,transcrib]'s ,notes3 ,= ! text v]sion1 ! capitalization on ! title page 0 adju/$ to attempt to pres]ve relative importance ( ! text on ! page4 ,*apt] descriptions 9 ! ,table ( ,cont5ts 7 *ang$ f all caps to ,title ,case4 ,small caps else:]e 7 conv]t$ to all caps4 ,gesp]rt 7spac$ out lett]+71 us$ 9 v>i\s places 9 ! front matt]1 & = *apt] numb]s1 0 n reta9$4 ,words 9 italics are surr\nd$ by und]scores4 ,punctuation v>ies widely & 0 kept z pr9t$2 mo/ o!r inconsi/5cies 7 kept z pr9t$4 ,inconsi/5cies 9 spell+ reta9$1 along ) ! few corrections made1 are li/$ at ! end ( ?is text4 ,! orig9al plates d n h captions4 ,to make x easi] = ! read] to *eck ! text aga9/ ! description ( ! figures1 ! cont5ts ( ea* ,li/ ( ,illu/rations entry has be5 copi$ into ! illu/ration tag = ! correspond+ plate4 ,except = ! frontispiece 7,pl4 #a71 ! captions = ! plates h be5 mov$ f ! orig9al mid-p>agraph placem5t to betwe5 p>agraphs4 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #a4 ,figure #a4 ,head-dress ( ,lady ,ard5e4 #b4 ,a k9d ( hat4 #c4 ,/eeple head-dress4 #d1 #f4 ,head-dresses ( ,lady ,role/one4 #e4 ,he>t-%ap$ head-dresses4 #g1 #h4 ,head-dresses ( ! "t ( ,h5ry ,,viii4 #i1 #aa4 ,hats ( ! "t ( ,george ,,ii4 #aj4 ,ni?sdale hood4 #ab4 ,hat ( ! "t ( ,william ,,iii4 #ac1 #ad4 ,hats ( ! "t ( ,*>les ,i4 #ae1 #af1 #ag4 ,head-dresses ( #agih4 #ah4 ,head-dress ( #agjj4 #ai4 ,head-dress ( ! "t ( ,h5ry ,,vi4 #bj4 ,comb9ation ( figs4 #g1 #h4 #ba1 #bb4 ,hats = ladies 9 #aghf4 #bc4 ,/yle ( #aghe4 #bd1 #be1 #bf4 ,/yle ( #aghb4 ,,dress ,,z ,a ,,f9e ,,art4 ,,) ,,sugge/ions ,,on ,,*ildr5',s ,,dress4 ,by ,,mrs4 ,,m]rifield4 ,) an ,introduction on ,,head ,,dress4 ,by ,pr(4 ,fairholt4 ,,bo/on3 ,,john ,p4 ,,jewett ,,& ,,company4 ,,clevel&1 ,,ohio3 ,,jewett1 ,,proctor1 ,,& ,,wor?+ton4 #ahed4 ,ent]$1 accord+ to ,act ( ,congress1 9 ! ye> #ahec1 by ,,john ,p4 ,,jewett ,,co41 ,9 ! ,cl]k's ,(fice ( ! ,di/rict ,c\rt ( ! ,di/rict ( ,massa*usetts ,,press ,,( ,,geo4 ,c4 ,,r&1 ,,wood ,,cut ,,& ,,book ,,pr9t]1 ,,cornhill1 ,,bo/on4 ,,/]eotyp$ ,,at ,,! ,,bo/on ,,/]eotype ,,f\ndry4 ,,preface4 ,! fact t we d]ive our /yles ( dress f ! same s\rce z ! ,engli%1 & t ! "w ( ,mrs4 ,m]rifield has be5 circulat$ among ! =ty ?\s& subscrib]s ( ! ,london ,art ,j\rnal1 might p]haps be deem$ suffici5t apology = (f]+ x 9 its pres5t =m to ! ,am]ican public4 ,x has receiv$ ! unqualifi$ approbation ( ! be/ publications 9 ?is c\ntry2--entire *apt]s hav+ be5 copi$ into ! p]iodicals ( ! day2 ?is add$ to ! above1 & also to ! high /&+ ( ! au?or1 has induc$ ! publi%]s to (f] x to ! great read+ public ( ?is c\ntry4 ,! *apt] on ,head-dresses1 :i* comm5ces ! book1 is ( mu* int]e/ 9 itself1 & af=ds an explanation ( _m ( ! descriptions 9 ! body ( ! "w4 ,! clos+ *apt]1 on ,*ildr5's ,dress1 by ,mrs4 ,m]rifield1 w be deem$ ( m value by mo/ p]sons ?an ! co/ ( ! entire "w4 ,a few v]bal alt]ations only h be5 made 9 ! orig9al2--! good s5se ( e read] w enable him to und]/& ! local allusions1 & :]e !y belong to ,engl& alone1 to make ! application4 ,,cont5ts4 ,,page ,,*apt] ,i4 ,description ( ,head-,dresses1 #a ,,*apt] ,,ii4 ,dress1 z a ,f9e ,art1 #aj ,,*apt] ,,iii4 ,! ,head1 #ec ,,*apt] ,,iv4 ,! ,dress1 #fa ,,*apt] ,v4 ,! ,feet1 #gc ,,*apt] ,,vi4 ,rem>ks on ,p>ticul> ,co/umes1 #hd ,,*apt] ,,vii4 ,ornam5t--,economy1 #ie ,,*apt] ,,viii4 ,"s ,?\ghts on ,*ildr5's ,dress4--,by ,mrs4 ,m]rifield1 #aba ,,illu/rations4 ,,plate ,i4 ,figure #a4 ,head-dress ( ,lady ,ard5e4 #b4 ,a k9d ( hat4 #c4 ,/eeple head-dress4 #d1 #f4 ,head-dresses ( ,lady ,role/one4 #e4 ,he>t-%ap$ head-dresses4 #g1 #h4 ,head-dresses ( ! "t ( ,h5ry ,,viii4 #i1 #aa4 ,hats ( ! "t ( ,george ,,ii4 #aj4 ,ni?sdale hood4 #ab4 ,hat ( ! "t ( ,william ,,iii4 #ac1 #ad4 ,hats ( ! "t ( ,*>les ,i4 #ae1 #af1 #ag4 ,head-dresses ( #agih4 #ah4 ,head-dress ( #agjj4 #ai4 ,head-dress ( ! "t ( ,h5ry ,,vi4 #bj4 ,comb9ation ( figs4 #g1 #h4 #ba1 #bb4 ,hats = ladies 9 #aghf4 #bc4 ,/yle ( #aghe4 #bd1 #be1 #bf4 ,/yle ( #aghb4 ,,plate ,,ii4 ,figure #bg4 ,/yle ( #aghb4 #bh1 #cj4 ,head-dress ( #agij4 #bi4 ,head-dress ( ! ,fr5* peasantry4 #ca4 ,fa%ion ( #agia4 #cb1 #cc4 ,fa%ion ( #aghi4 #cf4 ,head-dress ( ! comm5cem5t ( ! pres5t c5tury4 #ce4 ,engli% h\semaid4 #cg4 ,gigot sleeves1 ) cloak worn ov]4 #ch4 ,f a picture 9 ! ,l\vre4 ,,plate ,,iii4 ,figure #ci4 ,dress1 ) %ort wai/ & sleeves4 #da4 ,dress ( ! "m ( ,h5ry ,,iv4 #dj4 ,dress ( ,h5rietta ,m>ia4 #db4 ,f ! ,illu/rat$ ,london ,news4 ,,plate ,,iv4 ,figures #dc1 #dd4 ,f ! plates ( ,somma]+1 %[s ! wai/ ( ! ,v5us ( antiquity4 #de1 #df4 ,! wai/ ( a mod]n lady1 f ! above4 #di4 ,f ! ,london ,news4 #ej4 ,woman ( ,mityl5e4 #ec4 ,alg]9e woman4 #ed4 ,! ar*on's wife4 ,,plate ,v4 ,figure #dg4 ,a!nian peasant4 #dh4 ,%eph]dess ( ,arcadia4 #ea4 ,a!nian woman4 #eb4 ,fr5* co/ume ( ! t5? c5tury4 #fb4 ,lady ( ! "t ( ,h5ry ,v4 ,,plate ,,vi4 ,figure #ee4 ,aft] ,p>megiano4 #ef4 ,titian's daught]4 #eg4 ,lady ,h>r+ton4 #ei4 ,roman peasant4 #fa4 ,gigot sleeves4 ,,plate ,,vii4 ,figure #fc4 ,f ,bonn>d's ,co/umes4 #fd4 ,sancta ,victoria4 #fe4 ,anne1 ,c\ntess ( ,*e/]field1 f ,v&yck4 #fg4 ,woman ( ,m>k9itza4 ,,plate ,,viii4 ,figure #fj4 ,lady ,lucy ,p]cy1 f ,v&yck4 #fi1 #gj4 ,by ,jules ,david1 9 ,le ,moniteur de la ,mode4 #fh4 ,! hoop1 aft] ,hog>?4 ,,plate ,,ix4 ,figure #ff4 ,f ,rub5s's ,desc5t f ! ,cross4 #ga4 ,f a draw+ by ,ga9sbor\gh4 #gb4 ,woman ( ,myconia4 #gd4 ,que5 ,anne4 ,,plate ,x4 ,figure #gc4 ,*>lotte de la ,trem\ille4 #ge4 ,aft] ,ga9sbor\gh4 #gf4 ,aft] ,ga9sbor\gh4 #gg4 ,co/ume ( ,mrs4 ,bloom]4 ,,plate ,,xi4 ,figure #gh4 ,f ! embroid]y on fig4 #dg1 pl4 #e4 #gi4 ,f ! sleeve ( ! same dress1 above4 #hj4 ,f ! sleeve ( ! pelisse4 #ha4 ,! patt]n embroid]$ f ! wai/ to ! skirt ( ! dress1 fig4 #ea1 pl4 #e4 #hb4 ,! bord] ( ! %awl1 fig4 #ea4 #hc4 ,sleeve ( ! same1 figure #ea4 #hd4 ,design on ! apron1 fig4 #dh1 pl4 #e4 #he4 ,f ! bord] ( ! same dress1 fig4 #dh4 ,,plate ,,xii4 ,figure #hf4 ,patt]n r\nd ! hem ( ! long "u dress1 fig4 #ea1 pl4 #e4 #hg1 #hh4 ,bord]s ( %awls4 #hi4 ,infant's dress1 exhibit$ at ! ,_w's ,fair 9 ,london4 #ij1 #ia4 ,f ,le ,moniteur de la ,mode1 by ,jules ,david & ,reville1 publi%$ at ,p>is1 ,london1 ,new ,york1 & ,/4 ,pet]sburg4 ,,*apt] ,i4 ,,description ,,( ,,head-,,dresses4 ,fig4 #a is a front view ( a head-dress ( ,lady ,ard]ne1 7:o di$ ab\t ! middle ( ! fifte5? c5tury47 ,! caul ( ! head-dress is ri*ly embroid]$1 ! veil above be+ support$ by wires1 9 ! %ape ( a he>t1 ) d\ble lappets beh9d ! head1 :i* are sometimes transp>5t1 z if made ( gauze4 ,su* gauze veils1 or r cov]+s = ! head-dress1 are frequ5tly se5 9 ! m9iatures ( ,,mss4 ,figs4 #b1 #c1 are "h select$ f ! royal ,,ms4 ,9 ,fig4 #c1 ! /eeple head-dress ( ! lady is entirely cov]$ by a ?9 veil ( gauze1 :i* hangs f its summit1 & projects ov] h] face4 ,fig4 #b has a sort ( hat1 wid5+ f its base1 & made ( clo? ( gold1 ri*ly set ) /ones4 ,su* jewell$ head-dresses are repres5t$ on ! heads ( noble ladies1 & are frequ5tly ornam5t$ 9 ! mo/ beautiful mann]1 ) /ones ( v>i\s t9ts4 ,! slab to ! memory ( ,john ,role/one1 ,esq41 sometime ,"l ( ,sw>/on1 & ,sicili1 8 wife1 9 ,sw>k/one ,*ur*1 ,d]by%ire1 :o di$ 9 #adhb1 gives ! head-dress ( ! said ,sicili z repres5t$ 9 ,fig4 #f4 ,x is a simple cap1 radiat+ 9 gores ov] ! head1 hav+ a knob 9 its c5tre & a close fall+ veil ( clo? affix$ r\nd ! back4 ,x seems to h be5 con/ruct$ z mu* = com=t z = %[3 ! same rem>k may be appli$ to ,fig4 #d1 :i* c]ta9ly _c be recomm5d$ = its beauty1 be+ a /unt$ cone1 ) a back veil closely fitt+ ab\t ! neck1 & v sp>+ly ornam5t$2 x 0 worn by ,m>y1 wife ( ,john ,role/one1 :o di$ 9 #adhe4 ,^! may bo? h be5 pla9 c\ntry ladies1 f> remov$ f ,london1 & little tr\bl$ ) its fa%ionable freaks4 ,fig4 #e repres5ts ! fa%ionable head-dress ( ! la/ days ( ! h\se ( ,york4 ,x has be5 t]m$ ! he>t-%ap$ head-dress1 f ! appe>ance x pres5ts :5 view$ 9 front1 :i* resembles t ( a he>t1 & sometimes a cresc5t4 ,x is made ( black silk or velvet1 ornam5t$ ) gold /uds1 & hav+ a jewel ov] ! =ehead4 ,x has a long b& or lappet1 su* z ! g5tlem5 !n wore affix$ to _! hats4 ,figs4 #g & #h repres5t head-dresses worn 9 ! "t ( ,h5ry ,,viii4 ,^! are a sort ( cap1 :i* seem to comb9e cov]*ief & hood4 ,fig4 #g 0 at ?is "t ! extreme ( fa%ion4 ,x is edg$ ) lace1 & ornam5t$ ) jewelry1 & has altoge!r a look ( utt] unmean+ness & confusion ( =m4 ,fig4 #h has a hood easi] ( compreh5sion1 b no :it bett] 9 po9t ( elegance ?an h] pr$ecessors2 x fits ! head closely1 hav+ p5d5t jewels r\nd ! bottom & cross+ ! br[4 ,figs4 #i & #aa are hats ( a v simple /yle1 su* z 7 worn dur+ ! reign ( ,george ,,ii41 :5 an affect$ simplicity1 or milk-maid5 look1 0 covet$ by ! ladies1 bo? high & l[4 ,! hood worn by ,fig4 #aj 0 a complete envelope = ! head1 & 0 us$ 9 rid+1 or travell+1 z well z 9 walk+ 9 ! p>ks4 ,^! 