,archive_/,american ,libraries47 ,,hand-,,book ,,of ,,practical ,,cookery1 ,,for ,,ladies ,,and ,,professional ,,cooks4 ,,containing ,,the ,,whole ,,science ,,and ,,art ,,of ,,preparing ,,human ,,food4 ,,by ,,pierre ,,blot1 ,,professor ,,of ,,gastronomy1 ,,and ,,founder ,,of ,,the ,,new ,,york ,,cooking ,,academy4 ,if ye be willing and obedient1 ye shall eat the good of the land4 ,,new ,,york3 ,d4 ,,appleton ,,and ,,company1 #a1 #c1 and #e ,,bond ,,street4 #ahhd4 ,entered1 according to ,act of ,congress1 in the year #ahfg1 by ,d4 ,,appleton ,,co41 ,in the ,clerk's ,office of the ,district ,court of the ,united ,states for the ,southern ,district of ,new ,york4 ,,preface4 ,food is the most important of our wants2 we cannot exist without it4 ,the man who does not use his brain to select and prepare his food1 is not above the brutes that take it in its raw state4 ,it is to the physique what education is to the mind1 coarse or refined4 ,good and well-prepared food beautifies the physique the same as a good and well-directed education beautifies the mind4 ,a cook-book is like a book on chemistry1 it cannot be used to any advantage if theory is not blended with practice4 ,it must also be written according to the natural products and climate of the country in which it is to be used1 and with a perfect knowledge of the properties of the different articles of food and condiments4 ,like many other books1 it is not the size that makes it practical2 we could have made this one twice as large as it is1 without having added a single receipt to it1 by only having given separate ones for pieces of meat1 birds1 fishes1 etc41 that are of the same kind and prepared alike4 ,all cook-books written by mere compilers1 besides giving the same receipt several times1 recommend the most absurd mixtures as being the best and of the latest ,french style4 ,although cookery has made more progress within two or three years1 in this country as well as in ,europe1 than it had since #ahcj1 and although all our receipts are complete1 practical1 wholesome1 and in accordance with progress1 still they are simple4 ,our aim has been to enable every housekeeper and professional cook1 no matter how inexperienced they may be1 to prepare any kind of food in the best and most wholesome way1 with economy1 celerity1 and taste2 and also to serve a dinner in as orderly a manner as any steward can do4 ,we did not intend to make a book1 such as that of ,,careme1 which cannot be used at all except by cooks of very wealthy families1 and with which one cannot make a dinner costing less than twenty dollars a head4 ,such a book is to housekeepers or plain cooks what a ,latin dictionary is to a person of merely elementary education4 ,if we give so many different ways of preparing the same article of food1 it is not with a view to complicate cookery1 but people's taste is in food as in dress1 differing not only in the selection of colors1 but also in shape2 therefore1 by our variety of dishes and our different styles of decorating them2 by the ease that they can be prepared in the cheapest as well as in the most costly way1 we think we have met all wants and all tastes4 ,the wealthy1 as well as those in limited circumstances1 can use our receipts with the same advantage4 ,our division of cookery and the system of arranging bills of fare1 contained in these pages1 solve that great and perplexing question1 especially for ladies1 how to arrange a bill of fare for every season1 to suit any number of guests1 at a greater or less expense1 as they may desire4 ,every one knows that money alone cannot make good dishes2 however good the raw materials may be1 they require proper preparations before being palatable and wholesome4 ,,to ,,housekeepers ,,and ,,cooks4 ,a cook-book cannot be used like a dictionary2 a receipt is like a rule of grammar3 to comprehend it thoroughly1 it is indispensable to understand others4 ,the author1 therefore1 earnestly recommends to his readers to begin by perusing carefully the directions1 etc41 at the beginning of the book1 and also the explanations given on and heading the different articles of food1 before attempting the preparation of a dish for the first time4 ,they will thus soon be able to prepare any dish by merely reading the receipt4 ,if all the explanations necessary were given at every receipt1 this work would have filled more than ten volumes like the present4 ,we are aware that the study of cookery is as uninviting and dry as the study of grammar at first2 so is the study of every science and even art2 but it becomes comparatively easy and interesting after a while4 ,mere flourish in a receipt would have the same effect as in a rule of grammar4 ,,to ,,cooks4 ,we think the following friendly recommendations will not be out of place here4 ,they are in the interest of both the housekeeper and the cook3 ,make use of every thing good4 ,waste nothing1 however little it may be4 ,have no prejudices4 ,be careful1 clean1 and punctual4 ,always bear in mind that routine is the greatest enemy of progress1 and that you have agreed to faithfully perform your daily duties for a certain consideration4 ,,pierre ,,blot4 ,new ,york1 ,august1 #ahfg4 ,,contents4 ,,page ,,cooking1 #i ,,directions1 ,,explanations1 ,,etc41 #af ,,divers ,,receipts1 #dd ,,potages ,,or ,,soups1 #fa ,,sauces1 #ig ,,farces ,,and ,,garnitures1 #aac ,,fish1 #abe ,,beef1 #afb ,,mutton1 #ahd ,,veal1 #bjb ,,pork1 #bbf ,,poultry1 #bcg ,,game1 #bgf ,,vegetables1 #cje ,,eggs1 ,,macaroni1 ,,and ,,rice1 #cef ,,sweet ,,dishes1 #cgf ,,pastry1 #dji ,,bills ,,of ,,fare1 #dei ,,index1 #dfe ,,cooking4 ,the science and art of cooking may be divided into ten principal parts2 the rest is all fancy4 ,these ten parts are3 ,baking1 ,boiling1 ,broiling1 ,frying1 ,mixing1 ,roasting1 ,sauteing1 ,seasoning1 ,simmering1 and ,stewing4 ,tasting is an adjunct to all4 ,baking4--,in baking1 see that the furnace or oven be properly heated2 some dishes require more heat than others4 ,look at the object in process of baking from time to time1 and especially at the beginning1 turn it round if necessary1 in case it be heated more on one side than on the other1 to prevent burning4 ,in baking meat and fish1 besides keeping the bottom of the pan covered with broth or water1 place a piece of buttered paper over the object in the pan2 it not only prevents it from burning1 but acts as a self-basting operation1 and keeps the top moist and juicy4 ,if the top of cakes bake faster than the rest1 place a piece of paper on it4 ,in most of our receipts1 we give the degree of heat necessary to bake the different objects2 it will1 no doubt1 be found valuable information4 ,boiling4--,this is the most abused branch in cooking2 we know that many good-meaning housewives and professional cooks boil things that ought to be prepared otherwise1 with a view to economy2 but a great many do it through laziness4 ,boiling requires as much care as any other branch1 but they do not think so1 and therefore indulge in it4 ,another abuse is to boil fast instead of slowly4 ,set a small ocean of water on a brisk fire and boil something in it as fast as you can1 you make much steam but do not cook faster2 the degree of heat being the same as if you were boiling slowly4 ,if the object you boil1 and especially boil fast1 contains any flavor1 you evaporate it1 and cannot bring it back4 ,many things are spoiled or partly destroyed by boiling1 such as meat1 coffee1 etc4 ,water that has been boiled is inferior for cooking purposes1 its gases and alkali being evaporated4 ,broiling4--,whatever you broil1 grease the bars of the gridiron first4 ,broiling and roasting is the same thing2 the object in process of cooking by either must be exposed to the heat on one side1 and the other side to the air4 ,bear in mind that no one can broil or roast in an oven1 whatever be its construction1 its process of heating1 or its kind of heat4 ,an object cooked in an oven is baked4 ,it is better to broil before than over the fire4 ,in broiling before the fire1 all the juice can be saved4 ,in broiling by gas1 there is a great advantage4 ,the meat is placed under the heat1 and as the heat draws the juice of the meat1 the consequence is1 that the juice being attracted upward1 it is retained in the meat4 ,a gas broiler is a square1 flat drum1 perforated on one side and placed over a frame4 ,broiling on live coals or on cinders without a gridiron is certainly not better than with one1 as believed by many2 on the contrary1 besides not being very clean1 it burns or chars part of the meat4 ,that belief comes from the fact that when they partook of meat prepared that way1 it was with a sauce that generally accompanies hunters1 fishermen1 etc41--hunger--the most savory of all savory sauces4 ,frying4--,that part of cooking is not as difficult as it is generally believed1 and properly fried objects are good and do not taste greasy4 ,to fry requires care1 and nothing fried will taste greasy if it has been dropped in fat properly heated and in enough of it to immerse the object4 ,when an object tastes greasy1 it is not because it has been fried in grease1 but because there was not enough of it1 or because it was not properly heated2 for1 if heated enough it closes the pores of the object and carbonizes the exterior1 so that it cannot absorb any4 ,directions for ,frying4--,prepare what you intend to fry according to the directions given in the different receipts4 ,have fat1 lard1 or oil in a pan1 enough to immerse the object or objects intended to be fried4 ,when the fat is hot enough 7see below71 place the object in a kind of wire basket made for that purpose1 which drop in the fat and take off when the object is fried4 ,it is handy1 and there is no danger of breaking the object in taking it off4 ,there are objects that require to be stirred or turned over while frying4 ,every time you fry any thing1 take the fat from the fire1 let it stand in a cool place for about five minutes1 then turn it gently into a stone jar or pot through a strainer2 let cool and put away4 ,in turning the fat1 lard1 or oil into the jar1 pour so that the dregs will be kept in the pan4 ,to ascertain with accuracy when the fat1 lard1 or oil is hot enough to lay the things in the pan1 dip a fork in cold water1 the prongs only2 so as to retain but one or two drops of water1 which drops you let fall in the fat1 and if it crackles1 it is hot enough4 ,another way is1 when jets of smoke come out of the fat4 ,there are objects that require more heat than others1 some that are more sightly when brown1 and others when of a pale-yellow hue4 ,if the object is desired brown1 leave the pan on a brisk fire while it is frying2 if otherwise1 remove it to a slow or less brisk fire4 ,fat is not like water1 which1 no matter how fast you boil it1 you cannot augment the degree of heat1 while you can that of fat4 ,if water1 by boiling it fast1 could be heated as much as fat1 it would be used to fry in its stead1 being cheaper4 ,mixing4--,in mixing1 pay due attention to the quantities we give in the receipts2 but as everybody has not the same taste1 it is very easy to augment or diminish the quantity of salt1 pepper1 sugar1 butter1 etc41 so as to suit one's own taste4 ,when the quantity is left to the judgment or taste of the cook1 that is1 when the expression about so much is made use of1 it is not necessary then to have the exact quantity2 a little more or a little less cannot spoil or partly destroy the dish4 ,roasting4--,when an object is placed on the spit according to directions1 remember that it cannot be basted too often4 ,the time necessary for roasting a piece of meat or any thing else1 depends as much upon the fire as upon the nature of the meat4 ,meat especially requires to be placed very near the fire at first1 and then put back by degrees4 ,there is nearly as much difference between roasted and baked meat as there is between broiled and fried meat4 ,it is generally admitted here1 that ,english roast-beef is so superior to ,american roast-beef that it cannot be compared to it4 ,it is not in the quality of the meat that the difference lies1 but in the process of cooking4 ,meat cannot be roasted in an oven1 be it in an ordinary or in a patented one4 ,that peculiar flavor in roasted meat is produced by the air coming constantly in contact with the heated meat while revolving on the spit4 ,cold roasted meat1 when desired to be served warm1 is enveloped in buttered paper and placed on the spit just long enough to warm it4 ,sauteing4--,there is no word1 that we know1 in the ,english language1 corresponding to the ,french word saute4 ,it differs from frying in this3 that to fry any object requires fat enough to immerse that object2 while to saute it1 requires just enough to prevent it from scorching4 ,vegetables1 omelets1 etc41 are sauted1 and not fried4 ,meat or fish cooked in a frying-pan with a little butter or fat1 is sauted1 and not fried2 but the term fried is most generally used1 the other being only known to practitioners4 ,to saute requires a brisk fire2 the quicker an object is cooked by sauteing the better4 ,seasoning4--,this is the most difficult part in the science of cooking4 ,to season is not difficult1 but to season properly is quite another thing4 ,it is not only necessary to know well how to stew or roast a peace of meat or any thing else1 but to know how to season it1 to be able to judge what quantity and what kind of spices can be used to season such or such a dish1 to what extent all the spices used agree together1 and what taste and flavor they will give to the object with which they are cooked2 for1 if not properly used1 they may just as likely destroy the taste and flavor of the object as improve it4 ,some dishes require high and much seasoning1 others just the contrary4 ,with a good fire and a good spit1 it is not necessary to be a thorough cook to roast a piece well1 but the cook is indispensable to mix the gravy or sauce with the proper seasonings4 ,simmering4--,simmering differs from boiling only in the amount of heat allowed under the boiler1 kettle1 or pan4 ,to simmer1 is to boil as gently and slowly as possible4 ,stewing4--,to stew properly it is necessary to have a moderate fire and as even as possible4 ,a brisk fire would cause much steam to evaporate1 which steam is the flavor of the object stewed4 ,tasting4--,this is the most difficult1 and at the same time the most delicate1 part of seasoning2 it is by tasting that we ascertain if we have seasoned properly4 ,in this only two of the senses are engaged1 and one of those much more than the other4 ,a person may have good feeling1 hearing1 and sight1 and for all that would not be fit for preparing the simplest dish2 the senses of smelling and tasting are the ones most required1 and without which no one can cook properly4 ,for these reasons we will take the liberty to recommend to housekeepers1 when they have new cooks1 to instruct them on their taste1 and always let them know when they have seasoned too much or too little4 ,to the cooks we will say1 do not season according to your own taste1 if the persons for whom you cook do not like it4 ,if the housekeeper would give his or her candid and frank opinion of the dishes to the cook1 and if the latter be not stubborn1 the best results might be obtained and both would be benefited by it4 ,that ought to be done every day while making the bill of fare4 ,to taste a sauce1 as well as to know if a thing is good to eat1 we cannot trust either our eyes1 fingers1 or ears2 we then have recourse1 first to our smelling1 and then to our tasting3 so do most animals4 ,we always commence by smelling1 and when that sense is satisfied as far as it is concerned1 we then apply our tasting qualities2 and if that last one is1 in its turn1 satisfied also1 we proceed1 that is1 we masticate1 if mastication is necessary1 and then swallow4 ,,directions1 ,,explanations1 ,,etc4 ,,anise4 ,anise comes from ,egypt1 and is used as a spice4 ,,apricot4 ,this is a native of ,armenia4 ,it is served like plums and peaches2 in salad1 compote1 etc4 ,,bacon4 ,never use smoked bacon or ham1 except when especially directed4 ,the smoky taste would spoil the dish4 ,,bain-,,marie4 ,a bain-marie is a large vessel of hot or boiling water1 in which saucepans1 kettles1 moulds1 etc41 are placed to prepare or warm food4 ,it is also used to keep any kind of food warm1 when something is ready to serve1 and the time has not come2 the utensil containing it is placed in hot water1 and it not only keeps it warm1 but there is almost no evaporation while in it4 ,it does not boil away either4 ,there are things that are much more delicate when prepared or warmed in hot water4 ,one utensil made for that purpose1 and of brass1 with compartments1 is more handy1 but a large saucepan may be used in its stead4 ,when any thing is in the bain-marie1 the water should not be allowed to boil fast enough either to upset the pans or get into them4 ,,bake-,,pans4 ,a bake-pan for baking meat1 fish1 or any other object that requires liquor of any kind1 must have borders in order to hold that liquor2 but a bake-pan for cakes or any other object that does not require any liquor1 or that does not turn liquid in baking1 is better without borders--that is1 a simple piece of sheet iron of a size to go easily in the oven4 ,,bay-,,leaf4 ,this is known also under its ,french name laurier4 ,it is used as a spice2 it is exceedingly cheap and is excellent to flavor sauces1 gravies1 etc4 ,it comes especially from ,italy1 where it is used to pack figs1 oil1 and different fruits4 ,,beets4 ,the red beet is much used to decorate different dishes4 ,it is boiled1 then pickled1 cut in fancy shapes1 either with a knife or with paste-cutters1 and tastefully placed on or around the object it is used to decorate4 ,it is served as a hors-d'oeuvre1 pickled1 and cut in slices4 ,to boil4--,set it on a good fire in a pan1 covered with cold water1 and boil gently till done4 ,the beet must not be touched at all with any thing rough1 for if the skin or root is cut or broken1 all the color goes away in boiling1 it is not fit to decorate1 and loses much of its quality4 ,when you buy beets1 see that they are not bruised1 and that the root is not broken4 ,,braising4 ,braising1 in cookery1 means to cook any thing with fire under and upon the pan1 kettle1 or other utensil4 ,a good oven is by far more easy1 and answers perfectly the purpose4 ,an oven not only warms the under and upper parts of the utensil1 but all around it also4 ,,bunch ,,of ,,seasonings4 ,it is composed of parsley1 thyme1 bay-leaf1 and cloves1 and sometimes a clove of garlic is added4 ,place the sprigs of parsley in the left hand1 rather spread1 lay the others on and in the middle of the parsley1 and envelop them in it as well as possible1 then tie the whole with twine4 ,as all these seasonings are never served except when chopped1 they are more easily taken out than if they were not tied together4 ,,buttered ,,paper4 ,dip in lukewarm butter a piece of white paper of the size you want1 and envelop the piece to broil or roast with it4 ,tie the paper around with twine or coarse thread4 ,,oiled ,,paper4 ,the only difference between oiled and buttered paper is1 that it is dipped in sweet or olive oil instead of butter4 ,,catsup4 ,beware of what is sold under the name of catsups and pickles2 many cases of dyspepsia1 debility1 and consumption come from using such stuff4 ,,caviare4 ,it is made with the roes1 hard and soft1 of the sterlet4 ,it is imported from ,russia1 and is served as a hors-d'oeuvre1 with slices of lemon and toast4 ,,cervelas1 ,,saucissons1 ,,etc4 ,cervelas1 saucissons1 as well as smoked sausages1 are pork-butchers' preparations1 cut slantwise in very thin slices1 and served as hors-d'oeuvre1 with parsley in the middle of the dish4 ,,cheese4 ,cheese is the first plate of dessert to be partaken of4 ,a dinner without cheese is like a handsome lady with but one eye4--,brillat-,savarin4 ,cheese takes away all the taste that might be left from preceding dishes1 and by that means prepares the palate for the appreciation of the good things1 the delicate flavors of the dessert and wines4 ,,cochineal4 ,cochineal1 or carmine4 ,buy the cochineal in powder1 prepared for cooking purposes1 mix some 7say the size of half a split pea7 with a few drops of cold water and mix that again with what you wish to color4 ,the quantity of cochineal is according to the quantity of mixture and also according to how deep the color is desired4 ,,chervil4 ,this comes from ,italy1 and is used in salad and as a spice4 ,,colander4 ,besides the ordinary colander1 it is necessary to have a fine one4 ,we mean1 by a fine colander1 one with holes half the size of the ordinary ones1 that is1 just between the colander and strainer4 ,a colander should not have holes on the sides2 it is handier and more clean with holes at the bottom only4 ,,curry4 ,we think that curry is very good and necessary on the borders of the ,ganges ,river1 and for that very reason we think also that it ought to be eschewed on the borders of the ,hudson1 ,delaware1 ,ohio1 and thereabouts4 ,we cannot describe curry better than by giving here the answer 7verbatim et literatim7 of a gentleman who has lived a few years in ,java1 to a question on the properties and qualities of curry4 ,he said that he thought it good and even necessary to use some there on account of the climate1 but every time he had eaten it he thought he was swallowing boiling alcohol or live coals4 ,,dining-,,room4 ,it must be well ventilated and lighted4 ,the best degree of temperature is about #ff degrees ,fahr4 ,,dish4 ,a dish ought to be charming to the eye1 flattering to the smell1 and delicious to the taste4 ,,draining4 ,to drain1 is to put in a colander any thing that has been soaked1 washed1 or boiled1 etc41 in water or any other liquid1 in order to dry it1 or at least to let drop from it the water or other liquid that may be in it4 ,salads of greens1 as a general thing1 are drained after being washed1 before putting them in the salad-dish2 they must be drained as dry as possible1 but without pressing on them1 as it would wilt the leaves1 and give the salad an unsightly appearance4 ,,dusting4 ,a pan1 after being buttered or greased1 is dusted with flour1 sugar1 or even bread-crumbs1 to prevent the mixture that is put in it from sticking4 ,sugar1 etc41 may also be sprinkled over dishes with a dredger4 ,,drinking4 ,when weary1 or cold1 or warm1 or exhausted1 we drink in preference to eating1 because we feel the effect instantaneously2 while after eating even the most substantial food1 we do not feel the effect for some time4 ,when exhausted and when immediate relief is necessary1 the best drinks are broth1 chocolate1 milk1 or water sweetened with sugar4 ,it is more than a mistake to drink wines or liquors at such a time2 it is really committing slow suicide4 ,when only thirsty1 without exhaustion1 we ought to drink cold water with a teaspoon4 ,when thirsty and heated1 the first thing to do is to dip the hands in cold water deep enough just to cover the wrists2 then dip a towel in the water1 lay it on the forehead1 and then drink cold water with a teaspoon4 ,a few drops of vinegar or lemon-juice may be added to the water4 ,if exceedingly hot1 keep your hands in cold water and the towel on your forehead at least one minute before drinking4 ,,hot ,,weather4 ,a remark or two on eating and drinking in hot weather are always in season4 ,green vegetables1 properly cooked1 are certainly healthful in warm weather2 but it is a mistake to think that meat should be excluded from summer diet4 ,the hotter the weather1 the more the system wastes1 and therefore the more we must supply4 ,in order to keep the body in a healthful condition1 meat ought to be eaten at least once a day in summer-time4 ,it would be well to vary this programme by taking one meal of fish on every other day4 ,fat should be disused as much as possible4 ,a very little good butter with your fresh radishes at breakfast is as much fat as is necessary4 ,,cold ,,weather4 ,fat meat is good in winter and is relished2 so are dry vegetables and saccharine substances4 ,,food4 ,nature has provided man with a mind1 in order that he should study what kind of food suits his constitution2 he who does not do it1 is not above the lower animals4 ,good things have been made by the ,creator for good people1 flowers have certainly not been made for brutes1 either quadruped or biped4--,jefferson4 ,it is from good things that1 in a human point of view1 we derive the strength necessary to our limbs1 let us partake of the same and be thankful4--,rev4----,chadband4 ,have your food selected and prepared according to constitution1 occupation1 climate1 age1 and sex4 ,waste in females is greater than in males4 ,animals1 generally1 are very careful in selecting their food4 ,a temporary bloatedness may be obtained1 especially with the young1 by eating much farinaceous food1 such as pancakes1 etc41 but it does not last1 and is sure to bring on disease or sickness1 or both4 ,man is omnivorous1 and must be fed accordingly4 ,extreme leanness comes from want of proper food1 either in youth or old age4 ,it is not the amount that is eaten which nourishes1 but the amount that is digested2 an excess of food is as bad as a lack of it4 ,good and well-baked bread is nutritious and healthful1 while unbaked bread is heavy and difficult of digestion4 ,take at least half an hour's rest after a hearty meal1 for mind and stomach cannot work at the same time4 ,never eat when angry1 or tired1 or when heated2 but be as cool and as gay as possible1 for food being exposed to a heat of about #ajj degrees ,fahr1 in the stomach1 would ferment instead of digesting4 ,take a hearty but by no means heavy dinner4 ,eat slowly1 at regular hours1 and masticate well1 but do not bolt your food1 or eat any thing that does not taste good4 ,drink slowly1 moderately1 and always taste before swallowing4 ,vary your food as much as possible4 ,always have at least one dish of vegetables for dinner1 besides meat1 and also ripe fruit4 ,see that every thing you eat or drink is of a good quality1 wholesome and properly prepared4 ,,economy4 ,there is not a word so much misused in cooking as the word economy4 ,prejudice comes for a large share in the use of it4 ,how many things are thrown away1 or wasted by mere prejudice or ignorance6 ,it is often from economy that a woman washes meat1 because some part of it does not look clean4 ,instead of washing it1 do not buy it2 or1 if bought1 cut off a thin slice and throw it away3 it is more economical than washing the whole piece1 which you partly destroy by the process4 ,it is with a view to economy1 that an old1 bad custom prevails of boiling coffee4 ,what an economy of sending the best part of the coffee 7the aroma7 to the attic1 and the rest to the dining-room4 ,a bad drink can be made cheaper with many things than with coffee4 ,tea is also boiled with an eye to economy4 ,,egg-,,beater4 ,we have tried five different kinds in ,boston1 before a large audience and on the demand of an inventor of one1 but none could beat eggs as well as a common hand-beater4 ,the whites of the eggs could not be raised with any of the others much more than half as much as with the common one2 and besides1 could not be beaten stiff4 ,many persons do not succeed in making cakes of different preparations in which whites of eggs beaten to a stiff froth are used1 because the eggs are not properly beaten4 ,any tinsmith can make an egg-beater4 ,it is generally made with tin-wire1 but may be made with brass-wire4 ,with the cut below1 as a model1 it can be easily made4 ,illustration ,the handle a is of tin1 into which the tin wires b are fastened and soldered4 ,,errors ,,in ,,cooking4 ,ignorance produces abuse or error1 or both4 ,blissful ignorance may be a fine thing in some cases1 but either in preparing or partaking of food1 it is certainly more than an abuse1 it is a dangerous error4 ,it is by ignorance or disease that man abuses wine or any other liquor4 ,it is by ignorance or prejudice that many eschew the best and most healthful of condiments1 such as garlics1 onions1 etc4 ,they dislike them on account of their pungent taste when raw1 not knowing that when cooked it is all evaporated4 ,their pungent taste comes from the volatile oil they contain1 and which evaporates in cooking2 it cannot be retained1 but their sugar is retained1 and gives such a good flavor to gravies and sauces4 ,,fennel4 ,this is said to be a native of the ,canary ,islands2 it has a very strong taste1 and is used as a spice1 especially in blood pudding4 ,the ,romans used a great deal of it4 ,,fig4 ,the fig-tree comes from ,mesopotamia4 ,figs are generally served as hors-d'oeuvre1 or used in puddings1 etc4 ,,fines ,,herbes4 ,parsley and cives chopped fine1 and used for omelets1 or with cold meat1 sauces1 etc41 are called thus4 ,,flour4 ,in cooking1 new flour is not as good as old2 it does not thicken as well and as fast4 ,,foies ,,gras4 ,foies1 or pates de foies gras are made with geese-livers1 fresh fat pork1 truffles1 ham1 fines herbes1 and spices4 ,they are always served cold as a releve or entree1 but most generally they are used for lunch or supper4 ,,fruit-,,corer4 ,there are many sizes in the set1 to core from a pineapple to a cherry4 ,illustration ,,galantine4 ,the word galantine means a boned bird1 or a boned shoulder of veal4 ,,glazing4 ,glazing is generally done by means of a brush or with feathers4 ,a beaten egg1 or syrup1 or jelly1 or egg and sugar1 etc41 are used to glaze cakes1 etc4 ,it is done by dipping the brush into the egg or jelly1 and by spreading it on the cake or other object before baking or before serving1 as directed in the different receipts4 ,it is also done by sifting powdered sugar on cakes which are put back in the oven for a short time--that is1 the time necessary to melt the sugar4 ,,indigestion4 ,a cup of tea and camomile1 half of each1 with a few drops of orange-flower water1 and the whole well sweetened and taken warm1 is very good after having eaten something difficult to digest4 ,,italian ,,pastes4 ,macaroni1 vermicelli1 and the like dry pastes1 are called ,italian pastes1 whatever the shape--round1 oval1 or star-like4 ,,isinglass4 ,it is sometimes used instead of gelatine to make jellies4 ,,jelly-,,bag4 ,make a conical bag of good white flannel1 about twenty inches long1 fifteen inches broad at one end when spread on a flat surface1 or about thirty inches in circumference1 the other end being the point4 ,sew to it four pieces of white tape at the large end1 and at equal distances1 so that two sticks may be run into them4 ,the sticks are placed on chairs or something else1 in order to have the point of the bag about one foot from the floor4 ,it is then ready to pass the jellies through it4 ,illustration ,,kitchen ,,utensils4 ,gastronomists use1 in preference to any thing else1 crockery or earthen pans2 or1 for want of these1 block-tin pans4 ,copper is1 in the end1 the cheapest of all2 but ,american cooks do not like them because they require too much care and must be examined every day2 to prevent any accident1 it is necessary to keep the inside properly lined4 ,many indispositions are caused by food prepared in copper not properly lined2 even food allowed to cool in a well-lined pan would be dangerous4 ,pans lined with porcelain are excellent1 but the trouble with them is1 that they crack1 and after that cannot be cleaned2 something will always remain between the lining and the iron1 and spoil every thing cooked in them4 ,the tin-lined are preferable1 on account of being easily cleaned by means of a small birch-broom1 washing-soda1 and boiling water4 ,,lait ,,de ,,poule4 ,mix well in a tumbler a yolk of egg and a teaspoonful of sugar2 then add a few drops of orange-flower water 7eau de fleur d'oranger72 pour boiling water on the whole1 little by little1 stirring the while1 and drink warm4 ,the quantity of water is according to taste4 ,a gill of water to a yolk of egg makes it thick enough4 ,it makes an excellent drink1 to be taken just before retiring1 for persons with cough4 ,,lard4 ,never buy lard ready made if you can help it1 but take hog's fat1 the part enveloping the kidneys1 or leaf lard1 and chop it fine1 put it in a cast-iron or crockery kettle with a bay-leaf and a stalk of thyme to every two pounds of fat2 set on a moderate fire1 and as soon as it begins to melt1 take the melted part out with a ladle1 and put it in a stone jar or pot2 be careful not to take any pieces of fat not yet melted4 ,continue that process till it is all melted4 ,the dry or hard part that remains at the bottom of the kettle when done is no good4 ,lard made thus is as white as snow1 and may be kept a long time4 ,when there is water in lard1 it flies all over the fire2 in that case1 boil it a few minutes with a cover on the pan1 and then use4 ,,fat ,,for ,,frying4 ,take beef suet1 the part around the kidneys1 or any kind of fat1 raw or cooked2 remove as much as possible fibres1 nerves1 thin skin1 or bones2 chop it fine1 put it in a cast-iron or crockery kettle2 add to it the fat you may have skimmed from the top of broth1 sauces or1 gravies4 ,set the pan on a moderate fire2 boil gently for about fifteen minutes1 skim it well during the process2 take from the fire1 let it stand about five minutes1 and then strain4 ,put it in a stone jar or pot1 and keep it in a dry and cool place4 ,cover the jar when perfectly cold4 ,it is as good as lard and more handy2 it does not fly over the pan like lard4 ,a careful cook seldom buys fat2 generally there is enough coming from skimming of broth1 sauces1 and gravies1 for every purpose4 ,,to ,,clarify ,,fat4 ,set the fat on a moderate fire in a pan1 and as soon as it commences to boil1 place a slice of bread dried in the oven in it1 boil gently for about half an hour2 take from the fire1 let it settle for a few minutes2 remove the bread1 turn gently into a jar or pot1 leaving the dregs in the pan4 ,chicken1 ,turkey1 and ,goose ,fat4--,the fat of the above birds is never used to fry1 but to saute instead of butter4 ,to make omelets it is excellent2 an omelet is whiter and more sightly made with chicken-fat than when made with butter4 ,it is clarified as directed above4 ,,game-,,fat4 ,game-fat can be used instead of other fat and also instead of butter1 to saute1 or what is generally called partly fry1 game2 it may also be used1 instead of butter to bake game4 ,it must be clarified longer than other fat1 but in the same way4 ,the boiling of fat with water1 as indicated in some cook-books1 is only a fancy and extra work1 it has no effect whatever on the fat4 ,it is the same by keeping it for hours in a bain-marie2 it does not change it in the least4 ,,batter ,,for ,,frying4 ,for frying ,vegetables4--,put three tablespoonfuls of flour in a bowl with two yolks of eggs1 and cold water enough to make a kind of thin paste1 then add salt and half a teaspoonful of sweet oil2 mix well4 ,beat the two whites of the eggs to a stiff froth and mix them with the rest4 ,put the batter away in a cold place for at least two hours1 and use4 ,it must not be put away longer than for half a day4 ,another4--,proceed as above in every particular1 except that you use milk instead of water4 ,for frying ,fish4--,make it exactly as the above1 except that you do not use any oil4 ,for frying ,fritters4--,mix well together in a bowl three tablespoonfuls of flour with two yolks of eggs and cold water enough to make a thin paste2 add a pinch of sugar1 rum or brandy1 or any other liquor1 according to taste1 from one to three or four tablespoonfuls1 mix well again1 and put away for at least two or three hours1 but not longer than twelve hours4 ,eggs and ,crumbs for frying4--,the eggs are beaten as for omelets1 with a little salt4 ,the objects to be fried are dipped in the eggs first1 then rolled in bread-crumbs and fried4 ,another4--,when rolled in bread-crumbs as above2 dip again in the eggs1 roll again in bread-crumbs and fry4 ,another4--,dip the object in melted butter1 then in eggs1 and roll in bread-crumbs2 fry4 ,,larding4 ,all pork-butchers sell salt pork for larding4 ,cut it in slices and then by cutting the slices across it makes square strips or fillets4 ,the strips must be of a proper size to be easily inserted into the larding-needle1 and are about two inches and a half long4 ,when the needle is run half way through the meat1 insert the salt pork into it1 pull the needle off and leave the salt pork inside of the meat1 both ends of it sticking out4 ,if it were running through1 that is1 if the salt pork were pulled off with the needle1 most likely the strips are too small2 then pull slowly1 and when the salt pork is far enough into the meat1 press on it with the finger and pull the needle1 it will then stay in its proper place4 ,it is better to cut a few strips first and try if they are of a proper size4 ,if1 in pulling off the needle1 the salt pork does not enter the meat1 the strips are too large4 ,if the strips are of a proper size and break while pulling the needle off1 then the pork is not good4 ,fricandeau1 sweetbreads1 birds1 etc41 are larded in the same way4 ,for beef a la mode1 it is described in the receipt4 ,,larding-,,needle4 ,the best are made of brass4 ,those that are sold for steel are generally of iron1 and break easily4 ,those for beef a la mode are of steel1 and must be flat near the point1 in order to cut the meat4 ,,leaven4 ,knead four ounces of flour with baker's yeast1 enough to make a rather thick dough2 give it the shape of a rather flat apple2 with a sharp knife make two cuts on the top and across1 and through about one-third of the paste2 put the paste in a pan of lukewarm water4 ,in a few minutes it will float2 take it off and use then after it has floated about two minutes4 ,,meat4 ,the time it takes to cook meat depends as much on the quality of the meat as on the fire4 ,some persons like meat more done than others2 in many cases you must consult your own taste or that of your guests4 ,beef1 lamb1 mutton1 and game1 may be eaten rather underdone1 according to taste2 domestic fowls must be properly cooked2 but pork and veal must always be overdone1 or else it is very unwholesome1 if not dangerous4 ,the following table may be used as a guide3 ,bear and ,buffalo1 a five-pound piece1 #e to #g hrs4 ,wild ,boar and ,woodchuck1 ,do4 do4 #c to #d hrs4 ,beef1 ,do4 do4 #a hr4 #cj m4 ,do4 a ten pound piece1 #b hrs4 #cj m4 ,capon1 a large one1 #a hour4 ,chicken1 a middling-sized one1 #de min4 ,duck1 a large one1 #de min4 ,do4 a small one1 #cj min4 ,goose1 a large one1 #b hours4 ,do4 a small one1 #a hr4 #cj m4 ,grouse1 ,heathcock1 ,snipe1 and ,w'dcock1 a fat one1 #cj min4 ,do4 do4 do4 do4 a lean one1 #bj min4 ,guinea ,fowl1 a middling-sized one1 #a hour4 ,hare1 an old one1 #a hr4 #cj m4 ,do4 a young one1 about #a hr4 ,lamb and ,kid1 a large quarter1 #a hour4 ,do4 do4 a small one1 #de min4 ,mutton1 a four-pound piece1 #a hour4 ,do4 a six #a hr4 #cj m4 ,partridge1 ,pheasant1 and ,prairie-,hen1 a middling-sized one1 #cj to #de m4 ,pigeon1 one1 #cj min4 ,pork1 a two-pound piece1 #a hr4 #ae m4 ,do4 a four #b hours4 ,quail1 one1 #bj min4 ,sucking-,pig1 a large one1 #b hrs4 #cj m4 ,do4 do4 a small one1 #b hours4 ,rabbit1 a middling-sized one1 #cj to #de min4 ,robin1 ,blackbird1 ,fig-pecker1 ,high-holder1 ,lapwing1 ,meadow ,lark1 ,plover1 ,reed-bird1 ,thrush1 ,yellow-bird1 and other small birds1 #ae to #bj min4 ,turkey1 a large one1 #a hr4 #cj m4 ,do4 a small one1 about #a hour4 ,veal1 a two-pound piece1 #a hr4 #ae m4 ,venison1 a four about #a hour4 ,the following table may be used as a guide to know how long meat may be kept1 in a cool1 dry1 and dark place2 and protected from flies or other insects3 ,in ,summer4 ,in ,winter4 ,bear and ,buffalo1 #c to #d days4 #aj to #ae days4 ,wild ,boar and ,woodchuck1 #c to #d #h to #aj ,beef and ,pork1 #b to #d #f to #aj ,capon1 #b to #c #d to #h ,chicken1 old one1 #c to #d #d to #aj ,do4 young one1 #a to #b #b to #f ,deer1 ,partridge1 ,pheasant1 ,prairie-,hen1 ,quail1 ,guinea-,fowl1 and ,turkey1 #b to #c #f to #aj ,duck and ,goose1 #c to #d #d to #h ,hare and ,rabbit1 #b to #c #d to #h ,grouse1 ,heathcock1 ,snipe1 and ,woodcock1 #c to #d #h to #ae ,lamb1 ,kid1 ,sucking ,pig1 and ,veal1 #b to #c #c to #f ,mutton1 #b to #c #f to #aj ,pigeons1 ,blackbirds1 ,fig-peckers1 ,high-holders1 ,lapwings1 ,meadow ,larks1 ,plovers1 ,reed-birds1 ,robins1 ,thrushes1 ,yellow-birds1 and other small birds1 #b to #c #f to #aj ,the time must be reduced one-half in summer1 in stormy or damp weather1 and one-third in winter1 in thawing or rainy weather4 ,fish4--,when cleaned and prepared as directed1 place it in a crockery stewpan1 cover it with cold water1 add a little salt1 two or three sprigs of thyme1 and one or two bay-leaves4 ,it will keep thus for some time4 ,,moulds4 ,mould for ,meat ,pies4--,a mould for meat pies may be round or oval2 it must be in two pieces1 fastened together by a kind of hinge4 ,when the pie is baked1 the wire pin holding the mould is pulled1 and the mould removed4 ,illustration ,mould for ,pies1 ,jellies1 etc4--,this mould may be used for any thing that requires a mould2 it may also be round1 oval1 or of any other shape4 ,illustration ,,olives4 ,fresh and ripe they are served as dessert with other fruit4 ,preserved1 they are served as a hors-d'oeuvre1 and used to flavor and decorate different dishes4 ,olives as well as sardines are healthful and considered one of the best hors-d'oeuvre4 ,,osmazome4 ,osmazome is found in beef1 mutton1 full-grown domestic fowls1 venison1 and game2 in the latter1 when the bird or animal is adult4 ,in meat soup1 the osmazome is the soluble part of the meat that dissolves in boiling1 and makes nutritious broth4 ,in broiled or roasted pieces1 it is that part which makes a kind of brown crust on the surface of the meat1 and also the brownish part of the gravy4 ,chicken1 lamb1 sucking-pig1 veal1 etc41 do not contain any osmazome4 ,,parsley1 ,,chervil1 ,,thyme1 ,,celery1 ,,sage1 ,,etc41--,,for ,,winter ,,use4 ,hang in the shade1 under a shed1 or in a garret1 and in a clean and dry place1 some small bunches of parsley1 chervil1 celery1 etc41 the roots upward2 leave them thus till perfectly dry1 then place them in your spice-box for winter use4 ,the best time for drying them is at the end of ,october or the beginning of ,november2 dig them up in fine and dry weather1 so as to have them clean without washing4 ,soak in cold water half an hour before using4 ,,white ,,pepper4 ,this is black pepper decorticated4 ,put peppercorns in a bowl1 cover with cold water1 and leave thus till the skin is tender2 then drain4 ,take the skin off1 let it dry1 grind it2 place with your other spices1 and use where directed4 ,it takes many days for the skin to become tender4 ,,quality ,,of ,,meat1 ,,fish1 ,,vegetables1 ,,fruit1 ,,etc4 ,the quality of meat depends entirely on the quality of food with which the animal has been fed4 ,for fish1 the taste or quality is according to the kind of water in which they have lived2 fish from a muddy pond smell of mud1 while fish from a clear brook are delicious4 ,the same difference exists in vegetables and fruit2 their quality is according to the quality or nature of the ground in which they have been grown4 ,,pastry-,,bag4 ,a bag for pastry is made with thick1 strong linen2 of a conical shape1 about one foot long1 eight inches broad at one end when spread on a flat surface1 and which makes about sixteen inches in circumference1 and only one inch and a quarter at the other end1 and in which latter end a tin tube is placed1 so that the smaller end of the tin tube will come out of the smaller end of the bag4 ,putting then some mixture into the bag and by pressing from the upper end downward1 the mixture will come out of the tin tube4 ,,raw ,,materials4 ,if ,american cookery is inferior to any other generally1 it is not on account of a want of the first two requisites--raw materials and money to buy them2 so there is no excuse for it1 both are given to the cooks4 ,here1 where markets rival the best markets of ,europe and even surpass them in abundance1 it is really a pity to live as many do live4 ,,scalloped ,,knife4 ,this knife is used to cut beets1 carrots1 turnip-rooted celery1 potatoes1 radishes1 and turnips2 in slices1 round1 oblong1 or of any other shape2 either to decorate dishes1 or to be served alone or with something else1 or to be fried4 ,illustration ,the annexed cuts will give an idea of what can be done with it4 ,it is understood that the vegetables are peeled first4 ,illustration ,,shallots4 ,shallots come from ,syria4 ,shallot is stronger than garlic and onion2 a real ,tartar sauce cannot be made without shallot4 ,the small1 green onion is a good substitute for it4 ,,skewers4 ,the cuts below are skewers4 ,the common ones are used to fasten pieces of meat together2 to roast or bake small birds1 liver in brochette1 etc41 etc4 ,illustration ,those to decorate are only used with different flowers or vegetables1 and stuck inside of different pieces of meat as a decoration4 ,they are removed just before carving4 ,the use of them is explained in the different receipts4 ,they may be different from those seen in the cuts4 ,,spices4 ,the cooks of this country generally have a queer idea of what they call ,french cookery and ,french spices4 ,some honestly believe that to make a ,french dish a great deal of pepper and other strong seasonings must be put in4 ,many other persons1 who have not been in ,europe1 really believe also1 that ,french cookery is what is called highly-seasoned4 ,there never was a greater mistake4 ,if ,french cooks use several kinds of spices1 and may-be more than ,american cooks1 they are not the same2 or if some are the same1 such as pepper1 they use them in much smaller proportions4 ,they generally use thyme1 parsley1 bay-leaf1 chervil1 tarragon1 etc41 which are aromatic2 but never use 7in this climate7 ginger1 curry1 cayenne pepper1 pimento1 catsups1 variegated colored pickles made with pyroligneous acids1 etc41 and which are very exciting and irritating4 ,some of our readers may naturally ask3 ,how is it that ,french cookery is believed by many to be the contrary of what it really is8 ,because every eating-house1 of no matter what size1 pretends to be a first-rate one or a fashionable one--and to be first-rate or fashionable must1 as a matter of course1 have ,french cooks1 or at least cook ,french dishes4 ,you enter the place1 ask for a ,french dish2 or1 ask if you can have such a dish1 a la ,francaise8 ,you are politely and emphatically answered in the affirmative2 and very often the polite waiter says that a ,french cook presides in the kitchen4 ,result6--the cook1 be he from the ,green ,isle or of ,african descent1 receiving the order to prepare a ,french dish1 puts a handful of pepper in the already too much peppered1 old-fashioned prepared dish1 and sends it to the confident customer as a genuine ,french dish4 ,said customer never asks a second time for a ,french dish1 and pronounces ,french cookery to be--abominable6 ,,stirring4 ,never use any spoon but a wooden one to stir any thing on the fire or in a warm state4 ,,straining4 ,to strain1 is to pass a sauce or any thing else through a sieve1 a strainer1 or a piece of cloth1 in order to have it freed from particles of every kind4 ,broth is strained to make soup1 so as to remove the small pieces of bones that may be in it1 etc4 ,,sugar4 ,sugar plays a very important part in cooking4 ,it is added to cereals1 vegetables1 and fruit1 many of which would almost be unpalatable without it1 and which are rendered not only palatable but wholesome by its action4 ,it is the sugar of the carrot and that of the onion1 or of the garlic1 that gives such a peculiar and delicious flavor to gravies and sauces1 to beef a la mode1 fricandeau1 etc4 ,pulverized4--,when pulverized or powdered sugar can be had pure1 it saves the trouble to do it2 but often there are foreign matters in it and therefore it is better to make it2 you know then what you have4 ,break loaf sugar into small lumps1 pound it and sift it4 ,with a fine sieve1 you can make it as fine as you please4 ,it was not used in ,europe until about the middle of the seventeenth century4 ,for the cooking of sugar1 see ,preserves4 ,,tarragon4 ,the ,french name of tarragon is estragon4 ,it is excellent in vinegar and in many fish sauces4 ,it is aromatic1 sudorific1 and stomachic1 and grows very well in this country4 ,it grows at least twice as large here as in ,europe4 ,,tin ,,tubes4 ,these tubes are put in the pastry-bag1 at the smaller end of it1 to make meringues1 ladies' fingers1 etc42 they are of tin1 and can be made by any tinsmith4 ,they have the shape of a trapezoid or frustum4 ,two are enough for any purpose4 ,no4 #a4 ,one inch and a half long2 one inch and three-eighths in diameter at one end1 and nine-sixteenths of an inch at the other end4 ,no4 #b4 ,one inch and a half long2 one inch and a half in diameter at one end1 and six-eighths of an inch at the other4 ,,truffles4 ,truffles are found in ,europe and ,africa1 where they were first discovered4 ,the truffle is neither an animal nor a vegetable1 although it has been classed among the fungi1 which has root1 and the truffle has neither root nor stem4 ,the truffle is used for stuffing and flavoring only otherwise it is not of much value4 ,on account of their scarcity1 and the difficulty in finding them1 they are rather costly4 ,we think truffles may be compared to lace--both are dear1 and neither has an intrinsic value4 ,,vanilla4 ,is a native of ,america1 extensively used for seasoning creams1 pastry1 etc41 to which it gives a delicious flavor4 ,although a native of ,america1 all the extracts of vanilla1 as well as others1 were formerly imported2 but within a few years ,americans have found out that they are able to distil also1 and ,burnett's ,extract of ,vanilla is better known to-day all over the country than any other4 ,,vegetable ,,spoons4 ,vegetable spoons are used to cut potatoes1 carrots1 and turnips2 there are different shapes1 round1 oval1 carrot-shape1 plain1 and scalloped4 ,we give here only two1 being sufficient to explain their use4 ,the first 7a7 is of an oval shape1 and makes the cut c2 the second 7b7 is round1 and makes the cut d4 ,illustration ,when the vegetable is peeled1 place the spoon on it1 the convex side up2 holding the vegetable in your left hand1 press on the spoon with your left thumb1 and in order to cause it to cut the vegetable while turning it with the right hand1 first half way or rather when the half of it is inside of the vegetable1 stop1 turn it the other way1 causing it to cut the vegetable also1 then raise it up without turning at all and you have in the spoon a piece of vegetable of the shape of the spoon1 and as seen in the cuts4 ,,water4 ,rain-water is for cooking purposes1 as for other purposes1 the best1 but is seldom used1 especially in large cities1 where it is difficult to procure it4 ,another difficulty is1 when procured it soon gets foul4 ,the next best is river-water1 or water from lakes4 ,by boiling1 water evaporates its gases and alkali1 and is inferior afterward for cooking purposes1 especially for boiling vegetables2 therefore1 we earnestly recommend to use the water at the first boiling4 ,when foul water has to be used for want of other1 if no filter1 charcoal1 sand1 or paper can be had to filter it1 it will improve by boiling it and then exposing it to the air for some time4 ,,wines4 ,native wines1 when pure1 are just as good as any other for cooking purposes4 ,it is wrong and a great mistake to underrate native wines2 they have a little more acerbity than foreign wines1 but are not inferior4 ,it cannot be otherwise1 being grown in a virgin soil1 or nearly so4 ,the richer the soil or the younger the vineyard1 the more acid the wine4 ,cold nights during the ripening of the fruit make the wine more acid1 not ripening so perfectly4 ,wine is a healthy drink1 and many invalids would recover much quicker by a judicious use of it4 ,different wines are used in cooking1 and we give the names of the best ones in the different receipts4 ,a little vinegar may be used as a substitute for wine1 but it is very inferior1 and in many dishes it cannot be used at all4 ,a few dollars spent during the year in wine for cooking purposes1 makes much better and more wholesome dishes4 ,white wine contains little tannin2 it retains nitrogenous matters1 and is free from essential oils2 hence the superior flavor and quality of brandy made with white wines4 ,it is more aperient and less nutritive than red wine4 ,essential oils pass in red wine while it is fermenting4 ,wine and sugar with certain fruits are excellent1 and are known to neutralize the crudity of the fruit1 such as straw-berries1 pears1 peaches1 currants1 etc4 ,,motto4 ,the motto of the ,new ,york ,cooking ,academy is-- ,since we must eat to live1 let us prepare our food in such a manner1 that our physical1 intellectual1 and moral capacities may be extended as far as is designed by our ,,creator4 ,,divers ,,receipts4 ,,almonds4 ,two kinds are used in cooking1 the sweet and the bitter4 ,they are shelled first1 then by pouring boiling water on them and leaving them in it for two or three minutes1 they are easily skinned4 ,they are sometimes used as soon as skinned1 and sometimes dried after being skinned and just before using4 ,when wanted dried1 place them in a pan in a slow oven with the door open1 and turn them occasionally4 ,,lemonade ,,or ,,orangeade4 ,put two ounces of loaf sugar in a quart of water1 also the rind of an orange or one of lemon4 ,half an hour after strain the whole1 and press into it the juice of the orange1 and a few drops of lemon-juice4 ,if found too strong1 add water and sugar4 ,it is a very good drink in summer1 or for evening parties4 ,a little currant jelly may be added to make a variety4 ,,lemonade ,,with ,,barley4 ,to the above lemonade or orangeade you add1 instead of water and sugar1 some barley-water and sugar2 it is very good and very refreshing4 ,barley-water is made by soaking in lukewarm water a pint of barley1 drain it two or three minutes after2 put the barley in a crockery pan1 cover it with cold water 7about three quarts71 set it on the fire1 and boil till the barley is perfectly cooked2 skim off the scum during the cooking1 drain1 let cool1 and use the water4 ,,barley ,,sugar ,,for ,,children4 ,soak a quart of barley in lukewarm water for two or three minutes1 and drain4 ,put the barley in a crockery stewpan1 with four or five quarts of water1 and set it on a good fire1 boil till the barley is overdone1 and then take from the fire1 mash it as well as possible and strain1 throwing away what there is in the strainer1 and if the remainder does not make a kind of jelly when cool1 the barley has not been boiled enough4 ,mix that jelly with sugar and fry it2 it is better than any other candy1 barley being refreshing1 and the principal substance of it4 ,,bavaroise ,,with ,,chocolate4 ,put in a tin pan a pint of milk1 with one ounce of chocolate1 and two of sugar2 set it over the fire1 but do not allow it to boil2 stir well with a wooden spoon during the process1 and when the whole is well mixed1 serve warm in cups4 ,it is an excellent and wholesome drink in the evening4 ,the same with ,coffee or ,tea4--,proceed as above in every particular1 except that you put in the pan a small cup of coffee or tea instead of chocolate1 and a little more sugar4 ,,bichof4 ,put in a crockery tureen two bottles of white wine1 with an orange and a lemon1 both cut in slices2 cover1 and place it in a warm place for about ten hours2 then strain into a vessel1 and mix well with the liquor about a pound of loaf sugar1 and a little grated cinnamon4 ,it may be served warm or cold4 ,another way4--,melt a pound of loaf sugar in half a pint of cold water1 and then mix with it two bottles of white wine1 a pinch of grated cinnamon1 the juice of an orange1 and that of a lemon1 and use4 ,it takes only a few minutes to make it4 ,if found too strong1 add water and sugar4 ,,to ,,preserve ,,birds4 ,broil or roast1 according to our directions1 chickens1 ducks1 geese1 turkeys1 partridges1 pheasants1 prairie hens1 quails1 etc42 then carve them2 take the bones out of the pieces1 place them in a crockery pot1 which you fill with melted butter or lard1 and cover well when cold4 ,place the pot in a cool and dry place1 and they will keep for months4 ,when you wish to eat them1 take out the quantity you want1 and place it in a frying-pan1 with the butter or lard that is around2 fry till warm1 and serve4 ,,bread-,,crumbs4 ,put slices of stale bread in a slow oven till they are perfectly dried up4 ,break them in pieces and reduce them to coarse powder with a rolling pin2 sift them1 and they are ready for use4 ,bread-crumbs are better than cracker-crumbs2 the latter1 when reduced to powder1 are too floury1 and besides1 there is always stale bread enough in a kitchen to make crumbs4 ,the above crumbs are rather brown4 ,white crumbs4--,cut in rather large dice the soft part of stale bread1 put the pieces in a new and coarse towel1 rub between the hands so as to reduce the pieces of bread to crumbs2 pass through a colander or through a sieve1 according to need1 coarse or fine1 and use4 ,,burnt ,,sugar4 ,take an old tin ladle and place it over a sharp fire1 with two ounces of loaf sugar in it2 stir with a stick or skewer till it is thoroughly black and burnt4 ,then add1 little by little1 about one gill of water2 stir a little1 boil about four minutes1 but not fast1 lest it should boil over the ladle2 strain1 and it is made4 ,as soon as cold1 bottle it and use when wanted4 ,it keeps any length of time4 ,it is used to color broth1 sauces1 gravies1 etc4 ,it is called caramel in ,french4 ,,coffee4 ,it is simple to make coffee4 ,of course1 when properly made1 with good berries1 the liquor is good4 ,when good roasted coffee can be bought1 it saves the trouble of roasting it1 and is1 or rather ought to be1 cheaper than it can be done in a family4 ,if coffee is roasted a long time before being used it loses much of its aroma1 therefore a family ought not to roast more than it can use in about a week1 while twenty or twenty-five pounds can be roasted at one time and by one person4 ,three or four different kinds1 roasted separately1 and properly mixed1 make better coffee than one kind alone4 ,a good proportion is3 to one pound of ,java add about four ounces of ,mocha1 and four ounces of one or two other kinds4 ,good coffee1 as well as tea1 is said to possess exhilarating properties4 ,its use was not known in ,europe before #afej4 ,neither was the use of sugar1 tobacco1 and brandy4 ,good coffee cannot be made but by leaching4 ,the easiest utensil is what is called a filter1 or coffee-pot1 or biggin1 according to locality1 with a top to diffuse the water4 ,illustration ,the coffee-pot called the ,french balance makes the best-flavored coffee1 but it is an expensive one4 ,illustration ,there are several good filters1 but the great majority or the people find them too complicated for daily use4 ,the bottom of the filter should be of silvered brass-gauze instead of perforated tin1 as it is generally4 ,gauze-holes being much smaller than those of perforated tin1 the coffee can be ground much finer1 and therefore1 all the strength and aroma can be had2 while if ground coarse1 it is utterly impossible4 ,good coffee cannot be made in a utensil often but wrongly called a coffee-pot1 which is nothing but a pot1 and something like a tea-pot4 ,with such a utensil1 the grounds must be boiled2 and as no liquor can be boiled without allowing the steam to escape 7the steam made by boiling coffee being its aroma71 therefore the best part of the coffee is evaporated before it is served4 ,never grind your coffee until ready to make it4 ,no matter how air-tight you keep it1 the aroma evaporates or is absorbed4 ,coffee can be ground and made as soon as cool2 but it is better to let it stand for about twenty-four hours after being roasted4 ,if kept as air-tight as possible in a tin-box1 it will keep very well for about a week4 ,never buy ground coffee except when you cannot help it4 ,by taking a pinch of ground coffee and rolling it between wetted fingers1 it will remain in grains1 if pure2 and will form in a ball if foreign matters are mixed with it4 ,,to ,,roast4 ,in roasting1 good coffee swells about thirty-three per cent41 and loses about sixteen per cent4 in weight4 ,roast once a week or oftener4 ,put coffee in the apparatus 7cylinder1 or drum1 or roaster71 the quantity to be according to the size of the roaster1 or according to how much is needed4 ,have a rather slow fire at first2 when the coffee has swollen1 augment the fire1 turning1 shaking1 tossing the roaster1 sometimes fast1 sometimes slowly1 and take from the fire a little before it is roasted enough2 the roasting will be finished before the coffee gets cold and before taking it from the roaster1 which you continue turning and shaking as if it were yet on the fire4 ,a charcoal fire is the handiest1 and more easily regulated4 ,it is well roasted when it evaporates a pleasing odor and when of a brownish color4 ,then take it from the roaster1 spread it on a matting or on a piece of cloth1 and put it in a tin-box as soon as cold4 ,it is exceedingly difficult1 if not utterly impossible1 to roast coffee properly by machinery1 and for two reasons3 in the first place1 there is too much of it in the cylinder to roast evenly1 some berries are burned1 others not roasted enough2 the other is1 that being turned by machinery1 the cylinder is turned regularly and is neither shaken nor tossed2 and even if there were not too much coffee in it1 some berries would be much more roasted than others4 ,,to ,,make4 ,set a kettle of cold water on the fire4 ,place the ground coffee in the filter1 and as soon as the water begins to boil1 pour just enough of it over the coffee to wet it4 ,put the kettle back on the fire1 and again1 at the first boiling1 pour it over the coffee rather slowly1 and till you have poured enough water to furnish the quantity of coffee required4 ,if the water does not pass through fast enough1 just stop pouring for a few seconds1 that is1 long enough to put the kettle back on the fire and start the boiling again4 ,as soon as the water has passed through1 the coffee is made4 ,the quantity of coffee must be according to the strength you wish it1 and the quantity wanted1 or according to age and constitution4 ,four teaspoonfuls make a quart of very good coffee for breakfast4 ,it would be rather strong for children1 but can be diluted to a proper state with milk4 ,no matter what quantity of coffee is put in the filter1 the liquor must be clear2 the more is used1 the blacker the substance is1 but it must never be muddy4 ,if muddy at all1 be sure you have not used good coffee4 ,one pound of good coffee to a quart of water1 should make black but clear coffee4 ,,cafe ,,au ,,lait4 ,this is coffee and milk for breakfast4 ,the milk is set on the fire in a tin saucepan1 and taken off when it rises2 then mixed with the coffee1 either in the cup or any kind of vessel4 ,the proportions are pint for pint4 ,,cafe ,,noir4 ,cafe noir is the name given to the coffee taken after dinner4 ,it is generally made rather strong4 ,gentlemen sometimes put liquor in it--a glass of brandy1 or rum1 or kirschwasser2 and ladies1 a little cold milk4 ,taken fifteen or twenty minutes after dinner1 it helps digestion4 ,it excites the faculties of the mind1 and gives what physiologists call agreeable sensations4 ,coffee is nutritious1 and to a certain extent prevents waste of the system4 ,,chocolate4 ,the quantity of chocolate for a certain quantity of milk is according to taste4 ,two ounces of chocolate make a good cup of it1 and rather thick4 ,break the chocolate in pieces1 put it in a tin saucepan with a tablespoonful of water to an ounce of chocolate1 and set it on a rather slow fire4 ,stir now and then till thoroughly melted4 ,while the chocolate is melting1 set the quantity of milk desired in another tin saucepan on the fire1 and as soon as it rises and when the chocolate is melted1 as directed above1 turn the milk into the chocolate1 little by little1 beating well at the same time with an egg-beater4 ,keep beating and boiling after being mixed1 for three or four minutes2 take off and serve4 ,if both chocolate and milk are good1 it will be frothy2 and no better or more nutritious drink can be had4 ,,choca4 ,choca is nothing more nor less than one cup of coffee and milk mixed with a cup of chocolate1 and for breakfast4 ,,cocoa4 ,put in a tea or coffee cup one or two tablespoonfuls of ground cocoa1 pour boiling water or boiling milk on it1 little by little1 stirring with a spoon the while2 sweeten it to taste4 ,a few drops of essence of vanilla may be added1 according to taste4 ,,essence ,,of ,,spinach1 ,,or ,,green ,,essence4 ,put two handfuls of very green and fresh spinach in a mortar and pound it well4 ,then put it in a saucepan1 set on a rather slow fire1 and when on the point of boiling take it off1 pass it through a sieve and use4 ,it may be kept for some time with a little sugar4 ,,essence ,,of ,,beef4 ,the essence of beef of commerce is well known4 ,to make essence of beef used in cooking and called glace in ,french1 set three or four quarts of broth on a slow fire1 in a saucepan and reduce it to jelly4 ,keep it simmering all the time2 it may take twenty hours to reduce4 ,when properly reduced1 it is of a very dark-brown color and has a very pleasant odor4 ,when cold1 it must be rather hard4 ,when essence of beef tastes like glue and has an unpleasant odor1 it is not made properly1 or with good beef4 ,if properly made1 it will keep any length of time4 ,it is used to thicken sauces1 to decorate boned birds1 etc42 when in a hurry1 it may be used to make soup1 but1 like every thing preserved1 is of course inferior to fresh broth4 ,,icing4 ,put about three tablespoonfuls of pulverized sugar in a bowl with the white of a small egg2 and then mix and work well for at least five minutes with a piece of wood4 ,when done it is perfectly white and rather thick4 ,make a kind of funnel with thick1 white paper2 put the mixture in it1 and by squeezing it out1 you make decorations according to fancy1 on cakes1 charlotte russe1 etc4 ,you make the decorations of the size you please1 by cutting the smaller end of the paper-funnel of the size you wish4 ,the mixture may also be spread on cakes with a knife1 according to what kind of decoration is desired4 ,a charlotte russe may be decorated in the same way1 with the same cream as that used to fill it4 ,,meat ,,jellies4 ,put in a saucepan two ounces of gelatine with three eggs and shells1 a tablespoonful of salt1 the rind of half a lemon1 a liquor-glass of rum or brandy1 or a wine-glass of sherry1 port1 or madeira wine2 mix well the whole4 ,add one quart of broth1 twelve pepper-corns2 beat the whole well with an egg-beater and set on a good fire2 stir gently till it comes to a boil2 then move it on a rather slow fire2 boil slowly for about eight minutes and turn into the jelly-bag4 ,have two bowls at hand to be used alternately2 have one under the bag before turning the jelly into it2 and when it has passed through the bag once1 turn it into the bag again1 putting the other bowl under2 repeat this three or four times1 and it will be perfectly clear4 ,just before turning into the bag the first time1 a few drops of burnt sugar are added to give the jelly an amber color4 ,use the jelly immediately if wanted in liquid form1 as to fill a meat-pie1 etc41 or put it on ice to congeal4 ,boned-turkey ,jelly4--,as soon as the water in which you have boiled a boned turkey is cold1 skim off the fat and strain it4 ,then proceed exactly as for meat jelly1 except that you take one quart of the above instead of one quart of beef broth4 ,boned-chicken ,jelly4--,prepare the water in which the boned chicken has been cooked1 the same as above2 take a quart of it and proceed as for meat jelly for the rest4 ,for jelly to decorate any boned bird1 the water in which it has been cooked may be used1 as described above4 ,calves'-feet ,jelly4--,scald well four calves' feet1 and split each in two lengthwise4 ,put them in a saucepan with about three pints of water1 two onions1 two cloves1 two cloves of garlic1 six sprigs of parsley1 one of thyme1 a stalk of celery if handy1 salt1 and half a dozen pepper-corns4 ,set on the fire1 boil gently till well cooked4 ,serve the feet with a poulette or vinaigrette4 ,strain the liquor2 put in it two eggs with their shells1 salt1 rum or wine1 as in meat jelly2 beat the whole well with an egg-beater2 set on a good fire1 and finish like meat jelly4 ,calf's-head ,jelly4--,proceed as for the above in every particular1 except that you use four eggs1 having about twice as much liquor1 therefore making twice as much jelly4 ,a little gelatine may be added1 if not found firm enough4 ,,meat ,,gravy4 ,when you are short of gravy1 cut a little piece of veal1 say half a pound of the breast or neck piece1 or trimmings of veal-cutlets2 set on the fire with about an ounce of butter1 and half of a rather small carrot cut in slices2 stir1 and when the meat is turning rather brown1 add two or three onions in slices also2 stir again till the onions are nearly fried2 when covered with broth or water1 add salt1 a dozen whole peppers1 a bay-leaf1 and two stalks of thyme2 boil gently for two or three hours1 and strain4 ,if it is boiling away1 add water to fill up4 ,trimmings of mutton1 lamb1 beef1 chicken1 or turkey1 may be added to the veal4 ,in case of hurry1 it may be done quickly and by boiling rather fast1 but it is not as good1 and there is less of it with the same quantity of meat4 ,for a grand dinner1 the gravy may be made one or two and even three days in advance2 then simmer it for five or six hours4 ,,melons4 ,musk-melons are always served as a hors-d'oeuvre1 but must be eaten immediately after soup1 or the first thing of all if no soup is served4 ,it is a great mistake to serve melons as a dessert4 ,water-melons1 though eaten abundantly1 are considered very unwholesome by the great majority of doctors1 chemists1 and physiologists4 ,musk-melons are served in slices with sugar1 or with salt and pepper1 according to taste4 ,,meuniere4 ,mix well together in a cup one teaspoonful of flour with a tablespoonful of cold water4 ,it is used to thicken sauces and different dishes4 ,,mint4 ,put four sprigs of mint into a quart of brandy1 cork well1 or cover air-tight if in a pot1 and leave thus forty-eight hours2 then strain through a cloth4 ,put half a pound of loaf sugar in a stewpan with a pint of water1 set it on the fire1 and1 at the first boiling1 pour it into the quart of brandy2 cover with a cloth1 let it cool1 and again strain the whole through a fine cloth4 ,bottle and cork carefully1 and use when wanted4 ,a small liquor-glass of it is very good for stomach-ache2 it is also useful after having eaten any thing difficult of digestion4 ,,panade4 ,break in pieces the soft part of a small stale loaf of bread2 put it in a tin saucepan1 cover it with cold water1 and leave thus about an hour2 then mash it well1 set it on the fire1 add salt1 butter1 and sugar1 to taste2 simmer about an hour1 then add again two yolks of eggs beaten with two tablespoonfuls of cream or milk2 mix the whole well together1 and serve4 ,it makes an excellent food for infants4 ,,pap4 ,put an ounce of butter in a tin saucepan1 set it on the fire1 and when melted1 turn into it two tablespoonfuls of flour1 thoroughly mixed with half a pint of milk2 stir with a wooden spoon1 boil gently for about twelve minutes1 stirring the while2 take off1 turn into a bowl1 add salt and sugar to taste1 and use4 ,if wanted richer1 an egg may be mixed with the flour and milk1 or a yolk of egg may be added as soon as taken from the fire4 ,,raisins4 ,when the stems of raisins or of currants are removed1 put them in a bowl1 dust them well with flour1 move them round a little1 then turn them into a sieve and shake them well4 ,this process will remove the sand as well as washing them1 and will not take away the sweetness4 ,,sandwiches4 ,these are too well known to require any direction4 ,,sausage-,,meat4 ,butchers generally1 with an eye to economy1 make sausage-meat of bad or tainted pork4 ,we recommend our readers1 as far as possible1 never to buy sausage-meat ready made1 but to make it themselves1 or have it made according to their directions4 ,a chopping-machine costs very little1 and saves a great deal of work1 besides chopping much better than can be done by hand4 ,the proportions are3 one pound of lean pork and one pound of lean veal1 chopped very fine1 well mixed1 and both very fresh4 ,season with salt1 pepper1 nutmeg and clove grated1 and with cinnamon1 if liked4 ,a yolk of egg may be added to a pound of meat4 ,it may also be made with one pound of veal and half a pound or less of pork1 or with veal only or pork only1 according to taste4 ,,souse4 ,put three ounces of butter in a saucepan1 and set it on the fire2 when melted1 add two carrots and two onions sliced1 stir now and then till they begin to turn brown2 then add about three pints of warm water1 half a pint of vinegar1 one clove of garlic1 four sprigs of parsley1 one of thyme1 a clove1 a bay-leaf1 six pepper-corns1 a little grated nutmeg1 and salt4 ,simmer about an hour1 strain1 and it is ready for use4 ,another4--,put two quarts of vinegar and about ten quarts of water in a stone or crockery vessel1 with four cloves of garlic1 a handful of parsley1 six cloves1 four stalks of thyme1 four bay-leaves1 half a nutmeg grated1 three or four carrots1 and three or four onions sliced1 a little salt1 and two dozen pepper-corns4 ,stir and mix the whole well1 and it is ready for use4 ,pieces of mutton1 beef1 pork1 venison1 and bear-meat1 may be soaked in one of the above preparations from four to six days before cooking them4 ,a piece of tough meat will be more tender and juicy after being soaked4 ,more or less may be made1 according to the size of the piece of meat4 ,,tea4 ,there are many ways of making tea2 we might say that every one makes it in his own way2 but1 after many experiments and much information1 we have found the following to be the best3 ,warm the teapot either by pouring boiling water in it and emptying it1 or by placing it on a corner of the range4 ,then put good tea in it 7the quantity to be according to the strength and also to the quantity you want71 and pour boiling water on the leaves1 just enough to wet them2 leave thus about one minute1 then pour on all the water you want4 ,let it steep no longer than about six minutes1 and not less than four minutes1 before drawing it4 ,if allowed to steep longer than six minutes1 all the astringency of the tea is extracted1 and it acts and has a bad effect on the nervous system1 besides losing most of its aroma4 ,chemists and physiologists generally recommend black tea1 as not affecting the nervous system as much as green tea4 ,tea being naturally very astringent1 should never be served at breakfast4 ,taken after dinner1 instead of cafe noir1 it has the same effect1 and brandy may be mixed with it as in coffee4 ,tea is excellent in damp climates and marshy countries1 but it must be taken after a substantial meal4 ,drinking warm tea while eating causes the food to pass through the system without nourishing it1 or supplying its waste4 ,,toast4 ,cut several slices of bread of even size1 and spread some anchovy-butter on them2 cut anchovies in small strips1 lengthwise1 lay them on the bread also1 and then spread over some hard-boiled egg chopped fine1 and on it some parsley also chopped fine1 finish with capers here and there4 ,place the toast or slices of bread on a dish1 tastefully arranged all around1 a few sprigs of parsley in the middle1 and you have a fine hors-d'oeuvre4 ,sardines1 ,dutch herrings1 or red herrings may be used the same as anchovies4 ,,welsh ,,rarebit4 ,this dish is not generally understood4 ,it is thought by many to be ,welsh rabbit1 that is1 a rabbit prepared ,welsh fashion4 ,it is not a rabbit1 but ,welsh cheese 7a certain kind only1 and prepared for that purpose71 melted to a certain degree1 and then spread on toast of ,welsh bread4 ,grate some ,gloucester or ,gruyere cheese and pepper it with ,cayenne pepper4 ,fry some slices of bread with a little butter1 but on one side only1 until perfectly yellow1 then spread a thick coat of grated cheese on the fried side of the bread1 place the slices in a baking-pan1 put them in a pretty warm oven1 take off when it begins to melt1 and serve warm4 ,then you have as good a ,welsh rarebit as can be made here4 ,the receipt was given to us by an ,english lady4 ,,potages ,,or ,,soups4 ,potage is the modern word for soup1 and is used in bills of fare everywhere4 ,three kinds of liquor are used to make potages3 broth1 milk1 and water4 ,besides the liquor1 meat1 fish1 and vegetables are used4 ,the richest potages are made with consomme and some other compounds2 such as bread1 ,italian pastes1 vegetables1 etc4 ,consomme means rich broth2 literally1 it means consumed1 perfect1 that is1 properly reduced and partly consumed1 as it is the case in making it4 ,consomme is broth reduced to a certain point1 according to want or taste4 ,broth4--,broth is to good cooking what wheat is to bread4 ,dishes 7with some exceptions7 prepared without broth are1 to those prepared with it1 what rye or corn bread is to wheat bread4 ,broth1 and especially consomme1 are to old age what milk is to the infant4 ,broth is called bouillon in ,france1 and stock in ,england4 ,the word pot-au-feu means the meat1 vegetables1 seasonings1 spices1 and the pot or soup-kettle itself1 i4 e41 every thing made use of in making broth4 ,the popular meaning of the term in ,france is1 the soup and the beef and vegetables served as releves2 and1 with the working-classes1 the only thing 7with bread1 wine1 and fruit7 composing the family dinner4 ,the ,french army is fed on this pot-au-feu three hundred and sixty days in the year4 ,it is a great mistake to believe that bones or veal make good broth2 by boiling or simmering bones or veal1 you obtain a gelatinous liquid1 but not a rich broth with a pleasant flavor4 ,when properly made1 broth is clear4 ,if milky1 it has been made with bones1 veal1 or very inferior beef4 ,broth for ,potages4--,take three pounds of good1 lean1 fresh beef1 from any part except the shin4 ,there must not be more than two ounces of bone to a pound of meat1 and the less bone the better4 ,place the meat in a soup-kettle or iron saucepan lined with tin1 with three quarts of cold water and salt1 and set it on a good fire4 ,after about thirty minutes1 the scum or albumen of the meat will gather on the surface1 and the water will commence boiling4 ,now place the kettle on a more moderate fire1 add one gill of cold water1 and begin to skim off the scum1 which will take only a few minutes4 ,then add one middle-sized carrot1 half as much turnip1 one middle-sized leek1 a stalk of celery1 one of parsley1 a bay-leaf1 one onion with two cloves stuck in it1 and two cloves of garlic4 ,keep the kettle between simmering and boiling heat for about five hours4 ,dish the meat with carrot1 turnip1 and leek around it1 and serve it as a releve4 ,strain the broth1 and it is ready for use4 ,if the broth is required to be richer1 use more beef and less water1 but follow the same process2 if weaker1 use more water and less beef1 but still follow the same process4 ,broth for ,sauces and ,gravies4--,place in a soup-kettle or saucepan fresh bones of beef1 mutton1 lamb1 veal1 or poultry--of either1 or of all2 also1 bones of the same meats from roasted pieces2 also trimmings of the same1 if very fresh1 with one quart of cold water to every pound of bones or meat2 skim it like the preceding1 add the same vegetables and seasonings1 and simmer for at least six hours4 ,then skim off very carefully all the fat on the surface1 pass the remainder through a strainer or a sieve1 and it is ready for use4 ,this broth is certainly very inferior to the preceding one1 but it is excellent for sauces and gravies1 and is very cheaply made4 ,it may be used for potages also2 but1 as we have said above1 it is very gelatinous1 and cannot be compared with the highly nutritious beef-broth4 ,broth that is not to be used immediately must be cooled quickly after being strained1 as the quicker it is cooled the longer it keeps4 ,as soon as cold1 put it in a stone jar or crockery vessel1 and place it in a cool1 dry1 and dark place4 ,it will keep three or four days in winter1 but only one day in summer4 ,if the weather is stormy1 it will not keep even for twelve hours2 it turns sour very quickly4 ,i do not put parsnips or thyme in broth1 the taste of these two vegetables being too strong4 ,they really neutralize the fine aroma of broth4 ,even in this nineteenth century there are some pretty good cooks who put thyme and parsnip in broth1 but they do it by routine4 ,routine is in every thing the greatest enemy of progress4 ,ancient cookery used to put in the pot 7old name for soup-kettle7 a burnt onion to give an amber color to the broth4 ,this has exactly the same effect as thyme and parsnip1 giving it a bad taste1 and neutralizing the flavor given to the broth by the osmazome of the meat4 ,when broth of an amber color is desired1 add to it a few drops of burnt sugar1 the receipt for making which will be found elsewhere4 ,consomme4--,there are two ways of making consomme3 one is to make broth as above1 with the exception that five pounds of lean beef1 instead of three1 are used with three quarts of water1 and simmered from seven to eight hours1 instead of five1 the vegetables and seasonings being the same2 or by boiling broth gently till properly reduced4 ,the other way is to roast1 until they are only one-third done1 one1 two1 or three fowls1 not under two years old2 then place them in a soup-kettle with three pounds of lean beef2 wet with three quarts of cold water2 skim off as above directed2 add the same vegetables and seasonings as for broth for potages4 ,after having simmered the whole for three hours1 the fowl or fowls must be taken out of the kettle1 and the rest is to be simmered for about three hours longer4 ,the meat1 vegetables1 and seasonings are then taken from the kettle or saucepan2 the liquor is strained1 and that liquor is the best consomme that can be made2 or by boiling the same1 gently1 in three quarts of good broth1 you make consomme also4 ,the reason for directing to use one1 two1 or three fowls is1 that the more fowls used1 the better and richer the broth4 ,the fowls after having been thus used may be prepared in salad1 and make a very excellent dish4 ,one pound of beef is enough to make broth for a potage for three or four persons4 ,always use fresh meat2 meat with a venison taste or tainted would spoil if not entirely destroy the broth4 ,to clarify ,broth4--,if not as clear as wanted1 beat the white of an egg with a gill of cold broth1 and turn into the broth2 boil gently about ten minutes1 and strain through a cloth or towel4 ,any kind of potage made with broth may be made with consomme4 ,it may also be made with water1 adding butter4 ,with consomme it is richer1 and with water much inferior1 than with broth4 ,when a rump-piece is used to make broth1 it is better to bone it first1 and take it from the soup-kettle after three or four hours2 it is served as a releve1 or prepared as cold beef4 ,the broth is finished as directed2 the bones and vegetables being kept on the fire longer than the meat4 ,chicken and turkey broth are often called potage de sante 7potage of health74 ,chicken4--,roast or bake till turning yellow1 a chicken over two years old4 ,put it in a soup-kettle with three pints of water1 and set it on a rather slow fire2 skim off the scum1 add a middling-sized onion1 a leek1 a few stalks of chervil if handy1 a middling-sized head of lettuce1 and salt2 simmer about three hours4 ,take out the chicken and vegetables1 skim off the fat1 strain1 and use4 ,this broth is excellent for a weak stomach1 and is easy of digestion4 ,the chicken is served in salad4 ,turkey4--,procure a rather old turkey and roast or bake it till about one-third done2 put it in a soup-kettle with about a pint of water to a pound of meat1 and set it on a rather slow fire4 ,as soon as the scum comes on the surface1 skim it off carefully2 then add two onions1 two leeks1 two or three heads of lettuce1 a small handful of chervil if handy1 and salt4 ,simmer about five hours4 ,use the broth as chicken-broth above1 and serve the turkey in salad4 ,fish 7also called a la ,lucullus74--,slice three middling-sized onions and fry them with one ounce of butter till turning yellow2 add three or four pounds of fish 7bass1 pike1 trout1 salmon1 and the like71 any fish having a firm and compact flesh1 of one or several kinds2 add also two carrots1 two onions1 and one leek1 all sliced2 four stalks of parsley1 one of thyme1 one clove of garlic1 a bay-leaf1 one clove1 six pepper-corns1 salt2 cover the whole with cold water1 set on a good but not brisk fire1 boil gently for about two hours4 ,if the water is boiling away1 add some more2 then strain1 and use4 ,this broth may be used for bisque and fish sauces1 instead of beef-broth4 ,it may be made rich2 for instance1 instead of three pounds of fish1 use six1 seven1 eight pounds1 or more1 and seasonings in proportion4 ,louis ,,xv4 was on a visit to the monastery of ,saint ,denis one day during ,lent2 after having walked all over the grounds and gardens1 he was offered a cup of broth by the superior4 ,being a little fatigued1 he took the cup and drank the whole at one draught4 ,in going back to ,versailles1 one of his suite1 who did not like the monk-superior1 adroitly alluded to the cup of broth1 and managed to persuade the king that the monk had done it on purpose2 that is1 had made the king partake of meat-broth1 when it was forbidden by the ,church4 ,the next day the monk-superior was sent for and brought before the king4 ,on hearing the object of the summons1 he asked the king if the broth had indisposed him4 ,being answered in the negative1 he begged to be allowed to prepare the same broth before the king himself1 which he did1 and from that time till his death the king used to send several hundred pounds of fish during ,lent to the monks of ,saint-,denis4 ,frog4--,skin and put the hind-legs of two dozen of frogs in cold water for an hour2 drain and put them in a saucepan1 and set it on a slow fire2 stir now and then till they are turning yellow1 then take them off and chop the flesh rather fine2 put back in the pan with a carrot sliced1 a stalk of celery and one leek1 both chopped1 a little salt1 and cover the whole with water4 ,simmer for about two hours2 mash the whole through a colander1 add butter which you stir and mix in1 and it is ready for use4 ,this broth1 taken warm before retiring1 is excellent for persons having a cough or cold4 ,it is also excellent for consumptive persons1 and is only second to snail-broth4 ,another4--,take the hind-legs of fifty well-skinned green frogs1 put them in cold water and a little salt for half an hour--drain them2 then put them in a crockery kettle1 with a leek1 half a carrot1 two stalks of celery1 a middling-sized parsnip1 a turnip1 two onions1 one clove of garlic1 two ounces of fat bacon1 a little salt1 and white pepper2 cover the whole well with cold water1 set on the fire1 simmer gently about four hours2 strain1 pour on croutons1 and serve4 ,the hind-legs of the frogs are taken from the strainer1 placed on a dish1 and served at breakfast the next day1 with a white sauce1 or in fricassee1 as a chicken4 ,game4--,roast or bake1 till about one-third done1 two prairie-hens1 and put them in a soup-kettle with about one pound of lean beef1 salt1 and five pints of water4 ,set the kettle on a rather slow fire1 skim off the scum when it gathers on the surface1 and then add half a carrot1 two stalks of parsley1 one of celery1 one onion with a clove stuck in it1 a bay-leaf1 six pepper-corns1 and two cloves of garlic4 ,simmer about three hours1 and take the birds out of the kettle2 simmer then two hours longer2 strain1 and the broth is ready for use4 ,game-broth is warming and stimulating2 it may be taken alone1 or prepared with croutons1 rice1 vermicelli1 or other ,italian pastes1 the same as beef-broth4 ,the prairie-hens are served in salmis1 and the beef is served as boiled beef4 ,snail4--,clean and prepare twenty-five snails as directed4 ,put them in a saucepan1 with a carrot1 an onion1 and a head of lettuce1 all chopped1 a small handful of chervil1 a few leaves of sorrel1 and a little salt2 cover the whole with three pints of cold water4 ,boil slowly for about three hours1 strain the broth1 add a little butter to it1 and it is ready for use4 ,a tumblerful of this broth1 taken warm before retiring1 is certainly the best thing for a consumptive person4 ,it is also excellent for a cough4 ,just salt the snails to taste1 and eat them as they are1 warm or cold4 ,veal4--,procure two pounds of veal1 from the neck or breast piece4 ,put the meat in a soup-kettle with two quarts of cold water and a little salt2 set it on a good fire1 and skim off the scum as soon as it gathers on the surface4 ,when skimmed1 add a head of lettuce1 a leek 7and a few stalks of chervil if handy72 simmer for about three hours2 strain1 and use4 ,this broth1 as well as chicken and turkey broth1 is excellent for convalescent persons4 ,it may be made richer by putting a little more meat1 according to taste2 but generally the physician gives directions4 ,another4--,soak a calf's liver in cold water for two hours1 clean and wash it well2 put it in a soup-kettle with about three pints of cold water1 salt1 boil gently for an hour and a half1 and then add a handful of water-cresses2 simmer fifteen minutes longer1 strain and use4 ,another4--,proceed as above in every particular1 except that you use a handful of chervil instead of water-cresses4 ,another4--,use three or four leeks instead of water-cresses1 and proceed as above for every other particular4 ,the last three especially make a very refreshing drink1 and are a great relief in some cases of fever4 ,vegetable ,broth 7called also ,bouillon ,maigre74--,scrape1 clean1 and slice three carrots and three turnips1 peel three onions2 fry the whole with a little butter till it turns rather yellow2 and then add two plants of celery cut in pieces1 three or four leeks1 also cut in pieces2 stir and fry the whole for about six minutes4 ,when fried1 add also one clove of garlic1 salt1 pepper1 two cloves1 two stalks of parsley1 a little nutmeg grated2 cover with about three quarts of water4 ,keep on a rather slow fire1 skim off the scum carefully1 and then simmer for about three hours4 ,strain1 and use4 ,this liquor is called vegetable broth1 and is used instead of broth in time of ,lent by persons who do not want to use beef-broth4 ,another4--,proceed as above1 and with the same vegetables till they are fried4 ,then add salt1 pepper1 two cloves of garlic1 four stalks of parsley1 three cloves1 a little nutmeg grated1 two quarts of white beans previously soaked in cold water for twenty-four hours1 and five or six quarts of water4 ,skim it as above2 simmer for about four hours2 strain1 and use4 ,the beans1 carrots1 turnips1 and leeks may be mashed through a colander and served in puree4 ,another4--,proceed as above in every particular1 with the exception that instead of using beans1 you use peas1 lentils1 chestnuts1 or samp4 ,peas and lentils are soaked in water only for four or five hours4 ,chestnuts must be shelled4 ,some other vegetables may be added1 according to taste1 and also according to the nature of the vegetables4 ,another4--,clean and put in a bowl a head of lettuce1 a handful of sorrel1 same of chervil1 same of purslane1 and all chopped fine2 pour over nearly a quart of boiling water1 add two ounces of butter1 cover the bowl with a wet towel2 leave thus half an hour1 and strain4 ,when cold it makes a very refreshing drink1 and is taken morning and evening with salt1 to taste4 ,it may also be taken warm4 ,a la ,minute1 or made quickly4--,cut four ounces of fat salt pork in dice and set it on the fire in a saucepan2 stir1 and when it is turning rather brown add one onion chopped1 and half a middling-sized carrot1 sliced2 stir1 and when they are partly fried1 add also two pounds of lean beef cut in small dice2 stir and fry for five minutes4 ,then pour in it about three pints of boiling water1 salt1 boil gently about forty minutes4 ,strain1 and use4 ,the beef may be served with the broth1 or separately as an entree1 with a piquante1 ravigote1 or ,robert sauce4 ,bisque of ,lobster4--,boil one or several lobsters as directed1 and when cold split the tail in two1 lengthwise1 take the flesh out of the shell1 remove the black vein that is on the back1 take out the meat of the two large claws1 and keep the flesh of the claws and tail for the following day's breakfast4 ,for a bisque1 nothing is thrown away but the head1 stomach1 and black vein4 ,the head is the part immediately under the eyes2 the stomach is a small1 round pouch immediately behind the head2 and the vein runs from the stomach to the end of the tail4 ,put all the rest1 shell1 small claws1 all the matter found in the large shell 7green1 white1 or yellow71 in a mortar and pound well4 ,then put a tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan1 set it on the fire1 and when the butter is melted1 put what is in the mortar in1 stir with a wooden spoon for about ten minutes1 then add one pint of warm broth1 stir for about twenty minutes1 and strain4 ,put the liquor back on the fire with about four ounces of toasted bread1 boil five minutes1 and mash through a colander4 ,put the liquor back again on the fire1 add one quart of broth1 boil gently ten minutes1 and turn into the soup-dish4 ,while it is boiling1 chop fine the coral-piece of the lobster or lobsters1 knead it with a piece of butter of about the same bulk1 then rub both through a wire sieve2 put them in the soup-dish with croutons and about two or three ounces of the flesh of the lobster cut in very small dice4 ,turn the broth into the soup-dish also1 and as directed above1 and serve warm4 ,when there is no coral in the lobster or lobsters1 knead a hard-boiled yolk of egg with butter in its stead4 ,use one1 two1 three1 or more lobsters1 according to how much soup is wanted4 ,it is not costly1 because the flesh1 or most of it1 is kept to make a salad the next day1 for breakfast or lunch4 ,the salad might be served the same day at dinner1 but lobster is a rather heavy food1 and it is more prudent not to eat any late in the day4 ,bisque of ,lobster a la ,colbert4--,make a bisque as above1 and while it is on the fire1 poach as directed as many eggs as there will be persons at dinner2 put