,transcriber's ,note ,obvious typographical errors have been corrected4 ,a list of corrections is found at the end of the text4 ,inconsistencies in spelling and hyphenation have been maintained4 ,a list of inconsistently spelled and hyphenated words is found at the end of the text4 ,oe ligatures have been expanded4 ,illustrations have been moved and placed near the paragraph that they illustrate whenever possible ,,the ,,century ,,cook ,,book ,illustration3 ,,square-,,cornered ,,dinner-,,table ,,with ,,fourteen ,,covers4 ,,decorations ,,in ,,white4 7,,see ,,page #ah47 ,,the ,,century ,,cook ,,book ,,by ,mary ,ronald ,this book contains directions for cooking in its various branches1 from the simplest forms to high-class dishes and ornamental pieces2 a group of ,new ,england dishes furnished by ,susan ,coolidge2 and a few receipts of distinctively ,southern dishes4 ,it gives also the etiquette of dinner entertainments--how to serve dinners--table decorations1 and many items relative to household affairs4 ,,now ,,good ,,digestion ,,wait ,,on ,,appetite ,,and ,,health ,,on ,,both --,macbeth ,illustration ,,new ,,york ,,the ,,century ,,co4 #aija ,copyright1 #ahie1 by ,,the ,,century ,,co4 ,,the ,,devinne ,,press4 ,to be a good cook means the knowledge of all fruits1 herbs1 balms and spices1 and of all that is healing and sweet in field and groves1 and savory in meats2 means carefulness1 inventiveness1 watchfulness1 willingness and readiness of appliance4 ,it means the economy of your great-grandmothers and the science of modern chemists4 ,it means much tasting and no wasting4 ,it means ,english thoroughness1 ,french art and ,arabian hospitality4 ,it means1 in fine1 that you are to be perfectly and always ladies 7loaf-givers7 and are to see that every one has something nice to eat4--,,ruskin4 ,,aphorisms--,,brillat-,,savarin4 ,les animaux se repaissent2 l'homme mange2 l'homme d'esprit seul sait manger4 ,dis moi ce que tu manges1 je te dirai ce que tu es4 ,le ,createur1 en obligeant l'homme a manger pour vivre1 l'y invite par l'appetit et l'en recompense par le plaisir4 ,la table est le seul endroit ou l'on ne s'ennuie jamais pendant la premiere heure4 ,la decouverte d'un mets nouveau fait plus pour le bonheur du genre humain que la decouverte d'une etoile4 ,l'ordre des comestibles est des plus substantiels aux plus legers4 ,l'ordre des boissons est des plus temperees aux plus fumeuses et aux plus parfumees4 ,on devient cuisinier mais on nait rotisseur4 ,attendre trop longtemps un convive retardataire est un manque d'egards pour tous ceux qui sont present4 ,celui qui recoit ses amis1 et ne donne aucun soin personnel au repas qui leur est prepare1 n'est pas digne d'avoir des amis4 ,la maitresse de la maison doit toujours s'assurer que le cafe est excellent1 et le maitre1 que les liqueurs sont de premier choix4 ,,time ,,table4 ,,boiling4 ,,meats4 ,time4 ,mutton per pound #ae minutes4 ,potted ,beef #cj to #ce min4 ,corned ,beef #cj minutes4 ,ham #ah to #bj min4 ,turkey #ae minutes4 ,chicken #ae ,fowl #bj to #cj min4 ,tripe #c to #e hours4 ,,fish4 ,time4 ,codfish per pound #f minutes4 ,haddock #f ,halibut #ae ,blue #aj ,bass #aj ,salmon #aj to #ae min4 ,small ,fish #f minutes4 ,lobster #cj to #dj min4 ,,vegetables4 ,potatoes #bj to #cj min4 ,asparagus #bj to #be ,peas #ae to #bj ,string ,beans #bj to #cj ,lima #cj to #dj ,spinach #ae to #bj ,turnips #cj minutes4 ,beets #cj min4 or more4 ,cabbage #bj ,cauliflower #bj ,brussels ,sprouts #aj to #ae min4 ,onions #cj to #dj ,parsnips #cj to #dj ,green ,corn #bj to #be ,macaroni #bj minutes4 ,rice #ae to #bj min4 ,,baking4 ,,meats4 ,time ,beef1 ribs1 rare per pound1 #h to #aj min4 well done #ab to #ae boned rolled #ab to #ae ,round of ,beef #ab to #ae ,mutton1 leg1 rare #aj minutes4 well done #ae loin1 rare #h shoulder1 stuffed #ae saddle1 rare #i ,lamb1 well done #ae ,veal1 #ah to #bj min4 ,pork1 #bj minutes4 ,venison1 rare #aj ,chicken #ae ,goose #ah ,fillet1 hot oven #cj minutes4 ,braised ,meats #c to #d hours4 ,liver1 whole #b hours4 ,turkey1 #h lbs #a-c_/d very large #c ,birds1 small1 hot oven #ae to #bj min4 ,ducks1 tame #de minutes4 wild1 very hot oven #ae ,partridge #ce to #dj min4 ,grouse #bj to #be ,,fish4 ,time4 ,large ,fish #a hour1 about4 ,small #bj to #cj min4 ,time4 ,bread #a hour4 ,biscuits #bj minutes4 ,cake #bj to #de min4 ,custards1 very slow oven #a hour4 ,,broiling4 ,time4 ,steak1 #a inch thick #h to #aj min4 #a-a_/b #aj to #ae ,mutton ,chops1 ,french #h minutes4 ,english #aj ,spring ,chicken #bj ,quail #h to #aj min4 ,grouse #ae minutes4 ,squabs #aj to #ae min4 ,shad1 ,bluefish1 ,trout #ae to #be ,small ,fish #e to #aj ,,weights ,,and ,,measures #d gills #a pint4 #b pints #a quart4 #d quarts #a gallon4 #af ounces #a pound4 #a_/b kitchen cupful #a gill4 #a kitchen cupful #a_/b pint or #b gills4 #d kitchen cupfuls #a quart4 #b cupfuls of granulated sugar #a pound4 #b-a_/b cupfuls of powdered sugar #a heaping tablespoonful of sugar #a ounce4 #a heaping tablespoonful of butter #b oz4 or #a_/d cupful4 ,butter size of an egg #a cupful of butter #a_/b pound4 #d cupfuls of flour #a pound4 #a heaping quart #h round tablespoonfuls of dry material #a cupful4 #af tablespoonfuls of liquid #a cupful4 ,,proportions #e to #h eggs to #a quart of milk for custards4 #c to #d eggs to #a pint of milk for custards4 #a saltspoonful of salt to #a quart of milk for custards4 #a teaspoonful of vanilla to #a quart of milk for custards4 #b ounces of gelatine to #a-c_/d quarts of liquid4 #d heaping tablespoonfuls of cornstarch to #a quart of milk4 #c heaping teaspoonfuls of baking-powder to #a quart of flour4 #a even teaspoonful of baking-powder to #a cupful of flour4 #a teaspoonful of soda to #a pint of sour milk4 #a teaspoonful of soda to #a_/b pint of molasses4 #a teaspoonful of baking-powder is the equivalent of #a_/b teaspoonful of soda and #a teaspoonful of cream of tartar4 ,for other proportions1 see page #cdj4 ,for measuring1 see page #gg4 ,,preface ,in ,france various honors are awarded to cooks4 ,accomplished chefs de cuisine are by compliment called cordon-bleu1 which is an ancient and princely order4 ,a successful culinary production takes the name of the inventor1 and by it his fame often lasts longer than that of many men who have achieved positions in the learned professions4 ,cooking is there esteemed a service of especial merit1 hence ,france ranks all nations in gastronomy4 ,although definite honors are not conferred on cooks elsewhere1 good cooking is everywhere appreciated1 and there is no reason why it should not be the rule instead of the exception4 ,in large establishments it may be said to prevail1 but in many moderate households the daily fare is of a quality which satisfies no other sense than that of hunger1 the hygienic requirements and esthetic possibilities being quite unknown or disregarded4 ,this is what ,savarin designates as feeding1 in contradistinction to dining4 ,the author believes that the women of to-day1 because of their higher education1 have a better understanding of domestic duties2 that hygiene1 economy1 system1 and methods are better understood and more generally practised4 ,children are not only more sensibly clothed1 but they are more wholesomely fed1 and households are directed with more intelligent care4 ,it is hoped that this book will inculcate a desire to learn the simple principles of cooking for the benefits which such knowledge will give1 and that it will be of material assistance to any woman who wishes to establish and maintain a well-ordered cuisine4 ,receipts are given for simple and inexpensive as well as elaborate and costly dishes1 and they are intended to be of use to the inexperienced as well as to the trained cook4 ,the rules are given in precise language1 with definite measurement and time1 so that no supervision by the mistress will be required for any receipt given the cook4 ,at the head of each chapter are given the general rules for the dishes included in that class4 ,economy1 practicability1 and the resources of the average kitchen have been constantly borne in mind4 ,the illustrations1 it is believed1 will aid materially in serving dishes1 as they complete and demonstrate the receipts4 ,many of them are given to attract attention to very simple dishes1 which might be selected as suited to one's convenience1 but which might otherwise be overlooked in a hasty perusal of the text4 ,the pictures are from photographs of dishes1 many of which are not too difficult for a novice to undertake4 ,the author has fortunately been able to secure from ,susan ,coolidge a number of receipts of ,new ,england dishes2 also a few distinctively ,southern dishes from an equally experienced ,southern housekeeper4 ,these1 she hopes1 will enable many who have strayed from home to enjoy again the dishes associated with other times and places4 ,much care has been taken to give a complete alphabetical index1 so that anything in the book can be quickly found1 even if the ordinary classification is not understood4 ,the chapters on etiquette1 serving1 etc41 are meant to aid those young housekeepers who1 from lack of observation or experience1 find themselves at a loss to remember small details when the responsibility of an entertainment falls upon them for the first time4 ,the author1 in speaking of this book to friends1 has had various questions asked and suggestions given1 by which she has endeavored to profit4 ,some of the questions have been the following3 ,have you given receipts suitable for a family of two or three8 ,have you given expedients1 so if articles called for in the receipts are not at hand others may be substituted8 ,is your book only for rich people8 ,is it not a mistake to use ,french names1 which many do not understand8 etc41 etc4 ,in deference to the last suggestion1 she has explained the meaning of certain classes of dishes known only by the ,french names1 and which would lose character if translated4 ,a souffle1 for instance1 has no special significance when called inflated1 but the word souffle defines the class of dishes which are inflated1 and is so generally understood that it is almost an ,anglicized word4 ,the terms ,souffles1 ,pates1 ,timbales1 ,hors-d'oeuvres1 ,entrees1 etc41 are as distinctive as ,stews1 ,hashes1 ,creams1 etc42 hence there seems no other way than to learn the culinary nomenclature as one partakes of the dishes4 ,the author strongly urges the trial of new dishes1 and breaking away from the routine of habit4 ,the preparation of so-called fancy dishes is very simple4 ,a little attention given to ornamentation and garnishing1 making dishes attractive in appearance as well as taste1 will raise the standard of cooking without necessarily increasing the expense4 ,,contents ,,part ,i ,,page ,,dinner-,,giving ,,and ,,the ,,etiquette ,,of ,,dinners #a ,,manner ,,of ,,serving ,,dinners #aj ,,laying ,,the ,,table #ac ,,table ,,decorations #ag ,,courses #bd ,,the ,,home ,,dinner #bg ,,serving ,,the ,,informal ,,dinner #bi ,,luncheon #ca ,,the ,,five ,o',,clock ,,tea #cc ,a ,,homily ,,on ,,cooking #ce ,,cooking ,,as ,a ,,pleasure ,,and ,,an ,,accomplishment #ch ,,to ,,train ,a ,,green ,,cook #dj ,,economical ,,living #dd ,,wastefulness #ej ,,how ,,to ,,utilize ,,what ,,some ,,cooks ,,throw ,,away #ea ,,emergencies #ee ,,things ,,to ,,remember #eh ,,care ,,of ,,utensils #fa ,,part ,,ii ,,chapter ,i ,,methods ,,of ,,cooking ,,explained #fg ,,ii ,,soups #hd ,,iii ,,fish #aab ,,iv ,,meats #ade ,v ,,poultry ,,and ,,game #agi ,,vi ,,vegetables #bjj ,,farinaceous ,,foods ,,used ,,as ,,vegetables #bbb ,,vii ,,macaroni #bbd ,,cereals #bbg ,,viii ,a ,,group ,,of ,,receipts ,,from ,a ,,new ,,england ,,kitchen #bbi ,,distinctively ,,southern ,,dishes #bdf ,,ix ,,very ,,inexpensive ,,dishes #bdi ,,miscellaneous ,,receipts #beg ,x ,,eggs #bfa ,,xi ,,sauces #bge ,,entrees #bib ,,xii ,,terrapin1 ,,frogs' ,,legs #caa ,,mushrooms #cad ,,xiii ,,aspic ,,jelly1 ,,fancy ,,molding1 ,,supports #cba ,,xiv ,,chafing-,,dish ,,receipts #cbi ,,xv ,,bread #cch ,,xvi ,,sandwiches ,,and ,,canapes #cfd ,,cheese ,,and ,,cheese ,,dishes #cfi ,,xvii ,,salads #cgd ,,xviii ,,cold ,,desserts #chf ,,xix ,,hot ,,desserts #dba ,,pudding ,,sauces #ddd ,,xx ,,pies #dej ,,puff ,,paste #deg ,,xxi ,,cake #dfb ,,icing ,,and ,,decorating ,,cakes #dhc ,,xxii ,,ice-,,creams1 ,,water-,,ices1 ,,parfaits1 ,,mousses1 ,,punches #dhh ,,xxiii ,,boiling ,,sugar ,,and ,,making ,,candies #eaj ,,xxiv ,,fruits1 ,,cooked ,,and ,,fresh #ebi ,,xxv ,,compotes1 ,,preserving ,,and ,,canning1 ,,pickles #ece ,,xxvi ,,beverages #edh ,,xxvii ,,wines #efj ,,the ,,century ,,cook ,,book ,,the ,,century ,,cook ,,book ,,part ,i ,,dinner-,,giving ,,and ,,the ,,etiquette ,,of ,,dinners ,to feed were best at home2 ,from thence1 the sauce to meat is ceremony1 ,meeting were bare without it4--,shakspere ,a dinner party may be considered as holding the highest rank among entertainments4 ,in no other social function is etiquette so strictly observed4 ,there are prescribed rules for the form of the invitation1 the manner of assigning each guest his place at the table1 the manner of serving the dinner1 etc42 and when these rules are followed there need be no embarrassments4 ,sidenote3 ,the ,company4 ,it should always be remembered that the social part of the entertainment is on a higher plane than the gastronomic one1 though the latter must by no means be slighted4 ,a sentiment expressed by the wit who said1 ,a fig for your bill of fare1 give me a bill of your company1 is generally felt1 and a hostess should bring together only such people as she believes will be mutually agreeable4 ,the idea1 given by ,goldsmith in his ,retaliation1 of looking upon one's friends as so many pleasant dishes1 is offered as a suggestion4 ,he says3 ,if our landlord supplies us with beef and with fish1 ,let each guest bring himself1 and he brings the best dish3 ,our ,dean shall be venison1 just fresh from the plains2 ,our ,burke shall be tongue1 with a garnish of brains2 ,our ,will shall be wild fowl of excellent flavour1 ,and ,dick with his pepper shall heighten the savour2 ,our ,cumberland's sweetbread its place shall obtain1 ,and ,douglas is pudding1 substantial and plain2 ,our ,garrick's a salad1 for in him we see ,oil1 vinegar1 sugar1 and saltness agree3444 ,at a dinner so various--at such a repast1 ,who'd not be a glutton1 and stick to the last8 ,sidenote3 ,the ,host and ,hostess4 ,the hostess should give her instructions for the details of the entertainment so explicitly that on the arrival of the guests she will have no care other than their pleasure4 ,if she is nervous1 has wandering eyes1 or shows constraint1 it affects sensibly the ease of her guests4 ,the spirit of pleasure is infectious1 and upon the demeanor of the hosts the success of the evening largely depends4 ,much tact may be shown in placing the right people together at the table4 ,if one is a great talker let the other be a good listener2 if one is dogmatic let the other be without positive views1 and so on2 for as every one is happiest when appearing well1 it is wise to consider the idiosyncrasies of the guests4 ',t is a great point in a gallery how you hang your pictures2 and not less in society how you seat your party4 ,sidenote3 ,the ,guests4 ,the part of the hosts is thus well defined2 but the guests1 too1 have their obligations1 and in recognition of the compliment of being included in an entertainment where the number of guests is limited to very few1 each one should make exertion to be agreeable1 as a dull dinner companion is a recognized misfortune4 ,at a dinner there is time1 not given at most other forms of entertainment1 for rational and sustained conversation1 and this may be turned to durance vile if one victimizes by egotism or caprice the person who without power of withdrawal is assigned to his or her society for perhaps two hours or more4 ,also1 if one finds oneself neighbor to some person for whom one has a personal antipathy1 it must not be allowed to interfere with the general pleasure2 and should such a situation occur1 there is nothing to do but to make the best of it1 and conceal from the hostess the mistake she has unwittingly made-- ,and do as adversaries do in law1 ,strive mightily1 but eat and drink as friends4 ,under these circumstances the discovery may possibly be made that an unfriendly person is more agreeable than was supposed1 and a pleasanter relationship may be established4 ,sidenote3 ,time4 ,two hours is the extreme limit of time that should be given to a dinner2 one hour and a quarter1 or a half1 is preferable4 ,eight courses served quickly1 but without seeming haste1 require as much time as most people can sit at the table without fatigue4 ,last impressions are as enduring as first ones1 so it is important not to surfeit1 for ,when fatigue enters into so-called pleasure1 failure begins4 ,judgment shown in combination of dishes1 the perfection of their preparation1 careful serving1 and taste in adornment1 are elements of refinement that far outweigh quantity and ostentation4 ,sidenote3 ,temperature4 ,the temperature and ventilation of the dining-room should be given careful attention4 ,the best of spirits and the brightest wit will flag in an overheated1 ill-ventilated room4 ,it is not always easy to maintain a fresh atmosphere where as many guests are seated as the size of the room permits1 but at least the room can be well aired before the dinner is served4 ,windows opened a very little from both the top and bottom in an adjoining room1 with a careful adjustment of screens to protect those who are sensitive to drafts1 will do much to keep the air fresh1 and will have a sensible effect upon the comfort and mental activity of the company4 ,sidenote3 ,the ,invitation4 ,invitations are sometimes sent out a month or three weeks in advance1 but ordinarily two weeks is sufficient time to secure the guests one wishes to entertain4 ,courtesy requires a dinner invitation to be answered at once1 certainly within twelve hours1 but better in less time4 ,this enables the hostess to fill the vacancy in case the invitation is declined4 ,unconventional people are sometimes unmindful of this obligation1 but as a rule those who are accustomed to entertaining recognize the importance of a prompt reply1 and answer a dinner invitation immediately4 ,it is well1 when convenient1 to send the invitation as well as the reply by hand1 so that there may be no uncertainty of prompt delivery2 to send either of them by post is1 however1 permissible4 ,the answer should be definite1 and where a man and his wife are invited1 if one of them is unable to accept1 the invitation should be declined for both4 ,an invitation should be precise in expression1 therefore the prescribed form given below should be exactly followed4 ,it does not belong to the order of social notes2 it is simply a formal invitation1 and an acceptance should be of the same character4 ,any deviation from the prescribed form is uncalled for and likely to cause criticism4 ,in declining the invitation1 however1 it is considered more gracious to answer the formal note informally1 and1 by stating the reason1 show that the regret is not merely a perfunctory expression4 ,verbal invitations or replies should never be given for formal entertainments4 ,r4 ,s4 ,v4 ,p4 should not be put on a dinner invitation4 ,every well-bred person knows an answer is necessary1 and it is a reflection upon good manners to assume that no reply would be given if the request for it were omitted4 ,it is important also that the reply should repeat1 in the same words as the invitation1 the date and hour of the dinner1 so1 if any mistake has inadvertently been made1 it may be corrected1 thus establishing an exact understanding4 ,a dinner engagement is the most exacting of any social obligation1 and no greater discourtesy can be shown than to break it except for serious cause4 ,sidenote3 ,form of ,invitation4 ,mr4 and ,mrs4 ,james ,j4 ,james request the pleasure of ,mr4 and ,mrs4 ,smith's company at dinner1 on ,monday1 ,december twenty-third1 at eight o'clock4 #ii ,west ,a ,street1 ,dec4 #ast4 ,envelop addressed to ,mrs4 ,john ,b4 ,smith4 99 99 99 99 99 ,sidenote3 ,reply4 ,mr4 and ,mrs4 ,john ,b4 ,smith accept with pleasure ,mr4 and ,mrs4 ,james's kind invitation to dinner on ,monday1 ,december twenty-third1 at eight o'clock4 #ff ,west ,b ,street1 ,dec4 #ast4 ,envelop addressed to ,mrs4 ,james ,j4 ,james4 ,mr4 and ,mrs4 ,john ,b4 ,smith regret that they are unable to accept ,mr4 and ,mrs4 ,james's kind invitation to dinner on ,monday1 ,december twenty-third1 at eight o'clock4 #ff ,west ,b ,street1 ,dec4 #ast4 ,,or1 ,mr4 and ,mrs4 ,john ,b4 ,smith regret that owing to a previous engagement they are unable to accept ,mr4 and ,mrs4 ,james's kind invitation to dinner on ,monday1 ,december twenty-third1 at eight o'clock4 #ff ,west ,b ,street1 ,dec4 #ast4 99 99 99 99 99 ,where an invitation is meant to be informal1 a social form of note with formal phraseology is often sent1 thus3 ,my dear ,mrs4 ,smith3 ,will you and ,mr4 ,smith dine with us informally on ,thursday evening1 ,december twenty-third1 at eight o'clock8 ,sincerely yours1 ,mary ,james4 #ii ,west ,a ,street1 ,dec4 #ast4 ,this form of invitation is sometimes misleading to strangers1 as the word informal is open to different interpretations4 ,these dinners are generally quite as formal as the others1 and require the same toilet4 ,a woman's dinner dress should be decollete1 and for a man evening dress is always de rigueur4 ,sidenote3 ,dress4 ,the butler wears a dress suit with white tie4 ,the footman1 or second man1 wears the livery of the family1 or1 in default of that1 a coat of dark color1 with brass buttons1 and a bright-colored striped waistcoat4 ,the dining-room maid wears a plain black dress1 a white apron that covers completely the front of her skirt1 a linen collar and deep cuffs1 and a small white cap1 with or without strings1 but no crown4 ,everything in a well-ordered household is supposed to be clean1 including the hands of the domestics1 and the use of white gloves is not permissible4 ,first-class butlers and footmen do not wear mustaches4 ,sidenote3 ,arrival4 ,guests are expected at the hour mentioned in the invitation1 and should be as near that time as possible4 ,in large cities1 where distances are great and exact time difficult to calculate1 a little grace is allowed1 but the hostess is not expected to wait longer than fifteen minutes for a tardy guest4 ,it is considered a breach of etiquette to be late1 and the assumption is1 when this occurs1 that the delay is unavoidable and will be indefinite1 and so the other guests should not be inconvenienced4 ,at large dinners a gentleman finds in the dressing-room1 or a servant passes to him before he enters the drawing-room1 a tray holding small addressed envelops4 ,he selects the one bearing his own name1 and finds on an inclosed card the name of the lady he is to take to the table4 ,the letter ,r or ,l in the corner of the card denotes whether he will find his place on the right or left of the table from the entrance4 ,if he does not know the lady1 he should tell the hostess1 so that he may be presented to her4 ,the hostess stands near the door to receive her guests1 and such introductions follow as can conveniently be made4 ,if general introductions are omitted1 guests are expected to act as though acquainted1 and speak to whomever they may be near4 ,this rule holds good for all entertainments in some countries1 but ,americans continue a reserve except at dinners1 where barriers to ease and pleasure must not exist4 ,the hostess does not knowingly bring together people who object to meet one another1 but in such an event the acquaintanceship need not extend beyond the evening1 and good breeding requires a courteous recognition of the friends of the hostess while under her roof4 ,sidenote3 ,announcement4 ,the butler keeps count of the arrival of expected guests1 and announces dinner shortly after all are in the drawing-room4 ,in case of a tardy guest he waits for the hostess to order the dinner served4 ,he then enters the room1 and1 looking at the host or hostess1 says1 ,dinner is served1 or ,madam is served1 or simply bows to the hostess4 ,sidenote3 ,precedence4 ,the host then offers his right arm to the lady who is to sit at his right1 and leads the way into the dining-room2 the other couples follow in any order that is convenient4 ,the hostess1 with the gentleman she honors with the seat at her right1 are the last to leave the drawing-room4 ,if a distinguished man is present1 it is to him this courtesy is shown4 ,except in official and diplomatic circles1 there is no other rule of precedence4 ,if the ,president of the ,united ,states or a royal personage were being entertained1 the hostess with this dignitary would then precede the others4 ,at each cover is laid a card on which is distinctly written the name of the person who is to occupy that place4 ,confusion is thus avoided in seating the guests4 ,it has been a fashion to have these cards artistic and elaborate in design1 but at present plain gilt-edged cards stamped with the family crest or monogram are more generally used4 ,sidenote3 ,departure4 ,when the dinner is finished1 the gentlemen return to the drawing-room with the ladies1 and then withdraw to the smoking-room for half an hour4 ,shortly after their return to the drawing-room the guests take their leave4 ,if guests of honor are present1 they are the first to go4 ,,manner ,,of ,,serving ,,dinners ,the custom of serving dinner a la ,russe 7dishes passed7 has supplanted the form known as the ,english style1 where the joints are carved on the table4 ,this is for good reason1 as the host cannot well fulfil his social part if he has to do the carving2 therefore1 unless on very informal occasions1 when the number of servants may be insufficient1 the carving is done on the side-table1 or the garnished dishes are cut in the kitchen4 ,the portions1 whether carved or otherwise1 are placed on dishes to be passed1 and should be so arranged that each guest may remove a part easily and without destroying the symmetry of the whole4 ,this need not preclude attractive garnishing1 but such complicated constructions as are sometimes seen1 which embarrass one to find how to break them1 should be avoided4 ,sometimes a dish is placed on the table to be shown1 and then removed to be served4 ,sidenote3 ,passing the ,dishes4 ,the dishes are presented on the left side4 ,those of the first course are passed first to the lady sitting on the right of the host1 and then in regular order to the right around the table4 ,the dishes of each following course are started at some distance from the place where the preceding one was presented4 ,in this way the same person is not left always to be served last4 ,sidenote3 ,number of ,servants4 ,at least one servant is needed for every six persons1 otherwise the service will be slow and tedious1 and the portion placed on one's plate becomes cold before the accompaniments of sauce or vegetable can be passed4 ,many dishes may be garnished with the vegetable or sauce1 thus obviating in a measure this difficulty4 ,for large dinners two or more dishes should be arranged to pass on opposite sides of the table1 so that every one may be served at about the same time4 ,plates1 vegetable1 and other large dishes are held in the hand of the servant4 ,small dishes1 like hors d'oeuvres1 bonbon dishes1 etc41 are passed on a tray4 ,sidenote3 ,wines4 ,when the wines are served1 the servant should name the wine offered1 so that it may be refused if not wanted2 the glasses should not be filled entirely full4 ,sidenote3 ,plates4 ,when a plate is removed it should be immediately replaced by another one holding a fork or any piece of silver or cutlery which is needed for the next course4 ,plates should be removed with the left and replaced with the right hand4 ,care should be taken that plates for the hot dishes are warm1 but not hot1 and that for the cold dishes they are not lukewarm4 ,the plate holding the shell-fish is placed upon the one already on the table2 this under plate is used also to hold the soup plate1 but double plates are not again used until the end of the dinner1 when the dessert plate holding the finger-bowl plate is put on4 ,in case a hot sweet dish is served1 the double plates1 being intended for ices1 fruits1 and bonbons1 are not put on until after that course4 ,silver serving-dishes are much used2 lacking these1 all the china used in the same course should match when possible4 ,sidenote3 ,china4 ,sidenote3 ,care of ,china4 ,a different set of plates may be used with each course4 ,in the matter of china the greatest latitude of taste and expense is possible1 some china being more valuable than its weight in silver4 ,when handsome china is being used1 which demands great care in handling1 it is well to have a table in the pantry reserved for its use1 where it can be carefully piled and left until the following morning to be washed4 ,with daylight and ample time1 it can be given the care it might not receive if washed after the fatigue and late hours of a long dinner4 ,this need not necessarily mean leaving a disordered pantry for the night1 although that would be of less consequence than the extra risk of having valuable china nicked or broken4 ,the same care is recommended for handsome glass4 ,sidenote3 ,clearing the ,table4 ,before the dessert is served1 all the plates1 the small silver1 the salt- and pepper-boxes1 the hors d'oeuvres1 and such glasses as will not be again used are removed2 the crumbs are then taken off1 a silver crumb knife and a plate being used for this purpose4 ,the dessert and finger-bowl plates are then put on4 ,under the finger-bowl is placed a small fancy doily1 and beside it on the same plate such small silver as will be needed4 ,if peaches1 or any fruit which will stain1 are to be served1 a fruit doily should also be given at this time and laid beside the place4 ,the finger-bowl should be filled one third with water1 and have a thin slice of lemon1 a scented leaf1 or a flower floating in it4 ,sidenote3 ,the ,service4 ,the service should be entirely noiseless1 and the machinery of the household as invisible as possible4 ,there should be no rattling of china or silver1 no creaking boots1 or heavy tread1 or audible speech among the servants4 ,sidenote3 ,ordering the ,dinner4 ,when entertaining one should not attempt more than one is sure of being able to attain1 bearing in mind the capabilities of the cook and the range1 and remembering that the quality of the dishes rather than the number of them is what pleases4 ,experiments should be made at times when failure is of less consequence4 ,in arranging the menu1 each course should be in pleasing contrast to the preceding one1 and in the same course only such dishes should be served as go well together4 ,butter is not served at dinner4 ,,laying ,,the ,,table ,sidenote3 ,the ,table4 ,a round or square table five feet across is a convenient size for ordinary use1 giving ample room for six people1 and leaving space for decoration4 ,large round tops are made to fit over extension-tables1 which will seat from twelve to twenty or more people2 and when the size of the room will permit1 this is the pleasantest form of table for entertainments1 and best lends itself to decorative effects1 giving to each person a complete picture of the table and of the company assembled4 ,sidenote3 ,the ,linen4 ,a thick cotton material1 which is made for the purpose1 for interlining between table and cloth1 is the first requisite in laying the table1 and should always be used4 ,it protects the polished surface of the table from injury1 gives a more brilliant whiteness to the cloth1 and prevents any noise when placing the china and silver upon the table4 ,the linen should be as fine as the purse will allow4 ,handsome linen will give elegance to a table where ornamentation is very simple4 ,it should be ironed without starch1 or with a very little if it is not sufficiently heavy to take polish without it4 ,it should be folded perfectly square1 so that the lines will be straight1 and should be of spotless and dazzling whiteness4 ,with this as a basis1 there will be no difficulty in making an attractive table4 ,in the way of linen1 much taste may be shown in the ornamental pieces used in the center of the table4 ,these may be of any shape or size desired1 from a small square to a long scarf4 ,they may be of embroidered linen1 drawn-work1 lace1 plain silk or satin2 but wash materials are preferable1 and effects of color1 when desired1 can be obtained in the embroidery or linings4 ,the attractiveness of these pieces depends on their daintiness4 ,the fashion of a center-piece of linen is1 however1 a passing one1 as they are not at present so generally used4 ,sidenote3 ,the order of laying the ,table4 ,after the interlining has been spread1 the cloth should be laid with great care1 making the center fold run perfectly straight with the room1 and the cross fold again exactly divide the table at right angles to the other crease4 ,by these straight lines1 everything else is gaged4 ,the fancy linen piece is next laid1 and its center must coincide with that of the cloth4 ,if the piece is square1 it sometimes has better effect to place the points on the long lines of the cloth1 giving it a diamond shape2 this1 however1 is a matter of fancy4 ,the center ornament is then placed on the exact point where the folds of the cloth cross in the middle of the table4 ,the plates are next put in position1 attention being given to the decoration on the china1 if it be a monogram that it is right side up1 if flowers that they are in natural position1 etc4 ,where there are an uneven number of covers it is better to place the plates at equal distances around the table1 without regard to the place of the hostess being opposite to that of the host4 ,in other cases1 the plates at the head and foot of the table1 and those on the sides1 should be directly opposite each other4 ,under no circumstances must the plates be omitted4 ,on the left of the plates place the forks2 three or four may be put on and laid in the order in which they will be used4 ,three knives 7one of them being a silver knife for the fish course7 and the oyster fork are placed on the right of the plate2 the soup spoon may go in front of the plate or with the knives on the right2 the bowls of the forks and spoons should be right side up1 the edges of the knives turned toward the plate4 ,illustration3 ,,diagram ,,of ,,table4 ,a4 ,plates4 ,b4 ,plant1 ,flowers1 ,fruit1 ,lamp1 or ornamental piece of silver4 ,c4 ,compotiers1 holding cakes1 fruit1 or flowers4 ,d4 ,candlesticks or ,candelabra4 ,e4 ,salt and ,pepper ,boxes4 ,f4 ,water and ,wine ,glasses4 ,g4 ,bonbons1 or ,hors d',o,euvres1 or ,carafes4 ,h4 ,bonbons1 or ,hors d',o,euvres4 ,illustration3 ,,detail ,,of ,,one ,,cover4 ,sidenote3 ,the ,decoration4 ,after the plates and small silver and cutlery are in position1 the decorating of the table should proceed as far as possible4 ,the position for everything can be best determined after the plates are laid4 ,the perishable articles1 that cannot be put on until the last moment1 can usually have their position located by the compotiers or the bonbon dishes which will hold them4 ,uniformity is not required in having two or four of these dishes to match1 but such ornamental holders as are used must be placed in uniform positions1 so as to balance and harmonize4 ,any deviation from this rule1 or neglect of the small details in placing the table furniture1 will give the effect of a disordered table4 ,sidenote3 ,lights4 ,the candlesticks1 or candelabra1 as the case may be1 should be so placed as not to obstruct the views across the table4 ,this may be determined by two persons taking seats on opposite sides of the table1 viewing each other from different places1 and moving the candelabra until the right position is found1 which usually will not be more than an inch or two either way4 ,it is well to give attention to this matter1 as comfort is much disturbed and conversation interrupted from shutting out by this kind of screen the different persons at the table4 ,before being placed on the table candles should be fitted firmly and straight in their sockets1 be lighted for a few minutes1 and then the wicks should be cut and the shades fitted squarely upon the holders4 ,this will prevent smoking1 dripping and other annoyances that may occur if it is not done4 ,shade-holders that fit the top of the candle are very objectionable and dangerous1 but those that clasp the candle below the heated part give little trouble4 ,salt- and pepper-boxes are placed at the corners of the table1 or within easy reach of every two people if more than four are used4 ,if carafes are used the same rule is observed4 ,after the decoration of the table is completed as far as possible1 the glasses are put on4 ,there is danger of their being broken if put on before4 ,they are placed in uniform groups at the right of the plates3 the water glass nearest the plate1 and the wine-glass to be first used nearest the edge of the table4 ,port and ,madeira glasses are not put on until the time for serving those wines1 which is at the end of the dinner4 ,the napkin1 folded in triangular shape1 the embroidered monogram on top1 is laid on the plate1 and a piece of bread cut two inches long and one and a half inches thick1 or more generally a dinner roll1 is laid in the fold1 but left in full sight1 so that it will not be shaken on to the floor when the napkin is lifted4 ,sidenote3 ,the ,sideboard4 ,everything that will be needed in serving the dinner should be convenient to hand4 ,the plates to be warmed should be in the hot closet2 those for the cold courses1 the finger-bowls1 extra small silver and cutlery1 extra rolls and cracked ice1 should be on the sideboard1 so that there will be no delay in getting them when needed4 ,foot-stools placed under the table for the ladies add much to their comfort4 ,,table ,,decoration ,there is wide range for individual taste and artistic arrangement in table decoration1 which is limited only by the resources at one's command4 ,pleasing effects of color are perhaps the first consideration4 ,of late it has been a fashion to have one prevailing color4 ,in many cases this is very suitable as well as complimentary to the guests entertained4 ,for instance1 a white dinner to a bride1 pink to young people1 red to a ,harvard company1 or yellow to those with ,princeton affiliations4 ,the scheme of color is often carried through the menu as far as possible2 the dishes served corresponding in color to the table decorations4 ,where this is done the colors should be light and delicate4 ,dark shades are not pleasing1 and suggest the name painted foods1 which has been scornfully given to them4 ,of all colors green is the easiest to carry out1 and perhaps the most pleasing4 ,the many shades of green give variety and contrasts4 ,ferns make a light and dainty centerpiece1 and rival flowers in beauty4 ,for the menu spinach gives a soup1 vegetable1 and coloring for sauces4 ,green salads are numerous4 ,angelica makes a decoration for desserts4 ,pistachio nuts give flavor and color to ice-cream1 icings1 and bonbons4 ,a very beautiful and elaborate dinner on this scheme is described below1 which was called in the invitation ,al ,fresco1 and in its design and execution well simulated an out-door entertainment4 ,green is a soft1 reposeful color2 red1 pink1 and yellow are gayer1 and give a more festive aspect4 ,yellow is sunny in effect1 and for a yellow dinner the color scheme may be obtained with yellow flowers1 oranges1 silver-gilt compotiers1 gilded china1 and with light diffused through yellow shades4 ,for the culinary part the yolks of eggs render important service for coloring1 covering1 and garnishing1 and oranges furnish many delicious dishes4 ,white dinners are also easy to arrange with white flowers1 silver1 a profusion of cut-glass1 lace shades1 white grapes1 spun sugar1 whipped cream1 white sauces1 celery1 whites of eggs1 white meats1 etc4 ,a white dinner is likely to be too severe1 however1 unless carefully managed4 ,delicate ferns can be mixed with white flowers without changing the effect1 and a warm glow may be thrown on the table from a center light in the chandelier1 screened with thin pink or yellow silk1 and raised high1 so as not to appear as a part of the decoration4 ,the most beautiful pictures of snow scenes are not a dead white1 but reflect the color of the sunset or atmosphere4 ,fruits and flowers typical of the season are in good taste1 and usually more pleasing than hot-house products4 ,in the spring1 tulips1 daffodils1 lilies of the valley1 or any wild flowers4 ,goldenrod1 chrysanthemums1 and asters in their times4 ,autumn leaves and berries later1 holly and mistletoe at ,christmas1 and lilies at ,easter1 while in the summer the fields and lanes afford a wealth of material4 ,at other times1 and where the purse does not permit indulgence in roses and forced flowers1 the resources lie in potted plants and fruits4 ,any plant not too large1 which looks fresh and healthy1 will make a pleasing centerpiece4 ,the crotons and dracaenas give beautiful colors4 ,a dish of growing ferns makes an attractive1 satisfactory and enduring center ornament4 ,with care the ferns will last a long time1 and at small expense can be renewed4 ,double silver-plated boxes1 both square and oval1 are made for this use4 ,fruits are always pleasing and give good color effects4 ,the success of any decoration depends largely upon the proper lighting of the table2 lacking this1 beautiful arrangements may appear commonplace or wholly lose their effect4 ,the decorated dinner-table should be the especial picture of the room1 the conspicuous object of interest and beauty for the time2 therefore the light should be centered upon it and the rest of the room form but the shadowy background4 ,the pleasantest light is from shaded single candles1 placed at intervals around the table1 and a more brilliant light thrown on the center of the table from the shaded drop-light of a chandelier1 or from large candelabra holding groups of candles4 ,small lamps which fit candlesticks are much used1 and when there are open windows and drafts they give much less trouble than candles4 ,effects of color are largely obtained from the use of shades4 ,these vary in size and shape to suit the fancy or fashion of the moment1 and are made of silk1 lace1 or paper2 for the latter1 crape papers are much used4 ,shades recently brought from ,paris were of translucent paper painted by hand to imitate china4 ,making shades is pleasant fancy work1 and the materials are so inexpensive that one can easily indulge in a variety of them4 ,with a centerpiece of polished red apples and candles with red shades1 or a potted plant and green shades1 quite a definite and pleasing character may be given to a simple dinner4 ,high ornaments should be avoided except they be candelabra or lamps which do not obstruct the view across the table4 ,it is very annoying to be forced to look around ornaments when trying to talk to a person seated opposite at table2 such a screen effectually debars general conversation4 ,on large or long tables1 large ornamental pieces should be used4 ,those appropriate to a small table often appear scanty and insufficient on a large one4 ,masses of one color are more effective than mixtures1 and a display of abundance may be made on large tables while on small ones daintiness is more pleasing4 ,confectioner's pieces are again being used for dinner decorations4 ,baskets and horns of plenty made of nougat or pulled sugar1 holding glace fruits1 and forms made of spun sugar are in good taste1 but imitations of art objects and high pyramids1 such as are used on supper tables1 should be excluded4 ,a pleasing decoration for a hot day may be made of a block of ice set in a pan deep enough to hold the drippings1 but placed on something to raise it above the sides of the pan4 ,the pan should be concealed with moss and ferns1 or flowers1 arranged around it loosely so as to partly conceal the ice also4 ,a hole cut through the center of the block of ice1 and a flat candle1 such as are used in night lamps1 placed within it1 gives a brilliant and lovely effect4 ,the block of ice should be cut square and weigh at least ten pounds4 ,this decoration is easily managed in the country1 where ferns are readily obtainable4 ,illustration3 ,,round ,,dinner-,,table ,,with ,,eighteen ,,covers--,,cloth ,,of ,,pink ,,india ,,silk ,,covered ,,with ,,lace--,,center ,,ornament ,,of ,,ferns--,,bunch ,,of ,,pink ,,roses ,,in ,,front ,,of ,,each ,,cover4 ,a pan filled with floating water-lilies1 together with their buds and leaves1 the pan being concealed in a bed of moss and ferns1 makes also a pretty decoration for a luncheon table4 ,these flowers close at night1 and so are only suitable for daylight service4 ,a table may be made beautiful by entirely covering it with a mass of the same kind of flowers1 leaving only enough space around the edge to hold the plates and glasses4 ,the flowers may or may not be raised in the center of the table1 or may in any way simulate a garden-bed4 ,when daisies are used they should be plentifully mixed with grasses as they are in the field4 ,care must be used not to make the decoration high1 or the effect will be lost2 and to avoid this the stems of the flowers1 cut the desired length1 can be stuck into wet sand or moss1 held in flat tins4 ,this will hold them firmly in place1 as well as keep them fresh4 ,an ,english fashion is to have a piece of silver ornament the table1 without accessories of fruits or flowers4 ,this severe but elegant simplicity is perhaps a reaction from the overloading of tables which has long prevailed4 ,a pink dinner given in ,washington was arranged as follows3 ,the table was round and large enough to seat eighteen persons4 ,a covering of thin ivory-colored ,india silk over pink was cut round to fit the table1 and a frill of lace ten inches deep fell over a ruffle of pink silk on the edge4 ,a large square of silk gauze embroidered in pink covered the center of the table4 ,a mound of maiden-hair ferns formed the centerpiece4 ,around this were placed pink candles in ,venetian-glass candlesticks and shaded with full frills of lace over pink4 ,the bonbon dishes and all the glasses were of ,venetian and ,bohemian glass4 ,four ornamental candy pieces were used3 two were garden hats holding glazed cherries1 and a pink ribbon tied around each hat held a large bunch of pink roses4 ,the other two were baskets1 and held frosted grapes which were half hidden under spun sugar4 ,ornamental silver was omitted1 as being out of harmony with the other decorations4 ,a dinner unique in its character was given a few years ago by ,lord ,dufferin1 the ,english ambassador to ,france4 ,the centerpiece was flowers1 and candelabra lighted the table2 but in place of the dessert dishes which ordinarily do ornamental service were choice bits of bric-a-brac collected by the ambassador in various parts of the world4 ,the curios served as an interesting novelty1 and became the subject of conversation4 ,a dinner given in ,jamaica is described1 where orchids in profusion were suspended over the table1 some on climbing vines1 and others1 of such delicate form and texture as made it seem not unnatural1 appeared as though floating in the air4 ,the ,al ,fresco dinner referred to above was in imitation of a woodland scene4 ,it was served in a dining-room the walls of which were hung with tapestries4 ,the ceiling decoration was blue sky with white clouds4 ,a profusion of palms1 bay-trees1 and rubber-plants were placed about the room and screened the side-boards4 ,the dining-table was a mass of verdure4 ,it was round1 seating eighteen persons4 ,the whole center of the table was depressed eight inches1 leaving an outside rim fourteen inches wide for the plates and glasses4 ,the center space was filled with growing plants1 the top of the pots being on a level with the outside rim4 ,the pots were concealed by mosses and loose ferns making a solid mass of green4 ,four tall slender plants rose from the center1 the rest was of ferns and lycopodium with here and there a few primroses4 ,green candles with fluffy green shades in glass candlesticks were so distributed as to give sufficient light4 ,the space left for the dinner service was covered with light-green ,india silk over canton flannel4 ,on the back of the menu cards were water-color sketches of forest scenes4 ,the menu was largely composed of products of the forest4 ,the aspect of this dinner was really sylvan1 and the idea so well carried out that the elaboration of it was artistically hidden4 ,from the time of ,lucullus1 dinner-givers have been striving for novelties1 but as a rule any radical departure from conventional forms is a failure4 ,,menu ,,of ,,the ,,al ,,fresco ,,dinner ,soup ,cream of ,celery 7colored green74 ,fish ,brook ,trout1 ,butter ,sauce4 ,entree ,mushrooms on ,crusts4 ,roast ,saddle of ,venison4 ,wild plum sauce4 ,saratoga potatoes4 ,green peas served in fontage cups4 ,salpicon of ,fruits au ,rhum4 ,game and ,salad ,quails in nests of ,puree of ,chestnuts4 ,english ,walnuts and ,celery mixed with green ,mayonnaise in cups of molded tomato jelly4 ,cheese ,small balls of ,cream-cheese1 colored green to imitate bird's eggs1 in nests of shredded ,lettuce4 ,hot ,entremet ,individual ,nut ,puddings 7burning74 ,dessert ,pistache ,ice ,cream ,pralinee1 molded in a ring1 the center filled with whipped cream4 ,white cakes with green icing4 ,fruits4 ,coffee4 ,,courses ,the order of the dinner service is soup1 fish1 flesh1 fowl4 ,these may be supplemented to any extent with entremets and entrees4 ,mets are the principal dishes4 ,entremets1 the dishes served between the mets4 ,entrees1 dishes which are served between any of the courses4 ,sidenote3 ,first ,course4 ,i4 ,course4 ,canapes of caviare1 small bits of anchovy toast1 or in their season muskmelons1 are sometimes served as the first course1 but ordinarily oysters or clams on the half shell is the first dish presented4 ,the smallest-sized shell-fish are preferable to the large ones4 ,one half dozen are served on each plate and placed symmetrically on or around a bed of cracked ice2 a quarter of a lemon cut lengthwise is placed in the center4 ,cayenne pepper and grated horse-radish are passed with this course1 also very thin slices of brown bread buttered and folded together1 then cut into small squares or triangular-shaped pieces4 ,the plates holding the shell-fish may be placed on the table before dinner is announced2 but as there is no place to conveniently lay the folded napkin except on the plate1 it is as well not to serve the mollusks until the guests are seated4 ,sidenote3 ,second ,course3 ,soup4 ,,ii4 ,course3 ,soup4 ,it is better to serve a clear soup when the dinner is to be of many courses1 as heavy soups are too hearty4 ,the choice of two kinds of soup may be offered4 ,grated ,parmesan cheese may be passed with clear soups1 dice of fried bread with cream soups1 and toasted cracker biscuits with any kind of soup4 ,one ladleful of soup is sufficient for each person1 and a second portion is not offered4 ,an anecdote is told of a punctilious person who1 being asked if he would be helped again to soup1 answered1 ,thanks1 not to-day4 ,hors d'oeuvres1 which are radishes1 celery1 olives1 etc41 are passed after the soup4 ,salted almonds are taken at any time through the dinner4 ,sidenote3 ,third ,course3 ,fish4 ,,iii4 ,course3 ,fish4 ,fish1 if boiled or fried1 is served upon a napkin4 ,if baked no napkin is used1 and a little sauce is spread on the dish4 ,boiled potatoes are served with boiled fish1 and are more attractive when cut with a potato-scoop into small balls4 ,cucumbers dressed with oil and vinegar are also served with fish4 ,sidenote3 ,fourth ,course3 ,entrees4 ,,iv4 ,course3 ,entrees4 ,entrees can be served between any of the courses1 or they may be omitted altogether2 but a variety of attractive dishes come under this head1 and usually one is served after the fish4 ,sidenote3 ,fifth ,course3 ,vegetables4 ,v4 ,course3 ,vegetables4 ,a vegetable1 such as asparagus1 artichokes1 cauliflower1 is served at this time1 although the ,french reserve the vegetable until after the joint4 ,only one vegetable besides potato is permitted with a meat course1 and if more are wanted they are served as a separate course4 ,sidenote3 ,sixth ,course4 ,,vi4 ,course4 ,the joint with one green vegetable and potato4 ,sidenote3 ,seventh ,course4 ,,vii4 ,course4 ,frozen punch1 when served1 comes between the meat and game courses4 ,it is not passed1 but a glassful standing on a plate1 with a coffee spoon beside it1 is placed before each person4 ,if preferred1 a cheese omelet or souffle may be used instead of punch for this course4 ,sidenote3 ,eighth ,course4 ,,viii4 ,course3 ,game and ,salad1 or ,poultry and ,salad4 ,game is usually not passed1 but the portions are laid on the individual plates by the butler4 ,this is done in order to serve it as hot as possible4 ,a small cold plate is sometimes given for the salad2 crescent-shaped plates are made for this use4 ,with ducks1 celery and small squares of fried hominy are served4 ,when game or poultry is not used1 cheese may be served with the salad1 or cheese-straws instead of cheese4 ,when salad is served with game or poultry1 cheese and crackers may be served immediately afterward as a separate course1 or they may be passed after the dessert4 ,sidenote3 ,ninth ,course4 ,,ix4 ,course4 ,sweet puddings1 souffles1 ,bavarian cream1 etc4 ,sidenote3 ,tenth ,course4 ,x4 ,course4 ,ice-cream or any frozen dessert4 ,cakes and brandied peaches1 preserved ginger1 or wine-jellies may be passed with ice-cream4 ,sidenote3 ,eleventh ,course4 ,,xi4 ,course4 ,fruit1 fresh or glace1 and bonbons4 ,sidenote3 ,twelfth ,course4 ,,xii4 ,course4 ,coffee1 liqueurs4 ,of the courses given above1 the first1 fourth1 fifth1 and seventh1 and a choice of either the ninth or tenth1 may all1 or any one of them1 be omitted4 ,black coffee in small cups is passed on a tray1 with cream and sugar1 in the drawing- and smoking-rooms after the guests have left the table4 ,apollinaris or other sparkling water is passed later1 and is usually welcomed4 ,,the ,,home ,,dinner ,at the every-day or family dinner there will naturally be less elaboration in the decoration of the table1 and fewer courses1 than when the dinner is an occasion of entertainment1 but so far as the appointments reach they should be observed with the same precision and care4 ,the dinner has always something of a ceremonious character1 being the time when the family all meet with the leisure to enjoy one another's society after the labors of the day are done4 ,it is well1 therefore1 to attend to the few material details which aid in making the occasion an agreeable one4 ,refinements are more clearly shown at table than elsewhere1 and the influences of decorum at dinner are more subtle than are always recognized4 ,let the linen be as spotless and white1 the silver and glass as polished1 and the dishes1 however few1 be as carefully prepared as though guests were present4 ,the simplest dinner so ordered will give pleasure and satisfaction4 ,when attention to details is practised every day1 company will cause no agitation in the household4 ,the refinements of the table are within the means of the humblest4 ,a word may also be said for manners at the home table4 ,the habit of fault-finding1 commenting upon the dishes and wines1 correcting the mistakes of servants while at the table1 making apologies1 etc41 is reprehensible1 inefficacious and vulgar1 and not only interrupts conversation1 but spoils the pleasure of the dinner hour4 ,it is always difficult1 and often impossible1 to improve a dish after it is served2 therefore1 it is better to accept it without remark4 ,if the housekeeper1 who is always the first to observe faults in the service1 can conceal her discomfiture1 it is but right for the others to be considerate4 ,faults often pass unnoticed if attention is not called to them4 ,dr4 ,johnson1 it is said1 always complained of his dinners1 but never omitted to say grace4 ,upon one such occasion his wife interrupted him1 saying1 ,nay1 hold1 ,mr4 ,johnson6 ,do not make a farce of thanking ,god for a dinner which in a few minutes you will pronounce uneatable4 ,the home table1 with its every-day appointments1 causing one to blush in the event of a friend's unexpected arrival1 is not to be excused in this day of advanced women in the nineteenth century1 when higher education has at least taught them to regard their domestic duties in the light of a science and an art4 ,there are many simple dishes that can be quickly prepared which will give the dinner a little more complimentary character1 and supply the little extra that may be needed when more are present than were originally provided for4 ,a beefsteak can be virtually enlarged by serving with it a mushroom sauce1 for the mushrooms1 having the same elements of nutrition as the meat1 permit the latter to be served in smaller portions4 ,a simple entree1 such as a dish of macaroni1 a scallop dish1 a mince1 with good sauce 7which is easily made where the stock pot is ever ready71 a cheese omelet1 a vegetable salad1 etc41 etc41 are suggested as a few of the dishes1 which are called by the ,french plats d'amitie1 and should enable any woman to enjoy the pleasure of entertaining unexpected guests in a hospitable manner4 ,,serving ,,the ,,informal ,,dinner ,in laying the table for an informal dinner1 where the carving is to be done on the table1 a napkin to protect the cloth is spread at the carver's place4 ,very pretty fancy pieces are made for this use1 but an ordinary dinner napkin will do4 ,this is not removed until the table is cleared for the dessert4 ,when the carving is done on the table1 the soup and dessert are usually served by the lady of the house1 and the salad is also dressed on the table1 and then passed4 ,so far as the service will allow1 however1 it is pleasanter to have everything passed that does not need cutting4 ,the vegetable dishes should never be placed on the table4 ,when the joint is put on the table1 warm plates in a pile are set at the left of1 or before the carver1 and when a portion is served1 the plate is lifted by the servant and placed before the person for whom it is intended1 without the use of a tray4 ,the plates placed on the table when it is laid are used for holding the soup plates1 and are not removed until the ones holding the portions of the next course are exchanged for them2 if the succeeding course is to be passed1 warm or cold plates1 as the course requires1 are in turn exchanged for them2 but if the course is to be served from the table1 the places are meanwhile left without covers4 ,there should always be a plate before each person except in this instance1 and when the table is cleared for dessert4 ,sharpening the carving-knife is a trial to the nerves of many1 and this infliction can be easily avoided by having it done before dinner is announced4 ,many good carvers1 however1 seem to delight in this preliminary operation and are unconscious of committing an act of impoliteness4 ,the attractiveness of a dish may be wholly lost by unskilful carving1 and the appetite may be destroyed by an overloaded plate4 ,where but one substantial dish is served1 it is permissible to be helped a second time4 ,the dish can be removed to the side-table1 and the second portions helped by the servant1 if the carver does not care to be interrupted in his own dinner after he has performed the office of cutting the joint4 ,the sense of sight should always be considered1 even though it cost the trouble of replenishing a dish4 ,no more than can be used on one plate is served at the same time at any well appointed table4 ,one vegetable only1 besides potatoes1 is served with the roast2 if more are used1 they are served as courses separately4 ,,luncheon ,the luncheon service does not differ materially from that of dinner4 ,lighter dishes are usually served1 entrees taking the place of joints and roasts1 and the soup or bouillon is served in cups instead of soup plates4 ,grape fruit1 or a fruit salad1 is often an acceptable first course4 ,when the table has a handsome and polished surface the cloth may be left off if desired and a fancy square take its place4 ,in this case small squares may also be used under the plates to protect the table and in such other places as needed4 ,drawn-work linen squares over mahogany make an attractive luncheon table4 ,when a large number of guests are being entertained at luncheon1 small tables placed in the different rooms 7and on the piazzas1 if in the country7 are often used1 and these do not admit of more than the slight decoration of a few flowers4 ,luncheons of this kind are usually of an informal character and secondary to some entertainment which has preceded them4 ,a few simple menus for luncheons are given below4 ,,menus ,,for ,,luncheon ,no4 #a4 ,grape ,fruit4 ,bouillon4 ,oyster ,patties4 ,chops and ,peas4 ,quail1 ,lettuce ,salad4 ,ice-,cream4 ,cake4 ,tea4 ,no4 #b4 ,melon4 ,clams on ,half-shell4 ,cold ,salmon1 ,sauce ,tartare4 ,filets ,mignons1 ,sauce ,bearnaise4 ,omelet ,souffle4 ,cheese4 ,coffee4 ,no4 #c4 ,grape ,fruit4 ,bouillon4 ,shad ,roe4 ,broiled ,chicken4 ,green ,peas4 ,russian ,salad4 ,ice-,cream and ,jelly4 ,angel ,cake4 ,tea4 ,no4 #d4 ,bouillon4 ,lobster a la ,newburg4 ,eggs ,villeroi4 ,sweetbreads and ,peas4 ,french ,chops1 ,potato ,straws4 ,russian ,salad of ,chicken ,aspic1 ,celery and ,walnuts 7see receipt74 ,plum-,pudding ,glace4 ,coffee4 ,no4 #e4 ,chicken ,consomme4 ,lobster ,chops4 ,mushrooms on ,toast4 ,sweetbreads and ,peas4 ,frozen ,punch4 ,quails on ,toast4 ,pate de ,foie ,gras en ,bellevue4 ,lettuce4 ,charlotte ,russe4 ,no4 #f4 ,clams4 ,eggs a la ,reine4 ,planked ,shad4 ,cucumbers4 ,broiled ,squabs4 ,vegetable ,salad4 ,ice-,cream4 ,cheese4 ,fruit4 ,no4 #g4 ,salpicon of ,fruit4 ,cream of ,clams4 ,salmon ,cutlets1 ,cucumbers4 ,curried ,eggs4 ,chicken a la ,poulette4 ,asparagus1 ,sauce ,hollandaise4 ,fruit ,tart4 ,chocolate ,pralinee4 ,no4 #h4 ,little ,neck ,clams4 ,bouillon4 ,vol-au-,vent4 ,broiled ,chicken1 ,peas4 ,mushrooms4 ,lobster ,salad4 ,gateau ,st4 ,honore4 ,strawberries4 ,at a luncheon1 given in a country house to a large party of golfers1 all the edibles1 consisting of cold meats1 game1 aspics1 salads1 and mince-pie1 were placed on the side-table1 and the gentlemen served the ladies before taking their own places at the table4 ,the servants came into the room only to remove the plates4 ,this gave a very social and lively character to the meal1 which all enjoyed for its informality4 ,entertainments of this kind may often be practicable1 as the question of service sometimes debars one from entertaining many guests at a time4 ,,the ,,five ,o',,clock ,,tea ,a cup of tea at this time of the afternoon is usually gratefully accepted1 and one is disappointed if it is made so badly that it is not drinkable4 ,the young lady who presides at the tea table at an afternoon reception has sometimes a difficult task if the tea is not prepared with a bag 7as directed on page #eej71 but for the unceremonious social cup of tea with the friend who drops in at this hour it is easy to have it just right4 ,after the proper preparation of the tea 7as directed on page #edi71 the attractiveness of the table and the delicacy of the china are the next things to be desired4 ,tea does not taste as well taken from a coarse1 large1 or heavy cup4 ,the taste and refinement of the hostess are easily recognized in this very unceremonious1 but very social1 function4 ,the cloth may be as elaborate as one wishes1 but it must above all be spotless1 unwrinkled and dainty4 ,the cups may all differ from one another1 but each one should be small and thin1 and the steaming kettle1 which lends cheerfulness to the occasion1 should be highly polished1 whether it be silver1 brass1 or copper4 ,a dry biscuit or a thin piece of bread and butter is usually offered with the tea4 ,fresh unsalted butter is preferable1 but any of the fine butters may be used4 ,the butter is spread very evenly on the loaf2 the bread sliced very thin and doubled like a sandwich4 ,it may be cut into any shape desired1 such as strips1 diamonds1 or triangles4 ,it is attractive stamped into circles with a biscuit-cutter of about the size of a silver dollar4 ,three kinds of bread may be used--white1 graham1 and ,boston brown bread1 and all may be served on the same plate4 ,this simple dish is carried into the esthetics in some ,english houses1 where the bread and butter is described as tasting of roses1 violets1 clover1 or nasturtiums4 ,the flavor is obtained by shutting the fresh butter in a tight jar with the blossoms for several hours4 ,butter very readily absorbs flavors and odors1 indeed it is the medium used for extracting perfumes in the manufacture of those articles4 ,the flavored butter is spread in the ordinary way on the bread1 which has been treated also to a bath of flowers4 ,butter sandwiches must be exceedingly thin and shapely1 and have no suggestion of mussiness4 ,they should be laid in a folded napkin to keep them fresh4 ,any sweet wafers may also be used1 but as this is not a meal1 nothing should be offered which will take away the appetite for dinner1 which follows shortly afterward4 ,a ,,homily ,,on ,,cooking ,it is a trite saying that a thing worth doing at all is worth doing well1 but1 from the inefficiency of the large number of domestics who hold the office of cook1 and from the acceptance of careless work by so many families1 it would seem that the truism is not regarded in reference to cooking4 ,since it is upon the kitchen that the health and comfort of the family so greatly depend1 is it not a duty1 and would it not be a pleasure1 for the mistress of every house to understand the science of cooking as well as the arts which give other attractions to the house8 ,a knowledge of its fundamental principles would give her a sense of independence and power1 which knowledge is proverbially said to do4 ,if she were familiar with the nature of the yeast plant1 and the action of heat as applied in boiling1 broiling1 and frying1 if she could make a sauce and clear a soup1 her family would be relieved from the affliction of sour bread1 burned meats1 and muddy soup4 ,an ordinary kitchen servant can do these simple things well1 if she is once told how1 and this basis would be a guide in other work1 and a safeguard against many failures4 ,there is no such thing as luck in cooking4 ,laws govern the chemical changes which take place1 and can always be relied upon4 ,water will boil at #bab deg41 and cannot be made hotter by violent boiling in an open vessel4 ,frying can be properly done only when the fat is smoking hot4 ,broiling can be properly done only over1 or under1 hot and bright coals4 ,for baking1 the oven must be of the right temperature4 ,the same thing cooked in the same way will always be the same1 and failure comes simply from neglect of the rules4 ,it is as easy to have good cooking as bad2 the former requires only the elements of care and intelligence4 ,with very little trouble1 dishes may be made to please the sight as well as the taste4 ,the difference between the elegance and refinement of one table and the vulgarity of another often lies merely in the manner of dishing and serving4 ,again1 the step from plain to fancy cooking is very short4 ,a simple and tasteful arrangement1 or combination1 of materials prepared in the ordinary way will make an ornamental dish4 ,minced chicken pressed into a ring mold to give it shape1 and the center filled with a mushroom sauce1 will make a more appetizing dish than if placed carelessly together with no regard to symmetry4 ,potatoes pressed into a fancy mold1 a part of the center removed1 and the space filled with chopped seasoned meat1 will give a chartreuse1 and no thought of hash suggested4 ,a jelly with a flower in the top1 or of two colors1 will make a decorative piece for the table4 ,uniformity in size and shape of potatoes1 chops1 pancakes1 slices of bread or anything that is served on the same dish1 gives a pleasing sense of order and care1 which is as marked as the proper arrangement of the table furniture4 ,it is in little things only that fancy differs from plain cooking1 but as soon as a cook comprehends the value of the appearance of dishes she is sure to think of their perfection in every other way4 ,there is a popular prejudice against fried foods1 and a belief that abstaining from them will cure us of our dyspepsia1 but if articles are properly fried they should contain no more grease than the boiled one does of water4 ,smoking fat has such a high degree of heat1 that certain articles are better cooked by frying than by any other method4 ,minced meat1 rolled into the form of croquettes and fried1 assumes a different character both in taste and rank from the minced meat heated in other ways4 ,if the croquettes are coated with egg and crumbs and immersed in smoking hot fat1 as the rule directs1 the egg is instantly hardened1 and no fat can be absorbed through it4 ,that which covers the outside is evaporated by draining and drying in a hot place4 ,the napkin on which the croquettes are served will not be stained if they are rightly fried4 ,saratoga chips can be handled with a glove without soiling it4 ,we need not be a nation of dyspeptics from eating pie when the ,french are not from eating puff-paste1 or from hot breads when the ,english are not from plum pudding and pork pies4 ,it is from the manner of preparing our foods that we suffer4 ,cooking has not been one of the virtues of our new country1 as we have been satisfied to get our cooks from ,france and ,ireland1 but if intelligent ,american housewives will take interest and pleasure in this important department1 which is delegated to their care1 some of the serious trials of life will be overcome1 and emancipation from many petty cares and annoyances will follow4 ,,cooking ,,as ,a ,,pleasure ,,and ,,an ,,accomplishment ,the common sayings about waste in ,american kitchens1 dyspeptic results of ,american cooking1 etc41 reflect the opinion held by other nations of our culinary art1 and though the judgment may be too severe1 it has been pronounced1 and should remind us of our shortcomings4 ,it seems1 however1 as though a new era were now dawning4 ,cooking-schools are established in large cities1 cooking lectures are given everywhere and are well attended4 ,the nutritive values of different foods and the chemistry of cooking are studied4 ,this1 and the recognition of the fact that health proceeds largely from the diet1 seem to indicate that there has been an awakening of interest in the subject of gastronomy4 ,in this day of fads1 it will soon be discovered also that pleasures lie in this line of work4 ,fancy cooking has an interest quite as engaging as other occupations of diversion4 ,fine cooking utensils1 gas-stoves1 and modern conveniences1 make the well-appointed kitchen as attractive as the laboratory or workshop4 ,trying a new dish has the same interest as any other experiment4 ,the construction of ornamental pieces is as interesting as other fancy work4 ,making puff-paste1 ice-creams1 fancy molding of desserts and salads1 boiling sugar1 etc41 are in reality simple processes1 and with very little practice found to be as easy to prepare as dishes which from familiarity have come to be called plain cooking4 ,skill and dexterity of hand may be enjoyed in boning1 trussing1 and larding1 and taste shown in decorating with truffles and other articles1 in molding with flowers and fruits1 in icing cakes1 in spinning sugar1 and in making bonbons4 ,the pleasure of decorating the table and adorning the dining-room will be found secondary to that of preparing artistic dishes when that art has once been learned4 ,the gas-stove obviates the objection1 formerly existing1 of one's being subjected to excessive heat while cooking4 ,at a cost of about #b4jj a stove can be bought which will stand on a table anywhere1 and answer all ordinary purposes of boiling and frying4 ,more expensive ones1 fitted with ovens and other appliances1 answer the requirements of all kinds of cooking4 ,when the preparation of a new or a fancy dish comes to be looked upon as a pastime instead of a task1 there may be discovered in ,america ,savarins and ,bechamels4 ,we have already had a ,sam ,ward1 but to the women should belong the honor of raising our standard of cooking1 and though they need not agree with the terrible sentiment expressed by ,margaret ,fuller1 that a woman to have influence must cook or scold1 still it must be conceded that the former accomplishment will enable her to wield a potent scepter4 ,perhaps1 however1 the strongest word to be said in favor of every mistress of a house knowing how to cook is the usefulness of it4 ,the difficulty of getting trained cooks at reasonable wages1 the caprices of the class1 whose consciences do not prevent their leaving at the moment when their services are most needed1 and the many occasions that arise when a knowledge of cooking is of the greatest comfort and service1 make it difficult1 for those who know how to cook1 to comprehend how any one can keep house without this knowledge1 or how1 with the inferior service generally rendered1 the pleasures of hospitality can be enjoyed1 or the comfort of a well-ordered culinary department experienced4 ,,to ,,train ,a ,,green ,,cook ,if one is obliged to accept the service of inexperienced cooks1 or of women who claim to be plain cooks1 but in reality know nothing of the right ways of preparing anything1 it is often necessary to do more or less teaching or supervising4 ,often it would be found easier to begin at the beginning1 and teach an entirely green girl who has intelligence and a desire to learn1 than it is to correct careless habits or bad methods already formed4 ,a formula for teaching a green cook is given below for the benefit of any who care to avail of it4 ,first4 ,impress the necessity of clean utensils1 being particular that every saucepan used is perfectly clean on the outside as well as the inside4 ,second4 ,have all the utensils of one kind kept together in definite places1 and insist that each one is returned to its place as soon as it has served its use1 thus establishing system4 ,third4 ,when sugar1 butter1 spices1 or any articles are taken out for use1 have the boxes returned to their places as soon as the desired quantity is removed4 ,fourth4 ,do not allow any accumulation of soiled utensils waiting for a general cleaning-up4 ,a great deal of time and work can be saved1 and an orderly kitchen maintained1 by washing things as you go along so far as possible at odd moments1 and also in not using an unnecessary number of dishes4 ,fifth4 ,explain about exact measurements4 ,insist upon the use of the tin measuring-cup 7see page #gg74 ,sixth4 ,have a time-table giving time per pound for cooking meats1 fastened in a convenient place against the wall1 for easy reference4 ,seventh4 ,have all meats weighed and wiped off with a wet cloth before proceeding to cook them4 ,eighth4 ,at all times give attention to right management of the fire2 be especially careful not to have coal piled above the grate1 nor to let the top of range become red-hot4 ,shut off drafts before the coal is burned out1 and have the ovens clean and at the right temperature4 ,ninth4 ,have everything dished neatly1 and garnished simply4 ,tenth4 ,no matter how simple the dish1 insist that it be attractive in appearance1 and that every dish placed on the table show the care of the cook in its preparation2 for instance1 have every piece of toast of the same size and shape1 evenly browned and carefully arranged on a hot plate4 ,to instil strict care in every detail is a most important point in forming a good cook4 ,,dishes ,,recommended ,,for ,,first ,,lessons4 ,to make beef stock for soups1 page #hh4 ,to boil potatoes1 page #bja4 ,to boil rice1 page #bbb4 ,to make a white sauce1 page #bgg4 ,with one half the sauce make cream potatoes1 add a little onion juice to the other half1 and add to it meat minced very fine1 making a creamed mince4 ,serve it on moistened toast2 or make creamed chicken and serve a border of rice around it4 ,when making a roux1 and a white sauce is understood1 it is easy to show the variations of it1 such as to cook onion or vegetables with the butter before the flour is added2 or to brown the flour if a brown sauce is wanted2 or to use stock instead of milk1 thus making a ,bechamel sauce2 or to add an egg to white sauce1 making a poulette sauce1 etc4 ,to poach eggs3 ,serve them on toast cut uniformly and moistened4 ,place symmetrically on dish and garnish with parsley2 or1 spread the toast with creamed mince1 place a poached egg on each piece1 and put a spot of pepper on the center of the yolk4 ,to make coffee1 page #eea4 ,to broil a steak1 page #aef4 ,to boil a leg of mutton1 caper sauce1 pages #afc and #afd4 ,to roast beef and baste frequently1 roast potatoes in the same pan1 pages #adf and #bjd4 ,to draw and truss a chicken1 pages #ahj and #ahc4 ,to clear the beef stock for clear soup1 page #hf4 ,to make common stock1 page #hg4 ,to make potato soup1 page #ajc4 ,to clarify drippings1 page #gd4 ,to try out all other fat1 page #gd4 ,to dry bread and roll it into crumbs1 page #ea4 ,to make bread and bread biscuits1 page #cdj4 ,to make rice pudding1 page #dcc4 ,to make bread pudding1 page #dcd4 ,to make plain cornstarch pudding1 page #cig4 ,a compote to serve with cornstarch pudding1 page #ece4 ,cottage pudding1 sabayon sauce1 pages #dce and #ddf4 ,cup cake1 page #dgj4 ,cookies1 page #dha4 ,plain pie-crust1 page #dea4 ,baked apple-dumplings1 hard sauce1 pp4 #dbi and #ddh4 ,some variations of cornstarch pudding1 page #cih4 ,plain wine-jelly1 page #dae4 ,when a woman has learned to do these few simple things perfectly1 she will have no difficulty in following any ordinary receipt1 and having a knowledge of the first principles of cooking1 can then advance to more elaborate dishes4 ,frying should not be attempted until she can roast1 broil1 and bake4 ,croquettes of various kinds can then be made2 to mold them uniformly requires a little practice--the care of the fat and the right degree of heat are the essential things to emphasize in frying4 ,in one month a woman of ordinary intelligence1 with the desire to learn1 should be able to make perfectly1 and serve attractively1 enough simple dishes to supply the family table with sufficient variety1 without troubling the mistress to plan and think for her4 ,an insistence upon system and exactness will insure immunity from failures4 ,,economical ,,living ,a very pleasant book called #aj4jj ,enough explains how a family of two lived well on that sum per week1 including house rent and wages of one servant4 ,mrs4 ,rorer says #b4jj per head a week is a liberal allowance4 ,articles are published giving directions for living on ten cents a day2 also of dinners for six people costing twenty-five cents4 ,in examining these formulae it is evident that in order to accomplish this very small cost of living1 one must first understand the comparative values of foods1 so as to select those which at low prices furnish the necessary nourishment1 and secondly1 to be able to cook them in such a way as to make them acceptable2 in fact the rule holds good1 however high the scale of living1 that the proper cooking of food counts for more than the cost of it4 ,the cheap and the expensive articles can be equally spoiled in the cooking2 while the cheap ones1 well cooked1 are more esteemed than the high-priced ones poorly prepared4 ,the first thing excluded from the list of cheap nutritive foods is white bread4 ,refining the flour to the whiteness of the so-called best qualities takes out most of its nutritive elements1 while the lower grades or brown flours retain the gluten1 and make a bread which is preferred when one becomes familiar with it4 ,beans1 peas1 and corn-meal have an important place on the list of accepted foods4 ,they supply the wastes of the system and afford a hearty meal4 ,meat1 which is the most expensive food1 has come to be regarded here as a necessity1 but in the old countries the classes who perform the hardest labor consider it only as a luxury1 and seldom use it oftener than once a week4 ,often the cost of living is more in the waste than in the actual consumption of food4 ,another needless and unwise expense is buying more than is required1 providing for three persons enough for six2 and still another extravagance is in buying articles which are out of season4 ,for instance1 in the spring veal is a very cheap meat2 in the autumn it is the most expensive one1 but1 at the right times1 one may indulge in sweetbreads1 calf's head1 calf's brains1 and liver4 ,in its season game is frequently abundant and reasonably cheap4 ,the idea prevails that1 in order to have variety1 it is necessary to buy whatever the market offers1 whereas variety may be attained by variation in the ways of cooking1 in serving with different sauces1 and with different accompaniments1 and in arranging the menu so that one course is in pleasing contrast to the preceding one1 thus avoiding surfeit4 ,many pieces of meat of the best quality are sold at low rates because not in shapes to be served as boiling or roasting pieces4 ,these serve well for entrees and made-up dishes2 other pieces1 which are tough1 but well flavored1 can by slow cooking be made as tender as the prime cuts1 such as a round of beef braised4 ,on page #bdi will be found a number of menus and receipts for very inexpensive dinners4 ,sidenote3 ,mushrooms4 ,mr4 ,gibson1 in an interesting article on ,mushrooms1 published in ,harper's ,magazine for ,august1 #ahid1 calls attention to the vast amount of wholesome and nutritious food that lies at the door of every country dweller4 ,city people pay at least a dollar a pound for mushrooms1 which are served at the finest dinners1 and are considered as among the best articles for use in high-class cooking4 ,therefore1 why should they be scorned or overlooked by those who can have them for the gathering8 ,neglect to use them seems equal in wastefulness to the practice of some country butchers1 who throw away calves' heads1 brains1 sweetbreads1 fresh tongues1 etc41 because the people have not learned their value4 ,a ,french family who moved into a western town reported that the cost of living there was nominal1 because the foods which they most prized1 not being recognized as belonging on the list of comestibles1 were given away by the butchers as food for dogs4 ,mushrooms are very distinctive in feature1 and by the aid of descriptions given in books and colored charts1 one can easily learn the edible varieties which grow in his neighborhood4 ,by taking no risks in eating those not perfectly recognized1 there is no danger of being poisoned4 ,it is not thought difficult to learn varieties of the rose1 nor to discriminate between the poison and the innocuous ivy4 ,the form1 color1 and habitat of mushrooms make them equally easy to recognize4 ,care should be taken1 however1 to avoid any mushroom which is old or partly decayed1 as its condition then is analogous to that of putrid meat4 ,in their season the edible fungi grow in great profusion2 they are nitrogenous1 containing the same nutritive elements as meat1 and well serve as a substitute for it1 giving a pleasant change to the limited bill of frugal fare4 ,mr4 ,gibson speaks of them as beefsteaks4 ,they seem from circumstances1 therefore1 to have a place in the dietary of the poor as well as the rich4 ,receipts for cooking mushrooms are given on page #cad4 ,it is sometimes thought to be an extravagance to serve a roast to a small family1 because so much meat is left over4 ,when there is no way known of presenting it again except as cold meat or as hash1 it may indeed be disagreeable to have the same meat served four times4 ,a good cook1 however1 served turkey acceptably at four dinners to a family of three persons in this way3 ,,first ,,day',s ,,dinner #aj lbs4 turkey at #af cents per lb4 #a4fj #a quart sweet potatoes boiled 4#aj #b quarts apples 7of which she used three for baked apple dumplings1 sabayon sauce1 page #ddf7 4#ae #a egg 4#jc #a lemon 4#jb #a_/b cup sugar 4#ja -- 4#jf -- ,cost of first day's dinner #a4ia ,,second ,,day',s ,,dinner #b lbs4 codfish boiled 4#bj ,,hollandaise ,,sauce 7page #bha74 #b eggs 4#jf #a_/d lb4 butter 4#jh #a_/b lemon 4#ja -- 4#ae #f croquettes made of one cupful of turkey meat 4#jj ,,sauce ,,to ,,mix ,,them #a_/b cup milk 4#ja #a_/b tablespoonful butter 4#ja #a egg 4#jc -- 4#je #a_/b tablespoonful flour 7see croquettes1 page #bic7 #a pint cranberries 4#ji ,sweet potatoes left from day before1 cut in strips and browned 7see page #bjf7 4#jj ,,brown ,,betty ,,pudding ,apples from day before 4#jj ,molasses and crumbs 4#je -- 4#je -- ,cost of second dinner 4#ed ,,third ,,day',s ,,dinner ,soup made from carcass of turkey 4#jj ,,chicken ,,souffle 7page #aij74 #a cup turkey meat 4#jj ,,sauce ,,to ,,mix ,,it #a tablespoonful butter 4#jb #a cup milk 4#jd #c eggs 4#ji ,other ingredients 4#jb -- 4#ag ,,baked ,,macaroni #a_/b lb4 macaroni 4#jd ,cheese 4#je -- 4#ji ,,cottage ,,pudding #a egg 4#jc #a_/b cup sugar 4#ja #a_/b cup milk 4#jb #a tablespoonful butter 4#jc ,baking powder 4#ja -- 4#aj ,,chocolate ,,sauce 7page #ddg74 #c oz4 chocolate 4#jh #a_/b cup sugar 4#jb -- 4#aj -- ,cost of third day's dinner 4#df ,,fourth ,,day',s ,,dinner #a codfish steak1 #a lb4 4#aj #d smelts for garnishing 4#aj -- 4#bj ,,chartreuse ,,of ,,chicken 7page #aij74 #a cup rice 4#jd ,white sauce 4#jg ,what is left of turkey including giblets 4#jj ,boiled potatoes 4#je ,scalloped tomatoes 4#ae ,salad of water-cresses 4#je ,bread pudding 4#aj -- 4#df -- ,cost of fourth day's dinner 4#ff ,first day #a4ia ,second day 4#ed ,third day 4#df ,fourth day 4#ff ,extras for bread1 seasonings1 etc4 4#cj ---- ,total #c4hg ,average per day #if-c_/d cents4 ,the turkey in this case gave three cupfuls of chopped meat after the dinner of the first day4 ,any kind of meat can be made into the same dishes1 and will be liked if the meat is chopped very fine1 is well seasoned1 and made creamy by using enough sauce4 ,,wastefulness ,as a rule the family life of ,america does not represent opulence1 yet it has become a familiar saying that a ,french family could live on what an ,american family throws away4 ,again1 it is said that in ,american kitchens half the provisions are spoiled and the other half wasted4 ,there is no need to-day of being open to such accusations4 ,at small expense a woman can have the benefit of lessons in cooking-schools1 and should not be accepted as a cook until she has some knowledge of the duties1 and is qualified to bear that name4 ,the gage of a woman's rank in her profession can be definitely determined by what she wastes or utilizes1 and the high wages paid a first-class cook are often saved by the intelligent use she makes of all her materials4 ,many of her best entrees are but a combination of odds and ends which another cook would throw away4 ,her delicious sauce1 which gives a very ordinary dish that requisite something which makes it highly esteemed1 may be but the blending of many flavors obtained from little scraps4 ,the waste in foods need be so small as practically to have no waste material2 not a crumb of bread1 a grain of sugar1 a bit of butter1 a scrap of meat or fat1 a piece of vegetable or leaf of salad1 but can be utilized with profit4 ,the soup pot is a receptacle for everything too small for other uses1 and from this source can be drawn seasonings which will give richness and flavor to innumerable dishes1 which are greatly improved by using stock instead of milk or water in their preparation4 ,,how ,,to ,,utilize ,,what ,,some ,,cooks ,,throw ,,away ,sidenote3 ,bread4 ,trim such pieces of cut bread as will do for toast into uniform shape and serve at the next breakfast4 ,smaller pieces cut into croutons 7page #ha7 for garnishing or for soup4 ,save unshapely pieces for bread pudding1 ,brown ,betty1 or stuffings4 ,save every scrap of bread for crumbs1 to use for breading croquettes1 chops1 scallop dishes1 etc4 ,it is well to have two kinds of crumbs1 using the white ones for the outside of fried articles1 as they give a better color4 ,to prepare the crumbs1 separate the crumb from the crusts of bread and dry each of them slowly1 on separate tins1 on the shelf of the range4 ,when dry1 roll1 sift and place them in glass preserve-jars until wanted4 ,sidenote3 ,fat4 ,clarify all beef fat and drippings1 the grease which rises on soup stock1 and fat from poultry1 and keep in a clean jar or tin pail for use in frying2 it is preferable to lard 7see frying1 pages #gb and #ei74 ,mutton1 turkey1 and smoked meat fat has too strong a flavor to be used for frying1 but save it with other fat that may be unsuitable for frying1 and when six pounds are collected make it into hard soap 7page #bei74 ,use the marrow of beef bones on toast for a luncheon entree 7page #aei71 or use it with bread to make balls for soup 7page #id74 ,grill wings and legs of fowls that are left over 7page #ahh7 for luncheon1 or stuff the legs as directed 7page #ahh74 ,if the sinews are removed from the legs when the fowl is drawn1 as directed 7page #ahj71 the meat of the leg will be as good as that of the second joint4 ,use a ham bone for improving bean soup4 ,use the carcasses of fowls and the bones from roasts for making soup4 ,try out chop bones and other meat taken from the plates for soap fat4 ,sidenote3 ,tough ,pieces4 ,chop the tough ends of steak very fine1 season1 and form them into balls or cakes1 saute or broil them1 and serve for breakfast or luncheon 7see ,hamburg steaks1 page #aea74 ,sidenote3 ,small ,pieces1 ,cold ,meats4 ,cut pieces of white meat into dice or strips1 mix it with a white sauce1 turn it into a flat dish1 make a border of pointed croutons1 sprinkle over the top a little chopped parsley1 and garnish with hard-boiled egg2 or mix the meat with aspic jelly in a mold and serve cold with salad4 ,mix dark meats of any kind with a brown sauce1 and garnish with lettuce leaves1 hard-boiled eggs1 and croutons4 ,any kind of cold meat may be chopped and used in an omelet1 or combined with rice and tomatoes for a scallop4 ,for cold mutton see ,ragout of ,mutton 7page #afe74 ,sidenote3 ,eggs4 ,save egg-shells to clear soup1 jellies1 or coffee4 ,boiled eggs that are left return to the fire and boil them hard to use for garnishing1 to mix with salad1 or to make golden toast 7page #bgj7 for luncheon4 ,cold poached eggs can be boiled hard and used in the same way4 ,cold fried or scrambled eggs can be chopped and mixed with minced meat1 and will much improve it4 ,when an egg is opened for the white alone1 drop the yolk carefully into a cup1 cover the cup with a wet cloth1 and keep it in the ice-box until wanted4 ,when whites are left over make a small angel cake 7page #dfg71 angel ice cream 7page #dig71 kisses 7page #dge71 or cover any dessert with meringue1 or serve a meringue sauce 7page #ddh7 with the next dessert1 or make a meat souffle without yolks 7page #aij74 ,sidenote3 ,general ,odds and ,ends4 ,everything too small to utilize in other ways put in the soup pot1 and from this can be drawn sauces and seasoning for minces1 scallops1 etc41 that will often be better than specially prepared stock4 ,sidenote3 ,cereals4 ,oatmeal1 hominy1 cracked wheat1 and other cereals which are left over can be added next day to the fresh stock1 for they are improved by long boiling and do not injure the new supply1 or such as is left can be molded in large or in small forms1 and served cold with cream1 or milk and sugar4 ,in warm weather cereals are nicer cold than hot4 ,cold hominy and mush1 cut into squares and fried1 so that a crisp crust is formed on both sides1--also hominy or farina1 rolled into balls and fried1--are good used in place of a vegetable or as a breakfast dish4 ,any of the cereals make good pancakes1 or a small amount added to the ordinary pancake batter improves it4 ,cold rice can be added to soup1 or made into croquettes1 or used in a scallop dish1 or mixed with minced meat and egg and fried like an omelet4 ,cold rice pudding can be cut into rounded pieces with a spoon and served again on a flat dish2 this may be covered with whipped cream or flavored whipped white of egg4 ,sidenote3 ,vegetables4 ,a small amount of vegetables left over may go into the soup1 or may be mixed with a ragout4 ,peas1 tomatoes1 or beans can be put in an omelet4 ,a number of vegetables mixed together can be used for a salad4 ,cauliflower broken into flowerets1 covered with white sauce1 and sprinkled with grated cheese1 makes cauliflower au gratin1 a dish which is much liked4 ,the coarse stalks and roots of celery make a good vegetable dish when cut in pieces and boiled1 or they make a good cream-of-celery soup4 ,the leaves are valuable in the soup pot for flavor2 also are useful for garnishing4 ,sidenote3 ,sour ,milk4 ,sour milk makes cottage cheese1 or makes good biscuits4 ,for uses of stale cakes see page #daa4 ,for jellies left over see page #dah4 ,sidenote3 ,fruits4 ,when fruits show signs of deterioration1 stew them at once instead of letting them decay4 ,see compotes4 ,stew apple parings and cores to a pulp and strain2 this will make a jelly which1 spread on apple tart1 greatly improves it4 ,boil lemon and orange peels in sugar1 and dry as directed1 page #ebg1 for candied peels4 ,sidenote3 ,cheese4 ,grate cheese which becomes dry and use for gratin dishes or soups2 or it can be served with crackers the same as though in its original shape4 ,,emergencies ,there is to-day such a variety of well-preserved foods that a store-closet provided with these articles may be almost the equivalent of a full larder4 ,with such a resource the housekeeper can meet without embarrassment the emergencies that may arise in any household1 however well ordered4 ,in the country1 where tradespeople are difficult to reach1 it will be especially useful at such times4 ,the articles sealed in glass jars seem the most wholesome1 and are sometimes so well preserved as to be a very good substitute for the fresh ones4 ,salted meats and fish are distinctive foods1 which are occasionally very acceptable1 and the dessicated foods are beyond suspicion of unwholesomeness4 ,a few suggestions are offered of how to utilize some of the articles which can be recommended4 ,many of the soups are excellent2 chicken gumbo is particularly good4 ,extract of beef can be quickly made into soup1 beef-tea1 or aspic jelly 7page #cbb74 ,canned salmon and chicken1 either of them1 can be heated and covered with a white sauce1 or be used for salad1 or the salmon may be broiled and covered with a maitre d'hotel sauce 7page #bhf74 ,potted meats spread on toast make excellent canapes for luncheon 7page #cfh74 ,shrimps make a salad1 or in a chafing-dish can be prepared a la ,newburg 7page #ccc74 ,of the salted and smoked meats are ham1 bacon1 dried tongue1 chipped beef1 codfish1 smoked salmon1 and mackerel1 all of which are much esteemed as breakfast dishes1 and may be offered at luncheon or supper4 ,of the vegetables1 string-beans and flageolets make good salads4 ,asparagus makes a good extra course served alone4 ,tomatoes1 the cheapest of all1 and perhaps the most useful1 will make soup1 sauces1 a scallop dish1 or may be added to an omelet1 macaroni1 or rice4 ,pilot bread1 toasted bread in slices1 and rusks make delicious cream-toasts for luncheon or supper4 ,noodles or macaroni boiled plain for a vegetable1 or mixed with any sauce1 tomatoes1 or cheese4 ,cheese is useful for canapes 7pages #cfh-cga71 cheese souffle 7page #cgj71 macaroni1 etc4 ,there are varieties of plain and fancy cracker biscuits which can be used in the place of cake4 ,plum-puddings wrapped in tin-foil will keep indefinitely4 ,the canned whole apples can be used for dumplings 7page #dbi7 or pies4 ,california apricots or cherries around a form of plain boiled rice1 hominy1 or other cereal1 make a dessert2 peaches make a shortcake 7page #ddc72 jams make delicious tarts1 or1 served alone with cracker biscuits1 are a sufficient dessert for luncheon4 ,plain boiled rice may be used as a vegetable in place of potatoes2 or1 sweetened and mixed with a few raisins1 or served with stewed prunes1 makes a dessert4 ,there are prepared flours from which biscuits may be quickly made2 prepared buckwheat which makes good pancakes for supper or for breakfast4 ,a few cans of condensed milk should be in the store-room for use in case of real necessity only2 it answers very well for puddings1 sweet dishes1 or chocolate4 ,outside the store-room supplies1 eggs furnish a variety of dishes quickly prepared4 ,eggs a l'aurore1 or ,bourguignonne1 omelets with peas1 tomatoes1 mushrooms1 minced meat1 etc41 are for luncheon1 and cheese omelets1 sweet omelets1 and souffles for dinner dishes4 ,it is well to have fondant 7page #eac7 in close jars ready for icing cakes or for bonbons1 candied fruits for sweets or for ornamenting desserts1 ginger and brandied peaches to serve with ice-cream4 ,lady-fingers are easily made1 and will keep in a cracker-box indefinitely4 ,if these are at hand1 a ,charlotte russe is quickly made1 and is one of the simplest and most acceptable light desserts4 ,there are olives1 gherkins1 and chow-chow for hors d'oeuvres4 ,there are catsups and condiments in variety to make barbecues 7page #cca71 or to make cold meats acceptable4 ,the growing plant1 the globe of gold fish1 the bird-cage partly concealed with branches1 may be utilized for table decoration4 ,as circumstances alter cases1 there are many expedients to which a housekeeper may resort in supplying deficiencies which might not be in rule1 were the occasion a formal one4 ,the chafing-dish on the luncheon or supper-table1 or a dish more appropriate to a different meal1 would not only be excused1 but perhaps give to an embarrassing occasion the pleasant feature of informality4 ,,things ,,to ,,remember ,sidenote3 ,eggs4 ,a dash of salt added to the whites of eggs makes them whip better4 ,not a speck of the yolk must get into the whites which are to be whipped4 ,fold the whipped whites into any mixture rather than stir them in1 as the latter method breaks the air cells4 ,break eggs one at a time into a saucer1 so any can be rejected if necessary and the mixture not be spoiled4 ,add a tablespoonful of water to an egg used for crumbing in order to remove the stringiness4 ,use a double boiler for milk4 ,sidenote3 ,milk4 ,milk is scalded when the water in the lower pan boils4 ,a pinch of bi-carbonate of soda mixed with tomato before milk or cream is added prevents the milk from curdling4 ,with sour milk1 or molasses1 use soda instead of baking powder4 ,sidenote3 ,butter4 ,milk and butter should be kept in closely covered vessels1 as they readily absorb flavor and odor from other articles4 ,butter added slowly in small bits to creamy mixtures1 or sauces1 prevents a greasy line forming4 ,sidenote3 ,crumbs4 ,crumbs grated directly from the loaf give a more delicate color than dried crumbs to fried articles4 ,dried crumbs absorb more moisture1 and are better for watery dishes4 ,crumbs spread over the tops of dishes should be mixed evenly with melted butter over the fire2 this is a better method than having lumps of butter dotted over the crumbs after they are spread4 ,when the sauce bubbles through the crumbs on top of a scallop dish1 the cooking is completed4 ,sidenote3 ,meats4 ,meat should not be washed4 ,it can be cleaned by rubbing with a wet cloth1 or by scraping with a knife4 ,drippings are better than water for basting meats4 ,meats should not be pierced while cooking4 ,soak salt fish with the skin side up over night4 ,change the water several times4 ,to skim sauces1 draw the saucepan to the side of the fire1 throw in a teaspoonful of cold water1 and the grease will rise so that it can be easily taken off4 ,a few drops of onion juice improve made-over meat dishes2 not enough need be used to give a pronounced onion flavor4 ,sidenote3 ,drippings4 ,the skimming from soups1 drippings from any beef roasts1 and trimmings from any beef1 serve the same uses as lard1 cottolene1 or butter4 ,sidenote3 ,onion ,juice4 ,to extract onion juice1 press the raw surface of an onion against a grater1 move it slightly1 and the juice will run off the point of the grater4 ,sidenote3 ,chopping ,suet4 ,chop suet in a cool place1 and sprinkle it with flour to prevent its oiling and sticking together4 ,remove the membrane before chopping it4 ,sidenote3 ,chopping or ,pounding ,almonds4 ,add a few drops of rose-water to almonds to prevent their oiling when chopped or pounded4 ,to loosen grated peel1 or other articles1 from the grater1 strike the grater sharply on the table4 ,sidenote3 ,mixing4 ,when mixing a liquid with a solid material1 add but little liquid at a time and stir constantly to prevent lumping4 ,when adding cornstarch1 arrowroot1 or any starchy material to hot liquid1 first mix it with enough cold water1 or milk1 to make it fluid2 pour it in slowly and stir constantly until it becomes clear4 ,sidenote3 ,gelatine4 ,soak gelatine in a cool place for an hour in cold water or milk4 ,it will then quickly dissolve in hot liquid and have no odor4 ,if jellied dishes do not stiffen1 add more gelatine2 boiling down will not effect the purpose4 ,sidenote3 ,molds4 ,grease molds evenly with butter or oil1 using a brush4 ,lumps of butter on the side of molds leave an uneven surface on the article cooked or molded in them4 ,molds for jellies are not greased4 ,invert a dish over a mold before turning it1 so that the form will not break2 also1 place it in exactly the right spot before lifting off the mold4 ,sidenote3 ,strainers4 ,it is desirable to pass all liquid mixtures through a strainer to make them perfectly smooth4 ,sidenote3 ,to keep ,dishes ,warm4 ,to keep dishes warm until time of serving1 place the saucepan in a pan of hot water4 ,sidenote3 ,flavoring4 ,any flavoring is added after the mixture is cooked1 excepting for baked dishes4 ,wine increases the taste of salt1 therefore1 where wine is used for flavoring1 very little salt should be put in until after the wine is used1 when more can be added if necessary4 ,dishes which are to be frozen need an extra amount of sweetening4 ,sidenote3 ,raisins4 ,flour raisins before adding them to a mixture in order to prevent their settling to the bottom4 ,sidenote3 ,baking4 ,never slam the oven door1 or jar any rising material while it is baking4 ,anything being cooked for the second time needs a hot oven4 ,,care ,,of ,,utensils ,a very essential thing in doing nice cooking is to have clean utensils4 ,the pans of a careless cook are encrusted outside and frequently inside with dry1 hard grease1 which ordinary washing will not remove2 the broilers are black with burned grease1 and the ovens are in the same state4 ,if one sees this condition of things1 or finds a woman putting a saucepan on the hot coals1 one needs no further commentary on her work4 ,the saying ,you can judge a workman by his tools is very true in this case4 ,no good cook will abuse her utensils1 or expect to get well-flavored sauces from saucepans which are not immaculately clean4 ,to keep utensils clean1 it is necessary to wash them thoroughly1 after they are used1 with soda to cut the grease1 and with sapolio to scour off any blackened spots4 ,sand or ashes may be used on the outside of iron pots4 ,the outside as well as the inside of every utensil should be clean1 and never be allowed to approach that state where only scraping will clean them4 ,when utensils do reach that unwholesome condition1 the coat of burned and blackened grease can be removed only by boiling in a strong solution of sal soda for an hour or more1 using a large boiler which will hold enough water to entirely cover them4 ,after the grease is softened1 it can be scraped off1 the articles then scoured with sand1 ashes1 or sapolio4#fa-99 ,this is a good day's work for a charwoman1 which will change the aspect of things in the kitchen1 and may awaken a pride for cleanliness where it has not before existed4 ,sidenote3 ,tins1 ,sieves1 ,woodenware4 ,tins should be well dried before being put away1 or they will rust4 ,sieves should not be washed with soap1 but cleaned with a brush1 using soda if necessary4 ,wooden ware should not be put near the fire to dry1 or it will warp or crack4 ,sidenote3 ,arrangement of ,utensils in ,closet4 ,an orderly arrangement of utensils in the kitchen closet will greatly facilitate quick work4 ,everything of the same class should be in the same group3 ,saucepans and gridirons hung on hooks1 measuring-cups1 iron spoons1 and strainers also hung in a place very convenient to hand4 ,molds and baking tins should be placed where they will not get bent or jammed4 ,practise strictly the system of a place for everything and everything in its place4 ,sidenote3 ,supply-,closet4 ,sidenote3 ,refrigerator4 ,order in the supply-closet is also necessary4 ,have a number of tin boxes1 and of glass preserve-jars of different sizes1 to hold everything large and small in the way of food supplies4 ,stand them in rows1 each one plainly labeled1 that no time may be lost in searching for the article needed4 ,the cost of these receptacles is small1 while their use is not only a great convenience1 but also a protection from dust and insects4 ,a closet so kept is also easily supervised4 ,in every large and well-ordered kitchen perfect order and system prevail4 ,were it not so1 a hopeless confusion would soon ensue4 ,in small households the same nicety can be the rule1 and if the mistress makes a weekly inspection1 order will soon become a tradition of the household1 and be maintained without demur4 ,the refrigerator must be kept scrupulously clean and dry to insure wholesome food1 and its waste-pipe kept freely open4 ,this should not be connected directly with the general waste-pipe of the house4 ,cases of diphtheria have been directly traced to this cause4 ,there should be a free use of soda in washing out the refrigerator to keep it free from taint4 ,as butter and milk readily absorb the flavors of other articles they should be kept by themselves1 or with only the eggs1 in the small compartment4 ,lemons or other fruit are particularly to be excluded4 ,fish may be laid directly on ice1 the skin side down2 but beefsteaks or other uncooked meats lose flavor if placed in direct contact with ice4 ,sidenote3 ,coal and ,range4 ,proper care of the range and intelligent use of the coal are also essential factors of success in cooking4 ,if the drafts are left open too long1 the greatest heat is often lost before cooking begins4 ,if they are closed the moment the coal is kindled1 the heat will remain steady for a long time4 ,when the coals look whitish1 they are becoming exhausted and beginning to fall to ashes1 and this condition arrives quickly when rapid combustion takes place from open draughts4 ,piling the coal above the level of the fire-box is another error generally practised by ignorant cooks4 ,the heat does not increase from the depth of coal1 but from the breadth of surface4 ,piling up the coal1 in a mound which nearly touches the top of the range1 results in heating the iron red-hot1 warping the lids out of shape1 destroying the saucepans1 and very likely burning the food4 ,no articles cooked on top of the range require excessive heat1 and are usually spoiled by too rapid cooking4 ,sidenote3 ,ovens4 ,when the ovens do not bake on the bottom or on the top1 it means a layer of ashes shuts off the heat4 ,the ashes are easily removed from the top1 but to lift the plate from the bottom of the oven and clean it out requires a cold range1 so this is often neglected or not understood1 while the cook wonders why the bread will not bake on the bottom1 and why the cake is spoiled4 ,,footnotes3 #fa-99 ,it can also be easily removed by soaking in a solution of ,babbitt's lye--one tablespoonful to several gallons of water4--,m4 ,r4 ,,part ,,ii ,,receipts ,,chapter ,i ,,methods ,,of ,,cooking ,,explained ,,boiling ,sidenote3 ,simmering4 ,there is an erroneous impression that articles cook faster when the water is boiling violently1 but this is not the case2 the ebullition is caused by the escaping steam1 which is lost heat1 and the water at this time is at #bab deg4 7except in high elevations71 however fast or slow it may be boiling4 ,if1 however1 a little sugar or salt is added to the water it increases its density1 and the heat rises to #bbd deg4 before the steam escapes4 ,the heat can be raised also by covering the pot and confining as much of the steam as possible4 ,where violently boiling water is recommended1 as for rice and green peas1 the object is not greater heat1 but to keep the grains and peas separated by the turbulence of the water4 ,there is waste of fuel in unnecessarily fast boiling1 and economy can be easily practised here1 especially where gas is used1 as the boiling point1 once reached1 can be maintained with but little heat4 ,where the juices and color are to be retained1 the articles are put into already boiling salted water4 ,the albumen on the surface is then at once coagulated and the juices shut in4 ,where the object is to extract the juices1 as for soups1 they must be cut into pieces so as to expose more surface1 and put into cold water1 and the heat of the water gradually raised to the simmering point only4 ,the slow1 long cooking obtained in simmering water best destroys the fiber of meat1 and tough pieces cooked in this way are made tender4 ,to render tough pieces tender1 the meat is first put into boiling water in order to fix the albumen on the surface1 the heat then reduced1 and the cooking done at the simmering point1 which is #ahe deg44 ,hence1 water at different stages of heat is used1 according to the object in view1 and the result is as definite as that of the different degrees of heat in an oven1 so this point should not be considered as of little importance4 ,the flavor of meats and vegetables is volatile1 and much of it can be carried off by escaping steam1 as is demonstrated by the odors which sometimes pervade the house4 ,to prevent the latter1 and also to make the article tender and retain all its flavor1 the pot should be covered and the water kept at the simmering point only4 ,sidenote3 ,vegetables4 ,sidenote3 ,meat4 ,sidenote3 ,fish4 ,an exception to this rule is made in the cases of cabbage and cauliflower4 ,these strong-flavored vegetables will be much less objectionable when cooked in rapidly boiling water in open vessels 7see page #bab74 ,green vegetables should be boiled in open vessels1 as high heat destroys their color4 ,all meats should be well tied and skewered1 to keep them in good shape while boiling1 and1 when possible1 be placed with the bone side up1 so if any scum settles it will not spoil the appearance of the dish4 ,for fish a little vinegar should be put into the water1 as it hardens the meat and helps to prevent its falling apart 7see page #aac74 ,salt water is used where the object is to keep the flavors in1 fresh water where it is to draw them out as in soup1 where the salt is not added until the cooking is completed4 ,the rule of not piercing meat1 thus letting out its juices1 applies to boiling as well as to other methods of cooking4 ,fifteen minutes to the pound is the rule for mutton or tender meat1 a much longer or indefinite time for tough meat4 ,ham is done when the skin peels off easily4 ,the scum should be taken off the pot when boiling meat4 ,milk boils at #aif deg4 and easily burns1 therefore it is safer to use a double boiler for anything containing milk4 ,when using a double boiler1 the liquid in the inner pan is scalded when the water in the outside vessel boils4 ,,baking ,sidenote3 ,asbestos paper4 ,the baking of many articles is a more important matter than the mixing4 ,there are no definite tests for ovens1 therefore one has to learn by experience and careful watching the capabilities or faults of the ovens used4 ,a common trouble is from not having them thoroughly cleaned of the ashes which settle under the ovens and prevent the heat reaching the bottom part4 ,it is usual to have them hotter on the fire side4 ,in this case it is necessary to turn frequently the articles being baked1 or1 where this cannot be done1 to interpose a screen to protect them from burning4 ,asbestos paper1 which is now sold at very low cost at house-furnishing stores1 is a convenient thing to place against the side of the oven1 or on the shelf of the oven if the excessive heat is on top4 ,a tin1 or a piece of brown paper1 will1 however1 ordinarily serve the purpose4 ,directions for baking bread and cake are given at the heads of those chapters4 ,to lower the heat of an oven1 if closing the damper is not sufficient1 open the lid of the range over the oven a little way4 ,sometimes a pan of cold water put on the shelf of the oven will effect the purpose4 ,when baking meats1 the oven should be very hot at first1 and after the meat is seared the heat should be lowered1 so the cooking will be done slowly4 ,,roasting ,roasting is done before the fire1 and should not be confused with baking1 which is done in the oven4 ,roasted meats have a distinctly better flavor than baked ones4 ,the latter are likely to taste of smoke unless the oven is frequently opened for basting1 as few of them are sufficiently ventilated to free them of smoke and steam4 ,baking is the method generally employed in small households1 but where the grate of the range is sufficiently large1 and the front can be exposed1 it will be found no more trouble to roast than to bake the meats1 and the improvement will well repay the trouble of changing a habit4 ,tin ovens 7,dutch ovens7 are made for this use1 with a clockwork to turn the spit1 so the only care is to baste1 which has to be done in either case1 and to keep the fire bright1 which is done by adding a few coals at a time if necessary4 ,the meat should at first be placed near the coals to sear the outside1 and then be drawn back where it will cook at lower heat4 ,,broiling ,meat cooked by broiling is exposed to a greater heat than in any other manner of cooking1 and to prevent its burning1 requires constant watching4 ,meats for broiling are cut thin1 and much surface is exposed1 therefore they must be at once exposed to intense heat to sear the surface and retain the juices4 ,frequent turning not only prevents burning1 but gives slower cooking and also prevents the grease dripping into the fire1 making a smoke which destroys the flavor of the meat4 ,the rule for broiling is to have bright coals without flame1 drafts open to carry off smoke1 and meat turned as often as one counts ten 7see broiling beefsteak1 page #aef74 ,in this way the result will be satisfactory1 the meat will be puffed and elastic from the confined steam of the juices1 will have a seared crust1 and the rest evenly cooked through and of the same color4 ,when the puffed appearance of broiled meats begins to disappear it means the moisture is evaporating through the crust1 which will leave it hard and dry4 ,chops wrapped tight in oiled paper before being broiled are especially good 7see page #aff74 ,the paper will not burn if turned as directed above4 ,although broiling with a double wire-broiler over or under bright coals is the approved way1 it can be accomplished in a hot pan when coals are not accessible4 ,in this instance a frying-pan is heated very hot1 then rubbed with suet to prevent the meat from sticking1 and the meat is turned frequently as in the other method4 ,this manner of broiling is recommended only as an expedient1 as hot iron does not give the same result as hot coals4 ,,braising ,meat cooked by braising is shut in a closely-covered pot with a few slices of salt pork 7laid under the meat to prevent its sticking to the pot71 a mixture of vegetables1 cut into dice1 a little soup stock or water1 and a bouquet of herbs1 and cooked slowly in the confined steam4 ,this method of cooking tough or dry meats makes them tender and of good flavor4 ,braised dishes are much esteemed4 ,,fricasseeing ,meat cooked in this way is first sauted to keep in its juices1 then stewed until tender and served in a white or brown gravy1 made from the liquor in the pot in which the meat is stewed4 ,toasted bread and sometimes dumplings are served with it4 ,in the latter case it is called a pot-pie4 ,,sauteing ,a little fat is put in a shallow pan2 when this is hot1 the articles to be cooked are laid in and browned on both sides4 ,this manner of cooking is by many miscalled frying1 and is largely responsible for the disrepute of frying1 as sauted articles are likely to be greasy and indigestible4 ,,frying ,sidenote3 ,heating the fat4 ,sidenote3 ,to extinguish fire from grease4 ,sidenote3 ,spattering4 ,sidenote3 ,color of fried articles4 ,frying is cooking by immersion in very hot fat4 ,the success of frying depends upon the fat being sufficiently hot1 and enough fat being used to completely cover the articles cooked in it4 ,a kettle for frying should be kept for that purpose alone1 and started with enough fat to fill it two thirds full4 ,olive-oil1 lard1 cottolene1 drippings1 or any mixture of them1 serve the purpose4 ,when properly used but little fat is consumed1 and the pot can be easily replenished with the right quantity for its next use4 ,each time1 after using the fat1 a slice of raw potato should be dropped in to clarify it2 it should then be strained through a cloth and returned to the pot1 be covered when cold1 and set away until again wanted4 ,this fat can be used for potatoes1 and anything which is coated with egg and crumbs4 ,if fish without this coating are fried in it1 it will then be unsuitable for other purposes4 ,a pot of fat will with care last for months1 but should be clarified as often as necessary 7see below74 ,when the fat is to be used1 the frying-kettle should be placed on the range an hour before the time it is needed4 ,it will then become gradually hot1 and at the right moment can be quickly raised to the smoking heat needed for frying4 ,it takes some time for fat to reach this temperature2 and if this preparatory measure is not taken1 a cook1 when hurried1 is likely to use it before the right heat is attained1 or to place it on the open fire1 which is attended with great danger4 ,many persons are seriously burned from this imprudence4 ,when fat boils over and takes fire1 the best extinguisher is ashes4 ,if the cook's clothes take fire1 the best thing to do is to wrap the skirts together and roll on the floor until assistance comes4 ,with ordinary care there need be no accidents4 ,dropping grease on the range or clothes can be avoided by holding a tin plate under the frying-basket when removing it from the kettle4 ,when the articles to be fried are prepared1 the wire basket should be dipped into the fat to grease it1 the articles laid in1 a few at a time1 without touching one another1 the basket hung on an iron or wooden spoon1 and slowly lowered into the fat4 ,too many articles must not be put in at the same time1 or the heat of the fat will be too much reduced4 ,spattering is caused by water contained in the articles being turned to steam and throwing out the fat2 hence1 one reason for making them very dry and of lowering them gradually into the fat4 ,when fat is sufficiently hot it at once sears the outside of everything placed in it1 and forms a crust through which the grease cannot penetrate and be absorbed by the food4 ,egg and crumbs are used for the purpose of thus encrusting the outside of made dishes1 like croquettes4 ,the mistake should not be made of leaving articles too long in the fat2 a lemon color1 which is the one desired1 is quickly attained4 ,when lifted from the fat1 the basket should be held for a few minutes1 or until through dripping1 over the kettle1 which is the hottest place to be found1 the articles then placed on a brown paper without touching one another1 and set in the open oven1 or on the hot shelf1 until perfectly dry4 ,if so treated the grease will evaporate1 and the articles become so free from it as not to leave a mark on the napkin on which they are served4 ,articles properly prepared and fried in this manner can be no more unwholesome than meat which is basted with drippings4 ,the fat should be given time to again rise to the smoking heat before a second basketful of articles is immersed4 ,when frying articles which take a little time to cook1 the pot should be drawn to a cooler part of the range1 after the first few minutes4 ,the coating will then be formed1 and the cooking can proceed more slowly1 and the articles will not brown too much before they are cooked4 ,croquettes1 being made of cooked meat1 need to remain in the fat only long enough to color and become heated4 ,illustration3 ,,frying ,,kettle ,,and ,,basket4 #a4 ,frying ,kettle4 #b4 ,wire ,basket and ,iron ,spoon for lifting the ,frying ,basket4 7,see page #gb47 ,,to ,,clarify ,,fat ,sidenote3 ,bubbling fat4 ,when fat becomes discolored and unfit for use1 stir into it when melted one half teaspoonful of baking soda and a quart of water4 ,let it boil for a little time1 take off the scum that rises1 and set the pot aside until cold4 ,remove the cake of grease1 scrape off all the impurities1 put it again on the fire1 where it will melt but will not be agitated1 and let it remain undisturbed until all the water has evaporated and the remaining impurities have settled to the bottom2 then pour off the clear grease4 ,when fat bubbles it means there is water in it1 not that it is hot4 ,,to ,,try ,,out ,,suet ,,and ,,other ,,fats ,cut the fat into pieces1 place it in a shallow pan over moderate heat until the fat is melted1 then strain it through a cloth4 ,there will be no odor from the fat if not placed where it becomes too hot4 ,all kinds of fats are good for frying except mutton fat1 turkey fat1 and fat from smoked meats2 these can be used for making soap1 as directed on page #bei4 ,,to ,,prepare ,,articles ,,for ,,frying ,,by ,,covering ,,them ,,with ,,egg ,,and ,,crumbs ,sidenote3 ,the ,crumbs4 ,all scraps of bread should be saved for crumbs1 as directed on page #ea1 the crusts being separated from the white part1 then dried1 rolled1 and sifted4 ,the brown crumbs are good for the first coating1 the white ones for the outside1 as they give better color4 ,where a very delicate color is wanted1 bread grated from a stale loaf or rubbed through a coarse sieve gives better results2 the fresh crumbs need not be very fine4 ,cracker crumbs give a smooth surface and are better for oysters than bread crumbs1 but for most things bread crumbs are preferable4 ,for meats a little salt and pepper1 and for sweet articles a little sugar1 should be mixed with the crumbs4 ,crumbs left on the board should be dried1 sifted1 and kept to be used again4 ,sidenote3 ,the ,egg4 ,sidenote3 ,molding4 ,the whole egg is generally used4 ,the white alone will serve1 but not the yolk alone1 as it is the albumen which is needed4 ,the albumen quickly coagulates when put into the hot fat1 and forms a coating through which the grease will not penetrate4 ,to one egg is added one tablespoonful of water1 so as to make it thin enough to run and remove the stringiness of the egg2 these are beaten lightly together1 but should not be foamy1 as bubbles break and leave holes for the grease to enter4 ,where delicate color is wanted1 it is better to use the white of the egg only and fresh crumbs4 ,turn the crumbs on to a board2 roll the articles first in the crumbs to dry them well1 then place them in the beaten egg one at a time1 and with a spoon pour the egg over and moisten them thoroughly2 return them to the board1 and completely cover them with crumbs4 ,soft1 creamy mixtures like croquettes require delicate handling1 and are easier to manage if first made into a ball1--molding them into shape being left until the second crumbing1 at which time they can be rolled into cylindrical form and the ends flattened by dropping them lightly on the board4 ,they will keep their shape better if1 after being prepared1 they are allowed to stand an hour or more before being fried4 7,see croquettes1 page #bic47 ,illustration3 #a4 ,,piece ,,of ,,meat ,,larded4 #b4 ,,larding ,,needles4 #c4 ,,lardoons4 ,,larding ,sidenote3 ,cutting lardoons4 ,larding is simply drawing small pieces of salt pork through the surface of meat4 ,it is easily done1 and so much improves lean1 dry pieces of meat as to well repay the trouble4 ,the pork for larding is best cut lengthwise with the rind1 and that nearest the rind is the firmest4 ,cut it into slices1 one quarter inch thick1 and then into strips one quarter inch wide and two inches long4 ,the lardoons can be made firmer by placing them on ice1 but ordinarily this is not necessary4 ,the larding needle holding a lardoon is pressed through the surface of the meat1 taking a stitch about a quarter inch deep and an inch long1 then drawn through1 leaving the lardoon projecting on both sides4 ,the stitches should be taken at regular intervals1 so as to appear ornamental1 and when all the lardoons are in they should be cut even4 ,for birds or small pieces1 the lardoons would of course be cut of a size to suit the needle used4 ,,daubing ,daubing is cutting through the entire thickness of the meat in several places and inserting lardoons of salt pork4 ,the cut is made with a thin1 sharp knife4 ,,boning ,sidenote3 ,fowls4 ,sidenote3 ,meats4 ,cutting the meat free from the bones1 leaving the meat whole1 is called boning4 ,this is easily done with a sharp-pointed knife1 and requires but little practice to accomplish successfully4 ,directions for boning fowls are given on page #aha4 ,boned fowls are usually made into galantine1 but they are also good when stuffed and pressed into natural shape1 or to imitate a duck or a rabbit and served hot4 ,the butcher will remove the bones from joints of meat when requested4 ,boned meats make an agreeable change1 and in the case of shoulder pieces make them suitable to serve as roasts 7see pages #afc and #afh74 ,chops with the bones removed1 the tail ends wrapped around the meat and secured with wooden toothpicks or with small skewers until cooked1 resemble in form filets mignons4 ,,measuring ,sidenote3 ,measuring-cup4 ,exact measurements are an important factor in the success of cooking1 therefore a definite understanding of what a cupful or a spoonful means is requisite4 ,a cupful means one half pint4 ,a tin cup holding this amount is as necessary as a quart measure in every kitchen4 ,they can be bought for ten cents apiece in any house-furnishing store4 ,a spoonful of butter1 lard1 sugar1 or flour means a rounding spoonful1 as much rising above the spoon as is held in the bowl4 ,a spoonful of salt or spices means only as much as the bowl holds1 the top being smoothed off with a knife4#gg-99 ,one half spoonful means the half of the contents of the bowl divided lengthwise4 ,a heaping spoonful means as much as the spoon can be made to hold4 ,a table giving comparative weights and measures is given on page #chg4 ,illustration3 ,,measuring ,,cup ,,and ,,spoons4 #a4 ,tin measuring cup holding one half-pint4 #b4 ,spoonful of salt1 pepper or spices4 #c4 ,one half spoonful4 #d4 ,spoonful of flour1 sugar1 or butter4 #e4 ,heaping spoonful4 7,see page #gg47 ,,stirring ,,and ,,beating ,these two methods should not be confused4 ,the object of stirring is to mix the materials4 ,the spoon is held on the bottom of the dish1 and the materials rubbed and pressed together as much as possible4 ,it is not essential to always stir one way4 ,the object of beating is to get air into the mixture to make it lighter1 which is done by continuously lifting it up in the same way2 therefore a beaten mixture must not be stirred1 or the imprisoned bubbles of air will be broken and the result of the beating lost4 ,,how ,,to ,,stone ,,olives ,with a sharp-pointed knife cut through the olive to the stone on the blossom end and pare off the meat1 turning the olive around three times1 keeping the knife at not too sharp an angle close to the stone4 ,the meat will then be in one curled piece1 which can be pressed into its original shape again4 ,,how ,,to ,,cut ,,bacon ,place the bacon on a board with the rind down4 ,with a very sharp knife slice the bacon very thin down to the rind1 but do not try to cut through it4 ,when enough slices are cut1 run the knife under1 keeping it close to the rind1 and the slices will be free4 ,illustration3 ,,cutting ,,bacon4 7,,see ,,page #gh47 ,,how ,,to ,,extract ,,onion ,,juice ,cut an onion across and press it against a coarse grater1 moving it a very little2 the juice will then run off the point of the grater4 ,,caramel ,caramel is used to color soup1 gravies1 etc41 and serves also as a flavoring for desserts4 ,it must be used with care for coloring1 as it also sweetens4 ,the flavor of caramel depends upon the degree to which the sugar is cooked before the water is added4 ,it grows stronger as it becomes browner4 ,put one half cupful of granulated sugar and two tablespoonfuls of water into a granite-ware saucepan1 stir until the sugar has melted1 then let it cook without stirring until it has turned dark brown1 but not black1 then add one half cupful of hot water1 and let it simmer until the sugar is dissolved and cooked to a thin syrup4 ,,to ,,make ,,roux ,put one tablespoonful of butter into a saucepan4 ,when it bubbles add one tablespoonful of flour and let them cook together for a few minutes1 stirring all the time4 ,if it is to be used as thickening for a white sauce or soup1 do not let it color4 ,if for brown soup or sauce1 let it become brown4 ,this amount is sufficient to thicken one cupful of milk or of stock1 to make a sauce1 or to thicken one pint or more of soup4 ,roux can be prepared and kept in jars ready for use4 ,the proportion of equal quantities of butter and flour is usually taken1 and is the rule1 but in some cases double the flour is used4 ,the flour cooked in this way gives a better result than when rubbed with the butter and stirred into the liquid4 ,cooking flour in hot fat seems to more surely burst the starch-grains1 which removes the raw taste it is likely to have if cooked only in the boiling liquid4 ,,to ,,marinate ,make a mixture in the proportion of three tablespoonfuls of vinegar to two of oil1 one teaspoonful of salt1 one quarter teaspoonful of pepper1 one bay-leaf1 one teaspoonful onion juice1 and a sprig of parsley4 ,put it on a flat dish and lay any cooked or raw meat in the marinade for an hour or more before using1 turning the pieces often4 ,enough flavor is absorbed to much improve meats or fish to be used for salads1 fish to be fried or boiled1 and other cases given in receipts4 ,the onion juice may be omitted if desired4 ,,salpicon ,a salpicon is a mixture of cooked meats1 which are cut into dice and combined with a sauce1 mushrooms1 and truffles4 ,chicken1 sweetbreads1 and tongue mixed with mushrooms and truffles and moistened with a ,bechamel sauce1 is a combination often used4 ,salpicon is used in timbales1 patties1 and vol-au-vent4 ,a mixture of fruits seasoned with sugar and wine is also called a salpicon4 ,,seasoning ,,and ,,flavoring4 ,sidenote3 ,condiments4 ,the savoriness of a dish can often be much enhanced by adding a few drops of ,worcestershire sauce1 of mushroom or tomato catsup1 of kitchen bouquet1 by a few celery seeds1 a bay-leaf1 or a sprig of some dried herb4 ,a little tarragon vinegar or a few capers will often much improve a salad4 ,sidenote3 ,almonds4 ,sidenote3 ,orange peel4 ,a half dozen chopped almonds will greatly improve a bread pudding or any other simple dessert4 ,a few shreds of candied orange peel will give a delicious flavor to puddings1 sauces1 and cake4 ,a flavor of almonds1 orange- or rose-water1 