,illustration ,the ,copeland ,,method ,illustration ,,index4 ,,page ,equipment #c ,tools ,required and their ,use #c ,formula for ,cleaning ,fluid #f ,formula1 how to make #g ,formula for ,moth ,preventative #g ,how to ,use ,cleaning ,fluids #g ,how to ,prepare ,garments to be ,cleaned #g ,how to ,clean ,garments #h ,to ,remove ,stains1 etc4 #ac ,repairing #ad ,darning a ,three-,cornered ,tear #bj ,alterations #ba ,pressing #bh ,how to ,clean ,cutaway1 ,prince ,albert1 ,military and other ,uniforms #cc ,how to ,clean and ,press ,ladies' ,jackets1 etc4 #cc ,selection of ,materials1 etc4 #cg ,care of ,clothes #ch ,folding of ,clothes #db ,testing ,goods #dc ,price ,list for ,cleaning and ,pressing #dd ,how to ,dress and ,what to ,wear #de ,business ,etiquette #ee ,the ,copeland ,,method ,a ,complete ,manual for ,cleaning1 ,repairing1 ,altering and ,pressing all kinds of ,garments for ,men and ,women1 at home or for business4 ,copyrighted #aijh4 ,,by ,,vanness ,,copeland1 ,,buffalo1 ,n4 ,y4 ,,introductory4 ,high birth and good breeding are the privileges of the few2 but the habits of a gentleman may be acquired by any man4 ,neatness is not an art requiring the study of a life time2 on the contrary it's principles are simple1 and their practical application involves only ordinary care4 ,to gain the good opinion of those who surround us is the first interest and the second duty of men in every profession of life4 ,first impressions are apt to be permanent2 it is therefore of importance that they should be favorable4 ,frequently the dress of an individual is that circumstance from which you first form your opinion4 ,it is even more prominent than manner4 ,it is indeed one of the first things noticed in a casual encounter or during the first interview4 ,chesterfield has said that ,he could not help conceiving some idea of the people's sense and character from the appearance of their dress which they appeared when first introduced to him4 ,in the preparation of this book1 it has been the aim of the maker to give in a concise form1 all that is properly embraced in a comprehensive work on not only keeping our wardrobes in such a state as to cause us to appear to the best advantage1 but also to give a complete instruction in the manipulation of garments and tools used in the process of properly cleaning1 pressing and repairing all kinds of garments for men and women4 ,a few hints may be helpful to the beginner as well as to those in the business4 ,observe a well dressed man or woman on the street or elsewhere1 note the make up and fitting points of their garments1 this will help the student to know good work1 and try to do as well when doing the work himself4 ,when learning the method of cleaning1 repairing and pressing all kinds of garments for men and women1 it is a good idea1 if possible1 to have a garment of the same sort as one is studying close at hand1 following closely the instructions over all parts of the garment2 thereby understanding the teachings better and become more familiar with the work4 ,should a garment need repairing of any kind or a button sewed on1 do it and charge accordingly4 ,never give a customer clothes that are damp from pressing1 allow them to dry before wearing or delivering4 ,,lesson ,i4 ,,equipment4 ,introduction3 ,a few hints to the beginner as well as to those now in the business4 ,the tools required and the best method of using same1 for work at home or for business4 ,,tools ,,required ,,and ,,their ,,use3 ,the tools required for cleaning1 repairing and pressing at home1 or for business are as follows3 ,for work at home1 use an ordinary kitchen table with smooth top4 ,for use in business1 a table eight feet long1 three feet wide and thirty inches high 7or as high as is convenient for the presser1 this may be easily determined by using74 ,this is called a tailor's bench4 ,the balance of the tools are the same for work at home or for business4 ,the kitchen table or tailor's bench may be used for several purposes2 the first of which is to place the iron1 press-jack1 sponge cloth1 and garment while cleaning and pressing4 ,also for men to sit on while sewing4 ,,the ,,iron4 ,one may use an ordinary laundry iron 7but would advise the purchase of a solid iron or tailor's goose1 weighing from fourteen to twenty-two pounds1 or according to one's strength71 one may heat the iron on a coal range1 gas or oil stove2 or one may use a gas or electric iron1 which are being used with great satisfaction1 and are easily handled1 being of little trouble to operate1 also doing the work well4 ,however1 it is best to use whatever one considers most convenient1 cheapest and best for the locality in which one resides4 ,the iron is heated and placed on the iron rest1 which has been placed on the table for that purpose1 to the right of the presser1 and is applied to the sponge cloth 7that has been wrung out almost dry71 causing steam to penetrate that part of the garment being pressed1 thereby refreshing the cloth4 ,the presser should have control of the iron at all times1 also see that the iron is not too hot before using by testing it on a piece of light colored woolen material4 ,if it scorches it is too hot for use1 wait for a few minutes to cool4 ,when pressing move the iron from place to place1 on the part to be pressed1 by lifting it clear each time1 instead of shoving it along as some do4 7,to shove the iron along on the work is apt to stretch garments where not required1 and also cause wrinkles74 ,keep the face of iron smooth by rubbing wax over the surface frequently1 thereby removing any lint or dirt that may accumulate from time to time4 ,,the ,,press-,,jack4 ,a press-jack such as the tailors use1 is made of two hardwood boards1 thirty-five inches long1 one inch thick1 planed both sides and edges and cut egg-shape2 the wide end being eight inches in width1 and the narrow or small end1 four inches wide1 one forming the top and the other the bottom4 ,between the top and bottom are screwed two blocks of solid wood1 four by four inches1 and six inches high4 ,the first one is screwed to the top and bottom1 three inches from the large end1 and the second block is screwed to the top and bottom1 seven inches from the large end1 thereby leaving a space to the small end1 of twenty-eight inches1 for convenience in handling the garments while pressing4 ,the top of the press-jack is left perfectly plain and smooth2 the bottom1 however1 is padded for convenience for pressing with ten-ply of wadding1 cut the same shape of board or bottom of press-jack4 ,over this place a piece of white heavy drilling1 drawn tight over the wadding to keep in place and tacked all around the edges with brass head tacks4 ,cut cotton off evenly around the edges beyond the tacks4 ,this completes the press-jack and is ready for use4 ,the press-jack as tailors term it1 is used for the pressing of clothes1 and is also useful to lay clothes on while cleaning4 ,,the ,,brush4 ,a brush with a plain back and handle4 7,never use a whisk broom to brush clothes as it injures the fibre of the cloth47 ,the brush is used to brush garments thoroughly before cleaning and is used in connection with the pressing of garments1 to slap with the back the part pressed1 thereby keeping the steam in1 and making the cloth sweat4 ,the face to brush the nap of cloth1 thereby refreshing the garment1 making it look like new4 ,,the ,,sponge ,,cloth4 ,a sponge cloth is made of heavy unbleached cotton1 one yard and a half long1 boiled in soap and water for one hour1 then rinse in clean water1 thus removing the lint4 ,the sponge cloth should be dipped in warm water1 and wrung out almost dry by hand1 7or one may use a clothes wringer if preferred7 thereby keeping it clean and free from grease and dirt that may stick to it from time to time4 ,the sponge cloth is used to lay over the woolen press cloth that has been placed over that part of the garment to be pressed1 also it is the cloth which is to be dampened and when iron is applied causes steam to be forced into the garment thereby instilling new life into the cloth as it were4 ,,the ,,under ,,woolen ,,press ,,cloth4 ,is made of a piece of plain light colored unfinished or finished worsted one yard long and eighteen inches wide4 ,place this under woolen press cloth over that part of garment to be pressed1 then lay the sponge cloth on top of this1 and apply the iron4 ,by using these two press cloths together1 prevents glossing the garment to a great extent1 and may be used when pressing all kinds of garments for men and women4 ,,coat ,,and ,,trouser ,,hangers1 ,,etc4 ,coat and trouser hangers are used to place the several garments on to retain their shape after cleaning and pressing4 ,they are also very essential in the home to place garments on that are not in use or being worn1 it is better to place garments on forms than to hang up by loops that are placed on garments by tailors4 ,other necessities used in the cleaning1 repairing and pressing of garments1 are the sponge1 tape measure1 scissors1 tailor's chalk1 needles1 thimble1 bodkin for pulling bastings1 a sewing machine1 a large mirror1 fashion plates1 chairs1 desk and safe1 if one wishes4 ,afterward one may add as many tools as necessity requires and their business permits4 ,,lesson ,,ii4 ,,cleaning4 ,consists of several formulas for making ,standard cleaning fluids1 and the best method of using same1 in the cleaning of all kinds of garments4 ,how to prepare garments to be cleaned4 ,how to steam clean4 ,how to dry clean4 ,the secret of success in cleaning4 ,to clean velvet and velveteen4 ,to remove paint1 tar1 grease and ink from garments4 ,how to wash woolens4 ,how to wash black woolen dresses4 ,how to clean silk1 satin and lace4 ,to remove grease from delicate fabrics4 ,to remove stains from linen and cotton goods4 ,a formula for making moth preventative4 ,,cleaning ,,fluid4 7,formula47 #b ounces ,chloroform4 #c ounces ,wood ,alcohol4 #b ounces ,sulphur ,ether4 #b ounces ,spirit of ,wine4 #aj ounces ,ammonia4 #c ounces ,oil of ,turpentine4 #b ounces ,glycerine4 ,place all seven chemicals in one bottle4 #c ounces ,borax4 #c ounces ,french ,castile ,soap4 ,,directions ,,to ,,mix3 ,cut the ,french ,castile ,soap in fine shavings1 dissolve them together with the ,borax1 in four quarts of boiling water1 cool this solution1 being careful that all the soap is dissolved1 then strain through muslin or thin woolen cloth1 to remove any sediment4 ,then add the other seven chemicals1 mix and shake well4 ,this will make five quarts ,cleaning ,fluid4 ,this cleaning fluid may be used on any garment with good results1 as it will not injure the fibre of the cloth4 ,always rinse spot good with clean water and sponge1 after using cleaning fluids4 ,,how ,,to ,,prepare ,a ,,simple ,,cleaning ,,fluid4 7,formula47 #d ounces ,ammonia4 #d ounces ,bay ,rum4 #a-f ounce ,salt ,peter4 ,to this add one pint of clean water1 pour in a small neck bottle1 keep well corked to avoid evaporating4 ,this preparation will remove fresh or hard paint1 tar1 grease1 oil and in fact any spots from clothing1 dress goods1 carpets1 rugs1 and all woolen goods without injury to the fabric4 ,the above may be obtained at any drug store4 ,,how ,,to ,,prepare ,,moth ,,preventative4 7,formula47 #d ounces ,powder ,borax4 #d ounces ,powder ,alum4 #d ounces ,powder ,camphor4 ,mix all three chemicals together thoroughly4 ,this will make a white powder4 ,sprinkle freely around and under carpets before laying1 also over clothing not in use4 ,this powder will not leave a stain1 and is easily brushed off4 ,use freely wherever moths appear4 ,,how ,,to ,,use ,,the ,,cleaning ,,fluids4 ,dampen a sponge or woolen cloth 7white flannel is the best as there is no color to come out7 by dipping it in the cleaning fluid1 which has been poured into a basin for that purpose and convenience4 ,rub the spot to be cleaned with the dampened sponge1 woolen cloth 7or flannel7 with the thread or nap of the cloth until the grease and dirt is loosened1 then rinse with clean water1 7always rinse sponge1 cloth or flannel in clean water before cleaning the stain a second time with pure water7 until stain entirely disappears4 ,always clean garments before repairing or relining4 ,,how ,,to ,,prepare ,,garments ,,to ,,be ,,cleaned4 ,turn all pockets inside out4 ,brush thoroughly and whip with cane if necessary1 being careful not to break the buttons on the garment4 ,see that the dust and dirt is thoroughly removed from the pockets1 then return pockets to their place4 ,this is a very important part and one which is very often neglected and overlooked4 ,the garment is then ready to be cleaned4 ,proceed as above explained4 ,if one application is not sufficient to remove the spots1 repeat until spots are thoroughly removed4 ,coats are usually very dirty and greasy around the collar also down the fronts1 great care should be taken to clean thoroughly and rinse often1 thereby removing all stains4 ,all coats1 vests1 trousers1 overcoats1 ladies' jackets1 coats1 waists1 and all kinds of skirts should be cleaned by this same method4 ,,how ,,to ,,steam ,,clean4 ,to steam clean coats1 vests1 trousers1 overcoats1 ladies jackets and skirts and all wool garments3 ,place each garment in a basin of warm water first1 and with soap and a brush go over the entire garment thoroughly1 including sleeve lining4 ,second--pour water off and fill basin again with warmer water than at first1 and wash with stiff brush and soap as before1 using three waters or until garment is thoroughly cleaned4 ,remove soap water 7do not wring garments but allow to drip1 or squeeze water out7 and rinse in hot water1 then warm1 then cooler1 and so on until cold1 adding one tablespoonful of coarse salt4 7,dissolve salt in cold water before placing in basin74 ,this will prevent garment from shrinking4 ,place on hanger to retain their shape1 allowing water to drip out4 ,straighten out wrinkles as much as possible when drying1 thus making the pressing easier1 and when thoroughly dry1 proceed to press as explained4 ,if any spots remain after this process1 remove with ammonia4 ,for those who perspire under the arms freely1 dress shields placed in the bottom of the arm holes of coats will be of great benefit4 ,,how ,,to ,,dry ,,clean4 ,use a basin large enough to hold one gallon of gasolene and the garment to be cleaned4 7,being careful to keep gasolene away from the stove or a lighted candle1 lamp1 or gas47 ,place one gallon of gasolene in the basin with the coat1 and swash up and down until all grease and dirt has been loosened1 then place on hangers in the open air1 allowing to dry and gasolene to evaporate4 ,before dipping the coat in the basin1 see that all dust and dirt is removed from the pockets by turning them inside out and brushing1 also brush all seams4 ,use half a gallon for the vest1 and one gallon for the trousers4 ,the more gasolene used1 the better will be the results4 ,gasolene may be used a second time on black goods1 after filtering or settling1 but never on light colored materials1 ladies' jackets1 coats1 wool waists1 and skirts may be cleaned in the same way4 ,gasolene1 benzine1 naptha1 turpentine and ammonia should be of the best and purest1 when used for cleaning purposes4 ,the secret of success in cleaning1 is by dipping the garment in a large quantity of the liquid4 ,not less than a gallon of gasolene1 benzine or naptha should be used for a coat1 jacket or skirt4 ,two gallons will do the work better4 ,one should remove all spots if possible before dipping in the liquid4 ,it is a good idea to surround each spot with a basting thread as when wet1 some spots do not show4 ,soak each garment in the clear liquid1 then soap all spots thoroughly1 rub gently between the hands until spots disappear4 ,then wash and rinse garment in clear liquid4 ,place on hangers in the open air1 or drying room1 allowing odor to pass away4 ,soap may be used for cleaning in connection with gasolene with good results4 ,one may use a little ammonia with the gasolene and soap4 ,the goods should be well shaken1 and pull all folds out straight with the threads of the goods4 ,velveteen1 velvet and corduroy may be cleaned with gasolene1 when pile or nap is not much worn4 ,when cleaning velvet1 or any other fabric1 the most important part is to have all the dust and dirt removed1 by brushing the garment or fabric thoroughly4 ,to clean a velvet collar that is not too greasy1 and the nap not worn off3 ,wet a piece of woolen cloth or flannel in gasolene and rub lightly1 until the grease and dirt is loosened4 ,then apply more gasolene with a clean woolen cloth1 and remove all grease and dirt4 ,place on hanger in the open air to dry and to evaporate before steaming4 ,when much gasolene is used hang coat so that the collar hangs down1 to allow the gasolene to drip out and evaporate1 before steaming4 ,always being careful not to use gasolene near a stove1 lighted candle1 lamp or gas4 ,when using gasolene for cleaning purposes1 have it in a gasolene or benzine safety can1 used for that purpose1 which may be had at any hardware store4 ,to remove old hard paint or tar1 apply the cleaning fluid freely and place the sponge cloth over spot and press with the iron1 as there is nothing that will loosen paint or tar as well as steam or heat4 ,if one application is not sufficient repeat until loosened1 then scrape off2 after that use more cleaning fluid to remove any stains that may remain1 then rinse in clean water4 ,to remove ink stains from woolen materials3 ,apply cleaning fluid1 two or three times1 washing spots each time with clean water1 and sponge until stain disappears4 ,,how ,,to ,,wash ,,woolens4 ,place four ounces of soap bark in a gallon of water in a kettle on a stove to boil1 then add two more gallons of water4 ,throw this over the goods1 that has been placed in another basin for that purpose and rub with the hands4 ,rinse in warm water1 and hang up to dry4 ,iron on the wrong side when damp1 until dry1 7this will remove all wrinkles and make goods look like new74 ,this is especially good for worn garments1 that are to be cut and made over4 ,woolens should be squeezed1 and not wrung1 and the wrinkles straightened out while drying4 ,,how ,,to ,,wash ,,black ,,woolen ,,dresses4 ,have the dress ripped apart1 brushed1 and all dust and dirt removed from the seams1 also all the old stitches4 ,pour four gallons of water in a pail or basin1 adding four ounces of ammonia4 ,dip each piece of the garment into the liquid1 and swash up and down1 and squeeze as dry as possible1 then hang over a pole1 and when almost dry1 iron from the wrong side until dry1 with an iron not too hot4 ,woolen dresses1 that are much soiled1 may be washed in soap and water1 and rinsed out before dipping in the ammonia water1 which will improve the color to a great extent4 ,any material1 such as worsted1 and wool garments should be sponged with ammonia and water4 ,when cleaning with gasolene1 benzine or naptha1 to remove the odor1 the article should be placed as near a steam radiator as possible1 or in a drying room heated by steam or otherwise1 this removes the odor1 the steam heat dries out whatever of the fluid may have remained in the material1 and does so without the danger of explosion which makes it impossible to dry a garment cleaned with the above near a lighted stove1 lamp1 candle or gas4 ,,how ,,to ,,wash ,,chamois ,,vests4 ,wash with white soap and warm water1 making a good lather and rubbing well between the hands4 ,lay flat on a table1 and rub with a dry1 clean cloth2 rinse2 then roll in another cloth and wring as dry as possible4 ,unroll and stretch well2 hang up1 and when nearly dry press with a warm iron1 being careful not to have the iron too hot or it will spoil the chamois4 ,,how ,,to ,,clean ,,silk4 ,use hot gasolene1 heated in a double boiler 7never put gasolene on a stove7 place the gasolene in the double boiler1 after it has been removed from the stove and while the water is still boiling1 place the silk to be cleaned in the boiler1 and swash up and down until it is thoroughly cleaned1 then remove and place in the open air to dry and evaporate4 ,,to ,,clean ,,black ,,silk4 ,brush and wipe with flannel cloth1 lay on a table with the side to be worn up2 then sponge with hot coffee 7strain coffee through muslin before using74 ,when damp1 lay cloth on and iron until thoroughly dry4 ,,to ,,remove ,,grease ,,from ,,silk4 ,use a lump of magnesia 7moistened71 rub on the spot and allow to dry2 then brush powder off4 ,repeat if necessary4 ,silks and satins should be sponged with ammonia and water4 ,it is not necessary to soak ribbon1 unless they are very dirty4 ,only black material should be cleaned with strong ammonia as a difference in the dye stuffs may cause the material to turn red1 wherever the ammonia touches it4 ,to clean a colored silk dress1 mix together four ounces of soap1 six ounces of honey1 and a pint and a quarter of gin1 rub in well with small brush1 rinse each piece at once in cold water thoroughly1 drain and iron while wet4 ,this is especially good for black1 also black and white silks4 ,silks may be stiffened by adding two or three lumps of sugar1 or half a teaspoonful of gum ,arabic to the water4 ,place over a round pole and while damp place a piece of muslin over the silk and iron until dry4 ,,to ,,clean ,,black ,,lace4 ,to a cup of strong tea1 add one-half teaspoonful of gum ,arabic4 ,dip the lace into the liquid1 and squeeze it dry1 two or three times 7do not wring74 ,roll in a cloth and when almost dry1 straighten out all the scallops carefully by hand1 being careful to have it of universal width1 and place on a soft cloth or padded board and lay a piece of muslin over it1 then iron until dry4 ,this is suitable for ordinary lace4 ,but real lace should be pinned or tacked to a board1 being careful to draw out all loops of the edge1 and not drag the lace out of shape4 ,all stains and spots should be removed as soon as possible4 ,ink stains may be taken out of clothing by dipping the spot in milk1 and squeezing the blackened milk into a basin1 dipping in clear milk again4 ,repeat this process until the ink stain has entirely disappeared2 then wash the cloth in warm water1 to remove the fat in the milk4 ,some inks are very difficult to remove but with a little patience1 one of the processes will remove any ink stain4 ,to remove grease spots from delicate fabrics1 requires great care4 ,when the color and fabric will not be injured1 use the cleaning fluid4 ,otherwise use ,french chalk or magnesia powder4 ,place upon the spots1 allow to remain for a short time4 ,this will often absorb the grease4 ,if one application is not sufficient1 brush off and apply again until the spot disappears4 ,when water may be used on the cloth1 the chalk may be made into a paste and spread on the spot and left until dry then brush off4 ,when color of a piece of goods has been accidentally or otherwise destroyed by acid4 ,apply ammonia to neutralize the same after which an application of chloroform will in almost every case restore the spot to its original color4 ,,to ,,remove ,,stains ,,from ,,cotton ,,and ,,linen ,,goods4 ,to remove stains from linen and cotton1 wet spots with luke warm water1 then squeeze the juice of a lemon over the stain1 sprinkle with salt1 then place in the sun to hasten bleaching4 ,if one application is not sufficient to remove the stains1 repeat until thoroughly cleaned4 ,to remove scorch from cotton1 place in the hot sun until scorch disappears4 ,to remove machine oil from white linen1 cotton1 or light goods4 ,rub with pure white lard1 then wash with warm water and soap4 ,to remove iron rust4--,dip in medium strong solution of oxalic acid1 then hold over the spout of a boiling tea kettle4 ,rinse the spot in two or three waters1 then wash in the usual way4 ,to remove ,fruit and ,berry ,stains4--,place spot over a bowl and pour boiling water through the cloth until stain disappears4 ,to remove ,mildew4--,rub soap on the damaged article then salt and starch on that2 rub well in and place in the sun until spots entirely disappear4 ,fruit1 ink1 blood and other stains should be removed before the clothes are wet in the laundry4 ,tea1 coffee1 wine and most fruit stains1 can be taken out with clear boiling water1 by stretching the stained portions over a bowl and pouring hot water through4 ,if they do not come out1 use a solution of borax1 ammonia and chloride of lime1 or burn some sulphur and hold the stains over the fumes4 ,fresh ink stains may be removed by an application of dampened salt1 allow to remain for several hours1 or soak in warm milk or vinegar and water4 ,lemon juice and salt placed on the spots will often suffice4 ,grass stains are most difficult to remove4 ,dip the spots in molasses2 let it remain until thoroughly saturated1 then wash out in clean water4 ,repeat if necessary4 ,mud ,stains--,may be removed by soaking spots in a solution of oxalic acid4 ,rinse in several waters2 then in ammonia and water last4 ,cocoa stains may be removed by sprinkling borax over the spot4 ,then soak in cold water1 and pour on boiling water4 ,obstinate blood stains--,should be saturated in kerosene1 then rubbed with soap and washed in luke warm water4 ,to prevent muslin from fading--,use a weak solution of sugar of lead4 ,,lesson ,,iii4 ,,repairing4 ,in this lesson is explained how to repair and reline coats1 vests1 trousers1 overcoats1 ,tuxedos1 ,dress ,coats1 ,vests1 ,prince ,alberts1 also ,ladies' ,jackets and ,coats4 ,how to put new ,silk facings on coats4 ,how to repair sleeves that are worn out around the bottom4 ,how to put velvet collars on coats4 ,the use of basting thread4 ,how to prevent trousers bagging at the knee4 ,how to prepare button holes for working4 ,how to make button holes4 ,darning a three-cornered tear4 ,hems and felling same4 ,back stitching4 ,,instructions ,,in ,,repairing4 ,to reline all kinds of coats and jackets for men and women4 ,when new lining is required in coats1 rip out the old lining1 starting to rip the sleeve lining1 first around top or sleeve head1 then at the bottom or cuff4 ,now remove the whole lining and rip apart and iron out smooth and use as a pattern for the new1 cutting new lining out exactly same size as the pattern1 down the seams1 but for convenience in working1 allow two seams longer at the bottom and two seams longer at the top4 ,place one top and one bottom sleeve lining together1 ,baste seams1 having the two right sides of lining together1 and seam on machine1 7or one may sew the seams on the machine without basting1 this may be done with a little practice71 press seams open on small end of press-jack1 baste top of sleeve lining in2 all around1 one-quarter of an inch1 now turn right sleeve inside out and baste right sleeve lining in by fastening the back seam of the sleeve lining to that of the back sleeve seam of coat1 baste with long loose stitches1 start basting two inches below top of sleeve1 to two inches within the bottom1 being careful not to get lining in too short 7take one quarter inch seam when sewing on machine71 as this will cause sleeve to draw up1 and hang in wrinkles1 now fasten the front arm seams same as back1 so that each seam will come directly on top of the sleeve seam4 ,turn sleeve right side out1 and mark with chalk on lining of coat at each sleeve seam and baste sleeve seams at top of sleeve lining to correspond with the sleeve seams of garment1 and baste lining all around until one becomes familiar with the work4 ,now see that the lining is sufficiently long2 cut lining off even with the bottom of the cuff1 and baste sleeve lining up two inches from the bottom4 ,then with needle and silk fell around both sleeves1 top and bottom4 ,turn sleeve right side out and remove basting stitches4 ,rip out the body lining1 starting at the right facing1 and rip down and around the pocket to one inch above and one inch below the pocket across bottom1 up side seam1 and across shoulder4 ,then remove lining1 and iron out smooth1 to use as a pattern1 for new lining as before1 leaving the left side of the lining in as a guide to the beginner as to how the lining should be placed4 ,then cut the new lining for the right side one half inch larger all around than the pattern for allowance in shrinking1 and also for convenience while working4 ,then baste lining in right side1 being careful not to put lining in too tight4 ,rather have it too long1 but not so long that it hangs below the bottom of