,transcriber's ,note3 ,bold face type is surrounded by equal signs and italic type by underscores4 ,,handicraft ,,for ,,girls ,a ,,tentative ,,course ,,in ,,needlework1 ,,basketry1 ,,designing1 ,,paper ,,and ,,card-,,board ,,construction1 ,,textile ,,fibers ,,and ,,fabrics ,,and ,,home ,,decoration ,,and ,,care ,,designed ,,for ,,use ,,in ,,schools ,,and ,,homes ,prepared by ,,idabelle ,,mcglauflin ,supervisor of the ,girls' ,handwork in the ,denver ,public ,schools ,illustration ,published by ,,the ,,manual ,,arts ,,press ,,peoria1 ,,illinois ,,copyright ,,idabelle ,,mcglauflin #aiaj ,,explanatory ,,note4 ,the exercises in this five-year course are based upon an estimated time of one hour per week in the first two years1 and one and one-half hours in the last three1 the school year consisting of thirty-eight weeks4 ,all materials1 with the exception of that used for the full-sized garments and some of the ,christmas gifts1 are supposed to be furnished by the ,board of ,education4 ,in many instances the pupils are allowed the privilege of supplying themselves with a better grade of material if they wish4 ,in every case a substitute is given for the full-sized garment if the home cannot furnish the material4 ,all supplies can be purchased by the class collectively or individually1 if the ,board of ,education so desires4 ,every exercise in handicraft should embody an educational principle1 making sure the training of the judgment1 the eye1 or the memory1 and tending to develop skill1 patience1 accuracy1 perseverance1 dexterity or artistic appreciation4 ,,contents4 ,,chapter ,i4--,,suggestions ,,to ,,teachers #g ,general ,directions for ,pupils of ,sewing ,classes4 ,drills for ,beginners4 ,,chapter ,,ii--,,course ,,of ,,instruction #aa ,first ,year--,third ,grade4 ,detailed ,description of ,exercises4 ,,chapter ,,iii4--,,course ,,of ,,instruction #ai ,second ,year--,fourth ,grade4 ,detailed ,description of ,exercises4 ,,chapter ,,iv4--,,course ,,of ,,instruction #bh ,third ,year--,fifth ,grade4 ,detailed ,description of ,exercises4 ,,chapter ,v4--,,course ,,of ,,instruction #ci ,fourth ,year--,sixth ,grade4 ,detailed ,description of ,exercises4 ,,chapter ,,vi4--,,course ,,of ,,instruction #ej ,fifth ,year--,seventh ,grade4 ,detailed ,description of ,exercises4 ,,chapter ,,vii4--,,description ,,of ,,stitches #fb ,stitches ,used in ,plain ,sewing4 ,ornamental ,stitches4 ,miscellaneous4 ,,chapter ,,viii4--,,textile ,,fibers ,,and ,,fabrics #ij ,silk4 ,cotton4 ,flax4 ,wool4 ,,chapter ,,ix4--,,dress ,,and ,,its ,,relation ,,to ,,art #ih ,,chapter ,x4--,,paper1 ,,cloth ,,and ,,cardboard ,,construction #aja ,,chapter ,,xi4--,,home ,,furnishing1 ,,decoration ,,and ,,care #aab ,,chapter ,,xii4--,,basketry #aad ,general ,directions for making the ,coil ,basket4 ,the ,sewed ,baskets4 ,,chapter ,i4 ,,suggestions ,,to ,,teachers4 ,the teacher's preparation for the lesson consists in doing each exercise before presenting the lesson to the class4 ,it will take some of your time to do so1 but it will save hours of time and much worry in the end1 and you will thus discover how best to present the difficult points of the lesson4 ,a well finished piece gives to the child a complete mental picture of what she is undertaking1 and acts as an inspiration2 she will work quicker1 easier1 and better because of it4 ,this impulse and a clear demonstration of the method of doing1 will enable her to work far more independently of the teacher than would otherwise be possible1 and will give more satisfactory results4 ,what are designated as electives in this book are designed to meet the needs of classes or individuals doing the work a second time or of teachers who find the regular work too difficult4 ,large classes can be handled with less wasted energy by dividing the class into groups that are doing the same work4 ,this saves endless repetition and enables the teacher to give better general supervision4 ,this is the most vulnerable point in class work4 ,a teacher may work laboriously and still waste her own and the children's time by too close an adherence to the individual method of instruction4 ,those children whose turn comes toward the end of the line will have lost much of the value of the lesson4 ,children require constant supervision4 ,it is not teaching to examine the work when finished and order it ripped out4 ,the fault is then with the teacher and not with the child4 ,each successive step should be inspected and corrected before the next one is taken4 ,i would go still farther and have every pupil1 even in the advanced grades1 submit a sample of her work on every stitch to be used in each exercise4 ,children are always eager to begin a new piece1 and if required to practice until the result is satisfactory will very soon do good work4 ,you then have this to refer to and can hold them to their best4 ,there is absolutely no value in poor1 careless1 puttering work4 ,unless the child has a high ideal and strives to reach it1 the time of the lesson is wasted4 ,encourage self-criticism4 ,work should be done to one's own satisfaction whether it is to be seen by others or not4 ,do not allow pupils to take their work home unless it is some required practice work4 ,it is not the object to cover a certain amount of ground1 but to inculcate high standards of excellence and some technical skill4 ,they cannot accomplish this by themselves4 ,i would prefer that classes do not complete the entire course rather than have good work sacrificed to quantity4 ,there is a difference between careful1 painstaking effort1 and the puttering away of valuable time4 ,avoid delay in distributing supplies4 ,be sure that every member of the class understands clearly the object of the lesson4 ,do not encourage waste by a too liberal supply of material4 ,too much stress cannot be laid upon the careful preparation of the cloth to be used4 ,trim all edges neatly before hemming1 facing1 gathering1 etc4 ,do not allow children to sew without basting4 ,the time required for careful basting is well spent4 ,it is not expected that the various pupils of the class will advance with the same degree of proficiency4 ,some will require a much longer time on an exercise than others4 ,as it is greatly to the advantage of the class in the end1 and saves time and tiresome repetition to give each new exercise or stitch as a class lesson1 the average pupils should regulate the time for taking up new work4 ,a teacher of resources will find ways and means of bringing up the work of slow pupils1 and profitable 'busy work' for those who work more rapidly4 ,for the former1 a little extra time each day--not as a punishment1 but as an opportunity to catch up--would be all that is necessary4 ,for the latter1 there is a great variety of interesting1 useful work4 ,it is a pedagogic truism that every teacher1 consciously or unconsciously1 imparts to her class her own inclinations4 ,an enthusiastic class indicates an ardent interest on the part of the teacher1 and a distaste for work and a lack of zeal on the part of the pupils are equally indicative of the teacher's attitude4 ,bear in mind that an unprepared teacher or a poorly presented lesson can make almost any exercise difficult and distasteful to the class4 ,do not blame pupils for poor work for which you are yourself responsible4 ,,suggestions ,,for ,,teachers ,,general ,,directions ,,for ,,pupils ,,of ,,sewing ,,classes4 #a4 ,be sure that the hands are clean4 #b4 ,always sit erect--well back in the seat--with the light coming over the left shoulder1 both feet upon the floor1 because the body will not become as tired1 the hand will not shade the work and it is easier to see the stitches4 ,do not fasten the work to the knee1 because a stooping position easily becomes a habit4 #c4 ,place the thimble upon the second finger of the right hand4 ,either the side or end of the thimble can be used4 ,never sew without one4 #d4 ,measure the thread either from shoulder to shoulder or from the end of the finger to the elbow4 ,a long thread becomes soiled and worn before being used up and is more liable to knot4 #e4 ,wind the thread once around the forefinger and break from the spool1 because the broken thread twists more easily to a point than when cut4 ,cut the thread from the work when finished to avoid drawing the stitches or breaking at the wrong place4 #f4 ,thread the needle from the end that hangs from the spool4 ,in this way you are working with the twist of the thread and there is less danger of knotting and kinking4 #g4 ,do not wet the thread in the mouth4 ,roll the end of the thread between the thumb and forefinger and place through the eye of the needle4 #h4 ,to tie a knot wind the thread around the forefinger once and a little over1 and twist by rubbing the finger down the side of the thumb4 ,with the nail of the second finger bring the knot thus formed to the end of the thread4 #i4 ,hold the unfinished work in the left hand4 #aj4 ,do not bite the threads4 #aa4 ,trim the selvedge1 as it is hard to sew through and draws up when washed4 #ab4 ,the knot is always buried except in the basting which is to be removed4 ,,drills ,,for ,,beginners4 ,,drill #a4 ,threading the needle with cotton4 ,needle ,no4 #h2 colored thread4 a4 ,prepare the cotton by twisting between thumb and forefinger4 b4 ,place the thread in the eye of the needle4 c4 ,draw the thread through with the right hand4 ,,drill #b4 ,making the knot4 a4 ,hold the needle in the right hand and the end of the thread in the left4 b4 ,wind the thread around the forefinger once and a little over1 and twist the threads together by rubbing the finger down the side of the thumb4 ,do not accept careless knots4 ,,drill #c4 ,use of the thimble4 a4 ,push the needle with the thimble4 b4 ,push the needle back with the finger of the left hand4 ,never allow a pupil to sew without a thimble4 ,,drill #d4 ,threading the yarn needle4 a4 ,prepare the yarn by loosening the end with the needle4 b4 ,place the yarn over the point of the needle and draw into a smooth loop4 c4 ,draw the needle out and thread into the loop4 ,needles ,no4 #aj will carry thread ,no4 #ajj #ij #hj ,needles ,no4 #i will carry thread ,no4 #ij #hj #gj #fj ,needles ,no4 #h will carry thread ,no4 #gj #fj #ej #dj ,needles ,no4 #g will carry thread ,no4 #ej #dj #cj #bj ,needles ,no4 #f will carry thread ,no4 #bj #aj ,needles ,no4 #e will carry ,linen thread--,luster cotton ,,chapter ,,ii4 ,,course ,,of ,,instruction4 ,,first ,,year--,,third ,,grade4 ,,equipment4 ,sewing box4 ,pin cushion--#bj pins4 ,thimble4 ,needles4 ,scissors4 ,thread cards4 ,practice ,piece--,unbleached muslin1 #i x #f4 ,,order ,,of ,,exercises4 ,prepare ,thread ,cards--,cardboard #d x #d1 designed and cut for four kinds of thread4 ,exercise ,no4 #a--;,basting ,design4 ,exercise ,no4 #b--,running ,design ,no4 #a4 ,exercise ,no4 #c--,overhanding on ,practice ,piece4 ,exercise ,no4 #d--,pot ,holder--,weaving--,christmas ,piece4#d ,exercise ,no4 #e--,running ,design--,no4 #b4 ,exercise ,no4 #f--,overhanding--,running ,designs #a and #b together4 ,exercise ,no4 #g--,running ,design ,no4 #c4a ,exercise ,no4 #h--;,hemming a ,towel4#c ,exercise ,no4 #i--,running ,design ,no4 #da ,exercise ,no4 #aj--,overhanding--,running ,designs #c and #d together4 ,overhanding ,nos4 #a and #b to #c and #d4ab ,,footnotes3 #a ,see ,electives1 page #ah4 #b ,see ,electives1 page #ah4 #c ,see ,electives1 page #ah4 #d ,see ,electives1 page #ah4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #a-d4 ,,children ,,in ,,native ,,costume4 ,,suggestive ,,designs ,,in ,,outline ,,for ,,the ,,running ,,stitch4 ,,detailed ,,description ,,of ,,exercises4 ,teach3 ,one inch1 one-half inch1 one-fourth inch4 ,practice3 ,drills for ,beginners1 page #aj4 ,,exercise ,,no4 #a--;,,basting4 ,materials3 ,unbleached muslin #e x #h stamped with the three basting stitches1 ,no4 #a1 page #fd2 colored thread ,no4 #ej2 needle ,no4 #g4 ,make pupils perfectly familiar with the name and use of this stitch4 ,see ,description of ,stitches ,used in ,plain ,sewing1 page #fc4 ,beginning at the right hand follow the lines of the design with the thread1 placing the knots over the dots on the right hand side and fastening over the dots at the left4 ,under each stamped row of stitches put in one1 two1 three or more rows1 depending upon the rapidity with which each individual works4 ,this will help to keep the class uniform4 ,,exercise ,,no4 #b--,,running4 ,materials3 ,stamped running design ,no4 #a1 page #ab4 ,unbleached muslin #f x #h2 colored thread ,no4 #ej2 needle ,no4 #g4 ,make pupils perfectly familiar with the name and use of this stitch4 ,see ,description of ,stitches ,used in ,plain ,sewing1 page #fc4 ,the object of this model is to give the pupils practice in the running stitch4 ,these designs are more interesting than practicing on plain cloth1 so if the work is not satisfactory1 cut the knot1 pull out the thread1 and try again4 ,give special attention to the knots and the fastening of the threads and the general neatness of the work4 ,place the knot on the wrong side and follow the lines of the design with the running stitch4 ,,exercise ,,no4 #c--,,overhanding4 ,materials3 ,practice piece2 colored thread ,no4 #ej2 needle ,no4 #g4 ,teach the ,overhanding ,stitch on the ,practice ,piece4 ,see ,description of ,stitches ,used in ,plain ,sewing1 page #fc4 ,change the color of the thread once or twice and teach the joining of the thread4 ,baste two folded edges together and insist upon neat1 careful work4 ,,exercise ,,no4 #d--,,pot ,,holder--,,weaving--,,christmas ,,piece4#h ,materials3 ,weaving frame2 netting needles2 candle wicking in two colors2 brass rings4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,woven ,,pot ,,holder ,,made ,,of ,,candle ,,wicking4 ,teach the principles of cloth weaving and the terms warp1 woof and selvedge4 ,the weaving frames are made from one-inch board1 #h x #h4 ,three-fourths of an inch from and parallel to the top and bottom drive a row of nails1 having very small heads1 one-half inch apart1 leaving an inch margin at both sides4 ,tie a slip knot in the end of the wicking and slip it over one of the corner nails4 ,pass the wicking back and forth around the nails first on one side and then the other4 ,this forms the warp4 ,draw the threads fairly tight and tie around the last nail4 ,thread the other color of wicking into the netting needles1 weave across the warp threads alternately taking up and passing over them4 ,in alternate rows take up the threads passed over in the preceding row4 ,do not draw the woof threads tight enough to draw the holder in at the sides4 ,slip from the frame and fasten the loose ends by weaving them back into the holder4 ,work a brass ring with the blanket stitch1 using a strand of the wicking and sew it to one of the corners4 ,,exercise ,,no4 #e--,,running4 ,materials3 ,running design ,no4 #b1 page #ab1 #f x #h2 colored thread ,no4 #ej2 needle ,no4 #g4 ,follow the lines of the design with the running stitch4 ,,exercise ,,no4 #f--,,overhanding4 ,materials3 ,white thread ,no4 #ej2 needle ,no4 #g4 ,running designs #a and #b are to be overhanded together4 ,turn a quarter-inch fold on the long side of both pieces4 ,baste the folded edges together and overhand4 ,,exercise ,,no4 #g--,,running4#e ,materials3 ,running design ,no4 #c1 page #ab1 #f x #h2 colored thread ,no4 #ej2 needle ,no4 #g4 ,follow the lines of the design with the running stitch4 ,,exercise ,,no4 #h--;,,hemming--,,paper ,,folding ,,for ,a ,,hem4#g ,materials3 ,paper #d-a_/b x #g4 ,fold the long way of the paper4 ,first fold of the hem1 one-fourth of an inch4 ,turn half an inch hem on one side and an inch hem on the other4 ,have each child cut from a card a gauge for measuring the hems and insist that the hems be turned evenly4 ,teach the hemming stitch on the ,practice ,piece with colored thread4 ,trim the edge neatly1 fold the hem accurately and baste in place4 ,bad habits1 that are hard to correct later1 can so easily be formed in making this stitch that ,i wish to caution teachers in regard to the position of the needle in relation to the hem1 the amount of cloth taken on the needle and the tendency toward making the blind stitch or the damask hem instead of the plain hemming stitch4 ,,hemming ,a ,,towel4 ,materials3 ,crash1 #i woof1 #f warp2 white thread ,no4 #ej2 needle ,no4 #g2 tape #d-a_/b inches4 ,turn one-fourth inch fold on each side and across the bottom and baste4 ,turn the second fold one-fourth of an inch on the sides and baste4 ,hem the sides4 ,turn an inch hem at the bottom1 baste and hem1 giving special attention to the corners where the bottom hem is turned over the side hems4 ,hem the top with a quarter-inch hem if there is no selvedge4 ,sew a loop in the middle of the top on the selvedge edge as follows3 ,turn in one-fourth of an inch at both ends of the tape4 ,place the ends of the tape side by side and down one-fourth of an inch from the edge of the towel4 ,hem around the ends of the tape and back-stitch across the tape just at the edge of the towel4 ,,exercise ,,no4 #i--,,running4#e ,materials3 ,running design ,no4 #d1 page #ab1 #f x #h2 colored thread ,no4 #ej2 needle ,no4 #g4 ,follow the lines of the design with the running stitch4 ,,exercise ,,no4 #aj--,,overhanding4#ef ,materials3 ,white thread ,no4 #ej2 needle ,no4 #g4 ,running designs #c and #d are to be overhanded together4 ,turn a quarter-inch fold on the long sides of both pieces4 ,baste the folded edges together and overhand4 ,running designs #a and #b are to be overhanded to #c and #d4 ,turn a quarter-inch fold at the top of one piece and the bottom of the other1 baste the folded edges together and overhand4 ,illustration3 ,,doll',s ,,quilt--,,elective4 ,,electives4 #e ,running designs ,no4 #c and #d may be omitted1 7this will also cut out ,exercise ,no4 #aj7 and selections from the following substituted to fill in the time1 pupils furnishing their own materials and teachers planning their own designs3 ,pen wipers4 ,pin disks4 ,needle books4 ,small pin cushions for the sewing box4 ,a wiper for eye-glasses4 #f ,the four running designs in ,exercise ,no4 #aj may be made into a doll's quilt by basting to a lining1 turning in and overhanding the edges together and tacking4 ,pupils will furnish their own materials for the lining4 #g ,instead of the small towel encourage children to ask their mothers for a dish towel which they can bring from home to hem4 ,some house-keeper of the neighborhood might be glad to have her dish-towels hemmed for her by the class4 #h ,instead of the pot holder a child's picture-book may be substituted4 ,see ,paper1 ,cloth and ,cardboard ,construction1 page #aja4 ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,,course ,,of ,,instruction4 ,,second ,,year--,,fourth ,,grade4 ,,equipment4 ,sewing box4 ,pin cushion--#bj pins4 ,thimble4 ,needles4 ,scissors4 ,thread cards4 ,practice ,piece--,unbleached muslin #i x #ab4 ,,order ,,of ,,exercises4 ,prepare ,thread ,cards--,cardboard #d x #d1 designed and cut for four kinds of thread4 ,exercise ,no4 #aa--,seam ,sampler--,seam ,a--,combination ,stitch4 ,exercise ,no4 #ab--;,emery ,balls4#i ,exercise ,no4 #ac--,seam ,sampler--,seam ,b--,stitching4 ,exercise ,no4 #ad--;,bags--,christmas ,piece4#aj ,exercise ,no4 #ae--,seam ,sampler--,seam ,c--,half-,back ,stitching4 ,exercise ,no4 #af--;,doily--,blanket ,stitch--,outline ,stitch4#aa ,exercise ,no4 #ag--,seam ,sampler--,seam ,d--,french ,seam4 ,exercise ,no4 #ah--;,a ,pair of ,dolls' ,pillow ,cases4#ab ,exercise ,no4 #ai--,seam ,sampler--,seam ,e--,french ,fell4 ,exercise ,no4 #bj--,textile ,fibers and ,fabrics--,silk4 ,,footnotes3 #i ,see ,electives1 page #bg4 #aj ,see ,electives1 page #bg4 #aa ,see ,electives1 page #bg4 #ab ,see ,electives1 page #bg4 ,,detailed ,,description ,,of ,,exercises4 ,review3 ,one inch1 one-half inch1 one-fourth inch4 ,teach3 ,one-eighth inch1 three-eighths inch1 seven-eighths inch4 ,,seam ,,sampler4 ,materials3 ,plain percale #aj warp1 #ab woof2 white thread ,no4 #ej2 needle ,no4 #g4 ,five exercises of the ,second ,year ,sewing will consist of seam work on the ,seam ,sampler4 ,each stitch will be first taught on the ,practice ,piece4 ,make pupils perfectly familiar with the names and uses of the different stitches as they are taught4 ,as the year's work progresses compare the different seams and teach when1 where and why these various seams are used in garment making4 ,see ,description of ,seams1 page #he4 ,that the pupils may not lose interest in their sewing the seam work is alternated with miscellaneous exercises4 ,fold the percale with the warp into three equal pieces4 ,cut off one piece4 ,have each pupil label her large piece with her name4 ,collect and put them away until ready for ,seam ,b4 ,do not leave them in the boxes or they will be lost1 or soiled with too much handling4 ,,exercise ,,no4 #aa--,,seam ,a--,,combination ,,stitch4 ,see description of ,seam ,sampler given above4 ,materials3 ,first section of ,seam ,sampler4 ,fold with the warp through the center1 and cut on the fold4 ,baste these two edges together one-fourth of an inch from the edge4 ,sew with the ,combination ,stitch three-eighths of an inch from the edge4 ,,exercise ,,no4 #ab--;,,emery ,,balls4#ac ,materials3 ,unbleached muslin1 #f-a_/b x #f-a_/b2 red cashmere #f-a_/b x #f-a_/b 7this amount provides for four72 thread1 yellow1 white and red2 emery powder2 needles ,no4 #g and ,no4 #c2 green luster cotton4 ,to cut the pattern of the strawberry emery ball3 ,draw a circle three inches in radius1 and cut on the line4 ,cut a circle from the unbleached muslin for the lining and one a quarter of an inch larger from the cashmere for the outside2 cut both into quarters4 ,to make the case3 ,fold the two edges of the muslin together and sew in a seam with the combination stitch1 rounding the point to give the strawberry shape4 ,turn in a good seam at the top and gather4 ,fill with the powdered emery and fasten the gathering thread by overhanding over the top4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,completed ,,seam ,,sampler ,,illustrating ,,exercises ,,nos4 #aa1 #ac1 #ae1 #ag1 ,,and #ai4 ,before sewing up the outside put in the stitches1 with yellow thread1 to represent the seeds of the strawberry as follows3 ,hold the wrong side of the cloth toward you and put in a row of tiny stitches half an inch apart4 ,one-fourth of an inch above these put in another row with the stitches midway between those of the last row1 and so continue4 ,if desired these may be omitted and the seeds represented by ,french knots when the strawberry is finished4 ,seam up the outside1 slip it over the case1 arranging the seams on opposite sides to avoid the