file :i* includes ! orig9al             
illu/rations4       ,see #cdijc-;h4htm  
or #cdijc-;h4zip3                       
7https3_/_/www4gut5b]g4org_/ca*e_/epub_/
#cdijc_/pg#cdijc-;images4html7       or 
7https3_/_/www4gut5b]g4org_/files_/#cdij
c_/cdijc-;h4zip7   ,transcrib]'s note3  
,text enclos$ by equal signs is 9 bold  
face 7bold74        ,a li/ ( correct$   
pr9t]'s errors & inconsi/5cies c        
be f\nd at ! end ( ! text4      ,!      
,arti/ic ,crafts ,s]ies ( ,te*nical     
,h&books ,edit$ by ,w4 ,r4 ,le?aby      
,,dress ,,design   ,illu/ration3 ,a     
,long-tra9$ ,musl9 ,dress4 ,ab\t #ahjj4 
,,dress ,,design  ,an ,acc\nt ( ,co/ume 
= ,arti/s  ,dressmak]s  by  ,,talbot    
,,hughes  ,illu/rat$ by ! ,au?or f ,old 
,examples 4 ,toge!r ) #ce ,pages (      
,half-,tone ,illu/rations        ,london
 ,sir ,isaac ,pitman  ,sons1 ,ltd4 ,ba?1
 ,melb\rne1 ,toronto1 & ,new ,york      
,repr9t$ #aibj     ,,g5]al ,,preface    
,,to ,,! ,,s]ies   ,9 issu+ ?is volume (
 a s]ies ( ,h&books on ! ,arti/ic       

,crafts1 x w be well to /ate :at are our
 g5]al aims4  ,9 ! fir/ place1 we wi% to
 provide tru/wor?y text-books ( work%op 
practice1 f ! po9ts ( view ( exp]ts :o h
 critically exam9$ ! me?ods curr5t 9 !  
%ops1 & putt+ aside va9 survivals1 are  
prep>$ to say :at is good workman%ip1 & 
to set up a /&>d ( quality 9 ! crafts   
:i* are m especially associat$ ) design4
 ,secondly1 9 do+ ?is1 we hope to treat 
design itself z an ess5tial "p ( good   
workman%ip4 ,dur+ ! la/ c5tury mo/ ( !  
arts1 save pa9t+ & sculpture ( an       
academic k9d1 7 little consid]$1 & !re 0
 a t5d5cy to look on design z a m]e     
matt] ( appe>ance4 ,su* ornam5tation z  
!re 0 0 usually obta9$ by foll[+ 9 a    
me*anical way a draw+ provid$ by an     
arti/ :o (t5 knew little ( ! te*nical   
processes involv$ 9 production4 ,) !    
critical att5tion giv5 to ! crafts by   
,rusk9 & ,morris1 x came to be se5 t x 0
 impossible to deta* design f craft 9   
?is way1 & t1 9 ! wide/ s5se1 true      
design is an insep>able elem5t ( good   

quality1 involv+ z x does ! selection ( 
good & suitable mat]ial1 contrivance =  
special purpose1 exp]t workman%ip1 prop]
 f9i% & s on1 f> m ?an m]e ornam5t1 &   
inde$1 t ornam5tation itself 0 r an     
exub]ance ( f9e workman%ip ?an a matt] (
 m]ely ab/ract l9es4 ,workman%ip :5     
sep>at$ by too wide a gulf f fre%       
?\ght--t is1 f design--inevitably       
decays1 &1 on ! o!r h&1 ornam5tation1   
divorc$ f workman%ip1 is necess>ily     
unreal1 & quickly falls into            
affectation4 ,prop] ornam5tation may be 
def9$ z a language address$ to ! eye2 x 
is pleasant ?\ght express$ 9 ! spee* ( !
 tool4  ,9 ! ?ird place1 we w\ld h ?is  
s]ies put arti/ic craftsman%ip be=e p z 
furni%+ reasonable occupations = ^? :o  
w\ld ga9 a livelihood4 ,al?\gh )9 !     
b\nds ( academic art1 ! competition1 (  
its k9d1 is s acute t only a v few p]   
c5t4 c fairly hope to succe$ z pa9t]s & 
sculptors2 yet1 z arti/ic craftsm51 !re 
is e probability t ne>ly e "o :o w\ld   
pass ?r\gh a suffici5t p]iod (          

appr5tice%ip to workman%ip & design w\ld
 rea* a measure ( success4  ,9 ! bl5d+ (
 h&work & ?\ght 9 su* arts z we propose 
to deal )1 happy c>e]s may be f\nd z f> 
remov$ f ! dre>y r\t9e ( hack lab\r1 z f
 ! t]rible unc]ta9ty ( academic art4 ,x 
is desirable 9 e way t m5 ( good        
education %\ld be br\ght back into !    
productive crafts3 !re are m ?an en\gh (
 u 9 ! city1 & x is probable t m        
consid]ation w be giv5 9 ?is c5tury ?an 
9 ! la/ to ,design & ,workman%ip4       
99       99       99       99       99  
,! design+ & mak+ ( ,co/ume is a        
craft--sometimes arti/ic--) :i* we are  
all m or less conc]n$4 ,x is also1 9 its
 own way1 "o ( ! liv+ arts1 t is1 x is  
/ill c>ri$ =w>d exp]im5tally by exp]ts  
directly atta*$ to ! bus9ess4 ,x has n  
yet be5 subject$ to rules ( good ta/e   
=mulat$ by ,academies & ,univ]sities2 b 
:5 ,inigo ,jones1 ! great ar*itect1 0   
ask$ to make "s designs = fancy dress1  
he bas$ !m on ! ,five ,ord]s (          
,ar*itecture1 & pond]\s fancies !y 74   

,if we look = ! ma9 /em ( pr9ciple on   
:i* mod]n ,co/ume develops1 we seem to  
f9d x 9 ! desire = fre%ness1 = ! clean1 
! uncru%$1 & ! p]fectly fitt$ & drap$4  
,probably a mod]n lady's ideal w\ld be  
to we> a dress once1 & !n burn x4  ,a   
correlative ( ! ideal ( fre%ness is !   
delight 9 p]fect cut1 & ! rapidly *ang+ 
fa%ions are d\btless condition$ 9 "p by 
! desire = ! new & unsulli$4 ,novelty is
 a gu>antee ( newness4  ,9 su* ephem]al 
productions x w\ld be va9 to seek =     
c]ta9 f9e types ( excell5ce :i* 7 once  
common :5 dresses 7 n s lightly ca/     
aside4 ,s x is necess>y t we %\ld und]/&
 :at ! rul+ pr9ciple is1 = x is "o :i* w
 n be set aside at ! bidd+ ( well-mean+ 
re=m]s4 ,i w only v5ture to say t x w\ld
 be desirable to make ! attempt to      
sep>ate 9 "s degree ! m con/ant elem5ts 
( dress f ^? :i* are m v>iable4 ,x w    
seem a pity to m ?an outsid]s t a       
well-dress$ p]son ne$ we> s little :i*  
des]ves to h be5 made by human h&s1 &   
no?+ :i* des]ves to be pres]v$4 ,f9e    

laces & jewels are all[$ to be          
antique--c\ld n ! circle ( su* ?+s be a 
little broad5$8 ,a prop]ly groom$ man   
c>ries ab\t on him lit]ally no?+ wor?   
look+ at4 ,we might surely look = a     
wat*-*a9 ) "s delicacy ( h&iwork--some?+
 beyond me*anical r$uctions ( iron      
cables4 ,f9e buttons might conceivably  
be made to g ) ! /uds1 or be made (     
cry/al1 ame?y/1 & silv] or gold4 ,wom5  
might all[ ( ! transf] ( f9e embroid]$  
applications f "o dress to ano!r1 or    
make m use ( clasps & ! l4 ,i am        
confid5t t :5 x is po9t$ out1 x w be    
felt z a %ortcom+ t no "p ( a f9e lady's
 dress ne$ n[ be too good to ?r[ away4  
,al?\gh ! pres5t volume is ca/ into ! =m
 ( a hi/ory1 x is also int5d$ to be a   
book ( sugge/ions2 & ! hope is held t   
mod]n dressmak]s may ref] to x z mu* z1 
or m ?an1 ^? :o are int]e/$ 9 dress f ! 
hi/orical po9t ( view4  ,9 any case !   
au?or's accurate k ( ! facts1 & 8 _m    
bright sket*es--:i* are (t5 drawn f     
examples 9 8 own rem>kable              

collection--make ! pres5t volume an     
admirable h&book ( ,engli% ,co/ume4 ,! m
 te*nical patt]ns :i* are includ$ among/
 ! illu/rations w be f\nd mo/ valuable  
to all :o wi% to g deep] ?an ! fir/     
glance reveals4                         
,w4 ,r4 ,,le?aby4     #aiac4            
,,cont5ts                               
,,page     ,,g5]al ,,preface ,,to ,,!   
,,s]ies                                 
xi      ,preface                        
xiv      ,,li/ ,,( ,,plates             
xxiii      ,,introduction               
#cc      ,,*apt] ,i      ,prehi/oric    
,dress--,female                         
#dj     ,prehi/oric ,dress--,male       
#da      ,,*apt] ,,ii      ,!           
,developm5t ( ,co/ume to ! ,t5?         
,c5tury--,female           #de     ,!   
,developm5t ( ,co/ume to ! ,t5?         
,c5tury--,male             #di          
,,*apt] ,,iii      ,t5? to ! ,fifte5?   
,c5tury--,female                        
#eg     ,t5? to ! ,fifte5?              
,c5tury--,male                          

#ga      ,,*apt] ,,iv      ,fifte5?     
,c5tury--,female                        
#hd     ,fifte5? ,c5tury--,male         
#ib      ,,*apt] ,v      ,sixte5?       
,c5tury4 ,"* ( ,trimm+s                 
#aji     ,sixte5? ,c5tury4 ,h5ry        
,,viii--,female                         
#aac     ,sixte5? ,c5tury4 ,h5ry        
,,viii--,male                           
#aah     ,sixte5? ,c5tury4 ,! ,reigns ( 
,edw>d ,,vi & ,m>y--,female      #abd   
,sixte5? ,c5tury4 ,! ,reigns ( ,edw>d   
,,vi & ,m>y--,male        #abi          
,sixte5? ,c5tury4 ,elizabe?--,female    
#acc     ,sixte5? ,c5tury4              
,elizabe?--,male                        
#aci      ,,*apt] ,,vi      ,! ,"* (    
,trimm+s ?r\gh ! ,sev5te5? ,c5tury      
#adb     ,james ,i                      
#adb     ,*>les ,i                      
#adc     ,! ,commonweal?                
#ade     ,*>les ,,ii                    
#ade     ,james ,,ii & ,william & ,m>y  
#adf     ,sev5te5? ,c5tury4 ,james      
,i--,female                             

#adg     ,sev5te5? ,c5tury4 ,james      
,i--,male                               
#aej     ,sev5te5? ,c5tury4 ,*>les      
,i--,female                             
#aed     ,sev5te5? ,c5tury4 ,*>les      
,i--,male                               
#afj     ,sev5te5? ,c5tury4 ,!          
,commonweal?--,male & ,female           
#afh     ,sev5te5? ,c5tury4 ,*>les      
,,ii--,female                           
#afi     ,sev5te5? ,c5tury4 ,*>les      
,,ii--,male                             
#agd     ,sev5te5? ,c5tury4 ,james      
,,ii--,female                           
#agh     ,sev5te5? ,c5tury4 ,james      
,,ii--,male                             
#ahj     ,sev5te5? ,c5tury4 ,william &  
,m>y--,female                    #ahd   
,sev5te5? ,c5tury4 ,william &           
,m>y--,male                      #ahf   
,,*apt] ,,vii      ,! ,"* ( ,decoration 
& ,trimm+s ( !       ,eighte5? ,c5tury  
#aij     ,eighte5? ,c5tury4             
,anne--,female                          
#aic     ,eighte5? ,c5tury4 ,anne--,male

                                   #aih 
,eighte5? ,c5tury4 ,george ,i--,female  
#bja     ,eighte5? ,c5tury4 ,george     
,i--,male                               
#bjg     ,eighte5? ,c5tury4 ,george     
,,ii--,female                           
#baa     ,eighte5? ,c5tury4 ,george     
,,ii--,male                             
#bad     ,eighte5? ,c5tury4 ,george     
,,iii to #ahjj--;,female                
#bag     ,eighte5? ,c5tury4 ,george     
,,iii to #ahjj--,male                   
#bca      ,,*apt] ,,viii      ,"* (     
,trimm+s ( ! ,n9ete5? ,c5tury           
#bcg     ,n9ete5? ,c5tury4 ,george      
,,iii--,female                          
#bda     ,n9ete5? ,c5tury4 ,george      
,,iii--,male                            
#bdf     ,n9ete5? ,c5tury4 ,george      
,,iv--,female                           
#bdh     ,n9ete5? ,c5tury4 ,george ,,iv1
 #ahbj-cj--,male                        
#bed     ,n9ete5? ,c5tury4 ,william     
,,iv--,female                           
#beh     ,n9ete5? ,c5tury4 ,william     

,,iv--,male                             
#bfc     ,n9ete5? ,c5tury4              
,victoria--,female                      
#bfd     ,n9ete5? ,c5tury4              
,victoria--,male                        
#bgc      ,,patt]ns ,,( ,,v>i\s ,,reigns
 ,,f ,,antique ,,co/ume                 
#bgf      ,,patt]ns ,,to ,,scale        
#bhc      ,,patt]ns ,,to ,,scale1       
,,detail$ ,,li/                         
#cec      ,,index                       
#cei     ,,li/ ,,( ,,descriptive ,,l9es 
,,to ,,! ,,plates       ,,frontispiece  
,fac+ ,title       ,a ,long-tra9$ ,musl9
 ,dress1 ab\t #ahjj4      ,,plate ,i    
,fac+ p4 #ci       ,boots & ,%oes f !   
,f\rte5? to ,n9ete5? ,c5tury4           
,,plate ,,ii                            
#db       ,a4 ,elizabe?an ,robe 9 ,plu%1
 #aehe-afje4       ,b4 ,elizabe?an ,robe
 9 ,silk ,brocade1 #aefe-he4       ,c4  
,elizabe?an ,male ,robe 9 ,velvet       
,brocade1 #aehj-afae4       ,d4         
,back-piece ( ,elizabe?an ,d\blet 9     
,embroid]$ ,l951 #aehj-afje4            

,,plate ,,iii                           
#ee       ,a4 ,elizabe?an ,jump 7or     
,jacket71 ab\t #afjj4       ,b4         
,portrait ( ,lady 9 ,embroid]$ ,co/ume1 
betwe5 #afbj & #afdj4      ,,plate ,,iv 
#eh       ,c4 ,y\?'s ,jacket ( ,l95     
embroid]$ 9 ,wor/$1 #afce-fe4       ,d4 
,l95 ,male ,jacket embroid]$ ) ,gold &  
,silk1 #afjj-dj4      ,,plate ,v        
#ga       ,a4 ,j]k9--,p]iod ,james ,i4  
,b4 ,lady's ,bodice ( ,sla%$ & ,v&yk$   
,sat91 #afce-ej4       ,c4 ,j]k9 (      
,embroid]$ ,l951 #afcj-fj4       ,d4    
,j]k9 ( ,embroid]$ ,l951 #aehj-afce4    
,,plate ,,vi                            
#gd       ,a4 ,coll> & ,cuffs set )     
,lace1 #afjj-cj4       ,b4 ,embroid]$   
,lea!r ,j]k91 #afbj-afdj4       ,c4 ,top
 ( ,/ock+1 ,embroid]$ ,l951 #afbe-ej4   
,,plate ,,vii                           
#hg       ,a4 ,h]ald's ,coat1 ,embroid]$
 ,velvet & ,silk1              ,fir/    
,half ,sev5te5? ,c5tury4       ,b4      
,lady's ,bodice ( ,black ,velvet1       
#afcj-fj4       ,c4 ,black ,silk ,j]k91 

#afdj-ej4      ,,plate ,,viii           
#ij       ,a4 ,?ree ,suits--,p]iod      
,*>les ,,ii4       ,b4                  
,c4                           ,,plate   
,,viiia                                 
#ajc       ,a4 ,suit ( ,embroid]$ ,silk1
 #afaj-cj4       ,b4 ,?ree ,sword-hang]s
 ,embroid]$ 9 ,gold1 ,*>les ,,ii4       
,c4 ,braid$ ,suit1 #afgj-ij4            
,,plate ,,ix                            
#ajf       ,a4 ,lady's ,embroid]$ ,silk 
,jacket1 #afje-bj4       ,b4 ,lady's    
,bodice ( ,silk ,brocade1 #afhj-agjj4   
,,plate ,x                              
#aai       ,a4 ,black ,velvet ,bodice1  
#afjj-be4       ,b4 ,five ,embroid]$    
,wai/coats1 betwe5 #afij & #ahjj4       
,,plate ,,xi                            
#abb       ,sixte5 ,lea!r ,boots &      
,%oes1 betwe5 #aece & #ahej4            
,,plate ,,xii                           
#ace       ,a4 ,lady's ,outdoor ,co/ume1
 #aghe-ie4       ,b4 ,co/ume1 ,e>ly     
,eighte5? ,c5tury4       ,c4 ,silk      
,brocade ,dress1 #agfj-hj4      ,,plate 

,,xiii                                  
#ach       ,a4 ,silk ,coat1 #agce-ee4   
,b4 ,brocade ,silk ,coat1 #agde-fj4     
,c4 ,embroid]$ ,clo? ,coat1 #aggj-ij4   
,,plate ,,xiv                           
#aea       ,a4 ,embroid]$ ,silk ,dress )
 ,panni]1 #agfe-hj4       ,b4 ,brocade  
,dress & ,quilt$ ,petticoat1 #agej-fe4  
,,plate ,,xv                            
#aed       ,a4 ,:ite ,clo? ,coat1       
#agge-ij4       ,b4 ,silk ,dress1       
#agdj-fj4       ,c4 ,embroid]$ ,velvet  
,coat1 #agec-ge4      ,,plate ,,xvi     
#afg       ,a4 ,silk ,brocade ,dress1   
#agdj-fj4       ,b4 ,silk ,brocade      
,sack-back ,dress1 #agee-agge4       ,c4
 ,dress ( ,/rip$ ,mat]ial1 #agee-he4    
,,plate ,,xvii                          
#agj       ,a4 ,silk ,suit1 #agfe-hj4   
,b4 ,quilt$ ,dress1 #agjj-be4       ,c4 
,silk ,embroid]$ ,suit1 #agfe-hj4       
,,plate ,,xviii                         
#ahc       ,a4 ,brocade ,bodice1        
#aggj-he4       ,b4 ,fl[]$ ,silk ,dress1
 #agej-gj4       ,c4 ,silk ,brocade     

,bodice1 #aghj-ie4      ,,plate ,,xix   
#ahf       ,a4 ,silk ,brocade ,dress1   
#agge-he4       ,b4 ,embroid]$ ,silk    
,jacket1 #agge-ij4       ,c4 ,brocade   
,jacket1 #aghj-ie4      ,,plate ,,xx    
#aii       ,a4 ,gold-embroid]$ ,musl9   
,dress1 #agie-ahje4       ,b4 ,n9e      
,aprons1 betwe5 #afij & #agej4       ,c4
 ,dress ( ,spott$ ,/ock9ette1           
#agie-ahjh4      ,,plate ,,xxi          
#bjb       ,tw5ty-?ree ,boots & ,%oes1 f
 #ahjj to #ahge4      ,,plate ,,xxii    
#bae       ,a4 ,l95 ,dress1 #agie-ahjh4 
,b4 ,silk ,bodice1 #ahbe-cj4       ,c4  
#ahah-be4      ,,plate ,,xxiii          
#bah       ,a4 ,musl9 ,dress ) ,t9sel   
,design1 #agih-ahaj4       ,b4 ,silk    
,dress1 ,p]iod ,george ,,iv4       ,c4  
,sat9 & ,gauze ,dress1 #ahbj-cj4        
,,plate ,,xxiv                          
#bca       ,a4 ,outdoor ,silk ,jacket1  
#agih-ahjh4       ,b4 ,embroid]$ ,musl9 
,bodice1 #ahaf-ahcj4       ,c4          
,embroid]$ ,musl9 ,bodice1 #ahbd-ahbe4  
,d4 ,sat9 & ,gauze ,bodice1 #ahbj-cj4   

,,plate ,,xxv                           
#bcd       ,a4 ,silk ,dress1 #ahjj-aj4  
,b4 ,cotton ,dress1 #ahjj-aj4       ,c4 
,embroid]$ ,musl9 ,dress1 #ahbj-cj4     
,d4 ,silk ,gauze ,dress1 #ahbd-cj4      
,,plate ,,xxvi                          
#bdg       ,a4 ,morn+ ,coat ( ,*9tz1    
#ahbe-de4       ,b4 ,clo? ,coat1        
#ahjh-bj4       ,c4 ,clo? ,ov]coat1     
#ahbj-ce4      ,,plate ,,xxvii          
#bej       ,outdoor ,silk ,dress1       
#ahbe-ce4      ,,plate ,,xxviii         
#bei       ,a4 ,silk ,pelisse1 #ahbj-cj4
       ,b4 ,cotton ,dress1 #ahcj-dj4    
,c4 ,silk ,sp5c] & ,cape1 #ahah-bg4     
,,plate ,,xxix                          
#bfc       ,a4 ,embroid]$ ,silk ,gauze  
,dress1 #ahbj-cj4       ,b4 ,gauze      
,dress ) ,appliqu$ ,design1 #ahbe-ce4   
,c4 ,pr9t$ ,l95 ,outdoor ,dress1        
#ahbg-ahdg4      ,,plate ,,xxx          
#bff       ,a4 ,pr9t$ ,silk ,bodice1    
#ahdj-ej4       ,b4 ,ga!r$ ,l95 ,bodice1
 #ahcg-dg4       ,c4 ,silk ,bodice &    
,b]?a1 #ahde-ee4      ,,plate ,,xxxi    

#bgj       ,a4 ,embroid]$ ,musl9        
,outdoor ,dress1 #ahee-fe4       ,b4    
,rid+ ,habit1 #ahde-ge4       ,c4 ,gauze
 ,ball ,dress1 #ahdj-ee4      ,,plate   
,,xxxii                                 
#bgi       ,a4 ,silk ,dress1 #ahfj-gj4  
,b4 ,gauze ,walk+ ,dress1 #ahej-fj4     
,c4 ,silk ,dress1 #ahdh-eh4      ,,plate
 ,,xxxiii                               
#bhb       ,a4 ,silk ,dress ) ,c\rt     
,tra91 #ahbh-ahch4       ,b4 ,silk      
,aft]noon ,dress1 #ahgb-gh4       ,c4   
,silk ,coat & ,skirt1 #ahee-ef4         
,,dress ,,design       ,plates orig9ally
 pr9t$ 9 collotype are n[ produc$ 9     
half-tone     ,,introduction   ,!       
subject ( ,hi/orical ,co/ume cov]s su* a
 multitude ( detail t a volume on ea*   
c5tury c\ld be writt51 ) hundr$s (      
illu/rations4 ,?us x is1 mo/ works on   
co/ume are exp5sive & bewild]+2 b ,i    
hope ?is small practical h&book w be a  
useful addition to ! _m beautifully     
illu/rat$ works :i* already exi/4  ,i h 
divid$ ! matt] into c5turies & reigns1 z

 f> z possible1 9 ?is small "w1 besides 
sep>at+ male & female attire1 ?us       
simplify+ ref]5ce4 ,a special feature   
has also be5 made1 ( supply+ ! mak] or  
design] ( dress ) actual proportions &  
patt]ns1 glean$ f antique dresses1 z f> 
back z !y c\ld be obta9$2 & ,i am mu*   
indebt$ to ! au?orities at ! ,victoria &
 ,alb]t ,museum = ! p]mission giv5 me to
 exam9e & measure _! unique specim5s2   
also to ,mr4 ,wade1 ,mr4 ,g4 ,g4        
,kilburne1 ,mr4 ,duffield1 ,mr4 ,box    
,k+ham1 ,mr4 ,hill1 ,mr4 ,breakespe>e1 &
 o!rs1 = _! valuable assi/ance ) int]e/+
 specim5s4 ,i h us$ outl9e draw+s 9 !   
text1 z be+ m cle> = purposes (         
explanation4 ,! dates giv5 to !         
illu/rations are to be tak5 z           
approximate to ! "t 9 :i* ! /yle 0 worn4
 ,_m ( ! photographs h be5 arrang$ f my 
own co/ume collection1 :i* has made s   
mu* ( my rese>* simple1 reliable1 &     
pleasant4 ,i am also happy to /ate t    
be=e ! f9al revision ( ?is book ,i h    
he>d t my collection ( hi/orical co/umes

 & accessories w1 aft] a prelim9>y      
exhibition at ,messrs4 ,h>rod's1 be     
pres5t$ to ! ,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum 
z a gift to ! nation by ! ,directors ( t
 firm4 ,?us ! actual dresses %[n 9 ^!   
plates w f9d a p]man5t home 9 ,london1 &
 become valuable examples to /ud5ts (   
co/ume4 ,! coiffures 9 ! collotype      
plates are n to be judg$ z examples1 = x
 w\ld h consum$ f> too mu* "t to set up 
^! figures m p]fectly1 b all ! bonnets1 
caps1 & accessories giv5 are g5u9e      
examples4  ,9 a book ( ?is size1 "o _c g
 into ! designs ( mat]ials1 c41 :i* is a
 /udy any e>ne/ /ud5t w\ld n neglect1 b 
9 ?is connection ,i w\ld draw att5tion  
to ! comp>ative col\r d5sity &          
proportion ( designs *os5 = v>i\s       
effects4  ,x has be5 my endeav\r to     
arrange a great] v>iety ( ! =ms :i* make
 up ! *>act]s ( ea* p]iod1 & also to    
give a wid] k into ! footwe>1 or details
 ( ! footwe>1 ?an is usual 9 mo/ co/ume 
books4  ,9 a review ( ! /yles ,i w\ld n 
press any *oice = build+ new designs1 z 

,i believe 9 close individual rese>* &  
selection1 :i* may utilise _m int]e/+   
features f co/ume sett+s ev5 9 p]iods   
:i* are almo/ scorn$4 ,i believe ! pure/
 beauty is f\nd 9 ! simple =ms ( dress &
 decoration sett+s f ! #ab? to ! #ae?   
c5turies1 s*em$ to ! natural proportions
 ( ! figure4 ,! grace ( l9e & movem5t is
 (t5 aid$ by ! %ort tra91 :i* c be s    
happily caught up 9 _m ways2 ! slight   
drag ( ! tra9 always keeps ! front cle> 
9 outl9e1 besides %[+ ! movem5t ( !     
limbs4 ,l5g? ( fall 9 ! mat]ial 0       
desir$1 ! figure creat+ its own folds ) 
e turn1 b a belt 0 (t5 plac$ r high "u !
 brea/4 ,!re is little reason ) nature (
 f9e =m to make dress into sections by a
 corset wai/4 ,a long1 li!1 complete    
curve 9 outl9e--mu* happi] unbrok51     
except by ! girdle--is c]ta9ly ! mo/    
arti/ically useful conception1 n break+ 
! rhy?m 7z does ! h>d] belt71 :ile x    
also induces mu* beauty 9 lift+ &       
arrang+ ! drap]y4 ,! long fall+ sleeve  
also has ! same qualities1 giv+ a great]

 fullness ( %ape1 a v>iety ( col\r 7by a
 diff]5ce ( l9+71 ) a w+like motion1    
besides s(t5+ ! angle ( ! elb[4  ,i ?9k 
! next g>m5t = high e/eem is !          
*asuble-%ap$ tunic 7) or )\t sleeves74  
,fall+ cleanly f ! %\ld]s1 x /ops at a  
*>m+ l5g? = ! skirt to take up ! fl[ (  
l9e4 ,! delightful effect ( p>tly-lac$  
or clasp$ sides 0 n miss$ by ! able/    
design]s4 ,h[ ref9$1 too1 0 ! "* (      
decoration ( ! old p]iod6 ,! art (      
conc5trat+ effects is se5 to p]fection1 
reta9+ ! bread? ( %ape & l5g? unbrok54  
,jewell$ embroid]y ( f9e enri*m5t 0     
wr\ght on ! bord]s1 neck sett+s1 squ>e  
corn]s1 ! girdle1 & ! clasps4 ,!        
preci\sness ( effect 0 truly appreciat$ 
by ! enclos+ ( ! face 9 ! purity ( :ite 
lawn & zephyr-l veil+s2 ! circlet & !   
long int]lac$ plaits & *>m+ nett+s 7 all
 ta/efully s*em$4 ,has woman ev] look$ m
 supreme ?r\gh all ! c5turies (         
extravagant /yles & di/ortions8 ,i      
believe n3 b ,i h come to ! conclusion  
t1 at :atev] p]iod ( seem+ insanity (   

/yle1 ! woman ( f9e ta/e c ov]come all  
ob/acles by h] individual *oice & set   
up1 & has really always look$ fasc9at+4 
,!re 0 ano!r =m ( decoration at ?is     
p]iod--! cutt+ ( ! edges into a v>iety (
 simple or foliat$ %apes1 giv+ a flutt] 
& enri*m5t to =ms 9 a simple mann]1 &   
?is1 9 conjunction ) ! increas+ ri*ness 
( mat]ials1 0 a valuable aid to light5 !
 effects4 ,x 0 probably initiat$ by !   
h]aldic *>act]i/ics 9 vogue4  ,! prick$ 
& sla%$ details _h mu* ! same result 9  
enri*+ surfaces4  ,lat] ! fan sleeves ( 
! #ah? c5tury 7 enhanc$ 9 a simil> way  
by ! curv$ & scallop$ %ap+1 :i* 0 us$ z 
late z ! ,victorian sixties ) happy     
effect on ! polonaises4  ,n[1 z reg>ds !
 f9e/ corset dress1 ! palm mu/ be giv5  
to ! sack-back dress ( ! eighte5? c5tury
 7n 9 ! p]iod ( its di/ortion ) hoops71 
& a full sett+ %[$ x to greate/         
advantage4  ,?is type ( design l5t      
itself to m v>iety 9 beauty ( arrangem5t
 ?an any o!r2 ! loop+1 reef+1 & ty+     
always set gracefully 9 accord ) ! back 

fall4 ,! easy ex*ange ( ! /oma*] also   
gave additional *ance ( effect1 & !     
beauty ( ! fan-%ap$ sleeve1 ) its lace  
falls at ! elb[1 0 a delightful         
creation4 ,h[ ri* & ref9$ ?is "* c\ld   
be1 )\t ! mon/r\s =ms & head-dresses :i*
 lat] invad$ x & turn$ x into ornate    
absurdity6  ,:5 we exam9e ! p]iod (     
,*>les ,i1 we f9d mu* *>m+ dignity 9 !  
adaptations ( e>li] inv5tions2 ! coll>  
sett+s 7 noble1 inde$ p]fect1 9         
arrangem5t1 & ! bodice decoration &     
proportions mo/ int]e/+4  ,= ! grace (  
girlhood no dresses are happi] ?an ^? ( 
! e>ly #ai? c5tury to #ahcj1 & !        
inv5tions 9 trimm+s ?r\gh ?is p]iod 7   
prolific 9 beauty & lightness ( /yle4   
,analysis ( ! _m fa%ion-plates & orig9al
 dresses ( ?is p]iod w well repay all   
int]e/$ 9 beautiful ne$lecraft & dress  
design4 ,! arrangem5t ( frills1         
ins]tions1 ga!r$ effects1 appli$ =ms1 & 
tassell$ or button$ additions1 w be f\nd
 full ( beauty & novelty1 especially 9 !
 dresses ( :ite embroid]y4 ,plates      

,,xxiii & ,,xxiv 7see pp4 #bah-bca7 give
 "s happy examples ( ?is "t4            
,illu/ration3 ,plate ,i4--,boots & ,%oes
 f ! #ad? to ! #ai? ,c5turies4       #a4
 ,*>les ,,ii4      #b4 ,james ,,ii4     
#c4 ,william & ,m>y4      #d4 ,george   
,,ii4      #e4 ,george ,,iii41 #aggj4   
#f4 ,george ,,iii41 #agfj4      #g4     
,george ,,iii41 #aghj-ahjj4      #h4    
#ahgj-ahhj4      #i4 ,william & ,m>y4   
#aj4 #afhj-agjj4     #aa4 #afhj-agjb4   
#ab4 #agej-agge4     #ac4 #aehj-afbe4   
#ad4 #agaj-agcj4     #ae4 ,h5ry ,,viii4 
#af4 ,semi-,clog1 #aghj-ahjj4     #ag4  
,h5ry ,,viii4     #ah4 #aggh-agie4      
#ai4 ,late #ae? ,c5tury or e>ly #af?    
,c5tury4     #bj4 #aejj-aedj4     #ba4  
,late #ad? ,c5tury to middle ( #ae?     
,c5tury4     #bb4 #aecj-aeee4     #bc4  
#aece-aeee4  ,a ^w on ! mo/ condemn$ fl[
 ( fa%ion dur+ ! ,victorian era4 ,!re   
are _m dresses ( real *>m to be f\nd    
among/ ! mass ( heavy /yles :i* mu/ n be
 ov]look$ 9 /udy+ design & /yle4 ,ev5 ! 
cr9ol9e dress1 :5 treat$ ) ! exquisite  

silk gauzes1 z ,fig4 #c 9 ,plates ,,xxxi
 & ,,xxxiii 7see pp4 #bgj-bhb71 0 z     
allur+ z any woman c\ld wi%1 & ! orig9al
 design ( ! jacket 9 ! latt] figure1 )  
its ri*ly embroid]$1 long-skirt$ front  
cut %ort at ! back1 arrang$ itself      
p]fectly on ?is type ( und]sett+4 ,!re 0
 notable ref9em5t ( effect & beauty (   
proportion 9 _m dresses ( ! sixties1 z  
exemplifi$ 9 ,fig4 ,a1 ,plate ,,xxxii   
7see p4 #bgi71 ! wai/ be+ set r high1 & 
! v full skirt c>ri$ back by ! cr9ol9e  
be+ held ?us ) its cross ties4          
,,*apt] ,i   ,,prehi/oric ,,dress4      
,,female4  ,! woman's attire w\ld h be5 
*iefly a %orti% skirt or wrap ( co>se   
l951 wool1 or lea!r1 ga!r$ 9 front or   
fold$ at "o hip2 grass clo? may also h  
be5 9 use 9 mo/ primitive tribes4       
,probably ! upp] "p ( ! body 0 kept b>e1
 except = _m ornam5ts & necklaces1 b a  
bodice or jacket cut 9 ! same simple =m 
z ! male %irt1 ) a heavy belt or girdle1
 w\ld h be5 us$1 & c]ta9ly a l>ge %awl1 
:i* c\ld be wrapp$ ov] ! head & r\nd !  

