,illu/ration ,! ,copel& ,,me?od ,illu/ration ,,index4 ,,page ,equipm5t #c ,tools ,requir$ & _! ,use #c ,=mula = ,clean+ ,fluid #f ,=mula1 h[ to make #g ,=mula = ,mo? ,prev5tative #g ,h[ to ,use ,clean+ ,fluids #g ,h[ to ,prep>e ,g>m5ts to be ,clean$ #g ,h[ to ,clean ,g>m5ts #h ,to ,remove ,/a9s1 etc4 #ac ,repair+ #ad ,d>n+ a ,?ree-,corn]$ ,te> #bj ,alt]ations #ba ,press+ #bh ,h[ to ,clean ,cutaway1 ,pr9ce ,alb]t1 ,milit>y & o!r ,uni=ms #cc ,h[ to ,clean & ,press ,ladies' ,jackets1 etc4 #cc ,selection ( ,mat]ials1 etc4 #cg ,c>e ( ,clo!s #ch ,fold+ ( ,clo!s #db ,te/+ ,goods #dc ,price ,li/ = ,clean+ & ,press+ #dd ,h[ to ,dress & ,:at to ,we> #de ,bus9ess ,etiquette #ee ,! ,copel& ,,me?od ,a ,complete ,manual = ,clean+1 ,repair+1 ,alt]+ & ,press+ all k9ds ( ,g>m5ts = ,m5 & ,wom51 at home or = bus9ess4 ,copyright$ #aijh4 ,,by ,,vanness ,,copel&1 ,,buffalo1 ,n4 ,y4 ,,introductory4 ,high bir? & good bre$+ are ! privileges ( ! few2 b ! habits ( a g5tleman may be acquir$ by any man4 ,neatness is n an art requir+ ! /udy ( a life "t2 on ! contr>y x's pr9ciples are simple1 & _! practical application involves only ord9>y c>e4 ,to ga9 ! good op9ion ( ^? :o surr\nd u is ! fir/ int]e/ & ! second duty ( m5 9 e pr(ession ( life4 ,fir/ impressions are apt to be p]man5t2 x is !re=e ( importance t !y %\ld be favorable4 ,frequ5tly ! dress ( an individual is t circum/ance f :i* y fir/ =m y\r op9ion4 ,x is ev5 m prom95t ?an mann]4 ,x is inde$ "o ( ! fir/ ?+s notic$ 9 a casual enc\nt] or dur+ ! fir/ int]view4 ,*e/]field has said t ,he c\ld n help conceiv+ "s idea ( ! p's s5se & "* f ! appe>ance ( _! dress :i* !y appe>$ :5 fir/ introduc$ to him4 ,9 ! prep>ation ( ?is book1 x has be5 ! aim ( ! mak] to give 9 a concise =m1 all t is prop]ly embrac$ 9 a compreh5sive "w on n only keep+ our w>drobes 9 su* a /ate z to cause u to appe> to ! be/ advantage1 b also to give a complete in/ruction 9 ! manipulation ( g>m5ts & tools us$ 9 ! process ( prop]ly clean+1 press+ & repair+ all k9ds ( g>m5ts = m5 & wom54 ,a few h9ts may be helpful to ! beg9n] z well z to ^? 9 ! bus9ess4 ,obs]ve a well dress$ man or woman on ! /reet or else:]e1 note ! make up & fitt+ po9ts ( _! g>m5ts1 ?is w help ! /ud5t to "k good "w1 & try to d z well :5 do+ ! "w himself4 ,:5 le>n+ ! me?od ( clean+1 repair+ & press+ all k9ds ( g>m5ts = m5 & wom51 x is a good idea1 if possible1 to h a g>m5t ( ! same sort z "o is /udy+ close at h&1 foll[+ closely ! in/ructions ov] all p>ts ( ! g>m5t2 !reby und]/&+ ! tea*+s bett] & become m famili> ) ! "w4 ,%\ld a g>m5t ne$ repair+ ( any k9d or a button sew$ on1 d x & *>ge accord+ly4 ,nev] give a cu/om] clo!s t are damp f press+1 all[ !m to dry be=e we>+ or deliv]+4 ,,lesson ,i4 ,,equipm5t4 ,introduction3 ,a few h9ts to ! beg9n] z well z to ^? n[ 9 ! bus9ess4 ,! tools requir$ & ! be/ me?od ( us+ same1 = "w at home or = bus9ess4 ,,tools ,,requir$ ,,& ,,_! ,,use3 ,! tools requir$ = clean+1 repair+ & press+ at home1 or = bus9ess are z foll[s3 ,= "w at home1 use an ord9>y kit*5 table ) smoo? top4 ,= use 9 bus9ess1 a table eight feet long1 ?ree feet wide & ?irty in*es high 7or z high z is conv5i5t = ! press]1 ?is may be easily det]m9$ by us+74 ,?is is call$ a tailor's b5*4 ,! balance ( ! tools are ! same = "w at home or = bus9ess4 ,! kit*5 table or tailor's b5* may be us$ = sev]al purposes2 ! fir/ ( :i* is to place ! iron1 press-jack1 sponge clo?1 & g>m5t :ile clean+ & press+4 ,also = m5 to sit on :ile sew+4 ,,! ,,iron4 ,"o may use an ord9>y laundry iron 7b w\ld advise ! pur*ase ( a solid iron or tailor's goose1 weigh+ f f\rte5 to tw5ty-two p\nds1 or accord+ to "o's /r5g?71 "o may heat ! iron on a coal range1 gas or oil /ove2 or "o may use a gas or electric iron1 :i* are be+ us$ ) great satisfaction1 & are easily h&l$1 be+ ( little tr\ble to op]ate1 also do+ ! "w well4 ,h[ev]1 x is be/ to use :atev] "o consid]s mo/ conv5i5t1 *eape/ & be/ = ! locality 9 :i* "o resides4 ,! iron is heat$ & plac$ on ! iron re/1 :i* has be5 plac$ on ! table = t purpose1 to ! "r ( ! press]1 & is appli$ to ! sponge clo? 7t has be5 wrung out almo/ dry71 caus+ /eam to p5etrate t "p ( ! g>m5t be+ press$1 !reby refre%+ ! clo?4 ,! press] %\ld h control ( ! iron at all times1 also see t ! iron is n too hot be=e us+ by te/+ x on a piece ( light color$ wool5 mat]ial4 ,if x scor*es x is too hot = use1 wait = a few m9utes to cool4 ,:5 press+ move ! iron f place to place1 on ! "p to be press$1 by lift+ x cle> ea* "t1 in/ead ( %ov+ x along z "s d4 7,to %ove ! iron along on ! "w is apt to /ret* g>m5ts :]e n requir$1 & also cause wr9kles74 ,keep ! face ( iron smoo? by rubb+ wax ov] ! surface frequ5tly1 !reby remov+ any l9t or dirt t may accumulate f "t to "t4 ,,! ,,press-,,jack4 ,a press-jack su* z ! tailors use1 is made ( two h>dwood bo>ds1 ?irty-five in*es long1 "o in* ?ick1 plan$ bo? sides & edges & cut egg-%ape2 ! wide end be+ eight in*es 9 wid?1 & ! n>r[ or small end1 f\r in*es wide1 "o =m+ ! top & ! o!r ! bottom4 ,betwe5 ! top & bottom are screw$ two blocks ( solid wood1 f\r by f\r in*es1 & six in*es high4 ,! fir/ "o is screw$ to ! top & bottom1 ?ree in*es f ! l>ge end1 & ! second block is screw$ to ! top & bottom1 sev5 in*es f ! l>ge end1 !reby leav+ a space to ! small end1 ( tw5ty-eight in*es1 = conv5i5ce 9 h&l+ ! g>m5ts :ile press+4 ,! top ( ! press-jack is left p]fectly pla9 & smoo?2 ! bottom1 h[ev]1 is padd$ = conv5i5ce = press+ ) t5-ply ( wadd+1 cut ! same %ape ( bo>d or bottom ( press-jack4 ,ov] ?is place a piece ( :ite heavy drill+1 drawn tight ov] ! wadd+ to keep 9 place & tack$ all ar\nd ! edges ) brass head tacks4 ,cut cotton (f ev5ly ar\nd ! edges beyond ! tacks4 ,?is completes ! press-jack & is ready = use4 ,! press-jack z tailors t]m x1 is us$ = ! press+ ( clo!s1 & is also useful to lay clo!s on :ile clean+4 ,,! ,,bru%4 ,a bru% ) a pla9 back & h&le4 7,nev] use a :isk broom to bru% clo!s z x injures ! fibre ( ! clo?47 ,! bru% is us$ to bru% g>m5ts ?or\ghly be=e clean+ & is us$ 9 connection ) ! press+ ( g>m5ts1 to slap ) ! back ! "p press$1 !reby keep+ ! /eam 91 & mak+ ! clo? sweat4 ,! face to bru% ! nap ( clo?1 !reby refre%+ ! g>m5t1 mak+ x look l new4 ,,! ,,sponge ,,clo?4 ,a sponge clo? is made ( heavy unblea*$ cotton1 "o y>d & a half long1 boil$ 9 soap & wat] = "o h\r1 !n r9se 9 clean wat]1 ?us remov+ ! l9t4 ,! sponge clo? %\ld be dipp$ 9 w>m wat]1 & wrung out almo/ dry by h&1 7or "o may use a clo!s wr+] if pref]r$7 !reby keep+ x clean & free f grease & dirt t may /ick to x f "t to "t4 ,! sponge clo? is us$ to lay ov] ! wool5 press clo? t has be5 plac$ ov] t "p ( ! g>m5t to be press$1 also x is ! clo? :i* is to be damp5$ & :5 iron is appli$ causes /eam to be =c$ into ! g>m5t !reby in/ill+ new life into ! clo? z x 74 ,,! ,,"u ,,wool5 ,,press ,,clo?4 ,is made ( a piece ( pla9 light color$ unf9i%$ or f9i%$ wor/$ "o y>d long & eighte5 in*es wide4 ,place ?is "u wool5 press clo? ov] t "p ( g>m5t to be press$1 !n lay ! sponge clo? on top ( ?is1 & apply ! iron4 ,by us+ ^! two press clo?s toge!r1 prev5ts gloss+ ! g>m5t to a great ext5t1 & may be us$ :5 press+ all k9ds ( g>m5ts = m5 & wom54 ,,coat ,,& ,,tr\s] ,,hang]s1 ,,etc4 ,coat & tr\s] hang]s are us$ to place ! sev]al g>m5ts on to reta9 _! %ape aft] clean+ & press+4 ,!y are also v ess5tial 9 ! home to place g>m5ts on t are n 9 use or be+ worn1 x is bett] to place g>m5ts on =ms ?an to hang up by loops t are plac$ on g>m5ts by tailors4 ,o!r necessities us$ 9 ! clean+1 repair+ & press+ ( g>m5ts1 are ! sponge1 tape measure1 scissors1 tailor's *alk1 ne$les1 ?imble1 bodk9 = pull+ ba/+s1 a sew+ ma*9e1 a l>ge mirror1 fa%ion plates1 *airs1 desk & safe1 if "o wi%es4 ,aft]w>d "o may add z _m tools z necessity requires & _! bus9ess p]mits4 ,,lesson ,,ii4 ,,clean+4 ,consi/s ( sev]al =mulas = mak+ ,/&>d clean+ fluids1 & ! be/ me?od ( us+ same1 9 ! clean+ ( all k9ds ( g>m5ts4 ,h[ to prep>e g>m5ts to be clean$4 ,h[ to /eam clean4 ,h[ to dry clean4 ,! secret ( success 9 clean+4 ,to clean velvet & velvete54 ,to remove pa9t1 t>1 grease & ink f g>m5ts4 ,h[ to wa% wool5s4 ,h[ to wa% black wool5 dresses4 ,h[ to clean silk1 sat9 & lace4 ,to remove grease f delicate fabrics4 ,to remove /a9s f l95 & cotton goods4 ,a =mula = mak+ mo? prev5tative4 ,,clean+ ,,fluid4 7,=mula47 #b ounces ,*lor(orm4 #c ounces ,wood ,alcohol4 #b ounces ,sulphur ,e!r4 #b ounces ,_s ( ,w9e4 #aj ounces ,ammonia4 #c ounces ,oil ( ,turp5t9e4 #b ounces ,glyc]9e4 ,place all sev5 *emicals 9 "o bottle4 #c ounces ,borax4 #c ounces ,fr5* ,ca/ile ,soap4 ,,directions ,,to ,,mix3 ,cut ! ,fr5* ,ca/ile ,soap 9 f9e %av+s1 dissolve !m toge!r ) ! ,borax1 9 f\r qu>ts ( boil+ wat]1 cool ?is solution1 be+ c>eful t all ! soap is dissolv$1 !n /ra9 ?r\gh musl9 or ?9 wool5 clo?1 to remove any s$im5t4 ,!n add ! o!r sev5 *emicals1 mix & %ake well4 ,?is w make five qu>ts ,clean+ ,fluid4 ,?is clean+ fluid may be us$ on any g>m5t ) good results1 z x w n injure ! fibre ( ! clo?4 ,always r9se spot good ) clean wat] & sponge1 aft] us+ clean+ fluids4 ,,h[ ,,to ,,prep>e ,a ,,simple ,,clean+ ,,fluid4 7,=mula47 #d ounces ,ammonia4 #d ounces ,bay ,rum4 #a-f ounce ,salt ,pet]4 ,to ?is add "o p9t ( clean wat]1 p\r 9 a small neck bottle1 keep well cork$ to avoid evaporat+4 ,?is prep>ation w remove fre% or h>d pa9t1 t>1 grease1 oil & 9 fact any spots f clo?+1 dress goods1 c>pets1 rugs1 & all wool5 goods )\t injury to ! fabric4 ,! above may be obta9$ at any drug /ore4 ,,h[ ,,to ,,prep>e ,,mo? ,,prev5tative4 7,=mula47 #d ounces ,p[d] ,borax4 #d ounces ,p[d] ,alum4 #d ounces ,p[d] ,camphor4 ,mix all ?ree *emicals toge!r ?or\ghly4 ,?is w make a :ite p[d]4 ,spr9kle freely ar\nd & "u c>pets be=e lay+1 also ov] clo?+ n 9 use4 ,?is p[d] w n leave a /a91 & is easily bru%$ (f4 ,use freely :]ev] mo?s appe>4 ,,h[ ,,to ,,use ,,! ,,clean+ ,,fluids4 ,damp5 a sponge or wool5 clo? 7:ite flannel is ! be/ z !re is no color to come out7 by dipp+ x 9 ! clean+ fluid1 :i* has be5 p\r$ into a bas9 = t purpose & conv5i5ce4 ,rub ! spot to be clean$ ) ! damp5$ sponge1 wool5 clo? 7or flannel7 ) ! ?read or nap ( ! clo? until ! grease & dirt is loos5$1 !n r9se ) clean wat]1 7always r9se sponge1 clo? or flannel 9 clean wat] be=e clean+ ! /a9 a second "t ) pure wat]7 until /a9 entirely disappe>s4 ,always clean g>m5ts be=e repair+ or rel9+4 ,,h[ ,,to ,,prep>e ,,g>m5ts ,,to ,,be ,,clean$4 ,turn all pockets inside out4 ,bru% ?or\ghly & :ip ) cane if necess>y1 be+ c>eful n to break ! buttons on ! g>m5t4 ,see t ! du/ & dirt is ?or\ghly remov$ f ! pockets1 !n return pockets to _! place4 ,?is is a v important "p & "o :i* is v (t5 neglect$ & ov]look$4 ,! g>m5t is !n ready to be clean$4 ,proce$ z above expla9$4 ,if "o application is n suffici5t to remove ! spots1 repeat until spots are ?or\ghly remov$4 ,coats are usually v dirty & greasy ar\nd ! coll> also d[n ! fronts1 great c>e %\ld be tak5 to clean ?or\ghly & r9se (t51 !reby remov+ all /a9s4 ,all coats1 ve/s1 tr\s]s1 ov]coats1 ladies' jackets1 coats1 wai/s1 & all k9ds ( skirts %\ld be clean$ by ?is same me?od4 ,,h[ ,,to ,,/eam ,,clean4 ,to /eam clean coats1 ve/s1 tr\s]s1 ov]coats1 ladies jackets & skirts & all wool g>m5ts3 ,place ea* g>m5t 9 a bas9 ( w>m wat] fir/1 & ) soap & a bru% g ov] ! entire g>m5t ?or\ghly1 includ+ sleeve l9+4 ,second--p\r wat] (f & fill bas9 aga9 ) w>m] wat] ?an at fir/1 & wa% ) /iff bru% & soap z be=e1 us+ ?ree wat]s or until g>m5t is ?or\ghly clean$4 ,remove soap wat] 7d n wr+ g>m5ts b all[ to drip1 or squeeze wat] out7 & r9se 9 hot wat]1 !n w>m1 !n cool]1 & s on until cold1 add+ "o tablespoonful ( co>se salt4 7,dissolve salt 9 cold wat] be=e plac+ 9 bas974 ,?is w prev5t g>m5t f %r9k+4 ,place on hang] to reta9 _! %ape1 all[+ wat] to drip out4 ,/raight5 out wr9kles z mu* z possible :5 dry+1 ?us mak+ ! press+ easi]1 & :5 ?or\ghly dry1 proce$ to press z expla9$4 ,if any spots rema9 aft] ?is process1 remove ) ammonia4 ,= ^? :o p]spire "u ! arms freely1 dress %ields plac$ 9 ! bottom ( ! arm