possibility of powder sifting through4 ,overhand the top and cover with the green luster cotton to represent the calyx1 leaving a loop for the stem4 ,,exercise ,,no4 #ac--,,seam ,b--,,stitching4 ,materials3 ,second section of ,seam ,sampler4 ,fold with the warp through the center and cut on the fold4 ,baste these two edges together one-fourth of an inch from the edge4 ,stitch three-eighths of an inch from the edge4 ,,exercise ,,no4 #ad--;,,bags--,,christmas ,,piece4#ad ,the ,christmas ,piece will consist of bags of any size1 shape or style for which the pupils wish to furnish their own materials4 ,this gives the teacher an opportunity to exercise her own ingenuity and taste and to have some individuality in her work4 ,there is a great variety1 from the utility bag made of cheap1 pretty material1 costing only a few pennies1 to the more elaborate ones made of dainty silk or ribbon4 ,a little tact will easily adapt the style of bag to the home into which it is to go1 for the purpose for which it is to be used1 and the purse of the donor4 ,following are the directions for a simple button-bag3 ,materials3 ,a soft washable fabric1 #ad warp1 #f woof2 thread2 needles2 narrow tape #bf inches4 ,illustration3 ,,bags ,,to ,,illustrate ,,exercise ,,no4 #ad4 ,crease an inch hem at each end4 ,fold the cloth with the two hems right sides together and baste from the lower edge of the hems to the bottom of the bag4 ,stitch a quarter-inch seam4 ,turn in the ends of the hems even with the sides of the bag and overhand from the top five-eighths of an inch1 leaving an opening for the tapes three-eighths of an inch wide at the bottom of the hem4 ,baste and hem the hems1 fastening securely at each side of the tape openings1 as there is considerable strain when the tapes are drawn4 ,put in a row of running stitches parallel to and five-eighths of an inch from the top of the bag1 for the tape opening4 ,with a tape needle draw in the two tapes1 sew the ends of each together and draw out of opposite openings so that the place of joining will not show4 ,overcast the seams4 ,,exercise ,,no4 #ae--;,,half-,,back ,,stitching4 ,materials3 ,first and second sections of the ,seam ,sampler4 ,baste the two sections together one-fourth of an inch from the edge4 ,sew with the half-back stitch three-eighths of an inch from the edge4 ,,exercise ,,no4 #af--;,a ,,doily--,,blanket ,,stitch ,,and ,,the ,,kensington ,,outline ,,stitch4#ae ,materials3 ,imitation ,butchers' ,linen #i x #i2 white luster cotton2 needle ,no4 #e4 ,an exercise in paper cutting for the doily design4 ,have pupils provide themselves with ten or twelve pieces of paper eight inches square for practice cutting4 ,fold the first paper three times and cut a convex1 concave or compound curve from corner to corner4 ,open and study these curved lines and select the most graceful4 ,cut again making corrections4 ,cut a design in straight lines4 ,cut one composed of both straight and curved lines4 ,do not work haphazard1 but criticise1 compare and reject4 ,the surface requires little decoration if the doily is pleasing in outline4 ,that which is placed upon it should have some relation to the outline4 ,study the space to be decorated and how it can be divided or ornamented by lines1 curved or straight1 that may serve as a real decoration1 but avoid too elaborate designs4 ,before beginning the doily have a finished pattern4 ,the pattern may be transferred to the cloth by tracing the pattern with a hard pencil1 using carbon paper between pattern and cloth1 or the pattern may be pinned on and the outline drawn and the design put on freehand4 ,illustration3 ,,original ,,designs ,,for ,,the ,,doily ,,by ,,fourth ,,grade ,,girls4 ,to work the ,doily4 ,finish the edge with the blanket stitch4 ,see ,blanket ,stitch1 page #gc4 ,work the lines of the design with the ,kensington ,outline ,stitch4 ,,exercise ,,no4 #ag--;,,french ,,seam4 ,materials3 ,third section of the ,seam ,sampler4 ,fold with the warp through the center and cut on the fold4 ,follow the directions for the ,french ,seam4 ,,exercise ,,no4 #ah--;,a ,,pair ,,of ,,miniature ,,pillow ,,cases4#af ,materials3 ,two pieces bleached muslin #g-a_/b warp1 #h-a_/b woof2 white thread ,no4 #ej2 needle ,no4 #g4 ,in a pillow case the warp threads should run lengthwise of the pillow4 ,crease a quarter-inch fold across one end and on both sides4 ,fold with the warp through the center so that the seam just turned comes on the inside1 baste the folded edges together on the right side4 ,overhand on the right side1 using no knot1 but sewing over the end of the thread4 ,turn a three-quarter inch hem1 baste and hem4 ,trim the seam and overcast4 ,,exercise ,,no4 #ai--;,,french ,,fell4 ,materials3 ,seam ,sampler4 ,sew ,section ,three of the ,seam ,sampler to the others with the ,french ,fell4 ,follow directions for the ,french ,fell4 ,,exercise ,,no4 #bj--,,textile ,,fibers ,,and ,,fabrics--,,silk4 ,under the heading ,textile ,fibers and ,fabrics1 page #ij1 will be found subject matter which can be used in correlation with the geography1 language and history work4 ,the fourth grade subject is silk4 ,secure if possible the silk cocoon and make a collection of silk fabrics4 ,language papers on the subject can be illustrated with pictures cut from papers and magazines4 ,,electives4 #ac ,a choice may be had between the strawberry and the tomato emery ball4 ,,tomato ,,emery ,,ball--,materials3 ,unbleached muslin #f x #c2 red cashmere #f x #c2 emery powder2 red thread ,no4 #ej2 green luster cotton4 ,to cut the pattern3 ,draw a circle one and one-fourth inches in radius and cut on the line4 ,cut the two pieces for the lining and the two for the outside of the same size4 ,place the right sides of the two pieces of cashmere together between the two pieces of lining4 ,baste all together4 ,sew with the back stitch one-fourth of an inch from the edge1 leaving an opening for turning and filling4 ,turn in a seam at the opening1 fill with powder and close by overhanding the edges together4 ,flatten as much as possible and make the creases seen in the tomato by tightly drawing the thread of luster cotton from the center around the outside and back to the center1 repeating several times4 ,make a little tuft of the luster cotton in the middle at the top4 #ad ,the order of the doily and the bag may be reversed1 using the doily for the ,christmas piece instead of the bag1 or the paper box may be substituted4 ,see ,cloth and ,cardboard ,construction1 page #ajb4 #ae ,simple toilet articles in white1 such as a handkerchief case1 may be substituted for the doily1 teachers planning their own designs4 #af ,one pillow-case may be omitted and a pillow for the other case made instead4 ,this may be stuffed with crumpled bits of paper4 ,use unbleached muslin for the pillow4 ,,chapter ,,iv4 ,,course ,,of ,,instruction4 ,,third ,,year--,,fifth ,,grade4 ,,equipment4 ,sewing box4 ,pin cushion--#cj pins4 ,thimble4 ,needles4 ,scissors4 ,thread cards4 ,practice ,piece--,unbleached muslin #i x #ab4 ,,order ,,of ,,exercises4 ,prepare ,thread ,cards--,cardboard #d x #d designed and cut for four kinds of thread4 ,exercise ,no4 #ba--,patching ,sampler--,hemmed ,patch4 ,exercise ,no4 #bb--,mitered ,corner4 ,exercise ,no4 #bc--,patching ,sampler--,overhand ,patch4 ,exercise ,no4 #bd--;,basketry--,christmas ,piece4#agah ,exercise ,no4 #be--,napkin--,damask ,hem4#ai ,exercise ,no4 #bf--;,flannel ,patch4 ,exercise ,no4 #bg--;,a ,pair of ,sleeve ,protectors4 ,exercise ,no4 #bh--;,a ,garment ,brought from ,home to be ,repaired4 ,exercise ,no4 #bi--;,a ,pin ,cushion4#bj ,exercise ,no4 #cj--,textile ,fibers and ,fabrics--,cotton4 ,,footnotes3 #ag ,see ,electives1 page #cf4 #ah ,see ,electives1 page #cf4 #ai ,see ,electives1 page #cf4 #bj ,see ,electives1 page #cf4 ,,detailed ,,description ,,of ,,exercises4 ,review the divisions of the inch4 ,,patching ,,sampler4 ,materials3 ,gingham #h warp1 #ac woof2 white thread ,no4 #fj2 needle ,no4 #h4 ,it is desirable that each girl cut the two patches and the two pieces to be patched from the same piece of cloth1 that there may be no difficulty in matching the pattern1 when patching or when later sewing the two patched pieces together4 ,fold the piece of gingham1 eight inches by thirteen inches woof1 with the warp into three sections1 two of them eight inches warp by five inches woof1 and the third eight inches warp by three inches woof4 ,fold the three-inch piece across the warp in the center for the two patches4 ,cut on the creases4 ,pin one patch to one of the large pieces1 label with the girl's name and put it away for ,exercise ,no4 #bc4 ,,exercise ,,no4 #ba--;,,hemmed ,,patch4 ,materials3 ,first section of ,patching ,sampler4 ,the hemmed patch is the strongest and the one most commonly used for repairing garments4 ,the patch will not be noticeable if the pattern is skilfully matched4 ,when matching stripes or plaids always turn on the line where the color changes1 never through the middle of a stripe4 ,ten minutes spent on a paper pattern will prevent the mistakes beginners usually make in this exercise4 ,trim the patch and crease a quarter-inch fold on the four sides4 ,place the patch in the center of the large piece 7which we will imagine to be worn7 and baste around it1 matching the pattern carefully4 ,do not allow pupils to go any farther until the patch is basted on exactly right4 ,turn to the right side and cut out the part supposed to be worn by the following successive steps3 #a4 ,measure one-half inch 7or as near it as the pattern will permit7 from the edge of the patch1 using pins for marking the line where it is to be cut4 #b4 ,cut out the center1 leaving about one-half inch extending over the patch4 #c4 ,clip the corners diagonally the exact width of the fold to be turned in4 ,take great care and do not cut in too far1 as this will spoil the patch4 #d4 ,turn in the edge1 baste and hem4 #e4 ,hem the patch on the wrong side4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,mitered ,,corner4 ,,exercise ,,no4 #bb--,,mitered ,,corner4 ,materials3 ,paper4 ,teach the mitered corner on paper only4 ,have it done over and over until every pupil understands how it is done1 and can do it alone1 rapidly and perfectly4 ,ask pupils to bring paper from home1 as almost any kind will do for this practice work4 ,have it made in hems of several widths4 ,see description of ,miscellaneous exercises1 page #gi4 ,,exercise ,,no4 #bc--,,overhand ,,patch4 ,materials3 ,second section of the ,patching ,sampler4 ,the overhand patch is used on very thin material1 such as lawn1 dimity or organdy1 where strength is not required and where the two thicknesses of cloth around the edge of the hemmed patch would be too noticeable4 ,the pattern should be as carefully matched as in the hemmed patch and equal care given to the corners4 ,a paper pattern will assist beginners4 ,fold the large piece of gingham with the four corners together and clip off the point from the center4 ,the following are the successive steps for making the overhand patch3 #a4 ,measure on each side of the center1 with the warp1 one and one-fourth inches and with the woof three-fourths of an inch4 ,mark with pins4 #b4 ,cut out the oblong at these points 7or as near as the pattern permits1 observing also the pattern of the patch to be used47 #c4 ,clip the corners diagonally the exact width of the fold to be turned in4 #d4 ,turn in the fold on the four sides of the hole4 #e4 ,crease the folds on the four sides of the patch so that it will fit exactly into the hole1 matching patterns4 #f4 ,beginning near the middle of one side overhand the patch in1 matching as you overhand4 ,do not baste4 ,the two patched pieces are to be overhanded together4 ,turn a quarter-inch fold on each with the warp1 matching the pattern1 baste together and overhand4 ,teach the ,overcasting on the ,practice ,piece and overcast all raw edges on the ,patching ,sampler4 ,,exercise ,,no4 #bd--;,,basketry--,,christmas ,,piece4#babb ,this subject has such limitless possibilities and its success or failure rests so entirely with the teacher that it will be necessary for each teacher to prepare herself to teach it and decide upon the style1 size and general character of the design of the baskets to be made by her class1 allowing the pupils as far as possible to work out their individual tastes4 ,see chapter on ,basketry1 page #aad4 ,,exercise ,,no4 #be--,,napkin--,,damask ,,hem4#bc ,materials3 ,damask #h-a_/b x #h-a_/b2 white thread ,no4 #fj2 needle ,no4 #h4 ,see ,description of the ,damask ,hem1 page #gj4 ,trim the napkin square4 ,crease a half-inch hem on the four sides4 ,the corners are to be mitered1 and this is more easily done by basting the side hems in place1 skipping across the corners when basting4 ,turn out the corners and miter them4 ,hem the corners with the flat hem and the sides with the damask hem4 ,,exercise ,,no4 #bf--;,,flannel ,,patch4 ,materials3 ,flannel #f-a_/b x #f-a_/b1 patch #c x #c2 sewing silk2 needle ,no4 #h4 ,see description of the ,herringbone ,stitch1 page #gg4 ,cut from the center of the large piece of flannel a two-inch square4 ,trim the patch square and place it over this hole4 ,baste at both edges4 ,teach the herringbone stitch on the practice piece1 and herringbone over the raw edges of the patch4 ,turn one fold three-eighths of an inch wide on the four sides of the large piece1 baste and herringbone stitch the raw edge4 ,keep the raw edges trimmed4 ,,exercise ,,no4 #bg--;,a ,,pair ,,of ,,sleeve ,,protectors4 ,materials3 ,cotton twill #h-a_/b x #aa2 tape #cf2 ribbon elastic #d2 white thread ,no4 #fj2 needle ,no4 #h4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,cooking ,,set1 ,,consisting ,,of ,,an ,,apron 7,,exercise ,,no4 #cc71 ,,sleeve ,,protectors 7,,exercise ,,no4 #bg71 ,,and ,a ,,holder ,,and ,,case 7,,an ,,elective ,,for ,,exercise ,,no4 #bd74 ,to cut the pattern of a sleeve protector3 ,cut an oblong eight inches by ten and one-half inches4 ,fold through the center the long way4 ,mark the top of the folded edge ,a1 the bottom ,b1 the upper right hand corner ,c and the lower ,d4 ,measure down on the folded edge from ,a four inches and mark ,e4 ,measure down from ,c four inches and mark ,f4 ,measure up from ,d five inches and mark ,g4 ,measure on the line ,b ,d three and one fourth inches from ,b and mark ,h4 ,connect ,g and ,h with a straight line4 ,with ,e as the center and ,e ,a as the radius draw a quarter of a circle connecting ,a and ,f4 ,cut on the lines ,h ,g1 and ,a ,f4 ,cut the sleeve protectors from the pattern4 ,beginning at the center of the bottom and holding the wrong side of the cloth next to you1 baste the edge of the sleeve protector to the line running through the middle of the tape4 ,make a tiny pleat in the tape at each corner so that when doubled over it will round the corners smoothly4 ,join the ends of the tape by folding back both ends and overhanding them together on the wrong side4 ,hem the tape down on the right side4 ,before basting the tape down on the wrong side1 fasten the elastic in place on one side of the sleeve protector4 ,the elastic is in two pieces1 two inches in length4 ,place the first piece one inch from the bottom and the second piece three inches above the first4 ,baste the tape down on the wrong side and hem1 leaving the opening for the other end of the elastic1 which is fastened in place after the hemming is done4 ,lay the binding smooth over the elastic and stitch along the edge of the tape1 through the elastic1 to hold in place4 ,,exercise ,,no4 #bh--;,a ,,garment ,,brought ,,from ,,home ,,to ,,be ,,mended4 ,ask every pupil to bring some article from home1 in preference a garment1 to be mended4 ,there is no home that cannot furnish a garment that needs repairing4 ,this is a practical application of ,exercises #ba1 #bc or #bf1 and is a valuable experience for the children4 ,,exercise ,,no4 #bi--;,a ,,pin ,,cushion4#bd ,materials3 ,these will be furnished by the pupils4 ,pupils and teachers will plan their own designs1 adapting them to the material furnished4 ,the cushions may be of any size1 shape or kind4 ,do not have the children incur expense1 as small pieces of ribbon1 silk or bright bits of many kinds of cloth can be made into attractive cushions4 ,hardwood sawdust1 sifted1 makes an excellent filling4 ,,exercise ,,no4 #cj--,,textile ,,fibers ,,and ,,fabrics--,,cotton4 ,under the heading ,textile ,fibers and ,fabrics1 page #ib1 will be found subject matter which can be used in correlation with the geography1 language and history work4 ,the fifth grade subject is cotton4 ,many interesting collections can be made that will be instructive for the children4 ,illustration3 ,,pin ,,cushions ,,to ,,illustrate ,,exercise ,,no4 #bi4 a4 ,cotton fabrics with their names and uses4 b4 ,pictures4 c4 ,cotton fiber in the various stages of manufacture4 d4 ,maps upon which can be located the countries producing cotton and cities noted for the manufacture of cotton cloth4 e4 ,compositions on cotton and allied subjects4 ,,electives4 #ba ,the round holder and case may be substituted for the basketry1 or a blank book with paper cover or the folding envelope case may be made instead4 ,see ,paper1 ,cloth and ,cardboard ,construction1 page #ajd4 #bb ,the pin cushion may be substituted for the basketry and the book cover1 or the book bag1 or the round holder given for ,exercise ,no4 #bi4 #bc ,a book cover or a book bag for carrying books may be substituted for the pin cushion4 ,a ,,round ,,holder ,,and ,,case4 ,materials3 ,unbleached muslin1 #ad x #g2 bleached muslin #ae x #g-c_/d2 strap #ah x #a-a_/b2 bias binding #be x #a2 wadding4 ,to cut the ,circular ,pattern3 ,cut a square of paper eight inches by eight inches and fold it three times4 ,measure three and five-eighth inches from the point on each folded edge and once between these edges4 ,draw a curved line connecting these points and cut on the line4 ,the case is cut from this pattern1 a circle having a radius of three and five-eighth inches and the holder from a pattern one-fourth of an inch smaller with a radius of three and three-eighth inches4 ,the ,holder3 ,cut from the unbleached muslin two circular pieces4 ,turn in one-fourth of an inch around both pieces4 ,place the wadding between them2 pin and baste together4 ,overhand the folded edges4 ,quilt the holder in a simple pattern with the running stitch4 ,the ,case3 ,cut from the bleached muslin two circular pieces4 ,fold one piece with the warp through the center and cut on the fold4 ,turn an eighth of an inch hem on each of the straight edges just cut1 and hem4 ,the pupils who work rapidly could design a simple decoration for the front of the case4 ,this could be traced1 or drawn with a hard pencil and worked with a coarse1 colored thread in any decorative stitch1 before making the case4 ,place the half circles on the large circle and baste around the edge4 ,this will leave an opening of about half an inch into which the holder will easily slip4 ,make the strap by which the holder case is hung from the belt1 by folding in the edges at the sides and across one end and overhanding together4 ,the raw end of the strap is then fastened at one end of the case-opening1 so that it will come under the binding4 ,see description of the ,bias1 page #gi4 ,teach the cutting and joining of bias pieces1 first with paper and then with the cloth4 ,in order to give the pupil this valuable experience cut the binding in three pieces and join them together4 ,stitch along the edge of the binding where it folds back against the strap4 ,slip the holder into the case4 ,a ,,book ,,cover4 ,materials3 ,grass linen or ,holland #ae woof by #aj warp2 white thread ,no4 #fj2 needles ,nos4 #h and #e2 luster cotton4 ,the ,design3 ,start several weeks before the class is ready to make it1 arouse an interest1 and study designs for book covers4 ,ask pupils to bring from home books having good designs on the covers4 ,have them tell why they like certain ones and do not favor others4 ,in a word1 educate their tastes in this line before expecting them to originate designs4 ,do not attempt anything elaborate4 ,many artistic effects can be obtained by interlacing straight lines and these have the advantage of being easily worked4 ,paper cutting is an excellent medium for experimenting1 if a unit is to be repeated or if curves are desired in the outline4 ,for example1 fold an oblong1 four and one-half by seven inches1 through the center both ways1 and cut on a slightly curving line from the folded edges to the corner4 ,quite a variety of simple1 graceful outlines can be made by slightly varying these curves1 which1 with a simple unit repeated around the center or in each corner makes an effective design4 ,have the finished pattern before starting the book cover4 ,trace on the cloth by means of the carbon paper4 ,it will be necessary to crease the cover over the book before putting on the design1 so that it may be placed just right4 ,to ,make the ,book ,cover3 ,work the design with the outline stitch before sewing up the seams4 ,overcast the raw edges at the top and bottom of the cover and hem with a quarter-inch hem the two ends that fold into the book4 ,the raw-edged hem1 finished with the herringbone stitch1 could be used in place of the plain hem1 if desired4 ,turn in the top and bottom of the cover so that the book will slip in easily4 ,overhand that part which folds into the books to the outside1 at top and bottom1 thus forming the pockets into which the covers of the book slip4 ,do the overhanding on the wrong side and then turn it to the right side4 ,a ,,book ,,bag4 ,materials3 ,galatea1 kaiki or burlap #ae woof1 #ac warp2 two strips for handles #ad warp by #c woof2 thread ,no4 #dj2 needle ,no4 #g4 ,the decoration of the bag should be done before sewing up the ends4 ,very artistic effects can be obtained in the applique4 ,see directions for the design of the book cover1 page #cg4 ,cut a three-inch strip from the length of the piece for the end pieces4 ,divide this into two pieces seven and one-half by three inches4 ,find the middle of one end of both end pieces and notch them4 ,fold the large piece with the warp through the center and notch at both ends of the fold4 ,turn in a quarter of an inch around the large piece and baste4 ,turn in a quarter of an inch across the notched end and sides of the end pieces4 ,place the notch at the end of one side piece to one in the large piece1 right sides together1 and pin in place4 ,overhand on the wrong side the two together across the end and up both sides4 ,put in the other end piece in the same way4 ,trim the end pieces even with the top of the case4 ,turn a three-quarter inch hem at the top4 ,before