them in the soup-dish instead of croutons1 and serve as above4 ,of ,crabs4--,proceed as for a bisque of lobster in every particular1 except that you use hard-shell crabs instead of lobster4 ,the same a la ,colbert4--,add to the above as many poached eggs as you have guests4 ,of ,craw-fish 7,bisque d',ecrevisses74--,our readers who have been in ,europe will certainly remember the name of one of the best soups that can be made4 ,it is made of craw-fish the same as with lobster1 and is certainly more delicate than a bisque of lobster or of crabs4 7,see ,craw-fish for other particulars47 ,a bisque of craw-fish may also be served a la ,colbert the same as a bisque of lobster4 ,bouillabaisse4--,the real bouillabaisse is made in ,marseilles2 they make an imitation of it in ,bordeaux1 and in many other parts of ,france and the ,continent2 but1 like a ,welsh rarebit prepared out of ,wales1 it is very inferior to the real one4 ,however1 we will give the receipt to make it here1 and as good as possible with the fish that can be procured4 ,put a gill of sweet-oil in a tin saucepan and set it on a sharp fire2 when hot1 add two onions and two cloves of garlic sliced2 stir so as to partly fry them1 and then take from the fire4 ,put also in the pan three pounds of fish1 such as haddock1 halibut1 turbot1 white-fish--of all if possible1 but at least of two kinds2 also a dozen muscles1 just blanched and taken from the shell 7some put them whole1 properly cleaned74 ,the fish is cut in pieces about two inches long4 ,then add one gill of ,catawba or ,sauterne wine1 a bay-leaf1 two cloves1 two slices of lemon1 the juice of a tomato1 salt1 pepper1 a pinch of saffron1 cover with cold water1 and set the pan back on a brisk fire4 ,after about thirty minutes add a teaspoonful of chopped parsley2 boil ten minutes longer1 and it is done4 ,the pieces of fish are then placed on a dish and served4 ,put in a deep dish1 and to be served at the same time1 some slices of bread1 over which you turn the sauce through a strainer4 ,one slice of bread and one piece of fish is served to each person1 also some sauce4 ,it is put in two different dishes1 to avoid breaking the pieces of fish4 ,there are over a hundred ways of making a bouillabaisse2 the above is one of the best4 ,there are also about as many ways of spelling the same4 ,a bouillabaisse is served as a soup4 ,,potages4 ,a la ,colbert4--,scrape carrots and turnips and cut them in small dice or with a vegetable spoon2 add green peas and string-beans1 if handy1 the beans cut in pieces2 set them on the fire in a pan with cold water and salt2 boil gently till done1 and drain4 ,put them back on the fire1 covered with warm broth1 salt to taste1 boil gently about two or three minutes1 and turn into the soup-dish1 in which you have put as many poached eggs as there are or will be persons at table4 ,a poached egg with soup is served to every person4 ,proportions of broth and vegetables according to taste4 ,julienne4--,scrape two carrots and two turnips and cut them in pieces about an inch and a half long2 cut slices lengthwise about one-eighth of an inch thick1 then cut again across1 so as to make square strips4 ,put them in a saucepan with about two ounces of butter1 three tablespoonfuls of cabbage chopped fine1 and half a middling-sized onion1 also chopped2 set on the fire and stir till about half fried4 ,add broth to make it as you wish1 thin or thick2 boil gently till done2 salt to taste1 skim off the fat1 and serve4 ,it takes about two hours4 ,julienne with ,rice4--,boil two ounces of rice in water and a little salt1 till about three-quarters done2 drain and put in the julienne after having added the broth2 finish as above4 ,julienne with ,barley4--,boil barley till done2 add it to the julienne at the same time the broth is added1 and serve as the above4 ,julienne aux ,croutons4--,put some croutons in the soup-dish1 and when the julienne is done1 pour it over them1 and serve4 ,brunoise4--,put an ounce of butter in a saucepan on the fire1 and when melted1 add one carrot1 one turnip1 a little celery1 all cut in dice2 stir till they turn yellow1 then add about a quart of broth1 a middling-sized leek cut in pieces1 a few leaves of lettuce and of sorrel1 if handy1 and a pinch of sugar4 ,simmer about two hours2 skim off the fat2 add a few drops of burnt sugar to color4 ,have croutons in the soup-dish1 turn the potage over them1 and serve4 ,brunoise with ,rice4--,proceed as above1 except that you add from two to four ounces of boiled rice to the potage ten minutes before taking from the fire4 ,serve without croutons4 ,another4--,use boiled barley instead of boiled rice4 ,a la ,monaco4--,put some thin slices of stale bread in the soup-dish1 sprinkle pulverized sugar and orange-rind grated all over4 ,pour boiling milk over2 cover the dish for five minutes1 and serve4 ,a la ,regence4--,put about two dozen quenelles made with chicken into the soup-dish with half a pint of boiled green peas2 turn boiling consomme over1 and serve warm4 ,a la ,royale4--,make a custard with a dozen yolks of eggs1 about the same volume of good cream1 season with sugar1 salt1 and a little nutmeg2 cook1 and when perfectly cold1 cut it in slices and again cut in fancy shapes with paste-cutters or with a knife2 place it in the soup-dish1 pour boiling consomme gently over1 and serve warm4 ,potage ,printanier 7called also ,jardiniere and a la ,paysanne74--,it is a potage julienne1 to which is added the top or eatable part of six asparagus1 six turnip-rooted red radishes1 and two or three tablespoonfuls of green peas4 ,they are fried1 boiled1 and served with the other vegetables4 ,veloute4--,put yolks of eggs in the soup-dish and beat them a little with cold or lukewarm broth2 then pour boiling broth over them1 little by little1 stirring the while1 and serve warm4 ,it is made thin or thick1 according to taste4 ,with ,arrow-root4--,set broth in a saucepan on the fire1 and as soon as it boils1 sprinkle some arrow-root into it1 stirring the while with a wooden spoon2 boil gently for about half an hour1 stirring now and then the while1 and serve warm1 adding salt to taste4 ,milk or consomme may be used instead of broth4 ,if you use milk1 add a very little salt and sugar1 to taste4 ,the proportion of arrow-root to a certain quantity of broth is according to taste2 it can be made thick or thin4 ,with ,corn-starch4--,proceed as for arrow-root4 ,with ,bread4--,this is the simplest of all4 ,dry some slices of bread1 either stale or fresh1 in the oven1 place them in the soup-dish1 pour boiling broth over them1 cover the dish for two or three minutes1 and serve4 ,with ,fecula4--,proceed as for arrow-root4 ,being finer1 it does not require more than about twelve or fifteen minutes4 ,with ,barley4--,wash the barley in cold water1 then drop it in boiling broth1 little by little1 stirring the while2 when in1 keep simmering till perfectly done1 which you ascertain easily by tasting2 add then salt to taste1 a pinch of sugar1 and serve warm4 ,it must be stirred occasionally while on the fire4 ,with ,gruel 7,french ,gruau74--,it is made as with arrow-root4 ,with ,indian ,meal4--,proceed as with arrow-root4 ,with ,sago4--,sago must be boiled gently about an hour2 but for the rest1 proceed as with arrow-root in every particular4 ,with ,semoule4--,with semoule it is the same as with arrow-root1 except that it is boiled only about fifteen minutes4 ,with ,tapioca4--,tapioca is prepared like arrow-root1 but must be boiled about forty-five minutes4 ,all the above1 like arrow-root1 may be prepared with consomme1 or with milk1 as well as with broth4 ,with ,giblets4--,throw the giblets in boiling water and a little salt1 boil for ten minutes1 take off and drain4 ,drop them in broth1 boil gently till done1 and turn the whole into the soup dish1 in which you have some leeks1 boiled and cut in pieces4 ,serve warm4 ,some croutons may be added1 and chervil chopped fine1 just before turning into the soup-dish2 or they may be placed in the soup-dish before pouring in the broth4 ,with ,mackerel4--,clean1 prepare1 and cut in pieces about one inch and a half long1 a mackerel weighing about one pound and a half2 fry it with two ounces of butter till it turns rather brown1 then cover with nearly a quart of water2 add a few slices of carrot1 same of turnip1 a small onion1 two or three stalks of parsley1 salt1 pepper1 a clove of garlic1 and a stalk of celery if handy2 boil slowly for about an hour2 mash gently through a colander1 put what has passed through the colander back on the fire1 add a little butter1 give one more boil1 turn into the soup dish over croutons1 and serve4 ,with new ,carrots4--,take small1 young carrots1 clean and wash them1 then blanch them for about five minutes4 ,set them on the fire1 cover with broth or consomme2 boil gently till done1 and serve4 ,another4--,with carrots and peas4 ,proceed as above till the carrots are half done1 then add blanched green peas2 finish the cooking1 and serve4 ,another4--,make as the above1 but using one or two heads of cabbage-lettuce1 blanched for two minutes1 instead of green peas4 ,fancy ,potage4--,take twelve very small rolls2 cut off one end and remove all the soft part of it2 fill them with quenelles of chicken2 replace the piece cut off as well as possible2 place them in the soup-dish2 pour boiling consomme or good broth over them2 cover the dish for ten minutes1 and serve warm4 ,with ,vermicelli4--,drop the vermicelli in boiling water1 and in which you have put a little salt2 boil ten minutes1 drain1 drop again in cold water1 drain again and put it in boiling broth2 boil ten minutes2 add salt to taste1 and serve4 ,with ,macaroni4--,proceed as for vermicelli in every particular1 except that it takes twice as long to cook4 ,with ,macaroni and ,cheese4--,proceed as for the above1 and when done1 put grated cheese in the soup-dish1 turn the macaroni over it1 and serve4 ,with ,italian ,pastes4--,no matter of what shape are the pastes1 proceed as for vermicelli2 the only difference is in the time of cooking1 which depends on the size4 ,consomme may be used instead of broth4 ,if milk is used1 sugar must be added4 ,with ,macaroni a la ,corinne4--,set two quarts of cold water on the fire1 with an ounce of salt1 and two ounces of butter2 at the first boil1 drop into it four ounces of macaroni2 boil five minutes1 and drain4 ,immediately drop the macaroni in boiling consomme1 and boil gently till done4 ,drain it again and place a layer of it in the soup-dish1 over the macaroni2 place a thin layer of ,parmesan cheese grated2 then a layer of macedoine of vegetables2 then again1 a layer of macaroni1 one of cheese1 etc42 pour consomme to taste on the whole1 and serve warm4 ,with ,macaroni a la ,medici 7also called a la ,napolitaine74--,proceed as for macaroni a la ,corinne in every particular1 with the exception that you put also in the soup-dish a layer of quenelles of chicken over that of macedoine of vegetables1 and serve in the same way4 ,the quenelles are boiled till done1 in broth in which you put a few sprigs of mignonette4 ,another4--,add to the above about a gill of thick tomato-sauce1 just before pouring the consomme over the macaroni1 etc4 ,macaroni a la ,romulus4--,prepare eight ounces of macaroni as directed for macaroni a la ,corinne2 place a layer of it in the soup-dish2 then over it a layer of quenelles of chicken2 over the quenelles1 a thin layer of grated ,parmesan cheese2 then a layer of thin slices of salt beef tongue1 boiled and skimmed2 over the latter a layer of sweetbreads boiled in broth and cut in thin slices also2 and lastly a layer of thin slices of boiled flounders4 ,several layers of each of the above may be placed in the soup dish1 in the same order2 then boiling consomme is poured over the whole2 the dish is covered1 put in a warm place for ten minutes1 and served4 ,although this dish is a regular potage1 and served as such1 still many ,italians make a meal of it4 ,with ,macaroni a ,la ,rossini4--,proceed as for macaroni a la ,corinne above1 with two exceptions3 first1 that you add a layer of quenelles of partridge2 and second1 that you use consomme of partridge4 ,with ,macaroni a la ,st4 ,pierre4--,proceed also as for potage macaroni a la ,corinne as far as placing a layer of macaroni in the soup-dish2 then put over it a layer of boiled soft roe of fish2 over which put a thin layer of grated ,parmesan cheese2 then a layer of quenelles of fish2 another layer of macaroni2 over it1 a layer of boiled thin slices of salmon2 macaroni again1 etc4 ,pour boiling consomme over the whole1 and serve4 ,although bearing the name of ,saint ,pierre 7,st4 ,peter71 the above dish has not been devised by the saint2 but1 like all the above1 save that a la ,corinne1 it has been invented by monks4 ,with ,nouilles4--,set broth on the fire in a saucepan1 and at the first boiling take the nouilles from the water with a skimmer and put in the broth1 stir occasionally and boil gently till done4 ,the proportions are according to taste4 ,the more broth used for a certain quantity of nouilles the thinner the soup will be1 and vice versa4 ,salt to taste1 and serve4 ,with ,potatoes4--,cut about half a pint of potatoes with a vegetable spoon 7it is understood half a pint when cut1 the rest being used to make mashed potatoes71 and blanch them for three minutes1 drain and put them in boiling broth2 boil gently till about half done1 add then two or three tablespoonfuls of green peas2 finish the cooking2 and just before serving add a pinch of sugar1 salt to taste1 turn into the soup-dish1 and serve with or without croutons4 ,with ,quenelles4--,drop quenelles in broth2 boil gently till done1 and serve4 ,the proportion according to taste4 ,half a dozen quenelles for each person1 and about half a pint of broth1 make a good proportion4 ,with ,rice4--,put boiled rice in the soup-dish1 turn boiling broth over it1 and serve warm4 ,with ,turnips4--,when clean1 cut the turnips in slices1 drop them in boiling water1 add a little salt1 boil for five minutes1 and drain4 ,set them on the fire in a saucepan1 cover them with milk1 and boil gently till done4 ,mash them through a colander1 put them back on the fire with milk1 butter1 a little sugar and salt2 stir and boil gently a few minutes2 then add a yolk of egg for two turnips1 stir in also two or three tablespoonfuls of cream2 stir1 but do not boil2 put some croutons in the soup-dish1 turn the turnips over1 and serve4 ,puree of ,split ,peas4--,the proportions vary according to taste2 the more peas that are used with a certain quantity of broth1 the thicker the potage will be1 and vice versa4 ,soak one pint of split peas in cold water over night and drain4 ,put them in a saucepan with a few slices of carrot1 same of turnip1 same of onion and salt4 ,cover with cold water1 set on the fire and boil till done4 ,drain1 and then mash through a colander4 ,put back on the fire with warm broth to taste--that is1 to make the potage thin or thick1 season with salt or pepper2 boil gently for five minutes1 stirring the while2 turn into the soup-dish over croutons1 and serve warm4 ,it may be served without croutons4 ,puree of ,green ,peas4--,it is sometimes called a la ,chantilly1 or a la ,francaise4 ,put cold water and a little salt on the fire1 and at the first boiling throw the peas in2 if they are very tender1 leave them in only a few seconds2 if large and rather hard1 boil one or two minutes2 drain1 mash them through a colander1 and finish as the above4 ,puree of ,dry ,beans4--,white and dry beans have several names1 but no matter what kind1 they are prepared alike4 ,if you are not sure that the beans are new1 soak them in cold water for about twenty-four hours1 and drain4 ,cook1 mash1 and serve them the same as split peas4 ,puree of ,lentils4--,wash the lentils in cold water and proceed as for split peas for the rest4 ,puree of ,peas4--,proceed as for split peas4 ,with ,lima ,beans4--,proceed as with green peas4 ,with ,potatoes4--,steam potatoes1 then peel and mash them through a colander4 ,put them back on the fire with broth1 butter1 and salt to taste2 stir1 boil a few minutes1 and serve with croutons4 ,water or milk may be used instead of broth4 ,with ,pumpkins4--,peel1 take away the seed and cut the pumpkin in small pieces2 put them in a stewpan with water just enough to cover them1 a little salt and white pepper1 set on the fire and take off when cooked2 throw away the water1 mash and strain the pumpkin1 put it back in the stewpan1 cover with milk1 add a little sugar1 set it again on the fire1 and take off at the first boiling2 pour a little of it on croutons in the soup-dish1 and keep covered in a warm place for ten minutes2 then pour also the remainder in1 and serve4 ,another4--,prepare as above1 throw the pieces in boiling water with a little salt for five minutes1 mash and drain2 put butter in a stewpan1 set it on the fire2 when melted put the pumpkin in1 stir about five minutes2 have ready in your soup-dish some slices of bread fried in butter1 and dusted with sugar1 pour on them some boiling milk1 keep covered in a warm place two or three minutes2 then turn the pumpkin on1 at the same time mixing the whole gently1 and serve4 ,with ,squash4--,it is made as with pumpkin4 ,with ,asparagus4--,proceed as for green peas4 ,with ,jerusalem ,artichokes4--,it is made like that of potatoes4 ,with ,carrots4--,when made with young carrots1 it is called potage puree ,crecy1 or a la ,crecy4 ,add broth to taste to a puree of carrots1 turn into the soup-dish over croutons1 and serve4 ,with colored ,beans4--,when made with colored beans1 it is called a la ,conde4 ,proceed as with beans4 ,the ,prince of ,conde devised this potage1 and besides cooking the beans in broth1 he used to put in one or two partridges also1 to give1 as he used to say1 a good taste to the beans4 ,with ,cauliflowers4--,make a puree of cauliflowers1 to which you add broth to taste1 and serve with croutons4 ,with ,chestnuts4--,add broth and croutons to a puree of chestnuts1 and serve warm4 ,with ,turnips4--,it is made as with carrots4 ,with ,wheat4--,cut ears of wheat when full1 but not ripe1 and put them away to dry4 ,shell the wheat2 wash it in cold water1 put it in a saucepan1 cover it with broth and boil gently till done4 ,mash through a colander1 put back on the fire with a little butter2 add broth if too thick1 stir now and then for about fifteen minutes2 take from the fire1 add two or three yolks of eggs beaten with a little cream and a pinch of sugar2 mix them well with the rest1 and serve warm4 ,with ,sweet ,corn4--,proceed as with wheat in every particular4 ,it makes a healthy and excellent potage4 ,water may be used instead of broth1 but it is not as nutritive4 ,with ,swallows' ,nests1 or ,chinese ,soup4--,the nests are made a mucilaginous substance of1 and built by the species of swallows called ,hirundo esculenta2 it would require several pages to describe them1 together with their compound material1 and would be out of place in a receipt book4 ,suffice it to say1 that they sell for #ajj a pound in ,london and ,paris 7gold of course71 and the cheapest potage for one person costs about three dollars4 ,soak about four ounces of it in cold water for ten hours1 drain and clean4 ,put it in a saucepan1 cover well with chicken-broth1 place the saucepan in boiling water for about two hours1 add salt to taste1 and then drain again4 ,place the nests in the soup-dish1 pour boiling consomme over them1 and serve warm4 ,the ,chinese are said to use very rich consomme of chicken to prepare them4 ,with ,tomatoes and ,rice4--,blanch half a dozen tomatoes1 and skin them4 ,put them in a saucepan with a quart of broth1 season with an onion sliced1 three or four sprigs of parsley1 one of thyme1 half a dozen pepper-corns1 a bay-leaf1 two cloves1 two cloves of garlic2 salt and pepper4 ,boil gently till reduced to about two-thirds1 then mash gently through a colander4 ,it is understood by mashing gently1 to mash so that all the liquid part shall pass through the colander1 and the seeds and spices shall be retained in it and thrown away4 ,while the tomatoes are on the fire boiling1 set four ounces of rice on the fire with cold water and salt1 and boil it till tender4 ,drain the rice1 put it in a saucepan with the tomato-juice after being mashed1 set the saucepan on the fire1 add one ounce of butter1 a teaspoonful of sugar1 both according to taste2 to make the potage thin or thick1 boil gently fifteen minutes1 turn into the soup-dish1 and serve warm4 ,the same may be done with canned tomatoes2 in that case1 set a can of tomatoes on the fire with the same seasonings1 and proceed exactly as for the above in every other particular4 ,the same with ,croutons4--,fry some croutons with a little butter1 put them in the soup-dish2 turn the potage1 or rather the same mixture as above1 over them2 cover the soup-dish for two or three minutes1 and serve4 ,with ,tomatoes and ,croutons only4--,fry the croutons and put them in the soup-dish2 turn the tomatoes only over them1 after being prepared as above2 cover the soup-dish for two or three minutes1 and serve4 ,puree a la ,reine4--,procure a rather old chicken and cut it in pieces as for fricassee2 set it on the fire in a saucepan with about a quart of cold water1 salt1 and boil gently about one hour4 ,then add about four ounces of rice1 washed in cold water1 continue boiling until the chicken is overdone and tender4 ,take the pieces of chicken from the pan1 scrape the flesh off the bones2 cut the white flesh 7the flesh that is on both sides of the breast-bone7 in dice1 and put it in the soup-dish2 chop fine all the other flesh1 and then mash it through a sieve or strainer1 together with the rice4 ,if it be rather too thick to mash through1 moisten it with broth4 ,a large iron spoon is the best utensil to mash through with4 ,then set the rice and flesh back on the fire in a saucepan with broth to taste1 stir and add immediately from two to four ounces of butter1 a gill of cream1 or1 if not handy1 a gill of milk4 ,keep stirring on a slow fire for five or six minutes2 salt to taste1 turn into the soup-dish1 and serve4 ,there is no danger of curdling if kept on a slow fire and not allowed to boil4 ,the same with ,broth4--,to make the potage richer1 cook the chicken and rice in broth instead of water1 and proceed as above for the rest4 ,the same with consomme4--,the chicken and rice may also be cooked in consomme1 and when mashed through the sieve1 add consomme also instead of broth1 and you have an exceedingly rich soup4 ,this is excellent for persons having throat diseases2 it is easily swallowed1 and very nutritious4 ,the same a la ,francaise4--,the potage puree a la francaise is the same as that a la reine1 with the addition of quenelles of chicken4 ,the same a la ,princesse4--,add to that a la reine1 the white flesh of a roasted chicken1 cut in dice1 and put in the soup-dish4 ,puree of ,game4--,proceed as for potage puree a la reine1 with the exception that you use prairie-hen1 instead of chicken4 ,,soups4 ,maigre1 or ,vegetable ,soup4--,proceed as for julienne in every particular1 except that water is used instead of broth4 ,four ounces of butter may be used instead or two4 ,beef and ,mutton ,soup4--,take three pounds of beef and two pounds of breast of mutton2 put both pieces in a crockery kettle with four quarts of cold water1 salt1 and pepper1 set on a slow fire2 skim carefully1 then add half a carrot1 two turnips1 two onions with one clove stuck in each1 two stalks of celery1 two leeks1 one sprig of parsley1 and one clove of garlic4 ,simmer four or five hours2 dish the meat with carrots1 turnips1 and leeks around1 to be served after the soup if you choose2 strain the broth1 skim the fat off1 put back on the fire1 give one boil2 have croutons in the soup-dish1 pour over them1 and serve4 ,mock ,turtle4--,put two ounces of butter in a saucepan and set it on the fire1 when melted1 add a tablespoonful of flour1 stir1 and when turning brown1 add three pints of broth 7either beef-broth or broth made by boiling a calf's head1 according to taste72 boil five minutes then add a liquor glass of brandy or rum1 from one to three glasses of ,madeira1 ,port1 or ,sherry wine1 about four ounces of calf's-head 7the skin only7 cut in dice1 mushrooms or truffles1 or both1 also cut in dice2 boil five minutes4 ,while it is boiling1 cut two hard-boiled eggs and half a lemon in dice and put them in the soup-dish2 turn the broth over1 and serve4 ,made with beef broth it is certainly richer than when made with calf's-head broth1 the latter is gelatinous but less nourishing than the former4 ,mock ,turtle with consomme4--,use consomme instead of broth1 and you have as rich a soup as can be made4 ,mock turtle is an ,english soup1 very rich and very good4 ,au ,chasseur 7,hunter's or ,sportsman's ,soup74--,a potage au chasseur is always made with game1 such as rabbit1 prairie-hen1 grouse1 venison1 wild turkey1 wild pigeon1 etc41 but never with aquatic birds4 ,it might be made with quail1 but that bird is really too delicate to make soup with4 ,a whole bird or animal is never used1 but the bones and trimmings only4 ,after having cut off the fleshy parts1 the bones are cracked and used to make the potage4 ,take the bones of two prairie-hens after having cut off the flesh on both sides of the breast-bone1 also the legs2 cut the bones in pieces about half an inch long and set them on the fire with half an ounce of butter1 stir for two or three minutes1 cover with broth1 or game broth1 and boil gently till well cooked1 or about two hours4 ,put in another pan1 and set it on the fire at the same time as the above1 half a head of cabbage1 one carrot1 one turnip1 and one onion1 all cut fine2 about half a pound of lean salt pork2 cover with cold water1 and boil gently for about two hours also4 ,in case the water or broth should boil away1 add a little more4 ,after having boiled both vegetables and bones about two hours1 take off the salt pork from the pan in which the vegetables are1 and turn what you have in the other pan over the vegetables1 through a strainer2 add some broth if it is too thick2 boil ten minutes1 and serve4 ,proceed as above with the bones and trimmings of other birds4 ,turtle or ,terrapin4--,cut the turtle in dice1 throw it in boiling water for two or three minutes1 and drain2 put it in a stewpan with onions and ham1 also cut in dice2 season with thyme1 parsley1 bay-leaf1 salt1 pepper1 and a wine-glass of ,madeira wine or of good brandy2 wet with ,espagnole sauce or with consomme1 set on a good fire1 boil about half an hour4 ,ten minutes before taking from the fire1 chop the eggs of the turtle1 after having boiled them1 and put them in a stewpan2 if the turtle has none1 chop and use hard-boiled eggs instead4 ,when done1 throw away parsley1 thyme1 and bay-leaf1 turn into bowls1 add a little chopped chervil1 and a quarter of a rind of lemon1 also chopped2 the latter is enough for six persons4 ,serve warm4 ,it may be strained before putting it in bowls1 according to taste4 ,turtle-steaks are prepared like beef-steaks4 ,with ,rice and ,milk4--,wash half a pound of rice in cold water4 ,set it on the fire with about one pint of milk1 boil gently till done1 filling with more milk1 so as to keep the rice always covered4 ,when cooked1 add a little butter1 milk according to taste1 sugar or salt1 or both1 and serve4 ,it will not take more than two quarts of milk4 ,the ,french name for the above is riz au lait4 ,with ,okra4--,okra or gumbo is little known here2 yet it is good in pickles1 used like cucumbers4 ,it is much used for soup in the ,southern ,states and in the ,west ,indies4 ,when green and tender1 cut it very fine1 cook it in broth1 add a few tomatoes or tomato-sauce1 according to taste2 season with salt1 pepper1 and a pinch of sugar4 ,when the tomatoes are cooked1 serve warm4 ,if dry1 make a potage like that of tapioca1 to which you add a little tomato-sauce and pepper4 ,with ,onions4--,put two ounces of butter in a saucepan1 and when melted add a tablespoonful of flour1 stir1 and when turning rather yellow add also four or five onions sliced1 stir till fried1 when you add broth to taste 7about one quart72 boil gently about fifteen minutes2 mash through a colander1 put back on the fire2 give one boil1 salt and pepper to taste2 turn into the soup-dish1 in which you have some croutons1 and serve4 ,more or less onions may be used1 according to taste4 ,ox-,tail4--,chop the ox-tail in pieces about one inch long1 set them on the fire1 with about one ounce of butter1 stir till it turns rather brown1 and turn the fat off4 ,then add broth to taste1 boil slowly till the pieces of tail are well done2 add salt1 pepper1 and when handy add also three or four tomatoes whole2 boil gently about fifteen minutes longer1 turn into the soup-dish1 and serve meat and all4 ,some add wine and liquor1 the same as to the mock-turtle soup1 but this is according to taste4 ,the soup is excellent served without wine or liquor4 ,when no tomatoes are used1 it is not necessary to boil fifteen minutes longer1 serve as soon as done4 ,simple4--,use water instead of broth2 season with carrot1 turnip1 parsley1 leek1 onions1 cloves1 salt1 and pepper4 ,serve as the above4 ,ox-cheek4--,an ox-cheek soup is made the same as an ox-tail soup4 ,the broth is made with ox-cheek instead of with other parts of the beef1 and the potage or soup made with the broth4 ,a little wine--,madeira1 ,port1 or ,sherry--is sometimes added1 as for mock-turtle4 ,sheep's-tail4--,proceed as for ox-tail in every particular4 ,sheep's-neck4--,made the same as ox-cheek soup4 ,sorrel4--,put two ounces of butter in a saucepan1 set it on the fire1 and as soon as melted1 put a good handful of sorrel in1 stir for about one minute2 then add a pint and a half of water1 salt2 boil two or three minutes2 add again a little butter1 give one boil and turn into the soup-dish in which you have croutons4 ,as soon as taken from the fire1 two1 three1 or four yolks of eggs1 beaten with a tablespoonful of water1 may be added4 ,broth may be used instead of water4 ,oyster4--,put one quart of oysters with their liquor in a saucepan1 with one pint of cold water1 and set it on a good fire4 ,take from the fire at the first boil1 and skim off the scum4 ,take the oysters from the pan with a skimmer and put them in the soup-dish4 ,by keeping the soup-dish in a warm but not hot place1 the oysters will not harden4 ,add to the juice in the saucepan a gill of white wine2 give one boil1 and take from the fire4 ,mix two ounces of butter with two tablespoonfuls of flour in a bowl2 turn the juice and wine into the bowl also1 and mix the whole well2 put the mixture back in the saucepan1 and set it on the fire1 adding about half a dozen mushrooms1 two or three stalks of parsley1 and pepper to taste4 ,boil two minutes1 turn over the oysters through a strainer1 and serve4 ,the mushrooms may also be turned into the soup-dish4 ,cabbage4--,put in a kettle with two quarts and a half of water a pound of salted pork1 same of breast of mutton2 also1 if handy1 the remains of a roasted piece2 set on a slow fire2 skim before it boils1 and then boil for about an hour and a half2 strain1 to remove the small bones1 if any2 put back in the kettle broth and meat1 also one middling-sized cabbage1 which you must have previously thrown in boiling water and boiled ten minutes2 add then two carrots1 one turnip1 two leeks1 half a head of celery1 one onion with a clove stuck in it1 a little salt and pepper1 and about half a pound of sausage 7not smoked72 then boil gently about two hours1 strain the broth1 pour it on croutons in the soup-dish1 and serve4 ,the pork1 mutton1 and sausage1 with the cabbage around1 may be served on a dish after the soup at a family dinner1 or kept for breakfast the next day4 ,cauliflower4--,clean and cut in small pieces three middling-sized cauliflowers4 ,put in a stewpan two ounces of butter1 and set it on a moderate fire2 when hot put the cauliflowers in2 stir now and then till it turns brown1 then add a sprig of thyme1 same of parsley1 a bay-leaf1 one onion with a clove stuck in it1 salt1 and white pepper2 simmer gently till the whole is well cooked1 throw away the onion1 clove1 thyme1 and bay-leaf2 mash well the cauliflowers1 strain and put back on the fire with the broth2 give one boil1 pour on croutons1 and serve4 ,cheese4--,put four ounces of butter in a soup-kettle1 with an onion chopped fine2 set on a brisk fire1 stir now and then till it has a yellow color1 then sprinkle on it half a tablespoonful of flour1 keep stirring till it turns brown2 then add two quarts of water1 salt1 and pepper2 boil about five minutes4 ,have prepared in the soup-dish the following3 a thin layer of grated cheese1 ,gruyere or pine-apple cheese2 on it a layer of thin slices of bread1 then another of cheese1 again another of bread1 etc41 three or four of each2 strain1 and pour the liquor in the kettle on the whole2 keep in a warm place five minutes1 and serve4 ,milk4--,put a quart of milk in a tin saucepan and set it on the fire2 when it begins to rise1 sweeten it to taste2 give one boil1 pour on toasted bread1 or on croutons1 or on two ounces of boiled rice1 and serve4 ,yolks of eggs may be stirred in1 just before turning the milk into the soup-dish1 and when taken from the fire4 ,maigre 7called ,soup aux ,herbes1 ,herb-,broth1 etc474--,wash1 drain1 and chop fine a handful of sorrel1 a dozen sprigs of chervil1 and half a head of lettuce2 put an ounce of butter in a stewpan1 set it on a good fire2 when melted1 put the sorrel1 chervil1 and lettuce in1 add salt and pepper1 stir till the whole is cooked2 then cover with lukewarm water2 boil three minutes1 beat well three yolks of eggs with a tablespoonful of water1 take from the fire and put the eggs in while stirring2 pour immediately on croutons1 and serve4 ,with ,leeks4--,clean six leeks2 cut them in pieces about half an inch long1 then fry them with a little butter till turning rather yellow2 add then about a pint and a half of water1 boil gently till the leeks are perfectly cooked1 salt to taste1 and it is ready for use4 ,this broth may be taken warm or cold4 ,it is a demulcent1 and at the same time the most refreshing drink that can be taken4 ,with ,clams4--,wash and clean the clams well4 ,then put them in a saucepan with half a pint of water 7say one quart of clams71 set on the fire1 and at the first boil1 take off and drain4 ,put the pan back on the fire with two ounces of butter in it2 when melted1 fry a chopped onion in the butter1 add then the liquor drained1 a pint of water1 salt1 pepper1 parsley chopped fine1 and the clams2 boil two minutes1 add also a little butter1 and when melted and mixed1 turn over some croutons in the soup-dish1 and serve warm4 ,with ,muscles4--,proceed as for clams in every particular4 ,allemande1 or ,german ,soup4--,soak four ounces of pearl-barley in tepid water for eight or ten hours1 and strain4 ,put it in a saucepan with one quart of broth1 a piece of leek1 one of celery1 and boil gently about one hour and a half4 ,while it is boiling1 mix well together in a bowl one tablespoonful of flour and half a gill of broth1 which turn into the saucepan1 also grated nutmeg and sugar to taste2 boil ten minutes longer1 and serve4 ,another1 called a la ,maria ,theresa4--,proceed as for the above1 except that you mix in a bowl six yolks of eggs with half a gill of broth1 and no flour2 and finish as in the preceding4 ,another way4--,instead of using pearl-barley1 use flour that you have dried in a bakepan till it turns yellow4 ,indian1 or ,curry4--,put in a saucepan one ounce of butter and set it on the fire2 when melted1 fry in it two large onions1 one carrot1 and half a turnip1 all sliced2 also one leek1 a stalk of celery1 and four of parsley1 all cut fine4 ,when the whole is fried1 cover with about one quart of broth1 season with two cloves1 a bay-leaf1 half a teaspoonful of cayenne pepper1 same of pimento1 two stalks of thyme2 boil gently about one hour and a quarter1 and drain4 ,put the liquor back in the saucepan and add four ounces of boiled rice1 a little saffron to color1 simmer about fifteen minutes longer1 and serve4 ,this soup is good and healthy for southern countries1 but is too highly spiced for this climate4 ,polish1 or ,barscz4--,peel and clean fifteen or twenty red beets1 split them in two or four lengthwise1 and put them in an earthen vessel with a pail of water and about a pound of rye bread2 cover the vessel as air-tight as possible1 and set it in a warm place 7about #hj degrees ,fahr47 for about eight days4 ,after that time the liquor is rather sour1 then drain4 ,put in a saucepan four pounds of lean beef1 one pound of smoked pork1 half a pound of ham1 four onions1 two leeks1 and about four quarts of the liquor made as above4 ,simmer till the whole is done2 skim off the scum that may gather on the surface1 and then strain4 ,roast till half done1 three chickens1 or one chicken and one rabbit1 or one chicken and one duck2 put them on the fire in a saucepan with the liquor strained from the beef1 pork1 etc41 as described above4 ,boil gently about half an hour1 strain the liquor again4 ,then cut the beef1 smoked pork1 and ham1 in small dice1 put the whole in the soup-dish1 with the strained liquor1 and serve warm1 as soup4 ,the chicken1 or chicken and rabbit1 or chicken and duck1 are generally served separately1 with some of the beets used to make the liquor1 and with the addition of mushrooms1 parsley1 celery1 onions1 and sausages1 raw or cooked1 according to taste2 and salt1 pepper1 and spices1 according to taste also4 ,the poorer classes make this soup with water instead of beet-juice1 and very often with mutton instead of beef2 but proceed as described above in every other particular4 ,russian1 or ,uka4--,the uka is made in ,russia with sterlets4 ,it may be made here with the sturgeon of the lakes1 or with salmon or trout4 ,cut the fish in pieces about two inches long1 and put them in salt water for one hour1 and drain4 ,cut in small pieces two roots of parsley and two of celery1 throw them into boiling water five minutes and drain them4 ,then fry them with a little butter till they turn yellow1 when add a gill of broth1 and boil gently till it becomes rather thick4 ,put the pieces of fish in also1 add salt and pepper1 to taste1 cover the whole with fish-broth1 boil gently till the fish is cooked1 and serve warm4 ,some caviare may be added just before serving4 ,another1 or ,tstchy4--,put four pounds of beef in a soup-kettle 7the poorer classes always use mutton71 with a chicken or a duck1 half a pound of smoked pork1 same of smoked sausages1 four carrots1 four cloves1 twelve pepper-corns1 salt1 two leeks1 two onions1 four stalks of parsley1 and one of celery2 cover the whole with fish-broth1 and set on a good fire4 ,skim off the scum carefully1 and boil gently till the whole is done4 ,as soon as either the chicken or duck1 etc41 is done1 take it from the kettle4 ,when the whole is cooked1 drain4 ,put the liquor back in the kettle with a middling-sized head of cabbage cut in four1 or about the same quantity of sour-krout1 slices of carrots and onions1 pearl-barley1 semoule1 or gruel2 simmer about three hours1 and it is done4 ,it is served in two ways3 first1 all the meat and vegetables are cut in small pieces and served with the broth as soup2 second1 the broth is served with the vegetables cut up1 and the meat is served after and separately1 as a releve4 ,nothing is thrown away but the pepper-corns and cloves4 ,spanish1 or ,olla ,podrida4--,put four ounces of lean and fat salt pork into a saucepan and set it on a good fire2 when partly fried1 add half a pound of beef1 same of mutton1 same of veal 7occasionally a chicken or partridge is added also71 and four ounces of ham4 ,just cover the whole with cold water1 and skim carefully as soon as the scum comes on the surface4 ,when skimmed1 add a gill of dry peas1 previously soaked in water for an hour1 half a small head of cabbage1 pimento to taste1 one carrot1 one turnip1 two leeks1 three or four stalks of celery1 same of parsley1 two of thyme1 two cloves1 two onions1 two cloves of garlic1 ten pepper-corns1 and some mace2 fill up with water so that the whole is just covered1 and simmer for about five hours4 ,in case the water should simmer away too much1 add a little more4 ,when done1 dish the pork1 beef1 mutton1 veal1 ham1 and chicken4 ,put the peas1 cabbage1 carrots1 turnips1 leeks1 celery1 and onions on another dish4 ,strain the liquor1 pour it on croutons in the soup-dish1 and serve the three dishes at the same time4 ,the ,spanish peasantry and the lower classes in cities1 serve the whole in the same dish1 and generally omit the beef and veal4 ,the better class serve the soup first1 and then the meat and vegetables afterward4 ,another4--,chop very fine two onions1 one cucumber peeled and seeded1 a little pimento1 two cloves of garlic1 four sprigs of parsley1 same of chervil1 and mix the whole in a bowl with the juice of four tomatoes1 and to which add two or three tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs4 ,then season with oil1 vinegar1 salt1 pepper1 mustard1 and water to taste1 and serve4 ,the ,spanish call it a cool and refreshing soup4 ,,sauces4 ,there is no good cooking possible without good sauces4 ,many excellent pieces of meat1 etc41 are spoiled by being served with a poor sauce4 ,let every one bear in mind that water is no substitute for broth2 that vinegar or water is no substitute for wine1 etc4 ,there is no place where the old proverb can be better applied than in the kitchen1 ,waste not1 spare not4 ,the ,french1 ,italians1 ,spaniards1 and ,germans1 use broth and wine in their cooking1 and do not spend as much as the ,americans for their food2 they could not afford it2 but they waste not1 neither do they lose any thing good through carelessness or prejudice4 ,good sauces are not as difficult to make as is generally believed4 ,this general belief comes from the fact that many1 after having partaken of a certain dish somewhere1 and liking it much1 ask of their own cook to prepare the same4 ,the cook1 most probably1 has never heard of it1 but nevertheless prepares a dish which is hardly eatable1 and is to the other what a crab-apple is to a raspberry4 ,the most important thing in making a sauce is for the cook to put his or her whole attention and care to it4 ,most sauces must be stirred continually while on the fire1 and especially white sauces1 such as ,bechamel1 ,bechamel with cream or cream sauce1 and white sauce4 ,it is necessary to stir all sauces now and then1 to prevent the forming of a kind of skin on the surface4 ,the onions1 shallots1 garlics1 and vinegar1 used in sharp sauces1 may be prepared as described for piquante sauce4 ,sauces can always be made to suit the taste4 ,a thousand can be made as well as a hundred1 by merely adding or subtracting one or more of the compounds1 or by proceeding differently4 ,an idea of what can be done in that line can be formed by reading our directions for ,supreme ,sauce4 ,,how ,,to ,,make ,a ,,sauce ,,thicker ,,when ,,it ,,is ,,too ,,thin1 ,,and ,,thinner ,,when ,,too ,,thick4 ,take two fresh eggs1 break them gently1 and separate the white part from the yolk2 be careful to have the yolk free from any white 7there is in every yolk a little white spot1 which you cannot detach without using a fork1 knife1 or spoon72 mix well the two yolks with two or three tablespoonfuls of the sauce that is too thin1 and a piece of butter the size of a pigeon's egg2 then take the sauce from the fire1 pour the mixture in it1 little by little1 stirring all the time2 when the whole is in1 put back on the fire for three or four minutes1 but do not allow it to boil2 take away and use4 ,when too thick1 add broth4 ,allemande4--,chop fine and fry in butter four or five mushrooms2 then add a little flour1 and four or five tablespoonfuls of broth2 reduce it to a sauce2 put a piece of butter the size of an egg in it1 also a sprig of white parsley chopped fine1 one of thyme1 a clove1 a bay-leaf1 a clove of garlic1 a little nutmeg grated fine1 the juice of a quarter of a lemon1 and three well-beaten yolks of eggs1 boil two or three minutes1 and use4 ,if found too thick1 add a little broth4 ,anchovy ,butter4--,strain essence of anchovy through a fine sieve1 and knead it with fresh butter1 or salt butter that you have kneaded in cold water previously1 and it is ready for use4 ,anchovy ,sauce4--,use butter without salt2 if salty1 work it in cold water4 ,set three ounces of butter in a saucepan on the fire1 and melt it slowly2 then add about two teaspoonfuls of essence of anchovy2 stir a few seconds1 and it is done4 ,more anchovy may be used if liked4 ,it is served in a boat4 ,apple4--,peel1 quarter1 and core four or six apples1 and set them on the fire in a small saucepan1 with two tablespoonfuls of water2 stir now and then till done2 when done1 mash through a fine colander2 add a little sugar1 and it is ready for use4 ,if found too thin1 keep on the fire for some time4 ,if too thick1 add a little water4 ,cranberry4--,put a quart of cranberries in a saucepan and set it on a rather slow fire2 stir occasionally till done2 mash gently through a fine colander1 or through a strainer2 add a little sugar1 and use4 ,currant4--,proceed as for a cranberry-sauce in every particular1 except that it must be mashed through a strainer or through a towel4 ,peach4--,stone about a quart of peaches1 and proceed as for apple-sauce for the rest4 ,raspberry4--,made the same as currant-sauce4 ,the five sauces above are served with roasted game4 ,bechamel4--,mix cold1 and well together1 in a tin saucepan1 two ounces of butter and a tablespoonful of flour2 then add a pint of milk1 and set on the fire2 stir continually1 and when turning rather thick1 take off2 beat a yolk of egg in a cup with a teaspoonful of water2 turn it into the sauce1 and mix well again2 salt and white pepper to taste1 and it is ready for use4 ,blonde4--,proceed exactly as for white sauce1 using broth instead of water4 ,bread4--,take the soft part of half a ten-cent loaf of bread2 break it in pieces1 which put in a saucepan with a quart of good fresh milk1 six pepper-corns chopped fine1 and a little salt2 set on the fire and boil five or six minutes1 stirring the while2 take off1 mash through a strainer or a sieve1 and it is ready for use4 ,a bread-sauce is really a very poor sauce4 ,its insipidity is concealed by the great amount of pepper that it contains4 ,brown ,butter1 or ,beurre ,noir4--,this is butter set on the fire in a frying-pan and left till it turns perfectly brown1 then a few sprigs of parsley are dropped in it1 fried half a minute1 and it is ready for use4 ,it is sometimes used with vinegar1 but in that case it is described in the receipts4 ,caper4--,mix well together1 cold1 in a small saucepan1 two ounces of butter and a tablespoonful of flour2 then add a pint of broth1 set on the fire1 stir1 and when thickening1 add capers to taste1 whole or chopped2 give another boil1 take from the fire1 add salt1 the yolk of an egg beaten with a teaspoonful of water1 mix and serve4 ,celery4--,proceed as for a caper-sauce in every particular except that you add three or four stalks of celery chopped fine1 and then boil ten or twelve minutes1 and strain it before using4 ,colbert4--,set half a pint of meat gravy on the fire1 in a small saucepan with half a dozen mushrooms and one or two truffles chopped fine 7the latter1 if handy71 boil gently five minutes1 add one ounce of butter1 stir1 and when the butter is melted and mixed with the rest1 it is ready for use4 ,coulis of ,fish1 or ,fish ,gravy1 is one and the same thing4 ,boil hard four eggs1 and put the yolks in a mortar4 ,take a pike weighing about two pounds1 clean1 prepare1 and broil it as directed2 split it open1 take all the bones and skin off1 put the flesh in the mortar with the yolks1 and pound the whole1 and knead it with a little butter4 ,place a little butter1 of the size of a walnut1 in a stewpan1 and set it on a good fire2 when melted1 fry in it till of a golden color1 two carrots and two onions cut in slices2 after that add also a piece of bay-leaf1 two sprigs of parsley1 one of thyme1 a little isinglass1 the eggs and fish1 and cover with water2 simmer gently about one hour and a half1 and strain4 ,if found too thin after it is strained1 set it back on the fire1 add a little more isinglass1 and simmer fifteen minutes longer4 ,coulis of ,veal4--,place in a stewpan about one pound of veal1 fillet or knuckle1 with four ounces of bacon1 not smoked1 and cut fine2 also a carrot cut fine1 a little pepper1 and grated nutmeg2 set on a slow fire1 cover well2 half an hour after augment the fire1 and as soon as you see the meat sticking to the pan1 subdue it1 leave it so ten minutes1 then take from the fire1 put the bacon1 veal1 and carrot on a dish2 put butter about the size of an egg in the pan2 when melted1 sprinkle in it a teaspoonful of flour1 stir with a wooden spoon1 then put the meat back into it4 ,cover with warm broth and set on a slow fire for about two hours2 take off1 throw in it a few drops of cold water1 skim off the fat1 strain1 and use4 ,cream4--,a cream-sauce is a ,bechamel made with cream instead of milk4 ,it is often called a la creme1 its ,french name4 ,cucumber4--,proceed as for caper-sauce1 using pickled cucumbers1 chopped fine1 instead of capers4 ,egg4--,proceed as for caper-sauce in every particular1 except that you use two hard-boiled eggs1 chopped fine1 instead of capers4 ,diplomat4--,make a cream-sauce with one pint of cream4 ,when made1 put in it nearly half a pound of lobster butter1 stir1 and when the whole is well mixed1 add also about a tablespoonful of essence of anchovy and mix again2 pepper to taste1 and use4 ,it is a rich sauce1 used with boiled fish and baked or roasted meat4 ,espagnole4--,this sauce is very seldom made in the kitchen of a family1 except of a large and wealthy family1 being a rather expensive one4 ,in the kitchen of a family1 gravy or even broth is used in its stead2 but1 when preparing an extra dinner1 it should be made1 and a little of it used in all the brown sauces1 either for meat1 fish1 or vegetables4 ,spread about half a pound of butter in the bottom of a stewpan1 lay in it lean ham and veal1 partridge1 wild rabbit1 pheasant1 or fowl of any kind1 about four ounces of each1 a small carrot cut in dice1 one onion with a clove stuck in it1 half a turnip1 and a sprig of thyme2 cover the pan and set it on the fire2 let it simmer till reduced to a jelly1 then mix in it two tablespoonfuls of flour1 a wine-glass of white wine1 cover with broth1 add salt1 pepper1 a clove of garlic1 a sprig of parsley1 one clove1 a bay-leaf1 and two mushrooms cut in pieces2 simmer from three to four hours1 skim off the scum as soon as it comes on the surface2 when done1 take it from the fire1 throw a few drops of cold water in1 and skim off the fat1 then strain and use4 ,it will keep for some time if kept air-tight in a pot or bottle1 and in a cool1 dry place4 ,essence of ,spinage1 or ,spinach4--,soak in water1 drain1 dry1 and pound well two or three handfuls of spinach1 put them in a coarse towel and press the juice out1 put it in a pan on a moderate fire1 and when nearly boiling1 take it off1 strain1 and add to it a little fine-crushed sugar1 stir a little1 and bottle when cold2 it may be kept for months2 use it where directed4 ,sauce for every kind of ,fish1 boiled1 baked1 or roasted4--,boil hard two eggs1 take the yolks and pound them well1 and place them in a bowl4 ,have boiling water on the fire1 and put in it cives1 burnet1 chervil1 tarragon1 and parsley1 four or five sprigs of each2 boil five minutes1 take off1 drain and pound them well1 then strain them on the eggs1 add two tablespoonfuls of cider vinegar1 two of ,french mustard1 salt1 pepper1 and four tablespoonfuls of sweet-oil1 which you pour in1 little by little1 at the same time mixing the whole well with a boxwood spoon1 and it is ready for use4 ,fines ,herbes4--,chop very fine a small handful of parsley1 shallots1 and chives2 and proceed as for making a caper-sauce1 except that you use the chopped spices instead of capers4 ,genoise4--,put two ounces of butter in a small saucepan1 set it on the fire1 and when melted1 mix in it a tablespoonful of flour2 stir for one minute1 add one-fourth of a carrot1 sliced1 stir now and then1 and when nearly fried1 add also a pint of broth1 half a pint of claret wine1 a small onion1 and a clove of garlic1 chopped2 two cloves1 a bay-leaf1 two stalks of parsley1 one of thyme1 salt1 and pepper2 boil gently about one hour and forty minutes1 and strain4 ,if it boils away1 add a little broth4 ,put it back on the fire with about half an ounce of butter1 boil gently for about ten minutes1 and it is ready for use4 ,this sauce is excellent with any kind of boiled fish1 but especially with trout1 pike1 and pickerel4 ,a trout served with a genoise sauce is considered a recherche dish4 ,hollandaise4--,set one ounce of butter on the fire in a saucepan1 and when melted1 add half a tablespoonful of flour1 stir1 and when turning rather yellow1 add half a pint of broth1 stir for one minute2 add also four sprigs of parsley and four mushrooms chopped fine 7one truffle sliced1 if handy1 would be excellent71 a liquor-glass of ,madeira1 ,port1 or ,sherry wine2 boil gently ten minutes1 stirring the while1 and serve4 ,indian4--,this sauce may be used with fish1 in summer and in southern places4 ,have a stewpan on a moderate fire1 with two ounces of butter in it2 when melted1 add a teaspoonful of pimento1 salt1 a pinch of saffron1 and one of grated nutmeg1 also one and a half tablespoonfuls of flour--the latter you sprinkle in1 little by little1 stirring the while2 cover with broth1 boil twelve minutes and strain2 afterward add two ounces of butter1 stir a little1 and use4 ,italian4--,tie together two sprigs of parsley1 one of thyme1 and a bay-leaf2 put them in a stewpan with two or three mushrooms cut fine1 one shallot1 a small onion with a clove stuck in it1 a piece of butter the size of a walnut1 and half a pint of white wine2 set on a gentle fire1 and reduce it half2 then add about one tablespoonful of olive-oil and half a pint of broth1 simmer forty minutes1 strain1 and use4 ,lobster4--,chop very fine or pound some of the flesh of a boiled lobster4 ,take a white or blonde sauce1 and instead of taking it from the fire when done1 turn the chopped flesh into it with a little piece of butter2 stir1 give one boil1 and it is ready for use4 ,craw-fish1 prawn1 shrimp1 and crab sauces are made the same as lobster sauce4 ,madeira4--,mix cold in a saucepan two ounces of butter with a tablespoonful of flour1 set on the fire and stir till it turns rather brown2 when add nearly a pint of gravy1 stir till it is becoming thick2 then add half a pint of ,madeira wine1 little by little1 stirring the while1 give one boil only1 salt to taste1 and then strain and use4 ,champagne sauce is made in the same way1 except that it must be poured in faster and used immediately4 ,all wine sauces may be made in the same way4 ,we mean wine sauces for meat or fish4 ,maitre d',hotel4--,this sauce is sometimes called butter maitre d'hotel4 ,mix and knead well together in a bowl1 two ounces of butter1 a tablespoonful of chopped parsley and the juice of a half lemon2 salt to taste and use4 ,pepper1 grated nutmeg1 and chopped chives1 may be added if liked4 ,using vinegar instead of lemon-juice makes an inferior sauce4 ,mayonnaise4--,in warm weather it is necessary to put the bowl on ice while making it4 ,put one or two yolks of fresh eggs in a bowl with a small pinch of salt2 commence stirring with a box-wood spoon1 or1 what is still better1 a stone or marble pestle4 ,stir without interruption1 always in the same way and describing a circle4 ,it is more easily done if the bowl is held steady4 ,after having stirred about half a minute1 commence pouring the oil in1 drop by drop1 and as soon as you see that it is thickening pretty well1 add also a few drops of vinegar and same of lemon-juice2 then continue with the oil in the same way4 ,every time that it becomes too thick1 add a little vinegar1 but continue stirring4 ,you put as much oil as you please2 two bottles of oil might be used and it would still be thick4 ,spread it on chicken salad1 etc4 ,tartar4--,chop some capers and shallots very fine1 mix them well with a mayonnaise when made1 and you have a ,tartar sauce4 ,mushroom4--,proceed exactly as for caper-sauce1 using chopped mushrooms instead of capers4 ,piquante4--,take a small saucepan and set it on the fire with two ounces of butter in it1 and when melted add a small onion chopped2 stir1 and when nearly fried add a tablespoonful of flour1 stir1 and when turning rather brown1 add half a pint of broth1 salt1 pepper1 a pickled cucumber chopped1 four stalks of parsley1 also chopped1 and mustard2 boil gently about ten minutes1 add a teaspoonful of vinegar2 give one boil1 and serve4 ,another way4--,set the chopped onion on the fire with one gill of vinegar1 and boil gently till the vinegar is entirely absorbed1 or boiled away4 ,make the same sauce as above in another pan1 omitting the onion and vinegar1 and when done mix the two together1 and it is ready for use4 ,another4--,add three shallots1 chopped fine1 to the chopped onion1 and proceed as above for the rest4 ,parisienne4--,make a bunch of seasonings with six sprigs of parsley1 one of thyme1 a bay-leaf1 and two cloves2 put it in a saucepan with half a pint of chopped truffles1 and about a pint of white wine2 set on the fire and boil gently till about half reduced1 strain1 put back on the fire1 turn into it1 little by little1 stirring the while1 nearly a pint of gravy or consomme2 continue stirring now and then till it begins to turn rather thick1 add pepper to taste1 strain1 and use with fish and game4 ,poivrade4--,put a piece of butter the size of an egg in a stewpan1 and set it on the fire2 when melted1 sprinkle in it1 little by little1 about a tablespoonful of flour1 stirring the while2 when of a proper thickness1 and of a brownish color1 take from the fire1 add a tablespoonful of vinegar1 a wine-glass of claret wine1 a glass of broth1 a shallot cut in two1 a middling-sized onion1 also cut in two1 with a clove stuck in each piece1 a sprig of thyme1 one of parsley1 a bay-leaf1 a clove of garlic1 a little salt1 and two pepper-corns2 boil about twenty minutes1 strain and use4 ,the vinegar1 shallot1 and onion may be boiled separately as for a piquante sauce4 ,polonaise4--,put four ounces of butter in a saucepan on the fire1 and when melted add two or three tablespoonfuls of the soft part of bread1 bruised in a coarse towel2 stir for about one minute1 salt to taste1 and use4 ,like the ,parisienne1 it is used with game4 ,poulette4--,set a stewpan on the fire with a piece of butter the size of an egg in it2 when melted1 sprinkle in it a tablespoonful of flour1 stirring the while2 pour gently in it also1 and little by little1 a glass of warm water1 and a wine-glass of white wine1 or broth instead of both1 salt1 pepper1 a sprig of parsley1 one of thyme1 a bay-leaf1 a chopped shallot1 a little nutmeg1 four small white onions1 and two or three mushrooms 7the latter cut fine and fried in butter before using them72 simmer till the whole is well cooked1 strain and use4 ,in case it should be found too light1 add when done1 and before taking from the fire1 two or three yolks of eggs1 and the juice of a lemon4 ,princesse4--,make a cream-sauce with one pint of cream and set it on a moderate fire2 immediately turn into it1 stirring the while1 about half a pint of reduced1 good meat gravy2 when thoroughly mixed1 add two or three ounces of butter1 stir for a couple of minutes longer1 strain and use immediately4 ,it is a very rich sauce1 used with boiled fish and roasted or baked meat4 ,provencale4--,chop fine two or three mushrooms1 and two shallots2 put the whole in a stewpan with a clove of garlic1 and two tablespoonfuls of olive-oil2 set on a moderate fire1 and leave till half fried2 then sprinkle in it half a teaspoonful of flour1 stirring the while2 add also half a pint of white wine1 and as much broth1 and two small onions1 two sprigs of parsley1 one of thyme1 half a bay-leaf1 salt1 and pepper2 simmer about half an hour1 take from the fire1 and a few minutes after skim off the fat2 take out the garlic1 onions1 parsley1 thyme1 and bay-leaf1 and it is then ready for immediate use4 ,ravigote4--,chop fine1 and in equal proportion1 two tablespoonfuls of chervil1 tarragon1 and pepper-grass1 also1 in equal proportion1 one teaspoonful of burnet and table celery2 place the whole in a stewpan with salt and pepper1 cover with broth1 set on the fire1 and boil twenty minutes2 after which take from the fire1 and strain4 ,mix two ounces of butter with flour enough to make a paste1 put it with the sauce on the fire1 add a tablespoonful of cider vinegar2 simmer till of a proper thickness1 and use4 ,robert4--,put about four ounces of butter in a stewpan1 set it on a moderate fire2 when melted1 sprinkle in it about a tablespoonful of flour1 stirring the while2 when of a brownish color1 add three small onions chopped fine1 salt1 and pepper2 stir1 and leave on the fire till the whole is turning brown1 then add a glass of broth1 boil about thirty minutes1 and strain2 mix well in a cup one teaspoonful of vinegar1 one of sugar1 and one of mustard1 which mix again with the sauce1 and it is ready to be used4 ,remolade4--,chop very fine a small handful of chervil1 tarragon1 and burnet1 in equal proportion1 and put them in a saucer or boat2 add salt1 pepper1 nutmeg grated1 and mustard1 to taste2 also one or two hard-boiled eggs cut in dice2 mix the whole gently and well2 then add the vinegar1 and lastly the oil4 ,the two latter ones are put in little by little1 stirring gently the while4 ,serve as it is4 ,another4--,proceed as for the above1 except that you chop fine with the chervil1 etc41 some parsley1 shallot1 and garlic2 the five spices in equal proportion4 ,when finished1 add also a pinch of sugar4 ,roux4--,set a small saucepan on a moderate fire1 with two ounces of butter in it2 sprinkle into it1 when melted1 a tablespoonful of flour2 stir1 and when turning brown1 use4 ,shallot4--,chop the shallots1 and proceed as for caper-sauce1 using them instead of capers4 ,soubise4--,put about half a pint of good meat gravy in a saucepan2 set it on the fire1 and when boiling add half a gill of ,madeira wine2 when well mixed1 add also two or three tablespoonfuls of puree of white onions1 salt1 and pepper2 boil five minutes1 stirring now and then1 and it is made4 ,a soubise is an excellent sauce for baked or boiled fish1 also for roasted meat4 ,supreme4--,this sauce is made in several ways4 ,we will give here the three principal ones3 #a4 ,make an ,allemande sauce2 and when done1 add to it two ounces of butter and half a gill of consomme2 stir and mix1 and place on a brisk fire to start it boiling at once2 take it from the fire as soon as it becomes thick2 then add a few drops of lemon-juice1 and use4 #b4 ,make a roux2 add to it about half a pint of chicken gravy2 stir or boil five or six minutes2 then add two ounces of butter1 the juice of a lemon1 a pinch of parsley chopped fine2 give one boil1 and use4 #c4 ,this is made like ,no4 #b1 except that you use an ,allemande sauce instead of a roux1 and besides the pint of chicken gravy1 etc41 you add also half a gill of white wine4 ,it is used especially with roasted chicken and game4 ,tomato4--,if you use fresh tomatoes1 blanch them first2 if preserved1 use them as they are in the can4 ,put one pint of tomatoes in a saucepan with a small onion and a clove of garlic sliced2 also two stalks of parsley1 one of thyme1 a bay-leaf1 one clove1 six pepper-corns1 and salt2 boil gently till reduced about one-third1 when mash gently through a strainer or sieve2 all the tomato-seed and seasonings must remain in the strainer2 put back on the fire1 with a little piece of butter2 give one boil1 and it is done4 ,truffle4--,this sauce is made like a caper-sauce1 using chopped or sliced truffles instead of capers4 ,veloute4--,this and gravy is nearly the same thing4 ,it is gravy made as directed for gravy1 with the addition of a dozen mushrooms chopped fine2 and is used for sauces1 like gravy1 to make sauces richer than with broth4 ,vinaigrette4--,put salt and pepper in a saucer 7and mustard1 if it is to be used with butcher's meat2 but with fish1 chicken1 or birds1 it is really too strong2 it neutralizes the delicate flavor of the object71 and pour vinegar over1 little by little1 beating with a fork at the same time2 then pour the oil1 also little by little1 and while beating2 a little chopped parsley is also added2 and serve with cold meat1 fish1 or vegetables4 ,it is quickly made1 is good1 and makes an excellent dish for breakfast1 served as we said above4 ,white4--,put two ounces of butter in a small saucepan and set it on the fire1 stir a little1 and as soon as melted1 remove on a rather slow fire2 add a tablespoonful of flour1 stir continually till thoroughly mixed 7two or three minutes72 then add again about a pint of boiling water1 pouring gently1 and stirring the while1 take off when it begins to turn thick2 add a yolk of egg beaten with a teaspoonful of cold water1 mix it well with the rest1 and it is ready for use2 after having mixed1 also salt and white pepper to taste4 ,oyster4--,add to a white sauce some oysters blanched2 then stir and mix with the whole the juice of half a lemon4 ,muscle4--,boil the muscles about one minute and make as oyster-sauce4 ,,sauces ,,for ,,puddings4 ,milk4--,put in a block-tin saucepan four tablespoonfuls of sugar1 one of flour1 four yolks of eggs1 one pint of milk2 essence to flavor1 and mix the whole well2 set on a good but not sharp fire1 stir continually till it begins to become rather thick2 take off1 turn over the pudding1 and serve4 ,madeira4--,set a saucepan on the fire with one ounce of butter in it2 as soon as melted1 add half a tablespoonful of flour1 stir till it turns rather yellow1 and add also one pint of water1 four ounces of sugar1 and a few drops of burnt sugar2 boil gently1 about twenty-five minutes2 add nearly a gill of ,madeira wine1 boil again ten minutes1 and serve in a boat4 ,rum4--,proceed as for ,madeira-sauce1 except you use half a gill of rum instead of ,madeira4 ,brandy4--,proceed as for rum-sauce1 using the same proportion of brandy4 ,,farces ,,and ,,garnitures1 ,,called ,,also ,,garnish ,,and ,,garnishing1 ,,used ,,to ,,decorate ,,or ,,ornament ,,dishes4 ,with ,bread4--,put in a tureen about a pound of the soft part of bread1 and cover with broth2 when it has absorbed the broth1 place it in a stewpan1 set it on a slow fire1 and leave till it becomes a thick paste2 stir now and then1 then mix well with it three yolks of eggs1 and it is ready for use4 ,with ,cabbage4--,throw into boiling water a little salt and a middling-sized cabbage2 boil it half an hour1 take it from the kettle with a skimmer1 throw it in cold water1 and drain it1 pressing it a little in the drainer to force the water out2 cut off the stump1 and chop the cabbage fine4 ,have in a stewpan on the fire1 three or four ounces of fresh butter2 put the cabbage in when the butter is half melted1 sprinkling on while stirring a teaspoonful of flour2 pour on it1 little by little1 some broth1 stirring the while1 and when it has a fine brownish color1 wet with broth enough to boil it2 season with salt1 a little grated nutmeg1 and four pepper-corns2 boil gently till the sauce is thick enough1 take away the pepper-corns1 and use4 ,with ,combs of ,chicken4--,soak the combs over night in cold water1 and then clean them well by wiping roughly with a coarse towel1 wetted and salted2 wash and drain them2 put a dozen of them in a saucepan with two sweetbreads blanched1 cover the whole with broth1 and boil till done2 then add salt1 pepper1 a few drops of lemon-juice1 and it is ready for use4 ,with ,cauliflowers4--,proceed as for cabbage in every particular1 except that it does not require as long doing4 ,with ,croutons4--,cut pieces of soft part of stale bread in different shapes1 and fry them on both sides in butter or fat4 ,for potage1 they are cut in dice1 but for decorating dishes1 they are cut either round1 square1 oblong1 or of a heart1 star-like1 half moon1 butterfly1 or flower shape1 and about one-quarter of an inch thick4 ,take them off with a skimmer1 and turn into a colander to drain4 ,illustration ,the cut d is used for potage1 and a1 b1 c1 etc41 are used to decorate4 ,duxelle4--,make a fines-herbes sauce1 and when ready to be used1 add half a gill of gravy1 and give one boil2 add also two or three yolks of eggs1 simmer one minute1 and use warm4 ,mushrooms1 whole or in slices1 may be added at the same time the yolks of eggs are added4 ,with ,eggs4--,mash and mix well together six hard-boiled yolks of eggs with three yolks not cooked1 salt and pepper4 ,put the mixture in parts on the paste-board1 which must be previously dusted with flour2 roll each part and give it the shape of a small egg 7a pigeon's egg or a little larger74 ,when the whole is thus prepared1 drop in boiling water1 boil till cooked1 and use to decorate meat or fish4 ,financiere4--,a garniture financiere is the same as a garniture with combs of chicken1 to which are added some mushrooms and truffles1 both cut in slices4 ,it is generally served with a roast chicken4 ,with ,livers4--,geese livers are the best1 being the fattest4 ,drop two geese livers in boiling water and a little salt1 boil three minutes and drain4 ,put in a saucepan one gill of broth1 same of white wine1 ,sauterne or ,catawba1 a tablespoonful of gravy1 six pepper-corns1 two or three stalks of parsley1 salt1 and the livers2 set on the fire and boil gently for about twenty-five minutes4 ,take off the livers1 boil a few minutes longer to thicken the sauce1 turn it over the livers through a strainer1 and it is ready4 ,the same may be done with the livers of poultry or any other kind of birds2 the seasonings are the same1 and the proportion is according to the size or to the number of livers4 ,besides being used as garnishing1 it may be served as a breakfast dish4 ,macedoine4--,blanch a dozen of ,brussels cabbages4 ,blanch also half a dozen asparagus cut in pieces about an inch long4 ,put four ounces of butter in a saucepan on the fire1 and when melted put it into a gill of carrots1 same of turnips1 both cut with a vegetable spoon1 also a dozen small onions2 stir now and then till the whole is about half done1 when add a little over a pint of broth and the ,brussels cabbages2 boil about ten minutes4 ,then add again the blanched asparagus1 half a dozen mushrooms1 broth just enough to cover the whole1 simmer till every thing is done1 salt and pepper to taste1 a pinch of sugar and it is ready for use4 ,water may be used instead of broth1 but is inferior4 ,a macedoine may be served with any meat--roasted1 baked1 or broiled4 ,with ,mushrooms4--,chop fine half a pint of fresh mushrooms and two tablespoonfuls of parsley4 ,set a saucepan on the fire with two ounces of fat grated salt pork in it1 as much butter1 and as soon as the butter is melted put the mushrooms and parsley in2 season with salt1 pepper1 a little grated nutmeg1 and a quarter of a pint of white wine2 let boil gently till reduced to a jelly1 and use4 ,when done1 three or four yolks of eggs may be mixed with it4 ,with ,onions4--,put a dozen onions in a crockery saucepan and half cover them with broth4 ,cover the pan as well as possible1 simmer till cooked1 then add a teaspoonful of sugar1 salt1 simmer again for about ten minutes1 basting now and then1 and serve warm with beef1 mutton1 or venison4 ,quenelles4--,chop fine one pound of fresh veal1 half lean and half fat--the fat nearest the kidney is the best2 then pound it well and mash it through a sieve4 ,mix two yolks of eggs with it1 and season to taste with salt1 pepper1 nutmeg grated1 and powdered cinnamon4 ,spread flour on the paste-board1 put a teaspoonful of meat here and there2 roll gently each part into small balls1 using as little flour as possible4 ,they may also be rolled of an olive shape4 ,throw the balls into boiling broth or boiling water at the first boiling1 boil five minutes and drain4 ,as soon as cold they are ready for use4 ,boulettes1 fricadelles1 godiveau1 and quenelles are one and the same thing4 ,whole eggs may be used instead of the yolks only1 add also a few bread-crumbs4 ,to the seasonings above some parsley chopped fine may be added4 ,make quenelles with any kind of meat--butcher's meat1 poultry1 and game1 also with fish well boned4 ,to the lean meat add the same weight of fat veal1 as above directed1 or1 in its stead1 beef suet4 ,truffles or mushrooms1 or both1 may be added to the mixture1 either of meat or of fish4 ,quenelles are used for garnitures1 etc4 ,they may be fried instead of boiled4 ,salpicon4--,cut in dice an equal quantity of each1 and to weigh altogether about one pound and a half1 calf sweetbreads1 livers1 or flesh of fowls1 and ham--three kinds in all2 also two mushrooms and two truffles2 all must be nearly cooked in water beforehand4 ,put them in a stewpan1 season with salt1 pepper1 a bay-leaf1 a clove of garlic1 an onion1 a sprig of parsley1 and one of thyme2 cover with half a pint of broth1 and as much of white wine2 set on a slow fire2 it must not boil1 but simmer gently2 stir now and then till the whole is well cooked2 take out the bay-leaf1 onion1 garlic1 parsley1 and thyme4 ,in case the sauce should not be thick enough1 add a little fecula1 stir1 and leave awhile longer on the fire1 and it is ready for use4 ,with ,truffles4--,slice the truffles and put them in a saucepan with a pinch of sugar1 broth and claret wine enough to cover them1 half of each1 simmer for about twenty minutes1 add a little potato starch1 boil gently till it begins to thicken1 and use4 ,lobster ,butter4--,put the flesh of the two large claws of a boiled lobster with a little of the inside1 about a tablespoonful1 in a mortar and pound well4 ,add about the same volume of good butter and pound again till the whole is well mixed4 ,it is then mashed through a fine sieve1 and is ready for use4 ,when the lobster has coral1 it is pounded with the rest1 and gives a fine color to the butter4 ,if the lobster has no coral1 a piece of the reddest part of the shell is pounded with the rest1 when the butter is to be colored4 ,this butter may be used instead of ordinary butter for fish-sauces1 or for making a maitre d'hotel for boiled fish1 or for garnishing the same4 ,to clarify it1 just put the butter into a bowl when made1 put the bowl in a boiling bain-marie for about half an hour1 take off and immediately turn it through a cloth into a bowl half full of cold water4 ,the cloth must be rather twisted1 to cause the butter to run through4 ,when it is in the bowl1 stir it till rather hard2 work it in a ball1 and wipe it dry4 ,thus clarified it is finer than when used merely mixed4 ,the same butter may be made1 and in the same way1 with craw-fish1 prawns1 and shrimps4 ,horse-radish ,butter4--,grate some horse-radish and mix it well with about the same volume of butter1 mash through a sieve1 and it is ready for use4 ,tarragon and garlic butter are made as the above4 ,if the butter be found too strong1 use more butter and less of garlic1 etc4 ,ravigote ,butter 7called also ,beurre de ,montpellier74--,blanch the following spices3 parsley1 tarragon1 chives1 chervil--parsley and chervil in equal proportion and about half as much of the two others1 about two handfuls altogether--drain dry and put them in a mortar with two anchovies boned1 one shallot chopped and bruised in a coarse towel1 half a dozen capers1 a rather small piece of pickled cucumber1 four ounces of butter1 two hard-boiled yolks of eggs1 and the juice of half a lemon4 ,pound the whole well together1 then add a tablespoonful of essence of spinach1 mix well1 mash through a sieve1 and use4 ,this butter is excellent to decorate and to eat with cold fish4 ,it is sometimes used with cold birds4 ,hazel-nut ,butter4--,pound some hazel-nuts or filberts and then mix throughly with good butter1 mash through a sieve1 and use as ordinary butter4 ,the proportion according to taste4 ,it is easily prepared1 and is delicious4 ,do the same with pea-nuts1 or any other nut4 ,melted ,butter4--,put butter in a crockery vessel and place it above a pan of water or some other liquid1 heated but not boiling1 so that the butter will melt slowly and gradually4 ,sometimes the butter may be wanted soft only1 or what is called melted soft1 or thoroughly melted4 ,it is easy to obtain those different states above with heated liquor1 and the butter1 though melted1 is more firm than when melted on the fire4 ,scented ,butter4--,whenever a certain flavor is desired with butter1 put a piece of firm and good butter in a bowl with a few drops of essence1 knead well1 and then mash through a sieve4 ,,purees4 ,purees are made with vegetables1 but when the flesh or poultry or other birds is mashed through a sieve after being cooked1 it is sometimes called a puree also4 ,the bones of a ham1 after the flesh is disposed of1 is the most excellent thing you can put with the vegetables to boil them in order to make purees4 ,one-third of the bones of a middling-sized ham is enough for about a quart of vegetables4 ,when you have no ham bones1 use four ounces of good salt pork1 as lean as possible2 but never use smoked pork1 it gives a disagreeable taste to the puree4 ,of ,dry ,beans1 white or colored1 ,kidney1 ,lima1 or any other kind4--,dry beans must be soaked in cold water1 or even in lukewarm water1 when in a hurry4 ,according to the nature of the beans1 they must be soaked for from six to twenty-four hours4 ,soak a quart of beans as directed above2 drain and put them in a saucepan with one-third of the bones of a ham1 or about four ounces of salt pork2 cover with cold water1 season with a bay-leaf1 a sprig of thyme1 two of parsley1 two middling-sized onions1 with two cloves stuck in them1 and a carrot cut in pieces2 when the whole is well cooked1 throw away thyme1 bay-leaf1 onions1 and cloves2 mash well through a colander all the rest except the bacon4 ,while mashing them through the colander1 wet them with some of the water in which they have boiled1 else it would be difficult and long4 ,when mashed1 put them in a saucepan with a little broth or water1 salt1 and two ounces of butter2 stir now and then till the butter is melted and thoroughly mixed with the rest1 and it is ready for use4 ,the quantity of broth or water is according to how thick or thin they are wanted4 ,the salt pork is good to eat4 ,of ,lentils4--,it is made in the same way as that of beans1 except that they do not require to be soaked more than five or six hours in cold water4 ,of ,peas 7dry or split74--,proceed as for lentils in every particular4 ,of ,chestnuts4--,remove the skin of a quart of chestnuts and drop them in boiling water1 with a little salt4 ,as soon as the under skin comes off easily1 take them from the fire1 drain1 drop them in cold water1 and then remove the under or white skin2 put them in a saucepan with about one quart of broth1 set on the fire and boil gently till well done1 and mash through a colander4 ,then put the chestnuts1 and what is left of the broth1 in a saucepan1 set on the fire1 stir1 add a pinch of sugar and an ounce of butter2 give one boil1 and it is made4 ,of ,green ,peas4--,wash a quart of green peas in cold water1 and drain2 put two quarts of cold water on the fire in a saucepan1 with a little salt1 and at the first boil throw the peas in1 season with three or four sprigs of parsley1 one of thyme1 two onions1 and two cloves1 a carrot in slices1 salt1 and pepper2 boil till tender4 ,it may take only two minutes1 or it may require half an hour1 according to how tender the peas are4 ,mash through a colander1 and finish like puree of beans1 using either broth or water4 ,with broth it is richer and better4 ,of ,lima ,beans4--,proceed for green ,limas as for green peas4 ,of ,sweet ,corn4--,it is made like that of green peas4 ,of ,asparagus4--,cut the eatable part of the asparagus in pieces1 and proceed as for puree of green peas4 ,of ,potatoes4--,steam a quart of potatoes1 and then mash them well2 put them in a saucepan with half a pint of milk1 two ounces of butter1 and salt2 set on the fire1 stir now and then1 take off and use4 ,it takes about fifteen minutes after being set back on the fire4 ,another way4--,proceed as above1 using broth or water instead of milk4 ,of ,jerusalem ,artichokes4--,prepared as potatoes4 ,of ,carrots4--,clean well1 and cut in slices1 a dozen middling-sized carrots2 put them in a stewpan with four ounces of butter1 and set on the fire2 when about half fried1 cover with broth or water2 season with half a bay-leaf1 a small sprig of thyme1 one of parsley1 a small onion1 and a clove stuck in it2 when the whole is well cooked1 throw away onion1 clove1 bay-leaf1 and thyme1 mash the rest through a colander2 then put back on the fire1 with a little butter2 simmer for about two hours1 stirring occasionally1 and it is made4 ,in case it should turn too thick1 add broth or water4 ,the longer they are simmered1 the better the taste4 ,of ,turnips4--,proceed as with carrots in every particular4 ,of ,celery4--,it is always made with turnip-rooted celery4 ,clean the celery well1 wash and cut it in pieces1 and prepare as puree of carrots1 adding a teaspoonful of sugar4 ,of ,cauliflowers4--,separate the branches1 and throw them in boiling water and salt2 boil two minutes and drain4 ,put them on the fire with broth or water1 enough just to cover them1 two or three stalks of parsley1 and salt to season4 ,boil gently till tender2 remove the parsley2 mash through a colander2 put back on the fire with a little butter and white pepper1 simmer about ten minutes1 stirring now and then the while1 and it is ready for use4 ,instead of butter1 some cream may be added4 ,of ,pumpkin4--,made exactly the same as that of cauliflowers1 after the pumpkin is peeled and cut in pieces4 ,of ,squash4--,same as pumpkin4 ,of ,spinach4--,clean the spinach1 and cut off the stem2 the leaf only is good2 wash and drain it2 put cold water and a little salt on the fire1 and throw the spinach in at the first boil4 ,when tender1 drain and drop immediately in cold water2 drain again1 and then chop it very fine4 ,after being chopped1 it may be mashed through a sieve1 to have it finer2 put it back on the fire without any water at all1 and when it gets rather dry1 add a little flour2 stir and mix2 add again a little gravy or good broth2 stir1 then salt to taste1 and it is ready for use4 ,if the spinach is young and tender1 it takes only two or three minutes boiling before chopping it4 ,from the time it is put back on the fire1 it takes about five or six minutes to finish it4 ,of ,sorrel4--,proceed as with spinach in every particular4 ,of ,mushrooms4--,clean well and cut in pieces a quart of fresh mushrooms2 soak them in cold water1 in which you have put the juice of a lemon2 drain1 and chop them fine4 ,put a stewpan on the fire1 with a piece of butter the size of a duck's egg2 when melted1 put your mushrooms in2 when half fried1 add the juice of a lemon1 finish frying1 then cover with some roux-sauce2 let simmer till it becomes rather thick1 strain and use4 ,of ,onions4--,peel1 quarter1 and blanch for eight minutes1 a dozen onions4 ,drain and put them in a saucepan with four or six ounces of butter1 according to the size of the onions2 set on a slow fire1 stir now and then till well done2 then season with salt1 a little flour1 stir for two minutes to cook the flour1 and mix it thoroughly with the rest2 take from the fire2 add cream1 little by little1 stirring the while4 ,it does not require much cream to make the puree of a proper thickness4 ,mash through a sieve or fine colander1 add a pinch of sugar1 and it is ready for use4 ,it makes an excellent puree1 and is good served with nearly every kind of meat4 ,made with white onions1 and properly mashed through a sieve1 it looks like cream1 and is almost as white as snow4 ,,fish4 ,the ,indians bleed the fish as soon as caught1 because the flesh is firmer when cooked4 ,the ,dutch and the ,french bleed the cod1 which accounts for the better quality and whiteness of their cod-fish4 ,to select4--,to be good1 fish must be fresh4 ,it is fresh when the eyes are clear1 the fins stiff1 the gills red1 hard to open1 and without bad odor4 ,to clean and prepare for boiling4--,the sooner fish is cleaned the better4 ,cut the belly open1 take the inside out1 wash well and wipe dry immediately with a clean towel1 inside and out4 ,place the eggs or soft roes inside1 and tie with twine4 ,it is then ready to be boiled4 ,if not cooked as soon as cleaned and prepared1 keep it on ice4 ,to clean and prepare for baking1 frying1 roasting1 and to cut in pieces1 etc4--,scale the fish well1 holding it by the head or tail2 cut the belly open and take the inside out2 trim off the fins1 gills1 and tail2 wash well inside and out1 and wipe dry immediately4 ,keep it on ice if not used immediately4 ,same ,family1 or ,kind4--,we give only one receipt for all the fishes of the same family1 or having the same kind of flesh1 as they are cooked alike1 and require the same spices4 ,almost every kind of fish is boiled1 broiled1 fried1 or stewed4 ,some are better boiled than broiled1 others better fried than stewed1 etc4 ,with few exceptions1 any eatable fish may be cooked in these four ways4 ,few are roasted4 ,to know when cooked enough4--,it is very difficult1 if not entirely impossible1 to tell how long it takes to cook fish1 as it depends as much on the size1 kind1 or quality of the fish as on the fire2 but as soon as the flesh comes off the bones easily1 the fish is cooked2 this is very easy to be ascertained with a knife4 ,to improve4--,clean the fish as for baking1 etc41 and lay it in a crockery vessel with the following seasonings under and upon it3 parsley and onions chopped fine1 salt1 pepper1 thyme1 bay-leaves1 and vinegar or oil2 turn it over occasionally1 and leave thus for two or three hours4 ,to bone4--,slit the fish on one side of the backbone and fins1 from head to tail2 then run the knife between the bones and the flesh so as to detach the whole side from the rest2 do the same for the other side4 ,for a flounder1 or any other flat fish1 slit right in the middle of both sides of the fish so as to make four instead of two pieces4 ,the head1 bones1 and fins are not used at all1 and are left in one piece4 ,to serve1 when boiled4--,the fish is placed on a napkin and on a dish or platter1 surrounded with parsley1 and the sauce served in a saucer4 ,to skin4--,take hold of the piece of fish by the smaller end1 and with the thumb and forefinger of the left hand2 run the knife between the flesh and skin1 moving the knife to and fro as if you were sawing4 ,throw away the skin1 and the fish is ready for cooking4 ,if the skin were breaking1 as it happens sometimes1 take hold of it again1 and proceed as before4 ,to decorate4--,fish may be decorated with jelly1 but it is easier and more sightly with craw-fish4 ,the skewers are stuck in the fish as they are in a fillet of beef4 ,the craw-fish when boiled are red like the lobster1 and1 besides using them with skewers1 some may be placed all around the fish2 it is delicate eating as well as sightly4 ,skewers are never used with fish in vinaigrette1 or when the fish is cut in pieces4 ,the craw-fish has only to be boiled before using it for decorating fish4 ,shrimps and prawns are used the same as craw-fish4 ,oysters are also used1 raw or blanched2 run the skewer through a large oyster or craw-fish1 then through a slice of truffle2 again through an oyster1 truffle1 etc42 through two1 three1 or more of each1 according to the size of the skewer or of the fish4 ,illustration ,fish-kettle4--,a fish-kettle must have a double bottom4 ,it is more handy to take the fish off without breaking it1 and there is no danger of having it spoiled while cooking4 ,fish-kettles are found in every house-furnishing store4 ,baked4--,clean and prepare the fish1 as directed for baking2 put it in a baking-pan with salt1 pepper1 and butter spread all over it2 just cover the bottom of the pan with water or broth2 place a piece of buttered paper over it and bake4 ,baste two or three times2 take off when done1 and serve warm with a sauce4 ,while the fish is baking you prepare the sauce1 put it in a boat1 and serve warm with the fish4 ,a baked fish may be served with its gravy only1 adding a few drops of lemon-juice or vinegar1 or with any kind of sauce1 according to taste4 ,balls4--,fish-balls are often called fish-cakes or fish-croquettes4 ,they are generally made with cold fish1 but it may be cooked especially to make balls4 ,fish1 full of bones1 like shad1 is not fit to make balls2 cod is the easiest4 ,commence by chopping the flesh very fine1 then chop fine also a small piece of onion and fry it with butter 7half a middling-sized onion with two ounces of butter are enough for half a pound of fish72 when fried stir in it a tablespoonful of flour1 and about half a minute after turn the fish in with about a gill of broth or water1 salt1 pepper1 and a pinch of nutmeg2 stir till it turns rather thick1 which will take two or three minutes2 take from the fire1 mix two yolks of eggs with it2 put back on the fire for about one minute1 stirring the while2 then add two or three mushrooms or one truffle1 or both1 chopped fine4 ,turn the mixture into a dish1 spread it1 and put it away to cool for two or three hours1 or over night4 ,before cooking1 mix the whole well1 the upper part being more dry than that which is under2 put it in parts on the paste-board1 roll each part to the shape you wish1 either round1 oval1 or flat2 the paste-board must be dusted with bread-crumbs or flour to help in handling the mixture1 then boil or fry1 according to taste4 ,it may also be baked in cakes4 ,when fried1 they may be dipped in beaten egg1 rolled in bread-crumbs1 and then fried in hot fat4 7,see ,frying47 ,boiled4--,clean and prepare the fish as directed1 and put it in a fish-kettle2 cover it with cold water 7sea-water is the best72 add the following seasonings to a pound of fish3 two stalks of parsley1 one of tarragon if handy1 one tablespoonful of vinegar1 and half a middling-sized onion sliced2 salt if boiled in fresh water4 ,set on the fire1 and1 for a fish weighing two pounds or under1 take off at the first boiling--it is done enough4 ,for a fish weighing five pounds1 boil five minutes1 etc41 that is1 about one minute for each pound4 ,if it were a thick slice of fish instead of a whole one1 weighing two or three pounds1 it should be boiled two or three minutes longer1 etc41 according to thickness4 ,broiled4--,slit the fish on the back and clean it2 salt and pepper it2 have a little melted butter and spread it all over the fish1 on both sides1 with a brush1 and broil it4 7,see ,broiling47 ,while the fish is broiling1 prepare a maitre d'hotel sauce1 spread it on the fish as soon as dished1 and serve4 ,it may also be served with anchovy butter4 ,fried4--,any small fish of the size of a smelt1 or smaller1 is better fried than prepared in any other way4 ,clean and prepare the fish as directed1 wipe it dry4 ,dip it in milk1 place in a colander for five minutes1 then roll in flour1 and fry4 ,it may also be fried just rolled in flour4 ,another way4--,when wiped dry1 dip in beaten egg1 roll in bread-crumbs1 and fry4 ,another4--,when wiped dry1 dip the fish in butter1 and fry4 ,then the fish is dropped in hot fat 7see ,frying71 turned into a colander1 salted1 and served hot1 with fried parsley around or in the middle1 according to how the fish is arranged in the dish4 ,fry the following as above3 carp1 tench1 frost1 bass1 perch1 black and blue fish1 gold1 loach1 mullet1 porgy1 weak1 flounder1 pike1 pickerel1 smelt1 sun1 herring1 and white-fish of the lakes4 ,a la ,orly4--,if it is small fish1 like the smelt1 it is prepared whole2 if the fish is larger1 it must be boned and skinned1 and cut in pieces about two inches long4 ,roll the fish1 or pieces of fish1 slightly in flour2 dip it in beaten egg1 and roll it again in bread-crumbs2 then fry it in hot fat as above4 ,when fried1 serve it with a tomato-sauce4 ,the fish may be served on a napkin in a dish1 and the sauce in a boat or saucer4 ,roasted4--,the following fishes only are roasted3 eel1 salmon1 shad1 pike1 turbot4 ,clean and prepare as directed1 and then tie with twine4 ,spread salt1 pepper1 and melted butter 7with a brush7 all over the fish1 and then envelop it in buttered paper2 set on the spit and roast4 ,baste with a little melted butter1 and remove the paper about five minutes before it is done4 ,when on the dish the twine is cut off and removed1 and it is served as hot as possible with the following sauces1 to which tarragon is added in making them1 if handy3 caper1 ,hollandaise1 ,mayonnaise1 piquante1 poivrade1 and remolade4 ,a roast fish is served after roast meat4 ,another way4--,clean1 and cut in slices half an inch thick1 or leave entire1 as it suits you2 skin it well2 lay it in a crockery vessel1 spread over it some chopped parsley1 grated nutmeg1 salt1 pepper1 and two gills of white wine 7this is for about three pounds71 leave thus two hours2 then take the fish only1 envelop it in buttered paper1 fix it on the spit before a good fire1 baste with the wine and seasonings from the crockery dish1 and when nearly done take the paper off2 finish the cooking1 basting the while1 and serve with the drippings1 to which you may add a little vinegar1 sweet-oil1 and mustard4 ,if there is any left1 you can serve it cold the next day with an oil-sauce4 ,saute4--,scale1 clean1 and prepare the fish as directed4 ,for one pound of fish put about one ounce of butter in a frying-pan on the fire1 and when melted put the fish in2 fry it on both sides1 and serve it with a maitre d'hotel4 ,stewed4--,clean and prepare as directed three pounds of fish1 cut it in pieces about two inches long4 ,put in a fish-kettle four ounces of butter1 kneaded with a teaspoonful of flour1 and the same of chopped parsley1 add two or three mushrooms cut in pieces1 salt and pepper1 then the fish and a glass of claret wine1 or a wine-glass of vinegar2 cover with water1 set on a good fire1 boil gently till cooked2 dish the pieces of fish1 strain the sauce on them1 spread the pieces of mushrooms over1 and serve4 ,stuffed4--,when cleansed1 cut out the backbone from the head to within two inches of the tail1 and fill its place with the following mixture3 soak stale bread in cold water and then squeeze the water out2 put one ounce of butter into a saucepan and set it on the fire2 as soon as melted1 fry in it one middle-sized onion1 chopped fine2 then add the bread2 stir for two minutes1 add also salt1 pepper1 a pinch of