figure dur+ inclem5t h\rs4 ,dy$ or pa9t$
 patt]ns on ! clo?s might well h be5    
also 9 use1 _! *ief designs be+ /ripes1 
circles or dots1 zigzag l9es1 diamonds &
 plaid squ>es1 rope patt]ns & plait$    
patt]ns4 ,! hair w\ld h be5 loose1      
plait$1 or coil$ on top1 held by bone   
p9s or circlets ( bronze4   ,,prehi/oric
 ,,dress4 ,,male4  ,we h little         
description or illu/ration to c]tify !  
actual dress ( ! e>ly inhabitants (     
,brita91 b we c draw conclusions )      
pretty c]ta9 assurance1 f ! k ( _! mode 
( liv+4 ,f _! atta9m5ts 9 arti/ic design
 & h&iwork1 x is cle> !y _h arriv$ at a 
v high /ate ( savage culture be=e !     
,roman invasion2 & we h only to /udy !  
bett] types ( savage life /ill 9        
progress1 to picture h[ our own         
primitive race w\ld be likely to dress  
"u ! conditions ( climate4 ,! ?\s&s (   
f9ds1 :i* accumulate evid5ce e ye>1 give
 u a clos] acqua9tance ) _! cu/oms & "w4
 ,! re/ we mu/ imag9e f our g5]al k (   
:at !y _h to cont5d ) 9 climate1 =e/1   

cave1 & floods4  ,^! e>ly p1 x is       
presum$ f c]ta9 discov]ies1 _h long kn[n
 ! art ( co>sely weav+ flax & wool1 :i* 
mu/ soon h be5 9 g5]al use1 f its be+   
heal?i] & clean] ?an ! g>m5ts ( sk94 ,& 
v probably a co>se l951 ) simple dyes ( 
r$1 blue1 yell[1 & br[n1 0 9 use "h :5 !
 ,romans came4  ,! head-dress consi/$ ( 
a cap ( fur or wool1 probably decorat$ )
 a fea!r1 ov] loose & mo/ likely v      
unkempt hair fall+ to ! %\ld]s4 ,!      
,gauls cut _! locks f ! back ( ! head1  
(t5 ty+ up ! rema9d] 9 a tuft on ! top2 
no d\bt ! hair 0 sometimes plait$ or    
p9n$ up ) wood1 bone1 or bronze         
ornam5ts4 ,bone p9s1 tee?1 & bo> tusks 7
 c>ri$ 9 ! e>s1 z well z /uds ( bone or 
/one 9 ! und]lip1 & ev5 ! *eek may h be5
 s decorat$1 z x 0 among/ ! ,esquimaux4 
,! face & body 7 pa9t$ ) r$ & :ite o*re 
& a blue /a94 ,! neck 0 adorn$ ) /r+s ( 
tee?1 /ones1 amb]1 jet1 bronze1 &       
probably beads ( glass or bak$ clay     
col\r$4 ,amulets & tok5s1 armlets &     
bracelets 7 all 9 use4 ,also ! torque1 a

 twi/$ rod ( gold flatt5$ or curl$      
toge!r at ! ends1 0 a m>k ( dignity4 ,a 
wri/let ( wood1 bone1 or lea!r 0 worn :5
 ! b[ & arr[s 7 us$4 ,! arms 7 a spe> ( 
fl9t or bronze & a dagg] ( ! same1 a    
hat*et or heavy club1 a mace /udd$ )    
fl9t or bronze spikes1 & ! sl+1 :i* w\ld
 h necessitat$ a lea!r wallet to c>ry ! 
/ones2 fi% spe>s & snags4 ,also ! bolas 
= fell+ cattle seems to h be5 kn[n2 9   
fact ne>ly all ! usual implem5ts        
app]ta9+ to savage life 7 9 use4        
,illu/ration3 ,plate ,,ii4--      7a7   
,elizabe?an ,robe 9 ,plu%4 #aehe-afje4  
7b7 ,elizabe?an ,robe 9 ,silk ,brocade4 
#aefe-he4     7c7 ,elizabe?an ,male     
,robe 9 ,velvet ,brocade4 #aehj-afae4   
7d7 ,back-piece ( ,elizabe?an ,d\blet 9 
,embroid]$ ,l954             #aehj-afje4
      ,measures1 see p4 #bha4           
,sleeve patt]n ( ,c1 see p4 #cjj4  ,!   
fir/ item ( male attire 0 ( two sk9s    
fa/5$ at ! %\ld]s1 & f ?is we get ! e>ly
 *asuble =m 7:i* may be s beautifully   
treat$1 ev5 to ! pres5t "t71 girt ) a   

lea!r ?ong or /rap at ! wai/4 ,"o sk9   
lapp$ ! o!r1 & h>dly ne$$ sew+ toge!r at
 ! sides1 :ile ?us x 0 easi] to ?r[ (f2 
x may also h be5 ti$ up betwe5 ! legs4  
,! fur 0 worn bo? inside & out1 accord+ 
to ! wea!r2 ?is l>ge sk9 wrap w\ld also 
be worn cross-ways ) ! "r %\ld] free1 & 
! simple cloak ( v>i\s l5g?s ) a hole = 
! head to pass ?r\gh 0 no d\bt "o ( !   
fir/ discov]ies 9 co/ume4  ,a lo9 clo?  
or sk9 may h be5 worn alone1 caught up  
?r\gh ! legs & fa/5$ at ! back ( ! wai/ 
) a heavy belt & set well d[n ! hips4   
,?is w\ld hold a numb] ( p]sonal        
necessities1 9 ! %ape ( a wallet &      
dagg]4 ,! legs w\ld be wrapp$ ) sk9s1   
ti$ up or cross$ by lea!r or s9ew ?ongs1
 or ) hemp or grass rope4 ,sk9s 7       
probably also us$ on ! feet1 ga!r$ & ti$
 above ! in/ep & r\nd ! ankle4  ,!      
enum]ation ( ^! items w give a pretty   
def9ite idea ( h[ ! e>ly race w\ld appe>
 9 _! m or less attir$ =m4 ,9 fight+1 !y
 cle>$ = action 7z x 77 & disc>d$ all   
clo?+1 _! only protection be+ a %ield ( 

wick] or wood cov]$ ) lea!r2 x may h be5
 /udd$ ) bronze plates or pa9t$ )       
grotesque *>act]s1 z 7 _! own bodies1 9 
true savage /yle1 to /rike fe> into _!  
enemies2 x is ev5 possible fea!r        
decorations =m$ "p ( _! get up4         
,,*apt] ,,ii   ,,! ,,developm5t ,,(     
,,co/ume ,,to ,,! ,,t5? ,,c5tury4       
,,female4  ,! female head-dress consi/$ 
*iefly ( fl[+ hair b&$ ) a circlet (    
v>i\s %apes1 b a developm5t ( braid+    
plaits is f\nd v e>ly1 & ! hair 0       
probably arrang$ s be=e ! ,roman era4   
,^! plaits 7 g5]ally br\ght ov] ! %\ld] 
to ! front1 ! hair be+ p>t$ 9 ! c5tre1  
?us mak+ an oval =ehead4 ,v>i\s caps    
began to %[ orig9ality1 & jewels 7 set 9
 ! c5tre ( ! =ehead on ! little cr[n-l  
hat1 :i* mu/ h be5 mo/ becom+4 ,squ>es (
 col\r$ /uffs 7 drap$ ov] ! head &      
%\ld]s1 sometimes ^u :ite l95 squ>es1 & 
_m ladies began to b9d ! face & head1   
%utt+ out ! hair1 9 ! #h? c5tury4 ,!    
k]*ief drap+ is v important to /udy1    
because x 0 ! g5]al mode among/ ! p4    

,heavy coll>s ( ornam5t & /r+s ( beads1 
hang+ ev5 to ! wai/1 are noticeable     
features ( ^! c5turies1 also l>ge       
e>-r+s4  ,a full cloak1 ) a l>ge clasp  
or broo*1 op5$ 9 front1 or 0 turn$ to   
free "o %\ld]2 !re 0 also a long drape  
?r[n r\nd ov] ! opposite %\ld] or br\ght
 picturesquely ov] ! head4  ,!          
ecclesia/ical =m ( cloak z describ$ 9 ! 
male attire 0 also =m$ ab\t ! #f?       
c5tury2 its graceful l9e 0 frequ5tly    
bord]$ completely ) a b& ( ornam5t1 & x 
0 clasp$ j across ! brea/s4  ,! complete
 circul> cloak1 ) a hole = ! head1 is   
se5 v e>ly1 decorat$ ) a p9k$ edge1 :i* 
may also be not$ on "s ( ! %ort dresses 
( ! middle classes4 ,aprons are no d\bt 
( ! e>lie/ orig94 ,a loose tunic fall+  
to ! hips 0 gird$ r high up ! body1 z 9 
! classic dress1 & b&s pass+ bo? outside
 or cross+ betwe5 ! brea/s & go+ ov] !  
%\ld] came f ! same s\rce2 ^! 7 )1 or   
)\t1 %ort sleeves to ! elb[4 ,a long    
loose robe 0 ! *ief attire to ! #f?     
c5tury1 belt$ r high 9 ! wai/1 & caught 

up ) a girdle at ! hips2 ^! girdles gave
 a great int]e/ to ! e>ly c5turies1 ) ! 
art ( arrang+ ! fullness ( skirt into   
its hold4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #a4  ,f 
! #f? c5tury ! dress became clos] fitt+1
 & a %ort bodice is se52 ! neck 0 cut v 
l[1 ei!r squ>e or r\nd 9 %ape1 & ?is    
/yle _h %ort tight sleeves or tight     
sleeves to ! wri/4 ,! lat] tunic ( ! #i?
 c5tury m>k$ ! beg9n+ ( ! slit-op5 upp] 
sleeve1 & a great] l5g? ( ! neck op5+1  
:i* came to be fa/5$ d[n ! front to !   
wai/4  ,! e>ly skirts 7to ! #f? c5tury7 
7 hung f ! hips1 & 7 (t5 atta*$ to a    
heavy girdle b&1 ! fullness 0 ga!r$     
mo/ly at ! back & front2 o!r skirts hung
 f a high] belt & 7 aga9 caught up 9 !  
girdle4 ,a ,v-%ap$ neck sett+ 0 worn by 
! ,franks1 f :i* probably came ! %ap$   
front piece t w int]e/ u 9 ! #ac?       
c5tury4 ,! %oes 7 simil> to ! male %apes
 describ$ lat]1 & ! same mode ( b9d+ !  
/ock+s 0 sometimes imitat$4   ,,!       
,,developm5t ,,( ,,co/ume ,,to ,,! ,,t5?
 ,,c5tury4 ,,male4  ,9 tak+ ! long p]iod

 f ! ,roman occupation to ! #aj? c5tury1
 we c discov] a real developm5t ( /yle 9
 co/ume1 z ) ! sy/em ( vassalage a      
di/9ction ( class arose4 ,no d\bt !     
,romans introduc$ a f9] tuition ( weav+1
 ne$lecraft1 decoration1 & dye+2 & lat] 
! v>i\s peoples com+ f ! ,cont95t1 :5   
settl$ "u ,alfr$ 9 ! #i? c5tury1 produc$
 a solid /yle ( b>b>ic spl5d\r4         
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #b4  ,illu/ration3 
,,fig4 #c4  ,! male hair dress+1 f !    
rugg$ mass ( hair1 soon became well     
comb$ & trimm$ squ>e across ! neck3     
e>-r+s may /ill h be5 9 use by "s nobles
 till ! #aa? c5tury1 & *aplets 7 worn ^u
 ! hair4 ,! ,saxon be>d 0 divid$ into   
two po9ts4 ,small r\nd tight caps (     
wool1 fur1 or velvet1 & ru% or /raw hats
 ( a def9ite %ape 7 9 use to ! #aj?     
c5tury4 ,tight caps1 ) lappets ti$ "u ! 
*91 & hoods appe> on ! %ort capes ab\t !
 #h? c5tury1 or probably e>li]4 ,! g>m5t
 0 ( ! simple/ =m1 cut l a pla9 squ>e   
loose %irt to ! middle ( ! ?igh1 & ?is 0
 put on ov] ! head4 ,! op5+ to pass !   

head ?r\gh 0 ! fir/ "p to receive a b& (
 decoration4 ,! sides 7 sometimes op5$  
to ! hips & ! front caught betwe5 ! legs
 & held at ! wai/4 ,a g>m5t op5$ d[n !  
front1 & ano!r wrapp$ across to ei!r    
%\ld] is also se54 ,a belt girt ! wai/1 
& ! tunic 0 pull$ loosely ov] x4 ,?is   
also c>ri$ ! ess5tial requirem5ts 9 !   
%ape ( a p\*1 dagg]1 knife1 comb1 sword1
 c4 ,! neck 0 ornam5t$ ) *a9s ( bronze1 
gold1 beads1 & *>ms1 & up to ! #h?      
c5tury a bronze ornam5tal armlet 0 worn1
 besides a wri/let4  ,! m5 ( ! rul+     
class f ! #h? c5tury 7 clo!d 9 a long   
g>m5t ( simple %ape1 fall+ to ! ankle1  
ri*ly bord]$ at ! hem & neck4 ,?is      
g5]ally _h long tight sleeves1 & (t5 ov]
 ?is a %ort] tunic1 rea*+ j bel[ ! knee1
 sometimes sleeveless1 or ) r full      
sleeves tight5+ to ! wri/4              
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #d4  ,a pla9 squ>e 
*asuble %ape 0 9 fa%ion f ! #h? c5tury1 
rea*+ to ! bottom ( ! calf ( ! leg1 &   
ri*] mat]ials began to be us$2 no belt 0
 pass$ r\nd ?is1 z x 0 all[$ to fall    

/raight4  ,loose bree*es 7 worn f v e>ly
 times1 & a loose tr\s] to ! ankle1 be+ 
ti$ !re or b\nd crosswise f ! boot      
sometimes "r up ! ?igh4 ,! same b9d+ 0  
done ev5 ) ! b>e legs & lat] hose3      
close-fitt+ %ort bree*es & clo? hose    
became a feature 9 ! #aj? c5tury1 & ) ! 
latt] an ornam5tal knee-piece or g>t]   
bel[ ! knee sometimes f9i%$ ! /rapp+s4  
,! cloak 0 ! gr& g>m5t1 heavily b&$ )   
ornam5t & fa/5$ ) a l>ge clasp on "o    
%\ld]1 or at ! c5tre ( ! brea/4 ,long   
circul> cloaks ( v>y+ l5g?s1 put on ov] 
! head1 7 mu* fav\r$1 & :5 caught up at 
! sides on ei!r %\ld] gave a f9e drap$  
effect4  ,ano!r cloak ( ecclesia/ical   
"*1 slop+ 9 a curve f ! neck & n meet+ 9
 front1 is se5 on _m notable figures f !
 e>ly #h? c5tury1 l>ge clasps bridg+ !  
wid? l[ d[n on ! *e/4  ,illu/ration3    
,plate ,,iii4--      7a7 ,elizabe?an    
,jump 7or ,jacket74 ,ab\t #afjj4     7b7
 ,portrait ( a ,lady 9 ,embroid]$       
,co/ume4 ,betwe5           #afbj &      
#afdj4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4            

#e4--,,types ,,( ,,%oes4 ,briti%1       
,roman1 ,norman to #ac? c5tury4  ,no    
d\bt ! s&al ( v>i\s =ms 0 mu* us$ =     
footwe> ?r\gh ?is p]iod1 also a simple  
l[ %oe :i* 0 held on by ! leg-/rapp+s1  
z1 ab\t ! #h? c5tury1 %oes are se5 )    
loops at ! upp] edge1 ^! be+ atta*m5ts =
 ! b9d+1 & ?is 0 no d\bt a me?od f !    
prehi/oric times4  ,!re 0 also a s(t    
boot rea*+ to ! calf1 lac$ up ! front2  
&1 aft] ! #h? c5tury1 a r po9t$ %oe1 op5
 d[n ! in/ep1 lac$1 ti$1 or ga!r$ into a
 buckle ab\t ! ankle4     ,,*apt] ,,iii 
,,t5? ,,to ,,! ,,fifte5? ,,c5tury4      
,,female4  ,! head-dress ( wom5 n[ began
 to %[ a pref]5ce to conf9e ! hair )    
nets & to close 9 ! face1 :i* cont9u$   
till ! #ae? c5tury4 ,! circlet & long   
plait or plaits & ! fl[+ hair rema9$    
till ! #ad? c5tury4 ,9 ! #ab? c5tury we 
discov] ! hair ga!r$ 9 nets at ei!r side
 ( ! head1 cov]+ ! e>s4 ,a l[-cr[n$ hat 
0 b\nd ov] ) a b& ( lawn or f9e mat]ial 
pass+ und]nea? ! *91 o!rwise ! plaits 7 
loop$ up "u a circlet :i* 0 also worn ) 

! fl[+ hair4  ,a squ>e effect 0 aim$ at 
9 ! #ac? c5tury ) tight side-plaits b\nd
 into a %ape or nett$ hair 0 /rapp$ to !
 head z 9 ,fig4 #aa 7see p4 #fe74 ,a    
fall ( f9e mat]ial s(t5$ ! h>d effect1 &
 _m ladies ( quality b\nd ! face1 neck1 
& head 9 ! wimple ( f9e l951 sometimes  
ga!r+ ?is to ! same qua9t %ape ( ! nett$
 hair4 ,i give a v>iety ( ^! sett+s on  
page #fe4 ,a k]*ief ( l95 com+ r\nd !   
neck 0 br\ght up tightly r\nd ! face &  
fe/oon$ on ! top ( ! head1 :ile ano!r   
piece 0 p9n$ close to ! br[s & fell     
loosely to ! %\ld]s1 be+ (t5 held on by 
a circlet z well4  ,?is "* 0 ma9ta9$    
till ! e>ly #ad? c5tury1 :5 a /yle (    
high peak$ hats came into evid5ce1 "o   
%ape ( :i* became ! mo/ impos+ feature (
 hi/oric co/ume 9 ! #ae? c5tury4 ,x 0   
/ill b a simple =m 9 ! middle ( ! #ad?  
c5tury1 = ano!r %ape fir/ ga9$          
pr$om9ance4 ,e>ly 9 ?is c5tury also may 
be not$ a curi\s %ape l ! cap ( lib]ty1 
usually ) a long tail at ! back z drawn 
on page #ei4 ,?is c>ri$ design to !     

ecc5tric =ms ( ! pig-tail$ hood1 & !n ! 
rival ( ! high peak$ hat took its place 
t[>ds ! end ( ! #ad? c5tury--a cu%ion$  
head-dress1 :i* rose & divid$ 9 a       
hornlike /ructure4 ,x />t$ z 9 ,fig4    
#be1 & ,i h illu/rat$ its progress2 !   
veil drap+ 0 a great feature1 giv+ pl5ty
 ( scope = individual fancy4 ,x 01 z a  
rule1 ri*ly decorat$ ) gold & jewels1 & 
! hair 0 completely enclos$ 9 a gold net
 & a tight-fitt+ cap to hold ?is        
erection4 ,l>ge drop e>-r+s 7 mu* worn1 
& a f9e *a9 ( gems encircl$ ! neck or   
fell to ! brea/4  ,illu/ration3 ,plate  
,,iv4--      7c7 ,y\?'s ,jacket ( ,l95  
,embroid]$ 9 ,wor/$4 #afce-fe4          
,patt]n1 see p4 #bii4     7d7 ,l95 ,male
 ,jacket ,embroid]$ ) ,gold & ,silk4    
#afjj-dj4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4         
#f4--,t5? to ?irte5? c5tury4            
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #g4      ,h5ry     
,,ii4     ,john     ,h5ry ,i4     ,ri*>d
 ,i4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #h4--,twelf? 
to f\rte5? c5tury4  ,9 ! #aj? c5tury a  
long close-fitt+ robe 0 9 fa%ion1       

sometimes ) a deep ,v-%ap$ neck op5+1   
?\gh usually ! neck 0 cut to a r\nd =m4 
,"s sleeves 7 tight] ) a small cuff1 b  
usually ! out] g>m5t _h a fall+ sleeve )
 a squ>e or r\nd end %[+ ! tight        
und]sleeve4 ,! out] sleeve v>i$ mu* 9   
l5g?1 f ! elb[ or h& dropp+ ev5 to !    
gr\nd2 x 0 n>r[ & wid5$ ?r\gh ! #ad?    
c5tury1 :5 its edge 0 cut into v>i\s    
patt]ns z 9 ,fig4 #ah 7see p4 #gi74 ,9 !
 #ac? c5tury we notice a long sleeve    
op5$ at ! elb[ = ! "u sleeve to come    
?r\gh1 :i* beautiful /yle cont9u$ to !  
middle ( ! #ag? c5tury4  ,illu/ration3  
,,fig4 #i4      ,norman1 #ab? c5tury    
,saxon1 #ab? c5tury  ,illu/ration3      
,,fig4 #aj4--;,f\rte5? c5tury1 #a/ half4
  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aa4--;,f\rte5?  
c5tury1 #bnd half4  ,) ! #aj? c5tury    
came ! fir/ corselet f ! wai/ to ! hip1 
clasp+ a loose tunic ) an "u-dress tak+ 
a long po9t$ tra94 ,! mann] ( tuck+ !   
tunic "u ! corselet :5 x 0 worn ov] x1 &
 s creat+ fe/oons1 is wor?y ( notice z  
int]e/+ 9 arrangem5t & design4  ,! #ac? 

c5tury p>ti-col\r$ & /rip$ dresses      
=e%ad[$ ! h]aldic fa%ion1 :i* mu/ be    
/udi$ = its proportion & treatm5t (     
decorative col\r-values 9 c\nt]*ange to 
get ! true value ( its noble effects4   
,a great feature n[ appe>s 9 !          
*asuble-%ap$ front or sett+ to a closely
 cut jacket4 ,?is ultimately becomes !  
decorative /oma*] ?r\gh ! lat] p]iods1 &
 x is v int]e/+ to note its developm5t4 
,9 ! #ac? c5tury ?is jacket 0 a fur     
con/ruction ( a long simple =m op5$ at !
 sides to ! hips = ! sleeves to come    
?r\gh2 x _h a /raight hem or 0 r\nd$ at 
! front po9ts1 & a *asuble =m ( x 0     
treat$ z 9 ,fig4 #ac or 9 conjunction ) 
a %ort cape2 x 0 *iefly a decoration (  
erm9e4 ,x grew into a complete jacket1 &
 9 ! #ad? c5tury x 0 heavily ornam5t$ ) 
gems2 & ! simple front1 f be+ a feature 
outside ! jacket1 0 lat] (t5 enclos$ at 
! sides4 ,! jacket itself is beautiful 9
 =m & proportion1 & ! curv$ b& ( design 
ov] ! hips makes a nice foil to ! curv$ 
front4 ,?is patt]n is pla9ly d]iv$ f !  

effect ( ! ri* girdle t 0 at fir/ se5   
?r\gh ! side op5+s & few jackets are )\t
 x1 ! usual %ap+ ( ! neck ) mo/ ( ^! 0  
squ>e4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ab4--,nos4
 #a to #g1 #ad? c5tury4 ,nos4 #h & #i1  
#ae? c5tury4  ,9 ! fir/ qu>t] ( ! #ad?  
c5tury ! sett+ ( ! neck 0 ( a r\nd %ape1
 & aft] #acej a rais$ or curv$ =m is    
fav\r$4 ,lat] /ill1 & ) ! hornlike      
head-dress1 a v deep ,v %ape1 op5 almo/ 
to ! belt 0 ! mode1 (t5 be+ fill$ 9 )   
velvet4 ,at ! same "t "s began to take  
up ! fa%ions ( a v high coll> & a       
r\nd-%ap$ body & sleeves1 z 9 ,fig4 #bd 
7see p4 #hi71 ) :i* a wide po9t$ belt is
 se54 ,"s robes 7 op5$ 9 front up to !  
height ( ! girdle1 ?\gh _m dresses 7    
worn )\t girdles aft] ! #ab? c5tury4    
,decorat$ pockets are sometimes se5 9 ! 
lat] p]iod1 & an int]e/+ h&-cov]+ or    
fall+ cuff came ) !m4  ,illu/ration3    
,,fig4 #ac4--,nos4 #a to #c1 #ad?       
c5tury4 ,nos4 #d to #i1 #ae? c5tury4  ,!
 cloak z describ$ 9 ! #aj? c5tury /ill  
cont9u$ till ! #ab?1 z well z ! light   

wrap :i* may almo/ be plac$ ) any p]iod1
 ?\gh mo/ly a feature ( ! m classic     
/yles4  ,skirts & und]skirts 7 worn )   
tra9s4 ,!y 7 mo/ly b&$ ) wide bord]s (  
ornam5t up to ! #ac? c5tury1 ! fullness 
be+ (t5 ga!r$ to ! back & front4  ,!    
*asuble-%ap$ ov]dress 0 worn to ! middle
 ( ! #ad? c5tury1 sleeveless1 &1 lac$ or
 sewn tight to ! figure f ! arm to !    
hip1 or completely d[n ! sides1 g5]ally 
rea*$ j bel[ ! knee4  ,! %oes 7 ( mu* ! 
same "* z ^? ( ! male examples          
illu/rat$1 ?\gh !y h>dly rea*$ ! same   
extravagance 9 l5g?1 ow+1 no d\bt1 to ! 
feet ( woman be+ hamp]$ by h] skirt2 b  
,i suspect !y ev5 brav$ high wood5      
clogs1 z we "k !y did ! tall *op9s ( !  
#af? c5tury1 to height5 _! /ature4      
,illu/ration3 ,plate ,v4--      7a7     
,j]k94 ,p]iod ,james ,i4     7b7 ,lady's
 ,bodice ( ,sla%$ & ,v&yk$ ,sat94       
#afce-ej4     7c7 ,j]k9 ( ,embroid]$    
,l954 #afcj-fj4     7d7 ,j]k9 (         
,embroid]$ ,l954 #aehj-afce4  ,patt]n   
measurem5ts1 see p4 #bic4   ,,t5? ,,to  

,,! ,,fifte5? ,,c5tury4 ,,male4  ,f !   
#aj? to ! #ae? c5tury1 we f9d co/ume    
develop+ rapidly into elaborate &       
int]e/+ designs4 ,close relations ) !   
,cont95t br\ght new ideas1 & ri* velvets
 & brocades int]wov5 ) gold enhanc$ !   
gorge\sness ( attire1 :ile !            
introduction ( h]aldic design br\ght 9 a
 v picturesque elem5t4 ,hats &          
head-dresses began to become important  
features1 enl>g+ to ecc5tric %apes &    
proportions1 only equall$ 9 !           
extravagant "p ( ! #ah? c5tury4  ,x may 
be not$ t fem99e fa%ion1 z x assumes new
 *>act]s & proportions1 affects ! /yle (
 ! male clo!s 9 ! same way1 z1 :5 a high
 or po9t$ head-dress comes 91 ! male hat
 also increases its size2 ! same ) curv$
 or angul> designs1 full or tight       
sleeves4  ,! hair 0 worn long & r squ>$ 
9 %ape at ! back till ! end ( ! #ae?    
c5tury4 ,a t5d5cy to %ut 9 ! face by    
close hoods ti$ "u ! *9 is rem>k$1 & ?is
 =ms a /rong feature ( ! #ac? & #ad?    
c5turies4 ,e>-r+s 7 seldom worn aft] !  

#aj? c5tury2 b ! neck 0 g5]ally adorn$ )
 heavy *a9 decorations4  ,be>ds assum$ a
 po9t$ %ape 9 accordance ) ?is          
developm5t ( fa%ion1 & d\ble-po9t$ be>ds
 7 reviv$ betwe5 #achj & #achf4 ,hats ( 
/raw ) mu%room brims & r\nd tops came   
into vogue 9 ! #aa? c5tury1 cov]$ )     
col\r$ mat]ials & f9i%$ ) a spike or    
button at ! top1 & ! cr[ns ( ^! took a  
po9t$ %ape 9 ! #ad? c5tury4 ,! usual cap
 ) fold$ brim _h a loose cr[n1 & we f9d 
?is began to l5g!n & fall ov] to "o side
 9 ! #aa? c5tury1 & cont9u$ to elongate 
till1 9 ! #ae? c5tury1 x (t5 dropp$ to !
 knee 9 a long ?9 po9t4 ,9 ! #ad? c5tury
 x took a fullness ( loose folds1 )     
s]rat$ or foliat$ edges fall+ to ! %\ld]
 z 9 ,fig4 #ae 7see p4 #gc74 ,a close   
helmet-%ap$ cap is se5 9 ! #ab? c5tury1 
) a fall+ po9t f ! cr[n1 & ! #ac? c5tury
 br\ght 9 ! high] cr[n$ hat1 ) a long   
peak$ front1 turn$ up at ! back4 ,fea!rs
 7 worn at ! front1 back1 or side (     
hats1 & sometimes on ! front ( ! hoods2 
^! increas$ _! dim5sions 9 height &     

peak1 till ! /raight-up high hat1 :i* 0 
(t5 brimless1 came 9 ! #ae? c5tury4 ,!  
e>ly hood or c[l soon began to v>y its  
design1 = 9 ! #ac? c5tury x 0 (t5 a "p  
(1 or atta*$ to1 a *asuble %ape fall+   
back & front1 or ) ! long front1 /opp+  
at a %ort cape l5g? beh9d4 ,a note (    
int]e/ 9 ! #ad? c5tury appe>s1 :]e !    
=ehead "p ( ! hood is turn$ up1 %[+ a   
col\r$ l9+1 & at times ! fa%ionable     
s]rat$ edge surr\nd+ ! face is se54     
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ad4      #ac?     
c5tury     #ad? c5tury     #ae? c5tury  
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ae4--;,f\rte5?    
c5tury4  ,illu/ration3 ,plate ,,vi4--   
7a7 ,coll> & ,cuffs set ) ,lace4        
#afjj-cj4     7b7 ,embroid]$ ,lea!r     
,j]k94 #afbj-dj4     7c7 ,top ( ,/ock+4 
,embroid]$ ,l954 #afbe-ej4              
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #af4--,twelf? to   
?irte5? c5tury4  ,! *asuble-%ap$ g>m5t 0
 a feature (t5 worn ov] ! coat until !  
end ( ! #ae? c5tury1 & 0 g5]ally worn   
long ) ! elongat$ fa%ion ( ! #ad?       
c5tury1 & %ort ) ! %ort] tunics ( ! #ae?

 c5tury4 ,!y are f\nd v wide 9 ! #ad?   
c5tury1 & s fall well d[n ov] ! %\ld]1  
:]e !y are (t5 lac$ a %ort di/ance up1  
creat+ an int]e/+ feature4 ,cloaks 7 n s
 mu* 9 fav\r ) ! heavi] c[l & cape1 b !y
 7 us$1 fa/5$ by broo*es to ei!r %\ld] r
 at ! back1 aft] ! #ab? c5tury4         
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ag4--;,f\rte5?    
c5tury4  ,a v tight-fitt+ suit call$    
,ju/acorps came into use f ! #ab?       
c5tury1 & develop$ a padd$ r\nd-%ap$    
body t[>ds ! end ( ! #ad? c5tury2 !     
closely-cut body 0 button$ up to !      
?roat1 or 0 set ) a high coll> = ! fir/ 
"t4 ,! tights came ov] x1 sometimes r   
high up ! wai/1 be+ lac$ to x4 ,a long  
tunic 0 *iefly fav\r$ dur+ ! #aj? & #aa?
 c5turies ) %ort or long cuffless       
sleeves1 & a full bell-%ap$ fall+ sleeve
 %[$ a close-fitt+ "u "o4  ,^! tunics 7 
*iefly op5 at ! neck z 9 ! e>li] times1 
?\gh a slight diff]5ce to be not$ is a  
,v-%ap$ op5+ 9 ! #ad? c5tury1 :i* is    
develop$ 9 ! #ae? c5tury2 !y 7 also     
split up ! sides1 ev5 to ! hips4 ,"s 7 v

 full 9 %ape1 & 7 ga!r$ to ei!r side z 9
 ! illu/ration2 o!rs _h ! body closely  
fitt$ & full only 9 ! skirt1 b z a rule 
"o f9ds ?is latt] %ape only rea*es j    
bel[ ! knee4 ,!y 7 (t5 tuck$ into ! belt
 9 front1 %[+ a ri* und]skirt4  ,a      
girdle 7besides a belt7 0 worn on ! hips
 ) ! long] tunics1 z 9 ,fig4 #bh 7see p4
 #id71 ! dagg] & p\* be+ c>ri$ 9 front  
on ! girdle1 & n ! belt4 ,a small dagg] 
0 (t5 slung at ! back or front ( ! neck1
 z an ornam5t at ! end ( ! #ad? c5tury4 
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ah4--;,f\rte5?    
c5tury4  ,tights to ! wai/ 7 worn ) bo? 
long & %ort tunics1 & reta9$ ! cross$   
b9d+ up ! legs to ! #ac? c5tury1 9 !    
v>i\s designs ( page #ec4 ,p>ti-col\r$  
tights came 9 ) ! #ad? c5tury1 c>ry+ out
 ! h]aldic "* ( dress1 & ?is may be f\nd
 till ab\t #aecj4 ,a s&al %oe 0 mu* worn
 up to ! #ab? c5tury1 ) /rapp+s to v>i\s
 heights up ! leg1 ?is ev5 ov] ! %ort   
top-boots1 b ! usual %oe op5$ d[n !     
front ( ! in/ep to ! toe1 :i* 0 r po9t$ 
9 %ape1 & x 0 curv$ or squ>e at ! ankle4

 ,! illu/ration gives a good v>iety ( ! 
preval5t =ms4 ,! /ock+-boot is also     
ano!r *>act]i/ic ( ?is e>li] "t1 z well 
z ! common]s' wooll5 gait]s1 worn z 9   
,fig4 #cj1 on ! seat$ figure1 :i* 7 9   
use to ! middle ( ! #af? c5tury4        
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ai4--,twelf? &    
?irte5? c5turies4  ,9 ! illu/rations :i*
 %[ no %oe on ! tights1 x w be und]/ood 
t a sole ( lea!r 0 sewn on to ! "u "p ( 
! foot4 ,?is practice is ev5 se5 to-day 
on ! ,cont95t1 :]e ! clog is mo/ly 9    
use4 ,a s(t boot1 rea*+ to ! calf1 0    
worn till ! #ae? c5tury1 ) ! top fold$  
or trimm$ ) fur1 ! latt] be+ g5]ally    
lac$ d[n ! front1 ev5 to ! in/ep3 ! %ape
 ( ^! only v>i$ 9 ! l5g? ( ! po9t$ toes 
z ! /yle develop$4  ,! long-po9t$ %oes  
began to increase all ?r\gh ! #ac?      
c5tury1 & 9 ! #ad? c5tury !y rea*$ _!   
greate/ l5g?1 :5 ! po9ts 7 (t5 ti$ up to
 a g>t] j bel[ ! knee4 ,wood5 clogs 7   
mu* us$1 & 7 (t5 consid]ably rais$4     
,iron circul> supports 7 also 9 use at !
 end ( ?is "t2 ^! 7 ! =eta/e ( !        

