,transcribed from the #ahif ,john       
,murray edition by ,david ,price1 email 
ccx#jgdpglaf4org                        
,picture3 ,seville                      
,,the ,,bible ,,in ,,spain2             
,,or1 ,,the ,,journeys1 ,,adventures1   
,,and                                   
,,imprisonments ,,of ,,an ,,englishman  
,,in ,,an ,,attempt ,,to ,,circulate    
,,the ,,scriptures ,,in                 
,,the ,,peninsula4                      
,,by                                    
,,george ,,borrow4                      
99 99 99 99 99                  ,a ,,new
 ,,edition1 ,,with ,,notes ,,and ,a     
,,glossary1                         ,,by
 ,,ulick ,,ralph ,,burke1 ,m4,a41       
,,author ,,of 8,a ,,history ,,of        
,,spain10 ,,etc4                        
99 99 99 99 99                          
,,in ,,two ,,volumes4                   
,,vol4 ,i4                              
99 99 99 99 99                          
,,with ,,map ,,and ,,engravings4        
99 99 99 99 99                          

,,london3                        ,,john 
,,murray1 ,,albemarle ,,street4         
#ahif4                                  
99 99 99 99 99                          
,,london3                 ,,printed ,,by
 ,,william ,,clowes ,,and ,,sons1       
,,limited1                              
,,stamford ,,street ,,and ,,charing     
,,cross4          ,,preface4      ,it is
 very seldom that the preface of a work 
is read2 indeed1 of late  years most    
books have been sent into the world     
without any4  ,i deem it1  however1     
advisable to write a preface1 and to    
this ,i humbly call the  attention of   
the courteous reader1 as its perusal    
will not a little tend  to the proper   
understanding and appreciation of these 
volumes4    ,the work now offered to the
 public1 and which is styled ,the ,bible
 in  ,spain1 consists of a narrative of 
what occurred to me during a residence  
in that country1 to which ,i was sent by
 the ,bible ,society1 as its agent1  for
 the purpose of printing and circulating

 the ,scriptures4  ,it  comprehends1    
however1 certain journeys and adventures
 in ,portugal1 and  leaves me at last in
 8the land of the ,corahai10 to which   
region1 after  having undergone         
considerable buffeting in ,spain1 ,i    
found it expedient to  retire for a     
season4    ,it is very probable that had
 ,i visited ,spain from mere curiosity1 
or with  a view of passing a year or two
 agreeably1 ,i should never have        
attempted  to give any detailed account 
of my proceedings1 or of what ,i heard  
and  saw4  ,i am no tourist1 no writer  
of books of travels2 but ,i went there  
on  a somewhat remarkable errand1 which 
necessarily led me into strange         
situations and positions1 involved me in
 difficulties and perplexities1  and    
brought me into contact with people of  
all descriptions and grades2  so that1  
upon the whole1 ,i flatter myself that a
 narrative of such a  pilgrimage may not
 be wholly uninteresting to the public1 
more especially  as the subject is not  

trite2 for1 though various books have   
been  published about ,spain1 ,i believe
 that the present is the only one in    
existence which treats of missionary    
labour in that country4    ,many things1
 it is true1 will be found in the       
following volume which have  little     
connexion with religion1 or religious   
enterprise2 ,i offer1  however1 no      
apology for introducing them4  ,i was1  
as ,i may say1 from  first to last      
adrift in ,spain1 the land of old       
renown1 the land of wonder  and mystery1
 with better opportunities of becoming  
acquainted with its  strange secrets and
 peculiarities than1 perhaps1 ever yet  
were afforded  to any individual1       
certainly to a foreigner2 and if in many
 instances ,i  have introduced scenes   
and characters perhaps unprecedented in 
a work of  this description1 ,i have    
only to observe1 that1 during my sojourn
 in  ,spain1 ,i was so unavoidably mixed
 up with such1 that ,i could scarcely   
have given a faithful narrative of what 

befell me had ,i not brought them       
forward in the manner in which ,i have  
done4    ,it is worthy of remark1 that1 
called suddenly and unexpectedly 8to    
undertake the adventure of ,spain10 ,i  
was not altogether unprepared for  such 
an enterprise4  ,in the day-dreams of my
 boyhood1 ,spain always bore a          
considerable share1 and ,i took a       
particular interest in her1 without any 
presentiment that ,i should1 at a future
 time1 be called upon to take a  part1  
however humble1 in her strange dramas2  
which interest1 at a very  early period1
 led me to acquire her noble language1  
and to make myself  acquainted with her 
literature 7scarcely worthy of the      
language71 her  history1 and traditions2
 so that when ,i entered ,spain for the 
first time  ,i felt more at home than ,i
 should otherwise have done4    ,in     
,spain ,i passed five years1 which1 if  
not the most eventful1 were1 ,i  have no
 hesitation in saying1 the most happy   
years of my existence4  ,of  ,spain at  

the present time1 now that the day-dream
 has vanished never1  alas6 to return1  
,i entertain the warmest admiration3 she
 is the most  magnificent country in the
 world1 probably the most fertile1 and  
certainly with the finest climate4      
,whether her children are worthy of     
their mother1 is another question1 which
 ,i shall not attempt to answer2  but   
content myself with observing that1     
amongst much that is lamentable  and    
reprehensible1 ,i have found much that  
is noble and to be admired3  much stern 
heroic virtue2 much savage and horrible 
crime2 of low vulgar  vice very little1 
at least amongst the great body of the  
,spanish nation1  with which my mission 
lay2 for it will be as well here to     
observe that ,i  advance no claim to an 
intimate acquaintance with the ,spanish 
nobility1  from whom ,i kept as remote  
as circumstances would permit me2 en    
revanche1 however1 ,i have had the      
honour to live on familiar terms with   
the peasants1 shepherds1 and muleteers  

of ,spain1 whose bread and  bacallao ,i 
have eaten2 who always treated me with  
kindness and  courtesy1 and to whom ,i  
have not unfrequently been indebted for 
shelter  and protection4        8,the   
generous bearing of ,francisco          
,gonzales1 and the high deeds of        
,ruy ,diaz the ,cid1 are still sung     
amongst the fastnesses of the ,sierra   
,morena40 #j;a    ,i believe that no    
stronger argument can be brought forward
 in proof of  the natural vigour and    
resources of ,spain1 and the sterling   
character of  her population1 than the  
fact that1 at the present day1 she is   
still a  powerful and unexhausted       
country1 and her children still1 to a   
certain  extent1 a high-minded and great
 people4  ,yes1 notwithstanding the     
misrule  of the brutal and sensual      
,austrian1 the doting ,bourbon1 and1    
above all1  the spiritual tyranny of the
 court of ,rome1 ,spain can still       
maintain her  own1 fight her own combat1
 and ,spaniards are not yet fanatic     

slaves and  crouching beggars4  ,this is
 saying much1 very much3 she has        
undergone far  more than ,naples had    
ever to bear1 and yet the fate of       
,naples has not  been hers4  ,there is  
still valour in ,asturia1 generosity in 
,aragon1  probity in ,old ,castile1 and 
the peasant women of ,la ,mancha can    
still  afford to place a silver fork and
 a snowy napkin beside the plate of     
their guest4  ,yes1 in spite of         
,austrian1 ,bourbon1 and ,rome1 there is
  still a wide gulf between ,spain and  
,naples4    ,strange as it may sound1   
,spain is not a fanatic country4 #j;b   
,i know  something about her1 and       
declare that she is not1 nor has ever   
been3  ,spain never changes4  ,it is    
true that1 for nearly two centuries1 she
 was  the she-butcher1 ,la ,verduga1 of 
malignant ,rome2 the chosen instrument  
for carrying into effect the atrocious  
projects of that power2 yet  fanaticism 
was not the spring which impelled her to
 the work of butchery3  another feeling1

 in her the predominant one1 was worked 
upon--her fatal  pride4  ,it was by     
humouring her pride that she was induced
 to waste her  precious blood and       
treasure in the ,low ,country wars1 to  
launch the  ,armada1 and to many other  
equally insane actions4  ,love of ,rome 
had ever  slight influence over her     
policy2 but1 flattered by the title of  
,gonfaloniera of the ,vicar of ,jesus1  
and eager to prove herself not  unworthy
 of the same1 she shut her eyes1 and    
rushed upon her own  destruction with   
the cry of 8,charge1 ,spain60    ,but   
the arms of ,spain became powerless     
abroad1 and she retired within  herself4
  ,she ceased to be the tool of the     
vengeance and cruelty of ,rome4  ,she   
was not cast aside1 however4  ,no6      
though she could no longer wield  the   
sword with success against the          
,lutherans1 she might still be turned   
to some account4  ,she had still gold   
and silver1 and she was still the  land 
of the vine and olive4  ,ceasing to be  

the butcher1 she became the  banker of  
,rome2 and the poor ,spaniards1 who     
always esteem it a privilege  to pay    
another person's reckoning1 were for a  
long time happy in being  permitted to  
minister to the grasping cupidity of    
,rome1 who1 during the  last century1   
probably extracted from ,spain more     
treasure than from all  the rest of     
,christendom4    ,but wars came into the
 land4  ,napoleon and his fierce ,franks
 invaded  ,spain2 plunder and           
devastation ensued1 the effects of which
 will probably  be felt for ages4       
,spain could no longer pay pence to     
,peter so freely as  of yore1 and from  
that period she became contemptible in  
the eyes of  ,rome1 who has no respect  
for a nation1 save so far as it can     
minister to  her cruelty or avarice4    
,the ,spaniard was still willing to pay1
 as far as  his means would allow1 but  
he was soon given to understand that he 
was a  degraded being1--a barbarian2    
nay1 a beggar4  ,now you may draw the   

last  cuarto from a ,spaniard1 provided 
you will concede to him the title of    
cavalier1 and rich man1 for the old     
leaven still works as powerfully as  in 
the time of the first ,philip2 #j;c but 
you must never hint that he is  poor1 or
 that his blood is inferior to your own4
  ,and the old peasant1 on  being       
informed in what slight estimation he   
was held1 replied1 8,if ,i am a  beast1 
a barbarian1 and a beggar withal1 ,i am 
sorry for it2 but1 as there  is no      
remedy1 ,i shall spend these four       
bushels of barley1 which ,i had         
reserved to alleviate the misery of the 
holy father1 in procuring bull          
spectacles1 and other convenient        
diversions1 for the queen my wife1 and  
the young princes my children4  ,beggar6
 carajo6  ,the water of my  village is  
better than the wine of ,rome40    ,i   
see that in a late pastoral letter      
directed to the ,spaniards1 the  father 
of ,rome complains bitterly of the      
treatment which he has received  in     

,spain at the hands of naughty men4     
8,my cathedrals are let down10 he  says1
 8my priests are insulted1 and the      
revenues of my bishops are  curtailed40 
,he consoles himself1 however1 with the 
idea1 that this is  the effect of the   
malice of a few1 and that the generality
 of the nation  love him1 especially the
 peasantry1 the innocent peasantry1 who 
shed  tears when they think of the      
sufferings of their ,pope and their     
religion4  ,undeceive yourself1         
,batuschca1 undeceive yourself6  ,spain 
was ready to  fight for you so long as  
she could increase her own glory by     
doing so2  but she took no pleasure in  
losing battle after battle on your      
account4  ,she had no objection to pay  
money into your coffers in the shape of 
alms1  expecting1 however1 that the same
 would be received with the gratitude   
and humility which become those who     
accept charity4  ,finding1 however1     
that you were neither humble nor        
grateful2 suspecting1 moreover1 that you

  held ,austria in higher esteem than   
herself1 even as a banker1 she  shrugged
 up her shoulders1 and uttered a        
sentence somewhat similar to  that which
 ,i have already put into the mouth of  
one of her children1  8,these four      
bushels of barley10 etc4    ,it is truly
 surprising what little interest the    
great body of the ,spanish  nation took 
in the late struggle2 and yet it has    
been called by some1 who  ought to know 
better1 a war of religion and principle4
  ,it was generally  supposed that      
,biscay was the stronghold of ,carlism1 
and that the  inhabitants were          
fanatically attached to their religion1 
which they  apprehended was in danger4  
,the truth is1 that the ,basques cared  
nothing  for ,carlos or ,rome1 and      
merely took up arms to defend certain   
rights and  privileges of their own4    
#j;d  ,for the dwarfish brother of      
,ferdinand they  always exhibited       
supreme contempt1 which his character1 a
 compound of  imbecility1 cowardice1 and

 cruelty1 well merited4  ,if they made  
use of  his name1 it was merely as a cri
 de guerre4  ,much the same may be said 
with respect to his ,spanish partisans1 
at least those who appeared in the      
field for him4  ,these1 however1 were of
 a widely different character from  the 
,basques1 who were brave soldiers and   
honest men4  ,the ,spanish armies  of   
,don ,carlos were composed entirely of  
thieves and assassins1 chiefly          
,valencians and ,manchegans1 who1       
marshalled under two cutthroats1        
,cabrera  and ,palillos1 took advantage 
of the distracted state of the country  
to  plunder and massacre the honest part
 of the community4  ,with respect to    
the ,queen ,regent ,christina1 of whom  
the less said the better1 the reins  of 
government fell into her hands on the   
decease of her husband1 and with  them  
the command of the soldiery4  ,the      
respectable part of the ,spanish        
nation1 and more especially the         
honourable and toil-worn peasantry1     

loathed and execrated both factions4    
,oft when ,i was sharing at nightfall   
the frugal fare of the villager of ,old 
or ,new ,castile1 on hearing the        
distant shot of the ,cristino soldier or
 ,carlist bandit1 he would invoke       
curses on the heads of the two          
pretenders1 not forgetting the holy     
father  and the goddess of ,rome1 ,maria
 ,santsima4  ,then1 with the tiger      
energy  of the ,spaniard when roused1 he
 would start up and exclaim1 8,vamos1   
,don ,jorge to the plain1 to the plain6 
,i wish to enlist with you1 and  to     
learn the law of the ,english4  ,to the 
plain1 therefore1 to the plain          
to-morrow1 to circulate the gospel of   
,inglaterra40    ,amongst the peasantry 
of ,spain ,i found my sturdiest         
supporters2 and yet  the holy father    
supposes that the ,spanish labourers are
 friends and  lovers of his4  ,undeceive
 yourself1 ,batuschca6    ,but to return
 to the present work3 it is devoted to  
an account of what  befell me in ,spain 

whilst engaged in distributing the      
,scripture4  ,with  respect to my poor  
labours1 ,i wish here to observe that ,i
 accomplished  but very little1 and that
 ,i lay claim to no brilliant successes 
and  triumphs2 indeed1 ,i was sent into 
,spain more to explore the country1 and 
to ascertain how far the minds of the   
people were prepared to receive the     
truths of ,christianity1 than for any   
other object2 ,i obtained1 however1     
through the assistance of kind friends1 
permission from the ,spanish  government
 to print an edition of the sacred      
volume at ,madrid1 which ,i             
subsequently circulated in that capital 
and in the provinces4    ,during my     
sojourn in ,spain there were others who 
wrought good service in  the ,gospel    
cause1 and of whose efforts it were     
unjust to be silent in a  work of this  
description4  ,base is the heart which  
would refuse merit its  meed2 and1      
however insignificant may be the value  
of any eulogium which  can flow from a  

pen like mine1 ,i cannot refrain from   
mentioning with  respect and esteem a   
few names connected with ,gospel        
enterprise4  ,a  zealous ,irish         
gentleman1 of the name of ,graydon1 #j;e
 exerted himself  with indefatigable    
diligence in diffusing the light of     
,scripture in the  province of          
,catalonia1 and along the southern      
shores of ,spain2 whilst two            
missionaries from ,gibraltar1 ,messrs4  
,rule #j;f and ,lyon1 #j;g during one   
entire year1 preached ,evangelic truth  
in a church at ,cadiz4  ,so much        
success attended the efforts of these   
two last1 brave disciples of the        
immortal ,wesley1 that there is every   
reason for supposing that1 had they  not
 been silenced1 and eventually banished 
from the country1 by the  pseudo-liberal
 faction of the ,moderados1 not only    
,cadiz1 but the  greater part of        
,andalusia1 would by this time have     
confessed the pure  doctrines of the    
,gospel1 and have discarded for ever the

 last relics of  ,popish superstition4  
,more immediately connected with the    
,bible ,society and myself1 ,i am most  
happy to take this opportunity of       
speaking of ,luis de ,usoz y ,rio1 #j;h 
the scion of an ancient and honourable  
family of ,old ,castile1 my  coadjutor  
whilst editing the ,spanish ,new        
,testament at ,madrid4  ,throughout  my 
residence in ,spain ,i experienced every
 mark of friendship from this           
gentleman1 who1 during the periods of my
 absence in the provinces1 and my       
numerous and long journeys1 cheerfully  
supplied my place at ,madrid1 and       
exerted himself to the utmost in        
forwarding the views of the ,bible      
,society1 influenced by no other motive 
than a hope that its efforts would      
eventually contribute to the peace1     
happiness1 and civilization of his      
native land4    ,in conclusion1 ,i beg  
leave to state that ,i am fully aware of
 the various  faults and inaccuracies of
 the present work4  ,it is founded on   

certain  journals which ,i kept during  
my stay in ,spain1 and numerous letters 
written to my friends in ,england1 which
 they had subsequently the  kindness to 
restore2 the greater part1 however1     
consisting of  descriptions of scenery1 
sketches of character1 etc41 has been   
supplied  from memory4  ,in various     
instances ,i have omitted the names of  
places1  which ,i have either forgotten1
 or of whose orthography ,i am          
uncertain4  ,the work1 as it at present 
exists1 was written in a solitary hamlet
 in a  remote part of ,england1 where ,i
 had neither books to consult1 nor      
friends  of whose opinion or advice ,i  
could occasionally avail myself1 and    
under  all the disadvantages which arise
 from enfeebled health4  ,i have1       
however1 on a recent occasion1          
experienced too much of the lenity and  
generosity of the public1 both of       
,britain and ,america1 to shrink from   
again exposing myself to its gaze2 and  
trust that1 if in the present  volumes  

it find but little to admire1 it will   
give me credit for good  spirit1 and for
 setting down nought in malice4    ,nov4
 #bf1 #ahdb4          ,,contents ,,of   
,,vol4 ,i4                              
,,introduction ,,by ,,the ,,editors     
i                                       
,,page                                  
,,chapter ,i4  ,man overboard--,the     
,tagus--,foreign                        
#a  ,languages--,gesticulation--,streets
 of ,lisbon--,the  ,aqueduct--,bible    
tolerated in ,portugal--,cintra--,don   
,sebastian--,john de                    
,castro--,conversation with a           
,priest--,colhares--,mafra--,its        
,palace--,the ,schoolmaster--,the       
,portuguese--,their ,ignorance of       
,scripture--,rural  ,priesthood--,the   
,alemtejo                               
,,chapter ,,ii4  ,boatmen of the        
,tagus--,dangers of the ,stream--,aldea 
#ag  ,gallega--,the                     
,hostelry--,robbers--,sabocha--,adventur
e of a  ,muleteer--,estalagem de        

,ladres--,don ,geronimo--,vendas        
,novas--,royal ,residence--,swine of the
 ,alemtejo--,monte  ,moro--,swayne      
,vonved--,singular ,goatherd--,children 
of the  ,fields--,infidels and          
,sadducees                              
,,chapter ,,iii4  ,shopkeeper at        
,evora--,spanish ,contrabandistas--,lion
 and                #cc  ,unicorn--,the 
,fountain--,trust in the                
,almighty--,distribution of             
,tracts--,library at                    
,evora--,manuscript--,the ,bible as a   
,guide--,the ,infamous ,mary--,the ,man 
of ,palmella--,the ,charm--,the         
,monkish ,system--,sunday--,volney--,an 
,auto-da-,f--,men from  ,spain--,reading
 of a ,tract--,new ,arrival--,the ,herb 
,rosemary                               
,,chapter ,,iv4  ,vexatious             
,delays--,drunken ,driver--,the         
,murdered ,mule--,the               #dh 
,lamentation--,adventure on the         
,heath--,fear of  ,darkness--,portuguese
 ,fidalgo--,the ,escort--,return to     

,lisbon                                 
,,chapter ,v4  ,the ,college--,the      
,rector--,shibboleth--,national         
#ei  ,prejudices--,youthful             
,sports--,jews of ,lisbon--,bad         
,faith--,crime  and ,superstition       
,,chapter ,,vi4  ,cold of               
,portugal--,extortion                   
prevented--,sensation of                
#ga  ,loneliness--,the ,dog--,the       
,convent--,enchanting                   
,landscape--,moorish                    
,fortresses--,prayer for the ,sick      
,,chapter ,,vii4  ,the ,druid's         
,stone--,the ,young                     
,spaniard--,ruffianly                   
#hb  ,soldiers--,evils of               
,war--,estremoz--,the ,brawl--,ruined   
,watch-tower--,glimpse of ,spain--,old  
,times and ,new                         
,,chapter ,,viii4                       
,elvas--,extraordinary ,longevity--,the 
,english                           #id  
,nation--,portuguese                    
,ingratitude--,illiberality--,fortificat

ions--,spanish  ,beggar--,badajoz--,the 
,custom-,house                          
,,chapter ,,ix4  ,badajoz--,antonio the 
,gypsy--,antonio's ,proposal--,the      
,proposal          #aje                 
accepted--,gypsy ,breakfast--,departure 
from ,badajoz--,the ,gypsy              
,donkey--,merida--,the ,ruined          
,wall--,the ,crone--,the ,land of the   
,moor--,the ,black ,men--,life in the   
,desert--,the ,supper                   
,,chapter ,x4  ,the ,gypsy's            
,granddaughter--,proposed               
,marriage--,the                    #abb 
,alguazil--,the ,assault--,speedy       
,trot--,arrival at ,trujillo--,night    
and ,rain--,the ,forest--,the           
,bivouac--,mount and                    
,away6--,jaraicejo--,the ,national--,the
 ,cavalier ,balmerson--,among  the      
,thickets--,serious ,discourse--,what is
 ,truth8--,unexpected  ,intelligence    
,,chapter ,,xi4  ,the ,pass of          
,mirabete--,wolves and                  
,shepherds--,female                     

#ade  ,subtlety--,death by ,wolves--,the
 ,mystery solved--,the  ,mountains--,the
 ,dark ,hour--,the ,traveller of the    
,night--,abarbenel--,hoarded            
,treasure--,force of ,gold--,the        
,archbishop--,arrival at ,madrid        
,,chapter ,,xii4  ,lodging at           
,madrid--,my ,hostess--,british         
#afb                                    
,ambassador--,mendizabal--,baltasar--,du
ties of a ,national--,young             
,blood--,the ,execution--,population of 
,madrid--,the ,higher  ,orders--,the    
,lower ,classes--,the                   
,bull-fighter--,the ,crabbed  ,gitano   
,,chapter ,,xiii4  ,intrigues at        
,court--,quesada and                    
,galiano--,dissolution of the           
#agi  ,cortes--,the                     
,secretary--,aragonese                  
,pertinacity--,the ,council of          
,trent--,the ,asturian--,the ,three     
,thieves--,benedict ,mol--,the ,men  of 
,lucerne--,the ,treasure                
,,chapter ,,xiv4  ,state of             

,spain--,isturitz--,revolution of the   
,granja--,the               #aid        
,disturbance--,signs of                 
,mischief--,newspaper                   
,reporters--,quesada's ,onslaught--,the 
,closing ,scene--,flight of  the        
,moderados--,the ,coffee ,bowl          
,,chapter ,,xv4  ,the ,steamer--,cape   
,finisterre--,the ,storm--,arrival at   
,cadiz--,the         #bjh  ,new         
,testament--,seville--,italica--,the    
,amphitheatre--,the  ,prisoners--,the   
,encounter--,baron ,taylor--,the ,street
 and ,desert                            
,,chapter ,,xvi4  ,departure for        
,cordova--,carmona--,german             
,colonies--,language--,the         #bbc 
,sluggish ,horse--,nocturnal            
,welcome--,carlist ,landlord--,good     
,advice--,gomez--,the ,old              
,genoese--,the ,two ,opinions           
,,chapter ,,xvii4  ,cordova--,moors of  
,barbary--,the ,english--,an ,old       
,priest--,the             #bcc  ,roman  
,breviary--,the ,dovecote--,the ,holy   

,office--,judaism--,desecration of      
,dovecotes--,the ,innkeeper's  ,proposal
                              ,,chapter 
,,xviii4  ,departure from ,cordova--,the
 ,contrabandista--,jewish               
#beb  ,cunning--,arrival at ,madrid     
,,chapter ,,xix4  ,arrival at           
,madrid--,maria ,diaz--,printing of the 
,testament--,my          #bef           
,project--,andalusian ,steed--,servant  
,wanted--,an  ,application--,antonio    
,buchini--,general ,cordova--,principles
 of  ,honour                            
,,chapter ,,xx4  ,illness--,nocturnal   
,visit--,a ,master ,mind--,the          
#bgj  ,whisper--,salamanca--,irish      
,hospitality--,spanish ,soldiers--,the  
,scriptures advertised                  
,,chapter ,,xxi4  ,departure from       
,salamanca--,reception at               
,pitiegua--,the                 #bhj    
,dilemma--,sudden ,inspiration--,the    
,good ,presbyter--,combat of            
,quadrupeds--,irish ,christians--,plains
 of ,spain--,the  ,catalans--,the ,fatal

 ,pool--,valladolid--,circulation of the
  ,scriptures--,philippine              
,missions--,english ,college--,a        
,conversation--,the ,gaoleress          
,,chapter ,,xxii4  ,dueas--,children of 
,egypt--,jockeyism--,the ,baggage       
,pony--,the            #cjc             
,fall--,palencia--,carlist              
,priests--,the ,look-out--,priestly     
,sincerity--,leon--,antonio             
alarmed--,heat and ,dust                
,,chapter ,,xxiii4  ,astorga--,the      
,inn--,the ,maragatos--,habits of the   
,maragatos--,the          #cai  ,statue 
,,chapter ,,xxiv4  ,departure from      
,astorga--,the ,venta--,the             
,by-path--,narrow                #cbf   
,escape--,the ,cup of ,water--,sun and  
,shade--,bembibre--,convent of  the     
,rocks--,sunset--,cacabelos--,midnight  
,adventure--,villafranca                
,,chapter ,,xxv4  ,villafranca--,the    
,pass--,gallegan ,simplicity--,the      
,frontier              #cdc             
,guard--,the ,horse-shoe--,gallegan     

,peculiarities--,a ,word on             
,language--,the ,courier--,wretched     
,cabins--,host and                      
,guests--,andalusians                   
,,chapter ,,xxvi4  ,lugo--,the          
,baths--,a ,family                      
,history--,miguelets--,the ,three       
#ceh  ,heads--,a ,farrier--,english     
,squadron--,sale of                     
,testaments--,corunna--,the             
,recognition--,luigi ,piozzi--,the      
,speculation--,a ,blank ,prospect--,john
 ,moore                                 
,,chapter ,,xxvii4  ,compostella--,rey  
,romero--,the ,treasure-seeker--,hopeful
                 #cgg  ,project--,the   
,church of ,refuge--,hidden             
,riches--,the  ,canon--,spirit of       
,localism--,the ,leper--,bones of ,saint
 ,james                                 
,,chapter ,,xxviii4  ,skippers of       
,padron--,caldas de los                 
,reyes--,pontevedra--,the               
#cib  ,notary ,public--,insane          
,barber--,an ,introduction--,gallegan   

,language--,afternoon ,ride--,vigo--,the
 ,stranger--,jews of the  ,desert--,bay 
of ,vigo--,sudden ,interruption--,the   
,governor        ,,list ,,of            
,,illustrations4                        
,,vol4 ,i4                              
,,page  ,,seville                       
,frontispiece  ,,interior ,,of ,,the    
,,mosque1 ,,cordova           ,to face  
#bch        ,,introduction4      ,,part 
,i4      ,when ,george ,borrow1 in the  
month of ,november1 #ahce1 steamed up   
the ,tagus  on his adventurous journey  
to distribute the ,bible in ,spain1 the 
political situation throughout the      
,peninsula was so complicated and so    
extraordinary1 that a brief review of   
the events of the few years  immediately
 preceding his arrival will be necessary
 to enable any one but  a specially     
instructed reader to appreciate1 or even
 to understand1 his  position and his   
adventures4    ,when ,ferdinand ,,vii4  
was restored to his kingdom by the      
,british arms in  #ahad1 ,spain was     

still governed by the ,cortes elected   
under the ,liberal  ,constitution of    
#ahab4    ,ferdinand1 having sworn many 
oaths to maintain this ,constitution and
  ,parliamentary ,institutions in the   
country1 no sooner found himself firmly 
seated on the throne1 than1 encouraged  
by the clergy within his  dominions1 and
 by the ,holy ,alliance in ,northern    
,europe1 he issued an  edict dissolving 
the ,cortes1 and reviving the old       
absolutism with all the  old abuses in  
,spain4    ,the nobles were once again  
exempted from taxation2 the monasteries 
were  restored2 the ,jesuits returned to
 ,spain2 the ,inquisition was formally  
re-established2 all ,liberal politicians
 were persecuted to the death4  ,for six
 years this royalist reign of           
terror--more dreadful by far than the   
,terreur blanche in contemporary        
,france--was continued1 until at length1
  the great ,american colonies having   
asserted their independence1 #b the     
standard of revolt was raised in ,spain 

by ,riego and ,quiroga1 two officers  in
 command of an expedition which was just
 about to sail from ,cadiz to  renew the
 war against the colonists in ,south    
,america in ,january1 #ahbj4  ,the      
success of this political revolution was
 prompt and complete4  ,in  ,march the  
king gave way1 and once more accepted   
the ,constitution of #ahab2  and an     
administration of moderate reformers was
 formed under ,martinez de  la ,rosa1 a 
well-known man of letters1 and was      
generally acceptable to the  country4   
,after much intrigue and factious       
opposition1 both on the part of the     
extreme ,royalists and the extreme      
,radicals1 the election of ,riego to the
  ,presidency of the ,cortes in #ahbb   
marked the extreme limit of the triumph 
of the ,liberal party in ,spain4    ,the
 ,congress of ,verona in ,october1      
#ahbb2 the growing pretensions of the   
,holy ,alliance2 the mission of the     
,duke of ,wellington1 with ,george      
,canning's protest against the armed    

intervention of any of the ,powers in   
the domestic affairs of the ,peninsula2 
and the ultimate invasion of ,spain  by 
a ,french army of #ajj1jjj men under the
 ,duc d',angoulme1 eldest son of  the   
,comte d',artois1 afterwards ,charles   
,x41 in ,april1 #ahbc2--these things    
belong as much to ,european as to       
,spanish history1 and need only be      
referred to in passing4    ,the ,french 
army1 as may be supposed1 met with no   
serious opposition4  ,madrid was easily 
occupied before the end of ,may4        
,cadiz1 maintaining a  brief but        
honourable resistance1 yielded to a     
bombardment in ,september2  and         
,ferdinand ,,vii41 reinvested with      
absolute power over his subjects by     
foreign artillery and foreign bayonets  
in ,october1 #ahbc1 immediately  unswore
 all his oaths1 and restored all the old
 tyranny and abuses in  ,spain4  ,riego 
was at once put to death4  ,all         
,liberals and even  moderados were      
exposed to a sanguinary and relentless  

persecution4  ,the  leaders and their   
richer and more important partisans were
 as a rule able  to make good their     
flight1 in many cases to ,england2 but  
their humbler  followers paid the       
penalty of their liberalism with their  
lives4  ,the  ,french army of occupation
 remained in ,spain for four            
years--#ahbc-ahbg--;and  ,cadiz was not 
evacuated until #ahbh4    ,in           
,september1 #ahbd1 ,charles ,x4         
succeeded the more liberal ,louis       
,,xviii4 on  the throne of ,france1 and 
,george ,canning1 unable to compel or   
persuade  the ,french to leave the      
,spanish people to themselves in ,spain1
 8called a  new world into existence to 
restore the balance in the old10 and    
recognized the independence of the      
,spanish ,american colonies4    ,in     
#ahbi ,ferdinand ,,vii4 married1 as his 
fourth wife1 ,maria ,christina of       
,naples1 a sister of the ,duchesse de   
,berri2 #c and on ,october #aj1 #ahcj1  
the queen gave birth to a daughter1 who 

was christened ,isabella1  afterwards so
 well known as ,isabel ,,ii4 of ,spain4 
#d;a  ,the king1 her  father1           
immediately issued a ,pragmatic         
,sanction1 declaring the ,salic law  to 
be of no effect in ,spain2 and the young
 princess was accordingly  recognized as
 heir-apparent to the crown4  ,a formal 
protest was made by  ,king ,ferdinand's 
younger brother1 ,don ,carlos1 who found
 himself thus  excluded from the        
succession1 against this decree1 and who
 soon  afterwards quitted ,spain4    ,on
 ,michaelmas ,day1 #ahcc1 ,ferdinand    
,,vii4 died1 and his daughter ,isabella 
was immediately proclaimed queen1 as    
,isabel ,,ii41 with her mother ,doa     
,cristina as regent1 #d;b of ,spain     
throughout ,spain4    ,don ,carlos1 who 
had taken refuge in ,portugal1 found    
himself unable to  cross the frontier1  
and was constrained to make his way from
 ,lisbon by  sea to ,london1 and thence 
by way of ,france into the ,basque      
provinces1  where he arrived in         

,september1 #ahcd4  ,thus were founded  
the ,carlist and  the ,cristino parties2
 and on the side of the former were at  
once ranged  all the ,basques1 and the  
representatives of the absolutist and   
ultra-clerical party throughout ,spain4 
,don ,carlos himself1 unable to cross   
the frontier1 #d;c made his way from    
,portugal to ,england1 and thence       
through ,france 7,may1 #ahcd71 where his
  pretensions were not unfavourably     
regarded1 into ,northern ,spain         
7,september1 #ahcd74  ,mendizabal1 a    
,cadiz ,jew of much financial skill1 who
  had acquired great experience and some
 consideration in ,england during  his  
exile from #ahbc to #ahcc1 became ,prime
 ,minister of the ,regency4             
,,part ,,ii4      ,on the outbreak of   
hostilities in the north-west1 the most 
capable  commander on the side of the   
,carlists was the ,basque1 ,toms        
,zumalacarregui4  ,born at ,ormastegui1 
in ,guipuzcoa1 in #aghh1 he had served  
in the ,spanish army from #ahjh to #ahca

 without finding any special favour  or 
advancement from king or ,cortes4       
,dismissed the service in #ahca1 he     
emerged from his retirement on the death
 of ,ferdinand ,,vii4 in #ahcc1 and1    
openly attaching himself to the ,carlist
 fortunes1 he took the field  against   
the queen's troops at the head of some  
eight hundred partisans4  ,so great was 
his zeal and energy1 and so popular was 
,zumalacarregui  himself in his native  
,guipuzcoa1 that in less than a year    
this little  force had grown in his     
hands into an army of over thirty-five  
thousand  men1 superior not only in     
fighting qualities1 but even in         
discipline1 to  any of the queen's      
forces1 fairly armed1 and well supplied 
with food and  clothing4    ,but in     
spite of his commanding qualities1 which
 made him indispensable to  the ,carlist
 cause1 the success of the blunt and    
robust soldier excited  the jealousy1   
not only of his subordinate commanders1 
and of the priests  and women who had so

 great an influence at the court of ,don
 ,carlos1 but  even of the ,pretender   
himself4    ,the only general who may be
 compared with ,zumalacarregui on the   
,carlist  side was born at ,tortosa1 at 
the mouth of the ,ebro1 as late as      
,december1  #ahjf1 and was thus nearly  
twenty years younger than the ,basque   
commander4    ,cabrera was destined for 
the priesthood1 and actually received   
the  tonsura in #ahbe1 but in #ahcc he  
quitted the convent of the  ,trinitarios
 at ,tortosa and joined the ,carlist    
army near the historic  mountain        
fortress of ,morella in ,november1      
#ahcc2 and in less than twelve  months  
he had been appointed a colonel in the  
,carlist army in ,aragon4    ,on the    
side of the ,constitutionalists there   
was no display of military  talent1 or  
even of capacity4  ,rodil1 ,amildez1    
,mina1 ,valdez1 followed each  other    
without advantage to the queen's cause1 
and in spite of all the  advantages     
incident to a regular government1 with  

command of the capital  and all the     
departments1 little or no advantage was 
gained by the  ,constitutional forces   
for long after the first outbreak of    
hostilities4  ,the war1 however1 was    
carried on by both ,cristinos and       
,carlists with  the utmost savagery4    
,the wholesale massacre of wounded and  
prisoners by both the ,cristino  and    
,carlist generals aroused the           
indignation of every civilized          
community1 and especially in ,england1  
where an uneasy sense of  responsibility
 for the atrocities which were committed
 was natural in  view of the fact that  
the government had taken to some extent 
an official  part in the war1 and that  
,english regiments were soon to be      
exposed to  the cruelties against which 
the whole of ,europe was protesting4    
,the  pressure of public opinion in     
,england1 indeed1 was so strong that at 
length ,lord ,eliot was despatched to   
,spain to negotiate a convention        
between the belligerents which would    

ensure the ordinary laws of  civilized  
warfare being obeyed4  ,it was a        
difficult task4 #g;a    ,but by the     
exertions of ,lord ,eliot and ,colonel  
,wylde of the ,royal  ,artillery1 who   
was serving as a kind of military attach
 at the  head-quarters of the queen's   
forces1 a convention1 known as the      
8,eliot  ,convention10 was at length    
signed by ,zumalacarregui at or near    
,logroo1  on ,april #bg and #bh1 #ahce4 
,the convention1 as might have been     
supposed1 was in practice regarded by   
neither party1 and was evaded when not  
actually set at nought4  ,it was  said  
not to apply to any part of ,spain but  
the ,basque provinces1 nor to  any      
troops enlisted after its signature in  
,april2 but the massacre of  prisoners  
was possibly not so systematically      
carried out after the  agreement as it  
had been before4  ,but1 strangest of    
all1 as soon as the  news of the        
signature of this convention became     
known at ,madrid1 the  utmost           

indignation was expressed1 not only by  
the populace of ,madrid1 but  in the    
,cortes4  ,an attempt was made to kill  
,seor ,martinez de la ,rosa in  the     
streets by an armed mob1 and the        
ministry was compelled to resign4       
,count ,toreno was then called to the   
supreme power on ,june #g1 with         
,mendizabal as finance minister4        
,meanwhile the military skill of        
,zumalacarregui in the ,basque          
provinces1  and of ,cabrera in the east 
of ,spain1 had alone prolonged the      
struggle  during #ahcd and #ahce2 but   
the death of ,zumalacarregui from a     
wound  received in action near ,bilbao  
in ,june1 #ahce1 was a serious blow to  
the  hopes of the ,pretender1 although  
there are good grounds for supposing    
that the bold general's end was hastened
 by poison administered by his  own     
partisans4 #h    ,in the month of ,april
 of this same year1 #ahce1 ,lord        
,palmerston1 who1  after a brief        
retirement from office in #ahcd1 was    

once more ,foreign  ,secretary in       
,london1 had sanctioned the enlisting of
 an army of ten  thousand men in        
,england1 which1 under the command of   
,colonel1 afterwards  ,sir de ,lacy     
,evans1 landed at ,san ,sebastian in    
,august to assist the  government of the
 regency to put down the ,carlists in   
the northwest4  ,there was already a    
,british ,auxiliary ,contingent attached
 to the ,spanish  army1 and the ,british
 ,naval ,squadron1 under ,lord ,john    
,hay1 assisted the  ,cristinos on the   
coast between ,bilbao and ,santander4   
,but neither the native nor the ,british
 supporters of the regent were at  this 
time successful in the ,basque          
provinces4  ,bilbao was for many months 
besieged1 and was at length relieved    
only in the month of ,december1 #ahcf1  
by the ,english forces co-operating with
 ,espartero1 who was created1 for  his  
share in the victory1 ,count of         
,luchana4    ,the ministry of ,count    
,toreno had lasted only from ,june to   

,september  7#ahce71 when ,mendizabal   
assumed the chief direction of affairs2 
and it  was just two months later       
7,november1 #ahce7 that ,george ,borrow 
first set  foot on the soil of the      
,peninsula4    ,mendizabal continued to 
be ,prime ,minister until ,may1 #ahcf1  
when he was  succeeded by a coalition   
ministry of ,isturitz1 ,galiano and the 
,duke of  ,rivas 7see text1 p4 #aha71   
under whose administration took place   
the  military riots at ,madrid 7,august 
#aa1 #ab71 which were most bravely      
repressed by ,general ,quesada1 the     
commandant of the city1 as so           
graphically recorded by ,borrow 7pp4    
#bjb-bje74  ,yet ,quesada's valour was  
of no avail4  ,the decree of ,la        
,granja1 of ,august #ac and #ad1        
extorted from  the fears of the queen   
regent by actual threats of military    
violence1 was  followed by the          
precipitate flight of ,isturitz and     
,galiano to ,france1 and  of the ,duke  
of ,rivas to ,gibraltar1 and the        

assumption of power by ,seor            
,calatrava1 with ,mendizabal as         
,minister of ,finance4  ,quesada was    
murdered1  as is said and sung on p4    
#bjf of the text4    ,if the ,cristino  
cause had made but little progress in   
#ahcf1 there was  even less             
encouragement to be found in the result 
of the military  operations in the      
earlier part of #ahcg4  ,general ,evans 
was defeated at  ,hernani1 near ,san    
,sebastian1 in ,march1 and although     
,lord ,john ,hay with  his ,english     
mariners took ,irun1 ,don ,carlos was   
allowed to march almost  unopposed upon 
the capital4  ,on ,september #ab1 he    
found himself within  four leagues of   
,madrid1 and had it not been for his own
 poltroonery and  the jealousy and      
incompetence of those by whom he was    
surrounded1 he  might have ridden into  
the ,puerta del ,sol on the next day as 
,king of  ,spain4  ,but1 dis aliter     
visum and all undefeated1 he turned his 
back  upon ,la ,corte1 and marched      

northwards with no apparent reason or   
policy1  closely pressed by the new     
commander-in-chief of the ,cristino     
forces1 a  man whose name is            
distinguished above that of any of his  
fellows in the  contemporary history of 
his country4    ,baldomero ,espartero1  
the son of a village wheelwright in ,la 
,mancha1 was  born in #agib4  ,destined1
 like ,cabrera1 for the priesthood1 he  
took up  arms on the ,french invasion in
 #ahjh1 and at the conclusion of the    
,war of  ,independence in #ahad obtained
 a military position in ,peru1 in which 
he  had an opportunity of distinguishing
 himself4  ,after the capitulation of   
,ayacucho1 when the independence of     
,peru was finally recognized1 ,espartero
  returned to ,spain1 and after some ten
 years of uneventful but honoured       
service in the home army he found       
himself1 in #ahcc1 entrusted with an    
important command in the queen's army4  
,indolent and yet ambitious1  dilatory  
and yet vigorous when opportunity       

offered1 loyal and yet  politically     
untrustworthy1 ,espartero flourished in 
the troublous times in  which he found  
himself1 and made a name for himself    
both in camp and  court2 and having1 as 
we have seen1 been created ,count of    
,luchana on the  relief of ,bilbao1 he  
had taken the place of ,seor ,calatrava 
as ,prime  ,minister in ,august1 #ahcg1 
and was succeeded in the following      
,october by  ,don ,jos ,maria ,perez1   
who in turn gave place to ,ofalia on    
,november #cj  7see text1 vol4 ii4 pp4  
#ajj1 #aba71 when ,espartero returned to
 ,madrid as  ,minister of ,war4         
,cabrera meanwhile was ravaging ,aragon 
and ,valencia1 and continued not  only  
absolutely to disregard the ,eliot      
,convention1 and to massacre all  the   
military prisoners that surrendered to  
him1 but to put to death the  women and 
even the children that fell into his    
hands4    ,but with the war in ,aragon  
and ,catalonia1 the readers of ,borrow's
 ,bible  in ,spain have happily no need 

further to concern themselves4    ,the  
,british legion1 which1 after two years'
 evil fortune was at length  becoming a 
force of some military value1 was broken
 up and sent back to  ,london at the    
expense of the ,british treasury1 though
 a remnant elected  to remain in the    
,peninsula1 which did good service until
 the close of the  year as the 8,british
 ,auxiliary ,brigade40    ,in the spring
 of #ahch ,espartero once more assumed  
the command of the  queen's army with   
the title of captain-general1 and gained
 an indecisive  victory over the        
,carlists at ,peacerrada1 between       
,logroo and ,vitoria1 in  ,june1 #ahch2 
while ,cabrera was able to repulse the  
queen's forces who  sought to drive him 
from the strong position he had taken up
 at ,aragon4    ,the ministry resigned  
in ,august1 and the ,duke of ,frias     
presided over a  short-lived cabinet1   
for in ,december1 #ahch1 a new ministry 
was formed  under ,seor ,perez de       
,castro2 and ,espartero1 at length      

assuming the  offensive with some       
vigour1 was enabled1 by the treachery of
 the ,carlist  general ,maroto1 to march
 unopposed into ,ordua1 the ancient     
capital of  ,biscay1 in ,may1 #ahci4    
,after this practical victory ,espartero
 was hailed as the saviour of his       
country1 and received the title of      
,duque de la ,victoria4  ,dissension    
soon  completed what treachery had so   
well begun4    ,even among the strong   
partisan officials of ,don ,carlos there
 were three  parties1 viz4  ,marotistas1
 men whose professed object was to force
 ,don  ,carlos to leave ,spain1 and to  
bring about a marriage between his son  
and  the young queen1 which1 combined   
with a modified constitution1 might     
pacify ,spain2 secondly1 a party headed 
by ,villa ,real and ,marco del ,pont1   
having for its object the establishment 
of ,don ,carlos on the throne1 with     
powers limited by a permanent ,cortes2  
and thirdly1 the bigoted ,absolutist    
party1 headed by ,cabrera and ,teijeiro4

    ,in all these circumstances it was  
not surprising that the abandonment of  
,ordua in ,may should have been         
followed1 after a good deal of intrigue 
and very little fighting1 by the        
,convention of ,vergara on the last day 
of  ,august4    ,don ,carlos immediately
 fled to ,france1 and was housed by the 
,french  government at ,bourges1 where  
he continued to hold his court1 and the 
war  in ,north-,western ,spain was at an
 end4    ,cabrera1 however1 would have  
nothing to say to the ,convention of    
,vergara1  and the spring of #ahdj saw  
,espartero at the head of a powerful    
force  before the celebrated fortress of
 ,morella1 which surrendered in ,may4   
,cabrera was finally defeated by        
,espartero at ,lerida in the following  
,july1 and ,spain at length enjoyed a   
desolate peace4          ,,note4        
,before ,mr4 ,burke had seen any part of
 this edition in print1 he was  suddenly
 summoned to ,south ,america1 as        
mentioned in his note 7i4 #aij71  and   

accepted my suggestion that ,i should   
revise and correct the proofs4  ,his    
death shortly after leaving ,england has
 deprived me of a valued  friend1 and   
the book of the advantage of his final  
revision4  ,while fully  sensible of the
 disadvantages which this must involve1 
,i hope that the  errors thus caused    
will not prove so grave or so numerous  
as seriously to  detract from the value 
of the edition4  ,my best thanks are due
 to the  many friends who have helped   
me1 especially in the preparation of the
  ,glossary1 which has considerably     
outgrown the original draft4            
,,herbert ,w4 ,,greene4    ,,magdalen   
,,college1 ,,oxford1        ,november1  
#ahie4          ,,borrow',s ,,journeys  
,,in ,,the ,,peninsula4      #a4--,nov4 
#ahce4  ,belem 7#aath ,nov471 ,lisbon   
7#abth71 ,cintra1 ,colhares1  ,mafra1   
,aldea ,gallega 7#fth ,dec471 ,peges1   
,vendas ,novas1 ,monte ,moro1  ,evora   
7#ith-#agth72 returns to ,lisbon        
7#aith71 where he remains about a       

fortnight4    ,aldea ,gallega1 ,peges1  
,vendas ,novas1 ,monte ,moro1           
,arroyolos1 ,estremoz1  ,elvas1 ,badajoz
 7#eth ,jan4 #ahcf71 where he remains   
three weeks4  ,merida1  where he remains
 three days4  ,trujillo1 ,jaraicejo1    
,mirabete1  ,oropesa7871 ,talavera1     
,madrid 7about #eth ,feb474             
#b4--,nov4 #ahcf4  ,falmouth 7#gth      
,nov471 ,finisterre 7#aath71 ,lisbon    
7#acth71  ,cadiz 7starts on #bdth71 ,san
 ,lucar1 ,bonanza1 ,seville1 where he   
remains  about a fortnight4  ,alcal de  
,guadaira1 ,carmona1 ,moncloa1 ,cuesta  
del  ,espinal1 ,cordova 7on third day   
from ,seville71 where he remains some   
time4  ,andujar1 ,bailen1 ,carolina 7on 
third day from ,cordova71 ,despea       
,perros1 ,aranjuez 7#beth ,dec471       
,madrid 7#bfth74    #c4--,may1 #ahcg4   
,madrid 7about #aeth71 ,guadarrama1     
,pearanda1 ,salamanca 7on  third day    
from ,madrid71 where he remains till    
#ajth ,june4  ,pitiegua1  ,pedroso1     
,medina del ,campo1 ,valladolid1 where  

he remains about ten days4  ,dueas1     
,palencia1 ,cisneros1 ,sahagun or       
,calzada1 ,leon 7#bast71 where he       
remains about ten days4  ,astorga1 where
 he remains three days4  ,manzanal1     
,bembibre1 ,cacabelos1 ,villafranca1    
,fuencebadon1 ,nogales1 ,lugo1 where  he
 remains a week4 ,castellanos1          
,betanzos1 ,corunna1 where he remains   
about a fortnight4  ,santiago 7early in 
,aug471 where he remains about a        
fortnight4  ,padron1 ,caldas de ,reyes1 
,pontevedra1 ,vigo1 where he remains a  
few days4  ,padron1 ,los ,angeles1      
,noyo1 ,corcuvion1 ,duyo1 ,finisterre1  
,corcuvion1 whence he returns to        
,santiago and ,corunna4  ,ferrol1 where 
he  remains about a week4  ,novales1    
,santa ,marta1 ,coisa ,doiro1 ,viveiro1 
,foz1 ,rivadeo1 ,castro ,pol1 ,navias1  
,baralla1 ,luarca1 ,caneiro1 ,soto      
,luino1 ,muros1 ,veles 78  ,aviles71    
,gijon1 ,oviedo1 where he remains about 
a  week4  ,villa ,viciosa1 ,colunga1    
,ribida de ,sella 7 ,riba de ,sella71   

,llanes1  ,santo ,colombo1 ,san         
,vicente1 ,santillana1 ,santander1 where
 he remains  some days4  ,montaneda1    
,oas1 ,burgos1 ,valladolid1 ,guadarrama1
 ,madrid  7some time after #abth        
,sept474  ,hence visits ,toledo1 and1 in
 #ahch1  ,leganez1 ,villa ,seca1        
,vargas1 ,cobeja1 ,mocejon1             
,villaluenga1 ,yuncler1  #ad;a          
,aranjuez1 ,ocaa1 returning to ,madrid4 
,hence visits ,la ,granja 7  ,san       
,ildefonso74  ,segovia1 ,abades1        
,labajos1 ,arevalo1 ,martin ,muoz1      
,villallos1 returning to ,madrid4       
#d4--;,dec4 #ahch4  ,cadiz 7#cast71     
,seville1 where he remains about a      
fortnight4  ,manzanares1 ,madrid4       
,hence visits ,cobea and other villages 
to the east  of ,madrid4  ,victoriano   
7see ch4 xlvi47 visits ,caramanchel1    
,alcal de  ,henares1 ,fuente la         
,higuera1 ,guadalajara4  ,borrow visits 
,naval ,carnero  7about the middle of   
,march1 #ahcj74  ,leaves ,madrid for    
,seville 7about the  middle of ,april74 

,leaves ,seville 7#cast ,july7 for      
,cadiz1 thence by sea to  ,gibraltar1   
whence1 on #hth ,aug41 he sets sail for 
,tangier1 landing next  day4            
,,note4--,places enclosed in square     
brackets are not marked on the map4     
,picture3 ,map of ,spain with ,borrow's 
journeys marked          ,,chapter ,i4  
,man overboard--,the ,tagus--,foreign   
,languages--,gesticulation--,streets of 
,lisbon--,the ,aqueduct--,bible         
tolerated in ,portugal--,cintra--,don   
,sebastian--,john  de                   
,castro--,conversation with a           
,priest--,colhares--,mafra--,its        
,palace--,the  ,schoolmaster--,the      
,portuguese--,their ,ignorance of       
,scripture--,rural  ,priesthood--,the   
,alemtejo4    ,on the morning of        
,november #aj1 #ahce1 #a ,i found myself
 off the coast of  ,galicia1 whose lofty
 mountains1 gilded by the rising sun1   
presented a  magnificent appearance4  ,i
 was bound for ,lisbon2 we passed ,cape 
,finisterre1 and1 standing farther out  

to sea1 speedily lost sight of  land4   
,on the morning of the #aath the sea was
 very rough1 and a  remarkable          
circumstance occurred4  ,i was on the   
forecastle1 discoursing  with two of the
 sailors3 one of them1 who had but just 
left his hammock1  said1 8,i have had a 
strange dream1 which ,i do not much     
like2 for10  continued he1 pointing up  
to the mast1 8,i dreamt that ,i fell    
into the sea  from the cross-trees40    
,he was heard to say this by several of 
the crew  besides myself4  ,a moment    
after the captain of the vessel1        
perceiving  that the squall was         
increasing1 ordered the topsails to be  
taken in1  whereupon this man1 with     
several others1 instantly ran aloft2 the
 yard  was in the act of being hauled   
down1 when a sudden gust of wind whirled
  it round with violence1 and a man was 
struck down from the cross-trees  into  
the sea1 which was working like yeast   
below4  ,in a short time he  emerged2 ,i
 saw his head on the crest of a billow1 

and instantly  recognized in the        
unfortunate man the sailor who1 a few   
moments before1  had related his dream4 
,i shall never forget the look of agony 
he cast  whilst the steamer hurried past
 him4  ,the alarm was given1 and        
everything  was in confusion2 it was two
 minutes at least before the vessel was 
stopped1 by which time the man was a    
considerable way astern3 ,i still1      
however1 kept my eye upon him1 and could
 see that he was struggling  gallantly  
with the waves4  ,a boat was at length  
lowered1 but the rudder  was            
unfortunately not at hand1 and only two 
oars could be procured1 with  which the 
men could make but little progress in so
 rough a sea4  ,they did  their best1   
however1 and had arrived within ten     
yards of the man1 who  still struggled  
for his life1 when ,i lost sight of him2
 and the men1 on  their return1 said    
that they saw him below the water1 at   
glimpses1  sinking deeper and deeper1   
his arms stretched out and his body     

apparently  stiff1 but that they found  
it impossible to save him4  ,presently  
after1  the sea1 as if satisfied with   
the prey which it had acquired1 became  
comparatively calm4  ,the poor fellow   
who perished in this singular manner    
was a fine young man of twenty-seven1   
the only son of a widowed mother2  he   
was the best sailor on board1 and was   
beloved by all who were  acquainted with
 him4  ,this event occurred on the #aath
 of ,november1 #ahce2  the vessel was   
the ,london ,merchant steamship4  ,truly
 wonderful are the  ways of ,providence6
    ,that same night we entered the     
,tagus1 and dropped anchor before the   
old  tower of ,belem2 #c;a early the    
next morning we weighed1 and1 proceeding
  onward about a league1 we again       
anchored at a short distance from the   
,caesodr1 #c;b or principal quay of     
,lisbon4  ,here we lay for some hours   
beside the enormous black hulk of the   
,rainha ,nao1 a man-of-war which in  old
 times so captivated the eye of ,nelson1

 that he would fain have  procured it   
for his native country4  ,she was1 long 
subsequently1 the  admiral's ship of the
 ,miguelite squadron1 and had been      
captured by the  gallant ,napier #c;c   
about three years previous to the time  
of which ,i am  speaking4    ,the       
,rainha ,nao is said to have caused him 
more trouble than all the  other vessels
 of the enemy2 and some assert that1 had
 the others defended  themselves with   
half the fury which the old vixen queen 
displayed1 the  result of the battle    
which decided the fate of ,portugal     
would have been  widely different4    ,i
 found disembarkation at ,lisbon to be a
 matter of considerable vexation2  the  
custom-house officers were exceedingly  
uncivil1 and examined every  article of 
my little baggage with most provoking   
minuteness4    ,my first impression on  
landing in the ,peninsula was by no     
means a  favourable one2 and ,i had     
scarcely pressed the soil one hour      
before ,i  heartily wished myself back  

in ,russia1 a country which ,i had      
quitted  about one month previous1 and  
where ,i had left cherished friends and 
warm  affections4    ,after having      
submitted to much ill usage and robbery 
at the custom-house1  ,i proceeded in   
quest of a lodging1 and at last found   
one1 but dirty and  expensive4  ,the    
next day ,i hired a servant1 a          
,portuguese1 it being my  invariable    
custom1 on arriving in a country1 to    
avail myself of the  services of a      
native1 chiefly with the view of        
perfecting myself in the  language2 and1
 being already acquainted with most of  
the principal  languages and dialects of
 the east and the west1 ,i am soon able 
to make  myself quite intelligible to   
the inhabitants4  ,in about a fortnight 
,i  found myself conversing in          
,portuguese with considerable fluency4  
,those who wish to make themselves      
understood by a foreigner in his own    
language should speak with much noise   
and vociferation1 opening their  mouths 

wide4  ,is it surprising that the       
,english are1 in general1 the  worst    
linguists in the world1 seeing that they
 pursue a system  diametrically         
opposite8  ,for example1 when they      
attempt to speak  ,spanish--the most    
sonorous tongue in existence--they      
scarcely open their  lips1 and1 putting 
their hands in their pockets1 fumble    
lazily1 instead  of applying them to the
 indispensable office of gesticulation4 
,well may  the poor ,spaniards exclaim1 
,these ,english talk so crabbedly1 that 
,satan himself would not be able to     
understand them4    ,lisbon is a huge   
ruinous city1 still exhibiting1 in      
almost every  direction1 the vestiges of
 that terrific visitation of ,god1 the  
earthquake1 which shattered it some     
eighty years ago4  ,it stands on seven  
hills1 the loftiest of which is occupied
 by the castle of ,saint ,george1  which
 is the boldest and most prominent      
object to the eye1 whilst  surveying the
 city from the ,tagus4  ,the most       

frequented and busy parts of  the city  
are those comprised within the valley to
 the north of this  elevation4    ,here 
you find the ,plaza of the ,inquisition1
 the principal square in  ,lisbon1 #e   
from which run parallel1 towards the    
river1 three or four  streets1 amongst  
which are those of the gold and silver1 
so designated  from being inhabited by  
smiths cunning in the working of those  
metals2  they are1 upon the whole1 very 
magnificent4  ,the houses are huge1 and 
as  high as castles4  ,immense pillars  
defend the causeway at intervals1       
producing1 however1 rather a cumbrous   
effect4  ,these streets are quite       
level1 and are well paved1 in which     
respect they differ from all the  others
 in ,lisbon4  ,the most singular street1
 however1 of all is that of  the        
,alecrim1 or ,rosemary1 which debouches 
on the ,caesodr4  ,it is  very          
precipitous1 and is occupied on either  
side by the palaces of the  principal   
,portuguese nobility1 massive and       

frowning1 but grand and  picturesque    
edifices1 with here and there a hanging 
garden1 overlooking  the street at a    
great height4    ,with all its ruin and 
desolation1 ,lisbon is unquestionably   
the most  remarkable city in the        
,peninsula1 and1 perhaps1 in the south  
of ,europe4  ,it is not my intention to 
enter into minute details concerning it2
 ,i  shall content myself with remarking
 that it is quite as much deserving  the
 attention of the artist as even ,rome  
itself4  ,true it is that1 though  it   
abounds with churches1 it has no        
gigantic cathedral1 like ,st4 ,peter's1 
to attract the eye and fill it with     
wonder1 yet ,i boldly say that there  is
 no monument of man's labour and skill1 
pertaining either to ancient or  modern 
,rome1 for whatever purpose designed1   
which can rival the  water-works of     
,lisbon2 ,i mean the stupendous aqueduct
 whose principal  arches cross the      
valley to the north-east of ,lisbon1 and
 which discharges  its little runnel of 

cool and delicious water into the rocky 
cistern  within that beautiful edifice  
called the ,mother of the ,waters1 from 
whence all ,lisbon is supplied with the 
crystal lymph1 though the source  is    
seven leagues distant4  ,let travellers 
devote one entire morning to  inspecting
 the ,arcos and the ,mai das agoas1     
after which they may  repair to the     
,english church and cemetery1           
,pre-la-,chaise in miniature1  where1 if
 they be of ,england1 they may well be  
excused if they kiss the  cold tomb1 as 
,i did1 of the author of 8,amelia10 #f;a
 the most singular  genius which their  
island ever produced1 whose works it has
 long been the  fashion to abuse in     
public and to read in secret4  ,in the  
same cemetery  rest the mortal remains  
of ,doddridge1 another ,english author  
of a  different stamp1 but justly       
admired and esteemed4 #f;b  ,i had not  
intended1 on disembarking1 to remain    
long in ,lisbon1 nor indeed in          
,portugal2 my destination was ,spain1   

whither ,i shortly proposed to direct   
my steps1 it being the intention of the 
,bible ,society to attempt to  commence 
operations in that country1 the object  
of which should be the  distribution of 
the word of ,god1 for ,spain had        
hitherto been a region  barred against  
the admission of the ,bible2 not so     
,portugal1 where1 since  the revolution1
 the ,bible had been permitted both to  
be introduced and  circulated4  ,little1
 however1 had been accomplished2        
therefore1 finding  myself in the       
country1 ,i determined1 if possible1 to 
effect something in  the way of         
distribution1 but first of all to make  
myself acquainted as to  how far the    
people were disposed to receive the     
,bible1 and whether the  state of       
education in general would permit them  
to turn it to much  account4  ,i had    
plenty of ,bibles and ,testaments at my 
disposal1 but could  the people read    
them1 or would they8  ,a friend of the  
,society to whom ,i  was recommended was

 absent from ,lisbon at the period of my
 arrival2 this  ,i regretted1 as he     
could have afforded me several useful   
hints4  ,in  order1 however1 that no    
time might be lost1 ,i determined not to
 wait for  his arrival1 but at once     
proceed to gather the best information  
,i could  upon those points to which ,i 
have already alluded4  ,i determined to 
commence my researches at some slight   
distance from ,lisbon1 being well  aware
 of the erroneous ideas that ,i must    
form of the ,portuguese in  general1    
should ,i judge of their character and  
opinions from what ,i saw  and heard in 
a city so much subjected to foreign     
intercourse4    ,my first excursion was 
to ,cintra4 #g;b  ,if there be any place
 in the  world entitled to the          
appellation of an enchanted region1 it  
is surely  ,cintra2 ,tivoli #h;a is a   
beautiful and picturesque place1 but it 
quickly  fades from the mind of those   
who have seen the ,portuguese ,paradise4
  ,when  speaking of ,cintra1 it must   

not for a moment be supposed that       
nothing  more is meant than the little  
town or city2 by ,cintra must be        
understood  the entire region1 town1    
palace1 quintas1 forests1 crags1        
,moorish ruin1  which suddenly burst on 
the view on rounding the side of a      
bleak1 savage1  and sterile-looking     
mountain4  ,nothing is more sullen and  
uninviting than  the south-western      
aspect of the stony wall which1 on the  
side of ,lisbon1  seems to shield       
,cintra from the eye of the world1 but  
the other side is a  mingled scene of   
fairy beauty1 artificial elegance1      
savage grandeur1  domes1 turrets1       
enormous trees1 flowers1 and waterfalls1
 such as is met  with nowhere else      
beneath the sun4  ,oh6 there are strange
 and wonderful  objects at ,cintra1 and 
strange and wonderful recollections     
attached to  them4  ,the ruin on that   
lofty peak1 and which covers part of the
 side of  that precipitous steep1 was   
once the principal stronghold of the    

,lusitanian ,moors1 and thither1 long   
after they had disappeared1 at a        
particular moon of every year1 were wont
 to repair wild santons of  ,maugrabie1 
to pray at the tomb of a famous ,sidi1  
who slumbers amongst  the rocks4  ,that 
grey palace witnessed the assemblage of 
the last ,cortes  held by the boy-king  
,sebastian1 #h;b ere he departed on his 
romantic  expedition against the ,moors1
 who so well avenged their insulted     
faith  and country at ,alcazar-quibir2  
#i;a and in that low shady quinta1      
embowered amongst those tall            
alcornoques1 once dwelt ,john de        
,castro1  #i;b the strange old viceroy  
of ,goa1 who pawned the hairs of his    
dead  son's beard to raise money to     
repair the ruined wall of a fortress    
threatened by the heathen of ,ind2 those
 crumbling stones which stand  before   
the portal1 deeply graven1 not with     
8runes10 but things equally  dark1      
,sanscrit rhymes from the ,vedas1 were  
brought by him from ,goa1 the  most     

brilliant scene of his glory1 before    
,portugal had become a base  kingdom2   
and down that dingle1 on an abrupt rocky
 promontory1 stand the  ruined halls of 
the ,english millionaire1 #i;c who there
 nursed the  wayward fancies of a mind  
as wild1 rich1 and variegated as the    
scenes  around4  ,yes1 wonderful are the
 objects which meet the eye at ,cintra1 
and  wonderful are the recollections    
attached to them4    ,the town of       
,cintra contains about eight hundred    
inhabitants4  ,the morning  subsequent  
to my arrival1 as ,i was about to ascend
 the mountain for the  purpose of       
examining the ,moorish ruins1 ,i        
observed a person advancing  towards me 
whom ,i judged by his dress to be an    
ecclesiastic2 he was in  fact one of the
 three priests of the place4  ,i        
instantly accosted him1  and had no     
reason to regret doing so2 ,i found him 
affable and  communicative4    ,after   
praising the beauty of the surrounding  
scenery1 ,i made some inquiry  as to the

 state of education amongst the people  
under his care4  ,he  answered that he  
was sorry to say that they were in a    
state of great  ignorance1 very few of  
the common people being able either to  
read or  write2 that with respect to    
schools1 there was but one in the place1
  where four or five children were      
taught the alphabet1 but that even this 
was at present closed4  ,he informed me1
 however1 that there was a school  at   
,colhares1 about a league distant4      
,amongst other things1 he said that     
nothing more surprised him than to see  
,englishmen1 the most learned and       
intelligent people in the world1        
visiting a place like ,cintra1 where    
there was no literature1 science1 nor   
anything of utility 7coisa que  presta74
  ,i suspect that there was some covert 
satire in the last speech  of the worthy
 priest2 ,i was1 however1 ,jesuit enough
 to appear to receive  it as a high     
compliment1 and1 taking off my hat1     
departed with an  infinity of bows4     

,that same day ,i visited ,colhares1 a  
romantic village on the side of the     
mountain of ,cintra1 to the northwest4  
,seeing some peasants collected  round a
 smithy1 ,i inquired about the school1  
whereupon one of the men  instantly     
conducted me thither4  ,i went upstairs 
into a small apartment1  where ,i found 
the master with about a dozen pupils    
standing in a row2 ,i  saw but one stool
 in the room1 and to that1 after having 
embraced me1 he  conducted me with great
 civility4  ,after some discourse1 he   
showed me the  books which he used for  
the instruction of the children2 they   
were  spelling-books1 much of the same  
kind as those used in the village       
schools in ,england4  ,upon my asking   
him whether it was his practice to      
place the ,scriptures in the hands of   
the children1 he informed me that  long 
before they had acquired sufficient     
intelligence to understand them  they   
were removed by their parents1 in order 
that they might assist in  the labours  

of the field1 and that the parents in   
general were by no  means solicitous    
that their children should learn        
anything1 as they  considered the time  
occupied in learning as so much         
squandered away4  ,he  said that1 though
 the schools were nominally supported by
 the government1  it was rarely that the
 schoolmasters could obtain their       
salaries1 on  which account many had of 
late resigned their employments4  ,he   
told me  that he had a copy of the ,new 
,testament in his possession1 which ,i  
desired to see2 but on examining it ,i  
discovered that it was only the         
,epistles by ,pereira1 #aa with copious 
notes4  ,i asked him whether he         
considered that there was harm in       
reading the ,scriptures without notes3  
he replied that there was certainly no  
harm in it1 but that simple  people1    
without the help of notes1 could derive 
but little benefit from  ,scripture1 as 
the greatest part would be              
unintelligible to them2  whereupon ,i   

shook hands with him1 and1 on departing1
 said that there was  no part of        
,scripture so difficult to understand as
 those very notes which  were intended  
to elucidate it1 and that it would never
 have been written  if not calculated of
 itself to illume the minds of all      
classes of  mankind4    ,in a day or two
 ,i made an excursion to ,mafra1 distant
 about three leagues  from ,cintra4     
,the principal part of the way lay over 
steep hills1  somewhat dangerous for    
horses2 however1 ,i reached the place in
 safety4    ,mafra #ab is a large       
village in the neighbourhood of an      
immense  building1 intended to serve as 
a convent and palace1 and which is built
  somewhat after the fashion of the     
,escurial4  ,in this edifice exists the 
finest library in ,portugal1 containing 
books on all sciences and in all        
languages1 and well suited to the size  
and grandeur of the edifice which       
contains it4  ,there were no monks1     
however1 to take care of it1 as in      

former times2 they had been driven      
forth1 some to beg their bread1 some  to
 serve under the banners of ,don        
,carlos1 in ,spain1 and many1 as ,i was 
informed1 to prowl about as banditti4   
,i found the place abandoned to two  or 
three menials1 and exhibiting an aspect 
of solitude and desolation  truly       
appalling4  ,whilst ,i was viewing the  
cloisters1 a fine  intelligent-looking  
lad came up and asked 7,i suppose in the
 hope of  obtaining a trifle7 whether ,i
 would permit him to show me the village
  church1 which he informed me was well 
worth seeing2 ,i said no1 but added1    
that if he would show me the village    
school ,i should feel much obliged to   
him4  ,he looked at me with             
astonishment1 and assured me that there 
was  nothing to be seen at the school1  
which did not contain more than half a  
dozen boys1 and that he himself was one 
of the number4  ,on my telling  him1    
however1 that he should show me no other
 place1 he at length  unwillingly       

attended me4  ,on the way ,i learned    
from him that the  schoolmaster was one 
of the friars who had lately been       
expelled from the  convent1 that he was 
a very learned man1 and spoke ,french   
and ,greek4  ,we  passed a stone cross1 
and the boy bent his head and crossed   
himself with  much devotion4  ,i mention
 this circumstance1 as it was the first 
instance  of the kind which ,i had      
observed amongst the ,portuguese since  
my arrival4  ,when near the house where 
the schoolmaster resided1 he pointed it 
out to  me1 and then hid himself behind 
a wall1 where he awaited my return4     
,on stepping over the threshold ,i was  
confronted by a short1 stout man1       
between sixty and seventy years of age1 
dressed in a blue jerkin and grey       
trousers1 without shirt or waistcoat4   
,he looked at me sternly1 and  inquired 
in the ,french language what was my     
pleasure4  ,i apologized for  intruding 
upon him1 and stated that1 being        
informed he occupied the  situation of  

schoolmaster1 ,i had come to pay my     
respects to him and to  beg permission  
to ask a few questions respecting the   
seminary4  ,he  answered1 that whoever  
told me he was a schoolmaster lied1 for 
that he  was a friar of the convent1 and
 nothing else4  8,it is not1 then1      
true10  said ,i1 8that all the convents 
have been broken up and the monks       
dismissed80  8,yes1 yes10 said he with a
 sigh1 8it is true2 it is but too       
true40  ,he then was silent for a       
minute1 and1 his better nature          
overcoming his angry feelings1 he       
produced a snuff-box and offered it to  
me4  ,the snuff-box is the olive-branch 
of the ,portuguese1 and he who  wishes  
to be on good terms with them must never
 refuse to dip his finger  and thumb    
into it when offered4  ,i took1         
therefore1 a huge pinch1 though  ,i     
detest the dust1 and we were soon on the
 best possible terms4  ,he was  eager to
 obtain news1 especially from ,lisbon   
and ,spain4  ,i told him that  the      

officers of the troops at ,lisbon had1  
the day before ,i left that  place1 gone
 in a body to the queen1 and insisted   
upon her either  receiving their swords 
or dismissing her ,ministers2 whereupon 
he rubbed  his hands1 and said that he  
was sure matters would not remain       
tranquil at  ,lisbon4  ,on my saying1   
however1 that ,i thought the affairs of 
,don ,carlos  were on the decline 7this 
was shortly after the death of          
,zumalacarregui71  #ad;b he frowned1 and
 cried that it could not possibly be1   
for that ,god  was too just to suffer   
it4  ,i felt for the poor man who had   
been driven  out of his home in the     
noble convent close by1 and from a state
 of  affluence and comfort reduced in   
his old age to indigence and misery1 for
  his present dwelling scarcely seemed  
to contain an article of furniture4  ,i 
tried twice or thrice to induce him to  
converse about the school1 but  he      
either avoided the subject or said      
shortly that he knew nothing about  it4 

,on my leaving him1 the boy came from   
his hiding-place and rejoined  me2 he   
said that he had hidden himself through 
fear of his master's  knowing that he   
had brought me to him1 for that he was  
unwilling that any  stranger should know
 that he was a schoolmaster4    ,i asked
 the boy whether he or his parents were 
acquainted with the  ,scripture1 and    
ever read it2 he did not1 however1 seem 
to understand me4  ,i must here observe 
that the boy was fifteen years of age1  
that he was in  many respects very      
intelligent1 and had some knowledge of  
the ,latin  language2 nevertheless he   
knew not the ,scripture even by name1   
and ,i have  no doubt1 from what ,i     
subsequently observed1 that at least    
two-thirds of  his countrymen are on    
that important point no wiser than      
himself4  ,at the  doors of village     
inns1 at the hearths of the rustics1 in 
the fields where  they labour1 at the   
stone fountains by the wayside where    
they water their  cattle1 ,i have       

questioned the lower class of the       
children of ,portugal  about the        
,scripture1 the ,bible1 the ,old and    
,new ,testament1 and in no one  instance
 have they known what ,i was alluding   
to1 or could return me a  rational      
answer1 though on all other matters     
their replies were sensible  enough2    
indeed1 nothing surprised me more than  
the free and unembarrassed  manner in   
which the ,portuguese peasantry sustain 
a conversation1 and the  purity of the  
language in which they express their    
thoughts1 and yet few  of them can read 
or write2 whereas the peasantry of      
,england1 whose  education is in general
 much superior1 are in their            
conversation coarse  and dull almost to 
brutality1 and absurdly ungrammatical in
 their  language1 though the ,english   
tongue is upon the whole more simple in 
its  structure than the ,portuguese4    
,on my return to ,lisbon ,i found our   
friend ---1 who received me very        
kindly4  ,the next ten days were        

exceedingly rainy1 which prevented me   
from making any excursions into the     
country3 during this time ,i saw our    
friend frequently1 and had long         
conversations with him concerning the   
best means of distributing the ,gospel4 
,he thought we could do no better  for  
the present than put part of our stock  
into the hands of the  booksellers of   
,lisbon1 and at the same time employ    
colporteurs to hawk  the books about the
 streets1 receiving a certain profit on 
every copy  they sold4  ,this plan was  
agreed upon1 and forthwith put in       
practice1 and  with some success4  ,i   
had thoughts of sending colporteurs into
 the  neighbouring villages1 but to this
 our friend objected4  ,he thought the  
attempt dangerous1 as it was very       
possible that the rural priesthood1 who 
still possessed much influence in their 
own districts1 and who were for  the    
most part decided enemies to the spread 
of the ,gospel1 might cause  the men    
employed to be assassinated or          

ill-treated4    ,i determined1 however1 
ere leaving ,portugal1 to establish     
depts of  ,bibles in one or two of the  
provincial towns4  ,i wished to visit   
the  ,alemtejo1 which ,i had heard was a
 very benighted region4  ,the ,alemtejo 
#af means the province beyond the       
,tagus4  ,this province is not beautiful
  and picturesque1 like most other parts
 of ,portugal2 there are few hills  and 
mountains4  ,the greater part consists  
of heaths broken by knolls1 and  gloomy 
dingles1 and forests of stunted pine2   
these places are infested  with         
banditti4  ,the principal city is       
,evora1 one of the most ancient in      
,portugal1 and formerly the seat of a   
branch of the ,inquisition yet more     
cruel and baneful than the terrible one 
of ,lisbon4  ,evora lies about  sixty   
miles from ,lisbon1 and to ,evora ,i    
determined on going with twenty         
,testaments and two ,bibles4  ,how ,i   
fared there will presently be seen4     
,,chapter ,,ii4      ,boatmen of the    

,tagus--,dangers of the ,stream--,aldea 
,gallega--,the                          
,hostelry--,robbers--,sabocha--,adventur
e of a ,muleteer--,estalagem de         
,ladres--,don  ,geronimo--,vendas       
,novas--,royal ,residence--,swine of the
 ,alemtejo--,monte  ,moro--,swayne      
,vonved--,singular ,goatherd--,children 
of the ,fields--,infidels and           
,sadducees4    ,on the afternoon of the 
#fth of ,december ,i set out for ,evora1
 accompanied  by my servant4  ,i had    
been informed that the tide would serve 
for the  regular passage-boats1 or      
felouks1 as they are called1 at about   
four  o'clock2 but on reaching the side 
of the ,tagus opposite to ,aldea        
,gallega1  between which place and      
,lisbon the boats ply1 ,i found that the
 tide would  not permit them to start   
before eight o'clock4  ,had ,i waited   
for them ,i  should have probably landed
 at ,aldea ,gallega about midnight1 and 
,i felt  little inclination to make my  
entre in the ,alemtejo at that hour2    

therefore1 as ,i saw small boats which  
can push off at any time lying near  in 
abundance1 ,i determined upon hiring one
 of them for the passage1  though the   
expense would be thus considerably      
increased4  ,i soon agreed  with a      
wild-looking lad1 who told me that he   
was in part owner of one of  the boats1 
to take me over4  ,i was not aware of   
the danger in crossing  the ,tagus at   
its broadest part1 which is opposite    
,aldea ,gallega1 at any  time1 but      
especially at close of day in the winter
 season1 or ,i should  certainly not    
have ventured4  ,the lad and his        
comrade1 a  miserable-looking object1   
whose only clothing1 notwithstanding the
  season1 was a tattered jerkin and     
trousers1 rowed until we had advanced   
about half a mile from the land2 they   
then set up a large sail1 and the  lad1 
who seemed to direct everything1 and to 
be the principal1 took the  helm and    
steered4  ,the evening was now setting  
in2 the sun was not far  from its bourne

 in the horizon2 the air was very cold1 
the wind was  rising1 and the waves of  
the noble ,tagus began to be crested    
with foam4  ,i told the boy that it was 
scarcely possible for the boat to carry 
so  much sail without upsetting1 upon   
which he laughed1 and began to gabble   
in a most incoherent manner4  ,he had   
the most harsh and rapid  articulation  
that has ever come under my observation 
in any human being2  it was the scream  
of the hyena blended with the bark of   
the terrier1  though it was by no means 
an index of his disposition1 which ,i   
soon found  to be light1 merry1 and     
anything but malevolent2 for when ,i1 in
 order to  show him that ,i cared little
 about him1 began to hum 8,eu que sou   
contrabandista10 #ah he laughed         
heartily1 and said1 clapping me on the  
shoulder1 that he would not drown us if 
he could help it4  ,the other poor      
fellow seemed by no means averse to go  
to the bottom3 he sat at the fore  part 
of the boat1 looking the image of       

famine1 and only smiled when the  waters
 broke over the weather side and soaked 
his scanty habiliments4  ,in  a little  
time ,i had made up my mind that our    
last hour was come2 the wind  was       
getting higher1 the short dangerous     
waves were more foamy1 the boat  was    
frequently on its beam1 and the water   
came over the lee side in  torrents4    
,but still the wild lad at the helm held
 on1 laughing and  chattering1 and      
occasionally yelling out part of the    
,miguelite air1  8,quando el ,rey       
chegou10 #ai the singing of which in    
,lisbon is  imprisonment4    ,the stream
 was against us1 but the wind was in our
 favour1 and we sprang  along at a      
wonderful rate1 and ,i saw that our only
 chance of escape was  in speedily      
passing the farther bank of the ,tagus1 
where the bight or bay  at the extremity
 of which stands ,aldea ,gallega        
commences1 for we should  not then have 
to battle with the waves of the stream1 
which the adverse  wind lashed into     

fury4  ,it was the will of the ,almighty
 to permit us  speedily to gain this    
shelter1 but not before the boat was    
nearly filled  with water1 and we were  
all wet to the skin4  ,at about seven   
o'clock in  the evening we reached      
,aldea ,gallega1 shivering with cold and
 in a most  deplorable plight4    ,aldea
 ,gallega1 or the ,galician ,village    
7for the two words are ,spanish1  and   
have that signification71 is a place    
containing1 ,i should think1  about four
 thousand inhabitants4  ,it was pitchy  
dark when we landed1 but  rockets soon  
began to fly about in all directions1   
illuming the air far  and wide4  ,as we 
passed along the dirty unpaved street   
which leads to the  largo1 or square1 in
 which the inn is situated1 a horrible  
uproar of  drums and voices assailed our
 ears4  ,on inquiring the cause of all  
this  bustle1 ,i was informed that it   
was the eve of the ,conception of the   
,virgin4    ,as it was not the custom of
 the people at the inn to furnish       

provisions  for the guests1 ,i wandered 
about in search of food2 and at last1   
seeing  some soldiers eating and        
drinking in a species of wine-house1 ,i 
went in  and asked the people to let me 
have some supper1 and in a short time   
they  furnished me with a tolerable     
meal1 for which1 however1 they charged  
three crowns4    ,having engaged with a 
person for mules to carry us to ,evora1 
which were  to be ready at five next    
morning1 ,i soon retired to bed1 my     
servant  sleeping in the same apartment1
 which was the only one in the house    
vacant4  ,i closed not my eyes during   
the whole night4  ,beneath us was a     
stable1 in which some almocreves1 or    
carriers1 slept with their mules2  at   
our back1 in the yard1 was a pigsty4    
,how could ,i sleep8  ,the hogs         
grunted1 the mules screamed1 and the    
almocreves snored most horribly4  ,i    
heard the village clock strike the hours
 until midnight1 and from  midnight till
 four in the morning1 when ,i sprang up 

and began to dress1  and despatched my  
servant to hasten the man with the      
mules1 for ,i was  heartily tired of the
 place and wanted to leave it4  ,an old 
man1 bony and  hale1 accompanied by a   
bare-footed lad1 brought the beasts1    
which were  tolerably good4  ,he was the
 proprietor of them1 and intended1 with 
the  lad1 who was his nephew1 to        
accompany us to ,evora4    ,when we     
started the moon was shining brightly1  
and the morning was  piercingly cold4   
,we soon entered on a sandy hollow way1 
emerging from  which we passed by a     
strange-looking and large edifice1      
standing on a  high bleak sandhill on   
our left4  ,we were speedily overtaken  
by five or  six men on horseback1 riding
 at a rapid pace1 each with a long gun  
slung  at his saddle1 the muzzle        
depending about two feet below the      
horse's  belly4  ,i inquired of the old 
man what was the reason of this warlike 
array4  ,he answered1 that the roads    
were very bad 7meaning that they        

abounded with robbers71 and that they   
went armed in this manner for their     
defence2 they soon turned off to the    
right towards ,palmella4    ,we reached 
a sandy plain studded with stunted pine2
 the road was little  more than a       
footpath1 and as we proceeded the trees 
thickened and became  a wood1 which     
extended for two leagues1 with clear    
spaces at intervals1  in which herds of 
cattle and sheep were feeding2 the bells
 attached to  their necks were ringing  
lowly and monotonously4  ,the sun was   
just  beginning to show itself2 but the 
morning was misty and dreary1 which1    
together with the aspect of desolation  
which the country exhibited1 had  an    
unfavourable effect on my spirits4  ,i  
got down and walked1 entering  into     
conversation with the old man4  ,he     
seemed to have but one theme1  8the     
robbers10 and the atrocities they were  
in the habit of practising in  the very 
spots we were passing4  ,the tales he   
told were truly horrible1  and to avoid 

them ,i mounted again1 and rode on      
considerably in front4    ,in about an  
hour and a half we emerged from the     
forest1 and entered upon  a savage1     
wild1 broken ground1 covered with mato1 
or brushwood4  ,the  mules stopped to   
drink at a shallow pool1 and on looking 
to the right ,i  saw a ruined wall4     
,this1 the guide informed me1 was the   
remains of  ,vendas ,velhas1 or the ,old
 ,inn1 formerly the haunt of the        
celebrated  robber ,sabocha4  ,this     
,sabocha1 it seems1 had1 some sixteen   
years ago1 a  band of about forty       
ruffians at his command1 who infested   
these wilds1  and supported themselves  
by plunder4  ,for a considerable time   
,sabocha  pursued his atrocious trade   
unsuspected1 and many an unfortunate    
traveller was murdered in the dead of   
night at the solitary inn by the        
woodside which he kept2 indeed1 a more  
fit situation for plunder and  murder ,i
 never saw4  ,the gang were in the habit
 of watering their horses  at the pool1 

and perhaps of washing therein their    
hands stained with the  blood of their  
victims4  ,the lieutenant of the troop  
was the brother of  ,sabocha1 a fellow  
of great strength and ferocity1         
particularly famous for  the skill he   
possessed in darting a long knife1 with 
which he was in the  habit of           
transfixing his opponents4  ,sabocha's  
connexion with the gang at  length      
became known1 and he fled1 with the     
greater part of his  associates1 across 
the ,tagus to the northern provinces4   
,himself and his  brothers eventually   
lost their lives on the road to         
,coimbra1 in an  engagement with the    
military4  ,his house was razed by order
 of the  government4    ,the ruins are  
still frequently visited by banditti1   
who eat and drink  amidst them1 and look
 out for prey1 as the place commands a  
view of the  road4  ,the old man assured
 me1 that about two months previous1 on 
returning to ,aldea ,gallega with his   
mules from accompanying some            

travellers1 he had been knocked down1   
stripped naked1 and all his money  taken
 from him1 by a fellow who he believed  
came from this murderers'  nest4  ,he   
said that he was an exceedingly powerful
 young man1 with  immense moustaches and
 whiskers1 and was armed with an        
espingarda1 or  musket4  ,about ten days
 subsequently he saw the robber at      
,vendas ,novas1  where we should pass   
the night4  ,the fellow on recognizing  
him took him  aside1 and1 with horrid   
imprecations1 threatened that he should 
never be  permitted to return home if he
 attempted to discover him2 he therefore
  held his peace1 as there was little to
 be gained and everything to be  risked 
in apprehending him1 as he would have   
been speedily set at liberty  for want  
of evidence to criminate him1 and then  
he would not have failed  to have had   
his revenge1 or would have been         
anticipated therein by his  comrades4   
,i dismounted and went up to the place1 
and saw the vestiges of a fire and  a   

broken bottle4  ,the sons of plunder had
 been there very lately4  ,i left  a    
,new ,testament and some tracts amongst 
the ruins1 and hastened away4    ,the   
sun had dispelled the mists and was     
beaming very hot4  ,we rode on for      
about an hour1 when ,i heard the        
neighing of a horse in our rear1 and our
  guide said there was a party of       
horsemen behind2 our mules were good1   
and  they did not overtake us for at    
least twenty minutes4  ,the headmost    
rider  was a gentleman in a fashionable 
travelling dress2 a little way behind   
were an officer1 two soldiers1 and a boy
 in livery4  ,i heard the  principal    
horseman1 on overtaking my servant1     
inquiring who ,i was1 and  whether      
,french or ,english4  ,he was told ,i   
was an ,english gentleman1  travelling4 
,he then asked whether ,i understood    
,portuguese2 the man said  ,i understood
 it1 but he believed that ,i spoke      
,french and ,italian better4  ,the      
gentleman then spurred on his horse1 and

 accosted me1 not in  ,portuguese1 nor  
in ,french or ,italian1 but in the      
purest ,english that ,i  ever heard     
spoken by a foreigner2 it had1 indeed1  
nothing of foreign  accent or           
pronunciation in it2 and had ,i not     
known1 by the countenance of  the       
speaker1 that he was no ,englishman 7for
 there is a peculiarity in the          
countenance1 as everybody knows1 which1 
though it cannot be described1 is  sure 
to betray the ,englishman71 ,i should   
have concluded that ,i was in  company  
with a countryman4  ,we continued       
discoursing until we arrived at  ,peges4
    ,peges consists of about two or     
three houses and an inn2 there is       
likewise a species of barrack1 where    
half a dozen soldiers are stationed4    
,in the whole of ,portugal there is no  
place of worse reputation1 and the  inn 
is nicknamed ,estalagem de ,ladres1 or  
the hostelry of thieves2 for  it is     
there that the banditti of the          
wilderness1 which extends around it  on 

every side for leagues1 are in the habit
 of coming and spending the  money1 the 
fruits of their criminal daring2 there  
they dance and sing1  eat fricasseed    
rabbits and olives1 and drink the muddy 
but strong wine of  the ,alemtejo4  ,an 
enormous fire1 fed by the trunk of a    
cork-tree1 was  blazing in a niche on   
the left hand on entering the spacious  
kitchen4  ,close by it1 seething1 were  
several large jars1 which emitted no    
disagreeable odour1 and reminded me that
 ,i had not broken my fast1  although it
 was now nearly one o'clock1 and ,i had 
ridden five leagues4  ,several          
wild-looking men1 who1 if they were not 
banditti1 might easily be  mistaken for 
such1 were seated on logs about the     
fire4  ,i asked them some  unimportant  
questions1 to which they replied with   
readiness and civility1  and one of     
them1 who said he could read1 accepted a
 tract which ,i offered  him4    ,my new
 friend1 who had been bespeaking dinner1
 or rather breakfast1 now1  with great  

civility1 invited me to partake of it1  
and at the same time  introduced me to  
the officer who accompanied him1 and who
 was his  brother1 and also spoke       
,english1 though not so well as himself4
  ,i found  ,i had become acquainted    
with ,don #be;a ,geronimo ,joz          
d',azveto1 secretary  to the government 
at ,evora2 his brother belonged to a    
regiment of  hussars1 whose             
head-quarters were at ,evora1 but which 
had outlying  parties along the         
road1--for example1 the place where we  
were stopping4    ,picture3 ,roman      
military monument showing the rabbit as 
a ,spanish device  ,rabbits at ,peges   
#be;b seem to be a standard article of  
food1 being  produced in abundance on   
the moors around4  ,we had one fried1   
the gravy  of which was delicious1 and  
afterwards a roasted one1 which was     
brought  up on a dish entire2 the       
hostess1 having first washed her hands1 
proceeded to tear the animal to pieces1 
which having accomplished1 she  poured  

over the fragments a sweet sauce4  ,i   
ate heartily of both dishes1            
particularly of the last2 owing1        
perhaps1 to the novel and curious manner
  in which it was served up4  ,excellent
 figs1 from the ,algarves1 and  apples1 
concluded our repast1 which we ate in a 
little side room with a  mud floor1     
which sent such a piercing chill into my
 system1 as prevented  me from deriving 
that pleasure from my fare and my       
agreeable companions  that ,i should    
have otherwise experienced4    ,don     
,geronimo had been educated in ,england1
 in which country he passed his         
boyhood1 which in a certain degree      
accounted for his proficiency in the    
,english language1 the idiom and        
pronunciation of which can only be      
acquired by residing in the country at  
that period of one's life4  ,he had     
also fled thither shortly after the     
usurpation of the throne of ,portugal   
by ,don ,miguel1 and from thence had    
departed to the ,brazils1 where he had  

devoted himself to the service of ,don  
,pedro1 and had followed him in the     
expedition which terminated in the      
downfall of the usurper1 and the        
establishment of the constitutional     
government in ,portugal4  ,our          
conversation rolled chiefly on literary 
and political subjects1 and my          
acquaintance with the writings of the   
most celebrated authors of ,portugal    
was hailed with surprise and delight2   
for nothing is more gratifying to a     
,portuguese than to observe a foreigner 
taking an interest in the  literature of
 his nation1 of which1 in many respects1
 he is justly proud4    ,at about two   
o'clock we were once more in the saddle1
 and pursued our way  in company1       
through a country exactly resembling    
that which we had  previously been      
traversing1 rugged and broken1 with here
 and there a  clump of pines4  ,the     
afternoon was exceedingly fine1 and the 
bright rays  of the sun relieved the    
desolation of the scene4  ,having       

advanced about  two leagues1 we caught  
sight of a large edifice towering       
majestically in  the distance1 which ,i 
learnt was a royal palace standing at   
the farther  extremity of ,vendas       
,novas1 the village in which we were to 
pass the  night2 it was considerably    
more than a league from us1 yet1 seen   
through  the clear transparent          
atmosphere of ,portugal1 it appeared    
much nearer4    ,before reaching it we  
passed by a stone cross1 on the pedestal
 of which  was an inscription           
commemorating a horrible murder of a    
native of ,lisbon1  which had occurred  
on that spot2 it looked ancient1 and was
 covered with  moss1 and the greater    
part of the inscription was             
illegible--at least it  was to me1 who  
could not bestow much time on its       
deciphering4  ,having  arrived at       
,vendas ,novas1 and bespoken supper1 my 
new friend and myself  strolled forth to
 view the palace4  ,it was built by the 
late king of  ,portugal1 and presents   

little that is remarkable in its        
exterior2 it is a  long edifice with    
wings1 and is only two stories high1    
though it can be  seen afar off1 from   
being situated on elevated ground2 it   
has fifteen  windows in the upper1 and  
twelve in the lower story1 with a       
paltry-looking door1 something like that
 of a barn1 to which you ascend  by one 
single step4  ,the interior corresponds 
with the exterior1 offering  nothing    
which can gratify curiosity1 if we      
except the kitchens1 which are  indeed  
magnificent1 and so large that food     
enough might be cooked in  them1 at one 
time1 to serve as a repast for all the  
inhabitants of the  ,alemtejo4    ,i    
passed the night with great comfort in a
 clean bed1 remote from all  those      
noises so rife in a ,portuguese inn1 and
 the next morning at six we  again set  
out on our journey1 which we hoped to   
terminate before sunset1  as ,evora is  
but ten leagues from ,vendas ,novas4    
,the preceding morning had  been cold1  

but the present one was far colder--so  
much so1 that just  before sunrise ,i   
could no longer support it on horseback1
 and therefore1  dismounting1 ran and   
walked until we reached a few houses at 
the  termination of these desolate      
moors4  ,it was in one of these houses  
that  the commissioners of ,don ,pedro  
and ,miguel met1 #bh and it was there   
agreed that the latter should resign the
 crown in favour of ,dona ,maria1  for  
,evora was the last stronghold of the   
usurper1 and the moors of the  ,alemtejo
 the last area of the combats which so  
long agitated unhappy  ,portugal4  ,i   
therefore gazed on the miserable huts   
with considerable  interest1 and did not
 fail to scatter in the neighbourhood   
several of the  precious little tracts  
with which1 together with a small       
quantity of  ,testaments1 my carpet-bag 
was provided4    ,the country began to  
improve2 the savage heaths were left    
behind1 and we  saw hills and dales1    
cork-trees1 and azinheiras1 on the last 

of which  trees grows that kind of sweet
 acorn called bolotas1 which is pleasant
  as a chestnut1 and which supplies in  
winter the principal food on which  the 
numerous swine of the ,alemtejo subsist4
  ,gallant swine they are1 with  short  
legs and portly bodies of a black or    
dark red colour2 and for the  excellence
 of their flesh ,i can vouch1 having    
frequently luxuriated upon  it in the   
course of my wanderings in this         
province2 the lombo1 or loin1  when     
broiled on the live embers1 is          
delicious1 especially when eaten with   
olives4    ,we were now in sight of     
,monte ,moro1 which1 as the name        
denotes1 was once  a fortress of the    
,moors4  ,it is a high steep hill1 on   
the summit and  sides of which are      
ruined walls and towers4  ,at its       
western side is a  deep ravine or       
valley1 through which a small stream    
rushes1 traversed by  a stone bridge2   
farther down there is a ford1 over which
 we passed and  ascended to the town1   

which1 commencing near the northern     
base1 passes  over the lower ridge      
towards the north-east4  ,the town is   
exceedingly  picturesque1 and many of   
the houses are very ancient1 and built  
in the  ,moorish fashion4  ,i wished    
much to examine the relics of ,moorish  
sway on  the upper part of the mountain1
 but time pressed1 and the short period 
of  our stay at this place did not      
permit me to gratify my inclination4    
,monte ,moro is the head of a range of  
hills which cross this part of the      
,alemtejo1 and from hence they fork east
 and south-east1 towards the  former of 
which directions lies the direct road to
 ,elvas1 ,badajoz1 and  ,madrid2 and    
towards the latter that to ,evora4  ,a  
beautiful mountain1  covered to the top 
with cork-trees1 is the third of the    
chain which  skirts the way in the      
direction of ,elvas4  ,it is called     
,monte ,almo2 a  brook brawls at its    
base1 and as ,i passed it the sun was   
shining  gloriously on the green        

herbage1 on which flocks of goats were  
feeding1  with their bells ringing      
merrily1 so that the tout ensemble      
resembled a  fairy scene2 and that      
nothing might be wanted to complete the 
picture1 ,i  here met a man1 a goatherd1
 beneath an azinheira1 whose appearance 
recalled to my mind the ,brute ,carle1  
mentioned in the ,danish ballad of      
,swayne ,vonved3--#bi        8,a wild   
swine on his shoulders he kept1         
,and upon his bosom a black bear slept2 
,and about his fingers1 with hair       
o'erhung1      ,the squirrel sported1   
and weasel clung40    ,upon the shoulder
 of the goatherd was a beast1 which he  
told me was a  lontra1 or otter1 which  
he had lately caught in the neighbouring
 brook2  it had a string round its neck1
 which was attached to his arm4  ,at his
  left side was a bag1 from the top of  
which peered the heads of two or  three 
singular-looking animals2 and at his    
right was squatted the sullen  cub of a 
wolf1 which he was endeavouring to tame4