7 call$ ,ni?sdales1 because ,lady ,ni?sdale cov]$ h] husb&'s face ) "o ( !m1 aft] dress+ him 9 h] clo!s1 & ?us disguis$ he escap$ f ! ,t[]4 ,fig4 #ab repres5ts a hat worn dur+ ! reign ( ,william ,,iii4 by a damsel :o 0 cry+1 ,fair *]ries1 at sixp5ce a p\nd6 ,x is ( /raw1 ) a ribbon ti$ ar\nd x 9 a simple & ta/eful mann]2 ! hat is altoge!r a light & graceful affair1 & its want ( obtrusiv5ess is p]haps its *ief recomm5dation4 ,figs4 #ac & #ad are hats su* z 7 worn by citiz5s & _! wives dur+ ! reigns ( ,james & ,*>les ,i4 ,figs4 #ae1 #af1 #ag1 7 su* head-dresses z 7 9 vogue 9 #agih4 ,fig4 #ae 0 ( a deep orange color1 ) b&s ( d>k *ocolate br[n2 a bun* ( sc>let tufts came ov] ! =ehead1 & x 0 held on ! head by a k]*ief ( :ite musl9 ti$ b5ea? ! *94 ,fig4 #af is a /raw bonnet1 ! cr[n decorat$ ) r$ p]p5dicul> /ripes1 ! front ov] ! face pla91 & a r[ ( laurel leaves surr\nds ! head2 a lav5d]-color$ tie secures x "u ! *94 ,bonnets some:at simil> to ^? n[ worn 7 fa%ionable two ye>s previ\s to ?is2 yet a small1 l[-cr[n$ hat1 l ! "o 9 ,fig4 #ag1 0 z mu* patroniz$ z any head-dress _h ev] be54 ,cock$ hats1 su* z is repres5t$ 9 ,fig4 #ah1 7 worn by ! g5tlem5 9 ! la/ "p ( ! ye> #agjj4 ,fig4 #ai repres5ts "o ( ! head-dresses worn dur+ ! reign ( ,h5ry ,,vi4 ,x is a comb9ation ( cov]*ief & turban4 ,fig4 #bj is a comb9ation ( ! head-dress ( ,fig4 #g ) ! lappet$ hood ( ,fig4 #h4 ,9 #aghf1 a v l>ge-brimm$ hat became fa%ionable ) ! ladies1 & cont9u$ 9 vogue = ! next two ye>s2 an idea ( ! back view ( x is giv5 9 ,fig4 #ba1 & a front view 9 ,fig4 #bb4 ,x 0 decorat$ ) triple fea!rs1 & a broad b& ( ribbon 0 ti$ 9 a b[ beh9d1 & all[$ to /ream d[n ! back4 ,! elegance ( turn :i* ! brim ( su* a hat af=d$ 0 completely ov]done by ! enormity ( its proportion2 & ! %elt] x gave ! face c n[ be consid]$ z ! only recomm5dation ( ?is fa%ion4 ,! hat worn by ,fig4 #bc 0 ! /yle ( #aghe4 ,fea!rs 7 !n mu* 9 favor1 & a poet ( ! "t writes ( ! ladies1-- ,no long] !y hunt aft] ribbons & lace2 ,und]tak]s h got 9 ! mill9]'s place2 ,) h&s sacrilegi\s !y've plund]$ ! dead1 ,& transf]r$ ! gay plumes f ! he>se to ! head4 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #b4 ,figure #bg4 ,/yle ( #aghb4 #bh1 #cj4 ,head-dress ( #agij4 #bi4 ,head-dress ( ! ,fr5* peasantry4 #ca4 ,fa%ion ( #agia4 #cb1 #cc4 ,fa%ion ( #aghi4 #cf4 ,head-dress ( ! comm5cem5t ( ! pres5t c5tury4 #ce4 ,engli% h\semaid4 #cg4 ,gigot sleeves1 ) cloak worn ov]4 #ch4 ,f a picture 9 ! ,l\vre4 ,fig4 #bd repres5ts ! head-dress worn 9 #aghb4 ,at no p]iod 9 ! hi/ory ( ! _w 0 any ?+ m absurd 9 head-dress ?an ! "o "h depict$4 ,! body ( ?is erection 0 =m$ ( t[1 ov] :i* ! hair 0 turn$1 & false hair add$ 9 great curls2 bobs & ties1 p[d]$ to pr(usion1 !n hung all ov] ) vulg>ly l>ge r[s ( pe>ls1 or glass beads1 fit only to decorate a *&eli]2 fl[]s z obtrusive 7 /uck ab\t ?is heap ( f9]y1 :i* 0 surm\nt$ by broad silk5 b&s & great o/ri* fea!rs1 until ! head-dress ( a lady add$ ?ree feet to h] /ature1 & ! male sex1 to use ! words ( ! ,spectator1 became sudd5ly dw>f$ beside h]4 ,to effect ?is1 mu* "t & tr\ble 7 wa/$1 & great p]sonal annoyance 0 suff]$4 ,heads1 :5 prop]ly dress$1 kept = ?ree weeks1 z ! b>b]s qua9tly phras$ x2 t !y w\ld n really keep long]1 may be se5 by ! _m receipts !y gave = ! de/ruction ( insects1 :i* br$ 9 ! fl\r & pomatum s lib]ally be/[$ ^u !m4 ,fig4 #be is ano!r fa%ionable outdoor head-dress4 ,fig4 #bf repres5ts "o ( ! hats inv5t$ to cov] ! head :5 full dress$4 ,x is z extravagant z ! head-dresses4 ,x is a l>ge b light comp\nd ( gauze1 wire1 ribbons1 & fl[]s1 slop+ ov] ! =ehead1 & %elt]+ ! head entirely by its imm5sity4 ,fig4 #bg %[s h[ imm5sely globul> ! head ( a lady _h become2 x swells all ar\nd l a huge pumpk91 & curls ( a correspond+ size aid 9 ! c>icature :i* n[ pass$ z fa%ionable ta/e4 ,z if ?is 7 n load en\gh = ! fair %\ld]s ( ! s(t] sex1 x is swa!d ) a huge veil or sc>f1 giv+ ! we>] an exce$+ly top-heavy look4 ,9 #agij1 ! ladies appe>$ 9 hats simil> to ^? worn by ! g5tlem5 9 #agib2 ^! are repres5t$ 9 ,figs4 #bh & #cj4 ,!y 7 gayly decorat$ ) gold /r+s1 & tassels1 cross$ & recross$ ov] ! cr[n4 ,! brims 7 broad1 rais$ at ! sides1 & po9t$ ov] ! face 9 a mann] n inelegant4 ,fig4 #bi has ! tall1 ugly bonnet1 copi$ f ! ,fr5* peasantry2 a long gauze bord] is atta*$ to ! edges1 :i* hangs l a veil ar\nd ! face1 & p>tially conceals x4 ,a hat ( a v piquant "* 0 adopt$ by ! ladies 9 #agia1 ( :i* a specim5 is giv5 9 ,fig4 #ca4 ,x is decorat$ ) b[s1 & a l>ge fea!r nods n ungracefully ov] ! cr[n f beh9d4 ,a p]son ) good face & figure mu/ h look$ becom+ly b5ea? x4 ,fig4 #cb is an example ( ! bad ta/e :i* /ill peep$ =?4 ,x is "o ( ! mo/ fa%ionable head-dresses worn 9 #aghi1 & is ! back view ( a lady's head1 surm\nt$ by a v small cap or hat1 puff$ r\nd ) ribbon2 ! hair is arrang$ 9 a long1 /raight bun* d[n ! neck1 :]e x is ti$ by a ribbon1 & fl[s 9 curls b5ea?2 long curls repose "o on ea* %\ld]1 :ile ! hair at ! sides ( ! head is frizz$ out on ea* side 9 a mo/ fanta/ic =m4 ,! hat ( ,fig4 #cc1 %ap$ l a *imney pot1 & decorat$ ) small tufts ( ribbon1 & l>g] b[s1 :i* fitt$ on a lady's head l ! cov] on a cani/]1 0 view$ ) m>vell\s favor by _m a fair eye1 9 ! ye> #aghi4 ,x 0 sometimes bord]$ ) lace1 z 9 ,fig4 #bi1 ?us hid+ ! entire head1 & consid]ably enhanc+ its ugl9ess4 ,,*apt] ,,ii4 ,,dress1 ,,z ,a ,,f9e ,,art4 ,9 a /ate s highly civiliz$ z t 9 :i* we live1 ! art ( dress has become extremely complicat$4 ,t x is an art to set (f our p]sons to ! greate/ advantage mu/ be g5]ally admitt$1 & we ?9k x is "o :i*1 "u c]ta9 conditions1 may be /udi$ by ! mo/ scrupul\s4 ,an art implies skill & dext]ity 9 sett+ (f or employ+ ! gifts ( nature to ! greate/ advantage1 & we are surely n wrong 9 lay+ x d[n z a g5]al pr9ciple1 t e "o may endeavor to set (f or improve 8 or h] p]sonal appe>ance1 provid$ t1 9 do+ s1 ! p>ty is guilty ( no deception4 ,z ?is proposition may be liable to "s miscon/ruction1 we w endeavor to expla9 our mean+4 ,9 ! fir/ place1 ! pr9ciple is act$ ^u by all :o /udy cleanl9ess & neatness1 :i* are univ]sally consid]$ z positive duties1 t are n only conducive to our own com=t1 b t society has a "r to expect f u4 ,aga93 ! rules ( society require t to a c]ta9 ext5t we %\ld adopt ^? =ms ( dress :i* are 9 common use1 b our own judgm5t %\ld be ex]cis$ 9 adapt+ ^! =ms to our individual proportions1 complexions1 ages1 & /ations 9 society4 ,9 accompli%+ ?is object1 ! mo/ p]fect hone/y & s9c]ity ( purpose may be obs]v$4 ,no deception is to be practis$1 no artifice employ$1 beyond t :i* is ex]cis$ by ! pa9t]1 :o arranges 8 subjects 9 ! mo/ pleas+ =ms1 & :o selects colors :i* h>monize ) ea* o!r2 & by ! manufactur]1 :o /udies pleas+ comb9ations ( l9es & colors4 ,we ex]cise ta/e 9 ! decoration & arrangem5t ( our ap>tm5ts & 9 our furniture1 & we are equally at lib]ty to d s ) reg>d to our dress2 b we "k t ta/e is n an in/9ctive p]ception ( ! beautiful & agreeable1 b is f\nd$ ^u ! obs]vance ( c]ta9 laws ( nature4 ,:5 we con=m to ^! laws1 ! result is pleas+ & satisfactory2 :5 we (f5d aga9/ !m1 ! contr>y effect takes place4 ,our p]sons *ange ) our ye>s2 ! *ild passes into y\?1 ! y\? into maturity1 maturity *anges into old age4 ,e p]iod ( life has its peculi> ext]nal *>act]i/ics1 its pleasures1 its pa9s1 & its pursuits4 ,! art ( dress consi/s 9 prop]ly adapt+ our clo?+ to ^! *anges4 ,we violate ! laws ( nature :5 we seek to repair ! ravages ( "t on our complexions by pa9t1 :5 we sub/itute false hair = t :i* age has ?9n$ or blan*$1 or conceal ! *ange by dye+ our own gray hair2 :5 we pad our dress to conceal t "o %\ld] is l>g] ?an ! o!r4 ,to d ei!r is n only bad ta/e1 b x is a positive brea* ( s9c]ity4 ,x is bad ta/e1 because ! means we h resort$ to are contr>y to ! laws ( nature4 ,! application ( pa9t to ! sk9 produces an effect s diff]5t f ! bloom ( y\?1 t x c only deceive an unpractis$ eye4 ,x is ! same ) ! hair3 !re is su* a want ( h>mony betwe5 false hair & ! face :i* x surr\nds1 especially :5 t face be>s ! m>ks ( age1 & ! color ( ! hair d5otes y\?1 t ! effect is unpleas+ 9 ! extreme4 ,deception ( ?is k9d1 !re=e1 does n answ] ! end :i* x _h 9 view2 x deceives nobody b ! un=tunate p]petrator ( ! w\ld-be deceit4 ,x is ab\t z s5seless a proce$+ z t ( ! goose 9 ! /ory1 :o1 :5 pursu$ by ! fox1 ?ru/ h] head into a h$ge1 & ?\ght t1 because %e c\ld no long] see ! fox1 ! fox c\ld n see h]4 ,b 9 a moral po9t ( view x is worse ?an silly2 x is adopt$ ) a view to deceive2 x is act+ a lie to all int5ts & purposes1 & x ought to be held 9 ! same k9d ( dete/ation z falsehood ) ! tongue4 ,zimm]man has an aphorism :i* is applicable to ?is case--,^? :o conceal _! age d n conceal _! folly4 ,! weak & va91 :o hope to conceal _! age by pa9t & false hair1 are1 h[ev]1 morally less culpable ?an ano!r class ( dissembl]s1 inasmu* z ! deception practis$ by ! fir/ is s palpable t x really deceives no "o4 ,) reg>d to ! o!r class ( dissembl]s1 we feel "s difficulty 9 approa*+ a subject ( s mu* delicacy4 ,yet1 z we h /at$ t we are at lib]ty to improve our natural appe>ance by well-adapt$ dress1 we ?9k x our duty to speak out1 le/ we %\ld be consid]$ z 9 any way c\nt5anc+ deception4 ,we allude to ^? physical defects induc$ by disease1 :i* are frequ5tly unit$ to great beauty ( c\nt5ance1 & :i* are sometimes s c>efully conceal$ by ! dress1 t !y are only discov]$ aft] m>riage4 ,hav+ ?us1 we hope1 e/abli%$ ! innoc5ce ( our motives1 we %all proce$ to m5tion ! legitimate means by :i* ! p]sonal appe>ance may be improv$ by ! /udy ( ! art ( dress4 ,fa%ion 9 dress is usually dictat$ by caprice or accid5t1 or by ! desire ( novelty4 ,x is nev]1 we believe1 bas$ ^u ! /udy ( ! figure4 ,x is some:at s+ul> t :ile e lady ?9ks h]self at lib]ty to we> any textile fabric or any color %e pleases1 %e consid]s h]self b\nd to adopt ! =m & /yle ( dress :i* ! fa%ion ( ! day has r5d]$ popul>4 ,! despotism ( fa%ion is limit$ to =m1 b color is free4 ,we h %[n1 9 ano!r essay1 7see clos+ *apt]17 :at lic5ti\sness ?is fre$om 9 ! adoption & mixture ( colors too frequ5tly induces4 ,we h also %[n t ! colors worn by ladies %\ld be ^? :i* contra/ or h>monize be/ ) _! individual complexions1 & we h endeavor$ to make ! selection ( suitable colors less difficult by means ( a few g5]al rules f\nd$ ^u ! laws ( h>mony & contra/ ( colors4 ,9 ! pres5t essay1 we propose to (f] "s g5]al obs]vations on =m 9 dress4 ,! subject is1 h[ev]1 bo? difficult & complicat$1 & z x is easi] to condemn ?an to improve or p]fect1 we %all m frequ5tly indicate :at fa%ions %\ld n be adopt$1 ?an recomm5d o!rs to ! patronage ( our read]s4 ,! imm$iate objects ( dress are tw(old--namely1 dec5cy & w>m?2 b s _m m9or consid]ations are suff]$ to influ5ce u 9 *oos+ our habilim5ts1 t ^! prim>y objects are too frequ5tly kept out ( sight4 ,dress %\ld be n only adapt$ to ! climate1 x %\ld also be light 9 weight1 %\ld yield to ! movem5ts ( ! body1 & %\ld be easily put on or remov$4 ,x %\ld also be adapt$ to ! /ation 9 society1 & to ! age1 ( ! individual4 ,^! are ! ess5tial conditions2 yet 9 practice h[ frequ5tly are !y ov]look$2 9 fact1 h[ seldom are !y obs]v$6 ,next 9 importance are g5]al elegance ( =m1 h>mony 9 ! arrangem5t & selection ( ! colors1 & special adaptation 9 =m & color to ! p]son ( ! individual4 ,to ^! objects we purpose direct+ ! att5tion ( ! read]4 ,x is impossible1 )9 ! limits we h prescrib$ ourselves1 to ent] into ! subject ( dress m9utely2 we c only deal ) x g5]ally1 & lay d[n c]ta9 broad pr9ciples = our guidance4 ,if ^! are obs]v$1 !re is /ill a wide m>g9 left = fancy & fa%ion4 ,^! may f9d scope 9 trimm+s & embroid]y2 ! application ( :i*1 h[ev]1 mu/ also be regulat$ by good ta/e & k4 ,! physical v>iety 9 ! human race is inf9ite2 s are ! gradations & comb9ations ( color2 yet we expect a few =ms ( dress to suit e age & complexion6 ,in/ead ( ! beautiful1 ! graceful1 & ! becom+1 :at are ! attractions (f]$ by ! dress mak]s8 ,:at are ! t]ms us$ to invite ! notice ( cu/om]s8 ,novelty & di/9ction4 ,! %ops are ,magas9s de ,n\veautes1 ! goods are di/+ues1 re*]*es1 n\veaux1 ! la/ fa%ion4 ,! new fa%ions are exhibit$ on ! elegant p]son ( "o ( ! dress mak]'s assi/ants1 :o is select$ = ?is purpose1 & are adopt$ by ! pur*as] )\t reflect+ h[ mu* ( ! attraction ( ! dress is to be ascrib$ to ! f9e figure ( ! we>]1 h[ mu* to ! beauty ( ! dress1 or :e!r x w look equally well on h]self4 ,s ! fa%ion is set1 & !n x is foll[$ by o!rs1 until at la/ x becomes s+ul> n to adopt "s modification ( x1 al?\gh ! extreme may be avoid$4 ,! be/ dress]s are g5]ally ^? :o foll[ ! fa%ions at a great di/ance4 ,fa%ion is ! only tyrant aga9/ :om mod]n civilization has n c>ri$ on a crusade1 & its p[] is /ill z unlimit$ & despotic z x ev] 04 ,f its dictates !re is no appeal2 heal? & dec5cy are alike (f]$ up at ! %r9e ( ?is ,molo*4 ,at its comm& its vot>ies melt "u fur boas 9 ! dog days1 & freeze ) b>e necks & arms1 9 lace dresses & sat9 %oes1 9 ,janu>y4 ,!n1 su* is its caprice1 t no soon] does a fa%ion become g5]al1 ?an1 let its m]its or beauties be ev] s great1 x is *ang$ = "o :i* p]haps has no?+ b its novelty to recomm5d x4 ,l ! b$ ( ,procru/es1 fa%ions are compell$ to suit e "o4 ,! same fa%ion is adopt$ by ! tall & ! %ort1 ! /\t & ! sl5d]1 ! old & ! "y1 ) :at effect we h daily opportunities ( obs]v+4 ,yet1 ) all its vag>ies1 fa%ion is extremely ari/ocratic 9 its t5d5cies4 ,e *ange emanates f ! highe/ circles1 :o reject x :5 x has desc5d$ to ! vulg>4 ,no new =m ( dress 0 ev] successful :i* did n orig9ate among ! ari/ocracy4 ,f ! ladies ( ! c\rt1 ! fa%ions desc5d ?r\gh all ! ranks ( society1 until !y at la/ die a natural dea? among ! ca/-(f clo!s ( ! h\semaid4 ,fig4 #ce4 ,_h ! ,bloom] co/ume1 :i* has obta9$ s mu* notoriety1 be5 introduc$ by a tall & graceful scion ( ! ari/ocracy1 ei!r ( rank or tal5t1 in/ead ( be+ at fir/ adopt$ by ! middle ranks1 x might h met ) bett] success4 ,we h se5 t ,j5ny ,l9d c\ld introduce a new fa%ion ( we>+ ! hair1 & a new =m ( hat or bonnet1 & ,mme4 ,sontag a cap :i* be>s h] "n4 ,b x 0 aga9/ all prec$5t to admit & foll[ a fa%ion1 let its m]its be ev] s great1 t emanat$ f ! /ronghold ( democracy4 ,we are cont5t to adopt ! greate/ absurdities 9 dress :5 !y are br\ght f ,p>is1 or recomm5d$ by a ,fr5* "n2 b ,am]ican fa%ions h no *ance ( success 9 ari/ocratic ,engl&4 ,x is beg9n+ at ! wrong end4 ,! ecc5tricities ( fa%ion are s great t !y w\ld appe> incr$ible if we _h n ocul> evid5ce ( _! preval5ce 9 ! portraits :i* /ill exi/4 ,at "o p]iod we read ( horn$ head-dresses1 :i* 7 s l>ge & high1 t x is said ! doors ( ! palace at ,v9c5nes 7 oblig$ to be alt]$ to admit ,isabel ( ,bav>ia 7que5 ( ,*>les ,,vi4 ( ,france7 & ! ladies ( h] suite4 ,9 ! reign ( ,edw>d ,,iv41 ! ladies' caps 7 ?ree qu>t]s ( an ell 9 height1 & 7 cov]$ by pieces ( lawn hang+ d[n to ! gr\nd1 or /ret*$ ov] a frame till !y resembl$ ! w+s ( a butt]fly4#a ,at ano!r "t ! ladies' heads 7 cov]$ ) gold nets1 l ^? worn at ! pres5t day4 ,!n1 aga91 ! hair1 /iff5$ ) p[d] & pomatum1 & surm\nt$ by fl[]s1 fea!rs1 & ribbons1 0 rais$ on ! top ( ! head l a t[]4 ,su* head-dresses 7 emphatically call$ tetes4 7,see *apt] on ,head-,dress47 ,fig4 #cf4 ,b to g back no f>!r ?an ! beg9n+ ( ! pres5t c5tury1 :]e ,mr4 ,fairholt's int]e/+ "w on ,briti% ,co/ume t]m9ates1 :at *anges h we to record6 ,! fir/ fa%ion we rememb] 0 t ( scanty clo?+1 :5 sl5d] figures 7 s mu* admir$1 t _m1 to :om nature _h d5i$ ?is qualification1 left (f ! "u g>m5ts necess>y = w>m?1 & fell victims to ! colds & consumptions induc$ by _! adoption ( ?is s5seless practice4 ,to ^! succe$$ wai/s s %ort t ! girdles 7 plac$ almo/ "u ! arms1 & z ! dresses 7 worn at t "t indec5tly l[ 9 ! neck1 ! body ( ! dress 0 almo/ a my?4 ,fig4 #ci4 #a ,mr4 ,plan*e has %[n1 9 8 ,hi/ory ( ,briti% ,co/ume1 t ^! head-dresses are ! prototypes ( ^? /ill worn by ! wom5 ( ,norm&y4 ,ab\t ! same "t1 ! sleeves 7 s %ort1 & ! skirts s curtail$ 9 l5g?1 t !re 0 reason to fe> t ! :ole ( ! drap]y might also become a my?4 ,a p>tial reaction !n took place1 & ! skirts 7 l5g!n$ )\t increas+ ! wid? ( ! dresses1 ! consequ5ce ( :i* 0 felt 9 ! c\ntry1 if n 9 ! t[ns4 ,!n woe to ^? :o _h to cross a dit* or a /ile6 ,"o ( two ?+s 0 inevitable2 ei!r ! un=tunate lady 0 ?r[n to ! gr\nd1--& 9 ?is case x 0 no easy matt] to rise aga91--or h] dress 0 split up4 ,! result dep5d$ entirely ^u ! /r5g? ( ! mat]ials ( :i* ! dress 0 compos$4 ,! next v>iation1 ! gigot sleeves1 namely1 7 a positive de=mity1 inasmu* z !y gave an unnatural wid? to ! %\ld]s--a defect :i* 0 fur!r increas$ by ! l>ge coll>s :i* fell ov] !m1 ?us violat+ "o ( ! fir/ pr9ciples ( beauty 9 ! female =m1 :i* dem&s t ?is "p ( ! body %\ld be n>r[2 bread? ( %\ld] be+ "o ( ! di/+ui%+ *>act]i/ics ( ! /rong] sex4 ,we rememb] to h se5 an engrav+ f a portrait1 by ,lawr5ce1 ( ! late ,lady ,bless+ton1 9 :i* ! bread? ( ! %\ld]s appe>$ to be at lea/ ?ree qu>t]s ( a y>d4 ,:5 a p]son ( l[ /ature1 we>+ sleeves ( ?is description1 0 cov]$ ) "o ( ! long cloaks1 :i* 7 made wide at ! %\ld]s to admit ! sleeves1 & to :i* 0 app5d$ a deep & v full cape1 ! effect 0 ridicul\s1 & ! outl9e ( ! :ole mass resembl$ t ( a haycock ) a head on ! top4 ,fig4 #cg4 ,"o absurdity g5]ally leads to ano!r2 to balance ! wide %\ld]s1 ! bonnets & caps 7 made ( enorm\s dim5sions1 & 7 decorat$ ) a pr(usion ( ribbons & fl[]s4 ,s absurd 0 ! :ole comb9ation1 t1 :5 we meet ) a portrait ( ?is p]iod1 we c only look on x 9 ! light ( a c>icature1 & wond] t su* %\ld ev] h be5 s univ]sal z to be adopt$ at la/ by all :o wi%$ to avoid s+ul>ity4 ,! transition f ! broad %\ld]s & gigot sleeves to ! tight sleeves & graceful black sc>f 0 q refre%+ to a ta/eful eye4 ,^! 7 a few ( ! freaks ( fa%ion dur+ ! la/ half c5tury4 ,_h !y be5 q h>mless1 we might h consid]$ !m z m]ely ridicul\s2 b "s ( !m 7 positively indec5t1 & o!rs detrim5tal to heal?4 ,we grieve especially = ! =m] *>ge3 x is an anomaly = :i*1 consid]+ ! mode/ habits & education ( our c\ntrywom51 we f9d x difficult to acc\nt4 ,x is s+ul> t ! practice ( we>+ dresses cut l[ r\nd ! bu/ %\ld be limit$ to :at is call$ full dress1 & to ! high]1 &1 except 9 ?is in/ance1 ! m ref9$ classes4 ,is x to display a beautiful neck & %\ld]s8 ,no2 = 9 ?is case x w\ld be conf9$ to ^? :o _h beautiful necks & %\ld]s to display4 ,is x to obta9 ! admiration ( ! o!r sex8 ,t _c be2 = we believe t m5 look ^u ?is exposure ) unmitigat$ di/a/e1 & t !y are incl9$ to d\bt ! mode/y ( ^? "y ladies :o make s pr(use a display ( _! *>ms4 ,b if objectionable 9 ! "y1 ^: y\? & beauty might possibly be deem$ "s ext5uation1 x is disgu/+ 9 ^? ^: bloom is pa/1 :e!r _! =ms are develop$ ) a ripe luxuriance :i* makes ! female figures ( ,rub5s appe> 9 comp>ison sl5d] & ref9$1 or :e!r ! yell[ sk91 /ret*$ ov] ! wiry s9ews ( ! neck1 rem9d "o ( ! old wom5 :om "s ( ! ,italian ma/]s 7 accu/om$ to introduce into _! pieces1 to enhance1 by contra/1 ! beauty ( ! pr9cipal figures4 ,e p]iod ( life has a /yle ( dress peculi>ly appropriate to x1 & we ma9ta9 t ! uncov]$ bosom s conspicu\s 9 ! dissolute reign ( ,*>les ,,ii41 & f :i*1 inde$1 ! reign ( ,*>les ,i4 0 n1 z we le>n f ! ,v&yck portraits1 exempt1 %\ld be limit$1 