nutmeg1 two or three tablespoonfuls of broth2 stir again two or three minutes2 take the pan from the fire1 add a yolk of egg1 put back on the fire for half a minute1 stirring the while1 take off again1 add a teaspoonful of chopped parsley1 and use4 ,when full1 tie the fish with twine2 place it in a baking-pan1 salt and pepper it2 spread a little butter on it also2 cover the bottom of the pan with cold water1 bake and serve with its gravy4 ,if there is not gravy enough1 or if it has dried away1 add a little broth a few minutes before taking from the oven4 ,fish au ,gratin4--,bone and skin the fish as directed4 ,for a fish weighing about two pounds1 spread one ounce of butter on a tin plate or baking-pan1 spread over it half an onion1 chopped2 place the pieces of fish on them2 add salt1 pepper1 a tablespoonful of vinegar or a wine-glass of white wine1 and half an ounce of butter2 spread over and bake4 ,while it is baking1 put in a small saucepan one ounce of butter1 and set it on the fire2 when melted1 add half a tablespoonful of flour1 stir1 and1 when it is turning yellow1 add also about one gill of broth1 two tablespoonfuls of meat-gravy1 the juice of the fish when baked 7if the fish be not done when the time comes to put the juice in the pan1 keep the pan in a warm place1 and wait71 salt1 and pepper2 boil gently about five minutes1 stirring occasionally4 ,place the fish in a tin or silver dish1 spread three or four mushrooms sliced over it2 turn the sauce gently over the whole1 dust with bread-crumbs2 put half an ounce of butter1 in four or five pieces1 on the whole2 bake ten or twelve minutes1 and serve in the dish in which it is4 ,in ,matelote4--,every kind of fish is good in matelote1 but the following are the best3 bass1 black-fish1 blue-fish1 carp1 eel1 perch1 pickerel1 pike1 porgy1 tench1 trout1 and craw-fish4 ,a matelote may be made of eels alone1 but it is better with eels and one1 two1 or three other kinds of fish4 ,eels tasting of mud are not good4 ,there is a sure way of taking away the muddy taste1 but it is a rather expensive one4 ,boil them a few minutes in claret wine and a little salt1 before using them4 ,clean1 and prepare as directed1 one pound of eels1 one pound of pike1 and one pound of trout1 or one pound of any of the fishes named above--in all1 three pounds4 ,cut the fish in pieces about two inches long1 fry it slightly with a little butter1 and put it away for awhile4 ,put four ounces of butter in a saucepan and set it on the fire2 when melted1 add two tablespoonfuls of flour1 stir1 and1 when the flour is turning rather brown1 add also about a quart of broth1 a pint of claret1 a bunch of seasonings1 composed of half a dozen stalks of parsley1 two of thyme1 two bay-leaves1 and two cloves1 also salt1 pepper1 two cloves of garlic1 and six button onions2 boil gently for about half an hour4 ,then put the fish in with from six to twelve mushrooms1 broth enough to cover the whole1 if the broth and wine already in do not cover it2 boil gently for about half an hour1 or till the fish is cooked1 tossing the saucepan now and then2 dish the fish2 place the mushrooms and onions all over2 sprinkle the sauce over it through a strainer1 and serve warm4 ,croutons may be served around4 ,another1 or ,mariniere4--,prepare and cut the fish as for the above1 but instead of frying it put it in a saucepan1 into which you have put previously about half a dozen sprigs of parsley1 two of thyme1 two bay-leaves1 two cloves of garlic1 twelve small onions1 two cloves1 salt1 and pepper2 when the fish is placed over the above seasonings1 cover entirely with claret wine4 ,set the saucepan on a sharp fire1 and1 as soon as it boils1 throw into it a glass of ,french brandy1 set it on fire1 and let it burn4 ,it will not burn very long1 but enough to give a good taste to it4 ,as soon as it stops burning1 knead four ounces of butter with a tablespoonful of flour1 and put it in the pan2 toss the pan gently now and then till done4 ,it takes about forty minutes with a good fire4 ,when done1 dish the fish carefully1 place the mushrooms all over it1 the onions all around1 strain the sauce over the whole1 and serve warm4 ,croutons may also be served with the rest2 put around the fish one crouton1 then an onion1 and so on1 all around4 ,another4--,proceed as for the above1 in every particular1 except that you cover the fish and seasonings with broth and white wine1 half of each1 instead of claret4 ,serve in the same way4 ,a matelote may be made three or four days in advance1 and then warmed in boiling water 7bain-marie7 just before serving it4 ,many prefer a matelote made four days before eating it1 and prepared in the following way3 ,when made1 put it away to cool as quickly as possible2 twenty-four hours after that1 warm it in boiling water2 cool1 and warm again in the same way once a day4 ,if the sauce becomes thick1 add a little broth4 ,serve warm4 ,vinaigrette4--,boil a fish as directed1 take it from the kettle and let cool2 then dish it4 ,chop fine the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs2 do the same with the two whites2 chop also a handful of parsley4 ,put a string of the yolks on both sides of the fish1 then along that a string of the whites1 and along these a string of the parsley2 along the parsley1 and about half an inch apart1 a string of capers4 ,cut a lemon in sixteen slices1 and in the following way3 first split the lemon in two lengthwise1 then split again each half in two and lengthwise also2 by splitting four times1 you have sixteen pieces1 resembling somewhat the carpels of oranges4 ,after the first splitting1 hold the piece of lemon with the nail of the left thumb1 the rind downward1 and always split lengthwise and in the middle4 ,place eight pieces on each side of the dish and along the capers1 and serve cold1 with stalks of parsley on top of the fish1 and also two or three in its mouth4 ,serve with it a vinaigrette1 in a saucer or boat4 ,the following fishes1 bass1 black and blue fish1 carp1 cat1 dory1 drum1 gar1 gurnard1 herring1 king1 lump1 mackerel1 parr1 perch1 pickerel1 pike1 pilot1 porgy1 roach1 rock1 scup1 sucker1 sword1 tautog1 tench1 trout1 troutlet1 weak1 and weaver1 after being baked or boiled as directed1 may be served with the following sauces3 anchovy1 caper1 genevoise1 genoise1 au gratin1 ,hollandaise1 ,italienne1 matelote1 tomato1 ,tartar1 and vinaigrette4 ,it would be perfectly useless to have a receipt for each fish1 since the preparation is the same4 ,the same fishes are also prepared au court bouillon4 ,clean and prepare about three pounds of fish1 as directed for baking1 etc4 ,it may be one fish or several1 according to size4 ,place the fish in a fish-kettle1 just cover it with cold water and a gill of vinegar1 or with half water and half white wine2 season with three or four sprigs of parsley1 one of thyme1 a bay-leaf1 one clove1 one onion1 half a carrot 7in slices71 two cloves of garlic1 salt1 pepper1 and a little tarragon1 if handy4 ,set on the fire1 and boil gently till done4 ,dish the fish1 and serve it warm with a caper or anchovy sauce in a boat1 or with currant jelly4 ,the same--a la ,bretonne4--,slit the fish on the back1 as for broiling1 and clean it4 ,when wiped dry1 lay it in a bake-pan in which there is a little melted butter1 the inside of the fish under2 place thus on a good fire1 turn over when done on one side1 and1 when cooked1 spread some maitre d'hotel on it1 and serve warm4 ,the same--aux fines herbes4--,clean and prepare as for baking1 etc41 and also improve it as directed4 ,envelop the fish in buttered paper1 and also the seasonings in which it has been improved1 except the thyme and bay-leaves1 broil it1 and serve with piquante sauce4 ,cod-fish1 cusk1 haddock1 hake1 halibut1 pollack1 and torsk1 after being baked or boiled as directed1 are served with the following sauces3 ,anchovy1 ,bechamel1 caper1 cream1 egg1 ,hollandaise1 maitre d'hotel1 tomato1 vinaigrette4 ,,eel1 ,,conger1 ,,and ,,lamprey4 ,to clean4--,when skinned1 clean1 head1 and tail them4 ,then throw them in boiling water1 in which you have put a little salt and a teaspoonful of vinegar2 leave them in it about five minutes1 take out1 and drain4 ,broiled4--,clean and cut two pounds of eel1 or of either of the others1 in pieces about three inches long4 ,put in a stewpan a piece of butter the size of an egg1 and set it on the fire2 when hot1 lay the eels in1 fry about three minutes1 turning them over the while2 then turn the whole into a crockery vessel1 add a teaspoonful of chopped parsley and onions1 a pinch of grated nutmeg1 a tablespoonful of sweet-oil1 salt1 and pepper2 set on the fire and simmer two hours2 take off1 roll the pieces in fine bread-crumbs1 place them on a gridiron1 and on a good fire1 and serve when done with piquante sauce4 ,from the nature of their flesh1 eels require to be prepared thus2 and1 when properly done1 make really a very good dish4 ,roasted4--,prepare the eels as for broiling1 and1 instead of placing on the gridiron1 envelop them in oiled paper and roast before a sharp fire4 ,serve with piquante1 ravigote1 or ,tartar sauce4 ,fried4--,prepare as for broiling as far as rolling in bread-crumbs1 then dip in beaten-egg1 roll in bread-crumbs again1 and fry4 7,see ,frying47 ,serve with tomato-sauce1 or just as it is4 ,in ,maitre d'hotel4--,clean as directed1 but boil twenty minutes instead of five4 ,serve with a maitre d'hotel sauce and steamed potatoes1 or with muscle1 oyster1 shrimp1 or ,tartar sauce4 ,in ,matelote4--7,see ,fish in ,matelote47 ,stuffed4--,clean as directed2 stuff it with currant jelly1 bake or roast1 and serve with currant jelly4 ,flounder 7wrongly called sole2 the flounder is as good as the sole--the soles that may be found here are imported from ,europe or from ,newfoundland71 dab-fish1 and plaice1 after being baked or boiled1 may be served with the following sauces3 ,allemande1 anchovy1 anchovy-butter1 ,mayonnaise1 tomato1 and au gratin4 ,baked4--,clean three pounds of the above fish4 ,put in a crockery dish four ounces of butter1 set it on a good fire1 and when melted sprinkle in it a teaspoonful of flour1 stirring the while2 also1 a pinch of grated nutmeg1 salt1 pepper1 a saltspoonful of chopped parsley1 two or three mushrooms1 also chopped1 then the fish2 pour on it a glass of white wine1 and a liquor-glass of ,french brandy2 cover the dish1 take it from the fire1 and put it in a moderately heated oven1 and serve when done just as it is1 and in the crockery dish4 ,a la ,normande4--,bone and skin the fish as directed4 ,for a fish weighing four pounds1 spread two ounces of butter on the bottom of a baking-pan2 spread one onion1 chopped fine1 over the butter1 and as much carrot1 cut in small dice4 ,place the fish over the whole1 the pieces as they are1 or cut according to the size of the pan1 salt and pepper1 and bake4 ,take from the oven when done and dish the fish1 leaving the juice in the pan2 cut the stems of about a dozen mushrooms2 place the heads on the middle of the fish1 and the stems around it4 ,mix cold a tablespoonful of flour and the same of butter in a saucepan1 turn into it a pint of broth1 set on the fire and stir continually2 when thoroughly mixed1 turn into it also1 and through a strainer1 the juice from the pan in which the fish has baked2 stir again two or three minutes2 turn gently over the fish1 put in the oven for about ten minutes1 and serve hot4 ,croutons may be placed around the dish as a decoration4 ,another ,normande4--,bone and skin the fish as directed2 butter well the dish on which the fish is to be served1 spread some chopped onion all over1 then place the fish over it2 sprinkle salt1 pepper1 and white wine or vinegar 7a tablespoonful to a pound of fish71 all over the fish1 and bake it4 ,it takes about fifteen minutes for a fish weighing two or three pounds4 ,wine is better than vinegar4 ,while the fish is baking1 set a saucepan on the fire with an ounce of butter in it1 and when melted1 add half a tablespoonful of flour2 stir1 and when turning yellow1 add also half a pint of broth or water1 salt1 then the juice from the fish when baked1 stir1 give one boil1 and turn over the fish4 ,blanch a dozen or so of oysters1 place them all over the fish also4 ,have ready two or three potatoes1 cut with a round vegetable spoon2 boil till done2 place them around the fish as a border for it2 dust then the whole with bread-crumbs1 put in a warm oven for about fifteen minutes1 take off1 place half a dozen croutons all around the dish also1 and serve4 ,the croutons are generally cut of a heart-shape4 ,it will be easily done if the directions are followed properly and carefully4 ,commence by cutting the bread1 then cut the potatoes1 and set them on the fire with cold water and salt2 while they are cooking1 prepare the fish and set it in the oven2 while this is baking1 make the sauce1 fry the croutons1 and blanch the oysters4 ,if the fish is baked before the rest are ready1 take it off and keep warm till wanted4 ,it makes a sightly and excellent dish4 ,the same fried4--,small flounders are fried like other small fish1 and served either with or without a tomato-sauce or a la ,orly4 ,the same1 boned and fried4--,bone and skin small flounders as directed2 mix together a tablespoonful of oil1 a teaspoonful of chopped parsley1 the juice of half a lemon1 and salt2 dip the pieces of fish in the mixture1 dust them slightly with flour1 and fry4 ,serve hot4 ,pike1 ,pickerel1 and ,trout or ,troutlet4--,those three fish1 besides being prepared as directed for bass1 etc41 and in all its different ways1 they are boiled as directed and served warm1 with a genoise sauce4 ,a more delicious dish of fish can hardly be prepared4 ,ray1 ,skate1 and ,angel or ,monk fish4--,ray1 though excellent1 is very little known2 there is only one place at which it can be bought--,washington ,market1 ,new ,york4 ,it is unquestionably an excellent dish1 prepared au beurre noir4 ,when clean1 boil the fish as directed1 and dish it1 sprinkling salt and pepper on it4 ,while it is boiling1 put about two ounces of butter to a pound of fish in a frying-pan1 set it on a sharp fire1 stir now and then1 and when brown1 throw into it about six sprigs of parsley1 which you take off immediately with a skimmer4 ,as soon as the parsley is taken off1 pour the butter over the fish1 quickly put two tablespoonfuls of vinegar in the frying-pan and over the fire1 give one boil1 and pour also over the fish4 ,frying the parsley and boiling the vinegar cannot be done too fast1 as the fish must be served very warm4 ,the warmer it is served1 the better it is4 ,salmon1 sturgeon1 and white-fish1 after being baked or boiled1 may be served with a caper1 and also with a ,mayonnaise sauce4 ,they may also be served in court bouillon1 like bass4 ,they are broiled whole1 or in slices1 and served with a maitre d'hotel or a caper sauce4 ,the same in ,fricandeau4--,cut the fish in slices about half an inch thick1 and place them in a saucepan with slices of fat salt pork1 carrots and onions under them2 set on a good fire2 ten minutes after1 add a little broth1 just enough to cover the bottom of the pan2 after about five minutes1 turn the slices over2 finish the cooking and serve with the gravy strained over the fish1 or with a tomato-sauce4 ,the same in ,papillotes4--,fry slices of salmon with a little butter1 and until of a golden color2 take them from the fire4 ,while they are frying1 mix well together parsley chopped fine1 salt1 pepper1 melted butter1 grated nutmeg1 and a little lemon-juice2 spread some of the mixture on both sides of the slices of fish1 envelop them in buttered or oiled paper2 broil1 and serve them hot4 ,some mushrooms or truffles1 or both1 and chopped1 may be added to the mixture4 ,the same a la ,genevoise4--,put in a saucepan a thick slice of salmon--from five to six pounds2 just cover it with broth and claret wine--half of each2 season with a bunch of seasonings composed of six or eight sprigs of parsley1 two of thyme1 two bay-leaves1 two cloves1 and two cloves of garlic1 salt1 a few slices of carrot1 and a small green onion1 or a shallot1 if handy4 ,boil gently till nearly done1 when add about a dozen mushrooms1 and keep boiling till done2 dish the fish1 and put it in a warm but not hot place2 mix cold1 in a saucepan1 four ounces of butter with about two ounces of flour2 turn over it1 through a strainer1 the liquor in which the fish has been cooked1 and set on a sharp fire2 after about three minutes1 during which you have stirred with a wooden spoon1 add the mushrooms2 stir again for about two minutes1 turn over the fish1 and serve warm4 ,the same in ,salad4--,boil1 as directed for fish1 some thin slices of salmon1 drain1 and serve cold1 on a napkin and on a dish4 ,serve with it1 and in a boat1 the following3 half a teaspoonful of salt1 a pinch of pepper1 two tablespoonfuls of vinegar1 four of sweet oil1 a pickled cucumber chopped fine1 two hard-boiled eggs1 chopped fine also1 two or three anchovies1 and a tablespoonful of capers2 the anchovies may be chopped fine or pounded4 ,beat the whole well and serve4 ,the same in ,scallops4--,cut it in round slices1 about one-eighth of an inch in thickness2 fry them with butter1 and serve4 ,the pieces should be tastefully arranged on a dish1 imitating a flight of stairs4 ,broiled4--,cut it in rather thin slices1 butter both sides with a brush2 broil1 and serve with a maitre d'hotel4 ,shad and sheep's-head1 after being baked or boiled1 are served with an anchovy1 caper1 or tomato sauce4 ,they are also served cold1 a la vinaigrette4 ,broiled4--,when cleaned and prepared1 salt1 pepper1 and butter it2 broil and serve it with a maitre d'hotel4 ,it may be stuffed as directed for fish4 ,in ,provencale4--,clean1 prepare1 and cut the fish in pieces about two inches long2 put about three pounds of it in a saucepan1 with a pint of claret2 six stalks of parsley1 a small onion1 a clove of garlic1 and six mushrooms1 all chopped fine2 boil till done1 when add four ounces of butter1 and two of flour1 well kneaded together2 boil three minutes longer1 and serve warm4 ,another way1 or a la ,chambord4--,stuff the fish with sausage-meat1 envelop it in a towel1 boil1 and serve it with a tomato-sauce4 ,the same with ,sorrel4--,broil the fish1 and serve it on a puree of sorrel or of spinach4 ,it may also be prepared au court bouillon1 a la ,bretonne1 and aux fines herbes1 like bass1 etc4 ,sheep's-head may also be prepared like turbot4 ,au ,gratin4--,the shad1 after being cleaned1 but not split on the back 7as is too often the case1 to the shame of the fishmongers who begin by spoiling the fish under the pretence of cleaning it71 is placed in a bake-pan1 having butter1 chopped parsley1 mushroom1 salt1 and pepper1 both under and above the fish4 ,for a fish weighing three pounds1 add one gill of broth and half as much of white wine2 dust the fish with bread-crumbs1 and set in a pretty quick oven4 ,fifteen minutes afterward1 examine it4 ,when done1 the fish is dished1 a little broth is put in the pan1 which is placed on a sharp fire2 stir with a spoon or fork so as to detach the bread1 etc41 that may stick to the pan1 then pour this over the fish1 and serve warm4 ,the gravy must be reduced to two or three tablespoonfuls only1 for a fish weighing about two pounds4 ,the fish must be dished carefully in order not to break it4 ,sterlet4--,this is a fish of the sturgeon family1 very plentiful in the ,caspian ,sea and in many ,russian rivers1 principally in the ,neva and in ,lake ,ladoga4 ,tunny and bonito1 after being boiled1 are served cold in vinaigrette4 ,turbot and ,whiff4--,turbot is among fishes what pheasant is among birds4 ,rub it with lemon before cooking it4 ,after being boiled or baked1 as directed1 it is served with the following sauces3 ,bechamel1 cream1 caper1 ,hollandaise1 ,mayonnaise1 tomato1 and in vinaigrette4 ,it is also served au court-bouillon and aux fines herbes like bass4 ,au ,gratin4--,it is prepared and served like shad au gratin4 ,it is also broiled and served with a maitre d'hotel4 ,bordelaise4--,bone and skin the fish as directed2 dip each piece in melted butter1 then in beaten egg1 roll in bread-crumbs and broil4 ,while it is broiling on a rather slow fire1 turn it over several times and keep basting with melted butter2 the more butter it absorbs the better the fish4 ,when broiled1 serve the slices on a dish and place some boiled craw-fish all around and in the middle4 ,a dish of steamed potatoes is served with it4 ,the following sauce is also served at the same time3 ,chop fine and fry till half done1 with a little butter1 two small green onions or four shallots4 ,put half a pint of good meat-gravy in a small saucepan2 set on the fire1 and as soon as it commences to boil1 pour into it1 little by little1 stirring the while with a wooden spoon1 about a gill of ,bordeaux wine1 then the onions or shallots1 and also a piece of beef marrow chopped fine2 give one boil1 and serve in a saucer4 ,in ,salad4--,proceed as for salmon in salad4 ,when boiled1 serve the turbot with anchovy-butter1 lobster-butter1 lobster-sauce1 or muscle-sauce4 ,cold4--,any cold piece of turbot is served with a ,mayonnaise sauce1 or in vinaigrette4 ,cold ,fish4--,if the fish is with sauce1 that is1 if the sauce is in the same dish with the fish1 warm it in the bain-marie1 and serve warm4 ,any other piece of cold fish1 baked1 boiled1 broiled1 or roasted1 is served with a ,mayonnaise sauce1 or with a vinaigrette4 ,any kind of cold fish may be prepared in salad4 ,slice the fish or cut it in pieces and put it in the salad-dish with hard-boiled egg sliced1 onion and parsley chopped fine1 salt1 pepper1 vinegar1 and oil4 ,mix the whole gently and well1 and serve4 ,anchovy4--,it is imported preserved4 ,it is used as a hors-d'oeuvre1 to decorate or season4 ,the essence of anchovy is used for sauce4 ,the smallest are considered the best4 ,to serve as a hors d'oeuvre1 wash1 wipe dry1 and remove the backbone1 serve with tarragon or parsley1 chopped fine1 vinegar1 and oil4 ,they may also be served with hard-boiled eggs1 chopped or quartered4 ,sprats4--,there are none in or near ,american waters2 they are imported under their ,french name1 sardines4 ,fresh sprats are very good boiled without any grease1 and without being cleaned and prepared like other fish2 but when on the plate1 skin them1 which is easily done1 as then the flesh is so easily detached from the bones that the inside need not be touched at all2 they are eaten with salt and pepper only4 ,sardines are served as a hors-d'oeuvre1 with oil and lemon-juice1 and properly scaled4 ,they are arranged on the dish according to fancy1 together with lemon in slices4 ,salt ,cod--to prepare4--,soak it in cold water for two days1 changing the water two or three times2 then scale it well and clean4 ,lay it in a fish-kettle1 cover with cold water1 set on a rather slow fire1 skim off the scum1 let it boil about one minute1 take the kettle from the fire1 cover it well1 and leave thus ten minutes2 then take off the cod1 and drain it4 ,in ,bechamel4--,prepare it as above1 and serve with a bechamel sauce1 and as warm as possible4 ,with a ,cream-,sauce4--,prepare as above1 and serve either warm or cold with a cream-sauce4 ,in ,brown ,butter4--,when prepared as above1 place it on a dish1 and keep it in a warm place4 ,put four ounces of butter in a frying-pan1 and on a good fire2 when turning brown1 add three sprigs of parsley1 fry about two minutes1 pour the whole on the fish1 and serve4 ,you may also pour on it a hot caper-sauce1 and serve4 ,with ,croutons4--,prepare and cook as directed1 three pounds of cod2 take the bones out1 break in small pieces1 and mash with the hand as much as possible2 put it then in a stewpan1 beat three yolks of eggs with two tablespoonfuls of cream1 and mix with the cod2 set on a slow fire1 and immediately pour in1 little by little1 stirring the while1 about one gill of sweet oil2 simmer ten or twelve minutes1 and serve with croutons around4 ,in ,maitre d',hotel4--,lay three pounds of cod on a dish1 after being cooked as directed2 keep it warm1 spread a maitre d'hotel sauce on it1 and serve4 ,with ,potatoes4--,prepare about three pounds of cod as directed above4 ,lay the fish on a dish2 have a piquante sauce ready1 turn it over it1 and serve with steamed potatoes all around the dish4 ,the potatoes may also be served separately4 ,in ,vinaigrette4--,prepare as directed1 and when cold1 serve with a vinaigrette4 ,with ,cheese4--,prepare the cod as directed1 then dip it in lukewarm butter1 roll it in grated cheese1 lay it in a baking-pan1 dust slightly with bread-crumbs2 bake1 and serve warm4 ,two or three minutes in a quick oven will be sufficient4 ,au ,gratin4--,when soaked only and wiped dry1 but not boiled1 prepare it as directed for fish au gratin4 ,with ,caper-,sauce4--,prepare it as directed1 and serve warm with caper-sauce4 ,salt ,salmon4--,soak it in cold water for some time1 the length of time to be according to the saltness of the fish2 scale and clean it well1 lay it in a fish-kettle1 cover it with cold water1 and set it on a moderate fire4 ,boil gently about two minutes1 skim off the scum1 take from the kettle and drain it4 ,put butter in a frying-pan and set it on the fire2 when it turns rather brown1 put a few sprigs of parsley in it1 and immediately pour it over the fish in the dish2 add a few drops of lemon-juice all over1 and serve warm4 ,it may also be served with a caper or maitre d'hotel sauce2 or1 when cold1 serve a la vinaigrette4 ,salt salmon is also served like salt cod-fish4 ,it may also be served on a puree of celery or of onion4 ,smoked ,salmon4--,cut it in thin slices2 have very hot butter or oil in a frying-pan1 and lay the slices in only long enough to warm them2 then take out1 drain them1 and serve with a few drops of lemon-juice or vinegar sprinkled on them4 ,tunny4--,this is not a good fish fresh2 it is generally preserved1 and served as a hors-d'oeuvre4 ,it comes from ,holland1 ,italy1 and the south of ,france4 ,fresh1 it is prepared like sturgeon4 ,that prepared in ,holland is the best4 ,the ,dutch cure fish better than any other nation4 ,when you serve tunny1 take it out of the bottle or jar and serve it on a small plate1 or on a dessert-plate4 ,a very small piece is served1 generally like every other hors-d'oeuvre4 ,salt ,herring4--,soak in cold or tepid water2 if soaked in tepid water1 it does not require as long2 the time must be according to the quality or saltness of the fish4 ,wipe dry1 broil1 and serve like salt mackerel4 ,another way4--,salt herring may also be soaked in half water and half milk1 or in milk only2 drain and wipe dry4 ,bone and skin1 cut off the head1 tail1 and fins1 and serve with oil1 vinegar1 and pickled cucumbers4 ,they are also served with slices of sour apples1 or slices of onions1 after being soaked and wiped dry4 ,they may also be broiled slightly and served with oil only1 after being soaked1 or served with sour grape-juice4 ,salt ,pike4--,it is prepared and served the same as salt herring2 so is pickled trout4 ,red ,herring4--,wipe or skin them1 they are not as good when washed2 cut off the head and tail1 split the back open1 lay them on a warm and well-greased gridiron1 set on a slow fire2 spread some butter or oil on them1 turn over1 do the same on the other side2 broil very little1 and serve with a vinaigrette and mustard to taste4 ,another way4--,clean and split them as above1 soak them in lukewarm water for two hours2 take out1 drain1 and wipe dry4 ,mix two or three yolks of eggs with a teaspoonful of chopped parsley1 salt1 pepper1 and a little melted butter2 put some of the mixture around every herring1 then roll them in fine bread-crumbs1 place them on a gridiron on a slow fire3 and when lightly broiled1 serve as the preceding one4 ,red herring may also be broiled with bread-crumbs like salt herring4 ,it is also served as a hors-d'oeuvre1 cut in slices4 ,salt ,mackerel broiled4--,if the fish be too salt1 soak it for a while in lukewarm water1 take off and wipe dry4 ,have a little melted fat or lard1 dip a brush in it and grease slightly both sides of the fish2 place on or inside of the gridiron1 the bars of which must also be greased2 set on1 or before1 or under a pretty sharp fire2 broil both sides2 dish the fish1 the skin under2 spread butter on it2 also parsley chopped fine1 and serve4 ,lemon-juice may be added if liked1 or a few drops of vinegar4 ,when broiled and dished1 spread a maitre d'hotel on it1 and serve4 ,another way4--,when soaked and wiped dry1 dip in melted butter1 again in beaten eggs1 and roll in bread-crumbs4 ,broil and serve with parsley and lemon-juice1 or with a maitre d'hotel4 ,,frogs4 ,the hind-legs of frogs only are used as food2 formerly they were eaten by the ,french only1 but now1 frog-eating has become general1 and the ,americans are not behind any others in relishing that kind of food4 ,fried4--,skin well1 and throw into boiling water with a little salt1 for five minutes1 the hind-legs only2 take out and throw them in cold water to cool1 and drain4 ,have hot fat in a pan on the fire 7see ,directions for ,frying72 lay the frogs in1 and serve when done with fried parsley around4 ,stewed4--,skin1 boil five minutes1 throw in cold water1 and drain as above4 ,put in a stewpan two ounces of butter 7for two dozen frogs72 set it on the fire1 and when melted1 lay the legs in1 fry two minutes1 tossing now and then2 then sprinkle on them a teaspoonful of flour1 stir with a wooden spoon1 add two sprigs of parsley1 one of thyme1 a bay-leaf1 two cloves1 one of garlic1 salt1 white pepper1 and half a pint of white wine2 boil gently till done1 dish the legs1 reduce the sauce on the fire1 strain it1 mix in it two yolks of eggs1 pour on the legs1 and serve them4 ,,lobster4 ,never buy a dead lobster4 ,large lobsters are not as good as small ones4 ,from about one to two pounds and a half in weight are the best4 ,the heavier the better4 ,lobsters are better at some seasons of the year than at others4 ,they are inferior when full of eggs4 ,it is from mere prejudice that the liver 7also called tomalley7 is eschewed4 ,this prejudice may come from its turning green on boiling the lobster4 ,use every thing but the stomach and the black of bluish vein running along its back and tail4 ,boil your lobsters yourself2 because1 if you buy them already boiled1 you do not know if they were alive when put in the kettle4 ,a lobster boiled after being dead is watery1 soft1 and not full2 besides being very unhealthy1 if not dangerous4 ,a lobster suffers less by being put in cold than in boiling water1 and the flesh is firmer when done4 ,in putting it in boiling water it is killed by the heat2 in cold water it is dead as soon as the water gets warm4 ,to boil44--,lay it in a fish-kettle2 just cover it with cold water1 cover the kettle1 and set it on a sharp fire4 ,it takes from fifteen to twenty-five minutes' boiling1 according to the size of the lobster4 ,when boiled1 take it from the kettle1 break it in two1 that is1 separate the body from the tail1 and place it in a colander to let the water drain4 ,in the shell4--,when the lobster is boiled1 divide it in two1 taking care not to break the body and large claws4 ,the tail is then split in two1 lengthwise1 the flesh taken off1 cut in small dice1 and mixed with the inside of the lobster4 ,the vein found immediately under the shell1 all along the flesh of the lobster1 is removed as soon as it is split4 ,the stomach1 found near the head1 is removed also and thrown away2 all the rest is good1 including the liver4 ,when the flesh and inside are properly mixed1 season with salt1 pepper1 vinegar1 oil1 mustard1 and chopped parsley4 ,place the body of the lobster on the middle of a dish1 the head up1 the two large claws stretched out1 and the two feelers stretched out also and fastened between the claws4 ,a sprig of parsley is put in each claw1 at the end of it1 in the small claws as well as in the two large ones4 ,then the two empty halves of the tail-piece are put around the body of the lobster1 the prepared flesh placed around them2 hard-boiled eggs cut in eight pieces each are placed around the dish1 tastefully arranged2 some slices of red1 pickled beets and cut with paste-cutters1 are placed between each piece of egg1 and serve4 ,it makes a simple1 good1 and very sightly dish4 ,half a dozen boiled craw-fish may be placed around the dish also2 it will add to the decoration4 ,two middling-sized lobsters prepared thus will fill a very large dish4 ,they should be placed back to back1 with only a few craw-fish between1 and the rest arranged as the above4 ,in ,salad4--,boil the lobster as directed2 break and drain it as directed also4 ,slice the flesh of the tail1 place it tastefully on a dish2 also the flesh from the two large claws1 which may be sliced or served whole4 ,lettuce1 or hard-boiled eggs1 or both1 may be arranged on the dish also1 and served with the following sauce3 ,put in a boat or saucer all the inside save the stomach1 with salt1 pepper1 vinegar1 oil1 mustard1 and chopped parsley1 to taste2 beat and mix the whole well together1 and serve4 ,in case there are eggs1 these are also to be mixed with the rest4 ,another4--,boil and drain as directed2 cut all the flesh in dice1 and put it in a bowl with the inside1 some lettuce cut rather fine1 salt1 pepper1 vinegar1 mustard1 and very little oil2 mix well1 and then put the mixture on a dish1 placing it like a mound on the middle of the dish2 spread a ,mayonnaise sauce over it2 decorate with the centre leaves of the lettuce1 some hard-boiled eggs cut in slices or in fancy shapes1 capers1 boiled or pickled red beets1 cut also in fancy shapes1 slices of lemon1 and serve4 ,anchovies1 olives1 pickled cucumbers1 or any other pickled fruit or vegetable may also be added4 ,a rose1 or two or three pinks1 may be placed right on the top1 as a decoration4 ,just before commencing to serve1 the rose may be put on a dessert plate and offered to a lady4 ,in ,coquilles1 or ,scalloped4--,it is boiled and then finished like oysters scalloped4 ,it may be served thus on scallop-shells1 on silver shells1 or on its own shell2 that is1 on the shell of the tail1 split in two lengthwise1 and trimmed according to fancy4 ,croquettes4--,lobster croquettes are made exactly like fish-balls1 and then fried according to directions for frying4 ,they are served warm4 ,it is an excellent dish for breakfast4 ,fried4--,to be fried1 the lobster must be bled2 separate the body from the tail1 then cut the tail in pieces1 making as many pieces as there are joints4 ,put these pieces in a frying-pan with two or three ounces of butter1 and one onion1 chopped fine2 set on a sharp fire1 stir now and then tin the whole is fried1 then add a bunch of seasoning composed of three sprigs of parsley1 one of thyme1 a bay-leaf1 and a clove2 salt1 pepper1 and three gills of ,madeira wine2 boil gently till reduced about half2 dish the pieces of lobster according to fancy2 add two or three tablespoonfuls of gravy to the sauce1 stir it1 give one boil1 and turn it over the lobster through a strainer2 serve warm4 ,another way4--,proceed as above in every particular1 except that you use ,sauterne or ,catawba wine instead of ,madeira1 and1 besides the seasonings1 add half a dozen mushrooms1 or two truffles1 or both4 ,dish the mushrooms and truffles with the lobster1 then finish and serve as the above4 ,craw-fish4--,these are found in most of the lakes1 brooks1 and rivers4 ,in some places they are called river-crabs1 or freshwater crabs4 ,they resemble the lobster1 and are often taken for young lobsters4 ,besides being a beautiful ornament and much used to decorate dishes1 they are excellent to eat and very light4 ,they are dressed and served like lobsters and crabs4 ,fishermen are sure to find a ready market for them1 though they are1 as yet1 very little known4 ,crabs4--,crabs are boiled like lobsters1 and may be served like lobster1 in salad4 ,they are often eaten1 only boiled1 without any seasonings4 ,like lobsters also1 to be good1 crabs must be put in the water alive4 ,when well washed and clean1 they may be prepared in the following way3 ,put them in a saucepan with slices of onions1 same of carrots1 parsley1 chives if handy1 thyme1 bay-leaves1 cloves1 salt1 and pepper-corns2 half cover them with white wine1 add butter1 set on a good fire1 and boil till done4 ,serve with parsley only4 ,the sauce may be used a second time by adding a little wine4 ,the soft-shell crab is blanched five minutes1 and fried like fish4 ,it may also be saute with a little butter1 and served with a maitre d'hotel4 ,broil it also1 and serve it with a maitre d'hotel4 ,muscles4--,these are unwholesome between ,april and ,september4 ,they must be heavy1 fresh1 and of a middling size4 ,the very large ones are really inferior4 ,soak them in water and wash well several times1 then drain4 ,in ,poulette4--,put them in a saucepan with a little parsley chopped fine1 and set them on a pretty good fire2 as soon as they are opened1 remove the shell to which they are not attached1 and keep them in a warm place4 ,for two quarts of muscles1 put two ounces of butter in the saucepan in which they have been cooked and in which you have left their liquor2 set on the fire1 stir1 and as soon as the butter is melted1 add and stir into it a tablespoonful of flour2 when turning a little yellow1 add also half a dozen pepper-corns1 then the muscles2 boil gently about ten minutes1 stirring occasionally2 take from the fire1 mix one or two yolks of eggs with it1 a little lemon-juice1 parsley chopped fine1 and serve warm4 ,another way4--,when clean1 put them in a saucepan with a few slices of carrot1 same of onion1 two or three stalks of parsley1 one of thyme1 a bay-leaf1 two cloves1 six pepper-corns1 and salt4 ,set on the fire1 and take the muscles from the pan as soon as they open1 then remove one shell2 put them back in the pan1 with as much white wine as there is liquor from the muscles2 boil gently about ten minutes1 add the yolk of an egg1 a little lemon-juice1 and dish the muscles2 drain the sauce over them1 add a little chopped parsley1 and serve warm4 ,fried4--,fry1 and serve the muscles like fried oysters4 ,they may also be served like scalloped oysters4 ,prawns and ,shrimps4--,wash1 boil in water and salt1 and serve4 ,they may be used1 like craw-fish1 to decorate fish after being boiled4 ,another way4--,wash well1 and put two quarts of them in a saucepan with four onions in slices1 two sprigs of parsley1 one of thyme1 a bay-leaf1 two cloves1 salt1 pepper1 half a pint of white wine1 and two ounces of butter1 just cover with water and set on a good fire2 when properly cooked1 drain1 and serve warm with green parsley all around4 ,the liquor may be used a second time4 ,,oysters4 ,the ,american oyster is unquestionably the best that can be found4 ,it varies in taste according to how it is treated1 either after being dredged or while embedded2 and also according to the nature of the soil and water in which they have lived4 ,it is very wrong to wash oysters4 ,we mean by washing oysters1 the abominable habit of throwing oysters in cold water1 as soon as opened1 and then sold by the measure4 ,it is more than a pity to thus spoil such an excellent and delicate article of food4 ,oysters1 like lobsters1 are not good when dead4 ,to ascertain if they are alive1 as soon as opened and when one of the shells is removed1 touch gently the edge of the oyster1 and1 if alive1 it will contract4 ,raw4--,when well washed1 open them1 detaching the upper shell1 then detach them from the under shell1 but leave them on it2 place on a dish1 and leave the upper shell on every oyster1 and serve thus4 ,to eat them1 you remove the upper shell1 sprinkle salt1 pepper1 and lemon-juice on1 and eat4 ,when raw oysters are served on a table1 at which there are gentlemen only1 some shallots1 chopped fine and gently bruised in a coarse towel1 are served with them1 on a separate dish4 ,the taste of the shallot agrees very well with that of the oyster4 ,a ,tartar sauce may be served instead of shallots4 ,to blanch4--,set the oysters and a little water on the fire in a saucepan1 take them off at the first boil1 skim off the scum from the top1 strain them1 and drop them in cold water4 ,the skimming1 straining1 and dropping in cold water must be done quickly--the quicker the better4 ,if allowed to stay in the warm water1 or out of water1 they get tough4 ,in dropping them in cold water1 see that they are free from pieces of shell2 take them with a fork if necessary4 ,as soon as in cold water they are ready for use1 but they must always be drained again before using them4 ,when the water used to blanch is employed in preparing them1 it is explained in the different receipts4 ,white wine may be used1 instead of water1 to blanch them1 according to taste4 ,fried4--,open the oysters1 and put them in a colander for about half an hour4 ,they must be as well drained as possible4 ,then dip them in egg and roll in bread-crumbs in the following way3 ,beat one or two1 or three1 eggs 7according to the quantity of oysters to be fried71 as for an omelet1 turn the oysters into the eggs and stir gently2 then take one after another1 roll in bread-crumbs2 place each one on your left hand1 in taking them from the crumbs1 and with the other hand press gently on it4 ,put them away in a cool place for about half an hour1 and then dip again in egg1 roll in bread-crumbs1 and press in the hand as before4 ,it is not indispensable to dip in egg and roll in crumbs a second time2 but the oysters are better1 and you are well repaid for the little extra work it requires4 ,while you are preparing them1 set some fat on the fire in a pan1 and when hot enough 7see ,frying7 drop the oysters in1 stir gently1 take off with a skimmer when fried1 turn into a colander1 add salt1 and serve hot4 ,roasted4--,place the oysters on a hot stove or range1 or on coals1 and as soon as they open take off1 remove one shell2 turn a little melted butter on each1 and serve4 ,there are several other ways4 ,when blanched1 they are served on toast1 a little gravy is added1 the toast placed on a dessert-plate1 and served thus4 ,broiled and roasted as above is the same thing4 ,oysters scalloped on their own shell1 and placed on the range instead of in the oven1 are also called broiled4 ,scalloped4--,place the oysters when thoroughly washed on a hot stove1 and as soon as they open remove one shell1 the flatter one of the two1 and take them from the fire4 ,sprinkle salt1 pepper1 chopped parsley1 and bread-crumbs on them2 place on each a piece of butter the size of a hazel-nut2 put in the oven about ten minutes1 and when done add a few drops of meat-gravy1 to each1 and serve hot4 ,another4--,put a quart of oysters and their liquor in a saucepan1 set it on the fire1 take off at the first boil1 and drain4 ,set a saucepan on the fire with two ounces of butter in it2 as soon as melted1 add a teaspoonful of flour1 stir1 and1 when turning rather brown1 add the juice of the oysters1 about a gill of gravy1 salt1 and pepper2 boil gently for about ten minutes1 stirring now and then4 ,while it is boiling1 place the oysters on scallop-shells1 or on silver shells made for that purpose1 two or three oysters on each1 turn some of the above sauce on each1 after it has boiled2 dust with bread-crumbs1 put a little piece of butter on each shell1 and bake for about twelve minutes in a warm oven4 ,a dozen silver shells served thus make a sightly and excellent dish4 ,some truffles1 chopped fine1 may be added to the sauce1 two minutes before taking it from the fire4 ,stewed4--,procure two quarts of good and fresh oysters4 ,set them on a sharp fire1 with their liquor and a little water1 and blanch as directed4 ,put four ounces of butter in a saucepan1 set on the fire1 and when melted stir into it a small tablespoonful of flour2 as soon as mixed1 add also a teaspoonful of parsley1 chopped fine1 and about half a pint of broth2 boil gently about ten minutes1 then add the oysters1 salt and pepper1 boil again about one minute1 dish the whole1 sprinkle lemon-juice on1 and serve4 ,an oyster soup is often called a stew4 ,in ,poulette4--,in adding chopped mushrooms to the stewed oysters1 at the same time that the oysters are put in the pan1 you make them in poulette4 ,a la ,washington4--,fried oysters are called a la ,washington1 when two1 three1 or four very large oysters are put together 7they adhere very easily71 dipped in egg1 rolled in bread-crumbs1 and fried1 as directed above4 ,it is necessary to have a deep pan1 and much fat1 to immerse them completely4 ,pickled oysters are always served as a hors d'oeuvre4 ,place around the oysters some hard-boiled eggs1 chopped fine1 and serve with oil and vinegar4 ,serve them in the same way1 with slices of truffles instead of hard-boiled eggs4 ,they may also be served with lemon-juice only4 ,or with shallots chopped fine1 and then bruised in a coarse towel4 ,this last one is considered of too strong a taste for ladies4 ,they are also served with a ,tartar sauce4 ,scallops4--,blanch the scallops for three minutes1 drain them4 ,put butter on the fire in a frying-pan1 and when melted turn the scallops in2 stir now and then1 take from the fire when fried1 add parsley chopped fine1 salt1 pepper1 and serve warm4 ,on the ,shell4--,chop fine a middling-sized onion1 and fry it with one ounce of butter4 ,while the onion is frying1 chop fine also one quart of scallops and put them with the onion2 stir for two or three minutes1 or till about half fried1 when turn the juice off1 put back on the fire1 and add one ounce of butter1 one gill of white wine1 stir for two or three minutes1 and if too thick add the juice you have turned off2 take from the fire1 and mix a yolk of egg with it1 add salt1 pepper1 nutmeg grated1 and parsley chopped fine4 ,have the scallop shells properly cleaned1 or silver shells1 spread the mixture on the shells2 dust with bread-crumbs1 put a piece of butter about the size of a hazel-nut on each1 and put in an oven1 at about #cbj deg4 ,fahr41 for from ten to fifteen minutes4 ,this is a dish for breakfast4 ,scallop1 scollop1 or escalop1 are one and the same fish4 ,,clams4 ,wash clean with a scrubbing-brush and put them in a kettle2 set on a good fire1 and leave till they are wide open2 then take from the kettle1 cut each in two or three pieces1 put them in a stewpan with all the water they have disgorged in the kettle1 and about four ounces of butter for fifty clams2 boil slowly about an hour1 take from the fire1 and mix with the whole two beaten eggs1 and serve warm4 ,clams are also eaten raw with vinegar1 salt1 and pepper4 ,chowder4--,this popular dish is made in a hundred different ways1 but the result is about the same4 ,it is generally admitted that boatmen prepare it better than others1 and the receipts we give below came from the most experienced chowder-men of the ,harlem ,river4 ,potatoes and crackers are used in different proportions1 the more used1 the thicker the chowder will be4 ,put in a pot 7technical name7 some small slices of fat salt pork1 enough to line the bottom of it2 on that1 a layer of potatoes1 cut in small pieces2 on the potatoes1 a layer of chopped onions2 on the onions1 a layer of tomatoes1 in slices1 or canned tomatoes2 on the latter a layer of clams1 whole or chopped 7they are generally chopped71 then a layer of crackers4 ,then repeat the process1 that is1 another layer of potatoes on that of the clams2 on this1 one of onions1 etc41 till the pot is nearly full4 ,every layer is seasoned with salt and pepper4 ,other spices are sometimes added according to taste2 such as thyme1 cloves1 bay-leaves1 and tarragon4 ,when the whole is in1 cover with water1 set on a slow fire1 and when nearly done1 stir gently1 finish cooking1 and serve4 ,as we remarked above1 the more potatoes that are used1 the thicker it will be4 ,when done1 if found too thin1 boil a little longer2 if found too thick1 add a little water1 give one boil1 and serve4 ,another way4--,proceed as above in every particular1 except that you omit the clams and crackers1 and when the rest is nearly cooked1 then add the chopped clams and broken crackers1 boil fast about twenty-five minutes longer1 and serve4 ,if found too thick or too thin1 proceed exactly as for the one above4 ,fish ,chowder4--,this is made exactly as clam chowder1 using fish instead of clams4 ,clam ,bake4--,this is how it is made by the ,harlem ,river clam-baker1 ,tom ,riley4 ,lay the clams on a rock1 edge downward1 and forming a circle1 cover them with fine brush2 cover the brush with dry sage2 cover the sage with larger brush2 set the whole on fire1 and when a little more than half burnt 7brush and sage71 look at the clams by pulling some out1 and if done enough1 brush the fire1 cinders1 etc41 off2 mix some tomato or cauliflower sauce1 or catsup1 with the clams 7minus their shells72 add butter and spices to taste1 and serve4 ,done on sand1 the clams1 in opening1 naturally allow the sand to get in1 and it is anything but pleasant for the teeth while eating them4 ,,beef4 ,,how ,,to ,,select4 ,see if the meat is fine1 of a clear red color1 with yellowish-white fat4 ,,cow ,,beef4 ,cow beef must also be of a clear red color1 but more pale than other beef2 the fat is white4 ,,bull ,,beef4 ,bull beef is never good2 you recognize it when you see hard and yellow fat2 the lean part is of a dirty-reddish color4 ,the rump piece is generally prepared a la mode4 ,for steaks1 the tenderloin and the piece called the porter-house steak1 are the best2 rump steaks are seldom tender4 ,the roasting or baking pieces are the tenderloin1 the fillet1 and some cuts of the ribs4 ,for soup1 every piece is good2 to make rich broth1 take pieces of the rump1 sucket1 round1 etc41 but every piece makes excellent broth1 and therefore excellent soup4 7,see ,broth47 ,a good piece of rib1 prepared like a fillet or tenderloin1 makes an excellent dish1 the bones and meat around them being used to make broth4 ,a ,,la ,,mode4 ,take from six to twelve pounds of rump and lard it4 ,to lard it you take a steel needle made for that purpose1 flat near the pointed end and much larger than an ordinary larding-needle4 ,it must be flat near the point in order to cut the meat so as to make room for the larger part of the needle to pass1 and also for the salt pork4 ,this needle is only used for beef a la mode4 ,cut the salt pork in square strips to fit the needle1 7see ,larding71 and proceed4 ,examine the piece of beef1 lard with the grain of the meat1 so that when it is carved the salt pork shall be cut across4 ,if the piece is too thick to run the strip of pork through1 so that both ends stick out1 lard one side first then the other4 ,we mean by one side first1 this3 to be easily handled1 the salt pork cannot be cut longer than about four inches2 as half an inch of it must stick out of the meat1 it leaves only three inches inside1 and if the piece of meat be six inches or more thick1 of course it would be impossible to have the strip of pork stick out on both sides2 therefore1 you lard one side first2 that is1 you run the needle through the meat1 leaving the salt pork stick out on the side you commence1 and when that side is larded1 do the same for the other4 ,you have then the salt pork sticking out on both sides of the meat and looking just as if the strips were running through the whole piece4 ,some like more salt pork than others in the beef2 the strips may be run thickly or thinly4 ,thirty strips may be run into three pounds of meat as well as half a dozen2 but about half a pound of salt pork to five pounds of beef is a pretty good proportion4 ,then take a saucepan of a proper size for the piece of meat2 it must not be too large or too small1 but large enough to hold the meat without being obliged to bend or fold it2 a crockery pan is certainly the best for that purpose1 and one that will go easily in the oven4 ,put in the saucepan1 for six pounds of beef1 half a calf's foot1 or a veal-bone if more handy1 two ounces of butter1 half a handful of parsley 7cives1 if handy71 two bay-leaves1 a clove of garlic1 a sprig of thyme1 two onions1 with a clove stuck in each1 salt1 pepper1 half a carrot cut in slices1 the rind of the salt pork you have used1 and what you may have left of strips2 the whole well spread on the bottom of the pan1 then the piece of meat over1 cover the pan1 set on a rather sharp fire and after about ten minutes add half a gill of water2 keep the pan covered to the end4 ,after another ten or fifteen minutes1 add about one pint of cold water1 turn the meat over1 and after about ten minutes more1 place the pan in the oven1 a rather slow oven 7a little above #bbj degrees ,fahr471 for five or six hours4 ,dish the meat1 skim off the fat on the top of the gravy1 give one boil and turn it over the meat and carrots through a strainer4 ,when the meat is dished2 put some carrots au jus all around2 serve warm4 ,cold4--,serve it whole or in slices1 with meat jelly1 or with a sharp sauce2 such as piquante1 ravigote1 etc4 ,,stewed4 ,stewed beef is called also daube or braised beef1 but it is the same4 ,it may be larded as beef a la mode1 or not2 it may be put whole in the pan or in large dice1 according to taste4 ,the following is for five or six pounds of rump or even a piece of ribs3 ,put in a saucepan two ounces of salt pork cut in dice1 four sprigs of parsley1 two of thyme1 two bay-leaves1 a clove of garlic1 a sprig of sweet basil1 two cloves1 three carrots cut in pieces1 salt1 and pepper2 put the piece of beef on the whole1 wet with a glass of broth1 and one of white wine 7a liquor-glass of ,french brandy may also be added72 season with six or eight small onions2 place in a moderately heated oven1 put paste around the cover to keep it air-tight2 simmer about six hours2 dish the meat with the onions and carrots around it1 strain the gravy on the whole1 and serve4 ,almost any piece of beef may be cooked in the same way1 and will be found good1 wholesome1 and economical4 ,,roasted4 ,how to improve it4--,put the meat in a tureen1 with four tablespoonfuls of sweet-oil1 salt1 pepper1 two tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley1 four onions cut in slices1 two bay-leaves1 and the juice of half a lemon2 put half of all the above under the meat1 and half on it2 cover1 and leave thus two days in winter1 and about eighteen hours in summer4 ,it certainly improves the meat and makes it more tender4 ,the tenderloin may be improved as well as any other piece4 ,then place the meat on the spit before and near a very sharp fire4 ,baste often with the seasonings1 if you have improved the meat2 or with a little melted butter1 if you have not4 ,continue basting with what is in the dripping-pan4 ,beef must be placed as near the fire as possible1 without burning it1 however2 and then1 as soon as a coating or crust is formed all around1 remove it by degrees4 ,remember that the quicker the crust is formed1 the more juicy and tender the meat4 ,nothing at all is added to form that kind of crust4 ,it is formed by the osmazome of the meat1 attracted by the heat1 and coming in contact with the air while revolving4 ,beef is more juicy when rather underdone2 if good1 when cut1 it has a pinky color inside4 ,roast beef may be served with the drippings only1 after being strained and the fat removed4 ,it may also be served in the following ways3 ,with ,potatoes4--,fried potatoes may be served all around the meat1 or on a separate dish4 ,also1 potato croquettes4 ,with ,horse-radish4--,grate horse-radish1 mix it with the drippings1 and serve in a boat4 ,with a ,garniture4--,mix a liver garniture with the gravy1 add lemon-juice1 place all around the meat1 and serve4 ,with ,truffles4--,place the garniture of truffles on and around the meat1 turn the drippings on the whole1 and serve4 ,with ,tomatoes4--,surround the meat with stuffed tomatoes1 strain the gravy on the whole1 and serve4 ,on ,purees4--,spread either of the following purees on the dish1 place the meat over it1 strain the drippings on the whole2 and serve3 ,purees of asparagus1 beans1 cauliflowers1 celery1 ,lima beans1 onions1 green peas1 potatoes1 and mushrooms4 ,with ,cabbage4--,surround the meat with ,brussels cabbages1 prepared au jus2 strain the drippings on the whole1 and serve4 ,with ,quenelles4--,place twelve quenelles of chicken around the meat1 and serve with the drippings4 ,,to ,,decorate4 ,when served in any way as described above1 one or two or more skewers may be run through craw-fish and a slice of truffle1 and stuck in the meat1 or through sweetbreads au jus1 and slices of truffles4 ,it makes a beautiful and good decoration4 ,the skewers may also be run through chicken-combs1 prepared as for farce2 first through a comb1 then through a slice of truffle1 through a sweetbread1 again through a slice of truffle1 then through a craw-fish1 and lastly a slice of truffle1 or the reverse1 according to fancy4 ,with ,rice4--,it is surrounded with rice croquettes1 the drippings strained over the whole4 ,we could put down some twenty or more other ways1 but any one with an ordinary amount of natural capacity can do it1 by varying the garnitures1 purees1 decorations1 etc4 ,cold roast-beef is prepared like boiled beef4 ,,baked4 ,place the meat in a bake-pan1 with cold water about a quarter of an inch deep2 spread salt1 pepper1 and a little butter on the meat1 cover it with a piece of buttered paper2 baste often over the paper1 lest it should burn2 keep the bottom of the pan covered with juice2 if the water and juice are absorbed1 add a little cold water and continue basting2 turn over two or three times1 but keep the paper on the top2 if it is burnt1 put on another piece4 ,the paper keeps the top of the meat moist1 and prevents it from burning or drying4 ,when done1 it is served like roasted beef4 ,,fillet4 ,the tenderloin and even the sirloin are sometimes called1 or rather known1 under the name of fillet1 when cooked4 ,it comes from the ,french filet--tenderloin4 ,sirloin means surloin2 like stock and several others1 sirloin is purely ,english4 ,the surloin is the upper part of the loin1 as its prefix indicates2 it is surlonge in ,french4 ,a fillet is generally larded with salt pork by means of a small brass larding-needle2 the salt pork cut in strips to fit the needle 7see ,larding74 ,if you use a tenderloin1 trim off the fat4 ,if it is a piece of ribs1 prepared fillet-like1 shape it like a fillet as near as possible2 the rest is used as directed above4 ,a piece of ribs is certainly cheaper1 and can be had at any time1 while the other is as difficult to procure as it is dear4 ,to lard it4--,have a towel in your left hand and place the meat over it1 the most flat and smooth side up1 holding it so that the upper part will present a somewhat convex surface1 and commence larding at either end and finishing at the other1 in this way3 ,run the needle through the upper part of the convex surface1 commencing at about a quarter of an inch from the edge of one side1 running through the meat a distance of about one inch and a half1 about half an inch in depth at the middle1 and the strip of salt pork sticking out at both ends2 that is1 where the needle was introduced into the meat1 and where it came out of it4 ,repeat this till you have a row of strips across the meat1 the strips being about one-third of an inch apart4 ,lard row after row in the same way1 and till the whole flat side is covered2 the ends of the strips of pork sticking out of each row being intermingled4 ,to cook it4--,it may be roasted or baked exactly in the same way as directed above for roast and baked beef4 ,it may also be improved in the same way4 ,when cooked in either of the two above ways1 it is served with its gravy only1 or-- ,with fried potatoes4 ,with potato coquettes4 ,with truffles4 ,with tomatoes4 ,with quenelles4 ,with ,madeira-sauce4 ,with green peas4 ,the same as roast or baked beef above4 ,it may also be decorated in the same way4 ,a fillet is also cooked exactly like beef a la mode1 with the exception that it does not require as long2 for a large one1 it requires only about three hours4 ,when cooked thus1 it is served with its gravy strained1 and decorated with skewers1 as above4 ,with ,macaroni4--,while the fillet is cooking1 prepare a pound of macaroni au jus1 and serve the fillet on the macaroni spread on a dish2 the gravy of the fillet being mixed with the macaroni when both are done4 ,fillet a la ,brillat-,savarin4--,cook it in a pan as above1 and serve it decorated with sweetbreads and slices of truffles1 as described for roast-beef1 and with a ,champagne-sauce4 ,a la ,chateaubriand4--,this is prepared and served like the preceding one1 with a ,madeira instead of a ,champagne sauce4 ,saute4--,when cooked in a pan as directed above1 cook mushrooms about ten minutes in the gravy1 and serve mushrooms and gravy all around the meat4 ,a fillet saute is always made with a tenderloin4 ,as is seen by the above receipts1 all the good pieces of beef may be prepared in the ways described1 ribs as well as other pieces1 and from the plainest to the most recherche way1 from the cheapest to the most costly manner4 ,several names are given to the different ways we have described1 such as fillet financiere 7fillet served with a ragout of chicken-combs71 fillet ,richelieu 7fillet with half a dozen skewers71 etc4 ,en ,bellevue4--,this is the best way to serve it cold4 ,it may be served whole1 or part of it1 that is1 what is left from the preceding dinner4 ,for a supper or lunch1 it is the most handy dish1 as it can be prepared in advance4 ,make some meat jelly or calf's-foot jelly1 put a thickness of about three-quarters of an inch of it in a tin dish or mould1 large enough to hold the fillet2 then place on ice to cool1 and when congealed and firm enough1 place the fillet on it1 the larded side downward2 fill now with jelly till the fillet is covered1 and have a thickness of about three-quarters of an inch above it4 ,the fillet must not touch the sides of the mould1 but be perfectly enveloped in jelly4 ,if the thickness of jelly is even on both sides and all around1 it is much more sightly4 ,when the jelly is perfectly congealed and firm1 place a dish over the mould1 turn upside down1 and remove it4 ,serve as it is4 ,as a tenderloin is very expensive and rather difficult to get1 buy a fine piece of ribs1 cut the fleshy part of the shape of a tenderloin1 and prepare it as directed above2 it makes an excellent and sightly dish4 ,the bony part with the rest of the flesh is used to make broth4 ,,ribs4 ,with ,vinegar4--,put two tablespoonfuls of fat in a saucepan1 and set it on the fire2 when melted1 put the beef in2 say a piece of three pounds1 from the round1 rump1 or rib-piece2 brown it on every side2 add one gill of vinegar1 salt1 and a teaspoonful of pepper1 cover the pan1 and keep on a rather sharp fire for fifteen minutes2 then add one carrot and one onion1 both sliced1 a stalk of thyme1 three cloves1 two bay-leaves1 and six pepper-corns1 a pint of broth1 and same of water2 boil gently till done2 dish the meat1 strain the sauce over it1 and serve4 ,ribs may also be broiled like steaks1 and served either with a maitre d'hotel1 mushrooms1 potatoes1 or water-cress4 ,the low cuts of beef are generally used to make broth1 or stewed4 ,,steaks4 ,the best piece of beef for a steak is the tenderloin4 ,what is called a porter-house steak is the tenderloin1 sirloin1 and other surrounding parts cut in slices4 ,a steak should never be less than three-quarters of an inch in thickness4 ,it should always be broiled2 it is inferior in taste and flavor when cooked in a pan 7saute71 or other utensil1 but many persons cook it so1 not having the necessary fire or utensil to broil2 broiled or saute1 it is served alike4 ,the same rules are applied to steaks of venison1 pork1 etc42 turtle-steaks are also prepared like beef-steaks4 ,a good steak does not need any pounding2 the object of pounding a steak is to break its fibres4 ,a pounded steak may appear or taste more tender to a person not knowing or never having tasted a good steak1 but an experienced palate cannot be deceived4 ,it is better to broil before than over the fire4 7,see ,broiling47 ,to cook a steak in an oven or drum1 or any other badly-invented machine or contrivance1 is not to broil it1 but to spoil it4 ,to make tender4--,when cut1 trimmed1 salted1 and peppered1 put them in a bowl1 and sprinkle some sweet-oil or melted butter over them2 turn them over in the bowl every two or three hours for from six to twelve hours4 ,to cut and prepare4--,cut the meat in round or oval slices1 as even as possible1 of any size1 about one inch in thickness1 and trim off the fibres and thin skin that may be around4 ,do not cut off the fat1 but flatten a little each slice with a chopper4 ,to broil4--when the steaks are cut and prepared as directed1 they are slightly greased on both sides with lard or butter 7if they have not been in a bowl with oil or butter before cooking them71 placed on a warmed gridiron1 set before or on a sharp fire1 turned over once or twice1 and taken off when rather underdone4 ,salt and pepper them1 dish1 spread a maitre d'hotel over them1 and serve very warm4 ,cooks and epicures differ about the turning over of steaks2 also about broiling them with or without salt2 some say that they must not be turned over twice1 others are of opinion that they must be turned over two or three1 and even more times2 some say that they must be salted and peppered before broiling1 others say they must not2 we have tried the two ways many times1 and did not find any difference2 if there is any difference at all1 it is in the quality of the meat1 or in the person's taste1 or in the cook's care4 ,when the steak is served as above1 place some fried potatoes all around1 and serve hot4 ,instead of fried potatoes1 put some water-cress all around1 add a few drops of vinegar1 and serve4 ,the water-cress is to be put on raw and cold4 ,when the steak is dished1 spread some anchovy-butter on it instead of a maitre d'hotel1 and serve warm also4 ,it may also be served with lobster-butter instead of a maitre d'hotel4 ,steaks are also served with horse-radish butter1 and surrounded with fried or souffle potatoes4 ,with a ,tomato-,sauce4--,broil and serve the steak as directed above1 and serve it with a tomato-sauce instead of a maitre d'hotel4 ,with a ,poivrade or ,piquante ,sauce4--,broil and serve with a poivrade or piquante sauce1 instead of a maitre d'hotel4 ,with ,egg4--,when the steaks are cut and prepared as directed1 dip them in beaten egg1 roll them in bread-crumbs1 then broil1 and serve them with either a maitre d'hotel or tomato-sauce1 or with potatoes1 etc4 ,with ,truffles4--,set a saucepan on the fire with one ounce of butter in it2 as soon as melted add half a tablespoonful of flour1 stir1 and1 when turning brown1 add also about a gill of broth2 stir again for five or six minutes1 when mix three or four tablespoonfuls of good gravy with the rest2 boil gently ten minutes1 take from the fire2 slice two or three truffles1 mix them with the rest2 add salt and pepper to taste2 give one boil1 turn over the steak which you have broiled as directed1 and serve4 ,with ,mushrooms4--,proceed as for truffles in every particular1 except that you use mushrooms4 ,fancy ,steak4--,cut the steak two or three inches thick1 butter slightly both sides1 lay it on a gridiron well greased and warmed2 set it on a moderate fire and broil it well2 to cook it through it must be turned over many times1 on account of its thickness4 ,serve like another steak1 with a maitre d'hotel1 poivrade1 potatoes1 or water-cress1 etc4 ,,boiled ,,beef4 ,this is understood to be beef that has been used to make broth--a rump-piece or a rib-piece1 boned and tied with twine before cooking it4 ,illustration3 a1 skewer2 b1 carrot2 c1 turnip2 d1 beef2 e1 carrots and turnips4 ,with ,carrots and ,turnips4--,remove the twine1 and place the piece of beef on the middle of a dish1 with carrots and turnips1 cut with a fruit-corer1 prepared au jus or glazed1 and arranged all around it2 also1 some skewers run through pieces of carrot and turnip1 and then stuck in the piece of beef4 7,see cut p4 #agd47 ,serve warm4 ,with ,brussels ,cabbage1 or ,sprouts4--,serve the beef as above1 surrounded with sprouts au jus1 and also ornamented with skewers run through sprouts1 with a piece of turnip between each4 ,in ,bourgeoise4--,serve the piece of beef warm1 decorated if handy1 and surrounded with fried potatoes cut with a vegetable spoon or in fillets1 and gravy spread over the whole4 ,if not decorated1 a few sprigs of parsley may be spread on the beef4 ,with ,onions4--,serve the beef as above1 and surround it with glazed onions4 ,with ,celery4--,when served as above1 the meat is surrounded with a puree of celery4 ,with ,cauliflowers4--,serve warm1 with a garniture of cauliflowers all around4 ,it may be decorated with skewers4 ,with ,chestnuts4--,glaze chestnuts as for dessert2 run the skewers through a chestnut first1 then through a fried potato1 and then through a slice of carrot1 and stick one at each end of the piece of beef2 put chestnuts all around1 spread some gravy over the whole1 and serve warm4 ,in ,croquettes4--,proceed as for croquettes of chicken4 ,hollandaise4--,cut the meat in fillets and put it in a saucepan1 with about two ounces of fat or butter to a pound of meat2 set on the fire and stir for ten minutes4 ,then add a tablespoonful of flour and stir about one minute1 with warm water enough to half cover the meat1 and boil about five minutes1 stirring now and then4 ,mix together in a bowl two yolks of eggs1 the juice of half a lemon1 and two or three tablespoonfuls of the sauce from the saucepan in which the beef is2 turn the mixture into the saucepan1 stir and mix1 add salt and pepper to taste1 give one boil1 and serve warm4 ,broiled4--,cut the meat in slices about one inch in thickness1 broil1 and serve like steaks4 ,au ,gratin4--,put two ounces of butter in a saucepan on the fire1 and when melted sprinkle into it two tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs1 two or three mushrooms chopped1 a teaspoonful of chopped onions1 same of parsley1 a pinch of allspice1 salt1 and pepper2 stir for about two minutes1 add a little broth to make the whole rather liquid4 ,cut one pound of boiled beef in slices1 place them in a tin or silver dish1 turn the mixture over them1 dust with bread-crumbs2 put half a dozen pieces of butter here and there on the top1 and bake for about fifteen minutes4 ,take from the oven when done1 add a few drops of lemon juice all over1 and serve warm in the dish in which it was baked4 ,with a maitre d'hotel1 piquante1 ,mayonnaise1 ,robert1 ravigote1 ,tartar1 or tomato sauce4 ,cut it in slices1 place them on a dish1 spread on them some chopped parsley and slices of pickled cucumbers1 and send thus to the table1 with either of the above sauces in a saucer to be used with it4 ,,in ,,miroton4 ,put a piece of butter the size of an egg in a stewpan 7this is for about two pounds71 and set it on the fire2 when melted1 put in it four middling-sized onions1 cut in slices when nearly cooked1 sprinkle on them a pinch of flour1 and stir till it takes a golden color2 then add half a glass of white wine1 and as much of broth1 also salt1 pepper1 and a little grated nutmeg2 boil until well cooked1 and till the sauce is reduced2 then add the boiled beef1 cut in slices1 and leave it fifteen minutes2 dish it1 pour on a few drops of vinegar1 and serve4 ,hushed4--,proceed exactly as for miroton1 except that the beef is cut in strips or chopped1 and that no wine is used4 ,,in ,,salad4 ,cut it in very thin and short slices1 and place them on a dish with chopped parsley2 put in a saucer sweet-oil and vinegar1 according to the quantity of beef you have1 two tablespoonfuls of oil to one of vinegar1 salt1 pepper1 and some mustard2 beat the whole a little1 pour on the slices1 and serve4 ,,corned ,,beef4 ,corned beef is generally boiled4 ,soak the corned beef in cold water for some time1 according to how salt it is4 ,set it on the fire1 covered with cold water1 and boil gently till done4 ,with ,cabbage4--,blanch the cabbage for about five minutes1 and drain4 ,then put it to cook with the corned beef when the latter is about half done2 serve both on the same dish1 or separately1 according to taste4 ,corned beef1 when boiled as above1 without cabbage1 can be served and decorated1 in every way1 like boiled beef4 ,it certainly makes sightly as well as good dishes for a family dinner4 ,a piece of corned beef1 surrounded with a garniture as we have described above1 decorated with skewers1 is very often served as a releve at an extra dinner4 ,cold ,corned ,beef4--,a whole piece1 or part of it1 may be served en ,bellevue1 the same as a fillet en ,bellevue2 it is also excellent4 ,,tongue4 ,clean and blanch it for about ten minutes--till the white skin can be easily removed4 ,after ten minutes boiling1 try if it comes off2 if not1 boil a little longer1 then skin it well4 ,to boil4--,when skinned1 put it in your soup-kettle with the beef1 etc41 to make broth1 and leave it till done4 ,when boiled1 the tongue may be served and decorated exactly the same as boiled beef1 in every way4 ,stewed4--,cut square fillets of bacon1 which dredge in a mixture of chopped parsley1 cives1 salt1 pepper1 and a little allspice2 lard the tongue with the fillets4 ,put in a crockery stewpan two ounces of bacon cut in dice1 four sprigs of parsley1 two of thyme1 one of sweet basil1 two bay-leaves1 a clove of garlic1 two cloves1 two carrots cut in pieces1 four small onions1 salt1 and pepper2 lay the tongue on the whole1 wet with half a glass of white wine and a glass of broth2 set on a moderate fire1 and simmer about five hours--keep it well covered2 then put the tongue on a dish1 strain the sauce on it1 and serve4 ,it is a delicious dish4 ,it may also be served with vegetables around1 or with tomato-sauce4 ,another way4--,when prepared as above directed1 put it on the fire with the same seasonings as the preceding one2 simmer four hours and take from the fire2 put the tongue on a dish and let it cool1 then place it on the spit before a good fire1 and finish the cooking2 serve it warm with an oil1 or piquante sauce4 ,if any is left of either of the two1 put in a pan the next day1 wet with a little broth1 set on the fire1 and when warm serve it on a puree2 do not allow it to boil4 ,,brain4 ,soak it in lukewarm water and clean well1 so as to have it free from blood1 fibres1 and thin skin2 then soak it again in cold water for twelve hours in winter and six in summer4 ,put in a crockery stewpan one ounce of bacon cut in slices1 one carrot cut in pieces1 two sprigs of parsley1 one of thyme1 a bay-leaf1 a clove1 four small onions cut in slices1 a teaspoonful of chopped cives1 salt1 pepper1 a pint of white wine1 as much of broth1 and then the brain2 set on a moderate fire for half an hour and take it off2 dish the brain and place it in a warm place2 then strain the sauce1 put it back on the fire with the brain in it1 add two or three mushrooms cut in pieces1 leave on the fire from ten to fifteen minutes1 and serve it1 parted in two1 with fried parsley around4 ,another way4--,when the brain is cleaned and prepared as above1 cut it in eight pieces4 ,mix well together a little flour1 chopped parsley and cives1 also a pinch of allspice2 roll the pieces of brain in it1 so as to allow the mixture to adhere to them2 have some butter in a frying-pan on the fire1 and when hot put the pieces of brain in it2 fry gently1 and serve with fried parsley around4 ,,heart4 ,soak it in lukewarm water for two hours1 free it from blood and skin1 drain and wipe dry2 then stuff it with sausage-meat1 to which you have added three or four onions chopped fine1 put it in a rather quick oven1 or on the spit before a good fire 7if on the spit1 envelop it with buttered paper71 basting from time to time2 it takes about an hour and a half to cook a middling-sized one2 serve it with a vinaigrette1 piquante1 poivrade1 or ravigote sauce4 ,it may also be fried with butter1 and cut in slices1 but it is not as good as in the above way2 it generally becomes hard in frying4 ,,kidneys4 ,first split the kidneys in four pieces1 trim off as carefully as possible the sinews and fat that are inside1 then cut in small pieces4 ,saute4--,the quicker this is done the better the kidney4 ,for a whole one put about two ounces of butter in a frying-pan and set it on a very sharp fire1 toss it round so as to melt the butter as fast as possible1 but without allowing it to blacken2 as soon as melted1 turn the cut kidney in1 stir now and then with a wooden spoon for about three minutes1 then add a tablespoonful of flour1 stir again the same as before for about one minute1 when add a gill of white wine and about one of broth2 stir again now and then till the kidney is rather underdone1 and serve immediately4 ,if the kidney is allowed to boil till perfectly done1 it will very seldom be tender4 ,it may be done with water instead of wine and broth2 in that case1 add a few drops of lemon-juice just before serving it4 ,prepare and serve it also as calf's-kidney1 in every way as directed for the same4 ,,liver4 ,cut the liver in slices a quarter of an inch in thickness1 sprinkle on them salt and pepper1 place them on a gridiron1 and set on a sharp fire2 turn over only once1 and serve rather underdone1 with butter and chopped parsley1 kneaded together and spread between the slices4 ,a few drops of lemon-juice may be added4 ,another way4--,when the liver is cut in slices1 as above1 put a piece of butter in a frying-pan on the fire1 and when melted1 lay the slices in2 turn over only once1 then serve1 with salt1 pepper1 vinegar1 and chopped parsley4 ,,tail4 ,cut the tail at the joint1 so as to make as many pieces as there are joints2 throw the pieces in boiling water for fifteen minutes1 and drain them4 ,when cold and dry1 put them in a saucepan with a bay-leaf1 two onions1 with a clove stuck in each1 two sprigs of parsley1 and one of thyme1 a clove of garlic1 salt1 pepper1 half a wine-glass of white wine1 and a few thin slices of salt pork2 cover with broth or water1 and set on a moderate fire for two hours4 ,dish the pieces1 strain the sauce on them1 and serve with a garniture of cabbage1 or with any puree4 ,,tripe4 ,how to clean and prepare4--,scrape and wash it well several times in boiling water1 changing the water every time1 then put in very cold water for about twelve hours1 changing the water two or three times2 place it in a pan1 cover it with cold water2 season with parsley1 cives1 onions1 one or two cloves of garlic1 cloves1 salt1 and pepper2 boil gently five hours1 take out and drain4 ,in case the water should boil away1 add more4 ,you may save all the trouble of cleaning and preparing1 by buying it ready prepared1 as it is generally sold in cities4 ,broiled4--,when prepared1 dip it in lukewarm butter1 roll in bread-crumbs1 place on a gridiron1 and set it on a moderate fire2 turn over as many times as is necessary to broil it well1 and serve with a vinaigrette1 piquante1 or ,tartar sauce2 also with a tomato-sauce4 ,stewed4--,put in a stewpan two ounces of salt pork1 cut in dice1 three carrots cut in slices1 eight small onions1 four cloves1 two bay-leaves1 two cloves of garlic1 a piece of nutmeg1 four sprigs of parsley1 two of thyme1 a dozen stalks of cives1 six pepper-corns1 the fourth part of an ox-foot cut in four pieces1 salt1 pepper1 about two ounces of ham cut in dice1 then three pounds of double tripe on the whole2 spread two ounces of fat bacon cut in thin slices on the top2 wet with half white wine and half water1 or water only if you choose2 put the cover on1 and if not air-tight1 put some paste around2 set in a slow oven for six hours1 then take the tripe out1 strain the sauce1 skim off the fat when cool1 then put the sauce and tripe again in your pan1 warm well1 and serve in crockery plates or bowls placed on chafing-dishes1 as it is necessary to keep it warm while eating4 ,it is good with water only1 but better with half wine4 ,this is also called a la mode de ,caen4 ,in ,poulette4--,when cleaned and prepared as directed1 cut one pound of tripe in strips about one and a half inches broad1 then cut again contrariwise1 so as to make small fillets4 ,put one ounce of butter in a saucepan with half a tablespoonful of flour1 and mix cold2 add two gills of water1 mix again1 set on the fire1 stir now and then1 give one boil1 put the tripe in1 salt and pepper to taste2 boil two minutes and dish the whole2 put a teaspoonful of chopped parsley all over1 and serve hot4 ,aux ,fines ,herbes4--,broil the tripe1 and serve it with sauce fines herbes4 ,tripe may be bought pickled2 it is then served at breakfast and lunch4 ,,smoked ,,beef',s ,,tongue4 ,soak the smoked tongue in cold water for at least three hours1 change the water once or twice during the process4 ,then take off the thin skin or strip around if there is any2 put the tongue in a saucepan with two sprigs of thyme1 two of parsley1 a bay-leaf1 two cloves1 six small onions1 and a clove of garlic2 fill the pan with cold water1 and let simmer about six hours4 ,if the water is boiling away1 add more4 ,take from the fire1 let cool as it is1 then take it out of the water2 clean it1 let dry1 and serve it when cold4 ,cut the tongue1 when prepared as above1 either in slices or in strips1 and use for sandwiches1 or serve it whole1 with a cucumber1 piquante1 poivrade1 or tomato sauce1 at breakfast or lunch4 ,it may also be served in vinaigrette4 ,when prepared as directed above1 serve it as a fillet of beef en ,bellevue1 for supper1 lunch1 or breakfast4 ,it makes a fine and delicious dish4 ,it is used also to stuff boned turkeys and other birds1 as directed in those receipts2 always boil it as directed above1 before using it4 ,when served with any of the above sauces1 it may be decorated with skewers the same as boiled beef4 ,larded4--,when boiled1 lard it with salt pork1 and bake it for about one hour in a moderately heated oven1 and serve it with the same sauces as above4 ,cut in slices and served with parsley1 it is a hors-d'oeuvre4 ,,mutton4 ,,how ,,to ,,select4 ,you may be sure that mutton is good when the flesh is rather black1 and the fat white2 if the fat breaks easily1 it is young4 ,the wether is much superior to the ewe4 ,you will know if a leg of mutton comes from a wether1 if there is a large and hard piece of fat on one side at the larger and upper end2 if from a ewe1 that part is merely a kind of skin1 with a little fat on it4 ,,roasted4 ,a piece of mutton to roast must not be too fresh1 it is much more tender when the meat is rather seasoned1 but not tainted1 or what is sometimes called high4 ,when on the spit1 place it near the fire1 baste immediately with a little melted butter1 and then with the drippings4 ,as soon as you notice that a kind of crust or coating has formed around the piece of meat1 remove it a little from the fire by degrees2 and continue basting till done4 ,the quicker the crust is formed1 though without burning the meat1 the more juicy and tender it will be4 ,roast mutton1 like roast beef1 is better served rather underdone1 but should be a little more done than beef4 ,when properly roasted1 the meat1 whatever piece it may be1 either a loin or saddle1 a leg1 shoulder1 or a breast1 may be served with its gravy only2 that is1 with what is in the dripping-pan after having removed all the fat1 also on a soubise or on a puree of sorrel4 ,the above pieces may also be served in the following ways3 ,with ,potatoes4--,when dished1 surround the meat with potatoes1 either fried1 mashed1 or in croquettes4 ,with ,quenelles4--,dish the meat1 place half a dozen quenelles around it1 and decorate it with skewers which you have run through a quenelle and then through a craw-fish and stuck in the meat4 ,with ,carrots4--,when dished1 put all around the meat carrots au jus1 or glazed and cut with a vegetable spoon4 ,with ,spinach4--,spinach au jus when done is spread on the dish1 the meat is put on it1 and served warm4 ,do the same with a puree of cauliflowers4 ,,baked4 ,all the above pieces are baked as well as roasted2 and when done1 served exactly in the same and every way as when roasted4 ,put the meat in a baking-pan with a little butter spread over it2 cover the bottom of the pan with cold water1 then put in a quick oven4 ,after it has been in the oven for about fifteen minutes1 baste and place a piece of buttered paper on the top of the meat4 ,if the bottom of the pan is getting dry1 add a little more water1 but it is seldom the case except with inferior meat4 ,when you see rather too much fat in the pan1 take from the oven1 turn the fat off1 put cold water instead1 and put back in the oven to finish the cooking4 ,if the paper burns1 put on another piece2 but by basting often over the paper1 it will remain pretty long before burning4 ,with a small knife or a skewer you ascertain when done enough or to your liking2 never cook by guess or by hearsay2 the oven may be quicker one day than another1 or slower2 the meat may be more tender1 or more hard2 remember that if you cook by guess 7we mean1 to put down1 as a matter of course1 that it takes so many hours1 or so many minutes1 to bake this or that71 and stick to it1 you will fail nine times out of ten4 ,when done1 serve as directed above4 ,in ,croquettes4--,make and serve as chicken croquettes4 ,in ,haricot or ,ragout4--,take a neck or breast piece of mutton1 which cut in pieces about two inches long and one broad4 ,put them in a saucepan 7say three pounds7 with two ounces of butter1 set on the fire and stir occasionally till turning rather brown1 then add a tablespoonful of flour1 stir for one minute1 cover with cold water1 add one onion whole1 salt1 a bunch of seasonings composed of four sprigs of parsley1 one of thyme1 a bay-leaf1 and a clove1 one clove of garlic1 chopped fine4 ,boil gently till about two-thirds done1 stirring now and then2 add potatoes1 peeled1 quartered1 and cut1 as far as possible1 of the shape of a carpel of orange4 ,the proportion is1 about as many pieces of potatoes as of meat4 ,boil again gently till done1 place the pieces of meat in the middle of the dish1 the potatoes around1 the juice or sauce over the whole1 and serve4 ,skim off the fat1 if any1 before turning the sauce over the rest4 ,,breast ,,boiled4 ,put the breast entire in a saucepan1 with a sprig of thyme1 two of parsley1 a bay-leaf1 a clove1 salt1 and pepper1 cover with water1 set on the fire1 boil gently till cooked1 and then drain4 ,put in a frying-pan three tablespoonfuls of sweet-oil1 a teaspoonful of chopped parsley1 salt1 and pepper2 when hot lay the breast in and fry it all around for five minutes2 then take it off1 roll it in bread-crumbs1 place it on a gridiron1 and set on a good fire for five minutes2 turn it over once only1 then serve it with a piquante1 poivrade1 or tomato sauce4 ,it may also be served on a puree of sorrel4 ,,neck ,,broiled4 ,prepare and serve exactly the same as a breast broiled4 ,a breast or a neck piece broiled may be served on a soubise4 ,it may also be served with a maitre d'hotel or mushroom sauce1 also with a piquante or any other sharp sauce4 ,,chops4 ,broiled4--,trim and flatten the chops with a chopper1 sprinkle salt and pepper on both sides1 dip them in melted butter1 place them on a gridiron1 and set on a sharp fire1 turn over two or three times to broil properly1 and when done1 serve them around a dish1 one lapping over the other1 etc41 and serve with the gravy4 ,it takes about twelve minutes to cook with a good fire4 ,another way4--,when trimmed and flattened1 dip them in beaten egg1 roll them in bread-crumbs and broil1 either as they are1 or enveloped in buttered paper1 and serve them with a maitre d'hotel sauce4 ,sautes4--,when trimmed and flattened1 fry them with a little butter on both sides2 then take the chops from the pan and put them in a warm place4 ,leave in the pan only a tablespoonful of fat1 add to it three times as much broth1 a teaspoonful of parsley and green onions1 two shallots1 two pickled cucumbers1 all chopped fine1 and a pinch of allspice2 give one boil1 pour the whole on the chops1 also the juice of half a lemon1 and serve4 ,the same1 with ,vegetables4--,put in a frying-pan a piece of butter the size of two walnuts for four chops1 set on a good fire1 and when hot lay the chops in1 after having flattened them with a chopper1 and having sprinkled salt and pepper on both sides2 add a clove1 and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley and green onions2 leave thus five minutes1 turn over once or twice2 then add also half a wine-glass of broth1 same of white wine1 and finish the cooking4 ,take the chops off the pan and put them in a warm place4 ,boil the sauce in the pan ten minutes1 turn it on the chops1 put a garniture of vegetables around1 and serve4 ,throw away the clove just before serving4 ,another way4--,have a piece of butter the size of an egg for eight chops in a crockery vessel1 and set it on a good fire2 when melted take from the fire1 lay the chops in1 after having flattened them2 then cover them with a sheet of buttered paper2 place the vessel in a rather hot oven1 and when cooked serve them on a maitre d'hotel1 provencale1 or tomato sauce4 ,they may also be served on a puree of sorrel1 or one of potatoes4 ,the same1 in ,papillote4--,cut the chops rather thin1 beat them gently and flatten them2 then proceed as for veal cutlets in papillotes in every particular4 ,financiere4--,broil the chops1 either with or without egg and crumbs1 and serve them with a financiere garniture4 ,soubise4--,the chops are either broiled or fried2 either broiled only dipped in lukewarm butter or in beaten egg and crumbs and then served on a soubise4 ,a little lemon-juice may be added when they are on the dish4 ,jardiniere4--,cut two carrots and two turnips with a vegetable spoon and set on the fire with cold water and salt2 boil gently till tender1 and drain4 ,boil also in the same way1 in another pan and till tender1 two tablespoonfuls of green peas1 or string-beans cut in pieces1 and drain also4 ,then put carrots1 turnips1 peas1 or beans1 back on the fire1 in the same pan with a little gravy and broth1 enough to cover them1 salt1 and pepper2 boil gently five minutes2 then put the chops in after being fried as directed below2 boil another five minutes2 take from the fire1 place the chops around the dish1 one lapping over the other1 and so that an empty place is left in the middle2 turn the carrots1 turnips1 and peas1 with the sauce in that empty place1 and serve4 ,salt and pepper the chops on both sides2 fry them in a little butter till about three-quarters done2 then take off and put with the vegetables as directed above4 ,they may be broiled instead of fried1 which is better4 ,a la ,princesse4--,trim the chops as usual and salt and pepper both sides4 ,chop very fine a piece of lean veal about half a pound for six or eight chops1 according to size1 then pound it and mix it with half a teaspoonful of flour1 a pinch of nutmeg1 salt1 pepper1 a yolk of egg1 two tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs and one ounce of butter4 ,if too firm the butter must be melted so as to mix better4 ,put the mixture in a saucepan1 set on a good fire1 stir for ten minutes1 and take off4 ,then grease the paste-board slightly with butter1 put a teaspoonful of the mixture here and there on it1 roll and make small balls of it1 drop them in boiling broth or water1 boiling about fifteen minutes1 and take off with a skimmer4 ,dip the chops in melted butter1 then in beaten eggs1 and roll in bread-crumbs2 fry them with a little butter4 ,fry the balls also4 ,place the chops on the dish1 the bones toward the edge1 and the balls between the chops2 serve warm4 ,a few balls may be placed in the middle4 ,with ,mushrooms4--,broil and serve them with a puree of mushrooms1 or with a mushroom garniture4 ,mutton chops1 broiled1 may be served with every kind of butter1 every garniture1 and every sauce1 according to taste2 they may also be served with every puree4 ,a ,french cook once said he could serve mutton chops in three hundred ways1 apples in two hundred ways1 and eggs in four hundred ways4 ,the culinary science and art is advanced enough to-day to double the above figures1 and have plenty to spare4 ,,leg4 ,besides being prepared as directed for roast mutton1 a leg of mutton1 roasted or baked1 may be served in the following ways3 ,boil white beans and drain them as directed1 then put them on the fire with the drippings of the leg of mutton for ten minutes1 stirring now and then1 and serve them with it4 ,they may also be kept in the dripping-pan for ten minutes1 when boiled and drained1 before the leg is done4 ,if the leg of mutton is baked1 set them on the fire for about ten minutes1 with the gravy1 stirring occasionally4 ,serve either on the same or on a separate dish4 ,with ,currant ,jelly4--,roast or bake the leg of mutton1 and serve it with currant jelly or with a puree4 ,provencale4--,with a sharp-pointed knife1 make a small cut in the leg of mutton here and there1 and large enough to stick into the cut a clove of garlic4 ,make as many cuts as you please1 from six to twenty1 according to taste1 and in each cut stick a clove of garlic4 ,when prepared thus1 roast or bake1 and serve it with either of the following sauces3 piquante1 poivrade1 ravigote1 remolade1 ,robert1 shallot1 ,tartar1 tomato1 and in vinaigrette4 ,decorated4--,a leg of mutton may be decorated the same as a fillet of beef4 ,stewed4--,take the large bone out1 leaving the bone at the smaller end as a handle2 cut off also the bone below the knuckle1 and fix it with skewers2 then put it in a stewpan with a pinch of allspice1 four onions1 two cloves1 two carrots cut in four pieces each1 a small bunch of parsley1 two bay-leaves1 three sprigs of thyme1 salt1 pepper1 two ounces of bacon cut in slices1 a quarter of a pint of broth1 and water enough just to cover it2 set on a good fire1 and after one hour of boiling add a liquor-glass of ,french brandy4 ,let simmer then for about five hours1 in all about six hours2 then dish it1 strain the sauce on it1 and serve4 ,we would advise those who have never tasted of a leg of mutton cooked as above1 to try it4 ,it may be served also with white beans cooked in water and fried in butter1 or on fried potatoes4 ,the next day4--,if you have a piece left for the next day1 cut it in thin slices after dinner1 place the slices on a dish1 with parsley under1 in the middle1 and above1 and keep in a cold place4 ,a while before dinner you put in a stewpan a piece of butter 7the quantity to be according to the quantity of meat71 and set it on a good fire2 when melted1 sprinkle in1 gradually1 a little flour1 stirring with a wooden spoon2 when of a proper thickness1 and of a brownish color1 add a glass of broth1 salt1 pepper1 a few pickled cucumbers cut in