garment4 ,coats will not hang well with tight or short lining4 ,turn edge of lining in down front1 and across bottom with basting1 and fasten lining to side seam of forepart with long loose basting stitches4 ,then rip lining out of left side and iron out smoothly for a pattern1 cut and baste in new lining on left side the same as explained for the right4 ,now cut the back lining double and seam down back centre seam1 basting one inch plait for ease1 then press to one side1 and baste in back1 and turn all edges in1 down side seams1 across bottom and shoulders1 and back of neck4 ,now fasten lining all around arm hole to the seam1 thereby holding lining in place1 so as not to allow it to come loose4 ,cut lining off even with seam all around arm hole1 then baste sleeve lining around4 ,cut lining to back of pocket1 and at back end1 cut lining in a trifle to allow working1 and for turning in around the pocket1 and fell lining in all around the pocket mouth1 and proceed to fell the lining1 doing the same with the left side4 ,now finish felling the entire coat4 ,remove basting stitches1 and finish garment in the usual way4 ,ladies' jackets and coats are relined in the same way1 also all kinds of men's coats and overcoats included4 ,when new silk facings are required for coats1 remove the old facing1 and use it as a pattern for the new1 and when cutting the new facing1 allow three quarters of an inch all around for convenience1 while working4 ,baste new silk facing on very neat1 and take time to do good work4 ,when basting is completed1 fell all around with fine silk1 being careful not to draw the stitches tight1 nor to contract the edge4 ,try to have the new silk facing put on so that it will look better than the old one did when new4 ,this will bring you customers4 ,the price to charge for such work is by the hour and for material used4 ,,to ,,reline ,,vests4 ,rip old lining and back out of right side1 and iron out smooth for a pattern4 ,now cut forepart lining one half inch larger all around and baste in forepart lining1 observing how the left is put in4 ,baste edges of lining in1 down facing1 across bottom and around arm hole1 7when one becomes familiar the right sides of lining may be placed to that of the foreparts and sewed around the armholes by machine1 thereby saving the felling by hand74 ,now rip left inside lining out and replace it with new lining1 same as the right4 ,fell all around1 then iron the back lining out smooth for a pattern1 cutting it exactly the same size as the old one1 and mark with chalk1 where seam was sewn before4 ,cut inside lining the same size1 and seam back seams on the machine1 and press open 7or one may stitch to one side71 place right sides together to sew2 smooth with iron1 and baste the right forepart1 side seam to that of the back lining1 also to the shoulder4 ,baste left side the same way4 ,now baste the inside lining to inside of vest4 ,this will leave an opening at the top of neck and bottom4 ,now baste1 placing both back seams together1 and baste each way to the side seams4 ,this will leave an opening1 now only at the neck1 thereby forming a pocket1 or bag for the vest1 as it were4 ,sew with machine1 in same seam as at first1 down side seam1 across shoulder1 and bottom1 and around arm holes1 notch lining around back arm hole4 ,remove basting1 and turn vest right side out at the neck4 ,baste lining even around bottom and arm hole4 ,now baste lining across back of neck1 inside and out1 then fell entire lining4 ,when basting the shoulders of vest1 have the back lining one quarter of an inch full in the hollow of front of shoulder1 to allow for stretching1 and to form a concave4 ,should vests require to be made larger1 when one has the lining out1 all one has to do1 is to mark with chalk or thread1 the amount to be made larger1 adding amount from the old seam on back1 and baste forepart side seams to the mark to be made larger4 ,if new pockets are required1 and one is not familiar with the work1 remove the pocket very carefully1 observing every detail as to how it should be put together4 ,iron out smooth and cut new pocket1 seam around1 all but mouth1 and place inside of pocket1 and turn edges in all around top or mouth of pocket1 and fell with silk same color as pocket 7never remove welt from pocket when only new pockets are required74 ,should the buttonholes need repairing1 repair them4 ,also see that the buttons are sewed on firm4 ,darn all holes1 and clean and allow to dry before new lining is placed4 ,,new ,,waist ,,band ,,lining ,,in ,,trousers4 ,remove old one1 and iron out smooth and use for pattern4 ,cut new one out and baste in and fell around tops and down sides1 and fasten at pockets to hold in place4 ,if new buttons are required1 sew them on before new lining is placed1 so as not to sew through the lining4 ,repair trousers where needed4 ,to repair sleeves that are worn out around the bottom run a basting thread around both sleeves five inches from the bottom of cuff1 to hold lining in place1 then rip sleeve lining around the bottom1 unfasten the turn up of sleeve from the wigan1 7darn sleeve edge if necessary when it is worn through71 now baste up firmly one eighth of an inch1 or as much more as the sleeve will allow and still be of sufficient length1 7run basting one-quarter inch from bottom71 fasten the turn up back to the wigan with basting 7this basting is left in72 now let sleeve lining come down1 and if it is longer than to the end of cuff2 cut off what comes below4 ,then turn sleeve lining in on the turn up two inches from the bottom of cuff with basting stitches1 and fell lining with silk same color as the cloth or lining4 ,finish both sleeves the same4 ,remove basting1 turn sleeves right side out2 and press all around cuff as explained4 ,when felling do not take long stitches1 short ones look neater and are stronger and work will have a better appearance when finished4 ,should the sleeve be finished with stitching around the cuff1 finish the same when repairing4 ,sew buttons on1 this completes the repairing of sleeves at the bottom4 ,,how ,,to ,,put ,,velvet ,,collars ,,on ,,coats4 ,remove old one1 pick out old stitches in coat collar 7the old stitches in velvet do not matter71 place coat in a convenient manner on the press-jack and press collar and lapels into shape4 ,cut new velvet collar one-eighth inch larger on each side than the pattern1 or larger if necessary1 and steam over an iron as explained4 ,stretch the edges a trifle on each side of velvet1 being careful not to leave finger or thumb marks1 and when cool1 baste on coat1 7silk thread should be used when basting velvet7 in collar crease through velvet to hold in place4 ,run another basting below crease and in the stand of collar1 and another row of basting on leaf of collar close to the crease4 ,run another basting near the outside edge of collar leaf1 and form a cushion at each end to allow ample room for ends to curl under 7instead of up74 ,see that the velvet is not basted on too tight or too short4 ,now turn velvet in over old seam or stitches on the inside of coat collar1 from end to end2 and baste velvet over edge and all around leaf4 ,now cut velvet off even along the leaf1 then fell inside of velvet to coat neck with silk to match2 and herringbone velvet to leaf all around from end to end4 ,make a loop or hanger out of a straight piece of lining one-half inch wide1 and turn all edges in and fold again and fell together2 now sew to the coat as before1 turning both edges of loop in1 and tacking same through stand of collar4 ,remove all basting by cutting each stitch and pulling out from the right side1 and with the nap of the velvet4 ,,to ,,steam ,,collar4 ,place iron on its side1 cover with a piece of paper1 over this lay a wet sponge cloth2 then hold coat collar very close to steaming cloth 7when one is familiar with the work they may allow the collar to rest on the steaming cloth for a minute71 and move back and forth1 allowing steam to come through the velvet4 ,then remove the collar and shape by hand1 as when worn4 ,brush the nap gently to freshen while steaming1 but with a very soft brush4 ,place on coat hanger1 and allow to dry before wearing or delivering4 ,good sewing1 good pressing1 well finished ends and corners1 lightness of touch which holds the work without apparently touching it1 will give to the finished garment a fresh look4 ,all these are important considerations4 ,when darning1 great care must be taken to have the work finished up neatly1 as darning and mending is an art1 and like everything else1 requires patience and practice4 ,basting is only used in the preparation of work1 to hold stuff and lining1 or any two or more parts of the work together1 while it is being stitched1 as none of the basting is left in the finished garment4 ,it is also used as a guide for sewing and marking on light colored goods as it will not leave a mark as would colored chalk4 ,for ordinary work1 basting stitches should be cut every few inches and drawn out4 ,it is impossible to prevent trousers bagging at the knee1 but here is an idea that will help materially to keep knees in shape4 ,fasten a piece of silk to the forepart of trousers on the inside to the seams and across bottom and top seven inches above and ten inches below the knee1 being careful not to allow stitches to show through on right side4 ,buttonholes may be made easy to work by spacing off the number required1 with pins or thread marks4 ,mark length of hole1 and stitch on a machine the desired length1 then turn at right angles and take two stitches1 then turn back and stitch other side4 ,turn at right angles and take two more stitches1 thereby tacking both ends4 ,all buttonholes may be stitched in one garment without removing from the machine4 ,this method takes the place of serging or overcasting and is much better for thin ravelly goods4 ,,making ,,buttonholes4 ,buttonholes should be overcasted or serged as soon as cut1 with fine thread or silk1 the stitches should be light1 loose and even1 this is done with a slanting stitch4 ,making buttonholes3 ,insert the needle on the edge of the material and when half way through1 take the two threads at the eye of the needle bring them towards you at the right and under the point of the needle1 drawing the thread from you1 making the purl or loop stitch come directly on the edge of the buttonhole4 ,stitches should lay close together just far enough apart for the purl or loop stitch to form1 always have each stitch of the universal length so the stitches will look straight on each side of the buttonhole1 the stitches may be placed closer together at the end as most wear comes there4 ,,darning ,a ,,three ,,cornered ,,tear4 ,a three cornered tear may be darned in two ways4 ,commence by darning diagonally through the center1 darning back and forth towards the end of the tear until one-half has been finished2 then begin at the center and work in the opposite direction4 ,at the corner1 the stitches should form the shape of a fan4 ,another method which is stronger1 is done by darning a square in the angle1 first with the warp threads1 then with the woof threads1 and finishing each end across the tear4 ,,hems ,,and ,,the ,,felling ,,of ,,same4 ,a hem is a fold of goods doubled twice to prevent a raw edge4 ,the fold should be turned even and straight with the thread of the material1 on this depends the neatness of one's work4 ,the hem should always be turned in toward the worker and basted firmly not too near the edge1 leaving one-eighth inch space for working4 ,felling--when felling or hemming1 the needle should take up only the edge to be hemmed or felled down and just enough to hold on the cloth or lining4 ,when felling or hemming take small stitches close together1 even1 and do not draw thread or silk too tight as to cause the edge to have the appearance of the teeth of a saw4 ,,back ,,stitching4 ,the back stitch is made by placing the needle back in the last stitch1 bringing it out once the length of the last stitch1 then placing the needle back into last stitch and so on1 being careful not to draw the thread too tight as to have a drawing appearance1 make the stitches follow each other without leaving a space between4 ,back stitching is used in places where much strain is on the seam4 ,bias hems1 such as sleeve head lining1 etc4 ,all bias hems and curved edges1 should have the folds basted in4 ,,lesson ,,iv4 ,,alterations4 ,how to shorten and lengthen coat sleeves4 ,how to raise and lower collars4 ,how to alter 7or change7 a coat that is too large around the neck and collar4 ,how to make the alteration when a coat is too large over the chest4 ,how to change a vest that is too large around4 ,how to make a vest larger around4 ,how to change trousers that are too long4 ,how to lengthen trousers4 ,how to make trousers smaller around the waist4 ,how to make trousers larger around the waist1 whether there is an outlet or not4 ,how to make button cords for sewing on buttons4 ,an easy way to hang a skirt4 ,how to iron over buttons without breaking4 ,also how to iron embroidery4 ,,how ,,to ,,make ,,alterations ,,on ,,garments4 ,when sleeves are to be shortened or lengthened1 have customer try coat on1 and mark with chalk1 the length desired4 ,then remove coat and run a basting of cotton around both sleeves1 five inches above cuff1 to hold lining in place1 while doing the work4 ,then with a knife or scissors1 rip lining around both cuffs4 ,unfasten turn up from wigan4 ,this will allow turn up to fall down4 ,now mark with chalk1 around both sleeves1 the correct length4 ,turn up and baste solid1 and fasten turn up1 to wigan1 same as before4 ,now allow lining to fall down1 and cut off even all around the end of the cuff4 ,baste lining two inches from the edge of cuff1 and fell with silk same color as the cloth or lining4 ,these instructions are for shortening sleeves4 ,when sleeves are to be lengthened1 proceed as before1 but with this difference1--should the lining1 and turn up of cuff not meet1 it will be necessary to piece the lining or sew hand facings to the bottom of sleeve1 same as the cloth in garment1 or as near as possible4 ,then fell sleeve lining to facing4 ,when sleeves are to be lengthened1 baste