ecc5tric *op9s ( ! #af? c5tury1 :i* 7 m 
fav\r$ on ! ,cont95t ?an "h4 ,! po9t$   
toes also 7 made to curl outw>ds1 giv+ a
 splay-foot$ effect1 late 9 ! #ad?      
c5tury4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4           
#bj4--;,f\rte5? & fifte5? c5turies4     
,,*apt] ,,iv   ,,fifte5? ,,c5tury4      
,,female4  ,we h n[ arriv$ at ! height (
 ecc5tric fa%ion 9 m$iaeval head-dress4 
,! hornlike creations1 /udd$ ) jewels1 &
 peaks ( wondr\s height1 bo? drap$ ) f9e
 musl9s & (t5 completely %utt+ away !   
hair f sight1 _h a support+ cap :i*     
mo/ly came ov] e>s & *eeks1 & a clut* is
 se5 on ! =ehead1 at times conceal$ by a
 jewel4 ,! hair 0 g5]ally all[$ to fall 
loose "u ! back drape1 or a long plait  
is sometimes se5 at ! back ) ! fir/-nam$
 head-dress4 ,! back drape sett+ f ! br[
 d[n ! back 0 well conceiv$ to balance !
 high spire1 b x seems to h be5 disc>d$ 
dur+ ! reign ( ,edw>d ,v1 & light veil  
falls 7 worn :i* (t5 came half ov] !    
face4 ,9 ,h5ry ,,vii's "t ! extreme     
fa%ion came 9 ! %ape ( a closely-fitt+  

curv$ cap1 ) a fall ( mat]ial ov] !     
back4 ,! erm9e-trimm$ jacket 0 /ill 9   
fav\r to ! middle ( ! la/-nam$ reign1 :5
 x 0 worn l[ d[n ov] ! hips4            
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ba4--;,fifte5?    
c5tury1 #a/ half4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 
#bb4--,middle ( fifte5? c5tury to       
sixte5? c5tury4  ,illu/ration3 ,plate   
,,vii4--      7a7 ,h]ald's ,coat4       
,embroid]$ ,velvet & ,silk4 #a/ half    
#ag?           ,c5tury4 ,measur$ patt]n1
 page #cja4     7b7 ,lady's ,bodice (   
,black ,velvet4 #afcj-fj4               
,measurem5t1 see p4 #big4     7c7 ,black
 ,silk ,j]k94 #afdj-fj4  ,illu/ration3  
,,fig4 #bc4--;,fifte5? c5tury1 #a/ half4
  ,! *ief dress ( ?is p]iod _h a ,v-%ap$
 coll>-front meet+ at ! wai/1 mo/ly made
 9 black mat]ial or fur4 ,x 0 wide on ! 
%\ld]1 & seems to h be5 /iff5$ to set   
out2 ! ,v %ape 0 g5]ally fill$ 9 )      
velvet1 & a v wide b& encircl$ ! wai/2 a
 girdle is occasionally not$4 ,! keys'  
pocket & o!r requisites 7 g5]ally c>ri$ 
on ! und]skirt dur+ ^! times4 ,! skirt 0

 full & ga!r$ to ! back 9 a tra91 !     
ga!rs (t5 runn+ into ! bodice2 a v wide 
bord] is preval5t1 ev5 to ! middle ( !  
?igh4 ,tight sleeves are usual1 & hang+ 
sleeves 7 worn1 mo/ly set 9 a v %ort    
sleeve1 :i* assume a puff-%ape 9 ,h5ry  
,,vii's reign2 long cuffs1 almo/ cov]+ !
 h&1 are se5 on _m sleeves4             
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bd4--;,fifte5?    
c5tury1 #bnd half4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4
 #be4--;,fifte5? c5tury1 #bnd half4     
,illu/ration3 ,plate ,,viii4--7a7 7b7   
7c7 ,?ree ,suits4 ,p]iod ,*>les ,,ii4   
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bf4--;,end (      
fifte5? c5tury4  ,modes ( op5+ ! skirt  
up to ! hips occasionally %[$ !mselves1 
& ev5 ! sides to ! hips are se5 lac$4 ,9
 ! e>li] dress1 ab\t #adhe1 ! neck sett+
 ( dress became v squ>e1 & 0 fill$ )    
f9e-drawn lawn4 ,! squ>e %ape rises 9 a 
curv$ c5tre be=e ! end ( ?is p]iod1 & a 
close-fitt+ robe 0 worn ) a girdle1 (t5 
op5$ up ! sides4 ,! %ort upp] sleeve &  
full out] sleeve s mu* 9 vogue gave     
place to a divid$ upp] & l[] sleeve1    

lac$ or ti$ ) ribbon1 ) puffs ( lawn    
pull$ ?r\gh ! op5+s at %\ld] & elb[1 &  
d[n ! back ( ! =e>m4 ,sla%es are n[ se5 
9 mo/ sleeves1 & an ,italianesque "*    
p]vad$ ! fa%ion4  ,high1 s(t boots &    
%oes ( a simil> %ape to ! male          
description 7 worn1 & *ang$ :5 !        
squ>e-toe %oes came 94  ,?r\gh ?is p]iod
 !re are _m int]e/+ details ( co/ume to 
/udy1 :ile gilt tags1 f9i%+ laces1 &    
ribbons are to be rem>k$ f ?is p]iod4   
,,fifte5? ,,c5tury4 ,,male4             
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bg4--;,fifte5?    
c5tury4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4           
#bh4--;,fifte5? c5tury1 #a/ half4       
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bi4--,middle (    
fifte5? c5tury4  ,! *ief %apes to m>k 9 
?is c5tury 9 male head-dress is !       
increas$ height ( ! tall hats :i* rise  
to vie ) ! female fa%ions4 ,we /ill see 
a r\nd hat ) a roll$ edge & long fall   
ov] "o side1 besides %ort] folds 9 !    
cr[n1 bo? scallop$ or foliat$ at ! edge1
 & ?is %ape may be not$ till ab\t #adfj4
 ,"s ( ^! hats 7 made )\t a cr[n1 z 9   

,fig4 #bh 7see p4 #id72 ! roll 0        
decorat$1 z a rule1 ) jewell$ /uds4 ,a  
top hat1 some?+ l our pres5t %ape1      
appe>s1 b m bell$ at ! top & also a     
padd$1 roll$ brim4 ,x 0 made 9 v>i\s ri*
 mat]ials1 & (t5 decorat$ ) jewels4 ,!  
peak-front$ hat /ill cont9u$ to be      
fav\r$ till ab\t #adhj1 its *ief        
diff]5ce be+ a cr[n m ecc5tric 9 height4
 ,tall cyl9d] hats1 ) fold$ brims or no 
brim1 & o!r %apes are illu/rat$4 ,!     
v>iety is s great ?r\gh ?is p]iod t x is
 well to /udy ! vag>ies ( fa%ion :i* ,i 
h illu/rat$ 9 sequ5ce z f> z possible2  
!y 7 mo/ly us$ till ab\t ! la/ qu>t] (  
?is c5tury1 :5 ! l[-cr[n$ flat hat )    
turn$-up brim began to secure ! fa%ion4 
,?is 0 g5]ally worn tilt$ on "o side &  
(t5 ov] a sc>let skull-cap4 ,a l>ge bun*
 ( plumes came 9 ) ?is hat1 set up f !  
front1 curv+ backw>ds1 & giv+ a v gr&   
effect3 ) mo/ ( ! tall hats ! fea!r 0   
set at ! back4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4    
#cj4--;,fifte5? c5tury4  ,illu/ration3  
,,fig4 #ca4--;,fifte5? c5tury1 #a/ half4

  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cb4--;,fifte5?  
c5tury1 #bnd half4  ,! notable *ange 9 !
 tunic1 :i* 0 worn bo? v %ort & to !    
gr\nd1 0 ! arrangem5t ( folds to ! back 
& front1 ga!r$ to a ,v %ape at ! wai/4  
,! hang+ sleeve began to g out ( fav\r  
aft] ! middle ( ! c5tury1 b ! sleeve or 
cuff cov]+ ! h& 0 cont9u$ till ! end (  
?is c5tury4  ,a sleeve1 full at ! %\ld]1
 is f\nd1 & %ort1 r\nd1 padd$ sleeves   
came 91 worn ov] a close-fitt+ sleeve4  
,?is %ort sleeve became rais$ on !      
%\ld]1 & 0 cut or loop$ up ! out] side3 
a long loose out] sleeve is also se5 9  
conjunction ) ^! %ort ones4 ,a v %ort   
jacket is notable1 ( a pla9 squ>e %ape1 
) a pla9 sleeve on ! left arm & a hang+ 
sleeve on ! "r to ! knee4 ,! tight-fitt+
 j]k91 lac$ d[n ! front1 0 worn ) ?is z 
) mo/ o!r coats4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4  
#cc4--;,end ( fifte5? c5tury4           
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cd4--;,fifte5?    
c5tury1 #bnd half4  ,illu/ration3 ,plate
 ,v,i,i,ia--      7a7 ,suit ( ,embroid]$
 ,silk4 #afaj-cj4     7b7 ,?ree ,sword  

,hang]s ,embroid]$ 9 ,gold4 ,*>les ,,ii4
     7c7 ,braid$ ,suit4 #afgj-ij4       
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4                    
#ce4--;,fifte5?-c5tury ,%oes & ,clogs4  
,! high coll> to ! ?roat _h gone out = a
 coll> op5$ 9 front4 ,v %ort & v long   
*asubles 7 worn ) or )\t sleeves :i* 7  
ga!r$ high & full at ! %\ld]s4 ,!       
sleeves 7 n[ sometimes slit op5 at !    
back & held ) sev]al ties1 z l95 sleeves
 are n[ %[n ) ^!4  ,p>ti-col\r$ tights 7
 n s mu* fav\r$ ?r\gh ?is p]iod1 b a    
decorat$ ?igh1 or "p ( ! ?igh & knee1 0 
a fav\rite me?od ( enri*m5t4            
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cf4  ,a long coat 
came 9 at ! lat] "p ( ?is "t1 ) a deep  
,v-%ap$ coll> meet+ at ! wai/2 x 0 also 
cut into a squ>e %ape at ! %\ld]s1 z 9  
,fig4 #dc 7see p4 #aai74 ,a loose       
bell-%ap$ sleeve usually w5t ) ?is1 (t5 
op5$ 9 ! front ( ! upp] arm4 ,a %ort    
squ>e cape is at times se5 9 conjunction
 ) ?is4 ,a l[ squ>e or r\nd neck %ape   
came 9 dur+ ! la/ qu>t] ( ?is c5tury1   
fill$ 9 ) a f9e ga!r$ lawn & a          

tight-fitt+ coat ) a pleat$ skirt & full
 padd$ sleeves1 or a tight sleeve ) a   
full puff or sph]ical upp] "p4          
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cg4  ,nos4 #a1 #b1
 #c1 #d1 #e1 #f1 #g1 #h1 second half (  
#ae? c5tury4  ,nos4 #i1 #aj1 #aa1 #ab1  
#ac1 #ad1 #ae1 #af1 #ag1 #ah1 v>iety (  
%apes f #adij to #afcj4  ,illu/ration3  
,,fig4 #ch4      ,no4      #a4 #ad?     
c5tury4      #b4 #ae? c5tury4      #c4  
#d4 ,late #af? c5t4      #e4 #aehj-afaj4
      #f4             #g4 #afje-afdj4   
#h4 #afjj-afbe4      #i4 #aeej-afjj4    
#aj4 #afaj-afdj4     #aa4 #aeij-afbj4   
#ab4 #afje-afcj4     #ac4 #afge-afie4   
#ad4 #afgj-afij4     #ae4 #afhj-agjj4   
#af4 #afij-agbj4     #ag4 #afhj-agjj4   
#ah4 #agjj-agej4     #ai4 #agjj-aghj4   
#bj4 #agjj-agfj4     #ba4 #agdj-aghj4   
#bb4 #agde-aghj4     #bc4 #aggj-ahjj4   
#bd4 #agcj-agfj4     #be4 #agjj-aghj4   
#bf4 #ahcj-ahfj4     #bg4 #aghj-ahjj4   
#bh4 #ahdj-ahgj4     #bi4               
,illu/ration3 ,plate ,,ix4--      7a7   
,lady's ,embroid]$ ,silk ,jacket4       

#afje-cj4     7b7 ,lady's ,bodice (     
,silk ,brocade4 #afhj-agjj4             
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ci4--;,decorat$   
,lea!r1 #ae? & #af? c5turies4      ,comb
 case     purse     ,cut lea!r4 #ae c5t4
     ,lea!r     ,pi]c$ lea!r1 #af c5t4  
,bronze /uds #ae or #af c5t4     metal  
/uds     ,incis$ l9es ) metal /uds #ae  
c5t4  ,%oes & boots 7 /ill worn ) v long
 po9t$ toes till ab\t #adfe1 :5 a       
proclamation 0 issu$ = beaks or pik$    
%oes n to pass two in*es1 & aft] ?is "t 
a broad r\nd-to$ %oe began to appe>4    
,s(t high boots to ! top ( ! ?igh1 )    
fold$ top1 belong to ?is c5tury1 z well 
z ! fa%ionable boot to ! calf4 ,! sword 
or dagg] 0 c>ri$ t[>ds ! front or side1 
& a small dagg] across ! belt at ! back4
 ,! p\* or purse 0 also us$ z a dagg]   
support4     ,,*apt] ,v   ,,sixte5?     
,,c5tury4 ,,"* ,,( ,,trimm+s4  ,be=e !  
#af? c5tury we f9d ! art ( decoration 9 
co/ume _h be5 conf9$ *iefly to appli$   
ornam5tal b&s at ! neck1 wai/1 & bord]s 
( skirt & cloak4 ,!y _h up till ?is "t  

utilis$1 ) great arti/ry ( design 7no   
d\bt p>tly due to ! h]aldic /udy71 !    
patt]ns ( ! f9ely decorat$ damasks &    
velvets4 ,! c\nt] col\r effects &       
relative proportions1 su* z a           
small-patt]n$1 dull-col\r$ silk sett+ (f
 a l>ge full-col\r$ design 0 ably       
consid]$1 z well z ! introduction ( a   
nicely-balanc$ black note or sett+1 :i* 
prov$ ^! design]s 7 highly skill$ 9     
judgm5t ( /yle4 ,!y also discov]$ ! art 
( giv+ enri*m5t & lightness to ! effect 
by means ( ! v>i\s s]rat$ edg+s to !    
mat]ials1 :i* also gave a flutt] to !   
movem5t4 ,a pref]5ce ( lac+ = fa/5+ add$
 to ! *>m ( ! dress1 b ! long r[s (     
close buttons 7 also a feature ( ! cl++ 
robes1 ! clasps & broo*es1 neck-*a9s1   
girdle1 belt1 & wallet be+ fur!r v      
important items ( enri*m5t to ! effect4 
,on com+ to ! #af? c5tury we ent] :at   
may be t]m$ ! sla%$ & puff$ p]iod4 ,!   
sleeves ( ,h5ry ,,viii's reign are v ri*
 9 design & jewel-sett+1 ! design ( !   
sleeve z 9 ,fig4 #dj giv+ a /rik+       

effect1 ! angle ( ! top sleeve be+ held 
out by ! /iffness ( ! "u silk "o4 ,!    
neck-sett+ & fe/oon+ ( ! jewel-*a9s play
 an important "p 9 ! design on ! pla9   
velvet corset bodices4 ,! head-dress is 
"o ( ! mo/ rem>kable1 & gave a great    
*ance = individual arrangem5t 9 b9d+ !  
back fall to set at v>i\s angles on !   
%ap$ cap piece1 comb9+ sev]ity ) a big  
loose drap+ :i* is extremely            
picturesque4 ,) ,edw>d ,,vi comm5ces :at
 may be t]m$ ! braid$ p]iod (           
decoration4 ,?is latt] came suitably ) !
 /iff] corsage & set up4 ,m>y's reign 0 
n ( attractive sev]ity1 b ! ov]-robe ) !
 %ort circul> sleeve at ! %\ld] & high  
coll> 0 a graceful creation1 & 0 reta9$ 
by _m z late z #afcj4 ,!re 0 little to  
admire 9 ! ,elizabe?an age z reg>ds     
design1 except ! beauty ( ! mat]ials & !
 exquisite ne$lework4 ,! proportions ( !
 dresses 7 exce$+ly ugly1 & ! pleat$    
f>?+ale an absurdity4 ,! male dress _h  
mu* int]e/ & (t5 beauty ( sett+ &       
decorative effect4 ,! sla%$ mat]ials    

gave a brok5 quality to :at w\ld o!rwise
 be a h>d effect1 & x also clev]ly      
introduc$ ano!r col\r *ange ?r\gh !     
suit4 ,!re w be f\nd _m examples 9 ^!   
illu/rations ( ! prick$ & punctur$      
designs on lea!r-"w :i* are wor? exam9+ 
= mod]n treatm5t4  ,quilt+ & pleat+ 7   
ably comb9$ ) ! braid+1 & we see ! clev]
 adaptation ( /raw patt]ns sewn on 7a   
feature ( ! late #af? c5tury71 :i*      
h>monis$ ) ! gold braid+s or gold lace1 
or resembl$ ! same effect4  ,! trimm+s (
 braid 7 (t5 enri*$ ) preci\s or        
ornam5tal /ones & pe>ls1 ! /oma*]1 wai/1
 front b& d[n ! skirt1 & bord]s ( mo/   
g>m5ts4 ,! po9ts ( sla%es 7 (t5 held by 
jewell$ sett+s1 & ! long sla%es 7 caught
 "h & !re ) ! same4  ,ano!r important   
item 0 ! black /it*work on l951         
sometimes m+l$ ) gold1 s highly priz$ n[
 = its beauty ( design & effect1 b      
beg9n+ probably 9 ! reign ( ,h5ry ,,vii4
  ,%ort coats ( ?is type ( ! ,elizabe?an
 age are m>vels ( skill1 & _m caps are  
/ill 9 exi/5ce4 ,f9e l95 ruffs & coll>s 

7 (t5 edg$ ) ?is "w1 z well z ) gold    
lace4  ,jackets & caps1 bo? male &      
female1 be>+ geometrical & scroll       
designs 9 gold1 fill$ 9 ) col\r$        
ne$lework ( fl[]s1 birds1 or animals h  
happily be5 pres]v$ = our admiration4   
,sequ9s appe> on "w f ,h5ry ,,viii's "t1
 & 7 mu* appreciat$ by ! ,elizabe?an    
work]s1 :o no d\bt f\nd ! trembl+ glitt]
 add$ mu* to ! gold-lace sett+s &       
delicate veil+s3 long pe>-%ap$ sequ9s 7 
fav\r$ = ?is4 ,sleeves 7 (t5 sep>ate1 & 
c\ld be *ang$ at w4   ,,sixte5?         
,,c5tury4 ,,h5ry ,,viii4 ,,female4  ,!  
hair at ?is p]iod 0 p>t$ 9 ! c5tre &    
ga!r$ into a plait at ! back2 x 0 also  
se5 r full & wav$ at ! sides ( ! head1 &
 a small circlet 0 (t5 c>ri$ across !   
br[4 ,a cap ( velvet or gold brocade1   
sometimes ) a padd$ front1 curv$ ov] !  
e>s to ! neck1 keep+ ! %ape ( ! head4   
,ov] ?is aga9 a velvet fall 0 turn$ back
 f ! front or %ap$ z 9 ! illu/ration1   
rea*+ to ! %\ld]4 ,^! falls 7 also b\nd 
into set-out %apes1 :i* gave _m         

picturesque effects4  ,dress _h n[ tak5 
a new phase1 & ! set bodice became a    
la/+ feature4 ,at ?is p]iod ! wai/ 0 r  
%ort1 & ! neck1 arrang$ 9 a l[ squ>e or 
r\nd =m1 g5]ally fill$ 9 ) ga!r$ lawn4  
,! upp] "p ( ! sleeve 0 (t5 divid$ f !  
bodice by ties ) lawn puffs1 & 0 made 9 
a full circul> =m1 sla%$ or puff$ & b&$1
 ) a tight-fitt+ sleeve on ! =e>m4      
,ano!r type divid$ ! upp] & l[] "p ( !  
arm at ! %\ld] & elb[1 ! =e>m be+       
effectively ti$ or lac$1 & ! "u lawn    
sleeve pull$ ?r\gh2 small sla%+s are    
also se5 on ^!4 ,at times a bell-%ap$   
sleeve 0 worn1 %[+ a sla%$ or puff$ "u  
"o4 ,_m dresses 7 /ill cut 9 "o1 & 7 (t5
 high-neck$2 ) ^! usually a girdle or b&
 ( drap]y 0 worn1 & "s skirts op5$ up ! 
front1 %[+ a ri* und]skirt4             
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #dj4--,sixte5?     
c5tury1 #bnd qu>t]4  ,illu/ration3      
,,fig4 #da4--,p]iod ,h5ry ,,viii4  ,full
 skirts1 heavily pleat$ at ! wai/1 7    
worn 9 ! e>li] "p ( ?is reign1 b&$ 9    
v>y+ wid?s ( designs to ab\t ! knee2 b a

 new developm5t 0 9 progress--a /iff1   
bell-%ap$ dress1 set on hoops ov] a ri* 
und]skirt :i* usually bore a jewell$ b& 
d[n ! c5tre1 ! upp] "o be+ divid$ 9     
front to display ?is feature4 ,! bodice 
) ?is type becomes long] 9 ! wai/1 & 0  
made on a /iff corset4 ,gloves are      
occasionally se51 s]rat$ at ! cuff-end4 
,%oes ( ! sla%$ "* & squ>e toes 7 also  
worn by ! ladies1 b _m pref]r$ a %oe ) a
 mod]ately r\nd$ toe4  ,! fir/ m5tion ( 
a lea!r umbrella is #afaa1 b ?is is a   
r>e in/ance1 z !y 7 n 9 use till ! #ah? 
c5tury "h1 ?\gh !y are not$ 9 cont95tal 
pr9ts dur+ ! #ag? c5tury4  ,illu/ration3
 ,,fig4 #db4--,sixte5?-c5tury modes1 #a/
 half ,h5ry ,,viii4   ,,sixte5?         
,,c5tury4 ,,h5ry ,,viii4 ,,male4  ,!    
modes at ! end ( ! la/ c5tury n[        
develop$ into a heavi] "* ( design4 ,!  
long hair soon began to be closely cut1 
& a %ort be>d came into fa%ion4 ,a flat 
type ( hat 0 worn1 ) s]rat$ brim1 or    
tabs :i* c\ld be turn$ d[n at times1 &  
o!rs 7 kept 9 place by a lac+ cord ?r\gh

 holes4 ,!re 0 also a flat ,tam o'      
,%ant] %ape1 g5]ally worn well tilt$ on 
"o side1 & among/ ! upp] classes mo/ly  
adorn$ ) fea!rs4  ,! ,v-%ap$ coll>1 or  
op5+ to ! belt1 0 /ill reta9$ on ! j]k91
 & pla9 or pleat$ skirts are se51 also a
 squ>e close-fitt+ ve/1 ) a l[ squ>e    
neck1 fill$ ) ga!r$ lawn1 or "o ) a high
 neck & %ort coll>1 on :i* a v small    
ruff appe>$ = ! fir/ "t1 & at ! wri/ z  
well4 ,^! 7 n[ decorat$ ) long sla%es or
 ga!r$ puffs3 h]aldic design 0 /ill se5 
on ! brea/1 & ev5 p>ti-col\r 0 worn1 b  
?is "* 0 n[ treat$ m by decorat+ )      
col\r$ b&s on ! tunics or tights4       
,illu/ration3 ,plate ,x4--      7a7     
,black ,velvet ,bodice4 #afjj-be4       
7b7 ,five ,embroid]$ ,wai/coats4 ,betwe5
 #afij & #ahjj4  ,patt]n1 see p4 #bib4  
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #dc4--,p]iod ,h5ry 
,,viii4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4           
#dd4--;,cap %apes4 ,p]iod ,h5ry ,,viii4 
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #de4--,v>iety (    
%apes & sla%+4 ,h5ry ,,viii4  ,long     
coats 7 /ill worn ( ! %ape describ$ at !

 end ( ! #ae? c5tury1 b a %ort surcoat 0
 ! mode1 rea*+ j bel[ ! knee1           
sleeveless1 or ) ! v>i\s hang+ sleeves (
 ?is p]iod1 ! fronts usually turn$ back 
to =m a wide coll>1 ei!r r\nd or squ>e 9
 %ape on ! %\ld]1 or at times fall+ to a
 deep squ>e at ! back4  ,! sleeves 7    
full 9 ! upp] "p1 tight5+ to ! wri/1    
sometimes op5 up to ! elb[ & lac$1 or !y
 7 pleat$ into a full r\nd %ape at !    
%\ld]4 ,puffs & sla%+s increas$ 9 ^!    
designs1 & by #aebj we f9d ! sleeves    
mo/ly divid$ into puff$ & sla%$ =ms1 :i*
 grew to fanta/ic proportions4  ,v %ort1
 tight bree*es or trunks1 ) a front flap
 or codpiece1 7 decorat$ to mat* ! body 
design & col\r s*emes2 !y increas$ 9    
l5g? to ! knee1 or j bel[1 dur+ ?is     
reign1 & usually f9i%$ 9 a s]rat$ roll4 
,illu/ration3 ,plate ,,xi4--#af ,lea!r  
,boots & ,%oes4 ,betwe5 #aece & #ahfj4  
#a4 #agdj-aghj4      #b4 #aece-aeej4    
#c4 #afhj-agjj4      #d4 #afde-afij4    
#e4 #affe-afhe4      #f4 #afij-agaj4    
#g4 #ahde-ahfj4      #h4 #agij-ahbj4    

#i4 #affe-afgj4     #aj4 #ahjj-ahbj4    
#aa4 #ahbj-ahdj4     #ab4          #ac4 
#ahae-ahej4     #ad4 #agfj-aghj4        
#ae4 #afej-afgj4     #af4 #afcj-affj4   
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #df4--;,footwe>1   
#aeaj-aedj4  ,%oes 7 ( ! squ>e =m1 "s v 
%ort 9 front1 held on by a /rap across !
 in/ep1 o!rs ) fronts to ! in/ep4 ,!    
corn]s 7 (t5 br\ght out to a po9t on ea*
 side ( ! toes1 & ! mode ( decorat+ )   
sla%+ & punctures made !m v int]e/+4 ,! 
sides ( ^! %oes are v l[1 f #c_/d to #a 
in*1 & no heels are se54 ,a big1 r\nd   
%ape 0 also fav\r$1 :i* increas$ 9 wid? 
till a proclamation =bade x exce$+ #f   
in*es4 ,*a9s 7 /ill a decorative feature
 r\nd ! neck1 & ! belt c>ri$ a sword &  
p\*1 or1 among/ ! work+ classes1 o!r    
necessities4   ,,sixte5? ,,c5tury4 ,,!  
,,reigns ,,( ,,edw>d ,,vi ,,& ,,m>y4    
,,female4  ,9 ! reign ( ,edw>d ,,vi1 :i*
 0 s %ort1 z also 9 t ( ,m>y1 !re 0     
little "t to =m a real "*4 ,^! reigns =m
 develop+ l9ks to ! ,elizabe?an era1 s  
,i h tak5 !m 9 "o *apt]4  ,illu/ration3 

,,fig4 #dg4  ,,fig4 #dh4  ,,fig4 #di4   
,elizabe?an modes4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4
 #ej4--;,co/umes1 #aeed-aefh4           
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ea4--;,co/umes1   
#aefh-afaj4  ,) ,edw>d ,,vi ! same %ap$ 
cap is se5 z t ( ,h5ry ,,viii1 & )      
,m>y's accession1 ! head-dress is curv$ 
to ! head 9 a l mann]1 b x n[ became m (
 a hat =m & took a brim curv$ 9 on !    
br[2 ?is 0 (t5 worn ov] ! little tight  
curv$ cap1 or %[$ ! hair wav$ out at !  
sides1 (t5 nett$ ) gold & pe>ls4 ,a fall
 ( velvet1 silk1 or veil+ 0 /ill reta9$ 
till ! v high ruff or coll> came 9 !    
,elizabe?an days4 ,a small-cr[n$ hat1 ) 
a broo* & fea!r 9 front1 & a full ga!r$ 
cr[n came 9 be=e ,elizabe?'s "t1 :5 we  
see _m ecc5tric %apes1 su* z ! tall hat 
) a fea!r at ! side1 & ! wit*-l hats    
t[>ds ! end ( h] reign4  ,! bodice1 :i* 
became long] 9 ! fir/ reign1 /ill reta9$
 ! full bell$ ov]sleeve or ! full puff$ 
sleeve to ! end ( ,m>y's reign1 also !  
same squ>e neck %ape ) curv$-up front1  
n[ (t5 fill$ ) silk quilt$ ) pe>ls up to

 ! neck4 ,high-neck$ dresses set ) a    
small ruff became g5]al 9 ,m>y's reign4 
,we also f9d a tight sleeve ga!r$ 9 a   
circul> puff at ! %\ld] or set 9 a roll$
 epaulet4  ,! same %ap$ skirt ( ! hoop$ 
bell =m 7sometimes v pleat$ 9 ,m>y's    
reign7 or divid$ 9 front to %[ !        
und]skirt z describ$ "u ,h5ry ,,viii1 0 
worn4  ,! %ort squ>e %ape & ! heavy r\nd
 %oe is se5 9 ,m>y's reign1 b fa%ion !n 
pref]r$ a r po9t$ oval %oe1 well up !   
in/ep ) high] sides1 decorat$ )         
*>act]i/ic sla%+4 ,gloves are se5 9 _m  
portraits up to ?is p]iod1 b ( a pla9   
make m9us embroid]y1 & a circul> fan (  
fea!rs 0 c>ri$4   ,,sixte5? ,,c5tury4   
,,! ,,reigns ,,( ,,edw>d ,,vi ,,& ,,m>y4
 ,,male4  ,) ,edw>d ,,vi & ,m>y a m     
ref9$ & sob] type ( /yle set 94 ,! hair 
0 n[ worn %ort & comb$ backw>ds4 ,! flat
 hat ( ! e>li] %apes la/$ to ,elizabe?'s
 reign2 becom+ small] 9 wid?1 ) a       
turn$-d[n1 curv$ brim & a full] cr[n    
encircl$ ) a gold b& or set ) a fea!r   
worn at ! "r-h& side4 ,a small          

tight-fitt+ r\nd hat ) a roll$ brim & a 
fea!r 9 front is also ( ?is lat] mode4  
,?r\gh ^! reigns a small squ>e turn$-ov]
 coll> or a v small ruff set on a high  
coll> came into use1 :i* increas$ to a  
l>g] ruff 9 ,m>y's reign4 ,a small ruff 
0 also worn at ! wri/1 _m ( ^! 7 edg$ ) 
black-/it* designs4 ,! heavy puff$      
sleeves became tight & />t$ f a small   
epaulet or puff$ roll2 "s ( ^! _h a     
small cuff at ! wri/ or a frill4 ,braid$
 designs became v elaborate on a        
close-fitt+1 padd$1 & r\nd-%ap$ j]k9 ) a
 %ort skirt1 :i* appe>$ 9 ! fir/ reign1 
& ?is skirt 0 (t5 long en\gh to fa/5 j  
"u ! codpiece4 ,%ort trunks at times    
worn half-way d[n ! ?igh 7 sla%$1 b&$1 &
 puff$ = decoration4 ,no p>ti-col\r 0 n[
 worn or /rip$ effects on tights1 except
 among/ ! soldi]s 9 ! reign ( ,m>y4     
,%ort capes to ! l5g? ( ! trunks ( a    
pla9 r\nd =m slop+ f ! %\ld]s1 or a     
squ>e type ) a high squ>e coll> & loose 
sleeves1 are se52 a tunic also ( ! e>li]
 "* ) a ,v-%ap$ coll> & full sleeve     

comes into ?is reign1 & we note ! e>li] 
types ( %oes m+l+ ) ! new] po9t$        
oval-%ap$ %oe :i* n[ cont9u$ = ! rema9d]
 ( ?is c5tury4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4    
#eb4--;,co/umes1 #aeed-aehj4            
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ec4--;,co/umes1   
#aegj-afje4  ,9 ,m>y's reign ! r\nd-%ap$
 d\blet began to protrude f ! brea/ to !
 wai/ 9 a r\nd =m ) slightly long]      
skirts or small tabs1 :ile ! trunks     
assum$ l>ge circul> proportions & 7     
sometimes set on tight knee-bree*es4 ,! 
capes rema9$ ab\t ! same4   ,,sixte5?   
,,c5tury4 ,,elizabe?4 ,,female4  ,!     
co/ly spl5d\r ( attire is well kn[n 9   
,elizabe?'s reign1 :i* began ) ! same =m
 ( hair & head-dress z ) ,m>y1 ! hat be+
 set r high] on ! hair4 ,! ruffs1 :i* 7 
import$ already />*$ f ,holl&1 assum$   
l>g] proportions & complications :5 !   
me?ods ( />*+ became kn[n 9 ,engl& ab\t 
#aefd4 ,/[ describes ruffs gr[+ to a    
qu>t] ( a y>d deep2 ^! 7 no d\bt        
support$ by piccalilloes1 ?\gh !y are n 
actually m5tion$ till aft] #afjj1 b !y  

surely came ) ! fan-%ap$ /ructures ( ^! 
lat] days4 ,:ite1 r$1 blue or purple    
col\rs 7 us$ 9 ! />*+1 & yell[ 9 ! latt]
 days ( ?is c5tury4 ,! introduction (   
?is curv$ fanlike coll> sett+ became a  
gr& & complicat$ feature "r into ! #ag? 
c5tury4 ,make up became v app>5t on !   
faces at ?is "t1 = ,bi%op ,hall c5sur$ !
 fa%ion 9 a *oice s]mon1 say+1 ,he> ?is1
 ye pla/]-fac$ ,jezabels6 ,god w "o day 
wa% !m ) fire & brim/one4  ,illu/ration3
 ,,fig4 #ed4--;,elizabe?an modes4       
,illu/ration3 ,plate ,,xii4--      7a7  
,lady's ,outdoor ,co/ume4 #aghe-ie4     
7b7 ,co/ume4 ,e>ly #ah? ,c5tury4     7c7
 ,silk ,brocade ,dress4 #agfj-hj4       
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ee4               
#aehe-afaj     #afjj-afbj     #aeie-afje
     #afje-afae     #aehi-afjj  ,!      
bodices grew v long & po9t$ 9 ! wai/1 ! 
neck sett+ be+ mo/ly treat$ 9 ! same ,v 
%ape1 ev5 op5 d[n to ! wai/ po9t 0 fill$
 ) a decorat$ /oma*]1 & a deep oval-%ap$
 neck 0 se5 at ! end ( ! reign4 ,an out]
 op5$ sleeve 0 n[ fav\r$1 caught 9 front

 at ! elb[ & hang+ to ! knee ov] a      
fairly tight und]sleeve ) a turn$-back  
lace cuff or ruffle4 ,) ?is came !      
high-set fan ruff on its wood5 support  
at ! back ( ! neck1 & consequ5tly a     
high] coiffure4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4   
#ef4  ,nos4 #a1 #b1 #c1 #aedj-ej1 & o!r 
%oe =ms worn 9 ! reign ( ,elizabe?4  ,! 
same "* ( skirt cont9u$ z 9 ! e>li]     
reigns on hoops at ! l[] "p1 b !y became
 mu* full] & r\nd] at ! hips till ab\t  
#aeij1 :5 ! full pleat$ skirt 0 support$
 on a f>?+ale or hoop :i* 0 set ) a     
ga!r$ circle 9 ! same g(f]$ design z !  
ruffs at ! edge4 ,^! rea*$ _! extreme   
dim5sions at ! end ( ?is reign1 :5 !    
sleeves also assum$ a full padd$ %ape & 
l>ge epaulets also came 94 ,an ov]dress 
) a full pleat$ back 7l ! ,watteau      
dress7 0 9 fa%ion f ! middle ( ?is      
reign1 & we are lucky to possess "s     
specim5s 9 ! ,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum 
( :i* ,i am able to give ! dim5sions4   
,small look+-glasses 7 c>ri$1 & 7 also  
inset on ! r\nd fea!r fans4 ,p]fum$     

gloves1 elaborately embroid]$1 7        
introduc$ dur+ ?is reign4 ,silk /ock+s 7
 worn by ,elizabe? = ! fir/ "t 9 #aefj1 
& wor/$ /ock+s 7 made 9 ,engl& 9 #aefd4 
,corsets ( pi]c$ /eel are se5 9 ,france 
f ! late #af? & #ag? c5tury1 & may h be5
 9 use "h1 ?\gh wood1 cane1 & :alebone 7
 ! *ief supports4 ,%oes became n>r[ &   
ev5 po9t$1 :ile ! heel began to increase
 to consid]able heights4 ,! busk9s (    
,que5 ,elizabe? n[ at ,ox=d are rais$ to
 #c in*es 9 height by ! aid ( a ?ick    
sole1 & %oes ,a & ,b1 ,fig4 #fa1 are    
also report$ to h belong$ to h]4 ,*op9s 
= height5+ ! /ature 7 9 use on !        
,cont95t1 b ,i believe did n appe> "h2 b
 v ?ick cork$ soles & high heels 7      
introduc$ = ?is purpose4  ,illu/ration3 
,plate ,,xiii4--      7a7 ,silk ,coat4  
#agce-ee4     7b7 ,brocade ,silk ,coat4 
#agde-fj4     7c7 ,embroid]$ ,clo?      
,coat4 #aggj-ij4  ,patt]n1 see p4 #cjh4 
,,sixte5? ,,c5tury4 ,,elizabe?4 ,,male4 
,9 ?is reign a v neat small-po9t$ be>d 0
 ! fa%ion1 ! hair be+ bru%$ up z high z 

possible & (t5 full$ out at ! sides1 & a
 *ic appe>ance 0 s\ght aft]4 ,a /iff    
bell$ top-hat ) an egret at ! "r side   
made its fir/ appe>ance ) a curv$ brim1 
also "o ( a tap]$ %ape ) a smalli% r\nd 
brim1 & ano!r v small r\nd hat ) a curv$
 brim1 a clasp & fea!r be+ mo/ly worn on
 ! front ( ea*4 ,! brims ( all ! hats   
began to enl>ge at ! end ( ! c5tury :5 !
 v high cr[n$ wide brimm$ hat made its  
appe>ance1 sometimes ) a peak$ top1 &   
beav] is fir/ m5tion$ 9 _! make4  ,l>ge 
circul> ruffs became all ! rage besides 
! small turn$-ov] coll>4 ,! r\nd d\blet 
) protrud+ front became tight] at !     
wai/1 ! protub]ance tak+ a pun*like     
po9t$ =m curv+ to almo/ betwe5 ! legs & 
slop+ %>ply up ! hips to ! back4 ,?is 0 
set ) a v %ort tab or tabs on padd$     
bree*es tight5+ to ! knee1 :i* usually  
_h v small trunks on ! upp] "p1 & l>ge1 
/uff$ trunk hose also appe>$4 ,! /ock+s 
7 br\ght ov] ^! 9 a roll above ! knee4  
,up to ?is "t tights 7 made ( wool1     
wor/$1 f9e clo?1 frieze1 & canvas4 ,!   

