,,deadfalls ,,and ,,snares ,frontispiece3 ,a ,,good ,,deadfall4 ,,deadfalls ,,and ,,snares ,a ,book of ,instruction for ,trappers ,about ,these and ,other ,home-,made ,traps ,edited by ,a4 ,r4 ,,harding ,published by ,a4 ,r4 ,,harding1 ,publisher #ajf ,walnut ,street ,st4 ,louis1 ,mo4 ,copyright #aijg ,by ,a4 ,r4 ,,harding ,,contents4 ,i4 ,building ,deadfalls ,,ii4 ,bear and ,coon ,deadfall ,,iii4 ,otter ,deadfall ,,iv4 ,marten ,deadfall ,v4 ,stone ,deadfall ,,vi4 ,the ,bear ,pen ,,vii4 ,portable ,traps ,,viii4 ,some ,triggers ,,ix4 ,trip ,triggers ,x4 ,how to ,set ,,xi4 ,when to ,build ,,xii4 ,where to ,build ,,xiii4 ,the ,proper ,bait ,,xiv4 ,traps ,knocked ,off ,,xv4 ,spring ,pole ,snare ,,xvi4 ,trail ,set ,snare ,,xvii4 ,bait ,set ,snare ,,xviii4 ,the ,box ,trap ,,xix4 ,the ,coop ,trap ,,xx4 ,the ,pit ,trap ,,xxi4 ,number of ,traps ,,xxii4 ,when to ,trap ,,xxiii4 ,season's ,catch ,,xxiv4 ,general ,information ,,xxv4 ,skinning and ,stretching ,,xxvi4 ,handling and ,grading ,,xxvii4 ,from ,animal to ,market ,,xxviii4 ,steel ,traps ,,list ,,of ,,illustrations4 ,a ,good ,deadfall ,the ,pole ,deadfall ,small ,animal ,fall ,the ,pinch ,head ,board or ,pole ,trap ,bait ,set ,deadfall ,trail ,set ,deadfall ,bear or ,coon ,deadfall ,otter ,deadfall ,marten ,deadfall ,marten ,trap ,triggers ,another ,marten ,deadfall ,high ,built ,marten ,deadfall ,tree ,deadfall ,more ,marten ,trap ,triggers ,flat ,stone ,trap ,stone ,deadfall ,triggers ,the ,invitation--,skunk ,killed ,without ,scenting ,right and ,wrong ,way ,bear ,pen ,trap ,bear ,entering ,pen ,den ,set ,deadfall ,portable ,wooden ,trap ,the ,block ,trap ,the ,nox-,em-,all ,deadfall ,illinois ,trapper's ,triggers ,trip ,triggers ,animal ,entering ,trip ,deadfall ,trip ,trigger ,fall ,canadian ,trip ,fall ,the ,turn ,trigger ,two ,piece ,trigger ,trap ,string and ,trigger ,trap ,trail or ,den ,trap ,spring ,pole and ,snare ,small ,game ,snare ,wire or ,twine ,snare ,snare ,loop ,path ,set ,snare ,trip ,pan or ,plate ,double ,trail ,set ,trail ,set ,snares ,path ,snare ,rat ,runway ,snare ,underground ,rat ,runway ,runway and ,cubby ,set ,log ,set ,snare ,cow ,path ,snare ,lifting ,pole ,snare ,bait ,set ,snare ,the ,box ,trap ,the ,coop ,trap ,the ,pit ,trap ,a ,good ,catcher ,single and ,three ,board ,stretcher ,some ,stretching ,patterns ,dakota ,trappers ,method ,holder for ,skinning ,wire ,coon ,method ,wire and ,twig ,coon ,method ,size of ,stretching ,boards ,pole ,stretchers ,fleshing ,board ,stretching ,frame ,skin on ,stretcher ,hoop ,stretcher ,small ,steel ,traps ,no4 #ha or ,web ,jaw ,trap ,no4 #ia or ,double ,jaw ,trap ,mink and ,fox ,traps ,otter and ,beaver ,traps ,otter ,traps with ,teeth ,otter ,trap without ,teeth ,offset ,jaw ,beaver ,trap ,clutch ,detachable ,trap ,newhouse ,wolf ,trap ,small ,bear ,trap ,small ,bear ,trap with ,offset ,jaw ,black ,bear ,trap ,regular ,bear ,trap with ,offset ,jaws ,grizzly ,bear ,trap ,bear ,chain ,clevis ,steel ,trap ,setting ,clamp ,illustration3 ,a4 ,r4 ,,harding4 ,,introduction4 ,scattered from the ,arctic ,ocean to the ,gulf of ,mexico and from the ,atlantic to the ,pacific ,ocean are thousands of trappers who use deadfalls1 snares and other home-made traps1 but within this vast territory there are many thousand who know little or nothing of them4 ,the best and most successful trappers are those of extended experience4 ,building deadfalls and constructing snares1 as told on the following pages1 will be of value to trappers located where material--saplings1 poles1 boards1 rocks1 etc4--is to be had for constructing4 ,the many traps described cannot all be used to advantage in any section1 but some of them can4 ,more than sixty illustrations are used to enable the beginner to better understand the constructing and workings of home-made traps4 ,the illustrations are mainly furnished by the old timers4 ,chapters on ,skinning and ,stretching1 ,handling and ,grading are added for the correct handling of skins and furs adds largely to their commercial value4 ,a4 ,r4 ,harding4 ,,deadfalls ,,and ,,snares ,,chapter ,i4 ,,building ,,deadfalls4 ,during the centuries that trapping has been carried on1 not only in ,america1 but thruout the entire world1 various kinds of traps and snares have been in use and taken by all classes of trappers and in all sections the home-made traps are of great numbers4 ,the number of furs caught each year is large4 ,the above was said by a trapper some years ago who has spent upwards of forty years in the forests and is well acquainted with traps1 trappers and fur-bearing animals4 ,whether the statement is true or not1 matters but little1 altho one thing is certain and that is that many of the men who have spent years in trapping and have been successful use the deadfalls and snares as well as steel traps4 ,another trapper says3 ,in my opinion trapping is an art and any trapper that is not able to make and set a deadfall1 when occasion demands1 does not belong to the profession4 ,i will give a few of the many reasons why dead falls are good4 #a4 ,there is no weight to carry4 #b4 ,many of the best trappers use them4 #c4 ,it requires no capital to set a line of deadfalls4 #d4 ,there is no loss of traps by trap thieves1 but the fur is in as much danger4 #e4 ,deadfalls do not mangle animals or injure their fur4 #f4 ,it is a humane way of killing animals4 #g4 ,there is no loss by animals twisting off a foot or leg and getting away4 #h4 ,animals are killed outright1 having no chance to warn others of their kind by their cries from being caught4 #i4 ,trappers always have the necessary outfit 7axe and knife7 with them to make and set a deadfall that will kill the largest animals4 #aj4 ,the largest deadfalls can be made to spring easy and catch small game if required4 #aa4 ,deadfalls will kill skunk without leaving any scent4 #ab4 ,deadfalls are cheap and trappers should be familiar with them4 ,it is a safe proposition1 however1 that not one-half of the trappers of today can build a deadfall properly or know how to make snares1 and many of them have not so much as seen one4 ,first a little pen about a foot square is built of stones1 chunks1 or by driving stakes close together1 leaving one side open4 ,the stakes should be cut about thirty inches long and driven into the ground some fourteen inches1 leaving sixteen or thereabout above the ground4 ,of course if the earth is very solid1 stakes need not be so long1 but should be so driven that only about sixteen inches remain above ground4 ,a sapling say four inches in diameter and four feet long is laid across the end that is open4 ,a sapling that is four1 five or six inches in diameter1 owing to what you are trapping for1 and about twelve feet long1 is now cut for the fall4 ,stakes are set so that this pole or fall will play over the short pole on the ground4 ,these stakes should be driven in pairs2 two about eighteen inches from the end2 two about fourteen farther back4 7,see illustration47 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,pole ,,deadfall4 ,the small end of the pole should be split and a small but stout stake driven firmly thru it so there will be no danger of the pole turning and going off of its own accord4 ,the trap is set by placing the prop 7which is only seven inches in length and half an inch thru7 between the top log and the short one on the ground1 to which is attached the long trigger1 which is only a stick about the size of the prop1 but about twice as long1 the baited end of which extends back into the little pen4 ,the bait may consist of a piece of chicken1 rabbit or any tough bit of meat so long as it is fresh and the bloodier the better4 ,an animal on scenting the bait will reach into the trap--the top of the pen having been carefully covered over--between the logs4 ,when the animal seizes the bait the long trigger is pulled off of the upright prop and down comes the fall1 killing the animal by its weight4 ,skunk1 coon1 opossum1 mink and in fact nearly all kinds of animals are easily caught in this trap4 ,the fox is an exception1 as it is rather hard to catch them in deadfalls4 ,the more care that you take to build the pen tight and strong1 the less liable is some animal to tear it down and get bait from the outside2 also if you will cover the pen with leaves1 grass1 sticks1 etc41 animals will not be so shy of the trap4 ,the triggers are very simple1 the long one being placed on top of the upright1 or short one4 ,the long triggers should have a short prong left or a nail driven in it to prevent the game from getting the bait off too easy4 ,if you find it hard to get saplings the right size for a fall1 and are too light1 they can be weighted with a pole laid on the fall4 ,illustration3 ,,small ,,animal ,,fall4 ,i will try and give directions and drawing of deadfalls which ,i have used to some extent for years1 writes a ,maine trapper1 and can say that most all animals can be captured in them as shown in illustration4 ,you will see the deadfall is constructed of stakes and rocks and is made as follows3 ,select a place where there is game2 you need an axe1 some nails1 also strong string1 a pole four inches or more in diameter4 ,notice the cut ,no4 #a being the drop pole which should be about six to seven feet long4 ,no4 #b is the trip stick1 ,no4 #c is string tied to pole and trip stick1 ,no4 #d is the stakes for holding up the weight1 ,no4 #e is the small stakes driven around in the shape of letter ,u1 should be one foot wide and two feet long4 ,no4 #f is the rocks1 ,no4 #g is the bait4 ,now this is a great trap for taking skunk and is soon built where there are small saplings and rocks4 ,this trap is also used for mink and coon4 99 99 99 ,the trapper's success depends entirely upon his skill and no one can expect the best returns unless his work is skillfully done4 ,do not ,attempt to make that deadfall unless you are certain that you can make it right and do not leave it till you are certain that it could not be any better made4 ,i have seen deadfalls so poorly made and improperly set that they would make angels weep1 neither were they located where game was apt to travel4 ,the deadfall if made right and located where game frequents is quite successful4 ,another thing1 boys1 think out every little plan before you attempt it4 ,if so and so sets his traps one way1 see if you can't improve on his plan and make it a little better4 ,do not rush blindly into any new scheme1 ,but look at it on all sides and make yourself well acquainted with the merits and drawbacks of it4 ,make good use of your brains1 for the animal instinct is its only protection and it is only by making good use of your reasoning powers that you can fool him4 ,experience may cost money sometimes and loss of patience and temper1 but in my estimation it is the trapper's best capital4 ,an old trapper who has a couple of traps and lots of experience will catch more fur than the greenhorn with a complete outfit4 ,knowledge is power in trapping as in all other trades4 ,this is the old reliable pinch-head4 ,the picture does not show the cover1 so ,i will describe it4 ,get some short pieces of board or short poles and lay them on the stones in the back part of the pen and on the raised stick in front4 ,lay them close together so the animal cannot crawl in at the top4 ,then get some heavy stones and lay them on the cover to weight down and throw some dead weeds and grass over the pen and triggers and your trap is complete4 ,when the animal tries to enter and sets off the trap by pressing against the long trigger in front1 he brings the weighted pole down in the middle of his back1 which soon stops his earthly career4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,pinch ,,head4 ,this deadfall can also be used at runways without bait4 ,no pen or bait is required4 ,the game will be caught coming from either direction4 ,the trap is thrown by the trigger or pushing against it when passing thru4 ,during snowstorms the trap requires considerable attention to keep in perfect working order1 but at other times is always in order when placed at runways where it is used without bait4 ,the trap can also be used at dens without bait with success4 ,if used with bait it should be placed a few feet from the den or near any place frequented by the animal or animals you expect to catch4 ,of course we all admit the steel trap is more convenient and up-to-date1 says a ,new ,hampshire trapper4 ,you can make your sets faster and can change the steel trap from place to place2 of course1 the deadfall you cannot4 ,but all this does not signify the deadfall is no good2 they are good and when mink trapping the deadfall is good4 ,to the trapper who traps in the same locality every year1 when his deadfalls are once built it is only a few minutes' work to put them in shape1 then he has got a trap for the season4 ,i enclose a diagram of a deadfall 7called here ,log ,trap7 which1 when properly made and baited1 there is no such a mink catcher in the trap line yet been devised4 ,this trap requires about an hour to make and for tools a camp hatchet and a good strong jackknife1 also a piece of strong string1 which all trappers carry4 ,this trap should be about fifteen inches wide with a pen built with sticks or pieces of boards driven in the ground4 7,see diagram47 ,the jaws of this trap consist of two pieces of board three inches wide and about three and a half feet long1 resting edgeways one on the other1 held firmly by four posts driven in the ground4 ,the top board or drop should move easily up and down before weights are put on4 ,the treddle should be set three inches inside level with the top of bottom board4 ,this is a round stick about three-fourths inch thru1 resting against two pegs driven in the ground4 7,see diagram47 ,the lever should be the same in size4 ,now put your stout string around top board4 ,then set1 pass lever thru the string over the cross piece and latch it in front of the treddle4 ,then put on weights and adjust to spring1 heavy or light as desired4 ,this trap should be set around old dams or log jams by the brook1 baited with fish1 muskrat1 rabbit or chicken4 ,illustration3 ,,board ,,or ,,pole ,,trap4 ,i herewith enclose a drawing of a deadfall that ,i use for everything up to bear1 writes a ,rocky ,mountain trapper1 ,i hate to acknowledge that ,i have used it to get lope meat with1 because ,i sometimes believe in firing as few shots as ,i can in some parts of the ,mountains4 ,illustration3 ,,bait ,,set ,,deadfall4 ,drawing ,no4 #a shows it used for bait2 a snare can be used on it at the same time by putting the drop or weight where it isn't liable to fall on the animal4 ,put the weight on the other side of tree or make it fall with the animal to one side4 ,in this case a pole must be strictly used4 ,a good sized rock is all right for small animals4 ,the closer spikes #a and #b are together and the longer the tugger end on bottom1 the easier it will pull off4 ,fig4 #a4--,spike driven in tree one-half inch deeper than spike ,no4 #b 7,fig4 ,no4 #b7 to allow for notch4 #c--;,bait on end of trigger4 #d--;,heavy rock or log4 #e--,wire1 fine soft steel4 #f--,trigger with notch cut in it4 #g--,notch cut in trigger ,fig ,g4 ,spike ,no4 #b must have head cut off and pounded flat on end4 ,in setting it across a trail a peg must be driven in the ground4 ,in this peg the spikes are driven instead of tree as in drawing ,no4 #a4 ,the end of brush stick in between peg and trigger end and when an animal comes either way it will knock the brush and it knocks out the trigger4 ,good1 soft steel wire should be used ,in setting this deadfall along river bank a stout stick can be driven in bank and hang out over water4 ,this stick will take the place of a limb on tree4 ,one end of a pole held in a slanting position by weighing one end down with a rock will do the same as limb on tree4 ,if a tree is handy and no limb1 lean a stout pole up against the tree and cut notches in it for wire to work on4 ,illustration3 ,,trail ,,set ,,deadfall4 #a--,trail4 #b--,log4 #c--,trigger same as for bait on top deadfall drawing4 #d--,stake driven in ground with spikes driven in it same as above in tree4 #e--,spikes same as above4 #f--,wire4 #g--,tree4 #h--;,brush put in trail with one end between trigger and peg to knock off trigger when touched4 ,this deadfall has never failed me and when trapping in parts of the country where lynx1 coyote or wolverine are liable to eat marten in traps1 use a snare and it will hang 'em high and out of reach4 ,snare to be fastened to trigger4 ,of course a little pen has to be built when setting this deadfall with bait4 ,in setting in trail it beats any deadfall ,i have ever used for such animals as have a nature to follow a trail4 ,a fine wire can also be tied to the trigger and stretched across trail instead of a brush and tied on the opposite side of trail4 ,i like it1 as the weight can be put high enough from the ground to kill an elk when it drops4 ,,chapter ,,ii4 ,,bear ,,and ,,coon ,,deadfall4 ,i will explain how to make the best bear deadfall1 also the best one for coon that ever was made1 writes an old and successful deadfall trapper4 ,first get a pole six or eight feet long for bed piece1 get another sixteen or eighteen feet long and lay it on top of bed piece4 ,now drive two stakes1 one on each side of bed piece and pole and near one end of bed piece4 ,about #ah or #bj inches from first two stakes drive two more stakes1 one on each side of bed piece and fall pole4 ,now drive two more stakes directly in front of your two back stakes and about two inches in front4 ,next cut a stick long enough to come just to the outside of last two stakes driven4 ,then whittle the ends off square so it will work easy between the treadle stakes and the two inside stakes that your fall works in2 next raise your fall pole about three feet high4 ,get a stick about one inch thru1 cut it so that it will be long enough to rest against your treadle and that short stick is your treadle when it is raised above the bed a piece1 cut the end off slanting so it will fit against the treadle good4 ,illustration3 ,,bear ,,or ,,coon ,,deadfall4 ,slant the other end so the fall pole will fit good4 ,now five or six inches from the top of the slanted stick cut a notch in your slanted stick4 ,go to the back side1 lift your pole up1 set the post on the bed piece4 ,place the top of the slanted stick against the fall pole4 ,then place the pole off post in the notch in slant stick4 ,press back on bottom of slanted stick and place your treadle against the stick4 ,your trap is set4 ,make ,v shape on inside of treadle by driving stakes in the ground1 cedar or pine1 and hedge it in tight all around4 ,if such there is not1 make it as tight as you can4 ,cover the top tight1 the cubby should be #c feet long1 #c feet high and wide as your treadle stakes4 ,stake the bait near the back end of cubby4 ,be sure the treadle is just above the bed piece4 ,take the pole off the cubby to set the trap as you have set it from this side4 ,you can set it heavy or light by regulating the treadle4 ,i sometimes drive spikes in the bed piece and file them off sharp as it will hold better4 ,you can weight the fall poles as much as you like after it is set4 ,don't you see1 boys1 that the old fellow comes along and to go in he surely will step on the treadle4 ,bang1 it was lowered and you have got him4 ,this is the best coon deadfall ,i ever saw4 ,the fall pole for coon should be about #ad inches high when set4 ,set it under trees or along brooks where you can see coon signs4 ,bait with frogs1 crabs or fish1 a piece of muskrat or duck for coon4 ,build it much the same as for bear1 only much smaller4 ,you will find this a successful trap4 99 99 99 ,i will describe a deadfall for bear which ,i use1 and which works the best of any ,i have tried1 says a ,montana trapper4 ,i have two small trees about #cj inches apart1 cut a pole #aj feet long for a bed piece and place in front of trees then cut a notch in each tree about #bg inches above the bed piece1 and nail a good1 strong piece across from one tree to the other in the notches4 ,cut a long pole five or six inches through for the deadfall1 place the large end on top of bed log1 letting end stick by the tree far enough to place on poles for weights4 ,then cut two stakes and drive on outside of both poles1 and fasten top of stakes to the trees one foot above the cross piece4 ,then on the inside1 #cj inches from the trees1 drive two more solid stakes about #b feet apart and nail a piece across them #f inches lower than the cross piece between the trees4 ,then cut a lever about three feet long and flatten one end1 and a bait stick about two feet long4 ,cut two notches #f inches apart1 one square on the top and the other on the bottom1 and both close to the top end of bait stick4 ,fasten bait on the other end and then raise up the deadfall1 place the lever stick across the stick nailed between the two trees1 letting the end run six inches under the deadfall4 ,take the bait stick and hook lower notch on the piece nailed on the two stakes and place end of lever in the top notch1 then cut weights and place on each side until you think you have enough to hold any bear4 ,then put on as many more and it will be about right4 ,stand up old chunks around the sides and back and lots of green brush on the outside4 ,get it so he can't see the bait4 ,it doesn't require a very solid pen4 ,i drive about three short stakes in front and leave them one foot high1 so when he pulls back they will come against him1 and the set is complete4 ,you can weight it with a ton of poles and still it will spring easy4 ,the closer together the two notches the easier it will spring4 ,this trap can be built lighter and is good for coon4 ,in fact1 will catch other fur bearers1 but is not especially recommended for small animals1 such as ermine and mink4 ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,,otter ,,deadfalls4 ,at the present day when steel traps are so cheap and abundant it may sound very primitive and an uncertain way of trapping these animals for one to advocate the use of the deadfall1 especially as every hunter knows the animal is much more at home in the water than on land4 ,but on land they go and it was by deadfalls the way-back ,indians killed a many that were in their packs at the end of the hunting season4 ,of course these wooden traps were not set at haphazard thru the brush as marten traps1 but were set up at the otter slide places1 and where they crossed points in river bends1 or it might be where a narrow strip of land connected two lakes4 ,these places were known from one generation to another and the old traps were freshened up spring and fall by some member of the family hunting those grounds4 ,these special deadfalls were called otter traps1 but really when once set were open for most any animal of a medium size passing that path4 ,the writer has known beaver1 lynx1 fox and in one instance a cub bear to be caught in one of these deadfalls4 ,there was a simplicity and usefulness about these traps that commended them to the trapper and even now in this rush century some hunters might use them with advantage4 ,when once set1 they remain so until some animal comes along and is caught4 ,i say caught because if properly erected they rarely miss4 ,they require no bait and therefore are never out of order by the depredations of mice1 squirrels or moose birds4 ,i knew a man who caught two otters together4 ,this may sound fishy1 but when once a present generation trapper sees one of these traps set he will readily believe this apparently impossible result is quite likely to happen4 ,the trap is made thus3 ,cut four forked young birch about five feet long1 pointing the lower ends and leaving the forks uppermost4 ,plant two of these firmly in the ground at each side of the otter path1 three inches apart between them and about twenty inches across the path4 ,these must be driven very hard in the ground and a throat piece put in level between the uprights across the path from side to side4 ,as a choker and to support the weight of logs to kill the otter1 cut a pole 7tamarac preferable7 long enough to pass three feet each side of your picket or uprights1 see that this falls easy and clear4 ,illustration3 ,,otter ,,deadfall4 ,now cut two short poles for the forks to lay in from side to side of the path1 being in the same direction as the choker4 ,at the middle of one of these short poles tie a good stout cord or rope 7the ,indians used split young roots71 making a loop of same long enough to lay over the pole in front and down to the height the choke pole is going to be4 ,when set1 next comes the trigger which must be of hard wood and about a foot long1 round at one end and flat at the other4 ,a groove is hacked out all around the stick at the round end4 ,this is to tie the cord to4 ,the choke stick