  ,his whole appearance  was to the last
 degree savage and wild4  ,after a      
little conversation1  such as those who 
meet on the road frequently hold1 ,i    
asked him if he  could read1 but he made
 me no answer4  ,i then inquired if he  
knew  anything of ,god or ,jesus        
,christ2 he looked me fixedly in the    
face for a  moment1 and then turned his 
countenance towards the sun1 which was  
beginning to sink in the west1 nodded to
 it1 and then again looked  fixedly upon
 me4  ,i believe that ,i understood the 
mute reply1 which  probably was1 that it
 was ,god who made that glorious light  
which illumes  and gladdens all         
creation2 and1 gratified with that      
belief1 ,i left him  and hastened after 
my companions1 who were by this time a  
considerable  way in advance4    ,i have
 always found in the disposition of the 
children of the fields a  more          
determined tendency to religion and     
piety than amongst the  inhabitants of  
towns and cities1 and the reason is     

obvious--they are less  acquainted with 
the works of man's hands than with those
 of ,god2 their  occupations1 too1 which
 are simple1 and requiring less of      
ingenuity and  skill than those which   
engage the attention of the other       
portion of their  fellow-creatures1 are 
less favourable to the engendering of   
self-conceit  and self-sufficiency1 so  
utterly at variance with that lowliness 
of  spirit which constitutes the best   
foundation of piety4  ,the sneerers and 
scoffers at religion do not spring from 
amongst the simple children of  nature1 
but are the excrescences of over-wrought
 refinement2 and though  their baneful  
influence has indeed penetrated to the  
country and  corrupted man there1 the   
source and fountain-head was amongst    
crowded  houses1 where nature is        
scarcely known4  ,i am not one of those 
who look  for perfection amongst the    
rural population of any                 
country--perfection is  not to be found 
amongst the children of the fall1       

wherever their abodes  may happen to be2
 but1 until the heart discredits the    
existence of a ,god1  there is still    
hope for the soul of the possessor1     
however stained with  crime he may be1  
for even ,simon the magician was        
converted4  ,but when the  heart is once
 steeled with infidelity1 infidelity    
confirmed by carnal  wisdom1 an         
exuberance of the grace of ,god is      
required to melt it1 which  is seldom   
manifested2 for we read in the blessed  
book that the ,pharisee  and the wizard 
became receptacles of grace1 but where  
is there mention  made of the conversion
 of the sneering ,sadducee1 and is the  
modern  infidel aught but a ,sadducee of
 later date8    ,it was dark night      
before we reached ,evora1 and having    
taken leave of my  friends1 who kindly  
requested me to consider their house my 
home1 ,i and  my servant went to the    
,largo de ,san ,francisco1 in which1 the
 muleteer  informed me1 was the best    
hostelry of the town4  ,we rode into the

  kitchen1 at the extreme end of which  
was the stable1 as is customary in      
,portugal4  ,the house was kept by an   
aged gypsy-like female and her          
daughter1 a fine blooming girl about    
eighteen years of age4  ,the house  was 
large4  ,in the upper story was a very  
long room1 like a granary1  which       
extended nearly the whole length of the 
house2 the farther part was  partitioned
 off1 and formed a chamber tolerably    
comfortable1 but very  cold2 and the    
floor was of tiles1 as was also that of 
the large room1 in  which the muleteers 
were accustomed to sleep on the         
furniture of the  mules4  ,after supper 
,i went to bed1 and1 having offered up  
my devotions  to ,him who had protected 
me through a dangerous journey1 ,i slept
 soundly  till the morning4             
,,chapter ,,iii4      ,shopkeeper at    
,evora--,spanish ,contrabandistas--,lion
 and ,unicorn--,the  ,fountain--,trust  
in the ,almighty--,distribution of      
,tracts--,library at                    

,evora--,manuscript--,the ,bible as a   
,guide--,the ,infamous ,mary--,the ,man 
of  ,palmella--,the ,charm--,the        
,monkish ,system--,sunday--,volney--,an 
,auto-da-,f--,men  from ,spain--,reading
 of a ,tract--,new ,arrival--,the ,herb 
,rosemary4    ,evora is a small city1   
walled1 but not regularly fortified1 and
 could not  sustain a siege of a day4   
,it has five gates2 before that to the  
south-west is the principal promenade of
 its inhabitants2 the fair on ,st4      
,john's ,day is likewise held there2 the
 houses are in general very  ancient1   
and many of them unoccupied4  ,it       
contains about five thousand            
inhabitants1 though twice that number   
would be by no means  disproportionate  
to its size4  ,the two principal        
edifices are the ,see1 or  cathedral1   
#cc;a and the convent of ,san           
,francisco1 in the square before  the   
latter of which was situated the posada 
where ,i had taken up my  abode4  ,a    
large barrack for cavalry stands on the 

right-hand side on  entering the        
south-west gate4  ,to the southeast1 at 
the distance of six  leagues1 is to be  
seen a blue chain of hills1 the highest 
of which is  called ,serra ,dorso2 #cc;b
 it is picturesquely beautiful1 and     
contains  within its recesses wolves and
 wild boars in numbers4  ,about a league
 and  a half on the other side of this  
hill is ,estremoz4    ,i passed the day 
succeeding my arrival principally in    
examining the town  and its environs1   
and1 as ,i strolled about1 entered into 
conversation  with various people that  
,i met4  ,several of these were of the  
middle  class1 shopkeepers and          
professional men2 they were all         
,constitutionalists1 or pretended to be 
so1 but had very little to say  except a
 few commonplace remarks on the way of  
living of the friars1  their hypocrisy  
and laziness4  ,i endeavoured to obtain 
some information  respecting the state  
of instruction in the place1 and from   
their answers  was led to believe that  

it must be at the lowest ebb1 for it    
seemed that  there was neither book-shop
 nor school4  ,when ,i spoke of         
religion1 they  exhibited the utmost    
apathy for the subject1 and1 making     
their bows1 left  me as soon as         
possible4    ,having a letter of        
introduction to a person who kept a shop
 in the  market-place1 ,i went thither  
and delivered it to him as he stood     
behind  his counter4  ,in the course of 
conversation ,i found that he had been  
much  persecuted whilst the old system  
was in its vigour1 and that he          
entertained a hearty aversion for it4   
,i told him that the ignorance of  the  
people in religious matters had served  
to nurse that system1 and that  the     
surest way to prevent its return was to 
enlighten their minds4  ,i  added that  
,i had brought a small stock of ,bibles 
and ,testaments to ,evora1  which ,i    
wished to leave for sale in the hands of
 some respectable  merchant1 and that if
 he were anxious to help to lay the axe 

to the root  of superstition and        
tyranny1 he could not do so more        
effectually than by  undertaking the    
charge of these books4  ,he declared his
 willingness to do  so1 and ,i went away
 determined to entrust to him half of my
 stock4  ,i  returned to the hostelry1  
and sat down on a log of wood on the    
hearth  within the immense chimney in   
the common apartment2 two surly-looking 
men  were on their knees on the stones4 
,before them was a large heap of  pieces
 of old iron1 brass1 and copper2 they   
were assorting it1 and  stowing it away 
in various bags4  ,they were ,spanish   
contrabandists of the  lowest class1 and
 earned a miserable livelihood by       
smuggling such rubbish  from ,portugal  
into ,spain4  ,not a word proceeded from
 their lips1 and when  ,i addressed them
 in their native language1 they returned
 no other answer  than a kind of growl4 
,they looked as dirty and rusty as the  
iron in  which they trafficked2 their   
four miserable donkeys were in the      

stable in  the rear4    ,the woman of   
the house and her daughter were         
exceedingly civil to me1 and  coming    
near crouched down1 asking various      
questions about ,england4  ,a man       
dressed somewhat like an ,english       
sailor1 who sat on the other side of the
  hearth confronting me1 said1 8,i hate 
the ,english1 for they are not          
baptized1 and have not the law10 meaning
 the law of ,god4  ,i laughed1 and  told
 him that according to the law of       
,england1 no one who was unbaptized     
could be buried in consecrated ground2  
whereupon he said1 8,then you are       
stricter than we40  ,he then said1      
8,what is meant by the lion and the     
unicorn which ,i saw the other day on   
the coat-of-arms over the door of  the  
,english consul at ,st4 ,ubes80 #ce  ,i 
said they were the arms of  ,england6   
8,yes10 he replied1 8but what do they   
represent80  ,i said ,i did  not know4  
8,then10 said he1 8you do not know the  
secrets of your own  house40  ,i said1  

8,suppose ,i were to tell you that they 
represent the ,lion  of ,bethlehem and  
the horned monster of the flaming pit in
 combat1 as to  which should obtain the 
mastery in ,england1 what would you     
say80  ,he  replied1 8,i should say that
 you gave a fair answer40  ,this man and
 myself  became great friends4  ,he came
 from ,palmella1 not far from ,st4      
,ubes2 he  had several mules and horses 
with him1 and dealt in corn and barley4 
,i  again walked out and roamed in the  
environs of the town4    ,about half a  
mile from the southern wall is a stone  
fountain1 where the  muleteers and other
 people who visit the town are          
accustomed to water  their horses4  ,i  
sat down by it1 and there ,i remained   
about two hours1  entering into         
conversation with every one who halted  
at the fountain2 and  ,i will here      
observe1 that during the time of my     
sojourn at ,evora1 ,i  repeated my visit
 every day1 and remained there the same 
time2 and by  following this plan1 ,i   

believe that ,i spoke to at least two   
hundred of  the children of ,portugal   
upon matters relating to their eternal  
welfare4  ,i found that very few of     
those whom ,i addressed had received any
 species  of literary education1 none of
 them had seen the ,bible1 and not more 
than  half a dozen had the slightest    
inkling of what the holy book consisted4
  ,i found that most of them were       
bigoted ,papists and ,miguelites at     
heart4  ,i therefore1 when they told me 
they were ,christians1 denied the       
possibility of their being so1 as they  
were ignorant of ,christ and his        
commandments1 and placed their hope of  
salvation on outward forms and          
superstitious observances1 which were   
the invention of ,satan1 who wished  to 
keep them in darkness that at last they 
might stumble into the pit  which he had
 dug for them4  ,i said repeatedly that 
the ,pope1 whom they  revered1 was an   
arch deceiver1 and the head minister of 
,satan here on  earth1 and that the     

monks and friars1 whose absence they so 
deplored1 and  to whom they had been    
accustomed to confess themselves1 were  
his  subordinate agents4  ,when called  
upon for proofs1 ,i invariably cited the
  ignorance of my auditors respecting   
the ,scriptures1 and said that if  their
 spiritual guides had been really       
ministers of ,christ1 they would  not   
have permitted their flocks to remain   
unacquainted with his word4    ,since   
this occurred1 ,i have been frequently  
surprised that ,i experienced  no insult
 and ill-treatment from the people1     
whose superstitions ,i was  thus        
attacking2 but ,i really experienced    
none1 and am inclined to believe  that  
the utter fearlessness which ,i         
displayed1 trusting in the protection   
of the ,almighty1 may have been the     
cause4  ,when threatened by danger1 the 
best policy is to fix your eye steadily 
upon it1 and it will in general  vanish 
like the morning mist before the sun2   
whereas1 if you quail before  it1 it is 

sure to become more imminent4  ,i have  
fervent hope that the  words of my mouth
 sank deep into the hearts of some of my
 auditors1 as ,i  observed many of them 
depart musing and pensive4  ,i          
occasionally  distributed tracts amongst
 them2 for although they themselves were
 unable  to turn them to much account1  
,i thought that by their means they     
might  become of service at some future 
time1 and fall into the hands of others1
  to whom they might be of eternal      
interest4  ,many a book which is        
abandoned to the waters is wafted to    
some remote shore1 and there proves  a  
blessing and a comfort to millions1 who 
are ignorant from whence it  came4      
,the next day1 which was ,friday1 ,i    
called at the house of my friend ,don   
,geronimo ,azveto4  ,i did not find him 
there1 but was directed to the ,see1  or
 episcopal palace1 in an apartment of   
which ,i found him1 writing1 with       
another gentleman1 to whom he introduced
 me2 it was the governor of  ,evora1 who

 welcomed me with every mark of kindness
 and affability4  ,after  some          
discourse1 we went out together to      
examine an ancient edifice1 which  was  
reported to have served1 in bygone      
times1 as a temple to ,diana4  ,part  of
 it was evidently of ,roman             
architecture1 for there was no mistaking
 the  beautiful light pillars which     
supported a dome1 under which the       
sacrifices to the most captivating and  
poetical divinity of the heathen        
theocracy had probably been made2 but   
the original space between the  pillars 
had been filled up with rubbish of a    
modern date1 and the rest of  the       
building was apparently of the          
architecture of the latter end of the   
,middle ,ages4  ,it was situated at one 
end of the building which had once  been
 the seat of the ,inquisition1 and had  
served1 before the erection of  the     
present ,see1 as the residence of the   
bishop4    ,within the ,see1 where the  
governor now resides1 is a superb       

library1  occupying an immense vaulted  
room1 like the aisle of a cathedral2 and
 in  a side apartment is a collection of
 paintings by ,portuguese artists1      
chiefly portraits1 amongst which is that
 of ,don ,sebastian4 #ch  ,i  sincerely 
hope it did not do him justice1 for it  
represents him in the  shape of an      
awkward lad of about eighteen1 with a   
bloated booby face with  staring eyes1  
and a ruff round a short apoplectic     
neck4    ,i was shown several           
beautifully illuminated missals and     
other  manuscripts1 but the one which   
most arrested my attention1 ,i scarcely 
need say why1 was that which bore the   
following title3--        8,forma sive  
ordinatio ,capelle illustrissimi et     
xianissimi principis      ,henrici      
,sexti ,regis ,anglie et ,francie am dm 
,hibernie descripta      serenissi      
principi ,alfonso ,regi ,portugalie     
illustri per humilem      servitorem sm 
,willm4 ,sav4 ,decan capelle            
supradicte40 #ci    ,it seemed a voice  

from the olden times of my dear native  
land6  ,this  library and               
picture-gallery had been formed by one  
of the latter bishops1  a person of much
 learning and piety4    ,in the evening 
,i dined with ,don ,geronimo and his    
brother2 the latter soon  left us to    
attend to his military duties4  ,my     
friend and myself had now  much         
conversation of considerable interest2  
he lamented the deplorable  state of    
ignorance in which his countrymen       
existed at present4  ,he said  that his 
friend the governor and himself were    
endeavouring to establish a  school in  
the vicinity1 and that they had made    
application to the  government for the  
use of an empty convent1 called the     
,espinheiro1 or  thorn-tree1 at about a 
league's distance1 and that they had    
little doubt  of their request being    
complied with4  ,i had before told him  
who ,i was2  and after expressing joy at
 the plan which he had in contemplation1
 ,i now  urged him in the most pressing 

manner to use all his influence to make 
the knowledge of the ,scripture the     
basis of the education which the        
children were to receive1 and added1    
that half the ,bibles and ,testaments   
which ,i had brought with me to ,evora  
were heartily at his service4  ,he      
instantly gave me his hand1 said he     
accepted my offer with the greatest     
pleasure1 and would do all in his power 
to forward my views1 which were  in many
 respects his own4  ,i now told him that
 ,i did not come to ,portugal  with the 
view of propagating the dogmas of any   
particular sect1 but with  the hope of  
introducing the ,bible1 which is the    
well-head of all that is  useful and    
conducive to the happiness of society2  
that ,i cared not what  people called   
themselves1 provided they followed the  
,bible as a guide1  for that where the  
,scriptures were read1 neither          
priestcraft nor tyranny  could long     
exist2 and instanced the case of my own 
country1 the cause of  whose freedom and

 prosperity was the ,bible1 and that    
only1 as the last  persecutor of this   
book1 the bloody and infamous ,mary1 was
 the last  tyrant who had sat on the    
throne of ,england4  ,we did not part   
till the  night was considerably        
advanced2 and the next morning ,i sent  
him the  books1 in the firm and         
confident hope that a bright and        
glorious morning  was about to rise over
 the night which had so long cast its   
dreary  shadows over the regions of the 
,alemtejo4    ,the day after this       
interesting event1 which was ,saturday1 
,i had more  conversation with the man  
from ,palmella4  ,i asked him if in his 
journeys  he had never been attacked by 
robbers2 he answered no1 for that he    
generally travelled in company with     
others4  8,however10 said he1 8were ,i  
alone1 ,i should have little fear1 for  
,i am well protected40  ,i said that  ,i
 supposed he carried arms with him4     
8,no other arms than this10 said he1    
pulling out one of those long           

desperate-looking knives1 of ,english   
manufacture1 with which every           
,portuguese peasant is usually          
furnished4  ,this knife serves for many 
purposes1 and ,i should consider it a   
far more  efficient weapon than a       
dagger4  8,but10 said he1 8,i do not    
place much  confidence in the knife40   
,i then inquired in what rested his hope
 of  protection4  8,in this10 said he2  
and1 unbuttoning his waistcoat1 he      
showed me a small bag1 attached to his  
neck by a silken string4  8,in this  bag
 is an oraam1 #da or prayer1 written by 
a person of power1 and as  long as ,i   
carry it about with me1 no ill can      
befall me40  ,curiosity is  the leading 
feature of my character1 and ,i         
instantly said1 with  eagerness1 that ,i
 should feel great pleasure in being    
permitted to read  the prayer4  8,well10
 he replied1 8you are my friend1 and ,i 
would do for  you what ,i would for few 
others2 ,i will show it you40  ,he then 
asked for  my penknife1 and1 having     

unripped the bag1 took out a large piece
 of  paper closely folded up4  ,i       
hurried to my apartment and commenced   
the  examination of it4  ,it was        
scrawled over in a very illegible hand1 
and  was moreover much stained with     
perspiration1 so that ,i had            
considerable  difficulty in making      
myself master of its contents2 but ,i at
 last  accomplished the following       
literal translation of the charm1 which 
was  written in bad ,portuguese1 but    
which struck me at the time as being one
  of the most remarkable compositions   
that had ever come to my knowledge4     
,,the ,,charm4          8,just ,judge   
and divine ,son of the ,virgin ,maria1  
who wast born in      ,bethlehem1 a     
,nazarene1 and wast crucified in the    
midst of all ,jewry1      ,i beseech    
thee1 ,o ,lord1 by thy sixth day1 that  
the body of me be not      caught1 nor  
put to death by the hands of justice at 
all2 peace be      with you1 the peace  
of ,christ1 may ,i receive peace1 may   

you receive      peace1 said ,god to his
 disciples4  ,if the accursed justice   
should      distrust me1 or have its    
eyes on me1 in order to take me or to   
rob      me1 may its eyes not see me1   
may its mouth not speak to me1 may it   
have ears which may not hear me1 may it 
have hands which may not      seize me1 
may it have feet which may not overtake 
me2 for may ,i be      armed with the   
arms of ,st4 ,george1 covered with the  
cloak of ,abraham1      and shipped in  
the ark of ,noah1 so that it can neither
 see me1 nor      hear me1 nor draw the 
blood from my body4  ,i also adjure     
thee1 ,o      ,lord1 by those three     
blessed crosses1 by those three blessed 
chalices1 by those three blessed        
clergymen1 by those three               
consecrated hosts1 that thou give me    
that sweet company which thou           
gavest to the ,virgin ,maria1 from the  
gates of ,bethlehem to the      portals 
of ,jerusalem1 that ,i may go and come  
with pleasure and joy      with ,jesus  

,christ1 the ,son of the ,virgin ,maria1
 the prolific yet      nevertheless the 
eternal virgin40    ,the woman of the   
house and her daughter had similar bags 
attached to  their necks1 containing    
charms1 which1 they said1 prevented the 
witches  having power to harm them4     
,the belief in witchcraft is very       
prevalent  amongst the peasantry of the 
,alemtejo1 and ,i believe of other      
provinces  of ,portugal4  ,this is one  
of the relics of the monkish system1 the
 aim of  which1 in all countries where  
it has existed1 seems to have been to   
besot  the minds of the people1 that    
they might be more easily misled4  ,all 
these charms were fabrications of the   
monks1 who had sold them to their       
infatuated confessants4  ,the monks of  
the ,greek and ,syrian churches         
likewise deal in this ware1 which they  
know to be poison1 but which they  would
 rather vend than the wholesome balm of 
the ,gospel1 because it  brings them a  
large price1 and fosters the delusion   

which enables them to  live a life of   
luxury4    ,the ,sunday morning was     
fine1 and the plain before the church of
 the  convent of ,san ,francisco was    
crowded with people hastening to or     
returning from the ,mass4  ,after having
 performed my morning devotion1 and     
breakfasted1 ,i went down to the        
kitchen2 the girl ,geronima was seated  
by  the fire4  ,i inquired if she had   
heard ,mass8  ,she replied in the       
negative1 and that she did not intend to
 hear it4  ,upon my inquiring her       
motive for absenting herself1 she       
replied1 that since the friars had been 
expelled from their churches and        
convents she had ceased to attend ,mass1
  or to confess herself2 for that the   
government priests had no spiritual     
power1 and consequently she never       
troubled them4  ,she said the friars    
were holy men and charitable2 for that  
every morning those of the convent  over
 the way fed forty poor persons with the
 relics of the meals of the  preceding  

day1 but that now these people were     
allowed to starve4  ,i  replied1 that   
the friars1 who lived on the fat of the 
land1 could well  afford to bestow a few
 bones upon their poor1 and that their  
doing so was  merely a part of their    
policy1 by which they hoped to secure to
  themselves friends in time of need4   
,the girl then observed1 that1 as it    
was ,sunday1 ,i should perhaps like to  
see some books1 and without waiting  for
 a reply she produced them4  ,they      
consisted principally of popular        
stories1 with lives and miracles of     
saints1 but amongst them was a          
translation of ,volney's ,ruins of      
,empires4  ,i expressed a wish to know  
how she came possessed of this book4    
,she said that a young man1 a great     
,constitutionalist1 had given it to her 
some months previous1 and had  pressed  
her much to read it1 for that it was one
 of the best books in the  world4  ,i   
replied1 that the author of it was an   
emissary of ,satan1 and an  enemy of    

,jesus ,christ and the souls of mankind2
 that it was written with  the sole aim 
of bringing all religion into contempt1 
and that it  inculcated the doctrine    
that there was no future state1 nor     
reward for  the righteous1 nor          
punishment for the wicked4  ,she made no
 reply1 but1  going into another room1  
returned with her apron full of dry     
sticks and  brushwood1 all which she    
piled upon the fire1 and produced a     
bright  blaze4  ,she then took the book 
from my hand and placed it upon the     
flaming pile2 then1 sitting down1 took  
her rosary out of her pocket1 and  told 
her beads till the volume was consumed4 
,this was an auto-da-f  #dd in the best 
sense of the word4    ,on the ,monday   
and ,tuesday ,i paid my usual visits to 
the fountain1 and  likewise rode about  
the neighbourhood on a mule1 for the    
purpose of  circulating tracts4  ,i     
dropped a great many in the favourite   
walks of the  people of ,evora1 as ,i   
felt rather dubious of their accepting  

them had ,i  proffered them with my own 
hand1 whereas1 should they be observed  
lying  on the ground1 ,i thought that   
curiosity might cause them to be picked 
up  and examined4  ,i likewise1 on the  
,tuesday evening1 paid a farewell visit 
to my friend ,azveto1 as it was my      
intention to leave ,evora on the        
,thursday following and return to       
,lisbon2 in which view ,i had engaged a 
calash of a man who informed me that he 
had served as a soldier in the  grande  
arme of ,napoleon1 and been present in  
the ,russian campaign4  ,he  looked the 
very image of a drunkard4  ,his face was
 covered with  carbuncles1 and his      
breath impregnated with the fumes of    
strong waters4  ,he wished much to      
converse with me in ,french1 in the     
speaking of which  language it seemed he
 prided himself2 but ,i refused1 and    
told him to  speak the language of the  
country1 or ,i would hold no discourse  
with him4    ,wednesday was stormy1 with
 occasional rain4  ,on coming down1 ,i  

found that  my friend from ,palmella had
 departed2 but several contrabandistas  
had  arrived from ,spain4  ,they were   
mostly fine fellows1 and1 unlike the two
 ,i  had seen the preceding week1 who   
were of much lower degree1 were chatty  
and communicative2 they spoke their     
native language1 and no other1 and      
seemed to hold the ,portuguese in great 
contempt4  ,the magnificent tones  of   
the ,spanish sounded to great advantage 
amidst the shrill squeaking  dialect of 
,portugal4  ,i was soon in deep         
conversation with them1 and was  much   
pleased to find that all of them could  
read4  ,i presented the  eldest1 a man  
of about fifty years of age1 with a     
tract in ,spanish4  ,he  examined it for
 some time with great attention2 he then
 rose from his  seat1 and1 going into   
the middle of the apartment1 began      
reading it  aloud1 slowly and           
emphatically4  ,his companions gathered 
around him1 and  every now and then     
expressed their approbation of what they

 heard4  ,the  reader occasionally      
called upon me to explain passages      
which1 as they  referred to particular  
texts of ,scripture1 he did not exactly 
understand1  for not one of the party   
had ever seen either the ,old or ,new   
,testament4    ,he continued reading for
 upwards of an hour1 until he had       
finished the  tract2 and1 at its        
conclusion1 the whole party were        
clamorous for similar  ones1 with which 
,i was happy to be able to supply them4 
,most of these men spoke of priestcraft 
and the monkish system with the  utmost 
abhorrence1 and said that they should   
prefer death to submitting  again to the
 yoke which had formerly galled their   
necks4  ,i questioned  them very        
particularly respecting the opinion of  
their neighbours and  acquaintances on  
this point1 and they assured me that in 
their part of  the ,spanish frontier all
 were of the same mind1 and that they   
cared as  little for the ,pope and his  
monks as they did for ,don ,carlos2 for 

the  latter was a dwarf1 7chicotito71   
and a tyrant1 and the others were       
plunderers and robbers4  ,i told them   
they must beware of confounding         
religion with priestcraft1 and that in  
their abhorrence of the latter  they    
must not forget that there is a ,god and
 a ,christ to whom they must  look for  
salvation1 and whose word it was        
incumbent upon them to study on  every  
occasion2 whereupon they all expressed a
 devout belief in ,christ  and the      
,virgin4    ,these men1 though in many  
respects more enlightened than the      
surrounding  peasantry1 were in others  
as much in the dark2 they believed in   
witchcraft and in the efficacy of       
particular charms4  ,the night was very 
stormy1 and at about nine we heard a    
galloping towards the door1 and then  a 
loud knocking4  ,it was opened1 and in  
rushed a wild-looking man1  mounted on a
 donkey2 he wore a ragged jacket of     
sheepskin1 called in  ,spanish zamarra1 
with breeches of the same as far down as

 his knees2  his legs were bare4        
,around his sombrero1 or shadowy hat1   
was tied a  large quantity of the herb  
which in ,english is called rosemary1 in
  ,spanish romero1 and in the rustic    
language of ,portugal alecrim1 #dg      
which last is a word of ,scandinavian   
origin 7ellegren71 signifying the  elfin
 plant1 and was probably carried into   
the south by the ,vandals4  ,the  man   
seemed frantic with terror1 and said    
that the witches had been  pursuing him 
and hovering over his head for the last 
two leagues4  ,he  came from the        
,spanish frontier with meal and other   
articles4  ,he said  that his wife was  
following him1 and would soon arrive1   
and in about a  quarter of an hour she  
made her appearance1 dripping with rain1
 and also  mounted on a donkey4    ,i   
asked my friends the contrabandistas why
 he wore the rosemary in his  hat2      
whereupon they told me that it was good 
against witches and the  mischances on  
the road4  ,i had no time to argue      

against this  superstition1 for1 as the 
chaise was to be ready at five the next 
morning1 ,i wished to make the most of  
the short time which ,i could devote  to
 sleep4          ,,chapter ,,iv4        
,vexatious ,delays--,drunken            
,driver--,the ,murdered ,mule--,the     
,lamentation--,adventure on the         
,heath--,fear of ,darkness--,portuguese 
,fidalgo--,the ,escort--,return to      
,lisbon4    ,i rose at four1 and after  
having taken some refreshment1 ,i       
descended and  found the strange man and
 his wife sleeping in the chimney corner
 by the  fire1 which was still burning4 
,they soon awoke1 and began preparing   
their breakfast1 which consisted of salt
 sardinhas1 broiled upon the  embers4   
,in the mean time the woman sang        
snatches of the beautiful hymn1  very   
common in ,spain1 which commences       
thus3--        8,once of old upon a     
mountain1 shepherds overcome with sleep1
      ,near to ,bethlehem's holy tower1 
kept at dead of night their sheep2      

,round about the trunk they nodded of a 
huge ignited oak1      ,whence the      
crackling flame ascending bright and    
clear the darkness      broke40    ,on  
hearing that ,i was about to depart1 she
 said1 8,you shall have some of  my     
husband's rosemary1 which will keep you 
from danger1 and prevent any  misfortune
 occurring40  ,i was foolish enough to  
permit her to put some of  it in my hat2
 and1 the man having by this time       
arrived with his mules1 ,i  bade        
farewell to my friendly hostesses1 and  
entered the chaise with my  servant4    
,i remarked at the time that the mules  
which drew us were the finest ,i had    
ever seen2 the largest could be little  
short of sixteen hands high2 and  the   
fellow told me in his bad ,french that  
he loved them better than his  wife and 
children4  ,we turned round the corner  
of the convent1 and  proceeded down the 
street which leads to the south-western 
gate4  ,the  driver now stopped before  
the door of a large house1 and1 having  

alighted1 said that it was yet very     
early1 and that he was afraid to        
venture forth1 as it was very probable  
we should be robbed1 and himself        
murdered1 as the robbers who resided in 
the town would be apprehensive of  his  
discovering them1 but that the family   
who lived in this house were  going to  
,lisbon1 and would depart in about a    
quarter of an hour1 when we  might avail
 ourselves of an escort of soldiers     
which they would take with  them1 and in
 their company we should run no danger4 
,i told him ,i had no  fear1 and        
commanded him to drive on2 but he said  
he would not1 and left  us in the       
street4  ,we waited an hour1 when two   
carriages came to the door  of the      
house2 but it seems the family were not 
yet ready1 whereupon the  coachman      
likewise got down1 and went away4  ,at  
the expiration of about  half an hour   
the family came out1 and when their     
luggage had been  arranged they called  
for the coachman1 but he was nowhere to 

be found4  ,search was made for him1 but
 ineffectually1 and an hour more was    
spent  before another driver could be   
procured2 but the escort had not yet    
made  its appearance1 and it was not    
before a servant had been twice         
despatched  to the barracks that it     
arrived4  ,at last everything was ready1
 and they  drove off4    ,all this time 
,i had seen nothing of our own coachman1
 and ,i fully  expected that he had     
abandoned us altogether4  ,in a few     
minutes ,i saw him  staggering up the   
street in a state of intoxication1      
attempting to sing  the ,marseillois    
hymn4 #ej  ,i said nothing to him1 but  
sat observing  him4  ,he stood for some 
time staring at the mules1 and talking  
incoherent  nonsense in ,french4  ,at   
last he said1 8,i am not so drunk but ,i
 can ride10  and proceeded to lead his  
mules towards the gate4  ,when out of   
the town  he made several ineffectual   
attempts to mount the smallest mule1    
which  bore the saddle2 he at length    

succeeded1 and instantly commenced      
spurring  at a furious rate down the    
road4  ,we arrived at a place where a   
narrow  rocky path branched off1 by     
taking which we should avoid a          
considerable  circuit round the city    
wall1 which otherwise it would be       
necessary to  make before we could reach
 the road to ,lisbon1 which lay at the  
north-east4  ,he now said1 8,i shall    
take this path1 for by so doing we      
shall overtake the family in a minute20 
so into the path we went4  ,it was      
scarcely wide enough to admit the       
carriage1 and exceedingly steep and     
broken4  ,we proceeded1 ascending and   
descending2 the wheels cracked1 and  the
 motion was so violent that we were in  
danger of being cast out as  from a     
sling4  ,i saw that if we remained in   
the carriage it must be  broken in      
pieces1 as our weight must ensure its   
destruction4  ,i called to  him in      
,portuguese to stop1 but he flogged and 
spurred the beasts the  more4  ,my man  

now entreated me for ,god's sake to     
speak to him in ,french1  for if        
anything would pacify him that would4   
,i did so1 and entreated him  to let us 
dismount and walk till we had cleared   
this dangerous way4  ,the  result       
justified ,antonio's anticipation4  ,he 
instantly stopped1 and said1  8,sir1 you
 are master2 you have only to command1  
and ,i shall obey40  ,we  dismounted1   
and walked on till we reached the great 
road1 when we once  more seated         
ourselves4    ,the family were about a  
quarter of a mile in advance1 and we    
were no  sooner reseated than he lashed 
the mules into full gallop1 for the     
purpose of overtaking it4  ,his cloak   
had fallen from his shoulder1 and1  in  
endeavouring to readjust it1 he dropped 
the string from his hand by  which he   
guided the large mule3 it became        
entangled in the legs of the  poor      
animal1 which fell heavily on its neck2 
it struggled for a moment1  and then lay
 stretched across the way1 the shafts   

over its body4  ,i was  pitched forward 
into the dirt1 and the drunken driver   
fell upon the  murdered mule4    ,i was 
in a great rage1 and cried1 8,you       
drunken renegade1 who are ashamed  to   
speak the language of your own country1 
you have broken the staff of  your      
existence1 and may now starve40         
8,paciencia0 said he1 and began  kicking
 the head of the mule1 in order to make 
it rise2 but ,i pushed him  down1 and   
taking his knife1 which had fallen from 
his pocket1 cut the  bands by which it  
was attached to the carriage1 but life  
had fled1 and  the film of death had    
begun to cover its eyes4    ,the fellow1
 in the recklessness of intoxication1   
seemed at first disposed  to make light 
of his loss1 saying1 8,the mule is dead2
 it was ,god's will  that she should    
die2 what more can be said8             
,paciencia40  ,meanwhile1 ,i  despatched
 ,antonio to the town1 for the purpose  
of hiring mules1 and1  having taken my  
baggage from the chaise1 waited on the  

road-side until he  should arrive4      
,the fumes of the liquor began now to   
depart from the fellow's brain2 he      
clasped his hands1 and exclaimed1       
8,blessed ,virgin1 what is to become of 
me8  ,how am ,i to support myself8      
,where am ,i to get another mule8  ,for 
my  mule--my best mule--is dead3 she    
fell upon the road1 and died of a       
sudden6  ,i have been in ,france1 and in
 other countries1 and have seen beasts  
of  all kinds1 but such a mule as that  
,i have never seen2 but she is dead--my 
mule is dead3 she fell upon the road1   
and died of a sudden60  ,he  continued  
in this strain for a considerable time2 
and the burden of his  lamentation was  
always1 8,my mule is dead3 she fell upon
 the road1 and  died of a sudden40  ,at 
length he took the collar from the      
creature's  neck1 and put it upon the   
other1 which1 with some difficulty1 he  
placed  in the shafts4    ,a beautiful  
boy of about thirteen now came from the 
direction of the  town1 running along   

the road with the velocity of a hare3 he
 stopped  before the dead mule1 and     
burst into tears4  ,it was the man's    
son1 who  had heard of the accident from
 ,antonio4  ,this was too much for the  
poor  fellow2 he ran up to the boy1 and 
said1 8,don't cry4  ,our bread is gone1 
but it is ,god's will2 the mule is      
dead60  ,he then flung himself on the   
ground1 uttering fearful cries4  8,i    
could have borne my loss10 said he1     
8but when ,i saw my child cry1 ,i became
 a fool40  ,i gave him two or three     
crowns1 and added some words of comfort2
 assuring him ,i had no doubt  that1 if 
he abandoned drink1 the ,almighty ,god  
would take compassion on  him and repair
 his loss4  ,at length he became more   
composed1 and1 placing  my baggage in   
the chaise1 we returned to the town1    
where ,i found two  excellent riding    
mules awaiting my arrival at the inn4   
,i did not see the  ,spanish woman1 or  
,i should have told her of the little   
efficacy of  rosemary in this instance4 

,i have known several drunkards amongst 
the ,portuguese1 but1 without one       
exception1 they have been individuals   
who1 having travelled abroad1 like  this
 fellow1 have returned with a contempt  
for their own country1 and  polluted    
with the worst vices of the lands which 
they have visited4    ,i would strongly 
advise any of my countrymen who may     
chance to read these  lines1 that1 if   
their fate lead them into ,spain or     
,portugal1 they avoid  hiring as        
domestics1 or being connected with1     
individuals of the lower  classes who   
speak any other language than their own1
 as the probability  is that they are   
heartless thieves and drunkards4  ,these
 gentry are  invariably saying all they 
can in dispraise of their native land2  
and it  is my opinion1 grounded upon    
experience1 that an individual who is   
capable of such baseness would not      
hesitate at the perpetration of any     
villany1 for next to the love of ,god1  
the love of country is the best         

preventive of crime4  ,he who is proud  
of his country will be particularly     
cautious not to do anything which is    
calculated to disgrace it4    ,we now   
journeyed towards ,lisbon1 and reached  
,monte ,moro about two  o'clock4  ,after
 taking such refreshment as the place   
afforded1 we pursued  our way till we   
were within a quarter of a league of the
 huts which stand  on the edge of the   
savage wilderness we had before crossed4
  ,here we were  overtaken by a         
horseman2 he was a powerful1            
middle-sized man1 and was  mounted on a 
noble ,spanish horse4  ,he had a broad1 
slouching sombrero  on his head1 and    
wore a jerkin of blue cloth1 with large 
bosses of silver  for buttons1 and      
clasps of the same metal2 he had        
breeches of yellow  leather1 and immense
 jack-boots3 at his saddle was slung a  
formidable  gun4  ,he inquired if ,i    
intended to pass the night at ,vendas   
,novas1 and on  my replying in the      
affirmative1 he said that he would avail

 himself of  our company4  ,he now      
looked towards the sun1 whose disk was  
rapidly  sinking beneath the horizon1   
and entreated us to spur on and make the
  most of its light1 for that the moor  
was a horrible place in the dusk4  ,he  
placed himself at our head1 and we      
trotted briskly on1 the boy1 or         
muleteer1 who attended us running behind
 without exhibiting the slightest       
symptom of fatigue4    ,we entered upon 
the moor1 and had advanced about a mile 
when dark night  fell around us4  ,we   
were in a wild path1 with high brushwood
 on either  side1 when the rider said   
that he could not confront the darkness1
 and  begged me to ride on before1 and  
he would follow after3 ,i could hear him
  trembling4  ,i asked the reason of his
 terror1 and he replied1 that at one    
time darkness was the same thing to him 
as day1 but that of late years he       
dreaded it1 especially in wild places4  
,i complied with his request1 but  ,i   
was ignorant of the way1 and1 as ,i     

could scarcely see my hand1 was         
continually going wrong4  ,this made the
 man impatient1 and he again  placed    
himself at our head4  ,we proceeded so  
for a considerable way1 when  he again  
stopped1 and said that the power of the 
darkness was too much  for him4  ,his   
horse seemed to be infected with the    
same panic1 for it  shook in every limb4
  ,i now told him to call on the name of
 the ,lord  ,jesus1 who was able to turn
 the darkness into light2 but he gave a 
terrible shout1 and1 brandishing his gun
 aloft1 discharged it in the air4  ,his 
horse sprang forward at full speed1 and 
my mule1 which was one of the  swiftest 
of its kind1 took fright and followed at
 the heels of the  charger4  ,antonio   
and the boy were left behind4  ,on we   
flew like a  whirlwind1 the hoofs of the
 animals illuming the path with the     
sparks of  fire they struck from the    
stones4  ,i knew not whither we were    
going1 but  the dumb creatures were     
acquainted with the way1 and soon       

brought us to  ,vendas ,novas1 where we 
were rejoined by our companions4    ,i  
thought this man was a coward1 but ,i   
did him injustice1 for during the  day  
he was as brave as a lion1 and feared no
 one4  ,about five years since  he had  
overcome two robbers who had attacked   
him on the moors1 and1 after  tying     
their hands behind them1 had delivered  
them up to justice2 but at  night the   
rustling of a leaf filled him with      
terror4  ,i have known  similar         
instances of the kind in persons of     
otherwise extraordinary  resolution4    
,for myself1 ,i confess ,i am not a     
person of extraordinary  resolution1 but
 the dangers of the night daunt me no   
more than those of  midday4  ,the man in
 question was a farmer from ,evora1 and 
a person of  considerable wealth4    ,i 
found the inn at ,vendas ,novas thronged
 with people1 and had some  difficulty  
in obtaining accommodation and          
refreshment4  ,it was occupied  by the  
family of a certain fidalgo #ee from    

,estremoz2 he was on the  way to        
,lisbon1 conveying a large sum of money1
 as was said--probably the  rents of his
 estates4  ,he had with him a body-guard
 of four and twenty of  his dependants1 
each armed with a rifle2 they consisted 
of his shepherds1  swineherds1 cowherds1
 and hunters1 and were commanded by two 
youths1 his  son and nephew1 the latter 
of whom was in regimentals4             
,nevertheless1  notwithstanding the     
number of his troop1 it appeared that   
the fidalgo  laboured under considerable
 apprehension of being despoiled upon   
the  waste which lay between ,vendas    
,novas and ,peges1 as he had just       
requested  a guard of four soldiers from
 the officer who commanded a detachment 
stationed here4  ,there were many       
females in his company1 who1 ,i was     
told1  were his illegitimate            
daughters--for he bore an infamous moral
 character1  and was represented to me  
as a staunch friend of ,don ,miguel4    
,it was not  long before he came up to  

me and my new acquaintance1 as we sat by
 the  kitchen fire3 he was a tall man of
 about sixty1 but stooped much4  ,his   
countenance was by no means pleasing3 he
 had a long hooked nose1 small1         
twinkling1 cunning eyes1 and1 what ,i   
liked worst of all1 a continual         
sneering smile1 which ,i firmly believe 
to be the index of a treacherous  and   
malignant heart4  ,he addressed me in   
,spanish1 which1 as he resided  not far 
from the frontier1 he spoke with        
fluency2 but1 contrary to my  usual     
practice1 ,i was reserved and silent4   
,on the following morning ,i rose at    
seven1 and found that the party from    
,estremoz had started several hours     
previously4  ,i breakfasted with my     
acquaintance of the preceding night1 and
 we set out to accomplish what  remained
 of our journey4  ,the sun had now      
arisen1 and all his fears had  left     
him--he breathed defiance against all   
the robbers of the ,alemtejo4  ,when we 
had advanced about a league1 the boy who

 attended us said he saw  heads of men  
amongst the brushwood4  ,our cavalier   
instantly seized his  gun1 and1 causing 
his horse to make two or three lofty    
bounds1 held it in  one hand1 the muzzle
 pointed in the direction indicated2 but
 the heads  did not again make their    
appearance1 and it was probably but a   
false  alarm4    ,we resumed our way1   
and the conversation turned1 as might be
 expected1  upon robbers4  ,my          
companion1 who seemed to be acquainted  
with every inch  of ground over which we
 passed1 had a legend to tell of every  
dingle and  every pine-clump4  ,we      
reached a slight eminence1 on the top of
 which grew  three stately pines3 about 
half a league farther on was another    
similar  one4  ,these two eminences     
commanded a view of the road from ,peges
 and  ,vendas ,novas1 so that all people
 going and coming could be descried     
whilst yet at a distance4  ,my friend   
told me that these heights were         
favourite stations of robbers4  ,some   

two years since1 a band of six  mounted 
banditti remained there three days1 and 
plundered whomsoever  approached from   
either quarter4  ,their horses1 saddled 
and bridled1 stood  picqueted at the    
foot of the trees1 and two scouts1 one  
for each  eminence1 continually sat in  
the topmost branches1 and gave notice of
 the  approach of travellers4  ,when at 
a proper distance1 the robbers below    
sprung upon their horses1 and putting   
them to full gallop1 made at their      
prey1 shouting1 8,rendete1 ,picaro6     
,rendete1 ,picaro60 #eg  ,we1  however1 
passed unmolested1 and1 about a quarter 
of a mile before we  reached ,peges1    
overtook the family of the fidalgo4     
,had they been conveying the wealth of  
,ind through the deserts of ,arabia1    
they could not have travelled with more 
precaution4  ,the nephew1 with  drawn   
sabre1 rode in front2 pistols in his    
holsters1 and the usual  ,spanish gun   
slung at his saddle4  ,behind him       
tramped six men in a rank1  with muskets

 shouldered1 and each of them wore at   
his girdle a hatchet1  which was        
probably intended to cleave the thieves 
to the brisket should  they venture to  
come to close quarters4  ,there were six
 vehicles1 two of  them calashes1 in    
which latter rode the fidalgo and his   
daughters2 the  others were covered     
carts1 and seemed to be filled with     
household  furniture4  ,each of these   
vehicles had an armed rustic on either  
side2  and the son1 a lad about sixteen1
 brought up the rear with a squad equal 
to that of his cousin in the van4  ,the 
soldiers1 who1 by good fortune1  were   
light horse1 and admirably mounted1 were
 galloping about in all  directions1 for
 the purpose of driving the enemy from  
cover1 should they  happen to be lurking
 in the neighbourhood4    ,i could not  
help thinking1 as ,i passed by1 that    
this martial array was  very            
injudicious1 for though it was          
calculated to awe plunderers1 it was    
likewise calculated to allure them1 as  

it seemed to hint that immense  wealth  
was passing through their territories4  
,i do not know how the  soldiers and    
rustics would have behaved in case of an
 attack1 but am  inclined to believe    
that if three such men as ,richard      
,turpin had suddenly  galloped forth    
from behind one of the bush-covered     
knolls1 neither the  numbers nor        
resistance opposed to them would have   
prevented them from  bearing away the   
contents of the strong box jingling in  
their  saddle-bags4    ,from this moment
 nothing worthy of relating occurred    
till our arrival at  ,aldea ,gallega1   
where we passed the night1 and next     
morning at three  o'clock embarked in   
the passage-boat for ,lisbon1 where we  
arrived at  eight3 and thus terminates  
my first wandering in the ,alemtejo4    
,,chapter ,v4      ,the ,college--,the  
,rector--,shibboleth--,national         
,prejudices--,youthful  ,sports--,jews  
of ,lisbon--,bad ,faith--,crime and     
,superstition4    ,one afternoon        

,antonio said to me1 8,it has struck me1
 ,senhor1 #ei;a that  your worship would
 like to see the college of the ,english
 4 4 40 #ei;b  8,by all means10 ,i      
replied1 8pray conduct me thither40  ,so
 he led me  through various streets     
until we stopped before the gate of a   
large  building1 in one of the most     
elevated situations in ,lisbon4  ,upon  
our  ringing1 a kind of porter presently
 made his appearance1 and demanded our  
business4  ,antonio explained it to him4
  ,he hesitated for a moment2 but1      
presently bidding us enter1 conducted us
 to a large gloomy-looking stone  hall1 
where1 begging us to be seated1 he left 
us4  ,we were soon joined by  a         
venerable personage1 seemingly about    
seventy1 in a kind of flowing robe  or  
surplice1 with a collegiate cap upon his
 head4  ,notwithstanding his  age there 
was a ruddy tinge upon his features1    
which were perfectly  ,english4  ,coming
 slowly up he addressed me in the       
,english tongue1  requesting to know how

 he could serve me4  ,i informed him    
that ,i was an  ,english traveller1 and 
should be happy to be permitted to      
inspect the  college1 provided it were  
customary to show it to strangers4  ,he 
informed  me that there could be no     
objection to accede to my request1 but  
that ,i  came at rather an unfortunate  
moment1 it being the hour of refection4 
,i  apologized1 and was preparing to    
retire1 but he begged me to remain1 as  
in a few minutes the refection would be 
over1 when the principals of the        
college would do themselves the pleasure
 of waiting on me4    ,we sat down on   
the stone bench1 when he commenced      
surveying me  attentively for some time1
 and then cast his eyes on ,antonio4    
8,whom have  we here80 said he to the   
latter2 8surely your features are not   
unknown to  me40  8,probably not1 your  
reverence10 replied ,antonio1 getting   
up1 and  bowing most profoundly4  8,i   
lived in the family of the ,countess    
---1 at  ,cintra1 when your venerability

 was her spiritual guide40  8,true1     
true10  said the old gentleman1 sighing1
 8,i remember you now4  ,ah1 ,antonio1  
things are strangely changed since then4
  ,a new government--a new system--a    
new religion1 ,i may say40  ,then1      
looking again at me1 he demanded whither
  ,i was journeying4  8,i am going to   
,spain10 said ,i1 8and have stopped at  
,lisbon by the way40  8,spain1 ,spain60 
said the old man4  8,surely you have    
chosen a strange time to visit ,spain2  
there is much blood-shedding in  ,spain 
at present1 and violent wars and        
tumults40  8,i consider the cause  of   
,don ,carlos as already crushed10 ,i    
replied2 8he has lost the only  general 
capable of leading his armies to        
,madrid4  ,zumalacarregui1 his  ,cid1   
has fallen40  8,do not flatter yourself2
 ,i beg your pardon1 but do  not think1 
young man1 that the ,lord will permit   
the powers of darkness to  triumph so   
easily4  ,the cause of ,don ,carlos is  
not lost3 its success did  not depend on

 the life of a frail worm like him whom 
you have mentioned40  ,we continued in  
discourse some little time1 when he     
arose1 saying that by  this time he     
believed the refection was concluded4   
,he had scarcely left me five minutes   
when three individuals entered the      
stone hall1 and advanced slowly towards 
me4  ,the principals of the  college1   
said ,i to myself2 and so indeed they   
were4  ,the first of these  gentlemen1  
and to whom the other two appeared to   
pay considerable  deference1 was a thin1
 spare person1 somewhat above the middle
 height2  his complexion was very pale1 
his features emaciated but fine1 his    
eyes  dark and sparkling2 he might be   
about fifty4  ,the other two were men in
  the prime of life4  ,one was of rather
 low stature2 his features were  dark1  
and wore that pinched and mortified     
expression so frequently to be  observed
 in the countenance of the ,english 4 4 
43 the other was a bluff1  ruddy1 and   
rather good-looking young man4  ,all    

three were dressed alike  in the usual  
college cap and silk gown4  ,coming up1 
the eldest of the  three took me by the 
hand1 and thus addressed me in clear    
silvery tones3--    8,welcome1 sir1 to  
our poor house4  ,we are always happy to
 see in it a  countryman from our       
beloved native land2 it will afford us  
extreme  satisfaction to show you over  
it2 it is true that satisfaction is     
considerably diminished by the          
reflection that it possesses nothing    
worthy of the attention of a traveller2 
there is nothing curious  pertaining to 
it save1 perhaps1 its economy1 and that1
 as we walk about1  we will explain to  
you4  ,permit us1 first of all1 to      
introduce ourselves  to you4  ,i am     
rector of this poor ,english house of   
refuge2 this gentleman  is our professor
 of humanity2 and this0 7pointing to the
 ruddy personage7  8is our professor of 
polite learning1 ,hebrew1 and ,syriac40 
,myself4--,i humbly salute you all4     
,excuse me if ,i inquire who was the    

venerable gentleman who put himself to  
the inconvenience of staying with  me   
whilst ,i was awaiting your leisure4    
,rector4--,oh1 a most admirable         
personage1 our almoner1 our chaplain2 he
  came into this country before any of  
us were born1 and here he has  continued
 ever since4  ,now let us ascend that we
 may show you our poor  house4  ,but how
 is this1 my dear sir1 how is it that ,i
 see you standing  uncovered in our     
cold1 damp hall8    ,myself4--,i can    
easily explain that to you2 it is a     
custom which has  become quite natural  
to me4  ,i am just arrived from ,russia1
 where ,i have  spent some years4  ,a   
,russian invariably takes off his hat   
whenever he  enters beneath a roof1     
whether it pertain to hut1 shop1 or     
palace4  ,to  omit doing so would be    
considered as a mark of brutality and   
barbarism1  and for the following       
reason3 in every apartment of a ,russian
 house there  is a small picture of the 
,virgin stuck up in a corner1 just below

 the  ceiling--the hat is taken off out 
of respect to her4    ,quick glances of 
intelligence were exchanged by the three
 gentlemen4  ,i  had stumbled upon their
 shibboleth1 and proclaimed myself an   
,ephraimite1  and not of ,gilead4  ,i   
have no doubt that up to that moment    
they had  considered me as one of       
themselves--a member1 and perhaps a     
priest1 of  their own ancient1 grand1   
and imposing religion1 for such it is1  
,i must  confess--an error into which it
 was natural that they should fall4     
,what  motives could a ,protestant have 
for intruding upon their privacy8  ,what
  interest could he take in inspecting  
the economy of their establishment8  ,so
 far1 however1 from relaxing in their   
attention after this discovery1  their  
politeness visibly increased1 though1   
perhaps1 a scrutinizing  observer might 
have detected a shade of less cordiality
 in their manner4    ,rector4--,beneath 
the ceiling in every apartment8  ,i     
think ,i understood  you so4  ,how      

delightful--how truly interesting2 a    
picture of the ,blessed  ,virgin beneath
 the ceiling in every apartment of a    
,russian house6  ,truly1  this          
intelligence is as unexpected as it is  
delightful4  ,i shall from  this moment 
entertain a much higher opinion of the  
,russians than  hitherto--most truly an 
example worthy of imitation4  ,i wish   
sincerely  that it was our own practice 
to place an image of the ,blessed       
,virgin  beneath the ceiling in every   
corner of our houses4  ,what say you1   
our  professor of humanity8  ,what say  
you to the information so obligingly    
communicated to us by this excellent    
gentleman8    ,humanity ,professor4--,it
 is indeed most delightful1 most        
cheering1 ,i may  say2 but ,i confess   
that ,i was not altogether unprepared   
for it4  ,the  adoration of the ,blessed
 ,virgin is becoming every day more     
extended in  countries where it has     
hitherto been unknown or forgotten4     
,dr4 ,w---1  when he passed through     

,lisbon1 gave me some most interesting  
details with  respect to the labours of 
the propaganda in ,india4  ,even        
,england1 our own  beloved country4 4 4 
4    ,my obliging friends showed me all 
over their 8poor house40  ,it certainly 
did not appear a very rich one2 it was  
spacious1 but rather dilapidated4  ,the 
library was small1 and possessed nothing
 remarkable2 the view1  however1 from   
the roof1 over the greater part of      
,lisbon and the ,tagus1  was very grand 
and noble4  ,but ,i did not visit this  
place in the hope of  seeing busts1 or  
books1 or fine prospects1--,i visited   
this strange old  house to converse with
 its inmates2 for my favourite1 ,i might
 say my  only1 study is man4  ,i found  
these gentlemen much what ,i had        
anticipated2  for this was not the first
 time that ,i had visited an ,english 4 
4 4  establishment in a foreign land4   
,they were full of amiability and       
courtesy to their heretic countryman1   
and though the advancement of their     

religion was with them an object of     
paramount importance1 ,i soon found     
that1 with ludicrous inconsistency1 they
 cherished1 to a wonderful  degree1     
national prejudices almost extinct in   
the mother land1 even to  the           
disparagement of those of their own     
darling faith4  ,i spoke of the         
,english 4 4 41 of their high           
respectability1 and of the loyalty which
  they had uniformly displayed to their 
sovereign1 though of a different        
religion1 and by whom they had been not 
unfrequently subjected to much          
oppression and injustice4               
,rector4--,my dear sir1 ,i am rejoiced  
to hear you2 ,i see that you are well   
acquainted with the great body of those 
of our faith in ,england4  ,they  are1  
as you have well described them1 a most 
respectable and loyal body2  from       
loyalty1 indeed1 they never swerved1 and
 though they have been  accused of plots
 and conspiracies1 it is now well known 
that such had no  real existence1 but   

were merely calumnies invented by their 
religious  enemies4  ,during the civil  
wars the ,english 4 4 4 cheerfully shed 
their  blood and squandered their       
fortunes in the cause of the unfortunate
  martyr1 notwithstanding that he never 
favoured them1 and invariably  looked   
upon them with suspicion4  ,at present  
the ,english 4 4 4 are the  most devoted
 subjects of our gracious sovereign4  ,i
 should be happy if ,i  could say as    
much for our ,irish brethren2 but their 
conduct has been--oh1  detestable6  ,yet
 what can you expect8  ,the true 4 4 4  
blush for them4  ,a  certain person is a
 disgrace to the church of which he     
pretends to be the  servant4  ,where    
does he find in our canons sanction for 
his proceedings1  his undutiful         
expressions towards one who is his      
sovereign by divine  right1 and who can 
do no wrong8  ,and above all1 where does
 he find  authority for inflaming the   
passions of a vile mob against a nation 
intended by nature and by position to   

command them8    ,myself4--,i believe   
there is an ,irish college in this city8
    ,rector4--,i believe there is2 but  
it does not flourish2 there are few or  
no pupils4  ,oh6    ,i looked through a 
window1 at a great height1 and saw about
 twenty or  thirty fine lads sporting in
 a court below4  8,this is as it should 
be10  said ,i2 8those boys will not make
 worse priests from a little early      
devotion to trap-ball and cudgel        
playing4  ,i dislike a staid1 serious1  
puritanic education1 as ,i firmly       
believe that it encourages vice and     
hypocrisy40    ,we then went into the   
,rector's room1 where1 above a crucifix1
 was hanging  a small portrait4         
,myself4--,that was a great and         
portentous man1 honest withal4  ,i      
believe  the body of which he was the   
founder1 and which has been so much     
decried1  has effected infinitely more  
good than it has caused harm4           
,rector4--,what do ,i hear8  ,you1 an   
,englishman1 and a ,protestant1 and yet 

an admirer of ,ignatius ,loyola8        
,myself4--,i will say nothing with      
respect to the doctrine of the ,jesuits1
  for1 as you have observed1 ,i am a    
,protestant2 but ,i am ready to assert  
that there are no people in the world   
better qualified1 upon the whole1  to be
 entrusted with the education of youth4 
,their moral system and  discipline are 
truly admirable4  ,their pupils1 in     
after-life1 are seldom  vicious and     
licentious characters1 and are in       
general men of learning1  science1 and  
possessed of every elegant              
accomplishment4  ,i execrate the        
conduct of the liberals of ,madrid in   
murdering last year the helpless        
fathers1 by whose care and instruction  
two of the finest minds of ,spain  have 
been evolved--the two ornaments of the  
liberal cause and modern  literature of 
,spain1 for such are ,toreno and        
,martinez de la ,rosa4 #ff 4  4 4       
,gathered in small clusters about the   
pillars at the lower extremities of  the

 gold and silver streets in ,lisbon1 may
 be observed1 about noon in  every day1 
certain strange-looking men whose       
appearance is neither  ,portuguese nor  
,european4  ,their dress generally      
consists of a red cap1  with a blue     
silken tassel at the top of it1 a blue  
tunic girded at the  waist with a red   
sash1 and wide linen pantaloons or      
trousers4  ,he who  passes by these     
groups generally hears them conversing  
in broken ,spanish  or ,portuguese1 and 
occasionally in a harsh guttural        
language1 which the  oriental traveller 
knows to be the ,arabic1 or a dialect   
thereof4  ,these  people are the ,jews  
of ,lisbon4 #fg;a  ,into the midst of   
one of these  groups ,i one day         
introduced myself1 and pronounced a     
beraka1 or  blessing4  ,i have lived in 
different parts of the world1 much      
amongst the  ,hebrew race1 and am well  
acquainted with their ways and          
phraseology4  ,i  was rather anxious to 
become acquainted with the state of the 

,portuguese  ,jews1 and ,i had now an   
opportunity4  8,the man is a powerful   
rabbi10 said  a voice in ,arabic2 8it   
behoves us to treat him kindly40  ,they 
welcomed  me4  ,i favoured their        
mistake1 and in a few days ,i knew all  
that related  to them and their traffic 
in ,lisbon4 #fg;b    ,the ,jews of      
,europe at the present time are divided 
into two  classes--synagogues1 as some  
call them--the ,portuguese and ,german4 
,of  these the most celebrated is the   
,portuguese4  ,jews of this class are   
generally considered as more polished   
than the others1 better educated1  and  
more deeply versed both in the language 
of ,scripture and the  traditions of    
their forefathers4  ,in ,london there is
 a stately edifice  which is termed the 
synagogue of the ,portuguese ,jews1     
where the rites of  the ,hebrew religion
 are performed with all possible        
splendour and  magnificence4  ,knowing  
all this1 one would naturally expect1 on
 arriving  in ,portugal1 to find one's  

self in the head-quarters of that       
,judaism with  which the mind has been  
accustomed to associate so much that is 
respectable and imposing4  ,it was1     
therefore1 with feelings of             
considerable surprise that ,i heard from
 the beings1 whom ,i have attempted  to 
describe above1 the following account of
 themselves3--8,we are not of           
,portugal10 said they2 8we come from    
,barbary1 some from ,algier1 some from  
the ,levant1 but mostly from ,barbary1  
yonder-away60  ,and they pointed to  the
 south-west4    8,and where are the     
,jews of ,portugal10 ,i demanded3 8the  
proper children of  the country80       
8,we know of none but ourselves10       
replied the ,barbaresques1 8though we   
have heard say that there are others3 if
 so1 they do not come near us1  and they
 do right1 for we are an evil people1 ,o
 thou ,tsadik1 and  thieves to a man4   
,a ship comes every year from ,swirah2  
#fh it brings a  cargo of thieves1 for  
it brings ,jews40    8,and your wives   

and families10 said ,i1 8where are      
they80    8,in ,swirah1 or ,salee1 or   
other places from whence we come4  ,we  
bring not  our wives with us1 nor our   
families3 many of us have escaped hither
  barely with life1 flying from the     
punishment due to our crimes4  ,some    
live in sin with the daughters of the   
,nazarene3 for we are an evil race1  ,o 
,tsadik1 and do not observe the precepts
 of the law40    8,and have you         
synagogues and teachers80    8,both1 ,o 
thou righteous one1 yet little can be   
said of either3 our  chenourain are vile
 places1 and our teachers are like      
ourselves1 bound  in the galoot of sin4 
,one of them keeps in his house a       
daughter of the  ,nazarene2 he is from  
,swirah1 and what good ever came from   
that shore80    8,you say your teachers 
are evil3 do ye hearken unto their      
words80    8,of course we hearken unto  
them3 how could we do else and live8    
,our  teachers are evil men1 and live by
 fraud1 like ourselves2 yet still are   

they masters1 men to be dreaded and     
obeyed4  ,have they not witchcraft at   
their command1 and angels8  ,have they  
not words of power1 and the ,shem       
,hamphorash8 #fi  ,were we not to       
hearken to them1 could they not consign 
our souls to horror1 to mist and vapour1
 to mire and clay8  ,even as thou       
couldst1 ,o righteous one60    ,such was
 the extraordinary language in connexion
 with themselves which  they held to me1
 and which ,i have no reason to doubt1  
as it was  subsequently corroborated in 
more ways than one4  ,how well do       
superstition and crime go hand in hand6 
,these wretched beings break the        
eternal commandments of their ,maker    
without scruple2 but they will not      
partake of the beast of the uncloven    
foot1 and the fish which has no  scales4
  ,they pay slight regard to the        
denunciations of holy prophets  against 
the children of sin1 but they quake at  
the sound of a dark  cabalistic word    
pronounced by one perhaps their equal or

 superior in  villany2 as if1 as has    
been well observed1 ,god would delegate 
the  exercise of his power to the       
workers of iniquity4    ,it is quite    
certain that at one period the ,jews of 
,portugal were  deservedly celebrated   
for wealth1 learning1 and polished      
manners2 the  ,inquisition1 however1    
played sad havoc with them4  ,those who 
escaped the  auto da f1 without becoming
 converts to ,popish idolatry1 took     
refuge  in foreign lands1 particularly  
in ,england1 where they still retain    
their  original designation4  ,at       
present1 notwithstanding all religions  
are  tolerated in ,portugal1 the genuine
 ,jews of the country do not show       
themselves2 #gj in their stead are seen 
the rabble of ,barbary1 and these  only 
in the streets of ,lisbon--outcasts who 
make no secret of their own             
degradation4          ,,chapter ,,vi4   
,cold of ,portugal--,extortion          
prevented--,sensation of                
,loneliness--,the ,dog--,the            

,convent--,enchanting                   
,landscape--,moorish                    
,fortresses--,prayer for the ,sick4     
,about a fortnight after my return from 
,evora1 having made the necessary       
preparations1 ,i set out on my journey  
for ,badajoz1 from which town ,i        
intended to take the diligence to       
,madrid4  ,badajoz lies about a hundred 
miles distant from ,lisbon1 and is the  
principal frontier town of ,spain in    
the direction of the ,alemtejo4  ,to    
reach this place1 it was necessary to   
re-travel the road as far as ,monte     
,moro1 which ,i had already passed in my
  excursion to ,evora2 ,i had therefore 
very little pleasure to anticipate  from
 novelty of scenery4  ,moreover1 in this
 journey ,i should be a  solitary       
traveller1 with no other companion than 
the muleteer1 as it was  my intention to
 take my servant no farther than ,aldea 
,gallega1 for which  place ,i started at
 four in the afternoon4  ,warned by     
former experience1 ,i  did not now      

embark in a small boat1 but in one of   
the regular passage  felouks1 in which  
we reached ,aldea ,gallega1 after a     
voyage of six hours2  for the boat was  
heavy1 there was no wind to propel it1  
and the crew were  obliged to ply their 
huge oars the whole way4  ,in a word1   
this passage  was the reverse of the    
first--safe in every respect1 but so    
sluggish and  tiresome1 that ,i a       
hundred times wished myself again under 
the guidance  of the wild lad1 galloping
 before the hurricane over the foaming  
billows4  ,from eight till ten the cold 
was truly terrible1 and though ,i was   
closely  wrapped in an excellent fur    
shoob1 with which ,i had braved the     
frosts  of ,russian winters1 ,i shivered
 in every limb1 and was far more        
rejoiced  when ,i again set my foot on  
the ,alemtejo1 than when ,i landed for  
the  first time1 after having escaped   
the horrors of the tempest4    ,i took  
up my quarters for the night at a house 
to which my friend who  feared the      

darkness had introduced me on my return 
from ,evora1 and where1  though ,i paid 
mercilessly dear for everything1 the    
accommodation was  superior to that of  
the common inn in the square4  ,my first
 care now was  to inquire for mules to  
convey myself and baggage to ,elvas1    
from whence  there are but three short  
leagues to the ,spanish town of         
,badajoz4  ,the  people of the house    
informed me that they had an excellent  
pair at my  disposal1 but when ,i       
inquired the price1 they were not       
ashamed to demand  four moidores4  ,i   
offered them three1 which was too much1 
but which1  however1 they did not       
accept2 for1 knowing me to be an        
,englishman1 they  thought they had an  
excellent opportunity to practise       
imposition1 not  imagining that a person
 so rich as an ,englishman must be1     
would go out  in a cold night for the   
sake of obtaining a reasonable bargain4 
,they  were1 however1 much mistaken1 as 
,i told them that rather than encourage 

them in their knavery ,i should be      
content to return to ,lisbon2 whereupon 
they dropped their demand to three and a
 half2 but ,i made them no answer1  and1
 going out with ,antonio1 proceeded to  
the house of the old man who  had       
accompanied us to ,evora4  ,we knocked a
 considerable time1 for he was  in bed2 
at length he arose and admitted us1 but 
on hearing our object1 he  said that his
 mules were again gone to ,evora1 under 
the charge of the  boy1 for the purpose 
of transporting some articles of        
merchandize4  ,he1  however1 recommended
 us to a person in the neighbourhood who
 kept mules  for hire1 and there        
,antonio engaged two fine beasts for two
 moidores  and a half4  ,i say he       
engaged them1 for ,i stood aloof and    
spoke not1  and the proprietor1 who     
exhibited them1 and who stood half      
dressed1 with  a lamp in his hand1 and  
shivering with cold1 was not aware that 
they were  intended for a foreigner till
 the agreement was made1 and he had     

received  a part of the sum in earnest4 
,i returned to the inn well pleased1 and
  having taken some refreshment1 went to
 rest1 paying little attention to  the  
people1 who glanced daggers at me from  
their small ,jewish eyes4    ,at five   
the next morning the mules were at the  
door4  ,a lad of some  nineteen or      
twenty years of age attended them4  ,he 
was short1 but  exceedingly strong      
built1 and possessed the largest head   
which ,i ever  beheld upon mortal       
shoulders2 neck he had none1 at least ,i
 could discern  nothing which could be  
entitled to that name4  ,his features   
were  hideously ugly1 and upon          
addressing him ,i discovered that he was
 an  idiot4  ,such was my intended      
companion in a journey of nearly a      
hundred  miles1 which would occupy four 
days1 and which lay over the most savage
  and ill-noted track in the whole      
kingdom4  ,i took leave of my servant   
almost with tears1 for he had always    
served me with the greatest  fidelity1  

and had exhibited an assiduity and a    
wish to please which  afforded me the   
utmost satisfaction4    ,we started1 my 
uncouth guide sitting tailor-fashion on 
the sumpter mule1  upon the baggage4    
,the moon had just gone down1 and the   
morning was  pitchy dark1 and1 as usual1
 piercingly cold4  ,we soon entered the 
dismal  wood1 which ,i had already      
traversed1 and through which we wended  
our way  for some time1 slowly and      
mournfully4  ,not a sound was to be     
heard save  the trampling of the        
animals1 not a breath of air moved the  
leafless  branches1 no animal stirred in
 the thickets1 no bird1 not even the    
owl1  flew over our heads1 all seemed   
desolate and dead2 and during my many   
and  far wanderings1 ,i never           
experienced a greater sensation of      
loneliness1  and a greater desire for   
conversation and an exchange of ideas   
than then4  ,to speak to the idiot was  
useless1 for though competent to show   
the road1  with which he was well       

acquainted1 he had no other answer than 
an uncouth  laugh to any question put to
 him4  ,thus situated1 like many other  
persons  when human comfort is not at   
hand1 ,i turned my heart to ,god1 and   
began to  commune with ,him1 the result 
of which was that my mind soon became   
quieted and comforted4    ,we passed on 
our way uninterrupted2 no thieves showed
 themselves1 nor  indeed did we see a   
single individual until we arrived at   
,peges1 and  from thence to ,vendas     
,novas our fortune was the same4  ,i was
 welcomed  with great kindness by the   
people of the hostelry of the latter    
place1  who were well acquainted with me
 on account of my having twice passed   
the  night under their roof4  ,the name 
of the keeper of this inn is1 or was1   
,joz ,dias ,azido1 and1 unlike the      
generality of those of the same         
profession as himself in ,portugal1 he  
is an honest man2 and a stranger  and   
foreigner who takes up his quarters at  
his inn may rest assured that  he will  

not be most unmercifully pillaged and   
cheated when the hour of  reckoning     
shall arrive1 as he will not be charged 
a single r #ge more  than a native      
,portuguese on a similar occasion4  ,i  
paid at this place  exactly one-half of 
the sum which was demanded from me at   
,arroyolos1  where ,i passed the ensuing
 night1 and where the accommodation was 
in  every respect inferior4    ,at      
twelve next day we arrived at ,monte    
,moro1 and1 as ,i was not pressed  for  
time1 ,i determined upon viewing the    
ruins which cover the top and  middle   
part of the stately hill which towers   
above the town4  ,having  ordered some  
refreshment at the inn where we         
dismounted1 ,i ascended till  ,i arrived
 at a large wall or rampart1 which1 at a
 certain altitude1  embraces the whole  
hill4  ,i crossed a rude bridge of      
stones1 which  bestrides a small hollow 
or trench2 and passing by a large tower1
 entered  through a portal into the     
enclosed part of the hill4  ,on the left

 hand  stood a church1 in good          
preservation1 and still devoted to the  
purposes  of religion1 but which ,i     
could not enter1 as the door was locked1
 and ,i  saw no one at hand to open it4 
,i soon found that my curiosity had led 
me to a most extraordinary place1  which
 quite beggars the scanty powers of     
description with which ,i am  gifted4   
,i stumbled on amongst ruined walls1 and
 at one time found ,i was  treading over
 vaults1 as ,i suddenly started back    
from a yawning orifice  into which my   
next step1 as ,i strolled musing along1 
would have  precipitated me4  ,i        
proceeded for a considerable way by the 
eastern wall1  till ,i heard a          
tremendous bark1 and presently an       
immense dog1 such as  those which guard 
the flocks in the neighbourhood against 
the wolves1  came bounding to attack me 
8with eyes that glowed1 and fangs that  
grinned40  ,had ,i retreated1 or had    
recourse to any other mode of defence   
than that which ,i invariably practise  

under such circumstances1 he would      
probably have worried me2 but ,i stooped
 till my chin nearly touched my  knee1  
and looked him full in the eyes1 and1 as
 ,john ,leyden says1 in the  noblest    
ballad which the ,land of ,heather has  
produced3--        8,the hound he       
yowled1 and back he fled1         ,as   
struck with fairy charm40 #gf    ,it is 
a fact known to many people1 and ,i     
believe it has been frequently  stated1 
that no large and fierce dog or animal  
of any kind1 with the  exception of the 
bull1 which shuts its eyes and rushes   
blindly forward1  will venture to attack
 an individual who confronts it with a  
firm and  motionless countenance4  ,i   
say large and fierce1 for it is much    
easier to  repel a bloodhound or bear of
 ,finland in this manner than a         
dung-hill cur  or a terrier1 against    
which a stick or a stone is a much more 
certain  defence4  ,this will astonish  
no one who considers that the calm      
reproving  glance of reason1 which      

allays the excesses of the mighty and   
courageous  in our own species1 has     
seldom any other effect than to add to  
the  insolence of the feeble and        
foolish1 who become placid as doves upon
 the  infliction of chastisements1      
which1 if attempted to be applied to the
  former1 would only serve to render    
them more terrible1 and1 like  gunpowder
 cast on a flame1 cause them1 in mad    
desperation1 to scatter  destruction    
around them4    ,the barking of the dog 
brought out from a kind of alley an     
elderly man1  whom ,i supposed to be his
 master1 and of whom ,i made some       
inquiries  respecting the place4  ,the  
man was civil1 and informed me that he  
served  as a soldier in the ,british    
army1 under the 8great lord10 during the
  ,peninsula war4  ,he said that there  
was a convent of nuns a little farther  
on1 which he would show me1 and         
thereupon led the way to the south-east 
part of the wall1 where stood a large   
dilapidated edifice4    ,we entered a   

dark stone apartment1 at one corner of  
which was a kind of  window occupied by 
a turning table1 at which articles were 
received into  the convent or delivered 
out4  ,he rang the bell1 and1 without   
saying a  word1 retired1 leaving me     
rather perplexed2 but presently ,i      
heard1 though  the speaker was          
invisible1 a soft feminine voice        
demanding who ,i was1 and  what ,i      
wanted4  ,i replied1 that ,i was an     
,englishman travelling into  ,spain2 and
 that1 passing through ,monte ,moro1 ,i 
had ascended the hill for  the purpose  
of seeing the ruins4  ,the voice then   
said1 8,i suppose you are  a military   
man going to fight against the king1    
like the rest of your  countrymen80     
8,no10 said ,i1 8,i am not a military   
man1 but a ,christian2  and ,i go not to
 shed blood1 but to endeavour to        
introduce the gospel of  ,christ into a 
country where it is not known20         
whereupon there was a  stifled titter4  
,i then inquired if there were any      

copies of the ,holy  ,scriptures in the 
convent2 but the friendly voice could   
give me no  information on that point1  
and ,i scarcely believe that its        
possessor  understood the purport of my 
question4  ,it informed me1 that the    
office  of lady abbess of the house was 
an annual one1 and that every year there
  was a fresh superior4  ,on my         
inquiring whether the nuns did not      
frequently find the time exceedingly    
heavy on their hands1 it stated  that1  
when they had nothing better to do1 they
 employed themselves in  making         
cheesecakes1 which were disposed of in  
the neighbourhood4  ,i  thanked the     
voice for its communications1 and walked
 away4  ,whilst  proceeding under the   
wall of the house towards the           
south-west1 ,i heard a  fresh and louder
 tittering above my head1 and1 looking  
up1 saw three or  four windows crowded  
with dusky faces1 and black waving hair2
 these  belonged to the nuns1 anxious to
 obtain a view of the stranger4  ,after 

kissing my hand repeatedly1 ,i moved on1
 and soon arrived at the  south-west end
 of this mountain of curiosities4       
,there ,i found the  remains of a large 
building1 which seemed to have been     
originally erected  in the shape of a   
cross4  ,a tower at its eastern entrance
 was still  entire2 the western side was
 quite in ruins1 and stood on the verge 
of  the hill overlooking the valley1 at 
the bottom of which ran the stream ,i   
have spoken of on a former occasion4    
,the day was intensely hot1             
notwithstanding the coldness of the     
preceding  nights2 and the brilliant sun
 of ,portugal now illumined a landscape 
of  entrancing beauty4  ,groves of      
cork-trees covered the farther side of  
the  valley and the distant acclivities1
 exhibiting here and there charming     
vistas1 where various flocks of cattle  
were feeding2 the soft murmur of  the   
stream1 which was at intervals chafed   
and broken by huge stones1  ascended to 
my ears and filled my mind with         

delicious feelings4  ,i sat  down on the
 broken wall and remained gazing1 and   
listening1 and shedding  tears of       
rapture2 for of all the pleasures which 
a bountiful ,god  permitteth his        
children to enjoy1 none are so dear to  
some hearts as the  music of forests and
 streams1 and the view of the beauties  
of his  glorious creation4  ,an hour    
elapsed1 and ,i still maintained my seat
 on  the wall2 the past scenes of my    
life flitting before my eyes in airy and
  fantastic array1 through which every  
now and then peeped trees and hills1    
and other patches of the real landscape 
which ,i was confronting4  ,the sun     
burnt my visage1 but ,i heeded it not2  
and ,i believe that ,i should have      
remained till night1 buried in these    
reveries1 which1 ,i confess1 only  serve
 to enervate the mind and steal many a  
minute which might be more  profitably  
employed1 had not the report of the gun 
of a fowler in the  valley1 which       
awakened the echoes of the woods1 hills1

 and ruins1 caused  me to start on my   
feet1 and remember that ,i had to       
proceed three leagues  before ,i could  
reach the hostelry where ,i intended to 
pass the night4    ,i bent my steps to  
the inn1 passing along a kind of        
rampart4  ,shortly  before ,i reached   
the portal1 which ,i have already       
mentioned1 ,i observed a  kind of vault 
on my right hand1 scooped out of the    
side of the hill2 its  roof was         
supported by three pillars1 though part 
of it had given way  towards the farther
 end1 so that the light was admitted    
through a chasm  in the top4  ,it might 
have been intended for a chapel1 a      
dungeon1 or a  cemetery1 but ,i should  
rather think for the latter4  ,one thing
 ,i am  certain of1 that it was not the 
work of ,moorish hands2 and indeed      
throughout my wandering in this place ,i
 saw nothing which reminded me of  that 
most singular people4  ,the hill on     
which the ruins stand was  doubtless    
originally a strong fortress of the     

,moors1 who1 upon their  first irruption
 into the peninsula1 seized and         
fortified most of the  lofty and        
naturally strong positions1 but they had
 probably lost it at an  early period1  
so that the broken walls and edifices1  
which at present  cover the hill1 are   
probably remains of the labours of the  
,christians  after the place had been   
rescued from the hands of the terrible  
enemies  of their faith4  ,monte ,moro  
will perhaps recall ,cintra to the mind 
of the  traveller1 as it exhibits a     
distant resemblance to that place2      
nevertheless1 there is something in     
,cintra wild and savage1 to which       
,monte ,moro has no pretension4  ,its   
scathed and gigantic crags are piled    
upon each other in a manner which seems 
to menace headlong destruction to       
whatever is in the neighbourhood2 and   
the ruins which still cling to  those   
crags seem more like eagles' nests than 
the remains of the  habitations even of 
,moors2 whereas those of ,monte ,moro   

stand  comparatively at their ease on   
the broad back of a hill1 which1 though 
stately and commanding1 has no crags nor
 precipices1 and which can be  ascended 
on every side without much difficulty4  
,yet ,i was much gratified  by my visit1
 and ,i shall wander far indeed before  
,i forget the voice in  the dilapidated 
convent1 the ruined walls amongst which 
,i strayed1 and  the rampart1 where1    
sunk in dreamy rapture1 ,i sat during a 
bright sunny  hour at ,monte ,moro4     
,i returned to the inn1 where ,i        
refreshed myself with tea and very sweet
  and delicious cheesecakes1 the        
handiwork of the nuns in the convent    
above4  ,observing gloom and unhappiness
 on the countenances of the people  of  
the house1 ,i inquired the reason of the
 hostess1 who sat almost  motionless on 
the hearth by the fire2 whereupon she   
informed me that her  husband was deadly
 sick with a disorder which1 from her   
description1 ,i  supposed to be a       
species of cholera2 she added1 that the 

surgeon who  attended him entertained no
 hopes of his recovery4  ,i replied that
 it was  quite in the power of ,god to  
restore her husband in a few hours from 
the  verge of the grave to health and   
vigour1 and that it was her duty to pray
  to that ,omnipotent ,being with all   
fervency4  ,i added1 that if she did not
  know how to pray upon such an         
occasion1 ,i was ready to pray for her1 
provided she would join in the spirit of
 the supplication4  ,i then  offered up 
a short prayer in ,portuguese1 in which 
,i entreated the ,lord to  remove1 if he
 thought proper1 the burden of          
affliction under which the  family was  
labouring4    ,the woman listened       
attentively1 with her hands devoutly    
clasped1 until  the prayer was finished1
 and then gazed at me seemingly with    
astonishment1 but uttered no word by    
which ,i could gather that she was      
pleased or displeased with what ,i had  
said4  ,i now bade the family  farewell1
 and having mounted my mule1 set forward

 to ,arroyolos4 #ha          ,,chapter  
,,vii4      ,the ,druid's ,stone--,the  
,young ,spaniard--,ruffianly            
,soldiers--,evils of                    
,war--,estremoz--,the ,brawl--,ruined   
,watch-tower--,glimpse of ,spain--,old  
,times and  ,new4    ,after proceeding  
about a league and a half1 a blast came 
booming from the  north1 rolling before 
it immense clouds of dust2 happily it   
did not blow  in our faces1 or it would 
have been difficult to proceed1 so great
 was  its violence4  ,we had left the   
road in order to take advantage of one  
of  those short cuts1 which1 though     
passable for a horse or a mule1 are far 
too rough to permit any species of      
carriage to travel along them4  ,we     
were in the midst of sands1 brushwood1  
and huge pieces of rock1 which  thickly 
studded the ground4  ,these are the     
stones which form the  sierras of ,spain
 and ,portugal2 those singular mountains
 which rise in  naked horridness1 like  
the ribs of some mighty carcass from    

which the  flesh has been torn4  ,many  
of these stones1 or rocks1 grew out of  
the  earth1 and many lay on its surface 
unattached1 perhaps wrested from their  
beds by the waters of the deluge4       
,whilst toiling along these wild        
wastes1 ,i observed1 a little way to my 
left1 a pile of stones of rather a      
singular appearance1 and rode up to it4 
,it was a ,druidical altar1 and  the    
most perfect and beautiful one of the   
kind which ,i had ever seen4  ,it  was  
circular1 and consisted of stones       
immensely large and heavy at the        
bottom1 which towards the top became    
thinner and thinner1 having been        
fashioned by the hand of art to         
something of the shape of scollop       
shells4  ,these were surmounted by a    
very large flat stone1 which slanted    
down  towards the south1 where was a    
door4  ,three or four individuals might 
have taken shelter within the interior1 
in which was growing a small            
thorn-tree4    ,i gazed with reverence  

and awe upon the pile where the first   
colonies of  ,europe offered their      
worship to the unknown ,god4 #hc  ,the  
temples of the  mighty and skilful      
,roman1 comparatively of modern date1   
have crumbled to  dust in its           
neighbourhood4  ,the churches of the    
,arian ,goth1 his successor  in power1  
have sunk beneath the earth1 and are not
 to be found2 and the  mosques of the   
,moor1 the conqueror of the ,goth1 where
 and what are they8  ,upon the rock1    
masses of hoary and vanishing ruin4     
,not so the ,druid's  stone2 there it   
stands on the hill of winds1 as strong  
and as freshly new  as the day1 perhaps 
thirty centuries back1 when it was first
 raised1 by  means which are a mystery4 
,earthquakes have heaved it1 but its    
cope-stone has not fallen2 rain floods  
have deluged it1 but failed to  sweep it
 from its station2 the burning sun has  
flashed upon it1 but  neither split nor 
crumbled it2 and time1 stern old time1  
has rubbed it  with his iron tooth1 and 

with what effect let those who view it  
declare4  ,there it stands1 and he who  
wishes to study the literature1 the     
learning1  and the history of the       
ancient ,celt and ,cymbrian1 may gaze on
 its broad  covering1 and glean from    
that blank stone the whole known amount4
  ,the  ,roman has left behind him his  
deathless writings1 his history1 and his
  songs2 the ,goth his liturgy1 his     
traditions1 and the germs of noble      
institutions2 the ,moor his chivalry1   
his discoveries in medicine1 and the    
foundations of modern commerce2 and     
where is the memorial of the ,druidic   
races8  ,yonder3 that pile of eternal   
stone6    ,we arrived at ,arroyolos     
about seven at night4  ,i took          
possession of a  large two-bedded room1 
and1 as ,i was preparing to sit down to 
supper1 the  hostess came to inquire    
whether ,i had any objection to receive 
a young  ,spaniard for the night4  ,she 
said he had just arrived with a train of
  muleteers1 and that she had no other  

room in which she could lodge him4  ,i  
replied that ,i was willing1 and in     
about half an hour he made his          
appearance1 having first supped with his
 companions4  ,he was a very            
gentlemanly1 good-looking lad of        
seventeen4  ,he addressed me in his     
native language1 and1 finding that ,i   
understood him1 he commenced talking    
with astonishing volubility4  ,in the   
space of five minutes he informed me    
that1 having a desire to see the world1 
he had run away from his friends1  who  
were people of opulence at ,madrid1 and 
that he did not intend to  return until 
he had travelled through various        
countries4  ,i told him that  if what he
 said was true1 he had done a very      
wicked and foolish action2  wicked1     
because he must have overwhelmed those  
with grief whom he was  bound to honour 
and love1 and foolish1 inasmuch as he   
was going to expose  himself to         
inconceivable miseries and hardships1   
which would shortly  cause him to rue   

the step he had taken2 that he would be 
only welcome in  foreign countries so   
long as he had money to spend1 and when 
he had none1  he would be repulsed as a 
vagabond1 and would perhaps be allowed  
to  perish of hunger4  ,he replied that 
he had a considerable sum of money  with
 him1 no less than a hundred dollars1   
which would last him a long  time1 and  
that when it was spent he should perhaps
 be able to obtain  more4  8,your       
hundred dollars10 said ,i1 8will        
scarcely last you three  months in the  
country in which you are1 even if it be 
not stolen from  you2 and you may as    
well hope to gather money on the tops of
 the  mountains as expect to procure    
more by honourable means40  ,but he had 
not  yet sufficiently drank of the cup  
of experience to attend much to what ,i 
said1 and ,i soon after changed the     
subject4  ,about five next morning he   
came to my bedside to take leave1 as his
 muleteers were preparing to  depart4   
,i gave him the usual ,spanish          

valediction1 ,vaya usted con ,dios1  #he
 and saw no more of him4    ,at nine1   
after having paid a most exorbitant sum 
for slight  accommodation1 ,i started   
from ,arroyolos1 which is a town or     
large village  situated on very elevated
 ground1 and discernible afar off4  ,it 
can boast  of the remains of a large    
ancient and seemingly ,moorish castle1  
which  stands on a hill on the left as  
you take the road to ,estremoz4         
,about a mile from ,arroyolos ,i        
overtook a train of carts1 escorted by a
  number of ,portuguese soldiers        
conveying stores and ammunition into    
,spain4  ,six or seven of these soldiers
 marched a considerable way in front2   
they  were villanous-looking ruffians1  
upon whose livid and ghastly            
countenances were written murder1 and   
all the other crimes which the          
,decalogue forbids4  ,as ,i passed by1  
one of them1 with a harsh1 croaking     
voice1 commenced cursing all foreigners4
  8,there10 said he1 8is this           

,frenchman riding on horseback0 7,i was 
on a mule71 8with a man0 7the  idiot7   
8to take care of him1 and all because he
 is rich2 whilst ,i1 who am  a poor     
soldier1 am obliged to tramp on foot4   
,i could find it in my heart  to shoot  
him dead1 for in what respect is he     
better than ,i8  ,but he is a           
foreigner1 and the devil helps          
foreigners and hates the ,portuguese40  
,he  continued shouting his remarks     
until ,i got about forty yards in       
advance1  when ,i commenced laughing2   
but it would have been more prudent in  
me to  have held my peace1 for the next 
moment1 with bang--bang1 two bullets1   
well aimed1 came whizzing past my ears4 
,a small river lay just before  me1     
though the bridge was a considerable way
 on my left4  ,i spurred my  animal     
through it1 closely followed by the     
terrified guide1 and commenced          
galloping along a sandy plain on the    
other side1 and so escaped with my      
life4    ,these fellows1 with the look  

of banditti1 were in no respect better2 
and  the traveller who should meet them 
in a solitary place would have little   
reason to bless his good fortune4  ,one 
of the carriers 7all of whom were       
,spaniards from the neighbourhood of    
,badajoz1 and had been despatched into  
,portugal for the purpose of conveying  
the stores71 whom ,i afterwards met  in 
the aforesaid town1 informed me that the
 whole party were equally bad1  and that
 he and his companions had been         
plundered by them of various  articles1 
and threatened with death if they       
attempted to complain4  ,how  frightful 
to figure to one's self an army of such 
beings in a foreign  land1 sent thither 
either to invade or defend2 and yet     
,spain at the time  ,i am writing this  
is looking forward to armed assistance  
from ,portugal6  ,may the ,lord in his  
mercy grant that the soldiers who       
proceed to her  assistance may be of a  
different stamp3 and yet1 from the lax  
state of  discipline which exists in the

 ,portuguese army1 in comparison with   
that  of ,england and ,france1 ,i am    
afraid that the inoffensive population  
of the  disturbed provinces will say    
that wolves have been summoned to chase 
away  foxes from the sheep-fold4  ,oh1  
may ,i live to see the day when soldiery
  will no longer be tolerated in any    
civilized1 or at least ,christian       
country6    ,i pursued my route to      
,estremoz1 passing by ,monte ,moro      
,novo1 which is a  tall dusky hill1     
surmounted by an ancient edifice1       
probably ,moorish4  ,the  country was   
dreary and deserted1 but offering here  
and there a valley  studded with        
cork-trees and azinheiras4  ,after      
midday the wind1 which  during the night
 and morning had much abated1 again blew
 with such  violence as nearly to       
deprive me of my senses1 though it was  
still in our  rear4    ,i was heartily  
glad when1 on ascending a rising ground1
 at about four  o'clock1 ,i saw         
,estremoz on its hill at something less 

than a league's  distance4  ,here the   
view became wildly interesting2 the sun 
was sinking  in the midst of red and    
stormy clouds1 and its rays were        
reflected on the  dun walls of the lofty
 town to which we were wending4  ,not   
far distant to  the south-west rose     
,serra ,dorso1 which ,i had seen from   
,evora1 and which  is the most beautiful
 mountain in the ,alemtejo4  ,my idiot  
guide turned  his uncouth visage towards
 it1 and1 becoming suddenly inspired1   
opened  his mouth for the first time    
during the day1 ,i might almost say     
since we  had left ,aldea ,gallega1 and 
began to tell me what rare hunting was  
to be  obtained in that mountain4  ,he  
likewise described with great minuteness
 a  wonderful dog1 which was kept in the
 neighbourhood for the purpose of       
catching the wolves and wild boars1 and 
for which the proprietor had  refused   
twenty moidores4    ,at length we       
reached ,estremoz1 and took up our      
quarters at the principal  inn1 which   

looks upon a large plain or market-place
 occupying the centre  of the town1 and 
which is so extensive that ,i should    
think ten thousand  soldiers at least   
might perform their evolutions there    
with ease4    ,the cold was far too     
terrible to permit me to remain in the  
chamber to  which ,i had been conducted2
 ,i therefore went down to a kind of    
kitchen on  one side of the arched      
passage1 which led under the house to   
the yard and  stables4  ,a tremendous   
withering blast poured through this     
passage1 like  the water through the    
flush of a mill4  ,a large cork-tree was
 blazing in  the kitchen beneath a      
spacious chimney2 and around it were    
gathered a  noisy crew of peasants and  
farmers from the neighbourhood1 and     
three or  four ,spanish smugglers from  
the frontier4  ,i with difficulty       
obtained a  place amongst them1 as a    
,portuguese or a ,spaniard will seldom  
make way  for a stranger1 till called   
upon or pushed aside1 but prefers gazing

 upon  him with an expression which     
seems to say1 8,i know what you want1   
but ,i  prefer remaining where ,i am40  
,i now first began to observe an        
alteration in the language spoken2 it   
had  become less sibilant1 and more     
guttural2 and1 when addressing each     
other1  the speakers used the ,spanish  
title of courtesy usted1 or your        
worthiness1 instead of the ,portuguese  
high-flowing vossem se1 #hi or  your    
lordship4  ,this is the result of       
constant communication with the  natives
 of ,spain1 who never condescend to     
speak ,portuguese1 even when in         
,portugal1 but persist in the use of    
their own beautiful language1 which1    
perhaps1 at some future period1 the     
,portuguese will generally adopt4  ,this
 would greatly facilitate the union of  
the two countries1 hitherto  kept       
asunder by the natural waywardness of   
mankind4    ,i had not been seated long 
before the blazing pile1 when a fellow1 
mounted on a fine spirited horse1 dashed

 from the stables through the  passage  
into the kitchen1 where he commenced    
displaying his horsemanship1  by causing
 the animal to wheel about with the     
velocity of a mill-stone1  to the great 
danger of everybody in the apartment4   
,he then galloped out  upon the plain1  
and after half an hour's absence        
returned1 and having  placed his horse  
once more in the stable1 came and seated
 himself next to  me1 to whom he        
commenced talking in a gibberish of     
which ,i understood  very little1 but   
which he intended for ,french4  ,he was 
half intoxicated1  and soon became three
 parts so1 by swallowing glass after    
glass of  aguardiente4  ,finding that ,i
 made him no answer1 he directed his    
discourse to one of the contrabandistas1
 to whom he talked in bad  ,spanish4    
,the latter either did not or would not 
understand him2 but at  last1 losing    
patience1 called him a drunkard1 and    
told him to hold his  tongue4  ,the     
fellow1 enraged at this contempt1 flung 

the glass out of  which he was drinking 
at the ,spaniard's head1 who sprang up  
like a tiger1  and unsheathing instantly
 a 8snick and snee0 knife1 made an      
upward cut at  the fellow's cheek1 and  
would have infallibly laid it open1 had 
,i not  pulled his arm down just in time
 to prevent worse effects than a scratch
  above the lower jaw-bone1 which1      
however1 drew blood4    ,the smuggler's 
companions interfered1 and with much    
difficulty led him  off to a small      
apartment in the rear of the house1     
where they slept1 and  kept the         
furniture of their mules4  ,the drunkard
 then commenced singing1  or rather     
yelling1 the ,marseillois hymn2 and     
after having annoyed every  one for     
nearly an hour1 was persuaded to mount  
his horse and depart1  accompanied by   
one of his neighbours4  ,he was a pig   
merchant of the  vicinity1 but had      
formerly been a trooper in the army of  
,napoleon1 where1  ,i suppose1 like the 
drunken coachman of ,evora1 he had      

picked up his  ,french and his habits of
 intoxication4 #ij    ,from ,estremoz to
 ,elvas the distance is six leagues4  ,i
 started at nine  next morning2 the     
first part of the way lay through an    
inclosed country1  but we soon emerged  
upon wild bleak downs1 over which the   
wind1 which  still pursued us1 howled   
most mournfully4  ,we met no one on the 
route2  and the scene was desolate in   
the extreme2 the heaven was of a dark   
grey1  through which no glimpse of the  
sun was to be perceived4  ,before us1 at
 a  great distance1 on an elevated      
ground1 rose a tower--the only object   
which  broke the monotony of the waste4 
,in about two hours from the time when  
we first discovered it1 we reached a    
fountain1 at the foot of the hill on    
which it stood2 the water1 which gushed 
into a long stone trough1 was           
beautifully clear and transparent1 and  
we stopped here to water the  animals4  
,having dismounted1 ,i left the guide1  
and proceeded to ascend the hill on     

which the tower stood4  ,though the     
ascent was very gentle1 ,i did not      
accomplish it without difficulty2 the   
ground was covered with sharp  stones1  
which1 in two or three instances1 cut   
through my boots and  wounded my feet2  
and the distance was much greater than  
,i had expected4  ,i at last arrived at 
the ruin1 for such it was4  ,i found it 
had been one  of those watch-towers or  
small fortresses called in ,portuguese  
atalaias2 it was square1 and surrounded 
by a wall1 broken down in many  places4 
,the tower itself had no door1 the lower
 part being of solid  stonework2 but on 
one side were crevices at intervals     
between the stones1  for the purpose of 
placing the feet1 and up this rude      
staircase ,i climbed  to a small        
apartment1 about five feet square1 from 
which the top had  fallen4  ,it         
commanded an extensive view from all    
sides1 and had evidently  been built for
 the accommodation of those whose       
business it was to keep  watch on the   

frontier1 and at the appearance of an   
enemy to alarm the  country by          
signals--probably by a fire4  ,resolute 
men might have defended  themselves in  
this little fastness against many       
assailants1 who must have  been         
completely exposed to their arrows or   
musketry in the ascent4    ,being about 
to leave the place1 ,i heard a strange  
cry behind a part of  the wall which ,i 
had not visited1 and hastening thither1 
,i found a  miserable object in rags1   
seated upon a stone4  ,it was a         
maniac--a man  about thirty years of    
age1 and ,i believe deaf and dumb2 there
 he sat1  gibbering and mowing1 and     
distorting his wild features into       
various  dreadful appearances4  ,there  
wanted nothing but this object to render
 the  scene complete2 banditti amongst  
such melancholy desolation would have   
been by no means so much in keeping4    
,but the maniac1 on his stone1 in  the  
rear of the wind-beaten ruin1           
overlooking the blasted heath1 above    

which scowled the leaden heaven1        
presented such a picture of gloom and   
misery as ,i believe neither painter nor
 poet ever conceived in the  saddest of 
their musings4  ,this is not the first  
instance in which it has  been my lot to
 verify the wisdom of the saying1 that  
truth is sometimes  wilder than fiction4
    ,i remounted my mule1 and proceeded 
till1 on the top of another hill1 my    
guide suddenly exclaimed1 8,there is    
,elvas60  ,i looked in the direction in 
which he pointed1 and beheld a town     
perched on the top of a lofty hill4  ,on
 the other side of a deep valley towards
 the left rose another hill1  much      
higher1 on the top of which is the      
celebrated fort of ,elvas1  believed to 
be the strongest place in ,portugal4    
,through the opening  between the fort  
and the town1 but in the background and 
far in ,spain1 ,i  discerned the misty  
sides and cloudy head of a stately      
mountain1 which ,i  afterwards learned  
was ,albuquerque1 one of the loftiest of

