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7,,utf-#h71 ,lat9-#a & ,,ascii4 ,use !  
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set or file encod+4   ,if t doesn't "w1 
proce$ to3   --,9 ! ,lat9-#a v]sion1 oe 
is two lett]s1 b ,fr5* words l   tude h 
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display   prop]ly1 use3   --,!          
,,ascii-#g or rock-bottom v]sion4 ,quot$
 text 9 ,fr5* or   ,italian w n h its   
orig9al acc5ts1 b ,engli% text w   be   
ess5tially un*ang$4  ,footnotes t give  
translations ( quot$ mat]ial h be5 kept 
9 _! orig9al location4 ,o!r footnotes   
are ma9ly bibliographic2 ^! are gr\p$ at
 ! end ( ! text4  ,dates orig9ally pr9t$
 z ,,xviiime sicle & simil>1 )          

sup]script me1 h be5 simplifi$ to       
,x,v,i,i,ime4 ,"s illu/rations h be5    
%ift$ up or d[n to avoid int]rupt+      
p>agraphs4  ,_m illu/rations conta9     
orig9al text1 ei!r )9 ! picture itself  
or z a decorative caption bel[4 ,%ort   
captions are giv5 9 braces aft] ! mod]n 
7#aifg7 caption4 ,o!rs are collect$ at !
 end ( ! e-text4 ,spell+ & punctuation (
 ?is & o!r orig9al mat]ial is un*ang$4  
,unit$ ,/ates ,national ,museum ,bullet9
 #bej   ,contributions f   ,! ,museum ( 
,hi/ory & ,te*nology   ,pap] #fj1 ,pages
 #fe-ib     ,,orig9 ,,& ,,e>ly ,,hi/ory 
,,( ,,! ,,fa%ion ,,plate    ,john ,l    
,nev9son     ,smi?sonian ,press         
,wa%+ton1 ,d4,c4    #aifg               
,illu/ration3 ,figure #a4--;,,dress ,,( 
,,sigmund ,,von ,,h]b]/e9 = !   ,poli%  
,embassy 9 #aeag4 ,ov] 8 d\blet &       
bree*es he we>s a   brocade g[n l9$ )   
silk4 ,f ,gratae ,po/]itati1 #aefj4     
7,c\rtesy ( ,briti% ,museum1 ,london47  
,a ,,maximiliano ,,caes>e ,,ad          
,,sigismvndvm ,,poloniae ,,regem ,,et   

,,basilivm   ,,magnum ,,moscoviae       
,,pr9cipem ,,sic ,,ve/itvs ,,de/9atvs   
,,svm4       ,john ,l4 ,nev9son   ,orig9
 & ,e>ly ,hi/ory ,( ! ,fa%ion ,plate    
,a fa%ion plate is a co/ume portrait    
indicat+ a suitable /yle ( clo?+ t c be 
made or secur$4 ,fa%ion illu/ration     
began 9 ! late #ae? & e>ly #af? c5turies
 ) portrait pictures t made a p]son's   
id5tity kn[n n by 8 individual features 
b r by 8 dress4  ,?is pap]1 bas$ on a   
lecture giv5 9 ! fall ( #aifc at !      
,metropolitan ,museum1 ,new ,york1      
traces ! hi/ory ( ! fa%ion plate f its  
orig9s to its full developm5t 9 ! #ai?  
c5tury4 ,) ! improvem5ts 9              
transportation & communication1 increas$
 att5tion came to be paid to =eign      
fa%ions1 accessories1 & ev5 to          
hair/yles4 ,z ! read+ public grew1 s    
fa%ion consci\sness increas$1 &         
magaz9es1 :olly or p>tly devot$ to      
fa%ions1 fl\ri%$ & 7 widely read 9 !    
middle social classes2 ?is gr[? ( fa%ion
 p]iodicals also is briefly describ$ "h4

  ,,! ,,au?or3 ,john ,l4 ,nev9son1      
retir$1 0 =m]ly ) ,! ,victoria & ,alb]t 
,museum1 ,london4 ,he n[ devotes himself
 to full-"t rese>* on co/umes & _!      
hi/ory4     ,fa%ion may be def9$ z a    
g5]al /yle ( dress appropriate = a      
p>ticul> p]son to we> at a c]ta9 "t (   
day1 on a special occasion1 or = a      
specific purpose4  ,a fa%ion plate is a 
co/ume portrait1 t is to say1 a portrait
 n ( an individual b "o :i* %[s ! sort (
 clo!s t are be+ worn or t are likely to
 be worn4 ,x is a g5]aliz$ portrait1    
indicat+ ! /yle ( clo!s t a tailor1     
dressmak]1 or /ore c make or supply1 or 
%[+ h[ diff]5t mat]ials c be made up    
into clo!s4 ,a fa%ion plate is relat$ to
 ! we> ( its epo* & n to ! hi/ory (     
dress1 except ins(> z ! dress ( a       
hi/orical p]sonage may be imitat$ at a  
lat] date4 ,a fa%ion plate is reproduc$ 
me*anically1 ! woodcuts & engrav+s (    
e>li] dates be+ succe$$ by li?ographs & 
f9ally by ! v>i\s photographic processes
 ( our "t4  ,?is def9ition ( a fa%ion   

plate is broad] ?an ! "o adopt$ by ,mr4 
,vyvyan ,holl&1 :o has writt5 ! only    
sub/antial book on ! subject4#a ,mr4    
,holl& limit$ 8 /udy to h&-color$ fa%ion
 plates ( ! p]iod f #aggj to #ahii1     
possibly because ^! are mo/ 9 favor )   
collectors4 ,he omitt$ trade &          
adv]tisem5t plates1 believ+ !m to be    
prim>ily conc]n$ ) ! hi/ory ( dress4  ,!
 ma9 functions ( fa%ionable dress are to
 draw att5tion to ! we>]1 to def9e 8    
social position1 & to %[ :o he is & :at 
he is do+4 ,mode/y1 protection aga9/ !  
wea!r1 & appeal to ! opposite sex1 are1 
s f> z fa%ion is conc]n$1 subsidi>y     
functions4 ,int]e/ 9 fa%ionable dress   
goes back at lea/ to ! #af? c5tury1 z is
 evid5c$ by a popul> dialogue writt5 by 
,aless&ro ,piccolom9i1 a relative (     
,pope ,pius ,,ii1 :o subsequ5tly became 
coadjutor ,ar*bi%op ( ,si5a4#b          
,piccolom9i wrote "u ! pseudonym ,lo    
,/ordito1 & x is n cle> to :at ext5t !  
dialogue 0 sponsor$ by ! ,academy ( !   
,intronati1 an ari/ocratic1 lit]>y1 &   

social society ( :i* he 0 a memb]4 ,he  
/at$ t ! requirem5ts ( fa%ionable dress 
7 t x be sumptu\s 9 mat]ial1 ta/eful 9  
/yle1 & borne gracefully by ! we>]4     
,un=tunately = ! co/ume hi/orian1 !     
dialogue is n illu/rat$4  ,x has be5    
assum$ too readily p]haps t ! fa%ion    
plate dates f ! late #ah? c5tury1 b x is
 n difficult to demon/rate t x exi/$ 9  
all its ess5tials at e>li] p]iods1 ev5  
?\gh its hi/ory may n be cont9u\s4 ,!   
beg9n+ ( ! illu/ration ( fa%ions is f\nd
 9 portraits1 ! e>lie/ ( :i*1 ei!r      
sculptur$ or pa9t$1 develop$ f images ( 
k+s & important p]sonages4#c ,^! images1
 unlike ! imag9es ( ! ,romans1 made no  
attempt to portray ! features ( an      
individual1 b made 8 id5tity kn[n r by 8
 clo!s1 8 arms1 & o!r indications ( rank
 or position4 ,! developm5t ( ! /yliz$  
image into ! p]sonal portrait is well   
illu/rat$ 9 ! di>y ( ,jrg von ,eh+54#d  
,von ,eh+51 :o travel$ widely 9 ,europe 
dur+ ! ye>s prec$+ #adfj1 might be      
describ$ z a pr(essional j\/]1 :o took  

"p1 usually ) great success1 9 t\rnam5ts
 at ! v>i\s c\rts4 ,to illu/rate !      
acc\nt ( 8 exploits1 he _h portraits    
drawn & pa9t$ ( ! diff]5t pr9ces & k+s1 
portray+ ea* n ) 8 cr[n & scept] b ) !  
di/9ctive fa%ion ( 8 c\rt4 ,?is di>y--n 
pr9t$ until ! #ai? c5tury--0 circulat$ 9
 manuscript & %[s1 9 addition to !      
int]e/ 9 p]sonal portraits1 ! gr[+      
int]e/ 9 ! dress ( individuals4         
,illu/ration3 ,figure #b4--;,,dress ,,( 
,,sigmund ,,von ,,h]b]/e9 = !   second  
embassy to ,mosc[1 #aebf4 ,he we>s a    
wide-sleev$ g[n )   ! coll> & l9+ made (
 f9e sables4 ,8 fur-l9$ high cap is   ( 
:ite felt1 its brim di/+ui%$ by a b& (  
r$ clo?1 a m>k   ( nobility4 ,f ,gratae 
,po/]itati1 #aefj4 7,c\rtesy ( ,briti%  
,museum1 ,london47   ,,alt] ,a          
,,legatione ,a ,,f]d9&o ,,imp]atore     
,,tvnc ,,ar*idvce ,,missvs ,,ad         
,,moscvm1 ,,ille ,,me ,,tali ,,remisit  
,,ve/e    ,illu/ration3 ,figure         
#c4--;,,dress ,,( ,,sigmund ,,von       
,,h]b]/e9 = an   embassy to ! ,sultan1  

#aeda4 ,! %ort g[n 7,s*aube7 ( ,italian 
brocade figur$ ) black & gold has wide  
%\ld]s & padd$   upp] sleeves4 ,! coll>1
 l9+1 & =esleeves are ( simil>   fabric 
b ) a d>k violet gr\nd = contra/4 ,f    
,gratae   ,po/]itati1 #aefj4 7,c\rtesy (
 ,briti% ,museum1 ,london47   ,,ambo    
,,nos ,,oratores ,,tali ,,ve/e ,,ad     
,,tvrc>vm ,,imp]atorem ,,missi4  ,al?\gh
 ! e>li] pa9t]s ( ! ,italian ,r5aissance
 record$ ! decorative & (t5 exotic dress
 ( _! times1 _! portraits ( individuals 
consi/$ 9 ! ma9 ( m$allic heads & bu/s4 
,x 0 ! ,g]man portrait pa9t]s :o1 to a  
great] ext5t1 record$ & dissem9at$ ! k (
 fa%ions4 ,hans ,burgkmair pa9t$ himself
 on ! occasions ( 8 betro?al 9 #adig & 8
 m>riage 9 #adih1e & 9 ! #af? c5tury    
,hans ,holbe9 ! y\ng] not$ on 8 draw+s !
 dress mat]ial & colors ( ! clo!s worn  
by 8 sitt]s4#f ,ev5 a mu* less di/+ui%$ 
p]son1 ,mat?u ,s*w>tz1 a cl]k employ$ by
 ! bank+ firm ( ! ,fugg]s at ,augsburg1 
_h a book prep>$ %[+ ! clo!s he wore at 
:at he consid]$ to be ! mo/ important   