slices1 and two or three mushrooms2 boil ten minutes2 lay the slices of meat in1 subdue the fire1 simmer twenty minutes1 and serve4 ,the same1 in another way4--,chop fine the slices of leg of mutton1 put a piece of butter in a stewpan1 and set it on the fire2 when melted1 place the chopped meat in1 keep stirring with a wooden spoon for about ten minutes2 then add two or three tablespoonfuls of broth1 salt1 pepper1 and a pinch of allspice2 simmer fifteen minutes1 and serve with fried eggs all around the dish4 ,boiled4--,set a saucepan on the fire with cold water enough to cover the leg of mutton1 add salt2 at the first boil put the leg of mutton in1 wrapped up in a towel4 ,boil gently till done4 ,for a middling-sized one1 it takes about two hours4 ,remove the towel1 dish the leg of mutton1 spread a caper-sauce over it1 and serve hot4 ,the sauce may also be served in a boat or saucer4 ,cold4--,what is left of it may be prepared like cold mutton in vinaigrette4 ,,shoulder4 ,shoulder boned4--,split the shoulder just in the middle1 on the inside1 lengthwise and following the middle of the bones2 remove the flat bone at the larger end first4 ,this is easily done by scraping the meat off the bone on both sides1 and then pulling it off4 ,do the same with the remaining bone4 ,spread the shoulder open on the table1 the inside up1 salt and pepper it1 then spread on it the same stuffing as for a chicken stuffed with sausage-meat4 ,roll the shoulder round1 tie it with twine1 and roast or bake it4 ,when roasted or baked1 serve with the gravy4 ,on a ,puree4--,bone and roll the shoulder as above directed1 but do not stuff it2 roast or bake it1 and serve it on a puree of potatoes1 beans1 peas1 lentils1 or any other vegetable2 place the shoulder in the middle of a dish1 cut it in slices1 and place them all around the puree1 one lapping over the other2 turn the gravy over the whole through a strainer1 and serve hot4 ,with a ,sauce4--,when baked or roasted as above1 with or without stuffing1 serve it with a piquante1 ravigote1 or ,robert sauce4 ,boiled4--,boil1 and serve it with a caper-sauce1 the same as the leg4 ,,saddle4 ,prepare1 cook1 and serve the saddle in the same way as the leg--roasted or baked1 warm or cold4 ,,cold ,,mutton4 ,served cold1 a la ,vinaigrette4--,a shoulder of mutton1 roasted or baked1 after being boned1 makes a handsome dish served cold4 ,cut any piece of cold mutton that you may have1 in thin slices1 as evenly as possible4 ,place a paste-cutter1 about an inch and a half in diameter1 in the middle of an oval dish2 then place the slices of meat all around the dish1 one slice lapping over another2 the dish being oval1 the slices of meat will touch the paste-cutter on two sides1 but there will be two empty places on the two other sides1 which you fill with hard-boiled white of egg chopped fine1 and hard-boiled yolk of egg chopped fine also2 they must not be mixed1 and the yolk must be farther from the paste-cutter1 the white touching it4 ,put a string of chopped yolk of egg all around the meat1 and outside of it one of chopped white of egg around the yolk1 and one of chopped parsley around the white4 ,remove the paste-cutter1 and put a rose1 or two or three pinks1 in its place1 or a small bunch of violets4 ,place one or three capers on each small heap of yolk of egg that is on the middle of the dish1 and also some capers here and there on the string of white of egg4 ,place a rose at each end of the dish1 as indicated in the cut opposite2 six radishes around the dish1 also as indicated in the cut1 and you have a dish as sightly as can be made1 and an excellent one1 too4 ,serve with the following sauce in a boat or saucer3 ,put in a bowl half a teaspoonful of mustard1 a little pepper and salt2 then pour one or two tablespoonfuls of vinegar on1 little by little1 beating with a fork at the same time2 again1 three or four tablespoonfuls of oil1 and in the same way2 and when the whole is well mixed1 serve4 ,illustration3 ,a1 two roses1 one at each end2 ,b1 six radishes around2 ,c1 slices of meat2 ,d1 eggs2 ,e1 yolks of eggs2 ,f1 parsley4 ,,sheep',s ,,brain4 ,prepare1 cook1 and serve as calf's brain4 ,,feet4 ,broiled4--,throw them in boiling water for ten minutes1 clean and scrape off the hair and take out the large bone4 ,put in a saucepan a bay-leaf1 one clove1 a tablespoonful of vinegar1 a clove of garlic1 two sprigs of parsley1 two green onions1 salt1 pepper1 a piece of butter the size of two walnuts1 half a pint of broth1 then a dozen feet on the whole2 set on a slow fire1 simmer one hour1 stir now and then1 take from the fire and let cool4 ,then dip each foot in beaten egg1 and roll it in bread-crumbs2 place them on a gridiron2 turn over to broil both sides properly1 and serve them with the sauce in which they have been cooked1 after having strained it4 ,they may also be served on a piquante1 poivrade1 ravigote1 or ,robert sauce4 ,in ,poulette4--,prepare and clean them as directed above4 ,put in a saucepan four ounces of salt pork cut in dice1 two ounces of lard1 salt1 and white pepper2 when warm1 add three sprigs of parsley1 two of thyme1 a bay-leaf1 one clove1 four onions1 and one carrot1 cut in slices1 a quarter of a lemon1 also cut in slices1 free from rind and seed1 two tablespoonfuls of flour2 this last must be added by sprinkling it little by little1 stirring the while with a wooden spoon2 five minutes after1 place the feet in1 cover the whole with warm water1 and let simmer gently for five or six hours4 ,after that time see if the meat can be easily detached from the bones1 and if so1 they are cooked2 if not1 leave them a little longer1 and take from the fire as soon as it is easily detached1 but do not detach it4 ,put in a stewpan a piece of butter the size of two walnuts2 when melted1 sprinkle in it a tablespoonful of flour1 stir with a wooden spoon1 then put the feet in1 add a teaspoonful of chopped parsley and green onions1 a little piece of nutmeg1 salt1 pepper1 and two or three mushrooms cut in slices or pieces2 wet with broth2 simmer half an hour1 take from the fire1 and throw away the piece of nutmeg2 mix with the whole two yolks of eggs well beaten and a tablespoonful of vinegar1 and serve4 ,,sheep',s ,,kidneys1 ,,broiled4 ,split them in two1 and put them in cold water for five minutes2 trim off the pellicle or thin skin1 run a skewer through1 sprinkle salt and pepper on1 place them on the gridiron1 and set on a good fire2 turn over1 and when broiled1 serve them with a piece of butter and chopped parsley kneaded together1 and placed on each kidney2 add also a few drops of lemon-juice4 ,you may also1 when broiled1 serve them on a maitre d'hotel sauce4 ,the same1 in ,brochette4--,proceed as above in every particular1 except that you place the kidneys on the spit instead of on the gridiron4 ,serve them in the same way4 ,the same1 with ,champagne4--,cut the kidneys in slices1 each in ten or twelve pieces4 ,put in a stewpan a piece of butter the size of two walnuts1 and set it on the fire2 when melted1 add a teaspoonful of chopped parsley1 same of mushrooms1 a pinch of grated nutmeg1 salt1 pepper1 and the kidneys2 keep tossing till they become stiff1 then sprinkle on them a saltspoonful of flour1 stirring with a wooden spoon the while2 add also a wine-glass of ,champagne1 or of good white wine2 subdue the fire1 and let simmer till cooked2 take from the fire1 add about one ounce of fresh butter1 and the juice of half a lemon1 and serve4 ,this is a very delicate dish4 ,,sheep',s ,,tails4 ,put in a stewpan two ounces of bacon cut in slices1 with a bay-leaf1 two sprigs of parsley1 one of thyme1 one clove1 six small onions1 one carrot cut in four pieces1 then about six tails2 cover the whole with broth and white wine1 half of each2 add salt and pepper4 ,place the pan in a moderately heated oven2 it will take about four hours to cook them4 ,after that time1 take the tails from the pan1 and put them in a warm place1 then strain the sauce in which they have cooked1 skim off the fat if too much of it1 put the sauce back in the pan1 and set on the fire2 let it reduce till rather thick1 place the tails on a puree1 turn the sauce on them1 and serve4 ,,sheep',s ,,tongues4 ,soak the tongues in cold water for two hours in winter1 and one in summer1 and drain4 ,throw them in boiling water1 and leave till you can easily take the skin off2 then skin and clean well1 split in two lengthwise1 and let cool4 ,put in a stewpan two ounces of bacon cut in thin slices1 a bay-leaf1 two sprigs of thyme1 four of parsley1 two cloves1 three green onions and six small red or white ones1 one carrot cut in four pieces1 salt and pepper1 then the tongues2 add also half a pint of broth1 same of water1 same of white wine2 set in a moderately heated oven1 and simmer about four hours2 have the stewpan covered as nearly air-tight as possible4 ,then take the tongues from the pan and drain them2 knead well together two ounces of fresh butter1 with two teaspoonfuls of chopped parsley1 a little salt and allspice2 spread some on each of the tongues as soon as they are cold2 envelop each in oiled paper1 broil them gently on a slow fire1 and serve with the paper4 ,you may also when prepared and cooked as above directed1 and instead of broiling them1 place a puree on a dish1 and serve them on a puree1 pouring on the whole the sauce in which they have cooked1 and straining it at the same time4 ,they are really more delicate when broiled4 ,,lamb4 ,to select4--,the flesh must be like that of mutton1 rather black1 and the fat white4 ,there is no difference in the wether and ewe4 ,the shorter the quarters are the better the meat1 and the fore as well as the hind quarter4 ,with the exception that the breast-piece is prepared also in epigramme1 and that it is cut in quarters instead of dividing it like mutton1 lamb may be prepared in the same and every way like mutton4 ,the quarters may be prepared like shoulder1 leg1 and saddle of mutton4 ,chops may be cut and prepared the same as mutton-chops4 ,fore-,quarter4--,according to the opinion of a great many epicures1 the fore-quarter is the best part of the lamb2 but1 as we have previously said1 every one to his liking4 ,lard it slightly1 and envelop it with buttered paper1 place it upon the spit before a good fire2 when done take from the fire1 and take the paper off1 sprinkle on it salt1 pepper1 and chopped parsley2 put back on the spit before a sharp fire1 just long enough to allow it to take a fine color2 then take off1 run a knife under the shoulder to make a small hole1 pour maitre d'hotel sauce in it1 and serve either as it is1 with its gravy1 or on a puree of sorrel4 ,to bake it4--,put it in a baking-pan1 spread a little salt1 pepper1 and butter over it2 cover it with a piece of buttered paper2 have the bottom of the pan covered with cold water and put in a warm oven1 baste often till done4 ,if the paper burns1 put on another piece4 ,run a small knife or a skewer into the meat1 to ascertain when properly done4 ,it may be served with the gravy only1 after having removed the fat1 or with a piquante1 poivrade1 or maitre d'hotel sauce4 ,it is also served with a garniture of mushrooms or onions1 or with a macedoine1 or on a puree of spinach1 or of sorrel4 ,hind-,quarter4--,throw it in boiling water for five minutes1 and drain4 ,put in a stewpan a piece of butter the size of an egg1 and set on the fire2 when melted1 mix in it a tablespoonful of flour2 after which1 pour in1 little by little1 a pint and a half of boiling water1 stirring with a wooden spoon all the time2 then put the meat in the pan1 add four onions1 a bay-leaf1 two cloves1 three sprigs of parsley1 two of thyme1 salt1 and pepper2 about fifteen minutes before it is done1 add two or three mushrooms cut in slices1 take from the fire when cooked1 place the meat on a dish with the mushrooms and onions around1 or if preferred1 without either2 strain the sauce on the meat1 and serve4 ,if the sauce is not thick enough1 mix the yolk of an egg in it just before serving4 ,roasted4--,roast and serve the hind-quarter in the same way as directed for the fore-quarter4 ,baked4--,bake and serve it also in the same and every way like the fore-quarter4 ,epigramme4--,put a breast of lamb in a saucepan1 cover it with cold water1 season with a small onion and one clove stuck in it1 two stalks of parsley1 a piece of carrot1 one of turnip1 and salt4 ,boil gently till you can pull off the bones easily4 ,it may also be boiled in the soup-kettle while making broth4 ,when the bones come off easily1 take from the fire1 pull out all the small bones and cut out the large one4 ,place the breast in a large bakepan1 with some weight over so as to flatten it1 and leave it so till perfectly cold4 ,then cut it in pieces of rhombic shape about four inches long and two inches broad2 salt and pepper each piece on both sides2 dip them in beaten egg1 roll in bread-crumbs and fry them with a little butter1 and serve on a tomato1 piquante1 ravigote1 or soubise sauce1 or on any puree4 ,when the sauce is spread on the dish1 place the pieces of lamb all around it1 one lapping over the other1 and forming a kind of oblong string1 and serve warm4 ,another4--,when the epigramme is prepared as above and ready to be served1 have as many mutton-chops as you have pieces of meat from the breast2 dish in the same way1 except that you put one piece of the breast and then a mutton-chop fried in the same way as the pieces of meat2 the chops lapping over the pieces of breast1 and vice versa4 ,broiled4--,the same may be broiled instead of fried1 and served in the same way4 ,roasted entire4--,skewer a lamb properly on the spit1 envelop it with buttered paper1 place before a good fire1 baste often with melted butter first1 and then with the drippings2 when nearly done take the paper off1 let the lamb take a fine color around1 and serve it with the gravy4 ,it may be served with a garniture around and decorated with skewers1 the same as directed for fillet of beef2 it then makes a sightly as well as a delicious dish4 ,served with a garniture and decorated as directed for a fillet of beef1 it is served as a releve at a grand dinner1 and as an entree at a family dinner4 ,cold4--,cold lamb is served in every way like cold mutton4 ,a part left from a roasted piece may be enveloped in buttered paper1 put on the spit just long enough to warm it1 and served just in the same way as roast lamb4 ,lamb's head1 feet1 kidneys1 etc41 are prepared and served like the same parts of the sheep1 and as directed in the different receipts4 ,,kid4 ,prepare1 cook1 and serve kid the same as lamb4 ,,veal4 ,never buy too young veal4 ,it is very easy to know it2 when too young1 the bones are very tender2 they are more like nerves than bones2 the meat is gluish1 and has little or no taste4 ,epicures say that if a calf is killed before it is two months old1 or at least six weeks1 it is not fit for eating4 ,we are of that opinion1 although1 perhaps1 very few are allowed so long a life4 ,we will therefore recommend our readers to beware buying too young veal2 many diseases1 especially in children1 come from eating it4 ,when you broil or roast a piece of veal1 baste often4 ,veal is better when a little overdone2 it is not good1 and operates like physic1 if underdone4 ,the best veal is that of a greenish color and very fat4 ,it is fresh when the eyes are full and smooth1 and when the meat is firm4 ,if the meat is yellowish or contains yellowish spots1 it is not fresh4 ,the veins must be red4 ,to improve4--,chop fine a tablespoonful of parsley1 a teaspoonful of shallots1 same of green onions1 a bay-leaf1 two sprigs of thyme1 two or three mushrooms1 add to them1 salt1 pepper1 a little grated nutmeg2 cover the bottom of a tureen with half of each1 put on it the piece of veal you wish to improve1 cover with the other half of the seasonings2 then pour gently on the whole two tablespoonfuls of sweet-oil2 leave the veal thus about four or five hours in winter and about two in summer4 ,,roasted4 ,the pieces of veal that are roasted are the loin1 leg1 and shoulder4 ,it may be improved as directed above or not1 according to taste2 but we earnestly recommend it as not a little improvement1 but as a marked one1 as everybody can try it and judge1 veal being naturally tasteless4 ,there are three ways of roasting veal4 ,we will describe them1 so that it can be done according to taste4 #a4 ,spread a thin coat of butter around the piece of veal after being salted all around1 put on the spit before a good but not very sharp fire2 near it1 but not too much so3 veal being more tender than beef1 it would also burn much quicker4 ,baste often with melted butter first1 and then with the drippings1 and from the beginning to the end4 ,when done1 that is1 when overdone1 as veal must always be1 serve with the gravy only1 or in the different ways described below4 #b4 ,lard all the fleshy parts of the piece of veal with a larding-needle and strips of salt pork1 the same as a fillet of beef1 but which strips you roll in a mixture of parsley chopped1 salt and pepper1 before running them into the meat1 and proceed as above for the rest4 ,serve also like the above4 #c4 ,after the piece of veal is improved as directed1 spread the seasonings in which it has been improved all around it1 then envelop the whole in buttered paper1 which you fasten with twine1 put it on the spit1 and baste often with melted butter4 ,it must be basted often to prevent the paper from burning4 ,about fifteen minutes before it is done1 remove the paper1 put the meat a little nearer the fire so as to give it a fine yellow or golden color1 finish the cooking till overdone1 and serve also like the first1 or ,no4 #a4 ,no matter which of these three ways the piece of veal is roasted1 it is served in the same manner4 ,with ,asparagus4--,when the roasted piece of veal is dished1 put a puree of asparagus all around1 and serve warm4 ,with ,peas4--,spread one pint or one quart 7according to the size of the piece of meat7 of green peas au jus1 on a dish2 place the meat on the peas1 spread the gravy over the whole1 and serve as warm as possible4 ,with ,quenelles4--,dish the roasted piece1 place around it six or eight quenelles of chicken or of veal1 strain the gravy on the whole1 and serve warm4 ,with ,vegetables4--,when roasted and dished1 put any kind of vegetables1 prepared au jus1 all around the piece of meat1 and serve warm4 ,with ,sweetbreads4--,roast the piece of veal as directed1 and when dished1 place six sweetbreads1 prepared au jus1 tastefully around the meat2 strain the gravy over1 and serve very warm4 ,decorated4--,every piece of roasted veal may be decorated with skewers1 either served au jus or in any of the above ways4 ,the skewers are first run through either of the following and then stuck into the piece of meat3 slices of truffles2 chicken-combs1 prepared as for garniture2 slices of sweetbreads or whole ones1 prepared au jus2 quenelles of chicken or of veal2 slices of carrots1 turnips1 beets1 all prepared au jus2 and mushrooms4 ,one1 two1 three1 or more to every skewer2 for instance3 one slice of truffle1 then one of turnip1 a chicken-comb1 then a slice of sweetbread or a whole one1 and then stick in the meat4 ,from two to six skewers may be used4 ,on a large piece never put less than two1 and no matter how many you use1 always have even numbers of them4 ,,baked4 ,all the parts of veal that are roasted1 that is1 the loin1 leg1 and shoulder1 can be baked4 ,they may be improved in the same way as to roast them4 ,put the piece of veal in a bakepan2 spread salt1 pepper1 and butter on it2 cover the bottom of the pan with cold water1 about a quarter of an inch in depth2 place a piece of buttered paper on the meat1 and put in a warm oven4 ,if the meat has been improved1 the seasonings are spread over it before placing the buttered paper4 ,baste often with the water and juice in the pan and over the paper1 which you need not remove till about ten minutes before taking from the oven1 or in case it should burn2 then you must replace it by another4 ,it keeps the top of the meat moist1 and it is more juicy when done4 ,when properly baked 7overdone1 as every piece of veal must be71 serve either au jus1 or with the same garnitures1 the same decorations1 as directed for roasted veal4 ,the gravy in the bakepan is strained1 the fat skimmed off1 and then it is turned over the meat and garnitures when dished1 the same as the drippings or gravy of roast meat4 ,in case the water in the bakepan1 or the juice1 or both1 should boil away or be absorbed1 put more cold water in it1 so as to be able to baste4 ,,blanquette4--7,also called ,poulette47 ,take about two pounds of neck1 breast1 shoulder1 or any other piece1 which cut in pieces1 two inches square1 throw them in boiling water1 with a little salt1 for five minutes1 and drain them4 ,put in a stewpan a piece of butter the size of an egg1 set it on a good fire1 and when melted mix in a tablespoonful of flour1 stirring all the time1 and when turning yellow pour gently and slowly in the pan a pint of boiling water2 add a teaspoonful of chopped parsley and green onions1 salt1 pepper1 six small white or red onions1 two or three mushrooms1 and then the meat2 boil gently about three hours1 and serve4 ,,croquettes4 ,proceed as for chicken croquettes in every particular1 except that you use cold veal instead of cold chicken4 ,,ragout4 ,the neck and breast pieces are generally used to make a ragout1 but any other piece may be used4 ,take about three pounds of veal1 which cut in pieces about two inches square4 ,put two ounces of butter in a saucepan1 set it on the fire1 and as soon as the butter is melted1 lay the meat in1 stir now and then till of a golden color1 and then take the meat from the pan4 ,leave the pan on the fire1 and put in it a tablespoonful of flour1 little by little1 keep stirring about five minutes2 add also half a pint of broth1 same of warm water1 one onion with a clove stuck in it1 a bay leaf1 two sprigs of thyme1 two of parsley1 a clove of garlic1 a small carrot cut in two or three pieces1 salt and pepper1 then the meat1 and cover the pan4 ,half an hour after your meat is in1 fry in butter in a frying-pan six small onions1 which you also put in the stewpan as soon as fried4 ,when the whole is cooked1 place the meat on a dish1 strain the sauce on it1 surround the whole with the six small onions1 and serve warm4 ,in ,scallops4--,take a piece from the loin or leg of veal1 cut it in pieces about three inches long1 two inches broad1 and one-third of an inch thick1 as evenly as possible1 and flatten them with a chopper4 ,salt and pepper them on both sides1 and fry them with a little butter till about half done1 on both sides alike4 ,add a little broth and chopped parsley1 and boil gently till done4 ,place the pieces of veal all around the platter1 one lapping over another1 turn the sauce in the middle of them1 and serve4 ,another4--,cut the veal in pieces as for the above2 beat one or two eggs in a plate with salt1 pepper1 and chopped parsley2 dip each piece into it and then roll in bread-crumbs2 butter a bakepan1 place the veal in with a small lump of butter on each piece1 and bake2 turn over to bake evenly4 ,serve as the above1 with a piquante or tomato sauce in the middle4 ,,breast1 ,,stewed4 ,cut in dice two ounces of bacon1 put it in a stewpan and set on a good fire2 add two ounces of butter1 and two onions cut in slices2 when melted1 lay the breast in1 turn it over and leave till of a golden color on both sides2 add then two small carrots cut in pieces1 one teaspoonful of chopped green onions1 three sprigs of parsley1 half a turnip1 salt1 and pepper2 moisten with half a pint of warm water2 leave thus about three hours on a moderate fire4 ,strain the juice in a dish1 put the meat on it1 and serve4 ,the pieces of carrots and of bacon may be served with the meat1 if you choose4 ,the same1 with ,green ,peas4--,cut the breast in square pieces about two inches in size4 ,put in a stewpan a piece of butter the size of an egg1 and set it on the fire2 when melted1 mix in it a teaspoonful of flour1 then lay the meat in1 and wet with half a glass of broth1 same of warm water1 also two sprigs of parsley1 salt1 and pepper2 stir now and then4 ,one hour after add green peas1 and leave on the fire till the whole is cooked1 when skim off the fat on the surface1 and serve4 ,in ,matelote4--,to make a matelote of veal any piece can be used1 but most generally it is made with a breast or neck piece4 ,cut the veal in square pieces about two inches in size2 have in a stewpan and on a good fire a piece of butter about the size of an egg2 when melted1 put the meat in1 stir now and then till of a golden color2 then take the meat from the stewpan1 which you leave on the fire1 and in which you put half a pint of warm water1 same of claret wine1 same of broth1 a bay-leaf1 two cloves1 two sprigs of parsley1 one of thyme1 a clove of garlic1 salt1 and pepper2 when turning brown1 put the meat back in the pan1 and fifteen minutes before it is cooked add also ten small onions fried in butter beforehand and four or five mushrooms1 then have a brisk fire to finish the cooking2 place the meat on a dish1 strain the sauce on the meat1 put the ten small onions around it1 and serve4 ,broiled4--,salt and pepper both sides of the breast of veal1 grease it all over with melted butter1 by means of a brush1 and broil till overdone4 ,serve with a maitre d'hotel1 piquante1 or poivrade sauce4 ,,cutlets4 ,broiled4--,when properly trimmed1 they may be improved as directed for veal4 ,salt and pepper both sides2 spread a little melted butter on both sides also by means of a brush2 place them on1 before1 or under the fire 7see ,broiling72 baste now and then with melted butter2 turn over one1 two1 or three times1 and when rather overdone serve with a maitre d'hotel sauce spread all over4 ,the above way of serving them is sometimes called au naturel4 ,with ,crumbs4--,when trimmed1 dip them in egg beaten with salt1 pepper1 and chopped parsley1 roll them in bread-crumbs1 and then broil and serve them as the above1 with a maitre d'hotel4 ,fines ,herbes4--,broil the chops as above1 either with or without crumbs1 and serve them with sauce aux fines herbes4 ,a l',italienne4--,when broiled as above1 serve them on a layer of macaroni ,italienne4 ,with ,mushrooms4--,when broiled and dished1 surround them with a garniture of mushrooms1 and serve warm4 ,when there are several cutlets on the dish1 and placed all around overlapping1 the garniture may be put in the middle of the chops4 ,do the same with the following garnitures3 chicken-combs1 croutons1 duxelle1 financiere1 ,macedoine1 and onion4 ,they may also be served on any puree4 ,baked4--,trim six cutlets4 ,mix well half a pound of sausage-meat with two eggs4 ,put a piece of buttered paper large enough to cover the bottom of a bakepan in which the six cutlets may be laid easily4 ,spread half the sausage-meat on the paper in the pan1 then lay the cutlets in it2 put the other half of the sausage-meat over the cutlets1 and place the whole in a rather quick oven4 ,baste every five minutes with melted butter and broth1 using them alternately1 and serve warm with the gravy when done4 ,a few drops of lemon-juice may be added to them when on the dish1 if liked4 ,sautees4--,trim1 and fry them with a little butter4 ,when done on both sides1 add a little broth1 salt1 pepper1 and mushrooms and parsley chopped fine2 chopped truffles may be added1 if handy2 boil gently for about ten minutes4 ,place the cutlets around the dish1 one lapping over the other1 turn the sauce in the middle1 sprinkle some lemon-juice over the whole1 and serve warm4 ,with ,sauce4--,when broiled1 baked1 or sauted1 they may be dished and served with either of the following sauces3 fines herbes1 maitre d'hotel1 piquante1 poivrade1 ravigote1 tarragon1 tomato1 or truffle4 ,en ,bellevue4--,proceed the same as for fillet of beef en ,bellevue4 ,in ,papillotes4--,trim six veal-chops1 spread salt and pepper on them1 and fry them with a little butter till about half done4 ,take from the fire1 and cut a small hole in the middle with a paste-cutter4 ,while they are frying1 fry with a little butter one onion chopped fine2 as soon as fried1 add half a pound of sausage-meat2 stir now and then for about five minutes2 add also a pinch of cinnamon1 same of nutmeg2 take off and mix with the whole one yolk of egg1 a tablespoonful of chopped parsley1 salt1 and pepper4 ,cut six pieces of white paper of a heart-like shape1 and large enough to envelop a chop2 grease them slightly with butter or sweet-oil2 place some sausage-meat on one side of the paper 7say half a tablespoonful71 place a chop on it2 put some sausage-meat on the chop and in the hole2 fold the paper in two2 then1 by folding all around the border1 the chop and seasonings are perfectly enveloped in the paper2 put the chops in a baking-pan1 spread a few drops of oil all over1 and bake for about fifteen minutes in an oven at about #bej deg4 ,fahr4 ,instead of baking them1 broil them carefully turning them over often and basting them to prevent the paper from burning1 and serve with the paper on4 ,they may be served on a duxelle garniture1 or with a puree4 ,fricandeau4--,take a piece of veal of any size1 from the leg1 loin1 or cutlet piece1 about three-quarters of an inch in thickness1 lard one side with salt pork1 the same as a fillet of beef4 ,put in a saucepan 7for two pounds of meat7 one ounce of butter1 half a middling-sized onion1 and as much carrot in slices1 two or three stalks of parsley1 one of thyme1 a bay-leaf1 six or eight pepper-corns1 and rind of the pork you have used2 spread all these seasonings on the bottom of the saucepan1 put the piece of veal on them1 the larded side up1 set on a good fire for about fifteen minutes2 after which you look if the under side of the meat is well browned2 if so1 add a gill of broth1 put in the oven and baste often1 if not1 leave a little longer on the fire4 ,add a little broth once in a while1 to keep the bottom of the pan wet1 and to have enough to baste till a little overdone1 and serve with the gravy strained all over it4 ,it is then called au jus4 ,with ,spinach4--,prepare and cook the fricandeau as above2 and when done1 put some broth in the pan after having taken off the meat2 give one boil2 turn in the spinach au jus2 stir on the fire one minute2 dish the spinach2 place the fricandeau on it1 and serve4 ,with ,sorrel4--,proceed as with spinach in every particular1 except that you serve on sorrel au jus instead of spinach4 ,it makes a more delicate dish with sorrel1 although excellent with spinach4 ,it may also be served with green peas au jus or a l'anglaise4 ,financiere4--,when prepared1 cooked1 and dished as directed1 surround it with a financiere garniture1 and serve warm4 ,jardiniere4--,after being cooked and dished1 put a ,macedoine garniture around it1 and serve warm4 ,,shoulder4 ,boned4--,lay the shoulder on the table1 the inside up1 split it just in the middle1 lengthwise1 and following the middle of the bones2 remove the flat bone at the larger end first4 ,do the same for the remaining bone4 ,then spread the shoulder open1 and salt and pepper it4 ,fill the inside with sausage-meat2 roll it of a round shape1 and when properly tied with twine1 roast or bake it1 as directed for roasted or baked veal4 ,it is then dished1 decorated1 and served in the same and every way as directed for roasted pieces of veal4 ,it is an excellent dish served on either of the following purees3 beans1 celery1 lentils1 peas1 potatoes1 sorrel1 spinach1 or tomatoes4 ,when served on a puree1 it may be decorated with skewers1 the same as when served with a garniture4 ,it may also be served with a piquante or poivrade sauce4 ,stuffed4--,bone the shoulder as directed above2 spread it open1 and salt and pepper it1 also as directed4 ,spread a coat of sausage-meat on it1 about one-third of an inch in thickness1 then put a layer of salt pork on the sausage-meat2 then a layer of boiled ham2 again a layer of sausage-meat2 on this a layer of beef or sheep's tongue1 boiled4 ,the ham and tongue are cut in square fillets1 about one-fourth of an inch broad and about two inches long4 ,the tongues may be fresh or salted1 according to taste4 ,when filled1 roll it so as to give it a round shape2 wrap it up in a towel and drop it in boiling water1 to which you have added salt4 ,boil gently for about four hours1 take the kettle from the fire and let cool4 ,when cold take the shoulder off1 wipe it dry and serve with meat jelly4 ,the jelly is chopped1 or cut in fancy shapes1 or both4 ,some chopped jelly may be placed all around the meat1 and some cut in fancy shapes with a paste-cutter or with a knife1 and placed over it4 ,it may also be decorated with skewers1 as directed for roasted pieces of veal4 ,en ,bellevue4--,when boiled and cold1 prepare it like a fillet of beef en ,bellevue1 and serve4 ,,loin ,,or ,,leg ,,stewed4 ,have in a stewpan and on a slow fire three or four tablespoonfuls of sweet-oil2 when hot put the loin in1 turn it over till of a yellow color all around1 then add a bay-leaf1 salt1 pepper1 and a pint of warm water2 simmer four hours1 and serve with the following sauce1 which you must have prepared at the same time3 ,fry in butter till of a golden color ten middling-sized onions1 then add to them half a glass of claret wine1 two tablespoonfuls of broth1 and two of the juice of the loin1 ten mushrooms 7if handy72 simmer till cooked1 and strain4 ,mix the sauce with the juice of the loin1 and put it on a dish1 place the loin upon it1 and serve with the onions and mushrooms around the meat4 ,in case the juice of the loin should be found too fat1 throw in it 7and before mixing it with the sauce7 a few drops of cold water1 and skim off the fat4 ,the only thing to throw away before mixing is the bay-leaf4 ,another way1 or prepared with a ,garniture of ,cabbages4--,put in a stewpan and set on a good fire a piece of butter the size of an egg2 when melted1 add four onions and two small carrots1 cut in slices2 fry them two or three minutes1 then put the loin in1 with half a bay-leaf1 wet with warm broth2 then subdue the fire1 let simmer about two hours and a half2 strain the sauce on a dish1 place the meat on it1 and serve with a garniture of cabbages around4 ,,cold ,,veal4 ,cut the meat in slices and serve them on a dish1 arranged according to fancy1 and serve with a piquante1 poivrade1 ,mayonnaise1 ,provencale1 ravigote1 or remolade sauce4 ,it may also be decorated and served like cold mutton1 in vinaigrette4 ,another way4--,put a piece of butter the size of an egg in a stewpan and set on a good fire1 mix in when melted two teaspoonfuls of flour1 stir till of a brownish color1 when add a saltspoonful of chopped parsley1 four leaves of tarragon1 salt1 pepper1 and half a pint of broth 7more or less of the above according to the quantity of meat you have left71 boil the whole fifteen minutes2 then1 if what you have left is from an entire piece1 cut it in slices1 lay them in the pan1 and serve when warm enough1 as it is4 ,if what you have left is in pieces or slices1 you merely place them in the pan and serve with the sauce when warm4 ,,brain4 ,to prepare4--,put the brain in a bowl of cold water and a tablespoonful of vinegar and leave it in from one to two or three hours1 that is1 till you are ready to use it1 but do not leave it more than five or six hours and not less than one hour4 ,take it off1 remove the thin skin and blood-vessels that are all around4 ,to boil4--,when prepared1 put the brain in a small saucepan1 cover it with cold water2 add two tablespoonfuls of vinegar1 half an onion sliced1 three stalks of parsley1 one of thyme1 a bay-leaf1 six pepper-corns1 one clove1 salt1 boil about five minutes and take off the fire4 ,cut each half of the brain in two1 from side to side2 place the four pieces on a dish1 the part cut upward4 ,au ,beurre ,noir4--,when dished as above directed1 put two ounces of butter in a frying-pan and when melted turn into it two tablespoonfuls of vinegar1 boil two or three minutes1 then throw into it half a dozen stalks of parsley1 take them off immediately with a skimmer1 turn the butter and vinegar over the brain2 spread the parsley around1 and serve4 ,stewed1 or in ,matelote4--,when prepared as directed1 put it in a small saucepan and cover it with claret wine2 add half an onion sliced1 one clove of garlic1 one clove1 two sprigs of parsley1 one of thyme1 salt1 a bay-leaf1 six pepper-corns1 and boil gently for about fifteen minutes4 ,cut and dish it as directed above2 turn the sauce over it through a strainer and serve--it is understood1 the sauce in which it has been cooked4 ,fried4--,prepare as directed1 cut in about six slices1 dip them in batter1 and fry in hot fat4 7,see direction for ,frying47 ,in ,poulette4--,prepare and boil it as directed1 split each half of the brain in two or four pieces1 place them tastefully on a dish1 spread a poulette sauce all over1 and serve warm4 ,it may also be prepared and served with a piquante sauce4 ,when the piquante sauce is made1 put the brain or brains in1 boil ten minutes1 and serve as it is4 ,,ears4 ,they are prepared in every way like calf's head4 ,,feet4 ,to boil4--,throw them in boiling water for five minutes1 split them in the middle and lengthwise after having taken off the large bone and hair1 and tie them with a string4 ,put a piece of butter the size of two walnuts in a stewpan and set it on the fire1 when melted add a teaspoonful of chopped parsley and green onions1 half of each1 a quarter of a lemon cut in slices1 salt1 and pepper1 then the feet2 wet with a glass of warm water2 boil gently two or three hours1 take from the fire and when nearly cold dip them in bread-crumbs1 place them on a gridiron and set on a good fire1 baste slightly with the juice in which they have cooked1 and serve with fried parsley around4 ,the same1 in ,poulette4--,prepare and cook them as above4 ,when you take them from the fire1 instead of dipping them in bread-crumbs1 put them in a poulette sauce1 simmer ten minutes1 and serve4 ,fried4--,when boiled and drained dry1 dip them in beaten egg1 roll in bread-crumbs1 fry in hot fat1 and serve with green parsley all around4 ,in ,vinaigrette4--,boil them as directed and drain them dry4 ,when perfectly cold1 serve them with a vinaigrette4 ,,calf',s ,,head4 ,how to prepare4--,when the hair is off and the whole head well cleaned 7this is generally done by butchers2 but if not1 throw the head in boiling water for five minutes and scrape the hair off with a knife immediately after taking it from the water71 put it then in cold water for twenty-four hours in winter and ten in summer1 changing the water two or three times4 ,to boil4--,it may be boiled whole or after it is boned4 ,if boiled whole1 cut a hole on the top of the head and take off the brain without breaking it2 put it in cold water immediately and as directed4 ,then set the head on the fire in a saucepan1 covered with cold water1 salt1 one onion sliced1 half a lemon1 four stalks of parsley1 one of thyme1 a bay-leaf1 two cloves1 two cloves of garlic1 ten pepper-corns1 and two tablespoonfuls of vinegar2 boil gently till done4 ,bone it before using it4 ,when boiled after being boned1 the brain is taken off in the same way as above and put in cold water also2 then the tongue is cut out and boiled with the skin of the head1 etc41 with the same seasonings as when boiled whole4 ,it is then ready for use1 but leave it in the water till wanted2 it would become tough if exposed to the air4 ,in ,poulette4--,put about two ounces of butter in a saucepan1 set it on the fire1 when melted turn in one tablespoonful of flour2 stir1 and as soon as it commences to turn yellow add half a pint of broth1 stir again1 and when thickening1 add the calf's head cut in rather large dice1 give one boil1 take from the fire1 add the yolk of an egg and about a teaspoonful of chopped parsley1 stir1 give another boil1 and serve4 ,in ,vinaigrette4--,leave it in the water till perfectly cold2 or1 if wanted immediately1 as soon as boiled1 take it off and put in cold water to cool1 and use4 ,cut the head in large dice and serve it with oil1 vinegar1 salt1 pepper1 mustard1 and parsley chopped4 ,broiled4--,prepare and boil the calf's head as directed4 ,as soon as cool1 cut it in about half a dozen pieces1 dip them in beaten eggs1 roll them in bread-crumbs1 and broil both sides till turning of a golden color2 serve warm with a maitre d'hotel sauce1 or with anchovy or horse-radish butter4 ,fried4--,calf's head may be fried as soon as prepared and boiled2 but most generally1 it is only what has been left from the day before that is fried4 ,cut it in small pieces about two inches square1 dip them in melted butter1 roll them in bread-crumbs1 and fry them in hot fat4 ,serve hot1 adding lemon-juice when the pieces of calf's head are on the dish4 ,en ,tortue1 or ,turtle-like4--,there are two ways of preparing calf's head en tortue3 #a4 ,when it is prepared and boiled as directed above1 drain it dry1 cut it in pieces as for frying it2 put them in a saucepan with one ounce of butter1 set on the fire1 stir for two minutes1 add nearly a pint of ,madeira wine1 simmer gently for about half an hour2 dish the meat1 add a little lemon-juice all over1 and serve warm4 ,some quenelles of chicken may be placed all around1 as a decoration2 or a garniture of mushrooms4 #b4 ,prepare and boil the calf's head2 drain it dry and cut it in pieces about two inches square4 ,dish the pieces either mound-like1 or around the dish1 one lapping over the other1 and turn the following over it1 and serve warm3 ,put a financiere garniture in a saucepan with a pint of ,madeira wine1 set on the fire and boil gently for about twenty minutes2 take from the fire1 spread over the pieces of calf's head1 and serve4 ,some hard-boiled eggs cut in four or eight pieces1 lengthwise1 may be placed all around the dish2 or some pickled cucumbers1 cut in fancy pieces1 or some quenelles of veal or chicken4 ,,heart4 ,to prepare4--,soak it in lukewarm water for about three hours1 trim it and free it from skin1 blood1 and small fibres2 then drain and wipe it dry4 ,stuff or fill it with sausage-meat1 to which you add previously two or three onions chopped fine4 ,to cook4--,when thus prepared1 envelop it in buttered paper1 set on the spit before a good fire1 baste often1 remove the paper a few minutes before taking it from the fire1 then serve warm with a piquante1 poivrade1 or ravigote sauce4 ,it may also be served with a vinaigrette4 ,to bake4--,when prepared as directed above1 put it in a baking-pan2 spread a little butter over1 put a little water in the bakepan and set in a quick oven1 baste and turn over two or three times1 and when done1 serve with the gravy and the same sauces as if it were roasted4 ,in ,gratin4--,soak1 drain and wipe it dry as directed4 ,cut it in slices and put them in a crockery or other pan2 turn a white sauce all over1 then sprinkle on half a gill of vinegar or the juice of a lemon1 dust with bread-crumbs1 put half a dozen lumps of butter1 each about the size of a hazelnut1 all over2 bake in a rather quick oven4 ,,kidneys4 ,saute4--,when prepared as directed below1 cut it in pieces as directed for kidney in brochettes4 ,then put a piece of butter the size of half an egg in a frying-pan and set it on the fire2 when melted1 sprinkle in a teaspoonful of flour1 stirring with a wooden spoon the while1 add half a wine-glass of white wine1 a tablespoonful of broth1 a pinch of chopped parsley1 salt and pepper1 boil ten minutes and lay the fillets in2 have a quick fire1 and as soon as cooked dish them1 spread the sauce over1 sprinkle on a few drops of lemon-juice1 and serve4 ,to prepare4--,never cook a kidney except it be very fresh4 ,prepare in the following way1 a beef1 sheep1 or calf's kidney4 ,pig's kidneys are excellent if they have no disagreeable taste1 but it is very often the case4 ,the bad taste may be partly taken away by blanching the kidney1 but it makes it tough and tasteless2 it is better to throw it away4 ,in ,brochettes4--,split the kidney in four lengthwise1 and then cut it in rather small pieces4 ,cut fat salt pork in pieces of the same size as the pieces of kidney--the fatty part of the kidney must not be used--then salt and pepper the pieces of kidney2 take a common skewer and run it through a piece of kidney1 then through a piece of salt pork2 repeat this till the skewer is full4 ,fill as many skewers as are necessary till the whole kidney is used2 and then roast before a good fire1 basting often with melted butter4 ,serve warm4 ,another way4--,prepare as above1 and instead of roasting1 put the skewers in a bake-pan1 spread a little butter over the kidney and salt pork1 cover the bottom of the pan only with cold water1 and bake4 ,while in the oven1 turn over and baste occasionally4 ,serve as the above1 with its gravy1 and warm4 ,another4--,skewer the kidney1 or rather pieces of kidney and salt pork as above2 dip them in beaten egg1 roll them in bread-crumbs1 and fry them in hot fat4 ,serve warm1 but without gravy4 ,,lights4 ,cut them in four pieces1 soak and wash them three or four times in lukewarm water1 changing the water each time2 press them with the hands to extract all the blood4 ,place the lights in a stewpan1 cover them with cold water1 and set on a good fire2 boil two minutes1 take them off1 throw them in cold water1 and drain them2 cut the lights in dice4 ,have butter in a stewpan on the fire1 and when melted1 lay the lights in1 fry five minutes1 keeping them tossed the while1 then sprinkle on a tablespoonful of flour1 stirring all the time with a wooden spoon2 pour on1 little by little1 about a pint of warm broth1 also a saltspoonful of chopped parsley1 a pinch of allspice1 salt1 pepper1 a bay-leaf1 and sprig of thyme2 have a brisk fire1 and when about half done1 add four or five mushrooms1 and eight small onions4 ,when the whole is cooked1 take off bay-leaf and thyme1 then take from the fire1 beat two yolks of eggs with a tablespoonful of vinegar1 and mix with the whole1 turn on a dish1 and serve4 ,,calf',s ,,liver4 ,how to prepare4--,have water1 with a little salt1 on the fire1 and at the first boiling1 throw the liver in for about five minutes1 and drain it4 ,how to improve the ,liver before cooking it4--,put in a tureen two tablespoonfuls of sweet-oil1 a bay-leaf broken in four pieces1 two sprigs of thyme1 four of parsley chopped fine1 a green onion also chopped fine1 salt1 and pepper2 lay the liver on the whole1 and leave it from four to six hours1 turning it over two or three times4 ,how to cook1 roasted4--,envelop the liver with buttered paper1 place it on the spit before a good fire1 baste often with the oil from the tureen1 after having taken off bay-leaf and thyme4 ,a few minutes before it is done1 take the paper off1 baste continually with the drippings till well cooked1 and serve it with the gravy4 ,it may also be served with a piquante or poivrade sauce4 ,it takes from thirty-five to forty-five minutes to roast it4 ,the same1 saute4--,put two ounces of butter in a frying-pan1 and set it on a sharp fire2 when melted1 add a teaspoonful of chopped parsley and green onions1 then the liver cut in slices 7after having been prepared as above72 sprinkle on a saltspoonful of flour1 then half a wine-glass of warm broth1 same of claret wine1 salt1 pepper1 and a pinch of allspice2 serve when done4 ,it takes only from ten to twelve minutes for the whole process4 ,the same1 in the ,oven4--,put two ounces of butter in a frying-pan on a sharp fire2 when hot1 put the liver in 7after having been boiled as directed above1 and after having cut it in pieces72 fry it five minutes1 turning over once only2 then take from the fire1 salt both sides of the slices1 place them on a warm dish1 putting on each slice a little butter kneaded with chopped parsley1 salt1 and pepper2 put two or three minutes in a warm oven1 take off1 sprinkle on the whole the juice of half a lemon1 and serve in the dish in which it has cooked4 ,the same1 stewed4--,boil the liver as directed above1 and when drained and cold1 lard it well4 ,have butter in a frying-pan on a brisk fire2 when hot1 put the liver in for about five minutes1 turning it over on every side4 ,have in a stewpan four ounces of bacon cut in dice2 set it on a good fire1 and when hot1 lay the liver in2 then add a glass of warm broth1 same of white wine1 a bay-leaf1 a sprig of thyme1 two of parsley1 a clove of garlic1 two cloves1 and a small carrot cut in two2 cover the stewpan1 subdue the fire1 and let simmer three hours2 stir now and then1 place the liver on a dish1 strain the sauce on it1 and serve4 ,,calf',s ,,pluck4 ,put the pluck in cold water for twelve hours in winter and four in summer2 change the water once1 drain1 and throw it in boiling water for ten or fifteen minutes2 take off and throw in cold water to cool1 and drain it4 ,cut the pluck in pieces1 and cook it like calf's head1 and serve with the same sauce4 ,,calf',s ,,tail4 ,take two tails1 cut each in two1 throw them in boiling water for three minutes1 and drain4 ,cut a cabbage in two1 trim off the stump1 throw the two halves in boiling water1 with a little salt1 for fifteen minutes1 and drain it4 ,put in a tureen the tails1 cabbage1 six ounces of lean bacon1 two sprigs of parsley chopped fine1 same quantity of green onions1 two cloves1 a little piece of nutmeg1 a clove of garlic1 salt1 and pepper2 cover the whole with half broth and half water1 and boil gently till cooked4 ,then take off cloves1 nutmeg1 and garlic1 turn the remainder on a dish1 and serve4 ,,tongue4 ,prepare1 cook1 and serve a calf's tongue1 in the same and every way like a fresh beef's tongue4 ,the only difference is1 that1 being smaller1 it is seldom decorated4 ,it may be split in two1 lengthwise and nearly through1 opened and served thus1 with slices of pickled cucumbers4 ,,sweetbreads4 ,to prepare4--,soak them in cold water for about an hour4 ,take off and remove the skin and bloody vessels that are all around4 ,for two sweetbreads set about one pint of water on the fire in a small saucepan with salt1 a tablespoonful of vinegar1 a few slices of onion1 six pepper-corns1 a clove of garlic1 two cloves1 six sprigs of parsley1 one of thyme1 and a bay-leaf2 boil two minutes1 drop the sweetbreads in1 boil one minute and take them off4 ,drop them immediately in cold water and leave them in for from two minutes to an hour4 ,put them on a flat surface with a board over1 and leave them thus till they are perfectly cold and rather flattened4 ,au ,jus4--,trim them a little1 so as to give them a better appearance4 ,lard the top or smooth side1 then butter the bottom of a pan1 spread a few slices of onion on the butter2 add a bay-leaf1 a clove1 two stalks of parsley2 place the sweetbreads on the whole1 the larded side up1 cover the pan and set on a good fire1 or in a rather warm oven2 about ten minutes after1 add two or three tablespoonfuls of broth1 baste now and then till done4 ,if the broth is absorbed before the sweetbreads are done1 add some more4 ,dish the sweetbreads1 turn the gravy over them through a strainer1 and serve4 ,another way4--,prepare as above directed2 then1 instead of larding it1 you knead well together two ounces of butter1 a teaspoonful of shallots and parsley well chopped1 half a clove of garlic1 salt1 and pepper2 place the whole in a stewpan1 with the sweetbreads on it1 and thin slices of bacon on the sweetbreads2 set the pan on a good fire1 and add then half a glass of broth1 same of white wine2 simmer till cooked2 dish the sweetbreads1 throw a few drops of cold water in the sauce1 skim off the fat1 strain the sauce on the sweetbreads1 and serve4 ,when the sweetbreads au jus are dished as directed1 place tastefully1 all around1 either of the following garnitures3 cauliflower1 chicken-combs1 duxelle1 financiere1 mushrooms1 liver1 ,macedoine1 quenelles1 and truffles4 ,besides these garnitures1 the sweetbreads may be decorated with small skewers1 run through a boiled craw-fish and a small quenelle of chicken or of veal4 ,one or two skewers may be stuck in each sweetbread4 ,the sweetbreads1 when several are served at a time1 may be placed on the dish1 either around it1 forming a kind of crown1 or forming a pyramid1 or in any other way1 according to fancy4 ,they may also be served with a sauce fines herbes4 ,,pork4 ,,to ,,select4 ,when the rind is tender and thin1 the pork is young2 when thick and hard1 it is old4 ,to be good1 the meat must be soft1 and have a fresh and good appearance4 ,we do not think it necessary to indicate here how to make black puddings1 chitterlings1 ,bologna1 and other sausages4 ,it is nearly1 if not quite impossible1 for a person having no practice in it1 to make them edible2 it is better to buy them ready made at pork-butchers' shops1 or to hire an experienced person to make them4 ,,chine ,,and ,,fillet4 ,take a good chine of pork1 place it on the spit before a sharp fire1 baste often with a little melted butter first1 and then with the drippings2 when properly cooked1 serve it with a vinaigrette1 ,robert1 piquante1 or poivrade sauce4 ,it will take from two to three or four hours to roast1 according to the size of the chine4 ,,how ,,to ,,improve ,,the ,,chine ,,of ,,pork4 ,place it in a crockery vessel1 pour on it two tablespoonfuls of sweet-oil1 then sprinkle on two teaspoonfuls or chopped parsley1 also salt and pepper1 two onions chopped fine1 four cloves1 and two bay-leaves2 leave thus twenty-four hours in winter1 and ten in summer1 turning over two or three times4 ,the taste of the meat is much improved by that process4 ,the oil may be used for basting instead of butter4 ,baked4--,put the chine in a bakepan1 sprinkle salt over it1 coyer the bottom of the pan with cold water1 and put in a rather quick oven1 baste often1 and in case there should be much fat in the pan1 take it off and add a little cold water4 ,when overdone1 serve with any of the following purees3 beans1 lentils1 ,lima beans1 onions1 peas1 potatoes1 sorrel1 or spinach4 ,it may also be served with the following sauces3 fines herbes1 piquante1 poivrade1 ,provencale1 ravigote1 remolade1 ,robert1 tarragon1 ,tartar1 and vinaigrette4 ,it is served also with a tomato-sauce4 ,make more sauce for pork than for other dishes1 and make the tomato-sauce rather thick by boiling it gently for some time2 it tastes better so with pork4 ,always use mustard with pork1 if you like it4 ,horse-radish1 also1 is good with it4 ,,cutlets4 ,flatten the cutlets with a chopper 7they may be improved in the same way as the chine71 place them on the gridiron and set on a sharp fire2 turn over two or three times1 and when properly done1 serve them with a piquante1 ,robert1 or tomato-sauce1 adding to them some slices of pickled cucumbers just before serving4 ,the same1 sautees4--,instead of broiling them1 when prepared as above1 place them in a frying-pan with a little butter1 turn over two or three times during the cooking1 and serve as the above1 or on a puree of sorrel4 ,,leg1 ,,roasted4 ,how to improve it4--,take the skin or rind gently off1 put the leg in a crockery vessel1 pour on it the following mixture3 a pint of white wine1 two tablespoonfuls of sweet-oil1 a bunch of sage1 salt1 pepper1 and a pinch of grated nutmeg4 ,leave it thus two days in winter and one in summer1 turning it over two or three times during the process4 ,place the leg on the spit and put before a very sharp fire1 baste often with the mixture from the crockery vessel1 or with melted butter1 and serve when cooked1 with the gravy strained4 ,it will take about two or two and a half hours to roast it4 ,baked4--,bake and serve the leg in the same and every way as the chine1 with purees and sauces4 ,any part of pork is prepared like chine4 ,ham in hors-d'oeuvre4--,cut the ham in small and thin slices1 place the slices tastefully on a dish1 either overlapping or in pyramid1 or in any other fancy way1 and serve with parsley in the middle or around4 ,slices of lemon may also be served with it1 either with the parsley or without it4 ,,ham4 ,to boil4--,sugar-cured are preferred to others4 ,scrape off the outside gently1 soak in cold water for from six to twenty-four hours1 take off and wipe dry4 ,envelop it in a towel and tie it4 ,place it in a kettle large enough to hold it without bending it2 cover with cold water2 season with six small onions1 two carrots1 four cloves1 two bay-leaves1 a handful or two plants of parsley1 two or three stalks of thyme1 two of celery1 two cloves of garlic 7a handful of hay and half a bottle of white wine1 if handy would improve the taste72 boil gently for four or five hours1 according to the size 7four hours for a ten-pound one1 five for a fifteen-pound one74 ,pay no attention to the old saying that it takes half an hour to every pound4 ,take from the fire1 remove the towel1 break off and remove the small bone at the larger end of it1 and without tearing the meat4 ,remove the rind also1 leaving only about two inches of it near the smaller end1 cutting it so that it will be dentilated4 ,to decorate4--,it is decorated in several ways1 according to taste and fancy4 ,if the fat is not white after having removed the rind1 spread a very thin coat of lard over it1 place the ham on a dish1 the fatty side up4 ,cut carrots1 turnips1 and beets1 boiled tender1 in fancy shapes1 with paste-cutters or with a knife2 place them tastefully all over the ham2 place also all over it some parsley1 capers1 and olives4 ,chop some meat-jelly and put it all around the dish1 and serve4 ,in carving it1 scrape back the lard and vegetables1 slice1 and serve4 ,another4--,when boiled1 trimmed1 and the rind removed1 put it in the oven for about twenty minutes1 basting the while with a ,madeira sauce4 ,serve with the sauce4 ,any kind of puree may be served with it4 ,another4--,when trimmed and soaked in water as directed1 boil it with half wine and half water3 the same seasonings as when boiled in water4 ,use either ,catawba1 ,sauterne1 or ,rhine wine4 ,it makes it more expensive1 but it is excellent4 ,it is served as when boiled in water4 ,another4--,boil it in claret wine1 and when trimmed and decorated1 serve it with a mushroom or a truffle sauce4 ,another4--,boil1 trim1 and cut off the rind as described in the above cases2 place the frill1 and serve with spinach au beurre4 ,illustration3 ,a1 skewers2 ,b1 carrot2 ,c1 truffle or mushroom2 ,d1 jelly2 ,e1 frill4 ,another4--,boil and trim the ham as above1 cut the rind in the same way4 ,what is left of the rind is cut as seen in the cut opposite3 that is1 some small square pieces are cut off1 from place to place1 so that it resembles a checkerboard2 stick two or more skewers in it1 glaze it with essence of beef or with sugar1 and serve either on a tomato-sauce or on peas a l',anglaise4 ,ham ,english fashion4--,soak it in water and trim it as directed4 ,make some paste with water and flour only2 spread a coat of this paste all over the ham1 and then envelop it in buttered or oiled paper4 ,put it on the spit and baste with fat while it is roasting4 ,roast it for three or three and a half hours1 according to size2 remove the paper about two hours after it has been taken from the fire2 cut a hole in the paste about an inch in diameter and on the lean side2 pour into it1 little by little1 half a pint of good ,madeira wine1 cover the hole with some paste1 placing a band of paper on it to prevent it from falling2 put the ham back on the spit for about twenty minutes1 and serve whole with ,madeira sauce4 ,we mean1 by serving whole1 with the paste around it1 but not the paper4 ,besides the sauce1 some green vegetables1 boiled only1 are served on separate dishes1 but eaten with the ham4 ,it is also served like game1 with currant-jelly1 apple-sauce1 etc4 ,champagne ,sauce4--,proceed as for the above in every particular1 except that you use ,champagne instead of ,madeira wine1 and when done serve it with a ,champagne sauce4 ,another4--,it may be boiled as directed above1 and served with a ,champagne sauce also4 ,another4--,when soaked and dry1 put it in a crockery vessel2 put on and all around it four onions chopped fine1 two bay-leaves1 two sprigs of thyme1 a piece of nutmeg1 and pour on the whole a bottle of white wine2 cover the vessel as nearly air-tight as possible1 leave it thus for about twenty-four hours1 turning it over two or three times1 so as to let every side take the seasonings4 ,place the ham on the spit before a good fire1 baste often with the seasonings from the crockery vessel1 and when done take it off1 dust it with fine raspings of bread1 place it fifteen minutes in a slow oven1 strain the drippings1 boil them till reduced to a proper thickness1 dish the ham1 pour the drippings on it1 and serve4 ,,salted ,,pork4 ,the best and only proper way to cook salted pork1 is1 to put it in a kettle1 entirely cover it with cold water1 boil gently till cooked1 and serve it with a puree or with a garniture of cabbage4 ,any thing else that you might put with it would rather spoil than better it4 ,,pig',s ,,ears4 ,how to prepare4--,soak them in warm water for a few minutes1 then wash and clean them well1 and scrape the hair off1 if any4 ,boiled4--,when prepared1 you throw them in boiling water for two minutes and take from the fire2 add four onions for four ears1 one carrot1 salt and pepper2 leave just water enough to cover the whole1 and when cooked1 drain4 ,serve them on a puree of beans or of lentils4 ,the same1 broiled4--,when cleaned1 prepared1 and cooked as above1 just dip them in beaten eggs1 roll them in bread-crumbs1 place on the gridiron and on the fire1 broil for about two or three minutes2 then serve them with a maitre d'hotel sauce4 ,,pig',s ,,feet4 ,broiled1 or a la ,sainte ,menehould4--,split six feet in two1 lengthwise1 and soak them in tepid water for ten minutes1 then envelop each in a piece of linen well tied or sewed2 place them in a kettle or stewpan with four small onions1 four sprigs of parsley1 two of thyme1 two of sweet basil1 two bay-leaves1 two cloves of garlic1 two cloves1 two small carrots cut in pieces1 salt1 pepper1 and half a pint of white wine2 cover with cold water1 simmer about six hours1 skim them properly1 fill with boiling water so as to have them covered all the time2 take from the fire when cooked1 and when nearly cool take the feet from the kettle1 untie them1 throw away the linen1 and let them cool4 ,dip each in melted butter or in sweet-oil1 roll in bread-crumbs1 and place on a gridiron and on a good fire2 serve them as they are1 when properly broiled4 ,stuffed4--,prepare the feet and cook them as above4 ,when perfectly cold1 remove the long bone of each half1 fill the place with sausage-meat2 dip each in melted butter and yolk of egg1 mixed and seasoned with salt and pepper1 roll in bread-crumbs1 and broil4 ,while they are broiling1 baste them with melted butter4 ,serve as they are1 or with meat-jelly1 or gravy4 ,stuffed with ,truffles4--,proceed as with the above in every particular1 so far as removing the long bone of each half1 so as to be ready for stuffing them4 ,cut truffles in small dice1 enough to half fill the feet1 and put them on the fire in a small saucepan1 just covered with ,madeira wine2 toss and stir till the wine is absorbed and nearly boiled away1 then add a little gravy1 stir half a minute1 take from the fire and let cool4 ,when cold1 fill each half foot till half full1 and finish with sausage-meat2 then dip in butter and egg1 roll in crumbs1 broil and serve as the above4 ,they may be filled with truffles only1 and served with meat-jelly4 ,,pig',s ,,head4 ,soak in water and clean it well2 take all the bones and flesh out2 then cut the flesh and about one pound of salt pork in strips1 which you put inside of the head1 well mixed with salt1 pepper1 half a dozen middling-sized onions chopped1 two teaspoonfuls of chopped parsley1 half a saltspoonful of allspice1 two bay-leaves1 two sprigs of thyme1 a little sage1 and the juice of half a lemon2 lay it in a crockery vessel for from four to six days4 ,envelop the head in a towel1 place it in a kettle with eight small onions1 two carrots cut in pieces1 salt1 pepper1 four sprigs of parsley1 four of thyme1 four bay-leaves1 two cloves1 and a pint of white wine2 cover with water1 set on the fire1 and simmer from six to eight hours2 take from the fire and drain1 take the towel off and drain again till dry and cold4 ,serve it with sprigs of green parsley around4 ,wild-,boar like4--,prepare1 stuff1 cook1 and allow it to cool as the one preceding2 then place it on an oval dish1 the ears up1 with one or two skewers to hold them in place1 and also two or three decorated skewers in the middle of the head and between the eyes--not across1 but lengthwise4 ,glaze it with essence of beef1 by means of a brush2 make eyes with meat-jelly1 which you cut with a vegetable spoon1 and imitate the tongue1 teeth1 and tusks with butter colored with cochineal and kneaded with flour4 ,cover the back part with jelly and skewers ornamented with flowers or slices of truffles1 or with both4 ,some jelly1 chopped1 may also be placed all around1 and flowers in the ears and on the eyes4 ,it is served as an entree1 or for supper1 lunch1 or breakfast4 ,,pig',s ,,kidneys4 ,prepare1 cook1 and serve like calf's kidneys4 ,,pig',s ,,tail4 ,prepare1 cook1 and serve like pig's ears4 ,,pig',s ,,tongue4 ,prepare1 cook1 and serve like beef tongue4 ,head-cheese4--,soak a pig's head in cold water for two or three hours1 clean1 and then cut the whole of it1 ears and tongue included1 in strips one or two inches long1 and then put the whole with about two pounds of salt pork1 cut in strips also1 in a crockery bowl1 season with salt1 pepper1 chopped onion1 chopped parsley1 thyme1 bay-leaf1 and sage1 chopped also1 the juice of a lemon1 and leave thus for about two or three days1 turning it over occasionally4 ,then put the mixture in a mould or wrap it in a towel and boil till done4 ,it must be immersed in the water4 ,some beet or sheep's tongue1 together with the flesh of chicken1 may be added to the head4 ,when cooked and cold1 if there are any empty places1 they may be filled with meat-jelly4 ,it is served at late suppers1 or at lunch and breakfast4 ,it is always served cold1 with parsley around4 ,,sucking-,,pig4 ,a sucking-pig1 to be good1 must be fat4 ,then properly cleaned1 and hoofs off1 clean the inside1 leaving the kidneys2 skewer it1 put in it half a pound of butter kneaded with chopped parsley and green onions1 four or five mushrooms1 and two white onions with a clove stuck in each2 place it on the spit before a good fire1 baste often with melted butter first1 and then with the drippings1 and when done serve on a vinaigrette4 ,some truffles may be added to the seasoning1 if handy2 it gives it a good taste4 ,baked4--,stuff it as the above1 place it in a baking-pan with just cold water enough to cover the bottom of the pan2 put it in a quick oven1 baste often1 and when done serve with a remolade or vinaigrette sauce4 ,when roasted or baked1 place it on a dish with slices of truffles1 mushrooms1 and parsley all around4 ,run some skewers through slices or truffles and whole mushrooms1 and plant them in it like the one represented in the cut on the following page4 ,a small red apple is placed in the mouth after it is cooked1 to make room for which a stone is placed in the mouth before cooking it1 in order to keep the mouth open4 ,it is served as warm as possible4 ,illustration3 ,a1 skewer2 ,b1 slices of truffles2 ,c1 mushrooms ,boned4--,a sucking-pig can be boned and filled just the same as a turkey1 and cooked and served alike also4 ,,poultry4 ,chickens1 ducks1 turkeys1 and geese must be killed not less than twenty-four hours1 and not more than three days in summer1 nor less than two days nor more than six days in winter1 before cooking them4 ,,how ,,to ,,prepare ,,and ,,clean4 ,to transport poultry1 see ,game4 ,poulterers are of the opinion that the best and quickest way of killing poultry is by cutting the throat or the tongue4 ,tie the legs of the bird1 hang it by the legs1 then kill and let bleed4 ,some cut the head off and throw it away on the ground1 but the poor things do not die so fast1 and therefore suffer more4 ,as soon as the throat or tongue is cut1 if the head is held down the bird dies sooner1 as it allows the blood to run more freely1 preventing the bird from bending and twisting its neck1 and also from swallowing its blood4 ,it is much better to pick the bird dry4 ,by scalding1 the skin is spoiled1 and very often the flesh of a young and tender chicken is spoiled also1 being blanched4 ,when picked1 singe the bird carefully1 in order not to burn the skin4 ,split the skin on the back of the neck1 from the body to near the head2 then detach the skin from the neck by pulling it downward and the neck upward2 it gives you plenty of room to pull the crop out1 which you do4 ,cut the skin off at about the middle of the neck1 and the neck close to the body2 that part of the skin of the neck is left to cover the place where the neck was cut off1 by turning it on the back of the bird1 and holding it with twine in trussing4 ,make an incision under the rump1 lengthwise1 and large enough to draw the bird easily4 ,when drawn1 wipe the inside of the bird with a towel1 but do not wash it1 except when you have broken the gall-bladder4 ,if that should happen1 cut the bird in pieces immediately and wash well in lukewarm water2 never roast or prepare whole a bird that has had the gall-bladder broken in it in drawing it4 ,saute it or prepare it in fricassee4 ,if there should be any thing unclean on the outside1 wipe it off1 if possible1 or otherwise cut the place off1 or wash only the unclean place4 ,a washed bird is a very inferior article4 ,if you see that a bird cannot be cleansed properly except by washing it1 do not buy it4 ,,chicken4 ,to select4--,buy a chicken with white flesh and pale-yellow fat4 ,if young1 the cock has small spurs1 the hen has the lower part of the legs and feet rather soft and smooth2 those parts are rough in old ones4 ,if the rump is hard and stiff1 they are fresh enough2 but if soft1 it is necessary to examine the bird carefully2 it might be tainted4 ,to truss4--,when prepared as directed for poultry1 put the bird on the table on its back1 and with a chopper or with a round stick flatten the breast-bone1 which you break at a single blow if possible2 the bird is much more sightly when served4 ,cut the legs off just above the first joint1 or cut off only half of the claws and trim off the ends of the wings4 ,place the bird on a table1 the breast up and the rump toward you4 ,push the legs under the skin1 so that1 by holding them perpendicularly and pressing on them1 the part from the second to the third joint is alongside the chicken1 or horizontally4 ,then run a trussing-needle1 with twine attached to it1 just above the bone of the leg1 as near the second joint as possible1 on the side 7toward you7 of the bone of the leg that is perpendicular1 through the leg 7which leg is the left one of the bird71 body1 and also through the bird1 and at the same place1 that is1 as near the second joint as possible4 ,turn the bird upside down and the neck toward you2 turn the ends of the wings on the back1 as seen in the cut 7p4 #bdj71 turn the skin of the neck on the back also1 between or under the wings and in order to cover the place where the neck has been cut off1 then run the needle again through the right wing1 the skin of the neck and part of the body1 and through the other wing4 ,tie the ends of the twine fast together4 ,as it is1 the legs of the bird1 when on its back1 are pointing upward4 ,bend them gently down till they are perpendicular and as seen in the cut1 run the trussing-needle through both and also through the body1 above the bones of the legs and under the end of the breast-bone2 run it again the other way1 but under the bones of the legs1 tie the two ends of the twine together1 and you have a bird trussed exactly like the one represented in the cut on next page4 ,illustration ,another way to truss is1 to cut only half of the claws1 instead of cutting the legs at the first joint2 but1 to truss thus1 the first joint must be partly cut as represented below4 ,if the nerve were not cut1 it would contract in cooking1 and instead of being straight1 the legs would point upward4 ,illustration ,a bird stuffed is trussed exactly in the same way as above1 with the exception that the skin of the neck must be sewed up with a trussing-needle before commencing to truss the legs1 and the incision must also be sewed up as soon as filled and before trussing4 ,the twine used to sew and truss the bird is removed just before dishing it4 ,some experiments have been made lately1 in ,france1 to find out the best way to kill chickens and make them tender4 ,those killed by electricity were more tender than any other1 but they must be cooked immediately1 as they become tainted in a very short time4 ,to blanch4--,when cut in pieces as directed1 throw it in boiling water to which a little salt has been added2 boil two minutes and drain4 ,to cut4--,to make a chicken saute or in fricassee1 it is generally cut into eight pieces2 the two legs1 the wings1 one piece of the breast-bone1 and three pieces of the back-bone4 ,the ends of the wings1 the lower part of the legs after being skinned by warming them1 the neck1 gizzard1 heart1 kidneys1 and head1 are put in the soup-kettle4 ,generally the bones of the legs above the second joint are removed by breaking them with the back of a knife just above the second joint4 ,the ends of the small bones of the three pieces of the back-bone are trimmed off also4 ,to dish and serve4--,dish the pieces in the following order3 the neck1 gizzard1 the fore part of the back and the low part of the legs in the middle2 then one leg on each side of the dish1 with one wing beside each1 then the breast and hind part of the back1 and lastly the ends of the wings at the top4 ,if cut in eight pieces only1 place the breast-bone on the middle of the dish1 the hind part of the back-bone at one end of it and the two others at the other end2 the legs and wings on each side4 ,boiled4--,a chicken is boiled only when it is an old one1 whose tenderness is doubtful1 and which is not needed to make broth or consomme4 ,clean1 prepare1 and truss it as directed for poultry4 ,brown the bird in a saucepan with about one ounce of butter1 then half cover it with cold water2 season with a few slices of onion1 same of carrot1 two cloves1 two stalks of parsley1 salt and pepper4 ,boil gently about one hour and a half1 and when done1 dish the bird1 strain the sauce over it1 and serve warm4 ,if the sauce boils away1 add a little cold water2 and if there is any fat on it1 skim it off4 ,an old chicken may be cooked especially to make a salad4 ,boned4--,pick1 bone1 fill1 cook1 and serve a boned chicken exactly like a boned turkey2 the only difference is1 that it requires less filling1 being smaller4 ,for an extra1 legs of large chickens may be boned and filled like the chicken1 the rest being used for a fricassee4 ,broiled4--,young1 or what are called spring chickens1 are broiled2 an old one would not be as good4 ,to broil1 a chicken is split in two lengthwise1 or the back only is split1 so as to open it4 ,salt both sides and butter them slightly1 then broil on a good but not sharp fire4 ,serve with a maitre-d'hotel1 piquante1 or ravigote sauce4 ,broiled hunter-like4--,when cleaned and prepared1 split the chicken in two lengthwise and place it in a crockery dish with the following seasonings3 a teaspoonful of parsley chopped fine1 a middling-sized onion in slices1 two cloves1 salt1 pepper1 a tablespoonful of sweet-oil1 and the juice of half a lemon4 ,half an hour after turn the chicken over1 and after another half hour place the above seasonings all around the chicken1 fasten them with paper1 tie the paper with twine1 and broil carefully on a rather slow fire1 and turning over two or three times4 ,when done1 remove the paper in which they are enveloped1 scrape off the slices without scratching the meat1 and serve as warm as possible with a maitre-d'hotel1 ravigote1 or ,madeira sauce4 ,when an older chicken is prepared hunter-like1 it is generally served with a ,tartar sauce4 ,another way4--,clean and prepare a chicken as directed4 ,cut the neck off1 also the legs at the first joint1 split the breast in two so as to open the chicken1 and flatten it with a chopper4 ,put about two ounces of butter in a saucepan and set it on the fire2 when melted1 add a teaspoonful of chopped parsley1 stir for half a minute with a wooden spoon1 then put the chicken in with salt and pepper2 when about half fried on one side1 turn it over and half fry the other side2 then take off the chicken1 roll it in chopped parsley and bread-crumbs mixed together1 broil it properly and serve on a ,tartar sauce4 ,a chicken broiled either way above described may also be served on a ,bechamel or on a cream sauce4 ,croquettes4--,the proportions that we give below are for half a middling-sized chicken4 ,a chicken may be cooked especially to make croquettes1 but it is generally made with cold meat4 ,chop the meat fine4 ,chop fine also half a middling-sized onion2 fry it with one ounce of butter1 then add half a tablespoonful of flour1 stir for half a minute1 then add also the chopped meat and a little over a gill of broth1 salt1 pepper1 a pinch of nutmeg1 stir for about two minutes1 take from the fire1 mix two yolks of eggs with it1 put back on the fire for one minute1 stirring the while2 lastly you add four mushrooms chopped1 or two truffles1 chopped also1 or both1 according to taste2 do not put back on the fire1 but turn the mixture into a dish1 spread it and put it away to cool4 ,when perfectly cold1 mix it well1 as the upper part is more dry than the rest2 put it in parts on the paste-board1 about a tablespoonful for each part4 ,have bread-crumbs on the paste-board1 roll each part of the shape you wish2 either round like a small sausage1 or flat1 or of a chop-shape2 then dip each croquette or part in beaten egg1 roll in bread-crumbs again1 and fry in hot fat4 7,see ,frying47 ,the best way to shape them1 is to roll each part round first with a few bread-crumbs1 then with a knife smooth both ends1 while with the left hand you roll them gently1 and if wanted flat1 strike gently on them with the blade of a knife4 ,if wanted of a chop-shape1 when flat1 shape with the hands and strike again to flatten them4 ,croquettes are made with any kind of cold meat4 ,in ,fricassee4--,clean1 prepare1 and cut as directed4 ,if the flesh is not white1 blanch it4 ,put it in a saucepan1 cover it with broth or cold water 7broth is better than water71 set it on the fire1 and add one onion whole1 and if covered with water1 add also a bunch of seasonings1 composed of three stalks of parsley1 one of thyme1 a bay-leaf1 and one clove1 boil gently till done4 ,put about two ounces of butter in a saucepan with one tablespoonful of flour1 set on the fire1 stir and mix while the butter is melting2 then turn the broth or water in which the chicken has been cooked into this pan through a strainer1 add salt1 six mushrooms sliced1 then the pieces of chicken2 give one boil1 dish the pieces as directed1 mix a yolk of egg in the sauce1 turn it over the chicken1 and serve with or without a border of paste4 ,border of ,paste4--,knead well together1 so as to make a rather thick paste1 two whites of eggs with flour2 spread it with a rolling-pin in a long strip about two inches and a half broad and one-fifth of an inch thick4 ,trim the sides if not straight2 cut three rows of holes in the middle with a fruit-corer1 then cut the strip of paste in two1 lengthwise and in the middle of the middle row of holes4 ,cut it again across in pieces about three or four inches long4 ,put it in a warm place to dry till hard enough to keep in shape and still be pliable2 warm the dish on which you wish to place it2 beat the white of an egg just a little with a pinch of sugar1 glaze the straight side of the paste with it2 place it all around and on the border of the dish with the dentilated side up4 ,place the pieces of chicken inside of the border as directed above1 and serve4 ,the cut below represents the border4 ,one1 a1 is the border before being cut in two1 and b when cut4 ,illustration ,it may seem difficult to place the border at first1 but it will be easily done after having tried once or twice1 and following the directions previously given4 ,it is better to try when not in a hurry and before being wanted2 that is1 before you wish to serve it4 ,the border may be made and placed on a dish without a chicken1 it will be better for an experiment4 ,in ,fricassee a la chevaliere or ,parisienne4--,while the chicken is cooking as directed for fricassee1 prepare a garniture of chicken-combs1 and1 when the chicken is dished1 place the garniture all around it1 and serve warm4 ,a la ,francaise4--,while the fricassee is being made1 prepare a garniture of mushrooms or one of truffles1 or both4 ,dish the chicken as directed1 place a garniture of mushrooms or one of truffles1 or both1 tastefully all around1 and serve warm4 ,when a fricassee is made for several persons1 with two1 three1 four1 or more chickens1 three garnitures may be placed around the same dish1 and1 when carefully and tastefully arranged1 it makes a sightly one4 ,the three garnitures are1 generally1 of chicken-combs1 mushrooms1 and truffles2 they may be also of chicken-combs1 quenelles of chicken1 and croutons2 or1 of financiere1 truffles1 and chicken-combs2 or a boiled craw-fish here and there1 and two of any of the above-mentioned garnitures4 ,instead of a garniture1 it may be served with a border of rice4 7,see ,rice in ,border47 ,a la financiere4--,this is a fricassee of chicken served with a financiere garniture4 ,au supreme4--,chicken1 or rather chickens1 au supreme is a fricassee made with the breasts of chickens only4 ,each side of the breast-bone is carefully detached in two long pieces called fillets2 so that1 with two chickens1 there are eight pieces4 ,to detach them properly1 split the skin right on the breast-bone from the neck to the rump1 then pull it off on both sides so as to have the whole breast skinned4 ,take hold of one wing with the left hand1 and1 with a sharp knife in the right1 split or cut the joint off carefully1 we mean the third joint of the wing1 or that near the body2 as soon as the joint is cut1 by merely raising the back of the knife1 leaving the edge on the cut joint and pressing gently on the chicken1 you easily pull off the larger part of the half breast2 detach the end of the other half with the point of the knife and pull it off also4 ,do the same for the other side4 ,when the breasts or fillets are thus detached1 prepare them as chicken in fricassee1 and serve with a border of paste1 or with one of rice1 as directed in the receipts above1 and serve warm4 ,what is left of the chickens is put in the broth-kettle1 or used to make consomme4 ,another supreme4--,detach the breasts of two chickens as above directed1 then prepare the eight pieces or fillets as directed for chicken saute4 ,ten minutes before taking from the fire1 add and mix with the whole two or three truffles1 weighing at least six ounces1 and sliced2 finish the cooling1 and serve4 ,to serve4--,dish the pieces tastefully and according to fancy1 and put the dish away in a warm place1 then mix a supreme sauce with what you have left in the pan1 sauce1 truffles1 etc41 boil the whole till rather thick1 stirring continually while it is boiling1 turn over the pieces of chicken1 and serve4 ,the supreme sauce used in that case is generally made with very rich chicken gravy4 ,chickens au supreme is considered a very recherche dish1 and it is a rather expensive one4 ,for a grand dinner1 the breasts of six chickens are used1 and all the other parts of the chicken are used to make chicken gravy with rich broth1 and that gravy is1 in its turn1 used to make the supreme sauce that is mixed with the liquor in which the chicken has cooked4 ,the broth used to saute the chicken is generally rich1 and very often two pounds of truffles are used with six chickens4 ,a la ,bourguignonne4--,this is a fricassee also1 but instead of covering the chicken with broth or water1 it is covered with white wine4 ,proceed1 for the rest1 and serve as fricassee4 ,with ,carrots4--,while you are cooking a chicken in fricassee1 prepare a dish of carrots au jus or glazed1 for ornamenting the dish2 cut the carrots with a vegetable spoon before cooking them4 ,dish the chicken as directed1 place the carrots tastefully all around the meat1 and serve warm4 ,this dish was devised by a monk1 and is often called a la ,saint ,lambert4 ,a la ,royale4--,this is nearly the same as au supreme2 the only difference is1 that the pieces of breast or fillets are larded with salt pork1 and then cooked1 served and decorated the same as described for au supreme4 ,marengo4--,clean1 prepare1 and cut up the chicken as for fricassee4 ,put in a stewpan five teaspoonfuls of sweet-oil1 and set on a good fire2 when hot1 put the chicken in with salt and pepper2 turn over once in a while1 till every piece is of a golden color1 and nearly cooked1 then add two sprigs of parsley1 one of thyme1 a bay-leaf1 and one clove1 tied together with twine2 add also three or four mushrooms cut in slices1 and if handy three or four truffles also cut in slices2 when the whole is cooked1 dish the pieces of chicken thus3 the neck and gizzard1 with the fore part of the back1 and the low part of the legs in the middle1 one leg on each side of the dish with one wing beside each1 then the breast and hind part of the back1 and the ends of the wings at the top4 ,have an ,italian sauce ready1 pour it on the chicken1 place on the whole the pieces of mushrooms and truffles1 also some croutons fried in butter1 and serve4 ,with ,green ,peas4--,clean1 prepare1 and truss the bird as directed for poultry1 then cook it whole as a stewed chicken above4 ,when done1 dish the chicken1 place peas a l',anglaise all around1 strain the sauce over the whole1 and serve4 ,larded with ,truffles4--,clean1 prepare1 and truss a fat chicken4 ,make about two dozen small pegs1 with truffles1 about half an inch long and one-eighth of an inch in diameter4 ,take a skewer1 make a hole in the flesh of the breast of the chicken1 and put a truffle-peg into it4 ,put a dozen pegs in the same way on each side of the breast-bone1 and cook and serve the chicken4 ,it is either boiled1 stewed1 or roasted1 and served as directed for either4 ,with ,tarragon4--,proceed as for a stewed chicken1 with the exception that it is cooked whole after being trussed as directed for poultry1 and after having stuffed it with two ounces of butter kneaded with half a dozen stalks of tarragon chopped fine4 ,serve with a few stalks of tarragon around the dish4 ,roasted4--,clean1 prepare1 and truss the chicken as directed4 ,place it on the spit slightly salted and buttered all around1 or envelop it in buttered paper1 or merely cover the breast with thin slices of salt pork tied with twine4 ,baste often1 at first with melted butter1 and then with the drippings4 ,if the bird has been enveloped with paper1 the latter must be removed about ten minutes before taking the chicken from the fire2 do the same with the slices of salt pork4 ,it takes from twenty-five minutes to one hour to roast a chicken1 with a good fire4 ,the time depends as much on the quality of the bird as on the size4 ,with a skewer or a small knife1 or merely by pressing on it with the fingers1 anyone can learn how to tell when done1 after having roasted only two or three4 ,even by the look of it1 many persons can tell4 ,with ,water-cress4--,dish the chicken when roasted1 put fresh water-cress all around1 remove the fat from the gravy1 which you turn over the whole2 add salt and pepper to taste1 a little vinegar or lemon-juice1 and serve warm4 ,with ,sauces4--,when roasted1 serve with the following sauces3 soubise1 tarragon1 oyster1 tomato1 and ,provencale4 ,with ,garnitures4--,dish the bird when roasted as directed1 and place one of the following garnitures around1 and serve warm3 quenelles of chicken or of veal1 ,macedoine1 and cauliflowers4 ,with ,macaroni4--,spread four ounces of macaroni au jus on a dish1 place the roasted chicken on it1 and serve the whole warm4 ,with ,butter4--,it may be served with its gravy and craw-fish or lobster-butter4 ,with ,chestnuts4--,when dished1 surround the chicken with chestnuts glazed1 and serve4 ,with ,pigeons4--,dish the bird1 place four roasted pigeons around1 one at each end and one on each side2 fill the intervals with green peas au jus1 and serve warm4 ,all the above may be decorated with skewers4 ,run the skewer in a chestnut and then in a craw-fish2 or1 in a quenelle and then in a chestnut or craw-fish2 or1 in a chicken-comb1 and in a quenelle1 and stick it on the chicken4 ,two skewers only for a chicken make a fine decoration4 ,slices of truffles1 of mushrooms1 and chicken-combs1 make fine as well as delicious decorations4 ,baked4--,put the chicken in a baking-pan1 after being cleaned1 prepared1 and trussed4 ,salt and butter the breast1 which must be upward1 place a piece of buttered paper on it1 and a little cold water in the bakepan4 ,set it in a warm1 but not too quick oven2 baste often with the liquor in the pan4 ,if the water and juice are absorbed by the heat1 add a little cold water1 so as to have liquor to baste with4 ,remove the paper about ten minutes before taking from the oven4 ,it takes about forty minutes to cook a chicken of middle size4 ,serve a baked chicken with sauces and garnitures1 and decorated the same as if it were roasted1 and as described in the above receipts4 ,saute4--,after being cleaned and prepared as directed1 cut the chicken in pieces as for fricassee4 ,put it in a saucepan with about an ounce of butter2 set on the fire1 stir now and then till it is of a golden color and pour off the fat1 if any is in the saucepan4 ,add a tablespoonful of flour and stir half a minute1 then add also broth enough to nearly cover the meat1 half a pint of white wine1 a bunch of seasonings composed of four stalks of parsley1 one of thyme1 half a bay-leaf1 and one clove1 the four tied together with twine2 add salt1 and one onion whole4 ,boil gently till done4 ,ten minutes before serving1 add half a dozen mushrooms4 ,dish the pieces of chicken as directed for fricassee1 place the mushrooms over them1 strain the sauce all over1 and serve warm4 ,if the chicken is done before the sauce is reduced or is rather thick1 dish the meat and put it away in a warm place1 boil the rest slowly till reduced1 and then turn it over the meat4 ,serve with or without a border1 as in a fricassee4 ,truffles may be used instead of mushrooms1 if handy1 or liked4 ,water may be used instead of broth1 but it is inferior4 ,another4--,to be good saute1 the chicken must be young and tender4 ,clean1 prepare1 and cut as directed4 ,put about one ounce and a half of butter in a frying-pan1 set it on the fire1 and when melted put the pieces of chicken in1 stir now and then till all the pieces have a golden hue2 add a tablespoonful of flour1 stir again for about one minute2 then add also salt and pepper1 half a pint of broth1 or one gill of broth and one gill of white wine2 boil gently for five or six minutes4 ,add again a teaspoonful of parsley chopped fine1 five or six mushrooms cut in slices1 keep it boiling gently till done1 and serve warm4 ,if the sauce is boiling away1 or is found too thick1 add a little broth4 ,use ,champagne1 ,sauterne1 or ,catawba wine4 ,it is much better with wine than without4 ,another4--,clean1 prepare1 and cut the chicken as for fricassee4 ,put it in a saucepan with about an ounce of butter1 set on the fire1 stir once in a while till all the pieces are of a fine golden color2 then pour off the fat that may be in the pan4 ,sprinkle a tablespoonful of flour all over it1 and stir for about half a minute1 then add three or four shallots1 or two or three small green onions1 chopped fine1 parsley1 and three or four mushrooms1 both cut in small pieces1 a bunch of seasonings composed of four sprigs of parsley1 one of thyme1 a bay-leaf1 and one clove1 salt1 and pepper4 ,stir often till cooked1 and serve with a few drops of lemon-juice sprinkled on it when dished4 ,dish as directed for fricassee4 ,stewed4--,clean1 prepare1 and cut the chicken in pieces as for fricassee4 ,brown them in a saucepan with about one ounce of butter1 then take the pieces off1 add half a tablespoonful of flour to the butter1 stir for one minute1 then add also three or four mushrooms in slices1 a small onion1 and half a dozen sprigs of parsley chopped fine1 stir for two or three minutes1 then cover with half a pint of white wine and the same of broth1 boil for ten minutes1 put the pieces of chicken back into the pan1 boil gently till done1 and serve warm as it is4 ,the pieces of chicken are dished as directed for fricassee4 ,stuffed with ,bread4--,soak stale bread in cold water1 and then squeeze the water out of it4 ,put one ounce of butter in a saucepan and set it on the fire2 as soon as melted1 add one middling-sized onion chopped fine1 and stir till it turns rather yellow1 then add the bread1 stir two minutes2 add again salt1 pepper1 a pinch of nutmeg1 two or three tablespoonfuls of broth2 stir again two or three minutes1 take from the fire1 mix in it a yolk of egg1 put back on the fire for half a minute1 stirring the while1 take off again1 add a teaspoonful of chopped parsley1 and use4 ,fill the crop 7we mean the place where the crop was7 and also the body or inside of the bird with the above mixture1 truss it as directed2 roast or bake it1 and serve with the gravy4 ,stuffed with ,sausage-meat4--,set a saucepan on the fire with about half an ounce of butter in it2 when melted add an onion chopped fine1 stir1 and1 when nearly fried1 add also the heart and liver of the bird1 chopped fine1 four1 six1 or eight ounces of sausage-meat 7according to the size of the bird71 stir for about twelve minutes1 take from the fire1 mix a yolk of egg with it1 also four or five mushrooms chopped1 or one or two truffles1 chopped also1 put back on the fire for five minutes1 stirring the while1 take from the fire again1 fill the prepared bird with the mixture1 and as above1 roast or bake it1 and serve it with its gravy4 ,stuffed with ,chestnuts4--,roast chestnuts and skin them1 removing also the white envelope that is under the outside skin4 ,fill the inside of a cleaned and prepared chicken till half full1 add about one and a half ounces of butter1 finish the filling2 truss1 roast or bake as directed1 and serve the bird with its gravy4 ,stuffed with ,truffles4--,the truffles1 being preserved1 do not require any preparation1 half a pound is enough for a middling-sized chicken2 it is not necessary to put any