sla%+s1 pleat+1 & ga!r+s ( ! p]iod 7 ( a
 mu* neat] "*1 & pun*$ patt]ns & prick$ 
mat]ials came into use4  ,close-fitt+   
high boots1 g5]ally ) s]rat$ tops & ?ick
 soles curv+ into a %ort heel1 are      
features ( ?is "t4 ,! %oe _h a long     
front decorat$ ) sla%+s 7(t5 caught )   
jewels71 & an oval toe :i* became almo/ 
po9t$ 9 ! la/ ye>s ( ?is c5tury4 ,a %ort
 top-boot ris+ to ! calf 0 also 9 use1  
mo/ly ) a little fur edge at ! top1 & ^!
 7 (t5 prick$ ) patt]ns4  ,illu/ration3 
,,fig4 #eg4--;,elizabe?an modes4        
,,*apt] ,,vi  ,,! ,,"* ,,( ,,trimm+s    
,,?r\gh ,,! ,,sev5te5? ,,c5tury4        
,,james ,i4  ,! braid+ & small sla%+    
cont9u$ ( a simil> "* to ! end ( !      
,elizabe?an age4 ,! sla%+ n[ began to be
 treat$ ) a l>g] effect & less          
elaboration1 b prick+ & pun*+ 7 /ill mu*
 us$ = enri*+ surfaces4 ,an improv$ /yle
 ( design 0 evid5t4  ,! female bodice 0 
arrang$ ) a long /oma*]1 (t5 %ap$ into  
curv$ =ms at ! po9t1 & ?is 0 set )      
jewels or embroid]y1 o!rwise ! bodice 0 

decorat$ ) braid+ & jewels z 9          
,elizabe?'s reign4 ,! full sleeves 7    
embelli%$ ) small sla%es 7mak+ diamond  
squ>es71 puffs1 or prick$ & pun*$       
designs4 ,a turn$-up cuff or ruff (     
po9t$ lace f9i%$ ! wri/1 braid$ epaulets
 =m$ a beautiful feature ( ! effect1 & !
 front ( ! und]skirt 0 decorat$ ) a     
jewell$ b& or conv5tional design1 z 0   
also ! bord] ( ! ov]skirt4 ,caps ( an   
int]e/+ curv$ =m beautifully embroid]$ 9
 gold & col\r$ silks are se51 ( :i* ,i  
give patt]ns2 also loose jackets ( !    
same "w 7 9 use :5 n 9 full dress4      
,,*>les ,i4  ,_m beautifully embroid]$  
caps1 j]k9s1 jackets1 & %irts are se5 at
 ?is p]iod 9 gold & black or col\r$     
silks4 ,sla%+s ( ?is reign1 ?\gh 9      
fa%ion1 _h comm5c$ to g out2 & ^? reta9$
 7 ( a l>ge "*1 mo/ly f ! neck or %\ld] 
to ! brea/4 ,! fav\r$ sleeves 7 cut into
 /raps to ! elb[ or wri/1 & 7 (t5 edg$ )
 braid1 ei!r side meet+ toge!r & l9+ !  
=e>m1 ! body be+ treat$ 9 ! same way4 ,!
 op5-front$ sleeve 0 set ) buttons &    

loops or long braid$ buttonholes ) fray$
 or knott$ ends1 ?\gh ^! 7 n g5]ally    
fa/5$4 ,! tight und]sleeve 0 (t5 set )  
gold or silv] n>r[ braids d[n ! front & 
back seams1 & close l9es ( small braids 
horizontally r\nd ! arm1 or v]tically :5
 ! out] sleeve 0 treat$ horizontally1   
?is gave a beautiful c\nt]*ang$ effect4 
,_m ( ! ladies' caps ( ?is "t _h        
beautiful gold scrolls1 ) fl[]s & birds 
embroid]$ 9 col\r$ silks1 also loose    
jackets ( ! same 7 9 use4 ,! bodice 0   
b&$ ) braids or lace on ! front & seams1
 & ! /oma*] 0 (t5 ( f9e embroid]y2 set  
rosettes or b[s 7 plac$ at ! wai/4 ,o!r 
f9i%+ effects ( coll> or sleeve1 & !    
button & buttonhole decorations 7 made  
important features on bo? male & female 
sleeves1 & ev5 d[n ! front ( ! out]     
skirt :5 x 0 n treat$ ) lace4 ,r$ heels 
to %oes began to be worn & cont9u$ to ! 
end ( ! #ah? c5tury 9 m>k$ fav\r4   ,,! 
,,commonweal?4  ,dur+ ?is %ort p]iod !  
"* & plac+ ( braid+ 0 ! same z 9 ! latt]
 "p ( la/ reign2 sla%+ _h almo/         

completely gone out1 except = ! treatm5t
 ( "s ladies' sleeves cut into b&s4 ,a v
 sob] effect 0 assum$ 9 col\r s*emes1   
besides a pla9] treatm5t 9 decoration1 &
 a deep pla9 coll> or a small turn-ov]  
"o 0 *iefly worn by ! m51 :ile ! hat ( !
 ,puritan rose to an absurd height1 ) a 
wide flat brim4   ,,*>les ,,ii4  ,?is   
may be nam$ ! p]iod ( ribbon trimm+s1   
?\gh braid+ 0 treat$ 9 broad l9es on !  
%ort jackets & sleeves1 & d[n ! sides ( 
! bree*es4 ,a pref]5ce is %[n = gold &  
silv] lace1 or among/ ! elite purfl$    
silk edges2 ! new mode be+ a decoration 
( gr\ps ( ribbon loops plac$ ab\t ! suit
 or dress4 ,! notable feature ) ! female
 dress 0 ! ga!r+ ( drap]y by means (    
jewell$ clasps1 & gr\ps ( ribbon loops 7
 also us$1 z ) ! male dress4 ,! edges ( 
! mat]ials 7 sometimes cut into scallop$
 or classic =ms1 & a v simple volum9\s  
"* 0 fa%ion's aim4   ,,james ,,ii ,,&   
,,william ,,& ,,m>y4  ,) ! lat] type (  
long-skirt$ coat :i* began 9 ,*>les     
,,ii's reign1 a heavy /yle ( braid+ &   

button+ came into vogue1 all ! seams ( !
 coat besides ! pockets & cuffs & fronts
 be+ braid$1 :i* fa%ion cont9u$ to ! end
 ( ! c5tury4 ,_m coats began to be      
embroid]$ 9 ! lat] reign1 & wai/coats   
became a special feature = ! display (  
f9e ne$lecraft on ! fronts & pockets1   
:ile quilt+ or imitations ( x 9 v>i\s   
ne$lework designs are (t5 se54 ,9 !     
female dress a m elaborate int]e/ 0 aga9
 tak5 9 ! /oma*]s & ! jewell$ clasp+s1  
:ile l5g?s ( s(t silk ga!r$ into long   
puffs (t5 edg$ ! out] skirts or 7 us$ 9 
small] trimm+s1 & classical %ap+s ( !   
edges ( mat]ials & sleeves are (t5 se51 
also heavy b&s ( ri* embroid]y bord]$ ! 
und]skirt or tra94   ,,sev5te5?         
,,c5tury4 ,,james ,i4 ,,female4  ,we f9d
 mu* ! same high =ms ( set-up head-dress
 cont9u+ 9 fa%ion z 9 ! lat] ye>s (     
,elizabe?'s reign2 b ! hair began to    
take a full] %ape1 r r\nd1 done up 9    
tight frizzl$ curls1 ) ! usual          
decorations ( jewels1 pe>ls1 or set b[s 
( ?is p]iod4 ,hats ) high cr[ns & small 

/raight brims1 ) an upright set ( small 
plumes1 gradually assum$ a l>g] brimm$  
"*--(t5 turn$ up on "o side4 ,! same    
absurd pleat$ hoop1 ) its hang+ skirt1  
cont9u$ = "s "t 7worn r %ort72 b we also
 see ! long] & v full hoop$-out skirt1 )
 an ov]skirt op5$ 9 ! front4 ,! /oma*]  
front became mu* enl>g$ dur+ ?is reign1 
_m hav+ %ap$ designs at ! po9t4 ,mo/    
bodices took a v deep curv$ front at !  
neck1 & l>ge padd$ sleeves n>r[$ at !   
wri/ /ill cont9u$1 besides ! high fan   
coll> at ! back ( ! neck1 & l>ge ruffs 7
 us$ by _m4 ,!re also appe>$1 lat] 9 !  
reign1 a /iff r\nd coll>1 set high 9 !  
neck1 cut (f /raight across ! front1 & !
 bodice took a v l[ squ>e-cut neck1 ) a 
rais$ curv$ %ape at ! c5tre ( neck4 ,!  
tight] sleeve 0 also worn ?r\gh\t ?is   
"t1 ) ! ov]dress & sleeve hang+ almo/ to
 ! gr\nd1 :i* (t5 _h a v angul> cuff4 ,a
 little lat] "s sleeves began to be     
ga!r$ at int]vals into puffy =ms4 ,!    
wai/ also %[$ signs ( %ort5+4           
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #eh4  ,illu/ration3

 ,,fig4 #ei4--;,co/umes4 ,p]iod1 ,james 
,i4  ,%oes ) r\nd$ toes & lat*ets hold+ 
l>ge rosettes 7 *iefly worn1 & heels (  
v>i\s heights are se54 ,*op9s1 /ill worn
 on ! ,cont95t1 d n seem to h appe>$ "h4
   ,,sev5te5? ,,c5tury4 ,,james ,i4     
,,male4  ,! hat 0 ( ! high-cr[n$ type1  
p]haps high] ?an 9 ! la/ reign4 ,! brim 
_h broad5$1 & fea!rs 7 plac$ upw>ds     
fanta/ically at ! back & sides ( cr[n4  
,brims 7 (t5 fa/5$ up on ! "r side ) a  
jewel2 o!rwise a b& 0 buckl$ 9 front4 ,!
 hair 0 n[ all[$ to fall long] aga91 & a
 po9t$ or squ>e-%ap$ be>d ) a bru%$-up  
m\/a*e 0 ! mode4 ,ruffs bo? l>ge & small
 surr\nd$ ! neck1 & a flat fan-%ap$     
coll> 0 se5 9 ! e>li] ye>s4             
,illu/ration3 ,plate ,,xiv4--      7a7  
,embroid]$ ,silk ,dress ) ,panni]4      
#agfe-hj4     7b7 ,brocade ,dress &     
,quilt$ ,petticoat4 #agej-fe4  ,patt]n (
 bodice1 p4 #cbb4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 
#fj4--;,co/umes4 ,p]iod ,james ,i4  ,!  
j]k9 0 close fitt+ & ! l5g? ( ! wai/ m  
normal1 ) less t5d5cy to be+ tight5$ 91 

& n s deep 9 ! front po9t1 s z to set   
bett] ov] ! v full trunks or bree*es4 ,!
 squ>e tabs ( ! j]k9 increas$ 9 size1 & 
soon =m$ l>ge flaps divid$ into ?ree or 
f\r1 to ! c5tre ( ! back4 ,sleeves 7    
fairly tight & />t$ f slightly l>g]     
epaulets1 & 7 usually set at ! wri/1    
ei!r ) a small ruff or turn$-up lawn    
cuff1 edg$ ) lace4  ,! trunks 7 padd$ 9 
a v full %ape & 7 mu* long]1 j above !  
knee4 ,also full padd$-out bree*es tap]+
 to ! knee or j above1 :]e a l>ge tie & 
b[ hung at ! side1 & full squ>e bree*es 
n ti$ 91 are also a feature ( ^! days1  
usually b&$ ) wide braids at ends &     
sides4 ,upright pockets 7 made on ei!r  
side t[>ds ! front1 ab\t two in*es f !  
side seams4 ,!y fa/5$ up ! front 9 a    
pleat$ fold1 _m be+ decorat$ ) pun*$1   
prick$1 or sla%$ design ( a smalli% "*4 
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #fa4--,%apes (     
,%oes f #aeij-afej4  ,cloaks 7 worn     
long] to ! knee1 reta9+ ! same %apes &  
braid decoration z 9 ! ,elizabe?an      
p]iod1 & hang+ sleeves 7 /ill worn on   

!m1 z well z on "s ( ! j]k9s4  ,%oes    
became full] & r\nd] at ! toes1 mo/ly ) 
?ick welt$ soles & %ort heels1 or none4 
,!y 7 fa/5$ ) a l>ge rosette ( gold lace
 or ribbon on ! front1 & ! lat*ets 7 set
 back to %[ an op5 side4 ,! top-boots 7 
close fitt+ & took squ>] toes2 ! spur   
flap be+ r small4 ,beautifully embroid]$
 clocks are se5 on ! tights & /ock+s (  
?is p]iod4   ,,sev5te5? ,,c5tury4       
,,*>les ,i4 ,,female4  ,! hair 0 n[     
all[$ to fall 9 r+lets r\nd ! back &    
sides1 ) a few flat curls on ! br[1 & a 
b[ & pe>ls 7 caught 9 at ! sides4 ,%ort 
fea!rs may also be not$ 9 use4 ,a plait 
0 (t5 coil$ at ! back aft] #afcj4       
,illu/ration3 ,plate ,,xv4--      7a7   
,:ite ,clo? ,coat4 #agge-ij4     7b7    
,silk ,dress4 #agdj-fj4     7c7         
,embroid]$ ,velvet ,coat4 #agee-ge4     
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #fb4  ,illu/ration3
 ,,fig4 #fc4  ,coll> & ,bodice types4   
,p]iod ,*>les ,i4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 
#fd4  ,coll> & ,bodice types4 ,p]iod    
,*>les ,i to #affj4  ,9 ! e>ly "p ( ?is 

reign ! ladies 7 we>+ ! long            
corset-bodice1 ) a ri*ly decorat$ /oma*]
 :i* curv$ outw>ds to set on ! v full   
skirts2 ?is (t5 f9i%$ ) a curv$ or      
foliat$ %ape at ! po9t4 ,squ>e />*$     
coll>s1 r\nd$ at ! back1 sometimes set  
up at ! back ( ! neck or flat on !      
%\ld]1 & ruffs 7 /ill se5 r\nd ! neck ) 
coll>s z well1 b !y 7 seldom met ) aft] 
#afce4 ,a pla9]1 deep coll>1 flat1 r\nd1
 or ,v-%ap$ at ! back1 com+ well ov] !  
%\ld]s1 0 caught toge!r by a b[ or      
ornam5t 9 front4 ,ab\t #afcj %ort] wai/$
 bodices came 91 ) full1 loose sleeves  
set 9 epaulets3 ! neck %ape 0 r\nd$ or  
squ>e4 ,! bodices 7 (t5 sla%$1 & ! full 
sleeves1 cut into b&s1 7 sometimes ga!r$
 by cross b&s f "o to ?ree times4 ,full 
pla9 sleeves1 op5$ 9 ! front seam1 7    
also clasp$ at ! elb[ 9 a l mann]4 ,out]
 %ort sleeves became a feature1 op5+ 9 !
 front1 %[+ ! full "u "o or a tight "o2 
! wai/ became v %ort & its tabs l>g]4 ,a
 wai/b& fa/5$ 9 ! /oma*] ) a b[ ei!r    
side & b[s ) long gold tags decorat$ !  

wai/ z 9 ! male j]k94 ,! skirt decorat$ 
by a b& ( ornam5t d[n ! front 0 (t5 ti$ 
^u ! corset-bodice1 ! front po9t be+    
left outside4 ,%oes ( ! same %ape z !   
male illu/rations1 ) v squ>e toes1 7    
frequ5t1 b an oval toe1 r po9t$1 is se5 
9 _m pictures1 ) ! l>ge lace rosettes 9 
front4 ,muffs are fir/ notic$ 9 ^! days1
 ?\gh !y 7 se5 mu* e>li] on ! ,cont95t4 
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #fe4--,p]iod       
#afbe-affj4   ,,sev5te5? ,,c5tury4      
,,*>les ,i4 ,,male4  ,! hair 0 worn     
loose to ! %\ld]s1 & a small plait 0    
sometimes arrang$ on ! left side1 br\ght
 to ! front ( %\ld]4 ,! be>d 0 trimm$ to
 a po9t$ %ape1 & sm>t] curl$ m\/a*es 7  
fa%ionable4 ,hats 7 /ill high 9 ! cr[n1 
b r l[] ?an ) ,james ,i2 ! l>ge brims 7 
turn$ ab\t 9 v>i\s curves1 & fea!rs 7   
worn fall+ ov] ! brims to ! side or     
back4  ,! j]k9 0 high 9 ! coll>1        
support+ a l>ge1 squ>e1 turn-d[n coll>  
edg$ ) po9t$ lace to ! %\ld]s1 or a     
small1 pla91 turn-ov] coll>2 ruffs are v
 r>ely se5 aft] #afcj4  ,illu/ration3   

,,fig4 #ff4--;,*>les ,i4  ,illu/ration3 
,,fig4 #fg4--,p]iod #afbe-affj4         
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #fh4--,p]iod       
#afbe-affj4  ,a r %ort wai/ grew %ort]  
dur+ ?is reign1 ) mu* l>g] tabs1 or l>ge
 flaps lac$ to ! body1 =m+ a s]ies ( b[s
 ) long gilt tags r\nd ! wai/4 ,! body  
is usually decorat$ ) long sla%es f !   
%\ld]s to ! brea/1 or ! full l5g?1 & a  
long sla%$ op5+ is (t5 se5 9 ! back     
7presumably to give m play to !         
sword-?ru/74 ,! sleeve is also treat$ 9 
! same way to ! elb[ or wai/4 ,all      
sleeves />t f a /iff epaulet4 ,bree*es  
are bo? v full & fairly tight1 ! latt]  
edg$ ) a purfl+ ( silk or gold lace z   
well z ! sides1 ! =m] %ape ti$ ei!r     
above or bel[ ! knee ) a l>ge silk b[ ) 
fall+ ends4 ,!y 7 held up by a numb] (  
hooks1 fa/5+ to a small flap ) eyelets1 
r\nd ! inside ( ! d\blet 7see patt]n    
#aa1 p4 #bie71 & 7 button$ d[n ! front1 
! buttons be+ half hidd5 9 a pleat4 ,!  
pockets 7 plac$ v]tically 9 ! front ( ! 
?igh1 & 7 frequ5tly ( a decorative "*4  

,a %ort or long circul> cloak 0 worn1 & 
a coat-cloak ) op5$ sleeves is an       
int]e/+ g>m5t4 ,^! cov]+s 7 hung 9 v>i\s
 ways f ! %\ld]s by me?ods ( ty+ ! cords
 across ! body4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4   
#fi4--,p]iod #afbe-affj4  ,illu/ration3 
,,fig4 #gj4--,%oe %apes4 ,*>les ,i to   
#agjj4      ,,nos4 #a1 #b1 #c1 #d1 #e1  
#f1 #g1 #h1 #bc4 ,*>les ,i4     ,,nos4  
#i1 #aj1 #aa1 #ab1 #ac1 #ad1 #ae1 #af1  
#ag1 #be4 ,*>les ,,ii4     ,,nos4 #ah1  
#ai1 #bj1 #ba1 #bb1 #bd1 #bf1 #bg1 #bh4 
,james ,,ii &          ,william & ,m>y4 
,illu/ration3 ,plate ,,xvi4--      7a7  
,silk ,brocade ,dress4 #agdj-fj4     7b7
 ,silk ,brocade ,sack-back ,dress4      
#agee-ge4           ,patt]n1 see p4     
#ccd4     7c7 ,dress ( ,/rip$ ,mat]ial4 
#agge-he4           ,patt]n1 see p4     
#cce4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ga4--;,boot
 %apes4 ,*>les ,i to #agjj4      ,,nos4 
#a1 #b1 #c1 #d1 #e1 #f1 #g1 #h1 #i4     
,*>les ,i4     ,,nos4 #aj1 #aa1 #ab1    
#ac1 #ad1 #ae4 ,*>les ,,ii4     ,,nos4  
#af1 #ag1 #ah4 ,james ,,ii & ,william & 

,m>y4  ,%oes became v squ>e at ! toes1  
or block$ z 9 ,fig4 #gj1 ,no4 #f4 ,!    
fronts 7 set ) l>ge rosettes ( silk &   
silv] or gold lace1 ! heels v>i$ mu* 9  
height1 t mo/ly fav\r$ be+ a l>ge1 l[   
heel4 ,a qua9t fa%ion ( %oe comb9$ ) a  
clog sole 0 an int]e/+ %ape 7see        
illu/ration ( clogs1 p4 #ajf74 ,fairly  
tight top-boots1 com+ well above ! knee1
 7 (t5 turn$ d[n4 ,o!r boots ) l>ge     
bell-tops1 turn$ ov] or pu%$ d[n1 7     
cov]$ or fill$ ) a lace or bell-%ap$    
/ock+-top4 ,a sa% 0 worn r\nd ! wai/ or 
across ! body ov] ! left %\ld] 7! l5g? &
 wid? ( ^! is giv5 9 ! description (    
patt]ns1 p4 #bgi74 ,a broad belt1 or    
sword-hang]1 came across ! "r %\ld]4    
,gloves 7 beautifully embroid]$ 9 gold1 
pe>ls1 or col\r$ silks1 ! gauntlets be+ 
f five to eight in*es deep4   ,,sev5te5?
 ,,c5tury4 ,,! ,,commonweal?4 ,,male ,,&
 ,,female4  ,! same %apes apply to      
co/ume dur+ ! ,commonweal?1 ?\gh a /]n] 
effect 0 giv5 by ! *oice ( pla9         
decoration & less col\r4 ,a small or a  

l>ge pla9 coll>1 & ! disappe>ance (     
sla%+s on ! coat1 & a long] skirt became
 noticeable4 ,a v high tap]$ hat1 ) /iff
 circul> brim1 0 worn by ! ,puritans1 & 
little1 close1 black hoods 7 mu* fav\r$4
 ,a g5]al reaction f gay extravagance   
set 94   ,,sev5te5? ,,c5tury4 ,,*>les   
,,ii4  ,,female4  ,! hair 0 set out f ! 
head on combs ) fall+ r+lets1 & sev]al  
small flat r+lets 7 plac$ on ! =ehead4  
,! back ( ! hair 0 plait$ into a knot1 &
 pe>l /r+s 7 int]lac$1 or ribbon loops  
caught 9 at ei!r side4 ,t[>d #afhj !    
hair 0 worn tightly curl$ & full$ out   
into a r\nd %ape ) a curl or two fall+  
on ! front ( ! %\ld]s2 small fea!rs or  
long fea!rs 7 also worn4 ,hats 7 ( a    
simil> %ape to ^? ( ! la/ reign1 ) a    
/iff] & n>r[] curv$ brim2 b ! *ief      
head-dress 0 a l>ge hood fac$ ) ano!r   
mat]ial1 :i* latt] 0 ti$ "u ! *92 ^!    
mo/ly =m$ "p ( a cape also4             
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #gb4--,p]iod       
#afej-afhe4  ,illu/ration3 ,plate       
,,xvii4--      7a7 ,silk ,suit4         

#agfe-hj4     7b7 ,quilt$ ,dress4       
#agjj-be4     7c7 ,silk-embroid]$ ,suit4
 #agfe-hj4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #gc4   
#a1 #b1 #c1 #d4--;,back & ,front ( two  
,corset ,bodices4 ,p]iod ,*>les ,,ii4   
#e1 #f4--,two ,corsets4 ,p]iod ,*>les   
,,ii4     #g1 #h4--,two ,bodice types4  
,p]iod ,*>les ,i4  ,! bodice aga9 became
 mu* long] & ( a po9t$ %ape1 b _m corset
 bodices took a r\nd po9t1 & a r\nd neck
 com+ well (f ! %\ld]s became g5]al1    
usually decorat$ ) a pla9 wide b& (     
lace4 ,ruffs & coll>s 7 no long] se5    
among/ ! upp] classes4 ,v full sleeves &
 l>ge op5$ sleeves 7 ti$ or clasp$ ov]  
full lawn ones1 & at times sep>at$ f !  
%\ld]s1 be+ caught effectively ) jewels4
 ,gr\ps ( ribbons 7 plac$ at ! brea/ or 
po9t ( ! bodice1 & ! ends ( sleeves or  
%\ld]s1 besides at ! fronts ( ! out]    
skirt :5 divid$1 also 9 ! ga!r+ ( ! lawn
 sleeves4 ,/oma*]s 7 n mu* worn1 b a    
drape ( s(t silk 0 caught "h & !re r\nd 
! neck ( bodice1 & l>ge drap]ies 7      
clasp$ to ! %\ld]s4 ,loose robes & robes

 %ap$ to ! figure1 op5+ d[n ! front f ! 
neck ev5 to ! wai/1 ) a clasp or sev]al 
hold+ !m toge!r2 ^! 7 worn ov] a quilt$ 
l95 corset lac$ 9 front z 9 !           
illu/ration1 b ! bodice 0 (t5 =m$ on a  
corset4 ,long gloves & mitt5s 7 9 use1 &
 small muffs ) ribbon loops on ! front 7
 c>ri$4 ,high-heel$ %oes ) v long squ>e 
toes 7 affect$ 9 imitation ( ! male %oe1
 b mo/ ladies n[ began to we> a v po9t$ 
%oe4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #gd4--,sleeve
 treatm5ts4 ,p]iod ,*>les ,,ii4         
,,sev5te5? ,,c5tury4 ,,*>les ,,ii4      
,,male4  ,long hair or wigs ( long curls
 fall+ on ! %\ld]s1 a v n>r[ m\/a*e &   
po9t ( be>d on ! *9 came ) ?is reign4   
,lace coll>s ( a small] squ>e or r\nd$  
%ape 7 9 use1 b a fall ( lace pleat$ 9 !
 c5tre soon took its place4 ,high-cr[n$ 
hats ) a b& & b[ 9 front & a flat1 wav$1
 or curv$ brim1 ) fea!rs on ei!r side or
 all r\nd1 7 ! fa%ion1 ! cr[ns becom+   
%ort] dur+ ! reign2 ! fronts & sometimes
 ! sides ( ! brim are se5 turn$ up1 & s 
beg9s to =m ! ?ree-corn]$ hat1 :i*      

rema9$ s long a feature 9 hi/ory4       
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ge4--,p]iod ,*>les
 ,,ii4  ,we f9d ) extravagant %apes a   
happy return ( gay col\rs4 ,! high-wai/$
 j]k9s ( ! ,*>les ,i p]iod 7 n[ se5 )\t 
! skirt 7z v %ort jackets71 leav+ ! lawn
 %irt to %[ betwe5 ?is & ! bree*es1     
besides :i* ! jackets 7 ne>ly always    
left unbutton$ sev]al in*es up1 "s be+  
cut away 9 a r\nd$ %ape & also hav+ %ort
 sleeves4 ,! l[] arm 0 cov]$ ) a full   
lawn sleeve caught at two or ev5 ?ree   
di/ances ) a loop ( ribbons or b[s1 &   
f9i%+ ) a wide lace frill2 a bun* (     
ribbon loops 0 also (t5 se5 on ! "r     
%\ld]4 ,a long circul> cloak1 )         
turn$-back fronts =m+ a coll> 9 _m1 /ill
 reta9$ ! hang+ sleeve1 & 0 mo/ly       
decorat$ ) b&s ( heavy braid4 ,a long   
squ>e coat also came 9 ab\t #afff1      
button$ "r d[n ! front1 ) pockets set v 
l[ 9 ! skirt1 & l>ge n>r[ cuffs op5$ at 
! back z 9 ,plate ,,viii 7see p4 #ij74  
,v full bree*es 7 worn to j ab\t ! knee 
or %ort]1 ) a fr+e ( ribbon loops1 & a  

r[ or sev]al r[s ( ! same 7 arrang$ at !
 wai/4 ,a %ort petticoat j %[$ ! "u     
bree*es1 _m ( :i* 7 turn$ into a d\blet 
%ape by an additional piece loop$ up    
loosely f ! knee ) a silk fill+2 !      
ribbon loops at ! wai/ 7 repeat$ up !   
sides ( ! petticoat4 ,silk g>t]s 7 worn 
) b[s on bo? sides ( ! leg1 or a deep   
lace fall came f ! end ( ! bree*es to ! 
middle ( ! calf2 a lace sett+ also fill$
 ! wide top ( ! boots1 :i* 0 worn v l[1 
ev5 to ! ankles4 ,^! %ort bell-topp$    
boots 7 fav\r$1 ) high heels & v squ>e  
toes4 ,%oes 7 long & squ>e 7or          
duck-bill$7 at ! toes2 & _h a high n>r[ 
front to ! in/ep1 & lat*ets fa/5$ ) a   
/iff5$ butt]fly b[1 besides1 at times1 a
 rosette l[] d[n on ! front3 r$ heels 7 
9 evid5ce4 ,! sword-b& 0 v wide1 & _m 7 
decorat$ ) gold embroid]y4              
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #gf4--;,co/ume     
types4 ,p]iod ,*>les ,,ii4   ,,sev5te5? 
,,c5tury4 ,,james ,,ii4  ,,female4  ,!  
hair 0 /ill worn full at ! sides ov] a  
comb1 z 9 ! =m] reign1 ) curls dropp+ to

 ! %\ld]s1 b !y n[ began to disc>d !    
set-out comb & ! little flat curls on ! 
=ehead1 ! hair be+ ( a r\nd %ape or p>t$
 f ! c5tre & m\nt$ high] & n>r[] on !   
head1 9 ! latt] "p ( ?is reign4 ,! same 
l>ge hoods & drapes cont9u$ 9 use1 & a  
high g(f]$ head-dress ) set-out front   
began to appe>2 ! same %ap$ bodice )    
r\nd l[ neck %[+ ! %\ld]s1 (t5 set ) a  
/oma*] front or jewell$ 9 t =m1 & small]
 decorations ( ribbon loops 7 /ill      
fav\r$4 ,a small] & %ort] sleeve began  
to appe> ) a turn$-up cuff1 & ! ga!r$-9 
lawn sleeves & ruffles caught "h & !re )
 pe>ls or clasps z be=e1 besides ! same 
light drap]y clasp$ ab\t ! brea/ front4 
,! ov]skirt 0 n[ loop$ back1 ! po9ts be+
 held toge!r1 giv+ a wide display ( !   
und]skirt1 :i* 0 heavily b&$ or _h a    
jewel sett+ d[n ! front4 ,o!r tra9      
skirts1 also divid$ 9 front1 7 bord]$ ) 
drawn silk caught at int]vals into long 
puffs4 ,v small muffs 7 ! fa%ion4 ,%oes 
increas$ _! po9t$ %ape & r l>ge heels   
are to be not$1 b "s %oes assum$ a v    

n>r[ squ>e toe2 !y 7 ei!r ti$ f small   
lat*ets ) a b[1 or ) buckl$ lat*ets4    
,long] gloves 7 worn1 & l>ge full cloaks
 ) hoods or l>ge drap]y wraps :5 requir$
 = outdoor we>4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4   
#gg4--;,co/ume notes4 ,p]iod #afgj-afij4
   ,,sev5te5? ,,c5tury4 ,,james ,,ii4   
,,male4  ,! same long wig 0 worn z 9 !  
la/ reign1 b ! curls 7 m ( a set r+let  
type1 & embroid]$ caps 7 worn :5 ^! 7   
tak5 (f4 ,! face 0 n[ clean %av5 until !
 #ai? c5tury4 ,hats also ( ! old] "* 7  
reta9$1 b ! turn$-up ?ree-corn]$ %ape1  
fill$ ) %ort fea!rs1 became m settl$ 9  
fa%ion1 & !y 7 heavily b&$ ) gold braid 
or lace on ! edge4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4
 #gh4--,p]iod #afij-agjj4  ,a sm>t b[ 0 
worn crosswise ov] ! fold$ lace fall at 
! neck4 ,! coat 0 a v long squ>e %ape to
 ! knees1 ! /iff skirt (t5 set out ov] r
 full bree*es1 :i* 7 sometimes %orts1 & 
j above ! knee1 ! /ock+ be+ (t5 br\ght  
up above ! knee1 ) a g>t] j bel[4 ,!    
sleeves 7 %ort1 above or bel[ ! elb[1 ) 
a turn$-up cuff1 leav+ ! full-ga!r$ lawn

 sleeve ) a lace ruffle to %[ at ! wri/4
 ,a sa% encircl$ ! wai/1 & (t5 %ut 9 !  
sword-belt1 :i* hung f ! "r %\ld]4 ,!   
coat _h buttons f ! neck to ! bottom ( !
 skirt1 ?\gh ! l[] buttons 7 seldom     
fa/5$2 ! sides ( ! skirt 7 op5$ up ab\t 
#aa in*es1 & also ! back seam to ! same 
height2 mo/ seams 7 heavily decorat$ )  
gold1 silv] braid1 or lace1 & ! pockets 
7 plac$ r l[ d[n t[>ds ! front ( !      
skirt1 & 7 sometimes set v]tically4     
,illu/ration3 ,plate ,,xviii4--      7a7
 ,brocade ,bodice4 #aggj-he4     7b7    
,fl[]$ ,silk ,dress4 #agej-gj4     7c7  
,silk ,brocade ,bodice4 #aghj-ie4       
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #gi4--,p]iod       
#afhh-agjb4  ,long r\nd capes 7 /ill    
worn1 )\t sleeves1 & a coll> turn$ d[n  
ab\t #d in*es4  ,%oes ( a simil> %ape to
 ^? ( ! lat] ,*>les ,,ii type 7 9 use1 b
 ! heels became l>g] & ! toes n s long2 
! top ( ! front 0 sometimes %ap$ & turn$
 d[n4 ,heavy boots to ! knee1 ) l>ge    
curv$ tops1 7 also 9 fav\r1 z 9 !       
illu/ration 7,fig4 #ga74   ,,sev5te5?   