/ages ( 8 c>e]4#g  ,! fir/ p]son to h   
su* pictures pr9t$ 0 ,sigmund von       
,h]b]/e91 :o des]ves detail$            
consid]ation4#h ,9 8 diplomatic c>e]1   
:i* ext5d$ ov] #cj ye>s1 ,sigmund von   
,h]b]/e9 s]v$ ?ree ,emp]ors--,maximilian
 ,i1 ,*>les ,v1 & ,f]d9& ,i4 ,he 0 a    
/ud5t ( ,russian hi/ory & an out/&+     
l+ui/1 :o1 hav+ le>n$ ,w5di% z a boy1   
f\nd no difficulty ) ! ,poli% & ,russian
 languages4 ,:51 9 8 old age1 he pr9t$ 8
 memoirs1 he d\btlessly aim$ at giv+    
in=mation on h[ an ambassador %\ld      
conduct himself & to ?is end includ$    
illu/rations ( :at he actually _h worn1 
:i* 9 _m copies ( ! memoirs are c>efully
 color$ by h&4#i ,conc]n+ 8 j\rney 9    
#aeag 7fig4 #a71 he /ates t ,9 ^! robes 
,i 0 s5t on ! embassy to ,sigismund ,k+ 
( ,pol&1 no d\bt ! fa%ion = ! =mal dress
 ( an envoy4 ,on 8 fir/ embassy to !    
,gr& ,duke ( ,mosc[ 9 #aeag he 0 pres5t$
 ) a ,russian fur-l9$ robe1 b on 8      
second embassy 9 #aebf1 he receiv$ a    
great] di/9ction 7fig4 #b73 ,hav+ be5   

s5t a second "t by ! ,emp]or ,f]d9& !n  
,ar*duke to ,mosc[1 ! ,gr& ,duke be/[$  
^u me ^! robes4 ,?is dress 0 f> m       
sumptu\s ?an ! =mal black velvet g[n :i*
 he normally wore = embassies to !      
,spani% & o!r c\rts4  ,by #aeda !re 0 a 
*ange 9 fa%ion 7fig4 #c74 ,von ,h]b]/e9 
wrote3 ,we two orators 7 s5t 9 ?is dress
 to ! ,turki% ,emp]or1 & x 0 9 ?is dress
 t von ,h]b]/e91 suff]+ p]haps f        
ar?ritis1 compla9$ ( hav+ great         
difficulty 9 b[+ l[ en\gh to kiss ! h& (
 ! seat$ ,sultan4 ,! imp]ial fa%ion (   
bree*es & hose might h seem$ indelicate 
to ,suleiman ! ,magnificant1 :o gave !  
ambassadors o!r robes 7fig4 #d73 ,!     
,emp]or ( ! ,turks pres5t$ u also ) ^!  
robes4 ,! long-g[n$ co/ume %[n "h %\ld h
 be5 complet$ by a turban1 b von        
,h]b]/e9 evid5tly w\ld n all[ himself to
 be depict$ 9 ?is4    ,illu/ration3     
,figure #d4--,,sigmund ,,von ,,h]b]/e9  
,,9 ,,robes pres5t$   to ambassadors by 
! ,sultan1 #aeda4 ,! ,turki% g[n ( yell[
 silk   figur$ ) black1 ) "s ( !        

m$allions outl9$ 9 blue1   has long     
sleeves t hide ! h&s4 ,! inn] robe is ( 
r$ silk   figur$ ) yell[ & ga!r$ ) a    
blue sa%4 ,f ,gratae   ,po/]itati1      
#aefj4 7,c\rtesy ( ,briti% ,museum1     
,london47   ,,tvrc>vm ,,imp]ator ,,nos  
,,qvoqve ,,ve/ibvs ,,donavit4  ,von     
,h]b]/e9 seems to h kept 8 robes 9 8    
palace 9 ,vi5na1 along ) 8 collection ( 
,russian & ori5tal weapons1 illu/rat$ 9 
8 hi/ory ( ,russia3#aj ^!1 & /uff$      
specim5s ( ,auro*s1 !n almo/ ext9ct1 &  
,european bison1 =m$ ! fir/ museum (    
co/ume & natural hi/ory on record4  ,) !
 developm5t ( c]emonial1 "s ( ! pr9cely 
c\rts ( ,g]many _h illu/rations prep>$ (
 :at %\ld be worn by ! (ficials (       
diff]5t grades 7fig4 #e74 ,sev]al copies
 ( ea* ( ^! ,h(kleid]b*]--books giv+    
rules or /&>ds = correct c\rt dress--7  
no d\bt issu$1 b none seems to h be5    
pr9t$ = ! g5]al in=mation ( ! public4 ,!
 fir/ pr9t$ book on tailor+1 by ,juan de
 ,alcega1 0 publi%$ 9 #aehh & includes  
diagrams %[+ h[ to cut c]emonial robes f

 ! roll ( clo?1#aa b !re are no         
illu/rations ( :at ! complet$ g>m5ts    
%\ld look l4  ,! hi/ory ( fa%ion plates1
 !re=e1 is to be foll[$ 9 less          
specializ$ works4 ,9 ! #af? c5tury1 ) ! 
improvem5t ( communications & !         
cont9uation ( voyages ( discov]y1 great 
int]e/ develop$ 9 ! co/ume & way ( life 
( o!r nations4 ,x is 9 ?is connection t 
! ^w fa%ion 0 fir/ us$ 9 its mod]n s5se4
 ,9 an address to ,k+ ,h5ry ,,viii1 a   
petition] 9 #aebi1 deplor+ ! s9fulness (
 ! p ( ,engl&1 wrote3#ab    ,!          
pryncypall cause ( s9 is _! co/ly       
app>ell & specially   _! manyfolde &    
div]s *anges ( fas%yons :i* ! m5 &      
specially ! wom5 mu/ we>e uppon bo? h$de
 & bodye3 sometyme   cappe1 sometyme    
hoode1 n[ ! ,fr5* fas%yon n[ ! ,spany%e 
fas%yon & !n ! ,italyan fas%yon & !     
,myll5 ,milan   fas%yon1 s t !re is noo 
ende ( consum+e (   sub/ance 4 4 4 4    
,illu/ration3 ,figure #e4--,,leaf ,,f ,a
 ,,book ( c\rt co/umes %[+   back &     
front view ( a g5tleman's dress4 ,g]man1

 second half (   ! #af? c5tury4         
7,c\rtesy ( ,rijksmuseum1 ,am/]dam47    
,=eign fa%ions 7 be+ imitat$ by ,engli% 
ladies4 ,inv5tories#ac 9 ! ,public      
,record ,(fice 9 ,london %[ t ! ,engli% 
que5s _h robes cut 9 ,spani%1 ,milanese1
 or ,fr5* /yles4 ,z = m51 x 0 said t !y 
c\ld n make up _! m9ds :at to we>1 & a  
popul> c>icature %[s an ,engli%man /&+  
nak$ ) a roll ( clo? "u 8 arm & a pair (
 tailor's %e>s 9 8 h&1 say+3#ad    ,i am
 an ,engli% man1 & nak$ ,i /& "h1       
,musyng 9 my mynde :at raim5t ,i %al 71 
,= n[ ,i wyll 7 ?ys1 & n[ ,i wyll 7 t2  
,n[ ,i wyll 7 ,i _c tel :at4  ,london1  
h[ev]1 0 n a fa%ion c5t]1 & ! fir/ book 
on ! fa%ions ( nations 0 pr9t$ 9 ,p>is 9
 #aefb4ae ,9 8 introduction to ! book   
,franois ,des]pz moraliz$3#af    4 4 4  
noz vieux pr$ecesseurs 4 4 4 ont e/ plus
 curieux de   sumptueuse ve/ure que de  
r>e v]tu 4 4 4 c> t\t a9si qu'on        
cognoi/ le ,moyne au froc1 le ,fol au   
*ap]on1  le ,soldat aux   armes1 a9si se
 cognoi/ l'homme sage  l'habit non      

excessif4      ,footnote #af3           
,translat$1 ?is reads3 4 4 4 our        
pr$ecessors (     old 4 4 4 7 m c>eful  
ab\t sumptu\s dress ?an r>e virtue     4
 4 4 = z ! monk 0 recogniz$ by 8 frock1 
! je/] by     8 cap1 & ! soldi] by 8    
arms1 s ! wise man 0 kn[n by     8      
mod]ate habit4    ,illu/ration3 ,figure 
#f4--,,portrait ( an ,engli% lady4 ,f   
,recueil   de la div]sit des habits1    
#aefg ed4 7,c\rtesy ( ,victoria         
,alb]t ,museum1 ,london47 caption at end
  ,ackn[l$gm5ts 7 made to ! late ,capta9
 ,rob]val & to an unnam$ ,portuguese1 b 
x is n kn[n :i* ( !m contribut$ !       
portrait ( ! ,engli% lady 7fig4 #f74    
,al?\gh %e is said to be di/+ui%able by 
h] squ>e bonnet1 x is h>d to f9d ! /yle 
p>allel$ 9 any o!r picture4 ,! huge     
sla%es on ! bodice ( h] g[n surely are  
exagg]at$1 z is ! smallness ( ! muff :i*
 hangs by a cord f h] wai/4 ,on ! o!r   
h&1 ,joris ,hoefnagel copi$ & us$ !     
portrait z "o ( a gr\p ( citiz5s /&+ 9 !
 =egr\nd ( ,hog5b]g's #aegd plan (      

,london1#ag s ! figure mu/ h be5 reg>d$ 
z approximately accurate4               
,illu/ration3 ,figure #g4--;,,dress ,,( 
,a ,,fr5* ,,woman 7front view7 )   a    
tight-sleev$ bodice ?r\gh ! cuts ( :i* !
 l9+ is drawn   out 9 puffs4 ,f ,omnium 
g5tium habitus 4 4 4 1 #aefc ed4        
7,c\rtesy ( ,victoria  ,alb]t ,museum1  
,london47  ,mu* m conv9c+ z evid5ce (   
fa%ions are ! et*+s by ,a5eas ,vico t   
appe> 9 ,b]telli's book on ! co/umes ( !
 peoples1 publi%$ 9 ,v5ice 9 #aefc4ah ,!
 ,fr5* woman %[n 9 figure #g cle>ly     
illu/rates a fa%ion :i* is famili> en\gh
 9 portraits4 ,( p>ticul> int]e/ is !   
back view 7fig4 #h7 %[+ h] petticoat4   
,?is type ( petticoat 0 popul> 9 ,spa9 9
 ! late #ae? c5tury1#ai b 0 n adopt$ 9  
,france1 ,italy1 & ,engl& until ! second
 half ( ! #af? c5tury4    ,illu/ration3 
,figure #h4--;,,dress ,,( ,a ,,fr5*     
,,woman 7back view7   %[+ ! mann] 9 :i* 
! bodice 0 lac$ & ! hood fell   at !    
back4 ,! skirt is rais$1 reveal+ !      
f>?+ale   petticoat ) ! roll at its hem 

