the boat and steersman1 now steps aboard and the two friends are soon moving slowly among the lily-pads that line the margin of the river4 ,hawthorne is rowing4 ,he handles the oars with no great skill1 and as for paddling1 it would be impossible for him to make the boat answer his will4 ,thoreau plucks from the water a white pond-lily1 and remarks that this delicious flower opens its virgin bosom to the first sunlight and perfects its being through the magic of that genial kiss4 ,he says he has beheld beds of them unfolding in due succession as the sunrise stole gradually from flower to flower2 and this leads ,hawthorne to reflect that such a sight is not to be hoped for unless when a poet adjusts his inward eye to a proper focus with the outward organ4 ,we fancy that under these conditions their talk gushed like the babble of a fountain1 as ,hawthorne said it did when he went fishing with ,ellery ,channing4 ,but we must not linger at the gate of the ,old ,manse indulging these dreams1 for we have other pleasures in store4 ,a hundred yards beyond1 we turn into the bit of road1 at right angles with the highway1 now preserved because it was the scene of the famous ,concord fight4 ,a beautiful vista is made by the overarching of trees that have grown up since the battle1 and in the distance we see the ,monument1 the ,bridge1 and the ,minute ,man4 ,the ,monument marks the spot where the ,british soldiers stood and opened fire on the #aith of ,april1 #agge1 while the ,minute ,man stands at the place where the ,americans received their order to return the fire4 ,the ,monument was dedicated on the sixty-first anniversary of the battle1 ,emerson offering his famous ,concord ,hymn1 the opening stanza of which1 thirty-nine years later1 was carved on the pedestal of the ,minute ,man1 erected in commemoration of the centennial of the event3-- ,by the rude bridge that arched the flood1 ,their flag to ,april's breeze unfurled1 ,here once the embattled farmers stood1 ,and fired the shot heard round the world4 ,the bridge is of no significance4 ,it is a recent structure of cement1 the wooden bridge over which the ,minute ,men charged having disappeared more than a century ago4 ,hawthorne took little interest in the battlefield1 though he did express a desire to open the graves of the two nameless ,british soldiers1 who lie buried by the roadside1 because of a tale that one of them had been killed by a boy with an axe--a fiendish yarn which we may be glad is not authenticated4 ,the great romancer confessed that the field between the battlefield and his house interested him far more because of the ,indian arrow-heads and other relics he could pick up there--a trick he had learned from ,thoreau4 ,on our way back to the village we made a turn to the left1 for a visit to ,sleepy ,hollow ,cemetery4 ,never was such a place more appropriately named4 ,an elliptical bowl1 bordered by grassy knolls1 with flowering shrubs and green groves1 forms a perfect cradle among the hills in which sleep generation after generation of the inhabitants of old ,concord4 ,on the opposite side of the hollow1 well up the slope of the hill and shaded by many trees1 we came to the graves of the ,emersons1 the ,thoreaus1 and the ,hawthornes1 in neighborly proximity4 ,the ,emerson grave seemed eminently satisfactory4 ,a rough-hewn boulder at the foot of a tall pine marks the resting-place of a strong1 sincere1 and unpretentious character1 who lived close to ,nature4 ,by his side lies ,lidian1 his wife1 with an inscription on her tombstone1 which few1 perchance1 stop to read1 but which ought to be read by all who can appreciate this rare tribute to a woman's worth3-- ,in her youth an unusual sense of the ,divine ,presence was granted her and she retained through life the impress of that high ,communion4 ,to her children she seemed in her native ascendancy and unquestioning courage1 a ,queen1 a ,flower in elegance and delicacy4 ,the love and care for her husband and children was her first earthly interest but with overflowing compassion her heart went out to the slave1 the sick and the dumb creation4 ,she remembered them that were in bonds as bound with them4 ,thoreau's grave is not quite so satisfactory4 ,it creates the impression that the poet and naturalist who brought fame to his family was only one of a considerable number of children and died in infancy with all the rest4 ,it is marked with a small headstone and the single name1 ,henry4 ,in the center of the lot a larger stone records the names of all the members of the family who lie buried there4 ,the ,hawthorne grave is wholly unsatisfactory4 ,it is not easily found by a stranger1 even after careful directions4 ,the small lot is inclosed by an ugly fence1 only partially concealed by a poorly kept hedge4 ,by making an effort one can peep through and see a simple headstone with the name ,hawthorne4 ,the most conspicuous object in the inclosure is a big sign warning the public not to pluck the leaves1 etc41 and ending with the curt injunction1 ,have respect for the living if not for the dead4 ,the unsightly fence and the rudeness of the sign clang discordantly upon the sensibilities of those who have been taught to admire the gracious hospitality and courteous disposition of the man4 ,we came to gaze reverently upon the grave of a man whom we had seemed to know for many years as a personal friend1 but found ourselves treated with contempt as if we were merely vulgar seekers for useless souvenirs6 ,let us get back to the village and see the things of life4 ,next to the ,old ,manse1 the most interesting house in ,concord is ,emerson's4 ,it is southeast of the public square1 at the point where the ,cambridge ,turnpike joins the ,lexington ,road4 ,when ,emerson bought it in #ahce1 it was on the outskirts of the village and not prepossessing4 ,he said1 himself1 ,it is in a mean place1 and cannot be fine until trees and flowers give it a character of its own4 ,but we shall crowd so many books and papers1 and1 if possible1 wise friends into it1 that it shall have as much wit as it can carry4 ,in ,september of that year1 ,emerson went to ,plymouth and was married to ,miss ,lydia ,jackson1 in a colonial mansion belonging to the bride1 who suggested that they remain there4 ,but ,concord had charms which the poet could not sacrifice1 so the couple established themselves in the big house at the southern edge of the village1 where1 ere long1 the philosopher was dividing time between his study and the vegetable-garden1 while ,lidian1 as her husband preferred to call her1 set out her favorite flowers transplanted from the garden at ,plymouth4 ,illustration3 ,,house ,,of ,,ralph ,,waldo ,,emerson ,the first thing that strikes your eye1 as you pass the ,emerson house1 is the row of great horse-chestnuts shading its front4 ,mr4 ,coolidge1 of ,boston1 who built the house in #ahbh1 remembered the lofty chestnuts of his boyhood home in ,bowdoin ,square and promptly set to work to duplicate them when he completed his new country house4 ,emerson added to his original two acres until he had nine1 and planted an orchard of apple trees and pear trees1 on which ,thoreau did the grafting4 ,when ,i bought my farm1 said ,emerson1 ,i did not know what a bargain ,i had in the bluebirds1 bobolinks1 and thrushes1 which were not charged in the bill4 ,as little did ,i guess what sublime mornings and sunsets ,i was buying1 what reaches of landscape1 and what fields and lanes for a tramp4 ,to appreciate the full extent1 therefore1 of ,emerson's domain1 we must next visit the favorite objective of his ,sunday walks1 ,walden ,pond1 only a mile or two away4 ,walden ,pond is a pretty sheet of water1 about half a mile long1 completely inclosed by trees1 which grow very near to the water's edge4 ,i fancy the visitors who go there may be divided into two classes3 first1 those who go for a swim in the cool1 deep waters1 as ,hawthorne liked to do2 and second1 those who go to lay a stone upon the cairn that marks the site of ,thoreau's hut4 ,it is well worth a pilgrimage1 in these days1 to see the place where a man actually built a dwelling-house at a cost of #bh4aba_/b and lived in it two years at an estimated expense of #a4ji a month4 ,one of his extravagances was a watermelon1 costing two cents1 and this was classified in his summary among the ,experiments which failed6 ,the site of the hut was admirably chosen4 ,it overlooks a little cove or bay1 and the still surface of the pond1 glimpses of which could be seen through the trees1 reflecting the blue sky overhead1 made a beautiful picture4 ,we must now return to the village1 for there are two more houses to be seen1 both on the ,lexington ,road4 ,the first is the ,alcott house1 now restored to something like its original condition and preserved as a memorial to the author of ,little ,women4 ,a4 ,bronson ,alcott came to live in ,concord in #ahdj1 having visited there for the first time five years earlier4 ,emerson at once hailed him as the most extraordinary man and the highest genius of his time4 ,he marveled at the steadiness of his vision before which we little men creep about ashamed4 ,the ,sage of ,concord was too modest and time failed to justify his enthusiasm for the new neighbor4 ,he came to admit that ,alcott1 though a man of lofty spirit1 could not be trusted as to matters of fact2 that he did not have the power to write or otherwise communicate his thoughts2 and that he was like a gold-ore1 sometimes found in ,california1 in which the gold is in combination with such other elements that no chemistry is able to separate it without great loss4 ,alcott was a handy man with tools1 could construct fanciful summer-houses or transform a melodeon into a bookcase1 as a piece of his handiwork in the restored house will testify4 ,but in intellectual matters he fired his bullets of wisdom so far over the heads of his fellow men that they never came down1 and therefore penetrated nobody's brain4 ,this lack of practical wisdom came near bringing disaster to the family4 ,but his daughter came to the rescue with ,little ,women1 a book that has had an astonishing success from the first4 ,originally published in #ahfh1 it has had a circulation estimated at one million copies and is still in demand4 ,in the winter of #ahfb-fc1 ,louisa ,m4 ,alcott marched off to war1 carrying several volumes of ,dickens along with her lint and bandages1 determined that she would not only bind up the soldiers' wounds1 but also relieve the tedium of their hospital life during the long days of convalescence4 ,when she was ready to start1 ,alcott said he was sending his only son4 ,girl visitors to the old ,orchard house take great delight in the haunts of ,meg1 ,amy1 ,beth1 and ,joe1 and particularly in ,amy's bedroom1 where the young artist's drawings on the doors and window-frames are still preserved4 ,just beyond the ,alcott house is a pine grove on the side of a hill and then the ,wayside1 ,hawthorne's home for the last twelve years of his life4 ,when ,hawthorne left the ,old ,manse1 he went to ,salem1 then to ,lenox1 and for a short time to ,west ,newton4 ,in the summer of #aheb1 he returned to ,concord1 having purchased the ,wayside from ,alcott4 ,while living in ,lenox he had written ,the ,wonder-,book1 which so fascinated the children1 including their elders as well1 that his first task upon settling in the new home was to prepare1 in response to many urgent demands1 a second series of the same kind to be known as ,the ,tanglewood ,tales4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,wayside ,in the following spring the family sailed for ,liverpool1 where ,hawthorne was to be the ,american ,consul1 and from this journey he did not return until #ahfj1 seven years later4 ,he was then at the height of his fame as the author of ,the ,scarlet ,letter1 ,the ,house of the ,seven ,gables1 and ,the ,marble ,faun4 ,as soon as his family was settled in the ,wayside1 he began extensive alterations1 the most remarkable of which is the tower1 which not only spoiled the architecture of the building1 but failed1 partially at least1 to serve its primary purpose as a study4 ,it was a room about twenty feet square1 reached by a narrow stairway where the author could shut himself in against all intrusion4 ,a small stove made the air stifling in winter1 and the sun's rays upon the roof made it unbearable in summer4 ,nevertheless1 ,hawthorne managed to make some use of it and here he wrote ,our ,old ,home4 ,i fancy he must have composed most of it while walking back and forth in the seclusion of the pine grove which he had purchased with the house4 ,and here in this pleasant grove we must leave him for the present1 while we go back to ,boston and thence to ,salem1 to search out a few more old houses1 which would fall into decay and finally disappear without notice1 like hundreds of others of the same kind1 but for the one simple fact that the touch of ,hawthorne's presence1 more than half a century ago1 conferred upon these dingy old buildings a dignity and interest that draw to them annually a host of visitors from all parts of the ,united ,states4 ,,ii ,,salem ,on arrival at ,salem we inquired of a local druggist whether he could direct us to any of the ,hawthorne landmarks4 ,he promptly pleaded ignorance1 but referred us to an old citizen who chanced to be in the store and who admitted that he knew all about the town1 having been born and raised there4 ,did he know whether there was a real ,house of ,seven ,gables8 ,well1 he had heard of such a place1 but it was torn down long ago4 ,could he direct us to the ,custom ,house8 ,oh1 yes1 right down the street3 he would show us the way4 ,any houses where ,hawthorne had lived8 ,well1 no1--he hadn't followed that much4 ,had any of his family ever seen ,hawthorne1 or spoken of him8 ,yes--but he didn't amount to much3 kind of a lazy fellow4 ,people here didn't set much store by him4 ,we were moving away1 fearing that the old fellow would offer to accompany us and thereby spoil some of our anticipated enjoyment of the old houses1 when he called after us--,say1 there's an old house right down this street that ,i've heard had something to do with ,hawthorne4 ,i don't know just what1 but maybe the folks there can tell you4 ,it's just this side of the graveyard4 ,we thanked the old man1 and following his directions1 soon stood before an old three-story wooden house1 with square front1 big chimneys1 and its upper windows considerably shorter than those below--a type common enough in ,salem and other ,new ,england towns4 ,it stood directly on the sidewalk and had a small1 inclosed porch1 with oval windows on each side1 through which one could look up or down the street4 ,in all these details it agreed exactly with ,hawthorne's description of the house of ,dr4 ,grimshawe4 ,adjoining it on the left was the very graveyard where ,nat and little ,elsie chased butterflies and played hide-and-seek among the quaint old tombstones1 which had puffy little cherubs and doleful verses carved upon them4 ,that corner room1 no doubt1 that overlooks the graveyard1 was old ,dr4 ,grim's study1 so thickly festooned with cobwebs1 where the grisly old monomaniac sat with his long clay pipe and bottle of brandy1 with no better company than an enormous tropical spider1 which hung directly above his head and seemed at times to be the incarnation of the ,evil ,one himself4 ,how could ,hawthorne1 in his later years1 conceive such horrible suggestions in connection with a house which must have been associated in his mind with the happiest memories of his life8 ,for here lived the ,peabody family1 ,dr4 ,nathaniel ,peabody and his highly cultivated wife1 their three sons1 only one of whom lived to maturity1 and their three remarkable daughters--,elizabeth ,palmer1 who achieved fame as one of the foremost kindergartners of ,america and died at a ripe old age2 ,mary1 who became the wife of ,horace ,mann2 and the gentle1 scholarly1 and high-minded ,sophia1 who refused to come down to see ,hawthorne1 on plea of illness1 the first time he called at the house1 but fell in love with him at a subsequent visit4 ,the calls were frequent enough after that1 and before the family left the old house to reside in ,boston1 the lovers were engaged to be married4 ,during the period of the courtship1 ,hawthorne lived with his mother and two sisters in a house on ,herbert ,street not far distant1 and the two families came into close neighborly relations4 ,of course1 we walked over to ,herbert ,street to find this house1 but what remains of it has been remodeled into an ordinary tenement house and no longer resembles the house to which ,sophia ,peabody once sent a bouquet of tulips for ,mr4 ,hawthorne1 only to have it quietly appropriated by his sister ,elizabeth1 who thought her brother incapable of appreciating flowers1 though she kindly permitted him to look at them6 ,in the rear of this building1 fronting on ,union ,street1 is the plain1 two-story-and-a-half house1 with a gambrel roof1 where ,hawthorne was born4 ,when the ,hawthornes returned to ,salem1 after their residence in the ,old ,manse1 they occupied the ,herbert ,street house1 with ,madam ,hawthorne and her two daughters1 ,elizabeth and ,louisa4 ,this proved inconvenient for so large a family and they moved into a three-story house on ,chestnut ,street1 well shaded by some fine old elms4 ,this was only a temporary arrangement1 and soon afterward1 the family took a large three-story house on ,mall ,street1 where the mother and sisters occupied separate apartments4 ,hawthorne's study was on the third floor--near enough his own family for convenience1 but sufficiently remote for quiet4 ,it was to this house that he returned one day in dejected mood and announced that he had been removed from his position at the ,custom ,house4 ,oh6 then1 you can write your book6 was the unexpectedly joyous reply of his wife1 who knew that he had a story weighing on his mind4 ,and then she produced the savings which she had carefully hoarded to meet just such an emergency4 ,the ,scarlet ,letter was begun on the same day4 ,it was to this same house that ,james ,t4 ,fields came in the following winter and found ,hawthorne in despondent mood sitting in the upper room huddled over a small stove4 ,the preceding half-year had been the most trying period in his