sherry1 or maraschino1 will be an agreeable change from vanilla1 and much more wholesome4 ,some cooks feel they are called upon to do fancy cooking if expected to use a bay-leaf or an almond2 others feel a receipt is extravagant or impracticable if it calls for anything in the line of flavors beyond salt and pepper1 lemon juice1 vanilla1 or raisins2 but there is no more extravagance in using different condiments than in using always the same1 or those which from habit have established themselves in the favor of every housekeeper4 ,none of the condiments are expensive1 and so little is used at a time that one bottleful lasts a long time4 ,all the flavoring extracts are the same price1 and the expense of a few almonds is only nominal1 therefore it is a pity not to have a variety of such articles in the dresser1 and give variety to dishes by at least the very simple means of changing flavors4 ,a cottage pudding with a little shredded orange peel1 nuts1 or cocoanut in it1 or with a chocolate1 wine1 or meringue sauce1 will be an agreeable change from the plain pudding with hard sauce4 ,the same may be said of a corn-starch or a rice pudding1 of a custard1 and of many other things4 ,,croutons ,,and ,,croustades ,croutons or crusts are used in pea1 bean1 and all cream soups1 for garnishing all kinds of stewed dishes1 and for any dish with which toast would be acceptable4 ,when cut large and filled they are called croustades4 ,to make croutons or croustades1 cut bread into the desired shape and saute the pieces in hot butter1 or dip them in melted butter and toast them carefully in the oven1 turning frequently1 so they will be evenly colored2 or they may be fried in smoking-hot fat4 ,they should be crisp and dry and the color of amber4 ,they are made of various sizes and shapes to suit the uses they are to serve4 ,for soups the bread is cut into cubes one quarter inch square or into fancy shapes2 for garnishing meat dishes they are cut into diamonds1 squares1 triangles1 and circles2 for sippets to eat with boiled eggs1 into strips one half inch wide and four inches long2 for poached eggs1 into circles four inches in diameter4 ,sidenote3 ,for ,soups4 ,to make croutons for soup1 cut bread into slices one quarter of an inch thick1 take off the crust1 then cut it into strips one quarter of an inch wide and then across into even squares2 or with vegetable cutters cut the sliced bread into fancy shapes4 ,sidenote3 ,triangles4 ,for triangles1 cut a slice of bread one half inch thick1 then into strips one and a quarter inches wide1 then into pieces two or three inches long1 then diagonally across4 ,sidenote3 ,pyramidal ,pieces4 ,for pyramidal pieces1 cut the bread into one inch squares and cut diagonally across the cube4 ,when used for garnishing they may be moistened a little on one side with white of egg1 and will then stick to the dish sufficiently to hold in place4 ,a circle of pyramidal pieces makes a good border to inclose minced meat1 creamed fish1 etc4 ,sidenote3 ,circles4 ,circles for poached eggs are cut with a biscuit cutter three inches in diameter1 and may be toasted in the ordinary way if preferred4 ,sidenote3 ,boxes4 ,for boxes cut bread from which the crust has been removed into pieces two and a half inches thick1 two and a half inches wide and three and a half inches long1 then with a pointed knife cut a line around the inside one half of an inch from the edge and carefully remove the crumb1 leaving a box with sides and bottom one half inch in thickness4 ,the boxes may be cut round if preferred1 using two sizes of biscuit cutters4 ,they are browned the same as other croutons1 and are used for creamed spinach1 creamed chicken1 creamed fish1 etc4 ,a five cent square loaf of bread cuts to good advantage4 ,illustration3 ,,croutons ,,and ,,croustades4 7,,see ,,page #ha47 #a4 ,sippets to use with boiled eggs4 #b4 ,pyramidal ,pieces for ,borders4 #c1 #d1 #f4 ,bread ,boxes4 #e4 ,triangles for ,garnishing4 #g4 ,croustade for ,poached ,egg1 ,creamed ,meats1 etc4 #h4 ,croutons for ,soups4 ,,chartreuse ,chartreuse is a liqueur made by the monks of the ,french monastery of ,grande ,chartreuse2 but a class of dishes has also been given this name1 where two or more foods are used one of which conceals the others4 ,the story goes that on fast days the monks were thus able to indulge in forbidden food1 and savory viands were hidden under cabbage or other severely plain articles4 ,chartreuses are made by lining a mold with rice1 a vegetable1 or a forcemeat1 and filling the center with a different food4 ,two vegetables are sometimes so combined1 but more often game or meats are inclosed in rice and served with a good sauce4 7,see illustration facing page #aij47 ,sidenote3 ,en ,bellevue4 ,fruits are made into chartreuses by inclosing them in blanc-mange or puddings4 ,when meats are molded in aspic jelly they are called ,en ,bellevue as in this case they are not concealed4 ,illustration3 ,,some ,,useful ,,utensils4 #a1 #b4 ,small ,pointed ,knives for ,vegetables1 ,boning1 etc4 #c4 ,fluted ,knife for cutting potato straws1 or cutting vegetables into fancy shapes4 #d4 ,tuller ,knife4 ,useful for pastry and all work done on a board4 #e4 ,broad-bladed ,knife or ,spatula4 #f4 ,saw4 #g4 ,bread or ,cake ,knife4 #h1 #i4 ,small ,wooden ,spoons4 ,,footnotes3 #gg-99 ,cooking schools have recently adopted the rule of using even spoonfuls for every spoon measurement4 ,this ensures great exactness4--,m4 ,r4 ,,chapter ,,ii ,,soups ,as nothing is easier than making good soups1 they should be the first lesson in cooking4 ,they are one of the most nutritious and inexpensive foods presented1 and have a very wide range1 extending from the clear1 transparent soups1 through many degrees of consistency1 color and material1 to the heavy varieties which contain enough nourishment for a meal in themselves4 ,the pot-au-feu as managed in the families of the ,french peasantry furnishes their chief source of diet4 ,the pot on the fire receives every bit of nutritious material of every kind2 by slow cooking the juices and flavors are extracted1 and a savory combination is made which is both pleasant to the taste and satisfying to the hunger4 ,the stock-pot should be on every range1 and its contents ever ready to be drawn upon1 not only for soup1 but for sauces1 and for flavoring the numerous dishes which can be enriched and improved by stock4#hd-99 ,the many kinds of soups are variations of the few kinds of stock4 ,sidenote3 ,brown ,stock1 see page #hh4 ,the brown stock is made from beef1 or from beef1 veal1 and fowl combined1 and mixed vegetables4 ,sidenote3 ,white ,stock1 see page #ii4 ,white stock is made of veal and chicken together1 or from veal alone1 seasoned with onion1 celery1 white pepper1 and salt1 nothing being used which will give color4 ,sidenote3 ,chicken ,consomme or ,broth1 see page #ih4 ,chicken stock is made from the fowl alone1 and seasoned with celery1 white pepper1 and salt4 ,sidenote3 ,cream ,soups1 see page #aje4 ,cream soups are made without stock1 the basis being vegetables boiled and mashed to a puree by being pressed through a colander or sieve1 then mixed with cream or milk and seasoned to taste4 ,sidenote3 ,soup ,meats4 ,the meats used for soups are3 the lower or tough part of the round1 the shin1 and the neck pieces of beef1 the knuckle of veal1 and fowls4 ,mutton is not used except for mutton broth4 ,a very little ham is sometimes used2 game also gives good flavor4 ,bones contain gelatine and cause the stock to jelly when cold4 ,sidenote3 ,soup ,vegetables4 ,the soup vegetables are onions1 carrots1 turnips1 and celery4 ,they are cut into small pieces and are sometimes fried before being added to the soup pot4 ,sidenote3 ,the ,bouquet4 ,parsley wrapped around peppercorns1 cloves1 bay-leaves and other herbs1 excepting sage1 and tied1 makes what is called a bouquet4 ,in this shape the herbs are more easily removed4 ,sidenote3 ,proportions4 ,the proportions are one quart of cold water to a pound of meat1 and to four quarts of water one each of the vegetables of medium size1 named above1 two sticks of celery1 and a bouquet containing one root of parsley with leaves1 one bay-leaf1 twelve peppercorns1 six cloves1--one sprig of thyme1 and sweet marjoram if desired4 ,sidenote3 ,the order of preparing ,soups4 ,in making good soup the first essential is a perfectly clean pot4 ,i would emphasize the word clean4 ,first have the pot thoroughly washed with soda and water to remove any grease1 then scoured with sapolio to take off any bits of burned or hardened matter4 ,the meat should be wiped clean with a wet cloth and carefully examined to see if there are any tainted spots1 then cut into pieces about one and a half inches square 7except in the case where a round of beef is used1 which is to be removed when tender and served as bouilli74 ,the meat and bones must be put into cold water in order to extract the juices1 and never be allowed to boil4 ,slow cooking best effects the object desired 7see article on boiling1 page #fg74 ,after the meat has stood fifteen minutes in cold water1 put it on the fire1 cover1 and let it come slowly to the simmering-point1 then place on the back of range to simmer for six hours or more4 ,an hour before the cooking is completed1 add the vegetables1 cut into small pieces4 ,when the soup is to be served clear1 it is well to remove the scum as it rises1 but this is not essential1 for much of it comes off when the soup is strained1 and perfectly clear soup requires clarifying in any case4 ,the ,french receipts all say remove the scum1 but as it is a nutrient part of the meat1 unless clearness is desired1 it seems better to let it remain during the period of cooking4 ,sidenote3 ,removing the ,grease4 ,when the soup has simmered five or six hours1 it should be strained into an earthen bowl and left to cool uncovered4 ,under no circumstances let it stand in the pot after it is cooked4 ,the grease will rise to the top and form a cake which can be easily removed when cold4 ,any little particles which may stick to the jelly may be wiped off with a cloth wet in hot water4 ,where a quantity of stock is made at one time1 it is well to strain it into two or even three bowls2 the grease forms an air-tight cover and will help to keep it from souring4 ,stock should be made the day before it is to be used in order to let the grease rise and the floating particles settle1 but where it is needed at once1 the grease that cannot be skimmed off with a spoon can be absorbed by passing tissue paper over it carefully4 ,sidenote3 ,clarifying4 ,soup can be made perfectly clear by taking the jellied stock from which every particle of grease and sediment has been removed1 and stirring into it1 while cold1 the slightly-beaten white and crushed shell of one egg to each quart of stock4 ,it must be stirred constantly until the soup is hot enough to coagulate the albumen1 by which time it has thoroughly mixed with and imprisoned the fine particles which cloud the liquid4 ,let it boil violently for five minutes1 then let it stand five minutes longer on the side of the range to settle4 ,strain through a fine cloth laid on a sieve4 ,let it drain through without pressing4 ,in some cases a small bit of lemon rind used with the egg in clearing gives a pleasant flavor to the soup4 ,after clearing it will ordinarily need to be heated again before serving4 ,in high-class cooking1 soups are cleared with chopped raw meat or chicken1 which adds to1 instead of detracting from the richness of the soup4 ,the albumen of egg does not materially affect the quality of the soup1 and is recommended for general practice4#hg-99 ,sidenote3 ,coloring4 ,if a deeper color is wanted1 it may be obtained by adding a very little caramel 7see page #gh7 or a few drops of a preparation called ,kitchen ,bouquet4 ,artificial coloring1 however1 is not so good as that obtained by browning the vegetables and part of the meat before adding them to the soup pot4 7,see brown stock1 page #hh47 ,sidenote3 ,names4 ,the meat soups are called broths1 bouillon1 or consomme1 according to their richness4 ,the purees are thick soups made with or without stock1 the basis being mashed vegetables or meat pounded to a paste4 ,sidenote3 ,meat ,stock4 ,stock made of meat alone will keep better than where vegetables are used4 ,in warm weather it is well to have it so prepared4 ,,common ,,stock 7,,pot-,,au-,,feu7 ,for this stock pieces of fresh or cooked meat are used1 also all odds and ends1 chicken bones1 gravies1 cooked or raw vegetables1 etc4 ,water in which fish or vegetables 7excepting cabbage or potatoes7 have been boiled may or may not be used4 ,they are put together cold and are simmered for five or six hours1 then strained through a colander into an earthen bowl and left to cool uncovered4 ,clear soup should not be attempted with this stock1 but it is good to combine with vegetables for vegetable soup1 or with other mixtures like rice1 bits of meat1 chicken1 gumbo1 etc41 for soup and to use for sauces and seasoning4 ,,beef ,,or ,,brown ,,stock #h lbs4 of shin of beef4 #h quarts of cold water4 #a medium-sized carrot4 #a medium-sized turnip4 #a parsley root and leaves4 #a onion4 #a stick of celery4 #ab peppercorns4 #f cloves4 #a tablespoonful of salt4 ,rub with a wet cloth the outside of the shin of beef1 which has been well broken by the butcher4 ,take the meat from the bones and cut it into small pieces4 ,put aside a half pound of the meat4 ,place the rest of the meat and the bones in a perfectly clean pot with the cold water1 and let it stand fifteen to twenty minutes1 or until the water is red2 then place them on the fire and let them come slowly to the simmering point4 ,meanwhile1 place in a saute-pan some of the marrow from the bones1 or a tablespoonful of drippings4 ,when the fat is hot put in the half pound of reserved meat and cook it until it is well browned4 ,when the water in the pot has begun to simmer1 put in the browned meat and rinse the saute-pan with a few spoonfuls of water so none of the value of the browned meat will be lost4 ,this will give good color and also flavor to the soup4 ,place the pot where the water will simmer only1 and leave it to cook for six hours1 or until the meat is cooked to shreds and its nutriment fully extracted4 ,add the vegetables1 which have been well washed1 scraped1 and cut into pieces1 one hour before the cooking is completed1 and add the salt just before removing the stock from the fire4 ,if a clear soup is not desired1 the care to keep it below the boiling point is not essential4 7,see note1 page #hg47 ,when the stock is done strain it through a close cloth or a fine sieve into an earthen bowl1 and let it cool without covering4 ,when ready to serve1 remove the grease1 clear it if desired for transparent soup1 add more pepper and salt to taste4 ,,for ,,macaroni1 ,,noodle1 ,,vermicelli1 ,,vegetable ,,or ,,printaniere1 ,,julienne1 ,,tapioca1 ,,and ,,croute-,,au-,,pot ,,soups1 ,take as much of the beef stock as will be needed1 allowing one half pint for each person1 remove all the grease1 heat it1 and season to taste4 ,just before serving add any of the above articles1 which must have been boiled separately4 ,the soup will then have the name of the ingredient used4 ,sidenote3 ,julienne4 ,julienne does not differ from the vegetable soup except in the form given the vegetables4 ,for julienne1 the outside or deep yellow of the carrot1 turnip1 and celery are cut1 with a knife which comes for the purpose1 into thin1 thread-like pieces about two inches long4 ,the shredded vegetables must be boiled before being added to the soup1 and care used to prevent their breaking or becoming too soft to hold their form1 or they may be fried in butter until tender4 ,green peas1 asparagus tips1 and flowerets of cauliflower may also be added4 7,see illustration facing page #ib47 ,sidenote3 ,printaniere4 ,any vegetables may be used for vegetable soup1 but judgment should be shown in the combination4 ,they may be made ornamental by being cut into fancy shapes with cutters1 or into balls with a small potato scoop1 or they may be cut into dice4 ,illustration3 ,,printaniere ,,and ,,julienne ,,soup ,,vegetables4 7,,see ,,page #hi47 #a1 #b1 #c4 ,cutters used for cutting vegetables for ,printaniere ,soup4 #d4 ,vegetables prepared for ,printaniere ,soup4 #e4 ,knife for cutting vegetables into ,julienne4 #f4 ,julienne4 ,sidenote3 ,tapioca4 ,pearl tapioca boiled to clearness makes a very pretty thickening to clear soup4 ,sidenote3 ,croute au ,pot4 ,small pieces of toast or thin shavings of stale bread are added to the tureen just before serving to make the croute-au-pot4 ,the soup should be served before the bread dissolves or gets very soft4 ,for julienne1 tapioca1 and croute-au-pot1 the soup should be perfectly clear and a deep amber color4 ,sidenote3 ,garnishes for ,soups4 ,other garnishes which may be added to soups are3 ,force-meat balls 7see page #ib72 yolks of hard-boiled eggs2 egg balls 7see page #ib72 royal custard 7see page #ib72 fried croutons 7see page #ha72 noodles 7see page #ic72 dumplings 7see page #agj72 thin cross-cuts of celery2 thin slices of lemon1 one for each plate2 grated ,parmesan cheese 7passed72 macaroni cut into pieces one eighth of an inch thick1 making rings2 sweet potato balls 7see page #id72 marrow balls 7see page #id72 green pea timbale 7see page #id72 harlequin slices 7see page #id72 with consomme1 a poached egg for each portion4 ,,thickening ,,for ,,soups ,roux 7see page #gi7 makes the best thickening for soups which are not clear1 using brown or white roux according to the color of the soup4 ,thin the roux with a little soup1 so it will be smooth before adding it to the soup kettle4 ,roux added to pea1 bean1 and potato soups prevents their separating4 ,a thickening of eggs is made as follows3 ,beat two or three yolks and dilute them with a half a cupful of cream or milk or cold soup4 ,stir in a few spoonfuls of the hot soup to warm it4 ,remove the soup from the fire and stir in slowly the egg mixture1 return it to the fire to cook the egg1 but do not let it boil1 or it may curdle4 ,clear soups are sometimes thickened by using one teaspoonful of arrowroot to a quart of soup4 ,mix the arrowroot with a little of the cold soup1 turn it into the hot soup1 and cook until it becomes clear4 ,a clear soup so thickened may be flavored with sherry4 ,,footnotes3 #hd-99 ,it is not meant to imply that the stock-pot should never be removed from the range and that articles should be added at any time4 ,when the nutriment is extracted from one collection of materials1 the stock should be strained off1 the pot thoroughly cleaned1 and a new stock started as soon as enough materials have again accumulated4--,m4 ,r4 #hg-99 ,it will be difficult if not impossible to make a perfectly clear and brilliant soup from stock where bones have been used1 if the stock has been subjected to boiling heat4 ,boiling dissolves the lime in the bones1 and this gives a cloudiness which clarifying will not entirely remove4--,m4 ,r4 ,,garnishes ,,for ,,soups ,,royale ,a ,,custard ,,to ,,serve ,,with ,,consomme #b yolks4 #a entire egg4 #a_/c teaspoonful of salt4 ,dash of cayenne4 #a_/b cupful of beef stock4 ,beat the eggs well1 but not to a froth4 ,add one third of a teaspoonful of salt and one half cupful of clear beef stock4 ,pour the mixture into a small pan or flat dish1 so it will be about one half inch deep4 ,set the pan into another one containing hot water and place them in a very moderate oven1 so that the custard will set without bubbles and without browning on top4 ,let the custard become perfectly cold4 ,without removing it from the pan1 cut it into cubes one half inch square1 or into fancy forms1 with vegetable cutters4 ,these pieces should be placed carefully in the consomme after it is in the tureen1 allowing three or four pieces to each portion of soup4 ,,force-,,meat ,,balls ,chop any cooked meat very fine1 season highly with salt1 pepper1 thyme1 onion juice1 lemon juice1 and herbs if desired2 add enough yolk of egg to moisten and bind the meat4 ,mold into balls one half inch in diameter1 roll the balls in flour1 and poach them in boiling water1 or they may be fried in butter4 ,force-meat balls may also be made of raw meat prepared as for timbale paste 7see page #big74 ,illustration3 ,,radishes ,,cut ,,to ,,imitate ,,roses4 ,,egg ,,balls ,rub to a paste1 with a wooden spoon1 the yolks of hard-boiled eggs2 season with salt1 pepper1 and butter2 add enough raw yolk to bind the paste2 form it into balls one half the size of a natural yolk2 roll them in white of egg and then in flour1 and poach the balls in boiling water for a few minutes4 ,three yolks will make five balls4 ,one ball is enough to allow to each portion of soup4 ,,noodles ,several dishes may be made from noodles4 ,to three eggs 7slightly beaten7 mixed with two tablespoonfuls of water and a little salt1 add enough flour to make a stiff dough2 work it well for fifteen or twenty minutes1 adding flour when necessary4 ,when it is smooth and elastic1 cut off a small piece at a time and roll it as thin as a wafer4 ,it can be rolled very thin by placing a cloth under it4 ,sprinkle the thin sheet with flour1 and roll it into a rather tight roll4 ,with a sharp knife cut it1 from the end1--into threads1 if for soup2 if to use as a vegetable1 into ribbons one quarter inch wide4 ,let them dry an hour or more4 ,they will keep the same as macaroni4 ,illustration3 ,,noodles4 7,,see ,,page #ic47 #a4 ,sheet of ,noodle ,paste4 #b4 ,noodles for ,soup4 #c4 ,noodles to serve as vegetable4 #d4 ,noodle ,balls4 #e4 ,sheet of ,noodle ,paste ,rolled4 #f4 ,paste cut from ,roll4 #g4 ,noodle ,paste cut for ,balls before being fried4 ,,noodles ,,served ,,as ,a ,,vegetable ,throw a few noodles at a time into boiling1 salted water2 boil them until they are done1 separating them carefully with a fork to prevent their matting together4 ,skim them out when done1 and keep them on a warm dish on the hot shelf until enough are cooked4 ,season with butter4 ,put them in the dish in which they are to be served1 and sprinkle over them bread crumbs browned in hot butter to a golden color4 ,this dish may be served with fish1 with meat1 or as a course by itself4 ,noodles may also be cooked like macaroni1 with cheese4 ,,noodle ,,balls ,take some of the noodle paste made as directed above4 ,roll it as thin as possible1 then place it on a floured napkin and roll until it is as thin as paper2 fold it double1 and cut it into circles one quarter inch in diameter1 using a small vegetable cutter or pastry bag tube4 ,fry them in smoking hot fat1 tossing them in the frying basket so that they will color evenly4 ,they will puff into balls and color in one minute4 ,drain and place them on paper on the hot shelf4 ,sprinkle them on the soup after it is in the tureen1 or better pass them1 as they soften very quickly4 ,,marrow ,,balls ,melt a tablespoonful of marrow and strain it through a cloth1 or fine sieve1 into a bowl2 beat it till creamy1 then add an egg and beat again thoroughly4 ,season with pepper1 salt1 and a little nutmeg4 ,add to this mixture as much soft bread as it will moisten4 ,roll it into small balls and poach in boiling water4 ,place them in the soup just before serving4 ,,sweet ,,potato ,,balls ,mash some cooked sweet potatoes1 season with butter1 salt1 pepper1 and nutmeg1 and a little grated cheese4 ,moisten with beaten egg2 roll into small balls and poach in boiling water4 ,put the balls into the soup the last thing before serving4 ,,green ,,pea ,,timbale ,,for ,,soup ,mix one half cupful of mashed green peas with one tablespoonful of soup stock and three whites of eggs2 season with salt1 pepper1 and a little nutmeg4 ,beat well together and place in a small mold or flat tin4 ,set the mold into hot water and place in slow oven until the mixture is set4 ,when it is firm1 unmold1 cut into small cubes1 and put them in the soup just before serving4 ,,harlequin ,,slices ,cut into small squares some cooked carrots1 turnips1 and string beans4 ,arrange them in timbale cups1 mixing the vegetables together2 fill the cups up with royale mixture4 7,see above47 ,set them into hot water and cook in slow oven until the custard is firm4 ,unmold when cold1 and cut with a sharp knife into slices one eighth of an inch thick4 ,place these in the soup just before serving4 ,,broths ,,chicken ,,broth #a fowl4 #d quarts of cold water4 #a_/b cupful of rice4 ,salt and pepper4 ,clean the fowl carefully2 wash it with a wet cloth2 cut it into pieces and remove the fat4 ,place the joints in a saucepan with a quart of water to each pound of fowl4 ,let it simmer until the meat is tender2 then remove the breast2 after four hours take it off and strain it through a sieve4 ,let the soup stand until the grease rises2 then carefully remove it1 and put the soup again in the saucepan2 add the breast of the chicken1 cut into dice1 and the half cupful of rice2 salt and pepper to taste1 and cook until the rice is tender4 ,,clam ,,broth #ab large hard-shelled clams for #a pint of broth4 ,boil the clams and juice for twenty minutes2 strain and let it stand to settle2 strain it again carefully into a saucepan1 and let it boil up once2 season with butter and pepper--no salt--and serve in cups with whipped cream on top4 ,to open the clams and obtain the juice1 place the clams1 after they have been carefully washed with a brush and clear water1 in a saucepan2 add two tablespoonfuls of hot water2 cover and let them steam until the shells open2 then strain off the liquor4 ,,mutton ,,broth ,the neck or shoulder-pieces may be used for broth4 ,the meat should be cut into pieces and the fat removed4 ,to each pound of meat add one quart of cold water2 simmer for four or five hours2 strain it into an earthen bowl2 when ready to serve1 remove the grease1 and add to each quart of stock one stick of celery1 two tablespoonfuls of rice1 salt and pepper to taste1 and boil until the rice is soft4 ,the water in which a leg of mutton has been boiled will make a good mutton soup1 but is not rich enough for a broth to be served to an invalid4 ,broth ,made ,quickly for ,invalids4 ,broth may be made quickly by chopping lean meat to a fine mince4 ,to a pound of meat add one pint of cold water2 let soak for fifteen minutes2 then let slowly boil for half an hour2 season and strain4 ,,soups ,,bouillon 7#c ,,pints4 ,,time1 #e ,,hours7 #c lbs4 of beef cut from under side of round and chopped to a mince4 #c quarts of cold water4 #a onion4 #a_/b carrot4 #a sprig of parsley4 #b sticks of celery4 #a bay-leaf4 #b cloves4 #f peppercorns4 #a teaspoonful of salt added just before taking the soup off the fire4 ,take three pounds of beef cut from the lower part of round1 remove all the fat1 and chop the meat to a fine mince4 ,place the chopped meat in a saucepan with three quarts of cold water1 and let it stand one hour2 then put it on the fire1 cover1 and let it come slowly to the boiling-point1 taking off any scum that rises4 ,then place it where it will only simmer4 ,after it has simmered for four hours add the vegetables cut into dice1 and the spices1 and let it simmer one hour longer4 ,strain into an earthen bowl and let it cool without covering4 ,this stock will not jelly1 as no bones are boiled with it4 ,when ready to use remove grease1 season1 if necessary1 with pepper and salt1 and put into saucepan with three fourths of a pound of lean meat chopped fine1 and the white of one egg4 ,stir until it boils2 let it boil for fifteen minutes4 ,lay a fine cloth on a sieve and strain through it the bouillon without pressing4 ,it should be perfectly clear and of the color of amber4 ,it can be served in cups4 ,a little sherry may be added1 if liked1 when served at afternoon teas4 ,,consomme#ih-99 #d lbs4 lower part round of beef4 #d lbs4 knuckle of veal4 #b tablespoonfuls of butter4 #f quarts of cold water4 #a large onion4 #a_/b carrot4 #c stalks of celery4 #a tablespoonful of salt4 #b sprigs of parsley4 #ae peppercorns4 #c cloves4 #a inch square of cinnamon4 ,a little thyme4 ,a little marjoram4 ,a little summer savory4 #b bay-leaves4 ,cut the beef into pieces one inch square4 ,remove the veal from the bone1 and cut it also into small pieces4 ,put one tablespoonful of butter into a very clean soup-pot with the pieces of meat1 and stir over a hot fire until the meat is browned1 care being taken that it does not burn2 then add one quart of water1 and let it cook until a glaze has formed on the bottom of the kettle1 which will take about one hour4 ,then add five quarts of cold water and let it come slowly to the boiling-point4 ,set the soup-pot back on the fire and let the soup simmer for six hours4 ,remove the scum from time to time as it rises4 ,one hour before the time for removing the soup add to it the vegetables1 which have been cut fine and browned in one tablespoonful of butter4 ,add also the herbs and spices1 and one tablespoonful of salt4 ,when it has simmered six hours1 strain it through a fine cloth1 laid on a sieve1 into an earthen bowl1 and let it cool without covering4 ,a fowl added to this receipt will give the soup a more delicate flavor4 ,if used it should be put in the pot at the time the five quarts of water are added4 ,the veal-bone may also go in at this time2 but the soup will not be so clear if the bone is used4 ,if a chicken is used it may be removed from the stock when tender and used for other purposes4 ,,footnotes3 #ih-99 ,this receipt gives a perfectly clear brilliant soup after it is clarified4 ,if no bones are used it can be boiled slowly without injury instead of being simmered4 ,the stock will not always jelly4--,m4 ,r4 ,,ox-,,tail ,,soup #b ox-tails4 #a onion4 #a tablespoonful of drippings or of salt pork4 #d quarts of cold water4 #a stick of celery4 #a root of parsley4 #c cloves4 #f peppercorns4 #a tablespoonful of salt4 ,cut the ox-tails into pieces1 separating them at the joints4 ,saute the onion and the ox-tails in the drippings to a delicate brown4 ,put the meat in the soup-pot with four quarts of cold water4 ,let it come to the boiling-point2 add the vegetables and spices1 and simmer for four hours1 then add the salt4 ,strain1 take off the grease4 ,select some of the pieces of ox-tail1 one piece for each portion1 and place them in the tureen with the soup4 ,ox-tails are gelatinous and make a smooth soup4 ,,white ,,stock #a knuckle of veal4 #a fowl4 ,bouquet of herbs4 #a onion4 #b stalks of celery4 #a small turnip cut into dice4 #a small carrot cut into dice4 ,cut the meat from the bone4 ,wash the skin of the fowl 7see page #ahj74 ,allow one quart of cold water to each pound of meat and bone4 ,place all in a kettle4 ,cover and let simmer four or five hours4 ,strain into an earthen bowl1 and let cool uncovered4 ,white stock may be made of veal alone4 ,if a fowl is used1 the breast and second joints may be removed when tender1 and used for other dishes 7croquettes1 souffle1 imperiale1 etc474 ,a part of the veal may also be removed1 and used for veal loaf 7see page #aga74 ,,white ,,soup #a pint of white stock4 #a pint of milk or cream4 #a tablespoonful of butter4 ,salt and pepper to taste4 ,chicken1 veal1 or celery 7cut into small dice71 or rice4 #a tablespoonful of flour4 ,put one pint of milk or cream into a double boiler2 add to it one pint of white stock1 and a white roux made of one tablespoonful of butter and one tablespoonful of flour cooked together1 but not browned4 ,dilute the roux to smoothness with a little of the cold milk before adding it to the soup4 ,let it come to the boiling-point4 ,season to taste1 and strain into the tureen2 then add one tablespoonful or more of chicken breast1 veal1 or celery 7cut into small dice71 or rice4 ,if desired1 two or more of these may be used1 and the yolk of a hard-boiled egg1 pressed through a sieve1 sprinkled over the top4 ,this quantity gives but one quart of soup2 enough to serve to four people4 ,,chicken ,,consomme1 ,,or ,,stock ,place a fowl1 cut into pieces1 in four quarts of cold water2 let come slowly to the boiling-point2 then draw it to the side of range and simmer for three hours4 ,at the end of this time add one slice of onion1 two sticks of celery1 one tablespoonful of salt1 one saltspoonful of pepper1 and simmer one or two hours longer2 strain into earthen bowl1 and let cool without covering4 ,this stock may be cleared the same as beef stock1 and served in cups for luncheon4 ,it may also be mixed with gelatine1 cleared1 and used for aspic1 in ,russian salads1 jellied chicken1 etc4 7see page #cbc74 ,the meat from the breast and second joints may be removed from the stock-pot1 when tender1 and reserved for timbales1 croquettes1 patties1 etc4 ,if this soup is not rich enough1 it can be reduced by opening the lid of the pot1 after it has simmered the required time1 and allowed to boil uncovered until as rich as desired4 ,,plain ,,chicken ,,soup #a fowl4 #d quarts of water4 #a cupful of rice4 #a slice of onion4 #b sticks of celery4 #a sprig of parsley4 ,place the fowl1 cut into pieces1 in a saucepan with four quarts of cold water2 when it comes to the boiling-point1 draw it aside and let it simmer for three hours2 then add one thick slice of onion1 two sticks of celery1 one sprig of parsley1 and one cupful of rice1 and simmer for another hour2 strain and let the soup stand until the grease can be taken off the top4 ,remove the meat1 bones1 and vegetables from the strainer1 and press the rice through the sieve2 stir this into the soup2 season with salt and pepper1 and heat again before serving2 a little cream may also be added4 ,this soup is also good thickened with a little roux or with corn-starch4 ,for the latter1 take two tablespoonfuls of the cold stock2 stir into it one tablespoonful of corn-starch2 then stir it into the soup1 and let cook for ten minutes to take away the raw taste of the starch1 and to make it clear4 ,pieces of the breast cut into dice may also be added4 ,,vegetable ,,soup ,to one quart of common stock add one pint of parboiled mixed vegetables cut into small dice4 ,simmer until the vegetables are tender but not pasty4 ,season with salt1 pepper1 and one teaspoonful of sugar4 ,serve without straining4 ,,tomato ,,puree ,put into a granite-ware saucepan a quart of canned or of fresh tomatoes2 add a pint of water or of stock2--the soup will be better if stock is used2--add also one bay-leaf1 a sprig of parsley1 a stick of celery1 six peppercorns1 and a teaspoonful of sugar2 simmer until the tomato is thoroughly soft4 ,in another saucepan put a tablespoonful of butter2 when it is hot add a sliced onion1 and fry1 but not brown it2 then add a tablespoonful of flour1 and cook1 but not brown the flour4 ,to this roux add enough of the tomato to dilute it1 and then mix it well with the rest of the tomato1 and season with salt4 ,pass the whole through a fine sieve or strainer4 ,heat it again before serving1 and sprinkle over the top small croutons4 ,,split-,,pea ,,or ,,bean ,,soup #a cupful of split peas1 or #a cupful of dried beans4 #a tablespoonful of butter4 #b quarts of water4 #a_/b teaspoonful of sugar4 #a tablespoonful of flour4 ,salt and pepper to taste4 ,let the peas or beans soak over night in three quarts of cold water4 ,put the soaked peas or beans into a saucepan with two quarts of water and a ham-bone1 if you have it1 otherwise it may be omitted4 ,let simmer for four or five hours1 or until the peas or beans are perfectly soft4 7,add more water from time to time1 if necessary47 ,then pass them through a sieve2 add to the pulp enough stock1 or milk1 or water to make a soup of the consistency of cream4 ,put it again into a saucepan on the fire2 season1 and add a roux made of one tablespoonful of butter and one tablespoonful of flour cooked together2 dilute the roux to smoothness with a little of the soup before adding it to the pot4 ,the roux will hold the particles of peas or beans in suspension4 ,without it they are liable to precipitate4 ,an onion may be boiled with the peas or beans if desired4 ,serve croutons on the soup1 or pass them4 ,,black-,,bean ,,soup #b cupfuls of black beans4 ,brown stock4 ,brown roux4 ,bouquet of herbs1 made of a sprig of parsley1 a sprig of thyme1 one clove4 #d peppercorns1 #a onion4 ,egg balls4 ,thin slices of lemon4 ,force-meat balls4 ,white of hard-boiled egg4 #a_/d cupful of sherry or red wine4 ,salt and pepper to taste4 ,soak two cupfuls of black beans over night4 ,put the soaked beans into a saucepan with a bouquet of herbs1 and cover them with cold water4 ,let them boil slowly until tender1 which will take several hours1 adding more water if necessary4 ,when the beans are very soft remove the bouquet1 drain off the water1 and pass the beans through a puree sieve4 ,add to the pulp enough brown stock to make a soup of the consistency of thin cream4 ,place it again on the fire and add a brown roux made of one tablespoonful of butter and one tablespoonful of flour1 cooked together until brown2 dilute it to smoothness before adding and cook it with the soup for five minutes4 ,this will prevent the soup from separating4 ,season with salt and pepper4 ,strain it through a sieve into the tureen2 then add thin slices of lemon1 egg balls1 and force-meat balls1 allowing one of each to each portion of soup2 add also the white of one hard-boiled egg cut into small dice1 and one quarter of a cupful of sherry or red wine4 ,this resembles mock-turtle soup4 ,,calf',s-,,head ,,or ,,mock-,,turtle ,,soup ,make a brown roux by putting in a saucepan one tablespoonful of butter1 let it brown1 add two tablespoonfuls of flour1 and let that brown2 then add1 slowly at first1 one and a half or two quarts of water in which a calf's head has been boiled1 white wine instead of vinegar being used in the boiling 7see boiled calf's head1 page #age74 ,add three or four strained tomatoes and simmer for one half hour4 ,skim off any fat and season with salt and pepper4 ,add some pieces of boiled calf's head cut in pieces one half inch square1 a few egg balls1 two or three tablespoonfuls of sherry1 and a few very thin slices of lemon4 ,,fish ,,stock ,put into the soup-pot a tablespoonful of butter or of drippings4 ,add a tablespoonful each of chopped onion1 carrot1 and turnip4 ,fry them without browning1 then add fish-bones1 head1 and trimmings1 a stalk of celery1 sprigs of parsley and of thyme1 a bay-leaf1 a tomato or a slice of lemon4 ,cover with water1 and simmer them for an hour or more4 ,season with salt and pepper4 ,strain4 ,when this stock is used for soup1 make a roux of one tablespoonful each of butter and flour1 add a cupful of milk or cream1 and add this amount to each pint of the fish stock4 ,,oyster ,,soup ,scald a quart1 or twenty-five1 oysters in their own liquor4 ,as soon as they are plump1 or the gills curl1 remove them 7oysters harden if boiled74 ,add to the liquor a cupful of water4 ,make a roux of one tablespoonful each of butter and flour1 dilute it with the liquor1 and when it is smooth add a cupful of scalded milk or cream4 ,season with pepper1 salt1 if necessary1 and a dash of cayenne or paprica2 then add the oysters1 and as soon as they are heated serve at once4 ,in oyster houses finely shredded cabbage with a ,french dressing is served with oyster soup1 and is a good accompaniment when served for luncheon4 ,oysters should be carefully examined1 and the liquor passed through a fine sieve before being cooked1 in order to remove any pieces of shell there may be in them4 ,,clam ,,soup ,remove the clams from the shells as soon as they have opened 7see clam broth1 page #ie74 ,put them in a warm place1 until the juice is prepared4 ,add a cupful of hot milk to a quart of juice1 and thicken it with a roux made of one tablespoonful of butter and one tablespoonful of flour2 then add the clams1 chopped fine1 season1 and bring the soup again to the boiling-point and serve4 ,two spoonfuls of whipped cream served on each plateful of soup is an improvement to the dish4 ,,cream ,,soups ,,onion ,,soup 7,a ,,very ,,simple ,,soup ,,quickly ,,made7 ,slice two or three large onions2 fry them in a tablespoonful of butter or drippings until they are soft and red1 then add three tablespoonfuls of flour1 and stir until it is a little cooked4 ,to this add slowly a pint of boiling water1 stirring all the time1 so it will be smooth4 ,boil and mash three good-sized potatoes4 ,add to them slowly a quart of scalded milk1 stirring well so it will be smooth4 ,add the potato and milk mixture to the onion mixture4 ,season with salt and pepper4 ,let it get very hot1 and pass it through a strainer into the tureen4 ,sprinkle over the top a little parsley chopped very fine1 and a few croutons4 ,the soup will be better if stock is used instead of water to dilute the onion mixture4 ,,potato ,,soup ,boil and mash three or four potatoes4 ,make a roux of one tablespoonful of butter1 one half tablespoonful of flour1 and one teaspoonful of chopped onion1 letting the onion cook in the butter a few minutes before adding the flour4 ,when the roux is cooked add to it a pint of milk1 making a thin1 white sauce4 ,add this to the mashed potato and pass the whole through a strainer4 ,return it to the fire for a few minutes to heat and blend it4 ,season it with salt and pepper4 ,sprinkle on the soup1 when it is in the tureen1 a teaspoonful of chopped parsley and a few croutons4 ,if the soup is too thick1 add a little more milk or a little hot water4 ,the roux prevents the milk and potato from separating1 and also gives it smoothness4 ,the soup can be made richer by using more milk1 and stirring into it1 just before serving1 the beaten yolks of two eggs4 ,this soup may also be made of sweet potatoes4 ,,tomato ,,bisque #a_/b can of tomatoes4 #a quart of milk4 #b tablespoonfuls of butter4 #a tablespoonful of corn-starch4 #a teaspoonful of salt4 #a_/b saltspoonful of pepper4 #a saltspoonful of soda4 ,dash of cayenne4 ,stew the tomatoes until very soft2 then pass them through a fine sieve or strainer4 ,put the strained tomatoes into a granite-ware saucepan1 and add one saltspoonful of soda2 when it has ceased foaming add the butter1 a small piece at a time2 if put in all at once it will show an oily line2 add salt1 pepper1 and cayenne4 ,put the milk into a double boiler1 and stir into it a tablespoonful of corn-starch which has been mixed with a little of the cold milk1 to make it smooth2 let it scald for ten minutes1 or long enough to cook the corn-starch2 then pour the milk into the tomatoes1 beat well together1 and serve at once4 ,it is better not to add the milk to the tomatoes until just ready to serve1 for fear of curdling4 ,,cream ,,of ,,asparagus2 ,,cream ,,of ,,green ,,peas2 ,,cream ,,of ,,string ,,beans2 ,,cream ,,or ,,spinach2 ,,cream ,,of ,,corn2 ,,cream ,,of ,,celery ,these soups are very delicate1 and are much esteemed4 ,they are all made in the same way4 ,the vegetable is boiled until soft1 and is then pressed through a sieve4 ,a pint of the vegetable pulp is diluted with a quart of stock 7the stock may be veal1 beef1 or chicken broth74 ,it is thickened with a roux made of one tablespoonful of butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour1 seasoned with pepper and salt1 and is then strained again1 so it will be perfectly smooth4 ,it is replaced on the fire1 a cupful or a half cupful of cream added1 and the whole beaten with an egg-whip to make it light1 and is served at once very hot4 ,the ,french thicken cream soups with egg-yolks4 ,in this case two yolks would be used for the above quantity4 ,the beaten yolks are diluted with the cream1 and cooked only just long enough to set the egg4 ,it would curdle if allowed to boil4 ,butter is needed for seasoning1 and where eggs are used it should be added in small bits before the cream and eggs4 ,where roux is used for thickening1 there is enough butter in the roux4 ,,cream ,,of ,,clams #be large clams4 #b tablespoonfuls of butter4 #b tablespoonfuls of flour4 #a-a_/b pints of milk4 ,small slice of onion4 ,dash of nutmeg4 ,salt and pepper4 #a_/b pint of cream4 ,wash the clam shells thoroughly with a brush and clear water4 ,put them into a pot on the fire with one half cup of boiling water2 cover and let steam until the shells open2 take out the clams and let the liquor settle2 then strain it carefully1 and set aside2 remove the clams from the shells2 chop them1 pound them in a mortar1 and press as much of them as possible through a puree sieve4 ,put the milk into a double boiler with the slice of onion4 ,put the butter into a frying-pan1 and when it bubbles1 stir into it the flour1 and let it cook a few minutes1 but not brown2 add enough of the milk slowly to make the roux liquid2 then add it to the milk in the double boiler1 first having removed the slice of onion2 add a dash of nutmeg and of pepper1 then the cream2 when ready to serve1 stir in the clam pulp and one pint of the clam liquor2 taste to see if salt will be needed4 ,after the clams are added to the milk1 leave it on the fire only long enough to get well heated2 if boiled1 the milk will curdle4 ,beat a moment with an egg-whisk to make foamy4 ,if the mixture is too thick1 it may be diluted with milk or cream4 ,this is good for luncheon1 served in small cups1 the top covered with a spoonful of whipped cream4 ,,cream ,,of ,,oysters ,scald a quart of oysters in their own liquor4 ,remove the oysters2 chop and pound them in a mortar1 then press as much of them as possible through a puree sieve4 ,make a roux of one tablespoonful of butter and a heaping tablespoonful of flour4 ,dilute it with the oyster juice4 ,add the oyster pulp2 season it with pepper1 salt1 and paprica1 and keep it hot until ready to serve4 ,just before serving add a half pint of whipped cream1 and beat it well into the soup4#ajh-99 ,,footnotes3 #ajh-99 ,any soup made of milk will be greatly improved by adding a cupful of hot cream just before serving4 ,a little fish stock improves clam or oyster cream soup4 ,,soup ,a ,,la ,,reine ,put a chicken into three quarts of water4 ,simmer it slowly for two hours1 or until the chicken is very tender4 ,a half hour before removing it add a half pound of rice and a bouquet containing one root of parsley1 one sprig of thyme1 a thin slice of onion1 and a stick of celery4 ,boil it until the rice is soft1 then strain through a colander4 ,let the broth cool and remove the grease4 ,remove the white meat from the bones of the chicken1 put it with the rice in a mortar1 and pound both to a pulp4 ,pass the pulp through a puree sieve1 moistening it with a little stock to make it pass through easier4 ,when ready to serve1 add the puree to the stock1 season with salt and pepper1 and heat it thoroughly without boiling4 ,just before sending it to the table add a half pint of hot cream4 ,if desired the soup can be thickened with a little roux1 or with fifteen blanched almonds chopped and pounded to a paste1 using a little cream to prevent the almonds from oiling4 ,,bisque ,,of ,,lobster ,put into a mortar equal parts of boiled lobster meat and boiled rice2 pound them to a pulp2 then add enough broth to dilute it2 season with salt and paprica4 ,pass it through a sieve4 ,heat it without boiling1 and then add enough ,bechamel sauce to make it the consistency of cream soup2 lastly1 add to each quart of soup a quarter of a pound of lobster butter1 adding a little at a time1 and stirring until the butter is melted4 ,instead of the lobster butter1 plain butter may be used1 and the coral of the lobster1 dried and pounded to a powder1 stirred in at the same time4 ,serve croutons with the bisque4 ,,lobster ,,butter ,after the meat is removed from the lobster1 take all the rest 7except the lady1 woolly gills and intestine71 including the shell1 and put it into a mortar with twice its weight of butter4 ,pound it to a pulp2 then place it in a saucepan on the fire1 and cook until the butter is melted4 ,strain it through a cloth4 ,beat the strained butter until it is cold4 ,if not a deep enough color1 add a very little cochineal4 ,,chowders ,,potato ,,chowder #f good-sized potatoes4 #a_/d lb4 salt pork4 #a onion4 #a tablespoonful butter4 #a tablespoonful flour4 #a pint milk or cream4 #a pint water4 #a tablesp'ful chopped parsley4 #a teaspoonful salt4 #a_/b teaspoonful pepper4 ,cut the potatoes into dice1 cut the pork into small pieces1 and put it with the sliced onion into a frying pan1 and fry until a light brown4 ,put into a kettle a layer of potatoes1 then a layer of onions and pork1 and sprinkle with salt1 pepper1 and chopped parsley4 ,repeat this until all the potatoes1 pork1 onions1 and parsley are in4 ,pour over them the grease from the pan in which the pork and onions were fried4 ,add one pint of water1 cover1 and let simmer twenty minutes4 ,scald the milk in a double boiler1 and add it to a roux made of the flour and butter4 ,add this to the pot when the potatoes are tender1 and stir carefully together1 so as not to break the potatoes4 ,taste to see if the seasoning is right4 ,serve very hot4 ,this is a good dish for luncheon1 or for supper in the country4 ,,fish ,,chowder #c lbs4 fresh fish4 #c large potatoes4 #a large onion4 #a_/b lb4 salt pork4 #a pint milk4 #c ship crackers4 ,pepper and salt4 ,cut the fish1 the potatoes1 and the onion into slices4 ,cut the pork into half-inch dice4 ,put the pork and the onion into a pan and saute them a light brown4 ,place in alternate layers in a large saucepan first potatoes1 then fish1 then pork and onion2 dust with salt and pepper1 and continue in this order until all the materials are used4 ,cover the whole with boiling water and let the mixture simmer for twenty minutes4 ,scald a pint of milk or of cream1 take it off the fire and add one and a half tablespoonfuls of butter and three broken ship crackers or the same quantity of water biscuits4 ,arrange the fish mixture in a mound on a dish1 cover it with the softened crackers1 and pour over the whole the hot milk4 ,,clam ,,chowder #ej clams4 #a medium-sized onion4 #f oz4 salt pork4 #c large potatoes4 #a teaspoonful salt4 #a_/b teaspoonful pepper4 #a tablespoonful butter4 #b tablespoonfuls flour4 #a pint of milk or cream4 #a saltspoonful of mace4 #a saltspoonful of thyme4 #c ship crackers4 ,put the clams1 with their own liquor1 into a saucepan on the fire4 ,when they have boiled three minutes1 remove the clams and return the liquor to the fire4 ,cut the pork into slices4 ,chop an onion and fry it with the pork until both are browned4 ,then stir in two tablespoonfuls of flour4 ,when the flour is cooked1 add slowly the clam liquor1 a dash of mace and thyme1 and salt1 if necessary2 then add three parboiled potatoes cut into dice1 and cook until the potatoes are tender4 ,when ready to serve add a pint of milk or cream1 the clams cut into pieces1 and a quarter of a pound of broken ship crackers or any hard water cracker4 ,,chapter ,,iii ,,fish ,sidenote3 ,cooking4 ,sidenote3 ,freshness4 ,sidenote3 ,dressing4 ,it is essential that fish should be perfectly fresh1 thoroughly cleaned1 and carefully cooked4 ,if underdone it is not eatable2 if cooked too long it loses flavor and becomes dry4 ,the sooner it is cooked after being taken from the water1 the better4 ,when fresh1 the eyes are bright1 the gills red1 the flesh firm and odorless4 ,ordinarily the fishman removes the scales and draws the fish before delivering it2 but if not1 this should be done at once1 and the fish thoroughly washed1 but not allowed to soak in water1 then wiped dry and put into the refrigerator1 on the ice1 the skin side down1 but not in the same compartment with butter1 milk1 or other foods which absorb flavors4 ,sidenote3 ,keeping ,frozen ,fish4 ,fish that are frozen should be laid in cold water until thawed1 but not allowed to remain in the water after they become flexible4 ,sidenote3 ,trimming4 ,the head and tail should be left on1 and the fins trimmed1 of any fish which is to be served whole4 ,sidenote3 ,the bones4 ,when the fillets only are to be used1 the head and bones may be used for a fish soup4 ,sidenote3 ,to skin1 bone1 and remove the fillets4 ,to separate a fish1 cut through the skin all around1 then1 beginning at the head1 loosen the skin and strip it down4 ,by putting salt on the hand a firmer grasp may be obtained1 and with the aid of a knife the skin can be removed without tearing the flesh4 ,after the skin is taken off from both sides1 slip the knife under the flesh1 and keeping it close to the bone1 remove the fillets4 ,the fillets may then be cut into two or more pieces according to the size of the fish1 care being used to have them of uniform size and shape4 ,fillets taken from small fish and from flounders or other flat fish are sometimes rolled and held until cooked with small skewers4 ,wooden toothpicks serve this purpose very well4 ,fish containing many bones are not suitable for fillets4 ,,to ,,carve ,,fish ,run a knife down the back1 cutting through the skin4 ,remove the fins4 ,then cut into even pieces on one side4 ,when these pieces are served1 remove the bone1 and cut the under side in the same way4 ,,to ,,boil ,,fish ,add one teaspoonful of salt and one tablespoonful of vinegar to every two quarts of water1 and use sufficient water to entirely cover the fish4 ,the salt and vinegar serve to whiten and harden1 as well as to season the meat4 ,a bay-leaf and soup vegetables in the water improve the flavor of cod and some other fish4 ,the fish must not be put into cold water1 as that extracts the flavor2 nor into boiling water1 as that breaks the skin and gives it a ragged appearance4 ,lower the fish gradually into warm water1 let it come quickly to the boiling point1 then draw to the side of the range1 where it will simmer only1 until done4 ,sidenote3 ,time4 ,allow ten minutes to the pound after the water has begun to simmer4 ,sidenote3 ,the ,kettle4 ,a fish kettle1 with strainer1 is requisite for boiling a fish whole4 ,a plate held in a piece of cheese cloth may be used for smaller pieces4 ,when the fish is done the strainer should be lifted out carefully and placed across the kettle until the fish is well drained4 ,sidenote3 ,to boil a fish whole4 ,a boiled as well as a baked fish is more attractive served upright as if swimming4 ,to hold it in this position1 place a carrot inside the fish to give it roundness and stability1 and prop it on both sides with pieces of carrot or turnip4 ,the head must be wrapped with cord or a strip of cheese cloth to keep it from losing shape1 and the whole held in position by strings going around the strainer 7see illustration74 ,if a fish is too large for the kettle1 it may be cut into halves or thirds1 and when cooked laid carefully together on the dish and garnishing placed over the cuts4 ,illustration3 ,,fish ,,prepared ,,to ,,boil ,,in ,,upright ,,position4 7,,see ,,page #aad47 ,sidenote3 ,serving4 ,boiled fish is served on a napkin1 and garnished with parsley4 ,this may be so arranged as to conceal any defects4 ,sidenote3 ,garnishes4 ,slices of lemon1 slices of hard-boiled eggs1 chopped pickle1 or capers may also be used for garnishing4 ,boiled potato balls may be served on the same dish4 ,sidenote3 ,sauces4 ,boiled fish needs a rich white sauce4 ,drawn butter1 egg1 ,hollandaise1 or ,bechamel sauces are generally used4 ,illustration3 ,,slices ,,of ,,codfish ,,boiled ,,or ,,sauted ,,and ,,rested ,,against ,a ,,wedge-,,shaped ,,bread ,,support ,,and ,,garnished ,,with ,,boiled ,,or ,,fried ,,potato ,,balls1 ,,water-,,cress1 ,,and ,,lemon4 ,,fish ,,court ,,bouillon ,court bouillon is used for boiling fresh-water fish or others which are without much flavor4 ,it may be prepared beforehand1 and used several times1 or the vegetables may be added at the time the fish is boiled4 ,fry in #a tablespoonful of butter1 #a chopped carrot1 #a chopped onion1 #a stalk of celery4 ,then add #b quarts of hot water1 #a cup of vinegar or wine1 #c peppercorns1 #c cloves1 #a bay-leaf1 #a teaspoonful of salt4 ,,baked ,,fish ,after the fish is carefully washed and dried1 put in the stuffing1 and sew up the opening with a trussing needle2 then cut three gashes in each side of the fish1 and lay a lardoon of salt pork in each cut4 ,next1 run a trussing needle1 holding a double white cotton cord1 through the head1 the middle of the body1 and the tail4 ,draw the fish into the shape of the letter ,s1 and tie the cord firmly4 ,in order to cook evenly1 it is better to have the fish upright1 and by trussing as directed it will hold that position4 ,dredge the fish with salt1 pepper1 and flour1 and lay it on slices of larding pork in a baking pan4 ,place also over the back slices of pork4 ,allow fifteen minutes to each pound1 and baste frequently4 ,the pork should supply sufficient liquid for basting2 if not1 add a very little water4 ,the fish can be more easily removed if a baking sheet is used in the bottom of the pan4 7,see illustration facing page #aah47 ,serve with a brown sauce4 ,garnish with lemon and parsley4 ,haddock1 bluefish1 shad1 and bass are good for baking4 ,illustration3 ,,fish ,,prepared ,,to ,,bake4 7,,see ,,page #aae47 ,,stuffings ,,for ,,baked ,,fish ,put a large tablespoonful of butter into a saucepan4 ,when melted stir into it #a cupful of cracker or dry bread crumbs1 #a teaspoonful of chopped onion1 #a teaspoonful of chopped capers1 #a_/d teaspoonful salt1 #a_/d teaspoonful pepper1 #a teaspoonful of chopped parsley4 ,if a moist stuffing is preferred1 add one quarter cupful of milk1 stock or water4 ,,bread ,,stuffing ,fry a tablespoonful of chopped onion in a tablespoonful of butter4 ,add a cupful or more of stale bread1 which has been soaked in hot water1 then pressed dry4 ,a tablespoonful each of chopped parsley1 suet1 and celery1 one quarter teaspoonful each of salt and pepper1 and a dash of powdered thyme 7if liked74 ,when it is well mixed1 remove from the fire and add an egg4 ,,to ,,broil ,,fish ,fish to be broiled are split down the back4 ,after being washed and well dried1 they should be rubbed with oil or butter1 or the skin floured1 to keep from sticking4 ,the broiler should be made hot and greased with a piece of salt pork before the fish is laid on4 ,the hot wires will sear the lines which should always show on broiled dishes4 ,the fire must be clear and hot for small fish1 more moderate for large ones1 so the outside may not be burned before the inside is cooked4 ,when there is danger of this1 the broiler may be laid on a pan in the oven to complete the cooking4 ,the broiler should be turned as often as the cook counts ten1 and as the skin burns easily1 it must be carefully watched4 ,when done1 the wires should be carefully raised from both sides so as not to break the meat1 and the fish turned on to a hot dish and spread with butter1 salt1 and pepper1 or better1 a maitre d'hotel sauce4 ,this sauce makes a more evenly distributed mixture4 ,a wreath of water-cresses laid around the fish makes a good garnish1 and is an acceptable accompaniment to any broiled dish4 ,lemon is also used for garnish and flavor4 ,shad1 bluefish1 and mackerel are most frequently cooked in this way4 ,,to ,,saute ,,fish ,small or pan fish1 and fish cut into slices1 are often sauted4 ,after the fish is washed and dried1 dredge it with salt and pepper1 and roll in flour1 then dip in egg and roll in bread crumbs1 cracker dust1 or in corn-meal4 ,put into a frying-pan a few pieces of salt pork1 and after sufficient grease has tried out1 lay in the fish2 or one tablespoonful of lard and one tablespoonful of butter may be used instead of the fat pork4 ,butter burns1 and should not be used alone4 ,the grease must be very hot1 and only enough of it to cover the bottom of the pan one eighth of an inch deep4 ,turn the fish with a broad knife or pancake turner1 and with care to not break the meat4 ,when cooked an amber color it is ready to turn4 ,slices of halibut should be marinated 7see page #gi7 before being coated with flour4 ,lay the fish or slices overlapping each other on a hot dish4 ,serve with quarters of lemon1 and garnish with parsley4 7,see illustrations facing pages #aad and #abd47 ,,to ,,fry ,,fish ,fish to be fried are first well washed and dried1 then dredged with salt1 pepper1 and flour1 then dipped in egg1 and rolled in bread or cracker crumbs4 ,the fish should be completely incased in the egg and crumbs1 leaving no opening for the grease to enter4 ,the same rule applies to frying fish as to other articles 7see page #gb74 ,they must have entire immersion1 and the fat smoking hot4 ,,to ,,fry ,,smelts ,smelts1 after being washed1 dried1 and sprinkled with salt and pepper1 are dipped in egg1 then rolled in bread or cracker crumbs4 ,the head and tail pinned together with a small skewer1 or wooden tooth-pick 7to be removed after they are fried71 makes them into rings1 and is a pretty way of serving them either by themselves or for garnishing other fish dishes4 ,cook only as many as will cover the bottom of the frying-basket at one time 7see rules for frying1 page #gb74 ,dress the smelts on a folded napkin1 and serve with ,mayonnaise or with ,tartare sauce4 ,illustration3 ,,smelts ,,fried ,,in ,,rings4 7,,see ,,page #aag47 ,,fried ,,smelts ,,on ,,skewers ,use medium sized smelts1 clean carefully1 and wipe them dry4 ,dredge them with salt and pepper2 dip them in egg and roll them in crumbs4 ,string three or four on each skewer1 the skewer passing through the eyes4 ,place them in a frying-basket1 a few at a time1 and immerse in very hot fat4 ,prepare at a time only as many as will go in the frying-basket4 ,the time given to rolling them is only as long as required for the fat to regain the right degree of heat4 ,dress on a napkin and serve with ,mayonnaise1 ,tartare sauce1 or quarters of lemon4 ,,broiled ,,smelts ,split the smelts down the back and remove the bone4 ,lay them on a hot broiler1 which has been rubbed with suet1 to prevent sticking4 ,broil over hot coals for two minutes on each side4 ,put into a dish some ,bechamel sauce1 and lay the broiled fish on the sauce1 or they may be spread with maitre d'hotel sauce4 ,serve at once while very hot4 ,,fried ,,fillets ,,of ,,fish ,remove fillets as directed on page #aab4 ,dip them in salted milk1 roll in flour1 then in egg and fresh bread crumbs4 ,fry as soon as prepared in hot fat4 ,fillets may also be cooked by sauteing4 ,arrange the fillets on a napkin or hot dish1 overlapping each other4 ,serve with ,bearnaise1 ,mayonnaise or ,tartare sauce4 ,,whitebait ,wash the whitebait with great care1 and dry well by rubbing them in a napkin4 ,roll them in flour1 using enough to entirely cover them4 ,toss them on a sieve to shake off the loose flour4 ,place them in a fine wire basket1 and immerse in smoking hot fat for one minute1 or just long enough to give them a light amber color4 ,the fish are so small1 it takes but a moment to cook them1 and there is danger of burning them by leaving them in the fat too long4 ,they should be crisp and dry4 ,only enough to make one layer on the bottom of the basket should be fried at once4 ,too many will cool the fat1 and also will stick together4 ,the fat must be brought to the right degree of heat before putting in the second basketful4 ,they should be floured only just before going into the fat4 ,the flour becomes damp if it remains on the fish for any time1 and they will then neither take color nor become crisp4 ,turn them on to a paper1 sprinkle with salt1 and keep them in a warm oven until all are cooked4 ,have a hot dish with a folded napkin on it standing on the warming shelf4 ,place the whitebait between the folds of the napkin1 and serve immediately4 ,they cool rapidly1 and should not be cooked until just in time to serve4 ,they are easily prepared1 and very nice when crisp and hot1 but will not be right unless care is given to the small details4 ,serve with quarters of lemon4 ,illustration3 ,,whitebait4 7,,see ,,page #aah47 ,,boiled ,,halibut ,,steaks ,lay two chicken halibut steaks into a shallow stew pan1 sufficiently large to allow them to lie side by side4 ,cover them with court bouillon or with hot water1 and add a slice of carrot1 onion1 piece of celery1 bay-leaf1 four cloves1 six peppercorns1 and juice of half a lemon4 ,let simmer until done4 ,or they may be put into a baking pan1 with a little water1 covered with another pan or greased paper1 and steamed in the oven until cooked4 ,lift out the slices with a skimmer and broad knife1 and with care not to break them2 lay them on a hot dish1 one a little overlapping the other4 ,garnish with boiled potato balls1 and serve with egg or with ,hollandaise sauce4 7,see illustration facing page #abd47 ,,halibut--,,turkish ,,style 7,,receipt ,,given ,,at ,,one ,,of ,,mrs4 ,,rorer',s ,,lectures7 ,place on the bottom of a baking pan two or three slices of onion1 then a cutlet of halibut1 and put a tablespoonful of butter cut into small bits over the top of the fish4 ,cut three skinned tomatoes into quarters1 slice a sweet green pepper into ribbons1 and put the tomatoes and pepper on the fish4 ,put the pan on the shelf of the oven to cook first the vegetables1 but do not let it remain there long enough to discolor or change their shape2 then remove it to the bottom of the oven1 baste it well1 and finish the cooking4 ,when done place it carefully on a hot dish1 and pour over it the juice from the pan4 ,the fish should retain its whiteness1 and the vegetables their color1 giving a very pretty as well as delicious dish4 ,,scalloped ,,fish #b pounds halibut or any white fish1 boiled with #a slice onion1 #a stalk celery1 #a sprig parsley1 #f peppercorns1 #d cloves1 #a bay-leaf1 ,juice of one-half a lemon1 #a cupful white sauce1 ,mashed potato4 ,boil two pounds of fish in court bouillon until tender enough to flake4 ,make a white sauce of one tablespoonful butter1 one tablespoonful flour1 one cupful of milk1 salt1 pepper1 and cayenne4 7,see white sauce1 page #bgh47 ,boil four medium-sized potatoes1 mash them1 and season with one half teaspoonful of salt1 one quarter teaspoonful of pepper1 and a little cream or milk2 beat them until light1 then add the whites of four eggs beaten stiff4 ,fill a baking dish one half full of the flaked fish1 pour over it the white sauce1 and cover the top with potato1 leaving the potato rough and irregular4 ,place in the oven for fifteen minutes1 or until browned4 ,cream may be substituted for the white sauce1 and enough used to moisten well the fish4 ,shells or individual cups may be used instead of a baking dish4 ,,scalloped ,,fish ,,au ,,gratin ,make a ,bechamel sauce 7see page #bgi74 ,take some seasoned mashed potato1 and mix with it one beaten egg4 ,make with the potato a border around a flat dish4 ,in the center of the ring of potato spread a layer of sauce1 over this a layer of flaked cod fish1 then another layer of sauce and fish1 cover the top with sauce1 sprinkle it with bread crumbs and grated cheese 7parmesan or dairy71 and a few pieces of butter4 ,bake in a hot oven until browned1 and serve in the same dish4 ,the potato border may be made ornamental by pressing the potato through a pastry bag with tube1 the same as is used for potato roses 7see page #bjb74 ,the potato will not hold its form unless egg is mixed with it4 ,white sauce may be used instead of ,bechamel1 but is not quite as good4 ,one layer of fish in large flakes1 covered with sauce1 crumbs1 and cheese1 and browned with a border of boiled potato balls laid around regularly1 is also a good way of serving it when a small quantity is needed4 ,,fish ,,chops #a pound or #a pint of fish4 #a teaspoonful of salt4 #a_/b teaspoonful of pepper4 #a_/b teaspoonful of onion juice4 #a cupful of milk or cream4 #a tablespoonful of butter4 #b rounded tablespoonfuls flour4 ,yolks of two eggs4 #a tablespoonful of chopped parsley4 ,put in a double boiler one cupful of cream or milk2 when scalded1 stir into it the butter and flour rubbed together1 and cook for five minutes4 ,remove from the fire and mix in1 stirring all the time1 the beaten yolks of two eggs1 put again on the fire1 and stir until thickened4 ,take one pound or pint of shredded boiled fish1 sprinkle over it one teaspoonful of salt1 one half teaspoonful of pepper1 one tablespoonful of chopped parsley1 ten drops of lemon juice4 ,mix the seasoned fish with the white sauce1 then spread it on a dish and set aside for several hours to cool and stiffen4 ,it will not be difficult to mold if it stands long enough4 ,take a tablespoonful of the mixture in the hands1 and mold into the form of chops1 round at one end and pointed at the other2 roll the chops in crumbs1 then in beaten egg1 then in coarse bread crumbs grated from the loaf 7see croquettes1 page #bic74 ,after the chops are molded let them stand for a time to stiffen before frying4 ,place them in a basket four at a time1 and immerse in hot fat until an amber color4 ,place on a paper to dry4 ,when all are done pierce a small hole in the pointed end with a fork1 and insert a sprig of parsley4 ,dress on a napkin1 and serve with tomato1 ,bearnaise1 or ,hollandaise sauce4 ,any kind of fish may be used for the chops4 7,see illustration facing page #acj47 ,illustration3 ,,fish ,,chops4 7,,see ,,page #aba47 ,illustration3 ,,fish ,,chops4 ,,fillets ,,baked ,,with ,,custard ,,or ,,tomatoes ,remove the fillets from any white fish1 dredge them with salt and pepper1 and lay them in a baking pan1 one on top of the other4 ,beat two eggs1 and add to them #b cupfuls of milk1 #a saltspoonful of salt1 #a saltspoonful of pepper1 #a saltspoonful of nutmeg1 #c soda crackers rolled to powder4 ,put two tablespoonfuls of butter into the pan with the fish1 and set it in the oven4 ,when the butter is melted1 add one half the milk mixture1 and baste the fish with it frequently4 ,when the custard becomes set add a little more of the milk1 and continue the operation until the fish is cooked4 ,lift the fish carefully from the pan with a pancake turner and broad knife4 ,place it on a hot dish1 and pile on the top the flakes of custard4 ,instead of the milk mixture tomato may be used if preferred4 ,to one half can of tomato add #a teaspoonful of salt1 #a_/b teaspoonful of thyme1 #a_/d teaspoonful of pepper1 #a slice of onion1 #a bay-leaf1 #c cloves4 ,the whole of the tomato mixture may be put in the pan as soon as the butter is melted4 ,,cold ,,fish ,any kind of fish which is good boiled may be served cold1 and in summer is often more acceptable in this way4 ,bass1 trout1 halibut1 salmon1 and bluefish are recommended4 ,serve with cold ,bearnaise1 ,mayonnaise1 or ,tartare sauce4 ,garnish with lettuce leaves or water-cresses1 and hard-boiled eggs4 ,,fish ,,pudding #a pound or pint boiled halibut4 #a_/b cupful of cream or milk4 #a-a_/b tablespoonfuls of butter4 #a_/b tablespoonful of flour4 #a-a_/b teaspoonfuls salt4 #a_/d teaspoonful pepper4 #a_/b teaspoonful onion juice4 #b eggs4 ,pound the fish in a mortar until it is thoroughly mashed1 then rub it through a puree sieve2 season the fish pulp with salt1 pepper1 and onion juice4 ,put the butter into a saucepan when melted1 add the flour1 and cook for a few minutes1 then add slowly the cream or milk1 stirring constantly until well scalded2 then add the fish pulp1 take from the fire1 add the beaten eggs1 and mix thoroughly4 ,butter well a border or ring mold holding a pint or little more2 put in the mixture1 pressing it well against the sides to remove any air bubbles4 ,cover the mold with a greased paper1 and set in a pan of warm water covering one half the mold4 ,place in moderate oven for thirty minutes1 and do not let the water boil4 ,place the form of fish on a hot dish1 fill the center with boiled potato balls 7see page #bjc71 pour over the potato balls some ,bechamel or some white sauce1 sprinkle chopped parsley over the top4 ,serve with the fish a generous amount of ,bechamel or of white sauce4 ,this is a very good dish4 ,,fish ,,timbale ,cut one pound of very fresh white uncooked fish into small pieces1 put it in a mortar1 and pound until the fiber is well separated from the meat1 then press it through a puree sieve4 ,to every cupful of fish pulp add one tablespoonful of bread crumbs soaked in milk or cream until soft and then pressed through a sieve2 add also the beaten yolk of one egg1 ten drops of onion juice1 one teaspoonful of salt1 one quarter teaspoonful of pepper1 and a dash of nutmeg4 ,beat all well together and for some time1 to make it light2 then for every cupful of pulp beat in lightly the whites of two eggs whipped very stiff4 ,put the mixture into a well buttered mold1 filling it only three quarters full1 set it into a pan of warm water1 covering three quarters of the mold1 cover the mold with a greased paper1 and place in a moderate oven for twenty minutes4 ,do not let the water boil4 ,turn the timbale on to a hot dish1 and pour around1 but not over it1 a ,bechamel or a tomato sauce4 ,this is a very delicate fish dish1 and is particularly good when made of shad4 ,,fish ,,dish ,,for ,a ,,pink ,,luncheon ,cut halibut or any firm white fish into cutlets three quarters of an inch thick1 two inches wide1 and three inches long4 ,dredge with salt1 pepper1 and paprica4 ,lay them in a pan so they do not touch1 cover with salted water1 cover the pan1 and let them steam in the oven for ten or fifteen minutes until cooked1 but remove while they are still firm enough to retain shape4 ,pound the trimmings of the fish in a mortar1 pass it through a sieve1 and to one half cupful of the fish pulp add a thickening made as follows3 put a dessert-spoonful of butter in a saucepan on the fire2 when it is melted add a dessert-spoonful of flour1 cook for a minute without coloring1 add three tablespoonfuls of cream or milk1 a quarter teaspoonful of salt and a dash of pepper1 remove it from the fire4 ,stir in the half cupful of fish pulp and one beaten egg2 color it a delicate pink with a few drops of cochineal1 beat the whole until light1 and spread the cutlets of fish with this mixture one quarter inch thick2 smooth it carefully on top and sides with a wet knife4 ,place the pieces in a pan1 cover1 set it into another pan containing hot water1 and let steam in the oven for ten or fifteen minutes4 ,range the pieces standing on end around a socle of rice or hominy 7see page #cbf72 mask the top of the socle with prawns1 or with parsley1 or with water cresses1 and a few pink roses or pink carnations4 ,serve with ,hollandaise sauce1 colored green or pink4 ,the pink cutlets may be garnished with capers1 or with a thin slice of pickle cut into fancy shape with cutter4 ,illustration3 ,,fish ,,steaks ,,sauted ,,or ,,boiled1 ,,garnished ,,with ,,potato ,,balls1 ,,water-,,cress1 ,,and ,,lemon4 ,illustration3 ,,creamed ,,fish ,,in ,,shells4 ,,rolled ,,fillets ,,of ,,flounder ,select flounders of uniform size1 and large enough to make two strips about two and a half inches wide on each side1 each fish giving four fillets4 ,marinate them1 or else dredge with salt and pepper1 and dip into butter4 ,roll them1 beginning at the broad end1 and fasten with a wooden tooth-pick4 ,egg and bread-crumb them1 and fry in hot fat for seven minutes4 ,fry only four at a time1 that the fat may not be too much cooled when they go in4 ,remove the skewer carefully1 and serve with remoulade1 ,tartare1 or tomato sauce4 ,illustration3 ,,turbans1 ,,or ,,rolled ,,fillets ,,of ,,fish4 7,,see ,,page #abe47 ,,shad ,shad may be broiled1 and spread with maitre d'hotel sauce2 stuffed and baked1 and served with brown sauce2 or it may be boiled and served with ,hollandaise1 ,bechamel1 or egg sauce4 ,,planked ,,shad ,have a hardwood board one and a half or two inches thick4 ,split the shad as for broiling1 place it on the board with the skin side down1 and fasten with a few tacks2 place the board before the fire1 and roast until done2 rub it from time to time with a little butter4 ,the plank should be well-seasoned1 and be heated before placing the shad on it1 or it will impart the flavor of the wood to the fish4 ,a substitute for this mode of cooking is to put into a baking-pan a tablespoonful of drippings2 when very hot lay in the shad with the skin side up1 place it under the coals1 and when the skin is puffed and blistered it is done4 ,turn it onto a hot dish1 dredge with salt and pepper1 cover with bits of butter1 and serve with quarters of lemon4 ,,broiled ,,shad ,,roe ,wash and dry the roe with care not to break the skin1 place it on a well greased broiler1 and rub it with butter once or twice during the time of broiling2 cook to a nice brown1 place it on a hot dish1 and cover with a maitre d'hotel sauce4 ,garnish the dish with a wreath of water cresses4 ,this makes a good fish course for luncheon4 ,shad roe may also be cooked in a saute-pan1 using one half butter and one half drippings or lard4 ,,shad ,,roe ,,croquettes1 ,,no4 #a ,put the roes from two fishes into boiling salted water1 and simmer for fifteen minutes2 when cool1 remove the skin1 and mash them with a fork1 so the little eggs will be separated but not broken3 scald one cupful of cream or milk1 and stir into it one tablespoonful of butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour rubbed together4 ,take the paste on a spoon1 and stir it in the cream until dissolved4 ,remove from the fire1 and add the beaten yolks of two eggs and the seasoning--one tablespoonful of chopped parsley1 juice of one half a lemon1 dash of nutmeg1 salt1 pepper1 and cayenne to taste4 ,place again on the fire1 and stir until the sauce is thickened2 then add the mashed shad roe1 pour the mixture on a dish1 and set away to cool for several hours4 ,form it into small croquettes1 egg and bread-crumb them1 using crumbs grated from the loaf2 fry in hot fat until an amber color4 ,dress on a folded napkin1 garnish with parsley1 and serve with ,mayonnaise1 ,tartare1 or ,bearnaise sauce4 ,,shad ,,roe ,,croquettes1 ,,no4 #b ,put shad roes into salted boiling water1 and simmer for fifteen minutes2 remove with care not to break the skin1 and place in cold water2 when cold1 dry them1 and with a sharp knife cut them into pieces two inches thick2 dredge them with salt1 pepper1 and lemon juice1 dip them in beaten egg1 roll in grated white bread crumbs1 place in a wire basket1 and fry in hot fat4 ,dress on a napkin1 and serve with ,tartare or ,bearnaise sauce4 ,,salt ,,mackerel ,soak the mackerel for twelve hours or more1 with the skin side up1 and change the water several times4 ,simmer it for fifteen or twenty minutes2 and1 if convenient1 have in the water one teaspoonful of vinegar1 one bay-leaf1 one slice of onion1 and a sprig of parsley4 ,when tender1 place carefully on a hot dish1 and pour over it a cream sauce2 or the soaked fish may be broiled1 and spread with butter1 pepper1 lemon juice1 and chopped parsley4 ,,creamed ,,mackerel ,soak the mackerel for twenty-four hours1 then lay it in a shallow stew-pan1 and cover with milk or cream4 ,simmer for fifteen minutes4 ,remove the fish carefully1 and place it on a hot dish4 ,add to the milk or cream in the stew-pan one tablespoonful each of butter and flour rubbed together4 ,stir until a little thickened1 and the flour cooked2 add a little pepper and chopped parsley1 and pour the sauce over the fish4 ,,salt ,,codfish ,soak the codfish several hours1 changing the water three times4 ,simmer it for #bj minutes or until it is tender4 ,take out carefully all the bones4 ,make a white sauce of one tablespoonful each of butter and flour1 and one cupful of milk2 add to it1 off the fire1 two beaten yolks4 ,return to the fire1 and stir in one cupful of shredded codfish4 ,taste to see if it needs seasoning with salt and pepper4 ,serve it on slices of toast1 or place it in center of dish1 and surround it with triangular croutons4 ,,club ,,house ,,fish ,,balls ,boil the quantity of codfish that will be needed1 changing the water once1 that it may not be too salt4 ,while the fish is hot1 pick it very fine1 so that it is feathery2 it cannot be done fine enough with a fork1 and should be picked by hand4 ,at the same time have hot boiled potatoes ready4 ,mash them thoroughly1 and make them creamy with milk and a good-sized lump of butter4 ,to three cupfuls of the mashed potatoes take one and one half cupfuls of fish4 ,the fish should not be packed down4 ,beat one egg lightly1 and stir into the other ingredients2 season to taste4 ,beat the mixture well together and until light1 then mold it into small balls1 handling lightly1 and before frying1 roll the balls in flour4 ,fry them in smoking hot fat until a golden color4#abh-99 ,,footnotes3 #abh-99 ,this mixture can be spread on a pan1 then marked into squares1 and baked in the oven4 ,this method makes it a more wholesome dish for those who are unable to eat fried preparations4--,m4 ,r4 ,,broiled ,,sardines ,,on ,,toast ,drain sardines from the can4 ,lay them on a broiler over hot coals for two minutes on each side4 ,have ready hot toast cut the right size to hold three of the fish4 ,arrange them neatly on the toast1 and moisten with a little heated oil from the can4 ,,fresh ,,fish ,,balls ,to one cupful of flaked boiled fish add a cream sauce made of one tablespoonful of butter1 one tablespoonful of flour1 and one half cupful of milk4 ,let the sauce be very stiff1 so it leaves the sides of the pan2 mix it well with the fish1 and when hot add two beaten eggs1 pepper1 and salt4 ,drop the mixture1 which should be like thick batter1 from a spoon into very hot fat4 ,it will puff1 and be very light4 ,,salmon ,put salmon into hot water to preserve its color1 and simmer in acidulated water or in court bouillon1 as is the rule for all fish4 ,the middle cuts are preferable where a small quantity only is needed4 ,the head piece makes a pretty cut1 but is not profitable to buy1 as the head adds materially to the weight4 ,where a large fish is to be used for a supper or cold dish1 it may be cut in halves or sections 7see page #aad7 if too large for the fish kettle4 ,cold salmon can be elaborately garnished with aspic1 colored mayonnaise1 shrimps1 gherkins1 capers1 etc4 ,,canned ,,salmon ,the canned salmon is very good1 and makes a palatable emergency dish4 ,it can be prepared quickly1 as the fish is already cooked4 ,it may be broiled1 and spread with maitre d'hotel butter1 or it can be served on toast with cream dressing2 or a white sauce can be made1 and the fish put in it to heat2 or the fish may be heated in water1 and served as cutlets with ,bearnaise sauce4 ,,salmon ,,cutlets ,prepare salmon cutlets the same as boiled halibut steaks 7page #aai71 or cut them in half heart or chop shapes1 roll them in egg and bread crumbs1 and fry in hot fat4 ,arrange them in a circle overlapping one another1 and serve with ,bearnaise1 ,hollandaise or ,tartare sauce4 ,,broiled ,,slices ,,of ,,salmon ,marinate the slices for one hour4 ,broil on both sides2 baste with butter1 so that they will not brown4 ,place them on a hot dish1 and sprinkle with salt1 pepper1 lemon juice1 and chopped parsley4 ,serve with them a ,bearnaise sauce or quarters of lemon4 ,,slices ,,of ,,salmon ,,with ,,mayonnaise ,simmer two slices of salmon in court bouillon until done2 remove carefully so as not to break them4 ,when perfectly cold cover one side of them with a smooth layer of mayonnaise made with jelly 7see page #bij71 and colored a delicate green4 ,arrange a row of sliced gherkins or of capers around the edge4 ,place a wedge-shaped socle of bread in the middle of a dish1 and fasten it to the dish with white of egg1 so that it will be firm2 rest the slices against it2 conceal the side of socle with garnish of fresh lettuce leaves4 ,place a bunch of parsley or water-cress or if convenient a bouquet of nasturtium blossoms1 in the hollow center of the fish4 ,use hard-boiled eggs cut in halves for further garnishing4 ,this makes a handsome supper dish for card or theater party4 ,it should be kept in a cool place until ready to serve4 ,,fillets ,,of ,,salmon ,,for ,,green ,,luncheon ,cut salmon into pieces three quarters of an inch thick and two and a half inches square1 trim them carefully1 and flatten with heavy knife so they will be uniform4 ,lay them in a baking-pan so they do not touch1 cover them with salted water1 and simmer them in the oven for about twenty minutes1 or until well cooked1 but still firm4 ,take them out carefully1 skin and dry them1 and when cold marinate them4 ,make a jelly mayonnaise 7see page #bij71 using a little tarragon vinegar2 color it green2 cover the fillets with the green mayonnaise while it is soft enough to become perfectly smooth1 and set them away in a cool1 dry place4 ,when ready to serve place the fillets on the top of a socle made of hominy1 and ornamented on the sides with green beans and balls of carrot1 or green peas 7see illustration page #cbb74 ,arrange a macedoine of vegetables 7see page #baf7 around the base of the socle4 ,serve with it a mayonnaise dressing4 ,one pound of salmon will cut into nine cutlets4 ,,croustade ,,of ,,shrimps ,make a sauce the same as for lobster filling 7see page #adj71 and substitute potted shrimp meat for the lobster4 ,serve in croustades of rice4 ,this is a good luncheon dish1 and easily prepared4 ,,shell-,,fish1 ,,lobsters1 ,,crabs ,,oysters ,oysters are out of season during the months of ,may1 ,june1 ,july1 and ,august4 ,the rule is to use oysters only in the months that have the letter r in the name4 ,sidenote3 ,how to serve on half-shell4 ,when served raw1 the small varieties are the best4 ,they are left on the deep half of the shell4 ,six are allowed for each person4 ,they should be arranged regularly on the plate around a little ice broken fine1 the valve side toward the center of plate1 and in the center of the circle a quarter of a lemon4 ,a few sprigs of parsley or cress under the lemon makes a pretty garnish4 ,black and red pepper are served with raw oysters1 and also very thin slices of buttered brown bread4 ,sidenote3 ,precaution4 ,oysters served raw should be very fresh4 ,it is therefore not desirable to use them in this way when one lives inland4 ,to prevent the chance of any bits of shell getting into oyster dishes1 they should be washed2 each oyster being taken on a fork and dipped into water4 ,as they are largely composed of water1 this will not injure their flavor4 ,the juice should be strained through a coarse sieve4 ,cracker crumbs are better than bread crumbs for mixing with oysters4 ,sidenote3 ,cooking4 ,oysters require very little cooking4 ,they are put over the fire in their own liquor1 and removed the moment they are plump or the gills are curled4 ,more cooking than this makes them tough4 ,,fried ,,oysters ,drain the oysters4 ,roll each one first in cracker crumbs1 then in egg mixed with a little milk1 and seasoned with pepper and salt1 then again in the cracker crumbs4 ,use first the crumbs1 as the egg will not otherwise adhere well to the oyster4 ,place them in a wire basket1 and immerse in smoking hot fat4 ,as soon as they assume a light-amber color drain1 and serve immediately4 ,oysters should not be fried until the moment of serving1 for they are quickly cooked and it is essential to have them hot4 ,pickles1 chow-chow1 horse-radish1 cold-slaw1 or celery salad are served with fried oysters1 and may be used as a garnish or be served separately4 ,,oysters ,a ,,la ,,villeroi ,prepare a ,villeroi sauce 7see page #bhj74 ,heat the oysters in their own liquor until plump1 then remove and wipe them dry4 ,place them on a pan turned bottom side up1 leaving a space around each one4 ,with a spoon cover each oyster with the thick sauce1 and set them away for several hours to cool and harden2 then trim them to good shape4 ,take one at a time on a broad knife or spatula1 and1 holding it over a dish containing beaten egg1 coat it well with egg2 then cover it with fresh bread crumbs and draw the coating around the whole oyster4 ,place the rolled oysters in a wire basket1 and immerse in hot fat until an amber color4 ,dress them on a folded napkin1 and serve with a ,bechamel sauce1 or with the same sauce with which they are coated1 diluted with stock or oyster juice4 ,a little chopped truffle and mushrooms improve the sauce4 ,,broiled ,,oysters ,dry the oysters4 ,heat the broiler well1 and grease it by rubbing it with a slice of salt pork or with suet4 ,dip the oysters into melted butter1 or into oil1 and lay them on the broiler4 ,broil them on both sides for a few minutes over bright coals4 ,have ready some toast cut into uniform shapes and moistened with oyster juice4 ,on each crouton place three or four oysters1 and pour over them a little melted maitre d'hotel sauce4 ,,panned ,,oysters ,heat a baking-pan very hot4 ,put into it a tablespoonful of butter2 then the oysters1 which have been well drained4 ,let them cook in hot oven until browned4 ,have ready some toast cut into even pieces2 soften them with some liquor from the pan2 place three or four oysters on each piece1 and pour over them the liquor from the pan1 which should be reduced if too watery4 ,sprinkle with a little parsley chopped very fine4 ,,roasted ,,oysters ,wash the shells well with a brush and cold water4 ,place them in a pan with the deep half of shell down4 ,put them into a hot oven1 and bake until the shell opens4 ,remove the top shell carefully so as not to lose the liquor4 ,arrange them on plates1 and on each oyster place a piece of butter and a little pepper and salt4 ,if roasted too long the oysters will be tough4 ,,oysters ,a ,,la ,,poulette #be oysters4 #a cupful of oyster juice4 #a cupful of milk or cream4 ,yolks of #c eggs4 #b tablespoonfuls of butter4 #d tablespoonfuls of flour4 #a scant teaspoonful of salt4 #a saltspoonful of pepper4 ,dash of cayenne pepper4 ,dash of nutmeg4 ,scald the oysters in their liquor until plump4 ,put into a saucepan two tablespoonfuls of butter2 when melted stir in carefully the flour1 and cook1 but not brown4 ,stir in slowly the oyster juice2 when perfectly smooth add the milk or cream and the seasoning4 ,take it off the fire1 and when a little cooled stir in the beaten yolks4 ,place again on the fire1 and stir until thickened2 then pour it over the oysters on a hot dish4 ,place a border of triangular-shaped croutons around the dish1 and serve at once4 ,do not add the cream and eggs to the sauce until time to serve1 so that there may be no delay1 as this dish is not good unless hot1 and if kept standing the sauce will curdle4 ,the sauce should be of the consistency of cream4 ,,scalloped ,,oysters ,place in a shallow baking-dish a layer of oysters2 over this spread a layer of bread or cracker crumbs2 sprinkle it with salt1 pepper1 and bits of butter2 alternate the layers until the dish is full1 having crumbs on top1 well dotted with bits of butter4 ,pour over the whole enough oyster juice to moisten it4 ,bake in a hot oven fifteen or twenty minutes1 or until browned2 serve it in the same dish in which it is baked4 ,individual scallop-cups or shells may also be used1 enough for one person being placed in each cup4 ,,oyster ,,filling ,,for ,,patties ,for one dozen oysters1 #a tablespoonful of butter4 #a tablespoonful of flour4 #a cupful of milk or cream4 ,yolks of #b eggs4 ,dash of cayenne4 ,dash of mace4 ,scald the oysters in their liquor2 drain and cut each one into four pieces with a silver knife4 ,put the butter into a saucepan1 and when melted add the flour2 cook1 but not brown2 then add the milk or cream1 and stir until smooth2 add the seasoning1 and remove from the fire4 ,when a little cooled add the beaten yolks1 stirring vigorously2 place again on the fire1 and stir until thickened2 then add the pieces of oysters4 ,the filling should be soft and creamy1 and the patty cases should be heated before the filling is put in4 ,this mixture is improved by using an equal quantity of oysters and mushrooms1 either fresh or canned1 and should be highly seasoned4 ,it may be served in bread-boxes 7see page #hb71 or in crusts prepared by removing the crumb from rolls1 then browning them in the oven4 ,minced oysters and clams in equal parts1 with some of their juice used in making the sauce1 also make a good filling4 ,the same mixture may be made into croquettes1 in which case two tablespoonfuls of flour instead of one are used1 also a few more oysters1 and the sauce is allowed to become thicker 7see croquettes1 page #bib74 ,,clams ,clams are served raw on the half shell during the months that oysters are out of season4 ,little ,neck clams are best for this purpose1 and the smaller they are the better4 ,the manner of serving them is the same as for raw oysters4 ,as many as ten or twelve are allowed for each person4 ,,to ,,open ,,clams ,to remove clams from the shells when wanted for cooking1 wash the shells well with a brush and clear water4 ,place them in a saucepan or pot with a very little hot water2 cover the pot1 and let them steam until the shells open2 strain the liquor through a fine cloth1 or let it cool and settle2 then pour it off carefully in order to free it from sand the shells may have contained4 ,,creamed ,,clams ,scald the clams in their own liquor4 ,if opened by steaming1 they are sufficiently cooked4 ,chop them into fine dice and measure4 ,to each cupful of chopped clams add one cupful of thick cream sauce4 ,for one cupful of sauce put into a saucepan one tablespoonful of butter2 when melted1 stir in one tablespoonful of flour2 cook1 but not brown it2 then add slowly one half cupful of clam liquor and one half cupful of milk or cream2 season with pepper1 and salt if necessary4 ,let it cook until a smooth1 thick cream1 stirring all the time2 add the clams only just before serving4 ,pour the mixture over small pieces of toast laid on the bottom of the dish4 ,,roasted ,,clams ,clams are roasted in the same manner as oysters 7see page #acc74 ,,clam ,,fritters ,mix chopped clams with fritter batter 7see page #dbf71 using clam liquor instead of water in making the batter1 and have the batter quite thick4 ,drop the mixture from a tablespoon into hot fat1 and fry until an amber color4 ,,scallops ,scallops are dried with a napkin1 then rolled in cracker dust1 then in egg and crumbs1 and immersed in hot fat for a minute1 or just long enough to take a light color4 ,mix salt and pepper with the crumbs4 ,,lobsters ,lobsters are in season from ,march to ,november4 ,they are in the market all the year1 but during the off months they are light and stringy4 ,their size increases with their age2 therefore a small1 heavy lobster is better than a large one4 ,they are unwholesome if boiled after they are dead4 ,if bought already boiled1 their freshness may be judged by the tail1 which should be curled and springy4 ,if it is not curled up1 or will not spring back when straightened1 the lobster was dead when boiled1 and should be rejected4 ,lobsters may be killed just before being boiled by running a pointed knife into the back through the joint between the body and tail shells4 ,,to ,,boil ,a ,,lobster ,have in a kettle enough water to entirely cover the lobster4 ,before it becomes very hot take the lobster by the back and put it into the warm water head first4 ,this smothers instead of scalding it to death1 and seems the most merciful way of killing it4 ,a lobster treated in this way does not change position1 and seems to have been killed instantly4 ,cover the pot4 ,when it boils1 add one tablespoonful of salt1 and boil for thirty minutes4 ,it will be tough and stringy if cooked longer4 ,,to ,,open ,a ,,lobster ,after the lobster is cold1 break apart the tail and body2 twist off the claws2 remove the body from the shell2 shake out the green1 fatty substance and the coral1 and save them to mix with the meat4 ,remove the stomach1 which lies directly under the head1 and is called the lady2 remove also the woolly gills2 break open the body1 and take out the small pieces of meat which lie under the gills2 break open the claws and remove the meat4 ,with scissors or a knife cut the bony membrane on the inside of the tail2 remove the meat in one piece1 and open it to remove the intestine1 which runs the entire length of the tail-piece4 ,the intestine is sometimes without color4 ,,to ,,broil ,a ,,lobster ,with a sharp knife cut quickly down the back1 following a line which runs down the middle of the shell4 ,the fishman will ordinarily do this1 and it is as quick and merciful as any way of killing4 ,the lobster may be killed1 if preferred1 by running a knife into the back as directed above1 and then opened with a heavy knife and mallet4 ,remove the stomach1 or lady1 and the intestine4 ,lay the two pieces on the broiler1 with the shell part down1 and broil over a moderate fire for thirty minutes or longer4 ,spread a little butter over it when half done1 to keep it moist2 spread butter1 salt1 and pepper over it when done2 open the claws with a nut-cracker or mallet1 and serve immediately4 ,,to ,,bake ,a ,,lobster ,split the lobster open in the same way as for broiling4 ,remove the stomach1 or lady1 and the intestine2 lay the two pieces in a baking-pan2 spread over the top of each salt1 pepper and butter1 and sprinkle with bread crumbs2 bake about forty minutes in a hot oven2 during the baking baste it twice by pouring over it a little melted butter4 ,baked and broiled lobsters are considered a great delicacy4 ,,lobster ,,farci #b cupfuls of boiled lobster meat4 #a cupful of milk or cream4 #b tablespoonfuls of butter4 #a tablespoonful of flour4 ,yolks of #c hard-boiled eggs4 #b tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs4 #a tablespoonful of salt4 #a tablespoonful chopped parsley4 #a_/d nutmeg4 ,dash of cayenne pepper or of paprica4 ,put into a saucepan one tablespoonful of butter2 when it bubbles add one tablespoonful of flour2 cook1 but not brown2 add one cupful of milk slowly1 and stir until smooth2 then remove it from the fire2 add the salt1 the pepper1 the parsley1 the yolks mashed fine1 and lastly the lobster meat cut into pieces one half inch square4 7,use a silver knife to cut lobster47 ,be careful1 in mixing1 not to break the meat4 ,have the shell from which the meat was taken carefully washed and dried1 leaving on the head2 cut out neatly the inside shell of the tail-piece1 and fit the two parts of the shell together4 ,as the shell contracts in cooking1 it is well to trim off a little from the sides of the body shell in order to leave an opening wide enough to admit a spoon in serving4 ,put the meat mixture into the shell4 ,cover the top with the bread crumbs1 which have been moistened with one tablespoonful of butter4 ,place it in the oven for a few minutes to brown4 ,if the meat of two lobsters is used1 the shells of both may be used1 or the two tail-shells may be fitted into one body shell1 which will then hold all the meat4 ,illustration3 ,,lobster ,,farci4 ,,lobster ,,chops ,the mixture for chops is prepared in the same manner as for farci1 except that the meat is cut a little finer4 ,after it is mixed with the white sauce1 spread it on a platter to cool2 when sufficiently cold1 mold into the form of chops4 ,then dip in egg1 roll in fresh bread crumbs 7see croquettes1 page #bic71 and immerse in hot fat until fried to an amber color4 ,the chops will mold better if the mixture is left for some time to harden4 ,the chops may also stand for some hours before being cooked4 ,tin forms are made for molding chops1 but they are easily shaped without them if the mixture has stood long enough to stiffen4 ,after they are fried1 make a little opening in the pointed end1 and insert a small claw4 ,serve the chops on a napkin1 and garnish with lemon and parsley4 ,illustration3 ,,lobster ,,chops1 ,,served ,,standing4 ,illustration3 ,,lobster ,,chops4 ,,lobster ,a ,,la ,,newburg ,one and a half cupfuls of boiled lobster meat cut into pieces one inch square4 #a tablespoonful of butter4 #c_/d cup of ,madeira or sherry4 #a cupful of cream4 ,yolk of two eggs4 #a truffle chopped4 #a_/d teaspoonful of salt4 ,dash of cayenne or paprica4 ,put the butter in a saucepan2 when it has melted add the lobster meat1 the chopped truffle1 the salt1 and the pepper2 cover and let simmer for five minutes2 then add the wine1 and cook three minutes longer4 ,have ready two yolks and one cupful of cream well beaten together2 add this to the lobster1 shake the saucepan until the mixture is thickened1 and serve immediately4 ,this dish will not keep without curdling1 and should not be put together until just in time to serve4 ,the lobster may be prepared and kept hot4 ,the rest of the cooking1 from the time the wine goes in1 requires but five minutes1 so the time can be easily calculated4 ,if the mixture is stirred the meat will be broken2 shaking the pan mixes it sufficiently4 ,this is a very good dish1 and easily prepared2 but it will not be right unless served as soon as it is cooked4 ,the quantity given is enough for six people4 ,crab meat may be used in the same way4 ,,lobster ,,stew ,put into a saucepan one tablespoonful of butter and one teaspoonful of chopped onion4 ,before it takes color add one tablespoonful of flour1 and cook1 but not brown4 ,then add slowly one cupful of water in which the lobster was boiled1 one cupful of milk1 and one cupful of good stock4 ,add the lobster meat1 and when it has become thoroughly hot remove the meat and place it on the dish on which it is to be served1 arranging it in the shape of a lobster as far as possible4 ,cut the tail-piece into thick slices1 without changing its position4 ,season the sauce with salt1 pepper and cayenne1 and pour it over the meat4 ,place around the edges triangular croutons1 and garnish with head1 small claws1 and tail4 ,,lobster ,,filling ,,for ,,patties #a cupful of lobster meat cut into dice4 #a tablespoonful of butter4 #a tablespoonful of flour4 #a cupful of milk4 #a teaspoonful of salt4 #a_/d teaspoonful of pepper4 ,dash of cayenne4 #b yolks4 ,put the butter into a saucepan2 when melted add the flour1 and cook a few minutes1 but not brown2 add slowly the milk or cream1 and stir until perfectly smooth4 ,to this white sauce add the two yolks beaten1 and stir them in off the fire2 then add the meat1 season1 and replace on the fire until sufficiently thickened4 ,mix carefully with a wooden spoon1 so as not to break the meat4 ,the filling should be very creamy4 ,the salpicon given below may be used for filling1 if preferred4 ,,salpicon ,,of ,,lobster #a tablespoonful of lobster meat cut into dice4 #f mushrooms4 #a truffle4 #a tablespoonful of butter4 #a teaspoonful of flour4 #a_/d cupful of white stock4 #a_/d cupful of cream4 ,salt and cayenne4 ,put one level tablespoonful of butter into a saucepan1 and when melted add one level tablespoonful of flour2 cook1 but not brown2 add slowly the stock1 and stir until perfectly smooth2 then add the cream2 after it begins to thicken add the lobster meat1 the chopped truffle1 and the mushrooms cut into dice4 ,season highly with salt and cayenne or paprica4 ,let simmer for five minutes4 ,this must be creamy1 but not too soft4 ,it can be served as filling for patties or potato croustades1 or may be served in paper boxes4 ,this amount makes about a cupful of salpicon1 which is enough for six patties4 ,,crabs ,crabs are in season during the months of ,may1 ,june1 ,july1 and ,august4 ,they may be had at other times1 but are then light and stringy4 ,soft-shell crabs are best in ,july and ,august4 ,like lobsters1 crabs must be bought while alive1 and boiled in the same way4 ,put them head first into hot water4 ,after five minutes add one tablespoonful of salt1 and boil for thirty minutes4 ,when cold remove the shells1 the stomach1 which is just under the head1 the gills1 and the intestine4 ,take out the meat carefully4 ,,deviled ,,crabs #ab crabs4 #a cupful of cream or milk4 #a-a_/b tablespoonfuls of butter4 #a tablespoonful of flour4 #a tablespoonful chopped parsley4 #a teaspoonful salt4 #a_/b teaspoonful paprica or dash of cayenne4 #a_/b teaspoonful of lemon juice4 ,yolks of #d hard-boiled eggs4 ,to obtain enough meat to fill nine shells1 use twelve crabs4 ,after they are boiled remove the meat with care1 breaking it as little as possible4 ,put into a double boiler the cream2 when it is scalded add to it the flour and butter1 which have been rubbed together2 stir until smooth and thickened2 then add the mashed yolks1 the seasoning1 and the crab meat4 ,mix well together1 and taste to see if more seasoning is needed4 ,deviled crabs need to be highly seasoned4 ,a little mustard may be used1 if desired4 ,have the shells carefully washed and dried1 and fill them with the mixture1 rounding it well on top1 and pressing it close to the edges of the shells1 so that in frying none of the fat may enter4 ,smooth the top1 and let stand until cold4 ,beat one egg with one tablespoonful of water1 and1 holding a shell over this1 baste it with the egg1 letting it run over the whole top1 including the shell2 then sprinkle with white bread crumbs4 ,put two at a time into a frying-basket1 and immerse in very hot fat4 ,it will take but a minute to color them4 ,they may be browned in the oven1 if preferred1 in which case the egging is omitted1 and a few pieces of butter are placed on top of the crumbs4 ,,stuffed ,,crabs ,,with ,,mushrooms ,meat of #f crabs4 ,mushrooms cut into dice the same quantity as of the crab meat4 #a cupful of cream or milk4 #a slice of onion4 #a tablespoonful of butter4 #a tablespoonful of flour4 #a teaspoonful of salt4 #a_/b teaspoonful of paprica1 or dash of cayenne4 #a_/b teaspoonful of lemon juice4 ,yolks of #d hard-boiled eggs4 ,put into a saucepan one tablespoonful of butter1 and one slice of onion chopped fine2 before it becomes brown1 add one tablespoonful of flour2 cook1 but not brown2 and add slowly one cupful of milk or cream4 ,stir until smooth and thickened2 then add the mashed yolks1 the seasoning1 the crab meat1 and the chopped mushrooms4 ,this mixture should not be very soft4 ,fill the shells with it1 and finish the same as deviled crabs4 ,,soft-,,shell ,,crabs ,wash the crabs carefully2 lift up the flap1 and remove the sand-bag 7stomach71 gills1 and intestine2 dry them well1 and dredge with salt and pepper4 ,roll in flour1 and saute them in butter4 ,have a generous amount of butter in the frying-pan1 and saute them on both sides2 when done place them on a hot dish4 ,to the butter in the frying-pan add a little lemon juice4 ,strain this over the crabs1 and sprinkle them with parsley chopped very fine4 ,soft-shell crabs may also be fried1 in which case they are first dipped in milk1 then covered with fine bread-crumbs1 and immersed in hot fat4 ,they may also be broiled over a slow fire1 and when done covered with maitre d'hotel sauce4 ,the preferable way of cooking them is by the method first given4 ,,oyster-,,crabs ,after they are carefully washed and dried1 dip them in milk1 then roll them in flour1 and fry them for one minute in hot fat4 ,serve them on a hot napkin with quarters of lemon1 or they may be served in fontage cups1 or in paper boxes1 or in shells4 7,see also oyster-crabs1 page #caj47 ,,crabs ,,st4 ,,laurent #a cupful of boiled crab meat 7#f crabs74 #b tablespoonfuls grated ,parmesan cheese4 #b tablespoonfuls white wine4 #a tablespoonful of butter4 #a tablespoonful of flour4 #a_/b cupful stock4 #a_/b cupful cream or milk4 #a_/b teaspoonful salt4 #a_/d teaspoonful pepper4 ,dash of cayenne4 ,put into a saucepan one tablespoonful of butter2 when melted add the flour2 cook1 but not brown2 add slowly the stock1 and stir until perfectly smooth2 then add the cream1 and when thickened1 add the salt and pepper1 then the crab meat and the cheese2 simmer for a few minutes1 and add the wine2 spread this mixture over pieces of buttered toast cut in squares or circles2 sprinkle with grated ,parmesan cheese1 and place on each piece a small bit of butter2 set in the oven for three minutes2 serve very hot on a napkin garnished with parsley4 ,this dish may be prepared in a chafing-dish1 in which case the mixture must be placed on the toast and served directly from the chafing-dish4 ,boiled halibut may be substituted for the crab meat4 ,,crab ,,stew #a_/b dozen crabs4 #a quart milk4 ,yolks of #d eggs boiled hard4 #a_/b lemon4 #a nutmeg4 #b tablespoonfuls butter4 #a tablespoonful flour4 #a dessert spoonful mustard4 #a_/b teaspoonful salt4 #a_/d teaspoonful red pepper4 ,mash the hard-boiled yolks fine1 and rub into them the butter1 flour and mustard4 ,put the milk into a double boiler2 when it is scalded stir in the mixture of egg1 etc42 season1 and just before serving stir in the crab meat1 and add one cupful of sherry4 ,place in bottom of a deep dish a few thin slices of lemon and turn the stew over them4 ,,chapter ,,iv ,,meats ,sidenote3 ,slow cooking4 ,long1 slow cooking breaks down the fiber of meat1 and so makes it more tender4 ,whatever method of cooking is employed1 this fact should be remembered4 ,many of the tough pieces are the most nutritious ones1 and can by slow cooking be made as acceptable as the more expensive cuts4 ,sidenote3 ,juices4 ,in order to shut in the juices1 meat should at first be subjected to a high degree of heat for a short time4 ,a crust or case will then be formed on the outside by the coagulation of the albumen1 after which the heat should be lowered1 and the cooking proceed slowly4 ,the same rule holds for baking1 where the oven must be very hot for the first few minutes only2 for boiling1 where the water must be boiling and covered for a time1 and then placed where it will simmer only2 for broiling1 where the meat must be placed close to the coals at first1 then held farther away4 ,tough meats are better boiled1 because a lower degree of heat can be maintained and slower cooking insured4 ,sidenote3 ,degree of cooking4 ,dark meats should be served underdone or red2 the white meats thoroughly cooked1 but not dried4 ,sidenote3 ,dry meats4 ,dry meats are improved by being larded4 ,sidenote3 ,cleaning4 ,clean meat by wiping it with a wet cloth1 but do not put it in water4 ,sidenote3 ,seasoning4 ,salt and pepper draw out the juices2 therefore do not put them on meat before cooking1 or until after the meat is seared1 unless the meat is to be covered at once with egg and crumbs1 or with flour4 ,do not pierce the meat with a fork while cooking1 as it makes an outlet for the juices4 ,if necessary to turn it1 use two spoons4 ,,to ,,roast ,,beef ,time for cooking rib roast rare eight to ten minutes per pound2 time for cooking rolled roast rare1 ten to twelve minutes per pound4 ,to roast beef on a spit before the fire is unquestionably the best method of cooking it2 but as few kitchens are equipped for roasting meats1 baking them in the oven is generally practised1 and has come to be called roasting4 ,beef should be well streaked with fat1 and have a bright-red color4 ,place the meat to be baked on a rack which will raise it a little above the bottom of the pan4 ,dredge the whole1 top and sides1 with flour4 ,place in a corner of the pan a half teaspoonful of salt and a quarter teaspoonful of pepper4 ,do not let them touch the raw meat1 as they draw out the juices4 ,put into the pan also two tablespoonfuls of drippings4 ,place it in a very hot oven for fifteen or twenty minutes1 or until the meat is browned2 then shut off the drafts and lower the temperature of the oven1 and cook slowly until done2 baste frequently2 do not put water in the pan1 as it makes steam1 and prevents browning4 ,a roast has a better appearance if the ribs are not too long4 ,they may be cut off and reserved for the soup pot1 or broken and doubled under4 ,serve it standing on the ribs1 and cut the slices in line with the ribs4 ,for a rolled roast1 remove the bones1 roll it1 and tie securely into good shape2 when cooked1 cut the cords and run through a fancy skewer holding at the head a slice of lemon or piece of carrot cut into ornamental shape4 ,this piece of beef stands on the dish like a cylinder1 and should be cut across horizontally4 ,if the beef is cooked as directed it will have one quarter of an inch of seared meat2 the rest will be of a uniform red color all through4 ,if cooked in too hot an oven the center will be raw1 while an inch or two of the outside will be much overdone1 hard1 and tasteless4 7,see illustration facing page #aeb47 ,illustration3 ,,rolled ,,rib ,,roast ,,of ,,beef ,,garnished ,,with ,,potatoes ,,roasted ,,in ,,same ,,dish ,,with ,,the ,,beef4 ,,fancy ,,skewer ,,garnished ,,with ,,slices ,,of ,,turnip ,,and ,,carrot1 ,,run ,,into ,,the ,,side ,,to ,,hold ,,it ,,together4 7,,see ,,page #adf47 ,,yorkshire ,,pudding ,put two cupfuls of flour into a bowl1 and mix in one half a teaspoonful of salt4 ,beat up three eggs1 and stir them into the flour2 then add two cupfuls of milk4 ,stir until the mixture is smooth1 then turn it into a pan containing a little of the drippings from the roast beef4 ,let the batter be only one inch deep in the pan4 ,bake thirty to forty minutes4 ,cut the pudding in squares1 and place it around the roast beef4 ,,round ,,of ,,beef ,ten to twelve minutes per pound4 ,the cut from the upper side of the round is a good roasting piece4 ,it should be cooked very slowly after it is browned in order to make it tender4 ,the under side of the round should be cooked a la mode1 or braised4 ,,braised ,,beef ,take one half cupful of salt pork1 one half cupful each of carrot1 turnip1 onion1 and celery1 all cut into dice4 ,mix them together and spread them on a baking pan1 reserving one half cupful for the top of the meat4 ,on the bed of vegetables place a piece of beef cut from the upper or under side of the round1 weighing five or six pounds4 ,dredge it with flour4 ,place it in hot oven to brown for twenty to twenty-five minutes4 ,then add two cupfuls of stock or water2 a bouquet of herbs1 consisting of parsley1 six peppercorns1 three cloves1 one bay-leaf2 spread the one half cupful of vegetables over the meat2 add a half teaspoonful of salt to the pan1 cover it closely with another pan1 reduce the heat of the oven1 and cook very slowly for four or five hours4 ,double pans are made which are especially good for braising1 where the steam should be confined as much as possible1 and the basting is done automatically4 ,these pans should not be used for baking meats4 ,if very close fitting pans are not used1 the water must be renewed when necessary1 and basting done frequently4 ,the success of this dish depends upon slow cooking4 ,strain the sauce from the pan1 season with salt and pepper2 pour a little of the sauce over the meat2 serve the rest in a sauce-boat4 ,it is very like a ,spanish sauce4 ,the vegetables may be served around the meat if desired4 ,this way of cooking can be done in a pot if more convenient1 and is then called a pot roast4 ,,beef ,a ,,la ,,mode ,use six or seven pounds of the upper round of beef for this dish4 7,it is very good cold when properly cooked47 ,the success depends upon very slow cooking4 ,the vegetables give it a distinctive flavor4 ,make several deep incisions into the meat with a thin1 sharp knife1 or with a steel4 ,press into them lardoons of salt pork about half an inch square1 and two or three inches long4 ,this is called daubing1 and the butcher will ordinarily do it if requested4 ,put trimmings of pork1 or two tablespoonfuls of drippings1 into the bottom of a large iron pot4 ,when it is hot1 put in the meat1 and brown it on all sides by turning it to the bottom of the pot4 ,this will take about half an hour4 ,next dredge it with flour1 and brown that also4 ,then put a small plate under the beef to lift it a little off the bottom of the pot1 and prevent its burning4 ,fill the pot with enough boiling water to half cover the meat4 ,add a half cupful each of sliced onions1 carrots1 and turnips1 and a sprig of parsley4 ,cover the pot very tight1 so the meat will cook in steam2 and simmer it for four or five hours4 ,add more boiling water when necessary4 ,when the meat is done1 place it on a hot dish4 ,place some of the vegetables around and over it4 ,make a gravy as follows3 put into a saucepan a tablespoonful of butter2 when it bubbles1 add a tablespoonful of flour1 and stir until it is browned2 then add a cupful of liquor strained from the pot in which the beef was cooked4 ,if there is not a cupful of liquor in the pot1 add enough hot water to make that quantity4 ,season with pepper and salt4 ,this will resemble a ,spanish sauce4 ,it can be poured over the meat1 or served separately4 ,,bouilli ,this dish is prepared usually from the meat used in making soup4 ,take a piece from the lower side of round2 trim1 and tie it into good shape2 place it in the soup pot with cold water1 allowing one quart of water to each pound of meat4 ,let it come slowly to the boiling point1 and then let it simmer for four hours4 ,after it has cooked two hours add a whole carrot1 onion1 and turnip1 parsley1 celery1 six peppercorns1 three cloves1 one teaspoonful of salt4 ,the meat will be tender if cooked very slowly1 and not allowed to boil2 but having been put into cold water1 its juices will be extracted4 ,therefore the water is used as soup1 and the meat will depend on a good sauce for flavor4 ,any rich brown sauce will do4 ,tomato or horseradish sauce is recommended4 ,cut the vegetables into fancy shapes with cutters1 or into dice1 and place them on the dish around the meat4 ,,fillet ,,of ,,beef ,time1 thirty minutes in hot oven4 ,the fillet is the tenderloin of beef1 and is taken from the underside of the sirloin cut4 ,remove1 taking care not to make the meat ragged1 the sinewy skin and the muscle from the top1 and most of the fat from the other side4 ,fold the thin end under1 trim it into good shape4 ,lard it plentifully1 letting the whole upper surface be perforated with fine lardoons4 ,place in a small baking pan thin slices of larding pork1 over the pork place a layer of chopped onion1 carrot1 turnip and celery2 lay the tenderloin on top4 ,pour in the pan a cupful of stock1 add one half teaspoonful of salt1 one quarter teaspoonful of pepper1 and a bouquet of parsley1 one bay-leaf1 and two cloves4 ,bake in a hot oven for thirty minutes1 and baste frequently4 ,the fillet should be rare4 ,remove it when done2 strain off the gravy1 and skim off the grease4 ,put into the same pan a tablespoonful each of butter and of flour2 stir until they are browned2 then add slowly the gravy strained from the pan2 if not enough to give a cupful1 add enough stock to make that measure4 ,stir until it boils2 then add a canful of mushrooms 7which have been drained71 and let them simmer for five minutes2 not longer1 or the mushrooms will harden4 ,taste to see if the seasoning is right4 ,add a half teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet to make it brown4 ,the sauce should be of the consistency of cream4 ,a half cupful of ,madeira or of sherry may be used in place of the mushrooms if preferred4 ,spread the sauce on the serving dish1 and lay the fillet on it4 ,arrange the mushrooms top side up1 evenly around the fillet4 ,in carving cut the fillet diagonally1 instead of straight across2 and put a little gravy in the center of each slice4 ,the time for cooking is always thirty minutes1 for the weight is in the length1 and not in the thickness of the meat4 ,,how ,,to ,,buy ,a ,,fillet ,a profitable way to obtain a fillet is to buy a large cut of the sirloin1 remove the tenderloin1 and have the top cut into two or more roasting pieces4 ,beef will keep for some time1 and the butcher will hold it until called for4 ,in this way it will cost twenty-two to twenty-five cents per pound1 while1 if bought by itself1 it would be from eighty cents to one dollar per pound4 ,for a moderate sized family it may seem too much beef to buy at one time2 but it is the one kind of meat that can be served very often1 and there is no waste4 ,it is good hot or cold1 warmed over or hashed4 ,the suet is the best fat for frying purposes1 and the bones make good soup4 ,part of the sirloin piece can be cut into steaks1 and one of the roasting pieces rolled to give variety4 ,the flank can be made into ,hamburg steaks1 or into soup4 ,if judiciously cut there will be little left over to cook again4 ,,cold ,,roast ,,beef ,roasted and braised beef are both quite as good cold as hot1 and in summer are sometimes preferable cold4 ,serve with cold beef a vegetable salad when it is used for dinner4 ,make the salad of string beans1 asparagus1 or a macedoine of vegetables4 ,for a supper dish1 the rolled rib roast can be made very attractive by garnishing it with aspic jelly cut into fancy forms4 ,place a large star of the jelly on top1 and small timbale forms of jellied vegetables1 and broken jelly on the dish around the meat2 or a simpler garnishing can be made with lettuce leaves1 tomatoes stuffed with mayonnaise1 or celery1 etc4 ,use lettuce with any of the salads4 ,have a fancy skewer stuck in the side4 ,,scalloped ,,meat ,spread in a baking dish alternate layers of bread-crumbs1 meat chopped very fine1 a sprinkling of chopped parsley and onion1 pepper and salt4 ,when the dish is nearly full1 pour over enough white sauce to moisten it well2 cover with crumbs and bits of butter4 ,set in oven until browned4 ,soup stock or tomatoes may also be used for moistening a scallop4 ,if uncooked meat is used1 it will require longer cooking 7one hour in slow oven71 and more liquid used1 so that it will not get too dry4 ,the coarse ends of steak can be utilized in this way4 ,a scallop made of raw meat and tomatoes makes a good luncheon dish4 ,,hamburg ,,steaks ,chop one pound of lean raw meat very fine1 remove all the fiber possible4 ,to the mince add #a_/b tablespoonful of onion juice4 #a_/b teaspoonful salt4 #a_/d teaspoonful pepper4 ,dash of nutmeg4 #a egg4 ,form it into small balls1 and flatten2 dredge them with flour1 and saute them in butter4 ,place them on a hot dish1 and spread with maitre d'hotel butter2 or make a thick brown sauce by adding a tablespoonful of flour to the butter used in the saute pan4 ,let it brown2 then add slowly a little soup stock4 ,season with salt and pepper1 and lemon juice1 or ,worcestershire sauce4 ,drop a teaspoonful of sauce on each cake without spreading it4 ,garnish with water-cresses4 ,these steaks can be made from the end pieces of steaks1 or from the round4 ,when made for invalids1 the best meat is used4 ,they are seasoned only with salt and pepper1 and broiled just enough to be thoroughly heated4 ,another way to serve them is to make them the size of ,english muffins2 on the upper side make a depression or hollow1 broil or saute them1 and place them on a baking dish2 spread them with maitre d'hotel butter1 and drop an egg in the hollow top of each one4 ,put them in the oven just long enough to set the white of the egg4 ,place a dash of pepper on the center of the yolk1 and serve at once very hot4 ,,beef ,,pie ,lay in a pie dish a few thin slices of onion2 then a layer of cold cooked beef cut very thin4 ,dredge with a little flour1 pepper1 and salt2 fill the dish with these articles in alternate layers1 and add any cold gravy there may be at hand4 ,scald and peel enough tomatoes to cover the top of the dish2 have them of uniform size1 and place them close together4 ,spread over them some bread crumbs1 salt1 pepper1 and bits of butter4 ,place the dish in the oven1 and cook until the tomatoes are tender4 ,mutton or veal may be used in the same way4 ,,warmed-,,over ,,beef 7,,chafing-,,dish7 ,cut the beef into small thin slices1 and trim off the fat4 ,put into a stew pan one tablespoonful of butter1 and one tablespoonful of flour4 ,when cooked1 and a little browned1 add slowly one cupful of stock1 one teaspoonful each of ,worcestershire sauce and mushroom catsup4 ,season with salt and pepper to taste4 ,add the slices of beef1 and let them become thoroughly hot4 ,then place in the center of a hot dish1 and pour the sauce over them4 ,garnish with croutons1 and serve with it farina balls 7see page #bbc74 ,tomato catsup may be substituted for the ,worcestershire sauce4 ,when this dish is to be prepared in a chafing-dish1 the sauce may be made beforehand2 the heating and mixing only being done over the lamp1 and croutons alone served with it4 ,any kind of meat or fish may be used in this way4 ,,inside ,,flank ,take the piece of meat called the inside flank2 wipe it clean with a wet cloth2 carefully remove the skin and fat and lay it flat on a board2 moisten three quarters of a cupful of crumbs with stock2 add one teaspoonful of salt1 one quarter teaspoonful of pepper1 one teaspoonful onion juice or one half onion chopped fine1 one tablespoonful chopped parsley4 ,spread this mixture on the meat evenly2 then roll and tie it with white twine2 turn in the ends to make it even and shapely4 ,cut into dice an onion1 turnip1 and carrot1 and place them in a baking-pan2 lay the rolled meat on the bed of vegetables2 pour in enough stock or water to cover the pan one inch deep2 add a bouquet made of parsley1 one bay-leaf and three cloves2 cover with another pan1 and let cook slowly for four or five hours1 basting frequently4 ,it can be done in a pot just as well1 and should be covered as tight as possible2 when cooked1 strain off the vegetables2 thicken the gravy with brown roux and serve it with the meat4 ,long1 slow cooking is essential to make the meat tender4 ,if cooked too fast it will not be good4 ,a thin steak cut from the round may be cooked the same way1 and a little ham chopped fine may be added to the stuffing4 ,the cost of this dish is not more than eighteen to twenty-five cents1 and is enough for four or five persons4 ,,ragout ,,of ,,beef ,cut two pounds of the upper round of beef into inch squares2 dredge them with salt and pepper1 and roll them in flour4 ,put into a saucepan some butter and some drippings1 or a little suet1 and let it try out1 using enough only to cover the bottom of the saucepan2 when the grease is hot1 turn in the pieces of meat1 and let them cook until well browned on all sides4 ,watch1 and turn them as soon as browned2 then draw the meat to one side of the pan1 and add a tablespoonful of flour2 let the flour brown1 and add a cupful of stock or water1 and stir until it comes to the boiling-point2 then add a teaspoonful of salt1 a half teaspoonful of pepper1 one half teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet2 one carrot cut into blocks1 and one tablespoonful of onion2 cover the saucepan1 and let it simmer 7not boil7 for an hour4 ,just before serving add two tablespoonfuls of sherry or of ,madeira4 ,serve a border of rice around the ragout4 ,,beefsteak ,some one has said1 ,there is as much difference between beefsteaks as between faces2 and a man of taste can find as much variety in a dinner at the ,beefsteak ,club as at the most plentifully-served table in town4 ,sidenote3 ,thickness4 ,sidenote3 ,sauces4 ,the difference between a thick and a thin steak is particularly marked--the former seems like an altogether different dish from the latter4 ,some may like their steak well done1 but it is not a taste to be commended4 ,a perfect steak should be cut one and a half inches thick1 and cooked so that on both sides it has a crust one eighth of an inch thick of browned meat1 the rest being an even red color4 ,it should be puffed and elastic from the confined steam of the juices4 ,when the steak is over-cooked the steam and the juices have escaped1 leaving the meat dry and tasteless4 ,the three best sauces which are served with steak are first the maitre d'hotel and then the ,bearnaise and mushroom sauces4 ,tough beefsteaks can be made more tender by pounding them2 but a better way is to brush them on both sides with a mixture of one tablespoonful of vinegar and two tablespoonfuls of oil or melted butter4 ,the steak should then stand two or more hours before being cooked4 ,it is the fiber of meat which makes it tough1 and this fiber is soluble in acetic acid1 which is found in vinegar4 ,broiling under the coals is better than over them when possible1 as all smoke is then avoided4 ,,to ,,broil ,a ,,beefsteak ,time3 one inch thick1 eight minutes2 one and a half inches thick1 ten minutes4 ,trim a steak into good shape1 taking off the end-piece to be used in some other form1 as it is not eatable when broiled2 take off superfluous fat2 make the surface smooth by striking it with the broad blade of knife2 heat the broiler very hot4 ,take a piece of the fat1 trimmed off the meat1 on a fork and grease the broiler well2 lay on the steak with the outside or skin edge toward the handle1 so the fat may run on the meat4 ,place it close to the hot coals and count ten slowly2 turn it and do the same2 this is to sear the outside and keep the juices in2 then hold it farther from the coals to cook more slowly1 and turn it as often as you count ten1 counting about as fast as the clock ticks4 ,if turned in this way very little fat will run into the fire1 and it also cooks slowly1 giving an even color all through4 ,the flame from fat does not injure the meat1 but the smoke must be avoided4 ,wrap a napkin around the hand holding the broiler to protect it from the heat4 ,a steak ought not to be less than an inch1 but should be one and a half to one and three quarters inches thick4 ,allow eight to ten minutes for cooking according to the thickness4 ,one two inches thick will take fourteen to eighteen minutes4 ,a steak should be rare but not raw1 should have a uniform red color1 and be full of juice4 ,when done it will be puffed between the wires of broiler1 and will offer a little resistance to the touch4 ,if experience does not enable one to judge in this way1 remove the broiler to a dish on the table1 and make a small clean cut on one side4 ,do not at any time pierce the meat with a fork4 ,sprinkle it with salt and pepper1 and spread with maitre d'hotel butter4 ,if the steak has to stand a few minutes before serving1 which should be avoided if possible1 dredge it at once with salt and pepper1 but do not spread with the maitre d'hotel butter until just before sending it to the table4 ,the heat of the meat must melt the butter1 and the parsley should look fresh and bright4 ,steak1 as well as all broiled articles1 should be garnished with slices of lemon and with water-cress4 ,fried potato-balls1 straws1 puffed1 or ,saratoga potatoes may be served on the same dish4 ,,chateaubriand ,the ,chateaubriand is cut from the center of the fillet2 but a good substitute is a tenderloin steak cut two inches thick1 the bone removed1 and the meat then turned so as to make a circle4 ,flatten it by striking with broad blade of knife or a cleaver4 ,broil slowly as directed above for eighteen minutes4 ,serve with maitre d'hotel butter1 mushroom1 or olive sauce1 placing the mushrooms or olives on top of the steak1 the sauce under it4 7,see illustration facing page #aeb47 ,the ,chateaubriand may also be roasted or braised4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,boned ,,tenderloin ,,steak ,,made ,,to ,,imitate ,a ,,chateaubriand ,,garnished ,,with ,,water-,,cress ,,and ,,lemon4 7,,see ,,page #aeg47 ,,mignon ,,fillets ,cut slices from the end of the fillet of beef about five eighths of an inch thick4 ,press and trim them into circles2 dredge with salt and pepper2 saute them in butter2 spread ,bearnaise sauce on a hot dish1 and lay the mignon fillets on it1 or lay the fillets on croutons of the same size as the fillet1 and place on top of each one a small spoonful of peas1 string-beans1 or macedoine of vegetables4 ,,corned ,,beef ,put corned beef into cold water2 using enough to cover it well2 let it come slowly to the boiling-point2 then place where it will simmer only2 allow thirty minutes or more to each pound4 ,it is improved by adding a few soup vegetables the last hour of cooking4 ,a piece from the round is the best cut1 and should have a layer of fat4 ,if cooked very slowly as directed1 it will be tender and juicy4 ,if the piece can be used a second time1 trim it to good shape2 place it again in the water in which it was boiled2 let it get heated through2 then set aside to cool in the water and under pressure1 a plate or deep dish holding a flat-iron being set on top of the meat4 ,the water need not rise above the meat sufficiently to wet the iron4 ,when cooled under pressure the meat is more firm and cuts better into slices4 ,cabbage is usually served with hot corned beef1 