hemming make the straps for the handles by turning in and overhanding the edges4 ,insert both ends of one strap under the hem of the right side of the bag1 two inches from the middle or four inches apart and the other strap on the left side4 ,hem1 and fasten the handles to the edge of the hem by backstitching4 #bd ,a cover for a pin cushion affords a good application for the mitered corner4 ,this can be made any size1 square or oblong4 ,ornament with fine feather stitching and the star stitch4 ,,chapter ,v4 ,,course ,,of ,,instruction4 ,,fourth ,,year--,,sixth ,,grade4 ,,equipment4 ,sewing box4 ,pin cushion--#cj pins4 ,thimble4 ,needles4 ,scissors4 ,thread cards4 ,practice ,piece--unbleached muslin #i x #ab4 ,,order ,,of ,,exercises4 ,prepare ,thread ,cards--,cardboard #d x #d--;designed and cut for four kinds of thread4 ,exercise ,no4 #ca--,stocking ,darning4 ,exercise ,no4 #cb--,placket ,sampler--,a ,placket4 ,exercise ,no4 #cc--;,an ,apron--,christmas ,piece4#be ,exercise ,no4 #cd--,placket ,sampler--,the ,gusset4#bf ,exercise ,no4 #ce--;,buttonholes4 ,exercise ,no4 #cf--,placket ,sampler--,the ,nightgown ,opening4 ,exercise ,no4 #cg--;,hemstitched ,collar or ,handkerchief4#bg ,exercise ,no4 #ch--,placket ,sampler--,bands4 ,exercise ,no4 #ci--;,an ,underskirt4 ,exercise ,no4 #dj--,textile ,fibers and ,fabrics--,flax4 ,,footnotes3 #be ,see ,electives1 page #dh4 #bf ,see ,electives1 page #dh4 #bg ,see ,electives1 page #dh4 ,,detailed ,,description ,,of ,,exercises4 ,teach the yard measure and its divisions4 ,see note under ,exercise ,no4 #ce--;,buttonholes4 ,illustration3 ,,stockinet ,,darning4 ,,exercise ,,no4 #ca--,,stocking ,,darning4 ,materials3 ,stockinet #d x #d2 cardboard #c x #c2 darning cotton2 darning needle2 a pair of worn stockings4 ,see description of ,stocking ,darning1 page #fg4 ,pupils will furnish their own cardboard and have it cut and ready for the lesson1 also a pair of worn stockings4 ,the cardboard is a substitute for the darning ball4 ,do not stretch the cloth too tightly over the card1 nor put in a needless number of stitches at the back to hold it on1 five or six being sufficient to hold it temporarily in place4 ,the darning cotton winds from the spool in several strands loosely twisted together4 ,separate and use two1 three or more strands1 depending upon the texture of the cloth to be darned4 ,take care not to split the threads when weaving across them1 and also avoid putting the threads so far apart that holes are left between them4 ,in fact1 try to have pupils understand that they are supplying a piece of cloth that has been worn away1 and that when finished should match as nearly as possible in color and texture the cloth that is being repaired4 ,stockinet1 like stockings1 is a knitted1 not a woven fabric1 and as every stitch is drawn through the one below it1 it is very necessary that the loops be caught before they ravel back4 ,prepare the hole for darning by whipping the edge with fine thread1 catching up all the severed loops4 ,either a round or an oblong hole may be cut in the stockinet1 the round hole being three-fourths of an inch across1 and the oblong three-fourths of an inch by one inch4 ,follow the exercise in stockinet darning1 in which the principles of darning have been taught1 with the darning of a pair of worn stockings that the pupils have brought from home4 ,every child in the class must be given this practical and useful experience4 ,if there is difficulty in securing these stockings1 members of the class or the teacher can readily supply the deficiency4 ,,exercise ,,no4 #cb--,,placket ,,sampler--,a ,,placket4 ,materials3 ,calico #ab woof1 #ad warp2 facings and bands #eh x #b2 white thread ,no4 #fj2 needle ,no4 #h4 ,see description of ,plackets1 page #ha4 ,upon this sampler is taught the placket1 the gusset1 the nightgown opening and two different methods of putting on bands1 and in addition a review of the ,french seam and the ,french fell4 ,it is made in sections which are combined later4 ,these lessons are interspersed with other exercises that the pupils may not become tired of this piece4 ,teach the placket and the nightgown opening first on paper4 ,it will save time and trouble in the end4 ,fold the large piece of calico across the warp through the center and cut on the fold4 ,fold one of these pieces with the warp1 through the center and cut4 ,the first exercise of the ,placket ,sampler is done on one of these quarters4 ,as these sections are to be sewed together later each girl must have her own pieces4 ,to avoid the possibility of their being lost or soiled1 those not in use should be wrapped in paper1 labeled and collected by the teacher and kept until ready for ,exercise ,no4 #cd4 ,illustration3 ,,placket ,,sampler 7,,front ,,view74 ,first section of the ,placket ,sampler3 ,fold the piece of calico with the warp1 through the center and cut an opening on this fold five inches in length4 ,then follow the directions for making ,placket ,b4 ,facing eleven inches by two inches4 ,,exercise ,,no4 #cc--;,,an ,,apron--,,the ,,christmas ,,piece4#bhca ,materials3 ,pupils will select and furnish their own materials for an apron4 ,this may be of any style or kind1 and will afford an excellent opportunity for carrying out their individual tastes4 ,this may necessitate the teaching of the principles of bands which can be done with the practice piece4 ,see description of ,bands1 page #gi4 ,illustration3 ,,placket ,,sampler 7,,back ,,view74 ,illustration3 ,,aprons--,,exercise ,,no4 #cc4 ,,exercise ,,no4 #cd--,,placket ,,sampler--,,the ,,gusset4#bi ,second section of the ,placket ,sampler4 ,materials3 ,the second quarter of the large piece of calico2 a two-inch square of calico for the gusset4 ,fold with the warp through the center1 and cut an opening on this fold five inches in length4 ,then follow the directions for making the gusset4 ,sew the two sections together with the ,french fell4 ,hem the sides with a quarter-inch hem4 ,,exercise ,,no4 #ce--;,,buttonholes4 ,materials3 ,blue ,percale #i woof by #d warp2 scraps of calico for practice pieces2 white thread ,no4 #dj and ,no4 #hj2 needles ,no4 #g and ,no4 #h4 ,remember the old adage ,practice ,makes ,perfect4 ,see description of the ,buttonhole1 page #fc4 ,note3 ,scraps and odd pieces of calico can be used for the practice work on buttonholes4 ,as the buttonhole requires a great deal of practice it is well to keep these pieces in the sewing box and work at it at odd times during the progress of the years' work4 ,encourage the girls1 too1 to practice on the buttonhole for home work4 ,in this way they will gradually acquire the skill which only comes with practice4 ,fold the cloth1 wrong side out1 with the woof and through the center1 and baste the edges together4 ,begin with the blind buttonhole4 ,the buttonhole model is intended to show how much skill has been acquired4 ,fold the percale through the center1 with the woof1 and baste the edges together4 ,make the buttonholes three-fourths of an inch long and one inch apart4 ,,exercise ,,no4 #cf--,,placket ,,sampler--,,the ,,shirt ,,sleeve ,,or ,,nightgown ,,opening4 ,materials3 ,half of the large piece of calico2 facing #ah x #b4 ,fold with the warp through the center and cut an opening on this fold five inches in length4 ,then follow the directions for the ,nightgown ,opening4 ,hem the side of the narrower part with a quarter-inch hem4 ,,exercise ,,no4 #cg--;,a ,,hemstitched ,,collar4#bicj ,materials3 ,butcher's linen1 collar #ae-a_/b warp by #c woof1 ,india linen band #ae-a_/b warp by #a-a_/b woof2 practice piece #f warp by #d woof2 white thread ,no4 #hj2 needle ,no4 #h4 ,measure the neck and decide upon the length of collar and width of hem before trimming4 ,see directions for ,hemstitching1 page #gf4 ,put the collar band on the collar4 ,the collars may be still further ornamented with fine feather stitching1 the star stitch or ,french knots4 ,,exercise ,,no4 #ch--,,placket ,,sampler--,,bands--,,hemmed ,,and ,,overhanded4 ,see description of ,bands and ,gathering1 pages #fh and #gi4 ,to avoid soiling the cloth put the bands on before seaming the halves of the ,placket ,sampler together4 ,this can be done with the exception of the band on the long side of the nightgown opening1 which will have to be done after this side is basted to the other section1 cut off and hemmed1 and will therefore be the last thing to be done on the ,sampler4 ,put the hemmed bands on the side having the placket and the gusset1 and the overhand bands on the side of the nightgown opening4 ,length of bands3 ,on the first half1 short bands cut two inches1 one and one-half inches finished2 long band cut four inches1 three and one-half inches finished2 on the last half1 bands cut three and three quarters inches1 three and one-quarter inches finished4 ,sew the two sections of the ,sampler together with the ,french seam4 ,the section having the two openings is a little narrower than the other4 ,baste the two sections together1 basting the little pleats at the end of the placket and the nightgown opening1 and sew them into the seam4 ,do not cut off the long side until basted nearly across1 then cut off and hem the side4 ,finish with the last band4 ,,exercise ,,no4 #ci--;,,an ,,underskirt4 ,materials3 ,pupils will furnish their own material for an underskirt for themselves4 ,the patterns which their mothers use can be secured from the home1 or one pattern used by all the members of the class4 ,these skirts may be made plain or trimmed with tucked ruffles of cloth or with embroidery1 depending upon the wishes of the mothers1 the skill and taste of the individuals and the material furnished4 ,should there be difficulty in securing material for the garment1 a small model on the half-inch scale or one of the electives can be substituted4 ,insist that the work be well done1 neatly finished and first class throughout4 ,use sewing machines when available4 ,points to emphasize in the making of a skirt3 #a4 ,cut a correct pattern before beginning the skirt4 ,do not trust to making corrections when cutting out4 #b4 ,baste the straight edge of one gore to the bias edge of another when making a gored skirt4 ,this prevents the sagging which would occur if two bias edges were sewed together4 #c4 ,allow plenty in hem and tucks for letting down when making garments for growing girls4 ,,exercise ,,no4 #dj--,,textile ,,fibers ,,and ,,fabrics--,,flax4 ,under the heading ,textile ,fibers and ,fabrics1 page #id1 will be found subject matter which can be used in correlation with the geography1 language and history work4 ,the sixth grade subject is ,flax4 ,make a collection of the flax products1 fabrics1 etc4 ,a class set of compositions1 each member of the class taking different subdivisions of the subject1 would make an interesting collection which could be put together in a simple binding done by members of the class4 ,see ,paper and ,cardboard ,construction1 page #aja4 ,,electives4 #bh ,placket ,a may be substituted for the gusset1 if desired4 #bi ,a pin cushion cover may be hemstitched in place of the collar4 ,make this a square seven inches by seven inches1 or an oblong five inches by nine inches1 or any size to fit a particular cushion that can be cut from these pieces1 or any size for which the pupils furnish their own material4 ,illustration3 ,,round ,,bottom ,,bag ,,with ,,raffia ,,covering4 #cj ,pupils who desire to furnish their own materials for a linen handkerchief may substitute this for the hemstitched collar4 #ca ,basketry may be substituted for the apron1 or a clipping case or a postal-card album may be made instead4 ,see ,paper1 ,cloth and ,cardboard ,construction1 page #ajg4 ,,the ,,round ,,bottom ,,bag ,,with ,a ,,fancy ,,raffia ,,covering4 ,make the bag any size desired2 a circle of three or four inches in diameter makes a practical one4 ,draw the pattern for the raffia covering on paper1 the circle for the bottom being the same size as that of the bottom of the bag4 ,the design for the sides may be in as many sections as desired4 ,the tops of these sections may be shaped to suit one's taste--round1 pointed or fancy4 ,when the pattern is completed baste a strand of raffia on the pattern1 following the lines of the design4 ,then closely blanket stitch with raffia on both sides of these strands4 ,the spaces may then be filled with fancy lace stitches4 ,,chapter ,,vi4 ,,course ,,of ,,instruction4 ,,fifth ,,year--,,seventh ,,grade4 ,,equipment4 ,sewing box4 ,pin cushion--#cj pins4 ,thimble4 ,needles4 ,scissors4 ,thread cards4 ,practice ,piece--,unbleached muslin #ab x #i4 ,,order ,,of ,,exercises4 ,prepare ,thread ,cards--,cardboard #d x #d1 designed and cut for four kinds of thread4 ,exercise ,no4 #da--;,a ,trial ,piece for ,finishing the ,bottom of ,drawers4 ,exercise ,no4 #db--;,an ,underwaist or ,corset ,cover4 ,exercise ,no4 #dc--;,collars1 ,jabots1 ,bows1 etc4--,christmas ,piece4#cb ,exercise ,no4 #dd--;,a ,study of ,home ,furnishing1 ,decoration and ,care4#cc ,exercise ,no4 #de--,twist ,buttonholes4 ,exercise ,no4 #df--;,a ,pair of ,drawers4 ,exercise ,no4 #dg--;,cloth ,darning4 ,exercise ,no4 #dh--,textile ,fibers and ,fabrics--,wool4 ,,footnotes3 #cb ,see ,electives1 page #fa4 #cc ,see ,electives1 page #fa4 ,,detailed ,,description ,,of ,,exercises4 ,review ,divisions of the ,foot and ,yard ,measure4 ,,exercise ,,no4 #da--;,a ,,trial ,,piece ,,for ,,finishing ,,the ,,bottom ,,of ,a ,,pair ,,of ,,drawers4 ,materials3 ,india linen #h x #h1 ruffle #ab woof1 #b warp2 white thread ,no4 #gj2 needle ,no4 #h4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,trial ,,piece1 ,,giving ,,practice ,,on ,,the ,,hemmed ,,seam1 ,,tucking1 ,,and ,,putting ,a ,,ruffle ,,into ,a ,,hem-,,tuck4 ,hemmed ,seam3 ,one inch and a quarter from the top crease a fold with the warp4 ,cut on this crease4 ,see description of the ,hemmed ,seam1 page #hf4 ,putting a ruffle into a hem-tuck and tucking3 ,measure up from the bottom two and one-fourth inches--or twice the width of the hem-tuck plus one-fourth inch for the seam--and crease with the warp1 across the piece4 ,stitch1 or run by hand an inch tuck1 taking care to measure and make perfectly even4 ,measure up three-eighths of an inch from this stitching and crease for another tuck4 ,stitch1 or run by hand an eighth of an inch tuck4 ,measure up three-eighths of an inch for another tuck4 ,put in a cluster of three tucks4 ,hem the ruffle with an eighth of an inch hem1 gather and stroke the gathers4 ,see description of gathering and sewing a ruffle to a straight edge1 page #fi4 ,place the wrong sides of the cloth and ruffle together and baste to the edge extending below the hem-tuck1 bringing the seam exactly to the edge of the tuck4 ,baste and stitch the edge of the hem-tuck over the seam of the ruffle4 ,,exercise ,,no4 #db--;,,an ,,underwaist ,,or ,,corset ,,cover4 ,materials3 ,pupils may furnish their own materials for an underwaist such as they wear4 ,this may be of any style4 ,patterns can be secured from the mothers4 ,if there is any difficulty in securing supplies from the home1 a child's waist on a small scale may be substituted4 ,,the ,,small ,,waist4 ,materials3 ,bleached muslin #bd woof by #aj warp1 bias facings #ed by #a2 white thread ,no4 #gj2 needle ,no4 #h4 ,see the draft for the pattern of the small underwaist1 page #ec4 ,patterns3 ,multiply all dimensions by four4 ,each girl can draft her pattern from the teacher's dictation1 or one pattern can be drafted before the lesson and the members of the class cut their patterns from this one4 ,insist that the patterns be exact4 ,have the patterns pinned on1 and submitted for inspection before the cutting is done1 to avoid blunders and waste of material4 ,cut the front double4 ,one inch has been allowed for the hem on the backs4 ,illustration3 ,,draft ,,for ,,pattern ,,of ,,underwaist4 ,this draft can be used for an underwaist of any size4 ,determine the length of the under arm seam in the garment required and divide this by #a-a_/d4 ,multiply all dimensions by this quotient4 ,as a small fraction complicates the process and makes very little difference1 use the whole number which is nearest the quotient obtained4 ,the slight alterations necessary can be made in the fitting4 ,illustration3 ,,front ,,of ,,corset ,,cover ,,and ,,back ,,of ,,girl',s ,,underwaist4 ,baste1 half-back stitch and fell the seams4 ,turn the hems at the back1 baste and hem4 ,see description of the ,bias1 page #gi4 ,put the bias facing on the bottom first1 then around the neck1 and last around the armholes4 ,teach the joining of the bias facing by having the bottom facing in two pieces and then insist that the ends of the armhole facing be joined in the same way4 ,overhand neatly the ends of the bottom and neck facings4 ,make four quarter-inch buttonholes and sew on the buttons4 ,,exercise ,,no4 #dc--;,,collars1 ,,jabots1 ,,bows1 ,,etc4--,,christmas ,,piece4#cd ,the styles of dressing the neck vary greatly from season to season4 ,this is also modified by the taste of individuals4 ,pupils may furnish their own material for any kind of collar desired1 after thoughtful consideration of the prevailing styles4 ,it is possible to make a great variety of useful and dainty articles at a trifling expense which will be most acceptable ,christmas gifts4 ,if so intended1 lead the pupils to study the appropriateness of their gifts4 ,those pupils who find it difficult to furnish their own material may substitute a collar made from an imitation of linen which will afford the same experience in making1 but will not be quite as desirable an article to wear4 ,materials3 ,imitation linen #ae woof1 #h warp4 ,this amount will cut either the ,dutch collar by piecing the band1 or the ordinary stiff collar4 ,the patterns for both1 or the collars from which patterns can be cut1 can be brought from home by some member of the class4 ,be absolutely sure of the size before cutting out the collar1 as a quarter of an inch will make a difference in the comfort and fit4 ,it is an excellent plan to have collars of different sizes--#ab1 #ab-a_/b1 #ac1 #ac-a_/b--;in the class1 try them on1 and mark the buttonholes on the bands from the right sized collars4 ,the ,dutch collar can be made with a plain hem and finished with the fine featherstitching or any of the ornamental stitches1 or it can be embroidered in a simple pattern with the eyelet embroidery4 ,this gives an excellent opportunity for an original design1 or if so desired a pattern can be transferred by the use of the carbon paper4 ,the stiff collar1 if made double1 is first sewed up on the wrong side and then turned and stitched along the edge on the right4 ,it is then put into the double band1 which has been made in the same way4 ,if so desired the collar can be made of a single embroidered piece with the worked edge1 or finished with the hemstitched edge and ornamented with fancy stitches4 ,,exercise ,,no4 #dd--;,a ,,study ,,of ,,home ,,furnishing1 ,,decoration ,,and ,,care4#ce ,the success of this exercise will depend entirely upon the interest and ingenuity of the teacher4 ,see ,home ,furnishing1 ,decoration and ,care1 page #aab4 ,,exercise ,,no4 #de--,,twist ,,buttonholes4 ,materials3 ,french flannel #c-a_/b warp by #f-a_/b woof2 twist2 sewing silk2 needle ,no4 #g and ,no4 #h4 ,see description of the ,buttonhole1 page #fc4 ,pupils will furnish their own twist and flannel for the practice work4 ,it is not necessary that these should match in color4 ,double the flannel through the center the long way1 baste along the folded edge and around the piece4 ,overcast the raw edges4 ,begin one-half inch from the top and make the buttonholes three-fourths of an inch long and three-fourths of an inch apart4 ,strand1 overcast and finish with the bar4 ,,exercise ,,no4 #df--;,a ,,pair ,,of ,,drawers4 ,materials3 ,pupils may furnish their own materials for a full-sized garment4 ,this may be made in any style4 ,patterns can be secured from the mothers or exchanged among the members of the class1 or a pattern may be drafted from the diagram4 ,secure the pattern first and have the girls measure it to determine the amount of material needed4 ,if there is any difficulty in securing supplies from the home1 a pair of child's drawers on a smaller scale may be substituted4 ,the directions for making the small drawers will assist in making the full-sized garment4 ,,the ,,small ,,drawers4 ,materials3 ,bleached muslin #cf woof1 #aa warp2 ruffling1 ,india linen #cf woof1 #a-a_/b warp2 white thread ,no4 #gj2 needle ,no4 #h4 ,illustration3 ,,draft ,,for ,a ,,pattern ,,of ,a ,,pair ,,of ,,drawers4 ,this draft can be used for a pattern of any size4 ,determine the length at the side of the garment required1 and divide this by #b-a_/b and multiply all dimensions by this figure4 ,as a small fraction complicates the process and will make very little difference in this garment1 use the whole number which is nearest the quotient obtained4 ,fold a large piece of paper1 the fold of which will represent the fold at the side of the drawers4 ,draw the diagram enlarged upon one side of this4 ,the lines for both the front and back are the same1 except the two inside lines at the top1 which will cut the front a little smaller than the back4 ,it is for this reason that it is drawn on the double paper4 ,patterns3 ,see the draft for the drawers pattern1 page #eg4 ,multiply the dimensions by four4 ,each girl can draft a pattern from the teacher's dictation1 or one pattern can be drafted and cut before class time1 and the members of the class cut their patterns from this one4 ,a strip of muslin thirty-six inches by eleven inches will cut the drawers by careful management4 ,the lesson in economy and the experience of cutting from a close pattern is a valuable one for the girls1 as it is a problem which will confront them many times in life4 ,fold the cloth the short way through the center1 and pin the selvedge edges together4 ,allow three and one-half inches from the fold for the placket facings and bands1 thus keeping the extra cloth in one large piece4 ,pin the pattern in position1 and cut the two lengths1 at the same time taking care that the lengthwise fold of the pattern is straight with the warp threads4 ,if the pattern does not allow for hem and tucks1 provide the extra length when cutting4 ,the right sides are now together2 mark them before separating1 and avoid the chance of making both pieces for the same leg1 a mistake easily made by more experienced needlewomen4 ,finish the bottom of the drawer legs with one-eighth inch tucks1 one-half inch hem-tuck and the ruffle as in ,exercise ,no4 #da4 ,one-half inch in front of the side fold cut an opening1 with the warp1 four inches in length4 ,this