holes ( coats w be ( great b5efit4 ,,h[ ,,to ,,dry ,,clean4 ,use a bas9 l>ge en\gh to hold "o gallon ( gasol5e & ! g>m5t to be clean$4 7,be+ c>eful to keep gasol5e away f ! /ove or a light$ c&le1 lamp1 or gas47 ,place "o gallon ( gasol5e 9 ! bas9 ) ! coat1 & swa% up & d[n until all grease & dirt has be5 loos5$1 !n place on hang]s 9 ! op5 air1 all[+ to dry & gasol5e to evaporate4 ,be=e dipp+ ! coat 9 ! bas91 see t all du/ & dirt is remov$ f ! pockets by turn+ !m inside out & bru%+1 also bru% all seams4 ,use half a gallon = ! ve/1 & "o gallon = ! tr\s]s4 ,! m gasol5e us$1 ! bett] w be ! results4 ,gasol5e may be us$ a second "t on black goods1 aft] filt]+ or settl+1 b nev] on light color$ mat]ials1 ladies' jackets1 coats1 wool wai/s1 & skirts may be clean$ 9 ! same way4 ,gasol5e1 b5z9e1 nap?a1 turp5t9e & ammonia %\ld be ( ! be/ & pure/1 :5 us$ = clean+ purposes4 ,! secret ( success 9 clean+1 is by dipp+ ! g>m5t 9 a l>ge quantity ( ! liquid4 ,n less ?an a gallon ( gasol5e1 b5z9e or nap?a %\ld be us$ = a coat1 jacket or skirt4 ,two gallons w d ! "w bett]4 ,"o %\ld remove all spots if possible be=e dipp+ 9 ! liquid4 ,x is a good idea to surr\nd ea* spot ) a ba/+ ?read z :5 wet1 "s spots d n %[4 ,soak ea* g>m5t 9 ! cle> liquid1 !n soap all spots ?or\ghly1 rub g5tly betwe5 ! h&s until spots disappe>4 ,!n wa% & r9se g>m5t 9 cle> liquid4 ,place on hang]s 9 ! op5 air1 or dry+ room1 all[+ odor to pass away4 ,soap may be us$ = clean+ 9 connection ) gasol5e ) good results4 ,"o may use a little ammonia ) ! gasol5e & soap4 ,! goods %\ld be well %ak51 & pull all folds out /raight ) ! ?reads ( ! goods4 ,velvete51 velvet & corduroy may be clean$ ) gasol5e1 :5 pile or nap is n mu* worn4 ,:5 clean+ velvet1 or any o!r fabric1 ! mo/ important "p is to h all ! du/ & dirt remov$1 by bru%+ ! g>m5t or fabric ?or\ghly4 ,to clean a velvet coll> t is n too greasy1 & ! nap n worn (f3 ,wet a piece ( wool5 clo? or flannel 9 gasol5e & rub lightly1 until ! grease & dirt is loos5$4 ,!n apply m gasol5e ) a clean wool5 clo?1 & remove all grease & dirt4 ,place on hang] 9 ! op5 air to dry & to evaporate be=e /eam+4 ,:5 mu* gasol5e is us$ hang coat s t ! coll> hangs d[n1 to all[ ! gasol5e to drip out & evaporate1 be=e /eam+4 ,always be+ c>eful n to use gasol5e ne> a /ove1 light$ c&le1 lamp or gas4 ,:5 us+ gasol5e = clean+ purposes1 h x 9 a gasol5e or b5z9e safety c1 us$ = t purpose1 :i* may be _h at any h>dw>e /ore4 ,to remove old h>d pa9t or t>1 apply ! clean+ fluid freely & place ! sponge clo? ov] spot & press ) ! iron1 z !re is no?+ t w loos5 pa9t or t> z well z /eam or heat4 ,if "o application is n suffici5t repeat until loos5$1 !n scrape (f2 aft] t use m clean+ fluid to remove any /a9s t may rema91 !n r9se 9 clean wat]4 ,to remove ink /a9s f wool5 mat]ials3 ,apply clean+ fluid1 two or ?ree times1 wa%+ spots ea* "t ) clean wat]1 & sponge until /a9 disappe>s4 ,,h[ ,,to ,,wa% ,,wool5s4 ,place f\r ounces ( soap b>k 9 a gallon ( wat] 9 a kettle on a /ove to boil1 !n add two m gallons ( wat]4 ,?r[ ?is ov] ! goods1 t has be5 plac$ 9 ano!r bas9 = t purpose & rub ) ! h&s4 ,r9se 9 w>m wat]1 & hang up to dry4 ,iron on ! wrong side :5 damp1 until dry1 7?is w remove all wr9kles & make goods look l new74 ,?is is especially good = worn g>m5ts1 t are to be cut & made ov]4 ,wool5s %\ld be squeez$1 & n wrung1 & ! wr9kles /raight5$ out :ile dry+4 ,,h[ ,,to ,,wa% ,,black ,,wool5 ,,dresses4 ,h ! dress ripp$ ap>t1 bru%$1 & all du/ & dirt remov$ f ! seams1 also all ! old /it*es4 ,p\r f\r gallons ( wat] 9 a pail or bas91 add+ f\r ounces ( ammonia4 ,dip ea* piece ( ! g>m5t into ! liquid1 & swa% up & d[n1 & squeeze z dry z possible1 !n hang ov] a pole1 & :5 almo/ dry1 iron f ! wrong side until dry1 ) an iron n too hot4 ,wool5 dresses1 t are mu* soil$1 may be wa%$ 9 soap & wat]1 & r9s$ out be=e dipp+ 9 ! ammonia wat]1 :i* w improve ! color to a great ext5t4 ,any mat]ial1 su* z wor/$1 & wool g>m5ts %\ld be spong$ ) ammonia & wat]4 ,:5 clean+ ) gasol5e1 b5z9e or nap?a1 to remove ! odor1 ! article %\ld be plac$ z ne> a /eam radiator z possible1 or 9 a dry+ room heat$ by /eam or o!rwise1 ?is removes ! odor1 ! /eam heat dries out :atev] ( ! fluid may h rema9$ 9 ! mat]ial1 & does s )\t ! dang] ( explosion :i* makes x impossible to dry a g>m5t clean$ ) ! above ne> a light$ /ove1 lamp1 c&le or gas4 ,,h[ ,,to ,,wa% ,,*amois ,,ve/s4 ,wa% ) :ite soap & w>m wat]1 mak+ a good la!r & rubb+ well betwe5 ! h&s4 ,lay flat on a table1 & rub ) a dry1 clean clo?2 r9se2 !n roll 9 ano!r clo? & wr+ z dry z possible4 ,unroll & /ret* well2 hang up1 & :5 ne>ly dry press ) a w>m iron1 be+ c>eful n to h ! iron too hot or x w spoil ! *amois4 ,,h[ ,,to ,,clean ,,silk4 ,use hot gasol5e1 heat$ 9 a d\ble boil] 7nev] put gasol5e on a /ove7 place ! gasol5e 9 ! d\ble boil]1 aft] x has be5 remov$ f ! /ove & :ile ! wat] is /ill boil+1 place ! silk to be clean$ 9 ! boil]1 & swa% up & d[n until x is ?or\ghly clean$1 !n remove & place 9 ! op5 air to dry & evaporate4 ,,to ,,clean ,,black ,,silk4 ,bru% & wipe ) flannel clo?1 lay on a table ) ! side to be worn up2 !n sponge ) hot c(fee 7/ra9 c(fee ?r\gh musl9 be=e us+74 ,:5 damp1 lay clo? on & iron until ?or\ghly dry4 ,,to ,,remove ,,grease ,,f ,,silk4 ,use a lump ( magnesia 7moi/5$71 rub on ! spot & all[ to dry2 !n bru% p[d] (f4 ,repeat if necess>y4 ,silks & sat9s %\ld be spong$ ) ammonia & wat]4 ,x is n necess>y to soak ribbon1 unless !y are v dirty4 ,only black mat]ial %\ld be clean$ ) /rong ammonia z a diff]5ce 9 ! dye /uffs may cause ! mat]ial to turn r$1 :]ev] ! ammonia t\*es x4 ,to clean a color$ silk dress1 mix toge!r f\r ounces ( soap1 six ounces ( honey1 & a p9t & a qu>t] ( g91 rub 9 well ) small bru%1 r9se ea* piece at once 9 cold wat] ?or\ghly1 dra9 & iron :ile wet4 ,?is is especially good = black1 also black & :ite silks4 ,silks may be /iff5$ by add+ two or ?ree lumps ( sug>1 or half a teaspoonful ( gum ,arabic to ! wat]4 ,place ov] a r\nd pole & :ile damp place a piece ( musl9 ov] ! silk & iron until dry4 ,,to ,,clean ,,black ,,lace4 ,to a cup ( /rong tea1 add "o-half teaspoonful ( gum ,arabic4 ,dip ! lace into ! liquid1 & squeeze x dry1 two or ?ree times 7d n wr+74 ,roll 9 a clo? & :5 almo/ dry1 /raight5 out all ! scallops c>efully by h&1 be+ c>eful to h x ( univ]sal wid?1 & place on a s(t clo? or padd$ bo>d & lay a piece ( musl9 ov] x1 !n iron until dry4 ,?is is suitable = ord9>y lace4 ,b real lace %\ld be p9n$ or tack$ to a bo>d1 be+ c>eful to draw out all loops ( ! edge1 & n drag ! lace out ( %ape4 ,all /a9s & spots %\ld be remov$ z soon z possible4 ,ink /a9s may be tak5 out ( clo?+ by dipp+ ! spot 9 milk1 & squeez+ ! black5$ milk into a bas91 dipp+ 9 cle> milk aga94 ,repeat ?is process until ! ink /a9 has entirely disappe>$2 !n wa% ! clo? 9 w>m wat]1 to remove ! fat 9 ! milk4 ,"s inks are v difficult to remove b ) a little pati5ce1 "o ( ! processes w remove any ink /a94 ,to remove grease spots f delicate fabrics1 requires great c>e4 ,:5 ! color & fabric w n be injur$1 use ! clean+ fluid4 ,o!rwise use ,fr5* *alk or magnesia p[d]4 ,place ^u ! spots1 all[ to rema9 = a %ort "t4 ,?is w (t5 absorb ! grease4 ,if "o application is n suffici5t1 bru% (f & apply aga9 until ! spot disappe>s4 ,:5 wat] may be us$ on ! clo?1 ! *alk may be made into a pa/e & spread on ! spot & left until dry !n bru% (f4 ,:5 color ( a piece ( goods has be5 accid5tally or o!rwise de/roy$ by acid4 ,apply ammonia to neutralize ! same aft] :i* an application ( *lor(orm w 9 almo/ e case re/ore ! spot to its orig9al color4 ,,to ,,remove ,,/a9s ,,f ,,cotton ,,& ,,l95 ,,goods4 ,to remove /a9s f l95 & cotton1 wet spots ) luke w>m wat]1 !n squeeze ! juice ( a lemon ov] ! /a91 spr9kle ) salt1 !n place 9 ! sun to ha/5 blea*+4 ,if "o application is n suffici5t to remove ! /a9s1 repeat until ?or\ghly clean$4 ,to remove scor* f cotton1 place 9 ! hot sun until scor* disappe>s4 ,to remove ma*9e oil f :ite l951 cotton1 or light goods4 ,rub ) pure :ite l>d1 !n wa% ) w>m wat] & soap4 ,to remove iron ru/4--,dip 9 m$ium /rong solution ( oxalic acid1 !n hold ov] ! sp\t ( a boil+ tea kettle4 ,r9se ! spot 9 two or ?ree wat]s1 !n wa% 9 ! usual way4 ,to remove ,fruit & ,b]ry ,/a9s4--,place spot ov] a b[l & p\r boil+ wat] ?r\gh ! clo? until /a9 disappe>s4 ,to remove ,mildew4--,rub soap on ! damag$ article !n salt & />* on t2 rub well 9 & place 9 ! sun until spots entirely disappe>4 ,fruit1 ink1 blood & o!r /a9s %\ld be remov$ be=e ! clo!s are wet 9 ! laundry4 ,tea1 c(fee1 w9e & mo/ fruit /a9s1 c be tak5 out ) cle> boil+ wat]1 by /ret*+ ! /a9$ portions ov] a b[l & p\r+ hot wat] ?r\gh4 ,if !y d n come out1 use a solution ( borax1 ammonia & *loride ( lime1 or burn "s sulphur & hold ! /a9s ov] ! fumes4 ,fre% ink /a9s may be remov$ by an application ( damp5$ salt1 all[ to rema9 = sev]al h\rs1 or soak 9 w>m milk or v9eg> & wat]4 ,lemon juice & salt plac$ on ! spots w (t5 suffice4 ,grass /a9s are mo/ difficult to remove4 ,dip ! spots 9 molasses2 let x rema9 until ?or\ghly saturat$1 !n wa% out 9 clean wat]4 ,repeat if necess>y4 ,mud ,/a9s--,may be remov$ by soak+ spots 9 a solution ( oxalic acid4 ,r9se 9 sev]al wat]s2 !n 9 ammonia & wat] la/4 ,cocoa /a9s may be remov$ by spr9kl+ borax ov] ! spot4 ,!n soak 9 cold wat]1 & p\r on boil+ wat]4 ,ob/9ate blood /a9s--,%\ld be saturat$ 9 k]os5e1 !n rubb$ ) soap & wa%$ 9 luke w>m wat]4 ,to prev5t musl9 f fad+--,use a weak solution ( sug> ( lead4 ,,lesson ,,iii4 ,,repair+4 ,9 ?is lesson is expla9$ h[ to repair & rel9e coats1 ve/s1 tr\s]s1 ov]coats1 ,tux$os1 ,dress ,coats1 ,ve/s1 ,pr9ce ,alb]ts1 also ,ladies' ,jackets & ,coats4 ,h[ to put new ,silk fac+s on coats4 ,h[ to repair sleeves t are worn out ar\nd ! bottom4 ,h[ to put velvet coll>s on coats4 ,! use ( ba/+ ?read4 ,h[ to prev5t tr\s]s bagg+ at ! knee4 ,h[ to prep>e button holes = work+4 ,h[ to make button holes4 ,d>n+ a ?ree-corn]$ te>4 ,hems & fell+ same4 ,back /it*+4 ,,in/ructions ,,9 ,,repair+4 ,to rel9e all k9ds ( coats & jackets = m5 & wom54 ,:5 new l9+ is requir$ 9 coats1 rip out ! old l9+1 />t+ to rip ! sleeve l9+1 fir/ ar\nd top or sleeve head1 !n at ! bottom or cuff4 ,n[ remove ! :ole l9+ & rip ap>t & iron out smoo? & use z a patt]n = ! new1 cutt+ new l9+ out exactly same size z ! patt]n1 d[n ! seams1 b = conv5i5ce 9 work+1 all[ two seams long] at ! bottom & two seams long] at ! top4 ,place "o top & "o bottom sleeve l9+ toge!r1 ,ba/e seams1 hav+ ! two "r sides ( l9+ toge!r1 & seam on ma*9e1 7or "o may sew ! seams on ! ma*9e )\t ba/+1 ?is may be done ) a little practice71 press seams op5 on small end ( press-jack1 ba/e top ( sleeve l9+ 92 all ar\nd1 "o-qu>t] ( an in*1 n[ turn "r sleeve inside out & ba/e "r sleeve l9+ 9 by fa/5+ ! back seam ( ! sleeve l9+ to t ( ! back sleeve seam ( coat1 ba/e ) long loose /it*es1 />t ba/+ two in*es bel[ top ( sleeve1 to two in*es )9 ! bottom1 be+ c>eful n to get l9+ 9 too %ort 7take "o qu>t] in* seam :5 sew+ on ma*9e71 z ?is w cause sleeve to draw up1 & hang 9 wr9kles1 n[ fa/5 ! front arm seams same z back1 s t ea* seam w come directly on top ( ! sleeve seam4 ,turn sleeve "r side out1 & m>k ) *alk on l9+ ( coat at ea* sleeve seam & ba/e sleeve seams at top ( sleeve l9+ to correspond ) ! sleeve seams ( g>m5t1 & ba/e l9+ all ar\nd until "o becomes famili> ) ! "w4 ,n[ see t ! l9+ is suffici5tly long2 cut l9+ (f ev5 ) ! bottom ( ! cuff1 & ba/e sleeve l9+ up two in*es f ! bottom4 ,!n ) ne$le & silk fell ar\nd bo? sleeves1 top & bottom4 ,turn sleeve "r side out & remove ba/+ /it*es4 ,rip out ! body l9+1 />t+ at ! "r fac+1 & rip d[n & ar\nd ! pocket to "o in* above & "o in* bel[ ! pocket across bottom1 up side seam1 & across %\ld]4 ,!n remove l9+1 & iron out smoo?1 to use z a patt]n1 = new l9+ z be=e1 leav+ ! left side ( ! l9+ 9 z a guide to ! beg9n] z to h[ ! l9+ %\ld be plac$4 ,!n cut ! new l9+ = ! "r side "o half in* l>g] all ar\nd ?an ! patt]n = all[ance 9 %r9k+1 & also = conv5i5ce :ile work+4 ,!n ba/e l9+ 9 "r side1 be+ c>eful n to put l9+ 9 too tight4 ,r h x too long1 b n s long t x hangs bel[ ! bottom ( g>m5t4 ,coats w n hang well ) tight or %ort l9+4 ,turn edge ( l9+ 9 d[n front1 & across bottom ) ba/+1 & fa/5 l9+ to side seam ( =ep>t ) long loose ba/+ /it*es4 ,!n rip l9+ out ( left side & iron out smoo?ly = a patt]n1 cut & ba/e 9 new l9+ on left side ! same z expla9$ = ! "r4 ,n[ cut ! back l9+ d\ble & seam d[n back c5tre seam1 ba/+ "o in* plait = ease1 !n press to "o side1 & ba/e 9 back1 & turn all edges 91 d[n side seams1 across bottom & %\ld]s1 & back ( neck4 ,n[ fa/5 l9+ all ar\nd arm hole to ! seam1 !reby hold+ l9+ 9 place1 s z n to all[ x to come loose4 ,cut l9+ (f ev5 ) seam all ar\nd arm hole1 !n ba/e sleeve l9+ ar\nd4 ,cut l9+ to back ( pocket1 & at back end1 cut l9+ 9 a trifle to all[ work+1 & = turn+ 9 ar\nd ! pocket1 & fell l9+ 9 all ar\nd ! pocket m\?1 & proce$ to fell ! l9+1 do+ ! same ) ! left side4 ,n[ f9i% fell+ ! entire coat4 ,remove ba/+ /it*es1 & f9i% g>m5t 9 ! usual way4 ,ladies' jackets & coats are rel9$ 9 ! same way1 also all k9ds ( m5's coats & ov]coats includ$4 ,:5 new silk fac+s are requir$ = coats1 remove ! old fac+1 & use x z a patt]n = ! new1 & :5 cutt+ ! new fac+1 all[ ?ree qu>t]s ( an in* all ar\nd = conv5i5ce1 :ile work+4 ,ba/e new silk fac+ on v neat1 & take "t to d good "w4 ,:5 ba/+ is complet$1 fell all ar\nd ) f9e silk1 be+ c>eful n to draw ! /it*es tight1 nor to contract ! edge4 ,try to h ! new silk fac+ put on s t x w look bett] ?an ! old "o did :5 new4 ,?is w br+ y cu/om]s4 ,! price to *>ge = su* "w is by ! h\r & = mat]ial us$4 ,,to ,,rel9e ,,ve/s4 ,rip old l9+ & back out ( "r side1 & iron out smoo? = a patt]n4 ,n[ cut =ep>t l9+ "o half in* l>g] all ar\nd & ba/e 9 =ep>t l9+1 obs]v+ h[ ! left is put 94 ,ba/e edges ( l9+ 91 d[n fac+1 across bottom & ar\nd arm hole1 7:5 "o becomes famili> ! "r sides ( l9+ may be plac$ to t ( ! =ep>ts & sew$ ar\nd ! armholes by ma*9e1 !reby sav+ ! fell+ by h&74 ,n[ rip left inside l9+ out & replace x ) new l9+1 same z ! "r4 ,fell all ar\nd1 !n iron ! back l9+ out smoo? = a patt]n1 cutt+ x exactly ! same size z ! old "o1 & m>k ) *alk1 :]e seam 0 sewn be=e4 ,cut inside l9+ ! same size1 & seam back seams on ! ma*9e1 & press op5 7or "o may /it* to "o side71 place "r sides toge!r to sew2 smoo? ) iron1 & ba/e ! "r =ep>t1 side seam to t ( ! back l9+1 also to ! %\ld]4 ,ba/e left side ! same way4 ,n[ ba/e ! inside l9+ to inside ( ve/4 ,?is w leave an op5+ at ! top ( neck & bottom4 ,n[ ba/e1 plac+ bo? back seams toge!r1 & ba/e ea* way to ! side seams4 ,?is w leave an op5+1 n[ only at ! neck1 !reby =m+ a pocket1 or bag = ! ve/1 z x 74 ,sew ) ma*9e1 9 same seam z at fir/1 d[n side seam1 across %\ld]1 & bottom1 & ar\nd arm holes1 not* l9+ ar\nd back arm hole4 ,remove ba/+1 & turn ve/ "r side out at ! neck4 ,ba/e l9+ ev5 ar\nd bottom & arm hole4 ,n[ ba/e l9+ across back ( neck1 inside & out1 !n fell entire l9+4 ,:5 ba/+ ! %\ld]s ( ve/1 h ! back l9+ "o qu>t] ( an in* full 9 ! holl[ ( front ( %\ld]1 to all[ = /ret*+1 & to =m a concave4 ,%\ld ve/s require to be made l>g]1 :5 "o has ! l9+ out1 all "o has to d1 is to m>k ) *alk or ?read1 ! am\nt to be made l>g]1 add+ am\nt f ! old seam on back1 & ba/e =ep>t side seams to ! m>k to be made l>g]4 ,if new pockets are requir$1 & "o is n famili> ) ! "w1 remove ! pocket v c>efully1 obs]v+ e detail z to h[ x %\ld be put toge!r4 ,iron out smoo? & cut new pocket1 seam ar\nd1 all b m\?1 & place inside ( pocket1 & turn edges 9 all ar\nd top or m\? ( pocket1 & fell ) silk same color z pocket 7nev] remove welt f pocket :5 only new pockets are requir$74 ,%\ld ! buttonholes ne$ repair+1 repair !m4 ,also see t ! buttons are sew$ on firm4 ,d>n all holes1 & clean & all[ to dry be=e new l9+ is plac$4 ,,new ,,wai/ ,,b& ,,l9+ ,,9 ,,tr\s]s4 ,remove old "o1 & iron out smoo? & use = patt]n4 ,cut new "o out & ba/e 9 & fell ar\nd tops & d[n sides1 & fa/5 at pockets to hold 9 place4 ,if new buttons are requir$1 sew !m on be=e new l9+ is plac$1 s z n to sew ?r\gh ! l9+4 ,repair tr\s]s :]e ne$$4 ,to repair sleeves t are worn out ar\nd ! bottom run a ba/+ ?read ar\nd bo? sleeves five in*es f ! bottom ( cuff1 to hold l9+ 9 place1 !n rip sleeve l9+ ar\nd ! bottom1 unfa/5 ! turn up ( sleeve f ! wigan1 7d>n sleeve edge if necess>y :5 x is worn ?r\gh71 n[ ba/e up firmly "o eigh? ( an in*1 or z mu* m z ! sleeve w all[ & /ill be ( suffici5t l5g?1 7run ba/+ "o-qu>t] in* f bottom71 fa/5 ! turn up back to ! wigan ) ba/+ 7?is ba/+ is left 972 n[ let sleeve l9+ come d[n1 & if x is long] ?an to ! end ( cuff2 cut (f :at comes bel[4 ,!n turn sleeve l9+ 9 on ! turn up two in*es f ! bottom ( cuff ) ba/+ /it*es1 & fell l9+ ) silk same color z ! clo? or l9+4 ,f9i% bo? sleeves ! same4 ,remove ba/+1 turn sleeves "r side out2 & press all ar\nd cuff z expla9$4 ,:5 fell+ d n take long /it*es1 %ort ones look neat] & are /rong] & "w w h a bett] appe>ance :5 f9i%$4 ,%\ld ! sleeve be f9i%$ ) /it*+ ar\nd ! cuff1 f9i% ! same :5 repair+4 ,sew buttons on1 ?is completes ! repair+ ( sleeves at ! bottom4 ,,h[ ,,to ,,put ,,velvet ,,coll>s ,,on ,,coats4 ,remove old "o1 pick out old /it*es 9 coat coll> 7! old /it*es 9 velvet d n matt]71 place coat 9 a conv5i5t mann] on ! press-jack & press coll> & lapels into %ape4 ,cut new velvet coll> "o-eigh? in* l>g] on ea* side ?an ! patt]n1 or l>g] if necess>y1 & /eam ov] an iron z expla9$4 ,/ret* ! edges a trifle on ea* side ( velvet1 be+ c>eful n to leave f+] or ?umb m>ks1 & :5 cool1 ba/e on coat1 7silk ?read %\ld be us$ :5 ba/+ velvet7 9 coll> crease ?r\gh velvet to hold 9 place4 ,run ano!r ba/+ bel[ crease & 9 ! /& ( coll>1 & ano!r r[ ( ba/+ on leaf ( coll> close to ! crease4 ,run ano!r ba/+ ne> ! outside edge ( coll> leaf1 & =m a cu%ion at ea* end to all[ ample room = ends to curl "u 7in/ead ( up74 ,see t ! velvet is n ba/$ on too tight or too %ort4 ,n[ turn velvet 9 ov] old seam or /it*es on ! inside ( coat coll>1 f end to end2 & ba/e velvet ov] edge & all ar\nd leaf4 ,n[ cut velvet (f ev5 along ! leaf1 !n fell inside ( velvet to coat neck ) silk to mat*2 & h]r+bone velvet to leaf all ar\nd f end to end4 ,make a loop or hang] out ( a /raight piece ( l9+ "o-half in* wide1 & turn all edges 9 & fold aga9 & fell toge!r2 n[ sew to ! coat z be=e1 turn+ bo? edges ( loop 91 & tack+ same ?r\gh /& ( coll>4 ,remove all ba/+ by cutt+ ea* /it* & pull+ out f ! "r side1 & ) ! nap ( ! velvet4 ,,to ,,/eam ,,coll>4 ,place iron on its side1 cov] ) a piece ( pap]1 ov] ?is lay a wet sponge clo?2 !n hold coat coll> v close to /eam+ clo? 7:5 "o is famili> ) ! "w !y may all[ ! coll> to re/ on ! /eam+ clo? = a m9ute71 & move back & =?1 all[+ /eam to come ?r\gh ! velvet4 ,!n remove ! coll> & %ape by h&1 z :5 worn4 ,bru% ! nap g5tly to fre%5 :ile /eam+1 b ) a v s(t bru%4 ,place on coat hang]1 & all[ to dry be=e we>+ or deliv]+4 ,good sew+1 good press+1 well f9i%$ ends & corn]s1 lightness ( t\* :i* holds ! "w )\t app>5tly t\*+ x1 w give to ! f9i%$ g>m5t a fre% look4 ,all ^! are important consid]ations4 ,:5 d>n+1 great c>e mu/ be tak5 to h ! "w f9i%$ up neatly1 z d>n+ & m5d+ is an art1 & l ev]y?+ else1 requires pati5ce & practice4 ,ba/+ is only us$ 9 ! prep>ation ( "w1 to hold /uff & l9+1 or any two or m p>ts ( ! "w toge!r1 :ile x is be+ /it*$1 z none ( ! ba/+ is left 9 ! f9i%$ g>m5t4 ,x is also us$ z a guide = sew+ & m>k+ on light color$ goods z x w n leave a m>k z w\ld color$ *alk4 ,= ord9>y "w1 ba/+ /it*es %\ld be cut e few in*es & drawn out4 ,x is impossible to prev5t tr\s]s bagg+ at ! knee1 b "h is an idea t w help mat]ially to keep knees 9 %ape4 ,fa/5 a piece ( silk to ! =ep>t ( tr\s]s on ! inside to ! seams & across bottom & top sev5 in*es above & t5 in*es bel[ ! knee1 be+ c>eful n to all[ /it*es to %[ ?r\gh on "r side4 ,buttonholes may be made easy to "w by spac+ (f ! numb] requir$1 ) p9s or ?read m>ks4 ,m>k l5g? ( hole1 & /it* on a ma*9e ! desir$ l5g?1 !n turn at "r angles & take two /it*es1 !n turn back & /it* o!r side4 ,turn at "r angles & take two m /it*es1 !reby tack+ bo? ends4 ,all buttonholes may be /it*$ 9 "o g>m5t )\t remov+ f ! ma*9e4 ,?is me?od takes ! place ( s]g+ or ov]ca/+ & is mu* bett] = ?9 ravelly goods4 ,,mak+ ,,buttonholes4 ,buttonholes %\ld be ov]ca/$ or s]g$ z soon z cut1 ) f9e ?read or silk1 ! /it*es %\ld be light1 loose & ev51 ?is is done ) a slant+ /it*4 ,mak+ buttonholes3 ,ins]t ! ne$le on ! edge ( ! mat]ial & :5 half way ?r\gh1 take ! two ?reads at ! eye ( ! ne$le br+ !m t[>ds y at ! "r & "u ! po9t ( ! ne$le1 draw+ ! ?read f y1 mak+ ! purl or loop /it* come directly on ! edge ( ! buttonhole4 ,/it*es %\ld lay close toge!r j f> en\gh ap>t = ! purl or loop /it* to =m1 always h ea* /it* ( ! univ]sal l5g? s ! /it*es w look /raight on ea* side ( ! buttonhole1 ! /it*es may be plac$ clos] toge!r at ! end z mo/ we> comes !re4 ,,d>n+ ,a ,,?ree ,,corn]$ ,,te>4 ,a ?ree corn]$ te> may be d>n$ 9 two ways4 ,comm5ce by d>n+ diagonally ?r\gh ! c5t]1 d>n+ back & =? t[>ds ! end ( ! te> until "o-half has be5 f9i%$2 !n beg9 at ! c5t] & "w 9 ! opposite direction4 ,at ! corn]1 ! /it*es %\ld =m ! %ape ( a fan4 ,ano!r me?od :i* is /rong]1 is done by d>n+ a squ>e 9 ! angle1 fir/ ) ! w>p ?reads1 !n ) ! wo( ?reads1 & f9i%+ ea* end across ! te>4 ,,hems ,,& ,,! ,,fell+ ,,( ,,same4 ,a hem is a fold ( goods d\bl$ twice to prev5t a raw edge4 ,! fold %\ld be turn$ ev5 & /raight ) ! ?read ( ! mat]ial1 on ?is dep5ds ! neatness ( "o's "w4 ,! hem %\ld always be turn$ 9 t[>d ! work] & ba/$ firmly n too ne> ! edge1 leav+ "o-eigh? in* space = work+4 ,fell+--:5 fell+ or hemm+1 ! ne$le %\ld take up only ! edge to be hemm$ or fell$ d[n & j en\gh to hold on ! clo? or l9+4 ,:5 fell+ or hemm+ take small /it*es close toge!r1 ev51 & d n draw ?read or silk too tight z to cause ! edge to h ! appe>ance ( ! tee? ( a saw4 ,,back ,,/it*+4 ,! back /it* is made by plac+ ! ne$le back 9 ! la/ /it*1 br++ x out once ! l5g? ( ! la/ /it*1 !n plac+ ! ne$le back into la/ /it* & s on1 be+ c>eful n to draw ! ?read too tight z to h a draw+ appe>ance1 make ! /it*es foll[ ea* o!r )\t leav+ a space betwe54 ,back /it*+ is us$ 9 places :]e mu* /ra9 is on ! seam4 ,bias hems1 su* z sleeve head l9+1 etc4 ,all bias hems & curv$ edges1 %\ld h ! folds ba/$ 94 ,,lesson ,,iv4 ,,alt]ations4 ,h[ to %ort5 & l5g!n coat sleeves4 ,h[ to raise & l[] coll>s4 ,h[ to alt] 7or *ange7 a coat t is too l>ge ar\nd ! neck & coll>4 ,h[ to make ! alt]ation :5 a coat is too l>ge ov] ! *e/4 ,h[ to *ange a ve/ t is too l>ge ar\nd4 ,h[ to make a ve/ l>g] ar\nd4 ,h[ to *ange tr\s]s t are too long4 ,h[ to l5g!n tr\s]s4 ,h[ to make tr\s]s small] ar\nd ! wai/4 ,h[ to make tr\s]s l>g] ar\nd ! wai/1 :e!r !re is an outlet or n4 ,h[ to make button cords = sew+ on buttons4 ,an easy way to hang a skirt4 ,h[ to iron ov] buttons )\t break+4 ,also h[ to iron embroid]y4 ,,h[ ,,to ,,make ,,alt]ations ,,on ,,g>m5ts4 ,:5 sleeves are to be %ort5$ or l5g!n$1 h cu/om] try coat on1 & m>k ) *alk1 ! l5g? desir$4 ,!n remove coat & run a ba/+ ( cotton ar\nd bo? sleeves1 five in*es above cuff1 to hold l9+ 9 place1 :ile do+ ! "w4 ,!n ) a knife or scissors1 rip l9+ ar\nd bo? cuffs4 ,unfa/5 turn up f wigan4 ,?is w all[ turn up to fall d[n4 ,n[ m>k ) *alk1 ar\nd bo? sleeves1 ! correct l5g?4 ,turn up & ba/e solid1 & fa/5 turn up1 to wigan1 same z be=e4 ,n[ all[ l9+ to fall d[n1 & cut (f ev5 all ar\nd ! end ( ! cuff4 ,ba/e l9+ two in*es f ! edge ( cuff1 & fell ) silk same color z ! clo? or l9+4 ,^! in/ructions are = %ort5+ sleeves4 ,:5 sleeves are to be l5g!n$1 proce$ z be=e1 b ) ?is diff]5ce1--%\ld ! l9+1 & turn up ( cuff n meet1 x w be necess>y to piece ! l9+ or sew h& fac+s to ! bottom ( sleeve1 same z ! clo? 9 g>m5t1 or z ne> z possible4 ,!n fell sleeve l9+ to fac+4 ,:5 sleeves are to be l5g!n$1 ba/e a piece ( wigan to t :i* is n[ 9 place1 ! am\nt to be l5g!n$1 & fa/5 turn up to ! wigan1 & turn sleeve l9+ 9 two in*es f ! end ( cuff4 ,fell sleeve l9+ to