,,steel ,,traps4 ,illustration3 ,,newhouse ,,traps--,,all ,,sizes4 ,,steel ,,traps4 ,describes the ,various ,makes and ,tells ,how to ,use ,them--,also ,chapters on ,care of ,pelts1 ,etc4 ,,by ,a4 ,r4 ,,harding4 ,,published ,,by ,a4 ,r4 ,,harding ,,publishing ,,co4 ,,columbus1 ,,ohio ,copyright #aijg ,by ,a4 ,r4 ,harding4 ,,contents4 ,i4 ,sewell ,newhouse ,,ii4 ,well ,made ,traps ,,iii4 ,a ,few ,failures ,,iv4 ,some ,european ,traps ,v4 ,proper ,sizes ,,vi4 ,newhouse ,traps ,,vii4 ,double and ,webbed ,jaw ,traps ,,viii4 ,victor and ,hawley ,norton ,traps ,,ix4 ,jump ,traps ,x4 ,tree ,traps ,,xi4 ,stop ,thief ,traps ,,xii4 ,wide ,spreading ,jaws ,,xiii4 ,caring ,for ,traps ,,xiv4 ,marking ,traps ,,xv4 ,how to ,fasten ,,xvi4 ,how to ,set ,,xvii4 ,where to ,set ,,xviii4 ,looking at ,traps ,,xix4 ,mysteriously ,sprung ,traps ,,xx4 ,good ,dens ,,xxi4 ,the ,proper ,bait ,,xxii4 ,scent and ,decoys ,,xxiii4 ,human ,scent and ,sign ,,xxiv4 ,hints on ,fall ,trapping ,,xxv4 ,land ,trapping ,,xxvi4 ,water ,trapping ,,xxvii4 ,when to ,trap ,,xxviii4 ,some ,deep ,water ,sets ,,xxix4 ,skinning and ,stretching ,,xxx4 ,handling and ,grading ,,xxxi4 ,from ,animal to ,market ,,xxxii4 ,miscellaneous ,information ,,list ,,of ,,illustrations4 ,newhouse ,traps--,all ,sizes ,mr4 ,sewell ,newhouse ,the ,first ,shop ,old ,newhouse ,trap ,a ,well ,made ,trap ,limb ,growing ,thru ,jaws ,bob ,tail ,trap ,defective ,pan ,bearing ,the ,all ,steel ,the ,modified ,all ,steel ,poor ,setting ,device ,double ,jaw ,without ,dog ,the ,duplex ,the ,no ,cross ,german ,fox ,trap ,english ,rabbit ,trap ,awaiting ,the ,trapper ,wisconsin ,trapper1 ,furs and ,traps ,mink1 ,trapped ,under ,an ,old ,root ,no4 #j ,newhouse ,trap ,no4 #a ,newhouse ,trap ,no4 #a #a_/b or ,mink ,trap ,no4 #b or ,fox ,trap ,no4 #c or ,otter ,trap ,no4 #d or ,wolf ,trap ,no4 #b #a_/b or ,otter ,trap ,with ,teeth ,no4 #c #a_/b or ,extra ,strong ,otter ,trap ,no4 #ba #a_/b ,without ,teeth ,offset ,jaw ,beaver ,trap ,detachable ,clutch ,trap ,newhouse ,special ,wolf ,trap ,small ,bear ,trap ,small ,bear ,trap ,with ,offset ,jaws ,standard ,bear ,trap ,regular ,bear ,trap ,with ,offset ,jaws ,grizzly ,bear ,trap ,bear ,trap ,chain ,clevis ,steel ,trap ,setting ,clamp ,no4 #ha or ,webbed ,jaw ,trap ,no4 #ia or ,double ,jaw ,trap ,a ,morning ,catch of ,skunk ,no4 #a ,victor ,trap ,no4 #d ,victor ,trap ,no4 #a ,oneida ,jump ,no4 #d ,oneida ,jump ,a ,jump ,trap ,trapper ,the ,tree ,trap ,tree ,trap ,set and ,animal ,approaching ,animal ,killed in ,tree ,trap ,stop ,thief ,trap ,method of ,setting ,stop ,thief ,trap ,trapper's ,cabin and ,pack ,horses ,trapper ,making ,bear ,set ,washing and ,greasing ,traps ,putting the ,traps in ,order ,traps and ,trapper ,marked and ,ready to ,set ,the ,sliding ,pole ,a ,staple ,fastening ,shallow ,water ,set ,hole ,set ,before ,covering ,another ,hole ,set ,before ,covering ,hole ,set ,after ,covering ,wrong ,position ,set ,the ,three ,log ,set ,marten ,shelf ,set ,big ,game ,set ,ring or ,loop ,fastening ,caught ,within the ,limits of ,chicago ,fox1 ,wolf or ,coyote ,trail ,fox1 ,wolf or ,coyote on the ,run ,muskrat ,tracks ,mink and ,opossum ,tracks ,wisconsin ,trapper--,knows ,where to ,set ,profitable ,day's ,catch ,snowshoeing ,over the ,trapping ,line ,once ,over the ,line--,white ,weasel ,caught ,just ,before a ,cold ,snap ,bait ,stealer--,bird ,northern ,trapper ,with ,pack ,basket ,some ,northern ,furs ,nebraska ,trapper's ,one ,night ,catch ,night's ,catch by ,colorado ,trapper ,both ,trappers--,father and ,daughter ,part of ,connecticut ,trapper's ,catch ,eastern ,trapper's ,catch ,caught ,where ,scent ,is ,much ,used ,young ,trappers ,discussing ,scent ,teaching ,the ,boy ,art ,of ,trapping ,trapper's ,home ,in ,colorado ,a ,few ,days' ,catch ,the ,inside of ,northern ,trapper's ,cabin ,coyote ,trapping on the ,cattle ,ranches ,eastern ,mink--,november ,caught ,muskrat ,house ,wolf ,caught at ,bank ,set ,lynx ,caught in ,steel ,trap ,marten ,caught in ,shelf ,set ,shelf ,set and ,fastening ,squirrel ,caught on ,stump ,raccoon ,caught in ,oneida ,jump ,red ,fox ,caught at ,dry ,land ,set ,opossum ,caught in ,no4 #a ,newhouse ,black ,skunk in ,no4 #a #a_/b ,victor ,baited and ,caught at ,cubby ,set ,there ,to ,stay-,in ,a ,newhouse ,mountain ,lion ,securely ,caught ,beaver1 ,trap and ,trapper ,large ,otter ,caught in ,no4 #c ,newhouse ,muskrat ,caught in ,double ,jaw ,a ,morning's ,catch of ,rats ,the ,black ,water ,marsh ,just ,after the ,season ,opens ,deep ,water ,set ,trap ,fastening ,skinning a ,bob ,cat ,single and ,three ,board ,stretcher ,some ,stretching ,patterns ,dakota ,trapper's ,method ,holder ,for ,skinning ,wire ,coon ,method ,wire and ,twig ,coon ,method ,size of ,stretching ,boards ,pole ,stretchers ,fleshing ,board ,stretching ,frame ,skin on ,stretcher ,hoop ,stretcher ,the ,home ,shanty ,a ,line ,shanty ,illustration3 ,a4 ,r4 ,harding4 ,,introduction4 ,to those that have followed the setting of ,steel ,traps there is a fascination or fever which comes over them every fall about the time of the first frosts4 ,the only remedy seems to be a few weeks on the trap line4 ,while some look upon trapping as an unprofitable business1 yet the number is becoming rapidly less1 for more and more people are yearly deriving pleasure1 profit and health from out-door life such as trapping1 hunting1 etc4 ,there are thousands of trappers scattered over ,america who are reaping a harvest of fur each year from their ,steel ,traps valued at hundreds of dollars in addition to the healthful sport they enjoy4 ,in some parts of ,canada and the ,northwest a trapper in a year catches fur the value of which together with the bounty brings him #a1jjj4jj to #b1jjj4jj4 ,it is said on pretty good authority that a trapper in ,british ,columbia a few years ago caught upwards of #f1jjj worth of fur1 principally marten1 in one season4 ,there are many thousands of trappers scattered from the ,gulf of ,mexico to the ,arctic ,ocean and from the ,pacific to the ,atlantic that make hundreds of dollars each year with ,steel ,traps4 ,there is also a vast number who trap only a few weeks each season4 ,this includes boys and farmers after the busy season4 ,the actual number engaged in trapping is not known4 ,neither is the actual value of the raw fur catch1 but it is thought to exceed #aj1jjj1jjj yearly4 ,is it any wonder then that so many want to know more about ,steel ,traps and ,trapping8 ,considerable of the information herein in regard to traps1 scent1 decoy1 etc41 is gathered from old and experienced trappers from all parts of ,america as well as from the great trap manufacturers1 ,oneida ,community ,ltd41 so that readers can rely upon the information imparted in this book as being trustworthy4 ,some books1 purporting to be of value to hunters and trappers1 are written by men who have never followed a line of traps or been in close touch with trappers4 ,the author of this work has been engaged for many years in trapping and collecting furs and has come into close contact with many of the leading trappers of the country4 ,steel ,traps are far superior to ,snares or ,deadfalls from the fact that they can be used for both land and water trapping while ,snares and ,deadfalls are adapted to ,land ,trapping only4 ,a4 ,r4 ,harding4 ,,chapter ,i4 ,,sewell ,,newhouse4 ,mr4 ,sewell ,newhouse1 the inventor of the ,newhouse ,trap grew up surrounded by the ,iroquois ,indians of the ,oneida ,tribe2 that tribe which alone of all the ,red men cast in their lot with the ,americans in our great struggle for liberty4 ,illustration3 ,,mr4 ,,sewell ,,newhouse4 ,at an early age he learned the gunsmith's trade4 ,in those days guns were all made by hand1 and in small shops4 ,mr4 ,newhouse soon became very skillful both in making and shooting the rifle4 ,at that time ,turkey ,shoots were very popular1 and ,mr4 ,newhouse was always sure of his bird at sixty to eighty rods4 ,it was a puzzle to many of the old hands how he managed to shoot so accurately1 even when the wind was blowing half a gale till it was finally discovered that he had fitted his rifle with an adjustable wind sight4 ,this was one of his early inventions that has now come into common use in target shooting4 ,the ,indians were very fond of shooting at a mark both with the rifle and the bow and arrow1 but they would seldom try conclusions with ,sewell--as they all called him--for he could always out shoot them with the rifle1 and very few of the tribe were as skillful as he with the bow and arrow4 ,in wrestling too1 a favorite game of the day1 ,mr4 ,newhouse was more than a match for the best men of his time both white and red4 ,some time before the year #ahdj1 ,mr4 ,newhouse undertook the manufacture of traps and so popular had his traps become that in #ahdb they were well known to all the tribes of the state1 so that about this year1 when a large part of the ,oneidas moved to ,green ,bay1 ,wisconsin ,territory1 an essential part of this outfit was a stock of ,newhouse's traps4 ,thus their fame spread to the ,west4 ,it is related that a delegation of chiefs from one of the ,algonquin tribes of the ,great ,lake region once called at ,mr4 ,newhouse's ,shop4 ,they had used some traps from a rival manufacturer but were much disgusted with them for in the intense cold of their country the springs would break4 ,as breaks the pipe of peace in war time4 ,they looked over his stock of ,traps1 pressed down the springs with their moccasined feet1 grunted and shook their heads in disapproval4 ,then ,sewell went out to the frozen creek nearby1 the savages watching in silence4 ,he chopped out a huge piece of ice1 and bringing it to the shop broke it into pieces which he threw into a large tub of water1 then setting half a dozen of the ,traps he plunged them into the water1 and in sight of the astonished and pleased ,red ,men he sprung them all off4 ,this severe test was enough for the visitors1 and at his own price ,mr4 ,newhouse sold them his entire stock of traps4 ,the affair greatly pleased the neighboring ,oneidas for well they knew when their ,sewell made and tempered a trap spring by his secret and magical process it would stand up to its work under any and all circumstances4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,first ,,shop4 ,early in the fifties ,mr4 ,newhouse removed from his home at ,the ,oneida ,castle up the ,valley to a spot now known as ,kenwood4 ,here close by the bank of the rushing ,oneida he established himself in a little smithey and began to make his famous traps on a larger scale4 ,he was soon after assisted by some of the mechanics of the ,oneida ,association--as the old ,oneida ,community was then called--of which ,mr4 ,newhouse had become a member4 ,in a few years it became evident from the increasing demand that the business must be enlarged and a small factory was built for the purpose4 ,still the demand continued to increase as the ,community began to send out an agent to solicit orders in the ,west4 ,the great ,hudson ,bay ,company sent in some large orders a custom by the way1 which they have continued annually from that early time until the present day4 ,more shops were erected1 water power and special machinery were introduced but still the demand outgrew the supply1 till finally the ,community was obliged to build on a much larger scale at the present site of its factory1 where the waters of ,sconondoa ,creek furnished for a long time ample power for the business4 ,here ,mr4 ,newhouse for many years after he ceased to work at the bench and forge1 spent his time in perfecting the manufacture and in the general oversight and inspection of the work4 ,with the eye of a lynx he was ever alert to see that no trap bearing his name went out of the factory except in perfect condition4 ,here before he left this world for his long1 long rest he carefully educated and trained a number of men to continue the business with the same painstaking spirit he had so long maintained4 ,the ,trap illustrated here is one of the earliest made by ,s4 ,newhouse after the business was established in the ,oneida ,community ,shops about the year #ahec4 ,illustration3 ,,old ,,newhouse ,,trap4 ,every piece was hand forged from wrought iron or steel4 ,it was roughly but strongly made and has endured for over half a century4 ,this trap belonged to one of the pioneers of ,wisconsin who had used it for many years4 ,it is still in good working order1 the spring being as lively as on the day ,mr4 ,newhouse so carefully and skillfully forged and tempered it4 ,,chapter ,,ii4 ,,well ,,made ,,traps4 ,among the first requisites and of the utmost importance to successful trapping is the possession of an outfit of well made ,steel ,traps4 ,that the young trappers may understand what are the requisites of a good trap we will describe in detail one that has held its own in the estimation of the professional trappers for sixty years1 and then we will endeavor to point out wherein the many so-called improvements1 that have been put on the market1 have uniformly failed of success4 ,what the main spring is to a watch1 a trap spring is to a trap1 and unless the spring is made of a properly compounded steel and is of the right form and proportion and correctly tempered it will surely fail and make the whole trap worse than useless4 ,certain mixtures of pig iron are used in making spring steel and if these mixtures are varied from in any particular or if the steel has a surplus of carbon1 or is deficient in that element1 it will not take a proper temper and consequently is of no value4 ,a proper manipulation in the rolling mill is also necessary1 or the steel may be entirely ruined in rolling4 ,a good spring when set should show a nearly uniform curve throughout4 ,this indicates that it is properly tapered so as to bring a uniform strain on the steel4 ,the lasting qualities of a spring are greatly dependent on the correctness of this point4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,well ,,made ,,trap4 ,the bows or holes in the spring must be of a proportion to properly fit the jaws and have such a twist as will allow them to lie flat when set1 and the temper must be so moderated as not to be brittle or high1 otherwise they may break if sprung without anything between the jaws4 ,for it is well known that it is a much harder strain on any trap to be sprung thus than to snap on to the leg of an animal4 ,another very important thing is to have the strength of the spring proportioned to the size of the trap1 for an excessively stiff spring is more apt to break the leg bone of the animal and increase the liability of legging as the trappers call it1 while a very weak spring may allow a vigorous animal to draw its foot out1 especially if caught low down4 ,and last but more important than anything else1 the spring must have just the right temper1 for a bad tempered trap spring is like a bad tempered wife1 a worse than useless encumbrance4 ,and do not let the tyro imagine that it is easy to temper a trap spring1 for it requires a long experience and very expensive and carefully studied conditions and apparatus to produce anything like uniform results4 ,few persons realize the unusually trying conditions under which a trap spring has to do its work1 and it is safe to say that no mechanical contrivance performs its functions with greater precision than a well made and tempered trap spring4 ,a ,no4 #a spring weighs less than three ounces and will exert a force of between #gj and #hj lbs41 and one of these has been known to remain under strain for over thirty years and then spring as promptly as though just set4 ,the jaw of a trap should have a good wide bearing surface1 otherwise it will be apt to break the animal's leg bone1 a calamity always to be avoided1 especially in dry land trapping1 for as before remarked legging is thus likely to follow4 ,anything like a sharp cutting edge or a saw tooth is especially objectionable1 for our object in catching an animal is to obtain its fur and not to amputate its limbs4 ,as a prevention of legging the ,nos4 #ha1 #ia1 #ia #a_/b traps1 described elsewhere1 are especially designed4 ,the pintle or end bearings of the jaws should fit loosely in the holes to allow for rusting and a little freezing1 and there should also be a slight end play for the same reason4 ,the weight and strength of a jaw should be sufficient to prevent it from being sprung or bent enough to throw it out of its bearing when it is set or when sprung by the animal4 ,much diversity of opinion obtains regarding the proportionate size of the pan or treadle4 ,some trappers like a large pan similar to that used in the ,jump trap1 but it is safe to say that the greater majority1 especially among the old and experienced trappers1 prefer the smaller sizes1 and for obvious reasons4 ,when an animal steps on a small pan he is caught to stay1 but with a large one he may be nipped or his foot may be thrown out altogether4 ,at any rate his education has been immensely advanced and it will take a trapper with a long head to get him into a trap next time4 ,the pan should fit loosely in its bearing for as is well known1 rusting increases the size of a piece of iron and as there are four surfaces to rust in a pan bearing1 ample room must be left4 ,illustration3 ,,limb ,,growing ,,thru ,,jaws4 ,this trap was made about #ahge and no part had given way from the tremendous pressure4 ,surely a good ,newhouse4 ,the dog or latch should be thick and narrow rather than wide1 as presenting less surface for the animal to step on4 ,it should be curved and pointed in such a way as to hold up the pan but so as to go off easy or hard in proportion to the size of the animal trapped for4 ,this is a nice point for each trapper to decide for himself and it is this susceptibility to adjustment by curving or straightening the dog that makes this old trigger arrangement superior to any other that has been invented4 ,of course1 the cross and bottom pieces must be made in proportion to the other parts of the trap and the experienced trapper or inspector knows how to so bend them as to make them conform correctly therewith4 ,the chain should be strong enough to hold any animal for which the trap is designed4 ,it goes without saying that a good swivel is indispensable1 as well as a reliable ring and wedge for fastening1 and the ,s ,hook sometimes furnished will be found very convenient as a means for attaching the trap to a drag4 ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,a ,,few ,,failures4 ,we present herewith a few photos taken from a collection of experimental traps and will endeavor to point out wherein these failed to prove themselves of practical value4 ,illustration3 ,,bob ,,tail ,,trap4 ,this trap was sometimes called the ,bob ,tail on account of its lack of a dog1 and this feature was thought to be a valuable one as there was nothing to throw the animal's foot out1 but it was found to be deficient in that it was not sensitive enough and it lacked any adjustability in its setting device4 ,illustration3 ,,defective ,,pan ,,bearing4 ,this model was put on the market and sold for some time and seemed to be a very good trap4 ,it was discovered1 however1 that the bearing of the pan was too low down for a delicate set and also sometimes caused trouble by freezing in mud4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,all ,,steel4 ,this trap was at one time thought to be good and was tried by many trappers4 ,it was found1 however1 to be very faulty in many respects4 ,the bearing of the pan lay flat in the mud and would freeze4 ,the setting device lacked any kind of adjustability and might either go off so hard that nothing could spring it or so easily that it would not stay set at all4 ,the jaws which were made of thin sheet steel were not durable4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,modified ,,all ,,steel4 ,in this trap the method of attaching the pan was changed and the jaws were rendered more durable1 but as the holding edges were made much thinner they were more liable to cut the animal's legs and on the whole the trap was not improved4 ,illustration3 ,,poor ,,setting ,,device4 ,this trap was invented to do away with the throwing out motion of the dog4 ,it accomplished it1 however1 at such a sacrifice of other valuable features as to render it a useless invention4 ,its pan like others mentioned was liable to freeze up and it also lacked in easy adjustability and sensitiveness4 ,few of them were sold as they did not meet the approval of trappers of experience4 ,illustration3 ,,double ,,jaw ,,without ,,dog4 ,a ,double ,jaw ,trap was made without a dog as shown by the setting device1 although ingenious in construction1 was not sensitive4 ,the holding power of the double jaw was good1 especially in a dry land set1 as all know who have tried the ,newhouse ,no4 #ia or #ia #a_/b4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,duplex4 ,this trap was designed by a man who thought it desirable to fasten the bait to the pan4 ,only a novice at trapping would think of doing such a thing as that1 as drawing the animal's attention to the trap is sure to excite his suspicion and to catch him by the head is not desirable1 even if possible4 ,a common trap is quite certain to only nip him and slip off4 ,the trap as will be seen could be used also like a common one1 but presented a very awkward appearance4 ,a few experienced trappers gave it a trial but none of them seemed to favor it4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,no ,,cross4 ,this style was never put on the market4 ,there have been invented quite a number of traps that have no cross piece but we do not know that any of them have been sold4 ,,chapter ,,iv4 ,,some ,,european ,,traps4 ,german ,fox ,trap4 ,the cut below represents a ,german ,trap1 as made at the present time1 and there are several ,german makers of similar traps4 ,they are mostly hand made and vary slightly in style of construction from one another4 ,the sizes cover all the different fur-bearing animals1 but the traps are clumsily made and much more expensive than those of ,american ,manufacture4 ,illustration3 ,,german ,,fox ,,trap4 ,it will be observed that the ,pan is very large1 in fact1 it so nearly fills the space between the jaws1 that there is quite a good chance that an animal would be thrown clear of the jaws when springing it4 ,the setting devise has no delicacy of adjustment and the fulcrum of the pan is so low down it would be very likely to freeze solid in the mud4 ,these traps are all provided with many large sharp teeth1 and if the animal is caught high up they may do great injury to a valuable pelt4 ,english ,rabbit ,trap4 ,this remarkably clumsy looking concern is made in ,england and is used mostly in ,australia and ,new ,zealand for catching rabbits1 which have become such a pest in those far away ,islands of the ,sea4 ,illustration3 ,,english ,,rabbit ,,trap4 ,the ,australian rabbit trappers are mostly of ,english descent and like their forefathers are very conservative in their ideas1 so in spite of its many defects1 they stick to the use of this antiquated machine4 ,notice the size of the pan almost filling the opening in the jaw1 width of the dog both tending to throw out the animal's foot4 ,the sharp toothed jaws with thin cutting edges so apt to break the bone and help the rabbit to free itself4 ,note also the short half spring which the trappers say will not endure more than one or two years use and which is stationary and sets high up1 thus making it hard to conceal4 ,that there is need of something better than this to keep down these pests1 may be believed1 for it is stated that in spite of the fact that over two million dollars worth of their pelts and flesh are shipped to ,europe annually1 they are still on the increase4 ,they have lately made their appearance in regions hitherto free from them4 ,owing to the enormous fecundity1 they soon take nearly complete possession of a place as it is calculated that one pair may increase to about two million in a couple of years4 ,until the trappers adopt some more efficient trap it is difficult to see how they are to make much headway against this scourge of the land4 ,,chapter ,v4 ,,proper ,,sizes4 ,trappers have done much1 by pushing into the wilderness after fur-bearing animals and game1 to advance civilization4 ,had the slower pursuits of logging1 farming1 etc41 been depended upon the ,united ,states and ,canada today would not be nearly so far advanced as they are4 ,while in sections1 the larger game is gone yet there is in parts of the ,north1 ,west and ,south1 much good trapping territory that will pay the hardy trapper for years to come4 ,even in the more thickly settled districts1 trapping can be made a good paying business if the correct sizes are used and trappers pay attention to the proper season to trap4 ,it seems that red fox1 skunk and muskrat remain about as numerous in most sections as ever4 ,in fact1 the red fox in certain sections has only made its appearance of late years--since the country has become more thickly settled4 ,trappers in most sections can rest assured that they will have game to trap for years to come4 ,in the rapid development of the country steel traps have played a wonderful part4 ,they have subdued the monster bear and have caught millions of the small fur-bearing animals1 adding largely to the annual income of the trapper4 ,steel traps have been in use for more than one hundred years but for many years after invented they were so expensive that they were not generally used4 ,illustration3 ,,awaiting ,,the ,,trapper4 ,of late years they have become cheaper1 owing to the increased facilities of those great trap manufacturers1 the ,oneida ,community1 who are always looking to trappers' interest by adding new and improved methods of manufacture as well as new traps to the extensive line already manufactured so that now their use has become general2 in fact1 the price is now so reasonable that the trapper1 on his first expedition1 can have a full supply4 ,the professional trapper1 who in the ,north1 spends from seven to nine months in the woods has a supply of these traps1 ranging from the smallest to the largest4 ,his needs are such too that all of them are in use during the trapping season4 ,a trapper can use from #ej to #bej traps4 ,trappers1 as a rule1 know what game they are going to trap and consequently the number of each kind or size required4 ,if he is after bear1 otter or beaver1 etc41 he can not use and tend as many as if he were trapping smaller game1 such as skunk1 mink1 opossum1 raccoon and muskrat4 ,traps are made in various sizes4 ,the smallest1 ,no4 #j1 is used for catching rats principally1 while the largest1 ,no4 #f1 is for the grizzly bear4 ,other sizes and the game to which they are adapted are3 ,no4 #a1 known as the muskrat trap1 but will hold mink1 skunk1 marten1 etc4 ,the jaws spread #d inches4 ,no4 #ha1 size of ,no4 #a with web jaws for muskrat1 mink and skunk4 ,no4 #ia1 size ,no4 #a with double jaws for muskrat and skunk4 ,no4 #a #a_/b mink rat1 but will hold stronger game4 ,the jaws spread #d #g_/h inches4 ,no4 #ia #a_/b1 size of ,no4 #a #a_/b with double jaws for mink and skunk4 ,no4 #b fox trap1 also used for coon4 ,no4 #b #a_/b otter with teeth2 ,no4 #bd #a_/b same as ,no4 #b #a_/b without teeth2 ,no4 #c for otter and coyote2 ,no4 #c #a_/b extra large single spring otter with teeth2 ,no4 #ca #a_/b same as ,no4 #c #a_/b without teeth2 ,no4 #bc otter with clutch2 ,no4 #d wolf and beaver2 ,no4 #ad beaver with offset jaw and teeth2 ,no4 #bd beaver with clutch2 ,no4 #d #a_/b timber wolves and mountain lion2 ,no4 #ej small bear2 ,no4 #aej small bear with offset jaw2 ,no4 #e black bear2 ,no4 #f grizzly bear4 ,these are the well known ,newhouse brand being by far the best trap made4 ,this brand is put out in twenty-five different sizes4 ,the weight per dozen of ,newhouse traps given below will give a better idea of the relative sizes of these traps3 ,no4 #j weighs #f #a_/b pounds2 ,no4 #a1 #i #a_/d pounds2 ,no4 #a #a_/b1 #ac pounds2 ,no4 #b1 #ag pounds2 ,no4 #c1 #bc pounds2 ,no4 #d1 #cc pounds2 ,no4 #b #a_/b1 #bc #c_/d pounds2 ,no4 #d #a_/b1 #ih pounds2 ,no4 #ej1 #acb pounds2 ,no4 #e1 #ace pounds2 ,no4 #f1 #ejd pounds4 ,a single trap of the ,no4 #f weighs #db pounds and it can be readily seen that they are very strong4 ,the ,newhouse is the strongest trap made and in fact the best for all fur-bearing animals4 ,a ,no4 #a ,newhouse is equal in holding power to a ,no4 #a #a_/b of other brands4 ,illustration3 ,,wisconsin ,,trapper1 ,,furs ,,and ,,traps4 ,the following letters1 from trappers of experience will be found of interest as bearing on the subject of proper sizes3 ,in buying your traps1 do not get too large a trap for the animal you wish to catch4 ,i know an old trapper that has trapped for forty years and all he uses for muskrat is a ,no4 #j ,newhouse trap4 ,a rat does not gnaw the foot off as many trappers will tell you1 but the forefoot is very tender and as a rat always struggles very hard when caught1 it does not take very long to twist the foot off if the trap is not set so the rat will drown4 ,different trappers have different ways of fastening the traps when trapping for rats4 ,i use a ,no4 #a ,newhouse trap for mink and a ,no4 #a #a_/b for skunk4 ,i notice that the ,newhouse people have a new trap called the ,webbed ,jaw ,trap4 ,i think this an excellent trap to use in very cold weather4 ,yes1 these otter traps are quite heavy1 ,no4 #c #a_/b ,newhouse1 but are sure to hold1 writes a ,new ,england trapper who is being accompanied by a young trapper4 ,you asked me what the raise plate was for2 it is for the otter to hit as he passes over1 as you see he is very short legged1 and the plate sets higher than the teeth on jaws of trap1 and it will answer other purposes1 as you will see when you set them4 ,these otter and bear traps are alright and the animal that steps on the pan will stay or leave a foot4 ,we have #i otter and #d bear traps4 ,let us look at fox traps4 ,we have #be jumpers1 ,no4 #b #a_/b2 these are right for dry sets4 ,here are #be ,no4 #c ,newhouse for water sets4 ,no4 #b ,newhouse is just right for coon and fisher4 ,trappers in stating the size traps that they use for a certain animal show quite a difference4 ,some use a ,no4 #a ,newhouse for coon while others use the ,no4 #b and as this is a double spring1 the holding power is fully three times as much as the ,no4 #a4 ,in the ,northern states where the coon grows much larger than in the ,south and ,southwest1 the ,no4 #b ,newhouse is the trap4 ,in the ,south the ,no4 #a #a_/b ,newhouse is a good mink trap as is also the ,no4 #a #a_/b ,victor and ,no4 #b ,oneida ,jump4 ,the proper size trap to use for a certain animal1 varies under different conditions4 ,if the trapper is reasonably certain that no other species of animal than the one trapped for frequents the place then the best size for the animal being set for is the trap to use4 ,on the other hand1 should the trapper have out some traps for skunk1 which need not be larger than ,no4 #a of the best or ,newhouse variety1 and any of the dens are visited by fox a larger trap should be used4 ,if trapping for rats and you come to rat signs and also where there are coon and mink signs1 a trap large enough to hold either should be set4 ,illustration3 ,,mink1 ,,trapped ,,under ,,an ,,old ,,root4 ,if blind or trail sets are made1 it is well to have the trap sufficiently strong for the largest animal using it4 ,often different animals use the same trail or path leading from one den to another or to a log across a stream1 etc4 ,elsewhere a complete description of the various makes and sizes of traps to use is given and also full instructions about setting1 fastening1 etc4 ,this embraces the view of the manufacture1 the trapper and of the author who has had years of experience and should be of great value to inexperienced users of ,steel ,traps4 ,,chapter ,,vi4 ,,newhouse ,,traps4 ,in or about #ahbc the first ,newhouse traps were made4 ,at that early date only a few of the smaller sizes were manufactured but these have been added to until now the famous ,newhouse trap is manufactured in twenty-five different sizes4 ,the smallest1 ,no4 #j1 for rats and the largest1 ,no4 #f1 for grizzly bear4 ,these with the various intermediate sizes are adapted to catching all varieties of the fur-bearing and game animals of the world4 ,in fact1 it is said that the ,no4 #f will hold any living animal excepting the elephant4 ,under this heading the various makes of this trap are described2 excepting the ,double and ,webbed ,jaw1 which are described in another chapter4 ,considerable of the description as given here is from the trap catalog of the ,oneida ,community1 ,oneida1 ,n4 ,y41 manufacturers of the ,newhouse trap4 ,for we believe that inasmuch as they have for more than half a century manufactured traps 7during which time they have kept up a large correspondence with trappers in all parts of ,north ,america7 much weight should be given their views4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #j1 ,,newhouse ,,trap4 ,this1 the ,no4 #j1 is the smallest size made4 ,spread of ,jaws1 #c #a_/b inches4 ,it is used largely for catching gophers and house rats4 ,it has a sharp grip and will hold larger game1 but should not be overtaxed4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #a1 ,,newhouse ,,trap4 ,this1 the ,no4 #a1 has a spread of jaws of #d inches4 ,this trap is used for catching muskrat and other small animals and sold in greater numbers than any other size4 ,its use is well understood by professional trappers and it is the most serviceable size for catching skunks1 weasels1 rats and such other animals as visit poultry houses and barns4 ,this trap is one that can be used to good advantage for other small fur-bearing animals4 ,trappers use large numbers of this size for muskrat1 mink1 opossum1 civet and marten4 ,fox1 coon1 lynx and wild cat are often caught in this trap but we do not advise its use for these large animals4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #a #a_/b1 ,,or ,,mink ,,trap4 ,this trap1 ,no4 #a #a_/b1 has a spread of jaws of #d #g_/h inches4 ,this size is called the ,mink ,trap but it is1 however1 suitable for catching woodchucks1 skunks1 coon1 etc4 ,professional trappers often use it for catching foxes4 ,it is very convenient in form and is strong and reliable4 ,in some states where skunks grow very large1 such as in parts of ,nebraska1 ,iowa1 ,wisconsin1 ,minnesota and the ,dakotas1 as well as other ,northwestern sections this trap is much used4 ,one advantage in using a trap of this size for mink is that they are caught high up and if by one of the front legs they are pretty sure to be dead before the arrival of the trapper4 ,if used for mink at a water set1 the animal generally soon drowns4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #b1 ,,or ,,fox ,,trap4 ,this trap1 the ,no4 #b1 has a spread of jaws of #d #g_/h inches1 being the same as ,no4 #a _/#b1 but having two springs1 it is1 of course1 much stronger4 ,this size is commonly known as the ,fox ,trap4 ,this trap is often used for taking badger1 fisher and coyote4 ,trappers sometimes remove one spring and use it for large coon1 woodchuck and even for fox as some think with two springs the trap is too strong4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #c1 ,,or ,,otter ,,trap4 ,this1 the ,no4 #c1 has a spread of jaws of #e #a_/b inches4 ,it is designated as the ,otter ,trap4 ,it is a very powerful trap and will hold almost any game smaller than a bear4 ,this trap is used for taking beaver and also to some extent for small wolves and coyotes4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #d1 ,,or ,,wolf ,,trap4 ,this1 the ,no4 #d1 has a spread of jaws of #f #a_/b inches4 ,this is the regular form of ,wolf ,trap4 ,it is longer than the ,no4 #c and has one inch greater spread of jaws4 ,it is a favorite with those who trap and hunt for a living in the ,northwest and ,canada4 ,it is extensively used for trapping the wolves and coyotes in the western stock raising regions4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #b #a_/b1 ,,or ,,otter ,,trap ,,with ,,teeth4 ,this1 the ,no4 #b #a_/b1 has a spread of jaws of #f #a_/b inches4 ,this is a single spring trap as shown4 ,in some localities the otter grows to an unusual size1 with great proportional strength1 so that the manufacturers have been led to produce an especially large and strong pattern4 ,the parts are heavier than the ,no4 #c1 the spread of jaws is greater and the spring stiffer4 ,the jaws are equipped with teeth to keep the otter from getting free when once caught4 ,the pan is also furnished with a raised plate which can be taken off if desired4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #c #a_/b1 ,,or ,,extra ,,strong ,,otter ,,trap4 ,this1 the ,no4 #c #a_/b1 has a spread of jaws of #e inches4 ,this trap is for otter1 but is used more especially for catching them on their slides4 ,for this purpose a thin raised plate of steel is adjusted to the pan so that when the trap is set the plate will be a trifle higher than the teeth on the jaws4 ,the spring is very powerful1 being the same as used on the ,no4 #d ,newhouse ,trap4 ,if desired1 the raised plate can be detached1 making the trap one of general utility4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #ba #a_/b1 ,,without ,,teeth4 ,single ,spring ,no4 #ba #a_/b has a spread of jaws of #e #a_/d inches4 ,this trap is the same as ,no4 #b #a_/b but is without teeth or ,raised ,plate as some trappers prefer it in this style4 ,no4 #ca #a_/b ,newhouse ,trap is also a single spring being same as ,no4 #c #a_/b but without ,teeth or ,raised ,plate4 ,spread of jaws #f #a_/b inches4 ,these traps1 ,nos4 #ba #a_/b and #ca #a_/b1 are the largest smooth jaw1 single spring sizes that are made4 ,professional trappers will find them especially valuable when on a long trapping line1 as they are more compact and easier to secrete than double spring traps4 ,the springs on these traps are made extra heavy4 ,the ,no4 #ba #a_/b is practically a single spring ,no4 #c and the ,no4 #ca #a_/b a single spring ,no4 #d4 ,these traps are used for such animals as otter1 beaver1 wolf1 wolverine1 fisher and have been known to catch and hold ,mountain ,lion4 ,illustration3 ,,offset ,,jaw ,,beaver ,,trap4 ,this trap is known as ,no4 #ad and has a spread of jaws of #f #a_/b inches4 ,this trap is the same in size as ,no4 #d ,wolf but has heavier and stiffer springs and offset jaws1 which allow the springs to raise higher when the animals leg is in the trap1 and it is furnished with teeth sufficiently close to prevent the animal from pulling its foot out4 ,the weight of this style is about #c #a_/b pounds each4 ,illustration3 ,,detachable ,,clutch ,,trap4 ,this trap is known as ,detachable ,clutch ,trap4 ,the trap can be used with or without it4 ,it is made in two sizes ,nos4 #bc and #bd4 ,no4 #bc known as the ,otter ,clutch has a spread of jaws of #e #a_/b inches2 ,no4 #bd known as the ,beaver ,clutch has a spread of jaws of #f #a_/d inches4 ,illustration3 ,,newhouse ,,special ,,wolf ,,trap4 ,this trap is known as the ,no4 #d #a_/b or ,newhouse ,special ,wolf ,trap4 ,it was put on the market to meet the demands of trappers for a new model of the ,newhouse ,trap especially designed for capturing the large timber wolves and mountain lions of the stock raising sections of the ,west4 ,this trap has a spread of jaws of #h inches4 ,it is substantially made thruout and is provided with a pronged drag1 a heavy snap1 an extra heavy steel swivel and a chain1 five feet long1 warranted to hold #b1jjj pounds4 ,this trap complete with chain and drag weighs about #i pounds4 ,illustration3 ,,small ,,bear ,,trap4 ,this trap is known as ,no4 #ej1 spread of jaws #i inches4 ,it is intended for catching small sized bears4 ,in design it is exactly like the standard ,no4 #e ,bear ,trap1 only that the parts are all somewhat smaller4 ,weight1 #aa #a_/d pounds each4 ,this trap is also used for catching ,mountain ,lion4 ,illustration3 ,,small ,,bear ,,trap ,,with ,,offset ,,jaws4 ,this trap is known as ,no4 #aej1 spread of jaws1 #i inches4 ,it is similar to ,no4 #ej1 excepting that the jaws are offset1 making a space five-eights inch between them4 ,this allows the springs to come up higher when the bear's foot is in the trap and thus secure a better grip4 ,the chance of breaking the bones in the foot are also lessened4 ,weight1 #aa #a_/d pounds each4 ,illustration3 ,,standard ,,bear ,,trap4 ,this trap is known as ,no4 #e or ,black ,bear4 ,the spread of jaws is #aa #c_/d inches4 ,weight of trap #ai pounds4 ,it is furnished with a very heavy and strong cable chain4 ,bear trappers whether in the ,canadian ,wilds1 the ,swamps of the ,southern ,states or among the ,rocky or ,appalachian ,mountains1 speak of the ,no4 #e as the ,standard ,trap4 ,they are used principally for catching the ,black ,bear4 ,illustration3 ,,regular ,,bear ,,trap ,,with ,,offset ,,jaws4 ,this trap is known as ,no4 #ae1 spread of jaws #aa #c_/d inches4 ,to meet the views of certain trappers whose judgement is respected1 the manufacturers designed a style of jaw for the ,no4 #e trap1 making an offset of #c_/d of an inch so as to allow the springs to come up higher when the bear's leg is in the trap4 ,this gives the spring a better grip4 ,this trap weighs about #ai pounds4 ,illustration3 ,,grizzly ,,bear ,,trap4 ,this is known as the ,no4 #f or ,grizzly ,bear ,trap and has a spread of jaws of #af inches4 ,it weighs complete1 #db pounds4 ,this is the strongest trap made4 ,the manufacturers say they have never heard of anything getting out of it when once caught4 ,it is often called the ,great ,bear ,tamer4 ,this trap is also used in ,asia and ,africa for catching lions and tigers4 ,in fact the trap will hold any animal with the exception of the elephant and it will hold even that animal excepting possibly the larger ones4 ,illustration3 ,,bear ,,trap ,,chain ,,clevis4 ,this cut illustrates ,bear ,trap ,chain ,clevis and ,bolt1 intended as a substitute for the ring on the end of the trap chain1 when desired4 ,with this clevis a loop can be made around any small log or tree without the trouble of cutting to fit the ring4 ,the chain is made five feet long suitable for any clog and the prices of bear traps fitted with it are the same as with the regular short chain and ring4 ,illustration3 ,,steel ,,trap ,,setting ,,clamp4 ,there is danger attached to setting the large traps when alone in addition to its being rather difficult1 especially in cold weather1 when the fingers are stiff4 ,should the trapper be in a boat the setting is still more difficult4 ,a clamp 7as shown7 applied to each spring will1 by a few turns of the thumb-screws1 bend the springs to their places1 so that the pan may be adjusted without difficulty4 ,no4 #d clamp can be used on any trap smaller than ,no4 #d #a_/b4 ,no4 #e and #f are strong clamps1 carefully made and especially adapted to setting the large traps ,nos4 #d #a_/b1 #ej1 #aej1 #e1 #ae and #f4 ,they do away with the inconvenience and dangerous use of levers4 ,with clamps a trapper can easily and safely set these powerful traps4 ,these clamps also come handy about the camp for other purposes4 ,,chapter ,,vii4 ,,double ,,and ,,web ,,jaw ,,traps4 ,no trapper should go into the woods without providing himself with an outfit of traps to meet any of the varying emergencies that are likely arise4 ,for instance1 along a deep stream it is generally easy to arrange a common trap so that by drowning the animal it will answer every purpose1 but in a very small or shallow stream this is sometimes a difficult thing to accomplish4 ,in such a case if the trapper has provided himself with a ,webbed or ,double ,jawed ,trap his chances of finding the game awaiting him on his return will be greatly increased4 ,for a dry land set1 especially on skunk1 the ,double ,jaw will be found very effective4 ,the fact that it catches very high up and also entirely prevents self-amputation is greatly in its favor4 ,for foxes1 which are often taken by the dry land method1 the ,double ,jawed of a size corresponding to the regular ,no4 #a #a_/b is getting to be a very popular trap4 ,so1 as we said before1 each trapper1 tho relying mainly on the old and well tried lines1 should provide himself with a few of these odd styles and thus add greatly to his versatility of resources1 that he may compete successfully with the ever increasing cunning of the many four-footed fur bearers of stream and forest4 ,trappers for years have contended that certain animals would gnaw out of traps1 especially where the bone was broken by the jaws and the flesh had become numb from the pressure or from cold4 ,it is known that skunks especially will gnaw at that portion of the foot or leg below jaws of trap4 ,where trappers have a long line of traps and cannot visit them every day they thus lose a number of animals4 ,the ,webbed and ,double ,jaw prevent the gnawing out from the fact that the animal can only gnaw to the lower jaw or web and is not able to get at the flesh between the jaws or under the web4 ,another animal that these traps are especially adapted for is the muskrat4 ,this animal's legs especially the front ones1 are very tender 7both bone and flesh74 ,a trap that breaks the bone1 7unless the animal is soon drowned7 may escape by the flesh of the leg twisting off in its endeavors to get free4 ,muskrats do not gnaw off their feet as some suppose4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #ha1 ,,or ,,webbed ,,jaw ,,trap4 ,this1 the ,webbed ,jaw1 known as ,no4 #ha has spread of ,jaws of four inches4 ,this is one of the ,newhouse makes and corresponds in size to the regular ,no4 #a ,newhouse4 ,if trappers will observe the cross section of the jaws1 as illustrated at the left1 it is plain the animal can only gnaw off its leg at a point quite a distance below the meeting edges of the jaws4 ,the flesh above the jaws as well as below will swell making it impossible for the animal to pull the leg stump out of the trap4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #ia1 ,,or ,,double ,,jaw ,,trap4 ,this1 the ,double ,jaw1 is manufactured in two sizes2 namely1 #ia with spread of jaws of #e #a_/d inches2 ,no4 #ia #a_/b with spread of jaws of #f #a_/d inches4 ,the ,no4 #ia correspondent in size to the regular ,no4 #a ,newhouse1 while the ,no4 #ia #a_/b corresponds to the regular ,no4 #a #a_/b ,newhouse with the exception of the jaws4 ,the ,double ,jaw traps are so constructed that they catch the animal high up on the leg4 ,it is no uncommon occurrence for the trapper to find mink and other small animals dead when caught in this trap by the fore foot4 ,it is supposed that the circulation of blood thus retarded stops the action of the heart4 ,these traps are set the same as other steel traps1 and directions given elsewhere apply to these as well4 ,while the ,webbed and ,double ,jaw traps were little known prior to #aije1 trappers have been quick to see the advantage derived from using them4 ,the ,double ,jaw has taken even better than the ,webbed ,jaw4 ,the manufacturers had expected skunk trappers largely to be the buyers and this would include roughly speaking the section east of the ,rocky ,mountains1 south of ,manitoba and ,quebec and north of the ,states bordering on the ,gulf of ,mexico4 ,but the demand sprung up from all parts of ,america4 ,this shows that trappers are finding these traps good ones for other animals than skunks and muskrats for which they were especially designed4 ,the fact that trappers found out about these traps so quickly is due largely to that up-to-date trappers' magazine--,hunter-,trader-,trapper1 published at ,columbus1 ,ohio1 and which reaches trappers in all parts of ,america4 ,the ,oneida ,community1 ,ltd41 ,oneida1 ,n4 ,y41 manufacturers of these traps were and are liberal users of advertising space in the ,hunter-,trader-,trapper to let trappers know of improvements in the trap line that are of value to them4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,morning ,,catch ,,of ,,skunk4 ,if you have never tried any of the ,no4 #ha1 which is the ,webbed ,jaw1 or ,nos4 #ia or #ia #a_/b1 the ,double ,jaw1 we feel sure that you are not familiar with traps that will increase your catch4 ,we believe that all trappers should have at least a few of these traps4 ,,chapter ,,viii4 ,,victor ,,and ,,hawley ,,norton ,,traps4 ,in the ,victor is a good trap considering the cheap price at which it is sold and as the manufacturers say3 ,is the most popular trap in the world4 ,while professional trappers use largely the ,newhouse1 yet in thickly settled sections and where trappers are constantly bothered by trap lifters1 the ,victor is much used4 ,while the trap is sold at a very low price1 yet it is the best trap manufactured in the regular or long spring trap1 with the exception of ,newhouse1 or ,h4 ,n4 ,the ,victor is manufactured in six sizes and each is adapted to the following use3 ,no4 #j1 rat or gopher2 ,no4 #a1 muskrat2 ,no4 #a #a_/b1 mink2 ,no4 #b1 fox2 ,no4 #c1 otter2 ,no4 #d1 beaver4 ,the ,nos4 #j1 #a and #a #a_/b are single spring2 ,nos4 #b1 #c and #d1 double4 ,the illustration showing ,no4 #a represents also ,nos4 #j and #a #a_/b as they are different only in size4 ,the illustration showing ,no4 #d represents ,nos4 #b and #c also as they are different only in size4 ,these traps are not so strong in any part as the ,newhouse and trappers should bear this in mind when setting for the various animals4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #a1 ,,victor ,,trap4 ,the ,no4 #a #a_/b known as the mink trap is also a splendid muskrat trap1 having greater spread of jaws than the ,no4 #a and being heavier than the ,no4 #a is just right to catch and drown rats4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #d1 ,,victor ,,trap4 ,the ,nos4 #b1 #c and #d are all double spring and made for fox1 otter and beaver and while trappers catch large numbers of these animals in ,victor traps1 yet the more experienced ones prefer the ,newhouse traps even at the advanced price4 ,the ,victor is used largely for taking the smaller fur bearers4 ,it is sold in large quantities in all parts of the ,united ,states and ,canada4 ,the ,hawley ,norton is made only in six sizes3 ,nos4 #j1 #a and #a #a_/b single spring2 ,nos4 #b1 #c1 and #d1 double spring4 ,a lighter grade of stock is used in manufacturing these traps so that they can be made somewhat cheaper than the ,newhouse and altho not as strong1 they are a good reliable trap4 ,,chapter ,,ix4 ,,jump ,,traps4 ,while the ,jump ,trap has been in use in the ,eastern part of the ,united ,states for upwards of fifty years1 principally in the ,new ,england and ,sea ,coast ,states1 the use of these traps in all parts of the country did not become general until a few years ago4 ,the trap derives its name ,jump from the fact that the spring is so arranged that when the trap is touched off or sprung by an animal or otherwise1 it ,jumps1 thus catching the animal high up on the leg4 ,trappers that have not used these traps express doubts of their ,jumping and catching high on the animal's leg1 but hundreds of letters received by the manufacturers from trappers and also published in the ,hunter-,trader-,trapper prove that they do ,jump4 ,the manufacturers claim these points in their favor4 ,they are somewhat lighter than the regular form of double spring traps and the trapper going far into the woods can carry a greater number2 they set much flatter2 can be set in smaller space2 springs are out of the way as no spring extends beyond the jaws2 pans are large so that no animal can step between the jaws without springing the trap4 ,the traps are set much the same as other steel traps4 ,the ,b4 ,l4 trap is manufactured in six sizes1 viz2 ,nos4 #j1 #a and #b1 single spring2 ,nos4 #b #a_/b1 #c and #d double spring4 ,some years ago the ,oneida ,community1 ,ltd41 ,oneida1 ,n4 ,y41 began manufacturing a ,jump trap which is known as the ,oneida ,jump4 ,this trap has a new style of jaws4 ,the old style was made of thin steel whereas these have full1 wide-faced jaws1 so that the chances of breaking the bone in the leg are lessened4 ,this trap has a chain attachment1 fastening at the end of the jaw opposite the spring1 so that when the animal is caught and struggles to get free the foot is only gripped the tighter4 ,the trapper1 however1 can fasten the chain on the end of the crossbar1 opposite dog1 as there is a hole drilled there for that purpose4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #a1 ,,oneida ,,jump4 ,the ,oneida ,jump is manufactured in nine sizes4 ,this illustration shows a ,no4 #a4 ,it is a single spring as are also ,no4 #j and #b2 the other sizes have double springs4 ,illustration3 ,,no4 #d1 ,,onedia ,,jump4 ,these sizes1 ,no4 #j to ,no4 #d1 are adapted to catching the various animals with the exception of timber wolves and bears1 altho the larger sizes are used for taking the coyote and small wolf4 ,the sizes adapted for the various animals are3 ,no4 #j1 rat and gopher2 ,no4 #a1 muskrat2 ,no4 #b1 mink2 ,no4 #b #a_/b1 coon or skunk2 ,no4 #ab #a_/b1 same as #b #a_/b1 with teeth2 ,no4 #c1 fox or otter2 ,no4 #ac1 same as ,no4 #c1 with teeth2 ,no4 #d1 otter or wild cat2 ,no4 #ad1 same as ,no4 #d1 with teeth4 ,the ,no4 #b is a splendid mink trap from the fact that it takes little room and can be set in many places where the end spring cannot be placed to advantage4 ,the ,no4 #b for mink and the ,no4 #b #a_/b for coon are much used at log sets as they lie so flat that but little cutting is required4 ,the ,no4 #b is also coming into use as a marten trap especially for log and notched tree sets4 ,the arrangement of the springs is such that the ends only extend about an inch beyond the jaws so that the double spring sizes even1 do not take nearly as much room to set as the regular or end spring trap4 ,it makes no difference what kind of a set is to be made--water1 land or snow1 the fact that this make of trap takes but little room and lies very flat1 should not be lost sight of4 ,this sometimes is quite an advantage4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,jump ,,trap ,,trapper4 ,the most successful trappers are those who use some of the various styles of traps for there are certain sets where each can be used to the best advantage4 ,the ,jump ,traps are moderate priced and being light and strong for their size1 trappers are taking to them1 finding that for certain sets they have no equal4 ,no trapper should start out for the season without some ,jumps4 ,,chapter ,x4 ,,tree ,,traps4 ,experienced trappers fully appreciate the importance of having a trap that when the animal is caught1 it is caught to stay1 and instantly killed instead of being held a captive by the foot or leg4 ,many fully realize the importance of a humane trap that will accomplish this1 and have found many good points in the ,tree ,trap4 ,most practical trappers know that one of the most successful ways to set steel traps for many kinds of animals1 is to suspend the bait about two feet over the trap1 compelling the animal to step on the pan of the trap in order to get at it4 ,this may be very good1 but in case of a heavy snow fall1 a set of this kind means that your trap is snowed under1 and you not only experience great difficulty in locating your trap1 but often are unable to do so at all until spring1 or when the snow disappears4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,tree ,,trap4 ,in order that readers may fully understand how the ,tree ,trap is used1 two sketches are shown4 ,one showing the trap set1 with a mink approaching2 the other one having caught ,mr4 ,coon1 and killed him instantly1 not damaging the fur4 ,this trap can be securely nailed to a tree1 stump or stake1 and should be at least two feet from the ground1 though always in sight and easy to get to4 ,in case of deep snow all you have to do is to bend the nails around1 loosening the trap and renail it a few feet higher up4 ,how to ,set4 ,if possible find a suitable tree over a den or close to a runway4 ,leave the trap set with the safety hook holding it 7don't spring the trap unless nailed securely71 place against the tree1 two or three feet from the ground2 mark the distance between the lower notches in the base of trap on the tree4 ,then drive two nails 7six or eight-penny will do7 leaving enough of the nail head so the two bottom notches will hook over the nail heads tightly1 then drive the nails in the two upper notches as far as they will go4 ,this will fasten the base of the trap tightly to the tree1 which is important4 ,next bait the hook2 seeing that the bait is secure2 some tie it on with a string or thread4 ,now release the safety hook and your trap is ready4 ,some trappers prefer to throw some dead grass1 leaves or boughs on top of the trap1 which help to conceal it1 this is a good idea4 ,a piece of a rabbit1 squirrel1 bird or chicken makes a splendid bait4 ,fish is good for mink4 ,one great advantage of ,tree ,trap over many other traps is that when it catches the animal1 it not only holds1 but kills it4 ,while traps should be looked after every other day in good trapping weather2 with the ,tree ,trap twice a week will do without the game escaping1 as is often the case with common steel traps1 but you cannot afford to take chances4 ,of course1 in very warm weather1 traps should be looked at more frequently4 ,on the other hand1 during very severe weather1 the trapper need not make the rounds more than once a week4 ,this is important to the trapper who has a long line of traps out4 ,trappers should by all means have some ,tree ,traps among their outfit1 in fact1 as already mentioned1 the most successful trappers have a supply of all kinds of traps4 ,illustration3 ,,tree ,,trap ,,set ,,and ,,animal ,,approaching4 ,illustration3 ,,animal ,,killed ,,in ,,tree ,,trap4 ,the ,tree ,trap does not weigh as much as a steel trap required to catch the same size animals1 and when set secured by safety hook1 they are compact2 occupying very little space4 ,these traps are made by the ,animal ,trap ,co41 ,lititz1 ,pa41 and are highly recommended for marten4 ,tree ,traps are manufactured in four sizes adapted to catching the following animals3 ,no4 #j the smallest size1 for weasel2 ,no4 #a1 for mink1 marten1 and civet2 ,no4 #b1 for skunk and opossum2 ,no4 #c1 for coon1 fisher and wild cat4 ,this trap can be used to splendid advantage during deep snows as it can easily be set against the side of a tree at any height the trapper desires1 thus proving what has been said before1 that the most successful trapper has some of all kinds of traps4 ,the greatest field for the ,tree ,trap is the ,north1 yet trappers in the ,central and ,southern ,states are already using them to a considerable extent for coon and opossum2 also for skunk and mink4 ,,chapter ,,xi4 ,,stop ,,thief4 ,,stop ,,thief ,,traps are manufactured by the ,animal ,trap ,co4 ,a great deal has been said for and against this trap1 but like all traps1 one must know how to use them4 ,trappers that have taken the trouble to learn how to set them report good results4 ,a great many that were quick to condemn them at first now praise them highly4 ,the manufacturers say the ,no4 #a is for squirrels2 ,no4 #b1 for mink and marten2 ,no4 #c1 for skunk and opossum2 ,no4 #c #a_/b for fox and raccoon2 ,no4 #d1 for wolves4 ,but we think the larger sizes should be used for mink and skunk4 ,in trapping for mink1 fish1 bird or muskrat is the best bait but a hungry mink will eat almost any kind of fresh meat4 ,when convenient1 scatter dry grass or leaves over the trap but do not cover the hole4 ,if no hole is found1 make one or two in earth or snow4 ,fasten the trap with a chain or piece of wire to a stake or drag of some kind1 when near the water4 ,no fastening is needed if there is no water near4 ,find where the raccoon1 skunk1 civet cat1 opossum1 etc41 frequent and set the trap in the same way as for mink4 ,bait with bird1 chicken and the like4 ,oil the working parts of trap to prevent rust4 ,illustration3 ,,stop ,,thief ,,trap4 ,the ,stop ,thief ,trap is thought very highly of by some trappers for use in a peculiar situation and like the ,new ,tree ,trap1 tho not as yet well known1 it is likely to prove a very effective machine in the hands of men who know how to use it4 ,i procure a crotched stick1 writes a ,pennsylvania trapper1 the prongs of which are about #a #a_/d to #a #a_/b inches in diameter and of sufficient spread to fit the trap with which they are to be used4 ,i send a drawing which will make it plainer than a page of description4 ,the best way of setting a trap thus equipped will readily suggest itself according to the place selected4 ,illustration3 ,,method ,,of ,,setting ,,stop ,,thief ,,trap4 ,when setting at a hole which the animal is known to be in1 the wood part or crotch may be placed next the hole or ground and there will not be much of the iron of the trap exposed to the animal as it comes out4 ,or1 if setting where the animal is expected to come and enter the hole1 the trap would be best placed with the wood out4 ,with the latter set one would have to be careful to place the trap so that nothing would interfere with the working4 ,traps thus rigged will1 of course1 weigh more than the bare trap and are more bulky and cumbersome1 but where one is trapping in a timbered country the crotch need not be cut until upon the ground where it is to be used1 or if in a section where timber is scarce1 could be placed beforehand where it is to be used1 just as one would do with stakes1 rocks1 drags1 or clogs1 spring poles and the like1 when setting steel jaw traps4 ,dry timber could be used instead of green which would lighten materially4 ,however1 ,i prefer the heavier1 as ,i think it holds the trap more firmly in place1 thus requiring less fastening4 ,small wire is best to fasten the trap to the crotch as mice and squirrels will cut twine4 ,while ,i feel that the ,stop ,thief will never begin to equal any steel jaw trap1 ,i think there are times when it may be used to advantage1 and ,i expect to try mine again the coming season and expect to do better with them than last season4 ,,chapter ,,xii4 ,,wide ,,spreading ,,jaws4 ,occasionally ,i see in ,h-,t-,t1 trappers advocating a large spreading trap1 writes an experienced ,canadian trapper1 and some even go so far as to invite the trap manufacturers to make still wider ones than are now on the market4 ,my experience in trapping1 which was varied and extended over a number of years1 is that it's a mistake to have a trap that catches the animals too high up4 ,the best and most enduring hold a trap can have on an animal is the paw or just above where it joins the bottom of the leg4 ,i have found this with beaver1 foxes1 marten1 lynx1 bear1 and in fact all animals ,i have caught4 ,just above and the paw itself is a mass of sinews and muscle enveloped with a stronger skin than any part of the leg1 and therefore must give more resistance4 ,i have found a fox that was caught in a ,no4 #b ,newhouse after three nights' struggle as secure as if newly seized4 ,the jaws having closed securely across the thick part of the forepaw4 ,illustration3 ,,trapper',s ,,cabin ,,and ,,pack ,,horses4 ,again from a shortness of a proper sized trap ,i once set a ,no4 #d1 for a fox4 ,the fox was caught between midnight and daylight1 and when ,i visited the trap at the latter limit 7six o'clock71 it was high time1 for another half hour of struggling and the fox would have been clear and away4 ,the jaws had caught him half way up the foreleg and snapped the bone like a pipe shank4 ,with his twisting and leaping there only remained a strip of skin and one tendon that kept him prisoner4 ,for mink ,i have found a ,no4 #j trap1 if carefully set with proper precaution1 is as good and lucky as a ,no4 #a or #a #a_/b trap1 as some trappers advocate4 ,i used a bunch on a considerable sized lake last fall4 ,the lake had numerous small creeks and rivers falling into it4 ,at the junction of these with the lake ,i set my traps4 ,they were all ,no4 #j selected on account of their lightness4 ,as there was a long carry to get to the lake from a traveled route and added to the canoe1 my gun1 blanket and provisions1 the traps were somewhat of a consideration1 and ,i therefore took the one of less weight4 ,i made two visits to the lake before it froze and got twenty mink1 one marten and a female fisher4 ,when ,i made a water set ,i saw that the bank outside went down pretty bold and ,i always tied a stone to the trap and thus insured the animal drowning4 ,where ,i set on land without fail ,i attached the chain to a tossing pole1 thereby preventing the fur being damaged by mice or the animal being eaten by some other4 ,some may question the possibility of such small traps being for any length of time in order as a water set1 but ,i must explain4 ,the lake was of considerable size and the season the latter part of ,october4 ,such a lake at that season of the year is not subject to any fluctuations in the height of water4 ,i may say in conclusion about this particular sized trap that on that trapping tour ,i only lost one mink1 ,i found the trap sprung with a single toe in the jaws4 ,the trap had been a dry set one1 and by reading the signs ,i found some snow had melted and dripped from an overhanging branch on to the junctions of the jaws4 ,this had frozen 7the trap being in the shade7 and prevented its usual activity4 ,as a consequence ,it only caught on as the mink was in the act of lifting his foot1 so ,i was satisfied it was the circumstances and not the fault of the trap that caused the missing of this mink4 ,another undesirable point about any trap is to have the springs too powerful for its intended use4 ,one only wants a trap's jaws to close up sudden enough and to hold what it catches secure against any possibility of the animal withdrawing its foot4 ,once you have this it's all that's required or necessary4 ,a trap with springs with a strength out of reason is awkward and vexatious to open1 and when the animal is caught goes on with its continued pressure until the jaws of their own action almost sever the paw or leg1 and the animal with very little struggling finishing the amputation4 ,i knew an ,indian once who had a bear trap which was not much larger in spread than a ,no4 #d trap4 ,an ordinary man by placing a foot on each spring could set it1 and yet that trap was his most reliable one4 ,he had others too1 but he took his ,davy on that4 ,it acted like that celebrated motto1 ,what we have1 we hold4 ,this trap was made from his own directions1 and he had the jaws at their inner edge three-quarters of an inch thick and bevelled off to a quarter of an inch at the outer sides4 ,as he aptly put it--,i want the trap to hold the bear until ,i go there and shoot it1 not to chop off its foot4 ,another point about a bear trap that ,i consider could be remedied with advantage to the trapper1 is to have the ordinary chains lengthened by a few links4 ,it is not always possible to place the drag stick close up to the open trap1 but where the chain is longer no difficulty would be found4 ,a few more links would add very little to the weight or cost4 ,illustration3 ,,trapper ,,making ,,bear ,,set4 ,to a lone trapper setting bear traps miles away from any human beings1 it's a tricky and dangerous job4 ,i consider a man so situated should1 as a precaution1 carry one of those patent clamps for depressing the springs1 in his pocket4 ,i am aware some do not use them1 as they consider them too slow1 preferring a couple of short levers jammed under a root and pressed down with the knees while the hands open the jaws and place the trigger4 ,others use a piece of stout cord to tie down one spring1 while with their weight on the other the jaws fall apart4 ,but accidents will happen to the most careful persons2 by some inadvertence he might get caught by the hand or thoughtlessly step into it1 and if he did not perish would have considerable difficulty in getting out1 while with a cool head and a clamp within reach he could promptly free himself4 ,i knew one man who lost his life in a bear trap and another who had almost succumbed to his suffering when found and released4 ,there are three things with a trapper's life that ,i was always extremely polite and careful with--a bark canoe1 a bear trap1 and a gun4 ,i handled these for forty years but never fooled with them4 ,had the ,indian mentioned used the celebrated ,newhouse traps1 we feel sure that he would have found no cause to complain4 ,while to some trappers the springs may sometimes appear to be too stiff1 yet the face of the jaws are wide and as the manufacturers are always in correspondence with bear and other trappers1 there is no question but that they know and are now manufacturing what meets the views of the majority of trappers4 ,we believe that of some sizes they are making the face of the jaws even wider than formerly4 ,the ,newhouse bear traps are furnished with bear chain1 clevis and bolt1 illustrated and described under ,newhouse ,traps1 but briefly described here4 ,this chain is five feet long and with clevis can be fastened around any log which the trapper will want to use4 ,one thing must be born in mind1 viz3 ,that when traps are set1 they are covered1 and should severe weather follow1 freezing this covering1 it requires a stiff spring to throw the jaws together quickly4 ,our belief is that more large animals escape from traps too weak than from the too strong ones4 ,yet there are times1 no doubt1 when had the spring been weaker and the face of the jaws wider1 the results would have been fully as satisfactory4 ,,chapter ,,xiii4 ,,caring ,,for ,,traps4 ,note that traps should be examined carefully just before being set to see if they will work properly4 ,new traps should be thoroughly greased with almost any kind of grease that has no salt in it4 ,salt will rust traps4 ,it is to guard against rust as much as anything else that you should grease your traps1 for in that condition they are not so apt to give good service4 ,if you have a supply of traps that are badly rusted1 kerosene poured over them and let stand for a few hours will tend to remove the rust4 ,after you have cleaned all of the rust off possible1 grease the trap carefully and thoroughly with some good fresh grease1 such as lard or the fat of some animal4 ,good oil will answer if you can not get the animal fat4 ,trappers can usually get an animal or two and fry the fat from it4 ,this is an easy task and with this grease your traps4 ,if this is done with old traps at the close of the season it will help preserve them4 ,it is a good idea1 also just before trapping begins4 ,illustration3 ,,washing ,,and ,,greasing ,,traps4 ,with new traps it is much more important that they be greased before setting as they will badly rust if not thus treated2 old traps that have been greased a number of times can be neglected rather than the new ones4 ,if possible it is best to attend to this several days before the traps are set1 so that a part of the grease will be dried in1 or evaporated so that in setting there will not be so much to get on your hands1 clothes1 etc4 ,in this connection it will not be amiss to say that traps should be carefully gone over before they are set1 to see that every part is in working order4 ,there may be broken links in the chain1 or other defects4 ,the swivel may be rusty and will not turn and the first animal caught is apt to break the chain4 ,many times have trappers gone to their traps only to find a part of the chain remaining as some animal had broken it and escaped4 ,all traps should be very carefully gone over and mended1 otherwise you may not only loose the trap but a valuable pelt as well4 ,what is best to apply to prevent their rusting8 writes a number of trappers4 ,almost any oil will answer1 but perhaps animal fat is best and can be obtained by trappers easily4 ,many trappers prefer to have their traps somewhat rusty1 or at least want the newness worn off4 ,it is not a bad idea to smear traps in the blood of rabbits or birds4 ,to clean your traps1 boil them in ashes and water1 rinse clean in hot water1 then dip in hot water with melted beeswax floating4 ,raise them slowly out of this so as to coat every part4 ,hang up to drain and dry and your traps are ready4 ,in what condition are your traps for beginning a vigorous campaign2 have you boiled them in soft maple bark or the husks of walnuts1 to stain and eliminate the coating of rust1 so that they will work well and be free of the animal scent from last season8 ,all second hand traps should have this attention before trapping is begun4 ,new traps will not take the stain until they have been used and rusted4 ,if it is hard for you to get soft maple bark or black walnut husks1 you can get a pound of logwood chips at the drug store which will be sufficient for a five-gallon kettle of water4 ,after a good dye is made put in what traps the liquid will cover and boil #ae or #bj minutes for each lot4 ,if the water gets low put on a pailful or so as it boils away4 ,if you only have a few traps use less coloring material and less water4 ,logwood makes a jet black4 ,illustration3 ,,putting ,,the ,,traps ,,in ,,order4 ,when the fall trapping is over1 the traps will be somewhat rusty again4 ,not many will go to the trouble to color them again in the same season1 but now that the weather is cold and the rusting process is slow and you can renovate them and lubricate in the following manner3 ,smear all the rusty and working parts with fresh lard2 also1 the chain and swivel1 and then with a wire hook or iron rod hold the trap over a small fire until the grease is melted and smokes4 ,the heat will not hurt the trap so long as you do not heat the spring too hot4 ,when the trap is cool enough to handle1 rub it well with old paper to remove loose grease and you will have a trap that will not play you false4 ,a good greasing like this will last all winter4 ,this article will not appeal to the many1 but to the few trappers who are so situated that their mode of trapping prevents them in bringing home their traps when the season is over4 ,a man who has a long line of traps set out is often at loss as to their disposal for the summer months4 ,to pack out on one's back a weight of iron at a season when walking in the bush is at its worst1 especially if the trapper is to return and set up the same line the next season1 is a useless labor and a heart and back breaking job4 ,illustration3 ,,traps ,,and ,,trapper4 ,to avoid this the best way is to cache them in bunches were they are to be used again4 ,this ,i know is a risky plan where ,john ,sneakum prowls the bush1 yet it can be done in safety if one takes proper precaution to rub out his trail4 ,the caching of them is not the only question to be considered but also to leave them hidden in such a way that when next required they may be at once serviceable for immediate use4 ,my first venture at leaving them in the bush says a ,northern trapper was in this way4 ,i began at the furthest end of my line and gathered them till ,i had twenty4 ,these ,i tied securely together with a piece of twisted bale wire through the rings4 ,i then stepped off the main line to a clump of evergreens and bending a sapling down bow fashion1 secured the bunch to the top and let the tree fly back to its place4 ,regaining the main line ,i took a memorandum in my note book as to the cache something like the following3 ,cache ,no4 #a--;,bunch of twenty ,no4 #a traps1 left opposite rotten stump on left hand side of road in thicket of evergreens1 about thirty paces away1 and so on with each deposit always mentioning some land mark as a guide to my finding them the next autumn4 ,well1 this mode was not a success4 ,it was alright as far as the safety of the traps were concerned1 but ,i found them in a frightful state of rust from the action of the rain and atmosphere1 and it took an hour of my time at each cache to rub them into a semblance of cleanliness4 ,moreover1 there was a remote possibility of a bush fire running over that territory1 which1 while it might not consume the traps1 the action of the flames would have drawn the temper from the springs to a degree that would have made them useless4 ,the accidental leaving of an otter trap set all summer led me to caching my traps under water1 that is those that ,i could conveniently carry to a lake or river4 ,this otter trap when ,i came to it the following fall was covered with a light fluffy rust the color of yellow ochre4 ,it stained my hands like paint1 but was readily washed off4 ,i held the chain in my hand and by sousing the trap up and down several times in the water1 was surprised to see the metal come as clear as when first the trap left the shop4 ,i therefore1 ever afterwards hid those traps that were near a lake or river in the water4 ,there were traps1 however1 which were too far from water to be easily transported and as the tree tops were voted bad1 ,i set to considering other modes of storing them4 ,the atmosphere being too corroding ,i decided to bury them underground4 ,the result was that the next autumn ,i found those that were in clay or heavy ,soil came out rusty1 while those in sandy soil were very little acted upon1 but the best conditioned were those hidden under rotten leaves or vegetable matter1 so ever afterwards ,i kept my traps either in the water or hidden under the last conditions4 ,when leaving a bunch in the water ,i simply tied the bunch together1 went a little to one side of the direct canoe route and dropped them overboard in about three or four feet of water1 being careful to have some noticeable object ashore in direct line4 ,when next required ,i merely lashed a large cod hook to a short pole1 fished them up1 took them aboard my canoe and washed the bunch clean at a portage4 ,in any case ,i do not think it is adding to the luck of a trap to have them greased and hung up in or about the house4 ,the smell imparted to them is worse than the odor of clean iron4 ,if ,i found a trap slow in snapping ,i usually rubbed a little odorless polish into the joints of the jaws and carried a rabbit's foot to use as a brush4 ,,chapter ,,xiv4 ,,marking ,,traps4 ,every trapper1 like all other classes1 have many things to contend with4 ,one of the worst1 perhaps1 is the trap stealer1 who having once found one of your traps will follow up your line and take them all4 ,if he can not find them by your tracks1 he is apt to hide close by and wait until you go the round1 then follow up and take your entire outfit of traps4 ,to be sure that they are your property you should mark each and every trap before the trapping season or just as soon as they are bought1 at any rate before they are set4 ,there are several ways to mark traps4 ,one of the easiest and best ways is with a file4 ,select your mark or marks and file on each trap4 ,several notches filed on the under side of the trap will not injure the trap and will be a good means of identifying your property1 should you ever happen upon them again4 ,place all the notches in the same position and at the same place on each trap and you have a good mark4 ,the notches may be filed almost any place1 excepting on the spring1 and they should be filed on two or three different parts of the trap4 ,should the person who stole the traps attempt to file out the notches1 you can tell from the places filed if they are your traps1 as all have been marked exactly alike4 ,illustration3 ,,marked ,,and ,,ready ,,to ,,set4 ,the trap stealer1 if he knows that they are marked with the owner's private mark1 is not so apt to take them1 for he knows that the owner1 should he find them in his possession1 can easily prove property4 ,whereas if there was no mark on the trap1 the thief could not be convicted unless seen taking them4 ,the thief also knows that if he is discovered1 his trapping grounds will be watched4 ,so having all traps marked in some way it lessens the chances of their being stolen as well as helps to identify them after they are taken4 ,by all means mark all your traps--you may happen on some of them unexpectedly that have been missing for years4 ,after you have marked a trap never trade or sell it1 as you would then not be able1 should you happen upon traps bearing your mark1 to tell whether they had been sold or stolen4 ,many trappers who lose traps by ,sneakum each year do not have them marked4 ,often your traps are stolen by some one in your own vicinity as they know they can set them4 ,how about this if your traps are stamped with your own initials8 ,the thief will know that you can identify your property1 and will not be so apt to steal as he will be afraid to set them4 ,when you mark your traps1 never sell them1 so that you know every trap bearing your initial is your property1 making no difference where found4 ,,chapter ,,xv4 ,,how ,,to ,,fasten4 ,before a trapper has much experience he loses much of his game1 after it has been caught1 by not having his traps properly fastened4 ,having his traps so securely staked that anything caught can get a dead pull is usually the way the trapper with little experience fails4 ,how many of you are still driving stakes into the ground and otherwise fastening your traps so that when an animal is caught1 it pulls on the chain8 ,in trapping for muskrat1 the stake may be used1 but for any other animal1 never4 ,even in the case of the muskrat the sliding pole is much better4 ,this device is made as follows3 ,cut a pole or bush1 say six or eight feet long1 trimming off the branches so that the ring will readily slide nearly the length of the pole4 ,on the end leave a few branches or short twigs so the ring will not slide off4 ,the other end can be stuck into the bank or tied with the small end extending out into deep water4 ,when a rat is caught1 it makes for deep water and is drowned4 ,if you use stakes to fasten your traps for muskrat1 set them out into the water as far as possible so that your game cannot get to the land and will soon drown4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,sliding ,,pole4 ,the proper way to secure your trap1 when trapping for other animals than muskrat1 is to drive the staple into a small bush as shown in illustration1 or the chain can be looped around the bush near the end1 with a branch or two left on to keep the chain from slipping off4 ,the size of the bush can be determined from the sized animals you are trapping4 ,if there are no bushes convenient1 a piece of fence rail or chunk will answer1 altho these will not give so readily as the bush1 which will move easily with each and every lunge of the animal caught so that its chances of getting out of the trap are lessened4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,staple ,,fastening4 ,when your trap is thus fastened1 the game will often get several feet or perhaps rods away from the den1 but it is an easy matter to find the trap and game4 ,if in an open field1 a glance around will usually find the bush and game1 while if in the woods1 a trail will be left that can easily be followed4 ,the important fact that traps thus fastened give with each and every pull and struggle of the animal should not be overlooked2 in fact1 if the trap has not a firm hold1 the bush gives so easily that there is no chance for the animal to get a dead pull--that is1 a solid one4 ,see that all traps are fastened as above described and one of the principal causes of failure will have been remedied to a great extent and your game will not get away after once being caught4 ,in case a trapper cannot visit his traps very often1 or he is annoyed by the presence of those animals that are liable to destroy his catch1 the use of the spring pole for dry land trapping will be found very efficient in preventing the loss of game4 ,this contrivance is designed to lift the trapped animal high in the air and thus both hamper it in its efforts to escape and prevent other animals from devouring it4 ,it is made as follows3 ,if possible1 select a standing sapling for the purpose4 ,if this cannot be done1 then cut a pole from some elastic wood1 trim and drive it firmly in the ground1 then fasten the trap chain to the upper end4 ,now bend down and catch the small end under a notched peg or root in such a way that the least struggle of an animal in the trap will release the pole and lift him high in the air4 ,of course the trapper will proportion the strength of his pole to the size of his intended victim4 ,all trappers have experienced a feeling of regret when visiting traps where game has been caught and escaped4 ,the ones who properly fasten traps seldom have their game escape1 altho occasionally1 when not securely caught and the trapper does not make his rounds often1 an animal will get away4 ,illustration3 ,,shallow ,,water ,,set4 ,for a shallow water set we commend the one shown above4 ,place a second stake eight or ten inches from the fastening stake having short stubs on both and the animal will soon wind himself up around the two and drown4 ,,chapter ,,xvi4 ,,how ,,to ,,set4 ,here is a very difficult question1 ,how to ,set8 yet by carefully noting the illustrations in this chapter we believe that many will be benefited1 especially inexperienced trappers4 ,some trappers have continued to set their traps1 after years of experience with springs sticking straight out1 that is1 so that the animal will step upon the spring first4 ,this often warns them of the danger4 ,others set traps without a sign of covering4 ,in each instance they may catch a few rabbits and perhaps a skunk or two1 but they are not trappers and will not catch much game4 ,having decided where you are going to set1 if at a den1 make an excavation the size of the trap and about an inch deep1 place the trap in the position 7just at the entrance of den7 and so that an animal in going in or coming out will not step on the spring but on the pan of the trap4 ,the trap should be in such a position that the animal will approach if preferably from the end opposite the spring4 ,if the whereabouts of the animal cannot be determined1 then the next best way for him to approach is from the spring end of the jaws1 the spring always being thrown around towards the cross piece1 out of the way4 ,illustration3 ,,hole ,,set ,,before ,,covering4 ,if setting in a path in a run beside a log or a similar situation1 set the jaws endways1 not across the path and bring the pan a little to one side of the center1 as near as you can judge where the animal will place his foot as he steps over the stick1 stone or other object you have prepared for the purpose4 ,many trappers place traps well back in the den1 but our experience has taught us not to do this4 ,a trapper who has followed the tracks of an animal1 in the snow1 has undoubtedly noticed that he went to scores of dens but turned away after going to the mouth of most of them4 ,from this it will readily be seen that a trap set well back in the den would not be disturbed1 while set as shown would perhaps have caught the animal4 ,after the trap is set1 leaves1 moss1 grass1 etc41 should be carefully placed over the trap and chain1 so that everything will appear as natural as possible4 ,in covering traps1 use whatever kind of material that was in mouth of den1 that is1 if the den was filled with leaves1 cover the trap with leaves1 etc4 ,in this illustration the trap is purposely left uncovered so that trappers can see the position the trap should be in4 ,illustration3 ,,another ,,hole ,,set ,,before ,,covering4 ,if there are other entrances to the den they should all be closed1 with the exception of the one where the trap is set4 ,the only time that it is advisable to close all entrances is when you are sure that an animal is within4 ,you are only sure of this when your dog has holed an animal1 or you have tracked one in the snow into the den4 ,there may be times1 however1 when you have your traps baited and the bait has been taken from the inside4 ,in such cases you feel confident that the game is within4 ,at such times it may be the best policy to close up the entrance and set your trap within1 yet1 if properly set1 you are reasonably sure to make a catch when the animal ventures out and also have a chance to make a catch1 should an animal happen along on the outside4 ,traps should be set carefully and everything around the den left as natural as before setting4 ,dig a hole for your trap and carefully cover trap and chain with dirt1 leaves or grass4 ,be careful that nothing gets under treadle of trap4 ,after once setting traps1 go only near enough to see that they are not sprung or containing game4 ,illustration3 ,,hole ,,set ,,after ,,covering4 ,when setting trap in wet earth1 place paper1 cat tail1 dry leaves1 grass or some substance under trap so that during freezing weather the earth will not freeze to spring and jaws1 thus preventing its springing when an animal steps on the treadle4 ,a little wool or cotton placed under treadle often keeps the dirt from getting under4 ,it pays to set traps well--in fact too much pains cannot be taken4 ,i often read of the disappointments of a trapper when visiting his line of marten traps to find ermine1 squirrels1 blue-jays and even mice caught in place of the animal he intended to catch4 ,now this is very vexatious1 as the marten has departed for a district quite distant and is thus lost forever to him4 ,an ,indian or a regular trapper that knows his business always puts a spring twig under the pallet of his trap of sufficient strength to bear up the weight of these small fry and yet not too strong to prevent the larger animals from setting it off4 ,in trapping for beaver and otter in open water we always use the spring to prevent mink and musquash from getting caught4 ,of course these are fur-bearers and proportionately valuable1 yet there are times one does not wish to have them in the trap4 ,even in setting bear traps a spring under the pallet is used to prevent foxes1 lynx1 fishers and marten from springing it4 ,this is doubly necessary in setting bear traps for the reason that when one has bear traps set the foregoing animals are unprime and consequently of next to no value4 ,the spring for a ,no4 #a or a ,no4 #a #a_/b trap is made from a lower small branch of a balsam or tamarack tree4 ,why ,i say lower branches is because it is not so full of gum and suppleness as the top branches1 while not actually dry1 it is sufficiently so to impart a spring effect4 ,illustration3 ,,wrong ,,position ,,set4 ,it is broken off about four inches in length and freed of needles4 ,one end is introduced into the eye of the spring and the other end is deflected over and under the trap pan4 ,by moving it out towards the outer part of the pan a greater strength and resistance can be obtained--lessening by pushing it the contrary way4 ,for beaver or otter traps we usually take the root of a small spruce or tamarack1 and for a bear trap1 instead of putting one end into the eye of the spring1 we cut a shorter and stouter piece and bend it over like this and it is placed under the pan2 the two ends are carefully flattened and squared off to prevent slipping4 ,after a little practice a man becomes quite an expert as to the proper tension required and it is very rarely a real trapper catches anything but what the trap was set for4 ,this article is written for the benefit of beginners in the profession of trapping and not as a reflection on the knowledge of ,old ,pards4 ,a splendid all around covering for traps wherever available 7and ,i speak from experience7 is hemlock fanlike tips1 writes a ,new ,york state trapper4 ,use only the flat spreading ends with thin stems to blanket trap--a single layer is enough for all practical purposes4 ,this is the general purpose covering1 suitable for all kinds of weather4 ,the strong natural scent of the hemlock seems to inspire confidence1 overcoming animal fear and caution4 ,it neutralizes and makes harmless all unnatural scents so obnoxious to wild animals and prevents under pan obstruction4 ,during the snowy weather1 roof over the trap with brush1 hemlock boughs1 bark or such1 with openings on all sides4 ,build the roof high and wide enough to sufficiently protect the trap and covering from snow and sleet4 ,a good trapper uses only good traps4 ,i will describe a few of my sets and hope they will be of value1 writes a ,rocky ,mountain trapper4 ,the first will be a mink set and1 like the rest1 is best prepared during the summer1 then by the time trapping begins the newness is all gone4 ,set ,no4 #a is easily made by bending a few green willows in the shape of the letter ,u2 stick them in a row six inches apart so the top of the bow will be four or five inches from the level4 ,cut some brush and pile on top and a stake or two driven in will keep it from going away in a freshet4 ,this can be made in the water at a riffle or on the bank of the stream and you will be surprised to note the fine runway you have made4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,three ,,log ,,set4 ,set ,no4 #b is on the same principle1 but is made of logs #h inches in diameter and #e or #f feet long4 ,it can be cut on the dotted lines for convenience in placing bait4 ,set a ,no4 #a #a_/b or #b trap at each end4 ,this is as good as a hollow log4 ,illustration3 ,,marten ,,shelf ,,set4 ,no4 #c is a marten shelf4 ,like cut1 make by nailing a #b-;inch stick three or three and a half feet long on each side of a tree and cover the projecting ends with bark--use a weight on bark to keep it from blowing away2 nail bait and place trap as shown4 ,use a spring pole of some description4 ,illustration3 ,,big ,,game ,,set4 ,no4 #d is my favorite for bear1 mountain lion and in fact all larger game4 ,choose two trees near together and place a pole from one to the other on which to hang the bait2 #a is bait the height of which should be varied according to the game sought and #b is the pole on which bait is hung2 it can be nailed on or laid in forks4 ,in setting steel traps the beginner is generally very careless4 ,he simply sets his trap on the bare ground1 brushes a few leaves over it and stakes it fast1 or staples it fast to a stump or tree4 ,as a rule he finds that the wind has blown the leaves off his trap1 leaving it bare1 or it has frozen fast to the ground1 or if it has made a catch the game has escaped4 ,in setting a steel trap1 dig a hole an inch deep and the size and shape of the trap when set4 ,line this hole with dry leaves and set the trap in it1 filling in between the jaws with dry moss and covering with dry1 light substance in keeping with the surroundings4 ,for trapping the shyer animals the smell of iron should be destroyed1 which may be done by boiling the trap in cedar or hemlock tips4 ,the trap should be covered with these tips so that trap and bed all smell alike4 ,do not make any tracks or have the bushes or grass trampled down around the trap4 ,animals are more afraid of human signs than they are of human scent1 at least ,i have found it so4 ,in setting the trap1 be sure that the jaws lie down solid or the animal may tip the trap over by stepping on a jaw and you will think that you have a very cunning animal to deal with4 ,if the trap is set at a den or enclosure1 turn the spring to one side so the animal will not step on the spring4 ,i prefer the ,blake pattern trap as the trap may be set with the spring pointing straight out from the enclosure and the animal steps between the jaws1 not over them4 ,be sure1 when setting at a den or covered enclosure that the opening over the trap is large enough to allow the animal to walk over the trap1 for if they must crawl over it they are apt to snap the trap by pressing against it and all the trapper finds is a little bunch of fur4 ,in setting traps on dry land do not stake it down as the game will often escape by pulling its foot out of the trap4 ,it is much better to fasten the trap to a brush drag4 ,i leave a good stout prong near the big end of the brush4 ,bend this prong down and slip the ring over it4 ,illustration3 ,,ring ,,or ,,loop ,,fastening4 ,when making a water set ,i stake the trap into the water full length of the chain4 ,if the water is deep use the sliding pole4 ,if you are trapping muskrats1 clean out all snags and brush from around the trap or the rat may cut its skin in its struggles1 which will lessen its value4 ,here is a method of drowning the beaver and otter which was told me by an old trapper4 ,take a good stout wire about eight or ten feet long and fasten it to the end of the trap chain4 ,a heavy stone is tied to the chain of the trap and after the trap is set the wire is stretched up or down stream and fastened to a stake driven in the bank under water4 ,when the game is caught it plunges into the water and the weight of the stone and trap pulls it down to the bottom4 ,the trap and game are secured by pulling up on the wire4 ,i have never used this method1 but think it would be all right4 ,if the trap is a bolt double spring1 place the trap on the knee and press down spring and insert a nail--six or eight penny will do--under the jaw on the opposite side from the trigger or trip1 being careful to insert far enough to hold and not slip out4 ,then set same as a single spring trap4 ,if the trap has the slip in jaws1 drill a small hole in the bottom piece just below the holes which the jaws are in for a nail4 ,one spring will hold the pan up4 ,when set1 press the other spring down and pull out the nail4 ,one trial will convince anyone that this is an easy and quick way to set a double spring trap4 ,i have never tried this on anything larger than ,no4 #d wolf trap4 ,hundreds of times have ,i said things that ,i would not say in ,church or ,sunday ,school while setting one of these traps in the snow4 ,trapper language will come forth when one pinches his fingers on a cold1 frosty morning4 ,,chapter ,,xvii4 ,,where ,,to ,,set4 ,knowing exactly where to set in all cases can not be told unless the trapping region is seen as well as each den1 but in a general way some points can be given that will prove of value4 ,favorable places to set can be made to include a number of situations4 ,by this we mean that many take a good part of their catch each season at places away from the dens or homes of animals4 ,time and again have we seen traps set along creeks1 in the woods1 at drift piles and other places where there were no dens4 ,yet these trappers knew that fur-bearing animals frequented such places4 ,a trapper always should be on the outlook for signs of game4 ,these include dung at dens1 tracks at dens and along creeks and low wet places1 feathers and bones at dens1 etc4 ,a close inspection of dens1 will also show long hairs1 if the same is used much by animals just before the fur begins to get good1 as they then shed many of the long hairs4 ,the experienced trapper knows from these just what kind of an animal is using a certain den1 and of course he knows what sized trap to use and how to proceed to set the same for the capture of the game4 ,illustration3 ,,caught ,,within ,,the ,,limits ,,of ,,chicago4 ,an important thing for all trappers to learn is to distinguish dens used by fur-bearing animals from those of rabbits1 etc4 ,this can be done in several ways3 ,long hairs of skunk1 opossum1 coon1 etc41 are frequently found in the entrance to dens2 tracks of these and other animals should be watched for2 pieces of bones and feathers near dens is also a good indication that game is in the near vicinity--at least it may be known that it has been there quite recently4 ,there is as much in knowing the locality that game frequents as there is in how to set traps4 ,the person who has made a study of the habits of fur-bearing animals knows pretty well the locality that each animal frequents4 ,by this we mean that he knows that skunks1 in the fall1 are often found in open fields1 in sink holes1 etc41 while later in the season they are found on higher land4 ,this applies to the hilly sections in particular4 ,opossum and coon he knows are apt to be found in the dense woods1 and mink along streams and swamps4 ,trappers who have long lines of traps will find that it saves time and walking to have their traps bunched2 that is1 where they set one trap1 should there be many dens1 they should set two or three more4 ,after doing this they can travel some distance before setting others1 unless extra good dens are found1 or other dens directly on their route4 ,we have known three traps1 within #ajj feet of each other all to contain game1 but this is an exception4 ,more often1 to be sure1 they are all empty when the trapper makes his round4 ,yet it often pays to have traps bunched as an animal may go to several dens and turn away but enter another only a few feet distant4 ,the trapper who has only a few traps will do best by scattering them and baiting each trap4 ,illustration3 ,,fox1 ,,wolf ,,or ,,coyote ,,trail4 ,along some bluff there may be a score or perhaps a hundred dens1 and to set a trap at each is out of the question1 with the trapper who has an abundance of traps1 as well as the one who has only a few4 ,at such places it is best to set your traps where there are the most signs4 ,traps set here should be baited and the bait placed back in the den1 beyond the trap4 ,illustration3 ,,fox1 ,,wolf ,,or ,,coyote ,,on ,,the ,,run4 ,it is not necessary to set traps in the dens to catch your game1 altho that is considered one of the best places1 for some animals have no certain dens1 but hole up for the day1 wherever daylight finds them4 ,by this we mean they enter the first den they find4 ,this being the case1 trappers who know the locality1 that is the feeding grounds of game1 are most successful4 ,should you set your trap in the entrance to some den and no animal live there or pass that way there is no chance of being rewarded for the trouble4 ,as is well known1 most fur-bearing animals are carnivorous1 feeding on flesh1 and the trapper who can locate the place1 that is the hunting grounds of the game he is trapping1 is usually successful4 ,along creeks in the mud and sand1 look for mink and coon tracks4 ,if they are found often1 their dens are not far off4 ,both of these animals are much given to traveling along creeks and low swampy land and we have seen at such a place bait nailed to a tree1 some two feet from the ground1 and a trap nicely set just beneath it4 ,the trap too1 was set in the right place1 for game was caught4 ,it may be that in your trapping rounds you will come to a den where a rabbit or some bird has been devoured4 ,often you find that it has been eaten close to the entrance4 ,here is just the place to set your trap for if the animal is not now within it is apt to return4 ,the various sets made by trappers may be divided into three classes1 known as land1 water and snow sets1 altho each can be varied to suit different cases4 ,the land set is used for all land animals and includes sets made at dens in trails1 paths1 etc4 ,illustration3 ,,muskrat ,,tracks4 ,snow sets are largely used for the shyer animals such as fox and wolf altho trappers use this set for any land animal when they think conditions right4 ,traps when set for foxes and wolves are usually set just before a snow fall1 if the trapper is enough of a weather prophet to do this4 ,the water set is used mostly for otter1 beaver and muskrat4 ,mink and raccoon are also caught in large numbers in water sets4 ,fox trappers in the ,northeast catch many foxes in springs at water sets before hard freezing weather sets in4 ,illustration3 ,,mink ,,and ,,opossum ,,tracks4 ,i will give an excellent method of trapping animals on land writes an ,ohio trapper4 ,fasten your bait to the body of a tree about a foot from the ground and near a den or other place frequented by the animals you want to catch4 ,dig up the ground at the foot of the tree and cover the loose earth with leaves1 also place your brush drag near the tree and after the animal begins to eat the bait1 set your trap right under it and about six or eight inches from the tree and fastening the trap to the brush drag4 ,replace the leaves over the trap and cover the chain with leaves or dead grass4 ,do not disturb anything around the trap but leave the drag1 etc41 just as it was before the trap was set4 ,for mink fasten the bait on the side of a log1 one end of which rests in the water and the other on the bank of the stream4 ,the bait should be at least ten inches from the ground4 ,set your traps under the bait and staple the chain to the log4 ,the first mink that comes along will pass under the log and stopping to investigate the bait will get his toes pinched4 ,the best covering for this set is dead grass1 leaves or snow4 ,the best bait for mink is the head of a fowl or a piece of fish or muskrat4 ,about trapping mink in their den2 first1 if you find a den where a mink is living1 says a trapper1 don't by any means mash the brush or grass down around the den holes1 but approach it very carefully with not less than two traps1 all set and ready to place at the mouth or entrance of the den4 ,illustration3 ,,wisconsin ,,trapper--,,knows ,,where ,,to ,,set4 ,now look sharply to see which hole the mink uses most4 ,you can tell by the leaves and the grass which are worn to a sort of chaff in the mouth or entrance of the den4 ,if you look carefully you will perhaps see three or five holes4 ,you will always see two or three holes larger than any of the rest4 ,the smaller holes are to escape by when any larger animal comes into the den4 ,if you look sharply you will notice a few inches from one of the holes another hole which he uses4 ,well1 make a bed and place your trap deep enough to be covered lightly1 just in front of this hole and so that your trap jaws will close lengthwise with the hole or the worn path4 ,never set your trap crosswise to a mink hole or run4 ,always drive your stake level1 with the ground in which your trap is set if possible4 ,now go to the hole in front of the den and set your other trap or traps in the same manner1 make just as little noise as possible while setting the traps and