 ,estremadura4    ,we now got into a    
cultivated country1 and following the   
road1 which wound  amongst hedgerows1 we
 arrived at a place where the ground    
began gradually  to shelve down4  ,here1
 on the right1 was the commencement of  
an aqueduct1  by means of which the town
 on the opposite hill was supplied2 it  
was at  this point scarcely two feet in 
altitude1 but1 as we descended1 it      
became  higher and higher1 and its      
proportions more colossal4    ,near the 
bottom of the valley it took a turn to  
the left1 bestriding the  road with one 
of its arches4  ,i looked up1 after     
passing under it2 the  water must have  
been flowing near a hundred feet above  
my head1 and ,i was  filled with wonder 
at the immensity of the structure which 
conveyed it4  ,there was1 however1 one  
feature which was no slight drawback to 
its  pretensions to grandeur and        
magnificence3 the water was supported   
not by  gigantic single arches1 like    
those of the aqueduct of ,lisbon1 which 

stalk  over the valley like legs of     
,titans1 but by three layers of arches1 
which1 like three distinct aqueducts1   
rise above each other4  ,the expense    
and labour necessary for the erection of
 such a structure must have been        
enormous2 and when we reflect with what 
comparative ease modern art would       
confer the same advantage1 we cannot    
help congratulating ourselves that  we  
live in times when it is not necessary  
to exhaust the wealth of a  province to 
supply a town on a hill with one of the 
first necessaries of  existence4        
,,chapter ,,viii4                       
,elvas--,extraordinary ,longevity--,the 
,english ,nation--,portuguese           
,ingratitude--,illiberality--,fortificat
ions--,spanish ,beggar--,badajoz--,the  
,custom-,house4    ,arrived at the gate 
of ,elvas1 an officer came out of a kind
 of  guard-house1 and1 having asked me  
some questions1 despatched a soldier    
with me to the police-office1 that my   
passport might be vis1 as upon  the     

frontier they are much more particular  
with respect to passports than  in other
 parts4  ,this matter having been       
settled1 ,i entered an hostelry  near   
the same gate1 which had been           
recommended to me by my host at ,vendas 
,novas1 and which was kept by a person  
of the name of ,joz ,rosado4  ,it was   
the best in the town1 though1 for       
convenience and accommodation1 inferior 
to a hedge alehouse in ,england4  ,the  
cold still pursued me1 and ,i was  glad 
to take refuge in an inner kitchen1     
which1 when the door was not  open1 was 
only lighted by a fire burning somewhat 
dimly on the hearth4  ,an elderly female
 sat beside it in her chair1 telling her
 beads3 there  was something singular   
and extraordinary in her look1 as well  
as ,i could  discern by the imperfect   
light of the apartment4  ,i put a few   
unimportant  questions to her1 to which 
she replied1 but seemed to be afflicted 
to a  slight degree with deafness4  ,her
 hair was becoming grey1 and ,i said    

that  ,i believed she was older than    
myself1 but that ,i was confident she   
had  less snow on her head4    8,how old
 may you be1 cavalier80 said she1 giving
 me that title which in  ,spain is      
generally used when an extraordinary    
degree of respect is wished  to be      
exhibited4  ,i answered that ,i was near
 thirty4  8,then10 said she1  8you were 
right in supposing that ,i am older than
 yourself2 ,i am older  than your       
mother1 or your mother's mother3 it is  
more than a hundred  years since ,i was 
a girl1 and sported with the daughters  
of the town on  the hillside40  8,in    
that case10 said ,i1 8you doubtless     
remember the  earthquake40  8,yes10 she 
replied1 8if there is any occurrence in 
my life  that ,i remember1 it is that3  
,i was in the church of ,elvas at the   
moment1  hearing the ,mass of the king1 
and the priest fell on the ground1 and  
let  fall the ,host from his hands4  ,i 
shall never forget how the earth shook2 
it made us all sick2 and the houses and 

walls reeled like drunkards4  ,since    
that happened ,i have seen fourscore    
years pass by me1 yet ,i was  older then
 than you are now40    ,i looked with   
wonder at this surprising female1 and   
could scarcely  believe her words4  ,i  
was1 however1 assured that she was in   
fact upwards  of a hundred and ten years
 of age1 and was considered the oldest  
person  in ,portugal4  ,she still       
retained the use of her faculties in as 
full a  degree as the generality of     
people who have scarcely attained the   
half of  her age4  ,she was related to  
the people of the house4    ,as the     
night advanced1 several persons entered 
for the purpose of  enjoying the comfort
 of the fire1 and for the sake of       
conversation1 for  the house was a kind 
of news-room1 where the principal       
speaker was the  host1 a man of some    
shrewdness and experience1 who had      
served as a  soldier in the ,british    
army4  ,amongst others was the officer  
who  commanded at the gate4  ,after a   

few observations1 this gentleman1 who   
was  a good-looking young man of five   
and twenty1 began to burst forth in     
violent declamation against the ,english
 nation and government1 who1 he  said1  
had at all times proved themselves      
selfish and deceitful1 but that  their  
present conduct in respect to ,spain was
 particularly infamous1 for  though it  
was in their power to put an end to the 
war at once1 by sending  a large army   
thither1 they preferred sending a       
handful of troops1 in  order that the   
war might be prolonged1 for no other    
reason than that it  was of advantage to
 them4  ,having paid him an ironical    
compliment for his  politeness and      
urbanity1 ,i asked whether he reckoned  
amongst the selfish  actions of the     
,english government and nation1 their   
having expended  hundreds of millions of
 pounds sterling1 and an ocean of       
precious blood1  in fighting the battles
 of ,spain and ,portugal against        
,napoleon4  8,surely10 said ,i1 8the    

fort of ,elvas above our heads1 and     
still more the  castle of ,badajoz #if  
over the water1 speak volumes respecting
 ,english  selfishness1 and must1 every 
time you view them1 confirm you in the  
opinion which you have just expressed4  
,and then1 with respect to the  present 
combat in ,spain1 the gratitude which   
that country evinced to  ,england after 
the ,french1 by means of ,english       
armies1 had been  expelled1--gratitude  
evinced by discouraging the trade of    
,england on all  occasions1 and by      
offering up masses in thanksgiving when 
the ,english  heretics quitted the      
,spanish shores1 ought now to induce    
,england to  exhaust and ruin herself1  
for the sake of hunting ,don ,carlos out
 of his  mountains4  ,in deference to   
your superior judgment10 continued ,i to
 the  officer1 8,i will endeavour to    
believe that it would be for the        
advantage  of ,england were the war     
prolonged for an indefinite period2     
nevertheless1  you would do me a        

particular favour by explaining by what 
process in  chemistry blood shed in     
,spain will find its way into the       
,english treasury  in the shape of      
gold40    ,as he was not ready with his 
answer1 ,i took up a plate of fruit     
which  stood on the table beside me1 and
 said1 8,what do you call these fruits80
  8,pomegranates and bolotas10 he       
replied4  8,right10 said ,i1 8a homebred
  ,englishman could not have given me   
that answer2 yet he is as much          
acquainted with pomegranates and bolotas
 as your lordship is with the  line of  
conduct which it is incumbent upon      
,england to pursue in her  foreign and  
domestic policy40    ,this answer of    
mine1 ,i confess1 was not that of a     
,christian1 and proved  to me how much  
of the leaven of the ancient man still  
pervaded me2 yet ,i  must be permitted  
to add that ,i believe no other         
provocation would have  elicited from me
 a reply so full of angry feeling3 but  
,i could not  command myself when ,i    

heard my own glorious land traduced in  
this  unmerited manner4  ,by whom8  ,a  
,portuguese6  ,a native of a country    
which  has been twice liberated from    
horrid and detestable thraldom by the   
hands  of ,englishmen4  ,but for        
,wellington and his heroes1 ,portugal   
would have  been ,french at this day2   
but for ,napier and his marines1 ,miguel
 would now  be lording it in ,lisbon4   
,to return1 however1 to the officer3    
every one  laughed at him1 and he       
presently went away4    ,the next day ,i
 became acquainted with a respectable   
tradesman1 of the  name of ,almeida1 a  
man of talent1 though rather rough in   
his manners4  ,he  expressed great      
abhorrence of the papal system1 which   
had so long spread  a darkness1 like    
that of death1 over his unfortunate     
country2 and ,i had  no sooner informed 
him that ,i had brought with me a       
certain quantity of  ,testaments1 which 
it was my intention to leave for sale at
 ,elvas1 than he  expressed a great     

desire to undertake the charge1 and said
 that he would  do the utmost in his    
power to procure a sale for them amongst
 his  numerous customers4  ,upon showing
 him a copy1 ,i remarked1 8,your name is
  upon the title-page20 the ,portuguese 
version of the ,holy ,scriptures1 #ih   
circulated by the ,bible ,society1      
having been executed by a ,protestant1  
of  the name of ,almeida1 and first     
published in the year #agab2 whereupon  
he  smiled1 and observed that he        
esteemed it an honour to be connected in
  name at least with such a man4  ,he   
scoffed at the idea of receiving any    
remuneration1 and assured me that the   
feeling of being permitted to           
co-operate in so holy and useful a cause
 as the circulation of the  ,scriptures 
was quite a sufficient reward4    ,after
 having accomplished this matter1 ,i    
proceeded to survey the environs  of the
 place1 and strolled up the hill to the 
fort on the north side of  the town4    
,the lower part of the hill is planted  

with azinheiras1 which  give it a       
picturesque appearance1 and at the      
bottom is a small brook1  which ,i      
crossed by means of stepping-stones4    
,arrived at the gate of the  fort1 ,i   
was stopped by the sentry1 who1 however1
 civilly told me that if  ,i sent in my 
name to the commanding officer1 he would
 make no objection  to my visiting the  
interior4  ,i accordingly sent in my    
card by a soldier  who was lounging     
about1 and1 sitting down on a stone1    
waited his return4  ,he presently       
appeared1 and inquired whether ,i was an
 ,englishman2 to which  having replied  
in the affirmative1 he said1 8,in that  
case1 sir1 you  cannot enter2 indeed1 it
 is not the custom to permit any        
foreigners to  visit the fort40  ,i     
answered that it was perfectly          
indifferent to me  whether ,i visited it
 or not2 and1 having taken a survey of  
,badajoz from  the eastern side of the  
hill1 descended by the way ,i came4     
,this is one of the beneficial results  

of protecting a nation1 and  squandering
 blood and treasure in its defence4     
,the ,english1 who have  never been at  
war with ,portugal1 who have fought for 
its independence on  land and sea1 and  
always with success1 who have forced    
themselves1 by a  treaty of commerce1   
#ii to drink its coarse and filthy      
wines1 which no  other nation cares to  
taste1 are the most unpopular people who
 visit  ,portugal4  ,the ,french have   
ravaged the country with fire and sword1
 and  shed the blood of its sons like   
water2 the ,french buy not its fruits1  
and  loathe its wines1 yet there is no  
bad spirit in ,portugal towards the     
,french4  ,the reason of this is no     
mystery2 it is the nature not of the    
,portuguese only1 but of corrupt and    
unregenerate man1 to dislike his        
benefactors1 who1 by conferring benefits
 upon him1 mortify in the most  generous
 manner his miserable vanity4    ,there 
is no country in which the ,english are 
so popular as in ,france2  #ajj but1    

though the ,french have been frequently 
roughly handled by the  ,english1 and   
have seen their capital occupied by an  
,english army1 they  have never been    
subjected to the supposed ignominy of   
receiving  assistance from them4    ,the
 fortifications of ,elvas are models of 
their kind1 and1 at the first  view1 it 
would seem that the town1 if well       
garrisoned1 might bid defiance  to any  
hostile power2 but it has its weak      
point3 the western side is  commanded by
 a hill1 at the distance of half a mile1
 from which an  experienced general     
would cannonade it1 and probably with   
success4  ,it is  the last town in this 
part of ,portugal1 the distance to the  
,spanish  frontier being barely two     
leagues4  ,it was evidently built as a  
rival to  ,badajoz1 upon which it looks 
down from its height across a sandy     
plain  and over the sullen waters of the
 ,guadiana2 but1 though a strong town1  
it  can scarcely be called a defence to 
the frontier1 which is open on all      

sides1 so that there would not be the   
slightest necessity for an invading     
army to approach within a dozen leagues 
of its walls1 should it be  disposed to 
avoid them4  ,its fortifications are so 
extensive that ten  thousand men at     
least would be required to man them1    
who1 in the event of  an invasion1 might
 be far better employed in meeting the  
enemy in the  open field4  ,the ,french1
 during their occupation of ,portugal1  
kept a  small force in this place1 who1 
at the approach of the ,british1        
retreated  to the fort1 where they      
shortly after capitulated4    ,having   
nothing farther to detain me at ,elvas1 
,i proceeded to cross the  frontier into
 ,spain4  ,my idiot guide was on his way
 back to ,aldea  ,gallega2 and1 on the  
fifth of ,january1 ,i mounted a sorry   
mule1 without  bridle or stirrups1 which
 ,i guided by a species of halter1 and  
followed  by a lad who was to attend me 
on another1 ,i spurred down the hill of 
,elvas to the plain1 eager to arrive in 

old chivalrous1 romantic ,spain4  ,but  
,i soon found that ,i had no need to    
quicken the beast which bore me1  for1  
though covered with sores1 wall-eyed1   
and with a kind of halt in its  gait1 it
 cantered along like the wind4    ,in   
little more than half an hour we arrived
 at a brook1 whose waters ran           
vigorously between steep banks4  ,a man 
who was standing on the side  directed  
me to the ford in the squeaking dialect 
of ,portugal2 but whilst  ,i was yet    
splashing through the water1 a voice    
from the other bank hailed  me1 in the  
magnificent language of ,spain1 in this 
guise3 8,o6 ,seor  ,caballero1 que me d 
usted una limosna por amor de ,dios1 una
  limosnita para que yo me compre un    
traguillo de vino tinto40 #ajb;a  ,in a 
moment ,i was on ,spanish ground1 as the
 brook1 which is called ,acaia1  is the 
boundary here of the two kingdoms1 and1 
having flung the beggar a  small piece  
of silver1 ,i cried in ecstasy1         
8,santiago y cierra ,espaa60  #ajb;b and

 scoured on my way with more speed than 
before1 paying1 as ,gil  ,blas says1    
little heed to the torrent of blessings 
which the mendicant  poured forth in my 
rear3 #ajb;c yet never was charity more 
unwisely  bestowed1 for ,i was          
subsequently informed that the fellow   
was a confirmed  drunkard1 who took his 
station every morning at the ford1 where
 he  remained the whole day for the     
purpose of extorting money from the     
passengers1 which he regularly spent    
every night in the wine-shops of        
,badajoz4  ,to those who gave him money 
he returned blessings1 and to those  who
 refused1 curses2 being equally skilled 
and fluent in the use of  either4       
,badajoz was now in view1 at the        
distance of little more than half a     
league4  ,we soon took a turn to the    
left1 towards a bridge of many arches   
across the ,guadiana1 which1 though so  
famed in song and ballad1 is a very     
unpicturesque stream1 shallow and       
sluggish1 though tolerably wide2 its    

banks were white with linen which the   
washerwomen had spread out to dry  in   
the sun1 which was shining brightly2 ,i 
heard their singing at a great          
distance1 and the theme seemed to be the
 praises of the river where they  were  
toiling1 for as ,i approached ,i could  
distinguish 8,guadiana1  ,guadiana10    
which reverberated far and wide1        
pronounced by the clear and  strong     
voices in chorus of many a dark-cheeked 
maid and matron4  ,i  thought there was 
some analogy between their employment   
and my own3 ,i was  about to tan my     
northern complexion by exposing myself  
to the hot sun of  ,spain1 in the humble
 hope of being able to cleanse some of  
the foul  stains of ,popery from the    
minds of its children1 with whom ,i had 
little  acquaintance2 whilst they were  
bronzing themselves on the banks of the 
river in order to make white the        
garments of strangers4  ,the words of an
  ,eastern poet returned forcibly to my 
mind--        8,i'll weary myself each  

night and each day1         ,to aid my  
unfortunate brothers2      ,as the      
laundress tans her own face in the ray1 
,to cleanse the garments of others40    
,having crossed the bridge1 #ajc;a we   
arrived at the northern gate1 when  out 
rushed from a species of sentry-box a   
fellow wearing on his head a            
high-peaked ,andalusian hat1 with his   
figure wrapped up in one of these       
immense cloaks #ajc;b so well known to  
those who have travelled in ,spain1  and
 which none but a ,spaniard can wear in 
a becoming manner4  ,without  saying a  
word1 he laid hold of the halter of the 
mule1 and began to lead  it through the 
gate up a dirty street1 crowded with    
long-cloaked people  like himself4  ,i  
asked him what he meant1 but he deigned 
not to return an  answer2 the boy1      
however1 who waited upon me1 said that  
it was one of the  gate-keepers1 and    
that he was conducting us to the        
custom-house or  ,alfandega1 where the  
baggage would be examined4  ,having     

arrived there1  the fellow1 who still   
maintained a dogged silence1 began to   
pull the  trunks off the sumpter-mule1  
and commenced uncording them4  ,i was   
about  to give him a severe reproof for 
his brutality2 but before ,i could open 
my mouth a stout elderly personage      
appeared at the door1 who ,i soon found 
was the principal officer4  ,he looked  
at me for a moment1 and then asked  me1 
in the ,english language1 if ,i was an  
,englishman4  ,on my replying in  the   
affirmative1 he demanded of the fellow  
how he dared to have the  insolence to  
touch the baggage without orders1 and   
sternly bade him cord  up the trunks    
again and place them on the mule1 which 
he performed  without uttering a word4  
,the gentleman then asked what the      
trunks  contained3 ,i answered clothes  
and linen2 when he begged pardon for the
  insolence of the subordinate1 and     
informed me that ,i was at liberty to   
proceed where ,i thought proper4  ,i    
thanked him for his exceeding           

politeness2 and1 under guidance of the  
boy1 made the best of my way to  the    
,inn of the ,three ,nations1 #ajd to    
which ,i had been recommended at        
,elvas4          ,,chapter ,,ix4        
,badajoz--,antonio the                  
,gypsy--,antonio's ,proposal--,the      
,proposal accepted--,gypsy              
,breakfast--,departure from             
,badajoz--,the ,gypsy                   
,donkey--,merida--,the ,ruined          
,wall--,the ,crone--,the ,land of the   
,moor--,the ,black ,men--,life in the   
,desert--,the  ,supper4    ,i was now at
 ,badajoz in ,spain1 a country which for
 the next four years  was destined to be
 the scene of my labours3 but ,i will   
not anticipate4  ,the neighbourhood of  
,badajoz did not prepossess me much in  
favour of the  country which ,i had just
 entered4  ,it consists chiefly of brown
 moors1  which bear little but a species
 of brushwood1 called in ,spanish       
carrasco2 blue mountains are1 however1  
seen towering up in the far  distance1  

which relieve the scene from the        
monotony which would otherwise  pervade 
it4    ,it was at this town of ,badajoz1
 the capital of ,estremadura1 that ,i   
first  fell in with those singular      
people1 the ,zincali1 ,gitanos1 or      
,spanish  gypsies4  ,it was here ,i met 
with the wild ,paco1 #aje;a the man with
 the  withered arm1 who wielded the     
cachas #aje;b with his left hand2 his   
shrewd wife1 ,antonia1 skilled in       
hokkano baro1 or the great trick        
#ajf;a2 the fierce gypsy1 ,antonio      
,lopez1 their father-in-law2 and many   
other almost equally singular           
individuals of the ,errate1 or gypsy    
blood4  ,it was here that ,i first      
preached the gospel to the gypsy people1
  and commenced that translation of the 
,new ,testament in the ,spanish gypsy   
tongue1 a portion of which ,i           
subsequently printed at ,madrid4        
,after a stay of three weeks at         
,badajoz1 ,i prepared to depart for     
,madrid3  late one afternoon1 as ,i was 

arranging my scanty baggage1 the gypsy  
,antonio entered my apartment1 dressed  
in his zamarra and high-peaked          
,andalusian hat4    ,antonio4--,good    
evening1 brother2 they tell me that on  
the callicaste  you intend to set out   
for ,madrilati4    ,myself4--,such is my
 intention2 ,i can stay here no longer4 
,antonio4--,the way is far to           
,madrilati1 there are1 moreover1 wars in
  the land1 and many chories walk about2
 are you not afraid to journey8         
,myself4--,i have no fears2 every man   
must accomplish his destiny3 what       
befalls my body or soul was written in a
 gabicote a thousand years  before the  
foundation of the world4                
,antonio4--,i have no fears myself1     
brother2 the dark night is the same to  
me as the fair day1 and the wild        
carrascal as the market-place or the    
chard2 ,i have got the bar lach in my   
bosom1 the precious stone to  which     
sticks the needle4 #ajf;b               
,myself4--,you mean the loadstone1 ,i   

suppose4  ,do you believe that a        
lifeless stone can preserve you from the
 dangers which occasionally  threaten   
your life8    ,antonio4--,brother1 ,i am
 fifty years old1 and you see me        
standing before  you in life and        
strength2 how could that be unless the  
bar lach had  power8  ,i have been      
soldier and contrabandista1 and ,i have 
likewise  slain and robbed the ,busn4   
,the bullets of the ,gabin and of the   
jara canallis have hissed about my ears 
without injuring me1 for ,i  carried the
 bar lach4  ,i have twenty times done   
that which by ,busn  law should have    
brought me to the filimicha1 yet my neck
 has never yet  been squeezed by the    
cold garrote4  ,brother1 ,i trust in the
 bar  lach1 like the ,calor of old3 were
 ,i in the midst of the gulph of        
,bombard without a plank to float upon1 
,i should feel no fear2 for if ,i       
carried the precious stone1 it would    
bring me safe to shore4  ,the bar  lach 
has power1 brother4    ,myself4--,i     

shall not dispute the matter with you1  
more especially as ,i  am about to      
depart from ,badajoz3 ,i must speedily  
bid you farewell1 and we  shall see each
 other no more4    ,antonio4--,brother1 
do you know what brings me hither8      
,myself4--,i cannot tell1 unless it be  
to wish me a happy journey3 ,i am  not  
gypsy enough to interpret the thoughts  
of other people4    ,antonio4--,all last
 night ,i lay awake1 thinking of the    
affairs of ,egypt2  and when ,i arose in
 the morning ,i took the bar lach from  
my bosom1 and  scraping it with a knife1
 swallowed some of the dust in          
aguardiente1 as  ,i am in the habit of  
doing when ,i have made up my mind2 and 
,i said to  myself1 ,i am wanted on the 
frontiers of ,castumba on a certain     
matter4  ,the strange ,calor is about to
 proceed to ,madrilati2 the journey is  
long1 and he may fall into evil hands1  
peradventure into those of his own      
blood2 for let me tell you1 brother1 the
 ,cals are leaving their towns  and     

villages1 and forming themselves into   
troops to plunder the ,busn1  for there 
is now but little law in the land1 and  
now or never is the time  for the ,calor
 to become once more what they were in  
former times4  ,so  ,i said1 the strange
 ,calor may fall into the hands of his  
own blood and  be ill-treated by them1  
which were shame3 ,i will therefore go  
with him  through the ,chim del ,manr as
 far as the frontiers of ,castumba1 and 
upon the frontiers of ,castumba ,i will 
leave the ,london ,calor to find  his   
own way to ,madrilati1 for there is less
 danger in ,castumba than  in the ,chim 
del ,manr1 and ,i will then betake me to
 the affairs of  ,egypt which call me   
from hence4    ,myself4--,this is a very
 hopeful plan of yours1 my friend2 and  
in what  manner do you propose that we  
shall travel8    ,antonio4--,i will tell
 you1 brother4  ,i have a gras in the   
stall1 even  the one which ,i purchased 
at ,olivenas1 as ,i told you on a former
  occasion2 #ajh it is good and fleet1  

and cost me1 who am a gypsy1 fifty      
chul2 upon that gras you shall ride4    
,as for myself1 ,i will journey  upon   
the macho4    ,myself4--,before ,i      
answer you1 ,i shall wish you to inform 
me what  business it is which renders   
your presence necessary in ,castumba2   
your  son-in-law1 ,paco1 told me that it
 was no longer the custom of the gypsies
  to wander4    ,antonio4--,it is an    
affair of ,egypt1 brother1 and ,i shall 
not acquaint  you with it2 peradventure 
it relates to a horse or an ass1 or     
peradventure it relates to a mule or a  
macho2 it does not relate to  yourself1 
therefore ,i advise you not to inquire  
about it--,dosta4  ,with  respect to my 
offer1 you are free to decline it2 there
 is a drungruje  between here and       
,madrilati1 and you can travel it in the
 birdoche1 or  with the dromlis2 but ,i 
tell you1 as a brother1 that there are  
chories upon the drun1 and some of them 
are of the ,errate4    ,certainly few   
people in my situation would have       

accepted the offer of  this singular    
gypsy4  ,it was not1 however1 without   
its allurements for  me2 ,i was fond of 
adventure1 and what more ready means of 
gratifying my  love of it than by       
putting myself under the hands of such a
 guide8  ,there  are many who would have
 been afraid of treachery1 but ,i had no
 fears on  this point1 as ,i did not    
believe that the fellow harboured the   
slightest  ill intention towards me2 ,i 
saw that he was fully convinced that ,i 
was  one of the ,errate1 and his        
affection for his own race1 and his     
hatred  for the ,busn1 were his         
strongest characteristics4  ,i wished1  
moreover1  to lay hold of every         
opportunity of making myself acquainted 
with the  ways of the ,spanish gypsies1 
and an excellent one here presented     
itself  on my first entrance into       
,spain4  ,in a word1 ,i determined to   
accompany  the gypsy4  8,i will go with 
you10 ,i exclaimed2 8as for my baggage1 
,i will  despatch it to ,madrid by the  

birdoche40  8,do so1 brother10 he       
replied1  8and the gras will go lighter4
  ,baggage1 indeed6--what need of       
baggage  have you8  ,how the ,busn on   
the road would laugh if they saw two    
,cals with baggage behind them60        
,during my stay at ,badajoz ,i had but  
little intercourse with the  ,spaniards1
 my time being chiefly devoted to the   
gypsies1 with whom1 from  long          
intercourse with various sections of    
their race in different parts  of the   
world1 ,i felt myself much more at home 
than with the silent1  reserved men of  
,spain1 with whom a foreigner might     
mingle for half a  century without      
having half a dozen words addressed to  
him1 unless he  himself made the first  
advances to intimacy1 which1 after all1 
might be  rejected with a shrug and a no
 entiendo2 #aaj for among the many      
deeply-rooted prejudices of these people
 is the strange idea that no  foreigner 
can speak their language1 an idea to    
which they will still  cling though they

 hear him conversing with perfect ease2 
for in that case  the utmost that they  
will concede to his attainments is1     
,habla quatro  palabras y nada mas 7he  
can speak four words1 and no more74     
,early one morning1 before sunrise1 ,i  
found myself at the house of  ,antonio2 
it was a small mean building1 situated  
in a dirty street4  ,the  morning was   
quite dark2 the street1 however1 was    
partially illumined by a  heap of       
lighted straw1 round which two or three 
men were busily engaged1  apparently    
holding an object over the flames4      
,presently the gypsy's door  opened1 and
 ,antonio made his appearance2 and1     
casting his eye in the  direction of the
 light1 exclaimed1 8,the swine have     
killed their brother2  would that every 
,busn was served as yonder hog is4      
,come in1 brother1  and we will eat the 
heart of that hog40  ,i scarcely        
understood his words1  but following    
him1 he led me into a low room1 in which
 was a brasero1  or small pan full of   

lighted charcoal2 beside it was a rude  
table1 spread  with a coarse linen      
cloth1 upon which was bread and a large 
pipkin full  of a mess which emitted no 
disagreeable savour4  8,the heart of the
  balich is in that puchera10 said      
,antonio2 8eat1 brother40  ,we both  sat
 down and ate--,antonio voraciously4    
,when we had concluded he               
arose3--8,have you got your li80 he     
demanded4  8,here it is10 said ,i1      
showing him my passport4  8,good10 said 
he2 8you may want it4  ,i want  none2 my
 passport is the bar lach4  ,now for a  
glass of repai1 and  then for the road40
    ,we left the room1 the door of which
 he locked1 hiding the key beneath a    
loose brick in a corner of the passage4 
8,go into the street1 brother1  whilst  
,i fetch the caballerias from the       
stable40  ,i obeyed him4  ,the  sun had 
not yet risen1 and the air was          
piercingly cold2 the grey light1        
however1 of dawn enabled me to          
distinguish objects with tolerable      

accuracy2 ,i soon heard the clattering  
of the animals' feet1 and ,antonio      
presently stepped forth1 leading the    
horse by the bridle2 the macho  followed
 behind4  ,i looked at the horse1 and   
shrugged my shoulders4  ,as  far as ,i  
could scan it1 it appeared the most     
uncouth animal ,i had ever  beheld4  ,it
 was of a spectral white1 short in the  
body1 but with  remarkably long legs4   
,i observed that it was particularly    
high in the  cruz1 or withers4  8,you   
are looking at the grasti10 said        
,antonio2 8it  is eighteen years old1   
but it is the very best in the ,chim del
 ,manr2 ,i  have long had my eye upon   
it2 ,i bought it for my own use for the 
affairs  of ,egypt4  ,mount1 brother1   
mount1 and let us leave the foros--the  
gate  is about being opened40    ,he    
locked the door1 and deposited the key  
in his faja4  ,in less than a  quarter  
of an hour we had left the town behind  
us4  8,this does not appear  to be a    
very good horse10 said ,i to ,antonio1  

as we proceeded over the  plain2 8it is 
with difficulty that ,i can make him    
move40    8,he is the swiftest horse in 
the ,chim del ,manr1 brother10 said     
,antonio2 8at the gallop1 and at the    
speedy trot1 there is no one to match   
him4  ,but he is eighteen years old1 and
 his joints are stiff1 especially  of a 
morning2 but let him once become heated1
 and the genio del viejo  #aab comes    
upon him1 and there is no holding him in
 with bit or bridle4  ,i bought that    
horse for the affairs of ,egypt1        
brother40    ,about noon we arrived at a
 small village in the neighbourhood of a
 high  lumpy hill4  8,there is no ,cal  
house in this place10 said ,antonio2 8we
  will therefore go to the posada of the
 ,busn and refresh ourselves1 man  and  
beast40  ,we entered the kitchen1 and   
sat down at the board1 calling  for wine
 and bread4  ,there were two ill-looking
 fellows in the kitchen1  smoking       
cigars4  ,i said something to ,antonio  
in the ,cal language4    8,what is that 

,i hear80 said one of the fellows1 who  
was distinguished by  an immense pair of
 moustaches4  8,what is that ,i hear8   
,is it in ,cal  that you are speaking   
before me1 and ,i a chalan and national8
  ,accursed  gypsy1 how dare you enter  
this posada and speak before me in that 
speech8  ,is it not forbidden by the law
 of the land in which we are1 even as it
 is  forbidden for a gypsy to enter the 
mercado8  ,i tell you what1 friend1  if 
,i hear another word of ,cal come from  
your mouth1 ,i will cudgel your  bones  
and send you flying over the house-tops 
with a kick of my foot40    8,you would 
do right10 said his companion2 8the     
insolence of these gypsies  is no longer
 to be borne4  ,when ,i am at ,merida or
 ,badajoz ,i go to the  mercado1 and    
there in a corner stand the accursed    
gypsies1 jabbering to  each other in a  
speech which ,i understand not4         
#8,gypsy gentleman1' say ,i  to one of  
them1 #8what will you have for that     
donkey8'  #8,i will have ten  dollars   

for it1 ,caballero nacional1' says the  
gypsy2 #8it is the best  donkey in all  
,spain4'  #8,i should like to see its   
paces1' say ,i4  #8,that  you shall1    
most valorous6' says the gypsy1 and     
jumping upon its back1 he  puts it to   
its paces1 first of all whispering      
something into its ear in  ,cal1 and    
truly the paces of the donkey are most  
wonderful1 such as ,i  have never seen  
before4  #8,i think it will just suit   
me2' and1 after  looking at it awhile1  
,i take out the money and pay for it4   
#8,i shall go  to my house1' says the   
gypsy2 and off he runs4  #8,i shall go  
to my  village1' say ,i1 and ,i mount   
the donkey4  #8,vamonos1' say ,i1 but   
the  donkey won't move4  ,i give him a  
switch1 but ,i don't get on the better  
for that4  #8,how is this8' say ,i1 and 
,i fall to spurring him4  ,what  happens
 then1 brother8  ,the wizard no sooner  
feels the prick than he  bucks down1 and
 flings me over his head into the mire4 
,i get up and look  about me2 there     

stands the donkey staring at me1 and    
there stand the  whole gypsy canaille   
squinting at me with their filmy eyes4  
#8,where is  the scamp who has sold me  
this piece of furniture8' ,i shout4     
#8,he is gone  to ,granada1 valorous1'  
says one4  #8,he is gone to see his     
kindred among  the ,moors1' says        
another4  #8,i just saw him running over
 the field1 in the  direction of ---1   
with the devil close behind him1' says a
 third4  ,in a  word ,i am tricked4  ,i 
wish to dispose of the donkey2 no one1  
however1  will buy him2 he is a ,cal    
donkey1 and every person avoids him4    
,at  last the gypsies offer thirty reals
 for him2 and after much chaffering  ,i 
am glad to get rid of him at two        
dollars4  ,it is all a trick1 however2  
he returns to his master1 and the       
brotherhood share the spoil amongst     
them1 all which villany would be        
prevented1 in my opinion1 were the  ,cal
 language not spoken2 for what but the  
word of ,cal could have  induced the    

donkey to behave in such an             
unaccountable manner80    ,both seemed  
perfectly satisfied with the justness of
 this conclusion1 and  continued smoking
 till their cigars were burnt to stumps1
 when they  arose1 twitched their       
whiskers1 looked at us with fierce      
disdain1 and  dashing the tobacco-ends  
to the ground1 strode out of the        
apartment4    8,those people seem no    
friends to the gypsies10 said ,i to     
,antonio1 when  the two bullies had     
departed1 8nor to the ,cal language     
either40    8,may evil glanders seize   
their nostrils10 said ,antonio2 8they   
have been  jonjabadoed #aad;a by our    
people4  ,however1 brother1 you did     
wrong to  speak to me in ,cal1 in a     
posada like this2 it is a forbidden     
language2 for1 as ,i have often told    
you1 the king has destroyed the law  of 
the ,cals4 #aad;b  ,let us away1        
brother1 or those juntunes may set  the 
justicia upon us40    ,towards evening  
we drew near to a large town or village4

  8,that is  ,merida10 said ,antonio1   
8formerly1 as the ,busn say1 a mighty   
city of  the ,corahai4  ,we shall stay  
here to-night1 and perhaps for a day or 
two1 for ,i have some business of ,egypt
 to transact in this place4  ,now1      
brother1 step aside with the horse1 and 
wait for me beneath yonder wall4  ,i    
must go before and see in what condition
 matters stand40    ,i dismounted from  
the horse1 and sat down on a stone      
beneath the ruined  wall to which       
,antonio had motioned me4  ,the sun went
 down1 and the air  was exceedingly     
keen2 ,i drew close around me an old    
tattered gypsy cloak  with which my     
companion had provided me1 and1 being   
somewhat fatigued1  fell into a doze    
which lasted for nearly an hour4    8,is
 your worship the ,london ,calor80 said 
a strange voice close beside  me4    ,i 
started1 and beheld the face of a woman 
peering under my hat4  ,notwithstanding 
the dusk1 ,i could see that the features
 were hideously  ugly and almost black2 

they belonged1 in fact1 to a gypsy      
crone1 at least  seventy years of age1  
leaning upon a staff4    8,is your      
worship the ,london ,calor80 repeated   
she4    8,i am he whom you seek10 said  
,i2 8where is ,antonio80    8,curelando1
 curelando2 baribustres curels terela10 
#aae said the  crone4  8,come with me1  
,calor of my garlochin1 come with me to 
my  little ker2 he will be there anon40 
,i followed the crone1 who led the way  
into the town1 which was ruinous  and   
seemingly half deserted2 we went up the 
street1 from which she turned  into a   
narrow and dark lane1 and presently     
opened the gate of a large  dilapidated 
house4  8,come in10 said she4    8,and  
the gras80 ,i demanded4    8,bring the  
gras in too1 my chab1 bring the gras in 
too2 there is  room for the gras in my  
little stable40  ,we entered a large    
court1  across which we proceeded till  
we came to a wide doorway4  8,go in1 my 
child of ,egypt10 said the hag--8go in2 
that is my little stable40    8,the     

place is as dark as pitch10 said ,i1    
8and may be a well for what ,i  know3   
bring a light1 or ,i will not enter40   
8,give me the solabarri10 said the hag1 
8and ,i will lead your horse in1  my    
chab of ,egypt--yes1 and tether him to  
my little manger40  ,she led  the horse 
through the doorway1 and ,i heard her   
busy in the darkness2  presently the    
horse shook himself3 8,grasti           
terelamos10 #aaf said the  hag1 who now 
made her appearance with the bridle in  
her hand2 8the horse  has shaken        
himself1 he is not harmed by his day's  
journey2 now let us go  in1 my ,calor1  
into my little room40    ,we entered the
 house1 and found ourselves in a vast   
room1 which would  have been quite dark 
but for a faint glow which appeared at  
the farther  end3 it proceeded from a   
brasero1 beside which were squatted two 
dusky  figures4    8,these are          
,callees10 said the hag2 8one is my     
daughter1 and the other  is her chab4   
,sit down1 my ,london ,calor1 and let us

 hear you  speak40    ,i looked about   
for a chair1 but could see none2 at a   
short distance1  however1 ,i perceived  
the end of a broken pillar lying on the 
floor2 this  ,i rolled to the brasero1  
and sat down upon it4    8,this is a    
fine house1 mother of the gypsies10 said
 ,i to the hag1 willing  to gratify the 
desire she had expressed of hearing me  
speak2 8a fine  house is this of yours1 
rather cold and damp1 though2 it appears
 large  enough to be a barrack for      
hundunares40    8,plenty of houses in   
this foros1 plenty of houses in ,merida1
 my ,london  ,calor1 some of them just  
as they were left by the ,corahans4     
,ah6 a  fine people are the ,corahans2  
,i often wish myself in their chim once 
more40    8,how is this1 mother80 said  
,i2 8have you been in the land of the   
,moors80    8,twice have ,i been in     
their country1 my ,calor--twice have ,i 
been in the  land of the ,corahai4  ,the
 first time is more than fifty years    
ago2 ,i  was then with the ,ses1 for my 

husband was a soldier of the ,crallis   
of ,spain1 and ,oran at that time       
belonged to ,spain40    8,you were not  
then with the real ,moors10 said ,i1    
8but only with the  ,spaniards who      
occupied part of their country40    8,i 
have been with the real ,moors1 my      
,london ,calor4  ,who knows more of  the
 real ,moors than myself8  ,about forty 
years ago ,i was with my ro in  ,ceuta1 
for he was still a soldier of the king1 
and he said to me one day1  #8,i am     
tired of this place1 where there is no  
bread and less water2 ,i will  escape   
and turn ,corahan2 this night ,i will   
kill my sergeant1 and flee  to the camp 
of the ,moor4'  #8,do so1' said ,i1 #8my
 chab1 and as soon as  may be ,i will   
follow you and become a ,corahan4'      
,that same night he  killed his         
sergeant1 who five years before had     
called him ,cal and  cursed him2 then   
running to the wall he dropped from it1 
and1 amidst many  shots1 he escaped to  
the land of the ,corahai4  ,as for      

myself1 ,i  remained in the presidio of 
,ceuta as a suttler1 selling wine and   
repai to the soldiers4  ,two years      
passed by1 and ,i neither saw nor  heard
 from my ro4  ,one day there came a     
strange man to my cachimani2  he was    
dressed like a ,corahan1 and yet he did 
not look like one2 he  looked more like 
a callard1 and yet he was not a callard 
either1  though he was almost black2 and
 as ,i looked upon him1 ,i thought he   
looked  something like the ,errate2 and 
he said to me1 #8,zincali2 chachip6'    
and then he whispered to me in queer    
language1 which ,i could scarcely       
understand1 #8,your ro is waiting2 come 
with me1 my little sister1 and ,i  will 
take you unto him4'  #8,where is he8'   
said ,i1 and he pointed to the  west1 to
 the land of the ,corahai1 and said1    
#8,he is yonder away2 come  with me1    
little sister1 the ro is waiting4'  ,for
 a moment ,i was afraid1  but ,i        
bethought me of my husband1 and ,i      
wished to be amongst the  ,corahai2 so  

,i took the little parn ,i had1 and1    
locking up the  cachimani1 went with the
 strange man4  ,the sentinel challenged 
us at  the gate1 but ,i gave him repai1 
and he let us pass2 in a moment we  were
 in the land of the ,corahai4  ,about a 
league from the town1 beneath  a hill1  
we found four people1 men and women1 all
 very black like the  strange man1 and  
we joined ourselves with them1 and they 
all saluted me  and called me little    
sister4  ,that was all ,i understood of 
their  discourse1 which was very        
crabbed2 and they took away my dress1   
and gave  me other clothes1 and ,i      
looked like a ,corahan1 and away we     
marched for  many days amidst deserts   
and small villages1 and more than once  
it seemed  to me that ,i was amongst the
 ,errate1 for their ways were the same4 
,the  men would hokkawar with mules and 
asses1 and the women told baji1  #aah   
and after many days we came before a    
large town1 and the black man  said1    
#8,go in there1 little sister1 and there

 you will find your ro2'  and ,i went to
 the gate1 and an armed ,corahan stood  
within the gate1  and ,i looked in his  
face1 and lo6 it was my ro4    8,oh1    
what a strange town it was that ,i found
 myself in1 full of people  who had once
 been ,candor but had renegaded and     
become ,corahai6  ,there were ,ses and  
,lalor1 and men of other nations1 and   
amongst  them were some of the ,errate  
from my own country2 all were now       
soldiers  of the ,crallis of the        
,corahai1 and followed him to his wars2 
and in  that town ,i remained with my ro
 a long time1 occasionally going out    
with him to the wars1 and ,i often asked
 him about the black men who had        
brought me thither1 and he told me that 
he had had dealings with them1  and that
 he believed them to be of the ,errate4 
,well1 brother1 to be  short1 my ro was 
killed in the wars1 before a town to    
which the king of  the ,corahai laid    
siege1 and ,i became a piul1 and ,i     
returned to the  village of the         

renegades1 as it was called1 and        
supported myself as well  as ,i could2  
and one day1 as ,i was sitting weeping1 
the black man1 whom ,i  had never seen  
since the day he brought me to my ro1   
again stood before  me1 and he said1    
#8,come with me1 little sister1 come    
with me1 the ro is  at hand1' and ,i    
went with him1 and beyond the gate in   
the desert was the  same party of black 
men and women which ,i had seen before4 
#8,where is my  ro8' said ,i4  #8,here  
he is1 little sister1' said the black   
man1 #8here he  is2 from this day ,i am 
the ro and you the romi4  ,come1 let us 
go1 for  there is business to be done4' 
8,and ,i went with him1 and he was my   
ro1 and we lived amongst the  deserts1  
and hokkawar'd and choried and told     
baji2 and ,i said to  myself1 #8,this is
 good2 sure ,i am amongst the ,errate in
 a better chim  than my own4'  ,and ,i  
often said that they were of the        
,errate1 and then  they would laugh and 
say that it might be so1 and that they  

were not  ,corahai1 but they could give 
no account of themselves4    8,well1    
things went on in this way for years1   
and ,i had three chai by  the black man2
 two of them died1 but the youngest1 who
 is the ,call who  sits by the brasero1 
was spared4  ,so we roamed about and    
choried and  told baji2 and it came to  
pass that once in the winter time our   
company  attempted to pass a wide and   
deep river1 of which there are many in  
the  ,chim del ,corahai1 and the boat   
overset with the rapidity of the        
current1 and all our people were        
drowned1 all but myself and my chab1    
whom ,i bore in my bosom4  ,i had now no
 friends amongst the ,corahai1 and  ,i  
wandered about the despoblados howling  
and lamenting till ,i became  half lil1 
and in this manner ,i found my way to   
the coast1 where ,i made  friends with  
the captain of a ship1 and returned to  
this land of ,spain4  ,and now ,i am    
here1 ,i often wish myself back again   
amongst the ,corahai40    ,here she     

commenced laughing loud and long1 and   
when she had ceased1 her  daughter and  
grandchild took up the laugh1 which they
 continued so long  that ,i concluded   
they were all lunatics4    ,hour        
succeeded hour1 and still we sat        
crouching over the brasero1 from  which1
 by this time1 all warmth had departed2 
the glow had long since  disappeared1   
and only a few dying sparks were to be  
distinguished4  ,the  room or hall was  
now involved in utter darkness2 the     
women were  motionless and still2 ,i    
shivered and began to feel uneasy4      
8,will ,antonio  be here to-night80 at  
length ,i demanded4    8,no tenga usted 
cuidao1 #abj my ,london ,calor10 said   
the gypsy  mother1 in an unearthly tone2
 8,pepindorio has been here some time40 
,i was about to rise from my seat and   
attempt to escape from the house1  when 
,i felt a hand laid upon my shoulder1   
and in a moment ,i heard the  voice of  
,antonio4    8,be not afraid2 'tis ,i1  
brother4  ,we will have a light anon1   

and then  supper40    ,the supper was   
rude enough1 consisting of bread1       
cheese1 and olives2  ,antonio1 however1 
produced a leathern bottle of excellent 
wine4  ,we  despatched these viands by  
the light of an earthen lamp1 which was 
placed  upon the floor4    8,now10 said 
,antonio to the youngest female1 8bring 
me the pajand1 and  ,i will sing a      
gachapla40    ,the girl brought the     
guitar1 which1 with some difficulty1 the
 gypsy  tuned1 and then1 strumming it   
vigorously1 he sang--        8,i stole a
 plump and bonny fowl1         ,but ere 
,i well had din'd1      ,the master came
 with scowl and growl1         ,and me  
would captive bind4        8,my hat and 
mantle off ,i threw1         ,and       
scour'd across the lea2      ,then cried
 the beng with loud halloo1             
,where does the gypsy flee80    ,he     
continued playing and singing for a     
considerable time1 the two younger      
females dancing in the meanwhile with   
unwearied diligence1 whilst the  aged   

mother occasionally snapped her fingers 
or beat time on the ground  with her    
stick4  ,at last ,antonio suddenly laid 
down the instrument1  exclaiming--      
8,i see the ,london ,calor is weary2    
enough1 enough1 to-morrow more  thereof4
  ,we will now to the charip40    8,with
 all my heart10 said ,i2 8where are we  
to sleep80    8,in the stable10 said he1
 8in the manger2 however cold the stable
 may be1  we shall be warm enough in the
 bufa40          ,,chapter ,x4      ,the
 ,gypsy's ,granddaughter--,proposed     
,marriage--,the ,alguazil--,the         
,assault--,speedy ,trot--,arrival at    
,trujillo--,night and ,rain--,the       
,forest--,the  ,bivouac--,mount and     
,away6--,jaraicejo--,the ,national--,the
 ,cavalier  ,balmerson--,among the      
,thickets--,serious ,discourse--,what is
 ,truth8--,unexpected  ,intelligence4   
,we remained three days at the gypsies' 
house1 ,antonio departing early  every  
morning1 on his mule1 and returning late
 at night4  ,the house was  large and   

ruinous1 the only habitable part of it1 
with the exception of  the stable1 being
 the hall1 where we had supped1 and     
there the gypsy  females slept at night1
 on some mats and mattresses in a       
corner4    8,a strange house is this10  
said ,i to ,antonio1 one morning as he  
was on  the point of saddling his mule  
and departing1 as ,i supposed1 on the   
affairs of ,egypt2 8a strange house and 
strange people4  ,that gypsy            
grandmother has all the appearance of a 
sowanee40    8,all the appearance of    
one60 said ,antonio2 8and is she not    
really one8  ,she knows more crabbed    
things and crabbed words than all the   
,errate  betwixt here and ,catalonia4   
,she has been amongst the wild ,moors1  
and can  make more draos1 #abb poisons1 
and philtres than any one alive4  ,she  
once made a kind of paste1 and persuaded
 me to taste1 and shortly after ,i  had 
done so my soul departed from my body1  
and wandered through horrid  forests and
 mountains1 amidst monsters and duendes1

 during one entire  night4  ,she learned
 many things amidst the ,corahai which  
,i should be  glad to know40    8,have  
you been long acquainted with her80 said
 ,i4  8,you appear to be  quite at home 
in this house40    8,acquainted with    
her60 said ,antonio4  8,did not my own  
brother marry the  black ,call1 her     
daughter1 who bore him the chab1 sixteen
 years ago1  just before he was hanged  
by the ,busn80    ,in the afternoon ,i  
was seated with the gypsy mother in the 
hall1 the two  ,callees were absent     
telling fortunes about the town and     
neighbourhood1  which was their         
principal occupation4  8,are you        
married1 my ,london  ,calor80 said the  
old woman to me4  8,are you a ro80      
,myself4--,wherefore do you ask1 ,o ,dai
 de los ,cals8 #abc;a    ,gypsy         
,mother4--,it is high time that the     
lacha #abc;b of the chabi  were taken   
from her1 and that she had a ro4  ,you  
can do no better than  take her for rom1
 my ,london ,calor4    ,myself4--,i am a

 stranger in this land1 ,o mother of the
 gypsies1 and  scarcely know how to     
provide for myself1 much less for a rom4
    ,gypsy ,mother4--,she wants no one  
to provide for her1 my ,london ,calor2  
she can at any time provide for herself 
and her ro4  ,she can  hokkawar1 tell   
baji1 and there are few to equal her at 
stealing   pastesas4 #abd  ,were she    
once at ,madrilati1 where they tell me  
you  are going1 she would make much     
treasure2 therefore take her thither1   
for  in this foros she is nahi1 as it   
were1 for there is nothing to be        
gained2 but in the foros baro it would  
be another matter2 she would go  dressed
 in lachip and sonacai1 whilst you would
 ride about on your  black-tailed gra2  
and when you had got much treasure1 you 
might return  hither and live like a    
,crallis1 and all the ,errate of the    
,chim del  ,manr should bow down their  
heads to you4  ,what say you1 my ,london
  ,calor1 what say you to my plan8      
,myself4--,your plan is a plausible one1

 mother1 or at least some people  would 
think so2 but ,i am1 as you are aware1  
of another chim1 and have  no           
inclination to pass my life in this     
country4    ,gypsy ,mother4--,then      
return to your own country1 my ,calor1  
the chab  can cross the pa4  ,would she 
not do business in ,london with the rest
  of the ,calor8  ,or why not go to the 
land of the ,corahai8  ,in which  case  
,i would accompany you2 ,i and my       
daughter1 the mother of the chab4       
,myself4--,and what should we do in the 
land of the ,corahai8  ,it is a  poor   
and wild country1 ,i believe4    ,gypsy 
,mother4--,the ,london ,calor asks me   
what we could do in the land  of the    
,corahai6  ,aromali6 ,i almost think    
that ,i am speaking to a  lilipendi4    
,are there not horses to chore8  ,yes1  
,i trow there are1  and better ones than
 in this land1 and asses and mules4  ,in
 the land of  the ,corahai you must     
hokkawar and chore even as you must     
here1 or  in your own country1 or else  

you are no ,calor4  ,can you not join   
yourselves with the black people who    
live in the despoblados8  ,yes1  surely2
 and glad they would be to have among   
them the ,errate from ,spain  and       
,london4  ,i am seventy years of age1   
but ,i wish not to die in this  chim1   
but yonder1 far away1 where both my roms
 are sleeping4  ,take  the chab1        
therefore1 and go to ,madrilati to win  
the parn1 and  when you have got it1    
return1 and we will give a banquet to   
all the  ,busn in ,merida1 and in their 
food ,i will mix drao1 and they shall   
eat and burst like poisoned sheep4 4 4 4
  ,and when they have eaten we  will    
leave them1 and away to the land of the 
,moor1 my ,london ,calor4    ,during the
 whole time that ,i remained at ,merida 
,i stirred not once from  the house2    
following the advice of ,antonio1 who   
informed me that it would  not be       
convenient4  ,my time lay rather heavily
 on my hands1 my only  source of        
amusement consisting in the conversation

 of the women1 and in  that of ,antonio 
when he made his appearance at night4   
,in these  tertulias the grandmother was
 the principal spokeswoman1 and         
astonished  my ears with wonderful tales
 of the land of the ,moors1 prison      
escapes1  thievish feats1 and one or two
 poisoning adventures1 in which she had 
been engaged1 as she informed me1 in her
 early youth4    ,there was occasionally
 something very wild in her gestures and
 demeanour2  more than once ,i observed 
her1 in the midst of much declamation1  
to stop  short1 stare in vacancy1 and   
thrust out her palms as if endeavouring 
to  push away some invisible substance2 
she goggled frightfully with her  eyes1 
and once sank back in convulsions1 of   
which her children took no  farther     
notice than observing that she was only 
lil1 and would soon  come to herself4   
,late in the afternoon of the third day1
 as the three women and myself sat      
conversing as usual over the brasero1 a 
shabby-looking fellow in an old  rusty  

cloak walked into the room4  ,he came   
straight up to the place where  we were 
sitting1 produced a paper cigar1 which  
he lighted at a coal1 and  taking a     
whiff or two1 looked at me3 8,carracho10
 said he1 8who is this  companion80     
,i saw at once that the fellow was no   
gypsy3 the women said nothing1 but ,i   
could hear the grandmother growling to  
herself1 something after the  manner of 
an old grimalkin when disturbed4        
8,carracho10 reiterated the fellow1 8how
 came this companion here80    8,no le  
penela chi1 min chabor10 said the black 
,callee to me1 in an  undertone2 8sin un
 balich de los chineles20 #abf then     
looking up to  the interrogator1 she    
said aloud1 8,he is one of our people   
from ,portugal1  come on the smuggling  
lay1 and to see his poor sisters here40 
8,then let him give me some tobacco10   
said the fellow2 8,i suppose he has     
brought some with him40    8,he has no  
tobacco10 said the black ,callee2 8he   
has nothing but old  iron4  ,this cigar 

is the only tobacco there is in the     
house2 take it1  smoke it1 and go away60
    ,thereupon she produced a cigar from
 out her shoe1 which she presented to   
the alguazil4    8,this will not do10   
said the fellow1 taking the cigar2 8,i  
must have  something better4  ,it is now
 three months since ,i received anything
 from  you4  ,the last present was a    
handkerchief1 which was good for        
nothing2  therefore hand me over        
something worth taking1 or ,i will carry
 you all to  the ,carcel40    8,the     
,busn will take us to prison10 said the 
black ,callee2 8ha6 ha6  ha60    8,the  
,chinel will take us to prison10 giggled
 the young girl2 8he6 he6  he60    8,the
 ,bengui will carry us all to the       
estaripel10 grunted the gypsy           
grandmother2 8ho6 ho6 ho60    ,the three
 females arose and walked slowly round  
the fellow1 fixing their  eyes          
steadfastly on his face2 he appeared    
frightened1 and evidently  wished to get
 away4  ,suddenly the two youngest      

seized his hands1 and  whilst he        
struggled to release himself1 the old   
woman exclaimed1 8,you  want tobacco1   
hijo--you come to the gypsy house to    
frighten the  ,callees and the strange  
,calor out of their plako--truly1 hijo1 
we  have none for you1 and right sorry  
,i am2 we have1 however1 plenty of the  
dust  su servicio40 #abg    ,here1      
thrusting her hand into her pocket1 she 
discharged a handful of  some kind of   
dust or snuff into the fellow's eyes2 he
 stamped and roared1  but was for some  
time held fast by the two ,callees4  ,he
 extricated  himself1 however1 and      
attempted to unsheath a knife which he  
bore at his  girdle2 but the two younger
 females flung themselves upon him like 
furies1 while the old woman increased   
his disorder by thrusting her stick     
into his face2 he was soon glad to give 
up the contest1 and retreated1  leaving 
behind him his hat and cloak1 which the 
chab gathered up and  flung after him   
into the street4    8,this is a bad     

business10 said ,i2 8the fellow will of 
course bring the  rest of the justicia  
upon us1 and we shall all be cast into  
the  estaripel40    8,ca60 said the     
black ,callee1 biting her thumb-nail1   
8he has more  reason to fear us than we 
him4  ,we could bring him to the        
filimicha2 we  have1 moreover1 friends  
in this town--plenty1 plenty40          
8,yes10 mumbled the grandmother1 8the   
daughters of the baji have  friends1 my 
,london ,calor1 friends among the ,busn1
 baributre1  barib40    ,nothing farther
 of any account occurred in the gypsy   
house4  ,the next  day1 ,antonio and    
myself were again in the saddle2 we     
travelled at least  thirteen leagues    
before we reached the venta1 where we   
passed the  night4  ,we rose early in   
the morning1 my guide informing me that 
we had a  long day's journey to make4   
8,where are we bound to80 ,i demanded4  
8,to  ,trujillo10 he replied4    ,when  
the sun arose1 which it did gloomily1   
and amidst threatening  rain-clouds1 we 

found ourselves in the neighbourhood of 
a range of  mountains which lay on our  
left1 and which1 ,antonio informed me1  
were  called the ,sierra of ,san        
,selvan4  ,our route1 however1 lay over 
wide  plains1 scantily clothed with     
brushwood1 with here and there a        
melancholy  village1 with its old and   
dilapidated church4  ,throughout the    
greater  part of the day1 a drizzling   
rain was falling1 which turned the dust 
of  the roads into mud and mire1        
considerably impeding our progress4     
,towards  evening we reached a moor1 a  
wild place enough1 strewn with enormous 
stones and rocks4  ,before us1 at some  
distance1 rose a strange conical  hill1 
rough and shaggy1 which appeared to be  
neither more nor less than  an immense  
assemblage of the same kind of rocks    
which lay upon the moor4  ,the rain had 
now ceased1 but a strong wind rose and  
howled at our backs4  ,throughout the   
journey1 ,i had experienced considerable
 difficulty in  keeping up with the mule

 of ,antonio2 the walk of the horse was 
slow1 and  ,i could discover no vestige 
of the spirit which the gypsy had       
assured me  lurked within him4  ,we were
 now upon a tolerably clear spot of the 
moor3  8,i am about to see10 ,i said1   
8whether this horse has any of the      
quality  which you have described40     
8,do so10 said ,antonio1 and spurred his
 beast  onward1 speedily leaving me far 
behind4  ,i jerked the horse with the   
bit1  endeavouring to arouse his dormant
 spirit1 whereupon he stopped1 reared1  
and refused to proceed4  8,hold the     
bridle loose1 and touch him with your   
whip10 shouted ,antonio from before4  ,i
 obeyed1 and forthwith the animal  set  
off at a trot1 which gradually increased
 in swiftness till it became  a         
downright furious speedy trot2 his limbs
 were now thoroughly lithy1 and  he     
brandished his fore-legs in a manner    
perfectly wondrous4  ,the mule of       
,antonio1 which was a spirited animal of
 excellent paces1 would fain have       

competed with him1 but was passed in a  
twinkling4  ,this tremendous trot       
endured for about a mile1 when the      
animal1 becoming yet more heated1  broke
 suddenly into a gallop4  ,hurrah6 no   
hare ever ran so wildly or  blindly2 it 
was1 literally1 ventre  terre2 and ,i   
had considerable  difficulty in keeping 
him clear of rocks1 against which he    
would have  rushed in his savage fury1  
and dashed himself and rider to atoms4  
,this race brought me to the foot of the
 hill1 where ,i waited till the  gypsy  
rejoined me4  ,we left the hill1 which  
seemed quite inaccessible1 on  our      
right1 passing through a small and      
wretched village4  ,the sun went  down1 
and dark night presently came upon us2  
we proceeded on1 however1  for nearly   
three hours1 until we heard the barking 
of dogs1 and perceived  a light or two  
in the distance4  8,that is ,trujillo10 
said ,antonio1 who  had not spoken for a
 long time4  8,i am glad of it10 ,i     
replied2 8,i am  thoroughly tired2 ,i   

shall sleep soundly in ,trujillo40      
8,that is as it may  be10 said the      
gypsy1 and spurred his mule to a brisker
 pace4  ,we soon  entered the town1     
which appeared dark and gloomy enough2  
,i followed close  behind the gypsy1 who
 led the way ,i knew not whither1       
through dismal  streets and dark places1
 where cats were squalling4  8,here is  
the house10  said he at last1           
dismounting before a low mean hut4  ,he 
knocked--no answer  was returned2 he    
knocked again1 but still there was no   
reply2 he shook  the door and essayed to
 open it1 but it appeared firmly locked 
and  bolted4  8,caramba60 said he2 8they
 are out--,i feared it might be so4     
,now1 what are we to do80    8,there can
 be no difficulty10 said ,i1 8with      
respect to what we have to  do2 if your 
friends are gone out1 it is easy enough 
to go to a posada40    8,you know not   
what you say10 replied the gypsy4  8,i  
dare not go to the  mesuna1 nor enter   
any house in ,trujillo save this1 and   

this is shut4  ,well1 there is no       
remedy2 we must move on1 and1 between   
ourselves1 the  sooner we leave this    
place the better2 my own planor was     
garroted at  ,trujillo40    ,he lighted 
a cigar1 by means of a steel and yesca1 
sprang on his mule1  and proceeded      
through streets and lanes equally dismal
 as those which we  had already         
traversed1 till we again found ourselves
 out of the town4    ,i confess ,i did  
not much like this decision of the      
gypsy2 ,i felt very  slight inclination 
to leave the town behind1 and to venture
 into unknown  places in the dark night1
 amidst rain and mist1 for the wind had 
now  dropped1 and the rain began again  
to fall briskly4  ,i was1 moreover1 much
  fatigued1 and wished for nothing      
better than to deposit myself in some   
comfortable manger1 where ,i might sink 
to sleep1 lulled by the pleasant  sound 
of horses and mules despatching their   
provender4  ,i had1 however1  put myself
 under the direction of the gypsy1 and  

,i was too old a  traveller to quarrel  
with my guide under the present         
circumstances4  ,i  therefore followed  
close at his crupper1 our only light    
being the glow  emitted from the gypsy's
 cigar2 at last he flung it from his    
mouth into a  puddle1 and we were then  
in darkness4    ,we proceeded in this   
manner for a long time4  ,the gypsy was 
silent2 ,i  myself was equally so2 the  
rain descended more and more4  ,i       
sometimes  thought ,i heard doleful     
noises1 something like the hooting of   
owls4  8,this is a strange night to be  
wandering abroad in10 ,i at length said 
to  ,antonio4  8,it is1 brother10 said  
he2 8but ,i would sooner be abroad in   
such a night1 and in such places1 than  
in the estaripel of ,trujillo40    ,we  
wandered at least a league farther1 and 
appeared now to be near a  wood1 for ,i 
could occasionally distinguish the      
trunks of immense trees4  ,suddenly     
,antonio stopped his mule4  8,look1     
brother10 said he1 8to the  left1 and   

tell me if you do not see a light2 your 
eyes are sharper than  mine40  ,i did as
 he commanded me4  ,at first ,i could   
see nothing1 but1  moving a little      
farther on1 ,i plainly saw a large light
 at some distance1  seemingly amongst   
the trees4  8,yonder cannot be a lamp or
 candle10 said  ,i2 8it is more like the
 blaze of a fire40  8,very likely10 said
 ,antonio4  8,there are no queres in    
this place2 it is doubtless a fire made 
by  durotunes4  ,let us go and join     
them1 for1 as you say1 it is doleful    
work wandering about at night amidst    
rain and mire40    ,we dismounted and   
entered what ,i now saw was a forest1   
leading the  animals cautiously amongst 
the trees and brushwood4  ,in about five
  minutes we reached a small open space1
 at the farther side of which1 at  the  
foot of a large cork-tree1 a fire was   
burning1 and by it stood or sat  two or 
three figures2 they had heard our       
approach1 and one of them now           
exclaimed1 8,quien vive60 #acb  8,i know

 that voice10 said ,antonio2 and1       
leaving the horse with me1 rapidly      
advanced towards the fire4  ,presently  
,i heard an ,ola6 and a laugh1 and soon 
the voice of ,antonio summoned me  to   
advance4  ,on reaching the fire ,i found
 two dark lads1 and a still  darker     
woman of about forty2 the latter seated 
on what appeared to be  horse or mule   
furniture4  ,i likewise saw a horse and 
two donkeys tethered  to the            
neighbouring trees4  ,it was1 in fact1 a
 gypsy bivouac4 4 4 4  8,come forward1  
brother1 and show yourself10 said       
,antonio to me2 8you are  amongst       
friends4  ,these are of the ,errate1 the
 very people whom ,i  expected to find  
at ,trujillo1 and in whose house we     
should have slept40    8,and what10 said
 ,i1 8could have induced them to leave  
their house in  ,trujillo and come into 
this dark forest1 in the midst of wind  
and rain1  to pass the night80    8,they
 come on business of ,egypt1 brother1   
doubtless10 replied ,antonio2  8and that

 business is none of ours4  ,calla boca6
 #acc;a  ,it is lucky we  have found    
them here1 else we should have had no   
supper1 and our horses  no corn40       
8,my ro is prisoner at the village      
yonder10 said the woman1 pointing  with 
her hand in a particular direction2 8he 
is prisoner yonder for  choring a       
mailla4 #acc;b  ,we are come to see what
 we can do in his  behalf2 and where can
 we lodge better than in this forest1   
where there is  nothing to pay8  ,it is 
not the first time1 ,i trow1 that ,calor
 have  slept at the root of a tree40    
,one of the striplings now gave us      
barley for our animals in a large bag1  
into which we successively introduced   
their heads1 allowing the famished      
creatures to regale themselves till we  
conceived that they had satisfied  their
 hunger4  ,there was a puchero simmering
 at the fire1 half full of  bacon1      
garbanzos1 and other provisions2 this   
was emptied into a large  wooden        
platter1 and out of this ,antonio and   

myself supped4  ,the other  gypsies     
refused to join us1 giving us to        
understand that they had eaten  before  
our arrival2 they all1 however1 did     
justice to the leathern bottle  of      
,antonio1 which1 before his departure   
from ,merida1 he had the  precaution to 
fill4    ,i was by this time completely 
overcome with fatigue and sleep4        
,antonio  flung me an immense           
horse-cloth1 of which he bore more than 
one beneath  the huge cushion on which  
he rode2 in this ,i wrapped myself1 and 
placing  my head upon a bundle1 and my  
feet as near as possible to the fire1 ,i
 lay  down4    ,antonio and the other   
gypsies remained seated by the fire     
conversing4  ,i  listened for a moment  
to what they said1 but ,i did not       
perfectly  understand it1 and what ,i   
did understand by no means interested   
me4  ,the  rain still drizzled1 but ,i  
heeded it not1 and was soon asleep4     
,the sun was just appearing as ,i awoke4
  ,i made several efforts before ,i     

could rise from the ground2 my limbs    
were quite stiff1 and my hair was       
covered with rime1 for the rain had     
ceased and a rather severe frost set    
in4  ,i looked around me1 but could see 
neither ,antonio nor the gypsies4  ,the 
animals of the latter had likewise      
disappeared1 so had the horse  which ,i 
had hitherto rode2 the mule1 however1 of
 ,antonio still remained  fastened to   
the tree4  ,this latter circumstance    
quieted some  apprehensions which were  
beginning to arise in my mind4  8,they  
are gone  on some business of ,egypt10  
,i said to myself1 8and will return     
anon40  ,i  gathered together the embers
 of the fire1 and heaping upon them     
sticks  and branches1 soon succeeded in 
calling forth a blaze1 beside which ,i  
again placed the puchero1 with what     
remained of the provision of last       
night4  ,i waited for a considerable    
time in expectation of the return of  my
 companions1 but as they did not appear1
 ,i sat down and breakfasted4  ,before  

,i had well finished ,i heard the noise 
of a horse approaching  rapidly1 and    
presently ,antonio made his appearance  
amongst the trees1  with some agitation 
in his countenance4  ,he sprang from the
 horse1 and  instantly proceeded to     
untie the mule4  8,mount1 brother1      
mount60 said he1  pointing to the horse4
  8,i went with the ,callee and her     
chabs to the  village where the ro is in
 trouble2 the chinobar1 however1 seized 
them at once with their cattle1 and     
would have laid hands also on me1 but   
,i set spurs to the grasti1 gave him the
 bridle1 and was soon far away4  ,mount1
 brother1 mount1 or we shall have the   
whole rustic canaille upon  us in a     
twinkling40    ,i did as he commanded3  
we were presently in the road which we  
had left  the night before4  ,along this
 we hurried at a great rate1 the horse  
displaying his best speedy trot2 whilst 
the mule1 with its ears pricked  up1    
galloped gallantly at his side4  8,what 
place is that on the hill  yonder80 said

 ,i to ,antonio1 at the expiration of an
 hour1 as we prepared  to descend a deep
 valley4    8,that is ,jaraicejo10 said 
,antonio2 8a bad place it is1 and a bad 
place it  has ever been for the ,cal    
people40 #ace    8,if it is such a bad  
place10 said ,i1 8,i hope we shall not  
have to pass  through it40    8,we must 
pass through it10 said ,antonio1 8for   
more reasons than one3  first1 forasmuch
 as the road lies through ,jaraicejo2   
and1 second1  forasmuch as it will be   
necessary to purchase provisions there1 
both for  ourselves and horses4  ,on the
 other side of ,jaraicejo there is a    
wild  desert1 a despoblado1 where we    
shall find nothing40    ,we crossed the 
valley1 and ascended the hill1 and as we
 drew near to the  town1 the gypsy said1
 8,brother1 we had best pass through    
that town  singly4  ,i will go in       
advance2 follow slowly1 and when there  
purchase  bread and barley2 you have    
nothing to fear4  ,i will await you on  
the  despoblado40    ,without waiting   

for my answer he hastened forward1 and  
was speedily out  of sight4    ,i       
followed slowly behind1 and entered the 
gate of the town1 an old  dilapidated   
place1 consisting of little more than   
one street4  ,along this  street ,i was 
advancing1 when a man with a dirty      
foraging cap on his head1  and holding a
 gun in his hand1 came running up to me4
  8,who are you80  said he1 in rather   
rough accents2 8from whence do you      
come80    8,from ,badajoz and           
,trujillo10 ,i replied2 8why do you     
ask80    8,i am one of the national     
guard10 said the man1 8and am placed    
here to  inspect strangers4  ,i am told 
that a gypsy fellow just now rode       
through  the town2 it is well for him   
that ,i had stepped into my house4  ,do 
you  come in his company80    8,do ,i   
look a person10 said ,i1 8likely to keep
 company with gypsies80    ,the national
 measured me from top to toe1 and then  
looked me full in the  face with an     
expression which seemed to say1 8likely 

enough40  ,in fact1  my appearance was  
by no means calculated to prepossess    
people in my  favour4  ,upon my head ,i 
wore an old ,andalusian hat1 which1 from
 its  condition1 appeared to have been  
trodden underfoot2 a rusty cloak1 which 
had perhaps served half a dozen         
generations1 enwrapped my body4  ,my    
nether garments were by no means of the 
finest description1 and1 as far  as     
could be seen1 were covered with mud1   
with which my face was likewise         
plentifully bespattered1 and upon my    
chin was a beard of a week's growth4    
8,have you a passport80 at length       
demanded the national4    ,i remembered 
having read that the best way to win a  
,spaniard's heart is  to treat him with 
ceremonious civility4  ,i therefore     
dismounted1 and  taking off my hat1 made
 a low bow to the constitutional        
soldier1 saying1  8,seor nacional1 you  
must know that ,i am an ,english        
gentleman1  travelling in this country  
for my pleasure4  ,i bear a passport1   

which1 on  inspecting1 you will find to 
be perfectly regular2 it was given me by
 the  great ,lord ,palmerston1 minister 
of ,england1 whom you of course have    
heard  of here2 at the bottom you will  
see his own handwriting4  ,look at it   
and  rejoice2 perhaps you will never    
have another opportunity4  ,as ,i put   
unbounded confidence in the honour of   
every gentleman1 ,i leave the  passport 
in your hands whilst ,i repair to the   
posada to refresh myself4  ,when you    
have inspected it1 you will perhaps     
oblige me so far as to bring  it to me4 
,cavalier1 ,i kiss your hands40    ,i   
then made him another low bow1 which he 
returned with one still lower1  and     
leaving him now staring at the passport 
and now looking at myself1 ,i  went into
 a posada1 to which ,i was directed by a
 beggar whom ,i met4    ,i fed the      
horse1 and procured some bread and      
barley1 as the gypsy had  directed me2  
,i likewise purchased three fine        
partridges of a fowler1 who  was        

drinking wine in the posada4  ,he was   
satisfied with the price ,i  gave him1  
and offered to treat me with a copita1  
to which ,i made no  objection4  ,as we 
sat discoursing at the table1 the       
national entered with  the passport in  
his hand1 and sat down by us4           
,national4--,caballero6  ,i return you  
your passport2 it is quite in  form4  ,i
 rejoice much to have made your         
acquaintance2 ,i have no doubt  that you
 can give me some information respecting
 the present war4    ,myself4--,i shall 
be very happy to afford so polite and   
honourable a  gentleman any information 
in my power4    ,national4--,what is    
,england doing8  ,is she about to afford
 any assistance  to this country8  ,if  
she pleased she could put down the war  
in three  months4    ,myself4--,be under
 no apprehension1 ,seor nacional2 the   
war will be put  down1 don't doubt4     
,you have heard of the ,english legion1 
#ach;a which my  ,lord ,palmerston has  
sent over8  ,leave the matter in their  

hands1 and you  will soon see the       
result4    ,national4--,it appears to me
 that this ,caballero ,balmerson must be
 a  very honest man4    ,myself4--,there
 can be no doubt of it4                 
,national4--,i have heard that he is a  
great general4    ,myself4--,there can  
be no doubt of it4  ,in some things     
neither ,napoleon  nor the ,sawyer      
#ach;b would stand a chance with him for
 a moment4  ,es  mucho hombre4 #ach;c   
,national4--,i am glad to hear it4      
,does he intend to head the legion      
himself8    ,myself4--,i believe not2   
but he has sent over1 to head the       
fighting men1  a friend of his1 who is  
thought to be nearly as much versed in  
military  matters as himself4           
,national4--,i am rejoiced to hear it4  
,i see that the war will soon be  over4 
,caballero1 ,i thank you for your       
politeness1 and for the  information    
which you have afforded me4  ,i hope you
 will have a pleasant  journey4  ,i     
confess that ,i am surprised to see a   

gentleman of your  country travelling   
alone1 and in this manner1 through such 
regions as  these4  ,the roads are at   
present very bad2 there have of late    
been many  accidents1 and more than two 
deaths in this neighbourhood4  ,the     
despoblado out yonder has a particularly
 evil name2 be on your guard1           
,caballero4  ,i am sorry that gypsy was 
permitted to pass2 should you  meet him 
and not like his looks1 shoot him at    
once1 stab him1 or ride him  down4  ,he 
is a well-known thief1 contrabandista1  
and murderer1 and has  committed more   
assassinations than he has fingers on   
his hands4  ,caballero1 if you please1  
we will allow you a guard to the other  
side  of the pass4  ,you do not wish it8
  ,then1 farewell4  ,stay1 before ,i go 
,i  should wish to see once more the    
signature of the ,caballero ,balmerson4 
,i showed him the signature1 which he   
looked upon with profound reverence1    
uncovering his head for a moment4  ,we  
then embraced and parted4    ,i mounted 

the horse and rode from the town1 at    
first proceeding very  slowly4  ,i had  
no sooner1 however1 reached the moor1   
than ,i put the  animal to his speedy   
trot1 and proceeded at a tremendous rate
 for some  time1 expecting every moment 
to overtake the gypsy4  ,i1 however1 saw
  nothing of him1 nor did ,i meet with a
 single human being4  ,the road along   
which ,i sped was narrow and sandy1     
winding amidst thickets of broom and    
brushwood1 with which the despoblado was
 overgrown1 and which in some  places   
were as high as a man's head4  ,across  
the moor1 in the direction  in which ,i 
was proceeding1 rose a lofty eminence1  
naked and bare4  ,the  moor extended for
 at least three leagues2 ,i had nearly  
crossed it1 and  reached the foot of the
 ascent4  ,i was becoming very uneasy1  
conceiving  that ,i might have passed   
the gypsy amongst the thickets1 when ,i 
suddenly  heard his well-known ,ola6 and
 his black savage head and staring eyes 
suddenly appeared from amidst a clump of

 broom4    8,you have tarried long1     
brother10 said he2 8,i almost thought   
you had  played me false40    ,he bade  
me dismount1 and then proceeded to lead 
the horse behind the  thicket1 where ,i 
found the mule picqueted to the ground4 
,i gave him the  barley and provisions1 
and then proceeded to relate to him my  
adventure  with the national4    8,i    
would ,i had him here10 said the gypsy1 
on hearing the epithets which  the      
former had lavished upon him--8,i would 
,i had him here1 then should my  chul   
and his carlo become better acquainted40
    8,and what are you doing here       
yourself10 ,i demanded1 8in this wild   
place1  amidst these thickets80    8,i  
am expecting a messenger down yon pass10
 said the gypsy2 8and till  that        
messenger arrive ,i can neither go      
forward nor return4  ,it is on  business
 of ,egypt1 brother1 that ,i am here40  
,as he invariably used this last        
expression when he wished to evade my   
inquiries1 ,i held my peace1 and said no

 more4  ,the animals were fed1 and  we  
proceeded to make a frugal repast on    
bread and wine4    8,why do you not cook
 the game which ,i brought80 ,i         
demanded2 8in this  place there is      
plenty of materials for a fire40        
8,the smoke might discover us1 brother10
 said ,antonio4  8,i am desirous of     
lying escondido in this place until the 
arrival of the messenger40    ,it was   
now considerably past noon4  ,the gypsy 
lay behind the thicket1  raising himself
 up occasionally and looking anxiously  
towards the hill  which lay over against
 us2 at last1 with an exclamation of    
disappointment  and impatience1 he flung
 himself on the ground1 where he lay a  
considerable time1 apparently           
ruminating2 at last he lifted up his    
head  and looked me in the face4        
,antonio4--,brother1 ,i cannot imagine  
what business brought you to this       
country4    ,myself4--,perhaps the same 
which brings you to this moor--business 
of  ,egypt4    ,antonio4--,not so1      

brother2 you speak the language of      
,egypt1 it is true1  but your ways and  
words are neither those of the ,cals nor
 of the  ,busn4    ,myself4--,did you   
not hear me speak in the foros about    
,god and  ,tebleque8  ,it was to declare
 ,his glory to the ,cals and ,gentiles  
that  ,i came to the land of ,spain4    
,antonio4--,and who sent you on this    
errand8    ,myself4--,you would scarcely
 understand me were ,i to inform you4   
,know1  however1 that there are many in 
foreign lands who lament the darkness   
which envelops ,spain1 and the scenes of
 cruelty1 robbery1 and murder  which    
deform it4    ,antonio4--,are they      
,calor or ,busn8    ,myself4--,what     
matters it8  ,both ,calor and ,busn are 
sons of the  same ,god4                 
,antonio4--,you lie1 brother2 they are  
not of one father nor of one  ,errate4  
,you speak of robbery1 cruelty1 and     
murder4  ,there are too many  ,busn1    
brother2 if there were no ,busn there   
would be neither robbery  nor murder4   

,the ,calor neither rob nor murder each 
other1 the ,busn  do2 nor are they cruel
 to their animals1 their law forbids    
them4  ,when ,i  was a child ,i was     
beating a burra1 but my father stopped  
my hand1 and  chided me4  8,hurt not the
 animal10 said he2 8for within it is the
 soul of  your own sister60             
,myself4--,and do you believe in this   
wild doctrine1 ,o ,antonio8             
,antonio4--,sometimes ,i do1 sometimes  
,i do not4  ,there are some who  believe
 in nothing2 not even that they live6   
,long since1 ,i knew an old  ,calor--he 
was old1 very old1 upwards of a hundred 
years--and ,i once  heard him say1 that 
all we thought we saw was a lie2 that   
there was no  world1 no men nor women1  
no horses nor mules1 no olive-trees4    
,but  whither are we straying8  ,i asked
 what induced you to come to this       
country--you tell me1 the glory of ,god 
and ,tebleque4  ,disparate6 tell  that  
to the ,busn4  ,you have good reasons   
for coming1 no doubt1 else  you would   

not be here4  ,some say you are a spy of
 the ,london4  ,perhaps  you are2 ,i    
care not4  ,rise1 brother1 and tell me  
whether any one is  coming down the     
pass4    8,i see a distant object10 ,i  
replied2 8like a speck on the side of   
the  hill40    ,the gypsy started up1   
and we both fixed our eyes on the       
object3 the  distance was so great that 
it was at first with difficulty that we 
could  distinguish whether it moved or  
not4  ,a quarter of an hour1 however1   
dispelled all doubts1 for within this   
time it had nearly reached the  bottom  
of the hill1 and we could descry a      
figure seated on an animal of  some     
kind4    8,it is a woman10 said ,i1 at  
length1 8mounted on a grey donkey40     
8,then it is my messenger10 said        
,antonio1 8for it can be no other40     
,the woman and the donkey were now upon 
the plain1 and for some time were       
concealed from us by the copse and      
brushwood which intervened4  ,they were 
not long1 however1 in making their      

appearance at the distance of about a   
hundred yards4  ,the donkey was a       
beautiful creature of a silver grey1 and
  came frisking along1 swinging her     
tail1 and moving her feet so quick that 
they scarcely seemed to touch the       
ground4  ,the animal no sooner perceived
  us than she stopped short1 turned     
round1 and attempted to escape by the   
way she had come2 her rider1 however1   
detained her1 whereupon the donkey      
kicked violently1 and would probably    
have flung the former1 had she not      
sprung nimbly to the ground4  ,the form 
of the woman was entirely  concealed by 
the large wrapping man's cloak which she
 wore4  ,i ran to  assist her1 when she 
turned her face full upon me1 and ,i    
instantly  recognized the sharp1 clever 
features of ,antonia1 whom ,i had seen  
at  ,badajoz1 the daughter of my guide4 
,she said nothing to me1 but advancing  
to her father1 addressed something to   
him in a low voice1 which ,i did not    
hear4  ,he started back1 and vociferated

 8,all60  8,yes10 said she in a  louder 
tone1 probably repeating the words which
 ,i had not caught before1  8,all are   
captured40    ,the gypsy remained for   
some time like one astounded1 and1      
unwilling to  listen to their discourse1
 which ,i imagined might relate to      
business of  ,egypt1 ,i walked away     
amidst the thickets4  ,i was absent for 
some time1  but could occasionally hear 
passionate expressions and oaths4  ,in  
about  half an hour ,i returned2 they   
had left the road1 but ,i found them    
behind  the broom clump1 where the      
animals stood4  ,both were seated on the
  ground4  ,the features of the gypsy   
were peculiarly dark and grim2 he held  
his unsheathed knife in his hand1 which 
he would occasionally plunge into  the  
earth1 exclaiming1 8,all6  ,all60       
8,brother10 said he at last1 8,i can go 
no farther with you2 the business  which
 carried me to ,castumba is settled4    
,you must now travel by  yourself and   
trust to your baji40    8,i trust in    

,undevel10 ,i replied1 8who wrote my    
fortune long ago4  ,but  how am ,i to   
journey8  ,i have no horse1 for you     
doubtless want your own40    ,the gypsy 
appeared to reflect4  8,i want the      
horse1 it is true1 brother10  he said1  
8and likewise the macho2 but you shall  
not go en pindr2  #adc you shall        
purchase the burra of ,antonia1 which ,i
 presented her  when ,i sent her upon   
this expedition40    8,the burra10 ,i   
replied1 8appears both savage and       
vicious40    8,she is both1 brother1 and
 on that account ,i bought her2 a savage
 and  vicious beast has generally four  
excellent legs4  ,you are a ,cal1       
brother1 and can manage her2 you shall  
therefore purchase the savage  burra1   
giving my daughter ,antonia a baria of  
gold4  ,if you think fit1  you can sell 
the beast at ,talavera or ,madrid1 for  
,estremenian bestis  are highly         
considered in ,castumba40    ,in less   
than an hour ,i was on the other side of
 the pass1 mounted on the  savage burra4

