,transcribed from the #ahif ,john ,murray edition by ,david ,price1 email ccx#jgdpglaf4org ,picture3 ,toledo ,,the ,,bible ,,in ,,spain2 ,,or1 ,,the ,,journeys1 ,,adventures1 ,,and ,,imprisonments ,,of ,,an ,,englishman ,,in ,,an ,,attempt ,,to ,,circulate ,,the ,,scriptures ,,in ,,the ,,peninsula ,,by ,,george ,,borrow4 99 99 99 99 99 ,a ,,new ,,edition1 ,,with ,,notes ,,and ,a ,,glossary1 ,,by ,,ulick ,,ralph ,,burke1 ,m4,a41 ,,author ,,of 8,a ,,history ,,of ,,spain10 ,,etc4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,in ,,two ,,volumes4 ,,vol4 ,,ii4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,with ,,map ,,and ,,engravings4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,london3 ,,john ,,murray1 ,,albemarle ,,street4 #ahif4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,london3 ,,printed ,,by ,,william ,,clowes ,,and ,,sons1 ,,limited1 ,,stamford ,,street ,,and ,,charing ,,cross4 ,,contents ,,of ,,vol4 ,,ii4 ,,page ,,chapter ,,xxix4 ,arrival at ,padron--,projected ,enterprise--,the ,alquilador--,breach #a of ,promise--,an ,odd ,companion--,a ,plain ,story--,rugged ,paths--,the ,desertion--,the ,pony--,a ,dialogue--,unpleasant ,situation--,the ,estadea--,benighted--,the ,hut--,the ,traveller's ,pillow ,,chapter ,,xxx4 ,autumnal ,morning--,the ,world's ,end--,corcuvion--,duyo--,the ,cape--,a #bj ,whale--,the ,outer ,bay--,the ,arrest--,the ,fisher-,magistrate--,calros ,rey--,hard of ,belief--,where is your ,passport8--,the ,beach--,a ,mighty ,liberal--,the ,handmaid--,the ,grand ,baintham--,eccentric ,book--,hospitality ,,chapter ,,xxxi4 ,corunna--,crossing the ,bay--,ferrol--,the ,dock-yard--,where are we #da now8--,greek ,ambassador--,lantern-,light--,the ,ravine--,viveiro--,evening--,marsh and ,quagmire--,fair ,words and ,fair ,money--,the ,leathern ,girth--,eyes of ,lynx--,the ,knavish ,guide ,,chapter ,,xxxii4 ,martin of ,rivadeo--,the ,factious ,mare--,asturians--,luarca--,the #eg ,seven ,bellotas--,hermits--,the ,asturian's ,tale--,strange ,guests--,the ,big ,servant--,batuschca ,,chapter ,,xxxiii4 ,oviedo--,the ,ten ,gentlemen--,the ,swiss again--,modest ,request--,the #gj ,robbers--,episcopal ,benevolence--,the ,cathedral--,portrait of ,feijoo ,,chapter ,,xxxiv4 ,departure from ,oviedo--,villa ,viciosa--,the ,young ,man of the #hb ,inn--,antonio's ,tale--,the ,general and his ,family--,woful ,tidings--,to-morrow we die--,san ,vicente--,santander--,an ,harangue--,flinter the ,irishman ,,chapter ,,xxxv4 ,departure from ,santander--,the ,night ,alarm--,the ,black ,pass #ie ,,chapter ,,xxxvi4 ,state of ,affairs at ,madrid--,the ,new ,ministry--,pope of ,rome--,the #ii ,bookseller of ,toledo--,sword-blades--,houses of ,toledo--,the ,forlorn ,gypsy--,proceedings at ,madrid--,another ,servant ,,chapter ,,xxxvii4 ,euscarra--,basque not ,irish--,sanscrit and ,tartar ,dialects--,a #aaa ,vowel ,language--,popular ,poetry--,the ,basques--,their ,persons--,basque ,women ,,chapter ,,xxxviii4 ,the ,prohibition--,gospel ,persecuted--,charge of ,sorcery--,ofalia #aba ,,chapter ,,xxxix4 ,the ,two ,gospels--,the ,alguazil--,the ,warrant--,the ,good ,maria--,the #abg ,arrest--,sent to ,prison--,reflections--,the ,reception--,the ,prison ,room--,redress demanded ,,chapter ,,xl4 ,ofalia--,the ,juez--,carcel de la ,corte--,sunday in ,prison--,robber #ada ,dress--,father and ,son--,characteristic ,behaviour--,the ,frenchman--,prison ,allowance--,valley of the ,shadow--,pure ,castilian--,balseiro--,the ,cave--,robber ,glory ,,chapter ,,xli4 ,maria ,diaz--,priestly ,vituperation--,antonio's ,visit--,antonio at #aei ,service--,a ,scene--,benedict ,mol--,wandering in ,spain--,the ,four ,evangelien ,,chapter ,,xlii4 ,liberation from ,prison--,the ,apology--,human ,nature--,the ,greek's #afi ,return--,church of ,rome--,light of ,scripture--,archbishop of ,toledo--,an ,interview--,stones of ,price--,a ,resolution--,the ,foreign ,language--,benedict's ,farewell--,treasure ,hunt at ,compostella--,truth and ,fiction ,,chapter ,,xliii4 ,villa ,seca--,moorish ,house--,the ,puchera--,the ,rustic #ahe ,council--,polite ,ceremonial--,the ,flower of ,spain--,the ,bridge of ,azeca--,the ,ruined ,castle--,taking the ,field--,demand for the ,word--,the ,old ,peasant--,the ,curate and ,blacksmith--,cheapness of the ,scriptures ,,chapter ,,xliv4 ,aranjuez--,a ,warning--,a ,night ,adventure--,a ,fresh #bjb ,expedition--,segovia--,abades--,factiou s ,curas--,lopez in ,prison--,rescue of ,lopez ,,chapter ,,xlv4 ,return to ,spain--,seville--,a ,hoary ,persecutor--,manchegan #bad ,prophetess--,antonio's ,dream ,,chapter ,,xlvi4 ,work of ,distribution resumed--,adventure at ,cobea--,power of the #bbj ,clergy--,rural ,authorities--,fuente la ,higuera--,victoriano's ,mishap--,village ,prison--,the ,rope--,antonio's ,errand--,antonio at ,mass ,,chapter ,,xlvii4 ,termination of our ,rural ,labours--,alarm of the ,clergy--,a ,new #bcb ,experiment--,success at ,madrid--,goblin-,alguazil--,staff of ,office--,the ,corregidor--,an ,explanation--,the ,pope in ,england--,new ,testament expounded--,works of ,luther ,,chapter ,,xlviii4 ,projected ,journey--,a ,scene of ,blood--,the ,friar--,seville--,beauties #bde of ,seville--,orange ,trees and ,flowers--,murillo--,the ,guardian ,angel--,dionysius--,my ,coadjutors--,demand for the ,bible ,,chapter ,,xlix4 ,the ,solitary ,house--,the ,dehesa--,johannes #beh ,chrysostom--,manuel--,bookselling at ,seville--,dionysius and the ,priests--,athens and ,rome--,proselytism--,seizure of ,testaments--,departure from ,seville ,,chapter ,l4 ,night on the ,guadalquivir--,gospel ,light--,bonanza--,strand of ,san #bga ,lucar--,andalusian ,scenery--,history of a ,chest--,cosas de los ,ingleses--,the ,two ,gypsies--,the ,driver--,the ,red ,nightcap--,the ,steam-,boat--,christian ,language ,,chapter ,,li4 ,cadiz--,the ,fortifications--,the ,consul-,general--,characteristic #bhf ,anecdote--,catalan ,steamer--,trafalgar--,alonzo ,guzman--,gibil ,muza--,orestes ,frigate--,the ,hostile ,lion--,works of the ,creator--,lizard of the ,rock--,the ,concourse--,queen of the ,waters--,broken ,prayer ,,chapter ,,lii4 ,the ,jolly ,hosteler--,aspirants for ,glory--,a #cje ,portrait--,hamles--,solomons--,an ,expedition--,the ,yeoman ,soldier--,the ,excavations--,the ,pull by the ,skirt--,judah and his ,father--,judah's ,pilgrimage--,the ,bushy ,beard--,the ,false ,moors--,judah and the ,king's ,son--,premature ,old ,age ,,chapter ,,liii4 ,genoese ,mariners--,saint ,michael's ,cave--,midnight ,abysses--,young #cbf ,american--,a ,slave ,proprietor--,the ,fairy ,man--,infidelity ,,chapter ,,liv4 ,again on ,board--,the ,strange ,visage--,the ,haji--,setting ,sail--,the #cce ,two ,jews--,american ,vessel--,tangier--,adun ,oulem--,the ,struggle--,the ,forbidden ,thing ,,chapter ,,lv4 ,the ,mole--,the ,two ,moors--,djmah of ,tangier--,house of ,god--,british #cdh ,consul--,curious ,spectacle--,the ,moorish ,house--,joanna ,correa--,ave ,maria ,,chapter ,,lvi4 ,the ,mahasni--,sin ,samani--,the ,bazaar--,moorish ,saints--,see the #cei ,ayana6--,the ,prickly ,fig--,jewish ,graves--,the ,place of ,carcases--,the ,stable ,boy--,horses of the ,moslem--,dar-dwag ,,chapter ,,lvii4 ,strange ,trio--,the ,mulatto--,the ,peace-offering--,moors of #cgc ,granada--,vive la ,guadeloupe--,the ,moors--,pascual ,fava--,blind ,algerine--,the ,retreat ,,glossary #che ,,list ,,of ,,illustrations4 ,,vol4 ,,ii4 ,,toledo4 ,etched by ,,manesse ,frontispiece ,,segovia4 ,from a ,sketch by ,a4 ,h4 ,,hallam ,,murray ,to face #baj ,engraved by ,,manesse ,,chapter ,,xxix4 ,arrival at ,padron--,projected ,enterprise--,the ,alquilador--,breach of ,promise--,an ,odd ,companion--,a ,plain ,story--,rugged ,paths--,the ,desertion--,the ,pony--,a ,dialogue--,unpleasant ,situation--,the ,estadea--,benighted--,the ,hut--,the ,traveller's ,pillow4 ,i arrived at ,padron late in the evening1 on my return from ,pontevedra and ,vigo4 ,it was my intention at this place to send my servant and horses forward to ,santiago1 and to hire a guide to ,cape ,finisterre4 ,it would be difficult to assign any plausible reason for the ardent desire which ,i entertained to visit this place2 but ,i remembered that last year ,i had escaped almost by a miracle from shipwreck and death on the rocky sides of this extreme point of the ,old ,world1 and ,i thought that to convey the ,gospel to a place so wild and remote might perhaps be considered an acceptable pilgrimage in the eyes of my ,maker4 ,true it is that but one copy remained of those which ,i had brought with me on this last journey2 but this reflection1 far from discouraging me in my projected enterprise1 produced the contrary effect1 as ,i called to mind that1 ever since the ,lord revealed ,himself to man1 it has seemed good to ,him to accomplish the greatest ends by apparently the most insufficient means2 and ,i reflected that this one copy might serve as an instrument for more good than the four thousand nine hundred and ninety-nine copies of the edition of ,madrid4 ,i was aware that my own horses were quite incompetent to reach ,finisterre1 as the roads or paths lie through stony ravines1 and over rough and shaggy hills1 and therefore determined to leave them behind with ,antonio1 whom ,i was unwilling to expose to the fatigues of such a journey4 ,i lost no time in sending for an alquilador1 or person who lets out horses1 and informing him of my intention4 ,he said he had an excellent mountain pony at my disposal1 and that he himself would accompany me2 but at the same time observed1 that it was a terrible journey for man and horse1 and that he expected to be paid accordingly4 ,i consented to give him what he demanded1 but on the express condition that he would perform his promise of attending me himself1 as ,i was unwilling to trust myself four or five days amongst the hills with any low fellow of the town whom he might select1 and who it was very possible might play me some evil turn4 ,he replied by the term invariably used by the ,spaniards when they see doubt or distrust exhibited3 8,no tenga usted cuidado1 #b ,i will go myself40 ,having thus arranged the matter perfectly satisfactorily1 as ,i thought1 ,i partook of a slight supper1 and shortly afterwards retired to repose4 ,i had requested the alquilador to call me the next morning at three o'clock2 he1 however1 did not make his appearance till five1 having1 ,i suppose1 overslept himself1 which was indeed my own case4 ,i arose in a hurry1 dressed1 put a few things in a bag1 not forgetting the ,testament1 which ,i had resolved to present to the inhabitants of ,finisterre4 ,i then sallied forth and saw my friend the alquilador1 who was holding by the bridle the pony or jaca which was destined to carry me in my expedition4 ,it was a beautiful little animal1 apparently strong and full of life1 without one single white hair in its whole body1 which was black as the plumage of the crow4 ,behind it stood a strange-looking figure of the biped species1 to whom1 however1 at the moment1 ,i paid little attention1 but of whom ,i shall have plenty to say in the sequel4 ,having asked the horse-lender whether he was ready to proceed1 and being answered in the affirmative1 ,i bade adieu to ,antonio1 and putting the pony in motion1 we hastened out of the town1 taking at first the road which leads towards ,santiago4 ,observing that the figure which ,i have previously alluded to was following close at our heels1 ,i asked the alquilador who it was1 and the reason of its following us2 to which he replied that it was a servant of his1 who would proceed a little way with us and then return4 ,so on we went at a rapid rate1 till we were within a quarter of a mile of the ,convent of the ,esclavitud1 a little beyond which he had informed me that we should have to turn off from the high-road2 but here he suddenly stopped short1 and in a moment we were all at a standstill4 ,i questioned the guide as to the reason of this1 but received no answer4 ,the fellow's eyes were directed to the ground1 and he seemed to be counting with the most intense solicitude the prints of the hoofs of the oxen1 mules1 and horses in the dust of the road4 ,i repeated my demand in a louder voice2 when1 after a considerable pause1 he somewhat elevated his eyes1 without1 however1 looking me in the face1 and said that he believed that ,i entertained the idea that he himself was to guide me to ,finisterre1 which if ,i did1 he was very sorry for1 the thing being quite impossible1 as he was perfectly ignorant of the way1 and1 moreover1 incapable of performing such a journey over rough and difficult ground1 as he was no longer the man he had been2 and1 over and above all that1 he was engaged that day to accompany a gentleman to ,pontevedra1 who was at that moment expecting him4 8,but10 continued he1 8as ,i am always desirous of behaving like a caballero to everybody1 ,i have taken measures to prevent your being disappointed4 ,this person10 pointing to the figure1 8,i have engaged to accompany you4 ,he is a most trustworthy person1 and is well acquainted with the route to ,finisterre1 having been thither several times with this very jaca on which you are mounted4 ,he will1 besides1 be an agreeable companion to you on the way1 as he speaks ,french and ,english very well1 and has been all over the world40 ,the fellow ceased speaking at last2 and ,i was so struck with his craft1 impudence1 and villany1 that some time elapsed before ,i could find an answer4 ,i then reproached him in the bitterest terms for his breach of promise1 and said that ,i was much tempted to return to the town instantly1 complain of him to the alcalde1 and have him punished at any expense4 ,to which he replied1 8,sir ,cavalier1 by so doing you will be nothing nearer ,finisterre1 to which you seem so eager to get4 ,take my advice1 spur on the jaca1 for you see it is getting late1 and it is twelve long leagues from hence to ,corcuvion1 where you must pass the night2 and from thence to ,finisterre is no trifle4 ,as for the man1 no tenga usted cuidado1 he is the best guide in ,galicia1 speaks ,english and ,french1 and will bear you pleasant company40 ,by this time ,i had reflected that by returning to ,padron ,i should indeed be only wasting time1 and that by endeavouring to have the fellow punished no benefit would accrue to me2 moreover1 as he seemed to be a scoundrel in every sense of the word1 ,i might as well proceed in the company of any person as in his4 ,i therefore signified my intention of proceeding1 and told him to go back1 in the ,lord's name1 and repent of his sins4 ,but having gained one point1 he thought he had best attempt another2 so placing himself about a yard before the jaca1 he said that the price which ,i had agreed to pay him for the loan of his horse 7which1 by-the-by1 was the full sum he had demanded7 was by no means sufficient1 and that before ,i proceeded ,i must promise him two dollars more1 adding that he was either drunk or mad when he had made such a bargain4 ,i was now thoroughly incensed1 and without a moment's reflection1 spurred the jaca1 which flung him down in the dust1 and passed over him4 ,looking back at the distance of a hundred yards1 ,i saw him standing in the same place1 his hat on the ground1 gazing after us1 and crossing himself most devoutly4 ,his servant1 or whatever he was1 far from offering any assistance to his principal1 no sooner saw the jaca in motion than he ran on by its side1 without word or comment1 further than striking himself lustily on the thigh with his right palm4 ,we soon passed the ,esclavitud1 and presently afterwards turned to the left into a stony broken path leading to fields of maize4 ,we passed by several farm-houses1 and at last arrived at a dingle1 the sides of which were plentifully overgrown with dwarf oaks1 and which slanted down to a small dark river shaded with trees1 which we crossed by a rude bridge4 ,by this time ,i had had sufficient time to scan my odd companion from head to foot4 ,his utmost height1 had he made the most of himself1 might perhaps have amounted to five feet one inch2 but he seemed somewhat inclined to stoop4 ,nature had gifted him with an immense head1 and placed it clean upon his shoulders1 for amongst the items of his composition it did not appear that a neck had been included4 ,arms long and brawny swung at his sides1 and the whole of his frame was as strong built and powerful as a wrestler's2 his body was supported by a pair of short but very nimble legs4 ,his face was very long1 and would have borne some slight resemblance to a human countenance had the nose been more visible1 for its place seemed to have been entirely occupied by a wry mouth and large staring eyes4 ,his dress consisted of three articles3 an old and tattered hat of the ,portuguese kind1 broad at the crown and narrow at the eaves1 something which appeared to be a shirt1 and dirty canvas trousers4 ,willing to enter into conversation with him1 and remembering that the alquilador had informed me that he spoke languages1 ,i asked him1 in ,english1 if he had always acted in the capacity of guide4 ,whereupon he turned his eyes with a singular expression upon my face1 gave a loud laugh1 a long leap1 and clapped his hands thrice above his head4 ,perceiving that he did not understand me1 ,i repeated my demand in ,french1 and was again answered by the laugh1 leap1 and clapping4 ,at last he said1 in broken ,spanish1 8,master mine1 speak ,spanish in ,god's name1 and ,i can understand you1 and still better if you speak ,gallegan1 but ,i can promise no more4 ,i heard what the alquilador told you1 but he is the greatest embustero in the whole land1 and deceived you then as he did when he promised to accompany you4 ,i serve him for my sins2 but it was an evil hour when ,i left the deep sea and turned guide40 ,he then informed me that he was a native of ,padron1 and a mariner by profession1 having spent the greater part of his life in the ,spanish navy1 in which service he had visited ,cuba and many parts of the ,spanish ,americas1 adding1 8when my master told you that ,i should bear you pleasant company by the way1 it was the only word of truth that has come from his mouth for a month2 and long before you reach ,finisterre you will have rejoiced that the servant1 and not the master1 went with you3 he is dull and heavy1 but ,i am what you see40 ,he then gave two or three first-rate somersaults1 again laughed loudly1 and clapped his hands4 8,you would scarcely think10 he continued1 8that ,i drove that little pony yesterday1 heavily laden1 all the way from ,corunna4 ,we arrived at ,padron at two o'clock this morning2 but we are nevertheless both willing and able to undertake a fresh journey4 ,no tenga usted cuidado1 as my master said1 no one ever complains of that pony or of me40 ,in this kind of discourse we proceeded a considerable way through a very picturesque country1 until we reached a beautiful village at the skirt of a mountain4 8,this village10 said my guide1 8is called ,los ,angeles1 because its church was built long since by the angels2 they placed a beam of gold beneath it1 which they brought down from heaven1 and which was once a rafter of ,god's own house4 ,it runs all the way under the ground from hence to the cathedral of ,compostella40 ,passing through the village1 which he likewise informed me possessed baths1 and was much visited by the people of ,santiago1 we shaped our course to the north-west1 and by so doing doubled a mountain which rose majestically over our heads1 its top crowned with bare and broken rocks1 whilst on our right1 on the other side of a spacious valley1 was a high range connected with the mountains to the northward of ,saint ,james4 ,on the summit of this range rose high embattled towers1 which my guide informed me were those of ,altamira1 an ancient and ruined castle1 formerly the principal residence in this province of the counts of that name4 ,turning now due west1 we were soon at the bottom of a steep and rugged pass1 which led to more elevated regions4 ,the ascent cost us nearly half an hour1 and the difficulties of the ground were such that ,i more than once congratulated myself on having left my own horses behind1 and being mounted on the gallant little pony1 which1 accustomed to such paths1 scrambled bravely forward1 and eventually brought us in safety to the top of the ascent4 ,here we entered a ,gallegan cabin1 or choza1 for the purpose of refreshing the animal and ourselves4 ,the quadruped ate some maize1 whilst we two bipeds regaled ourselves on some broa and aguardiente1 which a woman whom we found in the hut placed before us4 ,i walked out for a few minutes to observe the aspect of the country1 and on my return found my guide fast asleep on the bench where ,i had left him4 ,he sat bolt upright1 his back supported against the wall1 and his legs pendulous1 within three inches of the ground1 being too short to reach it4 ,i remained gazing upon him for at least five minutes1 whilst he enjoyed slumbers seemingly as quiet and profound as those of death itself4 ,his face brought powerfully to my mind some of those uncouth visages of saints and abbots which are occasionally seen in the niches of the walls of ruined convents4 ,there was not the slightest gleam of vitality in his countenance1 which for colour and rigidity might have been of stone1 and which was as rude and battered as one of the stone heads at ,icolmkill1 which have braved the winds of twelve hundred years4 ,i continued gazing on his face till ,i became almost alarmed1 concluding that life might have departed from its harassed and fatigued tenement4 ,on my shaking him rather roughly by the shoulder he slowly awoke1 opening his eyes with a stare1 and then closing them again4 ,for a few moments he was evidently unconscious of where he was4 ,on my shouting to him1 however1 and inquiring whether he intended to sleep all day1 instead of conducting me to ,finisterre1 he dropped upon his legs1 snatched up his hat1 which lay on the table1 and instantly ran out of the door1 exclaiming1 8,yes1 yes1 ,i remember2 follow me1 captain1 and ,i will lead you to ,finisterre in no time40 ,i looked after him1 and perceived that he was hurrying at a considerable pace in the direction in which we had hitherto been proceeding4 8,stop10 said ,i1 8stop6 will you leave me here with the pony8 ,stop2 we have not paid the reckoning4 ,stop60 ,he1 however1 never turned his head for a moment1 and in less than a minute was out of sight4 ,the pony1 which was tied to a crib at one end of the cabin1 began now to neigh terrifically1 to plunge1 and to erect its tail and mane in a most singular manner4 ,it tore and strained at the halter till ,i was apprehensive that strangulation would ensue4 8,woman10 ,i exclaimed1 8where are you1 and what is the meaning of all this80 ,but the hostess had likewise disappeared1 and though ,i ran about the choza1 shouting myself hoarse1 no answer was returned4 ,the pony still continued to scream and to strain at the halter more violently than ever4 8,am ,i beset with lunatics80 ,i cried1 and flinging down a peseta on the table1 unloosed the halter1 and attempted to introduce the bit into the mouth of the animal4 ,this1 however1 ,i found impossible to effect4 ,released from the halter1 the pony made at once for the door1 in spite of all the efforts which ,i could make to detain it4 8,if you abandon me10 said ,i1 8,i am in a pretty situation2 but there is a remedy for everything60 with which words ,i sprang into the saddle1 and in a moment more the creature was bearing me at a rapid gallop in the direction1 as ,i supposed1 of ,finisterre4 ,my position1 however diverting to the reader1 was rather critical to myself4 ,i was on the back of a spirited animal1 over which ,i had no control1 dashing along a dangerous and unknown path4 ,i could not discover the slightest vestige of my guide1 nor did ,i pass any one from whom ,i could derive any information4 ,indeed1 the speed of the animal was so great1 that even in the event of my meeting or overtaking a passenger1 ,i could scarcely have hoped to exchange a word with him4 8,is the pony trained to this work80 said ,i1 mentally4 8,is he carrying me to some den of banditti1 where my throat will be cut1 or does he follow his master by instinct80 ,both of these suspicions ,i1 however1 soon abandoned4 ,the pony's speed relaxed2 he appeared to have lost the road4 ,he looked about uneasily3 at last1 coming to a sandy spot1 he put his nostrils to the ground1 and then suddenly flung himself down1 and wallowed in true pony fashion4 ,i was not hurt1 and instantly made use of this opportunity to slip the bit into his mouth1 which previously had been dangling beneath his neck2 ,i then remounted in quest of the road4 ,this ,i soon found1 and continued my way for a considerable time4 ,the path lay over a moor1 patched with heath and furze1 and here and there strewn with large stones1 or rather rocks4 ,the sun had risen high in the firmament1 and burned fiercely4 ,i passed several people1 men and women1 who gazed at me with surprise1 wondering1 probably1 what a person of my appearance could be about1 without a guide1 in so strange a place4 ,i inquired of two females whom ,i met whether they had seen my guide2 but they either did not or would not understand me1 and1 exchanging a few words with each other in one of the hundred dialects of the ,gallegan1 passed on4 ,having crossed the moor1 ,i came rather abruptly upon a convent1 overhanging a deep ravine1 at the bottom of which brawled a rapid stream4 ,it was a beautiful and picturesque spot3 the sides of the ravine were thickly clothed with wood1 and on the other side a tall black hill uplifted itself4 ,the edifice was large1 and apparently deserted4 ,passing by it1 ,i presently reached a small village1 as deserted1 to all appearance1 as the convent1 for ,i saw not a single individual1 nor so much as a dog to welcome me with his bark4 ,i proceeded1 however1 until ,i reached a fountain1 the waters of which gushed from a stone pillar into a trough4 ,seated upon this last1 his arms folded1 and his eyes fixed upon the neighbouring mountain1 ,i beheld a figure which still frequently recurs to my thoughts1 especially when asleep and oppressed by the nightmare4 ,this figure was my runaway guide4 ,myself4--,good day to you1 my gentleman4 ,the weather is hot1 and yonder water appears delicious4 ,i am almost tempted to dismount and regale myself with a slight draught4 ,guide4--,your worship can do no better4 ,the day is1 as you say1 hot2 you can do no better than drink a little of this water4 ,i have myself just drunk4 ,i would not1 however1 advise you to give that pony any2 it appears heated and blown4 ,myself4--,it may well be so4 ,i have been galloping at least two leagues in pursuit of a fellow who engaged to guide me to ,finisterre1 but who deserted me in a most singular manner2 so much so1 that ,i almost believe him to be a thief1 and no true man4 ,you do not happen to have seen him8 ,guide4--,what kind of a man might he be8 ,myself4--,a short1 thick fellow1 very much like yourself1 with a hump upon his back1 and1 excuse me1 of a very ill-favoured countenance4 ,guide4--,ha1 ha6 ,i know him4 ,he ran with me to this fountain1 where he has just left me4 ,that man1 ,sir ,cavalier1 is no thief4 ,if he is anything at all1 he is a ,nuveiro #ab--;a fellow who rides upon the clouds1 and is occasionally whisked away by a gust of wind4 ,should you ever travel with that man again1 never allow him more than one glass of anise at a time1 or he will infallibly mount into the clouds and leave you1 and then he will ride and run till he comes to a water-brook1 or knocks his head against a fountain--then one draught1 and he is himself again4 ,so you are going to ,finisterre1 ,sir ,cavalier4 ,now it is singular enough1 that a cavalier much of your appearance engaged me to conduct him there this morning2 ,i1 however1 lost him on the way2 so it appears to me our best plan to travel together until you find your own guide and ,i find my own master4 ,it might be about two o'clock in the afternoon that we reached a long and ruinous bridge1 seemingly of great antiquity1 and which1 as ,i was informed by my guide1 was called the bridge of ,don ,alonzo4 ,it crossed a species of creek1 or rather frith1 for the sea was at no considerable distance1 and the small town of ,noyo lay at our right4 8,when we have crossed that bridge1 captain10 said my guide1 8we shall be in an unknown country1 for ,i have never been farther than ,noyo1 and as for ,finisterre1 so far from having been there1 ,i never heard of such a place2 and though ,i have inquired of two or three people since we have been upon this expedition1 they know as little about it as ,i do4 ,taking all things1 however1 into consideration1 it appears to me that the best thing we can do is to push forward to ,corcuvion1 which is five mad leagues from hence1 and which we may perhaps reach ere nightfall1 if we can find the way or get any one to direct us2 for1 as ,i told you before1 ,i know nothing about it40 8,to fine hands have ,i confided myself10 said ,i3 8however1 we had best1 as you say1 push forward to ,corcuvion1 where1 peradventure1 we may hear something of ,finisterre1 and find a guide to conduct us40 ,whereupon1 with a hop1 skip1 and a jump1 he again set forward at a rapid pace1 stopping occasionally at a choza1 for the purpose1 ,i suppose1 of making inquiries1 though ,i understood scarcely anything of the jargon in which he addressed the people1 and in which they answered him4 ,we were soon in an extremely wild and hilly country1 scrambling up and down ravines1 wading brooks1 and scratching our hands and faces with brambles1 on which grew a plentiful crop of wild mulberries1 to gather some of which we occasionally made a stop4 ,owing to the roughness of the way1 we made no great progress4 ,the pony followed close at the back of the guide1 so near1 indeed1 that its nose almost touched his shoulder4 ,the country grew wilder and wilder1 and1 since we had passed a water-mill1 we had lost all trace of human habitation4 ,the mill stood at the bottom of a valley shaded by large trees1 and its wheels were turning with a dismal and monotonous noise4 8,do you think we shall reach ,corcuvion tonight80 said ,i to the guide1 as we emerged from this valley to a savage moor1 which appeared of almost boundless extent4 ,guide4--,i do not1 ,i do not4 ,we shall in no manner reach ,corcuvion to-night1 and ,i by no means like the appearance of this moor4 ,the sun is rapidly sinking1 and then1 if there come on a haze1 we shall meet the ,estada4 ,myself4--,what do you mean by the ,estada8 ,guide4--,what do ,i mean by the ,estada8 ,my master asks me what ,i mean by the ,estadinha4 #ad ,i have met the ,estadinha but once1 and it was upon a moor something like this4 ,i was in company with several women1 and a thick haze came on1 and suddenly a thousand lights shone above our heads in the haze1 and there was a wild cry1 and the women fell to the ground screaming1 #8,estada6 ,estada6' and ,i myself fell to the ground crying out1 #8,estadinha6' ,the ,estada are the spirits of the dead which ride upon the haze1 bearing candles in their hands4 ,i tell you frankly1 my master1 that if we meet the assembly of the souls1 ,i shall leave you at once1 and then ,i shall run and run till ,i drown myself in the sea1 somewhere about ,muros4 ,we shall not reach ,corcuvion this night2 my only hope is that we may find some choza upon these moors1 where we may hide our heads from the ,estadinha40 ,the night overtook us ere we had traversed the moor2 there was1 however1 no haze1 to the great joy of my guide1 and a corner of the moon partially illumined our steps4 ,our situation1 however1 was dreary enough3 we were upon the wildest heath of the wildest province of ,spain1 ignorant of our way1 and directing our course we scarcely knew whither1 for my guide repeatedly declared to me that he did not believe that such a place as ,finisterre existed1 or if it did exist1 it was some bleak mountain pointed out in a map4 ,when ,i reflected on the character of this guide1 ,i derived but little comfort or encouragement3 he was at best evidently half-witted1 and was by his own confession occasionally seized with paroxysms which differed from madness in no essential respect2 his wild escapade in the morning of nearly three leagues1 without any apparent cause1 and lastly his superstitious and frantic fears of meeting the souls of the dead upon this heath1 in which event he intended1 as he himself said1 to desert me and make for the sea1 operated rather powerfully upon my nerves4 ,i likewise considered that it was quite possible that we might be in the route neither of ,finisterre nor ,corcuvion1 and ,i therefore determined to enter the first cabin at which we should arrive1 in preference to running the risk of breaking our necks by tumbling down some pit or precipice4 ,no cabin1 however1 appeared in sight3 the moor seemed interminable1 and we wandered on until the moon disappeared1 and we were left in almost total darkness4 ,at length we arrived at the foot of a steep ascent1 up which a rough and broken pathway appeared to lead4 8,can this be our way80 said ,i to the guide4 8,there appears to be no other for us1 captain10 replied the man2 8let us ascend it by all means1 and when we are at the top1 if the sea be in the neighbourhood we shall see it40 ,i then dismounted1 for to ride up such a pass in such darkness would have been madness4 ,we clambered up in a line1 first the guide1 next the pony1 with his nose as usual on his master's shoulder1 of whom he seemed passionately fond1 and ,i bringing up the rear1 with my left hand grasping the animal's tail4 ,we had many a stumble1 and more than one fall3 once1 indeed1 we were all rolling down the side of the hill together4 ,in about twenty minutes we reached the summit1 and looked around us1 but no sea was visible3 a black moor1 indistinctly seen1 seemed to spread on every side4 8,we shall have to take up our quarters here till morning10 said ,i4 ,suddenly my guide seized me by the hand4 8,there is lme1 senhor10 said he2 8there is lme40 ,i looked in the direction in which he pointed1 and after straining my eyes for some time1 imagined that ,i perceived1 far below and at some distance1 a faint glow4 8,that is lme10 shouted the guide1 8and it proceeds from the chimney of a choza40 ,on descending the eminence1 we roamed about for a considerable time1 until we at last found ourselves in the midst of about six or eight black huts4 8,knock at the door of one of these10 said ,i to the guide1 8and inquire of the people whether they can shelter us for the night40 ,he did so1 and a man presently made his appearance1 bearing in his hand a lighted firebrand4 8,can you shelter a ,cavalheiro from the night and the ,estada80 said my guide4 8,from both1 ,i thank ,god10 said the man1 who was an athletic figure1 without shoes and stockings1 and who1 upon the whole1 put me much in mind of a ,munster peasant from the bogs4 8,pray enter1 gentlemen1 we can accommodate you both and your cavalgadura besides40 ,we entered the choza1 which consisted of three compartments2 in the first we found straw1 in the second cattle and ponies1 and in the third the family1 consisting of the father and mother of the man who admitted us1 and his wife and children4 8,you are a ,catalan1 sir ,cavalier1 and are going to your countrymen at ,corcuvion10 said the man in tolerable ,spanish4 8,ah1 you are brave people1 you ,catalans1 and fine establishments you have on the ,gallegan shores2 pity that you take all the money out of the country40 ,now1 under all circumstances1 ,i had not the slightest objection to pass for a ,catalan2 and ,i rather rejoiced that these wild people should suppose that ,i had powerful friends and countrymen in the neighbourhood who were1 perhaps1 expecting me4 ,i therefore favoured their mistake1 and began with a harsh ,catalan accent to talk of the fish of ,galicia1 and the high duties on salt4 ,the eye of my guide was upon me for an instant1 with a singular expression1 half serious1 half droll2 he1 however1 said nothing1 but slapped his thigh as usual1 and with a spring nearly touched the roof of the cabin with his grotesque head4 ,upon inquiry1 ,i discovered that we were still two long leagues distant from ,corcuvion1 and that the road lay over moor and hill1 and was hard to find4 ,our host now demanded whether we were hungry1 and1 upon being answered in the affirmative1 produced about a dozen eggs and some bacon4 ,whilst our supper was cooking1 a long conversation ensued between my guide and the family1 but as it was carried on in ,gallegan1 ,i tried in vain to understand it4 ,i believe1 however1 that it principally related to witches and witchcraft1 as the ,estada was frequently mentioned4 ,after supper ,i demanded where ,i could rest3 whereupon the host pointed to a trapdoor in the roof1 saying that above there was a loft where ,i could sleep by myself1 and have clean straw4 ,for curiosity's sake1 ,i asked whether there was such a thing as a bed in the cabin4 8,no10 replied the man2 8nor nearer than ,corcuvion4 ,i never entered one in my life1 nor any one of my family2 we sleep around the hearth1 or among the straw with the cattle40 ,i was too old a traveller to complain1 but forthwith ascended by a ladder into a species of loft1 tolerably large and nearly empty1 where ,i placed my cloak beneath my head1 and lay down on the boards1 which ,i preferred to the straw1 for more reasons than one4 ,i heard the people below talking in ,gallegan for a considerable time1 and could see the gleams of the fire through the interstices of the floor4 ,the voices1 however1 gradually died away1 the fire sank low and could no longer be distinguished4 ,i dozed1 started1 dozed again1 and dropped finally into a profound sleep1 from which ,i was only roused by the crowing of the second cock4 ,,chapter ,,xxx4 ,autumnal ,morning--,the ,world's ,end--,corcuvion--,duyo--,the ,cape--,a ,whale--,the ,outer ,bay--,the ,arrest--,the ,fisher-,magistrate--,calros ,rey--,hard of ,belief--,where is your ,passport8--,the ,beach--,a mighty ,liberal--,the ,handmaid--,the ,grand ,baintham--,eccentric ,book--,hospitality4 ,it was a beautiful autumnal morning when we left the choza and pursued our way to ,corcuvion4 ,i satisfied our host by presenting him with a couple of pesetas1 and he requested as a favour1 that if on our return we passed that way1 and were overtaken by the night1 we would again take up our abode beneath his roof4 ,this ,i promised1 at the same time determining to do my best to guard against the contingency2 as sleeping in the loft of a ,gallegan hut1 though preferable to passing the night on a moor or mountain1 is anything but desirable4 ,so we again started at a rapid pace along rough bridle-ways and footpaths1 amidst furze and brushwood4 ,in about an hour we obtained a view of the sea1 and1 directed by a lad whom we found on the moor employed in tending a few miserable sheep1 we bent our course to the north-west1 and at length reached the brow of an eminence1 where we stopped for some time to survey the prospect before us4 ,it was not without reason that the ,latins gave the name of ,finis terr to this district4 ,we had arrived exactly at such a place as in my boyhood ,i had pictured to myself as the termination of the world1 beyond which there was a wild sea1 or abyss1 or chaos4 ,i now saw far before me an immense ocean1 and below me a long and irregular line of lofty and precipitous coast4 ,certainly in the whole world there is no bolder coast than the ,gallegan shore1 from the debouchement of the ,minho to ,cape ,finisterre4 ,it consists of a granite wall of savage mountains1 for the most part serrated at the top1 and occasionally broken1 where bays and firths like those of ,vigo and ,pontevedra intervene1 running deep into the land4 ,these bays and firths are invariably of an immense depth1 and sufficiently capacious to shelter the navies of the proudest maritime nations4 ,there is an air of stern and savage grandeur in everything around1 which strongly captivates the imagination4 ,this savage coast is the first glimpse of ,spain which the voyager from the north catches1 or he who has ploughed his way across the wide ,atlantic3 and well does it seem to realize all his visions of this strange land4 8,yes10 he exclaims1 8this is indeed ,spain--stern1 flinty ,spain--land emblematic of those spirits to which she has given birth4 ,from what land but that before me could have proceeded those portentous beings who astounded the ,old ,world and filled the ,new with horror and blood4 ,alva and ,philip1 ,cortez and ,pizarro--stern colossal spectres looming through the gloom of bygone years1 like yonder granite mountains through the haze1 upon the eye of the mariner4 ,yes1 yonder is indeed ,spain2 flinty1 indomitable ,spain2 land emblematic of its sons60 ,as for myself1 when ,i viewed that wide ocean and its savage shore1 ,i cried1 8,such is the grave1 and such are its terrific sides2 those moors and wilds1 over which ,i have passed1 are the rough and dreary journey of life4 ,cheered with hope1 we struggle along through all the difficulties of moor1 bog1 and mountain1 to arrive at--what8 ,the grave and its dreary sides4 ,oh1 may hope not desert us in the last hour--hope in the ,redeemer and in ,god60 ,we descended from the eminence1 and again lost sight of the sea amidst ravines and dingles1 amongst which patches of pine were occasionally seen4 ,continuing to descend1 we at last came1 not to the sea1 but to the extremity of a long narrow firth1 where stood a village or hamlet2 whilst at a small distance1 on the western side of the firth1 appeared one considerably larger1 which was indeed almost entitled to the appellation of town4 ,this last was ,corcuvion2 the first1 if ,i forget not1 was called ,ria de ,silla4 ,we hastened on to ,corcuvion1 where ,i bade my guide make inquiries respecting ,finisterre4 ,he entered the door of a wine-house1 from which proceeded much noise and vociferation1 and presently returned1 informing me that the village of ,finisterre was distant about a league and a half4 ,a man1 evidently in a state of intoxication1 followed him to the door4 8,are you bound for ,finisterre1 ,cavalheiros80 he shouted4 8,yes1 my friend10 ,i replied1 8we are going thither40 8,then you are going amongst a fato de borrachos10 #bb he answered4 8,take care that they do not play you a trick40 ,we passed on1 and1 striking across a sandy peninsula at the back of the town1 soon reached the shore of an immense bay1 the north-westernmost end of which was formed by the far-famed cape of ,finisterre1 which we now saw before us stretching far into the sea4 ,along a beach of dazzling white sand we advanced towards the cape1 the bourne of our journey4 ,the sun was shining brightly1 and every object was illumined by his beams4 ,the sea lay before us like a vast mirror1 and the waves which broke upon the shore were so tiny as scarcely to produce a murmur4 ,on we sped along the deep winding bay1 overhung by gigantic hills and mountains4 ,strange recollections began to throng upon my mind4 ,it was upon this beach that1 according to the tradition of all ancient ,christendom1 ,saint ,james1 the patron saint of ,spain1 preached the ,gospel to the heathen ,spaniards4 ,upon this beach had once stood an immense commercial city1 the proudest in all ,spain4 ,this now desolate bay had once resounded with the voices of myriads1 when the keels and commerce of all the then known world were wafted to ,duyo4 #bc 8,what is the name of this village80 said ,i to a woman1 as we passed by five or six ruinous houses at the bend of the bay1 ere we entered upon the peninsula of ,finisterre4 8,this is no village10 said the ,gallegan1 8this is no village1 ,sir ,cavalier2 this is a city1 this is ,duyo40 ,so much for the glory of the world6 ,these huts were all that the roaring sea and the tooth of time had left of ,duyo1 the great city6 ,onward now to ,finisterre4 ,it was mid-day when we reached the village of ,finisterre1 consisting of about one hundred houses1 and built on the southern side of the peninsula1 just before it rises into the huge bluff head which is called the ,cape4 ,we sought in vain for an inn or venta1 where we might stable our beast2 at one moment we thought that we had found one1 and had even tied the animal to the manger4 ,upon our going out1 however1 he was instantly untied and driven forth into the street4 ,the few people whom we saw appeared to gaze upon us in a singular manner4 ,we1 however1 took little notice of these circumstances1 and proceeded along the straggling street until we found shelter in the house of a ,castilian shopkeeper1 whom some chance had brought to this corner of ,galicia--this end of the world4 ,our first care was to feed the animal1 who now began to exhibit considerable symptoms of fatigue4 ,we then requested some refreshment for ourselves2 and in about an hour1 a tolerably savoury fish1 weighing about three pounds1 and fresh from the bay1 was prepared for us by an old woman who appeared to officiate as housekeeper4 ,having finished our meal1 ,i and my uncouth companion went forth1 and prepared to ascend the mountain4 ,we stopped to examine a small dismantled fort or battery facing the bay1 and1 whilst engaged in this examination1 it more than once occurred to me that we were ourselves the objects of scrutiny and investigation2 indeed1 ,i caught a glimpse of more than one countenance peering upon us through the holes and chasms of the walls4 ,we now commenced ascending ,finisterre2 and1 making numerous and long dtours1 we wound our way up its flinty sides4 ,the sun had reached the top of heaven1 whence he showered upon us perpendicularly his brightest and fiercest rays4 ,my boots were torn1 my feet cut1 and the perspiration streamed from my brow4 ,to my guide1 however1 the ascent appeared to be neither toilsome nor difficult4 ,the heat of the day for him had no terrors1 no moisture was wrung from his tanned countenance2 he drew not one short breath2 and hopped upon the stones and rocks with all the provoking agility of a mountain goat4 ,before we had accomplished one-half of the ascent1 ,i felt myself quite exhausted4 ,i reeled and staggered4 8,cheer up1 master mine2 be of good cheer1 and have no care10 said the guide4 8,yonder ,i see a wall of stones2 lie down beneath it in the shade40 ,he put his long and strong arm round my waist1 and1 though his stature compared with mine was that of a dwarf1 he supported me as if ,i had been a child to a rude wall which seemed to traverse the greater part of the hill1 and served probably as a kind of boundary4 ,it was difficult to find a shady spot3 at last he perceived a small chasm1 perhaps scooped by some shepherd as a couch in which to enjoy his siesta4 ,in this he laid me gently down1 and1 taking off his enormous hat1 commenced fanning me with great assiduity4 ,by degrees ,i revived1 and1 after having rested for a considerable time1 ,i again attempted the ascent1 which1 with the assistance of my guide1 ,i at length accomplished4 ,we were now standing at a great altitude between two bays1 the wilderness of waters before us4 ,of all the ten thousand barks which annually plough those seas in sight of that old cape1 not one was to be descried4 ,it was a blue shiny waste1 broken by no object save the black head of a spermaceti whale1 which would occasionally show itself at the top1 casting up thin jets of brine4 ,the principal bay1 that of ,finisterre1 as far as the entrance1 was beautifully variegated by an immense shoal of sardinhas1 on whose extreme skirts the monster was probably feasting4 ,from the other side of the cape we looked down upon a smaller bay1 the shore of which was overhung by rocks of various and grotesque shapes2 this is called the outer bay1 or1 in the language of the country1 ,praia do mar de fora3 #bf a fearful place in seasons of wind and tempest1 when the long swell of the ,atlantic pouring in is broken into surf and foam by the sunken rocks with which it abounds4 ,even on the calmest day there is a rumbling and a hollow roar in that bay which fill the heart with uneasy sensations4 ,on all sides there was grandeur and sublimity4 ,after gazing from the summit of the cape for nearly an hour1 we descended4 ,on reaching the house where we had taken up our temporary habitation1 we perceived that the portal was occupied by several men1 some of whom were reclining on the floor drinking wine out of small earthen pans1 which are much used in this part of ,galicia4 ,with a civil salutation ,i passed on1 and ascended the staircase to the room in which we had taken our repast4 ,here there was a rude and dirty bed1 on which ,i flung myself1 exhausted with fatigue4 ,i determined to take a little repose1 and in the evening to call the people of the place together1 to read a few chapters of the ,scripture1 and then to address them with a little ,christian exhortation4 ,i was soon asleep1 but my slumbers were by no means tranquil4 ,i thought ,i was surrounded with difficulties of various kinds1 amongst rocks and ravines1 vainly endeavouring to extricate myself2 uncouth visages showed themselves amidst the trees and in the hollows1 thrusting out cloven tongues1 and uttering angry cries4 ,i looked around for my guide1 but could not find him2 methought1 however1 that ,i heard his voice down a deep dingle4 ,he appeared to be talking of me4 ,how long ,i might have continued in these wild dreams ,i know not4 ,i was suddenly1 however1 seized roughly by the shoulder1 and nearly dragged from the bed4 ,i looked up in amazement1 and by the light of the descending sun ,i beheld hanging over me a wild and uncouth figure2 it was that of an elderly man1 built as strong as a giant1 with much beard and whisker1 and huge bushy eyebrows1 dressed in the habiliments of a fisherman2 in his hand was a rusty musket4 ,myself4--,who are you1 and what do you want8 ,figure4--,who ,i am matters but little4 ,get up and follow me2 it is you ,i want4 ,myself4--,by what authority do you thus presume to interfere with me8 ,figure4--,by the authority of the justicia of ,finisterre4 ,follow me peaceably1 ,calros1 or it will be the worse for you4 8,calros10 said ,i1 8what does the person mean80 ,i thought it1 however1 most prudent to obey his command1 and followed him down the staircase4 ,the shop and the portal were now thronged with the inhabitants of ,finisterre1 men1 women1 and children2 the latter for the most part in a state of nudity1 and with bodies wet and dripping1 having been probably summoned in haste from their gambols in the brine4 ,through this crowd the figure whom ,i have attempted to describe pushed his way with an air of authority4 ,on arriving in the street1 he laid his heavy hand upon my arm1 not roughly1 however4 8,it is ,calros6 it is ,calros60 said a hundred voices2 8he has come to ,finisterre at last1 and the justicia have now got hold of him40 ,wondering what all this could mean1 ,i attended my strange conductor down the street4 ,as we proceeded1 the crowd increased every moment1 following and vociferating4 ,even the sick were brought to the doors to obtain a view of what was going forward1 and a glance at the redoubtable ,calros4 ,i was particularly struck by the eagerness displayed by one man1 a cripple1 who1 in spite of the entreaties of his wife1 mixed with the crowd1 and having lost his crutch1 hopped forward on one leg1 exclaiming1 8,carracho6 tambien voy yo60 #bh ,we at last reached a house of rather larger size than the rest2 my guide1 having led me into a long low room1 placed me in the middle of the floor1 and then hurrying to the door1 he endeavoured to repulse the crowd who strove to enter with us4 ,this he effected1 though not without considerable difficulty1 being once or twice compelled to have recourse to the butt of his musket to drive back unauthorized intruders4 ,i now looked round the room4 ,it was rather scantily furnished3 ,i could see nothing but some tubs and barrels1 the mast of a boat1 and a sail or two4 ,seated upon the tubs were three or four men coarsely dressed1 like fishermen or shipwrights4 ,the principal personage was a surly ill-tempered looking fellow of about thirty-five1 whom eventually ,i discovered to be the alcalde of ,finisterre1 and lord of the house in which we now were4 ,in a corner ,i caught a glimpse of my guide1 who was evidently in durance1 two stout fishermen standing before him1 one with a musket and the other with a boat-hook4 ,after ,i had looked about me for a minute1 the alcalde1 giving his whiskers a twist1 thus addressed me3-- 8,who are you1 where is your passport1 and what brings you to ,finisterre80 ,myself4--,i am an ,englishman4 ,here is my passport1 and ,i came to see ,finisterre4 ,this reply seemed to discomfit them for a moment4 ,they looked at each other1 then at my passport4 ,at length the alcalde1 striking it with his finger1 bellowed forth3 8,this is no ,spanish passport2 it appears to be written in ,french40 ,myself4--,i have already told you that ,i am a foreigner4 ,i of course carry a foreign passport4 ,alcalde4--,then you mean to assert that you are not ,calros ,rey4 ,myself4--,i never heard before of such a king1 nor indeed of such a name4 ,alcalde4--,hark to the fellow6 he has the audacity to say that he has never heard of ,calros the pretender1 who calls himself king4 ,myself4--,if you mean by ,calros1 the pretender ,don ,carlos1 all ,i can reply is1 that you can scarcely be serious4 ,you might as well assert that yonder poor fellow1 my guide1 whom ,i see you have made prisoner1 is his nephew1 the ,infante ,don ,sebastian4 #bi ,alcalde4--,see1 you have betrayed yourself2 that is the very person we suppose him to be4 ,myself4--,it is true that they are both hunchbacks4 ,but how can ,i be like ,don ,carlos8 ,i have nothing the appearance of a ,spaniard1 and am nearly a foot taller than the pretender4 ,alcalde4--,that makes no difference2 you of course carry many waistcoats about you1 by means of which you disguise yourself1 and appear tall or low according to your pleasure4 ,this last was so conclusive an argument that ,i had of course nothing to reply to it4 ,the alcalde looked around him in triumph1 as if he had made some notable discovery4 8,yes1 it is ,calros2 it is ,calros10 said the crowd at the door4 8,it will be as well to have these men shot instantly10 continued the alcalde2 8if they are not the two pretenders1 they are at any rate two of the factious40 8,i am by no means certain that they are either one or the other10 said a gruff voice4 ,the justicia of ,finisterre turned their eyes in the direction from which these words proceeded1 and so did ,i4 ,our glances rested upon the figure who held watch at the door4 ,he had planted the barrel of his musket on the floor1 and was now leaning his chin against the butt4 8,i am by no means certain that they are either one or the other10 repeated he1 advancing forward4 8,i have been examining this man10 pointing to myself1 8and listening whilst he spoke1 and it appears to me that after all he may prove an ,englishman2 he has their very look and voice4 ,who knows the ,english better than ,antonio de la ,trava1 and who has a better right8 ,has he not sailed in their ships2 has he not eaten their biscuit2 and did he not stand by ,nelson when he was shot dead80 ,here the alcalde became violently incensed4 8,he is no more an ,englishman than yourself10 he exclaimed2 8if he were an ,englishman would he have come in this manner1 skulking across the land8 ,not so1 ,i trow4 ,he would have come in a ship1 recommended to some of us1 or to the ,catalans4 ,he would have come to trade--to buy2 but nobody knows him in ,finisterre1 nor does he know anybody1 and the first thing1 moreover1 that he does when he reaches this place is to inspect the fort1 and to ascend the mountain1 where1 no doubt1 he has been marking out a camp4 ,what brings him to ,finisterre1 if he is neither ,calros nor a bribon of a faccioso80 ,i felt that there was a good deal of justice in some of these remarks1 and ,i was aware1 for the first time1 that ,i had indeed committed a great imprudence in coming to this wild place1 and among these barbarous people1 without being able to assign any motive which could appear at all valid in their eyes4 ,i endeavoured to convince the alcalde that ,i had come across the country for the purpose of making myself acquainted with the many remarkable objects which it contained1 and of obtaining information respecting the character and condition of the inhabitants4 ,he could understand no such motives4 8,what did you ascend the mountain for80 8,to see prospects40 8,disparate6 ,i have lived at ,finisterre forty years1 and never ascended that mountain4 ,i would not do it in a day like this for two ounces of gold4 ,you went to take altitudes1 and to mark out a camp40 ,i had1 however1 a staunch friend in old ,antonio1 who insisted1 from his knowledge of the ,english1 that all ,i said might very possibly be true4 8,the ,english10 said he1 8have more money than they know what to do with1 and on that account they wander all over the world1 paying dearly for what no other people care a groat for40 ,he then proceeded1 notwithstanding the frowns of the alcalde1 to examine me in the ,english language4 ,his own entire knowledge of this tongue was confined to two words--knife and fork1 which words ,i rendered into ,spanish by their equivalents1 and was forthwith pronounced an ,englishman by the old fellow1 who1 brandishing his musket1 exclaimed3-- 8,this man is not ,calros2 he is what he declares himself to be1 an ,englishman1 and whosoever seeks to injure him shall have to do with ,antonio de la ,trava1 el valiente de ,finisterra40 ,no person sought to impugn this verdict1 and it was at length determined that ,i should be sent to ,corcuvion1 to be examined by the alcalde mayor of the district4 8,but10 said the alcalde of ,finisterre1 8what is to be done with the other fellow8 ,he at least is no ,englishman4 ,bring him forward1 and let us hear what he has to say for himself4 ,now1 fellow1 who are you1 and what is your master80 ,guide4--,i am ,sebastianillo1 a poor broken mariner of ,padron1 and my master for the present is the gentleman whom you see1 the most valiant and wealthy of all the ,english4 ,he has two ships at ,vigo laden with riches4 ,i told you so when you first seized me up there in our posada4 ,alcalde4--,where is your passport8 ,guide4--,i have no passport4 ,who would think of bringing a passport to such a place as this1 where ,i don't suppose there are two individuals who can read8 ,i have no passport2 my master's passport of course includes me4 ,alcalde4--,it does not4 ,and since you have no passport1 and have confessed that your name is ,sebastian1 you shall be shot4 ,antonio de la ,trava1 do you and the musketeers lead this ,sebastianillo forth1 and shoot him before the door4 ,antonio de la ,trava4--,with much pleasure1 ,seor ,alcalde1 since you order it4 ,with respect to this fellow1 ,i shall not trouble myself to interfere4 ,he at least is no ,englishman4 ,he has more the look of a wizard or nuveiro2 one of those devils who raise storms and sink launches4 ,moreover1 he says he is from ,padron1 and those of that place are all thieves and drunkards4 ,they once played me a trick1 and ,i would gladly be at the shooting of the whole pueblo4 ,i now interfered1 and said that if they shot the guide they must shoot me too2 expatiating at the same time on the cruelty and barbarity of taking away the life of a poor unfortunate fellow who1 as might be seen at the first glance1 was only half-witted2 adding1 moreover1 that if any person was guilty in this case it was myself1 as the other could only be considered in the light of a servant acting under my orders4 8,the safest plan1 after all10 said the alcalde1 8appears to be to send you both prisoners to ,corcuvion1 where the head alcalde can dispose of you as he thinks proper4 ,you must1 however1 pay for your escort2 for it is not to be supposed that the housekeepers of ,finisterre have nothing else to do than to ramble about the country with every chance fellow who finds his way to this town40 8,as for that matter10 said ,antonio1 8,i will take charge of them both4 ,i am the valiente of ,finisterre1 and fear no two men living4 ,moreover1 ,i am sure that the captain here will make it worth my while1 else he is no ,englishman4 ,therefore let us be quick1 and set out for ,corcuvion at once1 as it is getting late4 ,first of all1 however1 captain1 ,i must search you and your baggage4 ,you have no arms1 of course8 ,but it is best to make all sure40 ,long ere it was dark ,i found myself again on the pony1 in company with my guide1 wending our way along the beach in the direction of ,corcuvion4 ,antonio de la ,trava tramped heavily on before1 his musket on his shoulder4 ,myself4--,are you not afraid1 ,antonio1 to be thus alone with two prisoners1 one of whom is on horseback8 ,if we were to try1 ,i think we could overpower you4 ,antonio de la ,trava4--,i am the valiente de ,finisterra1 and ,i fear no odds4 ,myself4--,why do you call yourself the valiente of ,finisterre8 ,antonio de la ,trava4--,the whole district call me so4 ,when the ,french came to ,finisterre and demolished the fort1 three perished by my hand4 ,i stood on the mountain1 up where ,i saw you scrambling to-day4 ,i continued firing at the enemy1 until three detached themselves in pursuit of me4 ,the fools6 two perished amongst the rocks by the fire of this musket1 and as for the third1 ,i beat his head to pieces with the stock4 ,it is on that account that they call me the valiente of ,finisterre4 ,myself4--,how came you to serve with the ,english fleet8 ,i think ,i heard you say that you were present when ,nelson fell4 ,antonio de la ,trava4--,i was captured by your countrymen1 captain2 and as ,i had been a sailor from my childhood1 they were glad of my services4 ,i was nine months with them1 and assisted at ,trafalgar4 ,i saw the ,english admiral die4 ,you have something of his face1 and your voice1 when you spoke1 sounded in my ears like his own4 ,i love the ,english1 and on that account ,i saved you4 ,think not that ,i would toil along these sands with you if you were one of my own countrymen4 ,here we are at ,duyo1 captain4 ,shall we refresh8 ,we did refresh1 or rather ,antonio de la ,trava refreshed1 swallowing pan after pan of wine1 with a thirst which seemed unquenchable4 8,that man was a greater wizard than myself10 whispered ,sebastian1 my guide1 8who told us that the drunkards of ,finisterre would play us a trick40 ,at length the old hero of the ,cape slowly rose1 saying that we must hasten on to ,corcuvion1 or the night would overtake us by the way4 8,what kind of person is the alcalde to whom you are conducting me80 said ,i4 8,oh1 very different from him of ,finisterre10 replied ,antonio4 8,this is a young ,seorito1 lately arrived from ,madrid4 ,he is not even a ,gallegan4 ,he is a mighty liberal1 and it is owing chiefly to his orders that we have lately been so much on the alert4 ,it is said that the ,carlists are meditating a descent on these parts of ,galicia4 ,let them only come to ,finisterre2 we are liberals there to a man1 and the old valiente is ready to play the same part as in the time of the ,french4 ,but1 as ,i was telling you before1 the alcalde to whom ,i am conducting you is a young man1 and very learned1 and1 if he thinks proper1 he can speak ,english to you1 even better than myself1 notwithstanding ,i was a friend of ,nelson1 and fought by his side at ,trafalgar40 ,it was dark night before we reached ,corcuvion4 ,antonio again stopped to refresh at a wine-shop1 after which he conducted us to the house of the alcalde4 ,his steps were by this time not particularly steady1 and on arriving at the gate of the house1 he stumbled over the threshold and fell4 ,he got up with an oath1 and instantly commenced thundering at the door with the stock of his musket4 8,who is it80 at length demanded a soft female voice in ,gallegan4 8,the valiente of ,finisterre10 replied ,antonio2 whereupon the gate was unlocked1 and we beheld before us a very pretty female with a candle in her hand4 8,what brings you here so late1 ,antonio80 she inquired4 8,i bring two prisoners1 mi pulida10 replied ,antonio4 8,ave ,maria60 she exclaimed4 8,i hope they will do no harm40 8,i will answer for one10 replied the old man2 8but as for the other1 he is a nuveiro1 and has sunk more ships than all his brethren in ,galicia4 ,but be not afraid1 my beauty10 he continued1 as the female made the sign of the cross3 8first lock the gate1 and then show me the way to the alcalde4 ,i have much to tell him40 ,the gate was locked1 and bidding us stay below in the court-yard1 ,antonio followed the young woman up a stone stair1 whilst we remained in darkness below4 ,after the lapse of about a quarter of an hour we again saw the candle gleam upon the staircase1 and the young female appeared4 ,coming up to me1 she advanced the candle to my features1 on which she gazed very intently4 ,after a long scrutiny she went to my guide1 and having surveyed him still more fixedly1 she turned to me1 and said1 in her best ,spanish1 8,seor ,cavalier1 ,i congratulate you on your servant4 ,he is the best-looking mozo in all ,galicia4 ,vaya6 if he had but a coat to his back1 and did not go barefoot1 ,i would accept him at once as a novio2 but ,i have unfortunately made a vow never to marry a poor man1 but only one who has got a heavy purse and can buy me fine clothes4 ,so you are a ,carlist1 ,i suppose8 ,vaya6 ,i do not like you the worse for that4 ,but1 being so1 how went you to ,finisterre1 where they are all ,cristinos and negros8 ,why did you not go to my village8 ,none would have meddled with you there4 ,those of my village are of a different stamp to the drunkards of ,finisterre4 ,those of my village never interfere with honest people4 ,vaya6 how ,i hate that drunkard of ,finisterre who brought you2 he is so old and ugly2 were it not for the love which ,i bear to the ,seor ,alcalde1 ,i would at once unlock the gate and bid you go forth1 you and your servant1 el buen mozo04 #cg ,antonio now descended4 8,follow me10 said he2 8his worship the alcalde will be ready to receive you in a moment40 ,sebastian and myself followed him upstairs to a room1 where1 seated behind a table1 we beheld a young man of low stature1 but handsome features1 and very fashionably dressed4 ,he appeared to be inditing a letter1 which1 when he had concluded1 he delivered to a secretary to be transcribed4 ,he then looked at me for a moment fixedly1 and the following conversation ensued between us3-- ,alcalde4--,i see that you are an ,englishman1 and my friend ,antonio here informs me that you have been arrested at ,finisterre4 ,myself4--,he tells you true2 and but for him ,i believe that ,i should have fallen by the hands of those savage fishermen4 ,alcalde4--,the inhabitants of ,finisterre are brave1 and are all liberals4 ,allow me to look at your passport8 ,yes1 all in form4 ,truly it was very ridiculous that they should have arrested you as a ,carlist4 ,myself4--,not only as a ,carlist1 but as ,don ,carlos himself4 ,alcalde4--,oh6 most ridiculous2 mistake a countryman of the grand ,baintham for such a ,goth6 ,myself4--,excuse me1 sir1 you speak of the grand somebody4 ,alcalde4--,the grand ,baintham4 ,he who has invented laws for all the world4 ,i hope shortly to see them adopted in this unhappy country of ours4 ,myself4--,oh6 you mean ,jeremy ,bentham4 ,yes6 a very remarkable man in his way4 ,alcalde4--,in his way6 in all ways4 ,the most universal genius which the world ever produced3--a ,solon1 a ,plato1 and a ,lope de ,vega4 ,myself4--,i have never read his writings4 ,i have no doubt that he was a ,solon2 and as you say1 a ,plato4 ,i should scarcely have thought1 however1 that he could be ranked as a poet with ,lope de ,vega4 ,alcalde4--,how surprising6 ,i see1 indeed1 that you know nothing of his writings1 though an ,englishman4 ,now1 here am ,i1 a simple alcalde of ,galicia1 yet ,i possess all the writings of ,baintham on that shelf1 and ,i study them day and night4 ,myself4--,you doubtless1 sir1 possess the ,english language4 ,alcalde4--,i do4 ,i mean that part of it which is contained in the writings of ,baintham4 ,i am most truly glad to see a countryman of his in these ,gothic wildernesses4 ,i understand and appreciate your motives for visiting them3 excuse the incivility and rudeness which you have experienced4 ,but we will endeavour to make you reparation4 ,you are this moment free3 but it is late2 ,i must find you a lodging for the night4 ,i know one close by which will just suit you4 ,let us repair thither this moment4 ,stay1 ,i think ,i see a book in your hand4 ,myself4--,the ,new ,testament4 ,alcalde4--,what book is that8 ,myself4--,a portion of the sacred writings1 the ,bible4 ,alcalde4--,why do you carry such a book with you8 ,myself4--,one of my principal motives in visiting ,finisterre was to carry this book to that wild place4 ,alcalde4--,ha1 ha6 how very singular4 ,yes1 ,i remember4 ,i have heard that the ,english highly prize this eccentric book4 ,how very singular that the countrymen of the grand ,baintham should set any value upon that old monkish book6 ,it was now late at night1 and my new friend attended me to the lodging which he had destined for me1 and which was at the house of a respectable old female1 where ,i found a clean and comfortable room4 ,on the way ,i slipped a gratuity into the hand of ,antonio1 and on my arrival1 formally1 and in the presence of the alcalde1 presented him with the ,testament1 which ,i requested he would carry back to ,finisterre1 and keep in remembrance of the ,englishman in whose behalf he had so effectually interposed4 ,antonio4--,i will do so1 your worship1 and when the winds blow from the north-west1 preventing our launches from putting to sea1 ,i will read your present4 ,farewell1 my captain1 and when you next come to ,finisterre1 ,i hope it will be in a valiant ,english bark1 with plenty of contraband on board1 and not across the country on a pony1 in company with nuveiros and men of ,padron4 ,presently arrived the handmaid of the alcalde with a basket1 which she took into the kitchen1 where she prepared an excellent supper for her master's friend4 ,on its being served up the alcalde bade me farewell1 having first demanded whether he could in any way forward my plans4 8,i return to ,saint ,james to-morrow10 ,i replied1 8and ,i sincerely hope that some occasion will occur which will enable me to acquaint the world with the hospitality which ,i have experienced from so accomplished a scholar as the ,alcalde of ,corcuvion40 ,,chapter ,,xxxi4 ,corunna--,crossing the ,bay--,ferrol--,the ,dock-yard--,where are we now8--,greek ,ambassador--,lantern-,light--,the ,ravine--,viveiro--,evening--,marsh and ,quagmire--,fair ,words and ,fair ,money--,the ,leathern ,girth--,eyes of ,lynx--,the ,knavish ,guide4 ,from ,corcuvion ,i returned to ,st4 ,james and ,corunna1 and now began to make preparation for directing my course to the ,asturias4 ,in the first place ,i parted with my ,andalusian horse1 which ,i considered unfit for the long and mountainous journey ,i was about to undertake1 his constitution having become much debilitated from his ,gallegan travels4 ,owing to horses being exceedingly scarce at ,corunna1 ,i had no difficulty in disposing of him at a far higher price than he originally cost me4 ,a young and wealthy merchant of ,corunna1 who was a national guardsman1 became enamoured of his glossy skin and long mane and tail4 ,for my own part1 ,i was glad to part with him for more reasons than one2 he was both vicious and savage1 and was continually getting me into scrapes in the stables of the posadas where we slept or baited4 ,an old ,castilian peasant1 whose pony he had maltreated1 once said to me1 8,sir ,cavalier1 if you have any love or respect for yourself1 get rid1 ,i beseech you1 of that beast1 who is capable of proving the ruin of a kingdom40 ,so ,i left him behind at ,corunna1 where ,i subsequently learned that he became glandered and died4 ,peace to his memory6 ,from ,corunna ,i crossed the bay to ,ferrol1 whilst ,antonio with our remaining horse followed by land1 a rather toilsome and circuitous journey1 although the distance by water is scarcely three leagues4 ,i was very sea-sick during the passage1 and lay almost senseless at the bottom of the small launch in which ,i had embarked1 and which was crowded with people4 ,the wind was adverse1 and the water rough4 ,we could make no sail1 but were impelled along by the oars of five or six stout mariners1 who sang all the while ,gallegan ditties4 ,suddenly the sea appeared to have become quite smooth1 and my sickness at once deserted me4 ,i rose upon my feet and looked around4 ,we were in one of the strangest places imaginable4 ,a long and narrow passage overhung on either side by a stupendous barrier of black and threatening rocks4 ,the line of the coast was here divided by a natural cleft1 yet so straight and regular that it seemed not the work of chance but design4 ,the water was dark and sullen1 and of immense depth4 ,this passage1 which is about a mile in length1 is the entrance to a broad basin1 at whose farther extremity stands the town of ,ferrol4 ,sadness came upon me as soon as ,i entered this place4 ,grass was growing in the streets1 and misery and distress stared me in the face on every side4 ,ferrol is the grand naval arsenal of ,spain1 and has shared in the ruin of the once splendid ,spanish navy3 it is no longer thronged with those thousand shipwrights who prepared for sea the tremendous three-deckers and long frigates1 the greater part of which were destroyed at ,trafalgar4 ,only a few ill-paid and half-starved workmen still linger about1 scarcely sufficient to repair any guarda costa #dc;a which may put in dismantled by the fire of some ,english smuggling schooner from ,gibraltar4 ,half the inhabitants of ,ferrol #dc;b beg their bread2 and amongst these1 as it is said1 are not unfrequently found retired naval officers1 many of them maimed or otherwise wounded1 who are left to pine in indigence3 their pensions or salaries having been allowed to run three or four years in arrear1 owing to the exigencies of the times4 ,a crowd of importunate beggars followed me to the posada1 and even attempted to penetrate to the apartment to which ,i was conducted4 8,who are you80 said ,i to a woman who flung herself at my feet1 and who bore in her countenance evident marks of former gentility4 8,a widow1 sir10 she replied1 in very good ,french2 8a widow of a brave officer1 once admiral of this port40 ,the misery and degradation of modern ,spain are nowhere so strikingly manifested as at ,ferrol4 ,yet even here there is still much to admire4 ,notwithstanding its present state of desolation1 it contains some good streets1 and abounds with handsome houses4 ,the alameda is planted with nearly a thousand elms1 of which almost all are magnificent trees1 and the poor ,ferrolese1 with the genuine spirit of localism so prevalent in ,spain1 boast that their town contains a better public walk than ,madrid1 of whose prado1 when they compare the two1 they speak in terms of unmitigated contempt4 ,at one end of this alameda stands the church1 the only one in ,ferrol4 ,to this church ,i repaired the day after my arrival1 which was ,sunday4 ,i found it quite insufficient to contain the number of worshippers who1 chiefly from the country1 not only crowded the interior1 but1 bareheaded1 were upon their knees before the door to a considerable distance down the walk4 ,parallel with the alameda extends the wall of the naval arsenal and dock4 ,i spent several hours in walking about these places1 to visit which it is necessary to procure a written permission from the captain-general of ,ferrol4 ,they filled me with astonishment4 ,i have seen the royal dock-yards of ,russia and ,england1 but1 for grandeur of design and costliness of execution1 they cannot for a moment compare with these wonderful monuments of the bygone naval pomp of ,spain4 ,i shall not attempt to describe them1 but content myself with observing that the oblong basin1 which is surrounded with a granite mole1 is capacious enough to permit a hundred first-rates to lie conveniently in ordinary3 but instead of such a force1 ,i saw only a sixty-gun frigate and two brigs lying in this basin2 and to this inconsiderable number of vessels is the present war marine of ,spain reduced4 ,i waited for the arrival of ,antonio two or three days at ,ferrol1 and still he came not3 late one evening1 however1 as ,i was looking down the street1 ,i perceived him advancing1 leading our only horse by the bridle4 ,he informed me that1 at about three leagues from ,corunna1 the heat of the weather and the flies had so distressed the animal that it had fallen down in a kind of fit1 from which it had been only relieved by copious bleeding1 on which account he had been compelled to halt for a day upon the road4 ,the horse was evidently in a very feeble state2 and had a strange rattling in its throat1 which alarmed me at first4 ,i1 however1 administered some remedies1 and in a few days deemed him sufficiently recovered to proceed4 ,we accordingly started from ,ferrol1 having first hired a pony for myself1 and a guide who was to attend us as far as ,rivadeo1 #de twenty leagues from ,ferrol1 and on the confines of the ,asturias4 ,the day at first was fine1 but ere we reached ,novales1 a distance of three leagues1 the sky became overcast1 and a mist descended1 accompanied by a drizzling rain4 ,the country through which we passed was very picturesque4 ,at about two in the afternoon we could descry through the mist the small fishing-town of ,santa ,marta on our left1 with its beautiful bay4 ,travelling along the summit of a line of hills1 we presently entered a chestnut forest1 which appeared to be without limit3 the rain still descended1 and kept up a ceaseless pattering among the broad green leaves4 8,this is the commencement of the autumnal rains10 said the guide4 8,many is the wetting that you will get1 my masters1 before you reach ,oviedo40 8,have you ever been as far as ,oviedo80 ,i demanded4 8,no10 he replied1 8and once only to ,rivadeo1 the place to which ,i am now conducting you1 and ,i tell you frankly that we shall soon be in wildernesses where the way is hard to find1 especially at night1 and amidst rain and waters4 ,i wish ,i were fairly back to ,ferrol1 for ,i like not this route1 which is the worst in ,galicia1 in more respects than one2 but where my master's pony goes1 there must ,i go too2 such is the life of us guides40 ,i shrugged my shoulders at this intelligence1 which was by no means cheering1 but made no answer4 ,at length1 about nightfall1 we emerged from the forest1 and presently descended into a deep valley at the foot of lofty hills4 8,where are we now80 ,i demanded of the guide1 as we crossed a rude bridge at the bottom of the valley1 down which a rivulet swollen by the rain foamed and roared4 8,in the valley of ,coisa ,doiro10 #df he replied2 8and it is my advice that we stay here for the night and do not venture among those hills1 through which lies the path to ,viveiro2 for as soon as we get there1 adios6 ,i shall be bewildered1 which will prove the destruction of us all40 8,is there a village nigh80 8,yes1 the village is right before us1 and we shall be there in a moment40 ,we soon reached the village1 which stood amongst some tall trees at the entrance of a pass which led up amongst the hills4 ,antonio dismounted1 and entered two or three of the cabins1 but presently came to me1 saying1 8,we cannot stay here1 mon matre1 without being devoured by vermin2 we had better be amongst the hills than in this place4 ,there is neither fire nor light in these cabins1 and the rain is streaming through the roofs40 ,the guide1 however1 refused to proceed4 8,i could scarcely find my way amongst those hills by daylight10 he cried surlily1 8much less at night1 'midst storm and bretima40 ,we procured some wine and maize bread from one of the cottages4 ,whilst we were partaking of these1 ,antonio said1 8,mon matre1 the best thing we can do in our present situation is to hire some fellow of this village to conduct us through the hills to ,viveiro4 ,there are no beds in this place1 and if we lie down in the litter in our damp clothes we shall catch a tertian of ,galicia4 #dg ,our present guide is of no service2 we must therefore find another to do his duty40 ,without waiting for a reply1 he flung down the crust of broa which he was munching and disappeared4 ,i subsequently learned that he went to the cottage of the alcalde1 and demanded1 in the queen's name1 a guide for the ,greek ambassador1 who was benighted on his way to the ,asturias4 ,in about ten minutes ,i again saw him1 attended by the local functionary1 who1 to my surprise1 made me a profound bow1 and stood bare-headed in the rain4 8,his excellency10 shouted ,antonio1 8is in need of a guide to ,viveiro4 ,people of our description are not compelled to pay for any service which they may require2 however1 as his excellency has bowels of compassion1 he is willing to give three pesetas to any competent person who will accompany him to ,viveiro1 and as much bread and wine as he can eat and drink on his arrival40 8,his excellency shall be served10 said the alcalde2 8however1 as the way is long and the path is bad1 and there is much bretima amongst the hills1 it appears to me that1 besides the bread and wine1 his excellency can do no less than offer four pesetas to the guide who may be willing to accompany him to ,viveiro2 and ,i know no one better than my own son-in-law1 ,juanito40 8,content1 ,seor ,alcalde10 ,i replied2 8produce the guide1 and the extra peseta shall be forthcoming in due season40 ,soon appeared ,juanito with a lantern in his hand4 ,we instantly set forward4 ,the two guides began conversing in ,gallegan4 8,mon matre10 said ,antonio1 8this new scoundrel is asking the old one what he thinks we have got in our portmanteaus40 ,then1 without awaiting my answer1 he shouted1 8,pistols1 ye barbarians6 ,pistols1 as you shall learn to your cost1 if you do not cease speaking in that gibberish and converse in ,castilian40 ,the ,gallegans were silent1 and presently the first guide dropped behind1 whilst the other with the lantern moved before4 8,keep in the rear10 said ,antonio to the former1 8and at a distance3 know one thing1 moreover1 that ,i can see behind as well as before4 ,mon matre10 said he to me1 8,i don't suppose these fellows will attempt to do us any harm1 more especially as they do not know each other2 it is well1 however1 to separate them1 for this is a time and place which might tempt any one to commit robbery and murder too40 ,the rain still continued to fall uninterruptedly1 the path was rugged and precipitous1 and the night was so dark that we could only see indistinctly the hills which surrounded us4 ,once or twice our guide seemed to have lost his way3 he stopped1 muttered to himself1 raised his lantern on high1 and would then walk slowly and hesitatingly forward4 ,in this manner we proceeded for three or four hours1 when ,i asked the guide how far we were from ,viveiro4 8,i do not know exactly where we are1 your worship10 he replied1 8though ,i believe we are in the route4 ,we can scarcely1 however1 be less than two mad leagues from ,viveiro40 8,then we shall not arrive there before morning10 interrupted ,antonio1 8for a mad league of ,galicia means at least two of ,castile2 and perhaps we are doomed never to arrive there1 if the way thither leads down this precipice40 ,as he spoke1 the guide seemed to descend into the bowels of the earth4 8,stop10 said ,i2 8where are you going80 8,to ,viveiro1 ,senhor10 replied the fellow3 8this is the way to ,viveiro2 there is no other4 ,i now know where we are40 ,the light of the lantern shone upon the dark red features of the guide1 who had turned round to reply1 as he stood some yards down the side of a dingle or ravine overgrown with thick trees1 beneath whose leafy branches a frightfully steep path descended4 ,i dismounted from the pony1 and delivering the bridle to the other guide1 said1 8,here is your master's horse2 if you please you may lead him down that abyss1 but as for myself ,i wash my hands of the matter40 ,the fellow1 without a word of reply1 vaulted into the saddle1 and with a vamos1 ,perico6 #di to the pony1 impelled the creature to the descent4 8,come1 ,senhor10 said he with the lantern1 8there is no time to be lost2 my light will be presently extinguished1 and this is the worst bit in the whole road40 ,i thought it very probable that he was about to lead us to some den of cut-throats1 where we might be sacrificed2 but1 taking courage1 ,i seized our own horse by the bridle1 and followed the fellow down the ravine amidst rocks and brambles4 ,the descent lasted nearly ten minutes1 and ere we had entirely accomplished it1 the light in the lantern went out1 and we remained in nearly total darkness4 ,encouraged1 however1 by the guide1 who assured us there was no danger1 we at length reached the bottom of the ravine2 here we encountered a rill of water1 through which we were compelled to wade as high as the knee4 ,in the midst of the water ,i looked up and caught a glimpse of the heavens through the branches of the trees1 which all around clothed the shelving sides of the ravine1 and completely embowered the channel of the stream3 to a place more strange and replete with gloom and horror no benighted traveller ever found his way4 ,after a short pause we commenced scaling the opposite bank1 which we did not find so steep as the other1 and a few minutes' exertion brought us to the top4 ,shortly afterwards the rain abated1 and the moon arising1 cast a dim light through the watery mists4 ,the way had become less precipitous1 and in about two hours we descended to the shore of an extensive creek1 along which we proceeded till we reached a spot where many boats and barges lay with their keels upward upon the sand4 ,presently we beheld before us the walls of ,viveiro1 upon which the moon was shedding its sickly lustre4 ,we entered by a lofty and seemingly ruinous archway1 and the guide conducted us at once to the posada4 ,every person in ,viveiro appeared to be buried in profound slumber2 not so much as a dog saluted us with his bark4 ,after much knocking we were admitted into the posada1 a large and dilapidated edifice4 ,we had scarcely housed ourselves and horses when the rain began to fall with yet more violence than before1 attended with much thunder and lightning4 ,antonio and ,i1 exhausted with fatigue1 betook ourselves to flock beds in a ruinous chamber1 into which the rain penetrated through many a cranny1 whilst the guides ate bread and drank wine till the morning4 ,when ,i arose ,i was gladdened by the sight of a fine day4 ,antonio forthwith prepared a savoury breakfast of stewed fowl1 of which we stood in much need after the ten-league journey of the preceding day over the ways which ,i have attempted to describe4 ,i then walked out to view the town1 which consists of little more than one long street1 on the side of a steep mountain thickly clad with forest and fruit-trees4 ,at about ten we continued our journey1 accompanied by our first guide1 the other having returned to ,coisa ,doiro some hours previously4 ,our route throughout this day was almost constantly within sight of the shores of the ,cantabrian sea1 whose windings we followed4 ,the country was barren1 and in many parts covered with huge stones3 cultivated spots1 however1 were to be seen1 where vines were growing4 ,we met with but few human habitations4 ,we1 however1 journeyed on cheerfully1 for the sun was once more shining in full brightness1 gilding the wild moors1 and shining upon the waters of the distant sea1 which lay in unruffled calmness4 ,at evening fall we were in the neighbourhood of the shore1 with a range of wood-covered hills on our right4 ,our guide led us towards a creek bordered by a marsh1 but he soon stopped1 and declared that he did not know whither he was conducting us4 8,mon matre10 said ,antonio1 8let us be our own guides2 it is1 as you see1 of no use to depend upon this fellow1 whose whole science consists in leading people into quagmires40 ,we therefore turned aside1 and proceeded along the marsh for a considerable distance1 till we reached a narrow path which led us into a thick wood1 where we soon became completely bewildered4 ,on a sudden1 after wandering about a considerable time1 we heard the noise of water1 and presently the clack of a wheel4 ,following the sound1 we arrived at a low stone mill1 built over a brook2 here we stopped and shouted1 but no answer was returned4 8,the place is deserted10 said ,antonio2 8here1 however1 is a path1 which1 if we follow it1 will doubtless lead us to some human habitation4 ,so we went along the path1 which1 in about ten minutes1 brought us to the door of a cabin1 in which we saw lights4 ,antonio dismounted and opened the door3 8,is there any one here who can conduct us to ,rivadeo80 he demanded4 8,senhor10 answered a voice1 8,rivadeo is more than five leagues from here1 and1 moreover1 there is a river to cross40 8,then to the next village10 continued ,antonio4 8,i am a vecino of the next village1 which is on the way to ,rivadeo10 said another voice1 8and ,i will lead you thither1 if you will give me fair words1 and1 what is better1 fair money40 ,a man now came forth1 holding in his hand a large stick4 ,he strode sturdily before us1 and in less than half an hour led us out of the wood4 ,in another half-hour he brought us to a group of cabins situated near the sea2 he pointed to one of these1 and having received a peseta1 bade us farewell4 ,the people of the cottage willingly consented to receive us for the night2 it was much more cleanly and commodious than the wretched huts of the ,gallegan peasantry in general4 ,the ground floor consisted of a keeping room and stable1 whilst above was a long loft1 in which were some neat and comfortable flock beds4 ,i observed several masts and sails of boats4 ,the family consisted of two brothers1 with their wives and families4 ,one was a fisherman2 but the other1 who appeared to be the principal person1 informed me that he had resided for many years in service at ,madrid1 and1 having amassed a small sum1 he had at length returned to his native village1 