:i* conta9$ cane /iff5+   7v]dugo74 ,f  
,omnium g5tium habitus 4 4 4 1 #aefc ed4
   7,c\rtesy ( ,victoria  ,alb]t        
,museum1 ,london47    ,illu/ration3     
,figure #i4--;,,dress ,,( ,a            
,,noblewoman ( ,mantua4 ,f   ,vecellio1 
,de gli habiti anti*i e mod]ni1 #aeij4  
7,c\rtesy (   ,victoria  ,alb]t ,museum1
 ,london47   ,,donzella ,,nobile        
,,ornata4  ,! next developm5t 9 ! hi/ory
 ( ! fa%ion plate is f\nd 9 ! co/ume    
books by ,ces>e ,vecellio1 publi%$ 9    
,v5ice 9 #aeij & #aeih4bj ,vecellio1 a  
memb] ( ! same family z ,titian1 %[$ !  
co/ume ( ! diff]5t ranks ( society 9 !  
v>i\s ,italian cities & /ates1 9 ! o!r  
c\ntries ( ,europe1 & inde$ 9 ! kn[n _w2
 he also depict$ a numb] ( antique &    
old-fa%ion$ dresses4 ,un=tunately1 !    
illu/rations 7fig4 #i7 by ,*ri/oph      
,krieg]1 ^: "n 0 ,italianiz$ z ,gu]ra1  
are n z good z ,vico's1 & ,krieg] di$   
be=e ! s]ies 0 complete4 ,b ,vecellio   
took great pa9s to secure accurate &    
up-to-date in=mation ab\t fa%ions1 & he 

receiv$ lett]s & draw+s f 8 fri5ds 9    
v>i\s cities ( ,italy4 ,ma/] ,erasmo    
,falte ( ,p>ma s5t him p>ticul>s ( !    
dress ( ! ,du*ess ( ,p>ma1 toge!r ) a   
sket* by a good local pa9t]1 :i*        
,vecellio describes & adds3#ba    ,sotto
 co/umano il v]ducato1 ov]o faldiglia1  
qual ti5 con arte la   sottana l>ga     
modo di campana1 *e torna molto commodo 
al   cam9>e1  danz>e3  hora si co/umano 
p] tutta l',italia que/a   sopra detta  
faldiglia4      ,footnote #ba3          
,translat$1 ?is reads3 ,und]nea?1 !     
habit (     ! ladies :o imitate !       
,du*ess is to we> ! f>?+ale or          
pleat$ frock1 :i* skillfully holds !    
petticoat out wide l     a bell4 ,?is   
fa%ion is extremely conv5i5t = walk+ or 
danc+1 & n[adays1 ladies ?r\gh\t all    
,italy we> ?is     pleat$ frock m5tion$ 
above4 7#aeij ed41 folio #ahg4;a47      
,?us1 ! bell-%ap$ f>?+ale 7fig4 #h7 _h  
by #aeij become ! g5]al we> ( ! upp]    
classes 9 ,italy1 z x 0 already 9 ,spa91
 ,france1 & ,engl&4  ,( ev5 great]      

int]e/ is ! evid5ce ( ,vecellio's       
relations ) a fa%ion h\se 9 ,v5ice4 ,9 8
 g5]al acc\nt ( ! h\s$resses ( ! noble  
ladies ( 8 "t1 he m5tions ! ri* mod]n   
mat]ials & especially silk brocades (   
f\r & ev5 ( six colors1 admirably       
wov53#bb    ,di que/e op]e si belle     
/ato 9 ,v5etia auttore ,m4 ,b>?olomeo   
,bontempele dal ,calice1 il quale alle  
volte con le mo/re1 *' egli   fa di     
que/i drappi de' quali lui  /ato        
inv5tore1 mo/ra la   gr&ezza dell'+egno 
suo1 la quale  accompagnata da una      
incomp>abile lib]alit1 e bont1 p] il*e  
molto amato dalla   nobilt ,v5etiana1   
da molti ,pr9cipi d',italia  9 specie   
dal   ,s]5issimo ,duca di ,mantova4     
,nella sua buttiga dove molti ,signori e
   ,pr9cipi m&ano a =nirsi1  f9o al     
s]raglio del ,gran ,turco1 si   veggono 
broccati  op]a di tutte le sorte d'oro e
 di arg5to4      ,footnote #bb3         
,translat$1 ?is reads3 ,! orig9ator ( ^!
     beautiful fabrics 9 ,v5ice is ,ma/]
 ,b>?olomew ,bontempele at     ! sign ( 

! ',*alice4' ,f "t to "t at exhibitions 
he     makes ( ^! mat]ials he has       
creat$1 he %[s ! greatness (     8      
intellect1 :i* is accompani$ by an      
incomp>able g5]osity     & k9dness = :i*
 he is greatly lov$ by ! ,v5etian       
nobility1 by _m pr9ces ( ,italy1 & 9    
p>ticul> by 8     ,s]5e ,highness !     
,duke ( ,mantua4 ,9 8 /ore1 to :i* _m   
g5tlem5 & pr9ces s5d ord]s1 ev5 !       
,s]aglio ( ! ,gr&     ,turk1 are to be  
se5 brocades work$ 9 all mann]s ( gold &
     silv]4 7#aeij ed41 folio #aci47  ,x
 may seem /range t )9 #bj ye>s ( !      
,battle ( ,lepanto 7#aega7 ,v5etian     
fabrics 7 export$ f ,bontempele's sign (
 ,! ,*alice to ,con/ant9ople to compete 
) ! not$ velvets ( ,brusa4 ,aft]        
describ+ ! clo!s ( ! be/ dress$ m]*ants1
 ,vecellio does n hesitate to m5tion 8  
fri5ds ,ma/] ,paolo1 spice m]*ant &     
v5dor ( ! celebrat$ ,!riakon 7kn[n 9    
,engl& z ,v5ice treacle71 ( ! sign ( ,! 
,o/ri*1 & ,b]nad9o ,pillotto1 sell] (   
pictures & o!r ornam5ts4                

,illu/ration3 ,figure #aj4--;,,fa%ion   
,,plate depict+ fanciful hair   /yle ( a
 lady f ,f]r>a1 by ,*ri/oph ,krieg]4 ,f 
,v>ie   acconciature di te/e1 ca4 #aeij4
 7,c\rtesy ( ,victoria  ,alb]t          
,museum1 ,london47   ,,f]>ese _/        
,,avdace  ,at ?is "t !re 7 also woodcuts
 illu/rat+ hair/yles4 ,! exact date (   
,*ri/oph ,krieg]'s ,v>ie ,acconciature  
di ,te/e 7fig4 #aj7 is n kn[n4 ,:ile    
,vecellio _h rem>k$ t ! ,v5etian ladies 
7 imitat+ ! goddess ,diana & surm\nt+ _!
 tresses ) two little curls l horns1    
,krieg] made illu/rations t 7 ev5 m     
fanciful4 ,ea* lady be>s ! "n ( a city &
 a di/+ui%+ quality or temp]am5t1 b !re 
is no m reason to connect ! /yles )     
local fa%ions ?an to believe t ! ladies 
( ,f]r>a 7 bold or ^? ( ,todi caprici\s4
    ,illu/ration3 ,figure               
#aa4--;,,c\rti] ,,foll[+ ,,! ,,edict (  
#afcc4 ,he   has laid aside 8 lace coll>
 & f9e clo!s4 ,by ,abraham ,bosse1      
#afcc4 7,c\rtesy ( ,museum ( ,f9e ,arts1
 ,bo/on47   ,le ,c\rtisan suiuant       

,l',edict de l'annee #afcc   additional 
caption at end    ,illu/ration3 ,figure 
#ab4--,,la ,,gal]ie ,,du ,,palais4 ,!   
fa%ionable   cr[d ?rongs ! mill9]s'     
c\nt]s 9 ! ,palais ,royal4 ,by          
,abraham ,bosse1 #afcf4 7,c\rtesy (     
,museum ( ,f9e ,arts1 ,bo/on47   caption
 at end  ,inde$1 ?is s]ies w\ld n be    
consid]$ 9 connection ) fa%ion plates 7 
x n = a conv]sation 9 ,b5 ,jonson's     
,cyn?ia's ,revels1 fir/ act$ 9 #afjj by 
! ,*ildr5 ( ! ,que5's ,*apel4 ,philautia
 addresses h] fri5d ,phanta/e 7,act #b1 
sc5e #a73    ,philautia3 4 4 4 ,:at1 h y
 *ang$ y\r head-tire8    ,phanta/e3     
,yes1 fai?1 ! o!r 0 ne> ! common1 x _h  
no   extraord9>y grace2 besides1 ,i _h  
worn x almo/ a day1 9 good   tro?4      
,philautia3 ,i'll be sworn1 ?is is mo/  
excell5t = ! device1 &   r>e2 'tis aft] 
! ,italian pr9t we look$ on t'o!r night4
  ,?is c]ta9ly sugge/s t "o ( ! little  
eyases1 p]haps ev5 ,na?aniel ,field or  
,sala?iel ,pavy1 0 we>+ a fanta/ic wig  
design$ aft] "o ( ! ,krieg] woodcuts4   

,9 ! e>ly #ag? c5tury !re 0 no?+ publi%$
 9 nor!rn ,europe t 0 closely relat$ to 
! fa%ion trade4 ,!re are engrav+s (     
co/ume figures su* z ! ,sieb5 ,edelleute
 v]s*i$5] ,nation by ,willem ,buytewe*  
7,am/]dam1 ca4 #afad71 :i* are *>m+ly   
drawn b1 z to co/ume1 idealiz$ &        
exagg]at$4#bc ,! same criticism applies 
to ! lat] s]ies by ,j4 de ,/4 ,igny1    
especially 9 ,le ,j>d9 de la ,noblesse1 
& to ,jacques ,callot's ,la             
,noblesse1#bd :i* depict milit>y & c\rt 
dress ) less c>icature ?an mo/ ( ?is    
ma/]'s "w4 ,among ! engrav+s ( ,abraham 
,bosse1 !re is a s]ies 7fig4 #aa7 relat+
 to ! sumptu>y law ( #afcc by :i* ,l\is 
,,xiii1 at ! in/igation ( ,c>d9al       
,ri*elieu1 tri$ to curb ! extravagance &
 simplify ! dress ( ! ladies & g5tlem5 (
 8 c\rt4 ,?is s]ies is wor? m5tion+ z a 
record ( ! dress at ?is p]iod1 b nei!r  
^! engrav+s nor ! bett] kn[n ,gal]ie du 
,palais 7fig4 #ab7 are1 /rictly speak+1 
fa%ion plates :i* provide in=mation =   
dressmak]s or we>]s ( clo!s4#be  ,9     

,engl&1 ! engrav+s 7 ( a r diff]5t /yle4
 ,dut* pr9ts ( allegorical subjects 7 9 
vogue1 & !re are innum]able sets ( pr9ts
 ( ! sev5 ,ages ( mank9d1 ! five s5ses1 
! f\r seasons1 ! cont95ts1 & ! lib]al   
arts1 typifi$ by real & imag9>y figures 
9 all /yles ( dress4 ,jean ,b>r's figure
 ,see+ 7fig4 #ac71 ) h] look+ glass &   
p]spective glass1 accompani$ by !       
f>sight$ eagle1 is illu/rat$ "h ma9ly   
because ( its explanatory quatra9       
m5tion+ fa%ions4#bf  ,n until ! e>ly    
#afdjs c reliable engrav+s ( ,engli%    
fa%ions be f\nd4 ,mo/ ( ,w5ceslas       
,holl>'s #afci s]ies1 ,ornatus          
,muliebris ,anglicanus1 or1 ! sev]all   
habits ( ,engli% wom5 f ! ,nobilitie to 
! ,c\ntry woman1 z !y are 9 ^! times1 is
 slightly suspect z be+ imag9>y or at   
be/ idealiz$1 ?\gh ! lady 9 wait+       
7,holl>'s no4 #bc7 & ! c\ntry woman     
7,holl>'s no4 #bf7 walk+ on h] iron-r+  
patt5s may be portraits4 ,holl>'s       
,!atrum ,muli]um or ,aula ,v5]is ( #afdd
 has a mu* /rong] claim to repres5t !   