ev5 9 its wide/ ext5sion1 to fem99e y\?1 or r *ildhood4 ,if ! dress be cut l[1 ! bu/ %\ld be cov]$ aft] ! mode/ & becom+ fa%ion ( ! ,italian wom51 ^: highly picturesque co/ume pa9t]s are s fond ( repres5t+4 ,! :ite drap]y has a peculi>ly good effect1 plac$ z x is betwe5 ! sk9 & ri*ly-color$ bodice4 ,z examples ( ?is /yle ( dress1 we may ref] to ,sir ,*>les ,ea/lake's ,pilgrims 9 ,sight ( ,rome1 ,! ,grape ,ga!r] ( ,capri1 by ,lehmann1 & ,! ,danc+ ,lesson1 by ,mr4 ,uw9s1 all ( :i* are engrav$ 9 ! ,art ,j\rnal4 ,ano!r h9t may be borr[$ f ! ,italian co/ume2 we may j allude to x en passant4 ,if bodices fitt+ to ! %ape mu/ be worn1 !y %\ld be lac$ across ! front 9 ! ,italian fa%ion4 ,fig4 #ch4 ,by ?is contrivance ! dress w suit ! figure m p]fectly1 & z ! lace may be l5g!n$ or %ort5$ at pleasure1 any degree ( tightness may be giv51 & ! bodice may be accommodat$ to ! figure )\t compress+ x4 ,we f9d by ! picture 9 ! ,l\vre call$ sometimes ,titian's ,mi/ress t ?is co/ume is at lea/ z old z ,titian4 ,we h notic$ ! *anges & transitions ( fa%ion2 we mu/ m5tion "o po9t 9 :i* x has cont9u$ con/ant f ! "t ( ,william ,rufus until ! pres5t day1 & :i*1 s9ce x has entail$ ye>s ( suff]+1 & 9 _m in/ances has caus$ dea?1 dem&s our mo/ s]i\s att5tion4 ,we allude to ! p]nici\s practice ( tight lac+1 :i*1 z appe>s f contempor>y pa9t+s1 0 z g5]al on ! cont95t z 9 ,engl&4 ,! savage ,am]ican ,indian *anges ! %ape ( ! s(t & ela/ic bones ( ! skull ( 8 infant by compress+ x betwe5 two bo>ds2 ! intellig5t b prejudic$ ,*9ese suff]s ! head to gr[ z nature =m$ x1 b conf9es ! foot ( ! female to ! size ( an infant's2 :ile ! highly-intellectual & well-in=m$ ,european lady limits ! gr[? ( h] wai/ by ! pressure ( ! /ays4 ,:5 we consid] ! importance ( ! organs :i* suff] by ^! cu/oms1 surely we mu/ ackn[l$ge t ! la/ is ! mo/ b>b>\s practice ( ! ?ree4 ,we read 9 ! hi/ory ( ,france t ! w>-l ,franks _h su* a dislike to corpul5cy t !y inflict$ a f9e ^u all :o c\ld n encircle _! wai/s ) a b& ( a c]ta9 l5g?4 ,h[ f> ?is extraord9>y cu/om may h be5 influ5tial 9 introduc+ ! pr$ilection = small wai/s among ! ladies ( t c\ntry1 z well z our own ?r\gh ! ,norman conqu]ors1 we _c det]m9e4 ,dur+ ! reign ( ,que5 ,elizabe?1 ! :ole ( ! upp] "p ( ! body1 f ! wai/ to ! *91 0 encas$ 9 a cuirass ( :alebone1 ! rigidity ( :i* r5d]$ easy & graceful movem5t impossible4 ,! portrait ( ,elizabe? by ,zuc*]o1 ) its /iff dress & enorm\s ruff1 & :i* has be5 s frequ5tly engrav$1 mu/ be 9 ! memory ( all our read]s4 ,/iffness 0 inde$ ! *>act]i/ic ( ladies' dress at ?is p]iod2 ! :alebone cuirass1 cov]$ ) ! ri*e/ brocad$ silks1 0 unit$ at ! wai/ ) ! equally /iff v>d+ale or f>d+ale1 :i* desc5d$ to ! feet 9 ! =m ( a l>ge bell1 )\t a s+le fold4 ,!re is a portrait 9 ! possession ( ,mr4 ,seym\r ,fitzg]ald ( ! un=tunate ,m>y ,que5 ( ,scots1 :5 q "y1 9 a dress ( ?is k9d2 & "o _c help pity+ ! poor girl's rigid conf9em5t 9 h] /iff & uncom=table dress4 ,fig4 #da repres5ts ,jeanne d',albret1 ! "m ( ,h5ry ,,iv41 9 ! f>d+ale4 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #c4 ,figure #ci4 ,dress1 ) %ort wai/ & sleeves4 #da4 ,dress ( ! "m ( ,h5ry ,,iv4 #dj4 ,dress ( ,h5rietta ,m>ia4 #db4 ,f ! ,illu/rat$ ,london ,news4 ,) ,h5rietta ,m>ia dresses cut l[ 9 ! front1 7,fig4 #dj17 & fl[+ drap]ies1 z we f9d !m 9 ! ,v&yck portraits1 came into fa%ion1 b ! figure /ill reta9$ its /iffness ar\nd ! wai/1 & has cont9u$ to d s ?r\gh all ! gradations & v>iations 9 %ape & size ( ! hoop petticoat1 & ! scanty drap]ies ( a lat] p]iod1 until ! pres5t day4#b #b ,! f>d+ale diff]$ f ! hoop 9 ! foll[+ p>ticul>s3 ,! hoop petticoat 0 ga!r$ r\nd ! wai/1 :ile ! f>d+ale 0 )\t a fold ( any description4 ,! mo/ extraord9>y in/ances we rememb] to h se5 ( ! f>d+ale1 are 9 two or ?ree pictures ( ! ,virg9 9 ! ,spani% gall]y 9 ! ,l\vre1 :]e ! f>d+ale 9 :i* ! ,virg9 is dress$ takes ! =m ( an enorm\s mitre4 ,if ! proportions ( ! figure 7 g5]ally und]/ood1 we %\ld n he> ( ^? deplorable1 & 9 _m cases fatal1 results ( tight lac+ :i* h un=tunately be5 s num]\s4 ,s g5]al has ! p]nici\s practice be5 9 ?is c\ntry1 t a m$ical fri5d1 :o is pr(essor ( anatomy 9 a prov9cial academy1 in=m$ u t !re 0 great difficulty 9 procur+ a model ^: wai/ _h n be5 compress$ by /ays4 ,t ?is is true ( o!r localities besides t allud$ to1 may be inf]r$ f a passage 9 ,mr4 ,hay's lecture to ! ,society ( ,arts ,on ! ,geometrical ,pr9ciples ( ,beauty1 9 :i* he m5tions hav+1 = ! purpose ( v]ify+ 8 !ory1 employ$ an arti/ :o1 hav+ /udi$ ! human figure at ! life academies on ! cont95t1 9 ,london1 & 9 ,ed9burgh1 0 well acqua9t$ ) ! subject1 to make a c>eful draw+ ( ! be/ liv+ model :i* c\ld be procur$ = ! purpose4 ,mr4 ,hay obs]ves1 ) ref]5ce to ?is o!rwise f9e figure1 t ! wai/ has evid5tly be5 compress$ by ! use ( /ays4 ,9 fur!r confirmation ( ! preval5ce ( ?is bad habit1 we may ref] to ,etty's pictures1 9 :i* ?is defect is b too app>5t4 ,we fe>1 f ,mr4 ,plan*e's extracts1 t ! evil 0 p]petuat$ by ! poets & romance writ]s ( ! ,norman p]iod2 & we are sure t ! noveli/s ( our own times h mu* to answ] = on ?is score4 ,_h !y n be5 =ev] prais+ tap] wai/s1 tight lac+ w\ld h %>$ ! fate ( o!r fa%ions1 & h be5 bani%$ f all civiliz$ society4 ,simil> blame does n atta* to ! pa9t] & sculptor4 ,! creations ( _! inv5tion are modell$ ^u ! true pr9ciples ( proportion & beauty1 & 9 _! works a small wai/ & foot are always accompani$ by a sl5d] =m4 ,9 ! m9d ( ! poet & noveli/ ! same associations may take place3 :5 a writ] describes ! sl5d] wai/ or small foot1 he probably sees m5tally ! :ole sl5d] figure4 ,! small wai/ is a proportionate "p ( ! figure ( 8 creation4 ,b !re is ?is diff]5ce betwe5 ! pa9t] & sculptor1 & ! noveli/4 ,! works ( ! fir/ two address !mselves to ! eye1 & e "p ( ! =m is pres5t to ! spectator2 consequ5tly1 z reg>ds =m1 no?+ is left to ! imag9ation4 ,) respect to ! poet & noveli/1 _! creations are almo/ entirely m5tal ones2 _! descriptions t\* ^u a few /rik+ po9ts only1 & are seldom s full z to fill up ! entire =m3 mu* is1 !re=e1 necess>ily left to ! imag9ation ( ! read]4 ,n[1 ! fa%ion 9 :i* ! read] w supply ! details left undet]m9$ by ! poet & noveli/1 & fill up _! scanty & %ad[y outl9es1 dep5ds entirely ^u 8 k ( =m2 consequ5tly1 if ?is be small1 ! images :i* arise 9 ! m9d ( ! read] f ! p]usal ( works ( g5ius are confus$ & imp]fect1 & ! proportions ( "o class ( =ms are assign$ to1 or m+l$ )1 ^? ( o!rs1 )\t ! slighte/ reg>d to tru? & nature4 ,:5 we say1 !re=e1 t writ]s leave mu* to ! imag9ation1 x may too frequ5tly be und]/ood1 to ! ignorance ( ! read]2 = ! imag9ations ( ^? acqua9t$ ) =m & proportion1 :o g5]ally con/itute ! m9ority1 always create well-proportion$ ideal =ms2 :ile ! ideal productions ( ! un$ucat$1 :e!r express$ by ! p5cil1 ! *isel1 or ! p51 are always ill proportion$ & defective4 ,! mo/ effici5t me?od ( putt+ an end to ! practice ( tight lac+ w be1 n m]ely to po9t out its unheal?9ess1 & ev5 dang]\s consequ5ces1 because ^!1 ?\gh imm95t1 are unc]ta91--e lady :o resorts to ! practice hop+ t %e1 individually1 may escape ! p5alty1--b to prove t ! practice1 s f> f add+ to ! beauty ( ! figure1 actually det]iorates x4 ,?is is an effect1 n d\btful1 l ! =m] case1 b an actual & positive fact2 &1 !re=e1 x supplies a good & suffici5t reason1 & "o :i* ! mo/ obtuse intellect c compreh5d1 = avoid+ ! practice4 ,"y ladies w sometimes1 x is said1 run ! risk ( ill heal? = ! sake ( ! int]e/ t 9 "s cases atta*es to delicate heal?2 b is !re any "o :o w\ld l to be told t1 by tight lac+1 %e makes h] figure n only de=m$1 b positively ugly8 ,?is1 h[ev]1 is ! pla9 unv>ni%$ tru?2 &1 by ass]t+ x1 we are /rik+ at ! root ( ! evil4 ,! rem$y is easy3 give to e "y lady a g5]al k ( =m1 & ( ! pr9ciples ( beauty z appli$ to ! human frame1 & :5 ^! are bett] und]/ood1 & act$ on1 tight lac+ w die a natural dea?4 ,! /udy ( =m1 on sci5tific pr9ciples1 has hi!rto be5 limit$ entirely to m52 & if "s wom5 h atta9$ ?is k1 x has be5 by _! own unassi/$ ef=ts2 t is to say1 )\t ! advantages :i* m5 d]ive f lectures & academical /udies4 ,9 ?is1 z 9 o!r acquirem5ts1 ! pursuit ( k1 z reg>ds wom51 is always att5d$ ) difficulties4 ,:ile fully concurr+ 9 ! propriety ( hav+ sep>ate s*ools = male & female /ud5ts1 we d ?9k t a k ( =m may be communicat$ to all p]sons1 & t a "y woman w n make ! worse wife1 or "m1 = und]/&+ ! economy ( ! human frame1 & = hav+ acquir$ ! p[] ( appreciat+ its beauties4 ,we fe> t !re are /ill "s p]sons ^: m9ds are s contract$ z to ?9k t1 n only /udies ( ?is nature1 b ev5 ! contemplation ( undrap$ /atu>y1 are d]ogatory to ! delicacy & purity ( ! female m9d2 b we are satisfi$ t ! ?9k+ "p ( ! community w approve ! c\rse we recomm5d4 ,dr4 ,s\?wood ,smi?1 :o is s honorably di/+ui%$ by 8 endeavors to promote ! sanatory condition ( ! p1 /r5u\sly advocates ! necessity ( giv+ to all wom5 a k ( ! /ructure & functions ( ! body1 ) a view to ! prop] dis*>ge ( _! duties z mo!rs4 ,he rem>ks 7,preface to ,philosophy ( ,heal?7 on ?is subject1 ,i look ^u t notion ( delicacy :i* w\ld exclude wom5 f k calculat$ 9 an extraord9>y degree to op51 exalt1 & purify _! m9ds1 & to fit !m = ! p]=mance ( _! duties1 z alike degrad+ to ^? to :om x affects to %[ respect1 & debas+ to ! m9d t ent]ta9s x4 ,at ! pres5t "t1 ! k ( :at con/itutes true beauty ( =m is1 p]haps1 be/ acquir$ by ! contemplation ( good pictures & sculpture4 ,?is may n be 9 ! p[] ( e body2 ca/s1 h[ev]1 may be frequ5tly obta9$ f ! be/ /atues2 & _m ( ! f9e/ works ( pa9t+ are r5d]$ famili> to u by engrav+s4 ,! ,art ,j\rnal has done mu* 9 diffus+ a ta/e = art1 by ! engrav+s x conta9s f /atues1 & f ! f9e works ( ,engli% art 9 ! ,v]non ,gall]y4 ,engrav+s1 h[ev]1 c ( c\rse repres5t a /atue 9 "o po9t ( view only2 b ca/s are n[ s *eap z to be )9 ! rea* ( all p]sons4 ,small models ( ! ,greek ,slave are n unfrequ5tly (f]$ by ! ,italian image v5d]s = "o %ill+2 & al?