where he had purchased some land1 which he farmed4 ,all the family used the ,castilian language in their common discourse1 and on inquiry ,i learned that the ,gallegan was not much spoken in that neighbourhood4 ,i have forgotten the name of this village1 which is situated on the estuary of the ,foz1 which rolls down from ,mondonedo4 ,in the morning we crossed this estuary in a large boat1 with our horses1 and about noon arrived at ,rivadeo4 8,now1 your worship10 said the guide1 who had accompanied us from ,ferrol1 8,i have brought you as far as ,i bargained1 and a hard journey it has been3 ,i therefore hope you will suffer ,perico and myself to remain here to-night at your expense1 and to-morrow we will go back2 at present we are both sorely tired40 8,i never mounted a better pony than ,perico10 said ,i1 8and never met with a worse guide than yourself4 ,you appear to be perfectly ignorant of the country1 and have done nothing but bring us into difficulties4 ,you may1 however1 stay here for the night1 as you say you are tired1 and to-morrow you may return to ,ferrol1 where ,i counsel you to adopt some other trade40 ,this was said at the door of the posada of ,rivadeo4 8,shall ,i lead the horses to a stable80 said the fellow4 8,as you please10 said ,i4 ,antonio looked after him for a moment1 as he was leading the animals away1 and then1 shaking his head1 followed slowly after4 ,in about a quarter of an hour he returned1 laden with the furniture of our own horse1 and with a smile upon his countenance4 8,mon matre10 said he1 8,i have throughout the journey had a bad opinion of this fellow1 and now ,i have detected him3 his motive in requesting permission to stay was a desire to purloin something from us4 ,he was very officious in the stable about our horse1 and ,i now miss the new leathern girth which secured the saddle1 and which ,i observed him looking at frequently on the road4 ,he has by this time doubtless hid it somewhere2 we are quite secure of him1 however1 for he has not yet received the hire for the pony1 nor the gratuity for himself40 ,the guide returned just as he had concluded speaking4 ,dishonesty is always suspicious4 ,the fellow cast a glance upon us1 and probably beholding in our countenances something which he did not like1 he suddenly said1 8,give me the horse-hire and my own propina1 for ,perico and ,i wish to be off instantly40 8,how is this80 said ,i2 8,i thought you and ,perico were both fatigued1 and wished to rest here for the night3 you have soon recovered from your weariness40 8,i have thought over the matter10 said the fellow1 8and my master will be angry if ,i loiter here3 pay up1 therefore1 and let us go40 8,certainly10 said ,i1 8if you wish it4 ,is the horse furniture all right80 8,quite so10 said he2 8,i delivered it all to your servant40 8,it is all here10 said ,antonio1 8with the exception of the leathern girth40 8,i have not got it10 said the guide4 8,of course not10 said ,i4 8,let us proceed to the stable2 we shall perhaps find it there40 ,to the stable we went1 which we searched through3 no girth1 however1 was forthcoming4 8,he has got it buckled round his middle beneath his pantaloons1 mon matre10 said ,antonio1 whose eyes were moving about like those of a lynx2 8,i saw the protuberance as he stooped down4 ,however1 let us take no notice3 he is here surrounded by his countrymen1 who1 if we were to seize him1 might perhaps take his part4 ,as ,i said before1 he is in our power1 as we have not paid him40 ,the fellow now began to talk in ,gallegan to the bystanders 7several persons having collected71 wishing the ,denho to take him if he knew anything of the missing property4 ,nobody1 however1 seemed inclined to take his part2 and those who listened only shrugged their shoulders4 ,we returned to the portal of the posada1 the fellow following us1 clamouring for the horse-hire and propina4 ,we made him no answer1 and at length he went away1 threatening to apply to the justicia2 in about ten minutes1 however1 he came running back with the girth in his hand4 8,i have just found it10 said he1 8in the street3 your servant dropped it40 ,i took the leather and proceeded very deliberately to count out the sum to which the horse-hire amounted1 and having delivered it to him in the presence of witnesses1 ,i said1 8,during the whole journey you have been of no service to us whatever2 nevertheless1 you have fared like ourselves1 and have had all you could desire to eat and drink4 ,i intended1 on your leaving us1 to present you1 moreover1 with a propina of two dollars2 but since1 notwithstanding our kind treatment1 you endeavoured to pillage us1 ,i will not give you a cuarto3 go1 therefore1 about your business40 ,all the audience expressed their satisfaction at this sentence1 and told him that he had been rightly-served1 and that he was a disgrace to ,galicia4 ,two or three women crossed themselves1 and asked him if he was not afraid that the ,denho1 whom he had invoked1 would take him away4 ,at last1 a respectable-looking man said to him1 8,are you not ashamed to have attempted to rob two innocent strangers80 8,strangers60 roared the fellow1 who was by this time foaming with rage1 8innocent strangers1 carracho6 they know more of ,spain and ,galicia1 too1 than the whole of us4 ,oh1 ,denho1 that servant is no man1 but a wizard1 a nuveiro4--,where is ,perico80 ,he mounted ,perico1 and proceeded forthwith to another posada4 ,the tale1 however1 of his dishonesty had gone before him1 and no person would house him2 whereupon he returned on his steps1 and seeing me looking out of the window of the house1 he gave a savage shout1 and shaking his fist at me1 galloped out of the town1 the people pursuing him with hootings and revilings4 ,,chapter ,,xxxii4 ,martin of ,rivadeo--,the ,factious ,mare--,asturians--,luarca--,the ,seven ,bellotas--,hermits--,the ,asturian's ,tale--,strange ,guests--,the ,big ,servant--,batuschca4 8,what may your business be80 said ,i to a short1 thick1 merry-faced fellow in a velveteen jerkin and canvas pantaloons1 who made his way into my apartment in the dusk of the evening4 8,i am ,martin of ,rivadeo1 your worship10 replied the man1 8an alquilador by profession4 ,i am told that you want a horse for your journey into the ,asturias to-morrow1 and of course a guide3 now1 if that be the case1 ,i counsel you to hire myself and mare40 8,i am become tired of guides10 ,i replied2 8so much so that ,i was thinking of purchasing a pony1 and proceeding without any guide at all4 ,the last which we had was an infamous character40 8,so ,i have been told1 your worship1 and it was well for the bribon that ,i was not in ,rivadeo when the affair to which you allude occurred4 ,but he was gone with the pony ,perico before ,i came back1 or ,i would have bled the fellow to a certainty with my knife4 ,he is a disgrace to the profession1 which is one of the most honourable and ancient in the world4 ,perico himself must have been ashamed of him1 for ,perico1 though a pony1 is a gentleman1 one of many capacities1 and well known upon the roads4 ,he is only inferior to my mare40 8,are you well acquainted with the road to ,oviedo80 ,i demanded4 8,i am not1 your worship2 that is1 no farther than ,luarca1 #eh;a which is the first day's journey4 ,i do not wish to deceive you1 therefore let me go with you no farther than that place2 though perhaps ,i might serve for the whole journey1 for though ,i am unacquainted with the country1 ,i have a tongue in my head1 and nimble feet to run and ask questions4 ,i will1 however1 answer for myself no farther than ,luarca1 where you can please yourselves4 ,your being strangers is what makes me wish to accompany you1 for ,i like the conversation of strangers1 from whom ,i am sure to gain information both entertaining and profitable4 ,i wish1 moreover1 to convince you that we guides of ,galicia are not all thieves1 which ,i am sure you will not suppose if you only permit me to accompany you as far as ,luarca40 ,i was so much struck with the fellow's good humour and frankness1 and more especially by the originality of character displayed in almost every sentence which he uttered1 that ,i readily engaged him to guide us to ,luarca2 whereupon he left me1 promising to be ready with his mare at eight next morning4 ,rivadeo is one of the principal seaports of ,galicia1 and is admirably situated for commerce1 on a deep firth1 into which the river ,mirando #eh;b debouches4 ,it contains many magnificent buildings1 and an extensive square or plaza1 which is planted with trees4 ,i observed several vessels in the harbour2 and the population1 which is rather numerous1 exhibited none of those marks of misery and dejection which ,i had lately observed among the ,ferrolese4 ,on the morrow ,martin of ,rivadeo made his appearance at the appointed hour with his mare4 ,it was a lean haggard animal1 not much larger than a pony2 it had good points1 however1 and was very clean in its hinder legs1 and ,martin insisted that it was the best animal of its kind in all ,spain4 8,it is a factious mare10 said he1 8and ,i believe an ,alavese4 ,when the ,carlists came here it fell lame1 and they left it behind1 and ,i purchased it for a dollar4 ,it is not lame now1 however1 as you shall soon see40 ,we had now reached the firth which divides ,galicia from the ,asturias4 ,a kind of barge was lying about two yards from the side of the quay1 waiting to take us over4 ,towards this ,martin led his mare1 and giving an encouraging shout1 the creature without any hesitation sprang over the intervening space into the barge4 8,i told you she was a facciosa10 said ,martin2 8none but a factious animal would have taken such a leap40 ,we all embarked in the barge and crossed over the firth1 which is in this place nearly a mile broad1 to ,castro ,pol1 #ei the first town in the ,asturias4 ,i now mounted the factious mare1 whilst ,antonio followed on my own horse4 ,martin led the way1 exchanging jests with every person whom he met on the road1 and occasionally enlivening the way with an extemporaneous song4 ,we were now in the ,asturias1 and about noon we reached ,navias1 a small fishing-town1 situate on a ria or firth3 in the neighbourhood are ragged mountains called the ,sierra de ,buron1 which stand in the shape of a semicircle4 ,we saw a small vessel in the harbour1 which we subsequently learned was from the ,basque provinces1 come for a cargo of cider or sagadua1 the beverage so dearly loved by the ,basques4 ,as we passed along the narrow street1 ,antonio was hailed with an 8,ola60 from a species of shop in which three men1 apparently shoemakers1 were seated4 ,he stopped for some time to converse with them1 and when he joined us at the posada where we halted1 ,i asked him who they were3 8,mon matre10 said he1 8ce sont des messieurs de ma connoissance4 ,i have been fellow-servant at different times with all three2 and ,i tell you beforehand1 that we shall scarcely pass through a village in this country where ,i shall not find an acquaintance4 ,all the ,asturians1 at some period of their lives1 make a journey to ,madrid1 where1 if they can obtain a situation1 they remain until they have scraped up sufficient to turn to advantage in their own country2 and as ,i have served in all the great houses in ,madrid1 ,i am acquainted with the greatest part of them4 ,i have nothing to say against the ,asturians1 save that they are close and penurious whilst at service2 but they are not thieves1 neither at home nor abroad1 and though we must have our wits about us in their country1 ,i have heard we may travel from one end of it to the other without the slightest fear of being either robbed or ill-treated1 which is not the case in ,galicia1 where we were always in danger of having our throats cut40 ,leaving ,navias1 we proceeded through a wild desolate country1 till we reached the pass of ,baralla1 which lies up the side of a huge wall of rocks1 which at a distance appear of a light green colour1 though perfectly bare of herbage or plants of any description4 8,this pass10 said ,martin of ,rivadeo1 8bears a very evil reputation1 and ,i should not like to travel it after sunset4 ,it is not infested by robbers1 but by things much worse1 the duendes of two friars of ,saint ,francis4 ,it is said that in the old time1 long before the convents were suppressed1 two friars of the order of ,saint ,francis left their convent to beg4 ,it chanced that they were very successful1 but as they were returning at nightfall by this pass1 they had a quarrel about what they had collected1 each insisting that he had done his duty better than the other2 at last1 from high words they fell to abuse1 and from abuse to blows4 ,what do you think these demons of friars did8 ,they took off their cloaks1 and at the end of each they made a knot1 in which they placed a large stone1 and with these they thrashed and belaboured each other till both fell dead4 ,master1 ,i know not which are the worst plagues1 friars1 curates1 or sparrows3 #8,may the ,lord ,god preserve us from evil birds three3 ,from all friars and curates and sparrows that be2 ,for the sparrows eat up all the corn that we sow1 ,the friars drink down all the wine that we grow1 ,whilst the curates have all the fair dames at their nod3 ,from these three evil curses preserve us1 ,lord ,god4'0 ,in about two hours from this time we reached ,luarca1 the situation of which is most singular4 ,it stands in a deep hollow1 whose sides are so precipitous that it is impossible to descry the town until you stand just above it4 ,at the northern extremity of this hollow is a small harbour1 the sea entering by a narrow cleft4 ,we found a large and comfortable posada1 and by the advice of ,martin1 made inquiry for a fresh guide and horse2 we were informed1 however1 that all the horses of the place were absent1 and that if we waited for their return1 we must tarry for two days4 8,i had a presentiment10 said ,martin1 8when we entered ,luarca1 that we were not doomed to part at present4 ,you must now hire my mare and me as far as ,gijon1 #fb;a from whence there is a conveyance to ,oviedo4 ,to tell you the truth1 ,i am by no means sorry that the guides are absent1 for ,i am pleased with your company1 as ,i make no doubt you are with mine4 ,i will now go and write a letter to my wife at ,rivadeo1 informing her that she must not expect to see me back for several days40 ,he then went out of the room1 singing the following stanza3-- 8,a handless man a letter did write1 ,a dumb dictated it word for word3 ,the person who read it had lost his sight1 ,and deaf was he who listened and heard40 #fb;b ,early the next morning we emerged from the hollow of ,luarca2 about an hour's riding brought us to ,caneiro1 a deep and romantic valley of rocks1 shaded by tall chestnut trees4 ,through the midst of this valley rushes a rapid stream1 which we crossed in a boat4 8,there is not such a stream for trout in all the ,asturias10 said the ferryman4 8,look down into the waters and observe the large stones over which it flows2 now in the proper season1 and in fine weather1 you cannot see those stones for the multitudes of fish which cover them40 ,leaving the valley behind us1 we entered into a wild and dreary country1 stony and mountainous4 ,the day was dull and gloomy1 and all around looked sad and melancholy4 8,are we in the way for ,gijon and ,oviedo80 demanded ,martin of an ancient female1 who stood at the door of a cottage4 8,for ,gijon and ,oviedo60 replied the crone2 8many is the weary step you will have to make before you reach ,gijon and ,oviedo4 ,you must first of all crack the bellotas3 you are just below them40 8,what does she mean by cracking the bellotas80 demanded ,i of ,martin of ,rivadeo4 8,did your worship never hear of the seven bellotas80 replied our guide4 8,i can scarcely tell you what they are1 as ,i have never seen them2 ,i believe they are seven hills which we have to cross1 and are called bellotas from some resemblance to acorns which it is fancied they bear4 ,i have often heard of these acorns1 and am not sorry that ,i have now an opportunity of seeing them1 though it is said that they are rather hard things for horses to digest40 ,the ,asturian mountains in this part rise to a considerable altitude4 ,they consist for the most part of dark granite1 covered here and there with a thin layer of earth4 ,they approach very near to the sea1 to which they slope down in broken ridges1 between which are deep and precipitous defiles1 each with its rivulet1 the tribute of the hills to the salt flood4 ,the road traverses these defiles4 ,there are seven of them1 which are called1 in the language of the country1 ,las siete bellotas4 ,of all these the most terrible is the midmost1 down which rolls an impetuous torrent4 ,at the upper end of it rises a precipitous wall of rock1 black as soot1 to the height of several hundred yards2 its top1 as we passed1 was enveloped with a veil of bretima4 ,from this gorge branch off1 on either side1 small dingles or glens1 some of them so overgrown with trees and copsewood1 that the eye is unable to penetrate the obscurity beyond a few yards4 8,fine places would some of these dingles prove for hermitages10 said ,i to ,martin of ,rivadeo4 8,holy men might lead a happy life there on roots and water1 and pass many years absorbed in heavenly contemplation without ever being disturbed by the noise and turmoil of the world40 8,true1 your worship10 replied ,martin2 8and perhaps on that very account there are no hermitages in the barrancos of the seven bellotas4 ,our hermits had little inclination for roots and water1 and had no kind of objection to be occasionally disturbed in their meditations4 ,vaya6 ,i never yet saw a hermitage that was not hard by some rich town or village1 or was not a regular resort for all the idle people in the neighbourhood4 ,hermits are not fond of living in dingles1 amongst wolves and foxes2 for how in that case could they dispose of their poultry8 ,a hermit of my acquaintance left1 when he died1 a fortune of seven hundred dollars to his niece1 the greatest part of which he scraped up by fattening turkeys40 ,at the top of this bellota we found a wretched venta1 where we refreshed ourselves1 and then continued our journey4 ,late in the afternoon we cleared the last of these difficult passes4 ,the wind began now to rise1 bearing on its wings a drizzling rain4 ,we passed by ,soto ,luino1 and shaping our course through a wild but picturesque country1 we found ourselves about nightfall at the foot of a steep hill1 up which led a narrow bridle-way1 amidst a grove of lofty trees4 ,long before we had reached the top it had become quite dark1 and the rain had increased considerably4 ,we stumbled along in the obscurity1 leading our horses1 which were occasionally down on their knees1 owing to the slipperiness of the path4 ,at last we accomplished the ascent in safety1 and pushing briskly forward1 we found ourselves in about half an hour at the entrance of ,muros1 a large village situated just on the declivity of the farther side of the hill4 ,a blazing fire in the posada soon dried our wet garments1 and in some degree recompensed us for the fatigues which we had undergone in scrambling up the bellotas4 ,a rather singular place was this same posada of ,muros4 ,it was a large rambling house1 with a spacious kitchen1 or common room1 on the ground floor4 ,above stairs was a large dining apartment1 with an immense oak table1 and furnished with cumbrous leathern chairs with high backs1 apparently three centuries old at least4 ,communicating with this apartment was a wooden gallery1 open to the air1 which led to a small chamber1 in which ,i was destined to sleep1 and which contained an old-fashioned tester-bed with curtains4 ,it was just one of those inns which romance writers are so fond of introducing in their descriptions1 especially when the scene of adventure lies in ,spain4 ,the host was a talkative ,asturian4 ,the wind still howled1 and the rain descended in torrents4 ,i sat before the fire in a very drowsy state1 from which ,i was presently aroused by the conversation of the host4 8,seor10 said he1 8it is now three years since ,i beheld foreigners in my house4 ,i remember it was about this time of the year1 and just such a night as this1 that two men on horseback arrived here4 ,what was singular1 they came without any guide4 ,two more strange-looking individuals ,i never yet beheld with eye-sight4 ,i shall never forget them4 ,the one was as tall as a giant1 with much tawny moustache1 like the coat of a badger1 growing about his mouth4 ,he had a huge ruddy face1 and looked dull and stupid1 as he no doubt was1 for when ,i spoke to him he did not seem to understand1 and answered in a jabber1 valgame ,dios6 #ff so wild and strange1 that ,i remained staring at him with mouth and eyes open4 ,the other was neither tall nor red-faced1 nor had he hair about his mouth1 and indeed he had very little upon his head4 ,he was very diminutive1 and looked like a jorobado2 but1 valgame ,dios6 such eyes1 like wild cats'1 so sharp and full of malice4 ,he spoke as good ,spanish as ,i myself do1 and yet he was no ,spaniard4 ,spaniard never looked like that man4 ,he was dressed in a zamarra1 with much silver and embroidery1 and wore an ,andalusian hat1 and ,i soon found that he was master1 and that the other was servant4 8,valgame ,dios6 what an evil disposition had that same foreign jorobado6 and yet he had much grace1 much humour1 and said occasionally to me such comical things1 that ,i was fit to die of laughter4 ,so he sat down to supper in the room above1 and ,i may as well tell you here1 that he slept in the same chamber where your worship will sleep to-night1 and his servant waited behind his chair4 ,well1 ,i had curiosity1 so ,i sat myself down at the table too1 without asking leave4 ,why should ,i8 ,i was in my own house1 and an ,asturian is fit company for a king1 and is often of better blood4 ,oh1 what a strange supper was that4 ,if the servant made the slightest mistake in helping him1 up would start the jorobado1 jump upon his chair1 and seizing the big giant by the hair1 would cuff him on both sides of his face till ,i was afraid his teeth would have fallen out4 ,the giant1 however1 did not seem to care about it much4 ,he was used to it1 ,i suppose4 ,valgame ,dios6 if he had been a ,spaniard he would not have submitted to it so patiently4 ,but what surprised me most was1 that after beating his servant the master would sit down1 and the next moment would begin conversing and laughing with him as if nothing had happened1 and the giant also would laugh and converse with his master1 for all the world as if he had not been beaten4 8,you may well suppose1 ,seor1 that ,i understood nothing of their discourse1 for it was all in that strange unchristian tongue in which the giant answered me when ,i spoke to him2 the sound of it is still ringing in my ears4 ,it was nothing like other languages4 ,not like ,bascuen1 #fg not like the language in which your worship speaks to my namesake ,signor ,antonio here4 ,valgame ,dios6 ,i can compare it to nothing but the sound a person makes when he rinses his mouth with water4 ,there is one word which ,i think ,i still remember1 for it was continually proceeding from the giant's lips1 but his master never used it4 8,but the strangest part of the story is yet to be told4 ,the supper was ended1 and the night was rather advanced2 the rain still beat against the windows1 even as it does at this moment4 ,suddenly the jorobado pulled out his watch4 ,valgame ,dios6 such a watch6 ,i will tell you one thing1 ,seor1 that ,i could purchase all the ,asturias1 and ,muros besides1 with the brilliants which shone about the sides of that same watch2 the room wanted no lamp1 ,i trow1 so great was the splendour which they cast4 ,so the jorobado looked at his watch1 and then said to me1 #8,i shall go to rest4' ,he then took the lamp1 and went through the gallery to his room1 followed by his big servant4 ,well1 ,seor1 ,i cleared away the things1 and then waited below for the servant1 for whom ,i had prepared a comfortable bed1 close by my own4 ,seor1 ,i waited patiently for an hour1 till at last my patience was exhausted1 and ,i ascended to the supper apartment1 and passed through the gallery till ,i came to the door of the strange guest4 ,seor1 what do you think ,i saw at the door80 8,how should ,i know80 ,i replied4 8,his riding-boots1 perhaps40 8,no1 ,seor1 ,i did not see his riding-boots2 but1 stretched on the floor with his head against the door1 so that it was impossible to open it without disturbing him1 lay the big servant fast asleep1 his immense legs reaching nearly the whole length of the gallery4 ,i crossed myself1 as well ,i might1 for the wind was howling even as it is now1 and the rain was rushing down into the gallery in torrents2 yet there lay the big servant fast asleep1 without any covering1 without any pillow1 not even a log1 stretched out before his master's door4 8,seor1 ,i got little rest that night1 for ,i said to myself1 ,i have evil wizards in my house1 folks who are not human4 ,once or twice ,i went up and peeped into the gallery1 but there still lay the big servant fast asleep2 so ,i crossed myself1 and returned to my bed again40 8,well10 said ,i1 8and what occurred next day80 8,nothing particular occurred next day3 the jorobado came down and said comical things to me in good ,spanish2 and the big servant came down1 but whatever he said1 and he did not say much1 ,i understood not1 for it was in that disastrous jabber4 ,they stayed with me throughout the day till after supper-time1 and then the jorobado gave me a gold ounce1 and mounting their horses1 they both departed as strangely as they had come1 in the dark night1 ,i know not whither40 8,is that all80 ,i demanded4 8,no1 ,seor1 it is not all2 for ,i was right in supposing them evil brujos3 the very next day an express arrived1 and a great search was made after them1 and ,i was arrested for having harboured them4 ,this occurred just after the present wars had commenced4 ,it was said they were spies and emissaries of ,i don't know what nation1 and that they had been in all parts of the ,asturias1 holding conferences with some of the disaffected4 ,they escaped1 however1 and were never heard of more1 though the animals which they rode were found without their riders1 wandering amongst the hills2 they were common ponies1 and were of no value4 ,as for the brujos1 it is believed that they embarked in some small vessel which was lying concealed in one of the rias of the coast40 ,myself4--,what was the word which you continually heard proceeding from the lips of the big servant1 and which you think you can remember8 ,host4--,seor1 it is now three years since ,i heard it1 and at times ,i can remember it1 and at others not2 sometimes ,i have started up in my sleep repeating it4 ,stay1 ,seor1 ,i have it now at the point of my tongue3 it was ,patusca4 ,myself4--,batuschca1 you mean2 the men were ,russians4 ,,chapter ,,xxxiii4 ,oviedo--,the ,ten ,gentlemen--,the ,swiss again--,modest ,request--,the ,robbers--,episcopal ,benevolence--,the ,cathedral--,portrait of ,feijoo4 ,i must now take a considerable stride in my journey1 no less than from ,muros to ,oviedo1 contenting myself with observing1 that we proceeded from ,muros to ,velez1 #gj and from thence to ,gijon1 where our guide ,martin bade us farewell1 and returned with his mare to ,rivadeo4 ,the honest fellow did not part without many expressions of regret2 indeed he even expressed a desire that ,i should take him and his mare into my service4 8,for10 said he1 8,i have a great desire to run through all ,spain1 and even the world3 and ,i am sure ,i shall never have a better opportunity than by attaching myself to your worship's skirts40 ,on my reminding him1 however1 of his wife and family1 for he had both1 he said1 8,true1 true1 ,i had forgotten them3 happy the guide whose only wife and family are a mare and foal40 ,oviedo is about three leagues from ,gijon4 ,antonio rode the horse1 whilst ,i proceeded thither in a kind of diligence which runs daily between the two towns4 ,the road is good1 but mountainous4 ,i arrived safely at the capital of the ,asturias1 although at a rather unpropitious season1 for the din of war was at the gate1 and there was the cry of the captains and the shouting4 #ga ,castile1 at the time of which ,i am writing1 was in the hands of the ,carlists1 who had captured and plundered ,valladolid in much the same manner as they had ,segovia some time before4 ,they were every day expected to march on ,oviedo1 in which case they might perhaps have experienced some resistance1 a considerable body of troops being stationed there1 who had erected some redoubts1 and strongly fortified several of the convents1 especially that of ,santa ,clara de la ,vega4 ,all minds were in a state of feverish anxiety and suspense1 more especially as no intelligence arrived from ,madrid1 which by the last accounts was said to be occupied by the bands of ,cabrera and ,palillos4 ,so it came to pass that one night ,i found myself in the ancient town of ,oviedo1 in a very large1 scantily furnished1 and remote room in an ancient posada1 formerly a palace of the counts of ,santa ,cruz4 ,it was past ten1 and the rain was descending in torrents4 ,i was writing1 but suddenly ceased on hearing numerous footsteps ascending the creaking stairs which led to my apartment4 ,the door was flung open1 and in walked nine men of tall stature1 marshalled by a little hunchbacked personage4 ,they were all muffled in the long cloaks of ,spain1 but ,i instantly knew by their demeanour that they were caballeros1 or gentlemen4 ,they placed themselves in a rank before the table where ,i was sitting4 ,suddenly and simultaneously they all flung back their cloaks1 and ,i perceived that every one bore a book in his hand2 a book which ,i knew full well4 ,after a pause1 which ,i was unable to break1 for ,i sat lost in astonishment1 and almost conceived myself to be visited by apparitions1 the hunchback1 advancing somewhat before the rest1 said in soft silvery tones1 8,seor ,cavalier1 was it you who brought this book to the ,asturias80 ,i now supposed that they were the civil authorities of the place come to take me into custody1 and1 rising from my seat1 ,i exclaimed1 8,it certainly was ,i1 and it is my glory to have done so4 ,the book is the ,new ,testament of ,god3 ,i wish it was in my power to bring a million40 8,i heartily wish so too10 said the little personage with a sigh4 8,be under no apprehension1 ,sir ,cavalier2 these gentlemen are my friends4 ,we have just purchased these books in the shop where you placed them for sale1 and have taken the liberty of calling upon you1 in order to return you our thanks for the treasure you have brought us4 ,i hope you can furnish us with the ,old ,testament also40 ,i replied1 that ,i was sorry to inform him that at present it was entirely out of my power to comply with his wish1 as ,i had no ,old ,testaments in my possession1 but did not despair of procuring some speedily from ,england4 ,he then asked me a great many questions concerning my biblical travels in ,spain1 and my success1 and the views entertained by the ,society with respect to ,spain1 adding1 that he hoped we should pay particular attention to the ,asturias1 which he assured me was the best ground in the ,peninsula for our labour4 ,after about half an hour's conversation1 he suddenly said1 in the ,english language1 8,good night1 sir10 wrapped his cloak around him1 and walked out as he had come4 ,his companions1 who had hitherto not uttered a word1 all repeated1 8,good night1 sir10 and1 adjusting their cloaks1 followed him4 ,in order to explain this strange scene1 ,i must state1 that in the morning ,i had visited the petty bookseller of the place1 ,longoria1 and having arranged preliminaries with him1 ,i sent him in the evening a package of forty ,testaments1 all ,i possessed1 with some advertisements4 ,at the time he assured me that1 though he was willing to undertake the sale1 there was1 nevertheless1 not a prospect of success1 as a whole month had elapsed since he had sold a book of any description1 on account of the uncertainty of the times1 and the poverty which pervaded the land2 ,i therefore felt much dispirited4 ,this incident1 however1 admonished me not to be cast down when things look gloomiest1 as the hand of the ,lord is generally then most busy3 that men may learn to perceive1 that whatever good is accomplished is not their work1 but ,his4 ,two or three days after this adventure1 ,i was once more seated in my large scantily-furnished room2 it was about ten1 of a dark melancholy morning1 and the autumnal rain was again falling4 ,i had just breakfasted1 and was about to sit down to my journal1 when the door was flung open and in bounded ,antonio4 8,mon matre10 said he1 quite breathless1 8who do you think has arrived80 8,the ,pretender1 ,i suppose10 said ,i1 in some trepidation2 8if so1 we are prisoners40 8,bah1 bah60 said ,antonio1 8it is not the ,pretender1 but one worth twenty of him2 it is the ,swiss of ,saint ,james40 8,benedict ,mol1 the ,swiss60 said ,i4 8,what6 has he found the treasure8 ,but how did he come8 ,how is he dressed80 8,mon matre10 said ,antonio1 8he came on foot1 if we may judge by his shoes1 through which his toes are sticking2 and as for his dress1 he is in most villanous apparel40 8,there must be some mystery in this10 said ,i4 8,where is he at present80 8,below1 mon matre10 replied ,antonio2 8he came in quest of us4 ,but ,i no sooner saw him1 than ,i hurried away to let you know40 ,in a few minutes ,benedict ,mol found his way upstairs4 ,he was1 as ,antonio had remarked1 in most villanous apparel1 and nearly barefooted2 his old ,andalusian hat was dripping with rain4 8,och1 lieber ,herr10 said ,benedict1 8how rejoiced ,i am to see you again6 ,oh1 the sight of your countenance almost repays me for all the miseries ,i have undergone since ,i parted with you at ,saint ,james40 ,myself4--,i can scarcely believe that ,i really see you here at ,oviedo4 ,what motive can have induced you to come to such an out-of-the-way place from such an immense distance8 ,benedict4--,lieber ,herr1 ,i will sit down and tell you all that has befallen me4 ,some few days after ,i saw you last1 the canonigo persuaded me to go to the captain-general to apply for permission to disinter the ,schatz1 and also to crave assistance4 ,so ,i saw the captain-general1 who at first received me very kindly1 asked me several questions1 and told me to come again4 ,so ,i continued visiting him till he would see me no longer1 and1 do what ,i might1 ,i could not obtain a glance of him4 ,the canon now became impatient1 more especially as he had given me a few pesetas out of the charities of the church4 ,he frequently called me a bribon and impostor4 ,at last1 one morning ,i went to him1 and said that ,i proposed to return to ,madrid1 in order to lay the matter before the government1 and requested that he would give me a certificate to the effect that ,i had performed a pilgrimage to ,saint ,james1 which ,i imagined would be of assistance to me upon the way1 as it would enable me to beg with some colour of authority4 ,he no sooner heard this request1 than1 without saying a word or allowing me a moment to put myself on my defence1 he sprang upon me like a tiger1 clasping my throat so hard that ,i thought he would have strangled me4 ,i am a ,swiss1 however1 and a man of ,lucerne1 and when ,i had recovered myself a little1 ,i had no difficulty in flinging him off2 ,i then threatened him with my staff and went away4 ,he followed me to the gate with the most horrid curses1 saying1 that if ,i presumed to return again1 he would have me thrown at once into prison as a thief and a heretic4 ,so ,i went in quest of yourself1 lieber ,herr1 but they told me that you were departed for ,corunna2 ,i then set out for ,corunna after you4 ,myself4--,and what befell you on the road8 ,benedict4--,i will tell you3 about half-way between ,saint ,james and ,corunna1 as ,i was walking along1 thinking of the ,schatz1 ,i heard a loud galloping1 and looking around me ,i saw two men on horseback coming across the field with the swiftness of the wind1 and making directly for me4 8,lieber ,gott10 said ,i1 8these are thieves1 these are factious20 and so they were4 ,they came up to me in a moment and bade me stand2 so ,i flung down my staff1 took off my hat1 and saluted them4 8,good day1 caballeros10 said ,i to them4 8,good day1 countryman10 said they to me1 and then we stood staring at each other for more than a minute4 ,lieber ,himmel1 #ge ,i never saw such robbers2 so finely dressed1 so well armed1 and mounted so bravely on two fiery little hakkas1 #gf that looked as if they could have taken wing and flown up into the clouds6 ,so we continued staring at each other1 till at last one asked me who ,i was1 whence ,i came1 and where ,i was going4 8,gentlemen10 said ,i1 8,i am a ,swiss2 ,i have been to ,saint ,james to perform a religious vow1 and am now returning to my own country40 ,i said not a word about the treasure1 for ,i was afraid that they would have shot me at once1 conceiving that ,i carried part of it about me4 8,have you any money80 they demanded4 8,gentlemen10 ,i replied1 8you see how ,i travel on foot1 with my shoes torn to pieces2 ,i should not do so if ,i had money4 ,i will not deceive you1 however2 ,i have a peseta and a few cuartos20 and thereupon ,i took out what ,i had and offered it to them4 8,fellow10 said they1 8we are caballeros of ,galicia1 and do not take pesetas1 much less cuartos4 ,of what opinion are you8 ,are you for the queen80 8,no1 gentlemen10 said ,i1 8,i am not for the queen2 but1 at the same time1 allow me to tell you that ,i am not for the king either4 ,i know nothing about the matter2 ,i am a ,swiss1 and fight neither for nor against anybody unless ,i am paid40 ,this made them laugh1 and then they questioned me about ,saint ,james1 and the troops there1 and the captain-general2 and not to disoblige them1 ,i told them all ,i knew1 and much more4 ,then one of them1 who looked the fiercest and most determined1 took his trombone in his hand1 and pointing it at me1 said1 8,had you been a ,spaniard1 we should have blown your head to shivers1 for we should have thought you a spy2 but we see you are a foreigner1 and believe what you have said4 ,take1 therefore1 this peseta and go your way2 but beware that you tell nobody anything about us1 for if you do1 carracho60 ,he then discharged his trombone just over my head1 so that for a moment ,i thought myself shot2 and then with an awful shout1 they both galloped away1 their horses leaping over the barrancos1 as if possessed with many devils4 ,myself4--,and what happened to you on your arrival at ,corunna8 ,benedict4--,when ,i arrived at ,corunna1 ,i inquired after yourself1 lieber ,herr1 and they informed me that1 only the day before my arrival1 you had departed for ,oviedo3 and when ,i heard that1 my heart died within me1 for ,i was now at the far end of ,galicia1 without a friend to help me4 ,for a day or two ,i knew not what to do2 at last ,i determined to make for the frontier of ,france1 passing through ,oviedo in the way1 where ,i hoped to see you1 and ask counsel of you4 ,so ,i begged and bettled among the ,germans of ,corunna4 ,i1 however1 got very little from them1 only a few cuarts1 less than the thieves had given me on the road from ,saint ,james1 and with these ,i departed for the ,asturias by the way of ,mondonedo4 ,och1 what a town is that1 full of canons1 priests1 and pfaffen1 all of them more ,carlist than ,carlos himself4 ,one day ,i went to the bishop's palace and spoke to him1 telling him ,i was a pilgrim from ,saint ,james1 and requesting assistance4 ,he told me1 however1 that he could not relieve me1 and as for my being a pilgrim from ,saint ,james1 he was glad of it1 and hoped that it would be of service to my soul4 ,so ,i left ,mondonedo1 and got amongst the wild mountains1 begging and bettling at the door of every choza that ,i passed2 telling all ,i saw that ,i was a pilgrim from ,saint ,james1 and showing my passport in proof that ,i had been there4 ,lieber ,herr1 no person gave me a cuart1 nor even a piece of broa1 and both ,gallegans and ,asturians laughed at ,saint ,james1 and told me that his name was no longer a passport in ,spain4 ,i should have starved if ,i had not sometimes plucked an ear or two out of the maize fields2 ,i likewise gathered grapes from the parras and berries from the brambles1 and in this manner ,i subsisted till ,i arrived at the bellotas1 where ,i slaughtered a stray kid which ,i met1 and devoured part of the flesh raw1 so great was my hunger4 ,it made me1 however1 very ill2 and for two days ,i lay in a barranco half dead and unable to help myself2 it was a mercy that ,i was not devoured by the wolves4 ,i then struck across the country for ,oviedo3 how ,i reached it ,i do not know2 ,i was like one walking in a dream4 ,last night ,i slept in an empty hog-sty about two leagues from here1 and ere ,i left it1 ,i fell down on my knees and prayed to ,god that ,i might find you1 lieber ,herr1 for you were my last hope4 ,myself4--,and what do you propose to do at present8 ,benedict4--,what can ,i say1 lieber ,herr8 ,i know not what to do4 ,i will be guided in everything by your counsel4 ,myself4--,i shall remain at ,oviedo a few days longer1 during which time you can lodge at this posada1 and endeavour to recover from the fatigue of your disastrous journeys2 perhaps before ,i depart1 we may hit on some plan to extricate you from your present difficulties4 ,oviedo contains about fifteen thousand inhabitants4 ,it is picturesquely situated between two mountains1 ,morcin and ,naranco2 the former is very high and rugged1 and during the greater part of the year is covered with snow2 the sides of the latter are cultivated and planted with vines4 ,the principal ornament of the town is the cathedral1 #gi;a the tower of which is exceedingly lofty1 and is perhaps one of the purest specimens of ,gothic architecture at present in existence4 ,the interior of the cathedral is neat and appropriate1 but simple and unadorned4 ,i observed but one picture1 the ,conversion of ,saint ,paul4 ,one of the chapels is a cemetery1 in which rest the bones of eleven ,gothic kings2 to whose souls be peace4 ,i bore a letter of recommendation from ,corunna to a merchant of ,oviedo4 ,this person received me very courteously1 and generally devoted some portion of every day to showing me the remarkable things of ,oviedo4 ,one morning he thus addressed me3 8,you have doubtless heard of ,feijoo1 #gi;b the celebrated philosophic monk of the order of ,saint ,benedict1 whose writings have so much tended to remove the popular fallacies and superstitions so long cherished in ,spain2 he is buried in one of our convents1 where he passed a considerable portion of his life4 ,come with me and ,i will show you his portrait4 ,carlos ,tercero1 #hj our great king1 sent his own painter from ,madrid to execute it4 ,it is now in the possession of a friend of mine1 ,don ,ramon ,valdez1 an advocate40 ,thereupon he led me to the house of ,don ,ramon ,valdez1 who very politely exhibited the portrait of ,feijoo4 ,it was circular in shape1 about a foot in diameter1 and was surrounded by a little brass frame1 something like the rim of a barber's basin4 ,the countenance was large and massive1 but fine1 the eyebrows knit1 the eyes sharp and penetrating1 nose aquiline4 ,on the head was a silken skull-cap2 the collar of the coat or vest was just perceptible4 ,the painting was decidedly good1 and struck me as being one of the very best specimens of modern ,spanish art which ,i had hitherto seen4 ,a day or two after this ,i said to ,benedict ,mol1 8,to-morrow ,i start from hence for ,santander4 ,it is therefore high time that you decide upon some course1 whether to return to ,madrid or to make the best of your way to ,france1 and from thence proceed to your own country40 8,lieber ,herr10 said ,benedict1 8,i will follow you to ,santander by short journeys1 for ,i am unable to make long ones amongst these hills2 and when ,i am there1 peradventure ,i may find some means of passing into ,france4 ,it is a great comfort1 in my horrible journeys1 to think that ,i am travelling over the ground which yourself have trodden1 and to hope that ,i am proceeding to rejoin you once more4 ,this hope kept me alive in the bellotas1 and without it ,i should never have reached ,oviedo4 ,i will quit ,spain as soon as possible1 and betake me to ,lucerne1 though it is a hard thing to leave the ,schatz behind me in the land of the ,gallegans40 ,thereupon ,i presented him with a few dollars4 8,a strange man is this ,benedict10 said ,antonio to me next morning1 as1 accompanied by a guide1 we sallied forth from ,oviedo2 8a strange man1 mon matre1 is this same ,benedict4 ,a strange life has he led1 and a strange death he will die1--it is written on his countenance4 ,that he will leave ,spain ,i do not believe1 or if he leave it1 it will be only to return1 for he is bewitched about this treasure4 ,last night he sent for a sorcire whom he consulted in my presence3 and she told him that he was doomed to possess it1 but that first of all he must cross water4 ,she cautioned him likewise against an enemy1 which he supposes must be the canon of ,saint ,james4 ,i have often heard people speak of the avidity of the ,swiss for money1 and here is a proof of it4 ,i would not undergo what ,benedict has suffered in these last journeys of his to possess all the treasures in ,spain40 ,,chapter ,,xxxiv4 ,departure from ,oviedo--,villa ,viciosa--,the ,young ,man of the ,inn--,antonio's ,tale--,the ,general and his ,family--,woful ,tidings--,to-morrow we die--,san ,vicente--,santander--,an ,harangue--,flinter the ,irishman4 ,so we left ,oviedo and directed our course towards ,santander4 ,the man who accompanied us as guide1 and from whom ,i hired the pony on which ,i rode1 had been recommended to me by my friend the merchant of ,oviedo4 ,he proved1 however1 a lazy1 indolent fellow2 he was generally loitering two or three hundred yards in our rear1 and instead of enlivening the way with song and tale1 like our late guide1 ,martin of ,rivadeo1 he scarcely ever opened his lips1 save to tell us not to go so fast1 or that ,i should burst his pony if ,i spurred him so4 ,he was thievish withal1 and though he had engaged to make the journey seco1 #hb that is1 to defray the charges of himself and beast1 he contrived throughout to keep both at our expense4 ,when journeying in ,spain1 it is invariably the cheapest plan to agree to maintain the guide and his horse or mule1 for by so doing the hire is diminished at least one-third1 and the bills upon the road are seldom increased2 whereas1 in the other case1 he pockets the difference1 and yet goes shot free1 and at the expense of the traveller1 through the connivance of the innkeepers1 who have a kind of fellow-feeling with the guides4 ,late in the afternoon we reached ,villa ,viciosa1 a small dirty town1 at the distance of eight leagues from ,oviedo3 it stands beside a creek which communicates with the ,bay of ,biscay4 ,it is sometimes called ,la ,capital de las ,avellanas1 or the ,capital of the ,filberts1 from the immense quantity of this fruit which is grown in the neighbourhood2 and the greatest part of which is exported to ,england4 ,as we drew nigh we overtook numerous carts laden with avellanas proceeding in the direction of the town4 ,i was informed that several small ,english vessels were lying in the harbour4 ,singular as it may seem1 however1 notwithstanding we were in the ,capital of the ,avellanas1 it was with the utmost difficulty that ,i procured a scanty handful for my dessert1 and of these more than one-half were decayed4 ,the people of the house informed me that the nuts were intended for exportation1 and that they never dreamt either of partaking of them themselves or of offering them to their guests4 ,at an early hour on the following day we reached ,colunga1 a beautiful village on a rising ground1 thickly planted with chestnut trees4 ,it is celebrated1 at least in the ,asturias1 as being the birthplace of ,argulles1 the father of the ,spanish constitution4 ,as we dismounted at the door of the posada1 where we intended to refresh ourselves1 a person who was leaning out of an upper window uttered an exclamation and disappeared4 ,we were yet at the door1 when the same individual came running forth and cast himself on the neck of ,antonio4 ,he was a good-looking young man1 apparently about five-and-twenty1 genteelly dressed1 with a montero cap on his head4 ,antonio looked at him for a moment1 and then with an 8,ah1 ,monsieur1 est ce bien vous80 shook him affectionately by the hand4 ,the stranger then motioned him to follow him1 and they forthwith proceeded to the room above4 ,wondering what this could mean1 ,i sat down to my morning repast4 ,nearly an hour elapsed1 and still ,antonio did not make his appearance4 ,through the boards1 however1 which composed the ceiling of the kitchen where ,i sat1 ,i could hear the voices of himself and his acquaintance1 and thought that ,i could occasionally distinguish the sound of broken sobs and groans4 ,at last there was a long pause4 ,i became impatient1 and was about to summon ,antonio1 when he made his appearance1 but unaccompanied by the stranger4 8,what1 in the name of all that is singular10 ,i demanded1 8have you been about8 ,who is that man80 8,mon matre10 said ,antonio1 8c'est un monsieur de ma connaissance4 ,with your permission ,i will now take a mouthful1 and as we journey along ,i will tell you all that ,i know of him40 8,monsieur10 said ,antonio1 as we rode out of ,colunga1 8you are anxious to know the history of the gentleman whom you saw embrace me at the inn4 ,know1 mon matre1 that these ,carlist and ,cristino wars have been the cause of much misery and misfortune in this country2 but a being so thoroughly unfortunate as that poor young gentleman of the inn1 ,i do not believe is to be found in ,spain1 and his misfortunes proceed entirely from the spirit of party and faction which for some time past has been so prevalent4 8,mon matre1 as ,i have often told you1 ,i have lived in many houses and served many masters1 and it chanced that about ten years ago ,i served the father of this gentleman1 who was then a mere boy4 ,it was a very high family1 for monsieur the father was a general in the army1 and a man of large possessions4 ,the family consisted of the general1 his lady1 and two sons2 the youngest of whom is the person you have just seen1 the other was several years older4 ,pardieu6 ,i felt myself very comfortable in that house1 and every individual of the family had all kind of complaisance for me4 ,it is singular enough1 that though ,i have been turned out of so many families1 ,i was never turned out of that2 and though ,i left it thrice1 it was of my own free will4 ,i became dissatisfied with the other servants1 or with the dog or the cat4 ,the last time ,i left was on account of the quail which was hung out of the window of madame1 and which waked me in the morning with its call4 ,eh bien1 mon matre1 things went on in this way during the three years that ,i continued in the family1 out and in2 at the end of which time it was determined that the young gentleman should travel1 and it was proposed that ,i should attend him as valet4 ,this ,i wished very much to do4 ,however1 par malheur1 ,i was at this time very much dissatisfied with madame his mother about the quail1 and insisted that before ,i accompanied him the bird should be slaughtered for the kitchen4 ,to this madame would by no means consent2 and even the young gentleman1 who had always taken my part on other occasions1 said that ,i was unreasonable3 so ,i left the house in a huff1 and never entered it again4 8,eh bien1 mon matre1 the young gentleman went upon his travels1 and continued abroad several years2 and from the time of his departure until we met him at ,colunga1 ,i have not set eyes upon1 nor indeed heard of him4 ,i have heard enough1 however1 of his family2 of monsieur the father1 of madame1 and of the brother1 who was an officer of cavalry4 ,a short time before the troubles1 ,i mean before the death of ,ferdinand1 monsieur the father was appointed captain-general of ,corunna4 ,now monsieur1 though a good master1 was rather a proud man1 and fond of discipline1 and all that kind of thing1 and of obedience4 ,he was1 moreover1 no friend to the populace1 to the canaille1 and he had a particular aversion to the nationals4 ,so1 when ,ferdinand died1 it was whispered about at ,corunna that the general was no liberal1 and that he was a better friend to ,carlos than ,christina4 ,eh bien1 it chanced that there was a grand fte1 or festival1 at ,corunna1 on the water1 and the nationals were there1 and the soldiers4 ,and ,i know not how it befell1 but there was an meute1 and the nationals laid hands on monsieur the general1 and tying a rope round his neck1 flung him overboard from the barge in which he was1 and then dragged him astern about the harbour until he was drowned4 ,they then went to his house1 and pillaged it1 and so ill-treated madame1 who at that time happened to be enceinte1 that in a few hours she expired4 8,i tell you what1 mon matre1 when ,i heard of the misfortune of madame and the general1 you would scarcely believe it1 but ,i actually shed tears1 and was sorry that ,i had parted with them in unkindness on account of that pernicious quail4 8,eh bien1 mon matre1 nous poursuivrons notre histoire4 ,the eldest son1 as ,i told you before1 was a cavalry officer1 and a man of resolution1 and when he heard of the death of his father and mother1 he vowed revenge4 ,poor fellow6 ,so what does he do but desert1 with two or three discontented spirits of his troop1 and going to the frontier of ,galicia1 he raised a small faction1 and proclaimed ,don ,carlos4 ,for some little time he did considerable damage to the liberals1 burning and destroying their possessions1 and putting to death several nationals that fell into his hands4 ,however1 this did not last long2 his faction was soon dispersed1 and he himself taken and hanged1 and his head stuck on a pole4 8,nous sommes dj presque au bout4 ,when we arrived at the inn1 the young man took me above1 as you saw1 and there for some time he could do nothing but weep and sob4 ,his story is soon told3--he returned from his travels1 and the first intelligence which awaited him on his arrival in ,spain was1 that his father was drowned1 his mother dead1 and his brother hanged1 and1 moreover1 all the possessions of his family confiscated4 ,this was not all3 wherever he went1 he found himself considered in the light of a factious and discontented person1 and was frequently assailed by the nationals with blows of sabres and cudgels4 ,he applied to his relations1 and some of these1 who were of the ,carlist persuasion1 advised him to betake himself to the army of ,don ,carlos1 and the ,pretender himself1 who was a friend of his father1 and remembered the services of his brother1 offered to give him a command in his army4 ,but1 mon matre1 as ,i told you before1 he was a pacific young gentleman1 and as mild as a lamb1 and hated the idea of shedding blood4 ,he was1 moreover1 not of the ,carlist opinion1 for during his studies he had read books written a long time ago by countrymen of mine1 all about republics and liberties1 and the rights of man1 so that he was much more inclined to the liberal than the ,carlist system2 he therefore declined the offer of ,don ,carlos1 whereupon all his relations deserted him1 whilst the liberals hunted him from one place to another like a wild beast4 ,at last1 he sold some little property which still remained to him1 and with the proceeds he came to this remote place of ,colunga1 where no one knew him1 and where he has been residing for several months1 in a most melancholy manner1 with no other amusement than that which he derives from a book or two1 or occasionally hunting a leveret with his spaniel4 8,he asked me for counsel1 but ,i had none to give him1 and could only weep with him4 ,at last he said1 #8,dear ,antonio1 ,i see there is no remedy4 ,you say your master is below2 beg him1 ,i pray1 to stay till tomorrow1 and we will send for the maidens of the neighbourhood1 and for a violin and bagpipe1 and we will dance and cast away care for a moment4' ,and then he said something in old ,greek1 which ,i scarcely understood1 but which ,i think was equivalent to1 #8,let us eat1 drink1 and be merry1 for to-morrow we die6' 8,eh bien1 mon matre1 ,i told him that you were a serious gentleman1 who never took any amusement1 and that you were in a hurry4 ,whereupon he wept again1 and embraced me1 and bade me farewell4 ,and now1 mon matre1 ,i have told you the history of the young man of the inn40 ,we slept at ,ribida de ,sella1 and the next day at noon arrived at ,llanes4 ,our route lay between the coast and an immense range of mountains1 which rose up like huge ramparts at about a league's distance from the sea4 ,the ground over which we passed was tolerably level1 and seemingly well cultivated4 ,there was no lack of vines and trees1 whilst at short intervals rose the cortijos of the proprietors--square stone buildings surrounded with an outer wall4 ,llanes is an old town1 formerly of considerable strength4 ,in its neighbourhood is the convent of ,san ,cilorio1 one of the largest monastic edifices in all ,spain4 ,it is now deserted1 and stands alone and desolate upon one of the peninsulas of the ,cantabrian shore4 ,leaving ,llanes1 we soon entered one of the most dreary and barren regions imaginable1 a region of rock and stone1 where neither grass nor trees were to be seen4 ,night overtook us in these places4 ,we wandered on1 however1 until we reached a small village1 termed ,santo ,colombo4 ,here we passed the night1 in the house of a carabineer of the revenue1 a tall athletic figure1 who met us at the gate1 armed with a gun4 ,he was a ,castilian1 and with all that ceremonious formality and grave politeness for which his countrymen were at one time so celebrated4 ,he chid his wife for conversing with her handmaid about the concerns of the house before us4 8,barbara10 said he1 8this is not conversation calculated to interest the strange cavaliers2 hold your peace1 or go aside with the muchacha40 ,in the morning he refused any remuneration for his hospitality1 8,i am a caballero10 said he1 8even as yourselves4 ,it is not my custom to admit people into my house for the sake of lucre4 ,i received you because you were benighted and the posada distant40 ,rising early in the morning1 we pursued our way through a country equally stony and dreary as that which we had entered upon the preceding day4 ,in about four hours we reached ,san ,vicente1 a large and dilapidated town1 chiefly inhabited by miserable fishermen4 ,it retains1 however1 many remarkable relics of former magnificence3 the bridge1 which bestrides the broad and deep firth on which stands the town1 has no less than thirty-two arches1 and is built of grey granite4 ,it is very ancient1 and in some parts in so ruinous a condition as to be dangerous4 ,leaving ,san ,vicente behind us1 we travelled for some leagues on the seashore1 crossing occasionally a narrow inlet or firth4 ,the country at last began to improve1 and in the neighbourhood of ,santillana was both beautiful and fertile4 ,about a league before we reached the country of ,gil ,blas we passed through an extensive wood1 in which were rocks and precipices2 it was exactly such a place as that in which the cave of ,rolando was situated1 as described in the novel4 ,the wood has an evil name1 and our guide informed us that robberies were occasionally committed in it4 ,no adventure1 however1 befell us1 and we reached ,santillana at about six in the evening4 ,we did not enter the town1 but halted at a large venta1 or posada1 at the entrance1 before which stood an immense ash tree4 ,we had scarcely housed ourselves when a tremendous storm of rain and wind commenced1 accompanied with thunder and lightning1 which continued without much interruption for several hours1 and the effects of which were visible in our journey of the following day1 the streams over which we passed being much swollen1 and several trees lying uptorn by the wayside4 ,santillana contains four thousand inhabitants1 and is six short leagues' distance from ,santander1 where we arrived early the next day4 ,nothing could exhibit a stronger contrast to the desolate tracts and the half-ruined towns through which we had lately passed1 than the bustle and activity of ,santander1 which1 though it stands on the confines of the ,basque provinces1 the stronghold of the ,pretender1 is almost the only city in ,spain which has not suffered by the ,carlist wars4 ,till the close of the last century it was little better than an obscure fishing town1 but it has of late years almost entirely engrossed the commerce of the ,spanish transatlantic possessions1 especially of the ,havannah4 ,the consequence of which has been1 that whilst ,santander has rapidly increased in wealth and magnificence1 both ,corunna and ,cadiz have been as rapidly hastening to decay4 ,at present it possesses a noble quay1 on which stands a line of stately edifices1 far exceeding in splendour the palaces of the aristocracy of ,madrid4 ,these are built in the ,french style1 and are chiefly occupied by the merchants4 ,the population of ,santander is estimated at sixty thousand souls4 ,on the day of my arrival ,i dined at the table-d'hte of the principal inn1 kept by a ,genoese4 ,the company was very miscellaneous--,french1 ,germans1 and ,spaniards1 all speaking in their respective languages1 whilst at the ends of the table1 confronting each other1 sat two ,catalan merchants1 one of whom weighed nearly twenty stone1 grunting across the board in their harsh dialect4 ,long1 however1 before dinner was concluded the conversation was entirely engrossed and the attention of all present directed to an individual who sat on one side of the bulky ,catalan4 ,he was a thin man of about the middle height1 with a remarkably red face1 and something in his eyes which1 if not a squint1 bore a striking resemblance to it4 ,he was dressed in a blue military frock1 and seemed to take much more pleasure in haranguing than in the fare which was set before him4 ,he spoke perfectly good ,spanish1 yet his voice betrayed something of a foreign accent4 ,for a long time he descanted with immense volubility on war and all its circumstances1 freely criticizing the conduct of the generals1 both ,carlist and ,cristinos1 in the present struggle1 till at last he exclaimed1 8,had ,i but twenty thousand men allowed me by the government1 ,i would bring the war to a conclusion in six months40 8,pardon me1 sir10 said a ,spaniard who sat at the table1 8the curiosity which induces me to request the favour of your distinguished name40 8,i am ,flinter10 replied the individual in the military frock1 8a name which is in the mouth of every man1 woman1 and child in ,spain4 ,i am ,flinter #ib the ,irishman1 just escaped from the ,basque provinces and the claws of ,don ,carlos4 ,on the decease of ,ferdinand1 ,i declared for ,isabella1 esteeming it the duty of every good cavalier and ,irishman in the ,spanish service to do so4 ,you have all heard of my exploits1 and permit me to tell you they would have been yet more glorious had not jealousy been at work and cramped my means4 ,two years ago ,i was despatched to ,estremadura1 to organize the militias4 ,the bands of ,gomez and ,cabrera entered the province1 and spread devastation around4 ,they found me1 however1 at my post2 and had ,i been properly seconded by those under my command1 the two rebels would never have returned to their master to boast of their success4 ,i stood behind my intrenchments4 ,a man advanced and summoned us to surrender4 #8,who are you8' ,i demanded4 #8,i am ,cabrera1' he replied2 #8and ,i am ,flinter1' ,i retorted flourishing my sabre2 #8retire to your battalions1 or you will forthwith die the death4' ,he was awed1 and did as ,i commanded4 ,in an hour we surrendered4 ,i was led a prisoner to the ,basque provinces2 and the ,carlists rejoiced in the capture they had made1 for the name of ,flinter had long sounded amongst the ,carlist ranks4 ,i was flung into a loathsome dungeon1 where ,i remained twenty months4 ,i was cold2 ,i was naked2 but ,i did not on that account despond--my spirit was too indomitable for such weakness4 ,my keeper at last pitied my misfortunes4 ,he said that #8it grieved him to see so valiant a man perish in inglorious confinement4' ,we laid a plan to escape together2 disguises were provided1 and we made the attempt4 ,we passed unobserved till we arrived at the ,carlist lines above ,bilbao3 there we were stopped4 ,my presence of mind1 however1 did not desert me4 ,i was disguised as a carman1 as a ,catalan1 and the coolness of my answers deceived my interrogators4 ,we were permitted to pass1 and soon were safe within the walls of ,bilbao4 ,there was an illumination that night in the town1 for the lion had burst his toils1 ,flinter had escaped1 and was once more returned to reanimate a drooping cause4 ,i have just arrived at ,santander1 on my way to ,madrid1 where ,i intend to ask of the government a command1 with twenty thousand men40 ,poor ,flinter6 a braver heart and a more gasconading mouth were surely never united in the same body4 ,he proceeded to ,madrid1 and through the influence of the ,british ambassador1 who was his friend1 he obtained the command of a small division1 with which he contrived to surprise and defeat1 in the neighbourhood of ,toledo1 a body of the ,carlists1 commanded by ,orejita1 whose numbers more than trebled his own4 ,in reward for this exploit he was persecuted by the government1 which1 at that time1 was the moderado or juste milieu1 with the most relentless animosity2 the prime minister1 ,ofalia1 supporting with all his influence numerous and ridiculous accusations of plunder and robbery brought against the too successful general by the ,carlist canons of ,toledo4 ,he was likewise charged with a dereliction of duty1 in having permitted1 after the battle of ,valdepeas1 which he likewise won in the most gallant manner1 the ,carlist force to take possession of the mines of ,almaden1 although the government1 who were bent on his ruin1 had done all in their power to prevent him from following up his successes1 by denying him the slightest supplies and reinforcements4 ,the fruits of victory thus wrested from him1 his hopes blighted1 a morbid melancholy seized upon the ,irishman2 he resigned his command1 and1 in less than ten months from the period when ,i saw him at ,santander1 afforded his dastardly and malignant enemies a triumph which satisfied even them1 by cutting his own throat with a razor4 ,ardent spirits of foreign climes1 who hope to distinguish yourselves in the service of ,spain1 and to earn honours and rewards1 remember the fate of ,columbus1 and of another as brave and as ardent--,flinter6 ,,chapter ,,xxxv4 ,departure from ,santander--,the ,night ,alarm--,the ,black ,pass4 ,i had ordered two hundred ,testaments to be sent to ,santander from ,madrid3 ,i found1 however1 to my great sorrow1 that they had not arrived1 and ,i supposed that they had either been seized on the way by the ,carlists1 or that my letter had miscarried4 ,i then thought of applying to ,england for a supply1 but ,i abandoned the idea for two reasons4 ,in the first place1 ,i should have to remain idly loitering1 at least a month1 before ,i could receive them1 at a place where every article was excessively dear2 and1 secondly1 ,i was very unwell1 and unable to procure medical advice at ,santander4 ,ever since ,i left ,corunna1 ,i had been afflicted with a terrible dysentery1 and latterly with an ophthalmia1 the result of the other malady4 ,i therefore determined on returning to ,madrid4 ,to effect this1 however1 seemed no very easy task4 ,parties of the army of ,don ,carlos1 which1 in a partial degree1 had been routed in ,castile1 were hovering about the country through which ,i should have to pass1 more especially in that part called 8,the ,mountains10 so that all communication had ceased between ,santander and the southern districts4 ,nevertheless1 ,i determined to trust as usual in the ,almighty1 and to risk the danger4 ,i purchased1 therefore1 a small horse1 and sallied forth with ,antonio4 ,before departing1 however1 ,i entered into conference with the booksellers as to what they should do in the event of my finding an opportunity of sending them a stock of ,testaments from ,madrid2 and1 having arranged matters to my satisfaction1 ,i committed myself to ,providence4 ,i will not dwell long on this journey of three hundred miles4 ,we were in the midst of the fire1 yet1 strange to say1 escaped without a hair of our heads being singed4 ,robberies1 murders1 and all kinds of atrocities were perpetrated before1 behind1 and on both sides of us2 but not so much as a dog barked at us1 though in one instance a plan had been laid to intercept us4 ,about four leagues from ,santander1 whilst we were baiting our horses at a village hostelry1 ,i saw a fellow run off after having held a whispering conversation with a boy who was dealing out barley to us4 ,i instantly inquired of the latter what the man had said to him1 but only obtained an evasive answer4 ,it appeared afterwards that the conversation was about ourselves4 ,two or three leagues farther there was an inn and village where we had proposed staying1 and indeed had expressed our intention of doing so2 but on arriving there1 finding that the sun was still far from its bourne1 ,i determined to proceed farther1 expecting to meet with a resting-place at the distance of a league2 though ,i was mistaken1 as we found none until we reached ,montaneda1 nine leagues and a half from ,santander1 where was stationed a small detachment of soldiers4 ,at the dead of night1 we were aroused from our sleep by a cry that the 8factious0 were not far off4 ,a messenger had arrived from the alcalde of the village where we had previously intended staying1 who stated that a party of ,carlists had just surprised that place1 and were searching for an ,english spy1 whom they supposed to be at the inn4 ,the officer commanding the soldiers1 upon hearing this1 not deeming his own situation a safe one1 instantly drew off his men1 falling back on a stronger party stationed in a fortified village near at hand4 ,as for ourselves1 we saddled our horses and continued our way in the dark4 ,had the ,carlists succeeded in apprehending me1 ,i should instantly have been shot1 and my body cast on the rocks to feed the vultures and wolves4 ,but 8it was not so written10 said ,antonio1 who1 like many of his countrymen1 was a fatalist4 ,the next night we had another singular escape3 we had arrived near the entrance of a horrible pass called 8,el puerto de la puente de las tablas10 or the pass of the bridge of planks1 which wound through a black and frightful mountain1 on the farther side of which was the town of ,oas1 where we meant to tarry for the night4 ,the sun had set about a quarter of an hour4 ,suddenly a man1 with his face covered with blood1 rushed out of the pass4 8,turn back1 sir10 he said1 8in the name of ,god2 there are murderers in that pass2 they have just robbed me of my mule1 and all ,i possess1 and ,i have hardly escaped with life from their hands60 ,i scarcely know why1 but ,i made him no answer1 and proceeded2 indeed ,i was so weary and unwell that ,i cared not what became of me4 ,we entered2 the rocks rose perpendicularly1 right and left1 entirely intercepting the scanty twilight1 so that the darkness of the grave1 or rather the blackness of the valley of the shadow of death1 reigned around us1 and we knew not where we went1 but trusted to the instinct of the horses1 who moved on with their heads close to the ground4 ,the only sound which we heard was the plash of a stream1 which tumbled down the pass4 ,i expected every moment to feel a knife at my throat1 but 8it was not so written40 ,we threaded the pass without meeting a human being1 and within three-quarters of an hour after the time we entered it1 we found ourselves within the posada of the town of ,oas1 which was filled with troops and armed peasants expecting an attack from the grand ,carlist army1 which was near at hand4 ,well1 we reached ,burgos in safety2 #ih we reached ,valladolid in safety2 we passed the ,guadarrama in safety2 and were at length safely housed in ,madrid4 ,people said we had been very lucky2 ,antonio said1 8,it was so written20 but ,i say1 ,glory be to the ,lord for ,his mercies vouchsafed to us4 ,,chapter ,,xxxvi4 ,state of ,affairs at ,madrid--,the ,new ,ministry--,pope of ,rome--,the ,bookseller of ,toledo--,sword-blades--,houses of ,toledo--,the ,forlorn ,gypsy--,proceedings at ,madrid--,another ,servant4 ,during my journey in the northern provinces of ,spain1 which occupied a considerable portion of the year #ahcg1 ,i had accomplished but a slight portion of what ,i proposed to myself to effect in the outset4 ,insignificant are the results of man's labours compared with the swelling ideas of his presumption2 something1 however1 had been effected by the journey which ,i had just concluded4 ,the ,new ,testament of ,christ was now enjoying a quiet sale in the principal towns of the north1 and ,i had secured the friendly interest and co-operation of the booksellers of those parts1 particularly of him the most considerable of them all1 old ,rey of ,compostella4 ,i had1 moreover1 disposed of a considerable number of ,testaments with my own hands1 to private individuals1 entirely of the lower classes1 namely1 muleteers1 carmen1 contrabandistas1 etc41 so that upon the whole ,i had abundant cause for gratitude and thanksgiving4 ,i did not find our affairs in a very prosperous state at ,madrid1 few copies having been sold in the booksellers' shops2 yet what could be rationally expected during these latter times8 ,don ,carlos1 with a large army1 had been at the gates2 plunder and massacre had been expected2 so that people were too much occupied in forming plans to secure their lives and property to give much attention to reading of any description4 ,the enemy1 however1 had now retired to his strongholds in ,alava and ,guipuzcoa4 ,i hoped that brighter days were dawning1 and that the work1 under my own superintendence1 would1 with ,god's blessing1 prosper in the capital of ,spain4 ,how far the result corresponded with my expectations will be seen in the sequel4 ,during my absence in the north1 a total change of ministers had occurred4 ,the liberal party had been ousted from the cabinet1 and in their place had entered individuals attached to the moderado or court party3 unfortunately1 however1 for my prospects1 they consisted of persons with whom ,i had no acquaintance whatever1 and with whom my former friends1 ,galiano and ,isturitz1 had little or no influence4 ,these gentlemen were now regularly laid on the shelf1 and their political career appeared to be terminated for ever4 #ajj ,from the present ministry ,i could expect but little2 they consisted of men the greater part of whom had been either courtiers or employs of the deceased ,king ,ferdinand1 who were friends to absolutism1 and by no means inclined to do or to favour anything calculated to give offence to the court of ,rome1 which they were anxious to conciliate1 hoping that eventually it might be induced to recognize the young queen1 not as the constitutional but as the absolute ,queen ,isabella the ,second4 ,such was the party which continued in power throughout the remainder of my sojourn in ,spain1 and which persecuted me less from rancour and malice than from policy4 ,it was not until the conclusion of the war of the succession that it lost the ascendency1 when it sank to the ground with its patroness the queen-mother1 before the dictatorship of ,espartero4 ,the first step which ,i took after my return to ,madrid1 towards circulating the ,scriptures1 was a very bold one4 ,it was neither more nor less than the establishment of a shop for the sale of ,testaments4 ,this shop was situated in the ,calle del ,principe1 a respectable and well-frequented street in the neighbourhood of the ,square of ,cervantes4 ,i furnished it handsomely with glass cases and chandeliers1 and procured an acute ,gallegan of the name of ,pepe ,calzado1 to superintend the business1 who gave me weekly a faithful account of the copies sold4 8,how strangely times alter10 said ,i1 the second day subsequent to the opening of my establishment1 as ,i stood on the opposite side of the street1 leaning against the wall with folded arms1 surveying my shop1 on the windows of which were painted in large yellow characters1 ,despacho de la ,sociedad ,bblica y ,estrangera2 #aja 8how strangely times alter6 ,here have ,i been during the last eight months running about old ,popish ,spain1 distributing ,testaments1 as agent of what the ,papists call an heretical society1 and have neither been stoned nor burnt2 and here am ,i now in the capital1 doing that which one would think were enough to cause all the dead inquisitors and officials buried within the circuit of the walls to rise from their graves and cry abomination2 and yet no one interferes with me4 ,pope of ,rome6 ,pope of ,rome6 look to thyself4 ,that shop may be closed2 but oh6 what a sign of the times1 that it has been permitted to exist for one day4 ,it appears to me1 my ,father1 that the days of your sway are numbered in ,spain2 that you will not be permitted much longer to plunder her1 to scoff at her1 and to scourge her with scorpions1 as in bygone periods4 ,see ,i not the hand on the wall8 ,see ,i not in yonder letters a #8,mene1 ,mene1 ,tekel1 ,upharsin'8 ,look to thyself1 ,batuschca40 ,and ,i remained for two hours1 leaning against the wall1 staring at the shop4 ,a short time after the establishment of the despacho at ,madrid1 ,i once more mounted the saddle1 and1 attended by ,antonio1 rode over to ,toledo1 for the purpose of circulating the ,scriptures1 sending beforehand by a muleteer a cargo of one hundred ,testaments4 ,i instantly addressed myself to the principal bookseller of the place1 whom1 from the circumstance of his living in a town so abounding with canons1 priests1 and ex-friars as ,toledo1 ,i expected to find a ,carlist1 or a servil at least4 ,i was never more mistaken in my life3 on entering the shop1 which was very large and commodious1 ,i beheld a stout athletic man1 dressed in a kind of cavalry uniform1 with a helmet on his head1 and an immense sabre in his hand4 ,this was the bookseller himself1 who1 ,i soon found1 was an officer in the national cavalry4 ,upon learning who ,i was1 he shook me heartily by the hand1 and said that nothing would give him greater pleasure than taking charge of the books1 which he would endeavour to circulate to the utmost of his ability4 8,will not your doing so bring you into odium with the clergy80 8,ca60 #ajc;a said he2 8who cares8 ,i am rich1 and so was my father before me4 ,i do not depend on them2 they cannot hate me more than they do already1 for ,i make no secret of my opinions4 ,i have just returned from an expedition10 said he2 8my brother nationals and myself have1 for the last three days1 been occupied in hunting down the factious and thieves of the neighbourhood2 we have killed three and brought in several prisoners4 ,who cares for the cowardly priests8 ,i am a liberal1 ,don ,jorge1 and a friend of your countryman1 ,flinter4 ,many is the ,carlist guerilla-curate and robber-friar whom ,i have assisted him to catch4 ,i am rejoiced to hear that he has just been appointed captain-general of ,toledo2 there will be fine doings here when he arrives1 ,don ,jorge4 ,we will make the clergy shake between us1 ,i assure you40 ,toledo was formerly the capital of ,spain4 ,its population at present is barely fifteen thousand souls1 though1 in the time of the ,romans1 and also during the ,middle ,ages1 it is said to have amounted to between two and three hundred thousand4 ,it is situated about twelve leagues1 or forty miles1 westward #ajc;b of ,madrid1 and is built upon a steep rocky hill1 round which flows the ,tagus1 on all sides but the north4 ,it still possesses a great many remarkable edifices1 notwithstanding that it has long since fallen into decay4 ,its cathedral is the most magnificent of ,spain1 and is the see of the primate4 ,in the tower of this cathedral is the famous bell of ,toledo1 the largest in the world with the exception of the monster bell of ,moscow1 which ,i have also seen4 ,it weighs #aedc arrobas1 or #cg1jcb pounds4 ,it has1 however1 a disagreeable sound1 owing to a cleft in its side4 ,toledo could once boast the finest pictures in ,spain1 but many were stolen or destroyed by the ,french during the ,peninsular war1 and still more have lately been removed by order of the government4 ,perhaps the most remarkable one still remains2 ,i allude to that which represents the burial of the ,count of ,orgas1 the masterpiece of ,domenico1 #ajd the ,greek1 a most extraordinary genius1 some of whose productions possess merit of a very high order4 ,the picture in question is in the little parish church of ,san ,tom1 at the bottom of the aisle1 on the left side of the altar4 ,could it be purchased1 ,i should say it would be cheap at five thousand pounds4 ,amongst the many remarkable things which meet the eye of the curious observer at ,toledo1 is the manufactory of arms1 where are wrought the swords1 spears1 and other weapons intended for the army1 with the exception of firearms1 which mostly come from abroad4 ,in old times1 as is well known1 the sword-blades of ,toledo were held in great estimation1 and were transmitted as merchandise throughout ,christendom4 ,the present manufactory1 or fabrica1 as it is called1 is a handsome modern edifice1 situated without the wall of the city1 on a plain contiguous to the river1 with which it communicates by a small canal4 ,it is said that the water and the sand of the ,tagus are essential for the proper tempering of the swords4 ,i asked some of the principal workmen whether1 at the present day1 they could manufacture weapons of equal value to those of former days1 and whether the secret had been lost4 8,ca60 said they1 8the swords of ,toledo were never so good as those which we are daily making4 ,it is ridiculous enough to see strangers coming here to purchase old swords1 the greater part of which are mere rubbish1 and never made at ,toledo1 yet for such they will give a large price1 whilst they would grudge two dollars for this jewel1 which was made but yesterday20 thereupon putting into my hand a middle-sized rapier4 8,your worship10 said they1 8seems to have a strong arm2 prove its temper against the stone wall--thrust boldly and fear not40 ,i have a strong arm1 and dashed the point with my utmost force against the solid granite3 my arm was numbed to the shoulder from the violence of the concussion1 and continued so for nearly a week1 but the sword appeared not to be at all blunted1 or to have suffered in any respect4 8,a better sword than that10 said an ancient workman1 a native of ,old ,castile1 8never transfixed ,moor out yonder on the sagra40 ,during my stay at ,toledo1 ,i lodged at the ,posada de los ,caballeros1 which signifies the inn of the gentlemen1 which name1 in some respects1 it certainly well deserved1 for there are many palaces far less magnificent than this inn of ,toledo4 ,by magnificence it must not be supposed1 however1 that ,i allude to costliness of furniture or any kind of luxury which pervaded the culinary department4 ,the rooms were as empty as those of ,spanish inns generally are1 and the fare1 though good in its kind1 was plain and homely2 but ,i have seldom seen a more imposing edifice4 ,it was of immense size1 consisting of several stories1 and was built something in the ,moorish taste1 with a quadrangular court in the centre1 beneath which was an immense algibe or tank1 serving as a reservoir for rain-water4 ,all the houses in ,toledo are supplied with tanks of this description1 into which the waters in the rainy season flow from the roofs through pipes4 ,no other water is used for drinking2 that of the ,tagus1 not being considered salubrious1 is only used for purposes of cleanliness1 being conveyed up the steep narrow streets on donkeys1 in large stone jars4 ,the city1 standing on a rocky mountain1 has no wells4 ,as for the rain-water1 it deposits a sediment in the tank1 and becomes very sweet and potable3 these tanks are cleaned out twice every year4 ,during the summer1 at which time the heat in this part of ,spain is intense1 the families spend the greater part of the day in the courts1 which are overhung with a linen awning1 the heat of the atmosphere being tempered by the coolness arising from the tank below1 which answers the same purpose as the fountain in the southern provinces of ,spain4 ,i spent about a week at ,toledo1 during which time several copies of the ,testament were disposed of in the shop of my friend the bookseller4 ,several priests took it up from the mostrador on which it lay1 examined it1 but made no remarks2 none of them purchased it4 ,my friend showed me through his house1 almost every apartment of which was lined from roof to floor with books1 many of which were highly valuable4 ,he told me that he possessed the best collection in ,spain of the ancient literature of the country4 ,he was1 however1 less proud of his library than his stud2 finding that ,i had some acquaintance with horses1 his liking for me and also his respect considerably increased4 8,all ,i have10 said he1 8is at your service2 ,i see you are a man after my own heart4 ,when you are disposed to ride out upon the sagra1 you have only to apply to my groom1 who will forthwith saddle you my famed ,cordovese entero2 ,i purchased him from the stables at ,aranjuez1 when the royal stud was broken up4 ,there is but one other man to whom ,i would lend him1 and that man is ,flinter40 ,at ,toledo ,i met with a forlorn gypsy woman and her son1 a lad of about fourteen years of age2 she was not a native of the place1 but had come from ,la ,mancha1 her husband having been cast into the prison of ,toledo on a charge of mule-stealing3 the crime had been proved against him1 and in a few days he was to depart for ,malaga1 with the chain of galley-slaves4 ,he was quite destitute of money1 and his wife was now in ,toledo1 earning a few cuartos by telling fortunes about the streets1 to support him in prison4 ,she told me that it was her intention to follow him to ,malaga1 where she hoped to be able to effect his escape4 ,what an instance of conjugal affection6 and yet the affection here was all on one side1 as is too frequently the case4 ,her husband was a worthless scoundrel1 who had previously abandoned her and betaken himself to ,madrid1 where he had long lived in concubinage with the notorious she-thug ,aurora1 #ajg at whose instigation he had committed the robbery for which he was now held in durance4 8,should your husband escape from ,malaga1 in what direction will he fly80 ,i demanded4 8,to the chim of the ,corahai1 my son2 to the land of the ,moors1 to be a soldier of the ,moorish king40 8,and what will become of yourself80 ,i inquired2 8think you that he will take you with him80 8,he will leave me on the shore1 my son2 and as soon as he has crossed the black pawnee1 he will forget me and never think of me more40 8,and knowing his ingratitude1 why should you give yourself so much trouble about him80 8,am ,i not his rom1 my son2 and am ,i not bound by the law of the ,cals to assist him to the last8 ,should he return from the land of the ,corahai at the end of a hundred years1 and should find me alive1 and should say1 #8,i am hungry1 little wife2 go forth and steal or tell baji1' ,i must do it1 for he is the rom and ,i the rom40 ,on my return to ,madrid1 ,i found the despacho still open4 ,various ,testaments had been sold1 though the number was by no means considerable3 the work had to labour under great disadvantage1 from the ignorance of the people at large with respect to its tenor and contents4 ,it was no wonder1 then1 that little interest was felt respecting it4 ,to call1 however1 public attention to the despacho1 ,i printed three thousand advertisements on paper1 yellow1 blue1 and crimson1 with which ,i almost covered the sides of the streets1 and1 besides this1 inserted an account of it in all the journals and periodicals3 the consequence was1 that in a short time almost every person in ,madrid was aware of its existence4 ,such exertions in ,london or ,paris would probably have ensured the sale of the entire edition of the ,new ,testament within a few days4 ,in ,madrid1 however1 the result was not quite so flattering2 for after the establishment had been open an entire month1 the copies disposed of barely amounted to one hundred4 ,these proceedings of mine did not fail to cause a great sensation3 the priests and their partisans were teeming with malice and fury1 which1 for some time1 however1 they thought proper to exhibit only in words2 it being their opinion that ,i was favoured by the ambassador and by the ,british government2 but there was no attempt1 however atrocious1 that might not be expected from their malignity2 and were it right and seemly for me1 the most insignificant of worms1 to make such a comparison1 ,i might say1 like ,paul at ,ephesus1 ,i was fighting with wild beasts4 ,on the last day of the year #ahcg1 my servant ,antonio thus addressed me3 8,mon matre1 it is necessary that ,i leave you for a time4 ,ever since we have returned from our journeys1 ,i have become unsettled and dissatisfied with the house1 the furniture1 and with ,doa ,marequita4 ,i have therefore engaged myself as cook in the house of the ,count of ---1 where ,i am to receive four dollars per month less than what your worship gives me4 ,i am fond of change1 though it be for the worse4 ,adieu1 mon matre2 may you be as well served as you deserve4 ,should you chance1 however1 to have any pressing need de mes soins1 send for me without hesitation1 and ,i will at once give my new master warning1 if ,i am still with him1 and come to you40 ,thus ,i was deprived for a time of the services of ,antonio4 ,i continued for a few days without a domestic1 at the end of which time ,i hired a certain ,cantabrian