but should not be boiled with it4 ,the receipt given on page #bab is recommended1 and if that method is followed1 there will be no odor from the cooking1 and the objection to this very good dish will be removed4 ,,corned ,,beef ,,hash ,chop cooked corned beef1 using some of the fat4 ,do not make it too fine2 chop some cold boiled potatoes 7not fine72 mix the two together in equal proportions2 season with salt1 pepper1 and onion juice1 if liked4 ,put a tablespoonful of butter in a frying-pan with as much milk1 stock1 or hot water as will be required to moisten the hash2 add the chopped meat and potatoes2 mix them together with care to not mash the potatoes2 cover and cook slowly for half an hour1 or until a crust has formed on the bottom of the pan2 then turn it on to a hot dish1 like an omelet4 ,hash should not be like mush1 but the meat and potato quite distinct1 and as both ingredients have been already cooked they need only to be well heated and incorporated with the seasoning4 ,,hash ,unless for brown hash1 or corned beef hash1 potato is not used4 ,chop the meat to a fine mince4 ,put a tablespoonful of butter into a frying-pan with one slice of onion2 remove the onion when cooked1 and add one tablespoonful of flour1 and let it brown1 thus making a brown roux1 if the hash is to be made of beef or mutton4 ,do not let it brown if it is to be used for veal or chicken hash4 ,to the brown roux add slowly a cupful of stock or hot water2 then a cupful and a half of minced meat2 season with salt and pepper2 stir until well incorporated1 and serve at once on toast4 ,to a white roux add slowly a cupful of milk2 then add one and a half cupfuls of veal or chicken chopped fine2 season with salt and pepper4 ,cut toast into large circles with a biscuit-cutter4 ,spread them with a thick layer of mince1 and on this place a poached egg1 neatly trimmed to the same size as the toast4 ,it can be cut with the same cutter1 or it may be poached in a muffin-ring 7see page #bfc74 ,put a dash of pepper on the center of yolk4 ,garnish with parsley4 ,this makes a very presentable breakfast or luncheon dish4 ,,brown ,,hash ,cut lean meat into small dice2 cut also cold boiled potatoes into dice of the same size2 mix them together1 and place in a small baking-pan2 dredge with salt and pepper1 and dot plentifully with bits of butter4 ,put into hot oven to brown2 stir them often so all sides will brown alike1 and do not let them become too dry4 ,,marrow-,,bones ,have the bones cut into pieces two or three inches long2 scrape and wash them very clean2 spread a little thick dough on each end to keep the marrow in2 then tie each bone in a piece of cloth and boil them for one hour4 ,remove the cloth and paste1 and place each bone on a square of toast2 sprinkle with red pepper and serve very hot4 ,or the marrow-bone can be boiled without being cut1 the marrow then removed with a spoon and placed on squares of hot toast4 ,serve for luncheon4 7,see illustration facing page #aeb47 ,illustration3 ,,marrow-,,bones ,,served ,,on ,,round ,,slices ,,of ,,toast4 7,,see ,,page #aei47 ,,mutton ,sidenote3 ,the cuts and cooking of ,mutton4 ,mutton should be hung for some days before being used4 ,the leg may be either boiled or roasted2 the saddle always roasted2 the shoulder boned1 stuffed and roasted2 the chops broiled1 and the neck stewed4 ,except where it is stewed1 mutton should be cooked rare4 ,mrs4 ,brugiere recommends pounding the leg of mutton before cooking it4 ,the roasted leg or the saddle are the only forms of mutton permissible to serve at a ceremonious dinner4 ,the strong taste of mutton is in the fat4 ,therefore trim off a part of the fat from the outside1 and when baking it in the oven set the joint on a rack in the pan1 so it will not cook in the fat4 ,sidenote3 ,vegetables to serve with ,mutton4 ,sidenote3 ,anecdote of ,charles ,lamb4 ,certain vegetables have by experience been found to go well with certain meats4 ,of these turnips have been established as the accompaniment of mutton4 ,this has been amusingly emphasized by an anecdote told of ,charles ,lamb4 ,on an occasion when riding in a stage coach1 he was much annoyed by a ,scotch farmer1 who was a fellow passenger1 asking him questions about the crops4 ,and pray1 sir1 asked the farmer1 how are turnips t' year8 ,why1 stammered ,lamb1 that will depend upon the boiled legs of mutton4 ,turnips and carrots cut into dice1 boiled separately1 then mixed and covered with white sauce1 also make a good vegetable dish for boiled mutton4 ,caper sauce is always served with it4 ,another anecdote is given as a suggestion for an expedient in case the mutton is too underdone 7boiled mutton should be red1 but not black74 ,an ,english nobleman1 on being shown a ,dutch picture representing a man in a passion with his wife because the mutton was underdone1 exclaimed1 ,what a fool the fellow is not to see that he may have a capital broil4 ,with roasted mutton may be served baked turnips stuffed with seasoned bread-crumbs soaked in cream4 ,it is a ,russian dish4 ,bananas cut in two1 rolled in egg and crumbs1 and fried like croquettes1 are also recommended for roast mutton4 ,mint sauce and green peas are usually served with spring lamb4 ,,roast ,,leg ,,of ,,mutton ,time ten minutes per pound 7rare72 fifteen minutes per pound 7moderately well done74 ,cut the bone short1 place in a hot oven for twenty minutes2 then add one cupful of hot water2 baste frequently4 ,allow ten minutes to the pound for cooking rare4 ,when ready to serve conceal the bone with a frill of paper1 or a few leaves of parsley4 ,,roast ,,loin ,,of ,,mutton ,have the joints cracked entirely through1 so there may be no trouble in carving4 ,remove the fat and kidney4 ,allow nine minutes to the pound2 roast the same as the leg4 ,,roast ,,saddle ,,of ,,mutton ,the saddle is the back of the animal4 ,if split it would be called the loin1 and when cut gives the chops4 ,it does not furnish very much meat for a roast1 so requires to be a large cut4 ,it is esteemed for its handsome appearance1 as well as for its flavor4 ,remove the skin from the top1 also the fat and kidneys from the under side4 ,the suet on the top can be lightly cut in points1 and a little raised to make decoration4 ,roll the flaps under1 and tie into a well rounded shape4 ,if a large saddle is used1 the tail is left on4 ,it should be cooked in a hot oven1 basted frequently1 and cooked rare1 allowing nine minutes to the pound4 ,in carving cut slices the length of the saddle1 and parallel to the back bone2 then slip the knife under1 and separate them from the rib bones4 ,after the top is carved1 the saddle is turned1 and the tenderloin1 which lies on the under side1 is cut in the same way4 ,serve currant jelly with the saddle of mutton4 ,,rolled ,,loin 7,,crown ,,roast7 ,have the butcher cut a full loin1 split the bone between the chops1 trim the rib bones as for ,french chops1 and chop them off to a uniform length2 then roll the loin backward into a circle1 and tie securely4 ,have a thick slice of larding pork wrapped around each bone1 so it will not burn while cooking4 ,baste frequently while roasting1 and allow nine minutes to the pound4 ,serve with ,saratoga or other fancy fried potatoes in the basket-like top formed by the bones4 ,place a frill of paper on each bone4 ,illustration3 ,,crown ,,roast4 ,a ,,rack ,,of ,,mutton1 ,,the ,,center ,,filled ,,with ,,saratoga ,,potatoes4 7,,see ,,page #afb47 ,illustration3 ,,crown ,,roast ,,prepared ,,for ,,cooking4 ,,shoulder ,,of ,,mutton ,,stuffed ,have the butcher carefully remove the blade from the shoulder1 and fill the space with a mixture made of #a cupful of bread-crumbs4 #b tablespoonfuls of butter4 #a tablespoonful chopped parsley4 #a dozen oysters4 ,juice of #a lemon4 #a teaspoonful of salt4 #a_/d teaspoonful of pepper4 #a egg4 ,sew up the opening1 roast in the oven with a little water in the pan2 allow fifteen minutes to the pound1 and baste frequently4 ,serve with the gravy from the pan1 after the grease is carefully poured off4 ,more oysters may be used1 or they may be omitted altogether4 ,a stuffing may be made of chopped meat1 celery1 onion1 mushrooms1 crumbs1 egg1 and seasoning of salt and pepper4 ,a stuffed shoulder can be pressed into a shape to resemble a fowl or a duck1 and garnished so as to make an ornamental dish4 ,illustration3 ,,boned ,,and ,,stuffed ,,shoulder ,,of ,,mutton4 7,,see ,,page #afc47 ,,boiled ,,mutton ,time fifteen minutes to the pound4 ,put the mutton in just enough boiling water to cover it1 and put on the lid of the pot4 ,after fifteen minutes draw it aside1 and let it simmer for the required time4 ,thirty minutes before removing the meat add some soup vegetables4 ,they will give flavor to the meat1 and enrich the water1 which may be used for soup the next day4 ,cut the carrot and turnip in half inch thick slices1 and stamp with a fluted cutter1 so the rims will be scalloped4 ,place the meat on a hot dish1 and rub lightly over it enough of the white sauce 7to be used for the caper sauce7 to make the surface white and smooth4 ,sprinkle with chopped parsley or capers4 ,take the sliced vegetables1 cut a hole in the center1 and string them alternately on the bone1 which will protrude at each end4 ,this will give the effect of skewers1 conceal the bone1 and make the dish more presentable4 ,serve with caper sauce4 ,,caper ,,sauce ,put two tablespoonfuls of butter into a saucepan2 when melted1 add a tablespoonful of flour2 cook for a few minutes1 but not brown2 then add one cupful of water in which the mutton was boiled2 season with salt and pepper1 strain1 and add one heaping tablespoonful of capers4 ,,ragout ,,of ,,mutton ,,or ,,lamb ,one and one half pounds of the neck of mutton or lamb cut into pieces one inch square4 #a tablespoonful of butter4 #a tablespoonful of flour4 #a onion4 #a carrot4 #a_/b can of peas4 #a-a_/b cupfuls of water or stock4 #a teaspoonful of salt4 #a_/d teaspoonful of pepper4 ,sprig of parsley4 #a bay-leaf4 #a clove4 ,put the butter into a frying-pan2 when melted add the flour1 and let brown4 ,then add the carrot and onion cut into dice1 and the mutton4 ,cook1 stirring frequently1 until all are browned1 using care that they do not burn2 it will take about twenty minutes4 ,then add the stock or water1 and the seasoning1 having the herbs in a bouquet1 so they can be removed4 ,cover closely1 and let simmer for two hours4 ,add the peas ten minutes before removing from the fire4 ,,ragout ,,of ,,cold ,,boiled ,,mutton #b cupfuls of cold boiled mutton cut in inch squares4 #a onion sliced4 #a cupful of stock or water in which mutton was boiled4 #b tablespoonfuls of butter4 #a_/b can of peas4 #a teaspoonful of salt4 #a_/d teaspoonful of pepper4 #a head of lettuce4 ,farina balls4 ,put all the ingredients1 except the lettuce and farina balls1 into a saucepan together2 cover closely1 and simmer very slowly for one hour2 stir occasionally1 but with care not to break the meat or peas4 ,when ready to serve1 taste to see if the seasoning is right1 and pour on a hot dish4 ,lay around the edge1 and close to the meat1 the crisp leaves of one head of lettuce1 and the farina balls 7see page #bbc74 ,this way of utilizing cold mutton will be found very good4 ,the garnishing makes it a presentable dish1 and is a good accompaniment in place of other vegetables4 ,illustration3 ,,ragout ,,of ,,mutton ,,garnished ,,with ,,farina ,,balls ,,and ,,lettuce4 7,,see ,,page #afe47 ,,irish ,,stew ,cut the neck of mutton into pieces two and one half or three inches square4 ,put them into a saucepan with one tablespoonful of butter1 and let them brown2 stir frequently so they do not burn4 ,when browned add enough water to cover them well1 and two or three onions cut into pieces4 ,cover closely and let simmer two hours4 ,then add more water if necessary1 some parboiled potatoes cut in two1 and a few slices of carrot1 salt1 and pepper to taste2 cover and let cook one hour more4 ,a teaspoonful of ,worcestershire sauce is an improvement4 ,the gravy must be quite thick1 so too much water must not be used4 ,the potatoes should be very soft1 but not broken4 ,,mutton ,,chops ,loin chops should be cut one and one fourth inches thick1 and the fat trimmed off1 leaving them round2 or the end pieces may be pared off thin1 wrapped around the chops1 and fastened with a skewer1 making the chop into the form of a circle4 ,the breast chops are cut a little thinner1 the bones scraped and cut into even lengths4 ,they are called ,french chops when the bones are bare4 ,whichever kind of chops are used1 they should be all of uniform size and shape4 ,broil the chops over or under hot coals1 turning the broiler as often as you count ten slowly1 using the same method as in broiling steak4 ,when the meat offers a little resistance and is puffy1 it is done4 ,if cooked too long the chops will be hard and dry4 ,if properly seared at first the juices are shut in1 and the inflation is caused by the confined steam from the juices4 ,it will take eight to ten minutes to broil chops which are one inch thick4 ,when done sprinkle over them a little salt and pepper and butter4 ,dress them on a hot dish in a circle1 the chops overlapping4 ,green peas1 string-beans1 or any small vegetable1 or fancy-fried potatoes1 such as balls1 straws1 ,saratoga1 etc41 may be served on the same dish1 and placed in the center of the circle1 or around the chops4 ,spinach or mashed potato pressed into form of socle may be used1 and the chops rested against it1 the bones pointing up or slanting4 ,paper frills placed on the ends of the bones improve their appearance4 ,illustration3 ,,three ,,kinds ,,of ,,mutton ,,chops4 #a4 ,english ,mutton ,chop4 #b4 ,french ,chop4 #c4 ,boned and ,rolled ,chop4 7,see page #afe47 ,,chops ,,in ,,paper ,,cases ,put into a frying-pan some slices of salt pork2 when tried out1 lay in neatly trimmed and seasoned lamb or veal chops2 let them saute until half cooked2 remove the chops1 and to the pan add a tablespoonful of onion chopped fine2 when the onion is cooked add a cupful of stock and a cupful of mixture containing minced veal or chicken1 a little ham1 and mushrooms1 chopped parsley1 and truffles if convenient2 salt and pepper to taste4 ,put a spoonful of this sauce on a well-buttered or oiled paper1 cut in heart-shape2 lay the chop on the sauce1 and on the chop put another spoonful of the sauce4 ,fold the paper over1 and plait the edges together so as to completely enclose the chop4 ,lay the enclosed chops on a buttered dish1 and place them in the oven for ten minutes2 serve on the same dish very hot4 ,chops can also be broiled in well-greased paper1 and with a little care it is easily done without burning the paper4 ,heavy writing paper should be used2 the fire should be moderate1 and the chops turned frequently4 ,they are served in the papers1 and are very good1 as they hold all the juices of the meat4 ,,chops ,a ,,la ,,maintenon ,put one tablespoonful of butter in a frying-pan2 when hot add one tablespoonful of flour2 let the flour cook a few minutes2 then add four tablespoonfuls of chopped mushrooms1 one teaspoonful of parsley1 one half teaspoonful of salt1 and a dash of pepper2 moisten with three tablespoonfuls of stock2 mix well together and set aside to cool4 ,have six ,french chops cut one inch thick4 ,with a sharp knife split the chops in two without separating them at the bone2 spread the mushroom mixture between the opened chops2 press the edges well together1 and broil for eight minutes2 serve with an olive sauce4 ,,spring ,,lamb ,spring lamb is best when two months old4 ,it must be used when fresh1 and must be thoroughly cooked1 but not dried4 ,it is divided into the fore and hind quarters1 the whole of either not being too much to serve at one time2 the former are less expensive than the latter1 but the meat is equally sweet and good4 ,roast it in a hot oven with a little water in the pan2 allow fifteen to eighteen minutes to the pound1 and baste frequently2 serve with it mint sauce1 and green peas or asparagus tips for vegetable4 ,when using a fore quarter1 have the bones well cracked1 so that in carving it may be cut into squares1 or have the shoulder blade removed4 ,a very good dressing may be made on the table as follows3 cut around the shoulder bone2 lift and place under it two tablespoonfuls of butter1 the juice of one lemon1 one teaspoonful of salt1 one half teaspoonful of pepper4 ,press the pieces together1 and let stand a minute to melt the butter before carving4 ,,veal ,the flesh of veal should be pink and firm1 the bones hard4 ,if it has a blue tinge and is flabby1 it has been killed too young1 and is unwholesome4 ,like lamb1 it must be used while perfectly fresh and be thoroughly cooked4 ,it contains less nourishment than other kinds of meat2 also1 having less flavor1 it requires more seasoning4 ,veal is frequently used as a substitute for chicken4 ,it can be made into croquettes and salads very acceptably4 ,,roast ,,fillet ,,of ,,veal ,the fillet is cut from the upper part of the leg1 and should be four to six inches thick4 ,only one good fillet can be cut from the leg4 ,press and tie it into good round shape4 ,lay a few slices of larding pork over the top4 ,place it in very hot oven for fifteen minutes2 then lower the heat2 baste frequently with water from the pan2 allow eighteen to twenty minutes to the pound4 ,it must be thoroughly cooked1 but not dried4 ,remove the slices of pork from top a half hour before it is done1 so it may brown4 ,the bone may be removed from the fillet before cooking1 and the space filled with stuffing made of crumbs1 sweet herbs1 pepper and salt1 and a little chopped salt pork4 ,thicken the gravy in pan to serve with the fillet4 ,,stuffed ,,shoulder ,,of ,,veal ,twenty to twenty-five minutes per pound4 ,have the blade removed1 and fill the space with a stuffing made of bread crumbs1 thyme1 marjoram1 lemon juice1 chopped salt pork1 salt and pepper1 and an egg2 also chopped mushrooms1 if desired4 ,sew up the opening1 press and tie it into good shape1 and roast the same as the fillet4 ,the stuffing may also be made of minced veal cut from the knuckle1 highly seasoned4 ,,fricandeau ,,of ,,veal ,the fricandeau is the most choice cut of veal4 ,it is taken from the upper round of the leg1 and is one side of the fillet4 ,as it destroys that cut1 it commands the highest price4 ,it should be cut four inches thick1 and is usually larded and braised4 ,place it in a baking-pan on a layer of sliced salt pork1 and chopped carrot1 onion1 and turnip4 ,add a bouquet of herbs1 a cupful of stock1 and enough water to fill the pan one and a half inches deep4 ,cover closely1 and let cook in moderate oven1 allowing twenty minutes to the pound2 baste frequently4 ,remove the cover for the last half hour1 so the meat may brown4 ,strain the gravy from the pan to serve with it4 ,,veal ,,cutlets ,leave the cutlet whole or cut it into pieces of uniform size and shape2 dredge with salt and pepper2 dip in egg and cover with bread crumbs or with flour2 saute cutlets in drippings1 or in a frying-pan after slices of salt pork have been tried out4 ,cook until well browned on both sides2 then place them on a hot dish and moisten the top with a little lemon juice2 or1 omitting the lemon juice1 serve with them a tomato or a ,bearnaise sauce1 or make a gravy by adding a little flour to the grease in the pan1 and diluting to right consistency1 after the flour is browned1 with stock or water4 ,if the gravy is used1 put it in the bottom of the dish and place the cutlets on it4 ,a ,,plain ,,pot-,,pie ,cut veal1 chicken1 or beef into pieces2 put them with strips of pork into boiling water and cook until tender2 season with salt1 pepper1 and butter4 ,there should be enough liquid to make a generous amount of gravy4 ,when the stew is ready cook the dumplings1 and place them on the same dish around the stew4 ,if suet dumplings are used1 they must be placed in the pot as soon as it boils in order to cook them a sufficient length of time4 ,it is better to cook either kind of dumplings in a separate pot with plenty of water1 and not remove them until the stew is dished and ready to be sent to the table4 ,,dumplings ,,with ,,baking ,,powder #b cupfuls of flour4 #a_/b teaspoonful of salt4 #b teaspoonfuls of baking powder4 #a cupful of milk4 ,mix the flour1 salt1 and baking powder well together1 then stir in quickly the milk4 ,have the dough quite soft4 ,drop the batter from a spoon into the stew1 or into boiling water2 or1 if preferred1 make the dough just consistent enough to roll1 and cut it into squares4 ,the stew must not be allowed to stop simmering after the dumplings are in2 and they must be served immediately after being taken from the pot1 or they will fall4 ,it will take ten minutes to cook them4 ,,dumplings ,,with ,,suet #a cupful of chopped suet4 #b scant cupfuls of flour4 #a teaspoonful of salt4 #a_/b cupful of cold water4 ,mix together lightly the flour1 suet and salt2 then with a knife stir in quickly the water4 ,the dough must be soft1 but not sticky4 ,put it on a board1 and roll it lightly to one inch thickness1 and place it on the boiling stew in one cake4 ,the stew must not stop boiling for a moment1 or the dumpling will fall4 ,cook for one hour4 ,the dough may be rolled into balls if preferred4 ,when the dumpling is put in1 draw the pot forward where it will heat quickly1 and not arrest the boiling4 ,when it is thoroughly hot1 place it where it will simmer continually during the hour of cooking4 ,if this rule is observed1 it will be light and spongy4 ,where cooked meat is used1 which does not require such long cooking1 the dumplings may be boiled in water4 ,this mixture can be used for fruit and for roly-poly puddings 7see page #ddc74 ,,jellied ,,veal ,wipe a knuckle of veal clean with a wet cloth2 have it well broken4 ,put it in a saucepan with two quarts of water1 or enough to cover it4 ,tie in a piece of cheese-cloth one tablespoonful each of chopped onion1 carrot1 and turnip1 a little parsley and celery1 three cloves1 and a blade of mace4 ,put it in the pot4 ,boil slowly until the veal falls from the bone2 then strain it1 and put the liquor again in the saucepan2 season it with salt1 pepper1 and a little lemon juice4 ,reduce it to one quart by boiling with the cover off the saucepan4 ,cut two hard-boiled eggs into thin slices1 and with them ornament the bottom of a plain mold2 a brick ice-cream mold1 or a small tin basin will do4 ,put a very little of the liquor in to fix the ornament1 but not enough to float the egg slices4 ,when set add a little more of the liquor1 enough to make a layer of jelly one quarter of an inch thick4 ,when that is set fill the mold with the veal1 and place slices of boiled egg between the layers of meat4 ,around the sides of the mold lay in slices of egg4 ,then pour in as much of the liquor as it will hold1 and set away to harden4 ,this makes a good cold dish to use with salad4 ,illustration3 ,,jellied ,,veal ,,decorated ,,with ,,slices ,,of ,,hard-,,boiled ,,egg4 ,,garnished ,,with ,,lettuce4 ,,veal ,,loaf #c pounds of veal4 #a_/b pound of ham1 or #a_/d pound of salt pork4 #b eggs4 #a cupful of fine bread or cracker crumbs4 #a teaspoonful of salt4 #a_/b teaspoonful of pepper4 #a teaspoonful of onion juice4 #a_/b teaspoonful of ground mace4 #a_/b teaspoonful of allspice4 ,chop the veal and ham very fine1 mix into it the other ingredients1 and mold it into a loaf2 or press it into a mold or tin to form a loaf2 then turn it on a baking dish4 ,baste it with beaten egg1 and sprinkle it with bread crumbs4 ,cook in moderate oven for two hours1 basting it several times with melted butter and water4 ,this dish is to be served cold4 ,,veal ,,scallop ,chop veal to a fine mince4 ,put into a baking-dish alternate layers of veal and bread crumbs1 sprinkling the meat with salt and pepper1 the crumbs with bits of butter4 ,over the top pour a white sauce made of one tablespoonful each of butter and flour1 and one cupful of milk4 ,spread over it a layer of crumbs1 and put in the oven to brown4 ,rice may be used instead of the crumbs1 and tomatoes instead of the white sauce4 ,,liver ,,and ,,bacon ,cut the liver into slices one half inch thick2 lay them in boiling water for a few minutes1 then dry and cover them with flour and a little pepper and salt4 ,lay in a hot frying-pan very thin slices of bacon4 ,when tried out enough for the bacon to be crisp1 remove it and put the slices of liver in the same frying pan4 ,cook until thoroughly done1 but not dried4 ,remove the liver1 and to the fat in the pan add a spoonful of flour2 when the flour is brown1 add enough water slowly to make a thick sauce4 ,pour the sauce over the liver1 and place the bacon around it4 ,liver is generally cut thin1 but it will be found much better when cut a half inch or more thick4 ,the bacon should be cut thin1 and cooked quickly2 the liver cut thick1 and cooked slowly4 ,,broiled ,,liver ,slice the liver4 ,let it soak in hot water a few minutes to draw out the blood4 ,dry it1 rub it with butter1 and broil five to eight minutes1 turning it constantly4 ,it should not be cooked until dry4 ,when done1 spread it with butter1 and serve at once4 ,,braised ,,liver ,use a calf's or lamb's liver4 ,lard it in two or three rows4 ,cut into dice one carrot1 one turnip1 one onion1 a stalk of celery1 and the bits left from the lardoons of salt pork2 put them in a baking pan1 and on this bed of vegetables place the larded liver4 ,add two cupfuls of stock or hot water1 and a bouquet of one sprig of parsley1 one bay-leaf1 and two cloves4 ,cover with another pan1 and cook in moderate oven for two hours2 baste occasionally4 ,serve with the vegetables from the pan1 on the same dish1 placed around the liver4 ,pour over the liver a sauce made as follows3 ,put in a saucepan one tablespoonful of butter2 when melted1 add one tablespoonful of flour1 and stir until browned2 then add slowly the strained liquor from the pan4 ,if there is not enough to make one cupful1 add water to make that quantity4 ,season with salt and pepper1 and add1 if convenient1 one tablespoonful each of ,worcestershire sauce and mushroom catsup4 ,,stewed ,,kidneys ,beef1 calf or lamb kidneys may be used4 ,be sure they are very fresh4 ,remove the fat and white center1 then soak them for one hour in salted water4 ,cut them in slices one half inch thick1 cover the slices with flour1 and saute them for five minutes in one tablespoonful of butter4 ,add to the frying-pan one thin slice of onion and one half cupful of water1 and simmer for ten minutes1 not longer4 ,the kidneys will be tough and hard if cooked too long4 ,just before serving1 add one quarter cupful of sherry2 salt and pepper to taste4 ,one tablespoon of ,worcestershire sauce may be used instead of the sherry4 ,,tripe ,soak the tripe for several hours1 then scrape it thoroughly clean1 put it in salted water1 and simmer it for three or four hours1 until it is like jelly4 ,drain off the water1 and put the tripe aside until ready to use4 ,put a tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan2 when hot add a tablespoonful of flour1 and cook for a few minutes1 but do not brown4 ,then add slowly one cupful of milk1 and stir until smooth4 ,add a half teaspoonful of salt1 a dash of pepper1 and a half teaspoonful of onion juice2 then add one cupful of the boiled tripe4 ,stir until the tripe is heated1 and serve immediately4 ,,calf',s ,,heart ,wash the heart1 but do not let it soak1 or stand in water4 ,fill it with a stuffing made of minced meat or of bread1 either one of them seasoned with onion1 sage1 thyme1 marjoram1 pepper and salt1 and an egg to bind it4 ,bake it for two hours1 basting it frequently with water from the pan4 ,when the heart is cooked remove it1 and add to the pan a tablespoonful of flour2 stir until it has browned4 ,then1 if there is not enough liquor in the pan1 add to it just enough water to make a thick sauce4 ,strain this over the heart1 and serve on the same dish some boiled and browned onions4 ,,beef',s ,,tongue ,if a smoked tongue is used1 soak it over night4 ,put it in cold water1 and let it come to the boiling point4 ,then simmer for four hours1 or until tender4 ,boil a fresh tongue in salted water one and a half hours4 ,a few soup vegetables may be added to the water if convenient4 ,before putting it in the water1 trim it carefully1 and skewer it into good shape4 ,when it is boiled remove the skin4 ,if it is to be used cold1 replace the skewer1 put it again in the water in which it was boiled1 and let it remain there until cold2 then cover it with a meat glaze colored red4 ,if served hot1 pour over it a white sauce1 and garnish with parsley and sliced pickle2 or serve with it a piquante sauce4 ,spinach is a good vegetable to serve with tongue4 ,,hot ,,sliced ,,tongue ,make a piquante sauce 7see page #bhc74 ,lay slices of boiled tongue cut one half inch thick into it1 and let them remain until well heated4 ,arrange the hot slices in a circle1 the slices overlapping1 and pour the sauce in the center4 ,garnish with capers1 slices of hard-boiled eggs1 and gherkins2 or make a form of spinach by pressing into a bowl well-chopped and seasoned spinach4 ,turn it on the center of a dish1 and lay the slices around or against it4 ,serve with piquante or with pickle sauce4 ,,cold ,,tongue ,lay thick slices of tongue in a circle1 the pieces overlapping4 ,place in the center a bunch of nasturtium blossoms and lettuce leaves4 ,serve with ,tartare or cold ,bearnaise sauce4 ,,jellied ,,tongue ,cut tongue into slices4 ,lay them together to look like a solid piece1 and place them in a square or brick-shaped mold4 ,sprinkle a few capers in the bottom of the mold before putting in the tongue4 ,have the mold only large enough for the tongue to fit in easily1 but be held in place4 ,fill with aspic jelly 7see page #cba74 ,,boiled ,,calf',s ,,head ,have the head split open1 and the gristle about the nose and eyes1 and the eyes and ears1 removed by the butcher4 ,wash thoroughly the head2 remove the tongue and brains2 parboil the brains1 and set them aside with the tongue to use on another occasion 7see page #cjg74 ,blanch the head by putting it into cold water2 when it comes to the boiling point1 pour off the hot water1 and cover it with cold water4 ,when cold1 rub it with lemon4 ,put it into boiling water1 enough to cover it2 add two tablespoonfuls of vinegar or white wine1 twelve peppercorns1 one bay-leaf1 one onion1 one carrot1 and a sprig of parsley4 ,cover the pot1 and let boil for two hours1 or until tender1 but not ready to fall apart4 ,when done1 take out the bones carefully1 and lay the meat on a baking dish in compact shape4 ,rub over the top with egg1 sprinkle it with bread crumbs and bits of butter1 and set in the oven to brown4 ,serve with it a ,poulette or an ,allemande sauce4 ,put any of the meat left over after being served in this manner into a mold2 fill it up with water in which the head was boiled2 season to taste4 ,this will make a jellied meat very good to use with salad4 ,the water from the pot will make a good soup4 7,see mock turtle soup47 ,four separate dishes can be made from one head1 viz43 boiled calf's head1 cold jellied calf's head1 mock turtle soup1 tongue and brains1 with white1 ,poulette1 or ,vinaigrette sauce4 ,,calf',s ,,head ,,with ,,vinaigrette ,,sauce ,after the calf's head is boiled as directed above1 take it from the water1 remove the meat1 and press it into a square mold or tin1 and let it get entirely cold4 ,it can then be cut into uniform pieces4 ,when ready to serve1 heat some of the liquor in which the head was boiled1 cut some long slices from the form of cold calf's head1 lay them in the hot liquor to become hot only4 ,remove them carefully1 and place them on a hot dish4 ,pour over them a ,vinaigrette sauce4 7,for sauce1 see page #cjg47 ,,pork ,salt pork and bacon should be kept always at hand2 the former for larding1 spreading in thin slices over baked meats1 poultry1 and birds1 and various other uses as directed in many receipts4 ,bacon is an appetizing accompaniment to many breakfast dishes4 ,fresh pork is used only in cold weather1 and must be thoroughly cooked4 ,,roast ,,pork ,the roasting pieces are the leg1 loin1 spare-rib1 and shoulder4 ,if the skin is left on cut it through in lines both ways1 forming small squares4 ,put a cupful of water in the pan with the meat2 bake in a moderate oven1 allowing twenty to twenty-five minutes to the pound4 ,pork must be thoroughly cooked4 ,serve with apple sauce or fried apples4 ,,fried ,,apples ,cut slices one half inch thick across the apple1 giving circles4 ,do not remove the skin or core4 ,or cut the apples in quarters1 leaving on the skin and removing the core4 ,saute the apples in butter or drippings until tender1 but not soft enough to lose form4 ,serve the fried apples on the same dish with pork as garnishing4 ,,pork ,,chops ,cut pork chops not more than one half inch thick4 ,trim off most of the fat1 dredge them with flour1 and saute them until thoroughly cooked1 and well browned4 ,it will take about twenty-five minutes4 ,serve with fried apples4 ,,boiled ,,ham ,soak the ham over night1 or for several hours4 ,thoroughly wash and scrape it4 ,put it into cold water2 let it come to the boiling point2 then simmer1 allowing twenty minutes to the pound4 ,pierce the ham with a fine skewer4 ,if done the skewer can be withdrawn easily without sticking4 ,let the ham partly cool in the water2 then remove and draw off the skin4 ,sprinkle the top plentifully with cracker crumbs and brown sugar1 or brush it with egg4 ,press into it a number of whole cloves1 and set it in the oven a few minutes to brown4 ,or the ham may be left white1 and dotted with pepper1 a clove stuck in the center of each spot of pepper4 ,soup vegetables and a bouquet of herbs boiled with a ham improve its flavor4 ,a ham boiled in cider is especially good4 ,trim the meat around the bone1 and conceal the bone with a paper frill or vegetable cut into shape of rose4 ,ornament the ham with dressed skewers1 or with parsley and lemon4 ,illustration3 ,,cold ,,ham ,,covered ,,with ,,chaudfroid ,,sauce ,,and ,,decorated ,,with ,,truffles ,,to ,,imitate ,,branches--,,ornament ,,on ,,top ,a ,,half-,,olive ,,surrounded ,,with ,,slices ,,of ,,pickle--,a ,,piece ,,of ,,the ,,ham-,,skin ,,left ,,on ,,the ,,bone ,,end ,,and ,,the ,,edge ,,of ,,the ,,skin ,,decorated ,,with ,,triangular ,,and ,,diamond-,,shaped ,,pieces ,,of ,,truffle--,,paper ,,frill ,,on ,,ham-,,bone--,,dish ,,garnished ,,with ,,lettuce1 ,,water-,,cress1 ,,or ,,parsley4 ,,baked ,,ham ,soak and prepare the ham as directed above4 ,let it simmer for two hours2 then remove it and take off the skin1 and bake it in a moderate oven for two hours2 baste it frequently1 using a cupful of sherry1 two spoonfuls at a time1 until all is used2 then baste with drippings from the pan4 ,when done1 cover it with a paste made of browned flour and brown sugar moistened with sherry1 and replace in the oven for a few minutes to brown4 ,,broiled ,,ham ,,and ,,eggs ,cut the ham very thin4 ,if very salt1 place it in boiling water for a few minutes4 ,then dry and broil it over hot coals for three or four minutes4 ,put a few pieces of salt pork into a frying pan4 ,when tried out1 add the eggs1 one at a time1 from a saucer4 ,baste the top of the eggs with fat from the pan4 ,let them brown a little on the edges1 but not blacken1 and serve them around the slices of ham4 ,boiled ham may be broiled4 ,if so1 cut it into thin1 small pieces1 and after broiling it1 place on each piece a fried egg4 ,,ham ,,and ,,eggs ,a ,l',,aurore ,chop fine some cold boiled ham4 ,boil six or eight eggs very hard 7see page #bfb74 ,with a sharp knife cut them in quarters lengthwise4 ,remove the yolks1 and press them through a coarse sieve or strainer2 lay the white segments in warm water4 ,make a white sauce1 using two tablespoonfuls of butter2 when melted1 add two tablespoonfuls of flour1 and let cook for a few minutes2 then add slowly two cupfuls of milk4 ,stir constantly1 and when a smooth1 consistent sauce1 season with salt and white pepper4 ,moisten the chopped ham with a little of the sauce1 and place it on the fire just long enough to become well heated4 ,stir constantly so the sauce will not brown4 ,make a smooth1 rounded mold of the ham in the center of a hot dish4 ,pour over it the white sauce4 ,sprinkle thickly over the top the yolk crumbs2 then range evenly around it the white segments of the eggs4 ,,bacon ,cut bacon very thin1 as shown on page #gh4 ,lay the slices on a hot frying-pan4 ,when clear turn them over4 ,tip the pan a little1 so the fat will run to one side4 ,if not wanted crisp and dry1 turn the slices before they look clear1 and remove before all the fat is tried out4 ,,chapter ,v ,,poultry ,,and ,,game ,,chickens ,to judge the age of a chicken1 touch the end of the breastbone4 ,if it is still cartilaginous1 and bends easily from side to side1 the meat of the chicken will be tender4 ,if the cartilage has hardened to bone1 the bird is over a year old1 and should be used only for the purposes which fowls serve4 ,the skin of the chicken should be firm1 smooth and white2 the feet soft1 the legs smooth and yellow1 the spurs small1 the eyes bright and full1 the comb red4 ,on young chickens there are pin-feathers2 on fowls1 there are long hairs4 ,the dry-picked chickens are preferable to those which are scalded4 ,it is not easy to find all the conditions right in our markets1 which are mostly supplied with frozen poultry1 and one is obliged to rely very much on the honesty of the poulterer4 ,chicken1 to be perfectly wholesome and good-flavored1 should be drawn as soon as killed2 but here again we are subject to the customs of our markets1 and are obliged to buy poultry which has not only been killed1 but undrawn1 for an indefinite time4 ,it is presumable1 however1 that poultry sent to market is frozen shortly after being killed1 and it does not deteriorate while frozen4 ,it should be drawn at once after it comes to the kitchen1 without waiting for the time to prepare it for cooking4 ,,to ,,clean ,,and ,,draw ,,poultry ,sidenote3 ,washing4 ,sidenote3 ,drawing the ,sinews4 ,first1 remove any pin-feathers2 then singe off the hairs4 ,this is done best over an alcohol flame4 ,put one or two tablespoonfuls of alcohol into a plate or saucer and ignite it4 7,wood alcohol is inexpensive1 and besides serving this purpose very well may be used also in the chafing-dish and tea-kettle lamps47 ,if alcohol is not at hand1 use lighted paper1 but take care not to smoke the chicken4 ,hold the fowl by the head and feet1 and turn it constantly1 exposing every part to the flame4 ,after singeing1 wash the outside of the chicken thoroughly with a cloth and bowl of water4 ,the skin will become several degrees whiter when freed from dust and the marks of much handling4 ,do not place the chicken in the bowl of water1 or at any time allow the meat to soak1 as that will extract its flavor4 ,after the chicken is drawn1 it should only be wiped out with a wet cloth4 ,if it is properly drawn there will be nothing unclean to wash away from the inside4 ,after the skin of the chicken is cleaned1 cut off the head1 cut the skin down the back of the neck1 turn it over while you remove carefully the crop and windpipe1 and cut off the neck close to the body1 leaving the skin to fold over the opening4 ,next take the leg1 bend it back slightly1 and carefully cut the skin on the joint1 just enough to expose the sinews without cutting them2 run a skewer or fork under them1 one at a time1 and draw them out2 five or eight of them can be easily removed after a little practice4 ,the one on the back of the leg is particularly large and strong4 ,these sinews are very tough and almost bony after cooking1 especially in turkeys1 but if they are removed the meat of the drumstick is quite as good as that of the second joint4 ,after the sinews are drawn1 break the leg off at the joint1 the sinews hanging to it4 ,cut a small opening under the rump2 run a finger around close to the body to loosen the entrails4 ,do the same at the neck opening4 ,carefully draw them out1 in one solid mass1 without any part being broken2 cut around the vent to free the large intestine4 ,if by any mischance the gall or intestines should be broken1 the inside of the chicken must be washed at once2 otherwise only wipe it out with a wet cloth1 as directed above4 ,cut the oil sack away from the rump4 ,cut the gall carefully off the liver2 cut the outer coat of the gizzard and draw it carefully away from the inner sack1 leaving the sack unbroken4 ,open the heart and wash away the clot of blood4 ,the heart1 liver1 and gizzard are the giblets4 ,all poultry and birds are dressed in the same way4 ,illustration3 ,,leg ,,of ,,chicken ,,with ,,sinews ,,drawn4 7,,see ,,page #ahj47 ,,to ,,bone ,a ,,fowl ,wash and singe the fowl2 take off the head and legs1 and remove the tendons as directed for drawing4 ,when a fowl is to be boned it is not drawn4 ,the work of boning is not difficult1 but requires care and a little practice4 ,the skin must not be broken4 ,use a small pointed knife2 cut the skin down the full length of the back2 then1 beginning at the neck1 carefully scrape the meat away from the bone1 keeping the knife close to the bone4 ,when the joints of the wings and legs are met1 break them back and proceed to free the meat from the carcass4 ,when one side is free1 turn the fowl and do the same on the other side4 ,the skin is drawn tightly over the breast-bone1 and care must be used to detach it without piercing the skin4 ,when the meat is free from the carcass1 remove the bones from the legs and wings1 turning the meat down or inside out1 as the bones are exposed1 and using care not to break the skin at the joints4 ,the end bones of the wings cannot be removed1 and the whole end joint may be cut off or left as it is4 ,,roasted ,,boned ,,chicken ,spread the boned chicken on a board1 the skin side down2 turn the flesh of the legs and wings right side out1 and stuff them with forcemeat into shape4 ,equalize the meat as well as possible1 placing the mignon fillets1 or little strips of white meat next the bone1 over the dark meat1 etc42 dredge with salt and pepper4 ,make a roll of the stuffing or forcemeat1 and lay it in the chicken4 ,draw the skin up1 and sew it together securely4 ,turn it over1 place the legs and wings into the position of a trussed fowl1 press the body into natural shape1 and tie it securely2 or it may be pressed into the form of a duck or rabbit4 ,cover with slices of salt pork1 and roast in oven1 allowing twenty minutes to the pound2 baste frequently4 ,remove the pork the last fifteen minutes1 dredge with flour1 and let it brown4 ,serve with a giblet or tomato sauce4 ,,braised ,,boned ,,chicken ,to braise the chicken prepared as above1 roll it lightly in a piece of cheese cloth1 tying the ends well4 ,put in a saucepan the bones of the chicken1 a slice of carrot and onion1 a bouquet containing parsley1 one bay-leaf1 three cloves1 twelve peppercorns1 celery if convenient1 and a knuckle of veal4 ,add enough water to cover the bed of vegetables and bones2 lay in the chicken2 cover the pot1 and let it simmer for four hours4 ,,jellied ,,boned ,,chicken ,a braised boned chicken may be served hot1 or it may be set aside to cool1 then jellied as follows3 ,strain the water in which the chicken was braised1 and let it cool2 then remove the grease and clarify the liquor2 season it highly4 ,if veal has been used1 and the liquor jellies1 it may be used as it is4 ,if veal has not been used1 add gelatine soaked in cold water1 observing the proportion of one box of gelatine to one and a half quarts of liquor4 ,mask a mold with jelly 7see page #cbc72 when the jelly is set1 put in the chicken1 and add enough liquid jelly to entirely cover it4 ,or1 on the bottom of the mold make a decoration of either truffles1 ham1 capers1 gherkins1 or any combinations suitable2 fix it with a thin layer of jelly2 when hardened1 add enough more to make a layer of jelly one quarter of an inch thick1 and when that is hardened lay in the chicken1 and surround it with the liquid jelly 7see molding jellies1 page #cbd74 ,garnish the dish on which the jellied chicken is served with lettuce1 and serve with it a ,mayonnaise1 ,bearnaise1 or ,tartare sauce4 ,when the chicken is to be jellied1 use enough water in the braising pot to give three pints of liquor after the cooking is done4 ,,forcemeat1 ,,for ,,stuffing ,,boned ,,fowls ,use the meat of another fowl1 or veal1 or pork1 or a mixture4 ,chop them fine1 and add to the minced meat one cupful of bread or cracker crumbs and1 if convenient1 a little chopped boiled ham or tongue1 and a few lardoons of pork4 ,season with the following articles1 and moisten the whole with stock3 #a tablespoonful of chopped parsley4 #a teaspoonful of onion juice4 #a_/d teaspoonful of pepper4 #a teaspoonful thyme4 #a teaspoonful of salt4 ,if veal is used1 take it from the knuckle1 and use the bone in the braising pot1 as it will give a good jelly4 ,,to ,,truss ,a ,,fowl ,when the fowl is wiped1 singed1 and drawn as by directions given above1 put in the stuffing if it is to be used2 place a little in the opening at the neck1 the rest in the body1 and sew up the opening4 ,draw the skin of the neck smoothly down and under the back1 press the wings close against the body1 and fold the pinions under1 crossing the back and holding down the skin of the neck4 ,press the legs close to the body1 and slip them under the skin as much as possible4 ,thread the trussing needle with white twine1 using it double4 ,press the needle through the wing by the middle joint1 pass it through the skin of the neck and back1 and out again at the middle joint of the other wing4 ,return the needle through the bend of the leg at the second joint1 through the body and out at the same point on the other side2 draw the cord tight1 and tie it with the end at the wing joint4 ,thread the needle again1 and run it through the legs and body at the thigh bone1 and back at the ends of the drumsticks4 ,draw the drumstick bones close together1 covering the opening made for drawing the fowl1 and tie the ends4 ,have both knots on the same side of the fowl4 ,when cooked1 cut the cord on the opposite side1 and by the knots it can easily be drawn out4 7,see illustration47 ,illustration3 ,,trussed ,,chicken4 7,,see ,,page #ahc47 ,illustration3 ,,back ,,of ,,trussed ,,chicken4 ,,roasted ,,chicken ,a roasted chicken may be stuffed or not4 ,if stuffing is used it should only half fill the chicken4 ,truss it as directed above1 or use skewers1 doubling a cord across the back and around the ends of the skewers to hold them in place4 ,a roasted or boiled chicken is not presentable1 which has not been securely fastened into good shape before being cooked4 ,dredge the chicken with salt and pepper1 and place it on slices of salt pork in a baking pan2 add a very little water1 and bake in hot oven1 allowing fifteen minutes to the pound2 baste frequently4 ,white meat must be well cooked1 but not dried4 ,fifteen minutes before it is done1 rub it over the top and sides with butter1 dredge it with flour1 and replace it in the oven until it becomes a golden brown and looks crisp4 ,draw out the trussing cords1 and garnish with parsley4 ,serve with it a giblet sauce4 ,do not use a tough chicken for roasting2 one a year old is about right4 ,a roasting chicken may be larded if desired4 ,,stuffing ,,for ,,fowls ,moisten a cupful of bread-crumbs with a tablespoonful of melted butter2 season highly with salt1 pepper1 thyme1 chopped parsley1 and onion juice2 or put in a saucepan a tablespoonful of butter and fry in it one minced onion2 then add one cupful of soaked bread1 the water being pressed out1 one half cupful of stock1 one teaspoonful of salt1 one half teaspoonful each of pepper and thyme1 and one half cupful of celery cut into small pieces4 ,stir it until it leaves the sides of the pan4 ,,chestnut ,,stuffing ,shell a quart of large ,french chestnuts4 ,put them in hot water and boil until the skins are softened2 then drain off the water and remove the skins4 ,replace the blanched chestnuts in water1 and boil until soft4 ,take out a few at a time1 and press them through a colander or a potato press4 ,they mash more easily when hot4 ,season the mashed chestnuts with a tablespoonful of butter1 a teaspoonful of salt1 and a quarter of a teaspoonful of pepper4 ,some cooks add a tablespoonful of chopped parsley1 and moisten it with a little stock4 ,some add1 also1 a few bread crumbs4 ,the dressing is best seasoned only with butter1 salt1 and pepper4 ,,giblet ,,sauce ,boil the giblets until tender2 chop them1 but not very fine2 add a tablespoonful of flour to the pan in which the chicken was roasted2 let it brown1 stirring constantly2 add slowly a cupful of water in which the giblets were boiled2 season with salt and pepper2 strain and add the chopped giblets2 serve in a sauceboat4 ,the liver is a tidbit1 and should be roasted and served with the chicken1 instead of being used in the sauce4 ,,boiled ,,chicken ,a chicken too old to roast is very good when boiled4 ,truss the chicken firmly4 ,it is well also to tie it in a piece of cheese-cloth1 to keep it in good shape4 ,it may be stuffed or not4 ,boiled rice seasoned with butter1 pepper1 and salt1 or celery cut in small pieces1 is better to use for boiled chicken than bread stuffing4 ,put the chicken into boiling salted water and simmer1 allowing twenty minutes to the pound2 when done1 remove the cloth and cords carefully1 spread a little white sauce over the breast1 and sprinkle it with chopped parsley4 ,garnish with parsley1 and serve with it egg1 oyster1 or ,bearnaise sauce4 ,,braised ,,chicken ,a fowl too old to roast may be made tender and good by braising1 and present the same appearance as a roasted chicken4 ,prepare it as for roasting1 trussing it into good shape4 ,cut into dice a carrot1 turnip1 onion1 and stalk of celery2 put them in a pot with a few slices of salt pork1 and on them place the fowl1 with a few pieces of salt pork laid over the breast2 add a bouquet of parsley1 one bay-leaf1 three cloves1 six peppercorns1 also a teaspoonful of salt1 and a pint of hot water4 ,cover the pot closely and let simmer for three hours4 ,if any steam escapes1 a little more water may have to be added4 ,when done1 rub a little butter over the breast1 dredge with flour1 and place in the oven a few minutes to brown4 ,strain the liquor from the braising pot1 season to taste1 and if necessary thicken with a little brown roux2 serve it with the chicken as sauce4 ,,broiled ,,chicken ,young spring chickens only are used for broiling4 ,split them down the back1 remove the entrails and the breast bone1 wipe them clean1 sprinkle with salt and pepper1 and rub them with soft butter4 ,place them on a broiler over a slow fire1 the inside down2 cover with a pan1 and let cook for twenty to twenty-five minutes4 ,turn1 to let the skin side brown when nearly done4 ,place them on a hot dish1 and spread them with maitre d'hotel butter2 garnish with parsley or watercress and thin slices of lemon4 ,,fricassee ,cut a chicken into eleven pieces3 two drumsticks1 two second joints1 two wings1 two breasts1 three back pieces4 ,put the pieces in a saucepan with two tablespoonfuls of butter or drippings2 let them brown slightly on both sides1 but use care that they do not burn2 when a little colored1 add enough boiling water to cover them2 add a bouquet of herbs1 salt and pepper1 and a few slices of salt pork4 ,simmer until tender4 ,arrange the pieces neatly on a dish1 using the best ones outside1 and pour over them a gravy made as follows3 ,strain the liquor from the pot and take off the fat4 ,make a white roux of one tablespoonful of butter and two of flour2 add to it slowly a cupful of the liquor from the pot2 season to taste2 remove from the fire1 and when a little cool add a cupful of cream or milk beaten up with two or three yolks of eggs4 ,place again on the fire until the eggs are a little thickened1 but do not let it boil1 or they will curdle4 ,a tablespoonful of sherry may be added1 if liked1 or a half can of mushrooms4 ,a border of rice may be placed around the chicken1 or softened toast used under the chicken4 ,to make a brown fricassee1 sprinkle the pieces of chicken1 after they are simmered until tender1 with salt1 pepper1 and flour1 and place them in the oven to brown4 ,make a brown instead of a white roux1 and omit the cream or milk4 ,,fried ,,chicken ,cut a tender chicken in pieces2 dip the pieces in water2 sprinkle them with salt and pepper1 and roll them in flour2 saute them in a tablespoonful of lard or butter1 browning both sides2 then remove and add to the pan a tablespoonful of flour2 cook it for a minute without browning1 stirring all the time1 and add a cupful of milk or cream2 stir until it is a little thickened2 strain2 mix into it a tablespoonful of chopped parsley4 ,place the sauce on the serving-dish and arrange the pieces of chicken on it4 ,,chicken ,,fritters ,cut cold cooked chicken or turkey off the bones in as large pieces as possible2 sprinkle with salt and pepper2 dip them in fritter batter 7see page #dbf71 and fry in hot fat until a golden brown4 ,place the pieces when fried on a brown paper until all are done2 dress them on a folded napkin1 and serve with a ,bearnaise1 ,mayonnaise1 or ,tartare sauce4 ,the pieces may be rolled in egg and bread crumbs instead of being dipped in batter1 if preferred4 ,,stuffed ,,chicken ,,or ,,turkey ,,legs ,carefully remove the tendons from the drumsticks as directed in drawing 7page #ahj72 remove the bone1 all but about an inch and a half at the small end1 and remove any remaining sinews4 ,stuff the leg with a forcemeat made of chicken or veal chopped very fine1 and use with it the liver and a little strip of larding pork2 season it with salt1 pepper1 and chopped parsley1 and moisten it with one egg4 ,draw the skin over the end and sew it closely together1 keeping the shape as natural as possible4 ,lay the stuffed legs in a baking-pan2 cover with boiling water1 and simmer an hour1 or until tender2 remove them from the water1 press them into shape1 and let cool4 ,when cold1 take out the stitches1 dredge with salt and pepper1 roll in beaten egg and bread crumbs1 and fry in hot fat until browned2 or broil them on both sides four minutes1 if chicken2 six minutes1 if turkey legs2 or they may be sauted in butter4 ,they may be deviled by rubbing them with mustard and a little red pepper before coating with the eggs and crumbs4 ,serve them arranged like chops1 the bones masked with paper frills4 ,if preferred1 the bones may be entirely removed1 and the leg flattened to look like a cutlet4 ,this can be done by placing them under a weight to cool after being boiled4 ,serve with an olive1 ,bearnaise1 ,tartare1 or any sauce preferred4 ,,grilled ,,bones ,take the wings1 second joints1 and drumsticks of cold cooked chicken2 dip them in melted butter1 sprinkle them with salt and pepper1 and broil them until they are very hot and well browned4 ,,chicken ,a ,,la ,,vienne ,split a small spring chicken down the back1 as for broiling2 remove the breast bone2 then cut it into four pieces1 giving two breast and two leg pieces1 cut off the pinions2 marinate the pieces in oil1 vinegar1 pepper1 and salt2 then roll in flour1 and fry in hot fat1 one piece at a time2 drain and place on paper in the open oven until all are done4 ,they should be a light golden color4 ,place a paper frill on the leg and wing bones1 and dress them on a folded napkin4 ,serve with ,tartare sauce2 or arrange the pieces overlapping on a dish1 and garnish with four lettuce leaves holding ,tartare sauce4 ,,chicken1 ,,baltimore ,,style ,split a small spring chicken down the back as for broiling2 remove the breast-bone and cut off the pinions4 ,cut into four pieces2 dredge with salt and pepper2 dip them in egg and fresh crumbs4 ,place them in a pan1 and pour over each piece enough melted butter to moisten it2 then roast in the oven eighteen to twenty minutes4 ,make a cream sauce1 taking one cupful of ,bechamel sauce1 and adding to it a half cupful of cream and a half tablespoonful of butter4 ,pour this sauce on a dish1 and place the pieces of chicken on it4 ,garnish with slices of fried bacon4 ,,chicken ,,imperial ,cut the breast from a chicken1 retaining it in shape on the bone4 ,remove the skin1 and lard the breast on each side with four lardoons4 ,place it in a deep saucepan2 cover with stock or boiling water1 and simmer for thirty to forty minutes1 or until tender4 ,then remove from the water1 and place in oven for ten minutes to take a very light color4 ,make a sauce as follows3 ,put into a saucepan one half cupful of the stock in which the breast was boiled1 and one half cupful of cream4 ,let it come to the scalding point2 season with salt and pepper and one tablespoonful of chopped parsley4 ,remove from fire1 and stir in slowly two yolks and two tablespoonfuls of milk beaten together4 ,stir constantly until thickened1 but do not let boil1 or the egg will curdle4 ,strain and pour it around the breast4 ,the breast should be carved diagonally1 giving three pieces on each side4 ,illustration3 ,,chicken ,,imperiale ,,and ,,stuffed ,,legs4 7,,see ,,pages #ahh ,,and #ahi47 ,,chicken ,,breasts ,,with ,,poulette ,,sauce ,remove the breasts from several chickens2 cut them lengthwise1 each breast giving four pieces4 ,simmer them in salted water until tender4 ,make a ,poulette sauce 7see page #bhj71 and pour over the breasts piled on a dish4 ,sprinkle with parsley chopped very fine4 ,use a generous amount of sauce4 ,,chicken ,,chartreuse ,mix one cupful of cooked chicken minced very fine with #a teaspoonful of chopped parsley1 #a_/b teaspoonful of onion juice1 #a_/d teaspoonful of salt1 #b tablespoonfuls of tomato juice1 #a beaten egg1 ,dash of pepper4 ,grease well a charlotte russe or pudding mold2 line it one inch thick with boiled rice4 ,fill the center with the chicken mixture1 and cover the top with rice1 so the chicken is entirely encased1 and the mold is full and even4 ,cover and cook in steamer for forty-five minutes4 ,serve with it a tomato sauce2 pour a little of the sauce on the dish around the form1 not over it4 ,illustration3 ,,chartreuse ,,of ,,chicken ,,garnished ,,with ,,slice ,,of ,,hard-,,boiled ,,egg ,,and ,,parsley4 7,,see ,,pages #hc ,,and #aij47 ,,chicken ,,souffle #a tablespoonful of butter4 #a tablespoonful of flour4 #a tablespoonful of chopped parsley4 #a cupful of milk4 #a cupful of minced chicken4 #a_/b teaspoonful of salt4 #c eggs4 #aj drops of onion juice4 ,dash of pepper4 ,make a white sauce by putting the butter in a saucepan or double boiler4 ,when melted add the flour1 and cook a moment without browning4 ,then add slowly the milk1 and stir till smooth4 ,season with salt1 pepper1 parsley1 and onion juice4 ,there should be one cupful of the sauce4 ,remove from the fire1 and stir in the beaten yolks of three eggs2 then add a cupful of chicken chopped fine4 ,stir the mixture over the fire a minute until the egg has a little thickened2 then set aside to cool4 ,rub a little butter over the top1 so it will not form a crust4 ,when time to serve beat very stiff the whites of the three eggs1 and stir them lightly into the cold chicken mixture4 ,put it into a pudding dish1 and bake in hot oven for twenty minutes4 ,serve at once in the same dish4 ,this is a souffle1 so the whites of the eggs must not be added until it is time for it to go into the oven1 and it will fall if not served immediately after it comes from the oven4 ,this dish may be made with any kind of meat4 ,chicken souffle may be baked in paper boxes1 and served as an entree4 ,,chicken ,,loaf ,boil a fowl until the meat falls from the bones4 ,strain1 and put the liquor again in the saucepan2 reduce it to one and a half pints1 and add one quarter box of soaked gelatine4 ,lay a few slices of hard-boiled egg on the bottom of a plain mold2 fill the mold with alternate layers of white and dark meat of the chicken4 ,season the liquor1 and pour it over the meat in the mold1 and set it away to harden2 it will become a jelly4 ,it is a good dish to use with salad for luncheon or supper4 ,,chicken ,,chaudfroid ,cut cold cooked chicken into as neat and uniform pieces as possible2 remove the skin2 make a chaudfroid sauce as directed on page #bha4 ,mix the sauce thoroughly1 and let it cool enough to thicken1 but not harden4 ,roll each piece of chicken in this sauce until well coated4 ,range the pieces without touching in a pan1 the ends resting on the raised edge2 place the pan on ice until the sauce is set4 ,make a socle 7see page #cbf7 of bread or rice2 rub it with butter1 and mask it with chopped parsley4 ,arrange the pieces of chicken around the socle1 resting them against it2 then with a brush coat them over lightly with clear chicken aspic which is cold1 but still liquid4 ,ornament the top of socle with a star of aspic1 or with a bunch of nasturtium1 or other blossoms or leaves4 ,garnish the dish with aspic1 with flowers1 or leaves2 or1 if socle is not used1 pile the pieces in pyramidal form and garnish4 ,serve with it a ,mayonnaise1 ,bearnaise1 or ,tartare sauce2 or some of the chaudfroid sauce diluted4 ,,chicken ,,mayonnaise ,cut cold cooked chicken into pieces2 remove the skin1 and trim the pieces into good shape4 ,cover each piece with jelly ,mayonnaise 7page #bij71 and leave them in a cool place until the ,mayonnaise has set4 ,trim them and dress them around an ornamented socle or a mound of salad1 or lay each piece on a leaf of lettuce4 ,garnish with aspic or with flowers4 ,use a green1 white1 or yellow ,mayonnaise2 and keep in cold place until ready to serve4 ,,english ,,chicken ,,pie 7,,cold7 ,take two tender chickens1 and cut them up as for frying4 ,put them into a large saucepan with two and a half quarts of water2 add a bouquet made of sweet marjoram1 basil1 parsley1 three bay-leaves1 sprig of thyme1 and small blade of mace4 ,let them simmer until well cooked4 ,add to the pot when the chicken is about half done one half pound of bacon cut into small pieces like lardoons4 ,wash the bacon before adding it4 ,a quarter of an hour before removing the chicken add the half of a small can of truffles cut into slices4 ,boil eight eggs very hard1 and cut them in slices4 ,arrange on the bottom of an earthen dish a layer of egg slices and truffles1 then a layer of chicken meat2 alternate the layers until the dish is two-thirds full4 ,return the bones and coarse pieces of meat to the pot1 and reduce the liquid one third4 ,strain1 cool1 and remove the grease4 ,return the stock to the fire1 add a quarter box or one half ounce of soaked gelatine4 ,pour this over the chicken4 ,when it has jellied and is ready to serve1 place on the top a crust of puff paste1 which has been cut to fit the dish1 and has been baked separately4 ,,turkey ,the rules given for dressing and cooking chickens apply also to turkeys4 ,turkey can be substituted for chicken in any of the receipts given4 ,a young turkey will have smooth black legs and white skin4 ,sidenote3 ,general ,directions4 ,fifteen minutes to the pound is the time allowed for roasting or boiling a young turkey2 for an old one more time will be required4 ,they should have slow cooking and frequent basting4 ,after a turkey is trussed1 wet the skin2 dredge it well with salt and pepper1 and then with a thick coating of flour4 ,this will give a crisp brown crust4 ,,turkey ,,galantine ,,or ,,boned ,,turkey ,select a young fat hen turkey4 ,bone it as directed1 page #aha2 spread the boned meat on the table1 the skin side down4 ,equalize the meat as well as possible by paring it off at the thick parts1 and laying it on the thin parts4 ,leave the legs and wings drawn inside2 lay a few lardoons of salt pork on the meat lengthwise4 ,make a forcemeat of another fowl or of veal1 or of both chicken and veal4 ,chop it to a very fine mince1 and pound it in a mortar to make it almost a paste4 ,season it with salt and pepper1 savory1 marjoram1 thyme1 and sage--about a half teaspoonful each of the herbs--one teaspoonful of onion juice1 a half cupful of cold boiled tongue cut into dice1 some truffles cut into large pieces4 ,moisten it with stock and mix thoroughly4 ,it will take three or four pounds of meat1 according to the size of the turkey1 to make sufficient stuffing4 ,spread the forcemeat on the boned turkey1 having the tongue1 truffles1 and a few pieces of both the white and dark meat of the turkey well interspersed through it4 ,roll up the turkey1 making it as even as possible1 and sew it together2 then roll it in a piece of cheesecloth and tie it securely at both ends and around the roll in several places4 ,place the galantine and the bones of the fowl in a kettle1 with an onion1 carrot1 celery1 bouquet of herbs1 and a tablespoonful of salt4 ,cover it with boiling water1 and let simmer three or four hours2 then remove it from the fire2 let the galantine remain in the water for an hour2 then take it out1 cut the strings which bind it in the middle1 draw the cloth so it will be tight and smooth1 and place it under a weight until perfectly cold4 ,a baking-pan holding two flatirons will answer the purpose4 ,remove the cloth carefully1 set the galantine in the oven a moment to melt the fat1 and wipe it off with a cloth2 trim it smooth2 then brush it over with glaze 7see page #bgg71 or rub it over with beaten egg and sprinkle with crumbs and brown in the oven2 or1 cover it with a chaudfroid sauce1 and ornament it as shown in illustration4 ,the ornament of cut truffles is applied by taking each piece on a long pin and placing it on the chaudfroid before it is quite set4 ,when perfectly set it is brushed over lightly with a little liquid jelly4 ,galantine of chicken or game is made in the same way1 except that in small pieces they are not flattened by being put under a weight4#aid-99 ,a galantine is always used cold4 ,garnish with aspic4 ,the water in which it was boiled--strained and cleared--may be used for the aspic4 ,use a box of gelatine to one and a half quarts of liquor4 ,illustration3 ,,galantine ,,of ,,turkey ,,covered ,,with ,,chaudfroid ,,sauce ,,and ,,decorated ,,with ,,truffles4 7,,see ,,pages #aic1 #bha ,,and #cbf47 ,,footnotes3 #aid-99 ,a rectangular-shaped galantine may be obtained by pressing it into a bread-tin to cool4 ,it should then be trimmed and incased in aspic1 using the same or a slightly larger bread-tin of the same shape4 ,see ,molding1 page #cbc4--,m4 ,r4 ,,roast ,,goose ,green geese about four months old are the best1 as they get very tough when much older4 ,if there is any doubt about the age of the goose1 it is better to braise than to roast it4 ,it can be browned after it is braised1 and have the same appearance as if roasted4 ,dress and truss a goose the same as a turkey2 singe and wash the skin well2 flatten the breast bone by striking it with a rolling-pin4 ,stuff it only partly full with mashed potato highly seasoned with onion1 sage1 salt1 and pepper1 or with a mixture of bread1 apples1 onions1 sage1 salt and pepper1 and a little butter4 ,dredge the goose with salt1 pepper1 and a thick coating of flour2 put a little water in the pan and baste frequently4 ,allow eighteen minutes to the pound for a young goose1 twenty-five minutes for an older one4 ,serve with goose apple sauce and a brown giblet gravy4 ,,tame ,,ducks ,prepare the same as geese4 ,stuff with the same mixture or with celery4 ,roast ducklings in a hot oven twenty minutes1 if liked rare2 thirty minutes if they are to be cooked through4 ,old ducks require an hour to cook1 and should be basted frequently4 ,pekin ducks1 a breed of white ducks raised in quantities on ,long ,island1 are especially esteemed4 ,,game ,,canvasbacks ,,and ,,redhead ,,ducks ,carefully pick1 singe1 and wipe the outside4 ,draw them1 leaving on the head1 so as to distinguish them from ordinary game4 ,cut an opening at the neck1 and through it draw the head and neck1 letting the head emerge at the back between the drumsticks1 and tie it securely in place4 ,do not wash the inside4 ,if carefully drawn they will not need it4 ,cut off the wings at the second joint4 ,truss the ducks neatly4 ,sprinkle with salt and pepper inside1 and a teaspoonful of currant jelly may also be put inside4 ,place them in a baking-pan with a little water1 and bake in a very hot oven from fifteen to eighteen minutes2 baste frequently4 ,wild ducks should be very rare and served very hot1 on hot plates4 ,each duck makes but two portions1 as the breast only is served4 ,serve with duck small pieces of fried hominy and currant jelly4 ,the ,canvasback is superior in flavor to any other species of wild duck1 and is much esteemed4 ,they have a purple head and silver breast1 and are in season from ,september to ,may4 ,the ,redhead closely resembles in flavor the ,canvasback1 and often is mistaken for it4 ,,salmi ,,of ,,duck ,,or ,,game ,cut the game into neat pieces2 put them in the oven for five minutes to start the juices4 ,put in a saucepan one tablespoonful of butter1 one half pound of bacon or salt pork cut into dice1 one tablespoonful each of chopped onion and carrot1 twelve peppercorns1 one saltspoonful each of salt1 thyme1 and sage1 and any coarse pieces of the game4 ,cover with a greased paper and let cook to a glaze2 then add a tablespoonful of flour1 and let it brown2 then two cupfuls of stock2 simmer for thirty minutes2 strain2 add one quarter cupful of ,madeira and the pieces of game2 cover and let simmer another thirty minutes4 ,this dish needs long1 slow cooking and careful watching4 ,garnish with croutons and truffles4 ,the truffles should be added to the salmi a few minutes before it is removed from the fire4 ,if cooked game is used for the salmi1 simmer for ten minutes only after the pieces are added to the sauce4 ,,potted ,,pigeons 7,dark ,meat7 ,unless pigeons are young they should be braised or stewed in broth4 ,truss them carefully2 place slices of bacon on the bottom of a stew-pan2 lay in the pigeons side by side1 their breasts up2 add a carrot and onion cut into dice1 a teaspoonful of sugar1 and some parsley1 and pour over enough stock or boiling water to cover them4 ,cover the pot closely4 ,let them simmer until they are tender1 adding boiling water or stock when necessary4 ,serve each pigeon on a thin piece of moistened buttered toast4 ,,roast ,,pigeons ,,or ,,squabs ,do not roast pigeons unless they are young and tender4 ,after they are well trussed1 or tied into shape1 tie thin slices of bacon over the breasts1 and put a little piece of butter inside each pigeon4 ,boast them about fifteen minutes2 baste them with butter4 ,or split the pigeons in two through the back and breast1 cover with thin slices of salt pork1 and roast them in the oven4 ,thicken the gravy in the pan with a little cornstarch4 ,season and moisten with it slices of toast on which the half pigeons will be served4 ,,prairie-,,chicken ,,or ,,grouse ,,roasted 7,dark ,meat7 ,grouse1 like all game1 should not be too fresh4 ,wash them on the outside only1 the same as directed for chicken 7page #aha74 ,put a little butter inside each bird and truss them into good shape4 ,roast them in a hot oven twenty-five to thirty minutes1 basting them frequently with melted butter4 ,five minutes before removing them dredge them with flour4 ,boil the liver of the grouse1 pound it with a little butter1 pepper1 and salt to a paste2 spread it over hot buttered toast moistened with juice from the pan4 ,serve the grouse on the toast4 ,prairie-chickens have dark meat1 and many epicures declare that they should be cooked quite as rare as canvasback ducks and that their flavor when so served is unsurpassed4 ,young prairie-chickens have a much lighter meat and need not be so rare4 ,,quails ,,roasted 7,white ,meat7 ,draw the birds carefully4 ,wipe them inside and out with a damp cloth2 do not wash them more than this4 ,truss them carefully1 letting the legs stand up instead of down1 as with a chicken4 ,tie around each one a thin slice of pork or bacon4 ,bake in a hot oven fifteen to twenty minutes4 ,baste frequently1 having in the pan a little butter1 hot water1 salt1 and pepper4 ,serve on slices of toast moistened with juice from the pan4 ,,quails ,,broiled ,split them down the back4 ,broil over hot coals four minutes on each side4 ,baste them while broiling with a little butter4 ,when they are done spread them with butter1 salt1 and pepper2 place them on slices of slightly moistened toast1 and stand them in the oven a few minutes to soak the butter4 ,,snipe ,,and ,,woodcock 7,dark ,meat7 ,draw the birds carefully4 ,wipe inside and out with a wet cloth1 but do not wash more than this1 as it takes away their flavor4 ,cut off the feet1 and skin the lower legs1 which can be done after holding them a minute in scalding water4 ,skin the head1 and take out the eyes4 ,press the bird well together2 draw around the head1 and run the bill like a skewer through the legs and body4 ,wrap each one in a thin slice of pork or bacon1 and bake in a hot oven for ten minutes2 baste with butter4 ,chop or pound the hearts and livers to a paste4 ,season with salt1 pepper1 onion juice1 and butter4 ,spread the paste on slices of toast just large enough to hold one bird4 ,place the croustades in the oven to become very hot4 ,pour over them the juice from the dripping-pan holding the birds4 ,place the birds on the toast1 and serve at once4 ,garnish the dish with water-cress4 ,the croustades are better fried than toasted4 ,,roasted ,,and ,,broiled ,,partridge 7,white ,meat7 ,dress and truss the partridge the same as a chicken4 ,lard the breast1 or cover it with a slice of salt pork4 ,put into the baking-pan with the bird one tablespoonful of butter1 and two of boiling water4 ,roast in a hot oven about forty minutes1 basting frequently4 ,the partridge has white meat1 and so needs to be thoroughly cooked1 but not dried4 ,place the bird on a hot dish1 and around it on the same dish a border of coarse bread-crumbs1 which have been thoroughly mixed in a saucepan with a tablespoonful of melted butter4 ,serve in a sauce-boat a white sauce or a bread sauce4 ,if the partridge is to be broiled split it down the back1 rub it well with butter1 place the inside next the coals2 cover and broil for twenty-five minutes4 ,keep it well moistened with butter1 and turn it to brown on the skin side a few minutes before done4 ,sprinkle with salt and pepper1 and serve on buttered toast4 ,,venison ,venison is prepared and cooked the same as mutton4 ,the roasting pieces are the saddle1 and haunch or leg4 ,it should be cooked underdone1 allowing ten minutes to the pound4 ,serve with it currant jelly sauce and salad4 ,,venison ,,steak ,a venison steak is cooked in the same manner as a beefsteak4 ,a little melted currant jelly is served on the same dish1 or as a sauce 7see page #bhg74aii-99 ,,footnotes3 #aii-99 ,the steak should be moistened with the sauce so it will have a glazed appearance4 ,,chapter ,,vi ,,vegetables ,sidenote3 ,general ,directions4 ,the simplest way of cooking vegetables is usually the best2 but all kinds need seasoning or to be served with a sauce4 ,they should be cooked only until tender4 ,the time depends upon their freshness4 ,the same vegetable sometimes takes twice the time to cook when wilted4 ,they should be well washed in cold water to remove all dust and insects1 and if wilted1 should stand some time in it to refresh them4 ,green vegetables are put into salted boiling water1 and cooked rapidly in an uncovered saucepan4 ,this will preserve their color4 ,overcooking destroys both their color and appearance4 ,when done they should be removed from the water at once and be well drained before the seasoning is added4 ,sidenote3 ,serving4 ,one vegetable only besides potato is served with a meat course1 but cauliflower1 stuffed tomatoes1 asparagus1 green corn1 egg-plant1 artichokes1 or mushrooms may be served as a separate course4 ,sidenote3 ,canned ,vegetables ,when using canned vegetables1 turn them onto a sieve or colander1 and let water from the faucet run over them in order to remove the taste of the can which they sometimes have4 ,illustration3 ,,vegetable ,,cutters4 #a4 ,plane for cutting ,saratoga ,potatoes4 #b4 ,potato ,press for making potato rice4 #c4 ,fluted knives for potato straws or fluted slices1 and for potato curls4 #d4 ,potato scoops for cutting balls4 ,,boiled ,,potatoes ,wash the potatoes well2 take off only a thin paring1 and drop them at once into cold water to prevent their discoloring4 ,have them of uniform size1 or cut the larger ones into pieces the size of the small ones1 so they will all be cooked at the same time1 for after a potato is cooked it rapidly absorbs water and becomes soggy4 ,if the potatoes are old or withered1 put them on to cook in cold water2 if fresh and firm1 put them into boiling salted water1 and boil slowly about thirty minutes1 or until they can be easily pierced with a fork4 ,then at once drain off every drop of water2 shake them in the pot a moment to expose all sides to the air2 sprinkle with a little salt2 cover the pot with a double cloth1 and place it on the back of the range for a few minutes to evaporate all the moisture4 ,if treated in this way the potatoes will be dry and mealy4 ,violent boiling is likely to break the outside surface and make them ragged in appearance4 ,new potatoes are boiled with the skins on4 ,,mashed ,,potatoes ,after the potatoes are boiled and dried as directed above1 mash them at once over the fire and in the same pot in which they were boiled1 so that they will lose no heat4 ,season them with salt1 butter1 and cream or milk2 heat the milk and butter together2 add them slowly1 and beat the potatoes well with a fork or an egg-beater until they are very light and white4 ,turn them into a hot dish4 ,do not smooth the top4 ,,potato ,,cakes ,mashed potato left over may be used for cakes4 ,add an egg to a cupful and a half of potato and beat them well together until light2 form it into cakes or balls2 roll them in flour and saute in butter1 or spread the mixture in a layer one inch thick2 cut it into strips or squares and saute2 or put it into a well-buttered border mold2 cover with greased paper1 and bake for half an hour in a moderate oven4 ,let it stand in the mold for ten minutes2 then turn onto a dish1 and fill the center with any mince or with creamed fish4 ,mashed potato without egg will not hold its form when molded4 ,,potato ,,rice ,press well-seasoned mashed potatoes through a colander or a potato press onto the center of a dish1 leaving the little flakes lightly piled up4 ,serve chops or minced meat around the mound of potato4 ,,potato ,,souffle ,to two cupfuls of smooth1 well-seasoned1 and quite moist mashed potatoes add the yolks of two eggs4 ,when a little cooled stir in lightly the whites of two eggs beaten very stiff4 ,put the whole into a pudding-dish1 and brown it in a quick oven4 ,,potato ,,roses ,to two cupfuls of well-seasoned mashed potatoes1 add the yolks of two eggs and white of one1 and beat them well together4 ,place it in a pastry bag with a tube having a star-shaped opening 7see illustration71 and press it through4 ,as the potato comes from the tube1 guide it in a circle1 winding it around until it comes to a point4 ,the little piles of potato will resemble roses4 ,touch them lightly with a brush dipped in egg1 and place a bit of butter on each one4 ,put them in the oven a moment to brown slightly4 ,the edges touched by the egg will take a deeper color4 ,potato roses make a good garnish for meat dishes4 ,illustration3 ,,potato ,,roses4 7,,see ,,page #bjb47 ,,potato ,,croquettes ,to two cupfuls of well-seasoned mashed potatoes add the beaten yolks of two eggs1 a tablespoonful of chopped parsley1 one and a half tablespoonfuls of butter 7if none has been used in seasoning71 a dash of cayenne and nutmeg2 stir over the fire until the potato leaves the sides of the pan4 ,when cold1 form it into small croquettes1 roll them in egg and bread-crumbs and fry them in hot fat to an amber color4 ,serve on a napkin 7see frying croquettes1 page #bid74 ,the croquette mixture may be made into balls enclosing minced meat4 ,when used in this way serve with it a white sauce4 ,,potato ,,balls ,with a potato scoop 7see illustration7 cut balls out of peeled raw potatoes1 and drop them in cold water for half an hour4 ,put them into salted boiling water and boil for fifteen minutes1 or until tender2 drain off the water2 cover with a cloth and let stand on the back of the range until dry4 ,serve them on a napkin1 or pour over them white sauce1 and sprinkle with parsley1 or use them as a garnish4 ,the pieces of potato left from cutting the balls can be boiled and mashed1 so there is no waste4 ,,potato ,,omelet ,cut cold boiled potatoes into dice a quarter of an inch square2 mix them with enough white sauce to well moisten them4 ,place a tablespoonful of butter in a frying-pan2 when the butter is hot1 put in the potatoes and saute them until browned on the bottom1 loosen them from the pan1 and turn them like an omelet onto a flat dish2 or this preparation may be put in a baking-dish1 sprinkled with crumbs and grated cheese1 then put in the oven to brown1 and served in the same dish4 ,,creamed ,,potatoes ,cut cold boiled potatoes that are a little underdone into dice or into slices one eighth of an inch thick4 ,put them in a saucepan with enough milk or cream to cover them1 and cook until the potatoes have absorbed nearly all the milk2 then to every two cupfuls of potato add one tablespoonful of butter1 one half teaspoonful of salt1 a dash of pepper1 and1 just before serving1 a teaspoonful of parsley chopped very fine2 or a white sauce may be made1 using cream1 if convenient1 and the potatoes placed in it just long enough to heat them2 or a cream sauce may be poured over hot boiled potatoes2 then sprinkle with parsley4 ,,broiled ,,potatoes ,peel and cut the potatoes lengthwise into slices one quarter of an inch thick4 ,broil them on both sides over moderate heat until tender2 spread each slice with butter1 and sprinkle with salt and pepper4 ,serve very hot4 ,or1 use cold boiled potatoes4 ,dip each slice in melted butter2 sprinkle with pepper and salt and broil three minutes on each side4 ,,baked ,,potatoes ,select large potatoes of uniform size and shape4 ,wash and scrub them with a brush4 ,bake them in a hot oven about an hour1 or until soft2 press them to see if done1 but do not pierce them with a fork2 when soft break the skin in one place1 and serve at once on a napkin4 ,they become watery if kept4 ,,stuffed ,,potatoes ,select potatoes of equal size and shape1 wash and scrub them well and bake them4 ,while they are still hot cut a piece off the top of each1 and with a spoon scoop out the potato1 leaving the skin unbroken4 ,mash and season the potato1 using a little hot milk and beating it well to make it light4 ,fill the potato skins with the mashed potato1 letting it rise a little above the top of the skin4 ,place a piece of butter on the top of each1 and put them in the oven to get well heated and slightly brown the tops2 or cut the baked potatoes in two1 lengthwise1 and when the skins are filled1 smooth the potato even with the skin2 brush them with egg and set in the oven to glaze4 7,see illustration47 ,illustration3 ,,stuffed ,,baked ,,potatoes4 7,,see ,,page #bjd47 ,,potatoes ,,baked ,,with ,,meat ,pare the potatoes1 and place them in the dripping-pan with the meat one hour before the meat is to be removed4 ,baste them with the drippings1 and turn so all sides will be browned4 ,,lyonnaise ,,potatoes ,put one and a half tablespoonfuls of butter in a frying-pan4 ,when melted add a scant tablespoonful of chopped onion2 let it slightly color1 then add two cupfuls of cold boiled potatoes cut into dice4 ,stir until the potato has absorbed all the butter1 and become slightly browned2 then sprinkle with salt1 pepper1 and a tablespoonful of chopped parsley4 ,mix well1 and serve very hot4 ,,fried ,,potatoes ,cold boiled potatoes are sliced1 then put into a saute-pan with butter1 and cooked until browned on both sides4 ,if rolled in flour they will form a crisp crust4 ,raw potatoes are sliced or cut into any shape1 and put into cold water for half an hour4 ,they are then well dried on a napkin1 and immersed in hot fat until done4 ,too many must not be put in the basket at once1 as it cools the fat 7see frying1 page #gb74 ,fry them to an amber color2 then drain1 and place them on a paper in the oven until all are done4 ,serve them at once1 as they lose their crispness if kept4 ,,fried ,,potato ,,balls ,,and ,,straws ,to make balls use a potato scoop2 press it well into the potato before turning it4 ,to make straws cut the potato into slices lengthwise1 and then into strips1 making each one about one eighth of an inch thick4 ,slices or strips cut with a fluted knife are good forms for fried potatoes4 ,fry the potatoes in hot fat1 using a basket4 ,fancy fried potatoes are used to garnish any broiled meat dish4 ,there are many kinds of cutters to give different shapes to potatoes4 ,,saratoga ,,potatoes ,cut the potatoes with a plane into slices as thin as paper if possible4 ,let them soak in cold water for a little time to wash out the starch2 then put them into fresh water with a piece of ice to thoroughly chill them4 ,drain a few of the slices at a time1 dry them on a napkin2 put them in a frying basket and immerse them in smoking-hot fat4 ,keep them separated1 and remove as soon as slightly colored4 ,turn them into a colander to drain1 and sprinkle them with salt4 ,when the second lot are fried turn those in the colander onto a paper in the open oven1 and so on until all are done4 ,saratoga potatoes should be perfectly dry and crisp4 ,they may be used hot or cold1 and will keep for some time in a dry place4 ,if wanted hot1 place them in the oven a moment before serving4 ,,puffed ,,or ,,souffle ,,potatoes ,peel the potatoes2 cut the sides square1 and trim off the corners1 so as to give an oval shape4 ,with one even cut slice them one eighth of an inch thick the length of the potato2 they must be all the same size and shape4 ,soak them in cold water for half an hour2 dry them on a napkin1 and fry them in fat which is only moderately hot until they are soft1 but not colored4 ,remove and place them on a sieve to drain and cool4 ,then immerse them in hot fat1 when they will puff into balls4 ,toss the basket1 and remove any that do not puff4 ,sprinkle with salt1 and serve them on a napkin1 or as a garnish4 ,holland potatoes best suit this purpose2 it is impossible to get the same result with most of the other varieties4 ,,sweet ,,potatoes ,wash and scrub the potatoes2 put them in boiling water1 and cook until they can be pierced with a fork2 then pour off the water4 ,cover the pot with a cloth1 and draw it to the side of the range to let the potatoes steam for ten minutes4 ,peel them before serving4 ,,baked ,,sweet ,,potatoes ,wash and scrub the potatoes without breaking the skin4 ,bake until soft2 then break the skin in one place1 and serve at once4 ,,browned ,,sweet ,,potatoes ,cut cold boiled potatoes into slices one quarter of an inch thick4 ,sprinkle them with salt and pepper2 spread with butter1 and sprinkle with sugar4 ,place them in a hot oven to brown4 ,,sweet ,,potato ,,croquettes ,follow the rule for potato croquettes given on page #bjb4 ,,sweet ,,potato ,,puree ,mash thoroughly the boiled potatoes1 and season them well with salt1 pepper1 and butter2 add enough hot milk to moisten them4 ,serve it the same as mashed white potato2 or put it in a pudding-dish1 brush the top with egg1 and brown it in the oven4 ,serve with it a tomato sauce1 and use as a luncheon dish4 ,either boiled or baked potatoes may be used4 ,,stewed ,,tomatoes ,if fresh tomatoes are used remove the skins by placing them in boiling water a few minutes2 they will then peel off easily4 ,cut them in pieces1 and stew in a granite-ware saucepan until tender4 ,to one quart of tomatoes add one teaspoonful each of salt and sugar1 one quarter teaspoonful of pepper1 and a tablespoonful of butter4 ,thicken with a teaspoonful of cornstarch wet in cold water1 or with one half cupful of cracker or bread-crumbs4 ,,scalloped ,,tomatoes ,season a can of tomatoes with one teaspoonful of salt1 and one quarter teaspoonful of pepper4 ,spread a shallow baking dish with a thin layer of bread-crumbs2 pour in the tomatoes1 sprinkle over them a tablespoonful of sugar1 and a few drops of onion juice4 ,cover the top with a cupful of bread-crumbs which have been moistened with a tablespoonful of melted butter4 ,bake in a hot oven for fifteen minutes4 ,serve in the same dish4 ,,stuffed ,,tomatoes ,select large1 firm tomatoes2 do not remove the skins2 cut a small slice off the stem end1 and scoop out the inside4 ,fill them with a stuffing made as follows3 ,put one tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan2 when hot add one tablespoonful of onion chopped fine4 ,let it color slightly2 then add three quarters of a cupful of any minced meat1 chicken1 or livers1 one tablespoonful of chopped parsley1 one cupful of bread-crumbs1 the pulp taken from the tomatoes1 one teaspoonful of salt1 one quarter teaspoonful of pepper1 and also an egg if desired4 ,stir it over the fire until it is consistent4 ,dust the inside of the tomatoes with salt and pepper1 and fill them1 letting the stuffing rise half an inch above the tomato1 and place a piece of butter on it4 ,the above amount of stuffing is enough for eight tomatoes4 ,cut slices of bread one half inch thick into circles the size of the tomatoes2 dip them quickly in water1 and place in a baking-pan4 ,place a tomato on each piece of bread1 and bake in oven about fifteen minutes1 or until the stuffing is browned4 ,a brown sauce may be served with this dish4 ,the meat may be omitted from the stuffing if desired4 ,if convenient it is better to use oil instead of butter with tomatoes4 ,,roasted ,,tomatoes ,peel the tomatoes2 cut a piece off the top1 and remove a little of the pulp4 ,put a piece of butter or a few drops of oil in each one2 dust with salt and pepper1 replace the top1 sprinkle it with crumbs1 pepper1 and salt4 ,put a small piece of butter or a little oil on each one1 and place on a slice of bread4 ,bake in oven fifteen to twenty minutes4 ,,broiled ,,tomatoes ,cut the tomatoes horizontally in two2 leave the skins on4 ,place them on a broiler with the skin side down2 dust with salt and pepper1 and broil1 without turning1 over a moderate fire fifteen to twenty minutes1 or until tender4 ,lay them on a hot dish1 and spread each piece with either butter1 oil1 maitre d'hotel sauce1 hot ,mayonnaise or ,bearnaise2 or the tomatoes may be cut into thick slices1 covered with oil1 and then broiled1 turning frequently4 ,,tomato ,,farci ,cut the tomatoes in halves2 place them in a frying-pan1 the open side down1 in one half inch deep of hot fat4 ,move them about until they are cooked a little tender4 ,then lift them carefully without breaking1 and place them side by side in a baking-dish4 ,pour a little sweet oil around them2 sprinkle with chopped garlic1 and parsley1 salt1 pepper1 and cayenne4 ,bake in hot oven fifteen to twenty minutes4 ,serve in same dish4 ,,green ,,peas ,the flavor of peas1 and also the time required for cooking them1 depends very much upon their freshness4 ,put them into salted boiling water1 and do not cover the saucepan2 boil ten to twenty minutes1 or until soft enough to be easily mashed4 ,drain off the water1 and season with pepper1 salt1 and butter4 ,mix in the seasoning carefully with a fork1 so as not to break the peas4 ,sometimes a little sugar improves them4 ,use plenty of water in boiling1 and do not let them be overcooked1 as this is as bad a fault as having them underdone4 ,when canned peas are used turn them onto a sieve1 and rinse them off with cold water 7this will remove the taste of the can1 which they sometimes have72 add the seasoning1 and let them become thoroughly heated4 ,they do not require any more cooking4 ,,puree ,,of ,,peas ,boil the peas until very tender2 mash and press them through a sieve4 ,place them again in the saucepan1 and stir into them enough hot milk1 pepper and salt1 to well moisten and season them2 add also some butter1 and a very little sugar4 ,dried peas may be used in this way1 but require soaking and long boiling4 ,the puree makes a pretty garnish pressed through a pastry bag like potato roses 7see page #bjb71 or into a fancy border around a dish4 ,illustration3 ,,forms ,,of ,,puree ,,for ,,garnishing4 7,,see ,,pages #bji1 #baj1 ,,and #bag47 ,,string ,,beans ,remove carefully all the strings2 cut the beans into one-quarter inch pieces1 laying a number together1 and cutting them at one time2 or cut each bean lengthwise into four strips1 and lay them evenly together4 ,place them in salted boiling water1 and boil uncovered until tender2 drain off the water1 and season with salt1 pepper1 and butter1 or mix with them just enough white sauce 7page #bgg7 to coat them well4 ,,flageolets ,if the dried beans are used soak them several hours in cold water2 then throw them into salted boiling water1 and boil until tender1 but not soft enough to break4 ,use plenty of water in boiling them1 and drain well4 ,season with butter1 salt1 and pepper4 ,if cooked right the beans will be glossy4 ,they are good also as a puree1 the same as puree of peas 7see page #bji74 ,,lima ,,beans ,put them into salted boiling water1 and cook until tender1 then drain off the water4 ,moisten them with butter1 and season with salt and pepper2 and add1 if convenient1 a little hot cream1 or cover with white sauce4 ,,spinach ,put a half peck of spinach into cold water to freshen2 pick it over carefully1 removing all the wilted and yellow leaves4 ,pass it through five changes of water to free it from grit4 ,put it in a saucepan2 enough water will cling to it for the cooking4 ,cover the saucepan2 stir occasionally so it does not burn4 ,after fifteen minutes add a tablespoonful of salt1 and cook five minutes longer2 then turn it into a colander to drain2 when it is dry chop it very fine4 ,put into a saucepan one and a half tablespoonfuls of butter1 and one tablespoonful of flour4 ,after they are a little cooked add a teaspoonful of salt1 dash of pepper1 and the spinach4 ,cook five minutes2 then add a half cupful of cream or milk1 and cook another five minutes4 ,stir constantly1 to prevent burning4 ,taste to see if the seasoning is right4 ,serve either in a vegetable dish1 or in the center of a dish with chops around it1 or in bread boxes as shown in illustration2 or press the spinach into individual timbale molds1 place each form on a square of toast1 and garnish the top of each one in imitation of a daisy by placing in the center some of the yolks of hard-boiled eggs which have been pressed through a sieve1 and around this center a circle of the whites of the eggs chopped fine2 or a thick slice of hard-boiled egg may be pressed into the top of each mold4 ,illustration3 ,,spinach ,,served ,,in ,,croustades ,,or ,,bread-,,boxes4 ,,spinach ,,souffle ,take a cupful of spinach which has been prepared as directed above 7any that is left over can be utilized in this way72 mix with it the beaten yolk of an egg1 and stir it over the fire until the egg is set4 ,let it cool4 ,when ready to serve stir into it lightly the well-beaten whites of three eggs4 ,fill individual china cups or buttered paper boxes half full1 and place them in a hot oven for ten to fifteen minutes4 ,serve at once4 ,like any souffle1 it will fall if not sufficiently baked1 or if not served very promptly4 ,,chartreuse ,,of ,,spinach ,,or ,,of ,,cabbage ,boil a large carrot and turnip2 cut them into slices lengthwise three eighths of an inch thick1 then into strips of the same width4 ,butter well a tin basin1 with slightly flaring sides1 or a plain mold4 ,ornament the bottom with hard-boiled egg1 or with fancy pieces of the vegetables4 ,around the sides of the mold place close together alternate strips of the carrot and turnip4 ,if the mold is well buttered they will easily hold in place4 ,fill the center with spinach or with seasoned chopped cabbage1 and press it down so it is quite firm2 smooth the top and cut off the strips of vegetable so that they are even4 ,heat the chartreuse by placing the mold in a pan of hot water and putting both in the oven for a few minutes4 ,turn the chartreuse on a flat dish to serve4 ,a white or a vinaigrette sauce goes well with this dish4 ,birds1 veal cutlets1 chops1 chicken1 or sweetbreads may be placed on top of the chartreuse if desired4 ,illustration3 ,,chartreuse ,,of ,,spinach4 7,,see ,,pages #hc ,,and #baa47 ,border of alternate strips of carrot and turnip4 ,top circles of carrot and turnip4 ,,asparagus ,scrape the stalks2 let them stand in cold water for half an hour2 tie them again into a bundle and make them uniform in length2 put them into salted boiling water and cook about twenty minutes or until tender1 but not so soft as to be limp4 ,place the asparagus on buttered toast and remove the string4 ,serve with the asparagus1 but separately1 plain melted butter1 a white1 or a ,hollandaise sauce4 ,cold boiled asparagus is served as a salad with plain ,french dressing 7see page #cge7 or with cold ,bearnaise sauce4 ,,asparagus ,,tips ,cut the asparagus stalks into pieces about an inch long1 and as far down as tender4 ,cook them in salted boiling water4 ,drain and stir into them just enough white sauce to well coat them4 ,,cabbage ,sidenote3 ,cabbage4 ,sidenote3 ,cauliflower4 ,sidenote3 ,brussels sprouts4 ,sidenote3 ,kohlrabi4 ,four vegetables are the result of the cabbage plant by cultivation4 ,as the rose changes its character under the hand of the floriculturist1 so it is with cabbage at the hand of the gardener4 ,first is the cabbage1 which is the leafy bud that stores up food for a flower the next year4 ,second1 the cauliflower1 which is a cluster 7corymb7 of forced cabbage flowers4 ,third1 ,brussels sprouts4 ,the leaves are picked off1 and small buds form along the stem2 and fourth1 kohlrabi1 which is the leaves turned into a fleshy tuberous-like vegetable4 ,in these results two of the phases1 cauliflower and ,brussels sprouts1 are much esteemed1 and are given rank with the best vegetables1 while cabbage and kohlrabi have little favor1 and are considered coarse and vulgar foods4 ,the cabbage1 however1 if properly cooked1 will be found an exceedingly palatable vegetable1 which very closely resembles cauliflower4 ,,boiled ,,cabbage ,if this receipt is exactly followed1 this much-despised vegetable will be found very acceptable1 and its odor will not be perceptible through the house4 ,cut the cabbage into good-sized pieces1 take off the outside leaves1 and cut away the hard core4 ,wash it well in two changes of water1 and place the pieces1 open side down1 on a colander to drain4 ,have a very generous amount of water in a large saucepan or pot2 let it boil violently2 add a tablespoonful of salt and one quarter teaspoonful of baking soda2 put in the cabbage1 one piece at a time1 so as to check the boiling as little as possible4 ,let it cook for twenty-five minutes uncovered and boiling rapidly all the time4 ,push the cabbage under the water every five minutes4 ,turn it into a colander and press out all the water4 ,put into a saucepan one tablespoonful of butter1 a heaping teaspoonful of flour1 one half teaspoonful of salt and a dash of pepper2 add slowly one half cupful of milk1 and stir till smooth2 then add the cabbage4 ,cut it into large pieces with a knife1 and mix it lightly with the sauce4 ,if the cabbage is free from water the sauce will adhere to it and form a creamy coating4 ,this receipt of ,catherine ,owen has been found most satisfactory4 ,,cabbage ,,with ,,cheese 7,very ,good47 ,boil the cabbage as directed above4 ,press out all the water and chop it4 ,make a white sauce of one tablespoonful each of butter and flour1 one cupful of milk1 one half teaspoonful of salt1 dash of cayenne 7see page #bgg74 ,spread a layer of cabbage on the bottom of a pudding-dish2 cover it with white sauce2 then add a layer of grated cheese4 ,make a second layer of cabbage1 sauce1 and cheese2 cover the top with a layer of crumbs moistened with butter1 and place it in the oven4 ,when the sauce bubbles through the crumbs it is done4 ,serve in same dish4 ,,swedish ,,cabbage ,slice the cabbage into thin shreds as for cold slaw2 cook it in a generous amount of rapidly boiling water for fifteen minutes2 then drain off the water2 cover it with milk2 add salt1 pepper1 and a bit of mace1 and cook until tender1 and until the milk has boiled away so that it only moistens the cabbage4 ,add a piece of butter1 and serve4 ,,hot ,,slaw ,cut the cabbage into thin shreds as for cold slaw4 7,use a plane if convenient47 ,boil it until tender in salted fast-boiling water4 ,drain it thoroughly1 and pour over it a hot sauce made of one tablespoonful of butter1 one half teaspoonful of salt1 dash of pepper and of cayenne1 and one half to one cupful of vinegar1 according to its strength4 ,cover the saucepan and let it stand on the side of the range for five minutes1 so that the cabbage and sauce will become well incorporated4 ,,brussels ,,sprouts ,remove any wilted leaves from the outside of the sprouts1 and let them stand in cold salted water from fifteen to twenty minutes1 so that any insects there may be in them will come out4 ,put the sprouts into salted1 rapidly boiling water1 and cook uncovered fifteen or twenty minutes1 or until tender1 but not until they lose their shape4 ,drain them thoroughly in a colander2 then place them in a saucepan with butter1 pepper1 and salt1 and toss them until seasoned2 or mix them lightly with just enough white sauce to coat them4 ,,cauliflower ,trim off the outside leaves and cut the stalk even with the flower4 ,let it stand upside down in cold salted water for fifteen or twenty minutes to take out any insects there may be in it4 ,put it into a generous quantity of rapidly boiling salted water and cook it uncovered about twenty minutes or until tender1 but not so soft as to fall to pieces4 ,remove any scum from the water before lifting out the cauliflower4 ,if not perfectly white1 rub a little white sauce over it4 ,serve with it a white1 a ,bechamel1 or a ,hollandaise sauce2 or it may be served as a garnish to chicken1 sweetbreads1 etc41 the little bunches being broken off and mixed with white sauce4 ,,cauliflower ,,au ,,gratin ,break the boiled cauliflower into small flowerets4 ,place them in a pudding-dish in alternate layers with white sauce and grated cheese4 ,cover the top with crumbs moistened with butter1 and bake until the sauce bubbles through the crumbs4 ,,egg-,,plant ,cut the egg-plant into slices one quarter of an inch thick1 after removing the skin4 ,sprinkle the slices with salt4 ,pile them one upon another on the back of a dish4 ,place on them a plate holding a weight2 let it stand one hour to express the juice4 ,dip the slices in egg and crumbs1 or in egg and flour1 and saute on both sides in lard or drippings4 ,,stuffed ,,egg-,,plant ,boil an egg-plant twenty to thirty minutes1 or until tender4 ,cut it in two lengthwise1 and take out the pulp1 using care not to break the skin4 ,mash the pulp1 and season it with butter1 salt1 and pepper2 replace it in the skins2 sprinkle with bread-crumbs moistened in butter1 and place in the oven to brown4 ,,stuffed ,,peppers ,use green sweet peppers of uniform size4 ,cut a piece off the stem end1 or cut them in two lengthwise1 and remove the seeds and partitions4 ,put them in boiling water for five minutes to parboil4 ,fill each one with a stuffing made of equal parts of softened bread-crumbs and minced meat well seasoned with salt1 butter1 and a few drops of onion juice4 ,place them in a baking-dish with water1 or better stock1 half an inch deep1 and bake in a moderate oven for half an hour4 ,serve them in the same dish if a suitable one is used2 if not1 remove them carefully to another dish4 ,,chestnut ,,puree ,remove the shells2 boil ten minutes2 then drain and remove the skins4 ,put them in boiling salted water1 and cook until tender2 then drain1 mash1 and press them through a colander4 ,season with butter1 salt1 and pepper2 moisten with cream1 or milk1 or stock4 ,,celery ,,stewed ,cut the celery into pieces one inch long4 ,boil in salted water until tender2 drain and mix with a white sauce4 ,,celery ,,au ,,jus ,cut heads of celery into pieces six inches long1 leaving them attached to the root2 remove the coarse branches1 and trim the roots neatly4 ,parboil it for five minutes4 ,make a brown roux1 using two tablespoonfuls each of butter and flour1 one teaspoonful of salt1 and one quarter teaspoonful of pepper1 and dash of nutmeg4 ,add two cupfuls of stock when the roux is well browned2 and in this1 place the bunches of celery2 cover and cook very slowly for twenty-five minutes4 ,remove the celery1 and place it evenly on a dish4 ,strain the gravy2 pour it around or over the celery4 ,,carrots ,,and ,,turnips ,cut carrots and turnips into dice one quarter of an inch square1 or with a small potato scoop cut them into balls4 ,boil them separately in salted water2 drain and mix them carefully together4 ,stir lightly into them enough white sauce to moisten them well4 ,,macedoine ,,of ,,vegetables ,cut a carrot and turnip into half inch dice1 or with small vegetable-cutters cut them into fancy shapes or into small balls4 ,mix them in about equal proportions with green peas1 flageolet beans1 string-beans cut into half inch lengths1 and small pieces of cauliflower4 ,the vegetables should be boiled separately and well drained before being put together1 and when prepared should be mixed lightly so as not to break them1 and seasoned with butter1 pepper1 and salt1 or be moistened with a ,bechamel or a cream sauce4 ,the macedoine may be used as a garnish for meat1 or can be served separately in a vegetable dish4 ,this mixture of vegetables may also be used for a salad4 ,sometimes the vegetables1 instead of being mixed together1 are placed in separate piles around the meat or on a flat dish1 and then give a good effect of color4 ,,dried ,,beans ,,boiled1 ,,baked1 ,,puree1 ,,croquettes ,wash the beans1 and soak them over night4 ,boil them slowly until tender1 changing the water several times4 ,they are improved in flavor by boiling with them a small piece of salt pork1 a bay-leaf1 and onion4 ,if they are to be baked remove them from the water when the skin will break easily2 put them in a pipkin or bean pot1 bury in them a piece of salt pork with the rind scored2 sprinkle with salt and pepper4 ,pour over them a tablespoonful of molasses1 and enough salted water to cover them4 ,cover the pot closely1 and place it in a slow oven to cook for six to eight hours4 ,for a puree1 boil the beans until tender2 mash them through a colander4 ,season with butter1 salt1 and pepper2 and add enough cream or stock to make them the right consistency4 ,this is called ,puree ,bretonne4 ,to use it for a garnish1 press it through a pastry bag into forms like potato roses 7see page #bjb71 or put it into small fontage cups 7see page #cjj71 or on thin pieces of toast the size of a silver dollar4 ,to make croquettes add a beaten egg to the puree1 form it into small croquettes1 roll them in egg and crumbs1 and fry in hot fat4 ,,beets ,wash beets well1 but do not break the skin1 or they will lose their color in boiling4 ,cook for one hour if young1 for two to three hours if old4 ,when done throw them into cold water1 and remove the skins4 ,season with butter1 salt1 and pepper4 ,serve them whole if small2 cut into slices if large4 ,,summer ,,squash ,wash2 cut into small pieces2 cook in salted boiling water for twenty minutes1 or until tender4 ,drain thoroughly2 mash1 and press out all the water4 ,season with butter1 pepper1 salt1 and cream if convenient4 ,,parsnips ,boil the parsnips one hour1 or until tender2 throw them in cold water1 and remove the skins4 ,cut them in slices lengthwise one quarter of an inch thick4 ,sprinkle with salt and pepper4 ,dip in melted butter2 then roll in flour1 and saute on both sides until browned4 ,or mash the boiled parsnips2 season1 and stir into them one tablespoonful of flour and one egg to bind them2 form into small cakes1 and saute in drippings until browned on both sides4 ,,cucumbers ,,boiled1 ,,stuffed ,boiled3 ,peel the cucumbers1 and cut them lengthwise into quarters4 ,boil them in salted water until tender4 ,make a white sauce 7page #bgg71 using cream instead of milk1 if convenient4 ,place the well-drained cucumbers in the sauce1 to be heated through2 then sprinkle with chopped parsley1 and serve4 ,stuffed3 ,select large cucumbers of uniform size4 ,cut them in two lengthwise4 ,with a spoon remove carefully the seeds1 and fill the place with a stuffing made of equal parts of minced chicken1 or any meat1 and soft crumbs1 seasoned1 and moistened with one egg and a little stock4 ,round it over the top1 and sprinkle with crumbs4 ,place the pieces in a pan with enough stock to cover the pan one half inch deep4 ,cook in a moderate oven one hour1 or until the cucumbers are tender2 replenish the stock in the pan if necessary4 ,remove them carefully to a hot dish4 ,thicken the gravy in the pan with a little cornstarch1 and pour it around1 not over them4 ,this dish can be served as an entree4 ,,lettuce ,,stewed ,wash the lettuce carefully to remove the dust and any insects4 ,take off the wilted leaves1 and cut the root even with the head4 ,tie the top together4 ,lay the heads side by side in a baking-pan2 add enough stock to cover the pan one and a half inches deep4 ,cover1 and place in a moderate oven to simmer for one half hour1 or until the lettuce is soft2 renew the stock if necessary4 ,lift the lettuce out with a fork1 putting it under the middle2 let it drain1 and lay it double1 as it will be over the fork1 in a row on a hot dish4 ,season the gravy in the pan with butter1 salt1 and pepper2 thicken it with cornstarch1 or with a beaten egg1 and serve it with the lettuce4 ,,onions ,put them in salted boiling water1 and cook until tender2 drain1 and pour over them a white sauce1 or melted butter1 pepper1 and salt4 ,if browned onions are wanted for garnishing place them1 after they are boiled tender1 in a pan2 sprinkle with salt1 pepper1 and a little sugar2 and put them in a hot oven to brown4 ,,stuffed ,,spanish ,,onions ,peel the onions4 ,scoop out from the top a portion of the center4 ,parboil them for five minutes1 and turn them upside down to drain4 ,fill them with a stuffing made of equal parts of minced chicken1 or meat1 and soft bread-crumbs1 chop fine the onion taken from the center1 and add it to the mixture4 ,season it with salt and pepper1 and moisten it with melted butter4 ,fill the onions heaping full1 and sprinkle the tops with crumbs4 ,place them in a pan with an inch of water2 cover1 and let cook in an oven for an hour1 or until tender1 but not so long as to lose shape4 ,take off the cover the last five minutes1 so they will brown very slightly4 ,,corn ,,on ,,the ,,ear ,strip off the husk and silk4 ,put into boiling water2 cover1 and boil ten to fifteen minutes4 ,do not salt the water1 as it hardens the hull4 ,,corn ,,mock ,,oysters ,cut down through the center of the grains1 each row of green corn on the ear and with the back of a knife press out the pulp1 leaving the hulls on the ear4 ,to a pint of the pulp add two beaten eggs1 one teaspoonful each of butter and salt1 a dash of pepper1 and enough flour to bind it4 ,roll it into small cakes1 and saute them in butter2 or it may be dropped from a spoon into hot fat1 making fritters4 ,these may be made of canned corn1 in which case use a little milk and sugar4 ,,canned ,,corn ,turn it into a sieve1 and let a little water run over it from the faucet4 ,put it into a shallow baking dish2 add to one canful of corn one tablespoonful of butter1 one half cupful of cream or milk1 one half teaspoonful of salt1 and a dash of pepper4 ,place in the oven to brown the top1 and serve in the same dish4 ,,succotash ,mix equal parts of corn1 cut from the ear1 and any kind of beans2 boil them separately2 then stir them lightly together1 and season with butter1 salt1 and pepper and add a little cream if convenient4 ,,artichokes ,cut the stems off even with the leaves2 remove the hardest bottom leaves1 and cut off the top ones straight across1 leaving an opening4 ,take out the inside1 or choke4 ,wash well1 and place upside down to drain4 ,put them into boiling water for half an hour1 or until the leaves pull out easily2 drain well1 and serve on a napkin4 ,they should be cut with a sharp knife into halves or quarters1 and served with white1 ,bechamel1 or ,hollandaise sauce4 ,the bottom and the base of the leaves only are eatable4 ,,artichoke ,,bottoms ,remove all the leaves and choke4 ,trim the bottoms into good shape4 ,boil them in salted water until tender4 ,serve with ,bechamel or ,hollandaise sauce4 ,or cut the leaves close to the bottom1 and divide it into quarters4 ,cook1 and serve the same way4 ,canned artichoke bottoms can be procured1 which are very good4 ,,chapter ,,vii ,,farinaceous ,,foods ,,used ,,as ,,vegetables ,,receipts ,,for ,,macaroni ,,and ,,cereals ,,to ,,boil ,,rice ,wash the rice well1 and drain it4 ,it must be washed in several waters1 and until the floury coating1 which is usually on rice1 is all removed4 ,this flour makes it pasty1 and holds the grains together4 ,have a large saucepan of salted boiling water4 ,place it on the hottest part of the range1 so it will boil violently4 ,sprinkle in the rice slowly1 so as not to stop the boiling1 and let it cook for fifteen to twenty minutes uncovered4 ,at the end of fifteen minutes take out a few grains4 ,if they are soft when pressed between the fingers1 they are done4 ,then drain off every drop of water2 sprinkle with salt2 cover the pot with a napkin1 using one thickness only--and set it on the side of the range to steam and become perfectly dry4 ,or the rice may be turned into a colander to drain1 then placed in the open oven to dry4 ,use a large amount of water in proportion to the rice4 ,have it violently agitated all the time to keep the grains separated4 ,do not cook it too long1 and do not stir or touch it while cooking4 ,the cloth will not prevent the moisture escaping1 and will help to keep it warm while it is drying4 ,if these simple rules are observed1 each grain will be separate and dry4 ,do not cover the dish in which it is served4 ,rice cooked in this way can be served in the place of potatoes4 ,,rice ,,and ,,tomato ,to a cupful of boiled rice add a half cupful of strained tomato sauce1 which has been well seasoned with butter1 salt1 pepper1 and bay-leaf4 ,toss them together1 or mix lightly with a fork so as not to mash the grains4 ,serve as a vegetable4 ,,parched ,,rice ,boil rice as directed above1 so each grain will be separate4 ,let it get cold1 then separate the grains lightly with a fork on a flat dish4 ,put into a frying-pan just enough butter to cover the bottom of the pan2 when it is hot add a little of the rice at a time1 and saute it to a delicate color4 ,shake the pan constantly to keep the grains separated4 ,remove the rice as it is done1 and spread on a paper to dry in an open oven4 ,the rice should not be greasy when served4 ,this makes a good rice dish to serve as a vegetable with broiled meats4 ,,farina ,,balls #a_/b cupful of farina4 #b cupfuls of milk4 #a_/b teaspoonful of salt4 ,dash of cayenne4 #e drops of onion juice4 ,yolk of #a egg4 ,cook the milk and farina in a double boiler for twenty to thirty minutes4 ,wet the farina with a little cold milk before stirring it into the boiling milk1 so it will be smooth2 add the salt1 and cook to stiffness1 or until the milk has evaporated1 then add the cayenne1 onion juice1 and beaten yolk of egg4 ,stir well to mix1 and to cook the egg2 pour it onto a dish4 ,when cold roll it into balls one inch in diameter2 roll the balls in crumbs1 then in egg 7the white and yolk with one tablespoonful of water1 beaten only enough to break71 and again in white crumbs4 ,fry them in hot fat for one minute1 or to a light amber color4 ,be sure the balls are completely coated with egg and crumbs1 or they will break in frying4 ,any cold cereals can be used in this way4 ,they make a very pretty dish4 ,serve on a napkin1 or to garnish a meat dish4 ,illustration3 ,,farina ,,balls4 7,,see ,,page #bbc47 ,,fried ,,hominy ,cut cold boiled hominy into slices one half inch thick1 then into pieces of uniform size4 ,roll in flour1 and saute on both sides1 or dip them in egg and crumbs1 and fry in hot fat4 ,,fried ,,corn ,,mush ,pour well-boiled cornmeal mush 7page #bbh7 into a bread-tin or dish with straight sides1 so it will cut in even slices4 ,make the mush the day before it is to be used1 so it will have time to harden4 ,cut it in pieces one half inch thick1 and into any shape desired1 but have the pieces uniform4 ,roll each one in egg and flour1 and fry in hot fat2 or they may be rolled in milk1 then in flour1 and sauted in butter4 ,they should have a crust on both sides4 ,it is good served as a vegetable with game1 or as a breakfast dish with or without syrup4 ,,macaroni ,sidenote3 ,general directions4 ,the best macaroni is smooth1 has a fine1 close grain and clear yellow color4 ,it is made of flour and water only1 and when cooked needs the seasoning of a good sauce4 ,it is generally mixed with cheese1 but tomato1 cream1 or ,bechamel sauces make at good combination4 ,when macaroni is to be boiled in long pieces to be used for timbales1 hold the pieces in a bunch1 and lower them gradually into hot water4 ,they will quickly soften1 and can be turned into a circle in the saucepan4 ,they must be removed when tender1 and not cooked until they lose form4 ,when done drain off the hot water1 and pour on cold water for a few minutes2 then lay them straight on a cloth4 ,illustration3 ,,bean ,,pot4 ,,spaghetti ,sidenote3 ,how to serve4 ,spaghetti is a small and more delicate form of macaroni4 ,it is boiled until tender in salted water and is combined with cheese and with sauces the same as macaroni1 and is usually left long4 ,it makes a good garnish4 ,,baked ,,macaroni1 ,,with ,,cheese ,take as much macaroni as will half fill the dish in which it is to be served4 ,break it into pieces two and a half to three inches long4 ,put it into salted boiling water1 and boil twelve to fifteen minutes1 or until the macaroni is perfectly soft4 ,shake the saucepan frequently to prevent the macaroni from adhering to the bottom4 ,turn it into a colander to drain2 then put it into a pudding-dish with butter1 salt1 and grated cheese4 ,if much cheese is liked1 it may be put into the dish in two layers1 alternating the seasoning with the macaroni4 ,cover it with milk1 and bake until the milk is absorbed and the top browned4 ,a tablespoonful or more of melted butter should be used to a half pound of macaroni4 ,the macaroni called ,mezzani1 which is a name designating size1 not quality1 is the preferable kind for macaroni dishes made with cheese4 ,,macaroni ,,au ,,gratin ,boil the macaroni as directed above4 ,drain it in a colander2 then return it to the saucepan with butter and grated cheese4 ,toss over the fire until the butter is absorbed and the cheese melted4 ,serve at once before the cheese has time to harden4 ,a mixture of ,parmesan and of ,swiss cheese is often liked2 the former strings when melted2 the latter becomes liquid4 ,,macaroni ,,with ,,tomato ,,or ,,other ,,sauces ,boil the macaroni as directed above2 drain it in a colander2 then return it to the saucepan1 and mix it with tomato sauce1 with cream sauce1 or with ,bechamel sauce2 toss until they are well mixed2 serve in a vegetable dish or as a garnish4 ,,macaroni ,,with ,,minced ,,meat ,mix boiled macaroni with minced chicken or any meat1 and moisten with white or brown sauce4 ,the meat should be minced very fine4 ,this makes a good luncheon dish4 ,,receipt ,,for ,,macaroni 7,,from ,,mrs4 ,,maspero47 ,put the macaroni into salted boiling water1 and cook it twelve to fifteen minutes1 or until it is tender4 ,do not let the water boil violently1 as this breaks the macaroni4 ,when it is cooked1 drain off all the water1 and cover the hot macaroni with grated cheese 7,parmesan and ,gruyere mixed74 ,with two forks mix lightly the cheese with the macaroni4 ,turn it into the hot serving-dish1 and pour over it the sauce given below4 ,serve at once4 ,,sauce ,,for ,,macaroni1 ,,for ,,rissotto1 ,,and ,,for ,,polenta ,put into a saucepan one and a half tablespoonfuls of butter4 ,add a small onion chopped fine and a half clove of garlic4 ,cook until all are browned2 then add three tablespoonfuls of water in which the macaroni was boiled1 and a teaspoonful of beef extract4 ,add1 also1 three or four soaked mushrooms1 and let it simmer for five minutes4 ,this amount of sauce is enough for a pound of macaroni4 ,the mushrooms given in this receipt are the dried cepes1 which can be bought by the pound at ,italian groceries4 ,they are the best1 after the fresh mushrooms1 to use for sauces4 ,they should not be cooked longer than five minutes to give their best flavor4 ,,sauce ,,for ,,macaroni ,no4 #b 7,,mrs4 ,,maspero47 ,make a sauce as directed for ,no4 #a1 using in place of the beef extract a cupful of chopped round of beef1 and a cupful of tomatoes4 ,,sauce ,,for ,,macaroni ,no4 #c 7,,mrs4 ,,maspero47 ,when roasting an upper round of beef stick into it six cloves1 a clove of garlic1 and a few lardoons of pork4 ,sprinkle it well with salt and pepper4 ,after the beef is roasted1 turn the juice from the pan over the macaroni and cheese4 ,,polenta 7,,mrs4 ,,maspero47 ,make a cornmeal mush2 boil it for a long time1 until it is firm and hard4 ,cut it in slices or leave it in one piece4 ,pour over it sauce ,no4 #a given above4 ,,rissotto 7,,mrs4 ,,maspero47 ,boil rice until tender1 but not soft4 ,the ,italian rice must be used1 as it does not get soft like the ,carolina rice2 when the rice is done1 drain off the water and steam it dry2 then add1 while the rice is still on the fire1 some mixed grated ,parmesan and ,swiss cheese4 ,turn them together lightly until the cheese has softened1 then put it into the hot serving-dish1 and cover with sauce ,no4 #a given above4 ,,cereals ,,oatmeal ,,porridge ,oatmeal is ground in different grades of coarseness1 and some brands are partly cooked before they are put up for sale2 therefore the time for cooking varies1 and it is better to observe the directions given on the packages4 ,oatmeal requires to be cooked until very soft1 but should not be mushy4 ,the ordinary rule is to put a cupful of meal into a quart of salted boiling water 7a teaspoonful of salt71 and let it cook in double boiler the required time4 ,it is well to keep the pan covered until the oatmeal is cooked1 then remove the cover and let the moisture evaporate until the oatmeal is of the right consistency4 ,it should be moist enough to drop but not run from the spoon4 ,it should be lightly stirred occasionally to prevent its sticking to the pan1 but carefully so as not to break the grains4 ,if carefully cooked1 the sides of the pan will not be covered with burned oatmeal1 and so wasted4 ,oatmeal is very good cold1 and in summer is better served in that way4 ,it can be turned into fancy molds or into small cups to cool1 and will then hold the form and make an ornamental dish4 ,,cracked ,,wheat ,add to three cupfuls of water a half teaspoonful of salt2 when it boils add a half cupful of cracked wheat1 and let it cook uncovered until the water is nearly evaporated2 then add three cupfuls of hot milk2 cover and cook until the wheat is soft2 then uncover and cook to the right consistency4 ,it should be quite moist4 ,stir it carefully from time to time while it is cooking1 but with care not to break the grains4 ,turn into molds to harden1 and serve cold with sugar and milk4 ,,cornmeal ,,mush ,sprinkle with the hand a pint of cornmeal into rapidly boiling salted water1 stirring all the time4 ,cook for half an hour2 or mix the cornmeal with a pint of milk and teaspoonful of salt and turn it slowly into a quart of boiling water2 cook for half an hour1 stirring constantly4 ,this may be eaten cold or hot1 with milk1 with butter and sugar1 or with syrup4 ,when cold it can be cut into slices and browned on both sides in a saute-pan1 and used as a vegetable dish1 or as a breakfast dish1 and may be eaten with syrup4 ,,chapter ,,viii ,a ,,group ,,of ,,receipts ,,from ,a ,,new ,,england ,,kitchen 7,,supplied ,,by ,,susan ,,coolidge7 ,many of the receipts in this little group have never before appeared in print4 ,they are copies from old grandmother and great-grandmother receipt-books1 tested by generations of use1 and become1 at this time1 traditional in the families to which they belong4 ,they are now given to the public as examples of the simple but dainty cooking of a by-gone day1 which1 while differing in many points from the methods of our own time1 in its way is no less delicious4 ,,split ,,pea ,,soup ,soak one quart of split peas in lukewarm water for three hours4 ,pour off the water and boil the peas in three and a half quarts of salted water till they are thoroughly soft4 ,rub through a colander1 and throw away whatever does not pass through4 ,this will keep several days4 ,take out the quantity needed for dinner 7allowing a generous quart to three persons72 boil in it a small piece of pork1 onion1 and a little white pepper and salt2 strain and serve very hot1 with small cubes of fried bread dropped into the tureen4 ,,black ,,bean ,,soup #a quart of black beans4 #d quarts of water4 ,the bone of a boiled ham4 #f cloves4 #d peppercorns4 ,boil on the back of the range for twelve hours2 rub through a colander and set away to cool4 ,this should make soup for two dinners for a family of six4 ,when served1 add a glass of wine to each tureenful1 two or three slices of lemon1 and cubes of bread fried in butter4 ,,clam ,,soup ,boil a quart of clams in their own liquor till they are tender2 then chop them fine and return to the broth4 ,stir together until smooth two tablespoonfuls of butter and one and a half of flour1 and with them thicken the soup4 ,add very carefully a pint of milk1 stirring to avoid curdling1 and add two tablespoonfuls of butter1 with pepper and salt1 after taking the mixture from the fire4 ,,clam ,,chowder ,cut one half pound of salt pork into slices1 and fry them brown2 chop two small onions1 and cook them with the pork4 ,stew separately a quart of tomatoes1 canned or fresh1 and a quart of sliced potatoes4 ,when all are done1 put them together with one quart of clams and their juice4 ,add three pints of water1 salt1 pepper1 a little thyme1 a very little flour for thickening1 and a handful of small whole crackers4 ,stew all together for half an hour1 and serve very hot4 ,,fish ,,chowder ,three pounds of fresh codfish well boiled and the bones carefully removed4 ,two onions chopped fine and fried with half a pound of salt pork1 cut into small dice4 ,six potatoes cut small1 a pint of water1 a little salt and white pepper4 ,stew for twenty minutes1 thicken slightly with a little flour2 add a pint and a half of milk1 and let all boil up once1 stirring thoroughly4 ,put a handful of oyster crackers into a hot tureen1 and pour the mixture over them4 ,,browned ,,oysters ,take thirty large oysters 7about three pints72 wash them in their own liquor4 ,add to one pint of milk three tablespoonfuls of the oyster liquor1 well strained1 a very little mace1 and a bit of butter about the size of an ,english walnut1 and make the mixture scalding hot4 ,rub two tablespoonfuls of flour perfectly smooth with a little of the milk2 pour in and stir until the whole is thick4 ,then drop in the oysters2 cook five minutes or so1 till they are well plumped out1 and add a little salt1 white pepper1 and a tablespoonful of ,worcestershire sauce4 ,serve on a platter on slices of buttered toast4 ,,fish ,,and ,,oysters ,make a pint or more of white sauce1 with flour1 butter1 and hot milk1 carefully stirred till smooth and thick4 ,pick to fine bits two quarts of cold boiled codfish1 and add one pint of oysters chopped fine4 ,fill a well-buttered pudding-dish with alternate layers of the fish and oysters and white sauce1 sprinkling a little salt over the layers of cod4 ,cover the top of the dish with fine bread-crumbs and small bits of butter2 baste with a little cold water1 and bake till the top is browned4 ,,scalloped ,,oysters ,three pints of oysters2 a quart of sifted bread-crumbs4 ,place a layer of crumbs in the bottom of a rather deep baking-dish1 then a layer of oysters1 and sprinkle with salt and white pepper4 ,repeat the process till the dish is filled4 ,cover the top with crumbs and a layer of soft bread broken into bits and placed round the edge of a circle of small oyster crackers4 ,wet the whole with half a pint of soup stock and a quarter of a cup of oyster liquor4 ,cover the top generously with butter cut into fine bits4 ,pour over the whole a glass of sherry1 and bake an hour4 ,,pickled ,,oysters ,scald the oysters in their own liquor1 with a little water added1 till they are plump4 ,skim them out1 and drop into a bowl of cold water2 rinse well and put them in glass jars4 ,scald an equal quantity of the liquor and vinegar with whole peppers1 mace1 and salt1 and when perfectly cold fill the jars up with it4 ,these will keep two or three weeks4 ,,fricasseed ,,oysters ,drain a quart of large oysters from their liquor1 and place them in a covered saucepan with a quarter of a pound of good butter4 ,set them on the back of the range1 and let them simmer gently till the oysters are well plumped out4 ,put the oyster liquor in another saucepan with three tablespoonfuls of powdered cracker1 and a little pepper4 ,when the oysters are done1 remove them from the butter with a fork1 and place them on toasted crackers on a hot platter4 ,add the butter in which they have been cooked to the oyster broth4 ,let it boil up once4 ,stir in half a pint of cream1 and pour over the oysters4 ,,stewed ,,lobster ,cut a boiled lobster weighing four pounds into small pieces4 ,thicken a half pint of milk with a teaspoonful of flour and a tablespoonful of butter2 add a teaspoonful of dry mustard1 and a little salt and pepper4 ,stew the lobster in this till it is quite tender1 and lastly add a tablespoonful of vinegar4 ,,fish ,,balls ,,maine ,soak over night three quarters of a pound of boneless codfish4 ,in the morning shred the fish 7uncooked7 very carefully with a silver fork till it is fine4 ,add to it a dozen potatoes of medium size1 freshly boiled1 mashed1 and rubbed through a sieve1 two beaten eggs1 a tablespoonful of butter1 a little hot milk or cream1 and a sprinkling of white pepper4 ,mold into round balls1 and drop into very hot fat4 ,,codfish ,,and ,,cream ,shred two thirds of a bowlful of salt codfish1 wash it several times with fresh water1 drain off the water1 and put it into a saucepan with a pint of sweet cream and half a pint of sweet milk4 ,let it come nearly1 but not quite1 to the boiling point4 ,beat together one egg1 a tablespoonful of flour1 and two tablespoonfuls of sweet milk2 add it to the fish1 and stir continually until it is done4 ,put the mixture in a hot dish1 and add a large spoonful of butter1 stirring it thoroughly4 ,,oysters ,,on ,a ,,chafing-,,dish ,put into the chafing-dish four or five tablespoonfuls of the oyster liquor2 add salt1 white pepper1 and a tablespoonful of butter1 and stir till it is scalding hot4 ,drop the oysters in1 a dozen at a time1 and cook till they are plump and tender2 then skim out and place on slices of hot buttered toast2 add more oysters as required4 ,,pilau ,one half pint of rice2 one pint of stock2 one half can of tomato4 ,soak the rice in cold water for an hour4 ,pour off the water1 and put the rice1 with the stock and one quarter of a white onion1 in a double boiler4 ,stew till the rice