\gh ^! are n %>p en\gh to draw f1 ! =m is suffici5tly correct to /udy ! g5]al proportions ( ! figure2 & z ?is figure is m upright ?an /atues usually are1 x may be f\nd exce$+ly useful = ! above purpose4 ,"o ( ^! ca/s1 or1 if possible1 a %>p] & bett] ca/ ( a female figure1 %\ld be f\nd on ! toilette ( e "y lady :o is desir\s ( obta9+ a k ( ! proportions & beauties ( ! figure4 ,we believe x w always be f\nd t ! beauty ( a figure dep5ds n only ^u ! symmetry ( ! p>ts individually1 b ^u ! h>mony & proportion ( ea* "p to ! re/4 ,! v>ieties ( ! human =m h be5 class$ "u ! g5]al heads ( ! broad1 ! proportionate1 & ! sl5d]4 ,! fir/ betok5s /r5g?2 & :at beauty soev]1 ( a peculi> k9d1 x may display 9 ! figure ( ! ,h]cules1 x is n adapt$ to set (f ! *>ms ( ! female sex4 ,if1 h[ev]1 ea* individual "p be>s a proportionate relation to ! :ole1 ! figure w n be )\t its attraction4 ,x is only :5 ! proportions ( two or ?ree ( ! classes are unit$ 9 "o individual1 t ! figure becomes ungraceful & rem>kable4 ,! a?letic--if ! t]m may be appli$ to females--=m ( ! c\ntry girl w\ld appe> ridicul\s ) ! small wai/1 & ! :ite & tap] f+]s1 & small feet ( ! individuals :o come "u ! d5om9ation ( sl5d] =ms4 ,! tall & delicate figure w\ld lose its beauty if unit$ to ! l>ge & broad h&s :i* p]ta9 to ! /rong] type4 ,a small wai/ & foot are z great a blemi% to an individual ( ! broad v>iety z a l>ge wai/ & foot are to ! sl5d]4 ,!re is a h>mony1 says ,dr4 ,wamp51 betwe5 all ! p>ts 9 ea* k9d ( =m1 b ea* integral is only suit$ to its own k9d ( =m4 ,true beauty consi/s n only 9 ! h>mony ( ! elem5ts1 b 9 _! be+ suitable to ! k9d ( =m4 ,7 ?is fundam5tal tru? b ?or\ghly und]/ood1 small wai/s & small feet w\ld be at a disc\nt4 ,:5 !y are recogniz$ z small1 !y h ceas$ to be beautiful1 because !y are disproportionate4 ,:]e e "p ( a figure is p]fectly proportion$ to ! re/1 no s+le p>ts appe> ei!r l>ge or small4 ,! ill effects ( ! /ays 9 a sanatory po9t ( view h be5 frequ5tly po9t$ out1 & we hope are n[ und]/ood4 ,x w1 !re=e1 be unnecess>y to enl>ge on ?is head4 ,we h ass]t$ t /ays are detrim5tal to beauty ( =m2 we %all n[ endeavor to %[ 9 :at p>ticul>s4 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #d4 ,figures #dc1 #dd4 ,f ! plates ( ,somma]+1 %[s ! wai/ ( ! ,v5us ( antiquity4 #de1 #df4 ,! wai/ ( a mod]n lady1 f ! above4 #di4 ,f ! ,london ,news4 #ej4 ,woman ( ,mityl5e4 #ec4 ,alg]9e woman4 #ed4 ,! ar*on's wife4 ,! natural =m ( ! "p ( ! trunk :i* =ms ! wai/ is n absolutely cyl9drical1 b is flatt5$ consid]ably 9 front & back1 s t ! bread? is mu* great] f side to side ?an f front to back4 ,?is 0 und\bt$ly contriv$ = wise purposes2 yet fa%ion1 ) its usual caprice1 has int]f]$ ) nature1 & by promulgat+ ! p]nici\s error t a r\nd$ =m ( ! wai/ is m beautiful ?an ! flatt5$ =m adopt$ by nature1 has endeavor$ to effect ?is *ange by means ( ! /ays1 :i* =ce ! l[] ribs clos] toge!r1 & s produce ! desir$ =m4 ,no?+ c be m ungraceful ?an ! sudd5 dim9ution 9 ! size ( ! wai/ occasion$ by ! compression ( ! ribs1 z comp>$ ) ! g5tly undulat+ l9e ( nature2 yet1 we are sorry to say1 no?+ is m common4 ,a glance at ! cuts1 ,figs4 #dc1 #dd1 #de1 #df1 f ! "w ( ,somma]+1 w expla9 our mean+ m cle>ly ?an words4 ,fig4 #dc repres5ts ! natural wai/ ( ! ,v5us ( antiquity2 ,fig4 #de1 t ( a lady ( ! mod]n p]iod4 ,! diagrams #dd & #df %[ ! /ructure ( ! ribs ( ea*4 ,x w be se5 t1 by ! pressure ( ! /ays1 ! ar* =m$ by ! l[] ribs is entirely clos$1 & ! wai/ becomes f\r or five in*es small] ?an x 0 int5d$ by nature4 ,is x any wond] t p]sons s de=m$ %\ld h bad heal?1 or t !y %\ld produce unheal?y (fspr+8 ,is x any wond] t s _m "y mo!rs %\ld h to lam5t ! loss ( _! fir/ born8 ,we h frequ5tly trac$ tight lac+ 9 connection ) ?is sad ev5t1 & we _c help look+ ^u x z cause & effect4 ,by way ( fur!r illu/ration1 we ref] our read]s to "s ( ! num]\s engrav+s f /atues 9 ! ,art ,j\rnal1 :i*1 ?\gh v beautiful1 are n di/+ui%$ by small wai/s4 ,we may m5tion1 z examples1 ,bailey's ,graces2 ,m>%all's ,danc+ ,girl ,repos+2 ,! ,toilet1 by ,wickman2 ,! ,bav>ia1 by ,s*wan?al]2 & ,! ,psy*e1 by ,!$4 ,!re is ano!r effect produc$ by tight lac+1 :i* is too ungraceful 9 its results to be ov]look$1 namely1 t a pressure on "o "p is frequ5tly1 f ! ela/icity ( ! figure1 comp5sat$ by an enl>gem5t 9 ano!r "p4 ,x has be5 frequ5tly urg$ by inconsid]ate p]sons1 t1 :]e !re is a t5d5cy to corpul5cy1 /ays are necess>y to limit exub]ant gr[?1 & conf9e ! =m )9 ! limits ( g5tility4 ,we believe t ?is is entirely a mi/ake1 & t1 if ! wai/ be compress$1 great] fulness w be p]ceptible bo? above & bel[1 j z1 :5 "o ties a /r+ tight r\nd ! middle ( a pill[1 x is r5d]$ full] at ea* end4 ,) ref]5ce to ! wai/1 z to e ?+ else1 ! ju/e milieu is lit]ally ! ?+ to be desir$4 ,x has be5 already obs]v$1 t a small wai/ is beautiful only :5 x is accompani$ by a sl5d] & small figure2 b1 z ! "p ( ! trunk1 imm$iately b5ea? ! arms1 is fill$ ) p[]ful muscles1 ^!1 :5 develop$ by ex]cise1 imp>t a bread? to ?is "p ( ! figure :i*1 by comp>ison1 causes ! wai/ to appe> small4 ,a famili> example ( ?is1 9 ! male figure1 pres5ts itself 9 ! ,h]cules1 ! wai/ ( :i* appe>s disproportionately small2 yet x is really ( ! normal size1 its app>5t smallness be+ occasion$ by ! prodigi\s developm5t ( ! muscles ( ! upp] "p ( ! body4 ,! true way ( dim9i%+ ! app>5t size ( ! wai/1 is1 z we h rem>k$ above1 by increas+ ! p[] ( ! muscles ( ! upp] "p ( ! frame4 ,?is c only be done by ex]cise2 & z ! habits ( society1 z n[ con/itut$1 preclude ! employm5t ( "y ladies 9 h\sehold duties1 !y are oblig$ to f9d a sub/itute = ?is heal?y ex]tion 9 cali/h5ics4 ,!re 0 a "t :5 ev5 ! que5s ( ,spa9 did n disda9 to employ _! royal h&s 9 mak+ sausages2 & to su* p]fection 0 ?is cul9>y accompli%m5t c>ri$ at "o p]iod1 t x is ^u record t ! ,emp]or ,*>les ,v41 aft] 8 retirem5t f ! c>es & dignities ( ! empire1 long$ = sausages ( ! k9d :i* ,que5 ,juana1 n[ 9 glory1 us$ to pride h]self 9 mak+ 9 ! ,flemi% fa%ion4 7,see ,mr4 ,/irl+'s ,cloi/] ,life ( ,*>les ,v47 ,?is is really l go+ back to ! old times1 :5-- ,! ,que5 ( ,he>ts1 %e made "s t>ts4 ,9 ,engl&1 "s fifty ye>s ago1 ! "y ladies ( ! anci5t city ( ,norwi* 7 n consid]$ to h complet$ _! education1 until !y _h sp5t "s mon?s "u ! tuition ( ! fir/ confection] 9 ! city1 9 le>n+ to make cakes & pa/ry--an art :i* !y aft]w>ds cont9u$ :5 !y possess$ h\ses ( _! own4 ,?is :olesome discipl9e ( beat+ eggs & :ipp+ creams1 knead+ biscuits & g+]bread1 0 calculat$ to pres]ve _! heal?1 & af=d suffici5t ex]cise to ! muscles ( ! arms & %\ld]s1 )\t hav+ rec\rse to artificial modes ( ex]tion4 ,x does n appe> t ! anci5ts set ! same value ^u a small wai/ z ! mod]ns2 =1 9 _! drap$ female figures1 ! :ole circuit ( ! wai/ is seldom visible1 "s folds ( ! drap]y be+ suff]$ to fall ov] a "p1 ?us leav+ its exact ext5t to ! imag9ation4 ,! same rem>k is applicable to ! great ,italian pa9t]s1 :o seldom m>k$ ! :ole cont\r ( ! wai/1 unless :5 pa9t+ portraits1 9 :i* case ! co/ume 0 ( c\rse obs]v$4 ,x 0 n s1 h[ev]1 ) ! %\ld]s1 ! true wid? ( :i* 0 always se52 & h[ volum9\s soev] ! folds ( ! drap]y ar\nd ! body1 x 0 nev] arrang$ s z to add to ! wid? ( ! %\ld]s4 ,n>r[ %\ld]s & broad hips are e/eem$ beauties 9 ! female figure1 :ile 9 ! male figure ! broad %\ld]s & n>r[ hips are mo/ admir$4 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #e4 ,figure #dg4 ,a!nian peasant4 #dh4 ,%eph]dess ( ,arcadia4 #ea4 ,a!nian woman4 #eb4 ,fr5* co/ume ( ! t5? c5tury4 #fb4 ,lady ( ! "t ( ,h5ry ,v4 ,! co/ume ( ! mod]n ,greeks is frequ5tly v graceful1 7,fig4 #dg1 peasant f ! environs ( ,a!ns17 & x adapts itself well to ! figure1 ! movem5ts ( :i* x does n re/ra94 ,! prevail+ *>act]i/ics ( ! co/ume are a long robe1 rea*+ to ! gr\nd1 ) full sleeves1 v wide at ! b&s4 ,?is dress is frequ5tly embroid]$ ) a graceful patt]n r\nd ! skirt & sleeves4 ,ov] x is worn a pelisse1 :i* rea*es only to ! knees1 & is op5 9 front2 ei!r )\t any sleeves1 or ) tight ones1 f9i%+ at ! elb[s2 b5ea? :i* are se5 ! full sleeves ( ! long robe4 ,! drap]y ov] ! bu/ is full1 & is sometimes conf9$ at ! wai/ by a belt2 at o!rs x is suff]$ to hang loosely until x meets ! broad1 sa%-l girdle :i* encircles ! hips1 & :i* hangs s loosely t ! h&s are re/$ 9 its folds z 9 a pocket4 ,! drap]y g5]ally t]m9ates at ! ?roat1 "u a necklace ( co9s or jewels4 ,! mo/ usual =m ( head-dress is a veil s volum9\s z to cov] ! head & %\ld]s2 "o end ( ! veil is frequ5tly ?r[n ov] ! %\ld]1 or ga!r$ into a knot beh9d4 ,! %oes1 app>5tly worn only = walk+1 consi/ g5]ally ( a v ?ick sole1 ) a cap ov] ! toes4 ,"o glance at ! graceful figures 9 ! plates is suffici5t to %[ h[ unnecess>y /ays are to ! beauty ( ! figure4 ,fig4 #dh1 ,%eph]dess ( ,arcadia4 ,! mod]n ,greek co/umes :i* we h select$ = our illu/rations1 f ! beautiful "w ( ,m4 de ,/ackelb]g1 7,co/umes et ,peuples de la ,grece ,mod]ne1 publi%$ at ,rome1 #ahbe17 sugge/ sev]al po9ts = consid]ation1 & "s = our imitation4 ,! dress is long & fl[+1 & high 9 ! neck4 ,x does n add to ! wid? ( ! %\ld]s2 x conceals ! exact size ( ! wai/ by ! loose pelisse1 :i* is op5 9 front2 x falls 9 a graceful & fl[+ l9e f ! arm-pits1 n>r[+ a little at ! wai/1 & spread+ g5tly ov] ! hips1 :5 ! skirt falls by its own weight into l>ge folds1 in/ead ( curv+ sudd5ly f an unnaturally small wai/ ov] a hide\s bu/le1 & increas+ 9 size d[nw>d to ! hem ( ! dress1 l a bell1 z 9 ! pres5t ,engli% co/ume4 ,figs4 #db & #di are select$ f ! ,illu/rat$ ,london ,news4 7,volume = #ahea1 ,july to ,decemb]1 pp4 #bj & #aag47 ,! "o repres5ts out-door co/ume1 ! o!r 9-door4 ,_m su* are scatt]$ ?r\gh ! pages ( our amus+ & valuable contempor>y4 ,= ! out-door co/ume we beg to ref] our read]s to ! l>ge woodcut 9 ! same volume1 7pp4 #dbd1 #dbe47 ,if a travell] f a di/ant c\ntry1 unacqua9t$ ) ! ,engli% & ,fr5* fa%ions1 7 to contemplate ?is cut1 he w\ld be puzzl$ to acc\nt = ! rem>kable %ape ( ! ladies1 :o all1 m or less1 resemble ! figure we h select$ = our illu/ration2 &1 if he is any ?