or ,basque1 a native of the village of ,hernani1 in ,guipuzcoa1 who was strongly recommended to me4 ,,chapter ,,xxxvii4 ,euscarra--,basque not ,irish--,sanscrit and ,tartar ,dialects--,a ,vowel ,language--,popular ,poetry--,the ,basques--,their ,persons--,basque ,women4 ,i now entered upon the year #ahch1 perhaps the most eventful of all those which ,i passed in ,spain4 ,the despacho still continued open1 with a somewhat increasing sale4 ,having at this time little of particular moment with which to occupy myself1 ,i committed to the press two works1 which for some time past had been in the course of preparation4 ,these were the ,gospel of ,st4 ,luke in the ,spanish gypsy and the ,euscarra languages4 #aaa;a ,with respect to the gypsy ,gospel1 ,i have little to say1 having already spoken of it in a former work2 #aaa;b it was translated by myself1 together with the greater part of the ,new ,testament1 during my long intercourse with the ,spanish gypsies4 ,concerning the ,luke in ,euscarra1 however1 it will be as well to be more particular1 and to avail myself of the present opportunity to say a few words concerning the language in which it was written1 and the people for whom it was intended4 ,the ,euscarra1 then1 is the proper term for a certain speech or language1 supposed to have been at one time prevalent throughout ,spain1 but which is at present confined to certain districts1 both on the ,french and ,spanish side of the ,pyrenees1 which are laved by the waters of the ,cantabrian ,gulf1 or ,bay of ,biscay4 ,this language is commonly known as the ,basque1 or ,biscayan1 which words are mere modifications of the word ,euscarra1 the consonant ,b having been prefixed for the sake of euphony4 ,much that is vague1 erroneous1 and hypothetical has been said and written concerning this tongue4 ,the ,basques assert that it was not only the original language of ,spain1 but also of the world1 and that from it all other languages are derived2 but the ,basques are a very ignorant people1 and know nothing of the philosophy of language4 ,very little importance1 therefore1 need be attached to any opinion of theirs on such a subject4 ,a few amongst them1 however1 who affect some degree of learning1 contend that it is neither more nor less than a dialect of the ,phnician1 and that the ,basques are the descendants of a ,phnician colony1 established at the foot of the ,pyrenees at a very remote period4 ,of this theory1 or rather conjecture1 as it is unsubstantiated by the slightest proof1 it is needless to take further notice than to observe that1 provided the ,phnician language1 as many of the truly learned have supposed1 and almost proved1 was a dialect of the ,hebrew1 or closely allied to it1 it were as unreasonable to suppose that the ,basque is derived from it as that the ,kamschatkan and ,cherokee are dialects of the ,greek and ,latin4 ,there is1 however1 another opinion with respect to the ,basque which deserves more especial notice1 from the circumstance of its being extensively entertained amongst the literati of various countries of ,europe1 more especially ,england4 ,i allude to the ,celtic origin of this tongue1 and its close connexion with the most cultivated of all the ,celtic dialects--the ,irish4 ,people who pretend to be well conversant with the subject1 have even gone so far as to assert1 that so little difference exists between the ,basque and ,irish tongues1 that individuals of the two nations1 when they meet together1 find no difficulty in understanding each other1 with no other means of communication than their respective languages2 in a word1 that there is scarcely a greater difference between the two than between the ,french and the ,spanish ,basque4 ,such similarity1 however1 though so strongly insisted upon1 by no means exists in fact2 and perhaps in the whole of ,europe it would be difficult to discover two languages which exhibit fewer points of mutual resemblance than the ,basque and ,irish4 ,the ,irish1 like most other ,european languages1 is a dialect of the ,sanscrit1 a remote one1 as may well be supposed2 the corner of the western world in which it is still preserved being1 of all countries in ,europe1 the most distant from the proper home of the parent tongue4 ,it is still1 however1 a dialect of that venerable and most original speech1 not so closely resembling it1 it is true1 as the ,english1 ,danish1 and those which belong to what is called the ,gothic family1 and far less than those of the ,sclavonian2 for the nearer we approach to the ,east1 in equal degree the assimilation of languages to this parent stock becomes more clear and distinct2 but still a dialect1 agreeing with the ,sanscrit in structure1 in the arrangement of words1 and in many instances in the words themselves1 which1 however modified1 may still be recognized as ,sanscrit4 ,but what is the ,basque1 and to what family does it properly pertain8 ,to two great ,asiatic languages all the dialects spoken at present in ,europe may be traced4 ,these two1 if not now spoken1 still exist in books1 and are1 moreover1 the languages of two of the principal religions of the ,east4 ,i allude to the ,tibetian and ,sanscrit--the sacred languages of the followers of ,buddh and ,bramah4 ,these tongues1 though they possess many words in common1 which is easily to be accounted for by their close proximity1 are properly distinct1 being widely different in structure4 ,in what this difference consists1 ,i have neither time nor inclination to state2 suffice it to say1 that the ,celtic1 ,gothic1 and ,sclavonian dialects in ,europe belong to the ,sanscrit family1 even as in the ,east the ,persian1 and to a less degree the ,arabic1 ,hebrew1 etc42 #aad whilst to the ,tibetian or ,tartar family in ,asia pertain the ,mandchou and ,mongolian1 the ,calmuc and the ,turkish of the ,caspian sea2 and in ,europe1 the ,hungarian and the ,basque partially4 ,indeed1 this latter language is a strange anomaly1 so that upon the whole it is less difficult to say what it is not1 than what it is4 ,it abounds with ,sanscrit words to such a degree that its surface seems strewn with them4 ,yet would it be wrong to term it a ,sanscrit dialect1 for in the collocation of these words the ,tartar form is most decidedly observable4 ,a considerable proportion of ,tartar words is likewise to be found in this language1 though perhaps not in equal numbers to the terms derived from the ,sanscrit4 ,of these ,tartar etymons ,i shall at present content myself with citing one1 though1 if necessary1 it were easy to adduce hundreds4 ,this word is ,jauna1 or1 as it is pronounced1 ,khauna--a word in constant use amongst the ,basques1 and which is the ,khan of the ,mongols and ,mandchous1 and of the same signification--,lord4 ,having closely examined the subject in all its various bearings1 and having weighed what is to be said on one side against what is to be advanced on the other1 ,i am inclined to rank the ,basque rather amongst the ,tartar than the ,sanscrit dialects4 ,whoever should have an opportunity of comparing the enunciation of the ,basques and ,tartars would1 from that alone1 even if he understood them not1 come to the conclusion that their respective languages were formed on the same principles4 ,in both occur periods seemingly interminable1 during which the voice gradually ascends to a climax1 and then gradually sinks down4 ,i have spoken of the surprising number of ,sanscrit words contained in the ,basque language1 specimens of some of which will be found below4 ,it is remarkable enough1 that in the greater part of the derivatives from the ,sanscrit1 the ,basque has dropped the initial consonant1 so that the word commences with a vowel4 ,the ,basque1 indeed1 may be said to be almost a vowel language1 the number of consonants employed being comparatively few2 perhaps eight words out of ten commence and terminate with a vowel1 owing to which it is a language to the highest degree soft and melodious1 far excelling in this respect any other language in ,europe1 not even excepting the ,italian4 ,here follow a few specimens of ,basque words with the ,sanscrit roots in juxtaposition3-- ,,basque4 ,,sanscrit4 ,ardoa #aaf;a ,sandhna ,wine4 ,arratsa ,ratri ,night4 ,beguia ,akshi ,eye4 ,choria ,chiria #aaf;a ,bird4 ,chacurra ,cucura ,dog4 ,erreguia ,rani ,queen4 #aaf;a ,icusi ,iksha ,to see4 ,iru ,treya ,three4 ,jan 7,khan7 ,khana ,to eat4 ,uria #aaf;a ,puri ,city4 ,urruti ,dura ,far4 ,such is the tongue in which ,i brought out ,saint ,luke's ,gospel at ,madrid4 ,the translation ,i procured originally from a ,basque physician of the name of ,oteiza4 #aaf;b ,previous to being sent to the press1 the version had lain nearly two years in my possession1 during which time1 and particularly during my travels1 ,i lost no opportunity of submitting it to the inspection of those who were considered competent scholars in the ,euscarra4 ,it did not entirely please me2 but it was in vain to seek for a better translation4 ,in my early youth ,i had obtained a slight acquaintance with the ,euscarra1 as it exists in books4 ,this acquaintance ,i considerably increased during my stay in ,spain1 and1 by occasionally mingling with ,basques1 was enabled to understand the spoken language to a certain extent1 and even to speak it1 but always with considerable hesitation2 for to speak ,basque1 even tolerably1 it is necessary to have lived in the country from a very early period4 ,so great are the difficulties attending it1 and so strange are its peculiarities1 that it is very rare to find a foreigner possessed of any considerable skill in the oral language1 and the ,spaniards consider the obstacles so formidable that they have a proverb to the effect that ,satan once lived seven years in ,biscay1 and then departed1 finding himself unable either to understand or to make himself understood4 ,there are few inducements to the study of this language4 ,in the first place1 the acquisition of it is by no means necessary even to those who reside in the countries where it is spoken1 the ,spanish being generally understood throughout the ,basque provinces pertaining to ,spain1 and the ,french in those pertaining to ,france4 ,in the second place1 neither dialect is in possession of any peculiar literature capable of repaying the toil of the student4 ,there are various books extant both in ,french and ,spanish ,basque1 #aag but these consist entirely of ,popish devotion1 and are for the most part translations4 ,it will1 perhaps1 here be asked whether the ,basques do not possess popular poetry1 like most other nations1 however small and inconsiderable4 ,they have certainly no lack of songs1 ballads1 and stanzas1 but of a character by no means entitled to the appellation of poetry4 ,i have noted down from recitation1 a considerable portion of what they call their poetry1 but the only tolerable specimen of verse which ,i ever discovered amongst them was the following stanza1 which1 after all1 is not entitled to very high praise3-- 8,ichasoa urac aundi1 ,estu ondoric agueri-- ,pasaco ninsaqueni andic ,maitea icustea gatic40 #aah;a i4e4 8,the waters of the sea are vast1 and their bottom cannot be seen2 but over them ,i will pass1 that ,i may behold my love40 ,the ,basques are a singing rather than a poetical people4 ,notwithstanding the facility with which their tongue lends itself to the composition of verse1 they have never produced among them a poet with the slightest pretensions to reputation2 but their voices are singularly sweet1 and they are known to excel in musical composition4 ,it is the opinion of a certain author1 the ,abb ,d',iharce1 #aah;b who has written about them1 that they derived the name ,cantabri1 by which they are known to the ,romans1 from ,khantor-ber1 signifying sweet singers4 ,they possess much music of their own1 some of which is said to be exceedingly ancient4 ,of this music specimens were published at ,donostian 7,san ,sebastian7 in the year #ahbf1 edited by a certain ,juan ,ignacio ,iztueta4 #aah;c ,these consist of wild and thrilling marches1 to the sound of which it is believed that the ancient ,basques were in the habit of descending from their mountains to combat with the ,romans1 and subsequently with the ,moors4 ,whilst listening to them it is easy to suppose one's self in the close vicinity of some desperate encounter4 ,we seem to hear the charge of cavalry on the sounding plain1 the clash of swords1 and the rushing of men down the gorges of hills4 ,this music is accompanied with words1 but such words6 ,nothing can be imagined more stupid1 commonplace1 and uninteresting4 ,so far from being martial1 they relate to everyday incidents1 and appear to have no connexion whatever with the music4 ,they are evidently of modern date4 ,in person the ,basques are of the middle size1 and are active and athletic4 ,they are in general of fair complexions and handsome features1 and in appearance bear no slight resemblance to certain ,tartar tribes of the ,caucasus4 ,their bravery is unquestionable1 and they are considered as the best soldiery belonging to the ,spanish crown3 a fact highly corroborative of the supposition that they are of ,tartar origin1 the ,tartars being of all races the most warlike1 and amongst whom the most remarkable conquerors have been produced4 ,they are faithful and honest1 and capable of much disinterested attachment2 kind and hospitable to strangers2 all of which points are far from being at variance with the ,tartar character4 ,but they are somewhat dull1 and their capacities are by no means of a high order1 and in these respects they again resemble the ,tartars4 ,no people on earth are prouder than the ,basques1 but theirs is a kind of republican pride4 ,they have no nobility amongst them1 and no one will acknowledge a superior4 ,the poorest carman is as proud as the governor of ,tolosa4 8,he is more powerful than ,i10 he will say1 8but ,i am of as good blood2 perhaps hereafter ,i may become a governor myself40 ,they abhor servitude1 at least out of their own country2 and though circumstances frequently oblige them to seek masters1 it is very rare to find them filling the places of common domestics2 they are stewards1 secretaries1 accountants1 etc4 ,true it is1 that it was my own fortune to obtain a ,basque domestic2 but then he always treated me more as an equal than a master1 would sit down in my presence1 give me his advice unasked1 and enter into conversation with me at all times and occasions4 ,did ,i check him8 ,certainly not6 ,for in that case he would have left me1 and a more faithful creature ,i never knew4 ,his fate was a mournful one1 as will appear in the sequel4 ,i have said that the ,basques abhor servitude1 and are rarely to be found serving as domestics amongst the ,spaniards4 ,i allude1 however1 merely to the males4 ,the females1 on the contrary1 have no objection whatever to enter houses as servants4 ,women1 indeed1 amongst the ,basques are not looked upon with all the esteem which they deserve1 and are considered as fitted for little else than to perform menial offices1 even as in the ,east1 where they are viewed in the light of servants and slaves4 ,the ,basque females differ widely in character from the men2 they are quick and vivacious1 and have in general much more talent4 ,they are famous for their skill as cooks1 and in most respectable houses of ,madrid a ,biscayan female may be found in the kitchen1 queen supreme of the culinary department4 #abj ,,chapter ,,xxxviii4 ,the ,prohibition--,gospel ,persecuted--,charge of ,sorcery--,ofalia4 ,about the middle of ,january #aba;a a swoop was made upon me by my enemies1 in the shape of a peremptory prohibition from the political governor of ,madrid to sell any more ,new ,testaments4 ,this measure by no means took me by surprise1 as ,i had for some time previously been expecting something of the kind1 on account of the political sentiments of the ministers then in power4 ,i forthwith paid a visit to ,sir ,george ,villiers1 informing him of what had occurred4 ,he promised to do all he could to cause the prohibition to be withdrawn4 ,unfortunately1 at this time he had not much influence1 having opposed with all his might the entrance of the moderado #aba;b ministry to power1 and the nomination of ,ofalia #aba;c to the presidency of the cabinet4 ,i however1 never lost confidence in the ,almighty1 in whose cause ,i was engaged4 ,matters were going on very well before this check4 ,the demand for ,testaments was becoming considerable1 so much so that the clergy were alarmed1 and this step was the consequence4 ,but they had previously recourse to another1 well worthy of them2 they attempted to act upon my fears4 ,one of the ruffians of ,madrid1 called ,manolos1 came up to me one night1 in a dark street1 and told me that unless ,i discontinued selling my 8,jewish books10 ,i should have a knife 8nailed in my heart20 but ,i told him to go home1 say his prayers1 and tell his employers that ,i pitied them2 whereupon he turned away with an oath4 ,a few days after1 ,i received an order to send two copies of the ,testament to the office of the political governor1 with which ,i complied1 and in less than twenty-four hours an alguazil arrived at the shop with a notice prohibiting the further sale of the work4 ,one circumstance rejoiced me4 ,singular as it may appear1 the authorities took no measures to cause my little despacho to be closed1 and ,i received no prohibition respecting the sale of any work but the ,new ,testament1 and as the ,gospel of ,saint ,luke1 in ,romany and ,basque1 would within a short time be ready for delivery1 ,i hoped to carry on matters in a small way till better times should arrive4 ,i was advised to erase from the shop windows the words 8,despacho of the ,british and ,foreign ,bible ,society40 ,this1 however1 ,i refused to do4 ,those words had tended very much to call attention1 which was my grand object4 ,had ,i attempted to conduct things in an underhand manner1 ,i should1 at the time of which ,i am speaking1 scarcely have sold thirty copies in ,madrid1 instead of nearly three hundred4 ,people who know me not1 may be disposed to call me rash2 but ,i am far from being so1 as ,i never adopt a venturous course when any other is open to me4 ,i am not1 however1 a person to be terrified by any danger1 when ,i see that braving it is the only way to achieve an object4 ,the booksellers were unwilling to sell my work2 ,i was compelled to establish a shop of my own4 ,every shop in ,madrid has a name4 ,what name could ,i give it but the true one8 ,i was not ashamed of my cause or my colours4 ,i hoisted them1 and fought beneath them1 not without success4 ,the priestly party in ,madrid1 in the mean time1 spared no effort to vilify me4 ,they started a publication called ,the ,friend of the ,christian ,religion1 in which a stupid but furious attack upon me appeared1 which ,i1 however1 treated with the contempt it deserved4 ,but not satisfied with this1 they endeavoured to incite the populace against me1 by telling them that ,i was a sorcerer1 and a companion of gypsies and witches1 and their agents even called me so in the streets4 ,that ,i was an associate of gypsies and fortune-tellers ,i do not deny4 ,why should ,i be ashamed of their company when my ,master mingled with publicans and thieves8 ,many of the gypsy race came frequently to visit me2 received instruction1 and heard parts of the ,gospel read to them in their own language1 and when they were hungry and faint1 ,i gave them to eat and drink4 ,this might be deemed sorcery in ,spain1 but ,i am not without hope that it will be otherwise estimated in ,england2 and had ,i perished at this period1 ,i think there are some who would have been disposed to acknowledge that ,i had not lived altogether in vain 7always as an instrument of the 8,most ,highest071 having been permitted to turn one of the most valuable books of ,god into the speech of the most degraded of ,his creatures4 ,in the mean time ,i endeavoured to enter into negotiations with the ministry for the purpose of obtaining permission to sell the ,new ,testament in ,madrid1 and the nullification of the prohibition4 ,i experienced1 however1 great opposition1 which ,i was unable to surmount4 ,several of the ultra-popish bishops1 then resident in ,madrid1 had denounced the ,bible1 the ,bible ,society1 and myself4 ,nevertheless1 notwithstanding their powerful and united efforts1 they were unable to effect their principal object1 namely1 my expulsion from ,madrid and ,spain4 ,the ,count ,ofalia1 notwithstanding he had permitted himself to be made the instrument1 to a certain extent1 of these people1 would not consent to be pushed to such a length4 ,throughout this affair ,i cannot find words sufficiently strong to do justice to the zeal and interest which ,sir ,george ,villiers displayed in the cause of the ,testament4 ,he had various interviews with ,ofalia on the subject1 and in these he expressed to him his sense of the injustice and tyranny which had been practised in this instance towards his countryman4 ,ofalia had been moved by these remonstrances1 and more than once promised to do all in his power to oblige ,sir ,george2 but then the bishops again beset him1 and playing upon his political if not religious fears1 prevented him from acting a just1 honest1 and honourable part4 ,at the desire of ,sir ,george ,villiers1 ,i drew up a brief account of the ,bible ,society1 and an exposition of its views1 especially in respect to ,spain1 which he presented with his own hand to the ,count4 ,i shall not trouble the reader by inserting this memorial1 but content myself with observing1 that ,i made no attempts to flatter and cajole1 but expressed myself honestly and frankly1 as a ,christian ought4 ,ofalia1 on reading it1 said1 8,what a pity that this is a ,protestant society1 and that all its members are not ,catholics60 ,a few days subsequently1 to my great astonishment1 he sent a message to me by a friend1 requesting that ,i would send him a copy of my gypsy ,gospel4 ,i may as well here state1 that the fame of this work1 though not yet published1 had already spread like wildfire through ,madrid1 and every person was passionately eager to possess a copy3 indeed1 several grandees of ,spain sent messages with similar requests1 all of which ,i however denied4 ,i instantly resolved to take advantage of this overture on the part of ,count ,ofalia1 and to call on him myself4 ,i therefore caused a copy of the ,gospel to be handsomely bound1 and proceeding to the palace1 was instantly admitted to him4 ,he was a dusky1 diminutive person1 between fifty and sixty years of age1 with false hair and teeth1 but exceedingly gentlemanly manners4 ,he received me with great affability1 and thanked me for my present2 but on my proceeding to speak of the ,new ,testament1 he told me that the subject was surrounded with difficulties1 and that the great body of the clergy had taken up the matter against me2 he conjured me1 however1 to be patient and peaceable1 in which case he said he would endeavour to devise some plan to satisfy me4 ,amongst other things1 he observed that the bishops hated a sectarian more than an atheist4 ,whereupon ,i replied1 that1 like the ,pharisees of old1 they cared more for the gold of the temple than the temple itself4 ,throughout the whole of our interview he evidently laboured under great fear1 and was continually looking behind and around him1 seemingly in dread of being overheard1 which brought to my mind an expression of a friend of mine1 that if there be any truth in metempsychosis1 the soul of ,count ,ofalia must have originally belonged to a mouse4 ,we parted in kindness1 and ,i went away1 wondering by what strange chance this poor man had become prime minister of a country like ,spain4 ,,chapter ,,xxxix4 ,the ,two ,gospels--,the ,alguazil--,the ,warrant--,the ,good ,maria--,the ,arrest--,sent to ,prison--,reflections--,the ,reception--,the ,prison ,room--,redress demanded4 ,at length the ,gospel of ,saint ,luke in the gypsy language was in a state of readiness4 ,i therefore deposited a certain number of copies in the despacho1 and announced them for sale4 ,the ,basque1 which was by this time also printed1 was likewise advertised4 ,for this last work there was little demand4 ,not so1 however1 for the gypsy ,luke1 of which ,i could easily have disposed of the whole edition in less than a fortnight4 ,long1 however1 before this period had expired the clergy were up in arms4 8,sorcery60 said one bishop4 8,there is more in this than we can dive into10 exclaimed a second4 8,he will convert all ,spain by means of the gypsy language10 cried a third4 ,and then came the usual chorus on such occasions1 of ,que infamia6 ,que picardia6 ,at last1 having consulted together1 away they hurried to their tool the corregidor or1 according to the modern term1 the gefe politico #abg of ,madrid4 ,i have forgotten the name of this worthy1 of whom ,i had myself no personal knowledge whatever4 ,judging from his actions1 however1 and from common report1 ,i should say that he was a stupid1 wrong-headed creature1 savage withal--a mlange of borrico1 mule1 and wolf4 ,having an inveterate antipathy to all foreigners1 he lent a willing ear to the complaint of my accusers1 and forthwith gave orders to make a seizure of all the copies of the gypsy ,gospel which could be found in the despacho4 ,the consequence was1 that a numerous body of alguazils directed their steps to the ,calle del ,principe2 some thirty copies of the book in question were pounced upon1 and about the same number of ,saint ,luke in ,basque4 ,with this spoil these satellites returned in triumph to the gefatura politica1 where they divided the copies of the gypsy volume amongst themselves1 selling subsequently the greater number at a large price1 the book being in the greatest demand1 and thus becoming unintentionally agents of an heretical society4 ,but every one must live by his trade1 say these people1 and they lose no opportunity of making their words good1 by disposing to the best advantage of any booty which falls into their hands4 ,as no person cared about the ,basque ,gospel1 it was safely stowed away1 with other unmarketable captures1 in the warehouses of the office4 ,the gypsy ,gospels had now been seized1 at least as many as were exposed for sale in the despacho4 ,the corregidor and his friends1 however1 were of opinion that many more might be obtained by means of a little management4 ,fellows1 therefore1 hangers on of the police-office1 were daily despatched to the shop in all kinds of disguises1 inquiring1 with great seeming anxiety1 for 8gypsy books10 and offering high prices for copies4 ,they1 however1 returned to their employers empty-handed4 ,my ,gallegan was on his guard1 informing all who made inquiries1 that books of no description would be sold at the establishment for the present4 ,which was in truth the case1 as ,i had given him particular orders to sell no more under any pretence whatever4 ,i got no credit1 however1 for my frank dealing4 ,the corregidor and his confederates could not persuade themselves but that1 by some means mysterious and unknown to them1 ,i was daily selling hundreds of these gypsy books1 which were to revolutionize the country1 and annihilate the power of the ,father of ,rome4 ,a plan was therefore resolved upon1 by means of which they hoped to have an opportunity of placing me in a position which would incapacitate me for some time from taking any active measures to circulate the ,scriptures1 either in gypsy or in any other language4 ,it was on the morning of the first of ,may1 #abi;a #ahch1 if ,i forget not1 that an unknown individual made his appearance in my apartment as ,i was seated at breakfast2 he was a mean-looking fellow1 about the middle stature1 with a countenance on which knave was written in legible characters4 ,the hostess ushered him in1 and then withdrew4 ,i did not like the appearance of my visitor1 but assuming some degree of courtesy1 ,i requested him to sit down1 and demanded his business4 8,i come from his excellency the political #abi;b chief of ,madrid10 he replied1 8and my business is to inform you that his excellency is perfectly aware of your proceedings1 and is at any time able to prove that you are still disposing of in secret those evil books which you have been forbidden to sell40 8,is he so80 ,i replied2 8pray let him do so forthwith2 but what need of giving me information80 8,perhaps10 continued the fellow1 8you think his worship has no witnesses2 know1 however1 that he has many1 and respectable ones too40 8,doubtless10 ,i replied1 8and from the respectability of your own appearance1 you are perhaps one of them4 ,but you are occupying my time unprofitably2 begone1 therefore1 and tell whoever sent you1 that ,i have by no means a high opinion of his wisdom40 8,i shall go when ,i please10 retorted the fellow2 8do you know to whom you are speaking8 ,are you aware that if ,i think fit ,i can search your apartment1 yes1 even below your bed8 ,what have we here10 he continued1 and commenced with his stick poking a heap of papers which lay upon a chair2 8what have we here8 ,are these also papers of the gypsies80 ,i instantly determined upon submitting no longer to this behaviour1 and taking the fellow by the arm1 led him out of the apartment2 and then1 still holding him1 conducted him downstairs from the third floor in which ,i lived1 into the street1 looking him steadfastly in the face the whole while4 ,the fellow had left his sombrero on the table1 which ,i despatched to him by the landlady1 who delivered it into his hand as he stood in the street staring with distended eyes at the balcony of my apartment4 8,a trampa has been laid for you1 ,don ,jorge10 said ,maria ,diaz1 when she had re-ascended from the street2 8that corchete came here with no other intention than to have a dispute with you4 ,out of every word you have said he will make a long history1 as is the custom with these people2 indeed1 he said1 as ,i handed him his hat1 that ere twenty-four hours were over1 you should see the inside of the prison of ,madrid40 ,in effect1 during the course of the morning1 ,i was told that a warrant had been issued for my apprehension4 ,the prospect of incarceration1 however1 did not fill me with much dismay2 an adventurous life and inveterate habits of wandering having long familiarized me to situations of every kind1 so much so as to feel myself quite as comfortable in a prison as in the gilded chambers of palaces2 indeed1 more so1 as in the former place ,i can always add to my store of useful information1 whereas in the latter1 ennui frequently assails me4 ,i had1 moreover1 been thinking for some time past of paying a visit to the prison1 partly in the hope of being able to say a few words of ,christian instruction to the criminals1 and partly with the view of making certain investigations in the robber language of ,spain1 a subject about which ,i had long felt much curiosity2 indeed1 ,i had already made application for admittance into the ,carcel de la ,corte1 #aca but had found the matter surrounded with difficulties1 as my friend ,ofalia would have said4 ,i rather rejoiced1 then1 in the opportunity which was now about to present itself of entering the prison1 not in the character of a visitor for an hour1 but as a martyr1 and as one suffering in the holy cause of religion4 ,i was determined1 however1 to disappoint my enemies for that day at least1 and to render null the threat of the alguazil1 that ,i should be imprisoned within twenty-four hours4 ,i therefore took up my abode for the rest of the day in a celebrated ,french tavern in the ,calle del ,caballero de ,gracia1 which1 as it was one of the most fashionable and public places in ,madrid1 ,i naturally concluded was one of the last where the corregidor would think of seeking me4 ,about ten at night1 ,maria ,diaz1 to whom ,i had communicated the place of my retreat1 arrived with her son1 ,juan ,lopez4 8,o1 seor10 said she1 on seeing me1 8they are already in quest of you2 the alcalde of the barrio1 with a large comitiva of alguazils and such-like people1 have just been at our house with a warrant for your imprisonment from the corregidor4 ,they searched the whole house1 and were much disappointed at not finding you4 ,woe is me1 what will they do when they catch you80 8,be under no apprehensions1 good ,maria10 said ,i2 8you forget that ,i am an ,englishman1 and so it seems does the corregidor4 ,whenever he catches me1 depend upon it he will be glad enough to let me go4 ,for the present1 however1 we will permit him to follow his own course1 for the spirit of folly seems to have seized him40 ,i slept at the tavern1 and in the forenoon of the following day repaired to the ,embassy1 where ,i had an interview with ,sir ,george1 to whom ,i related every circumstance of the affair4 ,he said that he could scarcely believe that the corregidor entertained any serious intentions of imprisoning me2 in the first place1 because ,i had committed no offence2 and in the second1 because ,i was not under the jurisdiction of that functionary1 but under that of the captain-general1 who was alone empowered to decide upon matters which relate to foreigners1 and before whom ,i must be brought in the presence of the consul of my nation4 8,however10 said he1 8there is no knowing to what length these jacks in office may go4 ,i therefore advise you1 if you are under any apprehension1 to remain as my guest at the ,embassy for a few days1 for here you will be quite safe40 ,i assured him that ,i was under no apprehension whatever1 having long been accustomed to adventures of this kind4 ,from the apartment of ,sir ,george ,i proceeded to that of the first secretary of embassy1 ,mr4 ,southern1 with whom ,i entered into conversation4 ,i had scarcely been there a minute when my servant ,francisco rushed in1 much out of breath1 and in violent agitation1 exclaiming in ,basque1 8,niri jauna1 the alguaziloac1 and the corchetoac1 and all the other lapurrac #acc are again at the house4 ,they seem half mad1 and not being able to find you1 are searching your papers1 thinking1 ,i suppose1 that you are hid among them40 ,mr4 ,southern here interrupting him1 inquired of me what all this meant4 ,whereupon ,i told him1 saying at the same time1 that it was my intention to proceed at once to my lodgings4 8,but perhaps these fellows will arrest you10 said ,mr4 ,s41 8before we can interfere40 8,i must take my chance as to that10 ,i replied1 and presently afterwards departed4 ,ere1 however1 ,i had reached the middle of the street of ,alcal1 two fellows came up to me1 and telling me that ,i was their prisoner1 commanded me to follow them to the office of the corregidor4 ,they were1 in fact1 alguazils1 who1 suspecting that ,i might enter or come out of the ,embassy1 had stationed themselves in the neighbourhood4 ,i instantly turned round to ,francisco1 and told him in ,basque to return to the ,embassy1 and to relate there to the secretary what had just occurred4 ,the poor fellow set off like lightning1 turning half round1 however1 to shake his fist1 and to vent a ,basque execration at the two lapurrac1 as he called the alguazils4 ,they conducted me to the gefatura1 or office of the corregidor1 where they ushered me into a large room1 and motioned me to sit down on a wooden bench4 ,they then stationed themselves on each side of me4 ,there were at least twenty people in the apartment beside ourselves1 evidently from their appearance officials of the establishment4 ,they were all well dressed1 for the most part in the ,french fashion1 in round hats1 coats1 and pantaloons1 and yet they looked what in reality they were1 ,spanish alguazils1 spies1 and informers3 and ,gil ,blas1 could he have waked from his sleep of two centuries1 would1 notwithstanding the change of fashion1 have had no difficulty in recognizing them4 ,they glanced at me as they stood lounging about the room2 then gathered themselves together in a circle and began conversing in whispers4 ,i heard one of them say1 8,he understands the seven gypsy jargons40 #acd;a ,then presently another1 evidently from his language an ,andalusian1 said1 8,es muy diestro1 #acd;b and can ride a horse and dart a knife full as well as if he came from my own country40 ,thereupon they all turned round and regarded me with a species of interest1 evidently mingled with respect1 which most assuredly they would not have exhibited had they conceived that ,i was merely an honest man bearing witness in a righteous cause4 ,i waited patiently on the bench at least one hour1 expecting every moment to be summoned before my lord the corregidor4 ,i suppose1 however1 that ,i was not deemed worthy of being permitted to see so exalted a personage1 for at the end of that time1 an elderly man--one1 however1 of the alguazil genus--came into the room and advanced directly towards me4 8,stand up10 said he4 ,i obeyed4 8,what is your name80 he demanded4 ,i told him4 8,then10 he replied1 exhibiting a paper which he held in his hand1 8seor1 it is the will of his excellency the corregidor1 that you be forthwith sent to prison40 ,he looked at me steadfastly as he spoke1 perhaps expecting that ,i should sink into the earth at the formidable name of prison2 ,i1 however1 only smiled4 ,he then delivered the paper1 which ,i suppose was the warrant for my committal1 into the hand of one of my two captors1 and obeying a sign which they made1 ,i followed them4 ,i subsequently learned that the secretary of legation1 ,mr4 ,southern1 had been despatched by ,sir ,george1 as soon as the latter had obtained information of my arrest1 and had been waiting at the office during the greater part of the time that ,i was there4 ,he had demanded an audience of the corregidor1 in which he had intended to have remonstrated with him1 and pointed out to him the danger to which he was subjecting himself by the rash step which he was taking4 ,the sullen functionary1 however1 had refused to see him1 thinking1 perhaps1 that to listen to reason would be a dereliction of dignity2 by this conduct1 however1 he most effectually served me1 as no person1 after such a specimen of uncalled-for insolence1 felt disposed to question the violence and injustice which had been practised towards me4 ,the alguazils conducted me across the ,plaza ,mayor to the ,carcel de la ,corte1 or prison of the court1 as it is called4 ,whilst going across the square1 ,i remembered that this was the place where1 in 8the good old times10 the ,inquisition of ,spain was in the habit of holding its solemn ,autos da f1 and ,i cast my eye to the balcony of the city hall1 where at the most solemn of them all1 the last of the ,austrian line in ,spain sat1 and after some thirty heretics1 of both sexes1 had been burnt by fours and by fives1 wiped his face1 perspiring with heat1 and black with smoke1 and calmly inquired1 8,no hay mas80 #acf for which exemplary proof of patience he was much applauded by his priests and confessors1 who subsequently poisoned him4 8,and here am ,i10 thought ,i1 8who have done more to wound ,popery than all the poor ,christian martyrs that ever suffered in this accursed square1 merely sent to prison1 from which ,i am sure to be liberated in a few days1 with credit and applause4 ,pope of ,rome6 ,i believe you to be as malicious as ever1 but you are sadly deficient in power4 ,you are become paralytic1 ,batuschca1 and your club has degenerated to a crutch40 ,we arrived at the prison1 which stands in a narrow street not far from the great square4 ,we entered a dusky passage1 at the end of which was a wicket door4 ,my conductors knocked1 a fierce visage peered through the wicket2 there was an exchange of words1 and in a few moments ,i found myself within the prison of ,madrid1 in a kind of corridor which overlooked at a considerable altitude what appeared to be a court1 from which arose a hubbub of voices1 and occasionally wild shouts and cries4 ,within the corridor1 which served as a kind of office1 were several people2 one of them sat behind a desk1 and to him the alguazils went up1 and after discoursing with him some time in low tones1 delivered the warrant into his hands4 ,he perused it with attention1 then rising he advanced to me4 ,what a figure6 ,he was about forty years of age1 and his height might have amounted to some six feet two inches1 had he not been curved much after the fashion of the letter ,s4 ,no weazel ever appeared lanker1 and he looked as if a breath of air would have been sufficient to blow him away4 ,his face might certainly have been called handsome1 had it not been for its extraordinary and portentous meagreness2 his nose was like an eagle's bill1 his teeth white as ivory1 his eyes black--oh1 how black6--and fraught with a strange expression2 his skin was dark1 and the hair of his head like the plumage of the raven4 ,a deep quiet smile dwelt continually on his features2 but with all the quiet it was a cruel smile1 such a one as would have graced the countenance of a ,nero4 8,mais en revanche personne n'toit plus honnte04 8,caballero10 said he1 8allow me to introduce myself to you as the alcayde of this prison4 ,i perceive by this paper that ,i am to have the honour of your company for a time1 a short time doubtless1 beneath this roof2 ,i hope you will banish every apprehension from your mind4 ,i am charged to treat you with all the respect which is due to the illustrious nation to which you belong1 and which a cavalier of such exalted category as yourself is entitled to expect4 ,a needless charge1 it is true1 as ,i should only have been too happy of my own accord to have afforded you every comfort and attention4 ,caballero1 you will rather consider yourself here as a guest than a prisoner2 you will be permitted to roam over every part of this house whenever you think proper4 ,you will find matters here not altogether below the attention of a philosophic mind4 ,pray issue whatever commands you may think fit to the turnkeys and officials1 even as if they were your own servants1 ,i will now have the honour of conducting you to your apartment--the only one at present unoccupied4 ,we invariably reserve it for cavaliers of distinction4 ,i am happy to say that my orders are again in consonance with my inclination4 ,no charge whatever will be made for it to you1 though the daily hire of it is not unfrequently an ounce of gold4 ,i entreat you1 therefore1 to follow me1 cavalier1 who am at all times and seasons the most obedient and devoted of your servants40 ,here he took off his hat and bowed profoundly4 ,such was the speech of the alcayde of the prison of ,madrid2 a speech delivered in pure sonorous ,castilian1 with calmness1 gravity1 and almost with dignity2 a speech which would have done honour to a gentleman of high birth1 to ,monsieur ,bassompierre1 of the ,old ,bastile1 receiving an ,italian prince1 or the ,high ,constable of the ,tower an ,english duke attainted of high treason4 ,now1 who in the name of wonder was this alcayde8 ,one of the greatest rascals in all ,spain4 ,a fellow who had more than once1 by his grasping cupidity1 and by his curtailment of the miserable rations of the prisoners1 caused an insurrection in the court below1 only to be repressed by bloodshed1 and by summoning military aid2 a fellow of low birth1 who1 only five years previous1 had been drummer to a band of royalist volunteers6 ,but ,spain is the land of extraordinary characters4 ,i followed the alcayde to the end of the corridor1 where was a massive grated door1 on each side of which sat a grim fellow of a turnkey4 ,the door was opened1 and turning to the right we proceeded down another corridor1 in which were many people walking about1 whom ,i subsequently discovered to be prisoners like myself1 but for political offences4 ,at the end of this corridor1 which extended the whole length of the patio1 we turned into another1 and the first apartment in this was the one destined for myself4 ,it was large and lofty1 but totally destitute of every species of furniture with the exception of a huge wooden pitcher1 intended to hold my daily allowance of water4 8,caballero10 said the alcayde1 8the apartment is without furniture1 as you see4 ,it is already the third hour of the tarde1 ,i therefore advise you to lose no time in sending to your lodgings for a bed and whatever you may stand in need of2 the llavero shall do your bidding4 ,caballero1 adieu1 till ,i see you again40 ,i followed his advice1 and1 writing a note in pencil to ,maria ,diaz1 ,i despatched it by the llavero1 and then1 sitting down on the wooden pitcher1 ,i fell into a reverie1 which continued for a considerable time4 ,night arrived1 and so did ,maria ,diaz1 attended by two porters and ,francisco1 all loaded with furniture4 ,a lamp was lighted1 charcoal was kindled in the brasero1 and the prison gloom was to a certain degree dispelled4 ,i now left my seat on the pitcher1 and sitting down on a chair1 proceeded to despatch some wine and viands1 which my good hostess had not forgotten to bring with her4 ,suddenly ,mr4 ,southern entered4 ,he laughed heartily at finding me engaged in the manner ,i have described4 8,b---10 said he1 8you are the man to get through the world1 for you appear to take all things coolly1 and as matters of course4 ,that1 however1 which most surprises me with respect to you is1 your having so many friends2 here you are in prison1 surrounded by people ministering to your comforts4 ,your very servant is your friend1 instead of being your worst enemy1 as is usually the case4 ,that ,basque of yours is a noble fellow4 ,i shall never forget how he spoke for you1 when he came running to the ,embassy to inform us of your arrest4 ,he interested both ,sir ,george and myself in the highest degree3 should you ever wish to part with him1 ,i hope you will give me the refusal of his services4 ,but now to other matters40 ,he then informed me that ,sir ,george had already sent in an official note to ,ofalia1 demanding redress for such a wanton outrage on the person of a ,british subject4 8,you must remain in prison10 said he1 8to-night1 but depend upon it that to-morrow1 if you are disposed1 you may quit in triumph40 8,i am by no means disposed for any such thing10 ,i replied4 8,they have put me in prison for their pleasure1 and ,i intend to remain here for my own40 8,if the confinement is not irksome to you10 said ,mr4 ,southern1 8,i think1 indeed1 it will be your wisest plan2 the government have committed themselves sadly with regard to you2 and1 to speak plainly1 we are by no means sorry for it4 ,they have on more than one occasion treated ourselves very cavalierly1 and we have now1 if you continue firm1 an excellent opportunity of humbling their insolence4 ,i will instantly acquaint ,sir ,george with your determination1 and you shall hear from us early on the morrow40 ,he then bade me farewell2 and flinging myself on my bed1 ,i was soon asleep in the prison of ,madrid4 ,,chapter ,,xl4 ,ofalia--,the ,juez--,carcel de la ,corte--,sunday in ,prison--,robber ,dress--,father and ,son--,characteristic ,behaviour--,the ,frenchman--,prison ,allowance--,valley of the ,shadow--,pure ,castilian--,balseiro--,the ,cave--,robber ,glory4 ,ofalia quickly perceived that the imprisonment of a ,british subject in a manner so illegal as that which had attended my own was likely to be followed by rather serious consequences4 ,whether he himself had at all encouraged the corregidor in his behaviour towards me1 it is impossible to say2 the probability is that he had not3 the latter1 however1 was an officer of his own appointing1 for whose actions himself and the government were to a certain extent responsible4 ,sir ,george had already made a very strong remonstrance upon the subject1 and had even gone so far as to state in an official note that he should desist from all farther communication with the ,spanish government until full and ample reparation had been afforded me for the violence to which ,i had been subjected4 ,ofalia's reply was1 that immediate measures should be taken for my liberation1 and that it would be my own fault if ,i remained in prison4 ,he forthwith ordered a juez de la primera instancia1 #ada a kind of solicitor-general1 to wait upon me1 who was instructed to hear my account of the affair1 and then to dismiss me with an admonition to be cautious for the future4 ,my friends of the ,embassy1 however1 had advised me how to act in such a case4 ,accordingly1 when the juez on the second night of my imprisonment made his appearance at the prison1 and summoned me before him1 ,i went1 but on his proceeding to question me1 ,i absolutely refused to answer4 8,i deny your right to put any questions to me10 said ,i2 8,i entertain1 however1 no feelings of disrespect to the government or to yourself1 ,caballero ,juez2 but ,i have been illegally imprisoned4 ,so accomplished a jurist as yourself cannot fail to be aware that1 according to the laws of ,spain1 ,i1 as a foreigner1 could not be committed to prison for the offence with which ,i had been charged1 without previously being conducted before the captain-general of this royal city1 whose duty it is to protect foreigners1 and see that the laws of hospitality are not violated in their persons4 ,juez4--,come1 come1 ,don ,jorge1 ,i see what you are aiming at2 but listen to reason3 ,i will not now speak to you as a juez1 but as a friend who wishes you well1 and who entertains a profound reverence for the ,british nation4 ,this is a foolish affair altogether2 ,i will not deny that the political chief acted somewhat hastily on the information of a person not perhaps altogether worthy of credit4 ,no great damage1 however1 has been done to you1 and to a man of the world like yourself1 a little adventure of this kind is rather calculated to afford amusement than anything else4 ,now be advised1 forget what has happened2 you know that it is the part and duty of a ,christian to forgive4 ,so1 ,don ,jorge1 ,i advise you to leave this place forthwith2 ,i dare say you are getting tired of it4 ,you are this moment free to depart2 repair at once to your lodgings1 where ,i promise you that no one shall be permitted to interrupt you for the future4 ,it is getting late1 and the prison doors will speedily be closed for the night4 ,vamos1 ,don ,jorge1 la casa1 la posada6 #adc;a ,myself4--8,but ,paul said unto them1 they have beaten us openly uncondemned1 being ,romans1 and have cast us into prison2 and now do they thrust us out privily8 ,nay1 verily3 but let them come themselves and fetch us out40 #adc;b ,i then bowed to the juez1 who shrugged his shoulders and took snuff4 ,on leaving the apartment ,i turned to the alcayde1 who stood at the door3 8,take notice10 said ,i1 8that ,i will not quit this prison till ,i have received full satisfaction for being sent hither uncondemned4 ,you may expel me if you please1 but any attempt to do so shall be resisted with all the bodily strength of which ,i am possessed40 8,your worship is right10 said the alcayde1 with a bow1 but in a low voice4 ,sir ,george1 on hearing of this affair1 sent me a letter in which he highly commended my resolution not to leave the prison for the present1 at the same time begging me to let him know if there were anything that he could send me from the ,embassy to render my situation more tolerable4 ,i will now leave for the present my own immediate affairs1 and proceed to give some account of the prison of ,madrid and its inmates4 ,the ,carcel de la ,corte1 where ,i now was1 though the principal prison of ,madrid1 is one which certainly in no respect does credit to the capital of ,spain4 ,whether it was originally intended for the purpose to which it is at present applied1 ,i have no opportunity of knowing4 ,the chances1 however1 are1 that it was not2 indeed it was not till of late years that the practice of building edifices expressly intended and suited for the incarceration of culprits came at all into vogue4 ,castles1 convents1 and deserted palaces1 have in all countries1 at different times1 been converted into prisons1 which practice still holds good upon the greater part of the continent1 and more particularly in ,spain and ,italy1 which accounts to a certain extent for the insecurity of the prisons1 and the misery1 want of cleanliness1 and unhealthiness which in general pervade them4 ,i shall not attempt to enter into a particular description of the prison of ,madrid2 indeed it would be quite impossible to describe so irregular and rambling an edifice4 ,its principal features consisted of two courts1 the one behind the other3 intended for the great body of the prisoners to take air and recreation in4 ,three large vaulted dungeons1 or calabozos1 occupied three sides of this court1 immediately below the corridors of which ,i have already spoken4 ,these dungeons were roomy enough to contain respectively from one hundred to one hundred and fifty prisoners1 who were at night secured therein with lock and bar1 but during the day were permitted to roam about the courts as they thought fit4 ,the second court was considerably larger than the first1 though it contained but two dungeons1 horribly filthy and disgusting places2 this second court being used for the reception of the lower grades of thieves4 ,of the two dungeons one was1 if possible1 yet more horrible than the other2 it was called the gallineria1 or chicken-coop1 and within it every night were pent up the young fry of the prison1 wretched boys from seven to fifteen years of age1 the greater part almost in a state of nudity4 ,the common bed of all the inmates of these dungeons was the ground1 between which and their bodies nothing intervened1 save occasionally a manta or horse-cloth1 or perhaps a small mattress2 this latter luxury was1 however1 of exceedingly rare occurrence4 ,besides the calabozos connected with the courts were other dungeons in various parts of the prison2 some of them quite dark1 intended for the reception of those whom it might be deemed expedient to treat with peculiar severity4 ,there was likewise a ward set apart for females4 ,connected with the principal corridor were many small apartments1 where resided prisoners confined for debt or for political offences4 ,and1 lastly1 there was a small capilla1 or chapel1 in which prisoners cast for death passed the last three days of their existence in company of their ghostly advisers4 ,i shall not soon forget my first ,sunday in prison1 ,sunday is the gala day of the prison1 at least of that of ,madrid1 and whatever robber finery is to be found within it is sure to be exhibited on that day of holiness4 ,there is not a set of people in the world more vain than robbers in general1 more fond of cutting a figure whenever they have an opportunity1 and of attracting the eyes of their fellow-creatures by the gallantry of their appearance4 ,the famous ,sheppard of olden times delighted in sporting a suit of ,genoese velvet1 and when he appeared in public generally wore a silver-hilted sword at his side2 whilst ,vaux and ,hayward1 heroes of a later day1 were the best dressed men on the pav of ,london4 ,many of the ,italian bandits go splendidly decorated1 and the very gypsy robber has a feeling for the charms of dress2 the cap alone of the ,haram ,pasha1 or leader of the cannibal gypsy band which infested ,hungary towards the conclusion of the last century1 was adorned with gold and jewels to the value of four thousand guilders4 ,observe1 ye vain and frivolous1 how vanity and crime harmonize6 ,the ,spanish robbers are as fond of this species of display as their brethren of other lands1 and1 whether in prison or out of it1 are never so happy as when1 decked out in a profusion of white linen1 they can loll in the sun1 or walk jauntily up and down4 ,snow-white linen1 indeed1 constitutes the principal feature in the robber foppery of ,spain4 ,neither coat nor jacket is worn over the shirt1 the sleeves of which are wide and flowing1 only a waistcoat of green or blue silk with an abundance of silver buttons1 which are intended more for show than use1 as the vest is seldom buttoned4 ,then there are wide trousers1 something after the ,turkish fashion2 around the waist is a crimson faja1 or girdle1 and about the head is tied a gaudily coloured handkerchief from the loom of ,barcelona2 light pumps and silk stockings complete the robber's array4 ,this dress is picturesque enough1 and well adapted to the fine sunshiny weather of the ,peninsula2 there is a dash of effeminacy about it1 however1 hardly in keeping with the robber's desperate trade4 ,it must not1 however1 be supposed that it is every robber who can indulge in all this luxury2 there are various grades of thieves1 some poor enough1 with scarcely a rag to cover them4 ,perhaps in the crowded prison of ,madrid there were not more than twenty who exhibited the dress which ,i have attempted to describe above2 these were jente de reputacion1 #adf tip-top thieves1 mostly young fellows1 who1 though they had no money of their own1 were supported in prison by their majas and amigas1 #adg;a females of a certain class1 who form friendships with robbers1 and whose glory and delight it is to administer to the vanity of these fellows with the wages of their own shame and abasement4 ,these females supplied their cortejos with the snowy linen1 washed1 perhaps1 by their own hands in the waters of the ,manzanares1 for the display of the ,sunday1 when they would themselves make their appearance1 dressed la maja1 and from the corridors would gaze with admiring eyes upon the robbers vapouring about in the court below4 ,amongst those of the snowy linen who most particularly attracted my attention1 were a father and son2 the former was a tall athletic figure of about thirty1 by profession a housebreaker1 and celebrated throughout ,madrid for the peculiar dexterity which he exhibited in his calling4 ,he was now in prison for a rather atrocious murder committed in the dead of night1 in a house at ,caramanchel1 #adg;b in which his only accomplice was his son1 a child under seven years of age4 8,the apple10 as the ,danes say1 8had not fallen far from the tree20 the imp was in every respect the counterpart of the father1 though in miniature4 ,he1 too1 wore the robber shirt-sleeves1 the robber waistcoat with the silver buttons1 the robber kerchief round his brow1 and1 ridiculous enough1 a long ,manchegan knife in the crimson faja4 ,he was evidently the pride of the ruffian father1 who took all imaginable care of this chick of the gallows1 would dandle him on his knee1 and would occasionally take the cigar from his own moustached lips and insert it in the urchin's mouth4 ,the boy was the pet of the court1 for the father was one of the valientes of the prison1 and those who feared his prowess1 and wished to pay their court to him1 were always fondling the child4 ,what an enigma is this world of ours6 ,how dark and mysterious are the sources of what is called crime and virtue6 ,if that infant wretch become eventually a murderer like his father1 is he to blame8 ,fondled by robbers1 already dressed as a robber1 born of a robber1 whose own history was perhaps similar4 ,is it right8 4 4 4 ,oh1 man1 man1 seek not to dive into the mystery of moral good and evil2 confess thyself a worm1 cast thyself on the earth1 and murmur with thy lips in the dust1 ,jesus1 ,jesus6 ,what most surprised me with respect to the prisoners was their good behaviour2 ,i call it good when all things are taken into consideration1 and when ,i compare it with that of the general class of prisoners in foreign lands4 ,they had their occasional bursts of wild gaiety1 their occasional quarrels1 which they were in the habit of settling in a corner of the interior court with their long knives2 #adh the result not unfrequently being death1 or a dreadful gash in the face or the abdomen2 but1 upon the whole1 their conduct was infinitely superior to what might have been expected from the inmates of such a place4 ,yet this was not the result of coercion1 or any particular care which was exercised over them2 for perhaps in no part of the world are prisoners so left to themselves and so utterly neglected as in ,spain3 the authorities having no farther anxiety about them than to prevent their escape2 not the slightest attention being paid to their moral conduct1 and not a thought bestowed upon their health1 comfort1 or mental improvement1 whilst within the walls4 ,yet in this prison of ,madrid1 and ,i may say in ,spanish prisons in general1 for ,i have been an inmate of more than one1 #adi the ears of the visitor are never shocked with horrid blasphemy and obscenity1 as in those of some other countries1 and more particularly in civilized ,france2 nor are his eyes outraged and himself insulted1 as he would assuredly be1 were he to look down upon the courts from the galleries of the ,bictre4 ,and yet in this prison of ,madrid were some of the most desperate characters in ,spain2 ruffians who had committed acts of cruelty and atrocity sufficient to make the flesh shudder4 ,but gravity and sedateness are the leading characteristics of the ,spaniards1 and the very robber1 except in those moments when he is engaged in his occupation1 and then no one is more sanguinary1 pitiless1 and wolfishly eager for booty1 is a being who can be courteous and affable1 and who takes pleasure in conducting himself with sobriety and decorum4 ,happily1 perhaps1 for me1 that my acquaintance with the ruffians of ,spain commenced and ended in the towns about which ,i wandered1 and in the prisons into which ,i was cast for the ,gospel's sake1 and that1 notwithstanding my long and frequent journeys1 ,i never came in contact with them on the road or in the despoblado4 ,the most ill-conditioned being in the prison was a ,frenchman1 though probably the most remarkable4 ,he was about sixty years of age1 of the middle stature1 but thin and meagre1 like most of his countrymen2 he had a villanously formed head1 according to all the rules of craniology1 and his features were full of evil expression4 ,he wore no hat1 and his clothes1 though in appearance nearly new1 were of the coarsest description4 ,he generally kept aloof from the rest1 and would stand for hours together leaning against the walls with his arms folded1 glaring sullenly on what was passing before him4 ,he was not one of the professed valientes1 for his age prevented his assuming so distinguished a character1 and yet all the rest appeared to hold him in a certain awe3 perhaps they feared his tongue1 which he occasionally exerted in pouring forth withering curses upon those who incurred his displeasure4 ,he spoke perfectly good ,spanish1 and to my great surprise excellent ,basque1 in which he was in the habit of conversing with ,francisco1 who1 lolling from the window of my apartment1 would exchange jests and witticisms with the prisoners in the court below1 with whom he was a great favourite4 ,one day when ,i was in the patio1 to which ,i had free admission whenever ,i pleased1 by permission of the alcayde1 ,i went up to the ,frenchman1 who stood in his usual posture1 leaning against the wall1 and offered him a cigar4 ,i do not smoke myself1 but it will never do to mix among the lower classes of ,spain unless you have a cigar to present occasionally4 ,the man glared at me ferociously for a moment1 and appeared to be on the point of refusing my offer with perhaps a hideous execration4 ,i repeated it1 however1 pressing my hand against my heart1 whereupon suddenly the grim features relaxed1 and with a genuine ,french grimace1 and a low bow1 he accepted the cigar1 exclaiming1 8,ah1 monsieur1 pardon1 mais c'est faire trop d'honneur un pauvre diable comme moi40 8,not at all10 said ,i1 8we are both fellow-prisoners in a foreign land1 and being so we ought to countenance each other4 ,i hope that whenever ,i have need of your co-operation in this prison you will afford it me40 8,ah1 monsieur10 exclaimed the ,frenchman in rapture1 8vous avez bien raison2 il faut que les trangers se donnent la main dans ce 4 4 4 pays de barbares4 ,tenez10 he added in a whisper1 8if you have any plan for escaping1 and require my assistance1 ,i have an arm and a knife at your service3 you may trust me1 and that is more than you could any of these sacres gens ici10 glancing fiercely round at his fellow-prisoners4 8,you appear to be no friend to ,spain and the ,spaniards10 said ,i4 8,i conclude that you have experienced injustice at their hands4 ,for what have they immured you in this place80 8,pour rien du tout1 c'est dire pour une bagatelle2 but what can you expect from such animals8 ,for what are you imprisoned8 ,did ,i not hear say for gypsyism and sorcery80 8,perhaps you are here for your opinions80 8,ah1 mon ,dieu1 non2 je ne suis pas homme semblable betise4 ,i have no opinions4 ,je faisois 4 4 4 mais ce n'importe2 je me trouve ici1 o je crve de faim40 8,i am sorry to see a brave man in such a distressed condition10 said ,i2 8have you nothing to subsist upon beyond the prison allowance8 ,have you no friends80 8,friends in this country8 ,you mock me2 here one has no friends1 unless one buy them4 ,i am bursting with hunger4 ,since ,i have been here ,i have sold the clothes off my back1 that ,i might eat1 for the prison allowance will not support nature1 and of half of that we are robbed by the ,batu1 as they called the barbarian of a governor4 ,les haillons which now cover me were given by two or three devotees who sometimes visit here4 ,i would sell them if they would fetch aught4 ,i have not a sou1 and for want of a few crowns ,i shall be garroted within a month unless ,i can escape1 though1 as ,i told you before1 ,i have done nothing1 a mere bagatelle2 but the worst crimes in ,spain are poverty and misery40 8,i have heard you speak ,basque2 are you from ,french ,biscay80 8,i am from ,bordeaux1 monsieur2 but ,i have lived much on the ,landes and in ,biscay1 travaillant mon mtier4 ,i see by your look that you wish to know my history4 ,i shall not tell it you4 ,it contains nothing that is remarkable4 ,see1 ,i have smoked out your cigar2 you may give me another1 and add a dollar if you please1 nous sommes crevs ici de faim4 ,i would not say as much to a ,spaniard1 but ,i have a respect for your countrymen2 ,i know much of them2 ,i have met them at ,maida and the other place40 #aeb 8,nothing remarkable in his history60 ,why1 or ,i greatly err1 one chapter of his life1 had it been written1 would have unfolded more of the wild and wonderful than fifty volumes of what are in general called adventures and hairbreadth escapes by land and sea4 ,a soldier6 what a tale could that man have told of marches and retreats1 of battles lost and won1 towns sacked1 convents plundered6 perhaps he had seen the flames of ,moscow ascending to the clouds1 and had 8tried his strength with nature in the wintry desert10 pelted by the snowstorm1 and bitten by the tremendous cold of ,russia4 ,and what could he mean by plying his trade in ,biscay and ,landes1 but that he had been a robber in those wild regions1 of which the latter is more infamous for brigandage and crime than any other part of the ,french territory8 ,nothing remarkable in his history6 then what history in the world contains aught that is remarkable8 ,i gave him the cigar and dollar4 ,he received them1 and then once more folding his arms1 leaned back against the wall1 and appeared to sink gradually into one of his reveries4 ,i looked him in the face and spoke to him1 but he did not seem either to hear or see me4 ,his mind was perhaps wandering in that dreadful valley of the shadow1 into which the children of earth1 whilst living1 occasionally find their way3 that dreadful region where there is no water1 where hope dwelleth not1 where nothing lives but the undying worm4 ,this valley is the facsimile of hell1 and he who has entered it has experienced here on earth for a time what the spirits of the condemned are doomed to suffer through ages without end4 ,he was executed about a month from this time4 ,the bagatelle for which he was confined was robbery and murder by the following strange device4 ,in concert with two others1 he hired a large house in an unfrequented part of the town1 to which place he would order tradesmen to convey valuable articles1 which were to be paid for on delivery2 those who attended paid for their credulity with the loss of their lives and property4 ,two or three had fallen into the snare4 ,i wished much to have had some private conversation with this desperate man1 and in consequence begged of the alcayde to allow him to dine with me in my own apartment2 whereupon ,monsieur ,bassompierre1 for so ,i will take the liberty of calling the governor1 his real name having escaped my memory1 took off his hat1 and1 with his usual smile and bow1 replied in purest ,castilian1 8,english cavalier1 and ,i hope ,i may add friend1 pardon me1 that it is quite out of my power to gratify your request1 founded1 ,i have no doubt1 on the most admirable sentiments of philosophy4 ,any of the other gentlemen beneath my care shall1 at any time you desire it1 be permitted to wait upon you in your apartment4 ,i will even go so far as to cause their irons1 if irons they wear1 to be knocked off in order that they may partake of your refection with that comfort which is seemly and convenient3 but to the gentleman in question ,i must object2 he is the most evil disposed of the whole of this family1 and would most assuredly breed a funcion either in your apartment or in the corridor1 by an attempt to escape4 ,cavalier1 me pesa1 #aed but ,i cannot accede to your request4 ,but with respect to any other gentleman1 ,i shall be most happy1 even ,balseiro1 who1 though strange things are told of him1 still knows how to comport himself1 and in whose behaviour there is something both of formality and politeness1 shall this day share your hospitality if you desire it1 cavalier40 ,of ,balseiro ,i have already had occasion to speak in the former part of this narrative4 ,he was now confined in an upper story of the prison1 in a strong room1 with several other malefactors4 ,he had been found guilty of aiding and assisting one ,pepe ,candelas1 a thief of no inconsiderable renown1 in a desperate robbery perpetrated in open daylight upon no less a personage than the queen's milliner1 a ,frenchwoman1 whom they bound in her own shop1 from which they took goods and money to the amount of five or six thousand dollars4 ,candelas had already expiated his crime on the scaffold1 but ,balseiro1 who was said to be by far the worst ruffian of the two1 had by dint of money1 an ally which his comrade did not possess1 contrived to save his own life2 the punishment of death1 to which he was originally sentenced1 having been commuted to twenty years' hard labour in the presidio of ,malaga4 ,i visited this worthy1 and conversed with him for some time through the wicket of the dungeon4 ,he recognized me1 and reminded me of the victory which ,i had once obtained over him1 in the trial of our respective skill in the crabbed ,gitano1 at which ,sevilla the bull-fighter was umpire4 ,upon my telling him that ,i was sorry to see him in such a situation1 he replied that it was an affair of no manner of consequence1 as within six weeks he should be conducted to the presidio1 from which1 with the assistance of a few ounces distributed amongst the guards1 he could at any time escape4 8,but whither would you flee80 ,i demanded4 8,can ,i not flee to the land of the ,moors10 replied ,balseiro1 8or to the ,english in the camp of ,gibraltar2 or1 if ,i prefer it1 cannot ,i return to this foro1 and live as ,i have hitherto done1 choring the gachos2 #aee what is to hinder me8 ,madrid is large1 and ,balseiro has plenty of friends1 especially among the lumias10 he added1 with a smile4 ,i spoke to him of his ill-fated accomplice ,candelas2 whereupon his face assumed a horrible expression4 8,i hope he is in torment10 exclaimed the robber4 ,the friendship of the unrighteous is never of long duration2 the two worthies had1 it seems1 quarrelled in prison2 ,candelas having accused the other of bad faith and an undue appropriation to his own use of the corpus delicti in various robberies which they had committed in company4 ,i cannot refrain from relating the subsequent history of this ,balseiro4 ,shortly after my own liberation1 too impatient to wait until the presidio should afford him a chance of regaining his liberty1 he1 in company with some other convicts1 broke through the roof of the prison and escaped4 ,he instantly resumed his former habits1 committing several daring robberies1 both within and without the walls of ,madrid4 ,i now come to his last1 ,i may call it his master crime1 a singular piece of atrocious villany4 ,dissatisfied with the proceeds of street robbery and house-breaking1 he determined upon a bold stroke1 by which he hoped to acquire money sufficient to support him in some foreign land in luxury and splendour4 ,there was a certain comptroller of the queen's household1 by name ,gabiria1 #aef a ,basque by birth1 and a man of immense possessions3 this individual had two sons1 handsome boys1 between twelve and fourteen years of age1 whom ,i had frequently seen1 and indeed conversed with1 in my walks on the bank of the ,manzanares1 which was their favourite promenade4 ,these children1 at the time of which ,i am speaking1 were receiving their education at a certain seminary in ,madrid4 ,balseiro1 being well acquainted with the father's affection for his children1 determined to make it subservient to his own rapacity4 ,he formed a plan1 which was neither more nor less than to steal the children1 and not to restore them to their parent until he had received an enormous ransom4 ,this plan was partly carried into execution3 two associates of ,balseiro1 well dressed1 drove up to the door of the seminary where the children were1 and1 by means of a forged letter1 purporting to be written by the father1 induced the schoolmaster to permit the boys to accompany them for a country jaunt1 as they pretended4 ,about five leagues from ,madrid ,balseiro had a cave1 in a wild unfrequented spot between the ,escurial and a village called ,torre ,lodones3 to this cave the children were conducted1 where they remained in durance under the custody of the two accomplices2 ,balseiro in the mean time remaining in ,madrid for the purpose of conducting negociations with the father4 ,the father1 however1 was a man of considerable energy1 and instead of acceding to the terms of the ruffian1 communicated in a letter1 instantly took the most vigorous measures for the recovery of his children4 ,horse and foot were sent out to scour the country1 and in less than a week the children were found near the cave1 having been abandoned by their keepers1 who had taken fright on hearing of the decided measures which had been resorted to2 they were1 however1 speedily arrested and identified by the boys as their ravishers4 ,balseiro1 perceiving that ,madrid was becoming too hot to hold him1 attempted to escape1 but whether to the camp of ,gibraltar or to the land of the ,moor1 ,i know not2 he was recognized1 however1 at a village in the neighbourhood of ,madrid1 and being apprehended1 was forthwith conducted to the capital1 where he shortly after terminated his existence on the scaffold1 with his two associates2 ,gabiria and his children being present at the ghastly scene1 which they surveyed from a chariot at their ease4 ,such was the end of ,balseiro1 of whom ,i should certainly not have said so much1 but for the affair of the crabbed ,gitano4 ,poor wretch6 he acquired that species of immortality which is the object of the aspirations of many a ,spanish thief1 whilst vapouring about in the patio1 dressed in the snowy linen2 the rape of the children of ,gabiria made him at once the pet of the fraternity4 ,a celebrated robber1 with whom ,i was subsequently imprisoned at ,seville1 spoke his eulogy in the following manner3-- 8,balseiro was a very good subject1 and an honest man4 ,he was the head of our family1 ,don ,jorge2 we shall never see his like again2 pity that he did not sack the parn1 and escape to the camp of the ,moor1 ,don ,jorge40 ,,chapter ,,xli4 ,maria ,diaz--,priestly ,vituperation--,antonio's ,visit--,antonio at ,service--,a ,scene--,benedict ,mol--,wandering in ,spain--,the ,four ,evangelien4 8,well10 said ,i to ,maria ,diaz1 on the third morning after my imprisonment1 8what do the people of ,madrid say to this affair of mine80 8,i do not know what the people of ,madrid in general say about it1 probably they do not take much interest in it2 indeed1 imprisonments at the present time are such common matters1 that people seem to be quite indifferent to them2 the priests1 however1 are in no slight commotion1 and confess that they have committed an imprudent thing in causing you to be arrested by their friend the corregidor of ,madrid40 8,how is that80 ,i inquired4 8,are they afraid that their friend will be punished80 8,not so1 seor10 replied ,maria2 8slight grief indeed would it cause them1 however great the trouble in which he had involved himself on their account2 for this description of people have no affection1 and would not care if all their friends were hanged1 provided they themselves escaped4 ,but they say that they have acted imprudently in sending you to prison1 inasmuch as by so doing they have given you an opportunity of carrying a plan of yours into execution4 #8,this fellow is a bribon1' say they1 #8and has commenced tampering with the prisoners2 they have taught him their language1 which he already speaks as well as if he were a son of the prison4 ,as soon as he comes out he will publish a thieves' ,gospel1 which will be a still more dangerous affair than the gypsy one1 for the gypsies are few1 but the thieves6 woe is us2 we shall all be ,lutheranized4 ,what infamy1 what rascality6 ,it was a trick of his own4 ,he was always eager to get into prison1 and now1 in evil hour1 we have sent him there1 el bribonazo2 there will be no safety for ,spain until he is hanged2 he ought to be sent to the four hells1 where at his leisure he might translate his fatal gospels into the language of the demons4'0 8,i but said three words to the alcayde of the prison10 said ,i1 8relative to the jargon used by the children of the prison40 8,three words6 ,don ,jorge2 and what may not be made out of three words8 ,you have lived amongst us to little purpose if you think we require more than three words to build a system with4 ,those three words about the thieves and their tongue were quite sufficient to cause it to be reported throughout ,madrid that you had tampered with the thieves1 had learnt their language1 and had written a book which was to overturn ,spain1 open to the ,english the gates of ,cadiz1 give ,mendizabal all the church plate and jewels1 and to ,don ,martin ,luther the archiepiscopal palace of ,toledo40 ,late in the afternoon of rather a gloomy day1 as ,i was sitting in the apartment which the alcayde had allotted me1 ,i heard a rap at the door4 8,who is that80 ,i exclaimed4 8,c'est moi1 mon matre10 cried a well-known voice1 and presently in walked ,antonio ,buchini1 dressed in the same style as when ,i first introduced him to the reader1 namely1 in a handsome but rather faded ,french surtout1 vest1 and pantaloons1 with a diminutive hat in one hand1 and holding in the other a long and slender cane4 8,bon jour1 mon matre10 said the ,greek2 then1 glancing around the apartment1 he continued1 8,i am glad to find you so well lodged4 ,if ,i remember right1 mon matre1 we have slept in worse places during our wanderings in ,galicia and ,castile40 8,you are quite right1 ,antonio10 ,i replied2 8,i am very comfortable4 ,well1 this is kind of you to visit your ancient master1 more especially now he is in the toils2 ,i hope1 however1 that by so doing you will not offend your present employer4 ,his dinner hour must be at hand2 why are you not in the kitchen80 8,of what employer are you speaking1 mon matre80 demanded ,antonio4 8,of whom should ,i speak but ,count ---1 to serve whom you abandoned me1 being tempted by an offer of a monthly salary less by four dollars than that which ,i was giving you80 8,your worship brings an affair to my remembrance which ,i had long since forgotten4 ,i have at present no other master than yourself1 ,monsieur ,georges1 for ,i shall always consider you as my master1 though ,i may not enjoy the felicity of waiting upon you40 8,you have left the ,count1 then10 said ,i1 8after remaining three days in the house1 according to your usual practice40 8,not three hours1 mon matre10 replied ,antonio2 8but ,i will tell you the circumstances4 ,soon after ,i left you ,i repaired to the house of ,monsieur le ,comte2 ,i entered the kitchen1 and looked about me4 ,i cannot say that ,i had much reason to be dissatisfied with what ,i saw3 the kitchen was large and commodious1 and everything appeared neat and in its proper place1 and the domestics civil and courteous2 yet1 ,i know not how it was1 the idea at once rushed into my mind that the house was by no means suited to me1 and that ,i was not destined to stay there long2 so1 hanging my haversack upon a nail1 and sitting down on the dresser1 ,i commenced singing a ,greek song1 as ,i am in the habit of doing when dissatisfied4 ,the domestics came about me1 asking questions4 ,i made them no answer1 however1 and continued singing till the hour for preparing the dinner drew nigh1 when ,i suddenly sprang on the floor1 and was not long in thrusting them all out of the kitchen1 telling them that they had no business there at such a season4 ,i then at once entered upon my functions4 ,i exerted myself1 mon matre--,i exerted myself1 and was preparing a repast which would have done me honour2 there was1 indeed1 some company expected that day1 and ,i therefore determined to show my employer that nothing was beyond the capacity of his ,greek cook4 ,eh bien1 mon matre1 all was going on remarkably well1 and ,i felt almost reconciled to my new situation1 when who should rush into the kitchen but le fils de la maison1 my young master1 an ugly urchin of thirteen years or thereabouts4 ,he bore in his hand a manchet of bread1 which1 after prying about for a moment1 he proceeded to dip in the pan where some delicate woodcocks were in the course of preparation4 ,you know1 mon matre1 how sensitive ,i am on certain points1 for ,i am no ,spaniard1 but a ,greek1 and have principles of honour4 ,without a moment's hesitation ,i took my young master by the shoulders1 and hurrying him to the door1 dismissed him in the manner which he deserved4 ,squalling loudly1 he hurried away to the upper part of the house4 ,i continued my labours1 but ere three minutes had elapsed1 ,i heard a dreadful confusion above stairs1 on faisoit une horrible tintamarre1 and ,i could occasionally distinguish oaths and execrations4 ,presently doors were flung open1 and there was an awful rushing downstairs1 a gallopade4 ,it was my lord the count1 his lady1 and my young master1 followed by a regular bevy of women and filles de chambre4 ,far in advance of all1 however1 was my lord with a drawn sword in his hand1 shouting1 #8,where is the wretch who has dishonoured my son1 where is he8 ,he shall die forthwith4' ,i know not how it was1 mon matre1 but ,i just then chanced to spill a large bowl of garbanzos1 which were intended for the puchera of the following day4 ,they were uncooked1 and were as hard as marbles2 these ,i dashed upon the floor1 and the greater part of them fell just about the doorway4 ,eh bien1 mon matre1 in another moment in bounded the count1 his eyes sparkling like coals1 and1 as ,i have already said1 with a rapier in his hand4 #8,tenez1 gueux enrag1' he screamed1 making a desperate lunge at me2 but ere the words were out of his mouth1 his foot slipping on the pease1 he fell forward with great violence at his full length1 and his weapon flew out of his hand1 comme une flche4 ,you should have heard the outcry which ensued--there was a terrible confusion3 the count lay upon the floor to all appearance stunned4 ,i took no notice1 however1 continuing busily employed4 ,they at last raised him up1 and assisted him till he came to himself1 though very pale and much shaken4 ,he asked for his sword3 all eyes were now turned upon me1 and ,i saw that a general attack was meditated4 ,suddenly ,i took a large casserole from the fire in which various eggs were frying2 this ,i held out at arm's length1 peering at it along my arm as if ,i were curiously inspecting it1 my right foot advanced and the other thrown back as far as possible4 ,all stood still1 imagining1 doubtless1 that ,i was about to perform some grand operation1 and so ,i was3 for suddenly the sinister leg advancing1 with one rapid coup de pied1 ,i sent the casserole and its contents flying over my head1 so that they struck the wall far behind me4 ,this was to let them know that ,i had broken my staff and had shaken the dust off my feet2 so casting upon the count the peculiar glance of the ,sceirote cooks when they feel themselves insulted1 and extending my mouth on either side nearly as far as the ears1 ,i took down my haversack and departed1 singing as ,i went the song of the ancient ,demos1 who1 when dying1 asked for his supper1 and water wherewith to lave his hands-- 1 1 1 1 ' ' 4 #afd ,and in this manner1 mon matre1 ,i left the house of the ,count of ---40 ,myself4--,and a fine account you have given of yourself2 by your own confession1 your behaviour was most atrocious4 ,were it not for the many marks of courage and fidelity which you have exhibited in my service1 ,i would from this moment hold no further communication with you4 ,antonio4--,mais qu'est ce que vous voudriez1 mon matre8 ,am ,i not a ,greek1 full of honour and sensibility8 ,would you have the cooks of ,sceira and ,stambul submit to be insulted here in ,spain by the sons of counts rushing into the temple with manchets of bread8 ,non1 non1 mon matre1 you are too noble to require that1 and what is more1 too just4 ,but we will talk of other things4 ,mon matre1 ,i came not alone1 there is one now waiting in the corridor anxious to speak to you4 ,myself4--,who is it8 ,antonio4--,one whom you have met1 mon matre1 in various and strange places4 ,myself4--,but who is it8 ,antonio4--,one who will come to a strange end1 for so it is written4 ,the most extraordinary of all the ,swiss1 he of ,saint ,james--,der ,schatz ,grber4 #afe ,myself4--,not ,benedict ,mol8 8,yaw1 mein lieber ,herr10 said ,benedict1 pushing open the door which stood ajar2 8it is myself4 ,i met ,herr ,anton in the street1 and hearing that you were in this place1 ,i came with him to visit you40 ,myself4--,and in the name of all that is singular1 how is it that ,i see you in ,madrid again8 ,i thought that by this time you were returned to your own country4 ,benedict4--,fear not1 lieber ,herr1 ,i shall return thither in good time2 but not on foot1 but with mules and coach4 ,the ,schatz is still yonder1 waiting to be dug up1 and now ,i have better hope than ever2 plenty of friends1 plenty of money4 ,see you not how ,i am dressed1 lieber ,herr8 ,and verily his habiliments were of a much more respectable appearance than any which he had sported on former occasions4 ,his coat and pantaloons1 which were of light green1 were nearly new4 ,on his head he still wore an ,andalusian hat1 but the present one was neither old nor shabby1 but fresh and glossy1 and of immense altitude of cone2 whilst in his hand1 instead of the ragged staff which ,i had observed at ,saint ,james and ,oviedo1 he now carried a huge bamboo rattan1 surmounted by the grim head of either a bear or lion1 curiously cut out of pewter4 8,you have all the appearance of a treasure-seeker returned from a successful expedition10 ,i exclaimed4 8,or rather10 interrupted ,antonio1 8of one who has ceased to trade on his own bottom1 and now goes seeking treasures at the cost and expense of others40 ,i questioned the ,swiss minutely concerning his adventures since ,i last saw him1 when ,i left him at ,oviedo to pursue my route to ,santander4 ,from his answers ,i gathered that he had followed me to the latter place2 he was1 however1 a long time in performing the journey1 being weak from hunger and privation4 ,at ,santander he could hear no tidings of me1 and by this time the trifle which he had received from me was completely exhausted4 ,he now thought of making his way into ,france1 but was afraid to venture through the disturbed provinces1 lest he should fall into the hands of the ,carlists1 who he conceived might shoot him as a spy4 ,no one relieving him at ,santander1 he departed and begged his way till he found himself in some part of ,aragon1 but where he scarcely knew4 8,my misery was so great10 said ,benedict1 8that ,i nearly lost my senses4 ,oh1 the horror of wandering about the savage hills and wide plains of ,spain1 without money and without hope6 ,sometimes ,i became desperate1 when ,i found myself amongst rocks and barrancos1 perhaps after having tasted no food from sunrise to sunset2 and then ,i would raise my staff towards the sky and shake it1 crying1 ,lieber ,herr ,gott1 ach lieber ,herr ,gott1 you must help me now or never2 if you tarry ,i am lost2 you must help me now1 now6 ,and once1 when ,i was raving in this manner1 methought ,i heard a voice--nay1 ,i am sure ,i heard it--sounding from the hollow of a rock1 clear and strong2 and it cried1 #8,der ,schatz1 der ,schatz1 it is not yet dug up2 to ,madrid1 to ,madrid4 ,the way to the ,schatz is through ,madrid4' ,and then the thought of the ,schatz once more rushed into my mind1 and ,i reflected how happy ,i might be1 could ,i but dig up the ,schatz4 ,no more begging then2 no more wandering amidst horrid mountains and deserts2 so ,i brandished my staff1 and my body and my limbs became full of new and surprising strength1 and ,i strode forward1 and was not long before ,i reached the high road2 and then ,i begged and bettled as ,i best could1 until ,i reached ,madrid40 8,and what has befallen you since you reached ,madrid80 ,i inquired4 8,did you find the treasure in the streets80 ,on a sudden ,benedict became reserved and taciturn1 which the more surprised me1 as1 up to the present moment1 he had at all times been remarkably communicative with respect to his affairs and prospects4 ,from what ,i could learn from his broken hints and innuendos1 it appeared that1 since his arrival at ,madrid1 he had fallen into the hands of certain people who had treated him with kindness1 and provided him both with money and clothes2 not from disinterested motives1 however1 but