is now brought up to say twenty inches from the ground and rested on top of the trigger4 ,a stick about an inch in diameter is placed outside the pickets and the flat end of the trigger is laid in against this4 ,the tied stick to be about eight inches from the ground4 ,the tying at the end of the trigger being at one side will create a kind of leverage sufficiently strong to press hard against the tied stick4 ,care must be taken1 however1 to have this pressure strong enough but not too strong for the animal to set off4 ,now load each end of the choke stick with small laps of wood to insure holding whatever may catch4 ,a little loose moss or grass is placed fluffy under tread stick when set to insure the otter going over and not under4 ,when he clambers over the tread stick his weight depresses it1 the trigger flies up1 letting the loaded bar fall on his body1 which holds him till death4 ,while my description of the making of a deadfall for otters is plain enough to me1 yet the novice may not succeed in constructing one the first time4 ,still if he is a trapper he will very soon perceive where any mistake may be and correct it4 ,i have used both steel traps and deadfalls and altho ,i do not wish to start a controversy yet ,i must say that a deadfall well set is a good trap4 ,for marten on a stump they are never covered unless with snow1 nor is the marten when caught destroyed by mice4 ,of course1 to set a deadfall for otter it must be done in the fall before the ground is frozen4 ,once made1 however1 it can be set up either spring or fall and will1 with a little repairs1 last for years4 ,i am aware the tendency of the age is to progress and not to use obsolete methods1 still even some old things have their advantages4 ,good points are not to be sneered at and one of these ,i maintain for spring and fall trapping in a district where otter move about from lake to lake or river to river is the old time ,indian deadfall4 ,,chapter ,,iv4 ,,marten ,,deadfall4 ,having seen a good many descriptions of deadfalls in the ,h-,t-,t lately1 writes a ,colorado trapper1 ,i thought ,i would try to show the kind that is used around here for marten4 ,it is easily made1 and can always be kept above the snow4 ,first1 cut a pole 7z7 five or six inches through and twelve feet long1 lay it in the crotch of a tree five feet from the ground4 ,then cut two sticks two inches through and fifteen inches long1 cut a notch in each three inches from the top and have the notch in one slant downwards 7,b71 the other upwards 7,a74 ,the sticks should be nailed on each side of the pole 7z71 the top of which should be flattened a little4 ,have the notches about six inches above the top of the pole4 ,cut another stick #aj inches long 7,f71 cut the top off square and nail it six inches farther down the pole on the same side as 7,b71 have the top five inches above the top of pole 7,z74 ,now cut two more sticks two and one-half feet long 7,c-,d71 cut a notch in each two inches from the top and nail a stick 7,e7 across them in the notches1 so they will be about seven inches apart4 ,set a straddle of the pole 7,z72 they should be two inches farther down the pole than 7,f74 ,then cut another pole 7,x7 ten feet long1 lay it under 7,z71 lift up one end of it and nail the stick ,c and ,d to each side of it4 ,see that when the sticks ,c1 ,d and ,e are lifted up they will fall clear and easily4 ,illustration3 ,,marten ,,deadfall4 ,now cut a bait stick 7,g7 one-half inch through and seven inches long1 sharpened at one end4 ,cut another stick 7,h7 an inch through and fifteen inches long1 flatten a little on one side4 ,to set the trap lift up ,c1 ,d1 ,e and ,x1 and put the end of ,h under ,e and rest it on the top of ,f1 hold down the other end while you put the bait stick 7,g7 in the notches ,a and ,b1 then let the end of ,h come up on the outside of ,b against the end of ,g4 ,put the bait on the other end of ,g2 when the end is pulled out of the notch the trap will spring and spring easily if made properly4 ,lay a block of wood at the back end and some small sticks on top1 so the animal will have to crawl under ,e to get the bait4 ,muskrat makes the best bait for marten4 99 99 99 ,when you find a tall straight spruce or something that is pretty straight 7not a balsam7 cut it about a foot over your head1 says a ,northwestern trapper1 or as high as you can4 ,when you have cut it1 split the stump down the center two feet4 ,be careful doing this1 for you are striking a dangerous blow as ,i have good cause to know and remember4 ,trim out the tree clean and taper off the butt end to make it enter into split4 ,drive down into split about fourteen inches4 ,cut a crotch into ground or snow solid4 ,now cut the mate of this piece already in1 split and put into split and into crotch on top of other4 ,have the piece heavy enough to hold wolverine4 ,see cuts for the rest4 ,cover bait as shown in cut4 ,i do not make my trip sticks the same as others1 but ,i am afraid that ,i cannot explain it to you4 ,see cuts for this also4 ,use your own judgment4 ,of course you will sometimes find it is not necessary to go to all this bother4 ,for instance1 sometimes you will find a natural hanger for your trap4 ,then you don't have to have the long peg or pole to hold it stiff4 ,illustration3 ,,marten ,,trap ,,triggers4 ,this trap is used heavy enough by some long line trappers for wolverine4 ,they blacken bait and cover as shown in ,no4 #d4 ,in the two small illustrations the triggers are shown in ,no4 #a separate and in ,no4 #b set4 ,a is the bait and trip stick1 ,b the lever1 ,c is the upright4 ,b in ,no4 #a is where the bait should be4 ,illustration3 ,,another ,,marten ,,deadfall4 ,in ,no4 #c ,a is bait1 ,e is pin which fastens deadfall to under pole and prevents deadfall from turning to one side4 ,f is post to keep under pole from bending4 ,in ,no4 #d ,,hh are nails which fasten down a springy piece of wood to keep cover over bait4 ,cover with fir or spruce boughs4 99 99 99 ,another deadfall much used by marten trappers is constructed by cutting a notch in a tree about a foot in diameter1 altho the size of the tree makes little difference4 ,the notch should be four inches deep and a foot up and down and as high up as the trapper can cut--four or five feet4 ,only one pole is needed for this trap as the bottom of the notch cut answers for the bed or bottom piece4 7,see illustration47 ,the pole for the fall should be four inches or more in diameter and anywhere from six to ten feet in length1 depending upon the place selected to set4 ,the end fartherest from the bait or notched tree must be as high as the notch4 ,this can be done by driving a forked stake into the ground or by tying that end of the pole to a small tree if there is one growing at the right place4 ,illustration3 ,,high ,,built ,,marten ,,deadfall4 ,if the pole for the fall is larger than the notch is deep1 the end must be flattened so that it will work easy in the notch1 as a piece of wood has been nailed over the notch to hold the fall pole in place4 ,the triggers used are generally the figure #d and set with bait pointing as shown4 ,there is no place for the marten to stand while eating bait1 only in shelf1 and of course when the spindle is pulled1 down comes the pole killing the animal4 ,illustration3 ,,tree ,,deadfall4 ,this shelf protects the bait and bed piece and the snow does not fill in between and require so much attention as the one first described4 ,this deadfall may also be built on a stump with a small enclosure or pen and the two-piece trigger used4 ,most trappers place the bait or long trigger on bottom pole1 when trapping for marten4 ,it will be readily seen that a marten1 to get the bait1 will stand between the fall and bed or under pole and of course is caught while trying to get the bait4 ,illustration3 ,,more ,,marten ,,trap ,,triggers4 ,the height that deadfalls for marten should be built depends upon how deep the snow gets4 ,in the fall and early winter they can be built on the ground or logs and other fur-bearers are taken as well4 ,a few inches of snow will not interfere with the workings of deadfalls on the ground1 but deep snows will4 ,to make catches the trapper must clean out under the fall pole each round4 ,this is no small task4 ,the trapper is always on the lookout for suitable places to construct ,marten deadfalls4 ,when the snows get several feet deep1 and the trapper makes his rounds on snowshoes1 the deadfalls constructed several feet above the ground are the ones that make the catches4 ,,chapter ,v4 ,,stone ,,deadfalls4 ,the stone deadfall here described is used by trappers wherever flat stones can be found and is a good trap to catch skunk1 opossum1 mink and other small game in4 ,the trap is made as follows3 ,the figure #d trigger is best for this trap and is made after this manner3 standard 7#a7 is made by cutting a stick five or six inches long out of hard wood and whittling it to a flat point1 but blunt at one end2 7#b7 is about five inches long with a notch cut within about one and one-half inches of the end with the other end made square so that it will fit in 7#c7 which is the bait stick4 ,this is only a straight stick sixteen or eighteen inches long1 while the other end of the stick should have a small prong on it1 a tack driven in1 or something to hold the bait in position4 ,the best way will be to tie the bait on also4 ,illustration3 ,,flat ,,stone ,,trap4 ,after you have found a flat stone weighing from #ej to #ajj pounds1 depending upon what game you expect to trap1 select the place for the trap1 first place a small flat stone underneath so that your game will be killed quicker and also so that the upright trigger will not sink into the ground4 ,lift up the large1 or upper stone1 kneeling on one knee before the stone resting the weight of the stone on the other4 ,this leaves both hands free to set the trap4 ,this is done by placing the triggers in the position shown in illustration and then letting the stone down very easily on the triggers4 ,you should keep your knee under the stone all the time until you see that it comes down easily and does not go off of its own weight4 ,the bait should always be put on before the trap is set4 ,this trap will go off easy and you must be careful that the bait you put on is not too heavy and will cause the trap to fall of its own accord4 ,this trap can be made to catch rabbits which will come in handy to bait other traps for larger game4 ,in trapping for rabbits bait with apples1 cabbage1 etc4 ,this trap does not take long to make1 as no pen need be built1 the top stone is large enough to strike the animal1 making no difference in what position it gets when after the bait4 ,a stone two or three inches thick and say thirty inches across and the same length or a little longer is about the proper size for skunk1 opossum1 etc41 but of course larger or smaller stones can be used--whatever you find convenient4 99 99 99 ,this trap consists of a flat piece of stone supported by three fits of wood1 the whole trouble being in making these three fits right1 and this can be done by carefully comparing the description here given with illustrations1 whenever they are referred to4 ,the parts are all made of wood about three-eighths of an inch thick4 ,fig4 #a is thirteen inches long1 with notches about one-sixteenth of an inch deep cut in its upper side1 two of the notches near together and at one end1 and another four and a half inches from the first two4 ,the latter notch should be cut a little sloping across the stick4 ,illustration3 ,,stone ,,deadfall ,,triggers4 ,figure #a represents a top view and the piece next below it is a side view of the piece of wood as it should be made1 and end fartherest from the notches being trimmed to a point to hold the bait4 ,this constitutes the trigger4 ,the lever is shown in ,fig4 #b1 the cut above giving a side view and that below it a bottom view of this part of the trap4 ,the piece of wood needed for it is six and one-half inches long1 one inch wide at one end1 and tapering down to three-sixteenths of an inch at the other2 a notch is cut across the under side one and a half inches from the wide end4 ,level off the upper side of the narrow end to about one-half the original thickness4 ,if the flat stone to be used is a heavy one1 the notch must not be more than #a inch from the end2 otherwise the leverage on the notches would be greater than is desirable1 tending to hold the parts together too rigidly4 ,the upright post1 ,fig4 #c1 is seven inches long1 slightly forked at the bottom 7to make it stand firm and prevent twisting round when in use71 the upper end beveled from the front backwards at an angle of about #de degrees4 ,the front of the upright is the side that would face a person standing exactly opposite the trap when set4 ,on the right side cut a long notch1 half the width of the wood in depth1 commencing the hollow slope of the notch one inch from the lower end and making the square shoulder just three inches from the bottom of the post2 level the shoulder off from the front so as to leave only a narrow edge4 ,place the post upright1 7see ,fig4 #d7 it's forked end standing on a small piece of wood or flat stone1 to prevent it from sinking into the ground2 bait the pointed end of the trigger and hold it up horizontally with its middle notch1 catching behind the shoulder of the notch in the upright post2 then place the beveled end of the lever in the notch at the end of trigger1 the notch in the lever laying on the edge of the top of the upright post4 ,lastly1 make the stone rest on the top of the lever1 arranging the stone so that the bait will be near the lower end of the stone4 ,it is a good plan to hollow out the ground somewhat under where the stone falls1 to allow a space for the pieces of the ,fig4 #d to lay without danger of being broken4 ,the bait1 also1 should be something that will flatten easily and not hard enough to tilt the stone up after it has fallen4 ,the trouble with most deadfalls usually set1 is in the weight of stone4 ,when you get one heavy enough it will not trip easy when game takes hold1 and oftentimes break head piece where the head takes hold of standard4 ,the head piece from stone down to where standard sets in notch should be fully #b #a_/d inches1 so when stone starts to fall it throws triggers out from under2 otherwise1 stone will catch and break them4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,invitation--,,skunk4 ,young trappers when you are making triggers preparatory for your sets1 tie each pair together separately as they are finished1 then when you are ready to set there are no misfits4 ,now we are up to the bait stick4 ,it should under no condition1 be more than #i inches long1 and oftentimes shorter will answer better4 ,a slotted notch on one end the width of triggers1 and sharpened at the other1 is all that is necessary4 ,then the bait will lay on the foundation of trap within #e or #f inches of front of the trap4 ,don't put bait away back under stone4 ,you loose all the force when it falls4 ,in building foundations for traps the utmost caution should be exercised in getting them good and solid4 7,see how well you can do it instead of how quick47 ,begin in the fall before the trapping season is on1 locate and build your trap1 and be sure the top stone is plenty heavy1 raise it up and let it fall several times4 ,if it comes together with the bang of a wolf trap and will pinch a hair1 so much the better4 ,to illustrate3 ,while squirrel shooting one morning in the fall of #aije1 ,i was standing on a ledge where ,i used to trap for coons1 and ,i happened to remember of a trap underneath me4 ,i just thought ,i would see if it was there4 ,i went down and kicked away the drifted leaves and found it intact and ready for business4 ,when ,i lifted it up the foundation was as solid as the day ,i put it there1 and that was in the fall of #ahij1 and ,i want to say right here that it took all the strength ,i had to set it4 ,illustration3 ,,killed ,,without ,,scenting ,trappers1 if you will try one or more of the above described deadfalls for those skunk1 ,i think you can tie their pelts about your neck for protection cold mornings1 and none will be the wiser as far as smell goes1 provided1 however1 you put some obstruction to the right and left of the trap so it will compel his skunkship to enter direct in front1 and then carefully adjust the length of bait stick so stone will crush him about the heart4 ,i have taken quite a lot of skunk and very few ever scented where the head and heart were under stone1 writes an ,ohio trapper4 ,i always had a preference for above described traps for many reasons1 yet if you live where there is no stone1 you are not in it4 99 99 99 ,deadfalls come in handy sometimes and with no cost whatever--unless the cost is building them4 ,will send two illustrations of the stone deadfalls writes a successful deadfall trapper4 ,will say that there is a right and a wrong way to set the deadfall4 ,if you want to make sure of your catch never set your deadfall flat with short triggers shaped like figure #d1 but make long triggers instead and have the weight or choker sit almost upright and draw the top trigger close to the one that it rests on at the bottom4 ,in this way you have a trap that will be very easy to touch off4 ,illustration3 ,,right ,,and ,,wrong ,,way4 ,the way that some set their deadfalls the animal can remove bait without being caught1 simply because they draw the bait out from under the trap and stand far enough away to be out of danger of being caught4 ,i can take a two hundred pound weight and set a deadfall that will catch a small field mouse but it would not do to have them knock that easy for you will get game that is too small to handle4 ,,chapter ,,vi4 ,,the ,,bear ,,pen4 ,i will give a description of a bear pen1 writes a ,canadian trapper4 ,the bottom of the floor is made first of two logs about 7#a-a7 nine feet long and nine or ten inches thick4 ,they are placed side by side as shown in cut and two other logs 7#b-b7 nine feet long and eighteen inches in thickness are placed one on each side of the bottom logs4 ,then cut two short logs about twelve or fourteen inches thick and long enough to reach across the pen and extend about six inches over each side4 ,notch these down1 as shown in cut 7#c-c7 so that the top of the logs are about three or four inches higher than the sides4 ,cut notches in the top of these logs so that when logs #d-d will lay solid on top of the other side logs4 ,if they don't lie solid enough bore holes in the ends of the short logs and drive wooden pins in the holes4 ,the top of the short logs and the inside of the long logs should be flattened and a short block 7#e7 fitted loosely in one end1 and the other end should be closed by a block driven down in notches cut in the sides of #d-d1 as shown in small cut4 ,the top of the block 7#f7 should be about five inches lower than the top of the side logs4 ,notches are next cut in the side logs1 directly over this block1 so that when the roller 7#g7 is in place1 it will fit down snugly on this block4 ,the roller is about five inches thick and should turn easily in the notches4 ,illustration3 ,,bear ,,pen ,,trap4 ,the next step is to make the lid4 ,it should be made of two logs of such a size that they will entirely close the top of the trap4 ,they are notches down and pinned onto the roller and block #e4 ,these logs should project over rear end of pen about four or five feet4 ,before pinning these logs in places1 a hole should be made for the bait stick1 half of it being cut in each log4 ,pins should be driven in the side logs1 over the roller1 so that the bear cannot raise the lid4 ,two crotches are then cut and set up at the sides of the trap and spiked solid to the sides4 ,a short pole is then placed in the crotches and a long pole1 running lengthwise of the trap1 is fastened to the lid at one end with wire and the other ends fits into a notch in the bait stick when the trap is set4 ,the bait stick has a spike driven thru it on the inside of the trap to keep it from pulling thru4 ,to set the trap1 pile stones on the end of the lid until it will tip easily1 then put a pole thru under lid and go inside and fasten the bait on the bait stick4 ,then pull the long pole down and hook it into the notch in the bait stick4 ,remove the stones from lid and take the pole from under it and the trap is set and ready for the first bear that comes along4 ,if the lid does not seem heavy enough1 pile stone on it4 ,a trap of this kind may be made by two men in half a day and will be good for a number of years4 99 99 99 ,the log trap is one of the very best methods of taking the bear1 it beats the deadfall all to nothing1 says an old and experienced ,ohio bear trapper4 ,it is a sure shot every time2 ,i have never known it to fail except where the pen had stood for a number of years and become rotten4 ,in a case of that kind the bear would have no difficulty in gnawing his way out4 ,this trap or pen1 as ,i shall call it1 has been time tried and bear tested4 ,my father used to make these traps and many is the time when a boy ,i have ridden on horseback upon a narrow path1 cut for the purpose of letting a horse pass along and on nearing the pen heard the growling and tearing around of the bear in the pen and the hair on my head would almost crowd my hat off4 ,go about building it this way3 ,first select the spot where you have reason to believe that bear inhabit2 now having made your selection1 get a level place and on this spot lay a course of logs with the top flattened off2 this may be eight by three feet4 ,this being done1 commence to lay up the house of logs six to eight inches in diameter4 ,three sides of each log should be flattened2 these will be the top1 bottom and the inside4 ,it is necessary this be done1 for they must fit closely together in order that the bear cannot get a starting place to gnaw4 ,this is why ,i suggest that the inside of the log be flattened4 ,it is a well-known fact that you can put any gnawing animal into a square box and he cannot gnaw out for he cannot get the starting point4 ,lay a short log first1 then a long one1 notching each corner as you go so the logs will fit closely together4 ,now for the front corners2 drive a flattened stake into the ground1 letting the flattened side come against the logs4 ,now as you proceed to lay on a course of logs pin thru the stake into each log4 ,now go on up until you get a height of about four feet1 then lay on1 for the top1 a course of short logs commencing at the back end4 ,between the second and third logs cut out a little notch and flatten the under side of this log around the notch2 this is to receive the trigger1 which is made of a small pole about three inches thick4 ,put this into the hole and let it come down within ten inches of the floor4 ,then cut a notch in the side facing the front of the pen and so it will fit up against the under side of the leg with the notch in2 now you may make a notch in the trigger about six inches above the top of the pen and on the same side of the trigger that the first notch was made4 ,now the trigger is ready except adjusting the bait4 ,illustration3 ,,bear ,,entering ,,pen4 ,next lay a binder on top of the pen and upon either end of the short course of logs2 pin the binders at either end so the bear cannot raise the top off the pen4 ,you may also lay on three or four logs to weight it down and make it doubly sure4 ,you may pin the first short top log in front to the side logs to keep the front of the pen from spreading4 ,now we have the body of the pen complete4 ,the door is the next thing in order4 ,the first or bottom log ought to be twelve feet long1 but it is not necessary for the balance of them to be that length2 flatten the top and bottom of each log so they will lie tight together1 also flatten off the inside of the door so it will work smoothly against the end of the pen4 ,lay the logs of the door onto the first or long log1 putting a pin in each end of the logs as you lay them on4 ,go on this way until you have enough to reach the height of the pen and fully cover the opening4 ,another way of fastening the door together is to get the logs all ready1 then lay them upon the ground and pin two pieces across the door4 ,either way will do4 ,now the door being in readiness1 put it in its place and drive two stakes in the ground to keep the animal from shoving the door away4 ,if these do not appear to be solid enough to support the door against an onslaught1 you may cut a notch in the outside of the stake near the top2 get a pole eight feet in length1 sharpen the ends1 letting one end come in the notch of the stake and the other into the ground2 this will hold the door perfectly solid4 ,cut a slight notch in the top log of the door for the end of the spindle and the