+ ( a naturali/1 he w set !m d[n 9 8 own m9d z belong+ to a new species ( ! g5us homo4 ,look+ at ?is & o!r pr9ts ( ! day1 we %\ld ?9k t ! arti/s int5d$ to convey a satire on ! ladies' dress1 if we did n frequ5tly meet ) su* figures 9 real life4 ,! lady 9 ! ev5+ dress 7,fig4 #di7 is f a l>ge woodcut 9 ! same j\rnal repres5t+ a ball4 ,?is co/ume1 ) mu* pret5sion to elegance1 exhibits mo/ ( ! faults ( ! mod]n /yle ( dress4 ,x comb9es ! indec5tly l[ dress1 ) ! p9*$ wai/1 & ! hoop petticoat4 ,9 ! figure ( ! woman ( ,mityl5e1 7,fig4 #ej17 ! true =m & wid? ( ! %\ld]s are app>5t1 & ! =m ( ! bu/ is indicat$1 b n expos$1 ?r\gh ! loosely fitt+ drap]y :i* cov]s x4 ,9 ! figure ( ! ,a!nian peasant1 7,fig4 #dg174 ! loose drap]y ov] ! bu/ is conf9$ at ! wai/ by a broad b&1 :ile ! hips are encircl$ by ! sa%-l girdle 9 :i* ! figure re/s h] h&s4 ,! skirt ( ! pelisse appe>s d\ble1 & ! %ort sleeve1 embroid]$ at ! edge1 %[s ! full sleeve ( ! "u drap]y1 also ri*ly embroid]$4 ,9 ! second figure f ! environs ( ,a!ns1 7,fig4 #ea17 we obs]ve t ! skirt ( ! pelisse1 in/ead ( be+ set on 9 ga!rs or plaits1 z our dresses are1 is gor$1 or slop$ away at ! top1 :]e x unites almo/ imp]ceptibly ) ! body1 giv+ rise to undulat+ l9es1 in/ead ( sudd5 transitions & curves4 ,9 ! cut ( ! ,arcadian peasant1 7,fig4 #dh17 ! pelisse is %ort5$ almo/ to a sp5c]1 or cote h>die1 & x wants ! graceful fl[ ( ! long] skirt1 = :i* ! closely fitt+ embroid]$ apron is no comp5sation4 ,?is figure is useful 9 %[+ t tight bodies may be fitt$ to ! figure )\t /ays4 ,! heavy roll$ girdle on ! hips is no improvem5t4 ,! dress ( ! ,alg]9e woman1 7,fig4 #ec17 copi$ f ! ,illu/rat$ ,london ,news1 be>s a /rong resemblance to ! ,greek co/ume1 & is v graceful4 ,x is n de=m$ ei!r by ! p9*$ wai/ or ! /ays4 ,9 ! t5? c5tury1 ! ,fr5* co/ume 7,fig4 #eb7 some:at resembl$ t ( ! mod]n ,greeks2 ! =m]1 h[ev]1 _h n ! %ort pelisse1 b1 9 its place1 ! ladies wore a long veil1 :i* cov]$ ! head1 & rea*$ ne>ly to ! feet4 ,! ,greek & ,ori5tal co/ume has always be5 a favorite ) pa9t]s3 ! ,v]non ,gall]y furni%es u ) two illu/rations2 & ! excell5t engrav+s ( ^! subjects 9 ! ,art ,j\rnal enable u to comp>e ! co/umes ( ! two figures :ile at a di/ance f ! orig9als4 ,! graceful figure ( ,! ,greek ,girl1 7engrav$ 9 ! ,art ,j\rnal = #ahej17 pa9t$ by ,sir ,*>les ,ea/lake1 is n compress$ by /ays1 b is easy & natural4 ,! :ite "u-drap]y is conf9$ at ! wai/1 :i* is %ort1 by a broad girdle1 :i* appe>s to encircle x m ?an once1 & adds to ! app>5t l5g? ( ! wai/2 ! op5 jacket1 )\t a coll>1 falls gracefully f ! %\ld]s1 & conceals ! limits ( ! wai/2 e ?+ is easy1 natural1 & graceful4 ,m4 ,de ,/ackelb]g's beautiful figure ( ! ,ar*on's ,wife 7,fig4 #ed7 %[s ! di/rict :5ce ,sir ,c4 ,ea/lake drew 8 model4 ,!re is ! same fl[+ hair1--f :i* hang c>nations1 z 9 ! picture 9 ! ,v]non ,gall]y1--! same cap1 ! same necklace4 ,b 9 ! b>on's figure1 we f9d ! wai/ encircl$ ) a broad b&1 six or sev5 in*es 9 wid?1 :ile ! lady re/s h] h& on ! sa%-l girdle1 :i* falls r\nd ! hips4 ,turn we n[ to ,pick]sgill's ,syrian ,maid1 7engrav$ 9 ! ,art ,j\rnal = #ahej37 "h1 we see1 ! arti/ has tak5 a pa9t]'s lic5se1 & repres5t$ ! fair ,ori5tal 9 /ays1 :i*1 we believe1 are happily unkn[n 9 ! ,ea/4 ,h[ /iff & con/ra9$ does ?is figure appe>1 aft] look+ at ,sir ,c4 ,ea/lake's beautiful ,greek ,girl2 h[ unnatural ! =m ( ! *e/6 ,! limits ( ! wai/ are n visible1 x is true1 9 ! ,syrian ,maid1 b ! %ad[ is s arrang$1 t ! r\nd$ =m1 to :i* we h be=e allud$1 & :i* fa%ion deems necess>y1 is pla9ly p]ceptible2 & an impression is made t ! wai/ is small & p9*$4 ,we c\ld m5tion "s cases 9 :i* ! girdle is omitt$ altoge!r1 )\t any detrim5t to ! gracefulness ( ! figure4 ,su* dresses1 h[ev]1 ?\gh illu/rative ( ! pr9ciple1 are n adapt$ to ! co/ume ( real life4 ,9 sculpture1 h[ev]1 !y frequ5tly occur4 ,we may m5tion ,gibson's /atue ( h] maje/y1 ! female figure 9 ,m',d\gall's ,triumph ( ,love1 & ,p5elope1 by ,wyatt1 :i* are engrav$ 9 ! ,art ,j\rnal1 7! fir/ 9 ! ye> #ahdf1 ! o!rs 9 #ahdi47 ,b ! drap]y ( /atues c1 h[ev]1 sc>cely be tak5 z a prec$5t = t ( ! liv+ subject1 & al?\gh we m5tion t ! girdle is sometimes disp5s$ )1 we are f> f advocat+ ?is 9 practice2 nay1 we consid] ! sa% or girdle is indisp5sable2 all t we /ipulate = is1 t x %\ld n be s tight z to compress ! figure1 or imp$e circulation4 ,9 conclud+ our rem>ks on ?is subject1 we w\ld obs]ve1 t ! be/ means ( improv+ ! figure are to secure fre$om ( motion by ! use ( light & roomy clo?+1 & to /r5g!n ! muscles by ex]cise4 ,we may also obs]ve1 t s++ is n only b5eficial to ! lungs1 b t x /r5g!ns ! muscles1 & increases ! size ( ! *e/1 &1 consequ5tly1 makes ! wai/ appe> small]4 ,s++1 & o!r suitable ex]cises 9 :i* bo? arms are us$ equally1 w improve ! figure m ?an all ! backbo>ds 9 ! _w4 ,,*apt] ,,iii4 ,,! ,,head4 ,!re is no "p ( ! body :i* has be5 m expos$ to ! vicissitudes ( fa%ion ?an ! head1 bo? z reg>ds its natural cov]+ ( hair1 & ! artificial cov]+ ( caps & bonnets4 ,at "o "t1 we read ( spr9kl+ ! hair ) gold du/2 at ano!r "t1 ! bright br[n hair1 ( ! color ( ! horse-*e/nut1 s common 9 ,italian pictures1 0 ! fa%ion4 ,?is color1 z well z t beautiful light gold5 t9t sometimes se5 9 ,italian pictures ( ! same p]iod1 0 frequ5tly ! result ( art1 & receipts = produc+ bo? t9ts are /ill to be f\nd 9 old books ( secreti4 ,bo? ^! 7 9 _! turn disc>d$1 & aft] a "t ! real color ( ! hair 0 lo/ 9 p[d] & pomatum4 ,! improv+ ta/e ( ! pres5t g5]ation is1 p]haps1 n[h]e m conspicu\s ?an 9 p]mitt+ u to pres]ve ! natural color ( ! hair1 & to we> our own1 :e!r x be black1 br[n1 or gray4 ,!re is also a m>k$ improvem5t 9 ! m natural way 9 :i* ! hair has be5 arrang$ dur+ ! la/ ?irty ye>s4 ,we allude1 p>ticul>ly1 to its be+ suff]$ to reta9 ! direction int5d$ by nature1 in/ead ( be+ comb$ upright1 & turn$ ov] a cu%ion a foot or two 9 height4 ,^! head-dresses1 emphatically call$1 f _! ,fr5* orig91 tetes1 7 built or pla/]$ up only once a mon?3 x is easy to imag9e :at a /ate !y mu/ h be5 9 dur+ ! latt] "p ( ! "t4 ,madame ,d',ob]kir* gives1 9 h] ,memoirs1 an amus+ description ( a novel head-dress ( ?is k9d4 ,we transcribe x = ! amusem5t ( our read]s4 ,?is bless$ #f? ( ,june %e awak5$ me at ! e>lie/ dawn4 ,i 0 to get my hair dress$1 & make a gr& toilette1 9 ord] to g to ,v]sailles1 :i!r ! que5 _h invit$ ! ,c\ntess du ,nord1 = ^: amusem5t a com$y 0 to be p]=m$4 ,^! ,c\rt toilettes are nev]-end+1 & ?is road f ,p>is to ,v]sailles v fatigu+1 especially :]e "o is 9 cont9ual fe> ( rumpl+ h] petticoats & fl\nces4 ,i tri$ t day1 = ! fir/ "t1 a new fa%ion--"o1 too1 :i* 0 n a little g5ante4 ,i wore 9 my hair little flat bottles1 %ap$ to ! curvature ( ! head2 into ^! a little wat] 0 p\r$1 = ! purpose ( pres]v+ ! fre%ness ( ! natural fl[]s worn 9 ! hair1 & ( :i* ! /ems 7 imm]s$ 9 ! liquid4 ,?is did n always succe$1 b :5 x did1 ! effect 0 *>m+4 ,no?+ c\ld be m lovely ?an ! floral wrea? cr[n+ ! sn[y pyramid ( p[d]$ hair6 ,few ( our read]s1 we reckon1 are incl9$ to p>ticipate 9 ! admiration ( ! b>oness1 s fancifully express$1 = ?is s+ul> head-dress4 ,we d n presume to ent] into ! "q :e!r %ort curls are m becom+ ?an long ones1 or :e!r b&s are pref]able to curls ( any k9d2 because1 z ! hair ( "s p]sons curls naturally1 :ile t ( o!rs is q /raight1 we consid] t ?is is "o ( ! po9ts :i* mu/ be decid$ accord+ly z "o /yle or ! o!r is f\nd to be mo/ suitable to ! individual4 ,! pr9ciple 9 ! arrangem5t ( ! hair r\nd ! =ehead %\ld be to pres]ve or assi/ ! oval =m ( ! face3 z ?is diff]s 9 diff]5t individuals1 ! treatm5t %\ld be adapt$ accord+ly4 ,! arrangem5t ( ! long hair at ! back ( ! head is a matt] ( ta/e2 z x int]f]es b little ) ! c\nt5ance1 x may be ref]r$ to ! dictates ( fa%ion2 al?\gh 9 ?is1 z 9 e ?