turn up z be=e4 ,sleeves may be l5g!n$ all ( ! turn up1 by sew+ a piece ( clo? to ! sleeve1 same z ! g>m5t1 same size ar\nd1 & sewn 9 a seam on ! ma*9e4 ,ba/e & turn edges out ev51 & press firm1 /it* ar\nd ) ma*9e1 !reby mak+ x firm & solid4 ,/it* edge ( sleeve to mat* edge ( coat4 ,fa/5 ends ( silk ?read by ?read+ !m to a ne$le & tak+ a /it* or two1 !n cut (f4 ,sew buttons on z requir$4 ,?is completes ! l5g!n+ ( sleeves4 ,%\ld coat coll> be too high1 run a r[ ( ba/+ cotton1 two in*es bel[ ! coll> seam2 m>k ) *alk ! am\nt to be l[]$1 !n rip ) knife or scissors1 inside & out f crease to crease4 ,n[ ba/e "u coll> to neck ( coat fir/1 & fa/5 inside ( coat to ! /& ( coll>4 ,n[ ba/e ! outside or top coll> on ! inside to ! coat 9 keep+ ) ! am\nt l[]$ & fell inside & outside ( coll>4 ,sew loop on back ( coat coll> inside1 & remove ba/+4 ,place coat coll> on press-jack 9 a conv5i5t mann] & press 9 same crease z :5 worn4 ,place on a coat hang]1 to reta9 its prop] %ape & to dry be=e we>+4 7,:5 ba/+ "u coll> to coat neck1 />t ba/+ f c5t] back seam1 =w>d to ea* side47 ,:5 coat coll> is to be rais$1 run a r[ ( ba/+ cotton two in*es bel[ ! coll> seam1 f end to end4 ,rip "u coll> & unfa/5 coat f /& ( coll> inside & rip inside coll> f crease to crease4 ,m>k ) *alk ! am\nt to be rais$1 & />t ba/+ f ! c5t] back seam1 =w>d to ea* side2 !n fa/5 coat to ! /& ( coll>1 & ba/e inside or top coll> to ! inside ( coat ! am\nt rais$ on ! outside4 ,fa/5 loop to /& ( coll> inside1 remove ba/+s & place coat coll> on press-jack 9 a conv5i5t way1 press z be=e & hang to dry be=e we>+4 ,if h[ev]1 ! coat coll> is to be rais$ & "o f9ds t by rais+1 t ! coll> w be too long1 ! coll> may be cut 9 ! c5t] & seam$ or tak5 (f at "o end 7if only rais$ on "o side7 or bo? z ! case may be2 if rais$ all ar\nd1 ! coll> mu/ be %ort5$ at bo? ends4 ,?is is a v p>ticul> piece ( "w1 & %\ld n be attempt$ unless ! g>m5t is old1 & "o wants to practice on x2 ?is may be _h by alt]+ an old g>m5t = practice1 z ) practice1 mo/ any?+ may be accompli%$4 7,:5 "o has _h consid]able exp]i5ce 9 ?is l9e1 !n x may be done )\t tak+ x to a tailor2 until !n1 x w be be/ to let ! exp]i5c$ tailor d ! "w on a good coat47 ,:5 a coat is too l>ge ar\nd ! neck & coll>1 & falls away at ! bottom :5 unbutton$1 & bulges at ! op5+ :5 button$1 is an indication t ! g>m5t is n balanc$ prop]ly4 ,?is may be *ang$ to fit p]fectly 9 ! foll[+ mann]3 ,run a ba/+ ?ree in*es f ea* side ( ! %\ld] seams & to front ( coat to coll> end4 ,rip coll> (f f crease to crease1 rip %\ld] seams f neck to )9 two in*es ( ! sleeve seam1 & m>k ) *alk1 ! am\nt to be tak5 9 7z ! %\ld] /rap is too long f neck to bottom ( arm hole & mu/ be %ort5$ s t ! coat w hang squ>ely & well balanc$ :5 unbutton$ z well z :5 button$71 m>k f neck gradually to no?+ at ! end ( ! two in*es1 f ! %\ld] or sleeve head2 ?is am\nt to be tak5 (f ! =ep>t 9 all cases1 ba/e back to %\ld] seam & press op51 unless a trifle may be tak5 (f ! c5t] back seam at top1 :i* is a good idea1 s t ! coll> w fall m closely to ! neck4 ,ba/e %\ld] & l9+ toge!r4 ,n[ ba/e coll> on1 />t+ at ! c5t] back seam1 & ba/e =w>d ea* way1 & if f\nd too long1 %ort5 z expla9$ above2 fell %\ld]s & coll>4 ,f9i% coll> neatly & press %\ld] & coll>4 ,:5 "o side is to be alt]$ 7?is "o may see :5 cu/om] has coat on & button$1 & "o side /&s away f ! neck71 9 t case1 only *ange "o side4 ,:5 a coat is too l>ge ov] ! *e/1 & by sett+ ! buttons back f ! edge two & "o-half in*es 7:i* is only to be done 9 extreme cases7 w n h ! desir$ effect2 run a r[ ( ba/+ cotton ar\nd arm hole two in*es f ! sleeve seam1 across %\ld] to ! front end ( coll> & two in*es f ! %\ld] seam4 ,rip sleeves & %\ld]s out & coll> (f f end to end1 press seam out smoo?1 & m>k ) *alk ! am\nt %\ld] is to be advanc$1 say f "o-qu>t] to ?ree-qu>t]s ( an in*1 z ! case may be 7?is may be easily det]m9$ :5 ! coat is on ! cu/om]1 notice ! am\nt ( lap & !n judge ! am\nt71 ba/e back %\ld] to =ep>t ( coat hav+ ! top ( back ev5 ) ! *alk m>k2 seam & press op51 ba/e %\ld] & l9+ toge!r1 n[ ba/e coll> on1 !n ba/e sleeve 91 & seam & press op5 seam z be=e & fix up sleeve head1 & cut (f end ( %\ld] am\nt %\ld] 0 advanc$ at %\ld] po9t4 ,?is w take surplus goods away f ! front & all[ goods to g back2 f9i% coll>1 %\ld]s & sleeves & press4 ,d\ble brea/$ coats are diff]5t1 ! buttons may be set f ! edge1 accord+ to /yle & fa%ion4 ,:5 a coat is too l>ge 9 ! back1 take "p out 9 ! side seams & "p out 9 ! c5t] back seam2 ! be/ way to det]m9e ! am\nt to be tak5 out1 is to p9 ea* seam a trifle :5 cu/om] has coat on1 !n "o w get ! prop] effect ( ! alt]ation4 ,:5 a ve/ is too l>ge ar\nd1 x may be p9n$ on ! cu/om]1 d[n ! side seams & c5t] back ! desir$ am\nt to be tak5 out2 ?is alt]ation may be done 9 ! foll[+ mann]3 ,rip ve/ across back ( neck1 rip ea* side seam1 m>k ) *alk ! am\nt to be tak5 9 on ea* side seam & c5t] back seams4 ,ba/e =ep>t to t ( ! back at side seams & ba/e c5t] back seam toge!r1 l9+ & outside4 ,seam on ma*9e1 remove ! ba/+1 turn ve/ "r side out & fell across back ( neck4 ,press side seams1 back & ar\nd neck2 place on hang] to reta9 %ape4 ,:5 ve/ is to be made l>g]1 proce$ z foll[s3 ,rip side seams & across ! back ( neck1 press out side seams ( back1 & remove /it*es1 & if !re is an outlet1 m>k ) *alk ! am\nt to be let out on ea* side1 & ba/e z be=e & f9i% ! same4 ,if !re is no outlet1 "o mu/ sew a piece ( l9+ to ! outside & inside l9+2 press op5 ! seams or /it* to "o side & press4 ,!n m>k ) *alk ! am\nt to be let out & proce$ z expla9$ & f9i%4 ,:5 tr\s]s are too long1 !y may be %ort5$ 9 ! foll[+ mann]3 ,m>k ) *alk 7us+ ! tape l9e = measur+ l5g?7 ! desir$ l5g?1 loos5 ! bottoms1 7if fell$1 rip ) knife or scissors1 be+ c>eful n to cut ! clo?71 if !re is rubb] 9 ! bottoms1 wet a piece ( clo? ) gasol5e1 & rub ov] ! outside & pull turn up free f ! bottoms4 ,turn tr\s]s inside out1 all[ to dry aft] us+ gasol5e be=e turn+ up bottoms4 ,if rubb] is to be put 9 ! bottoms1 cut a piece "o in* & a half wide1 & ba/e 9 ! turn up or hem & fa/5 hem to ! side seams ) silk1 only leave a two in* turn up1 cut balance (f4 ,be=e press+1 place on ! small end ( press-jack & press all ar\nd z 9 press+ cuffs or bottom ( tr\s]s z expla9$4 7,b n ) sponge clo?1 only ) iron & wet bottoms ) sponge74 ,press until rubb] is ?or\ghly melt$ & set4 ,:5 "o has press$ bo? bottoms all ar\nd1 turn tr\s]s "r side out & press bottoms z 9 ord9>y press+4 ,:5 bottoms are fell$1 leave two in*es = turn up & cut (f ! balance4 ,fell ) silk all ar\nd1 be+ c>eful n to let /it*es %[ ?r\gh on "r side4 ,press bottoms same z expla9$4 ,:5 tr\s]s are to be l5g!n$1 loos5 !m at ! bottom measure ) tape l9e1 ! desir$ l5g?1 f crot* d[n1 mak+ !m "o in* %ort] 9 ! back or accord+ to fa%ion4 ,m>k ) *alk ! desir$ l5g?1 & place rubb] or fell z ! case may be1 & press z expla9$2 b if tr\s]s are to be l5g!n$1 all4 ,x w be necess>y1 to sew a piece ( clo? to ! bottoms same size & same clo? 7or z ne> z possible71 sew on ma*9e & ba/e edges out ev51 & place rubb] or fell2 press bottoms & f9i% 9 ! usual way by turn+ tr\s]s "r side out1 & press+ bottoms & legs4 ,sew heel protectors on 7!y may be made ( silesia by turn+ all edges 91 or made ( clo?1 same mat]ial z tr\s]s7 half in* wide & f\r in*es long1 sewn half2 ea* side ( ! c5t] or crease ( back tr\s] bottom4 ,?is mu/ be sew$ to ! inside ( bottom4 ,:5 tr\s]s are too l>ge ar\nd ! wai/1 m>k ) *alk 7or p9 on cu/om]71 ! am\nt to be tak5 91 rip back seam d[n z f> z is requir$4 ,remove ! two back susp5d] buttons & rip l9+ back f> en\gh = conv5i5ce 9 work+4 ,ba/e ! back seam toge!r & sew 9 ! *alk m>k 7by ma*9e or by h&7 to )9 two in*es ( ! top ( wai/ b&2 press seam op5 & fa/5 back seam at wai/ to ! wai/ b& on ea* side & leave an outlet "o in* & a half wide1 ea* side ( ! back seam at ! top1 tap]+ to no?+ at ! bottom or ?ree in*es f ! inside leg seam4 ,sew back susp5d] buttons on two in*es ea* side ( back seam4 ,put a good neck on buttons to all[ susp5d] button holes to fit smoo?ly ar\nd button4 ,?is may be done by plac+ a mat* or p9 ov] ! top ( button & sew+ ov] x1 fill+ ! holes ) twi/$ ?read or button cord made = t purpose1 z expla9$ 9 7h[ to make button cord47 ,:5 holes are fill$1 remove ! mat* or p91 & w9d cord ar\nd "u button1 & fa/5 by tak+ two /it*es ?r\gh ! neck1 & cut ?read (f4 ,n[ fell l9+ back 9 place1 leav+ an op5+ at top (1 say two in*es 9 back seam = ease4 ,press & f9i% 9 ! usual way4 ,:5 tr\s]s are to be made l>g] ar\nd wai/1 rip l9+ ?ree in*es ea* side ( ! back seam at top & remove ! two top back susp5d] buttons4 ,rip back seam d[n ! requir$ am\nt & press out ! m>k made by ! seam4 ,n[ ) ! *alk1 m>k ! am\nt to be made l>g]1 half ! am\nt on ea* side ( seam1 ba/e seam & sew on ma*9e or by h& 9 *alk m>k4 ,remove ba/+1 & press seam op51 fa/5 to ea* side ( ! seam at wai/ z be=e1 leav+ two in*es op5 at ! top = ease4 ,sew two back susp5d] buttons on2 & fell wai/ b& l9+4 ,f9i% & press 9 ! usual way4 ,:5 tr\s]s are to be made l>g] at ! wai/1 & !re is no?+ to let out1 remove back susp5d] buttons z expla9$1 & wai/ b& l9+4 ,cut a piece ( clo? ,v %ape z long z is necess>y & ( ! same mat]ial or z ne> z possible2 make ?is piece two seams wid] ?an requir$4 ,?is may be det]m9$ by ! am\nt to be made l>g]1 7! l>g] ! piece at ! top1 ! long] ! w$ge w h to be1 z x w n d to h an abrupt slant74 ,ba/e "r sides ( clo? & tr\s]s toge!r1 sew on ma*9e & remove ba/+ & press op5 ! seam4 ,!n ba/e o!r side & seam1 !n press op52 fa/5 a piece ( canvas across ! top ( wai/ :]e piece has be5 set 91 & /it* ) ma*9e across1 9 keep+ ) ! /it*+ on ! wai/ b&4 ,if no wai/ seam1 j /it* ev5 ) ! wai/ /it*+4 ,sew back susp5d] buttons on1 & fell wai/ b& l9+ at top1 & f9i% z expla9$1 fa/5+ wai/ b& l9+ to seams to hold x 9 place2 press & f9i%4 ,:5 press+ seams1 always press on ! smoo? side ( ! press-jack1 & damp5 ) ! wet sponge1 ?is w make press+ easi]2 b d n put too mu* wat] on seams4 ,h[ to make button cords = sew+ on buttons4 ,?read a ne$le ) l95 ?read d\ble1 !n rub beeswax up & d[n ! ?read2 !n twi/1 & :5 "o has twi/$ en\gh1 rub ) a piece ( clo?4 ,?is w help to keep ! twi/ 9 ! cord & make x /rong1 :i* is v ess5tial 9 sew+ on buttons2 "o kn[s h[ annoy+ x is to h buttons com+ (f2 ?is may be prev5t$ by sew+ !m on good ) twi/$ ?read4 ,:5 us+ silk ?read1 always draw x ?r\gh beeswax & rub ?r\gh clo? to remove excess wax4 ,?is w make ! silk /rong]1 & also w slip ?r\gh ! clo? m easily :5 sew+4 ,a good me?od ( hang+ a skirt4 ,h cu/om] /& on top ( ! /airs1 ! fitt] sitt+ on ! second /ep4 ,?is is an easy way to see t skirts hang ev5ly all ar\nd1 m>k+ ! prop] l5g? )\t ris+1 or gett+ on ! knees or sitt+ on ! floor4 ,iron+ ov] buttons made easy & safe4 ,place f\r ply wadd+ on press-jack1 buttons fac+ wadd+4 ,iron f ! wrong side until dry4 ,?is is equally good 9 iron+ embroid]y wai/s4 7,:5 iron+ embroid]y :ite wadd+ %\ld be us$47 ,,lesson ,v4 ,,press+4 ,h[ to sponge & %r9k all k9ds ( wool5 goods = dressmak]s & tailors1 be=e mak+ into g>m5ts1 also = "o's own use at home4 ,h[ to use ! iron & sponge clo?s4 ,h[ to press h>d f9i%$ wor/$s4 ,h[ to press s+le & d\ble brea/$ sack coats1 ov]coats1 ra9 coats1 ,tux$os1 motorm5 & conductors1 also fatigue coats1 cutaways1 morn+1 dress coats1 ,pr9ce ,alb]ts1 milit>y1 cl]ical1 uni=ms1 footman's liv]ies1 ,newm>ket1 ,paddock & ,palitot4 ,all k9d ( jackets1 coats & skirts = ladies4 ,h[ to press s+le & d\ble brea/$ ve/s ) or )\t coll>s1 also cl]ical & fancy ve/s4 ,h[ to press tr\s]s4 ,h[ to sponge & %r9k all k9ds ( wool5 goods = dressmak]s & tailors1 be=e mak+ into g>m5ts1 also = "o's use at home4 ,to prep>e a sponge clo? = t purpose1 use unblea*$ cotton f\r y>ds long1 7or z long z ! clo? to be %runk requires71 boil 9 soap & wat] = "o h\r1 r9se 9 clean wat] to remove any l9t1 !n x is ready = use4 ,place wool5 goods to be spong$ on a table or clean floor1 !n wet ! sponge clo? by dipp+ x into a pail or bas9 ( w>m