life4 ,discouragement over the loss of his position and the prospect of meager returns for his literary work was followed by serious pecuniary embarrassment1 for ,mrs4 ,hawthorne's store of gold was1 after all1 a tiny one4 ,the illness and death of his mother had left him in a nervous state from the great strain of emotion1 and this was followed by the sickness of every member of the household1 himself included4 ,the story of how ,fields left the house with the manuscript of ,the ,scarlet ,letter in his pocket is well known4 ,the immediate success of the novel proved to be the tonic that restored the author to health and happiness1 and when he left ,mall ,street in the following spring he was no longer the obscurest man of letters in ,america4 ,the old ,salem ,custom ,house is the best-known building in the town4 ,as we stood before it and looked upon the great eagle above the portico1 with a bunch of intermingled thunderbolts and barbed arrows in each claw and a truculent attitude that seemed to threaten mischief to the inoffensive community1 it seemed as though we might fairly expect the former surveyor1 or his ghost1 to open the door and walk down the old granite steps4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,mall ,,street ,,house ,i have already mentioned the apparent indifference toward ,hawthorne of a certain old citizen of ,salem--a feeling which characterizes a large part of the population1 particularly those whose ancestors have lived longest in the town4 ,one would naturally expect ,salem to be proud of her most distinguished citizen1 to delight in honoring him1 and to extend a cordial welcome to thousands of strangers who come to pay him homage4 ,shakespeare is the principal asset of ,stratford-on-,avon1 ,scott of ,melrose1 ,burns of ,ayr1 and ,wordsworth of the ,english ,lakes4 ,every citizen is ready to talk of them4 ,not so of ,hawthorne and ,salem4 ,the town is quite independent1 and would hold up its head if there had never been any ,hawthorne4 ,the later generation1 it is true1 recognize his greatness1 but the prejudice of the older families is sufficient to check any manifestation of enthusiasm4 ,this old ,custom ,house upon which we are looking furnishes the explanation4 ,when ,hawthorne took possession as surveyor1 he found offices ornamented with rows of sleepy officials1 sitting in old-fashioned chairs which were tilted on their hind legs against the walls4 ,these old gentlemen made an irresistible appeal to his sense of humor1 such that he could scarcely have avoided the impulse to write a description of their whimsicalities4 ,after his decapitation he yielded to the impulse and prepared in the best of good humor the amusing description of his former associates in the ,introduction to ,the ,scarlet ,letter4 ,it brought the wrath of ,salem upon his head4 ,these old fellows did not fancy being caricatured as wearisome old souls1 who seemed to have flung away all the golden grain of practical wisdom which they had enjoyed so many opportunities of harvesting1 and most carefully to have stored their memories with the husks4 ,especially enraged were the family of the ,old ,inspector of whom ,hawthorne said nothing worse than that he remembered all the good dinners he had eaten4 ,there were flavors on his palate that had lingered there not less than sixty or seventy years1 and were still apparently as fresh as that of the mutton chop which he had just devoured for his breakfast1 said ,hawthorne with fine humor4 ,he called one of them a pig1 said a ,salemite to me1 indignantly4 ,after all1 ,salem never really knew ,hawthorne4 ,though the town was his birthplace1 he had little liking for it1 and was seldom there4 ,during the four years of his incumbency of the ,custom ,house1 he kept aloof from the townspeople1 most of whom had no knowledge whatever of his literary efforts4 ,when the fame of ,the ,scarlet ,letter had made ,hawthorne's name a familiar one throughout ,america and ,england1 the author was no longer a resident of ,salem1 for immediately after the publication of his first and most famous novel1 he was glad to seek relief from the gloomy memories of ,mall ,street in the fresh mountain air of the ,berkshires4 ,hawthorne1 though apparently glad to escape1 still allowed his thought to dwell in ,salem1 for in the same year of the completion of ,the ,scarlet ,letter and his removal to ,lenox1 ,massachusetts1 he began ,the ,house of the ,seven ,gables4 ,the identity of this house has long been a matter of curiosity4 ,three old ,salem houses1 two of which have since disappeared1 have been pointed out as originals1 the authenticity of all of which has been denied by ,george ,parsons ,lathrop1 ,hawthorne's son-in-law1 who maintains that the author's statement1 that he built his house only of materials long in use for constructing castles in the air1 must be taken literally4 ,it must not be supposed that an author need ever describe such a building in detail or provide for its future identification4 ,he may do as ,scott often did1 put the details of three or four houses into one structure1 taking his material1 not out of the air1 but from recollections of many places he has seen4 ,it does not detract from the supposed original to find that the author has made material1 even radical1 departures from the original plan4 ,the real point of interest is to know whether the old landmark suggested anything to the author1 and if so1 how much4 ,to those who follow this line of reasoning1 an old house at the foot of ,turner ,street1 now commonly known as ,the ,house of the ,seven ,gables1 has many points of interest4 ,it is a weather-stained old building dating back to #affi1 and contains so many gables that you are reasonably content to accept seven as the number1 though ,i believe it has eight1 not counting the one over the rear porch1 recently added4 ,the identification of this house as the one which1 more than any other1 suggested to ,hawthorne the idea of a house of seven gables1 rests upon two facts4 ,the first is that in #aghb it came into the possession of ,captain ,samuel ,ingersoll1 whose wife was a niece of ,hawthorne's grandfather4 ,it passed1 later1 to their only surviving daughter1 ,susannah4 ,her portrait1 which now hangs in the parlor of the old house1 shows that1 as a young woman1 she was not unattractive4 ,an unfortunate love affair caused her to withdraw from society and to live a life of solitude in the old house1 from which all male visitors were rigidly excluded4 ,an exception seems to have been made in favor of her cousin ,nathaniel ,hawthorne1 who1 it is said1 was a frequent visitor and listened with interest to the legends of the house as told by his elder cousin4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,house ,,of ,,the ,,seven ,,gables ,the second fact of identification rests upon more recent evidence4 ,the building was purchased in #aijh by a generous resident of ,salem and turned into a settlement house4 ,this lady1 who possesses the highest antiquarian instincts1 determined to restore the house to its original form4 ,in doing so she discovered traces of four gables which had been removed4 ,these1 with three that remained1 made the desired seven1 but1 unfortunately1 about the same time an old plan was unearthed which proved that the house at one time must have had eight gables6 ,so the house has been restored to its full quota of eight4 ,when ,hawthorne was calling there it had only three gables1 and his elderly kinswoman must have told traditions of the time when it had seven or eight1 as the case may be4 ,and so the question of gables becomes as bewildering as ,tom ,sawyer's aunt's spoons4 ,aside from this not very profitable speculation1 the house is an interesting survival of the time when ,salem was a seaport town of some importance4 ,a secret staircase has been reconstructed according to the recollections of the man who took it down a quarter of a century ago4 ,it opens by a secret spring in a panel of the wall in the third-story front room1 now known as ,clifford's chamber1 and ascends through a false fireplace in the dining-room4 ,it will be remembered how ,clifford mysteriously disappeared from his room1 and as mysteriously reappeared in the parlor where ,judge ,pyncheon sat in the easy-chair1 dead4 ,perhaps he came down this secret stairway1 though ,hawthorne forgot to mention it4 ,a little shop1 where real gingerbread ,jim ,crows are sold1 makes the present ,house of the ,seven ,gables seem real1 so that when the bell tinkles as you open the door1 you would not be at all surprised if ,hepzibah ,pyncheon herself should appear1 entering from the quaint little ,new ,england kitchen on the right4 ,a sunny chamber upstairs now called ,phoebe's room1 and a pleasant little garden in the rear1 still further heighten the illusion and make one feel that if this is not the real ,house of the ,seven ,gables1 it certainly ought to be4 ,the conditions under which ,the ,house of the ,seven ,gables was written were quite the reverse of those which brought forth ,the ,scarlet ,letter4 ,instead of obscurity1 ill health1 and financial difficulties1 the author was now in the full flush of his fame1 reveling in the friendship of the most distinguished men of letters1 enjoying the best of health himself1 and happy in the consciousness that his dear wife was also well1 and living amid the most delightful surroundings1 free from care and taking no anxious thought for the morrow4 ,the people of ,salem are now preparing to make ample amends for any neglect of ,hawthorne in the past4 ,a committee of prominent citizens has been at work for several years upon a plan to erect a handsome statue upon the ,common1 the design for which has been made by a well-known artist1 and a portion of the funds collected4 ,with this monument before them1 we may reasonably hope that future generations will be able to forgive the frankness which irritated their ancestors1 though it was kindly meant1 and eventually open their hearts to adopt ,hawthorne as their very own1 just as ,stratford does ,shakespeare1 acknowledging the full extent of their obligation for the luster which his brilliant genius has shed upon their town4 ,,iii ,,portsmouth ,if ,thomas ,bailey ,aldrich were living to-day and could enter the front door of his grandfather's house in ,court ,street1 ,portsmouth1 ,new ,hampshire1 he would be likely to have a strange feeling of suddenly renewed youth1 for his eyes would rest upon the same rooms and many of the same furnishings as those which greeted him in #ahdi1 when he returned to the old house1 a lad of twelve1 to enter upon those happy boyish experiences so pleasantly related in ,the ,story of a ,bad ,boy4 ,and then1 as he passed from room to room and gazed once more upon the old familiar sights1 he would experience a deeper and richer joy--a sense of pride1 mingled with love and gratitude1 for this unique and splendid tribute to his memory1 from his faithful wife and many loyal friends4 ,in the summer of #aijg1 following the death of ,mr4 ,aldrich1 which occurred in the spring of that year1 it was suggested in a local newspaper of ,portsmouth1 ,new ,hampshire1 that the old ,bailey house1 where ,tom ,bailey lived with his ,grandfather ,nutter1 should be purchased by the town and refurnished as a permanent memorial to its distinguished son4 ,the response was instant and hearty4 ,the ,thomas ,bailey ,aldrich ,memorial ,association was at once formed1 and a fund of ten thousand dollars was raised by popular subscriptions1 in sums varying from one dollar to one thousand dollars4 ,the house1 which had fallen into alien hands and had not been kept in good repair1 was purchased and restored to its original condition1 and the heirs gladly gave back all that had been taken away at the death of ,grandfather ,bailey4 ,on ,june #cj1 #aijh1 the restored house was formally dedicated by a distinguished representation of ,aldrich's friends1 including ,richard ,watson ,gilder1 ,william ,dean ,howells1 ,hamilton ,wright ,mabie1 ,thomas ,wentworth ,higginson1 ,thomas ,nelson ,page1 ,samuel ,l4 ,clemens1 and many others whose names are well known4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,bailey ,,house ,the ,nutter house1 or the ,aldrich ,memorial as it is officially known1 impresses one with a sense of perfect satisfaction4 ,i have seen memorials that are barn-like in their emptiness1 so difficult has it been to secure a sufficient number of relics to furnish the rooms2 others impress me like shops for the sale of souvenirs2 others have the cold1 touch-me-not aspect of a museum2 and some are overloaded with busts1 pictures1 and inscriptions intended to convey an impression of the greatness of the former occupant4 ,the ,nutter house1 on the contrary1 looks as though ,tom and his grandfather had gone off to the village an hour before1 and ,aunt ,abigail and ,kitty ,collins1 after tidying the rooms to perfection1 had slipped away to gossip with the neighbors4 ,the visitor has a feeling that real people are living there and is surprised to learn that at a certain hour each day the attendants go away and lock it up for the night4 ,mrs4 ,aldrich told us that when her husband took her there for the first time1 as his bride1 the old house made such a strong impression upon her mind that when she came to restore the place1 many years afterward1 she remembered distinctly where every piece of furniture used to stand4 ,the perfection of her work is seen in the hundreds of little touches--the shawl thrown carelessly over the back of a chair1 the fan lying on the sofa1 the books on the center table1 the music on the old-fashioned square piano1 grandfather's ,bible and spectacles on his bedroom table1 the embroidered coverlet in the blue-chintz room1 the netting over ,aunt ,abigail's bed1 the clothing in the closets1 and even the night-clothes carefully laid out on each corpulent feather bed4 ,i fancy the most loving touches of all were given to the little hall bedroom where ,tom ,bailey slept4 ,there is the little window out of which ,tom swung himself1 with the aid of ,kitty ,collins's clothes-line1 at the awful hour of eleven o'clock1 and tumbled into a big rosebush1 on the night before the ,fourth4 ,the pretty chintz curtain may not be the one ,tom knew1 but it is very like it2 and there is a very good imitation of the original wall-paper1 on which ,tom counted two hundred and sixty-eight birds1 each individual one of which he admired1 although no such bird ever existed4 ,he knew the exact number because he once counted them when laid up with a black eye and dreamed that the whole flock flew out of the window4 ,the little bed has a patch quilt of more colors than were in ,joseph's coat1 and across it lies a clean white waistcoat waiting for ,tom to put it on1 as though to-morrow would be ,sunday4 ,above the head of the bed are the two oak shelves1 holding the very books that ,tom loved4 ,in front of the window is the high-backed chair studded with brass nails like a coffin1 and on the right a chest of carved mahogany drawers and a looking-glass in a filigreed frame4 ,a little swallow-tailed coat1 once worn by ,tom1 hangs over the back of a chair1 ready to be worn again4 ,surely ,tom ,bailey is expected home to-night6 ,even the garret is ready in case to-morrow should be stormy4 ,here meet together1 as if by some preconcerted arrangement1 all the broken-down chairs of the household1 all the spavined tables1 all the seedy hats1 all the intoxicated-looking boots1 all the split walking-sticks that have retired from business1 weary with the march of life4 ,one slight liberty has been taken1 in placing ,the ,rivermouth ,theater in one corner of the attic1 next to ,kitty ,collins's room1 but this may be forgiven in view of the fact that the barn1 where the ,theater really was1 has disappeared4 ,in our anxiety to see ,tom's room and the attic1 we have rushed upstairs somewhat too rapidly4 ,let us now go down and inspect the other rooms with more leisure4 ,in the front of the house1 on the second floor1 and at the left of the tiny bedroom which ,tom occupied1 is ,grandfather ,nutter's room4 ,it was too near for ,tom's convenience1 and that is why the young gentleman lowered himself from the window by a rope--at least1 that was the reason he doubtless argued to himself in favor of the more romantic mode of exit1 although as a matter of fact grandfather was a sound sleeper and ,tom might have walked boldly downstairs without awakening him4 ,still he would have had to pass the door of ,aunt ,abigail's room at the head of the stairs1 and if the old lady had suddenly appeared1 ,tom could scarcely have escaped a dose of hot drops1 which his aunt considered a certain cure for any known ailment1 from a black eye to a broken arm4 ,aunt ,abigail1 it will be remembered1 was the maiden sister of ,captain ,nutter1 who swooped down on him1 at the funeral of the captain's wife1 with a bandbox in one hand and a faded blue cotton umbrella in the other4 ,though apparently intending to stay only a few days1 she decided that her presence was indispensable to the captain1 and whether he wished it or not she kept on staying for seventeen years1 and might have stayed longer had not death released her from the self-imposed duty4 ,on the right of ,tom's room is the blue-chintz room1 into which a ray of sun was never allowed to penetrate4 ,but it was thrown open and dusted1 and its mouldy air made sweet with a bouquet of pot-roses on the occasion of ,nelly ,glentworth's visit1 and a very delightful room ,nelly must have found it1 if it looked as well then as it does now1 under the skillful direction of ,mrs4 ,aldrich4 ,across the hall from ,aunt ,abigail's room is the guest chamber4 ,an old-fashioned rocking-chair by the window1 with a ,bible and candle conveniently placed on a stand close by1 offer the visitor every opportunity to get himself into a proper frame of mind before taking a plunge into the depths of the snow-white mountain of feathers1 hospitably piled up to an enormous height for his comfort4 ,illustration3 ,,aunt ,,abigail',s ,,room ,descending now to the main floor 7for we are inspecting this house exactly contrary to the usual order71 we step into the large corner room at our left4 ,here visions arise of ,tom sitting disconsolately on the haircloth sofa1 in