,,c5tury4 ,,william ,,& ,,m>y4 ,,female4
  ,! hair 0 n[ m\nt$ high on top & !    
front p>t$ ) two curls1 ! re/ ( ! hair  
be+ b\nd on top1 or a curl 0 arrang$ on 
ei!r %\ld]4 ,a g(f]$ frill head-dress1  
set on a cap1 rose v high1 & a long fall
 ( lace1 or lappets1 came d[n on ei!r   
side f ! cap1 or 0 ga!r$ 9 l a small    
hood at ! back4 ,b>e %\ld]s n[ began to 
disappe>1 ! bodice %ape com+ ov] ! %\ld]
 to a ,v %ape enclos+ a /oma*]1 :i* 0   
sometimes tabb$ or %ap$ at ! po9t4 ,_m  
dresses 7 made 9 "o l5g?1 caught toge!r 
at ! wai/ ) a b&2 ! fronts ( ^! skirts 7
 loop$ back high up1 creat+ a panni]-l  
fullness at ! hips1 & n>r[ hoops came 9 
to set out ! skirts1 _m ( :i* 7 heavily 
embroid]$ ) gold4 ,! ,watteau-back dress
 />t$ 9 ?is reign2 a v e>ly specim51 at 
! ,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum1 is mo/    
probably ( ?is "t 7,fig4 #he1 ,a74 ,!   
sleeves worn to ! elb[ increas$ 9 wid? f
 ! %\ld]1 & 7 set ) l>ge n>r[ cuffs     
ga!r$ ) a jewel or b[ on ! front ( !    
arm4 ,hoods & cloaks ( ! same "* z      

describ$ = ! la/ reign cont9u$1 & light 
/icks 7 c>ri$ by ! ladies4 ,v po9t$ %oes
 7 worn1 ) l>ge high heels1 ! top ( !   
front flap 9 "s be+ %ap$ into po9ts4    
,black masks 7 frequ5tly us$1 "s hav+   
long lace falls4 ,r small muffs 7 /ill !
 fa%ion1 & beautifully decorat$ %ort    
aprons became a feature ) ! dress4      
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #hj4--afhh-afih4   
,,sev5te5? ,,c5tury4 ,,william ,,&      
,,m>y4 ,,male4  ,wigs ( ! same long "*  
cont9u$1 & 7 p>t$ 9 ! c5tre ) a rais$   
effect1 & v>i\sly %ap$ caps1 ) turn$-up 
fold or brim1 7 worn :5 ! wig 0 tak5 (f4
  ,! beav] or felt hat1 turn$ up        
?ree-corn]wise1 0 n[ 9 g5]al use4 ,x is 
(t5 se5 ) ! brims loose1 or sometimes   
d[n1 especially among/ ! l[] classes4   
,bo? small %apes & l>ge 7 worn4         
,illu/ration3 ,plate ,,xix4--      7a7  
,silk ,brocade ,dress4 #agge-he4     7b7
 ,embroid]$ ,silk ,jacket4 #agge-ij4    
,patt]n1 see p4 #cbf4     7c7 ,brocade  
,jacket4 #aghj-ie4           ,cap       
patt]n1 see p4 #cca4           ,coat    

patt]n1 see p4 #cdh4  ,illu/ration3     
,,fig4 #ha4--,p]iod #afhj-afij4  ,black 
ties across =mal lace cravats1 & long   
lawn cravats1 edg$ ) lace1 "o end ( :i* 
0 sometimes caught up loosely ?r\gh !   
l>ge buttonhole ( ! coat 7 worn4        
,wai/coats 7 left op5 well d[n to !     
wai/2 "s ( ^! 7 ne>ly ( ! same l5g? z ! 
coat1 ! skirt be+ (t5 edg$ ) deep gold  
fr+e4  ,! coats 7 ( mu* ! same "* z 9 ! 
"t ( ,james ,,ii1 ) buttons all d[n !   
front1 b n[ x 0 ! mode to button coats j
 at ! wai/1 all[+ ! wai/coat to be %[n4 
,! sleeves 7 g5]ally long]1 to ! middle 
( ! =e>m1 & ! turn$-back cuffs became v 
l>ge & deep1 (t5 t[>ds ! end ( ! reign  
tak+ a curv$ %ape4 ,! seams1 fronts1 &  
pockets 7 frequ5tly braid$ z be=e4 ,a   
long squ>e wai/coat ( ri* brocade or    
embroid]$ mat]ial1 ab\t f\r in*es %ort] 
?an ! coat1 0 worn2 "s ( ^! _h tight    
sleeves1 :i* came to ! wri/ b5ea? ! out]
 coat-sleeve2 o!rwise a ga!r$ lawn      
sleeve ) ruffle 0 worn4  ,%oes & boots 7
 practically ! same z 9 ! previ\s reign1

 ) l>g] high heels & a high squ>e front1
 ) lat*ets buckl$ or /iffly ti$1 & v    
squ>e toes4 ,top-boots ( ! same heavy "*
 cont9u$ z 9 ,plate ,,ii 7see p4 #db74  
,/ock+s cont9u$ to be worn frequ5tly    
above ! knee outside ! bree*es1 ) a g>t]
 b5ea?1 & beautifully embroid]$ clocks  
to ! calf4 ,muffs 7 c>ri$ by _m m51 & ! 
gauntlets ( gloves _h a v angul> %ape4  
,pat*es & make-up 7 us$ by ! d&ies1 & ! 
sword 0 n[ c>ri$ ?r\gh ! side pleats on 
a wai/-belt sometimes worn outside !    
wai/coat4     ,,*apt] ,,vii  ,,! ,,"*   
,,( ,,decoration ,,& ,,trimm+s ,,( ,,!  
,,eighte5? ,,c5tury4   ,9 ! e>ly "p to !
 middle ( ?is c5tury ! trimm+s 7 *iefly 
( gold or silv] lace1 real lace1 &      
purfl$ silk1 mo/ly ( ! same mat]ial z ! 
dress3 a b[ 0 (t5 worn on ! brea/1 &    
also 9 ! front ( ! sleeve cuff4 ,purfl$ 
or ru*$ trimm+ g5]ally ran d[n ! front (
 ! dress f ! neck to ! hem ( ! skirt 9 !
 ,second ,georgian dress1 & ga!r$ bord]s
 or decorations ( curv$ =ms 7 9 use4 ,! 
skirts usually _h only "o fl\nce till ! 

reign ( ,george ,,iii1 :5 ! trimm+s     
became m elaborate1 & gauze & imitation 
fl[]s 7 fe/oon$ ^u ! skirts1 ) ribbons &
 tassels & padd$ designs /&+ out 9 /rong
 relief2 "s *>m+ gimp trimm+s are also  
se54  ,! lace ruffles ( a fan %ape :i*  
f9i%$ ! e>li] sleeves till ab\t #agde 7 
sometimes ( lace1 int]wov5 ) gold1      
silv]1 & col\r$ silk ne$lework1 & ?is 0 
no d\bt ! =]unn] ( ! use ( ! m solid    
mat]ial itself4 ,! sett+ ( ! sleeve f9i%
 is int]e/+ to note all ?r\gh ?is p]iod1
 = x 0 beautifully treat$ 9 balanc+ !   
effect ( ! dress4 ,! squ>e cuff ) ! deep
 lace fall 0 big 9 /yle1 & ! lat]       
closely-fitt$ elb[ piece1 ri*ly ga!r$1 0
 happily conceiv$1 b no f9] sett+ c\ld h
 be5 appli$ to ! sack-back dress ?an !  
l>ge fan or d\ble fan ) its lace fall4  
,! edges ( ! e>ly fan-f9i%$ sleeves 7 ( 
curv$ & scallop$ =ms1 ! latt] %ap+ (t5  
be+ se5 9 ! lat] sleeves4  ,) ,george   
,,iii we notice designs 9 /raw "w1      
decorations ( imitation fl[]s 9         
ribbon-"w & v>i\s mat]ials1 & mu* ta/e 9

 ! *oice ( col\r s*emes1 :ile ! tassels 
( ?is p]iod 7 delightful creations4 ,!  
designs ( /uffs at ! e>ly "p ( ! c5tury 
7 g5]ally ( f9e /rong col\r bl5ds1 b 9 !
 middle p]iod !re 0 mu* que/ionable ta/e
 display$ 9 ! heavy mass+ ( patt]ns1 b  
?is soon improv$ ) ! /rip$ "* cross$ by 
runn+ fl[]s :i* 0 q ideal 9 type =      
co/ume keep+1 grace1 & lightness1 ) a   
beautiful int]*ange ( col\r4  ,! quilt$ 
silk & sat9 petticoats are a special    
feature to note 9 ^! times2 _m simple & 
effective designs 7 9 use1 & !y add$ mu*
 glitt] to ! s*eme4 ,aprons 7 also      
beautiful examples ( ne$lework1 & 7 worn
 ) ! be/ ( dresses to ! middle ( !      
c5tury2 ! e>li] ones g5]ally _h a       
scallop$ edg+1 & _m _h pockets2 gold    
lace edg+ or fr+e 0 (t5 us$ 9 ! "t (    
,george ,,ii1 & !y 7 all f9ely decorat$ 
) ne$lework 9 gold1 silv]1 or col\r$    
silks4 ,! :ite aprons 7 also (          
consummate ne$lecraft1 & hang+ pockets  
worn at ! sides 7 also a decorat$       
feature1 b ^! only %[$ :5 ! dress 0 worn

 tuck$ up4 ,! lat] /yle ( dress became  
mu* simpl]1 consi/+ *iefly ( ga!r$      
fl\nce sett+s1 fi*us1 & l>ge mob caps2  
^! 7 (t5 da9tily embroid]$ ) tamb\r "w &
 l>ge b[ & sa% sett+s1 mak+ delightful  
co/umes4  ,bags1 muffs1 gloves1 & %oes 7
 all *os5 = ! display ( ne$lecraft1 :ile
 arti/s & jewell]s us$ all _! skill on !
 fans1 pat*-boxes1 & etuis1 & ev5 !     
dress mat]ials 7 (t5 pa9t$ by h&1 :ile  
_m pa9t$ ,*9ese silks 7 also utilis$4   
,,eighte5? ,,c5tury4 ,,anne4 ,,female4  
,! hair 0 dress$ 9 a simple mann]1 ) two
 curls p>t$ f ! c5tre ( ! =ehead1 &     
curv$ inw>ds on ! br[4 ,a loose r+let or
 two 7 br\ght on to ! left %\ld]1 ! re/ 
be+ ga!r$ into a back-knot4 ,fea!rs or  
fl[]s 7 arrang$ on top1 g5]ally ) a pair
 ( lace lappets fall+ to ! back2 ^! also
 adorn$ ! cap1 :i* /ill bore ! front    
g(f]$ frills set out z 9 ! la/ reign1 b 
^! 7 dim9i%$ 9 size & 7 mo/ly ( "o r[4  
,we note probably ! la/ /age ( ?is /yle 
appe>+ 9 a pr9t ( ,hog>?'s1 dat$ #agdj4 
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #hb4--;,bodice     

types4 ,p]iod #afij-agbj4  ,illu/ration3
 ,,fig4 #hc4--;,co/ume type4 #afie-agaj4
  ,hoods & capes or cloaks1 & long black
 fi*us or wraps1 7 ! *ief cov]+s1 z !   
head-dress did n all[ ( hats be+ worn1 b
 ) ! small frill$ caps a little /raw    
hat1 or a l[-cr[n$ felt ) a l>gi% brim1 
are se51 & a small lace frill r\nd !    
neck began to appe>4 ,bodices ) a l[    
curv$ neck (t5 _h a %ort skirt or %ap$  
pieces1 z well z a %ap$ %ort sleeve ov] 
a ga!r$ lawn "o1 :ile _m wore long      
sleeves to ! wri/1 & a wai/belt is      
sometimes not$4 ,!re 0 also ! sleeve    
spread+ 9 wid? to ! elb[1 ) a turn$-up  
squ>e cuff4 ,! front ( ! bodice may be  
rem>k$ ) b&s fa/5+ across1 & ?is became 
a feature 9 _m dresses lat] 9 ?is       
c5tury1 o!rwise x set closely ov] !     
%\ld]s to a ,v %ape at ! wai/1 & 0 fill$
 ) a /oma*] ( f9e ne$lework1 b[s1 or !  
ends ( ! lawn fi*u lac$ or caught 9 by a
 big b[4 ,a full1 loose g[n1 ) !        
fullness pleat$ to back & front1 came 91
 ! front be+ held by a b[ & ! back all[$

 to fall loose or cross$ ) a l>ge b[ at 
! back ( wai/1 z 9 ! museum specim51    
,fig4 #he4 ,?is became ! m elaborate    
sack-back dress4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4  
#hd4--,p]iod #agjj-agbe4  ,! skirts     
began to be set out 9 a bell =m1 & tra9s
 7 9 mu* fav\r2 ! ov]skirts 7 p>t$ 9    
front1 & _m loop$ up to ! back 9 a      
simil> mann] to ! la/ reign4 ,small     
aprons ( f9e embroid]y 7 worn ) ! be/ ( 
dresses1 & embroid]$ pockets are se5 :5 
! skirts 7 ?r[n back4 ,petticoats ( f9e 
quilt+ became mu* appreciat$1 & tall    
/icks 7 c>ri$ by ladies4 ,po9t$ %oes )  
high heels & lat*ets ti$ or buckl$1 !   
top ( ! fronts be+ mo/ly cut into f\r   
po9ts1 or !y _h a squ>e f9i%4           
,,eighte5? ,,c5tury4 ,,anne4 ,,male4  ,!
 wigs ( ! full r+let /yle 7 /ill !      
fa%ion1 b a simpl] "* is noticeable1 !  
hair be+ comb$ back (f ! =ehead & all[$ 
to fall 9 loos] waves4 ,b _m began to   
set a mode ( small] coiffure1 ) _! own  
hair caught 9 curls by a b[ at ! back1 &
 curls ov] ea* e>4 ,p[d] came into use )

 ! sm>t set1 & a big b[ & bag to f9i% ! 
back ( wig appe>$1 giv+ a sm>t]         
appe>ance to ! :ite hair4  ,illu/ration3
 ,plate ,,xx4--      7a7 ,gold-embroid]$
 ,musl9 ,dress4 #agie-ahje4     7b7 ,n9e
 ,aprons4 ,betwe5 #afij & #ahej4     7c7
 ,dress ( ,spott$ ,/ock9ette4           
#agie-ahjh4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4       
#he4--;,bodice types4 #agjj-agbe4  ,!   
hat1 sometimes ( :ite felt1 0 ! same    
?ree-corn]$ type1 edg$ ) fea!rs & b&$ ) 
broad gold braids or silv] lace4 ,!     
neckwe> 0 a b9d ( lawn1 ) a long fall   
f9i%$ ) lace4  ,! coat rema9$ long to ! 
knees1 b took a great] fullness 9 ! side
 pleats ( ! skirt4 ,l>ge buttons &      
buttonholes1 #c in*es long1 are se51 ) !
 same on ! cuff1 :i* 0 worn v l>ge1 (t5 
#i in*es broad1 & mo/ly ( a curv$       
outl9e1 & ( ano!r col\r$ brocade2 a     
tight und]sleeve is also se5 ) ^!4 ,!   
coat 0 sometimes heavily decorat$ )     
ne$lework or braids ( gold d[n ! front1 
pockets1 seams1 & cuffs4 ,! pocket 0    
wide & set high] 9 ! skirt1 & ! back    

op5+ ( coat 0 decorat$ by sev]al        
horizontal braids to ! two side pleats4 
,a long1 full-skirt$ wai/coat1 ( ri*    
mat]ials or ne$lework1 0 at times braid$
 & fr+$ at ! skirt ) gold1 ! pockets    
cov]$ ) a l>ge flap1 & five buttons     
fa/5$ x or 7 plac$ z decorations j bel[ 
x4 ,! front buttons 7 (t5 r$uc$ to f\r  
at ! wai/1 z x 0 /ill fa%ionable to %[ !
 lawn %irt4  ,bree*es 7 ( ! same cut z 9
 ! =m] reign1 ) five or six side buttons
 at ! knee1 & /ock+s ) embroid]$ clocks 
7 worn roll$ ov] outside ! bree*es z    
be=e4  ,%oes 7 squ>e at ! toes & n q s  
long1 :ile ! heels 7 /ill r heavy1 & r$ 
0 ! mode4 ,!y _h a high squ>e top at !  
front in/ep1 & buckles fa/5$ ! lat*ets4 
,muffs 7 (t5 c>ri$ by ! d&ies1 &        
walk+-/icks1 ) tassel & loop1 7 slung on
 ! arm2 besides a sword1 :i*1 pass+     
?r\gh ! side pleats & out at ! back1    
help$ to set out ! coat1 :i* 0 (t5      
/iff5$ 9 ! skirts4 ,gloves1 ) %ort      
gauntlets v angul> or curv$ 9 %ape1 7   
trimm$ ) gold fr+e2 ! backs 7 also ri*ly

 embroid]$ ) gold or silv]4   ,,eighte5?
 ,,c5tury4 ,,george ,i4 ,,female4       
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #hf4--agbe-agej4   
,illu/ration3 ,plate ,,xxi4--#bc ,boots 
& ,%oes4 ,f #ahjj-ge4        #a4        
#ahjj-ahbj4       #b4            #c4    
#ahaj-ahbh4       #e4 #ahbj-ahcj4       
#h4            #i4 #ahbj-ahcj4      #aj4
           #ac4 #ahcj-ahee4      #af4   
#af;,a4            #g4 #ahej-ahfe4      
#ad4           #ae4            #d4      
#f4           #ag4           #ab4       
#ba4 #ahfj-ahge4      #aa4              
#ah4           #bj4           #ai4      
#bb4            ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4    
#hg4--,p]iod #agbe-agej4  ,illu/ration3 
,,fig4 #hh4--,modes1 #agej-aggj4        
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #hi4--,v>i\s ,/yles
 9 ,cut ,back ( ,bodice4  ,! hair 0 v   
simply ga!r$ f ! =ehead & tak5 up to a  
knot ( curls at ! back4 ,occasionally a 
gr\p ( curls 0 all[$ to fall beh9d1 or a
 curl 0 arrang$ to fall on "o %\ld]1 &  
wav$ curls ( ! ,que5 ,anne type 7 /ill  
se5 on _m p4 ,caps1 ) long dropp+ po9ts 

9 front1 sometimes ti$ "u ! *9 or ) long
 lappets at ! back1 7 ! *ief fav\rites1 
also a small frill$ cap4 ,%all[-cr[n$   
/raw hats ) v>i\s wid?s ( brim2 hoods & 
capes1 bo? %ort & long1 are se51 besides
 light silks drap$ f ! hair to ! wai/1  
fea!rs1 fl[]s1 & ribbons be+ worn 9 !   
head-dress4 ,ri*ly embroid]$ aprons 7   
worn ) ! f9e/ dresses4  ,! sack-back    
dress 0 v full1 & />t$ "r across !      
%\ld]s 9 two d\ble box-pleats1 :i* 7    
kept trim by be+ sewn flat = two to f\r 
in*es d[n4 ,sleeves to ! elb[ 7 r full1 
& ga!r$ at ! %\ld]s1 ) a squ>e cuff (t5 
decorat$ ) a b[ 9 front1 & a fan ( lace1
 sometimes 9 sev]al r[s1 fell f b5ea?4  
,sleeves f9i%+ 9 a %ap$ edge are        
occasionally se54 ,! skirts 7 made = ! v
 r\nd hoop sett+1 & 7 ga!r$ 9 flat      
pleats on ei!r hip4 ,a wide pleat or two
 came f ! %\ld]s d[n ! front sometimes z
 a cont9uation ( ! sack-back4 ,^!       
pleats1 meet+ at ! wai/1 =m$ a ,v %ape1 
:i* 0 fill$ by an embroid]$ /oma*]1 or  
made ( ! same mat]ial1 cross$ by b&s1   

b[s1 or r[s ( lace4 ,! flat front pleat 
0 occasionally embroid]$1 & gradually   
wid5$ to ! bottom ( ! skirt4 ,v po9t$   
toes to ! %oes1 & high heels1 ) ti$ or  
buckl$ lat*ets1 are se51 ! tops ( !     
front (t5 be+ %ap$ into f\r po9ts4      
,,eighte5? ,,c5tury4 ,,george ,i4       
,,male4  ,long1 full wigs are /ill se5  
among/ old] m51 b sev]al new %apes appe>
 z illu/rat$ 7,fig4 #ij71 & ! black b[ &
 bag became v l>ge2 a black ribbon      
atta*$ to x1 ) a b[ 9 front1 came r\nd !
 neck4 ,we also see ! ends ( ! wig made 
into a long1 tight pigtail4 ,hats 7 ( ! 
same ?ree-corn]$ %ape1 r full] 9 size1 &
 ! fea!r$ edg+ 0 /ill fav\r$4 ,a hat ( !
 type ( ,fig4 #aje 0 also worn2 & !     
loose cap ) a tassel 0 put on :5 ! wig 0
 remov$ 7see ,fig4 #ajd74  ,illu/ration3
 ,,fig4 #ij4--,wig types1 #a/ half #ah? 
c5tury4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ia4--,li/
 ( ,dat$ ,%oes & ,boots4      ,no4      
#a4 #agjj-agej4      #b4 #agjj-aghj4    
#c4 #agjj-aghj4      #d4 #agjj-agej4    
#e4 #agjj-agfj4      #f4 #agbj-aghj4    

#g4 #afij-agbj4      #h4 #agjj-agej4    
#i4 #agjj-agdj4     #aj4 #agdj-agfj4    
#aa4 #agjb-agbj4     #ab4 #agcj-agej4   
#ac4 #agfj-ahjj4     #ad4 #agcj-agfj4   
#ae4 #agdj-aggj4     #af4 #aggj-aghj4   
#ag4 #agdj-aghj4     #ah4 #aghf-agif4   
#ai4 #aggd-aghd4     #bj4 #agge-agij4   
#ba4 ,sole ( %oe ,no4 #bb4     #bb4     
#aggf-ahjj4     #bc4 #aghj-agij4  ,!    
neck _h ! same lawn b9d ) a long lace   
ruffle1 & ! coat ! same full cut z 9 !  
la/ reign1 & ! l>ge r\nd$ cuff 0 /ill 9 
fav\r1 b _m v>ieties ( size 7 n[ worn4  
,a v]tical pocket is se5 occasionally on
 clo? coats1 also a cape & turn$-d[n    
coll> are not$1 :ile sev]al appe> ) a v 
small upright coll>4 ,buttons 7 /ill    
worn on "s coats1 "r d[n ! front2 b on  
_m coats ! buttons /opp$ level ) !      
pocket4  ,a %ort-skirt$ coat came 9     
among/ ! d&ies t[>ds ! end ( ! reign1 & 
0 /iff5$ out on ! skirts2 ^! mo/ly _h a 
tight] sleeve & cuff4 ,! same           
decorations cont9u$ 9 use4 ,wai/coats 7 
mu* ! same1 & 7 cut to ! l5g? ( ! coats1

 or ab\t f\r in*es %ort]2 !y 7 button$  
high]1 ! lace (t5 fall+ outside4        
,bree*es 7 ! same 9 cut1 fa/5$ ) six    
buttons & a buckle at ! side ( ! knee4  
,! /ock+s1 usually decorat$ ) clocks1 7 
/ill worn roll$ outside ! knee among/   
sm>t p4 ,! /iff high boots or gait]s    
g5]ally _h a full curv$ piece at ! top1 
& %ort gait]s to ! calf are also to be  
notic$4  ,! %oes 7 squ>e-to$ or ( a     
r\ndi% =m1 ) a %ort or r high squ>e     
front1 & heels ( v>i\s heights4 ,pat*es 
& make-up 7 us$ by ! fops1 & swords &   
/icks c>ri$1 ! latt] be+ v high1 to #df 
in*es4   ,,eighte5? ,,c5tury4 ,,george  
,,ii4 ,,female4  ,! hair 0 treat$ 9 mu* 
! same mann] z ) ,george ,i up to ! end 
( ?is reign--ga!r$ back f ! =ehead to a 
bun* ( curls at ! back4 ,! small hats & 
caps1 (t5 worn toge!r1 cont9u$ ( ! same 
"*2 ! dresses also rema9$ simil> 9 cut4 
,! sack-back dress 0 supreme 9 !        
fifties1 :5 x 0 set ) panni]s1 toge!r ) 
! hoops1 b ! latt] 7 n s mu* worn t[>ds 
! end ( ?is reign1 except = ! gr& dress4

 ,quilt$ petticoats 7 mu* worn1 b       
fl\nces are n a feature on ! skirts till
 ! latt] "p ( ?is p]iod4 ,! simpl] dress
 0 ( v>i\s l5g?s1 & 0 at times worn q   
%ort up to #agdj4 ,! corset bodice 0    
/ill 9 use1 ) lawn sleeves3 squ>e cuffs 
& lace ruffles held ! lead ?r\gh\t ?is  
"t1 b ! fan-%ap$ sleeve f9i% to ! elb[1 
9 ! same mat]ial z ! dress1 began to    
appe> ab\t #agej1 g5]ally ) a wav$ or   
scallop$ edge4 ,po9t$ toes & high-heel$ 
%oes cont9u$1 ) ei!r ti$ or buckl$      
lat*ets1 & long gloves & mitt5s 7 9 use4
  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ib4--,?ree hoops
 & f\r panni] =ms4      ,types          
#agbe-agfj4           #agej-aghj4       
#agdj-aggj4           #agjj4            
#agbj-ej4           #agce-fe4           
#aghj-ij4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ic4    
,quilt$ designs on ,petticoats1 #ah?    
c5tury4   ,,eighte5? ,,c5tury4 ,,george 
,,ii4 ,,male4  ,wigs ) d\ble po9ts at ! 
back1 %ort curl$ or ( long pigtail$     
%apes1 "s ) side curls1 o!rs curl$ all  
r\nd ! front1 7 worn4 ,l>ge b[s & bags1 

or no b[s1 f9i%$ ! back hair1 & ! b[ to 
! front ( ! neck 0 9 use f ! e>ly "p (  
?is reign4 ,long coats1 z 9 ! la/ reign1
 & %ort coats ) /iff5$ skirts 7 us$2 _m 
) braid$ seams & fronts1 also a braid$  
op5+ at ! back4 ,l>ge r\nd cuffs & big  
squ>e ones1 cap$ coats1 & coats )       
turn-d[n coll>s 7 all 9 ! mode1 & !     
macc>oni fa%ions />t$ ab\t #agfj1 )     
absurdities 9 small hats1 clubb$ wigs1 &
 v %ort coats4 ,high /icks & crook      
/icks1 canes & swords cont9u$ 9 use4    
,illu/ration3 ,plate ,,xxii4--      7a7 
,l95 ,dress4 #agie-ahjh4                
,patt]n ( ,bodice1 see p4 #caf4     7b7 
,silk ,bodice4 #ahbe-cj4     7c7 ,silk  
,bodice4 #ahah-be4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4
 #id4--,wig types1 second half #ah?     
c5tury4      #agdj-agfe4     #agfe-agie4
  ,! pocket flaps 7 ( a curv$ =m1 ) a   
r\nd$ c5tre /ill1 & _m ( ! %oes _h a    
high squ>e front1 high heels1 & squ>e   
toes3 accord+ to ! c>icature pr9ts (    
,boit>d1 ! fa%ionable hats 7 small] 9   
#agcj1 & mu* l>g] t5 ye>s lat]2 v full  

skirts at ! =m] date1 & small] & less   
/iff5$ at ! latt]4 ,/ock+s 7 (t5 /ill   
worn outside ! knee4 ,%oes rea*$ an     
extreme high squ>e front at ! latt]     
date1 & gloves ) curv$ or squ>e cuffs   
are to be not$4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4   
#ie4--;,fir/ ,half ,eighte5? ,c5tury4   
,,eighte5? ,,c5tury4 ,,george ,,iii ,,to
 #ahjj4 ,,female4  ,?is long reign1 l t 
( ,que5 ,victoria1 embraces sev]al      
*anges ( /yle4 ,up till ab\t #aghe :ite 
p[d] 0 /ill us$ = ! hair1 rea*+ its     
fulle/ extravagance 9 ! middle ( !      
sev5ties1 set ) pe>ls1 b&eaus1 caps1    
lace1 fl[]s & fea!rs1 & ab\t #aggf ! top
 0 wid5$ consid]ably4 ,! front hair1    
ga!r$ f ! =ehead1 0 press$ 9 a =w>d     
curve ov] a high pad1 ) "o to ?ree curls
 at ! sides & "o at ! %\ld]s1 ! back    
hair be+ arrang$ 9 a loose loop1 curl$  
on ! top & set ) a l>ge b[ at ! back2 a 
small r\nd hat ) v small l[ cr[n        
7usually decorat$ ) fl[]s & silks ga!r$ 
into puffs1 or ribbons & small fea!rs7 0
 tilt$ "r on ! front4 ,ab\t #aghj l>ge  

mob caps ) a big b[ on ! front came 91 &
 7 g5]ally worn toge!r ) ! tall-cr[n$   
hat or ! l>ge-brimm$ hat 9 fav\r at ?is 
"t4 ,a cape ) smalli% hood worn 9 !     
e>li] reigns 0 supplant$ ab\t #aggg by !
 cala%1 a huge hood set out ) :alebone  
:i* came to cov] ! full head-dresses4 ,!
 heavi] cap$ or hood$ cloak1 sometimes )
 side op5+ = ! arms1 & usually trimm$ ) 
fur1 /ill rema9$ 9 use to #ahjj4        
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #if4--;,co/ume     
notes1 #aggj-aghj4  ,illu/ration3 ,plate
 ,,xxiii4--      7a7 ,musl9 ,dress )    
,t9sel ,design4 #agih-ahaj4     7b7     
,silk ,dress4 ,p]iod ,george ,,iv4      
7c7 ,sat9 & ,gauze ,dress4 #ahbj-cj4    
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ig4--;,head       
,dress4 ,p]iod #aghj-agie4              
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ih4--;,hats &     
,caps dur+ p]iod #aghj-agie4            
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ii4--;,hats dur+  
p]iod #agij-ahjj4  ,! bodice reta9$ !   
same %ape z 9 ! =m] reign1 r long] 9 !  
po9ts back & front1 ) a l>ge fan f9i% to
 ! sleeve1 d\ble or s+le2 ?is became    

supplant$ by a mu*-ga!r$ elb[-piece1    
sometimes eight in*es deep1 ga!r$ 9 f\r 
r[s4 ,small drawn ga!rs />t$ r\nd ! wai/
 ( ! skirt1 = ! side panni]s & hoops 7  
be+ less worn1 except = ! sm>t g[n1 b   
bun*+1 reef+1 & loop+ took _! place 9   
effect1 & quilt$ petticoats rema9$ :ile 
?is "* ( dress la/$4 ,! lat] sack-back  
dress 0 sewn tight] to ! body1 & usually
 />t$ 9 a n>r[] set at ! back1 :ile !   
full pleat f ! %\ld] d[n ! front w5t    
out1 & ! neck 0 m display$ by l[] bodice
 fronts1 :i* cont9u$ to be set ) b[s1   
jewels1 lace1 or embroid]y4 ,sack-back  
jackets 7 (t5 worn 9 ! sev5ties2 :5 !   
sack began to disappe>1 x took ! =m (   
ov]lapp$ seams on ! bodice4 ,! decorat$ 
side pockets are not$ 9 pr9ts %[+       
tuck-up dresses to #agge4 ,! jacket     
bodice ( ! same =m describ$ 9 ! prec$+  
reign 0 p]haps m 9 evid5ce till #aghj1 n
 s long 9 ! skirt z 9 ! e>li] reigns1 b 
aft] ?is date x took a long] skirt1 :i* 
0 (t5 pleat$ at ! back1 ) a v l[ neck & 
%ort wai/4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4        

#ajj4--,p]iod #aghj-agie4  ,ab\t #aghj  
we f9d a *ange ( /yle appe>+ 9 a %ort]  
wai/1 ) less po9t$ sett+1 hav+ (t5 a    
r\nd$ po9t or squ>e tabs1 & ev5 a %ap$  
f9i% to ! corset front1 :i* 0 sometimes 
us$ l a wai/coat effect "u ! cut-away   
dresses se5 aft] #aggj 7see ,fig4 #ii1  
p4 #bba74 ,a g5]al t5d5cy to imitate    
male attire is app>5t1 & ! front ( !    
bodice 0 set ) lapels & /raps button$   
across 7?\gh ,i h not$ ?is latt] "* 9 ! 
e>ly "p ( ?is c5tury71 & long coats )   
?is "* 7 mu* worn1 ) two or ?ree capes4 
,! sleeves are sometimes set ov] a tight
 und]sleeve1 9 fact ! long] sleeve to ! 
wri/ became fa%ionable4 ,) ?is *ange a  
%ort ga!r$ skirt is se5 on "s bodices1 &
 ! full ga!r$ skirt 0 bun*$ out at !    
back on a bu/le1 ( :i* ,i give an       
illu/ration 7p4 #bab71 ! l[ neck be+    
fill$ ) a l>ge lawn fi*u2 a wide belt 0 
g5]ally worn1 or a wide sa% & b[ at !   
back or side is se5 ) ! light] dresses1 
^! be+ simple 9 /yle1 j ga!r$ at ! wai/1
 ) %ort full sleeves set ) a frill1 &   

ano!r frill 0 also arrang$ r\nd ! neck4 
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aja4  ,ab\t #agij 
! mode aga9 began to *ange to a classic 
/yle1 /ill high] 9 ! wai/1 ) a %ort     
tight sleeve1 at times puff$ 9 ! upp]   
"p1 or an out] & "u sleeve1 z p]        
illu/ration ,a1 ,plate ,,xxii 7see p4   
#bae74 ,! fronts ( ?is type ( bodice 7  
mo/ly button$ or p9n$ up to ! %\ld]s ov]
 a tight und]front1 ! skirt op5+ ab\t   
#ah in*es at ! sides1 ?us sav+ a fa/5+  
at ! back4 ,i h illu/rat$ "s v int]e/+ly
 cut jackets ( ?is p]iod f my           
collection1 z ,a1 ,plate ,,xxiv 7see p4 
#bca72 ! sleeves 7 v long & 7 ruckl$ on 
! arm1 z likewise 7 ! long gloves or    
mitt5s ( ?is "t4 ,a long sc>f or drape 0
 c>ri$ ) ?is /yle1 & a r\nd helmet-l hat
 9 /raw or a turban 0 adopt$4 ,high     
/icks 7 /ill c>ri$ by ladies till !     
n9eties1 & umbrellas or p>asols2 ! =m]  
came into vogue ab\t #aggj1 ! latt] ab\t
 six ye>s lat]4 ,muffs ( beautifully    
embroid]$ silk & sat9 7 set ) purfl$    
trimm+s1 gold & silv] lace1 or b[s &    

ribbons2 o!rwise !y 7 ( furs or fea!rs4 
,!y rema9$ r small up to #aghj1 :5 a v  
l>ge %ape set 91 :i* cont9u$ till ! end 
( ! reign2 ! quantity ( beautiful fans (
 ?is c5tury mu/ be s well kn[n z to ne$ 
no description4 ,! highe/ arti/ry 0     
conc5trat$ on !m4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 
#ajb4--,p]iod #agij-ahjj4  ,illu/ration3
 ,,fig4 #ajc4--;,co/ume notes1          
#agij-ahjj4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4       
#ajd4--,l\nge ,caps worn dur+ removal ( 
,wig4  ,%oes at ! beg9n+ ( ?is reign 7  
set on v high sp9dle heels2 ! toe-front 
became r\nd$1 ! in/ep-front a po9t$     
%ape1 & wide lat*ets 7 buckl$ till ab\t 
#aghe1 b fa%ion disc>d$ !m e>li]2 = ab\t
 #aghj ! %oes became v small at ! heel1 
& po9t$ aga9 at ! toe4 ,:5 ! lat*ets w5t
 out1 ! po9t$ in/ep rema9$ = a "t1 b a  
l[ r\nd front appe>$1 & ! heel          
practically vani%$ j be=e #ahjj4 ,^!    
lat] %oes 7 decorat$ on ! front by      
ne$lework or incis$ lea!r op5work       
und]laid ) ano!r col\r4 ,! soles at ?is 
"t 7 extremely qua9t 9 %ape1 & ! %oes 7 

ti$ s&al fa%ion up ! ankle4             
,illu/ration3 ,plate ,,xxiv4--      7a7 
,outdoor ,silk ,jacket4 #agih-ahjh4     
7b7 ,embroid]$ ,musl9 ,bodice4 #ahaf-cj4
     7c7 ,embroid]$ ,musl9 ,bodice4     
#ahbd-be4     7d7 ,sat9 & ,gauze        
,bodice4 #ahbj-cj4   ,,eighte5?         
,,c5tury4 ,,george ,,iii ,,to #ahjj4    
,,male4  ,! wigs1 :i* 7 r high 9 ! front
 ( ! cr[n 9 ! e>li] "p1 began to ca/ (f 
! mo/ ecc5tric =ms1 & became j curl$1 r 
full at ! sides1 & ti$ ) a b[ at ! back3
 dull p9k p[d] became a fav\r$ hue f    
ab\t #aghj2 mo/ p began to return to _! 
own hair1 & "o might see _m )\t long    
hair 9 ! n9eties4 ,! la/ type ( dress+ !
 hair 9 imitation ( ! wig =m 0 a long1  
tightly braid$ pigtail at ! back1 ) "o  
or ev5 two side curls ov] ! e>1 & side  
:isk]s 7 all[$ to fill up to !m2 ?us :5 
! %ort hair set ! fa%ion1 side :isk]s   
came 94  ,hats 7 /ill worn ( !          
?ree-corn]$ %ape1 b ! fav\rites became a
 front cockade hat & a hat ) a r\nd$    
cr[n & r wide brim1 sometimes turn$ up  

on "o side2 a %ort type ( top-hat 0 also
 (t5 se51 & lat] became ! fa%ion4 ,!    
same lawn & lace cravat develop$ into m 
( a pla9 :ite /ock1 ) a frill$          
%irt-front4  ,! coat 0 worn mu* tight] 9
 ! arms & 0 sm>tly cut1 ) ! fronts runn+
 away into a n>r[ tail$ skirt4 ,!       
pockets (t5 began to take a pla9 squ>e  
=m1 ) or )\t buttons2 ! buttons on !    
front ( ! coat /opp$ at ! wai/--_m cuffs
 are se5 )\t !m2 & ! side pleats1 set m 
to ! back1 7 press$ & n>r[]4 ,bo? ! pla9
 & turn-ov] coll>s 7 set up high 9 !    
neck1 l>ge cut-/eel buttons 7 introduc$ 
9 ! e>ly sev5ties1 & _m fancy *9a       
buttons1 besides ! gilt silv] & pa/e    
ones 7 9 use4 ,a new type ( coat made   
its appe>ance ) a high turn-ov] coll> & 
l>ge lapels1 & a sudd5 cut-9 ( !        
coat-front high 9 ! wai/1 giv+ a v      
long-tail$ effect to ! skirt4 ,a cuff   
%ape ) ^! 0 mo/ly made 9 "o ) ! sleeve &
 button$ at ! side t[>ds ! back1 & :5 ! 
cuff 0 additional1 x seldom _h buttons1 
z =m]ly4  ,a greatcoat ) "o1 two1 or    