wat] s t x w get ?or\ghly wet1 wr+ out almo/ dry 7b n s dry z :5 press+7 & place ov] ! goods smoo?ly1 see t ! clo? is free f wr9kles4 ,make a flat roll six in*es wide1 or z wide z a wrapp+ bo>d w\ld be 7d n roll on a bo>d z x w leave a m>k difficult to remove74 ,roll ev5ly until clo? to be %runk is ?or\ghly cov]$1 sides & ends ) sponge clo?4 ,"t requir$ = goods to rema9 9 sponge4 ,close wov5 mat]ial1 su* z h>d f9i%$ wor/$s1 broad clo?1 k]seys1 meltons & beav]s1 require to be left 9 sponge ?ree h\rs :ile op5 wove goods1 su* z homespuns1 unf9i%$ wor/$s1 s(t ov]coat+s1 & ladies' clo? requires b two h\rs4 ,:5 goods is ready to be tak5 out ( sponge1 unroll & place ov] a r\nd pole1 7suffici5t height to all[ clo? to cle> ! floor71 or lay smoo?ly on a table or floor4 ,:5 dry1 fold 7n roll7 d\ble1 & s on until y h a fold sev5 or eight in*es wide1 & small en\gh to place 9 a package4 ,! wr9kles may be press$ out ) a w>m iron1 be+ c>eful n to all[ gloss to =m1 & see t iron is n hot en\gh to burn or scor* clo?4 ,also to see t ends are ev5 especially on /ripes & *ecks1 & to see t *ecks & plaids mat*4 ,:5 press+ always h ! iron to ! "r on ! table1 ! edge ( ! g>m5t fac+ t[>d ! press]4 ,/>t press+ ! "r side ( all g>m5ts fir/4 ,9 ?is way =m+ a sy/em ( do+ ! "w4 ,:5 press+ all k9ds ( coats1 ve/s1 ladies' jackets & coats1 h ! neck1 coll>1 or wai/ seam ly+ on ! small end ( ! press-jack1 & />t f ! c5t] back seam ( all coats & ve/s1 & press =w>d on ! "r side1 t[>d ! front edge4 ,to press ! left side ( all coats & ve/s1 rev]se ! press-jack & g>m5t s t neck1 coll> wai/ seam or b& is ly+ to ! left4 ,comm5c+ z be=e1 f ! c5t] back seam ( g>m5t1 & cont9ue press+ left side1 & ar\nd to ! front edge1 :i* mu/ be fac+ ! press]4 ,coats1 ve/s1 jackets & coats1 %\ld be plac$ on hang]s to reta9 _! prop] %ape4 ,a good iron re/ = ! table1 is made by nail+ a smoo? horse%oe to a block ( wood1 a trifle l>g] ?an ! %oe4 ,:5 us+ ! "u wool5 press clo?1 cotton sponge clo? & iron1 lay ! "u wool5 press clo?1 & sponge clo? on t "p ( ! g>m5t to be press$1 & apply ! iron until sponge clo? %[s signs ( dry+4 ,!n remove ! clo?s & iron1 & slap ) ! back ( ! bru% t "p j press$1 to refre%5 same1 & bru% ! "p press$1 ) ! ?read or nap ( ! fabric2 ?us mak+ ! g>m5t look l new4 ,g ov] ! entire g>m5t 7& all g>m5ts7 9 ?is mann] until ! :ole g>m5t has be5 press$4 ,:5 tr\s]s h be5 press$1 place !m ov] a r\nd pole1 susp5d$ f ! ceil+1 or fa/5$ to ! wall ) brackets4 ,a /ill bett] way is to place !m on individual hang]s4 ,d n give cu/om]s g>m5ts damp f press+1 place !m on hang]s & all[ !m to rema9 = "o h\r be=e we>+ or deliv]+4 ,d n try to press clo!s t are damp f clean+ or o!rwise4 ,all[ !m to ?or\ghly dry1 :5 !y w press m easily1 & cu/om]s bett] satisfi$1 by giv+ !m fir/-rate "w4 ,:5 a g>m5t has be5 press$ all ov]1 exam9e x ?or\ghly = gloss1 & :]e any appe>s1 remove x z expla9$ 79 h[ to press h>d f9i%$ wor/$s47 ,?is process %\ld be foll[$ c>efully :5 press+ all k9ds ( g>m5ts4 ,:5 press+1 ! iron %\ld nev] be %ov$ or pu%$1 z 9 iron+1 z be=e expla9$2 z x is apt to /ret* :]e n requir$4 ,only heavy mat]ials require heavy press+ or great /r5g?4 ,:atev] ! mat]ial1 press+ is "w t requires to be done c>efully & sl[ly4 ,:5 press+ seams1 all[ ! iron to t\* only ! c5t] ( ! seam1 !n ! edges ( ! seam w n be outl9$ on ! outside ( ! g>m5t4 ,?is h[ev]1 is only int5d$ = light weight goods1 z :5 press+ seams 9 heavy mat]ial1 x is necess>y to press m solid4 ,h[ to press h>d f9i%$ wor/$s4 ,:5 press+ h>d f9i%$ wor/$s1 place "u wool5 press clo?1 & sponge clo? ov] ! "p to be press$1 7wr+ sponge clo? z ne>ly dry z possible71 & apply ! iron1 n too hot1 all[+ x to re/ until sponge clo? is entirely dry4 7,?is is t]m$ by tailors1 z dry press+ or gloss+74 ,n[ remove iron1 & press clo?s & place a damp "p ( ! sponge clo? ov] t "p j press$1 to remove ! gloss1 if any1 by apply+ ! iron lightly1 & slap ) ! back ( ! bru% :ile /eam+4 ,also bru%+ ! nap ( ! clo?4 ,avoid /ret*+ :ile press+ especially ! edges & coll>1 unless x is requir$1 7& ! press] und]/&s :]e to /ret*1 & is famili> ) ! fitt+ qualities ( ! g>m5t47 ,:5 press+ ar\nd ! pockets1 h flaps on ! outside1 & turn pockets inside out be=e clean+1 t all du/ & dirt may be remov$1 !n return ! pockets to _! prop] place be=e />t+ to press4 ,:5 a coat or ve/ is plac$ on ! table or press-jack1 to be press$1 & "o notices fullness along front edges & bottom1 press fullness away by lay+ "u press clo? & sponge clo? ov] "p to be press$ & leave iron until sponge clo? is entirely dry1 !n remove clo?s & apply a damp "p ( ! press clo?1 & iron aga9 to remove gloss z expla9$ be=e4 ,always h edge ( g>m5ts po9t+ t[>d ! press]4 ,?is may be le>n$ & accompli%$ 9 a %ort "t ) little practice4 ,h[ to clean & press s+le & d\ble brea/$ sack coats1 motorm5 & conductors1 also fatigue3 ,bru% ?or\ghly1 & if necess>y :ip ) cane1 be+ c>eful n to break ! buttons on ! g>m5t4 ,turn all pockets inside out1 & h flaps on ! outside4 ,remove all spots2 special c>e mu/ be tak5 to remove grease & dirt f ! coll>1 also ! fronts1 ) ! clean+ fluid4 ,place on coat hang]s & :5 dry1 proce$ to press z foll[s3 ,h coat ly+ on ! table or tailor's b5* to ! "r1 draw ! "r cuff ov] ! small end ( ! press-jack :i* %\ld be po9t+ to ! "r4 ,lay ! sponge clo?s ov] t "p ( ! g>m5t to be press$1 7:i* y h prep>$ by wett+ 9 a pail or bas9 ( w>m wat] us$ = t purpose & wrung until almo/ dry71 !n apply ! iron until ! sponge clo?s %[s sign ( dry+4 ,!n remove ! sponge clo?s & iron1 & slap ) ! back ( bru% 7z has be5 expla9$47 ,cont9ue ?is ar\nd ! "r sleeve cuff1 & also ! left4 ,!n ) ! coat 9 ! same position1 rev]se ! press-jack & place ! "r sleeve1 top side up on ! l>ge end ( ! press-jack1 be+ c>eful to h ! sleeve smoo!d out nicely1 !n lay sponge clo?s ov] & apply ! iron1 press+ full l5g? & wid?1 up & d[n ! sleeve1 7be+ c>eful to see t no wr9kles are press$ 9 ! sleeve47 ,remove ! clo?s & iron z be=e1 slapp+ ) ! back ( ! bru%1 !n bru%+ ! nap to refre%5 ! clo?4 ,turn sleeve ov] & press "u side ( sleeve ! same4 ,press left sleeve 9 ! same mann]4 ,crease sleeves front & back1 if reque/$ by cu/om]4 ,rev]se ! press-jack & draw "r %\ld] ( coat ov] ! small end ( ! press-jack 9 a conv5i5t mann]1 & press ar\nd ! armholes1 by lay+ ! sponge clo?s on ! "p to be press$4 ,apply ! iron z be=e1 & !n slap ) ! back ( ! bru%4 ,n[ press ar\nd left %\ld] & arm hole 9 ! same mann]4 ,next place ! coat s t ! coll> po9ts to ! "r on ! l>ge end ( ! press-jack4 ,lay ! sponge clo?s on ! back ( ! coat1 apply+ ! iron z be=e1 & press d[n back & ar\nd "r side ( coat to ! front edge2 always hav+ ! edge ( ! g>m5t t[>d ! press]4 ,rev]se press-jack & coat1 !n z be=e1 comm5ce press+ at ! c5t] back seam1 & =w>d to ! front edge4 ,?is completes ! left side4 ,place ! coat on table or tailor's b5*1 & rev]se press-jack2 lift coat & place coll> or press-jack 9 a conv5i5t way1 s t ! coll> & lapel1 :5 press$1 w be creas$ ! same z :5 worn4 ,comm5ce press+ f ! c5t] ( coll> to ! "r side ( lapel1 be+ c>eful n to /ret* ! edges ( lapel or coll>4 ,!n f ! c5t] ( coll> at ! back1 press =w>d on left side z be=e4 ,turn coat inside out1 & smoo? l9+ ) cool iron1 & ) an almo/ dry sponge clo?4 ,?is w remove any wr9kles1 & leave ! l9+ smoo?4 ,n[ press ! "r side ( fac+ & lapel1 by lay+ f\r-ply ( wadd+ on ! press-jack1 & place "r =ep>t ( coat s t ! buttons face t[>d ! wadd+1 & press on ! wrong side1 ! buttons w s9k into ! wadd+ !reby avoid+ ! break+ ( same1 :i* is v easily done if great c>e is n tak54 ,n[ remove ! wadd+ & press left side on ! padd$ side ( press-jack 9 ! usual mann]4 ,n[ turn ! coat "r side out1 place "r %\ld] 9 a conv5i5t mann] on ! small end ( ! press-jack1 & if any wr9kles appe> on top ( ! "r sleeve head1 press !m out4 ,d ! same ) ! left side4 ,look coat ov] ?or\ghly = gloss1 if any appe>s1 place coat on press-jack 9 a conv5i5t mann] & remove z expla9$4 ,:5 press+ coats1 be c>eful to h ! flaps on ! outside1 ! pockets return$ to _! prop] place inside1 be=e />t+ to press4 ,roll fronts ( coats to ! inside1 s t !y w reta9 _! prop] %ape1 also to give to !m t *e/y effect1 :i* is v ess5tial1 9 ! press+ ( all k9ds ( coats1 & ve/s4 ,"o w soon become famili> ) ! "w by a little practice4 ,place coats on hang]s to dry be=e we>+ or deliv]+4 ,sack ov]coats1 ra9-coats & ,tux$os1 are press$ 9 ! same way4 ,h[ to clean & press cutaway dress1 ,pr9ce ,alb]t1 milit>y1 cl]ical1 uni=ms1 footman's liv]ies1 ,newm>ket1 ,paddock & ,palitot4 ,! above g>m5ts are clean$ & press$ ! same z o!r g>m5ts1 b ) ?is diff]5ce3--,coats ) skirts are press$ f ! coll> or neck to ! wai/ l9e or seam1 !n mov$ up to ! wai/ l9e or seam1 & press$ f t to ! bottom ( skirt1 & ar\nd to ! front1 hav+ ! edge ( ! g>m5t po9t+ t[>d ! press]4 ,all coats l9$ ) silk are press$ v lightly1 especially lapels & fac+s 7z ! m>k ( ! iron %[s easy2 & on silks is difficult to remove47 ,silk %\ld look fluffy 9 a g>m5t1 & !re=e does n require mu* press+4 ,great c>e mu/ be tak5 :5 clean+1 press+1 & repair+ dress suits1 ,tux$os1 ,pr9ce ,alb]ts1 & any g>m5t t is silk l9$4 ,! price to *>ge = su* "w may only be figur$ by ! am\nt ( silk1 & "t requir$ to d ! "w4 ,silk fac+s may be _h by mail+ samples to ?is (fice1 & we w s5d price li/4 ,h[ to clean & press ladies' jackets & coats3 ,bru% ?or\ghly1 & if necess>y1 :ip ) cane to remove all du/ & dirt4 ,remove all spots ) ! clean+ fluid1 place on hang]s1 & :5 dry1 press z foll[s3 ,ladies' jackets & coats are press$ ! same z m5's1 b ) ! foll[+ diff]5ces3 ,press ar\nd cuffs1 sleeves & %\ld]s on ! small end ( ! press-jack1 !n />t at ! c5t] back seam & press =w>d to ! front edge1 hav+ ! coll> or neck po9t+ to ! "r4 ,always h ! edge ( ! g>m5t fac+ ! press]4 ,rev]se ! press-jack1 coat or jacket1 & comm5ce press+ z be=e1 d[n ! back seam & ar\nd left side to front edge4 ,lay sleeves on ! press-jack & press z be=e1 be+ c>eful to h plaits 9 ! "r creases & ! ga!r+s 9 _! prop] place4 ,d n all[ m plaits or wr9kles to =m on ! top ( ! sleeves ?an is ne$$4 ,h[ to clean & press all k9ds ( skirts = ladies1 ,bru% ?or\ghly & :ip if necess>y1 turn ! skirt inside out1 & bru% du/ & dirt1 f ! seams & bottom4 ,clean all grease spots1 if any1 ) ! clean+ fluid1 place on hang]s1 & :5 dry1 press z foll[s3 ,draw skirt on press-jack ) ! wai/ b& po9t+ to ! left1 on ! small end ( ! press-jack2 ! skirt to be drawn on ! press-jack to ! left4 ,use ! sponge clo?s & iron ! same z :5 press+ o!r g>m5ts4 ,press ar\nd ! top ( ! skirt & z f> bel[ z ! press-jack w all[4 ,if skirt is plait$1 be c>eful to h ! plaits ly+ smoo? on ! press-jack1 ei!r p9 or ba/e plaits 9 _! prop] creases be=e />t+ to press4 ,:5 press+ ?9 skirts1 x is n necess>y to press v h>d1 only until ! /eam arises1 !n slap ) ! back ( ! bru% to keep /eam 9 ! goods1 also to refre%5 ! g>m5t4 ,place on skirt hang]s to dry be=e we>+ or deliv]+4 ,always look = gloss1 & if any appe>s1 remove z expla9$4 ,h[ to clean & press s+le & d\ble brea/$ ve/s1 cl]ical1 ) or )\t coll>3 ,bru% ?or\ghly & :ip ) cane1 if necess>y1 to remove du/ & dirt1 be+ c>eful n to break ! buttons on ! g>m5t4 ,turn all pockets inside out to remove all du/ & dirt f !m4 ,!n remove all spots ) ! clean+ fluid z expla9$4 ,place on coat hang]1 & :5 dry1 press z foll[s3 ,place ! "r =ep>t ( ! ve/ smoo? on ! press-jack1 ) ! edge fac+ ! press]1 & ! neck or ! coll> po9t+ to ! "r4 ,cov] ) sponge clo?s & apply ! iron until ! clo? %[s signs ( dry+4 ,remove & slap ) ! back ( ! bru%1 !n bru% ! nap ( ! clo? to refre%5 & make x look l new1 be+ c>eful n to /ret* ! op5+ :5 press+ ! =ep>t & %\ld]s4 ,:5 press+ ! =ep>ts ( ve/s1 />t at ! side seams1 & press =w>d to ! front edge4 ,n[ rev]se ! press-jack & ve/ & press left side 9 ! same mann]1 ar\nd ! %\ld]s & arm holes4 ,n[ smoo? ! wr9kles f ! back1 />t+ f ! c5t] & press+ =w>d to ! "r side seam2 !n press ! left side 9 ! same mann]4 ,?is removes ! wr9kles1 & may be done ) almo/ dry sponge clo? & m$ium w>m iron4 ,all ve/s are