next move is to raise the door to the proper height4 ,set a stud under the door to keep it from falling4 ,get your spindle ready1 flatten the top of either end a little1 then cut a stanchion just the right length to set under the spindle on the first top log4 ,tie your bait onto the lower end of the trigger1 one man going inside to put the trigger in the proper place4 ,to facilitate the springing of the trap1 lay a small round stick in the upper notch of the trigger1 letting the end of the spindle come up under the stick and as the bear gets hold of the meat on the bottom of the trigger the least pull will roll the trigger from the end of the spindle4 ,however1 it will spring very easily as the stanchion under the end of the spindle is so near the end4 ,this kind of trap can be made by two men in one day or less1 and it often happens that the hunter and trapper wants to set a trap for bear a long way from any settlement or road4 ,the carrying of a fifty pound bear trap a distance of twenty or thirty miles is no little task4 ,then again1 this trap costs nothing but a little time and the trapper's whole life is given over to time4 ,one man can make this trap alone and set it1 but it is better for two to work together in this work1 for in case the door should spring upon him while he was inside he would be forever lost4 ,i have caught two wildcats at once in this pen1 but it is not to be expected that you will get more than one bear or other large animal at a time4 ,,chapter ,,vii4 ,,portable ,,traps4 ,in describing a portable deadfall1 an ,indiana trapper writes as follows3 ,we took a piece of sawed stuff #b x #d1 say #e feet long1 then another the same size and length4 ,for upright pieces to hold the main pieces so one would fall square on the other1 we used sawed stuff #a x #c1 two pieces set straight up and down at each end1 or about far enough to leave the back end stick out three inches1 and front end or end where the triggers set1 #f inches4 ,nail these #a x #c two on each end as directed above1 nail to lower piece #b x #d only1 then at back end bore a hole through the two uprights and also upper #b x #d1 or the piece that falls1 put a bolt through1 or a wood pin if the hole in the #b x #d is larger than those through the uprights2 then you are ready to raise it up and let it drop to see whether it works smoothly or not4 ,better nail a block #b x #d between the tops of the uprights to keep them from spreading apart1 then it is ready all except the triggers and string for them to run against4 ,it is portable1 you can pick it up and move it anywhere1 only a stake or two needed driven down on each side4 ,where string is shown as tied to little bush should be a small stake4 ,illustration3 ,,den ,,set ,,deadfall4 99 99 99 ,,shear ,,trap4 ,i send a drawing of a trap called the ,shear ,trap1 writes an ,eastern trapper4 ,this is not a new trap1 neither is it my own invention4 ,i have used this style and can recommend it to be ,o4 ,k41 cheap1 easy made1 light to move1 will last and will catch most any small animal4 ,this trap is made as follows3 ,take #d strips of board #d feet #d inches long1 by #c inches wide4 ,bore one inch hole two inches from end of all four of them4 ,now make two rounds about #ac inches long and put two of the boards on each side of the round4 ,at the other end put the two middle boards on the other round 7see illustration74 ,make one other round fifteen inches long1 same size as the others4 ,put the two outside boards on it1 forming two separate frames at the other end--so the two inside boards can turn on the round to which they are coupled4 ,illustration3 ,,portable ,,wooden ,,trap4 ,take two strips three inches wide1 two feet and six inches long4 ,bore one inch hole two inches from the top end and put round broom stick thru it seventeen inches long4 ,fasten all the rounds by wedges or small wooden pins4 ,stand the two strips last mentioned on the outside of the frame at the end they separate and make them fast so as to stand perpendicular4 ,for bait stick take lathe or one-half inch board one inch wide4 ,bore hole as shown in cut 7figure #f7 cut notch 7figure #b74 ,for trigger any stick #ah inches long1 #e_/h inch thick will do3 tie string #b inches from end and tie other end at figure #a1 pass the short end under round from the outside 7figure #c7 and catch in notch in bait lath 7figure #b71 the other end bait at figure #d4 ,put weight at figure #e4 ,cover trap at figure #f to keep animal from going in from back up to figure #g4 ,for bait ,i use fresh fish1 muskrat1 bird1 etc41 and scent with honey or blood4 99 99 99 ,,the ,,barrel ,,trap4 ,i promised in my last letter to describe the barrel trap1 says a ,northwestern trapper1 which ,i use for capturing rats4 ,other trappers may have used this trap for years1 but ,i only mean this for the young trappers who know nothing about this trap4 ,take any kind of an old barrel made of hard wood 7a salt barrel makes a good one71 and fix a board on one side of the top with a hinge4 ,let one end of the barrel project out directly over the barrel to within about #e or #f inches of the other side4 ,arrange it so that the end of the board not over the barrel is a little the heaviest so when the rat tilts down the end in the barrel it will come back to place again4 ,place a bit of parsnip apple1 or celery near the end of the board over the barrel so when the rat reaches his front feet over on the board it will tilt down and let him in the barrel to stay4 ,bury the barrel near a river or creek to within about #b or #c inches of top of barrel1 so there will be from #f inches to #a foot of water in the barrel4 ,if there is much water in the barrel the most of the rats will be dead when you visit your traps4 ,several may be captured in one night in this kind of a trap4 99 99 99 ,,block ,,trap4 ,saw a small log in blocks from #d to #f inches long4 ,bore an inch hole through the center4 ,take nails and drive them so that they form a muzzle in one end and have the nails very sharp4 ,fasten your blocks with a piece of wire and put it in the runway or on a log or anywhere that a coon will see it1 and nine out of ten will put his foot into it4 ,i bait with honey4 ,i caught #ge or #hj coons this season with block snares4 ,i put stoppers or false bottoms in one end of the block1 piece of corn cob or anything will do4 ,cut the foot off to get the animal out of this snare4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,block ,,trap4 ,the illustration shows a square block with the hole bored in the side4 ,this is done to better show how it should be done1 although when set1 the hole should be up4 ,bait with a piece of fresh rabbit1 frog1 or anything that coon are fond of4 ,instead of the blocks the auger hole can be bored in a log or root of a tree if a suitable one can be found where coon frequent4 99 99 99 ,,the ,,noxemall ,,deadfall4 ,the best material is spruce1 but if spruce is not to be had1 hard wood is better than soft4 ,follow directions closely2 never use old1 dozy wood2 good1 sound1 straight-grained material is the cheapest to use4 ,a good way to get your material is to go to the saw-mill1 select good straight-grained #b x #d studding1 have them ripped lengthwise again1 making four strips out of the original #b x #d1 each strip being two inches wide by one inch thick2 then have them cut in the lengths--two standards 7,a71 #ad inches long2 7,b7 two side pieces1 #b #a_/b feet long2 7,c7 two drop bars1 #b #a_/b feet4 ,bore a hole in each piece with a one inch bit1 two inches from the end of the piece to the center of the hole4 7,d7 ,a piece of lath about #h inches long1 with one end beveled off to fit in slot of ,e2 tie a piece of small rope1 about a foot long1 two inches from the other end4 7,e7 ,a piece of lath1 #b #a_/b feet long1 with a slot cut crosswise two inches from one end and a piece of rope tied two inch from the other end1 about a foot long4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,nox-,,em-,,all ,,deadfall4 ,if you get your material at the mill have four rounds 7,f7 turned out of oak or maple 7must be hard wood71 three of them being #ab inches long1 one being #h inches long1 #g_/h inch in diameter4 ,they must be some smaller than the hole1 as they swell when wet4 ,your trap is now ready to put together4 ,take one #ab inch round slip on the side pieces ,b first1 then the two standards ,a2 next place a #ab inch round in the holes in the top of the standards4 ,the front end of the trap is done1 except fastening the standards to the round and the setting apparatus to the top round of standards4 ,next take the remaining #ab inch round slip on the drop bars ,c first1 then the side pieces ,b outside2 next place the short round ,g in the front end of drop bar ,c4 ,you can drive nails thru the outside pieces and the round4 ,where there are two pieces on a side on one round1 fasten thru the outside piece1 always leaving the inside piece loose so that it will turn on the round4 ,a much better way1 altho it is more work1 is to bore a hole thru the side piece and round and drive in a hard wood plug4 ,this is the best way1 because if any part of the trap breaks you can knock out the plug much easier than to pull out a nail4 ,the holes should be bored with a #a_/d inch bit4 ,tie the rope attached to ,e to the rear round1 leaving two inches play1 between ,e and the round4 ,tie the rope attached to ,d to the top round of standards1 leaving two inches play at top and two inches between lower end of ,d and bottom round4 ,first place a stone on the drop bar1 weighing #bj pounds4 ,then raise the drop bar high enough so that you can place the short lath under the round of drop so that the weight rests on the rope4 ,these is the secret of setting4 ,the pressure on top forces the lower end to fly up4 ,now place the beveled end of the short lath in the slot of the long lath and the trap is set4 ,hang your bait from the drop bars1 under the weight1 about eight inches from the front4 ,the game will then come to the side of the trap4 ,never tie bait on the lath4 ,set the trap in front of the hole1 block up by setting up two stones ,v shape on the upper side of hole1 forcing game thru the trap to enter or come out4 ,,chapter ,,viii4 ,,some ,,triggers4 ,during my trapping experiences ,i remember of visiting an old trapper's deadfalls and at that time ,i had never seen or used any trigger other than the figure #d1 but this trapper used the prop and spindle4 ,i looked at several of his traps2 in fact1 went considerably out of my way to look at some eight or ten of them4 ,two of these contained game--a skunk and opossum4 ,i had often heard of these triggers1 but was skeptical about them being much good4 ,i now saw that these triggers were all right and on visiting my traps again set a few of them with these triggers4 ,since that time ,i have never used the figure #d4 ,the prop and spindle ,i know will look to many too hard to go off1 but they can be set so that they will go off fairly easy4 ,it is not necessary that the trap be set so that the least touch will make it go off4 ,it is best to have the trap set so that mice nibbling at bait will not throw it4 ,trappers who have never used the deadfall will1 no doubt1 find that after they use them a short time and become better acquainted with their construction and operation that they will catch more game than at first4 ,this is only natural as all must learn from experience largely1 whether at trapping or anything else4 ,the prop is a straight piece about seven inches long and about one-half inch in diameter4 ,the spindle1 or long trigger1 is about the size of the prop1 but should be sixteen or eighteen inches long with a prong cut off within two inches of the end to help hold the bait on more securely4 ,see cut elsewhere showing these triggers and of the figure likewise4 ,these illustrations will give a better idea of how the triggers are made to those who have never seen or used them4 99 99 99 ,i saw some time ago where a brother wanted to know how to make a deadfall1 writes an ,illinois trapper4 ,i send a picture of one that ,i think is far ahead of any that ,i have seen in the ,h-,t-,t yet1 that is1 the triggers4 ,i have seen deadfall triggers that would catch and not fall when the bait was pulled at1 but there is no catch to these4 ,trigger ,no4 #a is stub driven in the ground with a notch cut in the upper end for end of bait4 ,stick ,no4 #e to fit in ,no4 #c is another stub driven in ground for bait stick ,no4 #e to rest on top4 ,no4 #c is a stick1 one end laid on top of bait stick outside of stub ,no4 #b1 the other end on top of lower pole4 ,no4 #d is the prop stick4 ,one end is set on stick ,no4 #c about one inch inside the lower pole the other end underneath the upper pole4 ,the ,x represents the bait4 ,when the bait stick is pulled out of notch in stub ,no4 #a1 the upper pole comes down and has got your animal4 ,illustration3 ,,illinois ,,trapper',s ,,triggers4 ,if you find your bait is caught between the poles you may know the bait is not back in the box far enough4 ,if you find the trap down and bait and bait stick gone1 you may know that the bait is too far back4 ,the animal took his whole body in before he pulled the bait4 ,i have tried to describe this trap for the ones that don't know how to make a deadfall4 ,somebody wants to know how to make a good deadfall4 ,well the plans published in back numbers of ,h-,t-,t are all right except the figure four sticks and bait4 ,make your sticks like this1 and you will be pleased with the way they work1 says an experienced trapper4 ,illustration3 ,,trip ,,triggers4 ,no4 #b flat view4 ,the trigger sets in the slanting cut in side of ,no4 #b4 ,don't put bait on trigger4 ,put it in back end of pen and pin it to the ground4 ,turn trigger across opening slanted slightly in1 then you get them by neck or shoulders4 ,the longer the slot in the trigger1 the harder they will trip4 ,set as straight up as possible4 ,make #a and #b of hard wood4 ,saw a block #c #a_/b inches long and split into #c_/d inch squares4 ,make cuts square with a saw and split out the part you don't want4 ,bevel ends with a hatchet4 ,make trigger of green hard wood stick with bark on4 99 99 99 ,i cut a tree from #h to #aj inches in diameter and cut off #g feet long4 ,split the piece open and bury one piece on a level with the earth--split side up--and place the other half on top4 ,i hew off any bumps and make a perfect fit4 ,then ,i cut out bushes the size of my arm1 and drive them down on each side of my fall and leave them an inch or two higher than ,i expect my top log to be when set4 ,be sure to begin far enough at the back to force the animals to go in at the front4 ,i use the figure four triggers and tie the bait to the long trigger4 ,another trigger is made as follows3 ,cut two forks and lay pole across just in front of the log on top of the forks4 ,take another piece of timber about four feet long1 tie a string to each end and let one end have a trigger and the other be tied on your top log4 ,i drive a nail in the top log and tie the string to it1 and ,i call this my ,fly trigger4 ,it acts as a lever1 for when the fly comes up over the piece on the forks and the trigger goes over half way back by the side of the log1 and the trigger about a foot long--straight and thin1 and sticks under the log--have a short trigger tied to the fly pole and a forked sapling the size of your finger and long enough to stick in the ground to hold the trigger4 ,put the bait on long trigger and catch the short trigger through the fork and let it catch the long trigger4 ,this trigger leaves the fall open in front and is the one ,i prefer4 ,take two small logs about #aj or #ab feet long1 large enough to break a coon's back1 and make a pen about midway1 or one-third from front end1 to put the bait in1 and the trigger4 ,two foot boards1 or saplings will do1 and make the pen so that the animal will have to step across the bottom log and take the bait1 and be sure to set so that the top log will fall across the mink1 coon1 skunk1 or opossum1 as they are the animals ,i kill with the fall4 ,use fly pole triggers as above1 for this deadfall4 ,i make these falls near the runways of the animals ,i wish to catch4 ,when ,i am sure to stay at a place1 ,i build my falls in the summer and by the trapping time they look old and natural4 ,,chapter ,,ix4 ,,trip ,,triggers4 ,the deadfall shown here can be used at dens or in paths where animals travel frequently4 ,when set across the entrance of dens it will catch an animal going in without bait4 ,that is1 it will catch an animal going in1 as the triggers are so constructed that they can only be pushed towards the bait as shown in illustration4 ,if the trap is to be used at dens without bait the regular figure #d triggers had best be used1 but set extending along the log instead of back into the pen4 ,an animal in entering will strike the trigger and down comes the fall4 ,the trap shown here and the triggers are made as follows3 ,cut two logs and lay one on the ground4 ,this log should be at least four feet long4 ,place it firmly on the ground with flat side up4 ,this log need not be as flat as shown in illustration1 but should be flattened slightly4 ,drive two stakes three feet long within a foot or so of one end 7#h7 and 7#i74 ,now come to the other end and drive two more 7#aj7 and 7#aa74 ,stake ten which is directly opposite from 7#aa7 you want to be careful not to split1 as one of the triggers rests on it4 ,the fall is now placed in position1 that is the upper log4 ,the end of this is split and a stake driven in the ground so that the fall will not turn between the stakes but is held firmly4 ,see that the fall will work easily up and down2 that the stakes are not so close together that the fall binds1 yet it wants to fit snugly4 ,illustration3 ,,animal ,,entering ,,trip ,,deadfall4 ,cut trip stick 7#d7 and trigger 7#c71 lifting the fall up with one knee and place end of 7#c7 onto 7#d7 slightly1 so that a small pressure on 7#d7 will spring the trap4 ,after you have the trap set spring it to see that it works all right4 ,if the trap works all right and you are setting across the entrance of a den the pen of course is not wanted4 ,if you are setting in paths or near dens1 drive stakes in a semi-circle as shown in illustration1 but the stakes should stick above the ground some eighteen inches or about as high as the fall pole when set4 ,it is a good plan to throw leaves or grass on the stakes4 ,a small notch 7#e7 should be cut in upright post 7#h7 for trip stick to fit in to hold it up to that end4 ,be careful1 however1 that this notch is not cut too deep4 ,the bait 7#f7 is placed back in the pen and fastened with wire or a stake driven thru it into the ground4 ,the open space over bait is now covered over and the entire trap can be made to not look so suspicious by cutting brush and throwing over it excepting in front of the bait4 ,an animal in going in for bait steps on or pushes the long stick 7marked #d at one end and #e at the other7 off of 7#c7 and is usually caught4 99 99 99 ,this is another good trip trigger deadfall4 ,a short log should be laid on the ground and the two stakes driven opposite each other as in the trap just described4 ,these stakes are not shown1 as a better view of the triggers and workings of the trap can be had by omitting these4 ,in the illustration the fall pole is weighted1 but it is best to have the pole heavy enough and not weighted4 ,the stakes on which the upper or cross piece is nailed should be from twelve to eighteen inches apart4 ,the cross piece need not be heavy1 yet should be strong so that the weight of the fall will not bend it4 ,illustration3 ,,trip ,,trigger ,,fall4 ,the pens or enclosures used cannot be covered1 as this would interfere with the workings of the triggers4 ,if the pen is sixteen inches or higher very few animals will climb over to get bait1 but will go in where the trapper wants and if properly made and set are apt to catch the game4 99 99 99 ,along in the late seventies or beginning of the eighties1 when a good sized muskrat would bring about as much as a common prime mink1 and a steel trap was quite a prize to be in possession of1 ,i had perhaps two dozen traps1 some old fashioned1 that would be quite a curiosity at present1 besides a few ,newhouse ,no4 #j and #a4 ,that was in ,ontario1 ,canada4 ,skunk1 mink1 coon1 muskrat and fox were the furs in that part1 ,waterloo1 ,brant and ,oxford ,counties4 ,later ,i used this deadfall with success in ,iowa and other sections1 so that there is no doubt but that it will be found a good fur catcher in most localities4 ,i used to catch a great deal with deadfalls1--picture of which ,i here enclose4 ,i have seen nearly all the different makes of deadfalls and have tried some of them1 but the one ,i here send you the picture of1 which can be easily understood1 is the one ,i have had the most success with4 ,i believe they are the best1 and an animal can't get at the bait without striking it off1 besides some animals will examine a bait without touching it4 ,this deadfall1 if they are curious enough just to enter inside and put their foot on the trigger stick1 they are yours if the trap is set properly4 ,illustration3 ,,canadian ,,trip ,,fall4 ,this style of deadfall can be successfully1 used over skunk holes1 game runways and there you do away with the bait yard4 ,this style of trap is much easier made1 as it requires very little skill4 ,just a few straight sticks about the size round of a cane1 a little twine4 ,you can catch most any animal from a weasel to a raccoon4 ,the illustration shows the fall or upper pole weighted4 ,in our experience we have found it more satisfactory to have the fall heavy enough to kill the animal without the weight4 ,it is often hard for the trapper to find a pole of the right size and weight for the fall and the next best way is to place additional weight as shown4 99 99 99 ,first make a pen in the form of a wigwam1 driving stakes well into the ground to keep the animal away from the rear of the trap4 ,it should be open on one side4 ,place a short log in front of the opening and at both ends of this drive stakes to hold it in place and for the long log to work up and down in4 ,the top log should be six or eight feet long1 according to size of animal you aim to use trap for1 and about the same size as the bottom log4 ,cut a forked stick about #ab inches long for the bait stick1 notching one end and tapering the other as shown in ,fig4 ,no4 #b4 ,a stick #bd inches long should then be cut and flattened at both ends4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,turn ,,trigger4 ,to set the trap1 raise one end of the upper log and stick one end of the flattened stick under it1 resting it upon the top of the stake on the outside of the log4 ,place the bait stick1 point downward1 inside the pen upon a chip of wood or rock to keep it from sinking into the ground and set flat stick in the notch4 ,when the animal pulls at the bait it turns the bait stake and throws the cross piece out of the notch of the bait stick and let the top log fall4 ,,chapter ,x4 ,,how ,,to ,,set4 ,in explaining size pen some make them #b feet long1 writes a ,new ,york trapper1 while one #ab inches long 7as used on this trail71 is sufficient2 not only that1 but it is superior for the following reasons3 ,a #b foot pen would let the animal pass inside and beyond the drop when sprung1 unless the animal stepped on the treddle4 ,the ,indians' trap is made by cutting a sapling #c or #d inches in diameter off the butt end cut a piece #b foot and place on the ground for a bed piece2 drive four stakes1 two on either side of bed piece1 leaving a space between of #ab inches1 using the balance of pole for the drop to play between the stakes4 ,for balance of pen a few stakes1 bark or slabs cut from a tree4 ,for a spindle1 cut from a hemlock1 spruce or other dry limb a piece eight or ten inches long1 sharpen one end to a point1 the other end flatten a trifle for an inch or two on the underside1 so that when placed on the bed piece it will lay steady4 ,now with a sharp knife1 commence #a_/b inch back1 and round off top side of spindle on which to place a standard four inches in length1 cut from same material as spindle4 ,in setting1 place the bait on the spindle so as to leave a space of only six inches from bait to the standard2 now take spindle in left hand1 standard in right hand1 kneel down1 raise the drop placing one knee under it to hold it up the right height4 ,lay spindle onto center of bed piece and place the standard on top of spindle1 letting drop rest on top of standard so as to keep the pieces in position4 ,now by moving the standard out or in on the spindle1 the spring of the trap can be so gauged that it will set safely for weeks or months1 sprung easily1 and hold anything from a