having an eye to the treasure4 8,they expect great things from me10 said the ,swiss2 8and perhaps1 after all1 it would have been more profitable to have dug up the treasure without their assistance1 always provided that were possible40 ,who his new friends were he either knew not or would not tell me1 save that they were people in power4 ,he said something about ,queen ,christina and an oath which he had taken in the presence of a bishop on the crucifix and the four ,evangelien4 ,i thought that his head was turned1 and forbore questioning4 ,just before taking his departure1 he observed1 8,lieber ,herr1 pardon me for not being quite frank towards you1 to whom ,i owe so much1 but ,i dare not2 ,i am not now my own man4 ,it is1 moreover1 an evil thing at all times to say a word about treasure before you have secured it4 ,there was once a man in my own country who dug deep into the earth until he arrived at a copper vessel which contained a ,schatz4 ,seizing it by the handle1 he merely exclaimed in his transport1 #8,i have it6' that was enough1 however3 down sank the kettle1 though the handle remained in his grasp4 ,that was all he ever got for his trouble and digging4 ,farewell1 lieber ,herr1 ,i shall speedily be sent back to ,saint ,james to dig up the ,schatz2 but ,i will visit you ere ,i go--farewell40 ,,chapter ,,xlii4 ,liberation from ,prison--,the ,apology--,human ,nature--,the ,greek's ,return--,church of ,rome--,light of ,scripture--,archbishop of ,toledo--,an ,interview--,stones of ,price--,a ,resolution--,the ,foreign ,language--,benedict's ,farewell--,treasure ,hunt at ,compostella--,truth and ,fiction4 ,i remained about three weeks in the prison of ,madrid1 and then left it4 ,if ,i had possessed any pride1 or harboured any rancour against the party who had consigned me to durance1 the manner in which ,i was restored to liberty would no doubt have been highly gratifying to those evil passions2 the government having acknowledged1 by a document transmitted to ,sir ,george1 that ,i had been incarcerated on insufficient grounds1 and that no stigma attached itself to me from the imprisonment ,i had undergone2 at the same time agreeing to defray all the expenses to which ,i had been subjected throughout the progress of this affair4 ,it moreover expressed its willingness to dismiss the individual owing to whose information ,i had been first arrested1 namely1 the corchete1 or police officer1 who had visited me in my apartments in the ,calle de ,santiago1 and behaved himself in the manner which ,i have described in a former chapter4 ,i declined1 however1 to avail myself of this condescension of the government1 more especially as ,i was informed that the individual in question had a wife and family1 who1 if he were disgraced1 would be at once reduced to want4 ,i moreover considered that1 in what he had done and said1 he had probably only obeyed some private orders which he had received2 ,i therefore freely forgave him1 and if he does not retain his situation at the present moment1 it is certainly no fault of mine4 ,i likewise refused to accept any compensation for my expenses1 which were considerable4 ,it is probable that many persons in my situation would have acted very differently in this respect1 and ,i am far from saying that herein ,i acted discreetly or laudably2 but ,i was averse to receive money from people such as those of which the ,spanish ,government was composed1 people whom ,i confess ,i heartily despised1 and ,i was unwilling to afford them an opportunity of saying that after they had imprisoned an ,englishman unjustly1 and without a cause1 he condescended to receive money at their hands4 ,in a word1 ,i confess my own weakness2 ,i was willing that they should continue my debtors1 and have little doubt that they had not the slightest objection to remain so3 they kept their money1 and probably laughed in their sleeves at my want of common sense4 ,the heaviest loss which resulted from my confinement1 and for which no indemnification could be either offered or received1 was in the death of my affectionate and faithful ,basque ,francisco1 who1 having attended me during the whole time of my imprisonment1 caught the pestilential typhus or gaol fever1 which was then raging in the ,carcel de la ,corte1 of which he expired within a few days subsequent to my liberation4 #agj ,his death occurred late one evening4 ,the next morning1 as ,i was lying in bed ruminating on my loss1 and wondering of what nation my next servant would be1 ,i heard a noise which seemed to be that of a person employed vigorously in cleaning boots or shoes1 and at intervals a strange discordant voice singing snatches of a song in some unknown language3 wondering who it could be1 ,i rang the bell4 8,did you ring1 mon matre80 said ,antonio1 appearing at the door with one of his arms deeply buried in a boot4 8,i certainly did ring10 said ,i1 8but ,i scarcely expected that you would have answered the summons40 8,mais pourquoi non1 mon matre80 cried ,antonio4 8,who should serve you now but myself8 ,n'est pas que le sieur ,franois est mort8 ,and did ,i not say1 as soon as ,i heard of his departure1 ,i shall return to my functions chez mon matre1 ,monsieur ,georges80 8,i suppose you had no other employment1 and on that account you came40 8,au contraire1 mon matre10 replied the ,greek1 8,i had just engaged myself at the house of the ,duke of ,frias1 #aga from whom ,i was to receive ten dollars per month more than ,i shall accept from your worship2 but on hearing that you were without a domestic1 ,i forthwith told the duke1 though it was late at night1 that he would not suit me2 and here ,i am40 8,i shall not receive you in this manner10 said ,i2 8return to the duke1 apologize for your behaviour1 request your dismission in a regular way2 and then1 if his grace is willing to part with you1 as will most probably be the case1 ,i shall be happy to avail myself of your services40 ,it is reasonable to expect that after having been subjected to an imprisonment which my enemies themselves admitted to be unjust1 ,i should in future experience more liberal treatment at their hands than that which they had hitherto adopted towards me4 ,the sole object of my ambition at this time was to procure toleration for the sale of the ,gospel in this unhappy and distracted kingdom1 and to have attained this end ,i would not only have consented to twenty such imprisonments in succession as that which ,i had undergone1 but would gladly have sacrificed life itself4 ,i soon perceived1 however1 that ,i was likely to gain nothing by my incarceration2 on the contrary1 ,i had become an object of personal dislike to the government since the termination of this affair1 which it was probable ,i had never been before2 their pride and vanity were humbled by the concessions which they had been obliged to make in order to avoid a rupture with ,england4 ,this dislike they were now determined to gratify1 by thwarting my views as much as possible4 ,i had an interview with ,ofalia on the subject uppermost in my mind2 ,i found him morose and snappish4 8,it will be for your interest to be still10 said he2 8beware6 you have already thrown the whole corte into confusion2 beware1 ,i repeat2 another time you may not escape so easily40 8,perhaps not10 ,i replied1 8and perhaps ,i do not wish it2 it is a pleasant thing to be persecuted for the ,gospel's sake4 ,i now take the liberty of inquiring whether1 if ,i attempt to circulate the ,word of ,god1 ,i am to be interrupted40 8,of course10 exclaimed ,ofalia2 8the ,church forbids such circulation40 8,i shall make the attempt1 however10 ,i exclaimed4 8,do you mean what you say80 demanded ,ofalia1 arching his eyebrows and elongating his mouth4 8,yes10 ,i continued1 8,i shall make the attempt in every village in ,spain to which ,i can penetrate40 ,throughout my residence in ,spain the clergy were the party from which ,i experienced the strongest opposition2 and it was at their instigation that the government originally adopted those measures which prevented any extensive circulation of the sacred volume through the land4 ,i shall not detain the course of my narrative with reflections as to the state of a ,church1 which1 though it pretends to be founded on ,scripture1 would yet keep the light of ,scripture from all mankind1 if possible4 ,but ,rome is fully aware that she is not a ,christian ,church1 and having no desire to become so1 she acts prudently in keeping from the eyes of her followers the page which would reveal to them the truths of ,christianity4 ,her agents and minions throughout ,spain exerted themselves to the utmost to render my humble labours abortive1 and to vilify the work which ,i was attempting to disseminate4 ,all the ignorant and fanatical clergy 7the great majority7 were opposed to it1 and all those who were anxious to keep on good terms with the court of ,rome were loud in their cry against it4 ,there was1 however1 one section of the clergy1 a small one1 it is true1 rather favourably disposed towards the circulation of the ,gospel1 though by no means inclined to make any particular sacrifice for the accomplishment of such an end3 these were such as professed liberalism1 which is supposed to mean a disposition to adopt any reform1 both in civil and ,church matters1 which may be deemed conducive to the weal of the country4 ,not a few amongst the ,spanish clergy were supporters of this principle1 or at least declared themselves so2 some doubtless for their own advancement1 hoping to turn the spirit of the times to their own personal profit3 others1 it is to be hoped1 from conviction1 and a pure love of the principle itself4 ,amongst these were to be found1 at the time of which ,i am speaking1 several bishops4 ,it is worthy of remark1 however1 that of all these not one but owed his office1 not to the ,pope1 who disowned them one and all1 but to the ,queen ,regent1 the professed head of liberalism throughout all ,spain4 ,it is not1 therefore1 surprising that men thus circumstanced should feel rather disposed than not to countenance any measure or scheme at all calculated to favour the advancement of liberalism2 and surely such an one was the circulation of the ,scriptures4 ,i derived but little assistance from their good will1 however1 supposing that they entertained some1 as they never took any decided stand1 nor lifted up their voices in a bold and positive manner1 denouncing the conduct of those who would withhold the light of ,scripture from the world4 ,at one time ,i hoped by their instrumentality to accomplish much in ,spain in the ,gospel cause2 but ,i was soon undeceived1 and became convinced that reliance on what they would effect was like placing the hand on a staff of reed1 which will only lacerate the flesh4 ,more than once some of them sent messages to me1 expressive of their esteem1 and assuring me how much the cause of the ,gospel was dear to their hearts4 ,i even received an intimation that a visit from me would be agreeable to the ,archbishop of ,toledo1 the ,primate of ,spain4 ,of this personage ,i can say but little1 his early history being entirely unknown to me4 ,at the death of ,ferdinand1 ,i believe1 he was ,bishop of ,mallorca1 a small insignificant see1 of very scanty revenues1 which perhaps he had no objection to exchange for one more wealthy4 ,it is probable1 however1 that had he proved a devoted servant of the ,pope1 and consequently a supporter of legitimacy1 he would have continued to the day of his death to fill the episcopal chair of ,mallorca2 but he was said to be a liberal1 and the ,queen ,regent thought fit to bestow upon him the dignity of ,archbishop of ,toledo1 by which he became the head of the ,spanish ,church4 ,the ,pope1 it is true1 had refused to ratify the nomination1 on which account all good ,catholics were still bound to consider him as ,bishop of ,mallorca1 and not as ,primate of ,spain4 ,he1 however1 received the revenues belonging to the see1 which1 though only a shadow of what they originally were1 were still considerable1 and lived in the primate's palace at ,madrid1 so that if he were not archbishop de jure1 he was what many people would have considered much better1 archbishop de facto4 #age ,hearing that this personage was a personal friend of ,ofalia1 who was said to entertain a very high regard for him1 ,i determined upon paying him a visit1 and accordingly one morning betook myself to the palace in which he resided4 ,i experienced no difficulty in obtaining an interview1 being forthwith conducted to his presence by a common kind of footman1 an ,asturian1 ,i believe1 whom ,i found seated on a stone bench in the entrance-hall4 ,when ,i was introduced1 the archbishop was alone1 seated behind a table in a large apartment1 a kind of drawing-room2 he was plainly dressed1 in a black cassock and silken cap2 on his finger1 however1 glittered a superb amethyst1 the lustre of which was truly dazzling4 ,he rose for a moment as ,i advanced1 and motioned me to a chair with his hand4 ,he might be about sixty years of age2 his figure was very tall1 but he stooped considerably1 evidently from feebleness1 and the pallid hue of ill-health overspread his emaciated features4 ,when he had reseated himself1 he dropped his head1 and appeared to be looking on the table before him4 8,i suppose your lordship knows who ,i am80 said ,i1 at last breaking silence4 ,the archbishop bent his head towards the right shoulder1 in a somewhat equivocal manner1 but said nothing4 8,i am he whom the ,manolos of ,madrid call ,don ,jorgito el ,ingles2 ,i am just come out of prison1 whither ,i was sent for circulating my ,lord's ,gospel in this kingdom of ,spain40 ,the archbishop made the same equivocal motion with his head1 but still said nothing4 8,i was informed that your lordship was desirous of seeing me1 and on that account ,i have paid you this visit40 8,i did not send for you10 said the archbishop1 suddenly1 raising his head with a startled look4 8,perhaps not3 ,i was1 however1 given to understand that my presence would be agreeable2 but as that does not seem to be the case1 ,i will leave40 8,since you are come1 ,i am very glad to see you40 8,i am very glad to hear it10 said ,i1 reseating myself2 8and since ,i am here1 we may as well talk of an all-important matter1 the circulation of the ,scripture4 ,does your lordship see any way by which an end so desirable might be brought about80 8,no10 said the archbishop1 faintly4 8,does not your lordship think that a knowledge of the ,scripture would work inestimable benefit in these realms80 8,i don't know40 8,is it probable that the government may be induced to consent to the circulation80 8,how should ,i know80 and the archbishop looked me in the face4 ,i looked in the face of the archbishop2 there was an expression of helplessness in it1 which almost amounted to dotage4 8,dear me10 thought ,i1 8whom have ,i come to on an errand like mine8 ,poor man6 you are not fitted to play the part of ,martin ,luther1 and least of all in ,spain4 ,i wonder why your friends selected you to be ,archbishop of ,toledo2 they thought perhaps that you would do neither good nor harm1 and made choice of you1 as they sometimes do primates in my own country1 for your incapacity4 ,you do not seem very happy in your present situation2 no very easy stall this of yours4 ,you were more comfortable1 ,i trow1 when you were the poor ,bishop of ,mallorca2 could enjoy your puchera then without fear that the salt would turn out sublimate4 ,no fear then of being smothered in your bed4 ,a siesta is a pleasant thing when one is not subject to be disturbed by #8the sudden fear4' ,i wonder whether they have poisoned you already10 ,i continued1 half aloud1 as ,i kept my eyes fixed on his countenance1 which methought was becoming ghastly4 8,did you speak1 ,don ,jorge80 demanded the archbishop4 8,that is a fine brilliant on your lordship's hand10 said ,i4 8,you are fond of brilliants1 ,don ,jorge10 said the archbishop1 his features brightening up2 8vaya6 so am ,i2 they are pretty things4 ,do you understand them80 8,i do10 said ,i1 8and ,i never saw a finer brilliant than your own1 one excepted2 it belonged to an acquaintance of mine1 a ,tartar ,khan4 ,he did not bear it on his finger1 however2 it stood in the frontlet of his horse1 where it shone like a star4 ,he called it ,daoud ,scharr1 which1 being interpreted1 meaneth light of war40 8,vaya60 said the archbishop1 8how very extraordinary6 ,i am glad you are fond of brilliants1 ,don ,jorge4 ,speaking of horses1 reminds me that ,i have frequently seen you on horseback4 ,vaya6 how you ride6 ,it is dangerous to be in your way40 8,is your lordship fond of equestrian exercise80 8,by no means1 ,don ,jorge2 ,i do not like horses4 ,it is not the practice of the ,church to ride on horseback4 ,we prefer mules2 they are the quieter animals4 ,i fear horses1 they kick so violently40 8,the kick of a horse is death10 said ,i1 8if it touches a vital part4 ,i am not1 however1 of your lordship's opinion with respect to mules3 a good ginete may retain his seat on a horse however vicious1 but a mule--vaya6 when a false mule tira por detras1 #agh;a ,i do not believe that the ,father of the ,church himself could keep the saddle a moment1 however sharp his bit40 ,as ,i was going away1 ,i said1 8,and with respect to the ,gospel1 your lordship1 what am ,i to understand80 8,no s10 #agh;b said the archbishop1 again bending his head towards the right shoulder1 whilst his features resumed their former vacant expression4 ,and thus terminated my interview with the ,archbishop of ,toledo4 8,it appears to me10 said ,i to ,maria ,diaz1 on returning home2 8it appears to me1 ,marequita mia1 that if the ,gospel in ,spain is to wait for toleration until these liberal bishops and archbishops come forward boldly in its behalf1 it will have to tarry a considerable time40 8,i am much of your worship's opinion10 answered ,maria2 8a fine thing1 truly1 it would be to wait till they exerted themselves in its behalf4 ,ca6 #agi;a the idea makes me smile4 ,was your worship ever innocent enough to suppose that they cared one tittle about the ,gospel or its cause8 ,vaya6 they are true priests1 and had only self-interest in view in their advances to you4 ,the ,holy ,father disowns them1 and they would now fain1 by awaking his fears and jealousy1 bring him to some terms2 but let him once acknowledge them1 and see whether they would admit you to their palaces or hold any intercourse with you6 #8,forth with the fellow6' they would say2 #8vaya6 is he not a ,lutheran8 ,is he not an enemy to the ,church8 la horca1 la horca6' #agi;b ,i know this family better than you do1 ,don ,jorge40 8,it is useless tarrying10 said ,i2 8nothing1 however1 can be done in ,madrid4 ,i cannot sell the work at the despacho1 and ,i have just received intelligence that all the copies exposed for sale in the libraries in the different parts of ,spain which ,i have visited have been sequestrated by order of the government4 ,my resolution is taken3 ,i shall mount my horses1 which are neighing in the stable1 and betake myself to the villages and plains of dusty ,spain4 ,al campo1 al campo3 #ahj;a #8,ride forth1 because of the word of righteousness1 and thy right hand shall show thee terrible things4 #ahj;b ,i will ride forth1 ,maria40 8,your worship can do no better2 and allow me here to tell you1 that for every single book you might sell in a despacho in the city1 you may dispose of one hundred amongst the villages1 always provided you offer them cheap2 for in the country money is rather scant4 ,vaya6 should ,i not know8 am ,i not a villager myself1 a villana from the ,sagra8 ,ride forth1 therefore3 your horses are neighing in the stall1 as your worship says1 and you might almost have added that the ,seor ,antonio is neighing in the house4 ,he says he has nothing to do1 on which account he is once more dissatisfied and unsettled4 ,he finds fault with everything1 but more particularly with myself4 ,this morning ,i saluted him1 and he made me no reply1 but twisted his mouth in a manner very uncommon in this land of ,spain40 8,a thought strikes me10 said ,i2 8you have mentioned the ,sagra2 why should not ,i commence my labours amongst the villages of that district80 8,your worship can do no better10 replied ,maria2 8the harvest is just over there1 and you will find the people comparatively unemployed1 with leisure to attend and listen to you2 and if you follow my advice1 you will establish yourself at ,villa ,seca1 in the house of my fathers1 where at present lives my lord and husband4 ,go1 therefore1 to ,villa ,seca in the first place1 and from thence you can sally forth with the ,seor ,antonio upon your excursions4 ,peradventure1 my husband will accompany you2 and if so1 you will find him highly useful4 ,the people of ,villa ,seca are civil and courteous1 your worship2 when they address a foreigner1 they speak to him at the top of their voice and in ,gallegan40 8,in ,gallegan60 ,i exclaimed4 8,they all understand a few words of ,gallegan1 which they have acquired from the mountaineers1 who occasionally assist them in cutting the harvest1 and as ,gallegan is the only foreign language they know1 they deem it but polite to address a foreigner in that tongue4 ,vaya6 it is not a bad village1 that of ,villa ,seca1 nor are the people2 the only ill-conditioned person living there is his reverence the curate40 ,i was not long in making preparations for my enterprise4 ,a considerable stock of ,testaments were sent forward by an arriero1 ,i myself followed the next day4 ,before my departure1 however1 ,i received a visit from ,benedict ,mol4 8,i am come to bid you farewell1 lieber ,herr2 tomorrow ,i return to ,compostella40 8,on what errand80 8,to dig up the ,schatz1 lieber ,herr4 ,for what else should ,i go8 ,for what have ,i lived until now1 but that ,i may dig up the ,schatz in the end80 8,you might have lived for something better10 ,i exclaimed4 8,i wish you success1 however4 ,but on what grounds do you hope8 ,have you obtained permission to dig8 ,surely you remember your former trials in ,galicia80 8,i have not forgotten them1 lieber ,herr1 nor the journey to ,oviedo1 nor #8the seven acorns1' nor the fight with death in the barranco4 ,but ,i must accomplish my destiny4 ,i go now to ,galicia1 as is becoming a ,swiss1 at the expense of the government1 with coach and mule1 ,i mean in the galera4 ,i am to have all the help ,i require1 so that ,i can dig down to the earth's centre if ,i think fit4 ,i--but ,i must not tell your worship1 for ,i am sworn on #8the four ,evangelien1' not to tell40 8,well1 ,benedict1 ,i have nothing to say1 save that ,i hope you will succeed in your digging40 8,thank you1 lieber ,herr1 thank you2 and now farewell4 ,succeed6 ,i shall succeed60 ,here he stopped short1 started1 and looking upon me with an expression of countenance almost wild1 he exclaimed1 8,heiliger ,gott6 ,i forgot one thing4 ,suppose ,i should not find the treasure after all60 8,very rationally said2 pity1 though1 that you did not think of that contingency till now4 ,i tell you1 my friend1 that you have engaged in a most desperate undertaking4 ,it is true that you may find a treasure4 ,the chances are1 however1 a hundred to one that you do not1 and in that event what will be your situation8 ,you will be looked upon as an impostor1 and the consequences may be horrible to you4 ,remember where you are1 and amongst whom you are4 ,the ,spaniards are a credulous people1 but let them once suspect that they have been imposed upon1 and above all laughed at1 and their thirst for vengeance knows no limit4 ,think not that your innocence will avail you4 ,that you are no impostor ,i feel convinced2 but they would never believe it4 ,it is not too late4 ,return your fine clothes and magic rattan to those from whom you had them4 ,put on your old garments1 grasp your ragged staff1 and come with me to the ,sagra1 to assist in circulating the illustrious ,gospel amongst the rustics on the ,tagus' bank40 ,benedict mused for a moment1 then1 shaking his head1 he cried1 8,no1 no1 ,i must accomplish my destiny4 ,the ,schatz is not yet dug up4 ,so said the voice in the barranco4 ,to-morrow to ,compostella4 ,i shall find it--the ,schatz--it is still there--it must be there40 ,he went1 and ,i never saw him more4 ,what ,i heard1 however1 was extraordinary enough4 ,it appeared that the government had listened to his tale1 and had been so struck with ,benedict's exaggerated description of the buried treasure1 that they imagined that1 by a little trouble and outlay1 gold and diamonds might be dug up at ,saint ,james sufficient to enrich themselves and to pay off the national debt of ,spain4 ,the ,swiss returned to ,compostella 8like a duke10 to use his own words4 ,the affair1 which had at first been kept a profound secret1 was speedily divulged4 ,it was1 indeed1 resolved that the investigation1 which involved consequences of so much importance1 should take place in a manner the most public and imposing4 ,a solemn festival was drawing nigh1 and it was deemed expedient that the search should take place upon that day4 ,the day arrived4 ,all the bells in ,compostella pealed4 ,the whole populace thronged from their houses1 a thousand troops were drawn up in the square1 the expectation of all was wound up to the highest pitch4 ,a procession directed its course to the church of ,san ,roque2 at its head was the captain-general and the ,swiss1 brandishing in his hand the magic rattan2 close behind walked the meiga1 the ,gallegan witch-wife1 by whom the treasure-seeker had been originally guided in the search2 numerous masons brought up the rear1 bearing implements to break up the ground4 ,the procession enters the church1 they pass through it in solemn march1 they find themselves in a vaulted passage4 ,the ,swiss looks around4 8,dig here10 said he suddenly4 8,yes1 dig here10 said the meiga4 ,the masons labour1 the floor is broken up1--a horrible and fetid odour arises4 4 4 4 ,enough2 no treasure was found1 and my warning to the unfortunate ,swiss turned out but too prophetic4 ,he was forthwith seized and flung into the horrid prison of ,saint ,james1 amidst the execrations of thousands1 who would have gladly torn him limb from limb4 ,the affair did not terminate here4 ,the political opponents of the government did not allow so favourable an opportunity to escape for launching the shafts of ridicule4 ,the moderados were taunted in the cortes for their avarice and credulity1 whilst the liberal press wafted on its wings through ,spain the story of the treasure-hunt at ,saint ,james4 8,after all1 it was a trampa of ,don ,jorge's10 said one of my enemies4 8,that fellow is at the bottom of half the picardias which happen in ,spain40 ,eager to learn the fate of the ,swiss1 ,i wrote to my old friend ,rey ,romero1 at ,compostella4 ,in his answer he states3 8,i saw the ,swiss in prison1 to which place he sent for me1 craving my assistance1 for the sake of the friendship which ,i bore to you4 ,but how could ,i help him8 ,he was speedily after removed from ,saint ,james1 ,i know not whither4 ,it is said that he disappeared on the road40 ,truth is sometimes stranger than fiction4 ,where in the whole cycle of romance shall we find anything more wild1 grotesque1 and sad1 than the easily authenticated history of ,benedict ,mol1 the treasure-digger of ,saint ,james8 ,,chapter ,,xliii4 ,villa ,seca--,moorish ,house--,the ,puchera--,the ,rustic ,council--,polite ,ceremonial--,the ,flower of ,spain--,the ,bridge of ,azeca--,the ,ruined ,castle--,taking the ,field--,demand for the ,word--,the ,old ,peasant--,the ,curate and ,blacksmith--,cheapness of the ,scriptures4 ,it was one of the most fiercely hot days in which ,i ever braved the sun1 when ,i arrived at ,villa ,seca4 ,the heat in the shade must have amounted at least to one hundred degrees1 and the entire atmosphere seemed to consist of flickering flame4 ,at a place called ,leganez1 six leagues from ,madrid1 and about half way to ,toledo1 we diverged from the highway1 bending our course seemingly towards the south-east4 ,we rode over what are called plains in ,spain1 but which1 in any other part of the world1 would be called undulating and broken ground4 ,the crops of corn and barley had already disappeared1 the last vestiges discoverable being here and there a few sheaves1 which the labourers were occupied in removing to their garners in the villages4 ,the country could scarcely be called beautiful1 being perfectly naked1 exhibiting neither trees nor verdure4 ,it was not1 however1 without its pretensions to grandeur and magnificence1 like every part of ,spain4 ,the most prominent objects were two huge calcareous hills1 or rather one cleft in twain1 which towered up on high2 the summit of the nearest being surmounted by the ruins of an ancient castle1 that of ,villaluenga4 ,about an hour past noon we reached ,villa ,seca4 ,we found it a large village1 containing about seven hundred inhabitants1 and surrounded by a mud wall4 ,a plaza1 or market-place1 stood in the midst1 one side of which is occupied by what is called a palace1 a clumsy quadrangular building of two stories1 belonging to some noble family1 the lords of the neighbouring soil4 ,it was deserted1 however2 being only occupied by a kind of steward1 who stored up in its chambers the grain which he received as rent from the tenants and villanos who farmed the surrounding district4 ,the village stands at the distance of about a quarter of a league from the bank of the ,tagus1 which even here1 in the heart of ,spain1 is a beautiful stream1 not navigable1 however1 on account of the sand-banks1 which in many places assume the appearance of small islands1 and are covered with trees and brushwood4 ,the village derives its supply of water entirely from the river1 having none of its own--such1 at least1 as is potable--the water of its wells being all brackish1 on which account it is probably termed ,villa ,seca1 which signifies 8the dry hamlet40 ,the inhabitants are said to have been originally ,moors2 certain it is1 that various customs are observable here highly favourable to such a supposition4 ,amongst others1 a very curious one3 it is deemed infamous for a woman of ,villa ,seca to go across the market-place1 or to be seen there1 though they have no hesitation in showing themselves in the streets and lanes4 ,a deep-rooted hostility exists between the inhabitants of this place and those of a neighbouring village1 called ,vargas2 they rarely speak when they meet1 and never intermarry4 ,there is a vague tradition that the people of the latter place are old ,christians1 and it is highly probable that these neighbours were originally of widely different blood2 those of ,villa ,seca being of particularly dark complexions1 whilst the indwellers of ,vargas are light and fair4 ,thus the old feud between ,moor and ,christian is still kept up in the nineteenth century in ,spain4 ,drenched in perspiration1 which fell from our brows like rain1 we arrived at the door of ,juan ,lopez1 the husband of ,maria ,diaz4 ,having heard of our intention to pay him a visit1 he was expecting us1 and cordially welcomed us to his habitation1 which1 like a genuine ,moorish house1 consisted only of one story4 ,it was amply large1 however1 with a court and stable4 ,all the apartments were deliciously cool4 ,the floors were of brick or stone2 and the narrow and trellised windows1 which were without glass1 scarcely permitted a ray of sun to penetrate into the interior4 ,a puchera had been prepared in expectation of our arrival2 the heat had not taken away my appetite1 and it was not long before ,i did full justice to this the standard dish of ,spain4 ,whilst ,i ate1 ,lopez played upon the guitar1 singing occasionally snatches of ,andalusian songs4 ,he was a short1 merry-faced1 active fellow1 whom ,i had frequently seen at ,madrid1 and was a good specimen of the ,spanish labrador1 or yeoman4 ,though far from possessing the ability and intellect of his wife1 ,maria ,diaz1 he was by no means deficient in shrewdness and understanding4 ,he was1 moreover1 honest and disinterested1 and performed good service in the ,gospel cause1 as will presently appear4 ,when the repast was concluded1 ,lopez thus addressed me3--8,seor ,don ,jorge1 your arrival in our village has already caused a sensation2 more especially as these are times of war and tumult1 and every person is afraid of another1 and we dwell here close on the confines of the factious country3 for1 as you well know1 the greater part of ,la ,mancha is in the hands of the ,carlinos and thieves1 parties of whom frequently show themselves on the other side of the river2 on which account the alcalde of this city1 with the other grave and notable people thereof1 are desirous of seeing your worship1 and conversing with you1 and of examining your passport40 8,it is well10 said ,i2 8let us forthwith pay a visit to these worthy people40 ,whereupon he conducted me across the plaza1 to the house of the alcalde1 where ,i found the rustic dignitary seated in the passage1 enjoying the refreshing coolness of a draught of air which rushed through4 ,he was an elderly man1 of about sixty1 with nothing remarkable in his appearance or his features1 which latter were placid and good-humoured4 ,there were several people with him1 amongst whom was the surgeon of the place1 a tall and immensely bulky man1 an ,alavese by birth1 from the town of ,vitoria4 ,there was also a red fiery-faced individual1 with a nose very much turned on one side1 who was the blacksmith of the village1 and was called in general ,el ,tuerto1 #ahh from the circumstance of his having but one eye4 ,making the assembly a low bow1 ,i pulled out my passport1 and thus addressed them3-- 8,grave men and cavaliers of this city of ,villa ,seca1 as ,i am a stranger1 of whom it is not possible that you should know anything1 ,i have deemed it my duty to present myself before you1 and to tell you who ,i am4 ,know1 then1 that ,i am an ,englishman of good blood and fathers1 travelling in these countries for my own profit and diversion1 and for that of other people also4 ,i have now found my way to ,villa ,seca1 where ,i propose to stay some time1 doing that which may be deemed convenient2 sometimes riding across the plain1 and sometimes bathing myself in the waters of the river1 which are reported to be of advantage in times of heat4 ,i therefore beg that1 during my sojourn in this capital1 ,i may enjoy such countenance and protection from its governors as they are in the habit of affording to those who are of quiet and well-ordered life1 and are disposed to be buxom and obedient to the customs and laws of the republic40 8,he speaks well10 said the alcalde1 glancing around4 8,yes1 he speaks well10 said the bulky ,alavese2 8there is no denying it40 8,i never heard any one speak better10 cried the blacksmith1 starting up from a stool on which he was seated4 8,vaya6 he is a big man and a fair complexioned1 like myself4 ,i like him1 and have a horse that will just suit him2 one that is the flower of ,spain1 and is eight inches above the mark40 ,i then1 with another bow1 presented my passport to the alcalde1 who1 with a gentle motion of his hand1 appeared to decline taking it1 at the same time saying1 8,it is not necessary40 8,oh1 not at all10 exclaimed the surgeon4 8,the housekeepers of ,villa ,seca know how to comport themselves with formality10 observed the blacksmith4 8,they would be very loth to harbour any suspicion against a cavalier so courteous and well spoken40 ,knowing1 however1 that this refusal amounted to nothing1 and that it merely formed part of a polite ceremonial1 ,i proffered the passport a second time1 whereupon it was instantly taken1 and in a moment the eyes of all present were bent upon it with intense curiosity4 ,it was examined from top to bottom1 and turned round repeatedly1 and though it is not probable that an individual present understood a word of it1 it being written in ,french1 it gave nevertheless universal satisfaction2 and when the alcalde1 carefully folding it up1 returned it to me1 they all observed that they had never seen a better passport in their lives1 or one which spake in higher terms of the bearer4 ,who was it said that 8,cervantes sneered ,spain's chivalry away08 #aij ,i know not2 and the author of such a line scarcely deserves to be remembered4 ,how the rage for scribbling tempts people at the present day to write about lands and nations of which they know nothing1 or worse than nothing6 ,vaya6 ,it is not from having seen a bull-fight at ,seville or ,madrid1 or having spent a handful of ounces at a posada in either of those places1 kept perhaps by a ,genoese or a ,frenchman1 that you are competent to write about such a people as the ,spaniards1 and to tell the world how they think1 how they speak1 and how they act4 ,spain's chivalry sneered away6 ,why1 there is every probability that the great body of the ,spanish nation speak1 think1 and live precisely as their forefathers did six centuries ago4 ,in the evening the blacksmith1 or1 as he would be called in ,spanish1 ,el ,herrador1 made his appearance at the door of ,lopez on horseback4 8,vamos1 ,don ,jorge10 he shouted4 8,come with me1 if your worship is disposed for a ride4 ,i am going to bathe my horse in the ,tagus1 by the bridge of ,azeca40 ,i instantly saddled my jaca ,cordovesa1 and joining him1 we rode out of the village1 directing our course across the plain towards the river4 8,did you ever see such a horse as this of mine1 ,don ,jorge80 he demanded4 8,is he not a jewel--an alhaja80 ,and in truth the horse was a noble and gallant creature1 in height at least sixteen hands1 broad-chested1 but of clean and elegant limbs4 ,his neck was superbly arched1 and his head towered on high like that of a swan4 ,in colour he was a bright chestnut1 save his flowing mane and tail1 which were almost black4 ,i expressed my admiration2 whereupon the herrador1 in high spirits1 pressed his heels to the creature's sides1 and flinging the bridle on its neck1 speeded over the plain with prodigious swiftness1 shouting the old ,spanish cry1 ,cierra6 ,i attempted to keep up with him1 but had not a chance4 8,i call him the flower of ,spain10 said the herrador1 rejoining me4 8,purchase him1 ,don ,jorge2 his price is but three thousand reals4 #aib ,i would not sell him for double that sum1 but the ,carlist thieves have their eyes upon him1 and ,i am apprehensive that they will some day make a dash across the river and break into ,villa ,seca1 all to get possession of my horse1 #8,the ,flower of ,spain4'0 ,it may be as well to observe here1 that1 within a month from this period1 my friend the herrador1 not being able to find a regular purchaser for his steed1 entered into negociations with the aforesaid thieves respecting him1 and finally disposed of the animal to their leader1 receiving not the three thousand reals he demanded1 but an entire herd of horned cattle1 probably driven from the plains of ,la ,mancha4 ,for this transaction1 which was neither more nor less than high treason1 he was cast into the prison of ,toledo1 where1 however1 he did not continue long2 for during a short visit to ,villa ,seca1 which ,i made in the spring of the following year1 ,i found him alcalde of that 8republic40 ,we arrived at the bridge of ,azeca1 which is about half a league from ,villa ,seca3 close beside it is a large water-mill1 standing upon a dam which crosses the river4 ,dismounting from his steed1 the herrador proceeded to divest it of the saddle1 then causing it to enter the mill-pool1 he led it by means of a cord to a particular spot1 where the water reached halfway up its neck1 then fastening the cord to a post on the bank1 he left the animal standing in the pool4 ,i thought ,i could do no better than follow his example2 and1 accordingly1 procuring a rope from the mill1 ,i led my own horse into the water4 8,it will refresh their blood1 ,don ,jorge101 said the herrador2 8let us leave them there for an hour1 whilst we go and divert ourselves40 ,near the bridge1 on the side of the river on which we were1 was a kind of guard-house1 where were three carbineers of the revenue1 who collected the tolls of the bridge4 ,we entered into conversation with them3 8,is not this a dangerous position of yours10 said ,i to one of them1 who was a ,catalan1 8close beside the factious country8 ,surely it would not be difficult for a body of the ,carlinos or bandits to dash across the bridge and make prisoners of you all40 8,it would be easy enough at any moment1 cavalier10 replied the ,catalan2 8we are1 however1 all in the hands of ,god1 and he has preserved us hitherto1 and perhaps still will4 ,true it is that one of our number1 for there were four of us originally1 fell the other day into the hands of the canaille4 ,he had wandered across the bridge amongst the thickets with his gun in search of a hare or rabbit1 when three or four of them fell upon him and put him to death in a manner too horrible to relate4 ,but patience6 every man who lives must die4 ,i shall not sleep the worse to-night because ,i may chance to be hacked by the knives of these malvados to-morrow4 ,cavalier1 ,i am from ,barcelona1 and have seen there mariners of your nation2 this is not so good a country as ,barcelona4 ,paciencia6 ,cavalier1 if you will step into our house1 ,i will give you a glass of water2 we have some that is cool1 for we dug a deep hole in the earth and buried there our pitcher2 it is cool1 as ,i told you1 but the water of ,castile is not like that of ,catalonia40 ,the moon had arisen when we mounted our horses to return to the village1 and the rays of the beauteous luminary danced merrily on the rushing waters of the ,tagus1 silvered the plain over which we were passing1 and bathed in a flood of brightness the bold sides of the calcareous hill of ,villaluenga and the antique ruins which crowned its brow4 8,why is that the ,castle of ,villaluenga80 ,i demanded4 8,from a village of that name1 which stands on the other side of the hill1 ,don ,jorge10 replied the herrador4 8,vaya6 it is a strange place1 that castle3 some say it was built by the ,moors in the old times1 and some by the ,christians when they first laid siege to ,toledo4 ,it is not inhabited now1 save by rabbits1 which breed there in abundance amongst the long grass and broken stones1 and by eagles and vultures1 which build on the tops of the towers4 ,i occasionally go there with my gun to shoot a rabbit4 ,on a fine day you may descry both ,toledo and ,madrid from its walls4 ,i cannot say ,i like the place1 it is so dreary and melancholy4 ,the hill on which it stands is all of chalk1 and is very difficult of ascent4 ,i heard my grandame say that once1 when she was a girl1 a cloud of smoke burst from that hill1 and that flames of fire were seen1 just as if it contained a volcano1 as perhaps it does1 ,don ,jorge40 ,the grand work of ,scripture circulation soon commenced in the ,sagra4 ,notwithstanding the heat of the weather1 ,i rode about in all directions4 ,it was well that heat agrees with my constitution1 otherwise it would have been impossible to effect anything in this season1 when the very arrieros frequently fall dead from their mules1 smitten by a sun-stroke4 ,i had an excellent assistant in ,antonio1 who1 disregarding the heat like myself1 and afraid of nothing1 visited several villages with remarkable success4 8,mon matre10 said he1 8,i wish to show you that nothing is beyond my capacity40 ,but he who put the labours of us both to shame1 was my host1 ,juan ,lopez1 whom it had pleased the ,lord to render favourable to the cause4 8,don ,jorge10 said he1 8yo quiero engancharme con usted2 #aie;a ,i am a liberal1 and a foe to superstition2 ,i will take the field1 and1 if necessary1 will follow you to the end of the world3 ,viva ,inglaterra2 viva el ,evangelio40 ,thus saying1 he put a large bundle of ,testaments into a satchel1 and1 springing upon the crupper of his grey donkey1 he cried1 8,arrh6 burra60 #aie;b and hastened away4 ,i sat down to my journal4 ,ere ,i had finished writing ,i heard the voice of the burra in the courtyard1 and going out1 ,i found my host returned4 ,he had disposed of his whole cargo of twenty ,testaments at the village of ,vargas1 distant from ,villa ,seca about a league4 ,eight poor harvest-men1 who were refreshing themselves at the door of a wine-house1 purchased each a copy1 whilst the village schoolmaster secured the rest for the little ones beneath his care1 lamenting1 at the same time1 the great difficulty he had long experienced in obtaining religious books1 owing to their scarcity and extravagant price4 ,many other persons were also anxious to purchase ,testaments1 but ,lopez was unable to supply them3 at his departure they requested him to return within a few days4 ,i was aware that ,i was playing rather a daring game1 and that it was very possible that1 when ,i least expected it1 ,i might be seized1 tied to the tail of a mule1 and dragged either to the prison of ,toledo or ,madrid4 ,yet such a prospect did not discourage me in the least1 but rather urged me to persevere2 for1 at this time1 without the slightest wish to magnify myself1 ,i could say that ,i was eager to lay down my life for the cause1 and whether a bandit's bullet or the gaol fever brought my career to a close1 was a matter of indifference to me2 ,i was not then a stricken man3 8,ride on1 because of the word of righteousness10 was my cry4 ,the news of the arrival of the book of life soon spread like wildfire through the villages of the ,sagra of ,toledo1 and wherever my people and myself directed our course we found the inhabitants disposed to receive our merchandise2 it was even called for where not exhibited4 ,one night as ,i was bathing myself and horse in the ,tagus1 a knot of people gathered on the bank1 crying1 8,come out of the water1 ,englishman1 and give us books2 we have got our money in our hands40 ,the poor creatures then held out their hands1 filled with cuartos1 a copper coin of the value of a farthing1 but unfortunately ,i had no ,testaments to give them4 ,antonio1 however1 who was at a short distance1 having exhibited one1 it was instantly torn from his hands by the people1 and a scuffle ensued to obtain possession of it4 ,it very frequently occurred that the poor labourers in the neighbourhood1 being eager to obtain ,testaments1 and having no money to offer us in exchange1 brought various articles to our habitation as equivalents2 for example1 rabbits1 fruit1 and barley2 and ,i made a point never to disappoint them1 as such articles were of utility either for our own consumption or that of the horses4 ,in ,villa ,seca there was a school in which fifty-seven children were taught the first rudiments of education4 ,one morning the schoolmaster1 a tall slim figure of about sixty1 bearing on his head one of the peaked hats of ,andalusia1 and wrapped1 notwithstanding the excessive heat of the weather1 in a long cloak1 made his appearance1 and having seated himself1 requested to be shown one of our books4 ,having delivered it to him1 he remained examining it for nearly an hour1 without uttering a word4 ,at last he laid it down with a sigh1 and said that he should be very happy to purchase some of these books for his school1 but from their appearance1 especially from the quality of the paper and binding1 he was apprehensive that to pay for them would exceed the means of the parents of his pupils1 as they were almost destitute of money1 being poor labourers4 ,he then commenced blaming the government1 which1 he said1 established schools without affording the necessary books1 adding that in his school there were but two books for the use of all his pupils1 and these1 he confessed1 contained but little good4 ,i asked him what he considered the ,testaments were worth8 ,he said1 8,seor ,cavalier1 to speak frankly1 ,i have in other times paid twelve reals for books inferior to yours in every respect2 but ,i assure you that my poor pupils would be utterly unable to pay the half of that sum40 ,i replied1 8,i will sell you as many as you please for three reals each4 ,i am acquainted with the poverty of the land1 and my friends and myself1 in affording the people the means of spiritual instruction1 have no wish to curtail their scanty bread40 ,he replied1 8,bendito sea ,dios60 #aig and could scarcely believe his ears4 ,he instantly purchased a dozen1 expending1 as he said1 all the money he possessed1 with the exception of a few cuartos4 ,the introduction of the ,word of ,god into the country schools of ,spain is therefore begun1 and ,i humbly hope that it will prove one of those events which the ,bible ,society1 after the lapse of years1 will have most reason to remember with joy and gratitude to the ,almighty4 ,an old peasant is reading in the portico4 ,eighty-four years have passed over his head1 and he is almost entirely deaf2 nevertheless he is reading aloud the second of ,matthew3 three days since he bespoke a ,testament1 but not being able to raise the money1 he has not redeemed it until the present moment4 ,he has just brought thirty farthings4 ,as ,i survey the silvery hair which overshadows his sun-burnt countenance1 the words of the song occurred to me1 8,lord1 now lettest thou thy servant depart in peace1 according to thy word3 for mine eyes have seen thy salvation40 ,i experienced much grave kindness and simple hospitality from the good people of ,villa ,seca during my sojourn amongst them4 ,i had at this time so won their hearts by the 8formality0 of my behaviour and language1 that ,i firmly believe they would have resisted to the knife any attempt which might have been made to arrest or otherwise maltreat me4 ,he who wishes to become acquainted with the genuine ,spaniard must seek him not in seaports and large towns1 but in lone and remote villages1 like those of the ,sagra4 ,there he will find all that gravity of deportment and chivalry of disposition which ,cervantes is said to have sneered away2 #aih and there he will hear1 in everyday conversation1 those grandiose expressions1 which1 when met with in the romances of chivalry1 are scoffed at as ridiculous exaggerations4 ,i had one enemy in the village--it was the curate4 8,the fellow is a heretic and a scoundrel10 said he one day in the conclave4 8,he never enters the church1 and is poisoning the minds of the people with his ,lutheran books4 ,let him be bound and sent to ,toledo1 or turned out of the village at least40 8,i will have nothing of the kind10 said the alcalde1 who was said to be a ,carlist4 8,if he has his opinions1 ,i have mine too4 ,he has conducted himself with politeness4 ,why should ,i interfere with him8 ,he has been courteous to my daughter1 and has presented her with a volume4 ,que viva6 and with respect to his being a ,lutheran1 ,i have heard say that amongst the ,lutherans there are sons of as good fathers as here4 ,he appears to me a caballero4 ,he speaks well40 8,there is no denying it10 said the surgeon4 8,who speaks so well80 shouted the herrador4 8,and who has more formality8 ,vaya6 did he not praise my horse1 #8,the ,flower of ,spain'8 ,did he not say that in the whole of ,inglaterra there was not a better8 ,did he not assure me1 moreover1 that if he were to remain in ,spain he would purchase it1 giving me my own price8 ,turn him out1 indeed6 ,is he not of my own blood1 is he not fair-complexioned8 ,who shall turn him out when ,i1 #8the one-eyed1' say no80 ,in connexion with the circulation of the ,scriptures ,i will now relate an anecdote not altogether divested of singularity4 ,i have already spoken of the water-mill by the bridge of ,azeca4 ,i had formed acquaintance with the tenant of this mill1 who was known in the neighbourhood by the name of ,don ,antero4 ,one day1 taking me into a retired place1 he asked me1 to my great astonishment1 whether ,i would sell him a thousand ,testaments at the price at which ,i was disposing of them to the peasantry2 saying1 if ,i would consent he would pay me immediately4 ,in fact1 he put his hand into his pocket1 and pulled it out filled with gold ounces4 ,i asked him what was his reason for wishing to make so considerable a purchase4 ,whereupon he informed me that he had a relation in ,toledo whom he wished to establish1 and that he was of opinion that his best plan would be to hire him a shop there and furnish it with ,testaments4 ,i told him that he must think of nothing of the kind1 as probably the books would be seized on the first attempt to introduce them into ,toledo1 as the priests and canons were much averse to their distribution4 ,he was not disconcerted1 however1 and said his relation could travel1 as ,i myself was doing1 and dispose of them to the peasants with profit to himself4 ,i confess ,i was inclined at first to accept his offer1 but at length declined it1 as ,i did not wish to expose a poor man to the risk of losing money1 goods1 and perhaps liberty and life4 ,i was likewise averse to the books being offered to the peasantry at an advanced price1 being aware that they could not afford it1 and the books1 by such an attempt1 would lose a considerable part of that influence which they then enjoyed2 for their cheapness struck the minds of the people1 and they considered it almost as much in the light of a miracle as the ,jews the manna which dropped from heaven at the time they were famishing1 or the spring which suddenly gushed from the flinty rock to assuage their thirst in the wilderness4 ,at this time a peasant was continually passing and repassing between ,villa ,seca and ,madrid1 bringing us cargoes of ,testaments on a borrico4 ,we continued our labours until the greater part of the villages of the ,sagra were well supplied with books1 more especially those of ,vargas1 ,coveja1 ,mocejon1 ,villaluenga1 ,villa ,seca1 and ,yuncler4 #bja ,hearing at last that our proceedings were known at ,toledo1 and were causing considerable alarm1 we returned to ,madrid4 ,,chapter ,,xliv4 ,aranjuez--,a ,warning--,a ,night ,adventure--,a ,fresh ,expedition--,segovia--,abades--,factiou s ,curas--,lopez in ,prison--,rescue of ,lopez4 ,the success which had attended our efforts in the ,sagra of ,toledo speedily urged me on to a new enterprise4 ,i now determined to direct my course to ,la ,mancha1 and to distribute the ,word amongst the villages of that province4 ,lopez1 who had already performed such important services in the ,sagra1 had accompanied us to ,madrid1 and was eager to take part in this new expedition4 ,we determined in the first place to proceed to ,aranjuez1 where we hoped to obtain some information which might prove of utility in the further regulation of our movements2 ,aranjuez being but a slight distance from the frontier of ,la ,mancha1 and the high-road into that province passing directly through it4 ,we accordingly sallied forth from ,madrid1 selling from twenty to forty ,testaments in every village which lay in our way1 until we arrived at ,aranjuez1 to which place we had forwarded a large supply of books4 ,a lovely spot is ,aranjuez1 #bjb though in desolation3 here the ,tagus flows through a delicious valley1 perhaps the most fertile in ,spain2 and here upsprang1 in ,spain's better days1 a little city1 with a small but beautiful palace1 shaded by enormous trees1 where royalty delighted to forget its cares4 ,here ,ferdinand the ,seventh spent his latter days1 surrounded by lovely seoras and ,andalusian bull-fighters2 but1 as the ,german ,schiller has it in one of his tragedies-- 8,the happy days in fair ,aranjuez ,are past and gone40 #bjc ,when the sensual king went to his dread account1 royalty deserted it1 and it soon fell into decay4 ,intriguing courtiers no longer crowd its halls2 its spacious circus1 where ,manchegan bulls once roared in rage and agony1 is now closed1 and the light tinkling of guitars is no longer heard amidst its groves and gardens4 ,at ,aranjuez ,i made a sojourn of three days1 during which time ,antonio1 ,lopez1 and myself visited every house in the town4 ,we found a vast deal of poverty and ignorance amongst the inhabitants1 and experienced some opposition3 nevertheless it pleased the ,almighty to permit us to dispose of about eighty ,testaments1 which were purchased entirely by the very poor people2 those in easier circumstances paying no attention to the ,word of ,god1 but rather turning it to scoff and ridicule4 ,one circumstance was very gratifying and cheering to me1 namely1 the ocular proof which ,i possessed that the books which ,i disposed of were read1 and with attention1 by those to whom ,i sold them2 and that many others participated in their benefit4 ,in the streets of ,aranjuez1 and beneath the mighty cedars and gigantic elms and plantains which compose its noble woods1 ,i have frequently seen groups assembled listening to individuals who1 with the ,new ,testament in their hands1 were reading aloud the comfortable words of salvation4 ,it is probable that1 had ,i remained a longer period at ,aranjuez1 ,i might have sold many more of these ,divine books1 but ,i was eager to gain ,la ,mancha and its sandy plains1 and to conceal myself for a season amongst its solitary villages1 for ,i was apprehensive that a storm was gathering around me2 but when once through ,ocaa1 the frontier town1 ,i knew well that ,i should have nothing to fear from the ,spanish authorities1 as their power ceased there1 the rest of ,la ,mancha being almost entirely in the hands of the ,carlists1 and overrun by small parties of banditti1 from whom1 however1 ,i trusted that the ,lord would preserve me4 ,i therefore departed for ,ocaa1 #bjd distant three leagues from ,aranjuez4 ,i started with ,antonio at six in the evening1 having early in the morning sent forward ,lopez with between two and three hundred ,testaments4 ,we left the highroad1 and proceeded by a shorter way through wild hills and over very broken and precipitous ground4 ,being well mounted1 we found ourselves just after sunset opposite ,ocaa1 which stands on a steep hill4 ,a deep valley lay between us and the town3 we descended1 and came to a small bridge1 which traverses a rivulet at the bottom of the valley1 at a very small distance from a kind of suburb4 ,we crossed the bridge1 and were passing by a deserted house on our left hand1 when a man appeared from under the porch4 ,what ,i am about to state will seem incomprehensible1 but a singular history and a singular people are connected with it3 the man placed himself before my horse so as to bar the way1 and said1 8,schophon10 which1 in the ,hebrew tongue1 signifies a rabbit4 #bje ,i knew this word to be one of the ,jewish countersigns1 and asked the man if he had anything to communicate8 ,he said1 8,you must not enter the town1 for a net is prepared for you4 ,the corregidor of ,toledo1 on whom may all evil light1 in order to give pleasure to the priests of ,maria1 in whose face ,i spit1 has ordered all the alcaldes of these parts1 and the escribanos and the corchetes to lay hands on you wherever they may find you1 and to send you1 and your books1 and all that pertains to you to ,toledo4 ,your servant was seized this morning in the town above1 as he was selling the writings in the streets1 and they are now awaiting your arrival in the posada2 but ,i knew you from the accounts of my brethren1 and ,i have been waiting here four hours to give you warning in order that your horse may turn his tail to your enemies1 and neigh in derision of them4 ,fear nothing for your servant1 for he is known to the alcalde1 and will be set at liberty2 but do you flee1 and may ,god attend you40 ,having said this1 he hurried towards the town4 ,i hesitated not a moment to take his advice1 knowing full well that1 as my books had been taken possession of1 ,i could do no more in that quarter4 ,we turned back in the direction of ,aranjuez1 the horses1 notwithstanding the nature of the ground1 galloping at full speed2 but our adventures were not over4 ,midway1 and about half a league from the village of ,antigola1 we saw close to us on our left hand three men on a low bank4 ,as far as the darkness would permit us to distinguish1 they were naked1 but each bore in his hand a long gun4 ,these were rateros1 or the common assassins and robbers of the roads4 ,we halted and cried out1 8,who goes there80 ,they replied1 8,what's that to you8 pass by40 ,their drift was to fire at us from a position from which it would be impossible to miss4 ,we shouted1 8,if you do not instantly pass to the right side of the road we will tread you down beneath the horses' hoofs40 ,they hesitated and then obeyed1 for all assassins are dastards1 and the least show of resolution daunts them4 ,as we galloped past1 one cried1 with an obscene oath1 8,shall we fire80 ,but another said1 8,no1 no6 there's danger40 ,we reached ,aranjuez1 where early next morning ,lopez rejoined us1 and we returned to ,madrid4 ,i am sorry to state that two hundred ,testaments were seized at ,ocaa1 from whence1 after being sealed up1 they were despatched to ,toledo4 ,lopez informed me1 that in two hours he could have sold them all1 the demand was so great4 ,as it was1 twenty-seven were disposed of in less than ten minutes4 8,ride on1 because of the word of righteousness40 ,notwithstanding the check which we had experienced at ,ocaa1 we were far from being discouraged1 and forthwith prepared ourselves for another expedition4 ,as we returned from ,aranjuez to ,madrid1 my eyes had frequently glanced towards the mighty wall of mountains dividing the two ,castiles1 and ,i said to myself1 8,would it not be well to cross those hills1 and commence operations on the other side1 even in ,old ,castile8 ,there ,i am unknown1 and intelligence of my proceedings can scarcely have been transmitted thither4 ,peradventure the enemy is asleep1 and before he has roused himself1 ,i may have sown much of the precious seed amongst the villages of the ,old ,castilians4 ,to ,castile1 therefore1 to ,castilla la ,vieja60 ,accordingly1 on the day after my arrival1 ,i despatched several cargoes of books to various places which ,i proposed to visit1 and sent forward ,lopez and his donkey1 well laden1 with directions to meet me on a particular day beneath a particular arch of the aqueduct of ,segovia4 ,i likewise gave him orders to engage any persons willing to co-operate with us in the circulation of the ,scriptures1 and who might be likely to prove of utility in the enterprise4 ,a more useful assistant than ,lopez in an expedition of this kind it was impossible to have4 ,he was not only well acquainted with the country1 but had friends1 and even connexions on the other side of the hills1 in whose houses he assured me that we should at all times find a hearty welcome4 ,he departed in high spirits1 exclaiming1 8,be of good cheer1 ,don ,jorge2 before we return we will have disposed of every copy of your evangelic library4 ,down with the friars6 ,down with superstition6 ,viva ,inglaterra1 viva el ,evangelio60 ,in a few days ,i followed with ,antonio4 ,we ascended the mountains by the pass called ,pea ,cerrada1 which lies about three leagues to the eastward of that of ,guadarrama4 ,it is very unfrequented1 the high road between the two ,castiles passing through ,guadarrama4 ,it has1 moreover1 an evil name1 being1 according to common report1 infested with banditti4 ,the sun was just setting when we reached the top of the hills1 and entered a thick and gloomy pine forest1 which entirely covers the mountains on the side of ,old ,castile4 ,the descent soon became so rapid and precipitous1 that we were fain to dismount from our horses and to drive them before us4 ,into the woods we plunged deeper and deeper still2 night-birds soon began to hoot and cry1 and millions of crickets commenced their shrill chirping above1 below1 and around us4 ,occasionally1 amidst the trees at a distance1 we could see blazes1 as if from immense fires4 8,they are those of the charcoal-burners1 mon matre10 said ,antonio2 8we will not go near them1 however1 for they are savage people1 and half bandits4 ,many is the traveller whom they have robbed and murdered in these horrid wildernesses40 ,it was blackest night when we arrived at the foot of the mountains2 we were still1 however1 amidst woods and pine forests1 which extended for leagues in every direction4 8,we shall scarcely reach ,segovia to-night1 mon matre10 said ,antonio4 ,and so indeed it proved1 for we became bewildered1 and at last arrived where two roads branched off in different directions3 we took not the left-hand road1 which would have conducted us to ,segovia1 but turned to the right1 in the direction of ,la ,granja1 where we arrived at midnight4 ,we found the desolation of ,la ,granja #bjh far greater than that of ,aranjuez2 both had suffered from the absence of royalty1 but the former to a degree which was truly appalling4 ,nine-tenths of the inhabitants had left this place1 which1 until the late military revolution1 had been the favourite residence of ,christina4 ,so great is the solitude of ,la ,granja1 that wild boars from the neighbouring forests1 and especially from the beautiful pine-covered mountain which rises like a cone directly behind the palace1 frequently find their way into the streets and squares1 and whet their tusks against the pillars of the porticos4 8,ride on1 because of the word of righteousness40 ,after a stay of twenty-four hours at ,la ,granja1 we proceeded to ,segovia4 ,the day had arrived on which ,i had appointed to meet ,lopez4 ,i repaired to the aqueduct1 and sat down beneath the hundred and seventh arch1 where ,i waited the greater part of the day1 but he came not1 whereupon ,i arose and went into the city4 ,at ,segovia ,i tarried two days in the house of a friend2 still ,i could hear nothing of ,lopez4 ,at last1 by the greatest chance in the world1 ,i heard from a peasant that there were men in the neighbourhood of ,abades selling books4 ,abades is about three leagues distant from ,segovia1 and upon receiving this intelligence1 ,i instantly departed for the former place1 with three donkeys laden with ,testaments4 ,i reached ,abades at nightfall1 and found ,lopez1 with two peasants whom he had engaged1 in the house of the surgeon of the place1 where ,i also took up my residence4 ,he had already disposed of a considerable number of ,testaments in the neighbourhood1 and had that day commenced selling at ,abades itself4 ,he had1 however1 been interrupted by two of the three curas of the village1 who1 with horrid curses1 denounced the work1 threatening eternal condemnation to ,lopez for selling it1 and to any person who should purchase it2 whereupon ,lopez1 terrified1 forbore until ,i should arrive4 ,the third cura1 however1 exerted himself to the utmost to persuade the people to provide themselves with ,testaments1 telling them that his brethren were hypocrites and false guides1 who1 by keeping them in ignorance of the word and will of ,christ1 were leading them to the abyss4 ,upon receiving this information1 ,i instantly sallied forth to the market-place1 and that same night succeeded in disposing of upwards of thirty ,testaments4 ,the next morning the house was entered by the two factious curas2 but upon my rising to confront them1 they retreated1 and ,i heard no more of them1 except that they publicly cursed me in the church more than once1 an event which1 as no ill resulted from it1 gave me little concern4 ,i will not detail the events of the next week2 suffice it to say that1 arranging my forces in the most advantageous way1 ,i succeeded1 by ,god's assistance1 in disposing of from five to six hundred ,testaments amongst the villages from one to seven leagues' distance from ,abades4 ,at the expiration of that period ,i received information that my proceedings were known in ,segovia1 in which province ,abades is situated1 and that an order was about to be sent to the alcalde to seize all books in my possession4 ,whereupon1 notwithstanding that it was late in the evening1 ,i decamped with all my people1 and upwards of three hundred ,testaments1 having a few hours previously received a fresh supply from ,madrid4 ,that night we passed in the fields1 and next morning proceeded to ,labajos1 a village on the high-road from ,madrid to ,valladolid4 ,in this place we offered no books for sale1 but contented ourselves with supplying the neighbouring villages with the ,word of ,god2 we likewise sold it in the highways4 ,picture3 ,segovia ,we had not been at ,labajos a week1 during which time we were remarkably successful1 when the ,carlist chieftain1 ,balmaseda1 #baa;a at the head of his cavalry1 made his desperate inroad into the southern part of ,old ,castile1 dashing down like an avalanche from the pine-woods of ,soria4 ,i was present at all the horrors which ensued1--the sack of ,arrevalo1 and the forcible entry into ,martin ,muoz4 ,amidst these terrible scenes we continued our labours4 ,suddenly ,i lost ,lopez for three days1 and suffered dreadful anxiety on his account1 imagining that he had been shot by the ,carlists2 at last ,i heard that he was in prison at ,villallos1 three leagues distant4 ,the steps which ,i took to rescue him will be found detailed in a communication1 which ,i deemed it my duty to transmit to ,lord ,william ,hervey1 who1 in the absence of ,sir ,george ,villiers1 #baa;b now become ,earl of ,clarendon1 fulfilled the duties of minister at ,madrid3-- 8,labajos1 ,province of ,segovia1 8,august #bcrd1 #ahch4 8,,my ,,lord1 8,i beg leave to call your attention to the following facts4 ,on the #bast inst4 ,i received information that a person in my employ1 of the name of ,juan ,lopez1 had been thrown into the prison of ,villallos1 in the province of ,avila1 by order of the cura of that place4 ,the crime with which he was charged was selling the ,new ,testament4 ,i was at that time at ,labajos1 in the province of ,segovia1 and the division of the factious chieftain ,balmaseda was in the immediate neighbourhood4 ,on the #bbnd1 ,i mounted my horse and rode to ,villallos1 a distance of three leagues4 ,on my arrival there1 ,i found that ,lopez had been removed from the prison to a private house4 ,an order had arrived from the corregidor of ,avila1 commanding that the person of ,lopez should be set at liberty1 and that the books which had been found in his possession should be alone detained4 ,nevertheless1 in direct opposition to this order 7a copy of which ,i herewith transmit71 the alcalde of ,villallos1 at the instigation of the cura1 refused to permit the said ,lopez to quit the place1 either to proceed to ,avila or in any other direction4 ,it had been hinted to ,lopez that as the factious were expected1 it was intended on their arrival to denounce him to them as a liberal1 and to cause him to be sacrificed4 ,taking these circumstances into consideration1 ,i deemed it my duty1 as a ,christian and a gentleman1 to rescue my unfortunate servant from such lawless hands1 and in consequence1 defying opposition1 ,i bore him off1 though entirely unarmed1 through a crowd of at least one hundred peasants4 ,on leaving the place ,i shouted1 #8,viva ,isabel ,segunda4' 8,as it is my belief that the cura of ,villallos is a person capable of any infamy1 ,i beg leave humbly to intreat your ,lordship to cause a copy of the above narration to be forwarded to the ,spanish ,government4 8,i have the honour to remain1 8,my ,lord1 8,your ,lordship's most obedient1 8,,george ,,borrow4 8,to the ,right ,honourable 8,,lord ,,william ,,hervey40 ,after the rescue of ,lopez we proceeded in the work of distribution4 ,suddenly1 however1 the symptoms of an approaching illness came over me1 which compelled us to return in all haste to ,madrid4 ,arrived there1 ,i was attacked by a fever which confined me to my bed for several weeks2 occasional fits of delirium came over me1 during one of which ,i imagined myself in the market-place of ,martin ,muoz1 engaged in deadly struggle with the chieftain ,balmaseda4 ,the fever had scarcely departed1 when a profound melancholy took possession of me1 which entirely disqualified me for active exertion4 ,change of scene and air was recommended2 ,i therefore returned to ,england4 #bac ,,chapter ,,xlv4 ,return to ,spain--,seville--,a ,hoary ,persecutor--,manchegan ,prophetess--,antonio's ,dream4 ,on ,december #ca1 #ahch1 ,i again visited ,spain for the third time4 ,after staying a day or two at ,cadiz1 ,i repaired to ,seville1 from which place ,i proposed starting for ,madrid with the mail post4 ,here ,i tarried about a fortnight1 enjoying the delicious climate of this terrestrial paradise1 and the balmy breezes of the ,andalusian winter1 even as ,i had done two years previously4 ,before leaving ,seville ,i visited the bookseller1 my correspondent1 who informed me that seventy-six copies of the hundred ,testaments entrusted to his care had been placed in embargo by the government last summer1 and that they were at the present time in possession of the ecclesiastical governor2 whereupon ,i determined to visit this functionary also1 with the view of making inquiries concerning the property4 ,he lived in a large house in the ,pajaria1 or straw-market4 ,he was a very old man1 between seventy and eighty1 and1 like the generality of those who wear the sacerdotal habit in this city1 was a fierce persecuting ,papist4 ,i imagine that he scarcely believed his ears when his two grand-nephews1 beautiful black-haired boys who were playing in the courtyard1 ran to inform him that an ,englishman was waiting to speak with him1 as it is probable that ,i was the first heretic who ever ventured into his habitation4 ,i found him in a vaulted room1 seated on a lofty chair1 with two sinister-looking secretaries1 also in sacerdotal habits1 employed in writing at a table before him4 ,he brought powerfully to my mind the grim old inquisitor who persuaded ,philip the ,second to slay his own son #bae as an enemy to the ,church4 ,he rose as ,i entered1 and gazed upon me with a countenance dark with suspicion and dissatisfaction4 ,he at last condescended to point me to a sofa1 and ,i proceeded to state to him my business4 ,he became much agitated when ,i mentioned the ,testaments to him2 but ,i no sooner spoke of the ,bible ,society and told him who ,i was1 than he could contain himself no longer3 with a stammering tongue1 and with eyes flashing fire like hot coals1 he proceeded to rail against the society and myself1 saying that the aims of the first were atrocious1 and that1 as to myself1 he was surprised that1 being once lodged in the prison of ,madrid1 ,i had ever been permitted to quit it2 adding1 that it was disgraceful in the government to allow a person of my character to roam about an innocent and peaceful country1 corrupting the minds of the ignorant and unsuspicious4 ,far from allowing myself to be disconcerted by his rude behaviour1 ,i replied to him with all possible politeness1 and assured him that in this instance he had no reason to alarm himself1 as my sole motive in claiming the books in question was to avail myself of an opportunity which at present presented itself1 of sending them out of the country1 which1 indeed1 ,i had been commanded to do by an official notice4 ,but nothing would soothe him1 and he informed me that he should not deliver up the books on any condition1 save by a positive order of the government4 ,as the matter was by no means an affair of consequence1 ,i thought it wise not to persist1 and also prudent to take my leave before he requested me4 ,i was followed even down into the street by his niece and grand-nephews1 who1 during the whole of the conversation1 had listened at the door of the apartment and heard every word4 ,in passing through ,la ,mancha1 we stayed for four hours at ,manzanares1 a large village4 ,i was standing in the market-place conversing with a curate1 when a frightful ragged object presented itself2 it was a girl about eighteen or nineteen1 perfectly blind1 a white film being spread over her huge staring eyes4 ,her countenance was as yellow as that of a ,mulatto4 ,i thought at first that she was a gypsy1 and addressing myself to her1 inquired in ,gitano if she were of that race4 ,she understood me1 but shaking her head1 replied1 that she was something better than a ,gitana1 and could speak something better than that jargon of witches3 whereupon she commenced asking me several questions in exceedingly good ,latin4 ,i was of course very much surprised1 but1 summoning all my ,latinity1 ,i called her ,manchegan ,prophetess1 and1 expressing my admiration for her learning1 begged to be informed by what means she became possessed of it4 ,i must here observe that a crowd instantly gathered around us1 who1 though they understood not one word of our discourse1 at every sentence of the girl shouted applause1 proud in the possession of a prophetess who could answer the ,englishman4 ,she informed me that she was born blind1 and that a ,jesuit priest had taken compassion on her when she was a child1 and had taught her the holy language1 in order that the attention and hearts of ,christians might be more easily turned towards her4 ,i soon discovered that he had taught her something more than ,latin1 for upon telling her that ,i was an ,englishman1 she said that she had always loved ,britain1 which was once the nursery of saints and sages2 for example1 ,bede and ,alcuin1 ,columbus and ,thomas of ,canterbury2 but1 she added1 those times had gone by since the reappearance of ,semiramis 7,elizabeth74 ,her ,latin was truly excellent1 and when ,i1 like a genuine ,goth1 spoke of ,anglia and ,terra ,vandalica 7,andalusia71 #bag she corrected me by saying1 that in her language those places were called ,britannia and ,terra ,betica4 ,when we had finished our discourse1 a gathering was made for the prophetess1 the very poorest contributing something4 ,after travelling four days and nights1 we arrived at ,madrid without having experienced the slightest accident1 though it is but just to observe1 and always with gratitude to the ,almighty1 that the next mail was stopped4 ,a singular incident befell me immediately after my arrival4 ,on entering the arch of the posada called ,la ,reyna1 where ,i intended to put up1 ,i found myself encircled in a person's arms1 and on turning round in amazement1 beheld my ,greek servant1 ,antonio4 ,he was haggard and ill-dressed1 and his eyes seemed starting from their sockets4 ,as soon as we were alone he informed me that since my departure he had undergone great misery and destitution1 having1 during the whole period1 been unable to find a master in need of his services1 so that he was brought nearly to the verge of desperation2 but that on the night immediately preceding my arrival he had a dream1 in which he saw me1 mounted on a black horse1 ride up to the gate of the posada1 and that on that account he had been waiting there during the greater part of the day4 ,i do not pretend to offer an opinion concerning this narrative1 which is beyond the reach of my philosophy1 and shall content myself with observing1 that only two individuals in ,madrid were aware of my arrival in ,spain4 ,i was very glad to receive him again into my service1 as1 notwithstanding his faults1 he had in many instances proved of no slight assistance to me in my wanderings and ,biblical labours4 ,i was soon settled in my former lodgings1 when one of my first cares was to pay a visit to ,lord ,clarendon4 #bah ,amongst other things1 he informed me that he had received an official notice from the government1 stating the seizure of the ,new ,testaments at ,ocaa1 the circumstances relating to which ,i have described on a former occasion1 and informing him that unless steps were instantly taken to remove them from the country1 they would be destroyed at ,toledo1 to which place they had been conveyed4 ,i replied that ,i should give myself no trouble about the matter2 and that if the authorities of ,toledo1 civil or ecclesiastic1 determined upon burning these books1 my only hope was that they would commit them to the flames with all possible publicity1 as by so doing they would but manifest their own hellish rancour and their hostility to the ,word of ,god4 ,being eager to resume my labours1 ,i had no sooner arrived at ,madrid than ,i wrote to ,lopez at ,villa ,seca1 for the purpose of learning whether he was inclined to co-operate in the work1 as on former occasions4 ,in reply he informed me that he was busily employed in his agricultural pursuits3 to supply his place1 however1 he sent over an elderly villager1 ,victoriano ,lopez by name1 a distant relation of his own4 ,what is a missionary in the heart of ,spain without a horse8 ,which consideration induced me now to purchase an ,arabian of high caste1 which had been brought from ,algiers by an officer of the ,french legion4 ,the name of this steed1 the best1 ,i believe1 that ever issued from the desert1 was ,sidi ,habismilk4 #bai ,,chapter ,,xlvi4 ,work of ,distribution resumed--,adventure at ,cobea--,power of the ,clergy--,rural ,authorities--,fuente la ,higuera--,victoriano's ,mishap--,village ,prison--,the ,rope--,antonio's ,errand--,antonio at ,mass4 ,in my last chapter ,i stated that1 immediately after my arrival at ,madrid1 ,i proceeded to get everything in readiness for commencing operations in the neighbourhood3 and ,i soon entered upon my labours in reality4 ,considerable success attended my feeble efforts in the good cause1 for which at present1 after the lapse of some years1 ,i still look back with gratitude to the ,almighty4 ,all the villages within the distance of four leagues to the east of ,madrid were visited in less than a fortnight1 and ,testaments to the number of nearly two hundred disposed of4 ,these villages for the most part are very small1 some of them consisting of not more than a dozen houses1 or ,i should rather say miserable cabins4 ,i left ,antonio1 my ,greek1 to superintend matters in ,madrid1 and proceeded with ,victoriano1 the peasant1 from ,villa ,seca1 in the direction which ,i have already mentioned4 ,we1 however1 soon parted company and pursued different routes4 ,the first village at which ,i made an attempt was ,cobea1 about three leagues from ,madrid4 ,i was dressed in the fashion of the peasants in the neighbourhood of ,segovia1 in ,old ,castile1 namely1 ,i had on my head a species of leather helmet or montera1 with a jacket and trousers of the same material4 ,i had the appearance of a person between sixty and seventy years of age1 and drove before me a borrico with a sack of ,testaments lying across its back4 ,on nearing the village1 ,i met a genteel-looking young woman leading a little boy by the hand4 ,as ,i was about to pass her1 with the customary salutation of vaya usted con ,dios1 she stopped1 and1 after looking at me for a moment1 she said1 8,uncle1 #bba;a what is that you have got on your borrico8 ,is it soap80 8,yes10 ,i replied2 8it is soap to wash souls clean40 ,she demanded what ,i meant2 whereupon ,i told her that ,i carried cheap and godly books for sale4 ,on her requesting to see one1 ,i produced a copy from my pocket and handed it to her4 ,she instantly commenced reading with a loud voice1 and continued so for at least ten minutes1 occasionally exclaiming1 8,que lectura tan bonita1 que lectura tan linda60 #bba;b ,at last1 on my informing her that ,i was in a hurry1 and could not wait any longer1 she said1 8,true1 true10 and asked me the price of the book2 ,i told her 8,but three reals10 whereupon she said1 that though what ,i asked was very little1 it was more than she could afford to give1 as there was little or no money in those parts4 ,i said ,i was sorry for it1 but that ,i could not dispose of the books for less than ,i had demanded1 and accordingly1 resuming it1 wished her farewell1 and left her4 ,i had not1 however1 proceeded thirty yards1 when the boy came running behind me1 shouting1 out of breath1 8,stop1 uncle1 the book1 the book60 ,upon overtaking me1 he delivered the three reals in copper1 and seizing the ,testament1 ran back to her1 who ,i suppose was his sister1 flourishing the book over his head with great glee4 ,on arriving at the village1 ,i directed my steps to a house1 around the door of which ,i saw several people gathered1 chiefly women4 ,on my displaying my books1 their curiosity was instantly aroused1 and every person had speedily one in his hand1 many reading aloud2 however1 after waiting nearly an hour1 ,i had disposed of but one copy1 all complaining bitterly of the distress of the times1 and the almost total want of money1 though1 at the same time1 they acknowledged that the books were wonderfully cheap1 and appeared to be very good and ,christian-like4 ,i was about to gather up my merchandise and depart1 when on a sudden the curate of the place made his appearance4 ,after having examined the books for some time with considerable attention1 he asked me the price of a copy1 and upon my informing him that it was three reals1 he replied that the binding was worth more1 and that he was much afraid that ,i had stolen the books1 and that it was perhaps his duty to send me to prison as a suspicious character2 but added1 that the books were good books1 however they might be obtained1 and concluded by purchasing two copies4 ,the poor people no sooner heard their curate recommend the volumes1 than all were eager to secure one1 and hurried here and there for the purpose of procuring money1 so that between twenty and thirty copies were sold almost in an instant4 ,this adventure not only affords an instance of the power still possessed by the ,spanish clergy over the minds of the people1 but proves that such influence is not always exerted in a manner favourable to the maintenance of ignorance and superstition4 ,in another village1 on my showing a ,testament to a woman1 she said that she had a child at school for whom she should like to purchase one1 but that she must first know whether the book was calculated to be of service to him4 ,she then went away1 and presently returned with the schoolmaster1 followed by all the children under his care2 she then1 showing the schoolmaster a book1 inquired if it would answer for her son4 ,the schoolmaster called her a simpleton for asking such a question1 and said that he knew the book well1 and there was not its equal in the world4 #bbc ,he instantly purchased five copies for his pupils1 regretting that he had no more money1 8for if ,i had10 said he1 8,i would buy the whole cargo40 ,upon hearing this1 the woman purchased four copies1 namely1 one for her living son1 another for her deceased husband1 a third for herself1 and a fourth for her brother1 whom she said she was expecting home that night from ,madrid4 ,in this manner we proceeded2 not1 however1 with uniform success4 ,in some villages the people were so poor and needy that they had literally no money2 even in these1 however1 we managed to dispose of a few copies in exchange for barley or refreshments4 ,on entering one very small hamlet1 ,victoriano was stopped by the curate1 who1 on learning what he carried1 told him1 that unless he instantly departed1 he would cause him to be imprisoned1 and would write to ,madrid in order to give information of what was going on4 ,the excursion lasted about eight days4 ,immediately after my return1 ,i despatched ,victoriano to ,caramanchel1 #bbd;a a village at a short distance from ,madrid1 the only one towards the west which had not been visited last year4 ,he stayed there about an hour1 and disposed of twelve copies1 and then returned1 as he was exceedingly timid1 and was afraid of being met by the thieves who swarm on that road in the evening4 ,shortly after these events1 a circumstance occurred which will1 perhaps1 cause the ,english reader to smile1 whilst1 at the same time1 it will not fail to prove interesting1 as affording an example of the feeling prevalent in some of the lone villages of ,spain with respect to innovation and all that savours thereof1 and the strange acts which are sometimes committed by the rural authorities and the priests1 without the slightest fear of being called to account2 for as they live quite apart from the rest of the world1 they know no people greater than themselves1 and scarcely dream of a higher power than their own4 #bbd;b ,i was about to make an excursion to ,guadalajara1 and the villages of ,alcarria1 about seven leagues distant from ,madrid2 indeed1 ,i merely awaited the return of ,victoriano to sally forth2 ,i having despatched him in that direction with a few ,testaments1 as a kind of explorer1 in order that1 from his report as to the disposition manifested by the people for purchasing1 ,i might form a tolerably accurate opinion as to the number of copies which it might be necessary to carry with me4 ,however1 ,i heard nothing of him for a fortnight1 at the end of which period a letter was brought to me by a peasant1 dated from the prison of ,fuente la ,higuera1 a village eight leagues from ,madrid1 in the campia of ,alcal3 #bbe this letter1 written by ,victoriano1 gave me to understand that he had been already eight days imprisoned1 and that unless ,i could find some means to extricate him1 there was every probability of his remaining in durance until he should perish with hunger1 which he had no doubt would occur as soon as his money was exhausted4 ,from what ,i afterwards learned1 it appeared that1 after passing the town of ,alcal1 he had commenced distributing1 and with considerable success4 ,his entire stock consisted of sixty-one ,testaments1 twenty-five of which he sold without the slightest difficulty or interruption in the single village of ,arganza2 the poor labourers showering blessings on his head for providing them with such good books at an easy price4 ,not more than eighteen of his books remained1 when he turned off the high-road towards ,fuente la ,higuera4 ,this place was already tolerably well known to him1 he having visited it of old1 when he travelled the country in the capacity of a vender of cacharras1 or earthen pans4 ,he subsequently stated that he felt some misgiving whilst on the way1 as the village had invariably borne a bad reputation4 ,on his arrival1 after having put up his caballejo1 or little pony1 at a posada1 he proceeded to the alcalde for the purpose of asking permission to sell the books1 which that dignitary immediately granted4 ,he now entered a house and sold a copy1 and likewise a second4 ,emboldened by success1 he entered a third1 which1 it appeared1 belonged to the barber-surgeon of the village4 ,this personage1 having just completed his dinner1 was seated in an armchair within his doorway1 