          ,,chapter ,,xi4      ,the     
,pass of ,mirabete--,wolves and         
,shepherds--,female ,subtlety--,death by
  ,wolves--,the ,mystery solved--,the   
,mountains--,the ,dark ,hour--,the      
,traveller of  the                      
,night--,abarbenel--,hoarded            
,treasure--,force of ,gold--,the        
,archbishop--,arrival  at ,madrid4    ,i
 proceeded down the pass of ,mirabete1  
occasionally ruminating on the  matter  
which had brought me to ,spain1 and     
occasionally admiring one of  the finest
 prospects in the world4  ,before me    
outstretched lay immense  plains1       
bounded in the distance by huge         
mountains1 whilst at the foot of  the   
hill which ,i was now descending rolled 
the ,tagus1 in a deep narrow  stream1   
between lofty banks2 the whole was      
gilded by the rays of the  setting sun1 
for the day1 though cold and wintry1 was
 bright and clear4  ,in about an hour ,i
 reached the river at a place where     
stood the remains  of what had once been

 a magnificent bridge1 which had1       
however1 been  blown up in the          
,peninsular war and never since         
repaired4    ,i crossed the river in a  
ferry-boat2 the passage was rather      
difficult1  the current very rapid and  
swollen1 owing to the latter rains4     
8,am ,i in ,new ,castile80 ,i demanded  
of the ferryman1 on reaching the        
further bank4  8,the raya is many       
leagues from hence10 replied the        
ferryman2 8you seem a stranger4  ,whence
 do you come80  8,from ,england10 ,i    
replied1 and without waiting for an     
answer1 ,i sprang on the burra1 and     
proceeded on my way4  ,the burra plied  
her feet most nimbly1 and shortly  after
 nightfall1 brought me to a village at  
about two leagues' distance  from the   
river's bank4    ,i sat down in the     
venta where ,i put up2 there was a huge 
fire1  consisting of the greater part of
 the trunk of an olive-tree4  ,the      
company was rather miscellaneous3 a     
hunter with his escopeta2 a brace  of   

shepherds with immense dogs1 of that    
species for which ,estremadura  #adf is 
celebrated2 a broken soldier1 just      
returned from the wars2 and a  beggar1  
who1 after demanding charity for the    
seven wounds of ,maria  ,santsima1 took 
a seat amidst us1 and made himself quite
 comfortable4  ,the hostess was an      
active1 bustling woman1 and busied      
herself in cooking  my supper1 which    
consisted of the game which ,i had      
purchased at  ,jaraicejo1 and which1 on 
my taking leave of the gypsy1 he had    
counselled  me to take with me4  ,in the
 mean time1 ,i sat by the fire listening
 to the  conversation of the company4   
8,i would ,i were a wolf10 said one of  
the shepherds2 8or1 indeed1 anything    
rather than what ,i am4  ,a pretty life 
is this of ours1 out in the  campo1     
among the carrascales1 suffering heat   
and cold for a peseta  a day4  ,i would 
,i were a wolf2 he fares better1 and is 
more respected  than the wretch of a    
shepherd40    8,but he frequently fares 

scurvily10 said ,i2 8the shepherd and   
dogs fall  upon him1 and then he pays   
for his temerity with the loss of his   
head40    8,that is not often the case1 
seor traveller10 said the shepherd2 8he 
watches his opportunity1 and seldom runs
 into harm's way4  ,and as to  attacking
 him1 it is no very pleasant task2 he   
has both teeth and claws1  and dog or   
man1 who has once felt them1 likes not  
to venture a second  time within his    
reach4  ,these dogs of mine will seize a
 bear singly with  considerable         
alacrity1 though he is a most powerful  
animal2 but ,i have  seen them run      
howling away from a wolf1 even though   
there were two or  three of us at hand  
to encourage them40    8,a dangerous    
person is the wolf10 said the other     
shepherd1 8and cunning  as dangerous4   
,who knows more than he8  ,he knows the 
vulnerable point of  every animal2 see1 
for example1 how he flies at the neck of
 a bullock1  tearing open the veins with
 his grim teeth and claws4  ,but does he

 attack  a horse in this manner8  ,i    
trow not40    8,not he10 said the other 
shepherd1 8he is too good a judge2 but  
he  fastens on the haunches1 and        
hamstrings him in a moment4  ,oh1 the   
fear of  the horse when he comes near   
the dwelling of the wolf6  ,my master   
was the  other day riding in the        
despoblado1 above the pass1 on his fine 
,andalusian steed1 which had cost him   
five hundred dollars4  ,suddenly the    
horse stopped1 and sweated and trembled 
like a woman in the act of  fainting4   
,my master could not conceive the       
reason1 but presently he  heard a       
squealing and growling in the bushes1   
whereupon he fired off his  gun and     
scared the wolves1 who scampered away2  
but he tells me1 that the  horse has not
 yet recovered from his fright40        
8,yet the mares know1 occasionally1 how 
to balk him10 replied his  companion4   
8,there is great craft and malice in    
mares1 as there is in all  females4     
,see them feeding in the campo with     

their young cria about  them2 presently 
the alarm is given that the wolf is     
drawing near2 they  start wildly and run
 about for a moment1 but it is only for 
a  moment--amain they gather together1  
forming themselves into a circle1 in    
the centre of which they place the      
foals4  ,onward comes the wolf1 hoping  
to make his dinner on horseflesh4  ,he  
is mistaken1 however2 the mares  have   
balked him1 and are as cunning as       
himself4  ,not a tail is to be          
seen--not a hinder quarter--but there   
stand the whole troop1 their fronts     
towards him ready to receive him1 and as
 he runs round them barking and         
howling1 they rise successively on their
 hind legs1 ready to stamp him to  the  
earth1 should he attempt to hurt their  
cria or themselves40    8,worse than the
 he-wolf10 said the soldier1 8is the    
female2 for1 as the  seor pastor has    
well observed1 there is more malice in  
women than in  males4  ,to see one of   
these she-demons with a troop of the    

males at her  heels is truly surprising3
 where she turns they turn1 and what she
 does  that do they2 for they appear    
bewitched1 and have no power but to     
imitate  her actions4  ,i was once      
travelling with a comrade over the hills
 of  ,galicia1 when we heard a howl4    
#8,those are wolves1' said my companion2
  #8let us get out of the way4'  ,so we 
stepped from the path and ascended  the 
side of the hill a little way1 to a     
terrace1 where grew vines1 after  the   
manner of ,galicia4  ,presently appeared
 a large grey she-wolf1  deshonesta1    
snapping and growling at a troop of     
demons1 who followed  close behind1     
their tails uplifted1 and their eyes    
like firebrands4  ,what  do you think   
the perverse brute did8  ,instead of    
keeping to the path1 she  turned in the 
very direction in which we were2 there  
was now no remedy1  so we stood still4  
,i was the first upon the terrace1 and  
by me she  passed so close that ,i felt 
her hair brush against my legs2 she1    

however1  took no notice of me1 but     
pushed on1 neither looking to the right 
nor  left1 and all the other wolves     
trotted by me without offering the      
slightest injury1 or even so much as    
looking at me4  ,would that ,i could    
say as much for my poor companion1 who  
stood farther on1 and was1 ,i  believe1 
less in the demon's way than ,i was2 she
 had nearly passed him1  when suddenly  
she turned half round and snapped at    
him4  ,i shall never  forget what       
followed3 in a moment a dozen wolves    
were upon him1 tearing  him limb from   
limb1 with howlings like nothing in this
 world4  ,in a few  moments he was      
devoured2 nothing remained but the skull
 and a few bones2  and then they passed 
on in the same manner as they came4     
,good reason had  ,i to be grateful that
 my lady wolf took less notice of me    
than my poor  comrade40    ,listening to
 this and similar conversation1 ,i fell 
into a doze before the  fire1 in which  
,i continued for a considerable time1   

but was at length  roused by a voice    
exclaiming in a loud tone1 8,all are    
captured60  ,these  were the exact words
 which1 when spoken by his daughter1    
confounded the  gypsy upon the moor4  ,i
 looked around me4  ,the company        
consisted of the  same individuals to   
whose conversation ,i had been listening
 before ,i sank  into slumber2 but the  
beggar was now the spokesman1 and he was
 haranguing  with considerable          
vehemence4    8,i beg your pardon1      
,caballero0 said ,i1 8but ,i did not    
hear the  commencement of your          
discourse4  ,who are those who have been
 captured80    8,a band of accursed     
,gitanos1 ,caballero10 replied the      
beggar1  returning the title of courtesy
 which ,i had bestowed upon him4        
8,during  more than a fortnight they    
have infested the roads on the frontier 
of  ,castile1 and many have been the    
gentlemen travellers like yourself whom 
they have robbed and murdered4  ,it     
would seem that the gypsy canaille  must

 needs take advantage of these troublous
 times1 and form themselves  into a     
faction4  ,it is said that the fellows  
of whom ,i am speaking  expected many   
more of their brethren to join them1    
which is likely  enough1 for all gypsies
 are thieves3 but praised be ,god1 they 
have been  put down before they became  
too formidable4  ,i saw them myself     
conveyed  to the prison at ---4  ,thanks
 be to ,god4  ,todos estan presos40     
#aej;a    8,the mystery is now solved10 
said ,i to myself1 and proceeded to     
despatch  my supper1 which was now      
ready4    ,the next day's journey       
brought me to a considerable town1 the  
name of  which ,i have forgotten4  ,it  
is the first in ,new ,castile1 in this  
direction4 #aej;b  ,i passed the night  
as usual in the manger of the  stable1  
close beside the caballeria2 for1 as ,i 
travelled upon a donkey1  ,i deemed it  
incumbent upon me to be satisfied with a
 couch in keeping  with my manner of    
journeying1 being averse1 by any        

squeamish and  over-delicate airs1 to   
generate a suspicion amongst the people 
with whom  ,i mingled that ,i was aught 
higher than what my equipage and outward
  appearance might lead them to believe4
  ,rising before daylight1 ,i again     
proceeded on my way1 hoping ere night to
 be able to reach ,talavera1 which  ,i  
was informed was ten leagues distant4   
,the way lay entirely over an  unbroken 
level1 for the most part covered with   
olive-trees4  ,on the left1  however1 at
 the distance of a few leagues1 rose the
 mighty mountains  which ,i have already
 mentioned4  ,they run eastward in a    
seemingly  interminable range1 parallel 
with the route which ,i was pursuing2   
their  tops and sides were covered with 
dazzling snow1 and the blasts which came
  sweeping from them across the wide and
 melancholy plains were of bitter       
keenness4    8,what mountains are       
those80 ,i inquired of a barber-surgeon 
who1 mounted  like myself on a grey     
burra1 joined me about noon1 and        

proceeded in my  company for several    
leagues4  8,they have many names1       
,caballero10  replied the barber2       
8according to the names of the          
neighbouring places1  so they are       
called4  ,yon portion of them is styled 
the ,serrania of  ,plasencia2 and       
opposite to ,madrid they are termed the 
,mountains of  ,guadarrama1 from a river
 of that name1 which descends from them4
  ,they  run a vast way1 ,caballero1 and
 separate the two kingdoms1 for on the  
other side is ,old ,castile4  ,they are 
mighty mountains1 and1 though they      
generate much cold1 ,i take pleasure in 
looking at them1 which is not to  be    
wondered at1 seeing that ,i was born    
amongst them1 though at present1  for my
 sins1 ,i live in a village of the      
plain4  ,caballero1 there is not        
another such range in ,spain2 they have 
their secrets1 too--their  mysteries4   
,strange tales are told of those hills1 
and of what they  contain in their deep 
recesses1 for they are a broad chain1   

and you may  wander days and days       
amongst them without coming to any      
termino4  ,many  have lost themselves on
 those hills1 and have never again been 
heard of4  ,strange things are told of  
them3 it is said that in certain places 
there  are deep pools and lakes1 in     
which dwell monsters1 huge serpents as  
long  as a pine-tree1 and horses of the 
flood1 which sometimes come out and     
commit mighty damage4  ,one thing is    
certain1 that yonder1 far away to the   
west1 in the heart of those hills1 there
 is a wonderful valley1 so narrow  that 
only at mid-day is the face of the sun  
to be descried from it4  ,that  valley  
lay undiscovered and unknown for        
thousands of years2 no person  dreamed  
of its existence4  ,but at last1 a long 
time ago1 certain hunters  entered it by
 chance1 and then what do you think they
 found1 ,caballero8  ,they found a small
 nation or tribe of unknown people1     
speaking an unknown  language1 who1     
perhaps1 had lived there since the      

creation of the world1  without         
intercourse with the rest of their      
fellow-creatures1 and without  knowing  
that other beings besides themselves    
existed6  ,caballero1 did  you never    
hear of the valley of the ,batuecas8    
#aeb  ,many books have been  written    
about that valley and those people4     
,caballero1 ,i am proud of  yonder      
hills2 and were ,i independent1 and     
without wife or children1 ,i  would     
purchase a burra like that of your      
own--which ,i see is an  excellent one1 
and far superior to mine--and travel    
amongst them till ,i  knew all their    
mysteries1 and had seen all the wondrous
 things which they  contain40           
,throughout the day ,i pressed the burra
 forward1 only stopping once in  order  
to feed the animal2 but1 notwithstanding
 that she played her part  very well1   
night came on1 and ,i was still about   
two leagues from  ,talavera4  ,as the   
sun went down1 the cold became intense2 
,i drew the old  gypsy cloak1 which ,i  

still wore1 closer around me1 but ,i    
found it quite  inadequate to protect me
 from the inclemency of the atmosphere4 
,the  road1 which lay over a plain1 was 
not very distinctly traced1 and became  
in the dusk rather difficult to find1   
more especially as cross-roads  leading 
to different places were of frequent    
occurrence4  ,i1 however1  proceeded in 
the best manner ,i could1 and when ,i   
became dubious as to the  course which  
,i should take1 ,i invariably allowed   
the animal on which ,i  was mounted to  
decide4  ,at length the moon shone out  
faintly1 when  suddenly by its beams ,i 
beheld a figure moving before me at a   
slight  distance4  ,i quickened the pace
 of the burra1 and was soon close at its
  side4  ,it went on1 neither altering  
its pace nor looking round for a        
moment4  ,it was the figure of a man1   
the tallest and bulkiest that ,i had    
hitherto seen in ,spain1 dressed in a   
manner strange and singular for the     
country4  ,on his head was a hat with a 

low crown and broad brim1 very  much    
resembling that of an ,english waggoner2
 about his body was a long  loose tunic 
or slop1 seemingly of coarse ticken1    
#aec open in front1 so  as to allow the 
interior garments to be occasionally    
seen4  ,these  appeared to consist of a 
jerkin and short velveteen pantaloons4  
,i have  said that the brim of the hat  
was broad1 but broad as it was1 it was  
insufficient to cover an immense bush of
 coal-black hair1 which1 thick  and     
curly1 projected on either side4  ,over 
the left shoulder was flung a  kind of  
satchel1 and in the right hand was held 
a long staff or pole4    ,there was     
something peculiarly strange about the  
figure2 but what struck  me the most was
 the tranquillity with which it moved   
along1 taking no  heed of me1 though of 
course aware of my proximity1 but       
looking straight  forward along the     
road1 save when it occasionally raised a
 huge face and  large eyes towards the  
moon1 which was now shining forth in the

 eastern  quarter4    8,a cold night10  
said ,i at last4  8,is this the way to  
,talavera80    8,it is the way to       
,talavera1 and the night is cold40      
8,i am going to ,talavera10 said ,i1 8as
 ,i suppose you are yourself40    8,i am
 going thither1 so are you1 bueno40     
,the tones of the voice which delivered 
these words were in their way  quite as 
strange and singular as the figure to   
which the voice belonged4  ,they were   
not exactly the tones of a ,spanish     
voice1 and yet there was  something in  
them that could hardly be foreign2 the  
pronunciation also  was correct1 and the
 language1 though singular1 faultless4  
,but ,i was  most struck with the manner
 in which the last word1 bueno1 was     
spoken4  ,i had heard something like it 
before1 but where or when ,i could by no
  means remember4 #aed  ,a pause now    
ensued1 the figure stalking on as       
before with the most perfect            
indifference1 and seemingly with no     
disposition either to seek or avoid     

conversation4    8,are you not afraid10 
said ,i at last1 8to travel these roads 
in the dark8  ,it is said that there are
 robbers abroad40    8,are you not      
rather afraid10 replied the figure1 8to 
travel these roads  in the dark8--you   
who are ignorant of the country1 who are
 a foreigner1 an  ,englishman80    8,how
 is it that you know me to be an        
,englishman80 demanded ,i1 much         
surprised4    8,that is no difficult    
matter10 replied the figure2 8the sound 
of your  voice was enough to tell me    
that40    8,you speak of voices10 said  
,i2 8suppose the tone of your own voice 
were  to tell me who you are80    8,that
 it will not do10 replied my companion2 
8you know nothing about  me--you can    
know nothing about me4    8,be not sure 
of that1 my friend2 ,i am acquainted    
with many things of  which you have     
little idea40    8,por exemplo10 said   
the figure4    8,for example10 said ,i1 
8you speak two languages40    ,the      
figure moved on1 seemed to consider a   

moment and then said slowly1  8,bueno40 
8,you have two names10 ,i continued2    
8one for the house1 and the other for   
the street2 both are good1 but the one  
by which you are called at home is  the 
one which you like best40    ,the man   
walked on about ten paces1 in the same  
manner as he had  previously done2 all  
of a sudden he turned1 and taking the   
bridle of the  burra gently in his hand1
 stopped her4  ,i had now a full view of
 his  face and figure1 and those huge   
features and ,herculean form still      
occasionally revisit me in my dreams4   
,i see him standing in the  moonshine1  
staring me in the face with his deep    
calm eyes4  ,at last he  said--    8,are
 you then one of us80                   
99 99 99 99 99    ,it was late at night 
when we arrived at ,talavera4  ,we went 
to a large  gloomy house1 which my      
companion informed me was the principle 
posada  of the town4  ,we entered the   
kitchen1 at the extremity of which a    
large  fire was blazing4  8,pepita10    

#aef;a said my companion to a handsome  
girl  who advanced smiling towards us1  
8a brasero and a private apartment4     
,this cavalier is a friend of mine1 and 
we shall sup together40  ,we were  shown
 to an apartment1 in which were two     
alcoves containing beds4  ,after        
supper1 which consisted of the very     
best1 by the order of my companion1  we 
sat over the brasero1 and commenced     
talking4    ,myself4--,of course you    
have conversed with ,englishmen before1 
else you  could not have recognized me  
by the tone of my voice4    ,abarbenel4 
#aef;b--,i was a young lad when the war 
of the ,independence  broke out1 and    
there came to the village in which our  
family lived an  ,english officer1 in   
order to teach discipline to the new    
levies4  ,he was  quartered in my       
father's house1 where he conceived a    
great affection for  me4  ,on his       
departure1 with the consent of my       
father1 ,i attended him  through both   
the ,castiles1 partly as companion1     

partly as domestic4  ,i  was with him   
nearly a year1 when he was suddenly     
summoned to return to  his own country4 
,he would fain have taken me with him1  
but to that my  father would by no means
 consent4  ,it is now five and twenty   
years since  ,i last saw an ,englishman2
 but you have seen how ,i recognized    
you1 even in  the dark night4           
,myself4--,and what kind of life do you 
pursue1 and by what means do you  obtain
 support8    ,abarbenel4--,i experience 
no difficulty4  ,i live much in the same
 way as  ,i believe my forefathers      
lived3 certainly as my father did1 for  
his  course has been mine4  ,at his     
death ,i took possession of the         
herencia1  for ,i was his only child4   
,it was not requisite that ,i should    
follow any  business1 for my wealth was 
great2 yet1 to avoid remark1 ,i followed
 that  of my father1 who was a          
longanizero4  ,i have occasionally dealt
 in  wool1 but lazily--lazily--as ,i had
 no stimulus for exertion4  ,i was1     

however1 successful2 in many instances  
strangely so2 much more than many       
others who toiled day and night1 and    
whose whole soul was in the trade4      
,myself4--,have you any children8  ,are 
you married8    ,abarbenel4--,i have no 
children1 though ,i am married4  ,i have
 a wife1 and  an amiga1 or ,i should    
rather say two wives1 for ,i am wedded  
to both4  #aeg;a  ,i however call one my
 amiga1 for appearance sake1 for ,i wish
 to  live in quiet1 and am unwilling to 
offend the prejudices of the            
surrounding people4    ,myself4--,you   
say you are wealthy4  ,in what does your
 wealth consist8    ,abarbenel4--,in    
gold and silver1 and stones of price2   
for ,i have  inherited all the hoards of
 my forefathers4  ,the greater part is  
buried  underground2 indeed1 ,i have    
never examined the tenth part of it4  ,i
 have  coins of silver and gold older   
than the times of ,ferdinand the        
,accursed  and ,jezebel2 #aeg;b ,i have 
also large sums employed in usury4  ,we 

keep  ourselves close1 however1 and     
pretend to be poor1 miserably so2 but on
  certain occasions1 at our festivals1  
when our gates are barred1 and our      
savage dogs are let loose in the court1 
we eat our food off services such  as   
the ,queen of ,spain cannot boast of1   
and wash our feet in ewers of  silver1  
fashioned and wrought before the        
,americas were discovered1 though  our  
garments are at all times coarse1 and   
our food for the most part of  the      
plainest description4    ,myself4--,are 
there more of you than yourself and your
 two wives8    ,abarbenel4--,there are  
my two servants1 who are likewise of    
us--the one is  a youth1 and is about to
 leave1 being betrothed to one at some  
distance2  the other is old3 he is now  
upon the road1 following me with a mule 
and  car4    ,myself4--,and whither are 
you bound at present8                   
,abarbenel4--,to ,toledo1 where ,i ply  
my trade occasionally of  longanizero4  
,i love to wander about1 though ,i      

seldom stray far from  home4  ,since ,i 
left the ,englishman my feet have never 
once stepped beyond  the bounds of ,new 
,castile4  ,i love to visit ,toledo1 and
 to think of the  times which have long 
since departed4  ,i should establish    
myself there1  were there not so many   
accursed ones1 who look upon me with an 
evil eye4    ,myself4--,are you known   
for what you are8  ,do the authorities  
molest you8    ,abarbenel4--,people of  
course suspect me to be what ,i am2 but 
as ,i  conform outwardly in most        
respects to their ways1 they do not     
interfere  with me4  ,true it is that   
sometimes1 when ,i enter the church to  
hear the  mass1 they glare at me over   
the left shoulder1 as much as to        
say--8,what do  you here80  ,and        
sometimes they cross themselves as ,i   
pass by2 but as they  go no further1 ,i 
do not trouble myself on that account4  
,with respect to  the authorities1 they 
are not bad friends of mine4  ,many of  
the higher  class have borrowed money   

from me on usury1 so that ,i have them  
to a  certain extent in my power2 and as
 for the low alguazils and  corchetes1  
they would do anything to oblige me1 in 
consideration of a  few dollars which ,i
 occasionally give them2 so that matters
 upon the  whole go on remarkably well4 
,of old1 indeed1 it was far otherwise2  
yet1  ,i know not how it was1 though    
other families suffered much1 ours      
always  enjoyed a tolerable share of    
tranquillity4  ,the truth is1 that our  
family  has always known how to guide   
itself wonderfully4  ,i may say there is
  much of the wisdom of the snake       
amongst us4  ,we have always possessed  
friends2 and with respect to enemies1 it
 is by no means safe to meddle  with us1
 for it is a rule of our house never to 
forgive an injury1 and to  spare neither
 trouble nor expense in bringing ruin   
and destruction upon  the heads of our  
evil-doers4    ,myself4--,do the priests
 interfere with you8                    
,abarbenel4--,they let me alone1        

especially in our own neighbourhood4    
,shortly after the death of my father   
one hot-headed individual  endeavoured  
to do me an evil turn2 but ,i soon      
requited him1 causing him  to be        
imprisoned on a charge of blasphemy1 and
 in prison he remained a  long time1    
till he went mad and died4              
,myself4--,have you a head in ,spain1 in
 whom is vested the chief  authority8   
,abarbenel4--,not exactly4  ,there are1 
however1 certain holy families who      
enjoy much consideration2 my own is one 
of these--the chiefest1 ,i may say4  ,my
 grandsire was a particularly holy man2 
and ,i have heard my father say1  that  
one night an archbishop came to his     
house secretly1 merely to have  the     
satisfaction of kissing his head4       
,myself4--,how can that be8  ,what      
reverence could an archbishop entertain 
for one like yourself or your grandsire8
    ,abarbenel4--,more than you imagine4
  ,he was one of us1 at least his       
father was1 and he could never forget   

what he had learned with reverence  in  
his infancy4  ,he said he had tried to  
forget it1 but he could not2  that the  
ruah was continually upon him1 and that 
even from his  childhood he had borne   
its terrors with a troubled mind1 till  
at last he  could bear himself no       
longer2 so he went to my grandsire1 with
 whom he  remained one whole night2 he  
then returned to his diocese1 where he  
shortly afterwards died1 in much renown 
for sanctity4    ,myself4--,what you say
 surprises me4  ,have you reason to     
suppose that  many of you are to be     
found amongst the priesthood8           
,abarbenel4--,not to suppose1 but to    
know it4  ,there are many such as ,i    
amongst the priesthood1 and not amongst 
the inferior priesthood either2  some of
 the most learned and famed of them in  
,spain have been of us1 or  of our blood
 at least1 and many of them at this day 
think as ,i do4  ,there  is one         
particular festival of the year at which
 four dignified  ecclesiastics are sure 

to visit me2 and then1 when all is made 
close and  secure1 and the fitting      
ceremonies have been gone through1 they 
sit down  upon the floor and curse4     
,myself4--,are you numerous in the large
 towns8    ,abarbenel4--,by no means2   
our places of abode are seldom the large
 towns2  we prefer the villages1 and    
rarely enter the large towns but on     
business4  ,indeed1 we are not a        
numerous people1 and there are few      
provinces of  ,spain which contain more 
than twenty families4  ,none of us are  
poor1 and  those among us who serve1 do 
so more from choice than necessity1 for 
by  serving each other we acquire       
different trades4  ,not unfrequently the
  time of service is that of courtship  
also1 and the servants eventually  marry
 the daughters of the house4    ,we     
continued in discourse the greater part 
of the night2 the next morning  ,i      
prepared to depart4  ,my companion1     
however1 advised me to remain where  ,i 
was for that day4  8,and if you respect 

my counsel10 said he1 8you will  not    
proceed farther in this manner4         
,to-night the diligence will arrive     
from ,estremadura1 on its way to        
,madrid4  ,deposit yourself therein2 it 
is  the safest and most speedy mode of  
travelling4  ,as for your animal1 ,i    
will myself purchase her4  ,my servant  
is here1 and has informed me that  she  
will be of service to us4  ,let us1     
therefore1 pass the day together  in    
communion1 like brothers1 and then      
proceed on our separate journeys40  ,we 
did pass the day together2 and when the 
diligence arrived ,i deposited  myself  
within1 and on the morning of the second
 day arrived at ,madrid4                
,,chapter ,,xii4      ,lodging at       
,madrid--,my ,hostess--,british         
,ambassador--,mendizabal--,baltasar--,du
ties of a ,national--,young ,blood--,the
  ,execution--,population of            
,madrid--,the ,higher ,orders--,the     
,lower ,classes--,the                   
,bull-fighter--,the ,crabbed ,gitano4   

,it was the commencement of ,february1  
#ahcg1 when ,i reached ,madrid4  ,after 
staying a few days at a posada1 ,i      
removed to a lodging which ,i engaged   
at ,no4 #c1 in the ,calle de la ,zarza1 
#afb a dark dirty street1 which1        
however1 was close to the ,puerta del   
,sol1 the most central point of         
,madrid1 into which four or five of the 
principal streets debouche1 and  which  
is1 at all times of the year1 the great 
place of assemblage for the  idlers of  
the capital1 poor or rich4    ,it was   
rather a singular house in which ,i had 
taken up my abode4  ,i  occupied the    
front part of the first floor2 my       
apartments consisted of an  immense     
parlour1 and a small chamber on one side
 in which ,i slept4  ,the  parlour1     
notwithstanding its size1 contained very
 little furniture3 a few  chairs1 a     
table1 and a species of sofa1           
constituted the whole4  ,it was  very   
cold and airy1 owing to the draughts    
which poured in from three  large       

windows1 and from sundry doors4  ,the   
mistress of the house1  attended by her 
two daughters1 ushered me in4  8,did you
 ever see a more  magnificent           
apartment80 demanded the former2 8is it 
not fit for a king's  son8  ,last winter
 it was occupied by the great ,general  
,espartero40 #afc    ,the hostess was an
 exceedingly fat woman1 a native of     
,valladolid1 in ,old  ,castile4  8,have 
you any other family10 ,i demanded1     
8besides these  daughters80  8,two      
sons10 she replied2 8one of them an     
officer in the  army1 father of this    
urchin10 pointing to a wicked but       
clever-looking boy  of about twelve1 who
 at that moment bounded into the room2  
8the other is  the most celebrated      
national in ,madrid4  ,he is a tailor by
 trade1 and his  name is ,baltasar4  ,he
 has much influence with the other      
nationals1 on  account of the liberality
 of his opinions1 and a word from him is
  sufficient to bring them all out armed
 and furious to the ,puerta del ,sol4   

,he is1 however1 at present confined to 
his bed1 for he is very  dissipated1 and
 fond of the company of bullfighters and
 people still  worse40    ,as my        
principal motive for visiting the       
,spanish capital was the hope of        
obtaining permission from the government
 to print the ,new ,testament in  the   
,castilian language1 for circulation in 
,spain1 ,i lost no time1 upon my        
arrival1 in taking what ,i considered to
 be the necessary steps4    ,i was an   
entire stranger at ,madrid1 and bore no 
letters of introduction  to any persons 
of influence who might have assisted me 
in this  undertaking1 so that1          
notwithstanding ,i entertained a hope of
 success1  relying on the assistance of 
the ,almighty1 this hope was not at all 
times  very vivid1 but was frequently   
overcast with the clouds of despondency4
    ,mendizabal #afd;a was at this time 
prime minister of ,spain1 and was       
considered as a man of almost unbounded 
power1 in whose hands were placed  the  

destinies of the country4  ,i therefore 
considered that if ,i could by  any     
means induce him to favour my views1 ,i 
should have no reason to fear           
interruption from other quarters1 and ,i
 determined upon applying to him4       
,before taking this step1 however1 ,i   
deemed it advisable to wait upon ,mr4   
,villiers1 #afd;b the ,british          
ambassador at ,madrid1 and1 with the    
freedom  permitted to a ,british        
subject1 to ask his advice in this      
affair4  ,i was  received with great    
kindness1 and enjoyed a conversation    
with him on  various subjects before ,i 
introduced the matter which ,i had most 
at  heart4  ,he said that if ,i wished  
for an interview with ,mendizabal he    
would endeavour to procure me one1 but1 
at the same time1 told me frankly  that 
he could not hope that any good would   
arise from it1 as he knew him  to be    
violently prejudiced against the        
,british and ,foreign ,bible ,society1  
and was far more likely to              

discountenance than encourage any       
efforts  which they might be disposed to
 make for introducing the ,gospel into  
,spain4  ,i1 however1 remained resolute 
in my desire to make the trial1 and     
before ,i left him obtained a letter of 
introduction to ,mendizabal4    ,early  
one morning ,i repaired to the palace1  
in a wing of which was the  office of   
the prime minister4  ,it was bitterly   
cold1 and the ,guadarrama1  of which    
there is a noble view from the palace   
plain1 was covered with  snow4  ,for at 
least three hours ,i remained shivering 
with cold in an  anteroom1 with several 
other aspirants for an interview with   
the man of  power4  ,at last his private
 secretary made his appearance1 and     
after  putting various questions to the 
others1 addressed himself to me1 asking 
who ,i was and what ,i wanted4  ,i told 
him that ,i was an ,englishman1 and  the
 bearer of a letter from the ,british   
,minister4  8,if you have no  objection1
 ,i will myself deliver it to his       

,excellency10 said he2  whereupon ,i    
handed it to him1 and he withdrew4      
,several individuals were  admitted     
before me2 at last1 however1 my own turn
 came1 and ,i was ushered  into the     
presence of ,mendizabal4    ,he stood   
behind a table covered with papers1 on  
which his eyes were  intently fixed4    
,he took not the slightest notice when  
,i entered1 and ,i  had leisure enough  
to survey him4  ,he was a huge athletic 
man1 somewhat  taller than myself1 who  
measure six feet two without my shoes4  
,his  complexion was florid1 his        
features fine and regular1 his nose     
quite  aquiline1 and his teeth          
splendidly white2 though scarcely fifty 
years of  age1 his hair was remarkably  
grey4  ,he was dressed in a rich morning
  gown1 with a gold chain round his     
neck1 and morocco slippers on his feet4 
,his secretary1 a fine                  
intellectual-looking man1 who1 as ,i was
  subsequently informed1 had acquired a 
name both in ,english and ,spanish      

literature1 #aff;a stood at one end of  
the table with papers in his  hands4    
,after ,i had been standing about a     
quarter of an hour1 ,mendizabal suddenly
  lifted up a pair of sharp eyes1 and   
fixed them upon me with a peculiarly    
scrutinizing glance4    8,i have seen a 
glance very similar to that amongst the 
,beni ,israel10  #aff;b thought ,i to   
myself4 4 4 4    ,my interview with him 
lasted nearly an hour4  ,some singular  
discourse  passed between us4  ,i found 
him1 as ,i had been informed1 a bitter  
enemy  to the ,bible ,society1 of which 
he spoke in terms of hatred and         
contempt2  and by no means a friend to  
the ,christian religion1 which ,i could 
easily  account for4  ,i was not        
discouraged1 however1 and pressed upon  
him the  matter which brought me        
thither1 and was eventually so far      
successful as  to obtain a promise1 that
 at the expiration of a few months1 when
 he  hoped the country would be in a    
more tranquil state1 ,i should be       

allowed  to print the ,scriptures4      
,as ,i was going away he said1 8,yours  
is not the first application ,i have    
had3 ever since ,i have held the reins  
of government ,i have been pestered  in 
this manner by ,english1 calling        
themselves ,evangelical ,christians1 who
  have of late come flocking over into  
,spain4  ,only last week a hunchbacked  
fellow found his way into my cabinet    
whilst ,i was engaged in important      
business1 and told me that ,christ was  
coming4 4 4 4  ,and now you have  made  
your appearance1 and almost persuaded me
 to embroil myself yet more  with the   
priesthood1 as if they did not abhor me 
enough already4  ,what a  strange       
infatuation is this which drives you    
over lands and waters with  ,bibles in  
your hands6  ,my good sir1 it is not    
,bibles we want1 but rather  guns and   
gunpowder to put the rebels down with1  
and1 above all1 money1  that we may pay 
the troops4  ,whenever you come with    
these three things  you shall have a    

hearty welcome2 if not1 we really can   
dispense with your  visits1 however     
great the honour40    ,myself4--,there  
will be no end to the troubles of this  
afflicted country  until the ,gospel    
have free circulation4                  
,mendizabal4--,i expected that answer1  
for ,i have not lived thirteen years  in
 ,england without forming some          
acquaintance with the phraseology of you
  good folks4  ,now1 now1 pray go2 you  
see how engaged ,i am4  ,come again     
whenever you please1 but let it not be  
within the next three months4    8,don  
,jorge10 said my hostess1 coming into my
 apartment one morning1  whilst ,i sat  
at breakfast1 with my feet upon the     
brasero1 8here is my  son ,baltasarito1 
the national4  ,he has risen from his   
bed1 and hearing  that there is an      
,englishman in the house1 he has begged 
me to introduce  him1 for he loves      
,englishmen on account of the liberality
 of their  opinions4  ,there he is2 what
 do you think of him80    ,i did not    

state to his mother what ,i thought2 it 
appeared to me1 however1  that she was  
quite right in calling him ,baltasarito1
 which is the  diminutive of ,baltasar1 
forasmuch as that ancient and sonorous  
name had  certainly never been bestowed 
on a more diminutive personage4  ,he    
might  measure about five feet one inch1
 though he was rather corpulent for his 
height2 his face looked yellow and      
sickly2 he had1 however1 a kind of      
fanfaronading air1 and his eyes1 which  
were of dark brown1 were both  sharp and
 brilliant4  ,his dress1 or rather his  
undress1 was somewhat  shabby3 he had a 
foraging cap on his head1 and in lieu of
 a morning gown  he wore a sentinel's   
old great-coat4    8,i am glad to make  
your acquaintance1 seor nacional10 said 
,i to him1  after his mother had        
departed and ,baltasar had taken his    
seat1 and of  course lighted a paper    
cigar #afh at the brasero4  8,i am glad 
to have  made your acquaintance1 more   
especially as your lady-mother has      

informed  me that you have great        
influence with the nationals4  ,i am a  
stranger in  ,spain1 and may want a     
friend2 fortune has been kind to me in  
procuring me  one who is a member of so 
powerful a body40    ,baltasar4--,yes1  
,i have a great deal to say with the    
other nationals2  there is none in      
,madrid better known than ,baltasar1 or 
more dreaded by  the ,carlists4  ,you   
say you may stand in need of a friend2  
there is no  fear of my failing you in  
any emergency4  ,both myself and any of 
the  other nationals will be proud to go
 out with you as padrinos1 should  you  
have any affair of honour on your hands4
  ,but why do you not become  one of us8
  ,we would gladly receive you into our 
body4    ,myself4--,is the duty of a    
national particularly hard8             
,baltasar4--,by no means4  ,we have to  
do duty about once every fifteen  days1 
and then there is occasionally a review1
 which does not last long4  ,no6 the    
duties of a national are by no means    

onerous1 and the privileges  are great4 
,i have seen three of my brother        
nationals walk up and down  the ,prado  
of a ,sunday1 with sticks in their      
hands1 cudgelling all the  suspicious   
characters2 and it is our common        
practice to scour the streets  at night1
 and then if we meet any person who is  
obnoxious to us1 we fall  upon him1 and 
with a knife or a bayonet generally     
leave him wallowing in  his blood on the
 pavement4  ,no one but a national would
 be permitted to  do that4              
,myself4--,of course none but persons of
 liberal opinions are to be found       
amongst the nationals8                  
,baltasar4--,would it were so6  ,there  
are some amongst us1 ,don ,jorge1  who  
are no better than they should be2 they 
are few1 however1 and for the  most part
 well known4  ,theirs is no pleasant    
life1 for when they mount  guard with   
the rest they are scouted1 and not      
unfrequently cudgelled4  ,the law       
compels all of a certain age either to  

serve in the army or to  become national
 soldiers1 on which account some of     
these ,godos are to  be found amongst   
us4    ,myself4--,are there many in     
,madrid of the ,carlist opinion8        
,baltasar4--,not among the young people2
 the greater part of the  ,madrilenian  
,carlists capable of bearing arms       
departed long ago to join  the ranks of 
the factious in the ,basque provinces4  
,those who remain are  for the most part
 greybeards and priests1 good for       
nothing but to  assemble in private     
coffee-houses1 and to prate treason     
together4  ,let  them prate1 ,don       
,jorge2 let them prate2 the destinies of
 ,spain do not  depend on the wishes of 
ojalateros and pasteleros1 #afi but on  
the  hands of stout1 gallant nationals1 
like myself and friends1 ,don ,jorge4   
,myself4--,i am sorry to learn from your
 lady-mother that you are  strangely    
dissipated4    ,baltasar4--,ho1 ho1 ,don
 ,jorge1 she has told you that1 has she8
  ,what  would you have1 ,don ,jorge8   

,i am young1 and young blood will have  
its  course4  ,i am called ,baltasar the
 gay by all the other nationals1 and it 
is on account of my gaiety and the      
liberality of my opinions that ,i am so 
popular among them4  ,when ,i mount     
guard ,i invariably carry my guitar with
  me1 and then there is sure to be a    
funcion at the guard-house4  ,we send   
for wine1 ,don ,jorge1 and the nationals
 become wild1 ,don ,jorge1  dancing and 
drinking through the night1 whilst      
,baltasarito strums the  guitar and     
sings them songs of ,germana3-- #agj;a  
8,una rom sin pach      ,le pen  su     
chindomar10 #agj;b etc41 etc4    ,that  
is ,gitano1 ,don ,jorge2 ,i learnt it   
from the toreros of  ,andalusia1 who all
 speak ,gitano1 and are mostly of gypsy 
blood4  ,i  learnt it from them2 they   
are all friends of mine1 ,montes1       
,sevilla1 and  ,poquito ,pan4 #agj;c  ,i
 never miss a funcion of bulls1 ,don    
,jorge4  ,baltasar is sure to be there  
with his amiga4  ,don ,jorge1 there are 

no  bull-funcions in the winter1 or ,i  
would carry you to one1 but happily     
to-morrow there is an execution1 a      
funcion de la horca2 #aga and there  we 
will go1 ,don ,jorge4    ,we did go to  
see this execution1 which ,i shall long 
remember4  ,the  criminals were two     
young men1 brothers2 they suffered for a
 most  atrocious murder1 having in the  
dead of night broken open the house of  
an  aged man1 whom they put to death1   
and whose property they stole4          
,criminals in ,spain are not hanged as  
they are in ,england1 or guillotined  as
 in ,france1 but strangled upon a wooden
 stage4  ,they sit down on a kind  of   
chair with a post behind1 to which is   
affixed an iron collar with a  screw2   
this iron collar is made to clasp the   
neck of the prisoner1 and on  a certain 
signal it is drawn tighter and tighter  
by means of the screw1  until life      
becomes extinct4  ,after we had waited  
amongst the assembled  multitude a      
considerable time1 the first of the     

culprits appeared2 he was  mounted on an
 ass without saddle or stirrups1 his    
legs being allowed to  dangle nearly to 
the ground4  ,he was dressed in yellow1 
sulphur-coloured  robes1 with a         
high-peaked conical red hat on his head1
 which was shaven4  ,between his hands  
he held a parchment1 on which was       
written something--,i  believe the      
confession of faith4  ,two priests led  
the animal by the  bridle2 two others   
walked on either side1 chanting         
litanies1 amongst  which ,i             
distinguished the words of heavenly     
peace and tranquillity1 for  the culprit
 had been reconciled to the church1 had 
confessed and received  absolution1 and 
had been promised admission to heaven4  
,he did not  exhibit the least symptom  
of fear1 but dismounted from the animal 
and was  led1 not supported1 up the     
scaffold1 where he was placed on the    
chair1  and the fatal collar put round  
his neck4  ,one of the priests then in a
  loud voice commenced saying the       

,belief1 and the culprit repeated the   
words after him4  ,on a sudden1 the     
executioner1 who stood behind1          
commenced turning the screw1 which was  
of prodigious force1 and the  wretched  
man was almost instantly a corpse2 but1 
as the screw went round1  the priest    
began to shout1 8pax et misericordia et 
tranquillitas10  #agb and still as he   
shouted1 his voice became louder and    
louder1 till  the lofty walls of ,madrid
 rang with it4  ,then stooping down1 he 
placed  his mouth close to the culprit's
 ear1 still shouting1 just as if he     
would  pursue the spirit through its    
course to eternity1 cheering it on its  
way4  ,the effect was tremendous4  ,i   
myself was so excited that ,i           
involuntarily  shouted1 8,misericordia10
 and so did many others4  ,god was not  
thought  of2 ,christ was not thought of2
 only the priest was thought of1 for he 
seemed at that moment to be the first   
being in existence1 and to have the     
power of opening and shutting the gates 

of heaven or of hell1 just as he  should
 think proper--a striking instance of   
the successful working of the  ,popish  
system1 whose grand aim has ever been to
 keep people's minds as  far as possible
 from ,god1 and to centre their hopes   
and fears in the  priesthood4  ,the     
execution of the second culprit was     
precisely similar2  he ascended the     
scaffold a few minutes after his brother
 had breathed his  last4    ,i have     
visited most of the principal capitals  
of the world1 but upon the  whole none  
has ever so interested me as this city  
of ,madrid1 in which ,i  now found      
myself4  ,i will not dwell upon its     
streets1 its edifices1 its  public      
squares1 its fountains1 though some of  
these are remarkable  enough2 but       
,petersburg has finer streets1 ,paris   
and ,edinburgh more  stately edifices1  
,london far nobler squares1 whilst      
,shiraz can boast of  more costly       
fountains1 though not cooler waters4    
,but the population6  ,within a mud wall

 scarcely one league and a half in      
circuit1 are  contained two hundred     
thousand human beings1 certainly forming
 the most  extraordinary vital mass to  
be found in the entire world2 and be it 
always remembered that this mass is     
strictly ,spanish4  ,the population of  
,constantinople is extraordinary enough1
 but to form it twenty nations  have    
contributed--,greeks1 ,armenians1       
,persians1 ,poles1 ,jews1 the latter1   
by-the-by1 of ,spanish origin1 and      
speaking amongst themselves the old     
,spanish language2 but the huge         
population of ,madrid1 with the         
exception  of a sprinkling of           
foreigners1 chiefly ,french tailors1    
glove-makers1 and  perruquiers1 is      
strictly ,spanish1 though a considerable
 portion are not  natives of the place4 
,here are no colonies of ,germans1 as at
 ,saint  ,petersburg2 no ,english       
factories1 as at ,lisbon2 no multitudes 
of insolent  ,yankees lounging through  
the streets1 as at the ,havannah1 with  

an air  which seems to say1 8,the land  
is our own whenever we choose to take   
it20  but a population which1 however   
strange and wild1 and composed of       
various  elements1 is ,spanish1 and will
 remain so as long as the city itself   
shall  exist4  ,hail1 ye aguadores of   
,asturia6 who1 in your dress of coarse  
duffel and leathern skull-caps1 are seen
 seated in hundreds by the  fountain    
sides1 upon your empty water-casks1 or  
staggering with them  filled to the     
topmost stories of lofty houses4  ,hail1
 ye caleseros of  ,valencia6 who1       
lolling lazily against your vehicles1   
rasp tobacco for  your paper cigars     
whilst waiting for a fare4  ,hail to    
you1 beggars of ,la  ,mancha6 men and   
women1 who1 wrapped in coarse blankets1 
demand charity  indifferently at the    
gate of the palace or the prison4  ,hail
 to you1  valets from the mountains1    
mayordomos and secretaries from ,biscay 
and  ,guipuzcoa1 toreros from           
,andalusia1 reposteros from ,galicia1   

shopkeepers from ,catalonia6  ,hail to  
ye1 ,castilians1 ,estremenians1 and     
,aragonese1 of whatever calling6  ,and  
lastly1 genuine sons of the capital1    
rabble of ,madrid1 ye twenty thousand   
manolos1 #agd;a whose terrible  knives1 
on the second morning of ,may1 #agd;b   
worked such grim havoc  amongst the     
legions of ,murat6    ,and the higher   
orders--the ladies and gentlemen1 the   
cavaliers and  seoras--shall ,i pass    
them by in silence8  ,the truth is ,i   
have little to  say about them2 ,i      
mingled but little in their society1 and
 what ,i saw of  them by no means tended
 to exalt them in my imagination4  ,i am
 not one of  those who1 wherever they   
go1 make it a constant practice to      
disparage the  higher orders1 and to    
exalt the populace at their expense4    
,there are  many capitals in which the  
high aristocracy1 the lords and ladies1 
the  sons and daughters of nobility1    
constitute the most remarkable and the  
most interesting part of the population4

  ,this is the case at ,vienna1 and     
more especially at ,london4  ,who can   
rival the ,english aristocrat in lofty  
stature1 in dignified bearing1 in       
strength of hand1 and valour of heart8  
,who rides a nobler horse8  ,who has a  
firmer seat8  ,and who more lovely  than
 his wife1 or sister1 or daughter8  ,but
 with respect to the ,spanish           
aristocracy1 the ladies and gentlemen1  
the cavaliers and seoras1 ,i  believe   
the less that is said of them on the    
points to which ,i have just  alluded   
the better4  ,i confess1 however1 that  
,i know little about them2  they have1  
perhaps1 their admirers1 and to the pens
 of such ,i leave their  panegyric4  ,le
 ,sage has described them as they were  
nearly two centuries  ago4  ,his        
description is anything but captivating1
 and ,i do not think  that they have    
improved since the period of the        
sketches of the immortal  ,frenchman4   
,i would sooner talk of the lower class1
 not only of ,madrid1  but of all       

,spain4  ,the ,spaniard of the lower    
class has much more interest  for me1   
whether manolo1 labourer1 or muleteer4  
,he is not a common  being2 he is an    
extraordinary man4  ,he has not1 it is  
true1 the  amiability and generosity of 
the ,russian mujik1 who will give his   
only  rouble rather than the stranger   
shall want2 nor his placid courage1     
which renders him insensible to fear1   
and1 at the command of his ,tsar1  sends
 him singing to certain death4 #age     
,there is more hardness and  less       
self-devotion in the disposition of the 
,spaniard2 he possesses1  however1 a    
spirit of proud independence1 which it  
is impossible but to  admire4  ,he is   
ignorant1 of course2 but it is singular1
 that ,i have  invariably found amongst 
the low and slightly educated classes   
far more  liberality of sentiment than  
amongst the upper4  ,it has long been   
the  fashion to talk of the bigotry of  
the ,spaniards1 and their mean jealousy 
of foreigners4  ,this is true to a      

certain extent2 but it chiefly holds    
good with respect to the upper classes4 
,if foreign valour or talent has  never 
received its proper meed in ,spain1 the 
great body of the ,spaniards  are       
certainly not in fault4  ,i have heard  
,wellington calumniated in this  proud  
scene of his triumphs1 but never by the 
old soldiers of ,aragon and  the        
,asturias1 who assisted to vanquish the 
,french at ,salamanca and the           
,pyrenees4  ,i have heard the manner of 
riding of an ,english jockey            
criticized1 but it was by the idiotic   
heir of ,medina ,celi1 and not by a     
picador of the ,madrilenian bull-ring4  
,apropos of bull-fighters3--,shortly    
after my arrival1 ,i one day entered a  
low tavern in a neighbourhood notorious 
for robbery and murder1 and in  which   
for the last two hours ,i had been      
wandering on a voyage of  discovery4  ,i
 was fatigued1 and required refreshment4
  ,i found the place  thronged with     
people1 who had all the appearance of   

ruffians4  ,i saluted  them1 upon which 
they made way for me to the bar1 taking 
off their  sombreros with great         
ceremony4  ,i emptied a glass of val de 
peas1  and was about to pay for it and  
depart1 when a horrible-looking fellow1 
dressed in a buff jerkin1 leather       
breeches1 and jackboots1 which came     
halfway up his thighs1 and having on his
 head a white hat1 the rims of  which   
were at least a yard and a half in      
circumference1 pushed through  the      
crowd1 and confronting me1 roared3--    
8,otra copita6 vamos ,inglesito3 ,otra  
copita60 #agf    8,thank you1 my good   
sir1 you are very kind4  ,you appear to 
know me1 but ,i  have not the honour of 
knowing you40    8,not know me60 replied
 the being4  8,i am ,sevilla1 the       
torero4  ,i know  you well2 you are the 
friend of ,baltasarito1 the national1   
who is a  friend of mine1 and a very    
good subject40    ,then turning to the  
company1 he said in a sonorous tone1    
laying a strong  emphasis on the last   

syllable of every word1 according to the
 custom of  the gente rufianesca        
throughout ,spain--    8,cavaliers1 and 
strong men1 this cavalier is the friend 
of a friend of  mine4  ,es mucho hombre4
 #agg;a  ,there is none like him in     
,spain4  ,he  speaks the crabbed        
,gitano1 though he is an ,inglesito40   
8,we do not believe it10 replied several
 grave voices4  8,it is not  possible40 
8,it is not possible1 say you8  ,i tell 
you it is4  ,come forward1 ,balseiro1   
you who have been in prison all your    
life1 and are always boasting that  you 
can speak the crabbed ,gitano1 though ,i
 say you know nothing of  it--come      
forward and speak to his worship in the 
crabbed ,gitano40    ,a low1 slight1 but
 active figure stepped forward4  ,he was
 in his  shirt-sleeves1 and wore a      
montero cap2 #agg;b his features were   
handsome1 but they were those of a      
demon4    ,he spoke a few words in the  
broken gypsy slang of the prison1       
inquiring  of me whether ,i had ever    

been in the condemned cell1 and whether 
,i knew  what a ,gitana #agg;c was4     
8,vamos ,inglesito10 shouted ,sevilla1  
in a voice of thunder2 8answer the  monr
 in the crabbed ,gitano40    ,i answered
 the robber1 for such he was1 and one   
too whose name will live  for many a    
year in the ruffian histories of        
,madrid2 ,i answered him in a  speech of
 some length1 in the dialect of the     
,estremenian gypsies4    8,i believe it 
is the crabbed ,gitano10 muttered       
,balseiro4  8,it is either  that or     
,english1 for ,i understand not a word  
of it40    8,did ,i not say to you10    
cried the bull-fighter1 8that you knew  
nothing of  the crabbed ,gitano8  ,but  
this ,inglesito does4  ,i understood all
 he  said4  ,vaya1 there is none like   
him for the crabbed ,gitano4  ,he is a  
good ginete1 too2 next to myself1 there 
is none like him1 only he rides  with   
stirrup leathers too short4 #agh        
,inglesito1 if you have need of  money1 
,i will lend you my purse4  ,all ,i have

 is at your service1 and that  is not a 
little2 ,i have just gained four        
thousand chuls by the  lottery4         
,courage1 ,englishman6  ,another cup4   
,i will pay all--,i1 ,sevilla60    ,and 
he clapped his hand repeatedly on his   
breast1 reiterating1 8,i1  ,sevilla6    
,i--0          ,,chapter ,,xiii4        
,intrigues at ,court--,quesada and      
,galiano--,dissolution of the           
,cortes--,the  ,secretary--,aragonese   
,pertinacity--,the ,council of          
,trent--,the ,asturian--,the  ,three    
,thieves--,benedict ,mol--,the ,men of  
,lucerne--,the ,treasure4    ,mendizabal
 had told me to call upon him again at  
the end of three months1  giving me     
hopes that he would not then oppose     
himself to the publication  of the ,new 
,testament2 before1 however1 the three  
months had elapsed1 he  had fallen into 
disgrace1 and had ceased to be prime    
minister4    ,an intrigue had been      
formed against him1 at the head of which
 were two  quondam friends of his1 and  

fellow-townsmen1 ,gaditanians1          
,isturitz1 and  ,alcala ,galiano4  ,both
 of them had been egregious liberals in 
their day1  and indeed principal members
 of those ,cortes which1 on the         
,angoulme  invasion1 had hurried        
,ferdinand from ,madrid to ,cadiz1 and  
kept him  prisoner there until that     
impregnable town thought proper to      
surrender1  and both of them had been   
subsequently refugees in ,england1 where
 they  had spent a considerable number  
of years4    ,these gentlemen1 however1 
finding themselves about this time      
exceedingly  poor1 and not seeing any   
immediate prospect of advantage from    
supporting  ,mendizabal--considering    
themselves1 moreover1 quite as good men 
as he1 and  as capable of governing     
,spain in the present                   
emergency--determined to  secede from   
the party of their friend1 whom they had
 hitherto supported1  and to set up for 
themselves4    ,they therefore formed an
 opposition to ,mendizabal in the       

,cortes2 the  members of this opposition
 assumed the name of moderados1 in      
contradistinction to ,mendizabal and his
 followers1 who were  ultra-liberals4   
,the moderados were encouraged by the   
,queen ,regent  ,christina1 who aimed at
 a little more power than the liberals  
were  disposed to allow her1 and who had
 a personal dislike to the minister4    
,they were likewise encouraged by       
,cordova1 #ahj;a who at that time       
commanded the army1 and was displeased  
with ,mendizabal1 inasmuch as the       
latter did not supply the pecuniary     
demands of the general with  sufficient 
alacrity1 though it is said that the    
greater part of what was  sent for the  
payment of the troops was not devoted to
 that purpose1 but  was invested in the 
,french funds in the name and for the   
use and behoof  of the said ,cordova4   
,it is1 however1 by no means my         
intention to write an account of the    
political events which were passing     
around me at this period2 suffice it  to

 say that ,mendizabal1 finding himself  
thwarted in all his projects by  the    
,regent and the general1 the former of  
whom would adopt no measure  which he   
recommended1 whilst the latter remained 
inactive1 and refused to  engage the    
enemy1 which by this time had recovered 
from the check caused  by the death of  
,zumalacarregui1 #ahj;b and was making  
considerable  progress1 resigned1 and   
left the field1 for the time1 open to   
his  adversaries1 though he possessed an
 immense majority in the ,cortes1 and   
had the voice of the nation1 at least   
the liberal part of it1 in his  favour4 
,thereupon #aha;a ,isturitz #aha;b      
became head of the cabinet1 ,galiano    
minister of marine1 and a certain ,duke 
of ,rivas minister of the interior4     
,these were the heads of the moderado   
government2 but as they were by no      
means popular at ,madrid1 and feared the
 nationals1 they associated with        
themselves one who hated the latter     
body1 and feared nothing1 a man of  the 

name of ,quesada--a very stupid         
individual1 but a great fighter1 who1   
at one period of his life1 had commanded
 a legion or body of men called  the    
,army of the ,faith1 whose exploits1    
both on the ,french and ,spanish  side  
of the ,pyrenees1 are too well known to 
require recapitulation4  ,this  person  
was made captain-general of ,madrid4    
#aha;c    ,by far the most clever member
 of this government was ,galiano1 whose 
acquaintance ,i had formed shortly after
 my arrival4  ,he was a man of          
considerable literature1 and            
particularly well versed in that of his 
own  country4  ,he was1 moreover1 a     
fluent1 elegant1 and forcible speaker1  
and  was to the moderado party within   
the ,cortes what ,quesada was without1  
namely1 their horses and chariots4  ,why
 he was made minister of marine is      
difficult to say1 as ,spain did not     
possess any2 perhaps1 however1 from  his
 knowledge of the ,english language1    
which he spoke and wrote nearly as  well

 as his own tongue1 having1 indeed1     
during his sojourn in ,england1  chiefly
 supported himself by writing for       
reviews and journals1--an  honourable   
occupation1 but to which few foreign    
exiles in ,england would  be qualified  
to devote themselves4    ,he was a very 
small and irritable man1 and a bitter   
enemy to every person  who stood in the 
way of his advancement4  ,he hated      
,mendizabal with  undisguised rancour1  
and never spoke of him but in terms of  
unmeasured  contempt4  8,i am afraid    
that ,i shall have some difficulty in   
inducing  ,mendizabal to give me        
permission to print the ,testament10    
said ,i to him  one day4  8,mendizabal  
is a jackass10 replied ,galiano4        
8,caligula made his  horse consul1 which
 ,i suppose induced ,lord --- to send   
over this huge  burro of the ,stock     
,exchange to be our minister40    ,it   
would be very ungrateful1 on my part1   
were ,i not to confess my great         
obligations to ,galiano1 who assisted me

 to the utmost of his power in the      
business which had brought me to ,spain4
  ,shortly after the ministry was       
formed1 ,i went to him and said1 8that  
now or never was the time to make  an   
effort in my behalf40  8,i will do so10 
said he1 in a waspish tone2 for  he     
always spoke waspishly whether to friend
 or foe2 8but you must have  patience   
for a few days2 we are very much        
occupied at present4  ,we have  been    
out-voted in the ,cortes1 and this      
afternoon we intend to dissolve  them4  
,it is believed that the rascals will   
refuse to depart1 but ,quesada  will    
stand at the door ready to turn them    
out1 should they prove  refractory4     
,come along1 and you will perhaps see a 
funcion40    ,after an hour's debate1   
the ,cortes were dissolved without it   
being  necessary to call in the aid of  
the redoubtable ,quesada1 and ,galiano  
forthwith gave me a letter to his       
colleague1 the ,duke of ,rivas1 in whose
  department he told me was vested the  

power either of giving or refusing  the 
permission to print the book in         
question4  ,the duke was a very         
handsome young man1 of about thirty1 an 
,andalusian by birth1 like his two      
colleagues4  ,he had published several  
works--tragedies1 ,i believe--and       
enjoyed a certain kind of literary      
reputation4  ,he received me with the   
greatest affability2 and having heard   
what ,i had to say1 he replied with  a  
most captivating bow1 and a genuine     
,andalusian grimace3 8,go to my         
secretary2 go to my secretary--el har   
por usted el gusto40 #ahc  ,so ,i  went 
to the secretary1 whose name was        
,oliban1 an ,aragonese1 who was not     
handsome1 and whose manners were neither
 elegant nor affable4  8,you want       
permission to print the ,testament80    
8,i do10 said ,i4  8,and you have come  
to his ,excellency about it80 continued 
,oliban4  8,very true10 ,i replied4  8,i
 suppose you intend to print it without 
notes80  8,yes40  8,then his            

,excellency cannot give you permission10
 said the ,aragonese secretary4  8,it   
was determined by the ,council of ,trent
 that no part of the ,scripture  should 
be printed in any ,christian country    
without the notes of the  church40      
8,how many years was that ago80 ,i      
demanded4  8,i do not know how  many    
years ago it was10 said ,oliban2 8but   
such was the decree of the  ,council of 
,trent40  8,is ,spain at present        
governed according to the  decrees of   
the ,council of ,trent80 ,i inquired4   
8,in some points she is10  answered the 
,aragonese1 8and this is one4  ,but tell
 me1 who are you8  ,are  you known to   
the ,british minister80  8,oh yes1 and  
he takes a great  interest in the       
matter40  8,does he80 said ,oliban2     
8that indeed alters the  case3 if you   
can show me that his ,excellency takes  
an interest in this  business1 ,i       
certainly shall not oppose myself to    
it40    ,the ,british minister performed
 all ,i could wish1 and much more than  

,i  could expect4  ,he had an interview 
with the ,duke of ,rivas1 with whom he  
had much discourse upon my affair3 the  
duke was all smiles and courtesy4  ,he  
moreover wrote a private letter to the  
duke1 which he advised me to  present   
when ,i next paid him a visit2 and1 to  
crown all1 he wrote a  letter directed  
to myself1 in which he did me the honour
 to say1 that he  had a regard for me1  
and that nothing would afford him       
greater pleasure  than to hear that ,i  
had obtained the permission which ,i was
 seeking4  ,so  ,i went to the duke1 and
 delivered the letter4  ,he was ten     
times more kind  and affable than       
before3 he read the letter1 smiled most 
sweetly1 and  then1 as if seized with   
sudden enthusiasm1 he extended his arms 
in a  manner almost theatrical1         
exclaiming1 8,al secretario1 el har por 
usted el gusto40  ,away ,i hurried to   
the secretary1 who received me with  all
 the coolness of an icicle4  ,i related 
to him the words of his  principal1 and 

then put into his hand the letter of the
 ,british minister  to myself4  ,the    
secretary read it very deliberately1 and
 then said that  it was evident his     
,excellency 8did take an interest in the
 matter40  ,he  then asked me my name1  
and1 taking a sheet of paper1 sat down  
as if for  the purpose of writing the   
permission4  ,i was in ecstasy4  ,all of
 a  sudden1 however1 he stopped1 lifted 
up his head1 seemed to consider a       
moment1 and then1 putting his pen behind
 his ear1 he said1 8,amongst the        
decrees of the ,council of ,trent is one
 to the effect 4 4 40    8,oh dear60    
said ,i4    8,a singular person is this 
,oliban10 said ,i to ,galiano2 8you     
cannot  imagine what trouble he gives   
me2 he is continually talking about the 
,council of ,trent40    8,i wish he was 
in the ,trent up to the middle10 said   
,galiano1 who1 as ,i  have observed     
already1 spoke excellent ,english2 8,i  
wish he was there for  talking such     
nonsense4  ,however10 said he1 8we must 

not offend ,oliban--he  is one of us1   
and has done us much service2 he is1    
moreover1 a very  clever man1 but he is 
an ,aragonese1 and when one of that     
nation once gets  an idea into his head1
 it is the most difficult thing in the  
world to  dislodge it4  ,however1 we    
will go to him4  ,he is an old friend of
 mine1  and ,i have no doubt but that we
 shall be able to make him listen to    
reason40    ,so the next day ,i called  
upon ,galiano1 at his marine or         
admiralty office  7what shall ,i call   
it871 and from thence we proceeded to   
the bureau of  the interior1 a          
magnificent edifice1 which had formerly 
been the casa  of the ,inquisition1     
where we had an interview with ,oliban1 
whom ,galiano  took aside to the window1
 and there held with him a long         
conversation1  which1 as they spoke in  
whispers1 and the room was immensely    
large1 ,i did  not hear4  ,at length    
,galiano came to me1 and said1 8,there  
is some  difficulty with respect to this

 business of yours1 but ,i have told    
,oliban  that you are a friend of mine1 
and he says that that is sufficient2    
remain with him now1 and he will do     
anything to oblige you4  ,your affair   
is settled--farewell40  ,whereupon he   
departed1 and ,i remained with ,oliban1 
who proceeded forthwith to write        
something1 which having concluded1 he   
took out a box of cigars1 and having    
lighted one and offered me another1     
which ,i declined1 as ,i do not smoke1  
he placed his feet against the  table1  
and thus proceeded to address me1       
speaking in the ,french language4       
8,it is with great pleasure that ,i see 
you in this capital1 and1 ,i may  say1  
upon this business4  ,i consider it a   
disgrace to ,spain that there is  no    
edition of the ,gospel in circulation1  
at least such a one as would be  within 
the reach of all classes of society1 the
 highest or poorest2 one  unencumbered  
with notes and commentaries1 human      
devices1 swelling it to  an unwieldy    

bulk4  ,i have no doubt that such an    
edition as you propose to  print would  
have a most beneficial influence on the 
minds of the people1  who1 between      
ourselves1 know nothing of pure         
religion2 how should they8  seeing that 
the ,gospel has always been sedulously  
kept from them1 just as  if civilization
 could exist where the light of the     
,gospel beameth not4  ,the moral        
regeneration of ,spain depends upon the 
free circulation of the  ,scriptures2 to
 which alone ,england1 your own happy   
country1 is indebted  for its high state
 of civilization and the unmatched      
prosperity which it  at present enjoys4 
,all this ,i admit1 in fact reason      
compels me to do so1  but--0    8,now   
for it10 thought ,i4    8,bu--0  ,and   
then he began to talk once more of the  
wearisome ,council of  ,trent and ,i    
found that his writing in the paper1 the
 offer of the cigar1  and the long and  
prosy harangue were--what shall ,i call 
it8--mere 4  #ahf    ,by this time the  

spring was far advanced2 the sides1     
though not the tops1  of the ,guadarrama
 hills had long since lost their snows2 
the trees of the  ,prado had donned     
their full foliage1 and all the campia  
in the  neighbourhood of ,madrid smiled 
and was happy4  ,the summer heats had   
not  commenced1 and the weather was     
truly delicious4    ,towards the west1  
at the foot of the hill on which stands 
,madrid1 is a  canal running parallel   
with the ,manzanares for some leagues1  
from which  it is separated by pleasant 
and fertile meadows4  ,the banks of this
  canal1 which was begun by ,carlos     
,tercero #ahg and has never been        
completed1 are planted with beautiful   
trees1 and form the most delightful     
walk in the neighbourhood of the        
capital4  ,here ,i would loiter for     
hours1  looking at the shoals of gold   
and silver fish which basked on the     
surface  of the green sunny waters1 or  
listening1 not to the warbling of       
birds--for  ,spain is not the land of   

feathered choristers--but to the prattle
 of the  narangero1 or man who sold     
oranges and water by a little deserted  
water-tower just opposite the wooden    
bridge that crosses the canal1 which    
situation he had chosen as favourable   
for his trade1 and there had placed  his
 stall4  ,he was an ,asturian by birth1 
about fifty years of age1 and  about    
five feet high4  ,as ,i purchased freely
 of his fruit1 he soon  conceived a     
great friendship for me1 and told me his
 history2 it  contained1 however1       
nothing very remarkable1 the leading    
incident being  an adventure which had  
befallen him amidst the mountains of    
,granada1  where1 falling into the hands
 of certain gypsies1 they stripped him  
naked1 and then dismissed him with a    
sound cudgelling4  8,i have wandered    
throughout ,spain10 said he1 8and ,i    
have come to the conclusion that there  
are but two places worth living in1     
,malaga and ,madrid4  ,at ,malaga       
everything is very cheap1 and there is  

such an abundance of fish1 that ,i  have
 frequently seen them piled in heaps on 
the seashore2 and as for  ,madrid1 money
 is always stirring at the ,corte1 and  
,i never go supperless  to bed4  ,my    
only care is to sell my oranges1 and my 
only hope that when ,i  die ,i shall be 
buried yonder40  ,and he pointed across 
the ,manzanares1  where1 on the         
declivity of a gentle hill1 at about a  
league's distance1  shone brightly in   
the sunshine the white walls of the     
,campo ,santo1 or  common burying-ground
 of ,madrid4    ,he was a fellow of     
infinite drollery1 and1 though he could 
scarcely read  or write1 by no means    
ignorant of the ways of the world3 his  
knowledge of  individuals was curious   
and extensive1 few people passing his   
stall with  whose names1 character1 and 
history he was not acquainted4  8,these 
two  gentry10 said he1 pointing to a    
magnificently dressed cavalier and lady1
  who had dismounted from a carriage1   
and arm-in-arm were coming across the   

wooden bridge1 followed by two          
attendants2 8those gentry are the       
,infante ,francisco ,paulo1 and his wife
 the ,neapolitana1 sister of our        
,christina4  ,he is a very good subject1
 but as for his wife--vaya--the  veriest
 scold in ,madrid2 she can say carrajo  
with the most  ill-conditioned carrier  
of ,la ,mancha1 giving the true emphasis
 and  genuine pronunciation4  ,don't    
take off your hat to her1 amigo--she has
  neither formality nor politeness2 ,i  
once saluted her1 and she took no  more 
notice of me than if ,i had not been    
what ,i am1 an ,asturian and a          
gentleman1 of better blood than herself4
  ,good day1 ,seor ,don  ,francisco4    
,que tal4 #ahh  ,very fine weather      
this--vaya su merced con  ,dios4  ,those
 three fellows1 who just stopped to     
drink water1 are great  thieves1 true   
sons of the prison4  ,i am always civil 
to them1 for it  would not do to be on  
ill terms2 they pay me or not1 just as  
they think  proper4  ,i have been in    

some trouble on their account3 about a  
year ago  they robbed a man a little    
farther on beyond the second bridge4    
,by the  way1 ,i counsel you1 brother1  
not to go there1 as ,i believe you often
 do2  it is a dangerous place4  ,they   
robbed a gentleman and ill-treated him1 
but his brother1 who was an escribano1  
was soon upon their trail1 and  had them
 arrested2 but he wanted some one to    
identify them1 and it  chanced that they
 had stopped to drink water at my stall1
 just as they  did now4  ,this the      
escribano heard of1 and forthwith had me
 away to  prison to confront me with    
them4  ,i knew them well enough1 but ,i 
had  learnt in my travels when to close 
my eyes and when to open them2 so ,i    
told the escribano that ,i could not say
 that ,i had ever seen them  before4    
,he was in a great rage1 and threatened 
to imprison me2 ,i told  him he might1  
and that ,i cared not4  ,vaya1 ,i was   
not going to expose  myself to the      
resentment of those three and to that of

 their friends2 ,i  live too near the   
,hay ,market for that4  ,good day1 my   
young masters4  ,murcian oranges1 as you
 see2 the genuine dragon's blood4       
,water sweet and  cold4  ,those two boys
 are the children of ,gabiria1          
comptroller of the  queen's household1  
and the richest man in ,madrid2 they are
 nice boys1 and  buy much fruit4  ,it is
 said their father loves them more than 
all his  possessions4  ,the old woman   
who is lying beneath yon tree is the    
,tia  ,lucilla2 she has committed       
murders1 and as she owes me money1 ,i   
hope one  day to see her executed4      
,this man was of the ,walloon           
guard--,seor ,don  ,benito ,mol1 how do 
you do80    ,this last-named personage  
instantly engrossed my attention4  ,he  
was a  bulky old man1 somewhat above the
 middle height1 with white hair and     
ruddy features2 his eyes were large and 
blue1 and1 whenever he fixed them  on   
any one's countenance1 were full of an  
expression of great eagerness1  as if he

 were expecting the communication of    
some important tidings4  ,he  was       
dressed commonly enough in a jacket and 
trousers of coarse cloth of a  russet   
colour2 on his head was an immense      
sombrero1 the brim of which  had been   
much cut and mutilated1 so as in some   
places to resemble the  jags or         
denticles of a saw4  ,he returned the   
salutation of the  orange-man1 and      
bowing to me1 forthwith produced two    
scented wash-balls1  which he offered   
for sale1 in a rough dissonant jargon1  
intended for  ,spanish1 but which seemed
 more like the ,valencian or ,catalan4  
,upon my asking him who he was1 the     
following conversation ensued between   
us3--    8,i am a ,swiss of ,lucerne1   
,benedict ,mol #aij by name1 once a     
soldier in  the ,walloon guard1 and now 
a soap-boiler1 at your service40        
8,you speak the language of ,spain very 
imperfectly10 said ,i2 8how long  have  
you been in the country80               
8,forty-five years10 replied ,benedict2 

8but when the guard was broken up1  ,i  
went to ,minorca1 where ,i lost the     
,spanish language without acquiring  the
 ,catalan40    8,you have been a soldier
 of the king of ,spain10 said ,i2 8how  
did you like  the service80    8,not so 
well1 but that ,i should have been glad 
to leave it forty years  ago2 the pay   
was bad1 and the treatment worse4  ,i   
will now speak ,swiss to  you1 for1 if  
,i am not much mistaken1 you are a      
,german man1 and understand  the speech 
of ,lucerne4  ,i should soon have       
deserted from the service of  ,spain1 as
 ,i did from that of the ,pope1 whose   
soldier ,i was in my early  youth1      
before ,i came here2 but ,i had married 
a woman of ,minorca1 by whom  ,i had two
 children2 it was this that detained me 
in those parts so long2  before1        
however1 ,i left ,minorca my wife died1 
and as for my children1 one  went east1 
the other west1 and ,i know not what    
became of them4  ,i intend  shortly to  
return to ,lucerne1 and live there like 

a duke40    8,have you1 then1 realized a
 large capital in ,spain80 said ,i1     
glancing at  his hat and the rest of his
 apparel4    8,not a cuart1 #aia not a  
cuart2 these two wash-balls are all that
 ,i  possess40    8,perhaps you are the 
son of good parents1 and have lands and 
money in  your own country wherewith to 
support yourself40    8,not a heller1   
not a heller2 my father was hangman of  
,lucerne1 and  when he died1 his body   
was seized to pay his debts40    8,then1
 doubtless10 said ,i1 8you intend to ply
 your trade of soap-boiling  at         
,lucerne4  ,you are right1 my friend2 ,i
 know of no occupation more  honourable 
or useful40    8,i have no thoughts of  
plying my trade at ,lucerne10 replied   
,benedict2  8and now1 as ,i see you are 
a ,german man1 lieber ,herr1 and as ,i  
like  your countenance and your manner  
of speaking1 ,i will tell you in        
confidence that ,i know very little of  
my trade1 and have already been  turned 
out of several fabriques as an evil     

workman2 the two wash-balls  that ,i    
carry in my pocket are not of my own    
making4  ,in kurzem1 #aib ,i  know      
little more of soap-boiling than ,i do  
of tailoring1 horse-farriery1  or       
shoe-making1 all of which ,i have       
practised40    8,then ,i know not how   
you can hope to live like a ,herzog in  
your native  canton1 unless you expect  
that the men of ,lucerne1 in            
consideration of  your services to the  
,pope and to the ,king of ,spain1 will  
maintain you in  splendour at the public
 expense40    8,lieber ,herr10 said     
,benedict1 8the men of ,lucerne are by  
no means fond  of maintaining the       
soldiers of the ,pope and the ,king of  
,spain at their  own expense4  ,many of 
the guard who have returned thither beg 
their bread  in the streets2 but when ,i
 go1 it shall be in a coach drawn by six
 mules1  with a treasure1 a mighty      
,schatz which lies in the church of     
,saint  ,james of ,compostella1 in      
,galicia40    8,i hope you do not intend

 to rob the church10 said ,i2 8if you   
do1  however1 ,i believe you will be    
disappointed4  ,mendizabal and the      
liberals  have been beforehand with you4
  ,i am informed that at present no     
other  treasure is to be found in the   
cathedrals of ,spain than a few paltry  
ornaments and plated utensils40    8,my 
good ,german ,herr10 said ,benedict1 8it
 is no church ,schatz1 and no  person   
living1 save myself1 knows of its       
existence3 nearly thirty years  ago1    
amongst the sick soldiers who were      
brought to ,madrid1 was one of my       
comrades of the ,walloon ,guard1 who had
 accompanied the ,french to  ,portugal2 
he was very sick and shortly died4      
,before1 however1 he  breathed his last1
 he sent for me1 and upon his death-bed 
told me that  himself and two other     
soldiers1 both of whom had since been   
killed1 had  buried in a certain church 
at ,compostella a great booty which they
 had  made in ,portugal2 it consisted of
 gold moidores and of a packet of huge  

diamonds from the ,brazils2 the whole   
was contained in a large copper  kettle4
  ,i listened with greedy ears1 and from
 that moment1 ,i may say1 ,i  have known
 no rest1 neither by day nor night1     
thinking of the ,schatz4  ,it is very   
easy to find1 for the dying man was so  
exact in his  description of the place  
where it lies1 that were ,i once at     
,compostella1  ,i should have no        
difficulty in putting my hand upon it2  
several times ,i  have been on the point
 of setting out on the journey1 but     
something has  always happened to stop  
me4  ,when my wife died1 ,i left        
,minorca with a  determination to go to 
,saint ,james2 #aic;a but on reaching   
,madrid1 ,i fell  into the hands of a   
,basque woman1 who persuaded me to live 
with her1  which ,i have done for       
several years4  ,she is a great ,hax1   
#aic;b and  says that if ,i desert her  
she will breathe a spell which shall    
cling to  me for ever4  ,dem ,gottsey   
,dank1 #aic;c she is now in the         

hospital1 and  daily expected to die4   
,this is my history1 lieber ,herr40     
,i have been the more careful in        
relating the above conversation1 as ,i  
shall have frequent occasion to mention 
the ,swiss in the course of these       
journals2 his subsequent adventures were
 highly extraordinary1 and the  closing 
one caused a great sensation in ,spain4 
,,chapter ,,xiv4      ,state of         
,spain--,isturitz--,revolution of the   
,granja--,the ,disturbance--,signs of   
,mischief--,newspaper                   
,reporters--,quesada's ,onslaught--,the 
closing ,scene--,flight  of the         
,moderados--,the ,coffee ,bowl4    ,in  
the mean time the affairs of the        
moderados did not proceed in a very     
satisfactory manner2 they were unpopular
 at ,madrid1 and still more so in  the  
other large towns of ,spain1 in most of 
which juntas had been  formed1 which1   
taking the local administration into    
their own hands1  declared themselves   
independent of the queen and her        

ministers1 and  refused to pay taxes2 so
 that the government was within a short 
time  reduced to great straits for      
money4  ,the army was unpaid1 and the   
war  languished--,i mean on the part of 
the ,cristinos1 for the ,carlists were  
pushing it on with considerable vigour2 
parties of their guerillas  #aid        
scouring the country in all directions1 
whilst a large division1  under the     
celebrated ,gomez1 was making the entire
 circuit of ,spain4  ,to  crown the     
whole1 an insurrection was daily        
expected at ,madrid1 to prevent  which  
the nationals were disarmed1 which      
measure tended greatly to  increase     
their hatred against the moderado       
government1 and especially  against     
,quesada1 with whom it was supposed to  
have originated4    ,with respect to my 
own matters1 ,i lost no opportunity of  
pushing forward  my application2 the    
,aragonese secretary1 however1 still    
harped upon the  ,council of ,trent1 and
 succeeded in baffling all my efforts4  

,he appeared  to have inoculated his    
principal with his own ideas upon this  
subject1  for the duke1 when he beheld  
me at his levees1 took no farther notice
 of  me than by a contemptuous glance2  
and once1 when ,i stepped up for the    
purpose of addressing him1 disappeared  
through a side-door1 and ,i never  saw  
him again1 for ,i was disgusted with the
 treatment which ,i had  received1 and  
forbore paying any more visits at the   
,casa de la  ,inquisicion4  ,poor       
,galiano still proved himself my        
unshaken friend1 but  candidly informed 
me that there was no hope of my         
succeeding in the above  quarter4  8,the
 duke10 said he1 8says that your request
 cannot be granted2  and the other day1 
when ,i myself mentioned it in the      
council1 began to  talk of the decision 
of ,trent1 and spoke of yourself as a   
plaguy  pestilent fellow2 whereupon ,i  
answered him with some acrimony1 and    
there  ensued a bit of a funcion between
 us1 at which ,isturitz laughed         

heartily4  ,by-the-by10 continued he1   
8what need have you of a regular        
permission1 which it does not appear    
that any one has authority to grant8    
,the best thing that you can do under   
the circumstances is to commit the  work
 to the press1 with an understanding    
that you shall not be interfered  with  
when you attempt to distribute it4  ,i  
strongly advise you to see  ,isturitz   
himself upon the matter4  ,i will       
prepare him for the interview1  and will
 answer that he receives you civilly40  
,in fact1 a few days afterwards1 ,i had 
an interview with ,isturitz at the      
palace1 and for the sake of brevity ,i  
shall content myself with saying  that  
,i found him perfectly well disposed to 
favour my views4  8,i have  lived long  
in ,england10 said he2 8the ,bible is   
free there1 and ,i see no  reason why it
 should not be free in ,spain also4  ,i 
am not prepared to say  that ,england is
 indebted for her prosperity to the     
knowledge which all  her children1 more 

or less1 possess of the sacred writings2
 but of one  thing ,i am sure1 namely1  
that the ,bible has done no harm in that
 country1  nor do ,i believe that it    
will effect any in ,spain4  ,print it1  
therefore1  by all means1 and circulate 
it as extensively as possible40  ,i     
retired1  highly satisfied with my      
interview1 having obtained1 if not a    
written  permission to print the sacred 
volume1 what1 under all circumstances1  
,i  considered as almost equivalent--an 
understanding that my biblical  pursuits
 would be tolerated in ,spain2 and ,i   
had fervent hope that1  whatever was the
 fate of the present ministry1 no future
 one1  particularly a liberal one1 would
 venture to interfere with me1 more     
especially as the ,english ambassador   
was my friend1 and was privy to all  the
 steps ,i had taken throughout the whole
 affair4 #aif    ,two or three things   
connected with the above interview with 
,isturitz  struck me as being highly    
remarkable4  ,first of all1 the extreme 

facility  with which ,i obtained        
admission to the presence of the prime  
minister of  ,spain4  ,i had not to     
wait1 or indeed to send in my name1 but 
was  introduced at once by the          
doorkeeper4  ,secondly1 the air of      
loneliness  which pervaded the place1 so
 unlike the bustle1 noise1 and activity 
which  ,i observed when ,i waited on    
,mendizabal4  ,in this instance1 there  
were no  eager candidates for an        
interview with the great man2 indeed1 ,i
 did not  behold a single individual1   
with the exception of ,isturitz and the 
official4  ,but that which made the most
 profound impression upon me1 was  the  
manner of the minister himself1 who1    
when ,i entered1 sat upon a sofa1  with 
his arms folded1 and his eyes directed  
to the ground4  ,when he spoke  there   
was extreme depression in the tones of  
his voice1 his dark features  wore an   
air of melancholy1 and he exhibited all 
the appearance of a  person meditating  
to escape from the miseries of this life

 by the most  desperate of all          
acts--suicide4    ,and a few days showed
 that he had1 indeed1 cause for much    
melancholy  meditation3 in less than a  
week occurred the revolution of ,la     
,granja1  #aig as it is called4  ,la    
,granja1 or the ,grange1 is a royal     
country  seat1 situated amongst pine    
forests on the other side of the        
,guadarrama  hills1 about twelve leagues
 distant from ,madrid4  ,to this place  
the ,queen  ,regent ,christina had      
retired1 in order to be aloof from the  
discontent of  the capital1 and to enjoy
 rural air and amusements in this       
celebrated  retreat1 a monument of the  
taste and magnificence of the first     
,bourbon  who ascended the throne of    
,spain4  ,she was not1 however1         
permitted to  remain long in            
tranquillity2 her own guards were       
disaffected1 and more  inclined to the  
principles of the constitution of #ahbc 
than to those of  absolute monarchy1    
which the moderados were attempting to  

revive again  in the government of      
,spain4  ,early one morning1 a party of 
these  soldiers1 headed by a certain    
,sergeant ,garcia1 entered her          
apartment1 and  proposed that she should
 subscribe her hand to this             
constitution1 and  swear solemnly to    
abide by it4  ,christina1 however1 who  
was a woman of  considerable spirit1    
refused to comply with this proposal1   
and ordered  them to withdraw4  ,a scene
 of violence and tumult ensued1 but the 
,regent  still continuing firm1 the     
soldiers at length led her down to one  
of the  courts of the palace1 where     
stood her well-known paramour1 ,muoz1   
bound  and blindfolded4  8,swear to the 
constitution1 you she-rogue10           
vociferated  the swarthy sergeant4      
8,never60 said the spirited daughter of 
the  ,neapolitan ,bourbons4  8,then your
 cortejo shall die60 replied the        
sergeant4  8,ho6 ho6 my lads2 get ready 
your arms1 and send four bullets        
through the fellow's brain40  ,muoz was 

forthwith led to the wall1 and          
compelled to kneel down1 the soldiers   
levelled their muskets1 and another     
moment would have consigned the         
unfortunate wight to eternity1 when     
,christina1 forgetting everything but   
the feelings of her woman's heart1      
suddenly started forward with a shriek1 
exclaiming1 8,hold1 hold6  ,i sign1  ,i 
sign60    ,the day after this event #aih
 ,i entered the ,puerta del ,sol at     
about  noon4  ,there is always a crowd  
there about this hour1 but it is        
generally  a very quiet motionless      
crowd1 consisting of listless idlers    
calmly  smoking their cigars1 or        
listening to or retailing the--in       
general--very  dull news of the capital2
 but on the day of which ,i am speaking1
 the mass  was no longer inert4  ,there 
was much gesticulation and vociferation1
 and  several people were running about 
shouting1 8,viva la constitucion60--a   
cry which1 a few days previously1 would 
have been visited on the utterer  with  

death1 the city having for some weeks   
past been subjected to the  rigour of   
martial law4  ,i occasionally heard the 
words1 8,la ,granja6  ,la ,granja60     
which words were sure to be succeeded by
 the shout of  8,viva la constitucion60 
,opposite the ,casa de ,postas #aii were
 drawn  up in a line about a dozen      
mounted dragoons1 some of whom were     
continually waving their caps in the air
 and joining the common cry1 in  which  
they were encouraged by their commander1
 a handsome young officer1  who         
flourished his sword1 and more than once
 cried out with great glee1  8,long live
 the constitutional queen6  ,long live  
the constitution60    ,the crowd was    
rapidly increasing1 and several         
nationals made their  appearance in     
their uniforms1 but without their arms1 
of which they had  been deprived1 as ,i 
have already stated4  8,what has become 
of the  moderado government80 said ,i to
 ,baltasar1 whom ,i suddenly observed   
amongst the crowd1 dressed as when ,i   

had first seen him1 in his old          
regimental great coat and foraging cap2 
8have the ministers been deposed  and   
others put in their place80    8,not    
yet1 ,don ,jorge10 said the little      
soldier-tailor2 8not yet2 the           
scoundrels still hold out1 relying on   
the brute bull ,quesada and a few       
infantry1 who still continue true to    
them4  ,but there is no fear1 ,don      
,jorge2 the queen is ours1 thanks to the
 courage of my friend ,garcia1 and  if  
the brute bull should make his          
appearance--ho6 ho6 ,don ,jorge1 you    
shall see something--,i am prepared for 
him1 ho6 ho60 and thereupon he half     
opened his great coat1 and showed me a  
small gun which he bore beneath it  in a
 sling1 and then moving away with a wink
 and a nod1 disappeared  amongst the    
crowd4    ,presently ,i perceived a     
small body of soldiers advancing up the 
,calle  ,mayor1 or principal street     
which runs from the ,puerta del ,sol in 
the  direction of the palace2 they might

 be about twenty in number1 and an      
officer marched at their head with a    
drawn sword4  ,the men appeared to  have
 been collected in a hurry1 many of them
 being in fatigue dress1 with  foraging 
caps on their heads4  ,on they came1    
slowly marching2 neither  their officer 
nor themselves paying the slightest     
attention to the cries  of the crowd    
which thronged about them1 shouting1    
8,long live the  constitution60 save and
 except by an occasional surly side     
glance3 on  they marched with contracted
 brows and set teeth1 till they came in 
front  of the cavalry1 where they halted
 and drew up in rank4    8,those men    
mean mischief10 said ,i to my friend    
,d---1 of the ,morning  ,chronicle1 who 
at this moment joined me2 8and depend   
upon it1 that if  they are ordered they 
will commence firing1 caring nothing    
whom they hit4  ,but what can those     
cavalry fellows behind them mean1 who   
are evidently of  the other opinion by  
their shouting8  ,why don't they charge 

at once this  handful of foot people and
 overturn them8  ,once down1 the crowd  
would  wrest from them their muskets in 
a moment4  ,you are a liberal1 which ,i 
am  not2 why do you not go to that silly
 young man who commands the horse and   
give him a word of counsel in time80    
,d--- turned upon me his broad red      
good-humoured ,english countenance1 with
  a peculiarly arch look1 as much as to 
say1 4 4 4 7whatever you think most     
applicable1 gentle reader71 then taking 
me by the arm1 8,let us get10 said  he1 
8out of this crowd and mount to some    
window1 where ,i can write down  what is
 about to take place1 for ,i agree with 
you that mischief is  meant40  ,just    
opposite the post-office was a large    
house1 in the topmost  story of which we
 beheld a paper displayed1 importing    
that apartments  were to let2 whereupon 
we instantly ascended the common stair1 
and having  agreed with the mistress of 
the tage for the use of the front room  
for  the day1 we bolted the door1 and   

the reporter1 producing his pocket-book 
and pencil1 prepared to take notes of   
the coming events1 which were  already  
casting their shadow before4    ,what   
most extraordinary men are these        
reporters of newspapers in general1  ,i 
mean ,english newspapers6  ,surely if   
there be any class of individuals  who  
are entitled to the appellation of      
cosmopolites1 it is these2 who  pursue  
their avocation in all countries        
indifferently1 and accommodate          
themselves at will to the manners of all
 classes of society3 their  fluency of  
style as writers is only surpassed by   
their facility of  language in          
conversation1 and their attainments in  
classical and polite  literature only by
 their profound knowledge of the world1 
acquired by an  early introduction into 
its bustling scenes4  ,the activity1    
energy1 and  courage which they         
occasionally display in the pursuit of  
information1  are truly remarkable4  ,i 
saw them during the three days at       

,paris1 mingled  with canaille and      
gamins behind the barriers1 whilst the  
mitraille  was flying in all directions1
 and the desperate cuirassiers were     
dashing  their fierce horses against    
these seemingly feeble bulwarks4  ,there
 stood  they1 dotting down their        
observations in their pocket-books as   
unconcernedly as if reporting the       
proceedings of a reform meeting in      
,covent ,garden or ,finsbury ,square2   
whilst in ,spain1 several of them       
accompanied the ,carlist and ,cristino  
guerillas in some of their most         
desperate raids and expeditions1        
exposing themselves to the danger of    
hostile bullets1 the inclemency of      
winter1 and the fierce heat of the      
summer sun4    ,we had scarcely been    
five minutes at the window1 when we     
suddenly heard  the clattering of       
horses' feet hastening down the street  
called the ,calle  de ,carretas4  ,the  
house in which we had stationed         
ourselves was1 as ,i  have already      

observed1 just opposite to the          
post-office1 at the left of  which this 
street debouches from the north into the
 ,puerta del ,sol3 as  the sounds became
 louder and louder1 the cries of the    
crowd below  diminished1 and a species  
of panic seemed to have fallen upon all3
 once  or twice1 however1 ,i could      
distinguish the words1 8,quesada6       
,quesada60  ,the foot soldiers stood    
calm and motionless1 but ,i observed    
that the  cavalry1 with the young       
officer who commanded them1 displayed   
both  confusion and fear1 exchanging    
with each other some hurried words4     
,all  of a sudden that part of the crowd
 which stood near the mouth of the      
,calle de ,carretas fell back in great  
disorder1 leaving a considerable  space 
unoccupied1 and the next moment         
,quesada1 in complete general's         
uniform1 and mounted on a bright bay    
thoroughbred ,english horse1 with a     
drawn sword in his hand1 dashed at full 
gallop into the area1 in much the  same 

manner as ,i have seen a ,manchegan bull
 rush into the amphitheatre  when the   
gates of his pen are suddenly flung     
open4    ,he was closely followed by two
 mounted officers1 and at a short       
distance  by as many dragoons4  ,in     
almost less time than is sufficient to  
relate  it1 several individuals in the  
crowd were knocked down and lay         
sprawling  upon the ground1 beneath the 
horses of ,quesada and his two friends1 
for  as to the dragoons1 they halted as 
soon as they had entered the ,puerta    
del ,sol4  ,it was a fine sight to see  
three men1 by dint of valour and  good  
horsemanship1 strike terror into at     
least as many thousands3 ,i saw         
,quesada spur his horse repeatedly into 
the dense masses of the crowd1 and  then
 extricate himself in the most masterly 
manner4  ,the rabble were  completely   
awed1 and gave way1 retiring by the     
,calle del ,comercio and the  ,calle del
 ,alcal4  ,all at once1 ,quesada singled
 out two nationals1 who  were attempting

 to escape1 and setting spurs to his    
horse1 turned them in  a moment1 and    
drove them in another direction1        
striking them in a  contemptuous manner 
with the flat of his sabre4  ,he was    
crying out1 8,long  live the absolute   
queen60 when1 just beneath me1 amidst a 
portion of the  crowd which had still   
maintained its ground1 perhaps from not 
having the  means of escaping1 ,i saw a 
small gun glitter for a moment2 then    
there was  a sharp report1 and a bullet 
had nearly sent ,quesada to his long    
account1  passing so near to the        
countenance of the general as to graze  
his hat4  ,i  had an indistinct view for
 a moment of a well-known foraging cap  
just  about the spot from whence the gun
 had been discharged1 then there was a  
rush of the crowd1 and the shooter1     
whoever he was1 escaped discovery       
amidst the confusion which arose4    ,as
 for ,quesada1 he seemed to treat the   
danger from which he had escaped  with  
the utmost contempt4  ,he glared about  

him fiercely for a moment1  then leaving
 the two nationals1 who sneaked away    
like whipped hounds1 he  went up to the 
young officer who commanded the cavalry1
 and who had been  active in raising the
 cry of the constitution1 and to him he 
addressed a  few words with an air of   
stern menace2 the youth evidently       
quailed before  him1 and1 probably in   
obedience to his orders1 resigned the   
command of  the party1 and rode away    
with a discomfited air2 whereupon       
,quesada  dismounted and walked slowly  
backwards and forwards before the ,casa 
de  ,postas with a mien which seemed to 
bid defiance to mankind4    ,this was   
the glorious day of ,quesada's          
existence1 his glorious and last  day4  
,i call it the day of his glory1 for he 
certainly never before  appeared under  
such brilliant circumstances1 and he    
never lived to see  another sun set4    
,no action of any conqueror or hero on  
record is to be  compared with this     
closing scene of the life of ,quesada1  

for who1 by his  single desperate       
courage and impetuosity1 ever stopped a 
revolution in  full course8  ,quesada   
did3 he stopped the revolution at       
,madrid for one  entire day1 and brought
 back the uproarious and hostile mob of 
a huge  city to perfect order and quiet4
  ,his burst into the ,puerta del ,sol  
was  the most tremendous and successful 
piece of daring ever witnessed4  ,i     
admired so much the spirit of the 8brute
 bull0 that ,i frequently1 during  his  
wild onset1 shouted 8,viva ,quesada60   
for ,i wished him well4  ,not  that ,i  
am of any political party or system4    
,no1 no6  ,i have lived too  long with  
,romany ,chals #bjd;a and ,petulengres  
#bjd;b to be of any  politics save gypsy
 politics2 and it is well known that1   
during  elections1 the children of ,roma
 side with both parties so long as the  
event is doubtful1 promising success to 
each2 and then when the fight is  done1 
and the battle won1 invariably range    
themselves in the ranks of the          

victorious4  ,but ,i repeat that ,i     
wished well to ,quesada1 witnessing1 as 
,i  did1 his stout heart and good       
horsemanship4  ,tranquillity was        
restored to  ,madrid throughout the     
remainder of the day2 the handful of    
infantry  bivouacked in the ,puerta del 
,sol4  ,no more cries of 8long live the 
constitution0 were heard2 and the       
revolution in the capital seemed to     
have been effectually put down4  ,it is 
probable1 indeed1 that had the  chiefs  
of the moderado party but continued true
 to themselves for  forty-eight hours   
longer1 their cause would have          
triumphed1 and the  revolutionary       
soldiers at ,la ,granja would have been 
glad to restore the  ,queen ,regent to  
liberty1 and to have come to terms1 as  
it was well known  that several         
regiments1 who still continued loyal1   
were marching upon  ,madrid4  ,the      
moderados1 however1 were not true to    
themselves2 that  very night their      
hearts failed them1 and they fled in    

various  directions--,isturitz and      
,galiano to ,france2 and the ,duke of   
,rivas to  ,gibraltar4  ,the panic of   
his colleagues even infected ,quesada1  
who1  disguised as a civilian1 took to  
flight4  ,he was not1 however1 so       
successful as the rest1 but was         
recognized at a village about three     
leagues from ,madrid1 and cast into the 
prison by some friends of the           
constitution4  ,intelligence of his     
capture was instantly transmitted to    
the capital1 and a vast mob of the      
nationals1 some on foot1 some on        
horseback1 and others in cabriolets1    
instantly set out4  8,the nationals  are
 coming10 said a paisano to ,quesada4   
8,then10 said he1 8,i am lost10  and    
forthwith prepared himself for death4   
,there is a celebrated coffee-house in  
the ,calle del ,alcal1 at ,madrid1      
capable of holding several hundred      
individuals4  ,on the evening of the    
day in question1 ,i was seated there1   
sipping a cup of the brown beverage1    

when ,i heard a prodigious noise and    
clamour in the street2 it proceeded     
from the nationals1 who were returning  
from their expedition4  ,in a few       
minutes ,i saw a body of them enter the 
coffee-house1 marching arm in arm1  two 
by two1 stamping on the ground with     
their feet in a kind of measure1  and   
repeating in loud chorus1 as they walked
 round the spacious  apartment1 the     
following grisly stanza3--        8,que 
es lo que abaja      ,por aquel cerro8  
,ta ra ra ra ra4      ,son los huesos de
 ,quesada1      ,que los trae un perro--
      ,ta ra ra ra ra40 #bjf    ,a huge 
bowl of coffee was then called for1     
which was placed upon a table1  around  
which gathered the national soldiers4   
,there was silence for a  moment1 which 
was interrupted by a voice roaring out1 
8,el pauelo60  ,a  blue kerchief was    
forthwith produced1 which appeared to   
contain a  substance of some kind2 it   
was untied1 and a gory hand and three or
 four  dissevered fingers made their    

appearance1 and with these the contents 
of  the bowl were stirred up4  8,cups6  
cups60 cried the nationals4 4 4 4       
8,ho1 ho1 ,don ,jorge10 cried           
,baltasarito1 coming up to me with a cup
 of  coffee1 8pray do me the favour to  
drink upon this glorious occasion4      
,this is a pleasant day for ,spain1 and 
for the gallant nationals of  ,madrid4  
,i have seen many a bull funcion1 but   
none which has given me  so much        
pleasure as this4  ,yesterday the brute 
had it all his own way1  but to-day the 
toreros have prevailed1 as you see1 ,don
 ,jorge4  ,pray  drink2 for ,i must now 
run home to fetch my pajandi to play my 
brethren  a tune1 and sing a copla4     
,what shall it be8  ,something in       
,gitano8        #8,una noche sinava en  
tucue4' #bjg;a    ,you shake your head1 
,don ,jorge4  ,ha1 ha2 ,i am young1 and 
youth is the  time for pleasure4  ,well1
 well1 out of compliment to you1 who are
 an  ,englishman and a monr1 it shall   
not be that1 but something liberal1     

something patriotic1 the ,hymn of       
,riego4 #bjg;b  ,hasta despues1 ,don    
,jorge60 #bjg;c          ,,chapter ,,xv4
      ,the ,steamer--,cape              
,finisterre--,the ,storm--,arrival at   
,cadiz--,the ,new                       
,testament--,seville--,italica--,the    
,amphitheatre--,the ,prisoners--,the    
,encounter--,baron ,taylor--,the ,street
 and ,desert4    ,at the commencement of
 ,november #bjh ,i again found myself on
 the salt  water1 on my way to ,spain4  
,i had returned to ,england shortly     
after the  events which have been       
narrated in the last chapter1 for the   
purpose of  consulting with my friends1 
and for planning the opening of a       
biblical  campaign in ,spain4  ,it was  
now determined by us to print the ,new  
,testament1 with as little delay as     
possible1 at ,madrid2 and ,i was to be  
entrusted with the somewhat arduous task
 of its distribution4  ,my stay in      
,england was very short1 for time was   
precious1 and ,i was eager to return  to

 the field of action4    ,i embarked in 
the ,thames1 on board the ,m--- steamer4
  ,we had a most  unpleasant passage to 
,falmouth4  ,the ship was crowded with  
passengers2  most of them were poor     
consumptive individuals1 and other      
invalids  fleeing from the cold blasts  
of ,england's winter to the sunny shores
 of  ,portugal and ,madeira4  ,in a more
 uncomfortable vessel1 especially       
steamship1 it has never been my fate to 
make a voyage4  ,the berths were  small 
and insupportably close1 and of these   
wretched holes mine was  amongst the    
worst1 the rest having been bespoken    
before ,i arrived on  board2 so that1 to
 avoid the suffocation which seemed to  
threaten me1  should ,i enter it1 ,i lay
 upon the floor of one of the cabins    
throughout  the voyage4  ,we remained at
 ,falmouth twenty-four hours1 taking in 
coal  and repairing the engine1 which   
had sustained considerable damage4      
,on ,monday1 the #gth1 we again started1
 and made for the ,bay of ,biscay4  ,the

 sea was high1 and the wind strong and  
contrary2 nevertheless1 on the  morning 
of the fourth day1 we were in sight of  
the rocky coast to the  north of ,cape  
,finisterre4  ,i must here observe1 that
 this was the first  voyage that the    
captain who commanded the vessel had    
ever made on board  of her1 and that he 
knew little or nothing of the coast     
towards which we  were bearing4  ,he was
 a person picked up in a hurry1 the     
former captain  having resigned his     
command on the ground that the ship was 
not  seaworthy1 and that the engines    
were frequently unserviceable4  ,i was  
not  acquainted with these circumstances
 at the time1 or perhaps ,i should have 
felt more alarmed than ,i did1 when ,i  
saw the vessel approaching nearer  and  
nearer the shore1 till at last we were  
only a few hundred yards  distant4  ,as 
it was1 however1 ,i felt very much      
surprised2 for having  passed it twice  
before1 both times in steam-vessels1 and
 having seen with  what care the        

captains endeavoured to maintain a wide 
offing1 ,i could not  conceive the      
reason of our being now so near this    
dangerous region4  ,the  wind was       
blowing hard towards the shore1 if that 
can be called a shore  which consists of
 steep abrupt precipices1 on which the  
surf was breaking  with the noise of    
thunder1 tossing up clouds of spray and 
foam to the  height of a cathedral4  ,we
 coasted slowly along1 rounding several 
tall  forelands1 some of them piled up  
by the hand of nature in the most       
fantastic shapes4  ,about nightfall     
,cape ,finisterre was not far ahead--a  
bluff1 brown granite mountain1 whose    
frowning head may be seen far away  by  
those who traverse the ocean4  ,the     
stream which poured round its  breast   
was terrific1 and though our engines    
plied with all their force1  we made    
little or no way4    ,by about eight    
o'clock at night the wind had increased 
to a hurricane1  the thunder rolled     
frightfully1 and the only light which we

 had to guide  us on our way was the red
 forked lightning1 which burst at times 
from the  bosom of the big black clouds 
which lowered over our heads4  ,we were 
exerting ourselves to the utmost to     
weather the cape1 which we could  descry
 by the lightning on our lee1 its brow  
being frequently brilliantly  lighted up
 by the flashes which quivered around   
it1 when suddenly1 with a  great crash1 
the engine broke1 and the paddles1 on   
which depended our  lives1 ceased to    
play4    ,i will not attempt to depict  
the scene of horror and confusion which 
ensued2 it may be imagined1 but never   
described4  ,the captain1 to give  him  
his due1 displayed the utmost coolness  
and intrepidity3 he and the  whole crew 
made the greatest exertions to repair   
the engine1 and when  they found their  
labour in vain1 endeavoured1 by hoisting
 the sails1 and  by practising all      
possible manuvres1 to preserve the ship 
from impending  destruction4  ,but all  
was of no avail2 we were hard on a lee  

shore1 to  which the howling tempest was
 impelling us4  ,about this time ,i was 
standing near the helm1 and ,i asked the
 steersman if there was any hope  of    
saving the vessel1 or our lives4  ,he   
replied1 8,sir1 it is a bad  affair2 no 
boat could live for a minute in this    
sea1 and in less than an  hour the ship 
will have her broadside on ,finisterre1 
where the strongest  man-of-war ever    
built must go to shivers instantly4     
,none of us will see  the morning40     
,the captain likewise informed the other
 passengers in the  cabin to the same   
effect1 telling them to prepare         
themselves2 and having  done so1 he     
ordered the door to be fastened1 and    
none to be permitted to  come on deck4  
,i however kept my station1 though      
almost drowned with  water1 immense     
waves continually breaking over our     
windward side and  flooding the ship4   
,the water-casks broke from their       
lashings1 and one of  them struck me    
down1 and crushed the foot of the       

unfortunate man at the  helm1 whose     
place was instantly taken by the        
captain4  ,we were now close  to the    
rocks1 when a horrid convulsion of the  
elements took place4  ,the  lightning   
enveloped us as with a mantle2 the      
thunders were louder than  the roar of a
 million cannon2 the dregs of the ocean 
seemed to be cast  up1 and in the midst 
of all this turmoil1 the wind1 without  
the slightest  intimation1 veered right 
about1 and pushed us from the horrible  
coast  faster than it had previously    
driven us towards it4    ,the oldest    
sailors on board acknowledged that they 
had never witnessed so  providential an 
escape4  ,i said1 from the bottom of my 
heart1 8,our  ,father--hallowed be ,thy 
name40    ,the next day we were near    
foundering1 for the sea was exceedingly 
high1  and our vessel1 which was not    
intended for sailing1 laboured terribly1
  and leaked much4  ,the pumps were     
continually working4  ,she likewise took
  fire1 but the flames were             

extinguished4  ,in the evening the      
steam-engine  was partially repaired1   
and we reached ,lisbon on the           
thirteenth1 where in  a few days we     
completed our repairs4    ,i found my   
excellent friend ,w--- in good health4  
,during my absence he  had been doing   
everything in his power to further the  
sale of the sacred  volume in           
,portuguese3 his zeal and devotedness   
were quite admirable4  ,the  distracted 
state of the country1 however1 during   
the last six months1 had  sadly impeded 
his efforts4  ,the minds of the people  
had been so engrossed  with politics1   
that they found scarcely any time to    
think of the welfare  of their souls4   
,the political history of ,portugal had 
of late afforded a  striking parallel to
 that of the neighbouring country4  ,in 
both a  struggle for supremacy had      
arisen between the court and the        
democratic  party2 in both the latter   
had triumphed1 whilst two distinguished 
individuals had fallen a sacrifice to   

the popular fury--,freire #bab;a in     
,portugal1 and ,quesada in ,spain4  ,the
 news which reached me at ,lisbon from  
the latter country was rather startling4
  ,the hordes of ,gomez #bab;b were     
ravaging ,andalusia1 which ,i was about 
to visit on my way to ,madrid2  ,cordova
 had been sacked and abandoned1 after a 
three days' occupation by  the          
,carlists4  ,i was told that if ,i      
persisted in my attempt to enter  ,spain
 in the direction which ,i proposed1 ,i 
should probably fall into  their hands  
at ,seville4  ,i had1 however1 no fears1
 and had full  confidence that the ,lord
 would open the path before me to       
,madrid4    ,the vessel being repaired1 
we again embarked1 and in two days      
arrived in  safety at ,cadiz4  ,i found 
great confusion reigning there2 numerous
 bands  of the factious were reported to
 be hovering in the neighbourhood4  ,an 
attack was not deemed improbable1 and   
the place had just been declared in  a  
state of siege4  ,i took up my abode at 

the ,french hotel1 in the ,calle  de la 
,niveria1 and was allotted a species of 
cockloft1 or garret1 to  sleep in1 for  
the house was filled with guests1 being 
a place of much  resort1 on account of  
the excellent table d'hte which is kept 
there4  ,i dressed myself1 and walked   
about the town4  ,i entered several     
coffee-houses3 the din of tongues in all
 was deafening4  ,in one no less  than  
six orators were haranguing at the same 
time on the state of the  country1 and  
the probability of an intervention on   
the part of ,england  and ,france4  ,as 
,i was listening to one of them1 he     
suddenly called upon  me for my opinion1
 as ,i was a foreigner1 and seemingly   
just arrived4  ,i  replied that ,i could
 not venture to guess what steps the two
 governments  would pursue under the    
present circumstances1 but thought that 
it would  be as well if the ,spaniards  
would exert themselves more1 and call   
less on  ,jupiter4  ,as ,i did not wish 
to engage in any political conversation1