fa%ions ( ,london1 al?\gh "s ( !        
,european wom5 may be 9 ! traditional   
clo!s ( _! cities & /ates4 ,! full-l5g? 
female figures ( ! seasons are really   
co/ume portraits set aga9/ ,london      
backgr\nds#bg 7fig4 #ad71 &1 al?\gh *>m+
 9 !mselves1 !y are n true fa%ion       
plates1 :ile ^? ( ! s]ies ( wom5's heads
 9 circles1 :i* are n copi$ f o!r "w1   
are simply portraits#bh ( ladies :om    
,holl> actually knew 9 ,london4 ,not)/&+
 8 engrav+s ( muffs1#bi x is mo/        
unlikely t ,holl> _h any connection )   
ei!r a fa%ion h\se or a mill9]'s %op 9  
,london4    ,illu/ration3 ,figure       
#ac4--,,see+1 f a set ( ! ,five ,s5ses4 
,engrav+ by ,jean ,b>r1 ca4 #afbe4      
7,c\rtesy ( ,national ,portrait         
,gall]y1 ,london47 caption at end  ,dur+
 ! ,commonweal? p]iod 7#afdh-fj7        
,holl>'s "w depict+ co/umes fad$ out1 b 
! di>i/ ,john ,evelyn 0 writ+ a little  
book1 ,tyrannus1 or ! ,mode1 :i* 0      
publi%$ 9 #affa4cj ,9 x he m5tions a    
,fr5* woman 9 ,london dur+ ! tr\bles1 ^:

 cu/om]s torm5t$ h] ) inquiries ab\t    
,fr5* fa%ions to su* an ext5t t %e us$  
to devise new ,fancies out ( h] own     
,head1 :i* 7 nev] worn 9 ,france4 ,mo/  
likely %e did n di/ribute fa%ion plates 
b display$ actual g>m5ts or m9iature    
models1 p]haps m\nt$ z dolls 7babies71 z
 examples ( new fa%ions4                
,illu/ration3 ,figure #ad4--,,w9t]4 ,!  
lady we>s a hood & mask1   toge!r )     
furs4 ,%e is walk+ 9 ,cornhill1 ,london4
 ,engrav+ by   ,w5celas ,holl>1 #afdc   
7,p>!y no4 #fji74 7,c\rtesy ( ,briti%   
,museum1 ,london47 caption at end  ,9 ! 
,tyrannus1 ,evelyn n only t\*$ on !     
hi/ory & psy*ology ( fa%ion b also w5t z
 f> z to recomm5d a re=m$ dress = m51   
includ+ ! ,p]sian ve/ & sa% :i* 0 to be 
reflect$ to a c]ta9 ext5t 9 ! fa%ions ( 
! mid-#affjs4 ,s9ce he did n illu/rate 8
 !ory1 !re has always be5 "s dispute z  
to :at ! ,p]sian dress actually 01#ca b 
9 any case ! fa%ion did n la/4 ,on !    
,re/oration ( ! mon>*y 9 #affj1 ,*>les  
,,ii1 return+ to ,engl& f ,holl&1 reta9$

 ,dut* fa%ions = a :ile 7fig4 #ae74 ,b1 
by #afgj1 ,engli% m5's dress approximat$
 ! ,fr5* 9 /yle1 al?\gh n 9 sumptuosity4
  ,9 ! second half ( ! #ag? c5tury !    
att5tion ( ,europe 0 focus$ on ! c\rt ( 
,l\is ,,xiv & ! ,fr5* /yle ( dress1     
especially = m51 pr$om9at$4 ,9 p>ticul>1
 ! coat 7ju/aucorps71 :i* evolv$ f !    
cassock1 an out] g>m5t1 began to be worn
 regul>ly ov] ! d\blet1 :i* by ?is "t 0 
already mu* r$uc$ 9 size yet de/9$ to   
survive z ! wai/coat 7ve/e74 ,?is fa%ion
 spread fairly rapidly ?r\gh ,europe--9 
,engl&1 z has be5 m5tion$1 x 0 dom9ant  
by #afgj--;b x is n cle> h[4 ,! position
 ( ,france1 h[ev]1 0 /at$ 9 a fa%ion    
article 9 ! ,m]cure ,galant 9 #afgc     
7vol4 #c73cb    4 4 4 ri5 ne plait      
davantage que les ,modes nes en ,france 
4 4 4 4   ,c'e/ p\rquoi dans t\tes les  
,prov9ces du ,monde on fait v5ir de     
,france quantit de *oses qui reg>d5t    
l'habillem5t encor qu'on ne   s'habille 
pas t\t-a-fait  la ,franoise 4 4 4 4    
,footnote #cb3 ,translat$1 ?is reads3 4 

4 4 no?+ is m     pleas+ ?an ! /yles    
born 9 ,france 4 4 4 4 ,?is is :y mu*   
relat+ to dress is import$ f ,france    
into all ! prov9ces     ( ! _w1 ?\gh !  
f9al dress is n exactly ,fr5*4          
,illu/ration3 ,figure #ae4--,,man 9     
petticoat bree*es 7,rh9egraves74   ,?is 
illu/ration is n a fa%ion plate b an    
engrav+ t 0   (t5 repr9t$ 9 patt]n books
 us$ by tea*]s & /ud5ts (   figure      
draw+4 ,f a draw+ book by ,s4 le ,cl]c1 
ca4 #affe4   7,au?or's collection47     
,illu/ration3 ,figure #af4--;,,c\rti]   
,,9 ,,full ,,dress = ! w9t]   #afgg-gh  
we>+ a flame-color$ embroid]$ clo? cloak
 ov] a gray   silk coat & mat*+         
wai/coat4 ,?is co/ume is almo/ z gr& z  
! blue privilege ju/aucorps  brevet :i*1
 aft] #affe1 0   occasionally grant$ to 
o!rs ?an pr9ces ( royal blood4 ,issu$   
) ! ,m]cure ,galant1 #afgh4 7,au?or's   
collection47   caption at end           
,illu/ration3 ,figure #ag4--,,lady      
,,fitt$ ,,out = ! w9t] ( #afgg-gh   we>s
 a dress ( black velvet ) diamond knots 

& an   erm9e-bord]$ skirt4 ,%e c>ries a 
color$ muff4 ,issu$ ) !   ,m]cure       
,galant1 #afgh4 7,au?or's collection47  
caption at end  ,! ,m]cure ,galant1     
/rangely neglect$ by co/ume hi/orians1  
occupies a mo/ important place 9 !      
hi/ory ( fa%ion lit]ature1 s9ce x is !  
fir/ & = almo/ a c5tury ! only p]iodical
 to conta9 regul> articles on           
contempor>y fa%ion4 ,! p]son responsible
 = edit+ & inde$ = writ+ ^! articles 0  
,jean ,donneau de ,vis 7#afdj-agaj71 an 
unsuccessful dramati/1 rival ( ,molire1 
:om he s>ca/ically attack$ sev]al times 
9 pr9t4 ,! /ory ( 8 j\rnali/ic v5ture is
 n at all easy to unravel1#cc s9ce !    
octavo publications 7,*ez ,claude ,b>b91
 au ,palais7 7 pirat$ almo/ imm$iately1 
& impressions--all t ,i h se5 are       
duodecimos--appe>$ 9 ,p>is & ,am/]dam   
7,suivant la ,copie imprime  ,p>is74 ,a 
s+le numb] ( an ,engli% translation1 !  
,m]cury ,gallant1 is 9 ! ,briti%        
,museum4    ,illu/ration3 ,figure       
#ah4--,,outdoor ,,w9t] ,,dress = m5 is  

/rongly   influ5c$ by milit>y fa%ions4  
,an enorm\s fr+$ baldrick1 ti$   by a   
milit>y sc>f1 supports ! dim9utive dress
 sword4 ,wigs &   hats 7 comp>atively   
small = ! w9t] #afgg-gh4 ,issu$ )   !   
,m]cure ,galant1 #afgh4 7,au?or's       
collection47 caption at end  ,! ,m]cure 
,galant 0 publi%$ sporadically f #afgb  
?r\gh #afgd1 ) six numb]s 9 all4 ,9     
#afgg1 x obta9$ a privilege &1 ) a      
d$ication to ! ,dauph91 took a new lease
 on life "u ! title ,le n\veau ,m]cure  
,galant4 ,!reaft]1 x fl\ri%$ = "s ye>s2 
! ,janu>y-,m>* numb] = #afgg 0 foll[$ by
 mon?ly p>ts1 & on ,may #ae1 #afgh1 !   
fir/ supplem5t>y 7,extraord9aire7 numb] 
0 publi%$1 conta9+ an article on fa%ions
 illu/rat$ ) fa%ion plates4#cd ,!       
magaz9e 0 address$ to ! ladies1 &1 9    
addition to a modicum ( news & w>       
reports1 x conta9$ gossip1 poetry1      
riddles1 songs ) _! music1 &            
correspond5ce ) read]s1 "s no d\bt      
fictiti\s4 ,x des]ves full cr$it = be+ !
 fir/ mod]n-/yle magaz9e4               

,illu/ration3 ,figure #ai4--,,lady ,,9  
,,in=mal w9t] attire walks to   h] coa* 
we>+ a fl[]$ gold-brocad$ g[n :i* has   
be5   caught back to %[ h] embroid]$    
petticoat bord]$ ) erm9e4   ,%e we>s a  
black coif s t h] hair w n be dis>rang$4
   ,issu$ ) ! ,m]cure ,galant1 #afgh4   
7,au?or's collection47   caption at end 
,illu/ration3 ,figure #bj4--;,,int]ior  
,,( ,a ,,p>isian ,,mill9]',s ,,%op4     
,on display are accessories to m5's     
fa%ionable co/ume--bree*es1   sc>ves1   
gloves1 & wigs4 ,detail f an engrav+ by 
,j4 ,lepautre   aft] ,j4 ,bra94         
,re5grav$ f a small pr9t 9 !            
,extraord9aire issue ( ! ,m]cure        
,galant1 ,m>* #afgh4   7,au?or's        
collection47  ,! fa%ions = ! w9t]       
#afgg-gh 7figs4 #af-ai7 may be foll[$ 9 
! pages ( ! ,m]cure ,galant1 b1 s9ce ^! 
f\r fa%ion plates 7 also di/ribut$      
sep>ately1 _! connection ) x has (t5 be5
 ov]look$4 ,! same is true ( ! l>ge     
engrav+ ( ! int]ior ( a mill9]'s %op    
7fig4 #bj71 ! items 9 :i* 7 numb]$ &    

describ$ 9 ! text ( ! ,m]cure ,galant4  
,donneau de ,vis dep5d$ on trade support
 & took ! opportunity to m5tion names   
:]ev] he c\ld4 ,! new fabrics display$  
bel[ ! %elves are di/+ui%$ by lett]s2 ! 
"o on ! "r 7lett] ,m71 = example1 is an 
,italian yell[ sat9 brocad$ ) :ite &    
violet4 ,o!r small figur$ fabrics1 he   
wrote1 might be obta9$ away f ! ,palais 
*ez le ,sieur ,b>oy1 au ,clotre ,sa9t   
,opportune1 & ribbons might be f\nd f   
,sieur le ,gras 9 ! ,palais itself4 ,!  
editor de ,vis gives ?anks to ,m4 ,bra9 
7#afcg-agaa71 designateur ord9aire du   
,cab9et du ,roy1 & to ,m4 ,lepautre     
7#afah-hb7 = engrav+ ! plates4          
,illu/ration3 ,figure #ba4--,,summ]     
,,dress ( a g5tleman4 ,he we>s a   l95  
wai/coat g>ni%$ ) lace1 & a long wig    
7cf4 fig4 #ah74   ,f ! ,extraord9aire ( 
! ,m]cure ,galant1 ,june #afgh4         
7,au?or's collection47 caption at end   
,! summ] fa%ions = #afgh 7 illu/rat$ 9 !
 next ,extraord9aire numb] publi%$ on   
,july #bj & repres5t$ by a g5tleman     