absorbs the stock4 ,stew the tomato thoroughly1 and season with butter1 salt1 and pepper4 ,mix it with the rice4 ,saute in butter to a light color jointed chicken1 slightly parboiled1 or slices of cold cooked chicken or turkey4 ,make a hole in the rice and tomato1 put in the chicken and an ounce of butter1 and stew all together for twenty minutes4 ,serve on a platter in a smooth mound1 the red rice surrounding the fowl4 ,,spiced ,,shad ,scale the fish1 cut off the heads and tails1 and divide them into four pieces4 ,chop four or five small onions1 and sprinkle a layer on the bottom of a stone jar2 on this place a layer of fish1 packing closely4 ,spice with black and cayenne pepper1 cloves1 allspice1 whole peppers1 and a little more onion4 ,then add another layer of fish1 and so on till the jar is full4 ,arrange the roe on top1 spice highly1 and fill the jar with the strongest vinegar procurable4 ,place thick folds of paper on the jar under the cover1 and bake for twelve hours4 ,the vinegar will dissolve the bones1 and the fish can be sliced for a tea-table relish4 ,,pork ,,and ,,beans ,,new ,,hampshire ,soak a pint of small white beans over night4 ,in the morning pour off the water1 pour on a pint of cold water1 and set at the back of the range to simmer slowly for three quarters of an hour4 ,place the beans in a bean-pot with half a pound of scored salt pork in the middle1 half a teaspoonful of dry mustard1 salt1 white pepper1 and a half pint of white sugar4 ,add water from time to time1 as it grows dry1 and bake twelve hours4 ,a ,,rechauffe ,,of ,,cold ,,mutton ,have the mutton cut very neatly and carefully into slices4 ,add to a half pint of gravy or stock a little white pepper1 a quarter of a teaspoonful of dry mustard1 a quarter of a teaspoonful of curry powder1 and three large tablespoonfuls of currant jelly4 ,when this is scalding hot1 add a glass of sherry4 ,have ready a hot platter with slices of toast4 ,put the sliced mutton into the sauce long enough to heat through1 but not to cook for a moment4 ,take the slices out with a fork1 and place them on the toast2 last of all pour the boiling gravy over all1 and serve instantly4 ,this preparation will be found delicious--it robs the second-day-of-the-mutton of its terrors4 ,,corned ,,beef ,if a round of corned beef is to be eaten cold1 as is often the case1 it should be carefully and slowly boiled1 and left in the pot till the next day4 ,the soaking in the water in which it has been boiled has the effect of making the beef delightfully delicate and tender1 and a little less salt in its flavor4 ,no one who has tried this method will be content with any other4 ,if the beef is to be served hot1 what is left can be reheated1 and left to cool for the next day's use in the liquor4 ,a ,,beefsteak ,,pie ,,connecticut ,three pounds of lean rump steak cut thick4 ,cut it into strips three inches long1 and an inch wide4 ,put it to stew in enough boiling water to not quite cover the meat1 and simmer very slowly for half an hour4 ,add a tablespoonful of parsley chopped fine1 a large teaspoonful of sweet thyme1 half a teaspoonful of white pepper1 and a quarter of a pint of sliced onions4 ,stew together till the meat is perfectly tender4 ,rub smooth a tablespoonful of corn starch1 and stir it with the gravy until it becomes of the consistency of cream2 add a little salt and a tablespoonful of ,worcestershire sauce4 ,place the meat in a deep pudding-dish with alternate layers of cold ham sliced thin and sliced hard-boiled eggs--seven or eight eggs will be required4 ,add a little grated nutmeg2 cover with paste1 and bake half an hour4 ,,easy ,,chicken ,,salad ,take a two-pound can of ,richardson ,robbins's compressed chicken2 remove the skin1 and cut the chicken into small dice4 ,add twice as much celery cut into small pieces1 salt to taste1 and marinate the whole with a mixture of three tablespoonfuls of vinegar to nine of oil4 ,have it very cold1 and just before serving pour over it a ,mayonnaise made by the following receipt4 ,this quantity is enough for twenty-five persons4 ,,cream ,,dressing ,rub together in a china bowl a large tablespoonful of butter1 four tablespoonfuls of vinegar1 a half teaspoonful of salt1 and a half teaspoonful of dry mustard4 ,place the bowl in a saucepan full of boiling water over a spirit lamp1 or on the range4 ,stir the mixture carefully till very hot1 to prevent the butter from oiling4 ,when hot add two well-beaten eggs2 stir till thick1 then pour in a half pint of cream1 stir1 remove from the fire1 and allow it to get perfectly cold4 ,cold sweet-breads are excellent served with this cream ,mayonnaise4 ,,macaroni ,a ,l',,albi ,break a dozen stems of large macaroni into pieces four inches long1 and stew carefully1 till tender1 in consomme or white soup stock4 ,place in a dish layers of the macaroni sprinkled with salt1 pepper1 and of ,gruyere cheese grated fine4 ,cover the top with a thick layer of grated cheese1 on that a layer of fine bread-crumbs1 and on that bits of butter cut fine4 ,bake just long enough to brown the top thoroughly4 ,,corn ,,pudding ,scrape with a knife two dozen ears of green corn1 cutting each row through the middle4 ,add one pint of milk1 half a pound of butter1 three eggs1 the whites and yolks beaten separately1 a little salt1 and white pepper4 ,stir the yolks into the milk and corn1 pour into a baking-dish1 stir in the whites1 and bake an hour and a half4 ,,thin ,,indian ,,bread ,,vermont ,mix together two cupfuls of meal1 a tablespoonful of lard1 and a teaspoonful of salt2 scald with boiling water4 ,thin it with a large cupful of cold milk and two well-beaten eggs4 ,spread thin on a large buttered pan1 and bake till brown in an oven only moderately hot4 ,,graham ,,gems ,one pint of milk4 ,one pint of graham flour4 ,place on top of the range a frame of iron-clad gem-pans to get very hot4 ,stir the milk and meal together lightly1 not trying to make the batter very smooth4 ,drop a bit of butter into each hot pan1 and while it sizzles pour in the batter1 and instantly set in the oven2 bake twenty minutes4 ,the heat raises the batter to lightness1 and the butter gives a savory crust to the little cakes4 ,,colonial ,,hoe-,,cakes ,,connecticut ,stir ,indian meal and water together into a thickish paste4 ,spread thickly on a new wooden spade1 or on the top of a new barrel1 and set on end before an open fire to slowly toast1 turning the cake when the outer side is brown4 ,no preparation of ,indian meal has quite the flavor of this4 ,,rhode ,,island ,,johnny-,,cake ,for this1 ,rhode ,island meal1 ground between stones1 is required4 ,take one pint of meal and one teaspoonful of salt1 and scald thoroughly with boiling water till it is a stiff1 smooth batter4 ,thin with cold milk till about the consistency of sponge-cake batter1 and drop in tablespoonfuls on a hot buttered griddle4 ,when the under side is brown1 turn the cakes and brown the other side4 ,eat with butter4 ,,boston ,,brown ,,bread ,one pint of yellow cornmeal1 scalded with a small quantity of boiling water1 just enough to wet it thoroughly4 ,let it stand ten minutes4 ,then add enough cold water to make a soft batter4 ,add one quarter pint of brewer's yeast1 one quarter pint of molasses1 one pint of rye meal1 one half teaspoonful of salt1 and one saltspoonful of soda4 ,beat it well together1 and set it to rise over night4 ,when light1 stir it thoroughly1 put it into a buttered tin1 sprinkle a little flour over the top1 and set it to rise again4 ,bake about two hours4 ,it is excellent cut into slices and toasted4 ,,dabs ,,connecticut ,a pint of cornmeal1 thoroughly scalded with hot water4 ,rub into it a dessertspoonful of butter1 two eggs beaten very light1 a wineglassful of cream or milk1 and a little salt4 ,butter a tin pan1 and drop the mixture from a spoon upon it4 ,bake in a moderate oven4 ,,cream ,,oatmeal ,boil oatmeal for an hour as for breakfast use4 ,rub it through a fine sieve1 add a little milk1 and cook it very slowly in a double boiler for half an hour longer4 ,when perfectly smooth1 add a little salt and cream4 ,this is the most delicate preparation of oatmeal that an invalid can take4 ,,zephyrs ,prepare a thin mush of ,indian meal1 water1 and salt1 and boil till smooth4 ,drop this batter into iron-clad pans1 made very hot and buttered1 and bake till brown4 ,,squash ,,pies ,pare and cut into pieces a ,hubbard squash1 and steam it till1 thoroughly soft2 then rub it through a coarse sieve4 ,to a quart of the squash1 which should be as thick and dry as chestnuts when prepared for stuffing1 add three quarters of a pint1 heaping full1 of granulated sugar1 the peel and juice of a large lemon1 half a nutmeg grated1 a tablespoonful of powdered ginger1 about as much powdered cinnamon1 a small teaspoonful of salt1 six drops of rose-water1 half a pint of cream1 and four beaten eggs4 ,stir thoroughly1 and add about three pints of scalded milk4 ,the mixture should be tasted1 and a little more sugar1 or lemon1 or spice added if required4 ,line a deep tin pie-dish with paste1 lay a narrow strip around the edge1 and fill the dish with the mixture4 ,bake till the filling is set4 ,this quantity will make four pies4 ,,pumpkin ,,pies 7,about ,four ,pounds7 ,,massachusetts ,pare a small pumpkin1 about four pounds1 and take out the seeds4 ,steam till soft1 and strain through a colander4 ,beat in three eggs1 three tablespoonfuls of molasses1 two tablespoonfuls of ground cinnamon1 one of ginger1 two teaspoonfuls of salt1 and two quarts of hot milk4 ,if more sweetening is needed add a little sugar4 ,bake with an under crust only4 ,this receipt will make five pies4 ,,easy ,,pie-,,crust ,three quarters of a pint of lard1 three quarters of a pint of butter1 three quarters of a pint of iced water with a teaspoonful of salt dissolved in it1 a pint and a half of flour sifted twice through a fine sieve4 ,put the lard and flour into a bowl 7leaving out a little flour for rolling71 and very lightly rub them together with the tips of your fingers4 ,pour in the salted water1 and stir with a knife till the flour and lard are well mixed4 ,pour out onto the paste-board 7over which a very little flour should be sifted71 and beat the mixture with a rolling pin1 doubling and folding1 and putting the dry particles in the middle1 till the whole becomes a smooth1 firm paste4 ,roll this into a narrow oblong1 as far as possible rolling from you4 ,divide the butter1 which should be very cold and hard1 into three parts1 and put one third on the paste with a knife1 cutting it into little bits4 ,fold the sheet of paste over into a roll1 and again roll out into an oblong4 ,add the second third of butter in the same way4 ,roll once more1 put on the last third of butter1 again fold into a roll1 and cut the paste in two1 putting one half on top of the other half4 ,cut portions off from the end of the double roll1 and with them line the pie dishes1 rolling them very thin4 ,this quantity of paste will make four or five pies4 ,care should be taken not to increase the quantity of flour4 ,the pie-crust will be found tender and delicate1 though not so elegant as puff-paste2 and to make it ready for use in the pie-dishes should not take more than a quarter of an hour4 ,a ,,boiled ,,indian ,,pudding ,,connecticut ,one quart of milk4 ,one pint of meal4 ,five tablespoonfuls of ,west ,india molasses4 ,two tablespoonfuls of suet chopped fine4 ,scald the milk1 and pour it over the meal2 add the other ingredients4 ,put the pudding into a mold or bag1 and boil four hours4 ,hot maple molasses and butter are eaten with this pudding4 ,a ,,baked ,,indian ,,pudding ,three and a half quarts of sweet milk4 ,three heaping tablespoonfuls of cornmeal4 ,one half pint of molasses4 ,one teaspoonful of salt4 ,ginger to taste4 ,boil one quart of the milk2 add to it molasses1 butter1 salt1 and spice1 and lastly the meal stirred smooth with a little cold milk2 scald the whole together1 and turn into a well-buttered baking-dish4 ,when it begins to crust over1 stir it all up from the bottom1 and add a pint of cold milk4 ,repeat the process every half hour1 or oftener if the pudding browns too fast1 till the five pints are used2 then let it bake till done--six hours in all4 ,serve hot with a sauce of grated or granulated maple sugar stirred into rich cream1 and kept very cold till needed4 ,,orange ,,indian ,,pudding ,,connecticut ,put four heaping tablespoonfuls of ,indian meal in a bowl1 and mix in half a pint of molasses and a teaspoonful of salt4 ,boil three pints of milk2 pour it scalding hot on the meal1 stirring carefully till perfectly smooth and free from lumps4 ,butter a deep pudding-dish2 cover the bottom thickly with fragments of dried orange-peel2 pour in the mixture1 and1 last of all1 pour gently over the top a tumblerful of cold milk4 ,bake four hours and a half in a hot oven4 ,eat with thick cream4 ,,blueberry ,,pudding ,,rhode ,,island ,line a deep pudding-dish with slices of buttered bread4 ,fill this with alternate layers of whortleberries or blueberries1 and granulated sugar4 ,squeeze the juice of a lemon over the whole4 ,cover the top with slices of bread buttered on both sides4 ,place a plate over the dish1 and bake for an hour and a half1 setting the dish in a pan of hot water4 ,take the pudding from the oven1 spread over the top a meringue of white of egg beaten lightly with sugar in the proportion of a tablespoonful of sugar to one egg1 and return it to the oven just long enough to lightly brown the meringue4 ,the pudding should be eaten hot with hard wine sauce4 ,a ,,peach ,,pudding ,line the bottom of a deep pudding-dish with thick slices of stale sponge cake soaked in sherry4 ,fill the dish with fresh peaches1 sliced1 and well sprinkled with sugar4 ,spread over the top a meringue similar to that described for whortleberry pudding1 and leave it in the oven just long enough to brown4 ,set the dish on the ice1 and serve very cold4 ,it is eaten with cream4 ,,cherry ,,bread ,fill a deep pudding-dish with alternate layers of buttered bread and sour cherries1 stoned1 and stewed with sugar4 ,pack the dish in ice1 and half freeze the mixture1 which will become a semi-jelly4 ,it is eaten with thick cream4 ,,lemon ,,rice ,,pudding ,boil a half pint of rice in a quart of milk till very soft4 ,add to it while hot the yolks of three eggs1 three large tablespoonfuls of sugar1 the grated rind of two lemons1 and a little salt4 ,if too thick1 add a little cold milk4 ,it should be a little thicker than a boiled custard4 ,turn it into a pudding-dish4 ,beat the whites of the eggs very stiff with eight tablespoonfuls of sugar and the juice of the two lemons1 and brown the top delicately in the oven4 ,set on ice and eat very cold4 ,,bermuda ,,pudding ,weigh two eggs1 and allow the same weight in sugar and flour1 and the weight of one egg in butter4 ,beat the butter and sugar to a cream1 add the eggs beaten to a froth1 and lastly the flour1 in which half a teaspoonful of ,royal ,baking ,powder has been mixed4 ,stir till perfectly smooth2 then add a heaping tablespoonful of orange marmalade2 pour into a buttered mold2 cover with buttered paper1 and steam gently for an hour and a half4 ,serve with wine sauce4 ,,rice ,,and ,,orange-,,marmalade ,,pudding ,simmer a quarter of a pint of rice in a quart of milk till it is very soft and thick4 ,add a teaspoonful of salt1 four tablespoonfuls of sugar1 a little cream1 and let all cool together a few minutes4 ,pour into a pudding-dish and bake till set4 ,spread over the pudding a thick layer of orange marmalade1 and over that a meringue1 and return to the oven till the top is lightly browned4 ,serve it cold4 ,,molasses ,,pie ,this is a genuine ,new ,england dainty1 dear to the hearts of children4 ,mix half a pint of the best molasses with a tablespoonful of flour1 and add the juice of a large lemon1 and the rind and pulp chopped fine4 ,bake with an under and an upper crust4 ,,prune ,,jelly1 ,,with ,,almonds ,one pound of prunes4 ,one half box of ,coxe's gelatine4 ,soak the prunes over night1 and stew till tender in the water in which they have soaked4 ,remove the stones1 and sweeten to taste4 ,dissolve the gelatine in a little hot water1 and add to the prunes while hot4 ,lastly1 add the juice of a lemon and two tablespoonfuls of blanched almonds4 ,pour the jelly into molds and set it on the ice to harden4 ,eat with cream4 ,,clarified ,,apples ,melt two cupfuls of crushed sugar over the fire1 adding a little water to keep it from burning1 and dropping in a few bits of lemon-peel4 ,pare eight large greening apples1 and slice them very thin4 ,have a saucepan full of boiling water ready1 and into this put the apples and let them cook till they are parboiled1 but not soft enough to break4 ,skim them out1 and drop them into the boiling syrup1 shaking them continually over a slow fire till they are done4 ,if properly prepared the slices will be almost transparent4 ,,lemon ,,ice ,one quart of milk4 ,one tumblerful of sugar4 ,mix the two1 and half freeze in an ice cream freezer4 ,then add the juice and pulp of four large lemons2 stir thoroughly1 and freeze firm4 ,this is the simplest and cheapest of frozen preparations1 and for use in the country1 where materials are hard to come by1 it is invaluable4 ,,apple ,,sauce ,pare1 core1 and quarter enough ,baldwin or greening apples to fill a small stoneware jar4 ,add three quarters of a pint of sugar and a quarter of a pint of water2 cover tightly4 ,set this in the oven of the range as soon as the last meal of the day--dinner or supper1 as it may be--is served1 and let it remain till breakfast next morning4 ,the long1 slow cooking gives the apples a deep red color and a flavor quite different from other preparations4 ,,stewed ,,pears ,prick hard baking pears with a fork in half a dozen places1 and with them fill a small stoneware jar4 ,add half a pint of sugar1 half a pint of water1 and a heaping teaspoonful of molasses4 ,cover tightly1 and bake all night as directed above4 ,,cranberry ,,jelly ,stew four quarts of cranberries in a porcelain kettle with water enough to float them1 till they are thoroughly soft and broken4 ,rub them through a coarse sieve4 ,allow to each pint of the marmalade-like mixture resulting a pound of sugar4 ,put the fruit on the fire till it boils hard4 ,stir in the sugar1 and as soon as it jellies1 which will be in a few minutes1 remove from the fire and pour into glasses4 ,the advantage of this preparation of cranberries is that it keeps perfectly for six weeks or two months1 losing nothing in quality or flavor during the time4 ,,hartford ,,election ,,cake #d-a_/b pounds of flour4 #b-a_/b pounds of sugar4 #b-a_/d pounds of butter4 #a_/b ounce of nutmeg4 #a_/b pound of sliced citron4 #a_/b ounce of mace4 ,a cupful of brandy and sherry mixed4 #b pounds of raisins4 #d eggs4 ,at noon1 or early in the afternoon1 begin making this cake4 ,cream the butter and sugar1 add a quart of lukewarm milk1 half of the flour1 and either a half pint of brewer's yeast or a cake and a half of compressed yeast4 ,beat the mixture well1 cover the pan with a thick towel1 and set it in a warm place to rise4 ,at night1 when it is very light1 add the flour1 spices1 and eggs4 ,set the pan in a moderately warm place for a second rising4 ,early next morning add the fruit1 the wine1 the grated peel of a lemon1 and half a teaspoonful of extract of rose4 ,pour into pans lined with buttered paper4 ,let them stand an hour or until light4 ,this receipt makes seven loaves1 which require to bake from an hour to an hour and a half1 according to oven4 ,a half teaspoonful of soda dissolved in a little warm water1 and stirred into the batter just before it is put into the pans1 is an improvement4 ,,instantaneous ,,frosting ,to the white of an unbeaten egg add a cupful and a quarter of pulverized sugar1 and stir until smooth4 ,add three drops of rose-water1 ten of vanilla1 and the juice of half a lemon4 ,it will at once become very white1 and will harden in five or six minutes4 ,,chapter ,,ix ,,part ,i ,,distinctively ,,southern ,,dishes ,sidenote3 ,the ,cornmeal4 ,sidenote3 ,the ,hoe4 ,the dishes in which the ,south excel1 and which may be called distinctive to that section1 are those made of cornmeal1 of gumbo or okra1 and those seasoned with sassafras powder or twigs4 ,the cornmeal used in the ,south is white and coarse-grained 7it is called there water-ground71 and gives quite a different result from that which is finer in grain and yellow in color1 which is usually sold at the ,north4 ,the hoe used for baking corn-cakes is an article made for the purpose1 and not the garden implement usually associated with the name4 ,,pone ,sift a quart of white cornmeal1 add a teaspoonful of salt2 pour on enough cold water to make a mixture which will squeeze easily through the fingers4 ,work it to a soft dough4 ,mold it into oblong cakes an inch thick at the ends1 and a little thicker in the center4 ,slap them down on the pan1 and press them a little4 ,these cakes1 they say1 must show the marks of the fingers4 ,the pan must be hot1 and sprinkled with the bran sifted from the meal4 ,bake in a hot oven for about twenty minutes4 ,,hoe-,,cake ,no4 #a ,make the same mixture as for pone4 ,spread it on the greased hoe1 or a griddle1 making a round cake one quarter inch thick4 ,bake it on the top of the range1 turning and baking it brown on both sides4 ,,hoe-,,cake ,no4 #b ,use for these cakes1 if possible1 coarse water-ground white meal4 ,add to a quart of meal a teaspoonful of salt2 pour over it enough boiling water to make it a soft dough2 add also a little milk to make it brown better4 ,let it stand an hour or longer1 then work it together with the hand4 ,form it into little cakes an inch thick1 and bake on a greased griddle till browned on both sides4 ,serve very hot4 ,they are split and spread with butter when eaten4 ,,kentucky ,,corn ,,dodgers ,mix a teaspoonful of salt with a cupful of white cornmeal4 ,scald it with just enough boiling water to dampen it2 then add enough cold milk to enable you to mold it4 ,stir it well together1 and form it into cakes three quarters of an inch thick in the middle and oblong in shape4 ,use a tablespoonful of dough for each cake4 ,bake them on a greased pan in a hot oven for twenty-five minutes4 ,,maryland ,,beaten ,,biscuit ,add a teaspoonful of salt and tablespoonful of butter to a quart of flour4 ,rub them together1 then add a cupful of milk1 and1 if necessary1 a little water1 making a stiff dough4 ,place the dough on a firm table or block1 and beat it with a mallet or rolling-pin for fully half an hour1 or until it becomes brittle4 ,spread it half an inch thick2 cut it into small circles1 and prick each one with a fork4 ,bake them in a hot oven about twenty minutes4 ,,soft ,,corn-,,bread ,mix a tablespoonful of butter with two cupfuls of hot boiled hominy or of rice2 add two or three well-beaten eggs1 and then add slowly two cupfuls of milk1 and lastly a cupful of white cornmeal and a dash of salt4 ,turn the mixture1 which should be of the consistency of pancake batter1 into a deep dish1 and bake about an hour4 ,serve it with a spoon from the same dish in which it is baked4 ,,southern ,,way ,,of ,,cooking ,,rice ,wash the rice thoroughly through several waters1 using the hand4 ,put it into a saucepan with a pint of water and a half teaspoonful of salt to each cupful of rice4 ,let it boil covered until the water has boiled away2 then draw it to the side of the range1 open the cover a little1 and let it steam until thoroughly dry4 ,do not touch the rice while it is cooking4 ,this receipt is furnished by a ,southern negro cook4 ,,gumbo ,,file 7,a ,,new ,,orleans ,,dish7 #ej oysters4 #a fowl cut into pieces4 #a_/b pound of veal cut into pieces4 #a_/b pound of ham cut into pieces4 #c tablespoonfuls of tomato4 #a tablespoonful of drippings4 #b onions4 #a_/b teaspoonful of salt4 #a_/d teaspoonful of pepper4 #a_/d teaspoonful of powdered thyme4 #a_/d teaspoonful of marjoram4 ,dash of cayenne4 #b tablespoonfuls of sassafras powder4 ,wash well the outside of a fowl 7see page #ahj71 and cut it into pieces4 ,cut the veal and the ham into small pieces1 and dredge all of them well with flour4 ,put the onions1 sliced1 into a pot or large saucepan with one tablespoonful of fat or drippings1 and fry until brown2 then add the pieces of chicken1 veal1 and ham4 ,turn them often1 so all will brown evenly2 this will take about twenty minutes4 ,when the meat is browned1 add two quarts of hot water2 cover the pot1 and let simmer for two hours4 ,after the first hour add the salt1 pepper1 thyme1 marjoram1 and tomatoes4 ,at the end of two hours1 if the meat is tender1 add the oysters and the oyster juice1 and let remain on the fire only long enough to ruffle the gills of the oysters4 ,take from the fire1 and add two tablespoonfuls of sassafras powder1 and stir until a little thickened 7do not add the sassafras until the pot is removed from the fire74 ,serve in a meat-dish with a border of boiled rice4 ,this is a dish much used in the ,south4 ,it may be served as a chowder1 with the meat and liquor together1 or may be served separately1 using the liquor as a soup4 ,powdered sassafras leaves may be obtained at the grocer's4 ,,chicken ,,gumbo ,cut a chicken into pieces2 roll the pieces in flour2 put them into a pot with a few slices of salt pork and one sliced onion4 ,saute them a light brown2 then add four quarts of hot water1 and simmer it until the chicken is nearly cooked2 then add two slices of boiled ham1 two quarts of sliced okra1 one half can of tomatoes1 and one pod of red pepper4 ,continue to cook until everything is tender4 ,season with salt and pepper1 and just before serving stir in one teaspoonful of sassafras powder4 ,if sassafras twigs can be had they are better than the powder1 and should be added with the vegetables4 ,this is a favorite ,southern dish4 ,it resembles a chowder1 and is so hearty as to almost constitute a dinner in itself4 ,,part ,,ii ,,very ,,inexpensive ,,dishes ,sidenote3 ,cost of living4 ,the following receipts are furnished by a lady who for many years solved the problem of providing nourishment for a family of three persons upon a very small income4 ,the average expenditure each day for three meals did not exceed twenty cents per capita1 or four dollars and twenty cents a week for the family2 and great care was taken to secure for this sum the greatest possible amount of nourishment4 ,in families where meat is not considered a daily necessity1 this price might be further reduced4 ,sidenote3 ,care required in cooking cheap cuts of meat4 ,it is1 of course1 very much easier to supply coarse qualities of food for a low sum than refined and dainty dishes1 but1 after all1 it is more a matter of the care given to the preparation than of the food itself which produces refined results2 for instance1 beef1 which is very nourishing1 is least suited to these requirements1 because the less expensive portions1 which often contain the most nutriment1 cannot be served as daintily as either veal or mutton without a large amount of care and trouble2 this it is often difficult to give personally1 and almost impossible to secure in a low-priced cook4 ,still1 it is worth while for any housekeeper desirous of obtaining the maximum nourishment at minimum cost1 to try the following receipts for using the most inexpensive portion of beef that can be bought1 i4 e41 the shin1 which costs about eight cents a pound4 ,,to ,,prepare ,,shin ,,of ,,beef ,take a slice about one inch thick1 cut toward the smaller end of the shin1 so that the little round bone in the center is quite small4 ,this is fairly manageable1 and can by careful cooking be rendered as tender as a sirloin steak4 ,place the slice in a stewpan1 cover it with water1 add salt1 and set it upon the far end of the grate for three hours1 never allowing it to boil4 ,if by that time it is fairly tender1 cover it with vegetables cut in very small dice--carrots1 turnips1 and one large onion2 advance the pot nearer to the fire1 and let it simmer another hour4 ,push aside the vegetables1 take the meat out carefully1 and lay it on the dish2 pile the vegetables upon its center1 then carefully thicken the liquor1 and if necessary brown it with a drop or two of burnt sugar1 and pour this gravy over the beef4 ,,another ,,way ,take about two and a half pounds of the thicker part of the shin1 place it in an iron pot with two tablespoonfuls of drippings4 ,turn it as it browns4 ,when brown enough put it in a stew-pan2 add enough water to cover it1 a large onion stuck full of cloves1 and half a carrot cut into slices4 ,let it simmer four hours1 remove the meat and onion and carrot1 thicken the liquor1 and serve in a dish large enough to allow plenty of gravy4 ,if1 after removing the meat1 the liquor appears too rich1 pour off the fat before thickening4 ,sidenote3 ,round ,steak4 ,round steak can be used instead of shin for both these receipts1 but costs just double the price4 ,it requires far less cooking and calls for less care1 and if carefully and slowly stewed for one hour makes a very appetizing dish4 ,another very appetizing dish1 much used by people of small means in ,england1 is beefsteak pudding1 for which it is also possible to use the shin1 by stewing it beforehand1 and cutting it up when perfectly tender into small pieces2 but it is usually made of round steak as follows3 ,,beefsteak ,,pudding ,line a pudding-basin with a plain crust made of chopped suet and flour mixed with water1 and simply rolled out once an inch thick2 cut up a pound of round steak1 and sprinkle with flour1 pepper1 and salt2 chop a small onion fine1 put all into the lined basin1 add a cup of water1 cover over with the suet crust1 and tie it in a well-floured cloth4 ,have a saucepan full of water boiling rapidly1 and put the basin in1 the opening downwards2 leave the lid off the saucepan1 and let it boil two and one half hours1 adding water if it boils away4 ,a sheep's kidney cut up small adds richness to the gravy4 ,sidenote3 ,menus4 ,sometimes1 where great economy must be practised1 and the sum allowed for the entire meal for three people is only sixty cents1 it is difficult to remember just such accessories in the way of vegetables as are as inexpensive in their way as the meat1 and for this reason the following very modest menus are offered as samples of what can be accomplished in the way of very inexpensive dinners4 ,,dinner ,no4 #a ,,potato ,,balls1 ,,scotch ,,broth1 ,,turnips ,,with ,,white ,,sauce1 ,,tapioca ,,and ,,apples ,this is an excellent winter dinner4 ,scotch ,broth4--,buy for four persons one pound or one and a quarter pounds of scrag of mutton2 chop it into pieces1 and put it into an iron pot with one quart of water1 one large onion cut into slices1 and a small cupful of pearl barley4 ,let it simmer for two hours1 adding a little water if it becomes too thick4 ,serve boiling hot with the mutton in it4 ,this is very inexpensive4 ,the scrag of mutton costs from eight to ten cents2 the barley is eight cents a pound--about two cents' worth is sufficient2 the onion may be reckoned as one cent4 ,it can be made a little more costly by buying what is called the best end of the neck4 ,six or eight chops would weigh the pound and a quarter required1 and would cost perhaps twelve to fourteen cents4 ,the chops look somewhat better than the chopped-up scrag1 but the nourishing quality is as good in the latter4 ,potato ,balls4--,choose large potatoes1 and with a scoop cut out small balls2 boil these and serve them sprinkled with chopped parsley4 ,turnips4--,cut into small dice1 boil until tender1 throw away the water1 and serve with a white sauce made of milk1 flour1 and a teaspoonful of butter4 ,two turnips are sufficient for a dish4 ,tapioca and ,apples4--,apples are cheap early in the winter4 ,three or four at a cent apiece should be pared and cored1 and placed in a low baking-dish with two dessertspoonfuls of tapioca1 and enough water to cover the whole4 ,bake in a slow oven4 ,by soaking the tapioca over night a less quantity will do1 say1 one and a quarter spoonfuls4 ,n4 ,b4--,both sago and tapioca are very economical because1 when soaked over night1 they swell greatly1 and they can both be cooked with water1 instead of milk1 with good results4 ,,dinner ,no4 #b ,,stuffed ,,potatoes1 ,,veal ,,with ,,white ,,sauce1 ,,purified ,,cabbage1 ,,rennet ,,custard ,buy one and a quarter pounds of leg of veal at ten cents a pound2 cut the meat into dice1 and place it in a stew-pan with a piece of mace and a pint of milk4 ,place it back of the fire so that it will not burn1 and thicken it before serving with a teaspoonful of flour4 ,stuffed ,potatoes4--,bake four large potatoes until nearly done2 then cut in half1 remove the insides1 beat them up with milk1 replace in the skins1 and serve in a pyramid4 ,purified ,cabbage4--,cut a cabbage into thin strips as if for salad2 boil it in salted water1 but every time the water comes to the boiling point throw it away for three successive times2 after the third boiling use milk instead of water1 and add a little nutmeg4 ,if nicely cooked in this way1 cabbage is as palatable and as digestible as cauliflower4 ,,dinner ,no4 #c ,,stewed ,,carrots1 ,,chops ,,with ,,parsley ,,sauce1 ,,cream ,,potatoes1 ,,apple ,,dumplings ,chops cut from the shoulder of mutton are cheaper than either neck or loin chops1 and are as good1 perhaps better1 for boiling4 ,put the chops on in enough cold water to cover them2 let them simmer for half an hour1 and at the end of that time come just to a boil2 pour off the liquor into the stock-pot1 and lay the chops on a hot dish2 make some white sauce of one ounce of butter1 one teaspoonful of flour1 and a cup of milk2 add chopped parsley1 and pour over the chops4 ,to stew carrots cut them in very thin rounds1 lay them in a stew-pan with enough water to more than cover4 ,let them boil till tender1 about one quarter of an hour2 then thicken the liquor with flour1 and add a tiny bit of butter4 ,,dinner ,no4 #d ,,boiled ,,onions1 ,,curry1 ,,rice1 ,,stewed ,,prunes ,curry can be made of a variety of materials4 ,the best for the purpose are the white meats1 veal1 pork1 or chicken2 and although curried cooked meat is a satisfactory substitute for hash1 it is not on the whole commendable4 ,the ,indian receipt for ordinary curry is as follows3 ,cut the fowl or meat into joints or fair-sized pieces2 dip each piece in curry powder1 or sprinkle freely with it2 cut up a large onion1 and have a clove of garlic4 ,put all together in a frying-pan1 the bottom of which is covered with melted butter 7drippings or lard will do72 fry until thoroughly brown1 turning continually4 ,when brown1 remove meat into a stew-pan2 make a gravy with flour and water 7or stock7 in the frying-pan from which the meat was taken2 strain it over the meat1 and then add a few drops of lemon1 or a little ,worcester sauce--and set the stew-pan on the side of the stove and let it simmer for two hours4 ,the meat should be so tender that it can be readily separated by a fork4 ,a knife should never be used4 ,eggs make a delicious curry4 ,boil them hard1 shell1 and cut in halves2 make a curry gravy as above1 and pour over them4 ,serve with rice around the dish4 ,rice4--,the proper way to serve rice with curry is perfectly dry1 and this is best secured by throwing a cupful 7for an ordinary dish7 into water which is already boiling hard4 ,let it continue to boil rapidly until the water has all boiled away1 leaving the lid off4 ,the rice will then be almost tender1 and by removing to the side of the stove the evaporation will continue1 and the rice drying off will be easily separable grain from grain1 which is the proper way4 ,the success of this method depends upon having plenty of water in the first instance4 ,madras curry is differently made1 and is served dry4 ,for it1 proceed as for the other curry by frying all the ingredients together in butter or drippings1 but when brown continue to fry until the meat is done2 then at the last moment add a sprinkling of curry powder1 shake the pan1 and turn all the contents onto a hot dish4 ,serve with rice4 ,,dinner ,no4 #e ,,brussels ,,sprouts1 ,,liver ,,saute1 ,,potatoes1 ,,rice ,,pudding ,calf's liver can be so cooked as to be both delicate and easily digested4 ,the ,german method is a very good one4 ,remove any outer skin1 and cut the liver into very thin slices4 ,have a pan with salted boiling water and throw in the liver4 ,it will require only about five minutes' cooking if the slices are thin enough4 ,take them out1 lay them on a hot dish1 and make a gravy by frying a cut-up onion and when brown pouring in the liquor used to boil the liver1 thickening with flour and browning if necessary4 ,add at the last moment one half a large spoonful of vinegar4 ,liver balls may be made by using the liver left over1 chopping it very fine with an onion1 some sage1 or thyme 7as may be preferred71 bread-crumbs and a beaten egg1 and frying in hot lard4 ,liver should be accompanied by a green vegetable1 for which reason ,brussels sprouts are suggested4 ,they should be cooked in salted water1 drained1 and served with white sauce1 flavored with nutmeg4 ,,dinner ,no4 #f ,,fried ,,sweet ,,potatoes1 ,,breast ,,of ,,mutton1 ,,caper ,,sauce1 ,,string-,,beans 7,,ten ,,cents ,a ,,can71 ,,apple ,,pie ,breast of mutton is the cheapest of all mutton1 and being very fat1 is considered unprofitable1 but by care it can be made both palatable and economical4 ,buy about three pounds of breast2 place it in a pan over a slow fire until a good deal of the fat has melted1 but avoid letting it brown2 pour away the fat as it melts1 and when fairly free of it place the meat in a stew-pan with an onion cut up1 and enough water to cover it1 and a little thyme4 ,let it cook very slowly1 only simmering for two hours2 then lay on a hot dish1 and pour caper sauce over it4 ,if it is still fat skim often while simmering4 ,,some ,,cheap ,,soups ,tomato4--,turn a can of tomatoes into a stew-pan1 and let come to a boil2 fry some bread in dice1 place them at the bottom of a soup tureen1 and rub the tomatoes through a colander over them2 put the pulp left in the colander back into the stewpan2 add water1 let it boil up1 and strain again into the tureen2 stir in a teaspoonful of butter1 season with pepper and salt1 and serve4 ,carrot4--,boil half a dozen large carrots until quite tender2 then rub them through a colander into a saucepan2 add a pint and a half of water to the pulp1 and boil2 thicken with a little flour1 and add a teaspoonful of butter1 pepper and salt4 ,potato4--,boil half a dozen large potatoes2 rub them through a sieve 7coarse hair is the best7 into a saucepan in which there have been placed a shredded onion1 some chopped parsley1 and about a cupful of milk4 ,stir in the potato pulp1 and thin with water4 ,season with pepper and salt4 ,bean4--,soak some beans over night1 boil for one hour2 add an onion when nearly soft1 rub them through a colander into a tureen in which have been already placed some onions fried in butter or lard1 and add water if too thick4 ,celery4--,take the cast-off leaves and hard ends of a bunch of celery1 and let them boil until perfectly shredded2 then strain the water into some thickened milk1 and let it all come to the boiling point1 but not boil4 ,season with butter1 pepper and salt4 ,it is a very good addition to this soup to break an egg into the tureen1 and pour the soup upon it4 ,stock can be used in any of these soups instead of water4 ,,part ,,iii ,,miscellaneous ,,receipts ,,sterilized ,,milk ,the subject of bacteria in foods has of late become a matter of careful scientific study1 and the fact has been established that milk is one of the most subtle of disease-carriers4 ,hence every careful mother1 before giving it to her children1 subjects it to the sterilizing process1 which is simply raising it to the degree of heat which destroys the germs4 ,it is found1 however1 that this does not kill the spores or seeds of the bacilli1 and so the operation is but a partially successful expedient4 7,to render it really sterile requires heating several times on successive days47 ,it has also been found that sterilizing milk robs it of its antiscorbutic qualities1 and that children fed entirely upon it are subject to bleeding gums and other symptoms of scurvy4 ,milk should be fresh as possible1 as the longer it stands the greater will be the number of bacteria1 and less rich the milk in the substances on which they feed4 ,the first point to emphasize in the simple process of sterilization is perfect cleanliness4 ,rounded bottles should be used1 as they are easier to clean4 ,they should be well rinsed as soon as emptied1 and left to soak in soda and water1 and before use they should be subjected to a good scrubbing with scalding water and a piece of cloth tied onto a stick or wire4 ,the brushes made for cleaning bottles should be avoided1 as they are more than likely to be full of germs themselves4 ,turn the fresh milk into the bottles as soon as cleaned4 ,fill them to within an inch of the top1 and stop them with antiseptic cotton4 ,the sterilizing is effected by keeping the bottles in boiling water or in live steam for at least half an hour4 ,the water in the boiler should be cold at first1 and the heat raised gradually4 ,this1 as well as not letting the bottles rest on the bottom of the kettle1 will prevent their breaking4 ,sterilizers are made which are both cheap and convenient1 but any kettle well covered will answer the purpose4 ,the time for cooking should be counted from the moment the water boils4 ,let the bottles remain in the water until cooled1 and do not remove the stopper until the milk is to be used4 ,,devonshire ,,cream1 ,no4 #a 7,,receipt ,,obtained ,,in ,,england47 ,put a panful of milk in a cold place for twenty-four hours1 or in summer for twelve hours4 ,then place it on the fire1 and let it come very slowly to the scalding-point1 but do not let it boil4 ,put it again in a cool place for six or twelve hours1 and then take off the cream1 which will be firm and of a peculiarly sweet flavor4 ,,devonshire ,,cream1 ,no4 #b ,put the fresh milk on the fire1 and let it very slowly come to the scalding-point1 but do not let it boil4 ,leave it on the fire for about half an hour1 then remove to a cold place1 and let it stand for six hours1 or until the cream has all risen4 ,devonshire cream is thick and clotted1 and is used on fruits1 mush1 etc4 ,it will keep for some time1 and is particularly delicious4 ,,fresh ,,butter ,the ,french use for table butter that which is freshly made and without salt4 ,one soon learns to prefer it to the best salted butter4 ,it is very easy to make fresh butter1 but not always easy to buy it1 for it keeps only a day at its best1 and therefore the surest way of having it good is to make it4 ,take a half pint of double cream2 turn it into a bowl1 and with a wire whip beat it until the butter forms4 ,this will take but a few minutes1 if the cream is of the right temperature 7#fe deg474 7,if very cold1 it will whip to froth as it is prepared for whipped cream47 ,turn off the milk2 add some ice water1 and work the butter until it is firm and free from milk2 then press it into pats1 and keep it in a tight jar on the ice until ready to use4 ,this amount of cream1 which costs ten cents1 will1 if rich1 give a quarter of a pound of butter4 ,put some fresh grass or some clover blossoms in the jar with the butter1 and it will absorb their flavor4 7,see illustration facing page #bef47 ,illustration3 ,,butter ,,pats ,,and ,,molded ,,butter4 7,,see ,,page #beh47 #a4 ,shells made with ,no4 #e4 #b4 ,balls made with ,no4 #g4 #c4 ,small pats made with ,no4 #f4 #d4 ,rolls made with ,no4 #g4 ,,to ,,make ,,white ,,hard ,,soap ,save every scrap of fat each day2 try out all that has accumulated1 however small the quantity4 ,this is done by placing the scraps in a frying-pan on the back of the range4 ,if the heat is low1 and the grease is not allowed to get hot enough to smoke or burn1 there will be no odor from it4 ,turn the melted grease into lard-pails and keep them covered4 ,when six pounds of fat have been obtained1 turn it into a dish-pan2 add a generous amount of hot water1 and stand it on the range until the grease is entirely melted4 ,stir it well together2 then stand it aside to cool4 ,this is clarifying the grease4 ,the clean grease will rise to the top1 and when it has cooled can be taken off in a cake1 and such impurities as have not settled in the water1 can be scraped off the bottom of the cake of fat4 ,put the clean grease into the dish-pan and melt it4 ,put a can of ,babbitt's lye in a lard-pail2 add to it a quart of cold water1 and stir it with a stick or wooden spoon until it is dissolved4 ,it will get hot when the water is added2 let it stand until it cools4 ,remove the melted grease from the fire1 and pour in the lye slowly1 stirring all the time4 ,add two tablespoonfuls of ammonia4 ,stir the mixture constantly for twenty minutes or half an hour1 or until the soap begins to set4 ,let it stand until perfectly hard2 then cut it into square cakes4 ,this makes a very good1 white hard soap which will float on water4 ,it is very little trouble to make1 and will be found quite an economy in a household4 ,six pounds of grease make eight and a half pounds of soap4 ,,floor ,,polish #d ounces of beeswax4 #a quart of turpentine4 ,piece of resin size of hickory nut4 ,cut up the beeswax and pound the resin4 ,melt them together4 ,take them from the fire and stir in a quart of turpentine4 ,rub very little on the floor with a piece of flannel2 then polish with a dry flannel and a brush4 ,,chapter ,x ,,eggs ,there is a best way of doing everything1 even if it be to boil an egg4--,emerson4 ,the variety of purposes which eggs serve1 the many ways of cooking them1 their value as a highly concentrated1 nutritious1 and easily-digested food1 make them one of the most useful articles of food4 ,to have them fresh and rightly cooked is within the power of the simplest household4 ,they hold the principal place as a breakfast dish1 and although the original methods of cooking them may be limited to boiling1 baking1 poaching1 etc41 each one of these can be varied in an indefinite number of ways1 giving a menu of eggs unlimited in extent1 and thus securing always a new way of presenting them1 if desired4 ,urbain ,dubois has recently published a book giving #cjj ways of preparing eggs4 ,the varieties are attained mostly by the sauces and garnishings4 ,it is not generally understood that sauces can be served with poached1 hard-boiled1 and scrambled eggs1 and also with omelets4 ,sidenote3 ,to judge of freshness and how to preserve eggs4 ,sidenote3 ,how to pack4 ,a fresh egg should feel heavy1 sink in water1 and when held to a bright light1 show a clear round yolk4 ,if old1 a part of the substance will have evaporated through the pores of the shell1 leaving a space filled with air1 which will cause it to float on water4 ,it will also contain dark specks4 ,to preserve eggs it is necessary to stop the pores of the shells with a coating of fat or gum or wax4 ,this will prevent the air from entering and decomposing the nitrogenous elements of the egg4 ,they should be packed standing on the small end1 and kept in a cool1 dark place4 ,another way of preserving them is to immerse them in a saturated solution of lime4 ,,boiled ,,eggs ,soft-boiled eggs should have the albumen creamy1 not hard4 ,to obtain this1 slow heat is required4 ,hence receipt ,no4 #a is recommended4 ,no4 #b gives a soft egg1 but the time is difficult to determine exactly4 ,no4 #c gives satisfactory results4 ,to have eggs hard boil them for twenty-five minutes4 ,the yolks will then be dry and mealy4 ,when done1 place them in cold water for fifteen minutes4 ,then roll them lightly on the table to crush the shells1 which can then be peeled off easily1 leaving the surface smooth and white4 ,use a sharp1 thin knife for cutting them so the pieces will be clean and smooth4 ,no4 #a ,place the eggs in warm water to heat the shells so they will not crack when put into boiling water4 ,let the water in the saucepan boil violently2 put in the eggs carefully1 and when the water again bubbles1 remove it from the fire2 cover and let the eggs remain in it for five minutes4 ,no4 #b ,put the eggs into boiling water and cook for three minutes1 the water boiling all the time4 ,no4 #c ,place the eggs in cold water on the fire1 and remove as soon as the water boils4 ,,poached ,,eggs1 ,no4 #a ,the white of a poached egg should be a white1 translucent1 jelly-like mass4 ,to obtain this result1 which makes it an easily digested food1 it must cook very slowly1 the water never reaching the boiling-point4 ,place in a shallow pan as many muffin-rings as you have eggs to poach4 ,turn in enough boiling water to just cover the rings2 add a little salt4 ,when the water boils1 draw the pan to the side of the range1 and break an egg into each ring4 ,it should take at least ten to fifteen minutes to cook the eggs to the translucent state desired4 ,have ready even pieces of toast one half inch thick1 cut into rounds a trifle larger than the muffin-rings4 ,moisten them with hot water1 and spread with a little butter4 ,remove the eggs carefully on a skimmer or pancake turner1 and place one on each round of toast2 then lift off carefully the rings1 and place a spot of pepper in the center of each yolk4 ,arrange them symmetrically on a dish1 and garnish with parsley4 ,,french ,,poached ,,eggs1 ,no4 #b ,these eggs1 when properly cooked1 are in the shape of balls1 and are used for fancy egg-dishes4 ,have in a deep saucepan a generous amount of water2 add a little salt and vinegar2 the salt to raise the heat of the water1 the vinegar to harden the white of the egg4 ,when the water is violently boiling1 crack the shell of the egg1 and holding it close to the water1 drop the contents quickly on the point of greatest ebullition4 ,the egg should drop all at once1 not drain into the water4 ,the mass will then be whole1 and the violently agitated water will toss it about1 giving it a round form4 ,when sufficiently firm to hold1 remove with a skimmer and place carefully on the bottom of an inverted tin to drain4 ,poach but one egg at a time1 and remove it before the yolk hardens4 ,,poached ,,egg1 ,no4 #c ,add a dash of salt to the white of an egg and whip it to a froth4 ,place this in a deep saucer or cup1 and place in the center the whole unbroken yolk4 ,set the dish in a pan of boiling water2 cover and let cook for two minutes4 ,this is a good way to serve an egg to an invalid4 ,illustration3 ,,poached ,,egg4 ,,no4 #c4 7,,see ,,page #bfc47 ,,fried ,,eggs ,place a little butter in a very clean frying-pan4 ,when it bubbles1 turn in the eggs1 one at a time1 and keep the pan where the heat is not sufficient to blacken the butter4 ,if the eggs are wanted hard1 turn and fry them on both sides like a pancake4 ,,scrambled ,,eggs ,beat the eggs lightly with a fork1 just enough to break them4 ,to four eggs add two tablespoonfuls of milk1 one half teaspoonful of salt1 and a dash of pepper4 ,put into a very clean frying-pan one half tablespoonful of butter4 ,when it begins to bubble1 turn in the eggs1 and stir them constantly over a slow fire until they begin to set2 then remove them from the fire and continue to stir until they are of the right consistency4 ,the heat of the pan will be sufficient to finish the cooking1 and there will not be danger of their being overcooked4 ,they should be firm only1 not hard4 ,if the pan is perfectly clean1 and the butter is not allowed to burn1 they will have a bright clean color4 ,scrambled eggs may be varied the same as omelets1 by mixing with them any other thing desired4 ,the extra material should be added when the pan is taken from the fire1 and stirred with the egg until it has finished cooking4 ,a teaspoonful of parsley1 chopped fine1 gives a good flavor and simple change4 ,a little puree of tomatoes added makes a good combination4 ,with minced chicken1 veal1 ham1 fried bacon1 mushrooms1 or sweetbreads1 it makes a good luncheon dish4 ,any pieces left over will serve the purpose1 as very little is required4 ,garnish the dish with croutons and parsley4 ,,plain ,,french ,,omelet ,an omelet is the most difficult to prepare of any egg dish4 ,it requires some practice to give it the right shape 7which is high in the center and pointed at the ends71 to have it soft inside1 to give it a smooth1 slightly browned surface1 a texture like scrambled eggs1 and to have everything perfect4 ,the first essential is to have a perfectly clean and smooth pan4 ,it is difficult to make a smooth omelet in a pan used for other purposes2 so it is well to have one kept for this use alone4 ,the ,french do not wash the omelet-pan1 but scour it smooth with salt and vinegar when it sticks1 and at other times rub it clean with a dry cloth4 ,before using the pan scour it well with dry salt to give it extra smoothness4 ,it is better to make several small omelets than one large one1 using not more than three or four eggs for each one4 ,beat the eggs just enough to break them4 ,the rule is twelve beats4 ,to three eggs add a half teaspoonful of salt1 a dash of pepper1 and a half teaspoonful of butter broken into small bits4 ,a teaspoonful of milk may be used or not4 ,have the pan evenly heated and hot1 but not scorching4 ,put in a half teaspoonful of butter and let it run evenly over the pan1 but not brown2 turn in the eggs4 ,with a knife or fork break the cooked surface in several places quickly1 so the egg from the top may run to the bottom and cook1 or press the egg away from the sides1 letting the uncooked part run under4 ,this must be done in the beginning so as not to make the surface uneven4 ,when the egg is cooked1 but yet quite soft on the top1 lift the pan on one side1 slip the knife under1 and carefully roll the omelet to the center4 ,let it cook a moment to set any egg that has run out1 and if the color is not right add a little butter1 and let it run under and slightly color the omelet4 ,place a hot dish over the pan and turn them together so the omelet will fall in the right place2 press it into good shape1 doubling it under on the ends if necessary4 ,garnish with parsley and serve at once4 ,have everything ready before beginning to cook an omelet1 as it will not bear being kept while the dish is heated1 and the garnishing found4 ,,variations ,,of ,,the ,,omelet ,no4 #a4 ,sprinkle a little parsley1 chopped fine1 over the top4 ,no4 #b4 ,turn tomato1 ,bechamel or mushroom sauce on the dish around the omelet2 sprinkle the top with chopped mushrooms1 if that sauce is used4 ,garnish with pointed croutons4 ,no4 #c4 ,green omelet4 ,mix chopped parsley with the egg mixture before cooking the omelet1 and do not brown the surface4 ,no4 #d4 ,aux ,fines ,herbes4 ,chop parsley1 chives1 chervil1 and tarragon very fine4 ,mix them with the egg mixture before cooking4 ,when the omelet is turned out1 rub over it a little maitre d'hotel butter 7see page #bhf74 ,no4 #e4 ,with ,peas or ,tomatoes4 ,before turning a plain omelet1 spread it with a few green peas or tomatoes cooked and seasoned4 ,asparagus or any other vegetable may be used in the same way4 ,no4 #f4 ,with ,ham4 ,spread the plain omelet with ham1 chopped fine1 before turning it4 ,any other cooked meat may be used in the same way4 ,,beaten ,,omelet ,beat very light the yolks and whites of three eggs separately4 ,season the yolks with salt and pepper and one tablespoonful of milk2 then fold in lightly the whipped whites4 ,put a half teaspoonful of butter in a hot frying or omelet pan4 ,let it run over the bottom and sides of the pan1 but do not let it brown4 ,turn in the egg mixture1 spread it lightly and evenly over the pan1 and let it cook until it forms a very light crust on the bottom2 then place it in the oven about three minutes1 or until the egg is cooked through1 but not hard2 fold it once1 and turn it onto a hot dish4 ,this omelet may be used the same as the ,french omelet in combination with other things4 ,spread anything so used on the omelet before turning it4 ,for a sweet omelet add sugar to the yolks1 and omit the pepper4 ,serve at once4 ,,shirred ,,eggs 7,,sur ,,le ,,plat 444 ,,au ,,miroir 444 ,,cocotte47 ,for this dish 7sur le plat7 individual china dishes are generally used1 although a dish holding several eggs will do4 ,butter the dishes2 break into each one an egg2 sprinkle a little salt on the whites1 but not on the yolks4 ,place them on the shelf of the oven so the heat will be greatest on top2 baste the yolks several times while baking with a little hot butter4 ,this will give them a glaze4 ,as soon as the glaze appears remove them from the oven1 and if not sufficiently cooked1 stand them for a minute on the top of the range4 ,care must be used not to dry the eggs4 ,several eggs cooked together in this way in a large dish1 then cut into circles with a biscuit cutter1 and placed on broiled ham1 stewed kidneys1 minced meat1 tomato puree1 or other things1 are called eggs au miroir4 ,when baked in individual dishes1 they may be varied by sprinkling in the dish before the egg is added a little chopped ham1 chicken1 mushrooms1 or tomato puree1 etc4 ,when baked in little pot-shaped dishes in the same way they are called cocottes4 ,these may be varied by lining the dishes with a thin layer of forcemeat or minced meat1 the eggs then dropped in and poached by standing the dishes in a pan of water in the oven4 ,when done1 a little cream or ,bechamel sauce or tomato puree is turned over the top1 and sprinkled with parsley4 ,serve eggs sur le plat and cocotte in the dishes in which they are baked4 ,illustration3 #a4 ,,shirred ,,egg4 #b4 ,,cocotte4 7,,see ,,page #bff47 ,,molded ,,eggs 7,a ,,la ,,polignac7 ,butter well some individual timbale molds2 chop some parsley very fine1 and powder the inside of the buttered molds with it4 ,to do this1 place a teaspoonful of the parsley in a buttered mold1 cover it with the hand and shake it well2 then invert the mold1 and strike it on the table to free it of all that is loose4 ,break into each mold an egg1 letting it go in slowly from the side so no air bubbles will be held1 as they make holes and uneven surface in the cooked egg4 ,sprinkle the top with salt and butter4 ,place the molds in a pan of hot water1 half covering them1 and poach in a moderate oven eight to ten minutes1 or until firm enough to stand1 but not very hard4 ,serve them on a flat dish with a spoonful of white1 ,bechamel1 or tomato sauce under each form4 ,this is a very simple way of preparing eggs1 and makes a good luncheon dish4 ,illustration3 ,,molded ,,eggs ,a ,,la ,,polignac4 7,,see ,,page #bfg47 ,,molded ,,ham ,,and ,,eggs ,mince some boiled ham very fine4 ,moisten it with white sauce and raw egg1 just enough to make a consistent paste4 ,line individual buttered timbale molds with a thin layer of the ham paste4 ,break an egg in the center of each one1 and poach them in the oven eight to ten minutes1 as directed for eggs a la ,polignac4 ,place a little white or ,bechamel sauce on the serving dish2 turn the eggs onto it1 and put a spoonful of sauce on the top of each one1 letting it run over1 and partly mask them1 as the color of the ham is not attractive4 ,garnish with parsley4 ,another receipt for ham and eggs is given on page #agh4 ,any other meat may be used in the same way4 ,,poached ,,eggs ,,on ,,anchovy ,,toast 7,a ,,supper ,,dish7 ,cut toasted bread into circles2 spread them with anchovy paste1 and place on each piece a poached egg prepared as directed in receipt ,no4 #a4 ,,poached ,,eggs ,,with ,,anchovy 7,,an ,,entree ,,for ,,luncheon7 ,cut bread into circles and toast them2 spread them lightly first with anchovy paste1 then with a layer of ham or tongue chopped very fine1 seasoned well1 and a little moistened with stock or white sauce4 ,cover the top with whipped white of egg2 place a raw yolk in the center of each one4 ,bake them in the oven for one minute1 or just long enough to well heat the egg4 ,,poached ,,egg ,,with ,,tomato ,cut bread into slices three quarters of an inch thick1 then into circles4 ,with a smaller cutter cut half way through the bread1 and remove the center1 leaving a form like a patty case4 ,fry them in hot fat to an amber color2 fill the centers with well seasoned tomato puree1 and place on the top of each one a ,french poached egg4 ,,eggs ,a ,,la ,,villeroi ,this dish is served as an entree for luncheon1 and is a particularly good as well as mysterious dish1 for having a soft egg inside a croquette seems a difficult thing to get4 ,poach the eggs ,french style 7page #bfc71 using care to have them round and just firm enough to hold in shape4 ,lift them carefully on a strainer1 and place them on the bottom of an inverted pan1 leaving a space between them4 ,when they are cold trim them1 carefully removing any ragged ends of white1 and wipe them dry4 ,make a ,villeroi sauce as directed 7page #bhj74 ,when it is partly cooled1 pour it with a spoon over the eggs4 ,it should form a thick coating4 ,when it is cold and well set1 trim each egg neatly again1 cutting away any of the sauce that has run over the pan4 ,have some soft1 white crumbs1 grated from the loaf or rubbed through a coarse sieve1 and mixed with grated cheese4 ,lift an egg on a broad knife1 and place it on the crumbs4 ,cover it with as many crumbs as will adhere4 ,lift it again on the knife into a dish containing beaten egg1 and with a spoon moisten it well with the egg4 ,then place it on fresh1 white crumbs that are not mixed with cheese1 and cover it completely4 ,it can now be handled with care and turned into good shape in the crumbs4 ,let the breaded eggs stand until just ready to serve1 then place three or four at a time in a wire basket1 and plunge them in smoking hot fat 7see frying1 page #gb7 to take a delicate color4 ,do not let them become deeper than lemon color4 ,place a spoonful of ,villeroi sauce on each plate1 using the sauce left from coating the eggs and thinning it with stock2 place an egg on the sauce and serve at once4 ,chopped truffles mixed with the sauce improves it4 ,,eggs ,a ,,la ,,bourguinonne ,poach eggs in the ,french style1 letting them be as soft as possible4 ,butter a flat baking-dish2 sprinkle it with bread crumbs and grated cheese4 ,place on them carefully the poached eggs4 ,cover them with ,bechamel or ,allemande sauce 7see page #bgi71 and sprinkle over the top grated ,parmesan cheese4 ,place in a hot oven to melt the cheese1 and lightly brown the top4 ,,eggs ,a ,l',,aurore ,take six hard-boiled eggs1 and press the yolks through a colander4 ,cut the whites into half-inch dice1 mix them with a well-reduced white or ,bechamel sauce1 and turn them into a flat baking-dish4 ,cover the top with the mashed yolks1 dot it with small bits of butter1 and place in a hot oven for a few minutes to heat1 but not brown4 ,this may be served in individual cups or shells if desired4 ,chopped mushrooms mixed with the sauce makes a good variation of the dish4 ,another way of serving it is to cut the whites lengthwise into quarters or eighths1 and place them in a circle on the dish2 pour the sauce in the center1 leaving the points of one end uncovered1 and sprinkle over the sauce the mashed yolks4 ,in order not to have the dish cold when served in this way1 keep the cut whites in hot water until ready to serve4 ,have the dish hot1 and put all together quickly at the moment of serving4 7,see illustration47 ,illustration3 ,,eggs ,a ,l',,aurore4 7,,see ,,page #bgj47 ,,golden ,,cream ,,toast ,cut bread into even pieces2 toast and butter the pieces1 and moisten them with hot water4 ,boil six eggs hard4 ,separate the whites from the yolks2 chop the whites1 and press the yolks through a colander or sieve4 ,make a white sauce1 using one tablespoonful each of butter and flour cooked together1 and then add a cupful of cream or milk4 ,when it is well thickened add the chopped whites1 and season with pepper and salt4 ,spread this mixture on the slices of toast1 and cover the top with the mashed yolks4 ,sprinkle the yolks evenly over the pieces1 so they look very yellow4 ,serve very hot4 ,,curried ,,eggs ,boil the eggs hard2 remove the shells carefully as directed 7page #bfb71 and drop them in hot water to keep warm until ready to use4 ,mold some boiled rice into a form resembling a nest4 ,have the rice boiled so each grain is distinct 7see page #bbb74 ,place it on the hot shelf to keep warm4 ,place a teaspoonful of chopped onion in a saucepan with a tablespoonful of butter1 and cook until the onion is a light yellow1 but not brown4 ,add an even tablespoonful of corn starch1 mixed with a half tablespoonful of curry powder and diluted with a little cold milk or stock1 then stir in slowly one and a half cupfuls of white stock or milk4 ,let it cook until the corn starch is clear2 add pepper and salt to taste1 and strain it4 ,the sauce should be a bright yellow color1 perfectly smooth1 and not very thick4 ,wipe the eggs dry1 roll them in the sauce to get evenly coated with color1 and place them in the nest of rice4 ,pour in enough sauce to moisten the rice without discoloring the outside or top edge of the rice around the eggs4 7,see illustration47 ,illustration3 ,,curried ,,eggs ,,in ,a ,,nest ,,of ,,rice4 7,,see ,,page #bga47 ,,stuffed ,,eggs ,no4 #a ,cut hard-boiled eggs in two lengthwise4 ,take out carefully the yolks1 mash them1 and mix them with some chicken or other meat minced fine4 ,season the mixture with pepper and salt4 ,moisten it with a little of any kind of sauce or gravy1 and add a little raw egg4 ,chopped truffles and mushrooms may be added to the stuffing if convenient4 ,fill the spaces in the whites of the eggs with the mixture2 smooth it even with the top2 rub a little raw white of egg over the pieces1 and press two halves together4 ,roll the stuffed eggs in egg and crumbs1 and fry in hot fat to a lemon color4 ,serve the eggs on a napkin1 and pass with them a white1 ,bechamel1 tomato1 or any other sauce4 ,,stuffed ,,eggs ,no4 #b ,cut hard-boiled eggs in halves4 ,take out the yolks1 leaving two cup-shaped pieces4 ,mix the yolks with an equal quantity of softened bread2 season with salt1 pepper1 and parsley4 ,add a little raw egg to bind the mixture1 and fill the spaces from which the yolks were taken4 ,round it on top to give the appearance of a whole yolk4 ,cut a little slice off the bottom of the egg1 so it will stand firm4 ,place them in the oven just long enough to heat1 and serve standing1 on a dish covered with white sauce4 ,,egg ,,croquettes ,cut some hard-boiled eggs into quarter-inch dice4 ,mix with them some chopped mushrooms4 ,stir them carefully into a well-reduced ,bechamel or white sauce made as directed for croquettes 7page #bic74 ,turn the mixture onto a cold dish to cool and stiffen4 ,mold into croquettes1 and fry in hot fat4 ,see directions for croquettes 7page #bic74 ,,other ,,ways ,,of ,,serving ,,hard-,,boiled ,,eggs 7,,luncheon ,,dishes7 ,no4 #a4 ,cut hard-boiled eggs in two lengthwise4 ,arrange them symmetrically on a flat dish1 and pour over them a giblet sauce made of chicken or turkey gravy4 ,no4 #b4 ,cut hard-boiled eggs into quarters4 ,make a ring form of boiled rice2 fill the center with the eggs2 pour over them some ,bechamel sauce4 ,sprinkle the whole with bread-crumbs and grated cheese4 ,moisten the top with melted butter1 and place in the oven to brown4 ,serve on the dish in which they are browned4 ,,tomatoes ,,stuffed ,,with ,,eggs ,select round tomatoes of uniform size2 remove the skins4 ,cut a slice off the tops1 and take out the seeds and soft pulp4 ,drop into each one a raw egg1 and replace the cover4 ,set the tomatoes into a buttered pan or into a baking-dish which can be sent to the table1 and place in the oven for about ten minutes1 or until the egg has set4 ,serve on the same dish and with a brown or a ,bechamel sauce4 ,,eggs ,a ,,la ,,reine ,,down ,,town ,,club ,make croustades1 three inches in diameter and half an inch thick1 from stale ,american bread4 ,dip them in good melted butter1 put them on a pan in the oven until they are a nice light-brown color2 then take out the center of each croustade and fill with foie gras4 ,on the top of each put a poached egg2 then pour over a cream sauce1 sprinkle with truffles chopped fine1 and serve immediately4 ,,eggs ,,livingston ,,down ,,town ,,club4 7,,for ,,six ,,persons7 ,take twelve raw eggs1 half a pint of rich cream2 beat well together1 add salt and pepper4 ,put the mixture in a flat saucepan well buttered1 and scramble2 then add three quarters of a pint of well-cooked tomato meat and three truffles hashed 7not too fine74 ,dress on toast covered with pate de foie gras4 ,serve very hot4 ,,eggs ,,au ,,beurre ,,noir ,poach or fry the number of eggs desired and place them on a flat dish4 ,pour over them enough brown butter sauce to well moisten them4 7,see page #bia47 ,,spanish ,,omelet ,make a plain ,french omelet1 using four eggs 7see page #bfd74 ,just before it is done place in the center a veal kidney1 which has been well soaked1 then cut into half-inch dice and sauted until tender in a tablespoonful of butter4 ,do not cook the kidney too long or it will toughen4 ,fold the omelet and turn it onto a dish4 ,pour around the omelet a tomato sauce 7see page #bhe74 ,spread over the top of the omelet a sweet green pepper1 which has been boiled until tender and then cut into narrow strips4 ,the sauce1 the kidney and the pepper should be prepared first1 as the omelet must be served as soon as the eggs are cooked4 ,,chapter ,,xi ,,sauces ,there are many sauces besides hunger4 ,sidenote3 ,general directions4 ,the basis of most sauces is butter and flour cooked together1 which makes a roux or thickening4 ,if for a white sauce1 the flour is not colored2 if for a brown sauce1 the flour is cooked until brown4 ,to this basis are added the flavor and seasoning suited to the dish with which it is to be served4 ,for meats1 it is the flavor of meat1 vegetables1 spices1 and herbs2 for entrees1 it is the flavor of meat or chicken1 and cream2 for vegetables it is butter1 cream or milk1 and eggs2 for fish1 the same1 with a little lemon-juice or vinegar to give piquancy4 ,the basis of pudding sauces is butter and sugar4 ,sidenote3 ,uses and variations of the white sauce4 ,sauces are easily made1 and greatly improve the dishes they accompany4 ,many dishes depend upon sauces to make them palatable1 and many made-over dishes are very acceptable when served with a good sauce4 ,the first and most simple one to learn is the white sauce1 and this is used for very many dishes4 ,it is made by melting a tablespoonful of butter1 and then adding a tablespoonful of flour4 ,to this roux is added a half pint 7one cupful7 of milk for white sauce1 or of cream for cream sauce4 ,if a cupful of stock 7or half stock and half milk7 is used it becomes a ,bechamel sauce2 then1 if a couple of egg-yolks are added1 it makes a poulette sauce1 which is the one generally used with chicken1 sweetbreads1 oysters1 etc4 ,the superiority of ,french cooking is largely in the variety of their sauces1 to the preparation of which much care is given4 ,it cannot be too strongly urged that every housekeeper will give attention to this important branch of cooking4 ,sidenote3 ,stock for sauces4 ,every kitchen can produce a stock made from odds and ends unsuitable for other purposes than the stock-pot1 and this stock is most useful in preparing sauces1 giving a flavor not obtained in specially prepared stock4 ,a ,french cook keeps at hand the different essences required to combine in sauces1 such as a ,mirepoix 7vegetable flavor71 which is made by cutting into dice an onion1 carrot1 and turnip1 celery1 parsley1 bay-leaf and bits of meat1 frying them in fat pork or butter1 then adding a little water1 and simmering an hour1 or until the flavor of the vegetables is extracted2 a ,spanish sauce1 made by adding stock instead of water to the fried vegetables2 a veal or white stock2 a brown and a white roux1 and glaze4 ,sidenote3 ,general directions4 ,the flavor of vegetables can easily be obtained by frying them in the butter used in making the roux1 before the flour is added4 ,in preparing sauces with milk1 use a double boiler1 or set a small saucepan into a larger one containing water4 ,the milk will be scalded when the water boils in the double boiler4 ,brown sauces need long slow cooking to blend the flavors4 ,if the butter rises to the top add a little more stock or milk2 stir it well until it boils1 and it will then become smooth again4 ,do this just before serving4 ,have always a small strainer at hand1 and strain sauces so there will be no lumps in them4 ,if stock is not at hand1 substitute beef extract1 which comes in jars1 using it in the proportion of one teaspoonful of extract to a cupful of hot water4 ,in this case fry vegetables in the roux4 ,,glaze ,glaze is much used in high-class cooking4 ,it gives to meats a smooth and polished surface4 ,cold meats to be garnished for suppers are much improved in appearance by being glazed4 ,glaze is also added to sauces to give them richness and flavor4 ,to make glaze3 ,take good consomme of beef 7or a white stock1 when it is to be used for fowls or white meat71 clear it1 and reduce it to one quarter 7or one quart of stock to one cupful74 ,it will quickly boil down in an open saucepan and become like a thick paste4 ,it will keep some time if closed in a preserve jar and kept in a cool place4 ,when used1 heat it in a double saucepan and apply it with a brush4 ,,roux ,,for ,,sauces ,one tablespoonful of butter2 one tablespoonful of flour4 ,roux is used for thickening1 giving body to sauces1 etc4 ,it is made by cooking together an equal quantity of butter and flour for about five minutes1 or until the flour has lost the raw taste4 ,when the roux is cooked1 draw the saucepan to a cooler part of the range1 and add the liquor 7stock or milk7 slowly1 in the proportion of one cupful of liquor to one tablespoonful each of butter and flour1 and stir until smooth4 ,if the roux is for white sauce do not let the flour color4 ,if for brown sauce1 let it cook until brown1 but be careful that it does not burn4 ,if more flavor is wanted1 fry a few slices of onion or other vegetables in the butter before adding the flour4 ,sauces thickened in this way are much better than those in which uncooked flour is used4 ,in making roux do not use more butter than flour4 ,where more butter is required in a sauce1 add it1 in small pieces at a time1 after the other ingredients are mixed with the roux4 ,this will prevent an oily line forming4 ,,white ,,sauce #a tablespoonful of butter4 #a tablespoonful of flour4 #a cupful of milk4 #a_/b teaspoonful of salt4 #a_/d teaspoonful of pepper4 ,put one tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan4 ,when it bubbles add one tablespoonful of flour1 and cook1 stirring constantly1 for five minutes1 but do not let it color2 draw it to a cooler part of the range and add very slowly1 stirring all the time1 one cupful of cold milk1 and stir until perfectly smooth and a little thickened4 ,season with salt and pepper4 ,most of the white sauces are simple variations from this sauce4 ,water may be used instead of milk1 and it is then called drawn-butter sauce4 ,it can be made richer by adding a little more butter1 in small pieces1 one at a time1 after the milk is in2 also by adding the beaten yolk of an egg4 ,if the egg is added remove the pan from the fire and let it cool a little before adding the egg2 then cook for a minute1 but do not let it boil1 or the egg will curdle4 ,the secret of making a good white sauce is in cooking the flour until the starch grains have burst1 which removes the raw and pasty taste one finds where this care is not used4 ,there is no difficulty in making it smooth if the milk is turned in slowly1 as directed above4 ,a common way of making this sauce is to rub the butter and flour together1 and then stir them into the boiling milk1 but this does not give as good a result as when a roux is made4 ,the intense heat of frying butter cooks the flour quickly1 while milk boiled long enough to cook the flour is changed in flavor4 ,when this sauce is used as the basis of other sauces1 the amount of salt and pepper must be varied to suit the requirements of the other ingredients4 ,,white ,,sauce ,,for ,,fish ,make a white sauce1 using with the milk two tablespoonfuls of the water in which the fish is boiled4 ,boil in the water with the fish five cloves1 three bay-leaves1 one onion1 eight peppercorns1 and two tablespoonfuls of salt4 ,this will give flavor to the fish and to the sauce4 ,,egg ,,sauce ,,for ,,boiled ,,fish ,to a pint1 or two cupfuls1 of white sauce1 add three hard-boiled eggs cut into slices or small dice1 and1 if liked1 a teaspoonful of chopped parsley4 ,,caper ,,sauce 7,,boiled ,,mutton7 ,add to two cupfuls of white sauce four tablespoonfuls of capers4 ,see also page #afd4 ,,oyster ,,sauce 7,,boiled ,,fish ,,or ,,fowls7 ,scald the oysters in their own liquor until the edges curl4 ,make a white sauce using oyster-liquor instead of milk1 or use half milk and half oyster-liquor4 ,add the oysters just before serving4 ,one dozen oysters are enough for one pint of sauce4 ,,celery ,,sauce 7,,boiled ,,fowls7 ,cut one half cupful of celery into small pieces4 ,boil it in salted water until tender4 ,add the cooked celery to one cupful of white sauce4 ,,lobster ,,sauce ,chop the meat of a lobster into coarse pieces4 ,add it to a pint of white sauce4 ,add also a little of the coral 7which has been dried and pounded to a powder71 and a little paprica4 ,,veloute ,,and ,,allemande ,,sauces 7,,fish ,,and ,,vegetables7 ,make a white sauce 7page #bgg71 using chicken or veal stock instead of milk4 ,allemande4 ,remove the ,veloute from the fire2 add two yolks beaten with one half cupful of cream or milk1 one tablespoonful of chopped parsley1 and a dash of nutmeg4 ,put on the fire a moment to thicken1 but do not let it boil4 ,continue to stir for some moments after removing from the fire4 ,,bechamel ,,sauce ,make a white sauce1 using for liquor one half each of rich white stock and milk1 or use stock alone4 ,a slice of onion1 carrot and turnip should be fried in the butter before the flour is added4 ,a richer ,bechamel is made by adding a little cream and chopped mushrooms4 ,,poulette ,,sauce 7,,for ,,chicken-,,breasts1 ,,sweetbreads1 ,,and ,,other ,,entrees7 ,take a pint of white sauce made with chicken or veal stock instead of milk4 ,beat four yolks with a cupful of cream4 ,remove the sauce from the fire1 and add it slowly to the eggs and cream1 stirring all the time4 ,put it again on the fire a moment to thicken2 but do not let it boil1 or it will curdle4 ,add one tablespoonful of butter slowly1 a small piece at a time1 the juice of half a lemon1 a tablespoonful of chopped parsley1 and a dash of nutmeg4 ,serve at once4 ,do not put the sauce together until it is time to serve1 as it is likely to curdle after the eggs and lemon-juice are in4 ,stir constantly1 and for a moment after removing from the fire4 ,,villeroi 7,,to ,,use ,,for ,,eggs ,,villeroi1 ,,and ,,for ,,coating ,,cold ,,meats ,,that ,,are ,,to ,,be ,,heated ,,again7 ,put in a saucepan one tablespoonful of butter and a slice of onion2 fry for a few moments1 but not brown4 ,remove the onion1 and add two tablespoonfuls of flour2 cook but do not brown the flour4 ,dilute with two cupfuls of stock1 and boil1 stirring constantly until the sauce is very thick4 ,season with one half teaspoonful of salt1 one quarter teaspoonful of pepper1 a dash each of cayenne and nutmeg2 remove from the fire1 and add the yolks of four eggs beaten with one half cupful of cream or milk4 ,place again on the fire1 and let thicken until quite stiff and elastic4 ,do not let it boil after the eggs are added1 or it will curdle2 stir constantly4 ,when it is beginning to cool pour it over the articles it is to coat1 or roll the articles in it as the receipts direct4 ,chopped parsley1 truffles1 and mushrooms may be mixed with this sauce1 if desired4 ,the thick sauce left from coating the articles may be diluted with stock or milk1 and served with them4 ,this amount of sauce is sufficient to coat and to give diluted sauce for a dozen eggs villeroi4 ,,hollandaise 7,,boiled ,,fish1 ,,asparagus1 ,,cauliflower7 ,in a saucepan or bowl rub to a cream one half cupful of butter2 add the yolks of four eggs1 and beat well together2 then the juice of half a lemon1 one half teaspoonful of salt1 and a dash of cayenne2 then add slowly one cupful of hot water2 mix well1 and set it into a saucepan of hot water4 ,stir constantly until the sauce becomes like a thick cream4 ,do not let it boil4 ,remove from the fire1 and continue to stir for a few minutes4 ,it should be creamy and consistent4 ,it is one of the best sauces to use with fish4 ,it is also good cold with cold fish or meats4 ,,chaudfroid ,,sauce 7,,for ,,covering ,,cold ,,chicken ,,or ,,meats ,,which ,,are ,,to ,,be ,,served ,,cold7 ,put two tablespoonfuls of butter into a saucepan2 when it bubbles add two tablespoonfuls of flour4 ,let it cook well1 but not brown2 stir all the time4 ,add two cupfuls of chicken or of veal stock1 and stir until it is well thickened4 ,season with salt and pepper4 ,then add a half box1 or one ounce1 of gelatine which has soaked an hour in a half cupful of cold water4 ,stir until the gelatine has dissolved4 ,strain the sauce1 and let it just begin to stiffen before using it4 ,put a little on ice to see if it will be of the right firmness4 ,if it is too stiff add a little more stock2 if not hard enough add a little more gelatine4 ,it needs to be only firm enough to hold its place well without running4 ,a yellow color can be given it by adding the yolks of three eggs just before removing it from the fire4 ,a brown chaudfroid1 which is used for game and dark meats1 is made by browning the roux1 diluting it with beef stock2 and a deeper color can be obtained with a few drops of kitchen bouquet4 ,this sauce1 poured over boned chicken or other meats1 gives them a smooth1 even surface4 ,they can then be elaborately decorated with truffles1 making ornamental cold dishes for suppers4 ,before covering a galantine with chaudfroid fill any irregularities on the surface of the meat with a little of the sauce which has been placed on ice to set4 ,the surface can in this way be made perfectly even1 so when the sauce is turned over it the galantine will be smooth4 7,see picture1 page #aib47 ,,brown ,,sauce ,put a tablespoonful of chopped onion and a tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan on the fire4 ,let them both become brown2 then add a tablespoonful of flour1 and brown that also4 ,stir all the time4 ,add a cupful of beef or brown stock1 and cook until the sauce is a little thickened4 ,season with pepper and salt4 ,strain it to remove the onion4 ,a sauce poivrade is made by adding to the brown sauce1 at the same time that the stock is put in1 a cupful of claret1 two cloves1 a bay-leaf1 a little thyme and parsley4 ,in place of claret1 a teaspoonful of mustard1 the juice of half a lemon1 and a teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar gives a ,robert sauce4 ,,espagnole 7,,chops1 ,,cutlets1 ,,croquettes1 ,,and ,,seasoning ,,for ,,other ,,sauces7 #b-a_/b cupfuls of stock or consomme4 #a tablespoonful of gelatine4 #d tablespoonfuls of butter4 #d tablespoonfuls of flour4 #b tablespoonfuls of chopped onion4 #a tablespoonful of chopped lean ham4 #a tablespoonful each of chopped carrot and celery4 #a bay-leaf4 #c cloves4 #a piece of parsley4 #a piece of mace4 #a teaspoonful of salt4 #a_/b teaspoonful of pepper4 ,soak the gelatine in a half cupful of stock4 ,put the butter in a saucepan2 when hot add the chopped vegetables and ham1 and let them brown2 then add the flour1 and let that brown4 ,stir constantly so it will not burn4 ,when well browned add slowly the stock1 then the herbs1 spices1 salt1 and pepper1 and let cook for five minutes4 ,cover the saucepan4 ,set it into a larger one containing hot water4 ,draw it to the side of the range to simmer slowly for two hours4 ,then stir in the soaked gelatine1 and let stand another half hour4 ,when ready to serve skim off the fat and strain4 ,if a stock made with knuckle of veal is used1 the gelatine will not be needed4 ,it is used to give smoothness4 ,this is the richest of the brown sauces1 and in ,french cooking is used as the basis1 or seasoning1 for them all4 ,if too thick dilute with stock4 ,,champagne ,,sauce 7,,ham7 ,put in a saucepan one cupful of champagne1 two cloves1 six peppercorns1 one bay-leaf1 one teaspoonful of sugar4 ,let them infuse for five minutes over the fire2 then add a cupful of ,espagnole or of brown sauce1 and a little mushroom liquor if convenient4 ,let it simmer for ten minutes and strain4 ,any white wine may be used instead of champagne4 ,,piquante ,,sauce 7,,baked ,,fish1 ,,roast ,,and ,,broiled ,,meats7 #b cupfuls of brown stock4 #d tablespoonfuls of butter4 #b tablespoonfuls of flour4 #d tablespoonfuls of vinegar4 ,dash of cayenne4 #a tablespoonful of chopped onion4 #a tablespoonful of chopped capers4 #b tablespoonfuls of chopped pickle4 #a teaspoonful of sugar4 #a_/b teaspoonful of salt4 #a teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar4 ,put the butter in a saucepan1 and when it begins to brown add the flour1 and stir until it is well browned1 but do not let it burn4 ,draw to a cooler place on the range1 and slowly add the stock1 stirring constantly1 add salt and cayenne1 and let simmer for ten minutes4 ,in another saucepan boil the vinegar1 onion1 and sugar rapidly for five minutes2 then add it to the sauce1 and at the same time add the capers1 pickle and tarragon vinegar4 ,stir well1 and let cook for two minutes to heat the pickle4 ,if the sauce becomes too thick dilute it with a little water4 ,for piquante sauce ,no #b1 to two cupfuls of ,espagnole sauce add capers and pickles4 ,,soubise ,,sauce 7,,for ,,chops7 ,fry three or four onions until soft in a tablespoonful of butter2 press them through a strainer1 and mix with a cupful of brown sauce4 ,,horseradish ,,sauce 7,,roast ,,or ,,boiled ,,beef7 ,mix together two tablespoonfuls of soft white crumbs of bread and two tablespoonfuls of grated horseradish4 ,cover them with cream or milk1 and let soak for two hours4 ,then rub them through a sieve1 and add one quarter teaspoonful of salt1 one quarter teaspoonful of sugar1 and two tablespoonfuls of vinegar4 ,enough milk should be used to give it the consistency of cream4 ,this sauce will keep in a cool place for several days4 ,,mustard ,,sauce 7,,corned ,,beef1 ,,broiled ,,and ,,roasted ,,meats7 ,make a roux of one tablespoonful of butter and one teaspoonful of flour4 ,add to it #a cupful of stock4 #a tablespoonful of ,french mustard4 #a tablespoonful of vinegar4 ,a dash of cayenne4 #a teaspoonful of dry ,english mustard4 #a_/b teaspoonful salt4 #a teaspoonful of sugar4 ,cook slowly for ten minutes4 ,,curry ,,sauce 7,,for ,,eggs1 ,,chicken1 ,,etc47 ,put a tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan4 ,when it bubbles add a teaspoonful of onion-juice1 and a tablespoonful of curry powder mixed with two tablespoonfuls of flour4 ,let it cook a few minutes1 and add slowly two cupfuls of milk4 ,stir constantly4 ,,olive ,,sauce 7,,ducks7 #a dozen stoned olives4 #a cupful of brown stock4 #a tablespoonful of butter4 #a tablespoonful of flour4 #a tablespoonful each of chopped onion and carrot4 #a clove4 #a teaspoonful of salt4 ,dash of pepper4 ,put the butter in a saucepan2 when it bubbles add the chopped onion and carrot and let them brown2 then the flour and let that brown4 ,then add slowly the stock2 season with salt1 pepper and one clove2 let simmer for twenty minutes and strain4 ,stone the olives1 leaving the meat in one piece2 boil them in a little water for half an hour4 ,add the cooked olives to the strained sauce1 and cook for five minutes2 or1 dilute a cupful of ,espagnole sauce with a cupful of brown stock1 and add the cooked olives4 ,if brown sauce is not at hand1 use extract of beef from jar 7one teaspoonful of extract to one cupful of hot water74 ,if the sauce gets too thick dilute it with a little stock4 ,,tomato ,,sauce 7,,meats1 ,,croquettes ,,and ,,entrees7 #b tablespoonfuls of butter4 #a tablespoonful of flour4 #a tablespoonful each of carrot and onion4 #a_/b can of tomatoes4 ,parsley4 #a bay-leaf4 #c cloves4 #a_/b teaspoonful of salt4 #a_/d teaspoonful of pepper4 ,put one tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan2 add the chopped onion and carrot1 and let slightly brown2 add the flour and cook five minutes1 stirring constantly4 ,then add the tomatoes1 cloves1 bay-leaf1 salt and pepper4 ,cook slowly for half an hour1 or until the tomatoes are soft and reduced to right consistency4 ,then add a tablespoonful of butter 7a small piece at a time to prevent an oily line72 strain2 add more salt and pepper if necessary4 ,,mushroom ,,sauce 7,,using ,,canned ,,mushrooms7 ,make a brown roux1 using one tablespoonful each of butter and of flour2 add a cupful of stock and a half cupful of liquor from the can of mushrooms4 ,cook for five minutes1 stirring all the time2 then add one can of drained mushrooms1 a teaspoonful of lemon-juice1 a half teaspoonful of salt and a quarter teaspoonful of pepper4 ,let the mushrooms become well heated2 then remove from the fire and stir in the yolk of one raw egg rubbed with a teaspoonful of butter4 ,stir the hot sauce until the egg is set2 add a teaspoonful of chopped parsley and serve2 or a half teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet may be used and the egg and parsley omitted4 ,this sauce may be served on the same dish with beefsteaks1 fowls1 etc41 and the mushrooms laid evenly1 top side up1 around the meat as a garnish4 ,it may be made a white sauce by making a white roux1 using white stock and leaving out the kitchen bouquet4 ,the mushrooms are sometimes cut into halves or quarters4 ,,maitre ,d',,hotel ,,sauce 7,,broiled ,,fish ,,and ,,steaks7 #b tablespoonfuls of butter4 #a tablespoonful of chopped parsley4 #a tablespoonful of lemon juice4 #a_/b teaspoonful of salt4 #a_/b teaspoonful of pepper4 ,rub the butter to a cream2 add salt1 pepper1 and parsley chopped very fine2 then the lemon-juice slowly4 ,spread it on broiled meat or fish2 let the heat of the meat melt the butter4 ,the dish must not be put in the oven after the sauce is spread1 or the parsley will lose its freshness and color4 ,this sauce1 which greatly improves as well as garnishes broiled meat1 can be mixed and kept for some time in a cool place4 ,soften a little before using so it will spread evenly1 and be quickly melted by the hot meat4 ,,mint ,,sauce 7,,spring ,,lamb7 #a bunch of mint2 #a tablespoonful of sugar2 #c_/d cupful of vinegar4 ,rinse the mint in cold water2 chop it very fine4 ,dissolve the sugar in the vinegar2 add the mint and let stand for an hour1 to infuse before using4 ,if the vinegar is too strong1 dilute it with cold water4 ,if the sauce is wanted hot1 heat the vinegar and sugar1 and stir in the chopped mint just before serving4 ,,bread ,,sauce 7,,partridges1 ,,quail1 ,,grouse7 ,sift two cupfuls of dry bread-crumbs4 ,put on the fire a pint of milk and a small onion sliced4 ,when the milk is scalded remove the onion1 and add enough of the fine crumbs to thicken it4 ,season with a tablespoonful of butter1 a half teaspoonful of salt1 a dash of pepper and of nutmeg4 ,put the coarse crumbs into a pan with a tablespoonful of butter and saute them a light brown1 stirring all the time2 add a dash of paprica2 serve the fried crumbs on the dish with the game2 serve the sauce in a boat4 ,,jelly ,,sauce 7,,game ,,and ,,mutton7 ,melt in a saucepan one tumblerful of currant or of grape jelly2 add slowly one tablespoonful of butter4 ,let boil one minute2 remove1 and just before serving add one tablespoonful of sherry or of red wine4 ,,cranberry ,,sauce 7,,roast ,,turkey1 ,,chicken1 ,,mutton7 #a quart of cranberries4 #b cupfuls of sugar4 #b cupfuls of water4 ,pick over the berries carefully and wash in cold water4 ,put them in a porcelain-lined or granite-ware saucepan1 with enough water to cover them4 ,cook until tender2 then add the sugar1 and remove as soon as the sugar is dissolved4 ,it may be served hot or cold4 ,if thoroughly cooked the skins improve the sauce4 ,if strained and put in a mold to cool1 it becomes a jelly4 ,if the berries are carefully selected1 and boiled slowly without being stirred1 they will retain their shape1 and the sauce will be clear and transparent4 ,,apple ,,sauce 7,,goose ,,and ,,pork7 ,peel1 quarter1 and core six tart apples4 ,put them in a porcelain-lined or granite-ware saucepan1 and cover with water4 ,boil until tender1 then press them through a colander2 add a teaspoonful of butter1 a dash of nutmeg or cinnamon1 and sweeten to taste4 ,when used with meats apple sauce should be tart4 ,,bearnaise ,this is a very good sauce to use either hot or cold with meats and fish4 ,it is very like ,mayonnaise4 ,yolks of #d eggs4 #a_/b teaspoonful of salt4 ,dash of cayenne4 #d tablespoonfuls of salad oil4 #a tablespoonful of hot water4 #a tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar4 ,beat the yolks2 add the oil and water2 stand the bowl in boiling water and stir until the eggs thicken2 remove and add salt1 pepper1 and vinegar4 ,it should be creamy and of the consistency of ,mayonnaise4 ,a few chopped capers1 olives1 and gherkins make it a good ,tartare sauce2 and a little tomato puree will make it a red ,mayonnaise to use with cold boiled fish4 ,,mayonnaise ,yolk of #a egg4 #a_/b teaspoonful of salt4 ,dash of cayenne4 #a cupful of salad oil4 #a-a_/b teaspoonfuls of lemon-juice4 ,let the oil and egg be thoroughly chilled before beginning to make ,mayonnaise4 ,in summer it is well to stand the soup-plate in which the dressing is being mixed in a dish of cracked ice2 stir constantly with a silver fork or a wooden spoon4 ,have the yolk entirely free from any white of the egg2 add drop by drop the oil4 ,the success depends on adding the oil slowly at first4 ,it is well to spend half the time in incorporating the first two spoonfuls of oil2 after that it can be added in larger quantities4 ,after the dressing has become a little thick1 alternate a few drops of lemon-juice or of vinegar with the oil2 a little tarragon vinegar gives good flavor4 ,if mustard is liked1 add one quarter teaspoonful of dry mustard4 ,add the salt and pepper last4 ,if the sauce curdles1 take another yolk1 and add slowly the curdled ,mayonnaise4 ,a few drops of ice water or a small bit of ice added to the mixture when it begins to curdle will sometimes bring it back4 ,this dressing will keep for some time in a closed jar in the ice-box4 ,the proportions given are right1 but it is usually desirable to make a larger quantity4 ,with care more oil can be added to the egg1 which will give more sauce4 ,a very safe mixture1 and one recommended for summer1 is made by using the yolk of a hard-boiled egg with a raw yolk4 ,with this the dressing is more quickly made and seldom curdles4 ,lemon-juice makes a whiter dressing than vinegar1 but it also makes it a little softer4 ,,white ,,mayonnaise ,just before serving add to the above quantity of ,mayonnaise one half cupful of very stiff whipped cream1 or the white of one half an egg whipped very stiff4 ,,green ,,mayonnaise ,take some green herbs1 such as chervil1 tarragon1 chives1 parsley1 a leaf of spinach1 lettuce or watercress1 and pound them in a mortar with a little lemon-juice4 ,express the juice and add it to the ,mayonnaise4 ,it is then called ,ravigote sauce4 ,mashed green peas may be used to give color and also more consistency to the sauce when it is to be used to cover cold fish4 ,a little vegetable green coloring can be added if the color is not sufficiently deep1 but a delicate color is preferable4 ,,red ,,mayonnaise ,dry some lobster coral2 pound it to a powder and rub it through a sieve2 mix it with a little lemon-juice and add it to the ,mayonnaise4 ,use a little carmine color if deeper shade is wanted4 ,or1 color with well-strained tomato puree4 ,,jelly ,,mayonnaise ,instead of yolks of eggs1 use aspic jelly as a medium to hold the oil2 mix the sauce the same as the ordinary ,mayonnaise4 ,or1 to a cupful of aspic jelly 7see page #cba7 or chicken aspic add a cupful of oil1 one tablespoonful of vinegar 7one half being tarragon if convenient71 a few drops of lemon-juice1 salt1 pepper1 and cayenne2 stir together all at once1 the jelly being warmed enough to be liquid4 ,place it on ice and stir until it begins to set2 keep it in a cool place4 ,this jelly softens easily4 ,it is used to coat fish or meats1 and should be put on when a little soft4 ,it will then make a smooth and polished surface4 ,keep the meats coated with the jelly on ice until ready to serve4 ,it is used also for salads in forms1 or ,russian salads 7see receipts74 ,,mayonnaise ,,with ,,arrowroot ,smooth a tablespoonful of arrowroot in cold water2 stir it over the fire until it becomes smooth1 clear and firm like starch2 when a little cooled1 add salt1 pepper1 mustard1 and two or three yolks1 and beat until smooth2 when cold add oil as in regular ,mayonnaise4 ,this mixture will not curdle4 ,,tartare 7,,fish ,,and ,,cold ,,meats7 ,to a cupful of ,mayonnaise made with mustard1 add one tablespoonful of capers1 three olives1 and two gherkins1 all chopped very fine2 also the juice expressed from some pounded green herbs1 as in green ,mayonnaise or ,ravigote 7see above72 or chop the herbs fine and mix them in the dressing4 ,a good ,tartare sauce can be made by using tarragon vinegar and a little onion-juice when mixing the ,mayonnaise1 and adding parsley and capers1 both chopped very fine1 just before serving it4 ,,agra ,,dolce 7,,sour ,,sweet7 7,,an ,,italian ,,sauce ,,used ,,with ,,venison1 ,,sweetbreads1 ,,calf',s-,,head1 ,,and ,,mutton7 ,mix together two heaping tablespoonfuls of brown sugar1 one quarter bar of grated chocolate1 one tablespoonful each of shredded candied orange and lemon-peel1 ten blanched almonds shredded1 one half cupful of currants1 and one cupful of vinegar4 ,let them soak for two hours4 ,then pour it over the cooked meat1 and simmer for ten minutes4 ,this receipt was obtained in ,florence1 where it is a well-known and favorite sauce4 ,,beurre ,,noir ,,or ,,brown ,,butter ,,sauce 7,,eggs1 ,,calf',s ,,head1 ,,calf',s ,,brains1 ,,fish7 ,put a quarter of a pound of butter in a saucepan and let it cook slowly until it has browned1 then add three tablespoonfuls of hot vinegar1 one tablespoonful of chopped parsley1 and a dash of pepper and of salt4 ,,chapter ,,xii ,,entrees ,entrees are the dishes served between any of the regular courses4 ,,croquettes ,,general ,,directions ,sidenote3 ,shape4 ,sidenote3 ,how to serve4 ,croquettes are simply minced meat mixed with a thick sauce1 then rolled into shape and fried4 ,any kind of cooked meat1 fish1 shell-fish1 hard-boiled eggs1 and some kinds of vegetables may be served as croquettes4 ,croquettes may be plain1 using one kind of meat alone1 or made richer by combining with it sweetbreads1 brains1 mushrooms1 truffles1 etc4 ,whatever meat mixture is used1 the rules for sauce1 molding1 and frying are the same4 ,the croquettes may be shaped like cylinders1 pyramids or chops4 ,the meat should be chopped very fine4 7,an ,enterprise ,chopper is recommended47 ,they should be very soft and creamy inside1 and should be fried to a light golden color only4 ,serve them on a napkin and garnish with parsley4 ,illustration3 ,,croquettes4 7,,see ,,page #bib47 ,,the ,,enterprise ,,chopper ,this simple machine minces meat very fine1 and is useful in making croquettes1 forcemeat for stuffings1 etc4 ,where meat having much fiber is put in the chopper1 it soon becomes clogged4 ,the end piece can then be taken off1 and the fiber clinging to it1 which stops the holes1 be removed4 ,in making timbales the meat put through the chopper in this way1 and then pounded1 will sometimes do without being passed through a sieve4 ,illustration3 ,,enterprise ,,chopper4 ,,sauce ,,for ,,croquette ,,mixture 7,to this amount of sauce add two cupfuls of meat47 #a tablespoonful of butter4 #b tablespoonfuls of flour4 #a cupful of milk or cream4 #a egg4 #a teaspoonful of onion-juice4 #a teaspoonful of salt4 #a_/d teaspoonful of pepper4 ,dash of cayenne4 ,dash of nutmeg4 ,put the cream or milk in a double boiler and scald it4 ,rub the butter and flour together4 ,take this paste on a spoon and stir it in the scalding milk until it is dissolved from the spoon1 and the sauce has become thickened and consistent4 ,add the seasoning2 then remove from the fire and stir in a beaten egg 7the egg may be omitted if desired74 ,place it again on the fire for a minute to cook the egg1 but do not let it boil1 and add two cupfuls of meat minced very fine4 ,pour this mixture on a flat dish1 and set it away for two or more hours4 ,it will then be stiffened and can be easily molded4 ,if a mixture is used which absorbs the sauce1 add more than the quantity given in receipt4 ,the softer the mixture1 the more creamy1 and therefore the better will be the croquettes1 and if allowed to stand long enough the molding will not be difficult4 ,,to ,,mold ,,croquettes ,take a tablespoonful of the mixture 7this will make a croquette of the right size2 large ones are likely to crack open in frying72 roll it lightly between the hands into a ball4 ,have a plentiful supply of bread-crumbs spread evenly on a board2 roll the ball lightly on the crumbs into the shape of a cylinder1 and flatten each end by dropping it lightly on the board2 put it in the egg 7to each egg add one tablespoonful of water1 and beat together71 and with a spoon moisten the croquette completely with the egg2 lift it out on a knife-blade1 and again roll lightly in the crumbs4 ,have every part entirely covered1 so there will be no opening through which the grease may be absorbed4 ,where a light yellow color is wanted1 use fresh white crumbs grated from the loaf 7or rubbed through a puree sieve7 for the outside1 and do not use the yolk of the egg4 ,coarse fresh crumbs are used for fish croquettes1 which are usually made in the form of chops1 or half heart shape4 ,a small hole is pricked in the pointed end after frying1 and a sprig of parsley inserted4 ,for lobster croquettes a small claw is used instead of the parsley4 ,cracker-crumbs are used where a smooth surface is wanted4 ,have all the croquettes of perfectly uniform size and shape1 and lay them aside on a dish1 not touching one another1 for an hour or more before frying4 ,this will make the crust more firm4 ,the white of an egg alone may be used for egging them1 but not the yolk alone4 ,whip the egg with the water1 just enough to break it1 as air-bubbles in the egg will break in frying1 and let the grease penetrate4 ,,to ,,fry ,,croquettes ,let the fat become smoking hot2 then test it with a piece of bread4 ,if the bread colors while you count forty 7twenty seconds71 it is right4 ,it is well to put the frying-pot on the fire an hour before it is needed1 so it will be hot1 and ready to be raised quickly to the right degree4 ,after dipping the frying-basket in the fat to grease it1 lay in it four croquettes so that they do not touch one another1 and immerse them in the fat4 ,cook only long enough to attain a delicate color4 ,let them drain a moment over the hot fat2 then lift them from the basket with the hand 7if done quickly the hand will not be burned7 and place on a brown paper on the hot shelf or in the open oven until all are ready4 ,do not fry more than four at one time1 as more would reduce the heat of the fat too much4 ,let the fat become smoking hot before each immersion of croquettes4 ,hang the basket on a long iron spoon so the hand will not be burned by the spattering fat4 ,,materials ,,used ,,for ,,croquettes ,,chicken ,,croquettes ,chop the chicken very fine1 using the white meat alone1 or the dark meat alone1 or both together4 ,season with salt1 pepper1 onion-juice1 and lemon-juice4 ,chopped mushrooms1 sweetbreads1 calf's brains1 tongue1 ham or truffles are used with chicken1 and a combination of two or more of them much improves the quality of the croquettes4 ,,veal ,,croquettes ,veal is often mixed with chicken1 or is used alone as a substitute for chicken4 ,season in same manner and make the same combinations4 ,,sweetbread ,,croquettes ,cut the boiled sweetbreads into small dice with a silver knife4 ,mix with mushrooms1 using half the quantity of mushrooms that you have of sweetbreads4 ,use two eggs in the sauce4 ,,oyster ,,croquettes ,scald the oysters2 cut them into small pieces with a silver-plated knife4 ,,lobster ,,croquettes 7see page #ach7 ,,fish ,,croquettes 7see pages #aba and #abf7 ,,meat ,,and ,,boiled ,,hominy ,,croquettes ,equal proportions4 ,,meat1 ,,rice1 ,,and ,,tomato ,,croquettes ,equal proportions of meat and boiled rice3 moisten with tomato puree4 ,,macaroni ,,croquettes ,boil the macaroni in salted water until tender2 let it cool2 then cut into pieces one quarter inch long1 forming rings4 ,to a cupful of the rings add one tablespoonful of grated cheese4 ,the sauces to serve with croquettes are brown1 ,bechamel1 ,poulette1 and ,tomato4 ,,timbales ,sidenote3 ,general directions4 ,timbales are forms of pastry or of forcemeat filled with salpicon4 ,they are made in individual1 border1 or cylinder molds4 ,the receipts below give the rules for making the pastry1 forcemeat1 and salpicon1 and the combinations4 ,for forcemeat1 the raw meat is used1 and may be used alone or mixed with panada3 in the latter case it is called ,quenelle forcemeat4 ,cut the meat or fish in pieces 7excepting chicken1 which is scraped71 and pound it in a mortar to separate the flesh from the fiber1 then press it through a puree sieve4 ,do not chop the meat1 as the fiber is not then so easily separated4 ,if the meat pulp is mixed with panada1 press it through the sieve again so the paste will be perfectly smooth and fine4 ,truffles are used in decorating the molds and in the salpicon4 ,the little bits left from the decoration are chopped and used in the salpicon or in a sauce4 ,illustration3 ,,hinged ,,mold ,,and ,,individual ,,timbale ,,molds4 ,illustration3 ,,puree ,,sieve ,,and ,,mortar4 ,,truffles ,truffles can be bought in tins1 and as very little is used at a time they are not as expensive as at first appears4 ,to preserve truffles left over in an opened can1 drain them from the liquor and roll them in melted paraffine or in melted suet4 ,with the air-tight covering which either of these things gives1 the truffles can be kept in the refrigerator for an indefinite time4 ,,cream ,,chicken ,,forcemeat ,cut the breast from a chicken or turkey1 also the white meat from the wings2 remove the skin and fat1 and with a knife scrape the meat so as to free it from the sinews4 ,place the scraped meat in a mortar and pound it to a paste2 incorporate into it gradually1 while pounding1 the white of an egg2 this will moisten it a little so it will pass more easily through the sieve4 ,after it is thoroughly macerated1 take a little at a time and with the pestle or spoon rub it through a sieve2 it passes through better when a little is worked at a time4 ,put the pulp in a bowl1 season it with salt1 pepper1 and a dash of nutmeg4 ,set the bowl on cracked ice and stir in slowly 7as you add oil to ,mayonnaise7 one or one and a half cupfuls of thick cream--some mixtures take more cream than others2 stir continually1 using a wire whip if convenient4 ,when it is a consistent paste1 try it by dropping a half teaspoonful in hot 7not boiling7 water and let it poach2 if it is too thick add more cream1 if too thin add a little beaten white of egg4 ,the sample should poach for ten minutes1 and when cut should be smooth and firm1 but not tough4 ,,cream ,,forcemeat1 ,no4 #b4 ,to one half pound of meat pulp add five ounces of butter1 one whole egg1 and four yolks1 or the whites alone of four eggs if used with white meat2 beat very thoroughly together2 pass again through the sieve2 place on ice and beat in slowly one pint of whipped cream--three quarters of a cupful of cream will make about the right amount after being whipped4 ,,fish ,,cream ,,forcemeat ,scrape1 pound1 and pass through a sieve one pound of firm white fish4 ,put the pulp in a bowl1 season with salt1 pepper and cayenne2 whip into it the whites of two eggs1 and add slowly1 beating all the time1 about one and a half cupfuls of cream4 ,poach a small piece to see if right3 if too thick add more cream1 if too thin add more white of egg4 ,a pretty decoration for fish timbale1 especially when made of salmon1 is lobster coral1 dried and pounded to powder1 and sprinkled on the buttered mold4 ,fish timbale is usually made in a solid piece and served as a fish course4 ,with white fish serve a tomato sauce2 with salmon a ,poulette or a cream sauce1 or ,mayonnaise4 ,,quenelle ,,forcemeat ,to one cupful of meat-pulp1 after it is rubbed through the sieve1 add one half cupful of panada1 one quarter cupful of butter1 yolks of three eggs1 salt1 pepper1 and dash of nutmeg4 ,stir well together and pass again through the sieve4 ,place on ice and add slowly one cupful of cream4 ,try by poaching a small piece to see if it is of the right consistency4 ,a good white sauce or tomato puree may be substituted for the cream in some cases4 ,this forcemeat is used the same as cream forcemeat4 ,,bread ,,panada ,soak the crumb of bread2 express the water and place the bread in a saucepan on the fire4 ,stir it to a paste with milk or stock1 and continue to stir until it leaves the sides of the pan4 ,,flour ,,panada ,put a little water1 milk or stock in a saucepan2 add a little butter and salt1 and stir in as much flour as will absorb the liquid4 ,stir constantly until it leaves the sides of the pan4 ,,to ,,mold ,,and ,,cook ,,timbales ,rub the mold well with butter2 ornament it with truffle1 tongue1 ham1 or hard-boiled egg4 ,cut the truffle1 or other article used for the decoration1 in very thin slices and stamp it into fancy shapes with a cutter1 or cut it with a knife4 ,arrange the pieces in some design on the mold2 they will stay in place if the mold is well buttered4 ,put in the forcemeat carefully with a knife1 press it well against the sides to force out any air-bubbles1 and have a care not to displace the decoration4 ,if the timbale is to be filled with salpicon1 make a layer of the forcemeat from a quarter to three quarters of an inch thick1 according to the size of mold1 using enough to give stability to the form when unmolded2 make it a little thicker at the base than at the top and leave a smooth surface inside2 fill it with the salpicon and cover the top with forcemeat1 pressing from the sides towards the center2 draw the knife across the top so it will be smooth and even1 and stand straight and firm when unmolded4 ,stand the mold or molds in a pan of water1 covering them one half or a little more4 ,cover them with a greased paper and let them poach in a slow oven ten to fifteen minutes for small1 and twenty minutes for large molds4 ,if the center feels firm to the touch they are done4 ,the water must not be allowed to boil2 slow cooking is necessary to have them tender4 ,let the molds stand a minute in the water1 then invert on a cloth to let the moisture drain off1 and unmold them on the dish on which they are to be served4 ,illustration3 ,,individual ,,timbales4 ,,timbales ,,of ,,any ,,forcemeat2 ,,decoration ,,of ,,truffles4 ,,salpicon ,cooked veal1 chicken1 game1 sweetbreads1 calf's brains1 livers1 fish1 oysters1 lobster1 mushrooms1 truffles1 tongue1 etc41 when cut into dice and mixed with a rich sauce is called salpicon4 ,it is used for filling timbales1 vol-au-vent1 patties1 croustades1 etc4 ,it may also be served in paper boxes1 or shells1 or fontage cups4 ,it may be made of one kind of meat1 but is usually a mixture of two or more1 with mushrooms and truffles4 ,the meats are cut into small dice and warmed with a sauce which goes well with the meats used4 ,the sauce must be reduced until quite thick1 and enough of it used to make the mixture very creamy4 ,for dark meat use an ,espagnole1 brown or mushroom sauce2 for white meat1 ,bechamel1 ,allemande or ,poulette sauce4 ,illustration3 ,,chicken ,,timbale--,,filling ,,of ,,salpicon2 ,,decoration ,,of ,,truffles4 ,,fontage ,,cups 7,,used ,,for ,,oyster-,,crabs1 ,,salpicon1 ,,creamed ,,sweetbreads1 ,,etc47 ,make a batter of one half cupful of flour1 yolk of one egg1 one quarter teaspoonful of salt1 one tablespoonful of salad oil1 and enough milk or water to make the batter thin4 ,let it stand for an hour or two4 ,beat it well together1 and have the batter very smooth2 strain it if there are any lumps4 ,have a pot of hot fat2 place the fontage iron in the fat until it is thoroughly hot1 then dip it in the batter1 and hold it there a moment until a coating of batter has adhered2 place it again in the hot fat until the cup is cooked a delicate color1 and can be detached from the iron4 ,repeat the operation until all are made1 and keep them in a warm dry place until used4 ,this amount of batter will make twelve cups4 ,illustration3 ,,fontage ,,iron ,,and ,,cups4 7,,see ,,page #cjj47 ,,pain ,,de ,,volaille ,make a chicken cream forcemeat 7see page #big74 ,butter individual timbale molds1 decorate them with truffles1 fill with forcemeat1 and poach ten to fifteen minutes in slow oven4 ,serve with an ,allemande sauce4 ,or1 line the molds with forcemeat2 fill them with salpicon made of the dark meat of the chicken and mushrooms2 mix with ,espagnole or a good brown sauce2 cover the top well with forcemeat1 and poach as directed4 ,or1 use a charlotte russe mold2 line it a half inch thick with forcemeat1 and use the same salpicon1 adding small egg balls or quenelles1 a few pieces of tongue1 and a truffle chopped very fine4 ,or1 use a border mold for the forcemeat1 and fill the center of the ring1 when unmolded1 with the salpicon4 ,,quenelles ,these are quenelle forcemeat formed into small balls1 the balls rolled in flour and poached1 then used in salpicon2 or1 with two tablespoons1 the forcemeat may be molded into egg-shaped pieces1 poached in hot salted 7not boiling7 water1 and ranged on a socle2 or they may be placed on a dish in a circle4 ,the two latter forms of quenelles are served with a sauce as an entree4 ,fish quenelles with tomato sauce make a very good dish4 ,large quenelles for decorating dishes may be made by molding the forcemeat into fancy shapes with a knife on buttered white paper 7the paper will become detached while they are poaching74 ,the quenelles may be ornamented with truffles or tongue1 using white of egg to make the decoration adhere4 ,use salted water for poaching them1 and do not let it boil4 ,,palmettes ,press forcemeat into rings or cutlet molds2 partly poach them4 ,unmold1 roll in egg and crumbs1 and fry in hot fat4 ,serve with a sauce4 ,,celestines ,a ,,la ,,maintenon ,take some quenelle forcemeat 7see page #bih74 ,add to it a little juice from a can of truffles1 one truffle chopped fine1 two tablespoonfuls of mushrooms chopped fine1 and a few bits of ham1 or tongue4 ,mix well together1 and stir in enough cream to make it quite soft4 ,butter some cutlet molds1 or some rings4 ,fill them with the mixture2 smooth them with a knife1 and place them on the bottom of a large saucepan4 ,pour enough boiling water to cover them carefully on the sides of the pan1 so it will go into the pan without defacing the forcemeat2 let them poach for five minutes without the water boiling4 ,the cutlets will leave the molds1 and rise to the top4 ,lift them out with a skimmer1 and place on an inverted pan to cool4 ,when perfectly cold1 dry them lightly with a napkin1 and cover each one with ,villeroi sauce 7see page #bhj74 ,set aside to let the sauce harden4 ,sprinkle with bread-crumbs2 moisten with egg and cover with fresh crumbs grated from the leaf4 ,use a broad knife to handle them with when crumbing4 ,fry in hot fat1 like croquettes1 to an amber color4 ,serve with ,bechamel or ,poulette sauce4 ,,boudins ,,rouennais ,line well-buttered individual molds with a cream forcemeat made of veal or chicken2 fill the center with a forcemeat made of duck or any game4 ,cover the top with a white forcemeat1 and smooth it off even with the mold4 ,poach them for ten minutes4 ,unmold1 and let them cool2 then cover with egg and fresh bread-crumbs1 and fry in hot fat to an amber color4 ,serve with them an ,espagnole or a brown sauce4 ,,macaroni ,,timbale ,cook until tender in salted water long pieces of spaghetti1 or fine macaroni4 ,put it into the water slowly1 and it can then be turned so it will not break4 ,lay the pieces straight on a napkin to cool4 ,butter well a dome-shaped mold4 ,wind the spaghetti around the mold1 holding it in place1 as you proceed1 with a layer of forcemeat4 ,fill the center with boiled macaroni and cheese1 mixed with a well-reduced ,bechamel sauce2 or fill the timbale with a salpicon of sweetbreads and mushrooms4 ,make the layer of forcemeat thick enough to give the timbale stability4 ,cover it with a greased paper1 stand it in a pan of hot water1 and poach in a slow oven for thirty minutes4 ,this timbale may also be made in individual molds4 ,illustration3 ,,macaroni ,,timbale4 7,,see ,,page #cjb47 ,illustration3 ,,spaghetti ,,timbales4 7,,see ,,page #cjb47 ,,honeycomb ,,timbale 7,a ,,very ,,simple ,,luncheon ,,dish7 ,boil in salted water large-sized macaroni4 ,when cold cut it into pieces one quarter of an inch long1 making rings4 ,butter a plain dome-shaped mold1 and cover it with the rings4 ,fill the mold with minced uncooked chicken1 turkey1 or veal1 mixed with cream sauce4 ,add three or four eggs to the creamed mince just before putting it into the mold4 ,unless the eggs are added1 it will not have stiffness enough to hold in shape4 ,cover the mold with a greased paper4 ,place it in a pan of hot water1 and poach in a slow oven for thirty minutes4 ,this timbale may also be made of any cooked meat as follows3 ,put the meat through an ,enterprise chopper4 ,make a sauce1 using two tablespoonfuls each of butter and flour1 a cupful of milk1 and a cupful of stock4 ,after the liquid is added to the roux put in a slice of onion and two dried mushrooms1 one teaspoonful of salt1 and one quarter teaspoonful pepper4 ,let it cook until a little thickened4 ,add half the strained sauce to the minced meat4 ,stir it over the fire until the meat is heated2 remove from the fire1 add two beaten eggs1 and turn it into a a quart timbale mold1 which is lined with macaroni in any of the forms given in illustrations4 ,cover the mold with a greased paper4 ,place it in a pan of hot water1 and poach for twenty minutes4 ,serve the rest of the sauce with the cooked timbale4 ,illustration3 ,,honeycomb ,,timbale4 7,,see ,,page #cjb47 ,a ,,simple ,,timbale ,,of ,,halibut ,take a half pound of uncooked halibut4 ,cut it into fine pieces1 pound it in a mortar1 and pass it through a sieve4 ,mix a cupful of white bread-crumbs with a half cupful of milk1 and stir until it makes a smooth paste2 remove it from the fire1 add the fish pulp1 a half teaspoonful of salt1 and a dash of paprica4 ,then beat in lightly1 a little at a time1 the whipped whites of five eggs4 ,fill buttered timbale molds with the mixture1 and place them in a pan of hot water in a moderate oven for twenty minutes4 ,this will fill a quart mold1 or eight individual molds4 ,serve with a white or with a tomato sauce4 ,illustration3 ,,fish ,,timbale ,,decorated ,,with ,,slices ,,of ,,cucumber ,,pickle4 ,,pastry ,,timbale ,make a paste1 using to one pound of flour three quarters of a pound of butter1 four yolks1 one half teaspoonful of salt1 and one and a half cups of water4 ,work it well1 roll it one quarter of an inch thick1 cover1 and set it aside for one hour4 ,butter a timbale-mold1 and line it with the paste4 ,if ornamentation is wanted1 cut some noodle paste into fancy forms4 ,arrange the pieces in some design on the bottom and sides of the mold1 and brush them with a little water before putting in the paste4 ,with a cutter or knife stamp out a circle in the paste on the bottom of the mold1 but do not remove it4 ,then with a buttered paper cover the whole inside surface of the paste4 ,fill the center with flour4 ,cover the top with buttered paper1 buttered side up2 then a layer of paste1 and press it to the paste of the sides4 ,set it aside for half an hour4 ,bake it in a hot oven for fifty minutes4 ,unmold1 take off the circle which was cut in the paste2 remove the paper and flour4 ,brush the timbale all over1 inside and out1 with yolk of egg1 and place it in the oven to brown4 ,fill it with salpicon4 ,,potato ,,and ,,fish ,,timbale 7,,for ,,luncheon ,,or ,,breakfast7 ,butter a plain mold4 ,sprinkle it with white bread-crumbs4 ,fill it with mashed potato which has been seasoned and mixed with two or more egg yolks and some grated cheese4 ,bake it for forty minutes in a moderate oven4 ,with a pointed knife cut around the top one and a half inches from the edges2 lift off the piece1 and with a spoon scoop out the potato1 leaving a lining one and a half inches thick4 ,brush the inside with egg1 and place it again in the oven to dry and brown4 ,fill the center with creamed fish2 replace the top piece1 and fill the cut with potato so as to confine the fish4 ,place a dish over the top1 invert the mold1 and let it stand a few minutes4 ,it will then come out of the mold4 ,serve with a white sauce4 ,,vol ,,au ,,vent ,prepare a puff paste 7see page #deh74 ,roll it one and a half inches thick4 ,cut a circle six to six and a half inches in diameter1 using as guide a pie-tin or cardboard1 if a regular cutter is not at hand4 ,place it with care on a baking-tin1 and cut a smaller circle around the top1 one and a half inches from the edge1 and two thirds through the paste4 ,paint over the top with yolk of egg1 and bake it in a hot oven for thirty minutes4 ,do not open the oven door for the first fifteen minutes4 ,when baked1 lift off the inside circle4 ,cut out the uncooked paste1 paint it over with white of egg1 and place it again in the oven to brown4 ,keep the crust hot until ready to serve4 ,then fill with salpicon1 and replace the cover1 or small circle of paste4 ,,patties ,prepare patty shells as directed in puff paste receipt 7page #dfj74 ,fill them with oysters 7see page #acd71 with lobster 7see page #adj71 or with any salpicon4 ,,rissoles ,roll puff paste one eighth of an inch thick4 ,place on it at intervals of three inches from the edge and five inches apart1 a teaspoonful of salpicon1 or of creamed minced meat4 ,moisten with a wet brush the paste1 and fold it over the balls of meat4 ,with the finger press the paste together lightly around the meat1 inclosing it like a small pie4 ,then with a patty or biscuit-cutter stamp out the rissoles in shape of half-circles1 the ball of meat being on the straight side1 and a border of paste an inch or more wide on the rounded side4 ,egg and bread-crumb them or not1 and fry in hot fat4 ,serve on a folded napkin4 ,,to ,,prepare ,,sweetbreads ,soak the sweetbreads in cold water for an hour or more4 ,change the water several times1 so that all the blood will be extracted1 and leave the sweetbreads very white4 ,put them on the fire in cold water1 and simmer 7not boil7 for twenty minutes4 ,then immerse them again in cold water4 ,this is to parboil and blanch them4 ,remove all the pipes1 strings1 and fibers it is possible to do without breaking the sweetbreads to pieces4 ,when half cold tie each one in a piece of cheese-cloth1 drawing it tightly into an oval form1 and place them under a light weight until cold4 ,they will then be smooth and a uniform shape1 and may be larded with fine lardoons if desired4 ,use a silver knife for cutting sweetbreads4 ,,baked ,,sweetbreads ,take parboiled larded sweetbreads1 and place them on slices of salt pork in a baking-pan4 ,add enough stock to cover well the pan4 ,cook them in a hot oven for twenty minutes1 basting frequently4 ,serve with a brown or with a mushroom sauce4 ,,braised ,,sweetbreads ,place in a baking-pan a bed of vegetables cut in small dice1 and a few pieces of salt pork4 ,lay parboiled sweetbreads on it4 ,add enough water or stock to cover the vegetables4 ,close the pan tight1 and cook for forty to forty-five minutes4 ,uncover the pan the last fifteen minutes to let the sweetbreads brown4 ,paint them with glaze4 ,strain the liquor from the pan2 thicken it with a brown roux1 and serve it on the dish under the sweetbreads4 ,,sauted ,,sweetbreads ,cut the parboiled sweetbreads in slices and saute them in butter2 serve with green peas4 ,,fried ,,sweetbreads ,roll the sweetbreads 7either whole or cut in slices7 in egg and crumbs2 let them stand for a time1 then fry in hot fat2 dress them on a folded napkin and serve with them a ,bechamel sauce4 ,they may also be dipped in fritter batter and fried4 ,,sweetbreads ,a ,,la ,,poulette ,simmer the sweetbreads for thirty or forty minutes2 blanch them1 then cut or break them in pieces and place them on a dish4 ,pour over them a ,bechamel or a ,poulette sauce4 ,mushrooms and chopped truffles may be added if desired4 ,,chaudfroid ,,of ,,sweetbreads ,simmer the sweetbreads until cooked2 blanch and tie them in cloth as directed above1 or place them in muffin-rings under pressure until cold2 cover them with a ,chaudfroid sauce 7see page #bha74 ,place fancy bits of truffle on the top lightly1 and when the sauce has set1 paint it over with liquid aspic4 ,arrange them on a socle or on a mound of salad1 and serve with them a ,mayonnaise sauce and lettuce4 ,,calf',s ,,brains ,soak the brains for an hour in cold water2 then simmer in water containing a tablespoonful of vinegar for twenty minutes2 an onion1 thyme1 bay-leaf1 salt and peppercorns in the water also will improve the flavor of the brains2 place again in cold water to blanch2 remove the skin and fibres1 and cook by any of the receipts given for sweetbreads4 ,the boiled brains may also be served with any of the following sauces poured over them3 a plain white sauce2 a white sauce with chopped mushrooms2 a white sauce seasoned with mashed yolks of hard-boiled eggs1 a little mustard1 tarragon vinegar and chopped parsley1 and a tablespoonful of chopped pickle added just before serving2 a ,vinaigrette sauce2 a ,hollandaise sauce2 a tomato sauce2 or a sauce made of browned butter and a dash of vinegar4 ,,marinade ,,of ,,brains ,boil the brains2 remove the skin and veins2 cut them into pieces the size of half an egg2 let them stand an hour in a marinade of oil1 vinegar1 onion1 pepper and salt2 then wipe and dip them into fritter batter and fry in hot fat4 ,arrange them on a napkin and serve with tomato sauce4 ,,calf',s ,,head ,a ,,la ,,vinaigrette ,place pieces of hot boiled calf's head in the center of a dish2 split the tongue in two and lay it across two sides of the dish1 and the brains on the opposite sides2 garnish with parsley and serve with a ,vinaigrette sauce1 or with a ,piquante sauce4 ,vinaigrette ,sauce 7,,cold73 ,three tablespoonfuls of oil1 one tablespoonful of vinegar1 one teaspoonful each of grated onion1 chopped parsley1 and capers1 one saltspoonful each of salt and pepper4 ,,false ,,terrapin ,cut boiled calf's head 7see page #age7 into pieces one inch square2 break into pieces the boiled brains4 ,make a brown roux2 add to it water in which the calf's head was boiled1 in the same proportion as for white sauce2 season with salt1 pepper1 and cayenne1 and add a cupful of cream2 then put in the pieces of meat1 three or four chopped hard-boiled eggs1 a few small egg balls1 and a glass of sherry2 serve very hot2 there should be a half more sauce than meat4 ,,calf',s ,,head ,a ,,la ,,poulette ,cut boiled calf's head into pieces one inch square2 heat them in hot water2 drain and pile them in the center of a hot dish2 sprinkle over them a few small egg balls1 and pour over the whole a ,poulette sauce1 using for the sauce water in which the calf's head was boiled in the place of chicken stock4 ,,oyster ,,cases ,line buttered paper cases1 or china individual cups1 with a layer of fish quenelle forcemeat 7page #bih71 or with the fish preparation given in receipt for fish pudding 7page #abc72 scald some oysters in their own liquor until the gills curl2 cut each oyster into four pieces and fill the center of the cup with them2 pour over them a tablespoonful of ,bechamel sauce1 made with oyster-liquor in place of stock2 cover the top with forcemeat1 brush it over with butter and bake in a moderate oven for fifteen minutes4 ,cases of other combinations may be made in the same way2 using mashed potato for the lining and any creamed meat for filling2 or use hominy or rice with chicken1 mushrooms1 etc4 ,,liver ,,loaf1 ,,or ,,false ,,pate ,,de ,,foie ,,gras ,cut a calf's liver in pieces2 pound it in a mortar and press it through a sieve2 add to one cupful of liver pulp one quarter cupful of flour panada1 one teaspoonful each of butter and salt2 one half teaspoonful of pepper2 dash each of cayenne and of nutmeg and allspice1 and two eggs4 ,mix well together and pass it again through the sieve4 ,put the mixture into a well-buttered pint mold2 place it in a pan of hot water in the oven for forty-five minutes or more4 ,an ice-cream brick-mold makes a loaf of convenient shape4 ,it may be served hot with a brown sauce2 but is better cold with salad1 or used like pate de foie gras4 ,a loaf of any game may be made in the same way4 ,the loaf may be made very ornamental by decorating it with pieces of truffle1 ham1 and white of hard-boiled eggs cut into diamond shapes and fitted together to look like blocks4 ,to arrange this decoration use two molds of the same size2 butter one of them and apply carefully the decoration2 line the other with thin slices of larding pork and cook the liver or game mixture in it2 when it is cold remove the pork1 and this will leave it small enough to fit into the decorated mold4 ,fill the space between them with aspic jelly and let it become well set before unmolding the form4 ,,chicken ,,livers ,cut the gall carefully off the livers2 dry them with a cloth and cut them in two or more pieces4 ,place them in a frying-pan with a tablespoonful of butter1 and saute until cooked1 or about five minutes4 ,turn them often1 so they will not burn1 and dredge them with a little flour2 add one cupful of ,espagnole1 or of brown sauce1 and one half cupful of ,madeira2 season with salt and pepper and let simmer slowly for ten minutes4 ,if the color is not dark enough1 add a few drops of caramel or of kitchen bouquet2 serve with croutons around the dish1 or in a croustade1 or in fontage cups4 ,,stuffed ,,mushrooms ,take off the stalks from one pound of fresh mushrooms1 peel the cups1 using a silver knife1 and drop them into cold water to keep them white 7if exposed to the air they discolor74 ,if they have to stand for some time put a little lemon-juice in the water2 scrape the stalks1 chop them and put them into a saucepan with one tablespoonful of butter and one half onion sliced2 cook slowly for ten minutes1 then add one tablespoonful of flour and cook that five minutes2 add one cupful of stock and one half cupful of bread crumbs2 season with salt1 pepper1 and a dash of cayenne4 ,fill the cups of the mushrooms with this mixture2 sprinkle with crumbs and place them on circles of toasted bread one quarter of an inch thick and the size of the mushroom4 ,bake in moderate oven for fifteen minutes4 ,,chicken ,,puree ,chop cooked chicken very fine2 pound it to as much of a paste as possible2 season with salt and pepper2 mix it with half its quantity of ,chaudfroid sauce 7see page #bha74 ,coat a mold with jelly 7see page #cbc71 and fill it with the mixture1 which must be cold and beginning to set2 when it has hardened1 turn it onto a dish2 garnish with lettuce and serve with it a ,mayonnaise or a ,bearnaise sauce4 ,game may be used in the same way4 ,ornamented