 ,i  instantly quitted the house1 and   
sought those parts of the town where the
  lower classes principally reside4     
,i entered into discourse with several  
individuals1 but found them very        
ignorant2 none could read or write1 and 
their ideas respecting religion  were   
anything but satisfactory--most         
professing a perfect indifference4  ,i  
afterwards went into a bookseller's     
shop1 and made inquiries respecting  the
 demand for literature1 which he        
informed me was small4  ,i produced a   
,london edition of the ,new ,testament1 
in ,spanish1 and asked the bookseller   
whether he thought a book of that       
description would sell in ,cadiz4  ,he  
said that both the type and paper were  
exceedingly beautiful1 but that it  was 
a work not sought after and very little 
known4  ,i did not pursue my  inquiries 
in other shops1 for ,i reflected that ,i
 was not likely to  receive a very      
favourable opinion from booksellers     
respecting a  publication in which they 

had no interest4  ,i had1 moreover1 but 
two or  three copies of the ,new        
,testament with me1 and could not have  
supplied  them1 had they even given me  
an order4    ,early on the #bdth ,i     
embarked for ,seville1 in the small     
,spanish steamer  the ,betis4 #bad  ,the
 morning was wet1 and the aspect of     
nature was  enveloped in a dense mist1  
which prevented my observing surrounding
  objects4  ,after proceeding about six 
leagues1 we reached the  north-eastern  
extremity of the ,bay of ,cadiz1 and    
passed by ,san ,lucar1 an  ancient town 
near to the spot where the ,guadalquivir
 disembogues itself4  ,the mist suddenly
 disappeared1 and the sun of ,spain     
burst forth in full  brilliancy1        
enlivening all round1 and particularly  
myself1 who had till  then been lying on
 the deck in a dull melancholy stupor4  
,we entered the  mouth of 8,the ,great  
,river10 for that is the ,english       
translation of ,wady  al ,kebir1 as the 
,moors designated the ancient ,betis4   

,we came to anchor  for a few minutes at
 a little village called ,bonanza1 at   
the extremity of  the first reach of the
 river1 where we received several       
passengers1 and  again proceeded4       
,there is not much in the appearance of 
the ,guadalquivir  to interest the      
traveller3 the banks are low and        
destitute of trees1 the  adjacent       
country is flat1 and only in the        
distance is seen a range of  tall blue  
sierras4  ,the water is turbid and      
muddy1 and in colour closely  resembling
 the contents of a duck-pool2 the       
average width of the stream  is from    
#aej to #bjj yards4  ,but it is         
impossible to move along this river     
without remembering that it has borne   
the ,roman1 the ,vandal1 and the  ,arab1
 and has been the witness of deeds which
 have resounded through the  world1 and 
been the themes of immortal songs4  ,i  
repeated ,latin verses  and fragments of
 old ,spanish ballads till we reached   
,seville1 at about  nine o'clock of a   

lovely moonlight night4    ,seville     
contains ninety thousand inhabitants1   
and is situated on the  eastern bank of 
the ,guadalquivir1 about eighteen       
leagues from its mouth2  it is          
surrounded with high ,moorish walls1 in 
a good state of  preservation1 and built
 of such durable materials that it is   
probable  they will for many centuries  
still bid defiance to the encroachments 
of  time4  ,the most remarkable edifices
 are the cathedral and alcazar1 or      
palace of the ,moorish kings4  ,the     
tower of the former1 called ,la         
,giralda1  #bae belongs to the period of
 the ,moors1 and formed part of the     
grand  mosque of ,seville3 it is        
computed to be one hundred ells in      
height1 and  is ascended not by stairs  
or ladders1 but by a vaulted pathway1 in
 the  manner of an inclined plane4      
,this path is by no means steep1 so that
 a  cavalier might ride up to the top1 a
 feat which ,ferdinand the ,seventh is  
said to have accomplished4  ,the view   

from the summit is very extensive1  and 
on a fine clear day the mountain ridge  
called the ,sierra de ,ronda may  be    
discovered1 though upwards of twenty    
leagues distant4  ,the cathedral  itself
 is a noble ,gothic structure1 #baf;a   
reputed the finest of the kind  in      
,spain4  ,in the chapels allotted to the
 various saints are some of the  most   
magnificent paintings which ,spanish art
 has produced2 indeed1 the  cathedral of
 ,seville is at the present time far    
more rich in splendid  paintings than at
 any former period1 possessing many very
 recently  removed from some of the     
suppressed convents1 particularly from  
the  ,capuchin and ,san ,francisco4     
,no one should visit ,seville without   
paying particular attention to the      
alcazar1 that splendid specimen of      
,moorish architecture4  ,it contains    
many magnificent halls1 particularly    
that of the ambassadors1 so called1     
which is in every respect more          
magnificent than the one of the same    

name  within the ,alhambra of ,granada4 
,this palace was a favourite residence  
of  ,peter the ,cruel1 #baf;b who       
carefully repaired it without altering  
its  ,moorish character and appearance4 
,it probably remains in much the same   
state as at the time of his death4      
,on the right side of the river is a    
large suburb1 called ,triana1           
communicating with ,seville by means of 
a bridge of boats2 #baf;c for  there is 
no permanent bridge across the          
,guadalquivir1 owing to the  violent    
inundations to which it is subject4     
,this suburb is inhabited by  the dregs 
of the populace1 and abounds with       
,gitanos or gypsies4  ,about  a league  
and a half to the north-west stands the 
village of ,santi ,ponce3  at the foot  
and on the side of some elevated ground 
higher up are to be  seen vestiges of   
ruined walls and edifices1 which once   
formed part of  ,italica1 the birthplace
 of ,silius ,italicus and ,trajan1 from 
which latter  personage ,triana derives 

its name4    ,one fine morning ,i walked
 thither1 and1 having ascended the hill1
 ,i  directed my course northward4  ,i  
soon reached what had once been bagnios2
  and a little farther on1 in a kind of 
valley1 between two gentle  declivities1
 the amphitheatre4  ,this latter object 
is by far the most  considerable relic  
of ancient ,italica2 it is oval in its  
form1 with two  gateways fronting the   
east and west4    ,on all sides are to  
be seen the time-worn broken granite    
benches1 from  whence myriads of human  
beings once gazed down on the area      
below1 where  the gladiator shouted1 and
 the lion and the leopard yelled3 all   
around1  beneath these flights of       
benches1 are vaulted excavations from   
whence the  combatants1 part human1 part
 bestial1 darted forth by their several 
doors4  ,i spent many hours in this     
singular place1 forcing my way through  
the wild fennel and brushwood into the  
caverns1 now the haunts of adders  and  
other reptiles1 whose hissings ,i heard4

  ,having sated my curiosity1 ,i  left  
the ruins1 and1 returning by another    
way1 reached a place where lay  the     
carcass of a horse half devoured2 upon  
it1 with lustrous eyes1 stood  an       
enormous vulture1 who1 as ,i approached1
 slowly soared aloft till he  alighted  
on the eastern gate of the amphitheatre1
 from whence he uttered  a hoarse cry1  
as if in anger that ,i had disturbed him
 from his feast of  carrion4    ,gomez  
had not hitherto paid a visit to        
,seville3 when ,i arrived he was  said  
to be in the neighbourhood of ,ronda4   
,the city was under watch and  ward3    
several gates had been blocked up with  
masonry1 trenches dug1 and  redoubts    
erected2 but ,i am convinced that the   
place would not have held  out six hours
 against a resolute attack4  ,gomez had 
proved himself to be  a most            
extraordinary man2 and with his small   
army of ,aragonese and  ,basques had1   
within the last four months1 made the   
tour of ,spain4  ,he had  very          

frequently been hemmed in by forces     
three times the number of his  own1 in  
places whence escape appeared           
impossible2 but he had always  baffled  
his enemies1 whom he seemed to laugh at4
  ,the most absurd  accounts of         
victories gained over him were          
continually issuing from the  press at  
,seville2 amongst others1 it was stated 
that his army had been  utterly         
defeated1 himself killed1 and that      
twelve hundred prisoners were  on their 
way to ,seville4  ,i saw these          
prisoners3 instead of twelve  hundred   
desperadoes1 #bah they consisted of     
about twenty poor1 lame1  ragged        
wretches1 many of them boys from        
fourteen to sixteen years of age4  ,they
 were evidently camp-followers1 who1    
unable to keep up with the army1  had   
been picked up straggling in the plains 
and amongst the hills4    ,it           
subsequently appeared that no battle had
 occurred1 and that the death  of ,gomez
 was a fiction4  ,the grand defect of   

,gomez consisted in not  knowing how to 
take advantage of circumstances3 after  
defeating ,lopez1 he  might have marched
 to ,madrid and proclaimed ,don ,carlos 
there2 and after  sacking ,cordova he   
might have captured ,seville4    ,there 
were several booksellers' shops at      
,seville1 in two of which ,i found      
copies of the ,new ,testament in        
,spanish1 which had been obtained from  
,gibraltar about two years before1 since
 which time six copies had been  sold in
 one shop and four in the other4  ,the  
person who generally  accompanied me in 
my walks about the town and the         
neighbourhood1 was an  elderly ,genoese1
 who officiated as a kind of valet de   
place in the  ,posada del ,turco1 where 
,i had taken up my residence4  ,on      
learning from me  that it was my        
intention to bring out an edition of the
 ,new ,testament at  ,madrid1 he        
observed that copies of the work might  
be extensively  circulated in           
,andalusia4  8,i have been accustomed to

 bookselling10 he  continued1 8and at   
one time possessed a small shop of my   
own in this  place4  ,once having       
occasion to go to ,gibraltar1 ,i        
procured several  copies of the         
,scriptures3 some1 it is true1 were     
seized by the officers  of the customs2 
but the rest ,i sold at a high price1   
and with  considerable profit to        
myself40    ,i had returned from a walk 
in the country1 on a glorious sunshiny  
morning  of the ,andalusian winter1 and 
was directing my steps towards my       
lodging3  as ,i was passing by the      
portal of a large gloomy house near the 
gate of  ,xeres1 two individuals1       
dressed in zamarras1 emerged from the   
archway1  and were about to cross my    
path1 when one1 looking in my face1     
suddenly  started back1 exclaiming in   
the purest and most melodious           
,french3--8,what  do ,i see8  ,if my    
eyes do not deceive me--it is himself4  
,yes1 the very  same as ,i saw him first
 at ,bayonne2 then long subsequently    

beneath the  brick wall at ,novogorod2  
then beside the ,bosphorus2 and last    
at--at--  ,oh1  my respectable and      
cherished friend1 where was it that ,i  
had last the  felicity of seeing your   
well-remembered and most remarkable     
physiognomy80    ,myself4--,it was in   
the south of ,ireland1 if ,i mistake    
not4  ,was it not  there that ,i        
introduced you to the sorcerer who tamed
 the savage horses  by a single whisper 
into their ear8  ,but tell me what      
brings you to ,spain  and ,andalusia1   
the last place where ,i should have     
expected to find you8    ,baron         
,taylor4--,and wherefore1 my most       
respectable ,b---8  ,is not ,spain  the 
land of the arts2 and is not ,andalusia 
of all ,spain that portion  which has   
produced the noblest monuments of       
artistic excellence and  inspiration8   
,surely you know enough of me to be     
aware that the arts are  my passion2    
that ,i am incapable of imagining a more
 exalted enjoyment  than to gaze in     

adoration on a noble picture4  ,oh1 come
 with me6 for you1  too1 have a soul    
capable of appreciating what is lovely  
and exalted2 a  soul delicate and       
sensitive4  ,come with me1 and ,i will  
show you a  ,murillo1 such as 4 4 4     
,but first allow me to introduce you to 
your  compatriot4  ,my dear ,monsieur   
,w---1 turning to his companion 7an     
,english  gentleman1 from whom and from 
his family ,i subsequently experienced  
unbounded kindness and hospitality on   
various occasions1 and at different     
periods at ,seville71 allow me to       
introduce to you my most cherished and  
respectable friend1 one who is better   
acquainted with gypsy ways than the     
,chef des ,bohmiens  ,triana1 #bbj one  
who is an expert whisperer and          
horse-sorcerer2 and who1 to his honour  
,i say it1 can wield hammer and  tongs1 
and handle a horseshoe with the best of 
the smiths amongst the  ,alpujarras of  
,granada4    ,in the course of my       
travels ,i have formed various          

friendships and  acquaintances1 but no  
one has more interested me than ,baron  
,taylor1 #bba  and there is no one for  
whom ,i entertain a greater esteem and  
regard4  ,to  personal and mental       
accomplishments of the highest order he 
unites a  kindness of heart rarely to be
 met with1 and which is continually     
inducing him to seek for opportunities  
of doing good to his  fellow-creatures1 
and of contributing to their happiness2 
perhaps no  person in existence has seen
 more of the world and life in its      
various  phases than himself4  ,his     
manners are naturally to the highest    
degree  courtly1 yet he nevertheless    
possesses a disposition so pliable that 
he  finds no difficulty in accommodating
 himself to all kinds of company1 in    
consequence of which he is a universal  
favourite4  ,there is a mystery  about  
him1 which1 wherever he goes1 serves not
 a little to increase the  sensation    
naturally created by his appearance and 
manner4  ,who he is1 no  one pretends to

 assert with downright positiveness3 it 
is whispered1  however1 that he is a    
scion of royalty2 and who can gaze for a
 moment  upon that most graceful figure1
 that most intelligent but singularly   
moulded countenance1 and those large and
 expressive eyes1 without feeling  as   
equally convinced that he is of no      
common lineage1 as that he is no  common
 man8  ,though possessed of talents and 
eloquence which would  speedily have    
enabled him to attain to an illustrious 
position in the  state1 he has hitherto1
 and perhaps wisely1 contented himself  
with  comparative obscurity1 chiefly    
devoting himself to the study of the    
arts  and of literature1 of both of     
which he is a most bounteous patron4    
,he has1 notwithstanding1 been employed 
by the illustrious house to which  he is
 said to be related in more than one    
delicate and important mission1  both in
 the ,east and the ,west1 in which his  
efforts have uniformly been  crowned    
with complete success4  ,he was now     

collecting masterpieces of the  ,spanish
 school of painting1 which were destined
 to adorn the saloons of  the           
,tuileries4    ,he has visited most     
portions of the earth2 and it is        
remarkable enough  that we are          
continually encountering each other in  
strange places and  under singular      
circumstances4  ,whenever he descries   
me1 whether in the  street or the       
desert1 the brilliant hall or amongst   
,bedouin haimas1 at  ,novogorod or      
,stambul1 he flings up his arms and     
exclaims1 8,o ciel6  ,i  have again the 
felicity of seeing my cherished and most
 respectable  ,b---40          ,,chapter
 ,,xvi4      ,departure for             
,cordova--,carmona--,german             
,colonies--,language--,the ,sluggish    
,horse--,nocturnal ,welcome--,carlist   
,landlord--,good ,advice--,gomez--,the  
,old  ,genoese--,the ,two ,opinions4    
,after a sojourn of about fourteen days 
at ,seville1 ,i departed for  ,cordova4 
,the diligence had for some time past   

ceased running1 owing to  the disturbed 
state of the province4  ,i had therefore
 no resource but to  proceed thither on 
horseback4  ,i hired a couple of horses1
 and engaged  the old ,genoese1 of whom 
,i have already had occasion to speak1  
to attend  me as far as ,cordova1 and to
 bring them back4  ,notwithstanding we  
were  now in the depths of winter1 the  
weather was beautiful1 the days sunny   
and brilliant1 though the nights were   
rather keen4  ,we passed by the  little 
town of ,alcal1 #bbc celebrated for the 
ruins of an immense  ,moorish castle1   
which stand on a rocky hill1 overhanging
 a picturesque  river4  ,the first night
 we slept at ,carmona1 another ,moorish 
town1  distant about seven leagues from 
,seville4  ,early in the morning we     
again  mounted and departed4  ,perhaps  
in the whole of ,spain there is scarcely
 a  finer ,moorish monument of antiquity
 than the eastern side of this town of  
,carmona1 which occupies the brow of a  
lofty hill1 and frowns over an          

extensive vega or plain1 which extends  
for leagues unplanted and  uncultivated1
 producing nothing but brushwood and    
carrasco4  ,here rise  tall and dusky   
walls1 with square towers at short      
distances1 of so  massive a structure   
that they would seem to bid defiance    
alike to the  tooth of time and the hand
 of man4  ,this town1 in the time of the
 ,moors1  was considered the key to     
,seville1 and did not submit to the     
,christian  arms till after a long and  
desperate siege3 the capture of ,seville
  followed speedily after4  ,the vega   
upon which we now entered forms a  part 
of the grand despoblado or desert of    
,andalusia1 once a smiling  garden1 but 
which became what it now is on the      
expulsion of the ,moors  from ,spain1   
when it was drained almost entirely of  
its population4  ,the  towns and        
villages from hence to the ,sierra      
,morena1 which divides  ,andalusia from 
,la ,mancha1 are few and far between1   
and even of these  several date from the

 middle of the last century1 when an    
attempt was  made by a ,spanish minister
 to people this wilderness with the     
children of  a foreign land4    ,at     
about midday we arrived at a place      
called ,moncloa1 which consisted of  a  
venta1 and a desolate-looking edifice   
which had something of the  appearance  
of a chteau2 a solitary palm tree raised
 its head over the  outer wall4  ,we    
entered the venta1 tied our horses to   
the manger1 and  having ordered barley  
for them1 we sat down before a large    
fire1 which  burned in the middle of the
 venta4  ,the host and hostess also came
 and  sat down beside us4  8,they are   
evil people10 said the old ,genoese to  
me  in ,italian1 8and this is an evil   
house2 it is a harbouring place for     
thieves1 and murders have been committed
 here1 if all tales be true40  ,i       
looked at these two people attentively2 
they were both young1 the man           
apparently about twenty-five years of   
age4  ,he was a short thick-made  churl1

 evidently of prodigious strength2 his  
features were rather  handsome1 but with
 a gloomy expression1 and his eyes were 
full of sullen  fire4  ,his wife        
somewhat resembled him1 but had a       
countenance more open  and better       
tempered2 but what struck me as most    
singular in connexion  with these       
people1 was the colour of their hair and
 complexion4  ,the  latter was fair and 
ruddy1 and the former of a bright       
auburn1 both in  striking contrast to   
the black hair and swarthy visages which
 in general  distinguish the natives of 
this province4  8,are you an            
,andalusian80 said  ,i to the hostess4  
8,i should almost conclude you to be a  
,german40    ,hostess4--,and your       
worship would not be very wrong4  ,it is
 true that ,i  am a ,spaniard1 being    
born in ,spain2 but it is equally true  
that ,i am of  ,german blood1 for my    
grandparents came from ,germany even    
like those of  this gentleman1 my lord  
and husband4    ,myself4--,and what     

chance brought your grandparents into   
this country8    ,hostess4--,did your   
worship never hear of the ,german       
colonies8  ,there are  many of them in  
these parts4  ,in old times the land was
 nearly deserted1  and it was very      
dangerous for travellers to journey     
along the waste1  owing to the robbers4 
,so a long time ago1 nearly a hundred   
years1 as ,i  am told1 some potent lord 
sent messengers to ,germany1 to tell the
 people  there what a goodly land there 
was in these parts uncultivated for want
  of hands1 and to promise every        
labourer who would consent to come and  
till it1 a house and a yoke of oxen1    
with food and provision for one  year4  
,and in consequence of this invitation a
 great many poor families  left the     
,german land and came hither1 and       
settled down in certain towns  and      
villages which had been prepared for    
them1 which places were called  ,german 
colonies1 and this name they still      
retain4    ,myself4--,and how many of   

these colonies may there be8            
,hostess4--,there are several1 both on  
this side of ,cordova and the other4    
,the nearest is ,luisiana1 about two    
leagues from hence1 from which place    
both my husband and myself come2 the    
next is ,carlota1 #bbf which is some    
ten leagues distant1 and these are the  
only colonies of our people which  ,i   
have seen2 but there are others farther 
on1 and some1 as ,i have heard  say1 in 
the very heart of the ,sierra ,morena4  
,myself4--,and do the colonists still   
retain the language of their            
forefathers8    ,hostess4--,we speak    
,spanish1 or rather ,andalusian1 and no 
other language4  ,a few1 indeed1 amongst
 the very old people1 retain a few words
 of ,german1  which they acquired from  
their fathers1 who were born in the     
other  country2 but the last person     
amongst the colonists who could         
understand a  conversation in ,german   
was the aunt of my mother1 who came over
 when a  girl4  ,when ,i was a child ,i 

remember her conversing with a foreign  
traveller1 a countryman of hers1 in a   
language which ,i was told was  ,german1
 and they understood each other1 though 
the old woman confessed  that she had   
lost many words3 she has now been dead  
several years4    ,myself4--,of what    
religion are the colonists8             
,hostess4--,they are ,christians1 like  
the ,spaniards1 and so were their       
fathers before them4  ,indeed1 ,i have  
heard that they came from a part of     
,germany where the ,christian religion  
is as much practised as in ,spain       
itself4    ,myself4--,the ,germans are  
the most honest people in the world3    
being  their legitimate descendants1 you
 have of course no thieves amongst you4 
,the hostess glanced at me for a moment1
 then looked at her husband and  smiled3
 the latter1 who had hitherto been      
smoking without uttering a  word1 though
 with a peculiarly surly and            
dissatisfied countenance1 now  flung the
 remainder of his cigar amongst the     

embers1 then springing up1  he muttered1
 8,disparate60 and 8,conversacion60 and 
went abroad4    8,you touched them in   
the sore place1 ,signore10 said the     
,genoese1 after  we had left ,moncloa   
some way behind us4  8,were they honest 
people they  would not keep that venta2 
and as for the colonists1 ,i know not   
what  kind of people they might be when 
they first came over1 but at present    
their ways are not a bit better than    
those of the ,andalusians1 but rather   
worse1 if there is any difference at    
all40    ,a short time before sunset of 
the third day after our departure from  
,seville1 we found ourselves at the     
,cuesta del ,espinal1 or hill of the    
thorn tree1 at about two leagues from   
,cordova2--we could just descry the     
walls of the city1 upon which the last  
beams of the descending luminary  were  
resting4  ,as the neighbourhood in which
 we were was1 according to  the account 
of my guide1 generally infested with    
robbers1 we used our  best endeavours to

 reach the town before the night should 
have entirely  closed in4  ,we did not  
succeed1 however1 and before we had     
proceeded half  the distance1 pitchy    
darkness overtook us4  ,throughout the  
journey we had  been considerably       
delayed by the badness of our horses1   
especially that  of my attendant1 which 
appeared to pay no regard to whip or    
spur3 his  rider also was no horseman1  
it being thirty years1 as he at length  
confessed to me1 since he last mounted  
in a saddle4  ,horses soon become  aware
 of the powers of their riders1 and the 
brute in question was  disposed to take 
great advantage of the fears and        
weakness of the old  man4  ,there is a  
remedy1 however1 for most things in this
 world4  ,i  became so wearied at last  
at the snail's pace at which we were    
proceeding1 that ,i fastened the bridle 
of the sluggish horse to the  crupper of
 mine2 then sparing neither spur nor    
cudgel1 ,i soon forced my  own horse    
into a kind of trot1 which compelled the

 other to make some use  of his legs4   
,he twice attempted to fling himself    
down1 to the great  terror of his aged  
rider1 who frequently entreated me to   
stop and permit  him to dismount4  ,i1  
however1 took no notice of what he said1
 but  continued spurring and cudgelling 
with unabated activity1 and with such   
success1 that in less than half an hour 
we saw lights close before us1  and     
presently came to a river and a bridge1 
which crossing1 we found  ourselves at  
the gate of ,cordova1 without having    
broken either our  horses' knees or our 
own necks4    ,we passed through the    
entire length of the town ere we reached
 the  posada3 the streets were dark and 
almost entirely deserted4  ,the  posada 
was a large building1 the windows of    
which were well fenced with  rejas1 or  
iron grating3 no light gleamed from     
them1 and the silence of  death not only
 seemed to pervade the house1 but the   
street in which it  was situated4  ,we  
knocked for a long time at the gate     

without receiving  any answer2 we then  
raised our voices and shouted4  ,at last
 some one from  within inquired what we 
wanted4  8,open the door and you will   
see10 we  replied4  8,i shall do no such
 thing10 answered the individual from   
within1 8until ,i know who you are40    
8,we are travellers10 said ,i1 8from    
,seville40#8 8,travellers1 are you80    
said the voice2 8why did you not tell   
me so before8  ,i am not porter at this 
house to keep out travellers4  ,jesus   
,maria knows we have not so many of them
 that we need repulse any4  ,enter1     
cavalier1 and welcome1 you and your     
company40    ,he opened the gate and    
admitted us into a spacious courtyard1  
and then  forthwith again secured the   
gate with various bolts and bars4  8,are
 you  afraid that the ,carlists should  
pay you a visit10 ,i demanded1 8that you
  take so much precaution80  8,it is not
 the ,carlists we are afraid of10       
replied the porter2 8they have been here
 already1 and did us no damage          

whatever4  ,it is certain scoundrels of 
this town that we are afraid of1  who   
have a spite against the master of the  
house1 and would murder both  him and   
his family1 could they but find an      
opportunity40    ,i was about to inquire
 the cause of this enmity1 when a thick 
bulky man1  bearing a light in his hand1
 came running down a stone staircase1   
which  led into the interior of the     
building4  ,two or three females1 also  
bearing lights1 followed him4  ,he      
stopped on the lowest stair4  8,whom    
have we here80 he exclaimed2 then       
advancing the lamp which he bore1 the   
light fell full upon my face4  8,ola60  
he exclaimed2 8is it you8  ,only        
think10 said he1 turning to the female  
who stood next him1 a  dark-featured    
person1 stout as himself1 and about his 
own age1 which  might border upon fifty2
 8only think1 my dear1 that at the very 
moment we  were wishing for a guest1 an 
,englishman should be standing before   
our  doors1 for ,i should know an       

,englishman at a mile's distance1 even  
in the  dark4  ,juanito10 cried he to   
the porter1 8open not the gate any more 
to-night1 whoever may ask for admission4
  ,should the nationals come to  make   
any disturbance1 tell them that the son 
of ,belington #bcj is in the  house     
ready to attack them sword in hand      
unless they retire2 and should  other   
travellers arrive1 which is not likely1 
inasmuch as we have seen  none for a    
month past1 say that we have no room1   
all our apartments being  occupied by an
 ,english gentleman and his company40   
,i soon found that my friend the        
posadero was a most egregious ,carlist4 
,before ,i had finished supper--during  
which1 both himself and all his  family 
were present1 surrounding the little    
table at which ,i sat1 and  observing my
 every motion1 particularly the manner  
in which ,i handled my  knife and fork  
and conveyed the food to my mouth--he   
commenced talking  politics4  8,i am of 
no particular opinion1 ,don ,jorge10    

said he1 for he  had inquired my name in
 order that he might address me in a    
suitable  manner2 8,i am of no          
particular opinion1 and ,i hold neither 
for ,king  ,carlos nor for the chica    
,isabel3 nevertheless1 ,i lead the life 
of a dog  in this accursed ,cristino    
town1 which ,i would have left long ago1
 had  it not been the place of my birth1
 and did ,i but know whither to betake  
myself4  ,ever since the troubles have  
commenced1 ,i have been afraid to  stir 
into the street1 for no sooner do the   
canaille of the town see me  turning    
round a corner1 than they forthwith     
exclaim1 #8,halloo1 the  ,carlist6' and 
then there is a run and a rush1 and     
stones and cudgels are  in great        
requisition2 so that unless ,i can      
escape home1 which is no easy  matter1  
seeing that ,i weigh eighteen stone1 my 
life is poured out in the  street1 which
 is neither decent nor convenient1 as ,i
 think you will  acknowledge1 ,don      
,jorge4  ,you see that young man10 he   

continued1  pointing to a tall swarthy  
youth who stood behind my chair1        
officiating  as waiter2 8he is my fourth
 son1 is married1 and does not live in  
the  house1 but about a hundred yards   
down the street4  ,he was summoned in a 
hurry to wait upon your worship1 as is  
his duty3 know1 however1 that he  has   
come at the peril of his life4  ,before 
he leaves this house1 he must  peep out 
into the street to see if the coast is  
clear1 and then he must  run like a     
partridge to his own door4  ,carlists6  
why should they call my  family and     
myself ,carlists8  ,it is true that my  
eldest son was a friar1  and when the   
convents were suppressed1 betook himself
 to the royal ranks1  in which he has   
been fighting upwards of three years2   
could ,i help that8  ,nor was it my     
fault1 ,i trow1 that my second son      
enlisted with ,gomez and  the royalists 
when they entered ,cordova4  ,god       
prosper him1 ,i say2 but ,i  did not bid
 him go6  ,so far from being a ,carlist1

 it was ,i who persuaded  this very lad 
who is present to remain here1 though he
 would fain have  gone with his brother1
 for he is a brave lad and a true       
,christian4  #8,stay  at home1' said ,i1
 #8for what can ,i do without you8  ,who
 is to wait upon  the guests when it    
pleases ,god to send them8  ,stay at    
home1 at least till  your brother1 my   
third son1 comes back2 for1 to my shame 
be it spoken1  ,don ,jorge1 ,i have a   
son a soldier and a sergeant in the     
,cristino  armies1 sorely against his   
own inclination1 poor fellow1 for he    
likes not  the military life1 and ,i    
have been soliciting his discharge for  
years2  indeed1 ,i have counselled him  
to maim himself1 in order that he might 
procure his liberty forthwith4  ,so ,i  
said to this lad1 #8,stay at home1 my   
child1 till your brother comes to take  
your place and prevent our bread  being 
eaten by strangers1 who would perhaps   
sell me and betray me2' so my  son staid
 at home1 as you see1 ,don ,jorge1 at my

 request1 and yet they  call me a       
,carlist60    8,gomez and his bands have
 lately been in ,cordova10 #bcb said ,i2
 8of  course you were present at all    
that occurred3 how did they comport     
themselves80    8,bravely well10 replied
 the innkeeper1 8bravely well1 and ,i   
wish they  were here still4  ,i hold    
with neither side1 as ,i told you       
before1 ,don  ,jorge1 but ,i confess ,i 
never felt greater pleasure in my life  
than when  they entered the gate4  ,and 
then to see the dogs of nationals flying
  through the streets to save their     
lives--that was a sight1 ,don ,jorge4   
,those who met me then at the corner    
forgot to shout1 #8,hola6  ,carlista6'  
and ,i heard not a word about           
cudgelling4  ,some jumped from  the wall
 and ran no one knows where1 whilst the 
rest retired to the house  of the       
,inquisition1 which they had fortified1 
and there they shut  themselves up4     
,now you must know1 ,don ,jorge1 that   
all the ,carlist  chiefs lodged at my   

house--,gomez1 ,cabrera1 and the        
,sawyer2 and it chanced  that ,i was    
talking to my ,lord ,gomez in this very 
room in which we are  now1 when in came 
,cabrera in a mighty fury--he is a small
 man1 ,don  ,jorge1 but he is as active 
as a wild cat and as fierce4  #8,the    
canaille1' said he1 #8in the ,casa of   
the ,inquisition refuse to  surrender2  
give but the order1 general1 and ,i will
 scale the walls with  my men1 and put  
them all to the sword4'  ,but ,gomez    
said1 #8,no1 we must not  spill blood if
 we can avoid it4  ,order a few muskets 
to be fired at them2  that will be      
sufficient6'  ,and so it proved1 ,don   
,jorge1 for after a few  discharges     
their hearts failed them1 and they      
surrendered at discretion3  whereupon   
their arms were taken from them1 and    
they were permitted to  return to their 
own houses4  ,but as soon as ever the   
,carlists departed1  these fellows      
became as bold as ever1 and it is now   
once more1 #8,hola6  ,carlista6' when   

they see me turning the corner2 and it  
is for fear of  them that my son must   
run like a partridge to his own home1   
now that he  has done waiting on your   
worship1 lest they meet him in the      
street1 and  kill him with their        
knives60    8,you tell me that you were 
acquainted with ,gomez3 what kind of man
 might  he be80    8,a middle-sized     
man10 replied the innkeeper2 8grave and 
dark4  ,but the  most remarkable        
personage in appearance of them all was 
the ,sawyer3 he is  a kind of giant1 so 
tall1 that when he entered the doorway  
he invariably  struck his head against  
the lintel4  ,the one ,i liked least of 
all was one  ,palillos1 who is a gloomy 
savage ruffian1 whom ,i knew when he was
 a  postilion4  ,many is the time that  
he has been at my house of old2 he is   
now captain of the ,manchegan thieves1  
for1 though he calls himself a          
royalist1 he is neither more nor less   
than a thief4  ,it is a disgrace to  the
 cause that such as he should be        

permitted to mix with honourable and    
brave men4  ,i hate that fellow1 ,don   
,jorge3 it is owing to him that ,i  have
 so few customers4  ,travellers are1 at 
present1 afraid to pass  through ,la    
,mancha1 lest they fall into his hands4 
,i wish he were hanged1  ,don ,jorge1   
and whether by ,cristinos or ,royalists1
 ,i care not40    8,you recognized me at
 once for an ,englishman10 said ,i2 8do 
many of my  countrymen visit ,cordova80 
8,toma60 said the landlord1 8they are my
 best customers2 ,i have had            
,englishmen in this house of all grades1
 from the son of ,belington to a  young 
medico1 who cured my daughter1 the chica
 here1 of the earache4  ,how should ,i  
not know an ,englishman8  ,there were   
two with ,gomez1 serving  as volunteers4
  ,vaya3 que gente6 #bcd what noble     
horses they rode1  and how they         
scattered their gold about6  ,they      
brought with them a  ,portuguese1 who   
was much of a gentleman1 but very poor2 
it was said that  he was one of ,don    

,miguel's people1 and that these        
,englishmen supported  him for the love 
they bore to royalty4  ,he was          
continually singing--        #8,el ,rey 
chegou--,el ,rey chegou1      ,e en     
,belem desembarcou6' #bce;a    ,those   
were merry days1 ,don ,jorge4           
,by-the-by1 ,i forgot to ask your       
worship of what opinion you are80       
,the next morning whilst ,i was         
dressing1 the old ,genoese entered my   
room3  8,signore10 said he1 8,i am come 
to bid you farewell4  ,i am about to    
return to ,seville forthwith with the   
horses40    8,wherefore in such a       
hurry80 ,i replied4  8,assuredly you had
 better tarry  till to-morrow2 both the 
animals and yourself require rest4      
,repose  yourselves to-day1 and ,i will 
defray the expense40    8,thank you1    
,signore1 but we will depart forthwith1 
for there is no  tarrying in this       
house40    8,what is the matter with the
 house80 ,i inquired4    8,i find no    
fault with the house10 replied the      

,genoese2 8it is the people  who keep it
 of whom ,i complain4  ,about an hour   
since1 ,i went down to get  my          
breakfast1 and there1 in the kitchen1 ,i
 found the master and all his  family4  
,well1 ,i sat down and called for       
chocolate1 which they brought  me1 but  
ere ,i could despatch it1 the master    
fell to talking politics4  ,he          
commenced by telling me that he held    
with neither side1 but he is as rank  a 
,carlist as ,carlos ,quinto3 #bce;b for 
no sooner did he find that ,i was  of   
the other opinion than he glared at me  
like a wild beast4  ,you must  know1    
,signore1 that in the time of the old   
constitution ,i kept a  coffee-house at 
,seville1 which was frequented by all   
the principal  liberals1 and was1       
indeed1 the cause of my ruin2 for1 as ,i
 admired their  opinions1 ,i gave my    
customers whatever credit they required1
 both with  regard to coffee and        
liqueurs1 so that by the time the       
constitution was  put down and despotism

 re-established1 ,i had trusted them    
with all ,i had4  ,it is possible that  
many of them would have paid me1 for ,i 
believe they  harboured no evil         
intention2 but the persecution came1 the
 liberals took  to flight1 and1 as was  
natural enough1 thought more of         
providing for  their own safety than of 
paying me for my coffee and liqueurs2   
nevertheless1 ,i am a friend to their   
system1 and never hesitate to say  so4  
,so the landlord1 as ,i told your       
worship before1 when he found that ,i   
was of this opinion1 glared at me like a
 wild beast4  #8,get out of my  house1' 
said he1 #8for ,i will have no spies    
here2' and thereupon he spoke           
disrespectfully of the young ,queen     
,isabel and of ,christina1 who1         
notwithstanding she is a ,neapolitan1   
#bcf;a ,i consider as my  countrywoman4 
,hearing this1 your worship1 ,i confess 
that ,i lost my  temper and returned the
 compliment1 by saying that ,carlos was 
a knave1  and the ,princess of ,beira   

#bcf;b no better than she should be4  ,i
 then  prepared to swallow the          
chocolate1 but ere ,i could bring it to 
my lips1  the woman of the house1 who is
 a still ranker ,carlist than her       
husband1  if that be possible1 coming up
 to me struck the cup into the air as   
high  as the ceiling1 exclaiming1       
#8,begone1 dog of a negro2 you shall    
taste  nothing more in my house4  ,may  
you be hanged even as a swine is        
hanged6'  ,so your worship sees that it 
is impossible for me to remain here any 
longer4  ,i forgot to say that the knave
 of a landlord told me that you  had    
confessed yourself to be of the same    
politics as himself1 or he would  not   
have harboured you40    8,my good man10 
said ,i1 8,i am invariably of the       
politics of the people at  whose table  
,i sit1 or beneath whose roof ,i sleep2 
at least ,i never say  anything which   
can lead them to suspect the contrary2  
by pursuing which  system ,i have more  
than once escaped a bloody pillow1 and  

having the wine  ,i drank spiced with   
sublimate40          ,,chapter ,,xvii4  
,cordova--,moors of ,barbary--,the      
,english--,an ,old ,priest--,the ,roman 
,breviary--,the  ,dovecote--,the ,holy  
,office--,judaism--,desecration of      
,dovecotes--,the ,innkeeper's           
,proposal4    ,little can be said with  
respect to the town of ,cordova1 which  
is a mean1  dark1 gloomy place1 full of 
narrow streets and alleys1 without      
squares or  public buildings worthy of  
attention1 save and except its far-famed
  cathedral2 its situation1 however1 is 
beautiful and picturesque4  ,before  it 
runs the ,guadalquivir1 which1 though in
 this part shallow and full of          
sandbanks1 is still a delightful stream2
 whilst behind it rise the steep  sides 
of the ,sierra ,morena1 planted up to   
the top with olive groves4  ,the  town  
or city is surrounded on all sides by   
lofty ,moorish walls1 which may  measure
 about three-quarters of a league in    
circumference2 unlike  ,seville1 and    

most other towns in ,spain1 it has no   
suburbs4                                
,picture3 ,mosque at ,cordova    ,i have
 said that ,cordova has no remarkable   
edifices1 save its cathedral1  yet this 
is perhaps the most extraordinary place 
of worship in the world4  ,it was       
originally1 as is well known1 a mosque1 
built in the brightest  days of ,arabian
 dominion in ,spain4  ,in shape it was  
quadrangular1 with a  low roof1         
supported by an infinity of small and   
delicately rounded marble  pillars1 many
 of which still remain1 and present at  
first sight the  appearance of a marble 
grove2 the greater part1 however1 were  
removed  when the ,christians1 after the
 expulsion of the ,moslems1 essayed to  
convert the mosque into a cathedral1    
#bci which they effected in part by  the
 erection of a dome1 and by clearing an 
open space for a choir4  ,as it  at     
present exists1 the temple appears to   
belong partly to ,mahomet1 and  partly  
to the ,nazarene2 and though this       

jumbling together of massive  ,gothic   
architecture with the light and delicate
 style of the ,arabians  produces an    
effect somewhat bizarre1 it still       
remains a magnificent and  glorious     
edifice1 and well calculated to excite  
feelings of awe and  veneration within  
the bosom of those who enter it4    ,the
 ,moors of ,barbary seem to care but    
little for the exploits of their        
ancestors3 their minds are centred in   
the things of the present day1 and  only
 so far as those things regard          
themselves individually4  ,disinterested
 enthusiasm1 that truly distinguishing  
mark of a noble mind1  and admiration   
for what is great1 good1 and grand1 they
 appear to be  totally incapable of     
feeling4  ,it is astonishing with what  
indifference  they stray amongst the    
relics of ancient ,moorish grandeur in  
,spain4  ,no  feelings of exultation    
seem to be excited by the proof of what 
the ,moor  once was1 nor of regret at   
the consciousness of what he now is4    

,more  interesting to them are their    
perfumes1 their papouches1 their dates1 
and  their silks of ,fez and ,maraks1   
#bdj;a to dispose of which they visit   
,andalusia2 and yet the generality of   
these men are far from being  ignorant1 
and have both heard and read of what was
 passing in ,spain in  the old time4  ,i
 was once conversing with a ,moor at    
,madrid1 with whom ,i  was very         
intimate1 about the ,alhambra of        
,granada1 which he had visited4  8,did  
you not weep10 said ,i1 8when you passed
 through the courts1 and  thought of the
 ,abencerrages80 #bdj;b  8,no10 said he1
 8,i did not weep2  wherefore should ,i 
weep80  8,and why did you visit the     
,alhambra80 ,i  demanded4  8,i visited  
it10 he replied1 8because1 being at     
,granada on my  own affairs1 one of your
 countrymen requested me to accompany   
him  thither1 that ,i might explain some
 of the inscriptions4  ,i should        
certainly not have gone of my own       
accord1 for the hill on which it stands 

is steep40  ,and yet this man could     
compose verses1 and was by no means a   
contemptible poet4  ,once at ,cordova1  
whilst ,i was in the cathedral1 three   
,moors entered it1 and proceeded slowly 
across its floor in the direction  of a 
gate1 which stood at the opposite side4 
,they took no farther notice  of what   
was around them than by slightly        
glancing once or twice at the  pillars1 
one of them exclaiming1 8,huje del      
,mselmeen1 hudje del  ,mselmeen0 7things
 of the ,moors1 things of the ,moors71  
and showed no  other respect for the    
place where ,abderrahman the            
,magnificent prostrated  himself of old1
 than facing about on arriving at the   
farther door and  making their egress   
backwards2 yet these men were hajis and 
talibs1  #bda;a men likewise of much    
gold and silver--men who had read1 who  
had  travelled1 who had seen ,mecca1 and
 the great city of ,negroland4 #bda;b   
,i remained in ,cordova much longer than
 ,i had originally intended1 owing  to  

the accounts which ,i was continually   
hearing of the unsafe state of  the     
roads to ,madrid4  ,i soon ransacked    
every nook and cranny of this  ancient  
town1 formed various acquaintances      
amongst the populace1 which is  my      
general practice on arriving at a       
strange place4  ,i more than once       
ascended the side of the ,sierra        
,morena1 in which excursions ,i was     
accompanied by the son of my host1 the  
tall lad of whom ,i have already        
spoken4  ,the people of the house1 who  
had imbibed the idea that ,i was of  the
 same way of thinking as themselves1    
were exceedingly courteous2 it is  true1
 that in return ,i was compelled to     
listen to a vast deal of ,carlism1  in  
other words1 high treason against the   
ruling powers in ,spain1 to  which1     
however1 ,i submitted with patience4    
8,don ,jorgito10 said the  landlord to  
me one day1 8,i love the ,english2 they 
are my best customers4  ,it is a pity   
that there is not greater union between 

,spain and ,england1  and that more     
,english do not visit us4  ,why should  
there not be a  marriage8  ,the king    
will speedily be at ,madrid4  ,why      
should there not be  bodas between the  
son of ,don ,carlos and the heiress of  
,england80    8,it would certainly tend 
to bring a considerable number of       
,english to  ,spain10 said ,i1 8and it  
would not be the first time that the son
 of a  ,carlos has married a ,princess  
of ,england40 #bdb;a    ,the host mused 
for a moment1 and then exclaimed1       
8,carracho1 ,don  ,jorgito1 if this     
marriage could be brought about1 both   
the king and  myself should have cause  
to fling our caps in the air40    ,the  
house or posada in which ,i had taken up
 my abode was exceedingly  spacious1    
containing an infinity of apartments1   
both large and small1 the  greater part 
of which were1 however1 unfurnished4    
,the chamber in which ,i  was lodged    
stood at the end of an immensely long   
corridor1 of the kind so  admirably     

described in the wondrous tale of       
,udolfo4 #bdb;b  ,for a day or  two     
after my arrival ,i believed myself to  
be the only lodger in the  house4  ,one 
morning1 however1 ,i beheld a           
strange-looking old man seated  in the  
corridor1 by one of the windows1 reading
 intently in a small thick  volume4  ,he
 was clad in garments of coarse blue    
cloth1 and wore a loose  spencer over a 
waistcoat adorned with various rows of  
small buttons of  mother of pearl2 he   
had spectacles upon his nose4  ,i could 
perceive1  notwithstanding he was       
seated1 that his stature bordered upon  
the  gigantic4  8,who is that person80  
said ,i to the landlord1 whom ,i        
presently  met2 8is he also a guest of  
yours80  8,not exactly1 ,don ,jorge de  
mi  alma10 #bdc;a replied he4  8,i can  
scarcely call him a guest1 inasmuch as  
,i gain nothing by him1 though he is    
staying at my house4  ,you must know1   
,don ,jorge1 that he is one of two      
priests who officiate at a large        

village #bdc;b at some slight distance  
from this place4  ,so it came to  pass1 
that when the soldiers of ,gomez entered
 the village1 his reverence  went to    
meet them1 dressed in full canonicals1  
with a book in his hand1  and he1 at    
their bidding1 proclaimed ,carlos       
,quinto #bdc;c in the  market-place4    
,the other priest1 however1 was a       
desperate liberal1 a  downright negro1  
and upon him the royalists laid their   
hands1 and were  proceeding to hang him4
  ,his reverence1 however1 interfered1  
and obtained  mercy for his colleague1  
on condition that he should cry ,viva   
,carlos  ,quinto6 which the latter did  
in order to save his life4  ,well1 no   
sooner  had the royalists departed from 
these parts than the black priest mounts
  his mule1 comes to ,cordova1 and      
informs against his reverence1          
notwithstanding that he had saved his   
life4  ,so his reverence was seized  and
 brought hither to ,cordova1 and would  
assuredly have been thrown into  the    

common prison as a ,carlist1 had ,i not 
stepped forward and offered to  be      
surety that he should not quit the      
place1 but should come forward at  any  
time to answer whatever charge might be 
brought against him2 and he  is now in  
my house1 though guest ,i cannot call   
him1 for he is not of the  slightest    
advantage to me1 as his very food is    
daily brought from the  country1 and    
that consists only of a few eggs and a  
little milk and  bread4  ,as for his    
money1 ,i have never seen the colour of 
it1  notwithstanding they tell me that  
he has buenas pesetas4  ,however1 he  is
 a holy man1 is continually reading and 
praying1 and is1 moreover1 of  the right
 opinion4  ,i therefore keep him in my  
house1 and would be bail  for him were  
he twenty times more of a skinflint than
 he seems to be40    ,the next day1 as  
,i was again passing through the        
corridor1 ,i observed the  old man in   
the same place1 and saluted him4  ,he   
returned my salutation  with much       

courtesy1 and closing the book1 placed  
it upon his knee1 as if  willing to     
enter into conversation4  ,after        
exchanging a word or two1 ,i  took up   
the book for the purpose of inspecting  
it4    8,you will hardly derive much    
instruction from that book1 ,don        
,jorge10  said the old man2 8you cannot 
understand it1 for it is not written in 
,english40    8,nor in ,spanish10 ,i    
replied4  8,but with respect to         
understanding the  book1 ,i cannot see  
what difficulty there can be in a thing 
so simple2 it  is only the ,roman       
breviary written in the ,latin tongue40 
8,do the ,english understand ,latin80   
exclaimed he4  8,vaya6  ,who would  have
 thought that it was possible for       
,lutherans to understand the  language  
of the church8  ,vaya6 the longer one   
lives the more one  learns40    8,how   
old may your reverence be80 ,i inquired4
    8,i am eighty years1 ,don ,jorge2   
eighty years1 and somewhat more40       
,such was the first conversation which  

passed between his reverence and        
myself4  ,he soon conceived no          
inconsiderable liking for me1 and       
favoured  me with no little of his      
company4  ,unlike our friend the        
landlord1 ,i  found him by no means     
inclined to talk politics1 which the    
more surprised  me1 knowing1 as ,i did1 
the decided and hazardous part which he 
had taken  on the late ,carlist         
irruption into the neighbourhood4  ,he  
took1 however1  great delight in        
discoursing on ecclesiastical subjects  
and the writings  of the fathers4    8,i
 have got a small library at home1 ,don 
,jorge1 which consists of all  the      
volumes of the fathers which ,i have    
been able to pick up1 and ,i find  the  
perusal of them a source of great       
amusement and comfort4  ,should  these  
dark days pass by1 ,don ,jorge1 and you 
should be in these parts1 ,i  hope you  
will look in upon me1 and ,i will show  
you my little library of  the fathers1  
and likewise my dovecote1 where ,i rear 

numerous broods of  pigeons1 which are  
also a source of much solace1 and at the
 same time of  profit40    8,i suppose  
by your dovecote10 said ,i1 8you mean   
your parish1 and by  rearing broods of  
pigeons1 you allude to the care you take
 of the souls  of your people1          
instilling therein the fear of ,god and 
obedience to his  revealed law1 which   
occupation must of course afford you    
much solace and  spiritual profit40     
8,i was not speaking metaphorically1    
,don ,jorge10 replied my companion2     
8and by rearing doves1 ,i mean neither  
more nor less than that ,i supply  the  
market of ,cordova with pigeons1 and    
occasionally that of ,seville2 for  my  
birds are very celebrated1 and plumper  
or fatter flesh than theirs ,i  believe 
cannot be found in the whole kingdom4   
,should you come to my  village1 you    
will doubtless taste them1 ,don ,jorge1 
at the venta where  you will put up1 for
 ,i suffer no dovecotes but my own      
within my district4  ,with respect to   

the souls of my parishioners1 ,i trust  
,i do my duty--,i  trust ,i do1 as far  
as in my power lies4  ,i always took    
great pleasure in  these spiritual      
matters1 and it was on that account that
 ,i attached  myself to the ,santa ,casa
 #bdf of ,cordova1 the duties of which  
,i  assisted to perform for a long      
period40    8,your reverence has been an
 inquisitor80 ,i exclaimed1 somewhat    
startled4    8,from my thirtieth year   
until the time of the suppression of the
 holy  office in these afflicted        
kingdoms40    8,you both surprise and   
delight me10 ,i exclaimed4  8,nothing   
could have  afforded me greater pleasure
 than to find myself conversing with a  
father  formerly attached to the holy   
house of ,cordova40    ,the old man     
looked at me steadfastly4  8,i          
understand you1 ,don ,jorge4  ,i  have  
long seen that you are one of us4  ,you 
are a learned and holy man2  and though 
you think fit to call yourself a        
,lutheran and an ,englishman1 ,i  have  

dived into your real condition4  ,no    
,lutheran would take the interest  in   
church matters which you do1 and with   
respect to your being an  ,englishman1  
none of that nation can speak           
,castilian1 much less ,latin4  ,i       
believe you to be one of us--a          
missionary priest2 and ,i am especially 
confirmed in that idea by your frequent 
conversation and interviews with  the   
,gitanos2 you appear to be labouring    
among them4  ,be1 however1 on  your     
guard1 ,don ,jorge2 trust not to        
,egyptian faith2 they are evil          
penitents1 whom ,i like not4  ,i would  
not advise you to trust them40    8,i do
 not intend10 ,i replied2 8especially   
with money4  ,but to return to  more    
important matters3--of what crimes did  
this holy house of ,cordova  take       
cognizance80    8,you are of course     
aware of the matters on which the holy  
office  exercises its functions4  ,i    
need scarcely mention sorcery1 ,judaism1
 and  certain carnal misdemeanours40    

8,with respect to sorcery10 said ,i1    
8what is your opinion of it8  ,is there 
in reality such a crime80    8,que s    
yo80 #bdg said the old man1 shrugging up
 his shoulders4  8,how  should ,i know8 
,the church has power1 ,don ,jorge1 or  
at least it had  power1 to punish for   
anything1 real or unreal2 and1 as it was
 necessary  to punish in order to prove 
that it had the power of punishing1 of  
what  consequence whether it punished   
for sorcery or any other crime80        
8,did many cases of sorcery occur within
 your own sphere of knowledge80    8,one
 or two1 ,don ,jorge3 they were by no   
means frequent4  ,the last that  ,i     
remember was a case which occurred in a 
convent at ,seville4  ,a certain  nun   
was in the habit of flying through the  
windows and about the garden  over the  
tops of the orange-trees4  ,declarations
 of various witnesses  were taken1 and  
the process was arranged with much      
formality3 the fact1 ,i  believe1 was   
satisfactorily proved4  ,of one thing ,i

 am certain1 that the  nun was          
punished40    8,were you troubled with  
much ,judaism in these parts80          
8,wooh6  ,nothing gave so much trouble  
to the ,santa ,casa as this same        
,judaism4  ,its shoots and ramifications
 are numerous1 not only in these  parts1
 but in all ,spain2 and it is singular  
enough1 that1 even among the            
priesthood1 instances of ,judaism of    
both kinds were continually coming to   
our knowledge1 which it was of course   
our duty to punish40    8,is there more 
than one species of ,judaism80 ,i       
demanded4    8,i have always arranged   
,judaism under two heads10 said the old 
man1 8the  black and the white3 by the  
black1 ,i mean the observance of the law
 of  ,moses in preference to the        
precepts of the church2 then there is   
the  white ,judaism1 which includes all 
kinds of heresy1 such as ,lutheranism1  
freemasonry1 and the like40    8,i can  
easily conceive10 said ,i1 8that many of
 the priesthood favoured  the principles

 of the ,reformation1 and that the minds
 of not a few had  been led astray by   
the deceitful lights of modern          
philosophy1 but it is  almost           
inconceivable to me that there should be
 ,jews amongst the  priesthood who      
follow in secret the rites and          
observances of the old law1  though ,i  
confess that ,i have been assured of the
 fact ere now40    8,plenty of ,judaism 
amongst the priesthood1 whether of the  
black or white  species2 no lack of it1 
,i assure you1 ,don ,jorge4  ,i remember
 once  searching the house of an        
ecclesiastic who was accused of the     
black  ,judaism1 and1 after much        
investigation1 we discovered beneath the
 floor a  wooden chest1 in which was a  
small shrine of silver1 inclosing three 
books in black hog-skin1 which1 on being
 opened1 were found to be books  of     
,jewish devotion1 written in ,hebrew    
characters1 and of great antiquity2  and
 on being questioned1 the culprit made  
no secret of his guilt1 but  rather     

gloried in it1 saying that there was no 
,god but one1 and  denouncing the       
adoration of ,maria ,santsima as rank   
idolatry40    8,and between ourselves1  
what is your own opinion of the         
adoration of this  same ,maria          
,santsima80    8,what is my opinion6    
,que s yo80 said the old man1 shrugging 
up his  shoulders still higher than on  
the former occasion2 8but ,i will tell  
you4  ,i think1 on consideration1 that  
it is quite right and proper2 why not8  
,let any one pay a visit to my church1  
and look at her as she stands  there1   
tan bonita1 tan guapita #bdi;a--so well 
dressed and so  genteel--with such      
pretty colours1 such red and white1 and 
he would  scarcely ask me why ,maria    
,santsima should not be adored4         
,moreover1  ,don ,jorgito mio1 this is a
 church matter1 and forms an important  
part  of the church system40    8,and   
now1 with respect to carnal             
misdemeanours4  ,did you take much      
cognizance of them80    8,amongst the   

laity1 not much2 we1 however1 kept a    
vigilant eye upon our  own body2 but1   
upon the whole1 were rather tolerant in 
these matters1  knowing that the        
infirmities of human nature are very    
great indeed4  ,we  rarely punished1    
save in cases where the glory of the    
church and loyalty  to ,maria ,santsima 
made punishment absolutely imperative40 
8,and what cases might those be80 ,i    
demanded4    8,i allude to the          
desecration of dovecotes1 ,don ,jorge1  
and the  introduction therein of strange
 flesh1 for purposes neither seemly nor 
convenient40    8,your reverence will   
excuse me for not yet perfectly         
understanding40    8,i mean1 ,don       
,jorge1 certain acts of flagitiousness  
practised by the  clergy in lone and    
remote palomares in olive-grounds and   
gardens2  actions denounced1 ,i believe1
 by the holy ,pablo in his first letter 
to  ,pope ,sixtus4 #bdi;b  ,you         
understand me now1 ,don ,jorge1 for you 
are  learned in church matters40    8,i 

think ,i understand you10 ,i replied4   
,after remaining several days more at   
,cordova1 ,i determined to proceed on   
my journey to ,madrid1 though the roads 
were still said to be highly  insecure4 
,i1 however1 saw but little utility in  
tarrying and awaiting a  more tranquil  
state of affairs1 which might never     
arrive4  ,i therefore  consulted with   
the landlord respecting the best means  
of making the  journey4  8,don          
,jorgito10 he replied1 8,i think ,i can 
tell you4  ,you say  you are anxious to 
depart1 and ,i never wish to keep guests
 in my house  longer than is agreeable  
to them2 to do so would not become a    
,christian  innkeeper4  ,i leave such   
conduct to ,moors1 ,cristinos1 and      
,negros4  ,i  will further you on your  
journey1 ,don ,jorge3 ,i have a plan in 
my head  which ,i had resolved to       
propose to you before you questioned me4
  ,there  is my wife's brother1 who has 
two horses which he occasionally lets   
out  for hire2 you shall hire them1 ,don

 ,jorge1 and he himself shall attend    
you to take care of you and to comfort  
you1 and to talk to you1 and you  shall 
pay him forty dollars for the journey4  
,moreover1 as there are  thieves upon   
the route1 and malos sujetos #bej such  
as ,palillos and  his family1 you shall 
make an engagement and a covenant1 ,don 
,jorge1  that provided you are robbed   
and stripped on the route1 and the      
horses of  my wife's brother are taken  
from him by the thieves1 you shall1 on  
arriving at ,madrid1 make good any      
losses to which my wife's brother may   
be subject in following you4  ,this is  
my plan1 ,don ,jorge1 which no  doubt   
will meet with your worship's           
approbation1 as it is devised solely    
for your benefit1 and not with any view 
of lucre or interest either to me  or   
mine4  ,you will find my wife's brother 
pleasant company on the route2  he is a 
very respectable man1 and one of the    
right opinion1 and has  likewise        
travelled much2 for between ourselves1  

,don ,jorge1 he is  something of a      
contrabandista1 and frequently smuggles 
diamonds and  precious stones from      
,portugal1 which he disposes of         
sometimes in ,cordova  and sometimes at 
,madrid4  ,he is acquainted with all the
 short cuts1 all  the atajos1 ,don      
,jorge1 and is much respected in all the
 ventas and  posadas on the way4  ,so   
now give me your hand upon the bargain1 
and ,i  will forthwith repair to my     
wife's brother to tell him to get ready 
to  set out with your worship the day   
after to-morrow40          ,,chapter    
,,xviii4      ,departure from           
,cordova--,the ,contrabandista--,jewish 
,cunning--,arrival at  ,madrid4    ,one 
fine morning ,i departed from ,cordova1 
in company with the  contrabandista2 the
 latter was mounted on a handsome       
animal1 something  between a horse and a
 pony1 which he called a jaca1 of that  
breed for  which ,cordova is celebrated4
  ,it was of a bright bay colour1 with a
 star  in its forehead1 with strong but 

elegant limbs1 and a long black tail    
which swept the ground4  ,the other     
animal1 which was destined to carry me  
to ,madrid1 was not quite so            
prepossessing in its appearance4  ,in   
more  than one respect it closely       
resembled a hog1 particularly in the    
curving  of its back1 the shortness of  
its neck1 and the manner in which it    
kept  its head nearly in contact with   
the ground2 it had also the tail of a   
hog1 and meandered over the ground much 
like one4  ,its coat more  resembled    
coarse bristles than hair2 and with     
respect to size1 ,i have  seen many a   
,westphalian hog quite as tall4  ,i was 
not altogether  satisfied with the idea 
of exhibiting myself on the back of this
 most  extraordinary quadruped1 and     
looked wistfully on the respectable     
animal  on which my guide had thought   
proper to place himself4  ,he           
interpreted my  glances1 and gave me to 
understand that as he was destined to   
carry the  baggage1 he was entitled to  

the best horse--a plea too well grounded
 on  reason for me to make any objection
 to it4    ,i found the contrabandista  
by no means such pleasant company on the
  road as ,i had been led to suppose he 
would prove from the representation  of 
my host of ,cordova4  ,throughout the   
day he sat sullen and silent1 and       
rarely replied to my questions1 save by 
a monosyllable2 at night1  however1     
after having eaten well and drunk       
proportionably at my expense1  he would 
occasionally become more sociable and   
communicative4  8,i have  given up      
smuggling10 said he1 on one of these    
occasions1 8owing to a  trick which was 
played upon me the last time that ,i was
 at ,lisbon3 a ,jew1  whom ,i had been  
long acquainted with1 palmed upon me a  
false brilliant  for a real stone4  ,he 
effected it in the most extraordinary   
manner1 for ,i  am not such a novice as 
not to know a true diamond when ,i see  
one2 but  the ,jew appears to have had  
two1 with which he played most adroitly1

  keeping the valuable one for which ,i 
bargained1 and substituting therefor    
another which1 though an excellent      
imitation1 was not worth four dollars4  
,i did not discover the trick until ,i  
was across the border1 and upon my      
hurrying back1 the culprit was not to be
 found2 his priest1 however1 told  me   
that he was just dead and buried1 which 
was of course false1 as ,i saw  him     
laughing in the corners of his eyes4  ,i
 renounced the contraband  trade from   
that moment40    ,it is not my intention
 to describe minutely the various       
incidents of this  journey4  ,leaving at
 our right the mountains of ,jaen1 we   
passed through  ,andujar and ,bailen1   
and on the third day reached ,carolina1 
a small but  beautiful town on the      
skirts of the ,sierra ,morena1 inhabited
 by the  descendants of ,german         
colonists4  ,two leagues from this place
 we entered  the defile of              
,despeaperros1 which1 even in quiet     
times1 has an evil  name1 on account of 

the robberies which are continually     
being perpetrated  within its recesses1 
but at the period of which ,i am        
speaking1 it was  said to be swarming   
with banditti4  ,we of course expected  
to be robbed1  perhaps stripped and     
otherwise ill treated2 but ,providence  
here  manifested itself4  ,it appeared  
that the day before our arrival1 the    
banditti of the pass had committed a    
dreadful robbery and murder1 by  which  
they gained forty thousand reals4 #bed;a
  ,this booty probably  contented them  
for a time3 certain it is that we were  
not interrupted4  ,we did not even see a
 single individual in the pass1 though  
we  occasionally heard whistles and loud
 cries4  ,we entered ,la ,mancha1 where 
,i expected to fall into the hands of   
,palillos and ,orejita4 #bed;b          
,providence again showed itself4  ,it   
had been delicious weather2 suddenly    
the ,lord breathed forth a frozen blast1
 the severity of which was almost       
intolerable4  ,no human being but       

ourselves ventured forth4  ,we traversed
  snow-covered plains1 and passed       
through villages and towns to all       
appearance deserted4  ,the robbers kept 
close in their caves and hovels1  but   
the cold nearly killed us4  ,we reached 
,aranjuez late on  ,christmas-day1 and  
,i got into the house of an ,englishman1
 where ,i  swallowed nearly a pint of   
brandy3 it affected me no more than warm
  water4    ,on the following day we    
arrived at ,madrid1 where we had the    
good fortune  to find everything        
tranquil and quiet4  ,the contrabandista
 continued  with me for two days1 at the
 end of which time he returned to       
,cordova  upon the uncouth animal on    
which ,i had ridden throughout the      
journey4  ,i  had myself purchased the  
jaca1 whose capabilities ,i had seen on 
the  route1 and which ,i imagined might 
prove useful in future journeys4  ,the  
contrabandista was so satisfied with the
 price which ,i gave him for his  beast1
 and the general treatment which he had 

experienced at my hands  during the time
 of his attendance upon me1 that he     
would fain have  persuaded me to retain 
him as a servant1 assuring me that1 in  
the event  of my compliance1 he would   
forget his wife and children and follow 
me  through the world4  ,i declined1    
however1 to accede to his request1      
though  ,i was in need of a domestic2 ,i
 therefore sent him back to ,cordova1   
where1  as ,i subsequently learned1 he  
died suddenly1 about a week after his   
return4    ,the manner of his death was 
singular3 one day he took out his purse1
 and1  after counting his money1 said to
 his wife1 8,i have made ninety-five    
dollars by this journey with the        
,englishman and by the sale of the      
jaca2 this ,i could easily double by one
 successful venture in the  smuggling   
lay4  ,to-morrow ,i will depart for     
,lisbon to buy diamonds4  ,i  wonder if 
the beast requires to be shod80  ,he    
then started up and made  for the door1 
with the intention of going to the      

stable2 ere1 however1  his foot had     
crossed the threshold1 he fell dead on  
the floor4  ,such is  the course of the 
world4  ,well said the wise king1 8,let 
no one boast of  the morrow40           
,,chapter ,,xix4      ,arrival at       
,madrid--,maria ,diaz--,printing of the 
,testament--,my  ,project--,andalusian  
,steed--,servant wanted--,an            
,application--,antonio                  
,buchini--,general ,cordova--,principles
 of ,honour4    ,on my arrival at       
,madrid ,i did not repair to my former  
lodgings in the  ,calle de la ,zarza1   
but took others in the ,calle de        
,santiago1 in the  vicinity of the      
palace4  ,the name of the hostess 7for  
there was1 properly  speaking1 no host7 
was ,maria ,diaz1 of whom ,i shall take 
the present  opportunity of saying      
something in particular4    ,she was a  
woman of about thirty-five years of age1
 rather good-looking1  and with a       
physiognomy every lineament of which    
bespoke intelligence of  no common      

order4  ,her eyes were keen and         
penetrating1 though occasionally        
clouded with a somewhat melancholy      
expression4  ,there was a particular    
calmness and quiet in her general       
demeanour1 beneath which1 however1      
slumbered a firmness of spirit and an   
energy of action which were  instantly  
displayed whenever necessary4  ,a       
,spaniard1 and1 of course1 a  ,catholic1
 she was possessed of a spirit of       
toleration and liberality  which would  
have done honour to individuals much her
 superior in station4  ,in this woman1  
during the remainder of my sojourn in   
,spain1 ,i found a  firm and constant   
friend1 and occasionally a most discreet
 adviser4  ,she  entered into all my    
plans1 ,i will not say with enthusiasm1 
which1 indeed1  formed no part of her   
character1 but with cordiality and      
sincerity1  forwarding them to the      
utmost of her ability4  ,she never      
shrank from me  in the hour of danger   
and persecution1 but stood my friend    

notwithstanding the many inducements    
which were held out to her by my        
enemies to desert or betray me4  ,her   
motives were of the noblest             
kind--friendship1 and a proper feeling  
of the duties of hospitality3 no        
prospect1 no hope of self-interest1     
however remote1 influenced this         
admirable woman in her conduct towards  
me4  ,honour to ,maria ,diaz1 the       
quiet1 dauntless1 clever ,castilian     
female6  ,i were an ingrate not to      
speak well of her1 for richly has she   
deserved an eulogy in the humble  pages 
of ,the ,bible in ,spain4    ,she was a 
native of ,villa ,seca1 a hamlet of ,new
 ,castile1 situated in what  is called  
the ,sagra1 #beg at about three leagues'
 distance from ,toledo4  ,her father was
 an architect of some celebrity1        
particularly skilled in  erecting       
bridges4  ,at a very early age she      
married a respectable yeoman  of ,villa 
,seca1 ,lopez by name1 by whom she had  
three sons4  ,on the death  of her      

father1 which occurred about five years 
previous to the time of  which ,i am    
speaking1 she removed to ,madrid1 partly
 for the purpose of  educating her      
children1 and partly in the hope of     
obtaining from the  government a        
considerable sum of money for which it  
stood indebted to her  father at the    
time of his decease1 for various useful 
and ornamental  works1 principally in   
the neighbourhood of ,aranjuez4  ,the   
justness of her  claim was at once      
acknowledged2 but1 alas6 no money was   
forthcoming1 the  royal treasury being  
empty4  ,her hopes of earthly happiness 
were now  concentrated in her children4 
,the two youngest were still of a very  
tender age2 but the eldest1 ,juan ,jos  
,lopez1 a lad of about sixteen1 was     
bidding fair to realize the warmest     
hopes of his affectionate mother4  ,he  
had devoted himself to the arts1 in     
which he had made such progress that  he
 had already become the favourite pupil 
of his celebrated namesake  ,lopez1 #beh

 the best painter of modern ,spain4     
,such was ,maria ,diaz1 who1  according 
to a custom formerly universal in       
,spain1 and still very  prevalent1      
retained the name of her maidenhood     
though married4  ,such was  ,maria ,diaz
 and her family4    ,one of my first    
cares was to wait on ,mr4 ,villiers1 who
 received me with  his usual kindness4  
,i asked him whether he considered that 
,i might  venture to commence printing  
the ,scriptures without any more        
applications  to government4  ,his reply
 was satisfactory3 8,you obtained the   
permission  of the government of        
,isturitz10 said he1 8which was a much  
less liberal  one than the present4  ,i 
am a witness to the promise made to you 
by the  former ministers1 which ,i      
consider sufficient4  ,you had best     
commence and  complete the work as soon 
as possible1 without any fresh          
application2 and  should any one attempt
 to interrupt you1 you have only to come
 to me1  whom you may command at any    

time40  ,so ,i went away with a light   
heart1  and forthwith made preparation  
for the execution of the object which   
had  brought me to ,spain4    ,i shall  
not enter here into unnecessary details1
 which could possess but  little        
interest for the reader2 suffice it to  
say that1 within three  months from this
 time1 an edition of the ,new           
,testament1 consisting of  five thousand
 copies1 was published at ,madrid4  ,the
 work was printed at  the establishment 
of ,mr4 ,borrego1 #bei;a a well-known   
writer on political  economy1 and       
proprietor and editor of an influential 
newspaper called ,el  ,espaol4  ,to this
 gentleman ,i had been recommended by   
,isturitz himself1  on the day of my    
interview with him4  ,that unfortunate  
minister had1  indeed1 the highest      
esteem for ,borrego1 and had intended   
raising him to  the station of minister 
of finance1 when the revolution of ,la  
,granja  occurring1 of course rendered  
abortive this project1 with perhaps many

  others of a similar kind which he     
might have formed4    ,the ,spanish     
version of the ,new ,testament which was
 thus published had  been made many     
years before by a certain ,padre ,filipe
 ,scio1 #bei;b  confessor of ,ferdinand 
the ,seventh1 and had even been printed1
 but so  encumbered by notes and        
commentaries as to be unfitted for      
general  circulation1 for which1 indeed1
 it was never intended4  ,in the present
  edition the notes were of course      
omitted1 and the inspired word1 and that
  alone1 offered to the public4  ,it was
 brought out in a handsome octavo       
volume1 and presented1 upon the whole1 a
 rather favourable specimen of  ,spanish
 typography4  ,the mere printing1       
however1 of the ,new ,testament at      
,madrid could be attended with no       
utility whatever1 unless measures1 and  
energetic ones1 were taken for the      
circulation of the sacred volume4    ,in
 the case of the ,new ,testament it     
would not do to follow the usual plan   

of publication in ,spain1 namely1 to    
entrust the work to the booksellers  of 
the capital1 and rest content with the  
sale which they and their  agents in the
 provincial towns might be able to      
obtain for it in the  common routine of 
business2 the result generally being the
 circulation of  a few dozen copies in  
the course of the year3 as the demand   
for  literature of every kind in ,spain 
was miserably small4    ,the ,christians
 of ,england had already made           
considerable sacrifices in the  hope of 
disseminating the word of ,god largely  
amongst the ,spaniards1 and  it was now 
necessary to spare no exertion to       
prevent that hope becoming  abortive4   
,before the book was ready ,i had begun 
to make preparations for  putting a plan
 into execution1 which had occupied my  
thoughts  occasionally during my former 
visit to ,spain1 and which ,i had never 
subsequently abandoned4  ,i had mused on
 it when off ,cape ,finisterre in  the  
tempest1 in the cut-throat passes of the

 ,sierra ,morena1 and on the  plains of 
,la ,mancha1 as ,i jogged along a little
 way ahead of the  contrabandista4    ,i
 had determined1 after depositing a     
certain number of copies in the  shops  
of the booksellers of ,madrid1 to ride  
forth1 ,testament in hand1 and          
endeavour to circulate the word of ,god 
amongst the ,spaniards1 not only of  the
 towns1 but of the villages2 amongst the
 children not only of the  plains1 but  
of the hills and mountains4  ,i intended
 to visit ,old ,castile1  and to        
traverse the whole of ,galicia and the  
,asturias2 to establish  ,scripture     
depts in the principal towns1 and to    
visit the people in  secret and secluded
 spots2 to talk to them of ,christ1 to  
explain to them  the nature of ,his     
book1 and to place that book in the     
hands of those whom  ,i should deem     
capable of deriving benefit from it4  ,i
 was aware that such  a journey would be
 attended with considerable danger1 and 
very possibly  the fate of ,st4 ,stephen

 might overtake me2 but does the man    
deserve the  name of a follower of      
,christ who would shrink from danger of 
any kind in  the cause of ,him whom he  
calls his ,master8  8,he who loses his  
life for my  sake shall find it10 are   
words which the ,lord ,himself uttered4 
,these  words were fraught with         
consolation to me1 as they doubtless are
 to every  one engaged in propagating   
the ,gospel in sincerity of heart1 in   
savage  and barbarian lands4 4 4 4    ,i
 now purchased another horse2 for these 
animals1 at the time of which ,i  am    
speaking1 were exceedingly cheap4  ,a   
royal requisition was about to be       
issued for five thousand1 the           
consequence being that an immense number
  were for sale1 for1 by virtue of this 
requisition1 the horses of any  person  
not a foreigner could be seized for the 
benefit of the service4  ,it was        
probable that1 when the number was made 
up1 the price of horses  would be treble
 what it then was1 which consideration  

induced me to  purchase this animal     
before ,i exactly wanted him4  ,he was a
 black  ,andalusian stallion #bfa of    
great power and strength1 and capable of
  performing a journey of a hundred     
leagues in a week's time2 but he was    
unbroke1 savage1 and furious4  ,a cargo 
of ,bibles1 however1 which ,i hoped     
occasionally to put on his back1 would1 
,i had no doubt1 thoroughly tame  him1  
especially when labouring up the flinty 
hills of the north of ,spain4  ,i wished
 to have purchased a mule1 but1 though  
,i offered thirty pounds  for a sorry   
one1 ,i could not obtain her2 whereas   
the cost of both the  horses--tall1     
powerful1 stately animals--scarcely     
amounted to that sum4    ,the state of  
the surrounding country at this time was
 not very favourable  for venturing     
forth4  ,cabrera #bfb was within nine   
leagues of ,madrid1  with an army nearly
 ten thousand strong2 he had beaten     
several small  detachments of the       
queen's troops1 and had ravaged ,la     

,mancha with fire  and sword1 burning   
several towns4  ,bands of affrighted    
fugitives were  arriving every hour1    
bringing tidings of woe and disaster2   
and ,i was only  surprised that the     
enemy did not appear1 and by taking     
,madrid1 which was  almost at his mercy1
 put an end to the war at once4  ,but   
the truth is1  that the ,carlist        
generals did not wish the war to cease1 
for as long as  the country was involved
 in bloodshed and anarchy they could    
plunder1 and  exercise that lawless     
authority so dear to men of fierce and  
brutal  passions4  ,cabrera1 moreover1  
was a dastardly wretch1 whose limited   
mind  was incapable of harbouring a     
single conception approaching to        
grandeur--whose heroic deeds were       
confined to cutting down defenceless    
men1 and to forcing and disembowelling  
unhappy women2 and yet ,i have seen     
this wretched fellow termed by ,french  
journals 7,carlist1 of course7 the      
young1 the heroic general6  ,infamy on  

the cowardly assassin6  ,the  shabbiest 
corporal of ,napoleon would have laughed
 at his generalship1 and  half a        
battalion of ,austrian grenadiers would 
have driven him and his  rabble army    
headlong into the ,ebro4 #bfc    ,i now 
made preparations for my journey into   
the north4  ,i was already  provided    
with horses well calculated to support  
the fatigues of the road  and the       
burdens which ,i might deem necessary to
 impose upon them4  ,one  thing1        
however1 was still lacking1             
indispensable to a person about to      
engage on an expedition of this         
description2 ,i mean a servant to attend
  me4  ,perhaps there is no place in the
 world where servants more abound  than 
at ,madrid1 or at least fellows eager to
 proffer their services in  the         
expectation of receiving food and wages1
 though1 with respect to the  actual    
service which they are capable of       
performing1 not much can be  said2 but  
,i was in want of a servant of no common

 description1 a shrewd  active fellow1  
of whose advice1 in cases of emergency1 
,i could  occasionally avail myself2    
courageous withal1 for it certainly     
required  some degree of courage to     
follow a master bent on exploring the   
greater  part of ,spain1 and who        
intended to travel1 not under the       
protection of  muleteers and carmen1 but
 on his own cabalgaduras4  ,such a      
servant1  perhaps1 ,i might have sought 
for years without finding2 chance1      
however1  brought one to my hand at the 
very time ,i wanted him1 without it     
being  necessary for me to make any     
laborious perquisitions4  ,i was one day
  mentioning the subject to ,mr4        
,borrego1 at whose establishment ,i had 
printed the ,new ,testament1 and        
inquiring whether he thought that such  
an  individual was to be found in       
,madrid1 adding that ,i was particularly
  anxious to obtain a servant who1      
besides ,spanish1 could speak some other
  language1 that occasionally we might  

discourse without being understood  by  
those who might overhear us4  8,the very
 description of person10 he  replied1   
8that you appear to be in need of1      
quitted me about half an hour  ago1 and1
 it is singular enough1 came to me in   
the hope that ,i might be  able to      
recommend him to a master4  ,he has been
 twice in my service3 for  his talent   
and courage ,i will answer2 and ,i      
believe him to be  trustworthy1 at least
 to masters who may chime in with his   
humour1 for ,i  must inform you that he 
is a most extraordinary fellow1 full of 
strange  likes and antipathies1 which he
 will gratify at any expense1 either to 
himself or others4  ,perhaps he will    
attach himself to you1 in which case    
you will find him highly valuable2 for1 
if he please1 he can turn his  hand to  
anything1 and is not only acquainted    
with two1 but half a dozen  languages40 
8,is he a ,spaniard80 ,i inquired4      
8,i will send him to you to-morrow10    
said ,borrego1 8you will best learn     

from his own mouth who and what he is40 
,the next day1 as ,i had just sat down  
to my sopa1 my hostess informed me  that
 a man wished to speak to me4  8,admit  
him10 said ,i1 and he almost  instantly 
made his appearance4  ,he was dressed   
respectably in the ,french  fashion1 and
 had rather a juvenile look1 though ,i  
subsequently learned  that he was       
considerably above forty4  ,he was      
somewhat above the middle  stature1 and 
might have been called well made1 had it
 not been for his  meagreness1 which was
 rather remarkable4  ,his arms were long
 and bony1  and his whole form conveyed 
an idea of great activity united with no
  slight degree of strength4  ,his hair 
was wiry1 but of jetty blackness2  his  
forehead low2 his eyes small and grey1  
expressive of much subtlety  and no less
 malice1 strangely relieved by a strong 
dash of humour2 the  nose was handsome1 
but the mouth was immensely wide1 and   
his under jaw  projected considerably4  
,a more singular physiognomy ,i had     

never seen1  and ,i continued staring at
 him for some time in silence4  8,who   
are you80  ,i at last demanded4         
8,domestic in search of a master10      
answered the man in good ,french1 but in
  a strange accent4  8,i come           
recommended to you1 my ,lor1 by         
,monsieur  ,b---40    ,myself4--,of what
 nation may you be8  ,are you ,french or
 ,spanish8    ,man4--,god forbid that ,i
 should be either1 mi ,lor2 j'ai        
l'honneur  d'tre de la nation ,grecque2 
my name is ,antonio ,buchini1 native of 
,pera  the ,belle1 #bfe;a near to       
,constantinople4    ,myself4--,and what 
brought you to ,spain8    ,buchini4--,mi
 ,lor1 je vais vous raconter mon        
histoire du commencement  jusqu'ici4    
,my father was a native of ,sceira1     
#bfe;b in ,greece1 from  whence at an   
early age he repaired to ,pera1 where he
 served as janitor in  the hotels of    
various ambassadors1 by whom he was much
 respected for his  fidelity4  ,amongst 
others of these gentlemen1 he served him

 of your own  nation3 this occurred at  
the time that there was war between     
,england and  the ,porte4 #bff;a        
,monsieur the ambassador had to escape  
for his life1  leaving the greater part 
of his valuables to the care of my      
father1 who  concealed them at his own  
great risk1 and when the dispute was    
settled1  restored them to monsieur1    
even to the most inconsiderable trinket4
  ,i  mention this circumstance to show 
you that ,i am of a family which        
cherishes principles of honour1 and in  
which confidence may be placed4  ,my    
father married a daughter of ,pera1 et  
moi je suis l'unique fruit de  ce       
mariage4  ,of my mother ,i know nothing1
 as she died shortly after my  birth4   
,a family of wealthy ,jews took pity on 
my forlorn condition and  offered to    
bring me up1 to which my father gladly  
consented2 and with  them ,i continued  
several years1 until ,i was a beau      
garon2 they were  very fond of me1 and  
at last offered to adopt me1 and at     

their death to  bequeath me all they    
had1 on condition of my becoming a ,jew4
  ,mais la  circoncision n'toit gure    
mon got1 especially that of the ,jews1  
for  ,i am a ,greek1 am proud1 and have 
principles of honour4  ,i quitted them1 
therefore1 saying that if ever ,i       
allowed myself to be converted1 it      
should be to the faith of the ,turks1   
for they are men1 are proud1 and  have  
principles of honour like myself4  ,i   
then returned to my father1 who         
procured me various situations1 none of 
which were to my liking1 until ,i  was  
placed in the house of ,monsieur ,zea4  
,myself4--,you mean1 ,i suppose1 ,zea   
,bermudez1 #bff;b who chanced to be at  
,constantinople4    ,buchini4--,just so1
 mi ,lor1 and with him ,i continued     
during his stay4  ,he put great         
confidence in me1 more especially as ,i 
spoke the pure  ,spanish language1 which
 ,i acquired amongst the ,jews1 who1 as 
,i have heard  ,monsieur ,zea say1 speak
 it better than the present natives of  

,spain4    ,i shall not follow the      
,greek step by step throughout his      
history1 which  was rather lengthy3     
suffice it to say1 that he was brought  
by ,zea  ,bermudez from ,constantinople 
to ,spain1 where he continued in his    
service  for many years1 and from whose 
house he was expelled for marrying a    
,guipuzcoan damsel1 who was fille de    
chambre to ,madame ,zea2 since  which   
time it appeared that he had served an  
infinity of masters1  sometimes as      
valet1 sometimes as cook1 but generally 
in the last  capacity4  ,he confessed1  
however1 that he had seldom continued   
more than  three days in the same       
service1 on account of the disputes     
which were  sure to arise in the house  
almost immediately after his admission1 
and  for which he could assign no other 
reason than his being a ,greek1 and     
having principles of honour4  ,amongst  
other persons whom he had served  was   
,general ,cordova1 who he said was a bad
 paymaster1 and was in the  habit of    

maltreating his domestics4  8,but he    
found his match in me10 said  ,antonio1 
8for ,i was prepared for him2 and once1 
when he drew his sword  against me1 ,i  
pulled out a pistol and pointed it in   
his face4  ,he grew  pale as death1 and 
from that hour treated me with all kinds
 of  condescension4  ,it was only       
pretence1 however1 for the affair       
rankled in  his mind2 he had determined 
upon revenge1 and on being appointed to 
the  command of the army1 he was        
particularly anxious that ,i should     
attend him  to the camp4  ,mais je lui  
ris au nez1 made the sign of the        
cortamanga1 #bfh asked for my wages1 and
 left him2 and well it was  that ,i did 
so1 for the very domestic whom he took  
with him he caused to  be shot upon a   
charge of mutiny40    8,i am afraid10   
said ,i1 8that you are of a turbulent   
disposition1 and that  the disputes to  
which you have alluded are solely to be 
attributed to the  badness of your      
temper40    8,what would you have1      

,monsieur8  ,moi je suis ,grec1 je suis 
fier1  et j'ai des principes d'honneur4 
,i expect to be treated with a certain  
consideration1 though ,i confess that my
 temper is none of the best1 and  that  
at times ,i am tempted to quarrel with  
the pots and pans in the  kitchen4  ,i  
think1 upon the whole1 that it will be  
for your advantage to  engage me1 and ,i
 promise you to be on my guard4  ,there 
is one thing that  pleases me relating  
to you1 you are unmarried4  ,now1 ,i    
would rather serve  a young unmarried   
man for love and friendship1 than a     
,benedick for fifty  dollars per month4 
,madame is sure to hate me1 and so is   
her  waiting-woman2 and more            
particularly the latter1 because ,i am a
 married  man4  ,i see that mi ,lor is  
willing to engage me40    8,but you say 
you are a married man10 ,i replied2 8how
 can you desert your  wife8 for ,i am   
about to leave ,madrid1 and to travel   
into the remote and  mountainous parts  
of ,spain40    8,my wife will receive   

the moiety of my wages while ,i am      
absent1 mi ,lor1  and therefore will    
have no reason to complain of being     
deserted4  ,complain6 did ,i say2 my    
wife is at present too well instructed  
to  complain4  ,she never speaks nor    
sits in my presence1 unless ,i give her 
permission4  ,am ,i not a ,greek1 and do
 ,i not know how to govern my own       
house8  ,engage me1 mi ,lor2 ,i am a man
 of many capacities--a discreet  valet1 
an excellent cook1 a good groom and     
light rider2 in a word1 ,i am  4 #bfi;a 
,what would you more80    ,i asked him  
his terms1 which were extravagant1      
notwithstanding his  principes          
d'honneur4  ,i found1 however1 that he  
was willing to take  one-half4    ,i had
 no sooner engaged him than1 seizing the
 tureen of soup1 which had  by this time
 become quite cold1 he placed it on the 
top of his fore  finger1 or rather on   
the nail thereof1 causing it to make    
various  circumvolutions over his head1 
to my great astonishment1 without       

spilling  a drop1 then springing with it
 to the door1 he vanished1 and in       
another  moment made his appearance with
 the puchera1 which1 after a similar    
bound and flourish1 he deposited on the 
table2 then suffering his hands  to sink
 before him1 he put one over the other1 
and stood at his ease1  with half-shut  
eyes1 for all the world as if he had    
been in my service  twenty years4       
,and in this manner ,antonio ,buchini   
entered upon his duties4  ,many was the 
wild spot to which he subsequently      
accompanied me2 many the wild  adventure
 of which he was the sharer4  ,his      
behaviour was frequently in  the highest
 degree extraordinary1 but he served me 
courageously and  faithfully3 such a    
valet1 take him for all in all--        
8,his like ,i ne'er expect to see       
again40    ,kosko bakh1 ,anton4 #bfi;b  
,,chapter ,,xx4                         
,illness--,nocturnal ,visit--,a ,master 
,mind--,the ,whisper--,salamanca--,irish
  ,hospitality--,spanish ,soldiers--,the