when leaving4 ,,chapter ,,xviii4 ,,looking ,,at ,,traps4 ,it is known to secure best results1 traps should be looked at each day and the earlier in the morning the better4 ,a trapper who has out from #ej to #aej traps scattered for a distance of ten1 fifteen or twenty miles has a good day's work before him1 but the trapper who has only a few should make his round early in the morning4 ,it may be that an animal is not securely caught and an early visit to the trap will still find your game fast1 whereas had you waited till later in the day it would have escaped4 ,illustration3 ,,profitable ,,day',s ,,catch4 ,some trappers are inclined to believe that certain animals gnaw their legs off when caught4 ,our belief1 after years of experience1 is that if an animal is caught by the leg after some hours the flesh below the jaws of the trap becomes numb and the animal begins to gnaw it4 ,if the bone is broken by the force of the jaws closing1 the chances are that the animal may after a day or so escape4 ,if the bone is not broken there is but little danger of the game getting away4 ,the animal gnaws below the jaws1 very seldom above4 ,illustration3 ,,snowshoeing ,,over ,,the ,,trapping ,,line4 ,one mistake that many trappers make is that on the first stormy or cold night of a prolonged cold spell1 they neglect their traps until warm weather4 ,experienced trappers never do this2 they know that the first night of a cold spell all animals are generally much more active than usual--they are hunting food and a good den4 ,it seems that the fur-bearing animals are forewarned about the weather1 or that instinct has endowed them with this power4 ,at any rate they are on the alert the first night before a prolonged cold spell1 and on just such nights the largest catches are usually made4 ,a night that starts in only fairly cold and later turns quite cold--the beginning of a severe spell--is the night that the professional likes to see1 or at any rate1 he is out to his traps at the first sign of day4 ,in the dead of winter it may be of little use to look at traps for most game4 ,altho some animals1 such as the mink1 fox and weasel1 do not hole up on account of cold weather4 ,skunks have been known to remain in their dens for eight weeks in winter4 ,several cases are on record where these animals have been tracked to their dens1 all entrances closed1 traps set within and no catch made for eight weeks4 ,in the ,northern sections these animals hole up in ,december and remain there until early in ,february1 unless there is a very warm spell4 ,in other sections1 in the ,south1 they continue active throughout the entire season4 ,in the ,middle and ,central ,states this animal remains in its den during severe weather only4 ,at other times skunks have been known to remain in their dens for a month1 but in such cases the animal has perhaps gone in on a rabbit1 killed it and is living off its carcass4 ,where the trapper is after otter1 beaver1 and muskrat1 and his sets are made with the sliding pole or with a wire fastened to end of chain leading to deep water so that the animal is drowned1 the traps need not be looked at daily1 for the game is dead and under water1 in which condition the fur will not be injured for some days4 ,illustration3 ,,once ,,over ,,the ,,line--,,white ,,weasel4 ,mink and coon are also caught in water sets1 and should be drowned by using the same fastenings as for the water animals4 ,it is a good idea to tie a weight to chain near the trap1 so that when the animal is caught and gets into deep water1 the additional weight helps to hold it down and so of course it drowns sooner4 ,spring poles are used in many of the ,northern ,states and ,canada1 so that when an animal is caught it is lifted several feet into the air and out of reach of other animals1 but in other sections the spring pole is little used and trappers should get over their lines of traps as often as possible1 for there is always more or less danger of the animal escaping or being destroyed by larger game4 ,the most successful trappers are those who visit their traps often4 ,in addition to loosing little or no fur after once being caught1 they keep their sets in good condition4 ,the experienced trapper knows that the first night before severe weather each winter1 his traps are much more liable to contain game than on almost any other night4 ,why is this8 ,animal instinct tells the animal that winter weather is coming1 and they travel much more just previous to cold snaps hunting food and good warm dens4 ,at this time1 too1 they go into most any den to explore it4 ,some trappers neglect their traps the first cold night4 ,this is a mistake1 for the animal often travels the first night of a cold spell as well as the night previous4 ,of course they do not travel as much the first cold night as the night previous1 but some animals not suited with the den found1 stir around another night looking for better quarters4 ,illustration3 ,,caught ,,just ,,before ,a ,,cold ,,snap4 ,this rule perhaps does not hold good for such animals as fox1 mink1 marten and other fur-bearers that keep traveling most nights during the winter1 no matter how severe the weather1 but with such animals as skunk1 coon1 opossum1 muskrat1 etc41 it does4 ,the first night of a cold spell early in the season and the first night of a warm spell during the winter1 trappers should have their traps in good order4 ,many trappers1 as soon as the trapping season opens1 set traps for all kinds of fur-bearing animals that are found on their grounds4 ,this as a rule is a mistake4 ,skunk and muskrat should be taken first1 from the fact that skunks den up with the first severe weather and muskrat are hid under the ice4 ,so trap these animals in earnest at the first of the season4 ,on the other hand1 mink and fox travel the coldest nights in midwinter as well as the warm ones2 in fact1 these two animals are most successfully trapped when some of the other fur-bearers are denned up4 ,coon1 however1 should also be trapped rather early1 as they den up early in the season1 although they come out on warm nights4 ,by ,february #aeth skunk are usually running again4 ,this applies to central sections4 ,of course ,north and ,south1 the conditions vary4 ,in the extreme south the animals keep going all winter1 while in the far ,north some den up for many months4 ,trappers must use their judgment what to trap first1 depending somewhat upon the number of trappers in their section4 ,the above is meant for the trapper who is stationed for a full season at the same place4 ,of course the trapper who is moving1 often takes any and all animals he can if the fur is prime4 ,,chapter ,,xix4 ,,mysteriously ,,sprung ,,traps4 ,in determining the length of time to have a trap set depends largely upon how many other traps you have in the vicinity and what success you are having with them4 ,it may be that a trap will remain at a den for two weeks unsprung and during the next two weeks catch two or three animals4 ,other traps may be sprung occasionally and not contain game1 but if the trapper has followed instructions as previously given there should be little difficulty in catching each and every animal that comes after the bait4 ,the trap should have the animal the first time it attempts to steal the bait1 but of course it cannot be expected to every time4 ,a good trapper will get the animal1 however1 before it fools with the bait many times4 ,if1 on visiting a trap1 you find the bait gone1 replace it and set the trap as before4 ,the chances are that on the next visit of the animal it will get caught4 ,should1 on the second visit1 the bait be gone and the trap unsprung1 the chances are that the animal is still in the den and is stealing the bait from within1 without stepping over the trap4 ,in this case1 either place the bait on the outside of trap or not use any bait for a few nights4 ,the animal will most likely soon venture out1 if you quit feeding it1 and will get caught4 ,illustration3 ,,bait ,,stealer--,,bird4 ,the ideas advanced by some that animals spring traps after turning them over1 with their noses or paws1 is all nonsense4 ,it may be possible that they do step over the trap and knock it off with their body1 thus not getting caught4 ,such cases are rare1 however4 ,you have no doubt visited your trap and found a few hairs in it4 ,on such occasions it was probably knocked off by the body of the animal4 ,it may be possible that animals have turned traps over in their endeavors to get bait with their nose or paw1 but you can rest assured that they did not know by so doing that it lessened the chance of getting caught4 ,if you can induce an animal to come and get the bait there is no doubt but that you will catch your game sooner or later4 ,in regard to traps being sprung1 it is possible they are set too easy1 and go off of their own accord1 after the trapper has left them4 ,again they may work too hard1 not going off easy enough4 ,all these things the trapper should guard against4 ,if the trap has been properly set there will be no trouble from the source just named1 and traps once set the trapper should keep away from1 as far as possible when making his rounds1 unless they are sprung1 the bait gone or contain game4 ,should traps be sprung morning after morning without catching the animal it is possible that if you move the trap1 or better still leave the one as before and set another1 you will be rewarded4 ,sometimes an animal will manage to get bait without getting caught4 ,at other times it may get bait without knocking off the trap4 ,at such times the bait is too near the trap most likely1 the animal reaching it without stepping over the trap1 or if the trap has not been properly set the animal may be going around the trap4 ,just how long a trap should be left at one place if not bothered is hard to say as so many things bear upon the question2 if the weather is cold and few animals moving they should be left much longer than if good trapping weather4 ,if the den has been a good one other years1 that is1 if you have caught game there1 then leave longer than if you never caught anything there4 ,if other traps are making catches near1 leave as long as you are trapping there unless you find a much better looking den near and have no trap with you1 then take this one4 ,illustration3 ,,northern ,,trapper ,,with ,,pack ,,basket4 ,when traps are sprung and pulled back into the den as far as the chain will allow them to go1 the chances are that the animals is still in the den4 ,on the other hand1 if the trap is dragged to the outside the game is liable to have gone away4 ,in either case it will likely be around again in a few nights1 as having once got a meal it will not be slow to make another visit4 ,if the animal was caught and only escaped after prolonged struggles is may not return for some time and possibly not at all4 ,yet when a trap is set and fastened as directed1 few animals when once caught escape4 ,here is where proper fastening comes into use2 if the trap had a fairly good hold on the animal and the trap was staked solid the game might have escaped but would be so badly injured and frightened that it might never return4 ,illustration3 ,,some ,,northern ,,furs4 ,when fastened properly to a bush or light drag1 the game rarely escapes even though the trap has only a toe hold1 unless the trapper is days in making the rounds4 ,should an animal escape when only slightly injured it is apt to soon return4 ,in many cases where game has escaped after once being caught it is not the fault of the trap but of the trapper4 ,should the bone in the animal's leg be broken and after days of endeavoring the animal frees itself there should be no blame attached to the trap1 the fault is with the trapper--he should have visited the trap sooner4 ,many trappers believe that animals become so sharp that they will turn traps over4 ,this we hardly believe4 ,at the same time trappers have set traps upside down and caught the animals4 ,this1 perhaps1 is accounted for from the fact that the animal in reaching for bait would turn the trap4 ,it is usually the case that animals will go about getting bait in a certain manner and the changing of location of trap may be the means of making a catch4 ,some years ago when trapping mink1 ,i visited a certain deadfall that was down each morning and the bait eaten4 ,the trap was reset and rebaited each time for perhaps a week1 even after making the pen smaller and the trap easier to go off1 it continued to be down and bait gone4 ,by this time ,i was anxious1 and taking a ,no4 #a steel trap ,i carefully set it on the inside of the pen1 covered it well and rebaited the deadfall4 ,on my round the next morning neither the trap nor bait were disturbed4 ,the second morning the deadfall was down and in the steel trap was a small mink--the smallest ,i ever caught4 ,this accounted for the animal being able to get inside the pen and eat the bait4 ,it was so small that when the log fell its body was entirely inside the fall4 ,i hardly think that small mink1 which was less than a year old1 knew that it would get caught unless it was inside the fall1 but its size was such that it could easily get out of danger1 and each time it ate the bait it was in the same position on the inside4 ,,chapter ,,xx4 ,,good ,,dens4 ,some trappers as soon as they have caught one animal remove their trap thinking that there is no longer any use to leave it at that den4 ,while this may sometime hold good in case of large game1 such as bear1 panther1 etc41 it does not with most animals2 in fact1 there are certain dens where trappers each season take from two to five or even more animals4 ,in the case of the larger game even they seem to scent your bait and two bears and occasionally more have been caught at the same place within a few days4 ,the fact1 as a rule1 that you have caught one animal in a den1 should not cause you to remove your trap4 ,the more animals caught at the same den the better4 ,there is a reason why certain dens are the favorite homes of animals4 ,it may be because they are dry and warm1 that there is a nice bed of leaves1 etc4 ,at any rate1 trappers know that certain dens are valuable--that each season there are animals living there--it making no difference how many have been caught the previous winter4 ,at such dens it will pay to leave your traps all the season1 that is1 if you have other traps that are catching game in the vicinity4 ,of course it would not pay to leave one trap set if you did not have others within a short distance4 ,as a rule where there is one good den of this kind there are others in the vicinity1 so that you do not want to remove from that certain section4 ,illustration3 ,,nebraska ,,trapper',s ,,one ,,night ,,catch4 ,it often happens that two trappers trap during the season on the same ground1 one in the fall and the other later in the season4 ,the second one has often taken more game than the first in the same length of time4 ,both were considered good trappers and of equal experience4 ,this only goes to show that you never know when all the game is caught2 in fact1 it never is1 for if such was the case there would be nothing left to catch another season1 yet when another season arrives the game is apparently about as numerous as ever4 ,this shows that good dens should be looked up by trappers1 if in new trapping grounds to them1 before the season opens4 ,the best time to look for signs is in the fall1 yet many a good den has been discovered by tracking animals in the snow to their burrow4 ,these extra good dens are usually located on high grounds1 at least not in swamps or very low land4 ,it is true1 however1 that on low land and along sinks and damp places there is good trapping early in the season1 but as a rule animals hunt higher and drier sections before the extreme cold weather comes4 ,this being true the best dens are most always found on high and dry ground4 ,another proof of this is the fact that when large numbers of skunk are dug out of a den it is nearly always on high and dry land4 ,illustration3 ,,night',s ,,catch ,,by ,,colorado ,,trapper4 ,that there are many excellent dens along rocky bluffs1 sandy hill sides1 and other like places1 the experienced trapper knows4 ,he also knows that along the low land in early fall is good trapping4 ,mink and coon are1 of course1 to be caught along streams at all times4 ,it is not necessary to state even to the amateur if muskrat1 beaver and otter are what the trapper is after1 that along streams is the only place to make a success4 ,days spent early in the season looking up dens where hairs1 bones1 feathers1 dung1 etc41 are to be seen1 are days well spent1 for many times has a trapper set traps at dens where within a few hundred yards were many better ones1 but not being acquainted with the locality1 he overlooked these until a snow came4 ,then he tracked an animal which led him to the dens1 otherwise he perhaps would not have discovered them at all4 ,keep your eye open at all times for good dens4 ,that a large number of animals were caught at a certain den last winter is evidence that that certain den is just the kind of a burrow they want4 ,it may be that you caught all the animals that lived there the winter before1 but others have been raised since4 ,these on their wanders for food have found the den and have found1 like their relatives of the winter before1 that it was just what they wished1 hence they1 too1 have returned for the winter4 ,at any rate1 a den that is good one season is worth more to the professional trapper than one that has never before showed signs4 ,or in other words1 if he has only one trap left and discovers a new den apparently as good as the one where the winter before he made such good catches1 you may rest assured that he will set his trap at the old den4 ,it is possible that not a single animal will be caught this season at the den where such good catches were made last season1 but this is an exception rather than the rule4 ,old trappers will tell you that they caught so many animals at this den in a certain season1 so many the next1 etc4 ,perhaps more skunk have been caught at one den in a single season than any other animal4 ,the catching of ten or twelve at a place is no uncommon occurrence in a season4 ,there are a few cases on record where trappers have caught as high as fifteen1 and one instance that we know of1 where seventeen were caught at one den from ,november to ,march #ajth4 ,this was certainly a remarkable catch4 ,illustration3 ,,both ,,trappers--,,father ,,and ,,daughter4 ,old trappers will also tell you that signs are what you should look for at all times4 ,these are not only found at dens1 but by watching everywhere2 signs found in the woods often cause the trapper to hunt for dens which are often close by4 ,good dens are not at all hard to tell by the experienced trapper1 and if you are a young trapper and can induce some experienced trapper to let you make the rounds with him or pay him to spend a day or two with you1 it will be to your advantage4 ,during the summer months when you are running around through the fields and woods fishing and hunting and having a good time1 then is the time to start the foundation for the coming season's trapping4 ,always be on the lookout for signs and learn to read ,nature's writings4 ,then when the trapping season opens1 you will know exactly where to set your traps and you will be far ahead of the other fellow that has waited till the season opens before looking over the grounds4 ,i am glad to see an awakening of the trapper for the protection of fur-bearing animals during the summer months when the fur is unprime2 also1 the protection of the animal dens4 ,in the ,june number of ,h-,t-,t1 writes an ,iowa trapper1 ,i called trappers' attention to ,johnny ,dig-em-out and his destructive method of trapping1 and ,i think every trapper that has trapped in a thickly settled country will bear me out when ,i say he has lots to do with the disappearance of the fur-bearing animals4 ,i will cite you to the buffalo for instance2 years ago the plains were covered with them1 but after the hide hunters had gotten in their work for a few years the buffalo was a thing of the past4 ,so1 brother1 let us take heed before it is too late1 or the time will soon come when trapping in the older settled parts of the country will be a very unprofitable business4 ,ten years ago in this part of the country1 skunk were very plentiful2 it was a very poor farm indeed that did not contain at least one skunk den1 but now they are about as scarce a fur-bearer as we have4 ,the ,dig-em-outs will ask1 ,does it pay to trap skunk when you find a den8 ,i say ,yes4 ,eight or ten years ago ,i tracked a skunk into a den4 ,i trapped three skunks in as many nights from that den1 and since then ,i have probably taken twenty-five from the same place1 and the den is in good condition yet1 and each winter ,i know where to go to get skunk4 ,brother1 did it pay to leave that den8 ,some say it is too slow work to trap out a skunk den2 ,i will tell you a quick way that ,i have tried with success4 ,build three or four pens near the den1 put a bait in each pen and a trap at the entrance of each4 ,i have caught as high as three in a night from one den1 that way4 ,now trappers1 let us strive the coming season1 to protect the homes of our fur-bearers1 so we can enjoy the pleasures and profits of trapping in the years to come4 ,let us take the fellow that digs out the dens aside and give him a little good advice and show him where he is working against his own good4 ,many of them are nice fellows1 but simply a little thoughtless about the future of these animals4 ,,chapter ,,xxi4 ,,the ,,proper ,,bait4 ,while baiting traps is not necessary when trapping at dens1 yet the trapper who baits his traps will catch more game than if the traps were not baited4 ,to show where a baited trap has the advantage1 we will suppose that an animal passes a den where a trap is set but not baited4 ,it is just as a notion takes the animal--it may pay a visit to the den and go in1 and again it may not4 ,if a trap is baited the chances are that if the animal passes within a few feet1 it will reach the bait4 ,bait1 whether bird1 fish1 chicken1 beef offals or rabbit1 should be fresh for most animals4 ,when trapping at dens the bait should be stuck on a short stick1 so as to keep it off the ground1 and placed back in the den1 beyond the trap some eighteen inches or two feet4 ,should the bait be gone morning after morning and the trap unsprung1 your game is pretty sure to be still in the den and living off your bait4 ,in this case it will be a good idea to change and place the bait on the outside4 ,if the animal is getting the bait from within1 you are pretty sure to make a catch within a few nights4 ,illustration3 ,,part ,,of ,,connecticut ,,trapper',s ,,catch4 ,if trapping in the woods for coon or along streams1 where they travel1 a piece of bait nailed to a tree1 some two feet from the ground1 and a trap set directly under it is not a bad set4 ,for mink1 bait can be suspended from a branch1 tied by a string1 to within say two feet of the ground4 ,to set a trap directly beneath the bait if properly done and near where these animals travel1 is a good way to take them4 ,the methods used by some trappers of placing bait on the pan of the trap should never be employed4 ,an animal in reaching for the bait will spring the trap with its nose1 and unless the trap is a very large one1 not get caught4 ,the correct place to put bait is where an animal in reaching for it1 will be apt to get one of its fore feet in the trap4 ,the way to do this can be told by a little study before setting the trap4 ,if the animal you are trapping is a small one the bait should not be placed so far beyond the trap as for a larger one4 ,should you find the bait gone when visiting your traps1 replace it at once and see that your trap is all right4 ,in nine cases out of ten1 the animal will be around again in a night or two for another meal4 ,persevere and you will get your game sooner or later4 ,seeing that your traps are kept properly baited is an important item2 also1 keeping bait as fresh as possible4 ,after the bait has been at a trap for a week if it has not been molested1 it is best to replace with something fresh4 ,do not throw the old bait away1 either hang it up1 out of reach of animals or carry it away from the den4 ,if you have plenty of fresh bait1 it will pay to replace oftener than once a week4 ,if you have a large quantity of fresh bait and have more than you can use to advantage1 on your traps1 it can be made use of1 by cutting into small pieces and testing a number of dens4 ,by this we mean putting a small piece of bait at dens you think are good or show some sign of game1 but at which you have no traps4 ,in a few days1 visit these dens again and at all where the bait is gone1 rebait and set a trap4 ,this is a very good method and has helped many a trapper to increase his catch4 ,most trappers do not take into consideration the keen scent of the animal they hope to victimize4 ,to know how to set a trap properly is far from all in the line of success4 ,to know your critter at every turn he may make and to entice him from his wonted way by means that challenges his cunning through his appetite and yet overcome that suspicion of place and the circumstances of immediate surroundings is the real acme of trappers' art4 ,to place a bait anywhere above the trap is well enough for an animal of less cunning than a fox4 ,but to challenge that cunning in a fox1 better way is to bury the bait4 ,the proper way to go about it is to make a trail by dragging through the brush or thicket a hare1 squirrel or bird1 and at the proper distances along this blind trail1 strew the feathers of some bird1 or make a bed for your bait1 no trap being set1 until you take the sign of one of your varmints4 ,notice well the approaches to your intended set4 ,to be sure of your game1 you must notice the run of more than one animal at a given place but the buried bait must be adhered to thruout your whole line4 ,a bait1 to my experience is more attractive when it is out of sight but so placed that your critter must work to reach it1 in common phrase root hog1 or die4 ,by this means the cunning of your victim is cast aside in its endeavor4 ,much depends on the patience of the trapper and his real handiwork4 ,where a set of this kind is made or contemplated1 the presence of a few feathers are the prime requisites4 ,make it appear that a carnival of flesh has taken place and that the spared remnants lie buried just beneath4 ,drawing on your game in this belief for some time before making a set1 is the proper caper4 ,illustration3 ,,eastern ,,trapper',s ,,catch4 ,if you can procure an ancient egg you have the tidbit for any varmint that may hit your track4 ,you perhaps have heard much about the so-called scents or oils4 ,they in a way are good to disguise the dreaded human odor1 but may well be dispensed with and some are entirely out of place4 ,time will obliterate any and all human odor1 providing you use your implements with tact and good judgment1 your bait will keep and it will draw better a day or two after the first set4 ,i never could teach any one much unless he went along the line with me4 ,trapping is a profession and not every one is by nature adapted for it1 but some take to it as natural as a duck to water4 ,i get three or four dead chickens and start out4 ,i place them along the bank and usually tie them to some small tree so that the head will about reach the ground4 ,i never build a pen around them4 ,i wait until something get to eating them1 and then ,i take a trap and place it directly in front of where it has been eaten1 and use more traps if necessary4 ,i have caught as many as three skunks around one chicken1--have caught more that way than any way ,i have tried4 ,brother trappers try my plan and be convinced4 ,the entrails of muskrat1 rabbit1 chicken or duck will make far better bait than the animal or bird itself4 ,in very cold weather ,i use the oil of wild duck which ,i save in the fall1 but even in using the baits ,i speak of ,i invariably dig up the ground1 unless it is a water set or a swamp set on some log4 ,in cold weather1 or in fact during the entire trapping season1 fur-bearing animals are searching for something to eat and consequently the trap that is baited is more liable to catch than one that is not4 ,fresh rabbit is an excellent bait for most animals4 ,,chapter ,,xxii4 ,,scent ,,and ,,decoys4 ,it is claimed by trappers that some methods are good while others are not4 ,i have bought nearly all of the methods put on the market and find that all are good if properly used1 says a well known trapper4 ,experience has taught me that you can catch any kind of an animal with decoy4 ,experience has also taught me that you can catch any kind of an animal without decoy4 ,my belief is that there is one decoy that is of great value1 especially in the running season1 and it is that of the famous beaver castor4 ,few animals can pass it without investigating4 ,you can1 however1 use all the decoys put together1 and if you do not set the trap properly you might as well set traps on top of a straw stack1 back of some barn1 to catch a fox1 and you will get him just as quick4 ,but if your trap is set somewhere near his haunts1 on a knoll or under vines1 at a hollow stump1 tree or hole1 and baited with a good piece of fresh bait1 you will catch just as many if not more in the fall1 than you will with the decoy4 ,illustration3 ,,caught ,,where ,,scent ,,is ,,much ,,used4 ,in winter and spring ,i prefer decoy1 although ,i have caught a good many foxes without it4 ,during winter and spring1 the main thing is to know just how and where to set the trap4 ,the best way to find this out is to study the animal you wish to catch1 then go after him4 ,a fox is almost as easy to catch as a skunk if you conceal your trap1 chain and all1 and leave things as you found them around the trap4 ,it is well to buy some good methods1 for they will give you a good idea of your work and help you get a start4 ,should you try them and fail the first time1 try again4 ,keep right at trying and after a while you will get to catching foxes4 ,there is no man that can use another man's methods as well as the discovered himself2 at least1 not until he learns them and finds out how to use them4 ,i care not how plainly the one selling his method explains it to others1 it takes practice before the best catches can be made4 99 99 99 ,about scents1 some may be good1 but most of them are worthless4 ,i sent to an old trapper for mink scent and it came in a plain tin can1 ,i used it in every way ,i could and mink would turn and go around it1 so ,i stopped using it and took to the old ,scotch scent4 ,here is the recipe for making it3 ,take two dozen minnows three inches long1 put in two quart cans filled with water and seal4 ,let stand one month in warm place1 then put on bait for mink or skunk4 ,i use no scent for mink in water sets4 ,if a mink is hungry1 writes an ,iowa trapper1 and finds bait that has been left for him1 he will pay no attention to human scent1 while if he is not hungry1 he will not take the bait1 be it ever so fresh4 ,a mink will sometimes make a trail in the fresh snow by passing several times over the same route and then never use that trail again4 ,i have also known otter to do the same4 ,i caught two mink last winter1 in a ditch1 setting my trap in the water4 ,the first night ,i caught a medium-sized mink and the third night ,i caught a small one4 ,i believe that ,i would have caught every mink that went up that ditch if it had not froze up1 and snowed so much during the time1 that ,i could not keep my traps properly set4 ,if a person sets out a line of traps in this country while there is snow on the ground1 he is simply going to a great deal of trouble to give them to some thief4 ,in trapping mink ,i watch for signs and when ,i locate a mink ,i consider it mine and it generally is4 ,if you bait a trap where you may think it is a good place to catch a mink1 it often happens that you may make a good many trips to your trap and not succeed4 ,you may say to yourself that it is human scent that keeps them away1 when perhaps there has not been a mink near your trap4 ,my advice to young trappers is not to set your traps where a mink may go1 but set it where you know he is going1 and you will find it no trick to catch mink4 ,illustration3 ,,young ,,trappers ,,discussing ,,scent4 ,in writing about ,mistakes of ,trappers an ,alleghany ,mountain trapper of fifty years' experience says3 ,the average trapper makes a mistake in listening to some one's ideas about scents for trapping an animal1 instead of going to the forests1 the fields and the streams and there learning its nature1 its habits and ways1 and its favorite food4 ,he also makes a mistake by spending much time in looking after scents1 rubber gloves to handle traps with1 and wooden pinchers to handle bait with1 instead of spending his time in learning the right way and the right place to set his trap4 ,for one little slip and the game is gone1 if the trap is not properly set4 ,we make mistakes in thinking that the fox is more sly in some states than in others4 ,not long ago ,i received a letter from a friend in ,maine asking if ,i did not think that the fox was harder to trap in some states than others1 ,now the states in which ,i have trapped are rather limited1 but ,i have trapped in ,wisconsin1 ,michigan and ,pennsylvania1 mostly ,pennsylvania4 ,i have also trapped in one or two other states and wherever ,i found the fox1 ,i found the same sly animal and in order to trap it successfully it was necessary to comply with the natural conditions4 ,illustration3 ,,teaching ,,the ,,boy ,,art ,,of ,,trapping4 ,the worst mistake of all mistakes is made by the one who uses poison to kill foxes with4 ,let me tell you of an instance that came under my observation four years ago in the southern part of this county4 ,my road was over the divide between the waters of the ,alleghany and ,susquehanna4 ,about five miles of the road lay over a mountain that was thickly wooded1 with no settlers4 ,while crossing this mountain ,i saw the carcasses of four foxes lying in the road4 ,on making inquiries ,i learned that a man living in the neighborhood was making a practice each winter of driving over the roads in that section and putting out poisoned meat to kill foxes4 ,i chanced to meet this man not long ago and ,i said1 ,charley1 what luck did you have trapping last winter8 ,his reply was1 ,not much1 only two foxes4 ,old ,shaw dogged them out of the country4 7,referring to a man who hunted with dogs47 ,i said1 ,charley1 don't you think that poison business had something to do with it8 ,he replied1 ,oh1 h--l1 there will be foxes after ,i am dead4 ,this man calls himself a trapper and is quite an extensive fur buyer4 99 99 99 ,for fox decoy1 get five or six musk glands from rats in the springtime2 put enough trout or angle worms with them to make a pint1 cork them tight and leave in the sun thru the summer1 and add the essence from one skunk 7squeeze out the essence1 don't put in the bag74 ,i have never seen a better decoy and ,i have used many4 ,you can use either one alone4 ,i have caught many foxes with trout oil alone4 ,remember the bait and scent is no good