7fig4 #ba7 & 8 lady 7fig4 #bb74 ,details
 ( ^! plates are poor1 &1 al?\gh !y are 
tak5 f ! ,dut* edition1 ! orig9al       
design] & engrav] mu/ h be5 f> less     
compet5t ?an ei!r ,bra9 or ,lepautre4   
,illu/ration3 ,figure #bb4--,,summ]     
,,dress ( a lady ) a pleat$   lace      
7,po9t d',anglet]re7 petticoat4 ,f !    
,extraord9aire (   ! ,m]cure ,galant1   
,june #afgh4 7,au?or's collection47     
caption at end  ,! w9t] fa%ions =       
#afgh-gi 7 describ$ 9 a long article 9 !
 ord9>y ,octob] numb] ( ! ,m]cure       
,galant1 :i*1 = ! co/ume hi/orian1 is ( 
great importance1 s9ce x deals among o!r
 topics ) ! evasion ( ! sumptu>y        
legislation by ! fa%ionable _w4 ,!      
fa%ion plates are by a new arti/ & are  
r$uc$ to two 7figs4 #bc & #bd74         
,illu/ration3 ,figure #bc4--;,,g5tleman 
9 w9t] attire suppos$ly   j return$ f ! 
army4 ,he ord]$ 8 gray clo? suit f      
,sieur ,gaulti]1 ^: %op1 ,a la ,c\ronne1
 0 locat$ 9 ! ,rue   des ,b\rdonnais4 ,f
 ! ,m]cure ,galant1 ,octob] #afgh4      

7,au?or's   collection47   ,habit       
d',hyv] #afgh  ,f ?is po9t ! ,m]cure    
,galant ceas$ to publi% a regul> s]ies (
 fa%ion plates4 ,occasional articles on 
fa%ion appe>$ ?r\gh ! re/ ( ! #afhjs &  
into ! next decade1 b !y are %ort] &    
less in=mative4 ,donneau de ,viz's      
adv5ture into fa%ion j\rnalism evid5tly 
_h fail$1 probably because ( a lack (   
dem& = x4 ,fa%ions bo? 9 clo!s & 9      
fabrics did n *ange v rapidly1 & g5]al  
fa%ion in=mation 0 suppli$ by two o!r   
s\rces3 fir/1 by ! annual almanacs1 :i* 
7 (t5 embelli%$ by a l>ge engrav+ ( "s  
important political ev5t1 & secondly1 by
 ! pr9t %ops 9 ! ,rue ,/4 ,jacques &    
else:]e1 :i* commission$ n only         
,lepautre1 :o _h work$ = ! ,m]cure      
,galant1 b ! ,bonn>ts1 ,jean de ,/4     
,jean1 ,arn\lt1 & o!r compet5t arti/s to
 produce l>ge engrav+s ( contempor>y    
p]sonalities4 ,^! = ! mo/ "p depict$    
memb]s ( ! ,fr5* royal family & c\rt    
circle1 actors & actresses1 & o!r       
well-kn[n *>act]s1 n always nam$ on !   

pr9t4 ,a ,man ( ,quality 7fig4 #be7 is  
almo/ c]ta9ly a portrait1 :i*1 :5       
suitably color$ z _m ( ! pr9ts 71 c\ld  
be p9n$ up or fram$ = decorative effect4
 ,x is wrong to take su* a pr9t1 z "s   
writ]s on co/ume h done1 = a fa%ion     
plate record+ :at 0 worn or likely to be
 worn 9 ! ye> 9 :i* x 0 engrav$4        
,illu/ration3 ,figure #bd4--,,lady 9    
w9t] dress ( br[n ,flor5t9e   sat94 ,h] 
petticoat is ( (f-:ite 7d'un blanc un   
peu sale7   sat9 brocad$ ) blue1 violet1
 r$1 & br[n designs4 ,f !   ,m]cure     
,galant1 ,octob] #afgh4 7,au?or's       
collection47   ,habit d',hyv] #afgh  ,! 
decorative "* ( ^! di/+ui%$ pr9ts 0 (t5 
enhanc$ by dress+ or ov]lay+ !m ) small 
pieces ( fabric1 lace1 or pap]4#ce ,!   
f9e/ s]ies ( su* pr9ts is t 9 ! ,pi]pont
 ,morgan ,libr>y1 ,new ,york ,city4 ,9  
figure #bf1 ! outl9es ( ! engrav+ 7     
c>efully cut ) a knife1 & select$ pieces
 ( small-patt]n fabrics 7 m\nt$ on /iff 
pap] =m+ an und]lay to ! pr9t4          
,illu/ration3 ,figure #be4--,,man ,,(   

,,quality at ! c\rt ( ,l\is ,,xiv4      
,engrav+ by ,jean de ,/4 ,jean1 #afic4  
7,,c\rtesy ,,( ,,victoria  ,,alb]t      
,,museum1 ,,london47  ,9 ,engl&1 !re 0  
no fa%ion j\rnalism or s]ies ( pr9ts t c
 be reg>d$ z illu/rations ( late        
#ag?-c5tury fa%ion4 ,"s use c be made ( 
! engrav+s aft] ,m>cellus ,l>oon1 :i* 7 
fir/ sold sep>ately & lat] publi%$ 9    
#agaa z ! ,cryes ( ,london1#cf to       
illu/rate co/ume 9 ,engl&1 b nei!r ^!   
nor ! illu/rations ( ,engli% m5 & wom5  
:i* appe> 9 g5]al works on ! co/ume (   
,europe c be accept$ z fa%ion plates4   
,o!r s]ies1 su* z ! plates on ! dress ( 
,augsburg engrav$ by ,j]emias ,wolff1   
belong m to ! hi/ory ( co/ume ?an to !  
hi/ory ( fa%ion4  ,9 ! e>ly ye>s ( !    
#ah? c5tury1 ,b]n>d ,pic>d1 be/ kn[n = 8
 great illu/rat$ "w on ! religions ( !  
_w1 made a few small & v neat engrav+s (
 fa%ionable ladies1 :i* 7 publi%$ 9     
,am/]dam 9 ! #agbjs4 ,^! engrav+s1 "s   
dat$ #agjc1 %\ld n be class$ z fa%ion   
plates2 l ! ,le ,cl]c engrav+ ( ! man 9 

rh9egrave bree*es 7fig4 #ae71 !y are f  
draw+ books4 ,"s ( !m1 "p re5grav$ by   
,g4 ,bickham1 ,jr41 7 reissu$ 9 ,london 
aft] #agcb4cg  ,9 ,p>is !re 0 a revival 
( ! fa%ion plate 9 ! late #agbjs4 ,!    
/ill-exi/+ ,m]cure de ,france1 direct   
successor ( ! ,m]cure ,galant1 c>ri$ an 
occasional fa%ion article ) engrav+s (  
dress accessories4 ,9 ,m>* #agbi 7fig4  
#bg71 !re is a n-v-well-def9$ sket* ( a 
lady ) h] page1 meet+ a g5tleman4 ,!    
accompany+ p>agraphs are n valuable b   
conta9 a recomm5dation = g>nitures to be
 _h f ,la ,demoiselle ,p]ronet1 9 ! ,c\r
 ,abbatial ( ,/4 ,g]ma9 des ,pres4 ,z = 
coeffures et ttes 4 4 4 on les coeffe   
sur une p\pe4  ,9 ! same ye>1 #agbi1 a  
set ( eight fa%ion plates entitl$       
,recueil des ,diff]5tes ,modes du ,temps
 0 issu$ by ,h]isset app>5tly to        
adv]tise a modi/e call$ ,*reau at ! ,gr&
 ,/4 ,remy 9 ! ,rue ,/4 ,jacques4 ,!y   
are c>efully drawn & %[ back & front    
views z well z indicat+ mat]ials 7fig4  
#bh74 ,no accompany+ text has be5 f\nd1 

b z !y are kn[n 9 two v]sions1 "o said  
to h be5 pr9t$ 9 ,g]many1 x is likely t 
"s descriptions 7 prep>$ = ! export     
m>ket4#ch  ,! ,fr5* engrav]s work+ 9    
,engl&--,gravelot1 ,grignon1 &          
,boit>d--produc$ "s dat$ portraits (    
,engli% ladies :i* c be us$ z fa%ion    
illu/rations4 ,! c>icature sc5es1 ,ta/e 
la ,mode1 #agce & ,ta/e  la ,mode1      
#agde1 publi%$ by ,rob]t ,say] 9        
#agdi1ci also may s]ve z records (      
fa%ion4 ,!re 01 h[ev]1 no j\rnal (      
fa%ion 9 ,engl& be=e ! reign ( ,george  
,,iii4 ,inde$1 !re seems to h be5 no    
publication or s]ies ( pr9ts to give    
guidance to ! fa%ion trade 9 ,europe 9 !
 mid-#ah? c5tury4    ,illu/ration3      
,figure #bf4--;,,dress$ ,,pr9t1 ca4     
#afie4 ,! engrav+ (   ,madame la        
,du*esse d',aumont is embelli%$ ) small 
pieces (   velvet1 figur$ silk1 & lace4 
7,c\rtesy ( ,! ,pi]pont ,morgan         
,libr>y47    ,illu/ration3 ,figure      
#bg4--;,,fa%ion ,,plate depict+ a lady )
 h]   page be+ salut$ by a g5tleman4 ,f 