 ,scriptures advertised4    ,but ,i am  
anxious to enter upon the narrative of  
my journey1 and shall  therefore abstain
 from relating to my readers a great    
many circumstances  which occurred      
previously to my leaving ,madrid on this
 expedition4  ,about  the middle of ,may
 ,i had got everything in readiness1 and
 ,i bade farewell  to my friends4       
,salamanca was the first place which ,i 
intended to visit4    ,some days        
previous to my departure ,i was very    
much indisposed1 owing to  the state of 
the weather1 for violent and biting     
winds had long  prevailed4  ,i had been 
attacked with a severe cold1 which      
terminated in a  disagreeable cough1    
which the many remedies ,i successively 
tried seemed  unable to subdue4  ,i had 
made preparations for departing on a    
particular  day1 but1 owing to the state
 of my health1 ,i was apprehensive that 
,i  should be compelled to defer my     
journey for a time4  ,the last day of my
  stay in ,madrid1 finding myself       

scarcely able to stand1 ,i was fain to  
submit to a somewhat desperate          
experiment1 and by the advice of the    
barber-surgeon who visited me1 ,i       
determined to be bled4  ,late on the    
night of that same day he took from me  
sixteen ounces of blood1 and  having    
received his fee left me1 wishing me a  
pleasant journey1 and  assuring me1 upon
 his reputation1 that by noon the next  
day ,i should be  perfectly recovered4  
,a few minutes after his departure1     
whilst ,i was sitting alone1 meditating 
on the journey which ,i was about to    
undertake1 and on the rickety state  of 
my health1 ,i heard a loud knock at the 
street door of the house1 on  the third 
floor of which ,i was lodged4  ,in      
another minute ,mr4 ,s---1 #bga  of the 
,british embassy1 entered my apartment4 
,after a little  conversation1 he       
informed me that ,mr4 ,villiers had     
desired him to wait  upon me to         
communicate a resolution which he had   
come to4  ,being  apprehensive that1    

alone and unassisted1 ,i should         
experience great  difficulty in         
propagating the ,gospel of ,god to any  
considerable extent in  ,spain1 he was  
bent upon exerting to the utmost his own
 credit and  influence to further my    
views1 which he himself considered1 if  
carried  into proper effect1 extremely  
well calculated to operate beneficially 
on  the political and moral state of the
 country4  ,to this end it was his      
intention to purchase a very            
considerable number of copies of the    
,new  ,testament1 and to dispatch them  
forthwith to the various ,british       
consuls  established in different parts 
of ,spain1 with strict and positive     
orders  to employ all the means which   
their official situation should afford  
them  to circulate the books in         
question1 and to assure their being     
noticed4  ,they were1 moreover1 to be   
charged to afford me1 whenever ,i should
 appear  in their respective districts1 
all the protection1 encouragement1 and  

assistance which ,i should stand in need
 of4  ,i was of course much  rejoiced on
 receiving this information1 for1 though
 ,i had long been aware  that ,mr4      
,villiers was at all times willing to   
assist me1 he having  frequently given  
me sufficient proof1 ,i could never     
expect that he would  come forward in so
 noble1 and1 to say the least of it1    
considering his  high diplomatic        
situation1 so bold and decided a manner4
  ,i believe that  this was the first   
instance of a ,british ambassador having
 made the cause  of the ,bible ,society 
a national one1 or indeed of having     
favoured it  directly or indirectly4    
,what renders the case of ,mr4 ,villiers
 more  remarkable is that1 on my first  
arrival at ,madrid1 ,i found him by no  
means well disposed towards the         
,society4  ,the ,holy ,spirit had       
probably  illumined his mind on this    
point4  ,i hoped that by his means our  
institution would shortly possess many  
agents in ,spain1 who1 with far  more   

power and better opportunities than ,i  
myself could ever expect to  possess1   
would scatter abroad the seed of the    
,gospel1 and make of a  barren and      
thirsty wilderness a green and smiling  
corn-field4    ,a word or two about the 
gentleman who paid me this nocturnal    
visit4  ,though he has probably long    
since forgotten the humble circulator of
 the  ,bible in ,spain1 ,i still bear in
 mind numerous acts of kindness which ,i
  experienced at his hands4  ,endowed   
with an intellect of the highest  order1
 master of the lore of all ,europe1     
profoundly versed in the ancient        
tongues and speaking most of the modern 
dialects with remarkable                
facility--possessed1 moreover1 of a     
thorough knowledge of mankind--he       
brought with him into the diplomatic    
career advantages such as few1 even  the
 most highly gifted1 can boast of4      
,during his sojourn in ,spain he        
performed many eminent services for the 
government which employed him2  services

 which1 ,i believe1 it had sufficient   
discernment to see1 and  gratitude to   
reward4  ,he had to encounter1 however1 
the full brunt of the  low and stupid   
malignity of the party who1 shortly     
after the time of  which ,i am speaking1
 usurped the management of the affairs  
of ,spain4  ,this party1 whose foolish  
manuvres he was continually             
discomfiting1  feared and hated him as  
its evil genius1 taking every           
opportunity of  showering on his head   
calumnies the most improbable and       
absurd4  ,amongst  other things1 he was 
accused of having acted as an agent to  
the ,english  government in the affair  
of ,la ,granja1 bringing about that     
revolution by  bribing the mutinous     
soldiers1 and more particularly the     
notorious  ,sergeant ,garcia4  ,such an 
accusation will of course merely extract
 a  smile from those who are at all     
acquainted with the ,english character1 
and the general line of conduct pursued 
by the ,english government4  ,it  was a 

charge1 however1 universally believed in
 ,spain1 and was even  preferred in     
print by a certain journal1 the official
 organ of the silly  ,duke of ,frias1   
one of the many prime ministers of the  
moderado party  who followed each other 
in rapid succession towards the latter  
period of  the ,carlist and ,cristino   
struggle4  ,but when did a calumnious   
report  ever fall to the ground in      
,spain by the weight of its own         
absurdity8  ,unhappy land6 not until the
 pure light of the ,gospel has illumined
 thee1  wilt thou learn that the        
greatest of all gifts is charity6       
,the next day verified the prediction of
 the ,spanish surgeon2 ,i had to a      
considerable degree lost my cough and   
fever1 though1 owing to the loss of     
blood1 ,i was somewhat feeble4          
,precisely at twelve o'clock the horses 
were led forth before the door of my    
lodging in the ,calle de ,santiago1  and
 ,i prepared to mount2 but my black     
entero of ,andalusia would not  permit  

me to approach his side1 and1 whenever  
,i made the attempt1  commenced wheeling
 round with great rapidity4    8,c'est  
un mauvais signe1 mon matre10 said      
,antonio1 who1 dressed in a  green      
jerkin1 a montero cap1 and booted and   
spurred1 stood ready to  attend me1     
holding by the bridle the horse which ,i
 had purchased from the  contrabandista4
  8,it is a bad sign1 and in my country 
they would defer  the journey till      
to-morrow40    8,are there whisperers in
 your country80 ,i demanded2 and taking 
the horse  by the mane1 ,i performed the
 ceremony after the most approved       
fashion4  ,the animal stood still1 and  
,i mounted the saddle1 exclaiming--     
8,the ,romany chal #bgd;a to his horse  
did cry1         ,as he placed the bit  
in his horse's jaw1      #8,kosko gry6  
,romany gry6         ,muk man kistur    
tute knaw4'0 #bgd;b    ,we then rode    
forth from ,madrid by the gate of ,san  
,vicente1 directing our  course to the  
lofty mountains which separate ,old from

 ,new ,castile4  ,that  night we rested 
at ,guadarrama1 a large village at their
 foot1 distant  from ,madrid about seven
 leagues4  ,rising early on the         
following morning1  we ascended the pass
 and entered into ,old ,castile4        
,after crossing the mountains1 the route
 to ,salamanca lies almost entirely     
over sandy and arid plains1 interspersed
 here and there with thin and  scanty   
groves of pine4  ,no adventure worth    
relating occurred during this  journey4 
,we sold a few ,testaments in the       
villages through which we  passed1 more 
especially at ,pearanda4  ,about noon of
 the third day1 on  reaching the brow of
 a hillock1 we saw a huge dome before   
us1 upon which  the fierce rays of the  
sun striking1 produced the appearance of
 burnished  gold4  ,it belonged to the  
cathedral of ,salamanca1 and we         
flattered  ourselves that we were       
already at our journey's end2 we were   
deceived1  however1 being still four    
leagues distant from the town1 whose    

churches  and convents1 towering up in  
gigantic masses1 can be distinguished at
 an  immense distance1 flattering the   
traveller with an idea of propinquity   
which does not in reality exist4  ,it   
was not till long after nightfall  that 
we arrived at the city gate1 which we   
found closed and guarded1 in            
apprehension of a ,carlist attack2 and  
having obtained admission with some     
difficulty1 we led our horses along     
dark1 silent1 and deserted streets1     
till we found an individual who directed
 us to a large1 gloomy1 and  comfortless
 posada1 that of the ,bull1 which we1   
however1 subsequently  found was the    
best which the town afforded4    ,a     
melancholy town is ,salamanca2 the days 
of its collegiate glory are long  since 
past by1 never more to return3 a        
circumstance1 however1 which is  little 
to be regretted2 for what benefit did   
the world ever derive from  scholastic  
philosophy8  ,and for that alone was    
,salamanca ever famous4  ,its halls are 

now almost silent1 and grass is growing 
in its courts1  which were once daily   
thronged by at least eight thousand     
students2 a  number to which1 at the    
present day1 the entire population of   
the city  does not amount4  ,yet1 with  
all its melancholy1 what an interesting1
 nay1  what a magnificent place is      
,salamanca6  ,how glorious are its      
churches1  how stupendous are its       
deserted convents1 and with what sublime
 but  sullen grandeur do its huge and   
crumbling walls1 which crown the        
precipitous bank of the ,tormes1 look   
down upon the lovely river and its      
venerable bridge6    ,what a pity that1 
of the many rivers of ,spain1 scarcely  
one is navigable6  ,the beautiful but   
shallow ,tormes1 instead of proving a   
source of blessing  and wealth to this  
part of ,castile1 is of no further      
utility than to turn  the wheels of     
various small water mills1 standing upon
 weirs of stone1  which at certain      
distances traverse the river4    ,my    

sojourn at ,salamanca was rendered      
particularly pleasant by the kind       
attentions and continual acts of        
hospitality which ,i experienced from   
the  inmates of the ,irish ,college1 to 
the rector of which ,i bore a letter of 
recommendation from my kind and         
excellent friend ,mr4 ,o',shea1 the     
celebrated banker of ,madrid4  ,it will 
be long before ,i forget these  ,irish1 
more especially their head1 ,dr4        
,gartland1 a genuine scion of the  good 
,hibernian tree1 an accomplished        
scholar1 and a courteous and            
high-minded gentleman4  ,though fully   
aware who ,i was1 he held out the  hand 
of friendship to the wandering heretic  
missionary1 although by so  doing he    
exposed himself to the rancorous remarks
 of the narrow-minded  native clergy1   
who1 in their ugly shovel hats and long 
cloaks1 glared at  me askance as ,i     
passed by their whispering groups       
beneath the piazzas  of the ,plaza4     
,but when did the fear of consequences  

cause an ,irishman  to shrink from the  
exercise of the duties of hospitality8  
,however  attached to his religion--and 
who is so attached to the ,romish creed 
as  the ,irishman8--,i am convinced that
 not all the authority of the ,pope or  
the ,cardinals would induce him to close
 his doors on ,luther himself1 were     
that respectable personage at present   
alive and in need of food and  refuge4  
,honour to ,ireland and her 8hundred    
thousand welcomes60 #bgg;a  ,her fields 
have long been the greenest in the      
world2 her daughters the fairest2 her   
sons the bravest and most eloquent4     
,may they never cease to be so6    ,the 
posada where ,i had put up was a good   
specimen of the old ,spanish  inn1 being
 much the same as those described in the
 time of ,philip the  ,third or ,fourth4
  ,the rooms were many and large1       
floored with either  brick or stone1    
generally with an alcove at the end1 in 
which stood a  wretched flock bed4      
,behind the house was a court1 and in   

the rear of  this a stable1 full of     
horses1 ponies1 mules1 machos1 and      
donkeys1 for  there was no lack of      
guests1 who1 however1 for the most part 
slept in the  stable with their         
caballerias1 being either arrieros or   
small  peddling merchants who travelled 
the country with coarse cloth or linen4 
,opposite to my room in the corridor    
lodged a wounded officer1 who had  just 
arrived from ,san ,sebastian on a galled
 broken-kneed pony3 he was an           
,estrimenian1 #bgg;b and was returning  
to his own village to be cured4  ,he    
was attended by three broken soldiers1  
lame or maimed1 and unfit for  service3 
they told me that they were of the same 
village as his worship1  and on that    
account he permitted them to travel with
 him4  ,they slept  amongst the litter1 
and throughout the day lounged about the
 house  smoking paper cigars4  ,i never 
saw them eating1 though they frequently 
went to a dark cool corner1 where stood 
a bota or kind of water  pitcher1 which 

they held about six inches from their   
black filmy lips1  permitting the liquid
 to trickle down their throats4  ,they  
said they had  no pay1 and were quite   
destitute of money1 that su merced the  
officer  occasionally gave them a piece 
of bread1 but that he himself was poor  
and  had only a few dollars4  ,brave    
guests for an inn1 thought ,i2 yet1 to  
the  honour of ,spain be it spoken1 it  
is one of the few countries in ,europe  
where poverty is never insulted nor     
looked upon with contempt4  ,even at  an
 inn1 the poor man is never spurned from
 the door1 and if not  harboured1 is at 
least dismissed with fair words1 and    
consigned to the  mercies of ,god and   
his mother4  ,this is as it should be4  
,i laugh at the  bigotry and prejudices 
of ,spain2 ,i abhor the cruelty and     
ferocity which  have cast a stain of    
eternal infamy on her history2 but ,i   
will say for  the ,spaniards1 that in   
their social intercourse no people in   
the world  exhibit a juster feeling of  

what is due to the dignity of human     
nature1  or better understand the       
behaviour which it behoves a man to     
adopt  towards his fellow beings4  ,i   
have said that it is one of the few     
countries in ,europe where poverty is   
not treated with contempt1 and ,i may   
add1 where the wealthy are not blindly  
idolized4  ,in ,spain the very  beggar  
does not feel himself a degraded being1 
for he kisses no one's  feet1 and knows 
not what it is to be cuffed or spit     
upon2 and in ,spain  the duke or the    
marquis can scarcely entertain a very   
overweening opinion  of his own         
consequence1 as he finds no one1 with   
perhaps the exception of  his ,french   
valet1 to fawn upon or flatter him4     
,during my stay at ,salamanca ,i took   
measures that the word of ,god might    
become generally known in his celebrated
 city4  ,the principal bookseller  of   
the town1 ,blanco1 a man of great wealth
 and respectability1 consented  to      
become my agent here1 and ,i in         

consequence deposited in his shop a     
certain number of ,new ,testaments4  ,he
 was the proprietor of a small          
printing-press1 where the official      
bulletin of the place was published4    
,for this bulletin ,i prepared an       
advertisement of the work1 in which1    
amongst other things1 ,i said that the  
,new ,testament was the only guide to   
salvation2 ,i also spoke of the ,bible  
,society1 and the great pecuniary       
sacrifices which it was making with the 
view of proclaiming ,christ  crucified1 
and of making his doctrine known4  ,this
 step will perhaps be  considered by    
some as too bold1 but ,i was not aware  
that ,i could take any  more calculated 
to arouse the attention of the people--a
 considerable  point4  ,i also ordered  
numbers of the same advertisement to be 
struck off  in the shape of bills1 which
 ,i caused to be stuck up in various    
parts of  the town4  ,i had great hope  
that by means of these a considerable   
number  of ,new ,testaments would be    

sold4  ,i intended to repeat this       
experiment in  ,valladolid1 ,leon1 ,st4 
,jago1 #bgi and all the principal towns 
which ,i  visited1 and to distribute    
them likewise as ,i rode along4  ,the   
children  of ,spain would thus be       
brought to know that such a work as the 
,new  ,testament is in existence1 a fact
 of which not five in one hundred were  
then aware1 notwithstanding their so    
frequently repeated boasts of their     
,catholicity and ,christianity4         
,,chapter ,,xxi4      ,departure from   
,salamanca--,reception at               
,pitiegua--,the ,dilemma--,sudden       
,inspiration--,the ,good                
,presbyter--,combat of                  
,quadrupeds--,irish                     
,christians--,plains of ,spain--,the    
,catalans--,the ,fatal                  
,pool--,valladolid--,circulation of the 
,scriptures--,philippine                
,missions--,english  ,college--,a       
,conversation--,the ,gaoleress4    ,on  
,saturday1 ,june #aj1 ,i left ,salamanca

 for ,valladolid4  ,as the village      
where we intended to rest was only five 
leagues distant1 we did not sally  forth
 till midday was past4  ,there was a    
haze in the heavens which  overcast the 
sun1 nearly hiding his countenance from 
our view4  ,my  friend1 ,mr4 ,patrick   
,cantwell1 of the ,irish ,college1      
#bhj;a was kind  enough to ride with me 
part of the way4  ,he was mounted on a  
most  sorry-looking hired mule1 which ,i
 expected would be unable to keep pace  
with the spirited horses of myself and  
man2 for he seemed to be  twin-brother  
of the mule of ,gil ,perez1 on which his
 nephew made his  celebrated journey    
from ,oviedo to ,peaflor4 #bhj;b  ,i    
was1 however1 very  much mistaken4  ,the
 creature1 on being mounted1 instantly  
set off at that  rapid walk which ,i    
have so often admired in ,spanish mules1
 and which no  horse can emulate4  ,our 
more stately animals were speedily left 
in the  rear1 and we were continually   
obliged to break into a trot to follow  

the  singular quadruped1 who1 ever and  
anon1 would lift his head high in the   
air1 curl up his lip1 and show his      
yellow teeth1 as if he were laughing  at
 us1 as perhaps he was4  ,it chanced    
that none of us were well  acquainted   
with the road2 indeed1 ,i could see     
nothing which was fairly  entitled to   
that appellation4  ,the way from        
,salamanca to ,valladolid is  amongst a 
medley of bridle-paths and drift-ways1  
where discrimination is  very difficult4
  ,it was not long before we were       
bewildered1 and travelled  over more    
ground than was strictly necessary4     
,however1 as men and women  frequently  
passed on donkeys and little ponies1 we 
were not too proud to  be set right by  
them1 and by dint of diligent inquiry we
 at length  arrived at ,pitiegua1 four  
leagues from ,salamanca1 a small        
village1  containing about fifty        
families1 consisting of mud huts1 and   
situated in  the midst of dusty plains1 
where corn was growing in abundance4    

,we asked  for the house of the cura1 an
 old man whom ,i had seen the day before
 at  the ,irish ,college1 and who1 on   
being informed that ,i was about to     
depart  for ,valladolid1 had exacted    
from me a promise that ,i would not pass
  through his village without paying him
 a visit and partaking of his           
hospitality4    ,a woman directed us to 
a cottage somewhat superior in          
appearance to those  contiguous4  ,it   
had a small portico1 which1 if ,i       
remember well1 was  overgrown with a    
vine4  ,we knocked loud and long at the 
door1 but  received no answer2 the voice
 of man was silent1 and not even a dog  
barked4  ,the truth was1 that the old   
curate #bhb was taking his  siesta1 and 
so were his whole family1 which         
consisted of one ancient  female and a  
cat4  ,the good man was at last         
disturbed by our noise and              
vociferation1 for we were hungry1 and   
consequently impatient4  ,leaping  from 
his couch1 he came running to the door  

in great hurry and confusion1  and1     
perceiving us1 he made many apologies   
for being asleep at a period  when1 he  
said1 he ought to have been on the      
look-out for his invited  guest4  ,he   
embraced me very affectionately1 and    
conducted me into his  parlour1 an      
apartment of tolerable size1 hung round 
with shelves1 which  were crowded with  
books4  ,at one end there was a kind of 
table or desk  covered with black       
leather1 with a large easy-chair1 into  
which he pushed  me1 as ,i1 with the    
true eagerness of a bibliomaniac1 was   
about to inspect  his shelves2 saying1  
with considerable vehemence1 that there 
was nothing  there worthy of the        
attention of an ,englishman1 for that   
his whole stock  consisted of breviaries
 and dry ,catholic treatises on         
divinity4    ,his care now was to       
furnish us with refreshments4  ,in a    
twinkling1 with  the assistance of his  
old attendant1 he placed on the table   
several  plates of cakes and            

confectionery1 and a number of large    
uncouth glass  bottles1 which ,i thought
 bore a strong resemblance to those of  
,schiedam1  and indeed they were the    
very same4  8,there10 said he1 rubbing  
his hands2  8,i thank ,god that it is in
 my power to treat you in a way which   
will be  agreeable to you4  ,in those   
bottles there is ,hollands1 thirty years
 old20  and producing two large         
tumblers1 he continued1 8fill1 my       
friends1 and  drink--drink it every drop
 if you please1 for it is of little use 
to  myself1 who seldom drink aught but  
water4  ,i know that you islanders love 
it1 and cannot live without it2         
therefore1 since it does you good1 ,i am
  only sorry that there is no more40    
,observing that we contented ourselves  
with merely tasting it1 he looked  at us
 with astonishment1 and inquired the    
reason of our not drinking4  ,we  told  
him that we seldom drank ardent spirits2
 and ,i added1 that as for  myself1 ,i  
seldom tasted even wine1 but1 like      

himself1 was content with  the use of   
water4  ,he appeared somewhat           
incredulous2 but told us to do  exactly 
what we pleased1 and to ask for what was
 agreeable to us4  ,we  told him that we
 had not dined1 and should be glad of   
some substantial  refreshment4  8,i am  
afraid10 said he1 8that ,i have nothing 
in the house  which will suit you2      
however1 we will go and see40           
,thereupon he led us through a small    
yard at the back part of his house1     
which might have been called a garden or
 orchard if it had displayed  either    
trees or flowers2 but it produced       
nothing but grass1 which was  growing in
 luxuriance4  ,at one end was a large   
pigeon-house1 which we all  entered2    
8for10 said the curate1 8if we could    
find some nice delicate  pigeons they   
would afford you an excellent dinner40  
,we were1 however1  disappointed2 for1  
after rummaging the nests1 we only found
 very young  ones1 unfitted for our     
purpose4  ,the good man became very     

melancholy1 and  said he had some       
misgivings that we should have to depart
 dinnerless4  ,leaving the pigeon-house1
 he conducted us to a place where there 
were  several skeps of bees1 round which
 multitudes of the busy insects were    
hovering1 filling the air with their    
music4  8,next to my  fellow-creatures10
 said he1 8there is nothing which ,i    
love so dearly as  these bees2 it is one
 of my delights to sit watching them1   
and listening  to their murmur40  ,we   
next went to several unfurnished rooms1 
fronting  the yard1 in one of which were
 hanging several flitches of bacon1     
beneath  which he stopped1 and1 looking 
up1 gazed intently upon them4  ,we told 
him  that1 if he had nothing better to  
offer1 we should be very glad to eat    
some slices of his bacon1 especially if 
some eggs were added4  8,to tell  the   
truth10 said he1 8,i have nothing       
better1 and if you can content          
yourselves with such fare ,i shall be   
very happy2 as for eggs1 you can  have  

as many as you wish1 and perfectly      
fresh1 for my hens lay every  day40     
,so1 after everything was prepared and  
arranged to our satisfaction1 we  sat   
down to dine on the bacon and eggs1 in a
 small room1 not the one to  which he   
had ushered us at first1 but on the     
other side of the doorway4  ,the good   
curate1 though he ate nothing1 having   
taken his meal long  before1 sat at the 
head of the table1 and the repast was   
enlivened by his  chat4  8,there1 my    
friends10 said he1 8where you are now   
seated once sat  ,wellington and        
,crawford1 after they had beat the      
,french at ,arapiles1  #bhd and rescued 
us from the thraldom of those wicked    
people4  ,i never  respected my house so
 much as ,i have done since they        
honoured it with  their presence4  ,they
 were heroes1 and one was a demi-god40  
,he then  burst into a most eloquent    
panegyric of ,el ,gran ,lord1 as he     
termed him1  which ,i should be very    
happy to translate1 were my pen capable 

of  rendering into ,english the robust  
thundering sentences of his powerful    
,castilian4  ,i had till then considered
 him a plain1 uninformed old man1       
almost simple1 and as incapable of much 
emotion as a tortoise within its  shell2
 but he had become at once inspired3 his
 eyes were replete with a  bright fire1 
and every muscle of his face was        
quivering4  ,the little silk  skull-cap 
which he wore1 according to the custom  
of the ,catholic clergy1  moved up and  
down with his agitation2 and ,i soon saw
 that ,i was in the  presence of one of 
those remarkable men who so frequently  
spring up in  the bosom of the ,romish  
church1 and who to a child-like         
simplicity unite  immense energy and    
power of mind--equally adapted to guide 
a scanty flock  of ignorant rustics in  
some obscure village in ,italy or       
,spain1 as to  convert millions of      
heathens on the shores of ,japan1       
,china1 and ,paraguay4    ,he was a thin
 spare man1 of about sixty-five1 and was

 dressed in a black  cloak of very      
coarse materials2 nor were his other    
garments of superior  quality4  ,this   
plainness1 however1 in the appearance of
 his outward man  was by no means the   
result of poverty2 quite the contrary4  
,the benefice  was a very plentiful one1
 and placed at his disposal annually a  
sum of at  least eight hundred dollars1 
of which the eighth part was more than  
sufficient to defray the expenses of his
 house and himself2 the rest was        
devoted entirely to the purest acts of  
charity4  ,he fed the hungry  wanderer1 
and despatched him singing on his way1  
with meat in his wallet  and a peseta in
 his purse2 and his parishioners1 when  
in need of money1  had only to repair to
 his study1 and were sure of an         
immediate supply4  ,he was1 indeed1 the 
banker of the village1 and what he lent 
he neither  expected nor wished to be   
returned4  ,though under the necessity  
of making  frequent journeys to         
,salamanca1 he kept no mule1 but        

contented himself  with an ass1 borrowed
 from the neighbouring miller4  8,i once
 kept a  mule10 said he2 8but some years
 since it was removed without my        
permission by a traveller whom ,i had   
housed for the night3 for in that       
alcove ,i keep two clean beds for the   
use of the wayfaring1 and ,i shall be   
very much pleased if yourself and friend
 will occupy them1 and tarry with  me   
till the morning40    ,but ,i was eager 
to continue my journey1 and my friend   
was no less anxious  to return to       
,salamanca4  ,upon taking leave of the  
hospitable curate1 ,i  presented him    
with a copy of the ,new ,testament4  ,he
 received it without  uttering a single 
word1 and placed it on one of the       
shelves of his study2  but ,i observed  
him nodding significantly to the ,irish 
student1 perhaps as  much as to say1    
8,your friend loses no opportunity of   
propagating his  book20 for he was well 
aware who ,i was4  ,i shall not speedily
 forget the  truly good presbyter1      

,antonio ,garcia de ,aguilar1 cura of   
,pitiegua4    ,we reached ,pedroso      
shortly before nightfall4  ,it was a    
small village1  containing about thirty 
houses1 and intersected by a rivulet1   
or1 as it  is called1 a regata4  ,on its
 banks women and maidens were washing   
their  linen1 and singing couplets2 the 
church stood alone and solitary on the  
farther side4  ,we inquired for the     
posada1 and were shown a cottage1       
differing nothing from the rest in      
general appearance4  ,we called at the  
door in vain1 as it is not the custom of
 ,castile for the people of these       
halting-places to go out to welcome     
their visitors3 at last we dismounted   
and entered the house1 demanding of a   
sullen-looking woman where we were  to  
place the horses4  ,she said there was a
 stable within the house1 but  we could 
not put the animals there1 as it        
contained malos machos #bhg  belonging  
to two travellers1 who would certainly  
fight with our horses1  and then there  

would be a funcion1 which would tear the
 house down4  ,she then pointed to an   
out-house across the way1 saying that we
 could  stable them there4  ,we entered 
this place1 which we found full of filth
  and swine1 with a door without a lock4
  ,i thought of the fate of the  cura's 
mule1 and was unwilling to trust the    
horses in such a place1  abandoning them
 to the mercy of any robber in the      
neighbourhood4  ,i  therefore entered   
the house1 and said resolutely that ,i  
was determined to  place them in the    
stable4  ,two men were squatted on the  
ground1 with an  immense bowl of stewed 
hare before them1 on which they were    
supping2  these were the travelling     
merchants1 the masters of the mules4  ,i
 passed  on to the stable1 one of the   
men saying softly1 8,yes1 yes1 go in and
 see  what will befall40  ,i had no     
sooner entered the stable than ,i heard 
a  horrid discordant cry1 something     
between a bray and a yell1 and the      
largest of the machos1 tearing his head 

from the manger to which he was         
fastened1 his eyes shooting flames1 and 
breathing a ,whirlwind from his         
nostrils1 flung himself on my stallion4 
,the horse1 as savage as himself1       
reared on his hind legs1 and1 after the 
fashion of an ,english pugilist1  repaid
 the other with a pat on the forehead1  
which nearly felled him4  ,a  combat    
instantly ensued1 and ,i thought that   
the words of the sullen woman  would be 
verified by the house being torn to     
pieces4  ,it ended by my  seizing the   
mule by the halter1 at the risk of my   
limbs1 and hanging upon  him with all my
 weight1 whilst ,antonio1 with much     
difficulty1 removed the  horse4  ,the   
man who had been standing at the        
entrance now came forward1  saying1     
8,this would not have happened if you   
had taken good advice40  ,upon my       
stating to him the unreasonableness of  
expecting that ,i would  risk horses in 
a place where they would probably be    
stolen before the  morning1 he replied1 

8,true1 true1 you have perhaps done     
right40  ,he then  re-fastened his      
macho1 adding for additional security a 
piece of  whipcord1 which he said       
rendered escape impossible4    ,after   
supper1 ,i roamed about the village4  ,i
 addressed two or three  labourers whom 
,i found standing at their doors2 they  
appeared1 however1  exceedingly         
reserved1 and with a gruff 8buenas      
noches0 turned into  their houses       
without inviting me to enter4  ,i at    
last found my way to the  church porch1 
where ,i continued some time in         
meditation4  ,at last ,i  bethought     
myself of retiring to rest2 before      
departing1 however1 ,i took  out and    
affixed to the porch of the church an   
advertisement to the effect  that the   
,new ,testament was to be purchased at  
,salamanca4  ,on returning to  the      
house1 ,i found the two travelling      
merchants enjoying profound slumber  on 
various mantas1 or mule-cloths1         
stretched on the floor4  8,you are a    

,french merchant1 ,i suppose1           
,caballero10 said a man1 who it seemed  
was  the master of the house1 and whom  
,i had not before seen4  8,you are a    
,french merchant1 ,i suppose1 and are on
 the way to the fair of ,medina40  8,i  
am neither ,frenchman nor merchant10 ,i 
replied1 8and1 though ,i purpose        
passing through ,medina1 it is not with 
the view of attending the fair40  8,then
 you are one of the ,irish ,christians  
from ,salamanca1 ,caballero10  said the 
man2 8,i hear you come from that town40 
8,why do you call them  ,irish          
,christians80 ,i replied4  8,are there  
pagans in their country80  8,we call    
them ,christians10 said the man1 8to    
distinguish them from the  ,irish       
,english1 who are worse than pagans1 who
 are ,jews and heretics40  ,i  made no  
answer1 but passed on to the room which 
had been prepared for me1  and from     
which1 the door being ajar1 ,i heard the
 following short  conversation passing  
between the innkeeper and his wife3--   

,innkeeper4--,muger1 it appears to me   
that we have evil guests in the  house4 
,wife4--,you mean the last comers1 the  
,caballero and his servant4  ,yes1  ,i  
never saw worse countenances in my life4
    ,innkeeper4--,i do not like the     
servant1 and still less the master4  ,he
  has neither formality nor politeness3 
he tells me that he is not ,french1  and
 when ,i spoke to him of the ,irish     
,christians1 he did not seem to  belong 
to them4  ,i more than suspect that he  
is a heretic1 or a ,jew at  least4      
,wife4--,perhaps they are both4  ,maria 
,santsima6 what shall we do to  purify  
the house when they are gone8           
,innkeeper4--,oh1 as for that matter1 we
 must of course charge it in the        
cuenta4    ,i slept soundly1 and rather 
late in the morning arose and           
breakfasted1  and paid the bill1 in     
which1 by its extravagance1 ,i found the
  purification had not been forgotten4  
,the travelling merchants had  departed 
at daybreak4  ,we now led forth the     

horses1 and mounted2 there  were several
 people at the door staring at us4      
8,what is the meaning of  this80 said ,i
 to ,antonio4    8,it is whispered that 
we are no ,christians10 said ,antonio2  
8they have  come to cross themselves at 
our departure40    ,in effect1 the      
moment that we rode forward a dozen     
hands at least were  busied in this     
evil-averting ceremony4  ,antonio       
instantly turned and  crossed himself in
 the ,greek fashion--much more complex  
and difficult than  the ,catholic4      
8,mirad que ,santiguo6 que ,santiguo de 
los demonios60 #bij exclaimed  many     
voices1 whilst for fear of consequences 
we hastened away4    ,the day was       
exceedingly hot1 and we wended our way  
slowly along the  plains of ,old        
,castile4  ,with all that pertains to   
,spain1 vastness and  sublimity are     
associated3 grand are its mountains1 and
 no less grand are  its plains1 which   
seem of boundless extent1 but which are 
not tame  unbroken flats1 like the      

steppes of ,russia4  ,rough and uneven  
ground is  continually occurring3 here a
 deep ravine and gully worn by the      
wintry  torrent2 yonder an eminence not 
unfrequently craggy and savage1 at whose
  top appears the lone solitary village4
  ,there is little that is  blithesome  
and cheerful1 but much that is          
melancholy4  ,a few solitary  rustics   
are occasionally seen toiling in the    
fields--fields without limit  or        
boundary1 where the green oak1 the elm1 
or the ash are unknown2 where  only the 
sad and desolate pine displays its      
pyramid-like form1 and where  no grass  
is to be found4  ,and who are the       
travellers of these districts8  ,for the
 most part arrieros1 with their long    
trains of mules hung with  monotonous   
tinkling bells4  ,behold them with their
 brown faces1 brown  dresses1 and broad 
slouched hats2--the arrieros1 the true  
lords of the  roads of ,spain1 and to   
whom more respect is paid in these dusty
 ways than  to dukes and condes2--the   

arrieros1 sullen1 proud1 and rarely     
courteous1 whose deep voices may be     
sometimes heard at the distance of a    
mile1 either cheering the sluggish      
animals1 or shortening the dreary way   
with savage and dissonant songs4        
,late in the afternoon we reached       
,medina del ,campo1 #bia formerly one of
  the principal cities of ,spain1 though
 at present an inconsiderable place4    
,immense ruins surround it in every     
direction1 attesting the former         
grandeur of this 8city of the plain40   
,the great square or market-place  is a 
remarkable spot1 surrounded by a heavy  
massive piazza1 over which  rise black  
buildings of great antiquity4  ,we found
 the town crowded with  people awaiting 
the fair1 which was to be held in a day 
or two4  ,we  experienced some          
difficulty in obtaining admission into  
the posada1  which was chiefly occupied 
by ,catalans from ,valladolid4  ,these  
people not  only brought with them their
 merchandise1 but their wives and       

children4  ,some of them appeared to be 
people of the worst description3 there  
was  one in particular1 a burly         
savage-looking fellow1 of about forty1  
whose  conduct was atrocious2 he sat    
with his wife1 or perhaps concubine1 at 
the  door of a room which opened upon   
the court3 he was continually venting   
horrible and obscene oaths1 both in     
,spanish and ,catalan4  ,the woman was  
remarkably handsome1 but robust1 and    
seemingly as savage as himself2 her     
conversation likewise was as frightful  
as his own4  ,both seemed to be  under  
the influence of an incomprehensible    
fury4  ,at last1 upon some  observation 
from the woman1 he started up1 and      
drawing a long knife from  his girdle1  
stabbed at her naked bosom2 she1        
however1 interposed the palm  of her    
hand1 which was much cut4  ,he stood for
 a moment viewing the blood  trickling  
upon the ground1 whilst she held up her 
wounded hand2 then1  with an astounding 
oath1 he hurried up the court to the    

,plaza4  ,i went  up to the woman and   
said1 8,what is the cause of this8  ,i  
hope the ruffian  has not seriously     
injured you40  ,she turned her          
countenance upon me with  the glance of 
a demon1 and at last with a sneer of    
contempt exclaimed1  8,carls1 que es    
eso8 #bib  ,cannot a ,catalan gentleman 
be conversing  with his lady upon their 
own private affairs without being       
interrupted by  you80  ,she then bound  
up her hand with a handkerchief1 and    
going into the  room brought a small    
table to the door1 on which she placed  
several  things1 as if for the evening's
 repast1 and then sat down on a stool4  
,presently returned the ,catalan1 and   
without a word took his seat on the     
threshold2 then1 as if nothing had      
occurred1 the extraordinary couple      
commenced eating and drinking1          
interlarding their meal with oaths and  
jests4    ,we spent the night at        
,medina1 and departing early next       
morning1 passed  through much the same  

country as the day before1 until about  
noon we  reached a small venta1 distant 
half a league from the ,duero2 #bic;a   
here we reposed ourselves during the    
heat of the day1 and then1  remounting1 
crossed the river by a handsome stone   
bridge1 and directed  our course to     
,valladolid4  ,the banks of the ,duero  
in this place have much  beauty3 they   
abound with trees and brushwood1 amongst
 which1 as we passed  along1 various    
birds were singing melodiously4  ,a     
delicious coolness  proceeded from the  
water1 which in some parts brawled over 
stones or  rippled fleetly over white   
sand1 and in others glided softly over  
blue  pools of considerable depth4  ,by 
the side of one of these last sat a     
woman of about thirty1 neatly dressed as
 a peasant2 she was gazing upon  the    
water1 into which she occasionally flung
 flowers and twigs of trees4  ,i stopped
 for a moment to ask a question2 she1   
however1 neither looked up  nor         
answered1 but continued gazing at the   

water as if lost to  consciousness of   
all beside4  8,who is that woman80 said 
,i to a shepherd1  whom ,i met the      
moment after4  8,she is mad1 la         
pobrecita10 said he2 8she  lost her     
child about a month ago in that pool1   
and she has been mad ever  since4  ,they
 are going to send her to ,valladolid1  
to the ,casa de los  ,locos4 #bic;b     
,there are many who perish every year in
 the eddies of the  ,duero2 it is a bad 
river2 vaya usted con la ,virgen1       
,caballero40  #bic;c  ,so ,i rode on    
through the pinares1 or thin scanty pine
 forests1  which skirt the way to       
,valladolid #bic;d in this direction4   
,valladolid is seated in the midst of an
 immense valley1 or rather hollow1      
which seems to have been scooped by some
 mighty convulsion out of the  plain    
ground of ,castile4  ,the eminences     
which appear in the neighbourhood  are  
not properly high grounds1 but are      
rather the sides of this hollow4  ,they 
are jagged and precipitous1 and exhibit 

a strange and uncouth  appearance4      
,volcanic force seems at some distant   
period to have been  busy in these      
districts4  ,valladolid abounds with    
convents1 at present  deserted1 which   
afford some of the finest specimens of  
architecture in  ,spain4  ,the principal
 church1 though rather ancient1 is      
unfinished3 it  was intended to be a    
building of vast size1 but the means of 
the founders  were insufficient to carry
 out their plan4  ,it is built of rough 
granite4  ,valladolid is a manufacturing
 town1 but the commerce is chiefly in   
the  hands of the ,catalans1 of whom    
there is a colony of nearly three       
hundred  established here4  ,it         
possesses a beautiful alameda1 or public
 walk1  through which flows the river   
,escueva4  ,the population is said to   
amount  to sixty thousand souls4    ,we 
put up at the ,posada de las            
,diligencias1 a very magnificent        
edifice4  ,this posada1 however1 we were
 glad to quit on the second day after   

our  arrival1 the accommodation being of
 the most wretched description1 and  the
 incivility of the people great2 the    
master of the house1 an immense  tall   
fellow1 with huge moustaches and an     
assumed military air1 being far  too    
high a cavalier to attend to the wants  
of his guests1 with whom1 it  is true1  
he did not appear to be overburdened1 as
 ,i saw no one but  ,antonio and myself4
  ,he was a leading man amongst the     
national guards of  ,valladolid1 and    
delighted in parading about the city on 
a clumsy steed1  which he kept in a     
subterranean stable4    ,our next       
quarters were at the ,trojan ,horse1 an 
ancient posada1 kept by  a native of the
 ,basque provinces1 who at least was not
 above his  business4  ,we found        
everything in confusion at ,valladolid1 
a visit from  the factious being        
speedily expected4  ,all the gates were 
blockaded1 and  various forts had been  
built to cover the approaches to the    
city4  ,shortly after our departure the 

,carlists actually did arrive1 under the
  command of the ,biscayan chief1       
,zariategui4 #bie  ,they experienced no 
opposition1 the staunchest nationals    
retiring to the principal fort1  which  
they1 however1 speedily surrendered1 not
 a gun being fired  throughout the      
affair4  ,as for my friend the hero of  
the inn1 on the  first rumour of the    
approach of the enemy1 he mounted his   
horse and rode  off1 and was never      
subsequently heard of4  ,on our return  
to ,valladolid1  we found the inn in    
other and better hands1 those of a      
,frenchman from  ,bayonne1 from whom we 
received as much civility as we had     
experienced  rudeness from his          
predecessor4    ,in a few days ,i formed
 the acquaintance of the bookseller of  
the place1 a  kind-hearted1 simple man1 
who willingly undertook the charge of   
vending  the ,testaments which ,i       
brought4    ,i found literature of every
 description at the lowest ebb at       
,valladolid4  ,my newly acquired friend 

merely carried on bookselling in        
connection with  other business2 it     
being1 as he assured me1 in itself quite
 insufficient  to afford him a          
livelihood4  ,during the week1 however1 
that ,i continued  in this city1 a      
considerable number of copies were      
disposed of1 and a  fair prospect opened
 that many more would be demanded4  ,to 
call attention  to my books1 ,i had     
recourse to the same plan which ,i had  
adopted at  ,salamanca1 the affixing of 
advertisements to the walls4  ,before   
leaving  the city ,i gave orders that   
these should be renewed every week2 from
  pursuing which course ,i expected that
 much and manifold good would  accrue1  
as the people would have continual      
opportunities of learning that  a book  
which contains the living word was in   
existence1 and within their  reach1     
which might induce them to secure it1   
and consult it even unto  salvation4 4 4
 4    ,in ,valladolid ,i found both an  
,english #bif;a and ,scotch #bif;b      

,college4  ,from my obliging friends1   
the ,irish at ,salamanca1 ,i bore a     
letter of  introduction to the rector of
 the latter4  ,i found this college an  
old  gloomy edifice1 situated in a      
retired street4  ,the rector was dressed
 in  the habiliments of a ,spanish      
ecclesiastic1 a character which he was  
evidently ambitious of assuming4  ,there
 was something dry and cold in his      
manner1 and nothing of that generous    
warmth and eager hospitality which  had 
so captivated me in the fine ,irish     
rector of ,salamanca2 he was1  however1 
civil and polite1 and offered to show me
 the curiosities of the  place4  ,he    
evidently knew who ,i was1 and on that  
account was1 perhaps1  more reserved    
than he otherwise would have been3 not a
 word passed  between us on religious   
matters1 which we seemed to avoid by    
common  consent4  ,under the auspices of
 this gentleman1 ,i visited the college 
of  the ,philippine ,missions1 which    
stands beyond the gate of the city1     

where  ,i was introduced to the         
superior1 a fine old man of seventy1    
very stout1  in the habiliments of a    
friar4  ,there was an air of placid     
benignity on  his countenance which     
highly interested me2 his words were few
 and  simple1 and he seemed to have bid 
adieu to all worldly passions4  ,one    
little weakness was1 however1 still     
clinging to him4    ,myself4--,this is a
 noble edifice in which you dwell1      
father2 ,i should  think it would       
contain at least two hundred students4  
,rector4--,more1 my son3 it is intended 
for more hundreds than it now  contains 
single individuals4    ,myself4--,i     
observe that some rude attempts have    
been made to fortify it2  the walls are 
pierced with loopholes in every         
direction4    ,rector4--,the nationals  
of ,valladolid visited us a few days    
ago1 and  committed much useless damage2
 they were rather rude1 and threatened  
me  with their clubs4  ,poor men1 poor  
men6    ,myself4--,i suppose that even  

these missions1 which are certainly     
intended for a noble end1 experience the
 sad effects of the present  convulsed  
state of ,spain8    ,rector4--,but too  
true3 we at present receive no          
assistance from the  government1 and are
 left to the ,lord and ourselves4       
,myself4--,how many aspirants for the   
mission are you at present  instructing8
    ,rector4--,not one1 my son2 not one4
  ,they are all fled4  ,the flock is    
scattered1 and the shepherd left alone4 
,myself4--,your reverence has doubtless 
taken an active part in the  mission    
abroad8    ,rector4--,i was forty years 
in the ,philippines1 my son1 forty years
  amongst the ,indians4  ,ah me6 how ,i 
love those ,indians of the ,philippines6
    ,myself4--,can your reverence       
discourse in the language of the        
,indians8    ,rector4--,no1 my son4  ,we
 teach the ,indians ,castilian4  ,there 
is no  better language1 ,i believe4  ,we
 teach them ,castilian1 and the         
adoration  of the ,virgin4  ,what more  

need they know8    ,myself4--,and what  
did your reverence think of the         
,philippines as a  country8             
,rector4--,i was forty years in the     
,philippines1 but ,i know little of the 
country4  ,i do not like the country4   
,i love the ,indians4  ,the country is  
not very bad2 it is1 however1 not worth 
,castile4    ,myself4--,is your         
reverence a ,castilian8    ,rector4--,i 
am an ,old ,castilian1 my son4 #bih     
,from the house of the ,philippine      
,missions my friend conducted me to the 
,english ,college3 this establishment   
seemed in every respect to be on a  more
 magnificent scale than its ,scottish   
sister4  ,in the latter there  were few 
pupils1 scarcely six or seven1 ,i       
believe1 whilst in the ,english         
seminary ,i was informed that between   
thirty and forty were receiving  their  
education4  ,it is a beautiful building1
 with a small but splendid  church1 and 
a handsome library4  ,the situation is  
light and airy3 it  stands by itself in 

an unfrequented part of the city1 and1  
with genuine  ,english exclusiveness1 is
 surrounded by a high wall1 which       
incloses a  delicious garden4  ,this is 
by far the most remarkable establishment
 of  the kind in the ,peninsula1 and ,i 
believe the most prosperous4  ,from the 
cursory view which ,i enjoyed of its    
interior1 ,i of course cannot be        
expected to know much of its economy4   
,i could not1 however1 fail to be       
struck with the order1 neatness1 and    
system which pervaded it4  ,there  was1 
however1 an air of severe monastic      
discipline1 though ,i am far from       
asserting that such actually existed4   
,we were attended throughout by the     
sub-rector1 the principal being absent4 
,of all the curiosities of this         
college1 the most remarkable is the     
picture-gallery1 which contains  neither
 more nor less than the portraits of a  
variety of scholars of this  house who  
eventually suffered martyrdom in        
,england1 in the exercise of  their     

vocation in the angry times of the      
,sixth ,edward and fierce  ,elizabeth4  
,yes1 in this very house were many of   
those pale1 smiling1  half-foreign      
priests educated1 who1 like stealthy    
grimalkins1 traversed  green ,england in
 all directions2 crept into old halls   
beneath umbrageous  rookeries1 fanning  
the dying embers of ,popery1 with no    
other hope nor  perhaps wish than to    
perish disembowelled by the bloody hands
 of the  executioner1 amongst the yells 
of a rabble as bigoted as themselves2   
priests like ,bedingfield and ,garnet1  
#bii and many others who have left  a   
name in ,english story4  ,doubtless many
 a history1 only the more  wonderful for
 being true1 could be wrought out of the
 archives of the  ,english ,popish      
seminary at ,valladolid4    ,there was  
no lack of guests at the ,trojan ,horse1
 where we had taken up  our abode at    
,valladolid4  ,amongst others who       
arrived during my sojourn  was a robust 
buxom dame1 exceedingly well dressed in 

black silk1 with a  costly mantilla4    
,she was accompanied by a very handsome1
 but sullen  and malicious-looking      
urchin of about fifteen1 who appeared to
 be her  son4  ,she came from ,toro1 a  
place about a day's journey from        
,valladolid1  and celebrated for its    
wine4 #cjj;a  ,one night1 as we were    
seated in the  court of the inn enjoying
 the fresco1 the following conversation 
ensued  between us4    ,lady4--,vaya1   
vaya1 what a tiresome place is          
,valladolid6  ,how  different from      
,toro6    ,myself4--,i should have      
thought that it is at least as agreeable
 as ,toro1  which is not a third part so
 large4    ,lady4--,as agreeable as     
,toro6  ,vaya1 vaya6  ,were you ever in 
the  prison of ,toro1 ,sir ,cavalier8   
,myself4--,i have never had that honour2
 the prison is generally the last  place
 which ,i think of visiting4            
,lady4--,see the difference of tastes3  
,i have been to see the prison of       
,valladolid1 and it seems as tiresome as

 the town4    ,myself4--,of course1 if  
grief and tediousness exist anywhere1   
you will  find them in the prison4      
,lady4--,not in that of ,toro4          
,myself4--,what does that of ,toro      
possess to distinguish it from all      
others8    ,lady4--,what does it        
possess8  ,vaya6  ,am ,i not the        
carcelera8  ,is not  my husband the     
alcayde8 #cjj;b  ,is not that son of    
mine a child of the  prison8            
,myself4--,i beg your pardon1 ,i was not
 aware of that circumstance2 it of      
course makes much difference4           
,lady4--,i believe you4  ,i am a        
daughter of that prison3 my father was  
alcayde1 and my son might hope to be so1
 were he not a fool4    ,myself4--,his  
countenance1 then1 belies him strangely4
  ,i should be loth  to purchase that   
youngster for a fool4                   
,gaoleress4--,you would have a fine     
bargain if you did3 he has more         
picardias than any calabozero in ,toro4 
,what ,i mean is1 that he does  not take

 to the prison as he ought to do1       
considering what his fathers  were      
before him4  ,he has too much pride--too
 many fancies2 and he has at  length    
persuaded me to bring him to            
,valladolid1 where ,i have arranged     
with a merchant who lives in the ,plaza 
to take him on trial4  ,i wish he  may  
not find his way to the prison3 if he   
do1 he will find that being a  prisoner 
is a very different thing from being a  
son of the prison4    ,myself4--,as     
there is so much merriment at ,toro1 you
 of course attend to  the comfort of    
your prisoners4    ,gaoleress4--,yes1 we
 are very kind to them--,i mean to those
 who are  caballeros2 but as for those  
with vermin and miseria1 what can we do8
  ,it is a merry prison that of ,toro2  
we allow as much wine to enter as the   
prisoners can purchase and pay duty for4
  ,this of ,valladolid is not half  so  
gay3 there is no prison like ,toro4  ,i 
learned there to play on the  guitar4   
,an ,andalusian cavalier taught me to   

touch the guitar and to sing   la       
,gitana4  ,poor fellow1 he was my first 
novio4  ,juanito1 bring me  the guitar1 
that ,i may play this gentleman a tune  
of ,andalusia4    ,the carcelera had a  
fine voice1 and touched the favourite   
instrument of  the ,spaniards in a truly
 masterly manner4  ,i remained listening
 to her  performance for nearly an hour1
 when ,i retired to my apartment and my 
repose4  ,i believe that she continued  
playing and singing during the  greater 
part of the night1 for as ,i            
occasionally awoke ,i could still hear  
her2 and even in my slumbers the strings
 were ringing in my ears4               
,,chapter ,,xxii4      ,dueas--,children
 of ,egypt--,jockeyism--,the ,baggage   
,pony--,the  ,fall--,palencia--,carlist 
,priests--,the ,look-out--,priestly     
,sincerity--,leon--,antonio             
alarmed--,heat and ,dust4    ,after a   
sojourn of about ten days at            
,valladolid1 we directed our course     
towards ,leon4  ,we arrived about noon  

at ,dueas1 #cjc a town at the  distance 
of six short leagues from ,valladolid4  
,it is in every respect a  singular     
place3 it stands on a rising ground1 and
 directly above it  towers a steep      
conical mountain of calcareous earth1   
crowned by a ruined  castle4  ,around   
,dueas are seen a multitude of caves    
scooped in the high  banks and secured  
with strong doors4  ,these are cellars1 
in which is  deposited the wine1 of     
which abundance is grown in the         
neighbourhood1 and  which is chiefly    
sold to the ,navarrese and the          
mountaineers of ,santander1  who arrive 
in cars drawn by oxen1 and convey it    
away in large quantities4  ,we put up at
 a mean posada in the suburb for the    
purpose of refreshing  our horses4      
,several cavalry soldiers were quartered
 there1 who instantly  came forth1 and  
began1 with the eyes of connoisseurs1 to
 inspect my  ,andalusian entero4  8,a   
capital horse that would be for our     
troop10 said  the corporal2 8what a     

chest he has6  ,by what right do you    
travel with  that horse1 seor1 when so  
many are wanted for the queen's service8
  ,he  belongs to the requiso40 #cjd;a  
8,i travel with him by right of         
purchase1 and being an ,englishman10 ,i 
replied4  8,oh1 your worship is an      
,englishman10 answered the corporal2    
8that1 indeed1 alters the matter4  ,the 
,english in ,spain are allowed to do    
what they please with their own1  which 
is more than the ,spaniards are4        
,cavalier1 ,i have seen your  countrymen
 #cjd;b in the ,basque provinces2 vaya1 
what riders6 what  horses6  ,they do not
 fight badly either4  ,but their chief  
skill is in  riding3 ,i have seen them  
dash over barrancos to get at the       
factious1  who thought themselves quite 
secure1 and then they would fall upon   
them  on a sudden and kill them to a    
man4  ,in truth1 your worship1 this is a
  fine horse2 ,i must look at his       
teeth40    ,i looked at the             
corporal--his nose and eyes were in the 

horse's mouth3 the  rest of the party1  
who might amount to six or seven1 were  
not less busily  engaged4  ,one was     
examining his fore feet1 another his    
hind2 one fellow  was pulling at his    
tail with all his might1 while another  
pinched the  windpipe1 for the purpose  
of discovering whether the animal was at
 all  touched there4  ,at last1         
perceiving that the corporal was about  
to remove  the saddle1 that he might    
examine the back of the animal1 ,i      
exclaimed--    8,stay1 ye chabs of      
,egypt1 ye forget that ye are           
hundunares1 #cjd;c  and are no longer   
paruguing grastes in the chard40    ,the
 corporal at these words turned his face
 full upon me1 and so did all  the rest4
  ,yes1 sure enough1 there were the     
countenances of ,egypt1 and  the fixed  
filmy stare of eye4  ,we continued      
looking at each other for a  minute at  
least1 when the corporal1 a             
villanous-looking fellow1 at last  said1
 in the richest gypsy whine imaginable1 

8,the erray knows us1 the  poor ,calor6 
,and he an ,englishman6  ,bullati6  ,i  
should not have  thought that there was 
e'er a ,busn would know us in these     
parts1 where  ,gitanos are never seen4  
,yes1 your worship is right2 we are all 
here of  the blood of the ,calor4  ,we  
are from ,melegrana1 your worship2 they 
took us from thence and sent us to the  
wars4  ,your worship is right2 the      
sight of that horse made us believe we  
were at home again in the  mercado of   
,granada2 he is a countryman of ours1 a 
real ,andalou4  ,por  dios1 your        
worship1 sell us that horse2 we are poor
 ,calor1 but we can  buy him40    8,you 
forget that you are soldiers10 said ,i4 
8,how should you buy my  horse80    8,we
 are soldiers1 your worship10 said the  
corporal1 8but we are still  ,calor4    
,we buy and sell bestis2 the captain of 
our troop is in  league with us4  ,we   
have been to the wars1 but not to fight2
 we left that  to the ,busn4  ,we have  
kept together1 and1 like true ,calor1   

have  stood back to back4  ,we have made
 money in the wars1 your worship4  ,no  
tenga usted cuidao4 #cje;a  ,we can buy 
your horse40    ,here he pulled out a   
purse1 which contained at least ten     
ounces #cje;b  of gold4    8,if ,i were 
willing to sell10 ,i replied1 8what     
would you give me for that  horse80     
8,then your worship wishes to sell your 
horse--that alters the matter4  ,we     
will give ten dollars for your worship's
 horse4  ,he is good for nothing40      
8,how is this80 said ,i4  8,you this    
moment told me he was a fine horse--an  
,andalusian1 and a countryman of yours40
    8,no1 seor6 we did not say that he  
was an ,andalou4  ,we said he was an    
,estremou1 and the worst of his kind4   
,he is eighteen years old1 your         
worship1 short-winded and galled40      
8,i do not wish to sell my horse10 said 
,i2 8quite the contrary4  ,i had  rather
 buy than sell40    8,your worship does 
not wish to sell your horse10 said the  
gypsy4  8,stay1  your worship2 we will  

give sixty dollars for your worship's   
horse40    8,i would not sell him for   
two hundred and sixty4  ,meclis6        
,meclis6 say  no more4  ,i know your    
gypsy tricks4  ,i will have no dealings 
with you40    8,did ,i not hear your    
worship say that you wished to buy a    
horse80 said  the gypsy4    8,i do not  
want to buy a horse10 said ,i2 8if ,i   
need anything it is a pony  to carry our
 baggage4  ,but it is getting late4     
,antonio1 pay the  reckoning40          
8,stay1 your worship1 do not be in a    
hurry10 said the gypsy2 8,i have got    
the very pony which will suit you40     
,without waiting for my answer1 he      
hurried into the stable1 from whence he 
presently returned1 leading an animal by
 a halter4  ,it was a pony of  about    
thirteen hands high1 of a dark red      
colour2 it was very much galled  all    
over1 the marks of ropes and thongs     
being visible on its hide4  ,the        
figure1 however1 was good1 and there was
 an extraordinary brightness in  its    

eye4    8,there1 your worship10 said the
 gypsy2 8there is the best pony in all  
,spain40    8,what do you mean by       
showing me this wretched creature80 said
 ,i4    8,this wretched creature10 said 
the gypsy1 8is a better horse than your 
,andalou60    8,perhaps you would not   
exchange10 said ,i1 smiling4    8,seor1 
what ,i say is1 that he shall run with  
your ,andalou1 and beat  him40    8,he  
looks feeble10 said ,i2 8his work is    
well-nigh done40    8,feeble as he is1  
seor1 you could not manage him2 no1 nor 
any  ,englishman in ,spain40    ,i      
looked at the creature again1 and was   
still more struck with its  figure4  ,i 
was in need of a pony to relieve        
occasionally the horse of  ,antonio in  
carrying the baggage which we had       
brought from ,madrid1 and  though the   
condition of this was wretched1 ,i      
thought that by kind  treatment ,i might
 possibly soon bring him round4    8,may
 ,i mount this animal80 ,i demanded4    
8,he is a baggage pony1 seor1 and is ill

 to mount4  ,he will suffer none  but   
myself to mount him1 who am his master4 
,when he once commences  running1       
nothing will stop him but the sea4  ,he 
springs over hills and  mountains1 and  
leaves them behind in a moment4  ,if you
 will mount him1  seor1 suffer me to    
fetch a bridle1 for you can never hold  
him in with  the halter40    8,this is  
nonsense10 said ,i4  8,you pretend that 
he is spirited in order to  enhance the 
price4  ,i tell you his work is done40  
,i took the halter in my hand and       
mounted4  ,i was no sooner on his back  
than the creature1 who had before stood 
stone still1 without displaying  the    
slightest inclination to move1 and who  
in fact gave no farther  indication of  
existence than occasionally rolling his 
eyes and pricking  up an ear1 sprang    
forward like a racehorse1 at a most     
desperate gallop4  ,i had expected that 
he might kick or fling himself down on  
the ground1 in  order to get rid of his 
burden1 but for this escapade ,i was    

quite  unprepared4  ,i had no           
difficulty1 however1 in keeping on his  
back1 having  been accustomed from my   
childhood to ride without a saddle4  ,to
 stop him1  however1 baffled all my     
endeavours1 and ,i almost began to pay  
credit to  the words of the gypsy1 who  
had said that he would run on until he  
reached the sea4  ,i had1 however1 a    
strong arm1 and ,i tugged at the  halter
 until ,i compelled him to turn slightly
 his neck1 which from its  stiffness    
might almost have been of wood2 he1     
however1 did not abate his  speed for a 
moment4  ,on the left side of the road  
down which he was  dashing was a deep   
trench1 just where the road took a turn 
towards the  right1 and over this he    
sprang in a sideward direction4  ,the   
halter broke  with the effort2 the pony 
shot forward like an arrow1 whilst ,i   
fell back  into the dust4    8,seor10   
said the gypsy1 coming up with the most 
serious countenance in  the world1 8,i  
told you not to mount that animal unless

 well bridled and  bitted4  ,he is a    
baggage pony1 and will suffer none to   
mount his back1  with the exception of  
myself who feed him40  7,here he        
whistled1 and the  animal1 who was      
scurring over the field1 and            
occasionally kicking up his  heels1     
instantly returned with a gentle neigh47
  8,now1 your worship1 see  how gentle  
he is4  ,he is a capital baggage pony1  
and will carry all you  have over the   
hills of ,galicia40    8,what do you ask
 for him80 said ,i4    8,seor1 as your  
worship is an ,englishman1 and a good   
ginete1 and1  moreover1 understands the 
ways of the ,calor1 and their tricks and
  their language also1 ,i will sell him 
to you a bargain4  ,i will take two     
hundred and sixty dollars for him1 and  
no less40    8,that is a large sum10    
said ,i4    8,no1 seor1 not at all1     
considering that he is a baggage pony1  
and  belongs to the troop1 and is not   
mine to sell40    ,two hours' ride      
brought us to ,palencia1 #cji;a a fine  

old town1  beautifully situated on the  
,carrion1 and famous for its trade in   
wool4  ,we put up at the best posada    
which the place afforded1 and ,i        
forthwith  proceeded to visit one of the
 principal merchants of the town1 to    
whom ,i  was recommended by my banker in
 ,madrid4  ,i was told1 however1 that he
 was  taking his siesta4  8,then ,i had 
better take my own10 said ,i1 and       
returned to the posada4  ,in the evening
 ,i went again1 when ,i saw him4  ,he   
was a short bulky man1 about thirty1 and
 received me at first with  some degree 
of bluntness2 his manner1 however1      
presently became more  kind1 and at last
 he scarcely appeared to know how to    
show me sufficient  civility4  ,his     
brother had just arrived from           
,santander1 and to him he  introduced   
me4  ,this last was a highly intelligent
 person1 and had passed  many years of  
his life in ,england4  ,they both       
insisted upon showing me  the town1 and1
 indeed1 led me all over it1 and about  

the neighbourhood4  ,i particularly     
admired the cathedral1 a light1 elegant1
 but ancient  ,gothic edifice4 #cji;b   
,whilst we walked about the aisles1 the 
evening  sun1 pouring its mellow rays   
through the arched windows1 illumined   
some  beautiful paintings of ,murillo1  
#caj;a with which the sacred edifice is 
adorned4  ,from the church my friends   
conducted me to a fulling mill in  the  
neighbourhood1 by a picturesque walk4   
,there was no lack either of  trees or  
water1 and ,i remarked1 that the        
environs of ,palencia were  amongst the 
most pleasant places that ,i had ever   
seen4    ,tired at last with rambling1  
we repaired to a coffee-house1 where    
they  regaled me with chocolate and     
sweetmeats4  ,such was their            
hospitality2  and of hospitality of this
 simple and agreeable kind there is much
 in  ,spain4    ,on the next day we     
pursued our journey1 a dreary one1 for  
the most part1  over bleak and barren   
plains1 interspersed with silent and    

cheerless  towns and villages1 which    
stood at the distance of two or three   
leagues  from each other4  ,about midday
 we obtained a dim and distant view of  
an  immense range of mountains1 #caj;b  
which are in fact those which bound     
,castile on the north4  ,the day1       
however1 became dim and obscure1 and we 
speedily lost sight of them4  ,a hollow 
wind now arose and blew over these      
desolate plains with violence1 wafting  
clouds of dust into our faces2 the  rays
 of the sun were few1 and those red and 
angry4  ,i was tired of my  journey1 and
 when about four we reached ---1 #caa a 
large village1  halfway between         
,palencia and ,leon1 ,i declared my     
intention of stopping  for the night4   
,i scarcely ever saw a more desolate    
place than this same  town or village of
 ---4  ,the houses were for the most    
part large1 but the  walls were of mud1 
like those of barns4  ,we saw no person 
in the long  winding street to direct us
 to the venta1 or posada1 till at last1 

at  the farther end of the place1 we    
descried two black figures standing at a
  door1 of whom1 on making inquiry1 we  
learned that the door at which they     
stood was that of the house we were in  
quest of4  ,there was something  strange
 in the appearance of these two beings1 
who seemed the genii of  the place4     
,one was a small slim man1 about fifty1 
with sharp ill-natured  features4  ,he  
was dressed in coarse black worsted     
stockings1 black  breeches1 and an ample
 black coat with long trailing skirts4  
,i should at  once have taken him for an
 ecclesiastic1 but for his hat1 which   
had  nothing clerical about it1 being a 
pinched diminutive beaver4  ,his        
companion was of low stature1 and a much
 younger man4  ,he was dressed in       
similar fashion1 save that he wore a    
dark blue cloak4  ,both carried         
walking-sticks in their hands1 and kept 
hovering about the door1 now  within and
 now without1 occasionally looking up   
the road1 as if they  expected some one4

    8,trust me1 mon matre10 said        
,antonio to me1 in ,french1 8those two  
fellows are ,carlist priests1 and are   
awaiting the arrival of the  ,pretender4
  ,les imbeciles60    ,we conducted our 
horses to the stable1 to which we were  
shown by the  woman of the house4  8,who
 are those men80 said ,i to her4        
8,the eldest is head curate to our      
pueblo10 said she2 8the other is        
brother to my husband4  ,pobrecito6 he  
was a friar in our convent before  it   
was shut up and the brethren driven     
forth40    ,we returned to the door4    
8,i suppose1 gentlemen10 said the       
curate1 8that  you are ,catalans8  ,do  
you bring any news from that kingdom80  
8,why do you suppose we are ,catalans80 
,i demanded4    8,because ,i heard you  
this moment conversing in that          
language40    8,i bring no news from    
,catalonia10 #cab said ,i4  8,i believe1
 however1  that the greater part of that
 principality is in the hands of the    
,carlists40    8,ahem1 brother ,pedro6  

,this gentleman says that the greater   
part of  ,catalonia is in the hands of  
the royalists4  ,pray1 sir1 where may   
,don  ,carlos be at present with his    
army80    8,he may be coming down the   
road this moment10 said ,i1 8for what ,i
 know20  and1 stepping out1 ,i looked up
 the way4    ,the two figures were at my
 side in a moment4  ,antonio followed1  
and we  all four looked intently up the 
road4    8,do you see anything80 said ,i
 at last to ,antonia4    8,non1 mon     
matre40    8,do you see anything1 sir80 
said ,i to the curate4    8,i see       
nothing10 said the curate1 stretching   
out his neck4    8,i see nothing10 said 
,pedro1 the ex-friar2 8,i see nothing   
but the dust1  which is becoming every  
moment more blinding40    8,i shall go  
in1 then10 said ,i4  8,indeed1 it is    
scarcely prudent to be  standing here   
looking out for the ,pretender2 should  
the nationals of the  town hear of it1  
they might perhaps shoot us40           
8,ahem60 said the curate1 following me2 

8there are no nationals in this  place3 
,i would fain see what inhabitant would 
dare become a national4  ,when the      
inhabitants of this place were ordered  
to take up arms as  nationals1 they     
refused to a man1 and on that account we
 had to pay a  mulct2 therefore1 friend1
 you may speak out if you have anything 
to  communicate2 we are all of your     
opinion here40    8,i am of no opinion  
at all10 said ,i1 8save that ,i want my 
supper4  ,i am  neither for ,rey nor    
,roque4 #cac  ,you say that ,i am a     
,catalan1 and  you know that ,catalans  
think only of their own affairs40    ,in
 the evening ,i strolled by myself about
 the village1 which ,i found  still more
 forlorn and melancholy that it at first
 appeared2 perhaps1  however1 it had    
been a place of consequence in its time4
  ,in one corner  of it ,i found the    
ruins of a large clumsy castle1 chiefly 
built of flint  stones3 into these ruins
 ,i attempted to penetrate1 but the     
entrance was  secured by a gate4  ,from 

the castle ,i found my way to the       
convent1 a sad  desolate place1 formerly
 the residence of mendicant brothers of 
the order  of ,st4 ,francis4  ,i was    
about to return to the inn1 when ,i     
heard a loud  buzz of voices1 and1      
following the sound1 presently reached a
 kind of  meadow1 where1 upon a small   
knoll1 sat a priest in full canonicals1 
reading in a loud voice a newspaper1    
while around him1 either erect or       
seated on the grass1 were assembled     
about fifty vecinos1 for the most  part 
dressed in long cloaks1 amongst whom ,i 
discovered my two friends the  curate   
and friar4  ,a fine knot of ,carlist    
quidnuncs1 said ,i to myself1  and      
turned away to another part of the      
meadow1 where the cattle of the  village
 were grazing4  ,the curate1 on         
observing me1 detached himself          
instantly from the group1 and followed4 
8,i am told you want a pony10  said he2 
8there now is mine feeding amongst those
 horses1 the best in the  kingdom of    

,leon40  ,he then began with all the    
volubility of a chalan to  descant on   
the points of the animal4  ,presently   
the friar joined us1 who1  observing his
 opportunity1 pulled me by the sleeve   
and whispered1 8,have  nothing to do    
with the curate1 master2 he is the      
greatest thief in the  neighbourhood4   
,if you want a pony1 my brother has a   
much better1 which  he will dispose of  
cheaper40  8,i shall wait till ,i arrive
 at ,leon10 ,i  exclaimed1 and walked   
away1 musing on priestly friendship and 
sincerity4    ,from --- to ,leon1 a     
distance of eight leagues1 the country  
rapidly  improved3 we passed over       
several small streams1 and occasionally 
found  ourselves amongst meadows in     
which grass was growing in the richest  
luxuriance4  ,the sun shone out         
brightly1 and ,i hailed his reappearance
  with joy1 though the heat of his beams
 was oppressive4  ,on arriving  within  
two leagues of ,leon1 we passed numerous
 cars and waggons1 and  bands of people 

with horses and mules1 all hastening to 
the celebrated  fair which is held in   
the city on ,st4 ,john's or ,midsummer  
day1 and which  took place within three 
days after our arrival4  ,this fair1    
though  principally intended for the    
sale of horses1 is frequented by        
merchants  from many parts of ,spain1   
who attend with goods of various kinds1 
and  amongst them ,i remarked many of   
the ,catalans whom ,i had previously    
seen  at ,medina and ,valladolid4       
,there is nothing remarkable in ,leon1  
#cae which is an old gloomy town1  with 
the exception of its cathedral1 in many 
respects a counterpart of  the church of
 ,palencia1 exhibiting the same light   
and elegant  architecture1 but1 unlike  
its beautiful sister1 unadorned with    
splendid  paintings4  ,the situation of 
,leon is highly pleasant1 in the midst  
of a  blooming country1 abounding with  
trees1 and watered by many streams1     
which have their source in the mighty   
mountains in the neighbourhood4  ,it    

is1 however1 by no means a healthy      
place1 especially in summer1 when the   
heats raise noxious exhalations from the
 waters1 generating many kinds of       
disorders1 especially fevers4    ,i had 
scarcely been at ,leon three days when  
,i was seized with a fever1  against    
which ,i thought the strength even of my
 constitution would have  yielded1 for  
it wore me almost to a skeleton1 and    
when it departed1 at  the end of about a
 week1 left me in such a deplorable     
state of weakness  that ,i was scarcely 
able to make the slightest exertion4  ,i
 had1 however1  previously persuaded a  
bookseller to undertake the charge of   
vending the  ,testaments1 and had       
published my advertisements as usual1   
though without  very sanguine hope of   
success1 as ,leon is a place where the  
inhabitants1  with very few exceptions1 
are furious ,carlists1 and ignorant and 
blinded  followers of the old papal     
church4  ,it is1 moreover1 a bishop's   
see1  which was once enjoyed by the     

prime counsellor of ,don ,carlos1 whose 
fierce and bigoted spirit still seems to
 pervade the place4  ,scarcely had  the 
advertisements appeared1 when the clergy
 were in motion4  ,they went  from house
 to house1 banning and cursing1 and     
denouncing misery to  whomsoever should 
either purchase or read 8the accursed   
books10 which had  been sent into the   
country by heretics for the purpose of  
perverting the  innocent minds of the   
population4  ,they did more2 they       
commenced a  process against the        
bookseller in the ecclesiastical court4 
,fortunately  this court is not at      
present in the possession of much       
authority2 and the  bookseller1 a bold  
and determined man1 set them at         
defiance1 and went so  far as to affix  
an advertisement to the gate of the very
 cathedral4  ,notwithstanding the cry   
raised against the book1 several copies 
were sold  at ,leon3 two were purchased 
by ex-friars1 and the same number by    
parochial priests from neighbouring     

villages4  ,i believe the whole number  
disposed of during my stay amounted to  
fifteen2 so that my visit to this  dark 
corner was not altogether in vain1 as   
the seed of the ,gospel has  been sown1 
though sparingly4  ,but the palpable    
darkness which envelops  ,leon is truly 
lamentable1 and the ignorance of the    
people is so great1  that printed charms
 and incantations against ,satan and his
 host1 and  against every kind of       
misfortune1 are publicly sold in the    
shops1 and are  in great demand4  ,such 
are the results of ,popery1 a delusion  
which1 more  than any other1 has tended 
to debase and brutalize the human mind4 
,i had scarcely risen from my bed where 
the fever had cast me1 when ,i  found   
that ,antonio had become alarmed4  ,he  
informed me that he had seen  several   
soldiers in the uniform of ,don ,carlos 
lurking at the door of the  posada1 and 
that they had been making inquiries     
concerning me4    ,it was indeed a      
singular fact connected with ,leon1 that

 upwards of fifty  of these fellows1 who
 had on various accounts left the ranks 
of the  ,pretender1 were walking about  
the streets dressed in his livery1 and  
with  all the confidence which the      
certainty of protection from the local  
authorities could afford them should any
 one be disposed to interrupt  them4    
,i learned moreover from ,antonio1 that 
the person in whose house we were       
living was a notorious alcahuete1 or spy
 to the robbers in the  neighbourhood1  
and that unless we took our departure   
speedily and  unexpectedly1 we should to
 a certainty be plundered on the road4  
,i did  not pay much attention to these 
hints1 but my desire to quit ,leon was  
great1 as ,i was convinced that as long 
as ,i continued there ,i should be      
unable to regain my health and vigour4  
,accordingly1 at three in the morning1  
we departed for ,galicia4  ,we had      
scarcely proceeded half a league when we
 were overtaken by a thunderstorm  of   
tremendous violence4  ,we were at that  

time in the midst of a wood  which      
extends to some distance in the         
direction in which we were going4  ,the 
trees were bowed almost to the ground by
 the wind or torn up by the  roots1     
whilst the earth was ploughed up by the 
lightning1 which burst all  around and  
nearly blinded us4  ,the spirited       
,andalusian on which ,i rode  became    
furious1 and bounded into the air as if 
possessed4  ,owing to my  state of      
weakness1 ,i had the greatest difficulty
 in maintaining my seat1  and avoiding a
 fall which might have been fatal4  ,a  
tremendous discharge  of rain followed  
the storm1 which swelled the brooks and 
streams and  flooded the surrounding    
country1 causing much damage amongst the
 corn4  ,after riding about five        
leagues1 we began to enter the          
mountainous  district which surrounds   
,astorga4  ,the heat now became almost  
suffocating2 swarms of flies began to   
make their appearance1 and settling     
down upon the horses1 stung them almost 

to madness1 whilst the road was  very   
flinty and trying4  ,it was with great  
difficulty that we reached  ,astorga1   
#cah covered with mud and dust1 our     
tongues cleaving to our  palates with   
thirst4          ,,chapter ,,xxiii4     
,astorga--,the ,inn--,the               
,maragatos--,habits of the              
,maragatos--,the ,statue4    ,we went to
 a posada in the suburbs1 the only one1 
indeed1 which the  place afforded4  ,the
 courtyard was full of arrieros and     
carriers1  brawling loudly2 the master  
of the house was fighting with two of   
his  customers1 and universal confusion 
reigned around4  ,as ,i dismounted ,i   
received the contents of a wine-glass in
 my face1 of which greeting1 as  it was 
probably intended for another1 ,i took  
no notice4  ,antonio1  however1 was not 
so patient1 for on being struck with a  
cudgel1 he  instantly returned the      
salute with his whip1 scarifying the    
countenance  of a carman4  ,in my       
endeavours to separate these two        

antagonists1 my  horse broke loose1 and 
rushing amongst the promiscuous crowd1  
overturned  several individuals1 and    
committed no little damage4  ,it was a  
long time  before peace was restored3 at
 last we were shown to a tolerably      
decent  chamber4  ,we had1 however1 no  
sooner taken possession of it1 than the 
waggon from ,madrid arrived on its way  
to ,corunna1 #cai filled with dusty     
travellers1 consisting of women1        
children1 invalid officers1 and the     
like4  ,we were now forthwith dislodged1
 and our baggage flung into the  yard4  
,on our complaining of this treatment1  
we were told that we were  two vagabonds
 whom nobody knew2 who had come without 
an arriero1 and  had already set the    
whole house in confusion4  ,as a great  
favour1  however1 we were at length     
permitted to take up our abode in a     
ruinous  building down the yard1        
adjoining the stable1 and filled with   
rats and  vermin4  ,here there was an   
old bed with a tester1 and with this    

wretched  accommodation we were glad to 
content ourselves1 for ,i could proceed 
no  farther1 and was burnt with fever4  
,the heat of the place was  intolerable1
 and ,i sat on the staircase with my    
head between my hands1  gasping for     
breath3 soon appeared ,antonio with     
vinegar and water1 which ,i  drank1 and 
felt relieved4    ,we continued in this 
suburb three days1 during the greatest  
part of which  time ,i was stretched on 
the tester-bed4  ,i once or twice       
contrived to  make my way into the town1
 but found no bookseller1 nor any person
  willing to undertake the charge of    
disposing of my ,testaments4  ,the      
people were brutal1 stupid1 and uncivil1
 and ,i returned to my tester-bed       
fatigued and dispirited4  ,here ,i lay  
listening from time to time to the      
sweet chimes which rang from the clock  
of the old cathedral4  ,the master  of  
the house never came near me1 nor1      
indeed1 once inquired about me4         
,beneath the care of ,antonio1 however1 

,i speedily waxed stronger4  8,mon      
matre10 said he to me one evening1 8,i  
see you are better2 let us quit  this   
bad town and worse posada to-morrow     
morning4  ,allons1 mon  matre6  ,il est 
temps de nous mettre en chemin pour     
,lugo et ,galice40    ,before           
proceeding1 however1 to narrate what    
befell us in this journey to  ,lugo and 
,galicia1 it will1 perhaps1 not be amiss
 to say a few words  concerning ,astorga
 and its vicinity4  ,it is a walled     
town1 containing  about five or six     
thousand inhabitants1 with a cathedral  
and college1  which last is1 however1 at
 present deserted4  ,it is situated on  
the  confines1 and may be called the    
capital1 of a tract of land called the  
country of the ,maragatos1 which        
occupies about three square leagues1 and
  has for its north-western boundary a  
mountain called ,telleno1 the  loftiest 
of a chain of hills which have their    
origin near the mouth of  the river     
,minho1 and are connected with the      

immense range which  constitutes the    
frontier of the ,asturias and           
,guipuzcoa4    ,the land is ungrateful  
and barren1 and niggardly repays the    
toil of the  cultivator1 being for the  
most part rocky1 with a slight          
sprinkling of  red brick earth4    ,the 
,maragatos #cba are perhaps the most    
singular caste to be found  amongst the 
chequered population of ,spain4  ,they  
have their own peculiar  customs and    
dress1 and never intermarry with the    
,spaniards4  ,their name  is a clue to  
their origin1 as it signifies 8,moorish 
,goths10 and at the  present day their  
garb differs but little from that of the
 ,moors of  ,barbary1 as it consists of 
a long tight jacket1 secured at the     
waist by a  broad girdle1 loose short   
trousers which terminate at the knee1   
and boots  and gaiters4  ,their heads   
are shaven1 a slight fringe of hair     
being only  left at the lower part4  ,if
 they wore the turban1 or barret1 #cbb  
they  could scarcely be distinguished   

from the ,moors in dress2 but in lieu   
thereof they wear the sombrero1 or broad
 slouching hat of ,spain4  ,there  can  
be little doubt that they are a remnant 
of those ,goths who sided with  the     
,moors on their invasion of ,spain1 and 
who adopted their religion1  customs1   
and manner of dress1 which1 with the    
exception of the first1 are  still to a 
considerable degree retained by them4   
,it is1 however1 evident  that their    
blood has at no time mingled with that  
of the wild children of  the desert1 for
 scarcely amongst the hills of ,norway  
would you find  figures and faces more  
essentially ,gothic than those of the   
,maragatos4  ,they are strong athletic  
men1 but loutish and heavy1 and their   
features1  though for the most part well
 formed1 are vacant and devoid of       
expression4  ,they are slow and plain of
 speech1 and those eloquent and         
imaginative sallies so common in the    
conversation of other ,spaniards  seldom
 or never escape them2 they have1       

moreover1 a coarse1 thick               
pronunciation1 and when you hear them   
speak1 you almost imagine that it  is   
some ,german or ,english peasant        
attempting to express himself in the    
language of the ,peninsula4  ,they are  
constitutionally phlegmatic1 and it  is 
very difficult to arouse their anger2   
but they are dangerous and  desperate   
when once incensed2 and a person who    
knew them well told me  that he would   
rather face ten ,valencians1 people     
infamous for their  ferocity and        
blood-thirstiness1 than confront one    
angry ,maragato1  sluggish and stupid   
though he be on other occasions4    ,the
 men scarcely ever occupy themselves in 
husbandry1 which they abandon  to the   
women1 who plough the flinty fields and 
gather in the scanty  harvests4  ,their 
husbands and sons are far differently   
employed3 for they  are a nation of     
arrieros1 or carriers1 and almost esteem
 it a disgrace  to follow any other     
profession4  ,on every road of ,spain1  

particularly  those north of the        
mountains which divide the two          
,castiles1 may be seen  gangs of fives  
and sixes of these people lolling or    
sleeping beneath the  broiling sun1 on  
gigantic and heavily laden mutes and    
mules4 #cbc  ,in a  word1 almost the    
entire commerce of nearly one-half of   
,spain passes  through the hands of the 
,maragatos1 whose fidelity to their     
trust is  such1 that no one accustomed  
to employ them would hesitate to confide
 to  them the transport of a ton of     
treasure from the sea of ,biscay to     
,madrid2  knowing well that it would not
 be their fault were it not delivered   
safe  and undiminished1 even of a grain1
 and that bold must be the thieves who  
would seek to wrest it from the         
far-feared ,maragatos1 who would cling  
to  it whilst they could stand1 and     
would cover it with their bodies when   
they fell in the act of loading or      
discharging their long carbines4    ,but
 they are far from being disinterested1 

and if they are the most  trustworthy of
 all the arrieros of ,spain1 they in    
general demand for  the transport of    
articles a sum at least double to what  
others of the  trade would esteem a     
reasonable recompense4  ,by this means  
they  accumulate large sums of money1   
notwithstanding that they indulge       
themselves in far superior fare to that 
which contents in general the           
parsimonious ,spaniard--another argument
 in favour of their pure ,gothic        
descent2 for the ,maragatos1 like true  
men of the north1 delight in  swilling  
liquors and battening upon gross and    
luscious meats1 which help  to swell out
 their tall and goodly figures4  ,many  
of them have died  possessed of         
considerable riches1 part of which they 
have not  unfrequently bequeathed to the
 erection or embellishment of religious 
houses4    ,on the east end of the      
cathedral of ,astorga1 #cbd;a which     
towers over the  lofty and precipitous  
wall1 a colossal figure of lead may be  

seen on the  roof4  ,it is the statue of
 a ,maragato carrier1 who endowed the   
cathedral  with a large sum4 #cbd;b  ,he
 is in his national dress1 but his head 
is  averted from the land of his        
fathers1 and whilst he waves in his hand
 a  species of flag1 he seems to be     
summoning his race from their unfruitful
  region to other climes1 where a richer
 field is open to their industry  and   
enterprise4    ,i spoke to several of   
these men respecting the all-important  
subject of  religion2 but ,i found      
8their hearts gross1 and their ears dull
 of  hearing1 and their eyes closed40   
,there was one in particular to whom ,i 
showed the ,new ,testament1 and whom ,i 
addressed for a considerable time4  ,he 
listened1 or seemed to listen1          
patiently1 taking occasionally copious  
draughts from an immense jug of whitish 
wine which stood between his  knees4    
,after ,i had concluded1 he said1       
8,to-morrow ,i set out for ,lugo1       
whither1 ,i am told1 yourself are going4

  ,if you wish to send your chest1  ,i  
have no objection to take it at so much0
 7naming an extravagant price74  8,as   
for what you have told me1 ,i understand
 little of it1 and believe not  a word  
of it2 but in respect to the books which
 you have shown me1 ,i will  take three 
or four4  ,i shall not read them1 it is 
true1 but ,i have no  doubt that ,i can 
sell them at a higher price than you    
demand40    ,so much for the ,maragatos4
          ,,chapter ,,xxiv4             
,departure from ,astorga--,the          
,venta--,the ,by-path--,narrow          
,escape--,the ,cup of  ,water--,sun and 
,shade--,bembibre--,convent of the      
,rocks--,sunset--,cacabelos--,midnight  
,adventure--,villafranca4    ,it was    
four o'clock of a beautiful morning when
 we sallied from ,astorga1  or rather   
from its suburbs1 in which we had been  
lodged3 we directed our  course to the  
north1 in the direction of ,galicia4    
,leaving the mountain  ,telleno on our  
left1 we passed along the eastern skirts

 of the land of  the ,maragatos1 over   
broken uneven ground1 enlivened here and
 there by  small green valleys and      
runnels of water4  ,several of the      
,maragatan  women1 mounted on donkeys1  
passed us on their way to ,astorga1     
whither  they were carrying vegetables4 
,we saw others in the fields handling   
their rude ploughs1 drawn by lean oxen4 
,we likewise passed through a  small    
village1 in which we1 however1 saw no   
living soul4  ,near this  village we    
entered the high-road which leads direct
 from ,madrid to  ,corunna1 and at last1
 having travelled near four leagues1 we 
came to a  species of pass1 formed on   
our left by a huge lumpish hill 7one of 
those  which descend from the great     
mountain ,telleno71 and on our right by 
one  of much less altitude4  ,in the    
middle of this pass1 which was of       
considerable breadth1 a noble view      
opened itself to us4  ,before us1 at    
the distance of about a league and a    
half1 rose the mighty frontier  chain1  

of which ,i have spoken before2 its blue
 sides and broken and  picturesque peaks
 still wearing a thin veil of the       
morning mist1 which  the fierce rays of 
the sun were fast dispelling4  ,it      
seemed an enormous  barrier1 threatening
 to oppose our further progress1 and it 
reminded me  of the fables respecting   
the children of ,magog1 #cbg;a who are  
said to  reside in remotest ,tartary1   
behind a gigantic wall of rocks1 which  
can  only be passed by a gate of steel a
 thousand cubits in height4    ,we      
shortly after arrived at ,manzanal1     
#cbg;b a village consisting of  wretched
 huts1 and exhibiting every sign of     
poverty and misery4  ,it was  now time  
to refresh ourselves and horses1 and we 
accordingly put up at a  venta1 the last
 habitation in the village1 where1      
though we found  barley for the animals1
 we had much difficulty in procuring    
anything for  ourselves4  ,i was at     
length fortunate enough to obtain a     
large jug of  milk1 for there were      

plenty of cows in the neighbourhood1    
feeding in a  picturesque valley which  
we had passed by1 where was abundance of
 grass1  and trees1 and a rivulet broken
 by tiny cascades4  ,the jug might      
contain  about half a gallon1 but ,i    
emptied it in a few minutes1 for the    
thirst of  fever was still burning      
within me1 though ,i was destitute of   
appetite4  ,the venta had something the 
appearance of a ,german baiting-house4  
,it  consisted of an immense stable1    
from which was partitioned a kind of    
kitchen and a place where the family    
slept4  ,the master1 a robust young     
man1 lolled on a large solid stone      
bench1 which stood within the door4  ,he
 was very inquisitive respecting news1  
but ,i could afford him none1  whereupon
 he became communicative1 and gave me   
the history of his life1  the sum of    
which was1 that he had been a courier in
 the ,basque provinces1  but about a    
year since had been dispatched to this  
village1 where he kept  the post-house4 