may be made in both legs or in the right one only1 and may be finished with the gusset1 placket ,a or placket ,b1 keeping in mind that the back buttons over the front4 ,finish all seams with the ,french seam except where the ends of the ruffle are joined with the hemmed seam4 ,gather the fullness at the top on both sides of the front and the back seams1 and draw up to the desired length of band4 ,if two openings have been cut at the sides make the back band one inch longer than the front4 ,place buttons and make buttonholes where desired4 ,,exercise ,,no4 #dg--;,,cloth ,,darning4 ,materials3 ,albatros #d x #e2 sewing silk2 needle ,no4 #h2 beeswax4 ,see description of ,cloth ,darning1 page #fh4 ,four holes1 cut as follows1 are to be darned on this piece of cloth3 ,no4 #a4 ,in the lower left hand corner one inch from the bottom and the side1 cut one inch straight with the warp4 ,darn with split sewing silk on the wrong side4 ,no4 #b4 ,in the upper left hand corner1 one inch from the top and side1 cut one inch with the warp and one inch with the woof4 ,this will serve for a three-cornered tear4 ,darn on the right side with ravelings4 ,spread the stitches at the corner like the sticks of a fan4 ,no4 #c4 ,in the lower right-hand corner1 one inch from the bottom and the side cut one inch on the bias4 ,darn with split sewing silk on the wrong side4 ,no4 #d4 ,in the upper right-hand corner1 one inch from the top and the side cut one inch across the warp4 ,this will serve for a worn place in the cloth4 ,place the patch under it and baste around the edge4 ,darn with ravelings on the right side4 ,trim the edges of the patch smooth and herringbone stitch with ravelings around it4 ,finish the edge of the piece with the blanket stitch4 ,follow this exercise with the repairing of some article brought from home that will give a practical experience in cloth darning4 ,should there be any difficulty in securing these articles there are plenty of homes that will supply enough for the entire class4 ,this must be done under the teacher's supervision4 ,,exercise ,,no4 #dh--,,textile ,,fibers ,,and ,,fabrics--,,wool4 ,under the heading ,textile ,fibers and ,fabrics1 page #ie1 will be found subject matter which can be used in correlation with the geography1 language and history work4 ,the seventh grade subject is ,wool4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,set ,,of ,,underwear4 ,,exercises #ci1 #db1 #df1 ,,and ,,an ,,elective4 ,,electives4 #cd ,an exercise in paper and cardboard construction1 adapted to the skill of the class1 may be substituted for the ,christmas ,exercise4 ,see chapter on ,paper and ,cardboard ,construction1 page #aja4 #ce ,in connection with the study of home furnishing and decoration an exercise in passepartout or the making of lamp shades would be excellent4 ,,chapter ,,vii4 ,,description ,,of ,,stitches4 ,,stitches ,,used ,,in ,,plain ,,sewing4 #a4 ,basting4 #b4 ,blind ,stitch4 #c4 ,buttonholes4 #d4 ,combination ,stitch4 #e4 ,darning4 #f4 ,gathering4 #g4 ,half-back ,stitch4 #h4 ,hemming4 #i4 ,overcasting4 #aj4 ,overhanding4 #aa4 ,running4 #ab4 ,slip ,stitch4 #ac4 ,stitching4 ,,ornamental ,,stitches4 #a4 ,bands4 #b4 ,blanket ,stitch4 #c4 ,chain ,stitch4 #d4 ,couching4 #e4 ,feather ,stitch4 #f4 ,french ,knots4 #g4 ,hemstitching4 #h4 ,herringbone ,stitch4 #i4 ,kensington ,outline4 #aj4 ,lazy ,daisy or ,star ,stitch4 ,,miscellaneous4 #a4 ,bias4 #b4 ,cloth4 #c4 ,eyelets and ,loops4 #d4 ,joining and ,fastening ,threads4 #e4 ,mitered ,corner4 #f4 ,patterns4 #g4 ,plackets4 #h4 ,putting in ,sleeves4 #i4 ,seams4 ,a4 ,bound ,seam4 ,b4 ,flannel ,seam4 ,c4 ,french ,fell4 ,d4 ,french ,seam4 ,e4 ,hemmed ,seam4 #aj4 ,sewing on ,buttons4 #aa4 ,sewing on ,hooks and ,eyes4 #ab4 ,sewing on ,lace4 #ac4 ,tucking4 ,,stitches ,,used ,,in ,,plain ,,sewing4 ,basting4--,basting is temporary sewing used to hold the cloth in place while putting in permanent stitches4 ,as the basting threads are to be removed1 place the knot on the right side4 ,fasten the threads securely by taking two or three backstitches4 ,in removing basting threads clip the threads at short intervals that they may be taken out easily4 ,much of the success of the work depends upon careful basting4 ,the extra time required will be repaid ten-fold4 ,one stitch at a time for beginners1 later two or three stitches may be taken4 ,in basting hems1 baste not on the edge1 but very near it4 ,do not baste on the line where you expect to stitch1 but as near it as possible4 ,a4 ,an even basting is used on hems1 seams of garments1 or wherever two pieces of cloth are to be held firmly together4 ,take up one-fourth of an inch and skip one-fourth4 ,b4 ,uneven basting is used where very careful basting is unnecessary1 as in the seams of skirts1 or in working on a material that clings together1 as a guide for stitching4 ,take up an eighth of an inch and skip three-eighths4 ,when only loose basting is required1 as when holding the lining and outside together1 a long stitch and two short ones may be used4 ,blind ,stitch4--,the blind stitch and slip stitch are used to fasten a hem lightly where it is desired to conceal the stitches4 ,to blind stitch a hem1 turn back the edge of the hem to the basting and1 holding the cloth along the edge of the finger1 catch first cloth and then hem with a single stitch that does not show on either side4 ,a slip stitch is a long stitch on the wrong side and a blind stitch on the hem4 ,it is used on the milliner's fold4 ,buttonholes4--,a buttonhole is a slit cut and worked to admit a button for fastening purposes4 ,it is much easier for beginners to commence on the blind buttonhole4 ,this is made by working around a line instead of cutting the hole4 ,the stitch1 the fan1 and the finishing can thus be learned without the care of the raw edge4 ,the directions for making the buttonhole are as follows3 ,illustration3 ,,stitches ,,used ,,on ,,plain ,,sewing4 #a--,three styles of basting4 #b--,the running stitch4 #c--,the gathering4 #d--,the backstitch4 #e--,the half-back stitch4 #f--,the combination stitch4 #g--,the overcasting4 ,a4 ,,preparation ,,of ,,the ,,hole4 a4 ,cutting--,with the buttonhole scissors cut the hole one-fourth of an inch from the folded edge and straight with the threads of the cloth4 b4 ,stranding--,the strand consists of carrying the thread along the edge of the buttonhole near enough to be easily covered by the buttonhole stitch1 for the purpose of adding strength to the buttonhole4 ,thread two needles1 one with fine thread or sewing silk and the other with coarser thread or twist1 depending upon the kind of buttonhole to be made4 ,place a knot in the coarse thread or twist1 and with the folded edge of the cloth toward the left hand1 bring the needle out just below the lower right hand end of the buttonhole1 which is the end farthest from the folded edge4 ,at the other end put the needle into the cloth just below the end of the cut and bring it out just above1 which will carry the thread along the edge of the buttonhole4 ,repeat the same on the other side bringing the thread out at the point of starting4 ,do not cut this thread1 as this is ready to begin the buttonhole stitch after the overcasting4 c4 ,overcasting--,with the fine thread or sewing silk begin at the lower right-hand end4 ,the object of the overcasting is to prevent raveling while working the buttonhole and the fewer stitches which will accomplish this purpose the better4 ,as the overcasting must be covered by the buttonhole stitch do not take over two or three threads deep and just as few stitches on each side as is absolutely necessary to prevent the loosening of the threads4 ,some materials do not require overcasting4 ,b4 ,,working ,,the ,,buttonhole4 a4 ,the ,stitch--,determine how deep a stitch is necessary so that the threads will not pull out1 always keeping in mind that the shorter the stitch the better the buttonhole will look4 ,this depends upon the kind of material in use4 ,the first stitch begins one thread beyond the end of the slit4 ,holding the buttonhole along the cushion of the left forefinger with the folded edge of the cloth toward the left1 place the needle into the slit under the lower edge of the buttonhole and draw the needle half way through4 ,with the needle still pointing toward the chest take up the double thread at the eye of the needle and place it under the point1 passing from right to left4 ,draw the needle and thread out1 and from you1 so that the purl or twist comes to the edge of the slit4 7,this makes a firmer edge than when the thread is carried around the needle from left to right47 ,each stitch is a repetition of the above4 ,place the stitches about the width of a thread apart1 as this will avoid a crowded appearance and makes a firm1 hard edge4 ,do not jerk the thread1 but draw steadily and tight2 otherwise the edge will be rough4 ,avoid stretching the buttonhole2 the edges should touch when finished4 b4 ,the ,fan--,at the end near the folded edge--the round end--spread the stitches like the sticks of a fan1 drawing them closer at the top and spreading at the bottom4 ,five stitches will work nicely around the end1 the third stitch being straight with the buttonhole4 ,c4 ,,method ,,of ,,finishing ,,the ,,buttonhole4 a4 ,the simplest manner of finishing is as follows3 ,the buttonhole stitches at this end are at right angles to the slit1 and not rounding as at the other end4 ,after finishing the last buttonhole stitch1 pass the needle down between the first and second stitch1 and bring it out between the last and next to the last stitch4 ,draw the thread tight so as to bring the edges of the buttonhole together4 ,put in several stitches in the same place4 ,pass the needle to the under side and fasten the thread4 ,illustration3 ,,method ,,of ,,buttonholing4 b4 ,the ,bar--,the thread being at the top of the last stitch1 pass the needle down between the first and second stitch and out at the bottom of the last stitch4 ,put in three threads across the width of the buttonhole1 bringing the thread out at the bottom of the last buttonhole stitch4 ,turn the cloth so that the thumb covers the thread and the buttonhole1 and work the bar by bringing the needle out each time over the thread1 as in the blanket stitch4 ,draw the purl edge toward the buttonhole4 ,do not put in too many stitches1 as it makes the loop stand away from the buttonhole4 ,near the middle of the bar take one stitch through the cloth to hold it down4 c4 ,caution--,be sure that the thread is long enough to work the buttonhole1 but not over-long1 as the thread wears and is more liable to break4 ,use care and not break the thread1 but in case this happens1 take out the last few stitches1 thread the needle on this short end1 pass through the last purl1 and fasten the thread on the under side4 ,with the new thread fasten without a knot on the wrong side1 bring through the last purl at the edge of the buttonhole and continue4 ,on cloth that ravels badly put in two parallel rows of running stitches and then cut the buttonhole between the rows4 ,combination ,stitch4--,the ,combination stitch consists of three little running stitches and a backstitch over the last running stitch4 ,take three running stitches on the needle and pull it through4 ,take up the last running stitch for the first of the next group of three4 ,it is a little stronger than the running stitch4 ,darning4--,the object in darning is to repair a rent1 if possible so that it cannot be perceived4 ,the warp and woof threads that have been worn away are to be rewoven into the cloth4 ,no knots are needed4 ,leave a short end of thread to be clipped when the darn is finished4 ,a4 ,,stocking ,,darning4 ,stockings should be darned on the wrong side4 ,a square hole makes a more symmetrical darn than a round one1 and should be used wherever there is no widening or narrowing in the knitting1 as on the leg of a stocking4 ,a round hole is better for the heel and toe4 ,cut away the part that is badly worn4 ,first put in the warp threads1 taking care to take up on the needle all the little loops around the hole and making the darn symmetrical in shape4 ,then put in the woof threads1 weaving carefully across the warp over the hole1 passing over the threads that were taken up on the preceding row4 ,give special attention to the edge of the hole1 passing first over and then under the edge1 that there may be no ridge4 ,if the hole is large or stretched out of shape1 draw up the edges by whipping with fine thread4 ,the darning stitches should extend only as far as the worn part4 ,if the warp threads have strengthened the worn part sufficiently the woof threads may be extended only far enough over the edge to fasten securely4 ,in darning a large hole it is sometimes wise to begin putting in the warp threads at the center first to prevent stretching4 ,do not draw the threads too tight1 as they will shrink when washed4 ,b4 ,,cloth ,,darning4 ,this may be done with thread1 ravelings or hair4 ,in darning with thread darn on the wrong side1 with ravelings or hair on the right4 ,darn at right angles to the tear or cut4 ,continue the darning stitches on each side of the tear only far enough to strengthen the worn part1 usually a quarter1 sometimes an eighth of an inch1 is sufficient4 ,continue the darn an eighth of an inch beyond the end of the tear4 ,the repairing shows less if the rows of darning stitches are of unequal length4 ,in darning take up the threads of cloth passed over in the preceding row1 slipping the needle over one edge of the tear and under the other going one way and reversing this order going the other way4 ,this makes the edge smooth and does not throw it up in a ridge4 ,if the material to be darned is thin or stretches easily1 place the rent over a piece of glazed paper and baste around it before darning4 ,if the cloth is worn and thin1 place a piece of cloth under and darn through the two thicknesses4 ,take great care not to stretch the hole or to draw the threads tight enough to pucker4 ,gathering4--,gathering is an uneven stitch made by passing over twice as much as is taken on the needle4 ,when the thread is drawn up this gives the appearance of fine gathering on the right side and admits of considerable cloth being gathered into a small space4 ,gathering is used in joining a full part to a straight piece1 as the skirt to the band1 etc4 ,gather with a strong single thread a little longer than than the space to be gathered4 ,never use a double thread4 ,if the thread becomes knotted a new thread must be put in from the beginning4 ,hold the cloth1 as in the running stitch1 with the right side toward you1 using the wrist motion4 ,make a large knot in the thread so that it cannot slip through the cloth1 and place the knot on the wrong side4 ,at the end of the gathering slip the needle off and make a knot in the thread1 that it may not pull out4 ,a4 ,,stroking ,,gathers4 ,for stroking or placing gathers use a coarse needle or a pin4 ,draw up the gathering thread just tightly enough so that the pin can be easily inserted between the gathers and fasten by winding over a pin placed at right angles to the last stitch4 ,begin at the left hand1 placing the pin in the fold of the first stitch and stroke gently downward1 holding the pin obliquely4 ,after each successive stroke press the pleat under the thumb of the left hand4 ,continue the same with every stitch4 ,b4 ,,sewing ,,the ,,gathered ,,part ,,to ,,the ,,straight ,,piece4 ,divide both into halves1 quarters or eighths1 depending upon the length1 and pin the points of division together4 ,draw up the gathering thread to the proper length and fasten by winding over a pin4 ,arrange the gathers even before basting4 ,baste just above the gathers1 holding the gathered piece next to you4 ,stitch just below the gathering thread4 ,c4 ,,gauging4 ,gauging or double gathering is done by having a second row of gathering stitches of equal length and directly below those of the first 7so that when both threads are drawn up the cloth lies in pleats74 ,in heavy material three or four threads may be put in4 ,gauging is usually used on heavy material or on a folded edge that is to be overhanded to a band4 ,d4 ,,gathering ,,by ,,whipping ,a ,,rolled ,,edge4 ,ruffles of lawn1 linen or embroidery are sometimes put upon the edge instead of into a facing or seam1 and when so placed it is desirable to avoid the raw edge on the under side4 ,hold the work over the left forefinger and roll the edge toward you between the thumb and forefinger4 ,place the needle under the roll on the right side1 passing out at the top of the roll4 ,whip about one inch and draw up the thread4 ,it is necessary to use a strong thread for whipping and gathering the edge of a ruffle4 ,half-,back ,stitch4--,half-back stitching is similar to the stitching4 ,the long forward stitch on the under side is three times the length of the backstitch on the upper side1 and a space the length of the backstitch is left between the stitches4 ,see ,stitching1 page #fc4 ,hemming4--,a hem is a fold made by twice turning over the edge of a piece of cloth1 and then sewing it down4 ,the first fold is most important2 if that is turned even there will be little trouble with the second4 ,trim the edge of the cloth before turning the hem4 ,it is well to make and use a gauge of the required width4 ,if a wide hem is turned1 baste along the second fold or bottom of the hem first1 and then at the top4 ,on woolen goods or material that does not crease easily it is necessary to baste the first fold4 ,either bury the knot between the folds of the hem or leave one-half inch of thread and hem over it4 ,a4 ,,hemming ,,stitch4 ,hold the hem across the cushion of the left forefinger and point the needle a little to the left across the middle of the thumb4 ,take up a few threads of the cloth and a few threads of the fold and draw the needle through4 ,take care that the stitches are regular1 of equal length and of equal distance apart4 ,do not confuse the hemming stitch with the blind stitch1 or the damask hem4 ,join the threads by leaving a half-inch of the old thread and a half-inch of the new to be tucked under the edge of the hem and be hemmed over4 ,teachers will find the following suggestions helpful in teaching the hemming stitch3 ,put the needle in almost straight with the hem1 not at right angles to it4 ,take up as little cloth on the needle as possible2 bring the needle directly through the hem1 making one stitch of it instead of dividing the stitch as in the blind stitch4 ,crowd the point of the needle under the edge of the hem4 ,do not insert the needle a distance from the hem1 trusting to puckering it up4 ,b4 ,,damask ,,hem4 ,damask is a heavy fabric woven of heavy threads of one color in which the pattern is brought out by a change in the direction of the threads1 and when new is stiff with much dressing4 ,from the very nature of the cloth it is impossible to hem well with the flat hem4 ,the two folds of the hem are turned the desired width and the hem is then turned back flat to the cloth and creased4 ,the edge of the hem and the crease thus formed are overhanded together with fine even stitches4 ,when laundered this irons perfectly smooth and the stitches do not show on the right side4 ,do not confuse this method of hemming with the flat hem1 as each has its own use4 ,overcasting4--,overcasting is done by taking loose stitches over the raw edge of cloth from right to left to keep it from raveling4 ,the depth of the stitch depends upon the material to be overcast1 usually an eighth of an inch is sufficient4 ,the stitches should be twice as far apart as they are deep4 ,the needle is inserted from the under side of the cloth and points a little to the left1 making a slanting stitch4 ,keep the spaces even and the stitches of equal length4 ,always trim the edges before overcasting4 ,do not overcast a selvedge edge4 ,take only one stitch at a time and be careful not to draw the edge of the cloth4 ,overhanding4--,overhanding is done by sewing closely over two edges of cloth from right to left4 ,the cloth may have a folded or selvedge edge4 ,careful basting is necessary to good overhanding4 ,the needle is placed at a right angle to the seam and should point to the chest4 ,no knot is used2 a short end of the thread is left and overhanded under4 ,hold the work horizontally along the edge of the cushion of the left forefinger and the thumb4 ,do not wind the cloth over the end of the finger4 ,the stitches are straight on the under side and slanting on the top4 ,do not draw the threads tight enough to make a hard seam and also avoid a loose stitch that will not hold the edges together when the seam is opened4 ,a deep stitch is not necessary for strength and will not look well on the right side when opened4 ,to join the threads leave a half-inch of the old and a half-inch of the new1 lay them along the edge and overhand over them4 ,running4--,running is done by taking up and slipping over an equal amount of cloth4 ,running is used for seams that do not require great strength1 and also for tucking4 ,care should be taken not to draw the thread tight enough to pucker4 ,make a small knot in the thread and conceal it on the wrong side or in the folds of the cloth4 ,hold the work in the left hand between the thumb and cushion of the forefinger2 hold the needle in the work between the thumb and forefinger of the right hand4 ,use the wrist motion4 ,fasten the thread by passing the needle through to the wrong side and taking two backstitches4 ,slip ,stitch4--,see ,blind ,stitch1 page #fc4 ,stitching4--,stitching is so called because it resembles machine stitching4 ,it is also known as backstitching4 ,stitching is done by taking a stitch backward on the upper side of the cloth and a long stitch forward on the underside1 making the stitches meet on the top as in machine stitching4 ,use a small knot in beginning4 ,hold the work over the cushion of the left forefinger4 ,fasten the threads on the wrong side by taking several backstitches1 one over the other1 through one thickness of the cloth4 ,to join threads in stitching fasten securely on the wrong side and begin with a small knot1 bringing the thread through at the proper place for beginning the new stitch4 ,it is used where strength is required1 or on garments too small to go into a machine conveniently4 ,,ornamental ,,stitches4 ,applique4--,this is an ornamentation produced by cutting a design from one kind or color of cloth and placing it upon another4 ,very beautiful effects can be obtained1 with perfect harmony of color and the proper combinations of textiles4 ,the edge can be finished with the blanket1 couching1 ,kensington or chain stitch4 ,blanket ,stitch4--,the blanket stitch1 often erroneously called the buttonhole stitch1 is used for finishing raw edges4 ,it is worked from left to right1 and the buttonhole stitch from right to left4 ,the depth of the stitch and the space between stitches may be varied and will depend upon its use4 ,if the thread is not fastened and joined carefully the symmetry of the stitches will be broken4 ,a new thread must come up through the loop of the last stitch4 ,a4 ,,to ,,finish ,,the ,,edge ,,of ,,flannel ,,or ,,heavy ,,cloth3 ,insert the needle at a point the desired depth of the blanket stitch and take one or two running stitches to the edge of the cloth1 which will bring the thread in position for the first stitch4 ,make the first blanket stitch over these running stitches4 ,holding the edge of the cloth toward you insert the needle at the same point as before and bring the needle out over the thread and draw the loop thus made to the edge of the cloth4 ,repeat for successive stitches4 ,for a simple finish for a flannel edge the stitches should not be placed too close together4 ,as far apart as the depth of the stitch is a good rule1 unless greater ornamentation is desired1 when three1 five or seven stitches may radiate from one point4 ,b4 ,,for ,,embroidering ,,an ,,edge--,,straight1 ,,scalloped ,,or ,,irregular4 ,illustration3 ,,ornamental ,,stitches4 #a--,the chain stitch4 #b--,the ,kensington stitch4 #c--,two styles of feather stitching4 #d--,the herringbone stitch4 #e--,three styles of blanket stitch4 ,the stitches are the same as in ,a but should be placed close enough together so that the threads touch1 making a firm edge4 ,the embroidery should be done before the edge is cut4 ,it can then be finished in various ways4 ,the narrow edge can be turned back and whipped down on the wrong side1 or blanket stitched just over the edge with fine cotton thread4 ,on lingerie pieces the edge is not cut until after the first laundering4 ,if desired the edge can be padded before working with the blanket stitch4 ,the padding is done with a soft1 coarse thread by working along the edge with either the ,kensington or chain stitch1 or it may be heavily padded by filling the space4 ,c4 ,the blanket stitch is also used for working the loop and the buttonhole bar4 ,d4 ,see ,couching1 below4 ,e4 ,see ,lazy ,daisy or ,star ,stitch1 page #gh4 ,chain ,stitch4--,the chain stitch is used for outlining a design1 marking garments1 etc4 ,insert the needle on the line and draw the thread through to the knot4 ,insert again at the same point and take up on the needle cloth for the desired length of stitch and draw the needle out over the thread4 ,in placing the needle for succeeding stitches begin inside the preceding stitch4 ,the ,half-,chain ,stitch is very effective for stems of flowers1 or wherever a fine outline stitch can be used4 ,this is made the same as the chain stitch1 except that the needle is inserted just outside and to the right of the loop instead of in the end of the loop4 ,couching4--,couching is a coarse blanket stitch done over two or three strands of silk1 linen or cotton floss4 ,it makes an attractive finish for a hem line and also for finishing the edge in applique4 ,feather ,stitch4--,the principal use of the feather stitch being that of ornamentation requires that it shall be evenly and carefully done1 or it fails in its purpose4 ,the feather stitch consists of alternating stitches1 or groups of stitches1 slanting toward a center line4 ,the stitch may be varied greatly by the length of the stitch1 the slant of the stitch1 and the number of stitches on each side4 ,the tendency is to gradually increase the length of the stitch which must be carefully avoided1 as well as a change in the slant4 ,do not make too long a stitch1 as there is danger of catching and breaking the thread4 ,the feather stitch can be used very effectively in scroll designs for the ornamentation of sofa pillows1 cushion covers1 collars1 underwear1 etc4 ,a4 ,,single ,,feather ,,stitching4 ,work toward you1 holding the cloth over the left forefinger4 ,with a knot in the thread insert the needle from the under side a short distance to the right or left of the line the feather stitching is to follow 7which may be designated the center line7 and draw the thread through4 ,place the left thumb over the thread to hold it down1 and on the opposite side take up a slanting stitch1 the top of which is as far from the center line as the length of the stitch1 and the bottom touching the center line4 ,draw the needle out over the thread which will thus form a loop of the thread from the first stitch4 ,on the opposite side take up another slanting stitch the top of which is an equal distance from the center line and even with the bottom of the last stitch4 ,repeat for successive stitches4 ,at the end of a thread fasten by passing the needle down where the thread last came through the cloth1 thus holding the loop from the last stitch in place4 ,begin a new thread by passing the needle up through this loop4 ,b4 ,,double ,,feather ,,stitching4 ,this consists of alternating groups of two1 three or more stitches instead of single stitches4 ,the successive stitches of each group must be placed directly under the first stitch of the group4 ,french ,knot4--,bring the needle through from the under side4 ,with the needle in the right hand1 take hold of the thread with the left hand about an inch from the cloth and1 holding it taut1 wind it several times around the point of the needle4 ,return the needle to the same hole through which it came out1 and draw it back to the under side4 ,hemstitching4--,hemstitching is a method of hemming in which a few parallel threads are drawn1 the hem turned to the line thus formed1 and hemmed down with the same stitch that separates the cross threads in successive clusters4 ,there are several modifications of the hemstitch4 ,the following methods have been selected as being the best for four reasons3 7#a7 ,the thread is thrown under the edge of the hem1 and consequently wears longer and shows less4 7#b7 ,the only part of the thread showing on the right side is the loop around the cross threads4 7#c7 ,it is readily taught to children1 as it is simple1 easy to remember1 and can be given as two distinct parts4 7#d7 ,it is the natural way to hold the hem4 a4 ,drawing the threads--,measuring from the edge of the cloth1 allow twice the width of the desired hem when finished1 plus the first fold1 and draw several threads1 the exact number depending upon the texture of the fabric4 ,draw the first thread the entire length before starting the second1 as it is liable to break where the first one did4 ,the first thread being drawn1 the second will come more readily4 ,beginners are inclined to draw too many threads4 ,unless both edges are to be hemstitched the opening should be narrow enough so that the threads at the top will not loosen4 b4 ,the ,hem--,turn the first fold of the hem and baste to the exact line of the opening4 ,careful basting is indispensable to good hemstitching1 and especially so at a corner where two hems cross4 ,miter all corners of hems that are more than one-fourth of an inch in width4 c4 ,the ,stitch--,hold the cloth over the left forefinger as in ordinary hemming4 ,bury the knot by inserting the needle under the edge of the hem and drawing it through4 ,the stitch consists of two distinct parts1 7#a7 forming the loop around the cross threads1 and 7#b7 catching down to the edge of the hem3 7#a7 ,pointing the needle toward you and holding the thread under the left thumb1 take up on the needle three or four of the cross threads4 ,draw the needle out over the thread1 thus forming the loop1 and tight enough to separate the cross threads4 7#b7 ,insert the needle under the edge of the hem only and take an ordinary hemming stitch4 ,repeat #a and #b for the next stitch4 ,herringbone ,stitch4--,the herringbone or catch stitch is a cross stitch used to finish the raw edges of flannel or heavy material4 ,it serves both the purpose of overcasting over a raw edge and that of hemming4 ,it is used on raw edged hems to avoid the ridge formed by the first fold of a hem1 on the flannel patch and for finishing the flannel seam1 which may be pressed open and both single edges herringbone stitched1 or both folded to one side and finished over the double edge4 ,in most cases the open seam looks better4 ,the stitch consists of single1 alternating running stitches made first to the right and then to the left1 working from you instead of toward you as in ordinary running4 ,the thread being carried across from one stitch to another1 gives the appearance of a cross stitch4 ,the stitches on each side must be in straight rows1 with the outer row just over the edge of the flannel4 ,the stitch should be no deeper than necessary to prevent pulling out4 ,a good rule for beginners is to make the top of each stitch even with the bottom of the last stitch4 ,point the needle toward you in making the stitch1 but work away from you4 ,the edge of the flannel must be kept smooth4 ,this being a cross stitch the thread of one part of the stitch is on top and the other underneath4 ,be sure that this is regular1 those slanting in the same direction should be always either to the top or to the bottom4 ,kensington ,outline ,stitch4--,this stitch is used to follow the line of a design for ornamentation4 ,to avoid the knot1 when starting begin half an inch from the end of the line to be followed1 and put in three or four running stitches1 bringing the thread out at the proper place for starting4 ,turn the cloth around1 holding it over the left forefinger1 and work from you4 ,pointing the needle toward you1 take a short running stitch directly on the line keeping the thread always on the right side of the needle1 except on a line curving sharply to the left when the thread will fall more naturally to the left side4 ,the thread being carried from one stitch to another gives the effect of a long diagonal stitch on the right side and running stitches on the wrong4 ,the length of the stitch will be determined by the size of the thread1 and the character of the line to be covered1 a curved line requiring a shorter stitch than a straight one4 ,lazy ,daisy or ,star ,stitch4--,this is a variation of the blanket stitch4 ,insert the needle at the point desired for the center of the flower and draw the thread through4 ,insert again at the same place and take up the desired length of stitch on the needle1 drawing the needle out over the thread4 ,pass the needle down through the cloth at the point where it came out1 but on the other side of the loop1 thus forming a second loop at the end of the petal to hold it in place1 and return the needle again to the center of the flower4 ,make as many petals as desired and finish with the ,french knot in the center of the flower4 ,this stitch also makes a pretty star1 using six points and finishing without the ,french knot4 ,,miscellaneous4 ,bands4--,a band is a straight piece of cloth used to finish garments at the neck1 wrist or waist4 ,it may be sewed to a straight1 gathered or pleated edge4 ,a band cut with the warp is stronger than one cut with the woof4 ,a4 ,,hemmed ,,band4 ,see description of the ,gathering1 page #fh4 ,gather as desired4 ,place the right sides of the cloth and band together and baste just above the gathering thread1 taking care that the gathers are arranged perfectly even4 ,stitch just below the gathering thread4 ,turn in a fourth of an inch at the ends and along the other side of the band4 ,fold the band over just covering the gathers1 and baste4 ,hem or stitch along the edge1 overhanding the ends of the band4 ,b4 ,,overhand ,,band4 ,see description of ,gauging1 page #fi4 ,make the band by turning in one-fourth of an inch all around1 folding and basting the edges together4 ,overhand the ends of the band4 ,the whipping of the full part to the band will be sufficient to hold the two sides of the band together4 ,turn back the raw edges of the piece to be gathered one-half inch and gather once1 twice or three times as desired4 ,pin to the band and overhand1 taking a stitch for each pleat of the gathers4 ,fasten all bands very securely4 ,bias4--,a bias is a diagonal cut4 ,to cut a true bias1 fold over the corner of the cloth so that the warp and woof threads are parallel4 ,a choice bias is a true bias1 having the twill of the cloth at right angles to the cut4 ,great care should be taken in measuring and cutting bias strips to have them the same width throughout the length4 ,also avoid stretching after cutting4 a4 ,to cut a bias facing1 bias binding or fold1 measure in the desired width on the true bias at a number of points4 ,draw a line1 crease in a fold or baste where the facing is to be cut off4 b4 ,to put on a bias facing1 place the edge of the strip1 right sides together1 even with the edge of the cloth to be faced1 baste and stitch4 ,turn the facing back exactly in the seam and baste along the edge so that the facing will not show on the right side4 ,turn the fold at the top1 baste and hem4 ,a bias facing for a curve should be cut narrow enough so that by stretching one edge of the facing it will lie perfectly smooth when finished4 c4 ,to join two bias strips--,cut the ends to be joined straight with the threads of the cloth and place the right sides together1 slipping the top piece past the under piece the width of a seam1 but having the top edges even4 ,stitch where the facings cross1 open the seam and crease2 or1 after trimming1 a seam may be turned back at the end of each piece and the folded edges overhanded together4 ,cloth4--,a fabric woven of fibers1 either animal or vegetable4 ,the edges of cloth are known as the selvedge1 the threads running lengthwise the warp1 and those crossing the warp from selvedge to selvedge the woof4 ,the selvedge should be trimmed off1 as it is hard to sew through and draws up when wet4 ,eyelets and ,loops4--,an eyelet is a small hole made and worked in a garment to receive a cord1 stud or loop of a button4 ,punch the hole with a stiletto1 pushing the threads apart rather than breaking them4 ,overhand closely from right to left with short even stitches4 ,a large eyelet may be cut out and worked around with the buttonhole stitch4 ,a blind loop is made in place of the eye to receive a hook4 ,put three or four long stitches in the same place beginning at the left1 so that the thread will be at the proper place for working the loop with the blanket stitch4 ,joining and ,fastening ,thread4--,when sewing1 care should be taken in joining threads4 ,the manner in which it is done depends upon the stitch in use4 ,in hemming1 leave a half-inch of the old and a half-inch of the new thread1 tuck both under the hem and continue hemming over the threads4 ,the same plan is followed in overhanding4 ,in the blanket stitch1 feather stitch1 herringbone1 chain and buttonhole stitch the new thread must come out through the last stitch4 ,thoughtful attention should be given to the fastening of threads1 as careful1 painstaking work may soon be rendered useless by the loosening of the thread from the end4 ,after fastening securely clip off all threads that the work may be not only strong1 but neat4 ,the usual fastening consists of several backstitches taken in the same place4 ,mitered ,corner4--,two hems crossing at right angles may be finished either with the square or the mitered corner4 ,to miter a corner1 turn and crease a quarter-inch fold on both sides4 ,turn the second fold of the hem the desired width on both sides and crease4 ,open out the corner and place a dot where the inner creases cross4 ,place a second dot a quarter of an inch from the first toward the corner4 ,through this second point draw a line passing from side to side1 across the corner1 being careful that the line is an equal distance from the corner on both sides4 ,cut off the corner on this line4 ,fold both hems again on the creases before made and pin the hem on one side in place4 ,make a pin hole as near the exact point where the hems cross as possible1 passing through both hems4 ,fold in the bias edge on the hem that is not pinned down1 exactly from the pin hole to the corner1 causing the edges of the two hems to meet at an angle of forty-five degrees4 ,patterns4--,with the varied1 complex and ever-changing styles of fashion1 individual pattern drafting 7except for a very simple article7 is impracticable1 usually resulting in commonplace garments and involving useless time and labor4 ,for the trifling sum of ten or fifteen cents reliable1 up-to-date patterns can be secured which are cut to established measurements by a fashion expert4 ,a good needlewoman supplies herself with a good pattern and then cuts accurately1 bastes carefully1 and finishes neatly1 and in nearly all cases1 results will be satisfactory4 ,plackets4--,a placket is an opening made in a garment4 ,there are several ways of finishing an opening1 but in all cases1 except when the gusset is used1 the underside should extend some distance under the top to prevent gaping4 ,a4 ,a ,,placket ,,with ,a ,,continuous ,,binding4 ,this is the placket used on children's drawers1 night shirts1 under garments1 etc4 ,cut the opening the desired length4 ,cut the facing with the warp a little more than twice the length of the opening and twice the desired width when finished1 plus one-fourth inch1 or more1 allowed for seams4 ,the following are the successive steps for making the placket3 a4 ,fold the cloth1 right sides together1 in a line with the opening4 b4 ,double the facing across the warp1 through the center1 wrong sides together4 c4 ,slip this between the folds of the cloth so that the fold of the facing will just come to the end of the opening4 ,this will bring the right side of facing to the right side of the cloth4 d4 ,baste the facing to the cloth down one side and up the other side of the opening4 e4 ,stitch with an eighth of an inch seam1 which will render unavoidable a small pleat at the end of the opening the width of the seam4 f4 ,crease the facing back over the opening exactly in the seam4 g4 ,turn an eighth of an inch fold the length of the facing down the other side4 h4 ,fold this over the seam to the stitching1 baste1 and hem4 i4 ,at the top of the opening fold the right-hand facing back and stitch along the edge to hold in place4 ,b4 ,a ,,placket ,,with ,,an ,,extension ,,hem ,,on ,,one ,,side ,,and ,a ,,flat ,,facing ,,on ,,the ,,other4 ,this is the placket used on dress skirts1 petticoats and carefully tailored garments4 ,follow the directions for the successive steps for making ,placket ,a through g1 as the two plackets are the same to this point4 ,the left side of the facing will consist of an extension hem the same as in ,placket ,a1 the only difference in the plackets being the manner of finishing the right side or top facing4 h4 ,after turning the fold the length of the facing1 place the edge of this fold to the stitching on the other side of the seam1 and crease the facing through the center the long way1 as in ,placket ,a4 i4 ,as the right side is to be hemmed down as a facing1 it is desirable to cut out one thickness of the cloth1 leaving1 of course1 the quarter-inch inside the long crease1 and also at the cross fold1 at the end of the opening as the first fold on the facing4 j4 ,baste this facing flat to the cloth1 and hem4 k4 ,stitch once across the top facing only1 just at the bottom end of the opening4 ,c4 ,a ,,finish ,,for ,a ,,shirt ,,sleeve ,,or ,,nightgown ,,opening4 ,as this consists of an extra piece which extends over the opening1 it is necessary to allow for this in cutting1 so that the middle of this piece will come in the center when finished4 ,when cutting this opening in a nightgown1 cut to the right of the center one-half the width the facing is to be when finished4 ,the following are the successive steps for making the nightgown opening3 a4 ,cut the opening the desired length4 ,cut the facing in two pieces1 one a little more than twice the length of the opening1 and the other the length of the opening plus the width of the facing1 both pieces to be the desired width plus the allowance for seams4 7,these two pieces will be designated the long and the short facings47 b4 ,place the short facing to the right-hand side of the opening1 right sides of cloth together and even at the top4 ,pin in place4 c4 ,place the long facing to the back of this same side with the right side of facing to the wrong side of the cloth1 thus having the three thicknesses of cloth together4 ,pin in place and baste a quarter of an inch from the edge4 ,stitch an eighth of an inch seam4 d4 ,the long facing is a continuous facing1 the same as in ,plackets ,a and ,b4 ,baste up the other side and stitch1 the seam being on the right side of the cloth4 e4 ,crease both facings open in the seams4 ,turn in a fold on the other side of the short facing and turn the end to a square point4 f4 ,turn a fold the length of the long facing so that it matches the width of the short piece4 g4 ,baste the two facings together and the flat facing to the cloth4 h4 ,stitch around the short facing and twice across it at the end of the opening4 ,stitch or hem the under side of the flat facing4 ,d4 ,,the ,,gusset4 ,this method of finishing an opening is sometimes used on drawers and night-shirts instead of ,placket ,a4 ,the following are the successive steps for making the gusset3 a4 ,cut the opening the desired length4 b4 ,hem both sides with a very narrow hem running to a point at the end of the opening4 c4 ,cut a piece of cloth one and one-half inches square4 ,on this square fold down one corner three-fourths of an inch on the sides and cut it off4 ,turn a fold one-eighth of an inch all around this piece4 ,place the corner which is opposite the diagonal cut to the middle of this cut and crease4 d4 ,to sew the gusset in1 place the apex of the triangle to the end of the opening and overhand on the wrong side to the crease before made4 e4 ,fold over the remaining part to the wrong side1 baste and hem4 ,stitch along the fold of the gusset to strengthen it4 ,illustration3 ,,formation ,,of ,,gusset4 ,putting in ,sleeves4--,after trimming the arm hole1 measure one inch back from the shoulder seam and mark with a pin4 ,fold the garment at the arm hole with this pin at the top of the fold and place another directly opposite it4 ,call this point ,a4 ,remove the first pin to avoid confusion4 ,for a sleeve for an adult1 measure from the shoulder seam five inches on the front and mark with a pin4 ,call this point ,b4 ,measure from the shoulder seam three inches on the back and mark with a pin4 ,call this point ,c4 ,with the sleeve right