?ree capes 0 a picturesque g>m5t1 & a   
lea!r-cov]$ bottle 0 (t5 c>ri$ :5 rid+ a
 di/ance1 ( :i* ,i h an example 9 my    
collection4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aje4 
,wai/coats1 :i* _h become mu* %ort]1 7  
n[ giv+ place to a type ) a             
/raight-across front & turn$-back lapels
 at ! neck2 ^! l>ge lapels 7 mo/ly worn 
outside ov] ! coat lapel4 ,! wai/coats 7
 (t5 d\ble-brea/$ ) an embroid]$ design 
d[n ! front betwe5 ! d\ble r[ ( buttons1
 & ! /raight pockets ( ^! _h no flaps2  
!y %ort5$ at ! wai/ 9 "* ) ! lapell$    
coat1 b 7 worn l[] ?an ! cut-9 %ape ( ! 
coat1 %[+ ab\t #c in*es :5 ! coat 0     
fa/5$4 ,bree*es became v tight1 & tr\s]s
 beg9 to appe> aft] #agij4 ,/rip$ /ock+s
 & suits 7 mu* 9 fav\r4 ,top-boots ) r  
long br[n tops 7 worn1 or high boots ) a
 curv$ top1 ) a gold tassel set 9 front1
 7 se54 ,! %oes ) lat*ets & buckles _h a
 l[ front on ! in/ep1 & f ab\t #aghj    
took a r po9t$ oval toe %ape2 ! heels 7 
mo/ly worn %ort]4 ,swords 7 n s mu* 9   
use except on great occasions1 b        

sword-/icks 7 c>ri$1 & heavy club-/icks 
7 fa%ionable be=e #ahjj4 ,pat*es 7      
little us$ aft] ! sev5ties1 b !         
snuff-box 0 /ill indisp5sable4 ,! d\ble 
long purse ) c5tral r+s & tassels at !  
ends 0 c>ri$1 ( knitt$ silk or ( lea!r1 
! =m] ) /eel beads & col\r$ silks work$ 
toge!r aft] #aghj3 small bag purses 7   
also 9 use1 usually set 9 gilt m\nts &  
made 9 ! same me?ods ) a tassel bel[4   
,illu/ration3 ,plate ,,xxv4--      7a7  
,silk ,dress4 #ahjj-aj4     7b7 ,cotton 
,dress4 #ahjj-aj4     7c7 ,embroid]$    
,musl9 ,dress4 #ahbj-cj 7,patt]n1 see p4
 #cci74     7d7 ,silk ,gauze ,dress4    
#ahbd-cj4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ajf4   
,,*apt] ,,viii  ,,"* ,,( ,,trimm+s ,,(  
,,! ,,n9ete5? ,,c5tury4   ,dur+ ! lat]  
"p ( ! #ah? c5tury1 a great deal ( t9sel
 drawn "w 0 done on f9e musl91 & became 
beautifully treat$ 9 delicate design on 
! hem & d[n ! front ( _m ( ! high-wai/$ 
dresses z 9 ,fig4 ,a1 ,plate ,,xxiii    
7see p4 #bah74 ,lat] on t[>ds ! tw5ties 
we see a great deal ( effective co>se "w

 9 heavy gold t9sel1 & at ! same "t to !
 =ties a numb] ( dresses 7 ably enri*$ )
 f9e gold ?read4  ,! :ite embroid]y 9 ! 
e>li] trimm+s ( ?is p]iod1 ( :i* ,i give
 examples 9 ,plate ,,xxiv 7see p4 #bca71
 0 rem>kable = its weal? ( fancy2 ! *ief
 beauty ( ^! dresses 0 ! delightful     
treatm5t ( ga!r$ effects1 & ) ! reign ( 
,george ,,iv we note ! gradual return ( 
! long] po9t$ bodice1 ) ! gr[? ( v full 
sleeves1 also ! increase 9 ! size &     
full] set-out ( ! skirts ov] ! /iff     
fl\nc$ drill petticoats4 ,! ,v-%ap$     
,b]?a sett+ to neck & %\ld]s began to   
e/abli% itself1 & became a great feature
 ?r\gh ! ?irties & =ties2 ! fir/ signs (
 x appe> ab\t #ahad4 ,v>ieties (        
mat]ials 7 us$ to great advantage 9     
design+1 & drawn tulle trimm+s 7 happily
 introduc$ to s(t5 h>d %apes & col\rs4  
,! %\ld] fullness also began to be      
neatly drawn 9 & held by /raps1 :i* gave
 a *>m+ "* to _m bodices4  ,f #ahaf     
*oice "w 9 pip$ %apes1 (t5 ( fl[] =ms   
decorat$ ) pe>ls or beads1 0 set on f9e 

net1 z se5 9 ,plates ,,xxiii & ,,xxix   
7see pp4 #bah1 #bfc74 ,! attraction to !
 ?irties 0 ! happy effects ga9$ by ! b[ 
& fl[] loop+ on ! fl\nces1 & ^! rip5$ 9 
fancy & v>iety ?r\gh ! =ties4 ,braid+ 0 
adopt$ 9 ! ?irties ) a r *>m+ treatm5t (
 tassels d[n ! front ( ! dress2 !       
polonaises ( ?is "t 7 also effective &  
simple1 caught "h & !re ) posies (      
fl[]s1 & we f9d ?is fa%ion aga9 reviv$ 9
 ! sixties4  ,) ! reign ( ,george ,,iv  
we notice an increas+ *oice ( /rong     
col\r$ effects1 :i* culm9at$ 9 !        
mid-,victorian era 9 raw col\r & viol5t 
%ot silks1 velvets1 & heavy fr+es1 b "o 
may see t _m ( ^! dresses ( bright pure 
tone look$ exce$+ly ref9$ & 7 q /ately4 
,a rem>kable dress is ,fig4 ,a1 ,plate  
,,xxxii 7see p4 #bgi71 :i* is ( v /rong 
bright blue2 its only enri*m5t be+ a    
curv$ l9e ( fold$ silk4 ,all ^! dresses 
f #ahjj 7 delightfully embelli%$ )      
embroid]$ fi*us1 light sc>ves ( frail   
gauze1 crepe1 or ,norwi* silk1 & 9 !    
,victorian times capes & ,v-%ap$ %awls2 

fasc9at+ lace ruffles & tuck-9 fronts to
 ! bodice necks1 ( frills & b&s (       
embroid]y1 broke ! sev]ity or b>5ess (  
_m dresses4 ,an endless v>iety (        
fasc9at+ caps & lace head-lappets 0 p9n$
 or caught into ! hair at ! we>]'s      
fancy2 besides ! b[s1 fl[]s1 & jewels   
7especially pe>ls7 :i* h always play$ an
 important "p 9 ! coiffure f e>ly times1
 ! *atela9es & bags1 fobs1 fans1 & lace 
or silk h&k]*iefs all give ! arti/ a    
note ( extra col\r :5 desir$4 ,! cruel  
p]iod ( ta/e really came ) ! sev5ties1  
?\gh "o c trace _m qua9t & int]e/+ cuts 
9 ! bodices & skirts ( ?is "t2 b ! gr&  
dress ( complicat$ drap+s1 heavily fr+$ 
or braid$1 0 a set piece :i*1 let u     
hope1 w nev] appe> aga94  ,! long       
/ock+-purse :i* began to appe> 9 ! late 
#ag? c5tury 0 up to #ahbj sometimes     
c>ri$ tuck$ ?r\gh ! belt2 x 0 set ) a   
pair ( metal r+s & tassels ( /eel or    
gilt beads4 ,small & l>ge circul> &     
bag-%ap$ purses 7 also 9 use2 all ^! 7  
made 9 col\r$ silk ?reads enri*$ ) /eel1

 gilt1 or col\r$ beads1 ! latt] %apes   
be+ set 9 *as$ metal m\nts1 ! circul>   
ones g5]ally hav+ a fr+e & ! bag %ape a 
small tassel or heavy drop4 ,^! %apes c 
also be se5 9 col\r$ lea!rs ) a lea!r   
tassel1 besides ! pla9 money-bag ) a    
draw-/r+4   ,,n9ete5? ,,c5tury4 ,,george
 ,,iii4 ,,female4  ,! hair up to #ahjh 0
 ga!r$ into a knot ( curls at ! back ( !
 head1 r high up1 ) a small curl at !   
sides 9 front ( ! e>4 ,lat] ! knot 0 set
 m on ! top1 & ! side curls 7 made m ( a
 feature1 sev]al be+ arrang$ at ! sides4
 ,num]\s v>ieties ( l>ge & small brimm$ 
hats1 bonnets1 & turbans are se51 &     
sev]al mascul9e top-hats & cockade hats 
may be not$ late 9 ?is reign4 ,! usual  
fea!r decorations & l>ge ribbons or     
fl[]s 7 9 use1 & a h&k]*ief 0 sometimes 
b\nd ov] ! top ( ! /raw hat & ti$ "u !  
*94  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4               
#ajg4--;,co/ume notes1 #ahaa-ahab4      
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ajh4--;,co/ume    
notes1 #ahad-ahaf4  ,! classic          
high-wai/$ dress cont9u$ till #ahjh1 & 0

 (t5 beautifully decorat$ ) :ite        
embroid]y & gold or t9sel1 z 9 ,a1      
,plates ,,xx & ,,xxiii 7see pp4 #aii1   
#bah71 & ! frontispiece is a lovely :ite
 example4 ,!re 7 sev]al int]e/+ drap+s1 
"o be+ a cord hang+ f ! back ( ! %\ld]  
to loop up ! tra9 ( ! dress1 z 9 ,a1    
,plate ,,xxii 7see p4 #bae74 ,! simple  
tunic %apes are bett] describ$ by !     
illu/rations3 m orig9ality 0 essay$ 9   
design aft] ! la/-m5tion$ date4 ,a high 
,v&yk$ lace coll> & fan sett+ to !      
%\ld]s appe>$1 & _m int]e/+ dresses ( a 
pla9 cut1 mo/ly 9 velvet & silks1 7 worn
 ab\t #ahaj-ab4 ,a ga!r$ sleeve drawn   
tight at int]vals 0 (t5 se5 up to #ahaf1
 :5 embroid]$ ruffles & frills decorat$ 
mo/ ( ! necks & skirts1 & a braid$ type 
( "*1 r milit>y 9 effect ) beautifully  
pip$ edg+s1 came 9 f ab\t #ahag4 ,sp5c] 
bodices 7 an additional int]e/ at ?is   
p]iod1 & a %ort puff sleeve 0 g5]ally   
b&$ or caught ) b[s2 ^! be+ (t5 worn ov]
 a fairly loose long sleeve ga!r$ by a  
wri/b&4 ,dresses 7 worn %ort] f ab\t    

#ahaj4 ,*>m+ lace & embroid]$ fi*us     
cross$ ! %\ld]s1 & long sc>f-capes 7    
?r[n r\nd ! neck & 7 (t5 ti$ r\nd beh9d1
 z 9 ! #ah? c5tury2 long capes ) po9ts &
 tassels 9 front fell to ! knees1 & a   
simple pelisse ) cape became a pleas+   
feature4 ,bags 7 always c>ri$1 ( :i* !re
 is a v>iety ( %apes 9 ! plates2 long   
gloves or mitt5s 7 g5]ally worn4        
,p>asols ( a flat %ape1 or o!rs ) r\nd  
or pagoda %ap$ tops are se51 _m be+ edg$
 ) a deep fr+e4 ,long purses 7 (t5 tuck$
 ?r\gh ! wai/b&4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4  
#aji4  ,! po9t$ %oe1 ti$ s&al fa%ion up 
! leg1 & ) no heel1 rema9$ ?r\gh ?is    
reign1 b a r\nd-to$ l[ %oe1 ti$ on 9 !  
same mann]1 began to sup]s$e x ab\t     
#ahaj4   ,,n9ete5? ,,c5tury4 ,,george   
,,iii4 ,,male4  ,wigs _h practically    
gone out1 except = a few ( ! latt] type 
( ! #ah? c5tury among/ eld]ly p4 ,! hair
 0 n[ worn %ort1 & left r full on !     
front1 ) %ort side-:isk]s4 ,pla9 black  
or :ite /ocks ti$ ) a front b[1 & a />*$
 or un/>*$ coll> ) a frill$ or ga!r$    

%irt-front 7 9 use4 ,a tie-p9 or /ud 0  
also se5 9 ! c5tre ( ! /ock or frill+4  
,! same hats z 9 ! latt] "p ( ! #ah?    
c5tury cont9u$ = a "t1 b ! top-hat _h   
e/abli%$ its fav\r1 & assum$ v>i\s %apes
 ?r\gh\t ?is reign4  ,illu/ration3      
,plate ,,xxvi4--      7a7 ,morn+ ,coat (
 ,*9tz4 #ahbe-de4           ,patt]n1 see
 p4 #cac4     7b7 ,clo? ,coat4 #ahjh-bj4
           ,patt]n1 see p4 #cjg4     7c7
 ,clo? ,ov]coat4 #ahbj-ce4              
,patt]n simil> to p4 #caa4  ,! coats 7  
set ) v high turn-ov] coll>s & a        
wide-%ap$ lapel1 & ! lapel ( ! wai/coat 
0 /ill br\ght outside4 ,z ^! lapels on !
 coats became small] & *ang$ into a roll
 coll>1 !y 7 cut into po9ts at ! brea/1 
z se5 9 ! illu/rations4  ,! front ( !   
coat cut away 9 a %ort squ>e1 r high 9 !
 wai/1 :i* ?us =m$ a long-tail$ skirt2 !
 fronts 7 made d\ble-brea/$1 & 7 (t5    
fa/5$ high up ! lapel4 ,! hip-pleats _h 
gone r\nd m to ! back into a closely    
press$ fold1 ab\t ?ree in*es f !        
back-op5+4 ,sleeves 7 ga!r$ r full 9 !  

%\ld]s1 becom+ v tight on ! =e>m1 & 7   
f9i%$ 9 a cuff1 or button$ cuff-%ape4   
,we also see t a %ort squ>e coat )\t    
tails 0 worn ov] ! long] "o4 ,ov]coats  
7or long-skirt$ coats7 ) a cape or      
capes1 up to f\r1 7 worn all ?r\gh ?is  
reign1 bo? d\ble & s+le brea/$1         
sometimes ) turn-up cuffs2 b ?is mode 0 
n frequ5tly us$1 z a sewn-on cuff or    
cuff made 9 ! sleeve 0 n[ worn1 & began 
to take a curv$ %ape well ov] ! h&1 )   
?ree buttons to fa/5 x on ! out] sides4 
,%ort d\ble-brea/$ wai/coats cont9u$ mu*
 ! same1 b a r\nd-%ap$ lapel appe>$ on  
_m4  ,v tight-fitt+ bree*es 7 worn ( !  
same #ah?-c5tury cut1 & tr\s]s began to 
ga9 fav\r2 a fob ( seals1 c41 0 always  
worn1 com+ f "u ! wai/coat4  ,s(t high  
boots ) turn-d[n tops1 & boots ) longi% 
br[n tops set l[ on ! leg4 ,! top-boot )
 ! po9t$ or oval-%ap$ front & tassel    
/ill held sway1 & an oval-to$ l[ %oe )  
or )\t small lat*ets 0 9 use4           
,,n9ete5? ,,c5tury4 ,,george ,,iv4      
,,female4  ,! hair at ?is p]iod 0 worn 9

 plaits or curls ga!r$ on top1 & dur+ ! 
latt] ye>s 0 arrang$ into /iff loops set
 ) a high comb2 a gr\p ( curls 0 drawn  
to ! sides ( ! face1 ! hair be+ mo/ly   
p>t$ f ! c5tre4 ,plumes 7 mu* us$ =     
head-dresses1 & caps ) ga!r$ puffs &    
po9t$ frills4 ,a high-cr[n$ /raw poke   
bonnet1 tilt$ upw>ds1 0 /ill 9 =m2 b !  
prevail+ mode 0 a silk bonnet1 ) ! brim 
curv$ 9 at ! front1 ! sides be+ drawn   
toge!r "u ! *9 ) a b[4 ,! prevail+      
decoration 0 a gr\p ( fea!rs ?r[n =w>d  
or ribbon loops1 & aft] ?is a l>ge r\nd 
hat1 ) a full ga!r$ cr[n1 arriv$ ab\t   
#ahbg1 or /raw %apes1 su* z ,fig4 ,a1   
,plate ,,xxviii 7see p4 #bei74          
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aaj4  ,dresses    
gradually assum$ a long] wai/1 & a %ort 
po9t$ bodice made its appe>ance "h & !re
 f ab\t #ahbb1 :5 %ort /ays began to    
return1 & po9t$ belt corselets 7        
frequ5t1 ?\gh ! wai/b& or sa% 0 *iefly  
us$4 ,%ort puff$ sleeves ( *>m+ "* &    
workman%ip 7 sometimes set 9 a gauze    
sleeve1 z 9 ,fig4 ,c1 ,plate ,,xxiii    

7see p4 #bah74 ,sp5c]s & pelisses _h    
long sleeves com+ f ^! %ort ones2 !y 7 r
 full1 & 7 caught at ! wri/ ) a b&4 ,!  
upp] sleeve gradually disappe>$ z !     
full-topp$ sleeves began to develop 9   
size1 ab\t #ahbd2 ?is fullness 0 (t5    
brok5 up into ga!r$ p>ts1 a tight       
cuff-piece usually f9i%$ at ! wri/4 ,!  
high set-up coll>s & neck-frills gave   
way to ! flat capes ab\t #ahbg1 ?\gh !  
small ruffs 7 worn r\nd ! top ( !       
high-neck$ capes to #ahcj4 ,! ga!r$     
%\ld] began ab\t #ahbc1 & soon became a 
m>k$ feature2 po9t$ or scallop$ frills &
 trimm+s came into fav\r f #ahbe1 ,fig4 
,b1 ,plate ,,xxiii 7see p4 #bah71 & ab\t
 #ahbg ! slop$ appe>ance 9 ! bodice     
began to be notic$ z ! sleeves 7 set    
l[]4 ,! %\ld]s 9 ball dresses 7 %[n1 & a
 ga!r$ ,b]?a ( silk or lace 0 arrang$   
r\nd ! neck ( bodice1 ,fig4 ,d1 ,plate  
,,xxiv 7see p4 #bca71 or ?is =m 0 made 9
 ! patt]n z 9 ,fig4 ,c1 ,plate ,,xxii   
7see p4 #bae74 ,! ,v-%ap$ piece f !     
c5tre ( wai/ or brea/ began to spread   

ov] ! %\ld]s1 :]e x 0 op5$1 z 9 ,fig4   
,b1 ,plate ,,xxii 7see p4 #bae74 ,?is ,v
 %ape 0 (t5 op5 d[n to ! wai/1 :]e x 0  
fill$ 9 ) a c5tre-piece ( embroid]y4    
,skirts 7 gradually set out full]1 )    
/iff-fl\nc$ petticoats2 !y _h v>i\s     
simple or ri*ly decorat$ bord]s &       
fronts1 or sev]al small fl\nces1 or "o  
deep "o (t5 ) ! edges cut into div]s    
%apes4  ,illu/ration3 ,plate            
,,xxvii4--,outdoor ,silk ,dress4        
#ahbe-ce4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aaa4   
,i h /riv5 to give good examples ( !    
m>k$ /yles 9 ! v>i\s dat$ illu/rations1 
z well z ! c\rt tra9 to dress1 ,fig4 ,a1
 ,plate ,,xxxiii 7see p4 #bhb71 :i* also
 comes into ?is "t4  ,%oes 7 r r\nd at !
 toes till ne> ! end ( ! reign1 :5 !y   
took a squ>e %ape2 a t9y rosette or b[ 0
 plac$ at ! front ( in/ep1 & !y 7 held  
by n>r[ ribbons1 cross$ & ti$ r\nd !    
ankle4 ,boots lac+ at ! inside1 ) seam  
d[n ! front1 (t5 _h a toe-cap z 9 ,fig4 
#e1 ,plate ,,xxi 7see p4 #bjb72 no heels
 7 worn4  ,light gauze sc>ves 7 usually 

c>ri$1 & v small fans besides ! l>g]    
fea!r ones4 ,bags or sa*ets ( ! =ms     
illu/rat$ 7 pa9t$ or embroid]$ 9        
ribbonwork1 *5ille1 tulle1 & col\r$     
silks4  ,a few specim5s ( p>asols are   
also giv51 & gloves & mitt5s 7 ( ! same 
"* z 9 ! latt] "p ( ! la/ reign4  ,!    
patt]ns giv5 ( "s ( ! dresses %[n 9 !   
plates w be useful z to ! measurem5ts ( 
! increase 9 skirt-wid? & sleeves2 "o   
may also note ! v po9t$ set-out ( !     
brea/1 sometimes made ) two gores1 :i*  
only occurs 9 ?is reign4 ,muffs 7       
usually ( a l>ge size1 & a b[ ) long    
ends 0 (t5 worn on ! front4   ,,n9ete5? 
,,c5tury4 ,,george ,,iv4 #ahbj-cj4      
,,male4  ,! mode 9 beav] hats 0 mo/     
v>i$2 high /raight cr[ns ) small brims1 
o!rs tap]+ at ! top ) l>g] curl$ brims1 
or cr[ns enl>g+ at ! top ) almo/ /raight
 small brims2 a top-hat ( /raw is %[n on
 page #cji4 ,a %ort-cr[n$ hat 0 also    
worn4 ,! hair 0 comb$ t[>ds ! front at  
ei!r side1 & ! face %av51 ) ! exception 
( %ort side-:isk]s4  ,a v high /ock (   

black sat9 or l95 surr\nd$ ! ?roat1 ) or
 )\t ! po9ts ( coll> %[+1 & a frill$    
%irt1 (t5 /iffly g(f]$4  ,coats 7 v     
tight-fitt+ & mo/ly d\ble-brea/$1 ) long
 swall[-tail$ skirts1 or long full      
skirts2 ! wai/ 0 r %ort1 & ! effect (   
coat-front r\nd-brea/$ ) a high         
turn$-ov] coll> f9i%$ 9 l>ge lapels1 :i*
 7 (t5 treat$ ) velvets4 ,! fav\rite    
col\rs = ov]coats 7 greys1 buffs1 gre5s1
 & blues1 & ! edges 7 neatly f9i%$ ) f9e
 cord4 ,! sleeves1 r full 9 ! %\ld]1    
became tight on ! l[] arm1 com+ to a    
curv$ %ape well ov] ! h&1 & button$ up !
 side4 ,! pockets 7 frequ5tly set at an 
angle1 z 9 illu/ration1 & a %ort r\nd   
cape1 or two1 0 se5 on _m ov]coats4 ,a  
%ort type ( coat is se5 ab\t #ahbg1 ) a 
s+le roll coll>4  ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4  
#aab4--,p]iod #ahbj-ahdj4  ,wai/coats   
mo/ly _h a r\nd-%ap$ lapel1 & 7 (t5     
d\ble-brea/$ & v %ap$ at ! wai/1 :i* 0  
set fairly high2 a long op5+ all[$ !    
frill$ %irt-front full display4 ,!re 7  
also wai/coats hav+ no lapels1 no       

pockets1 or no cov]-flap2 ! po9ts (     
front 7 v small1 be+ button$ to ! end1  
or1 ) ! d\ble-brea/$ %ape1 !y 7 /raight 
across4  ,bree*es 7 n s mu* worn z      
tr\s]s ( clo?1 nanke51 drill1 & f9e :ite
 corduroy2 ^! 7 usually fa/5$ "u ! boots
 ) a /rap1 o!rs 7 loos] & (t5 worn %ort1
 well above ! ankle4 ,a v full type 9 ! 
upp] "p peg-tops1 0 9 fa%ion ab\t       
#ahbj-be among/ ! d&ies1 & = ev5+ dress1
 v close-fitt+ bree*es to ! knee1 or j  
above ! ankle1 ! latt] be+ op5$ &       
button$ up to ! calf4 ,p9ce-nez 7       
fav\r$1 ) a heavy black ribbon1 g5]ally 
worn tuck$ 9 ! lapels ( ! wai/coat2 & a 
fob ( gold seals1 c41 hung f ! braces1  
bel[ wai/coat pocket4  ,illu/ration3    
,,fig4 #aac4--ahcj-ahdj4  ,%oes & %ort  
,well+ton boots 7 *iefly worn1 ! =m] be+
 l[ 9 ! heel & v %ort 9 ! tongue1 :i* 0 
almo/ cov]$ by small lat*ets1 ei!r      
buckl$ or ti$1 ! %ape ( ! toe be+ r     
r\nd4 ,! ,hessian boots ) curv$ front & 
tassel at ! top 7 /ill worn4   ,,n9ete5?
 ,,c5tury4 ,,william ,,iv4 ,,female4  ,!

 hair /ill reta9$ ! high loops on top & 
! bun* ( curls at ! sides1 pois$ by a   
back comb & set ) fl[]s or fea!rs2 !re 0
 also a great v>iety ( fancy capes )    
po9t$ frills1 "s ) long tie ends1 & ^!  
are se5 ) mo/ dresses1 & 7 worn 9       
conjunction ) ! hats4 ,! fav\rite hat 0 
a big1 flat1 circul> =m1 g5]ally tilt$  
at "o side1 & decorat$ ) b[s1 fl[]s1 &  
fea!rs2 a flat tam-o'-%ant] %ape 0 (t5  
worn ) ! rid+-dress1 sometimes ) a l>ge 
peak-%ape 9 front1 & /raps "u ! *94 ,!  
l>ge poke-bonnet also kept ! front z    
flat & r\nd z possible1 ) a high cr[n   
tilt$ upw>d 9 ord] to set ov] ! hair    
loops4  ,illu/ration3 ,plate ,,xxviii4--
      7a7 ,silk ,pelisse4 #ahbj-cj4     
7b7 ,cotton ,dress4 #ahcj-dj4 7,patt]n1 
see p4 #cdc74     7c7 ,silk ,sp5c] &    
,cape4 #ahah-bg 7,patt]n1 see p4 #cbd74 
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aad4--ahbh-ahcf4  
,! bodice began ) a v po9t$ front & v l[
 neck (f ! %\ld]s1 tuck-ins ( f9e       
embroid]y1 & capes or fi*us ( ! same1   
cov]$ ! %\ld]s1 (t5 ?ree deep4 ,! po9t$ 

bodice only la/$ = a few ye>s1 :5 !     
wai/b& aga9 became ! fav\rite4 ,!       
sleeves 7 v l>ge at ! %\ld]s1 dim9i%+ at
 ! wri/1 b soon took a big r\nd =m1     
sometimes tightly pleat$ into qu>t]s    
be=e #ahce4 ,we !n get ! huge sleeve    
ga!r$ at ! wri/1 & (t5 fall+ bel[ x2 ?is
 aga9 tight5$ on ! =e>m1 & we note a    
t5d5cy to tight] sleeves com+ 9 be=e    
#ahcg1 neatly ga!r$ well d[n ! %\ld]4 ,!
 ev5+-dress sleeve 0 a l>ge puff1 set   
out by /iff5+ to a flat wide effect4 ,v 
wide epaulet coll>s 7 se5 on mo/        
dresses1 meet+ 9 a ,v %ape at ! wai/1 ) 
a fill+ ( lace 9 ! front1 & _m bodices 7
 elaborately ga!r$1 & "s ( ! sleeves 7  
also ga!r$ into puffs all d[n ! arm4    
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aae4--ahcj-ahdj4  
,! skirts 7 set out v full ov] /iff     
fl\nc$ petticoats1 & 7 worn r %ort2 z a 
rule !y 7 trimm$ ) "o or two fl\nces1   
:i* 7 h&somely decorat$1 & a %ort       
polonaise is occasionally se54 ,!re 7 _m
 int]e/+ trimm+s ( gauze1 fl[]s1 & b[s2 
:ile silk-fl[]$ gauze ov] dresses made  

"s *>m+ effects4  ,heavy mantles & capes
 or pelisses began to be braid$1 & r    
/rong col\rs 7 9 g5]al ta/e4  ,! h&-bags
 7 ( a curv$ =m & g5]ally bore heavy    
tassels4 ,v small fans & r\nd fans 7    
attractive1 & b\quet-hold]s ( gilt1 )   
pe>l h&les1 became ! ?+ to c>ry4  ,%oes 
7 ( ! l[ s&al type1 fa/5$ by cross$     
ela/ic1 ) v squ>e toes1 & a t9y rosette 
or b[ on ! front2 boots to ! ankle 7 n[ 
9 fa%ion1 mo/ly lac+ at ! inside1 & hav+
 a long toe-cap1 sometimes ) a small    
rosette at ! top ( ?is or a tassel at   
front ( ! top ( ! boot4  ,illu/ration3  
,plate ,,xxix4--      7a7 ,embroid]$    
,silk ,gauze ,dress4 #ahbj-cj4     7b7  
,gauze ,dress ) ,appliqu$ ,design4      
#ahbe-ce4     7c7 ,pr9t$ ,l95 ,outdoor  
,dress4 #ahbg-dg 7,patt]n1 see p4 #cdb74
   ,,n9ete5? ,,c5tury4 ,,william ,,iv4  
,,male4  ,! hair 0 worn r full 9 curls  
at ! sides or on top1 p>t$ at ! left    
side1 besides be+ occasionally p>t$ at !
 c5tre4 ,side :isk]s1 curv$ =w>d1 /ill  
cont9u$1 & a %ort trimm$ be>d 0 n[ worn 

r\nd "u ! *9 by _m1 m\/a*es also made _!
 fir/ appe>ance at ! end ( ?is reign4   
,top-hats 7 high & /raight1 b _m /ill   
adh]$ to ! tap]$ cr[n & l>g] brim4  ,!  
same pla9 /ocks ( black sat9 cont9u$1 ) 
or )\t a front b[1 & a s(t pleat$ or    
frill$ %irt-front4  ,! coats 7 simil> to
 ! la/ reign3 ! *ief diff]5ces be+ an   
increase 9 ! l5g? ( ! wai/1 wid] tails1 
& l>ge lapels ( a simil> cut3 velvet    
coll>s & cuffs 7 mu* worn1 & ! wai/ 0   
/ill made tight4 ,a coat ) a squ>e skirt
 z 9 ,fig4 #aaf is se5 = ! fir/ "t1 & ! 
swall[-tail$ coat 0 worn n q s long4 ,a 
l[] op5+ to ! wai/coat 0 g5]ally se5 9  
ev5+ attire1 :i* sometimes _h b f\r     
small buttons1 :ile m ( ! s+le-brea/$   
type 7 9 use1 ) & )\t lapels4  ,v tight 
tr\s]s to ! ankle button$ up to ! calf  
cont9u$1 or pla9 tr\s]s 7 held by /raps 
"u ! boot2 twill1 corduroy1 or nanke5 7 
bo? /rapp$ or free at ! ankle & r %ort4 
,knee-bree*es 7 /ill worn by _m = ev5+  
dress1 & long ,italian capes ) ov]capes 
& high turn-ov] coll>s 7 fa%ionable1    

besides ! v full-skirt$ greatcoat4      
,boots & %oes 7 squ>e at ! toes & r long
 & n>r[1 ! %oes hav+ a b[ or buckle4    
,%ort ,well+ton boots cont9u$ mu* 9 use1
 also spats4  ,fobs ( gold seals1 c41 7 
worn1 & eye-glasses atta*$ to a black   
ribbon is a noticeable feature4         
,,n9ete5? ,,c5tury4 ,,victoria4         
,,female4  ,! hair 0 p>t$ 9 ! c5tre &   
tight5$ 9 a top sett+ ( plaits1 ) side  
curls ov] ! e>s4 ,?is mode 0 reta9$ by  
_m till ! fifties1 b ! top plaits began 
to be set l[] at ! back1 & ! same flat  
p>t$ hair 0 br\ght 9 a curv$ %ape to !  
front ( ! e>s1 (t5 9 a small plait1     
all[+ ! e> to %[1 or 9 a plait$ knot at 
ei!r side2 ab\t #ahej x 0 wav$1 p>t$1 & 
simply curv$ f ! =ehead ov] ! e>s 9 a   
full] mann]1 sometimes be+ turn$ "u to  
increase ! side fullness1 :ile ! back   
hair 0 arrang$ l[] d[n ! neck4 ,9 !     
sixties ! hair 0 wav$ & caught beh9d 9  
r+lets or 0 bun*$ into ! hide\s *ignons1
 :i* are se5 till ab\t #ahhj4           
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aaf4--ahdj-ahfj4  