weasel to a raccoon4 ,it is sure1 as it kills immediately1 giving them no chance to escape by twisting or gnawing off their legs4 ,it is not so quickly made and set as a steel trap1 and never gives ,sneakums inducements to approach it for future use4 ,after the trap is set1 place bark or something suitable between the stakes above the drop and cover top of pen so as to compel the animal to enter in front1 and at the same time ward off snow and sleet from interfering with its workings4 ,weight the drop pole on either side of pen by placing on chunks of wood or stone4 99 99 99 ,there are several ways to set deadfalls1 as different triggers are used4 ,the manner in constructing these traps is varied somewhat in the different sections4 ,the illustration shown here is of a trap that is used to a considerable extent in all parts of ,america4 ,the trapper for marten in the far ,north1 the opossum trapper of ,west ,virginia1 ,kentucky and ,missouri1 the skunk trapper of the ,new ,england ,states and the mink trapper of the west have all used this trap with success4 ,it is for the hundreds of young and inexperienced trappers that the deadfall is shown here4 ,illustration3 ,,two ,,piece ,,trigger ,,trap4 ,the trigger as shown1 that is the one extending back into the pen1 is all one piece4 ,this trigger is usually cut from a bush and often requires some time to find one suited4 ,if you intend to build a few traps of this kind it is well to be on the lookout in advance for suitable triggers4 ,this trap is set with only two triggers1 the one with the straight part extending back into the pen and the prong on which the fall is resting and the other trigger is driven into the ground so that it is only a little higher than the under log of the trap4 ,this trap can be set with the triggers known as figure #d if preferred4 ,coon1 mink1 opossum1 skunk and marten are usually not hard to catch in deadfalls1 although now and then an animal for some reason is extremely hard to catch4 ,in building deadfalls it is best to split the end of the pole fartherest from the pen or bait and drive the stake there4 ,this will hold the upper or fall pole solid1 so that there will be no danger of its turning of its own weight and falling4 99 99 99 ,i enclose plan and description of a deadfall ,i have used with success on skunk and other fur animals1 writes a trapper from ,new ,york ,state4 ,never having seen anything like it described ,i thought it might be a help to those using these traps4 ,during ,november and ,december1 #ahig1 ,i caught #aa skunk in one deadfall like this one4 ,illustration3 ,,string ,,and ,,trigger ,,trap4 ,stakes are driven in the ground to form the pen same as on figure #d or other deadfall1 but no brush or sticks should be laid on top of pen as it would prevent the vertical stick from lifting up1 ,a small log or board with stones on may be laid on pole for more weight4 ,the pole may be from ten to fifteen feet long and about three inches in diameter4 ,,aa #ah inches or more out of the ground and one-half inch in diameter2 ,b #bj inches1 ,x one-half inch2 ,c about #af ,x #c_/d inches2 ,d #bj ,x #c_/d inches2 ,e same as ,,aa only not crotch2 ,f #a_/d inch4 ,rope long enough to go around pole and over ,b and tie around ,c4 ,d should be from #a to #c inches above ground according to what is being trapped4 ,bait should be laid on ground or fastened to stake near middle of pen4 ,,chapter ,,xi4 ,,when ,,to ,,build4 ,if you have determined upon your trapping ground it is best to build your traps in advance of the trapping season1 so that they will become old and weather beaten4 ,this1 of course1 is not necessary as traps are often built1 baited and on the return of the trapper the following morning game securely caught4 ,while the above is often true1 deadfalls can and should be built in advance of the trapping season4 ,there are at least two reasons for this3 first1 it allows the traps to become weather beaten and game is not so suspicious2 second1 all the trapper has to do when the trapping season arrives is to visit and set his traps4 ,some object to deadfalls on the ground that they require lots of work to build and that a trapper's time is valuable at this season of the year4 ,such may be true of the amateur1 but the professional trapper usually has much idle time in ,august1 ,september and early ,october1 when he is glad to look out for trapping grounds for the coming winter4 ,it is a day's work for one man to build from eight to twelve deadfalls1 depending of course upon how convenient he finds the pole to make the fall4 ,the other material is usually not hard to find or make4 ,that is stakes1 chunks and rocks4 ,if you only build six or eight traps and construct them right they are worth twice as many poorly built4 ,when properly built they will last for years1 requiring but little mending each fall at the opening of the trapping season4 ,taken all in all we do not know that a certain number of deadfalls take up any more time than an equal number of steel traps4 ,in fact more deadfalls can be set in a day1 after they are built1 than steel traps4 ,when it is stated that you will perhaps do as well at home as elsewhere1 this1 of course1 depends upon where you are located1 how many trappers there are in your section1 etc4 ,if there is but little to be caught then you had best go elsewhere1 but trappers have been known in thickly settled sections to catch from #ej to #cjj worth of fur in a season1 lasting from ,november #a to ,march #ae4 ,of course in the far north1 where trapping can be carried on from ,october #ae to ,june #ae1 or eight months1 the catch is much larger1 and as the animals caught are more valuable1 the catch of a single trapper is sometimes as high as #fjj to #a1jjj4 ,the trapper who stays near home has the advantage of knowing the territory4 ,if he was to visit a strange section1 altho a good trapping locality1 he would not do so well as if he were acquainted with the locality and knew the locations of the best dens4 ,then again his expenses are heavier if he goes into a strange section1 yet ,if there is but little game near your home1 and you are going to make a business of trapping1 go and look up a good trapping section4 ,under these conditions it is best for two or three to go together4 ,there is no necessity of carrying but little baggage other than your gun1 for at the season of the year that prospecting is done there is but little difficulty in killing enough game to live on4 ,after you have once found a good trapping section1 and built your cabin1 deadfalls and snares1 you can go there fall after fall with your line of steel traps1 resetting your deadfalls with but little repairs for years4 ,you will also become better acquainted with the territory each season and will make larger catches4 ,do not think that you have caught all the game the first season1 for generally upon your return the next fall you will find signs of game as numerous as ever4 ,in locating new trapping grounds1 if two or three are together and it is a busy time in ,september1 let one of the party go in advance prospecting4 ,this will save much valuable time when you make the start for the fall and winter trapping campaign4 ,it will pay you to know where you are going before you make the final start4 ,,chapter ,,xii4 ,,where ,,to ,,build4 ,in determining where to set deadfalls or locate snares if you will keep in mind the dens where each winter you have caught fur-bearing animals1 or their tracks have often been seen in the snow or mud1 and build your traps and construct snares at or near such places you are pretty sure to not go astray4 ,the location1 of course1 depends largely upon what kind of game you are trying to catch4 ,if mink or coon1 there is no better place than along streams where there are dens4 ,if there should be a small branch leading off from the main stream1 at the mouth of this is often an excellent place to locate a trap4 ,it should not be too near the water as a rise would damage or perhaps float off at least part of your trap4 ,sometimes farther up this small stream there are bluffs and rocks2 at such places1 if there are dens1 is just the place to build deadfalls4 ,if there are several dens1 and the bluff extends along several hundred feet1 it perhaps will pay to build two or three traps here4 ,in cleared fields1 woods or thickets skunk are found anywhere that there are dens you can construct a trap4 ,while1 as a rule1 the thinly settled districts are the best trapping sections1 yet skunk1 muskrat and red fox are found in greatest numbers in settled sections1 while opossum1 raccoon and mink are found in fairly well settled districts4 ,it is therefore not necessary that you should go to the wilderness to make fairly good catches4 ,while the trapper in the wilderness has the advantage of no one disturbing his deadfalls1 yet he has disadvantages4 ,the trapper who means business need not go hundreds of miles away1 but if he will build a line of traps along some stream where there are mink1 or in the thickets and along rocky buffs for skunk1 raccoon1 opossum1 etc41 he will be surprised at results4 ,in some sections land owners may not allow trapping1 but usually they will1 especially if you take the pains to ask before you commence building or setting your traps4 ,the fact that you have your traps scattered over a large territory gives you better chances of making good catches1 for most animals travel quite a distance from night to night4 ,you may have traps at some stream that is eight or ten miles from your home and a mink may come along that does most of its seeking for food miles farther up or down this stream1 nearer1 perhaps1 where it was raised1 and you get him4 ,thus you see by going only ten miles away you may catch animals that really live twenty4 ,just how far a mink may travel up or down a creek or river ,i do not know1 but it is certain that they go many miles and traps may make a catch of a mink that lives many1 many miles away4 ,of course along small streams they may not go so far4 ,often1 however1 they continue their travels from one stream to another4 ,if you are an expert trapper you can very easily detect1 if you are in a good locality1 especially if in the fall--,september and ,october4 ,these are the two months when the most prospecting is done4 ,going along streams at this season tracks are plainly seen and in the forests at dens signs1 such as hair1 bones and dung4 ,often you will come upon signs where some bird has been devoured and you know that some animal has been in the locality4 ,old trappers readily detect all these signs and new ones can learn by experience4 ,it is not absolutely necessary to build traps at or near dens4 ,some years ago1 ,i remember when doing considerable trapping in ,southern ,ohio1 ,i came upon a deadfall built near a small stream that ran thru a woods4 ,i looked around for dens1 but saw none4 ,why this trap had been built there was a puzzle to me4 ,one day ,i happened upon the owner of the trap and asked him what he expected to catch in that trap4 ,in reply he pointed to a bush some rods distant in which hung the carcasses of two opossum and one coon--caught in the trap4 ,while there were no dens near1 it was a favorite place for animals to cross or else they came there for water4 ,this same trap was the means of this old trapper taking two or three animals each winter1 while other traps at dens near caught less4 ,there is much in knowing where to set traps1 but keep your eyes open for signs and you will learn where to build traps and set snares sooner or later4 99 99 99 ,yes1 boys1 the deadfall is a splendid trap if made right1 says an ,arkansas trapper4 ,i will tell you how to make one that will catch every mink and coon that runs the creek4 ,take a pole four feet long and four inches through1 next get a log six inches through and eight feet long4 ,use eight stakes and two switches4 ,use the figure four trigger1 but the notches are cut different4 ,both of the notches are cut on the top side of the long trigger and a notch cut in the upright trigger and down the long trigger4 ,the paddle part is sixteen inches long4 ,when the trap is set the paddle wants to be level and one-half inch higher than small logs1 then your two switches comes in this to keep the paddle from hitting the bark on side logs4 ,illustration3 ,,trail ,,or ,,den ,,trap4 ,next is where to set4 ,if along a creek1 find a place where the water is within three feet of the bank1 set your trap up and down the creek at edge of water1 dam up from back end of paddle to bank with brush or briars1 then from front end into water three or four feet4 ,you will find the upright trigger has to be a good deal longer than the notch trigger4 ,you can use round triggers if you want to by nailing a shingle five inches wide on the long trigger stick4 ,be sure and have your paddle muddy if setting along creeks4 ,you want to put a little stone back beyond paddle1 so when the trap falls it will not burst paddle4 ,now you have a trap easy made and sure to catch any animal that steps on paddle1 which is five inches wide and sixteen long4 ,you don't need any bait1 but you can use bait by throwing it under paddle4 ,this trap is hard to beat for small game4 99 99 99 ,i make a deadfall that sets without bait1 writes an ,illinois trapper4 ,it is made like any other only different triggers4 ,set it across path1 over or in front of den or remove a rail and set it in the corner of a fence where game goes thru4 ,use thread in dry weather1 fine wire for wet4 ,two logs for bottom is better than one1 make triggers high enough to suit the animal you wish to catch2 if he hits the string or wire he is yours4 ,,chapter ,,xiii4 ,,the ,,proper ,,bait4 ,bait is sometimes difficult to get1 but usually the trapper will get enough with his gun and steel traps to keep his line of deadfalls well baited1 without difficulty4 ,in trapping1 all animals caught after the pelt is taken off should be hung up so that other animals cannot reach them1 but will visit your traps4 ,there are two objects in hanging up bait3 ,first1 other animals coming along are apt to eat them and not visit your deadfall2 second1 should you run out of bait you can cut a piece from the animal hanging up1 bait your trap and go to the next4 ,while bait of this kind is not recommended1 sometimes it comes to this or nothing4 ,fresh bait is what is wanted at all times1 yet the trapper cannot always get what he knows is best and consequently must do the next best4 ,perhaps by his next visit he has bait in abundance4 ,the writer has known trappers to use a piece of skunk1 opossum1 muskrat1 coon1 etc41 that had been caught some weeks before and hung up in a sapling where it froze and on the next visit the trap baited with skunk contained a skunk4 ,this shows that when an animal is very hungry it is not very particular what it eats4 ,in the early fall while food of all kinds is easy to find1 any animal is harder to entice to bait and at this season bait should be fresh if the trapper expects to make profitable catches4 ,the trapper should always carry a gun1 pistol or good revolver with which to help kill game to supply bait for his traps4 ,steel traps set along the line will also help to keep the supply of bait up at all times4 ,if you are successful in securing a great deal of bait1 more than will be used on that round1 you will find it an excellent idea to leave some at certain places where it can be secured on the next round should it be needed4 ,bait may consist of any tough bit of meat1 but rabbit is an excellent bait4 ,quail or almost any bird is good4 ,chicken also makes good bait4 ,squirrel is all right4 ,for mink1 fish is excellent4 ,mice1 frogs and muskrat can all be used4 ,remember that the fresher and bloodier the bait the better--animals will scent it much quicker4 ,they are also fonder of fresh bait than that which has been killed for days or weeks as the case may be4 ,in baiting it is important to see that the bait is on secure4 ,it is a good idea to tie it on with strong thread or small cord4 ,the amount of bait to put on a single trap is not so important4 ,most trappers use a rabbit in baiting ten traps or less2 the head makes bait for one trap1 each foreleg another1 the back about three and each hind leg one1 altho each hind leg can be cut to make bait for two traps4 ,the spindle or trigger is run thru the bait and should be fastened on trigger near the end as shown in illustration elsewhere4 ,the securing of bait on the trigger is an important thing4 ,if it is not on securely and the trap is hard to get off1 the animal may devour bait and the trap not fall4 ,if the trigger is only sticking loosely in the bait1 it is easy for an animal to steal the bait4 ,usually the observing trapper knows these things and are on their guard1 but for those who are using deadfalls this season for the first time1 more explicit explanation is necessary4 ,the bait should extend back into the pen about a foot and the pen should be so constructed that the bait touches nowhere only on the trigger4 ,the animal in eating the bait usually stands with its fore feet upon the under pole1 or just over it4 ,in this condition it can readily be seen1 that if its gnawing at the bait twists the trigger off the upright prop what the consequences will be--the animal will be caught across the back4 ,an animal standing in the position just described will naturally pull down somewhat on the bait and in its eagerness to get the bait pulls and twists the spindle1 or trigger1 off the upright prop4 ,it is a good idea to try the trigger4 ,that is1 place the triggers under the fall just the same as you would if they were baited and you were going to set the trap4 ,by doing this you will find out about how you want to set the triggers so that they will work properly4 ,there is much in being acquainted with the working of traps4 ,study them carefully and you will soon learn to be a successful trapper4 ,,chapter ,,xiv4 ,,traps ,,knocked ,,off4 ,if you find that your traps are down each time you visit them and the bait gone1 the pen is perhaps too large and the animal1 if a small one like a mink1 is going inside to devour bait4 ,animals usually stand with fore feet upon lower log and reach into pen after bait1 but at times they have been known to go inside4 ,in this case the animal is not in danger as when the fall comes down the animal is not under it4 ,if such is the case1 that is1 the animal entirely inside the pen1 the trigger will be caught under the fall and the trapper knows that whatever is molesting his trap is doing so from the inside4 ,all that the trapper has to do is lessen the size of the pen4 ,this can be done by placing small stones or chunks on the inside of the pen or by driving stakes on the inside4 ,by doing this the outside appearance is not changed4 ,if1 on the other hand1 the trigger1 that is the long one or spindle1 not the short prop1 is pulled out each time and often carried several feet1 the trap is set too hard to fall and should be set easier4 ,if the prop1 or upright piece1 is cut square across the top1 take your knife and round off the edges so that the trigger will slip off easier4 ,again the pen may be torn down and the animal takes bait from the rear4 ,here is where it pays to build traps substantial4 ,in such cases rebuild the pen1 making it stronger4 ,should it be torn down on subsequent visits1 the game is perhaps a fox4 ,of course if the pen has been torn down by some trapper or passing hunter1 you can readily detect same by the manner in which it has been done4 ,if the trapper is satisfied that it is an animal that is doing the mischief1 he wants to plan carefully1 and if he is an expert trapper1 a steel trap or two will come into good play and the animal will be caught in the steel trap4 ,the pen will not be torn down again4 ,when traps are down note carefully the condition that they are in2 see that the fall fits on the lower pole closely1 and by the way1 when building this is an important thing to notice--that the fall fits snugly on the lower or under pole4 ,if a snare or spring pole is up but nothing caught1 simply reset4 ,should many snares be up thrown and no catches1 the trouble should be located at once4 ,the noose is probably too large or small or made of limber or too stiff string or wire1 or maybe it is too securely fastened4 ,when resetting1 note all these carefully and experience will sooner or later enable you to set just right to make a catch4 ,if a certain snare is bothered continually1 it will do no harm to set a steel trap where you think chances best of taking the animal4 ,it matters but little to the trapper how the animal is caught1 as it is his pelt that is wanted4 ,in using the trip triggers with or without bait1 the trapper should fasten the bait by either driving a peg through it and into the ground or tieing4 ,in most instances the animal will throw the trap before getting to the bait1 but it is well to take this precaution in case1 for any reason1 the animal should not step on the trip trigger at first4 ,sometimes a small animal may jump over the trip trigger in order to get the bait and in its endeavor to get bait will strike the trigger4 ,the animal does not know that the trigger is dangerous1 but now and then either steps or jumps over4 ,generally they step on the trigger1 for if the trapper is onto his job the bait and trigger are so placed that the animal thinks the trip trigger is the place to put his foot4 ,in using without bait the trigger is so arranged that the animal rubs or steps on the trigger when entering or leaving the pen or if at a trail or runway when passing along4 ,,chapter ,,xv4 ,,spring ,,pole ,,snare4 ,while the deadfall is good for most animals1 there is no one trap that fills all requirements and in all places4 ,some animals may be shy of deadfalls that can be taken in spring poles1 snares and steel traps4 ,this trap is easily and cheaply constructed4 ,it should be made near dens or where animals travel frequently4 ,if a small bush is not growing handy1 cut one4 ,drive a stake deeply in the ground1 pull it out1 stick the larger end of the bush cut into it4 ,the explanation of this trap is as follows3 #a1 bait stick2 #b1 trigger2 #c1 noose made of wire or stout cord2 #d1 stay wire made of wire or cord2 #e1 bait2 #f1 spring pole4 ,by noting carefully the illustration this trap can be built easily4 ,the size of the bush or spring pole1 of course1 depends upon what sized animals you are trapping4 ,this trap will take small game such as mink1 opossum1 skunk1 etc41 or can be made large and strong enough to catch mountain lion or black bear4 99 99 99 ,illustration3 ,,spring ,,pole ,,and ,,snare4 ,the snare is made by building a round fence in a place where there is plenty of small trees4 ,select two about four inches apart for noose and snare entrance1 and another long springy one for spring pole #f or #g feet long1 bend this down and trim it4 ,have a noose made of limber wire or strong string and a cross piece4 ,having cut notches in the sides of the trees for the same to fit1 have it to spring easy4 ,for snaring rabbits have the fence quite high4 ,illustration3 ,,small ,,game ,,snare4 ,observe the above description and you can readily make4 ,no4 #a is the noose1 ,no4 #b is spring pole1 ,no4 #c fence1 ,no4 #d bait4 ,this snare already explained can be made any time in the year while the dead fall can only be constructed when the ground isn't frozen4 99 99 99 ,the snares can be either made of twine or wire4 ,many fox and lynx snare trappers in the ,north use small brass wire4 ,illustration3 ,,wire ,,and ,,twine ,,snare4 ,snares work well in cold weather and if properly constructed are pretty sure catchers4 ,a--,spring pole4 ,b--,staple4 ,c--,two small nails driven in tree4 7,three inch nail head1 end down1 with snare looped at each end with a foot of slack between4 ,as soon as the ,d--three inch nail is pulled down1 it will slip past the nail at top end1 when spring pole will instantly take up the slack1 also the fox1 to staple and does its work47 ,e--,slack line or wire4 ,f--,loop should be #g inches in diameter and bottom of loop ten inches from the ground4 ,remarks--,the nails should be driven above staple so it will pull straight down to release the snare fastening4 ,illustration3 ,,snare ,,loop4 ,a great many foxes have been caught in this country by the plan of the drawing outlined1 writes ,j4 ,c4 ,hunter1 of ,canada4 ,a--the snare1 should be made of rabbit wire1 four or five strand twisted together4 ,should be long enough to make a loop about seven inches in diameter when set4 ,bottom side of snare should be about six inches from the ground4 ,e--is a little stick1 sharp at one end and split at the other1 to stick in the ground and slip bottom of snare in split end1 to hold snare steady4 ,b--is catch to hold down spring pole4 ,c--is stake4 ,d--is spring pole4 ,some bend down a sapling for a spring pole1 but we think the best way is to cut and trim up a small pole about ten feet long2 fasten the big end under a root and bend it down over a crotch1 stake or small tree4 ,snare should be set on a summer sheep path1 where it goes through the bushes4 ,illustration3 ,,path ,,set ,,snare4 ,stake might be driven down a foot or more back from the path1 where a branch of an evergreen bush would hang over it so as to hide it and a string long enough from stake or trigger to snare to rest over path4 99 99 99 ,the setting of a snare is done thus3 ,a good sound tamarac or other pole fifteen or twenty feet long is used for the tossing4 ,the butt end of this must be five or six inches in diameter and the small end about three inches4 ,a tree with a crotch in it is then selected to balance the pole upon4 ,failing to find such a tree in the proper place1 an artificial fork is made by crossing two stout young birch or tamarac1 firmly planted in the ground1 and the two upper points tied together six or ten inches from the top4 ,the balancing or tossing pole is lodged in this fork so that the part towards the butt would out-weigh a bear of two or three hundred pounds suspended from the small end4 ,next a stout little birch or spruce is selected and a section of three or four cut off4 ,from this all the branches are removed1 except one1 the small end is pointed and driven deep into the ground a few inches at one side of the bear road4 ,the snare is made of three twisted strands of eighteen thread cod line and is firmly tied to the tossing pole4 ,a few dried branches are stuck in the ground each side of the path1 the pole is depressed so the very end is caught under the twig on the stick driven in the ground for that purpose and the noose is stiffened by rubbing balsam branches which leave enough gum to make it hold its shape4 ,the noose is kept in the proper position 7the bottom being about sixteen inches above the road and the diameter being about eleven inches7 by blades of dry grass looped to it and the ends let into a gash on sticks at each side1 put there for that purpose4 ,no green branches are used in the hedge about the road because this would make the bear suspicious4 ,the snare is now complete and the hunter stands back and examines it critically4 ,his last act is to rub some beaver castor on the trunk of some tree standing near the road1 ten or twelve feet from the snare4 ,this is done on another tree at the same distance on the opposite side of the snare4 ,bears are attracted by the smell of the castor and rub themselves against the tree in the same way as a dog rubs on carrion4 ,when finished rubbing on one tree he scents the other and in going to get at the fresh one tries to pass thru the snare4 ,he feels the noose tighten about his neck and struggles2 this pulls the end of the tossing pole from under the branch trigger1 up goes the pole and old ,bruin with it4 99 99 99 ,my way1 according to a ,massachusetts trapper1 to trap skunk without scenting1 and it is successful1 is to snare them4 ,use a spring pole and if one does not grow handy1 cut one and set it up as firmly as possible about four or five feet from the burrow and to one side4 ,probably the ground is frozen and you will have to brace it up with logs or stones or perhaps lash it to a stump or root4 ,when the top of the pole is bent down it should be caught under the end of a log or rock on the opposite side of the hole so that it can easily be dislodged by an animal1 either going in or out of the burrow4 ,the snare or noose is attached to the spring pole directly over the center of the burrows and the bottom of the noose should be an inch and a half or two inches from the ground to allow the animal's feet to pass under it and his little pointed nose to go thru the center4 ,set the noose as closely over the entrance of the hole as possible and one or two carefully arranged twigs will keep it in place4 ,strong twine is better for the noose than large cord as the skunk is less liable to notice it4 ,when a skunk passes in or out of the hole the noose becomes tightened about his neck and a slight pull releases the spring pole which soon strangles him4 ,while this may seem an elaborate description of so simple a trap1 still1 like any other trap1 if set in a careless1 half-hearted manner1 it will meet with indifferent success and1 tho simple the snare1 with a little thought and ingenuity can be applied in almost any situation for the capture of small game4 ,,chapter ,,xvi4 ,,trail ,,set ,,snare4 ,many of the boys1 writes an ,indiana trapper1 have come forth with their particular snares and methods of making same1 all of which ,i believe are good1 but most of them require to be baited1 which is one bad feature as applied to certain districts1 for such has been my experience that in many localities it is utterly impossible to get animals to take bait4 ,this snare may be used as a blind or set with bait as your trapping grounds1 or rather the animals1 may require4 ,it is very inexpensive and so simple any boy can make it4 ,first get a strip of iron one-eighth inch thick1 three-eighths or one-half wide4 ,cut it in nine inch lengths and bend in the shape of ,fig4 #b1 having drilled a one-fourth inch hole in either end4 ,next secure some light sheet iron1 or heavy tin1 cut in pieces #b #c_/d inches by #e #c_/d inches for the pan1 and drill a one-fourth inch hole in center of same as shown in ,fig4 #c4 ,it is now a very easy matter to rivet the pan or ,fig4 #c to ,fig4 #b4 ,this done1 take some #bj penny spikes and cut off the heads as per ,fig4 #a4 ,illustration3 ,,trip ,,pan ,,or ,,plate4 ,now brass1 or preferably copper wire1 can be had on spools at most any hardware store1 which is used for the loops1 as it is so pliable yet sufficiently strong to hold any of the small fur bearers1 as it is made in many sizes4 ,use the brass or copper wire only for the loops1 as ordinary stove pipe wire is just the article for the finishing of the snare4 ,for a blind set to be placed in the run of the animals1 make a double loop1 that is1 two loops for each snare4 ,now1 take a bunch of these with you and find the runs or follow the ravines and creeks where they feed4 ,if you can find a tree in a favorable spot on their runs1 take one of your headless spikes and drive in the base of the tree a few inches from the ground4 ,now take ,no4 #b with the pan riveted thereon and hook bent and over spike1 driving spike into tree until pan is level and until there is just room enough to hook loop of wire over head of spike4 7,see illustration47 ,dig out under pan so same can fall when stepped upon4 ,then secure a rock or chunk of sufficient weight and fasten to other end of wire4 ,throw this over limb of tree and hook loop over head of a spike1 having first put ,no4 #b in place4 ,put one loop on one side of the pan and the other loop on the other side1 so that an animal coming either way will step upon the pan to his sorrow4 ,this done1 drive a staple in tree over wire running from spike to limb1 which will prevent the animal being pulled over the limb and escaping4 ,illustration3 ,,double ,,trail ,,set4 ,having covered everything up with the natural surroundings and left no signs1 you may claim the first furrier that happens that way and he will be waiting for you4 ,this snare may also be used with the ordinary spring pole by driving spike in a stake1 then the stake in the ground1 in which case it is best to make the usual ,v-shaped pen with stakes or stones1 covering same over at top and setting so the pan will be right in the mouth of the pen and the single loop just between pan and bait4 ,in this way they tread upon the pan just before they reach the bait4 ,you find this snare easily thrown4 ,they will not cost you over three cents a piece1 and any man can easily carry one hundred of them and not be half loaded4 99 99 99 ,in many ways the snare is splendid for lynx4 ,here in ,western ,ontario1 says a well known trapper1 where the lynx seldom take bait1 they may be taken quite easily in snares set on snowshoe trails4 ,fig4 #a shows a wire snare set on such a trail4 ,i go about it in the following manner3 ,having found a suitable place along the edge of some swamp or alder thicket1 ,i cut a spruce or balsam tree1 about ten or twelve feet long1 and throw it across the trail4 ,i press the tree down until the stem of the tree is about twenty inches above the trail1 and make an opening in the trail by cutting a few of the limbs away on the under side of the trail4 ,then ,i set a couple of dead stakes on each side so as to leave the opening about ten inches wide and hang my snare between these stakes and directly under the stem of the tree4 ,illustration3 ,,trail ,,set ,,snares4 ,the snare should be about nine inches in diameter and should be fastened securely to the tree4 ,it should also be fastened lightly to the stakes on either side1 so it will not spring out of shape4 ,the best way is to make a little split in the side of each stake1 and fasten the snare with a very small twig stuck in the split stake4 ,i make the snares of rabbit wire1 about four or five plies thick1 twisted4 ,some trappers prefer to use a cord4 ,the dark colored codfish line is best1 and it is best to use a spring pole snare1 and ,fig4 #c shows the method of tieing and fastening to the stakes4 ,it will be seen that when the lynx passes his head through the snare he only needs to give a slight pull to open the slip knot and release the spring pole4 ,to prevent the rabbits from biting a cord snare1 rub it well with the dropping of the lynx or fox and also1 never use any green wood other than spruce or balsam1 as any fresh green wood is sure to attract the rabbits4 ,you may also put a small piece of beaver castor along the trail on each side of the snare1 and you will be more sure of the lynx1 as beaver castor is very attractive to these big cats4 99 99 99 ,we will now proceed to make another spring pole snare1 altho the one described before is more practical1 says a ,colorado trapper4 ,it is made like the preceding one except the trigger1 etc4 ,this one is to be used on a runway without any bait whatever4 ,the illustration shows the trigger as it appears in the runway4 ,no4 #a is the trip stick2 ,no4 #b1 the stay crotch2 ,no4 #c1 the trigger2 ,no4 #d1 the loop2 ,no4 #e1 the pathway1 and ,no4 ,g1 the stay wire4 ,illustration3 ,,path ,,snare4 ,the animal in coming on down the path 7#e7 passes its body or neck thru the loop made of stout soft insulated wire 7#d72 in passing it steps on the trip stick 7#a7 which settles with the animal's weight1 releasing the trigger 7#c7 which in turn releases the stay wire 7#f7 and jerks the loop 7#d7 around the animal2 the spring pole onto which the stay-wire it attached lifts your game up into the air1 choking it to death and placing it out of reach of other animals that would otherwise destroy your fur4 ,a small notch cut in the stay crotch where the end of the trip stick rests will insure the trigger to be released4 ,this will hold the trip stick firm at the end1 making it move only at the end where the animal steps4 ,,chapter ,,xvii4 ,,bait ,,set ,,snare4 ,this snare ,i consider good for such animals as will take bait4 7,see page #ada47 ,no4 #a and #b1 headless wire nails driven horizontally into tree about ten inches from ground4 ,no4 #c1 a ,no4 #aj or #ab wire nail with head used to catch under ,no4 #a and #b4 ,no4 #d1 bait stick or trigger4 ,no4 #c passes through ,no4 #d4 ,no4 #e1 bait1 frog tied to bottom of ,no4 #d4 ,no4 #f's snare1 fastened to ,no4 #c by two half hitches1 then fastened to ,no4 #c by two half hitches1 then fastened to seven or spring pole4 ,no4 #g1 spring pole4 ,nos4 #h1 #h1 small stakes driven in ground to form a pen4 ,nos4 #i1 #i1 two small twigs split at top to hold snare loop in place4 ,nos4 #a and #b should be about #d inches apart4 ,no4 #c goes through a gimlet hole in ,no4 #d4 ,about three inches from the top use any small round stick from #a_/b to #a inch in thickness1 not necessary to flatten ,no4 #d as in illustration4 ,use it natural bark on4 ,from hole in ,no4 #d to bottom end should be about #g inches4 ,illustration3 ,,rat ,,runway ,,snare4 ,,underground ,,rat ,,runway4 ,,runway ,,and ,,cubby ,,set4 ,,log ,,set ,,snare4 ,,cow ,,path ,,snare4 ,snare loop about #f inches in front of bait1 held in place by #i1 #i1 slightly leaning against #h1h4 ,it can be plainly seen that if an animal takes ,no4 #e in its jaws and tries to remove it1 it moves out the bottom of ,no4 #d1 moving forward ,no4 #c until1 flip6 up she goes4 ,the top of ,no4 #d must be tight against the tree when set4 ,illustration3 ,,lifting ,,pole ,,snare4 ,no4 #c should just catch under ,no4 #a and #b1 then it takes but #a_/b inch to pull on bait to spring it4 ,bait with frogs1 fish1 tainted meat for skunk1 and pieces of rabbit1 muskrat or bird1 for mink4 ,the lynx1 like the wolverine1 is not afraid of a snowshoe track1 and will follow a line of rabbit snare for long distances1 and when he sees a bunny hanging up1 he1 without the least compunction1 appropriates it to himself1 by right of discovery4 ,when he does this once he will come again and the ,indian hunter1 knowing this1 at once sets a snare for ,mister ,cat4 ,sometimes when the thief has left a portion of the rabbit1 a branch house is built up against the trunk of some tree1 the remains of the rabbit placed at the back and the snare set at the doorway4 ,illustration3 ,,bait ,,set ,,snare4 ,a stout birch stick is cut about three or four feet long and lodged on a forked stick at each side of the door and about two and a half feet high4 ,to the middle of this crossbar the end of the twine is tied2 ,no4 #i ,holland is generally used1 or ,no4 #f thread cod line4 ,this is gummed by rubbing balsam branches up and down the twine in the same way as the bear snare4 ,the noose is held in shape in one or two places at each side by a light strand of wood or blade of grass and a couple of small dry sticks are placed upright under the snare to prevent the cat from passing beneath4 ,the loop is almost as large as for a bear and as high from the ground1 if not higher4 ,the lynx has long legs and carries his head straight in front of him and takes a snare by pushing thru it1 or by a rush1 never crouching and then springing4 ,as the resort of rabbits is a young growth of country1 there are also lynx in the greatest numbers4 ,rabbits and partridges are their principal food4 ,when the ,indian enters a new piece of country to set rabbit snares to support his wife and family and sees signs of lynx1 he combines the two kinds of hunting and as he goes along1 once in a while1 he bars his snowshoe track by placing a lynx snare in the way4 ,the lynx are fond of the smell of castor1 as indeed are most animals1 so the hunter rubs a little on a tree at each side of his snare for the cat to rub against when he comes that way4 ,the snare is never tied to anything immovable1 as they are very powerful and would break the twine4 ,as soon as the noose tightens the cross piece comes readily away from the supports and the cat springs to one side4 ,the stick1 however1 either knocks him a blow or gets tangled in his legs4 ,this he tries several times1 but with the same result1 that bothersome stick is always hanging to his neck4 ,about the last effort he makes to free himself is to ascend a tree4 ,this1 however1 is nearly always fatal1 for after he gets up a certain distance this trouble some stick is sure to get fast back of some limb4 ,the lynx by this time1 having become a pretty cross cat1 makes matters worse and the hunter finds him hanging dead1 at times twenty or thirty feet from the earth4 ,,chapter ,,xviii ,,the ,,box ,,trap4 ,this trap is put to various uses4 ,the beginner usually has one or two with which he traps for rabbits4 ,in fact they are great for that for the animal is not injured1 which is often the case when shot or caught by dogs4 ,rabbits caught in box traps are therefore the best for eating4 ,the trapper who wants to secure fur-bearers alive to sell to parks1 menageries or to start a fur ranch usually uses the box trap4 ,the size for rabbits is about #cj inches long by #e wide and #f high4 ,the boards can be of any kind but pine1 poplar1 etc41 being light is much used4 ,the boards need only be a half inch thick4 ,to make a trap you will need four pieces #cj inches long2 two of these for the sides should be six inches wide2 the other two for top and bottom should be #e inches4 ,these pieces should be nailed on the top and bottom of the sides4 ,this will make the inside of the trap six inches high by four wide4 ,it is best to have your trap narrow so that the animal you are trapping cannot turn in the trap4 ,in one end of the trap wires or small iron rods should be placed 7see illustration74 ,these should be about an inch apart4 ,in the other end the door is constructed4 ,this can be made out of wire also4 ,the bottom of door should strike about eight inches inside4 ,it will be seen that an animal pushing against the door1 from the outside1 raises it1 but once on the inside the more they push against it the tighter it becomes4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,box ,,trap4 ,the trap can be set at holes where game is known to be1 or can be placed where game frequents and baited4 ,if bait is used place a little prop under the door and place bait back in trap a foot or more4 ,bait to use of course depending upon what you are trapping4 ,the trap described is about right size for the common rabbit and mink4 ,for skunk and opossum a trap a little larger will be required4 ,for mink and other animals that are gnawers the traps should be visited daily for they may gnaw and escape4 ,if impossible to visit traps daily they should be lined with tin4 ,in many places these traps1 with a door at each end1 are used for catching muskrat4 ,they are set in their dens under water and either tied or weighted down4 ,the rats are caught either going in or leaving4 ,in making these traps the beginner is apt to make them too wide--so the animal can turn within4 ,this is a mistake for it gives the game more freedom and room to gnaw to liberty4 ,the animal simply goes in and is there until the trapper comes along and removes the game4 ,skunk can be drowned when caught in this trap without scenting if the trapper knows how to go about it4 ,the trap should be handled carefully4 ,take to water sufficiently deep to cover the trap and slowly sink and then either weight the trap or hold down until the animal is drowned4 ,the box trap is a humane trap if visited daily4 ,they are rather unhandy to carry about and few trappers want many1 yet under certain conditions they are very useful4 ,they can be made during idle time4 ,for mink and other shy animals they should be handled as little as possible4 ,they should be made of old boards or at least avoid all appearances of newness4 99 99 99 ,some sections saplings to make deadfalls cannot be had and for the benefit of such1 a wooden trap1 three feet long and six inches wide and deep1 is a good manner to take muskrat1 writes a ,western trapper4 ,the boards can be cut out of any old lumber4 ,in each end is a wire door1 hung on hinges at the top4 ,these doors rise at the slightest push on the outside1 but will not open from the inside4 ,the trap is sunk in the water at the entrance to the den and is fastened there4 ,a muskrat in entering or leaving the den is sure to enter the trap4 ,the animal1 of course1 could gnaw out1 but will drown before it has time to accomplish this4 ,several rats are often taken1 where they are numerous1 in a night4 ,traps of this kind can be used to best advantage in lakes and ponds or where the height of the stream does not vary much4 ,if they are set along creeks and rivers you want to fasten them securely or take them up before heavy rains1 as they are almost sure to be washed away4 99 99 99 ,i see in a recent number where ,george ,walker wanted some one to tell through ,h-,t-,t how to make box trap to catch muskrat4 ,here is a good way3 ,first take four boards #cf inches long1 nail together leaving both ends open4 ,next a small gate1 consisting of a square piece of wood supplied with a few stiff wires is then pivoted inside of each opening so as to work freely and fall easily when raised4 ,the bait is fastened inside the center of the box4 ,the animal in quest of the bait finds an easy entrance1 as the wires lift at slight pressure1 but the exit after the gate has closed is so difficult that escape is almost beyond question4 ,to insure further strength it is advisable to connect the lower ends of the wires by a cross piece of fine wire twisted about each4 ,if you have good luck you can catch two and three in this trap each night4 ,set in two or three inches of water where muskrat frequents1 or set in skunk dens4 ,,chapter ,,xix4 ,,the ,,coop ,,trap4 ,this trap is used with great success for catching wild turkey1 pheasants1 quail and other feathered game4 ,in some states the law forbids the use of this and similar traps4 ,the trap is built like an ordinary rail pen4 ,in fact1 some use small rails when constructing this trap for wild turkey1 while others build of small straight poles4 ,the pen is usually six feet or more square and about three high4 ,the coop is stronger if drawn in from bottom to top 7see illustration74 ,the top must be covered and weighted4 ,a ditch is now dug about a foot wide4 ,this ditch should begin about three feet from coop and lead within4 ,corn or other grain is scattered on the outside and in the trench leading into the coop4 ,on the inside considerable should be scattered in the leaves and small but short twigs4 ,the turkeys once on the inside will eat the grain and scratch among the leaves which generally partly fill the trench and as the birds are usually looking up1 when not eating1 they do not think of the trench thru which they entered4 ,the same trap will catch quail1 but of course is built much smaller4 ,about three feet square being large enough and a foot high is sufficient4 ,some have built quail coops out of cornstalks and report catches4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,coop ,,trap4 ,the quail coop should have the ditch leading to the inside the same as described for turkey4 ,of course the ditch should be much smaller--only large enough for one bird to enter at a time4 ,on the inside of coop it is a good idea to lay a board six inches or wider over the ditch4 ,the bait should be wheat or other small grain or seeds that the birds like4 ,scatter thinly on the outside and in the trench1 but on the inside place more liberally4 ,chaff or leaves should be placed on the inside so that the birds in scratching for the grain will partly fill up the hole thru which they came4 ,quail1 turkey and other feathered game once on the inside and after eating the bait never think of going down into the ditch and out1 but walk round and round the coop looking thru the chinks and trying to escape4 ,the largest catches are made by baiting where the birds frequent for some days or even weeks before trying to make a catch4 ,it is well to make the coops long in advance so that the birds will be accustomed to them1 especially wild turkey4 ,these traps are some times used with the figure #d trigger1 but when thus set seldom more than one or two birds are caught at a time4 ,,chapter ,,xx4 ,,the ,,pit ,,trap4 ,this method of catching game and fur bearing animals is not much used1 as the labor in connection with making a pit trap is considerable4 ,the method1 however1 is an excellent one for taking some of the larger animals1 especially when they are wanted for parks1 menageries1 etc41 uninjured4 ,the pit should be several feet deep and bait placed as shown4 ,another way is to cover the top with rotten limbs1 leaves1 etc41 and place the bait on this4 ,the animal in trying to secure the bait breaks thru4 ,the dirt from the pit should be removed in baskets4 ,catches are made by digging a pit across animal runways or trails4 ,when the ground is not frozen or during rainy weather it is well to place a board several inches wide at top4 ,the animal in going over its usual trail steps upon the frail covering and falls thru4 ,while the pit trap is mostly used for capturing large game1 it can be used to advantage for taking many of the smaller fur bearers4 ,where muskrat are numerous1 instead of digging a pit1 secure a box about three feet deep4 ,the width and length make no difference4 ,place a few flat rocks in the bottom and place in the water where rats frequent4 ,make the box solid4 ,the box must be water tight4 ,the weight should bring the top of box to within a few inches of water4 ,a couple of boards or chunks should be so placed that the rats will climb up them and to the box along the edge of which