a piece of wigan to that which is now in place1 the amount to be lengthened1 and fasten turn up to the wigan1 and turn sleeve lining in two inches from the end of cuff4 ,fell sleeve lining to turn up as before4 ,sleeves may be lengthened all of the turn up1 by sewing a piece of cloth to the sleeve1 same as the garment1 same size around1 and sewn in a seam on the machine4 ,baste and turn edges out even1 and press firm1 stitch around with machine1 thereby making it firm and solid4 ,stitch edge of sleeve to match edge of coat4 ,fasten ends of silk thread by threading them to a needle and taking a stitch or two1 then cut off4 ,sew buttons on as required4 ,this completes the lengthening of sleeves4 ,should coat collar be too high1 run a row of basting cotton1 two inches below the collar seam2 mark with chalk the amount to be lowered1 then rip with knife or scissors1 inside and out from crease to crease4 ,now baste under collar to neck of coat first1 and fasten inside of coat to the stand of collar4 ,now baste the outside or top collar on the inside to the coat in keeping with the amount lowered and fell inside and outside of collar4 ,sew loop on back of coat collar inside1 and remove basting4 ,place coat collar on press-jack in a convenient manner and press in same crease as when worn4 ,place on a coat hanger1 to retain its proper shape and to dry before wearing4 7,when basting under collar to coat neck1 start basting from center back seam1 forward to each side47 ,when coat collar is to be raised1 run a row of basting cotton two inches below the collar seam1 from end to end4 ,rip under collar and unfasten coat from stand of collar inside and rip inside collar from crease to crease4 ,mark with chalk the amount to be raised1 and start basting from the center back seam1 forward to each side2 then fasten coat to the stand of collar1 and baste inside or top collar to the inside of coat the amount raised on the outside4 ,fasten loop to stand of collar inside1 remove bastings and place coat collar on press-jack in a convenient way1 press as before and hang to dry before wearing4 ,if however1 the coat collar is to be raised and one finds that by raising1 that the collar will be too long1 the collar may be cut in the center and seamed or taken off at one end 7if only raised on one side7 or both as the case may be2 if raised all around1 the collar must be shortened at both ends4 ,this is a very particular piece of work1 and should not be attempted unless the garment is old1 and one wants to practice on it2 this may be had by altering an old garment for practice1 as with practice1 most anything may be accomplished4 7,when one has had considerable experience in this line1 then it may be done without taking it to a tailor2 until then1 it will be best to let the experienced tailor do the work on a good coat47 ,when a coat is too large around the neck and collar1 and falls away at the bottom when unbuttoned1 and bulges at the opening when buttoned1 is an indication that the garment is not balanced properly4 ,this may be changed to fit perfectly in the following manner3 ,run a basting three inches from each side of the shoulder seams and to front of coat to collar end4 ,rip collar off from crease to crease1 rip shoulder seams from neck to within two inches of the sleeve seam1 and mark with chalk1 the amount to be taken in 7as the shoulder strap is too long from neck to bottom of arm hole and must be shortened so that the coat will hang squarely and well balanced when unbuttoned as well as when buttoned71 mark from neck gradually to nothing at the end of the two inches1 from the shoulder or sleeve head2 this amount to be taken off the forepart in all cases1 baste back to shoulder seam and press open1 unless a trifle may be taken off the center back seam at top1 which is a good idea1 so that the collar will fall more closely to the neck4 ,baste shoulder and lining together4 ,now baste collar on1 starting at the center back seam1 and baste forward each way1 and if found too long1 shorten as explained above2 fell shoulders and collar4 ,finish collar neatly and press shoulder and collar4 ,when one side is to be altered 7this one may see when customer has coat on and buttoned1 and one side stands away from the neck71 in that case1 only change one side4 ,when a coat is too large over the chest1 and by setting the buttons back from the edge two and one-half inches 7which is only to be done in extreme cases7 will not have the desired effect2 run a row of basting cotton around arm hole two inches from the sleeve seam1 across shoulder to the front end of collar and two inches from the shoulder seam4 ,rip sleeves and shoulders out and collar off from end to end1 press seam out smooth1 and mark with chalk the amount shoulder is to be advanced1 say from one-quarter to three-quarters of an inch1 as the case may be 7this may be easily determined when the coat is on the customer1 notice the amount of lap and then judge the amount71 baste back shoulder to forepart of coat having the top of back even with the chalk mark2 seam and press open1 baste shoulder and lining together1 now baste collar on1 then baste sleeve in1 and seam and press open seam as before and fix up sleeve head1 and cut off end of shoulder amount shoulder was advanced at shoulder point4 ,this will take surplus goods away from the front and allow goods to go back2 finish collar1 shoulders and sleeves and press4 ,double breasted coats are different1 the buttons may be set from the edge1 according to style and fashion4 ,when a coat is too large in the back1 take part out in the side seams and part out in the center back seam2 the best way to determine the amount to be taken out1 is to pin each seam a trifle when customer has coat on1 then one will get the proper effect of the alteration4 ,when a vest is too large around1 it may be pinned on the customer1 down the side seams and center back the desired amount to be taken out2 this alteration may be done in the following manner3 ,rip vest across back of neck1 rip each side seam1 mark with chalk the amount to be taken in on each side seam and center back seams4 ,baste forepart to that of the back at side seams and baste center back seam together1 lining and outside4 ,seam on machine1 remove the basting1 turn vest right side out and fell across back of neck4 ,press side seams1 back and around neck2 place on hanger to retain shape4 ,when vest is to be made larger1 proceed as follows3 ,rip side seams and across the back of neck1 press out side seams of back1 and remove stitches1 and if there is an outlet1 mark with chalk the amount to be let out on each side1 and baste as before and finish the same4 ,if there is no outlet1 one must sew a piece of lining to the outside and inside lining2 press open the seams or stitch to one side and press4 ,then mark with chalk the amount to be let out and proceed as explained and finish4 ,when trousers are too long1 they may be shortened in the following manner3 ,mark with chalk 7using the tape line for measuring length7 the desired length1 loosen the bottoms1 7if felled1 rip with knife or scissors1 being careful not to cut the cloth71 if there is rubber in the bottoms1 wet a piece of cloth with gasolene1 and rub over the outside and pull turn up free from the bottoms4 ,turn trousers inside out1 allow to dry after using gasolene before turning up bottoms4 ,if rubber is to be put in the bottoms1 cut a piece one inch and a half wide1 and baste in the turn up or hem and fasten hem to the side seams with silk1 only leave a two inch turn up1 cut balance off4 ,before pressing1 place on the small end of press-jack and press all around as in pressing cuffs or bottom of trousers as explained4 7,but not with sponge cloth1 only with iron and wet bottoms with sponge74 ,press until rubber is thoroughly melted and set4 ,when one has pressed both bottoms all around1 turn trousers right side out and press bottoms as in ordinary pressing4 ,when bottoms are felled1 leave two inches for turn up and cut off the balance4 ,fell with silk all around1 being careful not to let stitches show through on right side4 ,press bottoms same as explained4 ,when trousers are to be lengthened1 loosen them at the bottom measure with tape line1 the desired length1 from crotch down1 making them one inch shorter in the back or according to fashion4 ,mark with chalk the desired length1 and place rubber or fell as the case may be1 and press as explained2 but if trousers are to be lengthened1 all4 ,it will be necessary1 to sew a piece of cloth to the bottoms same size and same cloth 7or as near as possible71 sew on machine and baste edges out even1 and place rubber or fell2 press bottoms and finish in the usual way by turning trousers right side out1 and pressing bottoms and legs4 ,sew heel protectors on 7they may be made of silesia by turning all edges in1 or made of cloth1 same material as trousers7 half inch wide and four inches long1 sewn half2 each side of the center or crease of back trouser bottom4 ,this must be sewed to the inside of bottom4 ,when trousers are too large around the waist1 mark with chalk 7or pin on customer71 the amount to be taken in1 rip back seam down as far as is required4 ,remove the two back suspender buttons and rip lining back far enough for convenience in working4 ,baste the back seam together and sew in the chalk mark 7by machine or by hand7 to within two inches of the top of waist band2 press seam open and fasten back seam at waist to the waist band on each side and leave an outlet one inch and a half wide1 each side of the back seam at the top1 tapering to nothing at the bottom or three inches from the inside leg seam4 ,sew back suspender buttons on two inches each side of back seam4 ,put a good neck on buttons to allow suspender button holes to fit smoothly around button4 ,this may be done by placing a match or pin over the top of button and sewing over it1 filling the holes with twisted thread or button cord made for that purpose1 as explained in 7how to make button cord47 ,when holes are filled1 remove the match or pin1 and wind cord around under button1 and fasten by taking two stitches through the neck1 and cut thread off4 ,now fell lining back in place1 leaving an opening at top of1 say two inches in back seam for ease4 ,press and finish in the usual way4 ,when trousers are to be made larger around waist1 rip lining three inches each side of the back seam at top and remove the two top back suspender buttons4 ,rip back seam down the required amount and press out the mark made by the seam4 ,now with the chalk1 mark the amount to be made larger1 half the amount on each side of seam1 baste seam and sew on machine or by hand in chalk mark4 ,remove basting1 and press seam open1 fasten to each side of the seam at waist as before1 leaving two inches open at the top for ease4 ,sew two back suspender buttons on2 and fell waist band lining4 ,finish and press in the usual way4 ,when trousers are to be made larger at the waist1 and there is nothing to let out1 remove back suspender buttons as explained1 and waist band lining4 ,cut a piece of cloth ,v shape as long as is necessary and of the same material or as near as possible2 make this piece two seams wider than required4 ,this may be determined by the amount to be made larger1 7the larger the piece at the top1 the longer the wedge will have to be1 as it will not do to have an abrupt slant74 ,baste right sides of cloth and trousers together1 sew on machine and remove basting and press open the seam4 ,then baste other side and seam1 then press open2 fasten a piece of canvas across the top of waist where piece has been set in1 and stitch with machine across1 in keeping with the stitching on the waist band4 ,if no waist seam1 just stitch even with the waist stitching4 ,sew back suspender buttons on1 and fell waist band lining at top1 and finish as explained1 fastening waist band lining to seams to hold it in place2 press and finish4 ,when pressing seams1 always press on the smooth side of the press-jack1 and dampen with the wet sponge1 this will make pressing easier2 but do not put too much water on seams4 ,how to make button cords for sewing on buttons4 ,thread a needle with linen thread double1 then rub beeswax up and down the thread2 then twist1 and when one has twisted enough1 rub with a piece of cloth4 ,this will help to keep the twist in the cord and make it strong1 which is very essential in sewing on buttons2 one knows how annoying it is to have buttons coming off2 this may be prevented by sewing them on good with twisted thread4 ,when using silk thread1 always draw it through beeswax and rub through cloth to remove excess wax4 ,this will make the silk stronger1 and also will slip through the cloth more easily when sewing4 ,a good method of hanging a skirt4 ,have customer stand on top of the stairs1 the fitter sitting on the second step4 ,this is an easy way to see that skirts hang evenly all around1 marking the proper length without rising1 or getting on the knees or sitting on the floor4 ,ironing over buttons made easy and safe4 ,place four ply wadding on press-jack1 buttons facing wadding4 ,iron from the wrong side until dry4 ,this is equally good in ironing embroidery waists4 7,when ironing embroidery white wadding should be used47 ,,lesson ,v4 ,,pressing4 ,how to sponge and shrink all kinds of woolen goods for dressmakers and tailors1 before making into garments1 also for one's own use at home4 ,how to use the iron and sponge cloths4 ,how to press hard finished worsteds4 ,how to press single and double breasted sack coats1 overcoats1 rain coats1 ,tuxedos1 motormen and conductors1 also fatigue coats1 cutaways1 morning1 dress coats1 ,prince ,alberts1 military1 clerical1 uniforms1 footman's liveries1 ,newmarket1 ,paddock and ,palitot4 ,all kind of jackets1 coats and skirts for ladies4 ,how to press single and double breasted vests with or without collars1 also clerical and fancy vests4 ,how to press trousers4 ,how to sponge and shrink all kinds of woolen goods for dressmakers and tailors1 before making into garments1 also for one's use at home4 ,to prepare a sponge cloth for that purpose1 use unbleached cotton four yards long1 7or as long as the cloth to be shrunk