,! v>iety ( caps & hats is too al>m+ to 
deal )1 & baffles compreh5sible         
description1 s x is be/ = ! /ud5t to dip
 into ! hundr$s ( illu/rations ?r\gh ?is
 p]iod 9 ! ,ladies' ,magaz9e1 ,pun*1 !  
,illu/rat$ ,london ,news1 or ! ,ladies' 
,treasury = ! lat] /yles4  ,! /raw      
bonnet ) a /raight] poke front 0 fav\r$ 
till #ahej1 :5 ! front became           
consid]ably r$uc$ 9 size & fitt$ closely
 r\nd ! face4 ,! l>g] brimm$ bonnets _h 
a little frill by ! e>s1 & !            
tight-brimm$ bonnet (t5 _h ! frill all  
r\nd ) a fl[] also tuck$ 9 effectively  
to ! we>]'s ta/e1 & we see ?is fav\r$   
till ! sev5ties4 ,9 ! fifties a l>ge    
flat ,leghorn hat ) a small cr[n 0 9    
evid5ce1 ! brim dipp+ back & front1     
decorat$ ) fea!rs or b[s1 & a           
?ree-corn]$ ,fr5* hat ) fea!rs set 9 !  
brim came 9 ) revival ( ! #ah?-c5tury   
/yle ab\t #ahfj4 ,a small b[l] hat & a v
 small pork-pie hat appe>s 9 ! late     
sixties1 & a t9y-%ap$ bonnet ( a curv$  
=m dur+ ! sev5ties4  ,illu/ration3      

,plate ,,xxx4--      7a7 ,pr9t$ ,silk   
,bodice4 #ahdj-ej4           7,patt]n1  
see p4 #cbj47     7b7 ,ga!r$ ,l95       
,bodice4 #ahcg-dg4     7c7 ,silk ,bodice
 & ,b]?a4 #ahde-ee4  ,illu/ration3      
,,fig4 #aag4--ahde-ahee4  ,at ! beg9n+ (
 ?is long reign we f9d ! po9t$ bodice ) 
a normal l5g? ( wai/ has really come to 
/ay1 ?\gh _m dresses reta9 ! wai/b& till
 ! fifties1 & !re is su* a confusion (  
/yles at t "t1 x is difficult to arrange
 a sequ5ce4 ,f ! #ah? c5tury fa%ions    
became m complicat$ 9 ! great] v>iety ( 
design1 ea* ov]lapp+ ! o!r1 & sev]al    
di/9ct =ms ( "* come & g dur+ ?is long  
reign4 ,i d n envy ! p]son :o und]takes 
! *ronology ( our pres5t p]iod4  ,at !  
comm5cem5t 9 #ahcg ! huge sleeves ga!r$ 
at ! wri/ 7 /ill 9 evid5ce1 especially z
 a gauze ov]sleeve to ev5+ attire1 & !y 
cont9u$ ?us to ! fifties1 b v l>ge      
sleeves 7 really dy+ out & ! usual      
reaction 0 sett+ 92 ! full-%\ld]$ sleeve
 _h turn$ a som]sault & 0 neatly ga!r$  
tight f ! %\ld] to ! elb[1 ! fullness   

fall+ on ! =e>m1 & ?is 0 ga!r$ into a   
tight sett+ or wri/b&4 ,! ,v-%ap$ front 
to ! bodice 0 kept 9 _m dresses by a    
coll> or two tap]+ f ! %\ld]s to ! wai/1
 ! fullness ( ! brea/ (t5 be+ tightly   
ga!r$ at ! %\ld]s1 besides a few in*es 9
 ! front po9t ( ! bodice4 ,a v pla9     
tight-fitt+ sleeve became fa%ionable1 & 
on mo/ ( ^! we f9d a small upp] sleeve  
or a d\ble "o z %[n 9 ,a1 ,plate ,,xxx  
7see p4 #bff72 ?is 0 sometimes op5$ at !
 out] side4 ,^! sleeves cont9u$ till    
ab\t #aheb4 ,9 #ahec a bell-%ap$ sleeve 
is notic$ 9 ord9>y dress1 & ?is cont9u$ 
9 v>i\s sizes till #ahge1 rea*+ its     
full] %ape ab\t #ahfd4 ,^! types (      
sleeves 7 usually worn ov] a tight "o or
 a full lawn sleeve ga!r$ at ! wri/2 mo/
 bodices ) ?is sleeve 7 closely fitt$ & 
high 9 ! neck1 ! wai/ (t5 be+ cut into  
small tabs4 ,we also notice = a few ye>s
 9 ! e>ly fifties ! deep] "p ( ! bell   
curv$ to ! front ( ! arm1 giv+ a v ugly 
appe>ance4 ,a close-fitt+ jacket also   
came into evid5ce till ab\t #ahfe )     

tight sleeves & cuffs1 sometimes ) a    
little turn-d[n coll> & a long] skirt z 
9 ,fig4 ,c1 ,plate ,,xxxiii 7see p4     
#bhb74 ,?is p>ticul>ly f9e embroid]$    
specim51 9 imitation ( ! #ah?-c5tury    
/yle1 is int]e/+ly cut away %ort at !   
back to all[ = bett] sett+ on ! cr9ol9e4
 ,!re is ano!r type ( sleeve se5 ab\t   
#ahdh1 ( a pla91 full1 squ>e cut2 ^!    
became v>i$ 9 %ape1 be+ op5$ up ! side &
 g5]ally trimm$ ) wide braids4 ,?is     
clumsy "* is se5 up to #ahgh1 ! lat]    
ones be+ full] 9 cut4 ,z\ave jackets 7  
occasionally worn 9 ! =ties & lat] 9 !  
e>ly sixties1 :5 ! wide corselet belt 0 
aga9 fav\r$4 ,skirts at ! beg9n+ ( !    
reign 7 fully set out on drill          
petticoats1 /iff fl\nces1 & ev5         
:alebone1 s x 0 h>dly a great effect :5 
! cr9ol9e appe>$ ab\t #ahee1 ?\gh a     
furi\s attack 0 made aga9/ x at fir/2   
?is und]sett+ develop$ to its fulle/    
ext5t betwe5 #aheg & #ahfd1 & _m dresses
 9 ! e>ly sixties 7 also worn %ort1 %[+ 
! high boots ( ?is p]iod4 ,at fir/ !    

cr9ol9e 0 slightly held back f ! front  
by ties1 & aga9 9 ! sixties x 0 (t5 kept
 ) a /raight front1 ! fullness be+ held 
to ! back1 till ! appe>ance ( ! bu/le   
br\ght 9 ano!r %ape4 ,! skirts 7 n[     
pull$ 9 tight to ! front ( ! figure &   
bun*$ up at ! back1 ) a tra9 or %ap$    
fl\nc$ pieces ov]lapp+ ea* o!r caught up
 "u ! bu/le1 z 9 ,fig4 ,b1 ,plate       
,,xxxiii 7see p4 #bhb74  ,illu/ration3  
,plate ,,xxxi4--      7a7 ,embroid]$    
,musl9 ,outdoor ,dress1 #ahee-fe4       
7b7 ,rid+ ,habit4 #ahde-ge4     7c7     
,gauze ,ball ,dress4 #ahdj-ee4          
,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aah4--;,dress     
improv]s1 #ahfe-ahge4  ,mantles ( a     
cumb]some type & %ot-silk capes ) long  
po9t$ fronts 7 worn1 (t5 heavily fr+$1 !
 =m] also be+ mo/ly decorat$ ) braid$   
designs4 ,l>ge ,paisley %awls 7 mu* us$ 
all ?r\gh ?is reign1 besides ! cape &   
hood ) its f9e tassels :i* became v     
fa%ionable 9 ! sixties4  ,gloves &      
mitt5s are se5 bo? long & %ort1 ! latt] 
(t5 beautifully embroid]$ on ! back 9 ! 

,fr5* /yle4 ,h&-bags 7 (t5 c>ri$1 ( :i* 
examples are giv5 9 ! plates ( a v>iety 
( %apes2 ! fav\rite mat]ials = _! make 7
 velvets & silks decorat$ ) bullion1    
sequ9s1 braids1 ne$lework1 & beads1 & ^!
 bags 7 ri*ly set 9 gilt1 silv]1 or /eel
 m\nts4  ,p>asols 7 /ill heavily fr+$1 &
 7 ( ! usual %apes4 ,a v small "o 0     
c>ri$ 9 ! c>riages1 & are ev5 se5 on !  
ladies' driv+ :ips4  ,%oes cont9u$ 9 !  
same heelless s&al "* to ! sixties =    
ev5+ we>1 b f ! =ties mo/ outdoor %oes  
_h a heel & l>ge rosettes4 ,) ! sev5ties
 came r\nd toes ) a l[ r\nd front & b[1 
& high %ap$ heels came to /ay till !    
pres5t day4 ,boots ( :ite sat91 kid1 or 
col\r$ silks 7 *iefly worn till !       
sev5ties1 rea*+ j above ! ankle1 lac$ up
 ! inn] side1 b _m wore ela/ic sides f !
 fifties2 ! toes ( ^! 7 r squ>e1 & a    
toe-cap & front seam 0 made 9 _m ( ?is  
type4 ,9 ! =ties a tight rosette 0      
sometimes plac$ l[ d[n t[>ds ! toes1 &  
lat]1 a huge b[ 0 sewn on ! front4 ,high
 boots button$ t[>ds ! side & v mu*     

%ap$1 ) po9t$ r\nd toes & high heels 7  
sometimes lac$ & f9i%$ ) a pair (       
tassels4 ,spats 7 always fa%ionable     
?r\gh ?is p]iod4   ,,n9ete5? ,,c5tury4  
,,victoria4 ,,male4  ,! same modes ( do+
 ! hair rema9$ till ! sixties1 p>t$ at  
"o side & worn r long & wav$1 ) ! side  
:isk]s or be>d all r\nd ! *94 ,! side   
:isk]s 7 all[$ to gr[ long betwe5       
fifty-five & sev5ty1 & full be>ds also  
became fa%ionable1 :ile ! hair 0 p>t$ 9 
! c5tre f front to back & flatt5$ on !  
=ehead4  ,! fav\rite top-hat /ill reign$
 supreme1 _m ( :i* reta9$ ! tap]$ top & 
l>ge curl$ brim till ab\t #ahee1 & a    
bell %ape 0 frequ5tly se5 9 ! fifties1 b
 ! real /raight *imney %ape 0 se5       
?r\gh\t till ! eighties1 ) a r n>r[     
brim1 & (t5 ( :ite or fawn-col\r$ clo?4 
,! b[l] hat increas$ 9 appreciation1 be+
 ( a %ort type1 ) smalli% brim4 ,a %ort 
flat felt hat1 ) r /raight brim1 also   
came into fav\r f ! fifties2 little r\nd
 caps & caps ) e>-flaps1 = travell+1 c41
 7 also 9 g5]al use4  ,! frock-coat kept

 ! r tight sleeves & tight wai/1 & full 
squ>e skirt1 ) back pockets1 also a deep
 lapel1 sometimes ) a velvet coll>1 &   
small cuffs2 a brea/-pocket 0 (t5 plac$ 
on ! left side1 & 9 ! fifties ! type (  
morn+ coat ) r\nd$-(f fronts at ! skirt 
appe>$1 also a small coll> & lapel4     
,squ>e-cut jackets & twe$ suits simil>  
to our pres5t %apes1 b heavi] 9 cut & ) 
braid$ edges1 7 mu* 9 use4 ,velvet or   
fur-trimm$ ov]coats1 & heavy            
travell+-coats1 also capes & ,inv]ness  
capes1 7 all 9 vogue4  ,wai/coats became
 button$ high] 9 ! neck1 & ! /ock-coll> 
0 supplant$ 9 ! sixties by a turn-d[n   
coll>1 & small tie or loose b[2 _m /ill 
affect$ ! black /ock & po9t$ coll> to ! 
sev5ties1 :5 a high r\nd coll> began to 
appe>4  ,col\r$ & fancy wai/coats 7 mu* 
worn till ! eighties1 & ev5+ dress 0    
simil> to ! pres5t cut1 ) slight        
diff]5ces 9 ! l5g? ( lapels & wai/coat  
front4  ,! tr\s]s 7 made ) ! front flap 
till !y 7 button$ d[n ! front ab\t      
#ahde1 & side pockets became g5]al4     

,braids may be not$ d[n ! sides 9 !     
fifties1 & are se5 n[ & !n all ?r\gh !  
reign1 :ile l>ge plaids & /ripes 7      
highly e/eem$4  ,%ort ,well+ton boots 7 
*iefly pref]r$ up to ! sixties1 &       
tr\s]-/raps & spats 7 fa%ionable all    
?r\gh ! reign4 ,! heavi] lace-up boot   
came 9 dur+ ! fifties1 & a v %ap$ type (
 fa%ion appe>$ 9 ! sixties4  ,hav+ n[   
complet$ ! g5]al survey ( ,co/ume1 !    
foll[+ pages are giv5 up to ! cut &     
measurem5ts ( v>i\s antique g>m5ts4     
,,patt]ns ,,( ,,v>i\s ,,reigns ,,f      
,,antique ,,co/ume  ,,) ,,notes ,,&     
,,measurem5ts   ,i h /riv5 to ga!r z _m 
repres5tative patt]ns ( dress types &   
accessories z possible1 & also give _m  
measurem5ts f ! v>i\s examples1 :5 ,i h 
be5 unable to obta9 a complete patt]n4  
,! "* ( cut & proportion is ! ess5tial  
po9t 9 ! /udy ( dress design1 & !       
intimate k ( p]iods4 ,:5 see+ a         
collection ( patt]ns1 "o is a/oni%$ at !
 great v>iety 9 cut us$ to arrive at !  
diff]5t bodice types4 ,sev]al patt]ns ( 

s+le pieces are giv51 z x aids "o to f9d
 ! fell[-"p2 = example1 ! photo ( a back
 giv5 9 ,fig4 ,c1 ,plate ,,iii 7see p4  
#ee71 w g ) ! front cut on page #bij2   
ev5 ?\gh ^! two pieces did n belong to !
 same body1 ! cut is se5 f :i* to design
 ! miss+ "p4 ,(t5 a small piece is want+
 = ! top ( ! %\ld]1 :i* c easily be     
suppli$ to fill ! sleeve measurem5t4 ,! 
types ( trimm+s 9 ! diff]5t c5turies w  
soon be acquir$ by a c>eful /ud5t1 & !  
proportions ( patt]ns w be valu$ = ga9+ 
! "*4 ,i believe ) ?is collection "o    
c\ld get ! true effects ( any /yle (    
dress se5 9 ! p]iod pr9ts4 ,! draw+s are
 mo/ly scal$ = ! half1 & ! measurem5t1 9
 in*es1 w be f\nd by dots on ! top ( !  
collotypes1 & by a m>k$ l9e on ! patt]n 
pages4  ,"o mu/ note1 ) ! #ah?-c5tury   
dress1 ! sleeve cuffs c be *ang$1 s ,i  
give1 on page #cjj1 a full-size         
measurem5t ( ! elb[-cuff se5 9 ,fig4 ,a1
 ,plate ,,xvi 7see p4 #afg71 & a deep]  
"o ( ?is /yle is se5 on ,fig4 ,c1 ,plate
 ,,xii 7see p4 #ace71 ga!r$ sev5 times  

at ! elb[4 ,! pla9 squ>e type 0 pleat$ 9
 ! front z giv5 on page #cjj1 & a v>iety
 ( ?is "* is %[n on ,fig4 ,b1 ,plate    
,,xv 7see p4 #aed74 ,?\gh _m patt]ns may
 be f\nd rem>kable 9 proportions1 an    
all[ance is (t5 to be made = !          
und]sett+1 z well z = ! ?ick1 /raight   
corsets worn to ! end ( ! #ah? c5tury4  
,i give sev]al specim5s ( quilt+ on     
petticoats ( ! #ah? c5tury1 :i* w       
probably be f\nd useful to arti/s2 !    
measurem5t is also giv5 ( _!            
circumf]5ce1 :i* atta9$ simil>          
proportions to ^? set on ! ,victorian   
cr9ol9es1 go+ #c to #d y>ds r\nd3 f\r   
#ah? c5tury ones measur$ #ajj1 #aad1    
#aaf1 #abj in*es1 & !y are (t5 #a in*   
long] at ! sides1 to all[ = sett+ ov] ! 
panni]s2 a patt]n is giv5 on pages #bac 
& #ccb4 ,! embroid]$ pockets on page    
#cjj 7 worn 9 pairs at ! sides on !     
petticoats1 & only %[$ :5 ! dress 0     
loop$ up4 ,! extra lawn sleeves1 giv5 on
 page #bhg1 %[ h[ preci\s ! sup]f9e l95 
0 held1 ) its sup]b ga!r$ "w1 lace      

ruffles1 & (t5 f9e embroid]y2 ^! pieces 
c\ld be look$ aft] ) special c>e 9 !    
laundry1 & c\ld be tack$1 p9n$1 or      
button$ on :5 requir$4  ,! #af? & #ag?  
c5tury coll>s 7 mo/ly atta*$ to ! *emise
 or %irt1 z is se5 9 _m ( ! old pr9ts4  
,on page #bhi ,i give examples ( %ape ( 
! v>i\s /oma*]s1 :i* w be f\nd useful = 
gett+ ! *>act]i/ic proportions4 ,!      
sc>ves worn r\nd ! body ( ! #ag? c5tury 
cavali]s 7 f #b feet #c in*es wide to #c
 feet #f in*es1 & f #h feet #f in*es to 
#g feet 9 l5g?4  ,illu/ration3 ,plate   
,,xxxii4--      7a7 ,silk ,dress4       
#ahfj-gj4           ,patt]n1 see p4     
#cdf4     7b7 ,gauze ,walk+ ,dress4     
#ahej-fj4     7c7 ,silk ,dress4         
#ahdh-eh4           ,patt]n1 see p4     
#cdd4  ,! /ock+ top1 ,fig4 ,c1 ,plate   
,,vi 7see p4 #gd71 is probably ( simil> 
proportions to ! wooll5 "o 9 ! ,victoria
 & ,alb]t ,museum1 on :i* ! bell-top    
circumf]5ce is #cf in*es1 & ! full l5g? 
( /ock+ #ch in*es4 ,on page #bhe a cap (
 ?ree pieces is giv52 _! real design is 

at pres5t unkn[n1 b ,i tru/ ! ,museum   
au?orities may soon discov] _! plac+1 = 
_m ( ^! pieces are 9 exi/5ce1 & ?is set 
9 my collection is impress$ ) a         
beautiful patt]n4 ,! bodice1 ,fig ,a1   
,plate ,x 7see p4 #aai71 %\ld h be5 set 
on a /iff-front$ corset to give x !     
/raight /yle1 z x is *>m+ly proportion$ 
& clean 9 outl9e4 ,i h also measur$ a   
%ort circul> cloak ( ! e>ly #ag? c5tury1
 :i* is #cd in*es 9 diamet]1 ) a squ>e  
coll> #aj in*es deep2 & ano!r cape ( !  
late #af? c5tury1 #dj in*es 9 diamet]4  
,on page #bij w be f\nd ! small] tabs   
:i* are plac$ r\nd ! j]k91 ) a deep     
front po9t1 z 9 ,fig4 ,a1 ,plate ,,viiia
 7see p4 #ajc72 ! coll> ( ?is type (t5  
rises #b-c_/d in*es 9 ! front to #c     
in*es at ! back1 9 ord] to c>ry ! /iff  
ruff or deep turn$-d[n coll>4 ,tabs ( ! 
smalle/ dim5sions1 9 ! e>li] ,elizabe? &
 ,james "*1 g5]ally h six pieces f front
 to ! middle ( ! back1 :i* are f #b to  
#c in*es deep4 ,! epaulets are made 9   
small /iff tabs1 caught toge!r 9 two    

places only1 & s h pl5ty ( give 9 !     
%\ld] movem5ts2 !y run to #b-a_/d in*es 
at ! wide/ "p1 & d n cont9ue "r "u !    
arm4 ,fig4 ,d1 ,plate ,v 7see p4 #ga71  
has ! middle seam ( ! back op5 f ! wai/ 
to )9 #b in*es ( ! coll>1 :i* is        
noticeable on _m ( ! lat] ,*>les ,i     
coats4 ,long aprons are conspicu\s ?r\gh
 ! #ag? c5tury1 & "o measur$ 0 #db in*es
 wide1 ga!r$ to #ae in*es at ! wai/2 !y 
7 decorat$ ) ?ree b&s ( embroid]$       
ins]tion d[n ! front1 ) a #c-;in* pla9  
bord]1 edg$ ) small lace2 ?is is typical
 9 "* ( design1 z is also ! same /yle ( 
l95 cape se5 on a figure1 page #aei4 ,a 
simil> "o1 l5t by ,sir ,rob]t ,film]1 is
 at ! ,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum2 also a
 cap1 ( :i* ,i give a patt]n1 ,a1 page  
#bhe4 ,! small] type ( embroid]$ aprons 
( ! late #ag? & #ah? c5turies measure   
#dj in*es wide1 #ai-a_/b in*es deep1 ) !
 c5tre dipp+ to #ag-c_/d in*es2 ano!r   
%ape is #bf in*es wide1 #ah in*es 9     
c5tre1 & #ac-a_/b in*es on sides4 ,!    
bodice1 ) deep skirt1 ,fig4 ,b1 ,plate  

,,xviii 7see p4 #ahc71 is a type se5 all
 ?r\gh ! #ah? c5tury1 bo? long] & %ort] 
9 ! skirt4 ,! patt]n ( ! #ag?-c5tury    
bree*es is int]e/+ z reg>ds ! cut1 !    
upp] "p be+ kept pla91 o!rwise ! ga!r$  
fullness w\ld h di/urb$ ! set ( ! j]k9  
tabs2 ! b& ( ^! bree*es has six hooks   
ei!r side to back1 :i* fa/5 to eyes on  
an "u flap sewn on body ( j]k94 ,!      
epaulet on ?is patt]n is only a         
#c_/d-;in* piece1 braid$ ) two n>r[     
braids1 & ! b[s on tabs are ( ribbon1   
#a-a_/b in*es wide4  ,! ?ree patt]ns (  
capes giv5 on pages #cdi1 #cej w be f\nd
 useful1 z !y are simple & v typical ( !
 ,victorian times1 long %awls be+       
o!rwise mu* us$4 ,! fullness ( !        
,elizabe?an ov]dress se5 on ,b1 ,plate  
,,ii 7see p4 #db71 is #ff in*es to !    
back seam1 & ! ,fig4 ,c1 on ! same      
plate1 is #dg in*es4 ,! jump1 or jacket1
 ,fig4 ,a1 ,plate ,,iii 7see p4 #ee71 is
 #ajj in*es r\nd1 ! fullness ( ! sleeve 
#ac in*es1 & ! l5g? ( back #cb in*es4   
,an ov]-tunic ( ! e>ly #ag? c5tury is   

int]e/+ to exam9e1 ?\gh x is a specim5 (
 ,g]man co/ume4  ,illu/ration3 ,plate   
,,xxxiii4--      7a7 ,silk ,dress )     
,c\rt ,tra94 #ahbh-ch4     7b7 ,silk    
,aft]noon ,dress4 #ahgb-gh4     7c7     
,silk ,coat & ,skirt4 #ahee-fe4         
,patt]n1 see p4 #cbj4     ,,patt]ns ,,to
 ,,scale  ,= ,detail$ ,li/1 see page    
#cec4   ,illu/ration3 ,,patt]n #a4      
,made 9 sat9 on wood  ,piccadilloes     
#aehj-afcj  ,side view op5  ,ga!r to a  
r+ at m>k  ,ga!r to a r+ at m>k  ,a pair
 belong+ above  #c ,caps #af-ag? c4  #ab
 94 ties  #afjj-afej #ag? c4  ,o!rs     
measure #afx#ad #adx#i #acx#i  ,cap     
#af-ag? c4  ,cap ( pi]c$ embroid]y1 late
 #ag?  e>ly #ah? c5t4  ,illu/ration3    
,,patt]n #b4  #ag? c4 ,/ock1 ,*as4 ,,ii4
  #ah? c4  ,/iff gorget = c>ry+ ,coll>  
,/ock  ,cap1 embroid]$1 #a/ half #ah? c4
  ,coll> & caps1 #ag c5tury             
,illu/ration3 ,,patt]n #c4  ,ruff1      
#aeij-afaj  #bd 94 r\nd  #ae r\nd  #bj  
94 r\nd  #ah c5tury  #ad  #a/ half (    
#ag? c4  #aj  ,caps & ,extra ,sleeves ( 

,f9e ,l95 #ag c5tury  ,illu/ration3     
,,patt]n #d4  ,embroid]$ l95 jacket1    
front & sleeve1 #af? c5tury  ,embroid]$ 
l95 bodice ,front1 ,*as4 ,i4            
,illu/ration3 ,,patt]n #e4  ,elizabe?an 
j]k9 ( pun*$ lea!r4  ,gold embroid]$    
/oma*]1 ab\t #afjj-cj  #affj-afhi       
#afij-agcj  #afhj-agcj  ,illu/ration3   
,,patt]n #f4  ,set ( tabs = male j]k91  
#ag c5t4  ,back  ,front  ,side  ,patt]n 
type f work$ pieces ,elizabe?an reign   
#aegj-afje  ,illu/ration3 ,,patt]n #g4  
,circul> ,cape1 #ag c5t4  ,coll>  ,jo9  
top & ga!r at dots4  ,cap1 #aehj-afcj4  
,illu/ration3 ,,patt]n #h4  ,bodice     
,fig4 #a ,plate #aj  ,illu/ration3      
,,patt]n #i4  ,corset1 #afbj-fj  ,cut ( 
bodice1 ,fig4 ,b1 ,plate #e  ,corset1   
#affe-he  ,corset1 #afhe-agje           
,illu/ration3 ,,patt]n #aj4  #bf buttons
  ,sleeve seam  ,/>t epaulette  ,f9i%   
,scale  ,coll>  ,simil> type to ,fig4   
,c1 ,plate #g  ,j]k9 ( :ite quilt$ sat9 
,see page opposite = ,bree*es ( same1   
#afbj-afdj4 ,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum1 

,k5s+ton4  ,illu/ration3 ,,patt]n #aa4  
,bree*es1 #afae-fj  ties  pocket  pocket
  ,full$  ,hooks to fa/5 to j]k9        
,illu/ration3 ,,patt]n #ab4  sleeve  #ce
 buttons  ,neck ,b&  ,buttons #c_/d 94  
,op5  #ab buttons  ,full cape coat1 ,v4 
,a4 ,museum1 ab\t #afdj-fh              
,illu/ration3 ,,patt]n #ac4  ,back (    
bodice1 ,fig4 ,b1 ,plate #g4  #ac-a_/b  
,front to back ( epaulette  ,male cap1  
e>ly #ah c5tury  ,illu/ration3 ,,patt]n 
#ad4  #b coll>s1 "t ,*as4 ,,ii4         
,illu/ration3 ,,patt]n #ae4  ,jacket4   
,fig4 ,c1 ,plate #d  ,top sleeve  ,op5  
to m>k  ,op5  ,op5  ,illu/ration3       
,,patt]n #af4  ,sleeve cuffs1 #ah c5t4  
,e>ly type  ,late type  #afij-agej1 #b  
pockets  ,hang+ sleeve ( ,fig4 ,c1      
,plate #b  ,op5  ,embroid]$ bodice      
fronts1 e>ly #ah c5tury  ,illu/ration3  
,,patt]n #ag4  ,quilt$ l95 corsage1     
#affj-agae  ,op5  ,h]ald's coat1 ,fig4  
,a1 ,plate #g4 ,victoria  ,alb]t ,museum
  ,op5  ,op5  ,illu/ration3 ,,patt]n    
#ah4  ,front ( embroid]$ l95 sleev$     

wai/coat1 #afij-agbj  ,victoria & ,alb]t
 ,museum  ,illu/ration3 ,,patt]n #ai4   
,inn] ve/  ,sleeve wai/coat1 e>ly #ah?  
c5t4  ,sleeve to lace on  ,op5 to m>k   
,illu/ration3 ,,patt]n #bj4  ,bree*es1  
#affj-agbj  ,button  ,pleat  ,pocket    
,op5 = pocket  ,fullness  ,op5  ,pocket 
,illu/ration3 ,,patt]n #ba4  ,bree*es1  
#ah? c5tury  ,wai/  ,ga!r  ,op5  ,top   
,knee /rap  ,wai/  ,loose flap  ,pocket 
,pocket  ,illu/ration3 ,,patt]n #bb4    
,fly knee  ,bree*es1 #ah? c5tury        
,illu/ration3 ,,patt]n #bc4  ,coat1     
,fig4 ,b1 ,plate #bf  ,d>t  ,op5 to wai/
  ,coll>  ,illu/ration3 ,,patt]n #bd4   
,coat1 ,fig4 ,b1 ,plate #ac  ,jo9$ "u   
pleat  ,pocket  ,pocket  ,small pocket  
op5  caught  op5  ,op5  ,side tab       
,cord]oy tr\s]s #ahae4  ,illu/ration3   
,,patt]n #be4  ,fig4 ,a1 ,plate #ae     
,coat1 #agge-ij  ,cuff  ,b& to draw up  
,op5  ,d\ble  ,"u coll>  ,turnov] coll> 
,pocket  ,pleat  ,op5  ,op5  #ae 94 tie 
,lea!r ,bree*es1 #ahjj-cj  ,/raw hat1   
#ahaf-cj  ,illu/ration3 ,,patt]n #bf4   

,jo9  ,fold  ,"u coll>  ,turnov] coll>  
,pleat  ,op5 to wai/  ,coat1 #aghd-id   
,directoire type ,see ,,fig4 #ajf       
,illu/ration3 ,,patt]n #bg4  ,coll>     
,brea/ pocket1 left only  ,coat1        
#ahcj-ahde ,simil> type to ,fig4 ,c1    
,plate #bf4  ,illu/ration3 ,,patt]n #bh4
  ,pocket  ,slightly ga!r  ,pocket  ,top
  ,foot /rap  ,/rap inside  ,op5  ,foot 
,/rap  ,buff l95 tr\s]s1 #ahaj-ahdj     
,illu/ration3 ,,patt]n #bi4  ,turnov]   
coll>  ,coll> tab  ,pocket flap  ,pocket
  ,pleat  ,jo9$ on wai/coat inside  ,op5
 to m>k  ,coat1 ,fig4 ,a1 ,plate #bf    
,illu/ration3 ,,patt]n #cj4  ,bodice1   
#ahaf-bb  ,trimm+ /ret*$ to curl ov]    
,sleeve /raps  ,coll>  ,wai/  ,ga!r$ 9  
/rap  ,pip$ /raps & seams  ,illu/ration3
 ,,patt]n #ca4  ,bell sleev$ ,bodice1   
#ahdh-eh  ,trimm$ n>r[ velvet braid     
,op5  ,op5  ,illu/ration3 ,,patt]n #cb4 
,bodice ( l95 dress1 ,fig ,a1 ,plate #bb
  ,buttons = front  ,cord = loop+ tra91 
#ij in*es  ,outside sleeve              
,illu/ration3 ,,patt]n #cc4  ,bodice1   

#ahfj-gj  ,bodice1 #ahej-fj type        
,sleeve = net cov]+  ,ga!r$ sleeve      
,bodice1 #ahaf-be  ,illu/ration3        
,,patt]n #cd4  ,jacket bodice1 ,fig4 ,a1
 ,plate #bd  ,illu/ration3 ,,patt]n #ce4
  ,bodice1 #ahde-ee simil> type ,fig4   
,a1 ,plate #cj  ,epaulette  ,b& r\nd    
wai/  ,front  ,illu/ration3 ,,patt]n    
#cf4  ,sleeveless ov]jacket1 e>ly #ah   
c5tury embroid]$  ,wri/ /rap  ,tie on   
,ga!r  ,ga!r  ,/rap  ,ga!r  ,sp5c]1     
#ahbg-cg1 pip$ trimm+  ,illu/ration3    
,,patt]n #cg4  ,bodice1 #ahab-ah  ,top  
,silk to l9e  ,"u l9+  ,illu/ration3    
,,patt]n #ch4  ,corset patt]n1 #ah      
c5tury  ,bodice ( ,fig4 ,a1 ,plate #ad  
,illu/ration3 ,,patt]n #ci4  ,simil>    
type ( ,bodice to ,fig4 ,b1 ,plate #ad4 
,bodice ) type ( pleat$ back1 #agbj-ej  
,box pleats  ,pleat$ back  ,l9+ = front 
,l9+ = back  ,lac$  ,illu/ration3       
,,patt]n #dj4  ,tab ga!r$ 9 c5tre trimm+
 on epaulette  ,cape  ,epaulette b&     
,wai/ b&  ,coll>  ,patt]n1 ,fig4 ,c1    
,plate #bh  ,?ickly kilt$ skirt to      

bodice1 #bf ins4  ,bodice1 ,fig4 ,a1    
,plate #ah  ,illu/ration3 ,,patt]n #da4 
,z\ave jacket1 late #ah c5tury  ,ga!r   
,bodice1 #ahah-bh  ,illu/ration3        
,,patt]n #db4  ,silk jacket1 ,fig4 ,b1  
,plate #ai  ,ga!r$  ,pleat              
,illu/ration3 ,,patt]n #dc4  ,bodice1   
,fig4 ,c1 ,plate #ah  ,illu/ration3     
,,patt]n #dd4  ,bodice1 ,fig4 ,a1 ,plate
 #cj  ,wri/  ,b]?a  ,ga!r  ,ga!r        
,illu/ration3 ,,patt]n #de4  ,cas$      
,pleat  ,pleats  ,op5  ,op5  ,op5 to m>k
  ,pocket  ,coat1 ,fig4 ,c1 ,plate #cc  
,illu/ration3 ,,patt]n #df4  ,wai/  ,s4 
l9+  ,puff sleeve  ,ga!r  ,ga!r         
,illu/ration3 ,,patt]n #dg4  ,dress1    
#ahje-ahah  ,pleat$  ,pleat  ,apron     
front  ,ga!r$  ,mob ,cap1 #aghj-ahjj    
,ga!r$ 9 b&  ,trimm$ d\ble lace frill   
r\nd front  ,wid? ( ins]tion  ,cap )    
comb1 #agij-ahjj  ,puff comb            
,illu/ration3 ,,patt]n #dh4  ,pleat$    
,pleat$  ,pleat$  ,side plaquet  ,quilt$
 petticoat1 #agdj-gj  ,wai/ b&          
,illu/ration3 ,,patt]n #di4  ,pleats    

,pleat to not*  ,made 9 l9+  ,petticoat1
 ,fig4 ,b1 ,plate #af  ,top             
,illu/ration3 ,,patt]n #ej4  ,dress1    
,fig4 ,b1 ,plate #af  ,pleat  ,"u corset
  ,l9+ back  ,illu/ration3 ,,patt]n #ea4
  ,dress1 ,fig4 ,c1 ,plate #af  ,neck   
,l9+  ,box pleats  ,small pleats  ,s    
pleats  ,small pleats  ,s4 pleats       
,pleat  ,illu/ration3 ,,patt]n #eb4     
,pleat  ,pleat  ,pleat  ,pleat  ,pleat  
,pleat  ,:ite l95 dress1 #agie-ahje     
,front  ,sleeve  ,ga!r  ,button         
,outside sleeve  ,caught up ?us         
,illu/ration3 ,,patt]n #ec4  ,ga!r$     
,op5 to m>k  ,ga!r$  ,/rip$ cotton      
dress1 #ahje-ae  ,ga!r$  ,coll>  ,front 
,wri/  #c sleeve frills  ,op5  ,ga!r    
,illu/ration3 ,,patt]n #ed4  ,patt]n (  
"u robe1 #ahah-cj  ,ga!r$  ,ga!r$  ,wai/
  ,sleeve  ,s4 placquets  ,illu/ration3 
,,patt]n #ee4  ,wai/ b&  ,neck b&       
,ga!r$  ,cuff  ,top  ,ga!r$  ,patt]n (  
,fig ,c1 ,plate #be  ,illu/ration3      
,musl9 dress1 #ahbb-cb  ,cuff  ,yoke    
,,patt]n #ef4  ,illu/ration3 ,,patt]n   