individual timbale cups may also be used for molding the puree4 ,,oyster-,,crabs ,put into a saucepan two tablespoonfuls of butter and a gill of water1 one teaspoonful of lemon-juice1 a little salt and white pepper4 ,when the liquid is warm1 put a few of the crabs in at a time and cook until they begin to whiten1 then skim them out and keep them in a warm place until all are cooked4 ,the liquid must only simmer2 if it is too hot the crabs will break open4 ,the crabs should be just moistened with the sauce in which they are cooked4 ,serve in croustades1 or in fontage cups 7see page #cjj74 ,,entree ,,of ,,oyster-,,crabs ,use for this entree individual shirred-egg dishes4 ,cut slices of bread one inch thick2 with a biscuit-cutter stamp it into circles one inch smaller than the egg dish1 and with a smaller cutter stamp out the center1 making rings of the bread one inch thick1 one inch wide1 and one inch smaller than the egg dishes4 ,place the bread rings in the dishes and moisten them with cream2 fill the space outside the rings with oyster-crabs cooked as directed above2 spread one layer of crabs in the center of each ring and on them break an egg4 ,cover the whole with ,bechamel sauce and sprinkle the top with grated ,parmesan cheese4 ,place this in a hot oven just long enough to set the egg4 ,,terrapin1 ,,frogs' ,,legs ,,terrapin ,sidenote3 ,counts4 ,terrapin measuring six inches or more across the bottom shell are called counts4 ,the largest do not exceed ten inches2 the average size is seven inches1 and weight three to five pounds4 ,the counts vary in price from seventeen to eighty dollars a dozen1 according to size and weight4 ,sidenote3 ,diamond backs4 ,the terrapin which are most esteemed1 and which command the highest price1 are the ,diamond ,back1 from the ,chesapeake ,bay4 ,probably it is the wild celery of this region which gives the especially prized flavor to the terrapin as well as to the ,canvasback ducks taken there4 ,good terrapin1 however1 are taken in ,long ,island waters and all along the sea-coast4 ,sidenote3 ,season4 ,terrapin burrow in the mud as soon as cold weather approaches and remain there until ,may1 during which time they grow fat4 ,they are caught during their season of hibernation1 and are kept in cool1 dark places packed in sea grass until wanted2 the season for eating them being from ,december to ,april4 ,terrapin taken during the summer are rank in taste and unfit for food1 and are confined in pens and fed on celery4 ,the female terrapin is the most prized on account of its eggs1 terrapin-eggs1 as served in the stew1 being considered a great delicacy4 ,sidenote3 ,cooking4 ,the ,maryland style of cooking terrapin is one of the most esteemed4 ,a simple way is that of the ,southern negro1 who places the bird1 as he calls it1 over hot coals or in the oven until cooked1 when the under shell comes off1 and1 removing only the gall1 he eats the whole of the contents from the inverted upper shell1 seasoning with butter1 pepper1 and salt4 ,before hibernating1 the terrapin empties the stomach and is consequently clean1 but a fastidious taste prefers to have the terrapin thoroughly washed1 and the entrails and lights as well as the gall-sack removed4 ,sidenote3 ,the gall4 ,it is of the greatest importance that the gall should be very carefully removed1 for1 if the sack be punctured or in any way injured1 so that the liquid touches the liver or meat1 its disagreeable bitter taste will infect the entire dish4 ,,to ,,prepare ,,terrapin ,drop the live terrapin into hot water1 and let it remain until the skin can be removed from the head and feet4 ,then remove1 wash in several changes of water1 take off the skin from the head and feet by rubbing it with a cloth1 and return it to fresh scalding water to cook until tender4 ,this is shown by pressing the feet between the fingers4 ,they should be done in forty-five minutes to an hour4 ,if a longer time is required1 the terrapin is probably not a good one1 and the meat will be stringy4 ,remove as soon as tender4 ,when cold1 cut off the nails1 remove the shells1 take out very carefully the gall-sack from the liver1 the entrails1 lights1 heart1 head1 tail and white muscles4 ,separate the pieces at the joints1 divide the meat into pieces an inch and a half long1 and do not break the bones4 ,place the meat1 cut into pieces1 the terrapin eggs and the liver in a pan1 cover with water1 and boil again until the meat is ready to drop from the bones4 ,,stewed ,,terrapin1 ,,maryland ,,style ,mash the yolks of eight hard-boiled eggs and mix them with two tablespoonfuls of best butter1 rubbing them to a smooth paste4 ,put a pint of cream in a double boiler2 when it is scalded1 stir in the egg and butter until smooth2 season with salt1 white and cayenne pepper1 a dash of nutmeg and allspice4 ,add a quart of terrapin prepared as directed above1 and simmer for ten minutes1 or until the terrapin is well heated4 ,just at the moment of serving add two tablespoonfuls of sherry or madeira2 serve very hot4 ,terrapin is often served in individual metal cups made for the purpose1 so as to insure its being hot2 but with care to have all the dishes hot1 the stew need not be allowed to get cold when served in ordinary deep plates4 ,,terrapin ,a ,,la ,,newburg ,put in a saucepan one quart of terrapin 7prepared as directed1 page #cab71 a half pint of cream1 and a tablespoonful of best butter4 ,let it cook a few minutes2 then draw it aside1 and add the yolks of five eggs beaten with a half pint of cream4 ,stir until the eggs are thickened2 but do not let it boil1 or it will curdle4 ,season with salt1 white pepper and paprica4 ,at the moment of serving1 add two tablespoonfuls of sherry4 ,like all ,newburg dishes this must be prepared only just in time to serve1 or it will curdle4 ,,fried ,,frogs' ,,legs ,dip the skinned frogs' legs in milk2 sprinkle with salt and pepper1 and roll them in flour4 ,immerse in smoking hot fat until cooked to a delicate color4 ,serve on a napkin4 ,,frogs' ,,legs ,a ,,la ,,poulette ,saute the skinned frogs' legs in butter2 cook some fresh mushrooms in the pan at the same time if convenient4 ,place on a hot dish with the mushrooms1 and pour over them a ,poulette sauce 7see page #bhj74 ,,mushrooms 7,,see ,,also ,,page #de7 ,when one has learned to distinguish a few varieties of the edible fungi1 a delicious acquisition to the menu will be enjoyed4 ,the author will not assume the responsibility of instructing how to distinguish the esculent mushrooms4 ,there are books and colored charts which give explicit and reliable descriptions1 and with these one can easily learn to know a few of them4 ,accidents are usually the result of carelessness or recklessness1 many of the poisonous mushrooms being so attractive in appearance as to invite favor4 ,mushroom hunting is akin in pleasure to botanizing1 geologizing1 or the gathering of any natural history specimens4 ,it is not always easy to reject the many unfamiliar kinds4 ,sidenote3 ,how to gather4 ,in gathering mushrooms they should be cut1 not pulled1 and laid in the basket with the gills up1 so the spores will not be lost4 ,if the stem is perforated with fine holes it means that worms have bored it1 and it should be rejected4 ,sidenote3 ,the three most common varieties4 ,the most common varieties are the ,agaracini--those having gills2 the ,boleti--those having pores2 and puff-balls 7,lycoperdaceae74 ,all the puff-balls are edible1 and those of the ,boleti which have no tinge of red on the pore surface2 but especial care must be used with the ,agaracini1 for it is said that all deaths from mushroom-poisoning have come from the ,amanita1 which is a genus of the gilled species1 and is very common and abundant4 ,sidenote3 ,the ,amanita4 ,sidenote3 ,antidote to poison4 ,the safeguard to other species of poison varieties is their bitter and acrid taste4 ,this warning the poisonous ,agaric does not give1 but it has the distinguishing feature of a cup or volva at the base of the stern4 ,this cup is some times below the ground1 and should be carefully sought2 and where any doubt is felt1 the specimen should be rejected4 ,the antidote to this poison1 as given by ,mr4 ,gibson1 is one sixtieth grain doses of atropine in hypodermic injections4 ,authorities on mushrooms advise the amateur to first acquaint himself with the ,amanita family4 ,dr4 ,w4 ,a4 ,curtis found in ,north ,carolina thirty-eight edible species of ,agaricus1 eleven of ,boletus1 nine of ,polyporus1 seven of ,hydnum1 and thirteen of ,clavaria4 ,the popular tests of the cap peeling1 or the mushroom blackening a silver spoon when cooking1 are worthless4 ,sidenote3 ,freshness4 ,sidenote3 ,nourishment in4 ,mushrooms are very short-lived1 and are quickly attacked by insects and worms1 and so rendered unfit for use4 ,they also decay quickly1 and should be rejected if not entirely sound4 ,many cases of illness are the result of this unfit condition4 ,the same would be the case if unwholesome meat were eaten1 but good meat is not condemned on that account4 ,mushrooms contain the same nutritive value as meat1 and rank second to it in nitrogenous elements4 ,they vary in flavor and in delicacy as much as vegetables4 ,,cooking ,,mushrooms ,the simplest way of cooking mushrooms is usually the best1 and this may be broiling1 sauteing in butter1 or stewing in a little cream sauce4 ,these simple ways may be varied by seasoning with sherry1 ,madeira1 or lemon-juice4 ,any meat stock may be used to stew them in1 but many of the mushrooms are very juicy1 and their flavor must not be lost by diluting them with too much liquor4 ,they may be cut in pieces when used for sauces4 ,when dried and powdered they make an excellent seasoning for sauces4 ,dried cepes may be bought at grocers'1 and are very useful to stew in sauces4 ,it is better to cook mushrooms as soon as they are peeled1 and to rinse them only as much as is necessary1 as they lose some flavor by soaking4 ,when they are to be used for garnishing1 they are thrown into water with lemon-juice1 one tablespoonful of juice to a quart of water1 and are afterward boiled in the same water2 this keeps them white4 ,the water they are boiled in should be saved to use in sauces4 ,again1 they may be put into a saucepan with butter and lemon-juice1 and cooked 7stirring frequently7 for about five minutes4 ,they are then covered to keep them moist and white until ready for use4 ,lemon-juice keeps them white1 but the flavor of the mushroom is somewhat destroyed by it1 and so it is not recommended for general practice4 ,the ,french peel the caps with a fluted knife to make them more ornamental1 but it is a difficult operation1 and does not repay the trouble4 ,mr4 ,george ,augustus ,sala1 in a discourse on ',dinners ,departed1' refers to the famous a la mode beef1 served in the days of old at the ',thirteen ,cantons1' in ,blackmore ,street1 ,drury ,lane1 and of which ,soyer was very fond4 ,the dish was remarkable for its rich sauce1 the concoction of which was a close secret4 ,however1 the former proprietor of the old eating-house confided the receipt to ,mr4 ,sala4 ,thus3 ',it was simply made from a particular mushroom1 which he called morella1 and which ,i infer was the ,morchella esculenta1 described in botanical works4 ,these mushrooms were gathered in the fields round about the metropolis1 dried1 reduced to powder1 and then used to thicken the sauce and enhance the flavor of a la mode beef4' ,,the ,,fairy ,,ring ,,champignon 7,,marasmius ,,oreades7 ,this is one of the most common and easily recognized mushrooms1 and in their season enough for a sauce may be gathered in almost any dooryard4 ,the difference between the real and the false fairy is easily distinguished1 the former having the gills wide apart1 and a little mound rising in the center of the cap1 while the false have the gills close together and usually a depression in the center of the cap4 ,if the fairies are dry when gathered soak them in water for a little while1 and then saute or stew them4 ,put a tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan2 when it bubbles add a teaspoonful of flour1 and cook the flour a few minutes1 but not brown it2 then add a half cupful of water or of milk1 stir until smooth1 and add a pint of the fairies4 ,simmer for fifteen minutes1 season with salt and pepper4 ,pour this over softened buttered toast or over meat2 use water to make the sauce if they are used with meat1 and milk if served on toast2 or cook them by sauteing them in a little butter1 and serve them on softened toast4 ,,the ,,agaricus ,,campestris ,this mushroom is one and two third inches in diameter2 has a white or cream colored cap and purplish pink gills1 the gills becoming brown at a later stage4 ,when once learned they are unmistakable4 ,it is a highly esteemed variety1 and grows abundantly in meadows and pastures1 but never in the forest4 ,it is the mushroom generally found for sale in the markets4 ,cut off the stem near the cup1 peel them1 and lay them with the gills up on a dish and sprinkle them with salt4 ,after a little time they will be quite moist2 then stew them in a sauce1 the same as given above for the fairies4 ,they may also be sauted in butter1 or be broiled4 ,to broil1 lay them on a fine wire broiler2 turn the gills first to the coals for a few minutes2 then turn the other side1 and place a piece of butter on each one4 ,serve on toast4 ,the fire for broiling mushrooms should not be very hot or bright4 ,,agaricus ,,procerus ,remove the scurf spots1 and broil the same as given above4 ,use plenty of butter4 ,serve on a dish with meat or on toast1 as preferred4 ,,agaricus ,,russula ,this mushroom is of various colors4 ,it is found in woody paths and clearings4 ,it is particularly subject to the attack of worms1 and must be carefully scrutinized4 ,the noxious ,russulas have a bitter taste1 and in appearance resemble closely the esculent ones1 so care is required to discriminate them4 ,wash them well1 peel1 and broil as directed for the ,campestris4 ,lay them under a broiled steak1 so they will absorb the juices of the meat4 ,,coprinus ,,comatus ,,and ,,coprinus ,,atramentarius ,these grow in masses in barnyards1 gardens or any rich earth1 and in decomposition become a soft black paste4 ,they should be gathered at the white or pink stage4 ,fry them in butter or stew them with butter and a little milk or cream4 ,they are very juicy1 and do not need much liquor added to stew them4 ,,the ,,boleti ,this species is of a distinctly different character from the ,agaracini or gilled mushrooms4 ,the cap is more solid1 being filled with a mass of vertical tubes or pores4 ,some ,boleti are as large as six to eight inches in diameter1 one of them making a meal for several people4 ,any of this class which have any tinge of red on the under surface should be rejected4 ,remove the skin and pores1 and either saute the caps in butter1 or dip them in fritter batter1 or egg and crumb them1 and fry in smoking-hot fat4 ,they may also be stewed in a white sauce1 but they are very juicy1 and need but little extra liquor4 ,these mushrooms must be carefully examined for insects1 as they are quickly attacked4 ,,puff ,,balls ,all are edible when gathered at the white stage4 ,cut them in slices one half inch thick4 ,either saute them in butter1 or dip them in beaten egg1 and fry in hot fat or cook on a griddle4 ,season with pepper and salt4 ,,morchellae ,,esculentae ,these mushrooms resemble none but those of the same genus1 and all of them are edible4 ,they are hollow1 the exterior resembles a honey-comb1 and they are found in open woods and at the base of trees on lawns4 ,great use is made of all the ,morels in the ,french kitchen1 and they are much prized by epicures4 ,morels are usually stuffed with chicken1 veal1 or other meat1 chopped very fine and highly seasoned4 ,the stem is opened to admit the forcemeat1 then pressed together again4 ,lay them on slices of bread1 and bake in a moderate oven for ten minutes1 or until tender2 baste them with butter while cooking1 and sprinkle them with salt and pepper4 ,wash the ,morels well before stuffing them4 ,,hydnum ,,caput ,,medusae ,cut the fungus into pieces1 and simmer it in a little water2 season with butter1 salt1 and pepper1 and add a little cream4 ,when cooked1 pour the mixture over croutons1 or saute the pieces in butter2 add a little sherry just before removing from the fire1 and serve on softened toast4 ,,clavaria ,separate the branches1 and stew in white sauce2 or saute them in butter1 seasoning with lemon-juice1 salt1 and pepper4 ,,to ,,dry ,,mushrooms ,place them in a saucepan1 and cook with gentle heat until the moisture they give is evaporated2 then place them on a hot shelf until they are thoroughly dry4 ,pound them to powder in a mortar1 and place the powder in well-closed preserve jars4 ,,scalloped ,,mushrooms ,make a roux of one tablespoonful each of butter and flour4 ,add two cupfuls of chicken broth or of white stock2 add the chopped stalks of a pint of mushrooms2 reduce the sauce one half2 add a tablespoonful of chopped parsley1 pepper1 and salt4 ,turn this sauce into a shallow baking-dish4 ,press into it as many mushrooms as will fit into the dish1 placing them close together1 with the gills up4 ,put a piece of butter on each one2 sprinkle the top with crumbs1 and place in the oven for five to eight minutes4 ,serve in the same dish4 ,,mushrooms ,a ,,la ,,poulette ,stew the mushrooms in a little water with a tablespoonful of butter2 season with pepper and salt4 ,when ready to serve1 add a little milk or cream2 remove from the fire1 and stir in the beaten yolks of two eggs2 replace on the fire for a minute to thicken the eggs1 and serve at once4 ,,chapter ,,xiii ,,aspic ,,jelly1 ,,fancy ,,molding1 ,,supports ,sidenote3 ,uses4 ,aspic is very useful in the preparation of cold dishes1 and much care should be given to having it perfectly clear and well flavored4 ,the second one of the two receipts given below is so simple that the most inexperienced cook can easily make it4 ,with aspic1 cold meats and salads can be made into most attractive dishes2 and it is well worth while to learn and ornamenting with it4 7,see opposite pages #cbf1 #cbh47 ,,aspic #a fowl4 #a shin of beef4 #a knuckle of veal4 #d cloves4 #a bay-leaf4 #b onions4 #a carrot4 #a stock of celery4 #a turnip4 #a_/b package ,cox's gelatine4 #a cupful of sherry or ,madeira4 ,put the chicken1 beef1 and veal in a pot4 ,cover them well with cold water1 and let simmer for five or six hours1 with the pot covered closely4 ,an hour before removing from the fire1 add the carrot cut into dice1 the cloves1 and bay-leaf4 ,fry in butter the onions and celery 7cut into pieces7 to a dark brown1 and add them to the stock at the same time4 ,remove from the fire1 strain1 and add one half package of gelatine 7which has been soaked for an hour in one cupful of water7 and one cupful of sherry or ,madeira4 ,stir until the gelatine is dissolved4 ,set away until the next day4 ,there should be two quarts of jelly4 ,if it is not solid enough to stand1 more gelatine may be added at the time of clearing4 ,boiling down jelly will not make it more firm4 ,,to ,,clear ,,aspic ,remove all the grease from the top of the jelly1 and wipe it off with a cloth wet in hot water1 so every particle of grease will be removed4 ,stir into the cold jelly the beaten whites and the shells of three eggs 7do not froth the egg74 ,put it on the fire1 and continue to stir until it boils4 ,let it boil for five minutes2 then strain it through a double cloth4 ,if not perfectly clear1 strain it a second time4 ,let the jelly drain through the cloth without pressure4 ,,quick ,,aspic ,put into a saucepan one and a half cupfuls of cold water1 a tablespoonful each of chopped carrot and celery1 a slice of onion1 sprig of parsley1 one bay-leaf1 and three cloves2 add also one teaspoonful of beef extract 7obtained in jars7 dissolved in one cupful of hot water4 ,cover1 and let simmer for half an hour2 then add one half box of ,cox's gelatine1 which has been soaked in one half cupful of cold water for one hour4 ,stir until the gelatine is dissolved4 ,season with salt and pepper4 ,a tablespoonful of sherry improves the flavor4 ,if a deeper color is wanted add a few drops of kitchen bouquet or of caramel4 ,strain through a double cloth4 ,if it is for molding it can be used at once1 as there is no grease to be removed4 ,if for garnishing1 turn it into a shallow pan to set4 ,it can be stamped or cut into fancy shapes more easily if cooled in layers of the right thickness4 ,gelatine added to a good1 clear consomme will give the same results4 ,observe always the proportion of one box1 or one and a half ounces1 of gelatine to one and a quarter quarts 7five cupfuls7 of liquor4 ,this simple method of making aspic is very quick1 and is entirely satisfactory4 ,,chicken ,,aspic ,,or ,,jelly ,boil a fowl as directed for chicken stock 7page #ajj71 or boil a chicken or knuckle of veal1 as directed for white stock 7page #ii74 ,let the stock cool1 take off the grease1 then clarify the stock4 ,if veal has been used1 no gelatine will be needed4 ,if chicken only has been used in making the stock1 add to each quart of hot clarified stock three quarters of a box of ,cox's gelatine which has been soaked one hour in a half cupful of cold water4 ,stir until the gelatine is dissolved4 ,this will make a very clear1 light-colored jelly1 good for molding1 salads1 chicken1 etc4 ,,aspic ,,croutons ,when jelly is to be used for garnishing1 pour it into a square shallow pan one and a half inches deep4 ,when it has thoroughly set1 turn it onto a slightly dampened napkin spread on a board in a cool place4 ,dip a knife into hot water4 ,wipe it dry1 and cut the jelly in strips the same width as the thickness of the jelly1 then cut it straight across1 making squares1 or diagonally across1 making diamonds1 or into triangles4 ,these croutons will stand upright1 and can be used for borders4 ,if it is to be laid flat on the dish the strips need be cut only one quarter of an inch thick1 and can be stamped with cutters into fancy shapes4 ,small molds may also be used for getting fancy forms of aspic4 7,see illustration facing page #cbh47 ,illustration3 ,,aspic ,,cut ,,into ,,ornamental ,,shapes ,,for ,,garnishing ,,cold ,,dishes4 ,,to ,,chop ,,jelly ,place the jelly on a cold plate1 and with a knife cut it very slowly until it is of the right size4 ,the chopped jelly is used to cover the top of meats1 or to place like a wreath around it on the dish4 ,it may be either fine or coarse1 but each piece should be separate and distinct1 and can be kept so if cut slowly in a cool place1 and not allowed to become warm4 ,,to ,,mold ,,jelly 7,,see ,,illustrations7 ,where the mold is to be only coated with jelly1 first paste a piece of paper over the top of the mold2 when it is firm1 cut an opening in the paper1 and pour in some cold1 but liquid1 jelly2 and turn the mold on ice slowly1 so that every part may be coated4 ,pour off any of the jelly that has not adhered to the sides2 remove the paper1 and lay in the material which is to fill the center of the mold4 ,this method is employed where only a thin coating of jelly is required4 ,where it is to be an inch or more in thickness it is better to use a double mold as explained below4 ,when molding jelly have a pan of cracked ice1 and set the mold into it4 ,the jelly will then quickly harden4 ,the mold must be perfectly firm and upright1 or the jelly will not stand straight when unmolded4 ,do not oil or grease a mold used for jelly4 7,see illustrations facing pages #cbf and #chf47 ,illustration3 #a4 ,,small ,,molds ,,for ,,aspic4 #b4 ,,mold ,,with ,,paper ,,pasted ,,over ,,the ,,top ,,for ,,coating ,,the ,,mold4 7,,see ,,page #cbc47 ,,to ,,unmold ,,jelly ,dip the mold quickly into warm 7not hot7 water2 wipe it dry1 place the dish over the top of the mold1 and turn them over together4 ,if the jelly fails to slip out1 rub the mold with a cloth wrung out of hot water4 ,it takes only a low degree of heat to melt jelly1 and if too much is used the fine points and edges will be destroyed4 ,do not unmold jelly until it is time to serve it4 ,do not shake the mold in trying to get it free1 or the jelly is liable to break4 ,,to ,,ornament ,,molds ,lay whatever fancy pieces are used for the decoration carefully in place on the bottom of the mold4 ,with a spoon add only enough jelly to moisten them2 if too much is used1 the pieces will float out of place4 ,let the jelly harden and fix the decoration2 then add as much as will make a layer one half inch thick2 let that set2 then place the material which is to fill the center4 ,if it is a bird1 or anything in one piece1 add a little jelly to fix it in place2 then fill up the mold4 ,if the material is a soft substance1 set in the double mold 7see below72 or1 if one is not at hand1 add a few spoonfuls at a time of the filling1 leaving a space of one half an inch around the sides1 and fill this with jelly4 ,proceed in this way until the mold is full1 having the top covered with jelly1 so that when unmolded it will form a complete case4 ,if ornament is used on the sides of the mold1 arrange the decoration when the mold is filled to the right height1 dip the pieces in jelly to make them adhere1 and cover them very slowly at first1 so they will not float off4 ,when the filling is to be in alternate layers with jelly1 proceed in the same way1 adding one layer at a time1 and letting each one harden before the next is placed4 ,the mold should not be moved while being filled2 one layer should not become too hard before the next one is added1 and no dampness must settle on them4 ,any of these causes will make the jelly liable to separate when unmolded4 ,if the mold is placed on ice1 as directed1 the jelly hardens quickly1 and the filling is soon accomplished4 ,,double ,,molds ,for salads1 and also in many cases for sweet jellies1 it is easier to use a double mold4 ,if one is not at hand two ,charlotte ,russe molds may be substituted1 or any two molds or tins of the same shape1 one of which is an inch smaller than the other4 ,place the larger one on ice1 and pour into it enough jelly to make a layer on the bottom the same thickness as the width of space between the two molds4 ,when it is set1 place the smaller mold1 filled with ice1 on it2 and fill the space between the two with jelly4 ,when that has set1 remove with a spoon the ice from the small mold1 and pour in carefully a little warm water4 ,it can then be easily lifted out4 ,be careful not to have the water too warm4 ,fill the space left by the small mold with the material to be used1 leaving a space on top to cover with jelly--to encase it4 ,another way of molding jellies double1 besides using the double mold and the method given above in ornamenting molds1 is to fill the mold entirely with jelly1 and when it has hardened1 scoop out with a teaspoon1 heated in hot water and wiped dry1 enough of the center to give the space desired4 ,this has to be done very carefully1 as there is danger of the sides falling in4 7,see page #chf47 ,,decorations ,,for ,,meat ,,jelly ,,daisy ,,design ,cut a hard-boiled egg into slices one eighth of an inch thick4 ,with a pastry-bag tube or a small round vegetable-cutter stamp circles from the yolk4 ,cut the white strips diagonally1 so they form diamond-shaped pieces4 ,lay a round piece of yolk in the mold1 and the white pieces around it to simulate a daisy2 place small pieces of parsley beside it1 and use the stem of parsley for the stem of the daisy4 ,this decoration fits very well in a ,charlotte ,russe mold1 or in individual molds4 ,make two or three daisies on the large mold1 only one on the small ones4 ,illustration3 ,,daisy ,,design ,,for ,,aspic ,,jelly ,,forms4 7,,see ,,page #cbf47 #a4 ,yolk of hard-boiled egg4 #b4 ,white of hard-boiled egg4 #c4 ,parsley leaves4 #d4 ,parsley stems4 ,illustration3 ,,slice ,,of ,,white ,,of ,,hard-,,boiled ,,egg ,,cut ,,into ,,petals4 ,illustration3 ,,slices ,,of ,,tongue ,,in ,,aspic 7,,en ,,bellevue74 7,,see ,,page #hc47 ,,decorated ,,with ,,hard-,,boiled ,,egg ,,in ,,daisy ,,design4 7,,see ,,page #cbf47 ,,dish ,,garnished ,,with ,,olives ,,cut ,,in ,,halves4 ,,berry ,,design ,use capers1 grouped like berries1 along the stem4 ,use water-cress for leaves and parsley for stems4 ,this design1 being dark1 looks well in chicken or veal jelly4 ,illustration3 ,,berry ,,design ,,for ,,aspic4 7,,see ,,page #cbf47 #a4 ,capers4 #b4 ,parsley or water-cress4 #c4 ,parsley stems4 ,,to ,,decorate ,,with ,,truffles ,slice the truffles very thin2 stamp them into any form desired4 ,take each piece on a long pin1 and place it in a well-buttered mold2 or for jelly molds dip them in cold jelly1 and they will then adhere to the sides of the mold4 ,arrange the pieces symmetrically in any design4 ,if the truffle is cut in strips1 make geometrical forms4 ,some dishes may be ornamented after they are unmolded by dipping the pieces of truffle in cold but liquid jelly1 and then applying them4 ,the latter is the method used for chaudfroid dishes1 which are usually much ornamented4 7,see illustration facing page #cbj47 ,green peas1 carrots1 beets1 pickles1 string-beans1 radishes1 parsley1 etc41 in combinations1 can be made into various designs4 ,illustration3 ,,vegetables ,,and ,,truffles ,,cut ,,and ,,arranged ,,in ,,designs ,,for ,,decorating ,,molds1 ,,molded ,,dishes1 ,,or ,,chaudfroid ,,dishes4 7,,see ,,page #cbf47 #a4 ,vegetables4 #b4 ,truffles4 ,,socles ,socles are stands on which to raise birds1 chops1 or other articles above the dish to give them a better appearance1 and allow more garnishing4 ,they are also used as supports against which to rest larger pieces of meat1 fish1 tongue1 etc41 to keep them in place4 ,elaborate socles of various shapes are made of tallow by caterers1 but these are not practicable for ordinary cooks to undertake1 and they are also in questionable taste4 ,the simple supports given below are easily made1 and well repay the trouble1 especially for cold dishes4 ,they should be stuck to the dish with white of egg1 so they will be firm4 ,the simplest way of making a socle is to take a loaf of stale bread1 remove the crust1 and cut the crumb to the desired shape4 ,then spread it with butter1 and cover it with parsley chopped very fine4 ,if to be used for a hot dish1 immerse the bread in hot fat until it takes a golden brown4 ,another simple socle can be made of hominy4 ,fill a well-buttered cake-tin or plain mold with boiled hominy4 ,when cold it will retain the form of the mold4 ,if desired1 the sides of the mold can be ornamented with vegetables of different colors cut into fancy shapes4 7,see picture47 ,illustration3 ,,socles ,,or ,,supports ,,for ,,chops1 ,,birds1 ,,etc4 ,,form ,,made ,,of ,,rice1 ,,hominy ,,or ,,white ,,corn ,,meal ,,molded ,,in ,a ,,tin ,,basin4 7,,see ,,page #cbf47 #a4 ,green string beans4 #b4 ,balls of carrot or beet cut in halves1 or slices stamped into small rounds4 #c4 ,parsley stalk4 #d4 ,balls of carrot1 large green peas or capers4 #e4 ,slices of string beans4 ,illustration3 ,,blocks ,,of ,,bread ,,for ,,support ,,of ,,meat1 ,,poultry1 ,,fish1 ,,game1 ,,etc4 ,illustration3 ,,boned ,,birds ,,in ,,aspic ,,around ,,socle4 ,the boned birds are molded in fluted individual molds and decorated with hard-boiled egg in daisy design as directed on page #cbf4 ,dish garnished with parsley4 ,illustration3 ,,boned ,,birds ,,in ,,aspic1 ,,the ,,same ,,as ,,preceding ,,cut1 ,,served ,,on ,,flat ,,dish ,,and ,,garnished ,,with ,,parsley4 ,,rice ,,socle ,,or ,,casserole ,boil rice with three times its quantity of water1 and a little butter1 until it is very soft2 then mash or pound it in a mortar until it becomes a smooth1 elastic paste4 ,press the paste into a plain buttered mold or pan of the size desired for the socle1 and place a weight on it so it will be compact and firm when cold4 ,unmold1 and with a pointed knife1 a turnip cut wedge-shape1 and a butter-stamp1 mold the sides to fancy form4 ,brush it over with yolk of egg1 and place a moment in the oven to brown2 or it may be ornamented the same as the hominy supports1 with vegetables cut into fancy shapes4 7,see illustrations47 ,if wanted for a casserole1 scoop out carefully a hollow in the center1 and fill with chicken or any creamed meat1 or with vegetables4 ,,potato ,,casserole ,to a quart of seasoned mashed potato add four or six egg yolks4 ,stir it over the fire to dry it well2 then with the hands or a knife mold it into a hollow cylinder or into a cup-shaped form2 brush it over with yolk of egg1 and place it a moment in the oven to brown4 ,fill the center just before serving with any minced meat1 or with birds1 chops1 sweetbreads1 or any creamed dish4 ,the casserole may also be formed by pressing the potato into a mold which opens 7see illustration71 or any mold with fluted or plain sides1 which1 when buttered1 will let the potato slip out2 then egg and brown as before4 ,a ,,potato ,,support ,,for ,,hot ,,meats ,add slowly to two cupfuls of well-mashed sweet or white potato1 beating all the time over the fire1 one cupful of hot milk1 a tablespoonful of butter1 one quarter of a teaspoonful of pepper1 a teaspoonful of salt1 and lastly1 three beaten eggs4 ,butter well a plain mold of the shape desired2 sprinkle over it as many bread-crumbs as will stick to the butter2 turn in the puree of potatoes1 place the mold in a pan of water1 and bake for thirty minutes4 ,turn the molded potato in the centre of a dish1 and arrange chops or birds around and against it4 ,,croustades ,,of ,,bread ,take a loaf of bread two days old1 which was baked in a round or a square tin2 pare off the crust1 and carve it with a sharp-pointed knife into vase or cup-shape4 ,fry it in hot fat to gold color4 ,paint the inside with white of egg to prevent its soaking up the sauce of the filling4 ,fill with mushrooms1 chicken livers1 creamed chicken or any salpicon4 ,do not put the filling in until ready to serve1 and heat the croustade before adding it4 ,,roll ,,croustades ,cut off the tops of rolls1 or of home-made biscuits of any size4 ,remove the crumb from the inside2 butter the rolls inside and out1 and set in the oven to brown4 ,fill with any creamed meat or salpicon4 ,,chapter ,,xiv ,,chafing-,,dish ,,receipts ,,chafing-,,dish ,,cooking ,the chafing-dish1 although a time-honored utensil1 has recently had a renaissance4 ,to-day it is not more valued for the convenience than for the fun of it4 ,amateurs and epicures alike find pleasure in brewing and stewing over the alcohol lamp2 in preparing a luncheon dish1 or a novelty for tea2 but1 best of all1 at the midnight hour the chafing-dish does its best though most disastrous service1 for matutinal headaches have been called the desserts1 and just deserts of late suppers4 ,sidenote3 ,kind of chafing-dish to use4 ,the chafing-dish with double pan 7the lower one to hold hot water7 is the preferable one1 because dishes may be kept warm in the hot water1 and also because articles cooked with milk are liable to burn if cooked directly over the flame4 ,for safety from fire and staining1 the chafing-dish should stand on a large metal tray1 and the lamp should not be filled too full4 ,wood alcohol1 which is much cheaper than high-proof spirits1 answers just as well the purpose of heating1 but has an unpleasant odor4 ,sidenote3 ,russian bowls4 ,the various articles to be used in the preparation of the dish should be put into ,russian bowls1 and the bowls placed on a ,japanese tray4 ,these bowls are of wood1 and are made of all sizes4 ,they do not break1 they make no noise1 and are ornamental3 the last is a consideration which recommends them1 other things being equal1 where fancy work is being done4 ,the preliminary preparation of the foods should be done in the kitchen1 rather than before the party assembled to assist in the cooking operation with their advice1 praise1 and appetite4 ,sidenote3 ,wooden spoons4 ,wooden spoons1 which come in all sizes1 are also desirable to use1 as they do not become hot1 do not scratch the dish1 and are noiseless4 ,articles prepared in the chafing-dish are served directly from it1 therefore garnishing has no part1 but toast or croutons go well with most of the preparations1 and these can be toasted or reheated on an asbestos pad placed over the flame4 ,the water-pan containing hot water should be placed under the cooking-pan as soon as the flame is extinguished4 ,it will keep the dish warm1 and serve as a bain-marie 7the utensil employed in large kitchens for keeping dishes hot until time for serving74 ,two chafing-dishes are almost a requisite where no other fire than the lamp is to be called upon1 but with this batterie de cuisine a supper can be easily and quickly prepared without one half of it spoiling while the other half is being made ready--the toast and hot water1 for instance4 ,sidenote3 ,dishes suitable for chafing-dish4 ,the dishes most suitable for chafing-dish cooking are stews1 eggs1 and cheese4 ,stews can be modified in a great variety of ways1 the barbecue being a favorite one4 ,the simplest way of cooking in a chafing-dish is to put a little butter in the dish1 and when it bubbles add oysters1 mushrooms or any article which makes its own liquor2 this lacking1 a little water or milk is added1 and seasoning to taste4 ,canned chicken1 tongue1 salmon1 crabs1 and shrimps make good dishes and are easily prepared4 ,paprica1 a kind of red pepper1 is especially good for use in chafing-dish cookery instead of cayenne4 ,,panned ,,oysters ,for twenty-five oysters1 put in a chafing-dish one tablespoonful of butter4 ,when it is melted1 add the juice of half a lemon and one teaspoonful of chopped parsley4 ,then add the oysters1 which should be well drained4 ,cook1 stirring carefully1 until they are plump and the gills a little frilled--no longer4 ,season with salt and pepper1 and serve at once on toast4 ,the oysters exude enough juice to soften the toast4 ,or let the butter brown in the chafing-dish1 then add the oysters and cook until plump or the gills are curled4 ,then add a wineglassful of sherry or ,madeira4 ,season with salt and pepper and serve at once4 ,when wine is used1 omit the lemon and parsley1 and do not season until after the wine is added1 as wine augments the flavor of salt4 ,have ready some toasted bread and pour the oysters over it2 or cut the toast into small squares1 stir them into the oysters and serve directly from the chafing-dish4 ,,oyster ,,stew ,put a tablespoonful of butter in the chafing-dish2 add a heaping tablespoonful of flour1 and cook a few minutes1 stirring all the time so it will not color4 ,add a cupful of milk slowly and stir until it begins to thicken2 then add the oyster liquor 7have the liquor strained so it will be free from pieces of shell71 and lastly the oysters2 season with salt and pepper and a little celery salt if liked4 ,as soon as the edges of the oysters curl they are done1 and the cooking must be arrested1 or they will become tough4 ,,creamed ,,oysters ,,and ,,clams ,see receipt for creamed clams 7page #ace74 ,this receipt can easily be prepared in the chafing-dish4 ,also oysters a la ,poulette given on page #acc4 ,,barbecue ,,of ,,fish ,marinate one pound of any cold boiled white fish in one tablespoonful of oil1 one tablespoonful of vinegar1 one slice of onion1 pepper and salt4 ,leave the fish in as large pieces as possible4 ,put in a chafing-dish three tablespoonfuls of tomato catsup1 three tablespoonfuls of sherry1 three tablespoonfuls of butter4 ,put the butter in first1 and when melted add the catsup and wine and then the fish4 ,baste the fish with the liquor until it is thoroughly heated1 and it is then ready to serve4 ,thin slices of cooked cold beef1 veal1 or ham may also be cooked in this way4 ,,eggs ,,with ,,tomatoes ,put into the chafing-dish a cupful of canned tomatoes1 and cook until they begin to soften2 then season with one tablespoonful of butter1 salt and pepper to taste4 ,add two beaten eggs1 and stir constantly until they begin to thicken4 ,then extinguish the flame1 and the heat of the dish will be sufficient to complete the cooking4 ,stir constantly until they are of the consistency of scrambled eggs4 ,serve at once1 or they will separate4 ,,tomatoes ,,and ,,rice ,put into a chafing-dish a half cupful of tomatoes2 add a bay-leaf1 a few drops of onion-juice1 pepper and salt to taste4 ,let them cook until tender1 then remove the bay-leaf and stir in as much boiled rice as can be well coated and moistened with the tomatoes4 ,serve with cracker biscuits4 ,,creamed ,,dishes 7,,eggs1 ,,chicken1 ,,or ,,veal7 ,use the double pan with water4 ,make a white sauce by putting in the chafing-dish one tablespoonful of butter2 let it bubble1 then stir in one tablespoonful of flour2 let it cook a few minutes1 but not brown2 then add a cupful of milk slowly1 stirring all the time until it is a little thickened4 ,season with pepper and salt4 ,lay in carefully thick slices of hard-boiled egg4 ,as soon as they are heated1 place them on slices of toast softened with hot water1 and pour the thickened sauce over them4 ,for chicken or meat1 season the sauce with a few drops of onion-juice1 a little chopped celery if convenient1 salt1 pepper1 and paprica4 ,have the chicken in good-sized pieces1 or meat in thin slices1 and leave them in the sauce only long enough to become well heated2 canned chicken or turkey may be used4 ,any kind of meat can be minced and used in this way1 in which case the sauce should be made with half milk and half stock4 ,if stock is not at hand extract of beef 7one teaspoonful to a cupful of boiling water7 may be substituted4 ,with chicken or oysters1 the yolk of an egg is added just before it is removed1 which makes it a la poulette4 ,,dishes ,a ,,la ,,newburg ,these are favorite chafing-dish preparations1 and may be made of lobster1 crabs1 shrimps1 soft-shelled clams1 chicken1 or cold boiled halibut4 ,lobster3 ,take the meat of one boiled lobster1 put it in a chafing-dish with a tablespoonful of butter1 a teaspoonful of salt1 a dash of cayenne or of paprica4 ,stir lightly with a fork for three minutes1 or until the lobster is well heated2 then add a wineglassful of sherry or of ,madeira1 cook for another three minutes1 and then add the beaten yolks of three eggs1 diluted with a half pint of cream4 ,stir the mixture constantly for a minute1 or just long enough to set the egg4 ,if cooked too long it will curdle2 serve at once4 ,prepare the dishes a la ,newburg with a double pan4 ,for soft-shell clams use only the soft half of the clam4 ,for chicken use the white meat cut into inch squares4 ,for halibut leave the pieces large1 and break them as little as possible4 ,,terrapin ,the prepared terrapin which comes in cans is the best for the chafing-dish1 and needs only to be heated and seasoned to taste4 ,,chicken ,,livers ,,with ,,madeira ,put a tablespoonful of butter in the chafing-dish2 add the livers cut into pieces2 cook them directly over the flame1 turning them constantly1 and dredge them while cooking with a tablespoonful of flour4 ,it will take about five minutes to cook them2 add a cupful of stock1 and a few drops of kitchen bouquet4 ,then place the pan in the double pan containing water already hot2 add to the livers a half cupful of ,madeira and a few stoned olives2 season with salt1 pepper1 and paprica after the wine is in2 cover and let it simmer for ten minutes4 ,serve with croutons4 ,,crab ,,toast ,put into the chafing-dish a tablespoonful of butter2 when it is melted1 add a tablespoonful of chopped celery1 a teaspoonful of flour1 a half cupful of cream or milk1 and a canful of crab meat4 ,stir until the moisture is nearly evaporated2 add a tablespoonful of sherry1 salt and pepper1 and paprica to taste2 spread on toasted biscuits1 or on thin slices of toast4 ,,smelts ,a ,,la ,,toulouse #ab smelts4 #a_/b cupful of white wine4 #c tablespoonfuls of liquor from the mushroom can4 #a tablespoonful of butter4 #a tablespoonful of flour4 #a dozen canned mushrooms4 #a truffle4 ,cut down the back of the smelts1 and remove the bone2 close the fish1 and lay them in the chafing-dish with the wine and mushroom liquor taken from the can4 ,cook until done1 which will take five or six minutes4 ,remove and place the smelts on a hot dish4 ,mix with the liquor in which they were boiled one cupful of stock2 rub together the butter and flour1 and stir this in also1 leaving it on the spoon until by stirring it is dissolved4 7,this method prevents its getting lumpy47 ,then add the chopped mushrooms and chopped truffle4 ,season with salt and paprica or a dash of cayenne4 ,cook1 stirring all the time until the sauce is creamy2 then pour it over the fish4 ,serve with croutons4 ,this is a good supper dish4 ,,meats ,,venison ,put a tablespoonful of butter in a chafing-dish4 ,when it is very hot1 lay in a piece of venison steak2 let it cook a minute on both sides4 ,use spoons for turning the meat1 so as not to pierce it4 ,when the surfaces are seared1 add a glassful of currant jelly1 and baste the venison constantly with the liquid jelly until cooked rare4 ,extinguish the flame1 and cut and serve the meat from the chafing-dish4 ,,mutton ,lay a slice of mutton cut from the leg into a hot chafing-dish2 turn it constantly1 using two spoons1 until it is cooked rare4 ,extinguish the flame1 and cover the meat with a maitre d'hotel sauce 7page #bhf74 ,if preferred1 spread it with currant jelly or with plum sauce2 or prepare it the same as venison1 with a little butter1 and1 instead of jelly1 add a half canful of tomatoes1 and finish the cooking in the same way4 ,season with a little onion-juice1 pepper1 and salt4 ,,beef ,a small steak can be pan-broiled in the same way4 ,for beef a maitre d'hotel sauce must be used4 ,a ,delmonico steak or a small porterhouse steak1 with the bones removed1 are the best cuts to use4 ,any meat cooked in the chafing-dish should have all the fat trimmed off1 so that there will be less odor4 ,,welsh ,,rarebit ,,and ,,golden ,,buck ,receipts for ,welsh ,rarebit and ,golden ,buck are given on pages #cga and #cgb4 ,,fondue ,,brillat-,,savarin ,savarin gives this receipt1 which he says is taken from the papers of a ,swiss bailiff4 ,he says3 ,it is a dish of ,swiss origin1 is healthy1 savory1 appetizing1 quickly made1 and1 moreover1 is always ready to present to unexpected guests4 ,he relates an anecdote of the sixteenth century of a ,m4 de ,madot1 newly appointed ,bishop of ,belley1 who at a feast given in honor of his arrival1 mistaking the fondue for cream1 eat it with a spoon instead of a fork4 ,this caused so much comment that the next day no two people met who did not say3 ,do you know how the new bishop eat his fondue last night8 ,yes2 he eat it with a spoon4 ,i have it from an eye-witness4 ,and soon the news spread over the diocese4 ,,receipt ,weigh as many eggs as you have guests4 ,take one third their weight of ,gruyere cheese1 and one sixth their weight of butter4 ,beat the eggs well in a saucepan2 add the cheese1 grated1 and the butter4 ,put the saucepan on the fire and stir until the mixture is soft and creamy2 then add salt1 more or less1 according to the age of the cheese1 and a generous amount of pepper1 which is one of the positive characters of the dish4 ,serve on a hot plate4 ,bring in the best wine1 drink roundly of it1 and you will see wonders4 ,,pineapple ,,canapes ,split in two some square sponge-cakes1 which can be bought at the baker's for two cents each4 ,put a little butter in the chafing-dish4 ,when it is hot put in the slices of cake1 and brown them a little on both sides4 ,lay the slices on a plate1 and spread each one with a layer of canned chopped pineapple4 ,turn the juice from the can into the chafing-dish4 ,moisten a teaspoonful of arrowroot with cold water1 stir it slowly into the hot juice1 and continue to stir until it becomes thickened and clear4 ,pour the sauce over the slices of spread cake4 ,if more than a cupful of juice is used1 add more arrowroot in proportion4 ,any kind of fruit1 and slices of sponge cake or of brioche1 can be used instead of the square individual cakes4 ,strawberries1 raspberries1 or peaches make good sweet canapes4 ,,chocolate ,,made ,,with ,,condensed ,,milk ,fill the cups to be used about one third full of condensed milk2 add a heaping teaspoonful of instantaneous chocolate1 which is chocolate ground to a fine powder4 ,mix them well together2 then fill the cup with boiling water1 and stir until the chocolate and milk are dissolved4 ,no sugar is needed1 as the milk is sweetened to preserve it4 ,,chapter ,,xv ,,bread ,sidenote3 ,the yeast plant4 ,yeast is a minute plant1 and like other plants must have the right conditions of heat1 moisture1 and nourishment in order to live or to nourish4 ,it will be killed if scalded1 or if frozen1 as any other plant would be2 therefore1 as we depend upon the growth of this little plant for raising our bread1 we must give its requirements as much care as we do our geraniums or our roses4 ,the yeast plant takes its nourishment from sugar4 ,this is found in flour4 ,it converts this sugar into carbonic acid gas and alcohol1 and the pressure of this gas causes the mixture in which it is generated to become inflated1 or to rise4 ,illustration3 ,,forms ,,of ,,growth ,,of ,,the ,,yeast ,,plant4 ,sidenote3 ,making bread4 ,in mixing bread1 we put the yeast into warm 7not hot7 water2 this we mix with flour1 thus supplying the moisture and nourishment required4 ,we put this mixture in a warm place to force the growth of the plant4 ,when the dough has become sufficiently inflated we put it into the oven and raise the heat to a degree which kills the plant and fixes the air cells1 and our bread is done4 ,sidenote3 ,yeast4 ,in cities1 where fresh compressed yeast can be obtained1 it is not worth while to prepare one's own4 ,where this cannot be had1 the dry yeast-cakes often give satisfactory results1 but are not as reliable as a liquid yeast1 which in the country it is often necessary as well as desirable to make4 ,,dick ,,bennet',s ,,receipt ,,for ,,yeast ,peel nine good-sized potatoes1 and boil them with a large handful of loose hops tied in a thin muslin bag4 ,use enough water to cover them well4 ,when the potatoes are tender strain off the water4 ,mash the potatoes1 return them to the water in which they were boiled1 and mix them well together4 ,add two tablespoonfuls of flour1 one half cupful of granulated sugar1 and one tablespoonful of salt4 ,cook it for a few minutes1 adding sufficient flour to make a thin batter4 ,set it aside until lukewarm2 then add a yeast-cake1 or a cupful of liquid yeast4 ,mix it well and place in a stone jar4 ,let it stand for twelve hours in a warm place4 ,stir it three times during this period4 ,place a weight on the lid of the jar1 and set it in a cool place4 ,,yeast ,,receipt ,no4 #b #f grated raw potatoes4 #a cupful of brown sugar4 #a_/b cupful of salt4 #b quarts of flour4 ,mix these together1 and add enough water to make a batter as thick as that used for griddle cakes4 ,pour two quarts of boiling water on as many hops as one can hold in the hand4 ,let them boil for five minutes4 ,strain off the water1 and while hot add it to the batter4 ,when it is lukewarm add a cupful of yeast1 or a yeast cake4 ,let it stand several hours in a warm place until it rises1 or the top is covered with bubbles4 ,then place in glass preserve jars1 and keep in a cool place4 ,use a granite-ware saucepan and a wooden spoon when making yeast1 in order to keep a good color4 ,,what ,,to ,,do ,,when ,,yeast ,,is ,,not ,,obtainable ,,to ,,start ,,the ,,fermentation ,,in ,,making ,,yeast ,mix a thin batter of flour and water1 and let it stand in a warm place until it is full of bubbles4 ,this ferment has only half the strength of yeast1 so double the amount must be used4 ,,proportions ,,of ,,raising ,,materials ,,to ,,use1 ,,and ,,other ,,items ,one cake of compressed yeast is equal to one cupful of liquid yeast4 ,baking-powder is a mixture of soda1 cream of tartar1 and cornstarch1 or rice flour4 ,use one level teaspoonful of baking-powder to each cupful of flour4 ,use one even teaspoonful of soda and two full teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar to a quart of flour4 ,when sour milk is used1 take one even teaspoonful of soda to a pint of milk1 and omit the cream of tartar4 ,when molasses is used1 omit the cream of tartar1 and use one teaspoonful of soda to each cupful of molasses4 ,mix powders with the flour1 and sift them together1 so as to thoroughly mix them4 ,mix dry materials in one bowl and liquids in another2 combine them quickly1 and put at once into the oven4 ,the oven for baking bread should be hot enough to brown a teaspoonful of flour in five minutes4 ,for biscuits it should brown in one minute4 ,rolls brushed with milk just before baking will have a brown crust4 ,rubbing the crust with butter just before it is taken from the oven will make it crisp4 ,,general ,,directions ,,for ,,making ,,bread ,sidenote3 ,time required for making bread4 ,bread is often mixed the night before it is to be baked1 and left to rise from eight to ten hours2 but the whole process of bread-making1 from the mixing to the serving1 can be done in two and a half hours if sufficient yeast is used4 ,in hot weather it is desirable to complete the work in a short time1 in order to prevent fermentation or souring1 which occurs if left too long a time4 ,four hours and a half is ample time for the whole process1 using the ordinary amount of yeast2 two hours for the mixing and rising of the sponge or dough2 one half hour for the kneading and molding2 one hour for the loaves to rise in the pans1 and one hour for the baking4 ,sidenote3 ,raising the bread4 ,a thin batter called a sponge may be made at night1 and the rest of the flour added in the morning1 or the dough may be mixed and kneaded at night and only molded into loaves in the morning2 but a better way1 especially in summer1 is to set the bread early in the morning and have it baked by noon4 ,it needs to rise twice1 once either in the sponge or in the dough1 and again after it is molded into loaves4 ,the old way of letting it rise three times is unnecessary1 and increases the danger of souring4 ,if the dough gets very light before one is ready to work it1 it should be cut away from the sides of the pan and pressed down in the center with the knife4 ,this liberates some of the gas and retards the fermentation4 ,this can be done several times4 ,if it rises too high it will collapse1 which means souring1 but before that it loses its best flavor1 and so should not be allowed to more than double its bulk4 ,sidenote3 ,proportions of materials4 ,the proportions of flour1 liquid1 and yeast cannot be exactly given1 as flour of different qualities and degrees of dryness will absorb more or less liquid1 and the amount of yeast to be used depends both upon the time allowed and the temperature4 ,two cupfuls of liquid will take six to seven cupfuls of sifted flour1 and this will make two small loaves4 ,one half a compressed yeast cake will raise this amount in two hours if kept in a warm place4 ,the other ingredients for this quantity are one teaspoonful of salt1 one tablespoonful of sugar1 and one tablespoonful of butter1 lard1 or cottolene1 if shortening is desired4 ,bread made with milk instead of water1 and with shortening1 is more tender than when water alone is used4 ,boiled potatoes are sometimes added1 and give a more moist bread4 ,sidenote3 ,mixing4 ,dissolve the yeast in a part of the tepid water2 in the rest of the water mix the salt1 sugar1 and butter1 add the dissolved yeast1 and then stir in enough flour to make a soft dough which will not stick to the hands4 ,if the flour is cold warm it4 ,if milk is used1 scald it1 then allow it to become tepid before mixing it with the yeast4 ,place the pan in a warm place free from draughts4 ,when the dough is to be made into rolls or fancy forms1 it needs to be a little stiffer than for loaves4 ,sidenote3 ,making a sponge4 ,a sponge is a thin batter made by mixing only a little flour with the other ingredients4 ,this is left to stand until filled with large bubbles4 ,the rest of the flour is then added1 to make the dough4 ,when bread is to be made in a short time1 it is better to set a sponge instead of making a dough at first2 for in this way the second rising will be a little quicker4 ,sidenote3 ,the crust on dough4 ,when a dough is mixed and set aside to rise1 cover the pan with several thicknesses of cloth to exclude the air and so prevent a crust forming on the top4 ,it helps also to keep the dough at an even temperature4 ,if a crust forms it is difficult to mix it in so thoroughly that it does not leave hard spots and lines in the bread4 ,there is a bread-pan made with close-fitting cover1 which is recommended4 ,sidenote3 ,kneading and molding4 ,when the dough is made1 it should be kneaded for twenty to thirty minutes4 ,turn it from the pan onto a board1 and work it by drawing it forward with the fingers and pushing it away with the balls of the hands1 turning it all the time4 ,this stretches the gluten and changes it from a sticky paste to a smooth1 elastic substance4 ,use as little flour on the board as possible1 and work it until it no longer sticks4 ,the more it is worked the finer will be the grain1 and the less flour used the better will be the bread4 ,sidenote3 ,baking4 ,when dough is made at the first mixing1 return it to the pan after it is kneaded and let it rise to double its size 7not more71 and then work it down1 mold it into loaves1 and let it rise a second time in the baking-pans4 ,when a sponge is made1 knead the dough when the flour is added to the sponge1 and put it at once into the baking-pans4 ,divide the dough evenly and shape it to the pans as well as possible1 filling the pans only half full4 ,cover and set them in a warm place free from draughts4 ,when they have doubled 7not more7 in size1 put them in the oven4 ,the loaf rises a little more in the oven4 ,if it is too light1 it is likely to fall1 which means it has soured1 and for this there is no remedy4 ,the loaf in the pan should rise in one hour4 ,sidenote3 ,the fire4 ,sidenote3 ,time4 ,care in baking is even more essential than care in mixing and raising the bread4 ,test the oven by putting in a teaspoonful of flour4 ,if it browns the flour in five minutes the heat is right4 ,have the fire prepared so it will not need replenishing during the hour required for the baking4 ,the bread rises after it goes in the oven1 and is likely to rise unevenly if the oven is hotter on one side than the other2 therefore it should be watched and turned carefully if necessary4 ,at the end of ten to fifteen minutes the top should be browned1 and this will arrest the rising4 ,if the oven is too cool1 the bread is likely to rise so much as to run over the pan1 or to have a hole in the center4 ,if the oven is too hot it will make a crust too soon1 the centre be underdone1 and the crust be too thick4 ,one hour is the time required for baking the ordinary sized loaf4 ,sidenote3 ,care of bread after it is baked4 ,when the bread is taken from the oven turn it out of the pans and support the loaves in such a way that the air will reach all sides4 ,if the loaves stand flat the bottom crust will become moist4 ,if wrapped in cloth it will do the same and give a soft crust1 which1 however1 some prefer to have4 ,it should not be put in the bread-box until entirely cold4 ,sidenote3 ,baking bread rolls4 ,for baking rolls the rule is different from that for bread4 ,rolls should rise1 to be very light1 more than double their original size1 and the oven be hot enough to form a crust at once4 ,it should brown flour in one minute and bake the rolls in fifteen to twenty minutes4 ,sidenote3 ,flour4 ,the ordinary white flour of best quality is nearly all starch1 the nourishing parts of the wheat having been mostly all removed by the bolting to make it white4 ,the whole wheat flour makes a much more nourishing and health-giving bread1 and when the habit of eating it is once formed1 bread made of the white flour is no longer liked4 ,sidenote3 ,pans4 ,sidenote3 ,different shapes for variety4 ,there is a variety of bread-pans giving loaves of different shapes to be used for different purposes4 ,besides the square tin which gives the ordinary square loaf1 there is a sheet iron rounded pan open at the ends4 ,the dough for this pan is made into a long roll a little thicker in the middle than at the ends4 ,it gives the shape of the ,vienna loaf4 ,after the bread has risen cut it across the top in three diagonal slashes with a sharp knife2 when it is nearly baked brush over the top with a thin boiled cornstarch1 and it will further resemble the ,vienna loaf4 ,for dinner bread1 there is a pan a foot long of two flutes1 about two inches each across and open at the ends2 for this roll the dough long and round1 or make two smaller rolls and twist them together2 bake in a hot oven like biscuits4 ,this gives a long1 round crusty loaf like the ,french bread4 ,a pan of small flutes is used for dinner sticks or finger rolls1 giving a pencil of bread three quarters of an inch thick and five inches long4 ,bread made in different shapes gives a pleasant variety and often seems like a different article when baked so as to give more or less crust4 ,illustration3 ,,bread ,,and ,,roll ,,tins4 ,,water ,,bread ,no4 #a 7,,two ,,small ,,loaves7 #b cupfuls of tepid water4 #a teaspoonful of salt4 #a_/b compressed yeast cake4 #f to #g cupfuls of flour4 ,for mixing1 kneading1 and baking1 see general directions given at head of chapter4 ,,water ,,bread ,no4 #b 7,,two ,,small ,,loaves7 #b cupfuls of tepid water4 #a_/b cake of compressed yeast4 #a teaspoonful of salt4 #f to #g cupfuls of flour4 #a tablespoonful of sugar4 #a tablespoonful of butter1 lard1 drippings1 or cottolene4 ,for mixing1 kneading1 and baking1 see general directions given at head of chapter4 ,,milk ,,bread ,make the same as ,water ,bread ,no4 #b1 but use milk in place of the water1 or use half milk and half water4 ,,potato ,,bread ,add one medium-sized mashed boiled potato to the sponge of any of the foregoing receipts4 ,potato gives a more moist bread1 which retains its freshness longer4 ,,receipt ,,for ,,one ,,loaf ,,of ,,bread ,,or ,,one ,,pan ,,of ,,biscuits ,,to ,,be ,,made ,,in ,,two ,,hours #a cupful of scalded milk4 #a_/d cupful of butter4 #c yeast cakes4 #a tablespoonful of sugar #a_/b teaspoonful of salt4 ,white of one egg4 #c to #d cupfuls of flour4 ,make a sponge2 let it stand in a warm place in a pan of warm water until full of bubbles2 then add the flour1 knead it for twenty minutes1 mold into loaf1 and let it rise in the baking-pan until double in size1 and bake4 ,,bread ,,made ,,with ,,baking-,,powder ,add to four quarts of flour a teaspoonful of salt and six teaspoonfuls of baking-powder4 ,sift them three times so as to thoroughly mix them1 and then add slowly a quart of cold water1 or enough to make a dough of the right consistency4 ,mold it quickly into four loaves1 and put at once into a moderate oven for one and a quarter hours4 ,,bread ,,made ,,of ,,whole ,,wheat ,,flour ,dissolve a yeast cake in two tablespoonfuls of tepid water4 ,put into a bowl a pint of milk2 add to it a pint of boiling water1 and let it stand until it is lukewarm2 then add the dissolved yeast1 a teaspoonful of salt1 and enough whole wheat flour to make a thick batter4 ,the batter should drop1 but not run off the spoon4 ,beat this batter with a spoon for fifteen minutes4 ,it becomes quite soft and liquid by beating4 ,add enough more flour to make a dough2 turn it onto the board and knead it a few minutes2 return it to pan1 and let rise for three hours1 or until light4 ,mold it into small loaves2 let it rise again1 and bake in moderate oven thirty to forty-five minutes4 ,,graham ,,bread ,dissolve a half teaspoonful of soda in a cupful of lukewarm water4 ,put a tablespoonful of butter into a tablespoonful and a half of molasses1 and let them warm until the butter is melted4 ,add to it the dissolved soda and water1 and a half teaspoonful of salt4 ,stir this mixture into a cupful of light white bread sponge1 and add enough ,graham flour to make a stiff batter1 or very thin dough4 ,turn into a greased pan4 ,let it rise until even with the top of the pan1 and bake in a moderate oven an hour or an hour and a quarter4 ,use a spoon1 and not the hands1 for mixing ,graham flour4 ,a little white flour may be mixed with the ,graham flour if a lighter colored and dryer bread is preferred4 ,,gluten ,,bread ,pour a pint of boiling water into a pint of milk2 add a teaspoonful of butter and a teaspoonful of salt4 ,let it stand until it is lukewarm2 then add a well-beaten egg1 a quarter of a yeast-cake dissolved1 and enough gluten to make a soft batter4 ,cover and stand in a warm place to rise2 then add enough gluten to make a soft dough1 and knead it well4 ,form it into four loaves1 and let rise again4 ,bake for one hour4 ,gluten bread requires less yeast and less time to rise than ordinary bread4 ,,boston ,,brown ,,bread #b cupfuls of white cornmeal4 #b cupfuls of yellow cornmeal4 #b cupfuls of ,graham flour or of rye meal or of white flour4 #a cupful of molasses4 #b cupfuls of milk 7one of them being sour milk1 if convenient74 #b cupfuls of boiling water4 #a teaspoonful of salt4 #a teaspoonful of soda4 ,mix well the flour1 meal1 and salt2 add to them the boiling water4 ,mix the sweet milk and molasses together1 and add them to the scalded meal4 ,dissolve the soda in the sour milk1 and add it last4 ,turn the mixture into a covered cylindrical mold or into a covered pail1 and steam it for three hours2 then uncover and bake in the oven for half an hour4 ,slices of this bread toasted1 buttered1 and covered with cream make a good breakfast or luncheon dish4 ,,toast ,cut the bread in even slices one quarter of an inch thick4 ,cut off the crust and trim the pieces into even and uniform shape4 ,there is no waste in this1 as the scraps of bread can be dried and crumbed4 ,if the bread is fresh1 let it dry a few minutes in the oven4 ,place it on a wire toaster1 and turn often until well dried through2 then hold it over the coals a minute to take an even golden color4 ,toast requires careful watching1 or it will burn or be unevenly colored4 ,toast should not be served until the moment it is required4 ,a few pieces only should be served at a time1 and the plate should be hot4 ,if wrapped in a napkin1 or piled up1 it quickly becomes damp and loses its crispness4 ,if a soft toast is wanted1 color the bread at once without drying it2 the center will then be only heated4 ,toast used under game or meats is made dry1 buttered1 and sprinkled with salt2 then softened with a little boiling water4 ,,milk ,,toast ,make a dry toast2 spread it with butter1 and sprinkle it with salt4 ,place it in the dish in which it is to be served1 and pour over it a little boiling water2 cover it1 and place in the oven a few minutes to steam and soak up the water4 ,it should have enough water to entirely soften it1 but not lose its shape4 ,put one teaspoonful of butter in a saucepan4 ,when it bubbles1 stir in a teaspoonful of flour1 and let it cook a minute without coloring4 ,add slowly1 stirring all the time1 one cupful of milk4 ,cook until it is slightly thickened2 add a saltspoonful of salt4 ,pour this thickened milk over the softened toast just before serving4 ,bread for milk toast should be cut in even slices one half inch thick1 thoroughly dried in toasting1 evenly colored1 and steamed until tender4 ,when cream is used1 it is scalded and poured over the softened toast4 ,,panada ,split ,bent's water biscuits in two2 sprinkle salt or sugar between them1 and place together again2 or1 use two large soda biscuits1 or pilot bread1 or ,passover bread4 ,place them in the dish in which they will be served2 pour over enough boiling water to cover them4 ,cover the dish1 and place it in the open oven1 or on the hot shelf1 until the biscuits have become soft like jelly2 pour off any water that has not been absorbed1 using care not to break the biscuits4 ,sprinkle again with salt or sugar4 ,a little cream or hot milk can be added if desired4 ,,pulled ,,bread ,break off irregular pieces of the crumb of fresh bread1 and dry it in a very slow oven until lightly colored4 ,the inside of fresh biscuits left over can be treated in this way1 and will keep an indefinite time4 ,they should be heated in the oven when served1 and are good with chocolate1 or coffee1 or bouillon4 ,the crusts of the biscuits may be used as cups for creamed meats or vegetables1 or for eggs4 ,,zwieback ,cut rusks into slices one half inch thick1 and dry them in a very slow oven until dried through1 and of a deep yellow color4 ,slices of ,vienna bread can be used in the same way4 ,,bread ,,fritters ,take pieces of raised bread-dough the size of an egg1 drop them into smoking hot fat1 and fry to a gold color1 the same as doughnuts4 ,drain and serve on a napkin for breakfast1 or sprinkle them with powdered sugar and ground cinnamon mixed1 and serve them for luncheon4 ,,bread ,,rolls ,for one panful of biscuits take as much raised bread-dough as will make one loaf of bread4 ,use any kind of bread-dough1 but if no shortening has been used1 add a tablespoonful of butter to this amount of dough4 ,add also more flour to make a stiffer dough than for bread4 ,work it for ten minutes so as to give it a finer grain4 ,cut it into pieces half the size of an egg1 roll them into balls1 and place in a pan some distance apart4 ,if enough space is given1 each roll will be covered with crust1 which is the best part of hot breads4 ,if1 however1 the crumb is preferred1 place them in the pan near enough to run together in rising4 ,let the biscuits rise to more than double size1 and bake in a quick oven twenty to thirty minutes4 ,when removed from the oven rub the crusts with a little butter1 and wrap the rolls in a cloth until ready to serve4 ,this will give a tender crust4 ,if a deep color is liked1 brush the rolls with milk or egg before placing them in the oven4 ,a glaze is obtained by brushing them with sugar dissolved in milk when taken from the oven1 then replacing them in the oven again for a moment to dry4 ,,crescents ,add to bread-dough a little more sugar1 and enough flour to make a stiff dough4 ,roll it to one eighth inch thickness4 ,cut it into strips six inches wide1 and then into sharp triangles4 ,roll them up1 commencing at the base2 the point of the triangle will then come in the middle of the roll4 ,turn the points around into the shape of crescents4 ,place on tins to rise for half an hour1 brush the tops with water1 and bake until lightly colored4 ,when taken from the oven brush the tops with thin boiled cornstarch water1 and place again for a minute in the oven to glaze4 ,,braids ,,and ,,twists ,take any bread- or biscuit-dough4 ,roll it one inch thick1 and cut it into strips one inch wide4 ,roll the strips on the board to make them round4 ,brush the strips with butter4 ,braid or twist the strips together1 making them pointed at the ends1 and broad in the middle4 ,let them rise a little1 but not so much as to lose shape1 and bake in a quick oven4 ,glaze the tops the same as directed above for crescents4 ,,cleft ,,rolls ,make the dough into balls of the size desired4 ,after the rolls have risen cut each roll across the top with a sharp knife about an inch deep4 ,if cut twice it makes a cross roll4 ,glaze the tops as directed for crescents1 or brush them with milk and sugar4 ,,luncheon ,,and ,,tea ,,rolls #b quarts of flour4 #c cups of boiled milk4 #c tablespoonfuls of sugar4 #a teaspoonful of salt4 #a_/b cupful of butter4 ,whites of #b eggs4 #a_/b yeast cake4 ,boil the milk1 dissolve in it the sugar and salt1 and add the butter to melt it4 ,when this mixture becomes tepid1 add the beaten whites of the eggs and the yeast1 dissolved in two tablespoonfuls of water2 then stir in the flour1 and knead it for twenty to thirty minutes2 cover it well1 and put it aside in a warm place free from draughts to rise over night4 ,if to be used for breakfast1 mold the rolls to any shape desired2 let them rise to more than double their size1 and bake for thirty minutes4 ,if they are to be used for luncheon1 cut down with a knife the raised dough in the morning1 and keep it in a cool place until an hour and a half before the time for serving the rolls2 then mold1 raise1 and bake them4 ,if they are to be used for tea1 do not set the dough until morning4 ,in summer allow four and a half hours for the whole work1 the same as directed for bread on page #cdj4 ,,parker ,,house ,,rolls #b quarts of flour4 #b tablespoonfuls of butter1 or lard1 or cottolene4 #a teaspoonful of salt4 #a pint of milk4 #a_/c compressed yeast cake4 #a_/b cupful of sugar 7scant74 ,put the salt into the flour1 and work in the shortening thoroughly4 ,dissolve the yeast in one cupful of warm water4 ,scald the milk1 and dissolve the sugar in it after it is taken off the fire4 ,when the milk is lukewarm1 mix the yeast with it4 ,make a hollow in the center of the flour1 and pour into it the milk and yeast mixture4 ,sprinkle a little of the flour over the top4 ,cover the pan well1 and leave it to rise4 ,if this sponge is set at five o'clock1 at ten o'clock stir the whole together thoroughly with a spoon4 ,do not beat it1 but stir it well1 as it gets no other kneading4 ,in the morning turn the dough onto a board1 work it together a little1 and roll it evenly one half inch thick4 ,lift the dough off the board a little to let it shrink all it will before cutting4 ,cut it into rounds with a good-sized biscuit-cutter4 ,place a small piece of butter on one side1 and double the other side over it1 so the edges meet4 ,let them rise for two hours1 and bake in a quick oven for twenty minutes4 ,if the rolls are to be used for luncheon1 cut down the dough in the morning and keep it in a cool place until the time for molding them4 ,if for tea1 set the sponge in the morning1 using one half cake of compressed yeast4#ceb-99 ,,footnotes3 #ceb-99 ,place the rolls far enough apart in the pan to give room for them to rise without running together4 ,,tea ,,biscuits ,,made ,,with ,,baking ,,powder #d cupfuls of sifted flour4 #c teaspoonfuls of baking-powder4 #a teaspoonful of salt4 #a tablespoonful of butter4 ,add the salt and baking-powder to the flour and sift them4 ,rub in the butter well4 ,with a fork stir in lightly and quickly sufficient milk to make a soft dough4 ,the dough must be only just stiff enough to roll4 ,flour the board well1 turn the dough onto it1 and lightly roll it to a half inch thickness4 ,cut it into small circles1 brush the tops with milk1 and bake in a quick oven for twenty to thirty minutes4 ,,biscuits ,,made ,,with ,,sour ,,milk #a quart of flour4 #a teaspoonful of soda4 #a teaspoonful of salt4 #a tablespoonful of butter or lard4 ,milk4 ,mix the soda and the salt with the flour1 and sift them several times so they will be thoroughly mixed4 ,rub in the butter evenly4 ,stir in lightly with a fork enough sour milk to make a dough just stiff enough to roll4 ,the dough can be left very soft if the board is well floured and the rolling-pin is used very lightly1 patting the dough rather than rolling it4 ,roll it out quickly an inch thick4 ,cut it into small rounds4 ,bake in a quick oven twenty to thirty minutes4 ,the dough can be rolled half an inch thick1 and two rounds placed together with a small bit of butter between4 ,they are then called twin biscuits4 ,these biscuits may be made of sweet milk1 in which case two rounding teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar must be used with the soda and mixed with the flour4 ,,corn ,,bread ,no4 #a #b cupfuls of flour4 #a-a_/b cupfuls of cornmeal 7yellow or white74 #a_/b cupful of sugar4 #a saltspoonful of salt4 #c teaspoonfuls of baking powder4 #a-b_/c cupfuls of milk4 #a tablespoonful of butter or lard melted4 #b eggs4 ,mix the flour1 meal1 salt1 and baking-powder together thoroughly4 ,beat together the eggs and sugar2 add the butter1 then the flour mixture1 and lastly mix in quickly the milk and turn into a flat pan to bake4 ,sour milk can be used instead of sweet milk1 in which case a teaspoonful of soda dissolved in a quarter of a cupful of hot water is used1 and baking-powder is omitted4 ,,corn ,,bread ,no4 #b #a cupful of fine cornmeal sifted4 #a-a_/b cupfuls of milk4 #b eggs4 #a tablespoonful of butter4 #a teaspoonful of baking-powder4 #a teaspoonful of sugar4 ,scald the milk and pour it onto the sifted meal4 ,let it cool1 then add the melted butter1 salt1 sugar1 baking-powder1 and yolks of the eggs4 ,stir it quickly and thoroughly together1 and lastly fold in the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth4 ,bake in a flat pan in a hot oven for thirty minutes4 ,,puffs ,,or ,,pop-,,overs #b cupfuls of milk4 #b cupfuls of flour4 #b eggs 7whites and yolks beaten separately74 #a teaspoonful of salt4 ,mix the salt with the flour4 ,mix the beaten yolks with the milk1 and add them slowly to the flour to make a smooth batter4 ,lastly fold in the whipped whites4 ,put the batter at once into hot greased gem-pans1 filling them half full1 and put into a hot oven for thirty minutes4 ,serve at once1 as they fall as soon as the heat is lost4 ,,graham ,,gems #b cupfuls of ,graham flour4 #a cupful of milk4 #a cupful of water4 #b eggs4 #a_/b teaspoonful of salt4 #a tablespoonful of sugar4 ,mix the dry ingredients together2 beat the eggs separately4 ,mix the milk with the salt and sugar2 add the water1 then the flour1 and lastly fold in the whipped whites1 and put at once into very hot greased gem-pans1 filling them half full4 ,bake in a hot oven thirty minutes4 ,,corn ,,gems 7,,made ,,of ,,corn ,,flour7 #b eggs4 #a cupful of corn flour4 #a_/b cupful of white flour4 #a tablespoonful of butter4 #a cupful of milk4 #a teaspoonful of salt4 #a teaspoonful of baking-powder4 ,break the yolks of the eggs2 add to them milk1 salt1 and melted butter2 mix them well together1 then add the two kinds of flour4 ,beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth2 when they are ready1 add the baking-powder to the flour mixture and then fold in lightly the whipped whites4 ,turn at once into warm gem-pans1 a tablespoonful of batter into each one1 and bake in a hot oven for fifteen minutes4 ,this receipt can be used for any kind of flour4 ,,muffins ,no4 #a #b cupfuls of flour4 #a cupful of milk4 #a level tablespoonful of butter4 #b eggs 7beaten separately74 #a_/b teaspoonful of salt4 #b even teaspoonfuls of baking-powder4 ,mix thoroughly the baking-powder and salt with the flour4 ,stir the milk and yolks together2 add the butter1 melted2 then the flour1 and lastly fold in the whipped whites4 ,turn into hot gem-pans1 and bake at once in a very hot oven for fifteen to twenty minutes4 ,serve immediately4 ,,raised ,,muffins #a pint of milk1 scalded4 #a_/b compressed yeast-cake4 #b tablespoonfuls of butter4 #a tablespoonful of sugar4 #a teaspoonful of salt4 ,about #b-a_/b cupfuls of flour4 ,scald the milk1 and add the butter1 sugar and salt4 ,when it has become lukewarm1 add the yeast dissolved in a quarter cupful of lukewarm water4 ,stir in enough flour to make a drop batter1 cover it well1 place it in a warm place free from draughts1 and let rise over night4 ,in the morning stir it down1 grease some muffin-rings1 place them on a hot greased griddle1 fill the rings half full of batter4 ,it will rise to the top4 ,turn the muffins with a pancake turner and bake them on both sides until a thin brown crust is formed4 ,two eggs may be added to the batter in the morning if desired4 ,if so1 beat the yolks and whites separately and add the whites last4 ,,english ,,muffins ,,or ,,crumpets ,use the receipt for raised muffins1 omitting the sugar and eggs4 ,do not bake them so much4 ,turn them before the crust becomes brown4 ,when cold1 pull them apart and toast them4 ,,sally ,,lunn ,this is the same as the receipt for ,muffins ,no4 #a1 using three eggs instead of two1 and baking it in a cake-tin instead of gem-pans4 ,in this form it is served for luncheon or for tea4 ,,waffles #b cupfuls of flour4 #a teaspoonful of baking-powder4 #a-a_/d cupfuls of milk4 #a tablespoonful of butter1 or lard1 or cottolene4 #a_/b teaspoonful of salt4 #c eggs beaten separately4 ,mix the flour1 baking-powder1 and salt thoroughly together4 ,mix the yolks with the milk2 then the melted butter1 the flour1 and lastly the beaten whites4 ,have the waffle-iron very clean2 let it be thoroughly heated on both sides4 ,rub it over with a piece of salt pork1 or with a piece of butter tied in a clean rag4 ,close the iron1 and turn it so the grease will cover every part4 ,put enough batter into each section of the iron to fill it two-thirds full4 ,shut the iron1 and cook the waffles a minute or longer on each side4 ,serve the waffles hot1 using with them syrup or powdered sugar mixed with ground cinnamon4 ,,hominy ,,cake ,stir into one cupful of boiled hominy while it is still hot a teaspoonful of butter1 one saltspoonful of salt1 and the yolks of two eggs well beaten2 add slowly a cupful of milk1 and then a half cupful of fine cornmeal2 lastly1 fold in the whipped whites of two eggs4 ,bake in a flat tin in a hot oven for twenty to thirty minutes4 ,cold boiled hominy left over can be used for this dish by heating it with enough water to moisten it4 ,,oat ,,cake ,mix oatmeal1 which is ground fine1 with a little salt and enough water to make a stiff dough4 ,roll it on a floured board to one eighth inch thickness1 and bake it in one sheet in a slow oven without browning1 until dry and hard4 ,it should be gray in color4 ,when done1 break it into irregular pieces4 ,this is a ,scotch dish1 and in ,scotland is made with a fine oat flour1 which is difficult to obtain in this country4 ,,bran ,,biscuits #a pint of bran4 #a_/b pint of flour4 #a_/b pint of milk4 #f tablespoonfuls of molasses4 #a even teaspoonful of baking soda4 ,mix the bran1 flour1 and soda together1 mix the molasses and milk together1 and add the flour mixture4 ,bake in gem-pans4 ,two of these biscuits eaten at each meal act as a laxative and cure for constipation4 ,the receipt is furnished by a physician4 ,,bread ,,sticks ,any bread-dough may be used1 though that with shortening is preferred4 ,after it is kneaded enough to be elastic1 cut it into pieces half the size of an egg1 roll it on the board into a stick the size of a pencil and a foot long4 ,lay the strips on a floured baking-tin or sheet4 ,let them rise a very little1 and bake in a moderate oven1 so they will dry without browning4 ,serve them with bouillon or soups1 or with tea4 ,,rusks #a cupful of milk scalded4 #b tablespoonfuls of butter4 #c tablespoonfuls of sugar4 #b eggs4 #a_/b cake of compressed yeast4 #a_/b teaspoonful of salt4 ,flour4 ,make a sponge 7see directions at head of chapter71 using the milk1 salt1 and yeast4 ,when it is full of bubbles1 add the butter1 sugar1 and well-beaten eggs4 ,stir in enough flour to make a soft dough4 ,knead it for twenty minutes4 ,let it rise to double its bulk2 then mold it into balls the size of half an egg4 ,place them rather close together in a baking-tin1 and let them rise until very light4 ,when they are ready to go into the oven1 brush over the tops with sugar dissolved in milk1 and sprinkle the tops with dry sugar4 ,bake in a hot oven about half an hour4 ,rusks must be well kneaded and be very light before being baked4 ,a part of the dough set for bread may be made into rusks by adding to it an egg1 sugar1 and butter4 ,,dried ,,rusks ,cut rusks that are a day old into slices one half inch thick1 and dry them in a slow oven until a fine golden color4 ,,bath ,,buns #d cupfuls of flour4 #a cupful of milk4 #a_/b cupful of sugar4 #a_/d cupful of butter4 #a_/b teaspoonful of salt4 #a_/b nutmeg grated4 #a_/b compressed yeast-cake4 #c eggs4 ,mix the salt1 sugar1 and grated nutmeg with the flour4 ,scald the milk and melt the butter in it4 ,dissolve the yeast in a quarter cupful of lukewarm water4 ,when the scalded milk has become lukewarm1 add to it the dissolved yeast and the eggs1 which have been well beaten1 the yolks and whites separately2 then add the flour4 ,use more flour than given in the receipt1 if necessary1 but keep the dough as soft as possible4 ,knead it on a board for twenty minutes4 ,let it rise over night in a warm place1 well covered4 ,in the morning turn it on to the molding-board1 roll it and rub it lightly with butter1 then fold it several times1 cut it into pieces the size of a large egg1 and mold it into balls4 ,the folding is to make it peel off in layers when baked1 but may be omitted if desired4 ,press into the side of each bun1 after it is molded1 a piece of citron and lump of sugar wet with lemon-juice4 ,place the buns in a baking-tin and let them rise to more than double their size4 ,brush the tops with egg diluted with water to give a brown crust4 ,bake in a moderate oven for half an hour4 ,when baked1 brush over the tops with sugar dissolved in milk1 and return to the oven for a few minutes to glaze4 ,sprinkle a little powdered sugar over the tops as soon as they are removed from the oven4 ,,coffee ,,cake ,take two cupfuls of bread sponge1 add one egg well beaten1 a half cupful of sugar1 a tablespoonful of butter1 and a cupful of tepid water4 ,mix them well together1 then add enough flour to make a thin dough4 ,let it rise until double in size4 ,turn it on a board1 and roll it out an inch thick4 ,place it in a baking-tin1 cutting it to fit the tin1 and let it rise again until light4 ,just before placing it in the oven1 spread over the top an egg beaten with a teaspoonful of sugar4 ,sprinkle over this some granulated sugar1 and a few split blanched almonds4 ,if preferred1 the dough may be twisted and shaped into rings instead of being baked in sheets4 ,this cake1 which is a kind of bun1 is1 as well as bath buns1 a good luncheon dish to serve in place of cake2 or either of them1 served with a cup of chocolate1 makes a good light luncheon in itself4 ,,brioche ,brioche is a kind of light bun mixture much used in ,france4 ,it has many uses1 and is much esteemed4 ,it will not be found difficult or troublesome to make after the first trial4 ,the paste once made can be used for plain brioche cakes1 buns1 rings1 baba1 savarins1 fruit timbales 7see page #djf71 cabinet puddings1 etc4 #a cake of compressed yeast4 #a_/d cupful of lukewarm water4 #a quart of flour4 #g eggs4 #c_/d pound of butter4 #a_/b teaspoonful of salt4 #b teaspoonfuls of sugar4 ,dissolve the yeast-cake in a quarter of a cupful of lukewarm water4 ,stir it so it will be thoroughly mixed1 then add enough flour to make a very soft ball of paste4 ,drop this ball into a pan of warm water 7the water must not be hot1 or it will kill the yeast plant74 ,cover1 and set it in a warm place to rise1 which will take about an hour4 ,this is for leaven to raise the brioche4 ,the ball of paste will sink to the bottom of the water at first1 but will rise to the top later1 and be full of bubbles4 ,put the rest of the flour on a platter1 and make a well in the center of it4 ,into this well put the butter1 salt1 sugar1 and four eggs4 ,break the eggs in whole1 and have the butter rather soft4 ,work them together with the hand1 gradually incorporating the flour1 and adding two more eggs1 one at a time4 ,work and beat it with the hand until it loses its stickiness1 which will take some time4 ,when the leaven is sufficiently light1 lift it out of the water with a skimmer1 and place it with the dough4 ,work them together1 add one more egg1 the last of the seven1 and beat it for a long time1 using the hand4 ,the longer it is beaten the better and the finer will be the grain4 ,put the paste in a bowl1 cover1 and let it rise to double its size1 which will take four to five hours2 then beat it down again1 and place it on the ice for twelve or twenty-four hours4 ,as beating and raising the paste require so much time1 the work should be started the day before it is to be used4 ,after taking the paste from the ice1 it will still be quite soft1 and have to be handled delicately and quickly4 ,it softens more as it becomes warm4 ,,to ,,make ,a ,,brioche ,,roll ,,with ,,head ,take up carefully a little of the paste1 and turn it into a ball about three inches in diameter2 flatten it a little on top1 and with a knife open a little place on top1 and lay a small ball of paste into it4 ,let it rise to double its size1 and bake in a moderate oven for twenty to thirty minutes4 ,if a glazed top is wanted1 brush it over with egg yolk diluted one half with water1 before putting it in the oven4 ,serve hot or perfectly fresh4 ,,to ,,make ,a ,,brioche ,,crown ,,or ,,ring ,roll the paste into a ball1 roll it down to a thickness of half an inch1 keeping the form round4 ,cut it several times through the middle1 and twist the paste into a rope-like ring4 ,let it rise1 brush the top with egg1 and bake in a well-heated oven for about half an hour4 ,,to ,,make ,,buns ,roll the paste into small balls1 glaze the tops when ready to go into the oven1 and bake about twenty minutes4 ,,brioche ,,for ,,timbale1 ,,or ,,cabinet ,,puddings ,when the brioche is to be used for timbales1 or cabinet puddings1 turn the paste into a cylindrical mold1 filling it half full4 ,let it rise to the top of the mold1 and bake in a hot oven for about half an hour4 ,,pancakes ,the batter for pancakes should be smooth1 and thin enough to run freely when turned onto the griddle4 ,in order to have all the cakes of the same size an equal quantity of batter must be used for each cake4 ,it should be poured steadily at one point1 so the batter will flow evenly in all directions1 making the cake perfectly round4 ,an iron spoonful of batter makes a cake of good size2 but if a larger one is wanted1 use a ladle or cup2 for if the batter is put on the hot griddle by separate spoonfuls1 the first becomes a little hardened before the second is added1 and the cake will not be evenly baked1 or have so good an appearance4 ,lastly1 the baking is of great importance4 ,the cakes must be well browned on both sides1 the color even and uniform on every part4 ,to effect this the griddle must be perfectly clean and evenly heated4 ,a soap-stone griddle is the best1 as it holds the heat well1 and as it requires no greasing4 ,the cakes baked thus are by some considered more wholesome4 ,the griddle should stand on the range for some time before it is needed in order to get thoroughly and evenly heated4 ,where an iron griddle is used1 it should also be given time to become evenly heated1 and while the cakes are baking it should be moved so the edges may in turn come over the hottest part of the range4 ,it must be wiped off and greased after each set of cakes is baked4 ,a piece of salt pork on a fork is the best thing for greasing1 as it makes an even coating1 and too much grease is not likely to be used4 ,an iron griddle is often allowed by careless cooks to collect a crust of burned grease around the edges4 ,when in this condition1 the cakes will not1 of course1 be properly baked4 ,the griddle should be hot enough to hiss when the batter is turned onto it4 ,serve the cakes as soon as baked1 in a folded napkin on a hot plate4 ,two plates should be used1 so while one is being passed the next griddleful may be prepared to serve4 ,,plain ,,pancakes ,stir two cupfuls of milk into two beaten eggs2 add enough flour to make a thin batter4 ,add a half teaspoonful of salt and a heaping teaspoonful of baking-powder4 ,sour milk can be used1 in which case omit the baking-powder and add a half teaspoonful of soda4 ,the baking-powder or soda should not be put in until just before beginning to bake the cakes4 ,the cakes will be lighter and better if the eggs are beaten separately1 and the whipped whites added the last thing4 ,,flannel ,,cakes #a tablespoonful of butter4 #a tablespoonful of sugar4 #b eggs4 #b cupfuls of flour4 ,milk4 #a teaspoonful of baking-powder4 ,rub the butter and sugar to a cream1 add the beaten eggs1 then the flour1 in which the baking-powder has been sifted4 ,add enough milk to make a smooth1 thin batter4 ,,rice ,,pancakes ,make the same batter as for plain cakes1 using half boiled rice and half flour4 ,any of the cereals--hominy1 oatmeal1 cracked wheat1 etc4--can be used in the same way1 utilizing any small quantities left over2 a little butter is sometimes added4 ,,bread ,,pancakes ,soak stale bread in hot water until moistened2 press out the water4 ,to two cupfuls of softened bread1 add two beaten eggs1 a teaspoonful of salt1 a half cupful of flour1 and enough milk to make a thin1 smooth batter2 add1 the last thing1 a teaspoonful of baking-powder1 or use soda if sour milk has been used in the batter4 ,,cornmeal ,,pancakes ,pour a little boiling water on a cupful of cornmeal1 and let it stand half an hour4 ,add a teaspoonful of salt1 a tablespoonful of sugar1 one egg and two cupfuls of flour4 ,add enough milk to make a smooth batter1 and a teaspoonful of baking-powder just before baking4 ,instead of white flour rye meal may be used3 one cupful of rye to one of cornmeal1 a tablespoonful of molasses instead of the sugar1 and soda in place of baking-powder4 ,,buckwheat ,,cakes ,scald a cupful of yellow meal in a quart of boiling milk4 ,add a half teaspoonful of salt2 when cold add a quarter of a compressed yeast-cake1 and enough buckwheat flour to make a soft batter4 ,beat it well together4 ,let it rise over night4 ,in the morning stir in a tablespoonful of molasses and a teaspoonful of soda4 ,although the above method is the old and better way1 these cakes can be made in the morning1 and baking-powder used instead of yeast2 in which case divide the batter1 and add the baking-powder1 one half at a time4 ,,adirondack ,,pancakes ,bake several pancakes as large as a plate4 ,butter1 and cover them with maple syrup4 ,pile them one on another1 and cut like a pie4 ,,chapter ,,xvi ,,sandwiches ,,sandwiches ,,and ,,canapes ,sandwiches are usually the chief reliance for cold lunches1 and are always acceptable if well made and attractively served4 ,where they are to be kept some time1 as in traveling1 they should be wrapped in oiled or paraffin paper1 for this will keep them perfectly fresh4 ,sandwiches may be made of white1 ,graham1 or brown bread1 or of fresh rolls1 and may be filled with any kind of meat1 with fish1 with salads1 with eggs1 with jams1 or with chopped nuts4 ,sidenote3 ,shapes4 ,they may be cut into any shapes1 the square and triangular ones being the usual forms1 but a pleasant variety may be given by stamping them with a biscuit-cutter into circles1 or by rolling them1 and these forms are recommended for sandwiches made of jams or jellies1 as it gives them a more distinctive character4 ,sidenote3 ,how to prepare the meat4 ,the meat used in sandwiches should be chopped to a fine mince1 seasoned with salt and pepper1 mustard1 if desired1 and moistened with a little water1 stock1 cream or milk1 or with a salad dressing1 using enough to make the mince spread well4 ,fish can be pounded to a paste1 then seasoned4 ,potted meats can also be used4 ,slices of anything that has a fibrous texture make the sandwich difficult to eat1 and as knives and forks are not usually at hand when sandwiches are served1 it is desirable to make the primitive way of eating as little objectionable as possible4 ,sidenote3 ,butter4 ,the butter for sandwiches should be of the best1 and should be soft enough to spread easily without tearing the bread4 ,the butter may sometimes be worked into the meat paste4 ,what are called sandwich butters are frequently used4 ,they are made by rubbing the butter to a cream1 combined with anchovy paste1 with mustard1 with chopped parsley and tarragon1 with pate de foie gras1 etc4 ,these butters are used to spread the bread for meat sandwiches1 using with the butter any flavoring that will go well with the meat4 ,illustration3 ,,bread-,,and-,,butter ,,sandwiches4 ,made of ,white1 ,graham1 and ,boston ,brown ,bread4 7,see page #cfd47 ,sidenote3 ,rolls4 ,when rolls are used for sandwiches1 they should be very fresh1 should be small1 and have a tender crust4 ,the finger rolls are good for the purpose1 also ,parker ,house rolls1 when made in suitable shape4 ,graham bread makes excellent sandwiches4 ,sidenote3 ,how to prepare the bread4 ,bread for sandwiches should be of fine grain and a day old4 ,a five-cent loaf cuts to good advantage4 ,the crust should be cut off1 and the loaf trimmed to good shape before the slices are cut4 ,the crusts and trimmings can be dried for crumbs1 so they are not wasted1 and no butter is lost in spreading bread which will afterward be trimmed off4 ,when the bread is ready1 the butter should be spread on the loaf1 and then a slice cut off evenly one eighth of an inch thick4 ,the next slice will have to be cut off before being spread1 in order to have it fit exactly the preceding piece4 ,after the first slice is covered with the filling1 lay the second slice on it4 ,in many cases the second slice of bread does not need spreading with butter4 ,cut the sandwich to the desired shape4 ,one cut across the loaf will make two square1 or four triangular1 sandwiches4 ,sidenote3 ,meat sandwiches4 ,poultry1 game1 ham1 beef1 and tongue can be prepared as directed above1 or they may be mixed with a ,french or a ,mayonnaise dressing4 ,chicken pounded to a paste1 then well mixed with a paste made of the yolks of hard-boiled eggs mashed1 a little milk or cream1 and a little butter1 then seasoned with salt1 pepper1 and a few drops of onion-juice1 makes a delicious chicken sandwich4 ,sidenote3 ,fish sandwiches4 ,anchovies1 sardines1 or any fresh boiled fish may be used for sandwiches4 ,it is better pounded to a paste4 ,moisten sardines with a little lemon-juice4 ,fresh fish should be well seasoned with salt and pepper1 and moistened with a white or any other sauce1 or with ,mayonnaise4 ,a little chopped pickle may be added4 ,shad roe1 mashed with a fork to separate the eggs1 and seasoned in the same way1 makes excellent sandwiches4 ,,note4--,sandwiches of any kind which are left over are good toasted1 and can be served at luncheon4--,m4 ,r4 ,,egg ,,sandwiches ,no4 #a4 ,cut hard-boiled eggs into slices2 sprinkle with salt and pepper plentifully1 and spread the bread with butter mixed with chopped parsley4 ,no4 #b4 ,lay the sliced eggs between crisp lettuce leaves1 and spread the bread with butter1 then with ,mayonnaise4 ,no4 #c4 ,chop the hard-boiled eggs fine4 ,mix with ,mayonnaise and spread on the buttered bread1 or mix them with well-seasoned white sauce4 ,,salad ,,sandwiches ,no4 #a4 ,lay a crisp lettuce leaf sprinkled with salt between buttered thin slices of bread2 or spread the bread with ,mayonnaise1 then with lettuce or with water-cress4 ,no4 #b4 ,chop chicken and celery together fine2 mix it with ,french or with ,mayonnaise dressing4 ,no4 #c4 ,chop lobster meat2 mix it with any dressing2 cut lettuce into ribbons2 cover the bread with the lettuce2 then a layer of lobster2 then with lettuce again4 ,no4 #d4 ,mix chopped olives with ,mayonnaise2 serve with afternoon tea4 ,,spanish ,,sandwiches ,spread buttered ,graham bread with mustard2 then with a layer of cottage cheese2 and then with a layer of chopped olives mixed with ,mayonnaise4 ,,cheese ,,sandwiches ,no4 #a4 ,cut ,american cheese in slices one-eighth of an inch thick1 or about the same thickness as the bread4 ,sprinkle it with salt1 and have the bread well buttered4 ,no4 #b4 ,cut ,gruyere cheese in thin slices4 ,lay it on the bread1 sprinkle it with salt and pepper2 then add ,french mustard4 ,no4 #c4 ,grate any cheese4 ,rub it to a paste with butter1 and spread the bread2 dust with salt and pepper4 ,cut into strips and serve with salad4 ,no4 #d4 ,mock ,crab4 ,rub to a smooth paste one tablespoonful of butter1 two tablespoonfuls of grated cheese1 a saltspoonful each of salt1 paprica1 and dry mustard1 a little anchovy paste1 and a teaspoonful of vinegar4 ,spread between thin slices of dry toast4 ,,raw ,,beef ,,sandwiches ,scrape the raw beef2 spread it between thin slices of plain bread4 ,sprinkle with salt and pepper4 ,place the sandwiches on a toaster1 and hold them over the coals until well heated4 ,serve them hot4 ,,sweet ,,sandwiches ,no4 #a4 ,for ,a,esthetic ,sandwiches1 see chapter ,five ,o'clock ,tea1 page #cc4 ,no4 #b4 ,spread thin slices of bread with any jam1 or with fruit jelly1 or with any preserved fruit1 or with chopped canned fruit4 ,cut them into circles1 or roll them as directed above4 ,no4 #c4 ,spread very thin buttered slices of ,boston brown bread with chopped walnuts1 or with chopped almonds1 or with both mixed1 or with salted nuts chopped4 ,,canapes ,canapes are slices of bread toasted or fried in hot fat1 or dipped in butter1 and browned in the oven4 ,the slices are then covered with some seasoned mixture4 ,they are served hot1 and make a good first course for luncheon4 ,the bread is cut a quarter of an inch thick1 then into circles two and a half inches in diameter1 or into strips four inches long and two inches wide4 ,they are sometimes used cold1 and are arranged fancifully with different-colored meats1 pickles1 eggs1 etc4 ,,cheese ,,canapes ,cut bread into slices one quarter inch thick1 four inches long and two inches wide4 ,spread it with butter1 and sprinkle it with salt and cayenne or paprica4 ,cover the top with grated ,american cheese1 or with grated ,parmesan cheese1 and bake in the oven until the cheese is softened4 ,serve at once1 before the cheese hardens4 ,,ham ,,canapes ,cut bread into slices a quarter inch thick1 then with a small biscuit-cutter into circles2 fry them in hot fat1 or saute them in butter4 ,pound some chopped ham to a paste2 moisten it with cream or milk4 ,spread it on the fried bread2 dust with cayenne1 sprinkle the top with grated ,parmesan cheese1 and place in a hot oven until a little browned4 ,,anchovy ,,canapes ,spread strips of fried bread with anchovy paste4 ,arrange in lines1 on top1 alternate rows of the white and yolks of hard-boiled eggs chopped fine4 ,,sardine ,,canapes ,spread circles of fried bread with a layer of sardines pounded to a paste4 ,arrange on top1 in circles to resemble a rosette1 lines of chopped hard-boiled egg and chopped pickle4 ,,canape ,,lorenzo #b tablespoonfuls of butter4 #b tablespoonfuls of flour4 #a slice of onion4 #a cupful of stock4 #a cupful of crab meat4 #a tablespoonful of milk4 #b-a_/b tablespoonfuls of grated ,parmesan cheese4 #b-a_/b tablespoonfuls of ,swiss cheese4 ,salt1 pepper1 and cayenne4 ,put in a saucepan one tablespoonful of butter1 and fry in it one slice of onion chopped fine1 but do not brown2 then add one tablespoonful of flour and cook1 but do not brown2 add the stock slowly1 and when smooth add the cooked crab meat4 ,season highly with salt1 pepper1 and cayenne1 and let simmer for six or eight minutes4 ,put into another saucepan one tablespoonful of butter2 when melted1 add one tablespoonful of flour and cook1 but not brown2 then add the milk and stir in the cheese1 and let cook just long enough to soften the cheese4 ,remove from the fire and let cool2 then form the cheese mixture into six balls4 ,have ready six slices or circles of buttered toast1 or bread fried in butter1 and cover them with a layer of the crab mixture1 and in the center of each piece place a ball of the cheese4 ,place in a hot oven for five minutes4 ,this is a good supper dish1 and may be made of lobster1 fish1 or chicken4 ,serve with water-cress4 ,,cheese ,,and ,,cheese ,,dishes ,sidenote3 ,varieties4 ,sidenote3 ,serving4 ,among the best cheeses are ,stilton1 ,cheshire1 ,camembert1 ,gorgonzola1 ,rocquefort1 ,edam1 ,gruyere1 and ,parmesan4 ,the ,parmesan is a high-flavored1 hard ,italian cheese1 and is mostly used grated for cooking4 ,our ,american dairy cheeses are much esteemed1 and are largely exported to foreign markets2 but as they have no distinctive names1 it is difficult to find a second time any one that is particularly liked4 ,the ,pineapple cheese is the only one that differs radically from the other so-called ,american cheeses4 ,the foreign cheeses are1 nearly all of them1 very successfully imitated here4 ,cheese is served with crackers1 wafer biscuits1 or with celery after the dessert1 or with salad before the hot dessert4 ,any of the cheese dishes1 such as souffle1 ramekins1 omelets1 etc41 are served before the dessert4 ,cheese straws are used with salad4 ,cheeses small enough to be passed whole1 like ,edam1 ,pineapple1 etc41 have the top cut off1 plain or in notches1 and are wrapped in a neatly plaited napkin4 ,the top is replaced after the service1 so as to keep the cheese moist4 ,a ,stilton or ,chester cheese is cut in two1 and one half1 wrapped in a napkin1 served at a time4 ,rocquefort and ,gorgonzola are served in the large slice cut from the cheese and laid on a folded napkin4 ,american dairy cheese is cut into small uniform pieces4 ,the soft cheeses1 ,brie1 ,neuchatel1 etc41 are divested of the tinfoil and scraped before being passed4 ,they are placed on a lace paper4 ,fresh butter1 wafer biscuits1 and celery are passed with cheese4 ,,cheese ,,souffle #b tablespoonfuls of butter4 #a heaping tablespoonful of flour4 #a_/b cupful of milk4 #a_/b teaspoonful of salt4 ,dash of cayenne4 #c eggs4 #a cupful of grated cheese4 ,put into a saucepan the butter2 when it is melted stir in the flour and let it cook a minute 7but not color71 stirring all the time2 add one half cupful of milk slowly and stir till smooth1 then add salt and cayenne4 ,remove from the fire and add1 stirring constantly1 the beaten yolks of three eggs and the cupful of grated ,american or ,parmesan cheese4 ,replace it on the fire1 and stir until the cheese is melted and the paste smooth and consistent 7do not cook too long1 or the butter will separate74 ,pour the mixture on a buttered dish and set away to cool4 ,when ready to use1 stir into it lightly the well-beaten whites of the three eggs2 turn it into a pudding-dish and bake in a hot oven for twenty to thirty minutes4 ,do not open the oven door for ten minutes2 do not slam the oven door2 do not move the souffle until after fifteen minutes2 serve it at once when done4 ,like any souffle1 it must go directly from the oven to the table1 or it will fall4 ,,crackers ,,and ,,cheese ,split in two some ,bent's water biscuits2 moisten them with hot water and pour over each piece a little melted butter and ,french mustard2 then spread with a thick layer of grated cheese2 sprinkle with paprica or cayenne4 ,place them in a hot oven until the cheese is soft and creamy4 ,,cheese ,,canapes ,cut bread into slices one half inch thick2 stamp them with a biscuit cutter into circles2 then1 moving the cutter to one side1 cut them into crescent form2 or1 if preferred1 cut the bread into strips three inches long and one and one half inches wide2 saute them in a little butter on both sides to an amber color4 ,cover them with a thick layer of grated cheese2 sprinkle with salt1 pepper1 and dash of cayenne4 ,fifteen minutes before the time to serve1 place them in the oven to soften the cheese4 ,serve at once very hot2 or1 cut some toasted bread into small triangles2 spread with a little ,french mustard2 dip in melted butter2 then roll in grated cheese2 sprinkle with salt1 pepper1 and dash of cayenne1 and place in a hot oven for a few minutes to soften the cheese4 ,serve at once on a hot dish4 ,,welsh ,,rabbit #a pound of cheese4 #a_/b cupful of ale or beer4 ,dash of cayenne4 #a_/b teaspoonful of dry mustard4 #a_/b teaspoonful of salt4 ,slices of toast4 ,grate or cut into small pieces fresh ,american cheese4 ,place it in a saucepan or chafing-dish with three quarters of the ale4 ,stir until it is entirely melted2 then season with the mustard1 salt1 and pepper1 and pour it over the slices of hot toast1 cut in triangles or circles4 ,everything must be very hot1 and it must be served at once1 as the cheese quickly hardens4 ,some use a scant teaspoonful of butter 7more will not unite71 a few drops of onion-juice1 and the beaten yolks of two eggs1 added just before serving4 ,the egg makes it a little richer and prevents the cheese hardening so quickly4 ,milk may be used instead of ale to melt the cheese1 in which case the egg should also be used4 ,if any of the cheese fondu is left1 it can be heated again with the rest of the ale for the second helping4 ,,golden ,,buck ,make ,welsh rarebits as directed above1 and place on each one a poached egg 7see page #bfc74 ,,cheese ,,straws ,mix with one cupful of flour one half cupful of grated ,parmesan cheese1 a dash of cayenne1 one half teaspoonful of salt1 and the yolk of one egg2 then add enough water to make a paste sufficiently consistent to roll4 ,place it on a board and roll to one quarter inch thickness4 ,cut it into narrow strips and roll so each piece will be the size and length of a lead pencil4 ,place them in a baking-tin and press each end on the pan so they will not contract4 ,bake to a light brown in a moderate oven4 ,serve with salad4 ,these straws will keep for several days1 and should be heated just before serving4 ,,cheese ,,straws ,no4 #b ,take bits of puff paste2 roll them to one half inch thickness2 cut them into strips one inch wide and three inches long2 sprinkle them with grated cheese and bake2 or1 the pastry may be rolled to one quarter inch thickness2 then spread with cheese1 doubled over1 and then cut into strips1 leaving the cheese between two layers of paste4 ,,cheese ,,patties ,make some small round croustades as directed 7page #hb74 ,dip them in butter and toast them in the oven to a delicate color4 ,fill the centers with a mixture of two ounces of grated cheese1 one half tablespoonful of butter1 one tablespoonful of milk1 a little salt and pepper4 ,place the croustades again in the oven to melt the cheese4 ,serve very hot4 ,,cottage ,,cheese ,place a panful of milk which has soured enough to become thick1 or clabbered1 over a pan of hot water4 ,let it heat slowly until the whey has separated from the curd2 do not let it boil1 or the curd will become tough2 then strain it through a cloth and press out all the whey2 stir into the curd enough butter1 cream1 and salt to make it a little moist and of good flavor4 ,work it well with a spoon until it becomes fine grained and consistent1 then mold it into balls of any size desired4 ,,fondue ,see page #cce4 ,,chapter ,,xvii ,,salads ,sidenote3 ,drying the salad4 ,nearly all the meats1 vegetables1 and fruits may be served as salads4 ,the essential thing is to have the salad fresh and cold2 and if green1 to have the leaves crisp and dry4 ,if any water is left on leaves1 the dressing will not adhere to them1 but will run to the bottom of the dish1 and both the salad and the dressing will be poor4 ,all greens should be carefully washed in cold water to free them from dust and insects1 and to make them crisp4 ,after they have stood fifteen to twenty minutes in cold or ice water1 free them from moisture by swinging them in a wire basket1 or dry1 without bruising1 each leaf carefully with a napkin4 ,the dressing is added only at the moment of serving1 as the salad wilts if allowed to stand after the dressing is added4 ,the green salads are the most simple of any1 and are especially worthy the little care required to make them perfect4 ,sidenote3 ,cutting the meat4 ,meat of any kind used for salads should be cut into dice1 but not smaller than one half inch1 or it will seem like hash4 ,it should be marinated before being mixed with the other parts of the salad4 ,meat mixtures are usually piled in cone-shape on a dish1 the ,mayonnaise then spread over it1 and garnished with lettuce1 capers1 hard-boiled eggs1 gherkins1 etc4 ,sidenote3 ,marinating4 ,,to ,,marinate4--,take one part of oil and three of vinegar1 with pepper and salt to taste2 stir them into the meat1 and let it stand a couple of hours2 drain off any of the marinade which has not been absorbed1 before combining the meat with the other parts of the salad4 ,use only enough marinade to season the meat4 ,french dressing is used with green vegetable salads1 and either ,mayonnaise or ,french dressing with potato and tomato salads4 ,sidenote3 ,fish salads4 ,lettuce1 water-cress1 fetticus1 sorrel1 or other leaf salads are better with ,french dressing4 ,a boiled fish can be served whole as a salad for suppers or luncheons1 or in hot weather as a fish course for dinner4 ,it may be covered1 all but the head and tail1 with a thick coating of green or red jelly ,mayonnaise 7see page #bij71 and elaborately decorated with capers1 olives1 gherkins1 hard-boiled eggs1 and lettuce4 ,salmon1 blue fish1 bass1 or any firm fish1 serves this purpose4 ,fish may also be cut into cutlets of equal size and shape1 and covered with jelly ,mayonnaise garnished in the same way4 ,nasturtium blossoms make a good garnish1 and also add a good flavor to green salads4 ,,mayonnaise ,the receipts for ,mayonnaise are given on pages #bhh-bij4 ,white ,mayonnaise1 instead of that having the color of the eggs1 is the fancy of to-day4 ,the yolks will whiten by being stirred before the oil is added1 and lemon-juice1 used instead of vinegar1 also serves to whiten the dressing2 so it is not always necessary to add whipped cream1 although the cream gives a very delicate and delicious ,mayonnaise4 ,the jelly ,mayonnaise is used for molded salads1 and will be found very good1 as well as useful1 for the class of salads served at suppers1 etc4 ,,french ,,dressing ,this dressing is the most simple1 and the best one to use with green salads for dinner4 ,the proportions are one tablespoonful of vinegar to three of oil1 one half teaspoonful of salt1 and one quarter teaspoonful of pepper4 ,mix the salt and pepper with the oil2 then stir in slowly the vinegar1 and it will become white and a little thickened1 like an emulsion4 ,some like a dash of paprica or red pepper4 ,when intended for lettuce salad it is much improved by using a little tarragon vinegar with the wine vinegar4 ,more oil may be used if preferred1 but the mixture should be so blended as to taste of neither the oil nor the vinegar4 ,,lettuce ,,salad ,use only the tender leaves4 ,let them stand half an hour in cold water to become crisp4 ,rub the inside of the salad bowl lightly with an onion4 ,wipe the lettuce leaves perfectly dry without bruising them1 and arrange them in the bowl in circles1 the heart leaves in the center4 ,sprinkle over them a teaspoonful of mixed tarragon1 parsley1 and chives1 chopped fine2 pour over the ,french dressing1 and toss them lightly together4 ,french lettuce salads always have chopped herbs mixed with them1 and they are a great improvement to the salad4 ,if all of them are not at hand1 any one of them may be used alone4 ,the salad should be put together only just before being served1 or its crispness will be lost4 ,nasturtium blossoms1 small radishes cut into flowers1 or a few white chicory leaves may be used with plain lettuce salad4 ,,water-,,cress ,,and ,,apples ,prepare the water-cress the same as lettuce1 letting it become crisp in cold water1 then drying it thoroughly4 ,mix it with ,french dressing4 ,a few thin slices of sour apple with water-cress makes a good salad to serve with ducks4 ,a chopped hard-boiled egg sprinkled over the top of water-cress is a good garnish1 and improves the salad4 ,illustration3 ,,salad ,,of ,,water-,,cress ,,garnished ,,with ,,radishes ,,cut ,,to ,,resemble ,,roses4 ,,celery ,,salad ,wash and scrape the tender stalks of celery1 cut them into one quarter inch pieces1 or into straws two inches long1 or cut them in pieces one and a half inches long1 and slice them in small strips nearly to the end2 place them in ice-water for a few minutes to curl them4 ,mix the celery with either ,french or ,mayonnaise dressing1 and garnish with lettuce leaves or celery tops4 ,,cucumber ,,and ,,tomato ,,salad ,slice cucumbers and tomatoes into pieces of equal thickness1 and lay them alternately around a bunch of white lettuce leaves4 ,pass separately either a ,french or ,mayonnaise dressing1 or both4 ,,cucumber ,,salad ,,to ,,serve ,,with ,,fish ,peel the cucumbers1 and place them in cold water to become crisp4 ,do not use salt in the water1 as is sometimes recommended1 as it wilts and makes them indigestible4 ,cut the cucumbers in two lengthwise1 and lay them1 with the flat side down1 on the dish on which they are to be served4 ,slice them without destroying their shape1 and pour on them a ,french dressing4 ,illustration3 ,,cucumbers ,,cut ,,in ,,halves ,,lengthwise ,,and ,,then ,,sliced ,,to ,,serve ,,with ,,fish4 ,,string-,,bean ,,salad ,cut each bean in four strips lengthwise2 lay them evenly together and boil in salted water until tender4 ,remove them carefully and drain4 ,when they are cold and ready to serve1 pile them on a flat dish1 trim the ends even1 and pour over them slowly a ,french dressing4 ,garnish with parsley1 white chicory leaves or nasturtium leaves4 ,illustration3 ,,string-,,bean ,,salad4 ,,bean ,,salads ,boiled navy beans1 flageolets1 or ,lima beans may be mixed with ,french or ,mayonnaise dressing1 and garnished with hard-boiled eggs and parsley4 ,,cauliflower ,,salad ,break the vegetable into flowerets2 season with salt1 pepper1 and a little vinegar and oil4 ,pile them in a pyramid on a dish1 and pour over them a white ,mayonnaise4 ,arrange around the base a border of carrots or beets1 cut into dice or fancy shapes1 to give a line of color4 ,place a floweret of cauliflower on the top of the pyramid4 ,,macedoine ,,salad ,this salad is composed of a mixture of vegetables4 ,the vegetables are boiled separately2 the large ones are then cut into dice of equal size4 ,the salad is more attractive when the vegetables are cut with fancy cutters or with a small potato-scoop4 ,peas1 flageolets1 string beans1 flowerets of cauliflower1 beets1 celery roots1 asparagus points1 carrots1 and turnips--all1 or as many as convenient1 may be used4 ,mix them lightly with ,french dressing or with ,mayonnaise4 ,if the latter1 marinate them first4 ,be careful not to break the vegetables when mixing them4 ,arrange lettuce leaves like a cup1 and place the macedoine in the center4 ,,potato ,,salad ,boil the potatoes with the skins on2 when cold remove the skins and cut them into slices three eighths inch thick1 or into dice three quarters inch thick1 or cut the potatoes into balls with a scoop2 sprinkle them with a little grated onion and parsley1 chopped very fine4 ,turn over them a ,french dressing4 ,they will absorb a great deal4 ,toss them lightly together1 but do not break the potatoes1 which are very tender4 ,a ,mayonnaise dressing is also very good with marinated potatoes4 ,a mixture of beets and potatoes with ,mayonnaise is also used4 ,garnish with lettuce1 chopped yolk of hard-boiled egg and capers4 ,in boiling potatoes for salad1 do not steam them after they are boiled1 as they should not be mealy4 ,new or ,german potatoes are best for salad4 ,,cold ,,slaw ,shred a firm cabbage very fine4 ,mix it with a ,french dressing1 using an extra quantity of salt1 or put into a bowl the yolks of three eggs1 one half cupful of vinegar 7if it is very strong dilute it with water71 one tablespoonful of butter1 one half teaspoonful each of mustard and pepper1 and one teaspoonful each of sugar and salt4 ,beat them together1 place the bowl in a pan of boiling water1 and stir until it becomes a little thickened4 ,pour this while hot over the cabbage1 and set it away to cool4 ,,hot ,,slaw ,place shredded cabbage in a saucepan with enough salted boiling water to cover it4 ,boil it until tender1 but not so long as to lose shape2 turn it onto a sieve and drain it well in a warm place4 ,pour over the drained cabbage a hot ,bearnaise sauce4 ,cabbage salads are good to serve with fried oysters1 meat fritters1 or chops4 ,the boiled cabbage1 cold1 may be used with ,french dressing4 ,,tomato ,,salads ,to remove the skins from tomatoes1 place them in a wire-basket1 and plunge them into boiling water for a minute4 ,this is better than letting them soak in the water1 which softens them if left too long4 ,no4 #a4 ,select tomatoes of the same size and shape2 peel1 and place them on ice until ready to use2 then cut each one in two and place on each piece a teaspoonful of ,mayonnaise4 ,dress them on a bed of lettuce leaves2 or1 slice the tomatoes without breaking their form1 place each one on a leaf of lettuce1 cover the tomato with ,mayonnaise1 and sprinkle over a little parsley chopped fine2 or scoop out a little of the center from the stem end and fill it with dressing4 ,an attractive salad is made of the small yellow tomatoes which resemble plums4 ,remove the skin carefully2 let them get thoroughly cold2 then pile them on a dish the same as fruit1 garnish with leaves of lettuce1 and pour over them a ,french dressing4 ,no4 #b4 ,,stuffed ,,tomatoes ,select round tomatoes of equal size2 peel and scoop from the stem end a part of the center4 ,place them on ice until ready to serve2 then fill them with celery cut fine and mixed with ,mayonnaise4 ,let it rise above the top of the tomato4 ,put a little ,mayonnaise on small lettuce leaves1 and place a stuffed tomato on the dressing in the center of each leaf4 ,arrange them in a circle on a flat dish4 ,tomatoes may be stuffed in the same way with chopped veal1 celery and veal or chicken1 celery and sweetbreads1 or chopped hard-boiled eggs and shredded lettuce4 ,illustration3 ,,tomatoes ,,stuffed ,,with ,,celery ,,and ,,mayonnaise ,,standing ,,on ,,lettuce ,,leaves4 ,no4 #c4 ,,tomatoes ,,and ,,eggs ,prepare the tomatoes as above2 partly fill them with ,mayonnaise1 and press into each one the half of a hard-boiled egg1 letting the rounded top rise a little above the tomato4 ,serve on lettuce as above4 ,no4 #d4 ,,molded ,,tomatoes ,select small round tomatoes4 ,stuff them in any way directed above1 but do not let the filling project beyond the opening4 ,place individual molds on ice4 ,small cups will do2 pour in one eighth of an inch of clear aspic or chicken aspic 7see page #cbc72 when it has set1 place in each one a tomato1 the whole side down2 add enough jelly to fix the tomato without floating it4 ,when that has set1 add enough more to entirely cover it 7see ,fancy ,molding1 page #cbc74 ,turn each molded tomato onto the plate on which it is to be served1 and arrange around it a wreath of shredded lettuce4 ,pass ,mayonnaise dressing separately4 ,no4 #e4 ,,tomato ,,jelly #a_/b can or #b cupfuls of tomatoes4 #c cloves4 #a bay-leaf4 #a slice of onion4 #a_/b teaspoonful of thyme4 #a teaspoonful of salt4 #a teaspoonful of sugar4 #a_/d teaspoonful of pepper4 #a_/d box or #a_/b ounce of ,cooper's gelatine1 soaked in #a_/b cupful of water4 ,boil together the tomatoes1 spices1 and onion until the tomato is soft2 then add the soaked gelatine1 and stir until the gelatine is dissolved2 then strain and pour it into a border or ring-shaped mold to set4 ,serve with the center of the jelly-ring filled with celery cut into pieces1 into straws1 or curled1 and mixed with ,mayonnaise4 ,form outside the ring a wreath of shredded lettuce4 ,this jelly may also be molded in a solid piece and surrounded by the celery4 7,see illustration opposite page #chd47 ,illustration3 ,,tomato ,,jelly ,,molded ,,in ,,ring1 ,,the ,,center ,,filled ,,with ,,curled ,,celery ,,and ,,mayonnaise--,,lettuce ,,cut ,,into ,,ribbons ,,around ,,the ,,outside4 7,,see ,,page #cha47 ,,celery ,,and ,,walnut ,,salad ,mix with the celery1 cut into small pieces1 one third the quantity of ,english walnut meats broken in two1 and enough ,mayonnaise to well moisten it4 ,garnish with lettuce4 ,,sweetbreads ,,with ,,celery ,cut cold cooked sweetbreads into dice and mix with an equal quantity of celery4 ,cover with ,mayonnaise and garnish with lettuce4 ,,egg ,,salad ,no4 #a ,cut hard-boiled eggs 7see page #bfb7 into thick slices or into quarters4 ,use a sharp knife so the cuts will be clean4 ,arrange each portion on a leaf of lettuce partly covered with ,mayonnaise1 and arrange the lettuce in a circle on a flat dish1 the stem of the leaf toward the center of the dish4 ,place a bunch of nasturtium flowers or a bunch of white chicory leaves in the middle4 7,see illustration47 ,illustration3 ,,salad ,,of ,,sliced ,,hard-,,boiled ,,eggs ,,arranged ,,on ,,lettuce ,,leaves1 ,,the ,,stalk ,,ends ,,of ,,the ,,leaves ,,meeting ,,in ,,the ,,center ,,of ,,the ,,dish4 ,no4 #b ,cut hard-boiled eggs in two1 making the cut one third from the pointed end4 ,remove the yolks without breaking the whites2 mash them and mix with chicken1 chopped fine1 and enough ,mayonnaise to bind them4 ,fill the large half of the egg with the mixture1 rounding it on top like a whole yolk4 ,invert the small pieces of white4 ,cut the pointed ends of both pieces flat1 and stick them together with raw white of egg4 ,place the vase-shaped eggs on a flat dish1 and fill the spaces with shredded lettuce4 ,pass ,mayonnaise1 as that put in the yolks will not be sufficient4 7,see illustration47 ,illustration3 ,,salad ,,of ,,stuffed ,,eggs ,,garnished ,,with ,,lettuce ,,cut ,,into ,,ribbons4 7,,see ,,page #cha47 ,,orange ,,salad ,use for this salad sour oranges2 if these cannot be obtained1 strain over sweet oranges after they are sliced a little lemon-juice4 ,cut the oranges in thick slices1 remove the seeds carefully1 arrange them in rows1 and turn over them a dressing made of one tablespoonful of lemon-juice to three of oil1 with salt1 and cayenne1 or paprica to taste4 ,serve with game4 ,grape fruit may be used the same way1 and walnut meats used with either4 ,,chicken ,,salad ,cut cold cooked chicken into dice one half inch square1 or into pieces of any shape1 but not too small4 ,use only the white meat1 if very particular as to appearance1 but the dark meat is also good4 ,veal is sometimes substituted for chicken4 ,wash and scrape the tender stalks of celery4 ,cut them into small pieces1 and dry them well4 ,use two thirds as much celery as chicken4 ,marinate the chicken as directed at the head of chapter4 ,keep it in a cold place until ready to serve2 then mix with it the celery1 and add lightly a little ,mayonnaise4 ,place the mixture in a bowl1 smooth the top1 leaving it high in the center2 cover it with ,mayonnaise4 ,garnish with hard-boiled eggs1 the whites and yolks chopped separately2 also with sliced pickle1 stoned olives1 capers1 lettuce-leaves1 celery-tops1 etc4 ,arrange any or all of these in as fanciful design as desired4 ,shredded lettuce may be used instead of celery if more convenient4 ,,lobster ,,salad ,cut the boiled lobster into one inch pieces or larger4 ,marinate it1 and keep in a cool place until ready to serve2 then mix with it lightly a little ,mayonnaise4 ,place it in the salad bowl2 smooth the top1 leaving it high in the center4 ,mask it with a thick covering of ,mayonnaise4 ,sprinkle over it the powdered coral of the lobster4 ,place on top the heart of a head of lettuce1 and around the salad a thick border of crisp lettuce-leaves1 carefully selected4 ,shad roe1 canned salmon1 or any firm white fish mixed with ,mayonnaise1 and garnished with lettuce1 may be served as a salad4 ,,oyster ,,salad ,scald the oysters in their own liquor until plump and frilled4 ,drain1 and let them get very cold and dry4 ,if large oysters1 cut each one with a silver knife into four pieces4 ,just before serving mix them with ,mayonnaise or ,tartare sauce1 and serve each portion on a leaf of lettuce4 ,celery may be mixed with oysters1 and served the same way4 ,,bouilli ,,salad ,cut beef that has been boiled for soup into half-inch dice4 ,marinate it1 using a little grated onion with the marinade4 ,mix it lightly with some cold boiled potatoes cut into half-inch dice1 and some parsley chopped fine4 ,pour over it a ,french dressing1 or ,mayonnaise4 ,garnish with hard-boiled eggs and lettuce4 ,,russian ,,salad ,fill the outside of a double mold with clear aspic jelly 7see page #cba71 and the center with a macedoine of vegetables1 or with celery1 or with any one vegetable4 ,marinate the vegetables2 then mix them with ,mayonnaise made with jelly instead of eggs 7see page #bij74 ,cover the top with jelly so the vegetables will be completely enclosed 7see directions for double molding1 page #cbe74 ,turn the form of salad on a flat dish1 and garnish with shredded lettuce4 ,illustration3 ,,russian ,,macedoine ,,salads ,,with ,,aspic4 ,,pink ,,and ,,white ,,outside1 ,,center ,,filled ,,with ,,celery1 ,,peas ,,and ,,beans1 ,,mixed ,,with ,,chicken ,,aspic4 #a4 ,turnip4 #b4 ,beet4 #c4 ,truffle4 #d4 ,red beets4 #e4 ,slices of hard-boiled egg4 #f4 ,olives4 #g4 ,turnip4 #h4 ,beet4 #i4 ,turnip4 ,,individual ,,russian ,,salads ,ornament the bottom of small timbale-molds with carrot cut into fancy shape in the center1 and a row of green peas around the edge4 ,add enough clear aspic or chicken jelly to fix them1 then fill the mold with jelly2 when it has hardened1 scoop out carefully with a hot spoon some of the jelly from the center1 and fill the space at once with a macedoine of vegetables mixed with jelly ,mayonnaise as above4 ,serve each form on a leaf of lettuce4 ,pass ,mayonnaise separately4 ,,note4--,molds of salad in aspic may be elaborately decorated with rows of different-colored vegetables1 or they may be arranged in layers like the aspic of pate4 ,individual salads1 when served for suppers1 buffet lunches1 etc41 may be placed around graduated socles in a pyramid4 ,decorations of capers and parsley1 also of truffles and tongue1 are suitable for ,russian salads4 ,illustration3 ,,individual ,,salads4 #a4 ,pate de foie gras and aspic jelly in layers4 ,daisy decoration made of hard-boiled egg4 #b4 ,russian ,salad decorated with green peas or capers4 ,,aspic ,,of ,,pate ,,en ,,bellevue ,ornament the bottom of individual timbale molds with a daisy design made of hard-boiled egg as directed1 page #cbf2 fix it with a little jelly2 then add a layer of jelly one quarter inch thick1 and a layer of pate de foie gras alternately until the mold is full4 ,any forcemeat may be used in the same way4 ,turn the molds onto a flat dish and surround them with shredded lettuce1 or place them on an ornamented socle4 ,pass ,mayonnaise4 7,see illustration facing page #cbh47 ,illustration3 ,,pate ,,de ,,foie ,,gras ,,en ,,bellevue4 ,,slices ,,of ,,pate ,,alternating ,,with ,,aspic--,,molded ,,in ,,individual ,,timbale ,,molds4 ,,forms ,,standing ,,on ,,rice ,,socle ,,decorated ,,with ,,tongue ,,and ,,pickle--,,garnished ,,with ,,bunch ,,of ,,red ,,carnations4 ,,chicken ,,aspic ,,with ,,walnuts ,make a clear chicken consomme 7see page #ajj74 ,to one and one half cupfuls of the consomme add one half box of ,cox's gelatine soaked for one half hour in one half cupful of cold water4 ,ornament the bottom of a quart ,charlotte mold with a daisy design with leaf1 as given page #cbf4 ,add a layer of jelly one quarter inch thick1 and then fill the outside of double mold with jelly4 7,see double molding1 page #cbe47 ,fill the center with one and a half cupfuls of celery cut rather fine1 and one half cupful of ,english walnuts1 broken to same size as the celery4 ,mix them with a dressing made of #c tablespoonfuls of melted chicken jelly4 #b tablespoonfuls of oil4 #a teaspoonful of salt4 #a teaspoonful of vinegar4 #a_/b teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar4 #a_/d teaspoonful of pepper4 ,cover the top with jelly1 so as to completely enclose the celery mixture4 ,turn it onto a flat dish1 and place around it a wreath of shredded lettuce4 ,this is a very delicious salad1 and well repays the trouble of preparation4 ,,bird',s-,,nest ,,salad ,rub a little green coloring paste into cream cheese1 giving it a delicate color like birds' eggs4 ,roll it into balls the size of birds' eggs1 using the back or smooth side of butter-pats4 ,arrange on a flat dish some small well-crimped lettuce leaves2 group them to look like nests1 moisten them with ,french dressing1 and place five of the cheese balls in each nest of leaves4 ,the cheese balls may be varied by flecking them with