where the crop was4 ,salt and pepper the inside of the bird1 and put in it also about a teaspoonful of parsley chopped fine1 then the truffles2 sew the incision made to draw it2 truss it as directed1 and roast or bake4 ,the same1 stewed4--,when stuffed1 put four ounces of salt pork cut in dice in a saucepan1 with slices of onion and carrot1 place the chicken on them1 season with four stalks of parsley1 one of thyme1 a bay-leaf1 and one clove tied together2 half cover it with broth and white wine1 of equal parts1 set on the fire1 boil gently till done1 turning it over several times4 ,dish the bird1 strain the sauce over it1 and serve warm4 ,after being stuffed with truffles1 it may be kept two days before cooking4 ,cold4--,what is left from the previous day's dinner is known under the name of cold meat4 ,for about half a chicken put one ounce of butter in a saucepan1 and1 when melted1 turn into it a financiere garniture1 and half a pint of ,madeira wine1 boil gently about eight minutes1 put the cold chicken cut in pieces in it2 leave just long enough on the fire to warm it1 and serve4 ,if not a roasted or broiled chicken1 or part of either1 you merely warm it in the bain-marie if possible1 or on the fire1 and serve as it is4 ,if roasted or broiled1 it is served in blanquette1 thus3 ,cut up the meat in slices1 have in a stewpan and on a good fire a piece of butter the size of two walnuts2 when melted1 sprinkle in it a pinch of flour1 stirring with a wooden spoon the while2 then pour in also1 little by little1 two gills of warm broth1 same of boiling water1 half a teaspoonful of chopped parsley1 salt1 pepper1 and two or three small onions fried in butter2 boil fifteen minutes4 ,after that time subdue the fire1 place the slices of chicken in the pan1 and serve as it is when well warmed4 ,instead of onions1 slices of pickled cucumbers may be used4 ,another way4--,cut up the chicken or part of it as for fricassee4 ,put a little butter in a stewpan and set on the fire2 when melted1 sprinkle in it a little flour1 half a teaspoonful of chopped parsley1 same of chopped mushrooms1 stir with a wooden spoon the while1 two or three minutes after which add two gills of white wine1 boil the whole fifteen minutes2 then subdue the fire1 put the pieces of chicken in the pan1 and serve as it is when warm4 ,it may also1 after it is cut up1 be served cold1 with an oil1 piquante1 or poivrade sauce4 ,the same1 in ,fricassee4--,an old chicken that has been used to make broth1 either alone or with beef1 when cool1 or the next day1 may be prepared just as a spring chicken in fricassee4 ,in ,salad4--,it is made with cold chicken1 roasted or baked1 with a whole one or part of it4 ,cut all the meat in dice and put it in a bowl4 ,cut just as much roasted or baked veal in dice also1 and put with the chicken4 ,cut also about as much table celery as chicken1 which put with the meat also4 ,season with salt1 pepper1 vinegar1 and very little oil2 stir and mix the whole well4 ,add also some lettuce1 and mix again gently4 ,put the mixture then on a platter1 making a small mound with it2 spread a ,mayonnaise-sauce all over it2 decorate with hard-boiled eggs1 cut in four or eight pieces1 lengthwise2 also with centre leaves of lettuce1 capers1 boiled beets1 and even slices of lemon4 ,a bard-boiled egg is cut across in two1 then with a sharp knife scallop each half1 invert them and run a small skewer through both1 so as to leave the smaller end of both halves in the middle and touching2 place the egg right in the middle of the dish1 when the ,mayonnaise is spread all over2 plant the centre leaves of a head of lettuce in the middle of the upper half of the egg1 with a few capers in it1 and serve4 ,some use mustard with a chicken salad2 it is really wrong1 because chickens and ,mayonnaise-sauce are too delicate to use mustard with them4 ,,capon4 ,a caponed chicken is cleaned1 prepared1 cooked1 and served in the same and every way as a common chicken4 ,a capon is almost always fat1 larger than an ordinary chicken1 and has a more delicate and tender flesh4 ,roasted and served in the different ways described for chicken1 it makes a recherche dish1 also when stuffed with chestnuts or truffles1 as a common chicken4 ,boiled4--,clean and prepare as directed above2 rub the fleshy part with lemon1 envelop it with slices of bacon1 place it in a stewpan with one sprig of parsley1 one of thyme1 a bay-leaf1 one clove1 a small carrot1 two onions1 salt1 and pepper2 cover with half water and half broth1 and set on a moderate fire4 ,when cooked1 take the capon off1 place it on a dish1 and set it in a warm place2 then boil the sauce till it is rather thick1 when strain it on the capon1 and serve4 ,the same1 with ,rice4--,when cleaned and prepared as above1 you place the capon in a stewpan1 cover it with water1 add one glass of broth1 a bay-leaf1 one clove1 a sprig of parsley1 one of thyme1 a small carrot1 two onions1 salt1 and pepper2 boil ten minutes1 then add also about four ounces of rice1 soaked in lukewarm water before using it1 and let simmer for two hours4 ,take the capon off1 and in case the rice should not be found to be cooked enough1 finish the cooking of it2 then take off clove1 parsley1 thyme1 bay-leaf1 carrot and onions1 pour the remainder on the capon1 and serve4 ,,turkey4 ,tame and wild are prepared and served alike4 ,the legs of a young hen-turkey are black2 the cock has small spurs1 and also black legs4 ,the shorter the neck the better and fatter the bird4 ,an old hen has red and rough legs2 the cock also has long spurs4 ,the fatter they are the better2 they cannot be too fat4 ,the broader the breast the better2 the skin must be white4 ,it is fresh enough as long as the legs are not stiff4 ,boiled4--,clean and prepare turkey as directed for poultry4 ,put in a stewpan1 large enough to hold a turkey1 a piece of butter the size of a duck's egg1 also a teaspoonful of chopped parsley1 same of green onions1 and four or five mushrooms2 set it on a good fire1 and1 as soon as the butter is hot1 lay the turkey in2 turn over now and then till of a fine golden color1 then take it from the pan1 cover the breast with slices of bacon tied with twine1 and put it back in the pan2 add a pinch of allspice1 six small onions1 salt1 pepper1 a glass of white wine1 and a pint of broth2 simmer till cooked1 dish it1 strain the sauce on it1 and serve4 ,it takes about two hours to cook a turkey of middling size4 ,a little warm broth should be added1 in case the sauce boils away during the cooking4 ,roasted4--,clean1 prepare1 and truss a turkey as directed for poultry1 and1 if the turkey is not fat1 the breast may be larded with salt pork4 ,place it on the spit before a sharp fire1 basting often with melted butter at first1 and then with the drippings4 ,it may be enveloped in buttered paper and tied with twine before placing it on the spit2 the paper is removed ten or fifteen minutes before taking from the fire2 serve with the gravy1 after having skimmed the fat off4 ,some fresh water-cress is placed all around it1 and on which you sprinkle vinegar or lemon-juice4 ,a turkey may be served in every way as a roasted chicken--with sauces1 garnitures1 and decorated with skewers4 ,baked4--,when cleaned1 prepared1 and trussed1 put the turkey in a baking-pan1 spread a little butter on it1 put a little cold water in the pan1 the depth of about two-eighths of an inch1 sprinkle salt all over1 place a piece of buttered paper on it1 and put in a quick oven4 ,baste often and turn the bird over and round1 if necessary4 ,it takes from one hour and a half to two hours to cook a turkey1 according to size1 quality1 and also according to the degree of heat4 ,it is served with the gravy only1 after having removed the fat1 or with sauces1 garnitures1 and decorations1 described for roasted chicken4 ,oyster-,sauce4--,when roasted or baked as directed1 serve warm with an oyster-sauce4 ,with ,currant ,jelly4--,roast or bake it1 and then serve it with currant-jelly4 ,it is also served with a cranberry-sauce4 ,stewed4--,an old turkey is more tender stewed than cooked in any other way4 ,the fleshy parts may be larded with salt pork1 if found too lean4 ,put in a large stew-kettle half a pound of bacon cut in slices1 four ounces of knuckle of veal1 three sprigs of parsley1 two of thyme1 a bay-leaf1 six small onions1 one carrot1 cut in four pieces1 three cloves1 one clove of garlic1 salt1 pepper1 and then the turkey2 wet with a pint of white wine1 same of broth1 cover as nearly air-tight as you can1 place in a moderately heated oven or on a moderate fire1 let simmer 7not boil7 about two hours and a half1 then turn it over1 put back on the fire or in the oven for another two hours and a half1 after which dish the turkey2 strain the sauce and put it back on the fire to reduce it to a jelly1 which you spread on it1 and serve4 ,many connoisseurs prefer the turkey served thus when cold2 it does not cost any thing to try it1 and it is very handy for a grand dinner1 as it may be prepared one or two days in advance1 and is just as good1 if kept in a refrigerator4 ,stuffed with ,chestnuts4--,roast chestnuts enough to fill the bird4 ,skin them and remove also the white skin under the outer one4 ,fill the turkey with them1 after having cleaned and prepared it2 when about half full1 put in it also from four to six ounces of butter2 finish the filling with chestnuts2 sew it up1 truss it as directed1 and roast or bake it4 ,serve with the gravy only4 ,stuffed with ,truffles4--,chop fine about four ounces of truffles1 and put them in a stewpan with about a pound of salt pork cut in dice2 set it on a moderate fire2 add salt1 pepper1 a little grated nutmeg1 a bay-leaf1 a pinch of allspice1 and a pinch of dried thyme2 when hot1 add also about two pounds of truffles1 boil fifteen minutes1 tossing now and then1 and take from the fire4 ,when nearly cool1 put the whole in the turkey and sew it up2 leave it thus1 if fresh1 four days in winter and one or two in summer2 if not fresh1 leave it a shorter time4 ,roast or bake it as directed above1 and serve with the gravy1 freed from the fat part4 ,this dish is considered exquisite by epicures4 ,stuffed with ,sausage-meat4--,proceed as for chicken stuffed1 in every particular4 ,with ,salt ,pork4--,place thin slices of salt pork on the breast of a prepared turkey1 covering it entirely1 and fastening the slices with twine2 then the turkey is roasted or baked1 and served with the gravy4 ,the slices may be removed a little before taking from the fire1 in order to color the meat4 ,boned4--,buy a good turkey1 neither too old nor too fat1 and picked dry4 ,singe the bird1 but do not draw it4 ,cut the neck off about one inch and a half from the body4 ,cut also the wings off just above the second joint1 and the legs just above the first joint2 the third joint is the one nearest the body4 ,split the skin from the end of the neck to the rump2 use a small sharp-pointed knife2 commence to run the knife between the bones and flesh1 on one side1 till you come to the third joint of the wings and legs4 ,by twisting and raising both wings and leg1 but one at a time1 you easily crack the joint1 and then separate it from the body with the knife4 ,continue to run the knife between the bones and flesh1 on the same side1 till you come to the breast-bone4 ,do the same on the other side4 ,pull out the crop and cut off the rump from the body1 but without touching the skin1 as the rump must come off with the skin and flesh4 ,then by taking hold of the bird by the neck with the left hand1 and pulling the skin gently down with the right1 you partly uncover the upper part of the breast-bone2 then again run the knife between that bone and the flesh1 on both sides1 till you come nearly to the end or edge of the bone4 ,then lay the bird on its back1 have somebody to take hold of it by the neck1 having the breast of the bird toward you4 ,all along the edge of the breast-bone there is no flesh between the bone and the skin4 ,the bird being held as described above1 take hold of the skin of the neck with your left hand1 pulling gently downward1 and with the knife detaching the skin carefully from the bone1 the carcass coming off whole4 ,place the bird on the table1 the inside up1 pull out the bones of the wings and legs1 scraping the flesh an around so as to leave it attached to the rest2 pull or scrape off all the tendons of the legs2 push legs and wings inside the bird2 see that the rump is clean2 cut off the ring under it if necessary4 ,we warrant that anybody1 with an ordinary amount of natural capacity1 can bone a turkey or other bird by following our directions with care4 ,we recommend persons doing it for the first time not to attempt to do it fast4 ,now have at hand about two pounds of sausage-meat seasoned as directed1 two pounds of boiled ham1 half a dozen boiled sheep's tongues or a smoked beef tongue 7but really the former is better71 a pound and a half of salt pork1 and half a pound of truffles sliced 7the latter if handy and if liked74 ,cut the ham1 tongues1 and salt pork in strips about four inches long1 one inch broad1 and a quarter of an inch thick4 ,spread the bird on the table1 the inside up and the rump toward you2 salt and pepper it2 place three or four slices of salt pork here and there on it1 then a layer of sausage-meat1 strips of ham and tongue and salt pork alternately on the sausage-meat1 slices of truffles if used1 again sausage-meat1 ham1 etc41 till there is enough to fill the bird well2 that is1 by bringing the two sides of the skin together1 giving the bird a round form1 it is perfectly full4 ,it is impossible to give exact proportions2 it depends not only on the size of the bird1 but also on the quality and degree of fatness of the bird4 ,in two of the same weight1 one may require more than the other to fill it4 ,when filled1 and when the two sides of the skin are brought together as described above1 sew up the cut with a trussing-needle and twine4 ,wrap up the bird tightly in a towel1 tie the towel with a string1 and run the string all around the towel to prevent it from opening at all4 ,take a kettle or saucepan of an oval shape and large enough to hold the bird1 put enough cold water in it to cover the bird1 also all the bones of the bird 7broken in pieces71 a small piece of lean beef1 say one pound1 a few stalks of parsley1 two of thyme1 two cloves1 two cloves of garlic1 a bay-leaf1 twelve pepper-corns1 a middling-sized carrot sliced1 half a turnip1 and salt4 ,set on the fire1 and at the first boiling put the bird in2 boil gently for about three hours if it is a turkey of middling size1 two hours for a middling-sized chicken4 ,when done it partly floats2 that is1 the upper part is above the liquor4 ,take it from the pan1 take the towel off and rinse it in cold water2 wrap the bird up in the towel again and in the same way as before2 place it on a large dish1 with the seam or back under2 put another plate or dish over it with a weight on it1 and leave thus overnight in a cool place4 ,the next morning the bird will be perfectly cold and rather flattened2 then remove the towel1 also the twine with which it has been sewed1 place it on the dish on which it is to be served1 the breast upward2 glaze it with essence of beef or glace2 decorate with meat-jelly1 and serve4 ,how to decorate with ,jelly4--,when the jelly is congealed and can be cut with a knife1 chop some of it on a coarse towel and put it all around the bird1 about half an inch thick2 cut some in slices about a quarter of an inch in thickness2 cut these again with paste-cutters in different shapes1 according to fancy1 and place it over the bird1 also according to fancy2 again cut some of it in slices about one inch broad1 a quarter of an inch thick and of any length1 and cut out of these last ones pieces of a triangular shape1 which put all around the border of the dish1 placed so that one point of each piece is turned toward the edge of the dish and the two other points touch the other pieces on both sides2 then you have an indented border of jelly4 ,when the jelly is fancifully and tastefully arranged1 it makes a sightly dish4 ,it is always served cold for breakfast1 lunch1 or supper4 ,in summer the jelly melts1 and cannot be used as a decoration4 ,a boned bird is then served without jelly4 ,the bird is cut in slices1 and some jelly is served with each slice4 ,cold4--,a turkey1 being a large bird1 is seldom entirely eaten the day it is served1 and very often more than half of it is left for the next day4 ,what is left may be prepared in different ways4 ,in ,vinaigrette4--,cut the flesh in slices and serve them with a vinaigrette4 ,it is not understood here for a boned turkey1 which is always eaten cold1 but either a roasted1 baked1 stewed1 or stuffed turkey4 ,in ,croquettes4--,proceed in every particular as for chicken croquettes4 ,in ,salad4--,a salad of turkey is made also exactly the same as a salad of chicken1 with cold meat4 ,it is covered with a ,mayonnaise-sauce and decorated in the same way4 ,besides the above ways of preparing cold turkey1 it may also be prepared as directed for cold chicken in general4 ,a caponed turkey is prepared as a caponed chicken1 boiled or with rice2 and also like a turkey1 as described in the above receipts4 ,they are generally larger1 fatter1 and more tender and juicy than others4 ,they are very much appreciated here1 and every year more and more are supplied1 and1 as in ,europe1 the greater the supply the better the quality4 ,there is a ready market for caponed turkeys in all the large cities of the ,united ,states1 and they command a high price4 ,,ducks4 ,ducks and ducklings1 tame and wild1 are prepared alike4 ,to be good1 a duck must be fat1 be it a canvasback1 gadwell1 black-duck1 garganey1 poachard1 wood-duck1 pintail1 shoveller1 spirit-duck1 summer-duck1 teal1 widgeon1 shelldrake1 or any other4 ,how to select4--,a young duck has the lower part of the legs soft1 and the skin between the claws soft also2 you will also know if it is young by taking hold of it by the bill 7the under bill only71 if it breaks or bends1 the duck is young4 ,if the breast of the duck is hard and thick1 it is fresh enough4 ,how to prepare4--,a duck is cleaned and prepared as directed for poultry4 ,roasted4--,clean1 prepare1 and truss the duck as a chicken1 with the exception that the rump is pushed inside2 the duck being much longer than a chicken1 it is more sightly when so trussed4 ,place inside of the duck two sage-leaves1 two bay-leaves1 and two sprigs of thyme1 and leave it thus in a cool place for two or three hours1 and then roast it as directed for chicken4 ,when roasted1 serve it with any of the following garnitures3 cabbage1 cauliflower1 ,macedoine1 onion1 or truffles4 ,the fatty part of the gravy or drippings must be carefully and totally removed before turning it over the duck and garniture4 ,it takes from thirty to forty minutes to roast4 ,baked4--,when cleaned1 prepared1 and trussed as directed for turkeys and chickens1 put the duck in a bakepan1 salt and pepper it1 cover the bottom of the pan with cold water1 and place it in a rather quick oven4 ,a duck1 being generally very fat1 requires to be turned over and over several times and to be basted very often4 ,it is not necessary to cover it with buttered paper4 ,in case there is much fat in the pan1 remove it while it is cooking4 ,it is served as directed for roast duck1 with garnitures4 ,when roasted or baked1 it is also served with apple or cranberry-sauce1 or with currant-jelly4 ,with ,peas4--,cut in dice about one ounce of salt pork and put it in a saucepan2 set it on the fire1 and1 as soon as the butter is melted1 brown in it a duck trussed as directed and take from the fire4 ,put one ounce of butter in a saucepan and mix it cold with a tablespoonful of flour1 set it on the fire1 and1 when the butter is melted1 put the duck in with about a quart of green peas1 blanched for one or two minutes only2 add about a pint of water or of broth1 a bunch of seasonings composed of three or four stalks of parsley1 one of thyme1 a bay-leaf1 and one clove1 salt1 and pepper2 boil gently till the whole is cooked1 and serve warm4 ,remove all the fat carefully before serving4 ,if the water should boil away while it is cooking1 add a little more4 ,with ,oranges4--,roast or bake a young duck as directed1 and serve it with carpels of orange all around2 and sprinkle some orange-juice all over just before serving it4 ,with ,olives4--,roast or bake the duck as directed4 ,when done1 turn the gravy into a small saucepan with about two dozen olives2 stir gently1 and keep on the fire for about five minutes4 ,dish the duck1 place the olives all around2 turn the gravy over the whole1 and serve warm4 ,saute1 served with a ,border4--,when cleaned and cut in eight pieces as directed1 set it on the fire with one ounce of butter1 stir occasionally till turning brown1 then pour off the fat from the saucepan1 add broth enough just to cover the pieces of duck2 also one onion with a clove stuck in it1 a bunch of seasonings tied with twine and composed of four stalks of parsley1 one of thyme1 and a bay-leaf1 salt1 and pepper2 boil gently till done4 ,place the pieces of duck inside of a border of rice1 strain the sauce over the duck only1 and serve hot4 ,the rice must be cooked1 moulded1 and placed on the dish while the duck is cooking1 so as to serve the whole warm4 7,see ,rice in ,border47 ,to cut4--,a duck is generally cut in eight pieces1 the two legs and wings1 the breast in two1 and the back-bone in two4 ,with ,turnips4--,truss the duck as directed for birds4 ,put one ounce of butter in a saucepan1 set it on the fire1 and1 when melted1 put the duck in1 turn over now and then till it is brown on every side4 ,then add a piece of onion chopped fine1 stir1 and1 when turning brown also1 add water enough to half cover it2 also a bunch of seasonings composed of three sprigs of parsley1 one of thyme1 a bay-leaf1 and a clove2 boil gently till done1 when add salt to taste4 ,while the duck is cooking1 cut two turnips in dice or in round pieces with a fruit-corer1 or with a vegetable spoon1 set them on the fire with cold water and salt1 boil till tender1 and drain them4 ,put them back on the fire with the sauce or gravy from the saucepan in which the duck has cooked1 give one boil1 dish the duck1 place the turnips around1 and serve4 ,another way4--,cut the duck in pieces4 ,set a saucepan on the fire with an ounce of butter in it1 when melted1 add half a tablespoonful of flour1 stir1 and1 when turning brown1 add half a dozen small turnips or two large ones1 cut with a vegetable spoon2 stir1 and1 when they are all browned1 take them off and brown the pieces of duck2 then put the turnips back in the pan1 add broth enough just to cover the whole2 also two sprigs of parsley1 one of thyme1 a bay-leaf1 a clove1 salt1 and pepper2 boil gently till cooked2 dish the duck and turnips1 turn the sauce over them through a strainer1 and serve warm4 ,cold4--,what is left from the preceding day's dinner is prepared in salmis4 ,very often a duck is baked1 especially to make a salmis with it4 7,see ,salmis47 ,boned4--,bone1 fill1 cook1 and serve as turkey boned4 ,cold duck may also be prepared in croquettes and salad1 like chicken4 ,stuffed4--,it is stuffed with sausage-meat and chestnuts1 also like a chicken4 ,,geese ,,and ,,goslings--,,tame ,,or ,,wild4 ,a young goose has much down and soft legs of a yellow color2 an old one has little down and rough legs of a reddish color4 ,when fresh1 the legs are soft2 and stiff and dry when not fresh4 ,geese and goslings are prepared1 cooked1 and served like ducks1 in the following ways3 roasted and baked1 and served with garnitures1 with cranberry-sauce1 currant-jelly1 apple-sauce1 with a border1 olives1 oranges1 peas1 or turnips2 in croquettes and in salmis4 ,it is boned1 cooked1 and served1 like a boned turkey4 ,in ,civet4--,clean1 prepare1 and cut the goose in pieces1 removing most of the fat1 and then cook1 and serve it like rabbit in civet4 ,it takes a little longer than to cook a rabbit1 but makes a very good dish4 ,when the civet is properly made1 it does not taste like goose4 ,,guinea-,,fowls4 ,a young ,guinea-bird is good1 but an old one is hardly fit to be eaten4 ,guinea-fowls are prepared and served like prairie-hens4 ,,pigeons4 ,the stall-fed or squab is prepared the same as the wild one4 ,to select4--,if the legs are not red1 they are young2 and if not stiff1 they are fresh4 ,when not fresh1 the rump is of a bluish color4 ,clean and prepare them as directed for fowls4 ,broiled4--,split the backs of the pigeons so as to open them1 flatten them a little with a chopper4 ,put two ounces of butter 7for six pigeons7 in a saucepan1 and set it on a good fire2 when hot1 add to it a teaspoonful of chopped parsley and green onions1 salt1 and pepper2 then the pigeons4 ,when half cooked1 take them from the fire1 roll them in bread-crumbs1 place them on the gridiron and set on a moderate fire1 turn over once or twice1 and1 when done1 serve on a maitre d'hotel1 piquante1 or poivrade sauce4 ,another way4--,when cleaned1 prepared1 and split open as directed above1 salt and pepper them1 grease them slightly with melted butter1 by means of a brush2 then broil them till underdone1 and serve with a maitre d'hotel sauce4 ,in ,chartreuse4--,a chartreuse with pigeons is made and served as a chartreuse of prairie-hens4 ,in ,papillotes4--,when cleaned and prepared as directed1 bake the pigeons till about half done1 then split them in two1 lengthwise1 and then proceed as for veal cutlets in papillotes4 ,they may be fried with a little butter1 instead of baked4 ,with ,vegetables4--,clean and prepare as directed for poultry1 four pigeons4 ,cut them in four pieces each4 ,put in a saucepan two ounces of butter1 and set it on the fire2 when melted1 brown the pigeons in it1 and then take them from the pan4 ,the pigeons being taken off1 put into the pan1 which is kept on the fire1 half a carrot and two onions sliced1 half a turnip1 sliced also2 four or five stalks of parsley1 one of thyme1 one of celery1 a bay-leaf1 two cloves2 the latter five tied together4 ,cover the whole with broth or water2 boil gently till about half done1 then add the pieces of pigeons1 and salt and pepper2 continue boiling till the whole is done4 ,dish the pigeons1 throw away the seasonings1 mash the carrot1 onions1 and turnips through a colander1 which you mix with the sauce4 ,place the mixture around the pieces of pigeons1 and serve warm4 ,stuffed4--,it is stuffed1 cooked1 and served like a stuffed chicken4 ,the same1 stewed4--,put a piece of butter the size of a walnut in a stewpan1 and set it on a good fire2 when hot1 add two ounces of bacon cut in dice1 then place in four pigeons1 leave thus till of a fine golden color1 and then take pigeons and bacon off the pan4 ,put again in the stewpan the same quantity of butter as before2 when melted1 sprinkle in1 little by little1 a teaspoonful of flour1 stirring with a wooden spoon1 and when of a proper thickness1 and of a brownish color1 put the pigeons and bacon back in1 add four small onions1 two sprigs of parsley1 one of thyme1 a bay-leaf1 a pinch of allspice1 salt1 pepper1 half a glass of broth1 same of claret wine2 simmer about an hour1 take off parsley1 thyme1 and bay-leaf1 and send to the table4 ,the same1 roasted4--,envelop each pigeon in thin slices of bacon tied with twine1 place them on a spit before a moderate fire1 baste often with the drippings1 and1 when cooked1 serve them with the gravy1 at the same time sprinkling a few drops of lemon-juice on them4 ,it takes from thirty to thirty-five minutes to roast them4 ,to roast or bake they are trussed like a chicken1 as seen in the cut below4 ,to carve pigeons is easy1 they are merely split in two1 lengthwise4 ,illustration ,baked4--,place a thin slice of fat salt pork or bacon on the breast of each pigeon1 after being cleaned1 prepared1 and salted2 place them in a bakepan1 on their back2 cover the bottom of the pan with cold water and put in a hot oven1 baste often1 and when done serve them with water-cress and lemon-juice4 ,the pigeons are placed on the dish the same as they were in the bakepan2 place water-cress between each1 also all around and in the middle of them2 sprinkle lemon-juice all over1 and serve warm4 ,with ,green ,peas4--,when cleaned and prepared1 truss the pigeons and put them in a saucepan with about two ounces of butter for half a dozen1 stir now and then till turning rather brown all around and take off2 then put in the saucepan about two ounces of salt pork cut in dice1 stir1 and1 when partly fried1 take it off also4 ,the pan being still on the fire1 put into it a good tablespoonful of flour1 stir till it turns brown1 when you add about a quart of broth1 stir and mix2 put pigeons and salt pork back into the pan1 season with a bunch of seasonings1 composed of half a dozen stalks of parsley1 one of thyme1 two bay-leaves1 a clove1 and one clove of garlic4 ,boil gently till nearly half done1 and then add a quart of green peas1 blanched previously2 boil again gently till the whole is done2 remove the bunch of seasonings and the clove of garlic2 dish the pigeons1 turn the peas in the same dish1 but in the middle of the pigeons1 which can be tastefully placed all around the dish2 strain the sauce over the whole1 and serve warm4 ,with ,mushrooms4--,prepare and truss the pigeons the same as for the above1 and proceed also as for the above in every particular1 except that you do not put in the saucepan quite as much broth1 a pint is sufficient1 and boil gently till done1 but do not add peas4 ,ten minutes before taking from the fire1 add a dozen mushrooms1 whole or sliced1 and half a gill of claret wine1 if handy4 ,dish the pigeons1 place the mushrooms in the middle of the dish1 strain the sauce over the whole1 and serve warm4 ,fried4--,take four pigeons1 cut each in four pieces1 put two ounces of butter in a stewpan and set it on the fire2 when melted1 put the pigeons in with two or three sprigs of parsley1 a small sprig of thyme1 a bay-leaf1 a pinch of allspice1 salt1 pepper1 and half a pint of broth4 ,take the pigeons off when half cooked1 and1 as soon as they are cool1 dip each piece in beaten eggs and roll it in bread-crumbs4 ,strain the butter that may be left in the stewpan1 and put it in a frying-pan with about an ounce more1 and fry the birds for about two minutes2 serve with water-cress or parsley all around4 ,in ,compote4--,roast six pigeons as directed4 ,then cut one of them in dice1 put it in a mortar and pound it4 ,put half an ounce of butter in a saucepan1 and1 when melted1 fry half an onion chopped fine in it2 then add to the pounded pigeon about a gill of gravy1 a gill of good broth1 salt1 pepper1 a bunch of seasonings1 composed of three stalks of parsley1 one of thyme1 a bay-leaf1 and a clove2 also about a gill of ,madeira wine or white wine1 boil gently till reduced about one-third1 strain4 ,put back on the fire1 add butter1 and when melted stir and set it on the corner of the range to keep warm while the rest is prepared4 ,cut the other five pigeons in two1 lengthwise4 ,cut ten pieces of bread square1 or of an oval shape1 and about the size of a half pigeon1 fry them with a little butter1 and place them on a dish4 ,while the bread is frying1 put the pigeons in an oven to warm them2 place half a pigeon on each slice of bread1 or one lapping over the other2 have the slices and pigeons so arranged that they fill the dish1 leaving only a small space in the middle1 into which you pour the sauce2 serve the whole hot4 ,in ,crapaudine4--,when prepared1 split open the backs of the pigeons2 cut the legs at the first joints and run them through the skin so that the ends come out on the inside2 dip the bird in beaten eggs1 roll them in bread-crumbs1 and broil them4 ,while they are broiling1 knead butter1 chopped parsley1 and lemon-juice together2 spread some on the pigeons when they are dished1 and serve warm4 ,,giblets4 ,by giblets are understood the gizzards1 heads1 legs1 livers1 necks1 and ends of the wings of chickens1 ducks1 geese1 turkeys1 and other birds1 tame or wild4 ,you begin by cleaning them well1 cut off the bills1 take the eyes out1 warming the legs on live coals1 so that you can take off the outer skin and spurs2 place the giblets in a tureen1 turn boiling water and a little salt on them1 leave them thus five or six minutes1 then wash well and drain them4 ,in ,fricassee4--,put a piece of butter in a stewpan 7the size to be according to the quantity of giblets you have71 set it on a good fire2 when melted1 sprinkle in it1 little by little1 a teaspoonful of flour2 stir the whole with a wooden spoon2 when of a proper thickness1 and of a brownish color1 add half a gill of warm broth1 same of warm water1 a sprig of parsley1 a small pinch of grated nutmeg1 two small onions1 salt1 and pepper2 then the giblets4 ,about half an hour after add also two mushrooms1 cut in pieces4 ,it takes about two hours to cook them properly4 ,dish the pieces1 strain the sauce1 mix in it one well-beaten yolk of an egg1 and a few drops of lemon-juice2 pour it on the giblets1 place the pieces of mushrooms over the whole1 and serve4 ,the same1 stewed4--,put the giblets in a stewpan with butter1 and set it on a good fire2 when they are of a fine yellow color1 add one or two sprigs of parsley1 a clove of garlic1 a sprig of thyme1 one clove1 half a bay-leaf1 two mushrooms cut in pieces1 two small onions1 and a pinch of flour2 wet with broth1 let simmer gently for half an hour1 and add also two parsnips cut in slices1 and previously half fried in butter2 simmer again for about an hour2 dish the pieces of meat1 strain the sauce1 put it back on the fire to reduce it a little1 pour it on the giblets1 place the pieces of mushrooms at the top1 and serve hot4 ,saute4--,they may also be prepared and served as a chicken saute4 ,,aspic ,,of ,,meat4 ,cut four middling-sized onions in slices1 lay them in a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of bacon 7not smoked72 then add about a quarter of a pound of each of the following meats3 chicken1 game 7any kind71 mutton1 and beef1 also a calf's foot split in two1 two ounces of rind of bacon1 two sprigs of parsley1 two of thyme1 a clove of garlic1 two carrots cut in two1 one clove1 and four small onions2 wet with half a pint of water1 and set on a brisk fire2 cover the pan well4 ,when nearly cooked1 take the grease off with a ladle2 add then boiling water enough just to cover the whole1 and finish the cooking4 ,strain the juice1 skim off the fat1 if any1 and let it cool2 if it is not found clear enough when strained1 beat well two whites of eggs1 put them in the stewpan with the juice1 set it on a sharp fire for about ten minutes1 stirring the while1 and take from the fire2 add to it a few drops of lemon-juice1 and strain again4 ,put in a mould some of the above juice1 about two-eighths of an inch in depth2 place the mould on ice1 and leave till the juice has turned into a jelly4 ,lay on that jelly some of the following meats1 free from bones1 and not allowing the pieces to touch the sides of the mould3 chicken1 game1 tongues of beef1 calf1 and sheep1 of all or of either of them 7the meats must be cooked beforehand74 ,cover the whole with the remainder of the juice1 so as to have about the same thickness at the top as at the bottom4 ,place the mould in a refrigerator to cool1 and turn into a jelly2 then dip the mould in very warm water1 turn over on a dish1 remove the mould1 and you have a fine entree4 ,,game4 ,game1 comparatively1 is appreciated only by a few4 ,when the country was first settled1 every one was his own provider1 and of course game was not sent to a market several hundred miles from the place where it was shot or caught4 ,but settlement and civilization have the same effect on game as they have on barbarians or savages--they drive it away4 ,our ,northeastern cities are now supplied by the ,western ,states with game4 ,in winter time1 game may be kept for weeks without being spoiled or losing its natural flavor and taste1 when kept where it is killed2 but when transported1 it is very different4 ,to transport it requires packing4 ,as soon as packed1 it naturally ferments2 and even if packed when frozen1 the middle of the barrel will ferment and become injured1 if not entirely rendered unfit for the table4 ,the packing of game or poultry in barrels is a bad practice4 ,nothing requires more ventilation than game while being transported4 ,many dealers have their game sent to them in wicker-baskets with plenty of straw1 but the greater part is still sent in barrels2 hence the musty taste when cooked4 ,to keep game for some time when fresh1 open the animal or bird under the rump1 just enough to take the inside out1 also the crop of birds1 being very careful about the gall-bladder2 if it bursts1 it is better not to try to preserve the piece1 but to clean1 wash1 and use it as soon as possible4 ,birds must be left in their feathers1 and animals in their skins4 ,fill the inside with dry and clean oats1 and put the piece in a heap or barrel of oats4 ,it will keep thus for many days4 ,another way is to envelop the piece well in a towel1 and bury it in charcoal dust in a cool and dry place4 ,how to clean and prepare4--,clean and prepare the birds as directed for poultry in general4 ,after having carefully skinned1 take out the inside1 and cut the legs off at the first joint of animals2 wash the inside with lukewarm water1 and wipe it dry with a clean towel immediately after2 wipe also the outside1 but do not wash it if possible2 that is1 if you can clean it well by wiping only4 ,wild ducks1 geese1 pigeons1 and turkeys1 are prepared1 cooked1 and served like tame ones4 ,bear-meat and ,buffalo4--,the meat of all large animals is better roasted1 than dressed in any other way4 ,prepare1 cook1 and serve bear and buffalo meat like venison1 beef a la mode1 or stewed4 ,bear-meat has highly nutritive qualities1 and is very warming4 ,buffalo-steaks are said to be better broiled on cinders without a gridiron1 than on or before coals with one2 that is1 ,indian fashion and even hunters' fashion4 ,indians often use wood-ashes as a substitute for salt1 and never use salt with buffalo-meat2 but their liking or preference comes from their habit of invariably broiling buffalo-meat on wood cinders or buffalo-chips4 ,bear-hams1 so well appreciated everywhere1 are prepared and served like common hams4 ,a bear-ham1 tastefully decorated1 is considered a recherche dish at supper for evening parties4 ,blackbird1 ,bobolink1 and ,small ,birds4--,the cut below represents six small birds on the spit1 ready for roasting4 ,when the birds are prepared1 cut off the ends of the wings and the legs above the first joint4 ,instead of cutting the legs above the first joint1 the ends of the claws only may be cut off1 according to taste4 ,cut thin slices of fat salt pork1 of a proper size to cover the breast of the bird2 place the slice on the breast of it1 run a skewer through the middle of the bird1 so that it will run through the two ends of the slice of salt pork also1 as seen in the cut4 ,have a skewer1 or merely a piece of wire1 long enough to hold six birds2 fix the skewer on the spit1 and roast4 ,when the six birds are on the skewer1 fasten them with twine1 to prevent them from turning round1 as seen in the cut4 ,illustration ,small birds are cleaned and prepared as directed for poultry1 but they are not trussed1 their legs being tied while tying the salt pork4 ,while roasting1 they are basted often with the drippings4 ,some water-cress and lemon-juice sprinkled upon them may be served with the birds4 ,the twine is removed before serving1 and they must be served hot2 if allowed to cool at all1 they lose their taste4 ,it takes from ten to fifteen minutes to roast4 ,baked4--,prepare them exactly as for roasting3 place the wire or skewer across a baking-pan1 turn them round and baste often2 serve also as above1 with the gravy1 and with or without water-cress4 ,the bobolink1 reed-bird1 and rice-bird are the same2 they are called under these different names at different seasons and in different localities2 it is the ,american ortolan1 the most delicate of small birds2 the robin comes next4 ,to eat it a la ,brillat-,savarin4--,take hold of the bird by the bill2 open your mouth wide enough to introduce the whole bird into it easily2 then shut it1 at the same time biting off the bill just at its base2 chew properly and swallow4 ,while the birds are roasting or baking1 place as many small slices of bread in the dripping or baking pan1 and serve a bird over each slice4 ,cut the slices either square1 round1 or oval1 about one-fourth of an inch in thickness1 and large enough to hold the bird4 ,hunter-like4--,prepare small birds as described for quails1 hunter-like2 it makes an excellent dish4 ,in ,salmis4--,roasted or baked small birds can be prepared in salmis when cold4 ,many amateurs prefer small birds not drawn2 that is1 the crop only is taken off1 but nothing of the inside is disturbed2 they pretend that they have a better taste when cooked thus2 of course1 every one to his taste4 ,high-holders1 lapwings1 meadow-larks1 plovers1 rails1 robins1 snipes1 thrushes1 woodcocks1 woodpeckers1 and yellow-birds are prepared as above4 ,small birds have a better flavor when cooked after being somewhat seasoned than when cooked fresh1 but they must not be tainted4 ,as long as the rump is stiff1 they are good2 if soft1 they must be examined carefully1 as they might be tainted4 ,when young1 there is no stiffness in the legs4 ,small birds are generally put by the half dozen on the same skewer1 as seen in the cut 7p4 #bgh72 but when a little larger1 like the robin or plover1 they may be trussed as directed for snipes4 ,grouse or ,heathcock4--,these are good as long as the legs are flexible2 if not1 examine them carefully1 they might be rotten inside4 ,lard them well1 envelop each in buttered paper1 and place on the spit before a good fire2 baste often1 remove the paper after twenty or twenty-five minutes2 leave two or three minutes more1 basting continually with the drippings2 dish the birds2 mix with the drippings a few drops of lemon-juice1 and a little salt and pepper1 and serve with the birds4 ,baked4--,lard the bird as for roasting2 that is1 the fleshy parts only are larded with salt pork1 then truss them as directed for chicken1 place them in a baking-pan1 cover the bottom of the pan with cold water1 put a piece of buttered paper on each bird1 place in a hot oven1 baste often till done4 ,serve with the gravy some water-cress1 and lemon-juice1 or vinegar4 ,it is also prepared1 cooked1 and served in the different ways described for prairie-hen1 either in chartreuse1 salmis1 salad1 or any other way4 ,hare4--,no hares have yet been found in the ,united ,states1 except in ,california4 ,the reported hare of the ,western prairies is1 as far as known1 a species of rabbit4 ,that found in the ,eastern markets comes from ,canada and ,europe4 ,the ,canadian hare is very inferior in quality4 ,to select4--,when young it has rather soft paws1 and not much opened1 and also soft ears2 but if old1 the paws are hard and much worn1 and the ears stiff and hard4 ,if fresh1 the body is stiff2 it is soft1 and the flesh is nearly black1 if tainted4 ,save the blood as much as possible2 it improves the sauce very much4 ,in ,civet4--,when the hare is cleaned as directed for game1 cut in pieces4 ,have in a saucepan and on a good fire two ounces of butter and one of salt pork cut in dice4 ,stir1 and when the salt pork is fried take it off the pan1 and put the pieces of hare in it2 stir with a wooden spoon now and then1 till of a fine golden color2 then sprinkle on it a teaspoonful of flour1 add ten small onions1 four sprigs of parsley1 two of thyme1 two cloves of garlic1 a bay-leaf1 salt1 pepper1 about a pint of claret wine1 same of broth1 three or four mushrooms1 and a little grated nutmeg2 boil gently till done2 dish the pieces of hare2 throw away parsley1 thyme1 bay-leaf1 and garlic2 mix the blood of the hare1 if any1 in the sauce1 boil it about ten minutes longer1 turn it on the hare1 and serve warm4 ,many epicures like a civet better when prepared one or two days in advance1 and only warmed before serving4 ,when the civet is done1 and ready to serve1 place the dish in a cool1 dry place1 and when you want to eat the civet1 place the dish in a bain-marie1 or in an oven1 and serve when warm4 ,the same1 roasted4--,lard the hare well2 place it on the spit before a good fire2 baste often with the drippings1 and when properly cooked serve it with the following sauce3 put in a stewpan a piece of butter the size of a walnut1 and set it on a good fire2 when melted1 put in it the hare's liver well pounded1 then the blood1 if any1 also the drippings1 salt1 pepper1 a tablespoonful of white wine1 same of broth1 and one teaspoonful of vinegar2 when of a proper thickness1 serve with the hare4 ,it takes about an hour to roast it well4 ,in a small family1 the hind part is roasted1 and the fore part of the hare is dressed in civet4 ,baked4--,lard it with salt pork and bake it1 basting often3 serve in the same way as a roasted one4 ,the same1 next day4--,if any is left from the day before1 warm it and serve1 if in civet2 cut in slices and serve cold1 with an oil-sauce1 if roasted4 ,leveret4--,cook and serve like a hare4 ,a leveret may also be sauted like a chicken4 ,pheasant1 to select4--,when young1 the claws are short and round at the end1 while they are long and sharp when old4 ,they are not fresh when the rump is of a bluish color1 but some amateurs like them then2 in that state1 they are said to have a venison taste4 ,some hang the bird by the feathers of the tail and leave it so till it falls2 then they prepare and eat it4 ,it does not fall until very high1 or rather when tainted4 ,they ought not to be cooked when very fresh1 as they have not as delicate a taste then as when rather high4 ,pheasants are prepared1 cooked1 and served like prairie-birds in every way4 ,crane1 ,ostrich1 ,peacock1 ,pelican1 or other ,large ,birds4--,these birds are seldom eaten4 ,when old1 they are tough1 and of a disagreeable taste4 ,when young1 they are not so bad1 and may be prepared like a turkey stuffed or stewed4 ,prairie-bird1 ,prairie-hen1 and ,partridge4--,an old prairie-hen has a white bill and bluish legs2 when young1 the bill is of a rather dark-gray color1 and the legs are yellowish4 ,as long as the rump does not turn bluish1 it is fresh enough4 ,to prepare4--,clean and prepare a prairie-hen as directed for poultry in general4 ,baked4--,clean and prepare the bird as directed1 then cut off the claws to about half their length4 ,truss the prairie-hen as directed for chicken1 and then cover its breast with a thin slice of fat salt pork1 but do not cover the back of the bird4 ,tie the salt pork with twine4 ,place the prairie-hen on its back in the baking-pan1 with a piece of butter the size of a walnut on it2 set it in a quick oven 7about #djj deg4 ,fahr471 baste often1 and serve when rather underdone4 ,while the bird is baking1 prepare some fresh water-cress1 place some of it all around the bird2 mix lemon-juice with the gravy and turn it over the bird and water-cress1 and serve warm4 ,it may also be served after being baked1 the same as directed for a roasted one4 ,broiled4--,clean and prepare as directed1 then split the back of the prairie-hen so as to open it2 salt1 pepper1 and butter it by means of a brush2 place it on the gridiron over a good fire2 turn over three or four times2 as soon as done1 sprinkle on it a little allspice1 dish the bird1 spread a maitre d'hotel sauce on it1 and serve warm4 ,it is also served with a piquante1 poivrade1 or ravigote sauce4 ,another way4--,split the prairie-hen in two lengthwise so as to make two equal pieces4 ,put one ounce of butter in a stewpan and set it on a good fire2 when melted1 lay the two halves of the bird in2 turn over and leave them till a little more than half cooked1 when take them off4 ,envelop each piece in buttered paper1 place them on the gridiron1 and set it on a rather brisk fire for about fifteen minutes1 turning over once only1 and serve with the following sauce3 ,put with the butter in the pan in which was the bird1 about a teaspoonful of chopped parsley1 same of chopped mushrooms1 salt1 pepper1 and a pinch of allspice2 sprinkle in and stir at the same time a teaspoonful of flour2 add a gill of white wine1 same of broth2 boil gently till of a proper thickness1 and serve the bird with it1 either on the same dish or separately4 ,serve as warm as possible4 ,with ,cabbage4--,clean and truss the prairie-chicken as directed for birds2 fry it a little with butter1 just enough to color it2 then place a cabbage1 previously blanched1 cut in four pieces1 all around it2 also about four ounces of lean salt pork1 one onion whole2 just cover the whole with cold water 7it requires about one pint of it if the pan is of a proper size72 when the cabbage is boiled down1 baste occasionally with the juice1 and if it boils away add a little broth or water2 keep enough to baste till done1 then dish the prairie-chicken with the cabbage around1 also the salt pork if liked2 turn the juice all over through a strainer4 ,in case it is not salt enough1 add salt while basting4 ,the flesh of a prairie-chicken is naturally dry1 and by being cooked with cabbage it is kept moist all the time and is juicy when done4 ,for those who have no prejudice against cabbage1 it is the best way to prepare a prairie-bird4 ,another way4--,lard two prairie-birds as directed for larding1 after being cleaned and prepared as directed4 ,put in a stewpan half a pound of bacon cut in slices1 with four onions1 two carrots cut in pieces1 a small dried or ,bologna sausage1 two sprigs of parsley1 one of thyme1 two cloves1 a bay-leaf1 a little grated nutmeg1 and a cabbage cut rather fine1 and which is to be previously thrown in boiling water and boiled ten minutes2 then the two partridges or prairie-hens2 place over the whole four ounces of bacon cut in thin slices1 cover with broth1 set the pan on a sharp fire1 and when it has boiled about fifteen minutes1 subdue the fire1 or put the pan in a moderately heated oven1 simmer about two hours if the partridges are old1 and one hour if they are young2 then take from the fire1 place the partridges on a dish with the sausage cut in pieces around them1 drain the cabbage and put it on another dish with the bacon1 strain the sauce on both dishes1 and serve4 ,in ,chartreuse4--,it is made in a mould for ,charlotte russe1 or in one like the cut following4 ,clean the prairie-hen as directed for birds2 put it in a baking-pan with one ounce of butter spread on it1 also salt and pepper1 and a gill of cold water in the pan1 and bake till underdone1 when cut it in seven pieces1 making three slices in the breast1 lengthwise4 ,peel and slice two carrots and two turnips2 cut the slices about an inch thick2 then cut again in small round pieces1 with a fruit-corer1 about half an inch in diameter2 set them on the fire with cold water and salt1 boil gently till done1 drain and turn immediately in cold water1 and they are ready to be used4 ,put a small head of cabbage in a saucepan with half a pound of lean salt pork1 just cover it with cold water1 and boil gently till done4 ,the prairie-hen1 carrots1 and turnips1 and the cabbage1 may be cooked at the same time1 but separately1 as directed4 ,when the cabbage is done1 turn it into a colander1 cut it rather fine with a spoon1 press gently on it to get the water out as much as possible without mashing it through the colander1 and it is ready to be used4 ,butter the mould well2 place slices of boiled beets on the bottom2 some letters or flowers may be cut in beet1 the intervals or holes filled with turnips and carrots2 when the bottom is lined with beets1 carrots1 and turnips1 lay horizontally a row of pieces of carrots all around and against the sides of the mould2 place a similar one of turnips on the carrots1 and so on1 the last row being as high as the top of the mould4 ,then put a layer of the cabbage on the bottom1 about half an inch thick--that is1 on the carrots1 turnips1 and beets--place a like layer on the sides with a spoon2 put the pieces of prairie-hen in the middle1 cover with a layer of cabbage1 and bake about fifteen minutes in an oven at about #cej deg4 ,fahr4 ,the meat must not touch the carrots or turnips1 but be entirely surrounded with cabbage1 else it would crumble down in removing the mould4 ,as soon as the mould is taken out of the oven1 place a dish over it and turn it upside down1 leave it so about ten minutes to allow the juice to come out1 then remove the mould carefully1 and serve4 ,the cut below represents a chartreuse made exactly like the one described above1 with the exception that instead of having a row of carrots and a row of turnips1 they are mixed1 that is1 placed alternately1 the white spots representing pieces of turnips and the black spots pieces of carrots--the top being decorated according to fancy4 ,according to the size of the mould1 two1 three1 or more prairie-hens may be prepared at one time and in the same mould4 ,illustration ,roasted4--,rub the stomach and legs of the birds with lemon1 then envelop those parts with slices of bacon tied with twine1 or fixed with small skewers2 after which envelop the whole bird in buttered paper tied with twine2 place them on a spit before a good fire1 take the paper off after twenty or thirty minutes1 according to the age of the bird2 leave two or three minutes longer1 baste often during the process of roasting1 with the drippings2 dish the birds without removing the slices of bacon2 mix in the gravy the juice of half a lemon1 or half an orange1 a little salt and pepper1 and serve it with the birds4 ,it may also be served with water-cress and lemon-juice or vinegar4 ,when roasted or baked and dished1 place carpels of oranges all around1 and serve4 ,a roasted or baked prairie-hen is also served with the following sauces3 anchovy1 caper1 ,champagne1 cranberry1 and ravigote or tomato1 and currant-jelly4 ,with ,mushrooms4--,when roasted or baked1 serve it with a garniture of mushrooms4 ,it is also served with a garniture of cauliflowers1 financiere1 ,macedoine1 and of truffles4 ,in ,fricassee4--,prepare1 cook1 and serve it like chicken in fricassee4 ,in ,crapaudine4--,proceed as for pigeons in crapaudine1 the only difference being that it takes a little longer to cook4 ,it is also prepared and served as a quail1 hunter-like4 ,it takes longer to cook than a quail4 ,saute4--,clean1 prepare1 cut1 cook1 dish1 and serve the prairie-bird as a chicken saute4 ,stewed4--,clean1 prepare1 and truss the bird as directed4 ,put about one ounce of butter and two ounces of fat salt pork1 cut in dice1 in a saucepan1 and set it on a quick fire2 toss gently1 and when the butter is melted1 put the bird in and brown it all around2 then add four small onions1 half a carrot in slices1 salt1 and pepper2 stir till the onions and carrot are partly fried2 then add half a pint of broth1 same of white wine1 a bunch of seasonings composed of four or five stalks of parsley1 one of thyme1 one bay-leaf1 and a clove2 boil gently till done2 dish the bird1 turn the sauce over it through a strainer1 and serve warm4 ,thus stewed1 it may be served with the following purees3 asparagus1 beans1 lentils1 lima beans1 mushrooms1 and peas4 ,cold4--,a whole bird or part of it left from the preceding day's dinner1 if it has been broiled1 baked1 or roasted1 is prepared and served in salad1 like a chicken salad2 or in salmis4 ,boned4--,a boned prairie-bird makes an excellent dish and a most nutritious and warming one4 ,persons having a phlegmatic constitution ought to partake of it at least twice a week during hunting-time4 ,always select a very fresh and fat bird to bone4 ,pick1 bone1 fill1 cook1 and serve it as described for boned turkey4 ,a prairie-hen is more easily boned1 when fresh1 than an ordinary chicken4 ,the addition of truffles 7about half a pound for one bird7 makes it still richer and warmer4 ,in ,croquettes4--,prepare1 cook1 and serve as chicken croquettes4 ,quails4--,a quail1 like a prairie-bird1 is old when it has a white bill and bluish legs2 when young1 the bill is of a rather dark-gray color1 and the legs are yellowish4 ,quails are just the contrary of pheasants2 the more fresh they are when cooked1 the better4 ,to prepare4--,when cleaned and prepared as directed for poultry1 cut off the end of the claws1 and then truss it as a chicken1 sprinkle salt and pepper on the breast4 ,cut thin slices of fat salt pork1 somewhat square1 and of a proper size to cover the breast of the bird1 but not the back4 ,tie it to the bird with two pieces of twine1 then roast or bake4 ,another way to prepare them4--,when cleaned1 prepared1 and trussed as above1 envelop the bird with grape-vine leaves1 then in thin slices of salt-pork1 and roast or bake them4 ,they may also be enveloped in buttered paper1 after being prepared1 instead of salt pork or grape-vine leaves1 or instead of both1 but only to roast them2 if baked1 the buttered paper is placed over the birds4 ,baked4--,place the birds on their backs in a baking-pan1 with a piece of butter the size of a hazel-nut on each1 just cover the bottom of the pan with cold water1 and set in a quick oven 7about #djj deg4 ,fahr47 and baste now and then4 ,when about half done1 put the liver of the birds1 well pounded1 in the baking-pan1 and continue basting till done4 ,while the quails are baking1 cut as many square slices of stale bread as you have quails1 about three inches broad and one-fourth of an inch thick2 fry them in hot fat1 place them on the dish1 place a quail with the breast upward on each slice2 remove the twine1 turn the gravy over them and serve warm4 ,water-cress may be placed between each bird1 as well as all around1 and in the middle of the dish1 with vinegar or lemon-juice sprinkled all over4 ,it must also be served warm4 ,hunter-like 7au ,chasseur74--,clean and prepare as directed for birds4 ,set a saucepan on the fire with two ounces of butter to melt1 then put in it four quails trussed as for roasting2 turn them round in the pan to color every side2 add then half a dozen stalks of parsley1 salt1 pepper1 and nearly cover them with broth and white wine1 half of each2 boil gently till done4 ,dish the quails1 and put them away in a warm place4 ,strain the sauce and put it back on the fire with a tablespoonful of meuniere1 boil rather fast till it commences turning thick1 turn over the quails and serve warm4 ,roasted4--,when cleaned and prepared as directed1 envelop the birds in grape-vine leaves and salt pork1 or in buttered paper1 as directed above1 and place them on the spit before a moderate though good fire4 ,have slices of roasted bread in the dripping-pan1 baste often with the drippings1 and when done remove the twine1 or the twine and paper1 but neither the salt pork nor the grape-vine leaves1 and serve warm4 ,the slices of bread are placed on the dish1 then a quail on each slice4 ,water-cress may also be served as above4 ,quails roasted with grape-vine leaves are considered one of the most recherche dishes4 ,when about half roasted1 the liver of the birds1 well pounded1 is put in the dripping-pan1 and the drippings are turned over the birds when dished4 ,when pounded1 the livers may be spread on the slices of bread before placing them in the dripping-pan4 ,with ,green ,peas4--,when the quails are roasted or baked1 they may be served with green peas au jus4 ,they may also be served on a puree of celery or of mushrooms4 ,in ,chartreuse4--,proceed exactly as for a chartreuse of prairie-bird4 ,quails may be served in every way like prairie-hens1 stewed1 in salad1 in salmis1 etc4 ,rabbit--to select4--,a rabbit1 like almost every other kind of game1 has a better taste when a little seasoned1 but not too much so4 ,as long as the body is rather stiff1 it is good2 but when soft1 and when the flesh has a black-bluish appearance1 it is necessary to examine it carefully1 as it might be tainted4 ,a young rabbit has soft paws1 and are not much opened2 but an old one has them open1 hard1 and worn out4 ,the ears of a young one are very soft1 while those of an old one are stiff and comparatively rough4 ,the blood of the rabbit is a great improvement when mixed with the sauce or gravy accompanying it when served2 therefore1 we emphatically and earnestly ask of hunters1 when they kill rabbits1 to place them in their game-bags in such a position that the place where the shots have penetrated and through which the blood is escaping1 be upward1 and consequently stop the spilling of it4 ,tame rabbits1 unless they have been kept in a large place1 well fed1 free from any manure or dirt1 and having also plenty of room to burrow in a dry soil1 are very seldom fit to eat4 ,to lard4--,the fleshy parts of a rabbit are larded with salt pork in the same way as described for a fillet of beef4 ,baked4--,to bake it1 it may be larded or not1 according to taste4 ,when cleaned and prepared as directed for game1 place the rabbit in a baking-pan1 with a few slices of onion and carrot2 salt1 pepper1 and butter it2 cover the bottom of the pan with cold water and set it in a quick oven4 ,after ten or fifteen minutes1 turn the rabbit over1 baste and cover it with a piece of buttered paper4 ,continue basting till done4 ,when about half done1 if the water and juice are boiling away or absorbed1 add more water or broth1 and when done turn the gravy over the rabbit through a strainer1 and serve with water-cress and a few drops of lemon-juice or vinegar4 ,it is also served with a cranberry1 fines herbes1 mushroom1 piquante1 ravigote1 tomato1 and truffle sauce4 ,in ,chartreuse4--,a rabbit is prepared in chartreuse the same as a prairie-chicken2 the only difference is1 that it requires a larger mould2 the rest of the process is the same4 ,in ,civet1 or stewed4--,cut the rabbit in pieces1 and fry them with a little butter till turning rather brown1 when add half a pound of lean salt pork cut in dice2 stir and fry two or three minutes1 stir in also a tablespoonful of flour2 one minute after add a half pint of broth1 same of claret wine1 salt1 twelve small onions1 and a bunch of seasonings1 composed of three or four sprigs of parsley1 one of thyme1 a bay-leaf1 a clove of garlic1 one clove4 ,boil gently till done2 throw away the bunch of seasonings1 and serve warm4 ,in case it is not handy to use claret wine1 use a gill of ,madeira1 or ,port1 or ,sherry wine1 and one gill of water4 ,without wine at all it makes an inferior dish4 ,a civet made three or four days in advance1 and warmed in a bain-marie for ten minutes1 once every day1 is better than if eaten as soon as made4 ,in case the sauce is becoming too thick1 after warming the rabbit several times1 add a little broth1 and also a little butter2 stir gently1 and always serve as warm as possible4 ,in ,crapaudine4--,when cleaned and prepared as directed1 cook and serve the rabbit as described for pigeon in crapaudine1 with the exception that it takes a little longer to cook4 ,in ,croquettes4--,what may be left from the preceding day's dinner of a baked1 roasted1 or stuffed rabbit1 may be prepared in croquettes1 in the same way as chicken croquettes4 ,with ,currant-,jelly4--,a rabbit served with currant-jelly makes a sightly dish1 but it requires care and taste4 ,skin the rabbit carefully1 leaving the ears unskinned4 ,cut the legs at the first joint1 then dip the ears in hot 7but not boiling7 water1 and scrape off the hair carefully4 ,draw it and wash the inside carefully also1 putting away the liver1 heart1 and lungs4 ,chop fine one middling-sized onion1 and fry it with about one ounce of butter2 then add to the onion1 and fry them also1 the heart1 liver1 and lungs of the rabbit1 after being chopped fine1 when add a teaspoonful of chopped parsley1 salt1 pepper1 nutmeg grated1 and a piece of clove also grated4 ,stir for about one minute1 take from the fire1 mix with it two yolks of eggs and one ounce of butter4 ,fill the rabbit with the mixture1 sew up the incision made to draw it1 and then truss it in the following way3 ,put the rabbit on the paste-board so that it appears as if it were resting1 lying on its belly4 ,skewer the ears so that they seem to be naturally bent on the back of the neck4 ,with a trussing-needle fasten the forelegs so that they look also as if naturally bent by the animal when at rest4 ,roast or bake it1 and serve it with the gravy and currant or raspberry jelly4 ,it is placed on the dish lying on its belly1 the skewers and twine are removed1 and a few sprigs of parsley are placed in its mouth4 ,the currant-jelly may be served in a saucer and the gravy in another4 ,in ,gibelotte4--,the only difference between a gibelotte and a civet is that the latter is made with claret wine and the former with ,sauterne or ,catawba4 ,other white wine may be used1 but the two kinds above mentioned are the best4 ,marengo4--,when cleaned and prepared as directed1 cut the rabbit in pieces2 keep the head1 neck1 and trimmings1 to make a potage au chasseur1 and cook and serve the rest as a chicken a la ,marengo4 ,in ,papillotes4--,the four legs and two pieces cut on both sides of the backbone may be prepared1 cooked1 and served as veal cutlets in papillotes4 ,the rest is used to make a potage au chasseur4 ,with ,olives4--,when baked or roasted1 serve it as a duck with olives1 putting three dozen olives instead of two4 ,roasted4--,it may be roasted with only a little butter spread all over it1 or enveloped in buttered paper2 or larded with salt pork2 or larded and enveloped in buttered paper4 ,it must be basted often1 and if enveloped with paper1 the paper must be removed about fifteen minutes before taking the rabbit from the fire4 ,ascertain when done by means of a skewer or a small sharp-pointed knife4 ,it takes about forty-five minutes to roast1 according to size and fire4 ,when roasted it may be served with its gravy or drippings only1 or with a cranberry1 fines herbes1 mushroom1 piquante1 ,provencale1 ravigote1 ,tartar1 tomato1 or truffle sauce4 ,with ,green ,peas4--,when baked or roasted1 serve it with green peas au jus4 ,saute4--,when the rabbit is cleaned and prepared as directed1 proceed as for a chicken saute in every particular4 ,sportsman-like4--,clean and prepare the rabbit1 then cut off the neck1 head1 and the end of the legs1 which you keep to make a potage au chasseur4 ,put the rest in a crockery vessel with the juice of a lemon1 salt1 and pepper4 ,leave thus for at least one day1 turning it over two or three times4 ,then bake or roast it1 and serve with the gravy and water-cress4 ,stewed4--,when cleaned and prepared1 cut the rabbit in pieces4 ,put in a saucepan three ounces of butter and set it on the fire2 as soon as melted1 put the pieces of rabbit in1 stir now and then till they are turning rather brown1 then take them from the pan but keep it on the fire4 ,put in it a rather small carrot and two or three onions1 both sliced1 a few slices of turnip1 half a dozen sprigs of parsley1 two of celery1 one of thyme1 the last three tied together with twine1 and two or three cloves1 also half a pint of ,madeira or ,sherry wine1 salt1 and pepper2 cover the whole with broth or water2 boil gently till half done1 when add the rabbit1 and continue boiling till the whole is done1 stirring once in a while4 ,dish the rabbit1 mash the onions1 carrot1 and turnip1 through a colander1 which you put all around the pieces of rabbit1 strain the sauce over the whole1 and serve warm4 ,cold4--,what is left is warmed and served1 if from a civet1 giblotte1 stewed1 etc41 and served with a vinaigrette1 if from a roasted or baked piece4 ,it may also be served with a piquante1 poivrade1 or ravigote sauce4 ,snipe--to truss4--,prepare as directed for poultry4 ,cut the wings off just above the second joint1 as seen in the cut below4 ,the head and legs must be cleaned very carefully4 ,by heating the lower part of the legs and the claws1 the skin can be easily removed1 but this is not necessary1 they may be singed and washed only4 ,fold the legs and run the bill of the bird through the two legs and the body4 ,put a slice of fat salt pork on the breast of the snipe1 which you fasten there with twine1 as seen in the cut below4 ,the cut represents the bird on the spit1 ready for roasting4 ,illustration ,stewed4--,take four snipes and pound the livers1 hearts1 and lungs well with about the same amount of fat salt pork2 then add to them about a teaspoonful of parsley chopped fine1 and the yolk of an egg2 divide the mixture in four parts and put each part in a bird1 which you sew and truss as directed4 ,line the bottom of a stewpan with slices of salt pork and lay the snipe on them2 set on a slow fire for ten minutes1 add about half a pint of white wine1 same of broth2 simmer till done1 dish the birds1 strain the gravy on them1 sprinkle a few drops of lemon-juice over the whole1 and serve warm4 ,snipes are served in several ways1 as described for bobolinks and other small birds4 ,salmis4--,a salmis is made with tame ducks and any kind of game birds4 ,birds may be roasted or baked to make a salmis1 but most generally it is made with cold birds1 that is1 what is left from the previous day's dinner4 ,it is certainly the best way to make use of cold birds4 ,the proportions of the different seasonings are according to the proportion of meat4 ,we give below the proportions for a whole bird2 it will be easy to augment or reduce4 ,put two ounces of butter in a saucepan and set it on the fire2 as soon as melted stir into it a tablespoonful of flour2 when turning rather yellow add one pint of broth1 same of claret wine1 a bunch of seasonings composed of four or five sprigs of parsley1 one of thyme1 a bay-leaf and a clove1 also salt1 pepper1 and a clove of garlic2 boil gently about thirty-five minutes4 ,strain the sauce into a saucepan4 ,cut the bird or part of bird in pieces1 the same as they are generally carved2 put them in the pan with the sauce2 place the saucepan in a bain-marie till the meat is warm1 add some lemon-juice1 and serve4 ,while the meat is warming1 cut some stale bread in croutons1 fry them with a little butter4 ,to serve4--,a salmis is served in two ways3 first1 the croutons are placed on the dish1 a piece of meat is put on each1 and then the sauce is poured all over2 second1 dish the meat and sauce1 place the croutons all around the dish1 with a piece of lemon or bitter orange between each crouton4 ,when the croutons are served under the pieces of meat1 you must have as many as there are pieces2 when served around the dish1 have enough of them1 and of slices of lemon1 to surround the dish4 ,the croutons and slices of lemon are always placed around the meat and on the border of the dish4 ,the lemon or orange is first split in two lengthwise1 then cut in eight1 twelve1 or sixteen slices1 always commencing to cut on the inside and finishing by the rind4 ,chop fine the bones1 heart1 and liver of the bird1 and put them in the saucepan at the same time with the broth4 ,truffles or mushrooms sliced may be added to the sauce1 if liked1 but only when strained4 ,another4--,carve the bird or part of it1 and serve cold with the following sauce2 pound the liver of the bird and put it in a saucer2 add to it a little vinegar1 salt1 pepper1 and stir and mix the whole2 then add about three times as much oil as vinegar1 mix again1 then lemon-juice1 stir1 and serve4 ,it may be made without vinegar at all1 using lemon-juice instead of vinegar to mix at first4 ,,opossum1 ,,otter1 ,,raccoon1 ,,skunk1 ,,fox1 ,,woodchuck1 ,,and ,,other ,,like ,,animals4 ,we cannot say that we have had much experience in cooking the above animals1 but they are all eaten by many persons1 in different parts of this and other countries4 ,we have tasted of all or them except the raccoon1 and we must say that we found them palatable4 ,it is well known that when our soldiers retook possession of ,ship ,island1 they found plenty of raccoons on it1 and ate all they could catch4 ,one day we happened to meet a sub-officer1 who was there at the time1 and inquired of him about it4 ,he said he had never eaten any raccoons before1 and did not know that they were eatable2 but now he could eat them as readily as rabbit1 as they were quite as good4 ,the best time to eat any of the animals enumerated above is from ,christmas to the #aeth of ,february4 ,how to prepare them4--,as soon as the animal is killed skin it1 take the inside out1 save the liver and heart1 and wash well with lukewarm water and a little salt1 inside and out2 then wipe dry with a towel1 put inside a few leaves of sage1 bay-leaves1 mint1 and thyme1 and sew it up4 ,hang it outside in a place sheltered from the sun1 such as the northern side of a building2 leave it thus five or six days1 then take off1 and cook4 ,how to skin a ,skunk4--,we were hunting one day in ,new ,jersey1 northwest of ,paterson1 with a friend and two farmers living there1 when one of them shot a skunk4 ,we asked him how much he could get for the skin4 ,he said it was not worth while to take it to town1 but that he would eat the animal1 as it was very good4 ,we thought at first that he was joking2 but putting his gun and game-bag to the ground1 he looked at us earnestly1 and said1 ,gentlemen1 you seem to doubt2 ,i will show you how it is done4 ,we soon saw that we had been mistaken4 ,we made a fire1 took hold of the skunk by the head with one hand1 and with a stick in the other held the skunk over the fire4 ,he burnt off nearly all the hair1 taking care to avoid burning the skin1 commencing at the hind legs2 then with his hunting-knife he carefully cut off the bag containing the fetid matter1 and skinned and cleaned it4 ,we then examined the skunk1 and although it had not been washed1 we could not find any part of it with a bad smell1 and if we had not seen the whole operation we certainly would not have thought that it was a skunk1 the very name of which is repulsive4 ,the following week we dined with the farmer1 ate some of that identical skunk1 and found it very good4 ,how to cook the above-named ,animals4--,take out the leaves of sage1 etc41 which you put in the animal before exposing it to the weather4 ,pound well the liver and heart with about the same quantity of bacon1 then mix that with two or three teaspoonfuls of chopped parsley1 a pinch of grated nutmeg1 salt1 and pepper2 stuff the animal with that mixture1 and also with six small onions fried in butter1 and a bunch of seasoning composed of four sprigs of parsley1 three of thyme1 two cloves1 two cloves of garlic1 and two bay-leaves1 and sew it up again4 ,butter it well all over1 place it on a spit before a very quick fire2 put three or four sage-leaves in the dripping-pan1 and baste often with the drippings4 ,serve it when cooked with the gravy1 throwing away the sage-leaves4 ,it may also be served with a ,mayonnaise1 ravigote1 or ,tartar sauce4 ,squirrel4--,a squirrel is prepared as a rabbit in every particular4 ,,venison4 ,if young1 the hoof is not much opened1 and the fat is thick and clear2 when old1 the hoofs are wide open4 ,to know if it is fresh enough1 run a knife or a skewer through the leg or through the shoulder1 and if it does not smell bad and stale1 it is good4 ,it is not as delicate when fresh as when it has been killed for five or six days4 ,if fresh when you buy it1 keep it from three to eight days before cooking it4 ,to improve4--,put the piece of venison in a crockery vessel4 ,for about six pounds put a pint of vinegar in a saucepan with two bay-leaves1 two cloves1 two cloves of garlic1 one onion sliced1 two stalks of thyme1 four of parsley1 and twelve pepper-corns2 set it on the fire1 give one boil1 and turn over the piece of venison4 ,turn the piece of meat over occasionally for one or two days1 and then cook it4 ,another way4--,lard the piece of venison and put it in a crockery vessel2 spread all over two or three onions and a clove or two of garlic 7both sliced71 half a gill of sweet-oil1 same of claret wine1 a pinch of allspice1 four cloves1 and two sprigs of thyme2 baste twice a day for two or three days1 and then cook4 ,to bake4--,put the venison in a baking-pan with the seasonings in which it has improved2 spread some butter on it1 and bake in a rather quick oven2 baste now and then1 and turn over if necessary4 ,when baked1 serve with a ravigote sauce1 to which you have added the gravy from the pan in which it has been baked4 ,serve it also with a cranberry1 piquante1 ,robert1 or ,tartar sauce1 or with currant-jelly4 ,in ,civet4--,shoulder1 neck1 and breast-pieces are cut and prepared in civet1 in the same way as a civet of rabbit4 ,it may also be kept three or four days and warmed in a bain-marie2 it improves it as much as that of rabbit4 ,with ,mushrooms4--,any piece of venison1 baked or roasted1 may be served with a garniture of mushrooms4 ,cutlets1 broiled4--,the cutlets are much better when improved as directed4 ,the seasonings are spread all over4 ,they are then wrapped up in buttered paper and broiled on a quick fire4 ,they may also be larded with salt pork1 and then broiled with or without being enveloped in paper4 ,when broiled and dished1 serve them warm with a maitre d'hotel or ravigote sauce4 ,sautees4--,put six cutlets in a stewpan1 larded or not1 with salt1 pepper1 eight small onions1 two carrots1 four sprigs of parsley1 two of thyme1 two cloves1 a bay-leaf1 a gill of broth1 and same of water2 set it on a good fire and boil gently till cooked4 ,dish the cutlets so that every small end or bone rests on the larger end of another1 and serve with the sauce strained on them4 ,if more sauce is desired1 add to it any of the following3 cranberry1 piquante1 ravigote1 ,robert1 or ,tartar4 ,haunch1 roasted4--,after being improved1 if liked1 remove the thin skin around it and lard it with salt pork2 it may be roasted without larding1 but it is certainly an improvement1 the meat being naturally dry4 ,place it on the spit before a brisk fire and near it2 baste with melted butter first1 and then with the drippings till done4 ,if it is larded1 it will require less butter4 ,as soon as a kind of crust forms around the meat1 remove it a little from the fire by degrees4 ,ascertain with a skewer or small knife when done4 ,venison is generally served rather underdone1 when roasted or baked4 ,to make the dish more sightly1 the skin and hair of the lower part of the leg1 together with the hoof1 are left untouched4 ,to prevent them from burning while it is roasting1 envelop these parts with a wet towel1 which you cover with several sheets of buttered or oiled paper4 ,it may be necessary to dip the towel in water two or three times during the process of roasting4 ,when roasted1 serve with any of the following sauces3 cranberry1 piquante1 poivrade1 ravigote1 ,robert1 or ,tartar2 also with currant-jelly4 ,if served with the gravy only1 add water-cress and lemon-juice or vinegar4 ,baked4--,prepare it as directed for roasting2 then place it in a bakepan with a little cold water1 just enough to cover the bottom of the pan2 sprinkle salt and pepper all over1 spread some butter on the upper side and put in a quick oven4 ,turn over and baste now and then till done4 ,if the water is absorbed1 add more4 ,when baked1 serve with the same sauces as if roasted1 and also with currant-jelly and water-cress4 ,saddle4--,roast or bake the saddle1 and serve it as directed for a haunch1 with the same sauces1 and also with water-cress and currant-jelly4 ,shoulder4--,cut the shoulder in fillets and lard them slightly4 ,put in a stewpan four ounces of butter and set it on a brisk fire2 when hot1 lay the fillets in1 and when of a golden color add the seasonings in which you have improved the saddle1 or the same ones if you have not done it2 then subdue the fire1 wet with a little warm broth1 simmer till cooked1 dish the fillets1 strain the sauce on them1 and serve4 ,it may also be dressed entire1 with the bones off2 but it is more generally done in fillets4 ,it is boned like a shoulder of mutton1 and roasted or baked1 and served like a haunch1 with the same sauces and with currant-jelly or water-cress4 ,stewed4--,cut the meat in square pieces1 about two inches in size4 ,have in a stewpan1 and on a good fire1 a piece of butter the size of a duck's egg2 when melted1 sprinkle in1 little by little1 a tablespoonful of flour1 stirring the while with a wooden spoon2 when getting rather thick1 add two ounces of bacon cut in dice1 also half a pint of claret wine1 same of warm water1 salt1 pepper1 a pinch of allspice1 two shallots chopped fine1 or two green onions1 four or five mushrooms1 two cloves of garlic1 and six onions2 then lay the meat on the whole1 and boil gently till cooked4 ,dish the meat1 boil the sauce till of a brownish color1 skim off the fat if there is too much of it1 take out the cloves of garlic1 turn the sauce on the meat1 and serve hot4 ,with ,truffles or ,mushrooms4--,any part of venison1 baked or roasted1 may be served with a garniture of mushrooms1 or one of truffles4 ,cold4--,when you have some left for the next day1 warm it before serving it1 if from a stew2 but if from a roasted haunch1 cut in slices and serve cold with a vinaigrette4 ,,snails4 ,a good many are now imported from ,europe4 ,how to clean and prepare4--,throw them in boiling water1 in which you have put some wood-ashes2 leave them in till they have thrown their cover wide open1 which will take about fifteen minutes2 then take them off1 pull them out of the shell by means of a fork1 place them in lukewarm water1 and leave two hours2 next1 rub them in your hands1 and then soak in cold water2 rub them again in your hands in cold water1 two or three times1 changing the water each time1 so as to take away most of their sliminess4 ,wash the shells in lukewarm water with a scrubbing-brush1 and drain them when clean4 ,broiled4--,knead together and make a paste of a sufficient quantity of butter1 parsley chopped fine1 salt1 pepper1 and grated nutmeg2 say about two ounces of butter1 a tablespoonful of parsley1 a saltspoonful of salt1 a pinch of pepper1 and the same of nutmeg 7for two dozen74 ,put a piece of the above paste1 the size of a kidney bean1 in each shell1 then the snails1 and at the top again the same quantity of paste2 lay them one by one close together1 in a crockery or cast-iron kettle1 the mouth of the snails up1 and not one upon another2 cover the kettle well2 set it on a moderate fire1 or in a moderately heated oven1 and leave thus till cooked1 which is easily seen by the parsley beginning to turn black1 or as if fried4 ,lay them on a dish in the same order1 and if there is any gravy in the kettle1 put a part of it in each shell1 and serve hot4 ,in eating them1 be careful after having taken off the snail and eaten it1 to turn down the shell1 for there is some juice in the bottom of it which is delicious2 the best way is to drink it as if from the bottom of a glass4 ,they can be broiled on a gridiron1 but they are not as good as in a kettle2 some of the juice is lost1 and also the flavor4 ,stewed4--,put in a stewpan four ounces of butter for fifty snails1 and set it on a good fire2 when melted1 sprinkle in it a teaspoonful of flour1 stirring a while2 then add a teaspoonful of parsley chopped fine1 two sprigs of thyme1 a bay-leaf1 a pint of white wine1 and then the snails1 which you have previously put back into their shells2 cover the whole with warm broth1 boil gently till the sauce is reduced and the snails are cooked1 and serve them mouth upward1 and filled with the sauce4 ,,vegetables4 ,green vegetables must look fresh1 and have nothing rotten about them4 ,to boil or blanch ,green ,vegetables4--,whatever they are1 spinach1 green peas1 asparagus1 etc41 put some cold water and a little salt on the fire2 clean the vegetable1 wash it if necessary1 then drop it in the water at the first boil2 keep boiling for a time or till done2 drain1 and immediately drop it in cold water2 drain again before using4 ,it is impossible to tell how long it takes to boil2 it depends entirely on the nature of the vegetable3 for instance1 spinach1 as well as peas or any other vegetable1 according to how tender it is1 may take from three to twenty minutes to cook properly4 ,dry vegetables1 such as beans1 peas1 lentils1 etc41 are washed or soaked in cold water1 drained1 and then set on the fire with cold water and no salt4 ,salt renders beans much harder and retards their cooking4 ,other vegetables that are neither green nor dry1 such as carrots1 turnips1 etc41 are generally set on the fire with cold water and salt4 ,if prepared in other ways1 it is explained in the receipts4 ,potatoes are generally steamed2 when they must be boiled1 it is explained4 ,we recommend to drop the green vegetables in the water at the first boil1 because1 in boiling1 water evaporates its gases and alkali1 and is therefore inferior for cooking purposes4 ,green vegetables are more acid here than in ,europe1 on account of the newness and richness of the soil2 so is some fruit4 ,artichokes4--,the artichoke we refer to here is the plant somewhat resembling a thistle1 having a large1 scaly head1 like the cone of the pine-tree2 the lower part of the leaves composing the head1 with the broad receptacle underneath1 is the eatable part4 ,it is a native of ,sicily1 and is an excellent and delicate vegetable4 ,it grows well here1 and the reason why it is not more generally known is because some persons who are used to live on coarse food have underrated it--their palates not being fit to appreciate its delicate flavor4 ,we recommend gardeners and farmers to cultivate it2 they will find a ready market4 ,how to eat them raw4--,quarter them1 take off the outer leaves and choke1 and serve with oil1 vinegar1 mustard1 salt1 and pepper4 ,how to cook4--,clean them and take off the outer leaves1 throw them into boiling water1 with parsley1 salt1 and pepper 7they are cooked when the leaves come off easily71 then take from the fire and drain1 taking care to put them upside down4 ,the same1 fried4--,when cooked as above1 cut the upper part of the leaves1 and then cut them in eight pieces1 take the choke off1 dip each piece in a thin paste made of flour1 sweet-oil1 beaten egg1 vinegar1 salt1 and pepper1 and fry them with a little butter4 ,serve them with sprigs of fried parsley around4 ,the same1 stewed4--,when cooked as directed above1 cut them in four pieces1 and trim off the upper part of the leaves1 take off the choke1 and lay them in a stewpan2 cover them with broth and set on a moderate fire2 add then one ounce of butter for six artichokes1 one sprig of parsley1 and two mushrooms cut in slices2 boil ten minutes1 take the parsley off1 and serve the artichokes with the mushrooms around2 pour the sauce on the whole4 ,in ,vinaigrette4--,cook1 and serve with a vinaigrette4 ,the ,jerusalem artichokes are dressed like potatoes4 ,asparagus4--,this is thought to be a native of ,asia4 ,the white asparagus sells dearer than the other kinds1 but we cannot say that it is on account of its better quality1 it is most likely for being more sightly when served4 ,if it is kept for some time before boiling it1 place the bunch in about half an inch deep of cold water1 the top upward1 and keep in a cool place4 ,there are only four ways of preparing asparagus without changing or destroying the natural taste of the plant4 ,the large ones1 or what is called the first cut1 is prepared in vinaigrette1 white sauce1 and fried2 the small one1 or second cut1 is cooked en petits pois--like green peas4 ,it is better and has more taste when boiled rather underdone1 that is1 taken from the water when still firm2 if boiled till soft1 it loses its taste and is not crisp4 ,to boil4--,cut off some of the white part1 so as to have the whole of one length if possible2 then scrape the white end a little1 soak in cold water for a few minutes1 and drain4 ,tie it in small bunches of half a dozen or a dozen1 according to size1 and drop them in boiling water and a little salt1 at the first boil of the water4 ,boil till rather underdone1 take off1 drain and drop in cold water immediately4 ,drain again1 and it is ready to serve4 ,en ,petits ,pois4--,cut small asparagus in pieces about half an inch long1 and blanch them for three minutes4 ,take off and drain2 then put them in a saucepan on the fire with two or three tablespoonfuls of broth1 stir now and then for about two minutes1 add a teaspoonful of flour2 stir again1 and as soon as mixed with the asparagus add also about one ounce of butter1 salt1 pepper1 and chopped parsley1 stir1 and1 when the butter is melted1 serve4 ,fried4--,blanch the asparagus two minutes1 drain it2 dip each in batter and fry in hot fat4 ,take off with a skimmer when done2 and turn into a colander1 salt it1 and serve hot4 ,in ,vinaigrette4--,boil it as directed4 ,when cold1 serve with a vinaigrette4 7,this is also called a l'huile47 ,with ,white ,sauce4--,while it is boiling1 make a white sauce2 drain the asparagus and serve both1 sauce and vegetable1 warm4 ,the asparagus is not dropped in cold water4 ,with ,cream ,sauce4--,it is prepared and served as with a white sauce4 ,in ,omelet4--,boil the asparagus as directed1 and when cool cut it in small pieces about half an inch long1 and when the omelet is ready to be folded in two1 a little while before taking from the fire1 place the asparagus in the middle1 then fold and serve the omelet as if there were nothing in it4 ,green or ,string ,beans1 ,dwarf or ,snap ,beans1 ,french ,haricots1 ,pole ,beans1 ,kidney ,beans1 etc4--,to prepare them when green and cooked with the pods4--,remove the string or thread that is on both sides1 by partly breaking one end of the pod and pulling lengthwise1 repeat the same for the other side2 cut them in pieces half an inch long1 soak them in cold water1 and throw them into boiling water with a little salt4 ,boil them till cooked1 which you will know by pressing one between your fingers to see if tender2 take them from the fire1 throw them into cold water to cool1 and drain them4 ,au jus4--,cook a quart of beans4 ,put two ounces of butter in a stewpan and set it on the fire2 when melted1 put the beans in with a teaspoonful of chopped parsley2 stir five minutes2 then add a gill of broth1 salt1 and pepper2 simmer twenty minutes1 and1 just on taking from the fire1 mix in it two well-beaten yolks of eggs1 with the juice of half a lemon1 and serve4 ,maitre d'hotel4--,put in a stewpan two ounces of butter1 and set it on a good fire2 when melted1 put in it a quart of beans cooked in water1 with a pinch of grated nutmeg1 half a pint of milk1 salt1 pepper1 and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley2 keep stirring continually1 boil ten minutes1 take from the fire1 mix in it two beaten yolks of eggs1 and serve4 ,the same1 with ,onions4--,put two ounces of butter in a stewpan and set it on the fire2 when hot1 put in it two onions cut in slices1 and fry them4 ,then add salt1 pepper1 a pinch of grated nutmeg1 a saltspoonful of chopped parsley1 and a quart of beans cooked in water2 also half a pint of boiling water2 boil ten minutes1 stir with a wooden spoon1 take from the fire1 sprinkle in it a few drops of vinegar1 and serve4 ,the same1 in ,salad4--,cook the beans in water1 as directed above2 then put a layer of them in a crockery vessel1 the layer to be about one inch thick2 then sprinkle on it salt and pepper2 repeat the same process till all your beans are in2 cover and leave thus three or four hours2 then throw away the water1 or drain if convenient2 place the beans in a salad-dish1 with the sweet-oil1 vinegar1 and parsley necessary2 move like a salad1 and serve cold4 ,green1 shelled1 ,lima1 or other ,beans4--,shell the beans1 throw them in boiling water with a little salt1 and when cooked drain them4 ,put two ounces of butter for a quart of beans in a saucepan1 and when melted put the beans in with salt and pepper2 toss gently now and then for three or four minutes1 then add about a teaspoonful of vinegar1 or the juice of half a lemon1 and half a teaspoonful of parsley chopped4 ,mix and serve warm4 ,they may also be prepared as string-beans1 either au jus1 in maitre d'hotel1 or in salad4 ,dry ,beans1 ,lima1 ,white or ,colored4--,dry beans must be soaked in water for some time4 ,some require to be soaked twenty-four hours1 others only five or six hours4 ,those that require to be soaked long are not from the last harvest1 but have been kept for two or more years4 ,if you are not sure that the beans 7especially the white7 are from this year's crop1 soak them for twenty-four hours in cold water1 and then drain them4 ,to boil4--,put the beans in a saucepan with cold water1 and boil gently till tender4 ,if the water boils away1 fill up with cold water1 but never put any salt to boil dry beans1 it prevents them from cooking4 ,as soon as boiled tender1 drain them1 and they are ready for use4 ,au jus4--,when boiled as above1 set them on the fire in a stewpan with a few tablespoonfuls of gravy or broth1 salt1 and a little butter1 stir for two or three minutes1 then add a little chopped parsley1 and serve warm4 ,maitre d'hotel4--,when boiled as above1 drain and put them in a saucepan with about three ounces of butter for a quart of beans1 stir now and then1 and when the butter is melted1 add salt1 pepper1 a teaspoonful of chopped parsley1 and a few drops of vinegar2 just mix and serve4 ,with ,salt ,pork4--,boil a quart of beans as directed above1 and drain them4 ,cut in dice about half a pound of bacon and put it in a saucepan on the fire2 when about half fried add the beans1 mix and stir for one minute1 then put in a warm oven for about twenty minutes1 stirring occasionally2 when done1 sprinkle on it some parsley chopped fine1 pepper and salt to taste1 if not salt enough4 ,there are several ways of preparing pork and beans1 but the one we give above is the most general in ,new ,england4 ,the pork must neither be too fat nor too lean4 ,it may be done also with ham and fresh pork4 ,with ,mutton4--,boil as directed about three pints of white beans and drain them4 ,when the leg of mutton is about half roasted1 put the beans in the dripping-pan1 and stir occasionally till the meat is done1 and serve them with it4 ,it makes a very nourishing dish1 but it would be rather heavy for persons having sedentary avocations4 ,two quarts of beans would not be too much for a good-sized leg of mutton4 ,it may also be prepared with any other piece of mutton2 shoulder1 saddle1 etc4 ,boiled with ,mutton or ,pork4--,prepare a quart of beans as directed1 and then boil them ten minutes and drain them4 ,cut in rather large dice about two pounds of breast or neck of mutton or the same of pork1 and of the same pieces1 and put meat and beans in a stewpan1 cover well with cold water2 season with a bunch of seasonings composed of five or six sprigs of parsley1 one