#eg4  ,ga!r  ,ga!r  ,sat9 dress1        
#ahcg-de  ,ga!r  ,ga!r  ,top            
,illu/ration3 ,,patt]n #eh4  ,top ga!r$ 
to a ,fold r\nd sleeve  ,ga!r$  ,dress1 
,fig4 ,c1 ,plate #bi  ,ga!r$  ,ga!r$    
,ga!r  ,cape  ,ga!r$  ,ga!r$  ,wai/     
,wai/  ,ga!r  ,ga!r  ,illu/ration3      
,,patt]n #ei4  ,dress1 ,fig4 ,b1 ,plate 
#bh  ,ga!r$  ,ga!r$  ,ga!r$  ,ga!r$  ,b&
 front ( wai/  ,wai/  ,illu/ration3     
,,patt]n #fj4  ,ga!r  ,ga!r  ,dress1    
,fig4 ,c1 ,plate #cb4  ,trimm+ ov] %\ld]
  ,top  ,ga!r  ,ga!r  ,tight pleats     
,wai/  ,illu/ration3 ,,patt]n #fa4      
,lady's coat1 #ahef-gj  ,illu/ration3   
,,patt]n #fb4  ,blue silk dress1        
#ahfj-gj  ,fig4 ,a1 ,plate #cb  ,scale  
#f in*es  ,ga!r  ,ga!r  ,pleat          
,illu/ration3 ,,patt]n #fc4  ,reef$     
polonaise1 p9k$ edge1 #ahfj-gj  ,scale  
in*es  ,ga!r  ,pla9  ,ga!r  ,pla9       
,pleat  ,ga!r  ,puff sleeve l9+  ,reef$ 
up  ,ties  ,puff sleeve  ,illu/ration3  
,,patt]n #fd4  ,lady's jacket1 ,fig4 ,c1
 ,plate #ai  ,ga!r$  ,pleat$            

,illu/ration3 ,,patt]n #fe4  ,fullness =
 arm  ,an int]e/+ cape ( %ot silk1      
#ahdj-ej  ,illu/ration3 ,,patt]n #ff4   
,cut 9 "o  ,front  ,cape coll>  #b      
pieces  ,black velvet cape1 #ahcj-dj    
,victorian cape1 #ahfj-ge  ,same cut f  
#dj ins4  ,illu/ration3 ,,patt]n #fg4   
,sleeve1 #af c5tury  ,coll>  ,cut (     
,d\blet & sla%$ sleeve1 #afbj-dj        
,sleeve1 #afbj-dj4  ,epaulette  ,cut (  
boy's /ays1 coat1 ve/1 #agjj-fj         
,illu/ration3 ,,patt]n #fh4  ,male ,robe
 #afjj-be  ,black felt ,puritan hat1    
#afdj-fj  ,v4 & ,a4 ,museum  ,black     
velvet hat1 #afjj-bj     ,,detail$ ,,li/
 ,,( ,,scal$ ,,patt]ns       ,patt]n #a1
 page #bhe3--       ,piccadillo1        
#aehj-afcj4       ,?ree caps1 #af-ag    
c5tury4       ,cap ( ?ree pieces1 #af-ag
 c4       ,triangul> cap1 #af-ag c4     
,long cap1 #ag c4       ,cap1 late #ag  
c41 e>ly #ah c4      ,patt]n #b1 page   
#bhf3--       #d coll>s1 #ag c4         
,gorget ( l951 #ag c4       #b /ocks1   
#ag & #ah c4       #c male caps & #a    

female1 #ag & #ah c4      ,patt]n #c1   
page #bhg3--       ,ruff1 #ag c4        
#d extra l95 sleeves1 #ag & "o #ah c4   
#b caps1 female1 #ag c4      ,patt]n #d1
 page #bhh3--       ,front ( l95 jacket1
 #af c4       ,front ( l95 bodice1      
,*>les ,i4      ,patt]n #e1 page #bhi3--
       ,elizabe?an j]k94       #d       
/oma*]s1 #ag & #ah c4      ,patt]n #f1  
page #bij3--       ,set ( tabs = male   
j]k91 #ag c4       ,patt]n type1 sleeve 
& bodice front1 #aegj-afje4      ,patt]n
 #g1 page #bia3--       ,circul> cape1  
#ag c4       ,cap1 female1 #aehj-afcj4  
,patt]n #h1 page #bib3--       ,bodice1 
,fig4 #a1 ,plate ,x1 ,james ,i4         
,patt]n #i1 page #bic3--       #c       
corsets & bodice (1 ,fig4 #b1 ,plate ,v1
 #ag c4      ,patt]n #aj1 page #bid3--  
,j]k9 ( :ite quilt$ sat91 #ag c4        
,patt]n #aa1 page #bie3--       ,bree*es
 ( same suit4      ,patt]n #ab1 page    
#bif3--       ,cape-coat1 #ag c4        
,patt]n #ac1 page #big3--       ,back ( 
bodice1 ,plate ,,vii1 #ag c4       ,%ap$

 cap1 male1 #ag & #ah c4      ,patt]n   
#ad1 page #bih3--       #b coll>s1      
,*>les ,,ii4      ,patt]n #ae1 page     
#bii3--       ,jacket1 ,fig4 ,c1 ,plate 
,,iv1 #ag c4      ,patt]n #af1 page     
#cjj3--       #b sleeve-cuffs1 #ah c4   
#b embroid]$ pockets1 #ag & #ah c4      
,hang+ sleeve1 ,fig4 ,c1 ,plate ,,ii1   
#af-ag c4       ,embroid]$ bodice       
fronts1 #ag-ah c4      ,patt]n #ag1 page
 #cja3--       ,quilt$ l95 corsage1     
#affj-agae4       ,h]ald's coat1 ,fig4  
,a1 ,plate ,,vii1 #af-ag c4      ,patt]n
 #ah1 page #cjb3--       ,sleev$        
wai/coat1 #afij-agbj4      ,patt]n #ai1 
page #cjc3--       ,sleev$ wai/coat &   
ve/1 e>ly #ah c4      ,patt]n #bj1 page 
#cjd3--       ,bree*es1 #affj-agbj4     
,patt]n #ba1 page #cje3--               
,bree*es1 #ah c4      ,patt]n #bb1 page 
#cjf3--       ,bree*es1 #ah c4          
,patt]n #bc1 page #cjg3--       ,coat1  
,fig4 ,b1 ,plate ,,xxvi1 #ai c4         
,patt]n #bd1 page #cjh3--       ,coat1  
,fig4 ,b1 ,plate ,,xiii1 #ah c4         

,cord]oy tr\s]s1 f #ahae4      ,patt]n  
#be1 page #cji3--       ,coat1 late #ah 
c41 ,fig4 ,a1 ,plate ,,xv4       ,lea!r 
bree*es1 late #ah-ai c4       ,/raw hat1
 #ahaf-cj4      ,patt]n #bf1 page       
#caj3--       ,coat1 #aghd-id4          
,patt]n #bg1 page #caa3--       ,coat1  
#ahcj-de4      ,patt]n #bh1 page #cab3--
       ,buff l95 tr\s]s1 #ahaj-dj4      
,patt]n #bi1 page #cac3--       ,morn+  
coat1 ,fig4 ,a1 ,plate ,,xxvi1 #ai c4   
,patt]n #cj1 page #cad3--       ,bodice1
 #ahaf-bb4      ,patt]n #ca1 page       
#cae3--       ,bell-sleev$ bodice1      
#ahdh-eh4      ,patt]n #cb1 page #caf3--
       ,bodice ( l95 dress1 ,fig4 ,a1   
,plate ,,xxii1 ab\t #ahjj4      ,patt]n 
#cc1 page #cag3--       ,bodice1        
#ahfj-gj4       ,bodice1 #ahej-fj4      
,bodice1 #ahaf-be4      ,patt]n #cd1    
page #cah3--       ,jacket bodice1 ,fig4
 ,a1 ,plate ,,xxiv1 ab\t #ahjj4         
,patt]n #ce1 page #cai3--       ,bodice1
 simil> type1 ,fig4 ,a1 ,plate ,,xxx1   
#ahde-ee4      ,patt]n #cf1 page #cbj3--

       ,sleeveless ov] jacket1 e>ly #ah 
c4       ,sp5c]1 #ahbg-cg4      ,patt]n 
#cg1 page #cba3--       ,bodice1        
#ahab-ah4      ,patt]n #ch1 page #cbb3--
       ,corset patt]n1 #ah c4           
,bodice ( ,fig4 ,a1 ,plate ,,xiv1 #ah c4
      ,patt]n #ci1 page #cbc3--         
,bodice ) type ( pleat$ sack back1      
#agbj-ej4      ,patt]n #dj1 page #cbd3--
       ,bodice1 ,fig4 ,c1 ,plate        
,,xxviii1 #ai c4       ,bodice1 ,fig4   
,a1 ,plate ,,xviii1 #ah c4      ,patt]n 
#da1 page #cbe3--       ,z\ave jacket1  
late #ah c4       ,bodice1 #ahah-bh4    
,patt]n #db1 page #cbf3--       ,silk   
jacket1 ,fig4 ,b1 ,plate ,,xix1 #ah c4  
,patt]n #dc1 page #cbg3--       ,bodice1
 ,fig4 ,c1 ,plate ,,xviii1 #ah c4       
,patt]n #dd1 page #cbh3--       ,bodice1
 ,fig4 ,a1 ,plate ,,xxx1 #ai c4         
,patt]n #de1 page #cbi3--       ,lady's 
coat1 ,fig4 ,c1 ,plate ,,xxxiii4        
,patt]n #df1 ,page #ccj3--              
,polonaise dress1 #ahce-de4      ,patt]n
 #dg1 page #cca3--       ,dress1        

#ahje-ah4       ,mob cap1 #aghj-ahjj4   
,cap ) comb top1 #agij-ahjj4            
,patt]n #dh1 page #ccb3--       ,quilt$ 
petticoat1 #ah c4      ,patt]n #di1 page
 #ccc3--       ,petticoat1 ,fig4 ,b1    
,plate ,,xvi1 #ah c4      ,patt]n #ej1  
page #ccd3--       ,dress1 ,fig4 ,b1    
,plate ,,xvi4      ,patt]n #ea1 page    
#cce3--       ,dress1 ,fig4 ,c1 ,plate  
,,xvi4      ,patt]n #eb1 page #ccf3--   
,:ite l95 dress1 #agie-ahjj4            
,patt]n #ec1 page #ccg3--       ,/rip$  
cotton dress1 #ahje-ae4      ,patt]n    
#ed1 page #cch3--       ,patt]n ( "u    
robe1 #ahah-cj4      ,patt]n #ee1 page  
#cci3--       ,dress1 ,fig4 ,c1 ,plate  
,,xxv4      ,patt]n #ef1 page #cdj3--   
,musl9 dress1 #ahbb-cb4      ,patt]n    
#eg1 page #cda3--       ,sat9 dress1    
#ahcg-dg4      ,patt]n #eh1 page #cdb3--
       ,dress1 ,fig4 ,c1 ,plate ,,xxix4 
,patt]n #ei1 page #cdc3--       ,dress1 
,fig4 ,b1 ,plate ,,xxviii4      ,patt]n 
#fj1 page #cdd3--       ,dress1 ,fig4   
,c1 ,plate ,,xxxii4      ,patt]n #fa1   

page #cde3--       ,lady's coat1        
#ahef-gj4      ,patt]n #fb1 page #cdf3--
       ,silk dress1 ,fig4 ,a1 ,plate    
,,xxxii1 #ahfj-gj4      ,patt]n #fc1    
page #cdg3--       ,reef$ polonaise1    
#ahfj-gj4      ,patt]n #fd1 page #cdh3--
       ,lady's jacket1 ,fig4 ,c1 ,plate 
,,xix1 #ah c4      ,patt]n #fe1 page    
#cdi3--       ,cape1 #ahdj-ej4          
,patt]n #ff1 page #cej3--       ,cape1  
#ahfj-ge4       ,cape1 #ahcj-dj4        
,patt]n #fg1 page #cea3--       ,upp]   
sleeve & coll>1 #af c4       ,bodice )  
sla%$ sleeve1 #afbj-dj4       ,boy's    
/ays1 coat1 & ve/1 #agjj-fj4            
,patt]n #fh1 page #ceb3--       ,male   
robe1 #afjj-be4       ,puritan hat1     
#afdj-fj4       ,black velvet hat1      
#afjj-bj4     ,,index       ,aprons--   
#ag c5tury1 #ahf1 #bhj       #ah c41    
#aib1 #aih1 #bjf       ,bags1 #aic1     
#bfb1 #bgb      ,b]?a1 #bch1 #beb       
,b\quet ,hold]1 #bfb      ,bree*es--    
,m$iaeval1 #ed       #af c41 #abb1 #acb 
#ag c41 #aeb1 #afd1 #bha       #ai c41  

#bdh1 #bef1 #bfd      ,bu/le1 #bbf      
,cala%1 #bag      ,capes--       #af c41
 #acb1 #bgi       #ag c41 #ahd       #ai
 c41 #bdd1 #bfb1 #bfd1 #bgd1 #bha       
,*a9 ,ornam5ts--       to #ae c41 #fb1  
#gb       #af c41 #aaj1 #abd            
,cloaks--       to #ae c41 #ed1 #gj     
#ag c41 #aeb1 #afd1 #agf1 #ahj1 #bgi    
#ah c41 #bbb      ,coll>s--       #af   
c41 #aab1 #abh1 #abi1 #aci1 #bgh        
#ag c41 #ade1 #aeh1 #afj1 #agb1 #agd    
#ai c41 #bdd1 #bdf      ,corsets--      
to #ae c41 #fb1 #ff       #af c41 #aaj1 
#aaf1 #ach       #ag c41 #aeh1 #afi1    
#agb       #ah c41 #baa1 #bgh       #ai 
c41 #bej      ,cr9ol9es1 #bgj1 #bgh     
,decorative ,/yles--       ,black-/it*  
"w1 #abb1 #abi       ,braid$1 #aaj1     
#aaa1 #acb1 #adb1 #adc1 #add1 #ade1     
#adf1 #ahb1 #ahh1 #bjj1                 
#bch1 #bdd1 #bgb       ,button1 #aaj1   
#adc1 #add1 #adf1 #ahb1 #baj            
,lac$1 #gj1 #hh1 #ib1 #aaj1 #aaf        
,pip$1 #bch1 #bdd       ,pleat$1 #aaa1  
#adj       ,prick$1 #aaa1 #adj1 #adb1   

#aeb       ,pun*$1 #aaa1 #adj1 #adb1    
#aeb       ,puff$1 #hh1 #ib1 #aaj1 #aaf1
 #aah1 #abb1 #abi1 #adb1 #adf1 #aej1    
#ahj1 #bfj       ,purfl$1 #ade1 #afd1   
#aij       ,ribbon1 #ade1 #agb1 #agf1   
#agh1 #aia1 #bec       ,s]rat$ or %ap$  
edg+1 #ga1 #if1 #aaj1 #adf1 #aia1 #bad1 
#beb       ,sla%+1 #ib1 #aaa1 #aab1     
#aac1 #aaf1 #aah1 #abb1 #adj1 #adb1     
#ade1 #aeb1                 #aeh1 #afd  
,/raw-"w1 #aaa1 #aia       ,tassel1 #bch
       ,t9sel1 #bcg       ,tulle1 #bch  
,d\blets1 #acb1 #aci      ,dress--      
,prehi/oric1 female1 #dj2         male1 
#da       to #aj c41 female1 #de1 #df1  
#dh2         male1 #eb1 #ed       #aj to
 #ae c41 female1 #fb1 #ff1 #fh1 #gj2    
male1 #gf1 #gh1 #hj       #ae c41       
female1 #hd1 #hh1 #ib2         male1    
#ib1 #ajj1 #ajd1 #ajh       #af c41     
#bgh1 #bgi1 #bha4         ,h5ry ,,viii1 
female1 #aac1 #aaf2           male1     
#aah1 #abb4         ,ed4 ,,vi & ,m>y1   
female1 #abd1 #abh2           male1     
#abi1 #acb4         ,eliz41 female1     

#acc1 #acf1 #ach2           male1 #aci1 
#bha       #ag c41 ,james ,i1 female1   
#adg1 #aej2           male1 #aeb1 #aed4 
,*as4 ,i1 female1 #aeh2           male1 
#afj1 #afd1 #afh4         ,commonweal?1 
female & male1 #afh1 #afi4         ,*as4
 ,,ii1 female1 #afi1 #agb2              
male1 #agd1 #agf4         ,james ,,ii1  
female1 #agh1 #ahj2           male1     
#ahb4         ,william & ,m>y1 female1  
#ahd1 #ahe2           male1 #ahf1 #ahh4 
,anne1  female1  #aif2           male1  
#bjj4         ,george ,i1 female1 #bjf2 
male1 #baj       #ah c41  ,george ,,ii1 
female1 #bba2           male1 #bad4     
,george ,,iii to #ahjj1 female1 #bag1   
#bbb1 #bbd1 #bbf1 #bcj2           male1 
#bcb1 #bcd       #ai c41 ,george ,,iii  
7cont9u$71 female1 #bdd1 #bdg2          
male1 #bdg4         ,george ,,iv1       
female1 #bej2           male1 #bed4     
,william ,,iv1 female1 #bfj2            
male1 #bfc4         ,victorian1 female1 
#bfh2           male1 #bgd4       ,note 
also page #ci      ,drill petticoat1    

#bch       ,e>-r+s1 #fb-gb              
,epaulets--       #af c41 #abh1 #abi1   
#acf       #ag c41 #adc1 #aeb1 #bhj1    
#bha       #ai c41 #bej       ,fans--   
#af c41 #abi1 #ach       #ah c41 #aic1  
#bcj       #ai c41 #bdj1 #bec1 #bfb     
,f>?+ale1 #aaa1 #acf      ,foot-we>--   
to ! end ( #ad c41 #dd1 #dh1 #ef1 #gj1  
#hj1 #hb1 #ib       #ae c41 #ajh        
#af c41 ,h5ry ,,viii1 #af1 #abb2        
,ed4 ,,vi & ,m>y1 #abh1 #acb2           
,elizabe?1 #ach1 #adj       #ag c41     
,james ,i1 #aej1 #aed2         ,*as4 ,i1
 #aeh1 #afd2         ,commonweal?1 #afh2
         ,*as1 ,,ii1 #agb1 #agf2        
,james ,,ii1 #ahj1 #ahd2                
,william & ,m>y1 #ahf1 #ahh #ah c41     
#aic2         ,anne1 #aih1 #bja2        
,george ,i1 #bjg1 #baj2         ,george 
,,ii1 #bad1 #baf2         ,george ,,iii 
to #ahjj1 #bcj1 #bcd       #ai c41      
,george ,,iii1 #bdf1 #bdh2              
,george ,,iv1 #bec1 #beh2               
,william ,,iv1 #bfb1 #bfd2              
,victoria1 #bgb1 #bge      ,girdles--   

to #ae c41 #fh1 #gh1 #ib       #af c41  
#aaf      ,gloves--       #af c41 #aaf1 
#abi1 #ach       #ag c41 #afh1 #agb     
#ah c41 #aic1 #bja1 #bad1 #bbf          
,head-dress--       ,prehi/oric1 female1
 #dj2         male1 #db       to #aj c41
 female1 #de2         male1 #di         
#aj to #ae c41 female1 #eg2             
male1 #ga       #ae c41 female1 #hd2    
male1 #ib       #af c41 ,h5ry ,,viii1   
female1 #aac2           male1 #aah4     
,ed4 ,,vi & ,m>y1 female1 #abd2         
male1 #abi4         ,eliz41 female1     
#acc2           male1 #ach       #ag c41
 ,james ,i1 female1 #adg2               
male1 #aej4         ,*as4 ,i1 female1   
#aed2           male1 #afj4             
,commonweal?1 #afh4         ,*as4 ,,ii1 
female1 #afi2           male1 #agd4     
,james ,,ii1 female1 #agh2              
male1 #ahj4         ,william & ,m>y1    
female1 #ahd2           male1 #ahf      
#ah c41 ,anne1 female1 #aic2            
male1 #aih4         ,george ,i1 female1 
#bja2           male1 #bjg4             

,george ,,ii1 female1 #baa2             
male1 #bad4         ,george ,,iii1      
female1 #bag1 #bda2           male1     
#bca1 #bdf4         ,george ,,iv1       
female1 #bdh2           male1 #bed4     
,william ,,iv1 female1 #beh2            
male1 #bfc4         ,victoria1 female1  
#bfd2           male1 #bgc      ,h]aldic
 fa%ion1 #ff1 #ga1 #aji1 #acb      ,hoop
 skirts--       #af c41 #aaf1 #abh1 #acf
       #ag c41 #adg1 #ahe       #ah c41 
#bbb       ,jackets--       to #ae c41  
#ff1 #fh1 #hh1 #ajj       #af c41 #aab1 
#ahb       #ag c41 #adc       #ah c41   
#bbd1 #bbf       #ai c41 #bgj           
,lapets1 #ahd1 #aic1 #bjf1 #bci         
,macc>oni fa%ion1 #bad      ,mantles1   
#bfb1 #bga      ,masks1 #ahf            
,muffs1 #afj1 #agb1 #ahj1 #ahf1 #ahi1   
#aic1 #bja1 #bcj1 #bec       ,neck-we>1 
#agd1 #ahb1 #ahf1 #bjj1 #bjg1 #bcb1     
#bdf1 #bej1 #bed1 #bfc1 #bge            
,ov]coats1 #bcb1 #bed1 #bgd             
,panni]s1 #baa1 #bbb      ,p>asols1     
#bcj1 #bcd1 #bdd1 #bgb      ,patt]ns    

scal$1 #bgf      ,pelisses1 #bdd1 #bej1 
#bfb      ,plates 7collotypes71         
frontispiece1 #ci1 #db1 #ee1 #eh1 #ga1  
#gd1 #hg1 #ij1                          
#ajc1 #ajf1 #aai1 #abb1 #ace1 #ach1     
#aea1 #aed1 #afg1                       
#agj1 #ahc1 #ahf1 #aii1 #bjb1 #bae1     
#bah1 #bca1 #bcd1                       
#bdg1 #bej1 #bei1 #bfc1 #bff1 #bgj1     
#bgi1 #bhb      ,pockets1 #aib1 #bbd    
,polonaise1 #bch1 #bfb      ,purses1    
#bcf1 #bdj1 #bdf       ,quilt+1 #aaa1   
#abh1 #adf1 #agb1 #aib1 #aih1 #baa1     
#bbb1 #bgh       ,ruffs1 #aab1 #aah1    
#abh1 #abi1 #acc1 #acf1 #aci1 #adc1     
#adg1 #aeh1 #afj1 #agb1            #bej1
 #bhj       ,sack-back 7or ,watteau7    
dress1 #acf1 #ahe1 #aia1 #aif1 #bjf1    
#baa1 #bbb      ,sa%es1 #afh1 #ahb1 #bgi
      ,sequ9s1 #aab      ,%awls1 #bgb   
,spats1 #bgc      ,sp5c]s1 #bdd1 #bej   
,/icks1 #aha1 #ahh1 #bja1 #baa1 #bad1   
#bbf1 #bcd      ,/ock+s1 #ach1 #adj1    
#aed1 #afh1 #ahb1 #ahd1 #ahi1 #bja1     
#baj1 #baf1 #bcd1 #bgj      ,/oma*]s1   

#ff1 #aab1 #acf1 #adb1 #add1 #adf1 #adg1
 #aed1 #aeh1 #agb1 #agh1                
#ahd1 #aif1 #bjg1 #bgh         ,pr9t$ by
 ,,spottiswoode1 ,,ballantyne  ,,co4    
,,ltd4     ,col*e/]1 ,london  ,eton1    
,engl&         99       99       99     
99       99     ,,dressmak+             
,,simple ,,dressmak+4 ,by ,,e!l ,r4     
,,hambridge1 ,art ,tea*]s'              
,c]tificate1 etc4 ,9 foolscap #dto1     
clo?1 #bjj pp41 ) #gej plates     &     
black-&-:ite diagrams4 #gs4 #f;d4 net4  
,?is book deals exhau/ively ) ! v>i\s   
/it*es & fa/5+s us$ 9 ,dressmak+ & _!   
applications1 ,press+1 ,mak+-up         
,processes1 ,tak+ ,measurem5ts1         
,cutt+-out2 & also conta9s "s notes on  
,fitt+4  ,simplicity & complet5ess h be5
 ! dual purpose ( ! ,au?or1 & h]        
sy/ematic treatm5t ( ! subject1 aid$ by 
h] rem>kable gift ( lucid explanation1 &
 h] unique practical exp]i5ce1 has      
produc$ a valuable contribution to !    
lit]ature ( ,dome/ic ,sci5ce4           
,,dress ,,cutt+ ,,& ,,mak+4 ,= !        

,classroom1 ,workroom1 & ,home4 ,by     
,,emily ,,wallbank1 ,head ( ! ,ne$lework
 & ,dressmak+ ,dep>tm5t1     ,national  
,tra9+ ,s*ool ( ,cook]y1 & ,,m>ian      
,,wallbank4 ,9     foolscap #dto1 clo?1 
#bga pp41 ) #bfe diagrams &             
illu/rations4     #fs4 net4  ,! object (
 ?is "w w be realiz$ 9 "s degree if x   
helps ! practical read] s to mobilize h]
 k ( und]ly+ causes t %e is able to     
produce any desir$ effect 9 ! cut &     
fa%ion ( a g>m5t4       ,,sir ,,isaac   
,,pitman  ,,sons1 ,,limit$     #a ,,am5 
,,corn]1 ,,london1 ,e4,c4 #d4           
,,embroid]y      ,,an ,,embroid]y       
,,patt]n ,,book4 ,by ,,m>y ,e4 ,,w>+4 ,)
 a ,=eword by     ,pr(essor ,w4 ,r4     
,le?aby1 ,royal ,college ( ,art4 ,9 clo?
 gilt1 #agj     pp41 #b col\r$ plates1 )
 #hd full-page black-&-:ite diagrams4   
#hs4 #f;d4 net4  ,design+ ( ?is sort is 
no my/]y t requires 'g5ius'2 x is ( !   
same k9d z plant+ a g>d5 bord]4444 ,mo/ 
embroid]esses1 :o w beg9 by adapt+ !    
elem5ts giv5 9 ?is ,patt]n ,book1 & ga9 

int]e/ & confid5ce 9 s do+1 w g =w>d    
ins5sibly to v>y+ ! elem5ts !mselves1 & 
to tak+ fl[]s & animals direct f        
,nature4 ,?is 444 is ! "w ( a highly    
compet5t design] ( embroid]y1 & ,i      
he>tily recomm5d x4--,w4 ,r4 ,,le?aby 9 
! ,=eword4      ,,embroid]y  ,,design4  
,by ,,joan ,h4 ,,drew4 ,9 foolscap #dto1
 clo?1 ab\t     #aae pp41 ) #hb         
black-&-:ite illu/rations & designs4    
#es4     net4  ,! writ] endeav\rs to    
ar\se 9 h] read]s a desire = bett]      
designs1 & great] individuality & ?\ght 
9 ! home embroid]y ( to-day4 ,! diff]5ce
 betwe5 decorative & undecorative "w is 
cle>ly expla9$ ) ! aid ( _m             
illu/rations1 & ^! are ( ! "r size =    
trac+ & work+4   ,,sir ,,isaac ,,pitman 
,,sons1 ,,limit$     ,,art      ,,!     
,,art ,,( ,,pa9t+ ,,9 ,,pa/el4 ,by ,j4  
,,littlejohns1 ,r4,b4,a41 & ,l4         
,,ri*mond1 ,r4,a4 ,) a frontispiece &   
=eword by ,,frank ,,brangwyn1     ,r4,a4
 ,) #dj beautiful full-page col\r$      
plates & #ae o!r     illu/rations4 ,9   

demy #dto1 clo? gilt4 #aes4 net4        
,extract f ,! ,connoisseur3  ,!         
beautiful volume may quick5 public      
int]e/ 9 ! me?od4 ,! #dj plates 9 col\r 
af=d a f9e s]ies ( examples ( ! res\rces
 ( ! m$ium & ! be/ me?ods ( exploit+ !m4
       ,,draw+ ,,& ,,design4 ,a ,s*ool  
,c\rse 9 ,composition4 ,by ,,samuel     
,,clegg1     ,headma/] ( ! ,c\nty       
,second>y ,s*ool1 ,long ,eaton1         
,d]by%ire1     ) a =eword by ,,william  
,,ro!n/e91 ,pr(essor ( ,civic ,art1     
,%effield ,univ]sity4 #aj 94 by #g-a_/b 
94 #abs4 #f;d4 net4  ,a feature ( ! book
 is ! inclusion ( plates pr9t$ by s*ol>s
 f wood-blocks ( _! own mak+ & design+4 
,x also conta9s good sections on lett]+ 
& p5 & ink draw+1 z well z on p5cil "w1 
col\r "w1 etc4   ,,sir ,,isaac ,,pitman 
,,sons1 ,,limit$     ,,f ,,! ,,arti/ic  
,,crafts ,,s]ies      ,,h&-,,loom       
,,weav+4 ,by ,,lu!r ,,hoop]4 #abe       
,draw+s by ! ,au?or &     ,,noel        
,,rooke4 ,col\r$ & collotype            
reproduction4 ,small ,cr[n #hvo1        

#cfh pp4 #hs4 #f;d4 net4  ,extract f ,! 
,morn+ ,po/3  444 ,e phase & process 9  
weav+ is describ$ ) s cle> & c>eful an  
exactitude1 t1 help$ z ! text is by !   
,au?or's sket*es & diagrams1 ! read]    
%\ld h no difficulty 9 conqu]+ ) its aid
 ! rudim5ts ( ! craft4       ,,embroid]y
  ,,tape/ry ,,weav+4 ,by ,mrs4 ,a4 ,h4  
,,*ri/ie4 ,f\r?     ,edition4 #agh      
diagrams & illu/rations by ! ,au?or1 #af
 pp4 (     collotype reproductions4     
,small ,cr[n #hvo1 #cbj pp4 #ajs4 #f;d4 
net4  ,extract f ,! ,pall ,mall         
,gazette3  ,mrs4 ,*ri/ie has p]=m$ h]   
task to admiration1 444 & h] lucid      
explanations ( v>i\s k9ds ( /it*es 444  
%\ld be ( value to all work]s at        
embroid]y or tape/ry weav+ & to novices 
anxi\s to le>n4   ,,sir ,,isaac ,,pitman
  ,,sons1 ,,limit$     ,,f ,,! ,,arti/ic
 ,,crafts ,,s]ies  ,,manuscript ,,writ+ 
,,lett]+4 ,by ,,an ,,educational        
,,exp]t4 ,%[+ ! hi/orical developm5t &  
practical application to mod]n h&writ+ (
 sev]al manuscript /yles d]iv$ f anci5t 

,roman lett]s4 ,fully illu/rat$4        
,foolscap #dto4 #fs4 net4      ,extract 
f ,! ,times3      ,?is book supplies &  
supplies g5]\sly a ne$ :i* has become   
urg5t4444 ,= purposes purely practical1 
no tea*] ( pla9     h&writ+ ne$ "k m ?an
 ?is book tells him2 nor %\ld be        
cont5t to "k less4   ,,h]aldry ,,=      
,,craftsm5 ,,& ,,design]s4 ,by ,w4 ,h4  
,,/4 ,,john ,,hope1 ,litt4,d41 ,d4,c4,l4
 ,small ,cr[n #hvo1 #dif pp41 #cjj      
diagrams & designs1 #bd collotype       
reproductions1 & #h col\r$ plates1 #ajs4
 #f;d4 net4      ,extract f ,! ,a!naeum3
      ,a s]ies :i* includes ?ree su*    
books z ,mr4 ,d\glas ,cock]ell's        
',bookb9d+1' ,mr4 ,edw>d ,john/on's     
',writ+1' & ?is ranks     almo/ z a     
national possession4444 ,no arti/ c see 
?is book     )\t want+ to buy x1 if x 7 
only = ! beauty ( !     objects select$ 
= illu/ration4  ,,sir ,,isaac ,,pitman  
,,sons1 ,,limit$     ,,f ,,! ,,arti/ic  
,,crafts ,,s]ies   ,,writ+ ,,&          
,,illum9at+  ,,lett]+4 ,by ,,edw>d      

,,john/on4 ,t5? ,edition4 #bbg          
illu/rations & diagrams by ! ,au?or &   
,,noel ,,rooke1 #h pp4 ( examples 9 r$ &
 black1 #bd pp4 ( collotype             
reproductions1 #eab pp4 ,small ,cr[n    
#hvo4 #hs4 #f;d4 net4      ,extract f ,!
 ,a!naeum3      444 ,?is book belongs to
 t extremely r>e class 9 :i* e     l9e  
be>s ! impress ( complete ma/]y ( !     
subject4 ,we     congratulate ,mr4      
,john/on on hav+ produc$ a "w at once   
orig9al     & complete4   ,,bookb9d+ ,,&
 ,,! ,,c>e ,,( ,,books4 ,by ,,d\glas    
,,cock]ell4 ,f\r? ,edition4 #abb draw+s 
by ,,noel ,,rooke1 #h pages collotype   
reproductions4 ,small ,cr[n #hvo1 #ceb  
pp4 #gs4 #f;d4 net4      ,extract f ,!  
,times3      444 ,a capital pro( ( !    
reason$ ?or\ghness 9 workman%ip1     :i*
 is ! fir/ article 9 ! cre$ ( ^? :o 444 
are     attempt+ to c>ry into practice !
 indu/rial tea*+ ( ,rusk9     & ,william
 ,morris4  ,,sir ,,isaac ,,pitman       
,,sons1 ,,limit$            99       99 
99       99       99     ,transcrib]'s  

note3  ,! foll[+ pr9t]'s errors 7       
correct$ 9 ! text3     ,,plate ,,xi     
#abb      ,sixte5 ,lea!r ,boots & ,%oes1
 betwe5 #aece & #ahej4        ,orig9al  
_h #afcj in/ead ( #aece     ,,plate     
,,xxi                                   
#bjb      ,tw5ty-?ree ,boots & ,%oes1 f 
#ahjj to #ahge4        ,orig9al _h      
,tw5ty-two    ,c4 ,braid$ ,suit1        
#afgj-ij4     ,orig9al _h #afie-ij      
,c4 ,dress ( ,spott$1 #agie-ahjh4       
,orig9al _h ,/ock+ette    ,a4 ,morn+    
,coat ( ,*9tz1 #ahbe-de4     ,orig9al _h
 ,*9tze    ,! bodice1 ,fig ,a1 ,plate ,x
 7see p4 #aai71     ,orig9al _h see p4  
#bib    ,sleeve     ,orig9al _h ,sleev  
,,patt]n #ec4     ,orig9al _h ,,patte5  
,patt]n #ee1 page #cci3--     ,dress1   
,fig4 ,c1 ,plate ,,xxv4       ,orig9al  
_h ,g    ,patt]n #eh1 page #cdb3--      
,dress1 ,fig4 ,c1 ,plate ,,xxix4        
,orig9al _h ,g  ,! foll[+ inconsi/5cies 
are reta9$ z pr9t$3    ,plate ,,vii1 c4 
,black ,silk ,j]k94     ,illu/ration    
caption has #afdj-fj1     li/ (         

illu/rations has #afdj-ej4    ,plate    
,,ix1 a4 ,lady's ,embroid]$ ,silk       
,jacket4     ,illu/ration caption has   
#afje-cj1     li/ ( illu/rations has    
#afje-bj4    ,plate ,,xv1 c4 ,embroid]$ 
,velvet ,coat4     ,illu/ration caption 
has #agee-ge1     li/ ( illu/rations has
 #agec-ge4    ,plate ,,xx1 b4 ,n9e      
,aprons4     ,illu/ration caption has   
#ahej1     li/ ( illu/rations has #agej4
    ,! sc>ves worn r\nd ! body   ( !    
#ag? c5tury cavali]s 7 f #b feet #c     
in*es wide to #c feet #f   in*es1 & f #h
 feet #f in*es to #g feet 9 l5g?4       
,second range is inconsi/5t z pr9t$4    
,plate ,,xxxiii1 c4 ,silk ,coat &       
,skirt4     ,illu/ration caption has    
#ahee-fe1     li/ ( illu/rations has    
#ahee-ef4