,he was an enthusiastic liberal1 and    
spoke in bitter  terms of the           
surrounding population1 who1 he said1   
were all ,carlists and  friends of the  
friars4  ,i paid little attention to his
 discourse1 for ,i  was looking at a    
,maragato lad of about fourteen1 who    
served in the house  as a kind of       
ostler4  ,i asked the master if we were 
still in the land of  the ,maragatos2   
but he told me that we had left it      
behind nearly a league1  and that the   
lad was an orphan1 and was serving until
 he could rake up  sufficient capital to
 become an arriero4  ,i addressed       
several questions  to the boy1 but the  
urchin looked sullenly in my face1 and  
either  answered by monosyllables or was
 doggedly silent4  ,i asked him if he   
could read4  8,yes10 said he1 8as much  
as that brute of yours which is  tearing
 down the manger40    ,quitting         
,manzanal1 we continued our course4  ,we
 soon arrived at the verge  of a deep   
valley amongst mountains--not those of  

the chain which we had  seen before us1 
and which we now left to the right1 but 
those of the  ,telleno range1 just      
before they unite with that chain4      
,round the sides  of this valley1 which 
exhibited something of the appearance of
 a  horse-shoe1 wound the road in a     
circuitous manner2 just before us1      
however1 and diverging from the road1   
lay a footpath1 which seemed1 by a      
gradual descent1 to lead across the     
valley1 and to rejoin the road on the   
other side1 at the distance of about a  
furlong1 and into this we struck1  in   
order to avoid the circuit4    ,we had  
not gone far before we met two          
,galicians on their way to cut the      
harvests of ,castile4  ,one of them     
shouted1 8,cavalier1 #cbi turn back3 in 
a moment you will be amongst precipices1
 where your horses will break  their    
necks1 for we ourselves could scarcely  
climb them on foot40  ,the  other cried1
 8,cavalier1 proceed1 but be careful1   
and your horses1 if  surefooted1 will   

run no great danger3 my comrade is a    
fool40  ,a violent  dispute instantly   
ensued between the two mountaineers1    
each supporting  his opinion with loud  
oaths and curses2 but without stopping  
to see the  result1 ,i passed on4  ,but 
the path was now filled with stones and 
huge  slaty rocks1 on which my horse was
 continually slipping4  ,i likewise     
heard the sound of water in a deep      
gorge1 which ,i had hitherto not        
perceived1 and ,i soon saw that it would
 be worse than madness to proceed4  ,i  
turned my horse1 and was hastening to   
regain the path which ,i had left1  when
 ,antonio1 my faithful ,greek1 pointed  
out to me a meadow by which1 he  said1  
we might regain the highroad much lower 
down than if we returned on  our steps4 
,the meadow was brilliant with short    
green grass1 and in the  middle there   
was a small rivulet of water4  ,i       
spurred my horse on1  expecting to be in
 the high-road in a moment2 the horse1  
however1 snorted  and stared wildly1 and

 was evidently unwilling to cross the   
seemingly  inviting spot4  ,i thought   
that the scent of a wolf or some other  
wild  animal might have disturbed him1  
but was soon undeceived by his sinking  
up to the knees in a bog4  ,the animal  
uttered a shrill sharp neigh1 and       
exhibited every sign of the greatest    
terror1 making at the same time  great  
efforts to extricate himself1 and       
plunging forward1 but every  moment     
sinking deeper4  ,at last he arrived    
where a small vein of rock  showed      
itself3 on this he placed his fore feet1
 and with one tremendous  exertion freed
 himself from the deceitful soil1       
springing over the  rivulet and         
alighting on comparatively firm ground1 
where he stood  panting1 his heaving    
sides covered with a foamy sweat4       
,antonio1 who had  observed the whole   
scene1 afraid to venture forward1       
returned by the path  by which we came1 
and shortly afterwards rejoined me4     
,this adventure  brought to my          

recollection the meadow with its        
footpath which tempted  ,christian from 
the straight road to heaven1 and finally
 conducted him to  the dominions of the 
giant ,despair4    ,we now began to     
descend the valley by a broad and       
excellent carretera  or carriage-road1  
which was cut out of the steep side of  
the mountain on  our right4  ,on our    
left was the gorge1 down which tumbled  
the runnel of  water which ,i have      
before mentioned4  ,the road was        
tortuous1 and at every  turn the scene  
became more picturesque4  ,the gorge    
gradually widened1 and  the brook at its
 bottom1 fed by a multitude of springs1 
increased in  volume and in sound2 but  
it was soon far beneath us1 pursuing its
  headlong course till it reached level 
ground1 where it flowed in the  midst of
 a beautiful but confined prairie4      
,there was something sylvan  and savage 
in the mountains on the farther side1   
clad from foot to  pinnacle with trees1 
so closely growing that the eye was     

unable to obtain  a glimpse of the      
hillsides1 which were uneven with       
ravines and gulleys1  the haunts of the 
wolf1 the wild boar1 and the corso1     
#cca;a or  mountain stag2 the latter of 
which1 as ,i was informed by a peasant  
who  was driving a car of oxen1         
frequently descended to feed in the     
prairie1  and were there shot for the   
sake of their skins1 for the flesh1     
being  strong and disagreeable1 is held 
in no account4    ,but notwithstanding  
the wildness of these regions1 the      
handiworks of man  were visible4  ,the  
sides of the gorge1 though precipitous1 
were yellow  with little fields of      
barley1 and we saw a hamlet and church  
down in the  prairie below1 whilst merry
 songs ascended to our ears from where  
the  mowers were toiling with their     
scythes1 cutting the luxuriant and      
abundant grass4  ,i could scarcely      
believe that ,i was in ,spain1 in       
general  so brown1 so arid and          
cheerless1 and ,i almost fancied myself 

in ,greece1  in that land of ancient    
glory1 whose mountain and forest scenery
  ,theocritus #cca;b has so well        
described4    ,at the bottom of the     
valley we entered a small village1      
washed by the  brook1 which had now     
swelled almost to a stream4  ,a more    
romantic  situation ,i had never        
witnessed4  ,it was surrounded1 and     
almost overhung1  by mountains1 and     
embowered in trees of various kinds2    
waters sounded1  nightingales sang1 and 
the cuckoo's full note boomed from the  
distant  branches1 but the village was  
miserable4  ,the huts were built of     
slate  stones1 of which the neighbouring
 hills seemed to be principally         
composed1 and roofed with the same1 but 
not in the neat tidy manner of  ,english
 houses1 for the slates were of all     
sizes and seemed to be flung  on in     
confusion4  ,we were spent with heat and
 thirst1 and sitting down on  a stone   
bench1 ,i entreated a woman to give me a
 little water4  ,the woman  said she    

would1 but added that she expected to be
 paid for it4  ,antonio1  on hearing    
this1 became highly incensed1 and       
speaking ,greek1 ,turkish1 and          
,spanish1 invoked the vengeance of the  
,panhagia on the heartless woman1       
saying1 8,if ,i were to offer a         
,mahometan gold for a draught of water  
he  would dash it in my face2 and you   
are a ,catholic1 with the stream running
  at your door40  ,i told him to be     
silent1 and giving the woman two        
cuartos1 repeated my request1 whereupon 
she took a pitcher1 and going  to the   
stream1 filled it with water4  ,it      
tasted muddy and disagreeable1  but it  
drowned the fever which was devouring   
me4    ,we again remounted and proceeded
 on our way1 which1 for a considerable  
distance1 lay along the margin of the   
stream1 which now fell in small         
cataracts1 now brawled over stones1 and 
at other times ran dark and  silent     
through deep pools overhung with tall   
willows1--pools which seemed  to abound 

with the finny tribe1 for large trout   
frequently sprang from  the water1      
catching the brilliant fly which skimmed
 along its deceitful  surface4  ,the    
scene was delightful4  ,the sun was     
rolling high in the  firmament1 casting 
from its orb of fire the most glorious  
rays1 so that  the atmosphere was       
flickering with their splendour2 but    
their fierceness  was either warded off 
by the shadow of the trees1 or rendered 
innocuous  by the refreshing coolness   
which rose from the waters1 or by the   
gentle  breezes which murmured at       
intervals over the meadows1 8fanning the
 cheek  or raising the hair0 of the     
wanderer4  ,the hills gradually receded1
 till  at last we entered a plain where 
tall grass was waving1 and mighty       
chestnut trees1 in full blossom1 spread 
out their giant and umbrageous  boughs4 
,beneath many stood cars1 the tired oxen
 prostrate on the ground1  the cross-bar
 of the pole which they support pressing
 heavily on their  heads1 whilst their  

drivers were either employed in cooking1
 or were  enjoying a delicious siesta in
 the grass and shade4  ,i went up to one
  of the largest of these groups and    
demanded of the individuals whether     
they were in need of the ,testament of  
,jesus ,christ4  ,they stared at one    
another1 and then at me1 till at last a 
young man1 who was dangling a  long gun 
in his hands as he reclined1 demanded of
 me what it was1 at the  same time      
inquiring whether ,i was a ,catalan1    
8for you speak hoarse10 said  he1 8and  
are tall and fair like that family40  ,i
 sat down amongst them1  and said that  
,i was no ,catalan1 but that ,i came    
from a spot in the  ,western ,sea1 many 
leagues distant1 to sell that book at   
half the price it  cost2 and that their 
souls' welfare depended on their being  
acquainted  with it4  ,i then explained 
to them the nature of the ,new          
,testament1 and  read to them the       
parable of the ,sower4  ,they stared at 
each other again1  but said that they   

were poor1 and could not buy books4  ,i 
rose1 mounted1  and was going away1     
saying to them1 8,peace bide with you40 
,whereupon the  young man with the gun  
rose1 and saying1 8,caspita6 this is    
odd10  snatched the book from my hand1  
and gave me the price ,i had demanded4  
,perhaps the whole world might be       
searched in vain for a spot whose       
natural charms could rival those of this
 plain or valley of ,bembibre1  #ccc as 
it is called1 with its wall of mighty   
mountains1 its spreading  chestnut      
trees1 and its groves of oaks and       
willows1 which clothe the  banks of its 
stream1 a tributary to the ,minho4      
,true it is1 that when ,i  passed       
through it the candle of heaven was     
blazing in full splendour1 and          
everything lighted by its rays looked   
gay1 glad1 and blessed4  ,whether it    
would have filled me with the same      
feelings of admiration if viewed        
beneath another sky1 ,i will not pretend
 to determine2 but it certainly         

possesses advantages which at no time   
could fail to delight1 for it  exhibits 
all the peaceful beauties of an ,english
 landscape blended with  something wild 
and grand1 and ,i thought within myself 
that he must be a  restless1            
dissatisfied man1 who1 born amongst     
those scenes1 would wish to  quit them4 
,at the time ,i would have desired no   
better fate than that of  a shepherd on 
the prairies1 or a hunter on the hills  
of ,bembibre4    ,three hours passed    
away1 and we were in another situation4 
,we had halted  and refreshed ourselves 
and horses at ,bembibre1 a village of   
mud and  slate1 and which possessed     
little to attract attention4  ,we were  
now  ascending1 for the road was over   
one of the extreme ledges of those      
frontier hills which ,i have before so  
often mentioned2 but the aspect of      
heaven had blackened1 clouds were       
rolling rapidly from the west over the  
mountains1 and a cold wind was moaning  
dismally4  8,there is a storm           

travelling through the air10 said a     
peasant1 whom we overtook mounted on  a 
wretched mule1 8and the ,asturians had  
better be on the look-out1 for it  is   
speeding in their direction40  ,he had  
scarce spoken when a light1 so  vivid   
and dazzling that it seemed as if the   
whole lustre of the fiery  element were 
concentrated in it1 broke around us1    
filling the whole  atmosphere1 and      
covering rock1 tree1 and mountain with a
 glare not to be  described4  ,the mule 
of the peasant tumbled prostrate1 while 
the horse ,i  rode reared himself       
perpendicularly1 and1 turning round1    
dashed down the  hill at headlong speed1
 which for some time it was impossible  
to check4  ,the lightning was followed  
by a peal almost as terrible1 but       
distant1 for  it sounded hollow and     
deep2 the hills1 however1 caught up its 
voice1  seemingly repeating it from     
summit to summit1 till it was lost in   
interminable space4  ,other flashes and 
peals succeeded1 but slight in          

comparison1 and a few drops of rain     
descended4  ,the body of the tempest    
seemed to be over another region4  8,a  
hundred families are weeping where  that
 bolt fell10 said the peasant when ,i   
rejoined him1 8for its blaze has        
blinded my mule at six leagues'         
distance40  ,he was leading the animal  
by  the bridle1 as its sight was        
evidently affected4  8,were the friars  
still  in their nest above there10 he   
continued1 8,i should say that this was 
their doing1 for they are the cause of  
all the miseries of the land40    ,i    
raised my eyes in the direction in which
 he pointed4  ,halfway up the  mountain1
 over whose foot we were wending1 jutted
 forth a black  frightful1 crag1 which1 
at an immense altitude1 overhung the    
road1 and  seemed to threaten           
destruction4  ,it resembled one of those
 ledges of the  rocky mountains in the  
picture of the ,deluge1 up to which the 
terrified  fugitives have scrambled from
 the eager pursuit of the savage and    

tremendous billows1 and from whence they
 gaze down in horror1 whilst  above them
 rise still higher and giddier heights1 
to which they seem  unable to climb4    
,built on the very edge of this crag    
stood an edifice1  seemingly devoted to 
the purposes of religion1 as ,i could   
discern the  spire of a church rearing  
itself high over wall and roof4  8,that 
is the  house of the ,virgin of the     
,rocks10 said the peasant1 8and it was  
lately  full of friars1 but they have   
been thrust out1 and the only inmates   
now  are owls and ravens40  ,i replied1 
that their life in such a bleak1        
exposed abode could not have been very  
enviable1 as in winter they must  have  
incurred great risk of perishing with   
cold4  8,by no means10 said he2  8they  
had the best of wood for their braseros 
and chimneys1 and the  best of wine to  
warm them at their meals1 which were not
 the most  sparing4  ,moreover1 they had
 another convent down in the vale       
yonder1 to  which they could retire at  

their pleasure40  ,on my asking him the 
reason  of his antipathy to the friars1 
he replied1 that he had been their      
vassal1 and that they had deprived him  
every year of the flower of what  he    
possessed4  ,discoursing in this manner1
 we reached a village just  below the   
convent1 where he left me1 having first 
pointed out to me a  house of stone1    
with an image over the door1 which1 he  
said1 once  belonged to the canalla     
#ccg;a above4    ,the sun was setting   
fast1 and1 eager to reach ,villafranca1 
#ccg;b where ,i  had determined on      
resting1 and which was still distant    
three leagues and  a half1 ,i made no   
halt at this place4  ,the road was now  
down a rapid and  crooked descent1 which
 terminated in a valley1 at the bottom  
of which was  a long and narrow bridge2 
beneath it rolled a river1 descending   
from a  wide pass between two mountains1
 for the chain was here cleft1 probably 
by some convulsion of nature4  ,i looked
 up the pass1 and on the hills on  both 

sides4  ,far above on my right1 but     
standing forth bold and clear1  and     
catching the last rays of the sun1 was  
the ,convent of the ,precipices1  whilst
 directly over against it1 on the       
farther side of the valley1 rose  the   
perpendicular side of the rival hill1   
which1 to a considerable extent         
intercepting the light1 flung its black 
shadow over the upper end of the  pass1 
involving it in mysterious darkness4    
,emerging from the centre of  this      
gloom1 with thundering sound1 dashed a  
river1 white with foam1 and  bearing    
along with it huge stones and branches  
of trees1 for it was the  wild ,sil     
hurrying to the ocean from its cradle in
 the heart of the  ,asturian hills1 and 
probably swollen by the recent rains4   
,hours again passed away4  ,it was now  
night1 and we were in the midst of      
woodlands1 feeling our way1 for the     
darkness was so great that ,i could     
scarcely see the length of a yard before
 my horse's head4  ,the animal  seemed  

uneasy1 and would frequently stop short1
 prick up his ears1 and  utter a low    
mournful whine4  ,flashes of sheet      
lightning frequently  illumined the     
black sky1 and flung a momentary glare  
over our path4  ,no  sound interrupted  
the stillness of the night1 except the  
slow tramp of  the horses' hoofs1 and   
occasionally the croaking of frogs from 
some pool  or morass4  ,i now bethought 
me that ,i was in ,spain1 the chosen    
land of  the two fiends--assassination  
and plunder--and how easily two tired   
and  unarmed wanderers might become     
their victims4    ,we at last cleared   
the woodlands1 and1 after proceeding a  
short distance1  the horse gave a joyous
 neigh1 and broke into a smart trot4  ,a
 barking of  dogs speedily reached my   
ears1 and we seemed to be approaching   
some town  or village4  ,in effect we   
were close to ,cacabelos1 a town about  
five  miles distant from ,villafranca4  
,it was near eleven at night1 and ,i    
reflected that it would be far more     

expedient to tarry in this place till   
the morning than to attempt at  present 
to reach ,villafranca1 exposing         
ourselves to all the horrors of         
darkness in a lonely and unknown road4  
,my mind was soon made up on this       
point2 but ,i reckoned without my host1 
for at the first posada which ,i        
attempted to enter ,i was told that we  
could not be accommodated1 and  still   
less our horses1 as the stable was full 
of water4  ,at the second1  and there   
were but two1 ,i was answered from the  
window by a gruff voice1  nearly in the 
words of ,scripture3 8,trouble me not3  
the door is now shut1  and my children  
are with me in bed2 ,i cannot arise to  
let you in40  ,indeed1 we had no        
particular desire to enter1 as it       
appeared a wretched  hovel1 though the  
poor horses pawed piteously against the 
door1 and  seemed to crave admittance4  
,we had now no choice but to resume our 
doleful way to ,villafranca1 which  we  
were told was a short league distant1   

though it proved a league and a  half4  
,we found it no easy matter to quit the 
town1 for we were  bewildered amongst   
its labyrinths1 and could not find the  
outlet4  ,a lad  about eighteen was1    
however1 persuaded1 by the promise of a 
peseta1 to  guide us3 whereupon he led  
us by many turnings to a bridge1 which  
he told  us to cross1 and to follow the 
road1 which was that of ,villafranca2 he
  then1 having received his fee1        
hastened from us4    ,we followed his   
directions1 not1 however1 without a     
suspicion that he  might be deceiving   
us4  ,the night had settled darker down 
upon us1 so  that it was impossible to  
distinguish any object1 however nigh4   
,the  lightning had become more faint   
and rare4  ,we heard the rustling of    
trees1 and occasionally the barking of  
dogs1 which last sound1 however1  soon  
ceased1 and we were in the midst of     
night and silence4  ,my horse1  either  
from weariness or the badness of the    
road1 frequently stumbled2  whereupon ,i

 dismounted1 and leading him by the     
bridle1 soon left ,antonio  far in the  
rear4    ,i had proceeded in this manner
 a considerable way1 when a circumstance
  occurred of a character well suited to
 the time and place4    ,i was again    
amidst trees and bushes1 when the horse1
 stopping short1  nearly pulled me back4
  ,i know not how it was1 but fear      
suddenly came  over me1 which1 though in
 darkness and in solitude1 ,i had not   
felt  before4  ,i was about to urge the 
animal forward1 when ,i heard a noise at
  my right hand1 and listened           
attentively4  ,it seemed to be that of a
  person or persons forcing their way   
through branches and brushwood4  ,it    
soon ceased1 and ,i heard feet on the   
road4  ,it was the short staggering     
kind of tread of people carrying a very 
heavy substance1 nearly too much  for   
their strength1 and ,i thought ,i heard 
the hurried breathing of men            
over-fatigued4  ,there was a short      
pause1 during which ,i conceived they   

were resting in the middle of the road2 
then the stamping recommenced1  until it
 reached the other side1 when ,i again  
heard a similar rustling  amidst        
branches2 it continued for some time1   
and died gradually away4    ,i continued
 my road1 musing on what had just       
occurred1 and forming  conjectures as to
 the cause4  ,the lightning resumed its 
flashing1 and ,i  saw that ,i was       
approaching tall black mountains4       
,this nocturnal journey endured so long 
that ,i almost lost all hope of         
reaching the town1 and had closed my    
eyes in a doze1 though ,i still  trudged
 on mechanically1 leading the horse4    
,suddenly a voice at a slight  distance 
before me roared out1 8,quien vive80 for
 ,i had at last found my  way to        
,villafranca4  ,it proceeded from the   
sentry in the suburb1 one of  those     
singular half soldiers1 half guerillas1 
#cdj called ,miguelets1  who are in     
general employed by the ,spanish        
government to clear the roads  of       

robbers4  ,i gave the usual answer1     
8,espaa10 and went up to the  place     
where he stood4  ,after a little        
conversation1 ,i sat down on a  stone1  
awaiting the arrival of ,antonio1 who   
was long in making his  appearance4  ,on
 his arrival1 ,i asked if any one had   
passed him on the  road1 but he replied 
that he had seen nothing4  ,the night1  
or rather the  morning1 was still very  
dark1 though a small corner of the moon 
was  occasionally visible4  ,on our     
inquiring the way to the gate1 the      
,miguelet  directed us down a street to 
the left1 which we followed4  ,the      
street was  steep1 we could see no gate1
 and our progress was soon stopped by   
houses  and wall4  ,we knocked at the   
gates of two or three of these houses   
7in  the upper stories of which lights  
were burning71 for the purpose of being 
set right1 but we were either           
disregarded or not heard4  ,a horrid    
squalling of cats1 from the tops of the 
houses and dark corners1 saluted  our   

ears1 and ,i thought of the night       
arrival of ,don ,quixote and his  squire
 at ,toboso1 and their vain search      
amongst the deserted streets for  the   
palace of ,dulcinea4 #cda  ,at length we
 saw light and heard voices in  a       
cottage at the other side of a kind of  
ditch4  ,leading the horses over1  we   
called at the door1 which was opened by 
an aged man1 who appeared by  his dress 
to be a baker1 as indeed he proved1     
which accounted for his  being up at so 
late an hour4  ,on begging him to show  
us the way into the  town1 he led us up 
a very narrow alley at the end of his   
cottage1 saying  that he would likewise 
conduct us to the posada4    ,the alley 
led directly to what appeared to be the 
market-place1 at a  corner house of     
which our guide stopped and knocked4    
,after a long pause  an upper window was
 opened1 and a female voice demanded who
 we were4  ,the  old man replied1 that  
two travellers had arrived who were in  
need of  lodgings4  8,i cannot be       

disturbed at this time of night10 said  
the woman2  8they will be wanting       
supper1 and there is nothing in the     
house2 they  must go elsewhere40  ,she  
was going to shut the window1 but ,i    
cried that  we wanted no supper1 but    
merely a resting-place for ourselves and
  horses--that we had come that day from
 ,astorga1 and were dying with  fatigue4
  8,who is that speaking80 cried the    
woman4  8,surely that is the  voice of  
,gil1 the ,german clockmaker from       
,pontevedra4  ,welcome1 old  companion2 
you are come at the right time1 for my  
own is out of order4  ,i  am sorry ,i   
have kept you waiting1 but ,i will admit
 you in a moment40    ,the window was   
slammed to1 presently a light shone     
through the crevices  of the door1 a key
 turned in the lock1 and we were        
admitted4          ,,chapter ,,xxv4     
,villafranca--,the ,pass--,gallegan     
,simplicity--,the ,frontier ,guard--,the
  ,horse-shoe--,gallegan                
,peculiarities--,a ,word on             

,language--,the ,courier--,wretched     
,cabins--,host and                      
,guests--,andalusians4    8,ave ,maria10
 said the woman2 8whom have we here8    
,this is not ,gil the  clockmaker40     
8,whether it be ,gil or ,juan10 said ,i1
 8we are in need of  your hospitality1  
and can pay for it40  ,our first care   
was to stable the  horses1 who were much
 exhausted4  ,we then went in search of 
some  accommodation for ourselves4  ,the
 house was large and commodious1 and1   
having tasted a little water1 ,i        
stretched myself on the floor of one of 
the rooms on some mattresses which the  
woman produced1 and in less than a      
minute was sound asleep4    ,the sun was
 shining bright when ,i awoke4  ,i      
walked forth into the  market-place1    
which was crowded with people4  ,i      
looked up1 and could see  the peaks of  
tall black mountains peeping over the   
tops of the houses4  ,the town lay in a 
deep hollow1 and appeared to be         
surrounded by hills on  almost every    

side4  8,quel pays barbare60 said       
,antonio1 who now joined  me2 8the      
farther we go1 my master1 the wilder    
everything looks4  ,i am  half afraid to
 venture into ,galicia2 they tell me    
that to get to it we  must clamber up   
those hills3 the horses will founder40  
,leaving the  marketplace1 ,i ascended  
the wall of the town1 and endeavoured to
 discover  the gate by which we should  
have entered the preceding night2 but ,i
 was  not more successful in the bright 
sunshine than in the darkness4  ,the    
town in the direction of ,astorga       
appeared to be hermetically sealed4     
,i was eager to enter ,galicia1 and     
finding that the horses were to a       
certain extent recovered from the       
fatigue of the journey of the preceding 
day1 we again mounted and proceeded on  
our way4  ,crossing a bridge1 we        
presently found ourselves in a deep     
gorge amongst the mountains1 down  which
 rushed an impetuous rivulet1 overhung  
by the high-road which leads  into      

,galicia4  ,we were in the far-famed    
pass of ,fuencebadon4    ,it is         
impossible to describe this pass or the 
circumjacent region1 which  contains    
some of the most extraordinary scenery  
in all ,spain2 a feeble  and imperfect  
outline is all that ,i can hope to      
effect4  ,the traveller  who ascends it 
follows for nearly a league the course  
of the torrent1  whose banks are in some
 places precipitous1 and in others slope
 down to  the waters1 and are covered   
with lofty trees1 oaks1 poplars1 and    
chestnuts4  ,small villages are at first
 continually seen1 with low walls1  and 
roofs formed of immense slates1 the     
eaves nearly touching the ground2  these
 hamlets1 however1 gradually become less
 frequent as the path grows  more steep 
and narrow1 until they finally cease at 
a short distance  before the spot is    
attained where the rivulet is abandoned1
 and is no  more seen1 though its       
tributaries may yet be heard in many a  
gully1 or  descried in tiny rills       

dashing down the steeps4  ,everything   
here is wild1  strange1 and beautiful3  
the hill up which winds the path towers 
above on  the right1 whilst on the      
farther side of a profound ravine rises 
an  immense mountain1 to whose extreme  
altitudes the eye is scarcely able to   
attain2 but the most singular feature of
 this pass are the hanging fields  or   
meadows which cover its sides4  ,in     
these1 as ,i passed1 the grass was      
growing luxuriantly1 and in many the    
mowers were plying their scythes1       
though it seemed scarcely possible that 
their feet could find support on  ground
 so precipitous2 above and below were   
driftways1 so small as to  seem threads 
along the mountain side4  ,a car1 drawn 
by oxen1 is creeping  round yon airy    
eminence2 the nearer wheel is actually  
hanging over the  horrid descent2       
giddiness seizes the brain1 and the eye 
is rapidly  withdrawn4  ,a cloud        
intervenes1 and when again you turn to  
watch their  progress1 the objects of   

your anxiety have disappeared4  ,still  
more  narrow becomes the path along     
which you yourself are toiling1 and its 
turns more frequent4  ,you have already 
come a distance of two leagues1  and    
still one-third of the ascent remains   
unsurmounted4  ,you are not yet  in     
,galicia2 and you still hear ,castilian1
 coarse and unpolished1 it is  true1    
spoken in the miserable cabins placed in
 the sequestered nooks  which you pass  
by in your route4    ,shortly before we 
reached the summit of the pass thick    
mists began to  envelope the tops of the
 hills1 and a drizzling rain descended4 
8,these  mists10 said ,antonio1 8are    
what the ,gallegans call bretima2 and it
 is  said there is never any lack of    
them in their country40  8,have you ever
  visited the country before80 ,i       
demanded4  8,non1 mon matre2 but ,i     
have frequently lived in houses where   
the domestics were in part  ,gallegans1 
on which account ,i know not a little of
 their ways1 and even  something of     

their language40  8,is the opinion which
 you have formed of  them at all in     
their favour80 ,i inquired4  8,by no    
means1 mon matre2  the men in general   
seem clownish and simple1 yet they are  
capable of  deceiving the most clever   
filou of ,paris2 and as for the women1  
it is  impossible to live in the same   
house with them1 more especially if they
  are camareras1 and wait upon the      
seora2 they are continually  breeding   
dissensions and disputes in the house1  
and telling tales of the  other         
domestics4  ,i have already lost two or 
three excellent situations  in ,madrid1 
solely owing to these ,gallegan         
chambermaids4  ,we have now come  to the
 frontier1 mon matre1 for such ,i       
conceive this village to be40    ,we    
entered the village1 which stood on the 
summit of the mountain1 and1  as our    
horses and ourselves were by this time  
much fatigued1 we looked  round for a   
place in which to obtain refreshment4   
,close by the gate  stood a building    

which1 from the circumstance of a mule  
or two and a  wretched pony standing    
before it1 we concluded was the posada1 
as in  effect it proved to be4  ,we     
entered3 several soldiers were lolling  
on  heaps of coarse hay1 with which the 
place1 which much resembled a stable1   
was half filled4  ,all were exceedingly 
ill-looking fellows1 and very  dirty4   
,they were conversing with each other in
 a strange-sounding  dialect1 which ,i  
supposed to be ,gallegan4  ,scarcely did
 they perceive us  when two or three of 
them1 starting from their couch1 ran up 
to ,antonio1  whom they welcomed with   
much affection1 calling him companheiro4
  8,how  came you to know these men80 ,i
 demanded in ,french3 8,ces messieurs   
sont  presque tous de ma connoissance10 
he replied1 8et1 entre nous1 ce  sont de
 vritables vauriens2 they are almost all
 robbers and  assassins4  ,that fellow  
with one eye1 who is the corporal1      
escaped a  little time ago from ,madrid1
 more than suspected of being concerned 

in an  affair of poisoning2 but he is   
safe enough here in his own country1 and
  is placed to guard the frontier1 as   
you see8 but we must treat them         
civilly1 man matre2 we must give them   
wine1 or they will be offended4  ,i know
 them1 mon matre--,i know them4  ,here1 
hostess1 bring an azumbre  of wine40    
,whilst ,antonio was engaged in treating
 his friends1 ,i led the horses to  the 
stable2 this was through the house1 inn1
 or whatever it might be  called4  ,the 
stable was a wretched shed1 in which the
 horses sank to  their fetlocks in mud  
and puddle4  ,on inquiring for barley1  
,i was told  that ,i was now in         
,galicia1 where barley was not used for 
provender1 and  was very rare4  ,i was  
offered in lieu of it ,indian corn1     
which1 however1  the horses ate without 
hesitation4  ,there was no straw to be  
had2 coarse  hay1 half green1 being the 
substitute4  ,by trampling about in the 
mud of  the stable my horse soon lost a 
shoe1 for which ,i searched in vain4    

8,is  there a blacksmith in the         
village80 ,i demanded of a shock-headed 
fellow  who officiated as ostler4       
,ostler4--,si1 ,senhor2 #cdg but ,i     
suppose you have brought horseshoes     
with you1 or that large beast of yours  
cannot be shod in this village4         
,myself4--,what do you mean8  ,is the   
blacksmith unequal to his trade8        
,cannot he put on a horseshoe8          
,ostler4--,si1 ,senhor2 he can put on a 
horseshoe1 if you give it him2  but     
there are no horseshoes in ,galicia1 at 
least in these parts4    ,myself4--,is  
it not customary1 then1 to shoe the     
horses in ,galicia8                     
,ostler4--,senhor1 there are no horses  
in ,galicia1 there are only  ponies2 and
 those who bring horses to ,galicia--and
 none but madmen ever  do--must bring   
shoes to fit them2 only shoes of ponies 
are to be found  here4                  
,myself4--,what do you mean by saying   
that only madmen bring horses to        
,galicia8    ,ostler4--,senhor1 no horse

 can stand the food of ,galicia and the 
mountains of ,galicia long1 without     
falling sick2 and then1 if he does not  
die at once1 he will cost you in        
farriers more than he is worth4         
,besides1 a horse is of no use here1 and
 cannot perform amongst the broken      
ground the tenth part of the service    
which a little pony mare can4           
,by-the-by1 ,senhor1 ,i perceive that   
yours is an entire horse2 now out of    
twenty ponies that you see on the roads 
of ,galicia1 nineteen are mares2  the   
males are sent down into ,castile to be 
sold4  ,senhor1 your horse  will become 
heated on our roads1 and will catch the 
bad glanders1 for  which there is no    
remedy4  ,senhor1 a man must be mad to  
bring any horse  to ,galicia1 but twice 
mad to bring an entero1 as you have     
done4    8,a strange country this of    
,galicia10 said ,i1 and went to consult 
with  ,antonio4    ,it appeared that the
 information of the ostler was literally
 true with  regard to the horseshoe2 at 

least1 the blacksmith of the village1 to
 whom  we conducted the animal1         
confessed his inability to shoe him1    
having none  that would fit his hoof4   
,he said it was very probable that we   
should be  obliged to lead the animal to
 ,lugo1 which being a cavalry station1  
we  might perhaps find there what we    
wanted4  ,he added1 however1 that the   
greatest part of the cavalry soldiers   
were mounted on the ponies of the       
country1 the mortality amongst the      
horses brought from the level ground    
into ,galicia being frightful4  ,lugo   
was ten leagues distant3 there  seemed1 
however1 to be no remedy at hand but    
patience1 and1 having  refreshed        
ourselves1 we proceeded1 leading our    
horses by the bridle4    ,we were now on
 level ground1 being upon the very top  
of one of the  highest mountains in     
,galicia4  ,this level continued for    
about a league1  when we began to       
descend4  ,before we had crossed the    
plain1 which was  overgrown with furze  

and brushwood1 we came suddenly upon    
half a dozen  fellows1 armed with       
muskets1 and wearing a tattered uniform4
  ,we at first  supposed them to be     
banditti3 they were1 however1 only a    
party of  soldiers1 who had been        
detached from the station we had just   
quitted to  escort one of the provincial
 posts or couriers4  ,they were         
clamorous for  cigars1 but offered us no
 further incivility4  ,having no cigars 
to  bestow1 ,i gave them in lieu thereof
 a small piece of silver4  ,two of the  
worst looking were very eager to be     
permitted to escort us to ,nogales1  the
 village where we proposed to spend the 
night4  8,by no means permit  them1 mon 
matre10 said ,antonio4  8,they are two  
famous assassins of my  acquaintance2 ,i
 have known them at ,madrid4  ,in the   
first ravine they will  shoot and       
plunder us40  ,i therefore civilly      
declined their offer and  departed4     
8,you seem to be acquainted with all the
 cut-throats in  ,galicia10 said ,i to  

,antonio1 as we descended the hill4     
8,with respect to those two fellows10 he
 replied1 8,i knew them when ,i  lived  
as cook in the family of ,general ,q---1
 who is a ,gallegan3 they were  sworn   
friends of the repostero4  ,all the     
,gallegans in ,madrid know each  other1 
whether high or low makes no difference2
 there1 at least1 they are  all good    
friends1 and assist each other on all   
imaginable occasions2 and  if there be a
 ,gallegan domestic in a house1 the     
kitchen is sure to be  filled with his  
countrymen1 as the cook frequently knows
 to his cost1 for  they generally       
contrive to eat up any little           
perquisites which he may  have reserved 
for himself and family40    ,somewhat   
less than halfway down the mountain we  
reached a small village4  ,on observing 
a blacksmith's shop1 we stopped1 in the 
faint hope of  finding a shoe for the   
horse1 who1 for want of one1 was rapidly
 becoming  lame4  ,to our great joy we  
found that the smith was in possession  

of one  single horseshoe1 which some    
time previously he had found upon the   
way4  ,this1 after undergoing much      
hammering and alteration1 was pronounced
 by  the ,gallegan ,vulcan to be capable
 of serving in lieu of a better2        
whereupon we again mounted1 and slowly  
continued our descent4    ,shortly ere  
sunset we arrived at ,nogales1 a hamlet 
situate in a narrow  valley at the foot 
of the mountain1 in traversing which we 
had spent the  day4  ,nothing could be  
more picturesque than the appearance of 
this spot3  steep hills1 thickly clad   
with groves and forests of chestnuts1   
surrounded it on every side2 the village
 itself was almost embowered in  trees1 
and close beside it ran a purling brook4
  ,here we found a  tolerably large and 
commodious posada4    ,i was languid and
 fatigued1 but felt little desire to    
sleep4  ,antonio  cooked our supper1 or 
rather his own1 for ,i had no appetite4 
,i sat by  the door1 gazing at the      
wood-covered heights above me1 or on the

 waters  of the rivulet1 occasionally   
listening to the people who lounged     
about  the house1 conversing in the     
country dialect4  ,what a strange tongue
 is  the ,gallegan1 with its            
half-singing1 half-whining accent1 and  
with its  confused jumble of words from 
many languages1 but chiefly from the    
,spanish and ,portuguese6 #cea  8,can   
you understand this conversation80 ,i   
demanded of ,antonio1 who had by this   
time rejoined me4  8,i cannot1 mon      
matre10 he replied2 8,i have acquired at
 various times a great many  words      
amongst the ,gallegan domestics in the  
kitchens where ,i have  officiated as   
cook1 but am quite unable to understand 
any long  conversation4  ,i have heard  
the ,gallegans say that in no two       
villages is  it spoken in one and the   
same manner1 and that very frequently   
they do  not understand each other4     
,the worst of this language is1 that    
everybody  on first hearing it thinks   
that nothing is more easy than to       

understand  it1 as words are continually
 occurring which he has heard before2   
but  these merely serve to bewilder and 
puzzle him1 causing him to              
misunderstand everything that is said2  
whereas1 if he were totally  ignorant of
 the tongue1 he would occasionally give 
a shrewd guess at what  was meant1 as ,i
 myself frequently do when ,i hear      
,basque spoken1 though  the only word   
which ,i know of that language is       
jaunguicoa40    ,as the night closed in 
,i retired to bed1 where ,i remained    
four or five  hours1 restless and       
tossing about1 the fever of ,leon still 
clinging to my  system4  ,it was        
considerably past midnight when1 just as
 ,i was sinking  into a slumber1 ,i was 
aroused by a confused noise in the      
village1 and the  glare of lights       
through the lattice of the window of the
 room where ,i  lay2 presently entered  
,antonio1 half dressed4  8,mon matre10  
said he1  8the grand post from ,madrid  
to ,corunna has just arrived in the     

village1  attended by a considerable    
escort1 and an immense number of        
travellers4  ,the road1 they say1       
between here and ,lugo is infested with 
robbers and  ,carlists1 who are         
committing all kinds of atrocities2 let 
us1 therefore1  avail ourselves of the  
opportunity1 and by midday to-morrow we 
shall find  ourselves safe in ,lugo40   
,on hearing these words1 ,i instantly   
sprang out  of bed and dressed myself1  
telling ,antonio to prepare the horses  
with all  speed4    ,we were soon       
mounted and in the street1 amidst a     
confused throng of men  and quadrupeds4 
,the light of a couple of flambeaus1    
which were borne  before the courier1   
shone on the arms of several soldiers1  
seemingly  drawn up on either side of   
the road2 the darkness1 however1        
prevented me  from distinguishing       
objects very clearly4  ,the courier     
himself was  mounted on a little shaggy 
pony2 before and behind him were two    
immense  portmanteaus1 or leather sacks1

 the ends of which nearly touched the   
ground4  ,for about a quarter of an hour
 there was much hubbub1 shouting1  and  
trampling1 at the end of which period   
the order was given to proceed4         
,scarcely had we left the village when  
the flambeaus were extinguished1  and we
 were left in almost total darkness2 for
 some time we were amongst  woods and   
trees1 as was evident from the rustling 
of leaves on every  side4  ,my horse was
 very uneasy and neighed fearfully1     
occasionally  raising himself bolt      
upright4  8,if your horse is not more   
quiet1  cavalier1 we shall be obliged to
 shoot him10 said a voice in an         
,andalusian accent2 8he disturbs the    
whole cavalcade40  8,that would be a    
pity1 sergeant10 ,i replied1 8for he is 
a ,cordovese by the four sides2 he  is  
not used to the ways of this barbarous  
country40  8,oh1 he is a  ,cordovese10  
said the voice2 8vaya1 ,i did not know  
that2 ,i am from  ,cordova myself4      
,pobrecito6 let me pat him--yes1 ,i know

 by his coat that  he is my countryman4 
,shoot him1 indeed6 vaya1 ,i would fain 
see the  ,gallegan devil who would dare 
to harm him4  ,barbarous country1 yo lo 
creo3 #cec neither oil nor olives1 bread
 nor barley4  ,you have been at         
,cordova4  ,vaya2 oblige me1 cavalier1  
by taking this cigar40    ,in this      
manner we proceeded for several hours1  
up hill and down dale1 but  generally at
 a very slow pace4  ,the soldiers who   
escorted us from time to  time sang     
patriotic songs1 breathing love and     
attachment to the young  ,queen ,isabel1
 and detestation of the grim tyrant     
,carlos4  ,one of the  stanzas which    
reached my ears ran something in the    
following style3--        8,don ,carlos 
is a hoary churl1         ,of cruel     
heart and cold2      ,but ,isabel's a   
harmless girl1         ,of only six     
years old40    ,at last the day began to
 break1 and ,i found myself amidst a    
train of two  or three hundred people1  
some on foot1 but the greater part      

mounted1  either on mules or the pony   
mares3 ,i could not distinguish a single
 horse  except my own and ,antonio's4   
,a few soldiers were thinly scattered   
along  the road4  ,the country was      
hilly1 but less mountainous and         
picturesque  than the one which we had  
traversed the preceding day2 it was for 
the  most part partitioned into small   
fields1 which were planted with maize4  
,at the distance of every two or three  
leagues we changed our escort1 at  some 
village where was stationed a           
detachment4  ,the villages were mostly  
an assemblage of wretched cabins2 the   
roofs were thatched1 dank1 and  moist1  
and not unfrequently covered with rank  
vegetation4  ,there were  dung-hills    
before the doors1 and no lack of pools  
and puddles4  ,immense  swine were      
stalking about1 intermingled with naked 
children4  ,the  interior of the cabins 
corresponded with their external        
appearance3 they  were filled with filth
 and misery4    ,we reached ,lugo about 

two hours past noon4  ,during the last  
two or three  leagues ,i became so      
overpowered with weariness1 the result  
of want of  sleep and my late illness1  
that ,i was continually dozing in my    
saddle1 so  that ,i took but little     
notice of what was passing4  ,we put up 
at a large  posada without the wall of  
the town1 built upon a steep bank1 and  
commanding an extensive view of the     
country towards the east4  ,shortly     
after our arrival1 the rain began to    
descend in torrents1 and continued      
without intermission during the next two
 days1 which was1 however1 to me  but a 
slight source of regret1 as ,i passed   
the entire time in bed1 and ,i  may     
almost say in slumber4  ,on the evening 
of the third day ,i arose4    ,there was
 much bustle in the house1 caused by the
 arrival of a family  from ,corunna2    
they came in a large jaunting car1      
escorted by four  carabineers4  ,the    
family was rather numerous1 consisting  
of a father1  son1 and eleven daughters1

 the eldest of whom might be about      
eighteen4  ,a  shabby-looking fellow1   
dressed in a jerkin and wearing a       
high-crowned  hat1 attended as domestic4
  ,they arrived very wet and shivering1 
and all  seemed very disconsolate1      
especially the father1 who was a        
well-looking  middle-aged man4  8,can we
 be accommodated80 he demanded in a     
gentle voice  of the man of the house2  
8can we be accommodated in this fonda80 
8,certainly1 your worship10 replied the 
other2 8our house is large4  ,how  many 
apartments does your worship require for
 your family80    8,one will be         
sufficient10 replied the stranger4      
,the host1 who was a gouty personage and
 leaned upon a stick1 looked for a      
moment at the traveller1 then at every  
member of his family1 not  forgetting   
the domestic1 and1 without any farther  
comment than a slight  shrug1 led the   
way to the door of an apartment         
containing two or three  flock beds1 and
 which on my arrival ,i had objected to 

as being small1  dark1 and incommodious2
 this he flung open1 and demanded       
whether it would  serve4    8,it is     
rather small10 replied the gentleman2   
8,i think1 however1 that it  will do40  
8,i am glad of it10 replied the host4   
8,shall we make any preparations for    
the supper of your worship and family80 
8,no1 ,i thank you10 replied the        
stranger2 8my own domestic will prepare 
the slight refreshment we are in need   
of40    ,the key was delivered to the   
domestic1 and the whole family ensconced
  themselves in their apartment3 before1
 however1 this was effected1 the  escort
 were dismissed1 the principal          
carabineer being presented with a       
peseta4  ,the man stood surveying the   
gratuity for about half a minute1  as it
 glittered in the palm of his hand2 then
 with an abrupt ,vamos6 he  turned upon 
his heel1 and without a word of         
salutation to any person1  departed with
 the men under his command4    8,who can
 these strangers be80 said ,i to the    

host1 as we sat together in a  large    
corridor open on one side1 and which    
occupied the entire front of  the house4
    8,i know not10 he replied1 8but by  
their escort ,i suppose they are people 
holding some official situation4  ,they 
are not of this province1 however1  and 
,i more than suspect them to be         
,andalusians40    ,in a few minutes the 
door of the apartment occupied by the   
strangers was  opened1 and the domestic 
appeared1 bearing a cruise in his hand4 
8,pray1  ,seor ,patron10 demanded he1   
8where can ,i buy some oil80    8,there 
is oil in the house10 replied the host1 
8if you want to purchase  any2 but if1  
as is probable1 you suppose that we     
shall gain a cuarto by  selling it1 you 
will find some over the way4  ,it is as 
,i suspected10  continued the host1 when
 the man had departed on his errand2    
8they are  ,andalusians1 and are about  
to make what they call gazpacho1 on     
which  they will all sup4  ,oh1 the     
meanness of these ,andalusians6 they are

 come  here to suck the vitals of       
,galicia1 and yet envy the poor         
innkeeper the  gain of a cuarto in the  
oil which they require for their        
gazpacho4  ,i  tell you one thing1      
master1 when that fellow returns1 and   
demands bread  and garlic to mix with   
the oil1 ,i will tell him there is none 
in the  house3 as he has bought the oil 
abroad1 so he may the bread and garlic2 
ay1 and the water too1 for that matter40
          ,,chapter ,,xxvi4             
,lugo--,the ,baths--,a ,family          
,history--,miguelets--,the ,three       
,heads--,a  ,farrier--,english          
,squadron--,sale of                     
,testaments--,corunna--,the             
,recognition--,luigi  ,piozzi--,the     
,speculation--,a ,blank ,prospect--,john
 ,moore4    ,at ,lugo ,i found a wealthy
 bookseller1 to whom ,i brought a letter
 of  recommendation from ,madrid4  ,he  
willingly undertook the sale of my      
books4  ,the ,lord deigned to favour my 
feeble exertions in his cause at ,lugo4 

,i  brought thither thirty ,testaments1 
all of which were disposed of in one    
day2 the bishop of the place--for ,lugo 
is an episcopal see--purchasing two     
copies for himself1 whilst several      
priests and ex-friars1 instead of       
following the example of their brethren 
at ,leon1 by persecuting the work1      
spoke well of it and recommended its    
perusal4  ,i was much grieved that my   
stock of these holy books was exhausted1
 there being a great demand2 and  had ,i
 been able to supply them1 quadruple the
 quantity might have been  sold during  
the few days that ,i continued at ,lugo4
    ,lugo contains about six thousand   
inhabitants4  ,it is situated on lofty  
ground1 and is defended by ancient      
walls4  ,it possesses no very           
remarkable edifice1 and the cathedral   
church itself is a small mean  building4
  ,in the centre of the town is the     
principal square1 a light  cheerful     
place1 not surrounded by those heavy    
cumbrous buildings with  which the      

,spaniards both in ancient and modern   
times have encircled their  plazas4  ,it
 is singular enough that ,lugo1 at      
present a place of very  little         
importance1 should at one period have   
been the capital of ,spain2  #cei yet   
such it was in the time of the ,romans1 
who1 as they were a  people not much    
guided by caprice1 had doubtless very   
excellent reasons  for the preference   
which they gave to the locality4        
,there are many ,roman remains in the   
vicinity of this place1 the most        
remarkable of which are the ruins of the
 ancient medicinal baths1 which  stand  
on the southern side of the river       
,minho1 which creeps through the  valley
 beneath the town4  ,the ,minho in this 
place is a dark and sullen  stream1 with
 high1 precipitous1 and thickly wooded  
banks4    ,one evening ,i visited the   
baths1 accompanied by my friend the     
bookseller4  ,they had been built over  
warm springs which flow into the river4 
,notwithstanding their ruinous          

condition1 they were crowded with sick1 
hoping to derive benefit from the       
waters1 which are still famed for their 
sanative power4  ,these patients        
exhibited a strange spectacle as1       
wrapped  in flannel gowns much          
resembling shrouds1 they lay immersed in
 the tepid  waters amongst disjointed   
stones1 and overhung with steam and     
reek4    ,three or four days after my   
arrival ,i was seated in the corridor1  
which1  as ,i have already observed1    
occupied the entire front of the house4 
,the  sky was unclouded1 and the sun    
shone most gloriously1 enlivening every 
object around4  ,presently the door of  
the apartment in which the  strangers   
were lodged opened1 and forth walked the
 whole family1 with the  exception of   
the father1 who1 ,i presumed1 was absent
 on business4  ,the  shabby domestic    
brought up the rear1 and on leaving the 
apartment1  carefully locked the door1  
and secured the key in his pocket4  ,the
 one  son and the eleven daughters were 

all dressed remarkably well3 the boy    
something after the ,english fashion1 in
 jacket and trousers1 the young  ladies 
in spotless white4  ,they were1 upon the
 whole1 a very good-looking  family1    
with dark eyes and olive complexions1   
but the eldest daughter was  remarkably 
handsome4  ,they arranged themselves    
upon the benches of the  corridor1 the  
shabby domestic sitting down amongst    
them without any  ceremony whatever4    
,they continued for some time in        
silence1 gazing with  disconsolate looks
 upon the houses of the suburb and the  
dark walls of  the town1 until the      
eldest daughter1 or seorita as she was  
called1  broke silence with an #8,ay    
,dios mio6' #cfj    ,domestic4--,ay     
,dios mio6 we have found our way to a   
pretty country4    ,myself4--,i really  
can see nothing so very bad in the      
country1 which is  by nature the richest
 in all ,spain1 and the most abundant4  
,true it is  that the generality of the 
inhabitants are wretchedly poor1 but    

they  themselves are to blame1 and not  
the country4    ,domestic4--,cavalier1  
the country is a horrible one1 say      
nothing to the  contrary4  ,we are all  
frightened1 the young ladies1 the young 
gentleman1  and myself2 even his worship
 is frightened1 and says that we are    
come to  this country for our sins4  ,it
 rains every day1 and this is almost the
  first time that we have seen the sun  
since our arrival4  ,it rains           
continually1 and one cannot step out    
without being up to the ankles in       
fango2 and then1 again1 there is not a  
house to be found4    ,myself4--,i      
scarcely understand you4  ,there appears
 to be no lack of  houses in this       
neighbourhood4    ,domestic4--,excuse   
me1 sir4  ,his worship hired yesterday a
 house1 for  which he engaged to pay    
fourteen-pence daily2 but when the      
seorita saw  it1 she wept1 and said it  
was no house1 but a hog-stye1 so his    
worship  paid one day's rent and        
renounced his bargain4  ,fourteen-pence 

a day6  why1 in our country1 we can have
 a palace for that money4               
,myself4--,from what country do you     
come8    ,domestic4--,cavalier1 you     
appear to be a decent gentleman1 and ,i 
will  tell you our history4  ,we are    
from ,andalusia1 and his worship was    
last  year receiver-general for         
,granada3 his salary was fourteen       
thousand  reals1 with which we contrived
 to live very commodiously--attending   
the  bull funcions regularly1 or if     
there were no bulls1 we went to see the 
novillos1 #cfa and now and then to the  
opera4  ,in a word1 sir1 we had  our    
diversions and felt at our ease2 so much
 so that his worship was  actually      
thinking of purchasing a pony for the   
young gentleman1 who is  fourteen1 and  
must learn to ride now or never4        
,cavalier1 the ministry  was changed1   
and the new-comers1 who were no friends 
to his worship1  deprived him of his    
situation4  ,cavalier1 they removed us  
from that  blessed country of ,granada1 

where our salary was fourteen thousand  
reals1 and sent us to ,galicia1 to this 
fatal town of ,lugo1 where his  worship 
is compelled to serve for ten thousand1 
which is quite  insufficient to maintain
 us in our former comforts4  ,good-bye1 
,i trow1 to  bull funcions1 and         
novillos1 and the opera4  ,good-bye to  
the hope of  a horse for the young      
gentleman4  ,cavalier1 ,i grow          
desperate3 hold your  tongue1 for ,god's
 sake6 for ,i can talk no more4    ,on  
hearing this history ,i no longer       
wondered that the receiver-general  was 
eager to save a cuarto in the purchase  
of the oil for the  gazpacho of himself 
and family of eleven daughters1 one son1
 and a  domestic4    ,we staid one week 
at ,lugo1 and then directed our steps to
 ,corunna1 about  twelve leagues        
distant4  ,we arose before daybreak in  
order to avail  ourselves of the escort 
of the general post1 in whose company we
  travelled upwards of six leagues4     
,there was much talk of robbers1 and    

flying parties of the factious1 on which
 account our escort was  considerable4  
,at the distance of five or six leagues 
from ,lugo1 our  guard1 in lieu of      
regular soldiers1 consisted of a body of
 about fifty  ,miguelets4  ,they had all
 the appearance of banditti1 but a finer
 body of  ferocious fellows ,i never    
saw4  ,they were all men in the prime of
 life1  mostly of tall stature1 and of  
,herculean brawn and limbs4  ,they wore 
huge  whiskers1 and walked with a       
fanfaronading air1 as if they courted   
danger1  and despised it4  ,in every    
respect they stood in contrast to the   
soldiers  who had hitherto escorted us1 
who were mere feeble boys from sixteen  
to  eighteen years of age1 and possessed
 of neither energy nor activity4  ,the  
proper dress of the ,miguelet1 if it    
resembles anything military1 is         
something akin to that anciently used by
 the ,english marines4  ,they wear  a   
peculiar kind of hat1 and generally     
leggings1 or gaiters1 and their  arms   

are the gun and bayonet4  ,the colour of
 their dress is mostly dark  brown4     
,they observe little or no discipline1  
whether on a march or in  the field of  
action4  ,they are excellent irregular  
troops1 and when on  actual service are 
particularly useful as skirmishers4     
,their proper  duty1 however1 is to     
officiate as a species of police1 and to
 clear the  roads of robbers1 for which 
duty they are in one respect admirably  
calculated1 having been generally       
robbers themselves at one period of     
their lives4  ,why these people are     
called ,miguelets #cfc it is not easy   
to say1 but it is probable that they    
have derived this appellation from  the 
name of their original leader4  ,i      
regret that the paucity of my own       
information will not allow me to enter  
into farther particulars with  respect  
to this corps1 concerning which ,i have 
little doubt that many  remarkable      
things might be said4    ,becoming weary
 of the slow travelling of the post1 ,i 

determined to brave  all risk1 and to   
push forward4  ,in this1 however1 ,i was
 guilty of no  slight imprudence1 as by 
so doing ,i was near falling into the   
hands of  robbers4  ,two fellows        
suddenly confronted me with presented   
carbines1  which they probably intended 
to discharge into my body1 but they took
  fright at the noise of ,antonio's     
horse1 who was following a little way   
behind4  ,this affair occurred at the   
bridge of ,castellanos1 a spot          
notorious for robbery and murder1 and   
well adapted for both1 for it  stands at
 the bottom of a deep dell surrounded by
 wild desolate hills4  ,only a quarter  
of an hour previous1 ,i had passed three
 ghastly heads  stuck on poles standing 
by the way-side2 they were those of a   
captain of  banditti and two of his     
accomplices1 who had been seized and    
executed  about two months before4      
,their principal haunt was the vicinity 
of the  bridge1 and it was their        
practice to cast the bodies of the      

murdered into  the deep black water     
which runs rapidly beneath4  ,those     
three heads will  always live in my     
remembrance1 particularly that of the   
captain1 which  stood on a higher pole  
than the other two3 the long hair was   
waving in  the wind1 and the blackened1 
distorted features were grinning in the 
sun4  ,the fellows whom ,i met were the 
relics of the band4    ,we arrived at   
,betanzos late in the afternoon4  ,this 
town stands on a  creek at some distance
 from the sea1 and about three leagues  
from  ,corunna4  ,it is surrounded on   
three sides by lofty hills4  ,the       
weather  during the greater part of the 
day had been dull and lowering1 and we  
found the atmosphere of ,betanzos       
insupportably close and heavy4  ,sour   
and  disagreeable odours assailed our   
olfactory organs from all sides4  ,the  
streets were filthy--so were the houses1
 and especially the posada4  ,we        
entered the stable2 it was strewed with 
rotten seaweeds and other  rubbish1 in  

which pigs were wallowing2 huge and     
loathsome flies were  buzzing around4   
8,what a pest-house60 ,i exclaimed4     
,but we could find no  other stable1 and
 were therefore obliged to tether the   
unhappy animals to  the filthy mangers4 
,the only provender that could be       
obtained was ,indian  corn4  ,at        
nightfall ,i led them to drink at a     
small river which passes  through       
,betanzos4  ,my entero swallowed the    
water greedily2 but as we  returned     
towards the inn1 ,i observed that he was
 sad1 and that his head  drooped4  ,he  
had scarcely reached the stall1 when a  
deep hoarse cough  assailed him4  ,i    
remembered the words of the ostler in   
the mountains4  8,the man must be mad   
who brings a horse to ,galicia1 and     
doubly so he who  brings an entero40    
,during the greater part of the day the 
animal had  been much heated1 walking   
amidst a throng of at least a hundred   
pony  mares4  ,he now began to shiver   
violently4  ,i procured a quart of anise

  #cfe brandy1 with which1 assisted by  
,antonio1 ,i rubbed his body for  nearly
 an hour1 till his coat was covered with
 a white foam2 but his  cough increased 
perceptibly1 his eyes were becoming     
fixed1 and his  members rigid4  8,there 
is no remedy but bleeding10 said ,i4    
8,run for a  farrier40  ,the farrier    
came4  8,you must bleed the horse10 ,i  
shouted2  8take from him an azumbre of  
blood40  ,the farrier looked at the     
animal1  and made for the door4  8,where
 are you going80 ,i demanded4  8,home10 
he  replied4  8,but we want you here40  
8,i know you do10 was his answer2 8and  
on that account ,i am going40  8,but you
 must bleed the horse1 or he will  die40
  8,i know he will10 said the farrier1  
8but ,i will not bleed him40  8,why80 ,i
 demanded4  8,i will not bleed him but  
under one condition40  8,what is that80 
8,what is it6--that you pay me an ounce 
of gold40 #cff;a  8,run upstairs for the
 red morocco case10 said ,i to ,antonio4
  ,the case was  brought2 ,i took out a 

large fleam1 and with the assistance of 
a stone1  drove it into the principal   
artery of the horse's leg4  ,the blood  
at  first refused to flow2 at last1 with
 much rubbing1 it began to trickle1  and
 then to stream2 it continued so for    
half an hour4  8,the horse is  fainting1
 mon matre10 said ,antonio4  8,hold him 
up10 said ,i1 8and in  another ten      
minutes we will stop the vein40    ,i   
closed the vein1 and whilst doing so ,i 
looked up into the farrier's  face1     
arching my eyebrows4    8,carracho6     
#cff;b what an evil wizard60 #cff;c     
muttered the farrier as  he walked away4
  8,if ,i had my knife here ,i would    
stick him40  ,we bled the  horse again  
during the night1 which second bleeding 
,i believe saved him4  ,towards morning 
he began to eat his food4    ,the next  
day we departed for ,corunna1 leading   
our horses by the bridle4  ,the day was 
magnificent1 and our walk delightful4   
,we passed along  beneath tall          
umbrageous trees1 which skirted the road

 from ,betanzos to  within a short      
distance of ,corunna4  ,nothing could be
 more smiling and  cheerful than the    
appearance of the country around4       
,vines were growing  in abundance in the
 vicinity of the villages through which 
we passed1  whilst millions of maize    
plants upreared their tall stalks and   
displayed  their broad green leaves in  
the fields4  ,after walking about three 
hours1  we obtained a view of the ,bay  
of ,corunna1 in which1 even at the      
distance  of a league1 we could         
distinguish three or four immense ships 
riding at  anchor4  8,can these vessels 
belong to ,spain80 ,i demanded of       
myself4  ,in  the very next village1    
however1 we were informed that the      
preceding  evening an ,english squadron 
had arrived1 for what reason nobody     
could  say4  8,however10 continued our  
informant1 8they have doubtless some    
design upon ,galicia4  ,these foreigners
 are the ruin of ,spain40    ,we put up 
in what is called the ,calle ,real1 in  

an excellent fonda1 or  posada1 kept by 
a short1 thick1 comical-looking person1 
a ,genoese by  birth4  ,he was married  
to a tall1 ugly1 but good-tempered      
,basque woman1  by whom he had been     
blessed with a son and daughter4  ,his  
wife1 however1  had it seems of late    
summoned all her female relations from  
,guipuzcoa1  who now filled the house to
 the number of nine1 officiating as     
chambermaids1 cooks1 and scullions3 they
 were all very ugly1 but good  natured1 
and of immense volubility of tongue4    
,throughout the whole day  the house    
resounded with their excellent ,basque  
and very bad ,castilian4  ,the ,genoese1
 on the contrary1 spoke little1 for     
which he might have  assigned a good    
reason3 he had lived thirty years in    
,spain1 and had  forgotten his own      
language without acquiring ,spanish1    
which he spoke very  imperfectly4    ,we
 found ,corunna full of bustle and life1
 owing to the arrival of the  ,english  
squadron4  ,on the following day1       

however1 it departed1 being  bound for  
the ,mediterranean on a short cruise1   
whereupon matters  instantly returned to
 their usual course4    ,i had a dept of
 five hundred ,testaments at ,corunna1  
from which it was my  intention to      
supply the principal towns of ,galicia4 
,immediately on my  arrival ,i published
 advertisements1 according to my usual  
practice1 and  the book obtained a      
tolerable sale--seven or eight copies   
per day on the  average4  ,some people1 
perhaps1 on perusing these details1 will
 be  tempted to exclaim1 8,these are    
small matters1 and scarcely worthy of   
being mentioned40  ,but let such bethink
 them that till within a few  months    
previous to the time of which ,i am     
speaking1 the very existence of  the    
,gospel was almost unknown in ,spain1   
that it must necessarily be a  difficult
 task to induce a people like the       
,spaniards1 who read very  little1 to   
purchase a work like the ,new           
,testament1 which1 though of  paramount 

importance to the soul1 affords but     
slight prospect of  amusement to the    
frivolous and carnally-minded4  ,i hoped
 that the present  was the dawning of   
better and more enlightened times1 and  
rejoiced in the  idea that ,testaments1 
though few in number1 were being sold in
  unfortunate benighted ,spain1 from    
,madrid to the furthermost parts of     
,galicia1 a distance of nearly four     
hundred miles4    ,corunna stands on a  
peninsula1 having on one side the sea1  
and on the  other the celebrated bay1   
generally called the ,groyne4 #cfh  ,it 
is  divided into the old and new town1  
the latter of which was at one time     
probably a mere suburb4  ,the old town  
is a desolate ruinous place1  separated 
from the new by a wide moat4  ,the      
modern town is a much more  agreeable   
spot1 and contains one magnificent      
street1 the ,calle ,real1  where the    
principal merchants reside4  ,one       
singular feature of this  street is1    
that it is laid entirely with flags of  

marble1 along which  troop ponies and   
cars as if it were a common pavement4   
,it is a saying amongst the inhabitants 
of ,corunna1 that in their town  there  
is a street so clean that puchera #cfi;a
 may be eaten off it  without the       
slightest inconvenience4  ,this may     
certainly be the fact  after one of     
those rains which so frequently drench  
,galicia1 when the  appearance of the   
pavement of the street is particularly  
brilliant4  ,corunna was at one time a  
place of considerable commerce1 the     
greater  part of which has lately       
departed to ,santander1 a town which    
stands a  considerable distance down the
 ,bay of ,biscay4    8,are you going to 
,st4 ,james1 #cfi;b ,giorgio8  ,if so1  
you will perhaps  convey a message to my
 poor countryman10 said a voice to me   
one morning  in broken ,english1 as ,i  
was standing at the door of my posada1  
in the  royal street of ,corunna4    ,i 
looked round and perceived a man        
standing near me at the door of a shop  

contiguous to the inn4  ,he appeared to 
be about sixty-five1 with a pale  face  
and remarkably red nose4  ,he was       
dressed in a loose green  great-coat1 in
 his mouth was a long clay pipe1 in his 
hand a long painted  stick4    8,who are
 you1 and who is your countryman80 ,i   
demanded4  8,i do not know  you40    8,i
 know you1 however10 replied the man2   
8you purchased the first knife  that ,i 
ever sold in the market-place of ,n---40
 #cgj;a    ,myself4--,ah1 ,i remember   
you now1 ,luigi ,piozzi #cgj;b2 and well
 do ,i  remember also how1 when a boy1  
twenty years ago1 ,i used to repair to  
your  stall1 and listen to you and your 
countrymen discoursing in ,milanese4    
,luigi4--,ah1 those were happy times to 
me4  ,oh1 how they rushed back on  my   
remembrance when ,i saw you ride up to  
the door of the posada6  ,i  instantly  
went in1 closed my shop1 lay down upon  
my bed and wept4    ,myself4--,i see no 
reason why you should so much regret    
those times4  ,i  knew you formerly in  

,england as an itinerant pedlar1 and    
occasionally as  master of a stall in   
the market-place of a country town4  ,i 
now find you  in a seaport of ,spain1   
the proprietor1 seemingly1 of a         
considerable shop4  ,i cannot see why   
you should regret the difference4       
,luigi 7dashing his pipe on the         
ground74--,regret the difference6  ,do  
you  know one thing8  ,england is the   
heaven of the ,piedmontese and          
,milanese1  and especially those of     
,como4  ,we never lie down to rest but  
we dream of  it1 whether we are in our  
own country or in a foreign land1 as ,i 
am now4  ,regret the difference1        
,giorgio6  ,do ,i hear such words from  
your lips1  and you an ,englishman8  ,i 
would rather be the poorest tramper on  
the  roads of ,england1 than lord of all
 within ten leagues of the shore of the 
lake of ,como1 and much the same say all
 my countrymen who have visited         
,england1 wherever they now be4  ,regret
 the difference6  ,i have ten  letters  

from as many countrymen in ,america1 who
 say they are rich and  thriving1 and   
principal men and merchants2 but every  
night1 when their  heads are reposing on
 their pillows1 their souls auslandra1  
hurrying  away to ,england1 and its     
green lanes and farmyards4  ,and there  
they are  with their boxes on the       
ground1 displaying their looking-glasses
 and  other goods to the hones1 rustics 
and their dames and their daughters1    
and selling away and chaffering and     
laughing just as of old4  ,and there    
they are again at nightfall in the hedge
 alehouses1 eating their toasted  cheese
 and their bread1 and drinking the      
,suffolk ale1 and listening to  the     
roaring song and merry jests of the     
labourers4  ,now1 if they regret        
,england so who are in ,america1 which  
they own to be a happy country1 and     
good for those of ,piedmont and of      
,como1 how much more must ,i regret it1 
when1 after the lapse of so many years1 
,i find myself in ,spain1 in this       

frightful town of ,corunna1 driving a   
ruinous trade1 and where months pass  by
 without my seeing a single ,english    
face1 or hearing a word of the  blessed 
,english tongue6    ,myself4--,with such
 a predilection for ,england1 what could
 have induced  you to leave it and come 
to ,spain8    ,luigi4--,i will tell you4
  ,about sixteen years ago a universal  
desire  seized our people in ,england to
 become something more than they had    
hitherto been1 pedlars and trampers2    
they wished1 moreover--for mankind  are 
never satisfied--to see other countries3
 so the greater part forsook  ,england4 
,where formerly there had been ten1 at  
present scarcely lingers  one4  ,almost 
all went to ,america1 which1 as ,i told 
you before1 is a happy  country1 and    
specially good for us men of ,como4     
,well1 all my comrades  and relations   
passed over the sea to the ,west4  ,i   
too was bent on  travelling1 but        
whither8  ,instead of going towards the 
,west with the  rest1 to a country where

 they have all thriven1 ,i must needs   
come by  myself to this land of ,spain2 
a country in which no foreigner settles 
without dying of a broken heart sooner  
or later4  ,i had an idea in my  head   
that ,i could make a fortune at once1 by
 bringing a cargo of common  ,english   
goods1 like those which ,i had been in  
the habit of selling  amongst the       
villagers of ,england4  ,so ,i freighted
 half a ship with such  goods1 for ,i   
had been successful in ,england in my   
little speculations1  and ,i arrived at 
,corunna4  ,here at once my vexations   
began3  disappointment followed         
disappointment4  ,it was with the utmost
  difficulty that ,i could obtain       
permission to land my goods1 and this   
only  at a considerable sacrifice in    
bribes and the like2 and when ,i had    
established myself here1 ,i found that  
the place was one of no trade1 and  that
 my goods went off very slowly1 and     
scarcely at prime cost4  ,i wished  to  
remove to another place1 but was        

informed that1 in that case1 ,i must    
leave my goods behind1 unless ,i offered
 fresh bribes1 which would have  ruined 
me2 and in this way ,i have gone on for 
fourteen years1 selling  scarcely enough
 to pay for my shop and to support      
myself4  ,and so ,i shall  doubtless    
continue till ,i die1 or my goods are   
exhausted4  ,in an evil day  ,i left    
,england and came to ,spain4            
,myself4--,did you not say that you had 
a countryman at ,st4 ,james8            
,luigi4--,yes1 a poor honest fellow who1
 like myself1 by some strange  chance   
found his way to ,galicia4  ,i sometimes
 contrive to send him a few  goods1     
which he sells at ,st4 ,james at a      
greater profit than ,i can here4  ,he is
 a happy fellow1 for he has never been  
in ,england1 and knows not the          
difference between the two countries4   
,oh1 the green ,english hedgerows6  and 
the alehouses6 and1 what is much more1  
the fair dealing and security4  ,i have 
travelled all over ,england and never   

met with ill usage1 except  once down in
 the north amongst the ,papists1 upon my
 telling them to leave  all their       
mummeries and go to the parish church as
 ,i did1 and as all my  countrymen in   
,england did2 for know one thing1       
,signor ,giorgio1 not one  of us who    
have lived in ,england1 whether         
,piedmontese or men of ,como1 but       
wished well to the ,protestant religion1
 if he had not actually become a  member
 of it4    ,myself4--,what do you       
propose to do at present1 ,luigi8  ,what
 are your  prospects8    ,luigi4--,my   
prospects are a blank1 ,giorgio2 my     
prospects are a blank4  ,i propose      
nothing but to die in ,corunna1 perhaps 
in the hospital1 if they  will admit me4
  ,years ago ,i thought of fleeing1 even
 if ,i left all behind  me1 and either  
returning to ,england1 or betaking      
myself to ,america2 but  it is too late 
now1 ,giorgio1 it is too late4  ,when ,i
 first lost all  hope ,i took to        
drinking1 to which ,i was never before  

inclined1 and ,i am  now what ,i suppose
 you see4    8,there is hope in the     
,gospel10 said ,i1 8even for you4  ,i   
will send you  one40    ,there is a     
small battery of the old town which     
fronts the east1 and whose  wall is     
washed by the waters of the bay4  ,it is
 a sweet spot1 and the  prospect which  
opens from it is extensive4  ,the       
battery itself may be  about eighty     
yards square2 some young trees are      
springing up about it1  and it is rather
 a favourite resort of the people of    
,corunna4    ,in the centre of this     
battery stands the tomb of ,moore1 built
 by the  chivalrous ,french1 in         
commemoration of the fall of their      
heroic  antagonist4  ,it is oblong1 and 
surmounted by a slab1 and on either side
  bears one of the simple and sublime   
epitaphs for which our rivals are       
celebrated1 and which stand in such     
powerful contrast with the bloated  and 
bombastic inscriptions which deform the 
walls of ,westminster ,abbey3--         

8,,john ,,moore1                        
,,leader ,,of ,,the ,,english ,,armies1 
,,slain ,,in ,,battle1                  
#ahji40    ,the tomb itself is of       
marble1 and around it is a quadrangular 
wall1  breast-high1 of rough ,gallegan  
granite2 close to each corner rises from
  the earth the breech of an immense    
brass cannon1 intended to keep the  wall
 compact and close4  ,these outer       
erections are1 however1 not the work  of
 the ,french1 but of the ,english       
government4    ,yes1 there lies the     
hero1 almost within sight of the        
glorious hill where  he turned upon his 
pursuers like a lion at bay and         
terminated his career4  ,many acquire   
immortality without seeking it1 and die 
before its first ray  has gilded their  
name2 of these was ,moore4  ,the        
harassed general1 flying  through       
,castile with his dispirited troops     
before a fierce and terrible  enemy1    
little dreamed that he was on the point 
of attaining that for  which many a     

better1 greater1 though certainly not   
braver man1 had sighed  in vain4  ,his  
very misfortunes were the means which   
secured him immortal  fame2 his         
disastrous route1 bloody death1 and     
finally his tomb on a  foreign strand1  
far from kin and friends4  ,there is    
scarcely a ,spaniard  but has heard of  
this tomb1 and speaks of it with a      
strange kind of awe4  ,immense treasures
 are said to have been buried with the  
heretic general1  though for what       
purpose no one pretends to guess4  ,the 
demons of the  clouds1 if we may trust  
the ,gallegans1 followed the ,english in
 their  flight1 and assailed them with  
water-spouts as they toiled up the steep
  winding paths of ,fuencebadon1 whilst 
legends the most wild are related of    
the manner in which the stout soldier   
fell4  ,yes1 even in ,spain1            
immortality has already crowned the head
 of ,moore2--,spain1 the land of        
oblivion1 where the ,guadalete1 the     
ancient ,lethe1 #cge flows4             

,,chapter ,,xxvii4                      
,compostella--,rey ,romero--,the        
,treasure-seeker--,hopeful              
,project--,the ,church of               
,refuge--,hidden ,riches--,the          
,canon--,spirit of ,localism--,the      
,leper--,bones of  ,saint ,james4    ,at
 the commencement of ,august ,i found   
myself at ,saint ,james of              
,compostella4  ,to this place ,i        
travelled from ,corunna with the courier
 or  weekly post1 who was escorted by a 
strong party of soldiers1 in            
consequence of the distracted state of  
the country1 which was overrun  with    
banditti4  ,from ,corunna to ,saint     
,james the distance is but ten  leagues2
 the journey1 however1 endured for a day
 and a half4  ,it was a  pleasant one1  
through a most beautiful country1 with a
 rich variety of  hill and dale2 the    
road was in many places shaded with     
various kinds of  trees clad in most    
luxuriant foliage4  ,hundreds of        
travellers1 both on  foot and on        

horseback1 availed themselves of the    
security which the  escort afforded3 the
 dread of banditti was strong4  ,during 
the journey  two or three alarms were   
given2 we1 however1 reached ,saint      
,james without  having been attacked4   
,saint ,james stands on a pleasant level
 amidst mountains3 the most             
extraordinary of these is a conical     
hill1 called the ,pico ,sacro1 or       
,sacred ,peak1 connected with which are 
many wonderful legends4  ,a  beautiful  
old town is ,saint ,james1 containing   
about twenty thousand  inhabitants4     
,time has been when1 with the single    
exception of ,rome1 it  was the most    
celebrated resort of pilgrims in the    
world2 its cathedral  being said to     
contain the bones of ,saint ,james the  
elder1 the child of  the thunder1 #cgh  
who1 according to the legend of the     
,romish church1  first preached the     
,gospel in ,spain4  ,its glory1 however1
 as a place of  pilgrimage1 is rapidly  
passing away4    ,the cathedral1 though 

a work of various periods1 and          
exhibiting various  styles of           
architecture1 is a majestic venerable   
pile1 in every respect  calculated to   
excite awe and admiration2 indeed1 it is
 almost impossible  to walk its long    
dusk aisles1 and hear the solemn music  
and the noble  chanting1 and inhale the 
incense of the mighty censers1 which are
 at  times swung so high by machinery as
 to smite the vaulted roof1 whilst      
gigantic tapers glitter here and there  
amongst the gloom1 from the shrine  of  
many a saint1 before which the          
worshippers are kneeling1 breathing     
forth their prayers and petitions for   
help1 love1 and mercy1 and  entertain a 
doubt that we are treading the floor of 
a house where ,god  delighteth to dwell4
  ,yet the ,lord is distant from that   
house2 ,he hears  not1 ,he sees not1 or 
if ,he do1 it is with anger4  ,what     
availeth that  solemn music1 that noble 
chanting1 that incense of sweet savour8 
,what  availeth kneeling before that    

grand altar of silver1 surmounted by    
that  figure with its silver hat and    
breast-plate1 the emblem of one who1    
though an apostle and confessor1 was at 
best an unprofitable servant8  ,what    
availeth hoping for remission of sin by 
trusting in the merits of  one who      
possessed none1 or by paying homage to  
others who were born and  nurtured in   
sin1 and who alone1 by the exercise of a
 lively faith granted  from above1 could
 hope to preserve themselves from the   
wrath of the  ,almighty8    ,rise from  
your knees1 ye children of ,compostella1
 or1 if ye bend1 let it  be to the      
,almighty alone1 and no longer on the   
eve of your patron's day  address him in
 the following strain1 however sublime  
it may sound3--        8,thou shield of 
that faith which in ,spain we revere1   
,thou scourge of each foeman who dares  
to draw near2      ,whom the ,son of    
that ,god who the elements tames1       
,called child of the thunder1 immortal  
,saint ,james6        8,from the blessed

 asylum of glory intense1      ,upon us 
thy sovereign influence dispense2       
,and list to the praises our gratitude  
aims      ,to offer up worthily1 mighty 
,saint ,james6        8,to thee fervent 
thanks ,spain shall ever outpour2       
,in thy name though she glory1 she      
glories yet more      ,in thy thrice    
hallowed corse1 which the sanctuary     
claims      ,of high ,compostella1 ,o   
blessed ,saint ,james6        8,when    
heathen impiety1 loathsome and dread1   
,with a chaos of darkness our ,spain    
overspread1      ,thou wast the first   
light which dispelled with its flames   
,the hell-born obscurity1 glorious      
,saint ,james6        8,and when        
terrible wars had nigh wasted our force1
      ,all bright 'midst the battle we  
saw thee on horse1      ,fierce         
scattering the hosts1 whom their fury   
proclaims      ,to be warriors of       
,islam1 victorious ,saint ,james6       
8,beneath thy direction1 stretched prone
 at thy feet1      ,with hearts low and 

humble1 this day we entreat      ,thou  
wilt strengthen the hope which enlivens 
our frames1      ,the hope of thy favour
 and presence1 ,saint ,james4           
8,then praise to the ,son and the       
,father above1      ,and to that ,holy  
,spirit which springs from their love2  
,to that bright emanation whose         
vividness shames      ,the sun's burst  
of splendour1 and praise to ,saint      
,james40    ,at ,saint ,james ,i met    
with a kind and cordial coadjutor in my 
biblical  labours in the bookseller of  
the place1 ,rey ,romero1 a man of about 
sixty4  ,this excellent individual1 who 
was both wealthy and respected1 took up 
the matter with an enthusiasm which     
doubtless emanated from on high1  losing
 no opportunity of recommending my book 
to those who entered his  shop1 which   
was in the ,azabacheria1 #chj and was a 
very splendid and  commodious           
establishment4  ,in many instances1 when
 the peasants of the  neighbourhood came
 with an intention of purchasing some of

 the foolish  popular story-books of    
,spain1 he persuaded them to carry home 
,testaments  instead1 assuring them that
 the sacred volume was a better1 more   
instructive1 and even far more          
entertaining book than those they came  
in  quest of4  ,he speedily conceived a 
great fancy for me1 and regularly came  
to visit me every evening at my posada1 
and accompanied me in my walks  about   
the town and the environs4  ,he was a   
man of considerable  information1 and   
though of much simplicity1 possessed a  
kind of  good-natured humour which was  
frequently highly diverting4    ,i was  
walking late one night alone in the     
alameda of ,saint ,james1  considering  
in what direction ,i should next bend my
 course1 for ,i had  been already ten   
days in this place2 the moon was shining
 gloriously1 and  illumined every object
 around to a considerable distance4     
,the alameda  was quite deserted2       
everybody1 with the exception of myself1
 having for  some time retired4  ,i sat 

down on a bench and continued my        
reflections1  which were suddenly       
interrupted by a heavy stumping sound4  
,turning my  eyes in the direction from 
which it proceeded1 ,i perceived what at
 first  appeared a shapeless bulk slowly
 advancing3 nearer and nearer it drew1  
and ,i could now distinguish the outline
 of a man dressed in coarse brown       
garments1 a kind of ,andalusian hat1 and
 using as a staff the long peeled       
branch of a tree4  ,he had now arrived  
opposite the bench where ,i was  seated1
 when1 stopping1 he took off his hat and
 demanded charity in  uncouth tones and 
in a strange jargon1 which had some     
resemblance to the  ,catalan4  ,the moon
 shone on grey locks and on a ruddy     
weather-beaten  countenance which ,i at 
once recognized4  8,benedict ,mol10 said
 ,i1 8is it  possible that ,i see you at
 ,compostella80    8,och1 mein ,gott1 es
 ist der ,herr60 #chb;a replied         
,benedict4  8,och1 what good fortune1   
that the ,herr is the first person ,i   

meet at  ,compostella60    ,myself4--,i 
can scarcely believe my eyes4  ,do you  
mean to say that you  have just arrived 
at this place8    ,benedict4--,ow yes1  
,i am this moment arrived4  ,i have     
walked all the long  way from ,madrid4  
,myself4--,what motive could possibly   
bring you such a distance8              
,benedict4--,ow1 ,i am come for the     
,schatz--the treasure4  ,i told you at  
,madrid that ,i was coming2 and now ,i  
have met you here1 ,i have no doubt     
that ,i shall find it1 the ,schatz4     
,myself4--,in what manner did you       
support yourself by the way8            
,benedict4--,ow1 ,i begged1 ,i bettled1 
#chb;b and so contrived to pick up  some
 cuartos2 and when ,i reached ,toro1 ,i 
worked at my trade of  soap-making for a
 time1 till the people said ,i knew     
nothing about it1 and  drove me out of  
the town4  ,so ,i went on and begged and
 bettled till ,i  arrived at ,orense1   
which is in this country of ,galicia4   
,ow1 ,i do not  like this country of    

,galicia at all4    ,myself4--,why not8 
,benedict4--,why6 because here they all 
beg and bettle1 and have scarce         
anything for themselves1 much less for  
me1 whom they know to be a foreign  man4
  ,oh1 the misery of ,galicia6  ,when ,i
 arrive at night at one of their        
pigsties1 which they call posadas1 and  
ask for bread to eat in the name  of    
,god1 and straw to lie down in1 they    
curse me1 and say there is neither      
bread nor straw in ,galicia3 and sure   
enough1 since ,i have been here ,i  have
 seen neither1 only something that they 
call broa1 and a kind of  reedy rubbish 
with which they litter the horses3 all  
my bones are sore  since ,i entered     
,galicia4    ,myself4--,and yet you have
 come to this country1 which you call so
  miserable1 in search of treasure8     
,benedict4--,ow yaw1 but the ,schatz is 
buried2 it is not above ground2  there  
is no money above ground in ,galicia4   
,i must dig it up2 and when ,i  have dug
 it up ,i will purchase a coach with six

 mules1 and ride out of  ,galicia to    
,lucerne2 and if the ,herr pleases to go
 with me1 he shall be  welcome to go    
with me and the ,schatz4    ,myself4--,i
 am afraid that you have come on a      
desperate errand4  ,what do  you propose
 to do8  ,have you any money8           
,benedict4--,not a cuarto2 but ,i do not
 care now ,i have arrived at ,st4       
,james4  ,the ,schatz is nigh2 and ,i   
have1 moreover1 seen you1 which is a    
good sign2 it tells me that the ,schatz 
is still here4  ,i shall go to  the best
 posada in the place1 and live like a   
duke till ,i have an  opportunity of    
digging up the ,schatz1 when ,i will pay
 all scores4    8,do nothing of the     
kind10 ,i replied2 8find out some place 
in which to  sleep1 and endeavour to    
seek some employment4  ,in the mean     
time1 here is  a trifle with which to   
support yourself2 but as for the        
treasure which  you have come to seek1  
,i believe it only exists in your own   
imagination40  ,i gave him a dollar and 

departed4    ,i have never enjoyed more 
charming walks than in the neighbourhood
 of  ,saint ,james4  ,in these ,i was   
almost invariably accompanied by my     
friend  the good old bookseller4  ,the  
streams are numerous1 and along their   
wooded banks we were in the habit of    
straying and enjoying the delicious     
summer evenings of this part of ,spain4 
,religion generally formed the  topic of
 our conversation1 but we not           
unfrequently talked of the foreign      
lands which ,i had visited1 and at other
 times of matters which related         
particularly to my companion4  8,we     
booksellers of ,spain10 said he1 8are   
all liberals2 we are no friends to the  
monkish system4  ,how indeed should  we 
be friends to it8  ,it fosters darkness1
 whilst we live by  disseminating light4
  ,we love our profession1 and have all 
more or less  suffered for it2 many of  
us1 in the times of terror1 were hanged 
for  selling an innocent translation    
from the ,french or ,english4  ,shortly 

after the ,constitution was put down by 
,angoulme and the ,french bayonets1     
#chd ,i was obliged to flee from ,saint 
,james and take refuge in the  wildest  
part of ,galicia1 near ,corcuvion4  ,had
 ,i not possessed good  friends1 ,i     
should not have been alive now2 as it   
was1 it cost me a  considerable sum of  
money to arrange matters4  ,whilst ,i   
was away1 my shop  was in charge of the 
ecclesiastical officers4  ,they         
frequently told my  wife that ,i ought  
to be burnt for the books which ,i had  
sold4  ,thanks be  to ,god1 those times 
are past1 and ,i hope they will never   
return40    ,once1 as we were walking   
through the streets of ,saint ,james1 he
 stopped  before a church and looked at 
it attentively4  ,as there was nothing  
remarkable in the appearance of this    
edifice1 ,i asked him what motive he    
had for taking such notice of it4  8,in 
the days of the friars10 said he1  8this
 church was one of refuge1 to which if  
the worst criminals escaped1  they were 

safe4  ,all were protected there save   
the negros1 as they  called us          
liberals40  8,even murderers1 ,i        
suppose80 said ,i4  8,murderers60  he   
answered1 8far worse criminals than     
they4  ,by-the-by1 ,i have heard  that  
you ,english entertain the utmost       
abhorrence of murder4  ,do you in       
reality consider it a crime of very     
great magnitude80  8,how should we      
not80 ,i replied4  8,for every other    
crime some reparation can be made2 but  
if we take away life1 we take away all4 
,a ray of hope with respect to  this    
world may occasionally enliven the bosom
 of any other criminal1 but  how can the
 murderer hope80  8,the friars were of  
another way of  thinking10 replied the  
old man2 8they always looked upon murder
 as a  friolera2 but not so the crime of
 marrying your first cousin without     
dispensation1 for which1 if we believe  
them1 there is scarcely any  atonement  
either in this world or the next40      
,two or three days after this1 as we    

were seated in my apartment in the      
posada1 engaged in conversation1 the    
door was opened by ,antonio1 who1  with 
a smile on his countenance1 said that   
there was a foreign gentleman  below who
 desired to speak with me4  8,show him  
up10 ,i replied2 whereupon  almost      
instantly appeared ,benedict ,mol4      
8,this is a most extraordinary person10 
said ,i to the bookseller4  8,you       
,galicians1 in general1 leave your      
country in quest of money2 he1 on the   
contrary1 is come hither to find some40 
,rey ,romero4--,and he is right4        
,galicia is by nature the richest       
province  in ,spain1 but the inhabitants
 are very stupid1 and know not how to   
turn  the blessings which surround them 
to any account2 but as a proof of what  
may be made out of ,galicia1 see how    
rich the ,catalans become who have      
settled down here and formed            
establishments4  ,there are riches all  
around  us1 upon the earth and in the   
earth4    ,benedict4--,ow yaw1 in the   

earth1 that is what ,i say4  ,there is  
much  more treasure below the earth than
 above it4    ,myself4--,since ,i last  
saw you1 have you discovered the place  
in which  you say the treasure is       
deposited8    ,benedict4--,oh yes1 ,i   
know all about it now4  ,it is buried   
'neath the  sacristy in the church of   
,san ,roque4    ,myself4--,how have you 
been able to make that discovery8       
,benedict4--,i will tell you4  ,the day 
after my arrival ,i walked about all    
the city in quest of the church1 but    
could find none which at all  answered  
to the signs which my comrade who died  
in the hospital gave me4  ,i entered    
several1 and looked about1 but all in   
vain2 ,i could not find  the place which
 ,i had in my mind's eye4  ,at last the 
people with whom ,i  lodge1 and to whom 
,i told my business1 advised me to send 
for a meiga4    ,myself4--,a meiga6 #chf
  ,what is that8    ,benedict4--,ow6 a  
,haxweib1 a witch2 the ,gallegos call   
them so in their  jargon1 of which ,i   

can scarcely understand a word4  ,so ,i 
consented1 and  they sent for the meiga4
  ,och6 what a ,weib is that meiga6  ,i 
never  saw such a woman2 she is as large
 as myself1 and has a face as round and 
red as the sun4  ,she asked me a great  
many questions in her ,gallegan2 and    
when ,i had told her all she wanted to  
know1 she pulled out a pack of  cards   
and laid them on the table in a         
particular manner1 and then she  said   
that the treasure was in the church of  
,san ,roque2 and sure enough1  when ,i  
went to that church1 it answered in     
every respect to the signs of  my       
comrade who died in the hospital4  ,oh1 
she is a powerful ,hax1 that  meiga2 she
 is well known in the neighbourhood1 and
 has done much harm  to the cattle4  ,i 
gave her half the dollar ,i had from you
 for her  trouble4    ,myself4--,then   
you acted like a simpleton2 she has     
grossly deceived you4  ,but even suppose
 that the treasure is really deposited  
in the church you  mention1 it is not   

probable that you will be permitted to  
remove the  floor of the sacristy to    
search for it4    ,benedict4--,ow1 the  
matter is already well advanced4        
,yesterday ,i went to  one of the canons
 to confess myself and to receive       
absolution and  benediction2 not that ,i
 regard these things much1 but ,i       
thought this  would be the best means of
 broaching the matter1 so ,i confessed  
myself1  and then ,i spoke of my travels
 to the canon1 and at last ,i told him  
of  the treasure1 and proposed that if  
he assisted me we should share it       
between us4  ,ow1 ,i wish you had seen  
him2 he entered at once into the        
affair1 and said that it might turn out 
a very profitable speculation3  and he  
shook me by the hand1 and said that ,i  
was an honest ,swiss and a  good        
,catholic4  ,and ,i then proposed that  
he should take me into his house  and   
keep me there till we had an opportunity
 of digging up the treasure  together4  
,this he refused to do4    ,rey         

,romero4--,of that ,i have no doubt3    
trust one of our canons for not         
committing himself so far until he sees 
very good reason4  ,these tales of      
treasure are at present rather too      
stale3 we have heard of them ever  since
 the time of the ,moors4                
,benedict4--,he advised me to go to the 
,captain-,general and obtain  permission
 to make excavations1 in which case he  
promised to assist me to  the utmost of 
his power4    ,thereupon the ,swiss     
departed1 and ,i neither saw nor heard  
anything  further of him during the time
 that ,i continued at ,saint ,james4    
,the bookseller was never weary of      
showing me about his native town1 of    
which he was enthusiastically fond4     
,indeed1 ,i have never seen the spirit  
of localism1 which is so prevalent      
throughout ,spain1 more strong than at  
,saint ,james4  ,if their town did but  
flourish1 the ,santiagans seemed to     
care but little if all others in        
,galicia perished4  ,their antipathy to 

the town of ,corunna was unbounded1 and 
this feeling had of late been not  a    
little increased from the circumstance  
that the seat of the provincial         
government had been removed from ,saint 
,james to ,corunna4  ,whether this      
change was advisable or not1 it is not  
for me1 who am a foreigner1 to  say2 my 
private opinion1 however1 is by no means
 favourable to the  alteration4  ,saint 
,james is one of the most central towns 
in ,galicia1  with large and populous   
communities on every side of it1 whereas
 ,corunna  stands in a corner1 at a     
considerable distance from the rest4    
8,it is a  pity that the vecinos of     
,corunna cannot contrive to steal away  
from us  our cathedral1 even as they    
have done our government10 said a       
,santiagan2  8then1 indeed1 they would  
be able to cut some figure4  ,as it is1 
they  have not a church fit to say mass 
in40  8,a great pity1 too1 that they    
cannot remove our hospital10 would      
another exclaim2 8as it is1 they are    

obliged to send us their sick poor      
wretches4  ,i always think that the     
sick of ,corunna have more ill-favoured 
countenances than those from other      
places2 but what good can come from     
,corunna80    ,accompanied by the       
bookseller1 ,i visited this hospital1 in
 which1  however1 ,i did not remain     
long1 the wretchedness and uncleanliness
 which  ,i observed speedily driving me 
away4  ,saint ,james1 indeed1 is the    
grand  lazar-house for all the rest of  
,galicia1 which accounts for the        
prodigious number of horrible objects to
 be seen in its streets1 who have  for  
the most part arrived in the hope of    
procuring medical assistance1  which1   
from what ,i could learn1 is very       
scantily and inefficiently              
administered4  ,amongst these unhappy   
wretches ,i occasionally observed the   
terrible leper1 and instantly fled from 
him with a 8,god help thee10 as if  ,i  
had been a ,jew of old4  ,galicia is the
 only province of ,spain where  cases of

 leprosy are still frequent2 a          
convincing proof this that the  disease 
is the result of foul feeding1 and an   
inattention to cleanliness1  as the     
,gallegans1 with regard to the comforts 
of life and civilized  habits1 are      
confessedly far behind all the other    
natives of ,spain4    8,besides a       
general hospital1 we have likewise a    
leper-house10 said the  bookseller4     
8,shall ,i show it you8  ,we have       
everything at ,saint ,james4  ,there is 
nothing lacking2 the very leper finds an
 inn here40  8,i have no  objection to  
your showing me the house10 ,i replied1 
8but it must be at a  distance1 for     
enter it ,i will not40  ,thereupon he   
conducted me down the  road which leads 
towards ,padron #chi and ,vigo1 and     
pointing to two or  three huts1         
exclaimed1 8,that is our leper-house40  
8,it appears a  miserable place10 ,i    
replied4  8,what accommodation may there
 be for the  patients1 and who attends  
to their wants80  8,they are left to    

themselves10 answered the bookseller1   
8and probably sometimes perish from     
neglect3 the place at one time was      
endowed1 and had rents1 which were      
appropriated to its support1 but even   
these have been sequestered during  the 
late troubles4  ,at present1 the least  
unclean of the lepers generally  takes  
his station by the road-side1 and begs  
for the rest4  ,see1 there he  is now40 
,and sure enough the leper1 in his      
shining scales1 and half naked1 was     
seated beneath a ruined wall4  ,we      
dropped money into the hat of the       
unhappy being1 and passed on4    8,a bad
 disorder that10 said my friend4  8,i   
confess that ,i1 who have seen  so many 
of them1 am by no means fond of the     
company of lepers4  ,indeed1 ,i  wish   
that they would never enter my shop1 as 
they occasionally do to beg4  ,nothing  
is more infectious1 as ,i have heard1   
than leprosy4  ,there is one  very      
virulent species1 however1 which is     
particularly dreaded here--the          

elephantine3 those who die of it should1
 according to law1 be burnt1 and  their 
ashes scattered to the winds1 for if the
 body of such a leper be  interred in   
the field of the dead1 the disorder is  
forthwith communicated  to all the      
corses even below the earth4  ,such at  
least is our idea in  these parts4      
,law-suits are at present pending from  
the circumstance of  elephantides having
 been buried with the other dead4  ,sad 
is leprosy in  all its forms1 but most  
so when elephantine40    8,talking of   
corses10 said ,i1 8do you believe that  
the bones of ,saint  ,james are         
veritably interred at ,compostella80    
8,what can ,i say80 replied the old man2
 8you know as much of the matter as     
myself4  ,beneath the high altar is a   
large stone slab or lid1 which is  said 
to cover the mouth of a profound well1  
at the bottom of which it is  believed  
that the bones of the saint are         
interred2 though why they should  be    
placed at the bottom of a well is a     

mystery which ,i cannot fathom4  ,one of
 the officers of the church told me that
 at one time he and another  kept watch 
in the church during the night1 one of  
the chapels having  shortly before been 
broken open and a sacrilege committed4  
,at the dead  of night1 finding the time
 hang heavy on their hands1 they took a 
crowbar  and removed the slab1 and      
looked down into the abyss below2 it was
 dark  as the grave2 whereupon they     
affixed a weight to the end of a long   
rope1  and lowered it down4  ,at a very 
great depth it seemed to strike against 
something dull and solid1 like lead3    
they supposed it might be a coffin2     
perhaps it was1 but whose8 is the       
question40          ,,chapter ,,xxviii4 
,skippers of ,padron--,caldas de los    
,reyes--,pontevedra--,the ,notary       
,public--,insane ,barber--,an           
,introduction--,gallegan                
,language--,afternoon                   
,ride--,vigo--,the ,stranger--,jews of  
the ,desert--,bay of ,vigo--,sudden     

,interruption--,the ,governor4    ,after
 a stay of about a fortnight at ,saint  
,james1 we again mounted our  horses and
 proceeded in the direction of ,vigo4   
,as we did not leave ,saint  ,james till
 late in the afternoon1 we travelled    
that day no farther than  ,padron1 a    
distance of only three leagues4  ,this  
place is a small port1  situate at the  
extremity of a firth which communicates 
with the sea4  ,it  is called1 for      
brevity's sake1 ,padron1 but its proper 
appellation is  ,villa del ,padron1 or  
the town of the patron saint2 it having 
been1  according to the legend1 the     
principal residence of ,saint ,james    
during  his stay in ,galicia4  ,by the  
,romans it was termed ,iria ,flavia4    
,it is a  flourishing little town1 and  
carries on rather an extensive commerce1
  some of its tiny barks occasionally   
finding their way across the ,bay of    
,biscay1 and even so far as the ,thames 
and ,london4    ,there is a curious     
anecdote connected with the skippers of 

,padron1 which  can scarcely be         
considered as out of place here1 as it  
relates to the  circulation of the      
,scriptures4  ,i was one day in the shop
 of my friend  the bookseller at ,saint 
,james1 when a stout                    
good-humoured-looking priest  entered4  
,he took up one of my ,testaments1 and  
forthwith burst into a  violent fit of  
laughter4  8,what is the matter80       
demanded the bookseller4  8,the sight of
 this book reminds me of a              
circumstance10 replied the other4       
8,about twenty years ago1 when the      
,english first took it into their heads 
to be very zealous in converting us     
,spaniards to their own way of          
thinking1 they distributed a great      
number of books of this kind amongst    
the ,spaniards who chanced to be in     
,london2 some of them fell into the     
hands of certain skippers of ,padron1   
and these good folk1 on their return  to
 ,galicia1 were observed to have become 
on a sudden exceedingly  opinionated and

 fond of dispute4  ,it was scarcely     
possible to make an  assertion in their 
hearing without receiving a flat        
contradiction1  especially when         
religious subjects were brought on the  
carpet4 #cic  #8,it  is false1' they    
would say2 #8,saint ,paul1 in such a    
chapter and in such a  verse1 says      
exactly the contrary4'  #8,what can you 
know concerning what  ,saint ,paul or   
any other saint has written8' the       
priests would ask them4  #8,much more   
than you think1' they replied2 #8we are 
no longer to be kept in  darkness and   
ignorance respecting these matters3' and
 then they would  produce their books   
and read paragraphs1 making such        
comments that every  person was         
scandalized2 they cared nothing about   
the ,pope1 and even spoke  with         
irreverence of the bones of ,saint      
,james4  ,however1 the matter was  soon 
bruited about1 and a commission was     
despatched from our see to  collect the 
books and burn them4  ,this was         

effected1 and the skippers  were either 
punished or reprimanded1 since which ,i 
have heard nothing  more of them4  ,i   
could not forbear laughing when ,i saw  
these books2 they  instantly brought to 
my mind the skippers of ,padron and     
their religious  disputations40    ,our 
next day's journey brought us to        
,pontevedra4  ,as there was no talk of  
robbers in these parts1 we travelled    
without any escort and alone4  ,the     
road was beautiful and picturesque1     
though somewhat solitary1 especially    
after we had left behind us the small   
town of ,caldas4  ,there is more than   
one place of this name in ,spain3 the   
one of which ,i am speaking is          
distinguished from the rest by being    
called ,caldas de los ,reyes1 #cid or   
the warm baths of the kings4  ,it will  
not be amiss to observe that the        
,spanish ,caldas is synonymous with the 
,moorish ,alhama1 a word of  frequent   
occurrence both in ,spanish and ,african
 topography4  ,caldas  seemed by no     

means undeserving of its name4  ,it     
stands on a confluence of  springs1 and 
the place when we arrived was crowded   
with people who had  come to enjoy the  
benefit of the waters4  ,in the course  
of my travels ,i  have observed that    
wherever warm springs are found1        
vestiges of volcanoes  are sure to be   
nigh2 the smooth black precipice1 the   
divided mountain1 or  huge rocks        
standing by themselves on the plain or  
on the hillside1 as if  ,titans had been
 playing at bowls4  ,this last feature  
occurs near ,caldas  de los ,reyes1 the 
side of the mountain which overhangs it 
in the  direction of the south being    
covered with immense granite stones1    
apparently at some ancient period       
eructed from the bowels of the earth4   
,from ,caldas to ,pontevedra the route  
was hilly and fatiguing1 the heat was   
intense1 and those clouds of flies1     
which constitute one of the pests of    
,galicia1 annoyed our horses to such a  
degree that we were obliged to cut  down

 branches from the trees to protect     
their heads and necks from the          
tormenting stings of these bloodthirsty 
insects4  ,whilst travelling in         
,galicia at this period of the year on  
horseback1 it is always advisable  to   
carry a fine net for the protection of  
the animal1 a sure and  commodious means
 of defence1 which appears1 however1 to 
be utterly  unknown in ,galicia1 where1 
perhaps1 it is more wanted than in any  
other  part of the world4               
,pontevedra1 upon the whole1 is         
certainly entitled to the appellation of
 a  magnificent town1 some of its public
 edifices1 especially the convents1     
being such as are nowhere to be found   
but in ,spain and ,italy4  ,it is       
surrounded by a wall of hewn stone1 and 
stands at the end of a creek into  which
 the river ,levroz disembogues4  ,it is 
said to have been founded by a  colony  
of ,greeks1 whose captain was no less a 
personage than ,teucer the  ,telamonian4
  ,it was in former times a place of    

considerable commerce2 and  near its    
port are to be seen the ruins of a      
farol1 or lighthouse1 said  to be of    
great antiquity4  ,the port1 however1 is
 at a considerable  distance from the   
town1 and is shallow and incommodious4  
,the whole  country in the neighbourhood
 of ,pontevedra is inconceivably        
delicious1  abounding with fruits of    
every description1 especially grapes1   
which in  the proper season are seen    
hanging from the parras #cie in luscious
  luxuriance4  ,an old ,andalusian      
author has said that it produces as many
  orange and citron trees as the        
neighbourhood of ,cordova4  ,its oranges
  are1 however1 by no means good1 and   
cannot compete with those of            
,andalusia4  ,the ,pontevedrans boast   
that their land produces two crops      
every year1 and that whilst they are    
gathering in one they may be seen       
ploughing and sowing another4  ,they may
 well be proud of their country1  which 
is certainly a highly favoured spot4    

,the town itself is in a state of great 
decay1 and1 notwithstanding the         
magnificence of its public edifices1 we 
found more than the usual amount  of    
,galician filth and misery4  ,the posada
 was one of the most wretched           
description1 and to mend the matter1 the
 hostess was a most intolerable  scold  
and shrew4  ,antonio having found fault 
with the quality of some  provision     
which she produced1 she cursed him most 
immoderately in the  country language1  
which was the only one she spoke1 and   
threatened1 if he  attempted to breed   
any disturbance in her house1 to turn   
the horses1  himself1 and his master    
forthwith out of doors4  ,socrates      
himself1  however1 could not have       
conducted himself on this occasion with 
greater  forbearance than ,antonio1 who 
shrugged his shoulders1 muttered        
something  in ,greek1 and then was      
silent4    8,where does the notary      
public live80 ,i demanded4  ,now the    
notary public  vended books1 and to this

 personage ,i was recommended by my     
friend at  ,saint ,james4  ,a boy       
conducted me to the house of ,seor      
,garcia1 for such  was his name4  ,i    
found him a brisk1 active1 talkative    
little man of  forty4  ,he undertook    
with great alacrity the sale of my      
,testaments1 and  in a twinkling sold   
two to a client who was waiting in the  
office1 and  appeared to be from the    
country4  ,he was an enthusiastic       
patriot1 but of  course in a local      
sense1 for he cared for no other country
 than  ,pontevedra4    8,those fellows  
of ,vigo10 said he1 8say their town is a
 better one than  ours1 and that it is  
more deserving to be the capital of this
 part of  ,galicia4  ,did you ever hear 
such folly8  ,i tell you what1 friend1  
,i  should not care if ,vigo were burnt1
 and all the fools and rascals within   
it4  ,would you ever think of comparing 
,vigo with ,pontevedra80    8,i don't   
know10 ,i replied2 8,i have never been  
at ,vigo1 but ,i have heard  say that   

the bay of ,vigo is the finest in the   
world40    8,bay6 my good sir2 bay4     
,yes1 the rascals have a bay1 and it is 
that bay  of theirs which has robbed us 
of all our commerce4  ,but what needs   
the  capital of a district with a bay8  
,it is public edifices that it wants1   
where the provincial deputies can meet  
to transact their business2 now1  so far
 from there being a commodious public   
edifice1 there is not a  decent house in
 all ,vigo4  ,bay6 yes1 they have a bay1
 but have they water  fit to drink8     
,have they a fountain8  ,yes1 they have1
 and the water is so  brackish that it  
would burst the stomach of a horse4  ,i 
hope1 my dear  sir1 that you have not   
come all this distance to take the part 
of such a  gang of pirates as those of  
,vigo80    8,i am not come to take their
 part10 ,i replied2 8indeed1 ,i was not 
aware  that they wanted my assistance in
 this dispute4  ,i am merely carrying to
  them the ,new ,testament1 of which    
they evidently stand in much need1 if   

they are such knaves and scoundrels as  
you represent them40    8,represent     
them1 my dear sir6  ,does not the matter
 speak for itself8  ,do  they not say   
that their town is better than ours1    
more fit to be the  capital of a        
district8 que disparate6 que            
briboneria60 #cig    8,is there a       
bookseller's shop at ,vigo80 ,i         
inquired4    8,there was one10 he       
replied1 8kept by an insane barber4  ,i 
am glad1 for  your sake1 that it is     
broken up1 and the fellow vanished4  ,he
 would have  played you one of two      
tricks2 he would either have cut your   
throat with  his razor1 under pretence  
of shaving you1 or have taken your books
 and  never have accounted to you for   
the proceeds4  ,bay6  ,i never could see
  what right such an owl's nest as ,vigo
 has to a bay60    ,no person could     
exhibit greater kindness to another than
 did the notary  public to myself1 as   
soon as ,i had convinced him that ,i had
 no intention  of siding with the men of