! ,m]cure de ,france1   ,m>* #agbi4     
7,c\rtesy ( ,briti% ,museum1 ,london47  
,illu/ration3 ,figure #bh4--;,,fa%ion   
,,plate1 ! fir/ ( ! s]ies   ,recueil des
 diff]5tes ,modes du ,temps4 ,! fabric (
 ! dress on   ! "r is a moir or wat]$   
silk1 on ! left a lace-patt]n   brocade1
 (t5 wrongly ascrib$ to ! p]iod ( ,l\is 
,,xiii   7#afaj-dc74 ,issu$ by ,h]isset1
 ca4 #agcj4 7,au?or's collection47      
,te*nical in=mation toge!r ) "s fa%ion  
plates 0 available 9 ! #agfjs 9 v>i\s   
volumes ( ! ,fr5* ,encyclopdie4 ,m4 de  
,g>sault wrote ! section on ! art ( !   
tailor 7#agfi7 z well z sections on wigs
 & wigmak+4 ,! engrav+s by ,jean ,le    
,gros 7fig4 #bi7 7 ( practical use to   
hairdress]s2 a simil> book ( hair/yle by
 ,james ,/ew>t 0 publi%$ 9 ,engl&4#dj   
,! s+le-%eet almanac decorat$ ) engrav+s
 ( contempor>y ev5ts cont9u$ to be      
publi%$ 9 ,france 9 ! #ah? c5tury1#da b 
pictures 9 ! ,engli% univ]sity almanacs 
7 ma9ly topographical or hi/orical4 ,!  
next developm5t 0 ! issue ( annual      

memor&um books or pocket di>ies1 :i*    
sometimes _h a fa%ion plate z a         
frontispiece4 ,= example1 ! ,ladies     
,museum or ,pocket ,memor&um ,book1     
#aggd1 conta9$ an engrav+ ( a ,lady 9 ! 
mo/ fa%ionable dress ( ! ye> #aggc4 ,?is
 appe>$ n v long aft] ! fir/ production 
( ,oliv] ,goldsmi?'s com$y ,%e ,/oops to
 ,conqu]1 :i* conta9s ! foll[+ dialogue 
7,act #b73    ,mrs4 ,h>dca/le3 ,pray1 h[
 d y l ?is head1 ,mr4 ,ha/+s8    ,mr4   
,ha/+s3 ,extremely elegant & degage1 ^u 
my ^w1 ,madam4   ,y\r friseur is a      
,fr5*man1 ,i suppose8    ,mrs4          
,h>dca/le3 ,i prote/1 ,i dress$ x f a   
pr9t 9 ! ladies   memor&um-book = ! la/ 
ye>4  ,%e ,/oops to ,conqu] 0 writt5 9  
#aggb-gc1 &1 al?\gh a memor&um book     
publi%$ at ?is date & conta9+ fa%ion    
plates ( headdresses has n be5 trac$1 x 
is v likely t "o exi/$4  ,b be=e ?is1 9 
#aggj1 ,! ,lady's ,magaz9e or ,ent]ta9+ 
,companion = ! ,fair ,sex _h begun its  
long c>e] :i* la/$ until #ahcg4 ,figure 
#cj %[s a typical fa%ion plate = #aggd4 

,a lady 9 full c\rt dress is talk+ to   
ano!r 9 visit+ dress2 beh9d1 a ?ird 9   
full dress b )\t side hoops talks to a  
fri5d 9 travel+ dress ) a cala% hood2 9 
! backgr\nd a lady 9 rid+ dress looks   
out ( ! w9d[4 ,arti/ically su* a fa%ion 
plate is ( no great di/9ction1 b x s]v$ 
a purpose--to give in=mation ab\t curr5t
 fa%ions--v mu* bett] ?an ! m           
spectacul>ly illu/rat$ productions su* z
 ,heidel(f's ,gall]y ( ,fa%ion4  ,!     
#ah?-c5tury read+ public became         
increas+ly fa%ion consci\s1 & !re are   
sev]al s]ies ( ,fr5* color$ pr9ts1 !    
f9e/ ( !m by ,moreau le ,jeune f #agge  
onw>d1 :i* h high arti/ic m]it & h be5  
s\ght cont9u\sly by collectors4 ,_!     
purpose1 h[ev]1 0 explicitly p\r s]vir  
l'hi/oire des ,modes et du ,co/ume des  
,franais dans le ,x,v,i,i,ime sicle4 ,! 
pr9ts are /rongly romanticiz$ & mu/ be  
reg>d$ z a record ( some?+ betwe5       
hi/orical & fancy dress4 ,! accompany+  
text names b only briefly describes !   
dresses & !n passes on to faceti\s      

moraliz+4    ,illu/ration3 ,figure      
#bi4--;,,engrav+ ,,by ,,jean ,,le ,,gros
 depict+   ,fr5* hair /yle1 ca4 #agfj4  
,f ,l',art de la ,coiffure4 7,c\rtesy   
( ,victoria  ,alb]t ,museum1 ,london47  
,9 ! same way 9 ,london 9 #agid1        
,nicolaus ,heidel(f1 ^: ,gall]y (       
,fa%ion 0 an imitation ( "o ( ! ,fr5*   
s]ies by ,esnaut & ,rapilly entitl$ ,la 
,gall]ie des ,modes1 ?\gh claim+ t !    
dresses he describ$ 7 real ones1 seems  
to h _h z an objective ! =mation ( a    
sort ( picture gall]y ( co/ume portraits
 ( ,engli% ladies4 ,heidel(f call$ x a  
,repository1 :i* is :at we w\ld call an 
ar*ive today1 b ! t]m came to be us$ by 
,rudolph ,ack]mann = 8 g5]al magaz9e1 ,!
 ,repository ( ! ,arts 4 4 4 1 publi%$  
betwe5 #ahji & #ahbh 7see p4 #hi74 ,!   
ladies 9 ,heidel(f's aquat9ts are all   
diff]5t 9 ! s5se t !y are dress$        
diff]5tly & do+ diff]5t ?+s1 b !        
v>iations are mo/ly fanciful 7fig4 #ca74
 ,9 fact1 ! ,heidel(f pr9ts s]v$ to fill
 picture books or to be p9n$ up or fram$

 on walls2 !y d n diff] greatly 9 _!    
approa* f ! s]ies ( ! ,bonn>ts & _!     
contempor>ies dur+ ! reign ( ,l\is      
,,xiv4    ,illu/ration3 ,figure         
#cj4--,,plate ,,%[+ fa%ionable dress at 
,weym\?4 ,f ,! ,lady's ,magaz9e1 #aggd4 
7,c\rtesy ( ,victoria    ,alb]t ,museum1
 ,london47    ,illu/ration3 ,figure     
#ca4--,,pr9t ,,( ,a ,,lady 9 a c\rt     
dress   balloon$ out by side hoops1 by  
,n4 ,heidel(f4 ,! pr9t does n           
attribute ?is fa%ion to any specific    
ye>4 ,f ! ,gall]y (   ,fa%ion1 #agih4   
7,c\rtesy ( ,victoria  ,alb]t ,museum1  
,london47  ,x is n propos$ to give an   
acc\nt "h ( ! v>i\s magaz9es 9 ! diff]5t
 c\ntries :i* conta9$ illu/rat$ articles
 on fa%ion f #aggj onw>d1 s9ce ?is w\ld 
m]ely repeat mat]ial 9 ,mr4 ,vyvyan     
,holl&'s book4 ,m5tion %\ld be made1    
h[ev]1 ( ! movem5ts = dress re=m        
motivat$ ei!r by economic consid]ations 
or national feel+4 ,pamphlets & articles
 on ^! subjects 7 usually )\t           
illu/rations1 except :5 conc]n$ ) !     

revival or creation ( a national        
co/ume4#db ,sw$5 0 ! only c\ntry :]e1   
?anks to ! en?usiasm ( ,k+ ,gu/avus     
,,iii1 ! we>+ ( national dress 0 m ?an  
an ar*aiz+ affectation4 ,dr4 ,eva       
,b]gman#dc has describ$ ! orig9s ( ?is  
,sw$i% national dress 9 a book t is     
fully docum5t$ ) tailors' patt]ns &     
illu/rations4 ,z all details 7 prescrib$
 by c\rt regulations & v little scope 0 
left = ! impulses & p]sonal *oice ( !   
we>]s1 ! dress may be reg>d$ to a great 
ext5t z a uni=m r ?an a fa%ion4         
,modifications did take place1 h[ev]1 & 
! /yle cont9u$ into ! #ai? c5tury4 ,z   
late z #ahbg1 a pamphlet 0 publi%$ 9    
,cop5hag5 on ! same subject4#dd         
,illu/ration3 ,figure #cb4--;,,front ,,&
 ,,back ,,view ( a walk+ dress   %[+ t  
embroid]$ musl9 0 worn ev5 9 w9t]4 ,"h1 
!   musl9 is accompani$ by a r$ s>c5et  
,highl& sp5c] & a   mat*+ sc>f l9$ )    
erm9e4 ,f ,la ,belle ,assemble1         
,decemb] #ahjh4 7,c\rtesy ( ,! ,coop]   
,union ,museum47    ,illu/ration3       

,figure #cc4--,,walk+ ,,dress ,,( ,,gray
 ,,m]9o4 ,plate #ch1   ,ack]mann's      
,repository ( ! ,arts1 #ahai4 7,c\rtesy 
( ,! ,coop]   ,union ,museum47  ,) ^!   
dress-re=m books mu/ also be includ$ !  
books on ,fr5* ,revolution fa%ions1 (   
:i* t by ,grasset de ,sa9t-,sauveur is !
 be/ kn[n4#de ,:5 read+ ! descriptions (
 dress ( ! v>i\s (ficials1 grades1 &    
classes1 "o wond]s :e!r su* clo!s 7     
actually worn except on /ate occasions1 
or :e!r !y 7 fanciful novelties :i* !   
,fr5* (ficials 9 _! reaction aga9/ ,l\is
 ,,xvi & 8 c\rt ?\ght w\ld be           
appropriate = ! new regime4 ,! int5tion 
( ?is book1 h[ev]1 und\bt$ly 0 s]i\s & q
 unlike ! c>icature fa%ion plates (t5   
titl$ ,m]veilleuse or ,incroyable1 :i*  
amus$ ev]yone 9 ! e>ly ye>s ( ! #ai?    
c5tury4    ,illu/ration3 ,figure        
#cd4--,,philadelphia ,,fa%ions4 ,at ?is 
date caps   or hats 7 worn indoors )    
full ev5+ dress4 ,! details (   ?is pr9t
 7 probably copi$ f a ,fr5* or ,engli%  
fa%ion   magaz9e4 ,f ,godey's ,lady's   

,book1 ,octob] #ahcc4 7,c\rtesy (   ,!  
,coop] ,union ,museum47  ,aft] #ahjj _m 
types ( magaz9es fl\ri%$1 & ! increase 9
 ! numb] ( l5d+ & subscription libr>ies 
& also ( public libr>ies fo/]$ a new    
read+ public4 ,! magaz9es _h illu/rat$  
fa%ion articles4 ,(t5 ! engrav+s1 & lat]
 ! li?ographs1 color$ by h&1 7 _! mo/   
attractive feature4 ,n t any great      
orig9ality 0 %[n2 ! late/ ,p>is fa%ions 
7 (t5 adapt$1 ) or )\t ackn[l$gm5t f    
,fr5* fa%ion plates ( ! previ\s season4 
,m5's & *ildr5's fa%ions 7 n adapt$ on  
ne>ly ! same scale4 ,possibly1 m5's     
fa%ions 7 m /atic1 or conf9$ to details 
su* z v>iations 9 ty+ ! cravat4#df      
,?ree magaz9es are wor? special m5tion4 
,la ,belle ,assemble1 or ,bell's ,c\rt &
 ,fa%ionable ,magaz9e address$          
p>ticul>ly to ! ladies 0 publi%$ 9      
,london f #ahjf to #ahfh 7fig4 #cb74    
,dur+ ! #ahbjs ! plates 7 ( less m]it1 b
 !re 0 a lat] improvem5t4 ,9 #ahji1 !   
,london pr9t firm ( ,ack]mann began to  
publi% ,! ,repository ( ,arts1 ,lett]s1 