when ,victoriano made his appearance4 ,he was a man about thirty-five1 of a savage truculent countenance4 ,on ,victoriano's offering him a ,testament1 he took it in his hand to examine it2 but no sooner did his eyes glance over the title-page than he burst out into a loud laugh1 exclaiming1 8,ha1 ha1 ,don ,jorge ,borrow1 the ,english heretic1 we have encountered you at last4 ,glory to the ,virgin and the ,saints6 ,we have long been expecting you here1 and at length you are arrived40 ,he then inquired the price of the book1 and on being told three reals1 he flung down two1 and rushed out of the house with the ,testament in his hand4 ,victoriano now became alarmed1 and determined upon leaving the place as soon as possible4 ,he therefore hurried back to the posada1 and having paid for the barley which his pony had consumed1 went into the stable1 and placing the packsaddle on the animal's back1 was about to lead it forth1 when the alcalde of the village1 the surgeon1 and twelve other men1 some of whom were armed with muskets1 suddenly presented themselves4 ,they instantly made ,victoriano prisoner2 and1 after seizing the books and laying an embargo on the pony1 proceeded1 amidst much abuse1 to drag the captive to what they denominated their prison1 a low damp apartment with a little grated window1 where they locked him up and left him4 ,at the expiration of three-quarters of an hour they again appeared1 and conducted him to the house of the curate1 where they sat down in conclave2 the curate1 who was a man stone blind1 presiding1 whilst the sacristan officiated as secretary4 ,the surgeon having stated his accusation against the prisoner--namely1 that he had detected him in the act of selling a version of the ,scriptures in the vulgar tongue--the curate proceeded to examine ,victoriano1 asking him his name and place of residence2 to which he replied that his name was ,victoriano ,lopez1 and that he was a native of ,villa ,seca1 in the ,sagra of ,toledo4 ,the curate then demanded what religion he professed8 and whether he was a ,mahometan or freemason8 and received for answer that he was a ,roman ,catholic4 ,i must here state that ,victoriano1 though sufficiently shrewd in his way1 was a poor old labourer of sixty-four2 and until that moment had never heard either of ,mahometans or freemasons4 ,the curate becoming now incensed1 called him a tunante1 or scoundrel1 and added1 8,you have sold your soul to a heretic2 we have long been aware of your proceedings1 and those of your master4 ,you are the same ,lopez whom he last year rescued from the prison of ,villallos1 in the province of ,avila2 ,i sincerely hope that he will attempt to do the same thing here40 8,yes1 yes10 shouted the rest of the conclave1 8let him but venture here1 and we will shed his heart's blood on our stones40 ,in this manner they went on for nearly half an hour4 ,at last they broke up the meeting1 and conducted ,victoriano once more to his prison4 ,during his confinement he lived tolerably well1 being in possession of money4 ,his meals were sent him twice a day from the posada1 where his pony remained in embargo4 ,once or twice he asked permission of the alcalde1 who visited him every night and morning with his armed guard1 to purchase pen and paper1 in order that he might write to ,madrid2 but this favour was peremptorily refused him1 and all the inhabitants of the village were forbidden under terrible penalties to afford him the means of writing1 or to convey any message from him beyond the precincts of the place1 and two boys were stationed before the window of his cell for the purpose of watching everything which might be conveyed to him4 ,it happened one day that ,victoriano1 being in need of a pillow1 sent word to the people of the posada to send him his alforjas1 or saddle-bags1 which they did4 ,in these bags there chanced to be a kind of rope1 or1 as it is called in ,spanish1 soga1 with which he was in the habit of fastening his satchel to the pony's back4 ,the urchins seeing an end of this rope1 hanging from the alforjas1 instantly ran to the alcalde to give him information4 ,late at evening1 the alcalde again visited the prisoner at the head of his twelve men as usual4 8,buenos noches10 #bbh;a said the alcalde4 8,buenas noches tenga usted10 #bbh;b replied ,victoriano4 8,for what purpose did you send for the soga this afternoon80 demanded the functionary4 8,i sent for no soga10 said the prisoner2 8,i sent for my alforjas to serve as a pillow1 and it was sent in them by chance40 8,you are a false1 malicious knave10 retorted the alcalde2 8you intend to hang yourself1 and by so doing ruin us all1 as your death would be laid at our door4 ,give me the soga40 ,no greater insult can be offered to a ,spaniard than to tax him with an intention of committing suicide4 ,poor ,victoriano flew into a violent rage2 and1 after calling the alcalde several very uncivil names1 he pulled the soga from his bags1 flung it at his head1 and told him to take it home and use it for his own neck4 ,at length the people of the posada took pity on the prisoner1 perceiving that he was very harshly treated for no crime at all2 they therefore determined to afford him an opportunity of informing his friends of his situation1 and accordingly sent him a pen and inkhorn1 concealed in a loaf of bread1 and a piece of writing-paper1 pretending that the latter was intended for cigars4 ,so ,victoriano wrote the letter3 but now ensued the difficulty of sending it to its destination1 as no person in the village dare have carried it for any reward4 ,the good people1 however1 persuaded a disbanded soldier from another village1 who chanced to be at ,fuente la ,higuera in quest of work1 to charge himself with it1 assuring him that ,i would pay him well for his trouble4 ,the man1 watching his opportunity1 received the letter from ,victoriano at the window3 and it was he who1 after travelling on foot all night1 delivered it to me in safety at ,madrid4 ,i was now relieved from my anxiety1 and had no fears for the result4 ,i instantly went to a friend who is in possession of large estates about ,guadalajara1 in which province ,fuenta la ,higuera is situated1 who furnished me with letters to the civil governor of ,guadalajara and all the principal authorities2 these ,i delivered to ,antonio1 whom1 at his own request1 ,i despatched on the errand of the prisoner's liberation4 ,he first directed his course to ,fuente la ,higuera1 where1 entering the alcalde's house1 he boldly told him what he had come about4 ,the alcalde1 expecting that ,i was at hand1 with an army of ,englishmen1 for the purpose of rescuing the prisoner1 became greatly alarmed1 and instantly despatched his wife to summon his twelve men3 however1 on ,antonio's assuring him that there was no intention of having recourse to violence1 he became more tranquil4 ,in a short time ,antonio was summoned before the conclave and its blind sacerdotal president4 ,they at first attempted to frighten him by assuming a loud bullying tone1 and talking of the necessity of killing all strangers1 and especially the detested ,don ,jorge and his dependents4 ,antonio1 however1 who was not a person apt to allow himself to be easily terrified1 scoffed at their threats1 and1 showing them his letters to the authorities of ,guadalajara1 said that he should proceed there on the morrow and denounce their lawless conduct2 adding that he was a ,turkish subject1 and that should they dare to offer him the slightest incivility1 he would write to the ,sublime ,porte1 in comparison with whom the best kings in the world were but worms1 and who would not fail to avenge the wrongs of any of his children1 however distant1 in a manner too terrible to be mentioned4 ,he then returned to his posada4 ,the conclave now proceeded to deliberate amongst themselves1 and at last determined to send their prisoner on the morrow to ,guadalajara1 and deliver him into the hands of the civil governor4 ,nevertheless1 in order to keep up a semblance of authority1 they that night placed two men armed at the door of the posada where ,antonio was lodged1 as if he himself was a prisoner4 ,these men1 as often as the clock struck the hour1 shouted1 8,ave ,maria6 ,death to the heretics60 ,early in the morning the alcalde presented himself at the posada2 but before entering he made an oration at the door to the people in the street1 saying1 amongst other things1 8,brethren1 these are the fellows who have come to rob us of our religion40 ,he then went in to ,antonio's apartment1 and after saluting him with great politeness1 said1 that as a royal or high ,mass was about to be celebrated that morning1 he had come to invite him to go to church with him4 ,whereupon ,antonio1 though by no means a ,mass-goer1 rose and accompanied him1 and remained two hours1 as he told me1 on his knees on the cold stones1 to his great discomfort2 the eyes of the whole congregation being fixed upon him during the time4 ,after ,mass and breakfast1 he departed for ,guadalajara1 ,victoriano having been already despatched under a guard4 ,on his arrival1 he presented his letters to the individuals for whom they were intended4 ,the civil governor was convulsed with merriment on hearing ,antonio's account of the adventure4 ,victoriano was set at liberty1 and the books were placed in embargo at ,guadalajara2 the governor stating1 however1 that though it was his duty to detain them at present1 they should be sent to me whenever ,i chose to claim them3 he1 moreover1 said that he would do his best to cause the authorities of ,fuente la ,higuera to be severely punished1 as in the whole affair they had acted in the most cruel1 tyrannical manner1 for which they had no authority4 ,thus terminated this affair3 one of those little accidents which chequer missionary life in ,spain4 ,,chapter ,,xlvii4 ,termination of our ,rural ,labours--,alarm of the ,clergy--,a ,new ,experiment--,success at ,madrid--,goblin-,alguazil--,staff of ,office--,the ,corregidor--,an ,explanation--,the ,pope in ,england--,new ,testament expounded--,works of ,luther4 ,we proceeded in our task of distributing the ,scriptures with various success1 until the middle of ,march1 when ,i determined upon starting for ,talavera1 for the purpose of seeing what it was possible to accomplish in that town and the neighbourhood4 ,i accordingly bent my course in that direction1 accompanied by ,antonio and ,victoriano4 ,on our way thither we stopped at ,naval ,carnero1 a large village five leagues to the west of ,madrid1 where ,i remained three days1 sending forth ,victoriano to the circumjacent hamlets with small cargoes of ,testaments4 ,providence1 however1 which had hitherto so remarkably favoured us in these rural excursions1 now withdrew from us its support1 and brought them to a sudden termination3 for in whatever place the sacred writings were offered for sale1 they were forthwith seized by persons who appeared to be upon the watch2 which events compelled me to alter my intention of proceeding to ,talavera1 and to return forthwith to ,madrid4 ,i subsequently learned that our proceedings on the other side of ,madrid having caused alarm amongst the heads of the clergy1 they had made a formal complaint to the government1 who immediately sent orders to all the alcaldes of the villages1 great and small1 in ,new ,castile1 to seize the ,new ,testament wherever it might be exposed for sale2 but1 at the same time1 enjoining them to be particularly careful not to detain or maltreat the person or persons who might be attempting to vend it4 ,an exact description of myself accompanied these orders2 and the authorities1 both civil and military1 were exhorted to be on their guard against me and my arts and machinations2 for1 as the document stated1 ,i was to-day in one place1 and tomorrow at twenty leagues' distance4 ,i was not much discouraged by this blow1 which1 indeed1 did not come entirely unexpected4 ,i1 however1 determined to change the sphere of action1 and not expose the sacred volume to seizure at every step which ,i should take to circulate it4 ,in my late attempts ,i had directed my attention exclusively to the villages and small towns1 in which it was quite easy for the government to frustrate my efforts by means of circulars to the local authorities1 who would1 of course1 be on the alert1 and whose vigilance it would be impossible to baffle1 as every novelty which occurs in a small place is forthwith bruited about4 ,but the case would be widely different amongst the crowds of the capital1 where ,i could pursue my labours with comparative secrecy4 ,my present plan was to abandon the rural districts1 and to offer the sacred volume at ,madrid1 from house to house1 at the same low price as in the country4 ,this plan ,i forthwith put into execution4 ,having an extensive acquaintance amongst the lower orders1 ,i selected eight intelligent individuals to co-operate with me1 amongst whom were five women4 ,all these ,i supplied with ,testaments1 and then sent them forth to all the parishes in ,madrid4 ,the result of their efforts more than answered my expectations4 ,in less than fifteen days after my return from ,naval ,carnero1 nearly six hundred copies of the life and words of ,him of ,nazareth had been sold in the streets and alleys of ,madrid3 a fact which ,i hope ,i may be permitted to mention with gladness and with decent triumph in the ,lord4 ,one of the richest streets is the ,calle ,montera1 where reside the principal merchants and shopkeepers of ,madrid4 ,it is1 in fact1 the street of commerce1 in which respect1 and in being a favourite promenade1 it corresponds with the far-famed ,nefsky #bcd of ,saint ,petersburg4 ,every house in this street was supplied with its ,testament1 and the same might be said with respect to the ,puerta del ,sol4 ,nay1 in some instances1 every individual in the house1 man and child1 manservant and maid-servant1 was furnished with a copy4 ,my ,greek1 ,antonio1 made wonderful exertions in this quarter2 and it is but justice to say that1 but for his instrumentality1 on many occasions1 ,i might have been by no means able to give so favourable an account of the spread of 8the ,bible in ,spain40 ,there was a time when ,i was in the habit of saying 8dark ,madrid10 an expression which1 ,i thank ,god1 ,i could now drop4 ,it were scarcely just to call a city 8dark10 in which thirteen hundred ,testaments at least were in circulation1 and in daily use4 ,it was now that ,i turned to account a supply of ,bibles which ,i had received from ,barcelona1 in sheets1 at the commencement of the preceding year4 ,the demand for the entire ,scriptures was great2 indeed far greater than ,i could answer1 as the books were disposed of faster than they could be bound by the man whom ,i employed for that purpose4 ,eight-and-twenty copies were bespoken and paid for before delivery4 ,many of these ,bibles found their way into the best houses in ,madrid4 ,the ,marquis of --- had a large family1 but every individual of it1 old and young1 was in possession of a ,bible1 and likewise a ,testament1 which1 strange to say1 were recommended by the chaplain of the house4 ,one of my most zealous agents in the propagation of the ,bible was an ecclesiastic4 ,he never walked out without carrying one beneath his gown1 which he offered to the first person he met whom he thought likely to purchase4 ,another excellent assistant was an elderly gentleman of ,navarre1 enormously rich1 who was continually purchasing copies on his own account1 which he1 as ,i was told1 sent into his native province1 for distribution amongst his friends and the poor4 ,on a certain night ,i had retired to rest rather more early than usual1 being slightly indisposed4 ,i soon fell asleep1 and had continued so for some hours1 when ,i was suddenly aroused by the opening of the door of the small apartment in which ,i lay4 ,i started up1 and beheld ,maria ,diaz1 with a lamp in her hand1 enter the room4 ,i observed that her features1 which were in general peculiarly calm and placid1 wore a somewhat startled expression4 8,what is the hour1 and what brings you here80 ,i demanded4 8,seor10 said she1 closing the door1 and coming up to the bedside1 8it is close upon midnight2 but a messenger belonging to the police has just entered the house1 and demanded to see you4 ,i told him that it was impossible1 for that your worship was in bed4 ,whereupon he sneezed in my face1 and said that he would see you if you were in your coffin4 ,he has all the look of a goblin1 and has thrown me into a tremor4 ,i am far from being a timid person1 as you are aware1 ,don ,jorge2 but ,i confess that ,i never cast my eyes on these wretches of the police1 but my heart dies away within me6 ,i know them but too well1 and what they are capable of40 8,pooh10 said ,i1 8be under no apprehension2 let him come in1 ,i fear him not1 whether he be alguazil or hobgoblin4 #bcf ,stand1 however1 at the doorway1 that you may be a witness of what takes place1 as it is more than probable that he comes at this unseasonable hour to create a disturbance1 that he may have an opportunity of making an unfavourable report to his principals1 like the fellow on the former occasion40 ,the hostess left the apartment1 and ,i heard her say a word or two to some one in the passage1 whereupon there was a loud sneeze1 and in a moment after a singular figure appeared at the doorway4 ,it was that of a very old man1 with long white hair1 which escaped from beneath the eaves of an exceedingly high-peaked hat4 ,he stooped considerably1 and moved along with a shambling gait4 ,i could not see much of his face1 which1 as the landlady stood behind him with the lamp1 was consequently in deep shadow4 ,i could observe1 however1 that his eyes sparkled like those of a ferret4 ,he advanced to the foot of the bed1 in which ,i was still lying1 wondering what this strange visit could mean2 and there he stood gazing at me for a minute1 at least1 without uttering a syllable4 ,suddenly1 however1 he protruded a spare skinny hand from the cloak in which it had hitherto been enveloped1 and pointed with a short staff1 tipped with metal1 in the direction of my face1 as if he were commencing an exorcism4 ,he appeared to be about to speak1 but his words1 if he intended any1 were stifled in their birth by a sudden sternutation which escaped him1 and which was so violent that the hostess started back1 exclaiming1 8,ave ,maria pursima60 and nearly dropped the lamp in her alarm4 8,my good person10 said ,i1 8what do you mean by this foolish hobgoblinry8 ,if you have anything to communicate do so at once1 and go about your business4 ,i am unwell1 and you are depriving me of my repose40 8,by the virtue of this staff10 said the old man1 8and the authority which it gives me to do and say that which is convenient1 ,i do command1 order1 and summon you to appear to-morrow1 at the eleventh hour1 at the office of my lord the corregidor of this village of ,madrid1 #bcg in order that1 standing before him humbly1 and with befitting reverence1 you may listen to whatever he may have to say1 or1 if necessary1 may yield yourself up to receive the castigation of any crimes which you may have committed1 whether trivial or enormous4 ,tenez1 compre10 he added1 in most villanous ,french1 8voil mon affaire2 voil ce que je viens vous dire40 ,thereupon he glared at me for a moment1 nodded his head twice1 and replacing his staff beneath his cloak1 shambled out of the room1 and with a valedictory sneeze in the passage left the house4 ,precisely at eleven on the following day ,i attended at the office of the corregidor4 ,he was not the individual whose anger ,i had incurred on a former occasion1 and who had thought proper to imprison me1 but another person1 ,i believe a ,catalan1 whose name ,i have also forgotten4 ,indeed1 these civil employments were at this period given to-day and taken away tomorrow1 so that the person who held one of them for a month might consider himself a functionary of long standing4 ,i was not kept waiting a moment1 but as soon as ,i had announced myself1 was forthwith ushered into the presence of the corregidor--a good-looking1 portly1 and well-dressed personage1 seemingly about fifty4 ,he was writing at a desk when ,i entered1 but almost immediately arose and came towards me4 ,he looked me full in the face1 and ,i1 nothing abashed1 kept my eyes fixed upon his4 ,he had1 perhaps1 expected a less independent bearing1 and that ,i should have quaked and crouched before him2 but now1 conceiving himself bearded in his own den1 his old ,spanish leaven was forthwith stirred up4 ,he plucked his whiskers fiercely4 8,escuchad10 said he1 casting upon me a ferocious glance1 8,i wish to ask you a question40 8,before ,i answer any question of your excellency10 said ,i1 8,i shall take the liberty of putting one myself4 ,what law or reason is there that ,i1 a peaceable individual and a foreigner1 should have my rest disturbed by duendes and hobgoblins sent at midnight to summon me to appear at public offices like a criminal80 8,you do not speak the truth10 shouted the corregidor2 8the person sent to summon you was neither duende nor hobgoblin1 but one of the most ancient and respectable officers of this casa1 and so far from being despatched at midnight1 it wanted twenty-five minutes to that hour by my own watch when he left this office1 and as your lodging is not distant1 he must have arrived there at least ten minutes before midnight1 so that you are by no means accurate1 and are found wanting in regard to truth40 8,a distinction without a difference10 ,i replied4 8,for my own part1 if ,i am to be disturbed in my sleep1 it is of little consequence whether at midnight or ten minutes before that time2 and with respect to your messenger1 although he might not be a hobgoblin1 he had all the appearance of one1 and assuredly answered the purpose1 by frightening the woman of the house almost into fits by his hideous grimaces and sneezing convulsions40 ,corregidor4--,you are a--,i know not what4 ,do you know that ,i have the power to imprison you8 ,myself4--,you have twenty alguazils at your beck and call1 and have of course the power1 and so had your predecessor1 who nearly lost his situation by imprisoning me2 but you know full well that you have not the right1 as ,i am not under your jurisdiction1 but that of the captain-general4 ,if ,i have obeyed your summons1 it was simply because ,i had a curiosity to know what you wanted with me1 and from no other motive whatever4 ,as for imprisoning me1 ,i beg leave to assure you1 that you have my full consent to do so2 the most polite society in ,madrid is to be found in the prison1 and as ,i am at present compiling a vocabulary of the language of the ,madrilenian thieves1 ,i should have1 in being imprisoned1 an excellent opportunity of completing it4 ,there is much to be learnt even in the prison1 for1 as the gypsies say1 8,the dog that trots about finds a bone40 #bdj ,corregidor4--,your words are not those of a caballero4 ,do you forget where you are1 and in whose presence8 ,is this a fitting place to talk of thieves and gypsies in8 ,myself4--,really ,i know of no place more fitting1 unless it be the prison4 ,but we are wasting time1 and ,i am anxious to know for what ,i have been summoned2 whether for crimes trivial or enormous1 as the messenger said4 ,it was a long time before ,i could obtain the required information from the incensed corregidor2 at last1 however1 it came4 ,it appeared that a box of ,testaments1 which ,i had despatched to ,naval ,carnero1 had been seized by the local authorities1 and having been detained there for some time1 was at last sent back to ,madrid1 intended1 as it now appeared1 for the hands of the corregidor4 ,one day as it was lying at the waggon-office1 ,antonio chanced to enter on some business of his own and recognized the box1 which he instantly claimed as my property1 and having paid the carriage1 removed it to my warehouse4 ,he had considered the matter as of so little importance1 that he had not as yet mentioned it to me4 ,the poor corregidor1 however1 had no doubt that it was a deep-laid scheme to plunder and insult him4 ,and now1 working himself up into almost a frenzy of excitement1 he stamped on the ground1 exclaiming1 8,que picardia6 ,que infamia60 ,the old system1 thought ,i1 of prejudging people1 and imputing to them motives and actions of which they never dreamed4 ,i then told him frankly that ,i was entirely ignorant of the circumstance by which he had felt himself aggrieved2 but that if1 upon inquiry1 ,i found that the chest had actually been removed by my servant from the office to which it had been forwarded1 ,i would cause it forthwith to be restored1 although it was my own property4 8,i have plenty more ,testaments10 said ,i1 8and can afford to lose fifty or a hundred4 ,i am a man of peace1 and wish not to have any dispute with the authorities for the sake of an old chest and a cargo of books1 whose united value would scarcely amount to forty dollars40 ,he looked at me for a moment1 as if in doubt of my sincerity1 then1 again plucking his whiskers1 he forthwith proceeded to attack me in another quarter3 8,pero que infamia1 que picardia6 to come into ,spain for the purpose of overturning the religion of the country4 ,what would you say if the ,spaniards were to go to ,england and attempt to overturn the ,lutheranism established there80 8,they would be most heartily welcome10 ,i replied2 8more especially if they would attempt to do so by circulating the ,bible1 the book of ,christians1 even as the ,english are doing in ,spain4 ,but your excellency is not perhaps aware that the ,pope has a fair field and fair play in ,england1 and is permitted to make as many converts from ,lutheranism every day in the week as are disposed to go over to him4 ,he cannot boast1 however1 of much success2 the people are too fond of light to embrace darkness1 and would smile at the idea of exchanging their ,gospel privileges for the superstitious ceremonies and observances of the ,church of ,rome40 ,on my repeating my promise that the books and chest should be forthwith restored1 the corregidor declared himself satisfied1 and all of a sudden became excessively polite and condescending3 he even went so far as to say that he left it entirely with myself1 whether to return the books or not2 8and10 continued he1 8before you go1 ,i wish to tell you that my private opinion is1 that it is highly advisable in all countries to allow full and perfect tolerance in religious matters1 and to permit every religious system to stand or fall according to its own merits40 ,such were the concluding words of the corregidor of ,madrid1 which1 whether they expressed his private opinion or not1 were certainly grounded on sense and reason4 ,i saluted him respectfully and retired1 and forthwith performed my promise with regard to the books2 and thus terminated this affair4 ,it almost appeared to me at this time that a religious reform was commencing in ,spain2 indeed1 matters had of late come to my knowledge1 which1 had they been prophesied only a year before1 ,i should have experienced much difficulty in believing4 ,the reader will be surprised when ,i state that1 in two churches of ,madrid1 the ,new ,testament was regularly expounded every ,sunday evening1 by the respective curates1 to about twenty children who attended1 and who were all provided with copies of the society's edition of ,madrid1 #ahcg4 #bdb;a ,the churches which ,i allude to were those of ,san ,gines and ,santa ,cruz4 #bdb;b ,now1 ,i humbly conceive that this fact alone is more than equivalent to all the expense which the society had incurred in the efforts which it had been making to introduce the ,gospel into ,spain2 but be this as it may1 ,i am certain that it amply recompensed me for all the anxiety and unhappiness which ,i had undergone4 ,i now felt that whenever ,i should be compelled to discontinue my labours in the ,peninsula1 ,i should retire without the slightest murmur1 my heart being filled with gratitude to the ,lord for having permitted me1 useless vessel as ,i was1 to see at least some of the seed springing up1 which during two years ,i had been casting on the stony ground of the interior of ,spain4 ,when ,i recollected the difficulties which had encompassed our path1 ,i could sometimes hardly credit all that the ,almighty had permitted us to accomplish within the last year4 ,a large edition of the ,new ,testament had been almost entirely disposed of in the very centre of ,spain1 in spite of the opposition and the furious cry of the sanguinary priesthood and the edicts of a deceitful government1 and a spirit of religious inquiry excited1 which ,i had fervent hope would sooner or later lead to blessed and most important results4 ,till of late the name most abhorred and dreaded in these parts of ,spain was that of ,martin ,luther1 who was in general considered as a species of demon1 a cousin-german to ,belial and ,beelzebub1 who1 under the disguise of a man1 wrote and preached blasphemy against the ,highest2 yet now1 strange to say1 this once abominated personage was spoken of with no slight degree of respect4 ,people with ,bibles in their hands not unfrequently visited me1 inquiring with much earnestness1 and with no slight degree of simplicity1 for the writings of the great ,doctor ,martin1 whom1 indeed1 some supposed to be still alive4 ,it will be as well here to observe1 that of all the names connected with the ,reformation1 that of ,luther is the only one known in ,spain2 and let me add1 that no controversial writings but his are likely to be esteemed as possessing the slightest weight or authority1 however great their intrinsic merit may be4 ,the common description of tracts1 written with the view of exposing the errors of ,popery1 are therefore not calculated to prove of much benefit in ,spain1 though it is probable that much good might be accomplished by well executed translations of judicious selections from the works of ,luther4 ,,chapter ,,xlviii4 ,projected ,journey--,a ,scene of ,blood--,the ,friar--,seville--,beauties of ,seville--,orange ,trees and ,flowers--,murillo--,the ,guardian ,angel--,dionysius--,my ,coadjutors--,demand for the ,bible4 ,by the middle of ,april ,i had sold as many ,testaments as ,i thought ,madrid would bear3 ,i therefore called in my people1 for ,i was afraid to overstock the market1 and to bring the book into contempt by making it too common4 ,i had1 indeed1 by this time1 barely a thousand copies remaining of the edition which ,i had printed two years previously2 and with respect to ,bibles1 every copy was by this time disposed of1 though there was still a great demand for them1 which1 of course1 ,i was unable to satisfy4 ,with the remaining copies of the ,testament1 ,i now determined to betake myself to ,seville1 where little had hitherto been effected in the way of circulation3 my preparations were soon made4 ,the roads were at this time in a highly dangerous state1 on which account ,i thought to go along with a convoy1 which was about to start for ,andalusia4 ,two days1 however1 before its departure1 understanding that the number of people who likewise proposed to avail themselves of it was likely to be very great1 and reflecting on the slowness of this way of travelling1 and moreover the insults to which civilians were frequently subjected from the soldiers and petty officers1 ,i determined to risk the journey with the mail4 ,this resolution ,i carried into effect4 ,antonio1 whom ,i had resolved to take with me1 and my two horses1 departed with the convoy1 whilst in a few days ,i followed with the mail courier4 ,we travelled all the way without the slightest accident1 my usual wonderful good fortune accompanying us4 ,i might well call it wonderful1 for ,i was running into the den of a lion2 the whole of ,la ,mancha1 with the exception of a few fortified places1 being once more in the hands of ,palillos and his banditti1 who1 whenever it pleased them1 stopped the courier1 burnt the vehicle and letters1 murdered the paltry escort1 and carried away any chance passenger to the mountains1 where an enormous ransom was demanded1 the alternative being four shots through the head1 as the ,spaniards say4 ,the upper part of ,andalusia was becoming rapidly nearly as bad as ,la ,mancha4 ,the last time the mail had passed1 it was attacked at the defile of ,la ,rumblar #bdf by six mounted robbers2 it was guarded by an escort of as many soldiers1 but the former suddenly galloped from behind a solitary venta1 and dashed the soldiers to the ground1 who were taken quite by surprise1 the hoofs of the robbers' horses making no noise on account of the sandy nature of the ground4 ,the soldiers were instantly disarmed and bound to olive trees1 with the exception of two1 who escaped amongst the rocks2 they were then mocked and tormented by the robbers1 or rather fiends1 for nearly half an hour1 when they were shot2 the head of the corporal who commanded being blown to fragments with a blunderbuss4 ,the robbers then burned the coach1 which they accomplished by igniting the letters by means of the tow with which they light their cigars4 ,the life of the courier was saved by one of them1 who had formerly been his postilion2 he was1 however1 robbed and stripped4 ,as we passed by the scene of the butchery1 the poor fellow wept1 and1 though a ,spaniard1 cursed ,spain and the ,spaniards1 saying that he intended shortly to pass over to the ,moreria1 to confess ,mahomet1 and to learn the law of the ,moors1 for that any country and religion were better than his own4 ,he pointed to the tree where the corporal had been tied2 though much rain had fallen since1 the ground around was still saturated with blood1 and a dog was gnawing a piece of the unfortunate wretch's skull4 ,a friar travelled with us the whole way from ,madrid to ,seville2 he was of the missionaries1 and was going to the ,philippine ,islands1 to conquer 7para conquistar71 for such was his word1 by which ,i suppose he meant preaching to the ,indians4 ,during the whole journey he exhibited every symptom of the most abject fear1 which operated upon him so that he became deadly sick1 and we were obliged to stop twice in the road1 and lay him amongst the green corn4 ,he said that if he fell into the hands of the factious1 he was a lost priest1 for that they would first make him say ,mass1 and then blow him up with gunpowder4 ,he had been professor of philosophy1 as he told me1 in one of the convents 7,i think it was ,san ,tomas7 of ,madrid before their suppression1 but appeared to be grossly ignorant of the ,scriptures1 which he confounded with the works of ,virgil4 ,we stopped at ,manzanares as usual2 it was ,sunday morning1 and the market-place was crowded with people4 ,i was recognized in a moment1 and twenty pair of legs instantly hurried away in quest of the prophetess1 who presently made her appearance in the house to which we had retired to breakfast4 ,after many greetings on both sides1 she proceeded1 in her ,latin1 to give me an account of all that had occurred in the village since ,i had last been there1 and of the atrocities of the factious in the neighbourhood4 ,i asked her to breakfast1 and introduced her to the friar1 whom she addressed in this manner3 8,anne ,domine ,reverendissime facis adhuc sacrificium80 #bdh ,but the friar did not understand her1 and1 waxing angry1 anathematized her for a witch1 and bade her begone4 ,she was1 however1 not to be disconcerted1 and commenced singing1 in extemporary ,castilian verse1 the praises of friars and religious houses in general4 ,on departing ,i gave her a peseta1 upon which she burst into tears1 and entreated that ,i would write to her if ,i reached ,seville in safety4 ,we did arrive at ,seville in safety1 and ,i took leave of the friar1 telling him that ,i hoped to meet him again at ,philippi4 ,as it was my intention to remain at ,seville for some months1 ,i determined to hire a house1 in which ,i conceived ,i could live with more privacy1 and at the same time more economically1 than in a posada4 ,it was not long before ,i found one in every respect suited to me4 ,it was situated in the ,plazuela de la ,pila ,seca1 a retired part of the city in the neighbourhood of the cathedral1 and at a short distance from the gate of ,xeres2 and in this house1 on the arrival of ,antonio and the horses1 which occurred within a few days1 ,i took up my abode4 ,i was now once more in beautiful ,seville1 and had soon ample time and leisure to enjoy its delights and those of the surrounding country4 ,unfortunately1 at the time of my arrival1 and indeed for the next ensuing fortnight1 the heaven of ,andalusia1 in general so glorious1 was overcast with black clouds1 which discharged tremendous showers of rain1 such as few of the ,sevillians1 according to their own account1 had ever seen before4 ,this extraordinary weather had wrought no little damage in the neighbourhood1 causing the ,guadalquivir1 which1 during the rainy season1 is a rapid and furious stream1 to overflow its banks1 and to threaten an inundation4 ,it is true that intervals were occurring when the sun made his appearance from his cloudy tabernacle1 and with his golden rays caused everything around to smile1 enticing the butterfly forth from the bush1 and the lizard from the hollow tree1 and ,i invariably availed myself of these intervals to take a hasty promenade4 ,oh how pleasant it is1 especially in springtide1 to stray along the shores of the ,guadalquivir6 ,not far from the city1 down the river1 lies a grove called ,las ,delicias1 or 8,the ,delights40 ,it consists of trees of various kinds1 but more especially of poplars and elms1 and is traversed by long shady walks4 ,this grove is the favourite promenade of the ,sevillians1 and there one occasionally sees assembled whatever the town produces of beauty or gallantry4 ,there wander the black-eyed ,andalusian dames and damsels1 clad in their graceful silken mantillas2 and there gallops the ,andalusian cavalier1 on his long-tailed thick-maned steed of ,moorish ancestry4 ,as the sun is descending1 it is enchanting to glance back from this place in the direction of the city2 the prospect is inexpressibly beautiful4 ,yonder in the distance1 high and enormous1 stands the ,golden ,tower1 now used as a toll-house1 but the principal bulwark of the city in the time of the ,moors4 ,it stands on the shore of the river1 like a giant keeping watch1 and is the first edifice which attracts the eye of the voyager as he moves up the stream to ,seville4 ,on the other side1 opposite the tower1 stands the noble ,augustine convent1 the ornament of the faubourg of ,triana1 whilst between the two edifices rolls the broad ,guadalquivir1 bearing on its bosom a flotilla of barks from ,catalonia and ,valencia4 ,further up is seen the bridge of boats1 which traverses the water4 ,the principal object of this prospect1 however1 is the ,golden ,tower1 where the beams of the setting sun seem to be concentrated as in a focus1 so that it appears built of pure gold1 and probably from that circumstance received the name which it now bears4 ,cold1 cold must the heart be which can remain insensible to the beauties of this magic scene1 to do justice to which the pencil of ,claude himself were barely equal4 ,often have ,i shed tears of rapture whilst ,i beheld it1 and listened to the thrush and the nightingale piping forth their melodious songs in the woods1 and inhaled the breeze laden with the perfume of the thousand orange gardens of ,seville3 8,kennst du das ,land wo die ,citronen blhen80 #bea;a ,the interior of ,seville scarcely corresponds with the exterior2 the streets are narrow1 badly paved1 and full of misery and beggary4 ,the houses are1 for the most part1 built in the ,moorish fashion1 with a quadrangular patio1 or court1 in the centre1 where stands a marble fountain1 constantly distilling limpid water4 ,these courts1 during the time of the summer heats1 are covered over with a canvas awning1 and beneath this the family sit during the greater part of the day4 ,in many1 especially those belonging to the houses of the wealthy1 are to be found shrubs1 orange trees1 and all kinds of flowers1 and perhaps a small aviary1 so that no situation can be conceived more delicious than to lie here in the shade1 hearkening to the song of the birds and the voice of the fountain4 ,nothing is more calculated to interest the stranger as he wanders through ,seville1 than a view of these courts1 obtained from the street through the iron-grated door4 ,oft have ,i stopped to observe them1 and as often sighed that my fate did not permit me to reside in such an ,eden for the remainder of my days4 ,on a former occasion ,i have spoken of the cathedral of ,seville1 but only in a brief and cursory manner4 #bea;b ,it is1 perhaps1 the most magnificent cathedral in all ,spain1 and though not so regular in its architecture as those of ,toledo and ,burgos1 is far more worthy of admiration when considered as a whole4 ,it is utterly impossible to wander through the long aisles1 and to raise one's eyes to the richly inlaid roof1 supported by colossal pillars1 without experiencing sensations of sacred awe and deep astonishment4 ,it is true that the interior1 like those of the generality of the ,spanish cathedrals1 is somewhat dark and gloomy2 yet it loses nothing by this gloom1 which1 on the contrary1 rather increases the solemnity of the effect4 ,notre ,dame of ,paris is a noble building1 yet to him who has seen the ,spanish cathedrals1 and particularly this of ,seville1 it almost appears trivial and mean1 and more like a town-hall than a temple of the ,eternal4 ,the ,parisian cathedral is entirely destitute of that solemn darkness and gloomy pomp which so abound in the ,sevillian1 and is thus destitute of the principal requisite to a cathedral4 ,in most of the chapels are to be found some of the very best pictures of the ,spanish school2 and1 in particular1 many of the master-pieces of ,murillo1 a native of ,seville4 ,of all the pictures of this extraordinary man1 one of the least celebrated is that which has always wrought on me the most profound impression4 ,i allude to the ,guardian ,angel1 ,el ,angel de la ,guardia1 a small picture which stands at the bottom of the church1 and looks up the principal aisle4 ,the angel1 holding a flaming sword in his right hand1 is conducting the child3 this child is1 in my opinion1 the most wonderful of all the creations of ,murillo2 the form is that of an infant about five years of age1 and the expression of the countenance is quite infantine1 but the tread--it is the tread of a conqueror1 of a ,god1 of the ,creator of the universe2 and the earthly globe appears to tremble beneath its majesty4 ,the service of the cathedral is in general well attended1 especially when it is known that a sermon is to be preached4 ,all these sermons are extemporaneous2 some of them are edifying1 and faithful to the ,scriptures4 ,i have often listened to them with pleasure1 though ,i was much surprised to remark1 that when the preachers quoted from the ,bible1 their quotations were almost invariably taken from the apocryphal writings4 ,there is in general no lack of worshippers at the principal shrines--women for the most part--many of whom appear to be animated with the most fervent devotion4 ,i had flattered myself1 previous to my departure from ,madrid1 that ,i should experience but little difficulty in the circulation of the ,gospel in ,andalusia1 at least for a time1 as the field was new1 and myself and the object of my mission less known and dreaded than in ,new ,castile4 ,it appeared1 however1 that the government at ,madrid had fulfilled its threat1 transmitting orders throughout ,spain for the seizure of my books wherever found4 ,the ,testaments that arrived from ,madrid were seized at the custom-house1 to which place all goods on their arrival1 even from the interior1 are carried1 in order that a duty be imposed upon them4 ,through the management of ,antonio1 however1 ,i procured one of the two chests1 whilst the other was sent down to ,san ,lucar1 to be embarked for a foreign land as soon as ,i could make arrangements for that purpose4 ,i did not permit myself to be discouraged by this slight contretemps1 although ,i heartily regretted the loss of the books which had been seized1 and which ,i could no longer hope to circulate in these parts1 where they were so much wanted2 but ,i consoled myself with the reflection1 that ,i had still several hundred at my disposal1 from the distribution of which1 if it pleased the ,lord1 a blessed harvest might still proceed4 ,i did not commence operations for some time1 for ,i was in a strange place1 and scarcely knew what course to pursue4 ,i had no one to assist me but poor ,antonio1 who was as ignorant of the place as myself4 ,providence1 however1 soon sent me a coadjutor in rather a singular manner4 ,i was standing in the courtyard of the ,reyna ,posada1 where ,i occasionally dined1 when a man1 singularly dressed and gigantically tall1 entered4 ,my curiosity was excited1 and ,i inquired of the master of the house who he was4 ,he informed me that he was a foreigner1 who had resided a considerable time in ,seville1 and he believed a ,greek4 ,upon hearing this1 ,i instantly went up to the stranger1 and accosted him in the ,greek language1 in which1 though ,i speak it very ill1 ,i can make myself understood4 ,he replied in the same idiom1 and1 flattered by the interest which ,i1 a foreigner1 expressed for his nation1 was not slow in communicating to me his history4 ,he told me that his name was ,dionysius1 that he was a native of ,cephalonia1 and had been educated for the ,church1 which1 not suiting his temper1 he had abandoned1 in order to follow the profession of the sea1 for which he had an early inclination4 ,that after many adventures and changes of fortune1 he found himself one morning on the coast of ,spain1 a shipwrecked mariner1 and that1 ashamed to return to his own country in poverty and distress1 he had remained in the ,peninsula1 residing chiefly in ,seville1 where he now carried on a small trade in books4 ,he said that he was of the ,greek religion1 to which he professed strong attachment1 and1 soon discovering that ,i was a ,protestant1 spoke with unbounded abhorrence of the papal system2 nay1 of its followers in general1 whom he called ,latins1 and whom he charged with the ruin of his own country1 inasmuch as they sold it to the ,turk4 ,it instantly struck me1 that this individual would be an excellent assistant in the work which had brought me to ,seville1 namely1 the propagation of the eternal ,gospel2 and1 accordingly1 after some more conversation1 in which he exhibited considerable learning1 ,i explained myself to him4 ,he entered into my views with eagerness1 and1 in the sequel1 ,i had no reason to regret my confidence1 he having disposed of a considerable number of ,new ,testaments1 and even contrived to send a certain number of copies to two small towns at some distance from ,seville4 ,another helper in the circulation of the ,gospel ,i found in an aged professor of music1 who1 with much stiffness and ceremoniousness1 united much that was excellent and admirable4 ,this venerable individual1 only three days after ,i had made his acquaintance1 brought me the price of six ,testaments and a ,gypsy ,gospel1 which he had sold under the heat of an ,andalusian sun4 ,what was his motive8 ,a ,christian one truly4 ,he said that his unfortunate countrymen1 who were then robbing and murdering each other1 might probably be rendered better by the reading of the ,gospel1 but could never be injured4 ,adding1 that many a man had been reformed by the ,scriptures1 but that no one ever yet became a thief or assassin from its perusal4 ,but my most extraordinary agent was one whom ,i occasionally employed in circulating the ,scriptures amongst the lower classes4 ,i might have turned the services of this individual to far greater account had the quantity of books at my disposal been greater2 but they were now diminishing rapidly1 and as ,i had no hopes of a fresh supply1 ,i was almost tempted to be niggard of the few which remained4 ,this agent was a ,greek bricklayer1 by name ,johannes ,chrysostom1 who had been introduced to me by ,dionysius4 ,he was a native of the ,morea1 but had been upwards of thirty-five years in ,spain1 so that he had almost entirely lost his native language4 ,nevertheless1 his attachment to his own country was so strong that he considered whatever was not ,greek as utterly barbarous and bad4 ,though entirely destitute of education1 he had1 by his strength of character and by a kind of rude eloquence which he possessed1 obtained such a mastery over the minds of the labouring classes of ,seville1 that they assented to almost everything he said1 notwithstanding the shocks which their prejudices were continually receiving4 ,so that1 although he was a foreigner1 he could at any time have become the ,masaniello #bef of ,seville4 ,a more honest creature ,i never saw1 and ,i soon found that if ,i employed him1 notwithstanding his eccentricities1 ,i might entertain perfect confidence that his actions would be no disparagement to the book he vended4 ,we were continually pressed for ,bibles1 which of course we could not supply4 ,testaments were held in comparatively little esteem4 ,i had by this time made the discovery of a fact which it would have been well had ,i been aware of three years before3 but we live and learn4 ,i mean the inexpediency of printing ,testaments1 and ,testaments alone1 for ,catholic countries4 ,the reason is plain3 the ,catholic1 unused to ,scripture reading1 finds a thousand things which he cannot possibly understand in the ,new ,testament1 the foundation of which is the ,old4 8,search the ,scriptures1 for they bear witness of me10 may well be applied to this point4 ,it may be replied1 that ,new ,testaments separate are in great demand and of infinite utility in ,england2 but ,england1 thanks be to the ,lord1 is not a papal country2 and though an ,english labourer may read a ,testament1 and derive from it the most blessed fruit1 it does not follow that a ,spanish or ,italian peasant will enjoy similar success1 as he will find many dark things with which the other is well acquainted1 and competent to understand1 being versed in the ,bible history from his childhood4 ,i confess1 however1 that in my summer campaign of the preceding year1 ,i could not have accomplished with ,bibles what ,providence permitted me to effect with ,testaments1 the former being far too bulky for rural journeys4 ,,chapter ,,xlix4 ,the ,solitary ,house--,the ,dehesa--,johannes ,chrysostom--,manuel--,bookselling at ,seville--,dionysius and the ,priests--,athens and ,rome--,proselytism--,seizure of ,testaments--,departure from ,seville4 ,i have already stated that ,i had hired an empty house in ,seville1 wherein ,i purposed to reside for some months4 ,it stood in a solitary situation1 occupying one side of a small square4 ,it was built quite in the beautiful taste of ,andalusia1 with a court paved with small slabs of white and blue marble4 ,in the middle of this court was a fountain well supplied with the crystal lymph1 the murmur of which1 as it fell from its slender pillar into an octangular basin1 might be heard in every apartment4 ,the house itself was large and spacious1 consisting of two stories1 and containing room sufficient for at least ten times the number of inmates which now occupied it4 ,i generally kept during the day in the lower apartments1 on account of the refreshing coolness which pervaded them4 ,in one of these was an immense stone water-trough1 ever overflowing with water from the fountain1 in which ,i immersed myself every morning4 ,such were the premises to which1 after having provided myself with a few indispensable articles of furniture1 ,i now retreated with ,antonio and my two horses4 ,i was fortunate in the possession of these quadrupeds1 inasmuch as it afforded me an opportunity of enjoying to a greater extent the beauties of the surrounding country4 ,i know of few things in this life more delicious than a ride in the spring or summer season in the neighbourhood of ,seville4 ,my favourite one was in the direction of ,xeres1 over the wide ,dehesa1 as it is called1 which extends from ,seville to the gates of the former town1 a distance of nearly fifty miles1 with scarcely a town or village intervening4 ,the ground is irregular and broken1 and is for the most part covered with that species of brushwood called carrasco1 amongst which winds a bridle-path1 by no means well defined1 chiefly trodden by the arrieros1 with their long trains of mules and borricos4 ,it is here that the balmy air of beautiful ,andalusia is to be inhaled in full perfection4 ,aromatic herbs and flowers are growing in abundance1 diffusing their perfume around4 ,here dark and gloomy cares are dispelled as if by magic from the bosom1 as the eyes wander over the prospect1 lighted by unequalled sunshine1 in which gaily painted butterflies wanton1 and green and golden salamanquesas lie extended1 enjoying the luxurious warmth1 and occasionally startling the traveller1 by springing up and making off with portentous speed to the nearest coverts1 whence they stare upon him with their sharp and lustrous eyes4 ,i repeat1 that it is impossible to continue melancholy in regions like these1 and the ancient ,greeks and ,romans were right in making them the site of their ,elysian fields4 ,most beautiful they are1 even in their present desolation1 for the hand of man has not cultivated them since the fatal era of the expulsion of the ,moors1 which drained ,andalusia of at least two-thirds of its population4 ,every evening it was my custom to ride along the ,dehesa1 until the topmost towers of ,seville were no longer in sight4 ,i then turned about1 and pressing my knees against the sides of ,sidi ,habismilk1 my ,arabian1 the fleet creature1 to whom spur or lash had never been applied1 would set off in the direction of the town with the speed of a whirlwind1 seeming in his headlong course to devour the ground of the waste1 until he had left it behind1 then dashing through the elm-covered road of the ,delicias1 his thundering hoofs were soon heard beneath the vaulted archway of the ,puerta de ,xeres1 and in another moment he would stand stone-still before the door of my solitary house in the little silent square of the ,pila ,seca4 ,it is eight o'clock at night1 ,i am returned from the ,dehesa1 and am standing on the sotea1 or flat roof of my house1 enjoying the cool breeze4 ,johannes ,chrysostom has just arrived from his labour4 ,i have not spoken to him1 but ,i hear him below in the courtyard1 detailing to ,antonio the progress he has made in the last two days4 ,he speaks barbarous ,greek1 plentifully interlarded with ,spanish words2 but ,i gather from his discourse1 that he has already sold twelve ,testaments among his fellow-labourers4 ,i hear copper coin falling on the pavement1 and ,antonio1 who is not of a very ,christian temper1 reproving him for not having brought the proceeds of the sale in silver4 ,he now asks for fifteen more1 as he says the demand is becoming great1 and that he shall have no difficulty in disposing of them in the course of the morrow1 whilst pursuing his occupations4 ,antonio goes to fetch them1 and he now stands alone by the marble fountain1 singing a wild song1 which ,i believe to be a hymn of his beloved ,greek ,church4 ,behold one of the helpers which the ,lord has sent me in my ,gospel labours on the shores of the ,guadalquivir4 ,i lived in the greatest retirement during the whole time that ,i passed at ,seville1 spending the greater part of each day in study1 or in that half dreamy state of inactivity which is the natural effect of the influence of a warm climate4 ,there was little in the character of the people around to induce me to enter much into society4 ,the higher class of the ,andalusians are probably upon the whole the most vain and foolish of human beings1 with a taste for nothing but sensual amusements1 foppery in dress1 and ribald discourse4 ,their insolence is only equalled by their meanness1 and their prodigality by their avarice4 ,the lower classes are a shade or two better than their superiors in station3 little1 it is true1 can be said for the tone of their morality2 they are overreaching1 quarrelsome1 and revengeful1 but they are upon the whole more courteous1 and certainly not more ignorant4 ,the ,andalusians are in general held in the lowest estimation by the rest of the ,spaniards1 even those in opulent circumstances finding some difficulty at ,madrid in procuring admission into respectable society1 where1 if they find their way1 they are invariably the objects of ridicule1 from the absurd airs and grimaces in which they indulge1--their tendency to boasting and exaggeration1 their curious accent1 and the incorrect manner in which they speak and pronounce the ,castilian language4 #bfa ,in a word1 the ,andalusians1 in all estimable traits of character1 are as far below the other ,spaniards as the country which they inhabit is superior in beauty and fertility to the other provinces of ,spain4 ,yet let it not for a moment be supposed that ,i have any intention of asserting1 that excellent and estimable individuals are not to be found amongst the ,andalusians2 it was amongst them that ,i myself discovered one1 whom ,i have no hesitation in asserting to be the most extraordinary character that has ever come within the sphere of my knowledge2 but this was no scion of a noble or knightly house1 8no wearer of soft clothing10 no sleek highly perfumed personage1 none of the romanticos who walk in languishing attitudes about the streets of ,seville1 with long black hair hanging upon their shoulders in luxuriant curls3 but one of those whom the proud and unfeeling style the dregs of the populace1 a haggard1 houseless1 penniless man1 in rags and tatters4 ,i allude to ,manuel1 the--what shall ,i call him8--seller of lottery tickets1 driver of death carts1 or poet laureate in gypsy songs8 ,i wonder whether thou art still living1 my friend ,manuel2 thou gentleman of nature's forming--honest1 pure-minded1 humble1 yet dignified being6 ,art thou still wandering through the courts of beautiful ,safacoro1 or on the banks of the ,len ,baro1 #bfb thine eyes fixed in vacancy1 and thy mind striving to recall some half-forgotten couplet of ,luis ,lobo2 or art thou gone to thy long rest1 out beyond the ,xeres gate within the wall of the ,campo ,santo1 to which1 in times of pest and sickness1 thou wast wont to carry so many1 gypsy and ,gentile1 in thy cart of the tinkling bell8 ,oft in the runions of the lettered and learned in this land of universal literature1 when weary of the display of pedantry and egotism1 have ,i recurred with yearning to our gypsy recitations at the old house in the ,pila ,seca4 ,oft1 when sickened by the high-wrought professions of those who bear the cross in gilded chariots1 have ,i thought on thee1 thy calm faith1 without pretence1--thy patience in poverty1 and fortitude in affliction2 and as oft1 when thinking of my speedily approaching end1 have ,i wished that ,i might meet thee once again1 and that thy hands might help to bear me to 8the dead man's acre0 yonder on the sunny plain1 ,o ,manuel6 #bfc ,my principal visitor was ,dionysius1 who seldom failed to make his appearance every forenoon3 the poor fellow came for sympathy and conversation4 ,it is difficult to imagine a situation more forlorn and isolated than that of this man1--a ,greek at ,seville1 with scarcely a single acquaintance1 and depending for subsistence on the miserable pittance to be derived from selling a few books1 for the most part hawked about from door to door4 8,what could have first induced you to commence bookselling in ,seville80 said ,i to him1 as he arrived one sultry day1 heated and fatigued1 with a small bundle of books secured together by a leather strap4 ,dionysius4--,for want of a better employment1 ,kyrie1 #bfd;a ,i have adopted this most unprofitable and despised one4 ,oft have ,i regretted not having been bred up as a shoemaker1 or having learnt in my youth some other useful handicraft1 for gladly would ,i follow it now4 ,such1 at least1 would procure me the respect of my fellow-creatures1 inasmuch as they needed me2 but now all avoid me and look upon me with contempt2 for what have ,i to offer in this place that any one cares about8 ,books in ,seville6 where no one reads1 or at least nothing but new romances1 translated from the ,french1 and obscenity4 ,books6 ,would ,i were a gypsy and could trim donkeys1 for then ,i were at least independent and were more respected than ,i am at present4 ,myself4--,of what kind of books does your stock-in-trade consist8 ,dionysius4--,of those not likely to suit the ,seville market1 ,kyrie2 books of sterling and intrinsic value2 many of them in ancient ,greek1 which ,i picked up upon the dissolution of the convents1 when the contents of the libraries were hurled into the courtyards1 and there sold by the arroba4 ,i thought at first that ,i was about to make a fortune1 and in fact my books would be so in any other place2 but here ,i have offered an ,elzevir #bfd;b for half a dollar in vain4 ,i should starve were it not for the strangers who occasionally purchase of me4 ,myself4--,seville is a large cathedral city1 abounding with priests and canons2 surely some of these occasionally visit you to make purchases of classic works and books connected with ecclesiastical literature4 ,dionysius4--,if you think so1 ,kyrie1 you know little respecting the ecclesiastics of ,seville4 ,i am acquainted with many of them1 and can assure you that a tribe of beings can scarcely be found with a more confirmed aversion to intellectual pursuits of every kind4 ,their reading is confined to newspapers1 which they take up in the hope of seeing that their friend ,don ,carlos is at length reinstated at ,madrid2 but they prefer their chocolate and biscuits1 and nap before dinner1 to the wisdom of ,plato and the eloquence of ,tully4 ,they occasionally visit me1 but it is only to pass away a heavy hour in chattering nonsense4 ,once on a time three of them came1 in the hope of making me a convert to their ,latin superstition4 8,signor ,donatio10 said they 7for so they called me71 8how is it that an unprejudiced person like yourself1 a man really with some pretension to knowledge1 can still cling to this absurd religion of yours8 ,surely1 after having resided so many years in a civilized country like this of ,spain1 it is high time to abandon your half-pagan form of worship1 and to enter the bosom of the ,church2 now pray be advised1 and you shall be none the worse for it40 8,thank you1 gentlemen10 ,i replied1 8for the interest you take in my welfare2 ,i am always open to conviction2 let us proceed to discuss the subject4 ,what are the points of my religion which do not meet your approbation8 ,you are of course well acquainted with all our dogmas and ceremonies40 8,we know nothing about your religion1 ,signor ,donatio1 save that it is a very absurd one1 and therefore it is incumbent upon you1 as an unprejudiced and well-informed man1 to renounce it40 8,but1 gentlemen1 if you know nothing of my religion1 why call it absurd8 ,surely it is not the part of unprejudiced people to disparage that of which they are ignorant40 8,but1 ,signor ,donatio1 it is not the ,catholic ,apostolic ,roman religion1 is it80 8,it may be1 gentlemen1 for what you appear to know of it2 for your information1 however1 ,i will tell you that it is not2 it is the ,greek ,apostolic religion4 ,i do not call it catholic1 for it is absurd to call that catholic which is not universally acknowledged40 8,but1 ,signor ,donatio1 does not the matter speak for itself8 ,what can a set of ignorant ,greek barbarians know about religion8 ,if they set aside the authority of ,rome1 whence should they derive any rational ideas of religion8 whence should they get the ,gospel80 8,the ,gospel1 gentlemen8 ,allow me to show you a book4 ,here it is2 what is your opinion of it80 8,signor ,donati1 what does this mean8 ,what characters of the devil are these1 are they ,moorish8 ,who is able to understand them80 8,i suppose your worships1 being ,roman priests1 know something of ,latin2 if you inspect the title-page to the bottom1 you will find1 in the language of your own ,church1 #8the ,gospel of our ,lord and ,saviour ,jesus ,christ1 in the original ,greek1' of which your ,vulgate is merely a translation1 and not a very correct one4 ,with respect to the barbarism of ,greece1 it appears that you are not aware that ,athens was a city1 and a famed one1 centuries before the first mud cabin of ,rome was thatched1 and the gypsy vagabonds who first peopled it had escaped from the hands of justice40 8,signor ,donatio1 you are an ignorant heretic1 and insolent withal3 what nonsense is this6 4 4 40 ,but ,i will not weary your ears1 ,kyrie1 with all the absurdities which the poor ,latin ,papas #bff poured into mine2 the burden of their song being invariably1 what nonsense is this6 which was certainly applicable enough to what they themselves were saying4 ,seeing1 however1 that ,i was more than their match in religious controversy1 they fell foul of my country4 8,spain is a better country than ,greece10 said one4 8,you never tasted bread before you came to ,spain10 cried another4 8,and little enough since10 thought ,i4 8,you never before saw such a city as ,seville10 said the third4 ,but then ensued the best part of the comedy3 my visitors chanced to be natives of three different places2 one was of ,seville1 another of ,utrera1 and the third of ,miguel ,turra1 a miserable village in ,la ,mancha4 ,at the mention of ,seville1 the other two instantly began to sing the praises of their respective places of birth2 this brought on comparisons1 and a violent dispute was the consequence4 ,much abuse passed between them1 whilst ,i stood by1 shrugged my shoulders1 and said tipotas4 #bfg ,at last1 as they were leaving the house1 ,i said1 8,who would have thought1 gentlemen1 that the polemics of the ,greek and ,latin ,churches were so closely connected with the comparative merits of ,seville1 ,utrera1 and ,miguel ,turra80 ,myself4--,is the spirit of proselytism very prevalent here8 ,of what description of people do their converts generally consist8 ,dionysius4--,i will tell you1 ,kyrie2 the generality of their converts consist of ,german or ,english ,protestant adventurers1 who come here to settle1 and in course of time take to themselves wives from amongst the ,spanish1 prior to which it is necessary to become members of the ,latin ,church4 ,a few are vagabond ,jews1 from ,gibraltar or ,tangier1 who have fled for their crimes into ,spain1 and who renounce their faith to escape from starvation4 ,these gentry1 however1 it is necessary to pay1 on which account the priests procure for them padrinos1 or godfathers2 these generally consist of rich devotees over whom the priests have influence1 and who esteem it a glory and a meritorious act to assist in bringing back lost souls to the ,church4 ,the neophyte allows himself to be convinced on the promise of a peseta a day1 which is generally paid by the godfathers for the first year1 but seldom for a longer period4 ,about forty years ago1 however1 they made a somewhat notable convert4 ,a civil war arose in ,morocco1 caused by the separate pretensions of two brothers to the throne4 ,one of these being worsted1 fled over to ,spain1 imploring the protection of ,charles ,,iv4 ,he soon became an object of particular attention to the priests1 who were not slow in converting him1 and induced ,charles to settle upon him a pension of a dollar per day4 ,he died some few years since in ,seville1 a despised vagabond4 ,he left behind him a son1 who is at present a notary1 and outwardly very devout1 but a greater hypocrite and picaron does not exist4 ,i would you could see his face1 ,kyrie1 it is that of ,judas ,iscariot4 ,i think you would say so1 for you are a physiognomist4 ,he lives next door to me1 and notwithstanding his pretensions to religion1 is permitted to remain in a state of great poverty4 ,and now nothing further for the present about ,dionysius4 ,about the middle of ,july our work was concluded at ,seville1 and for the very efficient reason that ,i had no more ,testaments to sell2 somewhat more than two hundred having been circulated since my arrival4 ,about ten days before the time of which ,i am speaking1 ,i was visited by various alguazils1 accompanied by a kind of headborough1 who made a small seizure of ,testaments and gypsy ,gospels1 which happened to be lying about4 ,this visit was far from being disagreeable to me1 as ,i considered it to be a very satisfactory proof of the effect of our exertions in ,seville4 ,i cannot help here relating an anecdote3--,a day or two subsequent1 having occasion to call at the house of the headborough respecting my passport1 ,i found him lying on his bed1 for it was the hour of siesta1 reading intently one of the ,testaments which he had taken away1 all of which1 if he had obeyed his orders1 would have been deposited in the office of the civil governor4 ,so intently1 indeed1 was he engaged in reading1 that he did not at first observe my entrance2 when he did1 however1 he sprang up in great confusion1 and locked the book up in his cabinet1 whereupon ,i smiled1 and told him to be under no alarm1 as ,i was glad to see him so usefully employed4 ,recovering himself1 he said that he had read the book nearly through1 and that he had found no harm in it1 but1 on the contrary1 everything to praise4 ,adding1 he believed that the clergy must be possessed with devils 7endemoniados7 to persecute it in the manner they did4 ,it was ,sunday when the seizure was made1 and ,i happened to be reading the ,liturgy4 ,one of the alguazils1 when going away1 made an observation respecting the very different manner in which the ,protestants and ,catholics keep the ,sabbath2 the former being in their own houses reading good books1 and the latter abroad in the bull-ring1 seeing the wild bulls tear out the gory bowels of the poor horses4 ,the bull amphitheatre at ,seville is the finest in all ,spain1 and is invariably on a ,sunday 7the only day on which it is open7 filled with applauding multitudes4 ,i now made preparations for leaving ,seville for a few months1 my destination being the coast of ,barbary4 ,antonio1 who did not wish to leave ,spain1 in which were his wife and children1 returned to ,madrid1 rejoicing in a handsome gratuity with which ,i presented him4 ,as it was my intention to return to ,seville1 ,i left my house and horses in the charge of a friend in whom ,i could confide1 and departed4 ,the reasons which induced me to visit ,barbary will be seen in the following chapters4 ,,chapter ,l4 ,night on the ,guadalquivir--,gospel ,light--,bonanza--,strand of ,san ,lucar--,andalusian ,scenery--,history of a ,chest--,cosas de los ,ingleses--,the ,two ,gypsies--,the ,driver--,the ,red ,nightcap--,the ,steam-,boat--,christian ,language4 ,on the night of the #cast of ,july ,i departed from ,seville upon my expedition1 going on board one of the steamers which ply on the ,guadalquivir between ,seville and ,cadiz4 ,it was my intention to stop at ,san ,lucar1 for the purpose of recovering the chest of ,testaments which had been placed in embargo there1 until such time as they could be removed from the kingdom of ,spain4 ,these ,testaments ,i intended for distribution amongst the ,christians whom ,i hoped to meet on the shores of ,barbary4 ,san ,lucar is about fifteen leagues distant from ,seville1 at the entrance of the bay of ,cadiz1 where the yellow waters of the ,guadalquivir unite with the brine4 ,the steamer shot from the little quay1 or wharf1 at about half-past nine1 and then arose a loud cry--it was the voices of those on board and on shore wishing farewell to their friends4 ,amongst the tumult ,i thought ,i could distinguish the accents of some friends of my own who had accompanied me to the bank1 and ,i instantly raised my own voice louder than all4 ,the night was very dark1 so much so1 indeed1 that as we passed along we could scarcely distinguish the trees which cover the eastern shore of the river until it takes its first turn4 ,a calmazo had reigned during the day at ,seville1 by which is meant exceedingly sultry weather1 unenlivened by the slightest breeze4 ,the night likewise was calm and sultry4 ,as ,i had frequently made the voyage of the ,guadalquivir1 ascending and descending this celebrated river1 ,i felt nothing of that restlessness and curiosity which people experience in a strange place1 whether in light or darkness1 and being acquainted with none of the other passengers1 who were talking on the deck1 ,i thought my best plan would be to retire to the cabin and enjoy some rest1 if possible4 ,the cabin was solitary and tolerably cool1 all its windows on either side being open for the admission of air4 ,flinging myself on one of the cushioned benches1 ,i was soon asleep1 in which state ,i continued for about two hours1 when ,i was aroused by the furious biting of a thousand bugs1 which compelled me to seek the deck1 where1 wrapping myself in my cloak1 ,i again fell asleep4 ,it was near daybreak when ,i awoke2 we were then about two leagues from ,san ,lucar4 ,i arose and looked towards the east1 watching the gradual progress of dawn1 first the dull light1 then the streak1 then the tinge1 then the bright blush1 till at last the golden disk of that orb which giveth day emerged from the abyss of immensity1 and in a moment the whole prospect was covered with brightness and glory4 ,the land smiled1 the waters sparkled1 the birds sang1 and men arose from their resting-places and rejoiced3 for it was day1 and the sun was gone forth on the errand of its ,creator1 the diffusion of light and gladness1 and the dispelling of darkness and sorrow4 8,behold the morning sun ,begins his glorious way2 ,his beams through all the nations run1 ,and life and light convey4 8,but where the ,gospel comes1 ,it spreads diviner light2 ,it calls dead sinners from their tombs1 ,and gives the blind their sight40 ,we now stopped before ,bonanza3 this is1 properly speaking1 the port of ,san ,lucar1 although it is half a league distant from the latter place4 ,it is called ,bonanza on account of its good anchorage1 and its being secured from the boisterous winds of the ocean2 its literal meaning is 8fair weather40 #bgc ,it consists of several large white buildings1 principally government store-houses1 and is inhabited by the coastguard1 dependents on the custom-house1 and a few fishermen4 ,a boat came off to receive those passengers whose destination was ,san ,lucar1 and to bring on board about half a dozen who were bound for ,cadiz3 ,i entered with the rest4 ,a young ,spaniard of very diminutive stature addressed some questions to me in ,french as to what ,i thought of the scenery and climate of ,andalusia4 ,i replied that ,i admired both1 which evidently gave him great pleasure4 ,the boatman now came demanding two reals for conveying me on shore4 ,i had no small money1 and offered him a dollar to change4 ,he said that it was impossible4 ,i asked him what was to be done3 whereupon he replied1 uncivilly1 that he knew not1 but could not lose time1 and expected to be paid instantly4 ,the young ,spaniard1 observing my embarrassment1 took out two reals and paid the fellow4 ,i thanked him heartily for this act of civility1 for which ,i felt really grateful2 as there are few situations more unpleasant than to be in a crowd in want of change1 whilst you are importuned by people for payment4 ,a loose character once told me that it was far preferable to be without money at all1 as you then knew what course to take4 ,i subsequently met the young ,spaniard at ,cadiz1 and repaid him1 with thanks4 ,a few cabriolets were waiting near the wharf1 in order to convey us to ,san ,lucar4 ,i ascended one1 and we proceeded slowly along the playa or strand4 ,this place is famous in the ancient novels of ,spain1 of that class called ,picaresque1 or those devoted to the adventures of notorious scoundrels1 the father of which1 as also of others of the same kind1 in whatever language1 is ,lazarillo de ,tormes4 ,cervantes himself has immortalized this strand in the most amusing of his smaller tales1 ,la ,ilustre ,fregona4 #bgd ,in a word1 the strand of ,san ,lucar in ancient times1 if not in modern1 was a rendezvous for ruffians1 contrabandistas1 and vagabonds of every description1 who nested there in wooden sheds1 which have now vanished4 ,san ,lucar itself was always noted for the thievish propensities of its inhabitants--the worst in all ,andalusia4 ,the roguish innkeeper in ,don ,quixote perfected his education at ,san ,lucar4 ,all these recollections crowded into my mind as we proceeded along the strand1 which was beautifully gilded by the ,andalusian sun4 ,we at last arrived nearly opposite to ,san ,lucar1 which stands at some distance from the waterside4 ,here a lively spectacle presented itself to us3 the shore was covered with a multitude of females either dressing or undressing themselves1 while 7,i speak within bounds7 hundreds were in the water1 sporting and playing3 some were close by the beach1 stretched at their full length on the sand and pebbles1 allowing the little billows to dash over their heads and bosoms2 whilst others were swimming boldly out into the firth4 ,there was a confused hubbub of female cries1 thin shrieks1 and shrill laughter2 couplets likewise were being sung1 on what subject it is easy to guess--for we were in sunny ,andalusia1 and what can its black-eyed daughters think1 speak1 or sing of but amor1 amor1 which now sounded from the land and the waters8 ,further on along the beach we perceived likewise a crowd of men bathing2 we passed not by them1 but turned to the left up an alley or avenue which leads to ,san ,lucar1 and which may be a quarter of a mile long4 ,the view from hence was truly magnificent3 before us lay the town1 occupying the side and top of a tolerably high hill1 extending from east to west4 ,it appeared to be of considerable size2 and ,i was subsequently informed that it contained at least twenty thousand inhabitants4 ,several immense edifices and walls towered up in a style of grandeur which can be but feebly described by words2 but the principal object was an ancient castle towards the left4 ,the houses were all white1 and would have shone brilliantly in the sun had it been higher2 but at this early hour they lay comparatively in shade4 ,the tout ensemble was very ,moorish and ,oriental2 and1 indeed1 in ancient times ,san ,lucar was a celebrated stronghold of the ,moors1 and1 next to ,almeria1 the most frequented of the commercial places in ,spain4 ,everything1 indeed1 in these parts of ,andalusia is perfectly ,oriental4 ,behold the heavens1 as cloudless and as brightly azure as those of ,ind2 the fiery sun which tans the fairest cheek in a moment1 and which fills the air with flickering flame2 and oh6 remark the scenery and the vegetable productions4 ,the alley up which we were moving was planted on each side with that remarkable tree or plant1 for ,i know not which to call it1 the giant aloe1 which is called in ,spanish1 pita1 and in ,moorish1 gursan4 ,it rises here to a height almost as magnificent as on the ,african shore4 ,need ,i say that the stem1 which springs up from the middle of the bush of green blades1 which shoot out from the root on all sides1 is as high as a palm-tree2 and need ,i say that those blades1 which are of an immense thickness at the root1 are at the tip sharper than the point of a spear1 and would inflict a terrible wound on any animal which might inadvertently rush against them8 ,one of the first houses at ,san ,lucar was the posada at which we stopped4 ,it confronted1 with some others1 the avenue up which we had come4 ,as it was still early1 ,i betook myself to rest for a few hours1 at the end of which time ,i went out to visit ,mr4 ,phillipi1 the ,british vice-consul1 who was already acquainted with me by name1 as ,i had been recommended to him in a letter from a relation of his at ,seville4 ,mr4 ,phillipi was at home in his counting-house1 and received me with much kindness and civility4 ,i told him the motive of my visit to ,san ,lucar1 and requested his assistance towards obtaining the books from the custom-house1 in order to transport them out of the country1 as ,i was very well acquainted with the difficulties which every one has to encounter in ,spain who has any business to transact with the government authorities4 ,he assured me that he should be most happy to assist me2 and1 accordingly1 despatched with me to the custom-house his head clerk1 a person well known and much respected at ,san ,lucar4 ,it may be as well here at once to give the history of these books1 which might otherwise tend to embarrass the narrative4 ,they consisted of a chest of ,testaments in ,spanish1 and a small box of ,saint ,luke's ,gospel in the ,gitano language of the ,spanish gypsies4 ,i obtained them from the custom-house at ,san ,lucar1 with a pass for that of ,cadiz4 ,at ,cadiz ,i was occupied two days1 and also a person whom ,i employed1 in going through all the formalities1 and in procuring the necessary papers4 ,the expense was great1 as money was demanded at every step ,i had to take1 though ,i was simply complying1 in this instance1 with the orders of the ,spanish government in removing prohibited books from ,spain4 ,the farce did not end until my arrival at ,gibraltar1 where ,i paid the ,spanish consul a dollar for certifying on the back of the pass1 which ,i had to return to ,cadiz1 that the books were arrived at the former place4 ,it is true that he never saw the books1 nor inquired about them2 but he received the money1 for which he alone seemed to be anxious4 ,whilst at the custom-house of ,san ,lucar ,i was asked one or two questions respecting the books contained in the chests3 this afforded me some opportunity of speaking of the ,new ,testament and the ,bible ,society4 ,what ,i said excited attention2 and presently all the officers and dependents of the house1 great and small1 were gathered around me1 from the governor to the porter4 ,as it was necessary to open the boxes to inspect their contents1 we all proceeded to the courtyard1 where1 holding a ,testament in my hand1 ,i recommenced my discourse4 ,i scarcely know what ,i said2 for ,i was much agitated1 and hurried away by my feelings1 when ,i bethought me of the manner in which the ,word of ,god was persecuted in this unhappy kingdom4 ,my words evidently made impression1 and to my astonishment every person present pressed me for a copy4 ,i sold several within the walls of the custom-house4 ,the object1 however1 of most attention was the gypsy ,gospel1 which was minutely examined amidst smiles and exclamations of surprise2 an individual every now and then crying1 8,cosas de los ,ingleses40 ,a bystander asked me whether ,i could speak the ,gitano language4 ,i replied that ,i could not only speak it1 but write it1 and instantly made a speech of about five minutes in the gypsy tongue1 which ,i had no sooner concluded than all clapped their hands and simultaneously shouted1 8,cosas de ,inglaterra10 8,cosas de los ,ingleses40 ,i disposed of several copies of the gypsy ,gospel likewise1 and having now settled the business which had brought me to the custom-house1 ,i saluted my new friends and departed with my books4 ,i now revisited ,mr4 ,phillipi1 who1 upon learning that it was my intention to proceed to ,cadiz next morning by the steamer1 which would touch at ,bonanza at four o'clock1 despatched the chests and my little luggage to the latter place1 where he likewise advised me to sleep1 in order that ,i might be in readiness to embark at that early hour4 ,he then introduced me to his family1 his wife an ,english woman1 and his daughter an amiable and beautiful girl of about eighteen years of age1 whom ,i had previously seen at ,seville2 three or four other ladies from ,seville were likewise there on a visit1 and for the purpose of sea-bathing4 ,after a few words in ,english between the lady of the house and myself1 we all commenced chatting in ,spanish1 which seemed to be the only language understood or cared for by the rest of the company2 indeed1 who would be so unreasonable as to expect ,spanish females to speak any language but their own1 which1 flexible and harmonious as it is 7far more so1 ,i think1 than any other71 seems at times quite inadequate to express the wild sallies of their luxuriant imagination4 ,two hours fled rapidly away in discourse1 interrupted occasionally by music and song1 when ,i bade farewell to this delightful society1 and strolled out to view the town4 ,it was now past noon1 and the heat was exceedingly fierce3 ,i saw scarcely a living being in the streets1 the stones of which burnt my feet through the soles of my boots4 ,i passed through the square of the ,constitution1 which presents nothing particular to the eye of the stranger1 and ascended the hill to obtain a nearer view of the castle4 ,it is a strong heavy edifice of stone1 with round towers1 and1 though deserted1 appears to be still in a tolerable state of preservation4 ,i became tired of gazing1 and was retracing my steps1 when ,i was accosted by two gypsies1 who by some means had heard of my arrival4 ,we exchanged some words in ,gitano1 but they appeared to be very ignorant of the dialect1 and utterly unable to maintain a conversation in it4 ,they were clamorous for a gabicote1 or book in the gypsy tongue4 ,i refused it them1 saying that they could turn it to no profitable account2 but finding that they could read1 ,i promised them each a ,testament in ,spanish4 ,this offer1 however1 they refused with disdain1 saying that they cared for nothing written in the language of the ,busn or ,gentiles4 ,they then persisted in their demand1 to which ,i at last yielded1 being unable to resist their importunity2 whereupon they accompanied me to the inn1 and received what they so ardently desired4 ,in the evening ,i was visited by ,mr4 ,phillipi1 who informed me that he had ordered a cabriolet to call for me at the inn at eleven at night1 for the purpose of conveying me to ,bonanza1 and that a person there1 who kept a small wine-house1 and to whom the chests and other things had been forwarded1 would receive me for the night1 though it was probable that ,i should have to sleep on the floor4 ,we then walked to the beach1 where there were a great number of bathers1 all men4 ,amongst them were some good swimmers2 two1 in particular1 were out at a great distance in the firth of the ,guadalquivir1 ,i should say at least a mile2 their heads could just be descried with the telescope4 ,i was told that they were friars4 ,i wondered at what period of their lives they had acquired their dexterity at natation4 ,i hoped it was not at a time when1 according to their vows1 they should have lived for prayer1 fasting1 and mortification alone4 ,swimming is a noble exercise1 but it certainly does not tend to mortify either the flesh or the spirit4 ,as it was becoming dusk1 we returned to the town1 when my friend bade me a kind farewell4 ,i then retired to my apartment1 and passed some hours in meditation4 ,it was night1 ten o'clock2--eleven o'clock1 and the cabriolet was at the door4 ,i got in1 and we proceeded down the avenue and along the shore1 which was quite deserted4 ,the waves sounded mournfully2 everything seemed to have changed since the morning4 ,i even thought that the horse's feet sounded differently as it trotted slowly over the moist firm sand4 ,the driver1 however1 was by no means mournful1 nor inclined to be silent long3 he soon commenced asking me an infinity of questions as to whence ,i came and whither ,i was bound4 ,having given him what answers ,i thought most proper1 ,i1 in return1 asked him whether he was not afraid to drive along that beach1 which had always borne so bad a character1 at so unseasonable an hour4 ,whereupon he looked around him1 and seeing no person1 he raised a shout of derision1 and said that a fellow with his whiskers feared not all the thieves that ever walked the playa1 and that no dozen men in ,san ,lucar dare to waylay any traveller whom they knew to be beneath his protection4 ,he was a good specimen of the ,andalusian braggart4 ,we soon saw a light or two shining dimly before us2 they proceeded from a few barks and small vessels stranded on the sand close below ,bonanza3 amongst them ,i distinguished two or three dusky figures4 ,we were now at our journey's end1 and stopped before the door of the place where ,i was to lodge for the night4 ,the driver1 dismounting1 knocked loud and long1 until the door was opened by an exceedingly stout man of about sixty years of age2 he held a dim light in his hand1 and was dressed in a red nightcap and dirty striped shirt4 ,he admitted us1 without a word1 into a very large long room with a clay floor4 ,a species of counter stood on one side near the door2 behind it stood a barrel or two1 and against the wall1 on shelves1 many bottles of various sizes4 ,the smell of liquors and wine was very powerful4 ,i settled with the driver and gave him a gratuity1 whereupon he asked me for something to drink to my safe journey4 ,i told him he could call for whatever he pleased3 whereupon he demanded a glass of aguardiente1 which the master of the house1 who had stationed himself behind the counter1 handed him without saying a word4 ,the fellow drank it off at once1 but made a great many wry faces after having swallowed it1 and1 coughing1 said that he made no doubt it was good liquor1 as it burnt his throat terribly4 ,he then embraced me1 went out1 mounted his cabriolet1 and drove off4 ,the old man with the red nightcap now moved slowly to the door1 which he bolted and otherwise secured2 he then drew forward two benches1 which he placed together1 and pointed to them as if to intimate to me that there was my bed3 he then blew out the candle and retired deeper into the apartment1 where ,i heard him lay himself down sighing and snorting4 ,there was now no further light than what proceeded from a small earthen pan on the floor1 filled with water and oil1 on which floated a small piece of card with a lighted wick in the middle1 which simple species of lamp is called mariposa4 #bhb ,i now laid my carpet-bag on the bench as a pillow1 and flung myself down4 ,i should have been asleep