 ,vigo against ,pontevedra4  ,it was now
 six  o'clock in the evening1 and he    
forthwith conducted me to a             
confectioner's  shop1 where he treated  
me with an iced cream and a small cup of
  chocolate4  ,from hence we walked     
about the city1 the notary showing the  
various edifices1 especially the        
,convent of the ,jesuits4  8,see that   
front10 said he2 8what do you think of  
it80    ,i expressed to him the         
admiration which ,i really felt1 and by 
so doing  entirely won the good notary's
 heart4  8,i suppose there is nothing   
like  that at ,vigo80 said ,i4  ,he     
looked at me for a moment1 winked1 gave 
a  short triumphant chuckle1 and then   
proceeded on his way1 walking at a      
tremendous rate4  ,the ,seor ,garcia was
 dressed in all respects as an  ,english
 notary might be2 he wore a white hat1  
brown frock coat1 drab  breeches        
buttoned at the knees1 white stockings1 
and well blacked shoes4  ,but ,i never  
saw an ,english notary walk so fast3 it 

could scarcely be  called walking2 it   
seemed more like a succession of        
galvanic leaps and  bounds4  ,i found it
 impossible to keep up with him4        
8,where are you  conducting me80 ,i at  
last demanded1 quite breathless4    8,to
 the house of the cleverest man in      
,spain10 he replied1 8to whom ,i  intend
 to introduce you2 for you must not     
think that ,pontevedra has  nothing to  
boast of but its splendid edifices and  
its beautiful country2  it produces more
 illustrious minds than any other town  
in ,spain4  ,did you  ever hear of the  
grand ,tamerlane80    8,oh yes10 said   
,i2 8but he did not come from           
,pontevedra or its  neighbourhood3 he   
came from the steppes of ,tartary1 near 
the river ,oxus40    8,i know he did10  
replied the notary1 8but what ,i mean to
 say is1 that  when ,enrique the ,third 
wanted an ambassador to send to that    
,african1 the  only man he could find   
suited to the enterprise was a knight of
  ,pontevedra1 ,don --- by name4 #cii   

,let the men of ,vigo contradict that   
fact if they can40    ,we entered a     
large portal and ascended a splendid    
staircase1 at the top  of which the     
notary knocked at a small door4  8,who  
is the gentleman to  whom you are about 
to introduce me80 demanded ,i4    8,it  
is the ,advocate ---10 replied ,garcia2 
8he is the cleverest man in  ,spain1 and
 understands all languages and          
sciences40    ,we were admitted by a    
respectable-looking female1 to all      
appearance a  housekeeper1 who1 on being
 questioned1 informed us that the       
,advocate was  at home1 and forthwith   
conducted us to an immense room1 or     
rather  library1 the walls being covered
 with books1 except in two or three     
places where hung some fine pictures of 
the ancient ,spanish school4  ,there was
 a rich mellow light in the apartment1  
streaming through a  window of stained  
glass1 which looked to the west4        
,behind the table sat  the ,advocate1 on
 whom ,i looked with no little interest4

  ,his forehead was  high and wrinkled1 
and there was much gravity on his       
features1 which were  quite ,spanish4   
,he was dressed in a long robe1 and     
might be about sixty4  ,he sat reading  
behind a large table1 and on our        
entrance half raised  himself1 and bowed
 slightly4    ,the notary public saluted
 him most profoundly1 and1 in an        
under-voice1  hoped that he might be    
permitted to introduce a friend of his1 
an ,english  gentleman1 who was         
travelling through ,galicia4    8,i am  
very glad to see him10 said the         
,advocate1 8but ,i hope he speaks       
,castilian1 else we can have but little 
communication2 for1 although ,i can     
read both ,french and ,latin1 ,i cannot 
speak them40    8,he speaks1 sir1 almost
 as good ,spanish10 said the notary1 8as
 a native  of ,pontevedra40    8,the    
natives of ,pontevedra10 ,i replied1    
8appear to be better versed in          
,gallegan than in ,castilian1 for the   
greater part of the conversation  which 

,i hear in the streets is carried on in 
the former dialect40    8,the last      
gentleman whom my friend ,garcia        
introduced to me10 said the  ,advocate1 
8was a ,portuguese1 who spoke little or 
no ,spanish4  ,it is said  that the     
,gallegan and ,portuguese are very      
similar1 but when we attempted  to      
converse in the two languages1 we found 
it impossible4  ,i understood  little of
 what he said1 whilst my ,gallegan was  
quite unintelligible to  him4  ,can you 
understand our country dialect80 he     
continued4    8,very little of it10 ,i  
replied2 8which ,i believe chiefly      
proceeds from  the peculiar accent and  
uncouth enunciation of the ,gallegans1  
for their  language is certainly almost 
entirely composed of ,spanish and       
,portuguese  words40    8,so you are an 
,englishman10 said the ,advocate4       
8,your countrymen have  committed much  
damage in times past in these regions1  
if we may trust our  histories40        
8,yes10 said ,i1 8they sank your        

galleons1 and burnt your finest         
men-of-war  in ,vigo ,bay1 and1 under   
old ,cobham1 #dja;a levied a            
contribution of forty  thousand pounds  
sterling on this very town of           
,pontevedra40    8,any foreign power10  
interrupted the notary public1 8has a   
clear right to  attack ,vigo1 but ,i    
cannot conceive what plea your          
countrymen could urge  for distressing  
,pontevedra1 which is a respectable     
town1 and could never  have offended    
them40    8,seor ,cavalier10 said the   
,advocate1 8,i will show you my library4
  ,here  is a curious work1 a collection
 of poems1 written mostly in ,gallegan1 
by  the curate of ,fruime4 #dja;b  ,he  
is our national poet1 and we are very   
proud of him40    ,we stopped upwards of
 an hour with the ,advocate1 whose      
conversation1 if  it did not convince me
 that he was the cleverest man in       
,spain1 was1 upon  the whole1 highly    
interesting1 and who certainly possessed
 an extensive  store of general         

information1 though he was by no means  
the profound  philologist which the     
notary had represented him to be4       
,when ,i was about to depart from       
,pontevedra in the afternoon of the next
  day1 the ,seor ,garcia stood by the   
side of my horse1 and1 having  embraced 
me1 thrust a small pamphlet into my     
hand4  8,this book10 said he1  8contains
 a description of ,pontevedra4          
,wherever you go1 speak well of         
,pontevedra40  ,i nodded4  8,stay10 said
 he1 8my dear friend1 ,i have heard  of 
your society1 and will do my best to    
further its views4  ,i am quite         
disinterested1 but if at any future time
 you should have an opportunity  of     
speaking in print of ,seor ,garcia1 the 
notary public of  ,pontevedra--you      
understand me--,i wish you would do so40
    8,i will10 said ,i4    ,it was a    
pleasant afternoon's ride from          
,pontevedra to ,vigo1 the distance      
being only four leagues4  ,as we        
approached the latter town1 the country 

became exceedingly mountainous1 though  
scarcely anything could exceed the      
beauty of the surrounding scenery4  ,the
 sides of the hills were for the  most  
part clothed with luxuriant forests1    
even to the very summits1  though       
occasionally a flinty and naked peak    
would present itself1 rising  to the    
clouds4  ,as the evening came on the    
route along which we advanced  became   
very gloomy1 the hills and forests      
enwrapping it in deep shade4  ,it       
appeared1 however1 to be well           
frequented3 numerous cars were creaking 
along it1 and both horsemen and         
pedestrians were continually passing us4
  ,the villages were frequent4  ,vines1 
supported on parras1 were growing1  if  
possible1 in still greater abundance    
than in the neighbourhood of            
,pontevedra4  ,life and activity seemed 
to pervade everything4  ,the hum of     
insects1 the cheerful bark of dogs1 the 
rude songs of ,galicia1 were  blended   
together in pleasant symphony4  ,so     

delicious was my ride that ,i  almost   
regretted when we entered the gate of   
,vigo4    ,the town occupies the lower  
part of a lofty hill1 which1 as it      
ascends1  becomes extremely steep and   
precipitous1 and the top of which is    
crowned  with a strong fort or castle4  
,it is a small compact place1 surrounded
  with low walls2 the streets are       
narrow1 steep1 and winding1 and in the  
middle of the town is a small square4   
,there is rather an extensive faubourg  
extending along the shore of the  bay4  
,we found an excellent posada1 kept by a
 man and woman from the  ,basque        
provinces1 who were both civil and      
intelligent4  ,the town seemed  to be   
crowded1 and resounded with noise and   
merriment4  ,the people were  making a  
wretched attempt at an illumination1 in 
consequence of some  victory lately     
gained1 or pretended to have been       
gained1 over the forces  of the         
,pretender4  ,military uniforms were    
glancing about in every  direction4  ,to

 increase the bustle1 a troop of        
,portuguese players had  lately arrived 
from ,oporto1 and their first           
representation was to take  place this  
evening4  8,is the play to be performed 
in ,spanish80 ,i  demanded4  8,no10 was 
the reply2 8and on that account every   
person is so  eager to go1 which would  
not be the case if it were in a language
 which  they could understand40    ,on  
the morning of the next day ,i was      
seated at breakfast in a large          
apartment which looked out upon the     
,plaza ,mayor1 or great square of the   
good town of ,vigo4  ,the sun was       
shining very brilliantly1 and all around
  looked lively and gay4  ,presently a  
stranger entered1 and1 bowing           
profoundly1 stationed himself at the    
window1 where he remained a             
considerable time in silence4  ,he was a
 man of very remarkable  appearance1 of 
about thirty-five4  ,his features were  
of perfect symmetry1  and ,i may almost 
say of perfect beauty4  ,his hair was   

the darkest ,i had  ever seen1 glossy   
and shining2 his eyes large1 black1 and 
melancholy2 but  that which most struck 
me was his complexion4  ,it might be    
called olive1  it is true1 but it was a 
livid olive4  ,he was dressed in the    
very first  style of ,french fashion4   
,around his neck was a massive gold     
chain1 while  upon his fingers were     
large rings1 in one of which was set a  
magnificent  ruby4  ,who can that man   
be8 thought ,i--,spaniard or            
,portuguese2 perhaps a  ,creole4  ,i    
asked him an indifferent question in    
,spanish1 to which he  forthwith replied
 in that language1 but his accent       
convinced me that he  was neither       
,spaniard nor ,portuguese4    8,i       
presume ,i am speaking to an            
,englishman1 sir10 said he1 in as good  
,english as it was possible for one not 
an ,englishman to speak4                
,myself4--,you know me to be an         
,englishman2 but ,i should find some    
difficulty in guessing to what country  

you belong4    ,stranger4--,may ,i take 
a seat8    ,myself4--,a singular        
question4  ,have you not as much right  
to sit in the  public apartment of an   
inn as myself8    ,stranger4--,i am not 
certain of that4  ,the people here are  
not in general  very gratified at seeing
 me seated by their side4               
,myself4--,perhaps owing to your        
political opinions1 or to some crime    
which it may have been your misfortune  
to commit4    ,stranger4--,i have no    
political opinions1 and ,i am not aware 
that ,i ever  committed any particular  
crime4  ,i am hated for my country and  
my  religion4    ,myself4--,perhaps ,i  
am speaking to a ,protestant1 like      
myself8    ,stranger4--,i am no         
,protestant4  ,if ,i were1 they would be
 cautious here  of showing their        
dislike1 for ,i should then have a      
government and a  consul to protect me4 
,i am a ,jew--a ,barbary ,jew1 a subject
 of  ,abderrahman4    ,myself4--,if that
 be the case1 you can scarcely complain 

of being looked  upon with dislike in   
this country1 since in ,barbary the     
,jews are slaves4    ,stranger4--,in    
most parts1 ,i grant you1 but not where 
,i was born1 which  was far up the      
country1 near the deserts4  ,there the  
,jews are free1 and  are feared1 and are
 as valiant men as the ,moslems         
themselves2 as able to  tame the steed1 
or to fire the gun4  ,the ,jews of our  
tribe are not  slaves1 and ,i like not  
to be treated as a slave either by      
,christian or  ,moor4    ,myself4--,your
 history must be a curious one2 ,i would
 fain hear it4    ,stranger4--,my       
history ,i shall tell to no one4  ,i    
have travelled much1 ,i  have been in   
commerce1 and have thriven4  ,i am at   
present established in  ,portugal1 but  
,i love not the people of ,catholic     
countries1 and least of  all these of   
,spain4  ,i have lately experienced the 
most shameful  injustice in the ,aduana 
of this town1 and when ,i complained1   
they  laughed at me1 and called me ,jew4

  ,wherever he turns1 the ,jew is       
reviled1  save in your country1 and on  
that account my blood always warms when 
,i  see an ,englishman4  ,you are a     
stranger here4  ,can ,i do aught for    
you8  ,you may command me4              
,myself4--,i thank you heartily1 but ,i 
am in need of no assistance4            
,stranger4--,have you any bills8  ,i    
will accept them if you have4           
,myself4--,i have no need of assistance2
 but you may do me a favour by          
accepting of a book4    ,stranger4--,i  
will receive it with thanks4  ,i know   
what it is4  ,what a  singular people6  
,the same dress1 the same look1 the same
 book4  ,pelham  gave me one in ,egypt4 
,farewell6  ,your ,jesus was a good man1
 perhaps a  prophet2 but 4 4 4 farewell6
    ,well may the people of ,pontevedra 
envy the natives of ,vigo their bay1    
with which1 in many respects1 none other
 in the world can compare4  ,on  every  
side it is defended by steep and sublime
 hills1 save on the part of  the west1  

where is the outlet to the ,atlantic2   
but in the midst of this  outlet1 up    
towers a huge rocky wall1 or island1    
which breaks the swell1  and prevents   
the billows of the western sea from     
pouring through in full  violence4  ,on 
either side of this island is a passage1
 so broad that  navies might pass       
through at all times in safety4  ,the   
bay itself is  oblong1 running far into 
the land1 and so capacious that a       
thousand sail  of the line might ride in
 it uncrowded4  ,the waters are dark1   
still1 and  deep1 without quicksands or 
shallows1 so that the proudest          
man-of-war  might lie within a stone's  
throw of the town ramparts without any  
fear of  injuring her keel4    ,of many 
a strange event1 and of many a mighty   
preparation1 has this bay  been the     
scene4  ,it was here that the bulky     
dragons of the grand ,armada  were      
mustered2 and it was from hence that1   
fraught with the pomp1 power1  and      
terror of ,old ,spain1 the monster      

fleet1 spreading its enormous sails  to 
the wind1 and bent on the ruin of the   
,lutheran isle1 proudly  steered2--that 
fleet1 to build and man which half the  
forests of ,galicia  had been felled1   
and all the mariners impressed from the 
thousand bays  and creeks of the stern  
,cantabrian shore4  ,it was here that   
the united  flags of ,holland and       
,england triumphed over the pride of    
,spain and  ,france2 when the burning   
timbers of exploded war-ships soared    
above the  tops of the ,gallegan hills1 
and blazing galleons sank with their    
treasure-chests whilst drifting in the  
direction of ,sampayo4  ,it was on  the 
shores of this bay that the ,english    
guards first emptied ,spanish  bodegas1 
whilst the bombs of ,cobham were        
crushing the roofs of the  castle of    
,castro1 and the vecinos of ,pontevedra 
buried their doubloons  in cellars1 and 
flying posts were conveying to ,lugo and
 ,orense the news  of the heretic       
invasion and the disaster of ,vigo4     

,all these events  occurred to my mind  
as ,i stood far up the hill1 at a short 
distance from  the fort1 surveying the  
bay4    8,what are you doing there1     
,cavalier80 roared several voices4      
8,stay1  ,carracho6 if you attempt to   
run we will shoot you60  ,i looked round
 and  saw three or four fellows in dirty
 uniforms1 to all appearance soldiers1  
just above me1 on a winding path1 which 
led up the hill4  ,their muskets  were  
pointed at me4  8,what am ,i doing8     
,nothing1 as you see10 said ,i1  8save  
looking at the bay2 and as for running1 
this is by no means ground  for a       
course40  8,you are our prisoner10 said 
they1 8and you must come  with us to the
 fort40  8,i was just thinking of going 
there10 ,i replied1  8before you thus   
kindly invited me4  ,the fort is the    
very spot ,i was  desirous of seeing40  
,i thereupon climbed up to the place    
where they  stood1 when they instantly  
surrounded me1 and with this escort ,i  
was  marched into the fort1 which might 

have been a strong place in its time1   
but was now rather ruinous4  8,you are  
suspected of being a spy10 said the     
corporal1 who walked in front4          
8,indeed80 said ,i4  8,yes10 replied the
  corporal1 8and several spies have     
lately been taken and shot40    ,upon   
one of the parapets of the fort stood a 
young man1 dressed as a  subaltern      
officer1 and to this personage ,i was   
introduced4  8,we have been  watching   
you this half-hour10 said he1 8as you   
were taking observations40  8,then you  
gave yourselves much useless trouble10  
said ,i4  8,i am an  ,englishman1 and   
was merely looking at the bay4  ,have   
the kindness now to  show me the fort40 
4 4 4    ,after some conversation1 he   
said1 8,i wish to be civil to people of 
your  nation2 you may therefore consider
 yourself at liberty40  ,i bowed1 made  
my exit1 and proceeded down the hill4   
,just before ,i entered the town1       
however1 the corporal1 who had followed 
me unperceived1 tapped me on the        

shoulder4  8,you must go with me to the 
governor10 said he4  8,with all my      
heart10 ,i replied4  ,the governor was  
shaving when we were shown up to  him4  
,he was in his shirt-sleeves1 and held a
 razor in his hand4  ,he  looked very   
ill-natured1 which was perhaps owing to 
his being thus  interrupted in his      
toilet4  ,he asked me two or three      
questions1 and on  learning that ,i had 
a passport1 and was the bearer of a     
letter to the  ,english consul1 he told 
me that ,i was at liberty to depart4    
,so ,i bowed  to the governor of the    
town1 as ,i had done to the governor of 
the fort1  and making my exit1 proceeded
 to my inn4    ,at ,vigo ,i accomplished
 but little in the way of distribution1 
and1 after  a sojourn of a few days1 ,i 
returned in the direction of ,saint     
,james4          ,,appendix4      ,,the 
,,jews ,,in ,,lisbon4  ,chap4 v4 p4 #fg4
      ,in the early editions this       
chapter ended as follows3--    ,i found 
them a vile1 infamous rabble1 about two 

hundred in number4  ,with  a few        
exceptions1 they consist of escapados   
from the ,barbary shore1  from ,tetuan1 
from ,tangier1 but principally from     
,mogadore2 fellows who  have fled to a  
foreign land from the punishment due to 
their misdeeds4  ,their manner of life  
in ,lisbon is worthy of such a goodly   
assemblage of  amis runis4  ,the        
generality of them pretend to work in   
gold and  silver1 and keep small        
peddling shops2 they1 however1          
principally depend  for their livelihood
 on an extensive traffic in stolen goods
 which they  carry on4  ,it is said that
 there is honour among thieves1 but this
 is  certainly not the case with the    
,jews of ,lisbon1 for they are so greedy
  and avaricious1 that they are         
constantly quarrelling about their      
ill-gotten gain1 the result being that  
they frequently ruin each other4  ,their
 mutual jealousy is truly extraordinary4
  ,if one1 by cheating and  roguery1    
gains a cruzado in the presence of      

another1 the latter  instantly says1 8,i
 cry halves10 and if the first refuse he
 is instantly  threatened with an       
information4  ,the manner in which they 
cheat each  other has1 with all its     
infamy1 occasionally something extremely
 droll  and ludicrous4  ,i was one day  
in the shop of a ,swiri1 or ,jew of     
,mogadore1 when a ,jew from ,gibraltar  
entered1 with a ,portuguese female1  who
 held in her hand a mantle1 richly      
embroidered with gold4    ,gibraltar    
,jew 7speaking in broken                
,arabic74--,good day1 ,o ,swiri2 ,god   
has  favoured me this day2 here is a    
bargain by which we shall both gain4  ,i
  have bought this mantle of the woman  
almost for nothing1 for it is  stolen2  
but ,i am poor1 as you know1 ,i have not
 a cruzado2 pay her  therefore the      
price1 that we may then forthwith sell  
the mantle and  divide the gain4        
,swiri4--,willingly1 brother of         
,gibraltar2 ,i will pay the woman for   
the  mantle2 it does not appear a bad   

one4    ,thereupon he flung two cruzados
 to the woman1 who forthwith left the   
shop4    ,gibraltar ,jew4--,thanks1     
brother ,swiri2 this is very kind of    
you4  ,now  let us go and sell the      
mantle1 the gold alone is well worth a  
moidore4  ,but ,i am poor1 and have     
nothing to eat2 give me1 therefore1 the 
half of  that sum and keep the mantle2  
,i shall be content4    ,swiri4--,may   
,allah blot out your name1 you thief6   
,what mean you by  asking me for money8 
,i bought the mantle of the woman and   
paid for it4  ,i know nothing of you4   
,go out of my doors1 dog of a ,nazarene2
 if not1 ,i  will pay you with a kick4  
,the dispute was referred to one of the 
sabios1 or priests2 but the  sabio1 who 
was also from ,mogadore1 at once took   
the part of the  ,swiri1 and decided    
that the other should have nothing4     
,whereupon the  ,gibraltar ,jew cursed  
the sabio1 his father1 mother1 and all  
his family4  ,the sabio replied1 8,i put
 you in nduis10--a kind of purgatory or 

hell4  8,i put you in seven nduis10     
retorted the incensed ,jew1 over whom1  
however1 superstitious fear speedily    
prevailed2 he faltered1 became pale1    
and dropping his voice1 retreated1      
trembling in every limb4    ,the ,jews  
have two synagogues in ,lisbon1 both are
 small2 one is1 however1  tolerably well
 furnished1 it has its reading-desk1 and
 in the middle  there is a rather       
handsome chandelier2 the other is little
 better than a  sty1 filthy to a degree1
 without ornament of any kind4  ,the    
congregation  of this last are thieves  
to a man2 no ,jew of the slightest      
respectability  ever enters it4    ,how 
well do superstition and crime go hand  
in hand6  ,these wretched  beings break 
the eternal commandments of their ,maker
 without scruple2 but  they will not    
partake of the beast of the uncloven    
foot1 and the fish  which has no scales4
  ,they pay no regard to the            
denunciations of holy  prophets against 
the children of sin1 but they quake at  

the sound of a  dark cabalistic word    
pronounced by one perhaps their equal or
 superior in  villainy2 as if ,god would
 delegate the exercise of his power to  
the  workers of iniquity4    ,i was one 
day sauntering along the ,caesodr1 when 
a ,jew1 with whom ,i  had previously    
exchanged a word or two1 came up and    
addressed me4    ,jew4--,the blessing of
 ,god upon you1 brother2 ,i know you to 
be a wise and  powerful man1 and ,i have
 conceived much regard for you2 it is on
 that  account that ,i wish to put you  
in the way of gaining much money4  ,come
  with me1 and ,i will conduct you to a 
place where there are forty chests  of  
tea4  ,it is a sereka1 and the thieves  
are willing to dispose of it  for a     
trifle2 for there is search being made1 
and they are in much fear4  ,i can raise
 one-half of what they demand1 do you   
supply the other1 we  will then divide  
it1 each shall go his own way and       
dispose of his  portion4                
,myself4--,wherefore1 ,o son of ,arbat1 

do you propose this to me1 who am a     
stranger8  ,surely you are mad4  ,have  
you not your own people about you  whom 
you know1 and in whom you can confide8  
,jew4--,it is because ,i know our people
 here that ,i do not confide in  them2  
we are in the galoot of sin4  ,were ,i  
to confide in my brethren  there would  
be a dispute1 and perhaps they would rob
 me1 and few of them  have any money4   
,were ,i to apply to the sabio he might 
consent1 but  when ,i ask for my portion
 he would put me in ndui4  ,you ,i do   
not fear2  you are good1 and would do me
 no harm1 unless ,i attempted to deceive
 you1  and that ,i dare not do1 for ,i  
know you are powerful4  ,come with me1  
master1 for ,i wish to gain something1  
that ,i may return to ,arbat1 where ,i  
have children4 4 4 4    ,such are ,jews 
in ,lisbon4                             
99 99 99 99 99                          
,,end ,,of ,,vol4 ,i4                   
99 99 99 99 99                          
99 99 99 99 99               ,,london3  

,,printed ,,by ,,william ,,clowes ,,and 
,,sons1 ,,limited1                      
,,stamford ,,street ,,and ,,charing     
,,cross4          ,footnotes      #j;a  
8,om ,frands ,gonzales1 og ,rodrik ,cid1
  ,end siunges i ,sierra ,murene60      
,krnike ,riim4  ,by ,severin ,grundtvig4
  ,copenhagen1 #ahbi4    #j;b  ,see     
,burke's ,history of ,spain1 vol4 i4 p4 
#ahb1 and vol4 ii4 pp4  #hg-ie1 #aje4   
#j;c  ,he reigned ,july--,september1    
#aejf4    #j;d  ,known as los fueros4   
,see ,duncan1 ,the ,english in ,spain1  
p4 #afc4    #j;e  ,graydon was a        
lieutenant in the ,royal ,navy1 who1    
finding himself  unemployed at          
,gibraltar in #ahce1 undertook the      
distribution of the  ,scriptures1 and   
continued the work until #ahdj4    #j;f 
,william ,harris ,rule1 a ,wesleyan     
minister1 was born at ,penryn1          
,cornwall1 in ,november1 #ahjb1 educated
 at first for an artist1 was called  to 
the ministry in #ahbf1 and proceeded as 
a ,wesleyan missionary to ,malta1       

making afterwards many voyages to the   
,west ,indies1 until he was ordered  to 
,gibraltar1 where he arrived in         
,february1 #ahcb4  ,see ,rule1 ,mission 
to  ,gibraltar and ,spain 7#ahdd72      
,recollections of my ,life and ,work    
7#ahhf74    #j;g  ,of ,mr4 ,lyon ,i can 
learn nothing of any interest4    #j;h  
,don ,luis de ,usoz y ,rio was born at  
,madrid of noble parents in ,may1       
#ahje4  ,a pupil of the well-known      
,cardinal ,mezzofanti1 he was appointed1
  while yet a very young man1 to the    
,chair of ,hebrew at ,valladolid4  ,in  
#ahci he made the acquaintance in       
,england of ,benjamin ,wiffen1 the      
,quaker1  so well known in connexion    
with ,protestant literature and the     
slavery  question in ,spain2 and after  
helping ,borrow in his endeavour to     
circulate  the ,scriptures1 and having  
accumulated an immense library of       
religious  books1 some of which were    
bequeathed to ,wiffen1 some to the      
,british and  ,foreign ,bible ,society1 

and some to the great library at        
,madrid1 he died  in ,august1 #ahfe4    
,see the works of ,wiffen and ,boehmer2 
,menendez ,pelayo1  ,heterodoxos        
,espaoles1 lib4 viii4 cap4 #b2 and      
finally ,mayor1 ,spain1  ,portugal1 and 
the ,bible 7,london1 #ahib74    #b      
,chili in #ahaj-ahah2 ,paraguay in      
#ahaa-ahad2 ,la ,plata in #ahaj-ahaf2   
,mexico in #ahaj-ahba2 ,peru and        
,bolivia not until #ahbd4    #c  ,the   
,duc de ,berri was the second son of the
 ,comte d',artois1 and as  his elder    
brother1 the ,duc d',angoulme1 was      
childless1 he was practically  heir to  
the crown of ,france1 and his           
assassination in #ahbj had a most       
disastrous effect upon the royalist     
fortunes in that country4  ,the son     
that was born to his wife some months   
after his death was the ,duc de         
,bordeaux1 better known in our own times
 as the ,comte de ,chambord1 8,henri    
,v40    #d;a  ,she was proclaimed in    
#ahcc2 again on attaining her majority  

in  #ahdc2 and was formally deposed in  
#ahfh4  ,she still 7#ahie7 lives in     
,paris4    #d;b  ,queen ,christina soon 
afterwards married her paramour1        
,ferdinand  ,muoz1 created ,duke of     
,rianzares4    #d;c  ,it was a curious  
coincidence that ,don ,carlos1          
,pretender in ,spain1  and ,dom ,miguel1
 ,pretender in ,portugal1 should have   
left ,lisbon on the  same day in an     
,english ship4    #g;a  ,see ,duncan1   
,the ,english in ,spain1 p4 #bf4    #h  
,in the words of an ancient chronicler1 
8,tuvose por muy cierto1 que  le fueron 
dadas yerbas0 7,zurita1 ,anales de      
,aragon1 lib4 xviii4 cap4 #g74    #ad;a 
,villages between ,madrid and ,toledo4  
#a  ,mendizabal had become ,premier and 
,minister of ,finance in ,september1    
and the new ,cortes was opened at       
,madrid by a speech from the throne on  
,november #af4    #c;a  ,bethlehem4     
,the church was founded on the spot     
where ,vasco da  ,gama embarked for his 
memorable voyage1 ,july #h1 #adig4      

#c;b  ,more correctly ,caes do ,sodr1   
now the ,praa dos ,romulares4    #c;c   
,sir ,charles ,napier 7#aghf-ahfj7      
defeated and destroyed the ,miguelite   
squadron off ,cape ,st4 ,vincent on     
,july #c1 #ahcc4    #e  ,one of the     
peculiarities of ,lisbon is the number  
and variety of the  names borne by the  
same street or square4  ,this noble     
square1 nearly #fjj  feet long by #ejj  
wide1 is1 as may be supposed1 no longer 
known by the  name of the detested      
,inquisition1 but is officially         
designated ,praa do  ,commercio2 it is  
invariably spoken of by the ,portuguese 
inhabitants as  the ,terreiro do ,pao1  
and by the ,english as ,blackhorse      
,square1 from the  fine equestrian      
statue of ,king ,jos ,i41 erected in    
#agge4    #f;a  ,henry ,fielding1 born  
#agjg1 died at ,lisbon1 #aged4    #f;b  
,dr4 ,philip ,doddridge1 born #agjb1    
died at ,lisbon1 #agea4    #g;b  ,cintra
 is an agglomeration of beauties1       
natural and architectural1  and is full 

of historic and antiquarian interest4   
,the greater part of  the buildings are 
,moorish2 but1 unlike the ,alhambra in  
,spain1 it has been  the abode of       
,christian kings ever since the         
expulsion of the ,moslems in  the       
twelfth century1 and the palace         
especially is to-day a singular and     
most beautiful mixture of ,moorish and  
,christian architecture4    #h;a        
,tivoli 7,tibur7 is eighteen miles      
north-east of ,rome4    #h;b  ,born     
#aeed1 succeeded to the throne #aeeg1   
killed in battle in ,africa  in #aegh4  
#i;a  ,alcazar-,kebir al-,araish1 near  
,tangier or ,larache1 in ,morocco4      
#i;b  ,joo or ,john de ,castro1 the     
,castro forte of ,camoens1 second only  
to ,vasco da ,gama1 among the great     
,portuguese discoverers and warriors of 
the sixteenth century1 was born in      
#aejj1 appointed governor-general of    
the ,portuguese ,indies in #aedf1 and   
died in #aedh4  ,after a deadly battle  
with the ,moslems near ,goa1 in which   

his son ,ferdinand was killed1 he       
pledged the hairs of the moustache and  
beard of his dead son to provide  funds1
 not to defend1 but to re-fortify the   
city of ,goa4  ,the money was           
cheerfully provided on this slender     
security1 and punctually repaid by  the 
borrower4    #i;c  ,william ,beckford of
 ,fonthill1 the author of ,vathek4  ,his
 ,quinta  de ,montserrat1 with perhaps  
the most beautiful gardens in ,europe1  
lies  about three miles from the palace 
at ,cintra1 and is now in the possession
  of ,sir ,francis ,cook1 ,bart41 better
 known by his ,portuguese title of      
,visconde de ,montserrat4    #aa  ,a    
version of the entire ,scriptures from  
the ,vulgate was published  in          
twenty-three volumes #abmo at ,lisbon1  
#agha-hc by ,dr4 ,antonio ,pereira de   
,figueiredo4  ,this was re-edited and   
published at ,lisbon1 #agid-ahai4  ,an  
earlier version was that of ,almeida1 a 
,portuguese missionary in ,ceylon1  who 
became a convert to ,protestantism at   

the close of the seventeenth  century4  
7,see note on p4 #ih47    #ab  ,if      
,cintra is the ,alhambra of ,portugal1  
,mafra is the ,escurial4  ,the  famous  
convent was1 moreover1 founded by ,john 
,v4 in fulfilment of a vow4  ,the       
building was commenced in #agag1 and the
 church consecrated only in  #agcj4     
#ad;b  ,he was killed in ,june1 #ahce4  
7,see ,introduction47    #af  ,alem1    
8beyond20 ,tejo1 the river ,tagus4      
#ah  8,i1 who am a smuggler40  ,the     
,spanish version1 8,yo que soy10 etc41  
is more familiar1 and more harmonious4  
#ai  8,when the king arrived40    #be;a 
,so spelt by ,borrow1 but the correct   
,portuguese form is ,dom4    #be;b      
,rabbits were so numerous in the south  
of the ,peninsula in  ,carthaginian and 
,roman times1 that they are even said to
 have given their  name 7,phn4 8,pahan07
 to ,hispania4  ,strabo certainly speaks
 of their  number1 and of the mode of   
destroying them with ferrets1 and the   
rabbit  is one of the commonest of the  

early devices of ,spain 7see ,burke's   
,history of ,spain1 chap4 ii474    #bh  
,may #bf1 #ahcd4    #bi  ,the ballad of 
,svend ,vonved1 translated from the     
original ,danish1  was included by      
,borrow in his collection of ,romantic  
,ballads1 a thin  demy #hvo volume of   
#ahg pages--now very rare--published by 
,john ,taylor in  #ahbf4  ,the lines    
there read as follows3--        8,a wild
 swine sat on his shoulders broad1      
,upon his bosom a black bear snor'd40   
,the original ballad may be found in the
 ,kjmpe ,viser1 and was  translated into
 ,german by ,grimm1 who expressed the   
greatest admiration  for the poem4      
,svend in ,danish means 8swain0 or      
8youth10 and it is  characteristic of   
,borrow's mystification of proper names 
that he should1  by a quasi-translation 
and archaic spelling1 give the title of 
the ,danish  ballad the appearance of an
 actual ,english surname4    #cc;a  ,the
 ,spanish ,seo  a cathedral4    #cc;b   
,serra is the ,portuguese form of the   

,spanish ,sierra  a saw4    #ce  ,the   
barbarous seaman's ,english             
transliteration of ,setubal1 the  town  
of ,tubal1 a word which perpetuates one 
of the most ancient legends  of ,spanish
 antiquity 7see ,genesis x4 #b1 and     
,burke's ,history of ,spain1  chap4 i474
    #ch  #aeed-aegh 7see note on p4 #h74
    #ci  8,the ,fashion or ordering of  
the ,chapel of the most illustrious and 
,christian prince1 ,henry ,,vi4 ,king of
 ,england and ,france1 and lord of      
,ireland1 described for the most serene 
prince1 ,alfonso the illustrious  ,king 
of ,portugal ,alfonso ,v41 #8,the       
,african' by his humble servant         
,william ,sav41 ,dean of the aforesaid  
chapel40  ,this was ,william ,saye of   
,new ,college1 ,oxford1 who was ,proctor
 of the ,university in #adda1 and       
afterwards ,d4,d4 and ,dean of the      
,cathedral of ,st4 ,paul1 and of the    
,chapel  of ,henry ,,vi4  7,see ,gutch1 
,appendix to ,woods ,fasti ,oxonienses1 
p4 #dh74    #da  ,portuguese orao or    

oraam--a prayer4    #dd  ,this1 the     
correct ,portuguese form1 is that       
generally used in  ,english1 though the 
,spanish auto-de-f is often referred to4
    #dg  ,alecrim is usually supposed to
 be a word of ,arab origin4  ,the       
,spanish for rosemary is1 however1 quite
 different1 romero4  ,the ,goths  and   
,vandals have1 it may be noticed in     
passing1 scarcely enriched the  modern  
vocabulary of the ,peninsula by a single
 word4  7,see the ,glossary47    #ej    
,the modern form of 8,hymne             
,marseillaise0 is less correct4  ,hymns 
of the kind are masculine in ,french2   
those that are sung in churches only    
are feminine6    #ee  ,spanish hidalgo4 
#eg  8,surrender1 scoundrel1 surrender60
    #ei;a  ,the ,portuguese form4       
#ei;b  ,the missing word would seem to  
be 8,catholics40  ,borrow was fond of   
such1 apparently meaningless1 mystery4  
#ff  ,toreno 7#aghf-ahdc71 a statesman  
and historian1 thrice banished on       
account of his liberal opinions1 died in

 exile in ,paris4  ,his friend          
,martinez de la ,rosa 7#aghi-ahfb71 who 
experienced a somewhat similar fate1    
was the author of some dramas and a     
satire entitled ,el ,cementerio de      
,monco4  ,see ,kennedy1 ,modern ,poets  
and ,poetry of ,spain1 p4 #afi4         
,toreno's historical works have been    
translated into ,french4    #fg;a  ,when
 the ,jews were banished from ,spain by 
the ,catholic sovereign  in #adib1 they 
were received into ,portugal by the more
 liberal ,john ,,ii41  on payment of a  
tax or duty of eight cruzados4          
,armourers and smiths  paid four        
cruzados only4  ,before the marriage of 
his cousin1 ,king  ,emmanuel1 with the  
widowed ,princess ,isabella in #adig1   
the ,jews were  subject to renewed      
persecution in ,portugal by arrangement 
between  ,isabella the ,catholic and her
 son-in-law 7see ,burke's ,history of   
,spain1  chaps1 xlvi41 xlix474    #fg;b 
,see ,appendix to this volume4    #fh   
,a seaport town in ,north ,africa1      

better known by the name of  ,mogadore  
7see chap4 lii474    #fi  ,the name that
 may not be spoken2 that is1 ,jehovah or
 ,yahweh 7see  ,glossary1 sub verb474   
#gj  ,strange anecdotes1 however1 are   
told1 tending to prove that ,jews of    
the ancient race are yet to be found in 
,portugal3 it is said that they  have   
been discovered under circumstances the 
most extraordinary4  ,i am  the more    
inclined to believe in their existence  
from certain strange  incidents         
connected with a certain race1 which    
occurred within the sphere  of my own   
knowledge1 and which will be related    
further on4--,note by  ,borrow4    #ge  
,portuguese real  one-twentieth of an   
,english penny4    #gf  ,the lines1     
which ,borrow1 quoting from memory1 has 
not given quite  accurately1 occur in   
the ballad of 8,the ,cout of ,keilder40 
,they are1  according to the text in the
 edition of #aheh1 with 8,life by ,sir  
,walter  ,scott0--        8,the hounds  
they howled and backward fled1          

,as struck by ,fairy charm0 7stan4 #af74
    ,john ,leyden1 ,m4,d41 was born in  
#agge1 near ,hawick1 and died in ,java  
in  #ahaa1 after an adventurous and     
varied life4  ,his ballad of ,lord      
,soulis is  of the same character as    
that so highly praised by ,borrow4      
#ha  ,the place of the brooks1 or       
water-courses4  ,sp4 arroyo  brook4     
#hc  ,the first ,lusitanians of whom we 
have any record or tradition were       
almost certainly ,celts4    #he  ,may   
you go with ,god2 i4e4 ,god be with you2
 good-bye4    #hi  ,the modern          
,portuguese vossem or voss has          
degenerated into a  mode of address to  
inferiors1 and not having any such      
vocable as the  ,spanish ,vd nor using  
the second person plural in ordinary    
address1 as in  ,french and ,english1   
the ,portuguese is forced to turn every 
sentence1 8,is  the gentleman's health  
good80  8,will ,mr4 ,continho pass the  
mustard80  8,if  ,mr4 ,borrow smokes1   
will he accept this cigar80  ,in        

familiar speech the  second person      
singular is universally used4    #ij    
,castellano afrancesado ,diablo         
condenado4  ,the proverb is of very     
general application4    #if  ,during the
 ,peninsular war1 ,badajoz was besieged 
by the ,french in  #ahjh and in #ahji1  
and again in #ahaa1 when it surrendered1
 ,march #aa1 to  ,soult4  ,it was thrice
 besieged by ,wellington2 first on      
,april #bj1 #ahaa2  next in ,may and    
,june of the same year2 and thirdly1 in 
the spring of  #ahab1 when he captured  
the city by storm1 on the night of      
,april #f1 after  a murderous contest1  
and a loss1 during the twenty days'     
siege1 of #gb  officers and #ifc men    
killed1 and #cjf officers and #cdhc men 
wounded4  ,the  province of ,badajoz has
 an area of #hfhg square miles1 and a   
population of  7#ahhd7 #deg1cfe4    #ih 
,see note on p4 #aa4  ,it is uncertain  
where the missionary ,joao  ,ferreira   
d',almeida made this translation2       
probably in ,ceylon4  ,the place  and   

date of his death are equally uncertain4
  ,his translation1 revised by  more    
than one ,dutch scholar1 was finally    
printed in #agab at ,amsterdam1 at  the 
cost of the ,dutch ,east ,india         
,company4  ,when the ,british and       
,foreign  ,bible ,society first         
undertook the publication of the ,bible 
in ,portuguese  in the years #ahji-ahaj1
 this version of ,almeida was selected2 
but the  objections made to its accuracy
 were so numerous that in #ahah1 and    
again  in #ahba1 a reprint of ,pereira's
 translation was adopted in its place4  
#ii  ,this was indeed treason1 when the 
8#ahaa's0 were in their prime1 and  the 
8#ahcd's0 were already maturing4  ,but  
ordinary port wine1 as made up  for the 
,english market1 was rather filthy1 and 
as remade up by the grocer  or small    
wine merchant in ,england1 resembled    
blacking rather than the  juice of the  
grape4    #ajj  ,this is certainly not  
true now4  ,perhaps1 if ,borrow's       
explanation  is the true one1 in that we

 have not of late 8roughly handled0 our 
jealous neighbours1 ,sebastopol and     
,pekin and excuses for being in ,egypt  
have dulled the friendly feelings       
generated by ,vitoria and ,waterloo6    
#ajb;a  8,charity1 ,sir ,cavalier1 for  
the love of ,god1 bestow an alms upon   
me1 that ,i may purchase a mouthful of  
red wine40    #ajb;b  8,st4 ,james and  
close ,spain60  ,the battle-cry of      
,castilian  chivalry for a thousand     
years4    #ajb;c  ,every one who has    
gone from ,portugal into ,spain must    
understand  and sympathize with         
,borrow's feelings4  ,i have even felt  
something of the  same expansion in     
,south ,america1 when the ,brazilian    
gave place to the  ,argentine4  ,i have 
no doubt that the language has a great  
deal to say to  it4    #ajc;a  ,in ,the 
,zincali1 part ii4 chap4 i41 the date is
 given as ,january  #f1 #ahcf4    #ajc;b
  ,they are as old as the ancient       
,celtiberian times1 and are  mentioned  
as  in a treaty1 over #aej years ,b4,c41

 by ,appian1 in his  ,iberica4    #ajd  
,i suppose ,portugal1 ,spain1 and       
,england4    #aje;a  ,see ,the ,zincali1
 part ii4 chap4 i4    #aje;b  ,for the  
meaning of this and other gypsy words1  
see the ,glossary4    #ajf;a  ,see ,the 
,zincali1 part i4 chap4 vii41 part ii4  
chap4 vi41  ,romano ,lavo-,lil1 p4 #bdd4
    #ajf;b  ,see ,the ,zincali1 part ii4
 chap4 vi4    #ajh  ,the ,zincali1 part 
ii4 chap4 i4    #aaj  8,i do not        
understand40    #aab  ,spirit of the old
 man4    #aad;a  ,deceived4  ,an        
,english termination added to a ,spanish
 termination  of a ,romany word1        
jonjabar1 q4v4 in ,glossary4    #aad;b  
,el crallis ha nicobado la liri de los  
,cals4  7,see ,the  ,zincali part ii4   
chap4 i47    #aae  8,doing business1    
doing business2 he has much business to 
do40    #aaf  8,we have the horse40     
#aah  ,see ,the ,zincali1 part ii4 chap4
 vi4    #abj  8,don't trouble yourself10
 8,don't be afraid40  ,see vol4 ii4 p4  
#b4  ,cuidao is ,andalusian and ,gitano 

for cuidado4    #abb  ,see ,the         
,zincali1 part ii4 chap4 vi4    #abc;a  
,mother of the gypsies4    #abc;b  ,see 
,the ,zincali1 part ii4 chap4 vii4      
#abd  ,see ,the ,zincali1 part ii4 chap4
 vi4  cauring in ,english  ,romany4     
,romano ,lavo-,lil1 p4 #bde4    #abf    
8,say nothing to him1 my lad2 he is a   
hog of an alguazil40    #abg  8,at your 
service40    #acb  8,who goes there80   
,fr4 ,qui vive8  ,the proper answer to  
the  challenge by a ,spanish sentry is  
,espaa1 8,spain10 or ,piasano1 8a       
civilian40    #acc;a  8,shut up20 8,hold
 your tongue40    #acc;b  ,stealing a   
donkey4    #ace  ,see ,the ,zincali1    
part i4 ch4 v4    #ach;a  ,see          
,introduction4    #ach;b  ,el ,serrador1
 a ,carlist partisan1 who about this    
period was much  talked of in ,spain4   
,note by ,borrow 7see the ,glossary1    
s4v474    #ach;c  ,he is a man indeed2  
lit4 very much a man4    #adc  ,on foot4
    #adf  ,estremadura was for long     
years a vast winter pasturage whither   

the  flocks from the ,castiles were     
driven each successive autumn1 to return
 to  their own cooler mountains on the  
return of summer4  ,the flocks were     
divided into cabaas of about #aj1jjj    
sheep1 in charge of fifty  shepherds and
 fifty of their immense dogs4    #aej;a 
8,all are taken40    #aej;b  ,no doubt  
,oropesa1 where the ,duke of ,frias has 
an ancient and  somewhat dilapidated    
palace4    #aeb  ,las ,batuecas is a    
valley in the south-west corner of the  
modern  province of ,salamanca1 four    
leagues from the city of that name1     
eight  leagues from ,ciudad ,rodrigo1   
and about six leagues from ,bejar4  ,the
  principal town or village in the      
remote valley itself was ,alberca4  ,the
  strange inhabitants of the valley of  
,batuecas are entirely legendary1 as  is
 the story of their discovery by a page 
of the ,duke of ,alva in the  reign of  
,philip ,,ii4  ,see ,verdadera relacion 
de las ,batuecas1 by ,manuel  de        
,gonzalez 7,madrid1 #afic71 ,ponz1      

,viaje vii4 #bja2 ,feijoo1 ,teatro      
,critico1 iv4 #bda1 where the valley is 
compared with the equally mythical      
island of ,atlantis4    #aec  ,more     
commonly spelt ticking4    #aed  ,see   
,lavengro1 chap4 #a4    #aef;a  ,the    
conventional diminutive of ,pepa1 which 
is itself the  diminutive of ,josefa1 as
 is ,pepe of ,josefe4    #aef;b  ,this  
is1 of course1 a fancy name4  ,borrow   
has chosen that of a  ,spanish ,jew1 one
 of the great ,rabbinical commentators4 
,see ,the  ,zincali1 part i4 chap4 ii4  
#aeg;a  ,this concession to local       
prejudice is delightful4  ,but it must  
be  remembered that barraganeria or     
recognized concubinage was approved by  
,church and ,state in ,spain for many   
hundred years4  ,see ,burke's ,history  
of ,spain1 vol4 i41 ,appendix ii4       
#aeg;b  ,ferdinand the ,catholic and his
 wife ,isabella4  ,their systematic     
persecution and banishment of the       
,jews--the edict was dated ,march #cj1  
#adib--;are well known4    #afb  ,the   

street of the ,bramble4    #afc  ,see   
the ,introduction1 and ,duncan1 ,the    
,english in ,spain1  passim4    #afd;a  
,juan ,alvarez y ,mendizabal was a more 
or less ,christianized ,jew1  who began 
his career as a commissariat contractor 
to the national army on  the ,french    
invasion in #ahjh4  ,born in #agij1 he  
rendered important  services to ,spain1 
until in #ahbc he was compelled1 like so
 many of his  liberal compatriots1 to   
take refuge in ,england from the tyranny
 of  ,ferdinand ,,vii4  ,abroad as well 
as at home1 he displayed his great      
talent  for finance for the benefit of  
,spain1 and returned in #ahce as        
,minister of  ,finance in the ,toreno   
,administration4  ,he resigned in #ahcg1
 was again  called to power in #ahda1   
and died in #ahec4    #afd;b  ,the      
honourable ,george ,villiers was our    
,minister at ,madrid from  #ahcc to     
,march1 #ahch1 when1 having succeeded to
 the title of his uncle as  ,earl of    
,clarendon1 he returned to ,england1    

where in course of time he  became ,lord
 ,lieutenant of ,ireland and ,foreign   
,minister4    #aff;a  ,i have been so   
far unable to discover the name of this 
gentleman4    #aff;b  ,mendizabal1 as   
has been said1 was a ,jew by race4      
#afh  ,the word 8cigarette0 was not yet 
naturalized in ,england4  ,the  thing   
itself was practically unknown2 even    
cigar was sometimes spelt  segar4       
#afi  ,ojalateros1 criers of ojala2     
,arab4 ,inshallah1 8if it please  ,god10
 8would to ,god40  ,pasteleros1         
pastry-cooks1 8wishers and dishers40    
#agj;a  ,see the ,glossary4    #agj;b   
8,a gypsy matron without honour spoke to
 her man of blood40    #agj;c  ,these   
are not fanciful names4  ,francisco     
,montes1 who was born in  #ahje1 was not
 only a celebrated matador1 but the     
author of a work on  ,tauromachia2 he   
appeared in the ring for the last time  
in #ahej1 and died  in #ahea4  ,sevilla 
was the name borne by many less         
distinguished  toreadores2 ,francisco   

,sevilla1 the picador1 who appeared for 
the last  time in #ahch1 is perhaps the 
man referred to4  ,poquito ,pan1 or ,bit
 of  ,bread1 was the ,tauromachian      
nickname of ,antonio ,sanchez1 one of   
the  favourite picadores in the         
cuadrilla or band of ,montes4    #aga   
,a gallows-show4  ,yet1 as will be seen 
in the text1 the gallows or  furca      
itself is no longer used4    #agb       
,peace1 pity1 and tranquillity4         
#agd;a  ,manolo is a somewhat difficult 
word to translate2 it is applied  to the
 flash or fancy man and his manola in   
,madrid only1 a class fond  of pleasure1
 of fine clothes1 of bull-fights1 and of
 sunshine1 with a  code of honour of    
their own2 men and women rather         
picturesque than  exemplary1 and        
eminently racy of the soil4    #agd;b   
,in #ahjh4    #age  ,at the last attack 
on ,warsaw1 when the loss of the        
,russians  amounted to upwards of twenty
 thousand men1 the soldiery mounted the 
breach1 repeating1 in measured chant1   

one of their popular songs1 8,come1  let
 us cut the cabbage10 etc4--,note by    
,borrow4  ,see the ,glossary1 s4v4      
,mujik4    #agf  8,another glass2 come  
on1 little ,englishman1 another glass40 
#agg;a  ,see note on chap4 x4 p4 #ach4  
#agg;b  ,montero in ,spanish means 8a   
hunter20 and a montero cap1 which  every
 reader of ,sterne is familiar with at  
least by name1 is a cap1  generally of  
leather1 such as was used by hunters in 
the ,peninsula4    #agg;c  ,twelve      
ounces of bread1 small pound1 as given  
in the prison4  ,note by ,borrow4       
#agh  ,according to the late ,marquis de
 ,santa ,coloma1 as reported by ,mr4    
,wentworth ,webster 7,journal of the    
,gypsy ,lore ,society1 vol4 i4 p4 #aea71
  8in ,madrid ,borrow used to ride a    
fine black ,andalusian horse 7v4 p4     
#bfa71 with a ,russian skin for a       
saddle1 and without stirrups40  ,this   
was1 however1 during his second visit1  
and ,don ,jorge may have changed  his   
practice4  ,that he could ride without  

stirrups1 or saddle either1 is  certain 
7p4 #cjh1 and ,lavengro1 chap4 xiii474  
#ahj;a  ,general ,cordova had been      
entrusted from the beginning of the war 
with high command in the queen's armies4
  ,he succeeded ,valdez as              
commander-in-chief immediately after the
 death of ,zumalacarregui1 at the  end  
of ,june1 #ahce1 to the end of ,august1 
#ahcf1 when he was succeeded by         
,espartero4  ,see ,duncan1 ,the ,english
 in ,spain1 pp4 #eh1 #gb4    #ahj;b     
,see ,introduction1 and ,revue des ,deux
 ,mondes1 #ae fevrier1 #ahea4    #aha;a 
,may1 #ahcf4    #aha;b  ,don ,francisco 
,xavier de ,isturitz was born in #agij1 
and after  taking part in the various   
liberal governments from #ahjh to #ahbc1
 was  forced to fly to ,england on the  
absolutist counter-revolution in that   
year4  ,he returned to ,spain on the    
amnesty in #ahcd1 and on the fall of    
his old friend ,mendizabal in #ahcf1 he 
became minister for foreign  affairs1   
and lived to negotiate the 8,spanish    

marriages10 and to occupy  many high    
political and diplomatic posts under    
,isabella ,,ii4    #aha;c  ,see         
,introduction1 p4 xxiii4    #ahc  8,he  
will do what you want for you3 will     
gratify your fancy40    #ahf  8,stuff   
and nonsense40    #ahg  ,charles ,,iii4 
of ,spain 7#agei-aghh74  ,see ,the      
,zincali1 part i4  chap4 xii4    #ahh   
8,how goes it80    #aij  ,whether this  
episode of ,benedict ,mol has any       
foundation in fact ,i  cannot say4  ,i  
was on the point of starting for        
,compostella1 where ,i  might have      
investigated the incident detailed1 vol4
 ii4 p4 #ahc1 and ,i had  actually paid 
for my ticket to ,irun 7,may #b1 #ahie71
 when ,i was summoned to  a more distant
 shrine on the slopes of the ,southern  
,pacific4    #aia  ,a cuarto1 a trifle  
over an ,english farthing1 being almost 
exactly #d_/cd of #b;d4    #aib  8,in   
short40    #aic;a  ,borrow writes       
indifferently ,saint ,james1 ,st4 ,jago1
 and  ,santiago4  ,the last is the      

correct ,spanish form1 while the        
,english  usually speak of the place as 
,compostella4  ,it has been thought best
 to  retain the form used by the author 
in each case4    #aic;b  ,witch4  ,ger4 
,hexe4--,note by ,borrow4    #aic;c     
8,thanks be to ,god60    #aid  ,see note
 on p4 #cdj4    #aif  ,seor ,menendez   
,pelayo remarks that the government was 
too busy  with ,carlists in the country 
and revolutionaries in the city to care 
very  much about ,borrow or the ,bible1 
and they therefore allowed him for the  
moment to do pretty much as he pleased  
7,heterodoxos ,espaoles1 tom4  iii4 p4  
#ffb74    #aig  ,or ,san ,ildefonso4    
#aih  ,this was ,august #ad1 #ahcf4     
#aii  ,the ,general ,post-office4       
#bjd;a  ,gypsy fellows4    #bjd;b  ,a   
compound of the modern ,greek 1 and the 
,sanscrit kara1  the literal meaning    
being ,lord of the horse-shoe 7i4e4     
maker72 it is  one of the private       
cognominations of 8,the ,smiths10 an    
,english gypsy  clan4--,note by ,borrow4

  ,see ,the ,zincali1 vol4 i4 p4 #ca2   
,romano  ,lavo-,lil1 p4 #bbf1 and the   
,glossary4    #bjf  ,of these lines the 
following translation1 in the style of  
the old  ,english ballad1 will1 perhaps1
 not be unacceptable3--        8,what   
down the hill comes hurrying there8--   
,with a hey1 with a ho1 a sword and a   
gun6      ,quesada's bones1 which a     
hound doth bear4         ,hurrah1 brave 
brothers6--the work is done40    --,note
 by ,borrow4    #bjg;a  8,one night ,i  
was with thee40    #bjg;b  ,don ,rafael1
 son of ,d4 ,eugenio ,antonio del ,riego
 y ,nuez1 whose  poems were published in
 #ahdd by ,d4 ,miguel del ,riego1 ,canon
 of ,oviedo1 was  born at ,oviedo on the
 #bdth ,october1 #aghe4  ,on the #ast   
,january1 #ahbj1 he  began the revolt   
against ,ferdinand ,,vii4 7see          
,introduction1 p4 xvi471 at  ,las       
,cabezas de ,san ,juan4  ,he was finally
 hanged at ,madrid on the #gth          
,november1 #ahbc4  ,el ,himno de ,riego1
 the ,spanish ,marseillaise1 was        

composed by ,huerta in #ahbj1 the words 
being written by ,evariste              
,san-,miguel4    #bjg;c  8,au revoir1   
,sir ,george60    #bjh  #ahcf4    #bab;a
  ,dom ,jos ,agostinho ,freire was      
minister of war to ,dom ,pedro1 and     
subsequently minister of the interior   
under the ,duke of ,terceira4  ,in      
#ahcf he was murdered at ,lisbon by the 
,national ,guard1 while driving in  his 
carriage4    #bab;b  ,the ,carlist      
leader4  ,see ,duncan1 ,the ,english in 
,spain1 p4 #hh4    #bad  ,latin1 ,btis  
the river afterwards named by the ,arabs
 ,wady al  ,kebir1 the ,guadalquivir4   
#bae  ,the vane1 porque gira4  ,the     
modern tower is about #bge feet high4   
,see ,girault de ,prangey1 ,essai sur   
l',architecture des ,maures et ,arabes  
7#ahda71 pp4 #ajc-aab4    #baf;a  ,the  
largest and perhaps the grandest of the 
medival cathedrals1  not only of ,spain1
 but of ,europe4  ,it was commenced in  
#adjc1 and  completed about #aebj4      
#baf;b  #acej-acfi4    #baf;c  ,triana1 

for long the ,whitefriars or ,alsatia of
 ,seville1 the  resort of thieves1      
gypsies1 and mala gente of every        
description4  ,see  ,zincali1 pt4 ii4   
chap4 ii4  ,the ,arabic ,tarayana is    
said to perpetuate  the name of the     
,emperor ,trajan1 who was certainly born
 in the  neighbourhood1 and who would   
not be proud of his supposed            
conciudadanos6  ,the modern suburb was  
almost entirely destroyed by the        
overflowing of the ,guadalquivir in     
#ahgf4  ,there is now 7#ahie7 a         
permanent  bridge across the river4     
#bah  ,this is1 ,i think1 a good        
,english word4  ,the ,spanish form would
 be  desesperados4    #bbj  ,king of the
 gypsies in ,triana4    #bba  ,isidore  
,justin ,severin1 ,baron ,taylor1 was   
born at ,brussels in  #aghi4  ,his      
father was an ,englishman1 and his      
mother half ,irish1 half  ,flemish4     
,isidore was naturalized as a           
,frenchman1 and after serious  studies  
and artistic travels throughout ,europe1

 he returned to ,france on  the         
,restoration with a commission in the   
,royal ,guard4  ,his ,bertram1  written 
in collaboration with ,charles ,nodier1 
had a great success on the  ,paris stage
 in #ahba4  ,in #ahbc he accompanied the
 ,french army to ,spain1  and on his    
return was made ,commissaire ,royal du  
,thtre ,franais1 in  which capacity he  
authorized the production of ,hernani   
and the ,mariage  de ,figaro4  ,in #ahcc
 he arranged for the transport of the   
two obelisks  from ,luxor to ,paris1 and
 in #ahce he was commissioned by ,louis 
,philippe  with an artistic mission to  
,spain to purchase pictures for the     
,louvre1  and on his return1 having     
transferred the ,standish collection of 
paintings from ,london to ,paris1 he was
 named ,inspecteur-,gnral des beaux     
arts in #ahch4  ,he died in #ahgi4      
#bbc  ,alcal de ,guadaira2 ,arabic1     
,al-,kal'ah1 the fort1 or castle4  ,a   
name necessarily often repeated in      
,spain1 where the ,goths1 who are so    

proudly remembered1 have left so few    
records of their three hundred  years'  
dominion in the place-names of the      
,peninsula1 and where the ,arab1  at all
 times detested1 is yet remembered in   
the modern names of wellnigh  every     
town1 river1 and headland in ,southern  
,spain1 and in many places  throughout  
the entire ,peninsula4  ,the most       
celebrated of all these  castles is1 of 
course1 ,alcal de ,henares1 the         
birthplace of ,cervantes1  the seat of  
the great university of ,ximenes4  ,this
 ,alcal is known as  that of ,guadaira1 
i4e4 the river of ,aira1 the ,arabic    
,wady al ,aira4  ,the town at the       
present day1 though small1 is a very    
important place1  with some eight       
thousand inhabitants1 and over two      
hundred flour-mills1  and is known as   
the 8oven of ,seville10 ,el horno de    
,sevilla4  ,carmona--the ,roman ,carmo  
and ,arab ,karmanah--with double the    
population1 was  the last stronghold of 
,peter the ,cruel1 and is full of       

historic  associations4    #bbf  ,madoz1
 in his ,diccionario                    
,geografico-estadistico1 published in   
#ahdf1 half a dozen years after the date
 of ,borrow's visit1 says nothing  under
 ,carolina1 ,carlota1 or ,luisiana of   
this supposed ,german  colonization4    
,yet ,carolina and eighty-four          
neighbouring villages form a  most      
interesting district1 known as the      
,nuevas poblaciones de ,sierra  ,morena1
 especially exempted from taxation and  
conscription on their  foundation or    
incorporation by ,olavides1 the         
,minister of ,charles ,,iii41 in  #agfh4
  ,it is possible that some ,german     
colonists were introduced at that  time4
  ,among the eighty-five pueblos        
constituting this strange district  is  
the historic ,navas de ,tolosa1 where   
the ,moors were so gloriously  defeated 
in #abab4    #bcj  ,wellington4    #bcb 
,cordova was taken on ,october #a1      
#ahcf4    #bcd  8,look you1 what men    
they were60    #bce;a  #8,the king has  

come1 the king has come1 and disembarked
 at  ,belem4'--,miguelite song4         
#bce;b  ,charles ,v41 or ,carlos        
,quinto1 is the title all too meekly    
accorded even in ,spain to their king   
,charles ,i41 fifth only of ,german     
,karls on the imperial throne1 the ,holy
 ,roman ,emperor4  ,if ,charles himself 
was not unpopular in ,spain1 even though
 he kept his mother ,joanna1 the        
legitimate queen1 under lock and key1   
that he might reign as ,charles the     
,first in ,spain1 his ,germans and his  
,germanism were devoutly hated4  ,the   
next ,carlos who reigned in ,spain1     
correctly styled the ,second1 was       
nearly a fool1 but ,charles ,,iii4 was  
the best and most enlightened of the    
sovereigns of ,spain until the days of  
,alfonso ,,xii4  ,charles ,,iv4         
abdicated  under pressure of ,napoleon  
in #ahjh1 and then ,don ,carlos the     
,pretender  naturally assumed the style 
and title of ,charles the ,fifth4       
#bcf;a  ,see ,introduction4    #bcf;b   

,the ,genoese was presumably referring  
to the sister-in-law of ,don  ,carlos1  
called ,la ,beira4  ,see ,ford1         
,handbook of ,spain1 #ast edit41 p4     
#hbb4    #bci  ,this is not strictly    
accurate4  ,the ,mezquita1 as designed  
by ,abdur  ,rahmn ,i4 in #ghf1 contained
 about #abjj pillars2 when the mosque   
was  enlarged by ,almanzor at the end of
 the tenth century1 the number was      
doubtless increased4  ,yet at the       
present day more than nine hundred are  
still standing in the building1 which   
ranks second as regards area  among the 
churches of ,christendom1 and in        
historic interest is surpassed  only by 
the ,mosque of ,agia ,sofia at          
,constantinople 7see ,burke's ,history  
of ,spain1 vol4 i4 pp4 #acj-acc74       
#bdj;a  ,morocco4    #bdj;b  ,the       
,abencerrages were a family1 or perhaps 
a faction1 that held a  prominent       
position in the ,moorish kingdom of     
,granada for some time before  its fall 
in #adib4  ,the name is said to be      

derived from ,yusuf ben ,cerrg1  the    
head or leader of the family in the time
 of ,mohammed ,,vii41 but  nothing is   
known with any certainty of their       
origin4  ,in the ,guerras  civiles de   
,granada of ,gines ,perez de ,hita1 the 
feuds of the ,abencerrages  with the    
rival family of the ,zegris is an       
important incident1 and                 
,chateaubriand's ,les ,aventures du     
dernier ,abencerages is founded upon    
,hita's work4    #bda;a  ,a haji is a   
man who has made the haj or pilgrimage  
to ,mecca4  ,as a title it is prefixed  
to the name4  ,the ,levantine ,greeks   
who have  made a pilgrimage to          
,jerusalem are also accustomed to use   
the same title1  and their 8,haji       
,michaeli0 or 8,haji ,yanco0 is as      
common a mode of address  as 8,haji     
,ali40  8,haji ,stavros0 in ,about's    
,roi des ,montagnes may be  happily     
remembered4    #bda;b  ,the great city  
of ,negroland is1 ,i presume1 ,khartoum1
 capital of  the ,soudan1 known to our  

fathers as ,nigritia4    #bdb;a  ,philip
 ,,ii41 eldest son of ,carlos ,i4 of    
,spain 7the ,emperor ,charles  ,v471    
married ,mary of ,england the #beth of  
,july1 #aeee4    #bdb;b  ,the ,mystery  
of ,udolpho1 the once celebrated but now
 forgotten  romance of ,mrs4 ,radcliffe 
7#agfd-ahbc74    #bdc;a  8,sir ,george  
of my soul10 i4e4 8,my dear ,sir        
,george40    #bdc;b  ,puente4  ,see ,the
 ,zincali1 part i4 chap4 ix4    #bdc;c  
,see ante1 note on p4 #bce4    #bdf     
,the ,house of the ,inquisition1 or     
,holy ,office4    #bdg  8,what do ,i    
know80    #bdi;a  8,so pretty1 so       
smart40    #bdi;b  ,query1 the ,epistle 
to the ,romans4--,note by ,borrow4      
#bej  ,bad fellows1 the ,french mauvais 
sujets4    #bed;a  ,real1 i4e4 royal1   
the first coin of ,christian ,spain1 as 
opposed to the ,moorish maravedi4  ,the 
first real of which we have any  certain
 knowledge was struck by ,henry ,,ii4 on
 ,may #ae1 #acfi4  ,the value of  the   
real is now about #b;d4  ,english money1

 but as a unit of value and  computation
 it has been officially supplanted since
 #ahgj by the peseta  or franc of #i;d4 
,see ,burke's ,history of ,spain1 vol4  
ii4 pp4  #bha-bhf4    #bed;b  ,carlist  
leaders4    #beg  ,there are at least   
three districts in ,spain known as the  
,sagra3  one in ,alicante1 one in       
,orense1 and another near ,toledo which 
includes #bg  miles by #bd miles of     
country to the north of the city4       
,amongst the  villages included in the  
district are ,yuncler1 ,yunclillos1 and 
,yuncos1  whose names would seem to tell
 of some foreign origin4  ,the origin of
 the  word ,sagra is most uncertain4    
,it was commonly said to be ,sacra      
,cereris1 on account of the abundant    
harvests of the district1 and has  also 
been derived from the ,arab a  a field4 
#beh  ,this was ,don ,vicente ,lopez y  
,portaa1 who was born at ,valencia in   
#aggb1 and died at ,madrid in #ahej4    
,his pictures were as a rule            
allegorical in subject1 and his son1    

,don ,bernardo ,lopez1 was also alive   
at this time1 and died only in #ahgd4   
#bei;a  ,don ,andrs ,borrego1 author of 
,la ,historia de las ,crtes de  ,espaa  
durante el siglo ,,xix4 7#ahhe71 and    
other political works4    #bei;b  ,see  
vol4 ii4 p4 #bdb4    #bfa  ,v4 p4 #agh4 
#bfb  ,not ,cabrera himself1 but his    
subordinate ,zariategui1 an old friend  
and comrade of ,zumalacarregui4  ,this  
was on ,august #aa1 #ahcg4  ,see        
,duncan1  ,the ,english in ,spain1 p4   
#aeb4    #bfc  ,lord ,carnarvon1 of     
course1 would not have endorsed these   
opinions4  ,see ,introduction1 and      
,duncan ub4 sup4 passim4    #bfe;a      
,pera can hardly be said to be near     
,constantinople4  ,it is the  ,franc    
quarter of the city1 separated no doubt 
from ,stambul by the  ,golden ,horn1 and
 undoubtedly very beautiful4  ,buchini  
is hardly a ,greek  name1 and ,antonio  
was no doubt like so many of his kind1  
of ,italian  origin4  ,my own faithful  
,spiro ,varipati was a                  

,constantinopolitan ,greek of  ,cerigo4 
#bfe;b  ,more usually spelt ,syra4      
#bff;a  ,this was possibly the period   
when ,admiral ,duckworth attempted to   
force the passage of the                
,dardanelles4--,note by ,borrow4        
#bff;b  ,cean ,bermudez1 the celebrated 
art critic1 traveller1 and  dilettante1 
the author of numerous works on art and 
architecture1 more  especially in the   
,peninsula1 was born in #agdi1 exiled   
#ahja-h1 and died in  #ahbi4  ,c and z  
before e have the same sound in         
,castilian4    #bfh  ,see ,glossary4    
#bfi;a  ,nowadays he would call himself 
a 4    #bfi;b  8,good luck to thee1     
,antonio60    #bga  ,mr4 ,southern4     
#bgd;a  ,romany chal  gypsy lad4        
#bgd;b  8,good horse6 gypsy horse6  ,let
 me ride thee now40    #bgg;a  ,cad mile
 fille6  ,pronounce ,kaydh meela        
faulthia4    #bgg;b  ,estremeo1 a native
 of the province of ,estremadura4       
#bgi  ,see note on p4 #aic4    #bhj;a   
,the ,colegio de ,nobles ,irlandeses1   

founded in #agib by ,philip  ,,ii41 is  
at present housed in a building of the  
earliest and best period  of the        
,spanish cinquecento1 founded in #aeba  
by ,archbishop ,fonseca as  the ,colegio
 ,mayor del ,apostol ,santiago4  ,it was
 built by ,pedro de  ,ibarra4    #bhj;b 
,as is recorded in the second chapter of
 ,gil ,blas4    #bhb  ,i4e4 el cura1 the
 parish priest2 ,fr4 cur4  ,our 8curate0
 is  rather el vicario2 ,fr4 vicaire4   
#bhd  ,arapiles is the name by which the
 great ,english victory of  ,salamanca  
is known to ,french and ,spanish        
writers4  ,it was fought on ,july  #bb1 
#ahab1 and the news reached ,napoleon on
 the banks of the ,borodino on          
,september #g1 inducing that strange    
hesitation and want of alacrity which   
distinguished his operations next day4  
,the village of ,arapiles is about  four
 miles from ,salamanca4    #bhg  ,savage
 mules4    #bij  8,see the crossing6 see
 what devilish crossing60  ,santiguar is
 to  make the sign of the cross1 to     

cross one's self4  ,santiguo is the     
action of crossing one's self4    #bia  
,as late as #aeba1 ,medina del ,campo   
was one of the richest towns in  ,spain4
  ,long one of the favourite residences 
of the ,castilian court1 it  was an     
emporium1 a granary1 a storehouse1 a    
centre of medival luxury and            
refinement4  ,but the town declared for 
the ,comuneros of ,castile1 and  was so 
pitilessly sacked1 burned1 and ravaged  
by the ,flemish ,cardinal  ,adrian1     
acting for the absent ,charles of       
,hapsburg 7in #aeba71 that it  never    
recovered anything of its ancient       
importance4  ,the name1 half ,arab1     
half ,castilian1 tells of its great     
antiquity4  ,to-day it is known only as 
a railway station6    #bib  8,carajo1   
what is this80    #bic;a  ,we have      
adopted in ,english the ,portuguese form
 ,douro1 which gave  the title of       
,marquis to our great duke 4 4 4 of     
,ciudad ,rodrigo1 as the  ,spaniards    
prefer to call him4    #bic;b           

,madhouse4    #bic;c  8,may the ,virgin 
protect you1 sir30 lit4 8,may you go    
with the  ,virgin40    #bic;d           
,valladolid1 like so many place-names1  
not only in southern1 but  in central   
,spain1 is ,arabic1 ,balad al ,walid1   
8the land of ,walid10 the  caliph in    
whose reign the ,peninsula was overrun  
by the ,moslems4  ,the more  ancient    
name of ,pincia is lost4    #bie  ,a    
friend and comrade of ,zumalacarregui1  
who came into notice after  the death of
 the greater leader in ,june1 #ahce4    
#bif;a  ,the ,colegio de ,ingleses was  
endowed by ,sir ,francis ,englefield1  a
 partisan of ,mary ,queen of ,scots1 who
 came to ,spain after her execution4    
,philip ,,ii4 granted certain privileges
 to the students in #aeij4  ,the  number
 of students at the present day is about
 #de4    #bif;b  ,the ,celegio de       
,escoceses was founded only in #agij4   
#bih  ,i4e4 uncontaminated with the     
black blood of ,moorish or ,jewish      
converts2 possibly also referring to the

 use of 8,new ,castilian0 for           
8,gitano40  ,see ,the ,zincali1 part i4 
chap4 i4    #bii  ,temp4 ,elizabeth and 
,james ,i4    #cjj;a  ,celebrated also  
for the great victory of ,ferdinand of  
,aragon over  ,alfonso the ,african of  
,portugal 7,february1 #adgf71 by which  
the succession  of ,isabella to the     
crown of ,castile was assured1 and the  
pretension of  her niece ,juana la      
,beltraneja for ever put an end to4     
#cjj;b  ,alcayde1 the ,arabic governor  
of a castle1 or fortress1 is  commonly  
used in modern ,spanish for a jailer1 a 
governor of a prison2 the  somewhat     
similar word1 alcalde1 also an ,arabic  
word1 meant1 and still  means1 the mayor
 of a town4    #cjc  ,it was at ,dueas  
that ,ferdinand and ,isabella held their
 little  court immediately after their  
marriage in ,october1 #adfi4    #cjd;a  
,government requisition4  ,see ante1 p4 
#bfa4    #cjd;b  ,the officers1 no      
doubt1 of the ,spanish ,legion and      
,contingent4  ,see ,introduction4       

#cjd;c  8,hold hard1 you gypsy fellows6 
you forget that you are soldiers1  and  
no longer swapping horses in a fair40   
#cje;a  ,see note on p4 #abj4    #cje;b 
,that is1 gold onzas4    #cji;a  ,the   
,roman ,pallantia2 the seat of the first
 university in ,castile1  transferred in
 #abci to the more celebrated city of   
,salamanca4    #cji;b  ,the cathedral   
was commenced in #acba1 and finished    
about two  hundred years later4  ,as it 
now stands1 the exterior is             
unsatisfactory2  the interior is most   
picturesque1 and full of remarkable     
monuments1  including the tomb of the   
wicked ,queen ,urraca1 who died in      
#aabf4    #caj;a  ,these 8paintings of  
,murillo0 are imaginary4  ,there are    
some good  pictures now in the ,sala    
capitular--one by ,ribera1 one by       
,zurbaran1 and  a third by ,mateo       
,cerezo4  ,the paintings in the church  
itself are  unimportant1 and are rather 
,german than ,spanish in character4     
#caj;b  ,the ,sierra de ,oca1 to the    

east of ,burgos1 about sixty miles as   
the crow flies to the north-east of     
,palencia4    #caa  ,possibly ,cisneros 
or ,calzada4  ,sahagun1 which lies just 
halfway  between ,palencia and ,leon on 
the high-road1 is rather a small town   
than a  large village1 and1 though shorn
 of all its former splendour1 would have
  afforded the travellers better        
quarters4    #cab  ,see ,introduction4  
#cac  ,a familiar ,spanish locution--of 
which the meaning is sufficiently       
obvious--derived originally1 no doubt1  
from the game of chess1 a game of       
oriental origin1 and no doubt introduced
 into ,spain by the ,arabs4  ,roque  is 
the rook or castle2 ,rey1 of course1 the
 king4    #cae  ,the name of ,leon has  
nothing to do with lions1 but is a      
corruption  of legionis1 or the city of 
the #gth ,legion1 quartered here by     
,augustus  to defend the ,cantabrian    
frontier4  ,the city is full of historic
  interest1 and bears the records of the
 conquerors of many ages and  nations4  

,the cathedral referred to by ,borrow   
was finished about #acjj1 after having  
been at least a hundred years           
a-building1 and is in the early pointed 
style of what we call ,gothic1 but the  
,spaniards ,tudesque4  ,the west front  
and the painted glass windows in the    
aisles are of unrivalled beauty4    ,the
 church of ,san ,isidoro1 with the tombs
 of that great metropolitan and  of     
,alfonso el ,batallador1 of inferior    
sthetic interest1 is even more          
attractive to the antiquary4    #cah    
,astorga is an old ,roman town1         
,asturica ,augusta1 established  after  
the ,cantabrian war 7,b4,c4 #be71 when  
the southern ,astures first  became     
subject to ,rome4  ,but a far more      
ancient origin is claimed for the  city1
 which was traditionally founded by     
,astur1 the son of ,memnon 7see  ,silius
 ,italicus1 iii4 #ccd2 ,martial1 xiv4   
#aii74  ,the surrounding country  of the
 ,astures was celebrated at once for the
 riches of its gold-mines  and for its  

breed of horses1 whence the ,latin      
,asturco 7see ,petron41  ,sat41 #hf1 and
 ,seneca1 ,ep41 #hg2 ,pliny1 viii4 #db1 
s4 #fg74    #cai  ,borrow has it ,corua1
 but it should be either ,la ,corua1 if 
written in ,spanish1 or ,corunna1 if    
written in ,english4  ,our ancestors1   
who had good reason to know the place1  
called it ,the ,groyne1 but it would  be
 pedantic to so call it now4    #cba    
,the origin of the ,maragatos has never 
been ascertained4  ,some  consider them 
to be a remnant of the ,celtiberians1   
others of the  ,visigoths2 most1        
however1 prefer a ,bedouin or caravan   
descent4  ,it is in  vain to question   
these ignorant carriers as to their     
history or origin1  for1 like the       
gypsies1 they have no traditions and    
know nothing4  ,arrieros1 at all events1
 they are1 and that word1 in common with
 so  many others relating to the barb   
and carrier-caravan craft1 is ,arabic1  
and proves whence the system and science
 were derived by ,spaniards4  ,where    

,george ,borrow and ,richard ,ford are  
so uncertain1 it is assuredly           
unbecoming to dogmatize4  ,mariana 7vol4
 i4 lib4 vii4 cap4 #g71 speaking of     
,king ,mauregato1 who is supposed1 as   
much from his name as from anything     
else1 to have been an illegitimate son  
of ,alfonso ,i4 by a ,moorish lady1     
seeks to trace the origin of the        
,maragatos as being more especially the 
subjects of ,mauregato1 but it is rather
 an extravagant fancy than an           
explanation4    ,monsieur ,francisque   
,michel1 in his ,races ,maudites de la  
,france et de  l',espagne 7,paris1      
#ahdg71 has nothing to say of these     
,maragatos1 though  he notices 7ii4     
#da-dd7 a smaller tribe1 the ,vaqueros1 
of the  neighbouring ,asturias1 whose   
origin is also enveloped in mystery4    
,see ,de  ,rochas1 ,les ,parias de      
,france et l',espagne1 p4 #abj4  ,the   
,cagots were  also found in northwest   
,spain as well as in ,france1 but not1  
as far as we  know1 to the west of      

,guipuzcoa4  ,for an account of these   
,cagots and the  various etymologies    
that have been suggested for their      
names1 see ,de  ,rochas and ,f4 ,michel1
 ubi supra1 tom4 i4 ch4 i4    #cbb  ,a  
transliteration of the old ,spanish     
,barrete1 an old kind of  helmet1 then1 
generally1 a cap4    #cbc  ,a mute is   
the offspring of a stallion and a       
she-ass1 a mule of a  jackass and a     
mare4    #cbd;a  ,founded in #adga1 on  
the site of one more ancient4    #cbd;b 
,the name of this celebrated arriero was
 ,pedro ,mato2 the statue  is of wood4  
#cbg;a  ,the word ,gog is not ,hebrew1  
and1 according to ,renan and ,kubel     
7,volkert1 p4 #fc71 is 8mountain10 and  
,magog is 8great mountain40  ,maha1     
,sanskrit1 and ,koh or ,goh1 ,persian4  
,the legends concerning  ,gog and ,magog
 are very numerous1 and extend over many
 parts of ,europe1  ,asia1 and even     
,africa4    #cbg;b  8,the place of the  
apples40    #cbi  ,caballero4  ,as a    
mode of address in common life1         

equivalent  merely to sir4    #cca;a  ,a
 ,galician or ,portuguese1 but not a    
,spanish word1 usually spelt  coro4     
,the ,spanish equivalent is ciervo4     
#cca;b  ,there is a delightful          
translation of ,theocritus1 who by the  
way  described the scenery of ,sicily   
rather than of ,greece1 into ,english   
verse  by ,c4 ,s4 ,calverley1 published 
in #ahfi4    #ccc  ,bembibre lies on the
 southern confines of the district of   
,el  ,vierzo1 one of the most           
interesting and least explored parts of 
the  ,peninsula1 the ,switzerland of    
,leon1 a district of ,alpine passes1    
trout  streams1 pleasant meadows1 and   
groves of chestnuts and walnuts4        
,bembibre1 pop4 #ejj1 lies with its old 
castle on the trout-streams ,noceda  and
 ,boeza1 amid green meadows1 gardens1   
and vineyards1 whose wines were  far    
more fatal to ,moore's soldiers than the
 ,french sabres4  ,so much for          
,bembibre--bene bibere4  ,ponferrada    
7,interamnium ,flavium71 which is not   

entered1 rises to the left on the       
confluence of the ,sil and ,boeza4  ,the
  bridge 7,pons-ferrata7 was built in   
the eleventh century1 for the  passage  
of pilgrims to ,compostella1 who took   
the direct route along the  ,sil by ,val
 de ,orras and ,orense4  ,the town      
afterwards belonged to the  ,templars1  
and was protected by the miraculous     
image of the ,virgin1 which  was found  
in an oak1 and hence is called ,nuestra 
,seora de la ,encina2  it is still the  
,patroness of the ,vierzo 7,murray's    
,handbook of ,spain1  #ast edit4 p4     
#eie74    ,the ,vierzo extends about #aj
 leagues east and west by #h north and  
south4  ,this amphitheatre is shut out  
from the world by lofty snow-capped     
mountains1 raised1 as it were1 by the   
hand of some genii to enclose a  simple 
valley of ,rasselas4  ,the great        
,asturian chain slopes from             
,leitariegos to the south-west1 parting 
into two offshoots2 that of ,el  ,puerto
 de ,rabanal1 and ,fuencebadon 7,fons   

,sabatonis7 constitute the east         
barrier1 and the other1 running by the  
,puertos de ,cebrero and ,aguiar1  forms
 the frontier2 while to the south the   
chains of the ,sierras de  ,segundera1  
,sanabria1 and ,cabrera complete the    
base of the triangle4  ,thus  hemmed in 
by a natural circumvallation1 the       
concavity must be descended  into from  
whatever side it be approached2 this    
crater1 no doubt1 was once  a large     
lake1 the waters of which have burst a  
way out1 passing through  the narrow    
gorge of the ,sil by ,val de ,orras1    
just as the ,elbe forms the  only spout 
or outlet to hill-walled-in ,bohemia1   
the kettle-land of  ,germany 7,ibid41 p4
 #eig74    #ccg;a  ,rendered by ,borrow 
rabble2 the ,french canaille2 ,ital4    
canaglia1 a pack of dogs--canes4        
#ccg;b  ,known as ,villafranca del      
,vierzo2 said to have been one of the   
principal halting-places of the ,french 
pilgrims to ,santiago1 hence ,villa     
,francorum2 in any case1 the abode of an

 important colony of monks from  the    
,french abbey of ,cluny4  ,see ,burke's 
,history of ,spain1 vol4 ii4 p4  #fi1   
and ,app4 ,,ii4    #cdj  ,query         
,guerrilleros 7see ,glossary74  ,these  
,miguelets were  originally the         
partisans or followers of the ,infante  
,don ,miguel1 the  absolutist leader in 
the dreary civil war which ravaged      
,portugal from  #ahbc-ahcd4  ,it was    
their custom to escape into ,spain when 
attacked by the  ,constitutional forces 
in ,portugal1 and nothing but ,mr4      
,canning's bold  action in sending an   
,english army to ,lisbon in ,december1  
#ahbf1 prevented  their being utilized  
by both ,spain and ,france for the      
overthrow of ,queen  ,maria in ,portugal
 7see ,alison1 ,history of ,europe1 vol4
 iv4 ch4 xxi4 s4  #ej74  ,but as        
8,miguelets10 part refugees1 part       
rebels1 part brigands1  these bands of  
military ruffians were the terror of the
 frontier  districts of ,spain and      
,portugal for many years after the      

conclusion of  the civil war in         
,portugal4    #cda  ,don ,quixote1 part 
ii4 chap4 ix4    #cdg  ,senhor is the   
,portuguese or ,galician form4  ,borrow 
has now  crossed the frontier4    #cea  
,it is possibly an older language than  
either4  ,it resembles rather  the      
,portuguese than the ,spanish1 and is of
 great interest in many ways4  ,the     
great religious poem of ,alfonso ,x41   
,los ,loores y ,milagros de ,nuestra    
,seora1 written between #abfc and #abhd1
 when the national language was  hardly 
formed1 was written in ,galician1 though
 from the beginning of the  fourteenth  
to the middle of the nineteenth century 
little attention was  paid to the       
literary language4  ,within the last few
 years a species of  provincial revival 
has taken place1 and the following works
 among others  have been published in   
and about the language of ,galicia3 7#a7
 ,d4 ,juan  ,saco ,arce1 ,gramatica     
,gallega 7,lugo1 #ahfh71 with an        
appendix of proverbs  and popular songs2

 7#b7 ,fernandez y ,morales1 ,ensayos   
poeticos1 edited by  ,don ,mariano ,cubi
 y ,soler2 7#c7 ,a4 ,g4 ,besada1        
,historia critica de la  literatura     
gallega 7,la ,corua1 #ahhg72 the works  
of ,manuel ,murgin1 also  published at  
,la ,corua2 ,don ,juan ,cuveiro ,piol's 
,diccionario ,gallego  and ,el habla1   
both published at ,barcelona in #ahgf2  
and1 best of all1  ,don ,manuel ,nuez   
,valladares' ,diccionario               
,gallego-,castillano 7,santiago1        
#ahhd74    #cec  8,i believe it60       
#cei  ,this is a curious blunder4       
,lucus ,augusti was not only never      
capital of ,roman ,spain1 but the       
capital only of ,northern ,gallaecia1 or
  ,galicia2 as ,bracara ,augusta1 or    
,braga1 was the chief town and seat of a
  ,conventus ,juridicus of southern     
,galicia1 the ,minho being the boundary 
of the northern and southern divisions  
of the province4    ,roman ,spain was at
 no time a province1 but included1 from 
,b4,c4 #bje to  ,a4,d4 #cbe1 many       

provinces1 each with its own provincial 
capital4  ,in the  division of the      
,roman world by ,constantine1 ,hispania 
first became an  administrative unit as 
a diocese in the ,prefecture of ,gaul1  
with its  capital at ,hispalis or       
,seville1 the residence of the ,imperial
 ,vicar  7see ,burke's ,history of      
,spain1 vol4 i4 pp4 #ca1 #ce1 #cf74     
#cfj  8,woe is me1 ,o ,god60    #cfa    
,combats with young bulls1 usually by   
amateur fighters4  ,although  the       
animals are immature1 and the tips of   
their horns1 moreover1 sawn off  to make
 the sport less dangerous1 accidents are
 far more common than in  the more      
serious corridas1 where the             
professionals take no step without  due 
deliberation and secundum artem4        
,novillo1 of course1 means only  a young
 bull2 but in common parlance in ,spain 
los toros means  necessarily a serious  
bull-fight1 and los novillos an amateur 
exhibition4    #cfc  ,see note on p4    
#cdj4    #cfe  ,span4 anis 7see         

,glossary74    #cff;a  ,an onza 7see    
,glossary74    #cff;b  ,the real word1  
of which this is a modification1 is     
,carajo--a  word which1 used as an      
adjective1 represents the ,english      
8bloody10 and  used as a substantive1   
something yet more gross4  ,in decent   
society the  first syllable is          
considered quite strong enough as an    
expletive1 and1  modified as ,caramba1  
may even fall from fair lips4    #cff;c 
,at ,seville ,borrow seems to have been 
known as ,el brujo 7v4 p4  #agh74       
#cfh  ,on the north shore of this bay is
 built the town of ,el ,ferrol 7el      
farol  the lighthouse71 daily growing in
 importance as the great naval  arsenal 
of ,spain4    #cfi;a  ,more commonly    
written puchero  a glazed earthenware   
pot4  ,but  it is the contents rather   
than the pot that is usually signified1 
just  as in the case of the olla1 the   
round pot1 whose savoury contents are   
spoken of throughout southern ,spain as 
an olla1 and in ,england as olla        

podrida4    #cfi;b  ,santiago de        
,compostella 7see note on p4 #aic74  ,as
 usual ,i  preserve the author's        
original spelling1 though ,st4 ,james is
 a purely  fanciful name4  ,the ,holy   
,place is known in common ,spanish      
parlance as  ,santiago1 in classical    
,english more usually as ,compostella4  
#cgj;a  ,probably ,norwich4    #cgj;b   
,see ,wild ,wales1 chap4 xxiv4    #cge  
,for the etymology of ,guadalete1 and   
many references to the river  and to the
 battle that is said to have been fought
 on its banks between  the invading     
,arabs and ,roderic1 8the last of the   
,goths10 see ,burke's  ,history of      
,spain1 vol4 i4 pp4 #aaj1 #aaa1 and     
notes4    ,borrow1 in fact1 followed    
almost exactly the line of the          
celebrated  retreat of ,sir ,john       
,moore1 as may be seen by referring to  
the map4  ,moore1 leaving the plain     
country1 and provoked by the ignorant   
taunts of  ,frere to abandon his own    
plan of marching in safety south-west   

into  ,portugal1 found himself on the   
#bhth of ,december1 #ahjh1 at           
,benavente2 on  the #bith1 at ,astorga2 
on the #cast1 at ,villafranca del       
,vierzo2 and thence1  closely pressed   
day by day by the superior forces of    
,soult1 he passed  through ,bembibre1   
,cacabelos1 ,herrerias1 ,nogales1 to    
,lugo1 whence1 by way  of ,betanzos1 he 
arrived on the #aath of ,january at     
,corunna4  ,the horrors  of that winter 
march over the frozen mountains will    
never fully be known2  they are         
forgotten in the glorious1 if bootless1 
victory on the  sea-coast1 and the      
heroic death of ,moore4  ,the most      
authoritative account  of ,sir ,john    
,moore's retreat1 and of the battle of  
,corunna1 is to be found  in the first  
volume of ,napier's ,peninsular ,war2   
but the raciest is  certainly that in   
the first edition of ,murray's ,handbook
 of ,spain1 by  ,richard ,ford4    #cgh 
,a shepherd1 we are told1 watching his  
flock in a wild mountain  district in   

,galicia1 was astonished at the         
appearance of a supernatural  light4    
,the ,bishop of ,iria ,flavia 7,padron7 
was consulted4  ,the place so  divinely 
illuminated was carefully searched1 and 
in a marble sarcophagus1  the body of   
,saint ,james the ,greater was revealed 
to the faithful  investigators4  ,the   
king1 overjoyed at the discovery1 at    
once erected  upon the ground thus      
consecrated a church or chapel dedicated
 to the  apostle--the forerunner of the 
noble cathedral of ,santiago de         
,compostella1  and from the first1 the  
favourite resort of the pilgrims of     
,christian  ,europe4  ,for it was not   
only a relic1 but a legend that had been
  discovered by the pious doctors of the
 church4    ,saint ,james1 it was said1 
had certainly preached and taught in    
,spain  during his lifetime4  ,his body1
 after his martyrdom at ,jerusalem in   
the  year of ,christ #db1 had been      
placed by his disciples on board a ship1
 by  which it was conveyed to the coast 

of his beloved ,spain1 miraculously     
landed in ,galicia1 and forgotten for   
eight hundred years1 until the time  was
 accomplished when it should be revealed
 to the devoted subjects of  ,king      
,alfonso the ,chaste4  ,the date of the 
discovery of the precious  remains is   
given by ,ferreras as #hjh1 by ,morales 
as #hce4  ,but as it was  ,charlemagne  
who obtained from ,leo ,,iii4 the       
necessary permission or  faculty to     
remove the ,episcopal ,see of ,iria     
,flavia to the new town of              
,compostella1 the discovery or invention
 must have taken place at least  before 
#had1 the year of the death of the      
emperor4  ,whatever may have been  the  
actual date of its first establishment2 
the mean church with mud  walls soon    
gave place to a noble cathedral1 which  
was finished by the  year #hgd1         
consecrated in #hii1 and destroyed by   
the ,arabs under ,almanzor1  nigh upon a
 hundred years afterwards1 in #iig4     
,see also ,murray's  ,handbook of       

,spain1 #ast edit41 p4 #ffj1 ,santiago4 
#chj  ,or ,jet-ery4  ,azabache is jet or
 anthracite1 of which a great  quantity 
is found in the ,asturias4  ,the        
word--of ,arabic origin--is also  used  
figuratively for blackness or darkness  
generally in modern ,spanish4    #chb;a 
8,oh1 my ,god1 it is the gentleman60    
#chb;b  ,from the ,german betteln1 to   
beg4    #chd  ,may1 #ahbc4    #chf      
,meiga is not a substantive either in   
,spanish or ,portuguese  7though it is  
in ,galician71 but the feminine of the  
adjective meigo1 or  mego1 signifying   
8kind10 8gentle40  ,haxweib is a form of
 the ,german  ,hexe ,weib1 a witch or   
female wizard4    #chi  ,or ,el ,padron 
7,iria ,flavia71 the ancient seat of the
 bishopric1  transferred to the more    
sacred ,santiago de ,compostella before 
the year  #had4    #cic  ,french1 sur le
 tapis4    #cid  ,more correctly1       
,caldas de ,reyes4    #cie  ,branches of
 vines supported on or festooned from   
stakes4  ,borrow  uses the word for the 

stakes themselves4  ,the dictionary of  
the ,spanish  ,academy has it1 8,la vid 
que se levanta  lo alto y se extiende   
mucho en  vstagos10 and derives the word
 from the ,arabic par  extension or     
spreading4    #cig  8,what folly6 what  
rascality60    #cii  ,the names of the  
ambassadors or envoys actually sent by  
,king ,henry  ,,iii4 to ,tamerlane were1
 in #acii1 ,pelayo ,gomez de ,sotomayor 
and ,herman  ,sanchez de ,palazuelos1   
and on the second mission in #adjc1 ,don
 ,alfonso de  ,santa ,maria and         
,gonzalez de ,clavijo1 whose account of 
the voyage of the  envoys has been      
published both in ,spanish and ,english1
 and is one of the  earliest and most   
interesting books of travel in the      
world4    #dja;a  ,lord ,cobham's       
expedition in #agai2 the town was taken 
on ,october  #ba4  ,vigo ,street1 in    
,london1 is called after the ,spanish   
port1 in memory  of the ,duke of        
,ormond's capture of the plate ships in 
the bay in #agjb4  ,vigo was also       

captured by the ,english under ,drake in
 #aehe and in #aehi4    #dja;b  ,see the
 ,glossary1 s4v4 ,cura4