black1 white1 or red pepper4 ,the nests may be made of shredded lettuce if preferred4 ,,chapter ,,xviii ,,cold ,,desserts ,,utensils ,illustration ,no4 #a1 ,egg-beaters4--,no4 #a1 ,dover beater2 ,nos4 #b and #c1 ,wire ,whips2 ,no4 #d1 ,daisy beater4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #a4 ,,egg ,,whips4 #a4 ,dover ,beater4 #b4 ,wire ,spoon4 #c4 ,wire ,whip4 #d4 ,daisy ,beater4 ,illustration ,no4 #b1 ,jelly ,molds4--,no4 #a1 ,two ,charlotte ,russe molds to use for double molding2 ,no4 #b1 cylindrical mold for ,charlottes1 ,bavarians1 cornstarch1 etc42 ,nos4 #c and #d1 ring molds4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #b4 ,,jelly ,,molds4 #a4 ,two ,charlotte ,molds for double molding4 #b4 ,cylindrical ,mold4 #c1 #d4 ,ring ,molds4 ,illustration ,no4 #c4--,no4 #a1 jelly mold packed in ice ready to be filled2 ,no4 #b1 smaller mold to fit inside for double molding4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #c4 ,,jelly ,,molds4 #a4 ,mold packed in ice for fancy molding4 #b4 ,smaller ,mold of same shape to fit into ,no4 #a for double molding4 7,see page #cbe47 ,illustration ,no4 #d4--,pastry bag and tubes4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #d4 ,,pastry ,,bag ,,and ,,tubes4 ,illustration ,no4 #e4--,paper for filtering fruit juices4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #e4 ,,paper ,,for ,,filtering ,,fruit ,,juices4 ,illustration ,no4 #f4--,no4 #a1 lace papers to use under cake1 puddings1 jellies1 individual creams1 bonbons1 etc42 also for timbales2 ,no4 #b1 paper boxes and china cups to use for individual souffles1 biscuits1 glace oranges and grapes1 creamed strawberries1 and cherries2 also for creamed chicken1 and fish1 salpicon1 etc4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #f4 ,,lace ,,papers1 ,,paper ,,boxes1 ,,and ,,china ,,box4 ,the china cups are useful for the latter purposes4 ,the rectangular paper boxes are easily made4 ,for boxes #c-a_/d x #a-c_/d inches1 cut heavy unruled writing paper into pieces #e-c_/d x #g-a_/d inches2 fold down an edge two inches wide all around2 fold it back again on itself1 giving a border one inch broad4 ,cut the corners at the black line1 as shown in diagram1 and fold the box together4 ,the ends will fit under the folds1 and hold the box in shape4 ,a little more stability may be given the box by taking a stitch at each corner1 and letting the thread run around the top of the box under the flap4 ,illustration ,,weights ,,and ,,measures #d gills #a pint4 #b pints #a quart4 #d quarts #a gallon4 #af ounces #a pound4 #a_/b kitchen cupful #a gill4 #a kitchen cupful #a_/b pint or #b gills4 #d kitchen cupfuls #a quart4 #b cupfuls of granulated sugar #a pound4 #b-a_/b cupfuls of powdered sugar #a heaping tablespoonful of sugar #a ounce4 #a heaping tablespoonful of butter #b oz4 or #a_/d cupful ,butter size of an egg #a cupful of butter #a_/b pound4 #d cupfuls of flour #a pound4 #a heaping quart #h round tablespoonfuls of dry material #a cupful4 #af tablespoonfuls of liquid #a cupful4 ,,proportions #e to #h eggs to #a quart of milk for custards4 #c to #d eggs to #a pint of milk for custards4 #a saltspoonful of salt to #a quart of milk for custards4 #a teaspoonful of vanilla to one quart of milk for custards4 #b ounces of gelatine to #a-c_/d quarts of liquid4 #d heaping tablespoonfuls of cornstarch to #a quart of milk4 #c heaping teaspoonfuls of baking-powder to #a quart of flour4 #a even teaspoonful of baking-powder to #a cupful of flour4 #a teaspoonful of soda to #a pint of sour milk4 #a teaspoonful of soda to #a_/b pint of molasses4 ,,materials ,sidenote3 ,gelatine4 ,cooper's gelatine costs eight cents a box1 holding two ounces4 ,unless perfectly transparent jelly1 without clarifying1 is required1 it serves as well as the more expensive brands4 ,cox's gelatine costs fifteen cents a box1 containing one and one half ounces4 ,it is clear1 and needs only to be strained to make a transparent jelly4 ,isinglass comes in thin sheets1 is very clear1 and makes a brilliant jelly4 ,it costs ten cents an ounce1 and there are eight and one half sheets of the white1 thirteen sheets of the red1 to an ounce4 ,for dissolving and proportions1 see page #dab4 ,sidenote3 ,chocolate4 ,unsweetened chocolate costs about thirty-eight cents a pound4 ,it is usually divided into squares weighing one ounce each4 ,sweetened chocolate costs about fifty cents per pound1 and is usually divided into bars1 each weighing a little less than one and a quarter ounces4 ,sidenote3 ,to melt chocolate4 ,break the chocolate into pieces1 and put them into a dry pan on the fire1 where the heat is moderate4 ,the chocolate melts quickly1 and must be carefully watched1 or it will burn4 ,add a few spoonfuls of milk to melted chocolate to dissolve it before adding it to custards4 ,sidenote3 ,to whip eggs4 ,do not let a particle of the yolk get into the whites4 ,add a little salt1 and they will whip more quickly4 ,the daisy beater1 with the handle bent1 as shown in illustration1 is an excellent one for whipping eggs4 ,hold it flat1 and whip with an upward motion4 ,sidenote3 ,sweetening4 ,one tablespoonful of powdered sugar to the white of one egg is the right proportion for sweetening meringue4 ,add but one spoonful of sugar at a time1 place it on the side of the dish1 and beat it in gradually from below4 ,this will destroy the air-cells less1 and leave the egg lighter than sprinkling the sugar over the top4 ,sidenote3 ,to whip cream4 ,to whip cream1 see page #djh4 ,sidenote3 ,milk4 ,milk is scalded when the water in the outside double kettle boils4 ,sidenote3 ,raisins4 ,raisins are more easily stoned if soaked a few minutes4 ,roll raisins and currants in flour before adding them to cake or puddings4 ,if added the last thing they will then hold in place1 and not sink to the bottom4 ,sidenote3 ,thickening4 ,use arrowroot to thicken fruit juices4 ,it cooks perfectly clear1 and does not destroy the color or cloud the transparency of the fruit4 ,sidenote3 ,flavoring4 ,where essences or wine flavorings are used they are put in the last thing1 and after the mixture is cooked4 ,for cold desserts the mixture should be partly or entirely cold before adding them4 ,sidenote3 ,molding4 ,in molding mixtures be careful that bubbles of air do not form on the sides of the molds1 as they leave holes and destroy the smoothness and beauty of the form4 ,this can be prevented by pouring the mixture very slowly into the center of the tin4 ,,flavors ,vanilla has long held first place in ,american cooking as flavoring1 but is no longer highly esteemed1 and by many it is considered injurious4 ,the essences of fruits1 flowers1 and nuts are preferable4 ,they cost twenty cents per bottle of two ounces4 ,sidenote3 ,liqueurs4 ,cordials or liqueurs give by far the most delicate and pleasant flavor to jellies1 creams1 and many other desserts4 ,they are rich syrups of different flavors1 and contain only enough spirits to preserve them4 ,maraschino has the flavor of bitter cherry1 curacao of orange-peel1 noyau of peach-kernels or nuts4 ,they cost about #a4ej per bottle1 holding nearly a quart1 and last so long a time that the expense of using them is really not greater1 if as much1 as for vanilla1 which costs twenty-five cents for two ounces4 ,sidenote3 ,wines4 ,kirsch1 rum1 and sherry are also much used in high-class cooking1 and1 like the liqueurs1 need not be excluded from use on the score of temperance4 ,the slight flavor they impart to cooked dishes does not suggest the drink or create a taste for liquors4 ,wine augments the flavor of salt1 and so the latter should be used sparingly until after the flavoring is added4 ,sidenote3 ,eau de ,vie de ,dantzic4 ,eau de ,vie de ,dantzic is made of brandy1 is highly flavored1 and contains gold-leaf4 ,it is used for jellies1 making them very ornamental4 ,there is seldom enough gold-leaf in it1 however1 and more should be added4 ,a book of gold-leaf costs less than fifty cents4 ,sidenote3 ,vanilla bean4 ,in ,french cooking the vanilla bean is generally used instead of the extract4 ,the bean is split and infused in the liquid4 ,half of one bean is sufficient to flavor one quart1 but its use is not always economical1 as one bean costs twenty cents4 ,it is said the ,tonquin bean1 which is much less expensive1 very closely resembles the vanilla bean in flavor and can be substituted for it4 ,sidenote3 ,vanilla powder4 ,vanilla powder is used for ice-creams4 ,sidenote3 ,vanilla sugar4 ,vanilla sugar is better than the extract of vanilla for meringues1 whips1 etc41 where a liquid is not desirable4 ,sidenote3 ,flavoring sugars4 ,flavoring sugars can be made as follows3 ,sidenote3 ,vanilla sugar4 ,cut one ounce of dried vanilla beans into pieces and pound them in a mortar with one half pound of granulated sugar to a fine powder4 ,pass it through a fine sieve4 ,pound again the coarse pieces that do not go through at first4 ,keep it in a well-corked bottle or preserve jar4 ,sidenote3 ,orange sugar4 ,cut from six oranges the thin yellow rind1 or zest1 taking none of the white peel4 ,let it thoroughly dry1 then pound it in a mortar with a cupful of granulated sugar and pass it through a fine sieve4 ,keep it in an air-tight jar4 ,one tablespoonful of this sugar will flavor a quart of custard4 ,the ,mandarin orange makes a good flavor4 ,sidenote3 ,lemon sugar4 ,another way is to rub cut loaf-sugar against the peel of an orange or lemon4 ,as the sugar breaks the oil sacs and absorbs the zest1 scrape it off1 dry1 and pass it through a fine sieve4 ,sidenote3 ,rose sugar4 ,make the same as orange sugar1 using two cupfuls of dried rose leaves to one of sugar4 ,sidenote3 ,orange and lemon syrups4 ,orange and lemon syrups are made by pounding the thin yellow rinds with a little tepid water to a pulp1 then adding it to cold syrup at #cb deg4 7see page #eac71 and letting it infuse for an hour or more4 ,strain and keep in air-tight jars4 ,sidenote3 ,pistachio flavor4 ,pistachio flavor can be obtained1 when it is not convenient to use the nuts1 by first flavoring with orange-flower water1 then adding a very little essence of bitter almond4 ,a peach leaf1 infused with milk when it is scalded for custard1 will give the flavor of noyau4 ,sidenote3 ,caramel4 ,caramel 7see page #gh74 ,this gives a very delicate and agreeable flavor to custards1 cream and ices4 ,sidenote3 ,preserved orange and lemon peel4 ,candied orange and lemon peel cut into shreds is good in custards and cakes4 ,to prepare it1 boil the peel in water until tender1 then in sugar and water until clear2 let it stand in the syrup several hours1 then drain and dry4 ,it will keep indefinitely in a closed jar4 ,,coloring ,vegetable coloring pastes1 which are entirely harmless1 can be obtained for twenty-five cents a bottle4 ,the green and the red1 or carmine1 are the colors generally used for icings1 creams and jellies4 ,the orange is used for orange-cake icing and candies4 ,very little should be used1 as the colors should be delicate4 ,to guard against using too much it is well to dilute it with a little water and add only a few drops at a time to the mixture4 ,the various shades of red to pink are obtained by using more or less carmine4 ,sidenote3 ,fruit juices4 ,fruit juices impart both color and flavor4 ,they should be filtered 7see page #dae7 before using1 or they give a muddy color4 ,,garnishing ,to decorate cold sweet dishes1 use fancy cakes1 icings1 fruits either fresh1 candied1 compote or glace2 jellies or blanc-mange molded1 or made into a layer and then cut into fancy shapes4 ,spun sugar 7see page #eae7 makes a fine decoration1 and can be formed into nests1 wreaths1 balls1 or simply spread irregularly over a dish4 ,sidenote3 ,candied ,california fruits4 ,the candied ,california fruits are very useful and beautiful for both cold and hot desserts4 ,they cost sixty to eighty cents a pound1 and are not expensive1 as but little is used at a time1 and they keep indefinitely in closed jars4 ,cherries are used whole1 the other fruits are cut into pieces4 ,sidenote3 ,angelica4 ,angelica is also very effective for decoration4 ,a piece costing twenty cents will go a long way4 ,it is cut into thin strips and then into diamond-shaped or triangular pieces1 and used to simulate leaves4 ,the combination of cherries and angelica is especially pretty4 ,sidenote3 ,currants4 ,a mold sprinkled with currants makes a good garnish for hot or cold puddings4 ,sidenote3 ,raisins and almonds4 ,raisins and almonds also make an effective garnish for either hot or cold desserts4 ,sidenote3 ,nuts4 ,almonds1 pistachio nuts1 filberts1 ,english walnuts and chestnuts are employed in many ways1 as see receipts4 ,sidenote3 ,fresh flowers4 ,fresh flowers and green leaves may be used with good effect on many cold dishes4 ,pink roses lend themselves particularly to this purpose4 ,violets1 pansies1 geraniums1 sweet-peas and others are often appropriate4 ,nasturtiums with salad are good for both decoration and flavor4 7,see opposite pages #cbh1 #daj1 #dib47 ,sidenote3 ,colored sugars4 ,colored sugars and small candies called hundreds and thousands are used to sprinkle over icings1 meringues1 creams and whips4 ,to color sugar sift coarse granulated sugar1 spread the coarse grains on stiff paper1 and drop on it a few drops of coloring fluid4 ,roll it under the hand until evenly tinted1 then leave to dry on the paper4 ,keep in corked bottles4 ,sidenote3 ,sauces4 ,sauces for cold sweet dishes are custards1 whipped cream1 canned or preserved fruit1 fresh fruit juices1 or purees4 ,the purees are crushed fruit sweetened to taste 7with syrup at #cj deg4 if convenient74 ,they are improved with a little flavoring of ,maraschino1 kirsch1 curacao1 or with orange or lemon juice4 ,peach is improved in appearance if slightly colored with carmine4 ,sidenote3 ,canned fruits4 ,canned fruits are now very inexpensive1 and many of them are fresh in taste as well as appearance4 ,they are useful in a variety of desserts1 and often suit the purpose as well as fresh fruits4 ,,the ,,store-,,closet ,sidenote3 ,garnishing and flavoring4 ,the various articles needed for garnishing1 flavoring1 etc41 should be kept in glass preserve jars1 and labeled4 ,the store-closet1 once furnished with the requisites for fancy dishes1 will tempt the ordinary cook to a higher class of work1 and contribute to the desirable end of presenting dishes that please both sight and taste1 and so raise the standard of every-day cooking4 ,it is very easy to garnish a dish or decorate a mold1 and the habit once formed will lead to more ambitious attempts4 ,,custards ,,boiled ,,custard ,,no4 #a #b cupfuls1 or one pint1 of milk4 ,yolks of #c eggs4 #a_/b saltspoonful of salt4 #a_/b teaspoonful of vanilla4 #c tablespoonfuls of sugar4 ,boiled custard is the basis of many puddings1 ice-creams and sauces4 ,it requires care to get it just right1 for the cooking must be arrested at the right point2 a moment too soon leaves it too thin1 a moment too long curdles and spoils it4 ,it should have the consistency of thick cream1 and be perfectly smooth4 ,it is safer to make it in a double boiler4 ,bring the milk to the scalding-point without boiling2 then take from the fire1 and pour it slowly into the eggs and sugar1 which have been beaten together to a cream2 stir all the time2 replace on the fire1 and stir until the custard coats the spoon1 or a smooth creamy consistency is attained2 then immediately strain it into a cold dish1 and add the flavoring4 ,if vanilla bean1 peach leaves1 or lemon zest are used for flavoring1 they can be boiled with the milk4 ,if by accident the custard begins to grain1 arrest the cooking at once by putting the saucepan in cold water2 add a little cold milk1 and beat it vigorously with a ,dover beater4 ,five egg yolks to a quart of milk will make a good boiled custard1 but six or eight make it richer4 ,it is smoother when the yolks only are used1 yet the whole egg makes a good custard1 and in the emergency of not having enough eggs at hand a little corn-starch may be used4 ,boiled custard may be flavored with vanilla1 almond1 rose1 maraschino1 noyau1 caramel1 coffee1 chopped almonds1 grated cocoanut1 or pounded macaroons4 ,the cocoanut makes a delicious custard1 but must be rich with eggs and stiff enough to keep the cocoanut from settling to the bottom4 ,,boiled ,,custard ,,no4 #b4 ,make a boiled custard 7see preceding receipt71 using a pint of milk1 three egg yolks1 three tablespoonfuls of sugar1 dash of salt1 and any flavoring preferred4 ,let it get entirely cold2 just before serving mix in lightly the whites of three eggs beaten to a stiff froth4 ,this will give a sponge-like texture1 and make a very delicate custard4 ,as the whites are not cooked it will not keep long after they are added4 ,ornament the top with bits of jelly on small pieces of the whipped egg4 ,,floating ,,island ,whip the whites of two or three eggs very stiff2 add a tablespoonful of powdered sugar 7see page #chi7 to each egg2 flavor with essence of almond1 and add a few chopped almonds4 ,turn it into an oiled pudding-mold which has a fancy top2 cover and place it in a saucepan of boiling water to poach for twenty minutes4 ,leave enough room in the mold for the meringue to swell4 ,let it stand in the mold until cold2 it will contract and leave the sides4 ,when ready to serve1 unmold the meringue and place it on boiled custard served in a glass dish4 ,illustration3 ,,floating ,,island4 7,,see ,,page #cie47 ,,chocolate ,,custard ,make a boiled custard ,no4 #a1 using the whites as well as the yolks of the eggs2 add one bar of melted chocolate 7see page #chh74 ,mix thoroughly and strain into cups4 ,,baked ,,custard ,use the same proportions as for boiled custard4 ,beat the eggs1 sugar1 and salt together to a cream2 stir in the scalded milk2 turn into a pudding-dish or into cups2 grate a little nutmeg over the top2 stand it in a pan of hot water1 and bake in a moderate oven until firm in the center4 ,test by running a knife into the custard4 ,if it comes out clean1 it is done2 if milky1 it needs longer cooking2 but it must be carefully watched1 for it will separate if cooked too long4 ,a custard1 to be smooth and solid1 must be baked very slowly4 ,the holes often seen in baked custard are caused by escaping bubbles of steam1 which rise through the mixture when the heat reaches the boiling-point4 ,,caramel ,,custard ,put a cupful of granulated sugar into a small saucepan with a tablespoonful of water2 stir until melted2 then let it cook until a light brown color 7see caramel1 page #gh74 ,turn one half the caramel into a well-buttered mold which has straight sides and flat top1 and let it get cold4 ,into the rest of the caramel turn a half cupful of hot water1 and let it stand on the side of the range until the caramel is dissolved4 ,this is for the sauce4 ,stir four yolks and two whole eggs1 with three tablespoonfuls of sugar1 and one half saltspoonful of salt1 to a cream1 but do not let it froth2 add a pint of scalded milk and a half teaspoonful of vanilla4 ,strain this into the mold onto the cold hardened caramel4 ,place the mold in a pan of hot water1 and bake in a very moderate oven until firm in the center2 test by running in a knife 7see baked custard71 and watch it carefully4 ,the water in the pan must not boil1 and the oven should be so slow that it will take at least an hour to cook the custard4 ,it will then be very firm and smooth4 ,unmold the custard when ready to serve4 ,it will have a glaze of caramel over the top1 and some will run down the sides4 ,serve the caramel sauce in another dish4 ,this dish is recommended4 ,,chocolate ,,cream ,,custard ,use the same proportions as for caramel custard4 ,add one and one half ounces of melted chocolate 7see page #chh74 ,strain it into a buttered mold1 and bake slowly the same as caramel custard4 ,unmold when cold1 and serve with or without whipped cream4 ,both the caramel and the chocolate cream custards may be baked in individual timbale-molds1 if preferred4 ,,rennet ,,custard ,sweeten and flavor the milk2 heat it until lukewarm2 then turn it into the glass dish in which it is to be served4 ,add to each quart of milk a tablespoonful of liquid rennet 7which comes prepared for custards71 and mix it thoroughly4 ,let it stand where it will remain lukewarm until a firm curd is formed2 then remove carefully to a cold place4 ,if jarred the whey is likely to separate4 ,brandy or rum make the best flavoring for this custard1 but any flavoring may be used4 ,it may be served without sauce1 but a whipped cream1 colored pink1 improves it1 and also takes away the suggestion of soured milk which curds give4 ,,corn-,,starch ,,puddings 7,,no4 #a47 ,a ,,plain ,,corn-,,starch ,,pudding #a pint of milk4 #b heaping tablespoonfuls of corn-starch4 #c tablespoonfuls of sugar4 ,whites of #c eggs4 #a_/b teaspoonful of vanilla4 ,beat the eggs to a stiff froth4 ,dissolve the corn-starch in a little of the cold milk4 ,stir the sugar into the rest of the milk1 and place it on the fire4 ,when it begins to boil1 add the dissolved corn-starch4 ,stir constantly for a few moments4 ,when it becomes well thickened1 stir in the beaten whites of the eggs1 and let it remain a little longer to cook the eggs4 ,remove from the fire2 flavor with vanilla1 and turn it into a mold4#cig-99 ,this pudding is quickly and easily made4 ,it gives about a quart of pudding1 or enough to serve six to eight persons4 ,it may or may not be served with a custard made of the yolks of the eggs1 but it requires a good sauce and flavoring1 or it is rather tasteless4 ,several variations of this receipt are given below4 ,,footnotes3 #cig-99 ,corn-starch has a raw taste unless it is thoroughly cooked4 ,after the mixture has thickened it can be left to cook in a double boiler for half an hour without changing its consistency1 and this length of time for cooking is essential to its flavor4 ,a mold of corn starch should not be very firm1 but have a trembling jelly-like consistency4 ,the eggs may be omitted from above receipt if desired1 but the pudding will not be as delicate4--,m4 ,r4 7,,no4 #b47 ,,corn-,,starch ,,with ,,canned ,,fruit ,when the corn-starch is sufficiently set to hold the fruit in place1 stir into it lightly one half can of well-drained fruit 7cherries1 raspberries1 strawberries1 or any other fruit71 and turn it into a mold to harden4 ,serve the juice of the fruit with it as a sauce4 ,illustration3 ,,cornstarch ,,pudding ,,molded ,,in ,,ring ,,mold ,,with ,,white ,,california ,,canned ,,cherries ,,and ,,center ,,filled ,,with ,,cherries4 7,,no4 #c47 ,,cocoanut ,,pudding ,when the corn-starch is removed from the fire1 and partly cooled1 add half a cocoanut grated4 ,mix it well together and turn into a mold2 serve with a custard or1 better1 with whipped cream4 ,sprinkle sugar over the half of the grated cocoanut not used1 and spread it on a sieve to dry4 ,it will keep for some time when dried4 7,,no4 #d47 ,,chocolate ,,pudding ,when the corn-starch is taken from the fire and flavored1 turn one third of it into a saucepan1 and mix with it one and a half ounces or squares of chocolate melted1 a tablespoonful of sugar if unsweetened chocolate is used1 and a half cupful of stoned raisins4 ,let it cook one minute to set the chocolate4 ,turn into a plain cylindrical mold one half of the white corn-starch4 ,make it a smooth1 even layer1 keeping the edges clean2 then add the chocolate2 smooth it in the same way2 then add the rest of the white corn-starch1 making three even layers1 alternating in color2 after each layer is in wipe the sides of the mold so no speck of one color will deface the other4 7,see illustration47 ,illustration3 ,,cornstarch ,,pudding ,,in ,,layers4 7,,see ,,page #cih47 ,illustration3 ,,cornstarch ,,pudding ,,with ,,pansies ,,molded ,,in ,a ,,layer ,,of ,,jelly ,,on ,,top--,,garnished ,,with ,,pansies4 ,,corn-,,starch ,,chocolates 7,,very ,,simple1 ,,and ,,quickly ,,made7 ,scald a pint of milk and four tablespoonfuls of sugar2 add an ounce of chocolate shaved thin1 so it will dissolve quickly2 then add two heaping tablespoonfuls of corn-starch which has been diluted with a little of the cold milk4 ,stir over the fire until the mixture is thickened1 add a half teaspoonful of vanilla1 and turn it into small cups to cool and harden4 ,unmold the forms when ready to serve1 and use sweetened milk for a sauce4 ,by using a little less corn-starch1 this mixture will be a smooth1 thick custard1 and may be served in the cups4 ,,blanc-,,mange1 ,,or ,,white ,,jelly #a_/b box1 or #a ounce1 of gelatine4 #c-a_/b cupfuls of milk4 #c_/d cupful of sugar4 #a teaspoonful of vanilla1 or other flavor4 ,scald three cupfuls of milk with the sugar2 then add and dissolve in it the gelatine1 which has soaked for one half hour in a half cupful of milk4 ,remove from the fire1 add the flavoring1 and strain into a mold4 ,blanc-mange may be flavored with any of the liqueurs1 and it may have incorporated with it1 when stiffened enough to hold them suspended1 chopped nuts or fruits1 or raisins1 currants1 and citron4 ,,plum ,,pudding ,,jelly #a_/b box1 or #a ounce1 of gelatine soaked #a_/b hour in #a cupful of cold water4 #a-a_/b ounces of chocolate4 #a cupful of sugar4 #a pint of milk4 #a cupful of raisins stoned4 #a_/b cupful of currants4 #a_/d cupful of sliced citron4 ,dissolve the sugar in the milk1 and put it in a double boiler to scald4 ,melt the chocolate on a dry pan2 then add a few spoonfuls of the milk to make it smooth1 and add it to the scalded milk4 ,remove from the fire1 and add the soaked gelatine4 ,stir until the gelatine is dissolved2 then strain it into a bowl4 ,when it begins to set1 or is firm enough to hold the fruit in place1 stir in the fruit1 which must have stood in warm water a little while to soften4 ,flavor with one half teaspoonful of vanilla1 or a few drops of lemon4 ,turn it into a mold to harden4 ,serve with it whipped cream1 or a sauce made of the whipped white of one egg1 one tablespoonful of powdered sugar1 a cupful of milk1 and a few drops of vanilla4 ,,bavarian ,,creams ,sidenote3 ,general remarks about4 ,,bavarian ,,creams are very wholesome1 light1 and delicious desserts4 ,they are easily made1 and are inexpensive1 as one pint of cream is sufficient to make a quart and a half of bavarian4 ,they are subject to so many variations that they may be often presented without seeming to be the same dish4 ,bavarian creams may be used for ,charlotte ,russe4 ,,general ,,rules4--,have the cream cold2 then whipped1 and drained 7see whipping cream71 and do not add the whipped cream to the gelatine mixture until the latter is beginning to set4 ,sidenote3 ,how to make4 ,have the gelatine soaked in cold water one hour4 ,it will then quickly dissolve in the hot custard4 ,do not boil the gelatine4 ,,plain ,,bavarian ,,cream #a pint of cream whipped4 #a pint of cream or milk4 #a_/b cupful of sugar4 ,yolks of #d eggs4 #a_/b saltspoonful of salt4 #a_/b box1 or #a ounce1 of gelatine soaked in one half cupful of water4 #a_/b vanilla bean1 or #a teaspoonful of vanilla extract4 ,whip one pint of cream1 and stand it aside to drain4 ,scald one pint of cream or milk with the vanilla bean split in two2 remove it from the fire1 and turn it slowly1 stirring all the time1 on the yolks1 which have been beaten with the sugar and salt to a cream4 ,return it to the fire a moment to set the egg1 but take it off the moment it begins to thicken4 ,add the soaked gelatine and flavoring 7if the bean has not been used74 ,stir until the gelatine has dissolved1 then pass it through a sieve4 ,when it is cold1 and beginning to set1 whip it a few minutes with a ,dover beater and then mix in lightly the whipped cream1 and turn it into a mold to harden4 ,avoid using any of the cream which has returned to liquid4 ,this cream should have a spongy texture4 ,,chocolate ,,bavarian ,use the receipt given above for plain ,bavarian4 ,melt two ounces of chocolate1 and dissolve it in a little milk2 add this to the custard mixture before the gelatine4 ,,italian ,,cream1 ,,or ,,bavarian ,,without ,,cream ,make a custard of one pint of milk1 the yolks of three eggs1 and three tablespoonfuls of sugar2 add a dash of salt4 ,when it is cooked enough to coat the spoon1 add an ounce of gelatine1 which has soaked for half an hour in some of the cold milk4 ,as soon as the gelatine is dissolved1 remove from the fire1 and when it begins to stiffen fold in carefully the whites of three eggs whipped to a stiff froth1 and turn it into a mold to set4 ,,fruit ,,bavarian ,mash and press through a colander any fresh or canned fruit4 ,if berries are used1 press them through a sieve to extract the seeds4 ,sweeten to taste1 and flavor with a little orange and lemon-juice1 curacao1 or maraschino4 ,to a pint of fruit juice or pulp add a half box or one ounce of gelatine1 which has soaked an hour in one half cupful of cold water1 and then been dissolved in one half cupful of hot water4 ,stir the fruit and gelatine on ice until it begins to set1 otherwise the fruit will settle to the bottom4 ,then stir in lightly a pint of cream whipped and well-drained1 and turn it into a mold to harden4 ,strawberries1 raspberries1 pineapple1 peaches1 and apricots are the fruits generally used4 ,with fruits it is better to use a porcelain mold if possible1 as tin discolors4 ,if a tin one is used1 coat it with jelly as directed on page #cbc1 using a little of the dissolved gelatine 7sweetened and flavored7 prepared for the fruit4 ,,rice ,,bavarian1 ,,or ,,riz ,a ,l',,imperatrice ,put into a double boiler one and one half pints of milk and a few thin cuts of lemon-zest2 when it boils stir in one half cupful of well-washed rice and a saltspoonful of salt4 ,cook until the rice is perfectly tender4 ,the milk should be nearly boiled away1 leaving the rice very moist4 ,then add or mix in carefully a half cupful of sugar and a quarter of a box1 or one half ounce1 of gelatine1 which has soaked in half a cupful of cold water for one hour1 and then melted by placing the cup containing it in hot water for a few minutes4 ,when the mixture is partly cold add three tablespoonfuls each of maraschino and of sherry1 or of sherry alone1 or of any other flavoring4 ,when it is beginning to set1 stir in lightly one half pint or more of well-whipped cream1 and turn it into a mold4 ,this is a very white dish1 and is a delicious dessert4 ,it may be served alone1 or with orange jelly cut into croutons1 or with orange compote 7see page #ecf71 or with plain or whipped cream4 ,,bavarian ,,panachee ,make a plain ,bavarian2 flavor with vanilla2 divide it into three parts before the cream is added4 ,into one third stir one ounce of melted chocolate4 ,into another third mix two tablespoonfuls of pistachio nuts chopped fine1 and color it green 7see page #cib74 ,arrange the three parts in layers in a mold1 beginning with the white1 and stir into each one1 after it has begun to set1 and just before putting it into the mold1 a third of the whipped cream4 ,by keeping it in a warm place the ,bavarian will not set before it is wanted1 and it can then be made to set quickly by placing it on ice4 ,,bavarian ,,en ,,surprise ,line a mold with chocolate ,bavarian one inch thick4 ,fill the center with vanilla ,bavarian mixed with chopped nuts1 or line the mold with vanilla ,bavarian1 and fill with fruit ,bavarian 7see double molding1 page #cbe74 ,,diplomatic ,,pudding ,this is molded in a double mold1 and made of very clear lemon1 orange1 or wine jelly for the outside1 and a ,bavarian cream for the inside4 ,with candied fruits make a design on the bottom of the larger mold 7see molding1 page #cbe72 fix it with a very little jelly1 then add enough more to make a half or three quarter inch layer of jelly4 ,when it is set put in the center mold4 ,make a layer of fruit and a layer of jelly alternately until the outside space is filled1 using fruits of different colors for the different layers or stripes4 ,when it is set1 remove the small mold1 and fill the space with ,bavarian1 using a flavor that goes well with the one used in the jelly--maraschino with orange2 sherry1 noyau1 or almond with lemon4 ,,diplomatic ,,bavarian ,take six lady-fingers2 open1 and spread them with apricot1 or with peach jam4 ,place them together again like a sandwich4 ,moisten them with maraschino1 and cut them in one inch lengths4 ,boil until softened a half cupful of stoned raisins and a half cupful of currants2 drain them1 and moisten them with maraschino4 ,make a plain ,bavarian flavored with kirsch4 ,when it is beginning to set and ready to go into the mold1 mix it lightly with the cake and fruit1 and turn into a mold to harden4 ,,charlotte ,,russe ,sidenote3 ,forms4 ,charlotte ,russe is simply a cream mixture1 molded1 with cake on the outside4 ,it is easily made and always liked4 ,charlotte pans are oval1 but any plain1 round mold1 or a kitchen basin with sides not too slanting1 or individual molds may be used4 ,sidenote3 ,general directions4 ,first place on the bottom of the pan an oiled paper which is cut to fit it neatly2 then arrange lady-fingers evenly around the sides1 or instead of lady-fingers use strips of layer sponge cake1 ,no4 #a 7page #dff71 or of ,genoese 7page #dfg74 ,cut the strips one or one and a half inches wide1 and fit them closely together4 ,fill the center with any of the mixtures given below1 and let it stand an hour or more to harden4 ,illustration3 ,,charlotte ,,russe ,,made ,,with ,,lady ,,fingers4 ,sidenote3 ,ornamentation4 ,sidenote3 ,cake in two colors4 ,sidenote3 ,icing in two colors4 ,sidenote3 ,decorating the top4 ,a sheet of cake cut to fit the top may1 or may not1 be used4 ,if cake is used it is better to place it on the ,charlotte after it is unmolded and the paper removed4 ,the layer cake should be one quarter or three eighths of an inch thick only4 ,charlottes can be ornamented in many ways1 and made very elaborate if desired4 ,a simple decoration is obtained by having the strips of cake in two colors1 alternating the upper1 or browned1 with the under1 or white1 side of the cake4 ,for the top1 cut a piece of cake to the right shape4 ,then cut it transversely1 making even1 triangular pieces1 with the width at the base the same as the side strips4 ,turn over each alternate piece to give the two colors 7see illustration72 or1 ice the strips and the top piece of cake with royal icing 7see illustration7 in two colors4 ,let the icing harden before placing it in the mold4 ,have the sides1 as well as the bottom1 of the mold lined with paper4 ,arrange the strips in the mold with the colors alternating4 ,instead of using cake for the top1 some of the filling mixture can be put into a pastry-bag1 and pressed through a tube over the top in fancy forms4 ,meringue or whipped cream may also be used for decorating the top4 ,illustration3 ,,charlotte ,,russe ,,with ,,cake ,,arranged ,,in ,,strips ,,of ,,two ,,colors4 7,,see ,,page #djd47 ,illustration3 ,,charlotte ,,russe ,,with ,,strips ,,of ,,cake ,,iced ,,in ,,two ,,colors4 7,,see ,,page #djd47 ,illustration3 ,,charlotte ,,russe ,,made ,,of ,,one ,,layer ,,of ,,cake--,,top ,,decorated ,,with ,,dots ,,of ,,icing4 ,,charlotte ,,russe ,,filling ,no4 #a ,whip a pint of cream to a stiff froth4 ,soak a half ounce of gelatine in three tablespoonfuls of cold water for half an hour2 then dissolve it with two tablespoonfuls of boiling water4 ,add to the whipped cream a tablespoonful of powdered sugar 7or a little more if liqueurs are not used for flavoring71 and two dessertspoonfuls of noyau or other liqueur1 or a teaspoonful of vanilla4 ,then turn in slowly the dissolved gelatine1 beating all the time4 ,when it begins to stiffen turn it into a mold which is lined with cake4 ,,charlotte ,,russe ,,filling ,no4 #b ,beat well together two yolks of eggs and a half tablespoonful of sugar4 ,scald a half cupful of milk1 and stir it into the beaten yolks2 add a dash of salt1 and return it to the double boiler4 ,stir it over the fire until it coats the spoon1 thus making a plain boiled custard4 ,add to the hot custard a level tablespoonful of ,cooper's gelatine1 which has soaked for half an hour in four tablespoonfuls of cold water2 stir until the gelatine is dissolved1 then strain it into a bowl1 add two tablespoonfuls of sherry 7or use any flavoring desired7 and the whipped whites of two eggs2 beat until it just begins to thicken1 then mix in lightly a pint of cream whipped to a stiff froth1 and turn into the mold4 ,,charlotte ,,russe ,,filling ,no4 #c 7,fruit7 ,soak an ounce of gelatine in a half cupful of cold water for half an hour4 ,make a syrup of one cupful of sugar1 a half cupful of lemon-juice1 and two cupfuls of orange-juice4 ,when it has become a light syrup1 turn it slowly onto the beaten yolks of four eggs1 beating all the time4 ,return it to the double boiler1 and cook until it is a little thickened1 then add the gelatine4 ,when the gelatine is dissolved1 strain and beat until it is cold2 add the whites of four eggs1 and beat until it stiffens1 then turn it into the mold4 ,a pint of whipped cream may be used instead of the whipped whites of the eggs if convenient4 ,in place of orange and lemon-juice1 any fruit may be used4 ,stew the fruit until tender1 add enough sugar to sweeten1 and cook it to a light syrup2 then press the fruit through a sieve1 and to two and a half cupfuls of fruit syrup or of fruit pulp add the four eggs1 and proceed as directed for the orange filling4 ,,charlotte ,,russe ,,filling1 ,no4 #d ,use any of the plain or fruit ,bavarian creams4 ,,charlotte ,,russe ,,filling ,no4 #e ,use whipped jelly plain1 or whipped jelly with fruits1 called macedoine of fruits 7see page #dag74 ,,timbale ,,of ,,brioche ,bake a brioche 7see page #cei7 in a cylindrical mold4 ,cut a straight slice off the top about one inch thick2 replace the cake in the tin1 and carefully pick out the center of the loaf1 leaving a thickness of one inch of the brioche4 ,spread the inside with a layer of jam4 ,put in a saucepan the liquor from a can of apricots or peaches4 ,stir into it two tablespoonfuls of arrowroot1 moistened with a little water1 and stir over the fire until the juice is thickened and clear4 ,fill the center of the brioche with the drained fruit1 mixed with blanched almonds and raisins2 pour over it the thickened syrup1 replace the cover4 ,when set turn it onto a dish2 spread the outside with a little jam1 and sprinkle with chopped blanched almonds4 ,this makes a very simple and wholesome sweet4 ,,charlotte ,,princesse de ,,galles ,take eight ,carlsbad wafers of oblong shape4 ,stand them on end around the outside of a cylindrical mold1 and carefully stick the edges together with sugar cooked to the crack1 or with royal icing 7see page #dhc74 ,make the octagon as regular as possible4 ,when the edges are well set place it on a foundation either of puff-paste or of layer cake cut to the shape of the form4 ,ornament it with dots of royal icing pressed through a pastry-bag and tube onto the edges4 ,just before serving fill the center with whipped cream1 or with czarina cream1 or with whipped jelly and fruits1 or whipped jelly and meringue1 or with any of the mousses4 ,the wafers quickly loose their crispness1 so the form must not be filled until the moment of serving4 ,a filling may also be made for this ,charlotte of any of the ,charlotte ,russe mixtures1 molding them in a form smaller than the form of wafers1 and when unmolded the ornamental form placed over it1 and whipped cream piled on top4 ,in this way the wafers will not be softened4 ,illustration3 ,,charlotte ,,princesse ,,de ,,galles4 7,,see ,,page #djf47 ,illustration3 ,,charlotte ,,princesse ,,de ,,galles ,,made ,,of ,,rolled ,,gauffres4 7,,see ,,page #djf47 ,,strawberry ,,charlotte ,cut large firm strawberries in two lengthwise2 dip them in liquid gelatine1 and line a plain mold1 placing the flat side against the mold4 ,if the mold is on ice the jelly will harden at once1 and hold the berries in place4 ,fill the center with ,charlotte filling ,no4 #a1 or with ,bavarian cream1 or with pain de fraises4 ,,gateau ,,st4 ,,honore ,this is a combination of puff-paste1 cream cakes1 glace fruits1 and whipped cream4 ,it is said to be the triumph of the chef's art1 yet one need not fear to undertake it when one has learned to make good pastry and to boil sugar4 ,it is an ornamental1 delicious dessert1 and one that can be presented on the most formal occasions4 ,first3 ,roll thin a very short or a puff-paste1 so when baked it will be one quarter of an inch thick only4 ,cut it the size of a layer-cake tin2 place it on a dampened baking-tin1 and prick it with a fork in several places4 ,second3 make a cream-cake batter 7see page #dgd72 put the batter in a pastry-bag with half inch tube1 and press out onto and around the edge of the paste a ring of the batter4 ,with the rest of the batter make a number of small cakes 7two dozen71 forming them with the tube into balls one half inch in diameter4 ,brush the ring and balls with egg1 and bake in a quick oven2 then fill them with ,st4 ,honore cream 7see below74 ,third3 boil a cupful of sugar to the crack1 and glace some orange sections and some white grapes 7see glace fruits1 page #eaf74 ,fourth3 with some of the sugar used for the fruits stick the small cream cakes onto the ring1 making an even border2 on top of each cake stick a grape1 and between them a section of orange4 ,place a candied cherry on each piece of orange1 and one below it1 if there is room4 ,other candied fruits and angelica may be used also1 if desired1 and arranged in any way to suit the fancy4 ,fifth3 make a ,st4 ,honore cream as follows3 scald one cupful of milk in a double boiler2 turn it slowly onto the yolks of six eggs1 which have been well beaten with one and one half tablespoonfuls of corn-starch and a cupful of powdered sugar4 ,return to the fire until it begins to thicken or coats the spoon1 then remove1 and flavor with one teaspoonful each of vanilla and noyau1 and stir in lightly the whites of eight eggs beaten very stiff4 ,cook it one minute to set the whites1 beating all the time4 ,when cold1 turn it into the gateau4 ,whipped cream may or may not be piled on top of the ,st4 ,honore cream4 ,illustration3 ,,gateau ,,st4 ,,honore4 7,,see ,,page #djg47 ,,croquenbouche ,,of ,,macaroons ,oil the outside of a dome-shaped mold4 ,beginning at the bottom1 cover it with macaroons1 sticking the edges of the macaroons together with sugar boiled to the crack1 or with royal icing 7see page #dhc74 ,just before serving turn it off the mold1 and place it over a form of plain or fruit ,bavarian cream1 which has been hardened in a smaller mold of the same shape4 ,there should be an inch or more of space between the two1 the outer one covering the other like a cage4 ,a croquenbouche can also be made of little cakes cut from a layer cake with a small biscuit-cutter1 and iced in two colors with royal icing1 or with glace oranges1 or with chestnuts4 ,the latter are difficult to make1 but are very good with ice-creams4 ,,whipped ,,cream ,sidenote3 ,general directions4 ,sidenote3 ,temperature4 ,sidenote3 ,texture4 ,sidenote3 ,time for adding4 ,sidenote3 ,draining4 ,one half pint of double or very rich cream costs ten cents1 and may be diluted one half1 giving a pint of cream as called for in the receipts4 ,cream should be placed on the ice for several hours before it is whipped4 ,it is essential to have it very cold1 otherwise it will not whip well2 and also1 if rich cream1 it will form particles of butter4 ,if not lower than #fj deg4 it will all go to butter4 ,place the bowl containing the cream in a larger bowl containing cracked ice1 and with a cream churn1 ,dover beater1 or wire whip1 whichever is convenient1 whip it to a stiff froth2 continue to whip until it all becomes inflated4 ,if the cream is cold it will take but a few minutes4 ,this gives a firm1 fine-grained cream1 which is used for ,bavarians1 mousses1 ice-creams1 etc4 ,when a lighter and more frothy cream1 called syllabub1 is wanted for whips and sauces1 dilute the cream more1 and remove the froth from the top of the cream as it rises while being whipped1 and place it on a fine sieve over a bowl to drain4 ,that which drips through the sieve replace in the whipping-bowl to be again beaten4 ,the flavoring and sweetening are added after it is whipped for the first method2 but it is better to add it before for the latter1 as mixing breaks down the froth4 ,whipped cream1 like beaten whites of eggs1 added to gelatine or custard mixtures1 gives them a sponge-like texture4 ,it should be drained1 and added only when the mixtures are cold and ready to be molded or frozen4 ,it is then cut in lightly1 not stirred4 ,some judgment must be used about diluting the cream1 and it must stand several hours on ice to insure success4 ,cream whipped by the first method is the one recommended for all purposes4 ,when it is added to other things1 any liquid cream that may have dripped to the bottom of the bowl should not be put in4 ,,desserts ,,of ,,whipped ,,cream ,preserves and jams served with whipped cream make an excellent dessert4 ,,whips ,flavor a pint of cream with a dessertspoonful of maraschino1 kirsch1 or rum1 or with a teaspoonful of essence of vanilla1 rose1 or almonds1 or flavor it with black coffee4 ,color it pink1 or green1 or leave it white4 ,sweeten with three scant tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar4 ,whip it to a stiff froth and drain4 ,let it stand on ice until ready to use2 then with a spoon pile it high on a glass dish4 ,if the cream is white sprinkle it with colored pink and green sugar mixed 7see page #cic74 ,or1 skim off the foam which first rises1 placing several spoonfuls of it on a sieve to drain4 ,color the rest a delicate pink1 and whip it until it all becomes firm and of fine grain4 ,turn this into a glass dish1 and with a spoon place the white froth upon it4 ,,czarina ,,cream #a pint of cream4 #a_/d box of gelatine4 #a_/c cupful of sugar4 #a_/d cupful of blanched almonds4 #a teaspoonful of vanilla4 #a_/b teaspoonful of rosewater4 #d tablespoonfuls of sherry4 ,put a bowl containing the cream on ice2 whip it to a stiff froth2 add slowly the sugar1 then the gelatine 7which has first been soaked an hour in one quarter cupful of cold water1 and then dissolved by placing the cup in hot water71 beating all the time4 ,add the vanilla and rosewater1 and enough green coloring 7see page #cib7 to give it a delicate color4 ,when it begins to stiffen add the sherry1 and lastly the almonds chopped fine4 ,when the cream is quite firm put it in round paper boxes1 and sprinkle over the top a little colored sugar1 or chopped pistachio nuts and granulated sugar mixed4 ,let it stand an hour or more on ice before serving4 ,,chestnut ,,puree ,,with ,,cream ,boil a pound of shelled ,english chestnuts a few minutes2 then drain1 and remove the skins4 ,boil them again until tender2 drain1 and mash them through a puree sieve2 sweeten1 flavor with vanilla1 and moisten them with a little cream4 ,put the puree in a saucepan1 and stir over a slow heat until dry2 then press it through a colander or potato-press onto the dish in which it is to be served4 ,form it into a circle1 using care not to destroy the light and vermicelli-like form the colander has given it4 ,serve whipped cream in the center of the ring4 ,,chestnuts ,,with ,,cream ,after removing the shells and skins from some ,english chestnuts1 boil them until tender in water1 then in sugar and water1 until clear4 ,let them lie in the syrup until cold2 then drain1 and pile them on a dish4 ,boil the syrup down to a thick consistency1 and pour it over the nuts4 ,serve cold with whipped cream4 ,,uses ,,for ,,stale ,,cake ,,pine ,,cones ,with a biscuit-cutter1 cut slices of stale cake or bread into circles4 ,moisten them with sherry1 maraschino1 or merely with a little hot water4 ,chop some fresh or canned pineapple into small pieces1 and pile it on the cakes4 ,with a knife press each one into the form of a cone or small pyramid4 ,place them in a shallow tin close together1 but not touching4 ,put the pineapple liquor into a saucepan1 and thicken it with arrowroot 7which has first been wet with water71 using a teaspoonful to a cupful of liquor4 ,cook until the arrowroot becomes clear and begins to stiffen2 then pour it slowly over the cones4 ,it will cover them with a jelly4 ,when cold1 trim them carefully so the base of each one will be round1 and lift them carefully from the tin4 ,,cake ,,with ,,custard ,spread slices of stale cake or cottage pudding with jam2 place them in a glass dish1 and cover with boiled custard2 or first moisten the cake with sherry1 then cover with custard4 ,,trifle 7,esther7 ,slice in two six square sponge cakes 7layer cake cut in squares will do71 spread with jam or jelly 7a tart jelly is best71 and put them together like sandwiches4 ,moisten them in a mixture of one third brandy and two thirds sherry4 ,put them in a glass dish1 and pour over them a custard made of one pint of milk1 three eggs1 and three tablespoonfuls of sugar2 put together as directed for boiled custard ,no4 #b 7page #cie74 ,blanch and cut in fine strips one half cupful of almonds1 and stick them into the top cakes standing upright4 ,cover all with a half pint of whipped cream1 and sprinkle the top with hundreds and thousands 7see page #cic71 or with colored sugar 7see page #cic74 ,,banana ,,trifle 7,martha7 #a_/b cupful of milk4 #a_/b cupful of water4 #a heaping teaspoonful of cornstarch4 #a even teaspoonful of sugar4 #a_/b saltspoonful of salt4 #b bananas4 #f lady-fingers4 #a_/b pint of cream1 or the whipped white of one egg4 ,slice the bananas1 and lay them in a glass dish in alternate layers with four lady-fingers split in two4 ,put the milk and water in a saucepan2 add the sugar1 salt1 and the corn-starch diluted in a little cold water4 ,when it has thickened pour it over the bananas1 and let it stand until cold and ready to serve2 then cover the top with whipped cream1 or if that is not convenient use the whipped white of one egg sweetened with one tablespoonful of sugar4 ,split and break in two the remaining lady-fingers1 and place them upright around the edge4 ,,sweet ,,jellies ,with different flavors1 colors1 and combinations1 a great variety of attractive desserts can be made with gelatine4 ,they are inexpensive1 require no skill1 and the work is accomplished in a very few minutes4 ,sidenote3 ,points to observe in making jellies4 ,points to ,observe in ,making ,jellies4--,have jellies perfectly transparent and brilliant4 ,use the right proportions1 so the jelly will hold its form1 but not be too solid4 ,mold the jelly carefully4 ,sidenote3 ,dissolving4 ,dissolving4--,gelatine should be soaked in cold water in a cold place 7one cupful of water to a box of gelatine7 for one or more hours2 then dissolved in a little hot water1 or added to the hot mixture4 ,treated in this way it will dissolve quickly1 and be free from taste or smell4 ,if soaked in warm water in a warm place it will have a disagreeable taste and odor1 requiring much flavoring to overcome4 ,it does not need cooking4 ,if the jelly is not sufficiently firm1 add more gelatine2 boiling down will not effect the purpose4 ,sidenote3 ,proportions4 ,proportions4--,observe the quantity of gelatine stated on the box1 as some brands do not contain two ounces4 ,two ounces will take one and three quarter quarts of liquid1 including that used for soaking and flavoring4 ,the directions given on the boxes usually give the proportion of one ounce to a quart of liquid1 but this will not insure a jelly which will stand firm1 and it is safer to use less liquid4 ,for this amount two cupfuls of sugar will give about the right sweetening1 but must be modified to suit the flavoring used4 ,in summer1 or if the jelly will have to stand any length of time after it is unmolded1 it is better to use but one and one half quarts of liquid to two ounces of gelatine4 ,sidenote3 ,to clear jelly4 ,clarifying4--,most of the brands of gelatine are already clarified1 and need only to be passed through a sieve to remove the lemon-zest and any particles of gelatine that may not have dissolved4 ,any fruit juices used should be passed through a filter-paper 7see below7 before being added to the jelly3 straining the jelly once or twice through a felt or flannel will usually give perfectly limpid and beautiful jelly4 ,when1 however1 they need to be clarified1 or a particularly brilliant jelly is required1 stir into the mixture when it is cool the whites of two eggs1 well broken but not too much frothed2 add also the shells2 stir it over the fire until it boils2 let it simmer a few minutes and strain it1 twice if necessary1 through a bag1 without pressure4 ,a piece of flannel laid over a sieve or strainer may be substituted for a bag if more convenient4 ,sidenote3 ,molding for fancy jellies4 ,molding for ,fancy ,jellies4--,place the mold in a bowl containing cracked ice2 the jelly will then quickly harden1 and the process of fancy molding not be tedious4 ,have the mold perfectly even1 so the jelly will stand firm and straight when unmolded2 also1 do not move the mold while filling1 as jarring or shaking is likely to separate the layers and cause them to fall apart4 ,have the jelly mixture cold1 but not ready to set1 or it will take in bubbles of air and cloud the jelly4 ,pour in one layer at a time and let it harden before adding the next4 ,do not1 however1 let it become too firm or gather moisture1 or it will not unite1 and also will be clouded4 7,see picture facing page #chf47 ,sidenote3 ,to mold with fruit or flowers4 ,to suspend a bunch of grapes in the center of a form1 first pour into the mold a layer of jelly one half inch deep2 let it harden2 then place on it1 and arrange in good shape the bunch of grapes1 leaving one half inch or more space around the sides2 pour in another half inch of jelly1 but not enough to float the grapes2 when that has set1 cut with scissors the grape stem in many places1 so it will fall apart when served2 then fill the mold with jelly4 ,any fruits1 or flowers1 can be put in in the same way1 care being used to add at first only just enough jelly to fix the ornament2 otherwise it will float out of place4 ,plain jellies are more transparent when molded in forms having a cylindrical tube in the center1 like cake-tins4 ,the space left can be filled with whipped cream or with fruits1 which gives a pretty effect4 7,see picture47 ,illustration3 ,,jelly ,,with ,a ,,rose ,,molded ,,in ,,it ,,and ,,garnished ,,with ,,roses4 7,,see ,,page #dad47 ,illustration3 ,,jelly ,,with ,a ,,bunch ,,of ,,grapes ,,molded ,,in ,,it4 7,,see ,,page #dad47 ,sidenote3 ,double molding4 ,double ,molding 7see page #cbe7 can be used with good effect in sweet jellies in combination with whipped jelly1 ,bavarian creams1 fruit jellies1 etc4 ,sidenote3 ,unmolding4 ,unmolding4--,see page #cbd4 ,sidenote3 ,serving4 ,serving4--,jellies are improved by serving with them whipped cream1 custard1 or puree of fruits4 ,it may be poured around1 not over1 the jelly on the same dish4 ,when a sauce is not used1 have a lace paper under the jelly4 ,jelly is more attractive when served on a flat glass dish4 ,sidenote3 ,fruit jellies4 ,for fruit jellies it is well to use a china mold1 or else coat the tin one with clear jelly 7see page #cbc71 as tin is likely to discolor it4 ,sidenote3 ,to clarify fruit juices4 ,to ,clarify ,fruit ,juices4--,pass the fruit juice through filter-paper laid in a funnel4 ,if filter-paper is not at hand1 soak unsized paper to a pulp4 ,wash it in several waters2 press it dry2 and spread it on a small sieve or in a funnel1 and drain the juice through it4 ,if orange1 lemon1 or other fruit juices are first clarified1 it will often obviate the necessity of straining the jelly4 7,see illustration facing page #chh47 ,,wine ,,jelly #a_/b box1 or #a ounce1 of gelatine4 #a_/b cupful of cold water4 #b cupfuls of boiling water4 #a cupful of sugar4 ,juice of #a lemon4 #c_/d cupful of sherry1 or #c parts sherry1 #a part brandy4 ,soak the gelatine in one half cupful of cold water for one hour or more4 ,put the boiling water1 the sugar1 and a few thin slices of lemon-peel in a saucepan on the fire4 ,when the sugar is dissolved1 add the soaked gelatine1 and stir until that also is dissolved2 then remove1 and when it is partly cooled add the lemon-juice and the wine4 ,strain it through a felt or flannel1 and turn it into the mold4 ,if the jelly has to be clarified do it before adding the wine4 ,any wine or liqueur can be used for flavoring4 ,this will make one quart of jelly4 ,,lemon ,,jelly #a_/b box1 or #a ounce1 of gelatine4 #a_/b cupful of cold water4 #b cupfuls of boiling water4 #a cupful of sugar4 ,juice of #c lemons1 filtered4 ,thin slices of lemon-rind4 ,put together as directed for wine jelly4 ,,orange ,,jelly #a_/b box1 or #a ounce1 of gelatine4 #a_/b cupful of cold water4 #a cupful of boiling water4 ,juice of #a lemon4 #a cupful of sugar4 #b cupfuls of orange-juice1 filtered4 ,combine the same as directed for wine jelly4 ,a stronger flavor and color of orange can be obtained by soaking with the gelatine the grated yellow rind of one or two bright-skinned oranges4 ,in this case the juice need not be filtered1 for the mixture will have to be passed through flannel4 ,putting it through several times gives a clearer and more brilliant jelly4 ,,coffee ,,jelly ,use the receipt given for wine jelly1 using three quarters of a cupful of strong filtered coffee instead of wine1 and omitting the lemon2 mold in a ring1 and fill the center with whipped cream2 or1 if this is not convenient1 use any mold1 and serve with it sweetened milk4 ,,champagne ,,jelly #a_/b box of ,cox's gelatine soaked in #a_/b cupful of cold water4 #a cupful of boiling water4 #a cupful of sugar4 #a teaspoonful of lemon-juice1 filtered4 #a cupful of champagne4 ,combine the same as wine jelly1 and do not add the champagne until the jelly is cold4 ,this will give one and a half pints of jelly4 ,it is very clear and transparent1 and well suited to fancy molding4 ,,champagne ,,jelly ,,with ,,flowers ,place on ice a broad round mold 7a basin will serve the purpose72 arrange1 on a very thin layer of jelly1 some pink rose petals in rosette form1 or to simulate an open rose2 add carefully a very little jelly with a spoon to set the decoration2 when it has hardened1 add a very little more1 and so continue to do until the petals are half enveloped2 then place in right position some angelica cut in diamond shaped pieces to simulate leaves2 add a little jelly at a time until the mold is full4 ,the petals will be bent out of shape if the jelly is not added very slowly4 ,when unmolded place around it some green rose-leaves and a few loose pink rose-petals4 ,a little rose-water or essence should be used with the champagne to flavor the jelly4 ,violets and angelica can be used in the same way1 or a spray of roses with leaves can be put in a deeper mold1 and when secured in position the stems cut the same as directed for molding grapes4 ,when flowers are used they must be very fresh4 ,illustration3 ,,pink ,,jelly ,,garnished ,,with ,,pink ,,carnations4 ,,whipped ,,jelly ,,or ,,snow ,,pudding ,make a wine or lemon jelly 7page #dae74 ,place it in a bowl on ice2 when it is cold1 but before it begins to harden1 beat it with a ,dover beater until it becomes white and a mass of froth4 ,turn it into a mold to harden4 ,serve with it a sauce made of boiled custard1 or any preserve that will go well with the flavoring1 or a compote of orange or any fruit4 ,,jellies ,,with ,,fruits 7,macedoine7 ,berries or any fresh fruits1 peeled and quartered1 may be placed in layers1 or irregularly through the entire mold1 or a mixture of fruits may be used in the same way1 when it is called a macedoine4 ,the jelly may be clear or whipped4 ,strawberries1 raspberries1 currants 7red and white71 cherries1 peaches1 plums1 pears1 apricots1 and pineapples are suitable for this use4 ,preserved or canned fruits well drained may also be used4 ,candied fruits are especially good1 but should be cut into pieces1 and softened in maraschino4 ,jellies to be used with fruits are best flavored with kirsch or maraschino4 ,,russian ,,jellies ,for these double molds are used 7see page #chf74 ,no4 #a4 ,make the outside layer of any transparent jelly4 ,when hard remove the inner mold and fill the space with the same jelly whipped until foamy4 ,no4 #b4 ,the outside a transparent jelly1 the inside one of different flavor and color1 such as champagne and maraschino colored pink1 orange and strawberry1 lemon and coffee4 ,no4 #c4 ,the outside champagne jelly1 the inside whipped jelly mixed with macedoine of fruits4 ,no4 #d4 ,the outside wine or maraschino jelly1 the filling pain de fraises 7see page #dai74 ,no4 #e4 ,the outside fruits in clear jelly1 the inside ,bavarian cream4 ,no4 #f4 ,maraschino jelly1 center ,bavarian cream mixed with crushed peaches or with apricot jam4 ,,ribbon ,,jelly ,make a plain jelly2 divide it into three parts2 flavor one with maraschino2 the second with strawberry-juice1 and deepen the color with a little carmine 7see page #cib72 the third with orange1 noyau1 or any other flavor1 and whip it until foamy4 ,put it into mold in layers1 beginning with the lightest4 ,,italian ,,jelly ,make a plain blanc-mange 7see page #cii74 ,let it set in a layer one half inch thick2 cut it into small circles1 diamonds1 or fancy shapes with cutters4 ,arrange these pieces in some design around or inside a mold of transparent jelly 7see molding jellies1 page #cbd74 ,the blanc-mange may be colored pink1 green1 or yellow1 and gives a very pretty effect4 ,,dantzic ,,jelly ,this is a very clear1 ornamental jelly1 the gold-leaf giving it the appearance of ,venetian glass1 and is good in individual molds to serve with ices4 ,use the receipt for wine jelly1 omitting the wine and making the amount of liquid right by using more water2 clarify or strain it several times to make it very brilliant2 when it is cold add two tablespoonfuls each of eau de vie de ,dantzic 7see page #cij7 and brandy4 ,,what ,,to ,,do ,,with ,,jelly ,,left ,,over ,add a little lemon-juice1 and beat the jelly until it becomes entirely white1 which will take some time2 turn it again into a mold to set4 ,if there is not enough jelly for this1 cut the jelly into fine dice with a knife as directed for cutting aspic on page #cbc1 and beat into it lightly an equal quantity of meringue4 ,this should be prepared in a cold place4 ,,pains ,,aux ,,fruits1 ,,or ,,jellied ,,fruits ,,pain ,,de ,,fraises 7,,strawberries7 ,crush the berries to a pulp2 sweeten to taste1 and add a little flavoring1 either orange and lemon juice1 maraschino or ,curacao4 ,to a pint of the pulp add a half box1 or one ounce1 of ,cooper's gelatine1 which has soaked an hour in one half cupful of cold water1 and then been dissolved in one half cupful of hot water4 ,stir until it begins to set2 then turn it into a china mold to harden4 ,the mold may be ornamented with blanched almonds split in two1 and arranged in star shapes4 ,when a tin mold is used for fruits1 it is well to coat it first with plain jelly 7see page #cbc71 as tin sometimes discolors fruit juices4 ,a little carmine may be used to heighten the color of red fruits4 ,raspberries1 cherries1 peaches1 apricots1 plums1 pineapples1 or oranges can be used in the same way4 ,this gives a very good dessert with little trouble4 ,serve with cream4 ,,supreme ,,of ,,strawberries ,make a pain de fraises2 place it on the outside of a double mold 7see page #cbe71 and fill the center space with whole berries1 or with any other fruit or mixture of fruits1 such as white grapes and oranges1 etc4 ,serve it very cold with whipped cream4 ,,pain ,,de ,,riz ,,aux ,,fruits 7,,rice ,,with ,,fruits7 ,make a rice ,bavarian 7see page #djb72 mix with it a few chopped blanched almonds4 ,put it in a cylindrical mold in layers with pain de fraises 7strawberries7 or raspberries1 keeping the red layer thinner than the white one2 or mold it in a double mold1 using the jellied fruit for the center or for the outside4 ,,pain ,,de ,,riz ,a ,,la ,,princesse ,decorate a mold with candied cherries and angelica2 line it with rice ,bavarian1 and fill the center with fresh or canned pineapple chopped and jellied4 ,the jelly may be clear or whipped or mixed with whipped cream4 ,,pain ,d',,oranges 7,,oranges7 ,take off the peel and divide into sections eight to ten oranges2 run a knife between the skin and pulp and remove it carefully4 ,place the bare but unbroken pulp on a sieve to drain2 roll each piece in powdered sugar1 and lay them overlapping in a ring around a cylindrical mold2 fix and cover them with clear jelly flavored with kirsch or maraschino4 ,arrange them in the same way around the outside of a double mold4 ,fill the center with orange ,bavarian1 using the juice drained from the pieces to flavor the ,bavarian4 ,serve it with orange quarter cakes 7see page #dgh7 around the dish4 ,,pain ,,de ,,peches 7,,peaches7 ,no4 #a4 ,make a jelly of peaches the same as rule given above for strawberries2 color it with a little carmine1 giving it a delicate pink shade2 garnish the mold with blanched almonds and angelica1 and fill it with the jellied peach-pulp4 ,no4 #b4 ,cut peaches in quarters or halves1 and arrange them in a double mold with blanched almonds to look like the pits2 fill the center with peach ,bavarian4 ,,pain ,,de ,,marrons 7,,chestnuts7 ,make a puree of boiled chestnuts2 sweeten and flavor with vanilla2 add to one pint of puree one ounce of dissolved gelatine2 when beginning to set add a few spoonfuls of whipped cream2 cover a mold with thin coating of jelly 7see page #cbc71 and fill outside of double mold with very brown chocolate ,bavarian 7see page #dja72 fill the center with the jellied chestnuts4 ,,chapter ,,xix ,,hot ,,desserts ,,souffles ,sidenote3 ,general remarks4 ,the preparation of souffles is exceedingly simple1 the only difficulty being in serving them soon enough1 as they fall very quickly when removed from the heat4 ,they must go directly from the oven to the table1 and if the dining-room is far removed from the kitchen the souffle should be covered with a hot pan until it reaches the door4 ,the plain omelet souffle is the most difficult4 ,those made with a cooked foundation do not fall as quickly1 but they also must be served at once4 ,in order to insure the condition upon which the whole success of the dish depends1 it is better to keep the table waiting1 rather than suffer the result of the omelet being cooked too soon4 ,have everything ready before beginning to make a souffle1 and see that the oven is right4 ,in adding the beaten whites fold them in1 that is1 lift the mixture from the bottom1 and use care not to break it down by too much mixing4 ,,omelet ,,souffle ,whites of #f eggs4 ,yolks of #c eggs4 ,grated zest of #a_/b lemon4 #c rounded tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar1 sifted4 #a tablespoonful of lemon-juice4 ,whip the whites of the eggs1 with a pinch of salt added to them1 to a very dry stiff froth4 ,beat to a cream the yolks and the sugar1 then add the lemon4 ,fold in the beaten whites lightly 7do not stir7 and turn the mixture into a slightly oiled pudding-dish4 ,if preferred1 turn a part of it onto a flat dish1 and with a knife shape it into a mound with a depression in the center4 ,put the rest into a pastry-bag1 and press it out through a large tube1 into lines and dots over the mound2 sprinkle it with sugar and bake it in a very hot oven eight to ten minutes4 ,serve at once in the same dish in which it is baked 7see souffles above74 ,the flavor may be vanilla1 or orange if preferred4 ,,vanilla ,,souffle #a cupful of milk4 #b tablespoonfuls of flour4 #c tablespoonfuls of sugar4 #b tablespoonfuls of butter4 #a_/d teaspoonful of salt4 #a teaspoonful of vanilla4 #d eggs4 ,put the milk into a double boiler with the salt2 when it is scalded add the butter and flour1 which have been rubbed together4 ,stir for ten minutes to cook the flour and form a smooth paste2 then turn it onto the yolks of the eggs1 which1 with the sugar added1 have been beaten to a cream4 ,mix thoroughly1 flavor1 and set away to cool2 rub a little butter over the top1 so that no crust will form4 ,just before time to serve1 fold into it lightly the whites of the eggs1 which have been beaten to a stiff froth4 ,turn it into a buttered pudding-dish and bake in a moderate oven for thirty to forty minutes2 or1 put the mixture into buttered paper cases1 filling them one half full1 and bake ten to fifteen minutes4 ,serve with the souffle foamy sauce 7page #dde74 ,this souffle may be varied by using different flavors2 also by putting a layer of crushed fruit in the bottom of the dish1 or by mixing a half cupful of fruit-pulp with the paste before the whites are added4 ,in this case the whites of two more eggs will be needed to give sufficient lightness4 ,serve at once after it is taken from the oven4 ,,chocolate ,,souffle #c ounces of chocolate4 #a heaping tablespoonful of sugar4#dbc-99 #b rounded tablespoonfuls of flour4 #a_/b cupful of milk4 ,yolks of #c eggs4 ,whites of #d eggs4 #a rounded tablespoonful of butter4 ,melt the butter in a small saucepan2 stir into it the flour and let it cook a minute1 but not brown1 then add slowly the milk and stir until smooth and a little thickened2 remove it from the fire and turn it slowly onto the yolks and sugar1 which have been beaten to a cream2 mix thoroughly and add the melted chocolate 7see page #chh72 stir for a few minutes1 then set it away to cool2 rub a little butter over the top so a crust will not form4 ,when ready to serve1 stir the mixture well to make it smooth and fold into it lightly the whites of the eggs1 which have been whipped until very dry and firm4 ,turn the mixture into a buttered tin1 filling it two thirds full4 ,have the tin lined with a strip of greased paper which rises above the sides to confine the souffle as it rises4 ,place the tin in a deep saucepan containing enough hot water to cover one half the tin4 ,cover the saucepan and place it where the water will simmer for thirty minutes1 keeping it covered all the time4 ,place the tin on a very hot dish and serve at once4 ,cover the top with a hot tin until it reaches the dining-room if it has to be carried far4 ,,footnotes3 #dbc-99 ,if unsweetened chocolate is used1 add about three more tablespoonfuls of sugar or to taste1 and a teaspoonful of vanilla4 ,,prune ,,souffle #a_/b pound of prunes4 #c tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar4 #d eggs4 #a small teaspoonful of vanilla4 ,beat the yolks of the eggs and the sugar to a cream1 add the vanilla1 and mix them with the prunes1 the prunes having been stewed1 drained1 the stones removed1 and each prune cut into four pieces4 ,when ready to serve fold in lightly the whites of the eggs1 which have been whipped to a stiff froth1 a dash of salt having been added to the whites before whipping them4 ,turn it into a pudding-dish and bake in a moderate oven for twenty minutes4 ,serve it as soon as it is taken from the oven4 ,a few chopped almonds1 or meats from the prune-pits1 may be added to the mixture before the whites are put in if desired4 ,,apple ,,souffle ,boil some peeled and cored apples until tender2 press them through a colander2 season to taste with butter1 sugar1 and vanilla4 ,place the puree in a granite-ware saucepan and let it cook until quite dry and firm4 ,to one and one quarter cupfuls of the hot reduced apple puree add the whites of four eggs1 whipped very stiff and sweetened with three tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar4 ,mix the puree and meringue lightly and quickly together and turn it into a pudding-dish2 smooth the top into a mound shape2 sprinkle with sugar and bake in a slow oven twenty to twenty-five minutes4 ,this souffle does not fall4 ,serve with a hard1 a plain pudding1 or an apricot sauce4 ,,farina ,,pudding ,this is a very wholesome1 delicate pudding1 and is especially recommended4 ,the receipt gives an amount sufficient for six people4 #b cupfuls of milk 7#a pint74 #d tablespoonfuls of farina4 #c tablespoonfuls of sugar4 #c eggs4 ,grated rind of #a_/b lemon4 ,put the milk and lemon-zest into a double boiler2 when it reaches the boiling-point stir in the farina and cook for five minutes2 then remove from the fire and turn it onto the yolks and sugar1 which have been beaten together until light2 stir all the time4 ,let it become cool but not stiff2 when ready to bake it1 fold in lightly the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth1 a dash of salt added to them before beating4 ,turn it into a pudding-dish and place the dish in a pan containing enough hot water to half cover it4 ,bake it in a moderately hot oven for twenty-five minutes4 ,serve at once1 or1 like other souffles1 it will fall4 ,serve with it a sabayon ,no4 #b1 or a meringue sauce 7pages #ddf and #ddh74 ,,sweet ,,omelets ,these desserts are quickly made1 are always liked1 and serve well in emergencies4 ,,orange ,,omelet #c eggs4 #c tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar4 #a orange1 using the grated rind and #c tablespoonfuls of juice4 ,beat the yolks of the eggs with the sugar to a cream2 add the grated zest of the rind and the orange juice2 then fold in lightly the beaten whites of the eggs4 ,have a clean1 smooth omelet or frying-pan2 put in a teaspoonful of butter1 rubbing it around the sides as well as bottom of the pan4 ,when the butter bubbles1 turn in the omelet mixture and spread it evenly4 ,do not shake the pan4 ,let it cook until it is a delicate brown and seems cooked through1 but not hard4 ,fold the edges over a little and turn it onto a flat hot dish2 sprinkle it plentifully with powdered sugar2 heat the poker red hot and lay it on the omelet four times1 leaving crossed burnt lines in the form of a star4 ,this ornaments the top and also gives a caramel flavor to the sugar4 ,,jam ,,omelet ,make a ,french omelet as directed on page #bfd1 using four to six eggs2 omit the pepper and add a little powdered sugar4 ,when the omelet is ready to turn1 place in the center two tablespoonfuls of any jam 7apricot is particularly good7 and fold4 ,turn the omelet onto a hot dish and sprinkle it with sugar4 ,,rum ,,omelet ,make either a ,french omelet1 or a beaten omelet1 using a little sugar and omitting the pepper4 ,place the dish holding the omelet on a second and larger dish to prevent accident from fire4 ,when ready to place on the table pour over the omelet a few spoonfuls of rum or brandy and light it4 ,it is better not to touch the match to it until it is on the table4 ,,sweet ,,pancakes #c eggs4 #a cupful of milk4 #a_/b teaspoonful of salt4 #a teaspoonful of sugar4 #a_/b cupful of flour4 #a_/b tablespoonful of oil4 ,beat the yolks and whites of the eggs separately2 mix them together and add the salt1 sugar1 and one half the milk2 stir in the flour1 making a smooth paste2 then add the rest of the milk1 and lastly the oil2 beat well and let it stand an hour or more before using4 ,bake on a hot griddle in large or small cakes as desired2 spread each cake with butter and a little jam or jelly1 then roll them1 sprinkle with sugar1 and serve at once4 ,any pancake batter can be used4 ,those made of rice or hominy are good4 ,the batter can be made of a consistency for thick or thin cakes by using more or less milk4 ,currant or tart jelly is better to use than a sweet preserve4 ,,fritters ,with fritter batter a number of good desserts are made1 which1 if properly fried1 will be entirely free from grease1 and perfectly wholesome4 ,,fritter ,,batter #b eggs4 #a tablespoonful of oil4 #a cupful of flour4 #a_/b cupful of cold water4 #a saltspoonful of salt4 ,if for sweet fritters1 #a teaspoonful of sugar and #a tablespoonful of brandy4 ,for clam or oyster fritters use one tablespoonful of lemon juice or vinegar1 salt and pepper to taste1 and the liquor of the clams or oysters instead of water4 ,stir the salt into the egg-yolks2 add slowly the oil1 then the brandy and the sugar2 the brandy may be omitted if desired1 and if so1 use two tablespoonfuls of oil instead of one4 ,when well mixed stir in slowly the flour1 and then the water1 a little at a time4 ,beat it well and set it aside for two hours 7it is better to let it stand longer72 when ready to use1 stir in the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth4 ,the batter should be very thick and of the consistency to coat completely the article it is intended to cover4 ,if not soft enough add the white of another egg4 ,,apple ,,fritters ,cut firm apples crosswise into slices one quarter of an inch thick4 ,with a biscuit-cutter stamp them into circles of uniform size2 sprinkle them with orange sugar 7see page #cia71 and moisten them with brandy4 ,let them stand to soak for ten minutes1 then dry one or two at a time on a napkin2 dip them in batter1 using care to have them completely coated1 and drop them into hot fat 7see frying1 page #gb74 ,fry to an amber color2 lift them out on a skimmer and dry on paper in an open oven until all are fried2 then roll them in sugar and serve on a folded napkin1 the slices overlapping4 ,fry only two at a time1 so they can be kept well apart4 ,serve with a sauce flavored with brandy or sherry4 ,,peach ,,or ,,apricot ,,fritters ,cut the fruit in half2 sprinkle with sugar moistened with maraschino1 and roll them in powdered macaroons before dipping them in the batter4 ,fry as directed above4 ,well-drained canned fruit may also be used for fritters4 ,,orange ,,fritters ,cut the oranges in quarters2 take out the seeds and run a knife between the pulp and peel1 freeing the orange and leaving it raw4 ,roll them in powdered sugar and dip in batter before the sugar has time to dissolve2 fry as directed for apple fritters4 ,,fritters ,,made ,,of ,,biscuit ,,dough ,make a biscuit dough as given on page #ceb2 turn it on a floured board and let it rise until light1 then roll it one eighth of an inch thick and cut it into circles with a fluted patty-cutter4 ,put a teaspoonful of jam in the center of a circle4 ,wet the edges and cover with a second circle2 press the edges lightly together and fry in hot fat4 ,,balloons ,put a cupful of water in a saucepan2 when it boils add one tablespoonful of butter2 when the butter is melted add one cupful of flour and beat it with a fork or wire whip until it is smooth and leaves the sides of the pan4 ,remove from the fire and add three eggs1 one at a time1 beating vigorously each one before adding the next4 ,let it stand until cold4 ,when ready to serve1 drop a spoonful at a time into moderately hot fat and fry for about #ae minutes4 ,take out on a skimmer and dry on brown paper4 ,the batter will puff into hollow balls4 ,if the fat is very hot it will crisp the outside too soon and prevent the balls from puffing4 ,fry only a few at a time1 as they must be kept separated4 ,sprinkle with powdered sugar and pile on a folded napkin4 ,serve with lemon sauce made as follows4 ,lemon sauce3 ,strain the juice of one and a half lemons2 add one cupful of powdered sugar1 then a half cupful of boiling water4 ,,batter ,,pudding #a cupful of milk4 #a heaping tablespoonful of butter4 #a_/b cupful of flour4 #c eggs4 ,put the milk in a double boiler2 when hot add the butter4 ,let the milk boil2 then add the flour1 and beat it hard until it leaves the sides of the pan2 then remove from the fire and stir in gradually the eggs1 which have been well beaten1 the yolks and whites together1 and a dash of salt4 ,continue to beat the batter until it is no longer stringy4 ,turn it into a warm greased pudding-dish1 and bake in a moderate oven thirty to thirty-five minutes4 ,it should puff up like a cream cake1 and have a thick crust4 ,serve as soon as it is taken from the oven1 or it will fall4 ,the batter may stand some time before baking if convenient4 ,it may be baked in gem-pans fifteen to twenty minutes if preferred4 ,serve with plain pudding or hard sauce4 ,,desserts ,,made ,,of ,,apples ,,snow ,,apple ,,pudding ,fill a pudding-dish half full of apple puree or sauce1 well seasoned with butter1 sugar1 and nutmeg4 ,pour over it a batter made of one and a half cupfuls of flour mixed with two heaping teaspoonfuls of baking-powder1 one half teaspoonful of salt1 and a tablespoonful of chopped suet or of lard4 ,moisten it with about three quarters of a cupful of milk1 or enough to make a thick batter4 ,it should not be as stiff as for biscuits4 ,cook in a steamer about three quarters of an hour1 and serve at once with a hard1 foamy1 sabayon1 or any other sauce4 ,the top will be very light and white4 ,this quantity is enough to serve six people4 ,,brown ,,betty ,in a quart pudding-dish arrange alternate layers of sliced apples and bread-crumbs2 season each layer with bits of butter1 a little sugar1 and a pinch each of ground cinnamon1 cloves1 and allspice4 ,when the dish is full pour over it a half cupful each of molasses and water mixed2 cover the top with crumbs4 ,place the dish in a pan containing hot water1 and bake for three quarters of an hour1 or until the apples are soft4 ,serve with cream or with any sauce4 ,raisins or chopped almonds improve the pudding4 ,,baked ,,apple ,,dumplings ,make a short pie-crust2 roll it thin and cut it into squares large enough to cover an apple4 ,select apples of the same size2 pare them2 remove the core with a corer1 and fill the space with sugar1 butter1 a little ground cinnamon1 and nutmeg4 ,place an apple in the center of each square of pie-crust2 wet the edges with white of egg and fold together1 the points meeting on the top2 give the edges a pinch and turn1 making them fluted4 ,bake in a moderate oven about forty minutes1 or until the apples are tender1 but not until they have lost their form4 ,if preferred1 the crust may be folded under the apple1 leaving it round4 ,it must be well joined1 so the juices will not escape4 ,brush the top with egg1 and ten minutes before removing from the oven dust them with a little sugar to give them a glaze4 ,serve with hard sauce4 ,illustration3 ,,baked ,,apple ,,dumplings4 7,,see ,,page #dbi47 ,,apple ,,charlotte ,cut bread into slices one quarter inch thick2 then into strips one and a half inches wide1 and as long as the height of the mold to be used2 cut one piece to fit the top of mold1 then divide it into five or six pieces4 ,butter the mold2 dip the slices of bread into melted butter1 and arrange them on the bottom and around the sides of the mold1 fitting closely together or overlapping4 ,fill the center entirely full with apple sauce made of tart apples stewed until tender1 then broken into coarse pieces1 drained1 and seasoned with butter and sugar4 ,a little apricot jam can be put in the center if desired2 chopped almonds also may be added4 ,cover the top with bread1 and bake in a hot oven about thirty minutes4 ,the bread should be an amber color like toast4 ,turn it carefully onto a flat dish4 ,serve with a hard sauce or any other sauce preferred4 ,,apples ,,with ,,rice1 ,no4 #a ,boil half a cupful of rice with a saltspoonful of salt in milk until tender2 sweeten it to taste2 drain it if the milk is not all absorbed2 press it into a basin2 smooth it over the top2 when it has cooled enough to hold the form1 turn it onto a flat dish4 ,this will be a socle1 and should be about one and a half to two inches high4 ,pare and core as many apples as will stand on the top of the socle2 boil them slowly until tender in sugar and water2 remove them before they lose shape4 ,boil the sugar and water down to a thick syrup4 ,arrange the apples on the top of the rice1 and pour over them a little of the thickened syrup2 then fill the center of each apple with jam2 place a candied cherry on each one1 and a pointed piece of angelica between each apple4 ,the syrup should give enough sauce1 but ,richelieu sauce is recommended instead4 ,serve hot or cold4 ,illustration3 ,,stewed ,,apples ,,on ,a ,,rice ,,socle--,,garnished ,,with ,,candied ,,cherries ,,and ,,angelica4 7,,see ,,page #dcj47 ,,apples ,,with ,,rice1 ,no4 #b ,boil the rice as above2 sweeten it and flavor it with a few drops of orange-flower water1 almond1 or other essence1 and mix into it a few chopped blanched almonds4 ,turn it onto a flat dish1 and press it into a mound or cone4 ,cut some apples of uniform size in halves1 cutting from the stem to the blossom2 remove the core with a vegetable scoop 7see illustration71 and pare off the skin carefully2 stew the apples slowly until tender1 but still firm enough to hold their shape2 before removing them add a few drops of carmine to the water1 and let them stand until they have become a delicate pink2 then drain and place them evenly and upright against the form of rice4 ,put some meringue in a pastry-bag1 and press it in lines or dots around the apples and over the top of the rice1 making it as ornamental as desired4 ,dust it with sugar1 and place for one minute in the oven to slightly color the meringue1 but not long enough to dry the surface of the apples4 ,serve with whipped cream1 with fruit sauce1 ,richelieu sauce1 or wine sauce4 ,whipped cream may be substituted for the meringue1 in which case place the apples overlapping one another around the rice in wreath shape2 flatten the top of the rice1 and pile the whipped cream on it4 ,another form may be made by putting the rice in a border-mold to shape it1 filling the center of the rice with a well-seasoned apple puree1 and finishing as directed above4 ,illustration3 ,,stewed ,,apples ,,cut ,,in ,,halves ,,and ,,arranged ,,around ,a ,,rice ,,socle--,,garnished ,,with ,,meringue4 7,,see ,,page #dca47 ,,apples ,,with ,,corn-,,starch 7,felice7 ,pare and core as many apples as will be used1 having them of uniform size4 ,to a quart of water add one half cupful of sugar and the juice of half a lemon2 boil the apples in this until tender1 but remove them before they lose shape2 drain and place them in regular order on the dish in which they are to be served4 ,boil the water down one half2 then stir into it one tablespoonful of corn-starch or arrowroot moistened in a little water2 let it cook until the starch is clear2 remove from the fire2 flavor with lemon1 almond1 kirsch1 or anything preferred2 let it stiffen a little2 then pour it over the apples2 sprinkle with sugar and place in the oven a moment to brown1 or1 omitting the browning1 sprinkle them with green and pink sugar 7see page #cic71 or stick them full of split almonds4 ,,flaming ,,apples ,pare and core the apples2 stew them in sugar and water until tender1 but still firm enough to hold their shape4 ,remove them carefully to the serving-dish2 fill the centers with apricot or raspberry jam2 boil down the liquor to a thick syrup and pour it over the apples2 just before serving pour over them a few spoonfuls of rum or brandy1 and light it with a taper after it is on the table4 ,serve with fancy cakes4 ,,baked ,,apples 7,,for ,,breakfast7 ,select apples of equal size2 wash and polish them2 remove the core4 ,place them in a baking-tin a little distance apart1 and put a little water in the bottom of the pan4 ,bake in a moderate oven about thirty minutes2 baste frequently1 so they will not burn or blacken4 ,serve with sugar and cream4 ,,baked ,,apples 7,,for ,,luncheon7 ,pare and core the apples2 fill the centers with butter and sugar4 ,let them bake in a pan with a little water until tender1 but still in good shape2 baste frequently1 letting them become only slightly colored4 ,after removing from the oven sprinkle them with granulated sugar and a little powdered cinnamon or nutmeg4 ,,tapioca ,,pudding ,arrange evenly in a buttered dish six apples which have been pared and cored4 ,any other fruit may be used--canned peaches are good4 ,soak a cupful of tapioca in hot water for an hour or more2 sweeten and flavor it to taste and pour it over the fruit4 ,bake in a moderate oven for an hour4 ,illustration3 ,,pudding ,,molds4 ,,rice ,,puddings ,,plain ,,rice ,,pudding ,no4 #a ,in a pudding-dish holding a quart1 put two heaping tablespoonfuls of well-washed rice2 fill the dish with milk1 and add a half teaspoonful of salt4 ,let it cook in the oven for half an hour1 stirring it two or three times4 ,take it out and add two tablespoonfuls of sugar and a scant teaspoonful of vanilla2 also a half cupful of stoned raisins if desired4 ,grate nutmeg over the top2 return the dish to the oven and cook slowly for two hours or more2 as the milk boils down1 lift the skin at the side and add more hot milk4 ,the pudding should be creamy1 and this is attained by slow cooking1 and by using plenty of milk4 ,,rice ,,pudding ,no4 #b ,scald a pint and a half of milk2 add a tablespoonful of cornstarch which has been moistened with a little of the cold milk2 cook it for a few minutes2 then remove it from the fire and stir in three cupfuls of boiled rice1 a cupful or more of sugar to taste1 and the beaten yolks of two eggs4 ,return it to the fire and cook it until thickened1 stirring constantly but carefully4 ,turn it into a dish1 cover the top with meringue1 and place it in the oven for a few minutes to brown4 ,,rice ,,and ,,raisins ,mix with two cupfuls of boiled rice a half or three quarters cupful of raisins4 ,the rice should be boiled as directed on page #bbb1 and the raisins should be soaked in hot water until plump1 and the seeds removed4 ,press the mixture into a bowl to give it shape1 and turn it onto a flat dish4 ,grate nutmeg over the top4 ,serve with sweetened milk a little flavored with vanilla or almond1 or only nutmeg4 ,for ,lemon ,rice ,pudding1 see page #bdb4 ,for ,rice and ,orange ,marmalade ,pudding1 see page #bdb4 ,,bread ,,puddings ,,bread ,,pudding ,no4 #a #b cupfuls of milk4 #a cupful of bread-crumbs or broken bread4 #a tablespoonful of sugar4 #b egg-yolks4 #a egg-white4 #a_/b teaspoonful of vanilla4 #a saltspoonful of salt4 ,soak the bread in the milk until softened2 then beat it until smooth and add the rest of the ingredients excepting the white of egg4 ,turn it into a pudding-dish1 place this in a pan of hot water1 and bake in a slow oven fifteen to twenty minutes1 or only long enough to set the custard without its separating4 ,cover the top with a layer of jam or with tart jelly1 and place in the center a ball of meringue made with the white of one egg2 dust with sugar1 place in the oven a moment to brown the meringue1 and then put a piece of jelly on the top of the meringue4 ,serve hot or cold4 ,the jelly and meringue answers as a sauce4 ,,bread ,,and ,,butter ,,pudding ,cut stale bread into thin slices2 remove the crusts1 dip them in melted butter1 and arrange them in a small bread or square cake-tin in even layers1 alternating with layers of stoned raisins4 ,when the mold is full1 pour over it a mixture made of one pint of milk1 the yolks of two eggs1 and two tablespoonfuls of sugar4 ,use only as much as the bread will absorb4 ,bake in a moderate oven twenty to thirty minutes4 ,turn it onto a flat dish and serve with it a plain pudding sauce4 ,the bread should be dry and crisp and hold the form of the mold4 ,,bread ,,tarts ,cut bread into slices a quarter of an inch thick1 then with a biscuit-cutter about three inches in diameter stamp it into circles4 ,moisten the circles of bread with milk1 but do not use enough to cause them to fall apart2 then spread them with any jam or preserve and place two together like a sandwich4 ,place them in a frying-pan with a little butter1 and saute them on both sides to a delicate color4 ,sprinkle with powdered sugar and serve very hot4 ,a sabayon or other sauce can be served with them if convenient1 but it is not essential4 ,for other bread puddings see ,blueberry ,pudding and ,cherry ,bread1 page #bda4 ,,cake ,,puddings ,,cottage ,,pudding #a cupful of flour4 #a heaping teaspoonful of baking-powder4 #a tablespoonful of butter4 #a_/b cupful of sugar4 #a_/b cupful of milk4 #a saltspoonful of salt4 #a egg4 ,mix the baking-powder with the flour and sift them4 ,rub the butter and sugar together to a cream and beat into it the egg2 then add the milk1 in which the salt has been dissolved4 ,add the flour2 beat well together and turn into a cake-tin having a tube in the center4 ,bake about twenty-five minutes in a moderate oven4 ,turn it onto a flat dish1 leaving it bottom side up4 ,the chocolate sauce given below is recommended1 but any other sauce may be served with it4 ,chocolate sauce3 ,melt three ounces or squares of ,baker's chocolate on a dry pan 7see page #chh72 add one half cupful of sugar and one half cupful of boiling water4 ,stir until well dissolved and smooth1 then add one quarter teaspoonful of vanilla4 ,,canary ,,pudding ,take the mixture for ,genoese cake1 which is three eggs1 and their weight respectively of sugar1 butter1 and flour2 cream the butter and sugar2 then beat in1 one at a time1 the three eggs2 add lightly the sifted flour4 ,butter a covered pudding-mold2 decorate it with raisins1 or sprinkle it all over with currants2 fill it half full of the mixture2 cover and steam for one hour1 or put it in individual timbale-molds and bake for twenty minutes4 ,serve with wine or fruit or ,richelieu sauce4 ,,suet ,,pudding #a cupful of molasses4 #a teaspoonful of soda4 #a cupful of milk #c-a_/b cupfuls of flour4 #a cupful of stoned raisins4 #a cupful of suet1 chopped fine4 #a teaspoonful of salt4 ,mix the salt1 flour1 and suet together4 ,mix the molasses and milk2 add the soda and then as much of the flour mixture as will make a stiff batter 7not dough71 then add the raisins floured1 and fill a covered pudding-mold half full2 steam for three hours4 ,serve with foamy1 wine1 or brandy sauce4 ,,farina ,,pudding 7,boiled7 ,stir into three cupfuls of boiling milk one cupful of farina1 and cook for ten minutes4 ,rub together one tablespoonful of butter and two tablespoonfuls of sugar2 add the yolks of three eggs1 the grated rind of one lemon and twenty-five chopped blanched almonds4 ,stir this mixture into the farina after it is a little cooled2 lastly add the whites of three eggs beaten to stiff froth4 ,boil this pudding in a covered mold for one and a half hours4 ,serve with any pudding sauce4 ,,christmas ,,plum ,,pudding #c_/d pound of suet chopped very fine2 mix with it1 while chopping1 a tablespoonful of flour4 #c_/d pound of raisins seeded4 #c_/d pound of currants4 #c_/d pound of sugar4 #c_/d pound of fresh bread-crumbs4 ,grated zest of one lemon4 #a_/d pound candied orange-peel and citron cut into thin shavings4 #a_/b teaspoonful each of ground cinnamon1 cloves1 nutmeg1 and allspice4 ,mix the dry materials together thoroughly1 and then add six eggs1 one at a time1 and one half cupful of brandy2 add another egg if too stiff1 and more crumbs if too soft4 ,wet a strong cloth in cold water1 wring it dry1 butter it1 and dredge it well with flour2 turn the mixture into the center and draw the cloth together over the top1 leaving room for the pudding to swell a little1 and tie it firmly2 give it a good round shape4 ,put it into a pot of boiling water1 having it completely covered with water2 cover the pot and boil four to five hours4 ,do not let the water fall below the pudding1 and in adding more let it be hot1 so as to not arrest the boiling4 ,after it is removed from the water let it rest in the bag for ten minutes to harden a little1 then cut the string and turn it carefully onto a dish4 ,cut a small hole in the top of the pudding and insert a paper bonbon case 7see page #chf72 trim it so it does not show4 ,pour rum or brandy onto the dish and also into the paper box on top2 place it on the table and touch it with a lighted taper4 ,serve with a brandy sauce4 ,the amount given will serve twelve to fourteen persons4 ,the mixture may be divided and boiled in small puddings if it is too much to use at one time4 ,it will keep for a long time1 and the puddings can be warmed when used4 ,slices of cold plum pudding may be steamed and served with a sauce2 or they may be rolled in egg and crumbs and fried in hot fat1 and be served as fruit croquettes4 ,,fig ,,pudding #a_/b cupful of chopped figs4 #a_/b cupful of chopped suet4 #b cupfuls of white bread-crumbs4 #a_/b cupful of sugar4 #a cupful of milk4 #a_/d cupful of flour4 #a_/b cupful of chopped almonds4 #d eggs4 #a teaspoonful of baking-powder4 #c tablespoonfuls of noyau or other flavor4 ,flour the figs and suet4 ,soak the bread-crumbs in the milk1 add the sugar1 then the egg-yolks1 and beat it well2 then add slowly1 stirring all the time1 the figs1 suet1 almonds1 flour mixed with the baking-powder1 flavoring1 and lastly the whites of the eggs beaten very stiff4 ,turn it into a covered pudding-mold1 filling it three quarters full2 steam for three hours4 ,this mixture will fill twelve individual molds4 ,if the small molds are used1 place a star of angelica in the bottom of each one and cover it with a thin layer of boiled rice2 then fill three quarters full with the pudding mixture2 place them in a pan of hot water1 cover with a greased paper1 and poach on top of the range for one and one half hours4 ,this pudding can have brandy poured over and lighted the same as the plum pudding4 ,serve with a syrup sauce flavored the same as the pudding4 ,,cabinet ,,pudding ,no4 #a ,ornament the bottom of a well-buttered mold with citron and raisins4 ,cover them with slices of cake2 then fill the mold nearly full with alternate layers of fruit and cake1 arranging the fruit on the edges of the fruit layers so it will be even and symmetrical4 ,make a custard mixture of a pint of milk1 three egg-yolks1 and three tablespoonfuls of sugar4 ,pour it slowly into the mold1 so the cake will be thoroughly soaked1 and set it in a pan of water4 ,bake it in a slow oven for an hour1 or until the custard is set4 ,unmold the pudding1 and serve with it a wine sauce4 ,,cabinet ,,pudding ,no4 #b ,cut a half pound of candied fruits into dice1 using cherries1 apricots1 plums1 limes1 etc42 also some candied orange-peel shredded4 ,butter well a plain cylindrical mold2 sprinkle over the bottom a thin layer of the fruit1 then a layer of cake 7genoese1 or sponge layer cake1 see page #dff74 ,fill the mold to within an inch of the top with alternate layers of fruit and cake1 using also some macaroons4 ,leave always some fruit on the sides of the mold4 ,then turn in slowly a custard mixture made of one pint of milk1 the yolks of five eggs1 and two and one half tablespoonfuls of sugar4 ,let it stand a few minutes for the cake to absorb the liquid2 then place the mold in a pan of hot water1 and poach in a slow oven for one hour4 ,this pudding is usually served hot1 but may be served cold4 ,serve with ,sabayon1 ,richelieu1 or ,bischoff sauces4 7,see pudding sauces47 ,,cabinet ,,pudding ,no4 #c 7,royale7 ,take a loaf of brioche 7see page #cei and #cfa7 baked the day before in a cylindrical mold4 ,cut it into slices one half inch thick4 ,cut with a small patty-cutter a round piece from the center of all but two of the slices4 ,cut the crust from the outside1 taking as little as possible4 ,spread each slice with apricot jam1 and sprinkle with chopped almonds4 ,butter the mold well1 and replace the slices1 using on the bottom one which has not had a hole cut in the center4 ,when all but the last slice are in1 fill the well in the center with mixed canned fruits well drained1 using pineapple1 apricots1 a few candied cherries1 and chopped almonds2 then pour in a custard mixture made of one pint of milk1 four yolks of eggs1 two and a half tablespoonfuls of sugar4 ,let the brioche absorb the liquid2 then cover with the second whole slice1 and pour over that1 too1 some of the custard mixture4 ,place the mold in a pan of hot water1 and poach in a slow oven for one hour4 ,let it stand a little while in the mold after it is cooked4 ,when ready to serve1 unmold1 spread the whole outside with apricot jam1 and sprinkle with chopped almonds4 ,serve with apricot sauce or any other sauce4 ,,cabinet ,,pudding ,no4 #d ,cut slices of bread one half inch thick to fit a mold4 ,fill the mold with alternate layers of bread and chopped drained pineapple 7fresh or canned74 ,pour in a custard mixture made of one pint of milk1 yolks of three eggs1 and three tablespoonfuls of sugar4 ,bake in a slow oven for one hour 7as directed above71 or until the custard is set4 ,serve with a sauce made of the juice of the fruit diluted and thickened with a little arrowroot1 then sweetened and flavored 7with kirsch if liked71 and a few shredded almonds4 ,,savarins ,butter some individual timbale-molds1 sprinkle them with chopped almonds1 fill them half full of brioche paste 7see page #cei71 let the paste rise to the top of the molds1 and then bake in a hot oven for about twenty minutes4 ,when baked1 cut off the top even with the mold1 and turn them out4 ,pour over them a hot syrup made of one cupful of sugar and three quarters of a cupful of water boiled for ten minutes 7or to #cj deg471 and flavored with four teaspoonfuls of kirsch4 ,other flavors may be used if preferred4 ,let the savarins absorb enough of the hot syrup to be well moistened1 but not so much as to lose their firmness4 ,drain and serve them hot4 ,or incorporate into the paste before molding a little shredded candied orange-peel4 ,soak them1 when baked1 in syrup flavored with orange or curacao1 and cover them with an orange fondant icing 7see page #dhe71 and serve cold4 ,,baba ,into three cupfuls of brioche paste mix one cupful of currants1 raisins1 and chopped citron1 which have soaked for an hour in maraschino4 ,half fill buttered baba-molds 7which are cups holding about one half pint72 let it rise to top of mold1 which will take about three quarters of an hour4 ,it must not rise in too warm a place1 or the butter will separate4 ,bake them in a moderate oven one half hour4 ,let them absorb hot syrup at #cj deg41 flavored with kirsch or sherry4 ,,custards ,,creme ,,parisienne ,this is the same as caramel custard 7page #cif71 except that it is served hot4 ,butter well a flat mold or basin1 ornament the bottom with a few candied cherries and angelica1 pour over them caramel which is not browned deeper than an amber color1 and do not use enough to float the fruits4 ,let it cool before adding the custard mixture4 ,when it is baked1 let the mold stand in the hot water until the moment of serving4 ,,fried ,,cream #a pint of milk4 #a_/b cupful of sugar4 #a_/b teaspoonful of butter4 ,yolks of #c eggs4 #b-a_/d tablespoonfuls of cornstarch4 #a tablespoonful of flour4 #a_/b teaspoonful of vanilla4 #a_/b saltspoonful of salt4 ,put the milk into a double boiler with the salt and a piece of cinnamon or lemon-zest4 ,when it is at the boiling-point add the sugar2 then the cornstarch and flour1 which have been moistened in cold milk4 ,stir until thickened2 remove1 and turn it over the beaten yolks of the eggs4 ,place it on the fire again for a few minutes to set the eggs4 ,add the butter and flavoring1 and strain it onto a flat dish1 or biscuit-tin1 making a layer three quarters of an inch thick4 ,let it stand until perfectly cold and firm 7it may be made the day before it is used72 then cut it into pieces three inches long and two inches wide4 ,handle the pieces carefully1 using a broad knife-blade4 ,cover each one with sifted cracker-crumbs1 then with egg1 and again with crumbs2 be sure they are completely covered4 ,fry the pieces in hot fat to an amber color2 lay them on a brown paper in the open oven to dry1 sprinkle them with sugar1 and serve on a folded napkin4 ,the crust should be crisp1 and the center creamy1 the same as a croquette4 ,if the pudding stands long enough before being fried1 it will not be difficult to handle4 ,have the fat smoking hot1 and do not fry too long4 ,this dish is recommended1 as it is particularly good1 and very easy to make4 ,,short ,,cakes ,,strawberry ,,shortcake #d cupfuls of sifted flour4 #c heaping teaspoonfuls of baking-powder4 #a teaspoonful of salt4 #a teaspoonful of butter4 #a teaspoonful of lard4 ,milk4 #b quarts of strawberries4 ,sift the baking-powder and salt with the flour1 rub in the shortening2 then with a fork stir in lightly and quickly sufficient milk to make a soft dough--too soft to roll4 ,turn it into a greased tin1 and bake in a hot oven for thirty minutes4 ,watch to see that it rises evenly4 ,unmold1 and leaving it inverted1 cut a circle around the top1 within one inch of the edge2 lift off the circle of crust1 and with a fork pick out the crumb from the center1 leaving about three quarters of an inch of biscuit around the sides4 ,spread the inside of the cake with butter1 and then fill it with crushed strawberries1 which have been standing half an hour or more mixed with sugar enough to sweeten them4 ,turn off the juice from the berries before filling the cake4 ,replace the circle of crust1 and cover the whole cake1 top and sides1 with meringue1 heaping it irregularly on the top4 ,use a pastry-bag if convenient to give the meringue ornamental form4 ,place it in the oven a moment to slightly color the meringue4 ,arrange a few handsome berries on the top4 ,serve the strawberry-juice as a sauce4 ,whipped cream may be used instead of meringue1 if convenient4 ,shortcake1 to be good1 should be freshly made1 and served as soon as put together4 ,,currant ,,shortcake ,make a biscuit dough as directed for strawberry shortcake above1 using half the quantity4 ,turn it into a pie-tin to bake4 ,while it is still hot cut the edges and pull it apart with forks 7do not cut it74 ,turn the crumb sides up2 butter them and cover each one with a thick layer of crushed currants1 which have been standing at least two hours with enough sugar to sweeten them4 ,place one layer on the other1 cover the top with meringue1 and ornament it with a few currants in lines or arranged in any way to suit the fancy4 ,this is a delicious shortcake1 the acid of the currants giving it more character than strawberry shortcake4 ,,strawberry ,,cake ,make two layers of ,genoese 7page #dfg7 or of sponge cake ,no4 #a 7page #dff72 cover them with whipped cream1 and arrange whole strawberries close together over the entire top2 place one layer on the other1 and serve at once4 ,the cream moistens the cake if it stands long4 ,shortcakes are good made of peaches or pineapple1 using the biscuit mixture4 ,,roly-,,poly ,,pudding ,make a biscuit dough1 and roll it out a quarter of an inch thick2 spread it with any kind of berries 7whortleberries or blackberries are best74 ,then roll it1 and tie it in a cloth1 leaving room for the pudding to expand1 and boil or steam it for an hour4 ,serve with any sauce4 ,,fruit ,,pudding ,beat two eggs2 add a cupful of milk1 three teaspoonfuls of baking-powder and enough flour to make a stiff batter2 then stir in as much fruit as it will hold 7cherries1 whortleberries1 strawberries1 or raspberries are the best fruits to use74 ,turn the mixture into a pudding-mold large enough to give room for the pudding to expand1 and boil it for an hour4 ,serve with it plain pudding sauce1 ,sabayon1 or a fruit sauce4 ,,baked ,,indian ,,pudding #a_/d cupful yellow meal4 ,scant half cupful of molasses4 #a_/d teaspoonful of salt4 #a-a_/b tablespoonfuls of butter4 #c cupfuls of milk4 #a egg4 #a_/d cupful of water4 ,dash of nutmeg4 ,put two cupfuls of milk1 a quarter cupful of water1 and the salt1 on the fire2 when it boils stir in the meal1 and let it cook five minutes1 stirring all the time2 then remove from the fire1 and add the rest of the milk mixed with the molasses1 the butter1 the beaten egg1 and the nutmeg 7or ginger1 if preferred71 and turn it into a baking-dish4 ,bake it in a slow oven for three hours4 ,this quantity makes a pint and a half of pudding4 ,,note4--,some small bits of candied orange-peel sprinkled on the bottom of the dish before the batter is put in give a delicious flavor to the pudding4 ,,pudding ,,sauces ,pudding sauces are quickly made4 ,they call for but few materials1 and1 like other sauces1 often give the whole character to the dish4 ,serving the same pudding with a different sauce1 makes it a different dish2 therefore it is well to vary as much as possible the combinations4 ,farina pudding can be served with almost any of the sauces given below4 ,cake1 cornstarch1 rice1 apple1 or bread puddings can also be served with almost any sauce1 if the flavorings are the same1 or such as go well together4 ,hot puddings can be served with cold sauces4 ,jellies1 creams1 and blanc-manges can be served with whipped cream1 the fruit sauces1 or the whipped egg sauces4 ,stewed prunes or compote of orange are good to serve with plain boiled rice1 or with sweetened hominy1 farina1 or cerealine molded in cups4 ,,plain ,,pudding ,,sauce ,no4 #a 7,hot7 #c_/d cupful of sugar4 #b cupfuls of boiling water4 #a teaspoonful of butter4 ,zest of lemon4 #a tablespoonful of cornstarch4 ,flavoring to taste of vanilla or any essence1 or brandy1 rum1 or wine4 ,dilute the corn-starch with a little cold water1 and stir it into the boiling water2 add the sugar and stir until the starch becomes clear2 then add the butter and flavoring4 ,if the sauce becomes too thick1 dilute it with a little boiling water2 the whipped white of one egg may be added1 but is not essential4 ,,plain ,,pudding ,,sauce ,no4 #b 7,cold7 ,stir a heaping teaspoonful of corn-starch1 which has been moistened with a little cold milk1 into a pint of boiling milk1 and stir for five minutes1 or until it is well cooked2 add three quarters of a cupful of sugar1 and remove from the fire4 ,when the mixture is cold flavor it1 and just before serving beat in the whipped whites of two eggs and serve at once4 ,,rich ,,pudding ,,sauce 7,,for ,,fruit ,,puddings ,,or ,,croquettes7 #c tablespoonfuls of butter4 #c tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar4 #b tablespoonfuls of hot water4 #a_/b cupful of sherry4 ,juice of #a_/b lemon4 #b egg yolks4 ,dash of nutmeg4 ,cream the butter2 add the sugar1 and cream again thoroughly2 then add the yolks and beat until light2 add the hot water and the nutmeg4 ,place it in a saucepan of hot water1 and beat1 adding slowly the lemon-juice and the wine4 ,the sauce should be foamy4 ,,foamy ,,sauce 7,,steamed ,,and ,,baked ,,puddings7 #a_/b cupful of butter4 #a cupful of powdered sugar4 #a teaspoonful of vanilla4 #a_/d cupful of boiling water4 #b tablespoonfuls of sherry4 #a egg white4 ,cream the butter and sugar2 add the vanilla and wine1 and beat them well4 ,just before serving stir in the boiling water2 add the whipped white of one egg1 and beat until foamy4 ,,brandy1 ,,rum1 ,,or ,,kirsch ,,sauce 7,,fruit ,,or ,,plum ,,puddings7 ,put in a saucepan two cupfuls of water with one cupful of sugar4 ,when the sugar is dissolved and the water boils1 add slowly a heaping tablespoonful of corn-starch or arrowroot diluted with a little cold water2 stir until the corn-starch is clear2 then remove from the fire1 and add two tablespoonfuls of the liquor4 ,serve it hot4 ,,sabayon ,no4 #a #d egg-yolks4 #d tablespoonfuls of wine4 #d tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar4 ,beat in a small saucepan the eggs and sugar to a light cream2 add the wine4 ,when ready to serve1 place the saucepan in another one containing hot water1 and beat until the sugar is melted and the egg beginning to thicken4 ,,sabayon ,no4 #b ,put one cup of sugar1 one half cup of sherry1 and one egg all together in a saucepan and whip over the fire until it is a little thickened4 ,,syrup ,,sauce ,put two cupfuls of sugar and three tablespoonfuls of water into a saucepan on the fire1 and stir until the sugar is dissolved2 then let it boil without touching until it is a light syrup1 and remove from the fire2 add a teaspoonful of butter and flavoring1 which may be fruit juice1 liqueur1 brandy1 or flavoring extract4 ,,fruit ,,sauces ,canned fruits1 preserves1 or jams make good sauces for blanc-mange1 corn-starch1 rice1 or boiled puddings4 ,the juice of canned fruit1 boiled and thickened a little with arrowroot1 and flavored or not with liqueur or essence1 makes a good hot sauce4 ,,apricot ,,sauce ,dilute one half cupful of apricot jam with one half cupful of hot water2 sweeten if necessary2 strain and flavor with vanilla or one teaspoonful of ,madeira or maraschino4 ,,puree ,,of ,,fruit ,,sauces ,strawberries1 raspberries1 peaches and apricots make excellent pudding sauces4 ,mash the fruit and press it through a colander or coarse sieve2 sweeten to taste2 serve hot or cold2 if hot1 let it come to the boiling-point and thicken with arrowroot1 using one teaspoonful to a cupful of puree4 ,,pineapple ,,sauce ,chop the pineapple 7fresh or canned7 fine2 sweeten and thicken with arrowroot4 ,serve with fritters1 corn-starch1 rice1 or batter puddings4 ,,boiled ,,custard ,,sauce ,yolks of #b eggs4 #a cupful of milk4 #b tablespoonfuls of sugar4 #a_/d teaspoonful of vanilla4 ,beat the yolks and sugar to a cream2 pour over them the scalded milk2 return to the fire to cook the eggs1 but let it only slightly thicken2 remove2 add the flavoring and beat with a wire whip to make it light and foamy4 ,when served with plum pudding add rum or brandy to flavor it4 ,almonds chopped fine improve it for hot puddings4 ,,chocolate ,,sauce ,put a half cupful each of sugar and water in a saucepan and let boil five minutes4 ,let the syrup cool1 then stir it slowly into four ounces of unsweetened chocolate melted2 add one half teaspoonful of vanilla4 ,let it stand in a pan of hot water until ready to serve2 then add one half cupful of cream or of milk4#ddg-99 ,,footnotes3 #ddg-99 ,this sauce should be smooth and of the consistency of heavy cream4 ,if it is to be used with ice-cream1 omit the cream or milk and make it of the right consistency with water4 ,see also page #dce4--,m4 ,r4 ,,bischoff ,,sauce ,put in a saucepan one cupful of white wine1 one cupful of hot water1 and sugar to taste2 add the zest of one half of an orange and one half of a lemon2 let it come to the boiling-point2 remove from the fire2 take out the orange and lemon peel and add one half cupful of seedless raisins1 one tablespoonful of shredded almonds1 and a tablespoonful of finely shredded candied orange and lemon peel2 cover and let stand a half-hour4 ,when ready to serve let it again come to the boiling-point4 ,serve with cabinet puddings4 ,,richelieu ,,sauce ,put one cupful of sugar into a saucepan with one cupful of boiling water2 let it boil five minutes2 add one teaspoonful of arrowroot moistened with a little water1 and cook until clear2 then remove from fire4 ,flavor with one tablespoonful of kirsch and add two tablespoonfuls of shredded almonds and candied cherries cut into small pieces4 ,,meringue ,,sauce ,whip the whites of two or three eggs to a very stiff froth4 ,take as many tablespoonfuls of sugar as you have egg-whites2 add a little water and let it cook to the ball 7see page #eab71 or so that when dropped into water it will roll into a ball between the fingers4 ,turn this hot syrup slowly onto the whipped eggs1 beating all the time2 then beat it over the fire for a minute where the heat is moderate4 ,this is called ,italian meringue4 ,remove it from the fire and add a little lemon-juice or kirsch to take away the excessive sweetness2 or a little currant jelly can be used1 also grated orange-peel and shredded candied peel2 serve it at once4 ,this is a good sauce for souffles or light puddings4 ,,hard ,,sauce ,beat together one half cupful of butter and one cupful of sugar until they are very white and light2 flavor with vanilla1 wine1 or brandy4 ,the success of this sauce depends upon its being beaten a long time4 ,it may be varied by beating with it the yolk of an egg1 or adding the whipped white of an egg after the butter and sugar are beaten4 ,let it stand on ice to harden a little before serving4 ,,strawberry ,,sauce ,make a hard sauce as directed above2 add the whipped white of one egg and a cupful of strawberries mashed to a pulp4 ,any fruit-pulp may be added in the same way and makes a good sauce for fruit puddings4 ,,cocoanut ,,sauce ,make a hard sauce as directed above2 add the yolks of two eggs2 when it is very light and creamy add the whipped whites and a cupful of grated cocoanut4 ,,cold ,,jelly ,,sauce ,stir a half glassful of grape1 currant1 or any jelly until smooth2 then beat into it lightly the whipped whites of two eggs4 ,serve with any light pudding or with jelly4 ,,chapter ,,xx ,,pies ,,and ,,puff-,,paste ,sidenote3 ,seasons4 ,the ,american pie is perhaps the most ridiculed of all dishes4 ,it has1 however1 great popularity and undoubted merits4 ,were the crust1 especially the under one1 always right1 it would remove the most salient point of criticism4 ,the tart pies1 made with puff-paste1 are a temptation to the most fastidious taste4 ,the mince pie1 probably the most indigestible of all1 is the one universally accepted as a treat1 and seldom refused by the scoffer4 ,pies have their seasons1 like other good things1 the apple pie being the only one served the year round4 ,the berries and fruits1 each one in their time1 make most acceptable and delicious pies and tarts1 while rhubarb introduces the spring1 and pumpkin announces the autumn4 ,in this day of canned and dried fruits the season need not be so strictly observed1 but fresh fruits will always be preferable to preserved ones1 and tradition goes far to hold the place for pumpkin pie at ,thanksgiving1 and mince pie at the ,christmas feasts4 ,,pies ,,plain ,,pastry ,,for ,,pies #a quart of flour4 #a cupful of butter4 #a cupful of cold water4 #a teaspoonful of salt4 ,or use one-half butter and one half lard or cottolene4 ,this quantity gives enough for three or four pies4 ,cottolene makes good pastry4 ,the shortening may be mixed1 but the flavor is better where butter alone is used4 ,the richness of pastry depends upon the amount of shortening used4 ,sift the salt and flour together1 reserving a little flour for the board4 ,with a knife1 cut the butter into the flour4 ,add the water a little at a time1 and mix it in lightly with the knife2 turn it onto the board1 and roll it twice--that is1 after it is rolled out once1 fold it together and roll it again4 ,if the paste is wanted richer for the top crust1 put bits of butter over the paste when rolled2 fold and roll it again several times4 ,fold the paste1 and put it in the ice-box for an hour before using1 keeping it covered4 ,in making pastry everything should be cold1 the handling light1 and the hands used as little as possible4 ,paste will keep several days in a cool place1 but should be rolled in a napkin1 so it will not dry and form a crust4 ,to ,put a ,pie ,together4--,roll the paste one eighth inch thick1 and a little larger than the tin4 ,dust the pan with flour2 place the paste on it1 letting it shrink all it will4 ,lift it from the sides to fit it into place1 and press it as little as possible4 ,cut a narrow strip of paste1 and lay around the edge2 moisten it so it will stick4 ,brush the top of the bottom crust with white of egg1 so the filling will not soak in and make it heavy4 ,put in the filling1 and cover with another sheet of pastry4 ,moisten the top of the strip of pastry so the top crust will adhere to it2 this gives three layers around the edge4 ,trim and press them lightly together4 ,cut several slits in the top crust to let the steam escape in cooking4 ,a thin piece of paste cut into fancy shape can be placed in the center for ornament if desired4 ,,pastry ,,for ,,tarts ,,or ,,open ,,pies #b cupfuls of flour4 #c_/d cupful of butter4 #a_/b teaspoonful of salt4 #a tablespoonful of sugar4 ,yolks of #b eggs4 ,water4 ,sift the flour1 salt1 and sugar together4 ,cut in the butter as directed above4 ,mix in the beaten yolks1 then enough water to make a paste which is not very stiff2 roll it two or three times1 then wrap it in a cloth1 or cover it closely1 and put it in the ice-box for an hour4 ,this gives enough paste for four small tart pies like those shown in illustration4 ,,tart ,,pies 7,,apricot1 ,,plum1 ,,apple1 ,,berry7 ,roll the paste one eighth of an inch thick1 lay it on a deep pie-dish2 let it shrink all it will1 and use as little pressure as possible in fitting it to the tin4 ,cut the paste an inch larger than the dish1 and fold it under1 giving a high twisted edge4 ,prick the paste on the bottom in several places with a fork4 ,lay over it a thin paper1 and fill the tart with rice1 dried peas1 beans1 cornmeal1 or any dry material convenient4 ,brush the edge with egg1 and bake it in a moderate oven4 ,when done remove the rice1 or other filling1 and the paper4 ,brush the bottom with white of egg4 ,this will insure a dry under crust4 ,if apricots or peaches are to be used1 peel and cut them in halves1 lay them evenly over the tart with the center side up4 ,place the half of a blanched almond in each one to represent the pit4 ,put the juice of the fruit into a saucepan on the fire2 if there is no juice use a cupful of water4 ,sweeten to taste1 and when it boils add to each cupful of juice one teaspoonful of arrowroot dissolved in a little cold water1 and let it cook until clear2 then pour it around the fruit1 but not over it1 as the fruit should lie on top and show its form4 ,place in the oven only long enough to cook the fruit tender4 ,if canned fruit is used1 cook the juice and arrowroot until a little thickened and clear2 then pour it around the fruit1 and let cool4 ,it will not need to be put in the oven4 ,when plums or cherries are used1 remove the pits carefully1 and place the fruit close together1 with the whole side up4 ,for apple tarts1 cut the apples in even quarters or eighths2 stew them in sweetened water1 with a little lemon-juice added1 until tender4 ,lay them overlapping in even rows or circles in the tart4 ,to a cupful of water in which the apples were stewed add a teaspoonful of arrowroot1 and cook until clear2 pour it over the apples1 sprinkle with sugar1 nutmeg1 and cinnamon4 ,with berries1 the fruit may be stewed or not before being placed in the tart2 then strips of paste are laid across it1 like lattice-work1 and the paste brushed with egg4 ,bake long enough to cook the fruit and the strips of paste4 ,when cold place a fresh berry on each piece of crust where it crosses2 or place a drop of meringue on the crusts1 and the berries in the openings4 ,the ,california canned fruits1 costing thirty-five cents1 make very good pies4 ,one can of fruit will make two pies4 ,tart-rings are better to use than pie-tins1 as the sides are straight4 ,place them on a baking-sheet1 or tin1 before lining them with pastry4 ,illustration3 ,,tart ,,rings ,,and ,,crusts4 #a1 #b4 ,tart ,rings4 #c4 ,crust baked in ring ,no4 #a4 #d4 ,crust filled with rice as prepared for baking4 7,see page #deb7 ,illustration3 ,,tart ,,pies4 #a4 ,pie filled with quarters of apples arranged in rows4 #b4 ,pie filled with apricots cut in halves--a blanched almond in the center of each piece4 7,see page #deb47 ,,orange ,,pie ,juice and grated yellow rind of #a orange4 #b_/c cupful of milk4 #c eggs4 #a cupful of granulated sugar4 #a tablespoonful of flour4 #a_/b saltspoonful of salt4 ,beat the yolks and the sugar together2 add the flour1 the milk1 and the grated rind and juice of the orange4 ,place it on the fire in a double boiler1 and stir until it is a little thickened2 then pour it into an open or tart pie1 and bake thirty minutes4 ,the crust of the pie should be brushed with white of egg before adding the thickened mixture4 ,the tart crust may be first baked1 as directed above1 if preferred4 ,cover the top with meringue made with the whites of the eggs and sweetened with three tablespoonfuls of sugar4 ,pile it on irregularly1 or press it through a pastry-bag into fancy shapes4 ,place it in the oven a moment to brown4 ,a little more flour may be used if the pie is wanted more solid4 ,a ,,plain ,,apple ,,pie ,fill a pie with apples sliced thin1 using enough to make the pie at least an inch thick when done4 ,add a little water to the apples1 and cover with a top crust which is a little richer than the under one4 ,this is done by rolling out a part of the same paste1 covering it with bits of butter1 folding it together1 and rolling it again1 repeating the operation two or three times4 ,cut a few slits in the paste to let out the steam while cooking4 ,brush the top with beaten yolk of egg4 ,when the pie is baked1 and while it is still hot1 lift off carefully the top crust2 add sugar1 nutmeg1 and a little butter1 and mix them well with the apples4 ,replace the top crust1 and dust it with powdered sugar4 ,apple pies seasoned in this way are better than when seasoned before being baked4 ,,pumpkin ,,pie ,cut a pumpkin into small pieces2 remove the soft part and seeds4 ,cover and cook it slowly in its own steam until tender2 then remove the cover and reduce it almost to dryness1 using care that it does not burn4 ,press it through a colander4 ,to two and one half cupfuls of pulp add two cupfuls of milk1 one teaspoonful each of salt1 butter1 cinnamon1 and ginger1 one tablespoonful of molasses1 two eggs1 and sugar to taste4 ,add the beaten eggs last and after the mixture is cold4 ,pour it into an open crust and bake slowly forty to fifty minutes4 ,squash pies are made in the same way1 but are not the same in flavor1 although they are often given the name of pumpkin pies4 ,,mince ,,pie ,,mixture #c pounds of lean boiled beef chopped fine1 or half beef and half boiled tongue4 #a-a_/b pounds of suet chopped fine4 #c quarts of apples chopped not very fine4 #a quart of stoned raisins4 #b cupfuls of cleaned currants4 #a_/d pound of citron cut into thin slices4 #a cupful of candied orange and lemon peel shredded4 #a teaspoonful each of cloves1 allspice and cinnamon4 ,grated zest and juice of two oranges and two lemons4 #b nutmegs grated4 #a tablespoonful of salt4 #a cupful of molasses4 #c cupfuls or sugar4 #c cupfuls of brandy4 #a cupful of sherry4 #a cupful of cider4 ,mix the meat and suet together2 then add all the dry ingredients and then the liquids4 ,pack in an earthen jar4 ,it should stand several days before using1 and will keep an indefinite time4 ,the pies should be made of good puff paste for the upper crust and tart paste for the under one1 the edge having three layers as directed on page #dea4 ,the filling of mince meat should be one and a half inches thick4 ,paint the top crust with egg and trace with a pointed knife some simple design on it1 cutting the paste very slightly4 ,bake for one hour and a quarter4 ,glaze the top by sifting a very little powdered sugar over it a few minutes before removing it from the oven4 ,,cream ,,pie #c eggs4 #a cupful of sugar4 #a teaspoonful of baking-powder4 #a cupful of flour4 ,sift the flour and baking-powder together2 beat the yolks and sugar together2 add the flour and lastly the whipped whites of the eggs4 ,bake this cake mixture in two layers1 and place between them when cold1 and just before serving1 a thick layer of whipped cream4 ,have the top piece covered with a boiled icing1 or use between the cakes a cream filling made as follows3 ,,cream ,,for ,,filling4 #b-a_/b cupfuls of milk4 #b tablespoonfuls of flour4 #c_/d cupful of sugar4 #a egg4 #a teaspoonful of vanilla4 ,scald the milk2 turn it onto the beaten egg2 return it to the fire2 add the flour moistened with a little milk1 and the sugar1 and stir until thickened4 ,let it cool before adding it to the cake4 ,serve with whipped cream if desired4 ,,cocoanut ,,pie ,line a tin basin which is two inches deep with pie paste1 and bake it as directed for tart pies 7page #deb74 ,make a custard of one pint of milk1 three egg-yolks1 three tablespoonfuls of sugar1 and two tablespoonfuls of corn-starch4 ,scald the milk and turn it onto the yolks and sugar beaten together2 return it to the fire2 add the corn-starch moistened with cold milk1 and stir until well thickened2 add one half teaspoonful of vanilla1 and the whites of two eggs whipped to a froth2 cook one minute to set the egg1 then remove1 and when nearly cold and stiffened stir in the half of a grated cocoanut4 ,brush the bottom of the baked pie-crust with white of egg2 cover it with a thin layer of grated cocoanut and turn in the thickened custard4 ,cover the top with meringue made with the white of one egg4 ,return it to the oven one minute to color the meringue4 ,let the pie stand long enough to get firm and cold before serving4 ,if the grated cocoanut is not added until the custard has stiffened1 it will not sink to the bottom4 ,,cranberry ,,pie ,chop one cupful of cranberries and a half cupful of seeded raisins together into small pieces2 add to them a cupful of sugar1 a half cupful of water1 a tablespoonful of flour1 and a teaspoonful of vanilla4 ,bake with an upper and under crust4 ,this resembles cherry pie4 ,,washington ,,pie ,make two round layer cakes1 of sponge or of ,genoese cake2 spread between them a layer of pastry cream or of chocolate filling4 ,dust the top with powdered sugar in crossed lines to imitate strips of pastry4 ,pastry ,cream--,boil with a pint of milk or water five tablespoonfuls of sugar2 add two tablespoonfuls of corn-starch1 the yolks of five eggs1 and a tablespoonful of butter2 stir until thickened1 add flavoring1 and when partly cool spread it on the cake4 ,chocolate ,filling--,mix a half cupful of milk and a cupful of sugar1 and stir until the sugar is dissolved2 then add an ounce of shaved chocolate1 and the beaten yolks of two eggs2 stir until it is thickened2 flavor with one half teaspoonful of vanilla1 and let it partly cool before spreading it on the cake4 ,,puff-,,paste ,it is a mistake to consider the making of puff-paste too difficult for any but an experienced cook to undertake4 ,no one need hesitate to attempt it1 and if the few simple rules are strictly observed there will be success4 ,the materials are few and inexpensive1 and within the compass of the most moderate household4 ,if light1 good pastry can be substituted for the sodden crust of the ordinary pie1 it will be found not only more palatable1 but far more digestible and wholesome4 ,confections of puff-paste can be served on all occasions1 and always make an acceptable dish1 whereas ordinary pastry is excluded from any but the most informal service4 ,,general ,,rules ,the most important rule for making puff-paste1 and the secret of success1 is to have cold paste and a hot oven4 ,it is well to have a marble slab to roll it on1 but this is not positively essential4 ,a warm1 damp day should be avoided4 ,the paste will keep on ice for a day or two before it is baked1 and for several days in a dry place after it is baked1 and if placed in the oven for a few moments just before serving1 it will have the same crispness as when just baked4 ,if there is no room colder than the kitchen to work in when mixing the paste1 stand by an open window or in a current of air1 for it is necessary to keep the paste cold during the whole time of preparing it4 ,use pastry flour if convenient 7,plant's ,st4 ,louis ,flour74 ,it can be obtained at all first-class grocers4 ,it has a very fine grain1 and can easily be distinguished from ordinary flour by rubbing a little between the thumb and forefinger4 ,,receipt ,,for ,,puff-,,paste #a_/b pound or #a cupful of butter4 #a_/b pound or #b cupfuls of flour4 #a_/b teaspoonful of salt4 #a_/d to #a_/b cupful of ice-water4 #ast4 ,put the butter in a bowl of ice-water1 and work it with the hand until it becomes smooth and flexible2 then place it in a napkin and knead it a little to free it from moisture4 ,pat it into a flat square cake1 and place it on the ice until ready to use4 #b;d4 ,sift the flour and salt together on a board or marble slab2 reserve a little flour to be used for dusting the slab4 ,make a well in the center1 and pour in a part of the water4 ,work in the flour1 and use enough water to make a smooth paste4 ,the exact amount of water cannot be given1 as at certain times the flour absorbs more than at others4 ,gather in all the crumbs1 and work the paste as you would bread dough until it becomes smooth4 ,roll it in a napkin1 and place it on ice for fifteen minutes1 that it may become thoroughly cold4 ,illustration3 ,,three ,,pans ,,arranged ,,for ,,chilling ,,puff ,,paste--,,the ,,upper ,,and ,,under ,,ones ,,holding ,,cracked ,,ice1 ,,the ,,center ,,one ,,holding ,,the ,,paste ,,wrapped ,,in ,a ,,napkin4 #c;d4 ,sprinkle the slab lightly with flour4 ,roll the cold paste into a square piece2 place the cold butter in the center1 and fold the paste over it1 first from the sides and then the ends1 keeping the shape square1 and folding so the butter is completely incased1 and cannot escape through the folds when rolled4 ,this must be absolutely guarded against at all times1 and can be prevented if the paste is rolled evenly and folded properly4 ,turn the folded side down1 and with a rolling-pin roll it lightly away from you into a long1 narrow strip1 keeping it as even as possible4 ,fold it over1 making three even layers of paste4 ,this is called giving it one turn2 then roll the folded strip again1 and fold as before4 ,this must be repeated until it has had six turns1 which is as many as it should receive to give it its greatest lightness4 ,after each turn1 if it shows signs of softening1 otherwise after each two turns1 wrap the paste in a napkin1 and place it in a pan1 which should be placed between two other pans containing cracked ice1 and let it remain there twenty to thirty minutes4 ,great care must be used in rolling the paste to keep the edges even1 so that the layers will be even1 and to roll lightly and always away from you1 so as not to break the air-bubbles which give the lightness to the paste4 ,the rolling is made easier by lightly pounding as well as rolling the paste4 ,after each folding press the edges gently with the rolling-pin to shut in the air1 and turn the paste so as to roll in a different direction4 ,the paste should slip on the slab4 ,if it does not1 it sticks1 and must be put on the ice at once4 ,when it has had six turns cut it into the desired forms1 and place again on the ice for twenty to thirty minutes before putting it in the oven4 ,the trimmings1 put together and rolled1 make a good bottom crust for tart bands1 or a top crust for mince pies4 ,the baking of puff-paste is as important a matter as the rolling4 ,the oven must be very hot1 with the greatest heat at the bottom1 so the paste may rise before it begins to brown2 therefore put it on the bottom of the oven and lay a paper on the shelf for a few minutes4 ,do not open the door for the first five minutes4 ,it is essential to have the oven very hot4 ,it must not1 however1 scorch the paste1 and if it scorches open the draughts at once1 and place a basin of ice-water in the oven to lower the temperature4 ,the amount given in this receipt makes about six pate shells or one vol-au-vent case4 ,,pate ,,shells ,roll puff-paste which has had six turns to a quarter-inch thickness2 cut it into circles with a fluted or plain cutter two and a quarter inches in diameter4 ,it should be icy-cold when cut1 for if it sticks on one side it will not rise evenly4 ,from one half the circles cut a hole in the center with a cutter one inch in diameter4 ,moisten the edges of the whole circles1 and place on them the rings4 ,brush over the top with egg4 7,this is to glaze them1 and the egg must not touch the edges47 ,place them on the ice for half an hour1 then bake in hot oven for twenty minutes4 ,bake the small circles cut from the center on a separate tin1 as they do not require as much time2 when baked pick out from the center any uncooked paste4 ,use the small pieces for covers after the cases are filled4 ,if preferred1 roll the paste one half inch thick1 and with the small cutter cut half-way through the paste4 ,when baked lift off the inner circle1 and remove the uncooked paste from the interior4 ,illustration3 ,,pate ,,shells4 ,,tart ,,bands ,make a good short paste1 using the receipt for tart paste4 ,roll it one eighth inch thick1 and cut it into a circle six inches in diameter1 using a basin for guide4 ,wet the edges and lay around it a band of puff-paste cut in a strip one and one half inches wide and one quarter inch thick4 ,place the strip neatly and carefully around the edge1 using care not to press it2 cut the edges that are to join in a sharp diagonal line1 and moisten them so they will adhere4 ,prick the bottom crust in many places with a fork to prevent its puffing up2 brush the top of the band with egg1 but do not let the egg touch the edges2 let it rest on ice for half an hour1 then bake in hot oven thirty to forty minutes4 ,when ready to serve fill it with jam1 preserves1 puree1 or any other mixture used for tart pies4 ,these tarts are very good1 and can be served where pies would not be admissible4 ,,millefeuilles ,roll puff-paste turned six times to the thickness of one half inch2 cut it with a pastry wheel into pieces three inches long and one inch wide4 ,brush the tops of the pieces with egg1 and sprinkle them with sugar4 ,let them stand on ice one half hour1 and then bake in a hot oven for twenty minutes1 or until well browned2 these are served in place of cakes4 ,or1 cut the paste three and a half inches long and two inches wide1 and when baked place two pieces together with a thin layer of apricot jam between them1 and cover the top with meringue4 ,these are served as a dessert dish for luncheon4 ,,tartlets ,cut puff-paste into rings the same as for pate shells4 ,use tart paste for the under crust4 ,after they are baked fill the center with pineapple1 with any preserves1 or with apple puree covered with apricot jam4 ,,paganini ,,tartlets ,roll puff-paste one eighth inch thick2 cut it with a pastry wheel into squares of three and a half to four inches4 ,turn the points together in the middle1 and press them down lightly4 ,bake2 then put a spoonful of jam in the center of each1 and cover the jam with meringue2 place them in the oven a moment to brown4 ,,to ,,glaze ,,pastry ,take an egg and one tablespoonful of water1 and beat the egg enough to break it1 but not enough to make it froth4 ,the yolk alone may be used with the water1 but the white alone will not give it color4 ,brush it lightly over the pastry1 using a brush or quill-feather1 and dust it with a very little sugar4 ,this will give a brown and polished surface to the pastry4 ,when two layers of pastry are to be stuck together1 brush the top of one with water1 and lay the other on it before baking them4 ,,chapter ,,xxi ,,cake ,sidenote3 ,baking4 ,the most difficult part of cake-making is the baking4 ,unless the oven is right1 the cake will be a failure1 no matter how carefully it may have been mixed4 ,,rules ,have everything ready before beginning to mix the cake4 ,have the weights and measures exact4 ,sidenote3 ,fire4 ,have the fire so it will last through the baking1 and the heat of the oven just right 7see below71 for on this the success of the cake mostly depends4 ,do not mix the cake until the oven is entirely ready for it to go in4 ,sift the flour before measuring it4 ,if baking-powder or cream of tartar is used1 sift it with the flour4 ,mix in an earthen bowl with a wooden spoon4 ,beat the yolks and whites of the eggs separately4 ,grease the tins with lard1 as butter blackens4 ,for some cakes it is better to line the pans with paper4 ,sidenote3 ,fruit4 ,when fruit is used1 roll it in flour1 and add it the last thing4 ,if the fruit is wanted in layers1 add it while the mixture is being poured into the tins4 ,sidenote3 ,salt4 ,add one quarter teaspoonful of salt to all cakes4 ,sidenote3 ,sugary crust4 ,if a sugary crust is wanted1 sprinkle the top with sugar before the cake is baked4 ,sidenote3 ,cause of cracking4 ,if the cake cracks open as it rises1 too much flour has been used4 ,sidenote3 ,uneven rising4 ,if it rises in a cone in the center1 the oven is too hot4 ,sidenote3 ,beating4 ,beating eggs and butter makes them light1 beating flour makes it tough2 hence the rule to add it last4 ,sidenote3 ,adding white of egg4 ,when the whipped whites are added do not stir1 but turn or fold them in lightly1 so as not to break the air-cells4 ,sidenote3 ,pans1 how filled4 ,in filling the pans let the mixture be a little higher on the sides than in the middle4 ,sidenote3 ,soda and baking powder4 ,when molasses is used1 baking-powder 7also cream of tartar7 must be omitted1 and soda alone used for raising the cake4 ,sidenote3 ,equivalents4 ,one teaspoonful of baking-powder is the equivalent of one teaspoonful of cream of tartar1 and one half teaspoonful of soda4 ,,how ,,to ,,beat ,,eggs ,sidenote3 ,whites4 ,sidenote3 ,yolks4 ,place the whites on a flat dish1 being careful that not a particle of the yolk gets in4 ,add a pinch of salt1 and with a daisy beater held flat whip the whites with an upward motion to a stiff1 dry froth4 ,it will take but a very few minutes if the eggs are fresh and cold4 ,put the yolks in an earthen bowl1 and with a wooden or silver spoon beat them until a lemon color4 ,if sugar is used add it at this time1 and stir until the whole becomes light and creamy4 ,,how ,,to ,,line ,,tins ,,with ,,paper ,turn the tin bottom side up1 lay over it the paper1 and crease the circle for the bottom4 ,cut the paper in several places down to the circular mark1 fold it around the pan1 and cut away the paper that doubles over4 ,grease the paper1 and fit it neatly inside the pan1 leaving an inch of paper rising above the edge4 ,illustration3 ,,cake ,,tins ,,and ,,baking ,,sheet4 ,,how ,,to ,,grease ,,pans ,sidenote3 ,flouring tins4 ,warm the pan1 and with a brush spread evenly the lard or cottolene4 ,for flat tins to be used for small cakes1 brush them lightly with oil2 then with a paper or cloth rub them dry1 and sprinkle with flour4 ,jar them so the flour will completely cover them2 then turn over the tins1 and strike them against the table4 ,all the superfluous flour will fall1 leaving the tins lightly coated with flour4 ,this will give a clean surface to the bottom of the cake4 ,,how ,,to ,,bake ,,cake ,sidenote3 ,rising4 ,sidenote3 ,time4 ,the oven should be only moderately hot at first1 so that the cake can get heated through1 and can rise before forming a crust2 the heat should then be increased1 so that when the cake has been in the oven one half the time required for baking a light crust will be formed4 ,it should rise evenly1 and be smooth on top4 ,when it rises in a cone in the center it is because the oven is too hot1 and a crust has formed on the edges before it has had time to rise4 ,sometimes it rises on one side1 showing the oven is hotter on one side than the other1 in which case it should be turned or a screen interposed2 but it must be done with the greatest care4 ,moving or jarring the cake before the air-cells are fixed is almost sure to cause it to fall4 ,do not open the oven door for the first five minutes1 and then open and shut it very gently1 so as not to jar the cake4 ,cake takes from fifteen minutes to an hour to bake1 according to its kind and thickness4 ,a hotter oven is needed for a thin cake than for a thick one4 ,it is done when it shrinks from the pan1 and makes no singing noise2 or when a broom straw run into it comes out clean and smooth4 ,be sure the cake is done before removing it from the oven4 ,let it stand a few minutes in the tin1 and it will then come out easily4 ,always handle the cake carefully4 ,sidenote3 ,tests for the oven4 ,the following test for the oven is given by ,miss ,parloa4 ,put in a piece of white paper4 ,if at the end of five minutes the paper is a rich yellow color1 the oven is right for sponge-cake2 if light yellow1 it is too cool2 if dark brown1 too hot4 ,for pound or butter-cakes1 it should be light yellow at the end of five minutes4 ,for gingerbreads and thin rolled cakes1 it should be dark brown4 ,,mixing ,,sponge-,,cakes ,cream the yolks and sugar together4 ,add the flavoring and water2 then fold in the beaten whites1 and lastly the flour1 sprinkling it in1 and lightly folding1 not stirring it in4 ,if baking-powder is used1 it is mixed with the flour4 ,,mixing ,,cake ,,made ,,with ,,butter ,rub the butter until it is light and smooth4 ,add the sugar1 and stir until creamy4 ,if there is too much sugar to mix with the butter1 beat one half with the yolks of the eggs4 ,add the beaten yolks to the creamed butter and sugar4 7,if only a little butter is used melt it1 and add it to the yolks and sugar47 ,next add the flavoring1 and then the milk and flour alternately1 until all are in4 ,beat the batter a few minutes to give it fine grain2 then fold in the whipped whites of the eggs lightly4 ,if fruit is used1 flour and add it the last thing4 ,turn it into the pans1 and put it at once into a moderate oven4#dfe-99 ,,footnotes3 #dfe-99 ,cake made with butter needs to have the dough quite thick with flour1 as the butter when melted acts as a wetting4 ,,sponge-,,cake ,no4 #a #f eggs4 #c cupfuls of sugar4 #d cupfuls of flour4 #a cupful of cold water4 #b teaspoonfuls of baking-powder4 ,juice and grated rind of #a lemon4 #a_/d teaspoonful of salt4 ,in this cake the beaten whites are added last4 ,the baking-powder mixed with the flour is added to the yolks1 sugar1 and flavoring4 ,this is a good cake to use for layer-cakes or rolls4 ,it is sufficient for two loaves4 ,,sponge-,,cake ,no4 #b ,weigh any number of eggs2 take the same weight of sugar and one half the weight of flour2 the grated rind and juice of one lemon to five eggs4 ,for mixing this cake1 see the directions given above2 the mixture should be very light and spongy1 great care being used not to break down the whipped whites4 ,the oven should be moderate at first1 and the heat increased after a time4 ,the cake must not be moved or jarred while baking4 ,the time will be forty to fifty minutes1 according to size of loaf4 ,use powdered sugar for sponge-cake4 ,rose-water makes a good flavoring when a change from lemon is wanted4 ,almonds chopped fine mixed in the cake1 and also orange rind grated over the cake before it is frosted1 are good4 ,,sponge-,,cake ,no4 #c #aj eggs4 #a pound of powdered sugar4 #a_/b pound of flour4 ,juice and grated rind of #a_/b lemon4 ,beat the yolks and sugar together for at least half an hour4 ,it will not be right unless thoroughly beaten2 add the lemon1 then the whites beaten very stiff1 and the flour last2 sprinkle the top with sugar4 ,put it at once into a moderate oven4 ,this is a moist cake and has a thick crust4 ,,white ,,sponge1 ,,or ,,angel ,,cake ,whites of #f eggs4 #c_/d cupful of granulated sugar4 #a cupful of flour4 #a_/b teaspoonful of vanilla4 #a_/b teaspoonful of cream of tartar4 ,put the cream of tartar into the flour and sift it five or six times2 sift the sugar twice4 ,put a pinch of salt with the whites of the eggs and whip them very stiff2 add the sugar to the whipped whites1 placing it on the end of the platter and gradually beating it in from below2 add the flour in the same way1 and lastly add the flavoring4 ,do not stop beating after the mixing is begun1 and keep the mixture light4 ,bake it in a perfectly bright ungreased pan1 or one lined with paper2 a pan with a tube in the center is best4 ,bake in a moderate oven thirty to forty minutes4 ,do not move or jar it while it is baking4 ,try it with a broom-straw before removing it from the oven1 and do not let it get too deeply colored4 ,let it stand in the pan a few minutes1 then loosen it around the sides1 and it will fall out4 ,turn the cake upside down and ice the bottom and sides if desired4 ,the usual receipt is double the above quantities1 eleven eggs being used1 but this one gives a cake large enough to serve six people1 and as it should be used while it is very fresh1 it is better not to make more than enough to serve once4 ,it can be made with five eggs and is very good1 but not quite as spongy4 ,do not cut the cake1 but break it apart with two forks4#dfg-99 ,,footnotes3 #dfg-99 ,if baked too fast this cake will be tough4 ,it is well to set the cake-pan in a pan of water in the oven4 ,,sunshine ,,cake ,make the same as angel cake1 adding the beaten yolks of two eggs before putting in the flour4 ,,genoese ,,cake ,three eggs1 and the same weight of butter1 of sugar1 and of flour4 ,beat the butter and sugar together until very light and creamy2 add one saltspoonful of salt and flavoring 7one half teaspoonful of vanilla or almond1 or one tablespoonful of brandy72 then add the eggs one at a time and beat each one well before adding the next4 ,beat the mixture for fifteen to twenty minutes2 then stir in lightly the sifted flour and turn it into a pan1 filling it three quarters full4 ,this cake can be used for layers1 rolls1 canary pudding1 or can be cut into small forms for fancy cakes4 ,bake slowly about forty minutes4 ,,jelly ,,rolls ,make a layer of ,genoese1 or of sponge-cake ,no4 #a4 ,put the mixture on the layer tins in spoonfuls1 placing it around the edges2 then with a broad knife smooth it over toward the middle1 making it as even as possible4 ,another way is to press it through a pastry bag in lines onto the tins4 ,the layers should be only one half inch thick when baked1 and the crust should not be hard4 ,as soon as it is removed from the oven1 and before it has had time to cool1 cut off the hard edges1 spread it with currant1 or any jelly or jam1 and roll it up evenly2 then roll it in a paper and tie1 so it will cool in a round1 even shape4 ,,layer ,,cakes3 ,,chocolate1 ,,vanilla1 ,,coffee ,bake ,genoese or sponge-cake ,no4 #a 7one half the receipt will give three layers7 in round layer tins1 using three for each cake2 when baked spread two of them with filling and pile them one on the other4 ,trim the outside with a sharp knife so it will show a white even edge instead of crust4 ,cover the top with a soft royal icing made of confectioners' sugar and flavored the same as the filling4 ,,cream ,,filling ,beat well together the yolks of five eggs1 one half cupful of sugar1 and one heaping tablespoonful of cornstarch2 dilute it with two cupfuls of boiling milk1 and stir it over the fire until thickened2 then remove1 add the flavoring1 and let it cool4 ,if coffee flavoring is wanted1 use one half black coffee and one half milk4 ,if chocolate1 melt three or four ounces and add it to the custard4 ,,chocolate ,,filling ,melt four ounces of chocolate2 dilute it with three tablespoonfuls of milk1 and then add a cupful of sugar mixed with a well-beaten egg1 and stir until thickened4 ,,orange ,,cake ,whites of #i eggs4 #b cupfuls of granulated sugar4 #c heaping cupfuls of flour sifted three or four times4 #a cupful of butter4 #a cupful of milk4 #b teaspoonfuls of baking-powder4 #a teaspoonful of lemon-juice4 ,cream the butter2 add the sugar1 and beat for ten minutes2 add the milk1 and then add alternately the whipped eggs and the flour1 the baking-powder having been sifted with the flour2 add the lemon-juice last1 and mix all lightly4 ,bake in layer tins2 spread the layers with orange filling and frost the top with royal icing flavored with orange-juice and a little lemon4 ,,orange ,,filling ,beat the whites of two eggs to a stiff froth4 ,boil one and one quarter cupfuls of sugar with one half cupful of water to the small ball 7see page #eab74 ,pour the boiling sugar in a very fine stream onto the whipped whites1 beating hard all the time4 ,add the grated rind and juice of one orange and continue to beat until it is cold and the sugar is stiffened enough to place between the cakes without running4 ,,pistachio ,,cake ,make three layers of cake after the receipt given for orange cake4 ,make a cream filling as directed for layer cakes4 ,flavor it with orange-flower water and a little bitter almond1 to give the flavor of pistachio 7see page #cia71 and color it a delicate green4 ,frost the top with a soft royal icing 7page #dhd7 made of confectioners' sugar2 color it a delicate light green and sprinkle the top with chopped pistachio nuts4 ,this cake is rather soft and creamy1 and should not be cut before going on the table4 ,,plain ,,cup ,,cake #a_/b cupful of butter4 #a-a_/b cupfuls of sugar4 #a cupful of water or milk4 #c cupfuls of flour4 #b teaspoonfuls of baking powder4 #d eggs4 ,juice and rind of #a lemon4 ,beat the butter and sugar to a cream2 add the beaten yolks2 then add slowly the water and three quarters of the flour4 ,beat it a long time until very smooth and light2 then add the lemon and the rest of the flour in which the baking-powder is mixed2 beat well together1 and lastly add the whipped whites of the eggs4 ,bake in gem-pans1 putting a tablespoonful of the mixture into each pan4 ,raisins may be added to this cake1 or two ounces of melted chocolate may be used instead of the lemon-juice1 making it chocolate cake2 or it may be made into spice cakes by using two tablespoonfuls of molasses with enough water to give one cupful of liquid2 add also one half teaspoonful each of ground cloves1 cinnamon1 and allspice1 and a few currants if desired2 use one teaspoonful of soda instead of the baking-powder if molasses is used4 ,bake in a moderate oven about one half hour1 and see that the cakes rise evenly and are of the same size4 ,turn them out of the pans bottom side up1 and frost the bottom and sides with royal icing while they are still warm4 ,for chocolate or spice cakes1 use chocolate icing4 ,illustration3 ,,plain ,,cup ,,cakes ,,iced ,,and ,,small ,,piece ,,of ,,angelica ,,placed ,,in ,,center ,,of ,,each ,,cake4 ,,gold-,,and-,,silver ,,cake ,use the receipt given for plain cup cake4 ,divide the materials2 use the whites of the eggs with one part1 the yolks and one whole egg with the other4 ,bake in separate tins2 cut before serving2 arrange the slices with the two colors alternating on a lace paper4 ,,marble ,,cake ,make a mixture as directed for plain cup cake2 divide it into three parts2 color one with carmine1 another with melted chocolate 7one ounce71 and leave the third one white4 ,do this quickly1 so the baking-powder will not lose its force before going into the oven4 ,pour the mixtures into a tin1 alternating the colors twice2 they will run together and make a mottled cake4 ,,richer ,,cup2 ,,or1 #a1 #b1 #c1 #d ,,cake ,use one cup of butter1 two of sugar1 three of flour1 and four eggs1 and one half teaspoonful of vanilla4 ,mix as directed for butter-cake mixtures 7page #dfe74 ,,pound-,,cake ,use one pound each of butter1 sugar1 and flour2 ten eggs2 one quarter teaspoonful of mace and one half cupful of brandy4 ,mix as directed for butter-cake mixtures4 ,divide it into two loaves and bake in tins lined with paper forty to fifty minutes in a moderate oven4 ,this cake may be filled with sliced citron and raisins if desired1 or may have nuts mixed with it1 making a nut cake1 or some nuts may be sprinkled over the top before it goes in the oven4 ,,white ,,cake ,whites of #f eggs4 #c_/d cupful of butter4 #a-a_/d cupfuls of powdered sugar4 #b cupfuls of flour4 ,juice of half a lemon4 #a_/d teaspoonful of soda4 ,sift the soda with the flour three times2 cream the butter and add the flour to it2 whip the eggs to a stiff froth and add the sugar1 then beat them gradually into the butter and flour1 and add the lemon-juice4 ,when it is thoroughly mixed and smooth put it into a biscuit or flat tin1 so it will make a layer one and a half inches thick when done4 ,bake it in a moderate oven2 while it is still warm spread it with royal icing 7see page #dhc74 ,before the icing fully hardens1 mark two lines down the length of the cake1 dividing it into three sections1 then across in even lines1 giving slices one inch broad and about two and a half inches long2 to do this hold over it a straight edge and mark it with the back of a knife4 ,put into a pastry bag some of the frosting1 made a little stiffer with sugar1 and place two dots of icing on each slice4 ,this cake may be made with baking-powder1 using one teaspoonful and mixing it in the usual way4 ,it will then be a lighter cake and should be baked in a loaf2 the first gives a firm1 fine-grained cake4 ,,plain ,,fruit ,,cake #a #c_/d cupful of butter4 #b cupfuls of granulated sugar4 ,cream these together well4 #b #c eggs4 #a teaspoonful of allspice4 #c #a_/b teaspoonful of grated nutmeg4 #a_/c teaspoonful of ground cloves4 #a_/d teaspoonful of ground mace4 #d #a cupful of milk with #c_/d teaspoonful of soda dissolved in it4 #e #c cupfuls of sifted flour with #a teaspoonful of cream of tartar mixed in it4 #f #a cupful of sliced citron4 #b cupfuls of raisins4 ,mix the materials in the order given1 beating well each one before the next is added2 add part of the flour and the milk at the same time1 then the rest of the flour4 ,flour the fruit and add it last4 ,more fruit can be used if desired4 ,this will make one large or a dozen small cakes4 ,bake in a moderate oven about one hour if in one cake4 ,,brod ,,torte #i eggs4 #b-a_/b cupfuls of sugar4 #b cupfuls of bread-crumbs--,graham preferred4 #b teaspoonfuls of ground cinnamon4 ,citron size of small egg4 #c_/d cupful of blanched almonds4 ,grated rind of one lemon4 #a_/d cupful of brandy or rum4 #b-a_/b ounces of chocolate4 #a teaspoonful of ground allspice4 ,put into a bowl the bread-crumbs1 dried and pounded fine1 the citron and almonds both chopped fine1 the spices and lemon-rind and the chocolate grated fine2 mix them thoroughly and evenly together4 ,in a second bowl put the yolks of the nine eggs and whites of five with one and one half cupfuls of sugar4 ,beat them until quite stiff4 ,in a third bowl put the whites of four eggs2 beat them to a stiff froth2 then stir in the remaining cupful of sugar4 ,now gradually and lightly mix the dry ingredients of bowl ,no4 #a with ,no4 #b2 then add the whites from ,no4 #c4 ,lastly1 add the brandy or rum1 and quickly put it into the oven to bake for three quarters of an hour4 ,cover with chocolate icing1 and decorate with lines of white icing4 ,illustration3 ,,iced ,,cake ,,decorated ,,with ,,candied ,,cherries ,,cut ,,in ,,halves1 ,,angelica ,,cut ,,into ,,triangular ,,pieces1 ,,and ,a ,,scalloped ,,line ,,of ,,icing4 ,illustration3 ,,cake ,,covered ,,with ,,chocolate ,,icing ,,and ,,ornamented ,,in ,,center ,,with ,,lines ,,of ,,white ,,icing4 ,illustration3 ,,cake ,,ornamented ,,with ,a ,,medallion ,,in ,,center ,,formed ,,by ,a ,,ring ,,of ,,candied ,,plums ,,cut ,,in ,,quarters ,,and ,,stood ,,on ,,edge4 ,,the ,,center ,,of ,,the ,,circle ,,is ,,covered ,,with ,,boiled ,,icing ,,and ,,decorated ,,with ,,candied ,,cherries ,,and ,,angelica4 ,,the ,,cake ,,outside ,,the ,,medallion ,,is ,,brushed ,,with ,,white ,,of ,,egg ,,and ,,then ,,covered ,,with ,,blanched ,,almonds ,,cut ,,in ,,thin ,,slices4 ,,fruit ,,cake #a pound of flour4 #a pound of sugar4 #a pound of butter4 #a_/b pound of candied citron 7sliced74 #d pounds of currants4 #d pounds of raisins 7stoned and chopped74 #i eggs4 #a tablespoonful of ground cinnamon4 #a tablespoonful of mace4 #a tablespoonful of nutmeg4 #c gills of brandy4 ,mix the fruit together and flour it2 mix the spices with the sugar4 ,cream the butter and sugar2 add the beaten yolks1 then the whipped whites and the brandy1 then the flour1 and lastly the fruit4 ,put the mixture in two large tins lined with double paper1 and bake in a moderate oven for three hours4 ,if preferred1 add the sliced citron in layers as the mixture is poured into the pans4 ,one pound of chopped almonds may be substituted for one of the pounds of currants4 ,this cake will keep any length of time1 therefore the quantity may not be too great to make at one time4 ,,cream ,,cakes ,,and ,,eclairs ,these are made of cooked paste1 and are very easy to prepare4 ,the cream cakes differ from the eclairs only in form and in not being iced4 ,,cream ,,cakes #a cupful of water4 #a tablespoonful of sugar4 #b tablespoonfuls of butter4 #a-a_/b cupfuls of flour 7pastry flour preferred74 #c to #d eggs4 #a_/b saltspoonful of salt4 ,put the water1 sugar1 salt1 and butter in a saucepan on the fire4 ,when the butter is melted remove2 add to it the flour1 and beat until it is a smooth paste2 return it to the fire1 and stir vigorously until the paste leaves the sides of the pan2 then remove2 let it partly cool1 and then add the eggs1 one at a time1 beating each one for some time before adding the next4 ,when all are in1 beat until the batter is no longer stringy4 ,it should be consistent enough to hold its shape without spreading when dropped from the spoon on a tin4 ,three eggs make it about right unless they are very small or the flour very dry4 ,the batter is better if it stands for an hour or two before being used2 but this is not essential4 ,put the mixture into a pastry-bag with a tube of one half inch opening2 press the batter through into balls one and a half to two inches in diameter4 ,a spoon can be used1 but does not give the cakes as good shape4 ,brush the tops with egg4 ,put them in a slack oven and bake slowly for about forty minutes4 ,they will feel light when done1 and be puffed very high4 ,oil and flour the pans or baking-sheets as directed on page #dfd4 ,when the puffs are cool make an incision in the side and fill with cream filling as given for layer cakes1 page #dfh4 ,the whipped whites of the eggs may be added to this filling if it is wanted thinner and lighter4 ,these cakes are good made very small1 filled with jam and a little whipped cream1 and the tops dipped in sugar boiled to the crack1 then sprinkled with chopped burnt almonds4 ,,chocolate1 ,,vanilla1 ,,and ,,coffee ,,eclairs ,make a mixture as for cream cakes2 put it into a pastry-bag with a tube of three eighth inch opening4 ,press the batter onto tins 7floured as directed for cream cakes7 in strips three and one half inches long1 and a little distance apart1 the same as lady-fingers4 ,egg the tops and bake in a slack oven about thirty minutes4 ,cut open one side and fill with cream filling made the same as for cream cakes4 ,make a chocolate icing ,no4 #b 7page #dhe72 dip the eclairs into it1 covering them one half4 ,for vanilla or coffee eclairs use fondant icing1 page #dhe4 ,flavor the filling with vanilla or coffee1 the same as the icing4 ,,carolines ,make small eclairs two inches long1 using a tube with opening no larger than a pencil4 ,when baked run a wooden skewer through them1 leaving an opening at each end1 so the filling will go all the way through4 ,put the filling in a bag1 and press it through the carolines4 ,cover the top with fondant icing4 ,have the filling flavored with coffee4 ,,fancy ,,small ,,cakes ,,meringues ,,and ,,kisses ,add a half saltspoonful of salt to the whites of three eggs2 beat them1 and add gradually1 while whipping1 three quarters of a cupful of powdered sugar4 ,continue to beat until the mixture is smooth and firm enough to hold its shape without spreading when dropped in a ball2 add the flavoring of lemon-juice or any essence4 ,place the meringue in a pastry-bag and press it through a tube into balls of the size desired onto strips of paper laid on a board that will fit the oven4 ,with a wet knife flatten down the point on top left by the tube1 and sprinkle them with sugar4 ,put them into a very slack oven1 and let them dry for at least an hour2 then remove from the papers and either press in the bottoms or scoop out the soft center and turn them over to dry inside4 ,if small kisses1 it is better to give them plenty of time to dry1 so none of the center has to be taken out4 ,they can be removed to the warm shelf if the oven is giving them too much color4 ,they should be only slightly colored on top and dried all the way through4 ,for large meringues to be filled with cream1 use one and a half tablespoonfuls of meringue for each piece4 ,make them an oblong shape4 ,place them in an oven hot enough for cake and watch them closely until they have formed a light-colored crust2 then remove and take out the soft center or press in the bottom1 and turn them over to dry inside4 ,these meringues may be dried like the kisses1 but take longer time1 as they are larger4 ,when a board is not at hand the papers holding the meringues may be laid in biscuit-tins1 a second tin placed like a cover over the top1 and set on the shelf over the range for several hours4 ,this serves very well where the fire is too great for the ovens to be cool4 ,there is no difficulty in making meringues if the eggs are sufficiently whipped4 ,they soon become stiff when whipped after the sugar is in4 ,they must be dried rather than baked4 ,if the meringues stick to the paper turn them over1 slightly moisten the paper1 and it will soon come off4 ,make kisses small and stick two together with white of egg4 ,when very small they are good with a little jam or jelly between them4 ,large meringues can be filled with ice-cream or with whipped cream just before serving them1 and two placed together4 ,one quarter cupful of powdered sugar is needed for the white of each egg4 ,illustration3 #a4 ,,small ,,kisses4 7,,see ,,page #dge47 #b4 ,,madeleines--,,round1 ,,square1 ,,diamond-,,shaped1 ,,and ,,crescents1 ,,each ,,one ,,iced ,,and ,,garnished ,,with ,,piece ,,of ,,angelica ,,cut ,,the ,,same ,,shape ,,as ,,the ,,cake4 7,,see ,,page #dgg47 ,,lady-,,fingers #f eggs4 #a_/b pound or #a-a_/d cupfuls of powdered sugar4 #a_/d pound or #a cupful of sifted flour4 #a_/b saltspoonful of salt4 ,flavoring of vanilla1 lemon1 or orange-flower water4 ,beat the yolks and sugar to a light cream2 add the flavoring4 ,stir in lightly the flour and then the whites of the eggs whipped very firm2 the salt is added to the whites before being whipped4 ,have a sheet of paper on the baking-pan or sheet4 ,place the mixture in a pastry-bag1 and press it through a tube having an opening one half to three quarter inch wide4 ,have the strips four and a half inches long4 ,cut off the paste from the tube with a knife so the ends will be clean2 dust them with sugar and bake in a moderate oven ten to twelve minutes1 or until a light crust has formed4 ,the crust should not be colored4 ,when done1 stick two together1 using white of egg4 ,for ,biscuit ,balls4--,drop the mixture in balls one half inch in diameter1 and bake the same as fingers4 ,stick two together with a little jam between them4 ,,macaroons #a_/b pound of almonds4 ,whites of #d eggs4 #a-a_/d cupfuls of powdered sugar4 ,pound the blanched almonds to a paste1 adding a teaspoonful of rose-water to keep them from oiling2 add also the sugar1 a little at a time1 while pounding the almonds2 add a few drops of almond essence and the whipped whites of the eggs2 beat thoroughly together4 ,drop the mixture in balls one half inch in diameter on strips of paper1 using a pastry-bag4 ,if not stiff enough to hold their shapes without spreading1 add one tablespoonful of flour4 ,,cocoanut ,,balls ,,or ,,cones ,grate a cocoanut2 add to it half its weight of sugar2 then stir in the whipped white of one egg4 ,boll the mixture into balls or cones1 and bake in a moderate oven twenty to thirty minutes4 ,if the mixture is too soft to hold its shape1 add a very little flour4 ,,madeleines ,no4 #a ,make two thin layers of ,genoese cake 7page #dfg71 flavored with brandy2 place them together with a thin layer of jelly or jam between them4 ,cut the cake into fancy shapes1 such as diamonds1 squares1 circles1 and crescents1 having them not more than one and a quarter to one and a half inches in diameter1 and the same in thickness4 ,ice them with fondant 7see page #dhe71 flavored with ram1 kirsch1 or maraschino1 or vary the flavor for the different shapes2 or1 make the cakes of one layer one and a quarter inches thick1 and ice them on top and sides with royal icing or with fondant1 making it of different colors1 pink1 green1 chocolate1 white1 and flavor to correspond4 ,place in the center of each cake a currant1 bit of candied cherry1 piece of angelica1 or almond4 ,,madeleines ,no4 #b ,take a sponge-cake ,no4 #a1 or a ,genoese cake mixture1 and make it a little stiffer with flour 7enough batter can usually be saved from layer cake to make a few fancy cakes74 ,with a spoon or pastry-bag drop it in balls one half inch in diameter2 bake1 and place two together with a little jam or jelly between them4 ,cover them with soft royal icing2 have them all of the same color4 ,if green1 use pistachio flavor as directed1 page #cia1 and sprinkle the tops with chopped pistachio nuts2 if white1 with almonds2 if pink1 leave them plain1 and flavor with rose4 ,,little ,,pound-,,cakes ,use the ,genoese mixture with a few currants added1 or the plain pound-cake mixture4 ,bake in small tins one and a half inches in diameter2 take care that they rise evenly so they are flat on top4 ,ice the top only with any kind of icing4 ,illustration3 #a4 ,,small ,,pound ,,cakes ,,and ,,tins ,,in ,,which ,,they ,,were ,,baked4 #b4 ,,orange-,,quarter ,,cakes ,,and ,,baking ,,tin4 7,,see ,,page #dgh47 #c4 ,,shell-,,shaped ,,genoese ,,cakes ,,and ,,baking ,,tin4 ,,orange ,,quarters ,use the ,genoese or any butter-cake mixture1 making it quite stiff with flour2 flavor it with lemon- and orange-juice1 and add a little of the grated rind of orange4 ,drop a small tablespoonful of the cake mixture at intervals into the tin made for this cake 7see illustration71 and bake in a moderate oven2 cover the wedge-shaped sides of the cakes with soft royal icing flavored and colored with orange-juice4 ,,almond ,,wafers ,take one tablespoonful each of flour and powdered sugar and one half saltspoonful of salt4 ,sift them well together4 ,beat the white of one egg just enough to break it1 and add as much of it to the flour and sugar as it will take to make a creamy batter2 flavor with a few drops of almond essence4 ,grease the pans lightly and flour them as directed on page #dfd4 ,drop a half teaspoonful of the paste on the pan1 and with a wet finger spread it into a thin round wafer4 ,bake it in a very moderate oven until the edges are slightly browned1 then1 before removing from the oven door1 lift each wafer1 and turn it around a stick4 ,they stiffen very quickly1 and the rolling must be done while they are hot4 ,,venetian ,,cakes #a_/b cupful of butter4 #a_/b cupful of powdered sugar4 #a-a_/b cupfuls of pastry flour4 #a cupful of almonds4 #a teaspoonful of vanilla4 ,yolks of #c eggs4 ,cream the butter and sugar together until very light2 add the yolks well beaten2 then the almonds blanched and cut in strips2 mix2 add the vanilla and stir in lightly the flour4 ,the dough should be rather soft4 ,take a small piece at a time1 drop it in powdered sugar1 and roll it between the hands into a ball one inch in diameter4 ,put a piece of pistachio nut on the top4 ,place the balls a little distance apart on floured pans 7see page #dfd71 and bake in a moderate oven ten to fifteen minutes1 or to a pale color4 ,they will flatten in baking and have the shape of macaroons4 ,,gauffres ,this receipt was obtained in ,paris1 and makes the little cakes one sees for sale at all the ,french fetes1 and also on the sea-beaches1 where the vender calls so cheerily1 ,voici les plaisirs4 ,they are baked in a kind of small waffle-iron4 ,the plaisirs are rolled as soon as taken from the iron4 ,add a dash of salt to the whites of six eggs1 and whip them to a stiff froth4 ,put a half pound of flour in a bowl1 and add enough water to make a thin batter2 flavor it with vanilla1 then add the whipped whites of the eggs4 ,bake one gauffre to see if the batter is of the right consistency4 ,it should be very thin1 and water can be added until it is right4 ,have the iron hot1 and grease it well with butter or oil4 ,pour in the batter1 and let it run evenly into all the grooves2 close the iron1 and bake on both sides over hot coals4 ,the iron must be very clean1 smooth1 and well greased1 or the gauffres will stick4 ,dredge them with powdered sugar as soon as baked4 ,illustration3 ,,gauffre ,,iron4 7,,see ,,page #dgi47 ,,jumbles1 ,,cookies1 ,,and ,,plain ,,cakes ,,jumbles ,beat to a cream one cupful of butter with two cupfuls of sugar4 ,add three eggs1 the yolks and whites beaten separately2 then the flavoring4 ,stir in lightly enough flour to make a paste just firm enough to roll thin4 ,cut it into circles1 and with a smaller cutter stamp out a small circle in the middle1 leaving the jumbles in rings4 ,place them in a floured pan1 brush the tops with white of egg1 and sprinkle with pounded loaf sugar4 ,the sugar should be in small lumps4 ,bake in a moderate oven to a light color4 ,,sand ,,tarts ,make the mixture given for jumbles4 ,cut it into squares or diamonds1 place them in floured pans1 brush the top with white of egg4 ,sprinkle with granulated sugar mixed with ground cinnamon4 ,place a piece of blanched almond in the center of each one4 ,,rolled ,,jumbles ,make a mixture as directed for jumbles1 using only enough flour to make a thin batter4 ,drop a teaspoonful of batter for each cake on a floured pan4 ,in the oven it runs out into a thin cake1 so leave plenty of room for the batter to spread4 ,as soon as the edges begin to brown lift the cakes1 and at the oven door roll them around a stick4 ,leave them in the oven a few moments longer to dry4 ,,plain ,,cookies #a cupful of butter4 #b cupfuls of sugar4 #a cupful of milk4 #b eggs4 #a_/b teaspoonful of vanilla4 ,flour4 #b teaspoonfuls of baking-powder4 ,mix in the order given4 ,use enough flour to roll the dough thin4 ,cut it into circles1 and bake in a moderate oven4 ,brush the tops with white of egg1 and sprinkle them with sugar4 ,caraway seeds may be mixed with the dough1 or sprinkled over the tops if liked4 ,for soft cookies do not roll the dough so thin4 ,stamp them out with a fluted cutter1 and remove them from the oven as soon as baked1 not leaving them to dry as for crisp cookies4 ,,ginger ,,snaps ,put a half cupful of butter and a cupful of molasses on the fire2 as soon as the butter is softened remove them1 and add a half cupful of brown sugar1 a teaspoonful of ginger1 and a teaspoonful of soda dissolved in a little hot water2 then mix in enough flour to make a stiff dough4 ,roll it very thin1 and stamp it into circles4 ,,crullers ,beat three eggs together2 add four tablespoonfuls of sugar and four tablespoonfuls of melted butter or lard2 then enough flour to make a dough stiff enough to roll4 ,roll it a quarter of an inch thick4 ,cut it into pieces three and a half inches long and two inches broad4 ,cut two slits in each piece1 and give each one a twist4 ,fry the crullers in hot fat1 the same as doughnuts4 ,,doughnuts #b eggs4 #a cupful of sugar4 #a cupful of milk4 #d tablespoonfuls of melted butter4 ,flour enough to make a soft dough4 #a saltspoonful each of salt and ground cinnamon4 #a_/b teaspoonful of soda and #a teaspoonful of cream of tartar1 or #a teaspoonful of baking-powder4 ,roll the dough one inch thick4 ,cut it into small circles1 or rings1 or strips and twist them4 ,drop the cakes into smoking hot fat1 and fry to light brown2 drain1 and roll them in powdered sugar while still warm4 ,,bread ,,cake ,take a piece of raised bread-dough large enough for one loaf4 ,mix into it one tablespoonful of butter1 one cupful each of sugar1 raisins1 and currants2 one half teaspoonful each of ground cinnamon1 cloves1 and allspice4 ,let it rise1 which will take some time1 and bake the same as bread4 ,,one-,,egg ,,cake ,cream together a half cupful of butter and a cupful of sugar4 ,add a cupful of milk1 and one beaten egg2 then two cupfuls of flour mixed with two teaspoonfuls of baking-powder4 ,bake in a moderate oven4 ,,warren',s ,,cake #b eggs4 #a cupful of sugar4 #a cupful of flour4 #a_/b cupful of hot water4 #b teaspoonfuls of baking-powder4 ,beat the yolks and whites of the eggs together well1 add the sugar1 then the flour1 in which the baking-powder is mixed1 and lastly the water4 ,put it into the oven at once4 ,,molasses ,,wafers ,mix well together one cupful of butter1 one cupful of sugar1 two cupfuls of molasses1 and two cupfuls of flour4 ,drop a few spoonfuls into a pan1 in different places1 and put it in the oven2 it will melt and run together4 ,let it bake until it begins to harden on the edges2 then remove1 cut it into squares1 and while it is still hot and soft roll each piece around a stick4 ,,soft ,,gingerbread #a cupful of molasses4 #a tablespoonful of butter4 #a tablespoonful of boiling water4 #b to #c cupfuls of flour4 #a teaspoonful each of ginger1 ground cloves1 cinnamon1 and soda4 #a_/b saltspoonful of salt4 ,add the melted butter to the molasses1 then the spices4 ,dissolve the soda in the boiling water1 and stir it into the molasses4 ,add enough flour to make a very soft dough--too soft to roll4 ,bake in a biscuit-tin lined with paper1 in a moderate oven1 for thirty-five minutes4 ,mix it quickly and put it into the oven at once4 ,,molasses ,,cake ,put together two cupfuls of ,new ,orleans molasses and one cupful of butter1 and heat them enough to soften the butter2 remove from the fire1 and add a teaspoonful each of powdered ginger and cinnamon1 and one half teaspoonful of cloves1 then three well-beaten eggs4 ,when it is well mixed add alternately1 in small quantities1 three cupfuls of flour and one cupful of boiling water in which have been dissolved three teaspoonfuls of baking soda4 ,,icing ,,and ,,decorating ,,cakes ,,royal ,,icing ,place the white of an egg in a bowl or plate4 ,add a little lemon-juice or other flavoring1 and a few drops of water4 ,stir in powdered sugar until it is of the right consistency to spread4 ,while the cake is still warm pile the icing on the center of the cake1 and with a wet knife smooth it over the top and sides of the cake4 ,it will settle into a smooth and glossy surface4 ,if the icing is prepared before the cake is ready1 cover it with a wet cloth1 as it quickly hardens4 ,if it becomes too stiff add a few drops of water1 and stir it again4 ,color and flavor as desired4 ,one egg will take about a cupful of sugar1 and will make enough icing to cover one cake4 ,if a little more is needed add a little water to the egg1 and it will then take more sugar4 ,when icing is wanted for decorating a cake1 beat the whites to a froth1 then beat in the sugar instead of stirring it1 and continue to beat until it is firm enough to hold its form4 ,stirring more sugar into the unwhipped whites will make it firm enough for decorating1 but the whipped icing is better4 ,put it into a pastry-bag with small tube1 or into a paper funnel1 and press it through into any shapes desired4 ,a good icing is made of milk and sugar alone4 ,,royal ,,icing ,,with ,,confectioner',s ,,sugar ,make this icing the same as the other1 using confectioner's sugar1 which is finer than the powdered sugar1 and use a little water with the egg4 ,this makes a soft1 creamy icing2 the more water used1 the softer it will be4 ,if beaten instead of stirred it will become firm enough to hold in place without so much sugar being used1 but in this way it dries sooner and is not so creamy4 ,this is a good icing for layer cakes1 fancy cakes1 and eclairs4 ,,boiled ,,icing ,no4 #a ,put a cupful of sugar into a saucepan with one quarter cupful of boiling water and a half saltspoonful of cream of tartar2 stir till dissolved1 then let it boil without stirring until it threads when dropped from the spoon4 ,turn it in a fine stream onto the white of one egg whipped to a stiff froth4 ,beat the egg until the mixture becomes smooth and stiff enough to spread1 but do not let it get too cold4 ,pour it over the cake4 ,,boiled ,,icing ,no4 #b ,boil sugar as directed above to the soft ball2 then remove from the fire1 add the flavoring1 and stir it until it looks clouded1 and turn it at once over the cake4 ,,chocolate ,,icing ,no4 #a ,melt in a dry saucepan some chocolate2 dilute it with a little water and add enough powdered or confectioner's sugar to make it of the right consistency4 ,use it while warm1 as chocolate quickly hardens4 ,flavor it with vanilla4 ,,chocolate ,,icing ,no4 #b ,melt in a dry pan four ounces of ,baker's chocolate1 or of cocoa4 ,boil one and three quarter cupfuls of sugar with a cupful of water till it threads when dropped from the spoon1 the same as for boiled icing4 ,turn it slowly onto the chocolate1 stirring all the time4 ,use this icing for dipping eclairs and small cakes1 and for layer cakes4 ,chocolate icing loses its gloss when at all stale4 ,,chocolate ,,icing ,no4 #c ,melt one ounce of chocolate2 dilute it with two tablespoonfuls of milk2 add two tablespoonfuls of sugar and a quarter teaspoonful of butter2 stir till smooth and spread on the cake4 ,,icing ,,for ,,small ,,cakes ,stir into confectioner's sugar enough syrup of thirty degrees 7see page #eac7 to dissolve it2 add fruit-juice or liqueur to flavor it4 ,when ready to use1 heat it1 stirring all the time1 and stand it in a pan of hot water while the cakes are dipped into it4 ,,coffee ,,icing ,,for ,,eclairs ,make the same as the one given above1 using very strong coffee or coffee essence to color and flavor it4 ,use enough sugar to make a soft flowing icing1 and dip the cakes into it while it is hot4 ,,fondant ,,icing ,this is the best of all icings4 ,it is soft and glossy1 and is used especially for small cakes and eclairs4 ,if the fondant is already made1 it gives very little trouble4 ,to make fondant see page #ead4 ,it will keep in tight preserve jars any length of time4 ,fondant does not work so well after it has been melted two or three times1 therefore it is better to take only the amount to be used for one flavor or color at a time4 ,place it in a cup and stand it in a pan of boiling water4 ,stir the fondant constantly while it is melting1 or it will become a clear liquid4 ,it will soften at a low degree of heat2 add the flavoring and coloring and dip the cakes into it4 ,if it becomes too hard1 add a few drops of syrup at thirty-four degrees 7see page #eac74 ,when liqueurs are used for flavoring1 add a drop or two at a time only1 or they will dilute it too much4 ,should this occur1 add a little more fondant to the cup4 ,maraschino1 curacao1 kirsch1 orange-flower water1 rose1 almond1 and coffee essences make good flavorings for fancy-cake icings4 ,,garnishing ,,cakes ,,with ,,powdered ,,sugar ,sidenote3 ,in lines or squares4 ,the simplest of all garnishings is to sprinkle the cake with powdered sugar2 strips of paper can be laid over the cake before it is dusted1 so as to give lines or squares of white over the top2 stencils for this purpose are easily cut1 giving circles or diamonds4 ,,with ,,chopped ,,nuts ,sidenote3 ,almonds1 walnuts1 or pistachio nuts4 ,brush the cake with white of egg and then sprinkle with nuts chopped or sliced fine2 or the cake may be lightly coated with a red jelly or jam1 and then sprinkled with chopped nuts4 ,,with ,,colored ,,sugars ,cover the cake with royal icing1 and before it hardens sprinkle it with red and green colored sugar 7see page #cic74 ,it may be put on in dots or sprinkled evenly over the whole4 ,,with ,,two ,,colors ,loaf cake may be iced in sections of alternate colors4 ,to do this1 place a strip of stiff paper upright between the colors while spreading them1 and remove it carefully as soon as the icing is on4 ,this will give a clean1 sharp line4 ,cakes iced with chocolate or with boiled icing may be ornamented with fine lines of royal icing4 ,,to ,,decorate ,,in ,,designs ,sidenote3 ,to practise elaborate designs4 ,place royal icing in a pastry bag having a tube with small opening4 ,press the icing through slowly1 following any design one may have in view4 ,points may be pricked in the flat icing at regular intervals as a guide4 ,it requires some practice to acquire the facility for making very elaborate designs1 but straight lines1 dots1 and circles around the cake are easy to make1 and with these a great variety of combinations can be made4 ,tubes of various-shaped openings are made to give different forms to the icing pressed through them4 ,if one cares to practise making fancy decorations1 draw a design on a paper or slab and follow the lines with icing2 scrape off the icing when it is done1 and repeat the operation until familiar enough with the design to be able to make it without a guide4 ,,chapter ,,xxii ,,frozen ,,desserts ,,ice-,,creams1 ,,water-,,ices1 ,,parfaits1 ,,mousses1 ,,frozen ,,fruits1 ,,punches1 ,,and ,,sherbets ,frozen desserts are the most acceptable of any that can be presented in the summer-time1 and at any season they are served and expected at dinner entertainments4 ,sidenote3 ,comparative trouble and expense4 ,the trouble of making them is not greater than that of making any dessert of the same class1 and the expense no more than any dessert using the same amount of eggs and cream2 thus a plain ice-cream is the same as a custard1 a mousse the same as whipped cream1 etc4 ,parfaits are especially delicious creams1 and as they require no stirring while freezing are very quickly and easily made4 ,the freezing of ice-creams which require stirring is accomplished in twenty to twenty-five minutes1 and is much easier work than beating eggs for cake4 ,in fact1 the whole process of making ice-creams is easier than that of making cake1 but the latter is so generally practised that nothing is thought of it4 ,it will be the same with ice-cream if the habit is once formed4 ,they have the advantage over hot desserts that they require no attention at dinner-time4 ,,classification ,,of ,,ice-,,creams ,philadelphia ice-creams are cream sweetened1 flavored1 and stirred while freezing4 ,french ice-creams are custards of different degrees of richness stirred while freezing4 ,parfaits1 biscuits1 and mousses are whipped cream1 with or without eggs1 frozen without stirring4 ,water-ices are fruit-juices sweetened with sugar syrup1 stirred while freezing4 ,punches and sherbets are water-ices with liquors mixed with them either before or after they are frozen4 ,sidenote3 ,fancy creams4 ,these creams1 in different degrees of richness and with different flavorings1 give an infinite variety1 and their combinations and forms of molding give all the fancy ices4 ,,general ,,rules ,,for ,,making ,,ice-,,creams--,,to ,,prepare ,,ice-,,cream ,,mixtures ,sidenote3 ,the cream4 ,unless the cream is to be whipped it should be scalded1 as it then gives a smoother and better ice2 otherwise it has a raw taste4 ,it is scalded as soon as the water in the outside kettle boils4 ,if the cream is too much cooked it will not increase in bulk when stirred1 therefore do not boil the cream4 ,when whipped cream is used it should be very cold1 whipped to a stiff1 firm froth with a wire whip1 and the liquid which drains from it should not be used4 7,see whipping cream1 page #djh47 ,sidenote3 ,the sugar4 ,ices are much better when the sugar is added in the form of syrup4 7,see sugar syrup1 page #ejc2 and boiling syrup1 page #eac47 ,frozen fruits are smoother when sweetened with syrup1 and water-ices should be made of a thick syrup diluted with fruit-juice to #bj deg4 on the syrup gauge4 ,sidenote3 ,custards ,in custard creams the milk should be scalded1 and when a little cool stirred into the beaten yolks 7the whites of the eggs are not generally used74 ,the whole is then placed on the fire1 and stirred continually until it coats the spoon no longer4 ,the flavoring is then added1 and it is beaten until cold4 ,this makes it light and smooth1 and increases its bulk4 ,sidenote3 ,biscuits and parfaits4 ,for biscuits and parfaits the custard is made of sugar syrup and yolks of eggs cooked together until it coats the spoon1 and is then beaten until cold4 ,sidenote3 ,freezing4 ,sidenote3 ,time4 ,freezing4--,put the ice in a strong cloth or bag1 and pound it quite fine4 ,the finer the ice the quicker will be the freezing4 ,snow may be used in place of ice4 ,use one part of rock salt 7fine salt will not do7 to three parts of ice4 ,rock salt can be had at feed-stores when not found at grocers'4 ,place the can in the freezing pail with the pivot of the can in the socket of the pail1 have the cover on the can1 and a cork in the opening on top4 ,hold the can straight1 and fill around it three inches deep of ice2 then an inch of salt4 ,alternate the layers of ice and salt1 observing the right proportions1 until the packing rises to within an inch of the top of the can2 pack it down as solid as possible4 ,see that the can will turn1 and be careful not to lift it out of the socket4 ,take off the top of the can2 put in the paddle1 placing the pivot in the socket at the bottom2 then pour in carefully the ice-cream mixture1 which must be perfectly cold4 ,adjust the tops and crank1 and turn it for twenty to twenty-five minutes1 by which time the cream should be frozen4 ,the crank turns harder when the mixture has stiffened1 and it is not necessary to look in order to know it is frozen4 ,if the cream is frozen too quickly it will be coarse-grained4 ,to have it fine-grained it must be turned constantly1 and not frozen in less time than twenty minutes4 ,sidenote3 ,adding fruit1 nuts1 cream1 etc4 ,sidenote3 ,ripening4 ,packing4--,when the cream is frozen take off the crank and the top of the pail4 ,wipe carefully the top of the can1 and see that the ice and salt are well below the lid1 so none will get into the cream2 lift off the top1 take out the paddle1 and with a spoon or wooden spatula work down the cream4 ,if fruit1 whipped cream1 or anything is to be added to the cream1 put it in at this time and work it well together4 ,if the cream is to be molded1 remove and place it in the molds2 if not1 smooth the top1 and make the cream compact with a potato masher4 ,replace the top1 put a cork in the opening of the lid1 draw off the water in the pail by removing the cork from the hole in the side of the pail1 add more ice and salt4 ,cover it with a heavy cloth1 and let it stand until ready to use4 ,the cream ripens or becomes blended by standing1 so should be made before the time for serving4 ,look at it occasionally to see that the water does not rise above the opening of the can4 ,if properly watched1 and if the packing is renewed as required1 the cream can be kept for any length of time4 ,sidenote3 ,molding4 ,sidenote3 ,precaution4 ,molding ,ice-,creams4--,put the frozen ice-cream into the mold1 filling it entirely full2 press it down to force out any air bubbles4 ,rub butter around the edge where the lid fits on4 ,lay a wet thin paper over the top1 and put on the lid4 ,fill the edges around the lid with butter or lard4 ,this will harden1 and make the joints tight4 ,too much care cannot be taken to prevent the salt water leaking into the mold4 ,imbed the mold in ice and salt for from one to six hours4 ,mousses require four to six hours1 and parfaits two to three hours4 ,watch to see that the water does not rise above the lid of the mold1 and draw it off when necessary4 ,illustration3 ,,ice-,,cream ,,molds ,,in ,,brick ,,forms ,,and ,,individual ,,lead ,,molds4 ,sidenote3 ,bombs4 ,sidenote3 ,panachee4 ,sidenote3 ,neapolitan4 ,sidenote3 ,individual creams4 ,sidenote3 ,freezing box4 ,fancy ,molding4--,when two or more kinds of creams are to be combined in the same mold1 first place the mold in ice and salt2 line it an inch or more thick with one kind of cream1 and fill the center with a cream of different flavor and color4 ,these are called bombs4 ,or1 place two or more kinds in even layers4 ,where two colors are used they are panachee2 if three1 they are neapolitan4 ,if the colors are to run in vertical strips1 which is desirable in pyramidal molds1 cut a piece of stiff paper or cardboard to the shape of the mold2 fill each side with a different cream1 and then withdraw the paper4 ,arrange layers of creams so that when unmolded the most solid one will be at the bottom1 as it has the weight of the others to sustain2 for instance1 do not put water-ices or parfaits under ,french creams4 ,biscuits are put into paper boxes1 and individual creams into lead molds4 ,the latter must be thoroughly chilled1 then filled according to fancy or color suitable to the form4 ,they are then closed1 and put into a freezing-box1 or into a pail1 the joints of the pail tightly sealed with butter1 and packed in ice and salt4 ,a freezing-box with shelves is desirable to have for these creams1 but a lard-pail answers very well for a small number of molds1 as the lid fits over the outside1 and so can be made tight4 ,molds packed in this way require to stand longer than those which come in direct contact with the ice and salt4 ,sidenote3 ,decorating4 ,the individual creams have to be frozen very hard1 and when unmolded should be brushed with a little color to simulate the fruit or flower they represent4 ,thus1 a peach or a pear would be of ,french cream1 which is yellow in color1 and the sides brushed with a little diluted cochineal to give pink cheeks1 and a piece of angelica stuck in to represent a stem4 ,a flower would be molded in white cream1 and the center made yellow4 ,a mushroom stem would be dipped in powdered cocoa1 etc4 ,individual creams are perhaps too difficult for an amateur to undertake1 and hardly repay the trouble when so many ornamental creams are more easily made4 ,sidenote3 ,unmolding4 ,to ,unmold ,creams4--,dip the mold into cold water2 wipe it dry and invert it on the dish4 ,if it does not come out at once let it stand a moment1 or wring a cloth out of warm water1 and wipe quickly around the mold4 ,this must be done quickly1 or the sharp edges of the molded cream will be destroyed4 ,with parfaits and mousses it is better not to use a hot cloth1 as they melt very easily4 ,it destroys the attractiveness of ices to have the dish swimming in melted cream1 or to have the mold soft and irregular in shape1 which partial melting produces4 ,hence the unmolding of creams requires great care4 ,ornamental ,creams4--,a plain ring-mold of ice-cream in any color can be made an ornamental cream1 by filling the center with berries or with whipped cream for sauce4 ,the whipped cream may be colored to give pleasing contrast4 ,for instance1 a white ice-cream-ring filled with pink whipped cream and a few pink roses laid on one side of the dish1 or a ring of pistachio ice-cream filled with white whipped cream or with strawberries1 and a bunch of green leaves laid on one side of the dish4 ,illustration3 ,,ice-,,cream ,,molded ,,in ,a ,,ring ,,mold1 ,,the ,,center ,,filled ,,with ,,whipped ,,cream ,,colored ,,pink1 ,,and ,,the ,,dish ,,garnished ,,with ,,pink ,,roses ,,and ,,leaves4 ,sidenote3 ,melon cream4 ,a melon mold may be lined with pistachio ice-cream1 the center filled with pink ice-cream mixed with a few small chocolates to represent seeds1 or with ,french ice-cream1 which is yellow1 and mixed with blanched almonds4 ,the surface of the melon when unmolded is sprinkled with chopped browned almonds to simulate a rind4 ,this dish may be garnished with leaves4 ,sidenote3 ,spun sugar4 ,spun sugar can be employed to ornament any form of cream4 ,it may be spread over or be laid around it1 and makes a beautiful decoration4 ,individual ,creams1 representing eggs or snow-balls1 can be served in a nest of spun sugar4 ,glace grapes or oranges can be arranged on the same dish with individual creams representing peaches and pears1 the whole lightly covered with a little spun sugar4 ,sidenote3 ,combinations4 ,individual ice-creams1 representing roses1 can be held by artificial stems1 stuck into a rice socle1 with natural roses and leaves interspersed1 giving the effect of a bouquet4 ,individual creams are also served in baskets of nougat or of pulled candy4 ,the baskets can be ornamented by tying a bunch of roses with a ribbon on the handle4 ,individual creams representing strawberries are served on flat baskets1 or piled on a flat dish and trimmed with natural leaves4 ,forms of ice-cream representing animals and vegetables are in questionable taste1 and are not recommended4 ,attention is called to the following creams given in the receipts1 which are especially good3 ,the coffee and the chocolate pralinee4 ,the white ice-cream1 plain or mixed with candied or preserved chestnuts1 or with candied fruits cut into dice4 ,the maple parfait1 which is quite new4 ,fruit ice ,no4 #b4 ,chocolate mousse4 ,maraschino1 curacao1 and noyau make delicious flavorings for cream4 ,,receipts ,,for ,,ice-,,creams ,,and ,,ices ,,vanilla ,,ice-,,creams ,,no4 #a4 ,,philadelphia ,,ice-,,cream #a quart of cream4 #a_/b pound1 or #a cupful1 of sugar4 #a vanilla bean or #a tablespoonful of vanilla extract4 ,if the cream is very rich dilute it with a little milk1 or the ice-cream will be too rich1 and also it may form fine particles of butter while being stirred4 ,put the cream and the sugar into a double boiler and scald them2 when they are cold add the flavoring4 ,if a vanilla bean is used it should be infused with the cream when it is scalded4 ,freeze and pack as directed in general directions1 page #dij4 ,,note4--,plain vanilla ice-cream is very good served with hot chocolate sauce4 ,page #ddg4 ,,no4 #b4 ,,american ,,ice-,,cream 7,,very ,,plain7 #a quart of milk4 #a cupful of sugar4 #c whole eggs1 #a tablespoonful of vanilla4 ,scald the milk4 ,beat the eggs and sugar together2 stir the scalded milk into them slowly2 replace on the fire in a double boiler and stir constantly until the custard coats the spoon2 do not let it boil1 or it will curdle4 ,beat it for a little while after taking it off the fire4 ,when it is cold add the flavoring1 and freeze it as directed at head of chapter4 ,cream will improve this mixture1 even if it be only a few spoonfuls4 ,more eggs1 also1 will give a richer ice-cream4 ,when the cream is frozen remove the dasher1 press the cream down with a potato-masher to smooth the top and make it compact1 and leave it in the freezer until time to serve4 ,a few raisins1 thin slices of citron1 or a little fresh or preserved fruit may be mixed in when the dasher is removed1 and will much improve the cream4 ,,no4 #c4 ,,french ,,ice-,,cream #a pint of milk4 #a pint of cream4 #a cupful of sugar4 #f egg-yolks4 #a tablespoonful of vanilla extract or of powder1 or #a vanilla bean4 ,scald the pint of milk in a double boiler4 7,it is scalded when the water in the outside kettle boils74 ,beat the yolks and sugar together until light and smooth4 ,stir the scalded milk slowly into the beaten eggs and sugar4 ,put this into a double boiler and cook1 stirring constantly until it thickens enough to coat the spoon4 ,do not let it boil or cook too long1 or it will curdle4 ,if a vanilla bean is used it should be cut in two lengthwise and infused with the scalded milk4 ,remove the custard from the fire2 add the cream and the flavoring and stir until it is partly cooled4 ,when cold freeze it as directed at head of chapter4 ,,note #a4--,this makes a solid1 fine-grained cream4 ,it can be made with one quart of cream instead of half milk1 and eight to ten eggs may be used instead of six4 ,the richness depends upon the amount of cream1 and the solidity upon the number of yolks used4 ,,note #b4--,with the whites of the eggs make an angel cake1 or keep them until next day1 and make an angel cream 7page #dig71 or an angel parfait 7page #eje74 ,,chocolate ,,ice-,,cream ,use either of the receipts given for vanilla creams1 according to the richness and quality of cream desired2 add to the custard while it is hot four ounces of melted chocolate4 ,to melt the chocolate break it into small pieces2 place it in a small saucepan on the side of the range where the heat is not great4 ,when it is melted add a very little milk or custard to dilute and smooth it before adding it to the ice-cream mixture4 ,freeze and pack as directed at head of chapter4 ,,caramel ,,ice-,,cream ,no4 #a #a pint of milk4 #a pint of cream4 #c whole eggs4 #a-a_/b tablespoonfuls of scraped chocolate4 ,caramel4 ,scald the milk2 add it slowly to the beaten eggs2 add the chocolate1 and cook in a double boiler1 stirring constantly until the custard coats the spoon2 then add the hot caramel4 ,when the mixture is perfectly cold add the cream1 whipped1 and freeze4 ,see general directions4 ,to make the caramel1 put a cupful of sugar with a half cupful of water into a saucepan2 stir until the sugar is dissolved2 then1 without touching1 let it cook until a golden color--not longer1 or it will blacken4 ,this is the caramel stage1 and registers on the thermometer #cde deg4 7see page #eab74 ,,caramel ,,ice-,,cream ,no4 #b ,add the hot caramel to any of the mixtures given for vanilla creams1 omitting the sugar and vanilla4 ,the caramel supplies both sweetening and flavoring4 ,it must be mixed with the custards while hot1 as it quickly hardens1 and will not then dissolve4 ,,coffee ,,ice-,,cream ,no4 #a ,to any of the receipts given for vanilla cream add a half cupful of black coffee1 and omit the vanilla4 ,,coffee ,,ice-,,cream ,no4 #b #a quart of milk4 #a quart of cream4 #a_/b cupful of very black coffee4 #a-a_/b cupfuls of sugar4 #a_/b ounce of isinglass soaked for half an hour in a little of the cold milk4 ,scald the milk2 add the coffee and isinglass and sugar4 ,when it is cold add the cream1 whipped1 and freeze4 ,,white ,,or ,,angel ,,ice-,,cream ,whites of #f eggs4 #a cupful of powdered sugar4 #a pint of cream4 ,italian meringue made of the whites of #b eggs and #a tablespoonful of hot syrup4 #b tablespoonfuls of noyau or of orange-flower water4 ,break the whites of the eggs1 but do not beat them to a froth2 stir into them the cupful of powdered sugar1 and then add the cream4 ,place it in a double boiler1 and stir until it is scalded1 but do not let it boil2 remove from the fire and stir until it is cold1 to make it light4 ,when it is cold add the flavoring1 and freeze4 ,when it is frozen remove the dasher1 stir in the ,italian meringue1 turn it into a mold1 and pack in ice and salt for two or three hours4 ,this cream requires a little longer to freeze than the other creams4 ,,italian ,,meringue ,whip the whites of eggs to a stiff froth2 beat into them slowly some boiling syrup cooked to the ball4 ,this cooks the eggs enough to prevent their separating4 ,the syrup is made by boiling sugar and water until1 when a little is dropped into cold water1 it will form a ball when rolled between the fingers4 ,,rice ,,ice-,,cream ,cook a cupful of rice until very soft4 ,have the juice of a lemon in the water in which the rice is boiled4 ,when the rice is steamed dry1 cover it with a thick sugar syrup and let it stand for an hour or more4 ,drain off the syrup1 add a half pint of cream1 whipped 7this may be omitted if preferred72 stir this into vanilla cream ,no4 #a or #c1 or with angel ice-cream after it is well frozen4 ,mold and pack in ice and salt for one or two hours4 ,,pistachio ,,ice-,,cream ,blanch two ounces of pistachio nuts2 this is done by pouring over them boiling water3 after a few minutes the skins can be easily removed4 ,pound the nuts in a mortar to a smooth paste1 using a little cream to prevent their oiling4 ,add this quantity of nuts to one quart of vanilla cream mixture ,no4 #c2 color it green1 the shade of green peas2 flavor with a little orange-flower water1 then freeze4 ,when nuts are not obtainable1 the flavor of pistachio can be produced with orange-flower water and a very little bitter almond4 ,,neapolitan ,,ice-,,cream ,this cream is molded in brick form in three layers of different flavors and colors4 ,make a cream after the receipt for vanilla cream ,no4 #c1 using eight or ten yolks1 as it should be solid and of fine grain2 omit the vanilla flavoring4 ,have a pail packed in ice2 when the cream is frozen1 remove one third of it to the pail and stir in quickly a little vanilla1 using the vanilla powder if convenient2 put this into the brick-shaped mold1 also packed in ice1 and smooth it down to an even layer4 ,take from the freezer one half of the cream remaining in it and put it into the pail2 stir into it one ounce of melted chocolate diluted and made smooth with a little cream or milk4 ,place the chocolate cream in an even layer on the layer of vanilla cream4 ,to the cream remaining in the freezer add an ounce of pistachio nuts1 prepared as directed in receipt for pistachio cream2 color it green and add it to the mold for the third layer4 ,seal the joints of the mold with butter to make it very tight1 as directed for molding1 page #dia4 ,pack in ice and salt for several hours4 ,the molding of this cream must be done quickly1 but with care to have the layers even4 ,strawberry ice is often used for one of the layers instead of chocolate cream4 ,,nesselrode ,,pudding #a cupful of ,french chestnuts4 #a cupful of granulated sugar4 ,yolks of #c eggs4 #a_/b pint of cream4 #a_/d pound of mixed candied fruits4 #a cupful of almonds4 #a_/b can of pineapple 7drained74 #a-a_/b tablespoonfuls of maraschino1 or #b tablespoonfuls of sherry4 #a_/b teaspoonful of vanilla sugar1 or #a_/d teaspoonful of vanilla extract4 #a4 ,remove the shells from the chestnuts2 put them in boiling water for three minutes1 then into cold water1 and take off the skins4 ,boil the blanched chestnuts until tender4 ,take one half of them and press them through a sieve4 ,they will go through more easily while hot4 #b4 ,blanch the almonds2 chop them fine and pound them4 #c4 ,cut the candied fruits and the chestnuts into dice2 pour over them the maraschino and let them stand until ready to use4 #d4 ,put into a saucepan on the fire a cupful of granulated sugar and one quarter cupful of boiling water2 stir until the sugar is dissolved1 then let it cook slowly for five minutes1 making a sugar syrup4 #e4 ,beat the yolks of three eggs until light4 ,pour onto them slowly1 stirring all the time1 the sugar syrup2 place them on the fire and stir constantly until the mixture is enough thickened to coat the spoon and has the consistency of thick cream4 ,remove it from the fire1 turn it into a bowl1 and beat it until it is cold4 ,when it is cold add a half pint of cream1 the mashed chestnuts1 the pounded almonds1 and the vanilla flavoring1 and freeze it4 ,when it is frozen remove the lid of the freezer1 add the fruits1 replace the lid1 and turn the freezer for another five minutes4 ,put the cream into a fancy mold and pack in ice and salt until ready to use4 ,serve with it whipped cream1 or the sauce given below for plum pudding glace flavored with maraschino4 ,this makes a quart of cream1 and1 being very rich1 is enough to serve to ten persons4 ,gouffe gives the receipt for this pudding1 which he says he obtained from the chef of ,count ,nesselrode4 ,he omits the grated almonds1 and uses stoned raisins and currants instead of candied fruits4 ,when the cream is half frozen he adds a half pint of whipped cream4 ,the raisins and currants are boiled until plump and added after the cream is frozen1 but before it is packed4 ,,plum ,,pudding ,,glace ,make a chocolate ice-cream as directed on page #dif1 using the ,french ice-cream mixture4 ,have a scant three quarters of a pound of mixed fruit1 composed of seeded raisins and currants boiled until plump1 thin slices of citron1 a few candied cherries and apricots if convenient4 ,pour over them a little sherry and let them stand long enough to be a little softened4 ,when the cream is frozen1 drain the fruit and mix it into the cream1 turning the dasher for a few minutes to get it well mixed and again hardened4 ,place it in a melon mold and pack in ice and salt4 ,this will make about two quarts of cream4 ,serve with a sauce placed around it on the same dish4 ,the sauce may be whipped cream flavored with a little kirsch or brandy1 or a sauce made as follows4 ,,sauce ,,for ,,plum ,,pudding ,,glace ,,or ,,for ,,nesselrode ,,pudding ,beat the yolks of two eggs with two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar to a cream4 ,stir it over the fire in a double boiler until the egg is a little thickened1 but not hard4 ,continue to beat the egg until it is cold4 ,it will then be light and creamy2 add a tablespoonful of brandy1 or of kirsch1 or of rum1 or of maraschino2 and then mix in lightly a half pint of cream whipped to a dry1 stiff froth4 ,,tutti-,,frutti ,make a ,french vanilla ice-cream1 page #die4 ,cut into small dice four ounces each of candied cherries1 apricots1 and plums2 and other fruits may be used if desired4 ,let them soak until a little softened in maraschino1 or kirsch1 or sherry4 ,when the cream is frozen1 stir in the salpicon of fruit1 drained2 replace the lid of the freezer and turn it for five minutes4 ,turn it into a fancy mold and pack in ice and salt until ready to use4 ,the angel ice-cream1 page #dig1 may be used instead of the vanilla ,no4 #c if preferred4 ,serve with the ,tutti-,frutti a sauce of whipped cream flavored with kirsch1 maraschino1 or sherry4 ,,fruit ,,ice-,,creams ,no4 #a4 ,berries1 or any kind of larger fruit cut into small pieces1 may be added to any of the vanilla creams after they are frozen4 ,remove the paddle of the freezer1 mix the fruit in well1 then mold and pack in ice and salt for one or two hours4 ,the fruit will become too solid if packed for a long time4 ,no4 #b4 ,crush any fruit or berries to a pulp4 ,sweeten it to taste with a thick sugar syrup 7#cb deg4 on the syrup gauge74 ,freeze the same as any ice cream1 and pack in ice and salt if molded4 ,this makes a delicious ice4 ,sugar may be used instead of syrup for sweetening1 but the latter gives a better result4 ,no4 #c4 ,using canned fruit4 ,strain the liquor from the fruit2 sweeten it if necessary with sugar or with syrup4 ,mix it with an equal quantity of cream1 and freeze4 ,when it is frozen add the drained fruit4 ,mix it well together4 ,mold and pack in ice and salt for one or two hours4 ,the fruit will become hard if it is packed too long4 ,preserved strawberries are a particularly good fruit to use for ice-cream4 ,,note4--,strawberries1 raspberries1 cherries1 peaches1 apricots1 plums1 pineapple1 bananas1 and oranges are the fruits generally used for ices and creams4 ,,fruit ,,puddings ,no4 #d4 ,line a mold one or one and a half inches thick with vanilla ice-cream2 fill the center with fresh strawberries1 raspberries1 whortleberries1 peaches1 bananas1 or any fruit4 ,cover the top with cream4 ,pack in ice and salt for two hours4 ,the fruit may be mixed with whipped cream1 if convenient1 when it is put in the center of the mold4 ,whipped cream may also be served as a sauce with this cream4 ,,nut ,,ice-,,creams ,vanilla ice cream ,no4 #c1 also angel ice-cream1 is good with chopped nuts mixed with it after it is frozen and before it is packed4 ,boiled chestnuts cut into small pieces1 chopped ,english walnuts1 filberts1 pecan nuts1 or almonds may be used4 ,almonds should be blanched1 chopped1 and browned2 and a caramel or an almond flavoring is better than vanilla for the cream when almonds are used4 ,,parfaits ,this class of ice-creams is very easily made1 as they are not stirred while freezing4 ,the yolks of eggs are cooked with sugar syrup to a thick smooth cream1 then flavored and beaten until cold and light1 and mixed with drained whipped cream4 ,they are then simply put into a mold and packed in ice and salt for three or four hours1 according to size of mold4 ,they are not solid like the custard ice-creams1 but have a sponge-like texture4 ,they should not be frozen too hard4 ,it is because they have no water in them to crystallize that they do not require to be stirred while freezing4 ,,sugar ,,syrup ,put two cupfuls of sugar and a half cupful of water into a saucepan on the fire4 ,stir until the sugar is dissolved1 then let it cook slowly without touching it for about ten minutes1 or until it is a clear syrup4 ,the syrup can be made in larger quantities and kept in preserve jars ready for use4 ,to keep well it should be boiled to a rather thick consistency1 or should register #cb deg4 on the syrup gauge4 ,for parfaits it should be thinner or register #bj deg44 ,for water ices it should register #cb deg4 7see boiling sugar1 page #eac74 ,in using syrups by measure1 articles may be too much sweetened if the right degree is not designated2 but if one has not a syrup gauge the sweetening must be determined by taste4 ,all classes of ice-creams are better sweetened with syrup than with sugar4 ,it seems to give them more smoothness and delicacy4 ,,vanilla ,,parfait ,beat the yolks of eight eggs until light2 add one cupful of syrup4 ,place the mixture on a slow fire and stir constantly until the eggs have thickened enough to make a thick coating on the spoon4 ,turn it into a bowl and beat it with a whip until it is cold2 it will then be very light4 ,if a vanilla bean is used for flavoring1 infuse it with the syrup2 if the extract is used add a teaspoonful of it to the custard when it is taken from the fire4 ,when the custard is cold add a pint of cream whipped to a stiff froth4 7,if any liquid has drained from the cream do not let it go in47 ,stir these lightly together2 turn the mixture into a mold holding three pints4 ,pack in ice and salt for four hours4 ,make the joints of the mold very tight as directed for molding at head of chapter4 ,this cream can be varied by using different flavorings in place of the vanilla3 a tablespoonful of curacao or of noyau1 two ounces of chocolate melted and smoothed with a little cream1 etc41 etc4 ,,maple ,,parfait ,this is made the same as the vanilla parfait1 using maple syrup in place of the sugar syrup1 and omitting the vanilla flavoring4 ,maple syrup may be made by adding water to maple sugar and cooking it to the right consistency4 ,,parfait ,,au ,,cafe ,,and ,,cafe ,,praline ,put the yolks of five eggs into a saucepan2 beat them light2 add three tablespoonfuls of sugar syrup and four tablespoonfuls of strong black coffee4 ,stir the mixture over a slow fire until it is enough thickened to make a thick coating on the spoon4 ,turn it into a bowl and beat it until it is cold and light4 ,if making coffee praline1 add three tablespoonfuls of praline powder 7see below74 ,mix in lightly a pint of cream whipped to a stiff froth4 ,if any liquid has drained from the cream do not let it go in4 ,turn the mixture into a mold holding three pints and pack in ice and salt for four hours4 ,,chocolate ,,parfait ,,and ,,chocolate ,,praline ,put the yolks of five eggs into a saucepan2 beat them until light2 add three tablespoonfuls of sugar syrup4 ,cook over a slow fire1 stirring constantly until it makes a thick coating on the spoon4 ,turn it into a bowl2 add two ounces of melted unsweetened chocolate and beat until it is cold and light4 ,if making chocolate praline1 add three tablespoonfuls of praline powder2 stir in lightly a pint of cream whipped to a stiff froth4 ,if any liquid has drained from the cream do not let it go in4 ,pack in ice and salt for four hours4 ,this makes three pints of cream4 ,,praline ,,powder ,put one and a half cupfuls of sugar and a half cupful of water into a saucepan on the fire2 stir until the sugar is well dissolved2 then add a cupful of shelled almonds and a cupful of shelled filberts without removing the skins4 ,let it cook1 without touching1 until it attains a golden color1 the caramel stage4 ,turn it onto a slab or oiled dish4 ,when it is cold pound it in a mortar to a coarse powder4 ,keep the praline powder in a close preserve jar ready for use4 ,,angel ,,parfait ,whip the whites of three eggs to a stiff froth4 ,put a half cupful of sugar and a half cupful of water into a saucepan on the fire4 ,stir until the sugar is dissolved1 then let it cook slowly1 without touching1 to the ball1 or until a little dropped into cold water will form a ball when rolled between the fingers4 ,pour three tablespoonfuls of the boiling-hot syrup slowly onto the whipped whites1 beating constantly4 ,add a teaspoonful of vanilla1 or of maraschino1 or of sherry1 or of noyau1 or any other flavoring4 ,when the ,italian meringue is cold1 add a pint of cream whipped to a stiff froth4 ,do not let any liquid that has drained from the cream go into the mixture4 ,mold and pack in ice and salt for four hours4 ,,imperatrice ,,of ,,rice ,,pudding ,,glace ,boil a scant half cupful of rice in milk and water as directed for boiling rice1 page #bbb1 so each grain will be separate2 but it must be quite soft1 so boil it half an hour4 ,this will make a cupful of rice when boiled4 ,whip half a pint of cream to a stiff froth2 mix into it four tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar and one tablespoonful of noyau or any flavoring desired2 mix the rice lightly with the whipped cream4 ,turn it into a mold1 and as quickly as possible pack it2 leave it in the ice and salt for three hours4 ,this gives about a quart of cream4 ,,parfaits ,,of ,,chestnuts1 ,,candies1 ,,fruits1 ,,fresh ,,fruits1 ,,or ,,berries ,make a vanilla parfait as directed1 page #ejc4 ,when the mixture is ready to go in the mold add a cupful of boiled chestnuts1 or marrons glace1 or of mixed candied fruits cut into dice4 ,roll them in powdered sugar so each piece will be dry and separate and not sink to the bottom4 ,stir them in quickly and pack the mold as quickly as possible after the fruit is mixed in4 ,when fresh fruits or berries are used crush the fruit2 strain off the juice2 add enough powdered sugar to the pulp to make it of the same consistency as the whipped cream4 ,pack in ice and salt for three hours4 ,,biscuits ,,glace ,make a syrup of one cupful of sugar and a quarter cupful of water4 ,beat the yolks of four eggs2 add to them three quarters of a cupful of syrup and a half cupful of cream or milk4 ,place the mixture on the fire and cook1 stirring constantly until it makes a thick coating on the spoon4 ,turn it into a bowl2 place it on the ice1 and beat it until it is cold and quite stiff and light2 then fold in lightly a pint of cream whipped to a stiff froth4 ,if any liquid has drained from the cream do not let it go in4 ,for flavoring infuse a vanilla bean with the syrup1 or add a teaspoonful of vanilla extract1 or of maraschino1 or any flavoring desired1 to the custard when it is taken from the fire4 ,put the mixture into paper boxes2 sprinkle over the top some chopped browned almonds or some macaroons rolled to crumbs1 and pack4 ,tin boxes containing a framework of shelves are made for holding individual ices while freezing1 but a tin lard-pail can be used if necessary1 placing a sheet of paper between each layer of boxes4 ,securely seal with butter the lid of the pail and pack in ice and salt for four or five hours4 ,,mousses ,whip a pint of cream very stiff2 turn it onto a sieve to drain for a few minutes so it will be entirely dry4 ,return it to the bowl and whip into it lightly four tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar and a tablespoonful of curacao1 of noyau1 of kirsch1 or of very black coffee1 or a teaspoonful of any flavoring extract1 or an ounce of chocolate1 melted1 and diluted with a little milk or cream1 and flavor with a few drops of vanilla4 ,when a liqueur is used for flavoring less sugar is needed than with coffee1 chocolate1 or essences4 ,turn the cream into a mold and pack it in ice and salt for four hours4 ,garnish the dish with small iced cakes4 ,,fruit ,,mousses ,whip a pint of cream very stiff and drain as directed above4 ,mix with it a cupful of any fruit-pulp1 the juice drained off and the pulp mixed with enough powdered sugar to make it of the same consistency as the whipped cream2 a little cochineal added to strawberry or to peach mousse gives it a better color4 ,a little vanilla improves the flavor4 ,mold and pack in ice and salt for three hours4 ,,golden ,,mousse 7,made without ,cream7 #c eggs4 #c tablespoonfuls of sherry4 #a_/b tablespoonful of lemon-juice4 #a tablespoonful of syrup with the yolks4 #b tablespoonfuls of syrup with the whites4 ,beat the yolks smooth2 add a tablespoonful of syrup1 and cook1 stirring constantly until the mixture makes a thick coating on the spoon4 ,remove from the fire1 add the sherry and lemon-juice1 and beat it until it is light and cold2 whip the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth2 pour into them slowly two tablespoonfuls of boiling syrup cooked to the ball 7see ,italian meringue1 page #dih72 add the ,italian meringue to the mixture of yolks1 put it into a mold1 and pack in ice and salt for four hours4 ,this mousse can be flavored with a tablespoonful of kirsch1 rum1 or brandy instead of sherry4 ,a few white grapes or candied cherries laid in the bottom of the mold before the mixture is put in1 makes the dish more ornamental4 ,,water-,,ices ,water-ices are made of fruit-juice sweetened with sugar syrup4 ,sugar may be used1 but the result is better with syrup4 ,the liquid mixture should register #bj deg4 on the syrup gauge1 but if one is not at hand1 it can be sweetened to taste4 ,a good way of preparing it is to make a syrup of #cb deg4 and add enough fruit juice to dilute it to #bj deg44 ,freeze the same as ice-cream1 and pack in salt and ice4 ,the ices will not get so hard as creams4 ,the following method may also be used3 ,,orange-,,ice ,boil a quart of water and two and one half cupfuls of sugar for ten minutes2 strain and add the juice of six oranges and one lemon4 ,when cold1 freeze4 ,,lemon-,,ice ,add to the amount of sugar and water given above the juice of four lemons and one orange4 ,,strawberry-,,ice ,to a quart of syrup made as given above1 add a cupful and a half of strawberry-juice4 ,ices may be made of any fruit used in the same proportions4 ,,punches ,,and ,,sherbets ,sidenote3 ,serving4 ,these ices are served in glasses after the joint or last entree1 and before the game4 ,a quart is enough for twelve portions4 ,sidenote3 ,liquors4 ,punches differ from sherbets only in having a little ,italian meringue added to them just before serving4 ,they are simply water-ices with liquors added4 ,roman ,punch has a cupful or two gills of rum added to a quart of lemon-ice4 ,punches having other names are made in the same way1 but have other liquors or mixtures of liquors4 ,these may be kirsch1 kirsch and rum1 kirsch and maraschino1 rum and sherry1 or any other combination desired4 ,when champagne is used it is generally added to orange-ice4 ,strawberry1 raspberry1 pineapple1 or orange-ices are generally used for sherbets with liqueurs such as curacao1 maraschino1 noyau1 etc41 combined with kirsch1 rum1 or champagne4 ,sidenote3 ,mixing in the liquors4 ,the liquors can be added to the ice mixture before it is frozen1 in which case it takes them longer to freeze2 7in fact1 spirits will not freeze at all1 and hence these ices are always soft1 and have to be eaten with a spoon72 or the liquors may be poured over the frozen mixture and stirred in with the paddle4 ,sometimes the water-ice is placed in the glasses and a teaspoonful of the liquor or mixture of liquors is poured over each glassful at the moment of serving4 ,,coffee ,,punch ,mix together a quart of black coffee1 a cupful of cream1 three quarters cupful of sugar2 freeze1 and then mix in a half cupful of brandy or rum1 and a half pint of cream1 whipped1 and let it stand half an hour4 ,stir it well before serving4 ,,cafe ,,frappe ,mix a quart of black coffee with a quart of cream and a cupful of sugar1 or1 better1 sweeten with syrup4 ,freeze the same as ice-cream1 and serve in glasses4 ,a little brandy may be mixed in just before serving1 if desired4 ,,lalla ,,rookh ,make a vanilla cream ,no4 #c4 ,when it is frozen add a cupful of ,jamaica rum4 ,turn the dasher until it is well mixed4 ,allow a cupful of rum to each quart of cream4 ,serve in glasses the same as punch4 ,,chapter ,,xxiii ,,sugar ,,and ,,its ,,uses ,,boiling ,,sugar ,,and ,,making ,,candies ,,boiling ,,sugar ,to boil sugar is one of the niceties of cooking1 but as the uses of boiled sugar in fancy cooking are so various1 it is worth some practice to acquire the requisite skill4 ,with the ordinary ways of testing1 it requires much experience to tell the exact point at which to arrest the cooking1 and on this the success depends4 ,the stages named thread1 blow1 ball1 etc41 give the different degrees required for different purposes4 ,it passes quickly from one to the other and needs careful watching and close attention4 ,the professional cook's method of testing it by dipping in the fingers is not practicable for ordinary use4 ,it is also difficult to judge by dropping it in water unless experienced1 but with a sugar thermometer it can easily be determined with perfect exactness and much less trouble4 ,a sugar thermometer costs #a4ge or #b4jj1 a syrup gauge costs fifty cents1 and both should be considered as necessary cooking utensils as are molds1 mortars1 and other articles used in fancy cooking4 ,for measuring syrups1 the syrup gauge is used as explained below4 ,ice-creams and frozen fruits are much nicer when sweetened with syrup instead of sugar4 ,water-ices and compotes to be right must measure a certain density1 and for this the syrup gauge is employed4 ,fondant1 one of the very useful articles1 candies1 and spun sugar are easily made with the aid of the thermometer4 ,eleven stages of sugar are explained below1 but it is not essential to learn exactly more than the four which are most used1 namely3 the thread for boiled icing1 the soft-ball for fondant1 the crack for glace fruit1 and the caramel4 ,illustration3 ,,sugar ,,thermometer ,,and ,,syrup ,,gauge4 7,,see ,,page #eaj47 ,illustration3 ,,utensils ,,for ,,boiling ,,sugar4 #a4 ,thermometer standing in saucepan of sugar on gas-stove4 #b4 ,cup of water and brush for washing crystals from side of saucepan4 #c4 ,wooden spatula for working sugar on marble slab to make fondant4 #d4 ,wooden skewer for testing sugar when thermometer is not used4 #e4 ,candy wire for dipping nuts or other things to be coated4 ,,granulation ,the tendency of sugar1 when the water which holds it in solution is evaporated1 is to resume its original form of crystals2 to prevent this is the chief care3 the liquid must not be jarred or stirred after the sugar is dissolved4 ,the grains which form on the sides of the pan as the boiling proceeds must be wiped away2 this is done by dipping a cloth or brush into water and passing it around the pan above the sugar4 ,if these crystals are allowed to remain1 the whole mass will become granular4 ,also the sugar has a great affinity for water1 and care must be used to have a dry atmosphere4 ,no steam from boiling kettles1 etc41 must be in the room1 and it is useless to attempt confections requiring the ball or crack stages on a rainy or damp day4 ,when the right degree is reached1 place the sugar pan in one containing cold water1 to prevent the cooking from proceeding any farther4 ,the different stages follow very quickly after the thread2 it is therefore well to have a moderate heat and give it undivided attention4 ,a very little cream of tartar 7a scant half saltspoonful to a pound of sugar7 added at the beginning makes the sugar less liable to grain4 ,if cream of tartar is not used1 a few drops of lemon-juice should be added at the crack stage4 ,if the sugar passes the degree desired1 add a spoonful of water and continue the boiling4 ,no sugar need ever be wasted unless it becomes burned4 ,in working the sugar1 if it begins to grain there is nothing to do but to add a little water and boil it again4 ,,degrees ,,of ,,boiling ,,sugar ,sidenote3 ,first and second degrees4 ,small ,thread1 #bae deg44 ,large ,thread1 #bag deg44 ,press a little of the syrup between the thumb and finger4 ,a ring will form and a fine thread be drawn out which breaks at once and returns to the drop2 for the second stage the thread draws a little farther than the first4 ,sidenote3 ,third and fourth4 ,little ,pearl1 #bbj deg44 ,large ,pearl1 #bbb deg44 ,the sugar forms a thread between the fingers which stretches long1 but breaks4 ,for the fourth it stretches without breaking4 ,the first four degrees are syrups4 ,sidenote3 ,fifth and sixth4 ,the ,blow1 #bcj deg44 ,the ,feather1 #bcb deg44 crystallization4 ,dip in a broom-straw twisted to form a small loop at the end4 ,a film will fill the loop1 which will blow into a bubble4 ,at the sixth stage fine threads will fly from the bubble4 ,the candy stages follow3 ,sidenote3 ,seventh and eighth4 ,small ,ball1 #bcf deg4-#bch deg44 ,large ,ball1 #bdf deg4-#bdh deg44 ,drop a little into cold water2 for the #gth a soft ball can be rolled between the fingers2 for the #hth a hard ball4 ,sidenote3 ,ninth and ,tenth4 ,small ,crack1 #bij deg44 ,crack1 #caj deg44 ,at the #ith a little1 dropped into water1 will break when cooled4 ,at #cjj deg4 it begins to assume a light color1 and a few drops of lemon-juice should be added 7four drops to a pound of sugar74 ,at #caj deg4 it breaks off sharp and crisp1 and crackles when chewed4 ,sidenote3 ,eleventh4 ,the ,caramel1 #cde deg4-#cej deg4 ,it now assumes a yellow color1 and great care must be used or it will burn4 ,the cooking must be arrested as soon as it is taken from the fire by holding the pan in cold water for a minute or so4 ,a skewer or stick is the best thing to use for testing1 as the little sugar that adheres to it will cool quickly4 ,dip the stick first into water1 then into the sugar1 and again into water4 ,,syrups ,sidenote3 ,syrup kept in stock4 ,to use a syrup gauge have a glass deep enough to allow the gauge to float4 ,a small cylindrical glass like the one shown in illustration is best1 as it requires so little syrup that removing and pouring it back does not arrest the boiling4 ,syrups can be prepared and kept in air-tight preserve jars until needed for use4 ,it is well to have in stock syrup at #cd deg4 for softening fondant when used for icing cakes1 eclairs1 etc4 ,water-ices should register #ah deg4-#bj deg4 on the gauge when ready to freeze4 ,fruits to be frozen are better when sweetened with syrup at #cb deg4 than when sugar is used4 ,sidenote3 ,making syrup without a gauge4 ,to prepare syrup without a gauge the following method can be employed3 ,put into a saucepan three and one half cupfuls of sugar and two and one half cupfuls of water4 ,stir it over the fire until the sugar is dissolved4 ,after it has boiled five minutes1 counting from the time it is actually boiling1 it will register #bh deg42 every five minutes' additional boiling will thicken it one degree4 ,at the end of #ae minutes it is #cj deg44 ,at the end of #be minutes it is #cb deg44 ,at the end of #ce minutes it is #cd deg44 ,,fondant ,sidenote3 ,the uses of fondant4 ,fondant is the basis of all ,french cream candies4 ,it can be kept any length of time in air-tight preserve jars1 and used as needed for the various purposes which it serves4 ,a great variety of bonbons can be made of it by using different flavors1 colors1 and nuts in various forms and combinations4 ,some of these are given under ,candies1 but each one's taste may suggest something different4 ,fondant makes the nicest icing for small cakes2 strawberries with the hulls on dipped into fondant make a delicious fruit glace4 ,it will be found easy to make fondant if the directions given below are strictly followed4 ,,to ,,make ,,fondant ,sidenote3 ,testing4 ,sidenote3 ,cooling4 ,sidenote3 ,working4 ,place in a copper or a graniteware saucepan two cupfuls of granulated sugar1 one cupful of water1 and a scant half saltspoonful of cream of tartar4 ,stir until the sugar is dissolved1 but not a minute longer4 ,as it boils1 a thin scum of crystals will form around the edge of the pan4 ,these must be wiped away by wetting a cloth or brush in water and passing it around the dish without touching the boiling sugar4 ,this must be done frequently1 or as often as the crystals form1 or the whole mass will become granular4 ,when large bubbles rise it must be carefully watched and tested1 as from this time it quickly passes from one stage to another4 ,have a cup of ice-water and a skewer or small stick2 dip it into the water1 then into the sugar1 and again into the water4 ,if the sugar which adheres to it can be rolled into a soft ball1 it is done4 ,this is the stage of small-ball1 and the thermometer registers #bcf deg4-#bch deg4 7see page #eab74 ,have ready a marble slab1 very lightly but evenly rubbed over with sweet-oil4 ,if a slab is not at hand1 a large platter will serve the purpose4 ,the moment the sugar is done1 pour it over the slab and let it cool a few minutes1 or until1 pressing it with the finger1 it leaves a dent on the surface4 ,if stirred while too warm it will grain4 ,if a crust forms1 every particle of it must be taken off1 or else the boiling must be done again1 as it shows it has cooked a little too long4 ,when it will dent1 work it with a wooden spatula1 keeping the mass in the center as much as possible4 ,continue to stir until it becomes a very smooth1 fine1 white1 creamy paste1 which is soft and not brittle and can be worked in the hands like a thick paste4 ,if the results are not right and the mass becomes grained1 the sugar need not be wasted1 but can be put in the saucepan with a spoonful of water and boiled again4 ,in stirring the fondant do not mix in the scrapings unless the whole is still very soft4 ,they can be worked by themselves afterward4 ,confectioners use one part of glucose to ten of sugar and boil to #bdj deg44 ,,spun ,,sugar ,sidenote3 ,three requisites4 ,although spinning sugar has been called the climax of the art of sugar work1 one need not be deterred from trying it2 for with a dry atmosphere1 the sugar boiled to the right degree1 and care given to prevent graining1 it can be accomplished4 ,it is upon these three things alone that success depends4 ,spun sugar makes a beautiful decoration for ice-creams1 glace fruits1 and other cold desserts4 ,the expense of making it is only nominal1 but it commands a fancy price4 ,,directions ,,for ,,spinning ,,sugar ,sidenote3 ,keeping4 ,put in a copper or a graniteware saucepan two cupfuls 7one pound7 of sugar2 one half cupful of water1 and one half saltspoonful of cream of tartar4 ,boil the sugar as directed for fondant above1 letting it attain the degree of crack1 or #caj deg44 ,this is the degree just before caramel1 and care must be used4 ,when it has reached the crack1 place the sugar pan in cold water a moment to arrest the cooking1 for the heat of the pan and sugar may advance it one degree4 ,for spinning1 two forks may be used1 but a few wires drawn through a cork are better1 as they give more points4 ,have also two iron bars or rods of any kind 7pieces of broom handle will do71 placed on a table or over chairs so the ends project a little way2 spread some papers on the floor under them4 ,take the pan of sugar in the left hand1 the forks or wires in the right2 dip them into the sugar and shake them quickly back and forth over the rods2 fine threads of sugar will fly off the points and drop on the rods4 ,if the sugar gets too cold it can be heated again4 ,take the spun sugar carefully off the rods from time to time and fold it around molds1 or roll it into nests or other forms desired4 ,place the spun sugar under a glass globe as soon as made4 ,under an air-tight globe with a small piece of lime it may keep crisp for a day or two1 but it readily gathers moisture1 and it is safer to make it the day it is to be used4 ,do not attempt to make it on a damp or rainy day1 and have no boiling kettles in the room 7see general directions for boiling sugar1 page #eac74 ,,glace ,,oranges ,,and ,,grapes ,sidenote3 ,causes of failure4 ,divide an orange into sections2 do not break the inside skin1 for if the juice escapes in ever so small a quantity the section must be discarded4 ,let them stand several hours until the surface has become very dry4 ,remove grapes from the bunch1 leaving a short stem attached to each one4 ,boil some sugar to #cdj deg41 or the point just before the caramel stage 7see directions for boiling sugar1 page #eab74 ,remove the pan from the fire and place it for a moment in water to arrest the cooking4 ,drop the orange sections into the sugar1 one at a time1 and remove them with a candy wire or with two forks1 and place them on an oiled slab to dry4 ,with a pair of pincers take each grape by the small stem and dip it into the sugar1 and be sure it is entirely coated4 ,place each separately on the slab to dry4 ,if the day is damp1 the sugar not sufficiently boiled1 or the fruit at all moist1 the sugar will all drain off2 therefore the work must be done only under the right conditions4 ,candied cherries may be treated in this way3 first wash them to remove the sugar2 let them dry1 then pierce them with an artificial stem and dip them carefully so as not to deface the stem4 ,illustration3 ,,glace ,,oranges ,,and ,,grapes ,,in ,,paper ,,boxes4 ,illustration3 ,,glace ,,grapes ,,and ,,oranges ,,covered ,,with ,,spun ,,sugar4 ,illustration3 ,,glace ,,grapes ,,in ,,nest ,,of ,,spun ,,sugar4 ,illustration3 ,,glace ,,grapes ,,covered ,,with ,,spun ,,sugar4 ,,candies ,sidenote3 ,to prevent granulation4 ,sidenote3 ,greasing4 ,when making candies observe carefully the rules for boiling sugar4 ,when sugar reaches the candy stage1 the water has evaporated1 and the tendency is to return to the original state of crystals4 ,if it is jarred1 or is stirred1 or if the thin line of crystals formed around the pan by the sugar rising while boiling is allowed to remain1 the whole mass will granulate1 hence1 for success1 it is necessary to avoid these things4 ,to keep the sides of the pan washed free of crystals dip a brush in water and pass it around the pan close to the edge of the sugar as often as is necessary2 a sponge or a small piece of cloth may be used1 but with these there is danger of burning the fingers4 ,a very little acid added at the crack stage also prevents graining2 this is termed ,greasing4 ,if too much acid is used it prevents the sugar advancing to the caramel stage1 and also may cause granulation4 ,a few drops1 only1 of lemon-juice1 of vinegar1 or a little cream of tartar are the acids used4 ,sidenote3 ,making candies4 ,the success of candy-making depends entirely upon boiling sugar to just the right degree4 ,the candy will not harden if boiled too little4 ,another stage1 where it hardens but sticks to the teeth1 means the boiling was arrested at the hard-ball instead of the crack stage4 ,unless a thermometer is used1 a little practice seems necessary before one recognizes the small differences upon which success depends2 but the experience once gained1 it is easy to make a pound or more of candy at slight expense4 ,in the country1 where it is often impossible to get fresh candies1 it is desirable to be able to make them4 ,where fondant is already prepared and kept in preserve jars1 the cream bonbons can be quickly made4 ,carameled nuts are perhaps the least trouble to make of any candies4 ,sidenote3 ,marble slab and iron bars4 ,a marble slab is almost requisite in making candy1 though greased papers and tins can be used4 ,candy poured upon a slab cools quickly1 has an even surface1 and can be easily removed4 ,four square iron bars are useful to confine the sugar4 ,these can be placed so as to form bays of the size suitable to the amount of sugar used and the thickness required4 ,,nougat ,no4 #a 7,for ,bonbons7 ,blanch one cupful of almonds4 ,chop them and place them in the oven to dry4 ,they must be watched that they do not brown4 ,put into a saucepan two and a half cupfuls of powdered sugar and a tablespoonful of lemon-juice4 ,place it on the fire and stir with a wooden spoon until it is melted and slightly colored4 ,let it stand a few minutes so it will be thoroughly melted and not grainy1 then turn in the hot almonds1 mix them together quickly1 not stirring long enough to grain the sugar1 and turn it onto an oiled slab4 ,spread it out in an even sheet1 one eighth of an inch thick1 using a half lemon to press it with4 ,while it is still warm1 mark it off into squares or diamonds4 ,break it into pieces when cold4 ,these sheets of nougat can be lifted and pressed into molds1 but it hardens quickly and is not as easy to work as the receipt ,no4 #b4 ,,nougat ,no4 #b 7,for ,molding7 ,put two cupfuls of granulated sugar into a saucepan with a half cupful of water4 ,let it boil to the crack 7#caj deg47 without stirring 7see boiling sugar1 page #eaa71 add a few drops of lemon-juice1 and then turn in a half cupful of hot chopped blanched almonds which have been dried in the oven4 ,mix them together1 stirring only enough to mix them and not grain the sugar4 ,pour it on an oiled marble slab1 and press it as thin as an eighth of an inch or less4 ,cut the sheet of nougat into pieces of the right size and press them into oiled molds4 ,do this while the nougat is only just cool enough to handle1 so it will be pliable4 ,loosen the form from the mold while it is still warm1 but keep it in the mold until cold4 ,the work has to be done quickly1 as the nougat hardens in a few minutes4 ,perhaps the first trial to make nougat forms will be a failure1 but a few trials will enable one to accomplish it4 ,if any pieces get broken off the molded forms1 they can be stuck on again with liquid sugar or with royal icing4 ,horns of plenty are favorite forms for nougat4 ,the molds come of different sizes4 ,these pieces filled with glace fruits make very ornamental pieces4 ,the horns are molded in halves4 ,when the nougat has hardened1 the two pieces are tied together1 rested on a muffin ring1 and royal icing pressed through a pastry-tube into any ornamental shape along the edges4 ,this quickly hardens and binds the horn together4 ,a support for the form is made from nougat cut into strips and formed into a box-shape1 open at one end4 ,illustration3 ,,horn ,,of ,,plenty ,,in ,,nougat ,,filled ,,with ,,glace ,,grapes4 ,illustration3 ,,horn ,,of ,,plenty ,,in ,,nougat ,,filled ,,with ,,glace ,,oranges ,,and ,,grapes ,,covered ,,with ,,spun ,,sugar4 ,,nougat ,no4 #c 7,soft ,white ,nougat7 ,put into a saucepan the whites of three eggs whipped to a stiff froth2 beat into them one pound of heated strained honey1 then add a pound of sugar cooked to the ball1 #bcf deg44 ,continue beating until it attains #bij deg44 ,a little of the mixture cooled in water will then crumble between the fingers4 ,at this stage add a pound of sugar cooked to the crack1 #caj deg41 a pound of whole blanched almonds1 and a few pistachio nuts4 ,pour the mixture into a dish lined with wafers1 making the nougat one inch thick4 ,cover the top with wafers1 and when cold cut it into pieces three inches long and one inch wide4 ,to make wafers1 see receipt for gauffres 7page #dgi72 but instead of baking them in the gauffre-iron1 spread the mixture as thinly as possible on an oiled paper and dry in a slow oven without coloring4 ,,nougat ,no4 #d 7,bonbons7 ,blanch1 chop1 and dry without coloring one cupful of almonds4 ,melt one cupful of powdered sugar with one teaspoonful of lemon-juice1 stirring all the time4 ,when it is thoroughly melted and a delicate color1 turn in the hot almonds4 ,mix them together and turn into an oiled tin4 ,press down the nougat evenly1 leaving it an inch thick4 ,cut it in inch squares before it becomes hard4 ,this nougat has only enough sugar to bind the nuts together4 ,,burnt ,,almonds ,put a cupful of brown sugar into a saucepan with a very little water4 ,stir until the sugar is dissolved4 ,let it boil a minute1 then throw in a half cupful of almonds and stir over the fire until the sugar granulates and is a little browned4 ,when the nuts are well coated1 and before they get into one mass1 turn them out and separate any that have stuck together4 ,,sugared ,,almonds ,put a cupful of granulated sugar in a saucepan with a little water4 ,stir until it is dissolved1 then let it cook to the ball stage without touching except to test4 ,turn in a half cupful of blanched almonds and stir off the fire until the nuts are well covered with the granulated sugar1 but turn them out before they become one mass4 ,boil another cupful of sugar to the ball1 turn in the coated almonds and stir again in the same way1 giving them a second coating of sugar1 but not leaving them in the pan until they are all stuck together4 ,the nuts may be given a third coating in the same way1 if a larger size is wanted4 ,for pink almonds1 add a little carmine to the sugar just before putting in the almonds for the last coating4 ,any flavoring desired may also be added at this time4 ,,marrons ,,glace 7,candied ,chestnuts7 ,remove the shells from a dozen or more ,french chestnuts4 ,cover them with boiling water and let them stand a few minutes until the skins can be removed4 ,put them again in hot water and simmer slowly until the nuts are tender1 but not soft4 ,put a cupful of sugar and a cupful of water in a saucepan and stir until dissolved4 ,add the boiled chestnuts and let them cook in the syrup until they look clear1 then turn them onto a sieve1 using care not to break the nuts1 and let them cool4 ,return the strained syrup to the saucepan and cook it to the hard-ball stage4 ,remove it from the fire1 add a few drops of lemon-juice and a half teaspoonful of vanilla extract4 ,drop the chestnuts into it1 one at a time1 turn until thinly coated1 and remove with a candy wire to an oiled paper or slab2 or1 when the sugar has reached the ball stage1 add a few drops of lemon-juice1 let it cool a few minutes1 and then stir until it begins to whiten2 then immediately place in a pan of hot water1 flavor with vanilla and stir until it again becomes liquid1 and dip the nuts as directed above4 ,,marshmallows ,soak four ounces of gum arabic in a cupful of water until it is dissolved4 ,strain it to take out any black specks that may be in the gum4 ,put the dissolved gum arabic into a saucepan with a half pound of powdered sugar4 ,place the saucepan in a second pan containing boiling water4 ,stir until the mixture becomes thick and white4 ,when it begins to thicken1 test it by dropping a little into cold water4 ,when it will form a firm ball remove it from the fire1 and stir into it the whites of three eggs whipped to a stiff froth4 ,this will give it a spongy texture4 ,lastly1 flavor it with two teaspoonfuls of orange-flower water4 ,turn the paste into a pan covered thick with corn-starch4 ,the layer of paste should be one inch thick4 ,too large a pan must not be used1 or it will spread and make a thin layer4 ,after the paste has stood twelve hours1 turn it onto a slab and cut it into inch squares1 dust them well with corn-starch or with confectioner's sugar1 and pack in boxes4 ,as the paste is more or less cooked1 it will be more or less stiff4 ,marshmallows become harder the longer they are kept1 but are best when as soft as they can be handled4 ,,caramels ,,chocolate ,put into a saucepan a half cupful each of molasses1 of white sugar and of brown sugar1 a cupful of grated chocolate1 and a cupful of cream or milk4 ,stir the mixture constantly over the fire until it reaches the hard-ball stage1 then add a teaspoonful of vanilla and turn it onto an oiled slab between iron bars1 or into a greased tin1 having the paste an inch thick4 ,mark it in inch squares and cut before it is quite cold4 ,wrap each piece in paraffin paper4 ,,vanilla1 ,,coffee1 ,,maple ,put into a saucepan one cupful of sugar and three quarters of a cupful of cream4 ,stir constantly over a hot fire until it reaches the hard-ball stage2 remove from the fire1 add a teaspoonful of vanilla1 and turn it onto an oiled slab between iron bars1 or into greased tins1 the same as directed for chocolate caramels4 ,for coffee caramels use a half cupful of cream and a quarter of a cupful of strong coffee4 ,for maple caramels use a cupful of maple syrup in place of sugar1 and omit the vanilla4 ,,bonbons ,,of ,,fondant ,,harlequin ,,balls ,take several small portions of fondant and color each one a different shade ,do this by dipping a wooden toothpick into the coloring matter and then touching it to the paste4 ,the colors are strong1 and care must be used not to get too much on the fondant1 for the candies should be delicate in color4 ,for orange balls1 color and flavor with orange-juice2 for pistachio1 color green and flavor with orange-flower water and then with bitter almond 7see page #cia72 for pink1 color with carmine and flavor with maraschino or with rose-water2 for chocolate1 mix in cocoa powder and flavor with vanilla2 for white1 flavor with noyau1 peach1 or anything preferred4 ,when liquid flavors are used1 if the fondant becomes too soft1 mix in a little confectioner's sugar2 use as little as possible1 as too much gives a raw taste4 ,work in the flavorings and colors by hand1 and wash the hands between each different color4 ,after the fondant is prepared1 roll it into balls the size of filberts1 then roll them in almonds chopped fine4 ,the nuts improve them1 but may be omitted if desired4 ,let the balls stand for two or more hours to harden before putting them together4 ,if the balls are wanted of one color on the outside1 omit the nuts and dip them in liquid fondant colored as desired4 ,,neapolitan ,,squares ,color and flavor fondant in three colors as directed above2 roll it into layers one quarter inch thick1 and place the layers one on the other2 press them together lightly and cut into inch squares4 ,,nut ,,creams ,mix chopped nuts of any kind into flavored fondant1 then roll into a layer three quarters of an inch thick1 and cut into squares4 ,,sugar-,,plums ,take small pieces of fondant1 flavored and colored to taste2 form it into olive-shaped balls4 ,hold one in the palm of the hand1 cut it half through and press into it an almond2 form the fondant around it1 leaving a narrow strip of the nut uncovered1 giving the appearance of a shell cracked open1 showing the kernel4 ,if chocolate color is used the almond should be blanched1 but with light colors the skin is left on to give contrast4 ,when green color is used it represents a green almond4 ,,chocolate ,,creams ,roll fondant flavored with vanilla into small balls2 let them stand a few hours to harden4 ,melt an ounce of unsweetened chocolate1 add to it two tablespoonfuls of milk1 two tablespoonfuls of sugar1 and a quarter teaspoonful of butter4 ,stir till smooth2 drop the balls into it and remove with a fork or candy wire4 ,if the chocolate becomes too stiff1 add a few drops of syrup and heat it again4 ,,creamed ,,nuts ,,and ,,creamed ,,fruits ,put one or two tablespoonfuls of fondant into a cup4 ,place the cup in a basin of hot water and stir constantly until the fondant becomes soft like cream or molasses4 ,if it is not stirred it will go back to clear syrup2 flavor and color the liquid fondant as desired4 ,drop the nuts in one at a time1 turn them until well covered with fondant1 lift them out with a candy-spoon1 and place them on an oiled paper1 or on an oiled slab4 ,english walnuts1 cherries1 strawberries1 and grapes are very good creamed in this way4 ,the hulls are left on strawberries1 the stems on cherries and grapes4 ,brandied cherries may also be creamed in the same way4 ,if the fondant becomes too stiff1 melt it again4 ,after it has been melted twice it no longer works well4 ,a few drops of syrup at #cd deg4 can then be added4 ,it is well to have some syrup prepared to keep in stock for this purpose4 ,a drop or two of liquid is sufficient to soften fondant1 and unless care is used it will be diluted too much1 in which case confectioner's sugar can be mixed in2 but this gives a raw taste to the fondant1 and should be avoided if possible4 ,,cocoanut ,,creams ,grate some cocoanut fine4 ,mix it with as much liquid fondant as will bind it well1 and flavor with a little vanilla4 ,spread it in a layer one inch thick and cut into one inch squares1 or roll it into balls1 and dip the balls into melted chocolate1 the same as directed for chocolate creams1 or into liquid fondant1 flavored and colored as desired4 ,,cocoanut ,,cakes ,moisten a cupful of sugar with the milk of a cocoanut2 boil it to the soft-ball2 then stir in as much grated cocoanut as the boiled sugar will moisten2 stir it only enough to mix and not granulate4 ,drop a spoonful at a time on an oiled slab1 making flat round cakes about two inches in diameter4 ,if the sugar granulates before the cakes are all spread1 add a little water and cook it again to the soft-ball4 ,,peppermint ,,creams ,melt fondant as directed for creamed nuts2 flavor it with essence of peppermint4 ,with a spoon drop the liquid fondant in even amounts upon an oiled slab1 making lozenges2 or1 better1 turn it into starch molds 7see starch molds1 below74 ,,chocolate ,,peppermints ,dip the peppermint lozenges into liquid chocolate1 as directed for chocolate creams4 ,,to ,,make ,,starch ,,molds ,,and ,,cast ,,candies ,fill a box-cover with corn-starch1 having it very light and dry2 shake it down even4 ,press into it a die of any shape desired1 making the indentations carefully4 ,plaster casts are made for this purpose1 but buttons make very good dies4 ,a smooth flat button one half inch in diameter makes a good shape for peppermints4 ,molds are used for cream drops1 chocolates1 or any of the flavored clear candies4 ,the liquid candy is dropped carefully into the molds and removed when cold and the starch dusted off4 ,the starch can then be stirred light and again pressed into molds4 ,,candies ,,made ,,from ,,sugar ,,boiled ,,to ,,the ,,crack ,,or ,,the ,,caramel ,,peppermint ,,drops ,boil a cupful of sugar to the hard-ball4 ,remove it from the fire2 add a half teaspoonful of essence of peppermint and stir it just enough to mix in the flavoring and cloud the sugar4 ,drop it into starch molds or upon an oiled slab1 letting four drops of the candy fall in exactly the same spot2 it will then spread round and even4 ,these drops should be translucent or a little white4 ,unless care is used the candy will grain before the drops are molded2 therefore it is better to pour it from the spout of the pan than to dip it out with a spoon4 ,,carameled ,,nuts ,boil a cupful of sugar to the crack or to the caramel1 as preferred2 add a few drops of lemon-juice4 ,blanch a few almonds and dry without coloring them4 ,drop one at a time into the sugar2 turn it until well covered without stirring the sugar2 lift it out with the candy-spoon1 and place it on an oiled slab4 ,do not drain the nuts when lifting them out1 and enough sugar will remain to form a clear ring of candy around each one4 ,english walnuts1 filberts1 or any other nuts may be used in the same way4 ,they should be warmed so as not to chill the candy4 ,the work should be done quickly4 ,if the sugar becomes hard before the nuts are all done1 return it to the fire to heat4 ,add a teaspoonful of water if necessary1 and boil it to the right degree again4 ,if the sugar is boiled to the crack1 the candy will be without color2 if boiled to the caramel1 it will be yellow4 ,,almond ,,hardbake ,blanch some almonds and split them in two4 ,dry them in a moderate heat without coloring them4 ,lay them with the flat side down on an oiled layer-cake tin1 entirely covering it4 ,pour over the nuts enough sugar boiled to the crack to entirely cover them4 ,the almonds may be laid in regular order like wreaths1 or in groups like rosettes1 if desired4 ,mark off squares or circles on the candy while it is warm1 and it can then be broken in regular pieces when cold4 ,,peanut ,,candy ,fill a small square tin a half inch deep with shelled peanuts1 leaving the skins on4 ,boil some sugar to the crack or to the caramel1 and pour it over the nuts1 just covering them4 ,cut it into two-inch squares before it becomes quite cold4 ,,taffy ,put into a saucepan two and a half cupfuls of sugar and a half cupful of water2 stir until it dissolves2 then wash the sides of the pan1 and let it boil without touching until it reaches the soft-ball stage2 add a tablespoonful of butter and a half teaspoonful of lemon-juice1 and let it boil to the crack2 add a teaspoonful of vanilla1 and turn it onto an oiled slab or a tin to cool4 ,mark it off into squares before it becomes cold4 ,,molasses ,,candy ,put into a large saucepan a cupful of brown sugar1 two cupfuls of ,new ,orleans molasses1 and a tablespoonful each of butter and vinegar4 ,mix them well and boil until it will harden when dropped in water4 ,then stir in a teaspoonful of baking-soda1 which will whiten it1 and turn it into a greased tin to cool4 ,when it can be handled pull it until white and firm2 draw it into sticks and cut it into inch lengths4 ,,candied ,,orange ,,or ,,lemon ,,peel ,keep the peel of the fruit1 as it is used1 in a weak brine until enough has collected to preserve4 ,wash it thoroughly in several waters4 ,let it boil in plenty of water until tender1 changing the water several times4 ,if the peels are fresh they need be boiled in one water only4 ,when they can be pierced with a straw1 drain off the hot water4 ,let them cool1 and scrape out the white pulp with a spoon4 ,make enough syrup to cover the yellow peels1 using the proportion of a pound of sugar to a pint of water4 ,when the syrup is boiling1 drop in the peels and let them cook slowly until they are clear4 ,then boil rapidly until the syrup is reduced almost to dryness1 using care that it does not burn4 ,spread the peels on a flat dish and place them in a warm place to dry for twelve hours or more4 ,when perfectly dry pack them into preserve jars4 ,they are cut into shreds and used in cakes1 puddings1 and wherever raisins and citron are used4 ,they are also used in pudding sauces4 ,it is very little trouble to make the candied peels1 and they are a delicious addition to various sweet dishes4 ,the boiled peel can be cut into shreds before being cooked in the syrup if preferred4 ,,chapter ,,xxiv ,,fruits ,in point of general usefulness1 apples hold the first place among fruits4 ,oranges also serve a great number of purposes1 and1 like apples1 can be depended on nearly the whole year4 ,peaches and apricots1 although of short season1 can be so successfully preserved that they1 as well as berries1 render important service in cooking4 ,all of these fruits are excellent prepared as compotes1 with pastry1 with corn-starch1 or with gelatine1 making a variety of dishes without number4 ,in the index will be found a list of dishes under each of these heads4 ,in the fruit season one is sometimes at a loss to know how to utilize the abundance there may be at command4 ,usually the fresh fruit is most acceptable at that time1 but the little trouble and slight expense of canning should make one provident enough to secure a year's store to supply the various purposes which cooked fruit serve4 ,sidenote3 ,temperature4 ,sidenote3 ,arranging4 ,fresh fruits are always wholesome1 beautiful1 and inviting1 and should always have a place on every table4 ,the practice of leaving fruit on the sideboard in a warm room from one meal to another is a mistake1 for fruit should be fresh1 firm1 and cold to be in its best condition4 ,an exception to this rule may be made for fruits fresh from the garden with the heat of the sun upon them4 ,the small fruits are much more delicious when tasting of the sunshine1 but fruits obtained from markets are better for being chilled4 ,much taste may be shown in arranging fruits for decorating the table4 ,they may be combined in large dishes1 giving effect of abundance1 or a quantity of one kind massed together for color-effects1 or a few choice specimens of a kind placed on separate compotiers4 ,all the ways are good and1 if the fruit is fresh and fair1 will be most attractive4 ,green leaves should be combined with fruits2 grape-leaves under small groups of peaches1 plums1 grapes1 etc41 are much used by the ,french1 who excel in the beautiful arrangements of fruit4 ,white grapes1 shading from those with pink tints to white below1 give pleasing effects on white dinner-tables4 ,sidenote3 ,apples4 ,apples should be washed and rubbed until well polished4 ,fine apples so treated make an attractive centerpiece dish4 ,sidenote3 ,illustrations4 ,a few ways of preparing oranges are given in illustrations4 ,illustration3 ,,different ,,ways ,,of ,,preparing ,,oranges4 ,illustration3 ,,sliced ,,oranges4 ,sidenote3 ,oranges1 grape-fruit1 or shaddocks4 ,the grape-fruit is served at breakfast1 or as a first course at luncheon4 ,the pulp must be separated from the thin bitter skin which separates the sections1 with a silver knife4 ,a little sugar is added1 and sometimes a teaspoonful of sherry1 to each portion4 ,the pulp and juice is eaten with a spoon from the peel1 one half the shaddock being served to each person1 or it may be served in small glasses4 ,the peels prepared as fancy baskets can be kept fresh for several days in water4 ,illustration3 ,,grape ,,fruit ,,served ,,in ,,the ,,half ,,peel4 ,illustration3 ,,grape ,,fruit ,,served ,,in ,a ,,basket ,,made ,,of ,,the ,,peel ,,and ,a ,,branch ,,of ,,holly ,,tied ,,to ,,the ,,handle4 7,,see ,,page #ecj47 ,illustration3 ,,grape ,,fruit ,,served ,,in ,a ,,basket ,,made ,,of ,,the ,,peel--,,geranium ,,leaves ,,tied ,,to ,,the ,,handle4 ,sidenote3 ,peaches4 ,peaches should have the down taken off lightly with a soft brush before being served4 ,a fruit doily should be given at the time they are passed1 as peaches stain the table linen4 ,sidenote3 ,strawberries4 ,large fine strawberries are served with the hulls on and piled in a pyramid4 ,sugar is passed with them1 or they may be served on individual plates around a small mound of sugar1 made by pressing the sugar in a wineglass and then unmolding it in the center of the plate4 ,sidenote3 ,berries4 ,no berries should be washed4 ,if strawberries are sandy1 cold water must be poured over them and drained off at once1 but the berries will no longer be at their best4 ,sugar should always be passed1 and not put over the berries before serving them1 as it extracts their juice and destroys their firmness4 ,they should also be served in small dishes1 as they crush with their own weight4 ,where a large quantity is being served1 several dishes should be used4 ,sidenote3 ,currants4 ,a mixture of red and of white currants makes an attractive breakfast fruit4 ,they may be served on the stems if fine and large clusters4 ,sidenote3 ,bananas sliced1 sauted1 and fried4 ,bananas sliced and covered with whipped cream make a good light dessert for luncheon4 ,they may be moistened with orange-juice or with sherry before the cream is added1 if desired4 ,bananas may be cut in two lengthwise1 sauted in a little butter1 and served as a vegetable or as an entree2 or they may be cut in two1 the ends cut square1 so they will resemble croquettes1 then rolled in flour1 and fried in hot fat to a light color1 and served as a dessert with currant jelly sauce4 ,to make the sauce1 dilute the jelly with boiling water2 add a few chopped blanched almonds and shredded candied orange-peel4 ,the unripe and not fully developed banana is devoid of sweetness and when roasted resembles a baked potato4 ,in hot climates the natives live mostly on bananas1 and a nation is said to be cursed where they grow1 because the ease with which they get their living makes them lazy4 ,sidenote3 ,stewed figs4 ,soak dried figs in cold water for several hours1 then stew them slowly until plump4 ,drain and pile them on a dish1 and serve with whipped cream slightly sweetened and flavored with vanilla1 sherry1 maraschino1 or with essence of almond4 ,arrange the cream in a circle around the figs4 ,sidenote3 ,salpicon of fruits4 ,mix together lightly an equal proportion of orange-pulp1 bananas cut into half-inch dice1 and grapes cut in two and the seeds removed4 ,add sugar if necessary1 and a little sherry or liqueur if desired2 serve in glasses or in half-orange skins4 ,grape-fruit may be used in the same way2 it may also be combined with the orange salpicon4 ,there should be a good quantity of juice with the mixture4 ,illustration3 ,,salpicon ,,of ,,fruits ,,in ,,orange-,,skin4 ,illustration3 ,,salpicon ,,of ,,fruits ,,in ,,glass4 ,sidenote3 ,melons4 ,melons are in perfection in hot dry weather4 ,they absorb water readily and should not be gathered after a heavy rain storm4 ,small melons are cut in two1 the seeds removed1 a piece of ice placed in each piece1 and a half melon served to each person4 ,large melons are cut in broad sections and a generous piece served as a portion4 ,melons may be served at the beginning or the end of any meal4 ,they are usually most acceptable as a first course4 ,they should be thoroughly cold4 ,sidenote3 ,frozen fruits4 ,any of the fruits can be partly frozen and served as an ice4 ,cut them into pieces1 sweeten with sugar syrup1 and pack in ice and salt for an hour1 but do not leave them long enough to become stiff4 ,berries are of course left whole4 ,sidenote3 ,quinces baked4 ,pare and core