instantly1 but he of the red nightcap now commenced snoring awfully1 which brought to my mind that ,i had not yet commended myself to my ,friend and ,redeemer3 ,i therefore prayed1 and then sank to repose4 ,i was awakened more than once during the night by cats1 and ,i believe rats1 leaping upon my body4 ,at the last of these interruptions ,i arose1 and1 approaching the mariposa1 looked at my watch2 it was half-past three o'clock4 ,i opened the door and looked out2 whereupon some fishermen entered1 clamouring for their morning draught3 the old man was soon on his feet serving them4 ,one of the men said to me1 that if ,i was going by the steamer1 ,i had better order my things to the wharf without delay1 as he had heard the vessel coming down the river4 ,i despatched my luggage1 and then demanded of the red nightcap what ,i owed him4 ,he replied1 8,un real40 ,these were the only two words which ,i heard proceed from his mouth3 he was certainly addicted to silence1 and perhaps to philosophy1 neither of which are much practised in ,andalusia4 ,i now hurried to the wharf4 ,the steamer was not yet arrived1 but ,i heard its thunder up the river every moment becoming more distinct3 there were mist and darkness upon the face of the waters1 and ,i felt awe as ,i listened to the approach of the invisible monster booming through the stillness of the night4 ,it came at last in sight1 plashed its way forward1 stopped1 and ,i was soon on board4 ,it was the ,peninsula1 the best boat on the ,guadalquivir4 ,what a wonderful production of art is a steamboat6 and yet why should we call it wonderful1 if we consider its history8 ,more than five hundred years have elapsed since the idea of making one first originated2 but it was not until the close of the last century that the first1 worthy of the name1 made its appearance on a ,scottish river4 ,during this long period of time1 acute minds and skilful hands were occasionally busied in attempting to remove those imperfections in the machinery which alone prevented a vessel being made capable of propelling itself against wind and tide4 ,all these attempts were successively abandoned in despair1 yet scarcely one was made which was perfectly fruitless2 each inventor leaving behind him some monument of his labour1 of which those who succeeded him took advantage1 until at last a fortunate thought or two1 and a few more perfect arrangements1 were all that were wanting4 ,the time arrived1 and now1 at length1 the very ,atlantic is crossed by haughty steamers4 ,much has been said of the utility of steam in spreading abroad civilization1 and ,i think justly4 ,when the first steam-vessels were seen on the ,guadalquivir1 about ten years ago1 the ,sevillians ran to the banks of the river1 crying 8sorcery1 sorcery10 which idea was not a little favoured by the speculation being an ,english one1 and the boats1 which were ,english built1 being provided with ,english engineers1 as1 indeed1 they still are2 no ,spaniard having been found capable of understanding the machinery4 ,they soon1 however1 became accustomed to them1 and the boats are in general crowded with passengers4 ,fanatic and vain as the ,sevillians still are1 and bigoted as they remain to their own customs1 they know that good1 in one instance at least1 can proceed from a foreign land1 and that land a land of heretics2 inveterate prejudice has been shaken1 and we will hope that this is the dawn of their civilization4 ,whilst passing over the bay of ,cadiz1 ,i was reclining on one of the benches on the deck1 when the captain walked by in company with another man2 they stopped a short distance from me1 and ,i heard the captain ask the other1 in a low voice1 how many languages he spoke2 he replied1 8,only one40 8,that one10 said the captain1 8is of course the ,christian20 by which name the ,spaniards style their own language1 in contradistinction to all others4 8,that fellow10 continued the captain1 8who is lying on the deck1 can speak ,christian too1 when it serves his purpose1 but he speaks others1 which are by no means ,christian3 he can talk ,english1 and ,i myself have heard him chatter in ,gitano with the gypsies of ,triana2 he is now going amongst the ,moors1 and when he arrives in their country you will hear him1 should you be there1 converse as fluently in their gibberish as in ,cristiano1 nay1 better1 for he is no ,christian himself4 ,he has been several times on board my vessel already1 but ,i do not like him1 as ,i consider that he carries something about with him which is not good40 ,this worthy person1 on my coming aboard the boat1 had shaken me by the hand and expressed his joy at seeing me again4 ,,chapter ,,li4 ,cadiz--,the ,fortifications--,the ,consul-,general--,characteristic ,anecdote--,catalan ,steamer--,trafalgar--,alonzo ,guzman--,gibil ,muza--,orestes ,frigate--,the ,hostile ,lion--,works of the ,creator--,lizard of the ,rock--,the ,concourse--,queen of the ,waters--,broken ,prayer4 ,cadiz stands1 as is well known1 upon a long narrow neck of land stretching out into the ocean1 from whose bosom the town appears to rise1 the salt waters laving its walls on all sides save the east1 where a sandy isthmus connects it with the coast of ,spain4 ,the town1 as it exists at the present day1 is of modern construction1 and very unlike any other town which is to be found in the ,peninsula1 being built with great regularity and symmetry4 ,the streets are numerous1 and intersect each other1 for the most part at right angles4 ,they are very narrow in comparison to the height of the houses1 so that they are almost impervious to the rays of the sun1 except when at its midday altitude4 ,the principal street1 however1 is an exception1 it being of some width4 ,this street1 in which stands the ,bolsa1 or exchange1 and which contains the houses of the chief merchants and nobility1 is the grand resort of loungers as well as men of business during the early part of the day1 and in that respect resembles the ,puerta del ,sol at ,madrid4 ,it is connected with the great square1 which1 though not of very considerable extent1 has many pretensions to magnificence1 it being surrounded with large imposing houses1 and planted with fine trees1 with marble seats below them for the accommodation of the public4 ,there are few public edifices worthy of much attention3 the chief church1 indeed1 might be considered a fine monument of labour in some other countries2 but in ,spain1 the land of noble and gigantic cathedrals1 it can be styled nothing more than a decent place of worship2 it is still in an unfinished state4 ,there is a public walk1 or alameda1 on the northern ramparts1 which is generally thronged in summer evenings3 the green of its trees1 when viewed from the bay1 affords an agreeable relief to the eye1 dazzled with the glare of the white buildings1 for ,cadiz is also a bright city4 ,it was once the wealthiest place in all ,spain1 but its prosperity has of late years sadly diminished1 and its inhabitants are continually lamenting its ruined trade2 on which account many are daily abandoning it for ,seville1 where living at least is cheaper4 ,there is still1 however1 much life and bustle in the streets1 which are adorned with many splendid shops1 several of which are in the style of ,paris and ,london4 ,the present population is said to amount to eighty thousand souls4 ,it is not without reason that ,cadiz has been called a strong town3 the fortifications on the land side1 which were partly the work of the ,french during the sway of ,napoleon1 are perfectly admirable1 and seem impregnable3 towards the sea it is defended as much by nature as by art1 water and sunken rocks being no contemptible bulwarks4 ,the defences of the town1 however1 except the landward ones1 afford melancholy proofs of ,spanish apathy and neglect1 even when allowance is made for the present peculiarly unhappy circumstances of the country4 ,scarcely a gun1 except a few dismounted ones1 is to be seen on the fortifications1 which are rapidly falling to decay1 so that this insulated stronghold is at present almost at the mercy of any foreign nation which1 upon any pretence1 or none at all1 should seek to tear it from the grasp of its present legitimate possessors1 and convert it into a foreign colony4 ,a few hours after my arrival1 ,i waited upon ,mr4 ,b---1 #bhh the ,british consul-general at ,cadiz4 ,his house1 which is the corner one at the entrance of the alameda1 commands a noble prospect of the bay1 and is very large and magnificent4 ,i had1 of course1 long been acquainted with ,mr4 ,b--- by reputation2 ,i knew that for several years he had filled1 with advantage to his native country1 and with honour to himself1 the distinguished and highly responsible situation which he holds in ,spain4 ,i knew1 likewise1 that he was a good and pious ,christian1 and1 moreover1 the firm and enlightened friend of the ,bible ,society4 ,of all this ,i was aware1 but ,i had never yet enjoyed the advantage of being personally acquainted with him4 ,i saw him now for the first time1 and was much struck with his appearance4 ,he is a tall1 athletic1 finely built man1 seemingly about forty-five or fifty2 there is much dignity in his countenance1 which is1 however1 softened by an expression of good humour truly engaging4 ,his manner is frank and affable in the extreme4 ,i am not going to enter into minute details of our interview1 which was to me a very interesting one4 ,he knew already the leading parts of my history since my arrival in ,spain1 and made several comments upon it1 which displayed his intimate knowledge of the situation of the country as regards ecclesiastical matters1 and the state of opinion respecting religious innovation4 ,i was pleased to find that his ideas in many points accorded with my own1 and we were both decidedly of opinion that1 notwithstanding the great persecution and outcry which had lately been raised against the ,gospel1 the battle was by no means lost1 and that the holy cause might yet triumph in ,spain1 if zeal united with discretion and ,christian humility were displayed by those called upon to uphold it4 ,during the greater part of this and the following day1 ,i was much occupied at the custom-house1 endeavouring to obtain the documents necessary for the exportation of the ,testaments4 ,on the afternoon of ,saturday ,i dined with ,mr4 ,b--- and his family--an interesting group--his lady1 his beautiful daughters1 and his son1 a fine intelligent young man4 ,early the next morning a steamer1 the ,balear1 was to quit ,cadiz for ,marseilles1 touching on the way at ,algeziras1 ,gibraltar1 and various other ports of ,spain4 ,i had engaged my passage on board her as far as ,gibraltar1 having nothing further to detain me at ,cadiz2 my business with the custom-house having been brought at last to a termination1 though ,i believe ,i should never have got through it but for the kind assistance of ,mr4 ,b---4 ,i quitted this excellent man and my other charming friends at a late hour with regret4 ,i believe that ,i carried with me their very best wishes2 and1 in whatever part of the world ,i1 a poor wanderer in the ,gospel's cause1 may chance to be1 ,i shall not unfrequently offer up sincere prayers for their happiness and well-being4 ,before taking leave of ,cadiz ,i shall relate an anecdote of the ,british consul1 characteristic of him and the happy manner in which he contrives to execute the most disagreeable duties of his situation4 ,i was in conversation with him in a parlour of his house1 when we were interrupted by the entrance of two very unexpected visitors3 they were the captain of a ,liverpool merchant-vessel and one of the crew4 ,the latter was a rough sailor1 a ,welshman1 who could only express himself in very imperfect ,english4 ,they looked unutterable dislike and defiance at each other4 ,it appeared that the latter had refused to work1 and insisted on leaving the ship1 and his master had in consequence brought him before the consul1 in order that1 if he persisted1 the consequences might be detailed to him1 which would be the forfeiture of his wages and clothes4 ,this was done2 but the fellow became more and more dogged1 refusing ever to tread the same deck again with his captain1 who1 he said1 had called him 8,greek1 lazy lubberly ,greek10 which he would not bear4 ,the word ,greek rankled in the sailor's mind1 and stung him to the very core4 ,mr4 ,b---1 who seemed to be perfectly acquainted with the character of ,welshmen in general--who are proverbially obstinate when opposition is offered to them--and who saw at once that the dispute had arisen on foolish and trivial grounds1 now told the man1 with a smile1 that he would inform him of a way by which he might gain the weather-gage of every one of them1 consul1 and captain1 and all1 and secure his wages and clothes2 which was by merely going on board a brig-of-war of her ,majesty1 which was then lying in the bay4 ,the fellow said he was aware of this1 and intended to do so4 ,his grim features1 however1 instantly relaxed in some degree1 and he looked more humanely upon his captain4 ,mr4 ,b--- then1 addressing himself to the latter1 made some observations on the impropriety of using the word ,greek to a ,british sailor3 not forgetting at the same time to speak of the absolute necessity of obedience and discipline on board every ship4 ,his words produced such an effect1 that in a very little time the sailor held out his hand towards his captain1 and expressed his willingness to go on board with him and perform his duty1 adding1 that the captain1 upon the whole1 was the best man in the world4 ,so they departed mutually pleased2 the consul making both of them promise to attend divine service at his house on the following day4 ,sunday morning came1 and ,i was on board the steamer by six o'clock4 ,as ,i ascended the side1 the harsh sound of the ,catalan dialect assailed my ears4 ,in fact1 the vessel was ,catalan built1 and the captain and crew were of that nation2 the greater part of the passengers already on board1 or who subsequently arrived1 appeared to be ,catalans1 and seemed to vie with each other in producing disagreeable sounds4 ,a burly merchant1 however1 with a red face1 peaked chin1 sharp eyes1 and hooked nose1 clearly bore off the palm2 he conversed with astonishing eagerness on seemingly the most indifferent subjects1 or rather on no subject at all2 his voice would have sounded exactly like a coffee-mill but for a vile nasal twang3 he poured forth his ,catalan incessantly till we arrived at ,gibraltar4 ,such people are never sea-sick1 though they frequently produce or aggravate the malady in others4 ,we did not get under way until past eight o'clock1 for we waited for the ,governor of ,algeziras1 and started instantly on his coming on board4 ,he was a tall1 thin1 rigid figure of about seventy1 with a long1 grave1 wrinkled countenance2 in a word1 the very image of an old ,spanish grandee4 ,we stood out of the bay1 rounding the lofty lighthouse1 which stands on a ledge of rocks1 and then bent our course to the south1 in the direction of the ,straits4 ,it was a glorious morning1 a blue sunny sky and blue sunny ocean2 or rather1 as my friend ,oehlenschlger #bib;a has observed on a similar occasion1 there appeared two skies and two suns1 one above and one below4 ,our progress was rather slow1 notwithstanding the fineness of the weather1 probably owing to the tide being against us4 ,in about two hours we passed the ,castle of ,santa ,petra1 and at noon were in sight of ,trafalgar4 ,the wind now freshened1 and was dead ahead2 on which account we hugged closely to the coast1 in order to avoid as much as possible the strong heavy sea which was pouring down from the ,straits4 ,we passed within a very short distance of the ,cape1 a bold bluff foreland1 but not of any considerable height4 ,it is impossible for an ,englishman to pass by this place--the scene of the most celebrated naval action on record--without emotion4 ,here it was that the united navies of ,france and ,spain were annihilated by a far inferior force2 but that force was ,british1 and was directed by one of the most remarkable men of the age1 and perhaps the greatest hero of any time4 #bib;b ,huge fragments of wreck still frequently emerge from the watery gulf whose billows chafe the rocky sides of ,trafalgar3 they are relics of the enormous ships which were burnt and sunk on that terrible day1 when the heroic champion of ,britain concluded his work and died4 ,i never heard but one individual venture to say a word in disparagement of ,nelson's glory3 it was a pert ,american1 #bic;a who observed1 that the ,british admiral was much overrated4 8,can that individual be overrated10 replied a stranger1 8whose every thought was bent on his country's honour1 who scarcely ever fought without leaving a piece of his body in the fray1 and who1 not to speak of minor triumphs1 was victorious1 in two such actions as ,aboukir and ,trafalgar80 ,we were now soon in sight of the ,moorish coast1 ,cape ,spartel appearing dimly through mist and vapour on our right4 ,a regular ,levanter #bic;b had now come on1 and the vessel pitched and tossed to a very considerable degree4 ,most of the passengers were seasick2 the governor1 however1 and myself held out manfully3 we sat on a bench together1 and entered into conversation respecting the ,moors and their country4 ,torquemada himself could not have spoken of both with more abhorrence4 ,he informed me that he had been frequently in several of the principal ,moorish towns of the coast1 which he described as heaps of ruins3 the ,moors themselves he called ,caffres #bic;c and wild beasts4 ,he observed that he had never been even at ,tangier1 where the people were most civilized1 without experiencing some insult1 so great was the abhorrence of the ,moors to anything in the shape of a ,christian4 ,he added1 however1 that they treated the ,english with comparative civility1 and that they had a saying among them to the effect that ,englishman and ,mahometan were one and the same3 he then looked particularly grave for a moment1 and1 crossing himself1 was silent4 ,i guessed what was passing in his mind3-- 8,from heretic boors1 ,and ,turkish ,moors1 ,star of the sea1 ,gentle ,marie1 ,deliver me60 ,at about three we were passing ,tarifa1 so frequently mentioned in the history of ,moors and ,christians4 ,who has not heard of ,alonzo ,guzman the ,faithful1 #bid who allowed his only son to be crucified before the walls of the town rather than submit to the ignominy of delivering up the keys to the ,moorish monarch1 who1 with a host which is said to have amounted to nearly half a million of men1 had landed on the shores of ,andalusia1 and threatened to bring all ,spain once more beneath the ,moslem yoke8 ,certainly if there be a land and a spot where the name of that good patriot is not sometimes mentioned and sung1 that land1 that spot1 is modern ,spain and modern ,tarifa4 ,i have heard the ballad of ,alonzo ,guzman chanted in ,danish1 by a hind in the wilds of ,jutland2 but once speaking of 8the ,faithful0 to some inhabitants of ,tarifa1 they replied that they had never heard of ,guzman the ,faithful of ,tarifa1 but were acquainted with ,alonzo ,guzman1 el tuerto1 and that he was one of the most villanous arrieros on the ,cadiz road4 ,the voyage of these narrow seas can scarcely fail to be interesting to the most apathetic individual1 from the nature of the scenery which presents itself to the eye on either side4 ,the coasts are exceedingly high and bold1 especially that of ,spain1 which seems to overcrow the ,moorish2 but opposite to ,tarifa1 the ,african continent1 rounding towards the south-west1 assumes an air of sublimity and grandeur4 ,a hoary mountain is seen uplifting its summits above the clouds3 it is ,mount ,abyla1 or1 as it is called in the ,moorish tongue1 ,gibil ,muza1 or the hill of ,muza1 from the circumstance of its containing the sepulchre of a prophet of that name4 #bie ,this is one of the two excrescences of nature on which the ,old ,world bestowed the title of the ,pillars of ,hercules4 ,its skirts and sides occupy the ,moorish coast for many leagues in more than one direction1 but the broad aspect of its steep and stupendous front is turned full towards that part of the ,european continent where ,gibraltar lies like a huge monster stretching far into the brine4 ,of the two hills1 or pillars1 the most remarkable1 when viewed from afar1 is the ,african one1 ,gibil ,muza4 ,it is the tallest and bulkiest1 and is visible at a greater distance2 but scan them both from near1 and you feel that all your wonder is engrossed by the ,european column4 ,gibil ,muza is an immense shapeless mass1 a wilderness of rocks1 with here and there a few trees and shrubs nodding from the clefts of its precipices2 it is uninhabited1 save by wolves1 wild swine1 and chattering monkeys1 on which last account it is called by the ,spaniards1 ,montaa de las ,monas1 #bif;a whilst1 on the contrary1 ,gibraltar1 not to speak of the strange city which covers part of it1 a city inhabited by men of all nations and tongues1 its batteries and excavations1 all of them miracles of art1 is the most singular-looking mountain in the world--a mountain which can neither be described by pen nor pencil1 and at which the eye is never satiated with gazing4 ,it was near sunset1 and we were crossing the bay of ,gibraltar4 ,we had stopped at ,algeziras1 on the ,spanish side1 for the purpose of landing the old governor and his suite1 and delivering and receiving letters4 ,algeziras is an ancient ,moorish town1 as the name denotes1 which is an ,arabic word1 and signifies 8the place of the islands40 #bif;b ,it is situated at the water's edge1 with a lofty range of mountains in the rear4 ,it seemed a sad deserted place1 as far as ,i could judge at the distance of half a mile4 ,in the harbour1 however1 lay a ,spanish frigate and ,french war brig4 ,as we passed the former1 some of the ,spaniards on board our steamer became boastful at the expense of the ,english4 ,it appeared that1 a few weeks before1 an ,english vessel1 suspected to be a contraband trader1 was seen by this frigate hovering about a bay on the ,andalusian coast1 in company with an ,english frigate1 the ,orestes4 ,the ,spaniard dogged them for some time1 till one morning1 observing that the ,orestes had disappeared1 he hoisted ,english colours1 and made a signal to the trader to bear down2 the latter1 deceived by the ,british ensign1 and supposing that the ,spaniard was the friendly ,orestes1 instantly drew near1 was fired at and boarded1 and1 proving in effect to be a contraband trader1 she was carried into port and delivered over to the ,spanish authorities4 ,in a few days the captain of the ,orestes hearing of this1 and incensed at the unwarrantable use made of the ,british flag1 sent a boat on board the frigate1 demanding that the vessel should be instantly restored1 as1 if she was not1 he would retake her by force2 adding1 that he had forty cannons on board4 ,the captain of the ,spanish frigate returned for answer1 that the trader was in the hands of the officers of the customs1 and was no longer at his disposal2 that the captain of the ,orestes1 however1 could do what he pleased1 and that if he had forty guns1 he himself had forty-four2 whereupon the ,orestes thought proper to bear away4 ,such at least was the ,spanish account1 as related by the journals4 ,observing the ,spaniards to be in great glee at the idea of one of their nation having frightened away the ,englishman1 ,i exclaimed1 8,gentlemen1 all of you who suppose that an ,english sea-captain has been deterred from attacking a ,spaniard1 from an apprehension of a superior force of four guns1 remember1 if you please1 the fate of the ,santsima ,trinidad1 and be pleased also not to forget that we are almost within cannon's sound of ,trafalgar40 ,it was near sunset1 ,i repeat1 and we were crossing the bay of ,gibraltar4 ,i stood on the prow of the vessel1 with my eyes intently fixed on the mountain fortress1 which1 though ,i had seen it several times before1 filled my mind with admiration and interest4 ,viewed from this situation1 it certainly1 if it resembles any animate object in nature1 has something of the appearance of a terrible couchant lion1 whose stupendous head menaces ,spain4 ,had ,i been dreaming1 ,i should almost have concluded it to be the genius of ,africa1 in the shape of its most puissant monster1 who had bounded over the sea from the clime of sand and sun1 bent on the destruction of the rival continent1 more especially as the hue of its stony sides1 its crest and chine1 is tawny even as that of the hide of the desert king4 ,a hostile lion has it almost invariably proved to ,spain1 at least since it first began to play a part in history1 which was at the time when ,tarik seized and fortified it4 #bih ,it has for the most part been in the hands of foreigners3 first the swarthy and turbaned ,moor possessed it1 and it is now tenanted by a fair-haired race from a distant isle4 ,though a part of ,spain1 it seems to disavow the connexion1 and at the end of a long narrow sandy isthmus1 almost level with the sea1 raising its blasted and perpendicular brow to denounce the crimes which deformed the history of that fair and majestic land4 ,it was near sunset1 ,i say it for the third time1 and we were crossing the bay of ,gibraltar4 ,bay6 it seemed no bay1 but an inland sea1 surrounded on all sides by enchanted barriers1 so strange1 so wonderful was the aspect of its coasts4 ,before us lay the impregnable hill2 on our right the ,african continent1 with its grey ,gibil ,muza1 and the crag of ,ceuta1 to which last a solitary bark seemed steering its way2 behind us the town we had just quitted1 with its mountain wall2 on our left the coast of ,spain4 ,the surface of the water was unruffled by a wave1 and as we rapidly glided on1 the strange object which we were approaching became momentarily more distinct and visible4 ,there1 at the base of the mountain1 and covering a small portion of its side1 lay the city1 with its ramparts garnished with black guns1 pointing significantly at its moles and harbours2 above1 seemingly on every crag which could be made available for the purpose of defence or destruction1 peered batteries1 pale and sepulchral looking1 as if ominous of the fate which awaited any intrusive foe2 whilst east and west towards ,africa and ,spain1 on the extreme points1 rose castles1 towers1 or atalayas1 which overcrowed the whole1 and all the circumjacent region1 whether land or sea4 ,mighty and threatening appeared the fortifications1 and doubtless1 viewed in any other situation1 would have alone occupied the mind and engrossed its wonder2 but the hill1 the wondrous hill was everywhere about them1 beneath them1 or above them1 overpowering their effect as a spectacle4 ,who1 when he beholds the enormous elephant1 with his brandished trunk1 dashing impetuously to the war1 sees the castle which he bears1 or fears the javelins of those whom he carries1 however skilful and warlike they may be8 ,never does ,god appear so great and powerful as when the works of his hands stand in contrast with the labours of man4 ,survey the ,escurial2 it is a proud work1 but wonder if you can when you see the mountain mocking it behind2 survey that boast of ,moorish kings1 survey ,granada from its plain1 and wonder if you can1 for you see the ,alpujarras mocking it from behind4 ,oh1 what are the works of man compared with those of the ,lord8 ,even as man is compared with his ,creator4 ,man builds pyramids1 and ,god builds pyramids2 the pyramids of man are heaps of shingles1 tiny hillocks on a sandy plain2 the pyramids of the ,lord are ,andes and ,indian hills4 ,man builds walls1 and so does his ,master2 but the walls of ,god are the black precipices of ,gibraltar and ,horneel1 eternal1 indestructible1 and not to be scaled2 whilst those of man can be climbed1 can be broken by the wave1 or shattered by the lightning or the powder blast4 ,would man display his power and grandeur to advantage1 let him flee far from the hills2 for the broad pennants of ,god1 even his clouds1 float upon the tops of the hills1 and the majesty of ,god is most manifest among the hills4 ,call ,gibraltar the hill of ,tarik or ,hercules1 if you will2 but gaze upon it for a moment1 and you will call it the hill of ,god4 ,tarik and the old giant may have built upon it2 but not all the dark race of whom ,tarik was one1 nor all the giants of old renown of whom the other was one1 could have built up its crags or chiselled the enormous mass to its present shape4 ,we dropped anchor not far from the ,mole4 ,as we expected every moment to hear the evening gun1 after which no person is permitted to enter the town1 ,i was in trepidation lest ,i should be obliged to pass the night on board the dirty ,catalan steamer1 which1 as ,i had no occasion to proceed further in her1 ,i was in great haste to quit4 ,a boat now drew nigh1 with two individuals at the stern1 one of whom1 standing up1 demanded1 in an authoritative voice1 the name of the vessel1 her destination1 and cargo4 ,upon being answered1 they came on board4 ,after some conversation with the captain1 they were about to depart1 when ,i inquired whether ,i could accompany them on shore4 ,the person ,i addressed was a tall young man1 with a fustian frock-coat4 ,he had a long face1 long nose1 and wide mouth1 with large restless eyes4 ,there was a grin on his countenance which seemed permanent1 and1 had it not been for his bronzed complexion1 ,i should have declared him to be a cockney1 and nothing else4 ,he was1 however1 no such thing1 but what is called 8a rock lizard10 #cja that is1 a person born at ,gibraltar of ,english parents4 ,upon hearing my question1 which was in ,spanish1 he grinned more than ever1 and inquired1 in a strange accent1 whether ,i was a son of ,gibraltar4 ,i replied that ,i had not that honour1 but that ,i was a ,british subject4 ,whereupon he said that he should make no difficulty in taking me ashore4 ,we entered the boat1 which was rapidly rowed toward the land by four ,genoese sailors4 ,my two companions chattered in their strange ,spanish1 he of the fustian occasionally turning his countenance full upon me1 the last grin appearing even more hideous than the preceding ones4 ,we soon reached the quay1 where my name was noted down by a person who demanded my passport1 and ,i was then permitted to advance4 ,it was now dusk1 and ,i lost no time in crossing the drawbridge and entering the long low archway which1 passing under the rampart1 communicates with the town4 ,beneath this archway paced1 with measured tread1 tall red-coated sentinels with shouldered guns4 ,there was no stopping1 no sauntering in these men4 ,there was no laughter1 no exchange of light conversation with the passers-by1 but their bearing was that of ,british soldiers1 conscious of the duties of their station4 ,what a difference between them and the listless loiterers who stand at guard at the gate of a ,spanish garrisoned town6 ,i now proceeded up the principal street1 which runs with a gentle ascent along the base of the hill4 ,accustomed for some months past to the melancholy silence of ,seville1 ,i was almost deafened by the noise and bustle which reigned around4 ,it was ,sunday night1 and of course no business was going on1 but there were throngs of people passing up and down4 ,here was a military guard proceeding along2 here walked a group of officers1 there a knot of soldiers stood talking and laughing4 ,the greater part of the civilians appeared to be ,spaniards1 but there was a large sprinkling of ,jews in the dress of those of ,barbary1 and here and there a turbaned ,moor4 ,there were gangs of sailors likewise1 ,genoese1 judging from the patois which they were speaking1 though ,i occasionally distinguished the sound of tou logou sas1 #cjb by which ,i knew there were ,greeks at hand1 and twice or thrice caught a glimpse of the red cap and blue silken petticoats of the mariner from the ,romaic isles4 ,on still ,i hurried1 till ,i arrived at a well-known hostelry1 close by a kind of square1 in which stands the little exchange of ,gibraltar4 ,into this ,i ran and demanded lodging1 receiving a cheerful welcome from the genius of the place1 who stood behind the bar1 and whom ,i shall perhaps have occasion subsequently to describe4 ,all the lower rooms were filled with men of the rock1 burly men in general1 with swarthy complexions and ,english features1 with white hats1 white jean jerkins1 and white jean pantaloons4 ,they were smoking pipes and cigars1 and drinking porter1 wine1 and various other fluids1 and conversing in the rock ,spanish1 or rock ,english1 as the fit took them4 ,dense was the smoke of tobacco1 and great the din of voices1 and ,i was glad to hasten upstairs to an unoccupied apartment1 where ,i was served with some refreshment1 of which ,i stood much in need4 ,i was soon disturbed by the sound of martial music close below my windows4 ,i went down and stood at the door4 ,a military band was marshalled upon the little square before the exchange4 ,it was preparing to beat the retreat4 ,after the prelude1 which was admirably executed1 the tall leader gave a flourish with his stick1 and strode forward up the street1 followed by the whole company of noble-looking fellows and a crowd of admiring listeners4 ,the cymbals clashed1 the horns screamed1 and the kettle-drum emitted its deep awful note1 till the old rock echoed again1 and the hanging terraces of the town rang with the stirring noise-- 8,dub-a-dub1 dub-a-dub--thus go the drums1 ,tantara1 tantara1 the ,englishman comes40 ,o ,england6 long1 long may it be ere the sun of thy glory sink beneath the wave of darkness6 ,though gloomy and portentous clouds are now gathering rapidly around thee1 still1 still may it please the ,almighty to disperse them1 and to grant thee a futurity longer in duration1 and still brighter in renown1 than thy past6 ,or if thy doom be at hand1 may that doom be a noble one1 and worthy of her who has been styled the ,old ,queen of the waters6 ,may thou sink1 if thou dost sink1 amidst blood and flame1 with a mighty noise1 causing more than one nation to participate in thy downfall6 ,of all fates1 may it please the ,lord to preserve thee from a disgraceful and a slow decay2 becoming1 ere extinct1 a scorn and a mockery for those selfsame foes who now1 though they envy and abhor thee1 still fear thee1 nay1 even against their will1 honour and respect thee6 ,arouse thee1 whilst yet there is time1 and prepare thee for the combat of life and death6 ,cast from thee the foul scurf which now encrusts thy robust limbs1 which deadens their force1 and makes them heavy and powerless6 ,cast from thee thy false philosophers1 who would fain decry what1 next to the love of ,god1 has hitherto been deemed most sacred1 the love of the mother land6 ,cast from thee thy false patriots1 who1 under the pretext of redressing the wrongs of the poor and weak1 seek to promote internal discord1 so that thou mayest become only terrible to thyself6 ,and remove from thee the false prophets1 who have seen vanity and divined lies2 who have daubed thy wall with untempered mortar1 that it may fall2 who see visions of peace where there is no peace2 who have strengthened the hands of the wicked1 and made the heart of the righteous sad4 ,oh1 do this1 and fear not the result2 for either shall thy end be a majestic and an enviable one1 or ,god shall perpetuate thy reign upon the waters1 thou ,old ,queen6 ,the above was part of a broken prayer for my native land1 which1 after my usual thanksgiving1 ,i breathed to the ,almighty ere retiring to rest that ,sunday night at ,gibraltar4 ,,chapter ,,lii4 ,the ,jolly ,hosteler--,aspirants for ,glory--,a ,portrait--,hamles--,solomons--,an ,expedition--,the ,yeoman ,soldier--,the ,excavations--,the ,pull by the ,skirt--,judah and his ,father--,judah's ,pilgrimage--,the ,bushy ,beard--,the ,false ,moors--,judah and the ,king's ,son--,premature ,old ,age4 ,perhaps it would have been impossible to have chosen a situation more adapted for studying at my ease ,gibraltar and its inhabitants1 than that which ,i found myself occupying about ten o'clock on the following morning4 ,seated on a small bench just opposite the bar1 close by the door1 in the passage of the hostelry at which ,i had taken up my temporary abode1 ,i enjoyed a view of the square of the exchange and all that was going on there1 and1 by merely raising my eyes1 could gaze at my leisure on the stupendous hill which towers above the town to an altitude of some thousand feet4 ,i could likewise observe every person who entered or left the house1 which is one of great resort1 being situated in the most frequented place of the principal thoroughfare of the town4 ,my eyes were busy1 and so were my ears4 ,close beside me stood my excellent friend ,griffiths1 the jolly hosteler1 of whom ,i take the present opportunity of saying a few words1 though ,i dare say he has been frequently described before1 and by far better pens4 ,let those who know him not figure to themselves a man of about fifty1 at least six feet in height1 and weighing some eighteen stone1 an exceedingly florid countenance and good features1 eyes full of quickness and shrewdness1 but at the same time beaming with good nature4 ,he wears white pantaloons1 white frock1 and white hat1 and is1 indeed1 all white1 with the exception of his polished ,wellingtons and rubicund face4 ,he carries a whip beneath his arm1 which adds wonderfully to the knowingness of his appearance1 which is rather more that of a gentleman who keeps an inn on the ,newmarket road1 8purely for the love of travellers1 and the money which they carry about them10 than of a native of the rock4 ,nevertheless1 he will tell you himself that he is a rock lizard2 and you will scarcely doubt it when1 besides his ,english1 which is broad and vernacular1 you hear him speak ,spanish1 ay1 and ,genoese too1 when necessary1 and it is no child's play to speak the latter1 which ,i myself could never master4 ,he is a good judge of horseflesh1 and occasionally sells a 8bit of a blood10 or a ,barbary steed1 to a young hand1 though he has no objection to do business with an old one2 for there is not a thin1 crouching1 liver-faced1 lynx-eyed ,jew of ,fez capable of outwitting him in a bargain1 or cheating him out of one single pound of the fifty thousand sterling which he possesses2 and yet ever bear in mind that he is a good-natured fellow to those who are disposed to behave honourably to him1 and know likewise that he will lend you money1 if you are a gentleman1 and are in need of it2 but depend upon it1 if he refuse you1 there is something not altogether right about you1 for ,griffiths knows his world1 and is not to be made a fool of4 ,there was a prodigious quantity of porter consumed in my presence during the short hour that ,i sat on the bench of that hostelry of the rock4 ,the passage before the bar was frequently filled with officers1 who lounged in for a refreshment which the sultry heat of the weather rendered necessary1 or at least inviting2 whilst not a few came galloping up to the door on small ,barbary horses1 which are to be found in great abundance at ,gibraltar4 ,all seemed to be on the best of terms with the host1 with whom they occasionally discussed the merits of particular steeds1 and whose jokes they invariably received with unbounded approbation4 ,there was much in the demeanour and appearance of these young men1 for the greater part were quite young1 which was highly interesting and agreeable4 ,indeed1 ,i believe it may be said of ,english officers in general1 that in personal appearance1 and in polished manners1 they bear the palm from those of the same class over the world4 ,true it is1 that the officers of the royal guard of ,russia1 especially of the three noble regiments styled the ,priberjensky1 ,simeonsky1 and ,finlansky polks1 #cjg might fearlessly enter into competition in almost all points with the flower of the ,british army2 but it must be remembered1 that those regiments are officered by the choicest specimens of the ,sclavonian nobility1 young men selected expressly for the splendour of their persons1 and for the superiority of their mental endowments2 whilst1 probably1 amongst all the fair-haired ,anglo-,saxon youths whom ,i now saw gathered near me1 there was not a single one of noble ancestry1 nor of proud and haughty name2 and certainly1 so far from having been selected to flatter the pride and add to the pomp of a despot1 they had been taken indiscriminately from a mass of ardent aspirants for military glory1 and sent on their country's service to a remote and unhealthy colony4 ,nevertheless1 they were such as their country might be proud of1 for gallant boys they looked1 with courage on their brows1 beauty and health on their cheeks1 and intelligence in their hazel eyes4 ,who is he who now stops before the door without entering1 and addresses a question to my host1 who advances with a respectful salute8 ,he is no common man1 or his appearance belies him strangely4 ,his dress is simple enough2 a ,spanish hat1 with a peaked crown and broad shadowy brim--the veritable sombrero--jean pantaloons and blue hussar jacket2--but how well that dress becomes one of the most noble-looking figures ,i ever beheld6 ,i gazed upon him with strange respect and admiration as he stood benignantly smiling and joking in good ,spanish with an impudent rock rascal1 who held in his hand a huge bogamante1 or coarse carrion lobster1 which he would fain have persuaded him to purchase4 ,he was almost gigantically tall1 towering nearly three inches above the burly host himself1 yet athletically symmetrical1 and straight as the pine-tree of ,dovrefeld4 ,he must have counted eleven lustres1 which cast an air of mature dignity over a countenance which seemed to have been chiselled by some ,grecian sculptor1 and yet his hair was black as the plume of the ,norwegian raven1 and so was the moustache which curled above his well-formed lip4 ,in the garb of ,greece1 and in the camp before ,troy1 ,i should have taken him for ,agamemnon4 8,is that man a general80 said ,i to a short queer-looking personage1 who sat by my side1 intently studying a newspaper4 8,that gentleman10 he whispered in a lisping accent1 8is1 sir1 the ,lieutenant-,governor of ,gibraltar40 #cji ,on either side outside the door1 squatting on the ground1 or leaning indolently against the walls1 were some half-dozen men of very singular appearance4 ,their principal garment was a kind of blue gown1 something resembling the blouse worn by the peasants of the north of ,france1 but not so long2 it was compressed around their waists by a leathern girdle1 and depended about halfway down their thighs4 ,their legs were bare1 so that ,i had an opportunity of observing the calves1 which appeared unnaturally large4 ,upon the head they wore small skull-caps of black wool4 ,i asked the most athletic of these men1 a dark-visaged fellow of forty1 who they were4 ,he answered1 humles4 ,this word ,i knew to be ,arabic1 in which tongue it signifies a porter2 and1 indeed1 the next moment1 ,i saw a similar fellow staggering across the square under an immense burden1 almost sufficient to have broken the back of a camel4 ,on again addressing my swarthy friend1 and inquiring whence he came1 he replied1 that he was born at ,mogadore1 in ,barbary1 but had passed the greatest part of his life at ,gibraltar4 ,he added1 that he was the capataz1 or head man1 of the hamles near the door4 ,i now addressed him in the ,arabic of the ,east1 though with scarcely the hope of being understood1 more especially as he had been so long from his own country4 ,he1 however1 answered very pertinently1 his lips quivering with eagerness and his eyes sparkling with joy1 though it was easy to perceive that the ,arabic1 or rather the ,moorish1 was not the language in which he was accustomed either to think or speak4 ,his companions all gathered round and listened with avidity1 occasionally exclaiming1 when anything was said which they approved of3 8,wakhud rajil shereef hada1 min beled del scharki40 #caj ,at last ,i produced the shekel1 which ,i invariably carry about me as a pocket-piece1 and asked the capataz whether he had ever seen that money before4 ,he surveyed the censer and olive-branch for a considerable time1 and evidently knew not what to make of it4 ,at length he fell to inspecting the characters round about it on both sides1 and giving a cry1 exclaimed to the other hamles3 8,brothers1 brothers1 these are the letters of ,solomon4 ,this silver is blessed4 ,we must kiss this money40 ,he then put it upon his head1 pressed it to his eyes1 and finally kissed it with enthusiasm1 as did successively all his brethren4 ,then regaining it1 he returned it to me1 with a low reverence4 ,griffiths subsequently informed me that the fellow refused to work during all the rest of the day1 and did nothing but smile1 laugh1 and talk to himself4 8,allow me to offer you a glass of bitters1 sir10 said the queer-looking personage before mentioned2 he was a corpulent man1 very short1 and his legs particularly so4 ,his dress consisted of a greasy snuff-coloured coat1 dirty white trousers1 and dirtier stockings4 ,on his head he wore a rusty silk hat1 the eaves of which had a tendency to turn up before and behind4 ,i had observed that1 during my conversation with the hamles1 he had several times uplifted his eyes from the newspaper1 and on the production of the shekel had grinned very significantly1 and had inspected it when in the hand of the capataz4 8,allow me to offer you a glass of bitters10 said he2 8,i guessed you was one of our people before you spoke to the hamles4 ,sir1 it does my heart good to see a gentleman of your appearance not above speaking to his poor brethren4 ,it is what ,i do myself not unfrequently1 and ,i hope ,god will blot out my name1 and that is ,solomons1 when ,i despise them4 ,i do not pretend to much ,arabic myself1 yet ,i understood you tolerably well1 and ,i liked your discourse much4 ,you must have a great deal of shillam eidri1 nevertheless you startled me when you asked the haml if he ever read the ,torah2 of course you meant with the meforshim2 poor as he is1 ,i do not believe him becoresh enough to read the ,torah without the commentators4 ,so help me1 sir1 ,i believe you to be a ,salamancan ,jew2 ,i am told there are still some of the old families to be found there4 ,ever at ,tudela1 sir8 not very far from ,salamanca1 ,i believe2 one of my own kindred once lived there3 a great traveller1 sir1 like yourself2 went over all the world to look for the ,jews--went to the top of ,sinai4 ,anything that ,i can do for you at ,gibraltar1 sir8 ,any commission8 will execute it as reasonably1 and more expeditiously than any one else4 ,my name is ,solomons4 ,i am tolerably well known at ,gibraltar2 yes1 sir1 and in the ,crooked ,friars1 and1 for that matter1 in the ,neuen ,stein ,steg1 #caa at ,hamburg2 so help me1 sir1 ,i think ,i once saw your face at the fair at ,bremen4 ,speak ,german1 sir8 though of course you do4 ,allow me1 sir1 to offer you a glass of bitters4 ,i wish1 sir1 they were mayim hayim #cab;a for your sake1 ,i do indeed1 sir1 ,i wish they were living waters4 ,now1 sir1 do give me your opinion as to this matter 7lowering his voice and striking the newspaper74 ,do you not think it is very hard that one ,yudken should betray the other8 ,when ,i put my little secret beyad peluni #cab;b--you understand me1 sir8 when ,i entrust my poor secret to the custody of an individual1 and that individual a ,jew1 a ,yudken1 sir1 ,i do not wish to be blown1 indeed1 ,i do not expect it4 ,in a word1 what do you think of the gold dust robbery1 and what will be done to those unfortunate people1 who ,i see are convicted80 ,that same day ,i made inquiry respecting the means of transferring myself to ,tangier1 having no wish to prolong my stay at ,gibraltar1 where1 though it is an exceedingly interesting place to an observant traveller1 ,i had no particular business to detain me4 ,in the evening ,i was visited by a ,jew1 a native of ,barbary1 who informed me that he was secretary to the master of a small ,genoese bark which plied between ,tangier and ,gibraltar4 ,upon his assuring me that the vessel would infallibly start for the former place on the following evening1 ,i agreed with him for my passage4 ,he said that as the wind was blowing from the ,levant quarter1 the voyage would be a speedy one4 ,being desirous now of disposing to the most advantage of the short time which ,i expected to remain at ,gibraltar1 ,i determined upon visiting the excavations1 which ,i had as yet never seen1 on the following morning1 and accordingly sent for1 and easily obtained1 the necessary permission4 ,about six on ,tuesday morning1 ,i started on this expedition1 attended by a very intelligent good-looking lad of the ,jewish persuasion1 one of two brothers who officiated at the inn in the capacity of valets de place4 ,the morning was dim and hazy1 yet sultry to a degree4 ,we ascended a precipitous street1 and1 proceeding in an easterly direction1 soon arrived in the vicinity of what is generally known by the name of the ,moorish ,castle1 a large tower1 but so battered by the cannon balls discharged against it in the famous siege1 that it is at present little better than a ruin4 ,hundreds of round holes are to be seen in its sides1 in which1 as it is said1 the shot are still embedded4 ,here1 at a species of hut1 we were joined by an artillery sergeant1 who was to be our guide4 ,after saluting us1 he led the way to a huge rock1 where he unlocked a gate at the entrance of a dark vaulted passage which passed under it1 emerging from which passage we found ourselves in a steep path1 or rather staircase1 with walls on either side4 ,we proceeded very leisurely1 for hurry in such a situation would have been of little avail1 as we should have lost our breath in a minute's time4 ,the soldier1 perfectly well acquainted with the locality1 stalked along with measured steps1 his eyes turned to the ground4 ,i looked fully as much at that man as at the strange place where we now were1 and which was every moment becoming stranger4 ,he was a fine specimen of the yeoman turned soldier2 indeed1 the corps to which he belonged consists almost entirely of that class4 ,there he paces along1 tall1 strong1 ruddy1 and chestnut-haired1 an ,englishman every inch2 behold him pacing along1 sober1 silent1 and civil1 a genuine ,english soldier4 ,i prize the sturdy ,scot1 ,i love the daring and impetuous ,irishman2 ,i admire all the various races which constitute the population of the ,british isles2 yet ,i must say that1 upon the whole1 none are so well adapted to ply the soldier's hardy trade as the rural sons of old ,england1 so strong1 so cool1 yet1 at the same time1 animated with so much hidden fire4 ,turn to the history of ,england and you will at once perceive of what such men are capable3 even at ,hastings1 in the grey old time1 under almost every disadvantage1 weakened by a recent and terrible conflict1 without discipline1 comparatively speaking1 and uncouthly armed1 they all but vanquished the ,norman chivalry4 ,trace their deeds in ,france1 which they twice subdued2 and even follow them to ,spain1 where they twanged the yew and raised the battle-axe1 and left behind them a name of glory at ,ingles ,mendi1 #cad a name that shall last till fire consumes the ,cantabrian hills4 ,and1 oh1 in modern times1 trace the deeds of these gallant men all over the world1 and especially in ,france and ,spain1 and admire them1 even as ,i did that sober1 silent1 soldier-like man who was showing me the wonders of a foreign mountain fortress1 wrested by his countrymen from a powerful and proud nation more than a century before1 and of which he was now a trusty and efficient guardian4 ,we arrived close to the stupendous precipice1 which rises abruptly above the isthmus called the neutral ground1 staring gauntly and horridly at ,spain1 and immediately entered the excavations4 ,they consist of galleries scooped in the living rock at the distance of some twelve feet from the outside1 behind which they run the whole breadth of the hill in this direction4 ,in these galleries1 at short distances1 are ragged yawning apertures1 all formed by the hand of man1 where stand the cannon upon neat slightly raised pavements of small flint stones1 each with its pyramid of bullets on one side1 and on the other a box1 in which is stowed the gear which the gunner requires in the exercise of his craft4 ,everything was in its place1 everything in the nicest ,english order1 everything ready to scathe and overwhelm in a few moments the proudest and most numerous host which might appear marching in hostile array against this singular fortress on the land side4 ,there is not much variety in these places1 one cavern and one gun resembling the other4 ,as for the guns1 they are not of large calibre1 indeed1 such are not needed here1 where a pebble discharged from so great an altitude1 would be fraught with death4 ,on descending a shaft1 however1 ,i observed1 in one cave of special importance1 two enormous carronades looking with peculiar wickedness and malignity down a shelving rock1 which perhaps1 although not without tremendous difficulty1 might be scaled4 ,the mere wind of one of these huge guns would be sufficient to topple over a thousand men4 ,what sensations of dread and horror must be awakened in the breast of a foe when this hollow rock1 in the day of siege1 emits its flame1 smoke1 and thundering wind from a thousand yawning holes2 horror not inferior to that felt by the peasant of the neighbourhood when ,mongibello #caf belches forth from all its orifices its sulphureous fires4 ,emerging from the excavations1 we proceeded to view various batteries4 ,i asked the sergeant whether his companions and himself were dexterous at the use of the guns4 ,he replied that these cannons were to them what the fowling-piece is to the fowler1 that they handled them as easily1 and1 he believed1 pointed them with more precision1 as they seldom or never missed an object within range of the shot4 ,this man never spoke until he was addressed1 and then the answers which he gave were replete with good sense1 and in general well worded4 ,after our excursion1 which lasted at least two hours1 ,i made him a small present1 and took leave with a hearty shake of the hand4 ,in the evening ,i prepared to go on board the vessel bound for ,tangier1 trusting in what the ,jewish secretary had told me as to its sailing4 ,meeting him1 however1 accidentally in the street1 he informed me that it would not start until the following morning1 advising me at the same time to be on board at an early hour4 ,i now roamed about the streets until night was beginning to set in1 and becoming weary1 ,i was just about to direct my steps to the inn1 when ,i felt myself gently pulled by the skirt4 ,i was amidst a concourse of people who were gathered around some ,irish soldiers who were disputing1 and ,i paid no attention2 but ,i was pulled again more forcibly than before1 and ,i heard myself addressed in a language which ,i had half forgotten1 and which ,i scarcely expected ever to hear again4 ,i looked round1 and lo6 a tall figure stood close to me and gazed in my face with anxious inquiring eyes4 ,on its head was the kauk or furred cap of ,jerusalem2 depending from its shoulders1 and almost trailing on the ground1 was a broad blue mantle1 whilst kandrisa or ,turkish trousers enveloped its nether limbs4 ,i gazed on the figure as wistfully as it gazed upon me4 ,at first the features appeared perfectly strange1 and ,i was about to exclaim1 8,i know you not10 when one or two lineaments struck me1 and ,i cried1 though somewhat hesitatingly1 8,surely this is ,judah ,lib40 ,i was in a steamer in the ,baltic in the year '#cd1 if ,i mistake not4 ,there was a drizzling rain and a high sea1 when ,i observed a young man of about two and twenty leaning in a melancholy attitude against the side of the vessel4 ,by his countenance ,i knew him to be one of the ,hebrew race1 nevertheless there was something very singular in his appearance1 something which is rarely found amongst that people1 a certain air of nobleness which highly interested me4 ,i approached him1 and in a few minutes we were in earnest conversation4 ,he spoke ,polish and ,jewish ,german indiscriminately4 ,the story which he related to me was highly extraordinary1 yet ,i yielded implicit credit to all his words1 which came from his mouth with an air of sincerity which precluded doubt2 and1 moreover1 he could have no motive for deceiving me4 ,one idea1 one object1 engrossed him entirely3 8,my father10 said he1 in language which strongly marked his race1 8was a native of ,galatia1 a ,jew of high caste1 a learned man1 for he knew ,zohar1 #cah and he was likewise skilled in medicine4 ,when ,i was a child of some eight years1 he left ,galatia1 and taking his wife1 who was my mother1 and myself with him1 he bent his way unto the ,east1 even to ,jerusalem2 there he established himself as a merchant1 for he was acquainted with trade and the arts of getting money4 ,he was much respected by the ,rabbins of ,jerusalem1 for he was a ,polish man1 and he knew more ,zohar and more secrets than the wisest of them4 ,he made frequent journeys1 and was absent for weeks and for months1 but he never exceeded six moons4 ,my father loved me1 and he taught me part of what he knew in the moments of his leisure4 ,i assisted him in his trade1 but he took me not with him in his journeys4 ,we had a shop at ,jerusalem1 even a shop of commerce1 where we sold the goods of the ,nazarene1 and my mother and myself1 and even a little sister who was born shortly after our arrival at ,jerusalem1 all assisted my father in his commerce4 ,at length it came to pass1 that on a particular time he told us that he was going on a journey1 and he embraced us and bade us farewell1 and he departed1 whilst we continued at ,jerusalem attending to the business4 ,we awaited his return1 but months passed1 even six months1 and he came not1 and we wondered2 and months passed1 even other six passed1 but still he came not1 nor did we hear any tidings of him1 and our hearts were filled with heaviness and sorrow4 ,but when years1 even two years1 were expired1 ,i said to my mother1 #8,i will go and seek my father2' and she said1 #8,do so1' and she gave me her blessing1 and ,i kissed my little sister1 and ,i went forth as far as ,egypt1 and there ,i heard tidings of my father1 for people told me he had been there1 and they named the time1 and they said that he had passed from thence to the land of the ,turk2 so ,i myself followed to the land of the ,turk1 even unto ,constantinople4 ,and when ,i arrived there ,i again heard of my father1 for he was well known amongst the ,jews1 and they told me the time of his being there1 and they added that he had speculated and prospered1 and departed from ,constantinople1 but whither he went they knew not4 ,so ,i reasoned within myself and said1 perhaps he may have gone to the land of his fathers1 even unto ,galatia1 to visit his kindred2 so ,i determined to go there myself1 and ,i went1 and ,i found our kindred1 and ,i made myself known to them1 and they rejoiced to see me3 but when ,i asked them for my father1 they shook their heads and could give me no intelligence2 and they would fain have had me tarry with them1 but ,i would not1 for the thought of my father was working strong within me1 and ,i could not rest4 ,so ,i departed and went to another country1 even unto ,russia1 and ,i went deep into that country1 even as far as ,kazan1 and of all ,i met1 whether ,jew1 or ,russ1 or ,tartar1 ,i inquired for my father3 but no one knew him1 nor had heard of him4 ,so ,i turned back1 and here thou seest me2 and ,i now purpose going through all ,germany and ,france1 nay1 through all the world1 until ,i have received intelligence of my father1 for ,i cannot rest until ,i know what is become of my father1 for the thought of him burneth in my brain like fire1 even like the fire of ,jehinnim40 ,such was the individual whom ,i now saw again1 after a lapse of five years1 in the street of ,gibraltar1 in the dusk of the evening4 8,yes10 he replied1 8,i am ,judah1 surnamed the ,lib4 ,thou didst not recognize me1 but ,i knew thee at once4 ,i should have known thee amongst a million1 and not a day has passed since ,i last saw thee1 but ,i have thought on thee40 ,i was about to reply1 but he pulled me out of the crowd and led me into a shop where1 squatted on the floor1 sat six or seven ,jews cutting leather2 he said something to them which ,i did not understand1 whereupon they bowed their heads and followed their occupation1 without taking any notice of us4 ,a singular figure had followed us to the door3 it was a man dressed in exceedingly shabby ,european garments1 which exhibited nevertheless the cut of a fashionable tailor4 ,he seemed about fifty2 his face1 which was very broad1 was of a deep bronze colour2 the features were rugged1 but exceedingly manly1 and1 notwithstanding they were those of a ,jew1 exhibited no marks of cunning1 but1 on the contrary1 much simplicity and good nature4 ,his form was above the middle height1 and tremendously athletic1 the arms and back were literally those of a ,hercules squeezed into a modern surtout2 the lower part of his face was covered with a bushy beard1 which depended halfway down his breast4 ,this figure remained at the door1 his eyes fixed upon myself and ,judah4 ,the first inquiry which ,i now addressed was1 8,have you heard of your father80 8,i have10 he replied4 8,when we parted1 ,i proceeded through many lands1 and wherever ,i went ,i inquired of the people respecting my father1 but still they shook their heads1 until ,i arrived at the land of ,tunis2 and there ,i went to the head ,rabbi1 and he told me that he knew my father well1 and that he had been there1 even at ,tunis1 and he named the time1 and he said that from thence he departed for the land of ,fez2 and he spoke much of my father and of his learning1 and he mentioned the ,zohar1 even that dark book which my father loved so well2 and he spoke yet more of my father's wealth and his speculations1 in all of which it seems he had thriven4 ,so ,i departed1 and ,i mounted a ship1 and ,i went into the land of ,barbary1 even unto ,fez1 and when ,i arrived there ,i heard much intelligence of my father1 but it was intelligence which perhaps was worse than ignorance4 ,for the ,jews told me that my father had been there1 and had speculated and had thriven1 and that from thence he departed for ,tafilaltz1 which is the country of which the emperor1 even ,muley ,abderrahman1 is a native2 and there he was still prosperous1 and his wealth in gold and silver was very great2 and he wished to go to a not far distant town1 and he engaged certain ,moors1 two in number1 to accompany him and defend him and his treasures3 and the ,moors were strong men1 even makhasniah1 or soldiers2 and they made a covenant with my father1 and they gave him their right hands1 and they swore to spill their blood rather than his should be shed4 ,and my father was encouraged1 and he waxed bold1 and he departed with them1 even with the two false ,moors4 ,and when they arrived in the uninhabited place1 they smote my father1 and they prevailed against him1 and they poured out his blood in the way1 and they robbed him of all he had1 of his silks and his merchandise1 and of the gold and silver which he had made in his speculations1 and they went to their own village1 and there they sat themselves down and bought lands and houses1 and they rejoiced and they triumphed1 and they made a merit of their deed1 saying1 #8,we have killed an infidel1 even an accursed ,jew2' and these things were notorious in ,fez4 ,and when ,i heard these tidings my heart was sad1 and ,i became like a child1 and ,i wept2 but the fire of ,jehinnim burned no longer in my brain1 for ,i now knew what was become of my father4 ,at last ,i took comfort1 and ,i reasoned with myself1 saying1 #8,would it not be wise to go unto the ,moorish king and demand of him vengeance for my father's death1 and that the spoilers be despoiled1 and the treasure1 even my father's treasure1 be wrested from their hands and delivered up to me who am his son8' ,and the king of the ,moors was not at that time in ,fez1 but was absent in his wars2 and ,i arose and followed him1 even unto ,arbat1 #cbb which is a seaport1 and when ,i arrived there1 lo6 ,i found him not1 but his son was there1 and men said unto me1 that to speak unto the son was to speak unto the king1 even ,muley ,abderrahman2 so ,i went in unto the king's son1 and ,i kneeled before him1 and ,i lifted up my voice1 and ,i said unto him what ,i had to say1 and he looked courteously upon me and said1 #8,truly thy tale is a sorrowful one1 and it maketh me sad2 and what thou askest1 that will ,i grant1 and thy father's death shall be avenged1 and the spoilers shall be despoiled2 and ,i will write thee a letter with my own hand unto the ,pasha1 even the ,pasha of ,tafilaltz1 and ,i will enjoin him to make inquiry into thy matter1 and that letter thou shalt thyself carry and deliver unto him4' ,and when ,i heard these words1 my heart died within my bosom for very fear1 and ,i replied1 #8,not so1 my lord2 it is good that thou write a letter unto the ,pasha1 even unto the ,pasha of ,tafilaltz1 but that letter will ,i not take1 neither will ,i go to ,tafilaltz1 for no sooner should ,i arrive there1 and my errand be known1 than the ,moors would arise and put me to death1 either privily or publicly1 for are not the murderers of my father ,moors2 and am ,i aught but a ,jew1 though ,i be a ,polish man8' ,and he looked benignantly1 and he said1 #8,truly1 thou speakest wisely2 ,i will write the letter1 but thou shalt not take it1 for ,i will send it by other hands2 therefore set thy heart at rest1 and doubt not that1 if thy tale be true1 thy father's death shall be avenged1 and the treasure1 or the value thereof1 be recovered and given up to thee2 tell me1 therefore1 where wilt thou abide till then8' ,and ,i said unto him1 #8,my lord1 ,i will go into the land of ,suz and will tarry there4' ,and he replied1 #8,do so1 and thou shalt hear speedily from me4' ,so ,i arose and departed1 and went into the land of ,suz1 even unto ,swirah1 which the ,nazarenes call ,mogadore2 and ,i waited with a troubled heart for intelligence from the son of the ,moorish king1 but no intelligence came1 and never since that day have ,i heard from him1 and it is now three years since ,i was in his presence4 ,and ,i sat me down at ,mogadore1 and ,i married a wife1 a daughter of our nation1 and ,i wrote to my mother1 even to ,jerusalem1 and she sent me money1 and with that ,i entered into commerce1 even as my father had done1 and ,i speculated1 and ,i was not successful in my speculations1 and ,i speedily lost all ,i had4 ,and now ,i am come to ,gibraltar to speculate on the account of another1 a merchant of ,mogadore1 but ,i like not my occupation2 he has deceived me2 ,i am going back1 when ,i shall again seek the presence of the ,moorish king1 and demand that the treasure of my father be taken from the spoilers and delivered up to me1 even to me his son40 ,i listened with mute attention to the singular tale of this singular man1 and when he had concluded ,i remained a considerable time without saying a word4 ,at last he inquired what had brought me to ,gibraltar4 ,i told him that ,i was merely a passer through on my way to ,tangier1 for which place ,i expected to sail the following morning4 ,whereupon he observed1 that in the course of a week or two he expected to be there also1 when he hoped that we should meet1 as he had much more to tell me4 8,and peradventure10 he added1 8you can afford me counsel which will be profitable1 for you are a person of experience1 versed in the ways of many nations2 and when ,i look in your countenance1 heaven seems to open to me1 for ,i think ,i see the countenance of a friend1 even of a brother40 ,he then bade me farewell1 and departed2 the strange bearded man1 who during our conversation had remained patiently waiting at the door1 following him4 ,i remarked that there was less wildness in his look than on the former occasion1 but1 at the same time1 more melancholy1 and his features were wrinkled like those of an aged man1 though he had not yet passed the prime of youth4 ,,chapter ,,liii4 ,genoese ,mariners--,saint ,michael's ,cave--,midnight ,abysses--,young ,american--,a ,slave ,proprietor--,the ,fairy ,man--,infidelity4 ,throughout the whole of that night it blew very hard1 but1 as the wind was in the ,levant quarter1 ,i had no apprehension of being detained longer at ,gibraltar on that account4 ,i went on board the vessel at an early hour1 when ,i found the crew engaged in hauling the anchor close1 and making other preparations for sailing4 ,they informed me that we should probably start in an hour4 ,that time1 however1 passed1 and we still remained where we were1 and the captain continued on shore4 ,we formed one of a small flotilla of ,genoese barks1 the crews of which seemed in their leisure moments to have no better means of amusing themselves than the exchange of abusive language3 a furious fusilade of this kind presently commenced1 in which the mate of our vessel particularly distinguished himself2 he was a grey-haired ,genoese of sixty4 ,though not able to speak their patois1 ,i understood much of what was said4 ,it was truly shocking1 and as they shouted it forth1 judging from their violent gestures and distorted features1 you would have concluded them to be bitter enemies4 ,they were1 however1 nothing of the kind1 but excellent friends all the time1 and indeed very good-humoured fellows at bottom4 ,oh1 the infirmities of human nature6 ,when will man learn to become truly ,christian8 ,i am upon the whole very fond of the ,genoese2 they have1 it is true1 much ribaldry and many vices1 but they are a brave and chivalrous people1 and have ever been so1 and from them ,i have never experienced aught but kindness and hospitality4 ,after the lapse of another two hours1 the ,jew secretary arrived and said something to the old mate1 who grumbled much2 then coming up to me1 he took off his hat and informed me that we were not to start that day1 saying at the same time that it was a shame to lose such a noble wind1 which would carry us to ,tangier in three hours4 8,patience10 said ,i1 and went on shore4 ,i now strolled towards ,st4 ,michael's cave1 in company with the ,jewish lad whom ,i have before mentioned4 ,the way thither does not lie in the same direction as that which leads to the excavations2 these confront ,spain1 whilst the cave yawns in the face of ,africa4 ,it lies nearly at the top of the mountain1 several hundred yards above the sea4 ,we passed by the public walks1 where there are noble trees1 and also by many small houses1 situated delightfully in gardens1 and occupied by the officers of the garrison4 ,it is wrong to suppose ,gibraltar a mere naked barren rock2 it is not without its beautiful spots--spots such as these1 looking cool and refreshing1 with bright green foliage4 ,the path soon became very steep1 and we left behind us the dwellings of man4 ,the gale of the preceding night had entirely ceased1 and not a breath of air was stirring2 the midday sun shone in all its fierce glory1 and the crags up which we clambered were not unfrequently watered with the perspiration drops which rained from our temples3 at length we arrived at the cavern4 ,the mouth is a yawning cleft in the side of the mountain1 about twelve feet high and as many wide2 within there is a very rapid1 precipitous descent for some fifty yards1 where the cavern terminates in an abyss which leads to unknown depths4 ,the most remarkable object is a natural column1 which rises up something like the trunk of an enormous oak1 as if for the purpose of supporting the roof2 it stands at a short distance from the entrance1 and gives a certain air of wildness and singularity to that part of the cavern which is visible1 which it would otherwise not possess4 ,the floor is exceedingly slippery1 consisting of soil which the continual drippings from the roof have saturated1 so that no slight precaution is necessary for him who treads it4 ,it is very dangerous to enter this place without a guide well acquainted with it1 as1 besides the black pit at the extremity1 holes which have never been fathomed present themselves here and there1 falling into which the adventurer would be dashed to pieces4 ,whatever men may please to say of this cave1 one thing it seems to tell to all who approach it1 namely1 that the hand of man has never been busy about it4 ,there is many a cave of nature's forming1 old as the earth on which we exist1 which nevertheless exhibits indications that man has turned it to some account1 and that it has been subjected more or less to his modifying power4 ,not so this cave of ,gibraltar1 for1 judging from its appearance1 there is not the slightest reason for supposing that it ever served for aught else than a den for foul night birds1 reptiles1 and beasts of prey4 ,it has been stated by some to have been used in the days of paganism as a temple to the god ,hercules1 who1 according to the ancient tradition1 raised the singular mass of crags now called ,gibraltar1 and the mountain which confronts it on the ,african shores1 as columns which should say to all succeeding times that he had been there1 and had advanced no further4 ,sufficient to observe1 that there is nothing within the cave which would authorize the adoption of such an opinion1 not even a platform on which an altar could have stood1 whilst a narrow path passes before it1 leading to the summit of the mountain4 ,as ,i have myself never penetrated into its depths1 ,i can of course not pretend to describe them4 ,numerous have been the individuals who1 instigated by curiosity1 have ventured down to immense depths1 hoping to discover an end1 and indeed scarcely a week passes without similar attempts being made either by the officers or soldiers of the garrison1 all of which have proved perfectly abortive4 ,no termination has ever been reached1 nor any discoveries made to repay the labour and frightful danger incurred2 precipice succeeds precipice1 and abyss succeeds abyss1 in apparently endless succession1 with ledges at intervals1 which afford the adventurers opportunities for resting themselves and affixing their rope-ladders for the purpose of descending yet further4 ,what is1 however1 most mortifying and perplexing1 is to observe that these abysses are not only before1 but behind you1 and on every side2 indeed1 close within the entrance of the cave1 on the right1 there is a gulf almost equally dark and full as threatening as that which exists at the nether end1 and perhaps contains within itself as many gulfs and horrid caverns branching off in all directions4 ,indeed1 from what ,i have heard1 ,i have come to the opinion that the whole hill of ,gibraltar is honeycombed1 and ,i have little doubt that1 were it cleft asunder1 its interior would be found full of such abysses of ,erebus as those to which ,saint ,michael's cave conducts4 ,many valuable lives are lost every year in these horrible places2 and only a few weeks before my visit1 two sergeants1 brothers1 had perished in the gulf on the right hand side of the cave1 having1 when at a great depth1 slipped down a precipice4 ,the body of one of these adventurous men is even now rotting in the bowels of the mountain1 preyed upon by its blind and noisome worms2 that of his brother was extricated4 ,immediately after this horrible accident1 a gate was placed before the mouth of the cave1 to prevent individuals1 and especially the reckless soldiers1 from indulging in their extravagant curiosity4 ,the lock1 however1 was speedily forced1 and at the period of my arrival the gate swung idly upon its hinges4 ,as ,i left the place1 ,i thought that perhaps similar to this was the cave of ,horeb1 where dwelt ,elijah1 when he heard the still small voice1 after the great and strong wind which rent the mountains and brake in pieces the rocks before the ,lord2 the cave to the entrance of which he went out and stood with his face wrapped in his mantle1 when he heard the voice say unto him1 8,what doest thou here1 ,elijah80 #ccj ,and what am ,i doing here1 ,i inquired of myself1 as1 vexed at my detention1 ,i descended into the town4 ,that afternoon ,i dined in the company of a young ,american1 a native of ,south ,carolina4 ,i had frequently seen him before1 as he had been staying for some time at the inn previous to my arrival at ,gibraltar4 ,his appearance was remarkable3 he was low of stature1 and exceedingly slightly made2 his features were pale1 but very well formed2 he had a magnificent head of crispy black hair1 and as superb a pair of whiskers of the same colour as ,i ever beheld4 ,he wore a white hat1 with broad brim and particularly shallow crown1 and was dressed in a light yellow gingham frock1 striped with black1 and ample trousers of calico4 ,in a word1 his appearance was altogether queer and singular4 ,on my return from my ramble to the cave1 ,i found that he had himself just descended from the mountain1 having since a very early hour been absent exploring its wonders4 ,a man of the rock asked him how he liked the excavations4 8,liked them80 said he2 8you might just as well ask a person who has just seen the ,niagara ,falls how he liked them--like is not the word1 mister40 ,the heat was suffocating1 as it almost invariably is in the town of ,gibraltar1 where rarely a breath of air is to be felt1 as it is sheltered from all winds4 ,this led another individual to inquire of him whether he did not think it exceedingly hot8 8,hot1 sir80 he replied1 8not at all2 fine cotton-gathering weather as a man could wish for4 ,we couldn't beat it in ,south ,carolina1 sir40 8,you live in ,south ,carolina1 sir--,i hope1 sir1 you are not a slave proprietor10 said the short1 fat ,jewish personage in the snuff-coloured coat1 who had offered me the bitters on a previous occasion2 8it is a terrible thing to make slaves of poor people1 simply because they happen to be black2 don't you think so1 sir80 8,think so1 sir8--no1 sir1 ,i don't think so--,i glory in being a slave proprietor2 have four hundred black niggers on my estate--own estate1 sir1 near ,charleston--flog half a dozen of them before breakfast1 merely for exercise4 ,niggers only made to be flogged1 sir2 try to escape sometimes2 set the bloodhounds in their trail1 catch them in a twinkling2 used to hang themselves formerly--the niggers thought that a sure way to return to their own country and get clear of me2 soon put a stop to that2 told them that if any more hanged themselves ,i'd hang myself too1 follow close behind them1 and flog them in their own country ten times worse than in mine4 ,what do you think of that1 friend80 ,it was easy to perceive that there was more of fun than malice in this eccentric little fellow1 for his large grey eyes were sparkling with good humour whilst he poured out these wild things4 ,he was exceedingly free of his money2 and a dirty ,irish woman1 a soldier's wife1 having entered with a basketful of small boxes and trinkets1 made of portions of the rock of ,gibraltar1 he purchased the greater part of her ware1 giving her for every article the price 7by no means inconsiderable7 which she demanded4 ,he had glanced at me several times1 and at last ,i saw him stoop down and whisper something to the ,jew1 who replied in an undertone1 though with considerable earnestness1 8,oh dear no1 sir2 perfectly mistaken1 sir2 is no ,american1 sir2 from ,salamanca1 sir--the gentleman is a ,salamancan ,spaniard40 ,the waiter at length informed us that he had laid the table1 and that perhaps it would be agreeable to us to dine together3 we instantly assented4 ,i found my new acquaintance in many respects a most agreeable companion3 he soon told me his history4 ,he was a planter1 and1 from what he hinted1 just come to his property4 ,he was part owner of a large vessel which traded between ,charleston and ,gibraltar1 and the yellow fever having just broken out at the former place1 he had determined to take a trip 7his first7 to ,europe in this ship2 having1 as he said1 already visited every state in the ,union1 and seen all that was to be seen there4 ,he described to me1 in a very nave and original manner1 his sensations on passing by ,tarifa1 which was the first walled town he had ever seen4 ,i related to him the history of that place1 to which he listened with great attention4 ,he made divers attempts to learn from me who ,i was1 all of which ,i evaded1 though he seemed fully convinced that ,i was an ,american2 and1 amongst other things1 asked me whether my father had not been ,american consul at ,seville4 ,what1 however1 most perplexed him was my understanding ,moorish and ,gaelic1 which he had heard me speak respectively to the hamles and the ,irish woman1 the latter of whom1 as he said1 had told him that ,i was a fairy man4 ,at last he introduced the subject of religion1 and spoke with much contempt of revelation1 avowing himself a deist3 he was evidently very anxious to hear my opinion1 but here again ,i evaded him1 and contented myself with asking him whether he had ever read the ,bible4 ,he said he had not1 but that he was well acquainted with the writings of ,volney and ,mirabeau4 ,i made no answer1 whereupon he added1 that it was by no means his habit to introduce such subjects1 and that there were very few persons to whom he would speak so unreservedly1 but that ,i had very much interested him1 though our acquaintance had been short4 ,i replied1 that he would scarcely have spoken at ,boston in the manner that ,i had just heard him1 and that it was easy to perceive that he was not a ,new ,englander4 8,i assure you10 said he1 8,i should as little have thought of speaking so at ,charleston1 for if ,i held such conversation there1 ,i should soon have had to speak to myself40 ,had ,i known less of deists than it has been my fortune to know1 ,i should perhaps have endeavoured to convince this young man of the erroneousness of the ideas which he had adopted2 but ,i was aware of all that he would have urged in reply1 and1 as the believer has no carnal arguments to address to carnal reason upon this subject1 ,i thought it best to avoid disputation1 which ,i felt sure would lead to no profitable result4 ,faith is the free gift of ,god1 and ,i do not believe that ever yet was an infidel converted by means of after-dinner polemics4 ,this was the last evening of my sojourn in ,gibraltar4 ,,chapter ,,liv4 ,again on ,board--,the ,strange ,visage--,the ,haji--,setting ,sail--,the ,two ,jews--,american ,vessel--,tangier--,adun ,oulem--,the ,struggle--,the ,forbidden ,thing4 ,on ,thursday1 the #hth of ,august1 ,i was again on board the ,genoese bark1 at as early an hour as on the previous morning4 ,after waiting1 however1 two or three hours without any preparation being made for departing1 ,i was about to return to the shore once more1 but the old ,genoese mate advised me to stay1 assuring me that he had no doubt of our sailing speedily1 as all the cargo was on board1 and we had nothing further to detain us4 ,i was reposing myself in the little cabin1 when ,i heard a boat strike against the side of the vessel1 and some people come on board4 ,presently a face peered in at the opening1 strange and wild4 ,i was half asleep1 and at first imagined ,i was dreaming1 for the face seemed more like that of a goat or an ogre than of a human being2 its long beard almost touching my face as ,i lay extended in a kind of berth4 ,starting up1 however1 ,i recognized the singular-looking ,jew whom ,i had seen in the company of ,judah ,lib4 ,he recognized me also1 and nodding1 bent his huge features into a smile4 ,i arose and went upon deck1 where ,i found him in company with another ,jew1 a young man in the dress of ,barbary4 ,they had just arrived in the boat4 ,i asked my friend of the beard who he was1 from whence he came1 and where he was going8 ,he answered1 in broken ,portuguese1 that he was returning from ,lisbon1 where he had been on business1 to ,mogadore1 of which place he was a native4 ,he then looked me in the face and smiled1 and taking out a book from his pocket1 in ,hebrew characters1 fell to reading it2 whereupon a ,spanish sailor on board observed that with such a beard and book he must needs be a sabio1 or sage4 ,his companion was from ,mequinez1 and spoke only ,arabic4 ,a large boat now drew nigh1 the stern of which was filled with ,moors2 there might be about twelve1 and the greater part evidently consisted of persons of distinction1 as they were dressed in all the pomp and gallantry of the ,east1 with snow-white turbans1 jabadores of green silk or scarlet cloth1 and bedeyas rich with gold galloon4 ,some of them were exceedingly fine men1 and two amongst them1 youths1 were strikingly handsome1 and1 so far from exhibiting the dark swarthy countenance of ,moors in general1 their complexions were of a delicate red and white4 ,the principal personage1 and to whom all the rest paid much deference1 was a tall athletic man of about forty4 ,he wore a vest of white quilted cotton1 and white kandrisa1 whilst gracefully wound round his body1 and swathing the upper part of his head1 was the haik1 or white flannel wrapping plaid1 always held in so much estimation by the ,moors from the earliest period of their history4 ,his legs were bare1 and his feet only protected from the ground by yellow slippers4 ,he displayed no further ornament than one large gold earring1 from which depended a pearl1 evidently of great price4 ,a noble black beard1 about a foot in length1 touched his muscular breast4 ,his features were good1 with the exception of the eyes1 which were somewhat small2 their expression1 however1 was evil2 their glances were sullen2 and malignity and ill-nature were painted in every lineament of his countenance1 which seemed never to have been brightened with a smile4 ,the ,spanish sailor1 of whom ,i have already had occasion to speak1 informed me in a whisper1 that he was a santurron1 #ccg or big saint1 and was so far back on his way from ,mecca1 adding1 that he was a merchant of immense wealth4 ,it soon appeared that the other ,moors had merely attended him on board through friendly politeness1 as they all successively came to bid him adieu1 with the exception of two blacks1 who were his attendants4 ,i observed that these blacks1 when the ,moors presented them their hands at departing1 invariably made an effort to press them to their lips1 which effort was as uniformly foiled1 the ,moors in every instance1 by a speedy and graceful movement1 drawing back their hand locked in that of the black1 which they pressed against their own heart2 as much as to say1 8though a negro and a slave you are a ,moslem1 and being so1 you are our brother--,allah knows no distinctions40 ,the boatman now went up to the haji1 demanding payment1 stating1 at the same time1 that he had been on board three times on his account1 conveying his luggage4 ,the sum which he demanded appeared exorbitant to the haji1 who1 forgetting that he was a saint1 and fresh from ,mecca1 fumed outrageously1 and in broken ,spanish called the boatman thief4 ,if there be any term of reproach which stings a ,spaniard 7and such was the boatman7 more than another1 it is that one2 and the fellow no sooner heard it applied to himself1 than1 with eyes sparkling with fury1 he put his fist to the haji's nose1 and repaid the one opprobrious name by at least ten others equally bad or worse4 ,he would perhaps have proceeded to acts of violence had he not been pulled away by the other ,moors1 who led him aside1 and ,i suppose either said or gave him something which pacified him1 as he soon got into his boat1 and returned with them on shore4 ,the captain now arrived with his ,jewish secretary1 and orders were given for setting sail4 ,at a little past twelve we were steering out of the bay of ,gibraltar4 ,the wind was in the right quarter1 but for some time we did not make much progress1 lying almost becalmed beneath the lee of the hill2 by degrees1 however1 our progress became brisker1 and in about an hour we found ourselves careering smartly towards ,tarifa4 ,the ,jew secretary stood at the helm1 and indeed appeared to be the person who commanded the vessel1 and who issued out all the necessary orders1 which were executed under the superintendence of the old ,genoese mate4 ,i now put some questions to the haji1 but he looked at me askance with his sullen eye1 pouted with his lip1 and remained silent2 as much as to say1 8,speak not to me1 ,i am holier than thou40 ,i found his negroes1 however1 far more conversable4 ,one of them was old and ugly1 the other about twenty1 and as well-looking as it is possible for a negro to be4 ,his colour was perfect ebony1 his features exceedingly well-formed and delicate1 with the exception of the lips1 which were too full4 ,the shape of his eyes was peculiar2 they were rather oblong than round1 like those of an ,egyptian figure4 ,their expression was thoughtful and meditative4 ,in every respect he differed from his companion1 even in colour 7though both were negroes71 and was evidently a scion of some little-known and superior race4 ,as he sat beneath the mast gazing at the sea1 ,i thought he was misplaced1 and that he would have appeared to more advantage amidst boundless sands1 and beneath a date-tree1 and then he might have well represented a ,jin4 ,i asked him from whence he came2 he replied that he was a native of ,fez1 but that he had never known his parents4 ,he had been brought up1 he added1 in the family of his present master1 whom he had followed in the greater part of his travels1 and with whom he had thrice visited ,mecca4 ,i asked him if he liked being a slave8 ,whereupon he replied1 that he was a slave no longer1 having been made free for some time past1 on account of his faithful services1 as had likewise his companion4 ,he would have told me much more1 but the haji called him away1 and otherwise employed him1 probably to prevent his being contaminated by me4 ,thus1 avoided by the ,moslems1 ,i betook myself to the ,jews1 whom ,i found nowise backward in cultivating an intimacy4 ,the sage of the beard told me his history1 which in some respects reminded me of that of ,judah ,lib1 as it seemed that1 a year or two previous1 he had quitted ,mogadore in pursuit of his son1 who had betaken himself to ,portugal4 ,on the arrival1 however1 of the father at ,lisbon1 he discovered that the fugitive had1 a few days before1 shipped himself for the ,brazils4 ,unlike ,judah in quest of his father1 he now became weary1 and discontinued the pursuit4 ,the younger ,jew from ,mequinez was exceedingly gay and lively as soon as he perceived that ,i was capable of understanding him1 and made me smile by his humorous account of ,christian life1 as he had observed it at ,gibraltar1 where he had made a stay of about a month4 ,he then spoke of ,mequinez1 which1 he said1 was a ,jennut1 or ,paradise1 compared with which ,gibraltar was a sty of hogs4 ,so great1 so universal is the love of country4 ,i soon saw that both these people believed me to be of their own nation3 indeed1 the young one1 who was much the most familiar1 taxed me with being so1 and spoke of the infamy of denying my own blood4 ,shortly before our arrival off ,tarifa1 universal hunger seemed to prevail amongst us4 ,the haji and his negroes produced their store1 and feasted on roast fowls1 the ,jews ate grapes and bread1 myself bread and cheese1 whilst the crew prepared a mess of anchovies4 ,two of them speedily came with a large portion1 which they presented to me with the kindness of brothers3 ,i made no hesitation in accepting their present1 and found the anchovies delicious4 ,as ,i sat between the ,jews1 ,i offered them some1 but they turned away their heads with disgust1 and cried1 ,haloof4 ,they at the same time1 however1 shook me by the hand1 and1 uninvited1 took a small portion of my bread4 ,i had a bottle of ,cognac1 which ,i had brought with me as a preventive to sea-sickness1 and ,i presented it to them2 but this they also refused1 exclaiming1 ,harm4 ,i said nothing4 ,we were now close to the lighthouse of ,tarifa1 and turning the head of the bark towards the west1 we made directly for the coast of ,africa4 ,the wind was now blowing very fresh1 and as we had it almost in our poop1 we sprang along at a tremendous rate1 the huge latine sails threatening every moment to drive us beneath the billows1 which an adverse tide raised up against us4 ,whilst scudding along in this manner1 we passed close under the stern of a large vessel bearing ,american colours2 she was tacking up the straits1 and slowly winning her way against the impetuous ,levanter4 ,as we passed under her1 ,i observed the poop crowded with people gazing at us2 indeed1 we must have offered a singular spectacle to those on board1 who1 like my young ,american friend at ,gibraltar1 were visiting the ,old ,world for the first time4 ,at the helm stood the ,jew2 his whole figure enveloped in a gabardine1 the cowl of which1 raised above his head1 gave him almost the appearance of a spectre in its shroud2 whilst upon the deck1 mixed with ,europeans in various kinds of dresses1 all of them picturesque with the exception of my own1 trod the turbaned ,moors1 the haik of the haji flapping loosely in the wind4 ,the view they obtained of us1 however1 could have been but momentary1 as we bounded past them literally with the speed of a racehorse1 so that in about an hour's time we were not more than a mile's distance from the foreland on which stands the fortress ,alminr1 and which constitutes the boundary point of the bay of ,tangier towards the east4 ,there the wind dropped and our progress was again slow4 ,for a considerable time ,tangier had appeared in sight4 ,shortly after standing away from ,tarifa1 we had descried it in the far distance1 when it showed like a white dove brooding on its nest4 ,the sun was setting behind the town when we dropped anchor in its harbour1 amidst half a dozen barks and felouks about the size of our own1 the only vessels which we saw4 ,there stood ,tangier before us1 and a picturesque town it was1 occupying the sides and top of two hills1 one of which1 bold and bluff1 projects into the sea where the coast takes a sudden and abrupt turn4 ,frowning and battlemented were its walls1 either perched on the top of precipitous rocks1 whose base was washed by the salt billows1 or rising from the narrow strand which separates the hill from the ocean4 ,yonder are two or three tiers of batteries1 displaying heavy guns1 which command the harbour2 above them you see the terraces of the town rising in succession like steps for giants4 ,but all is white1 perfectly white1 so that the whole seems cut out of an immense chalk rock1 though true it is that you behold here and there tall green trees springing up from amidst the whiteness3 perhaps they belong to ,moorish gardens1 and beneath them even now peradventure is reclining many a dark-eyed ,leila1 akin to the houris4 ,right before you is a high tower1 or minaret1 not white but curiously painted1 which belongs to the principal mosque of ,tangier2 a black banner waves upon it1 for it is the feast of ,ashor4 ,a noble beach of white sand fringes the bay from the town to the foreland of ,alminr4 ,to the east rise prodigious hills and mountains3 they are ,gibil ,muza and his chain2 and yon tall fellow is the peak of ,tetuan2 the grey mists of evening are enveloping their sides4 ,such was ,tangier1 such its vicinity1 as it appeared to me whilst gazing from the ,genoese bark4 ,a boat was now lowered from the vessel1 in which the captain1 who was charged with the mail from ,gibraltar1 the ,jew secretary1 and the haji and his attendant negroes departed for the shore4 ,i would have gone with them1 but ,i was told that ,i could not land that night1 as ere my passport and bill of health could be examined1 the gates would be closed2 so ,i remained on board with the crew and the two ,jews4 ,the former prepared their supper1 which consisted simply of pickled tomates1 #cdc;a the other provisions having been consumed4 ,the old ,genoese brought me a portion1 apologizing at the same time for the plainness of the fare4 ,i accepted it with thanks1 and told him that a million better men than myself had a worse supper4 ,i never ate with more appetite4 ,as the night advanced1 the ,jews sang ,hebrew hymns1 and when they had concluded1 demanded of me why ,i was silent1 so ,i lifted up my voice and chanted ,adun ,oulem4 #cdc;b ,darkness had now fallen over land and sea3 not a sound was heard save occasionally the distant barking of a dog from the shore1 or some plaintive ,genoese ditty1 which arose from a neighbouring bark4 ,the town seemed buried in silence and gloom1 no light1 not even that of a taper1 could be descried4 ,turning our eyes in the direction of ,spain1 however1 we perceived a magnificent conflagration1 seemingly enveloping the side and head of one of the lofty mountains northward of ,tarifa4 ,the blaze was redly reflected in the waters of the strait2 either the brushwood was burning or the carboneros were plying their dusky toil4 ,the ,jews now complained of weariness1 and the younger1 uncording a small mattress1 spread it on the deck and sought repose4 ,the sage descended into the cabin1 but he had scarcely time to lie down ere the old mate1 darting forward1 dived in after him1 and pulled him out by the heels1 for it was very shallow1 and the descent was effected by not more than two or three steps4 ,after accomplishing this1 he called him many opprobrious names1 and threatened him with his foot1 as he lay sprawling on the deck4 8,think you10 said he1 8who are a dog and a ,jew1 and pay as a dog and a ,jew2 think you to sleep in the cabin8 ,undeceive yourself1 beast3 that cabin shall be slept in by none to-night but this ,christian caballero40 ,the sage made no reply1 but arose from the deck and stroked his beard1 whilst the old ,genoese proceeded in his ,philippic4 ,had the ,jew been disposed1 he could have strangled the insulter in a moment1 or crushed him to death in his brawny arms1 as ,i never remember to have seen a figure so powerful and muscular2 but he was evidently slow to anger1 and long-suffering4 ,not a resentful word escaped him1 and his features retained their usual expression of benignant placidity4 ,i now assured the mate that ,i had not the slightest objection to the ,jew's sharing the cabin with me1 but rather wished it1 as there was room for us both and for more4 8,excuse me1 ,sir ,cavalier10 replied the ,genoese1 8but ,i swear to permit no such thing2 you are young1 and do not know this canaille as ,i do1 who have been backward and forward to this coast for twenty years4 ,if the beast is cold1 let him sleep below the hatches as ,i and the rest shall1 but that cabin he shall not enter40 ,observing that he was obstinate1 ,i retired1 and in a few minutes was in a sound sleep1 which lasted till daybreak4 ,twice or thrice1 indeed1 ,i thought that a struggle was taking place near me2 but ,i was so overpowered with weariness1 or 8sleep drunken10 as the ,germans call it1 that ,i was unable to arouse myself sufficiently to discover what was going on4 ,the truth is1 that three times during the night1 the sage1 feeling himself uncomfortable in the open air by the side of his companion1 penetrated into the cabin1 and was as many times dragged out by his relentless old enemy1 who1 suspecting his intentions1 kept his eye upon him throughout the night4 ,about five ,i arose3 the sun was shining brightly and gloriously upon town1 bay1 and mountain2 the crew were already employed upon deck repairing a sail which had been shivered in the wind of the preceding day4 ,the ,jews sat disconsolate on the poop2 they complained much of the cold they had suffered in their exposed situation4 ,over the left eye of the sage ,i observed a bloody cut1 which he informed me he had received from the old ,genoese after he had dragged him out of the cabin for the last time4 ,i now produced my bottle of ,cognac1 begging that the crew would partake of it as a slight return for their hospitality4 ,they thanked me1 and the bottle went its round2 it was last in the hands of the old mate1 who1 after looking for a moment at the sage1 raised it to his mouth1 where he kept it a considerable time longer than any of his companions1 after which he returned it to me with a low bow4 ,the sage now inquired what the bottle contained4 ,i told him ,cognac1 or aguardiente1 whereupon with some eagerness he begged that ,i would allow him to take a draught4 8,how is this80 said ,i2 8yesterday you told me that it was a forbidden thing1 an abomination40 8,yesterday10 said he1 8,i was not aware that it was brandy2 ,i thought it was wine1 which assuredly is an abomination1 and a forbidden thing40 8,is it forbidden in the ,torah80 ,i inquired4 8,is it forbidden in the law of ,god80 8,i know not10 said he2 8but one thing ,i know1 that the sages have forbidden it40 8,sages like yourself10 cried ,i with warmth2 8sages like yourself1 with long beards and short understandings2 the use of both drinks is permitted1 but more danger lurks in this bottle than in a tun of wine4 ,well said my ,lord the ,nazarene1 #8ye strain at a gnat1 and swallow a camel2' but as you are cold and shivering1 take the bottle and revive yourself with a small portion of its contents40 ,he put it to his lips and found not a single drop4 ,the old ,genoese grinned4 8,bestia10 said he1 8,i saw by your looks that you wished to drink of that bottle1 and ,i said within me1 even though ,i suffocate1 yet will ,i not leave one drop of the aguardiente of the ,christian ,cavalier to be wasted on that ,jew1 on whose head may evil lightnings fall40 8,now1 ,sir ,cavalier10 he continued1 8you can go ashore3 these two sailors shall row you to the ,mole1 and convey your baggage where you think proper2 may the ,virgin bless you wherever you go40 ,,chapter ,,lv4 ,the ,mole--,the ,two ,moors--,djmah of ,tangier--,house of ,god--,british ,consul--,curious ,spectacle--,the ,moorish ,house--,joanna ,correa--,ave ,maria4 ,so we rowed to the ,mole1 and landed4 ,this ,mole consists at present of nothing more than an immense number of large loose stones1 which run about five hundred yards into the bay2 they are part of the ruins of a magnificent pier which the ,english1 who were the last foreign nation which held ,tangier1 destroyed when they evacuated the place4 #cdh ,the ,moors have never attempted to repair it3 the surf at high water breaks over it with great fury4 ,i found it a difficult task to pick my way over the slippery stones1 and should once or twice have fallen but for the kindness of the ,genoese mariners4 ,at last we reached the beach1 and were proceeding towards the gate of the town1 when two persons1 ,moors1 came up to us4 ,i almost started at sight of the first3 he was a huge old barbarian with a white uncombed beard1 dirty turban1 haik1 and trousers1 naked legs1 and immense splay feet1 the heels of which stood out a couple of inches at least behind his rusty black slippers4 8,that is the captain of the port10 said one of the ,genoese2 8pay him respect40 ,i accordingly doffed my hat and cried1 8,sba alkheir a sidi40 #cdi 8,are you ,englishmans80 shouted the old grisly giant4 8,englishmans1 my lord10 ,i replied1 and1 advancing1 presented him my hand1 which he nearly wrung off with his tremendous gripe4 ,the other ,moor now addressed me in a jargon composed of ,english1 ,spanish1 and ,arabic4 ,a queer-looking personage was he also1 but very different in most respects from his companion1 being shorter by a head at least1 and less complete by one eye1 for the left orb of vision was closed1 leaving him1 as the ,spaniards style it1 tuerto2 he1 however1 far outshone the other in cleanliness of turban1 haik1 and trousers4 ,from what he jabbered to me1 ,i collected that he was the ,english consul's mahasni1 or soldier2 that the consul1 being aware of my arrival1 had despatched him to conduct me to his house4 ,he then motioned me to follow him1 which ,i did1 the old port-captain attending us to the gate1 when he turned aside into a building1 which ,i judged to be a kind of custom-house from the bales and boxes of every description piled up before it4 ,we passed the gate and proceeded up a steep and winding ascent4 ,on our left was a battery full of guns1 pointing to the sea1 and on our right a massive wall1 seemingly in part cut out of the hill3 a little higher up we arrived at an opening where stood the mosque which ,i have already mentioned4 ,as ,i gazed upon the tower ,i said to myself1 8,surely we have here a younger sister of the ,giralda of ,seville40 ,i know not whether the resemblance between the two edifices has been observed by any other individual2 and perhaps there are those who would assert that no resemblance exists1 especially if1 in forming an opinion1 they were much swayed by size and colour3 the hue of the ,giralda is red1 or rather vermilion1 whilst that which predominates in the ,djmah of ,tangier is green1 the bricks of which it is built being of that colour2 though between them1 at certain intervals1 are placed others of a light red tinge1 so that the tower is beautifully variegated4 ,with respect to size1 standing beside the giant witch of ,seville1 the ,tangerine ,djmah would show like a ten-year sapling in the vicinity of the cedar of ,lebanon1 whose trunk the tempests of five hundred years have worn4 ,and yet ,i will assert that the towers in other respects are one and the same1 and that the same mind and the same design are manifested in both2 the same shape do they exhibit1 and the same marks have they on their walls1 even those mysterious arches graven on the superfice of the bricks1 emblematic of ,i know not what4 ,the two structures may1 without any violence1 be said to stand in the same relation to each other as the ancient and modern ,moors4 ,the ,giralda is the world's wonder1 and the old ,moor was all but the world's conqueror4 ,the modern ,moor is scarcely known1 and who ever heard of the tower of ,tangier8 ,yet examine it attentively1 and you will find in that tower much1 very much1 to admire1 and certainly1 if opportunity enable you to consider the modern ,moor minutely1 you will discover in him1 and in his actions1 amongst much that is wild1 uncouth1 and barbarous1 not a little capable of amply rewarding laborious investigation4 ,as we passed the mosque ,i stopped for a moment before the door1 and looked in upon the interior3 ,i saw nothing but a quadrangular court paved with painted tiles and exposed to the sky2 on all sides were arched piazzas1 and in the middle was a fountain1 at which several ,moors were performing their ablutions4 ,i looked around for the abominable thing and found it not2 the besetting sin of the pseudo-,christian ,church did not stare me in the face in every corner4 8,come here10 said ,i1 8,papist1 and take a lesson2 here is a house of ,god1 in externals at least1 such as a house of ,god should be3 four walls1 a fountain1 and the eternal firmament above1 which mirrors ,his glory4 ,dost thou build such houses to the ,god who has said1 #8,thou shalt make to thyself no graven image'8 ,fool1 thy walls are stuck with idols2 thou callest a stone thy ,father1 and a piece of rotting wood the ,queen of ,heaven4 ,fool1 thou knowest not even the ,ancient of ,days1 and the very ,moor can instruct thee4 ,he at least knows the ,ancient of ,days who has said1 #8,thou shalt have no other gods but me4'0 ,and as ,i said these words ,i heard a cry like the roaring of a lion1 and an awful voice in the distance exclaim1 8,kapul ,udbagh40 #cea ,we now turned to the left through a passage which passed under the tower1 and had scarcely proceeded a few steps1 when ,i heard a prodigious hubbub of infantine voices3 ,i listened for a moment1 and distinguished verses of the ,koran2 it was a school4 ,another lesson for thee1 ,papist4 ,thou callest thyself a ,christian1 yet the book of ,christ thou persecutest2 thou huntest it even to the seashore1 compelling it to seek refuge upon the billows of the sea4 ,fool1 learn a lesson from the ,moor1 who teaches his child to repeat with its first accents the most important portions of the book of his law1 and considers himself wise or foolish1 according as he is versed in or ignorant of that book2 whilst thou1 blind slave1 knowest not what the book of thy own law contains1 nor wishest to know3 yet art thou not to be judged by thy own law8 ,idol-monger1 learn consistency from the ,moor3 he says that he shall be judged after his own law1 and therefore he prizes and gets by heart the entire book of his law4 ,we were now at the consul's house1 a large roomy habitation1 built in the ,english style4 ,the soldier led me through a court into a large hall hung with the skins of all kinds of ferocious animals1 from the kingly lion to the snarling jackal4 ,here ,i was received by a ,jew domestic1 who conducted me at once to the consul1 who was in his library4 ,he received me with the utmost frankness and genuine kindness1 and informed me that1 having received a letter from his excellent friend ,mr4 ,b---1 in which ,i was strongly recommended1 he had already engaged me a lodging in the house of a ,spanish woman1 who was1 however1 a ,british subject1 and with whom he believed that ,i should find myself as comfortable as it was possible to be in such a place as ,tangier4 ,he then inquired if ,i had any particular motive for visiting the place1 and ,i informed him without hesitation that ,i came with the intention of distributing a certain number of copies of the ,new ,testament in the ,spanish language amongst the ,christian residents of the place4 ,he smiled1 and advised me to proceed with considerable caution1 which ,i promised to do4 ,we then discoursed on other subjects1 and it was not long before ,i perceived that ,i was in the company of a most accomplished scholar1 especially in the ,greek and ,latin classics2 he appeared likewise to be thoroughly acquainted with the ,barbary empire and with the ,moorish character4 ,after half an hour's conversation1 exceedingly agreeable and instructive to myself1 ,i expressed a wish to proceed to my lodging2 whereupon he rang the bell1 and1 the same ,jewish domestic entering who had introduced me1 he said to him in the ,english language1 8,take this gentleman to the house of ,joanna ,correa1 the ,mahonese widow1 and enjoin her1 in my name1 to take care of him and attend to his comforts2 by doing which she will confirm me in the good opinion which ,i at present entertain of her1 and will increase my disposition to befriend her40 ,so1 attended by the ,jew1 ,i now bent my steps to the lodging prepared for me4 ,having ascended the street in which the house of the consul was situated1 we entered a small square which stands about half way up the hill4 ,this1 my companion informed me1 was the soc1 or market-place4 ,a curious spectacle here presented itself4 ,all round the square were small wooden booths1 which very much resembled large boxes turned on their sides1 the lid being supported above by a string4 ,before each of these boxes was a species of counter1 or rather one long counter ran in front of the whole line1 upon which were raisins1 dates1 and small barrels of sugar1 soap1 and butter1 and various other articles4 ,within each box1 in front of the counter1 and about three feet from the ground1 sat a human being1 with a blanket on its shoulders1 a dirty turban on its head1 and ragged trousers1 which descended as far as the knee1 though in some instances1 ,i believe1 these were entirely dispensed with4 ,in its hand it held a stick1 to the end of which was affixed a bunch of palm leaves1 which it waved incessantly as a fan1 for the purpose of scaring from its goods the million flies which1 engendered by the ,barbary sun1 endeavoured to settle upon them4 ,behind it1 and on either side1 were piles of the same kind of goods4 ,shrit hinai1 shrit hinai1 #ced was continually proceeding from its mouth4 ,such are the grocers of ,tangier1 such their shops4 ,in the middle of the soc1 upon the stones1 were pyramids of melons and sandias1 and also baskets filled with other kinds of fruit1 exposed for sale1 whilst round cakes of bread were lying here and there upon the stones1 beside which sat on their hams the wildest-looking beings that the most extravagant imagination ever conceived1 the head covered with an enormous straw hat1 at least two yards in circumference1 the eaves of which1 flapping down1 completely concealed the face1 whilst the form was swathed in a blanket1 from which occasionally were thrust skinny arms and fingers4 ,these were ,moorish women1 who were1 ,i believe1 in all instances1 old and ugly1 judging from the countenances of which ,i caught a glimpse as they lifted the eaves of their hats to gaze on me as ,i passed1 or to curse me for stamping on their bread4 ,the whole soc was full of people1 and there was abundance of bustle1 screaming1 and vociferation1 and as the sun1 though the hour was still early1 was shining with the greatest brilliancy1 ,i thought that ,i had scarcely ever witnessed a livelier scene4 ,crossing the soc1 we entered a narrow street with the same kind of box-shops on each side1 some of which1 however1 were either unoccupied or not yet opened1 the lid being closed4 ,we almost immediately turned to the left1 up a street somewhat similar1 and my guide presently entered the door of a low house which stood at the corner of a little alley1 and which he informed me was the abode of ,joanna ,correa4 ,we soon stood in the midst of this habitation4 ,i say the midst1 as all the ,moorish houses are built with a small court in the middle4 ,this one was not more than ten feet square4 ,it was open at the top1 and around it on three sides were apartments3 on the fourth a small staircase1 which communicated with the upper story1 half of which consisted of a terrace looking down into the court1 over the low walls of which you enjoyed a prospect of the sea and a considerable part of the town4 ,the rest of the story was taken up by a long room1 destined for myself1 and which opened upon the terrace by a pair of folding-doors4 ,at either end of this apartment stood a bed1 extending transversely from wall to wall1 the canopy touching the ceiling4 ,a table and two or three chairs completed the furniture4 ,i was so occupied in inspecting the house of ,joanna ,correa1 that at first ,i paid little attention to that lady herself4 ,she now1 however1 came up upon the terrace where my guide and myself were standing4 ,she was a woman about five and forty1 with regular features1 which had once been handsome1 but had received considerable injury from time1 and perhaps more from trouble4 ,two of her front teeth had disappeared1 but she still had fine black hair4 ,as ,i looked upon her countenance1 ,i said within myself1 if there be truth in physiognomy1 thou art good and gentle1 ,o ,joanna2 and1 indeed1 the kindness ,i experienced from her during the six weeks which ,i spent beneath her roof would have made me a convert to that science had ,i doubted in it before4 ,i believe no warmer and more affectionate heart ever beat in human bosom than in that of ,joanna ,correa1 the ,mahonese widow1 and it was indexed by features beaming with benevolence and good nature1 though somewhat clouded with melancholy4 ,she informed me that she had been married to a ,genoese1 the master of a felouk which passed between ,gibraltar and ,tangier1 who had been dead about four years1 leaving her with a family of four children1 the eldest of which was a lad of thirteen2 that she had experienced great difficulty in providing for her family and herself since the death of her husband1 but that ,providence had raised her up a few excellent friends1 especially the ,british consul2 that besides letting lodgings to such travellers as myself1 she made bread which was in high esteem with the ,moors1 and that she was likewise in partnership in the sale of liquors with an old ,genoese4 ,she added that this last person lived below in one of the apartments2 that he was a man of great ability and much learning1 but that she believed he was occasionally somewhat touched here1 pointing with her finger to her forehead1 and she therefore hoped that ,i would not be offended at anything extraordinary in his language or behaviour4 ,she then left me1 as she said1 to give orders for my breakfast2 whereupon the ,jewish domestic1 who had accompanied me from the consul1 finding that ,i was established in the house1 departed4 ,i speedily sat down to breakfast in an apartment on the left side of the little wustuddur2 the fare was excellent3 tea1 fried fish1 eggs1 and grapes1 not forgetting the celebrated bread of ,joanna ,correa4 ,i was waited upon by a tall ,jewish youth of about twenty years1 who informed me that his name was ,hayim ,ben ,attar1 #ceg;a that he was a native of ,fez1 from whence his parents brought him at a very early age to ,tangier1 where he had passed the greater part of his life principally in the service of ,joanna ,correa1 waiting upon those who1 like myself1 lodged in the house4 ,i had completed my meal1 and was seated in the little court1 when ,i heard in the apartment opposite to that in which ,i had breakfasted several sighs1 which were succeeded by as many groans1 and then came ,ave ,maria1 grati plena1 ora pro me1 #ceg;b and finally a croaking voice chanted-- 8,gentem auferte perfidam ,credentium de finibus1 ,ut ,christo laudes debitas ,persolvamus alacriter40 #ceg;c 8,that is the old ,genoese10 whispered ,hayim ,ben ,attar1 8praying to his ,god1 which he always does with particular devotion when he happens to have gone to bed the preceding evening rather in liquor4 ,he has in his room a picture of ,maria ,buckra1 before which he generally burns a taper1 and on her account he will never permit me to enter his apartment4 ,he once caught me looking at her1 and ,i thought he would have killed me2 and since then he always keeps his chamber locked1 and carries the key in his pocket when he goes out4 ,he hates both ,jew and ,moor1 and says that he is now living amongst them for his sins40 8,they do not place tapers before pictures10 said ,i1 and strolled forth to see the wonders of the land4 ,,chapter ,,lvi4 ,the ,mahasni--,sin ,samani--,the ,bazaar--,moorish ,saints--,see the ,ayana6--,the ,prickly ,fig--,jewish ,graves--,the ,place of ,carcases--,the ,stable ,boy--,horses of the ,moslem--,dar-dwag4 ,i was standing in the market-place1 a spectator of much the same scene as ,i have already described1 when a ,moor came up to me and attempted to utter a few words in ,spanish4 ,he was a tall elderly man1 with sharp but rather whimsical features1 and might have been called good looking1 had he not been one-eyed1 a very common deformity in this country4 #cei ,his body was swathed in an immense haik4 ,finding that ,i could understand ,moorish1 he instantly began talking with immense volubility1 and ,i soon learnt that he was a mahasni4 ,he expatiated diffusely on the beauties of ,tangier1 of which he said he was a native1 and at last exclaimed1 8,come1 my sultan1 come1 my lord1 and ,i will show you many things which will gladden your eyes1 and fill your heart with sunshine2 it were a shame in me1 who have the advantage of being a son of ,tangier1 to permit a stranger1 who comes from an island in the great sea1 as you tell me you do1 for the purpose of seeing this blessed land1 to stand here in the soc with no one to guide him4 ,by ,allah1 it shall not be so4 ,make room for my sultan1 make room for my lord10 he continued1 pushing his way through a crowd of men and children who had gathered round us2 8it is his highness' pleasure to go with me4 ,this way1 my lord1 this way20 and he led the way up the hill1 walking at a tremendous rate1 and talking still faster4 8,this street10 said he1 8is the ,siarrin1 and its like is not to be found in ,tangier2 observe how broad it is1 even half the breadth of the soc itself2 here are the shops of the most considerable merchants1 where are sold precious articles of all kinds4 ,observe those two men1 they are ,algerines and good ,moslems2 they fled from ,zair #cfj when the ,nazarenes conquered it1 not by force of fighting1 not by valour1 as you may well suppose1 but by gold2 the ,nazarenes only conquer by gold4 ,the ,moor is good1 the ,moor is strong1 who so good and strong8 but he fights not with gold1 and therefore he lost ,zair4 8,observe you those men seated on the benches by those portals2 they are mokhasniah1 they are my brethren4 ,see their haiks how white1 see their turbans how white4 ,oh that you could see their swords in the day of war1 for bright1 bright are their swords6 ,now they bear no swords4 ,wherefore should they8 is there not peace in the land8 ,see you him in the shop opposite8 ,that is the ,pasha of ,tangier1 that is the ,hamed ,sin ,samani1 the under ,pasha of ,tangier2 the elder ,pasha1 my lord1 is away on a journey2 may ,allah send him a safe return4 ,yes1 that is ,hamed2 he sits in his hanutz as were he nought more than a merchant1 yet life and death are in his hands4 ,there he dispenses justice1 even as he dispenses the essence of the rose and cochineal1 and powder of cannon and sulphur2 and these two last he sells on the account of ,abderrahman1 my lord and sultan1 for none can sell powder and the sulphur dust in his land but the sultan4 ,should you wish to purchase attar del nuar1 #cfa should you wish to purchase the essence of the rose1 you must go to the hanutz of ,sin ,samani1 for there only you will get it pure3 you must receive it from no common ,moor1 but only from ,hamed4 ,may ,allah bless ,hamed4 ,the makhasniah1 my brethren1 wait to do his orders1 for wherever sits the ,pasha1 there is a hall of judgment4 ,see1 now we are opposite the bazaar2 beneath yon gate is the court of the bazaar2 what will you not find in that bazaar8 ,silks from ,fez you will find there3 and if you wish for sibat1 if you wish for slippers for your feet1 you must seek them there1 and there also are sold curious things from the towns of the ,nazarenes4 ,those large houses on our left are habitations of ,nazarene consuls2 you have seen many such in your own land1 therefore why should you stay to look at them8 ,do you not admire this street of the ,siarrin8 ,whatever enters or goes out of ,tangier by the land passes through this street4 ,oh1 the riches that pass through this street6 ,behold those camels1 what a long train2 twenty1 thirty1 a whole cafila descending the street4 ,wullah6 ,i know those camels1 ,i know the driver4 ,good day1 ,o ,sidi ,hassim1 in how many days from ,fez8 ,and now we are arrived at the wall1 and we must pass under this gate4 ,this gate is called ,bab del ,faz2 we are now in the ,soc de ,barra40 ,the ,soc de ,barra is an open place beyond the upper wall of ,tangier1 on the side of the hill4 ,the ground is irregular and steep2 there are1 however1 some tolerably level spots4 ,in this place1 every ,thursday #cfb and ,sunday morning1 a species of mart is held1 on which account it is called ,soc de ,barra1 or the outward market-place4 ,here and there1 near the town ditch1 are subterranean pits1 with small orifices1 about the circumference of a chimney1 which are generally covered with a large stone1 or stuffed with straw4 ,these pits are granaries1 in which wheat1 barley1 and other species of grain intended for sale are stored4 ,on one side are two or three rude huts1 or rather sheds1 beneath which keep watch the guardians of the corn4 ,it is very dangerous to pass over this hill at night1 after the town gates are closed1 as at that time numerous large and ferocious dogs are let loose1 who would to a certainty pull down1 and perhaps destroy1 any stranger who should draw nigh4 ,halfway up the hill are seen four white walls1 inclosing a spot about ten feet square1 where rest the bones of ,sidi ,mokhfidh1 a saint of celebrity1 who died some fifteen years ago4 ,here terminates the soc2 the remainder of the hill is called ,el ,kawar1 or the place of graves1 being the common burying-ground of ,tangier2 the resting-places of the dead are severally distinguished by a few stones arranged so as to form an oblong circle4 ,near ,mokhfidh sleeps ,sidi ,gali2 but the principal saint of ,tangier lies interred on the top of the hill1 in the centre of a small plain4 ,a beautiful chapel or mosque1 with vaulted roof1 is erected there in his honour1 which is in general adorned with banners of various dyes4 ,the name of this saint is ,mohammed el ,haji1 and his memory is held in the utmost veneration in ,tangier and its vicinity4 ,his death occurred at the commencement of the present century4 ,these details ,i either gathered at the time or on subsequent occasions4 ,on the north side of the soc1 close by the town1 is a wall with a gate4 8,come10 said the old mahasni1 giving a flourish with his hand2 8come1 and ,i will show you the garden of a ,nazarene consul40 ,i followed him through the gate1 and found myself in a spacious garden laid out in the ,european taste1 and planted with lemon and pear trees1 and various kinds of aromatic shrubs4 ,it was1 however1 evident that the owner chiefly prided himself on his flowers1 of which there were numerous beds4 ,there was a handsome summer-house1 and art seemed to have exhausted itself in making the place complete4 ,one thing was wanting1 and its absence was strangely remarkable in a garden at this time of the year2 scarcely a leaf was to be seen4 ,the direst of all the plagues which devastated ,egypt was now busy in this part of ,africa--the locust was at work1 and in no place more fiercely than in the particular spot where ,i was now standing4 ,all around looked blasted4 ,the trees were brown and bald as in winter4 ,nothing green save the fruits1 especially the grapes1 huge clusters of which were depending from the parras2 for the locust touches not the fruit whilst a single leaf remains to be devoured4 ,as we passed along the walks1 these horrible insects flew against us in every direction1 and perished by hundreds beneath our feet4 8,see the ayanas10 said the old mahasni1 8and hear them eating4 ,powerful is the ayana1 more powerful than the sultan or the consul4 ,should the sultan send all his makhasniah against the ayana1 should he send me with them1 the ayana would say1 #8,ha6 ha6' ,powerful is the ayana6 ,he fears not the consul4 ,a few weeks ago the consul said1 #8,i am stronger than the ayana1 and ,i will extirpate him from the land4' ,so he shouted through the city1 #8,o ,tangerines6 speed forth to fight the ayana1--destroy him in the egg2 for know that whosoever shall bring me one pound weight of the eggs of the ayana1 unto him will ,i give five reals of ,spain2 there shall be no ayanas this year4' ,so all ,tangier rushed forth to fight the ayana1 and to collect the eggs which the ayana had laid to hatch beneath the sand on the sides of the hills1 and in the roads1 and in the plains4 ,and my own child1 who is seven years old1 went forth to fight the ayana1 and he alone collected eggs to the weight of five pounds1 eggs which the ayana had placed beneath the sand1 and he carried them to the consul1 and the consul paid the price4 ,and hundreds carried eggs to the consul1 more or less1 and the consul paid them the price1 and in less than three days the treasure chest of the consul was exhausted4 ,and then he cried1 #8,desist1 ,o ,tangerines6 perhaps we have destroyed the ayana1 perhaps we have destroyed them all6' ,ha6 ha6 ,look around you1 and beneath you1 and above you1 and tell me whether the consul has destroyed the ayana4 ,oh1 powerful is the ayana6 ,more powerful than the consul1 more powerful than the sultan and all his armies40 #cfd ,it will be as well to observe here1 that within a week from this time all the locusts had disappeared1 no one knew how--only a few stragglers remained4 ,but for this providential deliverance1 the fields and gardens in the vicinity of ,tangier would have been totally devastated4 ,these insects were of an immense size1 and of a loathly appearance4 ,we now passed over the soc to the opposite side1 where stand the huts of the guardians4 ,here a species of lane presents itself1 which descends to the seashore2 it is deep and precipitous1 and resembles a gully or ravine4 ,the banks on either side are covered with the tree which bears the prickly fig1 called in ,moorish1 ,kermous del ,inde4 #cfe ,there is something wild and grotesque in the appearance of this tree or plant1 for ,i know not which to call it4 ,its stem1 though frequently of the thickness of a man's body1 has no head1 but divides itself1 at a short distance from the ground1 into many crooked branches1 which shoot in all directions1 and bear green and uncouth leaves1 about half an inch in thickness1 and which1 if they resemble anything1 present the appearance of the fore fins of a seal1 and consist of multitudinous fibres4 ,the fruit1 which somewhat resembles a pear1 has a rough tegument covered with minute prickles1 which instantly enter the hand which touches them1 however slightly1 and are very difficult to extract4 ,i never remember to have seen vegetation in ranker luxuriance than that which these fig-trees exhibited1 nor upon the whole a more singular spot4 8,follow me10 said the mahasni1 8and ,i will show you something which you will like to see40 ,so he turned to the left1 leading the way by a narrow path up the steep bank1 till we reached the summit of a hillock1 separated by a deep ditch from the wall of ,tangier4 ,the ground was thickly covered with the trees already described1 which spread their strange arms along the surface1 and whose thick leaves crushed beneath our feet as we walked along4 ,amongst them ,i observed a large number of stone slabs lying horizontally2 they were rudely scrawled over with odd characters1 which stooped down to inspect4 8,are you talib enough read those signs80 exclaimed the old ,moor4 8,they are letters of the accursed ,jews2 this is their mearrah1 as they call it1 and here they inter their dead4 ,fools1 they trust in ,muza1 when they might believe in ,mohammed1 and therefore their dead shall burn everlastingly in ,jehinnim4 ,see1 my sultan1 how fat is the soil of this mearrah of the ,jews2 see what kermous grow here4 ,when ,i was a boy ,i often came to the mearrah of the ,jews to eat kermous in the season of their ripeness4 ,the ,moslem boys of ,tangier love the kermous of the mearrah of the ,jews2 but the ,jews will not gather them4 ,they say that the waters of the springs which nourish the roots of these trees pass among the bodies of their dead1 and for that reason it is an abomination to taste of these fruits4 ,be this true1 or be it not1 one thing is certain1 in whatever manner nourished1 good are the kermous which grow in the mearrah of the ,jews40 ,we returned to the lane by the same path by which we had come3 as we were descending it he said1 8,know1 my sultan1 that the name of the place where we now are1 and which you say you like much1 is ,dar-sinah4 #cfg;a ,you will ask me why it bears that name1 as you see neither house nor man1 neither ,moslem1 ,nazarene1 nor ,jew1 only our two selves2 ,i will tell you1 my sultan1 for who can tell you better than myself8 ,learn1 ,i pray you1 that ,tangier was not always what it is now1 nor did it occupy always the place which it does now4 ,it stood yonder 7pointing to the east7 on those hills above the shore1 and ruins of houses are still to be seen there1 and the spot is called ,old ,tangier4 ,so in the old time1 as ,i have heard say1 this ,dar-sinah was a street1 whether without or within the wall matters not1 and there resided men of all trades2 smiths of gold1 and silver1 and iron1 and tin1 and artificers of all kinds4 ,you had only to go to the ,dar-sinah if you wished for any thing wrought1 and there instantly you would find a master of the particular craft4 ,my sultan tells me he likes the look of ,dar-sinah at the present day2 truly ,i know not why1 especially as the kermous are not yet in their ripeness1 nor fit to eat4 ,if he likes ,dar-sinah now1 how would my sultan have liked it in the old time1 when it was filled with gold and silver1 and iron and tin1 and was noisy with the hammers1 and the masters and the cunning men8 ,we are now arrived at the ,chali del ,bahar4 #cfg;b ,take care1 my sultan1 we tread upon bones40 ,we had emerged from the ,dar-sinah1 and the seashore was before us2 on a sudden we found ourselves amongst a multitude of bones of all kinds of animals1 and seemingly of all dates2 some being blanched with time and exposure to sun and wind1 whilst to others the flesh still partly clung2 whole carcases were here1 horses1 asses1 and even the uncouth remains of a camel4 ,gaunt dogs were busy here1 growling1 tearing1 and gnawing2 amongst whom1 unintimidated1 stalked the carrion vulture1 fiercely battening and even disputing with the brutes the garbage2 whilst the crow hovered overhead1 and croaked wistfully1 or occasionally perched upon some upturned rib bone4 8,see10 said the mahasni1 8the kawar of the animals4 ,my sultan has seen the kawar of the ,moslems and the mearrah of the ,jews2 and he sees here the kawar of the animals4 ,all the animals which die in ,tangier by the hand of ,god--horse1 dog1 or camel--are brought to this spot1 and here they putrefy or are devoured by the birds of the heaven or the wild creatures that prowl on the chali4 ,come1 my sultan1 it is not good to remain long in this place40 ,we were preparing to leave the spot1 when we heard a galloping down the ,dar-sinah1 and presently a horse and rider darted at full speed from the mouth of the lane and appeared upon the strand3 the horseman1 when he saw us1 pulled up his steed with much difficulty1 and joined us4 ,the horse was small but beautiful1 a sorrel with long mane and tail2 had he been hoodwinked he might perhaps have been mistaken for a ,cordovese jaca2 he was broad-chested1 and rotund in his hind quarters1 and possessed much of the plumpness and sleekness which distinguish that breed1 but looking in his eyes you would have been undeceived in a moment2 a wild savage fire darted from the restless orbs1 and so far from exhibiting the docility of the other noble and loyal animal1 he occasionally plunged desperately1 and could scarcely be restrained by a strong curb and powerful arm from resuming his former head-long course4 ,the rider was a youth1 apparently about eighteen1 dressed as a ,european1 with a montero cap on his head3 he was athletically built1 but with lengthy limbs1 his feet1 for he rode without stirrups or saddle1 reaching almost to the ground2 his complexion was almost as dark as that of a ,mulatto2 his features very handsome1 the eyes particularly so1 but filled with an expression which was bold and bad2 and there was a disgusting look of sensuality about the mouth4 ,he addressed a few words to the mahasni1 with whom he seemed to be well acquainted1 inquiring who ,i was4 ,the old man answered1 8,o ,jew1 my sultan understands our speech1 thou hadst better address thyself to him40 ,the lad then spoke to me in ,arabic1 but almost instantly dropping that language1 proceeded to discourse in tolerable ,french4 8,i suppose you are ,french10 said he with much familiarity2 8shall you stay long in ,tangier80 ,having received an answer1 he proceeded1 8as you are an ,englishman1 you are doubtless fond of horses2 know1 therefore1 whenever you are disposed for a ride1 ,i will accompany you1 and procure you horses4 ,my name is ,ephraim ,fragey3 ,i am stable-boy to the ,neapolitan consul1 who prizes himself upon possessing the best horses in ,tangier2 you shall mount any you please4 ,would you like to try this little aoud80 ,i thanked him1 but declined his offer for the present1 asking him at the same time how he had acquired the ,french language1 and why he1 a ,jew1 did not appear in the dress of his brethren8 8,i am in the service of a consul10 said he1 8and my master obtained permission that ,i might dress myself in this manner2 and as to speaking ,french1 ,i have been to ,marseilles and ,naples1 to which last place ,i conveyed horses1 presents from the sultan4 ,besides ,french1 ,i can speak ,italian40 ,he then dismounted1 and holding the horse firmly by the bridle with one hand1 proceeded to undress himself1 which having accomplished1 he mounted the animal and rode into the water4 ,the skin of his body was much akin in colour to that of a frog or toad1 but the frame was that of a young ,titan4 ,the horse took to the water with great unwillingness1 and at a small distance from the shore commenced struggling with his rider1 whom he twice dashed from his back2 the lad1 however1 clung to the bridle1 and detained the animal4 ,all his efforts1 however1 being unavailing to ride him deeper in1 he fell to washing him strenuously with his hands1 then leading him out1 he dressed himself and returned by the way he came4 8,good are the horses of the ,moslems10 said my old friend2 8where will you find such8 ,they will descend rocky mountains at full speed and neither trip nor fall2 but you must be cautious with the horses of the ,moslems1 and treat them with kindness1 for the horses of the ,moslems are proud1 and they like not being slaves4 ,when they are young and first mounted1 jerk not their mouths with your bit1 for be sure if you do they will kill you2 sooner or later1 you will perish beneath their feet4 ,good are our horses1 and good our riders1 yea1 very good are the ,moslems at mounting the horse2 who are like them8 ,i once saw a ,frank rider compete with a ,moslem on this beach1 and at first the ,frank rider had it all his own way1 and he passed the ,moslem1 but the course was long1 very long1 and the horse of the ,frank rider1 which was a ,frank also1 panted2 but the horse of the ,moslem panted not1 for he was a ,moslem also1 and the ,moslem rider at last gave a cry and the horse sprang forward and he overtook the ,frank horse1 and then the ,moslem rider stood up in his saddle4 ,how did he stand8 ,truly he stood on his head1 and these eyes saw him2 he stood on his head in the saddle as he passed the ,frank rider2 and he cried ha6 ha6 as he passed the ,frank rider2 and the ,moslem horse cried ha6 ha6 as he passed the ,frank breed1 and the ,frank lost by a far distance4 ,good are the ,franks2 good their horses2 but better are the ,moslems1 and better are the horses of the ,moslems40 ,we now directed our steps towards the town1 but not by the path we came3 turning to the left under the hill of the mearrah1 and along the strand1 we soon came to a rudely-paved way with a steep ascent1 which wound beneath the wall of the town to a gate1 before which1 on one side1 were various little pits like graves1 filled with water or lime4 8,this is ,dar-dwag10 said the mahasni2 8this is the house of the bark1 and to this house are brought the hides2 all those which are prepared for use in ,tangier are brought to this house1 and here they are cured with lime1 and bran1 and bark1 and herbs4 ,and in this ,dar-dwag there are one hundred and forty pits2 ,i have counted them myself2 and there were more which have now ceased to be1 for the place is very ancient4 ,and these pits are hired not by one1 nor by two1 but by many people1 and whosoever list can rent one of these pits and cure the hides which he may need2 but the owner of all is one man1 and his name is ,cado ,ableque4 ,and now my sultan has seen the house of the bark1 and ,i will show him nothing more this day2 for to-day is ,youm al ,jumal1 #cgb and the gates will be presently shut whilst the ,moslems perform their devotions4 ,so ,i will accompany my sultan to the guest house1 and there ,i will leave him for the present40 ,we accordingly passed through a gate1 and ascending a street found ourselves before the mosque where ,i had stood in the morning2 in another minute or two we were at the door of ,joanna ,correa4 ,i now offered my kind guide a piece of silver as a remuneration for his trouble1 whereupon he drew himself up and said-- 8,the silver of my sultan ,i will not take1 for ,i consider that ,i have done nothing to deserve it4 ,we have not yet visited all the wonderful things of this blessed town4 ,on a future day ,i will conduct my sultan to the castle of the governor1 and to other places which my sultan will be glad to see2 and when we have seen all we can1 and my sultan is content with me1 if at any time he see me in the soc of a morning1 with my basket in my hand1 and he see nothing in that basket1 then is my sultan at liberty as a friend to put grapes in my basket1 or bread in my basket1 or fish or meat in my basket4 ,that will ,i not refuse of my sultan1 when ,i shall have done more for him than ,i have now4 ,but the silver of my sultan will ,i not take now nor at any time40 ,he then waved his hand gently1 and departed4 ,,chapter ,,lvii4 ,strange ,trio--,the ,mulatto--,the ,peace-offering--,moors of ,granada--,vive la ,guadeloupe--,the ,moors--,pascual ,fava--,blind ,algerine--,the ,retreat4 ,three men were seated in the wustuddur of ,joanna ,correa1 when ,i entered2 singular-looking men they all were1 though perhaps three were never gathered together more unlike to each other in all points4 ,the first on whom ,i cast my eye was a man about sixty1 dressed in a grey kerseymere coat with short lappets1 yellow waistcoat1 and wide coarse canvas trousers2 upon his head was a very broad dirty straw hat1 and in his hand he held a thick cane with ivory handle2 his eyes were bleared and squinting1 his face rubicund1 and his nose much carbuncled4 ,beside him sat a good-looking black1 who perhaps appeared more negro than he really was1 from the circumstance of his being dressed in spotless white jean--jerkin1 waistcoat1 and pantaloons being all of that material3 his head gear consisted of a blue montero cap4 ,his eyes sparkled like diamonds1 and there was an indescribable expression of good humour and fun upon his countenance4 ,the third man was a ,mulatto1 and by far the most remarkable personage of the group3 he might be between thirty and forty2 his body was very long1 and1 though uncouthly put together1 exhibited every mark of strength and vigour2 it was cased in a ferioul of red wool1 a kind of garment which descends below the hips4 ,his long1 muscular1 and hairy arms were naked from the elbow1 where the sleeves of the ferioul terminate2 his under limbs were short in comparison with his body and arms2 his legs were bare1 but he wore blue kandrisa as far as the knee2 every feature of his face was ugly1 exceedingly and bitterly ugly1 and one of his eyes was sightless1 being covered with a white film4 ,by his side on the ground was a large barrel1 seemingly a water-cask1 which he occasionally seized with a finger and thumb1 and waved over his head as if it had been a quart pot4 ,such was the trio who now occupied the wustuddur of ,joanna ,correa3 and ,i had scarcely time to remark what ,i have just recorded1 when that good lady entered from a back court with her handmaid ,johr1 or the pearl1 an ugly fat ,jewish girl with an immense mole on her cheek4 8,que ,dios remate tu nombre10 exclaimed the ,mulatto2 8may ,allah blot out your name1 ,joanna1 and may he likewise blot out that of your maid ,johr4 ,it is more than fifteen minutes that ,i have been seated here1 after having poured out into the tinaja the water which ,i brought from the fountain1 and during all that time ,i have waited in vain for one single word of civility from yourself or from ,johr4 ,usted no tiene modo1 you have no manner with you1 nor more has ,johr4 ,this is the only house in ,tangier where ,i am not received with fitting love and respect1 and yet ,i have done more for you than for any other person4 ,have ,i not filled your tinaja with water when other people have gone without a drop8 ,when even the consul and the interpreter of the consul had no water to slake their thirst1 have you not had enough to wash your wustuddur8 ,and what is my return8 ,when ,i arrive in the heat of the day1 ,i have not one kind word spoken to me1 nor so much as a glass of makhiah offered to me2 must ,i tell you all that ,i do for you1 ,joanna8 ,truly ,i must1 for you have no manner with you4 ,do ,i not come every morning just at the third hour2 and do ,i not knock at your door2 and do you not arise and let me in1 and then do ,i not knead your bread in your presence1 whilst you lie in bed1 and because ,i knead it is not yours the best bread in ,tangier8 ,for am ,i not the strongest man in ,tangier1 and the most noble also80 ,here he brandished his barrel over his head1 and his face looked almost demoniacal4 8,hear me1 ,joanna10 he continued1 8you know that ,i am the strongest man in ,tangier1 and ,i tell you again for the thousandth time1 that ,i am the most noble4 ,who are the consuls8 ,who is the ,pasha8 ,they are ,pashas and consuls now1 but who were their fathers8 ,i know not1 nor do they4 ,but do ,i not know who my fathers2 were8 ,were they not ,moors of ,garnata 7,granada71 #cge and is it not on that account that ,i am the strongest man in ,tangier8 ,yes1 ,i am of the old ,moors of ,garnata1 and my family has lived here1 as is well known1 since ,garnata was lost to the ,nazarenes1 and now ,i am the only one of my family of the blood of the old ,moors in all this land1 and on that account ,i am of nobler blood than the sultan1 for the sultan is not of the blood of the ,moors of ,garnata4 ,do you laugh1 ,joanna8 ,does your maid ,johr laugh8 ,am ,i not ,hammin ,widdir1 el hombre mas valido de ,tanger8 #cgf;a ,and is it not true that ,i am of the blood of the ,moors of ,garnata8 ,deny it1 and ,i will kill you both1 you and your maid ,johr40 8,you have been eating hsheesh and majoon1 ,hammin10 said ,joanna ,correa1 8and the ,shaitn has entered into you1 as he but too frequently does4 ,i have been busy1 and so has ,johr1 or we should have spoken to you before2 however1 ma ydoorshee1 #cgf;b ,i know how to pacify you now and at all times2 will you take some gin-bitters1 or a glass of common makhiah80 8,may you burst1 ,o ,joanna10 said the ,mulatto1 8and may ,johr also burst2 ,i mean1 may you both live many years1 and know neither pain nor sorrow4 ,i will take the gin-bitters1 ,o ,joanna1 because they are stronger than the makhiah1 which always appears to me like water2 and ,i like not water1 though ,i carry it4 ,many thanks to you1 ,joanna2 here is health to you1 ,joanna1 and to this good company40 ,she had handed him a large tumbler filled to the brim2 he put it to his nostrils1 snuffed in the flavour1 and then1 applying it to his mouth1 removed it not whilst one drop of the fluid remained4 ,his features gradually relaxed from their former angry expression1 and looking particularly amiable at ,joanna1 he at last said-- 8,i hope that within a little time1 ,o ,joanna1 you will be persuaded that ,i am the strongest man in ,tangier1 and that ,i am sprung from the blood of the ,moors of ,garnata1 as then you will no longer refuse to take me for a husband1 you and your maid ,johr1 and to become ,moors4 ,what a glory to you1 after having been married to a ,genoui1 and given birth to ,genouillos1 to receive for husband a ,moor like me1 and to bear him children of the blood of ,garnata6 ,what a glory1 too1 for ,johr6--how much better than to marry a vile ,jew1 even like ,hayim ,ben ,attar1 or your cook ,sabia1 both of whom ,i could strangle with two fingers1 for am ,i not ,hammin ,widdir1 ,moro de ,garnata1 el hombre mas valido de ,tanger80 ,he then shouldered his barrel and departed4 8,is that ,mulatto really what he pretends to be80 said ,i to ,joanna2 8is he a descendant of the ,moors of ,granada80 8,he always talks about the ,moors of ,granada1 when he is mad with majoon or aguardiente10 interrupted1 in bad ,french1 the old man whom ,i have before described1 and in the same croaking voice which ,i had heard chanting in the morning4 8,nevertheless it may be true1 and if he had not heard something of the kind from his parents1 he would never have imagined such a thing1 for he is too stupid4 ,as ,i said before1 it is by no means impossible3 many of the families of ,granada settled down here when their town was taken by the ,christians1 but the greater part went to ,tunis4 ,when ,i was there1 ,i lodged in the house of a ,moor who called himself ,zegri1 #cgh and was always talking of ,granada and the things which his forefathers had done there4 ,he would moreover sit for hours singing romances of which ,i understood not one word1 praised be the ,mother of ,god1 but which he said all related to his family3 there were hundreds of that name in ,tunis1 therefore why should not this ,hammin1 this drunken water-carrier1 be a ,moor of ,granada also8 ,he is ugly enough to be emperor of all the ,moors4 ,oh1 the accursed canaille6 ,i have lived amongst them for my sins these eight years1 at ,oran and here4 ,monsieur1 do you not consider it to be a hard case for an old man like myself1 who am a ,christian1 to live amongst a race who know not ,god1 nor ,christ1 nor anything holy80 8,what do you mean80 said ,i1 8by asserting that the ,moors know not ,god8 ,there is no people in the world who entertain sublimer notions of the uncreated eternal ,god than the ,moors1 and no people have ever shown themselves more zealous for ,his honour and glory3 their very zeal for the glory of ,god has been and is the chief obstacle to their becoming ,christians4 ,they are afraid of compromising ,his dignity by supposing that ,he ever condescended to become man4 ,and with respect to ,christ1 their ideas even of ,him are much more just than those of the ,papists2 they say ,he is a mighty prophet1 whilst1 according to the others1 ,he is either a piece of bread1 or a helpless infant4 ,in many points of religion the ,moors are wrong1 dreadfully wrong2 but are the ,papists less so8 ,and one of their practices sets them immeasurably below the ,moors in the eyes of any unprejudiced person3 they bow down to idols1 ,christian idols if you like1 but idols still1 things graven of wood1 and stone1 and brass2 and from these things1 which can neither hear1 nor speak1 nor feel1 they ask and expect to obtain favours40 8,vive la ,france1 ,vive la ,guadeloupe60 said the black1 with a good ,french accent4 8,in ,france and in ,guadeloupe there is no superstition1 and they pay as much regard to the ,bible as to the ,koran2 ,i am now learning to read1 in order that ,i may understand the writings of ,voltaire1 who1 as ,i am told1 has proved that both the one and the other were written with the sole intention of deceiving mankind4 ,o1 vive la ,france6 where will you find such an enlightened country as ,france2 and where will you find such a plentiful country as ,france8 ,only one in the world1 and that is ,guadeloupe4 ,is it not so1 ,monsieur ,pascual8 ,were you ever at ,marseilles8 ,ah quel bon pays est celui-l pour les vivres1 pour les petits poulets1 pour les poulardes1 pour les perdrix1 pour les perdreaux1 pour les alouettes1 pour les bcasses1 pour les bcassines1 enfin1 pour tout40 8,pray1 sir1 are you a cook80 demanded ,i4 8,monsieur1 je le suis pour vous rendre service1 mon nom c'est ,grard1 et j'ai l'honneur d'tre chef de cuisine chez monsieur le consul ,hollandois4 ,a present je prie permission de vous saluer2 il faut que j'aille la maison pour faire le diner de mon matre40 ,at four ,i went to dine with the ,british consul4 ,two other ,english gentlemen were present1 who had arrived at ,tangier from ,gibraltar about ten days previously for a short excursion1 and were now detained longer than they wished by the ,levant wind4 ,they had already visited the principal towns in ,spain1 and proposed spending the winter either at ,cadiz or ,seville4 ,one of them1 ,mr4 ---1 struck me as being one of the most remarkable men ,i had ever conversed with3 he travelled not for diversion nor instigated by curiosity1 but merely with the hope of doing spiritual good1 chiefly by conversation4 ,the consul soon asked me what ,i thought of the ,moors and their country4 ,i told him that what ,i had hitherto seen of both highly pleased me4 ,he said that were ,i to live amongst them ten years1 as he had done1 he believed ,i should entertain a very different opinion2 that no people in the world were more false and cruel2 that their government was one of the vilest description1 with which it was next to an impossibility for any foreign power to hold amicable relations1 as it invariably acted with bad faith1 and set at nought the most solemn treaties4 ,that ,british property and interests were every day subjected to ruin and spoliation1 and ,british subjects exposed to unheard-of vexations1 without the slightest hope of redress being offered1 save recourse was had to force1 the only argument to which the ,moors were accessible4 ,he added1 that towards the end of the preceding year an atrocious murder had been perpetrated in ,tangier3 a ,genoese family of three individuals had perished1 all of whom were ,british subjects1 and entitled to the protection of the ,british flag4 ,the murderers were known1 and the principal one was even now in prison for the fact2 yet all attempts to bring him to condign punishment had hitherto proved abortive1 as he was a ,moor1 and his victims ,christians4 ,finally1 he cautioned me not to take walks beyond the wall unaccompanied by a soldier1 whom he offered to provide for me should ,i desire it1 as otherwise ,i incurred great risk of being ill-treated by the ,moors of the interior1 whom ,i might meet1 or perhaps murdered2 and he instanced the case of a ,british officer who not long since had been murdered on the beach for no other reason than being a ,nazarene1 and appearing in a ,nazarene dress4 ,he at length introduced the subject of the ,gospel1 and ,i was pleased to learn that1 during his residence in ,tangier1 he had distributed a considerable quantity of ,bibles amongst the natives in the ,arabic language1 and that many of the learned men1 or talibs1 had read the holy volume with great interest1 and that by this distribution1 which1 it is true1 was effected with much caution1 no angry or unpleasant feeling had been excited4 ,he finally asked whether ,i had come with the intention of circulating the ,scripture amongst the ,moors4 ,i replied that ,i had no opportunity of doing so1 as ,i had not one single copy either in the ,arabic language or character4 ,that the few ,testaments which were in my possession were in the ,spanish language1 and were intended for circulation amongst the ,christians of ,tangier1 to whom they might be serviceable1 as they all understood the language4 ,it was night1 and ,i was seated in the wustuddur of ,joanna ,correa1 in company with ,pascual ,fava1 the ,genoese4 ,the old man's favourite subject of discourse appeared to be religion1 and he professed unbounded love for the ,saviour1 and the deepest sense of gratitude for his miraculous atonement for the sins of mankind4 ,i should have listened to him with pleasure had he not smelt very strongly of liquor1 and by certain incoherences of language and wildness of manner given indications of being in some degree the worse for it4 ,suddenly two figures appeared beneath the doorway2 one was that of a bareheaded and bare-legged ,moorish boy of about ten years of age1 dressed in a gelaba4 ,he guided by the hand an old man1 whom ,i at once recognized as one of the ,algerines1 the good ,moslems of whom the old mahasni had spoken in terms of praise in the morning whilst we ascended the street of the ,siarrin4 ,he was very short of stature and dirty in his dress2 the lower part of his face was covered with a stubbly white beard2 before his eyes he wore a large pair of spectacles1 from which he evidently received but little benefit1 as he required the assistance of the guide at every step4 ,the two advanced a little way into the wustuddur1 and there stopped4 ,pascual ,fava no sooner beheld them1 than assuming a jovial air he started nimbly up1 and leaning on his stick1 for he had a bent leg1 limped to a cupboard1 out of which he took a bottle and poured out a glass of wine1 singing in the broken kind of ,spanish used by the ,moors of the coast-- 8,argelino1 ,moro fino1 ,no beber vino1 ,ni comer tocino40 #chb ,he then handed the wine to the old ,moor1 who drank it off1 and then1 led by the boy1 made for the door without saying a word4 8,hade mushe halal10 #chc;a said ,i to him with a loud voice4 8,cul shee halal10 #chc;b said the old ,moor1 turning his sightless and spectacled eyes in the direction from which my voice reached him4 8,of everything which ,god has given1 it is lawful for the children of ,god to partake40 8,who is that old man80 said ,i to ,pascual ,fava1 after the blind and the leader of the blind had departed4 8,who is he60 said ,pascual2 8who is he6 ,he is a merchant now1 and keeps a shop in the ,siarrin1 but there was a time when no bloodier pirate sailed out of ,algier4 ,that old blind wretch has cut more throats than he has hairs in his beard4 ,before the ,french took the place he was the rais or captain of a frigate1 and many was the poor ,sardinian vessel which fell into his hands4 ,after that affair he fled to ,tangier1 and it is said that he brought with him a great part of the booty which he had amassed in former times4 ,many other ,algerines came hither also1 or to ,tetuan1 but he is the strangest guest of them all4 ,he keeps occasionally very extraordinary company for a ,moor1 and is rather over-intimate with the ,jews4 ,well1 that's no business of mine2 only let him look to himself4 ,if the ,moors should once suspect him1 it were all over with him4 ,moors and ,jews1 ,jews and ,moors6 ,oh my poor sins1 my poor sins1 that brought me to live amongst them6-- 8#8,ave maris stella1 ,dei ,mater alma1 ,atque semper virgo1 ,felix cli porta6'0 #chc;c ,he was proceeding in this manner when ,i was startled by the sound of a musket4 8,that is the retreat10 said ,pascual ,fava4 8,it is fired every night in the soc at half-past eight1 and it is the signal for suspending all business1 and shutting up4 ,i am now going to close the doors1 and whosoever knocks1 ,i shall not admit them till ,i know their voice4 ,since the murder of the poor ,genoese last year1 we have all been particularly cautious40 ,thus had passed ,friday1 the sacred day of the ,moslems1 and the first which ,i had spent in ,tangier4 ,i observed that the ,moors followed their occupations as if the day had nothing particular in it4 ,between twelve and one1 the hour of prayer in the mosque1 the gates of the town were closed1 and no one permitted either to enter or go out4 ,there is a tradition current amongst them1 that on this day1 and at this hour1 their eternal enemies1 the ,nazarenes1 will arrive to take possession of their country2 on which account they hold themselves prepared against a surprisal4 ,,glossary4 ,in the following pages a translation only has been given1 as a rule1 of the ,romany words1 but references have been added which will enable los del aficion to acquire fuller knowledge elsewhere4 ,it is only right to state that for any philological theories advanced in this part of the ,glossary the late ,mr4 ,burke is not responsible4--,h4 ,w4 ,g4 ,,list ,,of ,,abbreviations4 ,a4 ,ascoli1 ,zigeunerisches4 #ahfe4 ,f4 ,francisque-,michel1 ,le ,pays ,basque4 #aheg4 ,g4 ,journal of the ,gypsy ,lore ,society4 #ahhh-ahib4 ,gr4 ,groome1 ,in ,gipsy ,tents4 #ahhj4 ,h4 ,hidalgo1 ,romances de ,germana4 #aggi4 ,j4 ,jimenez1 ,vocabulario del ,dialecto ,jitano4 #ahec4 ,lel4 ,leland1 ,the ,gypsies4 ,,ll4 ,borrow1 ,romano ,lavo-,lil4 #ahhh4 ,m4 ,miklosich1 ,ueber die ,mundarten und die ,wanderungen der ,zigeuner ,europa's4 #ahgb-ahhj4 ,mc,r4 ,mac,ritchie1 ,the ,gypsies of ,india4 #ahhf4 ,p4 ,pott1 ,die ,zigeuner in ,europa und ,asien4 #ahdd-e4 ,pp4 ,paspati1 ,etudes sur les ,tchinghians ou ,bohmiens de l',empire ,ottoman4 #ahgj4 ,r4 ,de ,rochas1 ,les ,parias de ,france et d',espagne4 #ahgf4 ,s4 ,smith1 ,tent ,life with ,english ,gypsies in ,norway4 #ahgc4 ,,sc4 ,smart and ,crofton1 ,the ,dialect of the ,english ,gypsies4 ,w4 ,wlislocki1 ,die ,sprache der transsilvanischen ,zigeuner4 #ahhd4 ,z4 ,borrow1 ,the ,zincali1 #crd edit4 #ahdc4 ,a4 ,arab4 ,o6 ,a sidi1 8,o my lord60 4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,to4 ,,abajar4 ,span4 ,to descend4 ,,ac,,na4 ,rom4 ,now4 ,p4 ii4 #abd2 ,a4 #ba2 ,w4 #gj4 ,,aduana4 ,span4 ,the custom-house4 ,fr4 la douane1 from ,arab4 diwn2 either as a council or as an account-book4 ,,adun4 ,hebr4 ,lord2 ,adon4 ,,aficion4 ,span4 ,affection4 ,los del aficion1 8those of the predilection10 persons addicted to the gypsies and their language4 ,z4 ii4 #eh4 ,,afrancesado4 ,span4 ,frenchified4 ,,agoa4 ,port4 ,water4 ,span4 agua4 ,,aguador4 ,span4 ,a water-carrier4 ,,aguardiente4 ,span4 ,agua ardiente1 fire-water2 coarse native spirit2 ,spanish brandy4 ,,alameda4 ,span4 ,a public promenade in or near a town1 planted with trees4 ,lit4 a place of poplars1 from ,span4 lamo1 a poplar4 ,,alcahuete4 ,span4 ,a spy2 a pimp4 ,arab4 al awwd4 ,,alcal4 ,span4 ,the fort4 ,arab1 al-al#8ah4 ,,alcalde4 ,span4 ,the mayor or chief magistrate of a town or village4 ,arab4 al di1 the judge4 ,,alcalde ,,mayor4 ,the chief magistrate of a district4 ,,alcayde4 ,span4 ,a governor of a castle or fortress4 ,arab4 al id1 the general4 ,in more modern parlance1 the governor of a prison1 a jailer4 ,,alcazar4 ,span4 ,a castle2 palace2 a fortress4 ,arab4 al ar4 ,,alcornoque4 ,span4 ,the cork tree1 ,quercus suber4 ,,aldea4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,a village4 ,,alecrim4 ,port4 ,rosemary4 ,a word said to be of ,arabic origin1 perhaps al karm1 a precious thing4 ,the ,spanish romero1 or pilgrim flower 7see note1 i4 #dg74 ,the ,english word is said to be derived from ros marinus1 dew of the sea4 ,,alem4 ,port4 ,beyond4 ,alemtejo1 the district beyond the ,tagus4 ,,alfandega4 ,port4 ,custom-house4 ,the ,arab4 fundu1 a large house4 ,,alforjas1 ,,las4 ,span4 ,saddle-bags4 ,arab4 al khurj4 ,,algibe4 ,span4 ,a vaulted subterranean cistern for storing water4 ,arab4 jubb1 a reservoir4 ,,alguacil or ,,alguazil4 ,span4 ,a constable1 or peace-officer4 ,arab4 al wazir1 the vizier1 governor1 deputy1 or minister4 ,,alhaja4 ,span4 ,any precious article1 a jewel4 ,probably from the ,arab1 al-hadja4 ,,alhama4 ,stated by ,borrow 7i4 #cid7 to be a ,moorish word1 meaning 8warm baths40 ,apparently the ,arab1 al ammm4 ,,alkheir4 ,arab4 ,of good4 ,,alma4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,soul4 ,,almocreves4 ,port4 ,muleteers or carriers4 ,a word of ,arabic origin1 al mukri1 like the ,spanish arriero4 ,,alquilador4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,a letter on hire of anything1 especially of horses4 ,alquilar1 in ,spanish1 signifies to give or lend on hire4 ,alquiler1 to take or borrow for reward4 ,the converse1 inquiler4 ,,alto4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,high4 ,,amiga4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,a mistress1 or concubine4 ,lit4 a female friend4 ,,amigo4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,a friend4 ,,anci,a ,,anci,,aco4 ,basque4 ,the ancient of the ancient4 ,,andalou4 ,rom4 ,an ,andalusian4 ,,andr4 ,rom4 ,in4 ,p4 ii4 #ef4 ,,anise-,,brandy4 ,eng4 ,a cordial1 something like the ,french anisette4 ,the anise 7,pimpinella anisum7 is largely cultivated in ,spain1 where it is known as anis4 ,the seed is dried and exported1 the aniseed of the ,english cake-makers4 ,,aoud4 ,arab4 ,according to ,borrow1 a stallion4 ,it is the ,moorish #8aud horse4 ,,aquel4 ,span4 ,that4 ,,arco4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,a bow1 an arch4 ,,ardoa4 ,guipuzcoan and ,biscayan for arno1 arnoa1 wine1 the final a being the definite article4 ,,argelino4 ,span4 ,a native of ,algiers4 ,,armada4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,a fleet1 or navy4 ,,arom,,li4 ,rom4 ,truly4 ,arromales caramba4 ,j4 ,,arriero4 ,span4 ,muleteer2 one who cries arrh or harr1 ,arabic 8,gee up60 ,the older form of ,harriero1 given in the ,dictionary of the ,spanish ,academy1 more clearly preserves this etymology4 ,,arroba4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,a weight equal to about #be lbs4 ,english4 ,arab1 ar ruba#81 a quarter4 ,,arroyo4 ,span4 ,a brook1 stream4 ,,artesano4 ,span4 ,artisan1 workman4 ,,ashor4 ,hebr4 ,jewish feast of the tenth 7day71 #8sor4 ,it is really the ,arabic #8ashr4 ,,atajo4 ,span4 ,a short cut1 material or moral2 an expedient of any kind4 ,lit4 a tying2 atar1 to tie4 ,,atalaya4 ,span4 ,a watch-tower4 ,port4 atalaia4 ,a word of ,arabic origin2 a-al#8ah1 a view4 ,,attar4 ,arab4 ,essence4 ,more correctly1 #8aar4 ,frequently in combination4 ,the ,eng4 otto4 ,,auslandra4 ,milan4 ,the meaning of this word is given by ,borrow himself as 8to roam about in a dissipated manner40 ,it is obviously the ,germ4 ,ausland1 8a foreign country10 made into an ,italian verb4 ,on the authority of the native of ,como1 whom ,borrow met at ,cerrig y ,drudion1 it was considered a vulgar word1 even in the gergo of the ,milanese1 and that it is so may be proved by a reference to ,cherubini1 ,vocabolario ,milanese-,italiano1 s4v4 ,slndra1 ,slandr4 ,,auto ,,da ,f4 ,port4 ,span4 auto de f4 ,execution of persons condemned by the ,inquisition4 ,,avellana4 ,span4 ,a filbert4 ,,ayana4 ,arab4 ,according to ,borrow1 a locust4 ,it is not an ordinary ,arabic word1 possibly of some ,north ,african dialect4 ,,azabache4 ,span4 ,jet4 ,the ,arab1 as-sabaj4 ,,azabacheria4 ,span4 ,jet-market4 ,,azinheira4 ,port4 ,the holm-oak4 ,,azumbre4 ,span4 ,a measure for liquids1 the eighth of an arroba1 equal to about half a gallon4 ,from the ,arab4 ath-thumn the eighth4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,bab4 ,arab4 ,gate4 ,bab del ,faz1 gate of ,fez4 ,,bacalh,o4 ,port4 7,in ,span4 ,,bacallao or ,,abadejo74 ,salt cod1 commonly imported from the ,newfoundland coast4 ,,bahar4 ,arab4 ,sea4 ,,bahi or ,,baji4 ,rom4 ,fortune4 ,penar baji1 decir la buena ventura1 to tell fortunes4 ,according to ,borrow1 the ,sanscrit and ,persian bakt4 ,,bakh1 ,,bok4 ,rom4 ,luck4 ,kosko bakh1 8,good luck to you60 ,p4 ii4 #cih2 ,a4 #dg2 ,m4 vii4 #ad4 ,,balad4 ,arab4 ,land4 ,also beled4 ,,balich4 ,rom4 ,a hog4 ,p4 ii4 #dbj2 ,a4 #ed2 ,m4 vii4 #ae4 ,,bar4 ,aram4 ,son4 ,,bar4 ,rom4 ,a stone4 ,p4 ii4 #dji2 ,m4 vii4 #af4 ,,bar ,,lach4 ,rom4 ,the loadstone2 a gypsy charm or talisman4 ,lit4 8the good stone40 ,see ,,lach4 ,,baria4 ,rom4 ,used by ,borrow in ch4 x41 and given in ,z4 ii4 #adg1 as ,germana1 or thieves' slang1 for a gold onza 7q4v474 ,cf4 varia weight4 ,a4 #ab4 ,it is also the plural of bar1 used by ,english gypsies for a sovereign4 ,the correct ,gitano for onza is jara4 ,,barib1 ,,baributre1 ,,baribustre4 ,rom4 ,plenty1 much4 ,p4 ii4 #djj2 ,m4 vii4 #ag4 ,,baro4 ,rom4 ,great4 ,len ,baro the great river1 the ,guadalquivir4 ,hokkano ,baro the great trick4 ,see ,,hok4 ,p4 ii4 #daa2 ,a4 #ei2 ,m4 vii4 #ag4 ,,barra4 ,arab4 ,outside2 out of the town4 ,see ,,soc4 ,,barraganeria4 ,span4 ,concubinage4 ,see note1 i4 #aeg4 ,,barranco1 ,,barranca4 ,span4 ,a fissure in a hill1 a deep cleft1 made by the action of water2 a precipice4 ,,barrete4 ,span4 ,a helmet1 cap4 ,,barrio4 ,span4 ,one of the quarters or districts into which a large town is divided4 ,fr4 quartier4 ,,batu1 ,,bato4 ,rom4 ,father4 ,perhaps from the ,russ4 batuschca1 q4v4 ,in thieves' slang1 a prison governor or jailer4 ,p4 ii4 #dcj2 ,f4 #ade2 ,g4 i4 #fa2 ,j4 ,,batuschca1 ,,batushka4 ,russ4 ,little father4 ,a term of endearment or familiar address1 something like the ,span4 tio1 uncle4 ,,beber4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,to drink4 ,,becoresh4 ,hebr4 ,i4e4 ,epikores ,epicurus1 selected by ,jewish writers as a type of insolent atheism4 ,,bedeya4 ,arab4 ,an open waistcoat4 ,more correctly1 bad#8iyya4 ,,belad4 ,hebr4 ,in the power of4 ,,beled4 ,arab4 ,country4 ,also balad4 ,,bellota4 ,span4 ,an acorn4 ,the ,portuguese bolota2 ,arab1 balt4 ,,ben1 plur4 ,,beni4 ,hebr4 and ,arab4 ,son4 ,,bendito4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,blessed1 praised4 ,,beng1 ,,bengue1 ,,bengui4 ,rom4 ,the devil2 also any demon1 or evil spirit4 ,p4 ii4 #djg2 ,m4 vii4 #ai4 ,as to the meaning1 frog or toad1 see ,g4 i4 #aah4 ,,beraka4 ,hebr4 ,a blessing4 ,,besti1 ,,bestis4 ,rom4 ,a seat1 chair1 or saddle4 ,p4 ii4 #dbh2 ,m4 vii4 #bj4 ,borrow1 however1 seems to use it as a slang form of the following4 ,,bestia4 ,span4 ,an animal4 8,you brute60 ,,birdoche4 ,rom4 ,used by ,borrow in ch4 ix4 for a stage-coach or galera1 q4v4 ,it is probably connected with bedo1 berdo1 a cart4 ,z4 ii4 99 #ag4 ,eng4 ,rom4 vardo4 ,see ,p4 ii4 #hj2 ,a4 #fh2 ,m4 viii4 #if4 ,,boca4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,mouth4 ,,boda1 ,,bodas4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,marriage1 a wedding4 ,,bogamante1 ,,bogavante4 ,span4 ,the slang name for a large lobster2 orig4 the stroke-oar of a galley2 bogar to row1 avante in front4 ,,boh,,mien4 ,fr4 ,a gypsy4 ,,bolota4 ,port4 7,span4 ,,bellota47 ,an acorn4 ,,bolsa4 ,span4 and ,port4 7#a7 ,a purse4 7#b7 ,the ,exchange4 ,,bombard4 ,rom4 ,a lion4 ,used also of the gulf usually called the ,gulf of ,lyons1 but in ,french ,la ,golfe du ,lion1 or 8,gulf of the ,lion10 from its stormy water4 ,lyons on the ,rhone may have given the ,english1 but certainly not the ,french1 name to the bay4 ,p4 ii4 #dcb4 ,,bonanza4 ,span4 ,fair weather4 ,see note1 ii4 #bgc4 ,,bonito4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,pretty4 ,,borracho4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,a drunkard4 ,borracha is a wine-skin1 or leathern bottle4 ,hence ,shakespeare's ,borachio4 ,,borrico4 ,span4 ,dimin4 of ,burro1 an ass4 ,,bota4 ,span4 ,a leather wine-bottle or bag2 usually made of the skin of a pig for storing purposes1 of goatskin for travelling4 ,a glass bottle is called frasco or botella4 ,,brasero4 ,span4 ,brazier2 brass or copper pan to hold live coals4 ,,bretima1 ,,bretema1 ,,bretoma4 ,gal4 ,a low-lying mist or fog4 ,when thick and damp it is called--also in ,galician--mexona4 ,,bribon1 ,,bribonazo4 ,span4 ,a vagrant1 vagabond1 or impostor4 ,the termination in bribonazo does not express action1 as in such words as calmazo1 q4v41 but augmentation4 ,,briboneria4 ,span4 ,knavery1 rascality4 ,,broa4 ,port4 and ,gal4 ,,barona4 ,span4 and ,gal4 ,,brona4 ,gal4 ,a bread made of a mixture of maize 7#b parts71 rye 7#d71 millet 7#a71 and panic-grass 7#a74 ,,brotoboro4 ,rom4 ,first4 ,grk4 4 ,brotorbo1 ,j4 ,,brujo or ,,bruxo4 ,span41 ,port41 and ,gal4 ,a sorcerer1 or wizard4 ,,buckra4 ,arab4 ,bikr1 a virgin2 used 7ii4 #ceg7 for the ,blessed ,virgin ,mary4 ,,bueno4 ,span4 ,good4 ,buenas noches1 8good night40 ,,bufa4 ,rom4 ,a manger1 crib4 ,p4 ii4 #dcc4 ,,bul1 ,,bull,,ti4 ,rom4 ,the anus4 ,p4 ii4 #dbb4 ,,burra4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,jackass2 she-ass4 ,,busn4 ,rom4 ,a man who is not a gypsy1 a ,gentile4 ,p4 ii4 #dcd2 ,pp4 #agb2 ,m4 vii4 #bf4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,ca4 ,span4 ,an abbreviated form of ,,carajo1 q4v4 ,,cabalgadura4 ,span4 ,a sumpter horse or mule2 beast of burden4 ,,caballejo1 or ,,caballuelo4 ,span4 ,pony4 ,,caballeria4 ,span4 ,is used either of a single horse1 mule1 or ass used for riding1 as the ,fr4 monture1 or for a number of such beasts together4 ,the word in the plural also signifies chivalry or knighthood4 ,,caballero4 ,span4 ,lit4 a cavalier1 but constantly used either as a mode of polite address1 8,sir10 or in speaking of a gentleman1 whether mounted or on foot4 ,,caba,a4 ,span4 7#a7 ,a shepherd's hut or cabin4 7#b7 ,a flock1 or assemblage of flocks1 of sheep1 under the charge of a mayoral1 driven to and from the wild pasture lands of ,estremadura4 ,see note1 i4 #adf4 ,,cacharro4 ,span4 ,a coarse earthen pan or pot4 ,,cachas4 ,rom4 ,shears1 scissors4 ,z4 i4 #bdd2 ,p4 ii4 #ii2 cachais1 ,r4 #bie4 ,,cachimani4 ,rom4 ,a wine-shop1 or tavern4 ,cachiman1 ,j4 ,see ,p4 ii4 #aag2 ,m4 i4 #ai4 ,,caes4 ,port4 ,a wharf4 ,,cafila1 rather ,,filah4 ,arab4 ,a caravan4 ,,calabozo4 ,span4 ,dungeon or underground cell4 ,calabozero1 the keeper thereof2 turnkey4 ,,calash4 ,eng4 ,a two-wheeled carriage with a hood2 a buggy4 ,span4 calesa2 ,port4 calea2 ,fr4 calche4 ,,caldas4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,warm ,baths4 ,used most frequently in combination as a place name2 e4g4 ,caldas de ,reyes1 called by ,borrow 7i4 #cid7 ,caldas de los ,reyes1 in ,galicia4 ,,cal,s4 ,rom4 ,plur4 of ,,cal1 ,,calor4 ,a gypsy2 lit4 a black and dark man4 ,see ,,cal4 ,,calesero4 ,span4 7#a7 ,the driver of a calesa4 7#b7 ,the driver of any carriage or cart4 ,,callar4 ,span4 ,to be silent4 ,calla boca1 8,hold your tongue60 ,,callard1 ,,gallard4 ,rom4 ,a black man1 mulatto4 ,see ,,cal4 ,,calle4 ,span4 ,a street4 ,,callee1 ,,call4 ,rom4 ,fem4 of ,,cal1 q4v4 ,,callicaste4 ,rom4 7#a7 ,yesterday4 7#b7 ,tomorrow4 ,so in ,english ,rom4 cllico1 kliko4 ,p4 ii4 #ajg2 ,,ll4 #g4 ,,calmazo4 ,span4 ,a calm at sea4 ,lit4 an 8attack0 or 8stroke0 of calm1 such being the force of the termination azo2 as pual1 a poignard2 pualazo1 the blow of a poignard4 ,,cal1 ,,calor4 ,rom4 ,one of the kalo rat1 or black blood2 a gypsy4 ,p4 ii4 #ajf2 ,a4 #dd2 ,m4 vii4 #ga2 ,g4 i4 #agh4 ,,camarera4 ,span4 ,a lady's maid1 chambermaid4 ,,campi,a4 ,span4 ,the open country1 the fields4 ,dimin4 of ,,campo4 ,,campo4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,the country4 ,in the mouths of ,english-speaking ,argentines it has become 8the camp10 conveying no idea whatever of the ,anglo-,indian 8camp10 or 8marching0 with tents1 or 8camping out40 ,,campo ,,santo4 ,span41 ,port41 and ,ital4 ,a churchyard1 cemetery4 ,,canallis4 ,see ,,jara ,,canallis4 ,,candory1 plur4 ,,candor4 ,rom4 ,christian4 ,p4 ii4 #abe2 ,mc,r4 #df4 ,,can,,nigo4 ,span4 ,a canon or prebendary of a cathedral4 ,,capataz4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,not capitaz4 ,a head man2 overseer2 ganger2 steward on a farm4 ,from ,lat4 caput4 ,,capilla4 ,span4 ,a chapel4 ,,capitular4 ,span4 ,belonging to the chapter4 ,sala capitular1 chapter-house4 ,,carajo4 ,span4 8,the great oath of ,spain1 which ought never to be written or pronounced in full1 practically forms the foundation of the language of the lower orders2 it is a most ancient remnant of the phallic abjuration of the evil eye1 the dreaded fascination which still perplexes the minds of ,orientals1 and is not banished from ,spanish and ,neapolitan superstitions4 ,the word terminates in ajo1 on which stress is laid2 the j is pronounced with a most ,arabic guttural aspiration4 ,the word ajo means also garlic1 which is quite as often in ,spanish mouths1 and is exactly what ,hotspur liked--a #8mouth-filling oath1' energetic and ,michael ,angelesque40--,ford's ,spain1 ,introd4 p4 #ce4 ,for 8the evil eye10 see2 ,z4 i4 #ach4 ,,carals4 ,catalan for ,,carajo1 q4v4 ,,caramba4 ,span4 ,a polite modification of the grosser ,,carajo1 q4v4 ,,carbonero4 ,span4 ,a charcoal-burner2 also a collier4 ,,carcel4 ,span4 ,a prison4 ,,carcelero1 ,,carcelera4 ,span4 ,a male or female jailer2 or the latter may be merely the wife of a jailer4 ,,carlino1 ,,carlista4 ,span4 ,a partisan of ,don ,carlos4 ,,carlo4 ,rom4 ,heart4 ,p4 ii4 #abe4 ,it also means 8throat10 the only meaning in ,english ,rom4 ,p4 ii4 #if2 ,a4 #ff2 ,pp4 #bii2 ,,sc4 #ia4 ,,carracho4 ,gal4 ,a tick1 or small parasite found on dogs and cattle4 ,carracha is a somewhat similar pest of the human body4 ,the word1 which is not ,spanish1 is used by ,borrow as an expletive1 instead of the coarser ,,carajo1 q4v4 ,,carrascal4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,a plantation or grove of the following4 ,,carrasco4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,the ilex1 or evergreen oak4 ,,carreta4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,a long and narrow cart4 ,,carretera4 ,span4 ,a high-road4 ,fr4 voie carrossable4 ,,carronade4 ,o4 ,eng4 ,a short cannon of large bore1 usually carried on board ship4 ,the word has nothing to do with cannon1 but is derived from the ,scotch town of ,carron1 in ,stirlingshire1 where these pieces were first made in #aggi4 ,they were not used after #aheb1 and the name is obsolete4 ,,carta4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,a letter4 ,,casa4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,house4 ,,caspita4 ,span4 8,wonderful60 ,milder than ,,caramba1 q4v4 ,,castellano4 ,span4 ,a ,castilian4 ,hablar ,castellano1 to talk ,spanish4 ,,castumba4 ,rom4 ,castile4 ,,cavalgadura4 ,gal4 ,see ,,cabalgadura4 ,,cavalheiro4 ,port4 ,see ,,caballero4 ,c,,ad4 ,irish4 ,a hundred4 ,,cerrada4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,closed1 concealed1 dark4 ,,cerro4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,a hill1 hillock4 ,,chab4 ,rom4 ,a girl4 ,see ,,chab4 ,,chab1 ,,chab1 ,,chabor4 ,rom4 ,a boy1 youth1 fellow4 ,p4 ii4 #aha2 ,a4 #ea2 ,pp4 #ebh2 ,m4 vii4 #cj2 ,mc,r4 #ajj4 ,possibly the origin of the ,english slang1 8chap40 ,,chachip4 ,rom4 ,the truth4 ,p4 i4 #ach2 ii4 #agh2 ,a4 #bi2 ,pp4 #ebc2 ,m4 vii4 #bg4 ,,chai4 ,rom4 ,irreg4 plur4 of ,,chab1 q4v4 ,chaps2 used commonly for gypsies4 ,,chal4 ,rom4 ,a lad1 boy1 fellow2 possibly the same as chiel1 childe4 ,rmano-chal1 a gypsy4 ,mc,r4 #ih4 ,,chali ,,del ,,bahar4 ,arab4 ,bahar is 8the sea0 in ,arabic2 sht is 8the shore40 ,chali is possibly a misprint for this4 ,,chalan4 ,span4 ,a jockey or horse-dealer4 ,,chard1 ,,ch,,ti4 ,rom4 ,a fair4 ,i cannot find this word except in ,borrow 7,z4 ii4 99 #cf71 though ,j4 gives chand4 ,borrow derives it from ,hind1 chhetr field4 ,if so it is perhaps connected with char1 chor grass4 ,p4 ii4 #aih2 ,pp4 #ebi2 ,m4 vii4 #bi4 ,can it be the ,persian chatr--canopy1 tent8 ,,charip1 ,,cheripen4 ,rom4 ,bed1 or bedstead4 ,hind4 charpoy that which has four feet or legs4 ,borrow 7,z4 ii499 #cg7 wrongly suggests the ,grk4 1 though giving1 as elsewhere 7,,ll4 #ajj71 the right derivation4 ,p4 ii4 #bjc2 ,m4 vii4 #cb4 ,,chegar4 ,port4 ,to arrive1 land4 ,,chenourain4 ,synagogues4 ,from shanra1 an ,algerian or low ,arabic word4 ,,chi1 ,,chich4 ,rom4 ,nothing4 ,p4 ii4 #agf2 ,m4 vii4 #ca4 ,,chibado4 ,rom4 ,put into4 ,from chibar1 a word used in many senses4 ,p4 ii4 #ahd4 ,,chica4 ,span4 ,little girl4 ,properly the fem4 of the adj4 chico1 which is also used commonly for a boy1 especially as a mode of address1 or to call attention1 h1 chico6 ,,chicotito4 ,span4 ,dimin4 of chico4 ,a little fellow1 dwarf4 ,,chim4 ,rom4 ,kingdom1 country4 ,p4 ii4 #bie2 ,m4 viii4 #hb2 ,z4 ii4 99 #ch2 and ,j4 ,,chindomar4 ,rom4 ,a butcher4 ,from chinar to cut4 ,p4 ii4 #bjh2 ,pp4 #ech2 ,m4 vii4 #cc4 ,,chinel4 ,rom4 ,a man of official position or rank4 ,especially an alguacil4 ,russ4 chin1 rank4 ,p4 ii4 #bjd4 ,,chinobar4 ,rom4 ,a head official4 ,compounded of ,,chin and ,,baro1 q4v4 ,,chipe4 ,rom4 ,tongue1 speech4 ,p4 ii4 #baf2 ,m4 vii4 #ca2 ,,sc4 #fd4 ,,chiria4 ,borrow gives this as ,sanscrit for 8bird10 but ,i cannot find his authority4 ,the ,rom4 word is cziriklo1 chiriclo4 ,see ,p4 ii4 #aii4 ,,chor4 ,rom4 ,subs4 a thief2 verb1 to steal4 ,p4 ii4 #bjj2 ,a4 #df2 ,pp4 #ede-f2 ,m4 vii4 #cf4 ,,choza4 ,span4 ,a hut or small cottage4 ,according to ,dozy and ,engelmann it is the ,arab4 khas4 ,,chul1 plur4 ,,chul4 ,rom4 ,a dollar4 ,span4 peso fuerte4 ,borrow uses the word in his gypsy ,st4 ,luke1 xv4 #h1 etc4 ,p4 ii4 #bje1 has 8,chuli ,groschen10 and suggests a connexion with tchulo thick4 ,it is tempting to compare the ,english slang 8a thick 'un0 a sovereign4 ,,chul1 ,,chur4 ,rom4 ,a knife4 ,hind4 churi4 ,p4 ii4 #baj2 ,pp4 #eej2 ,m4 vii4 #ci4 ,the form with ,l is only found in ,spanish4 ,pott suggests that it is a corruption of cuchillo4 ,in ,z4 ii4 #adh it is given as ,germana1 or thieves' slang1 and is probably their alteration of the correct chur4 ,,chuquel4 ,rom4 ,a dog4 ,p4 ii4 #bac2 ,a4 #fd2 ,pp4 #eec2 ,m4 vii4 #ea2 ,z4 ii4 99 #acb4 ,,cierra6 ,span4 8,close60 ,the war-cry of the ,castilian chivalry2 more fully1 ,santiago6 y cierra ,espaa6 ,,cierto4 ,span4 ,sure1 certain4 ,,ciervo4 ,span4 ,a stag4 ,,cocal4 ,rom4 ,a bone4 ,p4 ii4 #ib2 ,a4 #eb2 ,pp4 #bhi2 ,m4 vii4 #he4 ,,coisa1 ,,cousa4 ,port4 ,a thing4 ,,colegio4 ,span4 ,a college4 ,,comer4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,to eat4 ,,comitiva4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,suite1 following1 company4 ,,commercio4 ,port4 ,commerce4 ,span4 comercio4 ,,companheiro4 ,port4 ,companion1 comrade4 ,,comprar4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,to buy4 ,,comunero4 ,span4 ,a member or partisan of the ,communities of ,castile4 ,see ,burke's ,hist4 of ,spain1 ii4 #caf4 ,,con4 ,span4 ,with4 ,,conciudadano4 ,span4 ,a fellow-citizen4 ,,conde4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,a count1 or earl4 ,lat4 comes4 ,a title at one time greater