press$ 9 ! same way1 ) ! exception ( fancy or :ite ve/s4 ,) ^! use a pla9 :ite cotton clo?1 & wet sponge ) clean wat]4 ,fancy wool ve/s %\ld be dry clean$ be=e press+4 ,wa% ve/s require a little ?9 boil$ />* to give body to goods1 !n iron :5 almo/ dry4 ,turn all pockets inside out be=e />t+ to press4 ,! pockets are press$ fir/1 !n return$ to _! prop] place1 !reby keep+ ! m\? ( ! pocket neat & ev54 ,cont9ue ! iron+ until ! ve/ is complet$4 ,) a little practice1 "o w soon become famili> ) ! "w4 ,always be+ c>eful n to /ret* ! op5+4 ,r %r9k 91 by press+ 9 a half circle f left to "r t[>d ! front edge4 ,:5 press+ ve/s exam9e ! pockets & see if !re is a *amois wat* pocket1 if !re is sew or fa/5 a piece ( clo? on ! outside ( ve/ pocket z a rem9d] n to press ov] ! pocket2 if y did x w\ld spoil ! *amois1 & a new pocket w\ld h to be put 9 = ! cu/om]4 ,h[ to clean & press tr\s]s3 ,bru% ?or\ghly f ! "r side1 & :ip1 if necess>y1 !n turn !m inside out4 ,also ! pockets4 ,see t all du/ & dirt is ?or\ghly remov$1 also l9t f ! seams4 ,!n turn "r side out1 & remove all dirt & grease spots ) ! clean+ fluid z expla9$4 ,place on hang]s1 & :5 dry1 proce$ to press z foll[s3 ,place tr\s]s flat on a cov]$ table ) ! knees up 7tr\s]s be+ turn$ inside out7 wet bags at knee ) sponge4 ,apply ! iron1 n too hot & press 9 a circle to ! c5t]1 to remove & %r9k away ! bag2 n[ d ! same ) ! left leg4 ,turn tr\s]s "r side out1 & press ar\nd bottoms1 same z 9 press+ ! cuffs on coats4 ,rev]se press-jack & tr\s]s1 & press ar\nd tops ) sponge clo?s & iron z f> d[n z seat l9e or end ( fly1 />t+ f ! "r side ( fly & press+ ar\nd to ! left fly4 ,remove ! press-jack & lay tr\s]s flat on ! table or b5* t has be5 cov]$ ) felt or clo? 7melton1 k]sey or ?ibet74 ,place creases at ! bottom toge!r ) ! left h&1 & ) ! "r h& place ! two top susp5d] buttons toge!r1 !n lay !m flat on ! b5* or l5g?wise ( ! table4 ,!n turn ! left leg back z f> z ! seat l9e1 & /raight5 ! "r leg out smoo? on ! table4 ,cov] ) ! sponge clo?s & apply ! iron1 press+ full l5g? ( leg1 until clo?s %[s sign ( dry+1 press+ ! front & back creases %>p4 ,!n remove ! iron & sponge clo?s1 !n slap ) ! back ( ! bru% to refre%5 & bright5 ! clo? or g>m5t4 ,n[ turn ! leg ov] & press o!r side 9 ! same mann]2 !n turn leg ov] to inside z at fir/ & br+ ! left leg d[n to meet ! "r bottom4 ,turn tr\s]s ov]1 & !n turn ! "r leg back1 & proce$ to press ! left inside leg ! same z "r4 ,turn left leg ov] & press outside4 ,n[ turn left leg ov] to inside z at fir/1 br++ ! "r leg d[n to meet ! left at ! bottom1 !n h bo? legs ly+ p]fectly ev5 on top ( ea* o!r4 ,press !m toge!r f fly or seat l9e1 d[n to ! bottom4 ,turn tr\s]s ov]1 & press o!r side 9 ! same mann]1 us+ ! back ( bru% = slapp+ & face to bru% nap ( clo?4 ,!n place ! press-jack on ! table aga91 ) ! small end po9t+ to ! "r1 !n draw ! "r bottom ( ! leg ov] ! small end ( press-jack1 & press crease out ?r\gh ! turn up4 ,d ?is at ! front & back ab\t two in*es f ! bottom4 ,n[ press ! bottom ( left leg ! same way4 ,"s cu/om]s d n want ?is crease tak5 out1 !n ( c\rse x is to be left 94 ,b cu/om-made tr\s]s are usually n press$ ?r\gh ! turn up4 ,?is completes ! press+ ( tr\s]s1 place on hang]s be=e we>+ or deliv]+4 ,by practice1 "o may soon become an exp]t4 ,broadfalls are press$ 9 ! same way4 ,exam9e = gloss1 & if any1 remove z expla9$4 ,,lesson ,,vi4 ,,selection ,,( ,,mat]ial4 ,am\nt requir$1 = suits1 ve/s1 tr\s]s1 ov]coats1 dress suits & ,pr9ce ,alb]t suits1 ,tux$os1 ,paddock1 ,paletot2 also ladies' wai/s1 jackets 7long & %ort71 & skirts4 ,! am\nt ( mat]ial requir$ to rel9e coats1 ve/s1 & top ( tr\s]s2 ladies' coats & jackets2 velvet coll>s & silk fac+s4 ,am\nt ( goods requir$ = ! foll[+ g>m5ts3 ,sack ,suits--#cf to #db in*es brea/ measure1 #c y>ds1 #ed in*es wide4 ,cutaway or ,morn+ ,suit--#cf to #db in*es brea/ measure1 #c y>ds1 #ed in*es wide4 ,pr9ce ,alb]t ,suit--#cf to #db in*es brea/ measure1 #c y>ds1 #ed in*es wide4 ,tux$o ,suit--#cf to #db in*es brea/ measure1 #c y>ds1 #ed in*es wide4 ,dress ,suit--#cf to #db in*es brea/ measure1 #c y>ds1 #ed in*es wide4 ,sack ,ov]coat--#cf to #db in*es brea/ measure1 #db in*es long1 #b y>ds1 #ed in*es wide4 ,tr\s]s--#cj to #db in*es wai/ measure1 #cf to #db seat measure1 #cj to #cd inside leg measure1 #a y>ds4 ,ve/s--#cf to #db in*es brea/ measure1 #a y>d1 #ed in*es wide4 ,paddock or ,palitot--#cf to #db in*es brea/ measure1 #d y>ds1 #ed in*es wide4 ,ladies' ,%irt ,wai/--#cj to #dj in*es bu/ measure1 #c y>ds1 #bg in*es wide4 ,ladies' ,jackets & ,coats 7%ort7--#cj to #dj in*es bu/ measure1 #b y>ds1 #ed in*es wide4 ,ladies' ,jackets & ,coats 7long7--#cj to #dj in*es bu/ measure1 #d y>ds1 #ed in*es wide4 ,ladies' ,skirts--#bj to #db in*es wai/ measure1 #dj to #dd in*es long1 #d y>ds1 #ed in*es wide4 ,am\nt ( goods requir$ to rel9e ! foll[+ g>m5ts3 ,sack or ,tux$o ,coat--#b y>ds1 #cb in* or #a y>ds1 #ed in*es wide4 ,s]ge1 ,alpaca1 ,italian clo?1 or silk1 to mat*4 #a y>d fancy sate5 sleeve l9+4 ,ov]coats--#db in*es long1 #b y>ds1 #cb in*es wide or #b y>ds1 #ed in*es wide4 ,s]ge1 ,italian clo?1 or ,circassian4 #a y>ds sat9 sleeve l9+1 #bj in*es wide4 ,or #a y>d1 #dj in* ,lu/]5e sleeve l9+4 ,ov]coats1 ,silk or ,sat9 ,l9$ ,?r\gh\t--,require f #d to #e y>ds4 ,ve/s-- y>d1 #cb or #ed in*es wide4 ,s]ge1 ,alpaca1 ,italian clo? or silk1 = outside back4 #a y>d #bj in* fancy sate51 = inside body l9+4 ,tr\s]s-- y>d #bj in* color$ sate51 = wai/ b& l9+4 ,dress ,coats--,pr9ce ,alb]ts1 #c y>ds #cj in* silk1 = ! =m]1 & #d y>ds1 = ! latt]4 ,tux$o ,fac+--#a y>d heavy cord$ or fancy weave silk4 ,dress or ,pr9ce ,alb]t 7fancy7--#g_/h y>d heavy cord$ or fancy weave silk4 ,velvet ,coll>s = ,ov]coats--v>y 9 wid? f #d to #f in*es wide on ! bias4 ,?is may be det]m9$ :5 velvet coll> is ripp$ (f by measur+ wid?4 ,:5 new buttons are requir$1 replace ) z ne> z possible to ! orig9al4 ,:5 us+ silk1 & buttonhole twi/1 mat* clo? z ne> z c be _h4 ,,lesson ,,vii4 ,,c>e ,,( ,,clo!s4 ,"u ?is lesson is expla9$ ! c>e ( clo!s4 ,h[ to keep !m look+ fre% & clean4 ,h[ to be well dress$4 ,c>e ( clo!s3 ,clean+1 bru%+1 repair+ & press+ frequ5tly is a /ep 9 ! "r *annel1 = a man's appe>ance dep5ds l>gely ^u ! c>e he takes ( 8 clo!s4 ,clo!s %\ld be bru%$ (t5 especially aft] be+ worn 9 ! du/ & dirt1 & %\ld be hung up 9 a clean place :]e !y w be out ( ! du/4 ,coats & ve/ %\ld always be plac$ on coat hang]s toge!r to reta9 _! %ape1 & to be ready = we> :5 want$4 ,! loop at ! back ( ! coat coll>1 %\ld nev] be us$ to hang coats up by b = a few m9utes1 z ! weight ( g>m5ts w pull ! coll> out ( %ape4 ,tr\s]s aft] be+ bru%$ ?or\ghly1 %\ld be turn$ inside out1 & plac$ on hang]s1 by do+ ?is y are rev]s+ ! folds & wr9kles t h =m$ :ile we>+1 !reby all[+ ! clo? to fall back into place4 ,x is impossible to prev5t tr\s]s bagg+ at ! knees1 b may be prev5t$ 9 ?is way4 ,fa/5 a piece ( silk to ! =ep>t ( tr\s]s on ! inside to bo? leg seams across top & bottom ( silk1 sev5 in*es above & t5 in*es bel[ ! knee1 be+ c>eful :5 sew+ n to let ! /it*es %[ ?r\gh on ! out side4 ,ano!r sugge/ion & a good "o1 is to buy two pairs tr\s]s ) ea* suit 7except a dress suit1 !n x is n necess>y7 & we> !m alt]nately1 two days at a "t1 & h !m press$ ea* "t y *ange1 & turn$ inside out ea* night4 ,x is a good idea to h a r[ ( hooks at ! top ( "o's w>drobe f :i* to hang ^! =ms1 !reby sav+ mu* space especially 9 ! small] h\ses4 ,c>e %\ld be tak5 to draw tr\s]s up well :5 we>+1 s t !y w set prop]ly4 ,:5 tr\s]s are worn )\t susp5d]s1 !y mu/ be cut %ort] wai/$1 %ort] 9 ! legs & clos] ar\nd ! wai/4 ,if "o we>s susp5d]s x is a luxury to h a pair = ea* pair ( tr\s]s4 ,!n :5 "o adju/m5t is made saves any fur!r bo!r4 ,bru%+ clo!s is a v simple b necess>y op]ation1 a fact :i* few p ?or\ghly appreciate4 ,f9e clo!s require bru%+ lightly ) a s(t bru%1 except :5 mud is to be remov$1 !n a /iff bru% %\ld be us$1 aft] g>m5t has be5 lightly beat5 to loos5 ! dirt4 ,nev] use a :isk broom to bru% clo!s z !y injure ! fibre ( ! clo?4 ,:5 bru%+ lay ! coat on a table1 & bru% 9 ! direction ( ! ?read or nap ( ! fabric4 ,a well made1 well fitt+ g>m5t %\ld n be ?r[n away :5 slightly worn1 b %\ld be repair$1 clean$ & press$4 ,_m times la/+ z long aft] be+ repair$ z at fir/4 ,unless absolutely necess>y nev] pat*1 :5 d>n+ w answ] ! purpose bett]4 ,if ! g>m5t is n too badly worn ba/e a piece ( clo?1 ! same z ! mat]ial 9 ! g>m5t 7or z ne> z possible7 "u ! weak5$ "p & d>n to ?is piece4 ,"o may back /it* ) silk to mat* ! clo?1 or make a small runn+ /it*4 ,:5 ! entire "p has be5 ?or\ghly d>n$1 turn ! g>m5t inside out & h]r+bone all ar\nd ! piece ( clo? 7or pat* to ! inside7 be+ c>eful n to all[ /it*es to %[ ?r\gh on ! outside4 ,press & !y are ready = we>4 ,?is is especially good :5 repair+ ! seat ( tr\s]s4 ,tape is invaluable 9 repair+1 z x may be us$ to /r5g!n weak places & :]e buttons are to be sew$1 act+ z a /ay1 also sav+ "t ( turn+ ! edges ( ! clo? 91 & is less clumsy4 ,rusk9 says1 ,clo!s c>efully c>$ =1 & rightly worn1 %[ a balance ( m9d & respect4 ,! fre%ness ( a g>m5t dep5ds ^u ! c>e tak5 ( x1 & only requires a few m9utes ea* "t !y are tak5 (f2 !y %\ld be c>efully bru%$1 to remove all du/ & dirt1 remov+ all spots1 buttons sew$ on & replac$ :5 worn1 new braid on ! bottoms ( skirts1 clean+ & press+1 mak+ little necess>y alt]ations4 ,all ^! little duties giv5 prop] att5tion1 w keep a w>drobe fre% & 9 good ord]4 ,x is n always ! we> on ! clo!s1 t tell s sadly ^u !m4 ,x is ! c>e t !y receive4 ,a few g>m5ts1 well made & prop]ly fitt$1 & good c>e tak5 ( !m1 is f> m pref]able ?an a numb] ( inf]ior quality & make4 ,:5 clo?+ is laid away = ano!r season1 !y %\ld fir/ be ?or\ghly bru%$1 repair$1 clean$ & press$1 to be ready = we> :5 ne$$4 ,if plac$ 9 bags or boxes1 ! mo? prev5tative %\ld be spr9kl$ ov] freely4 ,tailors' boxes are v good to place g>m5ts 91 t are n 9 use1 & %\ld be label$ on ! outside z to ! cont5ts4 ,fold all articles on ! seams1 if possible1 be+ c>eful :5 fold+ sleeves & coll>s4 ,coat lapels %\ld be turn$ to lie flat2 coll>s turn$ up1 & ! coat fold$ 9 ! c5t] back seam1 sleeves ly+ toge!r & on top ( ea* o!r4 ,!n fold 9 half crosswise1 & place 9 ! box4 ,if fancy wai/s & coats are put 9 draw]s1 fill ! sleeves ) tissue pap]4 ,?is w prev5t wr9kl+4 ,to be well dress$1 "o's clo!s mu/ be ( good mat]ial & fit well4 ,! l5g? ( wai/1 & full l5g? %\ld be 9 proportion to ! we>]1 or z ne> fa%ion z good ta/e w p]mit4 ,sleeve ! "r l5g?1 & hang prop]ly1 & to come to ! root ( ! ?umb4 ,! coll> mu/ fit close ar\nd ! neck1 ! lapels %\ld be neat & ev51 ! op5+ 9 front %\ld close )\t bulg+ :5 button$1 & %\ld h no cross wr9kles "u ! back ( arms1 & no wr9kles bel[ ! coll>4 ,! :ole appe>ance ( ! g>m5t mu/ be easy1 ! *e/ %\ld be ( ! a?letic /yle 7*e/y71 :ile ! wai/ %\ld be close fitt+ & flat 7n tight74 ,! arm hole %\ld n be too deep s t ! coat w rema9 9 its prop] position :ile sitt+ z :5 /&+4 ,! buttonholes mu/ be neat1 & ! buttons sew$ on good & /rong ) neck4 ,! ov]coat %\ld be easy1 n clumsy1 & ( fa%ionable l5g?1 sleeves to cov] ! "u coat1 & to fit close ar\nd ! neck 7sleeves ( a ra9 coat may be long] ?an ^? ( an ord9>y ov]coat71 & mu/ be ! same l5g? at front & back at bottom4 ,a ve/ %\ld fit easy to all[ ! body to slip up & d[n1 :e!r sitt+ or /oop+1 m especially ! =m]4 ,a great _m p make ! mi/ake by hav+ _! ve/s made snug4 ,"o w nev] get a good fitt+ ve/ 9 ?is way4 ,a ve/ %\ld come up close ar\nd ! coll>1 & high en\gh1 s t x w n crawl "u ! l95 coll>1 ?is may be avoid$ by hav+ a good tailor make "o's clo!s4 ,tr\s]s %\ld be ! prop] l5g?1 & ( ample size ov] ! hips1 knee1 & to fall gracefully ov] ! %oe at ! bottom1 7"s we> !m v %ort ) cuff or ,fr5* bottoms1 ?is is a /yle = college t[ns1 & is n univ]sal47 ,! wai/ %\ld be ! prop] height & size ar\nd1 7= tr\s]s worn )\t susp5d]s1 ! wai/ mu/ fit clos] & cut %ort] wai/$74 ,/\t m5 d n want _! tr\s]s v long wai/$ & up "u _! arms1 !re=e great c>e mu/ be tak5 :5 select+1 cutt+ & mak+ /\t m5's tr\s]s4 ,:5 try+ on a pair ( tr\s]s1 or 9 fact any g>m5t1 /& be=e ! mirror 9 "o's natural position1 d n twi/ & turn1 & cause wr9kles to =m all ov] ! g>m5t1 & :5 look+ at ! tr\s]s1 look at !m 9 ! mirror2 d n look d[n ^u !m z _m d1 & (t5 condemn a good fitt+ pair ( tr\s]s1 because by /oop+ & look+ d[n1 wr9kles appe> t :5 /&+ natural1 hang smoo? & /raight4 ,,lesson ,,viii4 ,,fold+ ,,clo!s4 ,h[ to fold coats1 ve/s1 tr\s]s1 ladies' jackets1 coats & skirts4 ,h[ to place ea* g>m5t 9 boxes = /or+1 deliv]+1 %ipp+1 ! m>k+ names & addresses on same4 ,h[ to fold all k9ds ( coats1 = deliv]y1 travel+1 /or+1 or %ipp+4 ,turn sleeves back to ! coll>1 s t ! folds come at ! b5d ( ! elb[1 n[ turn ! lapels & fronts back ov] ! fold$ sleeves1 !n fold ! skirts ov] & up level ) ! coll>1 s t ! crease w fold ab\t ! c5t] ( ! g>m5t1 !n d\ble "o-half ov] ! o!r s t ! folds come 9 ! c5t] back seam4 ,to fold ve/s3 ,place two =ep>ts toge!r "r side out1 hav+ ! edges & side seams ev5 & on top ( ea* o!r1 !n fold back ov] fronts ( ve/ s t back seam lays p]p5dicul> ) ! front edge1 /raight5 wr9kles out ( %\ld]4 ,!n fold neck1 or coll> d[n level ) ! bottom1 s t ! crease w fold ab\t ! c5t] ( ! g>m5t1 or bottom ( arm hole4 ,to fold tr\s]s3 ,place two top susp5d] buttons toge!r & front creases at bottoms ev5 & on top ( ea* o!r up & d[n ! leg1 lay smoo? on ! table1 !n fold backs ov] on fronts to meet front creases & tap] to no?