the evening1 driven to distraction by the monotonous click-click of ,aunt ,abigail's knitting-needles1 but sometimes happily diverted by the spectacle of grandfather going to sleep over his newspaper and setting fire to it with the small block-tin lamp which he held in his hand4 ,across the hall is the parlor1 which was seldom open except on ,sundays1 and was pervaded by a strong smell of center table4 ,here again we fancy ,tom sitting in one corner1 crushed4 ,all his favorite books are banished to the sitting-room closet until ,monday morning4 ,there is nothing to do and nothing to read except ,baxter's ,saint's ,rest4 ,genial converse1 harmless books1 smiles1 lightsome hearts1 all are banished4 ,it was no fault of the room1 however1 that ,tom felt doleful1 for there is a fine1 wide1 open fireplace with big brass andirons from which a wonderful amount of cheer might have been extracted1 while a piano in one corner and some shelves of books in another were capable of providing boundless entertainment1 had the room been accessible on any other day than ,sunday4 ,passing down through the hall we enter a door on the left1 into the dining-room4 ,do you remember how ,captain ,nutter tormented poor ,tom at the breakfast table1 on the morning of the ,fourth of ,july1 by reading from the ,rivermouth ,barnacle an account of the burning of the stage-coach the night before8 ,miscreants unknown1 read the grandfather1 while ,tom's hair stood on end4 ,five dollars reward offered for the apprehension of the perpetrators4 ,sho6 ,i hope ,wingate will catch them1 continued the old gentleman1 while ,tom nearly ceased to breathe4 ,and the sly old fox knew all about it and had already settled ,tom's share of the damages6 ,we now cross the hall into the kitchen1 which we ought to have visited first1 as everybody else does4 ,a more delightful ,new ,england kitchen could scarcely be imagined4 ,this was the only place where ,sailor ,ben felt at home--and no wonder1 for how could any room have a more inviting fireplace8 ,here ,tom sought refuge when oppressed by the atmosphere of the sitting-room and found relief in ,kitty ,collins's funny ,irish stories4 ,and here ,sailor ,ben gathered the whole family around the table while he spun his yarn all about a man as has made a fool of hisself4 ,this is the delightful fact about the ,nutter house of to-day--every room brings back memories of ,tom ,bailey1 ,grandfather ,nutter1 ,aunt ,abigail1 ,kitty ,collins1 and ,sailor ,ben4 ,the furnishings are so perfect that we should not have been surprised if any one of these old friends had suddenly confronted us4 ,our minds were concentrated upon their personalities and upon ,the ,story of a ,bad ,boy4 ,the illusion is so complete that we scarcely gave a thought to the author of the tale until we entered the ,memorial building at the rear4 ,suddenly ,tom ,bailey vanished and with him all the other ghosts of the old house4 ,we stood in the presence of ,thomas ,bailey ,aldrich1 the poet1 the writer of a multitude of delightful tales1 and the man of genial personality4 ,here1 in a single large room1 are brought together the priceless autographs1 manuscripts1 first editions1 and pictures which ,aldrich had found pleasure in collecting4 ,here is the little table on which he wrote ,the ,story of a ,bad ,boy1 and there are cases containing countless presents1 trophies1 and expressions of regard from his friends4 ,the walls are hung with manuscripts1 framed in connection with portraits of their distinguished writers1 as ,aldrich loved to have them4 ,at the end of the room is a handsome oil painting of ,aldrich himself4 ,everything tends to suggest the exquisite taste of the man1 his genial nature1 his varied attainments1 and the extent of his wide circle of distinguished friends4 ,above all1 the room speaks in eloquent terms of the affectionate loyalty to his memory that has led his family to bring together the material for a memorial unsurpassed in variety of interest and tasteful arrangement of details4 ,even the garden in the rear of the house is made to sing its song in memory of ,aldrich1 for here are growing all the flowers mentioned in his poetry1 blending their perfumes and uniting harmoniously their richness of color in one graceful tribute to the beauty and delicacy of his verse4 ,illustration3 ,,an ,,old ,,wharf ,after living over again the scenes of ,the ,story of a ,bad ,boy1 in so far as they were suggested by the ,nutter house1 it was only natural that we should wish to stroll about the ,old ,town by the ,sea in the hope of identifying some of the out-of-door scenes of young ,bailey's exploits4 ,the first house on the right1 as we walked toward the river1 is the ,william ,pitt ,tavern4 ,in the early days of the ,revolution it was an aristocratic hotel1 much frequented by the ,tories1 and kept by a certain astute landlord named ,john ,stavers4 ,he had formerly kept a tavern on ,state ,street1 known as the ,earl of ,halifax1 and when it became necessary to move to the newer house in ,court ,street1 he carried sign and all with him4 ,but the patriots1 whose resort was the old ,bell ,tavern1 kept a jealous eye on the ,earl of ,halifax1 and in #aggg attacked it1 seriously damaging the building4 ,master ,stavers1 being at heart neither ,tory nor patriot1 but primarily an innkeeper1 promptly changed both his politics and his sign4 ,the latter became ,william ,pitt1 in honor of the colonists' ,english friend and supporter1 and the thrifty landlord began to entertain the leaders of the ,revolution at his house4 ,john ,hancock1 ,elbridge ,gerry1 and ,edward ,rutledge decorated with their autographs the pages of his register as well as the ,declaration of ,independence4 ,general ,knox was a frequent visitor and ,lafayette came there in #ahhb4 ,moreover1 the old tavern has had the honor of entertaining the last of the ,french kings1 ,louis ,philippe1 who came there with his two brothers during the ,french ,revolution1 and the first ,american ,president1 who was a guest in #aghi4 ,all this glory had long since departed in ,aldrich's day1 and his chief interest in the old tavern lay in the fact that he could climb up the dingy stairs to the top floor and listen for hours to the stories of the olden times1 as told by ,dame ,jocelyn1 with whom1 as she asserted1 ,washington had flirted just a little1 though in a stately and highly finished manner6 ,continuing down the street1 we found the empty old warehouses and rotting wharves among which ,aldrich spent so many hours of his boyhood1 and we took a picture of one old crumbling dock1 which we felt sure must have been very like the one upon which the boys of the ,rivermouth ,centipedes fired a broadside from ,bailey's ,battery4 ,the old abandoned guns1 twelve in all1 were cleaned out1 loaded1 provided with fuses1 and set off mysteriously at midnight1 much to the astonishment of the ,rivermouthians1 who thought the town was being bombarded or that the end of the world had come4 ,the old wharf possessed a singular fascination for me because ,i still recall how vividly the incident impressed me in my boyhood and how fervently ,i envied ,tom ,bailey his unusual opportunities4 ,nor did it mar my enjoyment in the least to learn that the wharf ,i was looking at was not the right place1 the real one1 where the guns were stored1 having been removed some time ago4 ,it was near the ,point of ,graves1 the spot where the boys went in bathing and where ,binny ,wallace's body was washed ashore after the ill-fated cruise of the ,dolphin4 ,the real ,binny1 by the way1 was not drowned at all4 ,the author1 here1 deviated from the facts to make his story more dramatic4 ,point of ,graves takes its name from the old burying-ground1 occupying a triangular space near the river's edge4 ,it has quaint old tombstones dating back as far as #afhb1 with curious epitaphs1 skulls1 and cherubs carved upon them4 ,here is the place where ,tom ,bailey1 disappointed in love and determined to become a blighted being1 used to lie in the long grass1 speculating on the advantages and disadvantages of being a cherub--the disadvantages being that the cherub1 having only a head and wings1 could not sit down when he was tired and could not possess trousers pockets6 ,a stroll through this part of the town1 which in olden times was the center of its trade and commerce1 is like walking through some of the old ,english villages4 ,every house1 nearly1 has its history1 and ,i fancy the streets have not greatly changed their appearance since the days of ,aldrich's boyhood4 ,on the corner of ,fleet and ,state ,streets we came to an old house1 which has an interesting connection with our story4 ,a part of it was occupied as a candy store for nearly sixty years4 ,on the ,fourth of ,july1 after ,tom had treated the boys to root-beer1 a single glass of which insured an uninterrupted pain for twenty-four hours1 they came here for ice-cream4 ,it is said that one of the ringleaders subsequently celebrated every third of ,july1 until his death1 by eating ice-cream in the same room4 ,the story was based upon an incident that really happened in #ahdg1 in which1 of course1 ,aldrich could have had no part1 as he was not then living in ,portsmouth4 ,i am inclined to doubt whether the real event was half so delightful as the tale which ,aldrich tells1 of the twelve sixpenny ice-creams1 strawberry and verneller mixed1 and how poor ,tom was left to pay for the whole crowd1 who slipped out of the window while he was in another room ordering more cream6 ,no doubt we might have coupled many other places in ,portsmouth with ,the ,story of a ,bad ,boy--for it is a very real story1 though not to be taken literally in every detail4 ,it is interesting to think of the town1 also1 as the scene of ,prudence ,palfrey4 ,the old ,bell ,tavern1 where ,mr4 ,dillingham boarded1 ceased to exist as a public house in #aheb and was destroyed by fire fifteen years later4 ,it is pleasant also to follow ,aldrich in a walk through the streets1 with a copy of ,an ,old ,town by the ,sea for a guide1 and note all the fine old houses he so charmingly describes4 ,but we must not devote our entire time to ,aldrich1 for an older poet has a slight claim to our attention4 ,the opening scene of ,longfellow's ,lady ,wentworth1 in the ,tales of a ,wayside ,inn1 is laid in ,state ,street4 ,one hundred years ago and something more1 ,in ,queen ,street1 ,portsmouth1 at her tavern door1-- is the way the poem opens4 ,queen ,street was the old name for ,state ,street1 and the tavern was the old ,earl of ,halifax before ,master ,stavers carried the sign over to the new house in ,court ,street4 ,it has long since disappeared4 ,it was before this house that the barefooted and ragged little beauty1 ,martha ,hilton1 was rebuked by ,dame ,stavers for appearing on the street half-dressed and looking so shabby1 to which she quickly replied3-- ,no matter how ,i look3 ,i yet shall ride ,in my own chariot1 ma'am4 ,the house to which she did drive in her own chariot1 many a time in later days1 as the wife of ,governor ,wentworth1 is one of the most pleasantly situated of all the houses in ,portsmouth4 ,it is at ,little ,harbor1 on one of the many peninsulas that jut out into the ,piscataqua1 below the town1 and commands a fine view of the beautiful river and its many islands4 ,the house is a large wooden building containing forty-five rooms1 though originally it had fifty-two4 ,architecturally it is unattractive1 external beauty of design having been sacrificed to utility4 ,within1 unwonted splendors met the eye1 ,panels and floors of oak1 and tapestry2 ,carved chimney pieces1 where on brazen dogs ,reveled and roared the ,christmas fires of logs4 ,the historic building1 with its great ,chamber where the ,governor and his ,council met for their deliberations1 still remains in almost its original state4 ,one could spend many days in ,portsmouth investigating its connection with the history of the country1 from the early explorations in #afjc of ,martin ,pring and the visit in #afad of ,captain ,john ,smith1 down through the settlements of ,david ,thomson and ,captain ,john ,mason1 the ,indian wars and massacres1 the incidents of the ,revolution1 and the rise and fall of the town's commerce1 and find plenty of old landmarks to give zest to the pursuit4 ,but our search1 at present1 is for literary landmarks4 ,we1 therefore1 take passage on the little steamer that plies to and from the ,isles of ,shoals for a pilgrimage to the ,island ,garden of ,celia ,thaxter4 ,,iv ,,the ,,isles ,,of ,,shoals ,it is a pleasant sail down the ,piscataqua1 past the old slumberous wharves1 where the sunshine seems to lie a foot deep in the planks2 past the long bridges2 the numerous clusters of islands2 the white sails of the yacht club1 hovering like gulls about the huge battleships1 moored to the docks of the navy yard2 the ruins of ,fort ,constitution1 formerly ,fort ,william and ,mary1 famed in history1 but more interesting to us as the place where ,prudence ,palfrey came near surrendering her heart to the infamous ,dillingham2 the ancient town of ,newcastle with its old-fashioned dwellings mingling with pretty new summer cottages1 the whole dominated by the white walls of a huge hotel2 ,kittery ,point1 birthplace of ,sir ,william ,pepperell1 the famous ,governor and ,indian fighter3 and at last1 the broad ,atlantic1 stretching to the eastward with nothing to obstruct the view save a few tiny specks1 dimly visible in the distance4 ,these are the ,isles of ,shoals1 looking so small that they seem to be only rocks jutting a few feet above the sea1 upon which it would be impossible to land4 ,as we approach ,appledore1 the islands still seem to be only a cluster of barren rocks1 with a few scattered buildings4 ,the charm which they undoubtedly exert upon those who come year after year does not immediately manifest itself to the stranger4 ,he must spend a night there1 breathing the pure sea air1 watching in the early evening the glistening lights on the far-off shore1 and finally falling asleep to dream that he is in mid-ocean1 on one of the steadiest of steamers1 enjoying the luxury of absolute rest1 for which there is no better prescription than an ocean voyage4 ,in the morning1 he must walk around the island--it can be done in an hour or two--threading the narrow paths through the huckleberry bushes and picking his way over the high rocks that present their front to the full force of the waves1 on the side of ,appledore that faces the sea4 ,here he will see artists spreading their easels and canvases for a day's work and less busy people settling down in various shady nooks1 to read1 to chat1 to knit1 to dream4 ,to get the real spirit of the islands it is advisable to find one of these quiet nooks and read ,celia ,thaxter's ,among the ,isles of ,shoals1 a book of sketches for which the author needlessly apologizes1 but of which ,mrs4 ,annie ,fields says1 ,she portrays1 in a prose which for beauty and wealth of diction has few rivals1 the unfolding of sky and sea and solitude and untrammeled freedom1 such as have been almost unknown to civilized humanity in any age of the world4 ,celia ,thaxter is herself the ,spirit of the ,isles of ,shoals1 and if we are to know and love them1 we must take her as our guide4 ,she will be found an efficient one and there is no other4 ,illustration3 ,,celia ,,thaxter',s ,,cottage ,with this purpose in mind1 we began our tour of the islands1 book in hand1 stopping first at the cottage of ,mrs4 ,thaxter4 ,one room is maintained somewhat as she left it1 with every square foot of wall space covered by her pictures4 ,but the flower-garden is sadly neglected4 ,only the vines that still clamber over the porch1 and a few hollyhocks that stubbornly refuse to die1 remain to suggest the dooryard where the garden flowers used to fairly run mad with color4 ,the salt air and some peculiar richness of the soil seem to impart unusual brilliancy to the blossoms and strength to the roots of all kinds of flowers1 whether wild or cultivated4 ,celia ,thaxter was one of those people for whom flowers will grow4 ,they responded with blushing enthusiasm to the constant manifestations of her love and tender care4 ,flowers have a great deal of humanity about them after all4 ,they refuse to display their real luxuriance for cold1 careless1 or indifferent people1 just as babies and dogs know how to distinguish between those who love them and those who love only themselves4 ,more dear to me than words can tell ,was every cup and spray and leaf2 ,too perfect for a life so brief ,seemed every star and bud and bell4 ,celia ,thaxter loved her flowers with a devotion born of the hours of solitude when they were her sole companions4 ,the little spot of earth on which they grow is like a mass of jewels4 ,who shall describe the pansies1 richly streaked with burning gold2 the dark velvet coreopsis and the nasturtiums2 the larkspurs1 blue and brilliant as lapis-lazuli2 the 'ardent marigolds' that flame like mimic suns8 ,the sweet peas are of a deep1 bright rose-color1 and their odor is like rich wine1 too sweet almost to be borne1 except when the pure fragrance of mignonette is added1--such mignonette as never grows on shore4 ,why should the poppies blaze in such imperial scarlet8 ,what quality is hidden in this thin soil1 which so transfigures all the familiar flowers with fresh beauty8 ,unfortunately1 the mysterious quality hidden in the soil1 assisted by the warm sunshine and the salt air1 with all their powers could not maintain the island garden after the loving hands of its owner were withdrawn1 and the little inclosure is now a mass of weeds4 ,celia ,laighton was brought to the ,isles of ,shoals as a child of five1 and lived with her parents in a little cottage on ,white ,island where her father was the keeper of the lighthouse4 ,she grew to womanhood in the companionship of the rocks1 the spray of the ocean1 the seaweeds1 the shells and the miniature wild life she discovered among them1 the tiny wild flowers which her sharp young eyes could find in the most secret crannies1 and the marigolds1 rich in color as barbaric gold1 which she early learned to cultivate in a scrap of garden literally not more than a yard square4 ,she shouted a friendly greeting to the noisy gulls and kittiwakes that fluttered overhead1 