of thyme1 a bay-leaf1 and two cloves1 salt1 pepper1 a little nutmeg grated1 a carrot cut in three or four pieces1 two onions1 and a piece of turnip4 ,boil gently till the whole is thoroughly cooked2 remove the seasonings1 and serve meat and beans together4 ,this makes also a nourishing dish and not an expensive one4 ,the nutritive qualities of beans are very well known1 and very much exaggerated too4 ,even ,professor ,liebig once said that four quarts of beans and two pounds of corned beef or pork boiled to rags1 in fifty quarts of water1 will furnish a good meal for forty men4 ,we must say that we have not been able to try the experiment1 but we should like very much to see what kind and how much work forty men would do1 and for how long1 with such a diet4 ,there are many things that look or seem well1 and even magnificent in theory1 though entirely impracticable4 ,it sounds well1 especially to those who do not understand the meaning of it1 to say that we feed mostly on gluten1 albumen1 gelatine1 etc41 and that we require so many ounces of carbon1 oxygen1 etc41 in twenty-four hours4 ,every thing that we eat may be1 with the exception of salt1 turned into charcoal2 but no one has yet been known to feed on it4 ,colored ,beans1 stewed4--,soak1 boil five minutes1 and drain a quart of beans4 ,put in a stewpan half a pound of bacon and set it on the fire2 five minutes after1 put the beans in1 with four small onions1 salt1 and pepper1 boil gently till cooked1 and drain4 ,put two ounces of butter in a stewpan on the fire2 when melted1 sprinkle in it a teaspoonful of flour1 same of chopped parsley1 then the beans1 without the bacon and onions2 toss now and then for ten minutes1 then add half a pint of claret wine1 the same of the water in which they were cooked1 boil gently twenty minutes2 then put in it also the bacon and onions1 boil five minutes longer1 and serve the whole on the same dish4 ,beets1 stewed4--,clean and wash well1 but do not skin them4 ,put in a crockery vessel a layer of rye straw1 moisten it slightly1 place the beets on it1 cover the vessel1 and place it in a slow oven for five or six hours2 cool and skin them4 ,when cooked1 cut them in thin slices4 ,put butter in a stewpan1 and when melted sprinkle in it a pinch of flour1 a teaspoonful of chopped parsley1 salt1 and pepper1 then the beets2 simmer twenty minutes1 add a few drops of vinegar1 and serve4 ,cabbages--to boil4--,take off the outer leaves1 clean1 cut in four pieces1 free it from stump and stalk1 and drop it in boiling water with a little salt and a piece of charcoal4 ,boil slowly till tender1 and drain4 ,cabbage contains some sulphur1 and evaporates an unpleasant odor while boiling1 and especially while boiling fast4 ,by putting a piece of charcoal in the pot1 it does not smell as much4 ,with ,bacon4--,when boiled and drained1 put the cabbage in a stewpan with bacon1 sausage1 and a piece of breast of mutton2 cover with cold water1 season with three or four sprigs of parsley1 a carrot1 a clove1 a little nutmeg1 salt and pepper2 boil till the whole is well cooked1 remove the seasonings and drain2 dish the cabbage1 put the meat on it1 and serve warm4 ,with ,milk1 or a la ,creme4--,boil and drain the cabbage as directed above4 ,put two ounces of butter in a saucepan1 set it on a good fire1 and when melted put the cabbage in with salt and pepper4 ,sprinkle on it a teaspoonful of flour1 add half a pint of cream or good milk2 keep stirring with a wooden spoon during the whole process2 boil gently till the sauce is reduced1 and serve warm4 ,stewed4--,boil and drain two large heads of cabbage1 and cut them very fine4 ,put about three ounces of butter in a saucepan on the fire1 and when melted put the cabbage in and stir for five minutes2 then add salt1 pepper1 and a pinch of flour2 wet with a pint of broth1 boil till cooked and the sauce reduced1 then serve warm4 ,a l',allemande4--,blanch for ten minutes some white or green cabbage and drain it4 ,put six ounces of salt pork1 cut in dice1 in a saucepan on the fire1 and when partly fried put two or three small heads of cabbage in1 stir1 and when done1 add a little gravy1 and serve warm4 ,with ,apples4--,blanch for about ten minutes a head of cabbage and drain it4 ,put two or three ounces of butter in a saucepan on the fire1 and put the cabbage in when the butter is melted with four or five apples peeled1 quartered1 and cored2 also a little salt and a little sugar1 about half a pint of water or broth1 boil gently till done1 and serve as warm as possible4 ,generally1 cabbages are better when prepared at least one day in advance1 and then warmed in a bain-marie before serving2 a little butter may be added while it is warming4 ,any kind of cabbage is prepared as directed in the above ways4 ,red ,cabbage in ,salad4--,take a hard head of red cabbage1 and when all the outer leaves are removed1 see if it is clean1 but do not wash it2 if a cabbage is not clean1 do not use it for salad 7as you want a hard one1 and a hard one is always clean when the outer leaves are taken off74 ,then cut it in four pieces1 trim off the stump and coarse ends of the leaves2 cut it as thin as possible1 as in making sour-krout1 put it in a crockery vessel1 with salt1 vinegar1 and pepper sprinkled on1 cover and leave thus from four to six hours2 then throw away the water or vinegar1 dress as another salad1 with oil and vinegar1 and serve4 ,the same1 stewed4--,blanch the cabbage for about ten minutes and drain it2 then put it in a saucepan with about an ounce of butter and stir for five minutes1 when add a little salt1 a little sugar1 a gill of claret wine1 and same of broth or water4 ,boil gently till done1 and serve4 ,stuffed4--,remove the outer leaves of either a green1 white1 or red cabbage1 see that it be clean1 then put it in a bowl1 and pour boiling water on it4 ,leave it so till the leaves are soft and pliable1 when take off and drain4 ,cut off the stump carefully1 place the cabbage on the table1 the top upward1 then open it gently by spreading the leaves all around without breaking them2 then1 commencing with the centre leaves1 put some sausage-meat between the leaves1 finishing with the outer ones and raising them2 that is1 bringing the cabbage to its original shape as much as possible1 and then tie it all around with twine4 ,put in a saucepan large enough to hold the cabbage easily1 but not too large1 a little salt pork1 cut in small dice1 rind of salt pork and trimmings of butcher's meat that you may have1 but if none at all1 put a little lean salt pork or bacon1 and cut in dice also1 half a carrot in slices1 two onions in slices also1 and then the cabbage on the whole4 ,half cover it with broth2 water may be used instead of broth1 but it makes a very inferior dish1 while with broth it is unquestionably an excellent one for those who like cabbages4 ,simmer for two or three hours1 according to the size of the cabbage4 ,a piece of sausage may be placed on the cabbage also and cooked with it4 ,then dish the cabbage1 remove the twine tying it2 place the sausage around and also the salt pork if liked1 strain the sauce on the whole1 and serve warm4 ,if the water or broth boils away while it is cooking1 add more4 ,sour-krout4--,soak in cold water for some time1 changing the water three or four times2 then put it in a stewpan with a pound of bacon1 two ounces of sausages1 and two ounces of lard to every quart of sour-krout1 salt1 and pepper2 wet with broth1 or with water1 boil from five to six hours1 and serve with the bacon and sausages on it4 ,when cooked as above1 but with water instead of broth1 drain it well1 put the bacon and sausages away in a warm place2 then put the sour-krout in a stewpan with about one pint of white wine to a quart of sour-krout1 set it on the fire and boil gently till the wine is nearly all absorbed or boiled away4 ,serve as above with the bacon and sausages on it4 ,it is almost always prepared with wine in many parts of ,germany4 ,cardoons4--,the white part only is good to eat4 ,clean well and scrape the sides2 cut in pieces two inches and a half in length1 and throw them in boiling water with a little salt2 boil them till their sliminess comes off easily2 then take from the fire1 pour cold water in1 and by means of a towel remove the sliminess2 soak in cold water and drain them4 ,lay a few slices of bacon in a stewpan1 place the cardoons on them1 and again lay slices of bacon on2 season with two onions1 two sprigs of parsley1 one of thyme1 a bay-leaf1 and a clove1 salt1 pepper1 and the juice of half a lemon2 cover with water and set on a good fire2 boil till cooked2 take from the fire and drain the cardoons only1 throwing away the seasonings4 ,put the cardoons back in the stewpan1 in which you have left the bacon2 add two or three tablespoonfuls of broth1 and two of ,espagnole sauce2 set on a slow fire1 and simmer till the sauce is reduced to a proper thickness4 ,have at the same time in a pan on the fire a piece of ox-marrow1 and when melted mix it with the sauce at the moment you take the cardoons from the fire1 and serve hot either with or without the bacon4 ,carrots--how to clean and prepare them4--,trim off all the small roots1 wash them well1 scrape them gently1 taking care to scrape the skin only2 then wash well1 drain1 and cut them either in slices a quarter of an inch thick1 in fillets or strips1 or with a vegetable spoon1 according to fancy4 ,to boil4--,when prepared1 put them in a saucepan with a little salt1 more cold water than is necessary to cover them1 set on the fire1 boil gently till tender1 and drain4 ,it is impossible to tell how long it takes1 as it depends how young and tender they are4 ,in ,bechamel4--,clean1 cut1 and boil about a quart of carrots as directed and drain them4 ,mix well together in a saucepan1 on the table1 about two ounces of butter with a tablespoonful of flour1 add about one pint of milk1 set on the fire1 stir slowly till it comes to a boil1 when turn the carrots in1 stir for about one minute1 add also a little salt1 same of sugar1 two yolks of eggs2 stir and mix well1 give one boil1 and serve warm4 ,a la ,creme1 or with ,cream4--,proceed as for a ,bechamel in every particular except that you use cream instead of milk4 ,in ,poulette4--,proceed as in ,bechamel with the exception that you use broth instead of milk1 and add a little parsley1 chopped fine1 just before serving4 ,fines ,herbes4--,clean1 cut1 and boil as directed1 about a quart of carrots4 ,set a saucepan on the fire with two ounces of butter in it1 and when melted fry in it a piece of onion chopped fine4 ,when the onion is fried add a pint of broth or water2 boil about five minutes1 put the carrots in with a teaspoonful of chopped parsley1 give one boil1 take from the fire1 add a few drops of lemon-juice1 and serve as warm as possible1 with salt to taste4 ,au jus4--,proceed as for fines herbes1 except that you do not use onions1 and put half a pint of broth or gravy4 ,glazed4--,clean1 cut with a vegetable spoon1 and boil as directed1 about a quart of carrots1 and drain them4 ,put three ounces of butter in a frying-pan and set it on the fire4 ,as soon as the butter is melted turn the carrots in1 toss gently for five or six minutes1 then add a little over a gill of rich gravy1 sugar to taste1 toss again now and then till the gravy is half boiled away1 and use4 ,glazed carrots are seldom served alone1 but most generally used as garnishing around a piece of meat4 ,stewed4--,clean1 and cut carrots in slices1 and then blanch them for about five minutes1 and drain them4 ,set a stewpan on the fire with about two ounces of butter in it2 as soon as melted put the carrots in with salt1 pepper1 a pinch of sugar1 half a pint of broth2 boil gently till cooked1 take from the fire1 add and mix with the carrots a little chopped parsley1 and serve warm4 ,with ,sugar4--,clean and slice about a quart of carrots1 and blanch them for five minutes1 and then drain them4 ,put two ounces of butter in a stewpan1 and set it on a good fire1 and when melted lay the carrots in with salt1 pepper1 a pinch of grated nutmeg1 and about half a pint of broth2 sprinkle in it1 while stirring with a wooden spoon1 about a teaspoonful of flour1 and boil gently till cooked4 ,take from the fire1 mix a good tablespoonful of sugar with two yolks of eggs1 and those again with the rest1 and serve4 ,cauliflowers and ,broccoli--how to prepare and cook them in water4--,clean and wash them well1 throw into boiling water with a little salt and a little flour1 boil till cooked1 and drain them4 ,how to serve with ,cheese4--,put them on a crockery dish when prepared2 pour on a white sauce1 in which you have mixed a little grated cheese2 then dust the whole with fine bread-crumbs2 after which you take a soft brush or a feather1 which you dip in lukewarm butter1 and put a thin coat of it all over the cauliflowers2 then place the dish in a quick oven for ten minutes1 and serve as they are1 i4 e41 in the dish in which they have been cooked4 ,this is also called au gratin4 ,in ,bechamel4--,boil the cauliflowers till done to your taste1 drain immediately and place them on the dish1 the top upward4 ,while it is boiling make a ,bechamel sauce and turn it over the cauliflowers as soon as dished1 and serve as warm as possible4 ,cauliflower1 like asparagus1 has a better taste when rather underdone2 it is more crisp4 ,au ,beurre ,noir 7with ,brown ,butter74--,when boiled1 drained1 and dished1 turn a brown butter over them1 and serve warm4 ,with a ,cream-,sauce4--,clean1 prepare1 boil1 and drain the cauliflowers as directed above1 then dish them also with the top upward4 ,while they are boiling1 make a cream-sauce and turn it over the cauliflowers as soon as they are dished1 and serve warm4 ,as they must be served warm1 if the sauce is ready before the cauliflowers are cooked1 keep it in a bain-marie2 if the cauliflowers are cooked before the sauce is ready1 keep them in a warm place4 ,with a ,white ,sauce4--,proceed as with a cream-sauce in every particular1 turning a white instead of a cream-sauce over them2 serve warm4 ,fried4--,clean1 prepare1 and boil them for about five minutes1 that is1 till they are about half cooked2 then dip them in batter for frying vegetables1 and fry them in hot fat4 ,take them off with a skimmer1 turn them into a colander1 sprinkle salt all over1 and serve as hot as possible4 ,they are excellent fried1 but they must not be allowed to cool4 ,with a ,tomato-,sauce4--,commence by making a tomato-sauce1 as it requires longer than preparing the cauliflowers4 ,when the sauce is nearly made1 boil the cauliflower as directed1 dish it1 and then turn the sauce over it1 and serve warm4 ,au jus1 or stewed4--,prepare1 boil the cauliflowers till half done1 and drain them4 ,place them carefully in a stewpan1 the top upward1 and set on the fire with a little fat4 ,the fire must be rather slow4 ,stir gently and very carefully in order not to break them1 and1 about five minutes after they are on the fire1 add half a gill of broth for a middling-sized cauliflower1 salt1 and pepper2 simmer till done1 stirring now and then during the process2 dish them1 turn the sauce all over1 and serve warm4 ,in ,salad4--,when boiled and drained1 leave them in the colander till perfectly cold1 then put them in the salad-dish with salt1 pepper1 vinegar1 and oil1 move carefully in order not to break it1 and serve4 ,a salad of cauliflowers is not served as a salad of greens1 but as an entremet1 like other vegetables1 and as if prepared in any other way4 ,it is an excellent dish for breakfast4 ,celery--stewed4--,cut off the green part or top of about half a dozen heads of celery2 cleanse and trim them1 but leave them whole4 ,set a saucepan of cold water and a little salt on the fire1 and at the first boil drop the heads of celery in1 boil till tender and drain4 ,put the celery back in the pan with about half a pint of broth2 boil gently about five minutes1 when add two or three tablespoonfuls of good meat-gravy1 a teaspoonful of meuniere1 salt to taste1 give one boil1 and serve warm4 ,fried4--,cut the celery in pieces about two inches long1 wash1 drain1 and wipe dry4 ,dip them in batter for frying vegetables1 drop in hot fat1 and turn them into a colander when fried2 sprinkle salt over1 and serve hot4 ,soup or turnip-rooted celery1 after being cleaned and properly scraped1 is prepared like table celery as above1 either stewed or fried4 ,chiccory4--,chiccory1 or succory1 or endive1 is generally prepared as a salad1 if it be that with the broad leaves1 or the curled endive4 ,stewed4--,clean1 wash1 and drain it4 ,blanch it for about one minute1 and drain again4 ,then put it in a stewpan with a little broth1 and simmer till cooked2 then add a little gravy1 salt and pepper to taste1 and serve4 ,it makes a good entremet4 ,the wild chiccory is prepared in the same way4 ,with ,milk4--,remove the outer leaves and see that it is perfectly clean1 cut in two or four1 wash well in several waters1 and throw into boiling water with a little salt2 boil half an hour1 take it out1 throw into cold water1 leave two minutes1 and drain2 press on it the drainer so as to extract all the water from it1 after which chop it fine4 ,put about two ounces of butter in a stewpan2 when melted1 sprinkle in it a teaspoonful of flour1 also salt and pepper2 then put the endive in1 say three or four heads1 stir with a wooden spoon for ten minutes1 after which time you beat two eggs with milk1 and put them in the stewpan2 keep stirring fifteen minutes longer1 and serve4 ,corn--sweet4--,the simplest and best way is to boil it1 and then eat it with butter1 salt1 and pepper4 ,when boiled with any meat-soup1 or with pot-au-feu1 it is delicious to eat1 and gives a good taste to the broth2 it is also eaten with butter1 salt1 and pepper1 as above4 ,stewed4--,shell it and then drop it in boiling water and a little salt1 boil till nearly done2 then drain and put it back on the fire with a little broth2 boil gently for about ten minutes1 add a little gravy1 salt and pepper to taste1 and serve warm4 ,in ,succotash4--,this popular ,indian dish1 is very simply made by boiling corn and green ,lima beans together1 with salt and pepper4 ,the two can be prepared together as stewed corn1 but it makes a very inferior dish4 ,cucumbers4--,peel them1 split them in four1 take the seeds out1 cut in pieces about one inch long1 throw them into boiling water1 with a little salt2 boil till cooked1 drain1 and put them on a towel so as to dry them well2 then put butter in a frying-pan1 and set it on a good fire2 when hot1 put in it some chopped parsley1 salt1 and pepper1 two minutes after put the cucumbers in it1 fry a few minutes1 tossing them now and then1 and serve4 ,the same1 stewed4--,cook in boiling water1 and dry them as above2 then put them in a stewpan with a little butter kneaded with flour1 add salt1 pepper1 and a pinch of grated nutmeg2 moisten with broth1 simmer to reduce the sauce2 take from the fire1 mix the yolks of two eggs in the sauce2 add to it a few drops of vinegar1 and serve them4 ,stuffed4--,soak a piece of bread in cold water and then squeeze the water out of it1 the size to be according to how many cucumbers are to be stuffed1 or how large they are4 ,split large cucumbers in two1 lengthwise1 remove the seeds and some of the fleshy parts inside1 by means of a small iron spoon4 ,put a little butter in a saucepan on the fire1 and when melted fry in it a piece of chopped onion4 ,when the onion is fried1 put in the pan what you have removed from the inside of the cucumbers1 and which you have chopped a little1 stir for about five minutes1 and then add the soaked bread1 stir and mix well with the rest2 add also salt1 pepper1 a little grated nutmeg and a little gravy2 stir again for about one minute1 take from the fire2 fill the cucumbers1 that is1 each half with the mixture2 place them in a pan1 the mixture upward2 dust with bread-crumbs1 put a little butter on the top of each1 and bake4 ,before serving1 a little gravy may be sprinkled all over2 serve warm4 ,in hors-d'oeuvre4--,peel the cucumbers1 cut them in slices slantwise1 and salt them for two or three hours4 ,drain them1 and then season with oil1 vinegar1 pepper1 and parsley chopped fine4 ,pickled cucumbers are served whole with small onions1 also pickled1 as a hors-d'oeuvre4 ,dandelion4--,dandelion is a very healthy greens in the spring1 either cooked or raw4 ,clean and wash them well several times1 as it nearly always contains fine sand between the leaves2 leave them in cold water about two hours1 and drain them2 throw them into boiling water and salt2 boil twenty minutes if young1 and thirty minutes if full grown2 then put them in a colander1 press on them so as to extract all the water1 after which chop them fine2 put about two ounces of butter in a stewpan1 for two quarts1 and set it on a quick fire2 when melted1 sprinkle in it a teaspoonful of flour1 salt and pepper1 then put the dandelion in1 stir for ten minutes1 after which wet it with broth2 keep stirring for about fifteen minutes longer1 and serve4 ,egg-,plant--broiled4--,split the egg-plant in two lengthwise1 peel it and remove the seed4 ,put it in a crockery vessel and sprinkle salt on it2 leave it thus nearly an hour1 then take it off1 dip it in egg beaten with salt1 pepper1 and chopped parsley1 then boil it2 serve with a maitre d'hotel sauce4 ,fried4--,peel and cut in slices1 lay the slices in a vessel1 sprinkling salt over every layer1 and leave thus half an hour and drain4 ,dip the slices in batter for frying vegetables1 drop them in hot fat1 and turn them into a colander when fried2 sprinkle salt all over1 and serve4 ,saute4--,put the slices with salt half an hour in a vessel as directed in the above4 ,drain them1 and then fry them on both sides with a little butter in a frying-pan4 ,serve warm1 with salt and pepper to taste4 ,stuffed4--,proceed as for stuffed cucumbers in every particular4 ,hominy4--,hominy is prepared in different ways1 some make it in cakes1 others like mush4 ,the following is1 however1 the general way of preparing it3 boil it for about three hours with water or milk1 also butter1 salt1 and pepper2 then mix with it some well-beaten eggs1 fry or broil1 or even cook it in an oven1 and serve for breakfast4 ,leeks4--,clean1 wash1 and drain2 throw them in boiling water with a little salt1 boil fifteen minutes1 and drain2 press on them in the drainer1 so as to extract all the water1 then chop them fine4 ,put two ounces of butter in a stewpan2 when melted1 sprinkle in it a teaspoonful of flour1 salt1 and pepper1 then add the leeks4 ,stir with a wooden spoon for ten minutes2 after that beat two eggs with milk1 and put them in a stewpan2 keep stirring fifteen minutes longer1 and serve4 ,lentils4--,this excellent vegetable1 much superior to beans or peas1 is not generally known4 ,most of what we have here comes from ,germany2 a little comes from ,france and ,switzerland4 ,many persons think them much dearer than beans or peas1 not knowing that they swell three or four times their size when soaked in water before cooking them4 ,they are prepared like dry beans in every way4 ,a puree of lentils is excellent with almost every kind of meat1 and it also makes a good potage4 ,it has all the nutritive qualities of the bean4 ,lettuce4--,cos lettuce1 cabbage lettuce1 butter lettuce1 curled ,silesia1 white or green lettuce1 etc4 ,besides being served as salad1 all the above1 when properly dressed1 make an excellent entremet4 ,to prepare4--,take off the outer leaves1 that is1 all those that are too green or too hard1 then clean and wash well1 but without cutting it off1 or without detaching the leaves4 ,to stew lettuce1 select hard heads1 so that they can be cleansed without detaching the leaves4 ,when cleaned1 drop the heads in boiling water and a little salt1 boil about five or ten minutes1 according to how tender the lettuce is1 and drain dry4 ,stewed4--,when cleaned and prepared1 sprinkle on the top of each1 salt1 pepper1 and a little grated nutmeg2 then tie each head with a string4 ,place in a stewpan two or three slices of bacon1 put the heads of lettuce in1 season with two sprigs of parsley1 one of thyme1 a bay-leaf1 and a clove1 also salt and pepper2 cover with water1 and simmer about two hours in an oven2 then take them from the pan1 drain1 pressing on them to extract all the water1 and put them on a dish1 the top upward4 ,have butter in a stewpan1 and on a good fire2 when melted1 sprinkle in it a teaspoonful of flour1 stirring with a wooden spoon2 subdue the fire1 add a little milk1 and stir and simmer ten minutes longer2 take from the fire1 mix in the beaten yolks of two eggs1 pour it on the lettuce1 which you have kept warm1 and serve4 ,another way4--,when prepared1 chop it fine4 ,put in a stewpan1 for four heads of lettuce1 three ounces of butter1 and set it on the fire2 when melted1 put the lettuce in with a little chopped chervil1 stir now and then till cooked2 then sprinkle in it a pinch of flour1 wet with broth1 boil ten minutes longer1 keeping it stirred1 and serve4 7,for a salad of lettuce1 see ,salad47 ,stuffed4--,proceed as for a stuffed cabbage4 ,mushrooms4--,preserved mushrooms are used for sauces only4 ,the first thing to consider very attentively in mushrooms is1 not to eat any that you do not know to be good to eat4 ,there are so many kinds of good and bad ones1 that it is necessary to be very careful about even the edible ones1 or the ones known as such when young2 it is better and safer never to use them when old2 they are considered old when the comb underneath is black before picking1 while when young it is of a pink color4 ,how to clean and prepare them4--,cut off the lower part of the stem2 skin them with a steel knife1 commencing at the edge and finishing at the top2 cut in pieces1 put them in cold water1 to which you have added a few drops of vinegar2 leave them in it two hours1 moving them occasionally2 then wash well in two or three waters1 and drain4 ,when cleaned and prepared thus1 they are ready to be used in sauces1 or to cook4 ,broiled4--,if you have large mushrooms1 clean and prepare as above1 except that you do not cut them2 but when drained1 put them upside down on a greased gridiron1 and on a moderate fire2 place a little butter around the stem upon the comb1 and when done place them on a dish which you have warmed in advance1 and in the same position they had on the gridiron2 put again around the stem some butter kneaded with a little chopped parsley1 salt1 and pepper1 and serve4 ,they must be served warm4 ,as an ornament1 you may make1 with common white note-paper1 as many little square boxes as you have mushrooms to broil2 grease them with butter1 put the mushrooms in1 set them on the gridiron1 and on a moderate fire1 and serve them in the boxes when done4 ,the same1 stewed4--,when cleaned and prepared as directed1 and drained1 throw a quart of them in boiling water1 to which you have added a few drops of vinegar2 boil five minutes1 take them out1 put them in cold water to cool1 drain and dry them in a towel4 ,put two ounces of butter in a stewpan and set it on a good fire2 when melted1 sprinkle in it a pinch of flour1 add also a sprig of parsley1 two small onions1 a little piece of carrot1 a bay-leaf1 salt1 and pepper1 cover with broth1 and boil till the onions are cooked2 then take from the pan onions1 parsley1 and bay-leaf1 and put the mushrooms in instead2 boil slowly about twenty minutes1 take from the fire1 add to the sauce the yolks of two eggs well beaten with a few drops of vinegar1 and serve warm4 ,mushroom ,catsup4--,clean and wash them well1 stems and all2 cut them in two or four pieces2 then place the pieces in a crockery vessel1 sprinkling salt on every layer of mushrooms1 and leave thus twenty-four hours4 ,take them out and press them well1 so as to take all the juice out1 which you bottle at once1 and cork4 ,put the mushrooms back in the vessel1 and twenty-four hours after press them again2 and again put the juice in bottles1 and the mushrooms in the vessel1 and repeat this process again after another twenty-four hours4 ,then mix well together the juice of the three pressings2 add to it pepper1 allspice1 one clove 7or more1 according to the quantity7 broken in pieces2 boil the whole1 skim off the scum as long as you see any on the surface1 and strain4 ,bottle when cool2 put in each bottle two cloves and a pepper-corn1 cork air-tight1 put in a cool and dry place1 and it will keep for years4 ,dried4--,dried mushrooms are imported from ,italy1 they come cheaper than the preserved ones in cans1 and are as good for brown sauces4 ,soak them in water over night2 drain them1 and they are ready for use4 ,onions a la ,creme4--7,with ,cream47--,only small white onions are prepared a la creme4 ,have water and a little salt on the fire1 and drop two dozen small white onions into it at the first boil4 ,when cooked1 drain1 and wipe them dry carefully1 in order not to bruise them4 ,set a saucepan on the fire with about two ounces of butter in it1 and when melted put the onions in1 stirring gently for two or three minutes1 then turn about a gill of cream in1 little by little1 stirring the while1 and as soon as the whole is in take from the fire1 salt to taste1 and serve hot4 ,glazed4--,peel a dozen of middling-sized onions and put them in a saucepan with four ounces of butter1 and set them on a slow fire2 stir occasionally till they are about three-quarters done1 when add about two ounces of powdered sugar1 stir now and then and finish the cooking4 ,when done and well browned all around1 add one or two tablespoonfuls of good meat-gravy1 keep a few minutes on a rather brisk fire in order to reduce the sauce1 but keep stirring and use4 ,onions prepared that way are excellent1 and generally used to decorate meat4 ,stewed4--,clean a quart of small onions1 throw them in boiling water1 add two sprigs of parsley1 one of thyme1 a clove1 a bay-leaf1 a little piece of nutmeg1 a clove of garlic1 salt1 and pepper2 boil twenty minutes1 drain the onions only1 and throw away the seasonings4 ,put two ounces of butter in a stewpan on a good fire1 and when melted sprinkle in it a teaspoonful of flour2 then add the onions1 cover with half broth and half white wine1 boil gently till well cooked and the sauce reduced1 serve warm4 ,it is a very wholesome dish4 ,parsnips4--,sautees4--,scrape1 wash1 drain1 and put about two quarts of parsnips in a saucepan with cold water and a little salt1 set on the fire and boil till done1 then drain4 ,cut the parsnips in slices1 put two ounces of butter in a frying-pan1 and when melted put the sliced turnips in1 toss gently till they are of a fine golden color1 then add salt and pepper to taste1 turn over a dish1 sprinkle chopped parsley all over1 and serve warm4 ,stewed4--,scrape1 clean1 wash1 boil1 and drain as above directed1 about two quarts of parsnips4 ,put them immediately into a stewpan with salt1 pepper1 and broth enough to about half cover them1 boil gently for fifteen minutes1 and serve the whole as it is4 ,they may also be prepared in poulette1 the same as turnips4 ,peas with ,bacon4--,put in a stewpan on the fire four ounces of bacon cut in dice 7for one quart of peas71 and toss and fry it for about five minutes1 then add the peas after having blanched them from five to ten minutes1 according to how tender they are2 stir for two minutes and add half a pint of broth or water1 also a bunch of seasonings composed of two or three sprigs of parsley1 half a one of thyme1 and a piece of bay-leaf2 stir again and mix1 and then add also two or three small onions1 salt1 and pepper2 boil half an hour1 remove the seasonings1 and serve peas and salt pork4 ,a small sausage may be added for those who like the taste of it4 ,plain boiled4--,put a saucepan on the fire with water and salt in it1 and at the first boil drop two quarts of peas in it2 boil gently till done1 and then drain4 ,as soon as they are in the colander1 just toss them a little1 turn them over a dish1 and put four ounces of butter on the top1 salt1 and pepper1 then place the dish in the oven with the door open1 that is1 just to keep them warm and allow the butter to melt1 stir for one or two minutes1 and serve warm4 ,with ,lettuce4--,blanch a quart of peas for about five minutes1 and drain them4 ,blanch a head of lettuce for one minute4 ,put peas and lettuce in a saucepan with one ounce of butter1 stir gently on the fire for about one minute1 and then add a little broth or water1 two or three sprigs of parsley1 salt1 and pepper2 boil slowly till done1 and serve warm4 ,the parsley may be served1 or removed just before serving1 according to taste4 ,the lettuce is always served with the peas4 ,au jus4--,boil the peas as directed for plain boiled1 then put them back on the fire with a little butter1 stir for one minute1 add about three tablespoonfuls of gravy to a quart of peas1 salt and pepper1 give one boil1 and serve4 ,with ,ham4--,blanch two quarts of peas and drain them4 ,put them in a saucepan with half a pound of ham1 cut in dice1 half cover them with water1 and boil gently till done4 ,if the water boils away1 add a little more2 serve warm4 ,canned peas are prepared in the same way as above4 ,a l',anglaise4--,if the peas are fresh1 blanch them2 if they are preserved1 drain them only4 ,put the peas in a saucepan with about one ounce of butter for a pint1 set on the fire1 stir gently till thoroughly warm1 add chopped parsley and a yolk of egg1 and serve4 ,au ,sucre 7with ,sugar74--,set the peas on the fire1 the same as above1 add about one ounce of sugar1 stir also till warm2 take from the fire1 stir a yolk of egg in1 and serve4 ,dry ,peas and ,split ,peas4--,dry and split peas are prepared and served in the same and every way like dry beans1 with the exception that they require to be soaked only for a few hours before cooking them4 ,potatoes4--,to select4--,as a general rule1 the smaller the eye the better the potatoes4 ,by cutting off a piece from the larger end you ascertain if they are sound2 they must be white1 reddish1 bluish1 etc41 according to the species4 ,if spotted1 they are not sound1 and therefore very inferior4 ,there are several kinds1 and all of them are good when sound or coming from a proper soil4 ,use the kind you prefer1 or those that are better fit for the way they are intended to be served4 ,to mash or to make a puree1 etc41 every kind is good4 ,to serve whole or in dice1 or in pieces like carpels of oranges1 those called ,mercers and the like1 are preferable1 because they do not bruise so easily4 ,to boil4--,being naturally watery1 potatoes should never be cooked by boiling except when wanted very white1 as for croquettes4 ,when boiled whole1 put them of an even size as much as possible1 in order to cook them evenly4 ,they are better1 more mealy1 when steamed or baked1 but those who have no steamer must1 of course1 boil them4 ,cover them with cold water1 set on the fire and boil till done1 then pour off all the water1 put the pan back on a slow fire for five minutes and well covered2 then use the potatoes4 ,to steam4--,place them above a kettle of boiling water1 in a kind of drainer made for that purpose1 and adapted to the kettle4 ,the drainer must be covered tight4 ,they cook as fast as by boiling1 the degree of heat being the same4 ,when steamed the skin is very easily removed4 ,to prepare4--,if they are to be boiled1 or steamed1 or baked1 it is only necessary to wash them4 ,if wanted peeled1 as for frying1 etc41 then commence by cutting off the germs or eyes2 if young and tender1 take the skin off with a scrubbing-brush and drop immediately in cold water to keep them white2 if old1 scrape the skin off with a knife1 for the part immediately under the skin contains more nutriment than the middle1 and drop in cold water also4 ,if wanted cut1 either in dice1 or like carpels of oranges1 or any other way1 cut them above a bowl of cold water1 so that they drop into it1 for if kept exposed to the air they turn reddish and lose their nutritive qualities4 ,a l',allemande4--,steam1 peel1 and slice the potatoes4 ,cut some bread in thin slices1 and fry bread and potatoes with a little butter and turn the whole in a bowl1 dust well with sugar1 pour a little milk all over and bake for about fifteen minutes2 serve warm4 ,a l',anglaise4--,steam or boil about a quart of potatoes and then peel and slice them4 ,put two ounces of butter in a frying-pan on the fire1 and put the potatoes in when melted1 toss them for about ten minutes1 add salt1 pepper1 a little grated nutmeg1 and serve hot4 ,a la barigoule4--,peel some potatoes and cook them whole in broth2 when done take them off carefully1 so as not to break or bruise them1 and drain4 ,have some oil in a frying-pan and on a quick fire1 and when hot lay the potatoes in2 move gently to fry them all around1 and then dish them1 sprinkling salt1 pepper1 and vinegar1 all over2 serve warm4 ,bechamel4--,steam or boil and peel some potatoes1 then slice them and place on a dish2 have a ,bechamel sauce ready1 turn it over the potatoes1 and serve warm4 ,broiled4--,steam1 peel and slice the potatoes4 ,lay the slices on a gridiron1 and place it over a rather slow fire2 have melted butter1 and spread some over the slices of potatoes with a brush2 as soon as the under part is broiled1 turn each slice over and spread butter over the other side4 ,when done1 dish1 salt1 and serve them hot4 ,a little butter may be added when dished1 according to taste4 ,a la ,parisienne4--,chop an onion fine and partly fry it with butter1 then put in it some potatoes cut in dice1 add a little water or broth1 salt1 and pepper2 boil gently till done1 take from the fire1 add chopped parsley1 and serve4 ,fried4--,to be fried1 the potatoes are cut either with a vegetable spoon1 in fillets1 in slices1 with a scalloped knife1 or with an ordinary one1 or cut in pieces like carpels of oranges1 or even in dice4 ,when cut1 drain and wipe them dry4 ,this must be done quickly1 so as not to allow the potatoes to turn reddish4 ,have a coarse towel ready1 then turn the potatoes into a colander1 and immediately turn them in the towel1 shake them a little1 and quickly drop them in hot fat4 7,see ,frying47 ,when done1 turn them into a colander1 sprinkle salt on them1 and serve hot4 ,bear in mind that fried potatoes must be eaten as hot as possible4 ,fry only one size at a time1 as it takes three times as long to fry them when cut in pieces as when sliced or cut in fillets4 ,to fry them light1 or swelled4--,when fried1 turn into the colander1 and have the fat over a brisk fire2 leave the potatoes in the colander only about half a minute1 then put them back in the very hot fat1 stir for about one minute and put them again in the colander1 salt them1 and serve hot4 ,if the fat is very hot1 when dropped into it for the second time they will certainly swell2 there is no other way known to do it4 ,it is as easily done as it is simple4 ,potatoes cut in fillets and fried are sometimes called a la ,parisienne2 when cut in slices or with a vegetable spoon1 they are called a la francaise4 ,potatoes cut with a vegetable spoon and fried1 make a good as well as a sightly decoration for a dish of meat or of fish4 ,they may be fried in oil also1 but it is more expensive than in fat4 ,they may be fried in butter also1 but it is still more expensive than oil1 and is not better than fat2 no matter what kind of fat is used1 be it lard1 beef suet1 or skimmings of sauces and gravy1 it cannot be tasted4 ,hollandaise4--,steam or boil the potatoes1 and then peel and mash them4 ,season them with a teaspoonful of chopped parsley1 salt1 and pepper1 add also two tablespoonfuls of gravy to a quart of potatoes1 then make small balls about the size of a walnut1 round or of an olive-shape1 dip them in beaten egg1 roll in bread-crumbs1 and fry in hot fat4 ,serve hot4 ,another4--,proceed as for the above one in every particular1 except that you use milk or cream instead of broth1 and sugar instead of salt and pepper4 ,lyonnaise4--,potatoes ,lyonnaise are prepared according to taste1 that is1 as much onion as liked is used1 either in slices or chopped4 ,if you have not any cold potatoes1 steam or boil some1 let them cool1 and peel and slice them4 ,for about a quart of potatoes1 put two ounces of butter in a frying-pan on the fire1 and when melted put as much onion as you please1 either sliced or chopped1 into the pan1 and fry it till about half done1 when add the potatoes and again two ounces of butter2 salt1 pepper1 and stir and toss gently till the potatoes are all fried of a fine1 light-brown color4 ,it may require more butter1 as no vegetable absorbs more than potatoes4 ,it makes an excellent dish for those who do not object to the taste of the onion 7the onion can be tasted1 not being boiled or kept long enough on the fire to evaporate74 ,serve warm4 ,oil may be used instead of butter4 ,maitre d',hotel4--,steam or boil about a quart of potatoes1 and then peel and cut them in slices4 ,put one ounce and a half of butter in a saucepan on the fire1 and when melted add a small tablespoonful of flour2 stir1 and when turning yellow add also about a quart of milk1 salt to taste1 give one boil and take from the fire4 ,then add the potatoes1 put back on a slow fire1 stir for ten minutes1 mix in the whole a teaspoonful of parsley chopped fine1 also a yolk or two of eggs1 and serve warm4 ,another ,maitre d',hotel4--,take two quarts of potatoes1 prepare and cook them by steam1 peel carefully1 and cut them in thick slices2 place them on a dish and keep warm4 ,put four ounces of butter in a stewpan and set it on a slow fire2 add1 when melted1 a teaspoonful of chopped parsley1 the juice of half a lemon1 salt1 pepper1 and a pinch of allspice1 stir ten minutes2 afterward1 put for five minutes on a quick fire1 keep stirring1 then pour on the potatoes1 and serve4 ,mashed4--,peel and quarter about three pints of potatoes as directed2 put them in a saucepan with more water than is necessary to cover them1 and a little salt2 set on the fire and boil gently till done1 drain1 put them back in the saucepan1 mash them well and mix them with two ounces of butter1 two yolks of eggs1 salt1 pepper1 and milk enough to make them of a proper thickness4 ,set on the fire for two or three minutes1 stirring the while1 and serve warm4 ,when on the dish1 smooth them with the back of a knife or scallop them1 according to fancy4 ,mashed and baked4--,put two ounces of butter in a stewpan and set it on the fire2 when hot1 add a teaspoonful of parsley chopped fine1 and a little salt2 five minutes after1 put in it a quart of potatoes1 prepared1 cooked1 peeled1 and mashed1 as directed2 then pour on the whole1 little by little1 stirring continually with a wooden spoon1 a pint of good milk2 and when the whole is well mixed1 and becoming rather thick1 take from the fire1 place on the dish1 then set in a brisk oven for five minutes1 and serve4 ,polanaise4--,wash well about two quarts of potatoes1 put them in a saucepan and cover with cold water1 season with salt1 half a dozen whole peppers1 a bay-leaf1 a sprig of thyme1 and two or three onions in slices2 boil gently till done1 and drain4 ,peel the potatoes1 cut them in two1 dish and turn a caper sauce over them4 ,serve warm4 ,provencale4--,peel and quarter about three pints of potatoes as directed4 ,put in a saucepan about a gill of oil with the potatoes1 salt1 pepper1 a pinch of nutmeg1 six sprigs of parsley1 two cloves of garlic1 and half the rind of a lemon2 the three latter spices well chopped2 set on a good fire1 stir now and then till cooked1 dish the whole1 sprinkle the juice of one or two lemons on1 and serve warm4 ,another way4--,put in a stewpan three tablespoonfuls of sweet-oil1 a teaspoonful of chopped parsley1 two cloves of garlic chopped very fine1 a pinch of grated nutmeg1 the juice of half a lemon1 salt1 and pepper2 set on a good fire1 and when hot put in it a quart of potatoes prepared and cooked by steam1 and cut in thick slices2 subdue the fire1 simmer about ten minutes1 and serve4 ,sautees4--,take a quart of young and tender potatoes1 peel them with a brush1 and cut in slices4 ,put two ounces of butter in a frying-pan on a quick fire2 when hot1 put the potatoes in1 and fry them till of a golden color2 place them on a dish without any butter1 sprinkle chopped parsley and salt on1 and serve4 ,they may also be served without parsley1 according to taste4 ,soufflees4--,steam a quart of potatoes1 then peel and mash them in a saucepan and mix an ounce of butter with them2 set on the fire1 pour into it1 little by little1 stirring the while1 about half a pint of milk1 stir a little longer after the milk is in and until they are turning rather thick2 dish the potatoes1 smooth or scallop them with the back of a knife1 and put them in a quick oven till of a proper color1 and serve4 ,another way4--,steam three pints of potatoes and peel and mash them in a saucepan1 then mix with them four ounces of butter1 salt to taste1 half a pint of milk1 and eight yolks of eggs2 set on the fire for two minutes1 stirring the while1 and take off4 ,beat six whites of eggs to a stiff froth1 and mix them gently with the rest4 ,place the mixture on a dish1 smooth with the back of a knife or scallop them1 according to fancy1 and put in a quick oven4 ,as soon as the top gets a little dry1 which will be in two or three minutes after being in the oven1 take them off and quickly spread some melted butter all over1 by means of a brush1 and put back in the oven for two or three minutes longer1 when take off again1 spread butter over the same as the first time1 etc4 ,repeat the same process two or three times1 and serve warm4 ,stuffed4--,steam two or three potatoes and peel and mash them in a bowl1 then chop fine a small green onion or two shallots with two ounces of fat salt pork and six or eight sprigs of parsley2 mix the whole with the potatoes2 add also and mix with the rest about two ounces of butter1 and salt and pepper to taste4 ,if the potatoes are not warm enough to melt the butter while mixing1 it should be melted first4 ,clean and wash well six potatoes of an even size and split them in two lengthwise2 then with a small iron spoon remove the middle part of each half1 so as to leave only a thickness of about one-eighth of an inch4 ,you have then a kind of shell1 which you fill with the prepared mixture above1 filling more than full1 so that the top is convex1 and which you smooth with the back of a knife4 ,when the twelve halves are thus prepared1 butter the bottom of a bakepan1 lay the potatoes in with the mixture upward1 and put in a warm oven4 ,take from the oven when about half done1 and spread some melted butter all over by means of a brush2 put back in the oven1 finish the baking1 and serve warm4 ,in ,cakes4--,prepare and cook by steam a quart and a half of potatoes1 peel and mash them2 mix with them the yolks of five eggs1 half a lemon-rind grated1 and four ounces of fine white sugar4 ,put four ounces of butter in a stewpan and set it on the fire2 when melted1 put the mixture in1 stirring with a wooden spoon continually2 as soon as it is in the stewpan1 add the whites of the five eggs1 well beaten2 leave on the fire only the time necessary to mix the whole well together1 and take off2 when nearly cold1 add1 if handy1 and while stirring1 a few drops of orange-flower water2 it gives a very good flavor2 then put the whole in a tin mould greased a little with butter2 place in a quick oven for about thirty-five minutes1 and serve4 ,in ,croquettes4--,peel1 quarter1 and boil about a quart of potatoes as directed4 ,mash them in a saucepan and mix them with four yolks of eggs1 two ounces of butter1 salt1 and about half a gill of milk2 set on the fire1 stir for about two minutes1 take off1 spread on a dish and leave thus for two or three hours1 and even over night when for breakfast4 ,when left over night1 they may be rather too dry to work them2 then mix with a few drops of milk4 ,no matter how long they have been left on the dish1 it is necessary to mix them1 that is1 to mix the top1 which is the driest part1 with the rest4 ,dust the paste-board slightly with bread-crumbs1 put the potatoes on it1 in parts of about a tablespoonful each2 then1 with the hands and a knife1 shape them according to fancy1 either round1 flat1 or oval1 etc4 ,when shaped round they look like a piece of sausage about two inches and a half long4 ,if wished flat1 when shaped round1 just flatten them a little with the blade of a knife4 ,then dip each part in beaten egg1 roll in bread-crumbs1 and fry in hot fat4 7,see ,frying47 ,take them off the fat when done1 turn them into a colander1 and immediately dish1 and serve them as warm as possible4 ,potato croquettes are sometimes called potato-balls4 ,when the croquettes are shaped flat1 they are also called a la duchesse4 ,another ,duchesse4--,when the potatoes are ready to be spread on the dish to cool1 put them in the pastry-bag and squeeze them out of it like lady's fingers1 bake1 and serve warm4 ,it makes a sightly dish4 ,in ,matelote4--,prepare and cook a quart and a half of potatoes1 and peel and cut them in thick slices4 ,put in a stewpan a piece of butter the size of an egg1 and set it on the fire2 when melted1 sprinkle in it a teaspoonful of flour1 also the same of chopped parsley1 salt1 and pepper1 then the potatoes1 wet with half a pint of claret wine1 same of broth2 boil gently till the sauce is reduced1 and serve4 ,with ,butter1 or ,english ,fashion4--,put water on the fire with considerable salt in it2 at the first boil1 drop a quart of washed potatoes in and boil till done1 when take off1 peel1 and put them whole in a saucepan1 with butter1 salt1 pepper1 and a little nutmeg2 set on a rather slow fire1 stirring gently now and then till they have absorbed all the butter4 ,serve warm4 ,they absorb a great deal of butter4 ,with ,bacon or ,salt ,pork4--,peel and quarter about a quart of potatoes4 ,set a saucepan on the fire with about four ounces of fat salt pork cut in dice in it4 ,when fried put the potatoes in4 ,season with a bunch of seasonings composed of two sprigs of parsley1 one of thyme1 and a bay-leaf2 salt and pepper to taste1 and about half a pint of broth or water4 ,boil gently till cooked1 remove the bunch of seasonings2 skim off the fat if any1 and serve warm4 ,it is served at breakfast1 as well as entremets for dinner4 ,with ,cream or ,milk4--,peel and mash a quart of potatoes1 when prepared and cooked4 ,put two ounces of butter in a stewpan and set it on a good fire2 when melted1 sprinkle in it a teaspoonful of flour1 same of chopped parsley1 a pinch of grated nutmeg1 and salt2 stir with a wooden spoon five minutes2 then add the potatoes1 and half a pint of milk or cream2 keep stirring ten minutes longer1 take from the fire1 sprinkle in them half a tablespoonful of sugar1 and serve as warm as possible4 ,with ,white ,sauce4--,clean1 wash1 and throw a quart of potatoes in boiling water1 with a sprig of thyme1 two onions1 a bay-leaf1 two sprigs of sweet basil1 two cloves1 salt1 and pepper2 when cooked1 take the potatoes out carefully1 peel and cut them in two1 place them on a warm dish1 pour on them a white sauce1 and serve warm4 ,sweet ,potatoes4--,they are prepared in the same and every way like the others above4 ,pumpkins and ,squashes4--,peel1 take out the seed1 cut in pieces1 and throw them in boiling water with a little salt2 drain when cooked and mash through a colander1 put butter in a stewpan on the fire1 when melted1 add chopped parsley1 salt1 pepper1 and the pumpkin or squash1 and simmer ten minutes2 after which pour in it half a pint of milk1 little by little1 stirring the while2 leave ten minutes longer on the fire1 and take off2 mix well in it two or three yolks of eggs1 and serve warm4 ,the quantity of milk1 butter1 eggs1 etc41 to be according to the quantity of squash4 ,purslain4--,clean1 wash well1 and drop it in boiling water with a little salt1 boil till cooked1 take off and drain4 ,put butter in a stewpan on the fire1 and when melted lay the purslain in1 stir a little and sprinkle on it1 little by little1 a pinch of flour2 season with salt1 pepper1 and chopped parsley1 stir and simmer about ten minutes1 take from the fire1 mix in it one or two beaten eggs1 and serve4 ,purslain is much more used in ,europe than here2 there it is cultivated as other vegetables1 but it does not grow as well as here4 ,rhubarb4--,scrape and cut it in pieces about one inch long1 and then blanch it for two minutes4 ,put it in a saucepan with two or three tablespoonfuls of cold water and set it on a rather sharp fire1 toss or stir now and then till done1 when sweeten to taste1 dish1 let cool1 and serve4 ,rhubarb is very wholesome1 and ought to be partaken of at least every other day4 ,when prepared as above1 it may be used to make pies4 ,illustration ,radishes4--,the cuts below are turnip-rooted red radishes1 cut with a small knife1 put in cold water for about an hour1 and served with butter1 as a hors-d'oeuvre4 ,remove the outer leaves1 leaving only four or five of the small centre ones1 cut off the root close to the radish1 and wash clean in cold water4 ,take the radish with the left hand holding it by the centre leaves1 cut the skin from the top downward to near the leaves1 in several parts1 but without detaching it1 and as seen in the cuts above2 do the same carefully with the body of the radish1 and it will look more like a rose than like a radish4 ,after having prepared two or three1 it will be comparatively easy4 ,the centre leaves must be eaten1 as well as the body of the radish2 they contain a substance that helps the digestion of the radish itself4 ,salsify1 or ,oyster-,plant4--,scrape them1 and throw one by one as they are scraped into cold water1 with a few drops of vinegar2 when they are all scraped1 move them a little1 take out of the water1 and throw them in boiling water with a little salt1 boil till tender1 and drain2 place them warm on a warm dish1 and serve with brown butter1 a maitre d'hotel1 or white sauce4 ,fried4--,when boiled as above1 drain them4 ,then dip each in batter for frying vegetables1 drop them in hot fat1 and take them off with a skimmer when done1 turn into a colander1 salt them1 and serve hot4 ,in ,bechamel4--,while the salsify is boiling as directed above1 make a ,bechamel sauce2 drain the salsify when done1 and turn it into the ,bechamel sauce as soon as the latter is finished2 keep on the fire for about two minutes1 stirring the while1 and serve warm4 ,they are prepared and served in the same way with the following sauces3 cream1 poulette1 and white4 ,skirret4--,prepare1 cook1 and serve in every way like parsnips4 ,sorrel4--,sorrel is found in a wild state nearly everywhere2 that is1 where green plants vegetate4 ,it is an excellent vegetable1 good to eat all the year round1 but especially in the spring and summer4 ,it is very healthful1 containing the pure oxalic acid as it is formed by ,nature4 ,sorrel is the greatest neutralizer of acrid substances4 ,a few leaves chewed1 take away from the teeth that disagreeable feeling left after having eaten a tart apple or other tart1 unripe fruit4 ,cultivated in a rich soil1 the leaves grow nearly as large as those of the rhubarb4 ,it is cut to the ground several times during the spring and summer4 ,to boil4--,take a peck of sorrel1 separate the stalk from the eatable part1 by taking hold of it with one hand and tearing off the rest with the other1 so that only the stalk and fibres attached to it will remain after the tearing1 and which you throw away4 ,wash it well1 drain and set it on the fire in a saucepan with two tablespoonfuls of water2 stir occasionally1 and when nearly done1 take off1 mash through a colander1 and it is ready for use4 ,au jus4--,put a piece of butter the size of an egg in a saucepan1 set it on the fire1 and when melted1 put the sorrel in after being boiled and mashed as above1 stir half a minute1 add a tablespoonful of flour2 stir another half minute1 add also half a gill of gravy1 same of broth1 salt1 stir two minutes1 and serve4 ,hard-boiled eggs1 split in four pieces1 lengthwise1 may be placed around the dish1 if the sorrel is served as an entremets4 ,to preserve for ,winter ,use4--,when boiled and mashed as above1 put it in stone or glass jars2 when cold1 turn melted butter or lard over it2 cover as tightly as possible with paper1 and when perfectly cold1 put away in a dark1 dry1 and rather cool place1 and it will keep very well during the whole winter4 ,the best time to preserve it is at the beginning of ,november1 just before the cold weather sets in4 ,puree of4--,when prepared as for au jus1 but without gravy1 it is a puree4 ,spinach--to boil4--,when cleaned and washed1 throw it in boiling water at the first boiling1 with a pinch of salt1 and boil till done4 ,it will take from one to ten minutes to boil1 according to how tender it is4 ,turn into a colander2 press on it to force the water out1 put on the paste-board and chop it fine4 ,au jus4--,when chopped1 set the spinach on the fire in a saucepan with a little broth1 two or three tablespoonfuls for a small measure2 stir1 add as much gravy1 an ounce of butter1 a teaspoonful of flour1 salt1 stir two minutes1 and serve4 ,au jus in ,winter4--,when prepared as above1 put it away in a bowl in a cool place1 for one day2 then set it back on the fire in a pan1 add a little butter and a little broth1 stir and just warm it1 when put away again2 repeat this for four or five days in succession1 and you certainly will have an excellent dish4 ,some hard-boiled eggs cut in four pieces1 lengthwise1 may be placed around the spinach when dished1 also some croutons4 ,spinach is generally served on a flat dish1 and scalloped all around with a knife4 ,with ,sugar4--,proceed as for spinach au jus in every particular1 except that you put very little salt1 and one or two teaspoonfuls of sugar1 according to taste4 ,lady-fingers or pieces of sponge-cake may be placed all around the dish4 ,a la ,creme4--,boil and chop the spinach as directed4 ,set it on the fire in a saucepan1 stir till perfectly dry1 but not burnt2 add two ounces of butter1 and stir again for five or six minutes2 then add about two tablespoonfuls of cream to a small measure of spinach2 stir again five minutes1 take from the fire2 add again one ounce of butter1 stir two minutes1 and serve with hard-boiled eggs or croutons1 or both4 ,milk may be used instead of cream when the latter cannot be had1 but it is inferior in taste4 ,with ,anchovy4--,proceed as for the above1 using a tablespoonful of essence of anchovy instead of cream4 ,spinach au ,beurre1 or a l'anglaise4--,boil and chop the spinach as directed4 ,put it in a saucepan with butter2 set on the fire1 stir till the butter is melted and mixed with the spinach1 salt to taste1 and serve4 ,sprouts4--,boil1 prepare1 and serve sprouts the same as spinach4 ,tomatoes are1 like sorrel and rhubarb1 very healthful4 ,to blanch4--,after they are washed1 throw boiling water over them1 and then take off and remove the skin4 ,stewed1 to serve with ,meat or ,fish4--,when blanched as above1 put the tomatoes in a stewpan with butter1 salt1 and pepper1 set on the fire and simmer for about forty-five minutes2 serve warm all around the fish or piece of meat4 ,tomatoes may be eaten raw1 with or without salt2 in no matter what way they are partaken of1 they are not yet known to have indisposed anybody4 ,although great quantities are consumed in this and other countries1 still many more ought to be used2 they are so easily preserved1 that every family ought to have a large provision of them for the winter and spring consumption4 ,stuffed4--,soak in cold water one-fourth of a ten-cent loaf of bread1 etc42 when perfectly soaked1 squeeze it with the hands4 ,take six tomatoes1 as much of an even size as possible1 cut the top off2 that is1 the side opposite the stem1 and with a small spoon take out the inside and put it in a bowl1 and then turn into a colander to let the liquid part run off4 ,put about an ounce of butter in a saucepan1 and when melted add a small onion chopped2 stir1 and when nearly fried add also the part of the tomatoes in the colander also chopped2 stir half a minute2 put in the soaked bread1 stir and mix2 then salt1 pepper1 and grated nutmeg2 give one boil more1 and take from the fire4 ,fill the tomatoes with this mixture1 dust with bread-crumbs1 put a piece of butter the size of a hazel-nut on each1 and bake4 ,just before serving1 wet with a little tomato-sauce1 broth1 or gravy4 ,turnips--to boil4--,clean1 scrape1 and wash well1 then put them in a saucepan1 either whole or in slices1 or cut with a fruit-corer or with a vegetable spoon1 add cold water enough to boil them in1 a little salt1 set on the fire and boil gently till tender2 then take off1 drain1 drop in cold water1 drain again1 and use4 ,in ,bechamel4--,while the turnips are boiling as described above1 make a ,bechamel sauce and turn the turnips in as soon as made2 boil gently about two minutes1 stirring the while1 and serve warm4 ,do exactly the same with a cream or white sauce4 ,au jus4--,boil and drain them as directed above1 then put them in a saucepan with a little gravy1 set on the fire1 stir now and then for about ten minutes1 add a teaspoonful of meuniere1 stir again for two or three minutes1 and serve warm4 ,with ,sugar4--,cut with a fruit-corer or with a vegetable spoon about a pint of turnips1 and boil them till under done1 then drain4 ,put the turnips in a saucepan with two or three tablespoonfuls of broth1 set on a good fire1 toss occasionally for about ten minutes1 then add two or three tablespoonfuls of sugar1 toss again now and then for ten minutes longer1 and serve4 ,it may take a little longer or less time than described above1 according to the state of the turnips2 if young and very tender1 keep on the fire five instead of ten minutes1 and if old1 it may take fifteen minutes4 ,glazed4--,cut the turnips with a vegetable spoon1 boil them for five minutes1 and drain them4 ,put half a gill of broth in a saucepan with about one pint of turnips and set on a good fire2 toss and stir now and then till done1 and till the broth is all boiled away4 ,if it boils away before the turnips are cooked1 add more and finish the cooking4 ,when done1 sprinkle about three ounces of sugar on them1 stir for about one minute1 dish the turnips1 dredge powdered sugar all over1 put in the oven two minutes1 and serve4 ,water-cress4--,this contains much sulphur1 and is the greatest anti-scorbutic known4 ,besides being eaten with salt or in salad1 it may also be stewed in the following way3 ,take only the top and the leaves around the stalk2 clean and wash it well2 throw it in boiling water with a little salt1 and when cooked drain it well1 so as to extract all the water from it4 ,put a piece of butter the size of an egg in a stewpan2 when melted1 put the cress in1 sprinkle on it a tablespoonful of flour 7for three quarts72 stir continually with a spoon1 boil ten minutes1 then add salt1 pepper1 a little grated nutmeg1 and half a pint of broth2 boil ten minutes longer1 and serve either alone1 or with hard-boiled eggs on it2 cut the eggs in two or four pieces4 ,salads4--,salads are seasoned with oil1 vinegar1 salt1 and pepper1 and sometimes with mustard also4 ,the best oil is that made of olives1 but much is sold for olive-oil which contains more lard than oil4 ,it is impossible to tell which is pure by the color4 ,pure olive-oil is of a pale-yellow-greenish color4 ,it is very easy to tell the pure oil by tasting1 but of course it is necessary to know the real taste of good oil4 ,the best vinegar is wine-vinegar1 with tarragon in it 7vinaigre a l'estragon71 but it is expensive4 ,next to it is cider-vinegar4 ,beer makes good vinegar1 but inferior to that made with cider4 ,pyrolignic vinegar is very unhealthy4 ,no one can be too careful in selecting vinegar4 ,the superiority of the ,french mustard comes from the compounds used1 and not from the way it is made1 as thought by many4 ,in the ,french mustard1 besides vinaigre a l'estragon1 there is white wine1 and more sweet-oil than in any other kind4 ,a good deal of mustard is made here1 and often sold as ,french1 after being carefully labelled4 ,salad is made with every species of lettuce2 chicory1 cultivated and wild2 cabbages1 red and white2 cauliflowers1 celery1 dandelion1 corn-salad1 purslain1 water-cress1 etc4 ,if it were possible to clean the salad by merely wiping the leaves with a towel1 it would be better than washing2 but it must be washed if there is any earth or sand on it4 ,the salad should be made by an experienced person1 who can judge at a glance what quantity of salt1 pepper1 oil1 and vinegar is necessary4 ,the quantities cannot be given1 as that depends on the quantity of salad4 ,chopped parsley and chives are served on a small plate at the same time with the salad1 as many persons like those spices4 ,celery4--,when the celery is washed and cleaned1 wipe it dry1 cut the white or eatable part 7the top or green part is used for soup7 in pieces about one inch long1 put them in the salad-dish with salt1 vinegar1 and mustard1 stir a little1 leave thus about one hour1 then add pepper and oil1 move again1 and serve4 ,lettuce4--,lettuce1 and especially ,cos or ,roman lettuce1 must be handled very gingerly1 in order not to wilt the leaves while cleaning and washing4 ,when the head of the lettuce1 especially of ,roman lettuce1 is hard1 it is not necessary to wash it at all1 as when the outer leaves are taken off1 the rest is perfectly clean4 ,never use the knife1 but break the leaves2 put them in the salad-dish2 spread all over the dish1 according to taste and fancy1 the blossoms and petals 7not the leaves7 of any or all of the following plants3 burnet1 wild chiccory1 rose 7any kind71 pink1 sage1 lady's-slipper1 marsh-mallow1 nasturtium1 periwinkle4 ,thus decorated1 the salad is put on the table at the setting of it1 and made when the time for eating it comes4 ,of these decorative flowers1 the handiest are the rose and pink1 as at every season of the year they are easily obtained4 ,in spring and summer most of the others can also be had easily4 ,the salad1 thus decorated1 is placed on the table at the same time with the soup4 ,it is made while the roast-piece is carved or eaten2 the petals of flowers or blossoms are not removed1 and1 of course1 are eaten with the lettuce4 ,the salad is seasoned with salt1 pepper1 vinegar1 and oil4 ,the proportions are two tablespoonfuls of oil to one of vinegar for a salad for three1 four1 or five persons4 ,it is generally moved round in the dish1 so as to impregnate every leaf with the seasoning4 ,it is served immediately after the roast-piece4 ,cream may be used instead of oil4 ,turnip-rooted ,celery 7called also ,soup ,celery47--,clean1 wash well1 and scrape it carefully2 cut it in thin slices1 place it in the salad-dish1 sprinkle salt1 pepper1 vinegar1 and mustard on it1 mix well the whole together1 and leave thus from four to six hours4 ,then throw away the vinegar1 or most of it2 add very little salt and vinegar1 oil1 and move well4 ,serve as above1 that is1 immediately after the roast-piece of the dinner4 ,a salad with cabbage1 chiccory1 corn-salad1 or any kind of greens1 after being properly cleaned1 washed1 wiped dry1 and cut in pieces if necessary1 is made and served exactly like a salad of lettuce described above4 ,nasturtium4--,this is said to be a native of ,mexico2 it makes a good salad in summer-time4 ,make and serve like a salad of lettuce4 ,chervil and ,sorrel4--,in ,italy1 ,spain1 and the south of ,france1 they make salad with these two vegetables1 half of each1 prepared and served like lettuce4 ,some persons like a thick sauce with salad2 it is made thus3 ,put a hard-boiled yolk of egg in a bowl1 mash it1 and then mix with it salt and a tablespoonful of vinegar2 when these three are thoroughly mixed1 add pepper and oil 7about two tablespoonfuls of oil71 little by little1 stirring and mixing well the while2 turn the mixture over the salad1 and move as directed above4 ,the mixture may be prepared in the salad-dish1 and the salad put in afterward4 ,mustard should never be used with lettuce2 it is too strong to be eaten with such tender vegetables4 ,of ,salsify4--,in the spring1 when the top of the salsify has grown for one or two weeks only1 and immediately after the frost is out of the ground1 cut it off1 split it in four1 wash it well1 drain it dry1 and prepare as a salad of lettuce4 ,the root is prepared as described for salsify1 and is never made in salad4 ,of ,cucumbers4--,peel and slice them1 then put them in a vessel1 salt every layer1 and leave thus in a cool place about one hour1 drain them dry and then dress them with oil1 vinegar1 salt1 and pepper2 slices of onion may be added1 if liked4 ,of ,beans4--,boil the beans in water with a little salt1 drain them dry1 and then dress them with parsley chopped fine1 salt1 pepper1 oil1 and vinegar4 ,of ,beets4--,boil the beets in water only till done1 and when cool1 peel and slice them1 and prepare them with pepper1 salt1 vinegar1 and oil4 ,the beets may be baked4 ,of ,eggs4--,slice hard-boiled eggs1 and dress them with chopped parsley1 salt1 pepper1 vinegar1 and oil4 ,of ,lentils4--,proceed as for beans in every particular4 ,of ,onions4--,bake the onions1 then peel and slice them1 and dress them with mustard1 salt1 pepper1 vinegar1 and oil4 ,of ,tomatoes4--,wash1 wipe dry1 and slice the tomatoes2 slice also onions and mix with them1 the quantity to be according to taste2 then season with salt1 pepper1 oil1 and vinegar4 ,of ,walnuts4--,the ,european walnut only can be used1 and as soon as good to eat2 that is1 before the outer shell dries and opens4 ,break the nuts in two1 take out the kernels with a pointed knife1 and place them in a salad-dish1 with some juice of grapes not yet ripe2 add salt and pepper1 leave thus two or three hours1 moving now and then1 and serve4 ,the edible part will be found very good eaten that way4 ,to persons who have never eaten any1 it may appear a strange dish1 but let them try it4 ,of ,potatoes4--,a potato-salad is the one that requires the most seasonings1 especially oil and vinegar4 ,they are better served warm than cold1 although many prefer them in the latter state4 ,when steamed1 peeled1 and sliced1 put them in the salad-dish1 with salt1 pepper1 vinegar1 oil1 and parsley1 to taste4 ,mix the whole gently and well1 and serve4 ,if served very warm1 butter may be used instead of oil4 ,another4--,add to the above a few anchovies1 or slices of pickled cucumbers1 or capers1 or pickled beets4 ,another4--,add to the first some slices of truffles1 previously soaked in ,madeira wine for ten hours1 and also a little of the wine4 ,another4--,put a hard-boiled yolk of egg in the salad-dish1 with two tablespoonfuls of oil1 and mix well so as to make a paste of them2 then add two anchovies1 a piece of tunny the size of a nutmeg1 and half a dozen sprigs of chervil1 the whole chopped fine2 mix again with the rest2 add also a chopped pickled cucumber1 mustard to taste1 vinegar1 and then the slices of potatoes 7warm or cold71 slices of truffles previously soaked in ,madeira wine1 a little of the wine also1 salt1 and pepper2 stir and mix again well1 and serve4 ,apricots1 ,oranges1 ,peaches1 ,pears1 ,strawberries1 ,raspberries1 ,blackberries1 ,currants1 and like ,berries1 in ,salad4--,dust the bottom of a dish with white sugar1 put a layer of slices of apricots1 oranges1 peaches1 or pears1 or a layer of the others entire1 and dust again2 repeat the same till the whole is in1 then add over the whole a pinch of grated nutmeg1 with ,french brandy or rum to suit your taste1 and serve as a dessert4 ,cocoa-nut4--,peel it carefully and soak it in brandy for twenty-four hours4 ,a little sugar may be added2 serve as a dessert4 ,salad ,macedoine4--,this salad ought to be called compound salad1 as it is made of a little of every thing that can be served in salad1 i4 e41 fish1 meat1 green and dry vegetables1 c4 ,when the whole is mixed1 you add chopped parsley1 sweet-oil1 vinegar1 salt1 and pepper2 you shake it till your arms are sore1 and you have a salad ,macedoine4 ,every one should try it2 serve as an entremets4 ,salmon and ,turbot4--,cut in slices1 place them in a salad-dish1 with hard-boiled eggs cut in two1 or with some lettuce1 and serve as a hors-d'oeuvre1 with salt1 pepper1 oil1 and vinegar4 ,of ,pineapple4--,proceed as for that of apricots1 etc41 in every particular4 ,of ,anchovy4--,clean and bone the anchovies1 and then place them in the middle of a dish2 chop fine some hard-boiled yolks of eggs and put a string of it around the anchovies2 do the same with the whites1 and then put a string of chopped parsley around the whites2 season with oil and very little vinegar4 ,serve as a hors-d'oeuvre4 ,pickles and ,preserves4--,to pickle the fruit1 it must be pickled before commencing to ripen1 and be sound2 the same for vegetables4 ,when the fruit or vegetable is clean1 and cut in pieces1 if necessary1 such as cabbage1 have water on the fire1 and drop it in at the first boil4 ,if the fruit or vegetable is desired white1 add to the water lemon or unripe grape juice4 ,it is necessary to be very careful in blanching1 for1 if too much blanched or cooked1 it will be soft and tasteless2 if not enough1 it will ferment4 ,as a general rule1 it is cooked as soon as it floats1 but it can be ascertained by running a skewer or a small knife through it4 ,by putting some fresh spinach-leaves or fresh grape-vine-leaves on the top of the fruit or vegetable1 it will keep it more green than without4 ,when blanched1 take from the fire and drain4 ,drop it immediately in cold water1 and drain again4 ,when dry1 put the fruit or vegetable in jars1 cover it with boiling vinegar2 season with peppers1 pepper-corns1 cloves1 and tarragon1 also some rock-salt4 ,when perfectly cold1 seal the jars air-tight1 and keep in a dark1 cool1 and dry closet4 ,every kind of fruit or vegetables can be pickled in the same way2 the only difference is in the time of blanching or cooking1 which is according to the nature of the fruit3 apples1 string-beans1 beets1 cabbages1 cauliflowers1 cherries1 cucumbers1 lemons1 melons1 mushrooms1 onions1 peaches1 pears1 plums1 pumpkins1 quinces1 radishes1 walnuts1 etc41 may also be preserved in salt and water1 and in the following way3 ,when cooked as above1 put them in jars and cover them with very salt water4 ,seal when cool1 and then put the jars in a boiler full of cold water1 with straw or rags to prevent breaking them2 set on the fire1 boil from twenty to thirty minutes1 take from the fire1 let cool2 then take the jars from the water and put away as the above4 ,peas and mushrooms are almost always preserved in water and salt4 ,asparagus is also preserved1 but it is so difficult to succeed1 that even manufacturers of preserves have given it up4 ,tomatoes4--,wash them and then bruise them in a boiler2 set on the fire1 boil half an hour1 and strain1 to secure all the juice4 ,put the juice on the fire1 boil till reduced about one-half1 let cool1 put in jars1 seal them1 put them in a boiler of cold water1 with straw or rags to prevent breakage2 set the boiler on the fire1 boil twenty minutes1 take off1 let cool4 ,when perfectly cold1 take the jars off1 place in a cool1 dark cellar1 and we warrant that they keep for years4 ,no salt or seasonings of any kind are used to preserve them4 ,when you wish to use them1 season to taste4 ,tomato ,catsup4--,to make catsup with the above sauce1 you have only to add to it1 when in jars1 peppers1 pimento1 cloves1 etc42 but it is really not necessary1 being too strong for this climate4 ,another way4--,take good and well-ripened tomatoes1 clean and wash them well1 put them in a stewpan and set it on a moderate fire for a while2 take from the fire1 throw away the water coming from them1 and then strain them into a vessel4 ,put what there is in the vessel back on the fire1 and in the same stewpan1 and let it reduce about one-half2 take from the fire1 pour in a crockery pot1 and leave thus twenty-four hours2 then put in bottles1 cork well1 and place them in a cold and dry place4 ,cucumbers4--,the small green ones are the best4 ,clean them well in cold water with a brush1 removing the prickles4 ,put cold water in a vessel with rock-salt in it1 and shake it to dissolve the salt2 soak the cucumbers in it for about three days4 ,take them out and immediately put them in pots or jars with small onions1 a few cloves of garlic1 pepper-corns1 rock-salt1 cloves1 and a bunch of seasonings composed of bay-leaves1 tarragon1 and burnet2 cover them with boiling vinegar 7turn the vinegar on them as soon as it boils71 cover the pots or jars air-tight when perfectly cold4 ,look at the cucumbers every two or three days for the first three weeks1 and after that only once in a while4 ,according to the quality of the vinegar or of the cucumber itself1 the whole may turn white after a while2 in that case throw away vinegar and spices1 put new spices in1 the same spices as above1 except the onions1 which you keep with the cucumbers2 cover again with boiling vinegar1 and cover when cold as before4 ,if they have not been kept too long in that state before changing the vinegar1 they will be just as good as if they had not turned white4 ,,eggs1 ,,macaroni1 ,,and ,,rice4 ,eggs are fit to eat as soon as laid1 and the sooner they are used the better4 ,you ascertain if they are fresh with an oonoscope1 or by holding them before a light and looking through4 ,there are several ways to preserve eggs1 but to do which they must be fresh2 as soon as perfectly cold after being laid1 they may be preserved4 ,dissolve gum in water to the consistency of thin mucilage1 and with a brush give a coat of it to the eggs2 lay them in a box of charcoal dust and keep them in a dry1 dark1 and cool place4 ,when wanted1 they are soaked in cold water for a few minutes1 and washed4 ,they are also preserved in hydrate of lime4 ,when boiled hard1 let them cool and place them in a dry1 cool1 and dark place2 they will keep for weeks4 ,if wanted warm after that1 put them in cold water1 set on the fire1 and take off when the water is warm4 ,with ,mushrooms4--,cut in strips or fillets four mushrooms1 one onion1 one clove of garlic1 and fry them with two ounces of butter1 then add a tablespoonful of flour1 stir for about one minute1 add also half a pint of broth1 same of white wine1 boil gently till reduced about one-half1 when put in the pan eight or ten hard-boiled eggs cut in dice1 or cut the whites only in dice and put in the yolk whole1 boil one minute and serve4 ,it makes an excellent dish for breakfast4 ,with ,cheese and ,parsley4--,put about two ounces of butter in a saucepan on the fire1 and when melted fry in it a tablespoonful of parsley1 chopped fine2 then add a pinch of nutmeg1 salt1 pepper1 about four ounces of pineapple or ,gruyere cheese1 grated1 and a gill of white wine2 stir till the cheese is melted1 when you add eight or ten eggs1 one after another1 stirring the whole time and mixing them with the cheese2 serve when done4 ,more cheese may be used1 according to taste4 ,in ,fricassee4--,put about half a pound of stale bread with one pint of milk in a saucepan on the fire and boil for two or three minutes1 then mash well so as to mix the two together1 put back on the fire1 stir continually till it makes a rather thin paste1 then take off1 mix with it six or eight eggs1 grated cheese to taste1 salt and pepper1 put back on the fire1 stir1 and serve when cooked4 ,lemon-juice may be sprinkled on just before serving4 ,a la ,lyonnaise4--,chop fine two white onions and fry them with two ounces of butter1 then add salt1 a pinch of nutmeg1 half a pint of broth2 boil gently and stir now and then till it turns rather thick1 when you add also eight whites of eggs1 chopped2 give one boil1 and serve4 ,place the eight yolks1 whole1 all around1 and between and alternately a small cake feuillete1 and serve warm4 ,a la ,bechamel4--,slice the eggs or cut them in four pieces lengthwise1 put them in ,bechamel sauce1 set on a slow fire for two minutes1 and serve warm4 ,fines ,herbes4--,mix well together in a saucepan1 and cold1 two ounces of butter with a tablespoonful of flour2 set on the fire1 stir1 and when melted thoroughly1 add a teaspoonful of parsley and one of chives1 chopped fine1 salt1 pepper1 and about a gill of white wine2 stir1 and boil gently for about five minutes1 and turn over hard-boiled eggs in a dish2 serve warm4 ,the eggs are served whole1 shelled1 but not cut4 ,piquante-,sauce4--,dish hard-boiled eggs as for fines herbes1 and turn over them a piquante sauce2 serve warm4 ,they may be served in the same way with any other sauce4 ,stuffed1 or a l',aurore4--,cut six hard-boiled eggs in two lengthwise2 take the yolks off the whites2 chop them fine with six or eight sprigs of parsley1 put both eggs and parsley in a bowl2 add salt1 pepper1 a little nutmeg grated1 a piece of the soft part of bread soaked in milk and squeezed1 three ounces of butter1 mix the whole well4 ,then with the mixture fill the whites1 that is1 the place where the yolks were2 fill a little more than full1 so that all the mixture will go into and upon the twelve halves4 ,lay in a saucepan a puree of spinach or of sorrel1 or of any other vegetable1 according to taste2 lay the halves of eggs on it1 the mixture upward2 put for ten minutes in the oven1 and serve warm4 ,in ,boxes4--,fold note-paper so as to make a kind of square box without a cover2 put half an ounce of butter in it with a pinch of chopped parsley2 lay it on a gridiron and on a slow fire1 break an egg in it1 and when nearly done add salt and bread-crumbs1 to taste2 serve warm when done4 ,with ,cheese4--,prepare as the above2 add grated cheese at the same time you add salt and bread-crumbs2 finish the cooking1 and serve warm4 ,au ,gratin4--,chop fine six or eight sprigs of parsley1 a shallot if handy1 or a small onion1 half an ounce of the soft part of bread1 an anchovy1 and then mix the whole well with two ounces of butter2 mix again with two yolks of eggs1 place the mixture in a tin dish1 place on a slow fire1 and when getting rather dry break half a dozen eggs over it1 dust with bread-crumbs1 season with salt and pepper1 and when nearly done spread two yolks of eggs beaten1 with a teaspoonful of water over the whole1 and serve warm4 ,with ,ham4--,prepare as scrambled eggs with the exception that you put in the pan1 at the same time you put in the eggs1 four ounces of boiled ham cut in dice4 ,serve the same4 ,with ,milk1 ,water1 or ,cream4--,these three names are wrongly applied to eggs in many cook-books2 they are creams1 and not eggs4 ,ham and ,eggs4--,there are several ways of preparing this good dish2 the ham may be raw or boiled2 in slices or in dice2 mixed with the eggs1 or merely served under4 ,fry the ham slightly1 dish it and then turn fried eggs over it2 or fry both at the same time1 the eggs being whole or scrambled1 according to taste4 ,with ,asparagus4--,cut in pieces1 about a quarter of an inch long1 a gill of the tender part of asparagus1 throw it in boiling water with a little salt2 boil as directed1 and drain4 ,beat eight eggs just enough to mix the yolks with the whites2 put them in a stewpan1 season with a pinch of grated nutmeg1 salt1 and pepper2 add also a tablespoonful of warm water1 set on a slow fire1 stir till they are becoming thick2 then add four ounces of butter1 stir five minutes longer2 add the gill of asparagus2 simmer about five minutes longer1 and serve4 ,boiled4--7,see ,eggs in the ,shell47--,put the eggs in boiling water with a little salt1 as near as possible at the first boiling2 leave from five to ten minutes2 take out and put them immediately in cold water2 then shell them without breaking them1 and use4 ,with ,brown ,butter4--,break gently in a plate or dish1 and without breaking the yolks1 eight eggs2 sprinkle salt and pepper on them4 ,put two ounces of butter in a frying-pan1 and on a good fire2 when turning brown subdue the fire4 ,put also1 and at the same time1 the same quantity of butter in another frying-pan1 and on a good fire1 and when hot1 place the eggs in without breaking the yolks2 then spread over the eggs the brown butter you have in the other2 take from the fire when you see the whites becoming hard2 put them on a dish1 pour on them a tablespoonful of vinegar which you have warmed in the pan after having used the brown butter1 and serve4 ,fried4--,put half a pound of lard in a frying-pan1 and on a good fire2 when hot1 break gently1 one by one 7being careful not to break the yolk71 the quantity of eggs you can put in the pan without allowing them to adhere together2 turn them upside down once with a spoon or skimmer2 take from the pan with a skimmer as soon as the white part becomes hard1 and serve with fried parsley around4 ,scrambled1 or ,mashed4--,beat six eggs just enough to mix the whites and yolks together2 put two ounces of butter in a stewpan1 and set on the fire2 when melted1 take from the fire1 add salt1 pepper1 and a pinch of grated nutmeg1 then the eggs1 also a tablespoonful of broth2 put back on a very slow fire1 stir continually till cooked1 and serve warm4 ,sur le ,plat4--,butter the bottom of a crockery or tin dish with two ounces of butter2 break into the dish and over the butter1 gently and without breaking the yolks1 six eggs2 sprinkle salt1 pepper1 and grated nutmeg all over1 put the dish on a slow fire1 or on warm cinders1 and when the white is hard1 serve4 ,they must be served in the dish in which they are cooked4 ,in the ,shell4--,bear in mind that some eggs cook quicker than others4 ,put eggs in boiling water for two minutes1 if liked soft or underdone2 and three minutes1 if liked more done4 ,they are generally served enveloped in a napkin4 ,in ,matelote4--,put a bottle of claret wine in a stewpan and set it on a good fire2 add to it two sprigs of parsley1 one of thyme1 a clove of garlic1 a middling-sized onion1 a clove1 a bay-leaf1 salt1 and pepper2 boil fifteen minutes2 then take all the seasonings out and have your wine boiling gently2 break one egg in by letting it fall gently in order to have it entire1 and then take it out immediately with a skimmer1 and place it on a dish2 do the same with eight eggs2 keep them in a warm 7but not hot7 place4 ,after which put in the wine1 without taking it from the fire1 four ounces of butter kneaded with a tablespoonful of flour2 boil till reduced to a proper thickness1 pour it on the eggs1 and serve4 ,with ,onions4--,cut in dice three middling-sized onions and put them in a saucepan with four ounces of butter2 set it on a moderate fire and stir now and then till the onions are turning yellow1 then sprinkle on them a teaspoonful of flour1 salt1 and pepper2 add a pint of warm water and boil gently till rather thick1 but not too much so4 ,put into the saucepan half a dozen hard-boiled eggs cut in four pieces each1 lengthwise1 boil gently two or three minutes longer1 and serve warm4 ,with ,green ,peas4--,proceed as for eggs with asparagus1 except that you boil a gill of peas instead of asparagus2 prepare and serve in the same way4 ,with ,cauliflowers4--,blanch the cauliflowers and proceed as for the above4 ,eggs are prepared as above1 with celery1 lettuce1 etc4 ,a la ,tripe4--,proceed exactly the same as for eggs with onions1 except that you use milk or broth instead of water4 ,a la ,neige1 or ,floating ,island4--,beat four 7or more7 whites of eggs to a stiff froth4 ,put in a tin saucepan one pint of milk and one ounce of sugar1 set on the fire1 and as soon as it rises put lumps of the whites into it with a skimmer1 turn the lumps over after having been in about half a minute1 leave them in another half minute1 take them off with a skimmer also1 place them on a sieve to allow the milk that may be around the lumps to drop4 ,put in a tin saucepan four yolks of eggs1 two ounces of sugar1 and mix well2 add the milk that has been used to cook the whites1 after having strained it1 and mix again4 ,set on the fire1 stir1 give one boil1 take off1 add a few drops of essence to flavor2 turn into a dish2 place the lumps of whites gently on the liquor and they will float1 and serve cold4 ,if the liquor is desired thicker1 use only half of the milk4 ,to poach ,eggs4--,set cold water on the fire in a frying-pan1 with salt and vinegar in it1 a tablespoonful of vinegar to a quart of water4 ,as soon as it boils1 break a fresh egg in the water or in a small plate1 and slide it gently into the water4 ,then with a skimmer turn the white gently and by degrees over the yolk1 so as to envelop the latter in the former1 giving the eggs an elongated shape4 ,they may be poached hard or soft--hard when the yolk is cooked hard2 soft when the yolk is still in a soft state4 ,fondue of ,eggs4--,beat well six eggs1 and put them in a stewpan with two ounces of ,gruyere1 well grated1 and about one ounce of butter2 set on a brisk fire1 and leave till it becomes rather thick1 stirring all the time with a wooden spoon2 take from the fire1 add pepper1 and stir a little2 turn over on a warm dish1 and serve4 ,this is a very favorite dish in ,italy1 and also in ,switzerland1 where it originated4 ,to beat ,whites of ,eggs4--,have a convenient basin2 break the eggs gently2 allow the whites to fall in the basin and retain the yolks in the shell4 ,this is very easily done by breaking the shell about the middle1 opening slowly so as to let the white fall1 and at the same time retain the yolk in one of the halves of the shell2 if some white remains1 turn the yolk from one half into the other1 and vice versa1 till the whole of it has fallen4 ,then add a very small pinch of salt to prevent the curdling of the eggs2 commence by beating slowly2 beat faster and faster1 till they form a stiff froth4 ,they are well beaten when1 placing a twenty-five and a ten-cent silver piece on the top1 they are firm enough to bear them4 ,if the pieces sink1 beat again4 ,always beat eggs in a cool place1 they will rise better and faster4 7,see ,egg-beater47 ,basin4--,pay no attention to the old prejudice and belief that metal is not good to beat eggs in4 ,the best and easiest for family use1 in which one as well as a dozen whites of eggs can be easily whisked1 is of block-tin1 and can be made by any tinsmith4 ,it has the shape of an ordinary goblet or tumbler if the foot is cut off1 the bottom being round4 ,size3 six inches deep from the centre of the bottom to the top2 eight inches in diameter at the top1 and only six inches in diameter where the bottom commences 7or five inches from the top72 the basin being broader at the top than at the bottom1 and the bottom being one inch deeper in the centre than on the sides4 ,omelets--how to beat the ,eggs4--,break in a bowl the quantity of eggs you want1 or as many as there are persons at the table2 beat them well with salt and pepper1 by means of a fork4 ,a little grated nutmeg may be added1 if liked4 ,the adding of milk to the eggs makes the omelet soft4 ,to make it4--,always have a brisk fire to make an omelet2 the quicker it is made the better1 and the less butter it requires4 ,if possible1 have a frying-pan to make omelets only in2 keep it in a clean place and never wash it if you can help it2 by warming it a little before making the omelets and wiping it with a coarse towel1 you can keep it as clean as can be without washing4 ,to wash it causes the omelet to adhere to it while cooking1 and injures its appearance4 ,commence by beating the eggs1 then put the butter in the frying-pan1 about two ounces for eight eggs2 set on the fire and toss gently to melt the butter as evenly and as quickly as possible1 else some of it will get black before the whole is melted4 ,as soon as melted1 turn the beaten eggs in1 and stir and move continually with a fork or knife1 so as to cook the whole as nearly as possible at the same time4 ,if some part of the omelet sticks to the pan1 add a little butter1 and raise that part with a knife so as to allow the butter to run under it1 and prevent it from sticking again4 ,it must be done quickly1 and without taking the pan from the fire4 ,when cooked according to taste1 soft or hard1 fold1 dish1 and serve warm4 ,it is folded in this way3 run the knife or fork under one part of the omelet1 on the side nearest to the handle of the pan1 and turn that part over the other part of the omelet1 so as to double it or nearly so2 then have an oval dish in your left hand1 take hold of the frying-pan with the right hand1 the thumb upward instead of the fingers1 as is generally the case in taking hold of a pan1 incline the dish by raising the left side1 place the edge of the pan 7the one opposite to the handle7 on the edge of the dish1 turn it upside down--and you have the omelet on the dish1 doubled up and sightly4 ,cooks do not succeed in turning out a decent omelet generally1 because they cook it too much1 turn it upside down in the pan1 or because they do not know how to handle the pan4 ,in holding the pan as it is generally and naturally held1 that is1 with the palm of the hand resting on the upper side of the handle1 it is impossible for anybody1 cook or other1 to dish the omelet properly without extraordinary efforts2 while by resting the thumb on the upper part of the handle1 the fingers under it1 the little finger being the nearest to the pan1 it is only necessary to move the right hand from right to left1 describing a circle and twisting the wrist1 so that1 when the pan is turned upside down1 the fingers are up instead of downward1 as they were when taking hold of the pan4 ,an omelet is called soft if1 when you commence to fold1 only about two-thirds of the eggs are solidified2 and hard1 when nearly the whole of the eggs are solidified4 ,with a good fire it takes only about four minutes to make an omelet4 ,by following our directions carefully1 it will be very easy to make an omelet1 and make it well and sightly1 even the first time1 and will be child's play to make one after a few days' practice4 ,with ,apples4--,peel two or three apples1 cut them in thin1 round slices1 fry them with a little butter1 and take them from the pan2 then put a little more butter in the pan1 and when hot1 pour in it six beaten eggs1 in which you have mixed the slices of apples2 cook1 dish1 and serve as directed above4 ,with ,asparagus4--,cut the eatable part of the asparagus half an inch in length1 throw them in boiling water with a little salt1 drain them when cooked1 and chop them fine2 beat them with eggs and a little milk2 have hot butter in a frying-pan on a good fire2 pour the eggs in1 tossing continually till done1 and serve on a dish as directed4 ,with ,bacon4--,put two ounces of butter in a frying-pan2 when melted1 add two ounces of bacon cut in dice2 when turning brown and very hot1 pour in eight eggs1 beaten as directed above2 toss the pan nearly all the time till done1 and serve as directed4 ,au naturel4--,beat five eggs1 with salt and pepper1 