,comm]ce & ,manufactures ,fa%ion &      
,politics4 ,?is magaz9e _h a mu* wid]   
scope1 & its illu/rations are ( good    
quality 7fig4 #cc74 ,a special feature 0
 ! inclusion ( small sample squ>es ( new
 mat]ials pa/$ into ! text :i* nam$ &   
describ$ !m4 ,?is feature usefully      
supplem5ts indu/rial records ( ! p]iod1 
:i* are h>d to come by & difficult to   
h&le 9 t ^? pres]v$ are usually bulky1 n
 too well dat$1 & %[ no di/9ction betwe5
 fabrics made = export & ^? = ! home    
m>ket4 ,?irdly1 f #ahcj to #ahih1       
,godey's ,lady's ,book 0 publi%$ 9      
,philadelphia1 "u titles :i* v>i$ f "t  
to "t 7fig4 #cd74 ,?is magaz9e is mu* m 
fam\s = its o!r cont5ts ?an = its fa%ion
 articles2 its plates1 (t5 copi$ f ,fr5*
 engrav+s1 are ( l[ quality & r crudely 
color$4  ,! numb]1 v>iation1 & wide     
di/ribution ( #ai?-c5tury fa%ion plates 
has prov$ some?+ ( a h&icap to !        
hi/orian 9 se>* ( reliable in=mation    
ab\t dress4 ,mr4 ,holl& has /udi$ !m f !
 arti/ic angle1 trac+ _m ( ! ,fr5*      

arti/s1 :o did n scorn fa%ion "w4 ,!    
relation ( fa%ion plates to ,victorian  
dresses z worn has be5 t\*$ on by _m    
co/ume writ]s1#dg b ! relation ( !      
fa%ion plate to ! fa%ion h\se has yet to
 be /udi$2 9 p>ticul>1 ! l>ge %eets put 
out by :olesale drap]s & textile        
manufactur]s & ! adv]tisem5ts (         
ready-made clo?+ t appe> 9 magaz9es all 
?r\gh ! #ai? c5tury h n yet be5 /udi$ to
 full advantage4  ,?is acc\nt ( ! fa%ion
 plate is necess>ily incomplete1 because
 its hi/ory & developm5t has n be5      
cont9u\s1 & new l9ks may yet be f\nd4 ,!
 e>li] p]iod has be5 treat$ 9 great]    
detail because x is g5]ally less        
well-kn[n1 & ! b\nd>ies betwe5 ! fa%ion 
plate & ! co/ume picture are n all easy 
to def9e4 ,! fa%ion plate has di$ sl[ly1
 ! victim ( ! photograph %[+ ! model    
we>+ actual clo!s & ! sket* giv+ !      
impression ( a fa%ion arti/ at a dress  
%[4 ,?r\gh ! c5turies1 ! fa%ion plate   
has provid$ ! l9k betwe5 ! we>] & ! mak]
 ( clo!s4 ,x has also attract$ z        

collectors ^? /udy+ bo? ! social        
backgr\nd ( a p]iod & ! hi/ory ( co/ume4
       ,u4,s4 ,gov]nm5t ,pr9t+ ,(fice3  
#aifg    ,= sale by ! ,sup]9t5d5t (     
,docum5ts1 ,u4,s4 ,gov]nm5t ,pr9t+      
,(fice1 ,wa%+ton1 ,d4,c4 #bjdjb         
,price #ce c5ts   ,footnotes  ,notes t 7
 %[n 9 _! orig9al location are repeat$  
"h = complet5ess4      ,footnote #a3    
,,vyvyan ,,holl&1 ,h& ,col\r$ ,fa%ion   
,plates1     #aggj-ahii 7,bo/on3 ,bo/on 
,book & ,art ,%op1 ,inc41 #aiee74       
,footnote #b3 ,,aless&ro ,,piccolom9i1  
,dialogo de la bella creanza     de le  
donne 7,v5ice1 #aedj74 ,! dialogue is   
repr9t$ 9     ,g4 ,,zonta1 ,trattati del
 ,c9quec5to sulla donna 7#aiac71 b x    
des]ves a mod]n translation & edit+4    
,footnote #c3 ,,sir ,,h5ry ,,hake1 ,!   
,engli% ,hi/oric ,portrait4     ,lecture
 = ! ,briti% ,academy1 #aidc4           
,footnote #d3 ,,malcolm ,,letts1 ,!     
,di>y ( ,jrg von ,eh+5     7#aibi74     
,footnote #e3 ,,sigrid ,f4 ,,*ri/5s51   
,die mnnli*e ,kleidung 9 d]             

sddeuts*5 ,r5aissance 7#aicd71 pl4 #ba4 
,footnote #f3 ,sir ,,k>l ,t4 ,,p>k]1 ,! 
draw+s ( ,h4 ,holbe9 at     ,w9dsor     
,ca/le 7#aide71 pls4 #af1 #ai1 #bd4     
,footnote #g3 ,?is book1                
,klaidungsb*le91 9 ! ,h]zog             
,anton-,ulri* ,museum1 ,brunswick1      
,g]many1 0 edit$ by ,augu/ ,f9k     &   
publi%$ 9 full 9 #aifc by ! ,deuts*]    
,v]e9 fr     ,kun/wiss5s*aft1 ,b]l94    
,footnote #h3 ,= a g5]al acc\nt1 see ,j4
 ,l4 ,,nev9son1 ,sigmund     von        
,h]b]/e93 ,notes on #af? c5tury dress1  
,zeits*rift d]     ,gesells*aft fr      
hi/oris*e ,waff5- und ,ko/um-,kunde     
7#aiei71 new     s]4 #a1 p4 #hf4        
,footnote #i3 ,,sigmund ,,von ,,h]b]/e91
 ,gratae ,po/]itati 4 4 4     7,vi5na1  
#aefj74      ,footnote #aj3 ,,sigmund   
,,von ,,h]b]/e91 ,r]um ,moscovitic>um   
,comm5t>ii1 exp&$ ed4 7,basel3 ,opor9us1
 #aeef74      ,footnote #aa3 ,,juan ,,de
 ,,alcega1 ,libro di geometria y traca  
7#aehi74     ,see also1 ,tailor & cutt] 
7,london1 #aicc71 no4 #fh4 ,a copy (    

! #aehh edition 0 acquir$ by ! ,folg]   
,%akespe>e ,libr>y1     ,wa%+ton1       
,d4,c41 9 #aifd4      ,footnote #ab3    
,supplication to ! ,k+4 ,pr9t$ by !     
,e>ly     ,engli% ,text ,society1 extra 
s]4 7#ahga71 p4 #eb4      ,footnote #ac3
 ,lett]s & ,pap]s ( ,h5ry ,,viii1 vol4  
#a 7#b71 on4     #ccbf4      ,footnote  
#ad3 ,,&rew ,,boorde1 ,fyr/ ,boke ( !   
,introduction (     ,k 7#aedb74 ,repr9t$
 by ! ,e>ly ,engli% ,text ,society1     
extra s]41 vol4 #aj 7#ahgj71 p4 #aaf4   
,footnote #ae3 ,recueil de la div]sit   
des habits 4 4 4 7#aefb74     ,! book 0 
reissu$ 9 #aefd & #aefg4      ,footnote 
#af3 ,translat$1 ?is reads3 4 4 4 our   
pr$ecessors (     old 4 4 4 7 m c>eful  
ab\t sumptu\s dress ?an r>e virtue     4
 4 4 = z ! monk 0 recogniz$ by 8 frock1 
! je/] by     8 cap1 & ! soldi] by 8    
arms1 s ! wise man 0 kn[n by     8      
mod]ate habit4      ,footnote #ag3 ,a4  
,m4 ,,h9d1 ,engrav+ 9 ,engl& 9 ! #af? & 
#ag? c5turies 7,cambridge3 ,cambridge   
,univ]sity ,press1 #aieb71     vol4 #a1 

pl4 #cd4      ,footnote #ah3 ,f4        
,,b]telli1 ,omnium f]e g5tium no/rae    
aetatis     habitus 4 4 4 7,v5ice1      
#aefc74      ,footnote #ai3 ,= ! orig9 (
 ?is ,spani% fa%ion 9 #adgj1 see        
,,c>m5 ,,b]nis ,,madrazo1 ,indum5t>ia   
m$ieval espanola 7#aief71     p4 #ej1   
pl4 #aeh4      ,footnote #bj3 ,!re are  
two editions ( ! book by ,,ces>e        
,,vecellio3 ,de gli habiti anti*i e     
mod]ni 4 4 4 7,v5ice3 ,z5>o1     #aeij  
,italian text72 ,habiti ,anti*i e       
,mod]ni 7,v5ice3 ,sessa1     #aeih      
,italian & ,lat9 text74 ,! quality ( !  
woodblocks &     impressions v>ies      
consid]ably4      ,footnote #ba3        
,translat$1 ?is reads3 ,und]nea?1 !     
habit (     ! ladies :o imitate !       
,du*ess is to we> ! f>?+ale or          
pleat$ frock1 :i* skillfully holds !    
petticoat out wide l     a bell4 ,?is   
fa%ion is extremely conv5i5t = walk+ or 
danc+1 & n[adays1 ladies ?r\gh\t all    
,italy we> ?is     pleat$ frock m5tion$ 
above4 7#aeij ed41 folio #ahg4;a47      

,footnote #bb3 ,translat$1 ?is reads3 ,!
 orig9ator ( ^!     beautiful fabrics 9 
,v5ice is ,ma/] ,b>?olomew ,bontempele  
at     ! sign ( ! ',*alice4' ,f "t to "t
 at exhibitions he     makes ( ^!       
mat]ials he has creat$1 he %[s !        
greatness (     8 intellect1 :i* is     
accompani$ by an incomp>able g5]osity   
& k9dness = :i* he is greatly lov$ by ! 
,v5etian     nobility1 by _m pr9ces (   
,italy1 & 9 p>ticul> by 8     ,s]5e     
,highness ! ,duke ( ,mantua4 ,9 8 /ore1 
to :i* _m     g5tlem5 & pr9ces s5d      
ord]s1 ev5 ! ,s]aglio ( ! ,gr&          
,turk1 are to be se5 brocades work$ 9   
all mann]s ( gold &     silv]4 7#aeij   
ed41 folio #aci47      ,footnote #bc3   
,!re is an excell5t repr9t ( ,buytewe*'s
 book     ) an introduction by ,w4      
,,bruhn 7#aibf74      ,footnote #bd3 ,c4
 ,,le ,,blanc1 ,manuel de l'amateur des 
e/ampes     7#ahed71 no4 #edi-efj4      
,footnote #be3 ,= examples1 see ,a4     
,,blum1 ,l'oeuvre grav de     ,abraham  
,bosse 7#aibd71 nos4 #ieg-ifa2 ! plate  

,pompe funbre de     la ,mode1 by ,a4   
,,blum 79 ,les ,modes au ,x,v,i,ime     
sicle1 #aibg71     p4 #ba2 & ,f4 ,p4    
,,wilson1 ,fun]al obsequies ( ,sir      
,all-9-new-fa%ions 79 ,%akespe>e        
,survey1 #aieh71 p4 #ih4      ,footnote 
#bf3 ,j4 ,l4 ,,nev9son1 ,fa%ion ,plates 
& ,fa%ion1     #afbe-ce1 ,apollo 7#aiej7
 vol4 #ea1 pp4 #ach-adj4      ,footnote 
#bg3 ,,gu/ave ,,p>!y1 ,kurzes           
,v]zei*niss d]     ,holl>s*5 ,kupf]/i*5 
7#ahec71 nos4 #fjf-fji4      ,footnote  
#bh3 ,,gu/ave ,,p>!y1 ,kurzes           
,v]zei*niss d]     ,holl>s*5 ,kupf]/i*5 
7#ahec71 nos4 #aijh-ab1 #aicj-cc4       
,footnote #bi3 ,,p>!y1 ibid41 nos4      
#aidf-ea4      ,footnote #cj3 ,,john    
,,evelyn1 ,tyrannus or ! ,mode 7#affa74 
,facsimile repr9t ) introduction by ,j4 
,l4 ,,nev9son 7,ox=d3     ,luttrell     
,society1 #aiea71 no4 #aa4              
,footnote #ca3 ,e4 ,s4 ,,de ,,be]1 ,k+  
,*>les ,,ii's own fa%ion1     ,w>burg   
,in/itute ,j\rnal 7#aice71 vol4 #b1 no4 
#b1 p4 #aje4      ,footnote #cb3        