chased the sandpipers along the gravelly beach1 made friends and neighbors of the crabs1 the sea-spiders and land-spiders1 the sea-urchins1 the grasshoppers and crickets1 and set in motion armies of sandhoppers1 that jumped away like tiny kangaroos when she lifted the stranded seaweed4 ,and then the birds came to see her4 ,the swallows gathered fearlessly upon the window-sills and built their nests in the eaves1 seeming to know that the loving eyes watching their movements could mean no evil4 ,now and then a bobolink1 an oriole1 or a scarlet tanager would be seen4 ,the song sparrows came in flocks to be fed every morning4 ,with them1 at times1 came robins and blackbirds1 and occasionally yellowbirds and kingbirds4 ,sometimes1 in hazy weather1 they would fly against the glass of the lighthouse with fatal results4 ,many a ,may morning1 says ,mrs4 ,thaxter1 have ,i wandered about the rock at the foot of the tower mourning over a little apron brimful of sparrows1 swallows1 thrushes1 robins1 fire-winged blackbirds1 many-colored yellowbirds1 nuthatches1 catbirds1 even the purple finch and scarlet tanager and golden oriole1 and many more beside--enough to break the heart of a small child to think of4 ,it is no wonder that such a sympathetic soul could even summon the birds to keep her company--as she frequently did with the loons4 ,i learned to imitate their different cries2 they are wonderful6 ,at one time the loon language was so familiar that ,i could almost always summon a considerable flock by going down to the water and assuming the neighborly and conversational tone which they generally use3 after calling a few minutes1 first a far-off voice responded1 then other voices answered him1 and when this was kept up a while1 half a dozen birds would come sailing in4 ,it was the most delightful little party imaginable2 so comical were they that it was impossible not to laugh aloud4 ,to her love of birds and flowers1 ,mrs4 ,thaxter added a love of the sea itself1 finding delight equally in the sparkle of the calm waves of summer or the wild beating of the surf in winter4 ,she developed a marvelous ear for the music of the sea--something akin to that which enables ,john ,burroughs to name a bird correctly from its notes1 even when the songster is trying to imitate the call of another bird as the little impostors sometimes do4 ,she says3 ,who shall describe that wonderful voice of the sea among the rocks1 to me the most suggestive of all the sounds in nature8 ,each island1 every isolated rock1 has its own peculiar note1 and ears made delicate by listening1 in great and frequent peril1 can distinguish the bearings of each in a dense fog4 ,equally well did she know humanity4 ,the daily life of the fishermen1 the kind and quantity of the fish they caught1 the adventures they experienced1 the stories they told1 the hardships they endured1 the little domestic tragedies that now and then took place in their humble cottages1 the sufferings from illness or accident1 were all matters of everyday knowledge to her and enlisted her profound sympathy4 ,everything in nature appealed to her--the sea and sky1 the sunrise and the sunset1 the winds and storms1 the birds and flowers1 the butterflies and insects1 the sea-shells and kelp1 the fishes and all the lower forms of life--all were objects of careful observation in which she took delight2 and to these must be added a deep interest in humanity1 particularly of the kind which she met in fishermen's cottages1 where her good common sense and knowledge of simple remedies enabled her to render1 again and again1 a service in time of need when no other assistance could be obtained4 ,such was the unique character whose spirit dominates the islands even to-day1--a lover of nature worthy to stand with ,gilbert ,white1 ,thoreau1 or ,burroughs1 a poet1 an artist1 a friendly neighbor1 and a womanly woman4 ,it was a part of our good fortune to have the actual guidance in our tour of the islands of the only surviving brother of ,mrs4 ,thaxter1 ,mr4 ,oscar ,laighton4 ,in his little motor boat he took us to the tiny island known as ,londoners1 where for many winters he was the sole inhabitant4 ,although advancing years have now made it inexpedient for him to live in solitude1 the little cottage still remains ready for occupancy at any moment4 ,we stepped inside expecting to see1 in so desolate a spot1 only such rude furnishings as might be found in some mountain cabin or hunter's lodge4 ,to our astonishment we found it a veritable little bower1 a model of neatness and order1 and every room1 including the kitchen1 filled with well-chosen pictures and books1 as though some dainty fairy1 of literary tastes1 had planned it for her permanent abode4 ,among the highly prized ornaments were many pieces of china1 painted by ,mrs4 ,thaxter4 ,to our minds1 the most valuable article in the house--valuable because of the lesson it teaches--is a typewritten card1 hanging conspicuously over the kitchen stove1 with this cordial greeting to the uninvited guest3-- ,welcome to any one entering this house in shipwreck or trouble4 ,you will find matches in the box on the mantel4 ,the key to the wood-house is in this box4 ,start a fire in the stove and make yourself comfortable4 ,there are some cans of food on shelf in the pantry4 ,blankets will be found in the chamber on lower floor4 ,there is a dory ready to launch in the boat-house4 ,three times have shipwrecked men entered the house and taken advantage of this kindly welcome4 ,our next visit was to ,white ,island1 where1 after much difficulty in getting ashore1 we climbed to the top of the lighthouse4 ,this is a very different structure from the old wooden building of ,celia ,thaxter's childhood and only a small part of the original dwelling remains4 ,but the landing is very much as she describes it4 ,two long and very solid timbers about three feet apart are laid from the boat-house to low-water mark1 and between those timbers the boat's bow must be accurately steered4444 ,safely lodged in the slip1 as it is called1 she is drawn up into the boat-house by a capstan1 and fastened securely4 ,our boat was not drawn up1 and we had to walk up the steep1 slippery planks--with what success ,i shall not attempt to describe4 ,here1 at night1 the little ,celia used to sit1 with a lantern at her feet1 waiting in the darkness1 without fear1 for the arrival of her father's boat1 knowing that the little star was watched for1 and that the safety of the boat depended in a great measure upon it4 ,haley's ,island1 or ,smutty ,nose1 as it was long ago dubbed by the sailors because of its long projecting point of black rocks1 lies between ,appledore and ,star ,island4 ,of the two houses now remaining1 one is the original cottage of ,samuel ,haley1 an energetic and useful citizen1 who once owned the island4 ,nearby fourteen rude and neglected graves tell a pathetic tale4 ,the ,spanish ship ,sagunto was wrecked on ,smutty ,nose1 during a severe snowstorm on a ,january night4 ,the shipwrecked sailors saw the light in ,haley's cottage and crept toward it1 benumbed with cold and overcome with the horror and fatigue of their experience4 ,two reached the stone wall in front of the house1 but were too weak to climb over1 and their bodies were discovered the next morning1 frozen to the stones4 ,twelve other bodies were found scattered about the island4 ,how gladly the old man would have given these poor sailors the warmth and comfort of his home could he have known the tragedy that was happening while he slept soundly only a few yards away6 ,star ,island1 once the site of the village of ,gosport1 was in early days the most important of the group4 ,before the ,revolution a settlement of from three to six hundred people carried on the fisheries of the island1 catching yearly three or four thousand quintals of fish4 ,all this business is now a thing of the past4 ,the great shoals of mackerel and herring1 from which the islands took their name1 have disappeared--driven away or killed by the steam trawlers4 ,the old families departed long since1 and new ones have never come to take their places1 save a few lobster fishermen1 who with difficulty eke out a bare living4 ,a quaint little church of stone is perched upon the highest rocks of ,star ,island1 but ,i fear the attendance is small1 even in the summer time4 ,we found our way back to ,appledore1 content to spend the remaining days of our visit on this the largest and most inviting of the group4 ,a common island1 you will say2 ,but stay a moment2 only climb ,up to the highest rock of the isle1 ,stand there alone for a little while1 ,and with gentle approaches it grows sublime1 ,dilating slowly as you win ,a sense from the silence to take it in4 ,lowell was right4 ,the greatest charm of the islands is felt when you stand on the highest rock of the isle1 looking out upon the ever sparkling sea that stretches ,eastward as far as the eye can see-- ,still ,eastward1 eastward1 endlessly2 and feeling the restful quietude of the spot4 ,i fancy ,celia ,thaxter stood upon this rock when she sang-- ,o ,earth6 thy summer song of joy may soar ,ringing to heaven in triumph4 ,i but crave ,the sad1 caressing murmur of the wave ,that breaks in tender music on the shore4 ,illustration3 ,,appledore ,,viii ,a ,,day ,,with ,,john ,,burroughs ,,viii ,a ,,day ,,with ,,john ,,burroughs ,oh1 everybody here calls him ,uncle ,john1 was the quick reply to one of my queries of the man who drove me to the country house of ,john ,burroughs1 near ,roxbury1 ,new ,york4 ,he had been saying many pleasant things about the distinguished naturalist1 dwelling particularly upon his kind heart and genial nature4 ,i noticed that he never referred to him as ,dr4 ,burroughs1 nor ,mr4 ,burroughs1 nor even as ,burroughs1 but always as ,john or good old ,john1 or most often1 ,uncle ,john4 ,so ,i asked by what name the people called him1 and the answer seemed to me the most sincere compliment that could have been paid4 ,when a man has received many honorary degrees which the great universities have felt proud to confer1 it is an indication that those most competent to judge have appreciated his intellectual attainments or public services1 or both4 ,when the people of his native village bestow upon him the title of ,uncle1 it is an indication that the achievement of fame has not eclipsed the lovable qualities in his character nor dimmed the affectionate regard of the neighbors who have learned to know him as a man4 ,there is a certain friendliness implied in the title of ,uncle1 while it also suggests respect4 ,if you live in a small town you call everybody by his first name4 ,but one of your number becomes famous4 ,to call him ,john seems too familiar4 ,it implies that you do not properly appreciate his attainments4 ,to call him ,mister or ,doctor seems to make a stranger of him1 and you would not for the world admit that he is not still your friend4 ,uncle is often a happy compromise1 particularly if he still retains the neighborly qualities of his less distinguished years4 ,i do not know that the people of ,roxbury ever followed this line of reasoning1 but it does seem quite appropriate that they should call their most distinguished fellow citizen ,uncle ,john4 ,he was born on a farm near this little village in the ,catskills on the #c;d of ,april1 #ahcg1 in the very time of the return of the birds4 ,perhaps this is why he is so fond of them and particularly of ,robin ,redbreast1 that fine old-fashioned democrat1 who is one of his prime favorites4 ,he spent his boyhood here1 and now1 in the fullness of his years1 quietly returns each summer to the old familiar haunts1 living the same simple life as of yore1 except that the pen is now his tool instead of the farming implements4 ,the little red schoolhouse1 where ,burroughs and ,jay ,gould went to school together1 may still be seen in the valley1 standing in the open country with one of those rounded hilltops in the background which form the characteristic feature of the ,catskills4 ,near by is the ,gould birthplace1 now a comfortable-looking farmhouse1 glistening with a fresh coat of white paint4 ,take away the porch and the back extension1 and the top story and the paint1 said my driver1 and you will have the original 'birthplace4' ,he said that when he first began the livery business in ,roxbury many people came to see the birthplace of ,jay ,gould1 but no one mentioned ,burroughs4 ,now it is just the other way1 and the number of visitors increases yearly1 all anxious to see the home of the famous philosopher4 ,yet these two men1 one of whom seems to have belonged to the generations of the past while the other is a part of the ever-living present1 were boys together in the same schoolhouse more than sixty years ago4 ,as my conveyance drew up to the door1 ,mr4 ,burroughs came out with a hearty welcome4 ,he was alone1 for during the summer1 when he retires to this place for work1 he prefers to do his own housekeeping in his own way4 ,i am a good cook1 said he1 but a poor housekeeper4 ,i did not agree with the latter part of the statement1 for as ,i looked around ,i thought he had about all he needed and everything was clean4 ,moreover1 things were where he could get at them1 and from a man's point of view what better housekeeping could anybody want8 ,the house which he now occupies is a plain-looking farmhouse1 built in #ahfi by ,mr4 ,burroughs's elder brother4 ,its most distinctive feature is the rustic porch1 a recent addition1 which serves the purposes of living-room1 library1 and bedroom4 ,mr4 ,burroughs is a believer in fresh air and during the summer likes to sleep out of doors4 ,he has a rustic table1 covered with favorite books4 ,when he is not at work1 he likes to sit on the porch and enjoy what he calls the peace of the hills4 ,across the road there is a field1 broad and long and crossed by numerous stone walls4 ,in the distance are the hills of his well-loved ,catskills1 their smoothly undulating lines giving a sense of repose4 ,at the right of the house ,i noticed a small patch of green corn1 in front of which were some rambling cucumber vines4 ,in the rear and at the left were a few old apple trees1 and farther back1 capping the summit of a ridge1 a fine grove of trees1 standing in orderly array1 like an army ready for action4 ,mr4 ,burroughs has named the place1 in characteristic fashion1 ,woodchuck ,lodge1 because1 he said1 ,i can sit here and count the woodchucks1 sometimes eight or ten at a time4 ,illustration3 ,,john ,,burroughs ,,at ,,woodchuck ,,lodge ,not wishing to interfere with his plans1 ,i expressed the hope that ,i was not interrupting him1 when he quickly replied1 ,o1 my work for to-day is all done4 ,i rise at six and usually do all my writing before noon4 ,you are like ,sir ,walter ,scott1 then1 said ,i1 who always began early and1 as he said1 'broke the neck of the day's work' before the family came down to breakfast and was 'his own man before noon4' ,ah1 he was a wonderful man1 replied ,mr4 ,burroughs4 ,then1 after a pause and with a little sigh--,i wish ,i could invest these hills with romance as he did the hills of ,scotland4 ,but you have invested them with romance1 ,i said1 although of a different kind4 ,yes1 he replied1 with brightening eyes1 with the romance of humanity and of nature1 the only kind to which they are entitled4 ,i could not help thinking how wonderfully like ,wordsworth this seemed4 ,the romance of humanity and nature6 ,is it not this1 which1 since ,wordsworth's time1 has given a new charm to the hills and valleys of ,westmoreland and ,cumberland1 causing every visitor to seek the dwelling-places of the poet8 ,and are not those who spend their summers in the ,catskills finding a new delight in those beautiful mountains because of the spell which ,john ,burroughs has thrown upon them8 ,wordsworth wrote the history of his own mind and called it ,the ,prelude1 intending it to be but the introduction to a greater poem to be entitled ,the ,recluse1 which should be a broad presentation of his views on ,man1 ,nature1 and ,society4 ,the ,excursion was to be the second part1 but the third was never written4 ,he conceived that this great work would be like a ,gothic church1 the main body of which would be represented by ,the ,recluse1 while ,the ,prelude would be but the ante-chapel4 ,all his other poems1 when properly arranged1 would then be likened to the little cells1 oratories1 and sepulchral recesses1 ordinarily included in those edifices4 ,burroughs is far too modest to compare his writings to a cathedral1 but he has nevertheless1 like ,wordsworth1 written himself into nearly all of them4 ,following the ,english poet's simile in a modified form1 we may think of the product of his pen1 not as a cathedral1 but as a mansion of many rooms1 each furnished with beautiful simplicity and charming taste to represent some different phase of the author's mind1 and each equipped1 so to speak1 with a mirror1 possessing all the magic but without the unpleasant duty of the one in ,hawthorne's tale1 so arranged as to reflect the very soul of its builder with perfect fidelity4 ,so sincere is ,burroughs that you feel certain he is constantly revealing his true self4 ,therefore1 when he praises ,wordsworth as the ,english poet who has touched him more closely than any other1 you begin to realize the bond of sympathy4 ,when he says that ,wordsworth's poetry has the character of a message1 special and personal to a comparatively small circle of readers1 you know that he is one of the few who have taken the message to heart4 ,wordsworth's love of ,nature was of the same kind as the ,american poet's4 ,nature1 says ,burroughs1 is not to be praised or patronized4 ,you cannot go to her and describe her2 she must speak through your heart4 ,the woods and fields must melt into your mind1 dissolved by your love for them4 ,did they not melt into ,wordsworth's mind8 ,they colored all his thoughts2 the solitude of those green1 rocky ,westmoreland fells broods over every page4 ,he does not tell us how beautiful he finds ,nature1 and how much he enjoys her2 he makes us share his enjoyment4 ,substitute ,burroughs for ,wordsworth1 and ,catskill for ,westmoreland1 and you have in this passage a fine statement of the reason why ,john ,burroughs is winning the gratitude of more and