whatever as long as there remains a trace of human odor2 the whole secret is1 ,be ,careful4 ,the beaver castors or bark sacks and the oil stones are found near the vent in four sacks in both male and female4 ,in taking them out1 cut clear around them1 and take all out together with as little meat as possible4 ,the bark sacks contain a yellow substance4 ,to get the contents1 tie a string around the hole in the sacks and rub them between the hands until soft1 then cut them open and squeeze the contents into a glass jar or bottle4 ,to get the oil from the oil stone1 cut the end off and squeeze it4 ,keep separate and mix as directed3 #ast4 ,take the castor of one beaver1 add #bj drops oil of cinnamon1 #aj drops oil ,anise1 and wine of beaver to make the bait thick like mush4 #bnd4 ,take the castor sacks of one beaver1 add #g drops of oil sassafras1 #g drops ,anise1 #aj drops oil from the oil stone4 #crd4 ,take the castor sacks of one beaver1 add #aj drops of ,jamaica rum1 #e drops oil of ,anise1 #e drops oil cloves1 #e drops oil sassafras1 #e drops oil ,rhodium4 #dth4 ,take the castor sacks of one beaver1 add #aj drops oil from the oil stones1 and beaver's urine enough to make the bait like mush4 99 99 99 ,for beaver bait1 get six castors off of beavers1 one nutmeg1 #ab cloves1 #cj grains or cinnamon and mix up with a little whiskey to make in a paste or like mixed mustard4 ,put in a bottle and cork4 ,in a few days it will get strong1 then use as a bait on pan of trap4 ,you catch no foxes if there is any human scent around1 says an ,eastern trapper4 ,i will tell you how ,i set a trap for fox in a brook of running water4 ,have your trap free from rust 7beeswax is good to prevent rust on a trap72 have on a pair of water-proof boots1 put the bait on a rock about two feet from shore1 and set trap on a rock three inches from shore4 ,cover trap about one inch with moss2 have it rise above water1 and place a rock for reynard to step on before he steps onto the trap rock4 ,put a few drops of scent on the bait1 of the right kind1 and be sure the trap is under water2 handle bait and moss with sharp stick4 ,now ,i am sure you would catch no fox if you worked from the bank4 ,always walk in water when going to trap4 ,i will give a pointer on using decoys or scent for making trails1 writes a ,western trapper4 ,take a piece of sponge1 run stout string thru it1 pour on your medicine and then place the sponge in the hollow of the sole of your rubber boot1 bring the ends of the string up over the instep1 cross them and tie on the back side of the boot and it will make a trail that a mink or coon will follow a mile or more4 ,illustration3 ,,trapper',s ,,home ,,in ,,colorado4 ,the slyer animals1 such as the fox and mink1 soon learn to associate all fancy smells with danger1 and then most scents act as warning instead of a lure1 writes an ,ohio trapper4 ,for mink bait ,i think a fresh muskrat carcass is about the best of anything1 because muskrat is their common food and therefore they are not nearly as liable to be suspicious of it as of some strange scent1 such as amber oil1 anise oil1 oil of cinnamon or oil of lavender1 one or more of which is nearly always used in combination scents4 ,i generally take a hen carcass1 smear it with the musk of a muskrat1 and use it for a drag1 as it will make a trail that a mink is pretty sure to follow to the trap which should be set in a hole near an old stump or log if such a hole can be found1 and then covered with fine dry dirt1 rotten wood or what is better than either1 the feathers from the chicken carcass which has been used as a drag4 ,i find it a better way to cut the bait into small pieces and use several pieces with each trap1 but if only one piece is used it is best to stake it fast4 ,if an animal only has to make one trip into the enclosure to get all the bait he will not be as apt to be taken as if he made several trips1 which he is pretty sure to do if the bait is cut into small pieces and scattered around in the enclosure4 ,there seems to be quite a difference of opinion among trappers as to the attractive value of ,scents and ,decoys4 ,some praise them1 while others consider them of little value4 ,in our years of experience as ,editor of the ,h-,t-,t we have read thousands of trappers' letters from all parts of ,america1 which in addition to personal observation when on the trapping line1 enables us to say that ,scents and ,decoys1 if rightly made1 prepared and used are of value4 ,there is no question but that the sexual organs of the female secured when in heat and preserved in alcohol is a great lure for the males of that specie4 ,,chapter ,,xxiii4 ,,human ,,scent ,,and ,,sign4 ,there is a great deal said just now about the human scent theory1 writes an ,illinois trapper4 ,some claim that you can catch no animal if there is any human scent around1 and they hardly take time to set their traps properly for fear of leaving scent4 ,i always considered that the most important thing in setting traps was to cover them properly1 and to disturb things as little as possible4 ,when your traps are set everything should be as natural as before4 ,by that ,i mean that when you are trapping for the shrewdest game1 such as fox1 mink1 otter1 wolves1 etc4 ,for other animals such as skunk and muskrat1 you need not use such caution1 for they will blunder into a trap no matter how carelessly it is set4 ,still it is always best to cover your signs properly for you can never know what animal may come along4 ,if your traps are carefully covered you are as liable to get a valuable pelt as a low priced one4 ,use care in setting2 study well the nature and habits of the game you are trapping1 and you will be successful4 ,never begin trapping until the fur is prime for one prime skin is worth more than five or six poor ones4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,few ,,days ,,catch4 ,among trappers there is a variety of opinion as to the different kind of baits to use1 and also as to the different ways to avoid the smell of iron or steel traps4 ,some boil their traps in willow bark2 others dip their traps in melted tallow or beeswax4 ,i have had a fox get into my snowshoe tracks and follow a long ways because it was better traveling4 ,now that shows he was not afraid of human scent writes a ,vermont trapper4 ,now about iron4 ,how often does a fox go through a wire fence or go near an old sugar house where there are iron grates4 ,that shows he is not afraid of scent of iron4 ,once there was an old trapper here1 and the young men wanted him to show them how to set a fox trap1 and he told them he would1 so he got them out to show them how1 and this is what he told them4 ,remove all suspicion and lay a great temptation4 ,well there it is4 ,now in order to remove all suspicion you must remove all things that are not natural4 ,a man's tracks1 and where he has been digging around with a spade or with his hands are not natural around a spring1 are they8 ,no4 ,well then1 there is where the human scent question comes in4 ,by instinct he is shown that man is his enemy1 and when a man has pawed the bait over he uses his sense and knows that danger is there1 for it is not natural4 ,now ,i have a question at hand2 in one place he is not afraid1 and around the trap he is afraid4 ,now1 how does he know when to be afraid and when not8 ,i think because when he sees a piece of bait in a new place it is not natural4 ,once last winter ,i knew where there was a dead horse and ,i used to go by it1 and one day my brother was with me1 and of course he knew that ,i could get a fox there1 so to please him ,i set a trap1 and not another fox came near4 ,well1 ,i smoked that trap1 boiled it in hemlock and then smeared it in tallow1 but the fox knew and never came within ten feet of it again1 when they were coming every night before4 ,when ,i went by there before ,i set the trap ,i left as much scent as after1 and how could he tell when there was a foot of snow blown there by the wind after ,i set my trap8 ,now they don't appear to be afraid of human scent or iron in some places and around a trap they are1 so now why should they know where to be shy8 ,well1 because it may be in an unnatural place1 but what tells him it is in an unnatural place unless it is instinct or good sharp sense4 ,as for scent1 ,i know that rotten eggs and onions are natural1 although the matrix of the female fox in the running season is very good scent2 also skunk or muskrat scent or decayed fish1 as it gives out a strong smell4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,inside ,,of ,,northern ,,trapper',s ,,cabin4 ,one word to the novice fox trapper4 ,you must make things look and smell natural around the spring1 and put before them the food which ,god has provided for them1 and you will have success4 ,place the trap in the mud of the spring1 and a sod on the pan of the trap4 ,use one that has not been handled by the hand of a human being4 ,i will give some facts on human scent and human signs in ,south ,carolina4 ,now ,i have not trapped ever since the ,civil ,war2 ,i have never trapped all kinds of fur bearers that inhabit the ,rocky ,mountains1 but have trapped every fur-bearing animal of upper ,carolina from muskrat to otter1 writes an experienced trapper4 ,the mink and fox are the animals most trappers referred to1 we have no foxes here to catch1 therefore ,i am unable to say anything about ,reynard4 ,mink in the ,carolinas are not afraid of human scent any more than any other animals1 but they are afraid of human signs in an unnatural place4 ,it is a common thing to find mink tracks in my path where ,i visit my traps every day1 they are made late in the afternoon4 ,i have set my traps almost at night and have had a mink in them next morning4 ,i used no scent or bait1 and mink are very scarce here1 too4 ,my favorite set is in cane brakes and runways1 using no bait4 ,when ,i first began to trap1 mink were not so scarce as they are now1 but there are a few left yet4 ,not many years ago nearly every night ,i would have a muskrat's hide badly torn and sometimes the rat barbarously murdered and half eaten up4 ,one writer says1 take bait and scent and set a trap properly1 then go a little farther on and set a trap without either bait or scent1 and see which trap you catch a fox in first4 99 99 99 ,now we notice that this writer brings in the bait every time4 ,we are very much in favor of bait1 and make bait one of our most essential points in trapping the fox4 ,this writer says that those no scent men are the ones that say fox are afraid of human scent4 ,for our part we do not claim anything of the kind2 on the contrary1 we claim that it is the signs that we make that the fox is shy of4 ,i see there are a great many talking about mink not being afraid of railroad irons and barb wire fences writes a ,louisiana trapper4 ,well1 ,i guess they are not1 but some of them are afraid of human scent under certain conditions1 while under some other conditions they are not4 ,find a place where they are liable to come1 and tramp and tread around just like an unexperienced trapper would do1 taking an old rusty or new trap1 handling with naked hands and set either concealed or naked1 stick a chunk of meat up over it on a stick1 and then remove sticks and stones making a disturbance4 ,this will make mink afraid of human scent in that place4 ,a great many are afraid of a bait stuck up on a stick if there is human scent around it1 so ,i think it is a combination of these2 namely1 disturbances1 human scent and the unnatural place to find food that scares them away4 ,yet they are not all that way by any means4 ,now let some of these fellows who think animals are not afraid of human scent try to catch an otter that has been caught before and got away1 and they will think differently4 ,i caught one last winter1 that had his front leg off within an inch of the shoulder4 ,i also caught a coon that had both front legs off high up1 and strange to say this coon was fat and in good condition4 ,he wasn't a very large one1 and his teeth were badly worn off4 ,he must have looked funny walking around on his hind feet like a bear1 that is the way he walked for ,i could tell by the tracks4 ,i see a great deal of discussion about mink being afraid of human scent writes a prairie trapper4 ,i think there is a difference between mink concerning this3 some mink are afraid and others are not4 ,last winter ,i caught a mink in a trap but he got away before ,i got there1 and that mink after getting loose1 followed the tracks ,i had made the morning before for about a quarter of a mile up the river before he turned in close to the bank4 ,now he didn't seem to be afraid of human scent4 ,again ,i have walked up to a mink path1 carefully set and covered my trap1 and then carefully walked away in my old tracks1 but never a mink would ,i get1 nor would the mink even go along that path any more4 ,i have even walked up to a path when ,i had no traps with me and then walked away1 and altho the path had been used every day before1 it was not used again for about nine or ten days4 ,i once set a trap at the bottom of a muskrat slide without covering1 and although ,i had walked all around there and my trap was not covered1 ,i got a mink4 ,i wish to say that mink are not afraid of human scent and in proof will tell a little experience ,i had with a mink while trapping for muskrat1 writes a ,massachusetts trapper4 ,one night ,i came to one of my traps which contained a muskrat that was partly eaten4 ,i knew it was the work of a mink4 ,going on up the stream a short distance ,i had a mink1 and ,i allowed that this mink would steal no more muskrats1 but on investigating ,i discovered that this mink was coming down stream1 while the one that had eaten the muskrat was going up1 and after all ,i had not caught the thief4 ,next night the same trap contained a muskrat partly eaten and ,i determined to catch the mink4 ,i took the rat out of the trap and fixed for ,mr4 ,mink by setting a second trap about three feet from the first one4 ,i then started to look at other traps and was not gone more than an hour1 and on returning to these traps ,i found that ,i had already caught the mink1 and it was a big one and very dark4 ,if this mink had been afraid of human scent he would not have returned4 ,in regard to human scent it does seem to me that after a man has trapped for a number of years he ought to know something about it1 writes a trapper of the ,great ,lake region4 ,i do positively know that human scent will drive most animals away4 ,i have been a great lover of taking the otter4 ,brother trappers1 how many of you that have trapped the otter1 but what have found out that he can tell that you have been there if you are not very careful1 and he is not very much sharper than mink or fisher4 ,i do think that all animals can scent a human being4 ,i have caught almost all kinds of fur-bearing animals this side of the ,rockies1 and ,i don't know it all yet1 but ,i do know the nature of all the game ,i trapped1 and that we must all know to make trapping pay4 ,in regard to scents1 will say that undoubtedly the most taking scent for male fur-bearing animals is that taken from the female during the mating season4 ,yet there are other things that will attract them sometimes4 ,i believe there are times when the female mink can be trapped more easily with the blind set1 in fact at least one-half the mink ,i ever caught were taken in that manner1 without any muskrat meat4 ,i believe that a party may have and use all the scents1 baits and methods in existence but without some knowledge of the animal sought1 and also a little practicable common sense1 and knowledge of setting traps he will meet with indifferent success4 ,trappers are divided as to their views on ,human ,scent and ,sign4 ,some of the old and experienced ones think there is nothing to either for as they say they catch the shrewdest animals without any trouble4 ,this is true but the trapper of years of experience knows how to set his traps without leaving sign4 ,there is no question but that the shrewdest animals look with suspicion upon sign or anything out of the ordinary especially at their den or places where they often frequent4 ,illustration3 ,,coyote ,,trapping ,,on ,,the ,,cattle ,,ranches4 ,the hunter knows that deer1 bear1 fox and other animals rely upon their sense of smell as one of their ways to evade them4 ,is it not as reasonable that they smell a trapper when on his rounds8 ,of course after the trapper has made the set and gone1 his scent will gradually leave and the sign is probably the cause of the animal keeping away1 should it continue to do so4 ,that human scent is quite noticeable to animals is proven from the fact that bloodhounds can follow a man's trail or scent even tho it has been made hours before4 ,yet after a day or so the scent is lost and the best bloodhound cannot follow it4 ,do not the same conditions apply to the scent left by the trapper when setting his traps for wolves1 foxes1 mink1 otter1 beaver and other keen scented and shrewd animals8 ,it surely does1 and after a few days1 at the farthest1 the human scent is all gone4 ,this being true1 then it must be the sign that keeps the animal away4 ,again1 it may be that the animal has had no occasion to return4 ,where the trapper has just set traps for foxes or wolves and these animals visit them within a few hours they perhaps are aware that a person has been about as both scent and sign may be there4 ,to overcome human scent and sign the trapper must leave no sign and as for human scent it will leave in a short time4 ,in visiting the traps do not go near unless disturbed4 ,,chapter ,,xxiv4 ,,hints ,,on ,,fall ,,trapping4 ,before the readers of the ,h-,t-,t receive the ,november issue the death sentence will have been passed and executed upon many a luck-less fur-bearer whose hides will be on the fence1 for in many states trapping can be done at any time1 more is the pity1 writes a ,michigan trapper and buyer4 ,in ,michigan no trapping is allowed until ,november #ast1 which is plenty soon enough4 ,last season ,i saw many hundreds of skunk1 coon and mink and also opossum skins that had been taken in ,october and were only trash4 ,it was a worthless1 wasteful slaughter4 ,muskrats are the only animals that may1 with reason1 be taken during the first half of ,october and yet it is better to wait until general collections are good4 ,i will first ask the amateur if he uses the precaution to stake his rat and mink traps at water sets with bushes instead of stakes4 ,they do not attract the attention of hunters and other stragglers and especially boys as does the new whittled wood of a stake2 sometimes it is necessary to go still farther than this and cut a short stake and shove it entirely out of sight under water or mud4 ,illustration3 ,,eastern ,,mink--,,november ,,caught4 ,when you find where a rat is working slightly in many places along a bank and you do not know just where to place your trap1 dig a little place in the bank at the water's edge and up above it and set your trap in the entrance under the water a half inch4 ,this will attract the rat and you will most likely get him4 ,it helps to pin down a rat's leg or other small portion of the carcass in the excavation just mentioned4 ,rats will not eat the meat1 but it is sure to draw them into the trap2 and then by baiting with rat flesh you will often get a mink4 ,after you have caught a rat at feeding signs or in any other inconspicuous place and you do not get more after two nights1 it is well to move your trap to a new place4 ,i generally trap three nights on one stretch of ground and then take up all except now and then one occupying the most favored positions2 the remaining traps will catch the stragglers and the traps you remove and reset will be on guard to a purpose4 ,be careful and do not dry your furs by the fire4 ,i saw many lots of rats last fall and into the winter that would break like glass1 the skins had been made so brittle by the fire-drying process4 ,it makes the pelt side look dark and unprime as well4 ,in setting for mink1 follow water setting as long as possible and set under over-hanging roots and banks where the tracks are seen or where a log lies up so as to permit the mink's passing under and1 in short1 wherever the game is most apt to pass thru or under as is the mink's habit4 ,where there is no timber and the banks are low1 then the main dependence is on making a trench as described and pinning down a portion of muskrat4 ,illustration3 ,,muskrat ,,house4 ,i will also say that ,i have found rat houses a capital place to catch mink4 ,both coon and mink visit rat houses that are nearest to shore2 knowing this1 after you have caught off the rats1 dig a hole in the side of the house and throw in a portion of a muskrat4 ,set jour trap at entrance covered with water or thin mud and if there is a mink or coon that visits the house you will get him if things don't go contrary1 the trap fail to get hold or some other ill luck occur4 ,when a coon is expected a long hardwood stake should be used4 ,i have had a number blunder into rat traps1 chew the soft popple or willow stake all to pieces and go off with the trap4 ,and they have never returned one yet4 ,a word more on the mink question4 ,when ,i find a place that mink are most sure to pass thru or under1 ,i do not use bait4 ,especially if the mink is old and cunning and has been trapped1 or one that has been nipped by a trap and become bait shy4 ,for these ,i make blind sets only4 ,my trap and chain is under water and also my stake4 ,the trap is barely covered by water or mud and an old leaf or two that is watersoaked is laid on the trap4 ,if ,i think there is a chance for the mink to avoid the trap1 ,i lean up an old chunk or dead stick against the bank with the lower end just beyond the trap next to deep water4 ,it is plain to be seen that if he goes behind that prop he will hear something drop4 ,i have caught many a mink in this manner that have eluded all the trappers in my neighborhood4 ,several years ago an old trapper and myself fought a friendly contest in our endeavor to catch a sly old dog mink4 ,he traveled on a creek which was a mere thread4 ,my competitor was a strong believer in bait and before a week had passed he had tried muskrat1 fish1 birds and frogs4 ,the mink passed nightly but ignored all these offerings1 the main reason being that a meadow near by teemed with mice4 ,calling the mink a bad one1 he invited me to try my hand4 ,he had about a dozen baited traps set4 ,i took one good ,no4 #a ,newhouse and selecting a place where the bank was undermined and the mink's track could be seen on a shelf1 ,i placed my trap next to the bank1 placed the leaves of a long soaked weed over the trap which was barely submerged4 ,i then took a large weed that was full of branches and thrust it in the bed of the stream1 so close to the trap that the mink would be liable to pass between it and the bank4 ,the next morning ,i met the old trapper coming back from his round4 ,well1 did you get 'im8 ,i asked4 ,no1 but you did and ,i killed him for ye and he's a whalin' big one1 he added rather dryly4 ,his disappointment was but poorly disguised and like the fox and grape fable he comforted his chagrin by saying3 ,he probably blundered in1 with so many traps set1 how could he help it8 ,i'd a ketched 'im in a night or two4 ,i did not dispute this statement1 but kept a deal of thinking4 ,all thru ,november skunks will be visiting old dens looking up winter quarters to suit and wandering with their usual lawlessness4 ,by placing traps in the entrance of these holes you will catch some of the striped gentry1 but your catch will be vastly greater if you bait4 ,many skunks only look down a hole and do not enter1 which they would do if you place a bait of muskrat1 rabbit or chicken below the trap at each setting4 ,the skunk is such a glutton that altho he may be gorged to repletion he will still try to encompass more if it is food to his liking4 ,quite a number of trappers wish to know how skunk catching can be done without odor4 ,boys1 don't be afraid of the odor4 ,wear old clothes and discard them at the close of day4 ,the perfume that the first skunk gives off when you dispatch him is an advantage to you4 ,it draws others4 ,so having caught one1 keep your trap there4 ,i have had a trap set at a den for a long time without its being disturbed1 but as soon as ,i caught one several more got fast in quick succession4 ,,chapter ,,xxv4 ,,land ,,trapping4 ,following animals are trapped on land and in what is known as land sets3 ,wolf1 marten1 bear1 weasel1 mountain lion1 badger1 fisher1 lynx1 wild cat1 civet1 skunk1 ring-tail cat1 and opossum4 ,fox are largely trapped on land1 but in some sections they are taken in water at bait sets2 mink and coon are trapped on land as well as in the water4 ,wolves1 being one of the shrewdest1 methods for catching them will be described first4 ,,wolves ,,and ,,coyotes4 ,find an old trail that the coyotes use1 plant your trap in as narrow a part of the trail as possible1 fasten trap to a good toggle1 bury the toggle to one side of the trail4 ,have a blanket while doing the work4 ,place all dirt on the blanket4 ,after trap1 chain and toggle are put in place and wool has been put under pan1 cover all nicely with dirt from the blanket4 ,the dirt should not be over one-fourth of an inch deep4 ,leave everything looking as it did before you began4 ,now have an old stick 7not a fresh cut one7 the size of your wrist and long enough to reach across the trail and lay it about eight inches from the trap and crosswise of the trail4 ,a coyote won't step on the stick1 but will step over it every time4 ,use caution and leave no human signs and you will get your coyote4 ,this method is used successfully in ,texas1 says a wolf trapper of that state4 ,the wolf is a pretty hard animal to trap1 writes a ,minnesota trapper4 ,whenever he gets near a bait he is always shy and that is because he can smell iron1 but if you put a trap in his track and he comes along he will walk right in and get caught4 ,that is because he thinks there is no danger in his own tracks4 ,there are many times that he falls a victim to the trap that way4 ,i will describe a set most trappers use here in the winter when there is snow on the ground4 ,they take some horse manure and haul it out on some plowed field and make two heaps not very high and in one of them they put the bait and in the other the traps4 ,four traps are mostly used1 secured to a log4 ,care must be taken not to cover the traps too much4 ,the best bait1 ,i think1 is the entrails from a hog4 ,trappers for wolves should not use smaller than ,no4 #c traps4 ,the ,no4 #d is known as the wolf trap and will be found suitable for all sections4 ,if wolves have been feasting off the carcass of a sheep1 calf or other animal1 set your trap there4 ,if you have plenty of traps a half dozen set within eighteen inches of the carcass and carefully covered up1 should make a catch4 ,the trap and fastening1 a weight and clog1 be it remembered1 should be covered4 ,if you dig up the ground in order to conceal the clog1 have a basket or something along to put the earth in and carry away some distance4 ,everything must be left as natural as possible4 ,another method is to hang up a dead chicken and place a trap directly under it4 ,hang the fowl about three feet high4 ,the secret1 at least one of them1 in trapping is to leave everything as natural as possible after setting your trap4 ,most animals will regard with suspicion if there is much change around their den4 ,in the case of skunk it perhaps is not so particular1 yet the trapper who carefully conceals his traps will be well repaid for so doing4 ,even when trapping for skunk you never know what animal may come along4 ,then to be ready1 adopt the rule of always carefully covering your traps4 ,we all admit that the fox and wolf are shy animals and are rather difficult to catch1 yet they are frequently caught by trappers who are only trapping for opossum or skunk4 ,these trappers1 of course1 had their traps carefully hidden4 ,while fox and wolf are among the smartest animals1 yet they can be caught1 as the thousands of pelts sold annually is evidence4 ,see to it1 trappers1 that every trap is set and covered properly and you will be rewarded some morning on visiting your trap by a fox or wolf if they are many in your section4 ,illustration3 ,,wolf ,,caught ,,at ,,bank ,,set4 ,now a word about trapping those cute little coyotes1 writes a ,california trapper4 ,the best way to catch anything that walks on four legs is to make a fool of them4 ,some people may think that is hot air1 but ,i know better4 ,the best way to fool an old coyote is to take a fresh sheep skin and drag it1 you riding on a horse1 for a mile or so in the hills near where your man is in the habit of going1 7now be sure you don't touch it with your hands7 until you find an open hill not too high4 ,have a stake there before hand and your traps set4 ,the traps should be left lying in the sheep pen for a week before setting4 ,when you get to the stake1 hang your pelt on it1 so when the wind blows the pelt will move4 ,mr4 ,coyote will be sure to find the trail you have made and will follow it until it sees the pelt1 and then he will walk around it for a night or so1 but he will not get too near the first night or three or four nights1 but he will try to pull the skin down and he will forget about the traps and everything else and will be taken in just like all the other suckers4 ,my outfit consists of the following1 writes a well known ,western trapper3 ,sixty ,no4 #c ,newhouse single spring otter traps 7,i find they will hold any wolf and are easier set than double spring traps71 an axe1 #fj stakes #af or #ah inches long1 #ab or #ae pounds of wool or cotton1 wool preferred1 #bj stakes #aj or #ab inches long1 a piece of oil cloth or canvas about #c feet square1 a light wagon and team1 a good rifle and four stag hounds4 ,the hounds are trained so stay on the wagon until told to go1 and will nearly always get a coyote when sent after him4 ,in setting traps ,i choose a high knoll or a bare spot on the range--often the bed of a dry creek--where ,i see plenty of signs1 and then proceed as follows3 ,stick one of the small stakes where ,i want the bait and from #bj to #bd inches from it lay a trap and stretch the chain straight back1 drive stake through chain ring and drive down below the surface of the ground an inch or more4 ,then fix two more traps the same way at the opposite points of a triangle4 ,set your traps and place a good wad of wool under the pan so that rabbits and other small game will not spring it1 and then proceed to bed the traps and chains1 placing all the dirt on the canvas4 ,now place your bait 7,i always use live bait if weather is not too cold1 but have had good success with dead bait74 ,lay an old dead hen or other fowl in the center and drive small stakes through it into the ground firmly2 cover end of stake with wing or feathers of bait4 ,now step back and take dirt from the canvas and cover traps #a_/b or #e_/h inch deep2 also cover your own tracks1 and brush over all with a bush4 ,if traps are well set it will be hard to tell where the traps lay4 ,all dirt that is left on canvas should be taken away some distance and dropped4 ,in using live bait proceed the same way with traps1 only bait should be tied by the feet with a good stout cord and place a can of corn and one of water within reach of fowl1 both cans to be set into the ground level with surface4 ,do not go nearer to traps than to see that they are not sprung and do not shoot or club game in the traps1 but choke to death with a copper wire on the end of a pole2 a good stout cord will answer the same purpose4 ,wipe all blood off traps before setting again and brush out your tracks as before1 and above all1 don't spit tobacco juice near your traps4 ,after catching one wolf or coyote1 do not use more bait1 as the scent is strong enough to draw all that comes near4 ,i do not use any patent decoy or scents1 as ,i consider them useless for any game4 ,the only scent ,i use is what ,i make myself1 and then only use it from ,february to ,april4 ,in the summer ,i gather up four or five bitch dogs and as fast as they come in heat ,i kill them and take the organs of generation and pickle them in wide mouth bottles with alcohol enough to cover4 ,i sprinkle a few drops on a stone or bush1 stick in center between traps1 but use no other bait4 ,this is also good for fox4 ,the above method is the same as ,i learned it from an old ,hudson ,bay trapper1 ,pierre ,deverany1 who was born in #ahag and had trapped all through the ,british possessions and the ,rocky ,mountains1 with whom ,i trapped for several years4 ,,lynx1 ,,fisher1 ,,wild ,,cat4 ,here is the method for the capture of a lynx4 ,where lynx follow up trails1 build a house around a tree1 of brush1 etc41 leaving a small door fronting the trail4 ,cut a rabbit or bird and tie it to the tree in the house4 ,place a ,no4 #d or #ad ,newhouse trap at the entrance1 covering with cotton or wool and boughs4 ,fasten your trap chain to a clog2 drag a rabbit up and down the trail past the house4 ,for a fisher build a small house and use ,no4 #a #a_/b ,newhouse trap and bait with rabbit1 bits of deer meat with the hair and skin left on is also a good bait4 ,use a sliding pole or heavy drag1 as the fisher sometimes chews the drag to pieces4 ,wild cat are trapped about the same as lynx4 ,there are a great many caught by making a cubby or enclosure where they cross or frequent in search of birds1 rabbits1 etc4 ,the bait is placed back in the cubby and may be either bird1 rabbit or fish4 ,the ,no4 #a #a_/b and ,no4 #b ,newhouse are used principally1 altho the ,victor ,no4 #c and ,oneida ,jump ,no4 #d are both adapted to wild cat trapping4 ,illustration3 ,,lynx ,,caught ,,in ,,steel ,,trap4 ,the methods given for catching wild cat1 lynx and fisher can and are used by trappers for each of these animals4 ,that is1 the set described for wild cat can be used for fisher and lynx1 the lynx set for fisher and wild cat and the fisher set for lynx and wild cat4 ,in other words1 a set for any of these animals is good for all three4 ,,marten4 ,to begin with1 when trapping for marten1 says an ,oregon trapper1 use only the best traps--,no4 #a or #a #a_/b is plenty large enough--in fact1 larger traps cannot be used conveniently1 for the reason that when the ground is covered with deep snow and your traps are all fastened high up on trees you must set them with your hands4 ,with nothing to rest your trap on except your knee and with fingers like icicles it will require all the strength in your left hand to mash together the spring of a good ,no4 #a #a_/b1 while with the right you adjust the pan and latch4 ,do not fool away your time with a few traps1 but of course just how many you can use depends on how thick game is4 ,view out your prospective line during summer time4 ,some important essentials are3 pick out a line in very heavy timber1 preferably along some high ridge2 work gradually up or down hill and avoid very steep places2 a line free from underbrush is desirable unless snow gets deep enough to cover it all up2 run your line as near straight as possible2 avoid making sharp turns for your blazes will at times be very hard to see owing to