+ else1 simplicity 9 ! arrangem5t1 & grace 9 ! direction ( ! l9es1 are ! *ief po9ts to be consid]$4 ,"o ( ! mo/ elegant head-dresses we rememb] to h se51 is t worn by ! peasants ( ! ,milanese & ,tic9ese4 ,!y h almo/ uni=mly glossy1 black hair1 :i* is c>ri$ r\nd ! back ( ! head 9 a wide braid1 9 :i* are plac$1 at regul> int]vals1 long silv] p9s1 ) l>ge heads1 :i* produce ! effect ( a coronet1 & contra/ well ) ! d>k color ( ! hair4 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #f4 ,figure #ee4 ,aft] ,p>megiano4 #ef4 ,titian's daught]4 #eg4 ,lady ,h>r+ton4 #ei4 ,roman peasant4 #fa4 ,gigot sleeves4 ,! examples af=d$ by mod]n sculpture are n v in/ructive1 inasmu* z ! features select$ by ! sculptors are almo/ exclusively ,greek1 :]eas ! v>iety 9 nature is inf9ite4 ,) ! ,greek features has also be5 adopt$ ! antique /yle ( arrang+ ! hair1 :i* is beautifully simple2 t is to say1 x is p>t$ 9 ! front1 & fall+ d[n t[>ds ea* temple1 :ile ! long ends roll$ lightly back f ! face s z to %[ ! l9e :i* sep>ates ! hair f ! =ehead1 or r :]e x seems1 z x 71 to bl5d ) ! fle% t9ts--an arrangem5t :i* assi/s 9 pres]v+ ! oval cont\r ( ! face1 are pass$ ov] ! top ( ! e>1 & loop$ into ! fillet :i* b9ds ! head4 ,! v becom+ arrangem5t ( ! hair 9 ! engrav+1 f a portrait by ,p>megian9o1 7,fig4 #ee17 is an adaptation ( ! antique /yle1 & is rem>kable = its simplicity & grace4 ,n less graceful1 al?\gh m ornam5tal1 is ! arrangem5t ( ! hair 9 ! beautiful figure call$ ,titian's ,daught]4 ,fig4 #ef4 ,9 bo? ^! in/ances1 we obs]ve ! l9e--if l9e x may be call$--:]e ! color ( ! hair bl5ds s h>moni\sly ) ! delicate t9ts ( ! =ehead4 ,! same arrangem5t ( ! hair r\nd ! face may be trac$ 9 ! pictures by ,murillo1 & o!r great ma/]s4 ,sir ,jo%ua ,reynolds has frequ5tly ev9c$ consummate skill 9 ! arrangem5t ( ! hair1 s z to %[ ! l9e :i* divides x f ! =ehead4 ,= "s int]e/+ rem>ks on ?is subject1 we ref] our read]s to an ,essay on ,dress1 republi%$ by ,mr4 ,murray f ! ,qu>t]ly ,review4 ,no?+ c be m graceful ?an ,sir ,jo%ua's mode ( dispos+ ( ! hair :5 he 0 able to foll[ ! dictates ( 8 own good ta/e2 & he des]ves great cr$it = ! skill ) :i* he frequ5tly treat$ ! enorm\s head-dresses :i* 9 8 "t disfigur$ ! heads ( our c\ntrywom54 ,! *>m+ figure ( ,lady ,h>r+ton 7,fig4 #eg7 w\ld h be5 p]fect )\t ! sup]/ructure on h] beautiful head4 ,h[ /iff is ! head-dress ( ! next figure1 7,fig4 #eh17 also1 aft] ,sir ,jo%ua1 :5 comp>$ ) ! prec$+4 ,! graceful ,spani% mantilla1 to :i* we c only allude1 is too elegant to be ov]look$3 ! modification ( x1 :i* ( late ye>s has be5 introduc$ into ?is c\ntry1 is to be consid]$ r z an ornam5t ?an z a head-cov]+4 ,x has be5 rec5tly sup]s$$ by ! long b[s ( ribbon worn at ! back ( ! head--a co/ume borr[$ f ! ,roman peasants4 ,fig4 #ei4 ,! fa%ion = "y p to cov] ! hair ) a silk5 net1 :i*1 "s c5turies ago1 0 preval5t bo? 9 ,engl& & 9 ,france1 has be5 aga9 reviv$4 ,"s ( ! m rec5t ( ^! nets are v elegant 9 =m4 ,! hats & bonnets h1 dur+ ! la/ few ye>s1 be5 s mod]ate 9 size1 & g5]ally s graceful 9 =m1 t we w n criticize !m m p>ticul>ly4 ,x w be suffici5t to obs]ve t1 let ! brim be :at %ape x w1 ! cr[n %\ld be ne>ly ( ! =m & size ( ! head4 ,if ?is pr9ciple 7 always kept 9 view1 z x %\ld be1 we %\ld nev] aga9 see ! mon/] hats & bonnets :i*1 "s ye>s ago1 & ev5 9 ! memory ( p]sons n[ liv+1 c>icatur$ ! lovely =ms ( our c\ntrywom54 ,,*apt] ,,iv4 ,,! ,,dress4 ,we %all consid] ! dress1 by :i* we mean1 simply1 ! upp] g>m5t worn )9 doors1 z consi/+ ( ?ree p>ts--! sleeve1 ! body1 & ! skirt4 ,! sleeve has *ang$ its =m z frequ5tly z any "p ( our habilim5ts3 sometimes x rea*$ to ! wri/1 sometimes to a %ort di/ance bel[ ! %\ld]4 ,sometimes x 0 tight to ! arm2 sometimes x fell 9 volum9\s folds to ! h&s2 n[ x 0 wide/ at ! top1 !n wide/ at ! bottom4 ,to l>ge sleeves !mselves !re is no objection1 9 a pictorial po9t ( view1 provid$ t _! po9t ( junction ) ! %\ld] is s conspicu\s t !y d n add to ! app>5t wid? ( ! body 9 ?is "p4 ,! l9es ( ! sleeves %\ld be fl[+2 & !y are mu* m graceful :5 !y are wide/ 9 ! l[] "p1 especially :5 s op5 z to display to advantage ! beautiful =m ( ! wri/ & =e-arm4 ,9 ?is way1 !y p>take ( ! pyramid1 :ile ! inelegant gigot sleeve1 :i* = s long a p]iod enjoy$ ! favor ( ! ladies1 pres5ts ! =m ( a cone rev]t$1 & is obvi\sly out ( place 9 ! human figure4 ,:5 ! l>ge sleeve1 support$ by canes or :alebones1 =ms a cont9u\s l9e ) ! %\ld]1 x gives an unnatural wid? to ?is "p ( ! figure--an effect t is increas$ by ! l>ge coll> :i* conceals ! po9t :]e ! sleeve meets ! dress4 ,examples ( ! l>ge1 op5 sleeve1 9 its extreme "*1 may be /udi$ ) mo/ advantage 9 ! portraits ( ,v&yck4 ,fig4 #fj1 ,lady ,lucy ,p]cy1 aft] ,v&yck4 ,! effect ( ^! sleeves is frequ5tly improv$ by _! be+ l9$ ) a diff]5t color1 & sometimes by contra/+ ! ri* silk ( ! out] sleeve ) ! ?9 gauze or lace :i* =ms ! imm$iate cov]+ ( ! arm4 ,! figures 9 ! plates w %[ ! comp>ative gracefulness ( two k9ds ( l>ge sleeves1 namely1 t :i* is wide/ at ! top1 & t :i* is wide/ bel[4 ,if ! outl9e ( ! c5tral figure ( our m mod]n gr\p1 7,fig4 #fa17--;consi/+ ( ?ree figures1 :i* is copi$ f a ,fr5* "w1--7 fill$ up ) black1 a p]son ignorant ( ! fa%ion might1 f ! great wid? ( ! %\ld]s1 h mi/ak5 x = ! ,f>nese ,h]cules 9 petticoats4 ,! l>ge sleeves1 tight 9 ! upp] "p1 & enl>g+ gradually to ! wri/1 :i* are worn by ! mod]n ,greeks1 are extremely graceful4 ,:5 ^! are conf9$ bel[ ! elb[1 :i* is sometimes done = conv5i5ce1 !y resemble some:at ! elb[ sleeves ) wide ruffles :i* 7 s common 9 ! "t ( ,sir ,jo%ua ,reynolds4 ,sleeves l ^? n[ worn 9 ,greece 7 fa%ionable 9 ,france 9 ! t5? c5tury1 & aga9 ab\t ! beg9n+ ( ! sixte5? c5tury4 ,!y 7 also worn by ,jeanne d',albret1 ! "m ( ,h5ry ,,iv41 & are se5 9 ,fig4 #da4 ,a v elegant sleeve1 fitt+ ne>ly close at ! %\ld]1 & becom+ v full & long till x falls 9 graceful folds almo/ to ! feet1 prevail$ 9 ,engl& dur+ ! "t ( ,h5ry ,v4 & ,,vi4 ,fig4 #fb1 copi$ f a manuscript ( ! "t ( ,h5ry ,v41 n[ pres]v$ 9 ! ,briti% ,museum4 ,on ! au?ority ( ,pr(essor ,heidel(f1 x is said to h exi/$ also 9 ,fl&]s 9 ! ?irte5? & f\rte5? c5turies1 & 9 ,france 9 ! fifte5? c5tury4 ,9 ! examples ( cont95tal co/ume1 ! t\t ensemble is graceful1 & especially ! head-dress2 :ile 9 ,engl& ! elegant sleeve is accompani$ ) v %ort wai/s1 & ) ! hide\s1 horn$ head-dresses !n fa%ionable4 ,! effect ( ^! sleeves mu* resembles t ( ! mantles ( ! pres5t day1 & f its wide fl[ is only adapt$ = full dress1 or out-(-door co/ume4 ,! sleeves worn "u ^! full ones 7 g5]ally tight4 ,at a mu* lat] p]iod1 ! l>ge sleeves 7 made ( m mod]ate dim5sions1 bo? 9 l5g? & wid?1 & a full sleeve ( f9e lawn or musl91 fa/5$ at ! wri/ ) a b&1 & edg$ ) a lace ruffle1 0 worn b5ea?4 ,?is k9d ( sleeve has rec5tly be5 aga9 introduc$ into ,engl&1 b has giv5 place to ano!r =m1 9 :i* ! "u sleeve ( lace or musl91 be+ ( ! same size z ! upp]1 suff]s ! l[] "p ( ! arm to be visible4 ,! effect ( ?is sleeve1 :i* is c]ta9ly becom+ to a f9ely-=m$ arm1 is analog\s to t ( ! elb[ sleeve1 :i*1 ) its deep ruffles ( po9t lace1 is frequ5t on ! portraits ( ,sir ,jo%ua ,reynolds4 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #g4 ,figure #fc4 ,f ,bonn>d's ,co/umes4 #fd4 ,sancta ,victoria4 #fe4 ,anne1 ,c\ntess ( ,*e/]field1 f ,v&yck4 #fg4 ,woman ( ,m>k9itza4 ,! sla%$ sleeve1 criticiz$ by ,%akspe>e 9 ! ,tam+ ( ! ,%rew1 0 sometimes v elegant4 ,! =m 9 :i* x appe>s 9 ,fig4 #fc1 worn 9 ! fifte5? c5tury1 is p>ticul>ly graceful4 ,n s1 h[ev]1 ! l[] "p ( ! sleeve4 ,9 ! prec$+ rem>ks1 we h consid]$ ! sleeve m]ely 9 a picturesque po9t ( view1 )\t ref]5ce to its conv5i5ce or inconv5i5ce4 ,! l5g? ( ! wai/ has always be5 a matt] ( caprice4 ,sometimes ! girdle 0 plac$ ne>ly "u ! arms2 sometimes x pass$ to ! opposite extreme1 & 0 suff]$ to fall ^u ! hips4 ,sometimes x 0 drawn tightly r\nd ! middle1 :5 x seem$ to cut ! body almo/ 9 two1 l an h\rglass4 ,judg+ f :at we see1 we %\ld say t ?is is a feat :i* _m ladies ( ! pres5t "t are endeavor+ to a*ieve4 ,! fir/ & ?ird cases are almo/ equally objectionable1 because !y di/ort ! figure4 ,! hip girdle1 :i* is common 9 ,greece 7z %[n 9 ,figs4 #dh & #ec7 & ,ori5tal c\ntries1 prevail$ also 9 ,engl& & ,france "s c5turies ago4 ,! m9iatures ( old manuscripts furni% u ) examples ( long-wai/$ dresses fitt+ closely to ! p]son1 sometimes /iff5$ l ! mod]n /ays1 at o!rs yield+ to ! figure4 ,! wai/ ( ?is k9d ( dress rea*$ to ! hips1 :]e x 0 jo9$ to ! full petticoat1 :i* 0 ga!r$ r\nd ! top--an extremely ungraceful fa%ion4 ,! hip girdle1 prop]ly us$1 is1 h[ev]1 by no means inelegant4 ,x is n at all necess>y t x %\ld co9cide ) ! wai/ ( ! dress2 x %\ld be m]ely loop$ or clasp$ loosely r\nd ! figure1 & suff]$ to fall to its place by its own weight4 ,b to enable x to d s 9 a graceful mann]1 x is ess5tial t ! skirt ( ! dress %\ld be s unit$ ) ! body z to produce no h>% l9es ( sep>ation1 or sudd5 *anges ( curvature2 z1 = example1 :5 ! skirt is set on 9 full plaits1 or ga!rs1 & spread ov] a hoop4 ,we h be=e notic$1 t ?is po9t 0 att5d$ to by ,rub5s1 7,fig4 #ff17 by ,v&yck1 7,fig4 #fe17 by ,sir ,jo%ua ,reynolds1 & by ! mod]n ,greeks4 ,we ref] also to ! elegant figure #fd4 ,! mo/ natural situation = ! girdle1 or po9t ( junction ( ! body ) ! skirt1 is some:]e betwe5 ! end ( ! brea/ bone & ! la/ rib1 z se5 9 front--a space ( ab\t ?ree or f\r in*es4 ,fa%ion may dictate ! exact spot1 b )9 ?is space x _c be positively wrong4 ,! effect is good :5 ! :ole space is fill$ ) a wide sa% fold$ r\nd ! wai/1 z 9 ,sir ,c4 ,ea/lake's ,greek ,girl1 or "s ( ! graceful portraits by ,sir ,jo%ua ,reynolds4 ,h[ mu* m elegant is a sa% ( ?is description ?an ! /iff l9e :i* *>act]izes ! upp] "p ( ! dress ( ,sancta ,victoria4 7,fig4 #fd47 ,! :alebone1 or busk1 is absolutely necess>y to keep ! dress 9 its prop] place4 ,! resemblance 9 =m betwe5 ! body ( ! dress ( ?is figure & ^? n[ or rec5tly 9 fa%ion _c fail to arre/ ! att5tion ( ! read]4 ,/iff1 ?