side out place the under seam of the sleeve at ,a and pin together at this point4 ,the gathers are to come at the top of the sleeve between ,b and ,c4 ,for misses and children the measurements should be decreased proportionately4 ,measure the sleeve on the arm-hole and cut small notches at ,b and ,c4 ,gather the sleeve between these notches one-fourth of an inch from the edge1 with a strong thread a little longer than the distance to be gathered4 ,put in a second gathering one-eighth of an inch from the first4 ,put in place at points ,a ,b and ,c2 draw up the gathering threads to the proper length and fasten by winding around a pin4 ,arrange the gathers between ,b and ,c1 pushing them a little closer together in front of the shoulder seam4 ,hold the inside of the sleeve next to you and1 beginning at ,b1 baste first around the plain part1 then the gathered part4 ,stitch inside the basting and bind the seam4 ,seams4--,a seam is formed by sewing together two pieces of cloth4 ,there are several different methods of joining them4 ,those known as the raw seams may be joined by stitching1 half-back stitching1 overhanding or the combination stitch4 ,the closed or finished seams are known as the ,french ,fell1 ,french ,seam1 ,hemmed ,seam1 ,flannel ,seam and the ,bound ,seam4 ,no garment should be finished with a raw seam1 which is only properly used when covered with a lining1 or as the first step in one of the finished seams4 ,a4 ,,french ,,fell4 ,place the two pieces to be joined1 right sides together1 edges even and baste one-fourth of an inch from the edge4 ,sew with the combination stitch 7or machine stitching7 three-eighths of an inch from the edge4 ,trim three-sixteenths of an inch from the under side of the seam and crease the upper side of the seam over this4 7,in hand sewing there is a long stitch on the under side4 ,be sure to trim from this side so that the short stitch comes on the top47 ,on the right side of the garment crease carefully and baste along the edge of the seam to prevent the fullness which beginners are so liable to have over the ,french ,fell on the right side4 ,turn to the wrong side1 baste the seam flat to the cloth1 and hem4 ,b4 ,,french ,,seam4 ,place together the wrong sides of the pieces to be joined1 and baste one-fourth of an inch from the edge4 ,with the running stitch sew one-eighth of an inch from the edge4 ,carefully trim off the ravelings1 fold the right sides together and crease exactly in the seam1 baste and stitch the seam1 taking care that no ravelings can be seen and that the seam is perfectly smooth on the right side4 ,c4 ,,hemmed ,,seam3 ,this is used for joining thin material1 lace1 etc4 ,on one piece fold an eighth of an inch seam 7or more1 if necessary7 to the right side of the cloth1 and on the other piece fold an eighth of an inch seam to the wrong side4 ,place the right sides of the two pieces together with the raw edge of one piece under and to the folded edge of the other4 ,baste this fold down over the raw edge sewing through the three thicknesses of cloth4 ,fold over in the crease and baste through the four thicknesses4 ,stitch1 or hem by hand1 along the edge of the seam on both sides of the cloth4 ,d4 ,,flannel ,,seam3 ,the flannel seam is used on material so thick that it is necessary to finish over a raw edge1 instead of with a seam involving several thicknesses of cloth4 ,place together the right sides of the two pieces to be joined and baste one-eighth of an inch from the edge4 ,stitch one-fourth of an inch from the edge and remove the bastings4 ,trim the seams smooth1 open and baste flat to the cloth4 ,herringbone stitch over the raw edge of both sides of the seam4 ,one side of the herringbone stitch should come just over the raw edge of the flannel4 ,the edges must be kept smooth1 and unless the flannel ravels easily1 the herringbone stitch should be not over one-eighth of an inch deep and close together4 ,this stitch is used also on the flannel patch4 ,e4 ,,bound ,,seam3 ,seams may be bound with the two parts of the seam together1 or they may be pressed open and bound separately4 ,this may be done with a bias strip1 binding ribbon or tape4 a4 ,binding the entire seam--,place together the two right sides of the pieces to be joined and baste one-eighth of an inch from the edge4 ,place the bias binding 7three-fourths of an inch wide7 with the wrong side of the cloth up and the edge of the binding one-eighth of an inch from the edge of the seam1 and baste in place4 ,stitch through the three thicknesses of cloth a quarter of an inch from the edge4 ,turn in one-eighth of an inch on the other side of the binding and hem it down just above the stitching on the other side of the seam4 ,this method of binding is used on the arm-holes of garments or wherever it is not feasible to open the seam and bind separately4 b4 ,the ,open ,bound ,seam--,prepare the seam as above without the bias binding4 ,trim and press the seam open4 ,double the binding ribbon through the center and crease4 ,place the raw edge of the seam to the fold of the ribbon and run along the edge1 catching through to the under fold4 ,tape may be used for binding1 but must be basted on first and hemmed down4 ,sewing on ,buttons4--,there are two important requirements for sewing on buttons--to put in sufficient thread1 and to fasten this thread securely that it may not loosen from the end4 ,in sewing flat buttons on coats1 jackets1 etc41 place a small button on the under side and sew through it to avoid having the stitches show on the under side4 a4 ,the ,loop or ,shank ,button--,place the button in position with the loop at right angles to the edge of the cloth4 ,hold the button with the left hand and overhand the loop to the cloth4 ,pass the thread to the under side and fasten4 b4 ,four-,hole ,button--,in sewing on flat buttons insert the needle from the right side and back in order to hide the knot under the button4 ,place the button in position and hold a pin across the button for the purpose of lengthening the stitches4 ,put in five or six stitches diagonally across the button and over the pin4 ,change the position of the pin and repeat4 ,slip the pin out1 pass the needle through the cloth only1 and wind the thread around the threads between the button and the cloth4 ,pass the needle through the cloth and fasten securely4 c4 ,two-,hole ,button--,place the button so that the stitches will come at right angles to the edge of the cloth1 with the pin across the button4 ,proceed as with the four-hole button4 ,sewing on ,hooks and ,eyes4--,in sewing hooks and eyes on a garment it is best1 where practicable1 to cover the ends with the lining of the garment or with a piece of tape4 ,in sewing them on the edge of a hem or facing turn the edge of the hem back over the ends of the hooks and eyes and hem it down4 ,where they are to be covered they should be strongly overhanded to the garment first4 ,when covering is not feasible place the hook or eye in position and buttonhole around the top1 beginning at the right-hand side and inserting the needle under and up through the hole1 throwing the thread around the needle as in the buttonhole stitch4 ,the hook should be sewed down at the point before breaking the thread4 ,the worked loop is often used in place of the metal eye4 ,for this purpose cut a stiff pointed piece of cardboard the length of the desired loop and work the loop over this1 when the cardboard can be easily slipped out4 ,the loop is worked from left to right with the blanket stitch the same as the bar of the buttonhole4 ,sewing on ,lace4--,when sewing lace to an edge always hold the lace next to you4 ,lace may be put on straight or gathered4 ,at the top of most laces will be found a coarse thread woven into the lace for the purpose of gathering4 ,before drawing this up divide the lace and the edge upon which it is to be placed into halves1 quarters or eighths1 depending upon the length1 and pin1 with right sides together1 at points of division4 ,then draw up the thread1 arrange the gathers even1 and overhand to the edge with fine even stitches4 ,if the gathering thread is not in the lace1 put it in and proceed as above4 ,if the lace is to be put on plain hold it loosely to the edge and overhand4 ,a4 ,,sewing ,,lace ,,around ,a ,,corner3 ,when sewing the lace on plain to round a corner1 overhand to a point as far from the corner as the width of the lace4 7,this point may be designated ,a1 and a point an equal distance from the corner on the other side ,b47 ,from ,a measure on the lace twice its width and pin at the corner4 ,allow the same fullness on the other side and pin at ,b4 ,continue overhanding from ,b1 leaving the corner until later1 when the gathering thread will be put in1 gathers arranged and the lace overhanded to the edge4 ,if the lace is wide baste it in place at the corners before overhanding4 ,when sewing gathered lace to an edge1 to round a corner proceed as above with this exception3 ,the same fullness must be allowed on the corner that is allowed on the straight edge1 in addition to that required to carry the lace around the corner without drawing4 ,for example3 ,if one-half the length of the lace is allowed for fullness on the straight edge1 at the corner allow two and one-half times the width of the lace instead of twice its width4 ,b4 ,,sewing ,,two ,,ends ,,of ,,lace ,,together3 ,the manner of sewing two ends of lace together will depend upon the kind of lace to be joined1 the pattern1 strength1 etc4 ,the first aim to be considered is to have the joining strong enough so that it will not pull apart4 ,the second is to join it so that it will show as little as possible4 ,several methods are suggested3 a4 ,lace made up of units can be easily joined by overhanding these units together4 b4 ,if the pattern permits1 cut the lace with the pattern1 lay one edge over the other and buttonhole over each raw edge with fine thread4 c4 ,sew the lace right sides together1 in a narrow seam4 ,lay the seam flat and buttonhole over the raw edge and at the same time down to the lace4 d4 ,turn a narrow fold on one piece to the right side and on the other piece to the wrong side1 slip one under the other and hem down the two edges as in the hemmed seam4 ,tucking4--,crease the first tuck where desired4 ,for the second tuck measure from the first and allow twice the width of the tuck plus the desired space between4 ,repeat for the successive tucks4 ,,putting ,a ,,ruffle ,,into ,a ,,hem-,,tuck4 ,this makes an excellent finish for the bottom of underskirts1 petticoats and drawers4 ,measure up from the bottom twice the width of the desired hem plus one-fourth of an inch for the seam and crease for a tuck4 ,stitch the tuck4 ,this will leave the raw edge extending one-fourth of an inch below the edge of the tuck4 ,place the ruffle along this edge1 wrong sides together1 and baste in a quarter-inch seam4 ,baste the tuck over the seam and stitch along the edge4 ,,chapter ,,viii4 ,,textile ,,fibers ,,and ,,fabrics4 ,the fibers used in the manufacture of cloth are of two different natures1 vegetable and animal4 ,the vegetable fibers may be divided into three distinct classes3 #a4 ,the cotton1 having soft1 lint-like fibers1 one-half to two inches in length1 is obtained from the seed-pods1 called bolls4 #b4 ,the fibers from flax1 hemp and jute are flexible and of soft texture1 ten to one hundred inches in length4 #c4 ,the hard or leaf fibers1 including manila1 sisal1 istle and the ,new ,zealand fibers1 all having rather stiff woody fibers1 one to ten feet long1 are obtained from the leaf or the leaf stem4 ,the animal fibers are obtained from the wool bearing animals such as common sheep1 ,angora and ,cashmere goats and the hair of the camel4 ,the silk fiber is obtained from the cocoon of a caterpillar4 ,,silk4 ,silk is the most beautiful of all fabrics4 ,it is made from the fiber produced by the silk-worm which is a species of caterpillar4 ,so perfectly does this little worm do its work that no spinning is required4 ,this fiber1 placed under a microscope1 looks like a glass thread4 ,it is the light playing along this smooth surface that gives to silk its beautiful luster4 ,silk first came to ,europe from ,china where the industry had been cultivated for many centuries4 ,it is said this was begun by a woman1 the wife of an ,emperor1 in the year #bfjj ,b4 ,c41 and the culture of the mulberry1 upon the leaves of which the silk-worm feeds and thrives1 forty years later4 ,several unsuccessful attempts have been made to introduce the cultivation of the silk industry into the ,united ,states4 ,as the business requires a large amount of cheap labor for a short time during the year1 it has not as yet been found profitable4 ,machines are of little use1 except in reeling the silk4 ,the moth lays its eggs1 about five hundred in number1 in ,august or ,september1 and they hatch the following ,may1 just at the time the mulberry comes into leaf4 ,these little caterpillars are hatched and fed in-doors1 and they eat like hungry school-boys for a month or more1 until they are about three inches long4 ,at this period they sicken and cast their skins1 after which they begin eating as eagerly as ever4 ,in about a month1 however1 the worms stop eating altogether1 crawl up on the twigs which are placed on large trays1 and begin to spin their cocoons4 ,there are two little openings in the head of the worm1 from which comes two thread-like substances resembling glue1 from which the silk is made4 ,these stick close together and form a flat thread4 ,the silk-worm by moving its head about1 wraps this thread around its body1 wrapping from the outside inward1 until it has completely inclosed itself in this silken blanket4 ,then it goes to sleep4 ,if left to itself it would in two or three weeks bore its way out of this silky covering and come forth a feeble white moth4 ,but as the cutting of this hole in the cocoon injures the fibers1 only just enough for the next year's crop are allowed to come out4 ,the rest are stifled in a hot oven4 ,after the outsides of the cocoons are removed they are placed in hot water which softens the gum that is in the silk so that it can be wound off on reels4 ,the silk fiber is all in one piece1 and about one thousand feet long4 ,there is always a portion of the cocoon which is too tangled to be wound1 and it is made into what is called spun silk4 ,spun silk is carded like wool4 ,the removal of the natural gum1 by boiling in strong soap suds1 effects a considerable loss in weight1 the cleansing process1 however1 causing it to take on very beautiful tints4 ,this loss has led to the weighting of silk by mixing cheaper materials with it4 ,an artificial silk is made from the fiber of the ramie plant which grows in ,china and ,malay4 ,this is sometimes known as ,china silk4 ,mercerized cotton has also been treated so as to very successfully imitate silk4 ,,cotton4 ,the ,plant4--,cotton is one of the most important vegetable fibers1 distinguished from all other fibers by the peculiar twist it possesses which makes it especially adapted to spinning4 ,it is cultivated between the twentieth and thirty-fifth parallels north of the equator4 ,this is known as the cotton belt4 ,within this belt lie the cotton districts of the ,united ,states1 ,northern ,mexico1 ,egypt1 ,northern ,africa1 ,asia and ,india4 ,although cotton is cultivated mainly for the fiber surrounding the seeds1 its by-products1 the seeds and stalks1 are of great commercial importance1 being manufactured into oil-meal1 oil cakes1 cottolene1 etc4 ,there are about fifty species of the cotton plant but only a few are cultivated1 the best known and most commonly used being the ,american ,upland1 which is now cultivated in many parts of the world4 ,the two varieties grown in the ,united ,states are the ,sea ,island and the ,upland4 ,the former is much more valuable because its fiber is longer4 ,it is cultivated on the islands and low-lying coasts of ,south ,carolina1 ,georgia and ,florida4 ,the latter1 while not so valuable1 furnishes most of the crop and is grown over a wide area4 ,the plant grows from seven to ten feet high4 ,the leaves are sprinkled with small black dots4 ,the hollyhock-like flowers are white and yellow when they first open1 but two days later they turn a dull red4 ,surrounding the flowers are three or four cup-shaped green leaves which together are called squares4 ,these remain after the petals have dropped1 to serve as a protection to the bolls4 ,cotton thrives best in a rich1 deep soil with a hot1 steamy atmosphere4 ,it should have plenty of moisture while growing and a dryer period during the ripening and gathering of the crop4 ,the most of the cotton crop is planted by the twentieth of ,may4 ,six weeks after it begins blossoming the first bolls are ready for picking4 ,this is done by hand1 and as the bolls do not all ripen at the same time1 it is necessary to go over the field many times1 and the picking often lasts until the middle of ,december4 ,the cotton is gathered into baskets hung from the shoulders of the pickers4 ,the ,preparation of the ,fiber4--,after the cotton is picked it is taken to the gin which separates the fiber from the seed4 ,until the cotton gin was invented in #agic1 by a ,connecticut teacher1 then living in ,georgia1 the cultivation of cotton was not profitable1 as one person could only clear the seeds from five or six pounds a day4 ,this machine has revolving teeth which drag the cotton between parallel wires1 leaving the seeds behind4 ,with this machine a slave could clean about a thousand pounds in a day4 ,this gave a wonderful impetus to the cotton industry1 and its cultivation increased enormously4 ,after the seeds are removed the cotton is put up into bales weighing about five hundred pounds each1 and is then ready for shipping4 ,when these bales are received at the factory the cotton is so closely matted together that it must be broken up or loosened4 ,this is done in the blending room where it is first run through heavily weighted and spiked rollers which pull the cotton apart4 ,it is then blended or mixed to make it of uniform quality4 ,after this it is taken to the carding room4 ,here the fibers are drawn parallel to one another and bits of leaves and unripe fibers removed1 when it is put through the drawing frame1 consisting of a pair of rollers4 ,these parallel1 untwisted fibers are now called slivers4 ,from the drawing frame these slivers go to the slubbing machines where it is lightly twisted and wound on bobbins4 ,this process is repeated on similar machines each one drawing the thread out and twisting it a little more1 until it is finally ready for spinning4 ,spinning4--,two systems of spinning are in use at the present time1 ring spinning and self-acting mule spinning4 ,the former is done mostly by women and children1 and produces a hard1 round irregular yarn4 ,the latter machines1 operated only by men and very strong women1 are complicated1 but produce an exceedingly soft and fine yarn4 ,the thread used for sewing and for the manufacture of lace is made by twisting several fine threads together4 ,sewing thread is usually composed of from six to nine threads spun separately and then twisted into one4 ,thread is sometimes passed very rapidly through a flame which burns off the fuzz making it very smooth4 ,weaving4--,three operations are necessary in the manufacture of cloth2 ,first1 the separation of the warp threads on the loom1 so that the shuttle containing the woof can pass through4 ,second1 the movement of the shuttle1 back and forth1 among the warp threads4 ,third1 the beating up the woof4 ,,flax4 ,the fibers of flax are spun and woven into a fabric called linen4 ,this is one of the most ancient industries known to man4 ,linen is often mentioned in the ,bible and the ancient ,egyptians wrapped their mummies in this fabric4 ,it is said that the finest linen of the present day looks coarse beside that from the ,egyptian looms in the days of the ,pharaohs4 ,the ,hebrew and ,egyptian priests wore garments made of this fine linen4 ,the ,plant4--,flax grows from two to three feet high1 and has a blue flower4 ,a field of flax in blossom is very beautiful4 ,while it is grown extensively in many parts of ,europe1 ,asia and ,america1 the soil and climate of ,ireland1 ,france and the ,netherlands are especially adapted to its growth1 and it is in these countries that it reaches its greatest perfection4 ,the fiber of the bark is the part of the plant used in the manufacture of cloth4 ,linseed oil is expressed from the seed4 ,the ,preparation of the ,fiber4--,when the plant is ripe it is pulled up by the roots and beaten to loosen the seeds which are then shaken out4 ,next the stems are steeped in soft water and afterward allowed to ferment4 ,they are then dried and passed between fluted rollers which breaks the woody part of the stems which are again beaten to remove this woody part from the fiber4 ,the fiber is then made into bundles and sent to the mill to be spun1 where it is first roughly sorted1 the longest and best portions being separated from the short raveled ones4 ,these inferior portions are called tow4 ,the treatment of the flax fiber for spinning is similar to that of the cotton 7page #ib71 being drawn and twisted and drawn out again1 repeating this process several times4 ,spinning4--,coarse and heavy yarns are spun dry1 but fine yarn must be spun wet4 ,some varieties of velvet and velveteen are made from linen4 ,much of the so-called linen cloth of the present day is mixed with cotton or jute4 ,the principles of weaving are the same as that of the cotton4 ,see page #ic4 ,for many centuries the weaving of linen was conducted as a household industry4 ,the first attempt to manufacture it on a large scale was in ,england in #abec4 ,it is now one of the national industries4 ,linen is bleached after it is woven4 ,in the olden times it was spread upon the grass1 or lawn1 and the action of the sun1 air and moisture whitened it1 and for this reason it was called lawn1 and it is still so designated4 ,in the modern process of bleaching1 the linen is first singed by being passed rapidly over hot cylinders which makes the cloth smooth4 ,it is then boiled in lime water1 washed and afterwards scoured in a solution of sulphuric acid1 exposed to the air for a time and again scoured4 ,lastly1 it is boiled in soda-lye water and dried over hot tin rollers4 ,the gloss on linen is made by first mangling1 then starching1 and finally running it between heavy rollers4 ,linen is chiefly manufactured in ,france1 ,belgium1 ,germany1 ,england and the ,united ,states4 ,france is noted for the finest kinds of lawn and cambric1 while ,ireland excels