,translat$1 ?is reads3 4 4 4 no?+ is m  
pleas+ ?an ! /yles born 9 ,france 4 4 4 
4 ,?is is :y mu*     relat+ to dress is 
import$ f ,france into all ! prov9ces   
( ! _w1 ?\gh ! f9al dress is n exactly  
,fr5*4      ,footnote #cc3 ,,emile      
,,magne1 ,images de ,p>is s\s ,l\is     
,,xiv     7#aici74 ,9 ?is book1 ! social
 hi/orian ,dr4 ,magne devotes !     be/ 
"p ( a *apt] to ! ,m]cure ,galant &     
gives a li/+     ( all fa%ion articles  
up to #agjj4      ,footnote #cd3 ,see   
,j4 ,l4 ,,nev9son1 ,! ',m]cury ,gallant'
 or     ,european ,fa%ions 9 ! #afgj's1 
,connoisseur 7#aiee7 vol4 #acf1     p4  
#hg4      ,footnote #ce3 ,see ,f4 ,g4   
,,roe1 ,pr9ts & ,t9sel1 ,connoisseur    
7#aicb71 vol4 #hi1 p4 #cjb4             
,footnote #cf3 ,! ,cryes ( ! ,city (    
,london1 ,drawne aft] !     ,life1      
del9eat$ by ,m4 ,lauron1 engrav$ by ,p4 
,tempe/ 7,london3     ,h4 ,ov]ton1      
#agaa74      ,footnote #cg3 ,a new      
,draw+ book ( ,modes1 by ,mons ,b4      
,pic>t     7pr9t$ = ,ri*>d ,w>e at !    

,bible  ,sun 9 ,am5 ,corn]1     ,w>wick 
,lane1 ,london2 no date74      ,footnote
 #ch3 ,r4 ,,colas1 ,bibliographie du    
co/ume 7#aicc71 nos4     #bejb1 #bejc4  
,footnote #ci3 ,g4 ,,pa/on1 ,social     
,c>icature 9 ! #ah? ,c5tury     7#aije71
 pl4 fac+ p4 #aj4      ,footnote #dj3   
,j4 ,,le ,,gros1 ,l',art de la coiffure 
7#agfh74 ,,james     ,,/ew>t1           
,plocacosmos or ! :ole ,art (           
,hairdress+ 7#aghb74      ,footnote #da3
 ,c4 ,l4 ,,regnault ,,de ,,savigny1 ,les
 almana*s illu/res     du ,x,v,i,i,ime  
sicle 7#aiji74      ,footnote #db3      
,ju/us ,ms] ( ,osnabruck1 a prolific    
writ] 9 !     #aggjs1 discuss$1 9 8     
,patriotis*e ,fantasi51 n only          
national dress b :e!r magaz9es %\ld deal
 ) ladies'     fa%ions4      ,footnote  
#dc3 ,,eva ,,b]gman1 ,nationella ,drkt5 
7,/ockholm1     #aich74      ,footnote  
#dd3 ,j4 ,c4 ,,ryge1 ,ide] til en       
national ,smag i dansk     ,kla$]dragt  
7,cop5hag51 #ahbg74      ,footnote #de3 
,,grasset ,,de ,,sa9t-,,sauveur1 ,co/ume

 des ,reprs5tans     du peuple 7,p>is1  
#agie74      ,footnote #df3 ,h4 ,,le    
,,blanc1 ,! ,art ( ,ty+ ! ,cravat1 #crd 
ed4     7#ahbh74 ,! :ole ,art ( ,dress1 
by a ,cavalry (fic] 7#ahcj74     ,bo? ( 
^! small books conta9 fa%ion plates4    
,footnote #dg3 ,,vyvyan ,,holl&1 op4    
cit4 7footnote #a71 *ap4 #e ff4     ,c4 
,,willett ,,cunn+ton1 ,engli% ,wom5's   
,clo?+ 9 ! ,n9ete5?     ,c5tury 7#aicg74
 ,,james ,,lav]1 ,n9ete5? ,c5tury       
,co/ume 7#aidg74     ,c4 ,h4            
,,gibbs-,,smi?1 ,! ,fa%ionable ,lady 9 !
 #ai? ,c5tury     7#aifj74         99   
99       99       99       99           
99       99       99       99  ,orig9al 
,captions  ,! text = figures #f & #aa-ad
 0 pr9t$ z blocks ( v]se bel[ !         
illu/ration4 ,! rema9+ text 7figures    
#af-bb1 skipp+ #bj7 0 pr9t$ )9 ! body ( 
! illu/ration4 ,z ) all orig9al         
7pre-#aifg7 text1 ! spell+1             
capitalization & punctuation are        
un*ang$4  ,figure #f3    ! ^w bi5 9 !   
#d? l9e 0 pr9t$ z bi5 ) a l9e   or tilde

 ov] ! e    ,l'angloyse4   ,a9si ve/ue  
e/ une femme ,angloise   ,p> le dessus  
son bonnet e/ f\rr1   ,on la cognoi/    
7bi5 qu' aux lieux on ne voise7         
,facilem5t  son bonnet c>r4  ,figure    
#aa3    ,que ce m'e/ vne *ose e/range   
,de rem>qu] combi5 me *ange   ,cet      
habillem5t re=m3   ,que i'ay de mal     
m'en def5dre1   ,et q'uil me fa*e de le 
pre5dre1   ,p\r ne l'avoir acc\/um3     
,je viol5te ma nature2   ,me voyant en  
cette po/ure1   ,et demeure t\t int]dit1
   ,mais dequoy me s]t cette ple9te1    
,si p> raison ou p> contre9te   ,il faut
 obeir  l',edit6    ,il e/ iu/e qu'on   
s'accommode   ,au temps1 au pais1  la   
mode1   ,suivant le sa9ct decret des    
loix   ,sans *]*] de preuue plus ample  
,que celle qui luit dans lxample   ,de  
,lovys le plus gr& des ,rois  ,figure   
#ab3    ,t\t ce que l',art huma9 a      
jamais inu5t   ,p\r mieux *>m] les s5s  
p> la galant]ie1   ,et t\t ce qu'ont    
d'appas la ,grace et la beaut1   ,se    
desc\ure  nos yeux dans cette ,gall]ie4 

,icy les ,cauali]s les plus aduantureux 
,en lisant les ,romans1 s'nim5t         
combatre2   ,et de leur passion les     
,amans lang\reux1   ,flatt5t les        
m\uem5ts p> des v]s de ,!atre4    ,icy  
faisant semblant d'a*et] deuant t\s     
,des g&s1 des ,euantails1 du ruban1 des 
danteles2   ,les adroits ,c\rtisans se  
donn5t r5dez-v\s1   ,et p\r se faire    
aim]1 galantis5t les ,belles4    ,icy   
quelque ,l+]e a faute de succez   ,a    
v5dre abondamm5t de col]e se picque     
,contre des ,ciccaneurs qui p>lant de   
procez   ,empes*5t les ,*al&s d'abord]  
sa ,b\tique4  ,figure #ac3    ,n soe    
quick sight$1 is ! ,,eagle = h] pray    
,z ,i new fa%ions spie to make mee gay4 
,figure #ad3    ,w9t]   ,! cold1 n      
cruelty makes h] we>e   ,9 ,w9t]1 furrs 
& ,wild bea/s haire   ,= a smoo!r sk9n  
at night   ,embrace? h] ) m delight     
,figure #af3    ! ^w n\e 9 ! #d? l9e 0  
pr9t$ ) di]esis   7umlaut7 ov] ! u1     
foll[$ by acute acc5t on ! fir/ e       
,habit d',hyu]   ,t\r de plumes a deux  

po9tes   ,ca/or gris blanc   ,p]ruque   
noe   ,colet rond ,brod   ,manteau de   
drap de ,holl&e c\leur de feu d\ble de  
vet\rs noir     ou pl*e de c\leur       
,man*on de plu*e de c\leur              
,iu/e-au-corps gris brod de soye de     
c\leur d\bl de sat9     et la ve/e de   
mesme   ,brod]ie plate d',or et d'arg5t 
,canons a la ,royale brodez c\pez en    
botte t5ant au bas   ,s\ti]s noirs      
lu/rez et liz]ez d',or  ,figure #ag3    
,habit d',hyu]   ,gr&e coeffe de gaze   
brode ,palat9e de ,m>te   ,brasselets ou
 noeuds de ,diamans   ,man*on de plu*e  
de c\leur   ,robe de vel\rs noir et les 
noeuds de diamans   ,h]m9e sur vne ,iupe
 de dess\s noire  ,figure #ah3    ,habit
 d',hyu]   ,ruban l>ge brod de ,soye    
,ca/or ras noir   ,iu/e-au-caorps de    
drap de ,holl&e c\leur de noisette      
,baudri] brod c\leur de la plu*e   d\ble
 r5u]s de man*es sans-ve/e   frange =te 
c\leur de ,pr9ce   plu*e de c\leur      
,bas r\tr c\leur de lhabit   l,echarpe  
de po9t d'espagne ou de raiseau ,or et  

,arg5t  ,figure #ai3    ,de%abill       
d',hyu]   ,coeffe de ,soye ecru         
,coeffe noire   ,palat9e de ,po9t       
,man*on de plu*e c\leur de feu   ,man*e 
,s]e de plu*e4   ,man*e de ,*emise4     
,m5*ettes de po9t4   ,ce9ture de tissu  
d',or4   ,manteau de broc>t a fleurs    
d',or d\bl de plu*e c\leur de feu4      
,iupe de plu*e c\leur de feu4   trois   
rangs de gr&e d5telle ,or et            
,arg5t-vollante4   ,iupon de broc>t a   
fleurs d'arg5t bord d'erm9e4  ,figure   
#ba3    ,habit d',e/   ,ruban l>ge tabiz
 ou brod avec de la frange   ,ju/e au   
,corps de/am9e ,c\leur de ,pr9ce4   ,la 
,ve/e aussy longue que le ,ju/e au      
,corps de toile blan*e     g>nie de     
d5telle ou po9t4   ,t\r de man*e d\ble4 
,les ,gans g>nis de d5telle4   ,le      
,baudri]  fons blanc et des grans       
fleurons brodes     de la ,c\leur de    
l'habit4  ,figure #bb3    ,habit d',e/  
,a graphe de ,pi]]ies4   ,gans de po9t  
d',anglet]re4   ,man*ettes d\bles4      
,manteau de gaze4   ,jupe de po9t       

d',anglet]re sur un fons de c\leur4     
d'entelle d',anglet]re plisse4          
99       99       99       99       99  
99       99       99       99  ,errata  
7not$ by transcrib]7  title page   ,john
 ,l ,nev9son  spac+ sugge/s invisible 4 
aft] initial  ,footnote #ca3 ,e4 ,s4    
,,de ,,be]1 ,k+ ,*>les ,,ii's own       
fa%ion1   op5 quote miss+  ,footnote    
#cg3 ,a new ,draw+ book ( ,modes1 by    
,mons ,b4 ,pic>t   "n spell$ z %[n