requires71 boil in soap and water for one hour1 rinse in clean water to remove any lint1 then it is ready for use4 ,place woolen goods to be sponged on a table or clean floor1 then wet the sponge cloth by dipping it into a pail or basin of warm water so that it will get thoroughly wet1 wring out almost dry 7but not so dry as when pressing7 and place over the goods smoothly1 see that the cloth is free from wrinkles4 ,make a flat roll six inches wide1 or as wide as a wrapping board would be 7do not roll on a board as it will leave a mark difficult to remove74 ,roll evenly until cloth to be shrunk is thoroughly covered1 sides and ends with sponge cloth4 ,time required for goods to remain in sponge4 ,close woven material1 such as hard finished worsteds1 broad cloth1 kerseys1 meltons and beavers1 require to be left in sponge three hours while open wove goods1 such as homespuns1 unfinished worsteds1 soft overcoatings1 and ladies' cloth requires but two hours4 ,when goods is ready to be taken out of sponge1 unroll and place over a round pole1 7sufficient height to allow cloth to clear the floor71 or lay smoothly on a table or floor4 ,when dry1 fold 7not roll7 double1 and so on until you have a fold seven or eight inches wide1 and small enough to place in a package4 ,the wrinkles may be pressed out with a warm iron1 being careful not to allow gloss to form1 and see that iron is not hot enough to burn or scorch cloth4 ,also to see that ends are even especially on stripes and checks1 and to see that checks and plaids match4 ,when pressing always have the iron to the right on the table1 the edge of the garment facing toward the presser4 ,start pressing the right side of all garments first4 ,in this way forming a system of doing the work4 ,when pressing all kinds of coats1 vests1 ladies' jackets and coats1 have the neck1 collar1 or waist seam lying on the small end of the press-jack1 and start from the center back seam of all coats and vests1 and press forward on the right side1 toward the front edge4 ,to press the left side of all coats and vests1 reverse the press-jack and garment so that neck1 collar waist seam or band is lying to the left4 ,commencing as before1 from the center back seam of garment1 and continue pressing left side1 and around to the front edge1 which must be facing the presser4 ,coats1 vests1 jackets and coats1 should be placed on hangers to retain their proper shape4 ,a good iron rest for the table1 is made by nailing a smooth horseshoe to a block of wood1 a trifle larger than the shoe4 ,when using the under woolen press cloth1 cotton sponge cloth and iron1 lay the under woolen press cloth1 and sponge cloth on that part of the garment to be pressed1 and apply the iron until sponge cloth shows signs of drying4 ,then remove the cloths and iron1 and slap with the back of the brush that part just pressed1 to refreshen same1 and brush the part pressed1 with the thread or nap of the fabric2 thus making the garment look like new4 ,go over the entire garment 7and all garments7 in this manner until the whole garment has been pressed4 ,when trousers have been pressed1 place them over a round pole1 suspended from the ceiling1 or fastened to the wall with brackets4 ,a still better way is to place them on individual hangers4 ,do not give customers garments damp from pressing1 place them on hangers and allow them to remain for one hour before wearing or delivering4 ,do not try to press clothes that are damp from cleaning or otherwise4 ,allow them to thoroughly dry1 when they will press more easily1 and customers better satisfied1 by giving them first-rate work4 ,when a garment has been pressed all over1 examine it thoroughly for gloss1 and where any appears1 remove it as explained 7in how to press hard finished worsteds47 ,this process should be followed carefully when pressing all kinds of garments4 ,when pressing1 the iron should never be shoved or pushed1 as in ironing1 as before explained2 as it is apt to stretch where not required4 ,only heavy materials require heavy pressing or great strength4 ,whatever the material1 pressing is work that requires to be done carefully and slowly4 ,when pressing seams1 allow the iron to touch only the center of the seam1 then the edges of the seam will not be outlined on the outside of the garment4 ,this however1 is only intended for light weight goods1 as when pressing seams in heavy material1 it is necessary to press more solid4 ,how to press hard finished worsteds4 ,when pressing hard finished worsteds1 place under woolen press cloth1 and sponge cloth over the part to be pressed1 7wring sponge cloth as nearly dry as possible71 and apply the iron1 not too hot1 allowing it to rest until sponge cloth is entirely dry4 7,this is termed by tailors1 as dry pressing or glossing74 ,now remove iron1 and press cloths and place a damp part of the sponge cloth over that part just pressed1 to remove the gloss1 if any1 by applying the iron lightly1 and slap with the back of the brush while steaming4 ,also brushing the nap of the cloth4 ,avoid stretching while pressing especially the edges and collar1 unless it is required1 7and the presser understands where to stretch1 and is familiar with the fitting qualities of the garment47 ,when pressing around the pockets1 have flaps on the outside1 and turn pockets inside out before cleaning1 that all dust and dirt may be removed1 then return the pockets to their proper place before starting to press4 ,when a coat or vest is placed on the table or press-jack1 to be pressed1 and one notices fullness along front edges and bottom1 press fullness away by laying under press cloth and sponge cloth over part to be pressed and leave iron until sponge cloth is entirely dry1 then remove cloths and apply a damp part of the press cloth1 and iron again to remove gloss as explained before4 ,always have edge of garments pointing toward the presser4 ,this may be learned and accomplished in a short time with little practice4 ,how to clean and press single and double breasted sack coats1 motormen and conductors1 also fatigue3 ,brush thoroughly1 and if necessary whip with cane1 being careful not to break the buttons on the garment4 ,turn all pockets inside out1 and have flaps on the outside4 ,remove all spots2 special care must be taken to remove grease and dirt from the collar1 also the fronts1 with the cleaning fluid4 ,place on coat hangers and when dry1 proceed to press as follows3 ,have coat lying on the table or tailor's bench to the right1 draw the right cuff over the small end of the press-jack which should be pointing to the right4 ,lay the sponge cloths over that part of the garment to be pressed1 7which you have prepared by wetting in a pail or basin of warm water used for that purpose and wrung until almost dry71 then apply the iron until the sponge cloths shows sign of drying4 ,then remove the sponge cloths and iron1 and slap with the back of brush 7as has been explained47 ,continue this around the right sleeve cuff1 and also the left4 ,then with the coat in the same position1 reverse the press-jack and place the right sleeve1 top side up on the large end of the press-jack1 being careful to have the sleeve smoothed out nicely1 then lay sponge cloths over and apply the iron1 pressing full length and width1 up and down the sleeve1 7being careful to see that no wrinkles are pressed in the sleeve47 ,remove the cloths and iron as before1 slapping with the back of the brush1 then brushing the nap to refreshen the cloth4 ,turn sleeve over and press under side of sleeve the same4 ,press left sleeve in the same manner4 ,crease sleeves front and back1 if requested by customer4 ,reverse the press-jack and draw right shoulder of coat over the small end of the press-jack in a convenient manner1 and press around the armholes1 by laying the sponge cloths on the part to be pressed4 ,apply the iron as before1 and then slap with the back of the brush4 ,now press around left shoulder and arm hole in the same manner4 ,next place the coat so that the collar points to the right on the large end of the press-jack4 ,lay the sponge cloths on the back of the coat1 applying the iron as before1 and press down back and around right side of coat to the front edge2 always having the edge of the garment toward the presser4 ,reverse press-jack and coat1 then as before1 commence pressing at the center back seam1 and forward to the front edge4 ,this completes the left side4 ,place the coat on table or tailor's bench1 and reverse press-jack2 lift coat and place collar or press-jack in a convenient way1 so that the collar and lapel1 when pressed1 will be creased the same as when worn4 ,commence pressing from the center of collar to the right side of lapel1 being careful not to stretch the edges of lapel or collar4 ,then from the center of collar at the back1 press forward on left side as before4 ,turn coat inside out1 and smooth lining with cool iron1 and with an almost dry sponge cloth4 ,this will remove any wrinkles1 and leave the lining smooth4 ,now press the right side of facing and lapel1 by laying four-ply of wadding on the press-jack1 and place right forepart of coat so that the buttons face toward the wadding1 and press on the wrong side1 the buttons will sink into the wadding thereby avoiding the breaking of same1 which is very easily done if great care is not taken4 ,now remove the wadding and press left side on the padded side of press-jack in the usual manner4 ,now turn the coat right side out1 place right shoulder in a convenient manner on the small end of the press-jack1 and if any wrinkles appear on top of the right sleeve head1 press them out4 ,do the same with the left side4 ,look coat over thoroughly for gloss1 if any appears1 place coat on press-jack in a convenient manner and remove as explained4 ,when pressing coats1 be careful to have the flaps on the outside1 the pockets returned to their proper place inside1 before starting to press4 ,roll fronts of coats to the inside1 so that they will retain their proper shape1 also to give to them that chesty effect1 which is very essential1 in the pressing of all kinds of coats1 and vests4 ,one will soon become familiar with the work by a little practice4 ,place coats on hangers to dry before wearing or delivering4 ,sack overcoats1 rain-coats and ,tuxedos1 are pressed in the same way4 ,how to clean and press cutaway dress1 ,prince ,albert1 military1 clerical1 uniforms1 footman's liveries1 ,newmarket1 ,paddock and ,palitot4 ,the above garments are cleaned and pressed the same as other garments1 but with this difference3--,coats with skirts are pressed from the collar or neck to the waist line or seam1 then moved up to the waist line or seam1 and pressed from that to the bottom of skirt1 and around to the front1 having the edge of the garment pointing toward the presser4 ,all coats lined with silk are pressed very lightly1 especially lapels and facings 7as the mark of the iron shows easy2 and on silks is difficult to remove47 ,silk should look fluffy in a garment1 and therefore does not require much pressing4 ,great care must be taken when cleaning1 pressing1 and repairing dress suits1 ,tuxedos1 ,prince ,alberts1 and any garment that is silk lined4 ,the price to charge for such work may only be figured by the amount of silk1 and time required to do the work4 ,silk facings may be had by mailing samples to this office1 and we will send price list4 ,how to clean and press ladies' jackets and coats3 ,brush thoroughly1 and if necessary1 whip with cane to remove all dust and dirt4 ,remove all spots with the cleaning fluid1 place on hangers1 and when dry1 press as follows3 ,ladies' jackets and coats are pressed the same as men's1 but with the following differences3 ,press around cuffs1 sleeves and shoulders on the small end of the press-jack1 then start at the center back seam and press forward to the front edge1 having the collar or neck pointing to the right4 ,always have the edge of the garment facing the presser4 ,reverse the press-jack1 coat or jacket1 and commence pressing as before1 down the back seam and around left side to front edge4 ,lay sleeves on the press-jack and press as before1 being careful to have plaits in the right creases and the gatherings in their proper place4 ,do not allow more plaits or wrinkles to form on the top of the sleeves than is needed4 ,how to clean and press all kinds of skirts for ladies1 ,brush thoroughly and whip if necessary1 turn the skirt inside out1 and brush dust and dirt1 from the seams and bottom4 ,clean all grease spots1 if any1 with the cleaning fluid1 place on hangers1 and when dry1 press as follows3 ,draw skirt on press-jack with the waist band pointing to the left1 on the small end of the press-jack2 the skirt to be drawn on the press-jack to the left4 ,use the sponge cloths and iron the same as when pressing other garments4 ,press around the top of the skirt and as far below as the press-jack will allow4 ,if skirt is plaited1 be careful to have the plaits lying smooth on the press-jack1 either pin or baste plaits in their proper creases before starting to press4 ,when pressing thin skirts1 it is not necessary to press very hard1 only until the steam arises1 then slap with the back of the brush to keep steam in the goods1 also to refreshen the garment4 ,place on skirt hangers to dry before wearing or delivering4 ,always look for gloss1 and if any appears1 remove as explained4 ,how to clean and press single and double breasted vests1 clerical1 with or without collar3 ,brush thoroughly and whip with cane1 if necessary1 to remove dust and dirt1 being careful not to break the buttons on the garment4 ,turn all pockets inside out to remove all dust and dirt from them4 ,then remove all spots with the cleaning fluid as explained4 ,place on coat hanger1 and when dry1 press as follows3 ,place the right forepart of the vest smooth on the press-jack1 with the edge facing the presser1 and the neck or the collar pointing to the right4 ,cover with sponge cloths and apply the iron until the cloth shows signs of drying4 ,remove and slap with the back of the brush1 then brush the nap of the cloth to refreshen and make it look like new1 being careful not to stretch the opening when pressing the forepart and shoulders4 ,when pressing the foreparts of vests1 start at the side seams1 and press forward to the front edge4 ,now reverse the press-jack and vest and press left side in the same manner1 around the shoulders and arm holes4 ,now smooth the wrinkles from the back1 starting from the center and pressing forward to the right side seam2 then press the left side in the same manner4 ,this removes the wrinkles1 and may be done with almost dry sponge cloth and medium warm iron4 ,all vests are pressed in the same way1 with the exception of fancy or white vests4 ,with these use a plain white cotton cloth1 and wet sponge with clean water4 ,fancy wool vests should be dry cleaned before pressing4 ,wash vests require a little thin boiled starch to give body to goods1 then iron when almost dry4 ,turn all pockets inside out before starting to press4 ,the pockets are pressed first1 then returned to their proper place1 thereby keeping the mouth of the pocket neat and even4 ,continue the ironing until the vest is completed4 ,with a little practice1 one will soon become familiar with the work4 ,always being careful not to stretch the opening4 ,rather shrink in1 by pressing in a half circle from left to right toward the front edge4 ,when pressing vests examine the pockets and see if there is a chamois watch pocket1 if there is sew or fasten a piece of cloth on the outside of vest pocket as a reminder not to press over the pocket2 if you did it would spoil the chamois1 and a new pocket would have to be put in for the customer4 ,how to clean and press trousers3 ,brush thoroughly from the right side1 and whip1 if necessary1 then turn them inside out4 ,also the pockets4 ,see that all dust and dirt is thoroughly removed1 also lint from the seams4 ,then turn right side out1 and remove all dirt and grease spots with the cleaning fluid as explained4 ,place on hangers1 and when dry1 proceed to press as follows3 ,place trousers flat on a covered table with the knees up 7trousers being turned inside out7 wet bags at knee with sponge4 ,apply the iron1 not too hot and press in a circle to the center1 to remove and shrink away the bag2 now do the same with the left leg4 ,turn trousers right side out1 and press around bottoms1 same as in pressing the cuffs on coats4 ,reverse press-jack and trousers1 and press around tops with sponge cloths and iron as far down as seat line or end of fly1 starting from the right side of fly and pressing around to the left fly4 ,remove the press-jack and lay trousers flat on the table or bench that has been covered with felt or cloth 7melton1 kersey or thibet74 ,place creases at the bottom together with the left hand1 and with the right hand place the two top suspender buttons together1 then lay them flat on the bench or lengthwise of the table4 ,then turn the left leg back as far as the seat line1 and straighten the right leg out smooth on the table4 ,cover with the sponge cloths and apply the iron1 pressing full length of leg1 until cloths shows sign of drying1 pressing the front and back creases sharp4 ,then remove the iron and sponge cloths1 then slap with the back of the brush to refreshen and brighten the cloth or garment4 ,now turn the leg over and press other side in the same manner2 then turn leg over to inside as at first and bring the left leg down to meet the right bottom4 ,turn trousers over1 and then turn the right leg back1 and proceed to press the left inside leg the same as right4 ,turn left leg over and press outside4 ,now turn left leg over to inside as at first1 bringing the right leg down to meet the left at the bottom1 then have both legs lying perfectly even on top of each other4 ,press them together from fly or seat line1 down to the bottom4 ,turn trousers over1 and press other side in the same manner1 using the back of brush for slapping and face to brush nap of cloth4 ,then place the press-jack on the table again1 with the small end pointing to the right1 then draw the right bottom of the leg over the small end of press-jack1 and press crease out through the turn up4 ,do this at the front and back about two inches from the bottom4 ,now press the bottom of left leg the same way4 ,some customers do not want this crease taken out1 then of course it is to be left in4 ,but custom-made trousers are usually not pressed through the turn up4 ,this completes the pressing of trousers1 place on hangers before wearing or delivering4 ,by practice1 one may soon become an expert4 ,broadfalls are pressed in the same way4 ,examine for gloss1 and if any1 remove as explained4 ,,lesson ,,vi4 ,,selection ,,of ,,material4 ,amount required1 for suits1 vests1 trousers1 overcoats1 dress suits and ,prince ,albert suits1 ,tuxedos1 ,paddock1 ,paletot2 also ladies' waists1 jackets 7long and short71 and skirts4 ,the amount of material required to reline coats1 vests1 and top of trousers2 ladies' coats and jackets2 velvet collars and silk facings4 ,amount of goods required for the following garments3 ,sack ,suits--#cf to #db inches breast measure1 #c yards1 #ed inches wide4 ,cutaway or ,morning ,suit--#cf to #db inches breast measure1 #c yards1 #ed inches wide4 ,prince ,albert ,suit--#cf to #db inches breast measure1 #c yards1 #ed inches wide4 ,tuxedo ,suit--#cf to #db inches breast measure1 #c yards1 #ed inches wide4 ,dress ,suit--#cf to #db inches breast measure1 #c yards1 #ed inches wide4 ,sack ,overcoat--#cf to #db inches breast measure1 #db inches long1 #b yards1 #ed inches wide4 ,trousers--#cj to #db inches waist measure1 #cf to #db seat measure1 #cj to #cd inside leg measure1 #a yards4 ,vests--#cf to #db inches breast measure1 #a yard1 #ed inches wide4 ,paddock or ,palitot--#cf to #db inches breast measure1 #d yards1 #ed inches wide4 ,ladies' ,shirt ,waist--#cj to #dj inches bust measure1 #c yards1 #bg inches wide4 ,ladies' ,jackets and ,coats 7short7--#cj to #dj inches bust measure1 #b yards1 #ed inches wide4 ,ladies' ,jackets and ,coats 7long7--#cj to #dj inches bust measure1 #d yards1 #ed inches wide4 ,ladies' ,skirts--#bj to #db inches waist measure1 #dj to #dd inches long1 #d yards1 #ed inches wide4 ,amount of goods required to reline the following garments3 ,sack or ,tuxedo ,coat--#b yards1 #cb inch or #a yards1 #ed inches wide4 ,serge1 ,alpaca1 ,italian cloth1 or silk1 to match4 #a yard fancy sateen sleeve lining4 ,overcoats--#db inches long1 #b yards1 #cb inches wide or #b yards1 #ed inches wide4 ,serge1 ,italian cloth1 or ,circassian4 #a yards satin sleeve lining1 #bj inches wide4 ,or #a yard1 #dj inch ,lusterene sleeve lining4 ,overcoats1 ,silk or ,satin ,lined ,throughout--,require from #d to #e yards4 ,vests-- yard1 #cb or #ed inches wide4 ,serge1 ,alpaca1 ,italian cloth or silk1 for outside back4 #a yard #bj inch fancy sateen1 for inside body lining4 ,trousers-- yard #bj inch colored sateen1 for waist band lining4 ,dress ,coats--,prince ,alberts1 #c yards #cj inch silk1 for the former1 and #d yards1 for the latter4 ,tuxedo ,facing--#a yard heavy corded or fancy weave silk4 ,dress or ,prince ,albert 7fancy7--#g_/h yard heavy corded or fancy weave silk4 ,velvet ,collars for ,overcoats--vary in width from #d to #f inches wide on the bias4 ,this may be determined when velvet collar is ripped off by measuring width4 ,when new buttons are required1 replace with as near as possible to the original4 ,when using silk1 and buttonhole twist1 match cloth as near as can be had4 ,,lesson ,,vii4 ,,care ,,of ,,clothes4 ,under this lesson is explained the care of clothes4 ,how to keep them looking fresh and clean4 ,how to be well dressed4 ,care of clothes3 ,cleaning1 brushing1 repairing and pressing frequently is a step in the right channel1 for a man's appearance depends largely upon the care he takes of his clothes4 ,clothes should be brushed often especially after being worn in the dust and dirt1 and should be hung up in a clean place where they will be out of the dust4 ,coats and vest should always be placed on coat hangers together to retain their shape1 and to be ready for wear when wanted4 ,the loop at the back of the coat collar1 should never be used to hang coats up by but for a few minutes1 as the weight of garments will pull the collar out of shape4 ,trousers after being brushed thoroughly1 should be turned inside out1 and placed on hangers1 by doing this you are reversing the folds and wrinkles that have formed while wearing1 thereby allowing the cloth to fall back into place4 ,it is impossible to prevent trousers bagging at the knees1 but may be prevented in this way4 ,fasten a piece of silk to the forepart of trousers on the inside to both leg seams across top and bottom of silk1 seven inches above and ten inches below the knee1 being careful when sewing not to let the stitches show through on the out side4 ,another suggestion and a good one1 is to buy two pairs trousers with each suit 7except a dress suit1 then it is not necessary7 and wear them alternately1 two days at a time1 and have them pressed each time you change1 and turned inside out each night4 ,it is a good idea to have a row of hooks at the top of one's wardrobe from which to hang these forms1 thereby saving much space especially in the smaller houses4 ,care should be taken to draw trousers up well when wearing1 so that they will set properly4 ,when trousers are worn without suspenders1 they must be cut shorter waisted1 shorter in the legs and closer around the waist4 ,if one wears suspenders it is a luxury to have a pair for each pair of trousers4 ,then when one adjustment is made saves any further bother4 ,brushing clothes is a very simple but necessary operation1 a fact which few people thoroughly appreciate4 ,fine clothes require brushing lightly with a soft brush1 except when mud is to be removed1 then a stiff brush should be used1 after garment has been lightly beaten to loosen the dirt4 ,never use a whisk broom to brush clothes as they injure the fibre of the cloth4 ,when brushing lay the coat on a table1 and brush in the direction of the thread or nap of the fabric4 ,a well made1 well fitting garment should not be thrown away when slightly worn1 but should be repaired1 cleaned and pressed4 ,many times lasting as long after being repaired as at first4 ,unless absolutely necessary never patch1 when darning will answer the purpose better4 ,if the garment is not too badly worn baste a piece of cloth1 the same as the material in the garment 7or as near as possible7 under the weakened part and darn to this piece4 ,one may back stitch with silk to match the cloth1 or make a small running stitch4 ,when the entire part has been thoroughly darned1 turn the garment inside out and herringbone all around the piece of cloth 7or patch to the inside7 being careful not to allow stitches to show through on the outside4 ,press and they are ready for wear4 ,this is especially good when repairing the seat of trousers4 ,tape is invaluable in repairing1 as it may be used to strengthen weak places and where buttons are to be sewed1 acting as a stay1 also saving time of turning the edges of the cloth in1 and is less clumsy4 ,ruskin says1 ,clothes carefully cared for1 and rightly worn1 show a balance of mind and respect4 ,the freshness of a garment depends upon the care taken of it1 and only requires a few minutes each time they are taken off2 they should be carefully brushed1 to remove all dust and dirt1 removing all spots1 buttons sewed on and replaced when worn1 new braid on the bottoms of skirts1 cleaning and pressing1 making little necessary alterations4 ,all these little duties given proper attention1 will keep a wardrobe fresh and in good order4 ,it is not always the wear on the clothes1 that tell so sadly upon them4 ,it is the care that they receive4 ,a few garments1 well made and properly fitted1 and good care taken of them1 is far more preferable than a number of inferior quality and make4 ,when clothing is laid away for another season1 they should first be thoroughly brushed1 repaired1 cleaned and pressed1 to be ready for wear when needed4 ,if placed in bags or boxes1 the moth preventative should be sprinkled over freely4 ,tailors' boxes are very good to place garments in1 that are not in use1 and should be labeled on the outside as to the contents4 ,fold all articles on the seams1 if possible1 being careful when folding sleeves and collars4 ,coat lapels should be turned to lie flat2 collars turned up1 and the coat folded in the center back seam1 sleeves lying together and on top of each other4 ,then fold in half crosswise1 and place in the box4 ,if fancy waists and coats are put in drawers1 fill the sleeves with tissue paper4 ,this will prevent wrinkling4 ,to be well dressed1 one's clothes must be of good material and fit well4 ,the length of waist1 and full length should be in proportion to the wearer1 or as near fashion as good taste will permit4 ,sleeve the right length1 and hang properly1 and to come to the root of the thumb4 ,the collar must fit close around the neck1 the lapels should be neat and even1 the opening in front should close without bulging when buttoned1 and should have no cross wrinkles under the back of arms1 and no wrinkles below the collar4 ,the whole appearance of the garment must be easy1 the chest should be of the athletic style 7chesty71 while the waist should be close fitting and flat 7not tight74 ,the arm hole should not be too deep so that the coat will remain in its proper position while sitting as when standing4 ,the buttonholes must be neat1 and the buttons sewed on good and strong with neck4 ,the overcoat should be easy1 not clumsy1 and of fashionable length1 sleeves to cover the under coat1 and to fit close around the neck 7sleeves of a rain coat may be longer than those of an ordinary overcoat71 and must be the same length at front and back at bottom4 ,a vest should fit easy to allow the body to slip up and down1 whether sitting or stooping1 more especially the former4 ,a great many people make the mistake by having their vests made snug4 ,one will never get a good fitting vest in this way4 ,a vest should come up close around the collar1 and high enough1 so that it will not crawl under the linen collar1 this may be avoided by having a good tailor make one's clothes4 ,trousers should be the proper length1 and of ample size over the