the bait is placed4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,pit ,,trap4 ,the pit trap can be used where skunk and other animals frequent4 ,bait the place for some days before the pit is dug4 ,if the pit is to be used without bait1 then find the runways of the animal and dig the pit4 ,while some animals may not be shy1 if a little fresh dirt is lying around1 yet it is best to be very careful and carry all earth taken out of pit a few rods to one side4 ,pits of this kind should be several feet deep4 ,the success the hunter or trapper has in using this method will depend largely upon his knowledge of the game he is after4 ,unless the animal or animals are wanted alive1 the work to make a pit is too great and the chances of a catch never certain4 ,this way is not practicable under ordinary circumstances1 yet where the game is wanted alive and sound1 is worth trying4 ,,chapter ,,xxi4 ,,number ,,of ,,traps4 ,in some localities there are not many dens and trappers make use of about all when trapping that section1 but in other parts of the country dens are so numerous that to place a trap at each is impossible4 ,in states where groundhogs 7woodchucks71 are numerous there are often a hundred or more dens along a single bluff or rocky bank4 ,to have enough steel traps to set one at each is something few trappers do1 yet two or three deadfalls in connection with a line of steel traps is all that is necessary and the trapper can move on to the next bluff where dens are numerous and set another trap or two4 ,as a rule it is where there are many dens1 close together1 that deadfalls make the best catches1 yet when you find a good den anywhere1 set or construct a deadfall4 ,all trappers have noticed when tracking animals in the snow that they visit nearly every den along their route1 not always going in but just sticking their head in4 ,when thus investigating1 the animal smells the bait and is hungry 7as nine times out of ten the animal is hunting something to eat71 and if your trap is set properly you are reasonably sure to make a catch4 ,in the ,north1 ,canada1 ,alaska and some of the states on the ,canadian border where trapping is made a business1 it is no uncommon thing for one man to have as many as one hundred and fifty traps and some have out twice that many1 or three hundred4 ,marten trappers in the trackless forests often blaze out a route fifty or more miles in length1 building shelters along the line where nights are spent4 ,the trapper who only spends a few hours each day at trapping and lives in thickly settled districts will find that it is hard for him to locate suitable places perhaps for more than thirty to fifty traps1 yet if these will be looked at properly during the season the catch will justify the time and labor in building4 ,the number of deadfalls and snares that each trapper should construct in his section must largely be determined by himself1 depending upon how large a territory he has to trap over without running into other trappers' grounds4 ,it will be little use to build traps where there are other trappers as trouble will occur1 traps may be torn to pieces1 etc4 ,yet there are many good places to build traps in your immediate locality no doubt4 ,if there are any creeks near and woods along the banks you will find good places at both creek and in the woods4 ,if in sections where there is no forest1 like some western states1 deadfalls trapping may be difficult from the fact that there is nothing to build them with4 ,in such cases the portable traps1 7described elsewhere7 in this book1 can probably be used to advantage1 but best of all in such places is steel traps4 ,the number of deadfalls and snares that a trapper can attend to is large1 from the fact that the game is killed and as the weather is usually cold1 the traps need not be looked at only about twice each week4 ,in the ,north1 many trappers have such long lines that they do not get over them only once a week4 ,the trouble where deadfalls are only looked at once in seven days is that other animals are apt to find the game and may injure the fur1 or even destroy the pelt4 ,where snares with spring pole attachment are used1 and the weather is cold1 the trapper need not make the rounds only once a week1 as all animals will be suspended in the air and out of the reach of flesh eaters4 ,south of #dj degrees where the weather is not severe1 it is policy to look at traps at least twice a week1 and in the extreme ,south the trapper should make his rounds every day4 ,it will thus be seen that a trapper in the ,north can attend more deadfalls and snares than one in the ,south or even in the ,central ,states4 ,no trapper should have more traps or longer lines than he can properly attend to4 ,the fur bearing animals are none too numerous without having them caught and their pelts and fur spoiled before the arrival of the trapper4 ,,chapter ,,xxii4 ,,when ,,to ,,trap4 ,the proper season to begin trapping is when cold weather comes4 ,the old saying that fur is good any month that has an r in does not hold good except in the ,north4 ,even there ,september is too early to begin1 yet muskrat and skunk are worth something as well as other furs4 ,in the spring ,april is the last month with an r4 ,in most sections muskrat1 bear1 beaver1 badger and otter are good all thru ,april1 but other animals began shedding weeks before4 ,the rule for trappers to follow is to put off trapping in the fall until nights are frosty and the ground freezes4 ,generally speaking in ,canada and the more ,northern ,states trappers can begin about ,november #a and should cease ,march #a1 with the exception of water animals1 bear and badger1 which may be trapped a month later4 ,in the ,central and ,southern ,states trappers should not begin so early and should leave off in the spring from one to four weeks sooner--depending upon how far ,south they are located4 ,at the interior ,hudson ,bay posts1 where their word is law1 ,october #be is appointed to begin and ,may #beth to quit hunting and trapping with the exception of bear1 which are considered prime up to ,june #aj4 ,remember that the above dates are for the interior or ,northern ,h4 ,b4 ,posts1 which are located hundreds of miles north of the boundary between the ,united ,states and ,canada4 ,the skunk is the first animal to become prime1 then the coon1 marten1 fisher1 mink and fox1 but the latter does not become strictly prime until after a few days of snow1 says an old ,maine trapper4 ,rats and beaver are late in priming up as well as otter and mink1 and tho the mink is not strictly a land animal1 it becomes prime about with the later land animals4 ,the bear1 which is strictly a land animal1 is not in good fur until snow comes and not strictly prime until ,february or ,march4 99 99 99 ,with the first frosts and cool days many trappers begin setting and baiting their traps4 ,that it is easier to catch certain kinds of fur-bearing animals early in the season is known to most trappers and for this reason trapping in most localities is done too early in the season4 ,some years ago when trapping was done even earlier than now1 we examined mink skins that were classed as ,no4 #d and worth #aj or #ae cents1 that1 had they been allowed to live a few weeks longer1 their hides would have been ,no4 #a and worth1 according to locality1 from #a4ej to #c4ej each4 ,this early trapping is a loss to the trapper if they will only pause and think4 ,there are only so many animals in a locality to be caught each winter and why catch them before their fur is prime8 ,in the latitude of ,southern ,ohio1 ,indiana1 ,illinois1 etc41 skunk caught in the month of ,october are graded back from one to three grades 7and even sometimes into trash71 where if they were not caught until ,november #aeth how different would be the classification4 ,the same is true of opossum1 mink1 muskrat1 coon1 fox1 etc4 99 99 99 ,skunk are one of the animals that become prime first each fall4 ,the date that they become prime depends much on the weather4 ,fifteen years ago1 when trapping in ,southern ,ohio1 the writer has sold skunk at winter prices caught as early as ,october #af1 while other seasons those caught the #gth of ,november1 or three weeks later1 blued and were graded back4 ,am glad to say that years ago ,i learned not to put out traps until ,november4 ,that the weather has much to do with the priming of furs and pelts there is no question4 ,if the fall is colder than usual the furs will become prime sooner1 while if the freezing weather is later the pelts will be later in priming up4 ,in the sections where weasel turn white 7then called ermine by many71 trappers have a good guide4 ,when they become white they are prime and so are most other land animals4 ,in fact1 some are fairly good a week or two before4 ,when a pelt is put on the stretcher and becomes blue in a few days it is far from prime and will grade no better than ,no4 #b4 ,if the pelt turns black the chances are that the pelt will grade ,no4 #c or #d1 ,in the case of mink1 when dark spots only appear on the pelt1 it is not quite prime4 ,trappers and hunters should remember that no pelt is prime or ,no4 #a when it turns the least blue4 ,opossum skins seldom turn blue even if caught early--most other skins do4 ,,chapter ,,xxiii4 ,,season',s ,,catch4 ,the reason that many trappers make small catches1 each season1 is from the fact that they spend only an hour or so each day at trapping1 while at most other business the party devotes the entire day4 ,the trapper who looks out his grounds some weeks in advance of the trapping season is not idling his time away4 ,he should also have a line of traps constructed in advance of the trapping season4 ,there is a fascination connected with trapping that fills one with a strange feeling when all alone constructing deadfalls and snares or on the rounds to see what success has been yours4 ,i have often visited traps of old trappers1 where from two to five carcasses were hanging from a nearby sapling4 ,there are several instances on record where two animals have been caught in one deadfall at the same time4 ,a well-known trapper of ,ohio claims to have caught three skunk in one deadfall at one time a few years since4 ,whether such is an actual fact or not we are unable to say4 ,the cases on record where two animals have been caught are so well substantiated that there is little room left to doubt the truth of same4 ,the catching of two animals at the same time is not such an extraordinary occurrence as many1 at first1 think4 ,if two animals should come along at the same time and1 smelling the bait1 begin a meal1 the result is easily seen4 ,while trapping with deadfalls is a humane way of catching fur-bearing animals1 another thing in their favor is that skunk are usually killed without perfuming themselves1 trap and trapper as well4 ,then1 again1 if once caught1 there is no getting away4 ,trappers in the forest always have the necessary tools1 axe or heavy hatchet and knife1 with which to build a deadfall1 while their steel traps may all be exhausted and none set within miles4 ,a deadfall is built and perhaps on the trapper's return an animal is lying dead between the poles4 99 99 99 ,during extreme cold weather there is but little use to look at traps set for skunk1 raccoon1 etc41 as they do not travel4 ,before a thaw or warm spell the entire line should be gone over and all old bait removed and replaced with fresh bait4 ,like many another trapper you will visit your traps time after time without catching much if any fur1 yet if your traps are properly constructed and are spread over a large area1 you will catch considerable fur during the season4 ,deadfalls and snares can be strung out for miles and while they should be looked at every other day1 in good trapping weather1 they can be neglected1 if the trapper cannot get around more than twice a week1 without game escaping4 ,if you visit your traps frequently there will be no loss from injury to fur4 ,while it is true1 should a small animal be caught in a heavy trap1 one built for much larger game1 it will be considerably flattened out1 yet the skin or fur is not damaged4 ,there is nothing to damage your catch1 in most sections1 unless you do not visit your traps often enough in warm weather1 when they may be faintly tainted4 ,most trapping is done1 however1 in cool weather1 but occasionally there may come a warm spell when skins become tainted4 ,if found in such condition skin as soon as possible and place upon boards or stretchers4 ,another thing greatly to the advantage of the deadfall and snare trapper is the fact that a trapper never knows just when he will be able to visit his traps again2 the unexpected often happens1 and should it be a day or so longer than expected the deadfall or snare still securely holds the game4 ,as all experienced trappers know1 the first night of a cold spell is a splendid one for animals to travel 7they seem forewarned about the weather7 and a good catch is the result4 ,if the trapper is a weather prophet his traps are all freshly baited and in order1 for this is the time that game is on the move--often looking up new and warm dens and generally hungry4 ,should the next days be cold and stormy the trapper should get over the line as promptly as possible4 ,after once getting over the line after the cold spell1 it is not so important that traps be looked at for some days again4 ,the successful trapper will always be on the watch of the weather4 ,some animals1 it is true1 travel during the coldest weather1 but there are many that do not1 so that the trapper who sees that his deadfalls are freshly baited when the signs point to warmer weather4 ,after days and nights of severe weather most animals are hungry and when the weather moderates they are on the move4 99 99 99 ,i have more than one hundred deadfalls and catch large numbers of skunk1 writes a ,connecticut trapper4 ,a few years ago a trapper within two miles of here caught more than #fj coon in deadfalls4 ,since then coon have been rather scarce1 but ,i am going to try them this coming fall4 ,i prefer red squirrel for skunk bait to anything else1 and extract of valerian for scent4 ,try it1 trapper--it can't be beat4 ,i have used it for twenty years and can catch my share every time4 99 99 99 ,the trapper that makes the largest catches usually is the one that has deadfalls and snares in addition to steel traps4 ,recently two trappers wrote of their season's catch and added that a good proportion was caught in deadfalls and snares4 ,these trappers were located in ,western ,canada2 marten #ed1 lynx #ab1 mink #ai1 ermine #ga1 wild cat #aa1 foxes #ah4 ,while these trappers did not say1 it is presumed that the foxes were caught in snares or steel traps1 for it is seldom that one is caught in a deadfall4 ,in ,canada and the ,new ,england ,states1 where foxes are plentiful1 the snare is used to a considerable extent4 ,skunk1 mink1 ermine1 weasel and opossum are easily caught in deadfalls4 ,one trapper in a southern state is said to have caught #id mink1 besides #ch coon and #eg opossum1 in #bh deadfalls1 from ,november #beth to ,february #beth1 or three months4 ,,chapter ,,xxiv4 ,,general ,,information4 ,early in ,september1 #aijf1 the editor spent a couple of days at his home in ,southern ,ohio1 where in the '#hj's along and near a small stream known as ,kyger ,creek1 considerable trapping was done4 ,if readers are curious and have a good1 large map of ,ohio1 and look at the southern border1 some fifty miles above the mouth of the ,scioto river1 on a direct line or about double that by following the winding of the river1 they will find ,kyger ,creek4 ,the stream is about ten miles long and empties into the ,ohio river below the village of ,cheshire4 ,the country is rather rough and rocky1 but the timber has mainly disappeared4 ,a quarter of a century ago1 opossum1 muskrat1 skunk1 and fox were more numerous than now4 ,mink at that time were few1 but in the early '#hj's they seemed to become fairly plentiful all at once4 ,the high price has caused considerable trapping1 and their number has decreased of recent years4 ,in trapping we found deadfalls1 properly made1 set and baited to be an excellent trap for mink1 skunk and opossum4 ,as there were few coon where we were trapping1 but few were caught1 yet an old trapper nearby caught several in both deadfalls and steel traps each season4 ,there is no doubt but that a trapper who expects to remain months at the same place should have a few deadfalls4 ,these traps1 like steel traps1 to make catches1 do not depend upon numbers so much as correct and careful construction and setting4 ,a half dozen deadfalls located at the right places1 carefully built and properly set1 are worth probably as much as fifty carelessly constructed and located at haphazard4 ,some object to deadfalls because fox are seldom caught in them4 ,it is true that few fox are taken in deadfalls1 although in the far ,north some are1 and especially ,arctic and ,white fox4 ,the deadfall trapper1 however1 who gives care and attention to his traps finds them fur takers4 ,they can be built small for weasel or a little larger for mink1 marten and civet cat2 or larger for opossum and skunk2 still heavier for coon and wild cat and even to a size that kills bear4 ,some trappers find the mink hard to catch4 ,at some seasons they are easy to take in deadfalls4 ,long in the '#hj's in five winters eight mink were caught in one deadfall4 ,the first winter one was caught2 second1 two2 third1 three2 fourth and fifth1 each one4 ,if our memory serves us right1 the trap was first built in the fall of #ahhg1 and was located on the bank about ten feet to the left of a sycamore1 which at that time was standing4 ,there was a den under the tree entering near the water1 with an outlet on the bank only a few feet from the trap1 and near where the pen and bait were located4 ,this deadfall was built much like the illustration shown here4 ,while the fall was of hickory1 not a vestige remained when looking at the place in ,september1 #aijf4 ,the pen should be built strong and tight so that the animal will not tear it to pieces and get at the bait from the rear4 ,the fall or top pole can be of any kind of wood1 but hickory1 oak1 beech1 maple1 and other heavy wood are all good4 ,the pole should be heavy enough to kill the animal without placing any weights on it4 ,when building it is a good idea to let the top pole extend about a couple of feet beyond the pen4 ,this will give more weight on the animal when the trap falls4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,good ,,catcher4 ,the two piece triggers may work hard1 especially if the log used for the fall has rough bark on4 ,in this case it might be well to smooth with your axe or hatchet4 ,in setting with the two piece trigger make them out of as hard wood as can be found4 ,the long piece can be slightly flattened on the under side1 or the side on which the upper end of the upright or prop sets4 ,the prop should be cut square on the lower end while the upper end might be a little rounding1 as this will tend to make the top or bait trigger slip off easier4 ,in setting raise up the top pole and hold in position with the knee4 ,this gives both hands free to adjust the triggers4 ,when you think you have them right1 gradually let the weight off your knee and then try the trigger4 ,you will soon learn about how they are to be set4 ,the bait should be tied on or the bait trigger may have a prong on to hold the bait4 ,if you find the bait gone and the trap still up the chances are that it was set too hard and the animal stole the bait4 ,of late years in some sections1 mice have been very troublesome1 eating the bait4 ,in other places birds are bait stealers1 and for this reason it is best to set traps rather hard to throw4 ,the location of a deadfall has much to do with the catch4 ,old trappers know if they were to set a steel trap in a place not frequented by fur bearers that their catch would be next to nothing4 ,the same applies to all sets1 whether steel traps1 snares or deadfalls4 ,in the illustration it will be noticed that the opening or the side which the animal enters for bait is facing the creek4 ,when building these traps it will be found best to leave the open side toward the water if trapping for mink or coon1 as they generally leave the edge of the water going directly to dens along and near the bank4 ,the under log in the deadfall shown does not extend but a few inches beyond the two end stakes4 ,it should extend eight or ten inches beyond4 ,the four stakes at pen must be of sufficient length that when the trap is set they extend above the top or fall pole4 ,if they did not1 the trap in falling1 might catch on the end of one of the stakes and not go down4 ,along streams these traps need not be close4 ,a couple to the mile is plenty4 ,of course1 if there are places where dens are numerous more can be built to advantage1 while along other stretches of water it may be useless to build them at all4 ,it all depends upon whether animals travel there4 ,you cannot catch them in any kind of trap if they are not there4 ,for opossum1 skunk1 mink1 civet cat1 coon1 ermine1 etc41 find where the animals live or where they go frequently searching for food4 ,if building where there are dens1 either locate within a few feet of the one that appears best or just off the path that the animal takes in going from one to the other4 ,have the open part next to path and say only three feet off4 ,marten trappers1 while placing traps on high ground1 do not pay so much attention to dens and paths1 for these animals spend much time in trees looking for squirrels1 birds1 etc41 but go through the forest spotting a line and locate a deadfall in likely ground about every #bjj yards1 or about #h to the mile4 ,,chapter ,,xxv4 ,,skinning ,,and ,,stretching4 ,much importance should be attached to the skinning and stretching of all kinds of skins so as to command the highest commercial value4 ,the fisher1 otter1 foxes1 lynx1 marten1 mink1 ermine1 civet1 cats and skunk should be cased1 that is1 taken off whole4 ,commence with the knife in the center of one hind foot and slit up the inside of the leg1 up to and around the vent and down the other leg in a like manner4 ,cut around the vent1 taking care not to cut the lumps or glands in which the musk of certain animals is secreted1 then strip the skin from the bone of the tail with the aid of a split stick gripped firmly in the hand while the thumb of the other hand presses against the animals back just above4 ,make no other slits in the skin except in the case of the skunk and otter1 whose tails require to be split1 spread1 and tacked on a board4 ,turn the skin back over the body1 leaving the pelt side out and the fur side inward1 and by cutting a few ligaments1 it will peel off very readily4 ,care should be taken to cut closely around the nose1 ears and lips1 so as not to tear the skin4 ,have a board made about the size and shape of the three-board stretcher1 only not split in halves4 ,this board is to put the skin over in order to hold it better while removing particles of fat and flesh which adheres to it while skinning1 which can be done with a blunt-edged knife1 by scraping the skin from the tail down toward the nose--the direction in which the hair roots grow--never scrape up the other way or you will injure the fiber of the skin1 and care should be taken not to scrape too hard1 for if the skin fiber is injured its value is decreased4 ,illustration3 ,,single ,,and ,,three ,,board ,,stretcher4 ,now1 having been thoroughly fleshed1 as the above process is called1 the skin is ready for stretching1 which is done by inserting the two halves of the three-board stretcher and drawing the skin over the boards to its fullest extent1 with the back on one side and the belly on the other1 and tacking it fast by driving in a small nail an inch or so from each side of the tail near the edges of the skin2 also1 in like manner the other side4 ,now insert the wedge and drive it between the halves almost its entire length4 ,care should be taken1 however1 to not stretch the skin so much as to make the fur appear thin and thus injure its value4 ,now put a nail in the root of the tail and fasten it to the wedge2 also1 draw up all slack parts and fasten4 ,care should be taken to have both sides of the skin of equal length1 which can be done by lapping the leg flippers over each other4 ,now draw up the under lip and fasten1 and pull the nose down until it meets the lip and tack it fast1 and then the skin is ready to hang away to cure4 ,do not dry skins at a fire or in the sun1 or in smoke4 ,it often burns them when they will not dress and are of no value4 ,dry in a well-covered shed or tent where there is a free circulation of air1 and never use any preparation1 such as alum and salt1 as