snow on the bark of the trees and once off the line it may be hard to find4 ,illustration3 ,,marten ,,caught ,,in ,,shelf ,,set4 ,do not make camps too far apart1 eight miles is far enough when the snow is soft and deep4 ,get your traps all strung out before snow comes and have everything ready so as to lighten your work when the time comes1 for1 even then1 it will be hard enough4 ,now1 in setting traps1 you cannot pick out likely places--hollow trees1 etc4--do not leave the line even for a few feet to set one in that hollow tree else the trap is apt to be forgotten and lost4 ,give every tree where a trap is left some mark to indicate its presence4 ,use wire staples to fasten traps to the trees and they should be fastened three or four feet above the ground4 ,set the trap or bend the spring around to fit the curve of the tree4 ,now drive a #ab penny nail in the tree an inch or so1 place the trap so that the cross piece rests flat on the nail and drive two smaller ones between the spring and your trap rests same as if set on the ground4 ,nail small piece of bait 7squirrel1 rabbit1 or bird is best7 eight or ten inches above the trap4 ,if you desire to shelter the trap1 drive a couple of wooden pegs above the bait and lay on a piece of bark or some boughs--this is not necessary if traps are to be looked after regularly1 for you can keep the snow brushed off4 ,a large piece of bait is not necessary1 but in rebaiting do not remove the old bait1 just nail up another4 ,sometimes ,i have a half dozen baits by each trap4 ,it is well to try each trap occasionally to see if it will spring with just the right pressure4 ,if the bait is scarce1 set the traps any way and you will soon have enough birds and squirrels4 ,illustration3 ,,shelf ,,set ,,and ,,fastening4 ,in visiting the line1 always make your pack as light as possible1 four or five pounds of bait1 a hatchet1 a few nails and staples and a small ,stevens #bb cal4 pistol is all you will be apt to need for one hundred traps4 ,if you are a trapper by nature1 you will know where to put the traps1 close together and where there is a probability of making a catch4 ,some places ,i put a trap every fifty yards and some places one-half mile apart4 ,keep your traps freshly baited and do something with each trap every three or four days1 if nothing more than to rub a piece of bacon rind or rabbit entrails from the top of the snow to the bait4 ,a drag is good at times and in some places4 ,scent is good if bait is frozen4 ,,white ,,weasel4 ,when trapping weasel1 writes a ,northern trapper1 ,i set my traps near small streams or in swamps1 old ditches1 beneath old roots and under shelving banks1 near running water1 and sometimes they may be caught in woodchuck holes4 ,the white weasel and all other weasel are regular dummies1 going headlong into a trap1 even if they are in plain view4 ,you don't need to cover up your trap at all unless you want to1 as the weasel will walk right in to get the bait and click bang and you have your weasel hard and fast4 ,the best bait for weasel is rabbit heads1 chicken heads and squirrels4 ,the same sets will also catch mink1 but the traps must be covered in that case unless you are making blind sets4 ,i have caught a good many weasel in my mink sets and then again1 ,i have caught them in old muskrat holes or dens along the banks of small streams and also near river banks in deserted rat dens4 ,illustration3 ,,squirrel ,,caught ,,on ,,stump4 ,white weasel or ermine are found in ,canada and the ,new ,england ,states as well as all other states bordering on ,canada1 but rarely farther south4 ,these animals1 like all of the weasel kind1 are active in their search for food and are easily attracted to bait4 ,they are the smallest of the animals now being sought after by ,american trappers for their fur4 ,the ,no4 #j is used in taking this animal1 altho many trappers prefer the ,no4 #a and #a #a_/b as they catch high and the trapper usually finds the weasel dead on his arrival4 ,,mink4 ,my father was a successful mink trapper but only trapped when they became bothersome says an experienced trapper4 ,he made mostly dry sets4 ,he would look carefully at a hole in bank of stream or pond1 then cut out a place for the trap1 drive a stake in bottom of the trap bed1 coil trap chain around it and set trap on top1 then cover with finely cut grass1 a big leaf or writing paper and lastly with the material he took off the top trap bed4 ,then he cleared all extra dirt away and put the bait in the edge of the hole or under the edge of a stick or stone1 if there was one near the hole4 ,i went with him once and ,i said1 ,some trappers stick the bait on a stick4 ,he looked at me and said1 ,you young goose1 did you ever know a mink to eat part of a muskrat and hang the rest on a stick8 ,he used bird1 muskrat and fish for bait4 ,if bird1 he tore some feathers out and made it appear as if some mink had dragged the bait there and hid it4 ,for a mink that is not hungry1 ,i find an old muskrat den or a runway through a drift pile is a good place4 ,the great trouble with these two last sets is1 the rabbits are liable to get into the trap instead of the mink4 ,there are a good many ways to catch mink1 and there are mink that will evade a good many well laid plans for their capture4 ,my most successful plan for catching mink is this3 ,i get a hollow log--it needn't be a long one--and if it is open at both ends ,i close up one end1 then a little back of that ,i put my bait4 ,now at the other end if the entrance is not slanting so that the mink would run into it easily1 ,i make it so4 ,i then put the trap inside1 about a foot from the entrance4 ,the mink will run into the log because he smells the bait1 or simply because it is the nature of the beast to make the run of every hollow log he comes to4 ,finding the other end closed he will have to come back and he is sure to be caught either going or coming4 ,trailing bait along the ground and up to the back of the log makes the results surer1 as mink are great on the scent4 ,about mink4 ,one man said mink would not take anything dead unless he was very hungry4 ,now ,brother ,trappers1 you all know a mink will take anything he finds dead and drag it into a hole if he can and when you find where a mink has dragged something into a hole that is a never failing set for if he is not in the hole when you find it he will sure come back to it4 ,,raccoon4 ,hollow trees in swamps are the favorite denning places of the raccoon1 writes an ,eastern trapper of years of experience1 but in some sections he is found nearly as often in holes among ledges4 ,if there is a rocky hill or mountain side on your line1 inspect it thoroughly4 ,the occupied dens may easily be told by the trodden appearance of the ground about the entrance and an occasional tuft of hair on the projecting edges of the stone4 ,here are the places for your traps4 ,set your traps just outside the entrance1 cover well with leaves and rotten wood1 and fasten to a clog4 ,we say outside the entrance1 for if the trap be placed at a point where the animal is obliged to assume a crouching posture1 it will be sprung by the creature's belly1 and you will find your trap empty save for a fringe of hair4 ,even if the dens show no signs of recent occupation1 a few traps can hardly be misplaced1 for the raccoon1 like every other animal1 frequently goes on foraging trips long distances from his actual home1 taking up temporary quarters in places like those above described4 ,illustration3 ,,raccoon ,,caught ,,in ,,oneida ,,jump4 ,whenever there is a brook or creek in the vicinity of good raccoon ground1 look along it carefully for signs4 ,the raccoon follows the streams almost as persistently as the mink in quest of frogs1 fish or clams1 and his track may be easily found along the muddy borders1 the print of the hind foot strikingly resembling that of a baby's bare foot4 ,he is a far less skillful fisher than the mink1 usually confining himself to such unwary swimmers as venture up into the shallow water near the bank4 ,he seldom if ever ,i believe1 goes into deep water4 ,if you find evidence that a raccoon is patrolling a stream1 place a trap without bait at the end of every log affording a crossing place4 ,the raccoon seldom wades or swims when he can find dry footing4 ,if you wish to trap the raccoon by baiting1 you will find nothing that he likes better than an old salt fish skin that has been made odorous by being well smoked4 ,it is not a bad idea to do the smoking near where you are to set the trap4 ,build up a little stick fire in the woods1 hold the fish skin impaled on a green stick1 over it until it is thoroughly heated and smoked through1 and an odor will be created that will pervade the woods for rods around4 ,and of course if this scent reaches the nostrils of any near-by ringtail that is sleeping away the day1 he will lose no time after nightfall in tracing out the source of the appetizing smell1 and endeavoring to make a supper off his favorite food4 ,mice1 squirrel1 frogs and chicken heads are all good baits1 and they are equally good for mink4 ,most trappers prefer the ,no4 #a #a_/b ,newhouse for raccoon although some use the ,no4 #b double spring4 ,the ,oneida ,jump ,no4 #b and #b #a_/b are also good coon traps as is the ,h4 ,n4 ,no4 #b4 ,the ,stop ,thief ,no4 #c #a_/b is also used for coon4 ,,foxes4 ,now ,i will tell you how foxes can be caught on land when the ground is frozen1 writes a ,new ,england trapper4 ,take a large bait1 entrails or anything that a fox will eat1 and put it in some field where the foxes travel2 put out with this bait three bags of buckwheat chaff4 ,don't set any traps until foxes begin to eat bait and walk on chaff4 ,then take a ,no4 #b ,newhouse trap1 smoke it over burning green fir boughs1 and smear it with equal parts of oil of amber and beeswax2 also1 smear the chain and use leather mitts to set trap with1 for it is no use setting unless you do4 ,bury the trap about a foot from the bait1 and cover it with chaff4 ,make everything level and natural4 ,when you catch a fox1 take him out with mitts on and set again if you haven't a clean trap to put in its place4 ,always set a clean trap if possible4 ,illustration3 ,,red ,,fox ,,caught ,,at ,,dry ,,land ,,set4 ,my way of catching foxes1 writes a ,georgia trapper is as follows3 ,i get a lot of dry dust1 put it in the hen house and let it stay until ,i get ready to make my sets2 then ,i take what ,i can carry handily in a sack to where the foxes use1 dig a hole deep enough for my trap1 place a piece of burnt bacon in a hole1 cover it up with the dust1 burn more bacon1 letting the grease drop on and around the dust4 ,i fix a good many of these places but ,i do not set my traps the first trip4 ,the next trip ,i carry my traps with me4 ,if the foxes have found my bait they will dig it out4 ,i then set my trap in the bottom of the hole1 driving a stake down in the hole to fasten the trap to4 ,cover the trap chain and all with dust4 ,i do not put new bait in the hole1 but burn more bacon on top4 ,try this1 brother trappers1 and watch results4 ,do not set traps where the bait has not been disturbed4 ,carry away all fresh dirt and handle your traps with gloves4 ,in water trapping1 form a natural surface over your traps and you will get furs4 ,i see different ways to catch the fox4 ,they are all right but no person can tell another and guarantee success4 ,the man or boy who sets right will get the fur but careless ones will not4 ,i am going to tell amateurs and boys the secret of an old time trapper4 ,he is alive yet and ,i guess had a few traps set 7altho over eighty years old47 ,he told me the secret and said at that time he had never told any one but me4 ,first put out offal of butchering such as beef head2 pick out a good place where foxes travel2 at the same time1 singe the fur on a rabbit or two and put near where you want to set trap2 commence baiting early and go there often4 ,go past close to where you want to set a trap2 don't tramp around much but go on thru1 not leaving the end of your trail there2 renewing bait and singed rabbit fur as needed4 ,when ready to set traps1 boil them in ashes4 ,then after drying1 fasten traps to bottom of a barrel and burn slowly a lot of rabbit fur under them2 handle as little as possible4 ,set carefully and catch your fox if you can and you can if you are careful enough4 ,he said he caught fifteen in one place that way in one winter4 ,fasten trap to drag so he can go away and not spoil set4 ,my best method is to set my trap in an old log road or path where there is no traveling done4 ,we should set the trap level with the ground4 ,the trap should be a ,no4 #b ,newhouse which is the best fox trap made4 ,,opossum4 ,the opossum is not a cunning animal and takes bait readily4 ,it is found in the ,southern and ,central ,states principally4 ,this animal cannot live in the extreme north as they die from the severe weather4 ,they are caught principally in ,no4 #a ,newhouse traps1 at dens or places they frequent in search of food4 ,almost any fresh meat is good bait3 rabbit1 squirrel1 bird1 chicken1 etc4 ,illustration3 ,,opossum ,,caught ,,in ,,no4 #a ,,newhouse4 ,the trap can be baited when used at den but this is not necessary4 ,along their trails and in thickets they visit a piece of bait suspended a foot or so above the ground and trap under1 carefully covered1 will catch the opossum4 ,they are also caught by building a pen of stakes1 or chunks and stones placing bait in the back part and setting trap in front also at hollow logs where they frequently live4 ,no4 #a ,newhouse trap is used a great deal for this animal1 although the ,no4 #a ,victor will hold them2 ,no4 #b ,oneida ,jump1 or ,no4 #b ,tree ,trap1 are proper sizes to catch this animal4 ,the ,tree ,trap can be used to advantage in catching opossum as this trap is so made that it can be nailed to a tree or stump and baited4 ,,badger4 ,the badger is a strong animal for its size1 and also slow in its movements4 ,the ,no4 #b is as small a trap as trappers generally use4 ,the traps are set at the entrance to their dens1 carefully covered and should be fastened to a moveable clog4 ,in setting for badger the trapper should carefully remove enough earth to bed the trap level4 ,a piece of paper or long grass is then carefully placed on trap1 and this covered lightly with the same material removed in making the excavation4 ,this set is apt to reward the trapper4 ,if care is taken in making this set a fox may be caught1 as they sometimes frequent dens used by badger4 ,,skunk4 ,a ,skunk is one of the easiest animals1 whose fur is valuable that there is to trap4 ,this animal is one of the first to become prime in the fall4 ,likewise it sheds early in the spring4 ,when the weather becomes severe they den up1 coming out only on the warmer nights4 ,in the ,north they are seldom out after real winter begins1 while in the ,south1 they seek food more or less throughout the winter4 ,the greatest number are trapped at their dens which can be easily told by the long tail hairs found in and near the mouth of den4 ,these hairs may be either white or black1 but are usually both--one end white and the other black4 ,these hairs are from three to five inches in length4 ,illustration3 ,,black ,,skunk ,,in ,,no4 #a #a_/b ,,victor4 ,the dens can also be told by their droppings or manure which is usually found a few feet to one side of the den4 ,skunk droppings can be told by observing closely as it contains parts of bugs1 grass-hoppers1 etc41 the skunk being very fond of these4 ,at such dens place your trap which should be a ,no4 #a ,newhouse1 ,no4 #a #a_/b ,victor1 or ,no4 #b ,jump4 ,while catches may be made without any covering it is best to secret the trap carefully for a fox might happen along1 or if near water1 a mink4 ,the best place to put the trap is just at the entrance of den so that an animal in coming out will get caught also one going near to the den1 but not entering as they often do4 ,remove the earth sufficient to bed the trap so that after it is covered the covering will be on a level with the surroundings4 ,make a covering with whatever you removed4 ,if there is grass in mouth of den1 cover with grass1 if leaves1 cover with leaves1 etc4 ,another good set is to find where skunk are feeding1 digging for insects1 or their trails leading from one den to another1 and make a cubby1 placing bait in it1 and setting trap4 ,bait should be rabbit1 squirrel1 chicken1 bird1 or in fact1 almost any kind of meat4 ,illustration3 ,,baited ,,and ,,caught ,,at ,,cubby ,,set4 ,,civet4 ,civet or civet cats are caught much the same way as skunk4 ,this is the little spotted animal often called pole cat1 and smaller than the skunk4 ,skunks have a spot on the head and two stripes while the civet has several stripes and these sometimes run across the body instead of along the back from head to tail as on the skunk4 ,this animal is caught much the same as the skunk1 but being much smaller does not require as strong a trap and the ,no4 #a of most any make will usually hold this animal4 ,bait the same as for skunk4 ,,ring ,,tail ,,cat4 ,the ,ring ,tail cat or ,basarisk is found principally in ,texas1 although there are some in ,california1 ,oregon and ,washington4 ,they can be trapped by baiting with insects1 frogs or mice4 ,the ,no4 #a ,newhouse1 or ,no4 #a #a_/b ,victor1 or ,no4 #b ,oneida ,jump are correct sizes for this animal4 ,the traps can be set about as for skunk or may be placed on logs and baited or the bait can be nailed to a tree that they frequent1 the trap placed beneath and carefully covered4 ,,bear4 ,bear are caught after finding a place that they visit in search of food1 by building a cubby1 made by driving old dry stakes in the ground so as to form a ,v-shaped pen4 ,then cover all except the entrance with green brush4 ,this should be three feet high1 about two wide1 and about three or four feet long4 ,if a rock or old log is laying where the cubby is to be built it can be used for one side4 ,the cubby must be built strong or the bear is apt to tear it down and secure the bait without getting caught4 ,the bait can be a piece of dead horse1 hog1 sheep1 or most any animal1 and the more it stinks1 the better4 ,fish is also good bait4 ,stake the bait back in the cubby1 and set the trap at the entrance4 ,cover carefully4 ,the trap should be fastened to a clog weighing thirty pounds or more4 ,this clog should be several feet long and if a few knots are left on so much the better4 ,the ,nos4 #e1 #ae1 and #aej1 are all adapted for black bear1 while the ,no4 #f is especially designed for grizzly bear4 ,it is the largest trap made4 ,illustration3 ,,there ,,to ,,stay--,,in ,a ,,newhouse4 ,in setting bear traps the ,newhouse champ1 described elsewhere1 is much used4 ,it is not very safe for a lone trapper in the forest to undertake the setting of a powerful steel trap without clamps4 ,,mountain ,,lion4 ,mountain lion are powerful animals yet they are successfully caught in ,no4 #d #a_/b ,newhouse traps4 ,illustration3 ,,mountain ,,lion ,,securely ,,caught4 ,if you find where mountain lions have killed an animal and left part of it there is the place to set a trap for they are almost sure to return in a night or two4 ,this animal is also frequently caught by setting a trap where deer or other game has been killed4 ,the chances are good if there is a lion near it will smell the blood and be attracted to the spot as many hunters know that have killed game1 dressed and left it until the next day1 to find on returning that a lion had been there and helped itself4 ,in setting for this animal the trap should be fastened to a clog--never solid--as they are quite strong4 ,,chapter ,,xxvi4 ,,water ,,trapping4 ,here is where the steel trap reveals its superiority over all other traps1 for the homemade ones cannot be used for water sets4 ,strictly speaking all the water animals that are valuable for fur are the otter1 beaver and muskrat1 although large numbers of both coon and mink are caught at water sets1 as they frequent the streams1 ponds and lakes1 a great deal in search of food4 ,in the ,new ,england states1 as well as some other sections1 foxes are caught in water sets mostly at springs4 ,they are generally trapped this way in the fall and early winter before freezing weather4 ,,beaver4 ,the beaver1 as ,i know him1 is a very shy and cunning animal1 always on guard against danger1 which makes it pretty hard to trap1 unless the trapper thoroughly knows his ways and habits4 ,my experience has been wholly confined to the ,rocky ,mountains of ,british ,columbia and ,state of ,washington1 writes a trapper of experience4 ,the beaver lives along streams or lakes4 ,on streams he builds dams1 thus making a reservoir or lake4 ,sometimes he builds a dam at the outlet of a natural lake1 thus raising the height of the water4 ,after he has prepared his dam and built his home1 he commences to gather food1 which consists of branches of trees1 bushes1 and even small trees themselves4 ,he always chooses tender1 green ones4 ,these he puts in the bottom of the lake or stream in his hut or lodge4 ,if he be disturbed at any time he will stop work for several days and live off the boughs already gathered and sunken1 and it is almost impossible to get him until he commences to gather again4 ,he usually does his work among young sprouts which grow along the bank of his lake or stream4 ,sometimes he will go a short ways up the stream and float the boughs down to his dam or hut1 and then sink them to the bottom1 so when the ice gets thick he has sufficient food sunk in the water to last him4 ,illustration3 ,,beaver1 ,,trap ,,and ,,trapper4 ,there are several different ways to trap him1 but ,i only know of two or three1 and will attempt to give them4 ,the first thing is a ,no4 #c or #d ,newhouse trap with a long chain and big ring4 ,then the best way is to take some bait1 7described elsewhere71 cut some small twigs1 one for each trap1 and having found the dam of a family of beavers1 put on a pair of rubber boots1 or remove your boots1 and wade up stream along the shore1 or go in a boat to where they have been at work gathering the sprouts4 ,be very careful1 and don't step out of the water on the land so they can see your tracks or scent you1 for should his suspicion become aroused by any human smell the beaver will stay in his home for several days1 thus making it tedious work to trap him4 ,when you have a place selected where the bank is steep1 fasten your trap chain to a strong stake beneath the water4 ,then fasten a heavy rock to your trap and dig a flat place in the bank a few inches beneath the water1 placing your trap thereon4 ,then dip the twig into the madcin and stick the upper end in the ground1 just out of the water1 and leaning over the trap4 ,now your trap is ready4 ,the beaver comes out of his hut as it grows dark and starts toward the ground where he has his feeding place4 ,as he swims along up the stream1 his nose comes in contact with a familiar smell1 and he will swim right up to the twig to investigate4 ,as his foot touches the ground the trap springs and he at once plunges for deep water4 ,the stone rolls down to the bottom and pulls him under and he drowns in a short time4 ,he makes no noise to scare the rest1 and before he has time to gnaw off his foot he is drowned4 ,in this way you can catch the whole family4 ,another way is to cut a hole in the top of dam and set the trap just below the top of water just under the hole4 ,just as soon as he comes out his eyes tell him his dam needs fixing4 ,he goes at it at once1 and all the rest help him4 ,he gets into the trap often before the eyes of the rest1 and they will leave the place at once never to return4 ,another way is to cover the trap carefully in the path where the beaver goes from the water to his feeding grounds1 but doing this it is liable to scare the rest of them entirely away4 ,,otter4 ,the otter is a pretty hard animal to catch4 ,when ,i set a trap in an otter hole1 ,i cut a chunk of snow with an axe a short distance away and set over the hole1 covering it all over with loose snow4 ,that prevents it from freezing up for some time4 ,the best time to catch otter is in ,march when the first thaw comes4 ,i have kept traps set all winter for an otter and then got him in the spring4 ,the trap should be set a little to one side of the hole in ten inches of water4 ,i caught an otter once in an otter hole so deep that ,i had to put in an armful of cedar brush1 so as to make it the right depth1 and when he came to slide around there he got a surprise1 writes a ,colorado trapper4 99 99 99 ,to trap otter cut a log about #ah inches in diameter and about #g or #h feet in length1 then cut half off five or six inches of one end of the log4 ,now float your log with the cut end down4 ,fasten your trap chain to the side of the log4 ,float your log to just below the point of a stream or a little above an otter slide4 ,see that the log end on which the trap rests is below the water so as to give the otter a chance to climb onto the log to investigate the scent which should be ,oil of ,anise smeared on to a stick and set upright on the log4 ,if you use good judgment in placing your log-float1 you can count the balls on the otter's feet at every set4 ,i find where the otter comes out of the water1 writes an ,arkansas trapper1 to dung1 or slide1 as some term it1 and ,i take a ,no4 #d steel trap and set it where he comes out of the water and about two inches under4 ,great care should be taken in setting a trap for an otter1 not to go too close to the slides4 ,have a pair of rubber boots and wade in the stream along the edge to where the slide is4 ,set your trap so as to leave everything just as you found it1 as near as possible2 if handy1 set from boat4 ,no bait is required4 ,illustration3 ,,large ,,otter ,,caught ,,in ,,no4 #c ,,newhouse4 ,fasten your chain to a pole1 say #f or #h feet long1 leaving some limbs on one end to prevent ring of chain from coming off and wire the other end to a bush or something of that sort as far out in the water as you can so the otter can get into deep water and drown4 ,have a pole driven in the ground out in the water so the otter will get tangled around the pole4 ,this will prevent him from getting loose1 because he has no purchase to pull as he would have if out on the bank4 ,i hung up three one night last fall4 ,when ,i went to my traps ,i found one otter that measured #f feet from tip of nose to tip of tail4 ,i found an otter toe in one trap1 another trap being taken off by an otter1 as the chain pulled loose at the spring4 ,i was fortunate in finding the otter that got away with the trap four days later1 tangled up in some vines about two hundred yards from where he was caught2 he measured #e feet and #aa inches4 ,,mink4 ,an excellent way to catch mink is to take a fish1 cut it in pieces and tie all of them except one or two onto a large stick and fasten it out about two feet from the shore in shallow water4 ,set your trap about half-way between the shore and the stick and have it fixed so that the covering will make a little mound above the water4 ,throw the other pieces of fish down on the shore and you will get every mink that comes along4 ,be sure that your trap is staked in as deep water as is possible1 so they will not get away4 ,in setting any trap it is a very good thing to have rubber boots and stand in the water while setting4 ,some trappers say it is foolishness because they are not afraid anyway4 ,well1 ,i have caught mink in an uncovered trap that was in plain sight and then again ,i couldn't get them to come near with the trap under water4 ,some mink are more careful than others and if you set for the wisest ones you will be sure to get them all4 ,i will give you a good mink set1 writes a ,minnesota trapper4 ,here is a trail along the edge of the water4 ,let us follow it until it takes to the water4 ,in order to pass around a projection in the bank where the bank is so straight up that it is necessary for the animal to go into the edge of the water to pass around this obstruction1 and in the edge of the water not more than two inches deep1 level a place for the trap and press it down into the ground until the jaws are level with the surface1 being careful to remove all mud from under the pan1 giving it room for free action4 ,stake the chain back into the water full length and press it down into the mud4 ,after doing this get a handful of dry dirt1 pulverize it and let it fall gently over the trap1 thoroughly covering it at least for a quarter of an inch1 even and smooth in all places4 ,now about eight inches on each side of the trap place a small weed stalk an inch or two above the ground and directly over the path and if you will put a few spots of mud on it just where it crosses the path to give it the appearance of being rubbed against1 you will catch every mink that runs this trail from either direction1 and without bait or scent4 ,,muskrat4 ,when setting traps stake well out in the water1 so that when the animal is caught he cannot get to land1 and nine times out of ten when you visit the trap your game will be drowned4 ,the trap should be in about three inches of water where rats frequent4 ,if set #c inches or deeper the trap is more apt to catch by the hind leg1 which1 being large1 the bone is not broken so easily4 ,for bait use white corn1 apples1 parsnips or turnips4 ,illustration3 ,,muskrat ,,caught ,,in ,a ,,double ,,jaw4 ,the idea advanced that the muskrat gnaws off his foot when caught is erroneous4 ,there are times1 however1 when the trap has broken the bone in the leg and if the trap is a strong one1 the animal frees himself by plunging about until the pressure of the jaws have cut thru the flesh4 ,the flesh of the muskrat is not strong and when the jaws spring together1 if they break the bone in the leg1 which frequently happens1 then the rat often frees himself before the arrival of the trapper4 ,it is a good plan when making the round of your traps to carry a stout club with which to tap game over the head1 killing it1 should it be yet alive when you arrive4 ,the entrance of the muskrat's den is usually under water1 unless the streams are very low1 then you can often find them4 ,in the mouth of these dens is an excellent place to set traps1 as game is passing in and out quite often and if traps are baited you are pretty sure to catch game in a day or two4 ,where rats have made a path from the water up the bank is another good place to set a trap4 ,the trap should be set just at the edge of the water4 ,it is a good idea to cover up your trap1 even when trapping for muskrat1 for with continued trapping they become sly and learn to shun traps4 ,along the bank of most all streams green grass can be secured and this placed over your traps will enable you to catch game that otherwise would shun your trap4 ,the trap should be baited1 but the covering up of trap and chain will greatly help in catching game4 ,the earlier traps are visited in the morning the better1 for should the game still be alive there will be less chance of it getting free4 ,,coon4 ,now just a word about trapping coon in water4 ,set trap in water and bait with fish4 ,now the right way to use fish is to cut it up in very small pieces1 drop some on the ground and some in the water and when ,mr4 ,coon comes along he will find that fish on the ground and then go to feeling in the water and the first thing he knows he is in the trap4 99 99 99 ,here is my most successful set for coon4 ,find a log with one end out of water1 and one end running into the water4 ,place a trap on the log an inch or so under water4 ,cover it with wet leaves all but the treadle4 ,then place a few grains of white corn on treadle pan4 ,mr4 ,coon will as sure put a foot down to investigate as he runs the log4 ,,fox4 ,i go around every fall in ,august and look for places to catch sly reynard1 says an ,eastern fox trapper4 ,i look up all the warm springs back in the hills and dig them out and leave a stick or rail there for a clog4 ,i leave it just where ,i want it1 so that they will get used to it4 ,about the middle of ,october ,i go and bait every place1 using a piece of chicken or muskrat about as large as a butternut4 ,i place it on a rock in the middle of the spring or about a foot from the bank and put a stone half-way between that and the bank just under water4 ,then ,i take a stone1 the thinner the better4 ,you can find enough of them around a ledge where the frost has scaled them off4 ,i lay it on the rock that is just under the water so it will stick out of water4 ,it ought to be #b inches across each way4 ,i use the scent of the skunk on the sole of my boots so as to kill the scent and handle the bait with a knife and fork1 never with my hands4 ,it won't be long before the bait it gone when ,i am ready to set my traps1 then ,i move the middle stone and put the thin one on the pan of the trap so it will just stick out of the water4 ,try this and you will get your fox4 ,scatter three or four drops of fish oil around trap4 ,,spring ,,trapping4 ,when setting traps for beaver and otter in the early open water1 writes a ,canadian of experience1 the greatest difficulty and annoyance the trapper has to contend against is the varying depths of the water caused by the melting of the snows during the day and the running down of the levels during the frosty nights4 ,this1 of course1 applies more to rivers than to lakes1 but as the rivers open so much earlier than the lakes it is on them the early trapping is prosecuted4 ,it is most exasperating to visit one's trap in the morning and find by the signs that the beaver or otter had paid his visit and that the trap was out of order by being a couple of feet under water1 or high and dry up the bank4 ,to avoid this close observation of the working of the water must be taken note of by the trapper4 ,weather conditions is a factor to be reckoned with4 ,a rainy night and a cold frosty one have1 of course1 different effects1 and must be considered with all their bearings by the would-be successful trapper4 ,the best time to make a set or final adjustment of one's trap is as late in the afternoon as possible4 ,then one sees how much the stream has risen since morning1 and calculate by his judgment how much it will recede during the coming frosty night4 ,or if rain has set in or is imminent before morning1 how much further the rise will be4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,morning',s ,,catch ,,of ,,rats4 ,with these daily and nightly variations of the water1 of course1 traps must be visited each morning and evening4 ,it is therefore good policy at every early visit to make a level mark near each set1 whereby in the evening when the trap is to be properly adjusted1 the day's changes can be noticed with accuracy4 ,small streams1 of course1 fluctuate more than large rivers1 the latter generally showing a steady increase in volume from the beginning of the break-up until the lake ice is all melted4 ,there are many tributaries of large streams that one can easily jump across early in the morning1 after a sharp frosty night1 which are positively raging torrents at sundown4 ,on streams with such wide variances in depth1 trapping is almost impossible4 ,at all events1 a good deal rests on chance4 ,one has to manage his trap with a large amount of guess work4 ,streams with a breadth