hips1 knee1 and to fall gracefully over the shoe at the bottom1 7some wear them very short with cuff or ,french bottoms1 this is a style for college towns1 and is not universal47 ,the waist should be the proper height and size around1 7for trousers worn without suspenders1 the waist must fit closer and cut shorter waisted74 ,stout men do not want their trousers very long waisted and up under their arms1 therefore great care must be taken when selecting1 cutting and making stout men's trousers4 ,when trying on a pair of trousers1 or in fact any garment1 stand before the mirror in one's natural position1 do not twist and turn1 and cause wrinkles to form all over the garment1 and when looking at the trousers1 look at them in the mirror2 do not look down upon them as many do1 and often condemn a good fitting pair of trousers1 because by stooping and looking down1 wrinkles appear that when standing natural1 hang smooth and straight4 ,,lesson ,,viii4 ,,folding ,,clothes4 ,how to fold coats1 vests1 trousers1 ladies' jackets1 coats and skirts4 ,how to place each garment in boxes for storing1 delivering1 shipping1 the marking names and addresses on same4 ,how to fold all kinds of coats1 for delivery1 traveling1 storing1 or shipping4 ,turn sleeves back to the collar1 so that the folds come at the bend of the elbow1 now turn the lapels and fronts back over the folded sleeves1 then fold the skirts over and up level with the collar1 so that the crease will fold about the center of the garment1 then double one-half over the other so that the folds come in the center back seam4 ,to fold vests3 ,place two foreparts together right side out1 having the edges and side seams even and on top of each other1 then fold back over fronts of vest so that back seam lays perpendicular with the front edge1 straighten wrinkles out of shoulder4 ,then fold neck1 or collar down level with the bottom1 so that the crease will fold about the center of the garment1 or bottom of arm hole4 ,to fold trousers3 ,place two top suspender buttons together and front creases at bottoms even and on top of each other up and down the leg1 lay smooth on the table1 then fold backs over on fronts to meet front creases and taper to nothing1 to about six inches above the knee1 then fold legs1 bringing the bottoms up level with the top of trousers1 so that bend will come about the knee or half the entire length of trousers4 ,then place in box for delivery4 ,if1 however1 trousers are to be placed in a paper package for delivery1 or to be folded small for packing1 the following is an easy method1 when backs are folded over to meet the front creases1 and legs are lying smooth on the table1 divide the entire length of the trousers in three parts making two folds1 one three inches below the seat line or fork1 the other about fifteen inches from the bottom1 place in paper to deliver4 ,when a suit is to be placed in a box for delivery1 lay trousers in first1 7folded as first explained71 the vest next and the coat last1 place cover on box1 and wrap with heavy cord to hold top and bottom together1 also for convenience when carrying4 ,ladies' jackets and coats are folded the same as men's1 either short or long4 ,ladies' skirts are folded in this manner1 if plain1 take front of waist band in the right hand1 and with the left find center front of skirt at bottom1 lay on table and fold front over to meet the center back seam of skirt1 then fold double and place in box or package1 for delivery4 ,when skirt is plaited see that the plaits lay in the proper creases1 and fold as explained above1 being careful not to make too small a package so as not to crush4 ,the firm name should be printed on the cover of the box together with these words1 ,please unpack and place on hangers as soon as received4 ,this prevents clothes from wrinkling badly4 ,the customer's name and address should be written plainly in the space left for that purpose on the cover of the box4 ,when sending a package by express or other carrying companies1 it is best to mark the value of the contents of the package on the cover4 ,,lesson ,,ix4 ,,testing ,,woolen ,,cloth ,,and ,,silk4 ,testing woolen cloth and silk3 ,the great value of wool as a fibre1 lies in the fact that it is strong1 elastic1 soft and very susceptible to dye stuffs1 and being woven1 furnishes a great number of air spaces1 thereby rendering clothing made from it very warm and light4 ,wool may be dissolved completely by a warm solution of caustic soda4 ,cloth may be tested by unravelling a corner of a piece of cloth1 lighting it with a match4 ,if the flame runs along1 and goes out1 leaving a brown ash1 and is smooth when rubbed between the thumb and finger1 it contains cotton4 ,if it burns and curls up into a ball at the end1 and goes out1 and the ashes black like charcoal1 and is gritty when rubbed between the thumb and finger1 it is a pretty sure indication1 that it is all wool4 ,the strength of a piece of cloth1 may be tested by a thread removed from the goods1 by holding one end with the right hand1 and the other with the left4 ,pull1 and if it breaks off short1 it is not a strong piece of goods1 and would not wear well2 but if it pulls out long and stringy1 and upon examination one finds the fiber from one to two inches long1 this may be considered a good piece of goods1 and would wear well4 ,silk may be tested by unravelling an end1 and burning the threads4 ,if the ash is brown and is smooth when rubbed between the thumb and finger1 this would not be considered pure dye silk4 ,if1 however1 when lighted1 it curls up into a ball at the end1 and goes out1 and the ash black and when rubbed between the thumb and finger1 and is gritty like charcoal1 one may feel sure that it is pure dye stuff and will give excellent wear and will not crack4 ,,lesson ,x4 ,,price ,,list ,,for ,,cleaning ,,and ,,pressing4 ,,repairing ,,and ,,relining ,,extra4 ,price list for cleaning and pressing the following garments4 ,repairing and relining extra3 ,business ,suits1 ,tuxedos ,suits1 ,dress ,suits1 ,overcoats1 ,ladies' ,coats and ,jackets1 #a4jj and upwards4 ,single ,vests and ,trousers1 #be;c4 each and upward4 ,ladies' ,skirts1 #ge cents and upward4 ,coats1 all kinds1 steam or dry cleaned1 #a4jj extra4 ,ladies' ,coats1 ,jackets and ,skirts1 steam or dry cleaned #a4jj extra4 ,vests and ,trousers1 #ej cents extra4 ,overcoats1 all kinds1 steam or dry cleaned1 #a4jj to #b4jj extra4 ,relining ,coats1 #c4jj and upward2 ,vests1 #a4be and upward4 ,new ,waist ,band ,lining for ,trousers1 #ge;c4 and upward4 ,new ,velvet ,collars1 #a4ej and upward4 ,single ,velvet ,collars to buy1 cost from #ej cents upward4 ,new ,silk ,facings1 #c4jj and upward per yard4 ,body ,lining costs from #ej cents upward per yard4 ,sateen ,sleeve and ,vest ,lining costs from #be cents upward per yard4 ,silk and ,satin ,linings cost from #b4jj and upward per yard4 ,velvet by the yard costs from #c4jj upward4 ,workmen are usually paid from #bj cents to #cj cents per hour4 ,customers are usually charged #ej cents per hour for time required to do the work4 ,all work done must be figured by the time required to do the work4 ,,lesson ,,xi4 ,,how ,,to ,,dress ,,and ,,what ,,to ,,wear4 ,how to dress well4 ,the first thought to consider in supplying our wardrobe1 is the material4 ,let it be of good quality4 ,cheap stuff is never good unless it is good quality at a low price4 ,one good suit of clothes1 or dress1 gives better satisfaction 7in lasting qualities1 appearance and general makeup7 than two suits at the same price4 ,a well selected piece of goods1 tailored by a reliable tailor1 always looks well1 and may be kept repaired1 cleaned and pressed into shape occasionally1 a fact that few men properly understand4 ,while the low priced suit never has the look of that of a well fitted tailored suit1 and cannot be kept looking as neat4 ,made to order garments are always fitted and made better 7if by a reliable maker74 ,in this way1 one has the privilege of trying on and be fitted2 then when a perfect pattern has been made for you1 your future garments may be made from that pattern 7changing the style of course1 but keeping the fitting points the same as the pattern47 ,men and women have their individual peculiarities1 such as one shoulder low1 or one may be sloping shouldered1 another square1 erect and stooping1 etc4 ,all these different variations must be taken into consideration when making custom made garments 7or garments made to one's individual measurements71 and all well dressed men and women should have their garments made to order4 ,they are more easily cleaned1 pressed and repaired1 for their building and make up has been studied and put together by skilled mechanics4 ,men of limited capital who do not wish to spend much money on dress1 should wear dark materials for suitings4 ,dark morning suits may be worn on many occasions when a light suit would be bad taste4 ,fashion should be followed1 but avoid extremes4 ,the wrinkles and bags at the knees should be pressed out frequently4 ,close woven cloth keeps its shape in garments better4 ,the vest should always be buttoned4 ,remove buttons on all garments as soon as they show sign of wearing1 and replace with new4 ,skirted coats and vests should be made to fit closely around the waist1 and loose over the chest to give the wearer that athletic appearance4 ,this tends to make the wearer stand straighter4 ,on the other hand1 if a coat or vest is tight over the chest1 it tends to make the wearer stoop4 ,the carriage of men who do not wear suspenders1 is generally better than those who wear them4 ,when a single breasted coat or vest is too tight across the chest1 in many cases it is beyond remedy1 as the tailor cannot add anything to the front after the garment is completed4 ,double breasted coats and vests1 however1 are different1 on these2 the buttons may be moved a trifle toward the front edge1 thereby giving more breathing room over the chest1 which is very much needed1 and adds to the appearance of the garment4 ,single breasted sack overcoats1 with fly front1 are most desirable from every point of view4 ,the man of taste and refinement always selects dark1 quiet colors for his overcoats4 ,men of taste who carry canes1 select those that are strong1 plain1 light and small4 ,large canes are in very bad taste for young men4 ,a white necktie should never be worn except with a full dress suit1 save by clergymen1 and a few elderly men who never wear any other color4 ,a high silk hat should not be worn with a sack suit4 ,a low hat should not be worn with a double breasted frock or ,prince ,albert4 ,straw hats should not be worn1 only with light summer suits4 ,dark suits are preferred on ,sundays1 especially in town1 and light suits should never be worn to church anywhere4 ,double breasted frock coats should be made of black or grey materials4 ,at small informal gatherings1 most men consider themselves sufficiently dressed when they wear black frock coats and dark trousers4 ,it is not necessary for men to wear dress suits where ladies are required to be in full dress4 ,at public entertainments1 restaurants and cafes1 for example1 where the ladies wear their bonnets1 the man who wears a black frock coat1 dark trousers1 and light kid gloves1 is better dressed2 because more appropriately1 than he1 who wears a full dress suit4 ',tis true1 the practice of wearing such a suit occasions additional expense1 as otherwise a business suit1 or walking suit1 and a dress suit may be made to serve all occasions4 ,when at home1 every man goes in for comfort1 however it will be well to remember that it is not polite to appear at the table1 whether they are strangers or not1 or will show himself to any one with whom he is not on a familiar footing1 in his shirt sleeves4 ,a gentleman for an evening visit1 should always be in evening dress4 ,dress coat1 vest and trousers1 white linen and white cravat 7a black cravat is permissible1 but not in full dress47 ,for a dinner party1 ball or opera1 a man must wear a white cravat4 ,watch fob is very fashionable4 ,on ,sunday afternoons and evening at home1 gentlemen are permitted to wear frock coats1 and to regard the day as an off one1 unless invited to a grand dinner1 then you must wear the dress suit4 ,men are always ungloved1 except when riding or driving4 ,colored shirts and flannel shirts are worn in the morning1 often until the dinner hour in the summer1 and it is proper to go to an informal breakfast in the informal dress of the tennis ground4 ,for a formal luncheon1 a man must dress himself in black frock coat1 a colored necktie1 and grey or drab stripe trousers1 and white shirt4 ,for lawn tennis1--flannel shirts1 rough coats1 knickerbockers1 long grey1 woolen stockings1 and string shoes4 ,simplicity1 neatness1 and fitness mark the gentleman4 ,good clothes1 manners1 breeding1 and education1 admit one to the better circles of society4 ,it is not sufficient to do as others do1 but we must dress as they do when we go out in the world4 ,he is best dressed1 whose dress attracts least attention1 and in order to attract attention1 one's dress must be seasonable1 appropriate1 and conform to the prevailing fashion1 without going to extreme1 and to appear comfortable4 ,evening ,dress3--,for all formal events after six o'clock1 balls1 formal dinners1 opera and theater1 receptions and weddings4 ,overcoat--,chesterfield1 ,inverness1 or ,skirted4 ,coat--,evening dress coat4 ,waistcoat--,white or black1 single or double breasted4 ,ribbed silk1 or flowered patterns of satin and silk4 ,trousers--,to match coat1 outside seam trimmed with silk braid1 fitting a trifle closer over the hips than for ordinary wear1 medium width knees and bottoms4 ,shirts and ,cuffs--,plain white1 ruffled or plaited bosoms1 corded stripes1 attached cuffs1 domestic finish4 ,collars--,standing1 ,poke or lap front4 ,neckwear--,white corded stripe or lawn1 string with broad round ends4 ,gloves--,white or ,pearl1 ,grey glace1 one button1 self-stitched4 ,jewelry--,plain or ,moonstone studs1 and links4 ,hat--,silk1 cloth band or opera for theater4 ,shoes--,varnished calfskin or patent leather button tops or patent leather ties for balls4 ,style--,peaked broad lapels1 rolling to waist with two