as directed4 ,put about an ounce of butter in a frying-pan on the fire1 and when melted1 turn the eggs in2 cook1 dish1 and serve as directed4 ,aux ,fines ,herbes4--,proceed as for au naturel in every particular1 except that you beat with the eggs a tablespoonful of chopped parsley1 or parsley and chives1 when handy2 cook1 dish1 and serve in the same way4 ,celestine4--,beat eight eggs as directed4 ,dip the point of a small kitchen knife in water and cut with it little lumps of butter the size of a pea and of any shape2 about two ounces of it1 drop them in the eggs and beat a little to mix1 then melt butter in a frying-pan and cook1 dish1 and serve as directed4 ,in the ,oven4--,when the omelet au naturel or ,celestine is cooked enough to commence folding1 put the frying-pan in a quick oven for about one minute and serve4 ,the omelet swells and does not need folding1 but if it gains in bulk1 it loses in taste4 ,jardiniere4--,chop fine1 parsley1 chives1 onions1 shallots1 a few leaves of sorrel1 and a few sprigs of chervil2 beat and mix the whole well with beaten eggs2 cook1 dish1 and serve as directed4 ,it requires a little more butter than if made with eggs only4 ,with ,cheese4--,grate some pine-apple or ,gruyere cheese1 about two ounces to four or five eggs1 and mix and beat it with the eggs2 then make the omelet as directed4 ,with ,kidney4--,saute as directed1 till about half done1 part of a beef or calf's kidney1 or one sheep's kidney1 and mix it with beaten eggs4 ,cook and serve as directed4 ,it makes an excellent dish for breakfast4 ,the kidney may be cooked till done1 and when the omelet is to be folded in the pan1 put five or six tablespoonfuls of the kidney on the middle of the omelet1 fold1 dish1 and serve as directed4 ,when dished1 none of the kidney is seen1 being under the omelet4 ,with ,mushrooms4--,cut mushrooms in pieces1 and mix them1 with beaten eggs2 then cook and serve them as directed4 ,this also makes an excellent dish for breakfast1 especially if made with fresh mushrooms4 ,with ,sorrel4--,make an omelet au naturel or ,celestine1 and serve it on a puree of sorrel4 ,the same may be served on a puree of tomatoes or onions4 ,with ,lobster4--,cut two ounces of boiled lobster in small dice1 mix it well with beaten eggs1 and cook and serve as directed4 ,with ,sugar4--,mix well the yolks of eight eggs with two ounces of fine white sugar and a pinch of salt1 and beat well the whites2 then mix well yolks1 whites1 and the rind of half a lemon1 having the latter chopped very fine4 ,put four ounces of butter in a frying-pan1 and set it on the fire2 when melted1 pour the eggs in1 and toss and stir as directed4 ,then dust a dish with fine white sugar1 put the omelet on1 then dust again the upper side with the same2 have ready a red-hot shovel1 or any other flat piece of iron1 pass it over the top of the omelet1 so as to color it while melting the sugar1 and serve warm4 ,the whole process must be performed quickly4 ,the sugar may be beaten with the eggs whole2 both ways are good2 it is only a question of taste4 ,with ,rum4--,make an omelet with sugar as above1 and when on the table1 pour a gill or so of rum on it1 set fire to it1 and let it burn as long as it can1 taking slowly but continually with a silver spoon the rum from the sides1 and pouring it on the middle while it is burning1 and until it dies out by itself2 then eat immediately4 ,with ,truffles4--,slice four ounces of truffles1 beat them with six eggs1 a little milk1 and a little salt and pepper4 ,put in a frying-pan four ounces of butter1 and set it on a good fire2 when melted1 pour the eggs in1 toss almost continually till done1 and serve as directed for omelets4 ,with ,ham4--,cut four ounces of ham in small dice1 and set it on the fire in a frying-pan with about two ounces of butter2 stir1 and while the ham is frying1 beat six eggs and turn them over the ham in the pan when the latter is fried2 stir with a fork1 to cook the eggs as quickly as possible2 turn the part of the omelet nearest to you over the other part by means of a fork1 and serve like an omelet au naturel4 ,with ,boiled ,ham4--,proceed as for the above in every particular1 except that you mix the ham with the eggs after the latter are beaten2 put the mixture in the frying-pan1 and finish as the above4 ,with ,salt ,pork 7called omelet au ,lard74--,beat half a dozen eggs with a fork4 ,cut four ounces of salt pork in dice1 set it on the fire in a frying-pan1 and when nearly fried turn the eggs in2 stir1 and finish as other omelets4 ,lean or fat salt pork 7according to taste7 may be used1 or both4 ,if it is all lean1 use some butter1 otherwise it will burn4 ,soufflee4--,put in a bowl four ounces of pulverized sugar with four yolks of eggs2 then with a wooden spoon mix well and stir for two minutes2 add a few drops of essence to flavor4 ,beat the whites of four eggs to a stiff froth in another bowl1 and when you see that they are beaten enough1 turn two tablespoonfuls of the yolks and sugar into them1 and while still beating1 but not as fast2 then turn the rest of the yolks and sugar into the whites1 and mix gently with a wooden spoon4 ,butter a tin or silver dish1 turn the mixture into it1 smooth or scallop with the back of a knife1 dust with sugar1 and bake in an oven at about #caj deg44 ,it takes about twelve minutes to bake4 ,another4--,mix well six yolks of eggs with four ounces of sugar2 beat the six whites to a stiff froth and mix them with the rest1 add some lemon-rind chopped very fine or grated4 ,put four ounces of butter in a crockery dish1 set on a moderate fire1 and when the butter is melted pour the eggs in2 stir with a fork1 and as soon as you see some of the mixture becoming hard1 place the dish in a hot oven for about five minutes2 take off1 dust with sugar1 and serve4 ,macedoine1 or a la ,washington4--,make four omelets of four eggs each1 one with apples1 one with asparagus or sorrel 7according to the season71 a third with fines herbes1 and the fourth au naturel2 you serve them on the same dish1 one lapping over the other4 ,it makes a fine as well as a good dish4 ,this omelet1 or rather these omelets1 were a favorite dish with the ,father of his ,country2 they were very often served on his table when he had a grand dinner4 ,it is also served with the four following omelets3 au naturel1 with salt pork1 fines herbes1 and with cheese4 ,with ,oysters4--,blanch a dozen oysters1 drain1 and beat with the eggs1 and then proceed as directed4 ,with ,tunny1 or any kind of smoked or salt ,fish4--,beat the eggs as directed1 using little or no salt2 then chop the fish fine1 mix and beat it with the eggs1 and cook as directed4 ,it requires a little more butter than if there were no fish4 ,a few drops of lemon-juice may be added when dished4 ,with ,sweetmeats4--,make an omelet au naturel1 and when ready to be folded in the pan1 place on the middle of it two or three tablespoonfuls of any kind of sweetmeats1 then fold and serve4 ,omelets are served as entremets after the vegetables1 and at breakfast4 ,all but four are served as entremets1 and all are served at breakfast2 the four excepted are3 with bacon1 ham1 salt pork1 and kidneys4 ,by using different kinds of sweetmeats1 an infinite number of omelets can be made1 and1 except the soufflee1 they are all made alike4 ,macaroni4--,this excellent article of food is now as well known here as in ,europe4 ,the harder the wheat the better the macaroni4 ,the manufacturers of this country use ,michigan flour in preference to any other4 ,to blanch4--,put about three pints of cold water and a little salt on the fire1 and at the first boiling drop half a pound of macaroni into it2 boil gently till tender but not soft4 ,it takes about twenty minutes to boil it1 according to quality4 ,a little butter1 about two ounces1 may be added in boiling4 ,as soon as tender1 turn it into a colander1 and it is ready for use4 ,au ,gratin4--,blanch the macaroni1 and when drained put it on a tin or silver dish1 and mix with it a ,bechamel sauce2 add salt1 pepper1 two or three ounces of butter1 a little nutmeg grated1 about four ounces of grated cheese1 either pine-apple1 ,gruyere1 or ,parmesan2 dust with bread-crumbs1 put about eight pieces of butter the size of a hazel-nut here and there on the top1 set in a warm but not quick oven till the top turns rather brown1 and serve warm as it is1 that is1 in the dish in which it is4 ,if in a tin dish1 put it inside of another dish1 and serve4 ,a l',italienne4--,blanch half a pound of macaroni and drain it4 ,put it in a saucepan with four ounces of butter1 and mix well by stirring the butter in the warm macaroni4 ,then add also three or four tablespoonfuls of gravy2 mix again half a pint of tomato-sauce and grated cheese1 as for au gratin2 set on the fire1 stir1 add salt to taste2 keep on the fire for about ten minutes1 stirring now and then1 and serve warm4 ,napolitaine4--,this is the most expensive way of preparing macaroni4 ,wealthy ,italians have it prepared with beef a la mode gravy only1 or gravy made especially for it1 with good lean beef cut in dice1 and using as many as twelve pounds of meat to make gravy for one pound of macaroni1 the meat being prepared as boiled beef afterward1 but it can be prepared with ordinary gravy4 ,blanch four ounces of macaroni and drain as directed1 then put it in a saucepan with two ounces of butter1 salt1 pepper1 a little grated nutmeg1 and set on the fire2 stir till the butter is melted1 and then add grated cheese as directed for au gratin1 and half a pint of gravy2 stir and mix for about ten minutes1 and serve4 ,macaroni requires much butter2 the quantity of cheese is according to taste2 some put weight for weight of macaroni1 butter1 and cheese4 ,it is also prepared in a mould 7en timbale7 for chartreuse2 it is macaroni ,napolitaine1 when every thing is mixed with it2 instead of leaving it ten minutes on the fire1 put it in the mould1 set in the oven for about fifteen minutes1 turn over a dish1 and serve warm4 ,in using much cheese1 the macaroni will preserve the form of the mould when served4 ,in ,croquettes4--,proceed as for rice croquettes4 ,rice--to boil4--,wash half a pound of rice in water and drain it2 put it in a saucepan with one quart of broth taken from the top of the broth-kettle1 and before having skimmed off the fat2 set on the fire1 boil gently for about fifteen minutes1 or till rather underdone1 and put on a very slow fire to finish the cooking4 ,water and butter may be used instead of broth4 ,if the broth is absorbed or boiled away before the rice is cooked1 add a little more to keep it moist2 add salt1 pepper1 and nutmeg to taste1 and it is ready for use4 ,another way4--,when boiled1 place it in a slow oven to dry it1 and then pour over it1 little by little1 stirring the while1 four ounces of melted butter4 ,another4--,wash half a pound of rice in cold water and drain it4 ,put it in a saucepan with two quarts of cold water1 salt1 and the juice of two lemons2 boil six minutes1 and drain2 put it in a saucepan then with about six ounces of melted butter2 mix1 cover the pan well1 and put it in a slow oven for about half an hour2 take off and use4 ,rice may be boiled in several different ways1 or rather with several ingredients4 ,to the above ways1 in ,india or other southern countries1 they add1 besides salt and nutmeg1 a teaspoonful of curry-powder to a pound of rice4 ,in ,italy they add slices of ham1 sausage1 saffron1 and even ,parmesan cheese4 ,when cooked1 chopped truffles may be added at the same time with the butter4 ,oil is sometimes used instead of butter4 ,in ,border4--,when thus prepared1 take it with a spoon and place it all around the dish1 leaving room in the middle to serve a bird1 and then serve warm4 ,another way4--,when prepared as above1 put the rice in a mould for border2 the rice must be rather dry and the mould well buttered4 ,press on it so as to fill the mould well1 then put it in an oven at about #cej deg4 ,fahr4 for ten or twelve minutes4 ,take off1 place a dish on the mould1 turn it upside down1 and remove the mould4 ,the inside of a mould1 for border1 is plain1 but the outside and bottom are scalloped2 the bottom makes the top of the rice when served4 ,there is an empty place in the centre to hold a bird4 ,cake4--,butter a mould well and then dust it with sugar4 ,prepare rice as directed for croquettes1 and instead of spreading it on a dish to cool1 fill the mould about two-thirds full with it1 and bake in a warm but not quick oven for about half an hour4 ,serve on a dish4 ,the mould may be prepared with sugar only in this way3 put pulverized sugar into the mould1 set it on a rather slow fire1 and when turning rather brown turn the mould round and round1 so as to have it lined all over with sugar2 bake as above1 turn over a dish1 remove the mould1 and serve hot or cold1 with or without a sauce for puddings4 ,in ,croquettes4--,wash four ounces of rice in cold water and set it on the fire with a pint of milk and the rind of half a lemon2 when done or nearly so1 the milk may be boiled away or absorbed by the rice2 add a little more to keep the rice nearly covered with it4 ,when done1 take off and mix with it two tablespoonfuls of sugar1 two ounces of butter1 two tablespoonfuls of milk1 three yolks of eggs1 a little pinch of salt1 and the same of nutmeg--the latter1 if liked4 ,put back on the fire for one minute1 stirring the while4 ,spread the mixture on a dish and let cool4 ,if the croquettes are for breakfast1 the above may be done the evening previous4 ,when cold1 stir the mixture1 so as to mix the upper part with the rest that is less dry4 ,put it in parts on the paste-board1 about a tablespoonful for each part4 ,have bread-crumbs on it1 roll each part of the shape you wish1 either round1 like a small sausage1 or flat1 or of a chop-shape4 ,then dip each croquette in beaten egg1 roll in bread-crumbs again1 and fry in hot fat4 7,see ,frying47 ,to shape them1 roll each part round at first1 and with a few bread-crumbs2 then with a knife you smooth both ends1 while you roll them round with the left hand2 the two must be done at the same time4 ,when fried and in the colander1 dust with sugar1 and serve as warm as possible4 ,croquettes are generally served in pyramid4 ,a napkin may be spread on the platter1 and the croquettes served on it4 ,in ,fritters4--,when a rice-cake is cold1 it may be cut in pieces1 dipped in batter for fritters1 fried 7see ,frying71 dusted with sugar1 and served hot4 ,souffle4--,prepare rice as directed for croquettes1 and when ready to be spread on a dish1 add a few drops of essence to flavor2 have five whites of eggs beaten to a stiff froth1 and mix them gently with it2 butter a mould well1 fill it two-thirds full with the mixture1 dust with sugar and set in a warm but not quick oven1 and serve as soon as brown and raised4 ,it takes from fifteen to twenty minutes4 ,if the oven is warmer under the cake than on the top1 it would be necessary to place something under the mould1 the cake rises better and is lighter4 ,this cake1 like every souffle1 must be served promptly and before it falls4 ,with ,fruit4--,this dish is excellent1 sightly1 easily made1 and can be varied infinitely4 ,the rice is prepared as for croquettes1 and is used when ready to be spread over a dish to cool4 ,the fruit1 if it be apples1 pears1 plums1 etc41 is stewed4 ,one or several kinds may be used for the same dish4 ,it is served warm or cold1 according to taste4 ,place a layer of stewed fruit on a dish and then a layer of rice over it2 another layer of the same or of another stewed fruit1 and over it a layer of rice4 ,place as many layers as you fancy1 imitating a pyramid1 and you have a fine dish4 ,rice-water4--,this being often prescribed by doctors against diarrhroea1 we will give the receipt for it4 ,see that the rice is clean1 but do not wash it4 ,put one pint of rice in a pan with a quart of cold water1 and boil gently till the rice is quite soft or a little overdone2 if the water boils away1 fill up with cold water so as to have the rice always covered by it4 ,when done1 mash it through a colander1 put back on the fire1 add water to make it thin or thick1 according to prescription2 as soon as warm1 sweeten to taste with sugar or honey1 and take cold or warm1 also according to prescription4 ,nouilles4--,put four tablespoonfuls of flour on the paste-board2 make a hole in the middle1 and break two eggs in it1 add a pinch of salt1 and knead well2 then roll down to a thickness of one-twelfth of an inch2 dust it slightly with flour2 cut it in strips about an inch wide2 then cut these strips across1 so as to make fillets one inch long and one-eighth of an inch broad4 ,spread the strips on a sieve for half an hour1 to dry them a little4 ,put cold water and a pinch of salt in a saucepan1 and set it on the fire2 at the first boiling throw the nouilles in1 boil two minutes1 stirring occasionally2 drain1 throw them in cold water and it is ready for use4 ,it may be kept in cold water half a day4 ,nouilles are used to make soup1 and are prepared in the same and every way like macaroni4 ,,sweet ,,dishes4 ,these are served both as entremets and dessert4 ,many are entremets at a grand dinner1 and dessert at a family dinner4 ,as the name indicates1 sugar is one of the most important of the compounds used to prepare them4 ,it is used in syrup1 the making of which is generally more difficult than the rest of the operation4 ,the father of cooks1 the great ,careme1 divides syrup1 or the cooking of sugar1 as he calls it1 and as every practitioner has called it since1 into six degrees2 each one corresponding to the six different states into which the sugar passes1 while on the fire1 from the time it begins to boil to that when it begins to turn caramel or burned4 ,a copper pan is the best and handiest of all2 it can be done in another1 but it is more difficult2 the sugar turns brown before being thoroughly cooked or reduced4 ,always use good loaf sugar4 ,if it be necessary to clarify it1 do it in the following way3 for five pounds of sugar1 put the white of an egg in a bowl with half a pint of water1 and beat well with an egg-beater2 then turn into it nearly three pints of water1 stir1 put away half a pint of it to be used afterward4 ,then add to the rest five pounds of sugar1 in lumps1 set on a rather slow fire1 and as soon as it comes to a boil1 mix with it the half pint put away1 little by little1 skimming off carefully the while1 and when no more scum gathers on the surface1 strain through a towel and commence the working4 ,if the sugar does not require to be clarified1 that is1 when it is good white sugar1 set five pounds of it on the fire1 in a copper pan1 with nearly two quarts of water1 and skim off carefully as soon as the scum gathers4 ,it may be stirred a little to cause the sugar to melt evenly1 but as soon as it commences to boil1 stop stirring1 else it will turn white and stringy4 ,it passes from one state or degree to another in a very short time1 and must be watched closely4 ,it is at the first degree when1 by dipping a piece of wood into it so as to retain a drop of it at the end1 and which you touch with another piece of wood--if1 by pulling them apart1 slowly and immediately1 instead of separating it at once1 it forms a thread1 but that soon breaks4 ,it marks then #cd at the hydrometer4 ,it is at the second degree when1 by repeating the same process1 the kind of thread formed does not break as easily as the first4 ,it marks then #cf4 ,it is at the third degree when1 by dipping a skimmer in it1 holding it horizontally and striking it on the pan1 then blowing on it1 it forms small bubbles4 ,it marks #ci at the hydrometer4 ,it is at the fourth degree by trying again with the skimmer after a short time1 and when1 instead of forming bubbles1 it will fly away like threads4 ,it marks then #da4 ,the fifth degree is when1 by dipping a piece of wood in the sugar and quickly dipping it also in a bowl of cold water1 shaking it at the same time and then biting it2 if it breaks easily between the teeth1 but at the same time is sticky1 it has attained the fifth degree1 and marks #dd4 ,a few boilings more and it is at the sixth degree1 and by trying in the same way as the preceding one1 it will break under the teeth1 but will not stick to them4 ,above #dd the mark is uncertain1 the syrup being too thick2 it passes from that state to that of caramel2 is colored1 and would burn immediately4 ,when that happens1 make burnt sugar with it according to direction4 ,apples au ,beurre4--,peel and core the apples with a fruit-corer4 ,cut slices of stale bread about one-quarter of an inch in thickness1 and then cut them again of a round shape with a paste-cutter and of the size of the apples4 ,spread some butter on each slice and place an apple on each also4 ,butter a bakepan1 place the apples and bread in1 fill the hole made in the middle of the apple to core it with sugar2 place on the top of the sugar and on each a piece of butter the size of a hazel-nut1 and set in a warm1 but not quick oven4 ,when about half done1 fill the hole again with sugar and a pinch of cinnamon1 place butter on top as before1 and finish the cooking1 serve warm4 ,when done1 they may be glazed with apple-jelly and put back in the oven for two minutes2 the dish is more sightly4 ,flambantes4--,lay apples in a saucepan1 after being peeled and cored1 add sugar to taste1 and water enough just to cover them1 also a stick of cinnamon1 and set on a rather slow fire1 and leave till done4 ,take them from the pan carefully and without breaking them2 place them on a tin or silver dish1 forming a kind of pyramid or mound2 turn the juice over them1 dust with sugar1 pour good rum all over1 set it on fire1 and serve immediately and warm4 ,as soon as on fire it is placed on the table1 and the host must baste with the rum so as to keep it burning till all the alcohol is exhausted1 then serve4 ,the following cut represents either a dish of apples flambantes before being in flames1 or apples with rice4 ,illustration ,in ,fritters4--,peel1 core1 and cut apples in slices1 and then proceed as directed for fritters4 ,serve hot4 ,with ,wine4--,proceed as for apples flambantes in every particular except that you slice the apples1 and instead of pouring rum over1 you pour ,madeira wine1 and do not set it on fire4 ,meringues4--,peel1 quarter1 and core half a dozen apples2 set them on the fire in a saucepan with two tablespoonfuls of water2 stir occasionally till done1 then mix with them two or three tablespoonfuls of sugar1 and when cold put them on a tin or silver dish2 arrange them as a mound on the middle of the dish4 ,beat three whites of eggs to a stiff froth1 and mix three ounces of pulverized sugar with them2 spread two thirds of that mixture all over and around the apples1 smooth it with a knife2 then put the other third in a paper funnel1 and by squeezing it out1 decorate the dish according to fancy4 ,you may squeeze some small heaps of the mixture here and there1 over and around the dish1 or squeeze it out all around1 giving it a rope-like shape4 ,dust with sugar1 and put in an oven at #bej degrees for twenty to twenty-five minutes4 ,serve warm in the dish in which it has been baked4 ,charlotte4--,peel1 quarter1 and core six apples2 put them in a pan with two tablespoonfuls of water1 cinnamon1 and stew till done1 when add three or four ounces of sugar1 mix gently so as not to mash the apples1 let cool4 ,butter a mould well1 line it1 bottom and sides1 with strips of stale bread1 about one quarter of an inch thick1 one inch broad1 and of a proper length for the mould4 ,fill till about half full with some of the apples1 then put a rather thin layer of any kind of sweetmeat on the apples2 finish the filling up with apples2 cover with pieces of stale bread1 bake in an oven at about #cdj degrees for about twenty minutes1 turn over on a dish1 remove the mould1 and serve hot4 ,with ,sweetmeats4--,prepare apples au beurre1 and when ready to be served1 fill the hole with any kind of sweetmeats or with currant-jelly4 ,serve warm4 ,in ,pine-,apple4--,core the apples with a fruit-corer and then peel them with the scalloped knife 7the peels are used to make syrup or jelly71 place them tastefully on a dish1 so that they will form a pyramid1 filling the place where the core was with sugar and a little cinnamon2 then pour a little apple-syrup on the whole1 and bake4 ,when done1 pour a little more syrup over1 and serve cold or warm4 ,apple-,syrup4--,peel1 quarter1 and core four or six apples1 of the pippin variety2 cook them well in about a pint of water1 a wine-glass of brandy1 and a pinch of grated cinnamon2 when well cooked1 put them in a coarse towel1 and press the juice out2 put it in a stewpan and set it on a good fire2 add a pound of loaf-sugar1 take the foam off with a skimmer a little before it boils1 and boil about five minutes2 take from the fire1 let cool1 bottle it1 corking well4 ,it may be kept for months4 ,syrup with pears1 pine-apple1 etc41 is made in the same way4 ,blanc-,mange4--,set on the fire in a block-tin saucepan one quart of milk with the rind of a lemon and two tablespoonfuls of sugar2 stir occasionally to melt the sugar4 ,then mix about six ounces of corn-starch with half a pint of milk in a bowl4 ,as soon as the milk rises1 take it from the fire2 take off with a skimmer the rind of lemon1 and the skin that has formed on the top of the milk2 put the milk back on the fire2 turn the corn-starch into it1 stir continually and very fast till it is very thick4 ,it will take hardly a minute to get thick4 ,turn into a mould wetted with cold water and put away to cool4 ,when perfectly cold1 serve with the following sauce3 ,mix well in a tin saucepan two ounces of sugar and two yolks of eggs1 then add half a pint of milk and mix again2 set on the fire2 stir continually1 give one boil2 take off2 let cool1 and serve4 ,blanc-,manger4--,throw in boiling water two ounces of sweet almonds and the same of bitter ones1 or pour boiling water over them1 and then skin them as soon as the skin comes off easily4 ,pound them well with four ounces of sugar1 lay the whole in a pan with about a pint of water1 set on the fire1 and when on the point of boiling1 take off and strain4 ,put in a tin saucepan about a pint of milk1 the strained juice1 an ounce of gelatin1 a little rind of lemon1 and a little nutmeg1 both grated2 set the whole on a moderate fire2 simmer just enough to melt the gelatin and mix it with the rest1 and then strain4 ,wet a mould with cold water1 put the mixture in it1 set it on ice1 and serve when cool4 ,it may be served with a sauce like the above4 ,charlotte ,russe4--,wipe a mould well1 see that it is dry1 and then line the bottom and sides with lady's-fingers1 or sponge cake cut in pieces about the size of a lady's-finger4 ,commence by lining the bottom1 placing the pieces so as to form a star or rosette1 or plain1 according to fancy4 ,then place some of them upright all around1 rather tight1 and even with the top of the mould4 ,fill with cream1 well whipped1 sweetened1 and flavored with essence2 place the mould on ice1 and when ready to serve1 place a dish on it1 turn upside down1 remove the mould1 and serve as it is1 or decorated4 ,to decorate4--,make a paper funnel1 fill it with cream1 or icing 7sugar and white of egg worked71 then spread some all over the top according to fancy2 it is quickly done and is sightly4 ,the mould may also be filled with some other cream2 as creme legere1 creme cuite1 etc4 ,charlotte a la ,chantilly4--,it is a ,charlotte made exactly as the above one1 but filled with creme a la ,chantilly4 ,a la ,polonaise4--,make a sponge cake1 cut it transversely1 dip each piece in cream 7any kind7 and then place them back where they were so as to give the cake its original form as near as possible4 ,when thus re-formed1 cover it with cream1 dust with sugar1 and decorate with any kind of sweetmeats4 ,besides the sweetmeats that are placed here and there all around1 some currant-jelly may also be used to decorate4 ,place on ice for some time1 and serve4 ,italian4--,peel1 quarter1 and core about a quart of pears and set them on a rather slow fire1 in a saucepan with half a pint of white wine1 sugar1 cinnamon1 and lemon-rind4 ,while they are cooking1 line a mould as for ,charlotte ,russe1 remove the lemon-rind1 and fill the mould with the pears2 place it on ice when cool1 turn over on a dish1 remove the mould1 decorate with icing1 or cover entirely with apple-jelly1 and serve4 ,it is also made with genoise cake instead of sponge cake4 ,francaise4--,this is prepared and served like a ,charlotte ,russe1 with the exception that it is filled with blanc manger or fromage a la creme instead of cream4 ,of ,fruit4--,this is made of cherries or any kind of berries2 cherries must be stoned carefully4 ,dip the fruit in wine-jelly as soon as the latter is cool1 but not firm1 and line a mould with it4 ,by having the mould on ice it will be more easily done4 ,fill the mould with cream1 as for ,charlotte ,russe1 place on ice1 and serve as soon as congealed4 ,when the mould is taken from the ice1 dip it in warm water a few seconds1 place a dish over it1 turn upside down1 remove it1 and serve immediately4 ,a ,charlotte of fruit is sightly enough without decorations2 it requires some time to make it1 but it is worth the trouble1 being a handsome as well as a good dish4 ,another4--,line a mould as for the above4 ,put one ounce of gelatin in a bowl with about three tablespoonfuls of water and leave it so for about half an hour4 ,mix well together in a saucepan four yolks of eggs and three ounces of pulverized sugar1 add about three tablespoonfuls of milk1 and mix again2 set on the fire and stir for about three minutes1 add the gelatin1 stir again1 give one boil1 and put away to cool a little4 ,beat four whites of eggs to a stiff froth1 turn the above mixture into them1 mix gently again2 fill the mould with the whole1 place on ice till perfectly cold4 ,when cold1 turn upside down on a dish1 remove the mould1 decorate as the preceding one1 and serve cold4 ,cheese with ,cream--7,fromage a la ,creme74--,this is made in different ways2 sometimes with soft curds only1 or with curds and cream1 or with cream only when very thick4 ,gelatin dissolved in a little water may also be added4 ,the curds or cream1 or both1 are beaten with an egg-beater1 sweetened to taste with sugar1 and flavored with essence4 ,to make it more sightly1 when beaten and flavored1 it is moulded1 placed on ice to make it firm1 and then turned over a dish1 the mould removed1 and then served4 ,any kind of essence may be used to flavor it1 such as vanilla1 fleur d'oranger1 rose-water1 violet1 etc42 it may also be made with coffee1 tea1 chocolate1 orange1 lemon1 etc4 ,put a few drops of very strong coffee1 or tea1 or chocolate at the same time with the sugar and essence4 ,with orange or lemon1 rub them on a piece of sugar1 which you pound and use to sweeten the cheese4 ,three or more different ones may be made with a quart of curds2 for instance1 flavor one third of it with essence1 another third with coffee or chocolate1 and the other with orange4 ,the colors will be different also4 ,it is an excellent and refreshing entremets in summer-time4 ,cheese may also be flavored with pine-apple cut in very small dice and mixed with it instead of essence4 ,compotes1 or ,jams4--,how to make syrup for ,compotes4--,common ,syrup4--,put a pound of loaf-sugar in a crockery stewpan1 with a pint of water1 a wine-glass of brandy1 and a pinch of well-grated cinnamon2 set it on a slow fire1 boil gently for ten minutes1 skimming off the foam2 then take from the fire and let cool2 bottle it2 cork it well and keep it to use when wanted4 ,it may be kept for months in a cool and dry place4 ,stewed fruit of any kind is called either compote or jam4 ,they are first peeled and cored and then cooked with sugar1 water1 and sometimes cinnamon1 or cloves1 both in powder and according to taste2 also lemon-juice or rind to taste4 ,cinnamon agrees well with any kind of apples1 but is not liked by every one in every kind of fruit4 ,the fruits may be cooked and served whole1 in halves1 or quarters1 or mashed1 according to fancy and taste4 ,the proportions of water and sugar are also according to taste1 or according to the nature or state of the fruit4 ,sour apples require more sugar than sweet ones1 unripe berries require more also than ripe ones4 ,the preparation is very simple2 not being prepared to keep1 they are served as soon as cold4 ,they may be served warm1 but they are certainly not as good4 ,when there is not syrup 7juice7 enough1 pour some of the above over the fruit1 or some apple-syrup4 ,the peels and cores of the apples may be used to make syrup1 together with those of pears4 ,while peeling1 coring1 or cutting fruit1 drop each in cold water1 else it changes color and is unsightly4 ,when cold1 the compote may be put in a mould2 turn over a dish1 remove the mould1 and serve4 ,several kinds may be served on the same dish as well as one2 being of different colors1 the dish is more sightly1 and quite as good4 ,loaf-sugar is the best4 ,instead of cooking them with water1 etc41 as directed above1 put some syrup on the fire1 and as soon as it boils1 drop the prepared fruit in it1 and boil slowly till done4 ,of ,apples4--,quarter1 peel1 core1 and put apples in a stewpan with a gill of water for two quarts1 sugar and cinnamon to taste2 when done1 dish them1 pour the juice in the stewpan all over1 and serve cold4 ,if there is not juice enough1 add some apple-syrup4 ,of ,apricots or ,peaches4--,take two quarts of apricots or peaches and cut them in two1 remove the stones4 ,throw them in boiling water for two minutes and take off2 drop in cold water and take out immediately1 then skin them4 ,put about half a pint of water in a crockery pan or in a well-lined one1 and at the first boil put the peaches in1 with sugar to taste2 boil gently till done1 turn the whole over a dish1 and serve cold4 ,if there is not juice or syrup enough1 add a little common syrup4 ,of ,blackberries1 ,currants1 ,raspberries1 ,strawberries1 and other like ,berries4--,prepare syrup of sugar1 and when at the second1 third1 or fourth state1 throw the berries in2 boil from one to five minutes1 according to the kind1 take from the fire1 and serve when cold4 ,of ,cherries4--,cut off the stalks of the cherries about half their length1 wash well and drain them4 ,put them in a stewpan in which there is just enough syrup at the first degree to cover them2 boil slowly till cooked1 and serve4 ,of ,oranges4--,peel four oranges1 and divide each carpel without breaking it1 and then throw them in syrup of sugar at the fourth or fifth degree1 and boil slowly three or four minutes2 take from the fire1 let cool1 and serve4 ,of ,pears4--,peel the pears1 cut the stem half its length1 put them in a stewpan with a little sugar1 a few drops of lemon-juice1 a pinch of cinnamon1 and a little water4 ,set on a moderate fire1 and at the first boiling add two gills of claret wine4 ,simmer till cooked1 then put the pears only on a dish2 set the stewpan back on the fire1 add to the juice in it about the same quantity of syrup of pears or of syrup of sugar at the third degree1 boil fifteen minutes longer1 pour the whole on the pears1 and serve warm or cold4 ,of ,lemons4--,peel the lemons1 cut them in pieces1 remove the seeds1 and proceed as for that of oranges1 boiling a little longer4 ,of ,pine-,apple4--,peel and cut in slices1 put them in a crockery pan1 with a little water and sugar1 set on a good fire1 and finish and serve like apricots4 ,of ,plums4--,throw the plums in boiling water1 and take them out when half cooked2 put them in a crockery stewpan1 with a little water and a little sugar2 simmer till cooked1 place them on a dish1 pour some common syrup on1 and serve when cold4 ,of ,quinces4--,quarter1 peel1 and core the quinces2 throw them in boiling water for five minutes2 take out and drain them2 put them in a crockery stewpan1 with four ounces of sugar for every pound of quinces1 a few drops of lemon-juice1 a little water1 and a pinch of grated cinnamon2 set it on the fire1 simmer till cooked1 place them on a dish1 pour some common syrup on them1 and serve cold4 ,of ,chestnuts4--,roast about one quart of chestnuts1 remove the skin and pith1 lay them in a pan with half a gill of water and four ounces of sugar2 set on a slow fire1 toss now and then till the sugar and water are absorbed or evaporated1 turn over a dish1 dust with sugar1 and serve warm or cold4 ,a few drops of lemon-juice may be added just before dusting with sugar4 ,cold ,compote4--,wash strawberries and raspberries in cold water1 drain dry1 and place them on a dish4 ,pour boiling common syrup or boiling currant-jelly all over2 let cool1 and serve4 ,of ,cranberries4--,put one pint of water in a tin saucepan1 with six ounces of loaf-sugar1 the rind of half a lemon1 and set it on the fire2 boil down until1 by dipping a spoon in it1 it adheres to it4 ,then throw in it about one pint of cranberries2 boil about twelve minutes1 stirring now and then1 take off1 let cool1 and serve4 ,another4--,after having boiled ten minutes in the same way as above1 and with the same proportions of sugar1 cranberries1 etc41 take from the fire1 mash through a fine colander or sieve1 put back on the fire1 boil gently five minutes1 let cool1 and serve4 ,creams or ,cremes au ,citron 7with ,lemon74--,put one pint of milk in a tin saucepan with the rind of a lemon2 set on the fire1 and as soon as it rises place an iron spoon in it and boil gently five minutes2 take from the fire4 ,mix well in a bowl four ounces of sugar with four yolks of eggs1 then turn the milk into the bowl1 little by little1 stirring and mixing at the same time4 ,strain the mixture and put it in small cups2 put the cups in a pan of boiling water1 boil gently for about ten minutes1 and put in the oven as it is1 that is1 leaving the cups in the water4 ,the cups must not be more than half covered with water1 else the water will fly into it4 ,it takes from ten to fifteen minutes to finish the cooking in the oven1 according to the size of the cups4 ,take them from the oven when the creme is rather firm1 except a little spot in the middle1 and which you ascertain by moving the cups4 ,anyone with an ordinary amount of intelligence can make creams as well as the best cooks1 after having tried only two or three times4 ,when you know how to make one1 you can make fifty1 just by using different flavorings4 ,au ,cafe 7with ,coffee74--,the stronger the coffee the better the cream4 ,the most economical way of making strong coffee is3 when you intend to have cream with coffee for dinner1 put the first drops that fall1 when you make the coffee for breakfast1 into a glass2 put it immediately in cold water1 and as soon as cool cover it with paper1 which you tie around it with twine1 and use when you make the cream4 ,always use good fresh milk and fresh eggs4 ,as soon as the whites of the eggs are separated from the yolks1 put them1 together with the shells1 on ice1 and use the next day to clarify your jellies1 or to make icing1 etc4 ,a little care is a great saving in the kitchen4 ,put one quart of milk in a milk-pan on the fire and take off as soon as it rises4 ,while the milk is on the fire1 mix well together in a bowl eight yolks of eggs with half a pound of sugar1 and coffee to flavor2 then turn the milk into the mixture1 little by little1 stirring the while2 when the whole is thoroughly mixed1 strain it4 ,put the mixture in cream-cups1 place the cups in a pan of boiling water--enough water to half cover them2 boil slowly for about ten minutes1 put the pan and cups in a moderately-heated oven1 and take off when done4 ,it takes from ten to fifteen minutes to finish the cooking1 according to the size of the cups4 ,it is done when the whole is solidified except a little spot in the centre1 which1 by moving the cups1 will shake somewhat4 ,serve cold4 ,with ,burnt ,sugar4--,put two ounces of sugar in a small tin pan1 with a tablespoonful of water1 set on the fire1 and boil till burnt and of a light-brown color2 take off1 and put it in a stewpan with a pint of milk1 four ounces of white sugar1 a few drops of rose or orange-flower water2 boil ten minutes1 stirring occasionally2 take from the fire1 beat the yolks of two eggs1 and one entire1 put in the pan and mix the whole well1 then strain1 after which you put the mixture in small cream-pots for that purpose2 place them in a hot but not boiling bain-marie1 and as soon as it thickens take them out1 dust them with fine white sugar1 let cool2 place them on ice for about fifteen minutes1 and then it is ready to be served4 ,with ,chocolate4--,put in a stewpan and on a moderate fire six ounces of chocolate1 three tablespoonfuls of water1 three ounces of white sugar1 stir now and then with a wooden spoon till melted2 then pour in it1 little by little1 a quart of good fresh milk2 boil ten minutes1 take from the fire1 and mix in it one egg well beaten with the yolks of five others2 strain through a fine sieve1 put in cream-pots or cups1 place them in a hot but not boiling bain-marie1 take off as soon as it thickens1 dust with fine white sugar1 let cool1 place on ice for about fifteen minutes1 and use4 ,with ,orange4--,use orange-rind1 and proceed as for lemon-cream in every other particular4 ,with ,tea4--,proceed with strong tea as for cream au cafe in every other particular4 ,with ,essence4--,make cream au cafe1 with the exception that1 instead of using coffee to flavor1 you use a few drops of vanilla1 rose-water1 orange-flower water1 violet1 cinnamon1 etc4--any kind of essence1 to taste4 ,with ,cinnamon4--,beat well together in a bowl about an ounce of potato-starch1 a teaspoonful of cinnamon1 four eggs1 four ounces of sugar1 and milk enough to make a rather liquid batter4 ,turn the mixture into a mould1 which put into a pan of boiling water for fifteen minutes1 then place in the oven till cooked4 ,serve cold4 ,cuite4--,put two ounces of sugar in a tin pan with two eggs1 and mix well2 then add an ounce of flour1 little by little1 mixing the while2 then1 in the same way1 add also about a pint of boiled milk2 set on the fire1 stir continually till it turns rather thick2 take off1 flavor with essence to taste1 let cool1 and serve or use for filling4 ,frangipane4--,set one pint of milk on the fire4 ,mix well together in another pan three tablespoonfuls of sugar1 two of flour1 three eggs1 three macaroons crumbled1 and as soon as the milk rises1 turn the mixture into it1 little by little1 stirring and mixing the while2 keep stirring about three minutes2 take off1 add a few drops of essence to flavor2 turn into a bowl1 let cool1 and it is ready for use4 ,it may be made without the macaroons4 ,with ,almonds4--,make as the above1 with the exception that you use sweet almonds1 chopped fine1 instead of macaroons4 ,with ,hazel-nuts4--,proceed as above1 using hazel-nuts instead of almonds4 ,legere4--,mix well together in a tin saucepan five yolks of eggs and five ounces of sugar2 add four tablespoonfuls of milk1 and mix again4 ,set the pan on the fire1 and stir continually till it turns rather thick2 take off1 and add a few drops of essence2 turn into a plate or dish and let cool4 ,when cold1 beat five whites of eggs to a stiff froth2 have somebody to pour in the whites1 and1 while you are still beating1 about two tablespoonfuls of the cold mixture1 and stop beating4 ,then turn the rest of the mixture into the whites1 and mix the whole together gently2 do not stir too much1 but move round and round with a wooden spoon1 and it is done4 ,if it is stirred too much1 it may become too liquid4 ,it makes an excellent and light cream4 ,patissiere4--,beat four whites of eggs to a stiff froth1 and then mix about one ounce of pulverized sugar with them4 ,put four yolks of egg in a bowl with half a gill of milk1 and beat well till thoroughly mixed4 ,put in a saucepan about two ounces of pulverized sugar1 with a teaspoonful of potato-starch 7fecula71 and two-thirds of a gill of milk1 and mix the whole well2 then add the eggs and milk1 and beat the whole well with an egg-beater4 ,set the pan on a rather slow fire1 stir continually with a wooden spoon till it turns rather thick1 and then turn the four whites and sugar into the pan also1 little by little1 stirring the while1 and take off when thoroughly mixed4 ,as soon as off the fire1 add essence to flavor1 and about one-quarter of an ounce of gelatine1 dissolved in tepid water4 ,serve1 or use to fill when cold4 ,renversee4--,make cream with tea1 coffee1 or chocolate1 and instead of turning the mixture into cream pots1 turn it into a mould lined with burnt sugar2 place the mould in boiling water for about fifteen minutes1 place it in the oven to finish the cooking1 turn over a dish1 remove the mould1 and serve cold4 ,to line the mould1 put two or three tablespoonfuls of pulverized sugar in it2 set it on a slow fire1 and when the sugar is melted and turning brown1 move the mould round and round to spread the sugar all over2 then put the cream in it4 ,sweet ,cream4--,we mean here the oily substance which forms a scum on milk2 also called whipped cream4 ,it is used to make ,charlotte ,russe1 to fill meringues1 choux1 or cream-cakes1 etc4 ,put a pint of good thick cream in a bowl1 and if the weather is warm1 place the bowl on ice for half an hour1 then beat the cream with an egg-beater till stiff and thick4 ,if the cream does not become stiff after having beaten it fifteen or twenty minutes at the longest1 it is not good1 or it is too warm4 ,good cream may rise and become stiff in five minutes4 ,when beaten1 add to it about four ounces of pulverized sugar1 which you mix gently with it1 not stirring too much2 add also a few drops of essence to flavor4 ,if wanted very stiff1 add also1 after the sugar1 half an ounce of gelatin1 melted in a little tepid water4 ,when beaten and mixed1 if not used immediately1 it must be put on ice4 ,chantilly4--,it is the above cream flavored with fleur d'orange 7orange-flower water71 or with essence of violet4 ,ice ,cream4--,made with cream it is richer than with milk4 ,with eggs it is better and richer than without1 and those that advocate it without eggs1 either have no palate1 or do not know how to use them in making it4 ,the addition of starch1 fecula1 arrow-root1 flour1 meal1 etc41 spoils it4 ,the proportions are1 to a quart of milk or cream3 from four to six eggs2 from eight to fourteen ounces of pulverized sugar2 essence1 or chocolate1 or fruit-jelly to flavor and color4 ,our receipt is for six eggs and fourteen ounces of sugar to a quart of milk4 ,set the milk on the fire1 and when it comes to a boil1 mix well half the sugar and the essence with six yolks and three whites of eggs2 beat the three other whites separately to a stiff froth4 ,as soon as the milk rises1 take it from the fire1 put half the sugar in it and stir to melt it1 then turn the mixture into it also1 little by little1 beating the while with an egg-beater2 set on the fire1 and take off at the first boiling4 ,while on the fire it must be beaten gently1 as1 if it is allowed to boil1 the eggs may curdle4 ,as soon as off the fire1 mix the three whites with the rest1 beating with an egg-beater1 just enough to mix the whole well2 put in cold1 salt water to cool1 and then freeze4 ,the smaller the ice is broken and mixed with plenty of rock-salt1 the quicker it freezes4 ,custard4--,put four yolks of eggs in a bowl1 then sprinkle flour on them1 little by little1 stirring and mixing well the while with a wooden spoon1 and when the mixture is rather thick1 stop sprinkling flour1 but sprinkle milk1 and mix again in the same way till the mixture is liquid2 add sugar and essence to taste1 beat the four whites to a stiff froth1 mix them gently with the rest2 butter a mould well1 fill it about two-thirds full with the mixture1 and set in a warm but not quick oven4 ,serve as soon as out of the oven4 ,if intended to be served cold1 omit the whites of eggs4 ,fritters4--,these are made with every kind of fruit1 when ripe1 peeled and stoned1 or cored when necessary1 and according to the kind4 ,the fruit is used whole1 such as strawberries and the like2 or in slices1 such as apples1 pears1 etc42 or in halves1 like peaches1 plums1 etc4 ,it may be used as soon as prepared2 or may be soaked a few hours in a mixture of sugar1 brandy1 or rum1 and lemon-rind4 ,have batter for fritters made in advance1 and while you are preparing the fruit heat the fat 7see ,frying71 dip each fruit or each slice in batter1 drop it in the fat1 stir and turn over1 and when done1 turn into a colander1 dust well with fine white or pulverized sugar1 and serve as warm 7or rather as hot7 as possible4 ,even the best fritters served cold make a very poor dish4 ,besides fruit1 the blossoms of the acacia and those of the violet make the most delicate fritters4 ,with ,bread or ,pain perdu4--,set one pint of milk on the fire with two ounces of sugar1 and the rind of half a lemon1 stir now and then1 and when it rises add a few drops of essence to flavor1 then take off and soak in it slices of bread1 cut with a paste-cutter and about half an inch thick4 ,when well soaked1 drain2 dip them in beaten egg1 roll in bread-crumbs1 and fry and serve as fritters4 ,glazed ,fruit--,oranges glazed4--,oranges or any other fruit glazed1 when mounted in a pyramid1 is called croque en bouche4 ,peel the oranges2 then divide the carpels and free them from the pith1 and put them away in a warm place for a few hours2 they may be left over night4 ,cut very fine wire in pieces about eight inches long1 bend each piece at both ends1 forming a hook2 then run one end or hook through the carpel of orange1 and hang it on a stick placed on something horizontally4 ,in order not to spill any of the juice1 hook the orange near the edge of that part that was the centre of the orange before being divided1 and as the other end of the wire forms a hook also1 it is easy to hang it4 ,prepare syrup of sugar1 and when at the sixth degree take it from the fire1 dip each carpel of orange into it and hang it again1 and so on for the whole4 ,as soon as dry enough to handle them1 which takes hardly half a minute1 pull off the wire and serve when perfectly cold4 ,to mount them in pyramid is not difficult1 but requires time4 ,when they are cold1 prepare again the same syrup of sugar as above1 and take it from the fire4 ,while the sugar is on the fire take a tin mould1 a plain one1 larger at the top than at the bottom1 and slightly grease it with sweet-oil4 ,a convenient size for a family is1 seven inches high1 six inches broad at the top1 and only four inches at the bottom4 ,place one carpel of orange1 resting on the bottom of the mould1 along the side and the edge upward2 as soon as the sugar is out of the fire1 dip one of the two ends of another carpel into it1 the edge only1 and immediately place it as the first one1 and touching it4 ,the syrup being hot and liquid1 the two pieces will adhere2 do the same with others till you have one row around the bottom4 ,commence a second row as you did the first1 but this time the first carpel you place must be dipped in sugar1 in order to adhere to the first row1 and all the others must also be dipped so as to adhere not only to the first piece placed1 but also to the first row2 and so on for each row till the mould is full1 or till you have as much as you wish4 ,as soon as cold1 place a dish on the mould1 turn upside down1 and remove the mould4 ,you have then a sightly dish1 but not better than when served only glazed4 ,another way to make it4--,grease with oil your marble for pastry1 place the same mould as above over it but upside down1 that is1 the broader end down2 grease the outside also with oil4 ,then place the rows of carpels of oranges all around outside of it1 and in the same way as described above4 ,the croque en bouche is more easily made this last way1 but it is more difficult to remove the mould4 ,mould and fruit must be turned upside down carefully1 after which the mould is pulled off4 ,if the syrup gets cold1 it hardens1 and cannot be used2 in that state1 add a little water and put it back on the fire1 but it is difficult to rewarm it2 generally it colors and is unfit4 ,when that happens1 make burnt sugar with it1 or a nougat4 ,it is better and safer to make a little of it1 just what can be used before it gets cold1 and if not enough1 make some a second and even a third time4 ,while the sugar is hot1 and while you are dipping the fruit in it1 be careful not to touch it1 as it burns badly4 ,in glazing the fruit first1 some syrup falls in taking it from the pan to the stick2 place your marble board1 greased with oil1 under1 so that you can pick it without any trouble and use it4 ,chestnuts1 glazed4--,roast the chestnuts1 skin them well1 then hook1 dip1 and hook again on the stick as directed for pieces of oranges4 ,a pyramid also may be made1 and a sightly one it makes4 ,cherries4--,they must be picked with their stems1 and by which you tie two together with a piece of twine4 ,see that they are clean and dry1 and have two sticks instead of one1 placed parallel1 about two inches apart1 in order to prevent the two cherries from touching1 when hung1 as they would immediately adhere4 ,proceed for the rest as described for oranges4 ,pears4--,small1 ripe pears are excellent glazed2 peel them1 but leave the stem on1 and then proceed as with cherries in every particular4 ,strawberries or any other ,berries4--,the berries must be picked with the stem4 ,wash them in cold water1 drain1 dry1 or wipe carefully1 and then proceed as for cherries in every particular4 ,a more delicate dish than strawberries or raspberries glazed cannot be made4 ,grapes4--,when clean1 proceed as described for cherries4 ,plums4--,take plums1 well ripened and with the stems on1 and proceed as with cherries4 ,prunes4--,soak the prunes in tepid water1 and when dry1 hook them like carpels of orange1 and finish in the same manner4 ,currants4--,when clean and dry1 tie two clusters together1 and proceed as for cherries4 ,pine-,apple4--,cut pine-apple in dice1 and proceed as described for carpels of orange4 ,iced ,fruit4--,as a general rule1 the more watery the fruit the more reduced the syrup of sugar must be4 ,if it is not reduced enough1 small pieces of ice1 formed by the water of the fruit1 will be found while eating it4 ,the fruit must be ripe4 ,it is done also with preserved fruit4 ,it is impossible to tell exactly the degree or state of the fruit and syrup without a hydrometer4 ,the following preparation may be added to the fruit1 or to punch1 as soon as it begins to freeze2 it is not indispensable1 but gives it more body3 ,put one pound of loaf-sugar in a copper pan with two gills of cold water1 set on the fire1 stir now and then till it comes to a boil1 then boil till it is at the fifth state or #dc deg41 and take off4 ,beat four whites of eggs to a stiff froth1 flavor with essence of vanilla1 and turn the sugar into the eggs1 little by little1 but do not stop beating until the whole is in4 ,then move the mixture gently round with a spoon for about a minute1 and it is ready for use4 ,with ,peaches1 ,apricots1 or ,plums4--,the following proportions are for one pint of juice4 ,peel and stone the fruit carefully1 then mash it through a sieve into a bowl4 ,make one pint of syrup of sugar at #cb deg41 and when cold turn it into the bowl and mix it with the pint of juice1 add the juice of a rather large orange and a little of the rind grated1 mix again1 freeze as directed for ice-cream1 and serve4 ,with ,currants1 ,lemons1 ,oranges1 ,pears1 ,pine-,apples1 ,strawberries1 and other ,berries4--,proceed as for peaches in every particular1 except that you press the juice of the currants and berries through a towel instead of mashing them through a sieve1 and that you use the syrup at #dd deg4 for them also2 the others are peeled and cored or seeded4 ,with ,melons4--,proceed as for peaches1 except that you add to the mixture a little kirschwasser4 ,with ,preserved ,fruit4--,use the syrup at #cj deg41 and proceed as for peaches in every other particular4 ,iced ,coffee4--,make strong coffee1 and when cold mix it with the same volume of thick cream1 sweeten to taste1 freeze1 and serve4 ,iced ,chocolate4--,break in pieces about four ounces of chocolate1 and set it on a slow fire in a tin pan1 with two tablespoonfuls of water2 when melted take it from the fire1 add a gill of warm water1 and work it with a spoon for five minutes2 then mix it with the same volume of syrup of sugar at #cj deg41 freeze and serve4 ,the syrup is used when cold4 ,iced ,tea is made as iced coffee4 ,sweet ,jellies--,wine ,jelly4--,soak two ounces of gelatin in a gill of cold water for about half an hour4 ,put in a block-tin saucepan three eggs and shells1 three ounces of sugar1 one quart of cold water2 beat a little with an egg-beater to break the eggs1 and mix the whole together2 add also a few drops of burnt sugar1 same of essence1 rum1 according to taste1 from half a gill to half a pint1 then the gelatin and water in which it is2 set on a good fire1 stirring slowly with an egg-beater1 and stopping once in a while to see if it comes to a boil1 when1 stop stirring1 keep boiling very slowly for two or three minutes1 and turn into the jelly-bag1 which you do as soon as clear2 the process requires from two to three minutes4 ,while it is boiling take a few drops with a spoon1 and you will easily see when it is clear4 ,pass it through the bag three or four times1 turn into a mould1 put on ice1 and when firm1 put a dish on it1 turn upside down1 remove the mould1 and serve4 ,jelly ,macedoine4--,make the same jelly as above1 and pass it through the bag also2 put some in a mould1 say a thickness of half an inch1 have the mould on ice2 then1 as soon as it is firm1 place some fruit on that layer and according to fancy2 and1 with a tin ladle1 pour more jelly into the mould1 but carefully and slowly1 in order not to upset the fruit you have in2 continue pouring till you have a thickness of about half an inch on the fruit4 ,repeat this as many times as you please1 and till the mould is full2 vary the fruit at each layer1 and especially the color of the different kinds4 ,the color of the jelly may also be changed at every layer1 by mixing in it more burnt sugar1 some carmine or cochineal1 some green spinach1 a little in one layer and more in another4 ,any kind of ripe fruit can be used3 strawberries1 raspberries1 stoned cherries1 grapes1 apples cut in fancy shapes2 also peaches1 bananas1 etc4 ,cold ,wine-,jelly4--,put two ounces of gelatin in a bowl with a piece of cinnamon and a pint of cold water1 and let stand about an hour4 ,then pour over about a quart of boiling water1 and let stand about four minutes4 ,after that1 add two pounds of sugar1 the juice of three lemons1 a pint of sherry wine1 and half a gill of brandy4 ,stir to dissolve the sugar1 and turn the mixture into a mould through a strainer2 place on ice1 and serve as the above jellies4 ,souffles4--,put in a bowl four tablespoonfuls of potato-starch with three yolks of eggs1 one ounce of butter1 and a few drops of essence to flavor4 ,turn into it1 little by little1 stirring the while1 about three gills of milk2 set on the fire1 stir continually1 and take off at the first boiling4 ,stir continually but slowly4 ,as soon as cold1 beat three yolks of eggs with a tablespoonful of cold water1 and mix them with the rest4 ,beat four whites of eggs to a stiff froth1 and mix them also gently and slowly4 ,butter a mould well1 fill it about two-thirds full1 and bake in a warm but not quick oven 7about #cjj deg4 ,fahr474 ,besides being flavored with essence1 souffles may be flavored with coffee1 lemon1 orange1 etc41 according to taste4 ,generally1 souffles are served under the name of the object used to flavor them1 such as souffle au cafe 7souffle flavored with strong coffee71 etc4 ,they are all made in the same way as the above one1 with the exception that they are flavored with strong coffee as above1 and used instead of essence1 or strong tea1 chocolate1 etc41 or with a little jelly of different fruit1 or with roasted chestnuts well pounded1 instead of potato-starch1 etc4 ,a hundred different kinds of souffles can be easily made by following the above directions4 ,apples1 fried4--,peel and cut in small dice1 dropping them in cold water till the whole is ready4 ,then fry with a little butter till about half cooked1 when add a little water and sugar to taste2 finish the cooking1 take from the fire2 beat a yolk of egg with a teaspoonful of cold water and mix it with the apples2 serve warm4 ,proceed in the same way with pears4 ,peaches baked4--,cut peaches in two1 remove the stone1 and with a paste-cutter cut some slices of bread1 and place them in a buttered bakepan with half of a peach on each1 the skin downward2 dust well with sugar1 put a piece of butter the size of a kidney-bean on each1 place in a rather slow oven2 dish when cooked1 turn the juice over1 if any2 if none1 a little syrup of pears1 and serve warm4 ,do the same with apricots1 plums1 and slices of pine-apples4 ,the slices of pine-apples may be soaked in kirschwasser for twenty-four hours before using them4 ,prunes1 stewed4--,wash them in cold water if necessary4 ,soak them in tepid water for about two hours1 and set the whole on the fire2 boil gently till half done1 when add sugar to taste1 a gill of claret wine to half a pound of prunes1 and serve either warm or cold when done4 ,if the water boils away too much1 add more4 ,currants1 ,blackberries1 or other ,fruit1 for ,dessert4--,beat well the white of an egg with a little water2 dip the fruit in1 and roll it immediately in some fine-crushed sugar2 place it on a dish1 and leave it thus five or six hours1 and serve4 ,a more sightly and exquisite plate of dessert than a plate of currants dressed thus1 cannot be had4 ,besides all our receipts1 any kind of fruit may be served for dessert1 according to the season2 also any kind of cheese2 also fruits preserved in liquor4 ,berries with ,milk or ,cream4--,nearly every kind of berries1 when clean1 may be served with milk or cream1 and sugar to taste4 ,with ,liquor4--,they may also be served with brandy1 rum1 kirschwasser1 whiskey1 etc41 and sugar4 ,marmalades1 or ,preserves of ,fruits--,of ,apricots or ,peaches4--,boil two pounds of peaches for a minute1 take off and drop them immediately in cold water4 ,drain and skin immediately1 cut in two and remove the stone4 ,crack two-thirds of the stones and throw the kernels in boiling water2 leave them in till the skin comes off easily2 skin them well and cut them in small pieces1 lengthwise4 ,lay the peaches in a pan1 with about a pound and a half of sugar1 set on the fire1 boil about twenty minutes1 stirring the while with a wooden spoon2 a few minutes before taking from the fire1 put also the kernels in the pan2 then turn in pots or jars as soon as off the fire4 ,cover well when cold1 and keep in a dry and cool 7but not cold7 closet4 ,of ,plums4--,proceed as for the above4 ,of ,pears and ,quinces4--,quarter1 peel1 and core the fruit1 put it in a pan1 and proceed for the rest as directed for peaches1 except that you use sweet almonds instead of kernels4 ,of ,blackberries1 ,cherries1 ,currants1 ,raspberries1 and other like ,berries4--,wash the fruit in cold water1 drain1 dry1 and mash it through a sieve placed over a saucepan2 when the juice and pulp are in the pan add the same weight of loaf-sugar as that of juice1 which is easily ascertained by weighing the pan first2 set on the fire1 skim it carefully2 it takes about half an hour to cook2 then put in pots and let cool2 cut a piece of white paper the size of the inside of the pot1 dip it in brandy1 put it over the fruit1 cover the pots1 and place them in a dry and cool closet4 ,of ,grapes4--,select well-ripened grapes and pick the berries4 ,put them in a thick towel1 and press the juice out1 which you put in a copper or brass saucepan1 set on a good fire1 and boil till about half reduced4 ,skim off the scum1 and stir now and then while it is on the fire4 ,then add about half a pound of loaf-sugar to a pound of juice1 boil again fifteen or twenty minutes1 take off1 put in pots or jars1 cover or cork well when cold1 and put away in a dark and cool closet4 ,candied or ,comfited ,fruit4--,the best state of the fruit to be candied is just when commencing to ripen or a little before4 ,it must be picked in dry weather1 and be sound2 the least stain is enough to spoil it soon after it is preserved4 ,peaches4--,make a cut on the side of the fruit and remove the stone without bruising it2 then skin it carefully and drop it in a pan of cold water4 ,when they are all in1 set on the fire1 boil gently till they float4 ,there must be much more water than is necessary to cover them1 in order to see easily when they come to the surface4 ,then take them off carefully1 with a skimmer1 and drop them in cold water and drain4 ,when drained1 put them in a pan1 cover them with syrup of sugar after it is skimmed and clarified4 7,see ,syrup of ,sugar47 ,the syrup must be boiling when turned over the fruit4 ,set on the fire1 give one boil only1 and turn the whole into a bowl1 which you cover with paper1 and leave thus twelve or fifteen hours4 ,after that time1 drain1 put the syrup on the fire1 the peaches in the bowl1 and at the first boiling of the syrup1 turn it over the fruit1 cover the bowl with paper1 and leave about as long1 that is1 twelve or fifteen hours4 ,repeat the same process three times more1 in all five times4 ,the last time the syrup must be at the first state as described for syrup of sugar4 ,inexperienced persons will do well to try at first with a few fruits1 and go through the whole process1 after which it will be comparatively easy4 ,every one is awkward in doing a thing for the first time1 and does not do it well1 however easy or simple it may be4 ,that is the reason why societies of farmers make better preserves than other people2 they teach one another2 and besides1 no one is allowed to touch the fruit before having seen it done several times4 ,candied fruit1 as well as preserves1 get spoiled by fermentation1 if not cooked enough2 by moisture1 if kept in a damp place2 or by heat1 if kept in a warm place4 ,when the last process has been gone through1 leave the fruit in the bowl about twenty-four hours2 then put it in jars1 cover air-tight1 and put away in a dry and cool closet4 ,it may also be drained1 dried on a riddle in a warm place1 and kept in boxes4 ,a wooden riddle or screen is better than a metal one4 ,they may also be put in decanters1 covered with brandy or other liquor1 and corked well4 ,when preserved in brandy1 it is not necessary to remove the stone2 they may be covered with half syrup and half brandy4 ,plums4--,pick them just before commencing to ripen1 and cut the stem half way4 ,when clean1 but neither stoned nor skinned1 prick them around the stem with a fork1 drop them in cold water1 set on the fire1 add a gill of vinegar to three quarts of water1 and take from the fire as soon as they float4 ,drain1 put them in a bowl1 pour boiling syrup of sugar over them1 and proceed as directed for peaches1 that is1 cover and pour the syrup on them five times in all4 ,they are kept like peaches also1 either in jars1 dried1 or in brandy4 ,pears4--,after being peeled and the stem cut off half way1 they may be preserved whole or in quarters4 ,in peeling them1 they must be dropped in cold water with a little lemon-juice to keep them white4 ,they are picked just before commencing to ripen4 ,when ready1 put cold water and the juice of a lemon to every two quarts in a deep pan1 and drop the pears in1 set on the fire and boil gently till well done2 take off1 drain and drop in cold water1 which you change two or three times and without stopping2 then drain again1 place them in a large bowl1 and then proceed as for peaches4 ,they are kept like peaches also4 ,apples4--,proceed as for pears1 except that apples are cooked much quicker4 ,pine-,apples4--,peel1 slice1 and drop the fruit in cold water2 add a little sugar1 set on the fire and boil gently till done1 when drain and drop in cold water and drain again4 ,put them in a bowl1 and proceed as for peaches for the rest1 with the exception that they are kept in jars only1 and not dried or put in brandy4 ,chestnuts4--,skin the chestnuts and put them in cold water on the fire1 and take off when tender2 then remove the under skin or white envelope or pith4 ,place them in a bowl1 and proceed as for peaches for the rest4 ,oranges4--,drop oranges in boiling water and take off when the rind is tender1 and when a darning-needle can be run through it easily4 ,drain and drop them in cold water4 ,after two or three hours drain1 cut in slices1 and put them in a bowl2 then proceed as for peaches1 except that they are kept in jars only4 ,quinces4--,peel1 quarter1 and core quinces just before they commence ripening1 drop in boiling water2 drain them when done1 and drop them immediately in cold water4 ,as soon as cold1 take them off1 drain and put them in a bowl4 ,for the rest1 proceed as for peaches1 with the exception that they are only kept in jars1 but neither dried nor put in brandy4 ,to ,preserve in ,brandy4--,besides the dried fruits above described1 several may be preserved in brandy1 without being cooked and soaked in syrup of sugar4 ,cherries4--,pick them when fully ripe1 see that they are clean1 and put them in decanters with cloves1 pieces of cinnamon1 and entirely covered with brandy2 cover well1 but do not cork1 and leave thus two weeks1 at the end of which1 place a colander over a vessel and empty the decanters into it2 pass the liquor through a jelly-bag1 mix it with some syrup of sugar at the second degree1 turn over the fruit which you cover with it1 and cork the decanters well when perfectly cold4 ,keep in a dark1 cool1 and dry place4 ,do the same with strawberries and other like fruit4 ,fruit ,jellies--,with ,apples or ,quinces4--,peel1 core1 and cut in small pieces two quarts of good apples or quinces1 lay them in a stewpan with a clove well pounded1 and the juice of half a lemon2 cover with water1 set on a moderate fire1 and boil slowly till well cooked4 ,turn into a jelly-bag1 or a thick towel under which you place a vessel to receive the juice1 and when it is all out1 put it in a stewpan with three-quarters of a pound of sugar to every pound of juice2 boil to a jelly4 ,as soon as done put it in pots or jars1 let cool1 cut a piece of white paper the size of the inside of the pot1 dip it in brandy1 put it over the jelly1 cover the pot well1 and place in a dry1 cool closet1 but not too cold4 ,what remains in the bag may be used to make a compote4 ,watch the process carefully1 skimmer in hand1 to skim off the scum1 and stir now and then1 lest it should burn4 ,with ,apricots1 ,peaches1 ,plums1 etc4--,after having taken the stones out1 cut them in four pieces1 and proceed as for apple-jelly above in every other particular4 ,with ,blackberries1 ,currants1 ,grapes1 ,raspberries1 or other like ,berries4--,put the well-ripened berries in a coarse towel and squeeze all the juice out of them1 which you put into a stewpan with as many pounds of loaf-sugar as there are of juice1 and finish as directed for apple-jelly4 ,a little rum or essence of rose1 or any other1 according to taste1 may be added just before taking from the fire4 ,punch4--,put a saltspoonful of black tea in a crockery pot1 with one clove1 a little cinnamon1 and the rind of a lemon cut in pieces2 pour on the whole half a pint of boiling water2 let it remain thus five minutes1 and strain4 ,put a bottle of rum or brandy in a crockery vessel1 with twelve ounces of loaf-sugar1 set the rum or brandy on fire1 and let burn till it stops4 ,then mix tea and rum together1 and it is ready for use4 ,it is drunk cold or warm1 according to taste4 ,when wanted warm1 if made previously1 set it on a moderate fire1 in a tin or crockery kettle4 ,it keeps very well if carefully bottled and corked when cold4 ,another way to make it is to mix the rum or brandy with the tea without burning it4 ,it is warmed1 used1 and kept like the above4 ,the quantity of water may be reduced or augmented1 according to taste1 and so also the sugar4 ,another4--,grate the rind of a lemon and of two oranges on a piece of sugar1 the yellow part only1 and put it in a bowl with cold water to dissolve it2 then add two gills of pine-apple syrup1 essence of vanilla1 a pint of claret wine1 a pint of ,catawba1 ,sauterne1 or ,rhine wine1 a pint of ,champagne1 and a gill of brandy2 sweeten to taste2 strain1 put on ice for some time1 and serve4 ,another4--,put a pound of sugar in a bowl with a gill of water to dissolve it2 then add the juice of three oranges1 a little rind grated1 a bottle of ,champagne and one of ,catawba or ,sauterne wine2 strain1 place on ice for some time1 and serve cold4 ,roman ,punch4--,make iced lemon with one quart of juice1 same of syrup as directed1 then mix with it the juice of four oranges1 some lemon and orange rind grated1 and about three gills of rum 7or according to taste72 also1 if liked1 the preparation used for iced fruit4 ,then put the mixture in the freezer1 stir while freezing1 and serve4 ,it must not be frozen hard1 as it is better when served rather liquid and frothy4 ,it may be made with any other liquor1 if preferred4 ,punch is served either after the entrees or after the releves of fish1 according to taste4 ,,pastry4 ,of all the branches of the science and art of cooking1 pastry1 if not the most difficult1 requires the greatest care4 ,an inferior piece of meat makes an inferior dish1 but still it can be eaten without danger3 but inferior pastry can hardly be eaten2 or1 if eaten1 it is indigestible4 ,we will recommend our readers to be very careful about proportions2 it would not make a great difference for some kinds1 but for others1 putting too much or too little of one or more things would certainly result in failure4 ,it is very important to have good materials4 ,new flour is very inferior for pastry2 it must have been ground for at least three months4 ,always keep it in bags1 and in a dry and well-ventilated place4 ,sift before using it4 ,use fresh eggs1 good butter1 and good pulverized sugar4 ,the most important of all is the oven1 for1 supposing that you have used good materials1 have mixed them well1 if not properly baked1 every thing is lost1 materials and labor4 ,supposing that you have a good oven1 there is still a difficulty--and if the last1 not the least--the degree of heat4 ,some require a quick oven1 as puff-paste1 choux1 etc42 others a warm one1 and others a slow oven1 as meringues biscuits1 etc4 ,by putting the hand in the oven you can tell if it is properly heated1 but it requires experience1 and even practitioners are often mistaken2 therefore1 the easiest way is to have a thermometer in the oven4 ,it may be placed in the oven of every stove or range2 it is only necessary to bore a hole on the top of the range or stove1 reaching the oven1 and have a thermometer with the bulb inclosed in a brass sheath1 perforated1 long enough to reach the oven1 and of the size of the hole bored--the glass tube being above the top of the range4 ,pastes4--,there are several kinds of paste4 ,puff-paste is the most important2 it can be made very rich1 rich1 and less so2 and several hundred different cakes can be made with it4 ,small cakes are called petits fours4 ,the next in importance is the pate-a-choux2 then the paste for meat-pies1 sometimes called pate brisee4 ,puff-paste requires care1 but is easily made2 pate-a-choux must be well worked4 ,puff-paste4--,to make good puff-paste1 good flour and butter1 free from salt or sour milk1 are indispensable4 ,it must be made in a cool place4 ,take half a pound of good butter and knead it well in a bowl of cold water2 if fresh and not salt1 the kneading will take the sour milk out of it2 if salty1 it will remove the salt1 then put it in another bowl of cold water and leave it till it is perfectly firm1 and then use4 ,when the butter is ready1 put half a pound of flour on the paste-board or marble1 make a hole in it1 in which you put a pinch of salt1 and cold water enough to make a rather stiff dough4 ,it requires about half a pint of water1 knead well1 make a kind of ball with the dough1 and put it on a corner of your marble or paste-board4 ,take the butter from the water and knead it on the board1 to press all the water out of it4 ,give it the shape of a large sausage2 dredge the board slightly with flour1 roll the butter over only once1 as it must take very little of it1 dredge both ends of the piece of butter with flour also1 then by putting one end on the board and pressing on the other end with your hands1 you will flatten it of a rather round shape1 and till of about half an inch in thickness4 ,put it thus on the corner of the board also4 ,immediately after having prepared the butter1 take the dough and roll it down1 of a round form also1 and till large enough to envelop the butter in it easily4 ,remember that during the whole operation of folding and rolling the paste down1 you must dust the marble or paste-board with flour1 very slightly and often2 do the same on the top of the paste4 ,it is done in order to prevent the paste from adhering to the board or to the rolling-pin4 ,it must be dusted slightly1 so that the paste cannot absorb much of it1 as it would make it tough4 ,have a slab of marble or slate2 it is much easier than wood1 and cooler4 ,when the dough is spread1 place the butter right on the middle of it4 ,turn one side of the dough over the butter1 covering it a little more than half way2 do the game with the opposite side1 the dough lapping over that of the first side turned2 do the same with the side toward you1 and also with the side opposite4 ,dough stretching easily when pulled1 and contracting easily when let loose after having pulled it1 you have now still four corners of the dough to bring over the butter and in the same way as above1 and by doing which1 you give to the whole a somewhat round form1 and also have the butter perfectly enveloped in the dough4 ,place the rolling-pin on the middle of the paste1 horizontally1 and press gently on it so as to make a furrow2 do the same from place to place1 on the whole surface1 making furrows about an inch apart4 ,repeat the process again1 this time placing the rolling-pin right on the top of each elevated line2 and again1 repeat it a third time1 also placing the pin on each elevated line4 ,now do exactly the same contrariwise4 ,then1 roll the paste down1 gently1 evenly1 to a thickness of about one fourth of an inch1 and of a rectangular shape4 ,fold it in three by turning over one-third of its length toward the other end1 and thus covering another third of it2 fold or turn over the remaining third1 so as to cover the first third turned over4 ,roll it down again of about the same thickness as above1 but without making furrows in it2 give it also the same rectangular shape1 taking care to make the length of what was the width1 i4 e4 extending it the longer way in an opposite direction to that of the first time1 so that the ends will be what the sides were4 ,fold in three as before1 put it on a plate and set in a refrigerator for from ten to twenty minutes4 ,take hold of it again1 roll down as above1 fold in the same way also1 and put away for ten minutes4 ,you roll down and fold from four to six times1 not counting the time you envelop the butter in the dough4 ,in cold weather1 and when the butter is firm1 fold and roll only four times2 but in rather warm weather1 fold and roll six times4 ,if it is too warm1 it is of no use to try with butter4 ,puff-paste may be made without stopping2 that is1 without putting it away in a cool place for some time2 but it is better to let it rest2 it is lighter and rises better4 ,when finished1 it can be used immediately2 but it is better also to put it in a plate or dish1 cover it with a towel1 and put it in a refrigerator for from twelve to twenty-four hours4 ,although it must be kept in a cool place1 do not put it near enough to the ice to freeze4 ,it may be kept thus for two or three days4 ,puff-paste with ,beef-,suet4--,take half a pound of fresh beef suet1 the nearest the kidney the best2 break it in small pieces with the hands1 at the same time removing the thin skin and fibres as much as possible2 put it in a bowl of cold water and knead well till it is rather soft2 take it off1 mash and bruise it well on the paste-board with a rolling-pin2 knead it again like butter2 roll it in flour like butter also1 and proceed as above for the rest1 and with the same proportion1 weight for weight of flour and beef-suet1 but it requires more salt4 ,beef-suet being more firm than butter1 puff-paste can be made with it during summer1 but it must be eaten immediately1 being very inferior after a while4 ,the proportion of butter and flour may be varied4 ,weight for weight makes the real puff-paste1 and very rich4 ,if less butter is used it will not rise as much1 but is excellent nevertheless1 and is more handy to make different cakes1 such as short-cakes with fruit4 ,therefore puff-paste may be made with the following proportions3 to one pound of flour1 use fourteen1 twelve1 ten1 eight1 or even four ounces of butter or suet4 ,another way is to mix one or two eggs in the flour1 water1 and salt before rolling it down4 ,when eggs are used1 it requires less water4 ,envelop the butter in it in the same way4 ,allumettes4--,cut strips of puff-paste of any length1 about three inches wide and about one-fifth of an inch in thickness2 mix well together1 and for about three or four minutes1 one ounce of sugar and about half the white of an egg2 spread this mixture over the strips of paste1 so as to have a rather thin coat of it2 then cut the paste across1 so as to make small strips about one inch broad and three inches long4 ,bake in an oven at about #djj deg4 ,fahr4 ,feuillettes4--,roll puff-paste down to a thickness of from one-eighth to one-half of an inch in thickness2 cut it in pieces of any size and shape1 according to fancy with a knife or with a paste-cutter2 glaze the top only with egg1 and bake in an oven at about #dej deg4 ,fahr4 ,feuillettes a la ,conde4--,roll and cut the paste exactly as for the above2 then1 instead of baking it1 fry it in hot fat 7see ,frying72 turn into a colander when fried1 dust with sugar1 and serve as warm as possible4 ,pommees4--,line the bottom of a bakepan with puff-paste1 about one-eighth of an inch in thickness2 spread stewed apples over it of a thickness of one-quarter of an inch2 cover these with another thickness of puff-paste2 prick the cover all over with the point of a knife1 and bake in an oven at about #djj deg4 ,fahr4 ,when baked1 cut it in square pieces1 dust with sugar1 and serve hot or cold1 according to taste4 ,porte-manteaux4--,cut strips of puff-paste of any length1 about three inches broad1 and one-eighth of an inch in thickness2 spread on the middle of the strips1 and lengthwise1 some frangipane1 or stewed apples1 or any kind of sweetmeats1 of the size of the finger4 ,then turn one side of the paste over the frangipane or sweetmeats1 glaze the border with egg 7we mean by the border1 about half an inch in width1 measuring from the edge72 then turn the other side over it so that the glazing will cause the two pastes to stick together4 ,thus it will be only a little over an inch broad and about half an inch thick4 ,cut the strips across in small pieces about two inches long1 glaze the top with egg1 and then bake in an oven at #djj deg4 ,fahr4 ,tartelettes4--,roll some puff-paste down to a thickness of about one-sixteenth of an inch2 cut it1 with a paste-cutter1 of the size of small tin moulds1 and place the pieces in the moulds2 put about a teaspoonful of frangipane in each2 place two narrow strips of paste across each1 which strips you cut with a truckle2 bake in an oven at about #chj deg4 ,fahr4 ,tartelettes 7sweet74--,proceed as for the above in every particular1 except that you use any kind of sweetmeats or jelly instead of frangipane4 ,cake ,pithiviers4--,roll some puff-paste down to a thickness of about one-eighth of an inch2 cut it round and place on a baking-pan2 if the pan be square or rectangular1 cut a round piece that will go in easily2 cut a strip of paste about one inch broad1 glaze with egg the border of the paste in the pan1 place the strip all around1 and then glaze it also4 ,fill the middle with the following mixture3 pound four ounces of sweet almonds and mix them well with half a pound of sugar1 two ounces of butter1 four yolks of eggs1 essence to flavor1 and four macaroons chopped4 ,cut another piece of puff-paste round1 and of the same size as the other2 dust it slightly with flour1 fold it gently in four2 the piece then will have two straight sides and a circular one4 ,with a sharp knife make three cuts in each of the two straight sides through the four thicknesses of the paste1 and about half an inch in length4 ,make another cut through the paste also1 representing half of the figure #h1 right in the middle of the piece of paste1 commencing half an inch from the border of the circular side and in the middle of it1 and going toward the point1 so that when the paste is open there are sixteen cuts in it4 ,place the paste still folded on the paste and mixture in the pan1 the circular side on the border and the point right in the middle2 open it gently1 and the whole will be covered4 ,glaze with egg1 and put in an oven at from #dcj to #dfj deg4 ,fahr4 ,the same cake may be filled with a frangipane1 and prepared as the above for the rest4 ,rissoles 7also called ,fourres74--,cut round pieces of puff-paste about three inches in diameter2 wet the edge with water1 put a teaspoonful of compote or any kind of sweetmeat on one side of it1 then fold the paste in two1 so as to cover the sweetmeat2 pinch the paste around to cause it to adhere1 in order to envelop the sweetmeat2 you have then a cake of a semicircular shape4 ,glaze with egg1 bake in a quick oven1 dust with sugar1 and serve4 ,galette du ,gymnase4--,make puff-paste with half a pound of butter to a pound of flour1 and when done as directed1 knead it4 ,then roll it down to the thickness of about one-fourth of an inch1 cut it in strips of any length and about an inch and a half wide1 glaze with egg1 bake in a quick oven1 about #dbj deg4 ,fahr4 ,the two ends of the strips may be brought together and joined1 forming a crown4 ,the same galette is made with trimmings of puff-paste1 kneaded and rolled as above4 ,fanchonnettes4--,these are made with the same puff-paste as the galette above2 then cut it in round pieces1 place them on small moulds1 fill them with any kind of sweetmeats and frangipane1 with almonds1 half of each2 bake1 dust with sugar1 and serve4 ,instead of frangipane1 spread raisins over the sweetmeats1 or almonds1 peanuts1 hazel-nuts1 etc41 all cut in small strips1 lengthwise2 you make then an infinite number of different small cakes4 ,fans4--,make some puff-paste with equal weight of flour and butter1 fold and roll it down six times1 and put in a cold place4 ,leave it of a thickness of about one-quarter of an inch2 cut it with a sharp knife in pieces of a rectangular shape1 about four inches long and two broad1 which cut again in two1 across and from one corner to the other1 so that you make two pieces of a right-angled triangle shape4 ,place the pieces on their sides in a bake-pan1 on their sides1 far apart1 and bake in a very quick oven4 ,when done1 dust with sugar1 and serve4 ,vol-au-vent and bouchees for the day's use are baked early in the morning4 ,they are warmed in a slow oven just before filling them4 ,vol-au-vent4--,a vol-au-vent is made with puff-paste and filled with oysters1 meat1 etc41 when baked2 that is1 when the cake is baked and emptied1 it is warmed in the oven1 filled1 and served warm4 ,it is made of an oval or round shape4 ,when made small it is generally of a round shape1 but when made rather large it is generally of an oval shape4 ,when the puff-paste is ready to be used1 roll down to any thickness from one-quarter to three-quarters of an inch2 cut it with a sharp-pointed knife of the size and shape you wish1 then with the same knife cut what is called the cover1 i4 e41 make a cut all around1 about half an inch from the edge or border1 and about one-third through the paste1 leaving two-thirds of the thickness of the paste uncut4 ,this operation is called marking out the cover4 ,glaze the top of the paste with egg1 and bake it in a very quick oven1 about #ejj deg4 ,fahr4 ,in glazing1 be careful not to glaze the sides or allow any egg to run on the sides2 it would prevent the paste from rising4 ,some drawings may be made on the cover with the back of a knife1 according to fancy3 leaves1 for instance1 are very easily imitated2 it is only necessary to run the knife on the paste1 without cutting it4 ,when in the oven1 do not look at it for at least seven or eight minutes1 for in opening the door of the oven it might cause the paste to fall and even after that time open and shut the door quickly2 take off when properly baked4 ,when the oven is hot enough it takes about twelve minutes1 and even less time when the vol-au-vent is small4 ,take from the oven when baked1 and immediately run the point of the knife all around and in the same place as you did before being baked1 which place is well marked4 ,thus you cut off the cover and remove it1 then remove also all the unbaked paste that is inside of the vol-au-vent1 so that you have left what may be called a shell4 ,keep it then till the oysters or meat are ready to put in it4 ,about five minutes before the filling is ready1 put the shell or baked paste in a slow oven to warm it1 turn the filling into it1 enough to fill it entirely2 place the cover on the top1 and serve warm4 ,the unbaked paste removed from the inside is baked1 and makes an excellent cake1 though not a sightly one4 ,another4--,cut a piece of puff-paste the same as for the above one1 that is1 either round or oval1 and of the size you wish4 ,instead of marking a cover1 glaze the border with egg4 ,it is understood here by the border1 a space about three-quarters of an inch broad and all around it1 the space being measured from the edge toward the centre4 ,then cut a strip of puff-paste about three-quarters of an inch broad1 long enough to cover the place or space glazed1 which strip you put all around the first paste1 and you then have a border4 ,the place between the two pastes being glazed1 they will adhere in baking4 ,then also glaze the upper side of the border carefully with egg4 ,with a knife or fork1 prick the paste1 inside of the border only1 in ten1 fifteen1 or twenty places1 according to the size of the vol-au-vent1 and in order to prevent that part from rising as much as it would if not pricked4 ,bake in the same oven as the above--a very quick one4 ,a vol-au-vent thus made is deeper than the first one1 having two thicknesses of paste4 ,generally there is little or no paste 7unbaked7 to remove2 having pricked the centre1 it prevents it from rising and bakes it evenly1 but if there is any1 remove it4 ,a cover may be made by cutting a piece of puff-paste of the size of the vol-au-vent and baking it separately4 ,it may be decorated with the back of the knife as the above one1 and made convex on the top by baking it on a piece of tin4 ,it is warmed1 filled1 and served the same as the above4 ,a vol-au-vent is filled with the following3 ,with ,oysters4--,the quantity is according to the size of the vol-au-vent4 ,blanch one quart of oysters4 ,put two ounces of butter in a saucepan1 set it on the fire1 and when melted add a tablespoonful of flour2 stir1 and when turning rather yellow add also about a pint of milk1 and the liquor from the oysters2 stir1 and as soon as it turns rather thick put the oysters in1 taking care to have them free from pieces of the shell4 ,give one boil1 add salt to taste1 two yolks of eggs1 stir again1 turn into the warm paste1 place the cover on1 and serve warm4 ,with ,lobster4--,prepare the lobster as for bouchees1 fill the shell with it1 and serve warm4 ,with ,cod-fish4--,prepare fresh cod-fish a la ,bechamel1 fill the vol-au-vent or shell with it1 and serve warm4 ,with ,turbot4--,proceed as for cod-fish in every particular4 ,with ,eels4--,fill the vol-au-vent with eels1 oyster sauce1 or in poulette1 and serve warm4 ,with ,chicken4--,fill with a chicken or part of a chicken in fricassee or saute4 ,with ,livers and ,combs of ,chicken4--,prepare combs and livers of chicken in fricassee1 the same as a chicken1 fill the vol-au-vent with them4 ,serve hot4 ,with ,sweetbreads4--,cook the sweetbreads as directed1 and fill the vol-au-vent with them4 ,serve warm4 ,with ,veal4--,fill the vol-au-vent with veal in blanquette1 in ragout1 or in bourgeoise1 and serve4 ,it is generally filled with what has been left the day previous1 as it requires very little for a vol-au-vent4 ,with ,brains4--,it may be filled with brains of calf1 pig1 sheep1 or veal2 prepared in poulette1 or stewed4 ,with ,rabbit4--,fill it with part of a rabbit saute4 ,it may also be filled with any other meat or fish1 according to taste1 and being cooked previously4 ,with ,fruits4--,fill the vol-au-vent with any kind of stewed fruit1 jelly1 sweetmeats1 etc4 ,it may be only filled1 or the fruit may be dressed in pyramid inside of it4 ,bouchees4--,bouchees1 or petites bouchees1 as they are sometimes called1 are small1 round vol-au-vent1 served warm4 ,they are also called bouchees de dames and petites bouchees4 ,roll puff-paste down to a thickness of about one-quarter of an inch1 cut it with a paste-cutter of any size1 mark the cover1 and bake in an oven at about #dej deg4 ,fahr4 ,a good size is about three inches in diameter4 ,when cut1 take another paste-cutter about two inches in diameter1 place it on the piece of paste2 press on it just enough to mark the place where it was1 but not enough to cut the paste1 remove it and then the cover is marked2 that is1 you have a circle on the top of the paste1 half an inch from the edge all around4 ,glaze with egg and bake4 ,make one for each person4 ,immediately on taking them from the oven1 cut off the cover with a sharp-pointed knife4 ,that is easily done2 it is only necessary to follow the mark made with the paste-cutter1 which is just as visible as before baking4 ,remove the cover and then carefully take out some unbaked paste inside of the bouchee1 fill with lobster prepared as directed below1 put the cover on1 and serve as warm as possible4 ,the ,filling4--,cut some flesh of boiled lobster in dice4 ,put two ounces of butter in a saucepan and set it on the fire2 when melted1 add a tablespoonful of flour1 stir for about one minute1 and add also broth 7the quantity must be according to the number of bouchees1 but we will give here the quantity