it only injures them for market4 ,never stretch the noses out long1 as some trappers are inclined to do1 but treat them as above described1 and they will command better values4 ,fur buyers are inclined to class long-nosed skins as southern and pay a small price for them1 as ,southern skins are much lighter in fur than those of the ,north4 ,the badger1 beaver1 bear1 raccoon and wolf must always be skinned open2 that is1 ripped up the belly from vent to chin after the following manner3 ,cut across the hind legs as if to be cased and then rip up the belly4 ,the skin can then be removed by flaying as in skinning a beef4 99 99 99 ,another experienced trapper says3 ,the animals which should be skinned open are bear1 beaver1 raccoon1 badger1 timber wolf and wolverines4 ,the way to do this is to rip the skin open from the point of the lower jaw1 in a straight line1 to the vent4 ,then rip it open on the back of the hind legs1 and the inside of the front legs1 and peel the skin carefully off the body4 ,beaver1 however1 should not have the front legs split open and the tail1 having no fur1 is of course cut off4 ,if the skin is a fine one1 and especially in the case of bear1 the feet should not be cut off1 but should be skinned1 leaving the claws on4 ,i would also advise saving the skull1 and the proper way to clean it is to scrape the flesh off with a knife4 ,when the animal is skinned1 roll the skin up with the fur side out and put it in your pack4 ,see that there are no burrs or lumps of mud in the fur1 before you do any fleshing4 ,my way of fleshing furs--there may be better ways--is to draw the skin over a smooth board1 made for the purpose and scraping1 or peeling1 with a blunt edged knife4 ,commence at the tail1 and scrape towards the head1 otherwise you may injure the fibre of the hide4 ,over the back and shoulders of most animals is a thin layer of flesh4 ,this should be removed1 and when done1 there should be nothing remaining but the skin and fur4 ,raccoon and muskrat are easily fleshed by pinching the flesh between the edge of the knife and the thumb4 ,for stretching boards1 ,i prefer a three board stretcher1 but a plain board will answer4 ,for muskrats1 use a single board4 ,open skins are best stretched in frames or hoops1 but it is all right to stretch them on the wall on the inside of a building4 ,the boards shown in the cut are1 to my notion1 the proper shapes1 and ,i would advise making a good supply of them before the season commences4 ,illustration3 ,,some ,,stretching ,,patterns4 ,to use these three board stretchers1 insert the two halves of the board in the skin1 draw the skin down and fasten the hind legs1 with tacks1 to the edges of the boards4 ,this stretches the hide long4 ,then insert the wedge between the two boards1 which will stretch the skin out to its fullest extent1 and give it the proper shape4 ,finish by fastening with tacks1 pulling the nose over the point of the board1 and drawing the skin of the lower jaw up against the nose4 ,hang the furs in a cool1 dry place and as soon as they are dry1 remove them from the boards4 ,fox skins should be turned with the fur side out1 after removing from the board4 ,in using the hoop stretcher1 the hide is laced inside the hoop1 with twine1 the skin of the coon being stretched square and the beaver round4 ,all other furs should be stretched so as not to draw them out of their natural shape4 ,if the weather is warm and the furs are likely to taint1 salt them4 ,a salted skin is better than a tainted one4 ,put salt in the tail1 and punch a hole in the end of the tail1 with a pointed wire1 to let the water drain out1 or split the tail up about one-half inch from tip4 ,the skin of the bear is1 perhaps1 more likely to spoil than any other1 and the ears especially1 are likely to taint and slip the fur4 ,to prevent this1 slit the ears open on the inside1 skin then back almost to the edge and fill them with salt1 also salt the base of the ears1 on the flesh side of the hide4 99 99 99 ,illustration3 ,,dakota ,,trappers' ,,method4 ,in stretching1 says a ,north ,dakota trapper1 we use a one board stretcher as follows3 ,put on the fur after you have fleshed it1 the four feet on one side and the tail on the other4 ,tack down the hind feet and the tail1 then take a piece of board about #a x #a_/d inches 7this would be about the correct size for a mink7 rounded off except on one side4 ,put it below the fur on the side where the feet are1 tie the front feet4 ,when you are going to take off the fur1 pull out the small board and the fur will come off easy4 ,illustration3 ,,holder ,,for ,,skinning4 ,a contrivance which ,i have found useful in skinning is made of a piece of stiff wire #ah inches long4 ,bend this at the middle until it has the shape of ,v with the ends about #h inches apart4 ,bend up an inch at each end to form a hook and when skinning1 after cutting around the hind feet1 hook into the large tendons1 hang on a nail or over limb1 etc41 and go ahead with both hands4 ,the wire must be nearly as large as a slate pencil and will work all right from foxes down to mink4 ,trappers will find this a great help in skinning animals after they have become cold4 ,young trappers should use this simple device as they will be less liable to cut holes in the skin4 ,it pays to be careful in skinning animals properly as well as to stretch them correctly1 for both add to their market value4 ,how many trappers save the skulls of their larger game8 ,all the skulls of bear1 puma or mountain lion1 wolves1 foxes and sometimes those of lynx and wild cat are of ready sale if they contain good sets of teeth4 ,several parties buy these skulls for cash4 ,to prepare them the bulk of the flesh should be removed and the brain and eyes also4 ,probably the easiest way to accomplish this is to boil the skull with flesh on in an old pot until the meat begins to get tender4 ,then1 while hot1 it may easily be cut away1 and by enlarging the hole at the back of the skull the brain may be scooped out4 ,they should be watched carefully as if boiled too long the teeth drop out1 bones separate and render the skull worthless4 ,it is safe1 but more tedious to clean them with a sharp knife without boiling4 ,the dealers pay from #ej cents for a bear skull to #ae cents for a fox1 tho taxidermists and furriers often pay much more4 ,the ,british ,columbia ,government pays bounties upon the skulls1 only ,i think this is a good idea as the skins are not mutilated and depreciated by scalping1 punching or cutting as usual4 ,save a few good skulls and add dollars to the value of your catch4 99 99 99 ,take two pieces of ,no4 #i fence wire about #cj inches long1 writes an ,ohio coon hunter and trapper1 file one end sharp1 then commence at each hind foot and punch the wire thru close to the edge as in sewing1 taking stitches an inch or so long until you get to the front foot1 then pull the hide along the wire just far enough so the top and bottom will stretch out to make it square1 or a few inches longer than the width is better4 ,illustration3 ,,wire ,,coon ,,method4 ,put #c or #d nails in each side1 then commence at the top and tack all but the head1 then pull the bottom down even with the sides1 not tacking the head1 which lets it draw down into the hide1 then tack the head4 ,this is an easy and good way to handle coon skins making them nearly square when stretched4 ,many inexperienced trappers stretch coon skins too long and draw out the head and neck4 ,this can be avoided by following instructions given here4 ,coon can be cased but most dealers prefer to have them stretched open4 99 99 99 ,get a lot of steel wire1 says a ,missouri trapper who uses old umbrella wires1 the round solid ones4 ,sharpen one end1 take your coon skin and run one wire up each side and one across each end4 ,in putting these wires in do it like the old woman knits1 that is1 wrap the hide around the wire and stick it thru about every inch4 ,now cut six small twigs1 make them the proper length and notch the ends1 and you will soon have your hide stretched expert trapper style4 ,illustration3 ,,wire ,,and ,,twig ,,coon ,,method4 ,the advantage of this is you can carry stretchers enough for twenty-five skins in one hand and don't have to hunt up a barn door and box of tacks and hammer every time you want to stretch one4 ,you can stretch in one-fourth the time it would take to tack up on a board1 and you will have it in first class style the first time and not have to pull out a tack here and stretch a little more there4 99 99 99 ,i have always used the whole board 7not split into two pieces and wedged shape piece as some do71 writes a ,massachusetts trapper1 and made as follows3 ,for mink ,i use a #c_/h inch board about #dj inches in length1 #d inches wide at the large end1 tapering to about #b #a_/b inches at the small end with the edges planed down from near the middle of the board to the edge1 leaving a thin edge and sandpapered down smooth4 ,i make the board of this length for the reason that it sometimes happens that a mink may have laid in a trap for several days before being taken out1 and if under water it is not always easy to determine the exact length of time it has been in the trap1 and there may be a possibility that if put on the board to dry that having laid so long it will taint before it will get thoroughly dry4 ,i have seen them in a case of this kind where several and perhaps nearly all the hairs on the end of the tail would shed or pull out thereby damaging the skin to a greater or less extent4 ,now when ,i get a mink in this condition after pulling on the board and tacking all around1 ,i split the tail open after which ,i lay it open and tack all around the same way you would with an otter skin4 ,by employing this means you will often save the loss of the tail by thus tainting and a corresponding loss on the value of the skin4 ,the value of the mink skin is in no way damaged by this process4 ,some dealers prefer to have all the skins they buy cured in this manner4 ,for stretching the muskrat skin ,i also use a board of the same thickness as for mink1 about #bj inches in length1 #f #a_/b or #g inches at the large end with a slightly rounding taper to a width of about #c inches at small end1 the sides planed down to a thin edge the same as for the mink boards2 in fact1 ,i prefer the same manner of stretching all cased skins1 using care not to have the boards so wide as to stretch the skins to a width much exceeding the natural width before it was placed over the board1 but giving them all the strain they will stand with reason1 lengthwise4 ,if stretched too wide it tends to make the fur thinner and lessens the value of it4 ,i usually pull the skins1 especially muskrats1 onto the boards far enough so that the smaller end will extend through the mouth of the skin for perhaps #a_/b inch1 and when the skins are sufficiently dry to remove1 all that is required is to take hold of them with a hand on either edge of the skin and give it a sharp tap on the small end1 when the skin will come off at once4 ,by stretching the skins on the boards with the back on one side1 belly on the opposite side1 they come off the boards looking smooth and uniform in width1 and command a great deal better price than if thrown on in a haphazard way on a shingle or an inch board badly shaped1 as a great many beginners do4 ,i have seen some shameful work done in this respect4 ,it is always necessary to remove all surplus grease and fat which can readily be done immediately after the skin is stretched1 otherwise they will heat1 sweat and mold to a certain extent after they are removed from the boards1 which injures both the appearance and sale of them4 ,it is well to look after all these little details4 ,these descriptions are given with the desire to help some of the beginners4 ,if they will start in by using a little care in stretching and having pride in their work they will find the business both more pleasant and profitable4 99 99 99 ,if convenient when going into camp1 writes an old successful trapper who has pursued the fur bearers in many states1 you should take several stretching boards for your different kinds of fur with you4 ,if not1 you can generally find a tree that will split good and you can split some out4 ,it is usually hard to find widths that are long and straight enough to bend so as to form a good shaped stretcher4 ,you should always aim to stretch and cure furs you catch in the best manner4 ,in skinning you should rip the animal straight from one heel across to the other and close to the roots of the tail on the under side4 ,work the skin loose around the bone at the base until you can grasp the bone of the tail with the first two fingers of the right hand while you place the bone between the first two fingers of the left hand4 ,then1 by pulling you will draw the entire bone from the tail which you should always do4 ,sometimes when the animal has been dead for some time the bone will not readily draw from the tail4 ,in this case cut a stick the size of your finger about eight inches long4 ,cut it away in the center until it will readily bend so that the two ends will come together4 ,then cut a notch in each part of stick just large enough to let the bone of the tail in and squeeze it out4 ,it is necessary to whittle one side of the stick at the notch so as to form a square shoulder4 ,you should have about three sizes of stretching boards for mink and fox4 ,for mink they should be from #d #a_/b inches down to #c inches and for fox from #f #a_/d inches down to #e inches wide1 and in length the fox boards may be four feet long1 and the mink boards three feet long4 ,the boards should taper slightly down to within #h inches of the end for fox1 and then rounded up to a round point4 ,the mink boards should be rounded at #d or #e inches from this point4 ,you will vary the shape of the board in proportion to the width4 ,stretching boards should not be more than #c_/h inch thick4 ,a belly strip the length or nearly the length of the boards #a #a_/d inches at the wide end1 tapering to a point at the other end and about #a_/d to #c_/h inch thick4 ,have the boards smooth and even on the edges4 ,other stretching boards should be made in proportion to the size and shape of the animal whose skin is to be stretched4 ,you should not fail to remove all the fat and flesh from the skin immediately after the skin is on the board4 ,if a skin is wet when taken from the animal it should be drawn lightly on a board until the fur is quite dry4 ,then turn the skin flesh side out and stretch4 99 99 99 ,beginning at the left1 dimensions and skins stretched on the various boards are given3 ,no4 #a4 ,mink board1 length #bh inches and #d wide4 ,no4 #b4 ,mink board1 length #bh inches and #c #a_/b wide4 ,no4 #c4 ,weasel board length #bj inches and #b #a_/b wide4 ,no4 #d4 ,muskrat board1 length #ba inches and #f inches wide4 ,no4 #e4 ,opossum board1 7small71 length #bj inches and #f #a_/b inches wide4 ,no4 #f4 ,skunk or opossum1 7medium71 length #bh inches and #g inches wide4 ,no4 #g4 ,skunk and opossum1 7large71 length #bh inches and #h inches wide4 ,illustration3 ,,size ,,of ,,stretching ,,boards4 ,old and experienced hunters and trappers know about the shape and size to make the various stretching boards for the fur bearers1 but for the guidance of beginners and those who are careless about stretching pelts1 the above description is especially meant4 ,trappers in ,southern sections will no doubt find the boards as described here too large for most of their skunk4 ,in the ,northeast the mink boards will also be too large1 but for this section 7,ohio71 they are about correct4 ,the general shape of the boards can be seen from the illustration4 99 99 99 ,one of the best ways1 writes a ,minnesota trapper1 to take off the skin of an animal is by cutting the skin around the hind legs or feet1 and then slitting the skin down inside the hind legs to the body joining the two slits between the hind legs1 then remove the skin on the tail by pushing up the thumb nail1 or a thin flat piece of wood against the bone of the tail and draw off the skin4 ,now commence to draw the body of the animal through the slit already made without enlarging it1 drawing the skin over itself1 the fur side within4 ,when the forefeet are reached1 cut the skin away from them at the wrists1 and then skin over the head until the mouth is reached when the skin should be finally removed at the lips4 ,one thing to be borne in mind when stretching a skin to dry1 is that it must be drawn tight2 another1 that it must be stretched in a place where neither the heat of a fire or that of the sun will reach it too strongly1 and it should not be washed4 ,large skins may be nailed on a wall of a shed or barn4 ,the board stretcher should be made of some thin material4 ,prepare a board of bass wood or some other light material1 two feet three inches long1 three inches and a half wide at one end1 and two inches and an eighth at the other1 and three-eighths of an inch thick4 ,chamfer it from the center to the sides almost to an edge4 ,round and chamfer the small end about an inch upon the sides4 ,split the board through the center with a knife or saw1 finally prepare a wedge of the same length and thickness1 one inch wide at the large end1 and taper to a blunt point4 ,this is a stretcher suitable for a mink1 or a marten4 ,two large sizes with similar proportions are required for the large animals1 the largest size suitable for the full grown otter and wolf1 should be five feet and a half long1 seven inches wide at the large end when fully spread by the wedge1 and six inches at the small end4 ,an intermediate size is required for the fisher1 raccoon1 fox and some other animals1 the proportions of which can be easily figured out4 ,these stretchers require that the skin of the animal should not be ripped through the belly1 but should be stripped off whole4 ,peel the skin from the body by drawing it over itself1 leaving the fur inward4 ,in this condition the skin should be drawn on to the split board 7with the back on one side and the belly on the other71 to its utmost length1 and fastened with tacks1 and then the wedge should be driven between the two halves4 ,finally1 make all fast by a tack at the root of the tail1 and another on the opposite side4 ,the skin is then stretched to its utmost capacity and it may be hung away to dry4 99 99 99 ,not alone the skulls of the larger animals1 but the skulls of any game1 the skeleton of any bird1 or fish1 has a ready market1 provided such specimens are properly cleaned1 and in perfect condition4 ,however1 the hunter or trapper must bear in mind the fact that it is the perfect specimen that is in demand1 and that a bruise on the bone literally spoils it for the curator4 ,if you will look carefully at any skull1 you will notice that some of the bones are very thin and frail1 almost like a spider web4 ,these fine bones must be preserved if they are to be of any value to the ,comparative ,anatomist1 and boiling or scraping simply ruins them4 ,so much for the explanation4 ,now the method of cleaning1 is by rotting rather than scraping or boiling4 ,take the skull 7or whole head7 and fix it solid in some can or jar1 then fill it1 or cover with water and put away for three or four weeks4 ,at the end of that time1 pour off the water and the bulk of the flesh will go too4 ,fill in with clear water again1 and repeat as often as necessary4 ,i have found that twice will do the work1 and leave the bone in good condition4 ,there is a market for most animal skulls1 if not damaged1 and it may pay to preserve all4 ,in the ,hunter-,trader-,trapper1 published at ,columbus1 ,ohio1 usually will be found advertisements of parties who buy them4 99 99 99 ,i have never had much luck with two-piece stretchers1 but use thin board stretchers in one piece with a sword stick on each side to fully stretch and admit the air to both sides of the skin4 ,this cures the skin faster and better than when only one side is exposed to the air1 says a ,maryland trapper4 ,illustration3 ,,pole ,,stretchers4 ,when off from home1 ,i use stretchers made from saplings1 as boards suitable are not to be had everywhere1 and cannot be bothered with when going light4 ,to make these1 cut osier1 willow or hickory switches1 straight and thick as the finger1 about four feet long2 cut two short pieces for rats #d and #f inches long and carefully bending the long piece4 ,nail these in with a small wire nail at each end4 ,a handful of shingle or lath nails and a clump of osier sprouts will make a full outfit of stretchers for a temporary camp4 99 99 99 ,i know it is as much value in stretching your furs and preparing them for market as it is in trapping1 writes a trapper4 ,if you have no boards1 go to your grocer or dry goods store and you can get all the boxes you want for #e or #aj cents apiece4 ,they must not be over #c_/h of an inch thick2 if they are1 plane them down smooth on both sides4 ,i make what ,i call the two piece stretcher with a wedge for muskrats4 ,take a board #bj inches long1 #c_/h inch thick1 #f inches wide large end1 #b #a_/b inches small end4 ,taper back #e inches from small end4 ,now take block plane and chaffer off each side an inch or more up and round it off4 ,round and chaffer small end the same1 almost to an edge4 ,now draw a line thru the center of the board and saw it thru4 ,make a wedge the same length and thickness1 #c_/h of an inch wide and tapering down to #a_/aj of an inch4 ,if a large skin1 push it in between the halves4 ,bore a hole in large end and hang up in a cool ventilated place to dry4 ,after three days pull out wedge1 and your fur will slip right off without tearing4 ,if the boards should warp over1 tack a strip across the large end4 ,the mink stretchers are made on the same plan4 ,a board the same thickness1 #cj inches long1 #c #a_/b inches wide1 taper down #b #a_/h small end round chaffer4 ,for large mink insert wedge made one inch wide4 ,taper down to #b_/h4 ,for skunk and coon they are also good1 only they are made on a larger scale4 ,now a word about casing4 ,pull your hide on so the back is on one side and the belly on the other4 ,pull nose over small end #a_/b inch4 ,put two tacks on each side1 now pull down tight to large end and put two tacks each side1 lay board on bench and take an old case knife1 scrape off all meat and fat and be careful not to scrape too thin1 so as not to cut the fibre of the skin4 ,after you have scraped the flesh off1 insert the wedge and your skin will be tight4 ,do not stretch your hide so it will make your fur look thin4 99 99 99 ,this is my way of stretching coon hide2 use four-penny nails and use either the inside or outside of some old building1 inside is the best4 ,drive the first nail thru nose4 ,this holds the hide for starting4 ,pull each forward leg up 7not out7 on a level with nose and about seven or eight inches from nose according to size of the coon4 ,drive next nail at root of tail1 and pull down1 moderately tight4 ,now pull each hind leg out about one inch wider than the fore legs and a little below the tail nail4 ,now use a nail every inch and pull the hide up between the forward legs and nose1 until it comes straight across4 ,next1 treat the bottom of the hide the same as the top4 ,use plenty of nails4 ,to finish down the sides1 drive a nail first on one side and then on the other until finished4 ,you will find when done that the hide is nearly square with no legs sticking out the sides and no notches in the skin4 ,,chapter ,,xxvi4 ,,handling ,,and ,,grading4 ,,mink should be cased fur side in and stretched on boards for several days or until dry4 ,,skunk should be cased fur side in and stretched on boards for several days4 ,the white stripe cut out1 blackened1 etc41 reduces the value4 ,,raccoon should be stretched open 7ripped up the belly7 and nailed on boards or the inside of a building4 ,some dealers allow as much for coon cased1 from any section1 while others prefer that only ,southern coon be cased4 ,,foxes of the various kinds should be cased and put on boards fur side in for a few days1 or until dry4 ,as the pelt is thin they soon dry1 when they must be taken off and should be turned fur side out4 ,in shipping see that they are not packed against furs flesh side out4 ,,lynx should be cased and after drying properly are turned fur side out1 same as foxes4 ,,otter are cased and stretched fur side in4 ,the pelt being thick and heavy1 takes several days to dry properly4 ,they are shipped flesh side out4 ,sea otter are handled the same as fox1 lynx and marten1 that is1 fur side out4 ,,beaver are split but stretched round and should be left in the hoop or stretcher for several days4 ,,bear should be handled open and stretched carefully4 ,in skinning be careful and leave nose1 claws and ears on the hide4 ,,wolves can be handled same as bear1 also