of an acre or so move up and down with a greater degree of uniformity1 and the trapper who pays close attention to the movements of the water and weather conditions can set his trap pretty accurately for business4 ,a river such as ,i have mentioned last1 whose feeders are a considerable distance up stream1 generally falls a third of what it rose during the daytime4 ,thus1 if you find that since morning the level has risen nine inches it will be safe to set your trap six inches under water4 ,by this calculation there would be three inches over the jaws at the lowest ebb next morning1 the night before being cold and dry4 ,i have caught both otter and beaver in traps set on a half submerged log1 a place which makes an ideal set on waters that are liable to vary in height1 as the log moves with the change of height and the trap is always in order4 ,another good place for a trap is on a floating island when such can be found1 but these favorable places are not always obtainable4 ,a beaver or otter will be caught in deeper water in the spring than in the fall4 ,in the spring they swim about with more vigor and consequently displace more water in front of their breasts1 their feet thereby1 setting off the pan in what would at other seasons be too deep water4 ,a piece of castorum is the general lure used by most trappers for the animals ,i am treating of4 ,in fact castorum is used for almost any animal4 ,but a stronger draw for beaver or otter is a drop or two from the scent bag of the animal4 ,the contents of this sac can be emptied into a small vial and carried about in the trapper's pocket to be used when required4 ,a small twig dipped in this and stuck in the bank back of the trap will cause any otter or beaver swimming past to come straight for the trap1 regardless of consequences4 ,in setting a trap for these animals care must always be taken to douce all about the trap before leaving4 ,this can be done from the canoe or boat by flipping water with the flat of the paddle4 ,a difficulty in setting spring traps is the planting of a picket to hold the trap4 ,the banks are generally frozen even for considerable distance under water1 and driving a picket or stake is impossible4 ,one good way to overcome this condition when procurable is to fasten the trap chain to a good sized flat stone4 ,have a wire from this to the shore tied to some willow or root1 and if anything is caught1 with the wire you can drag everything ashore4 ,when stones are not to be procured a young spruce can be cut ten or twelve feet long of a size at the butt that the trap chain ring will pass over4 ,leave a good tuft of the head branches1 removing all the rest down to the butt4 ,the ring thus being assured of a clear run down to the tuft1 the trap is set and the end of the pole made secure to the bank either by a piece of wire or by a cord4 ,if the latter1 care must be used to tie close down to the prong and the cord carefully covered with mud or something else to hide it from rabbits or other animals that would surely gnaw1 thereby endangering the loss of your trap and animal4 ,trapping1 like everything else1 to make it a success1 must have proper attention4 ,a man who sets a trap haphazard and visits it only occasionally cannot expect to be very successful4 ,,salt ,,set4 ,i use both the bait and blind set2 the water set ,i think is the best1 that is1 in bitter cold weather when the ice is thick4 ,my way of making1 ,i call it the ice set1 writes an interested trapper1 is to take a piece of oil cloth or an old buggy top cover will do1 and put about #e pounds of salt in same and sew it up1 having it about #b inches thick4 ,don't make it too solid1 leave it loose enough so you can work the most of the salt around the edges to bed the trap in4 ,now puncture with a needle to let the fumes of salt through2 cut a hole through the ice at edge of the water1 scrape out hole to bed salt in2 but first put a stone in the hole and bottom and side it up with stones to keep the mud from clogging the needle holes4 ,now you will wonder what the salt is for2 simply to keep the ice from freezing the hole shut4 ,i had nine of that kind of sets last winter and trapped #g mink4 ,the hole will never freeze shut4 ,always set trap under water4 ,last winter ,i told my better half that ,i had better take my traps out of the run where ,i trap1 as ,i couldn't make a water set1 because they froze up over night4 ,she said1 ,why don't you put salt around your traps8 ,that put me to thinking so ,i got an old piece of oil cloth and got her to make four bags for me on the sewing machine2 ,i put a sack of salt1 #e pounds in each one1 and used them as ,i have described4 ,,bad ,,waters4 ,the marshy lands that are tributary to the ,atlantic extend for hundreds of miles along the ,maryland shore of ,chesapeake ,bay4 ,these lands are sometimes entirely covered with a brackish water forced up by the tides from the sea1 while at other times they are covered by the fresh water brought down by the flooded rivers from the higher lands of the back country4 ,upon these vast extents of boggy wastes large numbers of fur bearing animals1 mostly muskrats are annually caught1 and many trappers make a good living from the fur and the meat which as ,marsh ,rabbit is served at the ,bon ,ton restaurants of the neighboring cities4 ,the water of these marshes varies much in its component parts at different places on the coast1 caused by the varying quality of the streams which flow through them4 ,this is plainly shown by its effect upon the traps used by the trappers of the different localities4 ,while in some places the springs will stand apparently as well as in fresh water streams1 in others they break very badly4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,black ,,water ,,marsh4 ,formerly at one point known as the ,black ,water region the trappers often lost nearly one-half their springs in a few days trapping1 owing to the action of this peculiar water4 ,just what the cause of this action is has not yet been fully determined4 ,,chapter ,,xxvii4 ,,when ,,to ,,trap4 ,the proper season to begin trapping is when cold weather comes4 ,the old saying that fur is good any month that has an ,r in does not hold good except in the ,north4 ,even there ,september is too early to begin1 yet muskrat and skunk are worth something as well as other furs4 ,in the spring ,april is the last month with an ,r4 ,in most sections muskrat1 bear1 beaver1 badger and otter are good all thru ,april1 but other animals began shedding weeks before4 ,the rule for trappers to follow is to put off trapping in the fall until nights are frosty and the ground freezes4 ,generally speaking in ,canada and the more ,northern ,states trappers can begin about ,november #a and should cease ,march #a1 with the exception of water animals1 bear and badger1 which may be trapped a month later4 ,in the ,central and ,southern ,states trappers should not begin so early and should leave off in the spring from one to four weeks sooner--depending upon how far ,south they are located4 ,at the interior ,hudson ,bay posts1 where their word is law1 ,october #be is appointed to begin and ,may #beth to quit hunting and trapping with the exception of bear1 which are considered prime up to ,june #aj4 ,remember that the above dates are for the interior or ,northern ,h4 ,b4 ,posts1 which are located hundreds of miles north of the boundary between the ,united ,states and ,canada4 ,the skunk is the first animal to become prime1 then the coon1 marten1 fisher1 mink and fox1 but the latter does not become strictly prime until after a few days of snow1 says an old ,maine trapper4 ,rats and beaver are late in priming up as well as otter and mink1 and tho the mink is not strictly a land animal1 it becomes prime about with the later land animals4 ,the bear1 which is strictly a land animal1 is not in good fur until snow comes and not strictly prime until ,february or ,march4 99 99 99 ,with the first frosts and cool days many trappers begin setting and baiting their traps4 ,that it is easier to catch certain kinds of fur-bearing animals early in the season is known to most trappers and for this reason trapping in most localities is done too early in the season4 ,illustration3 ,,just ,,after ,,the ,,season ,,opens4 ,some years ago when trapping was done even earlier than now1 we examined mink skins that were classed as ,no4 #d and worth #aj or #ae cents1 that1 had they been allowed to live a few weeks longer1 their hides would have been ,no4 #a and worth1 according to locality1 from #a4ej to #c4ej each4 ,this early trapping is a loss to the trapper if they will only pause and think4 ,there are only so many animals in a locality to be caught each winter and why catch them before their fur is prime8 ,in the latitude of ,southern ,ohio1 ,indiana1 ,illinois1 etc41 skunk caught in the month of ,october are graded back from one to three grades 7and even sometimes into trash71 where if they were not caught until ,november #aeth how different would be the classification4 ,the same is true of opossum1 mink1 muskrat1 coon1 fox1 etc4 99 99 99 ,skunk are one of the animals that become prime first each fall4 ,the date that they become prime depends much on the weather4 ,fifteen years ago1 when trapping in ,southern ,ohio1 the writer has sold skunk at winter prices caught as early as ,october #af1 while other seasons those caught the #gth of ,november1 or three weeks later1 blued and were graded back4 ,am glad to say that years ago ,i learned not to put out traps until ,november4 ,that the weather has much to do with the priming of furs and pelts there is no question4 ,if the fall is colder than usual the furs will become prime sooner1 while if the freezing weather is later the pelts will be later in priming up4 ,in the sections where weasel turn white 7then called ermine by many71 trappers have a good guide4 ,when they become white they are prime and so are most other land animals4 ,in fact1 some are fairly good a week or two before4 ,when a pelt is put on the stretcher and becomes blue in a few days it is far from prime and will grade no better than ,no4 #b4 ,if the pelt turns black the chances are that the pelt will grade ,no4 #c or #d4 ,in the case of mink1 when dark spots only appear on the pelt1 it is not quite prime4 ,trappers and hunters should remember that no pelt is prime or ,no4 #a when it turns the least blue4 ,opossum skins seldom turn blue even if caught early--most other skins do4 ,,chapter ,,xxviii4 ,,some ,,deep ,,water ,,sets4 ,when the rivers and lakes are fast bound with the grip of winter1 it is not always convenient to find a suitable place to set a beaver or otter trap under the ice1 says ,martin ,hunter in the ,h-,t-,t4 ,the shore line may drop away into too deep water to set at the bank1 or1 it may be uneven rocks which preclude the possibility of making a safe and sure set4 ,when such conditions confront the trapper1 it is good to know how to set a trap in deep water4 ,it was a ,mic-,mac ,indian who showed me how and on several occasions ,i have found the knowledge very useful and profitable4 ,in fact1 more than once had ,i not known this1 the conditions were such that it would have been utterly impossible for me to have set in the usual way4 ,in after years1 during my sojourn amongst ,montagnais1 ,algonquins and ,ojbway ,indians1 ,i never came across any trapper of these tribes who knew how to set a trap in deep water4 ,for beaver especially1 what better place than in the proximity of their lodge8 ,and what more successful time than in ,january or ,february1 when their winter supply of wood has become sodden and slimy from months of submersion4 ,then cut an opening in the ice1 off from the lodge entrance1 and introduce a birch or popple sapling into the hole1 cover the opening up with snow and come back in a couple of days1 chisel about the protruding sticks and pull them out4 ,oh6 where are they8 ,you will find only the stumps in your hand4 ,the beaver has come and cut the succulent young trees off close to the under surface of the ice and towed them away to his lodge4 ,now1 if you could only set a trap there and place more flesh food you would most likely get that beaver1 but the water is deep4 ,your baiting hole is away from the shore thirty or forty feet and you measure the depth and find six or seven feet of water4 ,again you scratch your head and are sore perplexed4 ,but1 my fellow trappers1 it is right here where ,i step in and show you the way to overcome the difficulty4 ,had ,i not caught beaver under such conditions ,i would not presume to teach others1 but ,i have trapped them this way and always with success4 ,and as for otter1 setting in deep water is much surer than at an opening in a dam or other place which is likely to freeze up and put the trap out of order4 ,now if you will follow me ,i will describe a deep water set in as clear a way as possible1 so that any ordinary trapper ought to be able to use it successfully4 ,cut a trench in the ice thru to clear water1 fourteen to eighteen inches broad by four feet long2 clear this hole free from any floating particles of ice1 cut 7dry if possible7 a young spruce or tamarac1 twelve to fifteen feet long4 ,have it three or four inches in diameter at the butt end1 branch it off from end to end and rub off with axe blade all loose bark4 ,introduce the small end into the water obliquely1 shoving it down in the mud or sand of the bottom1 with the butt end resting on the ice at one end of the opening4 ,if the pole is too long to get the proper angle1 take it out and cut off the surplus4 ,this dry pole is to set the trap on and has to be at the proper incline so that when the beaver is swimming while cutting the bait sticks1 he sets off the trap4 ,when the pole is in the proper position1 mark with your axe or chisel about twelve or fifteen inches under the level of the water4 ,now take out the pole and hew a flat surface1 at the spot previously marked1 about a foot long4 ,slant your pole sideways and drive in the corner of your axe half an inch under the hewed flat surface1 drive the axe until the pole is almost split in twain4 ,if the opening wants to close back too tight1 introduce a small sliver of wood4 ,now set your ,no4 #d trap2 run the ring up the pole above where the trap is to rest and secure it there with a piece of wire or a small staple4 ,force the spear part of the bottom of the trap into the split1 chuck up to the main bottom part that engages the ends of the jaw4 ,the trap is now in place4 ,illustration3 ,,deep ,,water ,,set ,,trap ,,fastening4 ,when there is a muddy or sandy bottom1 the better way is to allow enough length of pole to bury a foot or so into the bottom4 ,this will hold the pole secure and prevent rolling4 ,now take two nice1 young1 juicy popple or young birch1 branch them off clear to the small end and have them six to nine feet long2 put them in small end first and place one on each side of trap1 five inches from it and about the same above4 ,these pieces of food wood can be kept in proper place by packing the butt ends down on the solid ice and putting snow and water on top4 ,if it is at all cold it will get solid in a few moments4 ,next process is to cut fifteen or twenty young spruce trees a couple of inches in diameter and about five feet long2 place these straight up and down outside the popple wood4 ,this will form a fence at each side with spaces four inches apart4 ,right up at the end where all your work centers1 a few dry branches can be forced in and down to prevent the animal from cutting away the food from the back4 ,with a little practice you can have all this fixed to a nicety4 ,the beaver entering from the lower slope of the wood and swimming up to gnaw the sticks close to the ice1 sets off the trap and in his struggles he pulls it clear from the cleft and in a few moments is drowned4 ,after all is in shape the opening in the ice is dusted over with snow and left to freeze4 ,in visiting the trap at the end of two or three days1 it is only necessary to chisel a very small hole to see if the trap or bait are displaced4 ,this can be readily ascertained by lying flat on the ice1 partly cover your head with your coat or blanket and with your face close to the hole all objects in a few moments will become clear4 ,for otter set1 the trap pole is made in the same way1 but instead of popple or birch1 a small fish is used for bait4 ,skewer it from the dorsal fin thru to the stomach and suspend it above and back of the trap at the proper distance4 ,as it appears in its natural position in the water and the skewer is hardly visible1 an otter swimming past takes it for a live fish and in dashing for his meal gets caught4 ,i have found this set very successful in creeks and small rivers1 even in setting out from the shore4 ,otters1 like mink1 have their feeding grounds on lakes and connecting rivers and are sure to skirt the shores in swimming down or up stream4 ,if the stream is very broad it will be as well to have a trap on each shore and thus enhance the certainty of getting his fur4 ,the best fish for an otter set is white fish or trout a pound and a half to two pounds4 ,by changing the bait once a week your trap can be kept set all winter without getting out of order4 ,illustration3 ,,skinning ,a ,,bob ,,cat4 ,back of this article ,i mentioned chisel4 ,a chisel is almost a necessity to a trapper1 especially if the ice is thick4 ,with only an axe the trapper gets splashed all over and when this freezes he is in a most uncomfortable state4 ,a good strong ice chisel can be had in the ordinary one and a half-inch carpenter's mortising chisel4 ,have a hole drilled thru both sides of the socket about three-quarters of an inch from the rim1 carry a stout screw in your pocket and the chisel in your bag or bundle4 ,when necessary to use the chisel for ice trenching1 cut a dry sound young sapling1 six feet long1 take off most of the bark and point the end the required length and shape off the socket by knocking the end of the handle against a nearby tree or rock4 ,the chisel becomes firmly fixed4 ,now introduce the screw into one of the holes and with your axe bang it clear thru and out on the other side4 ,the screw used for this purpose should be one and three-quarters inches long4 ,when finished with your chisel1 if not likely to be required again at that place1 it may be chopped off the handle and at your first fire the socket part can be placed in hot ashes or close to the blaze until the wood stump is so charred that it will readily scrape out1 securing the screw for another time4 ,ice chisels are indispensable to any one trapping beaver1 otter or mink1 and no ,indian would consider his outfit complete without one4 ,i have seen them made out of the prong of a deer antler4 ,this was before the imported article was introduced into the far back country4 ,the horn was sharpened to a cutting edge at the business end and the shank lashed to the handle with deer skin thongs4 ,,chapter ,,xxix4 ,,skinning ,,and ,,stretching4 ,much importance should be attached to the skinning and stretching of all kinds of skins so as to command the highest commercial value4 ,the fisher1 otter1 foxes1 lynx1 marten1 mink1 ermine1 civet1 cats and skunk should be cased1 that is1 taken off whole4 ,commence with the knife in the center of one hind foot and slit up the inside of the leg1 up to and around the vent and down the other leg in a like manner4 ,cut around the vent1 taking care not to cut the lumps or glands in which the musk of certain animals is secreted1 then strip the skin from the bone of the tail with the aid of a split stick gripped firmly in the hand while the thumb of the other hand presses against the animal's back just above4 ,make no other slits in the skin except in the case of the skunk and otter1 whose tails require to be split1 spread1 and tacked on a board4 ,turn the skin back over the body1 leaving the pelt side out and the fur side inward1 and by cutting a few ligaments1 it will peel off very readily4 ,care should be taken to cut closely around the nose1 ears and lips1 so as not to tear the skin4 ,have a board made about the size and shape of the three-board stretcher1 only not split in halves4 ,this board is to put the skin over in order to hold it better while removing particles of fat and flesh which adheres to it while skinning1 which can be done with a blunt-edged knife1 by scraping the skin from the tail down toward the nose--the direction in which the hair roots grow--never scrape up the other way or you will injure the fiber of the skin1 and care should be taken not to scrape too hard1 for if the skin fiber is injured its value is decreased4 ,illustration3 ,,single ,,and ,,three ,,board ,,stretcher4 ,now1 having been thoroughly fleshed1 as the above process is called1 the skin is ready for stretching1 which is done by inserting the two halves of the three-board stretcher and drawing the skin over the boards to its fullest extent1 with the back on one side and the belly on the other1 and tacking it fast by driving in a small nail an inch or so from each side of the tail near the edges of the skin2 also1 in like manner the other side4 ,now insert the wedge and drive it between the halves almost its entire length4 ,care should be taken1 however1 to not stretch the skin so much as to make the fur appear thin and thus injure its value4 ,now put a nail in the root of the tail and fasten it to the wedge2 also1 draw up all slack parts and fasten4 ,care should be taken to have both sides of the skin of equal length1 which can be done by lapping the leg flippers over each other4 ,now draw up the under lip and fasten1 and pull the nose down until it meets the lip and tack it fast1 and then the skin is ready to hang away to cure4 ,do not dry skins at a fire or in the sun1 or in smoke4 ,it often burns them when they will not dress and are of no value4 ,dry in a well-covered shed or tent where there is a free circulation of air1 and never use any preparation1 such as alum and salt1 as it only injures them for market4 ,never stretch the noses out long1 as some trappers are inclined to do1 but treat them as above described1 and they will command better values4 ,fur buyers are inclined to class long-nosed skins as southern and pay a small price for them1 as ,southern skins are much lighter in fur than those of the ,north4 ,the badger1 beaver1 bear1 raccoon and wolf must always be skinned open2 that is1 ripped up the belly from vent to chin after the following manner3 ,cut across the hind legs as if to be cased and then rip up the belly4 ,the skin can then be removed by flaying as in skinning a beef4 99 99 99 ,another experienced trapper says3 ,the animals which should be skinned open are bear1 beaver1 raccoon1 badger1 timber wolf and wolverines4 ,the way to do this is to rip the skin open from the point of the lower jaw1 in a straight line1 to the vent4 ,then rip it open on the back of the hind legs1 and the inside of the front legs1 and peel the skin carefully off the body4 ,beaver1 however1 should not have the front legs split open and the tail1 having no fur1 is of course cut off4 ,if the skin is a fine one1 and especially in the case of bear1 the feet should not be cut off1 but should be skinned1 leaving the claws on4 ,i would also advise saving the skull1 and the proper way to clean it is to scrape the flesh off with a knife4 ,when the animal is skinned1 roll the skin up with the fur side out and put it in your pack4 ,see that there are no burrs or lumps of mud in the fur1 before you do any fleshing4 ,my way of fleshing furs--there may be better ways--is to draw the skin over a smooth board1 made for the purpose and scraping1 or peeling1 with a blunt edged knife4 ,commence at the tail1 and scrape towards the head1 otherwise you may injure the fibre of the hide4 ,over the back and shoulders of most animals is a thin layer of flesh4 ,this should be removed1 and when done1 there should be nothing remaining but the skin and fur4 ,raccoon and muskrat are easily fleshed by pinching the flesh between the edge of the knife and the thumb4 ,for stretching boards1 ,i prefer a three board stretcher1 but a plain board will answer4 ,for muskrats1 use a single board4 ,open skins are best stretched in frames or hoops1 but it is all right to stretch them on the wall on the inside of a building4 ,the boards shown in the cut are1 to my notion1 the proper shapes1 and ,i would advise making a good supply of them before the season commences4 ,illustration3 ,,some ,,stretching ,,patterns4 ,to use these three board stretchers1 insert the two halves of the board in the skin1 draw the skin down and fasten the hind legs1 with tacks1 to the edges of the boards4 ,this stretches the hide long4 ,then insert the wedge between the two boards1 which will stretch the skin out to its fullest extent1 and give it the proper shape4 ,finish by fastening with tacks1 pulling the nose over the point of the board1 and drawing the skin of the lower jaw up against the nose4 ,hang the furs in a cool1 dry place and as soon as they are dry1 remove them from the boards4 ,fox skins should be turned with the fur side out1 after removing from the board4 ,in using the hoop stretcher1 the hide is laced inside the hoop1 with twine1 the skin of the coon being stretched square and the beaver round4 ,all other furs should be stretched so as not to draw them out of their natural shape4 ,if the weather is warm and the furs are likely to taint1 salt them4 ,a salted skin is better than a tainted one4 ,put salt in the tail1 and punch a hole in the end of the tail1 with a pointed wire1 to let the water drain out1 or split the tail up about one-half inch from tip4 ,the skin of the bear is1 perhaps1 more likely to spoil than any other1 and the ears especially1 are likely to taint and slip the fur4 ,to prevent this1 slit the ears open on the inside1 skin them back almost to the edge and fill them with salt1 also salt the base of the ears1 on the flesh side of the hide4 99 99 99 ,in stretching1 says a ,north ,dakota trapper1 we use a one board stretcher as follows3 ,put on the fur after you have fleshed it1 the four feet on one side and the tail on the other4 ,tack down the hind feet and the tail1 then take a piece of board about #a x #a_/d inches 7this would be about the correct size for a mink7 rounded off except on one side4 ,put it below the fur on the side where the feet are1 tie the front feet4 ,when you are going to take off the fur1 pull out the small board and the fur will come off easy4 ,illustration3 ,,dakota ,,trapper',s ,,method4 ,a contrivance which ,i have found useful in skinning is made of a piece of stiff wire #ah inches long4 ,bend this at the middle until it has the shape of ,v with the ends about #h inches apart4 ,bend up an inch at each end to form a hook and when skinning1 after cutting around the hind feet1 hook into the large tendons1 hang on a nail or over limb1 etc41 and go ahead with both hands4 ,the wire must be nearly as large as a slate pencil and will work all right from foxes down to mink4 ,trappers will find this a great help in skinning animals after they have become cold4 ,young trappers should use this simple device as they will be less liable to cut holes in the skin4 ,it pays to be careful in skinning animals properly as well as to stretch them correctly1 for both add to their market value4 ,illustration3 ,,holder ,,for ,,skinning4 ,how many trappers save the skulls of their larger game8 ,all the skulls of bear1 puma or mountain lion1 wolves1 foxes and sometimes those of lynx and wild cat are of ready sale if they contain good sets of teeth4 ,several parties buy these skulls for cash4 ,to prepare them the bulk of the flesh should be removed and the brain and eyes also4 ,probably the easiest way to accomplish this is to boil the skull with flesh on in an old pot until the meat begins to get tender4 ,then1 while hot1 it may easily be cut away1 and by enlarging the hole at the back of the skull the brain may be scooped out4 ,they should be watched carefully as if boiled too long the teeth drop out1 bones separate and render the skull worthless4 ,it is safe1 but more tedious to clean them with a sharp knife without boiling4 ,the dealers pay from #ej;c for a bear skull to #ae;c for a fox1 tho taxidermists and furriers often pay much more4 ,the ,british ,columbia ,government pays bounties upon the skulls1 only ,i think this is a good idea as the skins are not mutilated and depreciated by scalping1 punching or cutting as usual4 ,save a few good skulls and add dollars to the value of your catch4 99 99 99 ,take two pieces of ,no4 #i fence wire about #cj inches long1 writes an ,ohio coon hunter and trapper1 file one end sharp1 then commence at each hind foot and punch the wire thru close to the edge as in sewing1 taking stitches an inch or so long until you get to the front foot1 then pull the hide along the wire just far enough so the top and bottom will stretch out to make it square1 or a few inches longer than the width is better4 ,illustration3 ,,wire ,,coon ,,method4 ,put #c or #d nails in each side1 then commence at the top and tack all but the head1 then pull the bottom down even with the sides1 not tacking the head1 which lets it draw down into the hide1 then tack the head4 ,this is an easy and good way to handle coon skins making them nearly square when stretched4 ,many inexperienced trappers stretch coon skins too long and draw out the head and neck4 ,this can be avoided by following instructions given here4 ,coon can be cased but most dealers prefer to have them stretched open4 99 99 99 ,get a lot of steel wire1 says a ,missouri trapper who uses old umbrella wires1 the round solid ones4 ,sharpen one end1 take your coon skin and run one wire up each side and one across each end4 ,in putting these wires in do it like the old woman knits1 that is1 wrap the hide around the wire and stick it thru about every inch4 ,now cut six small twigs1 make them the proper length and notch the ends1 and you will soon have your hide stretched expert trapper style4 ,illustration3 ,,wire ,,and ,,twig ,,coon ,,method4 ,the advantage of this is you can carry stretchers enough for twenty-five skins in one hand and don't have to hunt up a barn door and box of tacks and hammer every time you want to stretch one4 ,you can stretch in one-fourth the time it would take to tack up on a board1 and you will have it in first class style the first time and not have to pull out a tack here and stretch a little more there4 99 99 99 ,i have always used the whole board 7not split into two pieces and a wedged shape piece as some do71 writes a ,massachusetts trapper1 and made as follows3 ,for mink ,i use a #c_/h inch board about #dj inches in length1 #d inches wide at the large end1 tapering to about #b #a_/b inches at the small end with the edges planed down from near the middle of the board to the edge1 leaving a thin edge and sandpapered down smooth4 ,i make the board of this length for the reason that it sometimes happens that a mink may have laid in a trap for several days before being taken out1 and if under water it is not always easy to determine the exact length of time it has been in the trap1 and there may be a possibility that if put on the board to dry that having laid so long it will taint before it will get thoroughly dry4 ,i have seen them in a case of this kind where several and perhaps nearly all the hairs on the end of the tail would shed or pull out thereby damaging the skin to a greater or less extent4 ,now when ,i get a mink in this condition after pulling on the board and tacking all around1 ,i split the tail open after which ,i lay it open and tack all around the same way you would with an otter skin4 ,by employing this means you will often save the loss of the tail by thus tainting and a corresponding loss on the value of the skin4 ,the value of the mink skin is in no way damaged by this process4 ,some dealers prefer to have all the skins they buy cured in this manner4 ,for stretching the muskrat skin ,i also use a board of the same thickness as for mink1 about #bj inches in length1 #f #a_/b or #g inches at the large end with a slightly rounding taper to a width of about #c inches at small end1 the sides planed down to a thin edge the same as for the mink boards2 in fact1 ,i prefer the same manner of stretching all cased skins1 using care not to have the boards so wide as to stretch the skins to a width much exceeding the natural width before it was placed over the board1 but giving them all the strain they will stand with reason1 lengthwise4 ,if stretched too wide it tends to make the fur thinner and lessens the value of it4 ,i usually pull the skins1 especially muskrats1 onto the boards far enough so that the smaller end will extend through the mouth of the skin for perhaps #a_/b inch1 and when the skins are sufficiently dry to remove1 all that is required is to take hold of them with a hand on either edge of the skin and give it a sharp tap on the small end1 when the skin will come off at once4 ,by stretching the skins on the boards with the back on one side1 belly on the opposite side1 they come off the boards looking smooth and uniform in width1 and command a great deal better price than if thrown on in a haphazard way on a shingle or an inch hoard badly shaped1 as a great many beginners do4 ,i have seen some shameful work done in this respect4 ,it is always necessary to remove all surplus grease and fat which can readily be done immediately after the skin is stretched1 otherwise they will heat1 sweat and mold to a certain extent after they are removed from the boards1 which injures both the appearance and sale of them4 ,it is well to look after all these little details4 ,these descriptions are given with the desire to help some of the beginners4 ,if they will start in by using a little care in stretching and having pride in their work they will find the business both more pleasant and profitable4 99 99 99 ,if convenient when going into camp1 writes an old successful trapper who has pursued the fur bearers in many states1 you should take several stretching boards for your different kinds of fur with you4 ,if not1 you can generally find a tree that will split good and you can split some out4 ,it is usually hard to find widths that are long and straight enough to bend so as to form a good shaped stretcher4 ,you should always aim to stretch and cure furs you catch in the best manner4 ,in skinning you should rip the animal straight from one heel across to the other and close to the roots of the tail on the under side4 ,work the skin loose around the bone at the base until you can grasp the bone of the tail with the first two fingers of the right hand while you place the bone between the first two fingers of the left hand4 ,then1 by pulling you will draw the entire bone from the tail which you should always do4 ,sometimes when the animal has been dead for some time the bone will not readily draw from the tail4 ,in this case cut a stick the size of your finger about eight inches long4 ,cut it away in the center until it will readily bend so that the two ends will come together4 ,then cut a notch in each part of stick just large enough to let the bone of the tail in and squeeze it out4 ,it is necessary to whittle one side of the stick at the notch so as to form a square shoulder4 ,you should have about three sizes