in the production of table linen4 ,the largest portion of the sheeting and toweling is made in ,scotland4 ,the linen manufactures of the ,united ,states consist principally of toweling and twine4 ,,wool4 ,wool is the fleecy covering of sheep4 ,it is distinguished by its waviness and the scaly covering of the fibers4 ,the scales are more pointed and protrude more than those of hair4 ,this gives it a tendency to mat or felt4 ,the waviness of wool is due to the spiral structure of the fibers4 ,next to cotton1 wool is the most extensively used of all the textile fibers4 ,the ,romans developed a breed of sheep having wool of exceeding fineness1 and later introduced their sheep into ,spain4 ,here they were still further improved1 and it was not many years until ,spain led the world in the production of wool4 ,the fine wooled ,merino sheep originated here4 ,australia and the ,united ,states are also great wool-producing countries4 ,classification4--,there are three classes of wool1 classified according to the length1 fineness and felting qualities3 #a4 ,the carding or clothing wool4 #b4 ,the combing or worsted wool4 #c4 ,the blanket or carpet wool4 ,wool on different parts of the same animal varies greatly1 that on the shoulders being the finest and most even4 ,all unwashed wool contains a fatty or greasy matter called yolk or suint4 ,this keeps the fiber from matting together and also protects the fleece from injury4 ,the yolk must be removed before the wool is manufactured into cloth4 ,when the fleece is cut from the body of the sheep it sticks together so that it can be spread out like the hide of an animal1 and each fleece is tied in a separate bundle4 ,a few years ago sheep shearing was done by hand4 ,this was a busy time1 especially on large ranches where thousands of sheep were to be sheared and it required a large crew to do the work4 ,it is now accomplished with much less time1 labor and expense by machinery4 ,alpaca and ,mohair are classed as wools1 but the former is produced by the ,alpaca goat and the latter by the ,angora goat4 ,cashmere wool comes from the ,cashmere goat1 found in ,thibet1 and is very costly1 as only the finest parts of the fleece are used4 ,in the far eastern countries beautiful1 costly fabrics are made from the long hair of the camel4 ,preparation4--,when wool comes to the factory in the raw state it must be scoured4 ,this is done by passing it through machines containing strong soap suds1 and afterwards rinsing it4 ,after the wool is dry it is mixed or blended4 ,mixing is an operation of great importance and is done to make the wool of uniform quality4 ,portions of wool from different lots1 qualities and colors are placed in alternate layers and blended4 ,if it is desired to mix other materials with the wool1 such as silk1 cotton or shoddy1 it is added at this time4 ,the wool is harsh to the touch after it has been scoured1 owing to the removal of the yolk4 ,to restore its natural softness it is slightly sprinkled with oil during the process of mixing4 ,carding and ,spinning4--,the process of carding produces a thread having fibers projecting loosely from the main thread in little ends which form the nap of the finished cloth4 ,after it is carded it is wound on spools and is ready for the spinning4 ,in spinning the threads are held together by their scales and the waviness of the fiber which prevents them from untwisting4 ,another valuable feature of wool is its elasticity1 which makes it soft to the touch and this is retained in the manufactured goods4 ,woolens4--,there are two classes of woolen textiles1 woolens and worsteds1 depending upon the character of the fiber used1 and the treatment to which it is subjected4 ,the shorter varieties of wool are used in woolens1 while the long fibers are combed out and used for the worsteds4 ,in making woolen yarns the wool is simply carded and very loosely spun1 but in making worsted thread the wool is combed out and hard twisted4 ,owing to the nap of the woolen goods the weaving is scarcely visible1 but in the manufacture of worsteds the weave is evident and a great variety of designs is possible4 ,a variety of effects can also be produced by the character of the finish4 ,among the principal varieties are3 #a4 ,the dress face finish1 such as broadcloth and beaver4 #b4 ,the velvet finish4 #c4 ,the ,scotch or ,melton finish4 #d4 ,the bare face finish1 which has the nap completely sheared off4 ,while the finish may differ1 the general treatment of the cloth is practically the same4 ,the first step is called pulling1 when the cloth is soaked in hot water and pulled by a pulling machine4 ,it is soaked1 pulled and beaten until it is only half its original length and breadth4 ,it is then rinsed and stretched on a frame where it will dry without a wrinkle4 ,at this time the nap is raised by beating the cloth with the spike head of the teasel plant or its substitute4 ,the pile or nap is then trimmed so as to present a uniform surface1 when it is wound tightly around a huge drum and immersed in hot water4 ,finally it is pressed in a hydraulic press1 during which time steam is forced through it4 ,this is to give solidity and smoothness to the cloth and also to add luster to the finished fabric4 ,,chapter ,,ix4 ,,dress1 ,,and ,,its ,,relation ,,to ,,art4 ,art education should bring to every girl a greater appreciation of beauty and a sufficient knowledge to enable her to beautify her home and to dress herself becomingly4 ,this is the real applied art or applied design of which we have heard much but seen little4 ,the power and skill necessary to originate an intricate and artistic design1 and a technical knowledge of color-blending are worth something to the individual1 but the ability to apply this knowledge later to the decoration of her home and to the selection of her own wardrobe is of vastly greater importance4 ,an artist who paints the human figure1 draws and erases and draws again1 and yet again1 that the contour of the form he creates may be right in proportion and graceful in line4 ,he studies his coloring1 he compares1 rejects and blends for a particular shade or tint that makes for complete harmony4 ,no discordant note of color nor turn of line that detracts from the beauty of the whole is allowed4 ,and there are artistic makers-of-garments who put into the costumes they create the same thought and care that the artist spends upon his canvas1 but the prices of both are within the reach of very few4 ,nearly every woman must plan her own wardrobe and choose the furnishings for her home and this is what ,art and ,domestic ,art in the public schools should train the girl of to-day--the woman of the future--to do4 ,art on paper is the preparation for a journey--packing the suitcase1 as it were1 necessary but toilsome2 the application of art principles to the problems of real life1 the delightful excursion1 opening the eyes to real beauty and its possibilities4 ,may the children in our schools have something more than the drudgery of preparation4 ,clothing was first designed in the early ages1 no doubt1 as a covering and protection to the body2 it has come1 however1 to mean something more than this4 ,it is an expression of the character1 the nicety of taste--or lack of it--the discrimination and judgment of the individual4 ,in the selection of one's garments there are a number of points which must be taken into consideration1 such as health and comfort1 cost1 fitness1 color and style1 as well as beauty4 ,and above all1 the average woman must pause and consider last season's garments1 that are too good to be discarded and must form a part of this year's wardrobe4 ,it is quite disastrous to plunge ahead and buy a blue dress1 because blue happens to be stylish1 if the hat to be worn with it is a green or brown left over4 ,while a due regard to the opinions of others demands a certain conformity to the customs of the time and place in which one lives1 there is always a latitude allowed which enables one to exercise individual needs1 taste and preference4 ,health and comfort should take rank before everything else4 ,a style which interferes with either is an absurdity which anyone of good sense will avoid4 ,neatness should be considered above beauty or style4 ,a soiled collar1 hooks1 eyes and buttons missing1 gloves out at finger ends1 shoes dusty and unpolished1 braid hanging from the skirt1 the waist and skirt separated are all accidents which may befall anyone1 but are most deplorable when they become chronic4 ,it has been wisely said that the best dressed woman is she of whose clothing one is unconscious1 whose dress is neither conspicuous from extreme style nor too noticeable from a total disregard of the custom of the times4 ,good taste demands that one be not overdressed4 ,street and business suits and young girls' school dresses should be plain1 well made and neat1 of subdued and becoming color4 ,costly thy habit as thy purse can buy1 wrote ,shakespeare1 and the advice still holds good4 ,economy does not consist1 however1 of buying cheap1 shoddy material4 ,trimming can be dispensed with to the improvement of the average garment1 but a dress made of good cloth will out-wear1 look better1 give greater self-respect1 and in the end cost less than several dresses made of cheap stuff1 as the cost of making is no more for the one than the other4 ,this is a principle that applies as well to underwear4 ,simple garments1 well made of firm fine cambric are much to be preferred to those overtrimmed with cheap lace and sleazy embroidery4 ,some colors and styles are becoming to certain complexions and forms and are quite the reverse to others4 ,a short stout person should avoid plaids1 while one overly tall should never select stripes4 ,the lines of the garment are equally important--any method of trimming that gives length1 the long lines of the princess and the empire styles are a boon to the short figure1 while the overskirt1 the deep flounce1 and the bands of trimming running around the skirt1 all help to break the long lines for the tall woman4 ,belts that by contrast divide the figure are not good unless one wishes to shorten the height4 ,waists and skirts of the same color usually have more style and give better form4 ,give careful heed to the selection of color1 not only to the dress but to the accessories1 hat1 gloves1 collar1 belt and shoes1 as well4 ,in fact1 consider the costume as a whole made up of parts1 each one of which must harmonize with every other4 ,before sewing machines were to be found in every home and ready made clothing in the stores styles did not change so rapidly4 ,commercial conditions now make it to the advantage of a great army of people that the styles in dress change often and radically4 ,the manufacturers of cloth1 the wholesale merchants with their agents1 the retailers and their numerous clerks1 wholesale garment-makers and their many employes1 pattern-makers1 dress-makers1 milliners and the manufacturers of all minor articles of clothing are all benefitted by this oft recurring change in style4 ,this condition has come about so gradually that we hardly realize to what extent we are victims of trade-tricks4 ,it is not necessary nor desirable that woman should enslave herself to follow all the vagaries of style4 ,illustration3 ,,child',s ,,picture ,,book4 ,,chapter ,x4 ,,paper1 ,,cloth ,,and ,,cardboard ,,construction4 ,a ,,child',s ,,picture ,,book4 ,materials3 ,pink1 blue or yellow paper cambric #bg inches2 coarse thread2 coarse needle2 bright1 pretty pictures which the children have cut from papers1 magazines1 cards1 etc42 paste4 ,fold the cloth through the center with the warp and cut on the fold4 ,fold both strips into three equal pieces with the woof1 and cut4 ,fold each piece through the center parallel to the selvedge4 ,place two pieces together and pin at the fold1 and pink through the four thicknesses1 around the edges with a pinking iron4 ,do the same with the other pieces4 ,when finished place them all together and stitch at the fold at follows3 #a4 ,mark three holes on the fold with the needle1 one in the middle and one two inches above it1 and another two inches below it4 #b4 ,tie a large knot two inches from the end of the thread4 #c4 ,insert the needle at the lowest hole1 from the inside1 and draw it through leaving two inches of the thread to tie4 #d4 ,pass over the middle hole and down through the upper one1 out through the middle hole on one side of the long thread1 and back through the same hole on the other side of the thread1 and tie the two ends of the thread together4 ,paste a pretty card or large picture on the outside for the cover4 ,page the book with neat figures and write the name of the child for whom the book is designed on the inside of the cover4 ,arrange and paste in the pictures neatly4 ,a ,,box ,,with ,,cover4 ,materials3 ,cardboard for foundation #i x #i2 cover #g x #g2 colored paper for covering2 strips of cloth or glue-tape for staying corners2 glue4 ,use tooth-picks in applying the glue4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #a ,,and ,,no4 #b--,,one-,,piece ,,boxes4 ,,no4 #c4--,,two-,,piece ,,box4 ,,box ,,and ,,cover ,,alike4 ,illustration3 ,,group ,,of ,,boxes4 ,find the center of the card by drawing both diagonals4 ,measure two and one-half inches from the center toward the sides4 ,draw straight lines passing through these points connecting opposite edges1 thus forming a five-inch square in the center4 ,cut out the corners on these lines4 ,hold the edge of a ruler firmly to the lines of the square and bend the cardboard4 ,fold the strip of cloth or tape through the center and put the glue on this1 using very little1 and taking care to keep it back from the edge4 ,cover the corners with the cloth4 ,cut a strip of the colored paper twenty-one inches by two and three-fourth inches4 ,put a very little glue on the outside of the box and cover with the colored paper4 ,turn over the edges and glue them down4 ,follow the same directions for making the cover1 measuring two and five-eighth inches from the center of the seven-inch square of cardboard4 ,cover the sides and top with the colored paper1 the strip for the sides being twenty-two inches by one and one-half inches1 and the top a five-inch square4 ,this box can be made in any size or shape1 the same general plan being followed4 ,a ,,blank ,,book ,,with ,,paper ,,cover ,,re-,,inforced ,,with ,,cloth4 ,materials3 ,strong felt paper #i x #aj2 book cloth for back #aj x #c-a_/d1 for corners #d pieces #b x #a-c_/d2 lining paper for covers1 #b sheets #d-a_/d x #i-a_/b2 number of sheets of paper desired for the book #h-a_/b x #i-a_/b2 coarse thread2 coarse needle2 glue4 ,use tooth-picks in applying the glue4 ,draw a line on the felt paper through the middle the long way and fold on the line4 ,measure on the outside one and one-fourth inches from the corners along both edges1 and place points4 ,connect these points with straight lines4 ,place the long edge of the cloth corner to this line1 and fold it over the corner and crease4 ,remove and trim it even before gluing on4 ,put the glue always on the cloth and use as little as possible4 ,crease the strip of book-cloth for the back1 through the center1 but do not glue in place until after the leaves are sewed in4 ,fold the sheets of paper through the center of the book4 ,follow the same directions for sewing the leaves together as given in the description of ,a ,child's ,picture ,book1 page #aja4 ,finish by gluing the paper lining on the inside of the cover and the strip of book-cloth down the back4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,blank ,,book4 ,this book could be made any size or shape1 and decorated as desired4 ,a ,,folding ,,envelope ,,case ,,for ,,papers4 ,materials3 ,strong felt paper1 or its substitute2 7a sheet #bj x #cj cut through the center the short way will make two cases4 ,if two harmonious colors be selected1 the corners cut from one case can be used to decorate another72 book cloth in one-inch strips for binding2 glue4 ,use tooth-picks in applying the glue4 ,illustration3 ,,back ,,and ,,front ,,views ,,of ,a ,,folding ,,envelope ,,case ,,for ,,papers4 ,on the wrong side1 find the center of the paper twenty inches by fifteen inches by drawing both diagonals4 ,measure four and one-fourth inches from the center toward the sides4 ,draw straight lines passing through these points connecting opposite sides1 thus forming an eight-and-a-half inch square in the center4 ,cut out the four corners on these lines4 ,fold in the four sides on the lines of the square4 ,a strap1 which will fasten the case by slipping through a slit cut in the opposite side1 is to be made on one of the long flaps as follows3 ,place a point at the middle on the edge of the flap1 and measure an inch along the edge on both sides of this point4 ,measure down two inches from these last points and place dots4 ,connect these dots by straight lines with the top and sides4 ,cut the corners out on these lines4 ,trim the end of the strap to a point beginning one-half inch from the corners and cutting to the center point4 ,it is necessary to trim the edges of the flaps that there may be no difficulty in folding one over another4 ,measure one-half inch from the corners of the flaps and connect this point with the corner of the square1 and cut on these lines4 ,fold the half-inch strip of book-cloth through the center2 place the glue on the cloth and glue it for a binding around the raw edges of the case4 ,finish the corners of the binding with the square or mitered corner4 ,fold the fastening strap over the opposite side1 and place a point at the corners to locate the place where the slit is to be cut4 ,connect these two points by a straight line and draw another parallel to1 and three-fourths of an inch from it4 ,cut on these lines with a knife4 ,this slit must be strengthened by the book-cloth4 ,cut a piece two and three-fourths inches by one and one-fourth inches and glue over the strip on the wrong side2 clip the edges at the ends of the slit1 and bring through to the right side1 and glue them down4 ,the piece for the covering of the right side may be cut the exact width of the slit1 and the ends cut in some fancy shape4 ,this may be cut from the cloth1 or the paper used in the design4 ,the front of the case can be decorated as desired4 ,very beautiful effects can be obtained by cutting out the design from paper that harmonizes in color and gluing it on4 ,this makes a very useful case for holding school papers1 and if neatly and carefully done1 is an excellent exercise4 ,,clipping ,,case4 ,materials3 #d envelopes1 #d-a_/h x #i-a_/b2 #d strips of book-cloth #i-a_/b x #a2 #a strip of book-cloth #aj x #c-a_/b2 #d pieces of book-cloth #b x #a-a_/d2 heavy felt paper #i x #aj2 #b sheets lining paper #d-a_/d x #i-a_/b2 glue4 ,put the glue on the cloth each time with tooth-picks4 ,illustration3 ,,clipping ,,case4 ,follow the directions for making the cover of the ,blank ,book with ,paper ,cover ,re-inforced with ,cloth1 page #ajd4 ,the envelopes take the place of the sheets of paper and are fastened in place as follows3 #a4 ,on the back and front of the envelopes draw a line parallel to and one-half inch from the bottom4 #b4 ,fold a strip of book-cloth one inch by nine and one-half inches through the center the long way4 #c4 ,glue one-half of this folded strip to the half-inch below the line on the back of one envelope and the other half to the half-inch below the line on the front of another envelope4 ,continue thus until the four envelopes are fastened together4 #d4 ,glue half of a strip of the cloth to the front of the first envelope and the other half to the front of the cover to hold in the desired position4 ,do the same at the back4 #e4 ,glue in the lining papers on the covers4 ,the outside may be decorated as desired4 ,a ,,postal ,,card ,,album4 ,materials3 ,paper for leaves of book2 pulp board in three pieces1 #e x #h1 #e x #f-c_/d1 #e x #a2 book-cloth in two pieces #f x #i2 lining paper in two pieces #d-c_/d x #g-c_/d2 glue2 eyelet punch and eyelets4 ,illustration3 ,,two ,,views ,,of ,a ,,post ,,card ,,album--,,closed ,,and ,,open4 ,to be of value the work in this exercise must be exact1 with measurements perfectly accurate4 ,the glue is to be used sparingly and spread upon the cloth and not on the pulp board4 ,draw on the book-cloth an oblong five by eight inches1 which will leave a margin of one-half inch4 ,put the glue on the cloth and place the pulp board five by eight inches over the oblong4 ,turn over the edges and finish4 ,glue the lining paper in place4 ,place under weight as soon as finished4 ,the front cover is made the same with the exception of a joint in the pulp board4 ,draw on the second piece of book-cloth an oblong five by eight inches4 ,draw a line one inch from and parallel to one end of the oblong4 ,draw a second line one-fourth of an inch from this4 ,spread the glue on the cloth and place the two pieces of pulp board on the oblong with a quarter-inch space between them1 and proceed as before4 ,both covers can be made with the joint if desired4 ,punch with the eyelet tool two holes in each cover three inches apart and one-half inch from the edge1 and put in the eyelets4 ,take care that these holes are directly opposite4 ,cut the paper for the book into sheets four and one-half by seven and three-fourths inches 7or four and one-half by fifteen and one-half inches71 and fold4 ,punch the eyelets exactly even with those in the cover4 ,place a postal-card three and one-half by five and one-half inches on the sheets with a half-inch margin at top1 bottom and end1 and make two points on each of the four sides1 one one-half inch from the corner1 and the other one inch4 ,connect corresponding points by slant lines and cut with a knife on these lines4 ,the outside cover can be decorated in any way desired4 ,this style of cover can be used for a book of any size or shape4 ,,picture ,,framing4 ,select a mount of the proper color for the picture to be used1 and passepartout paper to harmonize4 ,cut to the desired size and shape4 ,cut a piece of cardboard to the same size4 ,have a glass cut to the size of the mount1 also a mat for the picture1 if desired4 ,place the picture in position on the mount1 and draw guide lines to aid in pasting the picture in place4 ,put the two rings used for the purpose of hanging the picture1 into the cardboard back before putting the parts together4 ,the rings should be placed exactly even1 measuring down from the top about one-third of the width of the picture1 and in at the sides one inch4 ,clean the glass carefully1 and place it over the picture4 ,between the cardboard back and the