wolverine4 ,,fisher should be cased and stretched flesh side out1 but may be sent to market same as foxes or fur out4 ,,marten should be stretched and dried on boards1 fur side in1 but turned as soon as dried4 ,,opossum are stretched on boards fur side in and are left in that condition after removing the boards4 ,cut the tails off when skinning--they have no value4 ,,muskrat should be stretched fur side in and a few days on the boards is sufficient4 ,they are left as taken off1 that is1 fur side in4 ,cut the tails off when skinning--they are worthless4 ,,weasel should be cased1 fur side in4 ,the pelts are thin and soon dry4 ,leave fur side in after taking off boards4 ,,badger are split and should be nailed to the inside of a building to dry4 ,,civet ,,cat should be cased and stretched on boards fur side in4 ,when dry remove boards and leave fur side in4 ,,ring ,,tail ,,cats should be cased and after removing boards are generally left fur side in for market4 ,,wild ,,cat are cased and stretched on boards4 ,they may be turned fur out or left as taken from the stretchers1 fur side in4 ,,house ,,cat are cased and stretched on boards fur side in4 ,they are sent to market usually fur side in4 ,,rabbits are cased fur in and1 as the pelt is thin1 soon dry4 ,they are shipped fur side in4 ,,panther are treated much the same as bear4 ,care should be taken in skinning to leave claws1 ears1 nose1 etc41 on the skin for mounting purposes4 99 99 99 ,my experience has been that the house which makes only four grades of prime goods is the house that you will receive the largest checks from for your collection1 writes a ,michigan collector of #ej years' experience4 ,so many grades quoted makes it possible for a firm to successfully squelch you a little every time you ship and yet you can have no reasonable excuse to complain for when you ship1 you know that in some houses there is a grade for nearly every skin you send4 ,so ,i1 for one1 would rather risk the fewer grades4 ,a trapper from ,wisconsin says3 ,for sample1 say mink are worth from #be cents to #c4jj4 ,there would be #bge prices between the extremes4 ,now if he is a fur buyer ,i certainly pity the trappers that would have to take those #bge different prices for their mink4 ,a man should be able to know the difference between grades ,no4 #a1 #b1 #c and #d1 and when he does he is then able to give a fair and honest price for every skin he buys4 ,if he doesn't know the difference then1 he had better get a job clerking in a hotel or sawing wood4 99 99 99 ,many have requested that the difference in the various grades of skins be explained and for their benefit1 as well as others of little experience1 the following may prove instructive4 ,raw furs are assorted into four grades1 viz3 ,no4 #a1 ,no4 #b1 ,no4 #c and ,no4 #d4 ,with the exception of skunk and muskrat most houses subdivide the ,no4 #a skins into large1 medium and small4 ,in addition to this many firms quote a range of prices about as follows3 ,mink1 ,northern ,new ,york1 large #f4jj to #h4jj4 ,would it not be more satisfactory to quote one price only8 ,it is generally known that ,minnesota mink are large4 ,from that state a ,no4 #a medium mink is as large as a ,no4 #a large from ,maine1 where mink are rather small4 ,but as the dealers on their price lists quote the various states and sections1 why not quote one price only as follows3 ,,mink1 ,,northern ,,new ,,york1 ,,no4 #a4 ,large1 ,medium1 ,small1 ,no4 #b1 ,no4 #c1 ,no4 #d1 #g4jj4 #e4jj4 #c4jj #a4ej4 #j4ge4 #j4bj ,these figures1 of course1 are only given for illustration and are not meant to show value4 ,furs from the various parts of ,north ,america have their peculiar characteristics and it is easy for the man of experience to tell in what part of the country a pelt was caught4 ,it may be shipped by a collector hundreds of miles from where caught1 but if there are many in the collection the expert will soon detect it4 ,this knowledge1 however1 only comes with years of experience4 ,prime skins are those caught during cold weather and the pelt after drying a few days is bright and healthy appearing4 ,unprime skins are those that turn blue or black after being stretched for a time4 ,usually the darker the pelt the poorer the fur4 ,if only slightly blued the pelt may go back only one grade1 while if black it is apt to be no better than ,no4 #c or ,no4 #d and may be trash of no value4 ,springy skins1 as the name indicates1 are those taken toward the last of the season or in the spring and tho often prime pelted1 have begun to shed4 ,the beginner is often deceived1 for he thinks if the pelt is prime1 the fur is4 ,foxes and other animals are often rubbed toward spring1 which of course lessens their value4 ,a ,no4 #a skin must be not only average in size but free from cuts1 etc4 ,no unprime skin will grade better than ,no4 #b4 ,skunk1 to be ,no4 #a or black1 must be prime in pelt1 fair size and stripe not extending beyond the shoulders4 ,the day that only star black were taken for ,no4 #a is passed1 for most trappers and shippers know better now4 ,a ,no4 #b1 or short striped skunk1 is prime and the stripes1 if narrow1 may extend nearly to the tail4 ,a small ,no4 #a or a blued ,no4 #a is graded ,no4 #b4 ,a ,no4 #c or long stripe has two stripes extending the entire length1 but there must be as much black between the stripes as either of the white stripes4 ,in some of the states1 such as ,minnesota1 ,iowa1 the ,dakotas1 etc41 skunk are large and are nearly all striped the same--long narrow stripes--but owing to their size they are worth about the same as the eastern short stripe or ,no4 #b4 ,a ,no4 #d1 broad or white skunk1 is prime but has two broad stripes extending down the back4 ,most dealers class skunk as ,no4 #d if either white stripe contains more white than there is black between the two stripes4 ,all unprime skunk are graded down to ,no4 #b1 #c and #d according to depth of fur and stripe4 ,a ,no4 #a skunk in stripe1 but blue1 becomes a ,no4 #b1 or if badly blued ,no4 #c or #d2 a ,no4 #b skunk in stripe but blue becomes a ,no4 #c2 a ,no4 #c in stripe but blue1 a ,no4 #d2 a ,no4 #d in stripe but blue generally goes into trash4 ,in fact1 if badly blued1 any of the grades may be thrown to trash4 ,muskrat are assorted into four grades--spring1 winter1 fall and kitts4 ,spring rats are known as ,no4 #a2 winter1 ,no4 #b2 fall1 ,no4 #c2 ,kitts1 ,no4 #d4 ,no4 #a or spring rats are those taken in ,march and ,april4 ,the pelt is then of a reddish color and is entirely free from dark spots4 ,a few spring rats may be caught earlier than ,march1 but so long as they show dark spots they are not ,no4 #a4 ,no4 #b1 or winter rats1 are pretty well furred1 but there are dark streaks and spots in the hide usually on the back4 ,no4 #c or fall are not full furred and the pelt is far from prime4 ,the dark streaks show much more than later in the season4 ,no4 #d1 or kitts1 are only partly grown or if larger are badly damaged4 ,opossum is the only animal that may have a prime pelt but an unprime coat of fur4 ,this makes opossum rather difficult to assort unless turned fur side out4 ,if opossum have been properly skinned and stretched they will1 when unprime1 show a dark blue spot on the under side at the throat4 ,the plainer this spot the poorer the fur4 ,good unprime skins are ,no4 #b2 poor unprime skins1 ,no4 #c2 the very poor and stagey1 no fur1 are ,no4 #d1 generally known as trash and of no value4 ,the other fur-bearers1 such as mink1 otter1 beaver1 fox1 wolves1 lynx1 wild cat1 fisher1 raccoon1 bear1 badger1 civet cat1 weasel1 etc41 are graded much the same that is1 all skins to be ,no4 #a must be caught in season1 when the fur is prime1 at which time the pelt is healthy appearing--never blue or black--must be of average size1 correctly skinned1 handled and free of cuts or shot holes4 ,skins may be unprime from several causes1 viz3 caught too early1 improperly handled1 under size1 etc4 ,unprime skins are graded ,no4 #b1 #c and #d according to how inferior they are4 ,the fairly well furred unprime skins are graded ,no4 #b2 the low furred unprime skins are thrown to ,no4 #c2 the poorly furred are thrown to ,no4 #d1 while low stagey skins go to trash4 ,some skins altho prime are so small that they grade ,no4 #c4 ,this1 however1 is the exception rather than the rule4 ,usually if prime1 the under size will only put the skin down one grade4 99 99 99 ,i have bought some for a number of years1 writes a collector1 and know that some trappers are like some farmers1 they want as much money for a bushel of dirty wheat as their neighbor gets for a bushel of clean wheat4 ,i have had skunk and opossum hides offered me that had a pound or two of tainted fat on them1 and skins that were taken out of season1 for which they expect to get ,no4 #a prices4 ,there are some who stretch their skins in the shape of an oblong triangle and leave flesh enough on to make their dinner4 ,stretch your hides as near the shape of the animal as possible2 don't try to make a muskrat hide as long as a mink1 or a mink as wide as a muskrat4 ,catch in season1 flesh carefully1 stretch in good shape1 always take bone out of tails1 keep in an airy building until dry and then you will not have to grumble so much at the buyer in regard to prices4 ,,chapter ,,xxvii4 ,,from ,,animal ,,to ,,market4 ,under this title1 says an experienced ,western trapper1 ,i shall endeavor to show my brother trappers how to handle pelts3 ,as soon as ,i get in from my traps 7,i use a team and wagon71 ,i feed team1 dogs and self1 then ,i proceed to skin the game in the usual manner2 when game is all skinned ,i put on my fleshing suit1 made of rubber cloth like that buggy curtains are made of1 get out my fleshing boards1 of which ,i have three sizes--large1 medium and small--for each kind of cased skins except rat1 which ,i flesh with thumb and knife4 ,the fleshing boards are like ,fig4 #a on enclosed diagram1 made of #a inch pine free from knots and dressed on both sides1 #c feet #f inches long1 and for skunk #c_/d in4 and #aj in4 wide1 tapered up to a blunt point1 edges rounded and sandpapered smooth4 ,these boards can be made of other sizes so as to fit larger or smaller pelts of other kinds4 ,illustration3 ,,fleshing ,,board4 ,for a flesher ,i have tried nearly everything imaginable1 dull knives1 hardwood scrapers1 etc41 but have abandoned them all for the hatchet4 ,i use an old lath hatchet head and use it tolerably sharp2 ,i proceed as follows3 ,put pelt on board but do not fasten1 grip lower edge with left hand1 pull down hard1 place point of board against breast and use hatchet with right1 pushing down and holding hatchet nearly flat2 use plenty of elbow grease2 as fast as you get a strip cleaned off turn hide a little but do not flesh on edge of board4 ,it may not work good at first and you may cut one or two hides1 but you will soon get the knack4 ,illustration3 ,,stretching ,,frame4 ,if possible take a bitch skunk for the first as they flesh easier1 and be sure there are no burrs or chunks of mud in the fur1 or you will cut a hole the size of the burr4 ,now for the stretchers4 ,in ,fig4 #b is what ,i use2 it is something of my own invention1 and there is no patent on it4 ,it is made of any wood that will split straight1 and the dimensions are as follows3 ,pieces are #d ft4 long by #a #c_/h in4 dressed smooth2 pieces are #a #a_/b ,x #c_/h in42 will say for large skunks here they would be #aj in4 and #d #a_/b in4 ,to frame you must soak or steam the long pieces2 mitre the ends and fasten with #c;d finishing nails clinched4 ,then place in position #a in4 from ends and fasten with two #f;d finishing nails2 place in position and pull up to #h in4 from nose and fasten3 now chamfer off edges and sandpaper smooth4 ,i like this stretcher1 as it airs both sides of pelt and will dry them in half the time4 ,fig #c shows manner of fastening pelt2 on belly side it can be drawn down and fastened to tail pieces with sack needle and twine2 it is made of two or more poles fastened in the shape of a hoop4 ,in shipping furs1 bale tight2 do not ship loose in sack2 place mink and rat inside of skunk and other fur1 and always place the toughest pelts on outside4 ,by bailing tight you will avoid crinkling and they will not look mussy and will bring from #e to #aj per cent more4 ,now1 brother trappers1 fleshing pelts1 as ,i understand it1 is not merely taking the fat off1 but in going deeper and taking the flesh clean from the pelt so that if skunk1 the stripe will show clear the full length and reducing the weight by half4 ,on ,february #bnd4 ,i shipped #ae skunk1 all large2 the lot only weighed #i pounds including sack4 ,illustration3 ,,skin ,,on ,,stretcher4 ,when stretching skunk and otter skins1 if the weather is warm1 split the tails1 open and tack flat4 ,split open half way all others that have fur tails4 ,open pelts can be stretched in hoops made of one or more poles an inch or so in diameter1 and sewed in with a sack needle and heavy twine4 ,in stretching do not get the pelt so wide that the fur looks thin1 or so long and narrow that it looks as if a horse had been hitched to each end4 ,keep the natural shape of the animal as much as possible1 dry in a cool1 airy place inside1 or on the north side of a building and away from fire4 ,baling--here is where the expert trapper shows his craft1 and in baling you will see him wipe off all surplus fat and dirt and place the heavy pelts on the outside of his pack4 ,the lighter furs1 such as mink1 marten1 cat1 etc41 will be placed inside of the skins that are heavier4 ,for instance3 ,from four to eight rats or mink1 inside of a fox or skunk4 ,he will place the head of one to the tail of another1 the tails folded in4 ,he now ties a cord tightly around each end1 placing them on a square of burlap1 and with sack needle and twine draws up the sides as tight as he can2 then he folds in the ends and sews up snug4 ,furs thus packed reach the market in good shape1 and not such as they would if crammed promiscuously into a sack4 ,illustration3 ,,wrap ,,with ,,wire ,,at ,,joints4 ,in conclusion1 boys1 let me suggest a maxim or two for your guidance3 ,prime caught and well handled furs always bring top prices4 ,take pride in your catch1 no matter how small4 ,while the heading of this chapter is ,from ,animal to ,market it is well when shipping to request the dealer to grade and send value4 ,if satisfactory1 write to send on check4 ,if not satisfactory1 have dealer return furs4 ,when shipping furs under these conditions see that no green skins are sent--only properly cured ones4 ,while some dealers offer to pay expressage both ways we hardly think this fair and if no deal is made the dealer should pay the expressage one way and the shipper the other4 ,the ,hunter-,trader-,trapper1 published at ,columbus1 ,ohio1 in the interests of hunters1 trappers and dealers in raw furs contains a great deal of information that will be of value along the line of shipping furs as well as trapping methods1 etc4 ,,chapter ,,xxviii4 ,,steel ,,traps4 ,this book would not be complete without at least a few pages devoted to steel traps4 ,while a few steel traps were in use prior to #ahej1 yet it has only been since that date that they have come into general use4 ,during recent years they have become cheaper and trappers in all parts of ,america are using them in greater numbers4 ,professional trappers in the ,north1 ,northwest and ,southwest often have out lines many miles long and use #bjj to #cej steel traps of the various sizes4 ,each of the three main sets--land1 water and snow are used in various ways and to describe all of these would require a book4 ,steel traps are made in various sizes from ,no4 #j to ,no4 #f1 to meet the requirements of trappers for the various animals4 ,the best traps manufactured are the ,newhouse made by the well-known trap manufacturers--,oneida ,community1 ,ltd41 ,oneida1 ,n4 ,y4 ,a brief description of these follows3 ,illustration3 ,newhouse ,no4 #j ,trap ,spread of ,jaws1 #c #a_/b inches4 ,this1 the smallest trap made1 is used mostly for catching the gopher1 a little animal which is very troublesome to western farmers1 and also rats and other vermin4 ,it has a sharp grip and will hold larger game1 but should not be overtaxed4 ,illustration3 ,newhouse ,no4 #a ,trap ,spread of ,jaws1 #d inches4 ,this ,trap is used for catching muskrats and other small animals1 and sold in greater numbers than any other size4 ,its use is well understood by professional trappers and it is the most serviceable size for catching skunks1 weasels1 rats and such other animals as visit poultry houses and barns4 ,illustration3 ,newhouse ,no4 #ha ,trap ,spread of ,jaws1 #d inches4 ,occasionally animals free themselves from traps by gnawing their legs off just below the trap jaws1 where the flesh is numb from pressure4 ,various forms of traps have been experimented with to obviate this difficulty4 ,the ,webbed ,jaws shown above have proved very successful in this respect4 ,noting the cross-section of the jaws1 as illustrated at the left1 it is plain the animal can only gnaw off its leg at a point quite a distance below the meeting edges4 ,the flesh above the point of amputation and below the jaws will swell and make it impossible to pull the leg stump out of the trap4 ,the ,no4 #ha ,trap corresponds in size with the regular ,no4 #a ,newhouse4 ,illustration3 ,newhouse ,no4 #ia ,trap ,spread of ,jaws--#ia1 #e #a_/d inches2 #ia #a_/b1 #f #a_/d inches4 ,the double jaws take an easy and firm grip so high up on the muskrat that he can not twist out4 ,a skunk cannot gnaw out either4 ,these traps are especially good for muskrat1 mink1 skunk and raccoon4 ,all parts of the ,no4 #ia except the jaws are the same size as the regular ,no4 #a ,newhouse1 while the #ia #a_/b corresponds to the regular ,no4 #a #a_/b4 ,illustration3 ,newhouse ,no4 #a #a_/b ,trap ,spread of ,jaws1 #d #g_/h inches4 ,this size is called the ,mink ,trap4 ,it is1 however1 suitable for catching the woodchuck1 skunk1 etc4 ,professional trappers often use it for catching foxes4 ,it is very convenient in form and is strong and reliable4 ,illustration3 ,newhouse ,no4 #b ,trap ,spread of ,jaws1 #d #g_/h inches4 ,the ,no4 #b ,trap is called the ,fox ,trap4 ,its spread of jaws is the same as the ,no4 #a #a_/b but having two springs it is1 of course1 much stronger4 ,illustration3 ,newhouse ,no4 #c ,trap ,spread of ,jaws1 #e #a_/b inches4 ,this1 the ,otter ,trap1 is very powerful4 ,it will hold almost any game smaller than a bear4 ,illustration3 ,newhouse ,no4 #d ,trap ,spread of ,jaws1 #f #a_/b inches4 ,this is the regular form of ,beaver ,trap4 ,it is longer than the ,no4 #c ,trap1 and has one inch greater spread of jaws4 ,it is a favorite with those who trap and hunt for a living in the ,northwest and ,canada4 ,it is also extensively used for trapping the smaller wolves and coyotes in the western stock raising regions4 ,illustration3 ,newhouse ,no4 #b #a_/b ,trap ,spread of ,jaws1 #f #a_/b inches4 ,in some localities the otter grows to an unusual size1 with great proportionate strength1 so that the manufacturers have been led to produce an especially large and strong pattern4 ,all the parts are heavier than the ,no4 #b #a_/b1 the spread of jaws greater and the spring stiffer4 ,illustration3 ,newhouse ,no4 #c #a_/b ,trap ,spread of ,jaws1 #e inches4 ,the above cut represents a ,single ,spring ,otter ,trap4 ,it is used more especially for catching otter on their slides4 ,for this purpose a thin1 raised plate of steel is adjusted to the pan so that when the trap is set the plate will be a trifle higher than the teeth on the jaws4 ,the spring is very powerful1 being the same as used on the ,no4 #d ,newhouse ,trap4 ,the raised plate can be readily detached if desired1 making the trap one of general utility4 ,illustration3 ,newhouse ,no4 #ba #a_/b ,trap ,single ,spring4 ,same as ,no4 #b #a_/b but without ,teeth or ,raised ,plate4 ,no4 #ca #a_/b ,,newhouse ,,trap4 ,single ,spring4 ,same as ,no4 #c #a_/b but without ,teeth or ,raised ,plate4 ,spread of ,jaws--,no4 #ba #a_/b1 #e #a_/d inches2 ,no4 #ca #a_/b1 #f #a_/b inches4 ,these ,traps are the largest smooth jaw1 single spring sizes that are made4 ,professional trappers will find these especially valuable when on a long trapping line1 as they are more compact and easier to secrete than the large double spring traps4 ,the springs are made extra heavy4 ,note4--,the #ba #a_/b is practically a single spring ,no4 #c and the #ca #a_/b a single spring ,no4 #d4 ,illustration3 ,newhouse ,no4 #ad ,trap ,spread of ,jaws1 #f #a_/b inches4 ,this ,trap is the same in size as the ,no4 #d ,beaver1 but has heavier and stiffer springs and offset jaws1 which allow the springs to raise higher when the animal's leg is in the trap1 and is furnished with teeth sufficiently close to prevent the animal from pulling its foot out4 ,illustration3 ,clutch ,detachable ,trap ,clutch ,detachable--,trap can be used with or without it4 ,spread of ,jaws1 ,no4 #bc1 #e #a_/b inches2 ,no4 #bd1 #f #a_/d inches4 ,the inventor of this attachment claims to have had wonderful success with it in taking beaver4 ,the trap should be set with the clutch end farthest from shore4 ,the beaver swims with his fore legs folded back against his body1 and when he feels his breast touch the bank he puts them down4 ,the position of the trap can be so calculated that he will put his fore legs in the trap1 when the clutch will seize him across the body and hold him securely4 ,illustration3 ,newhouse ,no4 #d #a_/b ,trap ,in response to a demand for a new model of the ,newhouse ,trap especially adapted to catching wolves1 the manufacturers have perfected a trap which is numbered #d #a_/b and is called the ,newhouse ,wolf ,trap4 ,this trap has eight inches spread of jaw1 with other parts in proportion1 and is provided with a pronged drag1 a heavy snap and an extra heavy steel swivel and chain1 five feet long1 warranted to hold #b1jjj pounds4 ,the trap complete with chain and drag weighs about nine pounds4 ,illustration3 ,newhouse ,no4 #ej ,trap ,spread of ,jaws1 #i inches4 ,this trap is intended for catching small sized bears4 ,in design it is exactly like the standard ,no4 #e ,bear ,trap1 only that the parts are all somewhat smaller4 ,weight1 #aa #a_/d pounds each4 ,illustration3 ,newhouse ,no4 #aej ,trap ,spread of ,jaws1 #i inches4 ,this trap is identical with ,no4 #e excepting that the jaws are offset1 making a space five-eighths inch between them4 ,this allows the springs to come up higher when the bear's foot is in the trap1 and thus secure a better grip4 ,also there is less chance of breaking the bones of the foot4 ,weight1 #aa #a_/d pounds each4 ,illustration3 ,newhouse ,no4 #e ,trap ,spread of ,jaws1 #aa #c_/d inches4 ,this trap weighs nineteen pounds4 ,it is used for taking the common black bear and is furnished with a very strong chain4 ,illustration3 ,newhouse ,no4 #ae ,trap ,spread of ,jaws1 #aa #c_/d inches4 ,to meet the views of certain hunters whose judgment is respected1 the manufacturers designed a style of jaw for the ,no4 #e trap1 making an offset of #c_/d of an inch1 so as to allow the springs to come up higher when the bear's leg is in the trap4 ,this gives the spring a better grip4 ,those wishing this style should specify ,no4 #ae4 ,illustration3 ,newhouse ,no4 #f ,trap ,spread of ,jaws1 #af inches4 ,weight1 complete1 #db pounds4 ,this is the strongest trap made4 ,we have never heard of anything getting out of it when once caught4 ,it is used to catch lions and tigers1 as well as the great ,grizzly ,bears of the ,rocky ,mountains4 ,illustration3 ,bear ,chain ,clevis and ,bolt ,this cut illustrates ,bear ,chain ,clevis and ,bolt1 intended as a substitute for the ring on the end of the trap chain1 when desired4 ,with this clevis a loop can be made around any small log or tree without the trouble of cutting to fit the ring4 ,the chain is made five feet long1 suitable for any clog1 and the prices of bear traps fitted with it are the same as with the regular short chain and ring4 ,illustration3 ,steel ,trap ,setting ,clamp ,every trapper knows how difficult it is to set a large trap alone in the woods1 especially in cold weather1 when the fingers are stiff1 and the difficulty is greatly increased when one has to work in a boat4 ,one of these clamps applied to each spring will by a few turns of the thumb-screws1 bend the springs to their places1 so that the pan may be adjusted without difficulty4 ,no4 #d ,clamp can be used on any trap smaller than ,no4 #d #a _/#b4 ,no4 #e and #f are strong clamps1 carefully made and especially adapted to setting the large traps ,nos4 #d #a_/b to #f4 ,they dispense with the inconvenient and dangerous use of levers4 ,with them one can easily set these powerful traps4 ,these clamps are also useful about camp for other purposes4 ,,end ,,of ,,deadfalls ,,and ,,snares