more people every year4 ,wordsworth thought of ,nature as an all-pervading ,presence1 something mysterious and sublime1 a supreme ,being1-- ,the anchor of my purest thoughts1 the nurse1 ,the guide1 the guardian of my heart1 and soul ,of all my moral being4 ,burroughs does not rise to such ethereal heights1 but recognizes that the passion for ,nature is a form of1 or closely related to1 our religious instincts4 ,he lives closer to ,nature than ,wordsworth ever did4 ,his knowledge of her secrets is far deeper and more intimate4 ,he is a naturalist and scientist1 as well as a man of poetic temperament4 ,he has a trained eye that sees what others would miss4 ,there is a great deal of byplay going on in the life of ,nature about us1 he says1 a great deal of variation and outcropping of individual traits1 that we entirely miss unless we have our eyes and ears open4 ,probably no other man has a keener ear for the music of the birds4 ,he possesses that special gift of grace1 to use his own expression1 that enables one to hear the bird-songs4 ,not only can he distinguish the various species by their songs1 but he instantly recognizes a new note4 ,he once detected a robin1 singing with great spirit and accuracy the song of the brown thrasher1 and on another occasion followed a thrush for a long time because he recognized three or four notes of a popular air which the bird had probably learned from some whistling shepherd boy4 ,he loves to put words into the mouths of the birds to fit their songs and to fancy conversations between husband and wife upon their nest4 ,the sensitiveness of his ear for bird-music is wonderfully illustrated in his story of a new song which he heard on ,slide ,mountain in the ,catskills4 ,the moment ,i heard it1 ,i said1 ',there is a new bird1 a new thrush1' for the quality of all the thrush songs is the same4 ,a moment more and ,i knew it was ,bicknell's thrush4 ,the song is in a minor key1 finer1 more attenuated1 and more under the breath than that of any other thrush4 ,it seemed as if the bird was blowing into a delicate1 slender1 golden tube1 so fine and yet so flute-like and resonant the song appeared4 ,at times it was like a musical whisper of great sweetness and power4 ,i do not believe that ,wordsworth or any other poet1 however passionate his love of ,nature1 ever heard such a bird-song or could describe its qualities with so keen a discernment4 ,mr4 ,burroughs made me think of ,wordsworth again when1 as we sat looking over toward the ,catskills1 he explained his residence at ,woodchuck ,lodge by referring to his enjoyment of the open country and the peace and quiet of the scene4 ,for1 says ,wordsworth1-- ,what want we8 ,have we not perpetual streams1 ,warm woods1 and sunny hills1 and fresh green fields ,and mountains not less green1 and flocks and herds ,and thickets full of songsters1 and the voice ,of lordly birds1 an unexpected sound ,heard now and then from morn to latest eve1 ,admonishing the man who walks below ,of solitude and silence in the sky8 ,after an hour of pleasant conversation my host arose1 saying he would build his fire and we would have our dinner4 ,in due course we sat down to a repast that would have gladdened the heart of ,general ,grant himself4 ,the old veteran1 as many will remember1 after his return from a tour of triumph around the world1 in which he had been banqueted by kings and emperors1 dukes1 millionaires1 and public societies1 once slipped into a farmer's kitchen for a dinner of corned beef and cabbage1 declaring that he was glad to get something good to eat4 ,our meal did not consist of corned beef and cabbage1 but of corn cakes1 made of fresh green corn plucked not a couple of yards from the kitchen door and baked on a griddle by one of the foremost literary men of ,america4 ,there were other good things1 plenty of them1 but those delicious cakes with maple syrup of the genuine kind exactly touched the spot1 as old-fashioned folks used to say4 ,mine host must have noticed the unusual demands upon his crop of corn and marveled to see the rapid disappearance of the cakes1 but he did not seem displeased4 ,on the contrary1 as he brought in1 time after time1 a fresh pile of the steaming flapjacks1 his face beamed with the smile that betokens genuine hospitality4 ,our conversation at table was mostly on politics1 in which ,mr4 ,burroughs takes keen interest and upon which he is a man of decided convictions2 but this is a subject which he must be allowed to elucidate in his own way4 ,illustration3 ,,john ,,burroughs ,,at ,,work ,after dinner1 ,mr4 ,burroughs laughingly remarked that his study was the barn1 and we walked up the road to visit it4 ,i cannot bear to be cramped by the four walls of a room1 said he1 so ,i have moved out to the barn4 ,i enjoy it greatly4 ,the birds and the small animals come to see me every day and often sit and talk with me4 ,the woodchucks and chipmunks1 the blue jays and the hawks1 all look in at me while ,i am at work4 ,a red squirrel often squats on the stone wall and scolds me1 and the other day an old gray rabbit came4 ,he sat there twisting his nose like this 7here ,mr4 ,burroughs twisted his own nose in comical fashion71 and seemed to be saying saying-- ',by the pricking of my thumbs ,something wicked this way comes4' ,arrived at the barn1 ,mr4 ,burroughs seated himself at his desk4 ,with twinkling eyes he explained that it was an old hen-coop4 ,the inside was stuffed with hay to keep his feet warm1 and if the weather happens to be chilly1 he wears a blanket over his shoulders4 ,a market-basket contains his manuscript and a few books complete the equipment4 ,the desk is just inside the wide-open doors of the barn1 and he sits with his face to the light4 ,there is a broad outlook from a barn door1 said he1 smilingly4 ,beyond the low stone wall1 where his animal friends seat themselves for the daily conversations1 is an apple orchard1 and in the distance are the rounded summits of the ,catskills--a view as peaceful and refreshing as the one from the house4 ,here ,mr4 ,burroughs is never lonely4 ,one day a junco1 or slate-colored snowbird1 came on a tour of inspection4 ,she decided to build her nest in the hay4 ,she scorned all the materials so close at hand and brought everything from outside4 ,her instinct had taught her to find certain materials for a nest1 and she could not suddenly learn to make use of the convenient hay4 ,mr4 ,burroughs1 in speaking of this1 told me of a phoebe who built her nest over the window of his house4 ,she brought moss to conceal it1 but as the moss did not match the color of the house1 she succeeded only in making her nest more conspicuous4 ,since the evolution of the species1 phoebes have built their nests on the sides of cliffs1 using moss of the color of the rocks to conceal them4 ,the little bird who1 like the junco1 followed her instincts1 failed to note the difference between the house and the rocks4 ,in conversation of this kind1 ,mr4 ,burroughs turned the hours into minutes1 and ,i was surprised to look up and see the team approaching which was to carry me away4 ,after a reluctant farewell1 we drove over the brow of a hill and stopped for a few moments before the farmhouse which was the birthplace of ,john ,burroughs4 ,a comical incident took place4 ,it was raining hard when we arrived and we drove into the barn1 directly across the road from the house4 ,an old dog and a young one were here1 keeping themselves dry from the shower4 ,i set up my camera in the barn1 to take a picture of the house4 ,as ,i did so1 ,i noticed the old dog walk deliberately out in the rain and perch himself upon the doorstep1 where he turned around once or twice as if trying to strike the right attitude4 ,this point determined1 he stood perfectly still until ,i had taken the picture1 and when ,i started to put away the camera1 came trotting back to the barn4 ,i do not know what instinct1 if any1 prompted the dog to wish his picture to be taken1 but he was no more foolish than many people1--men1 women1 and children1--who have insisted upon getting into my pictures1 though they knew there was no possibility of their ever seeing them4 ,mr4 ,burrough's permanent home is at ,west ,park1 on the ,hudson ,river1 a few miles south of ,kingston4 ,here he has a farm mostly devoted to the cultivation of grapes4 ,he occupies a comfortable stone house1 pleasantly situated and nearly surrounded by trees of various kinds4 ,back of the house and near the river is the study or den1 a little rustic building on the slope of the hill1 where ,mr4 ,burroughs can write undisturbed by the business of the farm4 ,the walls are partly lined with bookshelves1 well crowded with favorite volumes4 ,near by is a small rustic summer house from which a delightful view of the river may be seen for miles to the north and to the south4 ,this is why the place is called ,riverby--simply by-the-river4 ,it has been the author's home for many years4 ,even the study1 however1 did not satisfy ,mr4 ,burroughs's longing for quiet1 and so he built another retreat about a mile and a half west of the village which he calls ,slabsides4 ,it is reached by walking up a hill and passing through a bit of hemlock woods which ,i found quite charming4 ,slabsides is a rustic house like many camps in the ,adirondacks4 ,it is roughly built1 but sufficiently comfortable1 and has a pleasant little porch1 at the entrance to which a climbing vine gives a picturesque effect which is greatly enhanced by a stone chimney1 now almost completely clothed with foliage4 ,it is in an out-of-the-way hollow of the woods where nobody would be likely to come except for the express purpose of visiting ,mr4 ,burroughs4 ,for several summers this was his favorite retreat4 ,he would walk over from his home at ,riverby and stay perhaps two or three weeks at a time1 doing his own cooking and housekeeping4 ,of late years1 however1 ,slabsides has been less frequently used1 ,woodchuck ,lodge having received the preference4 ,all of these abodes1 whether you see them within or without1 reveal the secret of ,john ,burroughs's strength4 ,they coincide with his personal appearance1 his dress1 his conversation1 his manner4 ,it is the strength of absolute simplicity4 ,everything is sincere4 ,nothing is superfluous4 ,there is no such thing as putting on airs4 ,fame and popularity have not spoiled him4 ,he is genuine4 ,you feel it when you see his workshops4 ,you know it when you meet the man4 ,mr4 ,charles ,wagner1 the apostle of the simple life1 has said1 ,all the strength of the world and all true joy1 everything that consoles1 that feeds hope1 or throws a ray of light along our dark paths1 everything that makes us see across our poor lives a splendid goal and a boundless future1 comes to us from people of simplicity1 those who have made another object of their desires than the passing satisfaction and vanity1 and have understood that the art of living is to know how to give one's life4 ,john ,burroughs is one of these people of simplicity1 and his contribution to our happiness lies in his rare power of bringing to his reader something of his own enjoyment of ,nature--an enjoyment which he has been able to obtain only through the living of a simple life4 ,he is the complete embodiment of ,emerson's forest seer3-- ,many haps fall in the field ,seldom seen by wishful eyes2 ,but all her shows did ,nature yield1 ,to please and win this pilgrim wise4 ,he saw the partridge drum in the woods2 ,he heard the woodcock's evening hymn2 ,he found the tawny thrushes' broods2 ,and the shy hawk did wait for him2 ,what others did at distance hear1 ,and guessed within the thicket's gloom1 ,was shown to this philosopher ,and at his bidding seemed to come4 ,,ix ,,glimpses ,,of ,,the ,,yellowstone ,,ix ,,glimpses ,,of ,,the ,,yellowstone ,the ,yellowstone ,national ,park is ,nature's jewel casket1 in which she has kept her choicest gems for countless generations4 ,securely sheltered by ranges of rugged mountains they have long been safe from human depredations4 ,the red man doubtless knew of them1 but superstition came to the aid of ,nature and held him awe-struck at a safe distance4 ,the first white man who came within sight of these wonders a century ago could find no one to believe his tales1 and for a generation or two the region of hot springs and boiling geysers which he described was sneeringly termed ,colter's ,hell4 ,only within the last half-century have the generality of mankind been permitted to view these precious jewels1 and even then jealous ,nature1 it would seem1 did not consent to reveal her treasures until fully assured that they would have the protection of no less powerful a guardianship than that of the ,national ,government4 ,on the #ahth of ,september1 #ahgj1 a party of explorers1 headed by ,general ,henry ,d4 ,washburn1 then ,surveyor-,general of ,montana1 emerged from the forest into an open plain and suddenly found themselves not one hundred yards away from a huge column of boiling water1 from which great rolling clouds of snow-white vapor rose high into the air against the blue sky4 ,it was ,old ,faithful in action4 ,then and there they resolved that this whole region of wonders should be made into a public park for the benefit of all the people1 and renouncing any thought of securing the lands for personal gain1 these broad-minded men used their influence to have the ,national ,congress assume the permanent guardianship of the place4 ,and now that protection is fully assured these jewels of ,nature may be seen by you and me4 ,those who have traveled much will tell you that ,nature is prodigal of her riches1 and1 indeed1 this would seem to be true to one who has spent a summer among the snow-clad peaks of the ,alps1 or dreamed away the days amid the blue lakes of northern ,italy1 or wandered about in the green forests of the ,adirondacks1 where every towering spruce1 every fragrant balsam1 every dainty wild flower and every mossy log is a thing of beauty4 ,but these are ,nature's full-dress garments1 just as the broad-spreading wheatfields of the ,dakotas are her work-a-day clothes4 ,her jewels are safely locked up in places more difficult of access1 where they may be seen by only a favored few2 and one of these safe-deposit boxes1 so to speak1 is the ,yellowstone ,national ,park4 ,illustration3 ,,hymen ,,terrace ,the first collection of these natural gems is at ,mammoth ,hot ,springs1 and here my camera1 as if by instinct1 led me quickly to the daintiest in form and most delicate in colorings of them all1 a beautiful formation known as ,hymen ,terrace4 ,a series of steps1 covering a circular area of perhaps one hundred feet in diameter1 has been formed by the overflow of a hot spring4 ,the terraces consist of a series of semicircular and irregular curves or scallops1 like a combination of hundreds of richly carved pulpits1 wrought in a soft1 white substance resembling coral4 ,little pools of glistening water reflect the sunlight from the tops of the steps1 while a gently flowing stream spreads imperceptibly over about one half the surface1 sprinkling it with millions of diamonds as the altar of ,hymen ought to be4 ,the pools are greens and blues of many shades1 varying with the depth of the water4 ,the sides of the steps are pure white in the places where the water has ceased to flow1 but beneath the thin stream they range in color from a rich cream to a deep brown1 with all the intermediate shades harmoniously blended4 ,from the highest pools1 and especially from the largest one at the very summit of the mound1 rise filmy veils of steam1 softening the exquisite tints into a rich harmony of color against the azure of the sky4 ,the ,terrace of ,hymen is the most exquisite of the formations1 but there are others much larger and more magnificent4 ,minerva ,terrace gave me a foreground for a charming picture4 ,beyond its richly colored steps and sparkling pools were the splendid summits of the ,gallatin ,range towering more than ten thousand feet above the level of the sea and seeming1 in the clear mountain air1 to be much nearer than they really are4 ,hovering above their peaks were piles upon piles of foamy clouds1 through which could be seen a background of the bluest of skies1 while down below were the gray stone buildings with their bright red roofs that form the headquarters of the army guarding the park4 ,jupiter ,terrace1 the most imposing of all these formations1 extends a quarter of a mile along the edge of a brilliantly colored mound1 rising about three hundred feet above the plain upon which ,fort ,yellowstone is built4 ,pulpit ,terrace1 on its eastern slope1 reproduces upon a larger scale the rich carvings and exquisite tints of ,hymen1 though without the symmetry of structure4 ,the springs at its summit are among the most strikingly beautiful of these unique formations which ,i like to call the jewels of ,nature4 ,two large pools of steaming water lie side by side1 apparently identical in structure1 and separated only by a narrow ridge of lime4 ,the one on the left is a clear turquoise blue1 while its neighbor is distinctly ,nile green4 ,surrounding these springs are several smaller pools1 one a rich orange color1 another light brown1 and a third brown of a much darker hue4 ,the edges of all are tinted in yellow1 brown1 and gold of varied shades4 ,the pools are apparently all a part of the same spring or group of springs1 and subject to the same conditions of light2 yet ,i noticed at least five distinct colors in as many pools4 ,the water itself is colorless and the different hues must be imparted by the colorings of the lime deposits1 influenced by the varying depth and temperature of the water4 ,what is known as the formation of the ,mammoth ,hot ,springs covers perhaps fifty or sixty acres on the slope of ,terrace ,mountain4 ,it is a heavy deposit of lime or travertine1 essentially the same as the stalagmites and stalactites which one sees in certain caverns4 ,when dry it is white and soft like chalk4 ,the colorings of the terraces are of vegetable origin1 caused by a thin1 velvety growth1 botanically classed as algae1 which flourishes only in warm water4 ,the heat of rocks far beneath the surface warms the water of the springs1 which1 passing through a bed of limestone1 brings to the surface a deposit of pure calcium carbonate4 ,wherever