buttons on each side1 natural shoulders1 chesty effect4 ,material--,undressed worsted1 ,english twill or shadow-stripe1 in black or dark blue4 ,informal3--,evening dress1 for all informal occasions1 club1 stag1 and at home dinners1 theaters and informal dinners4 ,coat--,evening jacket1 ,tuxedo4 ,waist coat--,to match coat1 dove grey2 black corded silk for winter1 white for summer1 single or double breasted1 opening cut ,v shaped4 ,trousers--,to match coat4 ,shirts--,plaited1 or may be of soft or negligee style4 ,attached cuffs1 domestic finish4 ,collars--,high band1 fold or wing4 ,neckwear--,string1 fancy figured1 black or grey ground with black figures1 or to match material in waist coat1 knot drawn tight1 and wide ends4 ,gloves--,grey1 ,suede1 or tan4 ,jewelry--,to match buttons of waist coat1 dull chased gold stud1 links1 watch fob and seal4 ,hat--,soft or derby4 ,shoes--,patent or enamel leather1 button tops1 or ties4 ,style--,chesty effect1 shoulders trifle wider than natural1 shawl collar or peaked lapels rolling low and fronts well cut away below bottom button4 ,material--,plain or striped unfinished worsted1 black1 dark1 blue or ,oxford4 ,informal ,day ,dress3--,for ordinary occasions1 before six o'clock and ,sundays4 ,overcoat--,chesterfield4 ,coat--,morning or ,cutaway4 ,waist coat--,to match coat1 single or double breasted1 or quiet pattern of fancy vestings4 ,trousers--,dark narrow grey or light stripe worsted or cassimere4 ,shirts and ,cuffs--,plain white1 attached cuffs4 ,collar--,poke lap front or wing4 ,neckwear--,ascot1 once over or four-in-hand in somber effects4 ,gloves--,tan or grey4 ,jewelry--,gold links and studs1 scarfpin1 with watch guard4 ,hat--,high silk4 ,shoes--,varnished calfskin1 patent leather1 button tops and light colored spats4 ,style--,chesty1 effect1 oval lapels1 with concave edge1 shoulders trifle wider than natural1 and wadding on extreme points1 to give square effect2 roll low4 ,material--,unfinished worsted1 diagonal or plain ,vicuna4 ,day ,dress3--,for all occasions1 before six o'clock2 afternoon calls1 church1 day weddings1 receptions1 and matinees4 ,overcoat--,chesterfield4 ,coat--,morning frock1 for informal1 double breasted frock or ,prince ,albert for formal occasions4 ,waist ,coat--,double or single breasted1 to match the coat1 or quiet fancy vesting1 avoiding extremes4 ,trousers--,dark narrow stripe worsted1 moderately close fitting with slight hip fullness4 ,shirt and ,cuffs--,plain white1 round or square cornered1 attached cuffs4 ,collar--,poke1 lap front or wing4 ,neckwear--,ascot1 black or white effect1 once over1 white or ,pearl4 ,gloves--,brown1 light tan1 self-figured1 closed with one button4 ,jewelry--,gold links1 and studs1 gold watch guard1 and scarfpin4 ,hat--,high silk1 cloth band4 ,shoes--,varnished calfskin1 or patent leather1 button top with light colored spats4 ,style--,chesty effect1 oval lapels1 with small rounded corners1 roll low1 shoulders trifle wider than natural1 raising extreme points with wadding4 ,material--,unfinished worsted1 or diagonal1 in black or ,oxford4 ,morning and ,business ,dress3--,for general wear during business hours4 ,overcoat--,chesterfield1 ,newmarket1 ,covert or top coat4 ,coat--,sack or morning4 ,waist ,coat--,single breasted1 with or without a collar1 to match coat or fancy vesting4 ,trousers--,to match coat1 or striped worsted or cassimere with morning coat4 ,shirts and ,cuffs--,white or colored shirt1 stiff or soft bosom1 attached cuffs4 ,collars--,wing or high band turndown4 ,neckwear--,once over1 ,ascot1 four-in-hand or ,imperial4 ,gloves--,tan or grey4 ,jewelry--,gold links and studs1 scarfpin and watch guard4 ,hats--,derby or ,alpine with sacks1 high silk or derby with morning coat4 ,shoes--,calfskin1 high or low cut4 ,style--,single or double breasted for sacks1 chesty athletic effect1 two or three buttons1 morning or ,english walking coat with flaps on side4 ,material--,fancy suitings for sacks4 ,plain or fancy weave for morning coats4 ,blue1 brown or grey mixtures for sacks2 grey or ,oxford for morning dress4 ,seashore and ,lounging ,dress3--,for summer wear only4 ,coat--,norfolk or lounge coat4 ,belt--,pig or monkey skin4 ,trousers--,to match coat or fancy stripe flannel4 ,shirts--,colored negligee1 cuffs attached1 ,madras or ,oxford4 ,collar--,fold collar4 ,neckwear--,four-in-hand1 or soft silk tie4 ,jewelry--,scarfpin1 gold links1 stud buttons4 ,hats--,straw1 ,alpine or golf cap4 ,shoes--,low shoes of calfskin4 ,style--,norfolk coat1 skeleton lined1 single or double breasted sack4 ,material--,tropical worsted or ,tweed1 flannel ,shetland or homespun4 ,brown1 grey and mixtures4 ,outing ,dress3--,for golf and other sports3 ,overcoats--,peajacket1 short ,covert or top coat4 ,coat--,norfolk jacket or lounge coat4 ,waist ,coat--,double breasted1 with or without collar1 to match coat1 flannel or fancy knit4 ,trousers--,knickerbockers1 for fall and winter1 striped flannel1 ,tweed or homespun matching coat for spring and summer4 ,shirts--,colored negligee1 cuffs attached1 ,madras or ,oxford sweater4 ,collar--,soft fold1 self-collar or stock4 ,neckwear--,tie or stock4 ,gloves--,tan or chamois1 wool knit1 heavy golfing gloves4 ,jewelry--,scarfpin1 links1 with watch guard4 ,hat--,soft felt or cap4 ,shoes--,calf or russet4 ,style--,norfolk with box plaits1 yoke and belt or plain sack1 chesty effect4 ,material--,tweeds1 flannel1 or homespun1 brown1 grey and mixtures4 ,driving or ,motoring ,dress3 ,overcoat--,burberry of wax waterproof cloth1 or duster of linen or rubber silk4 ,coat--,norfolk or double breasted sack4 ,waist ,coat--,matching coat1 flannel or fancy knit4 ,trousers--,knickerbockers or trousers of flannel1 ,tweed or homespun1 matching coat2 breeches and leggings for motoring4 ,shirts--,fancy flannel4 ,cheviot or ,madras sweater1 soft4 ,collar--,soft fold self-collar or stock4 ,neckwear--,stock or tie4 ,gloves--,tan or chamois1 soft cape gauntlets1 tan or black for the motor car4 ,jewelry--,links1 scarfpin and watch guard4 ,hat--,soft felt or cap1 ,french chauffeur cap with leather visor for motoring4 ,shoes--,calfskin or russet with leggins for automobiling4 ,style--,semi-,norfolk jacket of wax 7waterproof7 cloth4 ,material--,tweed1 flannel or homespun1 ,oxford1 grey or tan4 ,women's ,dress3 ,formal dress1 for all occasions after six o'clock--weddings1 receptions1 formal dinners1 theater and balls1 high neck1 long skirt1 hat1 coat1 and gloves1 and evening slippers4 ,for morning and afternoon wear1 the tailor made suit with short skirt2 for afternoon1 the long skirt1 hat1 high dress walking boot1 patent leather1 lace or button with cloth tops4 ,for outing wear1 the coat sweater for skating1 golfing1 and hockey4 ,for misses' and children's dresses made of the same material1 short skirts2 the coats may cover the dress1 or may be three-quarters or seven-eighths long1 may be single or double breasted1 to button high around the neck or roll low4 ,for house wear1 the plain tailored shirt waist suit in becoming colors are good form4 ,for school and street wear1 the short skirt1 coat three-quarters or seven-eighths long and made of rough material is the more stylish1 and is made in a variety of styles4 ,gloves for evening wear1 ,suede1 ,mousquetaire1 elbow and above2 length arranging in buttons from eight to twenty-four4 ,in tan1 mode1 slate1 pearl1 lavender1 yellow1 black1 and white4 ,walking gloves1 ,havana1 ,smyrna1 tan1 oak and mahogany1 with two or three buttons1 clasps4 ,auto gauntlets1 buck and cape skin gauntlets in slate1 oak and black4 ,for automobiling1 double and single breasted long loose coats1 made in a variety of styles1 water and dust proof1 plain or fancy trimmed1 with wind cuffs inside of sleeves1 with velvet collars and cuffs4 ,material used are rubber faced goods1 ,mohairs1 ,chambrays1 ,satins1 ,oxfords and ,tan plaids1 changeable silks and ,crepe de ,chines4 ,when selecting goods for dresses or jackets1 bear in mind that stripes lengthen1 plaids1 checks and light materials broaden1 and enlarge the person's appearance4 ,boys' and youths' clothing from four to eighteen4 ,the materials used for boys' suits1 include all the staple cloths1 such as unfinished worsteds in stripes and plaids1 tweeds1 dark and blue serge1 plain cheviots1 and ,scotch mixtures1 homespun and corduroy4 ,the sailor suit is more suitable for the younger boy1 and may be made of various materials1 such as white1 blue1 and brown serge or cheviot1 and trimmed with braid in a variety of styles1 as occasion require and surroundings permit4 ,the most favorite style for the boy who has outgrown the sailor suit1 is the ,norfolk coat1 single or double breasted1 with double or single box plaits1 made with or without straight or pointed yoke4 ,the next in popularity1 comes the double or single breasted sack coat2 with this and the above1 bloomers may be worn1 finished at the knee with a buckled band4 ,the straight trousers are much worn and preferred by some boys1 and are considered more dressy when worn with a plaited skirt bosom with attached cuffs1 pointed ,eaton collar1 and a narrow four-in-hand scarf and patent or dull leather shoes4 ,for every day wear1 the plain negligee shirt with yoke back and attached cuffs are worn4 ,with this style shirt1 the younger boys from eight to twelve1 wear the stiff linen or soft white pique1 ,eaton collar with round or square corners1 or a turn down collar of which the latter is most popular4 ,the ,windsor bow or the narrow four-in-hand scarf may be worn with the ,eaton collar4 ,for outing1 a soft flannel negligee style made perfectly plain1 with straight attached or the new turn back cuffs1 a soft turn down collar attached to the shirt is preferred by some1 while others wear the separate linen collar1 and have the neck band finished plain4 ,this style of white turndown collar may be worn on all occasions until the age of eighteen1 at which time1 he may wear almost any style on the maturer man1 providing his size will permit4 ,the plaited shirt bosom is the more dressy style1 and may be of white or light colors1 with stripes and figures or in solid colors4 ,young boys do not wear attached cuffs until they are twelve years old1 and only then if full grown4 ,for small parties1 dancing classes or weddings1 a boy under sixteen may wear a dark blue serge double breasted sack suit or the ,norfolk style with bloomers or straight trousers4 ,a plain white or finely striped white plaited shirt with turn-over collar and dark narrow four-in-hand scarf is in good taste with dull leather or patent leather ,oxfords4 ,boys' overgarments3--,for boys up to twelve1 wear the straight double breasted box overcoat2 for the older boy1 they may be semi-fitting and slightly tapering at the waist1 and medium length2 storm coats are very long and much box1 the materials include fancy ,tweeds1 ,diagonals1 ,cheviots1 ,beaver and ,kerseys4 ,at the age of fifteen or sixteen1 a boy will require a more distinctive type of evening dress1 and for these1 the ,tuxedo or ,dinner ,coat is most recommended4 ,the ,tuxedo or ,dinner ,suit may be made of unfinished worsted1 diagonal1 twills1 in black or dark blue1 with pointed lapels or shawn collar1 silk or satin faced to the edge1 and finished with one button4 ,a black or grey vest may be worn with black tie1 but if the occasion be very formal1 a white vest and white tie may be substituted1 with patent leather pumps4 ,after a boy has reached the age of eighteen or nineteen1 he may adopt the styles of men in scarfs1 waist coats1 evening clothes1 gloves1 etc4 ,,lesson ,,xii4 ,,business ,,etiquette4 ,business etiquette4 ,your duty to your customer requires you to treat them with respect1 to do the work to the best of your ability1 to give them the best work of your head and hands1 and to treat your customers with politeness to show a disposition to please and be a lady or gentleman at all times4 ,be independent1 but not impertinent4 ,do your best to please your customers4 ,never promise to have garments finished at a given time unless you intend to have them finished at the time promised1 and never disappoint a customer if it can possibly be avoided4 ,never misrepresent4 ,a reputation for integrity is of almost or quite as much value in your business as a reputation for skill and taste4 ,your most valuable customers are refined ladies and gentlemen2 you will do well therefore to bear in mind that gentlemen love gentlemen4 ,do not breathe in a customer's face4 ,dress well1 and let your linen be clean2 your garments kept well cleaned1 pressed and repaired4 ,your appearance is a part of your capital in the way of getting business4 ,when you have garments that have been ready for customers one month1 notify them1 saying that you will hold them for thirty days longer4 ,say that in the meantime you wish they would call for them4 ,everything for the cleaning1 repairing and pressing of clothes may be had at this office4 ,send samples or explanation of what is required and price list will be forwarded to any address4 ,these goods are sold at the lowest possible margin of profit for handling same1 and only to those of our students who have bought the method4 ,the following is a partial list of what may be had3 ,press-jacks1 tables1 irons1 sponge cloths prepared1 brushes1 scissors1 sewing machines1 mirrors1 desks1 chairs1 coat1 vest1 trouser1 jacket1 and skirt hangers1 racks to hang clothes on1 chalk1 needles1 thimbles1 tape measures1 basting cotton1 linen thread1 silk thread1 buttonhole twist1 buttons for coats1 vests and trousers to match cloth4 ,sleeve linings for undercoats1 vests1 overcoats1 waist band lining for trousers1 for ladies' jackets and coats4 ,all kinds of silk and satins for body linings1 heavy silk facings1 for ,tuxedos1 ,prince ,alberts1 and dress coats2 velvet collars1 any size1 silesias1 sateens1 rubber tissue1 buckles1 haircloth1 canvas1 beeswax1 cleaning fluids1 moth preventative1 and anything used by the cleaner and presser4 99 99 99 99 99 ,transcriber's ,note3 99 ,apparent spelling and printer's errors normalised4 99 ,text enclosed between equal signs was in bold face in the original 7bold74 99 ,index had entries for pages #bj and #ba 7including page numbers7 reversed in the original4