quinces the same as apples4 ,put them in a shallow earthen dish1 with enough water to fill the dish a quarter inch deep4 ,place them in a moderate oven and bake until tender1 basting them often4 ,serve them hot with butter and sugar as a luncheon dish4 ,illustration3 ,,plums4 ,sidenote3 ,nuts4 ,nuts with hard shells are cracked1 the meats removed and placed in bonbon dishes1 or are piled on lace papers in small compotiers4 ,almonds with paper shells are served whole4 ,almonds are also served blanched4 ,peanuts with the shells and skins removed1 and served in bonbon dishes1 are much liked and seldom recognized as the much-despised nut4 ,peanuts may be salted the same as almonds4 ,sidenote3 ,salted almonds4 ,blanch the almonds by putting them in boiling water for a few minutes2 the skins can then be easily rubbed off4 ,put the blanched nuts into a pan with a small piece of butter1 and place them in a moderate oven4 ,stir them frequently so they will brown on all sides4 ,sprinkle them freely with salt as soon as they are taken from the oven4 ,sidenote3 ,salted almonds ,no4 #b4 ,blanch the almonds1 and when they are thoroughly dry pour a tablespoonful of oil on every cupful of nuts4 ,let them stand in the oil for an hour1 then add a tablespoonful of fine salt to each cupful4 ,stir them and place in a shallow pan in the oven until they are colored a light brown4 ,stir them occasionally while in the oven1 so they will be evenly colored4 ,turn them onto a paper to dry1 and shake off the loose salt before serving4 ,sidenote3 ,salted ,english walnuts and filberts4 ,brown them in the oven with a little butter the same as almonds4 ,filberts are blanched1 but walnuts do not have the skin removed4 ,a mixture of salted almonds1 walnuts1 and filberts makes a good combination4 ,salted nuts are served at luncheon or dinner1 and are eaten at any and all times during those meals4 ,,salpicon ,,of ,,fruit ,,punch ,this is served in glasses1 in place of and in the same way as frozen punch after the roast4 ,cut a pineapple into small dice2 remove the bitter skin carefully from the segments of three shaddocks and cut them into pieces4 ,cut in two and remove the seeds from a pound of white grapes2 mix the fruit together4 ,put a cupful of rum and a cupful of sugar into a saucepan on the fire and let them come to the boiling point1 then pour them over the fruit and let stand until cold4 ,the rum will not penetrate the fruit so well if put on cold4 ,put the mixture into a freezing-can and pack in ice and salt for several hours1 or until ready to serve4 ,stir the mixture together carefully every little while4 ,,punch ,,of ,,white ,,california ,,canned ,,cherries ,drain off the liquor2 make a rum syrup as above2 soak and freeze in the same way4 ,,jellied ,,fruit ,cut the pulp of two oranges into small pieces2 cut two bananas into dice2 cut half a dozen candied cherries into quarters2 chop a dozen blanched almonds4 ,mix all lightly together and turn them into a bowl or a china mold4 ,soak a half ounce of gelatine in a half cupful of cold water for an hour2 dissolve it in a cupful of boiling water2 add a half cupful of sugar and stir over the fire until dissolved2 then add the juice of half a lemon1 the juice which has drained from the fruit1 and a tablespoonful of sherry4 ,turn it into the mold slowly1 so it soaks into the fruit1 and set aside to cool4 ,serve with cream if convenient4 ,any mixture of fresh fruits may be used in the same way2 raisins may be used instead of cherries1 or both may be omitted4 ,this is a good way to utilize fruits that are going to waste4 ,,fruit ,,juices ,the juice of oranges1 strawberries1 currants1 or any fruit makes a delicious first course for luncheon in summer time or the fruit season1 when prepared as directed below4 ,it is served cold in small glasses and eaten with a spoon4 ,take a quart of fruit-juice2 this will require about a dozen oranges1 or two quarts of strawberries or other juicy fruit2 strain it through filter paper to make it clear 7see page #dae72 put it in an earthenware or porcelain-lined saucepan on the fire1 and as soon as it steams1 stir in three teaspoonfuls of arrowroot moistened in a little cold water4 ,cook it until clear2 then add a half cupful of sugar 7or more if an acid fruit71 and as soon as the sugar is dissolved turn it into a bowl to cool4 ,at the moment of serving put a piece of ice in each glass4 ,,chapter ,,xxv ,,compotes1 ,,preserving ,,and ,,canning1 ,,pickles ,,compotes ,sidenote3 ,for plain desserts4 ,compotes are fresh fruits stewed4 ,they are good served with cake as a plain dessert4 ,in combination with rice or other molded cereals they are a very wholesome sweet for children4 ,sidenote3 ,serving4 ,make a syrup of #bh deg4 7see page #eac74 ,when it is boiling drop the fruit in1 a few pieces at a time1 so it will not get broken or crushed4 ,let it cook until tender1 but still firm enough to hold its form4 ,remove it carefully with a skimmer4 ,arrange the pieces in regular order1 overlapping1 or piled like uncooked fruit in a glass or silver dish4 ,after the fruit is cooked1 let the syrup boil down until thick1 or about #cb deg41 and strain it over the fruit4 ,let it cool before serving4 ,,apple ,,compote ,pare and core the apples2 leave them whole1 or cut them into halves1 quarters1 or thick round slices4 ,boil them until tender1 and finish as directed above4 ,have a few slices of lemon in the syrup and serve them with the fruit4 ,pieces of cinnamon and cloves boiled with the fruit give a good flavor4 ,for jellied apples boil down the syrup to the jelly point4 ,when partly cooled pour it slowly with a spoon over the apples1 so enough will adhere to give them a glaze4 ,the center of the apples may be filled with a bright-colored jelly or jam4 ,,compote ,,of ,,pears ,use pears that are not quite ripe4 ,cut them in two lengthwise1 splitting the stem4 ,remove the core carefully with a scoop4 ,boil and serve them as directed above4 ,,compote ,,of ,,peaches ,,or ,,apricots ,peel the fruit and cut it in halves4 ,prepare it as directed above4 ,mix with the syrup some meats taken from the pits4 ,,compote ,,of ,,oranges ,peel the oranges down to the pulp1 using a sharp knife4 ,cut them in two crosswise4 ,remove with a pointed knife the core and seeds from the center4 ,boil them1 one or two at a time1 until tender1 in a syrup with a little lemon-juice added1 and be careful to keep them in good shape4 ,boil the syrup down until it threads1 and pour it over the oranges piled in a glass dish4 ,a candied cherry in the center of each one gives a pretty garnish4 ,orange compote is good served plain1 or with whipped cream1 with ice-creams1 ,bavarians1 or corn-starch puddings4 ,mandarin oranges make a delicious compote4 ,illustration3 ,,compote ,,of ,,oranges ,,garnished ,,with ,,candied ,,cherries4 7,,see ,,page #ecf47 ,,preserving ,,and ,,canning ,sidenote3 ,sterilizing the fruit4 ,sidenote3 ,use of paraffin4 ,sidenote3 ,proportions4 ,sidenote3 ,utensils4 ,the success of preserving and canning depends upon heating the fruit until all germs are destroyed1 then sealing it air-tight while still scalding hot4 ,in this way no new germs of ferment or mold can reach the fruit4 ,patent jars are generally used1 and must be put into scalding water before being filled to prevent their breaking1 and also to sterilize them4 ,the preserve must be put into them scalding hot1 a spoon-handle run down the sides to liberate any bubbles of air1 the jar filled to the very brim1 and the top put on each one at once after it is filled4 ,a simple and very effectual way of hermetically sealing fruit is to cover it with paraffin4 ,this can be obtained at any pharmacy4 ,place the paraffin in a small saucepan on the side of the range2 it melts at a low degree of heat4 ,when the jar or glass is filled with hot preserves wipe the glass close to the fruit to free it of syrup4 ,cover the top with a tablespoonful of liquid paraffin1 and do not move the jar until the paraffin has set2 it will then adhere closely to the glass4 ,this will be found a very easy and satisfactory way of sealing fruits4 ,the paraffin when taken off the fruit can be washed and kept to use again4 ,in preserving1 sugar is used in the proportion of three quarters of a pound or one pound of sugar to a pound of fruit1 and the fruit is thoroughly cooked4 ,in canning1 one quarter of a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit is used1 the fruit is only thoroughly scalded1 and so retains its flavor better4 ,fruits should be under rather than overripe for preserving1 and only the finest should be selected4 ,inferior fruit may be used for jams4 ,it is most abundant when at its best1 and at this time it is cheapest4 ,a porcelain-lined kettle and wooden spoons should be used in the cooking1 and a wide-mouthed funnel is a convenience for filling the jars4 ,,preserved ,,peaches ,the skin can easily be removed from peaches1 leaving a smooth surface1 by placing them in a wire basket and plunging it for a moment into boiling lye4 ,the lye is made by adding two cupfuls of wood ashes to four quarts of water4 ,from the lye put the fruit into cold water and rinse it several times1 then rub off the skin4 ,cut each peach in two and place again in cold water to preserve the color until ready to use4 ,place in a porcelain-lined kettle three quarters the weight of sugar you have of fruit4 ,add a very little water to dissolve the sugar4 ,let it boil a minute1 and take off any scum that rises4 ,then add as much fruit as will float without crowding1 and cook until it is transparent1 but not until it loses shape4 ,remove each piece separately as soon as it is cooked4 ,when ready to fill the jars place them carefully in a pan of boiling water2 have the tops and rubbers also in hot water4 ,part of the fruit has become cooled while the rest was cooking1 but1 as it must go into the jars hot1 place it again in the boiling syrup1 a little at a time4 ,use a ladle or cup to dip out the fruit2 run a spoon-handle around the inside of the jars after they are filled to liberate any air bubbles4 ,add enough syrup to fill them to overflowing1 and adjust the rubber and top on each jar as it is filled4 ,any juice that is left over may be boiled down to a jelly1 or it may be bottled to use as flavoring or for sauces4 ,,preserved ,,pears ,peel the pears2 cut them in two lengthwise1 splitting the stem1 or they may be left whole if preferred4 ,place them carefully in jars2 fill the jars with a syrup of #cj deg4 7see page #eac72 cover the jars without fastening the tops4 ,place the jars in a boiler of warm water1 half covering them4 ,stand the jars on muffin-rings1 slats of wood1 or something to raise them off the bottom of the boiler1 or they will break while cooking4 ,cover the boiler and cook the fruit until it is tender and looks clear4 ,remove the jars carefully1 fill them completely full1 using more hot syrup1 or the contents of one of the cooked jars4 ,adjust the tops and set them to cool where the air will not strike them4 7,see canning47 ,pears may be cooked the same as peaches1 but they are such a very tender fruit1 it is better to use the method given1 as the shape is kept better in this way4 ,,preserved ,,plums ,preserve plums in the same way as directed for peaches or for pears4 ,remove the skin from them or not4 ,if left on it is likely to crack open and come off if boiled too long4 ,to prevent this1 in a measure1 prick the plums in several places with a fork before cooking4 ,,grape ,,preserves ,press the pulp out of each grape4 ,boil the pulps until tender1 then pass them through a colander to remove the seeds4 ,mix the skins with the pulp and juice1 add as many cupfuls of sugar as there are of grapes1 and boil all together until well thickened4 ,seal while hot the same as other preserves4 ,green grapes are preserved by cutting each grape in halves1 taking out the seeds1 then adding an equal quantity of sugar1 and boiling all together until of the right consistency4 ,,preserved ,,strawberries ,no4 #a ,select firm1 large berries and remove the hulls4 ,to each pound of fruit 7one basketful of berries will weigh about a pound7 add three quarters of a pound of granulated sugar4 ,mix it with the berries1 and let them stand ten to fifteen minutes1 or long enough to moisten the sugar but not soften the berries4 ,put them in a granite or porcelain-lined saucepan and let them boil slowly five to ten minutes1 or until the berries are softened3 do not stir them1 as that will break the berries1 and do not boil long enough for them to lose their shape4 ,cook one basketful of berries only at a time4 ,a larger quantity crushes by its own weight4 ,a good method is to have two saucepans and two bowls1 and leave the berries1 after being hulled1 in the baskets until ready to use2 then put a basketful at a time in a bowl with sugar sprinkled through them2 while one bowlful is being cooked1 the bowl refilled1 and the glasses filled1 the other one is ready to use4 ,in this way no time is lost1 and the cooking is accomplished in as short a time as though all were put into a preserving kettle together4 ,it is well to put strawberries into glasses4 ,one basketful of berries will fill two half-pint tumblers4 ,cover the tops with paraffin as directed above1 page #ecg4 ,,preserved ,,strawberries ,no4 #b ,fill pint jars with as many berries as they will hold2 pour over them a hot syrup of #cb deg4 7see page #eac74 ,after standing a few minutes they will shrivel1 and more berries should be added4 ,cover and cook them in a boiler as directed for preserved pears and canning4 ,strawberries require more sugar than other fruits to preserve their color1 therefore they do not can well4 ,strawberries1 if carefully prepared by either of the foregoing receipts1 will resemble the ,wiesbaden preserves4 ,,raspberry ,,preserve ,raspberries are preserved the same as strawberries4 ,,citron ,,preserve ,pare and core the citron2 cut it into strips and notch the edges2 or cut it into fancy shapes4 ,allow a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit1 and to six pounds of the fruit allow four lemons and a quarter of a pound of ginger root4 ,tie the ginger in a cloth1 and boil it in a quart and a half of water until the flavor is extracted2 then remove it1 and add to the water the sugar and the juice of the lemons2 stir until the sugar is dissolved and the syrup is clear2 take off any scum2 then add the citron1 and cook until it is clear1 but not soft enough to fall apart4 ,can and seal while hot4 ,,canning ,,apples1 ,,peaches1 ,,pears1 ,,plums1 ,,cherries1 ,,berries1 ,,etc4 ,sidenote3 ,proportions4 ,sidenote3 ,red fruits4 ,sidenote3 ,cooling4 ,canning does not differ from preserving1 except in the amount of sugar used4 ,a quarter of a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit is the rule1 but none at all need be used1 as the fruit will keep just as well without it if it is thoroughly sterilized by heat and immediately sealed4 ,fruits that require sugar when eaten fresh need sugar in like proportion when canned4 ,the fruit may be boiled in a syrup of #ad deg41 which is made of one pound of sugar to a quart of water1 and bottled the same as when preserved1 but an easier and better way is to cook it in the jars4 ,pack the fruit tightly in the jars and cover it with a syrup of #ad deg42 red fruits need more sugar to preserve their color1 and should have a syrup of #bd deg41 which is one pint of water to a pound of sugar4 ,place the jars in a boiler of water1 half covering them2 raise them off the bottom of the boiler by standing them on muffin-rings or slats of wood4 ,do not let them touch4 ,cover the boiler1 and let them cook until the fruit is tender2 the fruit will fall a little1 so the jars will have to be filled up again2 use for this the contents of another jar1 or plain boiling water2 adjust and fasten the tops at once1 and place them where the air will not strike them while cooling4 ,another way is to pack the dry jars full of fruit1 fasten down the tops at once1 place them in a boiler of cold water nearly covering them1 raise it to the boiling-point and cook for an hour1 and leave them in the water until cold again4 ,in this way they are cooked in their own juice1 and are said to retain their flavor better than where water is used4 ,canned apples make a very good substitute for fresh ones for pies1 compotes and apple-sauce4 ,,jams ,,or ,,marmalades ,sidenote3 ,testing4 ,use three quarters of a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit4 ,place the fruit1 pared and cored1 in layers with the sugar in the preserving kettle4 ,let it stand a few minutes to extract some of the juice from the fruit2 then place it on the fire and cook until it becomes a thick1 consistent mass4 ,stir it frequently to break the fruit4 ,when it has become tender1 use a potato-masher to crush it4 ,when it looks clear1 put a little on a plate1 and if it thickens1 it is done4 ,put it into tumblers and cover4 ,this does not require to be hermetically sealed4 ,in making preserves it is well to reserve all the fruit which is not perfect and make it into jam4 ,,quince ,,marmalade ,pare1 core1 and cut into pieces the fruit4 ,put the skins and cores into a kettle2 cover them with water1 and boil thirty minutes1 or until tender2 strain off the water through a colander1 and as much pulp as will pass without the skins4 ,to this add the rest of the fruit and three quarters of a pound of sugar to each pound of fruit4 ,boil it until it becomes a jelly-like mass4 ,mash the fruit as much as possible4 ,it may be colored red1 if desired1 with cochineal4 ,turn it into glasses1 tin boxes1 or wooden salt-boxes4 ,it becomes solid1 and is served cut into slices4 ,the ,russians cut it into inch squares1 and serve it as a bonbon4 ,,orange ,,marmalade ,allow the juice and grated rind of one lemon to every five oranges4 ,weigh the fruit before cutting it1 and allow three quarters of a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit4 ,remove the peel in quarters1 and boil it in plenty of water until it is tender enough to pierce easily with a broom-straw2 then drain off the water and let it cool4 ,remove the seeds and as much of the skin as possible from the pulp4 ,boil the pulp with the sugar until the orange is well cooked4 ,when the peel is cool take one piece at a time in the palm of the hand1 and with a tablespoon cut out all the white pithy part1 leaving the thin yellow rind4 ,place a number of these pieces together1 and with a sharp knife cut them into thin shreds4 ,by cutting many together in this way it is done quickly4 ,add the shredded rinds to the cooked oranges and let them cook until of the right consistency4 ,it should be very thick1 but not solid like jelly4 ,this is a very good marmalade1 and resembles the ,dundee brand4 ,,apple ,,marmalade ,make the same as directed for jams4 ,,brandy ,,peaches ,cook the fruit the same as directed for preserving peaches2 but for this purpose the peaches are left whole1 the skin left on or not1 as desired4 ,if the skins are retained they should be carefully brushed to remove all the down2 use only fine fruit4 ,when the jars are filled1 add to each quart a half cupful of brandy1 and seal2 or1 after filling the jars with fruit1 boil down the syrup until it is very thick1 and to each cupful of syrup add a cupful of brandy2 pour it over the fruit and seal4 ,california brandy serves very well for this purpose4 ,,jellies ,,currant ,,or ,,any ,,berries ,to make clear jelly use only the perfect fruit4 ,pick it over carefully and remove the stems4 ,place it in a porcelain-lined kettle and crush it enough to give a little juice so it will not burn4 ,cook it slowly until the fruit is soft1 then turn it into a heavy cloth and press out all the juice4 ,strain the juice several times if necessary1 to make it clear4 ,passing it through filter paper is recommended4 ,measure the juice1 and to each pint allow a pound of sugar4 ,put the sugar in the oven to heat1 but do not let it burn4 ,put the strained juice into the kettle and let it boil twenty minutes2 then add the hot sugar1 and stir until the sugar is dissolved and the juice is clear again4 ,pour it into glasses and let it stand until set4 ,grapes and cherries do not jelly easily1 and a little gelatine added will insure success4 ,when fruit does not jelly it is usually because it is over ripe4 ,the fruit should not be gathered after a rain1 nor should it be washed4 ,,apple ,,jelly ,wash the apples2 cut them in pieces without peeling or coring1 but remove any imperfect parts4 ,barely cover them with water and boil slowly until they are tender1 then strain off the liquor through cheese-cloth without pressing4 ,measure the juice1 and to each pint of juice allow a pound of sugar4 ,put the juice in the preserving kettle and let it boil five minutes2 then add the sugar and stir until it dissolves4 ,continue to boil it until a little dropped on a cold plate will jelly4 ,it will take twenty to thirty minutes4 ,turn it into tumblers and cover4 ,this jelly spread on the apple used in tarts improves them very much4 ,,crab-,,apple ,,jelly ,make the same as apple jelly4 ,,quince ,,jelly ,make the same as apple jelly4 ,,spiced ,,grapes ,prepare the grapes as for preserving1 by removing the skins1 boiling the pulp1 and straining out the seeds4 ,to seven pounds of fruit 7weighed before the seeds are removed71 add a cupful of strong vinegar1 a cupful of grape-juice taken from the grapes used for preserves1 two ounces of cinnamon1 one ounce of cloves 7tie the spices in a cloth so they can be removed71 three and one half pounds of sugar4 ,boil until it becomes thick like a marmalade1 which will take about an hour and a half4 ,when done turn it into glasses4 ,this is good with roast meats4 ,,plum ,,sauce ,,for ,,meats ,to each pound of ,damson plums1 add a half cupful of sugar1 one half ounce each of cinnamon1 mace1 and cloves 7tie the spices in a bag74 ,remove the stones from the plums and boil until it becomes thick like jam4 ,,sweet ,,pickled ,,peaches ,,and ,,plums ,allow three and three quarter pounds of sugar to seven pounds of fruit4 ,put the sugar into the preserving kettle with a quart of vinegar and two ounces each of cloves and a stick of cinnamon4 ,boil them for five minutes after the sugar is dissolved4 ,pare the peaches and stick a clove into each one4 ,place a few at a time in the boiling syrup and cook them until they look clear1 but are not softened enough to fall apart4 ,when all are cooked1 continue to boil the syrup until it is reduced nearly one half and pour it over the peaches4 ,plums are pickled in the same way4 ,the skins may be left on both peaches and plums if preferred2 in which case the down must be brushed off the peaches1 and the plums must be pricked with a fork in several places to prevent the skins cracking when placed in the hot syrup4 ,,pickled ,,walnuts ,gather the walnuts when well grown1 but still soft enough to be pierced through with a needle4 ,run a heavy needle through them several times and place them in strong brine1 using as much salt as the water will absorb4 ,let them remain in brine for a week or ten days1 and change the brine every other day2 then drain the nuts and expose them to the air until they have turned black4 ,pack them in jars and cover them with boiling hot vinegar prepared as follows3 ,to a gallon of vinegar add an ounce each of ginger root1 mace1 allspice1 and cloves1 and two ounces of peppercorns2 boil them together for ten minutes and strain over the nuts4 ,let them stand a month before using4 ,,cucumber ,,or ,,gherkin ,,pickles ,gather each day the cucumbers of the size desired2 rub them smooth with a cloth and place them in brine strong enough to float an egg4 ,they will keep in the brine until wanted to pickle4 ,soak the cucumbers in water for two days after taking them from the brine1 changing the water once1 and then scald them in vinegar1 or pour the boiling vinegar over them and let them stand in it two days before using4 ,put into each two quarts of vinegar an ounce of peppercorns1 a half ounce each of mustard seed and mace1 a piece of horseradish1 a piece of alum the size of a pea1 and a half cupful of sugar2 boil them together for ten minutes before straining it over the cucumbers4 ,the very small cucumbers are called gherkins4 ,,green ,,tomato ,,pickle #a peck of green tomatoes4 #b quarts of onions4 ,vinegar4 #a_/b tablespoonful of cayenne4 #a_/d tablespoonful of ground mustard4 #a teaspoonful of turmeric4 #b pounds of brown sugar4 #a_/b pound of white mustard seed4 #a_/b ounce of ground mace4 #a tablespoonful of celery seed4 #a tablespoonful of ground cloves4 ,slice the tomatoes and onions very thin2 sprinkle a little salt through them and let them stand over night4 ,drain them through a colander and put them on to boil with enough vinegar to cover them and boil slowly until they are clear and tender1 then drain them from the vinegar4 ,put into some fresh vinegar the sugar1 mustard seed1 mace1 celery seed1 and cloves1 and let them boil for a few minutes2 then pour it over the drained tomatoes1 which have been mixed with the cayenne pepper1 ground mustard1 and turmeric4 ,mix them well together2 add a half bottle of salad oil1 and when cold put it in jars4 ,,chow-,,chow ,cut into pieces1 #a_/b peck of green tomatoes4 #b large cabbages4 #ae onions4 #be cucumbers4 ,mix them together and pack them in layers with salt2 let them stand for twelve hours1 then drain off the brine and cover them with vinegar and water1 and let them stand another twelve hours4 ,drain off the vinegar and cover them with one and one half gallons of scalding hot vinegar which has been boiled a few minutes with one pint of grated horseradish1 one half pound of mustard seed1 one ounce of celery seed1 one half cupful of ground pepper1 one half cupful of turmeric1 one half cupful of cinnamon1 and four pounds of sugar4 ,let them stand until perfectly cold1 then add one cupful of salad oil and one half pound of ground mustard4 ,mix them all thoroughly together and place in jars4 ,,nasturtium ,,pickle ,pick the nasturtium seeds green2 leave a short stem on them and place them in a weak brine for two days2 then soak them in fresh water for a day4 ,pack them in jars and turn over them boiling vinegar2 seal and let them stand a month before using4 ,,chapter ,,xxvi ,,beverages ,,filtered ,,water ,sidenote3 ,boiling the water4 ,it is a recognized fact that many diseases are contracted through drinking impure water1 yet many are so careless as not to take the simple means of removing this danger4 ,it only requires boiling the water to destroy the germs4 ,this1 however1 does not remove the foreign matter1 such as decayed vegetable growth and other substances1 therefore it is well to filter as well as to boil water4 ,many good filters are made which are cheap and easy to clean4 ,the ,gate ,city ,stone ,filter is perhaps the simplest one1 being an earthen crock with a porous stone bottom4 ,although all filters claim to remove germs as well as impurities from water1 it is safer to boil it first4 ,bright1 crystal-like water in clear glass carafes is an ornamental addition to the table service as well as a convenient way of serving it4 ,if the carafes are stopped with cotton and placed in the refrigerator for several hours1 the water will be refreshingly cool1 and cracked ice1 which many do not use1 in the belief that it arrests digestion1 will not be required4 ,,to ,,freeze ,,carafes ,sidenote3 ,packing4 ,fill the bottles a little less than half full4 ,the water should be below the largest part of the bulb2 stop the bottles with cotton1 and over the top of each one invert a tin cup4 ,individual timbale-molds may be used4 ,cover the bottom of a tub with ice and salt1 place the bottles on it1 leaving some space around each one1 then fill the tub with ice and salt1 the same as in packing ice-creams1 and cover it4 ,within two or three hours the water will become frozen4 ,care must be taken that the water in the tub is never high enough to flow into the top of the carafes4 ,when ready to serve1 wipe the frozen carafes and fill them with ice water4 ,,tea ,sidenote3 ,the water4 ,you cannot have first-rate tea or coffee unless you use freshly-boiled water4 ,water that has been boiled for an hour or more lacks life1 and gives a dull taste to the decoction4 ,draw freshly filtered water and let it come to a hard boil before using4 ,scald the pot and immediately put into it the tea-leaves4 ,when the water boils hard1 pour upon the tea-leaves the required quantity of water4 ,shut down the cover of the tea-pot and let it stand just five minutes before serving4 ,sidenote3 ,proportions4 ,sidenote3 ,steeping4 ,to give the proportions of tea and water is impossible1 as such different degrees of strength are demanded4 ,one teaspoonful of tea to a pint of water1 steeped five minutes1 makes a weak tea4 ,two teaspoonfuls give the color of mahogany1 if an ,english breakfast tea is used4 ,oolong tea does not color the water very much1 so its strength cannot be as well judged in that way4 ,tea1 to be perfect1 should not steep longer than five minutes2 it may continue to grow stronger after that time1 but the flavor is not as good1 and if the leaves remain too long in the water the tea becomes bitter4 ,the ,russians1 who are reputed to have the best tea1 prepare it at first very strong1 getting almost an essence of tea2 this they dilute to the strength desired1 using water which is kept boiling in the samovar4 ,water removed from the kettle and kept in a pot where it falls below the boiling-point1 will not give satisfactory results in diluting a strong infusion4 ,sidenote3 ,the tea-bag4 ,where a quantity of tea is to be used1 as at receptions1 it is well to put the tea into a swiss muslin bag1 using enough to make a very strong infusion4 ,place the bag in the scalded pot2 add the boiling water2 after five minutes remove the bag4 ,keep a kettle of water boiling over an alcohol flame1 and use it to dilute the tea as needed4 ,the tea will then be as good as though freshly made4 ,if1 however1 the leaves are allowed to remain in the pot the tea will not be fit to use after a short time1 and no matter how much it may be diluted1 it will still have an astringent taste4 ,sidenote3 ,the tea-ball4 ,silver balls are convenient to use where one or two cups at a time only are to be made for the friend who drops in for the afternoon cup of tea4 ,the ball holding the tea is placed in the cup1 water from the boiling kettle poured over it1 and the ball removed when the water has attained the right color4 ,sidenote3 ,russian tea4 ,sidenote3 ,tea punch4 ,sidenote3 ,iced tea4 ,various preparations of tea are made by adding flavorings4 ,the so-called ,russian tea is made by adding sugar and a thin slice of lemon to each cup2 tea punch by soaking the sugar first in rum or brandy4 ,these1 however1 as well as milk1 destroy the flavor of tea and change the character of the drink4 ,iced tea is a very refreshing drink in summer4 ,it is served in glasses1 with plenty of cracked ice1 and should not be made very strong1 or it will become clouded when the ice is added4 ,iced tea is improved by adding lemon4 ,one tablespoonful of lemon-juice to a glass of tea is a good proportion4 ,,coffee ,,care ,,of ,,the ,,coffee-,,bean ,it is generally understood that tea becomes air-drawn if not kept closely covered4 ,it is also desirable to keep coffee in the same way4 ,,coffee ,,mixtures ,,and ,,brands ,sidenote3 #b_/c ,java1 #a_/c ,mocha4 ,mandhaling coffee1 which is grown by the ,dutch government on the island of ,sumatra1 is considered the finest coffee in the world4 ,the finest ,mocha which comes to this market contains twenty per cent4 of ,long ,bean4 ,the best-known mark of this coffee in ,new ,york is ,h4 ,l4 ,o4 ,g4 ,a favorite mixture is two thirds ,mandhaling to one third ,mocha4 ,the ordinary mixture of two thirds ,java to one third ,mocha is misleading1 as there are an indefinite number of inferior qualities of both ,mocha and ,java4 ,the best ,java comes from the port of ,padang in ,sumatra1 and the only true ,mocha comes from ,aden in ,arabia4 ,the finest grades of ,mexican1 ,maracaibo1 ,bogota1 and ,jamaica coffees are highly esteemed4 ,high grades of ,washed ,rio are also richly flavored coffees4 ,these high-class coffees are difficult to get unadulterated4 ,another difficulty in buying coffee is that each variety has many grades1 so the only assurance one can have of the quality received is the good faith of the grocer with whom one deals4 ,a practice among grocers is to make mixtures which they sell under their own trademark4 ,,to ,,make ,,coffee ,to have the coffee right is one of the difficulties of the housekeeper4 ,the making of coffee is a very simple operation1 but the nicety and care with which it is prepared mark the difference between the good and bad decoction4 ,the best quality of coffee carelessly made is not as acceptable as that well made from an inferior bean4 ,coffee readily absorbs foreign flavors4 ,if the pot is wiped out with a soiled cloth1 or if the coffee is strained through a flannel not perfectly sweet1 the coffee betrays it4 ,if the spout is allowed to collect a film of stale coffee1 it will ruin all the fresh coffee put into the pot4 ,to have perfect coffee1 use an earthen or china pot1 and have the water boiling when turned onto the coffee4 ,like tea1 the results will not be right if the water is allowed to fall below the boiling-point before it is used4 ,have the coffee ground to a fine powder in order to get its full flavor as well as strength4 ,there is great waste in having coffee ground coarse4 ,a pound will go three times as far in the former as in the latter case1 therefore a good coffee-mill is an economy in a household4 ,like tea1 it should also be freshly made4 ,it seems to lose its fine flavor if kept hot for any considerable time4 ,black coffee is usually made by dripping4 ,any coffee is better made in that way1 using less coffee if less strength is desired1 but a strong infusion diluted with hot milk makes a better drink than weak coffee flavored with milk4 ,,drip ,,coffee ,one heaping tablespoonful of coffee to a cupful1 or half pint1 of water will make black coffee4 ,put the coffee powder into a felt bag1 or on a thick flannel laid on a strainer and pour the boiling water over it4 ,the flannel must be thick1 and close enough to prevent the fine powder straining through4 ,if enough coffee is used to make it of much depth in the strainer1 the water will pass through very slowly and the coffee will be cold1 therefore have the pot hot before beginning1 and stand it in a pan of hot water while it is dripping4 ,coffee will not be right unless the water is violently boiling when poured on the grounds4 ,serve the coffee at once4 ,,boiled ,,coffee ,put the ground coffee into the pot1 pour over it boiling water2 let it come to the boiling-point2 remove1 and stir into it the slightly beaten white of an egg and the crushed shell2 replace it on the fire and let it boil one minute4 ,this is to clear the coffee of the fine particles held in suspension4 ,pour a tablespoonful of cold water down the spout and place it on the side of the range where it will be perfectly still for five minutes1 then pour off carefully the liquid coffee4 ,do not let the coffee boil three minutes altogether4 ,the aroma of the coffee is the escaped volatile oils--all that is lost detracts just so much from the flavor of the drink4 ,,iced ,,cafe ,,au ,,lait ,add enough cold black coffee to milk to give it the desired strength and flavor4 ,sweeten to taste and let it stand on ice until ready to serve4 ,serve it in glasses instead of cups4 ,any coffee left from breakfast prepared in this way makes a refreshing and acceptable drink for luncheon in summer4 ,,chocolate ,maillard's chocolate is excellent2 his receipt is given below4 ,for each cup of chocolate use one cupful of milk and one bar of chocolate4 ,with ,maillard's chocolate this is nearly one and a quarter ounces4 ,put the cold milk into a porcelain-lined saucepan1 break the chocolate into small pieces1 and add them to the milk4 ,place the saucepan on the fire1 and with a wooden spoon stir constantly and rapidly until the chocolate is dissolved and the milk has boiled up once4 ,beat it vigorously to make it smooth1 and serve at once4 ,more milk may be added if this is too rich4 ,chocolate should not be kept standing4#eec-99 ,,footnotes3 #eec-99 ,huyler's1 ,baker's1 and other brands of chocolate may be prepared in the same way1 the proportions being regulated by the richness desired4--,m4 ,r4 ,,cocoa ,dissolve a teaspoonful of cocoa in half a cupful of boiling water2 then add a half cupful of boiling milk and boil it for one minute1 stirring vigorously all the time4 ,sweeten to taste4 ,brioche or ,bath buns are good to serve with chocolate or cocoa for a light lunch4 ,,lemonade ,squeeze the lemons1 allowing two lemons for every three glasses of lemonade2 remove any seeds that may have fallen in1 or strain the juice if the lemonade is wanted clear4 ,sweeten the juice with sugar1 or1 better1 with sugar syrup4 ,when ready to use1 add the necessary amount of water and a large piece of ice if served in a bowl1 or put cracked ice into the glasses if only a few glassfuls are made4 ,put a thin slice of lemon or a few shavings of lemon-zest into each glass4 ,,orangeade ,to two and one half cupfuls of orange-juice1 the juice of two lemons1 and the grated rind of one orange1 add two cupfuls of syrup at #cb deg4 7see page #eac71 or sweeten to taste2 add enough water to bring it to #aa deg4 on the syrup gauge1 or to taste2 strain and place it on ice until ready to use4 ,,cobblers ,put a claret-glassful of claret into a tumbler2 add a teaspoonful of sugar1 or sweeten to taste2 fill the glass with ice cracked fine1 and add a little water if desired4 ,place a shaker over the glass and mix it well2 add a strawberry1 raspberry1 bit of pineapple1 orange1 or any fruit convenient2 add1 also1 two straws4 ,cobblers may be made of sherry1 ,catawba1 or any wine1 using a quantity in proportion to the strength desired4 ,they are meant as light cooling drinks1 and should not be strong of wine4 ,,claret ,,cup ,no4 #a #a pint of claret4 #a pint of soda4 ,juice of #a lemon4 #a sherry-glassful of liqueur4 #a slice of cucumber rind4 #a orange4 ,grapes4 ,bunch of mint4 ,large piece of ice4 ,,claret ,,cup ,no4 #b #a quart of claret4 #a glassful of white ,curacao4 #a glassful of sherry4 #a slip of borage1 or a slice of cucumber4 #a pint of soda4 ,juice of #a orange4 ,sweeten to taste4 ,,champagne ,,cup ,no4 #a ,juice of #a_/b lemon4 #a teaspoonful of powdered sugar4 #a sherry-glassful of liqueur4 #a pint of champagne4 #a pint of soda4 #a slice of cucumber4 #a slice of pineapple4 #a orange cut in pieces4 ,bunch of mint4 ,large piece of ice4 ,,champagne ,,cup ,no4 #b #a quart of champagne4 #a glassful of white ,curacao4 #a glassful of sherry4 ,juice of #a orange4 #a slip of borage1 or a slice of cucumber1 or green celery-tops4 #a pint of ,apollinaris4 ,,moselle ,,cup #a quart of ,braunberger or ,zeltinger4 #a pony of brandy4 ,juice of #a orange4 ,juice of #a lemon4 #a slip of borage or a slice of cucumber4 #a pint of ,apollinaris4 ,no sugar4 ,,sauterne ,,cup ,use brand ,graves4 ,to a quart of ,sauterne add the strained juice of four large lemons4 ,sweeten with powdered sugar to taste1 add a cocktail glassful of brandy1 two thirds glassful of maraschino 7noyau can be used1 but it is not so good71 and a teaspoonful of ,angostura bitters4 ,put it on ice until ready to use1 and then1 not before1 add a bottle of ,delatour soda1 also chilled1 or the same amount of soda from syphon4 ,lastly1 add six thin slices of cucumber and a few pieces of any fruit convenient1 such as pineapple1 raspberries1 strawberries1 etc41 and a piece of ice4 ,borage is better than cucumber for cups if it can be had4 ,,cider ,,cup #a pint of cider4 #a sherry-glassful of sherry4 #a sherry-glassful of brandy4 #a liqueur-glassful of ,curacao4 ,piece of ice4 #a_/b of #a orange sliced4 #a yellow rind of #a lemon4 #a slice of cucumber4 ,a dash of nutmeg4 ,sugar to taste4 ,,the ,,thorp ,,cocktail ,the following formula is for one cocktail only2 the same proportions must be observed in making any number of them4 ,have the glasses well chilled before beginning1 and always use sugar syrup instead of sugar for sweetening4 #a teaspoonful of sugar syrup4 #a teaspoonful of orange bitters4 #e teaspoonfuls of ,old ,tom gin4 #e drops of noyau or maraschino4 ,enough cracked ice to chill but not to dilute4 ,stir with a spoon until thoroughly chilled and blended4 ,the mixture must not be shaken1 as that fills it with air4 ,lastly1 take a piece of lemon zest the size of a ten-cent piece1 hold it over the cocktail1 and express a little of the oil1 then drop it in the glass4 ,,egg-,,nog ,beat the yolk of one egg and a teaspoonful of sugar to a light cream2 whip the white of the egg to a stiff froth2 mix them together2 turn them into a glass2 add one teaspoonful of rum or brandy and as much milk as the glass will hold4 ,stir or shake it well together2 add more sugar and rum if desired4 ,grate a dash of nutmeg over the top2 whipped cream may be used instead of milk1 and will give more nourishment when it is used for an invalid4 ,,milk ,,shake ,fill a glass two thirds full of milk2 sweeten it to taste with any fruit syrup1 or with a syrup made of boiled sugar flavored with vanilla1 orange-flower water1 or any liqueur2 strained preserve of any kind or liquefied jelly may be used4 ,fill up the glass with cracked ice and shake together until well mixed4 ,,milk ,,punch ,add to a glass of milk a teaspoonful or more of sherry1 brandy1 or rum2 sweeten to taste2 shake well and dust over the top a little grated nutmeg4 ,,fruit ,,syrups ,a refreshing drink can be made of fresh strawberries1 raspberries1 cherries1 or currants4 ,cook a quart of fruit with a pint of water until well softened2 then strain and press out the juice through a heavy cloth4 ,when cold1 sweeten and dilute to taste and serve in glasses filled with cracked ice4 ,,grape-,,juice ,add a quart of water to three quarts of grapes1 free from the stems2 let them come slowly to the boiling-point2 then strain through a thick cloth4 ,return the liquid to the fire1 let it again come to the boiling-point1 and turn at once into glass jars and seal immediately4 ,use a porcelain-lined kettle and wooden spoon in preparing the juice4 ,,raspberry ,,vinegar ,put three quarts of ripe raspberries into an earthen bowl2 pour over them a quart of vinegar2 at the end of twenty-four hours press and strain out the liquor and turn it over another three quarts of fresh ripe berries4 ,let it stand another twenty-four hours2 again express and strain the juice1 and to each pint add a pound of sugar1 and boil for twenty minutes4 ,turn it into bottles1 and cork when cold4 ,when used dilute the raspberry vinegar with three parts of water4 ,,koumiss ,koumiss1 which is simply fermented milk1 can easily be made at home after the receipt given below1 and can then be had sweet and is much more palatable than the acid koumiss sold at pharmacies4 ,it is a valuable drink or diet for invalids with weak digestion1 or for dyspeptics4 ,sidenote3 ,driving the corks4 ,sidenote3 ,tying the corks4 ,for making koumiss it is necessary to have strong bottles 7champagne bottles are best71 and they must be scrupulously clean4 ,a corking machine is requisite for driving in the corks4 ,this is placed over the bottle2 the cork1 which has steamed an hour or more in hot water until softened1 is placed in the side opening and the rammer pounded until the cork is free from the machine4 ,the cork must be tied down to insure safety4 ,a loop of twine is placed over it1 then drawn tight around the neck of the bottle1 brought back1 and tied over the top of the cork4 ,illustration3 ,,utensil ,,for ,,driving ,,corks ,,into ,,bottles4 ,illustration3 ,,method ,,of ,,tying ,,down ,,corks ,,in ,,koumiss ,,bottles4 ,sidenote3 ,the champagne tap4 ,a champagne tap for drawing the koumiss is also necessary1 as it contains so much gas1 it is impossible to draw the cork without losing a good part of the contents of the bottle4 ,illustration3 ,,champagne ,,tap ,,for ,,drawing ,,koumiss ,,or ,,any ,,effervescing ,,drink ,,without ,,uncorking ,,the ,,bottle4 ,illustration3 ,,shakers ,,for ,,mixing ,,any ,,iced ,,drinks4 ,,receipt4--,fill quart bottles three quarters full of fresh milk2 add to each one a tablespoonful of fresh brewer's yeast and a tablespoonful of sugar syrup4 ,the syrup is made by boiling sugar and water together to a syrup 7the sugar must be used in this form74 ,shake the bottles for some minutes to thoroughly mix the ingredients1 then fill them nearly full with milk and shake them again4 ,cork and tie them1 and stand them upright in a cool place for two and a half days2 then turn them on the side and use as needed4 ,they should be kept in a cool1 dark place1 so the fermentation will be slow1 and the temperature should be about #eb deg41 or low enough to prevent the milk from souring4 ,brewer's yeast is best and gives the koumiss the taste of beer2 but compressed yeast may be used1 a fifth of a cake dissolved being added to each bottleful of milk4 ,,chapter ,,xxvii ,,wines ,the temperance movement has made great advance since the days when it was not considered etiquette for a man to leave the table sober1 and also from recent times when men lingered at the table after the ladies had withdrawn1 to partake of strong liquors with their cigars4 ,to-day there are some people who exclude wine entirely from their table1 and many others who serve it only in moderation4 ,it is common now to have but three kinds1 such as sherry1 claret and champagne1 and sometimes only one4 ,in this respect1 therefore1 one may follow his own conviction without fear of being considered peculiar4 ,the usual order of serving wines is as follows3 ,sidenote3 ,white wines4 ,with the first course of the dinner there should be served a white wine of some kind1 such as ,niersteiner1 ,hochheimer1 or ,liebfrauenmilch amongst the ,rhine wines2 ,zeltinger1 ,josephshoefer1 or ,scharzberger ,muscatel amongst the ,moselle wines2 ,haut ,barsac1 ,haut ,sauterne1 or ,chateau ,yquem amongst the white ,bordeaux wines2 and ,chablis1 ,nuersault or ,montrachet amongst the white ,burgundies4 ,sidenote3 ,sherry4 ,sidenote3 ,champagne4 ,sidenote3 ,claret4 ,sidenote3 ,burgundy4 ,sidenote3 ,temperature4 ,sherry is served with soup4 ,it should be light and dry1 and should be chilled by being placed in the ice-box for some time before dinner4 ,champagne is now served with the fish and continued all through dinner4 ,claret or ,burgundy is served with the game4 ,pontet ,canet1 ,larose1 ,leoville1 ,margaux1 and ,lafite are standard vintages amongst the clarets4 ,chambertin1 ,clos de ,tart1 ,clos de ,vougeot and ,romanee amongst the ,burgundies4 ,claret is sometimes1 and very properly1 served at the same time as champagne1 as many people drink no other wine4 ,in this case a higher grade of claret or a fine ,burgundy should be served with the game4 ,the white ,bordeaux and ,burgundy wines should be served cool4 ,rhine and ,moselle wines are best at a temperature of about #dj deg4 ,f4 ,sidenote3 ,sweet champagne4 ,sidenote3 ,care of wines4 ,sidenote3 ,decanting4 ,the champagne should be very dry 7brut7 and served very cold4 ,half an hour in ice and salt before dinner will bring it to about the right temperature4 ,sweet champagnes are but seldom served nowadays1 and are more appreciated1 perhaps1 at ladies' luncheons than at dinners4 ,sweet champagne cannot be too cold and should be frappe if convenient4 ,clarets and ,burgundies should stand upright on the dining-room mantelpiece for at least twenty-four hours before they are required1 in order that the wine may acquire the temperature of the room1 as well as be prepared for decanting4 ,wines old in bottle will form more or less deposit1 which1 if shaken up with the wine1 will injure it4 ,after standing twenty-four hours the sediment will fall and the wine should then be decanted 7with the aid of a candle71 care being taken that no sediment passes into the decanter4 ,sidenote3 ,port4 ,neither claret nor ,burgundy is good the second day after decanting4 ,they contain too small a percentage of alcohol to keep their flavor more than a few hours after the bottle is opened1 and what remains over from dinner should be put into the vinegar demijohn4 ,ports and ,madeiras are but little used at dinners1 but may still be served with the cheese at the end of dinner1 or with the dessert4 ,a glass of port with a biscuit at five o'clock is very popular in many quarters1 and will be welcomed by those who are afraid of tea4 ,sidenote3 ,madeira4 ,sidenote3 ,brandy4 ,sidenote3 ,liqueurs4 ,a fine ,madeira may be served with the soup instead of sherry1 and is the wine par excellence to drink with terrapin4 ,a superior quality of brandy and various liqueurs are usually served with coffee4 ,in buying wines it is always best to go directly to a reliable wine merchant and take his advice4 ,especially is this true when the buyer himself has no great knowledge of the different kinds of wines4 ,it has been said that a man's wine merchant should stand in as close relation to him as his lawyer or his physician4 ,,indexes ,,alphabetical ,,index ,a ,agra ,dolce1 #bia4 ,allemande ,sauce1 #bgi4 ,almonds1 burnt1 #ebj4 ,chopping1 #ei4 ,hardbake1 #ebf4 ,salted1 #ecc4 ,no4 #b1 #ecc4 ,sugared1 #ebj4 ,wafers1 #dgh4 ,anchovy canapes1 #cfh4 ,angel cake1 #dfg4 ,ice-cream1 #dig4 ,parfait1 #eje4 ,angelica1 #cib4 ,apples1 #ecj4 ,baked for breakfast1 #dcb4 luncheon1 #dcb4 ,compote of1 #ece4 ,clarified1 #bdc4 ,charlotte1 #dcj4 ,dumplings1 #dbi4 ,flaming1 #dcb4 ,fritters1 #dbg4 ,fried with pork1 #agf4 ,jelly1 #edd4 ,marmalade of1 #edc4 ,pie1 #ded4 ,pudding1 #dbi4 ,sauce1 #bdc1 #bhh4 ,souffle1 #dbd4 ,with rice1 #dcj4 ,no4 #b1 #dca4 ,corn-starch1 #dcb4 ,apricot ,sauce1 #ddf4 ,artichokes1 #bbj4 ,bottoms1 #bba4 ,asparagus1 #baa4 ,cream of1 #ajf4 ,tips1 #bab4 ,aspic jelly1 #cba4 ,to chop1 #cbc4 ,to clear1 #cbb4 ,chicken1 #cbc4 ,croutons1 #cbc4 ,to mold1 #cbc4 ,to ornament molds for1 #cbd4 ,quick1 #cbb4 ,of pate en ,bellevue1 #chd4 ,b ,baba1 #ddj4 ,bacon1 #agh4 how to cut1 #gh4 ,baked ,apples1 #dcb4 ,beans1 #bag1 #bcd4 ,custard1 #cif4 ,fish1 #aae4 ,ham1 #agg4 ,lobster1 #acg4 ,macaroni1 #bbe4 ,baking1 #fi4 ,bread1 #cdc4 ,cake1 #dfd4 ,custards1 #cif4 ,balloons1 #dbh4 ,banana trifle1 #dab4 ,bananas1 sliced1 #eca4 ,sauted1 fried1 #eca4 ,barbecue of fish1 #cca4 ,bath buns1 #ceh4 ,batter pudding1 #dbh4 ,bavarian creams1 #djj4 ,general directions for making1 #djj4 ,chocolate1 #dja4 ,diplomatic1 #djc4 ,fruit1 #dja4 en surprise1 #djb4 ,italian cream1 #dja4 ,panachee1 #djb4 ,plain1 #djj4 ,rice1 #djb4 ,beans1 #bag4 ,baked1 #bag1 #bcd4 ,boiled1 #bag4 ,croquettes of1 #bag4 ,dried1 #bag4 ,lima1 #baj4 ,puree of1 #bag4 ,salads1 #cgg4 ,soup1 #bbi1 #bef4 ,string1 #bji4 ,bearnaise sauce1 #bhh4 ,beating1 #gh4 ,bechamel sauce1 #bgi4 ,beef1 #adf4 a la mode1 #adh4 ,bouilli1 #adi4 ,braised1 #adg4 ,cold roast1 #aea4 ,corned1 #aeg1 #bcd4 hash1 #aeh4 ,fillet of1 #adi4 ,how to buy1 #aej4 ,inside flank of1 #aec4 ,pie1 #aeb4 ,raw sandwiches1 #cfg4 ,ragout of1 #aec4 ,to roast1 #adf4 ,rolled roast of1 #adf4 ,round of1 #adg4 ,shin of1 to prepare1 #bej4 ,stock1 #hh4 ,tongue1 #agd4 ,warmed over1 #aeb4 ,beefsteaks1 #aee4 ,to broil1 #aef4 ,pie1 #bce4 ,pudding1 #bea4 ,beets1 #bag4 ,berries1 #eca4 ,berry ,design for molds1 #cbf4 ,beverages1 #edh4 ,bird's-,nest salad1 #che4 ,bischoff sauce1 #ddg4 ,biscuits1 beaten1 #bdg4 ,bran1 #ceg4 ,dough fritters1 #dbh4 ,tea1 #ceb4 ,biscuit glace1 #ejf4 ,bisque of lobster1 #aji4 ,black bean soup1 #bbi4 ,blanc-mange1 #cii4 ,blueberry pudding1 #bda4 ,boiled beans1 #bag4 ,cabbage1 #bab1 #bec4 ,calf's head1 #age4 ,chicken1 #ahe4 ,cucumbers1 #bah4 ,custard1 #cid4 ,eggs1 #bfb4 ,fish1 #aad4 ,ham1 #agg4 ,lobster1 #acf4 ,mutton1 #afc4 ,boiling1 #fg4 ,sugar1 #eaj4 ,bonbons1 #ebb4 ,bone1 to1 a fowl1 #aha4 ,bones1 grilled1 #ahh4 ,marrow1 #aei4 ,boned chicken1 #ahb4 ,turkey1 #aic4 ,shoulder of mutton1 #afc4 ,shoulder of veal1 #afh4 ,boning1 #gg4 ,boston brown bread1 #bcg1 #cdg4 ,boudins ,rouennais1 #cjb4 ,bouilli1 #adi4 ,salad1 #chc4 ,bouillon1 #ig4 ,bouquet for soups1 #he4 ,brains1 calf1 #cjg4 ,marinade of1 #cjg4 ,braising1 #ga4 ,braised beef1 #adg4 ,chicken1 #ahf4 ,bran biscuits1 #ceg4 ,brandy peaches1 #edc4 ,sauce1 #dde4 ,bread1 #cch4 ,general directions for making1 #cdj4 ,baking1 #cdc4 ,boston brown1 #bcg1 #cdg4 ,braids and twists of1 #cej4 ,care of1 #cdd4 ,cake1 #dhb4 ,corn1 #cec4 soft1 #bdg4 ,fritters1 #cdi4 ,graham1 #cdf4 ,gluten1 #cdg4 ,made with baking powder1 #cdf4 ,milk1 #cde4 ,mixing1 #cdb4 ,pans1 #cdd4 ,panada1 #bih4 ,potato1 #cde4 ,pulled1 #cdi4 ,puddings1 #dcd4 ,rolls1 #cdi4 ,sauce1 #bhg4 ,sticks1 #ceg4 ,tarts1 #dce4 ,thin ,indian1 #bcf4 ,water1 ,no4 #a1 #cde4 ,no4 #b1 #cde4 ,whole wheat1 #cdf4 ,bread and ,butter ,pudding1 #dcd4 ,brioche1 #cei4 ,roll1 #cfj4 ,crown1 #cfj4 ,for timbales1 #cfa4 ,timbale of1 #cfa4 ,brod ,torte1 #dgb4 ,broiled ,lobster1 #acg4 ,oysters1 #acb4 ,broiling1 #gj4 ,broth1 ,chicken1 #ie4 ,clam1 #ie4 ,mutton1 #ie4 ,made quickly for invalids1 #if4 ,brown ,betty1 #dbi4 ,brown butter sauce1 #bia4 ,brown sauce1 #bhb4 ,brown stock1 #hh4 ,browned oysters1 #bca4 ,brussels sprouts1 #bad4 ,buckwheat cakes1 #cfc4 ,buns1 ,bath1 #ceh4 ,brioche1 #cfj4 ,burnt almonds1 #ebj4 ,butter1 #cd1 #eh4 ,how to make1 #beh4 ,c ,cabbage1 #bab4 ,boiled1 #bab1 #bec4 ,hot slaw1 #bad4 ,with ,cheese1 #bac4 ,swedish1 #bac4 ,cabinet puddings1 #dch4 ,cafe frappe1 #eji4 ,parfait1 #ejd4 au lait1 iced1 #eec4 ,cake1 #dfb4 ,rules for making1 #dfb4 ,to line tins with paper1 #dfc4 ,to grease pans1 #dfd4 ,to bake1 #dfd4 ,mixing sponge1 #dfe4 ,mixing batter1 #dfe4 ,angel1 #dfg4 ,almond wafers1 #dgh4 ,bread1 #dhb4 ,brod ,torte1 #dgb4 ,cakes1 small fancy1 #dge4 ,carolines1 #dge4 ,chocolate eclairs1 #dgd4 ,chocolate filling for1 #dfi4 ,cocoanut balls1 #dgg4 ,coffee1 #ceh ,cookies1 plain1 #dha4 ,cream1 #dgd4 ,cream filling for1 #dfh4 ,cream cakes and eclairs1 #dgc4 ,crullers1 #dha4 ,cup1 plain1 #dgj4 ,cup1 richer1 #dga4 ,doughnuts1 #dha4 ,eclairs1 #dgd4 ,election1 #bdd4 ,fruit1 plain1 #dgb4 ,fruit1 rich1 #dgc4 ,garnishing1 #dhf4 ,gauffres1 #dgi4 ,genoese1 #dfg4 ,gingerbread1 soft1 #dhc4 ,gingersnaps1 #dha4 ,gold and silver1 #dgj4 ,hoe1 #bdf4 ,hoe1 ,no4 #b1 #bdg4 ,hoe1 ,colonial1 #bcg4 ,hominy1 #cef4 ,icing and decorating1 #dhc4 ,jelly rolls1 #dfh4 ,johnny1 #bcg4 ,jumbles1 cookies1 plain1 #dhj4 ,jumbles1 #dhj4 ,layer1 #dfh4 ,lady fingers1 #dgf4 ,little pound-cakes1 #dgh4 ,macaroons1 #dgg4 ,madeleines1 #dgg4 ,marble1 #dgj4 ,meringues and kisses1 #dge4 ,molasses1 #dhc4 ,one egg1 #dhb4 ,orange1 #dfi4 ,orange filling for1 #dfi4 ,orange quarters1 #dgh4 ,pound1 #dga4 ,pistachio1 #dfi4 ,sand tarts1 #dhj4 ,sponge1 #dff4 ,sunshine1 #dfg4 ,uses for stale1 #daa4 ,venetian cakes1 #dgi4 ,warren's1 #dhb4 ,white1 #dga4 ,white sponge1 #dfg4 ,with custard1 #daa4 ,calf's brains1 #cjg4 a la poulette1 #cjh4 a la vinaigrette1 #cjg4 ,head boiled1 #age4 ,with vinaigrette sauce1 #agf4 ,soup1 #ajc4 ,heart1 #agd4 ,liver1 #agb4 ,canapes1 #cfh4 ,anchovy1 #cfh4 ,cheese1 #cfh1 #cga4 ,ham1 #cfh4 ,lorenzo1 #cfi4 ,pineapple1 #ccf4 ,sardine1 #cfh4 ,canary pudding1 #dcf4 ,candied fruits1 ,california1 #cib4 ,candies1 #eag4 ,general remarks about making1 #eag4 ,candy1 ,molasses1 #ebg4 ,peanut1 #ebg4 ,taffy1 #ebg4 ,canned fruits1 #cic4 ,canning1 #ecf4 ,canvasback ducks1 #aif4 ,caper sauce1 #afd1 #bgi4 ,carafes1 to freeze1 #edh4 ,caramel1 #gh1 #cia1 #ebb4 ,carameled nuts1 #ebf4 ,caramels1 chocolate1 #ebb4 ,vanilla1 coffee1 maple1 #ebb4 ,caramel custard1 #cif4 ,ice-cream1 #dif4 ,carrots and turnips1 #baf4 ,casserole of rice1 #cbg4 ,of potato1 #cbg ,cauliflower1 #bad4 au gratin1 #bae4 ,salad1 #cgg4 ,celery1 cream of1 #ajf4 ,stewed1 #baf4 au jus1 #baf4 ,salad1 #cgf4 ,and walnut salad1 #cha4 ,sauce1 #bgi4 ,cereals1 #bbg4 ,chafing dish cookery1 #cbi4 ,kind of1 to use1 #cbi4 ,dishes suitable for1 #ccj4 ,oysters in1 #bcc1 #cca4 ,meats in1 #cce4 ,champagne cup1 ,no4 #a1 #eee4 ,no4 #b1 #eee4 ,jelly1 #daf4 with flowers1 #daf4 ,sauce1 #bhc4 ,charlotte1 apple1 #dcj4 ,russe1 #djc4 ,filling1 ,no4 #a1 #djd4 ,no4 #b 7,with ,eggs71 #dje4 ,no4 #c 7,with ,fruit71 #dje4 ,no4 #d1 #dje4 ,no4 #e1 #dje4 ,princesse de ,galles1 #djf4 ,strawberry1 #djf4 ,timbale of ,brioche1 #djf4 ,chartreuse1 #hc4 ,of chicken1 #aij4 ,of spinach1 #baa4 ,chateaubriand1 #aeg4 ,chaudfroid of chicken1 #aia4 ,of sweetbreads1 #cjf4 ,sauce1 #bha4 ,cheese1 #cfi4 ,cottage1 #cgc4 ,dishes1 #cfi4 ,general directions for1 #cfi4 ,canapes1 #cfh1 #cga4 ,and crackers1 #cga4 ,fondue1 #cce4 ,golden ,buck1 #cgb4 ,patties1 #cgc4 ,sandwiches1 #cfg4 ,souffle1 #cgj4 ,straws1 #cgb4 ,welsh ,rarebit1 #cga4 ,cherry bread pudding1 #bda4 ,chestnuts1 candied1 7marrons glace71 #eba4 ,parfait of1 #ejf4 ,pain de marrons1 #dbj4 ,puree1 #bae1 #daj4 ,stuffing1 #ahe4 ,with cream1 #daj4 ,chickens1 #agi4 ,to judge of1 #agi4 ,to clean and draw1 #ahj4 ,to bone1 #aha4 ,to truss1 #ahc4 a la ,vienne1 #ahi4 ,aspic1 #cbc4 ,aspic with walnuts1 #chd4 ,baltimore style1 #ahi4 ,boiled1 #ahe4 ,braised1 #ahf4 ,breasts with poulette sauce1 #aij4 ,broiled1 #ahf4 ,broth1 #ie4 ,consomme1 #ajj4 ,chartreuse of1 #aij4 ,chaudfroid1 #aia4 ,fricassee1 white1 brown1 #ahf4 ,fried1 #ahg4 ,fritters1 #ahg4 ,gumbo1 #bdi4 ,imperial1 #ahi4 ,jellied1 boned1 #ahb4 ,legs stuffed1 #ahh4 ,livers1 #cji1 #ccc4 ,mayonnaise1 #aib4 ,pie1 ,english1 #aib4 ,puree1 #caj4 ,souffle1 #aij4 ,soup1 plain1 #ajj4 ,chocolate1 #chh1 #eec4 ,to melt1 #chh4 ,bavarian1 #dja4 ,caramels1 #ebb4 ,with condensed milk1 #ccg4 ,cream1 #cig4 ,creams1 #ebd4 ,custards1 #cie4 ,eclairs1 #dgd4 ,filling for cake1 #dfi4 ,ice-cream1 #dif4 ,icing ,no4 #a1 #dhd4 ,no4 #b1 #dhe4 ,no4 #c1 #dhe4 ,parfait1 #ejd4 ,peppermints1 #ebe4 ,praline1 #ejd4 ,pudding1 #cih4 ,sauce1 #dce1 #ddg4 ,souffle1 #dbc4 ,chops cut from shoulder1 #bec4 ,fish1 #aba4 ,lobster1 #ach4 ,mutton1 #afe4 ,in paper cases1 #aff4 a la ,maintenon1 #afg4 ,pork1 #agg4 ,chow-chow1 #edf4 ,chowder1 clam1 #aaa1 #bcj4 ,fish1 #aaj1 #bcj4 ,potato1 #aaj4 ,christmas plum pudding1 #dcg4 ,cider cup1 #eef4 ,clam broth1 #ie4 ,chowder1 #aaa1 #bcj4 ,fritters1 #acf4 ,soup1 #ajd1 #bcj4 ,clams1 #ace4 ,to open1 #ace4 ,cream of1 #ajg4 ,creamed1 #ace4 ,roasted1 #acf4 ,claret cup ,no4 #a1 #eee4 ,no4 #b1 #eee4 ,clarified apples1 #bdc4 ,clarifying fat1 #gd4 ,fruit juices1 #dae4 ,jelly1 #dac4 ,soups1 #hf4 ,club house fish balls1 #abh4 ,cobblers1 #eed4 ,cocoa1 #eed4 ,cocoanut balls1 #dgg4 ,cakes1 #ebe4 ,creams1 #ebd4 ,pie1 #def4 ,pudding1 #cih4 ,sauce1 #ddi4 ,codfish and cream1 #bcc4 ,codfish balls1 #abh1 #bcb4 ,salt1 #abg4 ,coffee1 #eea4 ,care of beans1 #eea4 ,mixtures and brands1 #eea4 ,to make1 #eea4 ,drip1 #eeb4 ,cake1 #ceh4 ,ice-cream1 #dig4 ,iced 7au lait71 #eec4 ,icing for eclairs1 #dhe4 ,jelly1 #daf4 ,cold chicken pie1 #aib4 ,desserts1 #cid4 ,jelly sauce1 #ddi4 ,tongue1 #age4 ,fish1 #abc4 ,roast beef1 #aea4 ,slaw1 #cgh4 ,coloring1 #cib4 ,soups1 #hg4 ,sugar1 #cic4 ,common stock1 #hg4 ,compote of apples1 #ece4 ,oranges1 #ecf4 ,peaches and apricots1 #ecf4 ,pears1 #ecf4 ,consomme1 #ih1 #ajj4 ,cookies1 plain1 #dha4 ,cooking for pleasure1 #ch4 ,corned beef1 #aeg1 #bcd4 ,hash1 #aeh4 ,corn bread 7soft71 #bdg4 ,no4 #a1 #cec4 ,no4 #b1 #cec4 ,canned1 #bbj4 ,cream of1 #ajf4 ,dodgers1 #bdg4 ,on the ear1 #bbj4 ,mock oysters1 #bbj4 ,pudding1 #bcf4 ,cornmeal mush1 #bbh4 ,fried1 #bbd4 ,cornstarch with apples1 #dcb4 ,pudding1 plain1 #cig4 ,with canned fruit1 #cih4 cocoanut1 #cih4 chocolate1 #cih4 ,chocolates1 #cih4 ,cottage pudding1 #dce4 ,courses1 #bd4 ,court bouillon1 #aae4 ,crab-apple jelly1 #edd4 ,crabs1 #ada4 ,deviled1 #ada4 ,crabs1 oyster1 #adc1 #caj4 ,entree of1 #caj4 ,soft-shell1 #adb4 ,stew1 #add4 ,st4 ,laurent1 #adc4 ,stuffed with mushrooms1 #adb4 ,toast1 #ccd4 ,cracked wheat1 #bbh4 ,cranberry jelly1 #bdd4 ,pie1 #def4 ,sauce1 #bhg4 ,cream of asparagus1 #ajf4 ,celery1 #ajf4 ,clams1 #ajg4 ,of corn1 #ajf4 ,of green peas1 #ajf4 ,of oysters1 #ajh4 ,of string beans1 #ajf4 ,cakes1 #dgd4 ,chicken forcemeat1 ,no4 #a1 #big4 ,no4 #b1 #big4 ,czarina1 #daj4 ,devonshire1 #beh4 ,dressing1 #bce4 ,fried1 #dda4 ,italian1 #dja4 ,pie1 #dee4 ,to whip1 #djh4 ,soups1 #hd1 #aje4 ,whips1 #dji4 ,creamed clams1 #ace4 dishes1 #ccb4 mackerel1 #abg4 ,creams1 chocolate1 #ebd4 ,cocoanut1 #ebd4 ,nut1 #ebc4 ,peppermint1 #ebe4 ,creme ,parisienne1 #dda4 ,croquenbouche of ,macaroons1 #djh4 ,croquettes1 #bib4 ,sauce for mixing1 #bic4 ,to mold1 #bic4 ,to fry1 #bid4 ,materials used for1 #bie4 ,bean1 #bag4 ,egg1 #bgb4 ,potato1 #bjb4 ,sweet potato1 #bjg4 ,croustade of shrimps1 #acj4 ,bread1 #cbh4 ,rolls1 #cbh4 ,croute-au-pot1 #hi4 ,croutons and croustades1 #ha4 ,crullers1 #dha4 ,crumbs1 #ea1 #ge4 ,crumpets1 #cee4 ,cucumbers1 boiled1 #bah4 ,pickles1 #ede4 ,salad for fish1 #cgg4 ,stuffed1 #bah4 ,and tomato salad1 #cgg4 ,cup cake1 #dgj1 #dga4 ,currant jelly1 #edc4 ,shortcake1 #ddb4 ,currants1 #eca4 ,curried eggs1 #bga4 ,curry1 #bed4 ,madras1 #bed4 ,sauce1 #bhd4 ,custards1 #cid4 ,baked1 #cif4 ,boiled1 ,no4 #a1 #cid4 ,no4 #b1 #cie4 ,caramel1 #cif4 ,chocolate1 #cie4 baked1 #cig4 cream1 #cig4 ,rennet1 #cig4 ,sauce1 boiled1 #ddg4 ,d ,dabs1 #bch4 ,daisy designs for molds1 #cbf4 ,daubing1 #gf4 ,decorating cakes1 #dhf4 ,decorations for meat jelly1 #cbf4 ,desserts1 information pertaining to1 #chf4 ,cold1 #cid4 ,deviled crabs1 #ada4 ,devonshire cream1 #beh4 ,diplomatic ,bavarian1 #djc4 ,pudding1 #djc4 ,dishes a la ,newburg1 #aci1 #ccc4 ,doughnuts1 #dha4 ,dried beans1 #bag4 ,mushrooms1 #cbj4 ,drip coffee1 #eeb4 ,drippings1 #ea1 #ei4 ,ducks1 tame1 #aie4 ,canvasbacks and redheads1 #aif4 ,salmi of1 #aif4 ,dumplings1 apple1 #dbi4 ,with baking powder1 #agj4 suet1 #agj4 ,e ,eclairs1 #dgc4 ,chocolate1 vanilla1 coffee1 #dgd4 ,economical living1 #dd4 ,eggs1 #eh1 #bfa4 a l',aurore1 #bgj4 a la ,bourguinonne1 #bgj4 a la ,polignac1 #bfg4 a la ,reine1 #bgc4 a la ,villeroi1 #bfi4 au beurre noir1 #bgc4 au miroir1 #bff4 ,balls for soup1 #ib4 ,boiled1 #bfb4 ,cocotte1 #bff4 ,croquettes1 #bgb4 ,curried1 #bga4 ,fried1 #bfd4 ,golden cream toast1 #bgj4 ,how to judge and keep1 #bfa4 ,livingston1 #bgc4 ,nog1 #eeg4 ,omelet1 #bfd4 ,poached1 #bfc4 ,on anchovy toast1 #bfh4 7entree71 #bfh4 ,salads1 #cha4 ,sandwiches1 #cff4 ,sauce1 #bgh4 ,scrambled1 #bfd4 ,shirred1 #bff4 ,stuffed1 #bga1 #bgb4 ,sur le plat1 #bff4 ,with tomatoes1 #bfh1 #ccb4 ,in tomatoes1 #chj4 ,to whip1 #chi1 #dfc4 ,plant1 #bae4 stuffed1 #bae4 ,election cake1 #bdd4 ,emergencies1 #ee4 ,english muffins1 #cee4 ,enterprise chopper1 #bic4 ,entrees1 #bib4 ,espagnole sauce1 #bhb4 ,f ,false terrapin1 #cjh4 ,fancy molding1 #dac4 ,in aspic1 #cbd4 ,farinaceous foods1 #bbb4 ,farina balls1 #bbc4 ,pudding1 #dbd4 ,boiled1 #dcf4 ,fat1 to clarify1 #gd4 ,to try out1 #gd4 ,saving1 #ea4 ,figs1 #eca4 ,fig pudding1 #dch4 ,fillet of beef1 #adi4 ,fillets of fish1 #aab1 #aah1 #abe4 ,fillets mignon1 #aeg4 ,of salmon1 #acj4 ,filtered water1 #edh4 ,fish1 #aab4 ,balls1 #abh1 #bcb4 fresh1 #abh4 ,baked1 #aae4 ,barbecue of1 #cca4 ,bones of1 #aab4 ,to bone and remove fillets1 #aab4 ,to boil1 #aac4 ,time to boil1 #aac4 ,to boil whole1 #aad4 ,to serve boiled1 #aad4 ,sauces for boiled1 #aad4 ,court bouillon for1 #aae4 ,to broil1 #aaf4 ,to carve1 #aac4 ,cold1 #abc4 ,cooking1 #aab4 ,chops1 #aba4 ,chowder1 #aaj1 #bcj4 ,dish for pink luncheon1 #abd4 ,dressing1 #aab4 ,fillets of1 #aab1 #aah1 #abb1 #abe4 ,fillets of1 baked with custard or tomatoes1 #abb4 ,to fry1 #aag4 ,fillets of fried1 #aah4 ,freshness of1 #aab4 ,frozen1 #aab4 ,forcemeat of1 #big4 ,garnishing1 #aad4 ,kettle1 #aac4 ,keeping1 #aab4 ,pudding1 #abc4 ,and oysters1 #bca4 ,sauces for1 #bge4 ,sandwiches1 #cff4 ,scalloped1 #abj4 au gratin1 #aba4 ,stock and soup1 #ajc4 ,to saute1 #aag4 ,timbale1 #abc4 ,trimming1 #aab4 ,five o'clock tea1 #cc4 ,flageolets1 #baj4 ,flaming apples1 #dcb4 ,flavoring1 #fj1 #hj4 ,when to add1 #chi4 ,flavors1 #chi4 ,floating ,island1 #cie4 ,flounder1 rolled fillets of1 #abe4 ,flowers for garnishing1 #cic4 ,floor polish1 #bfj4 ,foamy sauce1 #dde4 ,fondant1 #eac4 ,to make1 #ead4 ,bonbons of1 #ebb4 ,icing1 #dhe4 ,fondue1 #cce4 ,fontage cups1 #cjj4 ,forcemeat1 chicken1 cream1 #big4 ,no4 #b1 #big4 ,fish1 cream1 #big4 ,quenelle1 #bih4 ,balls1 #ib4 ,for boned fowls1 #ahc4 ,fowls1 to bone1 #aha4 ,to truss1 #ahc4 ,french dressing for salads1 #cge4 ,omelet1 #bfd4 ,fricasseeing1 #ga4 ,fricassee of chicken1 #ahf4 ,oysters1 #bcb4 ,fried bananas1 #eca4 ,cream1 #dda4 ,corn-meal mush1 #bbd4 ,hominy1 #bbd4 ,fried oysters1 #acb4 ,fritters1 #dbf4 ,apple1 #dbg4 ,batter1 #dbf4 ,biscuit dough1 #dbh4 ,bread1 #cdi4 ,chicken1 #ahg4 ,orange1 #dbg4 ,peach or apricot1 #dbg4 ,frogs' legs1 fried1 #cac4 a la poulette1 #cac4 ,frosting1 instantaneous1 #bde4 ,frozen desserts1 #dhh4 ,remarks about1 #dhh4 ,fruits1 #eja1 #ecb4 ,punches1 #ejh4 ,fruit cake1 plain1 #dgb4 ,rich1 #dgc4 ,fruits1 #ebi4 ,remarks about1 #ebi4 ,bavarian1 #dja4 ,frozen1 #eja1 #ecb4 ,ice-creams1 #eja4 ,jellied1 #ecd4 ,juices1 #ecd4 ,to thicken1 #chi4 ,pudding1 #ddc1 #ejb4 ,salpicon of1 #ecb4 punch1 #ecc4 ,sauces1 #ddf4 ,syrups1 #eeg4 ,frying1 #gb4 ,to prepare articles for1 #ge4 ,g ,galantine of turkey1 #aic4 ,garnishing1 #cib4 ,boiled fish1 #aad4 ,cakes1 #dhf4 ,with flowers1 #cic4 ,garnishes for soups1 #ib4 ,gateau ,st4 ,honore1 #djg4 ,gauffres1 #dgi4 ,gelatine1 #fj1 #chh4 ,gems1 corn1 #ced4 ,graham1 #bcg1 #ced4 ,genoese cake1 #dfg4 ,giblet sauce1 #ahe4 ,gingerbread1 soft1 #dhc4 ,ginger snaps1 #dha4 ,glace oranges and grapes1 #eaf4 ,glaze1 #bgg4 ,gluten bread1 #cdg4 ,gold and silver cake1 #dgj4 ,golden buck1 #cgb4 ,cream toast1 #bgj4 ,goose1 roast1 #aid4 ,graham bread1 #cdf4 ,gems1 #bcg1 #ced4 ,grape fruit1 #ecj4 ,grapes glace1 #eaf4 ,juice1 #eeg4 ,preserved1 #eci4 ,spiced1 #edd4 ,grease1 removing from soups1 #hf4 ,saving1 #ea4 ,green peas1 #bji4 ,cream of1 #ajf4 ,timbale of1 for soups1 #id4 ,grilled bones1 #ahh4 ,grouse1 roasted1 #aig4 ,gumbo file1 #bdh4 ,h ,halibut steaks1 boiled1 #aai4 ,turkish style1 #abj4 ,timbale1 #cjc4 ,ham boiled1 #agg4 ,baked1 #agg4 ,and eggs1 broiled1 #agh4 a l',aurore1 #agh4 ,canapes1 #cfh4 ,omelet1 #bff4 ,hamburg steaks1 #aea4 ,hard sauce1 #ddh4 ,harlequin balls1 #ebb4 ,slices for soups1 #id4 ,hartford election cake1 #bdd4 ,hash1 corned beef1 #aeh4 ,brown1 #aei4 ,heart1 calf's1 #agd4 ,hoe cake1 #bdf4 ,no4 #b1 #bdg4 ,colonial1 #bcg4 ,hollandaise sauce1 #bha4 ,home dinner1 #bg4 ,homily on cooking1 #ce4 ,hominy cake1 #cef4 ,fried1 #bbd4 ,horseradish sauce1 #bhd4 ,hot slaw1 #bad4 ,i ,ices1 #ejh4 ,lemon1 #bdc1 #ejh4 ,orange1 #ejh4 ,strawberry1 #ejh4 ,ice-creams1 #dhh4 ,american1 #die4 ,angel1 #dig4 ,caramel1 #dif1 #dig4 ,coffee1 #dig4 ,chocolate1 #dif4 ,classification of1 #dhh4 ,fancy molding of1 #dia4 ,freezing1 #dij4 ,french1 #die4 ,fruit1 #eja4 ,general rules for making1 #dhi4 ,imperatrice1 #eje4 ,individual1 #dib1 #dic4 ,molding1 #dia4 ,neapolitan1 #dih4 ,nesselrode1 #dii4 ,nut1 #ejb4 ,ornamental1 #dic4 ,packing1 #dij4 ,philadelphia1 #did4 ,pistachio1 #dih4 ,plum pudding glace1 #ejj4 ,rice1 #dih4 ,tutti frutti1 #eja4 ,vanilla1 #did4 ,iced tea1 #eej4 ,icing1 boiled1 #dhd4 ,chocolate1 #dhd1 #dhe4 ,coffee for eclairs1 #dhe4 ,fondant1 #dhe4 ,royal1 #dhc4 with confectioners' sugar1 #dhd4 ,for small cakes1 #dhe4 ,and decorating cakes1 #dhc4 ,indian bread1 #bcf4 ,pudding1 #bdj1 #bda1 #ddc4 ,individual salads1 #chc4 ,inside flank of beef1 #aec4 ,irish stew1 #afe4 ,italian cream1 #dja4 ,jelly1 #dah4 ,meringue1 #dih4 ,j ,jams1 #eda4 ,jam omelet1 #dbe4 ,jellied chicken1 #ahb4 ,fruit1 #ecd4 ,fruits 7,pain aux fruits71 #dai4 ,tongue1 #age4 ,veal1 #aga4 ,jellies1 #dab1 #edc4 ,jelly rolls1 #dfh4 ,jelly1 to clarify1 #dac4 ,apple1 #edd4 ,aspic1 #cba4 ,berry design for mold1 #cbf4 ,coffee1 #daf4 ,cold1 sauce1 #ddi4 ,crab-apple1 #edd4 ,cranberry1 #bdd4 ,champagne1 #daf4 with flowers1 #daf4 ,currant1 #edc4 ,daisy design for mold1 #cbf4 ,dantzic1 #dah4 ,decorations for meat1 #cbf4 ,dissolving1 #dab4 ,italian1 #dah4 ,lemon1 #dae4 ,macedoine1 #dag4 ,molding fancy1 #cbd1 #dac4 ,orange1 #dae4 ,points to observe in making1 #dab4 ,plum pudding1 #cii4 ,proportions for1 #dac4 ,prune1 #bdc4 ,quince1 #edd4 ,ribbon1 #dah4 ,rolls1 #dfh4 ,russian1 #dag4 ,sauce1 #ddi1 #bhg4 ,serving1 #dad4 ,wine1 #dae4 ,with fruits 7macedoine71 #dag4 ,what to do with left over1 #dah4 ,whipped1 #dag4 ,white or blanc-mange1 #cii4 ,unmolding1 #cbd4 ,johnny cake1 #bcg4 ,julienne soup1 #hi4 ,jumbles1 #dhj4 ,k ,kidneys1 stewed1 #agc4 ,kisses1 #dge4 ,kneading bread1 #cdb4 ,koumiss1 #eeh4 ,l ,lady fingers1 #dgf4 ,lalla ,rookh1 #eji4 ,lamb1 spring1 #afg4 ,larding1 #gf4 ,layer cakes1 #dfh4 ,lemonade1 #eed4 ,lemon ice1 #bdc1 #ejh4 ,jelly1 #dae4 ,sugar1 #cia4 ,syrup1 #cia4 ,lettuce salad1 #cgf4 ,stewed1 #bai4 ,lima beans1 #baj4 ,little pound cakes1 #dgh4 ,liver and bacon1 #agb4 ,braised1 #agb4 ,broiled1 #agb4 ,loaf or false pate de foie gras1 #cjh4 ,saute1 #bee4 ,livers1 chicken1 #cji1 #ccc4 ,loaf of chicken1 #aia4 ,liver1 #cjh4 ,veal1 #aga4 ,lobster1 #acf4 ,to bake1 #acg4 ,to boil1 #acf4 ,to broil1 #acg4 ,to kill1 #acf4 ,to open1 #acg4 a la ,newburg1 #aci4 ,bisque of1 #aji4 ,butter1 #aji4 ,chops1 #ach4 ,farci1 #ach4 ,filling for patties1 #adj4 ,freshness of1 #acf4 ,salad1 #chb4 ,salpicon of1 #adj4 ,sauce1 #bgi4 ,season of1 #acf4 ,stew1 #adj4 ,stewed1 #bcb4 ,luncheon1 #ca4 ,luncheon and tea-rolls1 #cea4 ,m ,macaroni1 #bbd4 a la ,albi1 #bcf4 au gratin1 #bbe4 ,baked with cheese1 #bbe4 ,mrs4 ,maspero1 #bbf4 ,with tomato or other sauce1 #bbe4 ,with minced meat1 #bbf4 ,timbale1 #cjb4 ,honeycomb1 #cjb4 ,sauce for1 #bbf4 ,no4 #b1 #bbf4 ,no4 #c1 #bbg4 ,soup1 #hi4 ,macaroons1 #dgg4 ,macedoine jelly1 #dag4 ,salad1 #cgh4 ,of vegetables1 #baf4 ,mackerel1 salt1 #abg4 ,creamed1 #abg4 ,madeleines1 ,no4 #a1 #dgg4 ,no4 #b1 #dgh4 ,maitre d'hotel sauce1 #bhf4 ,marble cake1 #dgj4 ,marinate1 to1 #gi1 #cgd4 ,marmalade1 #eda4 ,apple1 #edc4 ,orange1 #edb4 ,quince1 #edb4 ,marrow balls1 #id4 ,bones1 #aei4 ,marrons1 pain de1 #dbj4 ,glace1 #eba4 ,marshmallows1 #eba4 ,mayonnaise1 #bhh1 #cge4 ,arrowroot1 #bij4 ,green1 #bhi4 ,jelly1 #bij4 ,red1 #bij4 ,white1 #bhi4 ,of chicken1 #aib4 ,measuring1 #gg4 ,meats1 #eb1 #ade4 ,cooking1 #ade4 ,cleaning1 #ade4 ,general remarks about1 #ade4 ,juices of1 #ade4 ,piercing1 #adf4 ,scalloped1 #aea4 ,sandwiches1 #cfd4 ,seasoning1 #ade4 ,menus1 luncheon1 #ca4 ,inexpensive dinners1 #dg1 #bdi4 ,meringues1 #dge4 ,meringue sauce1 #ddh4 ,to sweeten1 #chi4 ,mignon fillets1 #aeg4 ,milk1 #ed1 #eh1 #chi4 ,bread1 #cde4 ,when scalded1 #chi4 ,punch1 #eeg4 ,toast1 #cdh4 ,shake1 #eeg4 ,sterilized1 #beg4 ,millefeuilles1 #dfa4 ,mince pie1 #ded4 ,mint sauce1 #bhg4 ,miscellaneous receipts1 #beg4 ,mixing liquids and solids1 #ei4 ,mock oysters1 #bbj4 ,mock turtle soup1 #ajc4 ,molasses cake1 #dhc4 ,candy1 #ebg4 ,pie1 #bdb4 ,wafers1 #dhb4 ,molding1 #chi4 ,articles to fry1 #gf4 ,fancy1 #dac4 ,jellies1 #cbc4 ,ice-creams1 #dia4 ,molds1 #fj4 ,double1 #cbe4 ,to ornament1 #cbd4 ,moselle cup1 #eee4 ,mousses1 #ejf4 ,fruit1 #ejg4 ,golden1 #ejg4 ,muffins1 #cee4 ,english1 #cee4 ,raised1 #cee4 ,mushrooms1 remarks about1 #de1 #cad4 ,cooking1 #caf4 a la poulette1 #cbj4 ,agaricus campestris1 #cag4 procerus1 #cah4 russula1 #cah4 ,boleti1 #cah4 ,coprinus comatus1 #cah4 atramentarius1 #cah4 ,clavaria1 #cai4 ,hydnum caput ,medusae1 #cai4 ,puff balls1 #cai4 ,marasmius oreades1 #cag4 ,scalloped1 #cbj4 ,sauce1 #bhf4 ,to dry1 #cbj4 ,mustard sauce1 #bhd4 ,mutton1 remarks about1 #afj4 ,boiled1 #afc4 ,breast of1 #bee4 ,broth1 #ie4 ,chops1 #afe4 in paper cases1 #aff4 a la ,maintenon1 #afg4 ,leg of1 #afb4 ,loin of1 #afb4 ,ragout of1 #afd4 cold boiled1 #afe4 ,rechauffe of1 #bcd4 ,rolled loin of1 #afb4 ,saddle of1 #afb4 ,shoulder of1 stuffed1 #afc4 ,n ,nasturtium pickle1 #edg4 ,neapolitan ice-cream1 #dih4 ,squares1 #ebc4 ,nesselrode pudding1 #dii4 ,noodles1 #ic4 ,balls1 #ic4 ,to serve as vegetables1 #ic4 ,soup1 #hi4 ,nougat1 #eah4 ,for bonbons1 #eah4 molding1 #eai4 ,soft white1 #eai4 ,nuts1 #ecb4 ,carameled1 #ebf4 ,creams1 #ebc4 ,ice-creams1 #ejb4 ,salted1 #ecc4 ,o ,oat cake1 #cef4 ,oatmeal1 creamed1 #bch4 ,porridge1 #bbg4 ,olives1 to stone1 #gh4 ,olive sauce1 #bhe4 ,omelets1 #bfd4 aux fins herbes1 #bff4 ,beaten1 #bff4 ,green1 #bff4 ,ham1 #bff4 ,jam1 #dbe4 ,orange1 #dbe4 ,plain ,french1 #bfd4 ,potato1 #bjc4 ,with peas and tomatoes1 #bff4 ,rum1 #dbf4 ,variations of1 #bfe4 ,souffle1 #dbb4 ,spanish1 #bgd4 ,onions1 #bai4 ,juice1 #ei4 how to extract1 #gh4 ,soup1 #aje4 ,spanish1 stuffed1 #bai4 ,orangeade1 #eed4 ,oranges1 #ecj4 ,glace1 #eaf4 ,cake1 #dfi4 ,compote of1 #ecf4 ,fritters1 #dbg4 ,ice1 #ejh4 ,indian pudding1 #bda4 ,jelly1 #dae4 ,juice1 #ecd4 ,marmalade1 #eda4 ,omelet1 #dbe4 ,or lemon peel candied1 #cia1 #ebg4 ,pie1 #dec4 ,salad1 #chb4 ,sugar1 #cia4 ,syrup1 #cia4 pain d'1 #dbj4 ,oysters1 #aca4 a la poulette1 #acc4 ,villeroi1 #acb4 ,broiled1 #acb4 ,browned1 #bca4 ,cooking1 #aca4 in chafing-dish1 #bcc4 ,crabs1 #adc1 #caj4 entree of1 #caj4 ,cases1 #cjh4 ,creamed1 #cca4 ,cream of1 #ajh4 ,filling for patties1 #acd4 ,and fish1 #bca4 ,fried1 #acb4 ,fricassee1 #bcb4 ,mock1 #bbj4 ,panned1 #acc1 #cca4 ,pickled1 #bcb4 ,raw1 #aca4 ,roasted1 #acc4 ,salad1 #chc4 ,sauce1 #bgi4 ,soup1 #ajd4 ,scalloped1 #acd1 #bca4 ,stew1 #cca4 ,ox-tail soup1 #ii4 ,ovens1 #fc4 ,p ,panada1 bread1 #bih4 ,flour1 #bih4 ,pancakes1 remarks about1 #cfa4 ,adirondack1 #cfc4 ,bread1 #cfb4 ,buckwheat1 #cfc4 ,cornmeal1 #cfc4 ,plain1 #cfb4 ,rice1 #cfb4 ,sweet1 #dbf4 ,pans1 bread1 #cdd4 ,cake1 #dfc1 #dfd4 ,panned oysters1 #acc1 #cca4 ,pain aux fruits1 #dai4 de fraises1 #dai4 d'oranges1 #dbj4 de peches1 #dbj4 de marrons1 #dbj4 de riz aux fruits1 #dai4 a la princesse1 #dai4 de volaille1 #cjj4 ,parched rice1 #bbc4 ,parfaits1 #dhi4 ,general rules for making1 #ejb4 ,angel1 #eje4 au cafe and praline1 #ejd4 ,of chestnuts1 #ejf4 ,maple1 #ejd4 ,vanilla1 #ejc4 ,parker ,house rolls1 #cea4 ,parsnips1 #bah4 ,partridges1 roasted1 broiled1 #aii4 ,pastry1 #dea4 ,plain1 #bci1 #dea4 ,for tarts1 #deb4 ,to glaze1 #dfa4 ,timbale1 #cjc4 ,pate de foie gras en bellevue1 #chd4 ,pate shells1 #dfj4 ,patties1 #cje4 ,pea soup1 #ajb1 #bbi4 ,peaches1 #ecj4 ,compote of1 #ecf4 ,peach-leaf flavor1 #cia4 ,fritters1 #dbg4 ,frozen1 #eja1 #ecb4 ,pickled1 sweet1 #ede4 ,preserved1 #ecg4 ,pudding1 #bda4 ,peanut candy1 #ebg4 ,peanuts1 #ecb4 ,pears1 stewed1 #bdd4 ,preserved1 #ech4 ,peppermint creams1 #ebe4 ,drops1 #ebf4 ,peppers1 stuffed1 #bae4 ,philadelphia ice-cream1 #did4 ,pickled oysters1 #bcb4 ,pickles1 #ede4 ,chow-chow1 #edf4 ,cucumber or gherkins1 #ede4 ,green tomato1 #edf4 ,nasturtiums1 #edg4 ,peaches1 #ede4 ,plums1 #ede4 ,walnuts1 #ede4 ,pies1 #dej4 ,apple1 #ded4 ,beef1 #aeb4 ,beefsteak1 #bce4 ,chicken1 #aib4 ,cocoanut1 #def4 ,cranberry1 #def4 ,cream1 #dee4 ,mince mixture1 #ded4 ,molasses1 #bdb4 ,orange1 #dec4 ,plain apple1 #ded4 pastry for1 #bci1 #dea4 ,pumpkin1 #bci1 #ded4 ,squash1 #bch4 ,tart1 #deb4 ,washington1 #deg4 ,pigeons1 potted1 #aig4 ,roasted1 #aig4 ,pineapple canapes1 #ccf4 ,sauce1 #ddg4 ,pine cones1 #daa4 ,piquante sauce1 #bhc4 ,pistachio cake1 #dfi4 ,flavor1 #cia4 ,ice-cream1 #dih4 ,plain pudding sauces1 #ddd1 #dde4 ,plum-pudding1 #dcg4 ,jelly1 #cii4 ,glace1 #ejj4 ,sauce for1 #eja4 ,plum sauce for meats1 #ddd4 ,polenta1 #bbg4 ,pone1 #bdf4 ,pork1 #agf4 ,and beans1 #bag1 #bcd4 ,chops1 #agg4 ,roast1 #agf4 ,pot-pie1 #afi4 ,potatoes1 baked1 #bjd4 ,baked with meat1 #bjd4 ,balls1 #bjc4 fried1 #bje4 ,boiled1 #bja4 ,bread1 #cde4 ,broiled1 #bjd4 ,cakes1 #bja4 ,casserole1 #cbg4 ,chowder1 #aaj4 ,creamed1 #bjc4 ,croquettes1 #bjb4 ,and fish timbale1 #cjd4 ,fried1 #bje4 ,lyonnaise1 #bjd4 ,mashed1 #bja4 ,omelet1 #bjc4 ,puffed1 #bjf4 ,rice1 #bjb4 ,roses1 #bjb4 ,salad1 #cgh4 ,saratoga1 #bje4 ,souffle1 #bjb4 ,soup1 #aje4 ,straws1 #bje4 ,stuffed1 #bjd4 ,supports for hot meats1 #cbh4 ,sweet1 #bjf4 baked1 #bjf4 browned1 #bjf4 ,croquettes1 #bjg4 ,puree of1 #bjg4 ,poulette sauce1 #bhj4 ,poultry and game1 #agi4 ,to clean and draw1 #ahj4 ,pound cake1 #dga4 ,pound cakes1 small1 #dgh4 ,prairie chicken and grouse1 #aig4 ,praline powder1 #eje4 ,preserved citron1 #edj4 ,grapes1 #eci4 ,peaches1 #ecg4 brandied1 #edc4 ,pears1 #ech4 ,plums1 #ech4 ,raspberries1 #edj4 ,strawberries1 #eci4 ,no4 #b1 #edj4 ,preserving1 #ecg4 ,printaniere soup1 #hi4 ,prune jelly1 #bdc4 ,souffle1 #dbc4 ,pudding batter1 #dbh4 ,beefsteak1 #bea4 ,bermuda1 #bdb4 ,blueberry1 #bda4 ,bread1 #dcd4 and butter1 #dcd4 ,brown ,betty1 #dbi4 ,cabinet1 #dch4 ,no4 #b1 #dci4 ,no4 #c 7,royal71 #dci4 ,no4 #d1 #ddj4 ,canary1 #dcf4 ,chocolate1 #cih4 ,cherry bread1 #bda4 ,cocoanut1 #cih4 ,cottage1 #dce4 ,cornstarch1 #cig4 ,diplomatic1 #djc4 ,fig1 #dch4 ,fish1 #abc4 ,fruit1 #ddc4 ,indian1 #bdj1 #bda1 #ddc4 ,peach1 #bda4 ,plum1 #dcg4 glace1 #eij4 ,rice1 plain1 #dcc4 and marmalade1 #bdb4 ,roly-poly1 #ddc4 ,snow apple1 #dbi4 ,suet1 #dcf4 ,tapioca1 #dcc4 ,yorkshire1 #adg4 ,puffs or pop-overs1 #ced4 ,puff-paste1 #deg4 ,rules for1 #deg4 ,receipt for1 #deh4 ,pulled bread1 #cdi4 ,pumpkin pie1 #bci1 #ded4 ,punch1 frozen1 general rules1 for1 #ejh4 ,coffee1 #eji4 ,milk1 #eeg4 ,salpicon of fruit1 #ecc4 of ,california cherries1 #ecd4 ,puree of beans1 #bag4 ,chestnuts1 #ahe1 #bae4 ,chicken1 #caj4 ,fruit sauce1 #ddg4 ,q ,quails broiled1 #aib4 ,roasted1 #aih4 ,quenelles1 #cjj4 ,forcemeat1 #bih4 ,quick aspic1 #cbb4 ,quinces1 baked1 #ecb4 ,jelly1 #edd4 ,marmalade1 #edb4 ,r ,ragout of beef1 #aec4 ,of mutton1 #afd4 ,raisins1 #fj1 #chi4 ,range1 #fc4 ,raspberry vinegar1 #eeh4 ,preserve1 #edj4 ,raw beef sandwiches1 #cfg4 ,oysters1 #aca4 ,rechauffe of mutton1 #bcd4 ,redhead ducks1 #aif4 ,refrigerator1 #fb4 ,rennet custard1 #cig4 ,rhode ,island ,johnny cake1 #bcg4 ,ribbon jelly1 #dah4 ,rice1 to boil1 #bbb4 ,southern way of boiling1 #bdh4 ,bavarian1 #djb4 ,ice-cream1 #dih4 ,pancakes1 #cfb4 ,parched1 #bbc4 ,pudding ,no4 #a1 #dcc4 ,no4 #b1 #dcc4 ,lemon rice-pudding1 #bdb4 ,and marmalade pudding1 #bdb4 ,and raisins1 #dcd4 ,pudding glace1 #eje4 ,and tomatoes1 #bbc4 ,rich pudding sauce1 #dde4 ,richelieu sauce1 #ddh4 ,rissotto1 #bbg4 ,rissoles1 #cje4 ,roast beef1 #adf4 ,cold1 #aea4 ,roasted oysters1 #acc4 ,roasting1 #gj4 ,rolled loin of mutton1 #afb4 ,rolls1 baking1 #cdd4 ,bread1 #cdi4 ,cleft1 #cea4 ,luncheon and tea1 #cea4 ,parker ,house1 #cea4 ,roly-poly pudding1 #ddc4 ,rose sugar1 #cia4 ,roux1 to make1 #gi4 ,royal icing1 #dhc4 ,royale1 #ib4 ,rum omelet1 #dbf4 ,sauce1 #dde4 ,rusks1 #ceg4 ,dried1 #ceh4 ,russian jellies1 #dag4 ,salad1 #chc4 ,bowls1 #cbi4 ,s ,sabayon sauces1 #ddf4 ,saddle of mutton1 #afb4 ,salads1 general remarks about1 #cgc4 ,aspic of pate en bellevue1 #chd4 with walnuts1 #chd4 ,bean1 #cgg4 ,bird's nest1 #che4 ,bouilli1 #chc4 ,cauliflower1 #cgg4 ,celery1 #cgf4 and walnut1 #cha4 ,chicken1 #bce1 #chb4 ,cold slaw1 #cgh4 ,cucumber1 #cgg4 and tomato1 #cgg4 ,egg1 ,no4 #a1 #cha4 ,no4 #b1 #cha4 ,french dressing for1 #cge4 ,hot slaw1 #cgi4 ,lettuce1 #cgf4 ,lobster1 #chb4 ,macedoine1 #cgh4 ,mayonnaise dressing for1 #bhh1 #bij1 #cge4 ,to marinate1 #cgd4 ,orange1 #chb4 ,oyster1 #chc4 ,potato1 #cgh4 ,russian1 #chc4 ,individual1 #chc4 ,sandwiches1 #cff4 ,string bean1 #cgg4 ,sweetbreads with celery1 #cha4 ,tomato ,no4 #a1 #cgi4 and egg1 #chj4 jelly1 #chj4 molded1 #chj4 ,tomato stuffed1 #chj4 ,water cress and apples1 #cgf4 ,sally lunn1 #cee4 ,salmi of duck or game1 #aif4 ,salmon1 #abh4 ,broiled slices of1 #abi4 ,canned1 #abi4 ,cutlets1 #abi4 ,fillets for green luncheon1 #acj4 ,slices with mayonnaise1 #abi4 ,salpicon1 #hj1 #bii4 ,of fruits1 #ecb4 ,punch1 #ecc4 ,lobster1 #adj4 ,salt codfish1 #abg4 ,mackerel1 #abg4 ,salted nuts1 #ecc4 ,sandwiches1 remarks about1 #cfd4 ,shapes of1 #cfd4 ,how to prepare meat for1 #cfd4 ,how to prepare bread for1 #cfe4 ,butter1 #cc4 ,cheese1 #cfg4 ,egg1 #cff4 ,fish1 #cff4 ,meat1 #cfe4 ,raw beef1 #cfg4 ,rolls1 #cfe4 ,salad1 #cff4 ,spanish1 #cfg4 ,sweet1 #cfg4 ,sardine canapes1 #cfh4 ,sardines1 broiled1 #abh4 ,sauces for meats1 #bge4 ,sauces for sweet puddings1 #ddd4 ,sauces for cold sweet desserts1 #cic4 ,sauces for macaroni1 rissotto1 #bbf4 ,sauces for boiled fish1 kinds of1 #aad4 ,sauces1 #cge4 ,general directions for1 #bge4 ,agra dolce1 #bia4 ,allemande1 #bgi4 ,apple1 #bhh4 ,bearnaise1 #bhh4 ,bechamel1 #bgi4 ,beurre ,noir or ,brown ,butter1 #bia4 ,bread1 #bhg4 ,brown1 #bhb4 ,caper1 #bgi4 ,celery1 #bgi4 ,champagne1 #bhc4 ,chaudfroid1 #bha4 ,cranberry1 #bhg4 ,curry1 #bhd4 ,egg1 #bgh4 ,espagnole1 #bhb4 ,for mixing croquettes1 #bic4 macaroni1 #bbc1 #bbf4 ,giblet1 #ahe4 ,glaze1 #bgg4 ,hollandaise1 #bha4 ,horseradish1 #bhd4 ,jelly1 #bhg4 ,lobster1 #bgi4 maitre d'hotel1 #bhf4 ,mayonnaise1 #bhh4 with arrowroot1 #bij4 green1 #bhi4 jelly1 #bij4 red1 #bij4 white1 #bhi4 ,mint1 #bhg4 ,mushroom1 #bhf4 ,mustard1 #bhd4 ,olive1 #bhe4 ,oyster1 #bgi4 ,piquante1 #bhc4 ,poulette1 #bhj4 ,pudding sauces1 sweet1 #ddd4 ,roux for1 #bgg4 ,soubise1 #bhd4 ,tartare1 #bij4 ,tomato1 #bhe4 ,veloute1 #bgi4 ,villeroi1 #bhj4 ,white1 #bgg4 for fish1 #bgh4 ,sauce1 apricot1 #ddf4 ,bischoff1 #ddg4 ,brandy1 rum1 kirsch1 #dde4 ,cocoanut1 #ddi4 ,cold jelly1 #ddi4 ,chocolate1 #ddg4 ,custard1 #ddg4 ,foamy1 #dde4 ,fruit1 #ddf4 puree of1 #ddg4 ,hard1 #ddh4 ,meringue1 #ddh4 ,pineapple1 #ddg4 ,plain pudding1 ,no4 #a 7hot71 #ddd4 ,plain pudding1 ,no4 #b 7cold71 #dde4 ,rich pudding1 #dde4 ,richelieu1 #ddh4 ,sabayon1 ,no4 #a1 #ddf4 ,no4 #b1 #ddf4 ,strawberry1 #ddi4 ,syrup1 #ddf4 ,for plum pudding glace1 #eja4 ,saratoga potatoes1 #bje4 ,sauteing1 #gb4 ,savarins1 #ddj4 ,scalloped fish1 #abj4 ,meat1 #aea4 ,mushrooms1 #cbj4 ,oysters1 #bca4 ,tomatoes1 #bjg4 ,veal1 #agb4 ,scallops1 #acf4 ,scotch broth1 #beb4 ,scrambled eggs1 #bfd4 ,seasoning1 #hj4 ,meats1 #ade4 ,serving boiled fish1 #aad4 ,dinners1 #aj4 the informal1 #bi4 ,jellies1 #dad4 ,wines1 #efj4 ,shad1 #abe4 ,planked1 #abe4 ,spiced1 #bcc4 ,roe1 broiled1 #abf4 croquettes1 ,no4 #a1 #abf4 ,no4 #b1 #abf4 ,shell fish1 #aca4 ,sherbets1 #ejh4 ,general remarks about1 #ejh4 ,shirred eggs1 #bff4 ,shin of beef1 #bej4 ,shortcake1 currant1 #ddb4 ,strawberry1 #ddc4 ,shrimps1 croustade of1 #acj4 ,smelts a la ,toulouse1 #ccd4 ,broiled1 #aah4 ,to fry1 #aag4 ,fried on skewers1 #aah4 ,snipe1 #aih4 ,snow apple pudding1 #dbi4 ,snow pudding1 #dag4 ,soap1 to make1 #bei4 ,socles1 #cbf4 ,of rice1 #cbg4 ,soubise sauce1 #bhd4 ,souffles1 #dba4 ,apple1 #dbd4 ,cheese1 #cgj4 ,chicken1 #aij4 ,chocolate1 #dbc4 ,omelet1 #dbb4 ,potato1 #bjb4 ,prune1 #dbc4 ,spinach1 #baa4 ,vanilla1 #dbb4 ,soup1 general directions for1 #hd4 ,meats1 #he4 ,vegetables1 #he4 ,inexpensive1 #bee4 ,garnishes for ,soup1 #ij1 #ib4 ,forcemeat balls1 #ib4 ,egg balls1 #ib4 ,green pea timbale1 #id4 ,harlequin slices1 #id4 ,marrow balls1 #id4 ,noodles1 #ic4 balls1 #ic4 ,sweet potato balls1 #id4 ,soup1 bean1 #ajb4 ,black bean1 #ajb1 #bbi4 ,bouillon1 #ig4 ,calf's head or mock turtle1 #ajc4 ,chicken1 #ajj4 consomme1 #ajj4 ,clam1 #ajd1 #bcj4 ,croute au pot1 #ij4 ,fish stock and1 #ajc4 ,julienne1 #hi4 ,lobster bisque1 #aji4 butter for1 #aji4 ,macaroni1 #hi4 ,noodle1 #hi4 ,onion1 #aje4 ,oyster1 #ajd4 ,ox-tail1 #ii4 ,pea1 #ajb1 #bbi4 ,potato1 #aje4 ,tapioca1 #ij4 ,tomato bisque1 #ajf4 puree1 #aja4 ,vegetable1 #hi4 or printaniere1 #hi4 ,vermicelli1 #hi4 ,white1 #ii4 ,broths1 #ie4 ,clam1 #ie4 ,chicken1 #ie4 ,mutton1 #ie4 ,made quickly for invalids1 #if4 ,chowders1 #aaj4 ,potato1 #aaj4 ,clam1 #aaa1 #bcj4 ,fish1 #aaj1 #bcj4 ,soups1 cream1 #aje4 asparagus1 #ajf4 celery1 #ajf4 clams1 #ajg4 corn1 #ajf4 green peas1 #ajf4 oysters1 #ajh4 spinach1 #ajf4 string beans1 #ajf4 a la reine1 #ajh4 ,southern dishes1 #bdf4 ,spaghetti1 #bbe4 ,spanish omelet1 #bgd4 ,spanish ,sandwiches1 #cfg4 ,spiced ,grapes1 #edd4 ,spinach1 #baj4 ,chartreuse of1 #baa4 ,souffle1 #baa4 ,sponge1 to make bread1 #cdb4 ,sponge cake1 ,nos4 #a1 #b1 #c1 #dff4 white1 #dfg4 mixing1 #dfe4 ,spring lamb1 #afg4 ,squabs1 #aig4 ,squash1 #bah4 ,pie1 #bch4 ,starch molds for candies1 #ebe4 ,steaks1 ,hamburg1 #aea4 ,stew1 ,irish1 #afe4 ,stewed figs1 #eca4 pears1 #bdd4 kidneys1 #agc4 lobster1 #bcb4 oysters1 #cca4 ,sterilized ,milk1 #beg4 ,sticks1 bread1 #ceg4 cheese1 #cfi4 ,stock1 soup1 #hd4 brown1 #hh4 white1 #ii4 ,strawberries1 #ecj4 ,strawberry ,cake1 #ddc4 ,charlotte1 #djf4 ,shortcake1 #ddb4 ,preserved1 #eci1 #edj4 ,supreme of1 #dai4 ,sauce1 #ddi4 ,ice1 #ejh4 ,ice-cream1 #eja4 ,stirring1 #gh4 ,store-closet1 #ee1 #cid4 ,strainers1 #fj4 ,string beans1 #bji4 salad1 #cgg4 ,stuffing for baked fish1 #aaf4 ,boned fowls1 #ahc4 fowls1 #ahd4 chestnut1 #ahe4 ,stuffed chicken legs1 #ahh4 ,cucumbers1 #bah4 ,eggs1 #bga1 #bgb4 ,egg-plant1 #bae4 ,mushrooms1 #cji4 ,peppers1 #bae4 ,potatoes1 #bjd4 ,shoulder of mutton1 #afc4 veal1 #afh4 ,spanish onions1 #bai4 ,tomatoes1 #bjg4 ,succotash1 #bbj4 ,suet1 to try out1 #gd4 ,chopping1 #ei4 ,pudding1 #dcf4 ,sugar and its uses1 #eaj4 ,boiling1 #eaj4 degrees of1 #eab4 ,colored for garnishing1 #cic4 how to make1 #cic4 ,creams1 #ebd4 ,spun1 #eae4 directions for making1 #eae4 ,syrup1 #ejc4 ,syrups1 #eac4 ,sugared ,almonds1 #ebj4 ,sunshine ,cake1 #dfg4 ,supply closet1 #fb4 ,supports for hot meats1 #cbh4 ,sweetbreads1 to prepare1 #cje4 a la poulette1 #cjf4 ,baked1 #cjf4 ,braised1 #cjf4 ,chaudfroid of1 #cjf4 ,fried1 #cjf4 ,salad1 #cha4 ,sauted1 #cjf4 ,sweet pancakes1 #dbf4 ,sweet potatoes1 baked1 #bjf4 balls for soup1 #id4 boiled1 #bjf4 browned1 #bjf4 croquettes1 #bjg4 ,puree of1 #bjg4 ,sweet sandwiches1 #cfg4 ,swedish cabbage1 #bac4 ,syrups1 fruit1 #eeg4 sauce1 #ddf4 sugar1 #ejc1 #eac4 ,t ,table1 laying the1 #ac4 ,time1 inside of cover4 ,weights and measures1 #chg4 ,taffy1 #ebg4 ,tapioca1 ,soup1 #ij4 and apples1 #beb4 ,pudding1 #dcc4 ,tartare sauce1 #bij4 ,tart bands1 #dfj4 bread1 #dce4 ,pies1 #deb4 ,tartlets1 #dfa4 ,paganini1 #dfa4 ,tea1 #edi4 ,five o'clock1 #cc4 ,iced1 #eej4 ,biscuits1 #ceb4 with sour milk1 #ceb4 ,terrapin1 #caa4 a la ,newburg1 #cac4 ,general rules about1 #caa4 ,maryland style1 #cac4 ,false1 #cjh4 ,thickening for soup1 #ij4 ,things to remember1 #eh4 ,timbales1 #bif4 ,to mold and cook1 #bih4 ,fish1 #abc4 ,halibut1 #cjc4 ,honeycomb1 #cjb4 ,macaroni1 #cjb4 of brioche1 #cfa4 ,pastry1 #cjc4 ,potato and fish1 #cjd4 ,toast1 #cdh4 milk1 #cdh4 ,tomato bisque1 #ajf4 broiled1 #bjh4 ,farci1 #bjh4 ,jelly1 #chj4 ,puree1 #aja4 ,roasted1 #bjh4 ,salads1 #cgi1 #chj4 ,sauce1 #bhe4 ,scalloped1 #bjg4 ,stewed1 #bjg4 ,stuffed1 #bjg4 with eggs1 #chj4 and rice1 #bbc4 ,tongue1 beef1 #agd4 cold1 #age4 ,hot sliced1 #agd4 ,jellied1 #age4 ,trifle1 #daa4 ,banana1 #dab4 ,tripe1 #agc4 ,truffles1 #bif4 ,to decorate with1 #cbf4 ,turkey1 #aic4 ,boned1 #aic4 ,galantine1 #aic4 ,turnips1 #afj1 #baf4 ,tutti ,frutti1 #eja4 ,u ,uses for stale cake1 #daa4 ,utensils1 care of1 #fa4 ,for desserts1 #chf4 ,v ,vanilla souffle1 #dbb4 ,ice-cream1 #did4 ,sugar1 #cia4 ,veal1 #afh4 ,cutlets1 #afi4 ,fricandeau1 #afi4 ,jellied1 #aga4 ,loaf1 #aga4 ,roast fillet of1 #afh4 ,scallop1 #agb4 ,stuffed shoulder of1 #afh4 ,with white sauce1 #bec4 ,vegetables1 general remarks about1 #bjj4 ,soup1 #aja4 for soup1 #he4 ,macedoine of1 #baf4 ,veloute sauce1 #bgi4 ,venetian cakes1 #dgi4 ,venison1 #aii4 steak1 #aii4 ,vermicelli soup1 #hi4 ,villeroi sauce1 #bhj4 ,vol-au-vent1 #cjd4 ,w ,wafers1 molasses1 #dhb4 ,waffles1 #cef4 ,walnuts1 pickled1 #ede4 ,english1 salted1 #ecc4 ,warren's ,cake1 #dhb4 ,washington ,pie1 #deg4 ,wastefulness1 #ej4 ,water1 #edh4 ,water-cress salad1 #cgf4 ,water-,ices1 #ejh4 ,weights and measures1 #chg4 ,welsh rabbit1 #cga4 ,wheat1 cracked1 #bbh4 ,whole1 bread1 #cdf4 ,whips1 #dji4 ,whipped ,cream1 #djh4 ,jelly1 #dag4 ,whitebait1 #aah4 ,white cake1 #dga4 ,jelly1 #cii4 ,soup1 #ii4 ,stock4 #ii4 ,wines1 serving1 #efj4 ,wine jelly1 #dae4 ,woodcock1 #aih4 ,wooden spoons1 #ccj4 ,y ,yeast1 #cch4 ,remarks about1 #cch4 ,dick ,bennet's1 #cci4 ,receipt ,no4 #b1 #cci4 ,yorkshire ,pudding1 #adg4 ,z ,zephyrs1 #bch4 ,zwieback1 #cdi4 ,,general ,,index ,,part ,i4 ,dinner-giving and the etiquette of dinners1 #a4 ,manner of serving dinners1 #aj4 ,laying the table1 #ac4 ,table decoration1 #ag4 ,courses1 #bd4 ,the home dinner1 #bg4 ,serving the informal dinner1 #bi4 ,luncheon1 #ca4 ,the five o'clock tea1 #cc4 ,a homily on cooking1 #ce4 ,cooking as a pleasure and an accomplishment1 #ch4 ,to train a green cook1 #dj4 ,economical living1 #dd4 ,mushrooms1 #de1 #cad4 ,menus4 ,al ,fresco dinner1 #bc4 ,luncheon1 #ca4 ,economical living1 #dg1 #beb4 ,wastefulness1 #ej4 ,how to utilize what some cooks throw away1 #ea4 ,bread1 #ea4 ,fat1 #ea4 ,bones1 #ea4 ,tough pieces1 #eb4 ,small pieces1 #eb4 ,cold meats1 #eb4 ,eggs1 #eb4 ,general odds and ends1 #ec4 ,cereals1 #ec4 ,vegetables1 #ec4 ,sour milk1 #ed4 ,fruits1 #ed4 ,cheese1 #ed4 ,emergencies1 #ee4 ,things to ,remember4 ,items about ,eggs1 #eh4 ,milk1 #eh4 ,butter1 #eh4 ,crumbs1 #eh4 ,meats1 #ei4 ,drippings1 #ei4 ,onion juice1 #ei4 ,chopping suet1 #ei4 almonds1 #ei4 ,mixing liquids and solids together1 #ei4 ,gelatine1 #fj4 ,molds1 #fj4 ,strainers1 #fj4 ,to keep dishes warm1 #fj4 ,flavoring1 #fj4 ,raisins1 #fj4 ,baking1 #fj4 ,utensils1 care of1 #fa4 cleaning1 #fa4 ,tins1 sieves1 woodenware1 #fb4 ,tins1 arrangement of1 #fb4 ,supply closet1 #fb4 ,refrigerator1 #fb4 ,coal and range1 #fc4 ,ovens1 #fc4 ,,part ,,ii4 ,,chapter ,i4 ,methods of ,cooking ,explained4 ,boiling1 #fg4 ,baking1 #fi4 ,roasting1 #gj4 ,broiling1 #gj4 ,braising1 #ga4 ,fricasseeing1 #ga4 ,sauteing1 #gb4 ,frying1 #gb4 ,to clarify fat1 #gd4 ,to try out suet and other fats1 #gd4 ,to prepare articles for frying by covering them with egg and crumbs1 #ge4 ,the crumbs1 #ge4 ,the egg1 #ge4 ,the molding1 #gf4 ,larding1 #gf4 ,daubing1 #gf4 ,boning1 #gg4 ,measuring1 #gg4 ,stirring and beating1 #gh4 ,how to stone olives1 #gh4 ,how to cut bacon1 #gh4 ,how to extract onion juice1 #gh4 ,caramel1 #gh4 ,to make roux1 #gi4 ,to marinate1 #gi4 ,salpicon1 #hj4 ,seasoning and flavoring1 #hj4 ,croutons and croustades1 #ha4 ,chartreuse1 #hc4 ,,chapter ,,ii4 ,soups4 ,general directions for preparing soups1 including directions for ,brown stock1 #hd1 #hh4 ,white stock1 #hd1 #ii4 ,chicken consomme1 #ajj4 ,cream soups1 #he1 #aje4 ,soup meats1 #he4 vegetables1 #he4 ,the bouquet1 #he4 ,proportions1 #he4 ,the order of preparation1 #he4 ,removing the grease1 #hf4 ,clarifying1 #hf4 ,coloring1 #hg4 ,meat stock1 #hg4 ,common stock 7pot-au-feu71 #hg4 ,beef or brown stock1 #hh4 ,macaroni soup1 #hi4 ,noodle soup1 #hi4 ,vermicelli soup1 #hi4 ,vegetable or printaniere soup1 #hi4 ,julienne soup1 #hi4 ,tapioca soup1 #ij4 ,croute au pot1 #ij4 ,garnishes for soup1 #ij4 ,thickening for soup1 #ij4 ,garnishes for soups1 #ib4 ,royale1 #ib4 ,forcemeat balls1 #ib4 ,egg1 #ib4 ,egg balls1 #ib4 ,noodles1 #ic4 to serve as a vegetable1 #ic4 ,noodle balls1 #ic4 ,marrow balls1 #id4 ,sweet potato balls1 #id4 ,green pea timbale1 #id4 ,harlequin slices1 #id4 ,broths4 ,chicken broth1 #ie4 ,clam broth1 #ie4 ,mutton broth1 #ie4 ,broth made quickly for invalids1 #if4 ,soups4 ,bouillon1 #ig4 ,consomme1 #ih4 ,ox-tail soup1 #ii4 ,white stock1 #ii4 ,white soup1 #ii4 ,chicken consomme1 #ajj4 ,plain chicken soup1 #ajj4 ,vegetable soup1 #aja4 ,tomato puree1 #aja4 ,split-pea or bean soup1 #ajb4 ,black bean soup1 #ajb4 ,calf's head or mock turtle1 #ajc4 ,fish stock1 #ajc4 ,oyster soup1 #ajd4 ,clam soup1 #ajd4 ,cream ,soups4 ,onion soup1 #aje4 ,potato soup1 #aje4 ,tomato bisque1 #ajf4 ,cream of asparagus1 #ajf4 ,green peas1 #ajf4 ,string beans1 #ajf4 ,spinach1 #ajf4 ,corn1 #ajf4 ,celery1 #ajf4 ,clams1 #ajg4 ,oysters1 #ajh4 ,soup a la reine1 #ajh4 ,bisque of lobster1 #aji4 ,lobster butter1 #aji4 ,chowders4 ,potato chowder1 #aaj4 ,fish chowder1 #aaj4 ,clam chowder1 #aaa4 ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,fish4 ,cooking1 #aab4 ,freshness1 #aab4 ,dressing1 #aab4 ,keeping1 #aab4 ,frozen fish1 #aab4 ,trimming1 #aab4 ,the bones1 #aab4 ,to skin1 bone1 and remove fillets1 #aab4 ,to carve1 #aac4 ,to boil1 #aac4 ,time to boil1 #aac4 ,the kettle1 #aac4 ,to boil a fish whole1 #aad4 ,serving boiled fish1 #aad4 ,garnishing boiled fish1 #aad4 ,sauces used for boiled fish1 #aad4 ,court bouillon1 #aae4 ,baked fish1 #aae4 ,stuffings for baked fish1 #aaf4 ,to broil fish1 #aaf4 ,to saute fish1 #aag4 ,to fry fish1 #aag4 ,to fry smelts1 #aag4 ,fried smelts on skewers1 #aag4 ,fried fillets of fish1 #aah4 ,smelts broiled1 #aah4 ,whitebait1 #aah4 ,boiled halibut steaks1 #aai4 ,halibut1 ,turkish style1 #abj4 ,scalloped fish1 #abj4 ,au gratin1 #aba4 ,fish chops1 #aba4 ,fillets baked with custard or tomatoes1 #abb4 ,cold fish1 #abc4 ,fish pudding1 #abc4 ,fish timbale1 #abc4 ,fish dish for pink luncheon1 #abd4 ,rolled fillets of flounder1 #abe4 ,shad1 #abe4 ,planked shad1 #abe4 ,broiled shad roe1 #abf4 ,shad roe croquettes1 ,no4 #a1 #abf4 ,no4 #b1 #abf4 ,salt mackerel1 #abg4 ,creamed mackerel1 #abg4 ,salt codfish1 #abg4 ,club house fish balls1 #abh4 ,broiled sardines on toast1 #abh4 ,fresh fish balls1 #abh4 ,salmon1 #abh4 ,canned salmon1 #abi4 ,salmon cutlets1 #abi4 ,broiled slices of salmon1 #abi4 ,slices of salmon with mayonnaise1 #abi4 ,fillets of salmon for green luncheon1 #acj4 ,croustade of shrimps1 #acj4 ,shell-fish1 ,lobsters1 and ,crabs4 ,oysters1 #aca4 ,raw oysters1 #aca4 ,precaution1 #aca4 ,cooking1 #aca4 ,fried oysters1 #acb4 ,oysters a la ,villeroi1 #acb4 ,broiled oysters1 #acb4 ,panned oysters1 #acc4 ,roasted oysters1 #acc4 ,oysters a la poulette1 #acc4 ,scalloped oysters1 #acd4 ,oyster filling for patties1 #acd4 ,clams1 #ace4 ,to open clams1 #ace4 ,creamed clams1 #ace4 ,roasted clams1 #acf4 ,clam fritters1 #acf4 ,scallops1 #acf4 ,lobsters1 #acf4 ,season1 #acf4 ,freshness1 #acf4 ,to kill a lobster1 #acf4 ,boil a lobster1 #acf4 ,open a lobster1 #acg4 ,broil a lobster1 #acg4 ,bake a lobster1 #acg4 ,lobster farci1 #ach4 ,chops1 #ach4 a la ,newburg1 #aci4 ,stew1 #adj4 ,filling for patties1 #adj4 ,salpicon of lobster1 #adj4 ,crabs1 #ada4 ,deviled crabs1 #ada4 ,stuffed crabs with mushrooms1 #adb4 ,soft-shell crabs1 #adb4 ,oyster-crabs1 #adc4 ,crabs ,st4 ,laurent 7chafing-dish71 #adc4 ,crab stew1 #add4 ,,chapter ,,iv4 ,meats4 ,general remarks1 #ade4 ,slow cooking1 #ade4 ,juices1 #ade4 ,degree of cooking1 #ade4 ,cleaning1 #ade4 ,seasoning1 #ade4 ,piercing1 #adf4 ,beef4 ,to roast beef1 #adf4 ,rolled roast beef1 #adf4 ,yorkshire pudding1 #adg4 ,round of beef1 #adg4 ,braised beef1 #adg4 ,a la mode1 #adh4 ,bouilli1 #adi4 ,fillet of beef1 #adi4 ,how to buy a fillet1 #aej4 ,cold roast beef1 #aea4 ,scalloped meat1 #aea4 ,hamburg steaks1 #aea4 ,beef pie1 #aeb4 ,warmed-over beef 7chafing-dish71 #aeb4 ,inside flank1 #aec4 ,ragout of beef1 #aec4 ,beefsteaks1 #aee4 ,to broil a beefsteak1 #aef4 ,chateaubriand1 #aeg4 ,mignon fillets1 #aeg4 ,corned beef1 #aeg4 ,corned beef hash1 #aeh4 ,hash1 #aeh4 ,brown hash1 #aei4 ,marrow bones1 #aei4 ,mutton4 ,remarks about mutton1 #afj4 ,roast leg of mutton1 #afb4 ,loin of mutton1 #afb4 ,saddle of mutton1 #afb4 ,rolled loin of mutton1 #afb4 ,shoulder of mutton stuffed1 #afc4 ,boiled mutton1 #afc4 ,caper sauce1 #afd4 ,ragout of mutton or lamb1 #afd4 of ,cold boiled mutton1 #afe4 ,irish stew1 #afe4 ,mutton chops1 #afe4 ,chops in paper cases1 #aff4 a la ,maintenon1 #afg4 ,spring lamb1 #afg4 ,veal4 ,remarks about veal1 #afh4 ,to roast fillet of veal1 #afh4 ,stuffed shoulder of veal1 #afh4 ,fricandeau of veal1 #afi4 ,veal cutlets1 #afi4 ,a plain pot-pie1 #afi4 ,dumplings with baking-powder1 #agj4 ,dumplings with suet1 #aga4 ,jellied veal1 #aga4 ,veal loaf1 #aga4 ,veal scallop1 #aga4 ,liver and bacon1 #agb4 ,broiled liver1 #agb4 ,braised liver1 #agb4 ,stewed kidneys1 #agc4 ,tripe1 #agc4 ,calf's heart1 #agd4 ,beef's tongue1 #agd4 ,hot sliced tongue1 #agd4 ,cold tongue1 #age4 ,jellied tongue1 #age4 ,boiled calf's head1 #age4 ,calf's head with vinaigrette sauce1 #agf4 ,pork4 ,roast pork1 #agf4 ,fried apples1 #agf4 ,pork ,chops1 #agg4 ,boiled ham1 #agg4 ,baked ham1 #agg4 ,broiled ham and eggs1 #agh4 ,ham and eggs a l'aurore1 #agh4 ,bacon1 #agh4 ,,chapter ,v4 ,poultry and ,game4 ,chickens1 #agi4 ,to judge of chickens1 #agi4 ,to clean and draw poultry1 #ahj4 ,to bone a fowl1 #aha4 ,roasted boned chicken1 #ahb4 ,braised boned chicken1 #ahb4 ,jellied boned chicken1 #ahb4 ,forcemeat or stuffing for boned fowls1 #ahc4 ,to truss a fowl1 #ahc4 ,roasted chicken1 #ahd4 ,stuffing for fowls1 #ahd4 ,chestnut stuffing1 #ahe4 ,giblet sauce1 #ahe4 ,boiled chicken1 #ahe4 ,braised chicken1 #ahf4 ,broiled chicken1 #ahf4 ,fricasseed chicken1 white and brown1 #ahf4 ,fried chicken1 #ahg4 ,chicken fritters1 #ahg4 ,stuffed chicken or turkey legs1 #ahh4 ,grilled bones1 #ahh4 ,chicken a la ,vienne1 #ahi4 ,baltimore style1 #ahi4 ,imperial1 #ahi4 ,breasts with poulette sauce1 #aij4 ,chartreuse1 #aij4 ,souffle1 #aij4 ,loaf1 #aia4 ,chaudfroid1 #aia4 ,mayonnaise1 #aib4 ,english chicken pie 7cold71 #aib4 ,turkey1 #aic4 ,galantine or boned turkey1 #aic4 ,roast goose1 #aid4 ,tame ducks1 #aie4 ,game4 ,canvasbacks and redhead ducks1 #aif4 ,salmi of duck or game1 #aif4 ,potted pigeons1 #aig4 ,roasted pigeons or squabs1 #aig4 ,prairie chicken or grouse1 roasted1 #aig4 ,quails roasted1 #aih4 ,broiled1 #aih4 ,snipe and woodcock1 roasted1 #aih4 ,partridges1 roasted and broiled1 #aii4 ,venison1 #aii4 ,steak1 #aii4 ,,chapter ,,vi4 ,vegetables4 ,general directions1 #bjj4 ,potatoes1 boiled1 #bja4 ,mashed1 #bja4 ,cakes1 #bja4 ,rice1 #bjb4 ,souffle1 #bjb4 ,roses1 #bjb4 ,croquettes1 #bjb4 ,balls1 #bjc4 ,omelet1 #bjc4 ,creamed1 #bjc4 ,broiled1 #bjd4 ,baked1 #bjd4 ,stuffed1 #bjd4 ,baked with meat1 #bjd4 ,lyonnaise1 #bjd4 ,fried1 #bje4 ,balls1 fried1 and straws1 #bje4 ,saratoga1 #bje4 ,puffed1 #bjf4 ,sweet potatoes boiled1 #bjf4 ,baked1 #bjf4 ,browned1 #bjf4 ,croquettes1 #bjg4 ,puree1 #bjg4 ,tomatoes1 stewed1 #bjg4 ,scalloped1 #bjg4 ,stuffed1 #bjg4 ,roasted1 #bjh4 ,broiled1 #bjh4 ,farci1 #bjh4 ,green peas1 #bji4 ,puree of peas1 #bji4 ,string beans1 #bji4 ,flageolets1 #baj4 ,lima beans1 #baj4 ,spinach1 #baj4 ,souffle1 #baa4 ,chartreuse of spinach or cabbage1 #baa4 ,asparagus1 #baa4 ,tips1 #bab4 ,cabbage1 #bab4 ,boiled cabbage1 #bab4 with cheese1 #bac4 ,swedish1 #bac4 ,hot slaw1 #bad4 ,brussels sprouts1 #bad4 ,cauliflower1 #bad4 au gratin1 #bae4 ,egg-plant1 #bae4 ,stuffed1 #bae4 ,peppers1 stuffed1 #bae4 ,chestnut puree1 #bae4 ,celery1 stewed1 #baf4 au jus1 #baf4 ,carrots and turnips1 #baf4 ,macedoine of vegetables1 #baf4 ,dried beans1 #bag4 ,boiled #bag4 ,baked #bag4 ,puree of beans1 #bag4 ,croquettes of ,beans1 #bag4 ,beets1 #bag4 ,summer squash1 #bah4 ,parsnips1 #bah4 ,cucumbers1 boiled1 #bah4 ,stuffed1 #bah4 ,lettuce stewed1 #bai4 ,onions1 #bai4 ,spanish onions1 stuffed1 #bai4 ,corn on the ear1 #bbj4 ,mock oysters1 #bbj4 ,canned1 #bbj4 ,succotash1 #bbj4 ,artichokes1 #bbj4 ,bottoms1 #bba4 ,,chapter ,,vii4 ,farinaceous ,foods used as ,vegetables--,receipts for ,macaroni--,cereals4 ,to boil rice1 #bbb4 ,rice and tomatoes1 #bbc4 ,parched rice1 #bbc4 ,farina balls1 #bbc4 ,hominy fried1 #bbd4 ,cornmeal mush fried1 #bbd4 ,receipts for ,macaroni4 ,macaroni1 #bbd4 ,spaghetti1 #bbe4 ,baked macaroni with cheese1 #bbe4 au gratin1 #bbe4 with tomato or other sauces1 #bbe4 ,baked macaroni with minced meat1 #bbf4 ,receipt for macaroni from ,mrs4 ,maspero1 #bbf4 ,sauce for macaroni1 for rissotto1 and for polenta1 #bbf4 ,sauce for macaroni ,no4 #b1 #bbf4 #c1 #bbg4 ,polenta1 #bbg4 ,risotto1 #bbg4 ,cereals4 ,oatmeal porridge1 #bbg4 ,cracked wheat1 #bbh4 ,cornmeal mush1 #bbh4 ,,chapter ,,viii4 ,a ,group of ,receipts from a ,new ,england ,kitchen4 ,split-pea soup1 #bbi4 ,black bean soup1 #bbi4 ,clam soup1 #bcj4 ,clam chowder1 #bcj4 ,fish chowder1 #bcj4 ,browned oysters1 #bca4 ,fish and oysters1 #bca4 ,scalloped oysters1 #bca4 ,pickled oysters1 #bcb4 ,fricasseed oysters1 #bcb4 ,stewed lobster1 #bcb4 ,fish balls1 #bcb4 ,codfish and cream1 #bcc4 ,oysters on a chafing-dish1 #bcc4 ,pilau1 #bcc4 ,spiced shad1 #bcc4 ,pork and beans1 #bcd4 ,a rechauffe of cold mutton1 #bcd4 ,corned beef1 #bcd4 ,a beefsteak pie1 #bce4 ,easy chicken salad1 #bce4 ,cream dressing1 #bce4 ,macaroni a l'albi1 #bcf4 ,corn pudding1 #bcf4 ,thin ,indian bread1 #bcf4 ,graham gems1 #bcg4 ,colonial hoe-cakes1 #bcg4 ,rhode ,island johnny-cake1 #bcg4 ,boston brown bread1 #bcg4 ,dabs1 #bch4 ,cream oatmeal1 #bch4 ,zephyrs1 #bch4 ,squash pies1 #bch4 ,pumpkin pies1 #bci4 ,a rule for simple pie-crust1 #bci4 ,a boiled ,indian pudding1 #bdj4 ,a baked ,indian pudding1 #bdj4 ,orange ,indian pudding1 #bda4 ,blueberry pudding1 #bda4 ,a peach pudding1 #bda4 ,cherry bread1 #bda4 ,lemon rice pudding1 #bdb4 ,bermuda pudding1 #bdb4 ,rice and marmalade pudding1 #bdb4 ,molasses pie1 #bdb4 ,prune jelly with almonds1 #bdc4 ,clarified apples1 #bdc4 ,lemon ice1 #bdc4 ,apple sauce1 #bdc4 ,stewed pears1 #bdd4 ,cranberry jelly1 #bdd4 ,hartford election cake1 #bdd4 ,instantaneous frosting1 #bde4 ,,chapter ,,ix4 ,distinctively ,southern ,dishes4 ,general remarks1 #bdf4 ,pone1 #bdf4 ,hoe-cake ,no4 #a1 #bdf4 ,no4 #b1 #bdg4 ,kentucky corn dodgers1 #bdg4 ,maryland beaten biscuits1 #bdg4 ,soft corn bread1 #bdg4 ,southern way of cooking rice1 #bdh4 ,chicken gumbo1 #bdi4 ,gumbo file 7,new ,orleans71 #bdh4 ,very ,inexpensive ,dishes4 ,very inexpensive dinners1 #bdi4 ,to prepare a shin of beef1 #bej4 another way1 #bej4 ,beefsteak pudding1 #bea4 ,menus for inexpensive dinners1 #beb4 ,scotch broth1 #beb4 ,tapioca and apples1 #beb4 ,veal with white sauce1 #bec4 ,purified cabbage1 #bec4 ,chops cut from the shoulder1 #bec4 ,apple dumplings1 #bec4 ,curry1 #bed4 ,madras curry1 #bed4 ,liver saute1 #bee4 ,breast of mutton1 #bee4 ,tomato soup1 #bee4 ,carrot #bef4 ,potato #bef4 ,bean #bef4 ,celery #bef4 ,miscellaneous receipts4 ,sterilized milk1 #beg4 ,devonshire cream1 ,no4 #a1 #beh4 ,no4 #b1 #beh4 ,to make fresh butter1 #beh4 ,to make white hard soap1 #bei4 ,floor polish1 #bfj4 ,,chapter ,x4 ,eggs4 ,to judge of freshness1 and how to preserve eggs1 #bfa4 ,boiled eggs1 #bfb4 #a1 #bfb4 #b1 #bfb4 #c1 #bfb4 ,poached eggs1 ,no4 #a1 #bfc4 ,no4 #b1 ,french style1 #bfc4 ,no4 #c1 #bfc4 ,fried #bfd4 ,scrambled1 #bfd4 ,plain ,french omelet1 #bfd4 ,variations of the1 #bfe4 ,no4 #a1 #bfe4 ,no4 #b1 #bfe4 ,no4 #c1 green1 #bff4 ,no4 #d1 aux fines herbes1 #bff4 ,no4 #e1 with peas or tomatoes1 #bff4 ,no4 #f1 with ham1 #bff4 ,beaten omelet1 #bff4 ,shirred eggs1 #bff4 sur le plat1 #bff4 au miroir1 #bff4 cocotte1 #bff4 ,molded eggs1 #bfg4 a la polignac1 #bfg4 ,ham and eggs1 #bfh4 ,poached eggs on anchovy toast 7supper dish71 #bfh4 ,poached eggs on anchovy toast 7entree for luncheon71 #bfh4 ,poached egg with tomato1 #bfh4 ,eggs a la villeroi 7entree for luncheon71 #bfi4 ,egg a la ,bourguinonne1 #bgj4 a l'aurore1 #bgj4 ,golden cream toast1 #bgj4 ,curried eggs1 #bga4 ,stuffed ,no4 #a1 #bga4 #b1 #bgb4 ,egg croquettes1 #bgb4 ,other ways of serving hard-boiled eggs1 #bgb4 ,tomatoes stuffed with eggs1 #bgb4 ,o,eufs a la reine1 ,downtown club1 ,n4,y41 #bgc4 ,eggs ,livingston1 ,eggs au beurre noir1 #bgc4 ,spanish omelet1 #bgd4 ,,chapter ,,xi4 ,sauces4 ,general directions1 #bge4 ,glaze1 #bgg4 ,roux for sauces1 #bgg4 ,white sauce1 #bgg4 for fish1 #bgh4 ,egg #bgh4 ,caper #bgi4 ,oyster #bgi4 ,celery #bgi4 ,lobster #bgi4 ,veloute and allemande1 #bgi4 ,bechamel1 #bgi4 ,poulette1 #bhj4 ,villeroi1 #bhj4 ,hollandaise1 #bha4 ,chaudfroid1 #bha4 ,brown sauce1 #bhb4 ,espagnole1 #bhb4 ,champagne sauce1 #bhc4 ,piquante #bhc4 ,soubise #bhd4 ,horseradish #bhd4 ,mustard #bhd4 ,curry #bhd4 ,olive #bhe4 ,tomato #bhe4 ,mushroom #bhf4 ,maitre d'hotel1 #bhf4 ,mint sauce1 #bhg4 ,bread sauce1 #bhg4 ,jelly sauce1 #bhg4 ,cranberry sauce1 #bhg4 ,apple1 #bhh4 ,bearnaise1 #bhh4 ,mayonnaise1 #bhh4 ,white1 #bhi4 ,green1 #bhi4 ,red1 #bij4 ,jelly1 #bij4 ,with arrowroot1 #bij4 ,tartare1 #bij4 ,agra dolce1 #bia4 ,,chapter ,,xii4 ,entrees4 ,croquettes1 general directions for making1 #bib4 ,the ,enterprise chopper1 #bic4 ,sauce for croquette mixture1 #bic4 ,to mold croquettes1 #bic4 ,to fry croquettes1 #bid4 ,materials used for croquettes1 #bie4 ,timbales1 #bif4 ,truffles1 #bif4 ,cream chicken forcemeat1 #big4 ,cream forcemeat ,no4 #b1 #big4 ,fish cream forcemeat1 #big4 ,quenelle forcemeat1 #bih4 ,bread panada1 #bih4 ,flour panada1 #bih4 ,to mold and cook timbales1 #bih4 ,salpicon1 #bii4 ,fontage cup1 #cjj4 ,pain de volaille1 #cjj4 ,quenelles1 #cjj4 ,palmettes1 #cja4 ,celestines a la ,maintenon1 #cja4 ,boudins ,rouennaise1 #cjb4 ,macaroni timbale1 #cjb4 ,honeycomb timbale1 #cjb4 ,a simple timbale of halibut1 #cjc4 ,pastry timbale1 #cjc4 ,potato and fish timbale1 #cjd4 ,vol-au-vent1 #cjd4 ,patties1 #cje4 ,rissoles1 #cje4 ,to prepare sweetbreads1 #cje4 ,baked sweetbreads1 #cjf4 ,braised sweetbreads1 #cjf4 ,sauted sweetbreads1 #cjf4 ,fried sweetbreads1 #cjf4 ,sweetbreads a la poulette1 #cjf4 ,chaudfroid of sweetbreads1 #cjf4 ,calf's brains1 #cjg4 ,head a la vinaigrette1 #cjg4 ,marinade of brains1 #cjg4 ,false terrapin1 #cjh4 ,calf's head a la poulette1 #cjh4 ,oyster cases1 #cjh4 ,liver loaf1 or false pate de foie gras1 #cjh4 ,chicken livers1 #cji4 ,stuffed mushrooms1 #cji4 ,chicken puree1 #caj4 ,oyster-crabs1 #caj4 ,entree of oyster-crabs1 #caj4 ,terrapin4 ,terrapin1 general remarks about1 #caa4 ,to prepare1 #cab4 ,stewed in ,maryland style1 #cac4 a la ,newburg1 #cac4 ,frogs' legs1 fried1 #cac4 a la poulette1 #cac4 ,mushrooms4 ,remarks about mushrooms1 #cad4 ,cooking mushrooms1 #caf4 ,the ,fairy ,ring ,champignon 7,marasmius ,oreades71 #cag4 ,the ,agaricus ,campestris1 #cag4 ,procerus1 #cah4 ,russula1 #cah4 ,coprinus ,comatus1 #cah4 ,atramentarius1 #cah4 ,the ,boleti1 #cah4 ,puff balls1 #cai4 ,morchellae ,esculentae1 #cai4 ,hydnum ,caput ,medusae1 #cai4 ,clavaria1 #cai4 ,to dry mushrooms1 #cbj4 ,scalloped mushrooms1 #cbj4 ,mushrooms a la poulette1 #cbj4 ,,chapter ,,xiii4 ,aspic ,jelly1 ,fancy ,molding ,supports4 ,aspic jelly1 #cba4 ,to clear aspic1 #cbb4 ,quick aspic1 #cbb4 ,chicken aspic or jelly1 #cbc4 ,aspic croutons1 #cbc4 ,to chop jelly1 #cbc4 ,mold jelly1 #cbc4 ,unmold jelly1 #cbd4 ,ornament molds1 #cbd4 ,double molds1 #cbe4 ,decorations for meat jelly1 #cbf4 ,daisy design1 #cbf4 ,berry design1 #cbf4 ,to decorate with truffles1 #cbf4 ,socles1 #cbf4 ,rice socle or casserole1 #cbg4 ,potato casserole1 #cbg4 ,a potato support for hot meats1 #cbh4 ,croustades of bread1 #cbh4 ,roll croustades1 #cbh4 ,,chapter ,,xiv4 ,chafing-dish ,cooking4 ,the chafing-dish1 #cbi4 ,kind of chafing-dish to use1 #cbi4 ,russian bowls1 #cbi4 ,wooden spoons1 #ccj4 ,dishes suitable for chafing-dish1 #ccj4 ,panned oysters1 #cca4 ,oyster stew1 #cca4 ,creamed oysters and clams1 #cca4 ,barbecue of fish1 #cca4 ,eggs with tomatoes1 #ccb4 ,tomatoes and rice1 #ccb4 ,creamed dishes3 eggs1 chicken1 veal1 #ccb4 ,dishes a la ,newburg1 #ccc4 ,terrapin1 #ccc4 ,chicken livers with ,madeira1 #ccc4 ,crab toast1 #ccd4 ,smelts a la ,toulouse1 #ccd4 ,meats1 #cce4 ,venison1 #cce4 ,mutton1 #cce4 ,beef1 #cce4 ,welsh rabbit and golden buck1 #cce4 ,fondu-,savarin1 #cce4 ,pineapple canapes1 #ccf4 ,chocolate made with condensed milk1 #ccg4 ,,chapter ,,xv4 ,bread4 ,remarks about yeast1 #cch4 ,yeast1 #cch4 ,dick ,bennet's receipt for yeast1 #cci4 ,yeast receipt ,no4 #b1 #cci4 ,what to do when yeast is not obtainable to start the fermentation1 #cci4 ,proportions of raising materials and other items1 #cdj4 ,general directions for making bread1 #cdj4 ,time1 #cdj4 ,raising1 #cda4 ,proportions of material1 #cda4 ,mixing1 #cdb4 ,making a sponge1 #cdb4 ,the crust on dough1 #cdb4 ,kneading and molding1 #cdb4 ,baking1 #cdc4 ,care of bread after it is baked1 #cdd4 ,baking bread rolls1 #cdd4 ,flour1 #cdd4 ,bread pans1 #cdd4 ,water bread ,no4 #a1 #cde4 #b1 #cde4 ,milk bread1 #cde4 ,potato bread1 #cde4 ,receipt for making one loaf of bread or one pan of biscuits in two hours1 #cdf4 ,bread made with baking-powder1 #cdf4 ,whole wheat flour1 #cdf4 ,graham bread1 #cdf4 ,gluten bread1 #cdg4 ,boston brown bread1 #cdg4 ,toast1 #cdh4 ,milk toast1 #cdh4 ,panada1 #cdh4 ,pulled bread1 #cdi4 ,zwieback1 #cdi4 ,bread fritters1 #cdi4 ,bread rolls1 #cdi4 ,crescents1 #cej4 ,braids and twists1 #cej4 ,cleft rolls1 #cea4 ,luncheon and tea rolls1 #cea4 ,parker ,house rolls1 #cea4 ,tea biscuits made with baking-powder1 #ceb4 ,sour milk1 #ceb4 ,corn bread ,no4 #a1 #cec4 ,no4 #b1 #cec4 ,puffs or pop-overs1 #ced4 ,graham gems1 #ced4 ,corn gems1 #ced4 ,muffins1 #cee4 ,raised muffins1 #cee4 ,english muffins or crumpets1 #cee4 ,sally ,lunn1 #cee4 ,waffles1 #cef4 ,hominy cake1 #cef4 ,oat cake1 #cef4 ,bran biscuits1 #ceg4 ,bread sticks1 #ceg4 ,rusks1 #ceg4 ,dried rusks1 #ceh4 ,bath buns1 #ceh4 ,coffee cake1 #ceh4 ,brioche1 #cei4 ,to make a brioche roll with head1 #cfj4 a brioche crown or ring1 #cfj4 ,buns1 #cfj4 ,brioche for timbales or cabinet puddings1 #cfa4 ,pancakes1 #cfa4 ,plain pancakes1 #cfb4 ,flannel cakes1 #cfb4 ,rice pancakes1 #cfb4 ,bread pancakes1 #cfb4 ,cornmeal pancakes1 #cfc4 ,buckwheat pancakes1 #cfc4 ,adirondack pancakes1 #cfc4 ,,chapter ,,xvi4 ,sandwiches and ,canapes4 ,general remarks1 #cfd4 ,shapes1 #cfd4 ,how to prepare the meat1 #cfd4 ,butter1 #cfe4 ,rolls1 #cfe4 ,how to prepare the bread1 #cfe4 ,meat sandwiches1 #cfe4 ,fish sandwiches1 #cff4 ,egg sandwiches1 #cff4 ,salad sandwiches1 #cff4 ,spanish sandwiches1 #cfg4 ,cheese sandwiches 7mock crab71 #cfg4 ,raw beef sandwiches1 #cfg4 ,sweet sandwiches1 #cfg4 ,canapes1 #cfh4 ,cheese canapes1 #cfh4 ,ham canapes1 #cfh4 ,anchovy canape1 #cfh4 ,sardine canape1 #cfh4 ,canape ,lorenzo1 #cfi4 ,cheese and ,cheese ,dishes4 ,general directions1 #cfi4 ,cheese souffle1 #cgj4 ,crackers and cheese1 #cga4 ,cheese canapes1 #cga4 ,welsh rarebit1 #cga4 ,golden buck1 #cgb4 ,cheese straws ,no4 #a1 #cgb4 ,straws ,no4 #b1 #cgb4 ,patties1 #cgc4 ,cottage cheese1 #cgc4 ,,chapter ,,xvii4 ,salads4 ,general directions1 #cgd4 ,to marinate1 #cgd4 ,mayonnaise1 #cge4 ,french dressing1 #cge4 ,lettuce salad1 #cgf4 ,water-cresses and apples1 #cgf4 ,celery salad1 #cgf4 ,cucumber and tomato salad1 #cgg4 ,cucumber salad to serve with fish1 #cgg4 ,string-bean salad1 #cgg4 ,bean salads1 #cgg4 ,cauliflower salad1 #cgg4 ,macedoine salad1 #cgh4 ,potato salad1 #cgh4 ,cold slaw1 #cgh4 ,hot slaw1 #cgi4 ,tomato salads1 #cgi4 ,no4 #a1 #cgi4 ,no4 #b1 stuffed tomatoes1 #chj4 ,no4 #c1 tomatoes and eggs1 #chj4 ,no4 #d1 molded tomatoes1 #chj4 ,no4 #e1 tomato jelly1 #chj4 ,celery and walnut salad1 #cha4 ,sweetbreads with celery1 #cha4 ,egg salad ,no4 #a1 #cha4 #b1 #cha4 ,orange salad1 #chb4 ,chicken salad1 #chb4 ,lobster salad1 #chb4 ,oyster salad1 #chc4 ,bouilli salad1 #chc4 ,russian salad1 #chc4 ,individual salad1 #chc4 ,note1 #chd4 ,aspic of pate en ,bellevue1 #chd4 ,chicken aspic with walnuts1 #chd4 ,bird's-nest salad1 #che4 ,,chapter ,,xviii4 ,cold ,desserts4 ,information pertaining to making desserts1 #chf4 ,utensils1 #chf4 ,table of weights and measures1 #chg4 ,proportions1 #chg4 ,materials1 #chh4 ,gelatine1 #chh4 ,chocolate1 #chh4 ,to melt chocolate1 #chh4 ,to whip eggs1 #chi4 ,sweetening meringue1 #chi4 ,milk scalded1 #chi4 ,raisins1 #chi4 ,thickening fruit juices1 #chi4 ,when to add flavoring1 #chi4 ,molding1 #chi4 ,liqueurs1 #cij4 ,wines1 #cij4 ,eau de vie de ,dantzic1 #cij4 ,vanilla bean1 #cij4 ,powder1 #cij4 ,sugar1 #cij4 ,how to make vanilla sugar1 #cia4 ,orange sugar1 #cia4 ,lemon sugar1 #cia4 ,rose sugar1 #cia4 ,orange and lemon syrups1 #cia4 ,to get pistachio flavor1 #cia4 ,peach-leaf flavor1 #cia4 ,caramel1 #cia4 ,how to make candied orange or lemon peel1 #cia4 ,coloring1 #cib4 ,garnishing1 #cib4 ,california candied fruits1 #cib4 ,angelica1 #cib4 ,currants1 raisins1 nuts1 for garnishing1 #cic4 ,fresh flowers for garnishing1 #cic4 ,colored sugars for garnishing1 #cic4 ,how to make1 #cic4 ,sauces for cold sweet dishes1 #cic4 ,canned fruits1 #cic4 ,the store-closet1 #cid4 ,custards4 ,boiled custard ,no4 #a1 #cid4 #b1 #cie4 ,floating island1 #cie4 ,chocolate custard1 #cie4 ,baked custard1 #cif4 ,caramel custard1 #cif4 ,chocolate cream custard1 #cig4 ,rennet1 #cig4 ,cornstarch ,puddings4 ,no4 #a1 a plain cornstarch pudding1 #cig4 ,no4 #b1 cornstarch with canned fruit1 #cih4 ,no4 #c1 cocoanut pudding1 #cih4 ,no4 #d1 chocolate pudding1 #cih4 ,cornstarch chocolates1 #cih4 ,blanc-mange or white jelly1 #cii4 ,plum-pudding jelly1 #cii4 ,bavarian ,creams4 ,general rules for1 #djj4 ,plain ,bavarian cream1 #djj4 ,chocolate ,bavarian cream1 #dja4 ,italian cream or ,bavarian without cream1 #dja4 ,fruit ,bavarian1 #dja4 ,rice ,bavarian1 or ,riz a l'imperatrice1 #djb4 ,bavarian panachee1 #djb4 en surprise1 #djb4 ,diplomatic pudding1 #djc4 ,bavarian1 #djc4 ,charlotte ,russe4 ,charlotte russe1 filling1 ,no4 #a1 #djd4 ,no4 #b 7with eggs71 #dje4 ,no4 #c 7with fruit71 #dje4 ,no4 #d1 #dje4 ,no4 #e1 #dje4 ,timbale of brioche1 #djf4 ,charlotte princesse de ,galles1 #djf4 ,strawberry ,charlotte1 #djf4 ,gateau ,st4 ,honore1 #djg4 ,croquenbouche of macaroons1 #djh4 ,whipped ,cream4 ,how to whip cream1 #djh4 ,whips1 #dji4 ,czarina cream1 #daj4 ,chestnut puree with cream1 #daj4 ,chestnuts with cream1 #daj4 ,uses for ,stale ,cake4 ,pine cones1 #daa4 ,cake with custard1 #daa4 ,trifle 7,esther71 #daa4 ,banana trifle 7,martha71 #dab4 ,sweet ,jellies4 ,points to observe in making jellies1 #dab4 ,dissolving1 #dab4 ,proportions1 #dac4 ,clarifying1 #dac4 ,molding for fancy jellies1 #dac4 ,serving jellies1 #dad4 ,to clarify fruit juices1 #dae4 ,wine jelly1 #dae4 ,lemon jelly1 #dae4 ,orange jelly1 #dae4 ,coffee jelly1 #daf4 ,champagne jelly1 #daf4 ,champagne jelly with flowers1 #daf4 ,whipped jelly or snow pudding1 #dag4 ,jellies with fruits 7macedoine71 #dag4 ,russian jellies1 #dag4 ,ribbon jelly1 #dah4 ,italian jelly1 #dah4 ,dantzic jelly1 #dah4 ,what to do with jelly left over1 #dah4 ,pains aux ,fruits or ,jellied ,fruits4 ,pain de fraises 7strawberries71 #dai4 ,supreme of strawberries1 #dai4 ,pain de riz aux fruits 7rice with fruits71 #dai4 ,pain de riz a la princesse1 #dai4 ,pain d'oranges 7oranges71 #dbj4 de peches 7peaches71 #dbj4 de marrons 7chestnuts71 #dbj4 ,,chapter ,,xix4 ,hot ,desserts4 ,souffles1 #dba4 ,omelet1 #dbb4 ,vanilla1 #dbb4 ,chocolate1 #dbc4 ,prune1 #dbc4 ,apple1 #dbd4 ,farina pudding1 #dbd4 ,sweet ,omelets4 ,orange omelet1 #dbe4 ,jam omelet1 #dbe4 ,rum omelet1 #dbf4 ,sweet pancakes1 #dbf4 ,fritters4 ,fritter batter1 #dbf4 ,apple fritters1 #dbg4 ,peach or apricot fritters1 #dbg4 ,orange fritters1 #dbg4 ,biscuit dough1 #dbh4 ,balloons1 #dbh4 ,batter pudding1 #dbh4 ,desserts made of ,apples4 ,snow apple pudding1 #dbi4 ,brown ,betty1 #dbi4 ,baked apple dumplings1 #dbi4 ,apple ,charlotte1 #dcj4 ,apples with rice1 ,no4 #a1 #dcj4 #b1 #dca4 ,with cornstarch 7,felice71 #dcb4 ,flaming apples1 #dcb4 ,baked apples 7for breakfast71 #dcb4 7for luncheon71 #dcb4 ,tapioca pudding1 #dcc4 ,rice ,puddings4 ,plain rice pudding ,no4 #a1 #dcc4 #b1 #dcc4 ,rice and raisins1 #dcd4 ,bread ,puddings4 ,bread pudding1 #dcd4 ,bread and butter pudding1 #dcd4 ,bread tarts1 #dce4 ,cake ,puddings4 ,cottage pudding1 #dce4 ,canary pudding1 #dcf4 ,suet pudding1 #dcf4 ,farina pudding1 boiled1 #dcf4 ,christmas plum pudding1 #dcg4 ,fig pudding1 #dch4 ,cabinet pudding ,no4 #a1 #dch4 #b1 #dci4 #c 7royale71 #dci4 #d1 #ddj4 ,savarins1 #ddj4 ,baba1 #ddj4 ,custards4 ,creme ,parisienne1 #dda4 ,fried ,cream1 #dda4 ,shortcakes4 ,strawberry shortcake1 #ddb4 ,currant shortcake1 #ddb4 ,strawberry cake1 #ddc4 ,roly-poly pudding1 #ddc4 ,fruit pudding1 #ddc4 ,baked ,indian pudding1 #ddc4 ,pudding ,sauces4 ,plain pudding sauce ,no4 #a 7hot71 #ddd4 #b 7,cold71 #dde4 ,rich pudding sauce1 #dde4 ,foamy pudding sauce1 #dde4 ,brandy1 rum1 or kirsch sauce1 #dde4 ,sabayon ,no4 #a1 #ddf4 #b1 #ddf4 ,syrup sauce1 #ddf4 ,fruit sauces1 #ddf4 ,apricot sauce1 #ddf4 ,puree of fruit1 #ddg4 ,pineapple sauce1 #ddg4 ,boiled custard sauce1 #ddg4 ,chocolate sauce1 #ddg4 ,bischoff sauce1 #ddg4 ,richelieu sauce1 #ddh4 ,meringue sauce1 #ddh4 ,hard sauce1 #ddh4 ,strawberry sauce1 #ddi4 ,cocoanut sauce1 #ddi4 ,cold jelly sauce1 #ddi4 ,,chapter ,,xx4 ,pies4 ,plain pastry for pies1 #dea4 ,pastry for tarts or open pies1 #deb4 ,tart pies1 #deb4 ,orange pie1 #dec4 ,a plain apple pie1 #ded4 ,pumpkin pie1 #ded4 ,mince pie mixture1 #ded4 ,cream pie1 #dee4 ,cocoanut pie1 #def4 ,cranberry pie1 #def4 ,washington pie1 #deg4 ,puff-,paste4 ,general rules1 #deg4 ,receipt for puff-paste1 #deh4 ,pate shells1 #dfj4 ,tart bands1 #dfj4 ,millefeuilles1 #dfa4 ,tartlets1 #dfa4 ,paganini tartlets1 #dfa4 ,to glaze or egg pastry1 #dfa4 ,,chapter ,,xxi4 ,cake4 ,rules for making cake1 #dfb4 ,how to beat eggs1 #dfc4 ,to line tins with paper1 #dfc4 ,to grease pans1 #dfd4 ,to bake cake1 #dfd4 ,mixing sponge cake1 #dfe4 ,cake made with butter1 #dfe4 ,sponge cake ,no4 #a1 #dff4 #b1 #dff4 #c1 #dff4 ,white sponge or angel cake1 #dfg4 ,sunshine cake1 #dfg4 ,genoese cake1 #dfg4 ,jelly rolls1 #dfh4 ,layer cakes--chocolate1 vanilla1 coffee1 #dfh4 ,cream filling1 #dfh4 ,chocolate filling1 #dfi4 ,orange cake1 #dfi4 ,filling1 #dfi4 ,pistachio cake1 #dfi4 ,plain cup cake1 #dgj4 ,gold and silver cake1 #dgj4 ,marble cake1 #dgj4 ,richer cup1 or #a1 #b1 #c1 #d cake1 #dga4 ,pound cake1 #dga4 ,white cake1 #dga4 ,plain fruit cake1 #dgb4 ,brod torte1 #dgb4 ,fruit cake 7rich71 #dgc4 ,cream cakes and eclairs1 #dgc4 ,cream cakes1 #dgd4 ,chocolate1 vanilla1 and coffee eclairs1 #dgd4 ,carolines1 #dge4 ,fancy ,small ,cakes4 ,meringues and kisses1 #dge4 ,lady-fingers1 #dgf4 ,macaroons1 #dgg4 ,cocoanut balls or cones1 #dgg4 ,madeleines ,no4 #a1 #dgg4 #b1 #dgh4 ,little pound cakes1 #dgh4 ,orange quarters1 #dgh4 ,almond wafers1 #dgh4 ,venetian cakes1 #dgi4 ,gauffres1 #dgi4 ,jumbles1 ,cookies1 and ,plain ,cakes4 ,jumbles1 #dhj4 ,sand tarts1 #dhj4 ,rolled jumbles1 #dhj4 ,plain cookies1 #dha4 ,ginger snaps1 #dha4 ,crullers1 #dha4 ,doughnuts1 #dha4 ,bread cake1 #dhb4 ,one-egg cake1 #dhb4 ,warren's cake1 #dhb4 ,molasses wafers1 #dhb4 ,soft gingerbread1 #dhc4 ,molasses cake1 #dhc4 ,icing and ,decorating ,cakes4 ,royal icing1 #dhc4 with confectioner's sugar1 #dhd4 ,boiled icing ,no4 #a1 #dhd4 #b1 #dhd4 ,chocolate icing ,no4 #a1 #dhd4 ,chocolate icing ,no4 #b1 #dhe4 #c1 #dhe4 ,icing for small cakes1 #dhe4 ,coffee icing for eclairs1 #dhe4 ,fondant icing1 #dhe4 ,garnishing ,cakes4 ,with powdered sugar1 #dhf4 ,chopped nuts1 #dhf4 ,colored sugars1 #dhf4 ,two colors1 #dhf4 ,to decorate in designs1 #dhg4 ,,chapter ,,xxii4 ,frozen ,desserts4 ,ice-,creams1 ,water-ices1 ,parfaits1 ,mousses1 ,frozen ,fruits1 ,punches1 and ,sherbets4 ,remarks about frozen desserts1 #dhh4 ,classification of ice-creams1 #dhh4 ,general rules for making ice-creams1 #dhi4 ,the cream1 #dhi4 ,sugar1 #dhi4 ,custards1 #dhi4 for biscuits and parfaits1 #dij4 ,freezing1 #dij4 ,packing1 #dij4 ,molding1 #dia4 ,fancy molding1 #dia4 ,unmolding1 #dic4 ,ornamental creams1 #dic4 ,individual creams1 #dic4 ,vanilla ice-creams1 #did4 ,no4 #a1 ,philadelphia1 #did4 ,no4 #b1 ,american 7very plain71 #die4 ,no4 #c1 ,french1 #die4 ,chocolate ice-cream1 #dif4 ,caramel ice-cream ,no4 #a1 #dif4 #b1 #dig4 ,coffee ice-cream ,no4 #a1 #dig4 #b1 #dig4 ,white or angel ice-cream1 #dig4 ,italian meringue1 #dih4 ,rice ice-cream1 #dih4 ,pistachio ice-cream1 #dih4 ,neapolitan ice-cream1 #dih4 ,nesselrode pudding1 #dii4 ,plum pudding glace1 #ejj4 ,sauce for plum pudding glace or for ,nesselrode pudding1 #eja4 ,tutti frutti1 #eja4 ,fruit ice-creams1 #eja4 ,no4 #a1 #eja4 ,no4 #b1 #eja4 ,no4 #c1 #ejb4 ,no4 #d1 fruit puddings1 #ejb4 ,nut ice-creams1 #ejb4 ,parfaits4 ,general remarks about parfaits1 #ejb4 ,sugar syrup1 #ejc4 ,vanilla parfait1 #ejc4 ,maple parfait1 #ejd4 ,parfait au cafe and cafe praline1 #ejd4 ,chocolate parfait and chocolate praline1 #ejd4 ,praline powder1 #eje4 ,angel parfait1 #eje4 ,imperatrice or rice pudding glace1 #eje4 ,parfaits of chestnuts1 candied fruits1 fresh fruits or berries1 #ejf4 ,biscuits glace1 #ejf4 ,mousses4 ,fruit mousses1 #ejg4 ,golden mousse 7made without cream71 #ejg4 ,water-ices4 ,orange ice1 #ejh4 ,lemon ice1 #ejh4 ,strawberry ice1 #ejh4 ,punches and ,sherbets4 ,general remarks about punches and sherbets1 #ejh4 ,coffee punch1 #eji4 ,cafe frappe1 #eji4 ,lalla ,rookh1 #eji4 ,,chapter ,,xxiii4 ,boiling ,sugar and ,making ,candies4 ,boiling sugar1 #eaj4 ,granulation1 #eaa4 ,degrees of boiling sugar1 #eab4 ,syrups1 #eac4 ,fondant1 #eac4 ,to make fondant1 #ead4 ,spun sugar1 #eae4 ,directions for spinning sugar1 #eae4 ,glace oranges and grapes1 #eaf4 ,candies4 ,general remarks about candy making1 #eag4 ,nougat ,no4 #a 7for bonbons71 #eah4 #b 7for molding71 #eai4 #c 7soft white nougat71 #eai4 #d 7bonbons71 #ebj4 ,burnt almonds1 #ebj4 ,sugared almonds1 #ebj4 ,marrons glace1 #eba4 ,marshmallows1 #eba4 ,chocolate caramels1 #ebb4 ,caramels1 vanilla1 coffee1 maple1 #ebb4 ,bonbons of ,fondant4 ,harlequin balls1 #ebb4 ,neapolitan squares1 #ebc4 ,nut creams1 #ebc4 ,sugar-plums1 #ebc4 ,chocolate creams1 #ebd4 ,creamed nuts and creamed fruits1 #ebd4 ,cocoanut creams1 #ebd4 ,cakes1 #ebe4 ,peppermint creams1 #ebe4 ,chocolate peppermints1 #ebe4 ,to make starch molds and cast candies1 #ebe4 ,candies made from ,sugar ,boiled to the ,crack or the ,caramel4 ,peppermint drops1 #ebf4 ,carameled nuts1 #ebf4 ,almond hardbake1 #ebf4 ,peanut candy1 #ebg4 ,taffy1 #ebg4 ,molasses candy1 #ebg4 ,candied orange and lemon peel1 #ebg4 ,,chapter ,,xxiv4 ,fruits4 ,general remarks1 #ebi4 ,apples1 #ecj4 ,oranges1 #ecj4 ,grape fruit1 #ecj4 ,peaches1 #ecj4 ,strawberries1 #ecj4 ,berries1 #eca4 ,currants1 #eca4 ,bananas1 sliced1 sauted1 fried1 #eca4 ,stewed figs1 #eca4 ,salpicon of fruits1 #ecb4 ,melons1 #ecb4 ,frozen fruits1 #ecb4 ,quinces1 baked1 #ecb4 ,nuts1 #ecb4 ,salted almonds1 #ecc4 ,no4 #b1 #ecc4 ,english walnuts and filberts1 #ecc4 ,salpicon of fruit punch1 #ecc4 ,punch of white ,california canned cherries1 #ecd4 ,jellied fruit1 #ecd4 ,fruit juices1 #ecd4 ,,chapter ,,xxv4 ,compotes--,preserving and ,canning--,pickles4 ,compotes1 #ece4 ,compote of apples1 #ece4 pears1 #ecf4 oranges1 #ecf4 peaches and apricots1 #ecf4 ,preserving and canning1 #ecf4 ,preserved peaches1 #ecg4 pears1 #ech4 plums1 #ech4 grapes1 #eci4 strawberries ,no4 #a1 #eci4 strawberries ,no4 #b1 #edj4 raspberries1 #edj4 citron1 #edj4 ,canning1 #edj4 ,jams or marmalades1 #eda4 ,quince marmalade1 #edb4 ,orange #edb4 ,apple #edc4 ,brandy peaches1 #edc4 ,jellies1 #edc4 ,currant or berries1 #edc4 ,apple jelly1 #edd4 ,crab-apple jelly1 #edd4 ,quince jelly1 #edd4 ,spiced grapes1 #edd4 ,plum sauce for meats1 #edd4 ,pickles4 ,sweet pickled peaches and plums1 #ede4 ,pickled walnuts1 #ede4 cucumbers or gherkins1 #ede4 ,green tomato pickles1 #edf4 ,chow-chow1 #edf4 ,nasturtium pickle1 #edg4 ,,chapter ,,xxvi4 ,beverages4 ,filtered water1 #edh4 ,to freeze carafes1 #edh4 ,tea1 #edi4 ,the tea bag1 #eej4 ball1 #eej4 ,russian tea1 #eej4 ,tea punch1 #eej4 ,iced tea1 #eej4 ,coffee1 #eea4 ,care of coffee beans1 #eea4 ,coffee mixtures and brands1 #eea4 ,to make coffee1 #eea4 ,drip coffee1 #eeb4 ,boiled #eec4 ,iced cafe au lait1 #eec4 ,chocolate1 #eec4 ,cocoa1 #eed4 ,lemonade1 #eed4 ,orangeade1 #eed4 ,cobblers1 #eed4 ,claret cup ,no4 #a1 #eee4 #b1 #eee4 ,champagne cup ,no4 #a1 #eee4 #b1 #eee4 ,moselle cup1 #eee4 ,sauterne cup1 #eef4 ,cider cup1 #eef4 ,the ,thorp cocktail1 #eef4 ,egg-nog1 #eeg4 ,milk shake1 #eeg4 punch1 #eeg4 ,fruit syrups1 #eeg4 ,grape juice1 #eeg4 ,raspberry vinegar1 #eeh4 ,koumiss1 #eeh4 ,wines1 #efj4 ,transcriber's ,note ,the following typographical errors were corrected3 iii household affairs changed to household affairs4 #f ,mr4 and ,mrs ,james's changed to ,mr4 and ,mrs4 ,james's #ai decorated-dinner table changed to decorated dinner-table #cb ,foies-,gras changed to ,foie ,gras #cb ,chocolate ,pralinee changed to ,chocolate ,pralinee4 #db potato soup1 page #ajc changed to potato soup1 page #aje #dh #a lb changed to #a lb4 #gi tablepoonfuls of water changed to tablespoonfuls of water #hg seive changed to sieve #ajd clam broth1 page #ajj changed to clam broth1 page #ie #ajh ,footnote #ajh-a changed to #ajh-99 both in text and footnote #abe took-pick changed to tooth-pick #acj illustration page #cbd changed to illustration page #cbb #acj macedoine changed to macedoine #ade ,seasoning changed to ,seasoning4 #adh if requested1 changed to if requested4 #bjh size of the to-tomatoes changed to size of the tomatoes #bai pan with1 butter1 changed to pan with butter1 #bbc cupful of farina changed to cupful of farina4 #bbc cupfuls of milk changed to cupfuls of milk4 #bbf tablepoonfuls of butter changed to tablespoonfuls of butter #bgc ,,beurre ,,noir4 changed to ,,beurre ,,noir #cjh ,,pate changed to ,,pate #caf make an excellent1 changed to make an excellent #cdi cold color changed to gold color #cei lukewarm water1 changed to lukewarm water4 #cgh ,,macedoine changed to ,,macedoine #chd ,,macedoine changed to ,,macedoine #che ,,birds-,,nest changed to ,,bird',s-,,nest #cig 7,,no4 #a74 changed to 7,,no4 #a47 #daa page #cic74 changed to page #cic71 #dcf teaspoonful of vanilla changed to teaspoonful of vanilla4 #dde #b egg yolks changed to #b egg yolks4 #dgc citron 7sliced7 changed to citron 7sliced74 #ejf fruit is mixed in1 changed to fruit is mixed in4 #efe ,hard-bake1 #ebf4 changed to ,hardbake #ebf4 #efe ,flaming1 #dcc4 changed to ,flaming1 #dcb4 #efe ,calf'shead1 #age4 changed to ,calf's head1 #age4 #efe ,cucumbers1 #bjh4 changed to ,cucumbers1 #bah4 #efe ,boston brownbread changed to ,boston brown bread #efe ,braising1 #ga4 changed to ,braising1 #ga4 #eff ,little pound cakes changed to ,little pound-cakes #eff ,caramel1 #gh1 #cia1 #eab4 changed to ,caramel1 #gh1 #cia1 #ebb4 #eff ,filling1 ,no4 #a1 #djd1 changed to ,filling1 ,no4 #a1 #djd4 #efg ,leggs stuffed changed to ,legs stuffed #efg ,no4 #c4 #dhe4 changed to ,no4 #c1 #dhe4 #efg ,coffee1 #eea1 changed to ,coffee1 #eea4 #efg ,slaw1 #cih4 changed to ,slaw1 #cgh4 #efg ,toast1 #ccd4 moved to proper alphabetical posistion under ,crabs #efg ,no4 #b #big4 changed to ,no4 #b1 #big4 #efh ,rolls1 #cbc4 changed to ,rolls1 #cbh4 #efh ,with baking powder1 #agi4 changed to ,with baking powder1 #agj4 #efh ,eclairs1 #dgj4 changed to ,eclairs1 #dgc4 #efh ,nogg1 #eeg4 changed to ,nog1 #eeg4 #efh ,omelet1 #bfc4 changed to ,omelet1 #bfd4 #efh ,enterprize chopper changed to ,enterprise chopper #efh ,farinacious changed to ,farinaceous #efh ,figs1 #eia4 changed to ,figs1 #eca4 #efi ,no #b1 #bdg4 changed to ,no4 #b1 #bdg4 #efi ,plum pudding glace1 #eij4 changed to ,plum pudding glace1 #ejj4 #egj ,no4 #c1 #bbc4 changed to ,no4 #c1 #bbg4 #egj dinners1 #dg1 #ceb4 changed to dinners1 #dg1 #bdi4 #egj ,milk1 #ed1 #eh1 #fc4 changed to ,milk1 #ed1 #eh1 #chi4 #egj ,mustard sauce1 #bhe4 changed to ,mustard sauce1 #bhd4 #ega ,rechauffe changed to ,rechauffe #ega ,glace1 #ef changed to ,glace1 #eaf #ega ,orange cake1 #dfi4 changed to subentry ,cake1 #dfi4 #ega ,oxtail changed to ,ox-tail #egb ,plum sauce for meats1 #ddd4 changed to ,plum sauce for meats1 #edd4 #egb glace1 #eij4 changed to glace1 #ejj4 #egb ,pound cakes1 small1 #dgh1 changed to ,pound cakes1 small1 #dgh4 #egb ,puff paste changed to ,puff-paste #egb ,quails broiled1 #aib4 changed to ,quails broiled1 #aih4 #egb ,rechauffe changed to ,rechauffe #egb remarks about1 #cgc4 changed to remarks about1 #cgd4 #egc ,sauces for meats1 #cge4 changed to ,sauces for meats1 #bge4 #egc ,sauces1 #cge4 changed to ,sauces1 #bge4 #egc ,pudding sauces1 sweet1 #ddd4 moved to spot as subheading under ,sauces #egd corn1 #ajg4 changed to corn1 #ajf4 #egd ,spinach1 #aff4 changed to spinach1 #ajf4 #egd ,string beans1 #ajf4 changed to string beans1 #ajf4 #egd ,supreme of1 #dai4 changed to ,supreme of1 #dai4 #egd ,tart bands1 #djj4 changed to ,tart bands1 #dfj4 #egd ,five o'clock1 #ca4 changed to ,five o'clock1 #cc4 #egd ,general rules about1 #cab4 changed to ,general rules about1 #caa4 #egf ,vegetables1 #cc changed to ,vegetables1 #ec #egg pot au feu changed to pot-au-feu #egg skewers1 #aah4 changed to skewers1 #aag4 #egh fish-balls changed to fish balls 7#b times7 #egh ,a plain potpie changed to ,a plain pot-pie #egh ,dumplings with suet1 #aga changed to ,dumplings with suet1 #agj #egh ,veal scallop1 #aga changed to ,veal scallop1 #agb #ehj ,fish-balls changed to ,fish balls #ehj rechauffe changed to rechauffe #ehj boiled ,indian pudding1 #bci4 changed to boiled ,indian pudding1 #bdj4 #ehj baked ,indian pudding1 #bci4 changed to baked ,indian pudding1 #bdj4 #ehj frosting1 #bdd4 changed to frosting1 #bde4 #eha making1 #bib1 changed to making1 #bib4 #ehc ,raw-beef changed to ,raw beef #ehd ,orange salad1 #cha4 changed to ,orange salad1 #chb4 #ehd making desserts1 #chg4 changed to making desserts1 #chf4 #ehd ,utensils1 #chg4 changed to ,utensils1 #chf4 #ehd store closet changed to store-closet #ehd ,floating island1 #cif4 changed to ,floating island1 #cie4 #ehd ,chocolate custard1 #cif4 changed to ,chocolate custard1 #cie4 #ehe rice pudding ,no #a changed to rice pudding ,no4 #a #ehf ,meringue sauce1 #ddi4 changed to ,meringue sauce1 #ddh4 #ehg ,imperatrice changed to ,imperatrice #ehh fruit punch1 #ecd4 changed to fruit punch1 #ecc4 #ehh ,green tomato pickles1 #def4 changed to ,green tomato pickles1 #edf4 ,other inconsistencies ,the price for milk is given as #j4jb per cup on p4 #dg and #j4jd per cup on p4 #dh4 ,the price for sugar is given variously as #j4jb per cup 7p4 #dg1 #dh7 and #j4jd per cup 7p4 #dh7 ,irregularities in the alphabetization in the ,alphabetical ,index have been left as printed4 ,other changes ,footnotes were moved to follow the section or recipe they are associated with4 ,the ,,note that appeared at the bottom of p4 #cfd was moved to p4 #cff and placed at the end of the section on sandwiches4 ,the ,,note that appeared at the bottom of p4 #die was moved to follow the recipe for ,vanilla ,ice-,cream ,no4 #a4 ,the following words were inconsistently spelled or hyphenated3 air-bubbles _/ air bubbles air-cells _/ air cells apple-dumplings _/ apple dumplings apple-sauce _/ apple sauce baking-dish _/ baking dish baking-pan _/ baking pan baking-powder _/ baking powder baking-sheet _/ baking sheet baking-soda _/ baking soda baking-tin _/ baking tin bean-pot _/ bean pot biscuit-cutter _/ biscuit cutter boiling-point _/ boiling point boiling-hot _/ boiling hot border-mold _/ border mold bread-boxes _/ bread boxes bread-crumbs _/ bread crumbs bread-dough _/ bread dough breast-bone _/ breastbone broom-straw _/ broom straw ,,calf',s-,,head _/ ,,calf',s ,,head celery-tops _/ celery tops center-piece _/ centerpiece cheese-cloth _/ cheesecloth _/ cheese cloth close-fitting _/ close fitting cold-slaw _/ cold slaw corn-meal _/ cornmeal ,corn-meal _/ ,cornmeal corn-starch _/ cornstarch _/ corn starch ,corn-starch _/ ,cornstarch ,,corn-,,starch _/ ,,cornstarch cracker-crumbs _/ cracker crumbs cream-cake _/ cream cake croute-au-pot _/ croute au pot dessert-spoonful _/ dessertspoonful diamond-shaped _/ diamond shaped egg-dishes _/ egg dishes egg-white _/ egg white egg-yolks _/ egg yolks filter-paper _/ filter paper force-meat _/ forcemeat ,force-meat _/ ,forcemeat ,,force-,,meat _/ ,,forcemeat fruit-juices _/ fruit juices fruit-pulp _/ fruit pulp frying-basket _/ frying basket frying-pan _/ frying pan granite-ware _/ graniteware half-shell _/ half shell ,half-shell _/ ,half shell hard-ball _/ hard ball horse-radish _/ horseradish ,ice-,cream _/ ,ice ,cream ice-cream _/ ice cream ice-water _/ ice water layer-cake _/ layer cake layer-cakes _/ layer cakes lemon-juice _/ lemon juice lemon-peel _/ lemon peel lemon-rind _/ lemon rind lemon-zest _/ lemon zest lettuce-leaves _/ lettuce leaves measuring-cup _/ measuring cup medium-sized _/ medium sized meringue _/ meringue meringues _/ meringues mock-turtle _/ mock turtle muffin-ring _/ muffin ring onion-juice _/ onion juice orange-cake _/ orange cake orange-juice _/ orange juice orange-peel _/ orange peel oyster-liquor _/ oyster liquor pastry-bag _/ pastry bag pie-dish _/ pie dish pie-dishes _/ pie dishes potato-balls _/ potato balls potato-masher _/ potato masher potato-press _/ potato press potato-scoop _/ potato scoop pudding-dish _/ pudding dish pudding-mold _/ pudding mold puff-paste _/ puff paste ragout _/ ragout ,ragout _/ ,ragout ,,ragout _/ ,,ragout rice-pudding _/ rice pudding ring-mold _/ ring mold rolling-pin _/ rolling pin rose-leaves _/ rose leaves rose-petals _/ rose petals rose-water _/ rosewater sauce-boat _/ sauceboat saute-pan _/ saute pan scalding-point _/ scalding point serving-dish _/ serving dish serving-dishes _/ serving dishes simmering-point _/ simmering point smoking-hot _/ smoking hot soft-ball _/ soft ball soup-pot _/ soup pot sponge-cake _/ sponge cake sponge-cakes _/ sponge cakes starch-grains _/ starch grains stew-pan _/ stewpan _/ stew pan sweet-breads _/ sweetbreads stock-pot _/ stock pot string-beans _/ string beans sweet-oil _/ sweet oil tail-shells _/ tail shells ,tart-rings _/ ,tart rings terrapin-eggs _/ terrapin eggs timbale-mold _/ timbale mold timbale-molds _/ timbale molds tin-foil _/ tinfoil tooth-pick _/ toothpick water-cress _/ watercress water-ices _/ water ices wine-glass _/ wineglass ,woodenware _/ ,wooden ware yeast-cake _/ yeast cake yeast-cakes _/ yeast cakes