the flow of water remains warm the algae appear and tint the growing formation with as many shades of brown as there are varying temperatures of the water4 ,when the water is diverted1 as is likely to happen from one season to the next1 the algae die and the surfaces become a chalky white4 ,leaving the ,hot ,springs1 the road passes through the ,golden ,gate1 where1 on one side1 a perpendicular wall of rock rises to a height of two hundred feet or more1 and on the other are the wooded slopes and rocky summit of ,bunsen ,peak--a beautiful canon1 where the view suggests the greater glories of ,swiss mountain scenery1 but for that very reason is not to be mentioned here among the rare gems of the park4 ,nor shall ,i include the ,hoodoos1 which1 though distinctly unusual1 are far from beautiful4 ,an area of many acres is covered with huge fragments of massive rocks1 piled in disorderly confusion1 as though some ,cyclops1 in a fit of ugly temper1 had torn away the whole side of a mountain and scattered the pieces4 ,through these rocks project the whitened trunks of thousands of dead trees1--a sort of ghostly nightmare through which we were glad to pass as quickly as possible4 ,illustration3 ,,pulpit ,,terrace ,we stopped for lunch at the ,norris ,geyser ,basin1 and here saw some miniature geysers1 as a kind of preparation for the greater ones beyond4 ,the ,constant1 true to its name1 throws up a pretty little white fountain so often that it seems to prepare for a new eruption almost before the previous one has subsided4 ,the ,minute ,man is always on duty and pops up his little spray of hot water1 fifteen feet high1 every minute or two4 ,the ,monarch1 near by1 is much larger1 but not at all pretty4 ,it throws up a stream of black1 muddy water seventy-five to one hundred feet high about every forty minutes4 ,some of these geysers are steady old fellows who have found their appointed task in life and have settled down to perform it with commendable regularity4 ,the ,norris ,basin1 however1 seems to be the favorite playground of the youngsters1--a frisky lot of geysers of no fixed habits and a playful disposition to burst out in unexpected places4 ,such is the ,new ,crater1 which asserted itself with a great commotion in #ahia1 bursting forth with the violence of an earthquake4 ,another erratic young fellow is the ,fountain ,geyser1 in the ,lower ,basin4 ,in ,july1 #ahii1 he was seized with a fit of the sulks and for three months refused to play at all4 ,in ,october he decided to resume operations and behaved quite well for ten years1 when he suddenly took a notion to abandon his crater for the apartments of his neighbor next door4 ,apparently the furnishings of his new abode did not suit him1 for he began at once to throw them out with great violence1 hurling huge masses of rock with volcanic force to a height of two hundred feet4 ,amid terrific rumblings and the hissing of escaping steam1 this angry outburst continued for several days1 and did not wholly cease for nearly two months4 ,since then the ,fountain has settled down to the ordinary daily occupation of a self-respecting geyser4 ,when ,i saw him he was as calm and serene as a summer's day1 and to all appearances had never been guilty of mischief1 nor even exhibited a ruffled temper in all his life4 ,indeed1 had ,i not known his history 7inconceivable in one of the gentler sex71 ,i should have personified this geyser in the feminine gender1 because of his exquisite beauty4 ,a great jewel seemed to be set into the surface of the earth4 ,its smooth upper face1 about thirty feet in diameter1 was level with the ground upon which we stood4 ,its color1 at first glance1 seemed to be a rich turquoise blue1 but as we looked into the clear1 transparent depths there seemed to be a hundred other shades of blue1 all blending harmoniously4 ,in the farthest corner1 beneath a shelf or mound of geyserite1 appeared the opening of a fathomless cave4 ,all around its edges1 and continuing in wavy lines of delicate tracery around the bottom of the bowl1 were marvelous patterns of exquisite lacework1 every angle seeming to catch and throw back its own particular ray of bluish light4 ,there was not a ripple to disturb the surface1 not a bubble to foretell the violent eruption which a few hours would bring forth1 and only a thin film of vapor to suggest faintly the extraordinary character of this beautiful pool4 ,only a few hundred feet away is another curious phenomenon in this region of surprises4 ,it is a cauldron of boiling mud1 measuring forty or fifty feet in diameter1 known as the ,mammoth ,paint ,pots1 where a mass of clay is kept in a state of continuous commotion4 ,millions of bubbles rise to the surface and explode1 sputtering like a thick mess of porridge kept at the boiling point4 ,the color is a creamy white where the ebullition is greatest1 but thick masses thrown up around the edges and allowed to cool have assumed a delicate shade of pink4 ,a smaller but more beautiful formation of the same kind is seen near the ,thumb ,station on the ,yellowstone ,lake4 ,as we proceeded1 ,nature's jewels seemed to increase in number and magnificence4 ,turquoise ,spring1 a sheet of water one hundred feet wide1 has all the beauty of the ,fountain ,geyser in the latter's quiet state1 with an added reputation for tranquillity1 for it is not a geyser at all4 ,near by is ,prismatic ,lake1 about four hundred feet long and two hundred and fifty feet wide4 ,its center is a very deep blue1 changing to green of varying shades1 and finally1 in the shallowest parts1 to yellow1 orange1 and brown4 ,it is a great spring from the center of which the water flows in delicate1 wavy ringlets4 ,the mineral deposits have formed countless scallops1 like miniature terraces1 a few inches high1 sculpturing a wonderful pattern in hues of reds1 purples1 and browns1 delicately imposed upon a background of gray4 ,a thin veil of rising steam was carried away by the wind just enough to reveal the wonderful colorings to our eyes1 while the sun added to the bewildering beauty of the spectacle by changing the vapor into a million prisms reflecting all the colors of the rainbow4 ,in this connection ,i must not fail to mention the ,morning-,glory ,spring1 where the action of a geyser has carved out a deep bowl1 twenty feet in diameter4 ,it would seem as though ,nature had sunk a gigantic morning-glory into the earth1 leaving its rim flush with the surface and yet retaining1 clearly visible beneath the smooth surface of the transparent water1 all the delicate shades of the original flower4 ,the ,sapphire ,spring1 not far away1 is another of the little gems of the region4 ,it is a small1 pulsating spring1 and the jewel itself is not less remarkable than its extraordinary setting1 resembling coral4 ,the constant flow of the waters from a center to all directions has caused the formation of a series of irregular concentric circles1 broken into little knobs or mounds1 from which the vicinity takes its name of the ,biscuit ,basin4 ,as we approached the ,upper ,geyser ,region1 the number and variety of these highly colored pools1 hot springs1 geysers1 and strange formations increased steadily1 until at last we stood in the presence of ,old ,faithful1 the crown jewel of the collection1 the ,koh-i-noor of ,nature's casket4 ,a strong breeze from the north was blowing as ,i stood before the geyser for the first time1 and for that reason1 ,i decided to place my camera directly to the west4 ,a small cloud of steam was rising1 which seemed gradually to increase in volume4 ,then1 as ,i watched1 a small spray of water would shoot up occasionally above the rim of the crater4 ,then a puff of steam and another spray1 breaking into globules as the wind carried it away4 ,then silence4 ,suddenly a large1 full stream shot up a distance of twenty or thirty feet and fell back again1 and the crater remained quiet for at least five minutes4 ,is that all8 ,i thought4 ,does its boasted regularity only mean that while it plays once in sixty-five minutes1 yet the height of some of the eruptions may be only trifling8 ,i began to feel doubtful1 not to say disappointed4 ,the column of steam seemed smaller1 and ,i wondered if ,i should have to wait another hour for a real eruption1 when suddenly the lazily drifting cloud became a giant1 like the genie in the ,arabian ,nights4 ,up into the air shot a huge column of water1 followed instantly by another still higher1 then another1 until in a moment or two there towered above the earth a gigantic column of boiling water one hundred and fifty feet high4 ,straight as a flagstaff it seemed on the left1 while to the right rolled the waving folds of a huge white banner1 obscuring the blue of the sky in one great mass of snowy vapor4 ,for several minutes the puffs of steam rolled up1 and the fountain continued to play4 ,then1 little by little1 its form grew less1 its force weakened1 and at last there was only the little lazy pillar of vapor outlined against the distant hills4 ,again and again during the day ,i watched it with an ever-increasing sense of fascination1 which reached its climax in the evening1 when the eruption was lighted by the powerful search-light on the hotel4 ,as the great clouds of steam rolled up1 the strong light seemed to impart a vast variety of colors1 ranging from rich cream to yellow1 orange1 brown1 and purple1 blended harmoniously but ever changing like the rich silk robes of some ,oriental potentate1--a spectacle of bewildering beauty1 defying the power of pen to describe or brush to paint4 ,illustration3 ,,old ,,faithful ,there are other geysers greater than ,old ,faithful4 ,the ,giant plays to a height of two hundred and fifty feet1 and the ,grand and ,beehive nearly as high2 the ,grotto has a more fantastic crater2 the ,castle has the largest cone1 and with its beautifully colored ,castle ,well is more unique2 and the ,riverside1 which plays a stream diagonally across the ,firehole ,river1 makes a more striking scenic display4 ,but all of these play at irregular intervals and with far less frequency1 varying from a few hours to ten or twelve days between eruptions4 ,on the other hand1 the regularity with which ,old ,faithful sends his straight1 magnificent column to the skies is fascinating beyond description4 ,every sixty-five or seventy minutes1 never varying more than five minutes1 day and night1 in all seasons and every kind of weather1 ,old ,faithful has steadily performed his task since first discovered in #ahgj until the present time1 and no man can tell for how many centuries before4 ,o6 ,fountain of the ,wilderness6 ,eternal ,mystery6 ,whence came thy wondrous power8 ,for ages1--long before the eye of ,man ,found access to thy charm1 thou'st played ,thy stream of marvelous beauty4 ,in midnight dark no less than glorious day1 ,in wintry storms as well as summer's calm1 ,oblivious to the praise of men1 ,each hour to ,heaven thou hast raised ,thine offering pure1 of dazzling white4 ,thy ,maker's eye alone has seen ,the tribute of thy faithfulness1 ,and thou hast been content to play thy part ,in ,nature's solitude4 ,not alone as the guardian of ,nature's jewels is the ,yellowstone ,national ,park remarkable4 ,even if the wonderful geysers1 hot springs1 and many-colored pools were taken away1--locked up in a strong box and hidden from sight as jewels often are1--the more familiar phases of natural scenery1 such as mountains1 rivers1 lakes1 and waterfalls would make it one of the wonder-places of ,america4 ,on the eastern boundary is the great ,absaroka ,range1 with peaks rising over #aj1jjj feet4 ,in the northwest corner is the ,gallatin ,range1 dominated by the ,electric ,peak1 #aa1aee feet high1 covered with snow1 and so charged with electricity as to make the surveyor's transit almost useless4 ,the ,yellowstone and ,gardiner ,rivers1 which join at the northern boundary1 are separated within the park by a range of mountains of which the highest is ,mount ,washburne 7#aj1cej feet71 named for the leader of the expedition of #ahgj4 ,farther south1 and midway between the ,upper ,geyser ,basin and the ,yellowstone ,lake1 is the ,continental ,divide4 ,the road passes between two small lakes1 one of which discharges its waters into the ,atlantic ,ocean by way of the ,yellowstone1 the ,missouri1 and the ,gulf of ,mexico1 while the other flows into the ,pacific through ,snake ,river and the ,columbia4 ,from a point a few miles to the east ,lake ,shoshone may be seen far below1 and seeming to tower directly above it1 but really fifty miles away1 just beyond the southern boundary of the park1 are the three sentinels of the ,teton ,range1 the highest #ac1gda feet above the sea4 ,the entire park is in the heart of the ,rocky ,mountains1 its lowest level being over #fjjj feet elevation4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,grotto ,,geyser ,the park is full of lakes and streams varying in size from the hundreds of little pools and brooks1 hidden away among the rocks1 to the great ,yellowstone ,lake1 twenty miles in width1 and the picturesque river of the same name4 ,here and there are beautiful cascades which one would go miles to see anywhere else1 but the surfeited travelers give them only a careless glance as the stages pass without stopping4 ,the ,kepler ,cascades tumble over the rocks in a series of falls of more than a hundred feet1 making a charming veil of white lace1 against a dark background of rocks and pines4 ,the ,gibbon ,falls1 eighty feet high1 are nearly as attractive1 while the little ,rustic ,falls1 of sixty feet1 in ,golden ,gate ,canon1 are really quite delightful4 ,these1 and many others1 are passed in comparative indifference1 for the traveler has already seen many wonderful sights and knows that greater ones are yet in store4 ,his anticipations are realized with good measure running over1 when at last he catches his first glimpse of the great ,canon of the ,yellowstone4 ,with us this glimpse came at the ,upper ,falls1 where the ,yellowstone ,river suddenly drops one hundred and twelve feet1 suggesting the ,american ,fall at ,niagara1 though the volume of water is not so great4 ,it is more beautiful1 however1 because of the wildness of the scenery4 ,lower down1 the river takes another drop1 falling to the very bottom of the canon4 ,here the cataract is more than twice the height of ,niagara1 and though lacking the width of the stream that makes the latter so impressive1 is in every respect far more beautiful4 ,one must stand near the edge of the rocks at ,inspiration ,point to grasp the full majesty of the scene4 ,we are now three miles below the ,great ,falls4 ,the ,upper ,fall1 which at close range is a great1 beautiful white sheet of water1 rolling with imperial force over a rocky precipice1 seems only a trifling detail in the vast picture--a mere touch of dazzling white where all else is in color4 ,at the bottom is the blue of the river1 broken here and there into foamy white waves4 ,pines and mosses contribute touches of green4 ,the rocky cliffs are yellow and gold1 deepening into orange4 ,in the distance a great rock of crimson stands like a fortress1 with arched doorway1 through which is seen a vista of green fields4 ,but this is an optical illusion1 as a strong glass will reveal4 ,the doorway is only a pointed fir1 which the distance has softened into the shadow of a pointed arch4 ,mediaeval castles rear their buttressed fronts on inaccessible slopes4 ,cathedral spires1 as majestic as those of ,cologne1 and numerous as the minarets of ,milan1 stand out in bold relief4 ,away down below is an eagle's nest1 into which we can look and see the birds1 yet it is perched upon a pinnacle so high that if one were to stand at the level of the river and look up1 it would tower above him higher than the tallest building in the world4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,canon ,,of ,,the ,,yellowstone ,,river ,not a sign of the handiwork of man appears in any direction4 ,the gorgeous spectacle1 reveling in all the hues of the rainbow1 is just as ,nature made it--let the geologist say1 if he can1 how many thousands of years ago4 ,and above all this splendid panorama1 unequaled save by the glory of the sunset sky1 is that same rich blue which ,nature employs to add the final touch of loveliness to all her greatest works1 and yet reserves enough to beautify the more familiar scenes at home4 ,x ,,the ,,grand ,,canon ,,of ,,arizona ,x ,,the ,,grand ,,canon ,,of ,,arizona ,i arrived at the canon on a cold night in ,january1 #aijc1 alone4 ,there were few guests at the hotel1 which was a capacious log cabin1 with long1 single-storied frame structures projecting in various directions1 to serve the purposes of sleeping-rooms and kitchens4 ,it had a primitive look1 far more in keeping with the solitude of its surroundings than the present comfortable hotel4 ,an old guide 7,i hoped he might be ,john ,hance7 sat by the fire talking with a group of loungers1 and ,i sauntered near enough to hear the conversation1 expecting to listen to some good tale of the canon4 ,but the talk was commonplace4 ,presently an ,indian came in accompanied by a young squaw4 ,he was said to be a hundred years old--a fact no doubt easily proved by the layers of dirt on his face and hands1 if one could count them like the rings on a tree4 ,he proved to be only a lazy old beggar and quite unromantic4 ,the hotel management did not provide ,indian dances and other forms of amusement then as now and ,i was obliged to spend a dull evening4 ,i read the guidebooks and reached the conclusion that the canon was not worth visiting if one did not go down the trail to the bottom of it4 ,so ,i inquired at the desk when the party would start in the morning1 and was dismayed to be told that there would be none unless somebody wanted to go4 ,i was told to put my name on the list and no doubt others would see it and we might get up a party4 ,i therefore boldly signed my name at the top of a white sheet of paper1 feeling much like a decoy1 and awaited results4 ,again and again during the lonesome evening ,i sauntered over to the desk1 but not one of the few guests had shown the slightest interest4 ,at ten o'clock my autograph still headed an invisible list1 as lonely as the man for whom it stood1 and ,i went to bed1 vowing to myself that if ,i could