+1 to ab\t six in*es above ! knee1 !n fold legs1 br++ ! bottoms up level ) ! top ( tr\s]s1 s t b5d w come ab\t ! knee or half ! entire l5g? ( tr\s]s4 ,!n place 9 box = deliv]y4 ,if1 h[ev]1 tr\s]s are to be plac$ 9 a pap] package = deliv]y1 or to be fold$ small = pack+1 ! foll[+ is an easy me?od1 :5 backs are fold$ ov] to meet ! front creases1 & legs are ly+ smoo? on ! table1 divide ! entire l5g? ( ! tr\s]s 9 ?ree p>ts mak+ two folds1 "o ?ree in*es bel[ ! seat l9e or =k1 ! o!r ab\t fifte5 in*es f ! bottom1 place 9 pap] to deliv]4 ,:5 a suit is to be plac$ 9 a box = deliv]y1 lay tr\s]s 9 fir/1 7fold$ z fir/ expla9$71 ! ve/ next & ! coat la/1 place cov] on box1 & wrap ) heavy cord to hold top & bottom toge!r1 also = conv5i5ce :5 c>ry+4 ,ladies' jackets & coats are fold$ ! same z m5's1 ei!r %ort or long4 ,ladies' skirts are fold$ 9 ?is mann]1 if pla91 take front ( wai/ b& 9 ! "r h&1 & ) ! left f9d c5t] front ( skirt at bottom1 lay on table & fold front ov] to meet ! c5t] back seam ( skirt1 !n fold d\ble & place 9 box or package1 = deliv]y4 ,:5 skirt is plait$ see t ! plaits lay 9 ! prop] creases1 & fold z expla9$ above1 be+ c>eful n to make too small a package s z n to cru%4 ,! firm "n %\ld be pr9t$ on ! cov] ( ! box toge!r ) ^! words1 ,please unpack & place on hang]s z soon z receiv$4 ,?is prev5ts clo!s f wr9kl+ badly4 ,! cu/om]'s "n & address %\ld be writt5 pla9ly 9 ! space left = t purpose on ! cov] ( ! box4 ,:5 s5d+ a package by express or o!r c>ry+ companies1 x is be/ to m>k ! value ( ! cont5ts ( ! package on ! cov]4 ,,lesson ,,ix4 ,,te/+ ,,wool5 ,,clo? ,,& ,,silk4 ,te/+ wool5 clo? & silk3 ,! great value ( wool z a fibre1 lies 9 ! fact t x is /rong1 ela/ic1 s(t & v susceptible to dye /uffs1 & be+ wov51 furni%es a great numb] ( air spaces1 !reby r5d]+ clo?+ made f x v w>m & light4 ,wool may be dissolv$ completely by a w>m solution ( cau/ic soda4 ,clo? may be te/$ by unravell+ a corn] ( a piece ( clo?1 light+ x ) a mat*4 ,if ! flame runs along1 & goes out1 leav+ a br[n a%1 & is smoo? :5 rubb$ betwe5 ! ?umb & f+]1 x conta9s cotton4 ,if x burns & curls up into a ball at ! end1 & goes out1 & ! a%es black l *>coal1 & is gritty :5 rubb$ betwe5 ! ?umb & f+]1 x is a pretty sure indication1 t x is all wool4 ,! /r5g? ( a piece ( clo?1 may be te/$ by a ?read remov$ f ! goods1 by hold+ "o end ) ! "r h&1 & ! o!r ) ! left4 ,pull1 & if x breaks (f %ort1 x is n a /rong piece ( goods1 & w\ld n we> well2 b if x pulls out long & /r+y1 & ^u exam9ation "o f9ds ! fib] f "o to two in*es long1 ?is may be consid]$ a good piece ( goods1 & w\ld we> well4 ,silk may be te/$ by unravell+ an end1 & burn+ ! ?reads4 ,if ! a% is br[n & is smoo? :5 rubb$ betwe5 ! ?umb & f+]1 ?is w\ld n be consid]$ pure dye silk4 ,if1 h[ev]1 :5 light$1 x curls up into a ball at ! end1 & goes out1 & ! a% black & :5 rubb$ betwe5 ! ?umb & f+]1 & is gritty l *>coal1 "o may feel sure t x is pure dye /uff & w give excell5t we> & w n crack4 ,,lesson ,x4 ,,price ,,li/ ,,= ,,clean+ ,,& ,,press+4 ,,repair+ ,,& ,,rel9+ ,,extra4 ,price li/ = clean+ & press+ ! foll[+ g>m5ts4 ,repair+ & rel9+ extra3 ,bus9ess ,suits1 ,tux$os ,suits1 ,dress ,suits1 ,ov]coats1 ,ladies' ,coats & ,jackets1 #a4jj & upw>ds4 ,s+le ,ve/s & ,tr\s]s1 #be;c4 ea* & upw>d4 ,ladies' ,skirts1 #ge c5ts & upw>d4 ,coats1 all k9ds1 /eam or dry clean$1 #a4jj extra4 ,ladies' ,coats1 ,jackets & ,skirts1 /eam or dry clean$ #a4jj extra4 ,ve/s & ,tr\s]s1 #ej c5ts extra4 ,ov]coats1 all k9ds1 /eam or dry clean$1 #a4jj to #b4jj extra4 ,rel9+ ,coats1 #c4jj & upw>d2 ,ve/s1 #a4be & upw>d4 ,new ,wai/ ,b& ,l9+ = ,tr\s]s1 #ge;c4 & upw>d4 ,new ,velvet ,coll>s1 #a4ej & upw>d4 ,s+le ,velvet ,coll>s to buy1 co/ f #ej c5ts upw>d4 ,new ,silk ,fac+s1 #c4jj & upw>d p] y>d4 ,body ,l9+ co/s f #ej c5ts upw>d p] y>d4 ,sate5 ,sleeve & ,ve/ ,l9+ co/s f #be c5ts upw>d p] y>d4 ,silk & ,sat9 ,l9+s co/ f #b4jj & upw>d p] y>d4 ,velvet by ! y>d co/s f #c4jj upw>d4 ,workm5 are usually paid f #bj c5ts to #cj c5ts p] h\r4 ,cu/om]s are usually *>g$ #ej c5ts p] h\r = "t requir$ to d ! "w4 ,all "w done mu/ be figur$ by ! "t requir$ to d ! "w4 ,,lesson ,,xi4 ,,h[ ,,to ,,dress ,,& ,,:at ,,to ,,we>4 ,h[ to dress well4 ,! fir/ ?\ght to consid] 9 supply+ our w>drobe1 is ! mat]ial4 ,let x be ( good quality4 ,*eap /uff is nev] good unless x is good quality at a l[ price4 ,"o good suit ( clo!s1 or dress1 gives bett] satisfaction 79 la/+ qualities1 appe>ance & g5]al makeup7 ?an two suits at ! same price4 ,a well select$ piece ( goods1 tailor$ by a reliable tailor1 always looks well1 & may be kept repair$1 clean$ & press$ into %ape occasionally1 a fact t few m5 prop]ly und]/&4 ,:ile ! l[ pric$ suit nev] has ! look ( t ( a well fitt$ tailor$ suit1 & _c be kept look+ z neat4 ,made to ord] g>m5ts are always fitt$ & made bett] 7if by a reliable mak]74 ,9 ?is way1 "o has ! privilege ( try+ on & be fitt$2 !n :5 a p]fect patt]n has be5 made = y1 y\r future g>m5ts may be made f t patt]n 7*ang+ ! /yle ( c\rse1 b keep+ ! fitt+ po9ts ! same z ! patt]n47 ,m5 & wom5 h _! individual peculi>ities1 su* z "o %\ld] l[1 or "o may be slop+ %\ld]$1 ano!r squ>e1 erect & /oop+1 etc4 ,all ^! diff]5t v>iations mu/ be tak5 into consid]ation :5 mak+ cu/om made g>m5ts 7or g>m5ts made to "o's individual measurem5ts71 & all well dress$ m5 & wom5 %\ld h _! g>m5ts made to ord]4 ,!y are m easily clean$1 press$ & repair$1 = _! build+ & make up has be5 /udi$ & put toge!r by skill$ me*anics4 ,m5 ( limit$ capital :o d n wi% to sp5d mu* money on dress1 %\ld we> d>k mat]ials = suit+s4 ,d>k morn+ suits may be worn on _m occasions :5 a light suit w\ld be bad ta/e4 ,fa%ion %\ld be foll[$1 b avoid extremes4 ,! wr9kles & bags at ! knees %\ld be press$ out frequ5tly4 ,close wov5 clo? keeps its %ape 9 g>m5ts bett]4 ,! ve/ %\ld always be button$4 ,remove buttons on all g>m5ts z soon z !y %[ sign ( we>+1 & replace ) new4 ,skirt$ coats & ve/s %\ld be made to fit closely ar\nd ! wai/1 & loose ov] ! *e/ to give ! we>] t a?letic appe>ance4 ,?is t5ds to make ! we>] /& /raight]4 ,on ! o!r h&1 if a coat or ve/ is tight ov] ! *e/1 x t5ds to make ! we>] /oop4 ,! c>riage ( m5 :o d n we> susp5d]s1 is g5]ally bett] ?an ^? :o we> !m4 ,:5 a s+le brea/$ coat or ve/ is too tight across ! *e/1 9 _m cases x is beyond rem$y1 z ! tailor _c add any?+ to ! front aft] ! g>m5t is complet$4 ,d\ble brea/$ coats & ve/s1 h[ev]1 are diff]5t1 on ^!2 ! buttons may be mov$ a trifle t[>d ! front edge1 !reby giv+ m brea?+ room ov] ! *e/1 :i* is v mu* ne$$1 & adds to ! appe>ance ( ! g>m5t4 ,s+le brea/$ sack ov]coats1 ) fly front1 are mo/ desirable f e po9t ( view4 ,! man ( ta/e & ref9em5t always selects d>k1 quiet colors = 8 ov]coats4 ,m5 ( ta/e :o c>ry canes1 select ^? t are /rong1 pla91 light & small4 ,l>ge canes are 9 v bad ta/e = "y m54 ,a :ite necktie %\ld nev] be worn except ) a full dress suit1 save by cl]gym51 & a few eld]ly m5 :o nev] we> any o!r color4 ,a high silk hat %\ld n be worn ) a sack suit4 ,a l[ hat %\ld n be worn ) a d\ble brea/$ frock or ,pr9ce ,alb]t4 ,/raw hats %\ld n be worn1 only ) light summ] suits4 ,d>k suits are pref]r$ on ,sundays1 especially 9 t[n1 & light suits %\ld nev] be worn to *ur* any:]e4 ,d\ble brea/$ frock coats %\ld be made ( black or grey mat]ials4 ,at small in=mal ga!r+s1 mo/ m5 consid] !mselves suffici5tly dress$ :5 !y we> black frock coats & d>k tr\s]s4 ,x is n necess>y = m5 to we> dress suits :]e ladies are requir$ to be 9 full dress4 ,at public ent]ta9m5ts1 re/aurants & cafes1 = example1 :]e ! ladies we> _! bonnets1 ! man :o we>s a black frock coat1 d>k tr\s]s1 & light kid gloves1 is bett] dress$2 because m appropriately1 ?an he1 :o we>s a full dress suit4 ',tis true1 ! practice ( we>+ su* a suit occasions additional exp5se1 z o!rwise a bus9ess suit1 or walk+ suit1 & a dress suit may be made to s]ve all occasions4 ,:5 at home1 e man goes 9 = com=t1 h[ev] x w be well to rememb] t x is n polite to appe> at ! table1 :e!r !y are /rang]s or n1 or w %[ himself to any "o ) :om he is n on a famili> foot+1 9 8 %irt sleeves4 ,a g5tleman = an ev5+ visit1 %\ld always be 9 ev5+ dress4 ,dress coat1 ve/ & tr\s]s1 :ite l95 & :ite cravat 7a black cravat is p]missible1 b n 9 full dress47 ,= a d9n] p>ty1 ball or op]a1 a man mu/ we> a :ite cravat4 ,wat* fob is v fa%ionable4 ,on ,sunday aft]noons & ev5+ at home1 g5tlem5 are p]mitt$ to we> frock coats1 & to reg>d ! day z an (f "o1 unless invit$ to a gr& d9n]1 !n y mu/ we> ! dress suit4 ,m5 are always unglov$1 except :5 rid+ or driv+4 ,color$ %irts & flannel %irts are worn 9 ! morn+1 (t5 until ! d9n] h\r 9 ! summ]1 & x is prop] to g to an in=mal breakfa/ 9 ! in=mal dress ( ! t5nis gr\nd4 ,= a =mal lun*eon1 a man mu/ dress himself 9 black frock coat1 a color$ necktie1 & grey or drab /ripe tr\s]s1 & :ite %irt4 ,= lawn t5nis1--flannel %irts1 r\gh coats1 knick]bock]s1 long grey1 wool5 /ock+s1 & /r+ %oes4 ,simplicity1 neatness1 & fitness m>k ! g5tleman4 ,good clo!s1 mann]s1 bre$+1 & education1 admit "o to ! bett] circles ( society4 ,x is n suffici5t to d z o!rs d1 b we mu/ dress z !y d :5 we g out 9 ! _w4 ,he is be/ dress$1 ^: dress attracts lea/ att5tion1 & 9 ord] to attract att5tion1 "o's dress mu/ be seasonable1 appropriate1 & con=m to ! prevail+ fa%ion1 )\t go+ to extreme1 & to appe> com=table4 ,ev5+ ,dress3--,= all =mal ev5ts aft] six o'clock1 balls1 =mal d9n]s1 op]a & !at]1 receptions & w$d+s4 ,ov]coat--,*e/]field1 ,inv]ness1 or ,skirt$4 ,coat--,ev5+ dress coat4 ,wai/coat--,:ite or black1 s+le or d\ble brea/$4 ,ribb$ silk1 or fl[]$ patt]ns ( sat9 & silk4 ,tr\s]s--,to mat* coat1 outside seam trimm$ ) silk braid1 fitt+ a trifle clos] ov] ! hips ?an = ord9>y we>1 m$ium wid? knees & bottoms4 ,%irts & ,cuffs--,pla9 :ite1 ruffl$ or plait$ bosoms1 cord$ /ripes1 atta*$ cuffs1 dome/ic f9i%4 ,coll>s--,/&+1 ,poke or lap front4 ,neckwe>--,:ite cord$ /ripe or lawn1 /r+ ) broad r\nd ends4 ,gloves--,:ite or ,pe>l1 ,grey glace1 "o button1 self-/it*$4 ,jewelry--,pla9 or ,moon/one /uds1 & l9ks4 ,hat--,silk1 clo? b& or op]a = !at]4 ,%oes--,v>ni%$ calfsk9 or pat5t lea!r button tops or pat5t lea!r ties = balls4 ,/yle--,peak$ broad lapels1 roll+ to wai/ ) two buttons on ea* side1 natural %\ld]s1 *e/y effect4 ,mat]ial--,undress$ wor/$1 ,engli% twill or %ad[-/ripe1 9 black or d>k blue4 ,in=mal3--,ev5+ dress1 = all in=mal occasions1 club1 /ag1 & at home d9n]s1 !at]s & in=mal d9n]s4 ,coat--,ev5+ jacket1 ,tux$o4 ,wai/ coat--,to mat* coat1 dove grey2 black cord$ silk = w9t]1 :ite = summ]1 