necessary for five or six bouchees71 about three gills1 also salt1 pepper1 then the cut lobster2 stir now and then for five or six minutes1 and use4 ,of ,oysters4--,prepare1 fill and serve exactly as the above1 except that you fill with oysters prepared as for vol-au-vent1 instead of filling with lobster4 ,of ,cod-fish4--,fill the bouchees with cod-fish1 prepared a la ,bechamel1 and serve warm4 ,of ,eels4--,have some eels prepared either in poulette or oyster-sauce1 fill the bouchees1 and serve warm4 ,of ,turbot4--,it is filled with turbot a la creme or a la ,bechamel4 ,it may also be filled with any kind of fish1 prepared a la ,bechamel1 a la creme1 in white sauce1 oyster-sauce1 etc4 ,of ,truffles4--,cut the white flesh of a chicken in dice1 prepare it as a chicken saute1 using truffles but no mushrooms1 fill the bouchees with it and serve warm4 ,of ,puree of ,chicken1 or ,bouchees de ,dames4--,it is filled with some puree of chicken1 and served as warm as possible4 ,do the same with a puree of game4 ,of ,bobolink4--,prepare and clean twelve bobolinks as directed for birds1 put a teaspoonful of truffles1 cut in small dice1 in each bird1 for stuffing2 sew the incision1 and bake or roast the birds4 ,put each bird in a bouchee1 and serve warm4 ,a more delicate dish cannot be made4 ,the same may be done with any kind of small bird4 ,bouchees are generally served on a napkin and on a dish1 in pyramid4 ,pate a choux4--,weigh four ounces of flour1 to which add half a teaspoonful of sugar4 ,put two gills of cold water in a tin saucepan with two ounces of butter1 and set it on the fire1 stir a little with a wooden spoon to melt the butter before the water boils4 ,at the first boiling of the water1 throw into it the four ounces of flour and stir very fast with the spoon1 holding the pan fast with the left hand4 ,as soon as the whole is thoroughly mixed1 take from the fire1 but continue stirring for about fifteen or twenty seconds4 ,it takes hardly half a minute from the time the flour is dropped in the pan to that when taken from the fire4 ,the quicker it is done1 the better4 ,when properly done1 nothing at all sticks to the pan1 and by touching it with the finger it feels as soft as velvet1 and does not adhere to it at all4 ,let it stand two or three minutes1 then mix well with it1 by means of a spoon1 one egg2 then another1 and so on2 in all four4 ,it takes some time and work to mix the eggs1 especially to mix the first one1 the paste being rather stiff4 ,they are added one at a time1 in order to mix them better4 ,if the eggs are small1 add half of one or one more4 ,to use only half a one1 it is necessary to beat it first4 ,let the paste stand half an hour1 stir again a little1 and use4 ,if it is left standing for some time and is found rather dry1 add a little egg1 which mix1 and then use4 ,beignets ,souffles--7also called ,pets de ,nonne74--,make some pate a choux2 take a small tablespoonful of it1 holding the spoon with the left hand1 and with the forefinger of the right cause the paste to fall in hot fat on the fire 7see ,frying71 turn over and over again till fried1 then turn into a colander1 dust with sugar1 and serve hot4 ,in frying1 the paste will swell four or five times its size1 and by dropping it carefully and as nearly of a round shape as possible1 the cakes will be nearly round when done4 ,choux or ,cream ,cakes4--,make some pate a choux3 have a buttered bakepan1 and drop the paste upon it in the same way as you drop the beignets above2 glaze with egg1 and bake in an oven at about #chj deg4 ,fahr4 ,when baked and cold1 make a cut on one side1 about two-thirds through1 the cut to be horizontal1 a little above the middle1 then1 by raising the top a little1 fill the cake1 which is hollow1 with one of the following creams3 whipped1 ,chantilly1 cuite1 frangipane1 or legere2 dust with sugar1 and serve4 ,the same1 with ,almonds4--,blanch sweet almonds and cut them in small strips1 lengthwise2 then1 when the choux are in the bakepan and glazed with egg1 spread the almonds all over1 bake1 fill1 and serve as the above4 ,saint ,honore4--,make some pate a choux4 ,then put four tablespoonfuls of flour on the paste-board with two of sugar1 one egg1 one ounce of butter1 salt1 and a pinch of cinnamon2 mix and knead the whole well2 roll the paste down to a thickness of about one quarter of an inch and place it in a bakepan4 ,put a dessert-plate upside down on the paste1 and cut it all around the plate with a knife2 remove what is cut off and also the plate4 ,spread some pate a choux1 about a teaspoonful1 all over the paste left in the bakepan1 about one-sixteenth of an inch in thickness2 put some of it also in the pastry-bag1 and by squeezing it out1 make a border with it about the size of the finger2 prick the middle of the paste in about a dozen places with a fork and inside of the border2 glaze the border with egg1 and then bake in an oven at about #djj deg4 ,fahr4 ,while the above is baking1 make very small choux 7about the size of a macaroon71 and bake them also4 ,when both are baked1 and while they are cooking1 make some creme legere1 fill the inside of the cake with it1 so as to imitate a sugar-loaf or mound1 about four inches in height1 smooth it or scallop it with a knife4 ,put two tablespoonfuls of sugar and two of water in a saucepan1 set it on the fire1 toss the pan occasionally to boil evenly1 and till it becomes like syrup4 ,do not stir too much1 else it will turn white and somewhat like molasses-candy4 ,it is reduced enough when1 by dipping 7not stirring7 a little stick in it and dipping it again immediately in cold water1 the syrup-like liquor that has adhered to it breaks easily and is very transparent4 ,it must be as transparent as glass4 ,as soon as reduced thus1 take from the fire and use4 ,dip the top of each small chou in it1 holding the chou with a small knife stuck in it2 place a piece of candy 7generally1 sugar-plums of various colors are used7 on the top of each chou2 place them apart and around the creme legere1 and upon the border of the cake1 with one a little larger than the others on the top of it2 serve cold4 ,this cake is as good as it is sightly4 ,eclairs4--,eclairs are also called petits pains or profiterolles au chocolat4 ,eclairs au ,chocolat4--,make some pate a choux as directed above1 and put it in the pastry-bag with tube ,no4 #a at the end of it4 ,force it out of the bag into a baking-pan greased with butter4 ,by closing and holding up the larger end of the bag and by pressing it downward1 it will come out of the tube in a rope-like shape and of the size of the tube4 ,draw the bag toward you while pressing1 and stop when you have spread a length of about four inches4 ,repeat this operation till the baking-pan is full or till the paste is all out4 ,leave a space of about two inches between each cake1 as they swell in baking4 ,bake in an oven at about #cgj degrees4 ,when baked and cold1 slit one side about half through1 open gently and fill each cake with the following cream1 and then close it4 ,cream3 put in a block-tin saucepan three tablespoonfuls of sugar1 two of flour1 four yolks of eggs1 and mix well with a wooden spoon4 ,add a pint of milk1 little by little1 and mixing the while2 set on the fire1 stir continually till it becomes rather thick1 and take off4 ,have one ounce of chocolate melted on a slow fire in half a gill of milk1 and mix it with the rest1 and use4 ,put one ounce of chocolate in a tin saucepan with a teaspoonful of water1 and set on a slow fire2 when melted1 mix with it two tablespoonfuls of sugar1 stir for a while2 that is1 till it is just thick enough to spread it over the cakes1 and not liquid enough to run down the sides4 ,a thickness of about one-sixteenth of an inch is sufficient4 ,the cakes may either be dipped in the chocolate or the chocolate may be spread over them with a knife4 ,serve cold4 ,eclairs au ,cafe4--,it is made exactly like the above1 except that you mix with the cream three tablespoonfuls of strong coffee1 instead of chocolate and milk4 ,eclairs au ,the4--,it is made like the preceding one1 with the exception that strong tea is used instead of strong coffee4 ,eclairs a la ,vanille4--,proceed as for the above1 but mix a teaspoonful of essence of vanilla in the cream instead of tea4 ,eclairs a l',essence4--,the meaning of eclairs a l'essence is1 that a few drops of any kind of essence are mixed with the cream instead of chocolate and milk1 and prepared and served like the others4 ,eclairs aux ,fraises4--,instead of filling the cakes with cream1 fill them with strawberry-jelly1 and for the rest proceed as for eclairs au chocolat4 ,eclairs aux ,groseilles4--,made like the above1 but filled with currant-jelly4 ,do the same with apple1 blackberry1 cherry1 grape1 peach1 pear1 plum1 quince1 raspberry jelly1 etc4 ,petits ,pains a la ,reine4--,eclairs are so called when filled with marmalade of peaches in which sweet almonds chopped fine have been mixed previously4 ,petits ,pains a la ,rose4--,like the above1 and by adding a few drops of essence of roses to the marmalade4 ,petits ,pains a l',essence4--,like the above1 with any kind of essence3 pink1 violet1 geranium1 etc4 ,biscuits in ,boxes4--,make some square boxes with sheets of white paper2 fill them about two-thirds full with the same mixture as for lady's fingers1 dust with sugar1 and bake in a slow oven2 serve cold4 ,with ,almonds4--,mix well together with a wooden spoon four yolks of eggs with four ounces of sugar 7pulverized71 add three ounces of flour and mix well again4 ,beat the four whites to a stiff froth1 and then have somebody to turn the mixture into them while you finish beating1 and then mix the whole gently but well4 ,it must not be stirred too much4 ,have two ounces of bitter almonds well pounded1 with a teaspoonful of sugar1 and mix them with the rest4 ,butter small moulds1 turn the mixture into them1 filling about two-thirds full1 glaze with egg1 dust with sugar1 and bake in an oven at about #cjj degrees ,fahr42 serve cold4 ,with ,chocolate4--,make some biscuits like the above1 omitting the almonds1 and flavoring them with a few drops of essence of vanilla4 ,when cold1 glaze them with chocolate1 the same as described for eclairs1 and serve4 ,with ,essence4--,make biscuits with almonds or without1 as the above ones1 and flavor them with any kind of essence1 or with orange and lemon rind grated4 ,glazed4--,when the biscuits are baked1 glaze them with icing1 and serve cold4 ,these are sometimes called biscuits a la royale4 ,of ,rheims4--,mix well in a bowl six yolks of eggs with six ounces of sugar1 with a wooden spoon4 ,add and mix with the above five ounces of flour and lemon-rind grated2 beat four whites of eggs to a stiff froth1 and mix them also with the rest4 ,butter small moulds1 turn the mixture into them1 and bake in a slow oven1 about #cjj degrees ,fahr4 ,these are often made of the shape of lady's fingers4 ,they are excellent eaten with wine4 ,with ,filberts4--,put ten or twelve ounces of filberts or peanuts in a mortar with a few drops of orange-flower water and about half the white of an egg2 when reduced to a paste1 mix well with it four ounces of sifted flour1 eight ounces of fine1 white sugar1 the yolks of two eggs well beaten1 and the whites of four eggs whisked to a froth2 when the whole is properly mixed1 put it into a well-buttered mould1 which place in a moderately-heated oven2 watch it carefully1 take out when cooked1 which is easily known by the color it assumes4 ,biscuits with hazel-nuts1 peach1 or other kernels1 may be made in the same way2 that is1 using them instead of filberts4 ,lady's ,fingers4--,mix well together with a wooden spoon four yolks of eggs and four ounces of pulverized sugar1 then add three ounces of flour and mix well again4 ,beat four whites of eggs to a stiff froth2 have somebody to turn two tablespoonfuls of the mixture into the whites as soon as beaten enough1 and which you mix with the egg-beater1 then turn the rest or the mixture in1 mixing gently with the wooden spoon4 ,this must be done rather quickly1 to prevent the whole from turning liquid4 ,put the mixture in the pastry-bag with tin tube ,no4 #a at the end of it1 squeeze it out in sticks about four inches long into a baking-pan slightly buttered and dusted with flour1 or on a piece of paper placed in the bottom of the pan2 then dust them with sugar1 and bake in a rather slow oven4 ,they must not change in the oven1 that is1 they must not spread or swell1 showing that the oven is too hot or too slow1 or that the mixture has not been properly prepared4 ,they must be like small sticks1 round on the upper side and flat underneath4 ,they are sometimes called biscuits a la cuiller4 ,they are used to make a ,charlotte ,russe1 or eaten with wine4 ,cakes4--,almond4--,blanch1 skin1 and pound well one ounce of sweet almonds and the same of bitter ones1 which you mix with eight ounces of pulverized sugar1 six of flour1 two eggs1 a tablespoonful of brandy or rum1 and a pinch of sugar4 ,when thoroughly mixed1 add five yolks of eggs1 mix and stir for five minutes1 then add also and mix half a pound of melted butter4 ,turn the mixture in small moulds1 well buttered1 and bake in a rather slow oven4 ,some almonds cut in small pieces may be spread over just before baking2 or1 when baked1 some icing may be spread over4 ,serve cold4 ,this is also called ,nantais cake4 ,instead of almonds1 use filberts1 hazel-nuts1 currants1 peanuts1 or raisins4 ,fourre4--,this is made with puff-paste and cream1 or puff-paste and different mixtures placed inside of it1 such as ,pithiviers cake and fruit-pies4 ,anchovy4--,knead four ounces of flour with two ounces of butter1 a little salt1 and a little water4 ,clean four anchovies and put them in vinegar for five minutes2 then cut them in small pieces1 put them in a bowl1 and cover them with sweet-oil2 leave them thus ten minutes4 ,roll the paste thin1 then place a little more than half of it on a tart-dish1 raising it all around with the thumb and forefinger2 cover the paste with the anchovies1 and these with the remainder of the paste1 after having cut it in square pieces2 spread some of the oil in which were the anchovies on it1 bake in a warm oven1 baste now and then with a little of the oil1 and serve warm4 ,apple4--,stew eight or ten apples and mash them through a sieve4 ,put them in a saucepan with about two ounces of butter and eight of sugar1 set on the fire for five minutes1 take off1 let cool1 and then mix with it five or six eggs1 one after another4 ,turn the mixture into a buttered mould1 which you place in a pan of boiling water1 then boil slowly about half an hour1 turn over a dish1 and serve warm or cold4 ,hard4--,put half a pound of flour on the paste-board and make a hole in the middle2 put into it three ounces of pulverized sugar1 three ounces of butter1 two eggs1 a pinch of cinnamon1 a few drops of essence1 and knead the whole well1 dust the board with flour1 roll the paste down to a thickness of about one-fourth of an inch1 cut it in pieces with a paste-cutter1 of any shape2 beat one egg with a teaspoonful of sugar and glaze the pieces with it2 with a piece of wood draw leaves or flowers on each1 and bake in an oven at about #cfj degrees ,fahr4 ,they are eaten cold at tea4 ,heavy or ,gateau de ,plomb4--,proceed as above with one pound of flour1 a pinch of salt1 one ounce of sugar1 four yolks of eggs1 one pound of butter1 half a pint of cream2 when rolled down as above1 fold in two or four1 and roll down again2 repeat the process four times4 ,then place it in a bakepan and put in a hot oven4 ,serve cold at tea4 ,milanais4--,put one pound of flour on the paste-board and make a hole in the middle1 in which you put half a pound of butter1 same of sugar1 two eggs1 a pinch of salt1 and a quarter of a gill of rum4 ,mix and knead to a rather stiff dough with cold water4 ,spread it and roll it down to a thickness of about one-eighth of an inch4 ,glaze it with egg1 dust with sugar and bake in a rather quick oven4 ,when cold1 cut it in two1 spread some compote of peaches or of apricots on one half1 put the other half over it1 cut in pieces according to fancy1 and serve4 ,rum ,cakes4--,these are made with sponge cake cut with a paste-cutter1 some sweetmeats or jelly is placed on the middle1 then it is dusted with pulverized sugar1 watered with rum1 and then placed in the oven for about two minutes4 ,these cakes have several names1 according to the kind of sweetmeat used4 ,savarin4--,put one pound of flour on the paste-board and make a hole in the middle2 put into it four ounces of sugar1 and make a hole again2 then put in the middle four eggs1 twelve ounces of butter1 one and a half gills of milk2 mix and knead the whole well2 then mix again in the whole four ounces of leaven prepared as directed2 butter a mould1 dust it with sweet almonds chopped2 put the mixture in it2 put in a warm place 7about #gh degrees ,fahr47 to rise1 and bake in an oven at #dcj degrees ,fahr4 ,it will take about two and a half hours to rise4 ,the mould must not be filled1 else it will run over in rising4 ,sauce for ,savarin4--,put four ounces of sugar and half a pint of cold water in a block-tin saucepan1 set it on the fire and boil till reduced about one-third2 then add from one-half to one gill of rum 7according to taste71 give one more boil1 and turn over the cake4 ,baste the cake with the sauce till the whole is absorbed by it4 ,serve warm or cold4 ,sponge ,cake4--,mix well together in a bowl six yolks of eggs with four ounces of sugar2 add four ounces of flour and mix again1 add also a few drops of essence1 then whisk six whites of eggs to a stiff froth and mix them again with the rest4 ,butter a mould1 put the mixture into it1 not filling it more than two-thirds full1 and bake in an oven at about #cbj degrees4 ,sponge cake may be cut in pieces and used to make a ,charlotte ,russe1 instead of lady's fingers4 ,apple ,dumplings4--,quarter1 peel1 and core the apples1 and cut them in pieces1 then envelop them in puff-paste with beef-suet1 boil till thoroughly done1 and serve warm with sugar1 or with apple or wine sauce4 ,it may also be served with sauce for puddings4 ,buckwheat ,cakes4--,make a kind of thin dough with tepid water1 yeast1 buckwheat flour1 and a little sugar and salt1 let rise1 and fry with butter4 ,serve hot with sugar1 or molasses1 or butter4 ,corn ,cakes4--,mix well in a bowl two eggs with two ounces of melted butter1 a pint of corn-meal1 salt and sugar to taste4 ,while mixing set milk on the fire1 and as soon as it rises1 turn it into the mixture1 little by little1 stirring and mixing the while1 and till it makes a kind of thick dough4 ,butter well a shallow bakepan1 put the mixture into it1 and bake4 ,crullers4--,mix well together and work with a wooden spoon1 in a bowl1 one egg with two ounces of melted butter and half a pound of pulverized sugar2 then add salt1 cinnamon1 nutmeg1 a few drops of essence1 and one pound of flour1 and mix again2 add also milk1 little by little1 stirring and mixing at the same time1 enough to make a thick batter4 ,divide the mixture in parts and fry in hot fat4 7,see ,frying47 ,doughnuts4--,mix well together in a bowl four eggs with half a pound of sugar1 add two or three ounces of melted butter and mix again1 then mix with the whole1 about one pound of flour and boiled milk enough to make a rather thick dough1 season and mix well with the whole1 nutmeg1 cinnamon1 and a few drops of essence4 ,cut in fancy pieces with a knife or paste-cutter1 and fry in hot fat4 7,see ,frying47 ,dust with sugar1 and serve hot4 ,muffins4--,mix well together on the paste-board one pound of flour and three eggs1 then add and mix again milk enough to make a thin dough1 a little yeast and salt4 ,put away to rise2 divide in parts and bake4 ,pound ,cake4--,take a large bowl and put in it one pound of melted butter and one pound of pulverized sugar1 and mix the two thoroughly together with a wooden spoon2 then add and mix well also with them1 three eggs previously beaten with a saltspoonful of nutmeg and cinnamon1 half of each4 ,when the eggs are mixed1 add also half a pound of flour1 mix well again2 then add six well-beaten eggs1 and mix2 then another half pound of flour1 a few drops of essence of rose1 half a gill of ,sherry wine1 a liquor-glass of brandy1 four ounces of citron1 and half a pound of comfited fruit1 chopped fine4 ,beat and mix as well as possible4 ,butter a mould1 dust it with fine bread-crumbs1 turn the mixture into it1 and bake in a warm but not quick oven4 ,it takes about two and a half hours to bake4 ,as soon as cold1 serve it4 ,it may be glazed with sugar1 or sugar and white of egg4 ,short ,cake4--,cut puff-paste1 made with a pound of flour and six or eight ounces of butter1 in square or round pieces1 bake2 when cold1 spread sweetened strawberries on1 then cover with another cake1 spread strawberries again on it1 etc4 ,strawberry-jelly may be used4 ,plum4--,mix well in a vessel a pound of sugar with a pound of butter1 and then again with eight eggs1 one at a time1 also half a pound of raisins1 half a pound of flour1 a little rum1 and a little yeast4 ,line a mould with buttered paper1 turn the mixture into it1 not filling it more than two-thirds full1 place it in a warm but not quick oven for nearly two hours1 remove the mould1 and serve hot or cold4 ,tea ,cake4--,put half a pound of flour on the paste-board1 and in the middle of it a pinch of salt1 half an ounce of sugar1 two eggs1 four ounces of melted butter1 and cold water enough to make a rather stiff paste4 ,knead well1 roll down to about a quarter of an inch in thickness2 cut it in pieces with a knife or paste-cutter2 moisten the top with water by means of a brush1 dust with sugar1 and bake in an oven at about #cgj degrees ,fahr4 ,serve cold4 ,viennois4--,make some biscuits in boxes1 and when cold1 cut off a little piece on the top1 in the centre1 which place you fill with peaches or apricots in compote2 put two together2 serve cold4 ,with ,jelly4--,proceed as above in every particular1 using currant or raspberry jelly instead of compote4 ,,meat-,,pies4 ,pates de ,viande4--,meat-pies are made in moulds without bottoms and which open in two1 or are made of two pieces joined and fastened together with two pieces of wire4 ,the size of the mould and that of the pie are according to taste4 ,a pie may be made and filled with a reed-bird1 or with a quail1 or a partridge1 or prairie-chicken1 or with a dozen of them4 ,we will give the receipt for one prairie-chicken4 ,pate of ,game4--,bone a prairie-chicken as directed for birds1 and cut it in about half a dozen slices or pieces4 ,grease the mould with butter and put it in a baking-pan4 ,put one pound of flour on the paste-board and make a hole in the middle2 place in it six ounces of butter1 one egg1 a pinch of salt1 and about one gill and a half of cold water1 and knead the whole well4 ,roll it down to a thickness of about one-quarter of an inch1 and of a rectangular shape2 fold in two1 and roll down again4 ,repeat this from six to twenty times2 that is1 till the paste is soft4 ,the last time roll it down to a thickness of one-third of an inch1 and give it as round a shape as possible4 ,dust the upper side slightly with flour1 fold in two in this way3 turn the side farthest from you on the other1 so that the side of the paste nearest to you will be somewhat round1 and the opposite one will be straight4 ,by pulling with the hands the two ends of the straight side toward you1 it will make it somewhat round also2 then1 take hold of the paste exactly in the places where you were pulling2 put it in the mould with the side nearest to you on the top2 open it gently1 and with the hands spread it so that the bottom and sides of the mould will be perfectly lined with it4 ,with a sharp knife cut the paste even with the top of the mould4 ,line the sides of the paste with thin slices of fat salt pork4 ,mix in a bowl one pound and a half of sausage-meat with two eggs1 salt1 pepper1 a pinch of cinnamon and one of nutmeg2 place a layer of this mixture about half an inch thick on the bottom of the paste2 then a layer of thin slices of fat salt pork2 one of slices of prairie-chicken2 again a layer of sausage-meat1 one of salt pork1 etc41 layer upon layer1 till the mould is nearly full1 finishing with a layer of sausage-meat1 and giving to the top of the pate a convex form1 but leaving a space of about half an inch unfilled all around1 so that the top of the pate will be about one inch higher than the sides1 and half an inch higher than the sides of the mould and paste4 ,the cover of the pate is made with the same paste as the bottom and sides1 or with puff-paste4 ,roll the paste down to a thickness of about one-eighth of an inch4 ,glaze the sides of the paste in the mould with egg2 that is1 the space 7half an inch7 left unfilled2 put the paste for the cover on the pate2 press it gently against the other paste with the fingers in order to cause the two pastes to adhere2 with a sharp knife cut off the paste even with the mould4 ,make a hole in the middle and on the top of the cover about one inch in diameter2 cut five pieces of paste about three inches square1 dust them slightly with flour2 place them one upon another on your left thumb1 keeping it erect2 then with the right hand take hold of the pieces1 bringing the edges together so that the top will form a ball2 with a sharp knife make two cuts across and through the five pieces2 form a kind of stem as if you were to imitate a mushroom with these pieces1 and plant the stem in the hole2 when baked it looks like a flower4 ,glaze the cover with egg2 cut strips of paste in different shapes with a knife or paste-cutter1 place them on it according to fancy1 and bake in an oven at about #cij degrees ,fahr4 ,the strips of paste may also be glazed with egg4 ,it will take about two hours to bake4 ,as soon as cold1 cut the cover all around and remove it2 fill the empty places with meat or calf's-foot jelly and put it on the dish4 ,chop some of the same jelly1 put some all around it and on the top2 cut some of it also in fancy shapes with a knife or paste-cutter2 place it all around the dish and on the top of the pate1 and serve4 ,the cut following represents a plain pie2 that is1 without any decoration1 and immediately after having removed the mould4 ,illustration ,another1 or ,rabbit-,pie4--,chop very fine and separately one pound of veal1 one of beef1 one of lean fresh pork1 three of rabbit or hare1 and three of fat fresh pork4 ,mix the whole well together and season with salt1 pepper1 cinnamon1 cloves1 and nutmeg1 all grated or in powder4 ,line a mould with paste as directed above1 put a layer of the mixture in the mould about one inch thick1 place on it slices of truffles1 if handy and liked2 then another layer1 truffles1 etc41 till the mould is full4 ,if filled without truffles1 it is not necessary to put layer after layer4 ,cover also as above1 and bake in a moderately heated oven1 about #cbj degrees ,fahr4 ,it takes from five to six hours to bake4 ,another1 or ,prairie-chicken ,pie4--,skin a prairie-hen 7or several7 and bone it4 ,it is not necessary in boning it for a pie to proceed as directed for boned turkey1 but merely to remove all the bones in the easiest and quickest manner2 you cannot spoil the flesh1 as it is to be chopped4 ,weigh the flesh when free from bones and skin4 ,weigh as much of each of the following3 ham1 salt pork1 and calf's liver4 ,grate the salt pork and chop the three others very fine1 and then pound the whole4 ,season with salt1 pepper1 cloves and nutmeg1 both grated1 a pinch of cinnamon and chopped parsley2 mix with the whole two or three eggs1 one at a time1 in order to mix better4 ,line a mould with paste as directed above2 line the paste with thin slices of salt pork1 fill it with the mixture1 and cover1 bake1 finish1 and serve exactly the same as the preceding4 ,for two prairie-hens it will require about three hours to bake4 ,slices of truffles may also be used2 they are mixed at the same time with the eggs and seasonings4 ,with ,cold ,meat4--,when the paste is placed in the mould as directed above1 line it with thin slices of salt pork1 then put a very thin layer of sausage-meat1 prepared also as above1 then fill with butcher's meat1 poultry1 and game1 having previously removed all the bones1 and cut the meat in strips2 the greater the variety1 the better the pate4 ,put a little of each kind of meat used in a mortar1 say from one ounce to a pound1 with parsley1 thyme1 bay-leaf1 salt and pepper2 pound the whole well and then mix with one egg1 half a gill of white wine1 or a liquor-glass of brandy1 to every pound of meat4 ,fill the hollow places with the mixture1 to which you may add a little gravy or broth if it is not liquid enough4 ,place thin slices of salt pork on the top1 cover with paste as described above1 cook and serve as above also4 ,meat-pies1 as seen above1 are made with every kind of meat2 with one or several kinds at the same time1 according to taste4 ,wines and liquors may be used1 it is only a matter of taste4 ,the cover may be placed with only a hole in the centre1 instead of decorating it4 ,by using in turn butcher's meat1 poultry1 and game1 an infinite number of different pates can easily be made4 ,terrines 7,terreen1 or ,tureen74--,a terrine differs from a meat-pie in this1 that instead of using a tin or brass mould and lining it with paste1 a terrine 7,french word for terreen7 is used1 and is only lined with thin slices of salt pork1 and closed with its cover4 ,it is filled1 cooked1 and served in the same way as a meat-pie4 ,timbale4--,the name timbale is given to a meat-pie when made in a straight tin mould1 lined as a terrine1 and covered with a tin cover4 ,a terrine or timbale keeps longer in winter than the pie4 ,pains de ,gibier 7,pains of ,game74--,this means1 loaves of game4 ,it is a terrine made with any kind of game1 of one or of several kinds1 with the exception that birds are boned and filled 7see ,directions for ,boning71 before placing them in the terreen2 also1 before covering the terreen1 place a piece of buttered paper all around1 so as to have it as nearly air-tight as possible when covered4 ,bake as above1 and as soon as out of the oven remove the cover2 put a piece of tin1 sheet-iron1 or wood on the top1 large enough to cover the meat1 but not the border of the terreen4 ,place some weight on it in order to press the meat down1 and leave thus over night4 ,the weight and piece of tin are removed1 the terreen is wiped clean1 the cover placed on it1 and it is then served1 or served on a dish4 ,it keeps very well in winter time1 and many are imported from ,europe1 especially those made like the following3 ,another4--,cut four ounces of boiled beef-tongue and one pound of truffles in large dice4 ,put about two ounces of salt pork in a frying-pan on the fire1 and when fried1 add about six ounces of the flesh of prairie-hen1 cut in pieces1 four prairie-hens' and four chicken livers1 eight in all2 stir1 and when turning rather brown1 add also chopped parsley1 salt1 and pepper2 stir again for two or three minutes1 and take off4 ,put in a mortar one pound of flesh of prairie-hen1 baked and chopped2 one pound and a quarter of fat salt pork1 and about four ounces of panade4 ,pound the whole well and put it in a large bowl4 ,then pound well also the six ounces of prairie-hen flesh and eight livers with twelve yolks of eggs and a wine-glass of ,madeira wine1 and put in the bowl also4 ,add to it the tongue and truffles1 and mix the whole well1 adding game-gravy1 or meat-gravy if more handy1 about a gill of it1 season to taste with salt1 pepper1 nutmeg1 and cloves1 grated4 ,bay-leaf and thyme1 well pounded1 may also be used1 if liked4 ,after being pounded1 the whole may be mashed through a sieve1 but it is really not necessary4 ,then place the mixture in one1 two1 or three terrines1 cook1 and serve as above4 ,another4--,take the flesh of six prairie-hens when cooked1 and pound it well4 ,pound also eight livers1 fried2 four of prairie-hens and four of chickens2 put flesh and livers in a saucepan with gravy1 set on a slow fire1 and as soon as warm1 add to it1 little by little1 and stirring continually1 about three-fourths of its volume of good butter4 ,when all the butter is in1 take from the fire1 mix one pound of truffles cut in dice with it2 put the mixture in one or more terrines2 cover1 bake1 and serve as above4 ,terrines and pains are sometimes made with poultry1 and in the same way as those of game4 ,fish-,pies4--,these are made in the same way as meat-pies1 using cooked fish instead of meat1 but putting fish only inside of the paste4 ,when done it is filled with coulis of fish instead of jelly4 ,serve as a meat-pie4 ,the fish must be free from bones4 ,fruit-,pies4--,pies are made with paste and fruit or vegetables4 ,the under-paste may be made of trimmings of puff-paste1 or of the paste hereafter described1 but the top is always made of puff-paste4 ,the paste on the top may cover the fruit entirely1 or it may be only strips running across1 according to taste and fancy4 ,the fruit is used raw or cooked previously1 according to kind2 if it requires longer cooking than the paste1 or if it requires to be mixed or mashed1 it must be cooked previously4 ,under-,paste4--,put one pound of flour on the paste-board with six ounces of butter in the middle of it2 also two ounces of sugar1 two eggs1 and cold water enough to make an ordinary paste1 neither too stiff nor too soft4 ,roll the paste down to a thickness of one-eighth of an inch1 spread it on a tin dish or bakepan1 buttered slightly1 raise the borders a little or place a strip of puff-paste all around it2 put the fruit in the middle1 then cover with a thin piece of puff-paste or place strips of it only over the fruit1 and bake in a rather quick oven1 about #cij degrees ,fahr4 ,the strips of paste are cut with a paste-cutter 7caster-like7 and placed across2 one strip may also be placed all around4 ,when trimmings of puff-paste are used for the under-paste1 when placed on the tin or bake-pan1 prick it in about a dozen places with a fork to prevent it from rising4 ,to place a border around the paste1 you have only to cut a strip of it about half an inch wide1 wet the paste with water by means of a brush1 that is1 the edge or place where you are going to put it2 then take hold of the strip1 place one end of it on the paste and run it all around till you meet the end1 cut it off and stick the two ends together by wetting them also4 ,when the border is placed1 then put the fruit in the middle2 if the fruit is not cooked1 it must be mixed with sugar and essence1 or cinnamon1 or nutmeg1 according to kind1 if cooked1 that is1 stewed1 or in compote or in jelly1 it is sweetened and flavored4 ,the following are used to make pies3 apples1 apricots1 cherries1 currants1 blackberries1 cranberries1 gooseberries1 grapes1 mulberries1 oranges1 peaches1 pears1 pine-apples1 plums1 quinces1 raspberries1 lemon1 rhubarb1 prunes1 whortleberries1 etc4 ,it is better to stone the fruit before using it4 ,pies are decorated in the three following ways3 #a4 ,when you use cooked fruit1 put a thin layer of rice 7prepared as for croquettes7 on the paste1 then a layer of stewed fruit2 then the strips over1 and bake4 ,two or three layers of each may be used4 #b4 ,when baked1 spread over the pie some syrup of apples1 of pears1 or syrup for compotes4 #c4 ,just before serving1 spread some creme legere on the top1 tastefully and fancifully1 by means of a paper funnel1 or with the pastry-bag4 ,tarts and ,tartelettes4--,these are small pies4 ,instead of using a tin dish or a bakepan1 you use small tin moulds1 such as for madeleines1 and proceed exactly as for pies4 ,mince-,pie4--,every thing used to make a mince-pie is chopped fine1 and the spices are used in powder4 ,prepare paste as directed for meat-pies1 and make it either with or without mould4 ,proportions3 to three pounds of beef add six pounds of beef-suet1 one pound of currants1 one of prunes1 one of raisins1 and one of apples1 the rind of two lemons1 two ounces of citron1 and one pound of any kind of comfited fruit2 nutmeg1 mace1 cinnamon1 cloves1 and sugar to taste2 also wine or brandy1 or both1 to taste4 ,bake in a moderately heated oven4 ,the fruits may be used candied or fresh1 the apples fresh or dried1 it is a matter of taste4 ,twenty kinds of fruits and meat may be used as well as three or four2 there are no rules to make a mince-pie1 since its compounds are not used to be tasted at all separately1 but as a whole4 ,pot-,pie4--,make a paste with one pound of flour1 two ounces of butter1 two ounces of beef-suet 7the latter prepared as directed for puff-paste71 a little salt and water1 enough to make a rather stiff paste2 roll it down to a thickness of about a quarter of an inch and fold it in three and roll down again2 repeat the process half a dozen times1 the last time leaving it rolled down and of the thickness above mentioned4 ,line the sides of a pot with it1 lay slices or strips of salt pork on the bottom of the pot1 then fill it with strips of meat1 any and every kind 7slices of potatoes may be added1 if liked72 season with salt1 pepper1 nutmeg1 and cinnamon2 fill with water or broth2 cover with some of the same paste2 cover the pan and boil gently till done4 ,when the cover of paste is laid on1 make a hole in the centre to let the steam out1 and to fill up with water or broth if it boils away4 ,run a sharp-pointed knife or a skewer through1 to ascertain when done4 ,serve warm4 ,proceed as above either for butcher's meat1 chicken1 and other domestic fowls1 or game4 ,puddings4--,puddings are made of several materials and in a hundred different ways4 ,some are cooked by boiling1 others are baked1 and some are both boiled and baked4 ,puddings for inhabitants of cities ought to be made as light as possible4 ,for persons working outside and at manual labor1 it does not matter1 because their food passes through the system in a short time4 ,it is very well known that the poorer class of ,americans eat too much pudding and pie4 ,many do it for economy1 others for convenience4 ,the former are mistaken1 and the latter are blamable4 ,puddings and pies cost more in the end than meat properly and carefully prepared4 ,we do not mean to do away with them entirely1 but we advise every one to do with puddings as with every thing else1 use1 but do not abuse4 ,pies1 cakes1 and sweetmeats1 are universally known to be poisoning to children1 and the mothers who give them are conscious that they are purchasing the momentary smile of satisfaction at the risk of after-sickness1 and perhaps of incurable disease4--,peter ,parley4 ,the above needs no commentary2 we only recommend it to the consideration of young mothers4 ,for ,convenience4--,we have taken the trouble to put questions about it to over three hundred mothers1 wives of mechanics or of employes at a comparatively small salary1 and we are sorry to say1 that more than ninety per cent4 gave us about the same answer--they make and cook cakes in one day1 enough to feed the whole family for three days1 to save the trouble of cooking every day4 ,we cannot see where the trouble can be for a good wife and mother to prepare her husband and children's dinner4 ,pudding-eating is an ,english custom2 but1 before following a custom of another country1 people ought to consider if that custom or fashion 7whatever it is7 has not been introduced into that country by necessity1 which is the case of pudding-eating in ,england and in some parts of ,holland4 ,in ,england1 where the fog is nearly perpetual1 the stomach requires to be filled with something heavy1 something that will stay there till the next meal1 and very often longer than that4 ,it is well known that in ,england farm hands1 or other persons working in the open air1 eat six times a day1 and have pudding at least three times2 they drink home-brewed beer1 which is very heavy1 and very rich also4 ,let anyone here1 in this pure1 clear atmosphere1 eat six times a day1 have pudding three times1 with a pint of home-brewed beer every time1 and see how he will feel in the evening4 ,we beg all1 who may doubt our observations1 to try the experiment4 ,pastry in general1 no matter how light it may be made1 lies heavier on the stomach than any other food1 and is very difficult of digestion4 ,there are thousands of persons that have never had any indigestion but of pastry4 ,children like pastry very much2 this is easily understood2 as their young stomachs digest very rapidly1 they crave food oftener than grown persons4 ,pastry being easier to have at any time than any thing else1 it is given to them2 and from habit in youth arises the liking when grown up4 ,the stomach1 being accustomed to it from infancy1 may digest it better1 but it is always at the expense of the whole system2 the stomach must work hard1 too hard in digesting it2 whence come dyspepsia1 weakness1 and finally consumption1 or debility1 or any other sickness of the same kind4 ,the cut below represents a pudding 7any kind71 made in a mould1 scalloped1 and hollow in the middle2 any kind of mould may be used for puddings4 ,illustration ,bread-,pudding4--,soak half a ten-cent loaf in milk for about an hour1 and squeeze it with the hands2 place the bread in a bowl and mix well with it a gill of milk1 three tablespoonfuls of sugar1 one ounce of citron1 cut rather fine1 four ounces of raisins1 four ounces of melted butter1 four yolks of eggs4 ,then beat the four whites of the eggs to a stiff froth and mix them with the rest4 ,grease a mould well with butter1 dust it with bread-crumbs1 turn the mixture into it1 and bake4 ,the mould must not be more than about two-thirds full4 ,about #djj degrees ,fahr4 is the proper heat for a bread-pudding4 ,it takes about forty minutes to bake4 ,serve with a sauce for pudding1 hot or cold1 according to taste4 ,cabinet ,pudding4--,a cabinet pudding is made in any kind of a mould and of any size1 with sponge-cake or lady's fingers4 ,butter a mould well2 if the butter is too firm1 warm it so as to grease the mould better4 ,slice some citron and cut it in lozenges or of any other shape1 according to fancy1 and place tastefully on the bottom of the mould2 place some raisins all around also4 ,it is not necessary to cover the bottom with them1 but have some here and there1 imitating flowers1 stars1 etc4 ,then put over them a layer of sponge-cake1 cut in strips of any length and about half an inch thick2 on this layer place some citron1 some comfited 7candied7 fruit of one or several kinds1 and all cut in dice1 also some raisins2 then another layer of cake1 some more fruit1 and so on1 till the mould is full4 ,after having placed the citron and raisins on the bottom1 it is not necessary to put the rest in with care or order1 but merely fill the mould with them and so that they are all mixed up4 ,set about a pint of milk on the fire and take it off as soon as it rises4 ,mix well in a bowl three ounces of sugar with three yolks of eggs1 then turn the milk into the bowl1 little by little1 stirring and mixing the while1 and pour the mixture over the cake1 fruit1 etc41 into the mould4 ,the above quantities of milk1 sugar1 and eggs are for a middling-sized pudding1 and it will be very easy to make more or less1 according to the size of the pudding4 ,the mixture must be poured over in sprinkling1 and it must nearly cover the whole within about half an inch4 ,it must not be poured too slowly1 for1 the cake absorbing the liquor pretty fast1 you would have too much of it if you were filling as directed above2 we mean filling till the mould is nearly full4 ,place the mould in a pan of cold water so that it is about one-third covered by it1 set on the fire1 and as soon as it boils1 place the whole1 pan and mould1 in an oven at about #chj degrees ,fahr41 and bake4 ,for a middling-sized one it takes about one hour4 ,when done1 place a dish over the mould1 turn upside down1 remove the mould1 and serve with a sauce for puddings4 ,with ,vermicelli4--,blanch four ounces of vermicelli1 drain and drop it in cold water and drain again4 ,while the vermicelli is cooking1 put about a quart of milk in a saucepan on the fire with two ounces of sugar and a piece of lemon-rind1 stir now and then to dissolve the sugar1 and as soon as the milk rises1 take it from the fire1 remove the lemon1 then turn the vermicelli into it1 put back on the fire1 add a tablespoonful of butter1 stir continually1 and when the vermicelli is well cooked1 take off1 mix well with the whole four eggs and sugar to taste4 ,turn the mixture into a well-buttered mould1 place it in a pan of boiling water1 boil slowly for ten minutes1 then place as it is1 pan and mould1 in a moderately-heated oven to finish the cooking4 ,it will take from fifteen to twenty minutes4 ,proceed as above with macaroni1 tapioca1 etc4 ,plum-,pudding4--,break with the hands1 in small pieces1 about twelve ounces of the soft part of good and well-baked bread1 not too fresh1 but not stale1 and grate it4 ,clean twelve ounces of raisins and currants1 half of each4 ,cut in small dice four ounces of citron and four ounces of candied orange-rind4 ,chop fine the rind of a lemon4 ,butter a towel slightly and dust it with flour1 slightly also4 ,take twelve ounces of good fresh beef-suet1 remove the fibres and skin as well as possible1 and chop it rather fine with three or four ounces of flour1 and which put in a large bowl4 ,mix with it seven eggs and half a pound of sugar4 ,it is believed by many that brown sugar is better than white1 but it is only a belief1 if not a prejudice4 ,add and mix again the bread1 the raisins1 and currants1 the citron1 and orange-rind4 ,having the whole thoroughly mixed1 add half a gill of ,french brandy or ,jamaica rum1 a little salt1 the lemon-rind1 half a gill of cream or a little milk1 and a little grated cinnamon4 ,place the mixture on the towel1 and tie it as fast as possible1 giving it a round shape4 ,drop the towel in boiling water1 and boil for from four to five hours4 ,some boil a plum-pudding as long as seven hours4 ,it may also be boiled in a mould for that purpose1 but it is easier in a towel and quite as good4 ,when taken from the water1 remove the towel1 cut a little piece of the pudding off to make it stand better on the dish4 ,the place cut off is generally where the towel was tied1 being the less smooth4 ,the cut following shows a plum-pudding boiled in a towel4 ,serve with a sauce for puddings4 ,the sauce may be served in a boat1 or spread all over the pudding4 ,when served the second day1 or cold for supper1 it is cut in slices2 some ,jamaica rum is poured over it1 then set on fire1 basting as long as it burns1 and serve4 ,it is generally burnt on the table1 but the rum may be poured over in the kitchen4 ,the cut below represents a whole one with rum around it and on fire4 ,illustration ,biscottes4--,put half a pound of flour on the paste-board and make a hole in the middle of it2 put in the hole four ounces of sugar1 one ounce of butter1 three yolks of eggs1 and a few drops of essence to flavor the cakes4 ,mix and knead the whole well with the hand4 ,when like dough1 roll it under your hands and bring it to a rope-like form of about three-quarters of an inch in diameter2 cut it in pieces about two inches long2 roll again with the hand so as to make a ball of each2 then roll again with both hands so as to give each piece a round1 elongated1 olive shape2 that is1 smaller at each end than at the middle4 ,put them in a baking-pan1 greased with butter2 glaze each piece well with egg and a little sugar beaten together1 then1 with a sharp knife1 which you dip in flour1 make a cut on the top and into each cake1 lengthwise1 about three-quarters through1 and bake in an oven at #cej degrees ,fahr4 ,serve cold4 ,it is an excellent cake for tea as well as for dessert4 ,with ,almonds4--,add to the above mixture one ounce of pounded almonds4 ,with ,filberts or ,hazel-nuts4--,add to the mixture for biscottes1 one ounce of filberts or hazel-nuts1 pounded well4 ,brioche4--,mix together on the paste-board1 one pound of flour1 six eggs1 one pound of butter1 four ounces of leaven prepared as directed1 and tepid water enough to make a rather soft dough1 then beat well4 ,the longer it is beaten the better1 and the lighter the brioche will be4 ,by beating we mean--take hold of the dough with the right hand1 raise it and then throw it with force on the board and in the same place where it was2 repeat that till it comes off your hand without any of the paste sticking to it4 ,put the mixture in a tin vessel1 set it in a warm place 7about #gh deg4 ,fahr47 for about two hours to rise1 and then put immediately on ice to cool4 ,when cold1 put it back on the paste-board1 cut off about one-fourth of it4 ,make a kind of crown with the larger piece1 but not a very large one2 let the hole in the middle be about three inches in diameter4 ,then give the other piece a rope-like shape1 about three-quarters of an inch in diameter2 place it over the crown1 giving it the shape of a star1 and bake in an oven at #dcj deg44 ,serve warm1 without sauce4 ,illustration ,baba4--,mix together and beat as for a brioche1 one pound of flour1 ten eggs1 one pound and a quarter of butter1 four ounces of raisins1 four ounces of citron1 four ounces of leaven1 about half a pound of different kinds of fruits1 preserved in syrup or candied1 all cut fine2 put to rise1 let cool1 shape1 bake and serve as a brioche4 ,a baba may be baked in a mould2 the cut on the previous page represents one4 ,croquignolles4--,put in a bowl four ounces of flour1 a teaspoonful of sugar1 a pinch of salt1 half a pound of butter1 four whites of eggs1 and a few drops of essence2 mix the whole well so as to make a very stiff paste4 ,then put the mixture on the paste-board1 and roll it in a rope-like form about half an inch in diameter2 then cut it in pieces about half an inch long1 glaze with yolk of egg1 dust with sugar1 and bake in a warm but not quick oven4 ,serve cold at tea4 ,galette4--,knead together half a pound of flour1 six ounces of butter1 two eggs1 and a pinch of salt2 roll it down to a thickness of a quarter of an inch1 put in a bake-pan in the oven1 and when nearly done1 take off2 mix well together one egg with a gill of cream and an ounce of butter1 while the galette is in the oven1 spread the mixture over it1 put back in the oven1 finish the cooking1 and serve cold at tea4 ,genoises4--,put in a large bowl six ounces of flour1 eight of sugar1 two eggs1 a liquor-glass of brandy or rum1 and a few drops of essence2 mix and stir the whole well for three minutes1 then add two more eggs1 stir and mix one minute longer1 add again four eggs and continue stirring one minute longer4 ,melt half a pound of butter in another bowl1 and mix with it about two tablespoonfuls of the mixture2 when1 turn into the other bowl and mix the whole well together4 ,butter a bakepan1 spread the mixture in it1 and bake in a rather slow oven 7about #cjj deg4 ,fahr474 ,when the top is well baked1 turn it over and finish it4 ,when cold1 cut the whole in strips about two inches long1 then again across so as to make pieces of a lozenge-shape1 and serve as it is or with a sauce for puddings4 ,the same1 with ,almonds4--,pound well four or six ounces of sweet almonds1 place them in the bowl with the rest1 and then mix1 bake1 and serve as the above one4 ,do the same with bitter almonds1 hazel-nuts1 peanuts1 filberts1 and raisins2 flavor with any kind of essence4 ,with ,chocolate4--,when the cake is cut in pieces1 glaze it as directed for eclair au chocolat4 ,with ,sweetmeats4--,when the cake is cut in pieces1 with a sharp-pointed knife1 cut off a part of each piece1 on the top and right in the centre1 so as to make a small hole1 which you fill with any kind of sweetmeat or with any cream1 and then serve4 ,when thus served1 they are called under several names4 ,macaroons4--,throw into boiling water for five minutes ten ounces of sweet almonds1 and two ounces of bitter ones2 skin them well2 put in a mortar1 and pound them to a paste1 adding a few drops of the white of eggs during the process4 ,grind well also a pound of white sugar1 with the quarter of a rind of lemon well grated2 then mix well together almonds1 sugar1 and the whites of two eggs4 ,make balls of any size with it2 put the balls on a piece of paper1 beat the yolk of an egg with half a gill of water1 and glaze the top of the balls with it by means of a brush2 put them in a slow oven2 it will take about fifteen minutes to cook them4 ,macaroons with ,chocolate4--,melt on a slow fire and in a tin pan three ounces of chocolate without sugar 7known as ,baker's chocolate72 then work it to a thick paste with one pound of pulverized sugar1 and three whites of eggs4 ,roll the mixture down to a thickness of about one-quarter of an inch2 cut it in small round pieces with a paste-cutter1 either plain or scalloped2 butter a pan slightly and dust it with flour and sugar1 half of each1 place the pieces of paste or mixture in and bake in a hot but not quick oven4 ,serve cold4 ,madeleines4--,mix well together in a bowl three ounces of sugar1 three of flour1 and two eggs1 then again one ounce of melted butter and a few drops of essence to flavor4 ,butter slightly small tin moulds1 dust them slightly also with flour and sugar1 half of each1 turn the mixture in1 filling the moulds only two-thirds full1 and bake in an oven at about #cdj deg44 ,serve cold4 ,the same1 with ,almonds4--,chop rather fine some sweet almonds1 and when the mixture is in the moulds as described above1 spread the almonds over them2 bake1 and serve as above4 ,do the same with hazel-nuts1 filberts1 peanuts1 or raisins4 ,meringues or ,kisses4--,put half a pound of pulverized sugar in a plate1 beat six whites of eggs to a stiff froth as directed1 then have somebody to sprinkle the half pound of sugar into the eggs1 and while you are still beating1 which must be done in two seconds2 stop beating and mix gently with a spoon1 not by stirring but by turning the whole upside down several times4 ,if it is stirred too much1 it may turn too liquid4 ,put the mixture in the pastry-bag1 with tin tube ,no4 #b at the end of it2 spread the mixture on paper in a baking-pan1 in oblong cakes about three inches long2 dust them with pulverized sugar1 and put in an oven at from #bbj deg4 to #bcj deg4 ,fahr4 ,it requires some time to dry them1 about one hour4 ,as soon as taken from the oven1 place one in your left hand1 the top downward2 press gently on the under side which is up1 with the first finger of the right hand1 so as to make a hollow2 put in that hollow twice as much cream as is necessary to fill it2 place another cake prepared alike over the cream2 so that the two will be united and kept together by the cream2 do the same with the rest2 place them tastefully on a dish2 dust them with sugar1 and serve4 ,they are generally filled with whipped cream1 but may be filled with creme legere or creme cuite4 ,they may also be filled with creme ,chantilly4 ,swiss ,meringue4--,instead of squeezing the mixture out and spreading it in oblong cakes1 make a crown of it1 then another and another1 four in all1 dust and bake in the same way2 place them on a dish1 one above the other1 and fill the middle of the dish with cream as above4 ,serve cold4 ,the mixture may also be placed on paper by the spoonful1 but they are not as sightly as by means of the pastry-bag4 ,zephyrs4--,proceed as for meringues as far as mixing the sugar with the whites of eggs1 when mix also with both a few drops of cochineal4 ,put the mixture in the pastry-bag1 with tin tube ,no4 #a at the end of it4 ,squeeze the mixture out and spread it on paper in a baking-pan1 in different shapes3 dentilated1 convoluted1 overlapping1 waved1 etc41 according to fancy1 about three inches and a half long4 ,bake in same oven as meringues1 and serve when cold1 as they are4 ,nougat4--,throw a pound of sweet almonds into boiling water for five minutes2 skin them well1 and when cool cut them in four or five pieces lengthwise2 then melt a pound of fine white sugar with two spoonfuls of water1 in a copper or crockery pan1 and on a good fire1 stirring all the time with a wooden spoon2 when well melted1 put the almonds in2 keep stirring about five minutes longer1 take from the fire1 add a little of the rind of a lemon well grated1 oil the mould1 put it on the corner of the range in a warm but not too hot place2 put the almonds and sugar in the mould1 and little by little take off when of a brown color1 turn on a plate1 remove the mould1 and serve4 ,pancakes4--,make a thin paste with one pound of flour1 four eggs1 two tablespoonfuls of sweet-oil1 one of ,french brandy1 a little salt1 the necessary quantity of lukewarm water and milk1 about half of each2 let it remain thus two or three hours at least2 then put about an ounce of lard1 butter1 or oil in a frying-pan1 and set it on a brisk fire2 when hot1 put some of the paste in it with a ladle1 spread the paste so as to cover the bottom of the pan2 fry on both sides1 place it on a dish1 dust it with fine white sugar on both sides1 and serve warm4 ,buckwheat and other pancakes are made in the same way4 ,waffles4--,make a thin paste with eight ounces of flour1 six ounces of pulverized sugar1 two eggs1 a few drops of essence to flavor1 half a liquor-glass of brandy or rum1 and milk4 ,warm and butter both sides of the mould1 put some of the paste into it1 close it gently1 set it on the fire1 turn over to heat both sides equally1 dust them with sugar when done1 and serve either warm or cold4 ,it takes hardly a minute for each with a good fire4 ,,bread4 ,it is next to an impossibility to bake bread in a small oven2 half the time the bread is too much or not enough baked4 ,in cities1 where good baker's bread can be bought1 it comes as cheap as it can be made at home1 if not cheaper1 and saves a great deal of time and labor4 ,it is not difficult to make good bread with good flour4 ,there are several ways of making and of using yeast4 ,some are better than others2 but many1 though differently manipulated1 bring about the same results4 ,the only difficulty is the baking of it4 ,bakers can almost always bake bread properly1 having large brick ovens4 ,if they do not bake their bread enough1 which is generally the case1 it is not because they cannot1 but because under-baked bread is heavier1 and people1 especially the poorer class1 buy it in preference to the other2 judging by the weight1 they think they have more of it for a certain sum of money4 ,under-baked bread is difficult of digestion4 7,see ,food47 ,the best bread is made with the best wheat-flour1 all that can be said by anybody to the contrary notwithstanding4 ,rye1 corn1 and barley bread are excellent1 and may be partaken of by those whose constitution1 occupation1 etc41 allow it4 ,in every thing1 bread included1 the people1 or what may be called the million1 are wiser than soi-disant philosophers2 and if oat-meal or ,indian-meal were better than wheat-flour1 they would be dearer4 ,to describe or discuss the innumerable methods of making bread would require several volumes4 ,we have perused carefully hundreds of them2 they nearly all differ theoretically1 but practically1 when practical 7which is not always the case71 they amount to about the same thing4 ,we think that the only difficulty1 if difficulty there be1 is in the use of the yeast1 the making of the same1 and the baking4 ,chemical processes for rising will never equal the processes of nature and time4 ,many bakers do not use the yeast properly1 their bread being sour or musty2 some sweeten their bread1 to disguise an inferior quality of flour1 or as an antidote to sourness or mustiness4 ,bread gets dry after a while1 and is inferior in quality and taste4 ,the lighter the bread the better1 although many do not think so4 ,the belief may come from the fact that the lighter bread is the more porous1 and therefore the quicker it evaporates and loses its taste4 ,warm bread1 besides being injurious to the teeth1 is difficult of digestion4 ,when perfectly cold1 let it stand in a dry place1 neither cold nor warm1 for one or two hours1 and use4 ,we give below the best methods of making bread--,french bread1 or rather good light bread1 for we do not see that it is more ,french than ,chinese or ,american1 as long as it can be made everywhere with good flour2 it is certainly the best for inhabitants of a large city1 and especially for those having a sedentary occupation4 ,let us apply the proverb to bread as well as to every thing else3 ,feed me with food convenient for me4--,bible4 ,mix well together one gill of good strong yeast with half a pound of flour1 so that it makes a rather stiff paste4 ,knead so that you shape it like a ball4 ,make two cuts with a knife on the top1 across and about one-quarter of an inch deep2 then place the paste in a bowl of tepid water 7milk-warm71 the cuts upward4 ,after it has been in the water for a few minutes it will float and swell2 let it float about two minutes1 when take off and use4 ,put six ounces of flour on the paste-board1 and make a hole in the middle2 put into it the yeast prepared as above1 tepid water enough to make an ordinary dough1 and salt to taste4 ,knead well1 shape according to fancy1 put in a warm place 7about #gh deg4 ,fahr47 to rise1 and bake4 ,it requires about six hours to rise4 ,another4--,wash and clean thoroughly half a pound of potatoes1 and then steam them with the skins on4 ,mash them well with half a pint of flour1 about half a pint of tepid water1 and half an ounce of salt4 ,when thoroughly mixed1 put away in a warm place 7about #gh deg4 ,fahr47 for one hour4 ,then add and mix with it half a pint of good yeast1 and put away in the same place for about nine hours4 ,it may take a little longer than nine hours or a little less1 but it is very easy to know1 and in this way3 after a while it will rise slowly and gradually for some time1 and then begin to fall2 as soon as it begins to fall1 mix a little tepid water with it and strain through a sieve2 throw away potato skins and eyes2 mix what is strained with two pounds of flour and tepid water enough to make an ordinary dough4 ,put it away again in the same place until it cracks on the top1 which will take place in about an hour4 ,then put six pounds of flour on the paste-board1 and make a hole in the middle2 put into it a little tepid water and the dough when cracked2 knead the whole well with water enough to make an ordinary dough1 salt to taste4 ,to knead it well1 it is necessary to raise the dough or part of it1 and then throw it back on the paste-board with force4 ,the more the dough is kneaded1 the better and lighter the bread4 ,then shape the loaves1 let rise1 and bake in a very quick oven4 ,to shape4--,divide the dough1 as soon as kneaded1 in as many parts as you wish to make loaves2 then knead each part1 one after another1 so as to make a kind of ball2 then1 by rolling and pulling it1 give it an elongated1 sausage-like shape4 ,a pound loaf can be made a foot and a half long1 as well as four inches2 it will only be narrower and thinner1 and will have more crust4 ,when the dough is thus elongated1 take a round stick or a small rolling-pin1 place it on the top of the dough1 right on the middle1 lengthwise1 and then press on it and roll just a little1 to and fro1 so as to make a kind of furrow in the middle4 ,have a towel well dusted with flour1 place the dough on it upside down1 that is1 the furrowed side under2 let rise as ordinary bread2 turn it into a pan1 but so that the furrowed side will be up 7the side that was down in rising must be up in baking72 dust the furrow well with rye-flour to prevent the paste from closing1 so that the top of the loaf will be concave instead of convex when baked4 ,another4--,steam half a pound of potatoes and mash them well2 then mix them immediately and while hot with about a pint of flour1 a quart of water1 and half a pint of good strong yeast4 ,leave the mixture six hours in a rather warm place1 then strain through a sieve1 pressing the potato-skins so as to squeeze all the liquid out of them4 ,immediately add to the strained mixture flour enough to make ordinary dough1 which you knead a little1 and let stand as it is from one to two hours and a half1 according to temperature4 ,knead then with it about six pounds of flour1 salt to taste1 and tepid water to make ordinary dough1 and leave it thus two hours1 then shape in the same way as the above2 put it to rise in the same way also 7it will take from one to two hours1 according to temperature72 dust with rye-flour1 and bake4 ,french bread may be shaped like other bread1 round or square2 it is just as good4 ,rolls1 or rather ,french rolls as they are generally called1 are made1 shaped1 and baked in the same way4 ,it is a mistake to call bread certain mixtures of flour1 soda1 and milk2 or flour1 milk1 and butter1 etc42 it is no more bread than a mixture of carbonic acid1 water1 alcohol1 molasses1 vitriol1 etc41 is wine4 ,no one can give a name to such a mixture except chemists4 ,,bills ,,of ,,fare4 ,dinner-,time4--,on account of the various occupations of members of the same family1 this is often the first and only time of the day that sees them all assembled4 ,it is the dinner that mostly supplies the waste that the system has undergone for twenty-four hours4 ,being taken after the day's work is over1 it gives to the stomach time to digest 7mind and stomach never working at the same time74 7,see ,food1 ,economy1 ,coffee1 and ,tea47 ,the dinner1 being the most substantial meal of the day1 requires more preparation than any other meal2 the bill of fare of it should1 therefore1 be made the day before1 or at least early in the morning4 ,it should always be made between the mistress or master of the house and the cook2 written and hung in the kitchen1 near the clock4 ,the first thing to put down is what may be left from the preceding day1 and also what may be in the larder2 then what is wanted in butcher's meat or poultry1 or both2 the fish or game1 or both1 and which1 with vegetables1 are according to the market4 ,it is then one of the duties of the cook to make a list of what is wanted as accessories2 such as flour1 eggs1 sugar1 spices1 etc4 ,besides the above1 it is also the duty of the cook to send the dishes to the table in their regular order2 for1 if the whole dinner is sent at once1 all the dishes have to be eaten at once also1 else the last get cold and are unpalatable1 or1 by mixing them1 they are rendered tasteless1 as the flavor of one neutralizes 7if it does not destroy7 the taste of another4 ,to make models of bills of fare is not difficult1 but to follow them is nearly impossible2 hardly one in a hundred would suit any one4 ,bills of fare vary according to the season of the year1 and therefore to the produce in the market4 ,we will try to give another1 and we think a better way of making them to suit everybody1 every purse1 and at any time4 ,a dinner1 no matter how grand1 is composed of three courses1 and seven kinds of dishes4 ,the first course comprises dishes of four kinds1 viz43 potages1 hors-d'oeuvres1 releves1 and entrees4 ,the second course comprises dishes of two kinds1 viz43 rots and entremets4 ,the third course comprises dishes of one kind1 the dessert4 ,the number of dishes of each kind is generally according to the number of guests4 ,it may also be according to the importance of the occasion for which the dinner is given2 to the honor the giver or givers wish to show the personage or personages invited2 to the amount of money they are willing to spend1 etc4 ,the following table shows how many dishes of each kind are to be served at dinner to a certain number of persons3 ---------------------------------------- --------------------------- ,for44#bdfajafbjcjdjejfjhjajj ,persons4 ,serve#aaa #b #b #b #d #d #d #f #h #h ,potages4 #bbb #d #d #f #fajajabab #af ,hors-d'oeuvres4 #aaa #b #b #b #d #d #d #f #h #h ,releves of fish4 #aaa #b #b #b #d #d #d #f #h #h of meat4 #bbb #d #d #d #h #h #habaf #af ,entrees4 #aaa #b #b #b #d #d #d #f #h #h ,rots4 #aaa #b #b #b #d #d #d #f #h #h ,salads of greens4 #bbb #d #d #d #h #h #habaf #af ,entremets4 #b #b #b #d #d #f #h ,large side pieces of ,releves ,entrees4 #b #b #d #d #f cakes4 #ddd #h #h #hafafafbdcb #cf ,plates of ,dessert4 ---------------------------------------- --------------------------- ,the above table shows the number of dishes1 but more than one dish of the same kind can be served2 for instance1 four kinds of potages1 releves1 etc41 are served for forty2 but two or four dishes of each kind can be served4 ,the size of the releves and rots should be according to the number of guests4 ,it is just as easy to select dishes for a small family-dinner as for a grand one2 two1 three1 four1 or more dishes can be selected2 for instance1 you select a potage1 an entree or rot1 or both1 one vegetable or a sweet dish1 or both2 and one or as many plates of dessert as you please4 ,have a bouquet on the middle of the table1 if possible1 or at least a basket of fruit4 ,flowers during dinner have the same effect as music after it2 they soften the manners1 and gently and sweetly gratify the senses4 ,to simplify and render the making of bills of fare easy1 we have divided the different dishes into seven parts1 each part being in the order the dishes of which must be served1 and representing the seven kinds of dishes composing a dinner4 ,by this means you select the dish or dishes which suit you1 and which you can procure in any or all of the seven parts1 and your bill of fare is made1 and more to your liking than any steward on earth can do4 ,order of dishes4--#a4 ,potages4 #b4 hors-d'oeuvres4 #c4 ,releves3 of fish1 and then of meat4 #d4 ,entrees3 beef1 mutton1 lamb1 veal1 fish1 poultry1 and game last4 #e4 ,rots3 of meat1 and then of fish4 #f4 ,entremets3 salads of greens1 vegetables1 eggs1 macaroni1 sweet dishes1 and cakes4 #g4 ,dessert3 cheese the first4 ,first part1 or ,potages4--,any kind coming under the head of potages or soups4 ,second part1 or hors-d'oeuvres4--,these are small dishes placed on the table as soon as the soup-dish is removed or even before1 and which are removed just before serving the sweet dishes of the entremets4 ,they are passed round after every dish1 on account of being considered more as appetizers1 as repairers of the natural waste of animal life4 ,very little of them is partaken of at a time2 they are anchovies2 artichockes1 raw2 pickled beets2 butter2 caviare2 cervelas2 raw cucumbers2 figs2 every kind of fish1 salted1 smoked1 pickled1 or preserved in oil2 every kind of pickled fruit2 horse-radish2 horse-radish butter2 melons2 broiled mushrooms2 olives2 raw and pickled oysters2 steamed potatoes served with butter2 radishes and butter2 sardines2 saucissons2 sausages1 salt and smoked1 but not fresh2 salted and smoked tongue2 tunny1 walnuts in salad4 ,third part1 or ,releves4--,releves are composed of fish and large pieces of meat4 ,a fish served whole is always a releve2 in pieces1 it is an entree4 ,pieces of beef1 mutton1 and pork1 roasted1 are always served as releves4 ,at a family dinner the releve is almost always a fish4 ,the other pieces of meat that are served as releves are3 bear1 buffalo1 boiled and corned beef1 leg and saddle of mutton1 quarters of lamb1 large pieces of veal2 also all vol-au-vent of meat and of fish1 bouchees and fish-pies4 ,fourth part1 or ,entrees4--,these comprise every dish of meat1 except poultry and game1 when roasted2 every dish of fish not served whole2 also pates de foies gras1 sour-krout1 snails1 meat-pies1 terrines1 pains of game and of poultry4 ,the dishes of meat mentioned in the releves may be served as entrees at a family dinner4 ,the order of the dishes is described above4 ,fifth part1 or ,rots4--,poultry1 game1 and fish4 ,at a family dinner1 lamb and veal are often served as roasted pieces1 especially at seasons when there is no game1 and poultry is scarce4 ,sixth part1 or ,entremets4--,the following are served as entremets3 all salads of greens2 all dishes of vegetables1 of omelets1 except four1 viz41 with bacon1 salt pork1 ham1 and kidneys4 ,also dishes of macaroni1 of rice1 eggs a la neige1 all sweet dishes 7sweet dishes are also served as dessert71 and cakes2 such as baba1 brioche1 genoises1 madeleines1 savarin1 and sponge-cake4 ,seventh part1 or ,dessert4--,the dessert comprises ripe fruit1 sweet dishes 7these are also served as entremets1 according to taste71 pastry 7except meat-pies1 terrines1 and pains71 salads of fruits1 and cheese4 ,the latter is always served the first 7see ,cheese74 ,after cheese1 there is no rule for serving the other plates of dessert2 it is according to each one's taste4 ,punch is served after the entrees or after the releves of fish1 according to taste4 ,early ,breakfast4--,we are of opinion that everybody ought to eat as little meat as possible1 and drink no wine1 beer1 or any other liquor at an early breakfast1 no matter what the sex or age may be1 except when prescribed by the physician in case of sickness1 debility1 etc4 ,the food may be selected from the following3 bread and butter1 eggs1 omelets1 fried fish1 fried vegetables1 sardines1 and fruit1 according to the season4 ,as for meat1 in case it should be eaten1 it ought to be cold1 such as fowl or veal1 cooked the day before4 ,muffins1 and other cakes or pastes1 served warm1 are very bad for the stomach and teeth4 ,the beverage ought to be either coffee1 with milk1 chocolate1 cocoa1 choca1 or cold water1 but do not by any means drink tea at breakfast2 it is too astringent4 ,although cold meat is not by far so injurious as warm meat for breakfast1 it ought1 nevertheless1 to be as little partaken of as possible1 and especially by the young4 ,late ,breakfast1 ,lunch1 ,tea1 and early ,supper4--,at these meals the following dishes may be served3 ,every dish served as a hors-d'oeuvre1 calf's head and feet1 bear hams1 head-cheese1 eggs cooked in any way1 omelets1 mutton chops1 veal cutlets1 fried fish1 ripe fruit1 boned birds1 ham1 cold meat of any kind1 oysters1 pate de foies gras1 salads of chicken1 or any other birds1 and of lobster1 sandwiches1 sardines1 fried vegetables1 sweet dishes1 and pastry4 ,late ,supper4--,this being the last meal taken before retiring1 persons should be careful about what they eat then1 especially those who take no bodily exercise1 or retire soon after it4 ,some are not aware that their rest depends nearly1 if not entirely1 on what they have eaten at supper4 ,the lighter the food the better2 such as fried fish1 sardines1 lait de poule1 bavaroise1 well-ripened fruit1 a cream1 a little iced fruit1 fruit-jelly1 prunes1 etc4 ,the gastronomical or hygienic rule to be observed in eating1 it will be seen1 is therefore1 after the soup and hors-d'oeuvres1 to commence with the heaviest or most substantial dishes1 and to finish with the lightest4 ,the rule is just the opposite for wines4 ,here we must commence with the lightest1 and end with those which contain the most alcohol1 and are consequently the heaviest4 ,,index4 ,allumettes1 #dac4 ,almonds1 #dd4 ,anchovy1 #add4 butter1 #ii4 cake1 #dbh4 salad1 #cec4 ,anise1 #af4 ,apples1 au beurre1 #cgh4 charlotte1 #cgi4 dumplings1 #dca4 flambantes1 #cgh4 fried1 #djj4 meringuees1 #cgi4 pie1 #ddj4 syrup1 #chj4 in compote1 or stewed1 #che4 fritters1 #cgi4 jelly1 #d4 pine-apple1 #chj4 with rice1 #cgd4 sweetmeats1 #chj4 ,apricots1 #af4 in compote1 #che4 jelly #djf4 salad1 #ceb4 iced1 #cig4 ,artichokes1 #cjf4 fried1 #cjf4 7,jerusalem71 #cjg4 ,asparagus1 #cjg4 fried1 #cjh4 en petits pois1 #cjg4 in omelet1 #cjh4 with cream1 #cjh4 vinaigrette1 #cjh4 white sauce1 #cjh4 ,aspic1 #bge4 ,baba1 #ddi4 ,bacon1 #af4 ,bain-marie1 #af4 ,bakepans1 #ag4 ,baking1 #i4 ,bananas1 #cic4 ,barley1 #gf4 lemonade1 #dd4 sugar1 #de4 ,bass1 #acb1 #ace1 #acf4 ,batter1 #cj4 ,bavaroise1 #de4 ,bay-leaf1 #ag4 ,beans 7string71 #cjh4 au jus1 #cji4 maitre d'hotel1 #cji4 in salad1 #cji1 #cej4 with onions1 #cji4 pickled1 #cec4 7,lima71 #cji4 au jus1 #caj4 7dry71 #caj4 maitre d'hotel1 #caj4 with ham1 #caa4 mutton1 #caa4 salt pork1 #caj4 in puree1 #abj4 stewed1 #caa4 ,bear-meat1 #bgg4 ham1 #bgg4 ,beef1 #afb4 a la mode1 #afc4 baked1 #afg4 in daube1 #afd4 roasted1 #afe4 with garnitures1 #aff4 decorated1 #afg4 stewed1 #afd4 fillet larded1 #afh4 with mushrooms1 #afi4 truffles1 #afi4 potatoes1 #afi4 tomatoes1 #afi4 quenelles1 #afi4 ,madeira sauce1 etc41 #afi4 en bellevue1 #agj4 ribs1 #agj4 with mushrooms1 etc41 #aga4 steaks1 #aga4 broiled1 #agb4 steaks with potatoes1 #agb4 water-cress1 etc41 #agc4 mushrooms1 #agc4 truffles1 #agc4 sautes1 #aga4 fancy1 #agc4 tenderloin1 #afh4 low cuts1 #aga4 boiled or cold1 #agd4 hashed1 #agg4 in croquettes1 #age4 miroton1 #agf4 salad1 #agg4 au gratin1 #agf4 with vegetables1 etc41 #age4 corned1 #agg4 en bellevue1 #agh4 brain1 #agi4 heart1 #agi4 kidneys1 #ahj4 liver1 #ahj4 tail1 #aha4 tongue1 #agh4 7smoked71 #ahc4 with sauces1 #ahc4 in hors-d'oeuvre1 #ahc4 bellevue1 #ahc4 tripe1 #aha4 broiled1 #ahb4 poulette1 #ahb4 stewed1 #ahb4 pickled1 #ahc4 ,beets1 #ag4 boiled1 #ag4 pickled1 #cec4 stewed1 #cab4 in salad1 #cej4 ,beignets souffles1 #dbb4 ,berries1 iced1 #cih4 preserved1 #djb4 with milk1 #dja4 liquor1 #dja4 in salad1 #ceb4 ,bichof1 #de4 ,bills of fare1 #dei4 ,birds1 #bgh1 #bgi4 preserved1 #df4 ,biscottes1 #ddh4 ,biscuits1 #dbf4 almonds1 #dbf4 chocolate1 #dbf4 glazed1 #dbf4 with filberts1 etc41 #dbg4 vanilla1 #dbf4 of ,rheims1 #dbg4 ,blackberries1 #ceb4 in compote1 #chf4 jelly1 #djf4 preserved1 #djb4 ,black-birds1 #bgh4 ,black-fish1 #acb1 #ace4 ,blanc-mange1 #chj4 ,blanc-manger1 #cha4 ,blanch1 #cje4 ,blanquette1 #bje4 ,blue-fish1 #acb1 #ace4 ,bobolink1 #bgh4 ,boiling1 #i4 ,boned turkey1 #bfj4 ,border of paste1 #bdd4 rice1 #cgc4 ,bouchees1 #dbj4 of fish1 #dba4 birds1 #dba4 oysters1 #dba4 lobster1 etc41 #dba4 ,boulettes1 #aag4 ,bouquet1 #dfa4 ,brain1 #bad4 ,braising1 #ah4 ,bread1 #ded-deh4 crumbs1 #df4 farce1 #aac4 pudding1 #dde4 ,breakfast1 #dec4 ,brioche1 #ddi4 ,broccoli1 #cah4 ,broiling1 #aj4 ,broth1 #fa-gj4 ,brown-butter1 #ajj4 ,buffalo1 #bgg4 steaks1 #bgg4 ,buckwheat cakes1 #dca4 ,bunch of seasonings1 #ah4 ,burnt sugar1 #dg4 ,butter1 #dji4 anchovy1 #ii4 lobster1 etc41 #aah1 #aai4 melted1 #aai4 scented1 #aai4 ,buttered paper1 #ah4 ,cabbage1 #cac4 a la creme1 #cac4 with apples1 #cac4 bacon1 #cac4 garniture1 #aac4 in salad1 #cdh4 sour-krout1 #cae4 stewed1 #cac4 stuffed1 #cad4 pickled1 #cec4 red1 #cad4 ,cabinet pudding1 #dde4 ,cafe au lait1 #ea4 noir1 #ea4 ,cake1 #dbh4 almond1 #dbh4 apple1 #dbi4 corn1 #dca4 cream1 #dbc4 currant1 #dbh4 filbert1 #dbh4 fourre1 #dbh4 hazel-nut1 etc41 #dbh4 hard1 #dbi4 heavy1 #dbi4 ,madeleine1 #deb4 ,milanais1 #dbi4 ,nantais1 #dbh4 ,pithiviers1 #dae4 plum1 #dcc4 pound1 #dcb4 rice1 #cgc4 ,saint ,honore1 #dbc4 ,savarin1 #dcj4 short1 #dcb4 sponge1 #dca4 tea1 #dcc4 ,viennois1 #dcc4 with jelly1 #dcc4 ,calf's brain1 #bad4 ears1 #bae4 feet1 #bae4 jelly1 #ec4 head1 #baf1 #bag4 en tortue1 #bah4 soup1 #hf4 heart1 #bah4 kidneys1 #bai4 lights1 #bbj4 liver1 #bba4 pluck1 #bbb4 sweetbreads1 #bbc4 in vol-au-vent1 #dai4 tail1 #bbc4 tongue1 #bbc4 ,candied fruit1 #djc4 ,capon1 #bef4 ,caramel1 #dg4 ,cardoon1 #caf4 ,carp1 #acb1 #ace4 ,carrots1 #caf4 ,bechamel1 #caf4 fines herbes1 #cag4 glazed1 #cag4 au jus1 #cag4 poulette1 #cag4 stewed1 #cag4 with sugar1 #cah4 in puree1 #abb4 soup1 #gg4 ,catsup1 #ah4 mushroom1 #cbg4 tomato1 #ced4 ,cauliflowers1 #cah4 ,bechamel1 #cah4 gratin1 #cah4 white sauce1 #cai4 fried1 #cai4 stewed1 #cai4 in salad1 #cbj4 with cream1 etc41 #cai4 pickled1 #cec4 ,caviare1 #ah4 ,celery1 #cbj4 fried1 #cbj4 in salad1 #cdh1 #cdi4 puree1 #abb4 ,cervelas1 #ai4 ,charlotte of fruit1 #chc4 ,francaise1 #chb4 ,polonaise1 #chb4 ,russe1 #cha4 ,italienne1 #chb4 a la ,chantilly1 #chb4 apple1 #cgi4 ,chartreuse1 #bhd4 ,cheese1 #ai4 a la creme1 #chc4 ,cherries in brandy1 #djf4 compote1 #chf4 pie1 #ddj4 glazed1 #cif4 preserved1 #djb4 ,chervil1 #ai4 ,chestnuts1 #cej4 candied1 #dje4 glazed1 #cif4 in compote1 #chg4 puree1 #aba4 ,chiccory1 #cbj4 in salad1 #cdh4 7wild71 #cdh4 ,chicken1 #bch4 to truss1 etc41 #bch-bda4 baked1 #bea4 boiled1 #bda4 boned1 #bdb4 broiled1 #bdb4 with sauce1 #bdb1 #bdc4 croquettes1 #bdc4 fricassee1 #bdd4 supreme1 #bdf1 #bdg4 financiere1 #bdf4 francaise1 etc41 #bdf4 ,marengo1 etc41 #bdh4 roasted1 #bdi4 with sauce1 #bej4 garniture1 #bej4 decorated1 #bej1 #bea4 saute1 #bea1 #beb4 with ,champagne1 #beb4 stewed1 #bec4 stuffed1 #bec1 #bed4 in pie1 puree1 #aai4 vol-au-vent1 #dai4 cold1 #bed4 in salad1 #bef4 preserved1 #df4 broth1 #fe4 ,choca1 #eb4 ,chocolate1 #ea4 iced1 #cih4 ,choux1 #dbc4 ,chowder1 #aei4 ,clams1 #aei4 baked1 #afa4 chowder1 #aei4 soup1 #ib4 ,cochineal1 #ai4 ,cocoa1 #eb4 ,cocoa-nut1 #ceb4 ,cod-fish1 #acf4 stuffed1 #aca4 7salt71 #ade1 #adf4 ,coffee1 #dg4 iced1 #cih4 ,colander1 #ai4 ,cold weather1 #bb4 ,colored beans1 #caj4 ,compotes1 #chd4 apples1 #che4 cherries1 #chf4 oranges1 #chf4 berries1 #chf4 peaches1 etc41 #che4 syrup1 #chd4 ,contents1 #g4 ,cooking1 #i4 ,corn 7sweet71 #cba4 cake1 #dca4 ,corn-salad1 #cdh4 ,corn-starch1 #ge4 ,consomme1 #fd4 ,caulis of fish1 #aja4 veal1 #aja4 ,courses1 #dfj4 ,crabs1 #aec4 ,cranberries1 #chg4 compote1 #chg4 pie1 #dda4 ,craw-fish1 #aec4 ,cream1 #chg4 sweet1 #cib4 cheese1 #chc4 au cafe1 #chh4 ,chantilly1 #cib4 caramel1 #chi4 chocolate1 #chi4 cuite1 #cij4 essence1 #cij4 frangipane1 #cij4 ice1 #cib4 legere1 #cia4 lemon1 #chg4 orange #cij4 patissiere1 #cia4 renversee1 #cia4 tea1 #cij4 vanilla1 #cij4 whipped1 #cib4 cakes1 #dbc4 ,croque en bouche1 #cid4 ,croquettes of veal1 etc41 #bjf4 chicken1 #bdc4 potato1 #cch4 rice1 #cgc4 ,croquignolles1 #dej4 ,croutons1 #aad4 ,crullers1 #dca4 ,crumbs1 #cj1 #df4 white1 #df4 ,cucumbers1 #cba4 in hors-d'oeuvre1 #cbb4 pickled1 #cee4 in salad1 #cej4 stuffed1 #cbb4 ,currants1 compote1 #chf4 glazed1 #cig4 iced1 #cih4 jelly1 #djf4 salad1 #ceb4 7dried71 #eg4 ,curry1 #bj4 ,custard1 #cic4 ,dandelion1 #cbc4 in salad1 #cdh4 ,dessert1 #dfc4 ,dining-room1 #bj4 ,dinner1 #dei4 directions1 #af4 ,dish1 #bj4 ,dishes 7order of71 #dfa4 ,divers receipts1 #dd4 ,doughnuts1 #dcb4 ,draining1 #bj4 ,drinking1 #ba4 ,duck1 #bfd4 apple sauce1 #bfe4 cranberry sauce1 #bfe4 baked1 #bfe4 roasted1 #bfe4 with turnips1 #bfg4 currant-jelly1 #bfe4 garniture1 #bfe4 saute1 #bff4 with peas1 etc41 #bff4 stuffed1 #bfh4 boned1 #bfh4 preserved1 #df4 cold in salmis1 #bfh4 croquettes1 #bfh4 salad1 #bfh4 ,duckling1 #bfd4 ,dust1 to1 #ba4 ,ears1 #bae4 ,eclairs1 #dbd4 au cafe1 #dbe4 chocolate1 #dbd4 tea1 #dbe4 vanilla1 #dbe4 currants1 #dbe4 strawberries1 #dbe4 jellies1 #dbf4 essence1 #dbe4 ,economy1 #bc4 ,eels1 #acf4 broiled1 #acf4 fried1 #acg4 roasted1 #acg4 in matelote1 #acg4 stuffed1 #acg4 in vol-au-vent1 #dai4 ,eggs1 #cef4 beater1 #bd4 crumbs to fry1 #cj4 whites 7to beat71 #cfc4 ,bechamel1 #ceg4 boiled1 #cei4 fried1 #cfj4 au gratin1 #ceh4 a la tripe1 #cfb4 neige1 #cfb4 poached1 #cfb4 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,skate1 #aci4 ,skewers1 #cg4 ,skirret1 #cdb4 ,skunk1 #bih4 ,small birds1 #bgh1 #bgi4 ,small fish1 #abf4 ,smelts1 #abi4 ,smoked tongue1 #ahc4 ,snails1 #cjc4 ,snipe1 #bgi1 #bie4 ,sole1 #acg4 ,sorrel1 #cdb4 au jus1 #cdc4 in puree1 #cdc4 salad1 #cej4 soup1 #hi4 preserved1 #cdc4 ,souffles1 #djj4 ,soups1 #fa4 ,sour-krout1 #cae4 ,souse1 #eh4 ,spanish mackerel1 #ace4 ,sparrow-grass1 #cjg4 ,spices1 #ch4 ,spinach1 #cdc4 au beurre1 etc41 #cde4 jus1 #cdd4 sucre1 #cdd4 a la creme1 #cdd4 essence1 #eb4 ,sponge cake1 #dca4 ,sportsman's soup1 #hf4 ,sprats1 #ade4 ,sprouts1 #cde4 ,squash1 #cdj4 ,squirrel1 #bii4 ,steaks1 #aga4 turtle1 #hh4 ,sterlet1 #adc4 ,stewing1 #ad4 ,stirring1 #ci4 ,straining1 #ci4 ,strawberry1 glazed1 #cif4 iced1 #cih4 in compote1 #chf4 fritters1 #cic4 jelly1 #djf4 salad1 #ceb4 short-cake1 #dcb4 ,stuffing of birds1 #bec4 fish1 #aca4 ,sturgeon1 #adj4 ,succory1 #cbj4 ,succotash1 #cba4 ,sucking-pig1 #bce4 baked1 #bce4 boned1 #bcf4 roasted1 #bce4 decorated1 #bcf4 ,sugar1 #ci1 #cgf4 burnt1 #dg4 cooked1 #cgf4 dusted1 #ba4 pulverized1 #ci4 syrup1 #cgf4 ,sun-fish1 #acb4 ,supper1 #dfd4 ,syrup for compotes1 #chd4 sugar1 #cgf4 apple1 #chj4 ,sweetbreads1 #bbc4 ,sweet dishes1 #cgf4 potatoes1 #cdj4 ,tapioca1 #ddg4 ,tarragon1 #dj4 ,tarte1 #dda4 ,tartelettes1 #dad4 ,tasting1 #ad4 ,tea1 #eh4 cake1 #dcc4 7meal71 #dfd4 ,tench1 #acb4 ,tenderloin1 #afh4 ,terrapin1 #hg4 ,terreen1 #dch4 ,thrush1 #bgi4 ,thermometer1 #daj4 ,thyme1 #ce4 ,tin tubes1 #dj4 ,toasts1 #ei4 ,tomatoes1 #cde4 salad1 #cea4 stuffed1 #cde4 stewed1 #cde4 preserved1 #ced4 catsup1 #ced4 ,tongue1 #agh4 ,tripe1 #aha4 ,trout1 #aci4 genoise sauce1 #aci4 in matelote1 #acb-acd4 with sauces1 #ace1 #acf4 ,troutlet1 #aci4 ,truffles1 #dj4 garniture1 #aag4 ,tunny1 #adc1 #adg4 ,turbot1 #adc1 #add4 ,bordelaise1 #adc4 in salad1 #add4 vol-au-vent1 #dai4 pie1 #dci4 roasted1 #acj4 cold1 #add4 in hors-d'oeuvre1 #ceb4 ,turkey1 #beg4 baked1 #beh4 boiled1 #beg4 boned1 #bfj4 preserved1 #df4 roasted1 #beh4 stewed1 #bei4 stuffed1 #bei1 #bfj4 in croquettes1 #bfd4 pie1 #dcg4 salad1 #bfd4 with cranberry-sauce1 #bei4 oyster-sauce1 #bei4 currant-jelly1 #bei4 cold1 #bfc4 caponed1 #bfd4 ,turnips1 #cdf4 ,bechamel1 etc41 #cdf4 glazed1 #cdf4 au jus1 #cdf4 with sugar1 #cdf4 ,turtle1 #hg4 ,vanilla1 #da4 ,veal1 #bjb4 baked1 #bje4 blanquette1 #bje4 broiled1 #bjh4 broth1 #fh4 croquettes1 #bjf4 ragout1 #bjf4 roasted1 #bjc4 in scallops1 #bjf4 vol-au-vent1 #dbj4 with vegetables1 #bjd4 decorated1 #bjd4 breast1 with peas1 #bjg4 in matelote1 #bjh4 stewed1 #bjg4 neck1 #bjf4 cold1 #bad4 cutlets1 #bjh4 baked1 #bji4 sautees1 #bji4 with sauces1 #baj4 garnitures1 #bji4 in papillotes1 #baj4 with mushrooms1 #bji4 en ,bellevue1 #baj4 fricandeau1 #baa4 au jus1 #baa4 financiere1 #baa4 with peas1 etc41 #baa4 loin1 or leg1 stewed1 #bac4 baked1 #bje4 roasted1 #bjc4 decorated1 #bjd4 shoulder1 on purees1 etc41 #bab4 baked1 #bab4 boned1 #bab4 roasted1 #bab4 stuffed1 #bab4 en ,bellevue1 #bac4 brain1 etc41 #bad4 pie1 #dcg4 ,vegetables1 #cje4 spoons1 #da4 ,venison1 #bii4 baked1 #cjj4 in civet1 #cjj4 cutlets1 #cjj4 with sauces1 #cja4 haunch1 #cja4 saddle1 with currant-jelly1 #cjb4 shoulder1 #cjb4 stewed1 #cjb4 with truffles1 etc41 #cjc4 cold1 #cjc4 ,vermicelli1 #gg1 #ddf4 ,vinegar1 #cdg4 ,vol-au-vent1 #dag4 of fish1 #dai4 oysters1 #dai4 chicken1 #dai4 veal1 #dbj4 game1 #dbj4 fruits1 #dbj4 sweatmeats1 #dbj4 ,waffles1 #ded4 ,walnuts1 #cea4 ,water1 #db4 ,watercress1 #cdg1 #cdi4 ,weak-fish1 #acb4 ,welsh rarebit1 #fj4 ,white-fish1 #adj4 ,white pepper1 #ce4 ,whortleberry1 #chf1 #ddj4 ,wines1 #db4 ,woodchuck1 #big4 ,woodcock1 #bgi4 in pie1 #dcf4 salmis1 #bif4 ,woodpecker1 #bgi4 ,yellow-birds1 #bgi4 ,zephyrs1 #dec4 ,,the ,,end4 ,,gastronomy ,,and ,,housekeeping4 99 99 99 99 99 ,household ,hints3 ,a ,book of ,home ,receipts and ,home ,suggestions4 ,by ,mrs4 ,emma ,w4 ,babcock4 ,flexible cloth1 with illuminated design4 #abmo4 #fj cents4 ,contents3 ,i4 ,introductory2 ,,ii4 ,bread1 ,tea1 and ,coffee2 ,,iii4 ,meats1 soups1 and ,fish2 ,,iv4 ,vegetables1 ,cereals1 and ,salads2 ,v4 ,puddings and ,pies2 ,,vi4 ,pickles2 ,,vii4 ,cake1 ,custard1 and ,candy2 ,,viii4 ,fruit2 ,,ix4 ,miscellaneous ,hints2 ,x4 ,talks upon ,various ,subjects4 ,all ,around the ,house2 or1 ,how to make ,homes happy4 ,by ,mrs4 ,henry ,ward ,beecher4 #abmo4 ,cloth1 #a4ej4 ,this volume1 as its title implies1 consists of papers upon topics concerning the ordering and well-being of the household4 ,it contains1 in addition to a large number of receipts for cooking1 and rules for marketing1 numerous hints for the management of servants and children1 directions as to furnishing1 repairing1 cleansing1 etc41 and information on all the innumerable things on which housekeepers need information1 while1 in addition to its usefulness as a guide to practical knowledge and economical methods1 it is eminently interesting and suggestive1 in its various essays on home topics1 to every one concerned in the welfare and happiness of the household4 ,hand-book of ,practical ,cookery1 for ,ladies and ,professional ,cooks4 ,containing the whole ,science and ,art of preparing ,human ,food4 ,by ,p4 ,,blot4 #abmo1 cloth1 #a4ge4 ,breakfast1 ,dinner1 and ,tea2 viewed ,classically1 ,poetically1 and ,practically4 ,a new edition4 ,square #abmo1 cloth1 #a4ej4 ,half-,tints3 ,table d',hote and ,drawing-room4 #abmo1 cloth1 #ge cents4 ,lessons in ,cookery3 ,hand-book of the ,national ,training-,school for ,cookery1 ,south ,kensington1 ,london2 to which is added the ,principles of ,diet in ,health and ,disease1 by ,thomas ,k4 ,chambers1 ,m4 ,d4 ,edited by ,eliza ,a4 ,youmans4 #abmo1 cloth1 #a4ej4 ,the novelty and merit of the work are in the method by which it secures successful practice4 ,its lessons1 the plainest1 easiest1 and fullest1 anywhere to be found1 have grown out of a long and painstaking experience1 in finding out the best plan of teaching beginners and ignorant persons how to cook well4 ,they were perfected through the stupidities1 blunders1 mistakes1 questionings1 and difficulties1 of hundreds of pupils1 of all ages1 grades1 and capacities1 under the careful direction of intelligent1 practical teachers4 ,hand-book of ,dining2 or1 ,corpulency and ,leanness ,scientifically ,considered4 ,by ,brillat ,savarin4 ,translated by ,l4 ,f4 ,simpson4 #abmo1 #a4jj4 ,social ,etiquette of ,new ,york4 ,new and enlarged edition4 ,containing two additional chapters--,extended ,visits1 and ,customs and ,costumes at ,theatres1 ,concerts1 and ,operas--with the chapter on ,etiquette of ,weddings rewritten in accordance with the latest fashionable usage4 #ahmo1 cloth1 gilt1 #a4jj4 ,hand-book of ,household ,science4 ,by ,professor ,e4 ,l4 ,youmans4 #abmo1 cloth1 #a4ge4 ,this work has been prepared to meet a long-acknowledged want in our homes and schools4 ,there is a strong and growing demand for that kind of knowledge which can be made available in the daily operations of familiar life4 ,various books have been prepared which cross the field of domestic science at different points1 but this is the first work that traverses and occupies the whole ground4 ,hardly a page can be opened that does not convey information interesting and valuable to every person who dwells in a house4 ,the work will be found not only of high practical utility1 but captivating to the student1 and unequaled in the interest of its recitations4 99 99 99 99 99 ,new ,york3 ,d4 ,,appleton ,,co41 #a1 #c1 #e ,bond ,street4 ,,books ,,for ,,every ,,household4 99 99 99 99 99 ,cooley's ,cyclopaedia of ,practical ,receipts1 ,and ,collateral ,information in the ,arts1 ,manufactures1 ,professions1 and ,trades1 including ,medicine1 ,pharmacy1 and ,domestic ,economy4 ,designed as a ,comprehensive ,supplement to the ,pharmacopoeia1 and ,general ,book of ,reference for the ,manufacturer1 ,tradesman1 ,amateur1 and ,heads of ,families4 ,sixth edition4 ,revised and partly rewritten by ,richard ,v4 ,tuson1 ,professor of ,chemistry and ,toxicology in the ,royal ,veterinary ,college4 ,complete in two volumes1 #hvo1 #a1gif pages4 ,with ,illustrations4 ,price1 #i4jj4 ,the great characteristic of this work is its general usefulness4 ,in covering such diverse subjects1 the very best and most recent research seems to have been sought for1 and the work is remarkable for intelligent industry4 ,this very complete work can1 then1 be highly recommended as fulfilling to the letter what it purports to be--a cyclopaedia of practical receipts4--,new ,york ,times4 ,it is a well-edited special work1 compiled with excellent judgment for special purposes1 which are kept constantly in mind4 ,if it is more comprehensive than its title suggests1 that is only because it is impossible to define the limits of its purpose with exactitude1 or to describe its contents upon a title-page4 ,illustrations of the text are freely used1 and the mechanical execution of the work is excellent4--,new ,york ,evening ,post4 ,the ,chemistry of ,common ,life4 ,by the late ,professor ,james ,f4 ,w4 ,johnston4 ,a new edition1 revised and enlarged1 and brought down to the ,present ,time1 by ,arthur ,herbert ,church1 ,m4 ,a41 ,oxon41 author of ,food3 its ,sources1 ,constituents1 and ,uses4 ,illustrated with ,maps and numerous ,engravings on ,wood4 ,in one vol41 #abmo1 #eib pages4 ,cloth4 ,price1 #b4jj4 ,summary of ,contents4--,the ,air we ,breathe2 the ,water we ,drink2 the ,soil we ,cultivate2 the ,plant we ,rear2 the ,bread we ,eat2 the ,beef we ,cook2 the ,beverages we ,infuse2 the ,sweets we ,extract2 the ,liquors we ,ferment2 the ,narcotics we ,indulge in2 the ,poisons we ,select2 the ,odors we ,enjoy2 the ,smells we ,dislike2 the ,colors we ,admire2 ,what we ,breathe and ,breathe for2 ,what1 ,how1 and ,why we ,digest2 the ,body we ,cherish2 the ,circulation of ,matter4 ,in the number and variety of striking illustrations1 in the simplicity of its style1 and in the closeness and cogency of its arguments1 ,professor ,johnston's ,chemistry of ,common ,life has as yet found no equal among the many books of a similar character which its success originated1 and it steadily maintains its preeminence in the popular scientific literature of the day4 ,in preparing this edition for the press1 the editor had the opportunity of consulting ,professor ,johnston's private and corrected copy of ,the ,chemistry of ,common ,life1 who had1 before his death1 gleaned very many fresh details1 so that he was able not only to incorporate with his revision some really valuable matter1 but to learn the kind of addition which the author contemplated4 99 99 99 99 99 ,d4 ,,appleton ,,co41 ,publishers1 #a1 #c1 #e ,bond ,st41 ,new ,york ,transcriber's ,notes3 hyphenation1 spelling and grammar have been preserved as in the original ,page #bh1 kept a ong time kept a long time ,page #bi1 to bake game to bake game4 ,page #dg1 when proper y made when properly made ,page #ec1 with good beef with good beef4 ,page #fh1 stalks of chewil stalks of chervil ,page #gh1 place a ayer place a layer ,page #hc1 when mash gently then mash gently ,page #hf1 but ess nourishing but less nourishing ,page #aaf1 fresh mushroons and fresh mushrooms and ,page #aaf1 cooked1 when add cooked1 then add ,page #aeg1 excellent dish excellent dish4 ,page #bje1 hrow them in throw them in ,page #bah1 with once ounce with one ounce ,page #bdh1 cooked1 when add cooked1 then add ,page #bec1 yellow1 when add yellow1 then add ,page #bhd1 done1 when dish done1 then dish ,page #big1 following sauce pound following sauce2 pound ,page #ccd1 and scolloped all and scalloped all ,page #cdf1 fifteen minutes fifteen minutes4 ,page #cfa1 ,procced as for eggs ,proceed as for eggs ,page #cgi1 by squeezeing it by squeezing it ,page #cid1 an inck thick4 an inch thick4 ,page #djj1 tea1 choco late1 etc4 tea1 chocolate1 etc4 ,page #djd1 one another2 and one an other2 and ,page #daf1 with trim mings of with trimmings of ,page #dah_/dai1 the cen tre1 it the centre1 it ,page #ddc1 atter are blamable latter are blamable ,page #dfj1 rots and entremets rots and entremets ,page #dfj1 to spend4 etc4 to spend1 etc4 ,page #dfa1 ,hors-d'oeuvres hors-d'oeuvres ,page #dgd1 sautees1 #ccf4 sautees1 #ccf4