get only one companion1 besides the guide1 ,i would go down the trail4 ,it was still dark when ,i heard the strident voice of a ,japanese porter calling through the corridor1 ,brek-foos6 ,brek-foos6 and ,i rose quickly4 ,the dawn was just breaking as ,i stepped out into the chill air and walked to the edge of the great chasm4 ,before me rolled a sea of vapor4 ,it was as though a massive curtain of clouds had been let down from the sky to protect the canon in the night4 ,the spectacle was not to be exhibited until the proper hour arrived4 ,the great white ocean stretched away to the north as far as the eye could reach1 filling every nook and corner of the vast depression4 ,in the east the rosy tints of the morning brightened the sky4 ,suddenly a ray of light illumined what appeared to be a rock1 far out in the filmy ocean1 and the black mass blazed with the ruddy hue4 ,the tip of another great butte suddenly projected itself and caught another ray of light4 ,one by one the rugged domes of the great rock temples of ,brahma and ,buddha and ,zoroaster and ,isis1 as they are called1 peeped into view as the mists gradually disappeared1 catching the morning sunbeams at a thousand different angles1 and throwing back a kaleidoscope of purples1 blues1 reds1 and yellows1 until at last the whole superb canon was revealed in a burst of color1 over which the amethyst reigned supreme4 ,how long ,i should have stood enraptured before this scene of superlative grandeur1 so marvelously unfolded to the sight1 ,i do not know1 had not the more prosaic call of ,brek-foos6 long since forgotten1 again resounded to bring me back to human levels4 ,i returned to the hotel and entered the breakfast-room1 with an appetite well sharpened by the crisp wintry air1 first taking a furtive glance at the list1 where my name still presided in solitary dignity4 ,it was still early and ,i was seated at the head of a long table1 where there were as yet only two or three other guests4 ,i felt sure that the day would be a busy one1 particularly if ,i should find that one companion with whom ,i was determined to attempt the trail4 ,it would be well to lay in a good supply of fuel1 and accordingly ,i asked the waiter to get me a good beefsteak and a cup of coffee4 ,he suggested griddle cakes in addition1 as appropriate for a cold morning1 and ,i assented4 ,then suddenly remembering that country hotels have a way of serving microscopic portions in what a distinguished author has described as bird bathtubs1 ,i called over my shoulder to bring me some ham and eggs also4 ,george disappeared with a grin4 ,when he returned1 holding aloft a huge and well-loaded tray1 that darky's face was a vision of delight4 ,his eyes sparkled and his thick lips had expanded into an upturned crescent1 wherein two rows of gleaming ivory stood in military array1 every one determined to be seen4 ,he laid before me a porter-house steak1 large enough for my entire family1 an immense elliptical piece of ham sliced from rim to rim off the thigh of a huge porker1 three fried eggs1 a small mountain of buckwheat cakes1 and a pot of coffee1 remarking1 as he made room for the generous repast1 ,ah reckon you-all's powerful hungry dis mawnin'1 boss6 ,by this time the table was well filled4 ,there is no formality at such places and we were soon chatting together like old acquaintances4 ,i resolved to open up the subject of the trail and asked my neighbor at the right whether he intended to make the trip4 ,he said ,no1 rather indifferently1 ,i thought1 and ,i expressed my surprise4 ,i had read the guidebooks to good purpose and was soon expatiating on the wonders of the trail1 declaring that ,i could not understand why people should come from all parts of the world to see the canon and miss the finest sight of all1 the view from below4 7,somebody said that in the guidebook47 ,they were all listening now4 ,some one asked if it was not dangerous4 ,not in the least1 ,i replied2 no lives have ever been lost and there has never been an accident 7the guidebook said that1 too7--and1 besides1 ,i continued1 knowingly1 it's lots of fun4 ,just here a maiden lady of uncertain age1 cadaverous cheeks1 and a high1 squeaky voice1 piped out1--,i believe ,i'll go4 ,i remembered my vow about the one companion and suddenly felt a strange1 sickly feeling of irresolution4 ,but it was only for a moment4 ,a little girl of twelve was tugging at her father's coat-tails--,papa1 can't ,i go8 ,papa conferred with ,mamma1 who agreed that ,bessie might go if ,papa went too4 ,i was making progress4 ,a masculine voice from the other end of the table then broke in with a few more questions1 and its owner1 a man from ,minnesota1 whom we afterward called the ,major1 was the next recruit4 ,i had suddenly gained an unwonted influence4 ,the guests were evidently inspired with a feeling of respect for a man who would order such a regal breakfast6 ,after the meal was over1 a lady approached and prefacing her request with the flattering remark that ,i looked respectable1 said that her daughter1 a young lady of twenty1 was anxious to go down the trail2 she would consent if ,i would agree to see that no harm befell her4 ,i thought ,i might as well be a chaperon as a cicerone1 since ,i had had no experience as either1 and promptly assured the mother of my willingness to accept the charge4 ,it was a vain promise4 ,the young lady was the first to mount her mule and fell into line behind the guide2 before ,i could secure my animal others had taken their places and ,i found myself three mules astern1 with no possibility of passing to the front or of exchanging a word with my charge4 ,i fancied a slight gleam of mischievous triumph in her eyes as she looked back1 seeming to say1 ,i can take care of myself1 quite well1 thank you1 ,mr4 ,chaperon6 ,after a slight delay1 ,i secured my mule and taking the bridle firmly in hand said1 ,get up1 ,sam4 ,the animal deliberately turned his head and looked back at me with a sardonic smile in his mulish eye that said clearly--,you imagine that you are guiding me1 don't you8 ,just wait and see6 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,trail1 ,,grand ,,canon ,there were seven of us1 including the guide1 as we started down the long and crooked path4 ,the guide rode a white horse1 but the rest of the party were mounted1 like myself1 on big1 sturdy mules--none of your little1 lazy burros1 as most people imagine4 ,at first the trail seemed to descend at a frightful angle1 and the path seemed--oh1 so narrow6 ,i could put out my left hand against a perpendicular wall of rock and look down on the right into what seemed to be the bottomless pit4 ,i noticed that the trail was covered with snow and ice4 ,suppose any of the mules should slip8 ,had we not embarked upon a foolhardy undertaking8 ,and if there should be an accident1 all the blame would justly fall upon my head4 ,how silly of me to be so anxious to go6 ,and how reckless to urge all these other poor innocents into such a trap6 ,fortunately such notions lasted only a few minutes4 ,the mules were sharp-shod and did not slip4 ,they went down every day1 nearly1 and knew their business4 ,they were born in the canon4 ,they would have been terribly frightened in ,broadway1 but here they were at home and followed the familiar path with a firm tread4 ,i threw the bridle over the pommel of the saddle and gave ,sam my implicit trust4 ,he knew a great deal more about the job than ,i did4 ,from that moment ,i had no further thought of danger4 ,i came to have a high respect for that mule4 ,most people respect a mule only because of the possibility that his hind legs may suddenly fly out at a tangent and hit something4 ,i respected ,sam because ,i knew his legs would do nothing of the kind4 ,he needed all of them under him and he knew it4 ,he never swerved a hair's breadth nearer the outer edge of the path than was absolutely necessary4 ,the trail descends in a series of zigzag lines and sharp angles like the teeth of a saw4 ,sam would march straight down to one of these angles2 then1 with the precipice yawning thousands of feet below1 he would slowly squirm around until his head was pointed down the next segment and then with great deliberation resume his journey4 ,the guide thought him too deliberate and once came back to give me a small willow switch4 ,i was riding on a narrow shelf of rock1 less than a yard wide1 where ,i could look down into a chasm thousands of feet deep4 ,that mule is too slow1 he said2 you must whip him up4 ,i took the switch and thanked him4 ,but ,i wouldn't have used it then for a million dollars6 ,it was a glorious ride4 ,the trail itself was the only sign of human handiwork4 ,everything else in sight was as ,nature made it--a wild1 untouched ruggedness near at hand and a softer1 gentler aspect in the distance1 where the exposed strata of all the geologic ages caught the sunshine at millions of angles1 each reflecting its own particular hue and all blending together in a rich harmony of color2 where the bright blue sky and the fleecy clouds came down to join their earthly brethren in a revelry of rainbow tints1 and the sun overhead1 despite the snow about the rim1 was smiling his happiest summer benison upon the deep valley4 ,we came1 presently1 to a place called ,jacob's ,ladder1 where the path ceased to be an inclined plane and became a series of huge steps1 each about as high as an ordinary table4 ,here we all dismounted1 for the mules could not safely descend with such burdens4 ,it was comical to watch them4 ,my ,sam would stand on each step for several minutes1 gazing about as though enjoying the scenery4 ,then1 as if struck by a sudden notion1 he would drop his fore legs to the next step1 and with hind legs still at the higher elevation1 pause in further contemplation4 ,at length it would occur to this deliberate animal that his hind legs1 after all1 really belonged on the same level with the other two1 and he would suddenly drop them down and again become rapt in thought4 ,this performance was repeated on every step for the entire descent of more than one hundred feet4 ,after traveling about three hours1 during which we had descended three thousand feet below the rim1 we came to ,indian ,garden1 where an ,indian family once found a fertile spot on which they could practice farming in their own crude way4 ,here we came to some tents belonging to a camping-party1 and ,i found the solution of a problem that had puzzled me earlier in the day4 ,standing on the rim and looking across the canon ,i had seen what appeared to be a newspaper lying on the grass4 ,i knew it must be three or four miles from where ,i stood1 and that a newspaper would be invisible at that distance1 yet ,i could not imagine how any natural object could appear white and rectangular so far away4 ,presently ,i saw some tiny objects moving slowly like a string of black ants1 and realized that these must be some early trail party4 ,we met them at ,indian ,garden4 ,they proved to be prospectors and the newspaper was in reality the group of tents4 ,we had now left the steep zigzag path1 and riding straight forward over a great plateau1 we came to the brink of some granite cliffs1 where we could at last see the ,colorado ,river1 thundering through the gorge thirteen hundred feet below4 ,and what a river it is6 ,from the rim we could only catch an occasional glimpse1 looking like a narrow silver ribbon1 threading in and out among a multitude of strangely fashioned domes and turrets4 ,here we saw something of its true character1 though still too far away to feel its real power--a boiling1 turbulent1 angry1 and useless stream dashing wildly through a barren valley of rock and sand1 its waters capable of generating millions of horse-power1 but too inaccessible to be harnessed1 and its surface violently resisting the slightest attempt at navigation2 a veritable anarchist of a river6 ,for more than a thousand miles it rushes through a deep canon toward the sea1 falling forty-two hundred feet between its source and mouth and for five hundred miles of its course tumbling in a series of five hundred and twenty cataracts and rapids--an average of slightly more than one to every mile4 ,think of the courage of brave ,major ,powell and his men1 who descended this terrible river for the first time1 and you have a subject for contemplation as sublime as the canon itself4 ,in the spring of #ahfi1 when ,john ,w4 ,powell started on his famous expedition1 the ,grand ,canon was totally unknown4 ,hunters and prospectors had seen enough to bring back wonderful stories4 ,parties had ventured into the gorge in boats and had never been heard of again4 ,the ,indians warned him that the canon was sacred to the gods1 who would consider any attempt to enter it an act of disobedience to their wishes and contempt for their authority1 and vengeance would surely follow4 ,the incessant roar of the waters told of many cataracts and it was currently reported that the river was lost underground for several hundred miles4 ,undaunted by these fearful tales1 ,major ,powell1 who had seen service in the ,civil ,war1 leaving an arm on the battlefield of ,shiloh1 determined1 nevertheless1 to descend the river4 ,he had long been a student of botany1 zooelogy1 and mineralogy and had devoted two years to a study of the geology of the region4 ,with nine other men as his companions1 he started from ,green ,river ,city1 ,wyoming1 on the #bdth of ,may1 with one light boat of pine and three heavy ones built of oak4 ,nothing could be more modest than his report to the ,government1 yet it is an account of thrilling adventures and hair-breadth escapes1 day by day1 almost too marvelous for belief4 ,yet there is not the slightest doubt of its authenticity in every detail4 ,at times the swift current carried them along with the speed of an express train1 the waves breaking and rolling over the boats1 which1 but for the water-tight compartments1 must have been swamped at the outset4 ,when a threatening roar gave warning of another cataract they would pull for the shore and prepare to make a portage4 ,the boats were unloaded and the stores of provisions1 instruments1 etc41 carried down to some convenient point below the falls4 ,then the boats were let down1 one by one4 ,the bow line would be taken below and made fast4 ,then with five or six men holding back on the stern line with all their strength1 the boat would be allowed to go down as far as they could hold it1 when the line would be cast off1 the boat would leap over the falls1 and be caught by the lower rope4 ,again and again1 day after day throughout the entire summer1 this hard work was continued4 ,in the early evenings and mornings ,major ,powell1 with a companion or two1 would climb to the top of the high cliffs1 towering to a height of perhaps two thousand or three thousand feet above the river1 to make his observations1 frequently getting into dangerous positions where a man with two arms would have difficulty in clinging to the rocks1 and where any one but a man of iron nerve would have met instant death4 ,day by day they faced what seemed certain destruction1 dashing through rapids1 spinning about in whirlpools1 capsizing in the breakers1 and clinging to the upturned boats until rescued or thrown up on some rocky islet1 breaking their oars1 losing or spoiling their rations until they were nearly gone1 and toiling incessantly every waking hour4 ,one of the boats was completely wrecked before they had crossed the ,arizona line1 and one man1 who barely escaped death in this accident1 left the party on ,july #e1 declaring that he had seen danger enough4 ,the remaining eight1 whether from loyalty to their chief or because it seemed impossible to climb to the top of the chasm1 continued to brave the perils of the river until ,august #bg1 when they had reached a point well below the mouth of the ,bright ,angel ,river4 ,here the danger seemed more appalling than at any previous time4 ,lateral streams had washed great boulders into the river1 forming a dam over which the water fell eighteen or twenty feet2 then appeared a rapid for two or three hundred yards on one side1 the walls of the canon projecting sharply into the river on the other2 then a second fall so great that its height could not be determined1 and beyond this more rapids1 filled with huge rocks for one or two hundred yards1 and at the bottom a great rock jutting halfway across the river1 having a sloping side up which the tumbling waters dashed in huge breakers4 ,after spending the afternoon clambering among the rocks to survey the river and coolly calculating his chances1 the dauntless ,powell announced his intention to proceed4 ,but there were three men whose courage was not equal to this latest demand1 and they firmly declined the risk4 ,on the morning of the #bhth1 after a breakfast that seemed like a funeral1 the three deserters--one can scarcely find the heart to blame them--climbed a crag to see their former comrades depart4 ,one boat is left behind4 ,the other two push out into the stream and in less than a minute have safely run the dangerous rapids1 which seemed bad enough from above1 but were in reality less difficult than many others previously experienced4 ,a succession of rapids and falls are safely run1 but after dinner they find themselves in another bad place4 ,the river is tumbling down over the rocks in whirlpools and great waves and the angry waters are lashed into white foam4 ,there is no possibility of a portage and both boats must go over the falls4 ,away they go1 dashing and plunging1 striking the rocks and rolling over and over until they reach the calmer waters below1 when as if by miracle it is found that every man in the party is uninjured and both the boats are safe4 ,by noon of the next day they have emerged from the ,grand ,canon into a valley where low mountains can be seen in the distance4 ,the river flows in silent majesty1 the sky is bright overhead1 the birds pour forth the music of a joyous welcome1 the toil and pain are over1 the gloomy shadows have disappeared1 and their joy is exquisite as they realize that the first passage of the long and terrible river has been safely accomplished and all are alive and well4 ,but what of the three who left them8 ,if only they could have known that safety and joy were little more