s+le or d\ble brea/$1 op5+ cut ,v %ap$4 ,tr\s]s--,to mat* coat4 ,%irts--,plait$1 or may be ( s(t or negligee /yle4 ,atta*$ cuffs1 dome/ic f9i%4 ,coll>s--,high b&1 fold or w+4 ,neckwe>--,/r+1 fancy figur$1 black or grey gr\nd ) black figures1 or to mat* mat]ial 9 wai/ coat1 knot drawn tight1 & wide ends4 ,gloves--,grey1 ,su$e1 or tan4 ,jewelry--,to mat* buttons ( wai/ coat1 dull *as$ gold /ud1 l9ks1 wat* fob & seal4 ,hat--,s(t or d]by4 ,%oes--,pat5t or enamel lea!r1 button tops1 or ties4 ,/yle--,*e/y effect1 %\ld]s trifle wid] ?an natural1 %awl coll> or peak$ lapels roll+ l[ & fronts well cut away bel[ bottom button4 ,mat]ial--,pla9 or /rip$ unf9i%$ wor/$1 black1 d>k1 blue or ,ox=d4 ,in=mal ,day ,dress3--,= ord9>y occasions1 be=e six o'clock & ,sundays4 ,ov]coat--,*e/]field4 ,coat--,morn+ or ,cutaway4 ,wai/ coat--,to mat* coat1 s+le or d\ble brea/$1 or quiet patt]n ( fancy ve/+s4 ,tr\s]s--,d>k n>r[ grey or light /ripe wor/$ or cassim]e4 ,%irts & ,cuffs--,pla9 :ite1 atta*$ cuffs4 ,coll>--,poke lap front or w+4 ,neckwe>--,ascot1 once ov] or f\r-9-h& 9 somb] effects4 ,gloves--,tan or grey4 ,jewelry--,gold l9ks & /uds1 sc>fp91 ) wat* gu>d4 ,hat--,high silk4 ,%oes--,v>ni%$ calfsk91 pat5t lea!r1 button tops & light color$ spats4 ,/yle--,*e/y1 effect1 oval lapels1 ) concave edge1 %\ld]s trifle wid] ?an natural1 & wadd+ on extreme po9ts1 to give squ>e effect2 roll l[4 ,mat]ial--,unf9i%$ wor/$1 diagonal or pla9 ,vicuna4 ,day ,dress3--,= all occasions1 be=e six o'clock2 aft]noon calls1 *ur*1 day w$d+s1 receptions1 & mat9ees4 ,ov]coat--,*e/]field4 ,coat--,morn+ frock1 = in=mal1 d\ble brea/$ frock or ,pr9ce ,alb]t = =mal occasions4 ,wai/ ,coat--,d\ble or s+le brea/$1 to mat* ! coat1 or quiet fancy ve/+1 avoid+ extremes4 ,tr\s]s--,d>k n>r[ /ripe wor/$1 mod]ately close fitt+ ) slight hip fullness4 ,%irt & ,cuffs--,pla9 :ite1 r\nd or squ>e corn]$1 atta*$ cuffs4 ,coll>--,poke1 lap front or w+4 ,neckwe>--,ascot1 black or :ite effect1 once ov]1 :ite or ,pe>l4 ,gloves--,br[n1 light tan1 self-figur$1 clos$ ) "o button4 ,jewelry--,gold l9ks1 & /uds1 gold wat* gu>d1 & sc>fp94 ,hat--,high silk1 clo? b&4 ,%oes--,v>ni%$ calfsk91 or pat5t lea!r1 button top ) light color$ spats4 ,/yle--,*e/y effect1 oval lapels1 ) small r\nd$ corn]s1 roll l[1 %\ld]s trifle wid] ?an natural1 rais+ extreme po9ts ) wadd+4 ,mat]ial--,unf9i%$ wor/$1 or diagonal1 9 black or ,ox=d4 ,morn+ & ,bus9ess ,dress3--,= g5]al we> dur+ bus9ess h\rs4 ,ov]coat--,*e/]field1 ,newm>ket1 ,cov]t or top coat4 ,coat--,sack or morn+4 ,wai/ ,coat--,s+le brea/$1 ) or )\t a coll>1 to mat* coat or fancy ve/+4 ,tr\s]s--,to mat* coat1 or /rip$ wor/$ or cassim]e ) morn+ coat4 ,%irts & ,cuffs--,:ite or color$ %irt1 /iff or s(t bosom1 atta*$ cuffs4 ,coll>s--,w+ or high b& turnd[n4 ,neckwe>--,once ov]1 ,ascot1 f\r-9-h& or ,imp]ial4 ,gloves--,tan or grey4 ,jewelry--,gold l9ks & /uds1 sc>fp9 & wat* gu>d4 ,hats--,d]by or ,alp9e ) sacks1 high silk or d]by ) morn+ coat4 ,%oes--,calfsk91 high or l[ cut4 ,/yle--,s+le or d\ble brea/$ = sacks1 *e/y a?letic effect1 two or ?ree buttons1 morn+ or ,engli% walk+ coat ) flaps on side4 ,mat]ial--,fancy suit+s = sacks4 ,pla9 or fancy weave = morn+ coats4 ,blue1 br[n or grey mixtures = sacks2 grey or ,ox=d = morn+ dress4 ,sea%ore & ,l\ng+ ,dress3--,= summ] we> only4 ,coat--,norfolk or l\nge coat4 ,belt--,pig or monkey sk94 ,tr\s]s--,to mat* coat or fancy /ripe flannel4 ,%irts--,color$ negligee1 cuffs atta*$1 ,madras or ,ox=d4 ,coll>--,fold coll>4 ,neckwe>--,f\r-9-h&1 or s(t silk tie4 ,jewelry--,sc>fp91 gold l9ks1 /ud buttons4 ,hats--,/raw1 ,alp9e or golf cap4 ,%oes--,l[ %oes ( calfsk94 ,/yle--,norfolk coat1 skeleton l9$1 s+le or d\ble brea/$ sack4 ,mat]ial--,tropical wor/$ or ,twe$1 flannel ,%etl& or homespun4 ,br[n1 grey & mixtures4 ,out+ ,dress3--,= golf & o!r sports3 ,ov]coats--,peajacket1 %ort ,cov]t or top coat4 ,coat--,norfolk jacket or l\nge coat4 ,wai/ ,coat--,d\ble brea/$1 ) or )\t coll>1 to mat* coat1 flannel or fancy knit4 ,tr\s]s--,knick]bock]s1 = fall & w9t]1 /rip$ flannel1 ,twe$ or homespun mat*+ coat = spr+ & summ]4 ,%irts--,color$ negligee1 cuffs atta*$1 ,madras or ,ox=d sweat]4 ,coll>--,s(t fold1 self-coll> or /ock4 ,neckwe>--,tie or /ock4 ,gloves--,tan or *amois1 wool knit1 heavy golf+ gloves4 ,jewelry--,sc>fp91 l9ks1 ) wat* gu>d4 ,hat--,s(t felt or cap4 ,%oes--,calf or russet4 ,/yle--,norfolk ) box plaits1 yoke & belt or pla9 sack1 *e/y effect4 ,mat]ial--,twe$s1 flannel1 or homespun1 br[n1 grey & mixtures4 ,driv+ or ,motor+ ,dress3 ,ov]coat--,burb]ry ( wax wat]pro( clo?1 or du/] ( l95 or rubb] silk4 ,coat--,norfolk or d\ble brea/$ sack4 ,wai/ ,coat--,mat*+ coat1 flannel or fancy knit4 ,tr\s]s--,knick]bock]s or tr\s]s ( flannel1 ,twe$ or homespun1 mat*+ coat2 bree*es & legg+s = motor+4 ,%irts--,fancy flannel4 ,*eviot or ,madras sweat]1 s(t4 ,coll>--,s(t fold self-coll> or /ock4 ,neckwe>--,/ock or tie4 ,gloves--,tan or *amois1 s(t cape gauntlets1 tan or black = ! motor c>4 ,jewelry--,l9ks1 sc>fp9 & wat* gu>d4 ,hat--,s(t felt or cap1 ,fr5* *auffeur cap ) lea!r visor = motor+4 ,%oes--,calfsk9 or russet ) legg9s = automobil+4 ,/yle--,semi-,norfolk jacket ( wax 7wat]pro(7 clo?4 ,mat]ial--,twe$1 flannel or homespun1 ,ox=d1 grey or tan4 ,wom5's ,dress3 ,=mal dress1 = all occasions aft] six o'clock--w$d+s1 receptions1 =mal d9n]s1 !at] & balls1 high neck1 long skirt1 hat1 coat1 & gloves1 & ev5+ slipp]s4 ,= morn+ & aft]noon we>1 ! tailor made suit ) %ort skirt2 = aft]noon1 ! long skirt1 hat1 high dress walk+ boot1 pat5t lea!r1 lace or button ) clo? tops4 ,= out+ we>1 ! coat sweat] = skat+1 golf+1 & hockey4 ,= misses' & *ildr5's dresses made ( ! same mat]ial1 %ort skirts2 ! coats may cov] ! dress1 or may be ?ree-qu>t]s or sev5-eigh?s long1 may be s+le or d\ble brea/$1 to button high ar\nd ! neck or roll l[4 ,= h\se we>1 ! pla9 tailor$ %irt wai/ suit 9 becom+ colors are good =m4 ,= s*ool & /reet we>1 ! %ort skirt1 coat ?ree-qu>t]s or sev5-eigh?s long & made ( r\gh mat]ial is ! m /yli%1 & is made 9 a v>iety ( /yles4 ,gloves = ev5+ we>1 ,su$e1 ,m\squetaire1 elb[ & above2 l5g? arrang+ 9 buttons f eight to tw5ty-f\r4 ,9 tan1 mode1 slate1 pe>l1 lav5d]1 yell[1 black1 & :ite4 ,walk+ gloves1 ,havana1 ,smyrna1 tan1 oak & mahogany1 ) two or ?ree buttons1 clasps4 ,auto gauntlets1 buck & cape sk9 gauntlets 9 slate1 oak & black4 ,= automobil+1 d\ble & s+le brea/$ long loose coats1 made 9 a v>iety ( /yles1 wat] & du/ pro(1 pla9 or fancy trimm$1 ) w9d cuffs inside ( sleeves1 ) velvet coll>s & cuffs4 ,mat]ial us$ are rubb] fac$ goods1 ,mohairs1 ,*ambrays1 ,sat9s1 ,ox=ds & ,tan plaids1 *angeable silks & ,crepe de ,*9es4 ,:5 select+ goods = dresses or jackets1 be> 9 m9d t /ripes l5g!n1 plaids1 *ecks & light mat]ials broad51 & enl>ge ! p]son's appe>ance4 ,boys' & y\?s' clo?+ f f\r to eighte54 ,! mat]ials us$ = boys' suits1 include all ! /aple clo?s1 su* z unf9i%$ wor/$s 9 /ripes & plaids1 twe$s1 d>k & blue s]ge1 pla9 *eviots1 & ,scot* mixtures1 homespun & corduroy4 ,! sailor suit is m suitable = ! y\ng] boy1 & may be made ( v>i\s mat]ials1 su* z :ite1 blue1 & br[n s]ge or *eviot1 & trimm$ ) braid 9 a v>iety ( /yles1 z occasion require & surr\nd+s p]mit4 ,! mo/ favorite /yle = ! boy :o has outgr[n ! sailor suit1 is ! ,norfolk coat1 s+le or d\ble brea/$1 ) d\ble or s+le box plaits1 made ) or )\t /raight or po9t$ yoke4 ,! next 9 popul>ity1 comes ! d\ble or s+le brea/$ sack coat2 ) ?is & ! above1 bloom]s may be worn1 f9i%$ at ! knee ) a buckl$ b&4 ,! /raight tr\s]s are mu* worn & pref]r$ by "s boys1 & are consid]$ m dressy :5 worn ) a plait$ skirt bosom ) atta*$ cuffs1 po9t$ ,eaton coll>1 & a n>r[ f\r-9-h& sc>f & pat5t or dull lea!r %oes4 ,= e day we>1 ! pla9 negligee %irt ) yoke back & atta*$ cuffs are worn4 ,) ?is /yle %irt1 ! y\ng] boys f eight to twelve1 we> ! /iff l95 or s(t :ite pique1 ,eaton coll> ) r\nd or squ>e corn]s1 or a turn d[n coll> ( :i* ! latt] is mo/ popul>4 ,! ,w9dsor b[ or ! n>r[ f\r-9-h& sc>f may be worn ) ! ,eaton coll>4 ,= out+1 a s(t flannel negligee /yle made p]fectly pla91 ) /raight atta*$ or ! new turn back cuffs1 a s(t turn d[n coll> atta*$ to ! %irt is pref]r$ by "s1 :ile o!rs we> ! sep>ate l95 coll>1 & h ! neck b& f9i%$ pla94 ,?is /yle ( :ite turnd[n coll> may be worn on all occasions until ! age ( eighte51 at :i* "t1 he may we> almo/ any /yle on ! matur] man1 provid+ 8 size w p]mit4 ,! plait$ %irt bosom is ! m dressy /yle1 & may be ( :ite or light colors1 ) /ripes & figures or 9 solid colors4 ,"y boys d n we> atta*$ cuffs until !y are twelve ye>s old1 & only !n if full gr[n4 ,= small p>ties1 danc+ classes or w$d+s1 a boy "u sixte5 may we> a d>k blue s]ge d\ble brea/$ sack suit or ! ,norfolk /yle ) bloom]s or /raight tr\s]s4 ,a pla9 :ite or f9ely /rip$ :ite plait$ %irt ) turn-ov] coll> & d>k n>r[ f\r-9-h& sc>f is 9 good ta/e ) dull lea!r or pat5t lea!r ,ox=ds4 ,boys' ov]g>m5ts3--,= boys up to twelve1 we> ! /raight d\ble brea/$ box ov]coat2 = ! old] boy1 !y may be semi-fitt+ & slightly tap]+ at ! wai/1 & m$ium l5g?2 /orm coats are v long & mu* box1 ! mat]ials include fancy ,twe$s1 ,diagonals1 ,*eviots1 ,beav] & ,k]seys4 ,at ! age ( fifte5 or sixte51 a boy w require a m di/9ctive type ( ev5+ dress1 & = ^!1 ! ,tux$o or ,d9n] ,coat is mo/ recomm5d$4 ,! ,tux$o or ,d9n] ,suit may be made ( unf9i%$ wor/$1 diagonal1 twills1 9 black or d>k blue1 ) po9t$ lapels or %awn coll>1 silk or sat9 fac$ to ! edge1 & f9i%$ ) "o button4 ,a black or grey ve/ may be worn ) black tie1 b if ! occasion be v =mal1 a :ite ve/ & :ite tie may be sub/itut$1 ) pat5t lea!r pumps4 ,aft] a boy has rea*$ ! age ( eighte5 or n9ete51 he may adopt ! /yles ( m5 9 sc>fs1 wai/ coats1 ev5+ clo!s1 gloves1 etc4 ,,lesson ,,xii4 ,,bus9ess ,,etiquette4 ,bus9ess etiquette4 ,y\r duty to y\r cu/om] requires y to treat !m ) respect1 to d ! "w to ! be/ ( y\r ability1 to give !m ! be/ "w ( y\r head & h&s1 & to treat y\r cu/om]s ) polit5ess to %[ a disposition to please & be a lady or g5tleman at all times4 ,be indep5d5t1 b n imp]t95t4 ,d y\r be/ to please y\r cu/om]s4 ,nev] promise to h g>m5ts f9i%$ at a giv5 "t unless y int5d to h !m f9i%$ at ! "t promis$1 & nev] disappo9t a cu/om] if x c possibly be avoid$4 ,nev] misrepres5t4 ,a reputation = integrity is ( almo/ or q z mu* value 9 y\r bus9ess z a reputation = skill & ta/e4 ,y\r mo/ valuable cu/om]s are ref9$ ladies & g5tlem52 y w d well !re=e to be> 9 m9d t g5tlem5 love g5tlem54 ,d n brea! 9 a cu/om]'s face4 ,dress well1 & let y\r l95 be clean2 y\r g>m5ts kept well clean$1 press$ & repair$4 ,y\r appe>ance is a "p ( y\r capital 9 ! way ( gett+ bus9ess4 ,:5 y h g>m5ts t h be5 ready = cu/om]s "o mon?1 notify !m1 say+ t y w hold !m = ?irty days long]4 ,say t 9 ! meantime y wi% !y w\ld call = !m4 ,ev]y?+ = ! clean+1 repair+ & press+ ( clo!s may be _h at ?is (fice4 ,s5d samples or explanation ( :at is requir$ & price li/ w be =w>d$ to any address4 ,^! goods are sold at ! l[e/ possible m>g9 ( pr(it = h&l+ same1 & only to ^? ( our /ud5ts :o h b\ght ! me?od4 ,! foll[+ is a p>tial li/ ( :at may be _h3 ,press-jacks1 tables1 irons1 sponge clo?s prep>$1 bru%es1 scissors1 sew+ ma*9es1 mirrors1 desks1 *airs1 coat1 ve/1 tr\s]1 jacket1 & skirt hang]s1 racks to hang clo!s on1 *alk1 ne$les1 ?imbles1 tape measures1 ba/+ cotton1 l95 ?read1 silk ?read1 buttonhole twi/1 buttons = coats1 ve/s & tr\s]s to mat* clo?4 ,sleeve l9+s = und]coats1 ve/s1 ov]coats1 wai/ b& l9+ = tr\s]s1 = ladies' jackets & coats4 ,all k9ds ( silk & sat9s = body l9+s1 heavy silk fac+s1 = ,tux$os1 ,pr9ce ,alb]ts1 & dress coats2 velvet coll>s1 any size1 silesias1 sate5s1 rubb] tissue1 buckles1 hairclo?1 canvas1 beeswax1 clean+ fluids1 mo? prev5tative1 & any?+ us$ by ! clean] & press]4 99 99 99 99 99 ,transcrib]'s ,note3 99 ,app>5t spell+ & pr9t]'s errors normalis$4 99 ,text enclos$ betwe5 equal signs 0 9 bold face 9 ! orig9al 7bold74 99 ,index _h entries = pages #bj & #ba 7includ+ page numb]s7 rev]s$ 9 ! orig9al4