picture place two or three layers of newspaper4 ,be sure that the back is placed with the rings toward the top4 ,tie all together very tightly with a strong cord1 passing the cord only around one way of the picture4 ,cut the passepartout paper the length of the picture and crease it over the edges4 ,moisten the paper and stick it first to the glass and then draw it firmly over the edge and down on the cardboard back4 ,it is necessary to work rapidly after the paper is moistened4 ,finish the other edge in the same manner4 ,before removing the cord1 tie another around the other way4 ,finish the two ends in the same manner as the sides1 with the exception of the corners4 ,cut the passe-partout paper an inch longer than the side to be covered1 and do not fasten down quite to the corner4 ,trim for a mitered corner on the glass side and cut a narrow strip the thickness of the glass1 and stick it down along the other edge4 ,tie a cord into the rings for hanging4 ,illustration ,a ,,four ,,sided1 ,,collapsible ,,candle ,,or ,,lamp ,,shade4 ,materials3 ,cardboard2 book-cloth or ,japanese tissue paper2 passe-partout paper4 ,cut a pattern of one section of the shade in the form of a trapezoid having the longer parallel five and seven-eighth inches1 the shorter parallel one and three-eighth inches and the altitude four and one-half inches4 ,candle shadeholders are uniform in size being six and one-half inches in circumference4 ,to fit this circular holder1 the shade may be rounded out at the top1 although it can be used with the straight edge4 ,cut a strip of cardboard five inches wide1 and from this cut the four sides of the shade4 ,the decoration of the shade may be varied greatly4 ,the design may be drawn upon the back of the cardboard and cut out the same as a stencil1 care being taken that the proper bridges are in place4 ,the book-cloth is then pasted on the back4 ,if the cardboard is intended as a framework only1 construct a second trapezoid one-half inch inside the other1 and cut on the lines4 ,the possibilities for decoration are limitless4 ,a design may be stenciled1 embroidered1 or worked with any of the fancy stitches upon any thin material through which the light will shine1 and then pasted over the back of the frame-work4 ,fancy silks are also very effective4 ,when the sections are finished1 fasten them together with the passe-partout paper4 ,lay them all face downward with the sides to be joined placed as closely together as possible1 and stick the moistened paper over adjoining edges4 ,book-cloth or any firm material can be used instead of the passe-partout paper4 ,illustration ,,chapter ,,xi4 ,,home ,,furnishing1 ,,decoration ,,and ,,care4 ,bright1 clean1 tasteful and well regulated homes will add more to the sum of human happiness than anything else in life4 ,a happy home does not always mean a costly one4 ,the simple1 tidy home of the day laborer may have the home-atmosphere that the mansion may lack4 ,a home can be tastefully1 even if cheaply1 furnished4 ,a thoughtful teacher can impart to her class a love of home and a respect and honor for the labor that keeps that home clean1 attractive and wholesome1 and instill womanly traits that may add greatly to the happiness of the individuals and the betterment of all with whom they come in contact4 ,a familiarity with the conditions of an ideal home and the aroused interest of the girls who will be the home-makers in a few years will have an influence and value that is limitless4 ,the parents1 also1 may receive suggestions through their children that will react on the present home conditions4 ,every teacher will invent her own method of reaching her particular class1 depending upon their needs and environment1 using all necessary tact4 ,an outline is given below which will suggest a few topics and one method of conducting the lessons4 ,there are many kindred subjects1 such as good ventilation1 plenty of sunlight1 good house-keeping1 etc41 that can be brought into the discussions1 but the enthusiasm which is aroused is really the vital point of the lesson4 ,,an ,,imaginary ,,home4 ,when furnishing a home take into consideration sanitary conditions1 use1 convenience1 economy and artistic effects4 #a4 ,ask pupils to make clippings of house plans from papers1 magazines1 etc4 ,study and compare them4 #b4 ,decide upon a plan for a simple house1 and have some member of the class draw the floor plans upon the blackboard where it can remain for a time4 #c4 ,several points must be considered in conjunction1 that there may may be harmony throughout the house as the rooms open into each other4 a4 ,the color scheme and design for each room4 ,some samples of cloth or paper to show the exact colors and combinations of colors decided upon4 b4 ,decoration of the walls4 c4 ,the floor finish or covering4 d4 ,color of shades and curtains that the outside may present a favorable appearance4 #d4 ,divide the class into sections and assign a room to each section to suggest detail in style of furnishing and decorating4 a4 ,living ,room4 b4 ,dining ,room4 c4 ,kitchen4 d4 ,pantry4 e4 ,hall4 f4 ,sleeping ,rooms4 g4 ,bath4 h4 ,laundry4 #e4 ,avoid over-crowding the rooms with furniture and cluttering with too many pictures and useless and inartistic bric-a-brac1 and dust-collectors4 #f4 ,the ,care of the ,home3 ,this topic will enable the teacher to give many helpful suggestions4 ,assign sub-divisions of the subject to different members of the class3 a4 ,sweeping4 b4 ,dusting4 c4 ,care of bare floors4 d4 ,window washing4 e4 ,dish washing4 f4 ,care of cupboards4 g4 ,care of book-shelves1 daily papers1 magazines1 etc4 h4 ,care of sleeping rooms1 beds1 etc4 i4 ,care of bath rooms4 ,,chapter ,,xii4 ,,basketry4 ,basketry is one of the oldest handicrafts known to man1 but it reached its greatest excellence with the tribes of ,american ,indians who wove baskets from the grasses1 reeds and rushes which they gathered as they wandered from place to place in their nomadic life4 ,these materials were colored with dyes made by cooking the bark of certain trees and the roots and bulbs of plants1 a knowledge of which was handed down from mother to daughter4 ,the designs were not meaningless1 but represented by symbols their prayers to the ,deity for rain1 success to a war party1 or a petition for favorable crops4 ,or it might be they chronicled the victory over a hostile tribe1 a maiden's love for a stalwart brave1 or a thousand other events of their lives in conventionalized symbolic form4 ,the shape1 size and use varied as much as the design4 ,the material used by the ,indians is not available for us but imported raffia1 rattan and rushes form excellent substitutes4 ,raffia1 a product of the ,island of ,madagascar1 is a soft1 pliable1 yellowish fiber growing next to the bark of a species of palm tree4 ,rattan is the product of a kind of palm which grows in ,india4 ,it is stripped of leaves and split into round or flat strips of different sizes4 ,a more instructive occupation cannot be found for children than basketry and its allied subjects4 ,it not only is fascinating in itself1 but develops patience1 judgment1 dexterity and skill1 and embodies the satisfaction of making a beautiful and useful article4 ,it is not only an educative occupation for school1 but for the home as well4 ,baskets are known as the woven baskets made of the round or flat rattan and the sewed baskets made from the raffia and reeds4 ,,general ,,directions ,,for ,,making ,,the ,,coil ,,basket4 ,preparation of ,materials4--,round reeds are sold in sizes from the very fine ,number #j to the coarse ,number #h4 ,hemp cord of different sizes may be substituted for the reeds of a flexible basket if desired4 ,illustration3 ,,beginning ,a ,,basket ,,in ,,any ,,weave4 #a #b #c #d #a--,the reed sharpened to a flat point4 #b--,the end of the sharpened reed wound with raffia4 #c--,the end of the reed curled into a small button4 #d--,splicing reeds by cutting both to a flat point4 ,beginning about two inches from one end of the reed1 sharpen to a flat point4 ,coil the other end1 leaving ten or fifteen inches uncoiled1 and tie with raffia two or three times4 ,soak the reeds in water until very pliable1 then remove and wipe dry before using4 ,the raffia may be used wet or dry as one prefers4 ,it may be used in coarse strands for the large baskets or split to any size desired for the finer stitches1 but should be kept uniform4 ,the basket sewing requires either the sharp or blunt tapestry needle1 varying in size between ,number #ah and ,number #bb4 ,thread the end of the raffia that has been cut from the tree into the needle1 thus working with the fiber1 as it is less liable to split4 ,much of the beauty of the basket will depend upon the smoothness and neatness of the work4 ,beginning the ,basket4--,baskets may be classified as round or oval4 ,a4 ,,the ,,round ,,basket4 ,draw the sharpened end of the pliable reed between the thumb and finger into the smallest possible coil4 ,lay the end of the raffia to the point and along the sharpened end of the reed and hold it in place with the left hand4 ,by a sharp turn in the thread begin winding over the reed and raffia to the point4 ,then shape into the coil by sewing through the center1 thus forming the button as in the illustration4 ,illustration3 ,,baskets ,,begun ,,in ,,three ,,different ,,weaves4 #a #b #c #a--,round basket in the ,navajo weave4 #b--,oval basket in the ,lazy ,squaw weave4 #c--,round basket in the ,mariposa weave ,b4 ,,the ,,oval ,,basket3 ,illustration3 ,,group ,,of ,,baskets ,,showing ,,variety ,,in ,,size1 ,,shape ,,and ,,design4 ,the end of the reed is not sharpened1 and must be very soft and pliable1 or it cannot be bent together at the desired length1 two1 three1 four1 five or more inches from the end1 without breaking4 ,it will do no special harm if it splits1 however1 as it is to be covered with the raffia4 ,lay the end of the raffia to the end of the reed1 along the reed and around the bend1 and by a sharp turn in the thread wind four or five times over the raffia1 covering the bend in the reed4 ,the two reeds may then be caught together by the stitch selected for the basket1 or the ,navajo or figure eight stitch may be used and the other stitch introduced on the second round4 ,splicing the ,reed4--,as the reed naturally coils somewhat take care to splice it so that the coil in the two pieces remains the same1 otherwise it would draw apart4 ,sharpen the top side of one reed and the underside of the other to a long flat point and slip one past the other until the two together form the uniform size of the reed4 ,it is sometimes advisable for a novice to wind the spliced reeds with fine thread1 but experience will teach one to do the splicing with the sewing of the basket4 ,splicing the ,thread4--,when a new thread is needed lay the end of the old thread along the reed and place the new thread over it1 and by a sharp turn in the thread1 wind once or twice over both1 and continue the stitch as before4 ,when the ends are firmly fastened clip them off4 ,shaping the ,basket4--,coiled basketry admits of the greatest variety in shape and size1 from the simple table mat to the exquisitely beautiful jar and vase forms1 while the stitches lend themselves to an endless variety of design ranging from the simplest to the most intricate patterns4 ,it is well to have in mind the shape and design before beginning the basket1 as haphazard work is not apt to be satisfactory4 ,baskets can be easily shaped to any desired form1 as this depends entirely upon the position of each succeeding reed upon the one below it4 ,introduction of ,color4--,all reeds in the coiled basket are wound twice with the raffia4 ,it is important to keep this in mind when putting in designs4 ,the colored raffia is introduced in the same manner that the thread is spliced1 by laying it along the reed and sewing over it4 ,when working out designs in color do not cut the thread when changing from one to another1 but lay the thread not in use along the reed and sew over it1 bringing it out when ready to use it again4 ,as an aid in dividing the space for a design a piece of paper may be cut and folded into the desired number of sections1 and these marked on the basket4 ,these spaces are then filled in without regard to the exact number of stitches required to cover the reeds4 ,beginners should make a study of ,indian baskets and their designs4 ,finishing the ,basket4--,cut the end of the reed to a flat point two inches in length1 and gradually taper the stitching off so that it shows where it ends as little as possible4 ,the last two rows of the basket might be stitched with colored raffia unless it detracts from the design4 ,illustration3 ,,basket ,,showing ,,the ,,navajo ,,weave4 ,,description ,,of ,,basket ,,stitches4 ,the stitching proceeds along a continuous coil1 so that each stitch is passed beneath the stitches of the coil beneath4 ,for convenience in analyzing these stitches the two reeds may be designated as the loose reed and the fastened reed4 ,the ,navajo ,stitch 7,figure ,eight74--,hold the commenced coil in the left hand which will cause the work to proceed from the right toward the left4 7a7 ,pass the thread between the two reeds toward you1 7b7 over the loose reed from you1 7c7 between the two reeds toward you1 7d7 down between the stitches of the fastened reed from you1 and beginning again at 7a7 pass the thread between the two reeds toward you completing the figure eight4 ,draw the two reeds firmly together4 ,illustration3 ,,basket ,,showing ,,the ,,lazy ,,squaw ,,weave4 ,this is the stitch used by the ,indians in making the baskets which they ornamented with feathers1 wampum1 shells and beads4 ,the ,lazy ,squaw ,stitch4--,this stitch is made up of two parts1 a long and a short stitch4 ,hold the commenced coil in the left hand and work from right to left4 7a7 ,wrap the thread toward you over and around the loose reed once1 7b7 then over the loose reed again1 7c7 and down from you between the stitches of the fastened reed and back to 7a74 ,this completes the long-and-short stitch4 ,the story of the origin of the name ,lazy-,squaw stitch is interesting4 ,if the squaw was inclined to slight her work she would wrap the loose reed several times before taking the long and more difficult stitch which bound the two reeds together4 ,she would then receive from her companions the ignominious title of lazy-squaw4 ,as a modification of this stitch the wrapping of the loose reed is omitted1 and the long stitch only is used4 ,this passes each time between the stitches of the coil beneath4 ,illustration3 ,,basket ,,showing ,,the ,,mariposa ,,weave4 ,the ,mariposa ,stitch 7,knotted74--,in analyzing this stitch we find that it is made up of three parts4 ,it is the same as the ,lazy ,squaw ,stitch with the addition of the knotted effect obtained by passing the thread around the long stitch4 ,hold the commenced coil in the left hand and work from right to left1 7a7 ,wrap the thread toward you over and around the loose reed once1 7b7 then over the loose reed again1 7c7 and down from you between the stitches of the fastened reed1 thus binding the two reeds together1 7d7 bring the needle up between the two reeds at the left side of the long stitch1 7e7 cross over this stitch1 going down between the two reeds at the right of the long stitch4 ,bring the thread over the loose reed and begin wrapping again as at 7a74 ,the ,samoan ,stitch 7,lace ,effect74--,baskets that are to be lined are very pretty made of this stitch4 ,it is also very effective combined with other stitches1 or as the finishing coil of a basket4 ,the ,samoan ,stitch is a modification of the ,mariposa ,stitch1 the only difference being in the space between the reeds and the passing of the thread around the long stitch two1 three or more times1 which gives the lace effect4 ,the reeds must be held firmly1 however1 and the thread passed around the long stitch times enough to make the basket firm4 ,books on the ,manual ,arts ,,clay ,,work4 ,by ,,katherine ,,morris ,,lester4 ,this book has been written by a grade teacher and art worker to help teachers in acquiring the technique of clay working1 and to give them suggestions concerning the teaching of the several types of clay work suited to pupils in the elementary schools4 ,it covers the study of natural forms1 the human figure in relief and the round1 animal forms1 story illustration1 architectural ornament1 tiles1 hand-built pottery and pottery decoration4 ,the book is richly illustrated with more than fifty half-tone and line cuts showing processes1 designs1 and the work of children from ten to twelve years of age4 ,price1 #a4jj4 ,,classroom ,,practice ,,in ,,design4 ,by ,,james ,,parton ,,haney4 ,a concise up-to-date1 richly illustrated brochure on the teaching of applied design4 ,price1 #ej cents4 ,,the ,,wash ,,method ,,of ,,handling ,,water ,,colour4 ,by ,,frank ,,forrest ,,frederick4 ,a brief1 clear1 comprehensive text printed in sepia and illustrated with wash drawings and a water-color painting by the author4 ,price1 #ej cents4 ,,simplified ,,mechanical ,,perspective4 ,by ,,frank ,,forrest ,,frederick4 ,a book of simple problems covering the essentials of mechanical perspective4 ,it is planned for pupils of high school age who have already received some elementary training in mechanical drawing4 ,it is simple1 direct and practical4 ,price1 #ge cents4 ,,the ,,construction ,,and ,,flying ,,of ,,kites4 ,,by ,,charles ,m4 ,,miller4 ,this contains seven full-page plates of drawings of kites and fifteen figures--over forty kites shown4 ,details of construction given2 a kite tournament is described4 ,full of interesting suggestions4 ,price1 #bj cents4 ,,coping ,,saw ,,work4 ,by ,,ben ,w4 ,,johnson4 ,contains working drawings and suggestions for teaching a course of work in thin wood that is full of fun for the children1 and affords ample means for training in form study1 construction1 invention and careful work4 ,has been called applied mechanics for the fourth grade4 ,price1 #bj cents4 ,,selected ,,shop ,,problems4 ,by ,,george ,a4 ,,seaton4 ,a collection of sixteen problems in woodworking made to meet the needs of busy teachers of manual training4 ,each problem has been put to the test and has proven satisfactory to the teacher who designed it and the pupil who made it4 ,price1 #bj cents4 ,,beginning ,,woodwork4 ,at home and in school4 ,by ,,clinton ,s4 ,,van ,,deusen2 illustrated by ,edwin ,v4 ,lawrence4 ,a full and clear description in detail of the fundamental processes of elementary benchwork in wood4 ,this description is given through directions for making a few simple1 useful articles suitable either for school or home problems4 ,price1 #a4jj4 ,,handwork ,,in ,,wood4 ,by ,,william ,,noyes4 ,a notable book on woodworking4 ,it is the result of extensive research and long experience in teaching and in training teachers4 ,it is a comprehensive and scholarly treatment of the subject and is the one book of reference which teachers of woodworking feel that they must always have at hand4 ,price1 #b4jj4 ,,essentials ,,of ,,woodworking4 ,by ,,ira ,s4 ,,griffith1 illustrated by ,edwin ,v4 ,lawrence4 ,a text book on woodworking tools1 materials and processes to supplement the instruction given by the teacher4 ,very fully illustrated4 ,price1 #a4be4 ,,woodwork ,,for ,,schools ,,on ,,scientific ,,lines4 ,by ,,james ,,thomas ,,baily and ,s4 ,,pollitt4 ,this is the ,american edition of an ,english book containing #abj practical problems1 many of which have been designed to correlate mathematics and physical science with manual training4 ,price1 #ge cents4 ,,problems ,,in ,,woodworking4 ,by ,m4 ,w4 ,,murray4 ,a convenient collection of good problems ready to place in the hands of the pupil4 ,price1 #ge cents4 ,,problems ,,in ,,furniture ,,making4 ,by ,,fred ,d4 ,,crawshaw4 ,thirty-two plates of working drawings of simple1 artistic furniture1 with notes on construction1 finish and design4 ,price1 #a4jj4 ,,problems ,,in ,,mechanical ,,drawing4 ,by ,,charles ,a4 ,,bennett1 with drawings made by ,fred ,d4 ,crawshaw4 ,the purpose of this book is to furnish teachers of classes beginning mechanical drawing with a large number of simple1 practical problems in convenient form for immediate use4 ,price1 #a4jj4 ,,problems ,,in ,,wood-,,turning4 ,by ,,fred ,d4 ,,crawshaw4 ,a collection of problems presented in the form of #be plates excellent in draftsmanship4 ,contains a brief1 clear text on the science and art of wood-turning2 also a chapter on ,form and ,proportion1 which shows how accepted principles of art may be applied in designing objects to be turned in wood4 ,price1 #hj cents4 ,,manual ,,training ,,magazine4 ,edited by ,,charles ,a4 ,,bennett4 ,published bi-monthly4 ,price1 #a4ej a year4 99 99 99 99 99 ,in addition to the above1 we keep in stock the best books on the ,manual ,arts issued by other publishers4 ,,the ,,manual ,,arts ,,press 33 ,,peoria1 ,,ill4 99 99 99 99 99 ,transcriber's ,notes3 ,obvious punctuation errors repaired4 ,unless an obvious majority appeared1 varied hyphenation was retained4 ,page #ae1 stich changed to stitch 7with the running stitch7 ,page #bh1 carboard changed to cardboard 7,cardboard #d x #d7 ,page #bh1 the anchor for footnote #ah was missing from the page4 ,it was added4 7,christmas ,piece #agah7 ,pages #ca and #cf1 there once reference but two different notes for the basketry substitute project4 ,to make this easier1 the second reference was changed to #ba which necessitated changing the third reference to #bb4 ,page #ch1 kaiki is a little used but actual variant of khaki and was retained4 ,page #dd1 anchor missing for footnote #ca4 ,added4 7,,christmas ,,piece4#bhca ,pages #df and #dh1 same issue as above with double note references4 ,edited as above4 ,page #ee1 button holes changed to buttonholes to match rest of usage 7quarter-inch buttonholes and sew7 ,page #ff1 sitch changed to stitch 7next to the last stitch7 ,page #ga1 ,no changed to ,do 7,do not confuse this7 ,page #gf1 lop changed to loop 7side is the loop7 ,page #gi1 ,guaging changed to ,gauging 7description of ,gauging7 ,page #ha1 of changed to or 7ten or fifteen cents7 ,page #ib1 especialy changed to especially 7makes it especially7 ,page #ib1 weeeks changed to weeks 7,six weeks after it7 ,page #id1 ,pharoahs changed to ,pharaohs 7days of the ,pharaohs7 ,page #ie1 in changed to is 7blossom is very7 ,page #ih1 detacts changed to detracts 7line that detracts7 ,page #ih1 indiviual changed to individual 7judgment of the individual7 ,page #aaf1 double word the removed4 ,original read 7end of the the pliable7 ,page #aah1 baseket changed to basket 7in the coiled basket are7