than a day ahead6 ,they successfully climbed the steep canon walls1 only to encounter a band of ,indians who were looking for cattle thieves or other plunderers4 ,they could give no other account of their presence except to say they had come down the river4 ,this1 to the ,indian mind1 was so obviously an impossibility that the truth seemed an audacious lie and the three unfortunate men were murdered4 ,we were obliged to content ourselves with a view of the river from this height1 though ,i had expected to descend to the river's edge and felt correspondingly disappointed4 ,we had started too late for so long a trip and now it was time to turn back4 ,looking back at the solid and apparently perpendicular rock1 nearly a mile high1 it seemed impossible that any one could ascend to the top4 ,it is only when one looks out from the bottom of this vast chasm at the huge walls on every side that he begins to realize its awfulness4 ,we are mere specks in the bottom of a gigantic mould wherein some great mountain range might have been cast4 ,there are great mountains all about us and yet we are not on a mountain but in a vast hole4 ,the surface of the earth is above us4 ,a great gash has been cut into it1 two hundred miles long1 twelve to fifteen miles wide1 and a mile deep1 and we are in the depths of that frightful abyss with--to all appearance--no possible means of escape4 ,perpendicular cliffs of enormous height1 which not even a mountain sheep could climb1 hem us in on every side4 ,the shadows are growing deep and it seems that the day must be nearly done4 ,yet we remount our mules and slowly retrace our steps over the steep ascent4 ,it seems as though the strain would break the backs of the animals4 ,as we approached the summit of the path some one remarked1 ,i should think these mules would be so tired they would be ready to drop4 ,wait and see1 said the guide4 ,a few minutes later we reached the top and dismounted1 feeling pretty stiff from the exertion4 ,the mules were unsaddled and turned loose4 ,away they scampered like a lot of schoolboys at recess1 kicking their heels high in the air and racing madly across the field4 ,i guess they're not as tired as we are1 said the ,major1 as he painfully tried to straighten up4 ,just then the little girl of twelve came up to me4 ,there is one thing1 she said1 that has been puzzling me all day4 ,how in the world did you find out so quickly that your mule's name was ,sam8 ,name ain't ,sam1 interrupted the guide1 bluntly4 ,name's ,teddy--,teddy ,roosevelt4 ,some years ago ,i had occasion to attend a stereopticon lecture on the ,grand ,canon4 ,the speaker was enthusiastic and his pictures excellent4 ,but he fired off all his ammunition of adjectives with the first slide4 ,for an hour and a half we sat listening to an endless repetition of grand1 magnificent1 sublime1 awe-inspiring1 etc4 ,as we walked home a young lad in our party1 who was evidently studying rhetoric in school1 was heard to inquire1 ,mother1 wouldn't you call that an example of tautology8 ,i fear ,i should merit the same criticism if ,i were to undertake a description of the canon4 ,yet we may profitably stand1 for a few moments1 on ,hopi ,point1 a promontory that projects far out from the rim1 and try to measure it with our eyes4 ,that great wall on the opposite side is just thirteen miles away4 ,the strip of white at its upper edge1 which in my photograph measures less than a quarter of an inch1 is a stratum of limestone five hundred feet thick4 ,here and there we catch glimpses of the river4 ,it is five miles away1 and forty-six hundred feet--nearly a perpendicular mile--below the level upon which we are standing4 ,we look to the east and then to the west1 but we see only a small part of the chasm4 ,it melts away in the distance like a ship at sea4 ,from end to end it is two hundred and seventeen miles4 ,it is not one canon1 but thousands4 ,every river that runs into the ,colorado has cut out its own canon1 and each of these has its countless tributaries4 ,it has been estimated that if all the canons were placed end to end in a straight line they would stretch twenty thousand miles4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,grand ,,canon ,,of ,,arizona ,if this mighty gash in the earth's surface were only a great valley with gently sloping sides and a level floor1 it would still be impressive and inspiring1 though not so picturesque4 ,but its floor is filled with a multitude of temples and castles and amphitheaters of stupendous size1 all sculptured into strange shapes by the erosion of the waters4 ,any one of these1 if it could be transported to the level plains of the ,middle ,west or set up on the ,atlantic ,coast1 would be an object of wonder which hundreds of thousands would visit4 ,away off in the distance is the ,temple of ,shiva1 towering seventy-six hundred and fifty feet above the sea and fifty-two hundred and fourteen feet 7nearly a mile7 above the river4 ,take it to the ,white ,mountains and set it down in the ,crawford ,notch4 ,from its summit you would look down upon the old ,tip-,top house of ,mount ,washington1 eight hundred feet below4 ,much nearer1 and a little to the right1 is the ,pyramid of ,cheops1 a much smaller butte but rising fifty-three hundred and fifty feet above the sea-level4 ,if the ,great ,pyramid of ,cheops in ,egypt were to be placed by its side it would scarcely be visible from where we stand1 for it would be lost in the mass of rocky formations4 ,mr4 ,g4 ,wharton ,james1 who has spent many years of his life in the study of the canon1 says that he gazed upon it from a certain point every year for twenty years and often daily for weeks at a time4 ,he continues1 ,such is the marvelousness of distance that never until two days ago did ,i discover that a giant detached mountain fully eight thousand feet high and with a base ten miles square 444 stood in the direct line of my sight1 and as it were1 immediately before me4 ,he discovered it only because of a peculiarity of the light4 ,it had always appeared as a part of the great north wall1 though separated from it by a canon fully eight miles wide4 ,how are we to realize these enormous depths8 ,those isolated peaks and mountains1 of which there are hundreds1 are really only details in the vast stretch of the canon4 ,not one of them reaches above the level of the plain on the north side4 ,tourists who have traveled much are familiar with the great cathedrals of ,europe4 ,let us drop a few of them into the canon4 ,first1 ,st4 ,peter's1 the greatest cathedral in the world4 ,we lower it to the level of the river1 and it disappears behind the granite cliff4 ,let the stately ,duomo of ,milan follow4 ,its beautiful minarets and multitude of statues are lost in the distance1 and though we place it on the top of ,st4 ,peter's1 it1 too1 is out of sight behind the cliffs4 ,we must have something larger1 so we place on top of ,milan the great cathedral of ,cologne1 five hundred and one feet high1 and the tips of its two great spires barely appear above the point from which we watched the swiftly rolling river4 ,now let us poise on the top of ,cologne's spires1 two great ,gothic cathedrals of ,france1 ,notre ,dame and ,amiens1 one above the other1 then add ,st4 ,paul's of ,london1 the three great towers of ,lincoln1 the triple spires of ,lichfield1 ,canterbury with its great central tower1 and the single spire1 four hundred and four feet high1 of ,salisbury4 ,we are still far from the top4 ,these units of measurement are too small4 ,let us add the tallest office building in the world1 seven hundred and fifty feet high1 and then the ,eiffel ,tower1 of nine hundred and eighty-six feet4 ,we shall still need the ,washington ,monument1 and if my calculations are correct1 an extension ladder seventy-five feet long on top of that1 to enable us to reach the top of the northern wall4 ,one might amuse himself indefinitely with such comparisons4 ,perhaps they are futile1 but it is only by some such method that one can form the faintest conception of the colossal dimensions of this1 the greatest chasm in the world4 ,still more bewildering is the attempt to measure the canon in periods of time4 ,there were two great periods in its history--first1 the period of upheaval1 and second1 that of erosion4 ,when the geologic movement was in process which created the continent1 with the ,rocky ,mountains for its backbone1 this entire region became a plateau1 vastly higher than at present1 with its greatest elevation far to the north4 ,then the rivers began to carry the rains and snows to the sea1 carving channels for themselves through the rocky surface4 ,the steep decline caused the waters to flow with swiftness4 ,the little streamlets united to form larger ones1 and these in turn joined their waters in still greater streams4 ,the larger the stream and the swifter the flow1 the faster the channel would be carved4 ,the softer rocks gave slight resistance1 but when the granite or harder formations were encountered1 the streams would eddy and whirl about in search of new channels1 the hard rocks forming a temporary dam4 ,in this way the hundreds of buttes were formed4 ,the ,green ,river and the ,grand unite to form the ,colorado1 the entire course of this great waterway stretching for two thousand miles4 ,the two streams carry down a mighty flood--in former ages it was far mightier than now--which in its swift descent has ground the rocks into sand and silt and with resistless force carried them down to the sea4 ,those great buttes and strangely sculptured temples1 each a formidable mountain1 were not thrown up by volcanic forces1 but have been carved out of the solid earth by the erosion of the waters4 ,that river five miles away1 of which we see only glimpses here and there1 was the tool with which the ,great ,sculptor carved all this wondrous chasm4 ,major ,powell has calculated that the amount of rock thus ground to pieces and carried away would be equivalent to a mass two hundred thousand square miles in area and a full mile in thickness4 ,think of excavating a mile deep the entire territory of ,new ,england1 ,new ,york1 ,new ,jersey1 ,pennsylvania1 ,delaware1 ,maryland1 and ,west ,virginia1 and dumping it all into the ,atlantic4 ,then think that this is the task the ,colorado ,river and other geologic forces have accomplished1 and pause to wonder how long it took to complete the process6 ,if the ,egyptian kings who built the pyramids had come here for material they would have seen the chasm substantially as we see it6 ,the geologic story of the canon's origin is too far beyond our comprehension4 ,let us turn to the ,indian account4 ,a great chief lost his wife and refused to be comforted4 ,an ,indian ,god1 ,ta-vwoats1 came to him and offered to conduct him to a happier land where he might see her1 if he would promise to cease mourning4 ,then ,ta-vwoats made a trail through the mountains to the happy land and there the chief saw his wife4 ,this trail was the canon of the ,colorado4 ,the deity made the chief promise that he would reveal the path to no man1 lest all might wish to go at once to heaven1 and in order to block the way still more effectually he rolled a mad surging river through the gorges so swift and strong that it would destroy any one who dared attempt to enter heaven by that route4 ,i have often been asked which is the greater wonder1 the ,grand ,canon of the ,colorado ,river or the ,yellowstone ,national ,park4 ,the question is unanswerable4 ,one might as well attempt to say whether the sea is more beautiful than the sky4 ,if mere size is meant1 the ,grand ,canon is vastly greater4 ,if all the geysers of the ,yellowstone were placed down in the bottom of the ,grand ,canon at the level of the river1 and all were to play at once1 the effect would be unnoticed from ,hopi ,point4 ,the canon of the ,yellowstone ,river1 impressive as it is1 would be lost in one of the side canons of the ,colorado4 ,the ,grand ,canon and the ,yellowstone are creations of a totally different kind4 ,the ,yellowstone is a garden of wonders4 ,the ,grand ,canon is a sublime spectacle4 ,the ,yellowstone is a variety of interesting units4 ,the ,grand ,canon is a unit of infinite variety4 ,the ,yellowstone contains a collection of individual marvels1 each wondrous in structure and many of them exquisite in beauty4 ,the ,grand ,canon is one vast masterpiece of unimagined architecture1 limitless grandeur1 and ever-changing but splendidly harmonious brilliancy of color4 ,the ,yellowstone fills the mind with wonder and amazement at all the varied resources of ,nature4 ,the ,grand ,canon fills the soul with awe and reverence as one stands in silence upon the brink and humbly reflects upon the infinite power of ,god4 ,,the ,,end ,,index ,,index ,alcott1 ,a4 ,bronson1 #aib1 #aic4 ,alcott1 ,louisa ,m41 #aic4 ,aldrich1 ,thomas ,bailey1 #bjg-bj4 ,amiel1 ,henri ,frederic1 #aah2 #abd-bg4 ,anderson1 ,mary1 #aaj1 #aab1 #aac4 ,appledore1 #bbb1 #bbc1 #bcb4 ,arbury ,hall1 #bj-bh4 ,,arizona1 ,,the ,,grand ,,canon ,,of1 #bga-if4 ,arnold1 ,thomas1 #eb1 #ih1 #ii4 ,arona1 #aef4 ,authari1 the ,long-haired1 #afd4 ,ayrshire1 #df-dh4 ,bashkirtseff1 ,marie1 #acb1 #acc4 ,bastien-,lepage1 #acc4 ,battlefield of ,concord1 #ahf1 #ahg4 ,belgirate1 #aee-ef4 ,bellagio1 #afh4 ,borromeo1 ,carlo1 #aef1 #afa4 ,borromeo1 ,count ,vitaliano1 #aed4 ,bruce1 ,robert1 #he1 #ij1 #ia4 ,burns1 ,robert1 #dc-dh4 ,,burroughs1 ,,john1 ,a ,,day ,,with1 #bcc-ej4 ,burroughs1 ,john1 #bbg1 #bbh4 ,byron1 ,lord1 #adc1 #add4 ,cadenabbia1 #aeh1 #aei4 ,canon of the ,yellowstone1 the1 #bfg-fi4 ,carlyle1 ,thomas1 #da1 #dd1 #ff4 ,caroline1 ,queen1 #afh4 ,catskill ,mountains1 #bcg1 #bch1 #bci1 #bdb1 #bdc1 #bdf4 ,channing1 ,ellery1 #ahf4 ,coleridge1 ,hartley1 #fb4 ,coleridge1 ,samuel ,t41 #ea1 #fa1 #fb4 ,colorado ,river1 the1 #bhb-hh2 #bic-ie4 ,colvin1 ,sir ,sidney1 #ai-ba4 ,como1 ,city of1 #afe1 #afh4 ,como1 ,lake1 #ie-ih2 #acg2 #ach2 #aej2 #aeh-fh4 ,concord1 ,massachusetts1 #agi-ie4 ,deffand1 ,marquise du1 #adj4 ,de ,quincey1 ,thomas1 #eb1 #ei1 #fc1 #fd4 ,drummond1 ,william1 #gg-hd4 ,ecclefechan1 #da-dd4 ,eliot ,george1 #bj-ce4 ,ellastone1 original of ,hayslope1 #ca4 ,emerson1 ,lidian1 #ahh1 #aij4 ,emerson1 ,ralph ,waldo1 #ag2 #aha-ib2 #bdi4 ,esk1 ,vale of the1 #ge-ib4 ,esthwaite1 ,lake1 #ef4 ,evans1 ,rev4 ,frederick ,r41 #bh-bi4 ,fields1 ,james ,t41 #aii1 #bjj4 ,gaeta vase1 #agj4 ,gallio1 ,cardinal1 #afh4 ,gould1 ,jay1 #bcf1 #bcg4 ,,grand ,,canon ,,of ,,arizona1 ,,the1 #bga-if4 ,grant1 ,gen4 ,u4 ,s41 #bdd4 ,grasmere1 #ei1 #fj1 #fa1 #fe1 #ff4 ,gravedona1 palace of ,cardinal ,gallio1 #afh4 ,,great ,,britain1 ,,literary ,,rambles ,,in1 #ae-dh4 ,green1 ,thomas ,h41 #aag1 #aah1 #abb1 #abc1 #abd1 #abg4 ,haines1 ,george1 #agj-gd4 ,hawthorne1 ,elizabeth1 #aih1 #aii4 ,hawthorne1 ,madam1 #aih1 #bjj4 ,hawthorne1 ,nathaniel2 in ,concord1 #agi-ie2 in ,salem1 #aif-bjf4 ,hawthorne1 ,sophia ,peabody1 #ahj1 #ahe2 #aih2 #aii4 ,,hawthornden ,,to ,,roslin ,,glen1 ,,from1 #gc-ib4 ,holmes1 ,oliver ,wendell1 #ag4 ,house of the ,seven ,gables1 ,the1 #aif1 #bjb-jf4 ,il ,medeghino1 #afj-fc4 ,iron ,crown of ,lombardy1 #afe4 ,isles of ,shoals1 the1 #bbb-cb4 ,isola ,bella1 #aeb-ee4 ,isola dei ,pescatori1 #aee4 ,isola ,madre1 #aee4 ,,italian ,,lakes1 ,a ,,tour ,,of ,,the1 #adg-gd4 ,jonson1 ,ben1 #ha-hd4 ,lacus ,larius4 ,see ,como4 ,lacus ,verbanus4 ,see ,maggiore4 ,lady ,wentworth1 scenes of1 #bbj1 #bba4 ,laighton1 ,oscar1 #bbi4 ,lamb1 ,william and ,caroline1 #ada-dd4 ,lasswade1 #ge-gf4 ,lecco1 ,lake1 #ie1 #if4 ,lespinasse1 ,julie de1 #aci-da4 ,longfellow1 ,henry ,wadsworth1 #ag2 #aei2 #bbj2 #bba4 ,lowell1 ,james ,russell1 #ag2 #ee2 #bcb4 ,lugano1 ,lake1 #if1 #aea1 #aeg1 #aei4 ,luino1 #aef1 #aeg4 ,maggiore1 ,lake1 #if1 #adi1 #aej1 #aeb-ef1 #aei4 ,mammoth ,hot ,springs1 #bee-eg4 ,medici1 ,gian ,giacomo de 7,il ,medeghino71 #afj-fc4 ,melbourne1 ,lord1 #ada-dd4 ,menaggio1 #afj4 ,minute-,man1 the1 ,concord1 #ahf1 #ahg4 ,monument1 the1 on battlefield of ,concord1 #ahf1 #ahg4 ,musketaquid1 river at ,concord1 #ahe4 ,,new ,,england1 ,,literary ,,landmarks ,,of1 #age-bcb4 ,nuneaton1 #bj1 #bb1 #bi1 #cj4 ,nutter ,house1 the1 #bjg-af4 ,old ,faithful1 #bed2 #bfb-fe4 ,old ,manse1 the1 #agi-hf4 ,oxford1 #ii-ajj4 ,passmore ,edwards ,settlement1 ,london1 #ajc-ji1 #abg4 ,pattison1 ,mark1 #ajj2 #aag-ba2 #abf1 #abg4 ,peabody1 ,elizabeth ,palmer1 #aih4 ,peabody1 ,mary 7,mrs4 ,horace ,mann71 #aih4 ,peabody1 ,dr4 ,nathaniel1 #aig4 ,peabody1 ,sophia4 ,see ,hawthorne1 ,sophia ,peabody4 ,pliny1 the ,elder1 #afj1 #aff4 ,pliny1 the ,younger1 #aff1 #afg4 ,pogliaghi1 ,lombard decorator1 #agj1 #aga4 ,portsmouth1 ,n4,h41 #bjg-ba4 ,powell1 ,major ,john ,w41 #bhc-hg4 ,ripley1 ,rev4 ,ezra1 #ahb4 ,ripley1 ,rev4 ,samuel1 #ahb4 ,robert ,elsmere1 #ajb1 #aji1 #aaj-bg4 ,roslin ,castle1 #hf-hh4 ,roslin ,chapel1 #hh1 #ij4 ,roslin ,glen1 #ge-ib4 ,st4 ,clair family1 of ,roslin1 #hg1 #hh1 #ia1 #ib4 ,salem1 ,massachusetts1 #aif-bjf4 ,salpion1 ,greek sculptor1 #agj4 ,scarlet ,letter1 ,the1 #bja-jb4 ,scott1 ,sir ,walter1 #cg1 #ch1 #ci1 #de1 #df1 #ge1 #gf1 #hi1 #ij1 #bci4 ,sleepy ,hollow ,cemetery1 ,concord1 #ahg-hi4 ,southey1 ,robert1 #ea4 ,thaxter1 ,celia1 #bba1 #bbc-cb4 ,theodelinda1 ,queen of the ,lombards1 #afc-fe4 ,thoreau1 ,henry ,d41 #ahb-ia2 #bbh4 ,tower of ,london1 #ah4 ,tremezzo1 #afh4 ,varenna1 #afc4 ,victoria ,monument1 ,london1 #dj4 ,villa ,bonaventura1 #afi4 ,villa ,carlotta1 #afh1 #afi4 ,villa d',este1 #afh4 ,villa ,maria1 #afi-gd4 ,villa ,pliniana1 #afg1 #afh4 ,walden ,pond1 #aia4 ,,ward1 ,,mrs4 ,,humphry1 ,,the ,,country ,,of1 #ic-adf4 ,ward1 ,mrs4 ,humphry1 scenes of novels1 #cf1 #cg1 #aaa-ag2 #abh-ca2 #acd-ch2 #ade2 #afi4 ,washburn1 ,gen4 ,henry ,d41 #bec4 ,wayside1 the1 ,hawthorne's house in ,concord1 #aic1 #aid4 ,wentworth ,house1 #bbj-ba4 ,westmoreland1 #ea-gb2 #ih2 #aca2 #acd2 #ace2 #acf2 #bci2 #bda4 ,white1 ,gilbert1 #bbh4 ,wilson1 ,john 7,christopher ,north71 #eb4 ,windermere1 ,lake1 #ed2 #fh2 #gj2 #ih4 ,windermere village1 #ea4 ,,wordsworth',s ,,country1 ,a ,,day ,,in1 #di-gb4 ,wordsworth1 ,dorothy1 #da1 #fc1 #fd1 #fe4 ,wordsworth1 ,mrs41 #fc4 ,wordsworth1 ,william1 #da2 #ea-gb2 #ih2 #aeh2 #bci-dc4 ,,yellowstone1 ,,glimpses ,,of ,,the1 #bea-fi4 ,yellowstone ,lake1 the1 #bfa2 #bfg4 ,yellowstone ,national ,park1 the1 #bie1 #bif4 ,yellowstone ,river1 the1 #bfg1 #bfh4 ,the ,riverside ,press ,,cambridge 4 ,,massachusetts ,u4 ,s4 ,a4