of stretching boards for mink and fox4 ,for mink they should be from #d #a_/b inches down to #c inches and for fox from #f #a_/d inches down to #e inches wide1 and in length the fox boards may be four feet long1 and the mink boards three feet long4 ,the boards should taper slightly down to within #h inches of the end for fox1 and then rounded up to a round point4 ,the mink boards should be rounded at #d or #e inches from this point4 ,you will vary the shape of the board in proportion to the width4 ,stretching boards should not be more than #c_/h inch thick4 ,a belly strip the length or nearly the length of the boards #a #a_/d inches at the wide end1 tapering to a point at the other end and about #a_/d to #c_/h inch thick4 ,have the boards smooth and even on the edges4 ,other stretching boards should be made in proportion to the size and shape of the animal whose skin is to be stretched4 ,you should not fail to remove all the fat and flesh from the skin immediately after the skin is on the board4 ,if a skin is wet when taken from the animal it should be drawn lightly on a board until the fur is quite dry4 ,then turn the skin flesh side out and stretch4 99 99 99 ,beginning at the left1 dimensions and skins stretched on the various boards are given3 ,no4 #a4 ,mink board1 length #bh inches and #d wide4 ,no4 #b4 ,mink board1 length #bh inches and #c #a_/b wide4 ,no4 #c4 ,weasel board length #bj inches and #b #a_/b wide4 ,no4 #d4 ,muskrat board1 length #ba inches and #f inches wide4 ,no4 #e4 ,opossum board1 7small71 length #bj inches and #f #a_/b inches wide4 ,no4 #f4 ,skunk or opossum1 7medium71 length #bh inches and #g inches wide4 ,no4 #g4 ,skunk and opossum1 7large71 length #bh inches and #h inches wide4 ,illustration3 ,,size ,,of ,,stretching ,,boards4 ,old and experienced hunters and trappers know about the shape and size to make the various stretching boards for the fur bearers1 but for the guidance of beginners and those who are careless about stretching pelts1 the above description is especially meant4 ,trappers in ,southern sections will no doubt find the boards as described here too large for most of their skunk4 ,in the ,northeast the mink boards will also be too large1 but for this section 7,ohio71 they are about correct4 ,the general shape of the boards can be seen from the illustration4 99 99 99 ,one of the best ways1 writes a ,minnesota trapper1 to take off the skin of an animal is by cutting the skin around the hind legs or feet1 and then slitting the skin down inside the hind legs to the body joining the two slits between the hind legs1 then remove the skin on the tail by pushing up the thumb nail1 or a thin flat piece of wood against the bone of the tail and draw off the skin4 ,now commence to draw the body of the animal through the slit already made without enlarging it1 drawing the skin over itself1 the fur side within4 ,when the forefeet are reached1 cut the skin away from them at the wrists1 and then skin over the head until the mouth is reached when the skin should be finally removed at the lips4 ,one thing to be borne in mind when stretching a skin to dry1 is that it must be drawn tight2 another1 that it must be stretched in a place where neither the heat of a fire or that of the sun will reach it too strongly1 and it should not be washed4 ,large skins may be nailed on a wall of a shed or barn4 ,the board stretcher should be made of some thin material4 ,prepare a board of bass wood or some other light material1 two feet three inches long1 three inches and a half wide at one end1 and two inches and an eighth at the other1 and three-eighths of an inch thick4 ,chamfer it from the center to the sides almost to an edge4 ,round and chamfer the small end about an inch upon the sides4 ,split the board through the center with a knife or saw1 finally prepare a wedge of the same length and thickness1 one inch wide at the large end1 and taper to a blunt point4 ,this is a stretcher suitable for a mink1 or a marten4 ,two large sizes with similar proportions are required for the large animals1 the largest size suitable for the full grown otter and wolf1 should be five feet and a half long1 seven inches wide at the large end when fully spread by the wedge1 and six inches at the small end4 ,an intermediate size is required for the fisher1 raccoon1 fox and some other animals1 the proportions of which can be easily figured out4 ,these stretchers require that the skin of the animal should not be ripped through the belly1 but should be stripped off whole4 ,peel the skin from the body by drawing it over itself1 leaving the fur inward4 ,in this condition the skin should be drawn on to the split board 7with the back on one side and the belly on the other71 to its utmost length1 and fastened with tacks1 and then the wedge should be driven between the two halves4 ,finally1 make all fast by a tack at the root of the tail1 and another on the opposite side4 ,the skin is then stretched to its utmost capacity and it may be hung away to dry4 99 99 99 ,not alone the skulls of the larger animals1 but the skulls of any game1 the skeleton of any bird1 or fish1 has a ready market1 provided such specimens are properly cleaned1 and in perfect condition4 ,however1 the hunter or trapper must bear in mind the fact that it is the perfect specimen that is in demand1 and that a bruise on the bone literally spoils it for the curator4 ,if you will look carefully at any skull1 you will notice that some of the bones are very thin and frail1 almost like a spider web4 ,these fine bones must be preserved if they are to be of any value to the ,comparative ,anatomist1 and boiling or scraping simply ruins them4 ,so much for the explanation4 ,now the method of cleaning1 is by rotting rather than scraping or boiling4 ,take the skull 7or whole head7 and fix it solid in some can or jar1 then fill it1 or cover with water and put away for three or four weeks4 ,at the end of that time1 pour off the water and the bulk of the flesh will go too4 ,fill in with clear water again1 and repeat as often as necessary4 ,i have found that twice will do the work1 and leave the bone in good condition4 ,there is a market for most animal skulls1 if not damaged1 and it may pay to preserve all4 ,in the ,hunter-,trader-,trapper1 published at ,columbus1 ,ohio1 usually will be found advertisements of parties who buy them4 99 99 99 ,i have never had much luck with two-piece stretchers1 but use thin board stretchers in one piece with a sword stick on each side to fully stretch and admit the air to both sides of the skin4 ,this cures the skin faster and better than when only one side is exposed to the air1 says a ,maryland trapper4 ,illustration3 ,,pole ,,stretchers4 ,when off from home1 ,i use stretchers made from saplings1 as boards suitable are not to be had everywhere1 and cannot be bothered with when going light4 ,to make these1 cut osier1 willow or hickory switches1 straight and thick as the finger1 about four feet long2 cut two short pieces for rats #d and #f inches long and carefully bending the long piece4 ,nail these in with a small wire nail at each end4 ,a handful of shingle or lath nails and a clump of osier sprouts will make a full outfit of stretchers for a temporary camp4 99 99 99 ,i know it is as much value in stretching your furs and preparing them for market as it is in trapping1 writes a trapper4 ,if you have no boards1 go to your grocer or dry goods store and you can get all the boxes you want for #e or #aj cents apiece4 ,they must not be over #c_/h of an inch thick2 if they are1 plane them down smooth on both sides4 ,i make what ,i call the two piece stretcher with a wedge for muskrats4 ,take a board #bj inches long1 #c_/h inch thick1 #f inches wide large end1 #b #a_/b inches small end4 ,taper back #e inches from small end4 ,now take block plane and chaffer off each side an inch or more up and round it off4 ,round and chaffer small end the same1 almost to an edge4 ,now draw a line thru the center of the board and saw it thru4 ,make a wedge the same length and thickness1 #c_/h of an inch wide and tapering down to #a_/aj of an inch4 ,if a large skin1 push it in between the halves4 ,bore a hole in large end and hang up in a cool ventilated place to dry4 ,after three days pull out wedge1 and your fur will slip right off without tearing4 ,if the boards should warp over1 tack a strip across the large end4 ,the mink stretchers are made on the same plan4 ,a board the same thickness1 #cj inches long1 #c #a_/b inches wide1 taper down #b #a_/h small end round chaffer4 ,for large mink insert wedge made one inch wide4 ,taper down to #b_/h4 ,for skunk and coon they are also good1 only they are made on a larger scale4 ,now a word about casing4 ,pull your hide on so the back is on one side and the belly on the other4 ,pull nose over small end #a_/b inch4 ,put two tacks on each side1 now pull down tight to large end and put two tacks each side1 lay board on bench and take an old case knife1 scrape off all meat and fat and be careful not to scrape too thin1 so as not to cut the fibre of the skin4 ,after you have scraped the flesh off1 insert the wedge and your skin will be tight4 ,do not stretch your hide so it will make your fur look thin4 99 99 99 ,this is my way of stretching coon hide2 use four-penny nails and use either the inside or outside of some old building1 inside is the best4 ,drive the first nail thru nose4 ,this holds the hide for starting4 ,pull each forward leg up 7not out7 on a level with nose and about seven or eight inches from nose according to size of the coon4 ,drive next nail at root of tail1 and pull down1 moderately tight4 ,now pull each hind leg out about one inch wider than the fore legs and a little below the tail nail4 ,now use a nail every inch and pull the hide up between the forward legs and nose1 until it comes straight across4 ,next1 treat the bottom of the hide the same as the top4 ,use plenty of nails4 ,to finish down the sides1 drive a nail first on one side and then on the other until finished4 ,you will find when done that the hide is nearly square with no legs sticking out the sides and no notches in the skin4 ,,chapter ,,xxx4 ,,handling ,,and ,,grading4 ,,mink should be cased fur side in and stretched on boards for several days or until dry4 ,,skunk should be cased fur side in and stretched on boards for several days4 ,the white stripe cut out blackened1 etc41 reduces the value4 ,,raccoon should be stretched open 7ripped up the belly7 and nailed on boards or the inside of a building4 ,some dealers allow as much for coon cased1 from any section1 while others prefer that only ,southern coon be cased4 ,,foxes of the various kinds should be cased and put on boards fur side in for a few days1 or until dry4 ,as the pelt is thin they soon dry1 when they must be taken off and should be turned fur side out4 ,in shipping see that they are not packed against furs flesh side out4 ,,lynx should be cased and after drying properly are turned fur side out1 same as foxes4 ,,otter are cased and stretched fur side in4 ,the pelt being thick and heavy1 takes several days to dry properly4 ,they are shipped flesh side out4 ,sea otter are handled the same as fox1 lynx and marten1 that is1 fur side out4 ,,beaver are split but stretched round and should be left in the hoop or stretcher for several days4 ,,bear should be handled open and stretched carefully4 ,in skinning be careful and leave nose1 claws and ears on the hide4 ,,wolves can be handled same as bear1 also wolverine4 ,,fisher should be cased and stretched flesh side out1 but may be sent to market same as foxes or fur out4 ,,marten should be stretched and dried on boards1 fur side in1 but turned as soon as dried4 ,,opossum are stretched on boards fur side in and are left in that condition after removing the boards4 ,cut the tails off when skinning--they have no value4 ,,muskrat should be stretched fur side in and a few days on the boards is sufficient4 ,they are left as taken off1 that is1 fur side in4 ,cut the tails off when skinning--they are worthless4 ,,weasel should be cased1 fur side in4 ,the pelts are thin and soon dry4 ,leave fur side in after taking off boards4 ,,badger are split and should be nailed to the inside of a building to dry4 ,,civet ,,cat should be cased and stretched on boards fur side in4 ,when dry remove boards and leave fur side in4 ,,ring ,,tail ,,cats should be cased and after removing boards are generally left fur side in for market4 ,,wild ,,cat are cased and stretched on boards4 ,they may be turned fur out or left as taken from the stretchers1 fur side in4 ,,house ,,cat are cased and stretched on boards fur side in4 ,they are sent to market usually fur side in4 ,,rabbits are cased fur in and1 as the pelt is thin1 soon dry4 ,they are shipped fur side in4 ,,panther are treated much the same as bear4 ,care should be taken in skinning to leave claws1 ears1 nose1 etc41 on the skin for mounting purposes4 99 99 99 ,my experience has been that the house which makes only four grades of prime goods is the house that you will receive the largest checks from for your collection1 writes a ,michigan collector of #ej years' experience4 ,so many grades quoted makes it possible for a firm to successfully squelch you a little every time you ship and yet you can have no reasonable excuse to complain for when you ship1 you know that in some houses there is a grade for nearly every skin you send4 ,so ,i1 for one1 would rather risk the fewer grades4 ,a trapper from ,wisconsin says3 ,for sample1 say mink are worth from #be cents to #c4jj4 ,there would be #bge prices between the extremes4 ,now if he is a fur buyer ,i certainly pity the trappers that would have to take those #bge different prices for their mink4 ,a man should be able to know the difference between grades ,no4 #a1 #b1 #c and #d1 and when he does he is then able to give a fair and honest price for every skin he buys4 ,if he doesn't know the difference then1 he had better get a job clerking in a hotel or sawing wood4 99 99 99 ,many have requested that the difference in the various grades of skins be explained and for their benefit1 as well as others of little experience1 the following may prove instructive4 ,raw furs are assorted into four grades1 viz3 ,no4 #a1 ,no4 #b1 ,no4 #c and ,no4 #d4 ,with the exception of skunk and muskrat most houses subdivide the ,no4 #a skins into large1 medium and small4 ,in addition to this many firms quote a range of prices about as follows3 ,mink1 ,northern ,new ,york1 large #f4jj to #h4jj4 ,would it not be more satisfactory to quote one price only8 ,it is generally known that ,minnesota mink are large4 ,from that state a ,no4 #a medium mink is as large as a ,no4 #a large from ,maine1 where mink are rather small4 ,but as the dealers on their price lists quote the various states and sections1 why not quote one price only as follows3 ,,mink1 ,,northern ,,new ,,york1 ,,no4 #a4 ,large1 ,medium1 ,small1 ,no4 #b1 ,no4 #c1 ,no4 #d1 #g4jj4 #e4jj4 #c4jj4 #a4ej4 #j4ge4 #j4bj4 ,these figures1 of course1 are only given for illustration and are not meant to show value4 ,furs from the various parts of ,north ,america have their peculiar characteristics and it is easy for the man of experience to tell in what part of the country a pelt was caught4 ,it may be shipped by a collector hundreds of miles from where caught1 but if there are many in the collection the expert will soon detect it4 ,this knowledge1 however1 only comes with years of experience4 ,prime skins are those caught during cold weather and the pelt after drying a few days is bright and healthy appearing4 ,unprime skins are those that turn blue or black after being stretched for a time4 ,usually the darker the pelt the poorer the fur4 ,if only slightly blued the pelt may go back only one grade1 while if black it is apt to be no better than ,no4 #c or ,no4 #d and may be trash of no value4 ,springy skins1 as the name indicates1 are those taken toward the last of the season or in the spring and tho often prime pelted1 have begun to shed4 ,the beginner is often deceived1 for he thinks if the pelt is prime1 the fur is4 ,foxes and other animals are often rubbed toward spring1 which of course lessens their value4 ,a ,no4 #a skin must be not only average in size but free from cuts1 etc4 ,no unprime skin will grade better than ,no4 #b4 ,skunk1 to be ,no4 #a or black1 must be prime in pelt1 fair size and stripe not extending beyond the shoulders4 ,the day that only star black were taken for ,no4 #a passed1 for most trappers and shippers know better now4 ,a ,no4 #b1 or short striped skunk1 is prime and the stripes1 if narrow1 may extend nearly to the tail4 ,a small ,no4 #a or a blued ,no4 #a is graded ,no4 #b4 ,a ,no4 #c or long stripe has two stripes extending the entire length1 but there must be as much black between the stripes as either of the white stripes4 ,in some of the states1 such as ,minnesota1 ,iowa1 the ,dakotas1 etc41 skunk are large and are nearly all striped the same--long narrow stripes--but owing to their size they are worth about the same as the eastern short stripe or ,no4 #b4 ,a ,no4 #d1 broad or white skunk1 is prime but has two broad stripes extending down the back4 ,most dealers class skunk as ,no4 #d if either white stripe contains more white than there is black between the two stripes4 ,all unprime skunk are graded down to ,no4 #b1 #c and #d according to depth of fur and stripe4 ,a ,no4 #a skunk in stripe1 but blue1 becomes a ,no4 #b1 or if badly blued ,no4 #c or #d2 a ,no4 #b skunk in stripe but blue becomes a ,no4 #c2 a ,no4 #c in stripe but blue1 a ,no4 #d2 a ,no4 #d in stripe but blue generally goes into trash4 ,in fact1 if badly blued1 any of the grades may be thrown to trash4 ,muskrat are assorted into four grades--spring1 winter1 fall and kitts4 ,spring rats are known as ,no4 #a2 winter1 ,no4 #b2 fall1 ,no4 #c2 ,kitts1 ,no4 #d4 ,no4 #a or spring rats are those taken in ,march and ,april4 ,the pelt is then of a reddish color and is entirely free from dark spots4 ,a few spring rats may be caught earlier than ,march1 but so long as they show dark spots they are not ,no4 #a4 ,no4 #b1 or winter rats1 are pretty well furred1 but there are dark streaks and spots in the hide usually on the back4 ,no4 #c or fall are not full furred and the pelt is far from prime4 ,the dark streaks show much more than later in the season4 ,no4 #d1 or kitts1 are only partly grown or if larger are badly damaged4 ,opossum is the only animal that may have a prime pelt but an unprime coat of fur4 ,this makes opossum rather difficult to assort unless turned fur side out4 ,if opossum have been properly skinned and stretched they will1 when unprime1 show a dark blue spot on the under side at the throat4 ,the plainer this spot the poorer the fur4 ,good unprime skins are ,no4 #b2 poor unprime skins1 ,no4 #c2 the very poor and stagey1 no fur1 are ,no4 #d1 generally known as trash and of no value4 ,the other fur-bearers1 such as mink1 otter1 beaver1 fox1 wolves1 lynx1 wild cat1 fisher1 raccoon1 bear1 badger1 civet cat1 weasel1 etc41 are graded much the same that is1 all skins to be ,no4 #a must be caught in season1 when the fur is prime1 at which time the pelt is healthy appearing--never blue or black--must be of average size1 correctly skinned1 handled and free of cuts or shot holes4 ,skins may be unprime from several causes1 viz3 caught too early1 improperly handled1 under size1 etc4 ,unprime skins are graded ,no4 #b1 #c and #d according to how inferior they are4 ,the fairly well furred unprime skins are graded ,no4 #b2 the low furred unprime skins are thrown to ,no4 #c2 the poorly furred are thrown to ,no4 #d1 while low stagey skins go to trash4 ,some skins altho prime are so small that they grade ,no4 #c4 ,this1 however1 is the exception rather than the rule4 ,usually if prime1 the under size will only put the skin down one grade4 99 99 99 ,i have bought some for a number of years1 writes a collector1 and know that some trappers are like some farmers1 they want as much money for a bushel of dirty wheat as their neighbor gets for a bushel of clean wheat4 ,i have had skunk and opossum hides offered me that had a pound or two of tainted fat on them1 and skins that were taken out of season1 for which they expect to get ,no4 #a prices4 ,there are some who stretch their skins in the shape of an oblong triangle and leave flesh enough on to make their dinner4 ,stretch your hides as near the shape of the animal as possible2 don't try to make a muskrat hide as long as a mink1 or a mink as wide as a muskrat4 ,catch in season1 flesh carefully1 stretch in good shape1 always take bone out of tails1 keep in an airy building until dry and then you will not have to grumble so much at the buyer in regard to prices4 ,,chapter ,,xxxi4 ,,from ,,animal ,,to ,,market4 ,under this title1 says an experienced ,western trapper1 ,i shall endeavor to show my brother trappers how to handle pelts3 ,as soon as ,i get in from my traps 7,i use a team and wagon71 ,i feed team1 dogs and self1 then ,i proceed to skin the game in the usual manner2 when game is all skinned ,i put on my fleshing suit1 made of rubber cloth like that buggy curtains are made of1 get out my fleshing boards1 of which ,i have three sizes--large1 medium and small--for each kind of cased skins except rat1 which ,i flesh with thumb and knife4 ,the fleshing boards are like ,fig4 #a on enclosed diagram1 made of #a inch pine free from knots and dressed on both sides1 #c feet #f inches long1 and for skunk #c_/d in4 and #aj in4 wide1 tapered up to a blunt point1 edges rounded and sandpapered smooth4 ,these boards can be made of other sizes so as to fit larger or smaller pelts of other kind4 ,illustration3 ,,fleshing ,,board4 ,for a flesher ,i have tried nearly everything imaginable1 dull knives1 hardwood scrapers1 etc41 but have abandoned them all for the hatchet4 ,i use an old lath hatchet head and use it tolerably sharp2 ,i proceed as follows3 ,put pelt on board but do not fasten1 grip lower edge with left hand1 pull down hard1 place point of board against breast and use hatchet with right1 pushing down and holding hatchet nearly flat2 use plenty of elbow grease2 as fast as you get a strip cleaned off turn hide a little but do not flesh on edge of board4 ,it may not work good at first and you may cut one or two hides1 but you will soon get the knack4 ,illustration3 ,,stretching ,,frame4 ,if possible take a bitch skunk for the first as they flesh easier1 and be sure there are no burrs or chunks of mud in the fur1 or you will cut a hole the size of the burr4 ,now for the stretchers4 ,in ,fig4 #b is what ,i use2 it is something of my own invention1 and there is no patent on it4 ,it is made of any wood that will split straight1 and the dimensions are as follows3 ,pieces are #d ft4 long by #a #c_/h in4 dressed smooth2 pieces are #a #a_/b ,x #c_/h in42 will say for large skunks here they would be #aj in4 and #d #a_/b in4 ,to frame you must soak or steam the long pieces2 mitre the ends and fasten with #c;d finishing nails clinched4 ,then place in position #a in4 from ends and fasten with two #f;d finishing nails2 place in position and pull up to #h in4 from nose and fasten3 now chamfer off edges and sandpaper smooth4 ,i like this stretcher1 as it airs both sides of pelt and will dry them in half the time4 ,fig #c shows manner of fastening pelt2 on belly side it can be drawn down and fastened to tail pieces with sack needle and twine2 it is made of two or more poles fastened in the shape of a hoop4 ,in shipping furs1 bale tight2 do not ship loose in sack2 place mink and rat inside of skunk and other fur1 and always place the toughest pelts on outside4 ,by bailing tight you will avoid crinkling and they will not look mussy and will bring from #e to #aj per cent4 more4 ,now1 brother trappers1 fleshing pelts1 as ,i understand it1 is not merely taking the fat off1 but in going deeper and taking the flesh clean from the pelt so that if skunk1 the stripe will show clear the full length and reducing the weight by half4 ,on ,february #bnd ,i shipped #ae skunk1 all large2 the lot only weighed #i pounds including sack4 ,illustration3 ,,skin ,,on ,,stretcher4 ,when stretching skunk and otter skins1 if the weather is warm1 split the tails1 open and tack flat4 ,split open half way all others that have fur tails4 ,open pelts can be stretched in hoops made of one or more poles an inch or so in diameter1 and sewed in with a sack needle and heavy twine4 ,in stretching do not get the pelt so wide that the fur looks thin1 or so long and narrow that it looks as if a horse had been hitched to each end4 ,keep the natural shape of the animal as much as possible1 dry in a cool1 airy place inside1 or on the north side of a building and away from fire4 ,baling--here is where the expert trapper shows his craft1 and in baling you will see him wipe off all surplus fat and dirt and place the heavy pelts on the outside of his pack4 ,the lighter furs1 such as mink1 marten1 cat1 etc41 will be placed inside of the skins that are heavier4 ,for instance3 ,from four to eight rats or mink1 inside of a fox or skunk4 ,he will place the head of one to the tail of another1 the tails folded in4 ,he now ties a cord tightly around each end1 placing them on a square of burlap1 and with sack needle and twine draws up the sides as tight as he can2 then he folds in the ends and sews up snug4 ,furs thus packed reach the market in good shape1 and not such as they would if crammed promiscuously into a sack4 ,illustration3 ,,hoop ,,stretcher4 ,in conclusion1 boys1 let me suggest a maxim or two for your guidance3 ,prime caught and well handled furs always bring top prices4 ,take pride in your catch1 no matter how small4 ,while the heading of this chapter is ,from ,animal to ,market it is well when shipping to request the dealer to grade and send value4 ,if satisfactory1 write to send on check4 ,if not satisfactory1 have dealer return furs4 ,when shipping furs under these conditions see that no green skins are sent--only properly cured ones4 ,while some dealers offer to pay expressage both ways we hardly think this fair and if no deal is made the dealer should pay the expressage one way and the shipper the other4 ,the ,hunter-,trader-,trapper1 published at ,columbus1 ,ohio1 in the interests of hunters1 trappers and dealers in raw furs contains a great deal of information that will be of value along the line of shipping furs as well as trapping methods1 etc4 ,,chapter ,,xxxii4 ,,miscellaneous ,,information4 ,how to ,tan ,skins4 ,i give below several successful receipts for tanning skins and furs of all kinds1 but if you have never tanned skins before ,i would advise you to make your first attempt on some skin of small value1 writes an old hunter and trapper4 ,remove all flesh from a skin before putting thru the tanning process by laying it over what is called a fleshing beam and scraping with a dull knife2 the fleshing beam is nothing more than a beam with edges rounded and a log peeled of the bark will answer the purpose very well4 ,first remove the hair from the hide by putting in #e gallons of water1 #b gallons of slacked lime1 #b quarts of wood ashes and #c ounces of soda4 ,after the hair has become loose1 try soaking in this mixture1 remove it by scraping it off with a stick 7be careful not to let it get on the hands1 as it is very irritating to the skin74 ,this receipt can be altered according to the number of hides you have to tan4 ,the amount given here is enough for #b or #c hides 7such as goat1 dog and animals of that size47 ,next draw the lime from the skin by putting it in a bath composed of #e gallons of water1 #b quarts of wheat bran1 #d ounces of acetic acid and #a_/b pound of salt4 ,finally put the skins in a mixture of #e gallons of water1 #a pound of salt1 #a #a_/b pounds of gambia1 and #e ounces of acetic acid4 ,leave the skins in each process about three days1 take them out often and pull and work them4 ,when you think the skin is done1 take it and put it on a stretcher like a coon stretcher1 but of course altered to fit the skin you are tanning2 stretch the skin tight but not too tight and put in the sun2 at intervals of half an hour apply with a brush or rag mixtures number three until the skin will soak up no more4 ,do this about three times and then put the skin in the shade or some cool place where there is a free circulation of air to dry4 ,lastly1 when dry1 oil flesh side of the skin lightly4 ,this leather if tanned right is the best you can get1 but the objections is that a trapper in the woods does not always have a drug store near to purchase the tanning material which is rather expensive1 so ,i will give a few cheap methods also4 ,the way the ,indians tan skins in the woods is to take the brains of the animal and rub the flesh side of the skin with them until it is rubbed in good2 they then let them dry1 working and pulling them until thoroughly dry4 ,to tan mole1 squirrel and such skins1 draw the skin over a corn cob or board and place it in the sun1 then apply sweet oil every #bd hours4 ,after doing this about five times rub over with fine alum4 ,to tan for lashes1 first remove hair1 then put in #a #a_/b handfuls of alum and #c handfuls of salt in #b gallons of water2 this leather is all right until it gets wet1 then it is ruined4 ,to tan for furs1 rub flesh side of the skin with two parts saltpeter and one part alum1 roll and let it dry1 then work soft4 ,to dry the hair side of skins1 take two parts wheat bran and one part clean sand1 heat it and rub it in the hair side of skin till dry4 ,to tan light deer skins and such skins as sheep1 dog1 etc41 put in three quarts of rain water1 one ounce of sulphuric acid and a handful of salt2 put in the skin1 stir around for about five minutes1 take it out and work dry1 then it can be smoked and is ready for use4 ,i think that by following the above directions closely you can tan any skin that can be tanned4 ,camps and ,how ,to ,build ,them4 ,the trapper who spends the entire trapping season far from civilization must know how to make a comfortable camp or he is likely to pay dearly for his lack of knowledge4 ,especially is this the case if his trapping is done in the far ,north where the winters are long and severe4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,home ,,shanty4 ,the trapper should have one good home shanty to be used as a base of supplies for storing furs1 etc4 ,he should also have small camps located along his lines at convenient distances so that he can spend the night with some comfort if he has gone too far to return to the home camp4 ,the home camp is generally a substantial log shack4 ,it should be located in a sheltered spot1 if possible1 on some little knoll or slightly elevated spot of ground and as close to good fire wood and good drinking water as possible4 ,the proper size of camp depends on the number of persons in the party4 ,a shanty #aj x #ab feet inside is large enough for two persons4 ,if it is larger it will be harder to keep warm4 ,for a camp of this size the logs should be cut #ab and #ad feet long so as to allow for the notching of the corners4 ,of course the logs should be straight and they should be as near the same thickness as possible4 ,having selected a spot for the camp and cleaned away the brush1 etc41 commence by laying two of the #ad foot logs parallel with each other and about ten feet apart4 ,cut notches in the ends of these logs1 cutting down about half the thickness of the logs and lay two of the #ab foot logs in the notches4 ,the next step is the floor which should be made of straight poles about five or six inches thick and #aa or #ab feet long4 ,they should be fitted down solidly on the two long logs and may be flattened on top with an axe1 or with an adz after the camp is finished4 ,then fit in two more #ad foot logs which will hold the floor poles down solid4 ,the door frame or boxing should be cut off square at the ends and butted up against the door frame and held there by driving spikes thru the frame into the logs4 ,use all the large logs on one side so as to be ready for the roof4 ,the simplest1 as well as one of the best1 kind of roofs is made of poles1 chinked with moss and covered with tar paper or birch bark4 ,the bark roof is the most lasting but requires more work4 ,the door may be made of split cedar1 or1 if cedar is not to be found1 it may be hewn out of almost any kind of wood4 ,for windows1 a couple of small panes of glass may be fitted in openings1 cut between the logs1 and all the cracks should be chinked with moss to make it warm4 ,there are a number of good stoves in the market1 but ,i prefer to make my own stoves4 ,a good stove may be made of sheet iron by bending it so as to form the top and two sides1 riveting an end in behind and hinging a door in front4 ,it has no bottom1 being set in a box of earth1 but be sure that there is enough dirt or it will burn thru into the floor4 ,holes should be cut in top for pipe and cooking pots and strips of hoop iron should be riveted on inside to stiffen top4 ,for stopping camps along the trap lines1 the ,indian tepee or wigwam is as good as any4 ,they may be made of birch bark or tar paper and if they are covered thickly with boughs and banked with snow it will only require a small fire to keep them warm4 ,if you are fortunate enough to possess a rabbit skin blanket such as are made by the ,chippewa ,indians you will not need to keep a fire at night4 ,trappers ,shelter4 ,i noticed under the head of ,short ,letters in ,january number of ,h-,t-,t where one ,bacellus of ,new ,york wishes to know something more about camps in the woods1 or how to keep dry and warm in cold and wet weather1 writes a ,michigan trapper4 ,this is how ,i build a camp along a trapper's trail3 ,illustration3 ,a ,,line ,,shanty4 ,i cut the logs about #i feet long1 cut them small enough so one man would be able to handle them4 ,if cut from dry cedar or other light wood1 they can be of good size4 ,i lay the logs up on three sides until the walls are about #e #a_/b feet high1 then ,i procure two stakes about #h or #i feet long with a crotch on one end2 the other end ,i sharpen so it can be driven in the ground outside the open end of the camp4 ,there are also two shorter stakes placed inside of the camp just opposite the outside ones and tied together at top with a withe1 wire or piece of rope--these stakes are intended to hold the ends of the logs together1 and also act as a support for the roof1 which is made shanty fashion4 ,i next place a pole about #e inches thick by #aj feet long across from one crotched stake to the other4 ,now from the back wall to the top hole ,i place scoops made out of split logs hollowed out with axe4 ,they are placed split side up and another scoop placed over the first two4 ,short pieces of logs are put in under the last outside scoops and every crack is mossed up tight1 and a bunk placed across the end about a foot from the ground1 and fire built in the center of open side4 ,by placing #b crotched stakes in the ground like the first pair about #e feet from them1 and placing a pole across the tops and then two short brace pieces between these two top poles4 ,after this1 straight poles ten feet long1 about what one man can handle1 are taken and placed all around the outside or open end of camp4 ,this prevents the smoke from whirling 'round the camp1 and it goes up straight4 ,,end ,,of ,,steel ,,traps