than that of duke in ,spain4 ,see ,burke's ,hist4 of ,spain1 i4 #adh4 ,,condenado4 ,span4 ,condemned1 damned4 ,,conquistar4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,to conquer4 ,,constitucion4 ,span4 ,constitution2 the constitution of #ahab4 ,,contrabandista4 ,span and ,port4 ,a smuggler4 ,,conversacion4 ,span4 ,conversation4 ,as an interjection1 8,folly6 rubbish60 ,,copita4 ,span4 ,a wine-glass1 or small drinking-cup2 dimin4 of copa4 ,,copla4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,a couplet1 or a few lines of poetry4 ,the original ,spanish of the lines quoted ii4 #fb is as follows-- 8,un manco escribi una carta2 ,un siego #cie la est mirando2 ,un mudo la est leyendo2 ,y un sordo la est escuchando40 7,rodriguez ,marin1 ,cantos ,populares ,espaoles1 tom4 iv4 p4 #cfd1 ,no4 #gdcd47 ,,corahai or ,,corajai4 ,rom4 ,the ,moors of ,northern ,africa4 ,p4 ii4 #abg2 ,a4 #bg2 ,pp4 #cbj2 ,m4 vii4 #fd4 ,,corahan1 fem4 ,,corahan4 ,rom4 ,a ,moor4 ,see ,,corahai4 ,,corchete4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,a catchpoll4 ,lit4 a clasp2 corchetes are 8hooks and eyes40 ,,cor,o4 ,gal4 ,a stag1 or deer4 ,,cordoves4 ,span4 ,of or belonging to ,cordova4 ,,corregidor4 ,span4 ,a municipal magistrate4 ,orig4 a co-regidor1 or joint administrator of the law2 not1 as ,midshipman ,easy and the ,boatswain decided1 a corrector1 though the word also has that signification in ,spanish4 ,as regards the magistrate1 the second r is superfluous and etymologically deceptive4 ,,corrida4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,a racecourse2 bull-fight4 ,,cortamanga4 ,the word is not given in any dictionary that ,i have consulted4 ,borrow evidently alludes to a vulgar and obscene gesture1 usually called un corte de mangas4 ,it is made by bringing down the right hand on the left forearm1 and raising the left forearm1 with the middle finger of the left hand raised and the other fingers bent4 ,it is not under corte or manga either in ,covarrubia or the #agcj edit4 of the ,dic4 ,acad4 ,esp41 or more recent ones1 probably on account of its indecent signification4 ,i have never seen it written4 ,the finger part of the business is of course as old as the ,romans1 and survives still in ,italy4 ,,corte4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,the king's court2 more particularly the city where the court resides--thus the capital4 ,applied colloquially and in commercial correspondence to ,madrid1 ,lisbon1 ,rio ,janeiro1 etc4 ,,cortejo4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,a lover4 ,orig4 courtesy or homage4 ,cortejar to do homage to4 ,,cortes4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,the estates of the realm1 parliament4 ,,cortijo4 ,span4 ,farmhouse4 ,,cosas4 ,span4 ,things4 8,cosas de ,espaa10 8,cosas de ,inglaterra10 8,cosas de los ,ingleses40 ,colloquially equivalent to our1 8,how ,spanish60 8,quite ,english60 ,,crallis4 ,rom4 ,king4 ,the ,slavonian kral4 ,p4 ii4 #abc2 ,pp4 #bif2 ,m4 vii4 #hg4 ,,creer4 ,span4 ,to believe4 ,yo lo creo1 8,i believe you1 my boy60 8,you bet60 ,,cria4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,a brood4 ,,criscote4 ,rom4 ,a book4 ,see ,,gabicote4 ,,cristiano4 ,span4 ,christian4 ,used in ,spain for the ,spanish language4 ,,cristino4 ,span4 ,a partisan of ,queen ,christina4 ,,cruz4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,a cross2 also the withers of a horse or mule4 ,,cruzado4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,a coin worth about six shillings4 ,see ,burke's ,hist4 of ,spain1 ii4 #bhf4 ,,cuadrilla4 ,span4 ,a band4 ,,cuarto4 ,span4 ,a copper coin of the value of four maravedis1 or about one ,english farthing4 ,lit4 the fourth part of anything4 ,,cuenta4 ,span4 ,bill1 reckoning4 ,,cuesta4 ,span4 ,a hill1 or mount4 ,,cuidado4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,care1 anxiety4 ,the ,andalusians and ,gitanos say cuidao4 ,,cul4 ,arab4 ,every1 all4 ,,cura4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,parish priest4 ,fr4 cur2 not a 8curate40 ,the writer usually known as ,el ,cura de ,fruime 7i4 #dja7 was ,d4 ,diego ,antonio ,zernadas de ,castro1 born at ,santiago in #afih4 ,he wrote various works in verse and prose1 a complete edition of which1 in seven volumes1 was published by ,ibarra 7,madrid1 #aggh-ha71 and was followed by another1 in three volumes1 in #aghc-i-ij4 ,a biography of the author1 by ,d4 ,fernando ,fulgosio1 appeared in the ,revista de ,espaa1 tomos #bg1 #bh 7#ahgb74 ,there was another ,cura de ,fruime1 ,d4 ,antonio ,francisco de ,castro1 who was also a poet1 and who died in #ahcf4 ,,curelar4 ,rom4 ,to do business4 ,p4 ii4 #aaa2 ,pp4 #bha2 ,m4 vii4 #hh4 ,,curel4 ,rom4 ,trouble1 pain4 ,p4 ii4 #aae4 ,see ,,curelar4 ,,curioso4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,inquiring1 curious4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,dadas4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,given4 ,from dar4 ,,dai4 ,rom4 ,mother4 ,p4 ii4 #cji2 ,pp4 #aid2 ,m4 vii4 #dj4 ,,daoud4 ,arab4 ,light4 ,arab4 au4 ,daoud ,scharr au ash-sharr1 light of mischief4 ,,dar4 ,arab4 ,a house2 often found in composition as ,dar-sinah1 ,dar in#8ah 7ii4 #cfg71 the house of the arts1 or handicrafts2 ,dar-dwag1 ,dar dabbagh 7ii4 #cga71 the house of the bark1 or tannery4 ,,dehesa4 ,span4 ,pasture2 applied more particularly to large open tracts of country where the cattle can roam at large4 ,,demonio4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,demon1 devil4 ,,denho4 ,gal4 ,the devil2 used familiarly1 8the deuce40 ,,desembarcar4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,to disembark4 ,,desesperado4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,desperate2 a desperado4 ,,deshonesto4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,not 8dishonest10 but 8immodest1 lascivious40 ,,despacho4 ,span4 ,an office2 a dept4 ,used also of certain shops1 such as the bakers1 tobacco-sellers1 and others4 ,,despoblado4 ,span4 ,desert1 or waste lands4 ,lit4 depopulated2 the true history is seen in the etymology4 ,the word is applied to uncultivated desert1 or uninhabited parts of the country1 grazed for the most part by half wild sheep or cattle4 ,,despues4 ,span4 ,afterwards4 ,hasta despues1 8,au revoir40 ,,detras4 ,span4 ,behind4 ,see ,,tirar4 ,,diestro4 ,span4 ,skilful1 dexterous2 as a substantive1 a performer at a bull-feast1 also a fencer4 ,,dios4 ,span4 ,god4 ,,disparate4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,a blunder1 or extravagance4 ,as an interjection1 8,stuff and nonsense60 ,,djmah4 ,the name of a tower in ,tangier4 ,apparently the ,arab4 ,jami' mosque4 ,,doiro4 ,port4 ,of gold1 de oiro or ouro4 ,,don1 ,,do,a4 ,span4 ,,dom1 ,,dona4 ,port4 ,lord2 lady4 ,,donostian4 ,basque4 ,san ,sebastian4 ,,dorso4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,the back4 ,,dosta4 ,rom4 ,enough6 ,span4 basta6 ,p4 ii4 #cjh2 ,m4 vii4 #de4 ,,doubloon4 ,eng4 ,a gold coin4 ,span4 doblon4 ,see ,burke's ,hist4 of ,spain1 ii4 #bhd4 ,,drao4 ,rom4 ,poison4 ,p4 ii4 #caf2 ,pp4 #bae2 ,m4 vii4 #de4 ,,drom,,lis4 ,rom4 ,carriers1 muleteers1 men of the road4 ,p4 ii4 #cai4 ,see ,,drun4 ,,drun1 ,,drom4 ,rom4 ,a road4 ,grk4 4 ,p4 ii4 #cah2 ,pp4 #bae2 ,m4 vii4 #df4 ,,drungruje1 better ,,drongrugi or ,,drunji4 ,rom4 ,the king's highway2 also a bridle-path4 ,see ,,drun4 ,,duende4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,a ghost1 or hobgoblin4 ,in ,germana1 or thieves' slang the watch1 patrol4 ,,duffel4 ,o4 ,eng4 ,a coarse woollen cloth1 said to have been first made at ,duffel1 near ,amsterdam4 ,,durotun4 ,a shepherd4 ,probably connected with dur far1 ,p4 ii4 #cag2 ,m4 vii4 #dh4 ,it is worth noticing that we find ,gorotun a native of ,estremadura1 which looks like a pun1 ,p4 i4 #ed1 so too ,j41 who has also oroturn a mountaineer1 which suits the idea4 ,,dwag4 ,see ,,dar4 99 99 99 99 99 ,e1 ,es4 ,rom4 ,genitive1 sing4 and plur41 of the article ,o4 ,e4 ,port4 ,and4 ,,eidri4 ,see ,,shillam4 ,,ellegren4 ,stated by ,borrow to be a ,scand4 word1 meaning 8elfin plant10 but the dictionaries do not give it4 ,elle1 however1 in composition fairy1 in ,danish2 and gren bough1 in ,danish1 ,norse1 and ,swedish4 ,,emb,o4 ,rom4 ,a book4 ,p4 ii4 #fb4 ,,embustero4 ,span4 ,impostor1 cheat1 schemer2 from embuste1 a deceit1 false or fraudulent scheme1 snare4 ,,encina4 ,span4 ,an oak4 ,,endemoniado4 ,span4 ,possessed by the devil4 ,,enganchar4 ,span4 ,to enlist as a soldier4 ,prim4 to hook2 gancho1 a hook4 ,,ensayo4 ,span4 ,an essay1 attempt4 ,,entender4 ,span4 ,to understand4 ,,entero4 ,span4 ,an entire horse1 or stallion4 ,as an adjective1 entire1 perfect1 complete4 ,,errate4 ,rom4 ,a respectful appellation of the gypsy race1 used by them of their own race4 ,from ,rom4 rat1 blood2 the people of the same blood2 our blood relations4 ,p4 ii4 #bgb2 ,pp4 #deg2 ,m4 viii4 #ef4 ,,erray4 ,rom4 ,gentleman4 ,more commonly1 rai2 in ,eng4 ,rom41 rye4 ,p4 ii4 #bfd2 ,pp4 #dec2 ,m4 viii4 #ed4 ,,erregui,a4 ,basque4 ,queen4 ,borrow is mistaken in connecting this word with ,sanscrit4 ,it is simply the ,lat4 regina4 ,,erudito4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,learned4 ,,escapado4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,escaped1 a runaway4 ,,esclivitud4 ,span4 ,slavery4 ,,escoc,s4 ,span4 ,scotch4 ,,escondido4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,adj4 hidden4 ,,escopeta4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,a gun4 ,,escribano4 ,span4 ,a notary1 or his clerk4 ,lit4 a writer4 ,,escuchar4 ,span4 ,to listen4 ,escuchad6 8,listen60 ,,escuela4 ,span4 ,a school4 ,,eso4 ,span4 ,that4 ,que es eso8 8,what's that80 ,,espa,a4 ,span4 ,spain4 ,see i4 #cda4 ,,espa,,ol4 ,spanish4 ,,espinal1 ,,espinar4 ,span4 ,a thorny thicket2 place of thorns4 ,,espingarda4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,a musket4 ,,espinheiro4 ,port4 ,a thorn-tree4 ,,estadea4 ,port4 ,,estadai,a4 ,gal4 ,dimin4 ,,estadinha4 7#a7 ,a skeleton1 or death's-head2 a nocturnal procession of the spirits of the dead4 7#b7 ,a witches' 8sabbath20 for which last the ,galician compaa is also used4 ,,estalagem4 ,port4 ,an inn4 ,,estar4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,to be4 ,,estaripel4 ,rom4 ,a prison4 ,p4 ii4 #bdf2 ,pp4 #adf4 ,,sc4 #ada4 ,,estrangero4 ,span4 ,strange1 foreign4 ,,estremou4 ,rom4 ,,estreme,o4 ,span4 ,an inhabitant of the province of ,estremadura4 ,,euscarra4 ,basque4 ,used by ,borrow 7ch4 xxxvii47 for the ,basque name of their own tongue2 more commonly1 ,escualdun1 ,escualdunac2 a word in any case of very uncertain origin4 ,see ,burke's ,hist4 of ,spain1 vol4 i4 ,app4 ,i41 ,,the ,,basques4 ,,exemplo4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,example1 pattern4 ,por exemplo1 for instance4 ,,extenderse4 ,span4 ,to extend1 stretch4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,fabrica4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,manufactory4 ,,faccioso4 ,span4 ,as an adjective1 factious2 more often used by ,borrow as a substantive1 with the special signification1 in the years #ahcj-ahdj1 of a disaffected or factious person2 a rebel2 a ,carlist4 ,f,,ilte4 ,irish4 ,welcomes4 ,,faja1 ,,faxa4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,a thick waist-band1 usually of silk1 often red1 and a characteristic portion of the dress of a great majority of ,spaniards4 ,the ,indian kamarband4 ,from the ,lat4 fascia1 a girth1 or band4 ,,fango4 ,span4 ,mire1 mud4 ,,farol4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,strictly speaking1 a lantern2 used by ,borrow for ,,faro1 a lighthouse4 ,they are1 of course1 equally the ancient ,grk4 4 ,,fato4 ,port4 ,a herd2 a multitude4 ,span4 hato4 ,,felouk1 ,,feloque4 ,eng4 ,a boat1 felucca4 ,arab4 faluka1 falak ship4 ,,ferioul4 ,arab4 ,a sort of shawl thrown over the shoulders4 ,arab4 farwl4 ,,fidalgo4 ,port4 ,a gentleman4 ,the ,spanish hidalgo filius alicujus1 the son of some one4 ,,filimicha4 ,rom4 ,the gallows4 ,found in ,borrow1 and ,j42 ,pott1 ii4 #cid1 simply quotes it from the former4 ,,fino4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,fine1 excellent1 sharp4 ,,fonda4 ,span4 ,hotel4 ,according to ,diez1 from ,latin funda1 a sling1 or a purse1 which has also given the ,french bourse and ,spanish bolsa1 an assembly of paying persons4 ,see ,,posada4 ,,fora4 ,port4 and ,gal4 ,outside1 without4 ,,foro1 ,,foros4 ,rom4 ,city1 or town4 ,p4 ii4 #cic2 ,pp4 #bcd2 ,m4 vii4 #ec4 ,,forte4 ,port4 ,strong4 ,,fregona4 ,span4 ,a scullery maid4 ,,friolera4 ,span4 ,a trifle4 ,lat4 futilitas4 ,,fuente4 ,span4 ,a fount1 spring4 ,,fueron4 ,span4 ,they were4 ,from ser4 ,,fueros4 ,span4 ,local privileges4 ,,funcion4 ,span4 ,a solemnity2 festival2 public assemblage of people to do or see some important act4 ,in military language1 an action2 then colloquially1 8a row40 ,the barbarous ,english adaptation1 function1 is convenient1 and is rapidly gaining ground4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,gabardine4 ,o4 ,eng4 ,a long coat1 or cloak1 usually applied to the distinctive dress worn by the ,jews under compulsion4 ,said to be from the ,spanish and ,old ,french gaban1 a great coarse cloak with a hood1 a word itself supposed to be connected with capa4 ,,gabicote4 ,rom4 ,book4 ,borrow seems the only authority for this word4 ,j4 has gascote4 ,p4 ii4 #ade4 ,,gabin4 ,rom4 ,a ,frenchman4 ,p4 i4 #ed1 ii4 #ade4 ,,gachapla4 ,rom4 ,a couplet1 in poetry4 ,span4 copla4 ,p4 ii4 #da4 ,,gach4 ,rom4 ,any one who is not a gypsy2 the same as ,rom4 busn4 ,p4 ii4 #abi2 ,pp4 #bce2 ,m4 vii4 #ec2 ,mc,r4 #ic4 ,,galera4 ,span4 ,a long cart without springs2 the sides are lined with matting1 while beneath hangs a loose open net1 as under the calesinas of ,naples1 in which lies and barks a horrid dog1 who keeps a cerberus watch over iron pots and sieves1 and suchlike gypsy utensils1 and who is never to be conciliated4--,ford's ,spain1 ,introd4 p4 #cg4 ,,gallego4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,galician2 usually ,anglicized by ,borrow as ,gallegan4 ,the ,roman ,gallaeci or ,callaeci4 ,,gallineria4 ,span4 ,a hen-coop2 a place for keeping gallinas1 or chickens4 ,,galoot 7,galth74 ,hebr4 ,bondage1 captivity4 8,the galoot of sin40 ,in the slang of the ,united ,states the word means 8a simpleton40 ,,garbanzos4 ,span4 ,chick-pease 7,cicer arietinum74 ,the invariable vegetable in every olla and puchero4 ,,garlochin4 ,rom4 ,heart4 ,see ,,carlo4 ,,garnata4 ,arab4 ,granada4 ,see ,,melegrana4 ,,garrote4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,the death penalty by strangulation1 in which an iron collar fixed to a post is tightened by a screw and receives the neck of the culprit1 which is broken by a sharp turn given by the executioner4 ,garrote also means a cudgel1 or heavy walking-stick2 and the tourniquet used by surgeons4 ,it is a word of strange and uncertain etymology1 and is said to be connected with ,span4 garra1 a claw1 ,fr4 jarret1 a thigh1 and other apparently incongruous words4 ,,gazpacho4 ,a dish in the nature of a vegetable salad very popular in ,spain1 made of bread1 onions1 potatoes1 tomatoes1 garlic1 garbanzos or chick-peas1 with oil and seasoning of various kinds4 ,the etymology is uncertain4 ,,gefatura4 ,span4 ,office of the following4 ,,gefe4 ,span4 ,chief4 ,gefe politico corregidor1 q4v4 ,,gelaba4 ,arab4 ,a long cloak4 ,arab4 jilbb4 ,,genio4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,genius2 spirit4 ,,genoui1 dimin4 ,,genouillos4 ,moor4 ,a ,genoese1 ,genoese children4 ,,gente1 ,,jente4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,people4 ,,german,a4 ,span4 ,according to the dictionaries1 the dialect or mode of speech used by gypsies1 thieves1 and ruffians1 to prevent their being understood1 in which they give special meanings to ordinary words 7e4g4 aguila1 eagle a clever thief71 or invent words of their own 7e4g4 almifor horse74 ,no doubt ,germana contains gypsy words1 but it is no more identical with ,romany than are the ,fr4 ,argot or the ,eng4 ,cant4 ,see ,z4 ii4 #abi4 ,,gibil4 ,arab4 ,a hill4 ,,ginete4 ,span4 ,a good horseman4 la gineta1 in the ,moorish style 7of riding74 ,diez1 strangely enough1 would derive this ,arab or ,moorish word from the ,grk4 1 a naked or light-armed foot soldier4 ,it is really derived from the proper name ,zeneta1 a ,berber tribe who furnished the finest horsemen to the ,spanish ,moors 7,cron4 ,alfonso ,x41 fo4 #f d1 an4 #abfc74 ,in ,catalan the word has become janetz4 ,our ,english word 8jennet0 may be derived from the same source4 ,,girar4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,to turn round4 ,,gitana4 ,thieves' slang4 ,twelve ounces of bread4 ,see i4 #agg4 ,,gitano4 ,span4 ,a gypsy4 ,a corrupted form of ,egiptiano1 an ,egyptian4 ,r4 #bfi2 ,mc,r4 #aji4 ,see ,,zincalo4 ,,godo4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,a ,goth2 ,gothic4 ,,goh4 ,pers4 ,mountain4 ,more correctly1 koh4 ,,gonfaloniera4 ,ital4 ,standard-bearer4 ,,gr1 ,,gras1 ,,graste1 ,,gry4 ,rom4 ,a horse4 ,p4 ii4 #ade2 ,a4 #cc2 ,pp4 #bdi2 ,m4 vii4 #eh4 ,,gracia4 ,span4 ,,gratia4 ,lat4 ,grace4 ,,granja4 ,span4 ,a grange1 farm4 ,la ,granja1 the royal palace at ,san ,ildefonso4 ,,greco4 ,ital4 ,,griego4 ,span4 ,greek4 ,,guapo1 ,,guapito4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,gay1 neat1 clever1 elegant1 gallant4 ,,guardacostas4 ,span4 ,a revenue cutter4 ,,guardia4 ,span4 ,a guard1 watch4 ,,guerilla4 ,span4 ,lit4 little war4 ,irregular warfare to which the ,spaniards have ever been so much addicted4 ,the guerrillero is the irregular soldier1 or armed paisano1 who wages this little war4 ,,guerra4 ,span4 ,war4 ,,guissan4 ,basque4 ,according to4 ,it is an adaptation of the ,fr4 guise1 ,span4 guisa4 ,the regular ,basque words are arabera1 araura4 ,aizquibel1 ,basque-,spanish ,dict41 gives the form gisara4 ,,gurs,,an4 ,moor4 ,the giant aloe4 ,span4 pita4 ,apud ,borrow1 ii4 #bgf4 ,,gusto4 ,span4 7#a7 ,taste1 lit4 or fig4 7#b7 ,fancy1 caprice1 wish4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,haber4 ,span4 ,to have4 ,hay1 there are4 ,no hay mas8 ,are there no more8 ,,habla4 ,span4 ,speech4 ,,hablar4 ,span4 ,to speak4 ,lat4 fabulare4 ,,hacer4 ,span4 ,to do1 make4 ,el har el gusto por ,v1 ,he will do what you want4 ,,hada1 ,,hade4 ,arab4 ,this4 ,,haik4 ,arab4 ,a white cloth worn over the head by the ,moors4 ,,haimas4 ,arab4 ,tents4 ,more correctly1 aimat1 plur4 iym4 ,,haji4 ,arab41 ,turk41 and ,grk4 ,one who having made the haj1 or pilgrimage1 to ,mecca1 is entitled to wear a green turban and assume the title of haji4 ,but the same title1 strange to say1 is assumed by orthodox ,christians who have made a pilgrimage to ,jerusalem2 and ,haji ,yanco is quite as common a title or mode of address in the ,levant as ,haji ,ibrahm4 ,,halal4 ,arab4 ,lawful4 ,,haloof4 ,berber4 ,hog's flesh4 ,more correctly1 alluf4 ,,hamal4 ,arab4 ,porter1 carrier4 ,more correctly1 amml4 ,,hanutz4 ,arab4 ,shop4 ,more correctly1 ant4 ,,har,m4 ,arab4 and ,hebr4 ,forbidden4 ,akin to this is harem4 ,,hasta4 ,span4 ,until4 ,see ,,despues4 ,,hato4 ,span4 ,a herd1 a multitude4 ,port4 fato4 ,,hax ,,weib1 ,,hax4 ,germ4 ,a witch4 ,a wrong form of ,hexe ,weib or ,hexe1 a witch1 or female wizard4 ,,hayim4 ,hebr4 ,living4 ,more correctly1 hayyim4 ,,heller4 ,germ4 ,a copper coin in use in ,germany previous to #ahdh2 in value about one farthing4 ,,herencia4 ,span4 ,heritage1 inheritance4 ,,herrador4 ,span4 ,a blacksmith4 ,,hidalgo4 ,span4 ,see ,,fidalgo4 ,,higuera4 ,span4 ,a fig-tree4 ,,hijo4 ,span4 ,a son4 ,lat4 filius4 ,,hinai4 ,arab4 ,here4 ,,hok4 ,rom4 ,deceit1 falsehood1 fraud4 ,hokka1 to lie2 hokkawar1 to cheat4 ,hokkano1 in ,eng4 ,rom41 a lie4 ,p4 ii4 #afj2 ,a4 #cg2 ,pp4 #cag2 ,m4 vii4 #fc4 ,hokkano baro1 the great trick4 ,see ,z4 i4 #caj2 ,,ll4 #bdd2 ,lel4 #ceb2 ,gr4 #ceg4 ,,hombre4 ,span4 ,,homme4 ,fr4 ,a man ,,horca4 ,span4 ,the gallows4 ,,horno4 ,span4 ,oven4 ,,houris4 ,arab4 ,the women of the ,moslem ,paradise4 ,plural of the ,arab1 awr black-eyed4 ,,hsheesh4 ,arab4 ,i4e4 ashish1 a preparation of hemp4 ,,hu,,je4 ,arab4 ,things4 ,huje del ,mselmeen1 more correctly1 awij el ,muslimn1 things of the ,moslems4 ,,hueso4 ,span4 ,a bone4 ,,hundunar1 ,,jundunar4 ,rom4 ,a soldier4 ,p4 ii4 #agb2 ,r4 #bid4 ,j4 gives jundo1 jundonal4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,ichasoa4 ,basque4 ,the sea4 ,the verse quoted by ,borrow 7ii4 #aah7 more accurately runs thus-- 8,ichasoa urac handi4 7,the iea--the water--large7 ,eztu ondoric aguerri-- 7,there is not--any bottom--manifest7 ,pasaco ninsaqueni andic 7,to pass--,i could be able--thence7 ,maitea icustea gatic40 7,the beloved--the seeing1 i4e4 to see--for74 ,,infamia4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,infamy4 ,,infante4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,prince4 ,,inglaterra4 ,span4 ,england4 ,,ingles4 ,span4 ,english4 ,inglesito6 8,my little ,englishman60 ,,inquisicion4 ,span4 ,the ,inquisition4 ,,inshallah4 ,arab4 ,please ,god6 ,,instancia4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,instance1 prosecution4 ,see note1 ii4 #ada4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,jabador4 ,apparently a ,hispanized form of the ,african ,arabic jabdali a gold-embroidered waistcoat4 ,,jaca1 or ,,haca4 ,span4 ,a pony1 or small riding horse4 ,,jara ,,canallis4 ,rom4 ,the only authority ,i have succeeded in finding for this word is ,z4 ii4 99 #fa4 8,jaracaales1 guards1 officers of the revenue40 ,it may possibly be derived from the ,bohemian gypsy xro1 ,hungarian hro sabre1 and the ,span4 canalla1 but ,i have no reason to suppose that the word xro or hro was known to the gypsies of ,spain4 ,,jargon4 ,eng4 ,originally a ,fr4 word1 meaning any unintelligible sound1 as that of birds1 then applied to the strange speech of the ,gueux2 and so to any unknown tongue4 ,borrow himself says of the gypsies1 8when wishing to praise the proficiency of any individual in their tongue1 they are in the habit of saying1 #8,he understands the seven jargons'0 7,z4 ii4 #abe74 ,frampton ,boswell is recorded 7,g4 i4 #cgd7 to have stated that ,romany was not one of 8the seven languages10 8but10 adds ,mr4 ,hinde ,groome1 8what he meant thereby1 goodness alone knows40 ,the historian ,mazaris 7,a4,d4 #adaf7 states that at that time the ,peloponnesus was inhabited by seven principal nations1 one of which was that of the ,egyptians4 ,these 8,egyptians0 are held by ,m4 ,bataillard to have been gypsies 7ib4 iii4 #aed71 and ,i would suggest that we have here the origin of 8the seven jargons40 ,the number seven seems to be in a special way connected with the children of ,roma4 ,for other instances see ,leland1 ,english ,gypsies1 p4 #bah2 ,gr4 #aga4 ,,jaun1 ,,jauna4 ,basque4 ,lord1 the lord4 ,,jaungvicoa4 ,basque4 ,the ,lord ,god4 ,jaun man1 sir1 lord2 ,gincoa or ,jincoa ,god4 ,,jehinnim4 ,arab4 and ,hebr4 ,hell4 ,,jennut4 ,arab4 ,paradise4 ,usually written1 jannat4 ,,jente4 ,span4 ,see ,,gente4 ,,jin4 ,arab4 ,in classic ,english1 genie 7,arabic and ,persian jinn71 a class of spirits lower than the angels4 ,,joh,r4 ,arab4 ,a pearl4 ,,jojabar1 ,,jonjabar4 ,rom4 ,to deceive4 ,from jojna1 deceit4 ,see ,,hok4 ,,jorge1 dimin4 ,,jorgito4 ,span4 ,george4 ,,jorobado4 ,span4 ,a hunchback4 ,the verb jorobar means 8to worry40 ,,juez4 ,span4 ,a judge4 ,,jumal4 ,arab4 ,friday4 ,more correctly1 jum#8a4 ,,junta4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,an assembly1 meeting1 council1 governing body4 ,,juntun4 ,rom4 ,a listener1 spy1 sneak4 ,from junar1 junelar1 to listen4 ,p4 ii4 #bba2 ,pp4 #dig2 ,m4 viii4 #ge4 ,,justicia4 ,span4 ,a legal tribunal1 or the magistrate or magistrates who constitute it4 ,absol1 justice4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,kafir4 ,arab4 ,not a ,moslem4 ,,kandrisa4 ,according to ,borrow1 ,turkish trousers4 ,possibly the same as the ,african ,arabic an dra long shirt1 toga talaris4 ,,kapul ,,udbagh4 ,according to ,borrow 8,there is no ,god but one40 ,,kauk4 ,hebr4 ,the furred cap of ,jerusalem1 according to ,borrow4 ,we may perhaps compare a1 stated by ,redhouse in his ,turkish ,diet1 to be a peculiar plumed head-dress worn by field-officers of the ,janissaries4 ,,kawar4 ,arab4 ,an uncommon word1 meaning1 no doubt1 a cemetery1 being a corrupt form of abr1 a tomb4 ,,kebir4 ,arab4 ,great4 ,,ker1 ,,quer4 ,rom4 ,a house4 ,p4 ii4 #aec2 ,pp4 #bgi2 ,m4 vii4 #gi2 ,g4 i4 #agh4 ,,kermous ,,del ,,inde4 ,arab4 ,a fruit2 the prickly pear4 ,,kistur1 ,,kester4 ,rom4 ,to ride4 ,p4 ii4 #abb2 ,,sc4 refer to uklist1 ,pp4 #efj2 ,a4 #ad2 ,m4 viii4 #hi4 ,borrow derives it from the ,wallachian keleri4 ,perhaps from the ,grk4 4 ,,kj,,mpe4 ,scand4 ,a champion4 ,cf4 8,kempion the kingis son0 in the ballad that bears his name4 ,,knaw4 ,rom4 ,now4 ,p4 ii4 #abd2 ,pp4 #acj2 ,m4 vii4 #e4 ,,kosko1 ,,kooshto4 ,rom4 ,good4 ,p4 ii4 #aeg4 ,this is an ,eng4 ,rom4 word4 ,continental gypsies use latch1 misht4 ,,kyrie4 ,grk4 1 sir1 my lord4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,labrador4 ,span4 ,cultivator1 rustic1 peasant4 ,labrar1 to till the ground4 ,l,,cha4 ,rom4 ,maidenhead1 virginity4 ,z4 ii4 #g2 ,p4 ii4 #cca2 ,pp4 #cbe2 ,m4 viii4 #d4 ,,lachip4 ,rom4 ,silk4 ,i cannot explain this word1 unless it is connected with the following4 ,,lach1 fem4 ,,lach4 ,rom4 ,good4 ,p4 ii4 #cbi2 ,a4 #di2 ,pp4 #cbh2 ,m4 viii4 #d4 ,,ladr,,es4 ,port4 ,plur4 of ladro1 a thief4 ,lat4 latro4 ,,lalor4 ,rom4 ,the ,portuguese4 ,,lalor1 the red land4 ,eng4 ,rom4 ,lotto 7cf4 ,jackanapes1 p4 #bh74 ,p4 i4 #ed1 ii4 #cch2 ,pp4 #cbh1 #cci2 ,m4 viii4 #h4 ,,lapurrac4 ,basque4 ,the thieves4 ,,largo4 ,port4 ,a square1 or public place in a town4 ,,lectura4 ,span4 ,reading4 ,,len4 ,rom4 ,a river4 ,len baro1 the great river2 ,wady al ,kebir1 the ,guadalquivir4 ,p4 ii4 #ccf2 ,pp4 #ccc2 ,m4 viii4 #f4 ,,levantarse4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,to raise one's self1 rise4 ,,le4 ,span4 ,to him4 ,,li1 ,,lil4 ,rom4 ,paper2 a letter1 passport1 book4 ,p4 ii4 #cbi1 #cci2 ,a4 #dh2 ,pp4 #ccd2 ,m4 viii4 #g4 ,,lib4 ,hebr4 ,heart4 ,more correctly1 leb4 ,,liceo4 ,span4 ,school1 college4 ,,lilipendi4 ,rom4 ,a simpleton4 ,akin to ,,lil1 q4v4 ,,lil1 fem4 ,,lil4 ,rom4 ,foolish1 mad4 ,p4 ii4 #cdj4 ,,limosna1 dimin4 ,,limosnita4 ,span4 ,alms1 charity4 ,,lindo4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,beautiful1 pretty4 ,,liri4 ,rom4 ,law4 ,p4 ii4 #cdj4 ,,llavero4 ,span4 ,turnkey4 ,,loco4 ,span4 ,mad4 ,,lombo4 ,port4 ,loin4 ,,london4 ,rom4 ,an ,englishman2 lit4 a ,londoner4 ,so ,b41 but it is probably plural4 ,p4 i4 #ed4 ,,longanizero4 ,span4 ,sausage-maker4 ,,lontra4 ,port4 ,otter4 ,span4 nutria4 8,l0 for 8,n0 is characteristic4 ,,loor4 ,old ,span4 ,praise4 ,,lume4 ,port4 ,light4 ,,lumia4 ,rom4 ,a harlot4 ,p4 ii4 #ccd2 ,pp4 #cdb2 ,m4 viii4 #i2 ,g4 i4 #agh4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,ma4 ,arab4 ,not4 ,,macho1 ,,macha4 ,span4 ,a mule1 male or female4 ,considering that1 even in ,spanish1 macho did1 and does1 signify a male animal of any kind--being an abbreviation of the ,latin masculus--macha1 a she-mule1 is rather a strange word6 ,,madrilati4 ,rom4 ,madrid4 ,also ,adal1 ,j4 ,in thieves' slang also ,gao 7 gav1 a town71 ,z4 ii4 99 #ed4 ,but ,h4 gives gao piojo 7a louse74 ,,maha4 ,sanscr4 ,great4 ,persian mih4 ,,mahasni1 plur4 ,,makhasniah4 ,arab4 ,soldiers4 ,more correctly1 men of the garrison2 defenders4 ,,mai4 ,port4 ,mother4 ,,mailla4 ,rom4 ,a she-ass4 ,p4 ii4 #ded4 ,apparently only found in ,eng4 ,romany4 ,,majar4 ,rom4 ,holy4 ,p4 ii4 #dfb4 ,,majo1 ,,maja4 ,dandy2 fancy man or girl4 ,majo1 scarcely to be rendered in any foreign language1 is a word of more general signification than manolo1 q4v4 ,the one is a dandy1 or smart fellow1 all over ,spain2 the other is used only of a certain class in ,madrid4 ,,majoon4 ,i cannot find this word1 but it is apparently the name of some intoxicating substance1 and is probably connected with the ,arabic majnn possessed by a jinn1 mad4 ,,makhiah4 ,arab4 ,brandy made of figs4 ,more correctly1 ma'iyya4 ,,malo4 ,span4 ,bad1 wicked4 ,,malvado4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,malicious1 evil disposed4 ,,man4 ,rom4 ,me4 ,p4 i4 #bbi2 ,pp4 #ff2 ,m4 xi4 #bb4 ,,manolo4 ,span4 ,manolo is a somewhat difficult word to translate4 ,it is applied to the flash or fancy man and his manola in ,madrid only2 a class fond of pleasure1 of fine clothes1 of bull-fights1 and of sunshine1 with a code of honour of their own2 men and women rather picturesque than exemplary1 and eminently racy of the soil4 ,,manr4 ,rom4 ,bread or corn4 ,estremadura is thus called ,chim del ,manr1 8,the ,land of ,corn40 ,p4 ii4 #ddj2 ,pp4 #cej2 ,m4 viii4 #ab4 ,given as marron1 ,g4 i4 #agg4 ,,manta4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,a woollen blanket4 manta de ,dios copiously4 ,the word has nothing to do with the national cloak of ,spain1 which is la capa4 ,,mantilla4 ,span4 ,the characteristic headdress of ,spanish ladies1 of black silk or lace1 drawn over the back of the head and shoulders4 ,dimin4 of manta4 ,,mar4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,sea4 ,,maraved4 ,span4 ,a coin of various weights and values4 ,see ,burke's ,history of ,spain1 ii4 #bhb4 ,,marequita4 ,span4 ,dimin4 of ,maria4 ,,mariposa4 ,span4 ,a butterfly2 a night light4 ,,mas4 ,span4 ,more4 ,,matador4 ,span4 and ,port4 7#a7 ,a slayer1 murderer4 7#b7 ,the man who kills the bull4 ,see note1 i4 #agj4 ,,mato4 ,port4 ,a forest2 or more exactly1 a wild country1 full of bushes and thickets4 ,,maughrabie4 ,arab4 ,a ,borrovian adaptation of the ,arabic ,al ,maghrib1 the west1 signifying ,mauretania1 or ,north-,western ,africa4 ,,mayim4 ,hebr4 ,waters4 ,,mayor4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,greater4 ,,mayordomo4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,house steward1 or major-domo4 ,,mearrah4 ,hebr4 and ,arab4 ,cemetery4 ,lit4 a cave4 ,hebr4 m#8arah1 ,arab4 maghrah4 ,,meclis1 ,,meklis4 ,eng4 ,rom4 ,leave off6 have done6 8#8,meklis1' said ,mrs4 ,chikno1 #8pray drop all that1 sister'0 7,the ,romany ,rye1 ch4 v474 ,p4 ii4 #aab1 #dcd2 ,pp4 #cfi2 ,m4 viii4 #ai4 ,,medico4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,a physician4 ,,meforshim4 ,hebr4 ,the commentators4 ,more correctly1 m'fr'shim4 ,,meiga4 ,port4 and ,gal4 ,a female sharper1 fortune-teller1 or sorceress4 ,the adjective meigo1 in ,spanish mego1 has the signification of gentle1 kind1 mild4 ,,melegrana4 ,rom4 ,granada4 ,from the ,ital4 melagrana1 a pomegranate2 ,span4 granada4 ,see note1 #cge4 ,,mendi4 ,basque4 ,a mountain4 ,see note to ,ingles ,mendi1 ii4 #cad4 ,,mercado4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,a market1 or market-place4 ,,merced4 ,span4 7#a7 ,favour1 grace1 mercy4 7#b7 ,a day labourer's pay1 or wages4 7#c7 ,in combination1 vuestra merced1 your worship1 your honour1 etc42 written ,v4 or ,vd4 and pronounced usted4 ,,mesuna4 ,rom4 ,a wayside inn1 or posada1 q4v4 ,p4 ii4 #dc1 #dfc4 ,,mezquita4 ,span4 ,a mosque4 ,m,,la4 ,irish4 ,a thousand4 ,,milagro4 ,span4 ,a miracle4 ,,min4 ,rom4 ,my1 mine4 ,p4 i4 #bcg2 ,pp4 #fi2 ,m4 xi4 #cj4 ,,min4 ,arab4 ,from4 ,,mirar4 ,span4 ,to look4 ,,miseria4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,misery1 wretchedness2 also niggardliness1 stinginess4 ,,moderado4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,moderate4 ,the name assumed by the more royalist members of the ,cristino party4 ,see i4 #ahj4 ,,modo4 ,span4 and ,port4 7#a7 ,measure2 7#b7 courtesy1 urbanity4 ,v4 no tiene modo1 8,you've got no manners40 ,,moidore4 ,o4 ,eng4 ,portuguese moeda d'ouro golden money1 was a gold piece of the value of about twenty-six shillings4 ,,mona4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,a she-monkey4 ,,monr4 ,rom4 ,a friend2 in thieves' slang1 an adult4 ,z4 ii4 #adi2 ,p4 ii4 #dec2 ,m4 viii4 #ah4 ,,montana4 ,span4 ,a hill1 mountain4 ,,monte4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,a hill1 mountain4 ,,montera4 ,span4 ,a hunting-cap1 a ,montero cap4 ,,montero4 ,span4 ,a hunter2 originally1 a mountaineer4 ,,moro4 ,span4 ,moorish4 ,,mostrador4 ,span4 ,the counter1 of a shop4 ,,mozo4 ,span4 ,a youth1 or lad2 moza1 a girl4 ,,mselmeen4 ,arab4 ,moslems4 ,see ,,hu,,je4 ,,muchacho1 ,,muchacha4 ,spn4 ,boy2 girl4 ,,mucho4 ,span4 ,much4 ,,muger1 ,,mujer4 ,span4 ,woman2 wife4 ,,mujik1 ,,muzhik4 ,russ4 ,a peasant4 ,it may be added that their popular song1 8,come1 let us cut the cabbage0 7i4 #age71 is not1 as might be supposed1 an exhortation to horticultural pursuits4 8,to cut the cabbage0 is a slang expression among the ,slavs for killing a ,turk1 in allusion to the green turbans worn by the descendants of the prophet4 ,,muk4 ,rom4 ,let1 allow4 ,see ,,meclis4 ,,mundo4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,world4 ,,mushee4 ,arab4 ,i4e4 ma not1 shee thing4 ,,muy4 ,span4 ,very1 much4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,nacional4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,a ,nationalist2 a member of the ,national ,guard4 ,,nada4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,nothing4 ,,nahi4 ,rom4 ,translated by ,borrow1 lost4 ,if so1 perhaps connected with najabar1 to lose4 ,p4 ii4 #cbd2 ,pp4 #cha2 ,m4 viii4 #bc4 ,possibly1 however1 it is only a negative is not4 ,p4 i4 #cai2 ,a4 #gj4 ,,nao4 ,port4 ,ship4 ,,narangero4 ,span4 ,an orange-seller4 ,,nava4 ,span4 ,a plain4 ,,ndui4 ,hebr4 ,a kind of hell1 or purgatory1 according to ,borrow1 who puts the word into the mouth of his ,lisbon ,jews4 ,it is1 apparently1 the ,hebr4 niddui ban1 excommunication4 ,,nefsky4 ,russ4 ,of the ,neva4 ,,negro4 ,span4 and ,port4 7#a7 ,black2 7#b7 a negro1 or ,african2 7#c7 the nickname given by the ,basque ,carlists to the ,cristinos1 or ,constitutionalists1 #ahcc-ahci4 ,,nicabar4 ,rom4 ,to take away1 steal1 destroy4 ,p4 ii4 #cbf2 ,pp4 #cij2 ,m4 viii4 #be4 ,,niri4 ,basque4 ,my1 mine4 ,,noche4 ,span4 ,night4 ,,nombre4 ,span4 ,name4 ,,novillo4 ,span4 ,a young bull4 ,see note1 i4 #cfa4 ,,novio4 ,span4 ,bridegroom1 betrothed4 ,,nuar4 ,arab4 ,flowers4 ,more correctly1 nawr4 ,,nuestro4 ,span4 ,our4 ,,nuveiro4 ,this word is neither ,castilian1 ,galician1 nor ,portuguese2 but is a made-up or fancy word1 from the ,portuguese nuvem1 a cloud2 a cloud man1 or supernatural being4 99 99 99 99 99 ,o4 ,rom4 ,the4 4 ,span4 ,or4 ,,obispo4 ,span4 ,bishop4 ,,ojalateros4 ,span4 8,waiters upon ,providence40 ,a burlesque word4 ,see note1 i4 #afi4 ,,onza4 ,span4 ,a coin of the value of about #c #fs4 #h;d42 lit4 an ounce of gold4 ,also known as the doblon de #h2 ,anglicized as 8piece of eight40 ,,ora,,am1 ,,ora,o4 ,port4 ,a prayer4 ,,otro4 ,span4 ,other4 ,no hay otro en el mundo1 8,there's none like it in the world40 ,,oulem4 ,hebr4 ,of the world4 ,arab4 #8olam4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,pach4 ,rom4 ,modesty1 honour1 virginity4 ,p4 ii4 #cdg4 ,,paciencia4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,patience4 ,,pa,o4 ,port4 ,the ,court4 ,,padre4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,father4 ,,padrino4 ,span4 7#a7 ,sponsor1 godfather2 7#b7 second--in a duel4 ,,padron4 ,span4 ,patron1 landlord4 ,,pahan4 ,phn4 ,a rabbit4 ,,paisano4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,a countryman2 not a peasant1 but a man of the same country as another2 a compatriot4 ,as the conventional answer to the challenge1 8,quien vive80 by a ,spanish sentry1 it means 8,civilian40 ,,pajandi4 ,rom4 ,a guitar4 ,according to ,borrow1 lit4 8the thing that is touched or played upon40 ,p4 ii4 #cfi1 #dbf4 ,,pajaria4 ,span4 ,straw-market4 ,the place where straw is kept is ,,pajar4 ,,pal4 ,rom4 ,see ,,plan4 ,,palabra4 ,span4 ,a word4 ,,palomar4 ,span4 ,a dovecote4 ,,pan4 ,span4 ,bread4 ,,panhagia4 ,grk4 ,lit4 ,all-holy4 ,the ,virgin ,mary4 ,,pan4 ,see ,,pawnee4 ,,pa,,uelo4 ,span4 ,a handkerchief4 ,lit4 a little cloth4 ,,papas4 ,grk4 ,a priest 774 ,,para4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,for4 ,,parn4 ,rom4 ,white4 ,p4 ii4 #cei2 ,pp4 #daj2 ,m4 viii4 #cb4 ,,parn4 ,white1 or silver money2 thence1 as in the case of ,fr4 argent1 money in general4 ,see ,,parn4 ,,parra4 ,span4 ,festoons of vines2 the trellis or stakes upon which these festoons are trained4 ,,parugar4 ,rom4 ,to barter1 swop1 chaffer4 ,p4 ii4 #ced2 ,pp4 #dab2 ,m4 viii4 #cc4 ,,pasteleros4 ,span4 ,pastrycooks4 ,,pastesas4 ,rom4 ,the hands4 ,ustilar pastesas is to steal 8with the hands10 or by any sleight of hand4 ,z4 i4 #cae4 ,the usual ,span4 gypsy word is ba1 ,j42 bas1 ,z4 i4 #ebb4 ,both are doubtless variations of the more common vast4 ,p4 ii4 #hf2 ,pp4 #egc2 ,m4 viii4 #id2 ,,sc4 #aea4 ,,pastor4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,shepherd4 ,,patio4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,the court of a house2 either the open space round which ,spanish houses are so commonly built1 or an open court in front of it4 ,,patron4 ,see ,,padron4 ,,pawnee1 ,,pan4 ,rom4 ,water4 ,hind4 pan4 ,the one special word known to all gypsies wherever found1 even in ,brazil4 ,p4 ii4 #cdc2 ,pp4 #dje2 ,m4 viii4 #ca2 ,g4 i4 #fa4 ,,peluni4 ,arab4 ,of another4 ,see ii4 #cac4 ,,penar1 ,,penelar4 ,rom4 ,to speak1 say4 ,p4 ii4 #chf2 ,pp4 #dba2 ,m4 viii4 #da4 ,,pe,a4 ,span4 ,a rock4 ,,peptndorio4 ,rom4 ,antonio2 proper name4 ,,perico4 ,span4 ,a small parrot4 ,,pero4 ,span4 ,but ,,perro4 ,span4 ,a dog4 ,,pesar4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,to afflict1 distress4 ,lit4 to weigh4 ,me peso1 8,i'm very sorry40 ,,peseta4 ,span4 ,a ,spanish coin1 representing1 down to #ahgj1 two silver reals or four reals vellon1 but since #ahgj the standard or unit of value in ,spanish finance1 is nearly equal to the ,french franc1 and1 like it1 divided for purposes of account1 into #ajj centimos4 ,,petulengro1 ,,petalengro4 ,eng4 ,rom4 ,a shoeing smith4 ,see note on i4 #bjd2 ,p4 ii4 #cdh2 ,pp4 #dbg2 ,m4 viii4 #cg2 ,,sc4 #ac1 #aba2 and1 generally1 ,lavengro and ,the ,romany ,rye4 ,,pfaffen4 ,germ4 ,monks2 a contemptuous term for clerics generally1 whether regular or secular4 ,,piazza4 ,ital4 ,an open square in a town1 surrounded by colonnades4 ,in modern ,american parlance the word is often used for a veranda1 in which sense ,borrow apparently uses it1 i4 #bgf4 ,,picador4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,a riding-master1 bull-fighter4 ,see note1 i4 #agj1 and ,,torero4 ,,picardia4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,knavishness2 from picaro1 a rogue1 knave1 or loafer4 ,the ,english adjective picaresque is conventionally applied to a certain class of ,spanish story of low life and sharp practice relieved by humour4 ,p,,caro4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,rogue1 knave4 ,,picaron4 ,span4 ,augmentative 7on7 of pcaro1 a great scamp4 ,,pica4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,peak1 summit4 ,,pila4 ,span4 ,a water-trough4 ,,pinar1 ,,pinal4 ,span4 ,grove or wood of pine trees4 ,,pinr1 ,,pindr1 plur4 ,,pindr4 ,rom4 ,foot2 en pindr1 on foot ,p4 ii4 #cea2 ,pp4 #dcc2 ,m4 viii4 #dg2 ,a4 #cc4 ,,pio4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,pious4 ,,pirar1 ,,pirelar4 ,rom4 ,to go1 walk4 ,p4 ii4 #chb2 ,pp4 #dcf2 ,m4 viii4 #db4 ,,pita4 ,span4 ,the aloe 7,agave americana74 ,,plul4 ,rom4 ,a widow4 ,p4 ii4 #cgg2 ,pp4 #dci2 ,m4 viii4 #dc4 ,,plako or ,,placo4 ,rom4 ,tobacco4 ,russ4 prk powder4 ,p4 ii4 #cfa2 ,pp4 #dde2 ,m4 viii4 #eb4 ,a gypsy model at ,granada gave it as prajo in #ahgf1 8,l0 and 8,r0 being often interchanged by the peasants thereabouts4 ,g4 i4 #agg and ,j4 has polvo praco4 ,,plan1 ,,planor1 ,,plal4 ,rom4 ,brother1 comrade4 ,eng4 ,rom4 pal4 ,p4 ii4 #chc2 ,a4 #gi2 ,pp4 #dde2 ,m4 viii4 #dc4 ,,playa4 ,span4 ,the strand4 ,,plaza4 ,span4 ,a square or open space in a town4 ,ital4 piazza1 q4v4 ,,plazuela4 ,span4 ,dimin4 of ,,plaza4 ,,poblacion4 ,span4 7#a7 ,population2 7#b7 act of populating2 7#c7 a town4 ,,pobrecita4 ,span4 8,poor thing60 ,dimin4 of pobre1 poor4 ,,politico4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,political1 civil4 ,see note1 ii4 #abg4 ,,polk4 ,russ4 ,a regiment4 ,,poquito4 ,span4 ,dimin4 of poco4 ,small1 little4 ,,por4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,for4 ,,porque4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,because4 ,,posada4 ,span4 8,a lodging2 from posar1 to sit down or lodge1 hence lodging-house1 tavern1 or small hotel4 ,the genuine ,spanish town inn is called the posada1 as being meant to mean a house of repose after the pains of travel4 ,strictly speaking1 the keeper is only bound to provide lodging1 salt1 and the power of cooking whatever the traveller brings with him or can procure out-of-doors1 and in this it differs from the fonda1 in which meats and drinks are furnished40--,ford1 ,gatherings from ,spain1 ch4 xv4 ,,posadero4 ,span4 ,innkeeper4 ,,posta4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,post1 post-house4 ,casa de las ,postas1 ,general ,post-office4 ,,pra,a4 ,port4 ,square1 place4 ,,prado4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,a lawn or meadow4 ,the great promenade at ,madrid4 ,,praia4 ,gal4 ,seashore1 strand4 ,,presidio4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,place of imprisonment1 penitentiary2 prim4 a fortress1 or the garrison thereof4 ,,prestar4 ,port4 ,to be of use4 ,,primero4 ,span4 ,first4 ,,principe4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,,princeps4 ,lat4 ,prince4 ,,propina4 ,span4 ,lat4 propinare4 ,drink-money2 pour boire1 a tip4 ,,puchera or ,,puchero4 ,span4 ,a stew2 prim4 the pot in which the stew is made1 which1 as in the case of the olla1 has come to signify the contents4 ,the puchero is more used in the north1 the olla in the south of the ,peninsula4 ,the combination olla podrida is now at least never heard in ,spain4 ,,pueblo4 ,span4 ,a small town1 or village4 ,el pueblo1 the common people4 ,,puente4 ,span4 ,a bridge4 ,,puerta4 ,span4 ,door1 gate4 ,puerta del ,sol1 ,gate of the ,sun4 ,the central point of ,madrid4 ,,puerto4 ,span4 ,a bay1 or port2 also a pass in the mountains4 ,,pulido4 ,span4 ,neat1 delicate1 charming4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,quatro4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,four4 ,,que4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,what1 that4 ,,quer4 ,rom4 ,a house4 ,see ,,ker4 ,,quien4 ,span4 ,who4 ,,quiero4 ,span4 ,i wish4 ,,quinta4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,a country house4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,rabbi4 ,hebr4 ,master4 ,,rainha4 ,port4 ,queen4 ,,rais4 ,arab4 ,chief2 captain of a ship4 ,,rajil4 ,arab4 ,man4 ,,randado4 ,rom4 ,written4 ,from randar1 ,p4 ii4 #bgf4 ,,ratero4 ,span4 ,mean1 scoundrelly4 ,,raya4 ,span4 ,border1 boundary1 or frontier4 ,,real4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,royal4 ,,real4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,a coin or unit of value4 ,the ,spanish plural is reales2 the ,portuguese1 reis or rees4 ,the ,spanish real is worth about #b;d4 ,english2 the ,portuguese only #a_/bj;d41 one thousand reis making the ,portuguese dollar1 or piece of mil reis1 hence called a milrei or milreis4 ,,regata4 ,span4 ,a small channel1 or1 conduit4 ,,reja4 ,span4 ,the iron grating before a window looking on to the street of a town4 ,the recognized trysting-place of a lover and his mistress4 ,,relacion4 ,span4 ,relation1 story4 ,,rematar4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,to end1 finish4 ,que ,dios remate tu nombre6 8,may ,god blot out your name60 ,,render4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,to yield1 surrender4 ,,repa,i4 ,rom4 ,brandy4 ,this word1 given in #ahgf 7v4 ,,plako71 is derived by ,pott from repai 7repa1 ,j471 a radish1 the connexion being the sharp taste of both 7ii4 #bgd74 ,remembering the 8fire-water0 of the ,indians1 the aguardiente of ,spain and ,portugal1 and the tattopani of the ,eng4 gypsies1 ,i am tempted to suggest another explanation4 ,j4 gives ardiente car1 and aguardiente paicar4 ,now car 7,p4 ii4 #abe7 or jar 7ib4 #aga7 heat4 ,change the order of the words and caripai might shorten into repa4 ,,repostero4 ,span4 ,the butler1 or majordomo1 in a great house4 ,the reposteria is the plate-room1 storeroom1 or pantry4 ,,reputacion4 ,span4 ,reputation4 ,gente de reputacion1 8swells10 8swagger people40 ,,requiso4 ,span4 ,requisitioning 7from requerir74 ,a technical word2 the authority that requisitions private property1 horses1 etc41 for the use of the national army in time of war4 ,,reyna4 ,span4 ,queen4 ,,ria4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,an estuary1 as the mouth of a river4 ,more particularly applied to the numerous bays on the ,galician and ,asturian coasts of ,northwest ,spain4 ,,ro1 ,,rom4 ,rom4 ,a husband2 a married gypsy4 ,roma1 the husbands1 is the generic name of the gypsy nation1 or ,romany4 ,p4 ii4 #bge2 ,a4 #ef2 ,pp4 #dfb2 ,m4 viii4 #eh2 ,mc,r4 #ia4 ,,romero4 ,span4 ,rosemary4 ,,romi4 ,rom4 ,a married gypsywoman2 fem4 of rom1 a husband2 a married gypsy4 ,,roque4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,the 8rook10 or 8castle10 at chess4 ,pers4 rukh4 ,the same word is used for the fabulous bird of immense size so often mentioned in ,oriental tales4 ,,rouble4 ,russ4 ,a kind of ,russian money1 either silver or paper4 ,its present value is about two shillings4 ,,ruah4 ,arab1 and ,hebr4 ,spirit4 ,used throughout the ,old ,test1 to denote the ,spirit of ,god1 the ,holy ,spirit4 ,,rufianesco4 ,span4 ,ruffian1 criminal4 ,,rune4 ,eng4 7#a7 ,a letter of the ancient ,scandinavian alphabet1 usually carved on stone4 7#b7 ,a short mystic sentence of ,scandinavian origin4 ,norse and ,danish rune1 ,swed4 runa4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,sabio4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,learned4 ,king ,alfonso ,x4 was surnamed ,el ,sabio1 which is sometimes erroneously rendered 8,the ,wise40 ,sabio is1 rather1 8erudite20 and the king was undoubtedly the most learned man of his time1 though his government was not always by any means wise4 ,,sacro4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,sacred4 ,,safacoro4 ,rom4 ,the city of ,seville4 ,p4 ii4 #bdh4 ,j4 gives ,sevillano ,safacorano4 ,,sagadua1 ,,sagardua4 ,basque4 ,cider2 i4e4 the strong or ,spanish cider1 called in ,french ,basque charnoa or sharnoa1 as distinguished from the weak cider which is made from apples rotted in water4 ,a probable etymology is sagar apple2 arno wine4 ,,sagra4 ,span4 ,the name of certain districts in ,spain1 especially of one lying north of ,toledo4 ,the word is probably derived from the ,arab ara a plain4 ,see note1 i4 #beg4 ,,salamanquesa4 ,span4 ,a salamander1 or1 star-lizard2 otherwise called salamandra4 ,,sandia4 ,span4 ,a water-melon4 ,,santiguo4 ,span4 ,the action of crossing one's self4 ,santiguar is 8to make the sign of the cross40 ,,santo4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,sainted1 holy4 ,la ,santa ,casa1 the ,inquisition4 ,,santon4 ,span4 ,a great saint2 more especially applied to ,moslem recluses4 ,also1 a hypocrite4 ,,santurron4 ,span4 ,a great saint2 usually1 a great hypocrite4 ,,sardinha4 ,port4 and ,gal4 ,a sardine4 ,borrow's friends1 la gente rufianesca1 have a quaint name for a galley-slave1 apaleador de sardinas1 a sardine-beater4 ,h4 #aee4 ,,sba4 ,arab4 ,morning4 ,more correctly1 ab4 ,,scharki4 ,arab4 ,the ,east4 ,,scharr4 ,see ,,daoud4 ,,schophon4 ,heb4 ,shphn 77 ,a quadruped which chews the cud like a hare 7,lev4 xi4 #e2 ,deut4 xiv4 #g72 which lives gregariously on rocks1 and is remarkable for its cunning 7,ps4 civ4 #ah2 ,prov4 xxx4 #bf74 ,the ,rabbins render coney1 or rabbit2 more correctly the ,,lxx4 in three places 1 i4e4 an animal resembling the marmot4 ,s4 ,span4 ,i know2 from saber4 ,,sea4 ,span4 ,may he be2 from ser4 ,,seco4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,dry4 ,see ii4 #hb4 ,,secretario4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,secretary4 ,,segun4 ,span4 ,according to4 ,,segundo4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,second4 ,,senhor1 ,,senhora4 ,port4 ,,se,,or1 ,,se,,ora4 ,span4 ,gentleman1 lady4 ,,se,,orito1 ,,se,,orita4 ,span4 ,dimin4 of the above4 ,,seo4 ,span4 ,a cathedral church4 ,,sereka4 ,arab4 ,a theft4 ,more correctly1 sarika4 ,,serra4 ,port4 ,a high range of mountains2 the ,spanish sierra4 ,,serrador4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,a sawyer4 ,although according to some authorities this was the real name of the person mentioned in i4 #ach1 #bcc1 it seems that he was really a sawyer1 by name ,jos ,miralles1 born in ,valencia1 on the borders of ,aragon4 ,he served under ,el ,fraile 7,the ,friar71 a ,guerilla chief in the ,napoleonic wars1 and was rather the rival than the lieutenant of ,cabrera1 who imprisoned him1 on which occasion he broke both his legs in a vain attempt to escape4 ,he subsequently took part in the rising at ,maeztrazgo1 in #ahdd1 and died in the campaign of that year1 while serving under ,general ,villalonga4 ,,serrania4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,district or country of sierras1 or mountain ridges4 ,,servil4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,servile4 ,applied1 as a substantive1 as a party nickname to the ,royalists on the outbreak of the first civil war in #ahbj4 ,,ses 7fem4 ,,ses1 plur4 ,,ses1 also ,spain74 ,rom4 ,a ,spaniard4 ,in ,spanish the word signifies 8brain10 ,p4 ii4 #bdi4 ,,shait,n4 ,arab4 ,satan1 the devil4 ,,shee4 ,arab4 ,thing4 ,,shekel4 ,hebr4 ,a ,hebrew coin of uncertain value4 ,the word itself means merely 8a weight40 ,,shem4 ,hebr4 ,name4 ,,shem ,,hamphorash4 ,hebr4 ,the separated1 reserved1 or special ,name1 i4e4 ,yahweh4 ,always transliterated ,adonai4 ,lord 7a word which itself1 perhaps1 contains the ,span4 ,don71 whence 1 ,dominus1 and the ,,lord1 have found their way into translations of the ,old ,testament4 ,our ,english 8,jehovah0 contains the forbidden consonants of ,yahweh and the vowel points of ,adonai4 ,,shereef4 ,arab4 ,noble4 ,,shillam ,,eidri4 ,apparently meant for lashon ivri the ,hebrew tongue4 ,,shoob4 ,borrovian for the ,russian shuba1 a fur cloak or pelisse4 ,the word has made its way into ,eng4 ,rom4 as shooba1 a gown4 ,,shrit4 ,apparently for the ,arabic ishtari buy4 ,,sibat4 ,arab4 ,slippers4 ,more correctly1 sabbt4 ,,sidi4 ,arab4 ,my lord4 ,more usually written ,said or ,sayyid1 the same as the more familiar ,cid4 ,the fem4 ,sitti my lady1 is familiar to every lady who has visited ,north ,africa4 ,,sierras4 ,span4 ,lit4 saws2 applied to mountain ranges1 from their serrated outline4 ,,siesta4 ,span4 ,lat4 sexta 7hora71 noon4 ,noontide or afternoon sleep4 ,sext is one of the canonical hours of the ,catholic ,church4 ,,siete4 ,span4 ,seven4 ,,siglo4 ,span4 ,century1 age4 ,,signor1 ,,signore4 ,ital4 ,sir4 ,,sin4 ,span4 ,without4 ,,sinah4 ,see ,,dar4 ,,sinar4 ,rom4 ,to be4 ,sin1 he is2 sinava1 ,i was4 ,p4 ii4 #bej2 ,pp4 #bee2 ,m4 vii4 #ff4 ,s,c4 ,arab4 ,a market4 ,more correctly1 s4 ,soc de barra outer market4 ,,sociedad4 ,span4 ,society4 ,,soga4 ,span4 ,a rope2 a well-rope2 a halter for beasts2 the halter for hanging a man4 ,,solabarri4 ,rom4 ,bridle4 ,p4 ii4 #bci2 ,pp4 #dhg2 ,m4 viii4 #fi4 ,,sombrero4 ,span4 ,a hat2 that which gives sombra1 or shade4 ,,son4 ,span4 ,they are2 from ser4 ,,sonacai4 ,rom4 ,gold4 ,p4 ii4 #bbg2 ,pp4 #dha2 ,m4 viii4 #fh4 ,,sopa4 ,span4 7#a7 ,soup4 7#b7 ,the entire dinner4 ,,sotea4 ,port4 ,flat roof2 balcony2 platform4 ,,sou4 ,port4 ,,soy4 ,span4 ,i am2 from ser4 ,,sowanee4 ,rom4 ,a sorceress4 ,used by ,borrow1 i4 #abb1 for the more correct chuajai1 ,eng4 ,rom4 chovihoni4 ,p4 ii4 #aij2 ,pp4 #edi2 ,m4 vii4 #cg4 ,,su4 ,span4 ,,suus4 ,lat4 ,his4 ,,svend4 ,dan4 ,swain4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,tabla4 ,span4 ,a board1 or plank4 ,,tal4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,such4 ,que tal8 8,how goes it80 ,,talib4 ,arab4 ,learned1 ,lit4 8a seeker10 used in some countries for 8a devotee40 ,more correctly1 lib4 ,,tambien4 ,span4 ,also1 likewise1 as well4 ,,tan4 ,span4 ,so4 ,,tarde4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,afternoon1 evening4 ,,teatro4 ,span4 ,theatre4 ,,tebleque4 ,rom4 ,god the ,saviour1 ,jesus4 ,p4 ii4 #cab2 ,j4 ,,tener4 ,span4 ,to take1 hold1 have4 ,see ,,modo4 ,tuvose1 it was held1 or1 thought4 ,,terelar4 ,rom4 ,to have1 hold4 ,p4 ii1 #bid2 ,a4 #da2 ,pp4 #eab2 ,m4 viii4 #gi4 ,,terreiro4 ,port4 ,a parade1 promenade4 ,,tertulia4 ,span4 ,an assembly1 conversazione4 ,,tinaja4 ,span4 ,a large earthen jar4 ,,tinto4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,coloured4 ,vino tinto1 red wine4 ,,tio1 ,,tia4 ,span4 ,uncle2 aunt4 ,applied in common life as a term of familiar address to any one1 not related to the speaker4 ,something like the ,old ,english gaffer and gammer4 ,,tipotas4 ,grk4 ,nothing 774 ,,tirar4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,to throw1 remove1 shoot4 ,tirar por detras1 to kick out behind4 ,,tocino4 ,span4 ,bacon1 pork4 ,,todo4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,all4 ,,toma4 ,span4 ,lit4 take2 as an interjection1 8,come60 8,look here60 ,,tomate4 ,span4 ,the tomato 7,lycopersicum esculentum74 ,,tonsura4 ,span4 and ,port4 7#a7 ,a cutting1 of hair or wool4 7#b7 ,the first of the ecclesiastical orders4 ,,torah1 or ,,thorah4 ,hebr4 ,the books of the ,law2 the ,pentateuch4 ,,toreador4 ,see ,,torero4 ,,torero4 ,span4 ,a professional bull-fighter4 ,these are of three classes--the picadores1 or horsemen2 the bandarilleros1 or placers of banderillos2 and the matador1 or espada4 ,each company1 or cuadrilla1 of fighters consists of a matador1 chief of the band1 three bandarilleros1 and two picadores4 ,there is also usually a sobresaliente 7or understudy7 de espada1 in case of accidents2 and a certain number of chulos1 or men with cloaks1 complete the personnel of the ring4 ,,traducido4 ,span4 ,translated4 ,from traducir4 ,,traer4 ,span4 ,to bear1 carry4 ,,traguillo4 ,span4 ,dim4 of trago4 ,a draught1 drink4 ,,trampa4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,a trap1 snare4 ,,trinidad4 ,span4 ,trinity4 ,,tsadik4 ,hebr4 ,righteous4 ,hence ,tsadok1 the leader of the ,sadducees1 derived his name4 ,,tucue4 ,rom4 ,thee1 with thee4 ,see ,,tute4 ,,tuerto4 ,span4 ,one-eyed4 ,,tunante4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,truant2 lazy scoundrel4 ,,tute4 ,rom4 ,thou1 thee4 ,p4 i4 #bbi2 ,pp4 #ff2 ,m4 viii4 #hg4 ,,tuvose4 ,see ,,tener4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,undevel1 ,,undebel4 ,rom4 ,god4 ,according to ,borrow1 the first syllable of the word is the ,om of the ,brahmins and ,indian ,buddhists1 one of the names of the ,deity4 ,pott1 however1 denies this1 ii4 #ge1 #caa2 ,a4 #bhe ,pp4 #bje2 ,m4 vii4 #db2 ,g4 i4 #agg4 ,,uria4 ,basque4 ,city4 ,so translated by ,borrow1 but ,i cannot find the word4 ,the correct ,basque is iri or hiri4 ,,usted4 ,span4 ,contracted form of vuestra merced1 your worship2 used for 8you20 now written simply ,vd or ,v4 ,,ustilar4 ,rom4 ,to take1 take up1 steal4 ,z4 ii4 99 #aah2 ,j4 ,cf4 ostilar1 to steal4 ,p4 ii4 #gb1 #bdf4 ,see ,,pastesas4 ,,valdepe,,as4 ,span4 ,the red wine made in the neighbourhood of that town1 in die heart of ,la ,mancha4 ,it is about the best in ,spain4 ,,valer4 ,span4 ,to be worth1 prevail1 protect4 ,valgame ,dios6 8,may ,god protect me60 8,s'help me60 ,,valido4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,powerful1 respected4 ,see note1 ii4 #cgf4 ,,valiente4 ,span4 7#a7 ,as an adjective1 strong or valiant4 7#b7 ,as a substantive1 in a less honourable sense1 as 8cock of the walk10 or bully4 ,,vamos1 or ,,vamonos4 ,span4 8,let us go60 8,come along60 ,v,,staco4 ,span4 ,stem1 bud1 shoot4 ,,vaya4 ,span4 ,a very common interjection or expression1 8,come60 8,get along60 8,let it go60 ,imper4 of ir1 to go4 ,,vecino4 ,span4 ,an inhabitant2 as an adjective1 neighbouring4 ,,vega4 ,span4 ,a meadow or plain2 an open tract of level and fruitful ground1 more particularly applied to the country around ,granada2 generally an alluvial tract formed by the bend of a river or expansion of a valley4 ,,velho4 ,port4 ,old4 ,,venta4 ,span4 ,,venda4 ,port4 ,strictly speaking1 an isolated country inn1 or house of reception on the road2 and if it be not of physical entertainment1 it is at least one of moral1 and accordingly figures in prominent characters in all the personal narratives and travels in ,spain4 ,the venta is inferior in rank to the posada1 q4v4 ,the original meaning of the word is 8sale40 ,,verdadero4 ,span4 ,true4 ,,verdugo1 ,,verduga4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,said of an exceedingly cruel person4 ,prim4 a switch1 then a flogger1 or executioner4 ,,viaje4 ,span4 ,a voyage4 ,,vid4 ,span4 ,vine4 ,,viejo4 ,span4 ,old2 an old man4 ,,villa4 ,span4 ,a town2 greater than an aldea or village1 less than a ciudad or city4 ,,villano1 ,,villana4 ,span4 ,countryman1 peasant2 country girl or woman4 ,,vino4 ,span4 ,wine4 ,,virgen4 ,span4 ,,virgo4 ,lat4 ,virgin4 ,,vise4 ,nor4 ,dan4 ,a ballad4 ,,vis4 ,fr4 ,endorsed1 or furnished with the official visa4 ,as commonly applied to passports1 neither the verb nor the substantive has any exact equivalent in ,english4 ,,viver4 ,span4 and ,port4 ,to live4 ,que viva6 8,long life to him60 ,,voss1 or ,,vossem4 ,port4 ,vossa merc1 your worship2 you4 ,gal4 vust2 ,span4 usted4 ,see note1 i4 #hi4 ,,voy4 ,span4 ,i am going2 from ir4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,wady4 ,arab4 ,river4 ,wady al kebir the great river1 the ,guadalquivir4 ,,wakhud4 ,arab4 ,a1 the article4 ,more correctly1 waid4 ,,wullah4 ,arab4 8,by ,god60 ,,wustuddur4 ,arab4 ,home2 abode4 ,lit4 the middle of the houses4 ,see ,,dar4 99 99 99 99 99 ,y4 ,span4 ,and4 ,,yaw4 ,borrovian for the ,germ4 ja yes4 ,,ydoorshee4 ,arab4 ,it signifies2 lit4 it hurts4 ,,yerba4 ,span4 7#a7 ,grass4 7#b7 ,poison4 ,,yesca4 ,span4 ,under4 ,,yo4 ,span4 ,i4 ,,youm4 ,arab4 ,a day4 ,,yudken4 ,germ4 ,a little ,jew2 more correctly1 ,jdchen4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,zamarra4 ,span4 ,a sheepskin coat1 the woolly side turned inwards2 from the ,basque echamarra 7having the same signification71 usually worn by shepherds4 ,the ,french chamarrer1 to deck out1 or bedizen1 is said to be a word of kindred origin4 ,,zarza4 ,span4 ,a bramble4 ,,zincalo4 plur4 ,,zincali4 ,span4 ,rom4 ,gypsy4 ,p4 ii4 #bei2 ,m4 viii4 #fe4 ,,zohar4 ,hebr4 ,brilliancy4 ,see note1 ii4 #cah4 ,,index4 ,abades1 ii4 #bji ,abyla1 ,mount 7,gibil ,muza71 ii4 #bie ,aguilar1 ,antonio ,garcia de1 i4 #bhb-bhf ,alcal de ,guadaira1 i4 #bbc ,aldea ,gallega1 i4 #ai1 #eh1 #ga ,alemtejo1 i4 #af1 #gb ,algeziras1 ii4 #bif ,andalusia1 ,desert of1 i4 #bbd ,andalusians1 ,the1 ii4 #bfa ,andujar1 i4 #bec ,antigola1 ii4 #bjf ,antonio1 the gypsy1 i4 #ajf ,antonio ,buchini1 i4 #bfe2 ii4 #afa1 #aga1 #bag ,aranjuez1 #a4 #bed2 ii4 #bjb ,arroyolos1 i4 #hd ,astorga1 i4 #cah ,asturias1 ,the1 ii4 #ei ,azeca1 ,bridge of1 #aa4 #aib ,azido1 ,joz ,dias1 i4 #gd 99 99 99 99 99 ,badajoz1 i4 #if1 #aje ,bailen1 i4 #bec ,balmaseda1 ii4 #baa ,balseiro1 i4 #agg2 ii4 #aed ,baltasar1 the ,national1 i4 #afg1 #bjf ,baralla ,pass1 ii4 #fj ,basques1 ,the1 and their language1 ii4 #aab et seq4 ,beckford1 ,william1 i4 #i ,bembibre1 i4 #ccc ,benedict ,mol1 i4 #aij1 #chb1 #che2 ii4 #gc1 #afe1 #aha ,bermudez1 ,cean1 i4 #bff ,betanzos1 i4 #cfd ,bilbao1 ii4 #ic ,bonanza1 i4 #bad2 ii4 #bgc ,borrego1 ,don ,andrs1 i4 #bei ,brackenbury1 ,john 7,consul at ,cadiz71 ii4 #bhh ,buchini1 ,antonio1 i4 #bfe2 ii4 #afa1 #aga1 #bag ,burgos1 ii4 #ih 99 99 99 99 99 ,cabrera1 ,general1 i4 #bcc ,cacabelos1 i4 #cch ,cadiz1 i4 #bab2 ii4 #bhf ,caldas de ,reyes1 i4 #cid ,calzado1 ,pepe1 ii4 #aja ,caneiro1 ii4 #fb ,cantwell1 ,patrick1 i4 #bhj ,carmona1 i4 #bbd ,carolina1 i4 #bec ,castro1 ,john de1 i4 #i ,castro ,pol1 ii4 #ei ,christina1 ,queen ,regent1 i4 #aig ,chrysostom1 ,johannes1 ii4 #bef ,cintra1 i4 #g ,clarendon1 ,lord1 i4 #afd1 #bga2 ii4 #aba1 #abd1 #bah ,cobea1 ii4 #bba ,coisa ,doiro1 ii4 #df ,colhares1 i4 #aj ,colunga1 ii4 #hc ,compostella1 i4 #aib1 #cgg2 ii4 #ahc ,contrabandistas1 ,spanish1 ii4 #ce1 #de ,corcuvion1 ii4 #ce ,cordova1 i4 #bbi1 #bch ,cordova1 ,general1 i1 #ahj1 #bfg ,correa1 ,joanna1 ii4 #cee ,corunna1 i4 #cfg2 ii4 #da ,cuesta del ,espinal1 i4 #bbh 99 99 99 99 99 ,d',almeida1 ,j4 ,ferreira1 i4 #ih ,d',azveto1 ,don ,geronimo1 i4 #be1 #ch ,dehesa1 ,the1 ii4 #bei ,despeaperros ,pass1 i4 #bed ,diaz1 ,maria1 i4 #bef2 ii4 #acj1 #aei ,dionysius1 ii4 #bfc ,doddridge1 ,dr4 ,p41 i4 #f ,dueas1 i4 #cjc ,duero 7,douro71 i4 #bic ,duyo1 ii4 #bc 99 99 99 99 99 ,elvas1 i4 #id ,estremadura1 i4 #adf ,estremoz1 i4 #hg ,evora1 i4 #af1 #cc ,execution of criminals1 i4 #aga 99 99 99 99 99 ,fava1 ,pascual1 ii4 #cha ,ferrol1 ii4 #db ,feyjoo1 ,benito1 ii4 #gi ,fielding1 ,henry1 i4 #f ,finisterre1 ,cape1 i4 #bji2 ii4 #ba1 #bd ,flinter1 ,g4 ,d4 7the ,irishman71 ii4 #ib ,fragey1 ,ephraim1 ii4 #cfi ,fuencebadon ,pass1 i4 #cdd 99 99 99 99 99 ,galiano1 ,alcala1 i4 #agi1 #aha1 #aie ,galicia1 i1 #a1 #cdg2 ii4 #ei ,gallegan language1 i4 #cea ,garcia1 ,sergeant1 i4 #aig1 #bgc ,gartland1 ,dr41 i4 #bgf ,gibraltar1 ii4 #cjj ,gijon1 ii4 #gj ,gomez1 i4 #aid1 #bab1 #bah1 #bcc ,guadalquivir1 i4 #bad2 ii4 #bdi1 #bgb ,guadarrama ,mountains1 i4 #aea ,guadiana ,river1 i4 #ajb ,gypsies1 ,spanish1 i4 #aje 99 99 99 99 99 ,hervey1 ,lord ,william1 ii4 #baa ,hirias1 ,archbishop 7,toledo71 ii4 #agd 99 99 99 99 99 ,isturitz1 ,don ,francis ,xavier de1 i4 #agi1 #aha1 #aif 99 99 99 99 99 ,jaraicejo1 i4 #ace ,judaism1 i4 #fg1 #bdg 99 99 99 99 99 ,labajos1 i4 #baj ,la ,granja1 i4 #aig2 ii4 #bjh ,la ,mancha1 i4 #bed ,lariategui1 i4 #bfb1 #bie ,las ,batuecas1 i4 #aeb ,leganez1 ii4 #ahe ,leon1 i4 #cae ,leyden1 ,dr4 ,john1 i4 #gf ,lib1 ,judah1 ii4 #cag ,lisbon1 i4 #c1 #ae1 #eh1 #ff1 #bab ,llanes1 ii4 #hh ,los ,angeles1 ii4 #g ,luarca1 ii4 #fa ,lugo1 i4 #ced1 #ceh ,luigi ,piozzi1 ii4 #cgj 99 99 99 99 99 ,madrid1 i4 #afb1 #agc1 #bef1 #bgj2 ii4 #ii1 #aba1 #bag1 #ccd ,mafra1 i4 #ab ,manzanal1 i4 #cbg ,manzanares1 ii4 #baf1 #bdh ,maragatos1 ,the1 i4 #cba ,medina del ,campo1 i4 #bia ,mendizabal1 ,juan ,alvarez y1 i4 #afd ,merida1 i4 #aad1 #abe ,miguelets1 ,the1 i4 #cfc ,mirabete ,pass1 i4 #ade ,mol1 ,benedict1 i4 #aij1 #chb1 #che2 ii4 #gc1 #afe1 #aha ,moncloa1 i4 #bbe ,montaneda1 ii4 #if ,monte ,almo1 i4 #bi ,monte ,moro1 i4 #bh1 #ec1 #ge ,monte ,moro ,novo1 i4 #hg ,montes1 ,francisco1 i4 #agj ,moore1 ,sir ,john1 i4 #cgd ,moors1 ,the1 i4 #aaf1 #bci ,munoz1 i4 #aih ,muros1 ii4 #fe 99 99 99 99 99 ,naval ,carnero1 ii4 #bcb ,navias1 ii4 #ei ,new ,castile1 i4 #aej ,nogales1 i4 #cej ,novales1 ii4 #de ,noyo1 ii4 #ac 99 99 99 99 99 ,ocaa1 ii4 #bjd ,ofalia1 ,count1 ii4 #aba1 #abd1 #ada ,old ,castile1 i4 #bgd2 ,plains of1 i4 #bij ,oliban1 the secretary1 i4 #ahc1 #aie ,oas1 ii4 #ih ,oropesa1 i4 #aej ,oviedo1 ii4 #gj 99 99 99 99 99 ,padron1 i4 #cib2 ii4 #a ,palencia1 i4 #cji ,pascual ,fava1 ii4 #cha ,pedroso1 i4 #bhf ,peges1 #a4 #bd1 #gd ,pea ,cerrada ,pass1 ii4 #bjg ,pearanda1 i4 #bge ,petulengres1 i4 #bjd ,philippi1 ,mr41 ii4 #bgf1 #bgh ,pico ,sacro1 i4 #cgg ,piozzi1 ,luigi1 i4 #cgj ,pitiegua1 i4 #bha ,pontevedra1 i4 #cie ,portuguese ,jews1 i4 #dji ,puerto de ,lumbreras1 ii4 #bdf 99 99 99 99 99 ,quesada1 i4 #aha1 #aii1 #bjb 99 99 99 99 99 ,rey ,romero1 i4 #chj ,ribida de ,sella1 ii4 #hh ,rivadeo1 ii4 #ec ,rivas1 ,duke of1 i4 #ahc 99 99 99 99 99 ,sabocha1 the robber1 i4 #ba ,sagra of ,toledo1 ,the1 i4 #beg1 ii4 #aid ,saint ,james of ,compostella1 i4 #aib1 #cgg ,salamanca1 i4 #bge ,sanchez1 ,antonio1 i4 #agj ,san ,lucar1 i4 #bad2 ii4 #bgd ,san ,martin de ,duyo1 ii4 #bc ,santa ,colombo1 ii4 #hi ,santa ,marta1 ii4 #de ,santander1 ii4 #ij ,santi ,ponce1 i4 #bag ,santillana1 ii4 #ij ,san ,vicente1 ii4 #hi ,scio1 ,padre ,filipe1 i4 #bei ,segovia1 ii4 #bji ,serra ,dorso1 i4 #cc1 #hg ,sevilla ,francesco1 i4 #agj1 #agf ,seville1 i4 #bae2 ii4 #bad1 #bdh ,sierra de ,buron1 ii4 #fj ,sierra de ,ronda1 i4 #bae ,sierra ,morena1 i4 #bda ,soto ,luino1 ii4 #fd ,southern1 ,mr41 i4 #bga2 ii4 #acc1 #ace1 #aci 99 99 99 99 99 ,tagus1 ,the1 i4 #c1 #ah1 #ade ,talavera1 i4 #aee ,tangier1 ii4 #cdb ,tarifa1 ii4 #bid1 #cda ,taylor1 ,baron1 i4 #bbj ,toledo1 ii4 #ajb-ajg ,tormes ,river1 i4 #bgf ,toro1 i4 #cjj ,trafalgar ,bay1 ii4 #bib ,triana1 i4 #baf ,trujillo1 i4 #acj 99 99 99 99 99 ,valladolid1 i4 #bid ,vargas1 ii4 #ahg1 #aie ,vendas ,novas1 i4 #bg1 #ee1 #gd ,vendas ,velhas1 i4 #ba ,villa del ,padron1 i4 #cib2 ii4 #a ,villafranca1 i4 #cda ,villa ,seca1 ii4 #ahe ,villa ,viciosa1 ii4 #hc ,vigo1 i4 #djc ,villiers1 ,sir ,george4 ,see ,clarendon1 ,lord ,viveiro1 ii4 #ej 99 99 99 99 99 ,zariategui1 i4 #bfb1 #bie 99 99 99 99 99 ,,the ,,end4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,london3 ,,printed ,,by ,,william ,,clowes ,,and ,,sons1 ,,limited1 ,,stamford ,,street ,,and ,,charing ,,cross4 ,footnotes #b ,see note1 vol4 i4 p4 #abj4 #ab ,a fanciful word of ,portuguese etymology from nuvem1 cloud the cloud-man4 #ad ,inha1 when affixed to words1 serves as a diminutive4 ,it is much in use amongst the ,gallegans4 ,it is pronounced nia1 the ,portuguese and ,galician nh being equivalent to the ,spanish 4 #bb 8,flock of drunkards40 ,fato1 in ,gal4 as in ,port4 a herd or flock4 ,span4 hato4 #bc ,san ,martin de ,duyo1 a village1 according to ,madoz1 of sixty houses4 ,there are no remains of the ancient ,duyo4 #bf ,galician2 lit4 the shore of the outer sea4 #bh 8,by ,god6 ,i am going too40 #bi ,who served as a subordinate general in the ,carlist armies4 #cg 8,the good lad40 #dc;a ,in ,spanish1 guardacostas4 #dc;b ,more correctly1 el ,ferrol or farol1 the lighthouse4 ,nothing can more strikingly give the lie to the conventional taunt that ,spain has made no progress in recent years than the condition of the modern town of el ,ferrol compared with the description in the text4 ,it is now a flourishing and remarkably clean town of over #bc1jjj inhabitants1 with an arsenal not only magnificent in its construction1 but filled with every modern appliance1 employing daily some #djjj skilled workmen1 whose club 7el liceo de los artesanos7 might serve as a model for similar institutions in more 8advanced0 countries4 ,it comprises a library1 recreation-room1 casino1 sick fund1 benefit society1 and school2 and lectures and evening parties1 dramatic entertainments1 and classes for scientific students1 are all to be found within its walls4 #de ,a little town charmingly situated on a little bay at the mouth of the river ,eo1 which divides ,galicia from ,asturias1 famous for oysters and salmon4 #df ,signifying in ,portugese or ,galician1 8,a thing of gold40 #dg ,tertian ague1 or intermittent three-day fever4 #di 8,come along1 my little ,parrot60 #eh;a ,a town on the sea-coast about half-way between ,rivadeo and ,aviles4 #eh;b ,query4 ,see note1 p4 #de4 #ei ,on the right bank of the ,eo1 over against ,rivadeo4 #fb;a ,the port of ,oviedo4 #fb;b ,see the ,glossary1 s4v4 ,,copla4 #ff 8,god bless me60 #fg ,i4e4 ,bascuence1 or ,vascuence1 the ,basque language4 #gj ,query1 ,aviles8 #ga ,job xxxix4 #be3 84 4 4 the thunder of the captains1 and the shouting40 #ge 8,good heavens60 #gf ,i4e4 jacas4 #gi;a ,the cathedral at ,oviedo is one of the oldest and most interesting foundations in ,spain4 ,the first stone was laid by ,alfonso ,,ii4 in #hjb2 the greater part of the existing edifice is of the fourteenth century4 ,but the great glory of ,oviedo1 entitling it to rank as second among the holy cities of ,christian ,spain1 is the ,camara ,santa1 and the relics therein contained 7see ,burke's ,history of ,spain vol4 i4 pp4 #abb-abd1 #adj1 #ada1 #adg-aej1 #afe1 #bge2 vol4 ii4 pp4 #h-aa2 and ,murray's ,handbook1 sub4 ,oviedo74 #gi;b ,benito ,feyjoo was born in #afgf1 and having assumed the ,benedictine habit early in life1 settled at length in a convent of his order at ,oviedo1 where he lived for hard on fifty years4 ,he died in #agfd4 ,a strange mixture of a devout ,catholic and a scientific innovator1 he was an earnest student of ,bacon1 ,newton1 ,pascal1 ,leibnitz1 and others1 whose opinions he embodied in his own works4 ,learned1 judicious1 and diligent rather than a man of genius1 he was original at least as regards his conceptions of the nature and limits of scientific research in ,spain4 ,he kept on good terms with the ,inquisition1 while he continued to publish in his ,teatro ,critico and his ,cartas ,eruditas y ,curiosas all that the ,inquisitors would desire to remain unread2 attacked the dialectics and metaphysics then taught everywhere in ,spain2 maintained ,bacon's system of induction in the physical sciences2 ridiculed the general opinion as regards eclipses1 comets1 magic1 and divination2 and laid down canons of historical criticism which would exclude many of the most cherished traditions of his country and his ,church4 ,the best edition of his works is that by ,campomanes1 the minister of the enlightened ,charles ,,iii41 with a ,life of the author4 #af vols4 ,madrid1 #aggh4 #hj ,charles ,,iii4 of ,spain 7#agei-aghh71 the most enlightened of the ,bourbon kings4 #hb ,literally1 dry4 #ib ,george ,dawson ,flinter began life in an ,english ,west ,india regiment1 served in the ,spanish ,american forces1 and afterwards obtained a commission in the ,spanish army4 ,in #ahcc1 on the outbreak of the civil war1 he declared for ,isabella1 and served with considerable distinction in the constitutional army4 ,a prisoner in #ahcf1 he was entrusted with a high command at ,toledo in #ahcg1 but having failed to satisfy the ,cortes in an engagement in ,september1 #ahch1 he cut his throat 7see ,gentl4 ,mag41 #ahch1 vol4 ii4 p4 #eec1 and ,duncan1 ,the ,english in ,spain1 pp4 #ac1 #ahi74 #ih ,there is still a fairly frequented high-road from ,santander to ,burgos1 inasmuch as the railway from ,santander to ,madrid takes a more westerly route through ,palencia1 the actual junction with the main line from ,irun being at ,venta de ,baos1 a new creation of the railway not even mentioned in the guidebooks a few years ago1 and now one of the most important stations in ,spain4 ,yet in railway matters ,spain has still some progress to make4 ,from ,santander to ,burgos vi ,venta de ,baos is just #abj ,english miles2 but the time occupied in the journey by train in this year #ahie is just seventeen hours1 the traveller having to leave ,santander at #a p4m4 in order to reach ,burgos at #f o'clock the following morning6 #ajj ,see ,introduction4 #aja 8,office of the ,biblical and ,foreign ,society10 rather an odd rendering of the original title6 #ajc;a ,the briefest of all abbreviations and modifications of the objectionable ,carajo4 #ajc;b ,rather south-south-west4 #ajd ,domenico ,theotocoupoulis1 a ,greek or ,byzantine who settled at ,toledo in #aegg4 ,he is said to have been a pupil of ,titian4 ,the picture so highly praised in the text is said by ,professor ,justi to be in 8his worst manner10 and is indeed a very stiff performance4 ,there are many of ,el ,greco's pictures in ,italy1 where his work is often assigned to ,bassano1 ,paul ,veronese1 and ,titian4 ,his acknowledged masterpiece is the ,christ on ,mount ,calvary in the cathedral of ,toledo4 ,el ,greco died in #afbe1 after an uninterrupted residence of nearly forty years in ,spain4 #ajg ,see ,the ,zincali1 part4 ii4 chap4 vi4 #aaa;a ,borrow's translation of ,st4 ,luke into ,spanish gypsy was published with the following title3 ,embo e ,majar ,lucas4 ,brotoboro randado andr la chipe griega1 acna chibado andr o ,roman chipe es ,zincales de ,ses4 7,no place7 #ahcg4 ,a new edition was published five and thirty years later by the ,british and ,foreign ,bible ,society1 as ,criscote e ,majar ,lucas chibado andr o ,romano chipe es ,zincales de ,ses4 ,lundra1 #ahgb4 ,both these works are now out of print1 but ,i have had the advantage of seeing a copy of each in the library of the ,society in ,queen ,victoria ,street4 #aaa;b ,the ,zincali1 part ii4 ch4 viii4 #aad ,modern linguistic science is so entirely at variance with these theories that it is difficult to add a note at once modest1 instructive1 or of reasonable length4 ,on the whole it is perhaps better to leave the chapter entirely alone4 #aaf;a ,see the ,glossary4 #aaf;b ,evangelioa ,san ,lucasen ,guissan4 ,el ,evangelio ,segun ,s4 ,lucas4 ,traducido al vascuence4 ,madrid3 ,imprenta de la ,compaia ,tipografica4 #ahch4 #aag ,see ,proverbes ,basques suivis des ,posies ,basques1 by ,arnauld ,oihenart1 #ahdg4 #aah;a ,see ,f4 ,michel1 ,le ,pays ,basque1 p4 #bac1 and the ,glossary1 s4v4 ,,ichasoa4 #aah;b ,no one who has ever read the work of this ,abb would ever think of citing it as a serious authority4 ,it is entitled1 ,l'histoire des ,cantabres par l',abb d',iharce de ,bidassouet4 ,paris1 #ahbe4 ,basque1 according to the author1 was the primval language2 ,noah being still the ,basque for wine is an etymological record of the patriarch's unhappy inebriety6 #aah;c ,this work is entitled1 ,euscaldun ancia anciaco1 etc4 ,donostian1 #ahbf1 by ,juan ,ignacio de ,iztueta1 with an ,introduction in ,spanish1 and many ,basque songs with musical notation1 but without accompaniment4 #abj ,see further as to the ,basques1 ,burke's ,history of ,spain1 vol4 i4 ,app4 ,i4 #aba;a #ahch4 #aba;b ,see ante1 p4 #ajj1 and ,introduction4 #aba;c ,ofalia was prime minister from ,november #cj1 #ahcg1 to ,august1 #ahch1 when he was succeeded by the ,duke of ,frias4 #abg ,the mayor or chief magistrate4 ,politico is here used in the old sense of civic1 1 of the 2 gefe1 now spelt jefe chief4 #abi;a ,in ,the ,zincali1 part ii4 ch4 iv41 ,borrow places his imprisonment in ,march4 #abi;b ,rather civic2 see note on p4 #abg4 #aca 8,the city prison40 ,la ,corte is the capital1 as well as the court4 #acc 8,my master6 the constables1 and the catchpolls1 and all the other thieves 4 4 4 0 #acd;a ,see the ,glossary1 s4v4 ,,jargon4 #acd;b 8,he is very skilful40 #acf 8,are there no more80 #ada ,more like the ,french ,juge d',instruction4 #adc;a 8,come along1 ,sir ,george2 to your house1 to your lodgings60 #adc;b ,acts xvi4 #cg4 #adf ,people of renown4 #adg;a 8,mashes0 and mistresses4 ,majo is a word of more general signification than manolo4 ,the one is a dandy1 or smart fellow1 all over ,spain2 the other is used only of a certain class in ,madrid4 #adg;b ,more correctly1 ,carabanchel or ,carabancheles1 two villages a few miles south of ,madrid4 #adh ,this in prison6 #adi ,e4g4 in the citadel of ,pampeluna4 ,see ,journal of the ,gypsy ,lore ,society1 i4 #aeb4 #aeb ,perhaps ,waterloo4--,note by ,borrow4 #aed 8,it distresses me40 #aee ,robbing the natives4 #aef ,see chap4 xiii4 #afd ,the sun was setting1 and ,demos commands4 8,bring water1 my children1 that ye may eat bread this evening40 ,borrow has translated this song in the ,targum 7v4 p4 #cdc74 #afe ,the treasure-digger4 #agj ,see ,the ,zincali1 part ii4 chap4 iv4 #aga ,the duke became prime minister in ,august1 #ahch4 #age ,in ,gams' ,series ,episcoporum1 the standard authority on the subject1 the archiepiscopal see of ,toledo is noted as vacant from #ahcf to #ahdg4 ,nor is any hint given of how the duties of the office were performed4 ,don ,antonio ,perez ,hirias figures only as ,bishop of ,mallorca1 or ,majorca1 from ,december1 #ahbe1 to ,december1 #ahdg4 #agh;a ,kicks from behind4 #agh;b 8,i do not know40 #agi;a ,see note1 p4 #ajc4 #agi;b 8,to the gallows6 ,to the gallows60 #ahj;a 8,to the country6 ,to the country60 #ahj;b 8,ride on1 because of the word of truth1 of meekness1 and righteousness0 7,ps4 xlv4 #e1 ,p4,b4,v474 #ahh ,a nickname1 unhappily too commonly justified in ,southern ,spain1 where ophthalmia and oculists are equally dangerous4 ,it is remarkable how many of the great men in ,spanish history1 however1 have been distinguished by this blemish3 ,hannibal1 ,viriatus1 ,tric1 ,abdur ,rahman ,i41 and ,don ,juan el ,tuerto in the reign of ,alfonso ,,xi4 #aij ,byron1 ,don ,juan1 xiii4 #aa4 ,borrow probably knew well enough where the lines came from4 ,don ,juan had not been published more than fifteen years at the time1 and was in the zenith of its popularity4 ,but ,byron and his ways were alike odious to the rough manliness of ,borrow 7see ,lavengro1 ch4 xxxix471 and1 in good truth1 however much the poet 8deserves to be remembered10 it is certainly not for this line1 which contains as many suggestiones falsi as may be packed into one line4 ,yet the 8sneer0 is not in the original1 but in ,borrow's misquotation2 ,byron wrote 8smiled40 ,the idea of the poet having spent a handful of gold ounces in a ,genoese posada at ,seville and at a bull-fight at ,madrid1 that he might be competent to tell the world that ,cervantes sneered ,spain's chivalry away1 is superlatively ,borrovian--and delicious4 ,the entire passage runs thus-- 8,cervantes smiled ,spain's chivalry away2 ,a single laugh demolish'd the right arm ,of his own country2--seldom since that day ,has ,spain had heroes40 #aib ,about thirty pounds1 at the exchange of the day4 #aie;a 8,i wish to enlist with you40 #aie;b 8,gee up1 donkey60 ,from this arrh1 of ,arabic origin1 is derived the word arriero1 a muleteer4 #aig 8,blessed be ,god60 #aih ,see note1 ante1 p4 #aij4 #bja ,see vol4 i4 p4 #beg4 #bjb ,aranjuez1 the ,roman ,ara ,jovis1 was1 until the absorption of the great military order by the ,crown under ,isabella and ,ferdinand1 a favourite residence of the ,grand ,masters of ,santiago4 #bjc 8,die schnen ,tage in ,aranjuez ,sind nun zu ,ende40 ,the opening lines of ,don ,carlos4 #bjd ,an exceedingly ancient town1 celebrated in the days before the ,roman dominion4 #bje ,see ,glossary1 sub4 verb4 ,,schophon4 ,as to rabbits in ,spain1 see note1 vol4 i4 p4 #be4 #bjh ,the modern ,la ,granja or ,san ,ildefonso is1 in the season1 anything but desolate3 the beautiful1 if somewhat over-elaborate gardens1 are admirably kept up1 and the general atmosphere of the plain is bright and cheerful1 though the ,court of to-day prefers the sea-breezes of ,biscay to the air of the ,guadarrama1 when ,madrid becomes1 as it does1 well-nigh uninhabitable in summer4 #baa;a ,a particular scoundrel4 ,his massacre of prisoners1 ,november #i1 #ahch1 was remarkable for its atrocity1 when massacre was of daily occurrence4 ,see ,duncan1 ,the ,english in ,spain1 pp4 #bdg1 #bdh4 #baa;b ,see note1 vol4 i4 p4 #afd4 #bac ,august #ca1 #ahch4 #bae ,don ,carlos1 who probably died a natural death in #aefh4 #bag ,the etymology of ,andalusia is somewhat of a crux2 the various authorities are collected and reviewed in an appendix to ,burke's ,history of ,spain1 vol4 i4 p4 #cgi4 ,the true etymology may be ,vandalusia1 the abiding-place of the ,vandals1 though they abode in ,southern ,spain but a very short time2 but the word certainly came into the ,spanish through the ,arabic1 and not through the ,latin1 long years after ,latin was a spoken language4 ,the young lady was quite right in speaking of it as ,betica or ,btica2 though the ,terra would be superfluous1 if not incorrect4 #bah ,he had succeeded to that title on the death of his uncle1 ,december #bb1 #ahch4 #bai ,i4e4 8,my ,lord the ,sustainer of the ,kingdom40 ,see preface to ,the ,zincali1 second edition4 #bba;a ,tio4 ,a common method of address1 conveying no reference to real relationship4 ,so the ,boers in ,south ,africa speak of 8,oom 7uncle7 ,paul40 #bba;b 8,what beautiful1 what charming reading60 #bbc ,no hay otro en el mundo4 #bbd;a ,see note on p4 #adg4 #bbd;b 1 as ,antonio said4--,note by ,borrow4 ,i4e4 8,as is the place1 such is the character 7of the people740 #bbe ,alcal de ,henares4 ,see note1 vol4 i4 p4 #bbc4 #bbh;a 8,good night60 #bbh;b 8,good night to you60 #bcd ,or ,nevski of the ,neva2 as we have a ,thames ,street4 #bcf ,spanish1 duende4 ,see p4 #bch4 ,oddly enough in ,germana1 or thieves' slang1 duende ronda1 a night patrol4 #bcg ,madrid is not a city or ciudad1 but only the chief of villas4 #bdj ,in ,romany1 ,chuquel sos pirela cocal terela4 #bdb;a ,el ,nuevo ,testamento ,traducido al ,espaol de la ,vulgata ,latino por el ,rmo4 ,p4 ,phelipe ,scio de ,s4 ,miguel de las ,escuelas ,pias ,obispo ,electo de ,segovia4 ,madrid4 ,imprenta cargo de ,d4 ,joaquin de la ,barrera4 #ahcg4 #bdb;b ,the church of ,san ,gines is in the ,calle del ,arenal2 the chapel of ,santa ,cruz in the ,concepcion ,jernima4 #bdf ,this is a curious slip2 the spelling is found in the first and all subsequent editions4 ,the true name of the defile--it is between ,velez el ,rubio and ,lorca--is1 as might be supposed1 ,la ,rambla1 but the narrowest part of the pass is known as the ,puerto de ,lumbreras 7the ,pass of ,illumination71 and from ,rambla and ,lumbrera ,borrow or the printer of #ahdc evolved the strange compound ,rumblar6 #bdh ,this would naturally mean1 8,most reverend sir1 art thou still saying1 or1 dost thou still say ,mass80 which seems somewhat irrelevant4 ,possibly what 8the prophetess0 meant to ask was1 8,most reverend sir1 hast thou yet said ,mass80 #bea;a 8,knowest thou the land where the lemon-trees bloom80 ,the song of ,mignon in ,goethe's ,wilhelm ,meister1 introduced in the opera of ,faust4 #bea;b ,see note1 vol4 i4 p4 #baf4 #bef ,born at ,amalfi1 #afbc1 a simple fisherman4 ,he headed the rebellion of the ,neapolitans against the ,spanish viceroy1 in #afdg4 ,his success as a leader led to a revulsion of popular feeling1 and he was executed or murdered within a few days of his greatest triumph4 #bfa ,chiefly in their pronunciation of the characteristic ,g and ,z of the ,castilian as ,s instead of ,,th4 ,the ,south-,american ,spaniards1 so largely recruited from ,andalusia1 maintain the same sibilation1 which is about as offensive to a true ,castilian as the dropping of an ,h is to an educated ,englishman4 #bfb ,safacoro is the ,romany name for ,seville2 and ,len ,baro for the great river1 arabic ,wady al ,kebir1 the ,guadalquivir4 ,see ,glossary4 #bfc ,for further information about ,manuel and ,luis ,lobo1 who compiled a manuscript collection of the pseudo-gypsy writings of los del aficion1 or those addicted to the ,gitanos and their language1 see ,the ,zincali1 part iii4 chap4 ii4 #bfd;a 1 voc4 of 1 the usual mode of address1 8sir40 #bfd;b ,the name of a famous family of ,dutch printers 7#aeid-afhj74 #bff ,priests4 ,greek1 2 not ,spanish1 in which language ,papa means the ,pope 7of ,rome74 #bfg nothing at all4 #bgc ,the secondary signification of 8prosperity0 or 8good fortune0 is more familiar to ,english ears2 the word having come to us by way of the ,spanish1 ,american1 and ,californian mining camps4 #bgd 8,the ,illustrious ,scullion40 #bhb ,lit4 a butterfly4 #bhh ,this was ,mr4 ,john ,brackenbury4 #bib;a ,the great ,danish poet1 born in #aggi1 died #ahej2 see ante1 note1 vol4 i4 p4 #bi4 #bib;b ,october #ba1 #ahje4 #bic;a ,it is an ,american in our own day1 ,captain ,mahan1 ,u4,s4,n41 who has called attention1 in his masterly influence of ,sea ,power upon ,history1 to the transcendent importance of the battle of ,trafalgar1 hardly realized by the most patriotic ,englishman1 who had well-nigh forgotten ,trafalgar in celebrating the more attractive glories of ,waterloo4 #bic;b ,storm of east wind2 wind from the ,levant4 #bic;c ,i4e4 ,kafirs1 the ,arabic term of reproach1 signifying an unbeliever2 one who is not a ,moslem6 #bid ,the title formally granted to this ,alonzo ,perez de ,guzman1 under the sign-manual of ,king ,sancho the ,bravo1 was that of 8,the ,good40 ,his son was not crucified1 but stabbed to death by the ,infante ,don ,john1 with the knife that had been flung over the battlements of the city by the poor lad's father1 ,a4,d4 #abid 7see ,documentos ,ineditos para la ,historia de ,espaa1 tom4 xxxix4 pp4 #a-cig74 #bie ,rather of ,muza1 the commander-in-chief of the army that conquered ,gothic ,spain in #gaa4 ,tarifa similarly perpetuates the memory of one of his lieutenants1 ,trif2 and ,gibraltar is ,gibil ,tarik1 after ,tarik1 his second in command 7see ,burke's ,history of ,spain1 vol4 i4 pp4 #aaj-abj74 #bif;a ,the hill of the baboons4 #bif;b ,rather1 8,the ,island20 ,al ,jezirah4 #bih ,according to ,don ,pascual de ,gayangos1 ,thursday1 ,april #cj1 #gaa4 #cja ,in more modern slang1 8a rock scorpion40 #cjb 1 a polite locution in modern ,greek1 signifying 8you10 8your good self1 or1 selves40 #cjg ,more correctly1 the ,preobazhenski1 ,semeonovski1 and ,findlandski polks4 ,the first is a very crack regiment1 and was formed by ,peter the ,great in #afhb4 ,in #afib it took part in the capture of ,azov 7,toll1 8,nastolny ,slovar10 ,encyclop4 tom4 iii474 #cji ,this would have been ,general ,sir ,a4 ,woodford1 ,k4,c4,b41 ,g4,c4,m4,g4 #caj 8,a holy man this1 from the kingdoms of the ,east40 #caa ,a street in ,west ,hamburg1 near the port and the notorious ,heiligegeist1 frequented by a low class of ,jews and seafaring men4 #cab;a ,the living waters4 #cab;b ,into the hands of some one else--man alicujus4 ,peluni is the ,fulaneh of the ,arabs1 the ,don ,fulano of the ,spaniards2 ,mr4 ,so-and-,so2 ,monsieur ,chose4 #cad ,i4e4 8,the ,hill of the ,english10 near ,vitoria4 ,here1 in the year #acfg1 ,don ,tello1 with a force of six thousand knights1 cut to pieces a body of four hundred men-at-arms and archers1 under the command of ,sir ,thomas ,felton1 ,seneschal of ,guienne1 and his brother ,sir ,william4 ,see ,froissart1 i4 chap4 #bci2 ,ayala1 ,cronicas de los ,reyes de ,castilla1 i4 p4 #ddf2 ,mrime1 ,histoire de ,don ,pdre ,ier1 p4 #dhf4 #caf ,the popular name for ,etna--an etymology most suggestive1 ,mons 7,latin7 and gibil 7,arabic7 each signifying 8a mountain40 #cah ,the book ,zohar 7,hebrew1 8,brilliancy07 is1 next to the canonical ,scripture1 one of the ablest books in ,hebrew literature1 having been written by the ,rabbi ,simeon bar ,jocha1 8,the ,great ,light0 and 8,spark of ,moses10 early in the second century of our era4 ,the mysteries contained in the ,zohar are said to have been communicated to ,jocha during his twelve years' seclusion in a cave2 and they are specially revered by a sect of modern ,jews known as ,zoharites1 or ,sabbathians1 from their founder ,sabbata ,zevi1 who was born at ,smyrna in #afbe1 and claimed to be the true ,messiah1 but who1 to save himself from death as an impostor1 embraced the faith of ,islm at ,adrianople1 and died a ,moslem in #afgf4 ,yet a hundred years later another ,zoharite pretender1 ,jankiev ,lejbovicz1 who acquired the name of ,jacob ,frank1 of ,offenbach1 near ,frankfort1 and died only in #agib1 made himself famous in ,germany4 ,the ,zoharites were ,cabalistic1 as opposed to ,talmudic1 in their theology or theosophy1 and in later times have claimed to have much in common with ,christianity4--,see ,m4 ,j4 ,mayers 7of ,yarmouth71 ,a ,brief ,account of the ,zoharite ,jews 7,cambridge1 #ahbf72 and ,graetz1 ,history of the ,jews1 vol4 v4 pp4 #abe1 #bhi4 #cbb ,rabat4 #ccj #a ,kings xix4 #aa-ac4 #ccg ,on as a termination is usually indicative of size without admiration1 bigness rather than greatness1 as in the ,italian one4 #cdc;a ,the tomato was hardly known in ,england in #ahci1 and was not common for forty years after1 so ,borrow may be excused for giving the word in its ,spanish form4 ,the plant was introduced into ,spain from ,peru in the sixteenth century4 #cdc;b 8,lord of the ,world40 ,adun or ,adon is the well-known ,hebrew word for ,lord1 and is said to be the origin of the ,spanish title ,don4 ,oulem is the ,arab #8,olam4 ,the following lines are the first poem in the ,targum1 a collection of translations by ,borrow from thirty languages1 printed at ,st4 ,petersburg in #ahce3-- 8,reigned the universe's ,master1 ere were earthly things begun3 ,when his mandate all created ,ruler was the name he won2 ,and alone he'll rule tremendous when all things are past and gone1 ,he no equal has1 nor consort1 he1 the singular and lone1 ,has no end and no beginning2 his the sceptre1 might and throne4 ,he's my ,god and living ,saviour1 rock to whom in need ,i run2 ,he's my banner and my refuge1 fount of weal when called upon2 ,in his hand ,i place my spirit at nightfall and rise of sun1 ,and therewith my body also2 ,god's my ,god--,i fear no one40 #cdh ,in #afhd1 on the familiar official plea of 8economy40 #cdi 8,good morning1 ,o my lord40 #cea 8,there is no ,god but one40 #ced 8,buy here1 buy here40 #ceg;a ,this youth followed ,borrow to ,england1 where he was introduced to ,mr4 ,petulengro as a pal1 but rejected by him as 8no ,roman40 ,see ,the ,zincali1 ,preface to ,second ,edition4 #ceg;b 8,hail1 ,mary1 full of grace1 pray for me40 #ceg;c 8,remove the faithless race from the borders of the believers1 that we may gladly pay due praises to ,christ40 #cei ,this has been already alluded to as regards ,southern ,spain4 #cfj ,algiers4 #cfa ,essence of white flowers4 ,the ,arabic attar essence is well known in combination as otto or attar of roses4 ,nuar is a form of ,nawr flowers4 #cfb ,this was still market-day in #ahib4 #cfd ,nowhere has the destruction of locusts been undertaken in a more systematic manner1 or carried to greater perfection than in the island of ,cyprus1 where a special tax is levied by the ,british ,government to defray the expenses of what is called 8the war40 ,the system is the invention of a ,cypriote gentleman1 ,mr4 ,mattei4 #cfe ,more commonly known as the prickly pear 7,opuntia vulgaris74 #cfg;a ,the house of the trades ,borrow1 or rather 8of the handicrafts40 #cfg;b ,seashore4 ,see the ,glossary4 #cgb ,friday4 #cge ,the etymology of ,granada is doubtful4 ,before the invasion of ,spain by the ,arabs1 a small town of ,phnician origin1 known as ,karnattah1 existed near ,illiberis 7,elvira71 and probably on the site of the more modern city of ,granada4 ,the syllable ,kar would1 in ,phnician1 signify 8a town40 ,the meaning of nattah is unknown 7,gayangos1 i4 #cdg2 ,casiri1 ,bib4 ,ar4 ,hisp4 ,esc41 ii4 #bea2 ,conde1 ,hist4 ,dom41 i4 pp4 #cg-ea74 ,the supposition that the city owes its name to its resemblance to a ripe pomegranate 7granada7 is clearly inadmissible4 ,as in the case of ,leon1 the device was adopted in consequence of its appropriateness to an existing name--although the modern city of ,granada is probably not older than #ajbj4 ,the ,arabic word1 moreover1 for a pomegranate is romn2 and ,soto de ,roma1 the name of the ,duke of ,wellington's estate in ,andalusia1 means 8the wood of the pomegranates20 and an ensalada romana is not a ,roman1 but a pomegranate salad 7see ,pedaza1 ,hist4 ,eccl4 de ,granada #afah1 fol4 #ba1 #bb2 ,romey1 ,hist41 i4 #dgd1 #dge74--;,burke's ,hist4 of ,spain1 vol4 i4 p4 #aaf4 #cgf;a ,the most powerful1 or the most respected1 man in ,tangier4 ,power and respect are usually enjoyed by the same individual in the ,east4 #cgf;b 8,it does not signify40 #cgh ,see note1 vol4 i4 p4 #bdj4 #chb 8,algerine1 ,moor so keen1 ,no drink wine1 ,no taste swine40 #chc;a 8,that is not lawful40 #chc;b 8,everything is lawful40 #chc;c 8,hail1 star of the sea1 benign ,mother of ,god1 and for ever virgin1 blessed gate of heaven40 #cie ,andalusian for ciego4