\gh1 z x und\bt$ly is1 ! :ole dress is sup]ior to ! mod]n 9 ! g5]al fl[ ( ! l9es unit+ ! body & skirt4 ,long skirts are m graceful ?an %ort ones1 & a tra9 ( mod]ate l5g? adds to ! elegance ( a dress1 b n to its conv5i5ce4 ,long dresses1 also1 add to ! app>5t height ( a figure1 & = ?is reason !y are well adapt$ to %ort p]sons4 ,= ! same reason1 wai/s ( mod]ate l5g? are m g5]ally becom+ ?an ^? t are v long1 because ! latt]1 by %ort5+ ! skirt ( ! dress1 dim9i% ! app>5t height4 ,besides ! v>iation 9 l5g?1 ! skirts ( dresses h pass$ ?r\gh e gradation ( fulness4 ,at "o "t1 x 0 ! fa%ion to slope gradually f ! wai/1 )\t ga!rs or plaits2 !n a little fulness 0 admitt$ at ! back2 !n a little at ! front1 also4 ,! next /ep 0 to c>ry ! fulness all r\nd ! wai/4 ,9 ! graceful co/ume ( ! "t ( ,v&yck1 & ev5 9 ! m /iff & =mal dress del9eat$ 9 ! pictures ( ,rub5s1 ! skirt 0 unit$ to ! body by l>ge1 flat plaits1 :5 ! fulness exp&$ gradually & gracefully1 & ! ri* mat]ial ( ! dress spread 9 well-arrang$ folds to ! feet4 ,! l9es 7 g5tly undulat+ & graceful1 & t unnatural & clumsy contrivance call$ a bu/le--a ne> relation ( ! hoop & f>d+ale--0 at t "t happily unkn[n4 ,?is pr9ciple ( unit+ ! skirt gradually ) ! body ( ! dress is c>ri$ out to ! fulle/ ext5t by ! mod]n ,greeks4 ,9 ! figure ( ! peasant f ! neighborhood ( ,a!ns1 7,fig4 #dg17 ! pelisse is made )\t ga!rs or plaits3 ! skirt1 :i* hangs full r\nd ! knees1 is gor$ or slop$ away till x fits ! body at ! wai/4 ,! long und]skirt is1 z we f9d f ! figure ( ! woman ( ,makr9itza1 7,fig4 #fg17 ga!r$ sev]al times1 s z to lie flat to ! figure1 in/ead ( be+ spread ov] ! inelegant bu/le4 ,x is only necess>y to comp>e ^! graceful figures1 9 :i* due reg>d has be5 paid to ! undulat+ l9es ( ! figure1 ) a fa%ionable lady ( ! pres5t day1 ^: polka jacket1 or :atev] may be ! "n ( ?is article ( dress1 is cut ) viol5t & deep curves1 to enable x to spread itself ov] ! bu/le & prom95t folds ( ! dress4 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #h4 ,figure #fj4 ,lady ,lucy ,p]cy1 f ,v&yck4 #fi1 #gj4 ,by ,jules ,david1 9 ,le ,moniteur de la ,mode4 #fh4 ,! hoop1 aft] ,hog>?4 ,n satisfi$ ) ! bu/le 9 ! upp] "p ( ! skirt1 "s ladies ( ! pres5t day h return$ to ! old practice ( we>+ hoops1 to make ! dresses /& out at ! base4 ,^! are easily recogniz$ 9 ! /reet by ! swagg+--no o!r t]m w exactly convey ! idea--f side to side ( ! hoops1 an effect :i* is di/9ctly visible z ! we>] walks along4 ,x is difficult to imag9e :at !re is s attractive 9 ! f>d+ale & hoop1 t !y %\ld h prevail$1 9 "s =m or o!r1 = s _m ye>s1 & t !y %\ld h ma9ta9$ _! gr\nd 9 spite ( ! cutt+1 ?\gh playful1 raill]y ( ! ,spectator1 & ! je]s & c>icatures ( less ref9$ c5sors ( ! ecc5tricities ( dress4 ,!y 7 n recomm5d$ ei!r by beauty ( l9e or conv5i5ce1 b by ! tyrant ,fa%ion1 & we owe "s gratitude to ,george ,,iv41 :o bani%$ ! la/ relics ( ?is s+ul> fa%ion f ! c\rt dress1 ( :i*1 until 8 "t1 x cont9u$ to =m a "p4 ,:o c\ld imag9e t !re w\ld be an attempt to revive ! hoop petticoat 9 ! n9ete5? c5tury8 ,we invite our read]s to contra/ ! l9es ( ! drap]y 9 ! figures aft] ,v&yck1 7,figs4 #fj & #fa17 & ^? 9 ! mod]n ,greek co/ume1 7,figs4 #ea & #ed17 ) t ( a lady 9 a hoop1 aft] a satirical pa9t]1 ,hog>?1 7,fig4 #fh17 & two figures f a design by ,jules ,david1 9 ,le ,moniteur de la ,mode1 a mod]n fa%ionable au?ority 9 dress4 7,figs4 #fi & #gj47 ,!re c be no d\bt :i* is ! mo/ graceful4 ,! wid? ( ! %\ld]s & ! tight wai/ ( ! latt]1 w n escape ! notice ( our read]s4 ,,*apt] ,v4 ,,! ,,feet4 ,! same bad ta/e :i* insi/s ^u a small wai/1 let ! height & proportions ( ! figure be :at !y w1 decrees t a small foot is ess5tial to beauty4 ,size is consid]$ ( m importance ?an =m2 & ju/ly s if x is a s9e qua non t ! foot mu/ be small1 because ! ef=ts t are made to dim9i% its size g5]ally r5d] x de=m$4 ,we h be=e m5tion$ t to endeavor to dim9i% ! size ( ! human body 9 a p>ticul> "p1 is l ty+ a /r+ r\nd ! middle ( a pill[2 x only makes x l>g] at ! extremities4 ,x is s ) ! wai/1 x is s ) ! foot4 ,if x be crippl$ 9 l5g?1 or 9 wid? across ! toes1 x spreads ov] ! in/ep & sides4 ,! ,italians & o!r nations ( ! s\? ( ,europe h small] h&s & feet ?an ! ,anglo-,saxons2 & z ?is fact is g5]ally kn[n1 x is a/oni%+ t p ( s5se %\ld p]si/ 9 crippl+ !mselves m]ely = ! reputation ( hav+ small feet4 ,"h aga9 we h to compla9 ( poets & romance writ]s2 ladies w\ld n h p9*$ _! feet into small %oes1 if ^! wor?ies _h n sung ! praises ( t9y feet4 ,h] feet1 b5ea? h] petticoat1 ,l little mice1 /ole 9 & out1 ,z if !y fe>$ ! light4 ,nor are pa9t]s--portrait pa9t]s1 we mean1 & liv+ ones too--x is ne$less h[ev]1 to m5tion names--entirely free f blame = ?us m9i/]+ to vanity & false ta/e4 ,!y h sacrific$ tru? to fa%ion 9 pa9t+ ! feet small] ?an !y c\ld possibly be 9 nature4 ,b x is n only ) ! endeavor to cripple _! dim5sions t we are incl9$ to qu>rel4 ,we object 9 toto to ! %ape ( ! %oe1 :i* be>s b little resemblance to t ( ! foot4 ,we h he>d p]sons say t !y c\ld nev] see any beauty 9 a foot4 ,no wond]1 :5 !y saw none b ^? t 7 de=m$ by corns & bunions4 ,h[ unlike is su* a foot to ! beautiful little--= little x really is 9 ?is case--fat foot ( a *ild1 be=e its beauty has be5 spoil$ by %oes1 or ev5 to ^? ( ! b>efoot$ *ildr5 "o sees s frequ5tly 9 ! /reet4 ,7 x n = ^! opportunities ( see+ nature we1 9 ?is c\ntry1 %\ld h b little idea ( ! true %ape ( ! human foot1 except :at we le>n f /atues4 ,accord+ to a rec5t travell]1 we mu/ g to ,egypt to see beautiful feet4 ,x is impossible1 he says1 to see any ?+ m exquisite ?an ! feet & h&s ( ! female peasants4 ,! same beauty is conspicu\s 9 ! ,h9doo wom54 ,let u comp>e n[ ! %ape ( ! foot ) t ( ! sole ( a %oe4 ,:5 ! foot is plac$ on ! gr\nd1 ! toes spread out1 ! great toe is 9 a /raight l9e ) ! inn] side ( ! foot1 & !re is an op5+ betwe5 ?is & ! second toe4 ,! anci5ts avail$ !mselves ( ?is op5+ to pass ?r\gh x "o ( ! /raps t susp5d$ ! s&al4 ,! mod]ns on ! contr>y press ! toes closely toge!r1 9 ord] to conf9e !m )9 ! limits ( ! %oe2 ! consequ5ce is1 t ! end ( ! great toe is press$ t[>ds ! o!rs1 & out ( ! /raight l9e1 ! jo9t becomes enl>g$1 & ?us ! f\ndation is laid = a bunion2 :ile ! toes1 =c$ "o ^u ano!r1 become di/ort$ & cov]$ ) corns4 ,"o ( ! consequ5ces ( ?is imprisonm5t ( our toes is1 t1 f be+ squeez$ s closely toge!r1 !y become useless4 ,let any "o try ! exp]im5t ( walk+ b>efoot$ across ! room1 & :ile s do+ look at ! foot4 ,! toes1 :5 unfett]$ by ! %oes1 spread out & divide f "o ano!r1 & ! body re/s on a wid] & firm] base4 ,we beg9 to f9d we h "s movem5t 9 our toes2 yet1 h[ feeble is _! muscul> p[]1 comp>$ ) t ( p]sons :o are unaccu/om$ to ! use ( %oes6 ,! ,h9doo uses 8 toes 9 weav+2 ! ,au/ralian savage is z h&y 7if ! t]m c be appli$ to feet7 ) ?is memb]1 z ano!r man is ) 8 h&s2 x is ! unsuspect$ in/rum5t ) :i* he executes 8 !fts4 ,! c\ntry boy1 :o runs ov] ! ro( ( a h\se l a cat1 takes (f 8 %oes be=e he attempts ! haz>d\s exp]im5t2 he has a sur] hold ) 8 foot on ! smoo? slates & slop+ ro(4 ,! ex]cise ( ! muscles ( ! foot has ! effect ( increas+ ! p[] ( ^? ( ! calf ( ! leg2 & ! ?9n] ! sole1 & ! m pliant ! mat]ials ( :i* ! %oe is made1 ! m ! p[] is develop$4 ,danc+ ma/]s1 :o habitually we> ?9 %oes1 h ! muscles ( ! leg well develop$1 :ile pl\ghm51 :o we> %oes ) soles an in* ?ick1 h v little calf to _! leg4 ,! ,fr5* sabot is1 we consid]1 bett] ?an ! closely fitt+ %oe ( our c\ntry p2 because x is s l>ge1 t x requires "s muscul> ex]tion to keep x 9 its place4 ,we h frequ5tly se5 ,fr5* boys runn+ 9 sabots1 ! foot ris+ at e /ep almo/ out ( ! unyield+ wood5 %oe4 ,wood5 clogs & patt5s are z bad z ! ?ick %oes ( ! c\ntry p4 ,:5 clogs are necess>y1 ! sole %\ld be made ( mat]ials :i* w yield to ! motion ( ! foot4 ,! ,am]ican ,indian's moccas9s are a mu* bett] cov]+ = ! foot ?an our %oes4 ,if ?ick soles are objectionable by imp$+ ! free movem5t ( ! limb1 :at %all we say to ! high heel :i* 0 once s popul>1 & :i* ?reat5s aga9 to come into fa%ion8 ,x is to be hop$1 h[ev]1 :5 ! effects ( we>+ high heels are duly consid]$1 t ?is p]nici\s cu/om w n make progress4 ,x is well = _! poor un=tunate vot>ies1 t ! introduction ( c]ta9 fa%ions is gradual2 t bo? m9d & body--p]haps we %\ld be m correct 9 say+ ! p]son ( ! we>] & ! eye ( ! spectator--are1 /ep by /ep1 prep>$ = ! extreme po9t :i* c]ta9 fa%ions atta92 !y h _! rise1 _! culm9at+ po9t1 & _! decl9e4 ,! attempt to ex*ange ! %ort wai/s1 worn "s ?irty or =ty ye>s ago1 = ! v long wai/s se5 dur+ ! pa/ ye>1 w\ld h be5 unsuccessful2 ! transition w\ld h be5 too great--too viol5t2 ! *ange 0 effect$1 b x 0 ! "w ( _m ye>s4 ,! same ?+ took place ) reg>d to ! high head-dresses :i* 7 s des]v$ly ridicul$ by ,addison1 & 9 an equally m>k$ degree ) respect to high heels4 ,! %oes 9 ! cut1 aft] ,ga9sbor\gh1 7,fig4 #ga17 are fair specim5s ( :at 7 9 fa%ion 9 8 "t4 ,let ! read] comp>e ! l9e ( ! sole ) t ( ! human foot plac$1 z nature int5d$ x1 flat on ! gr\nd4 ,! heel 0 9 "s cases f\r & a half in*es high2 ! l9e1 !re=e1 mu/ h be5 9 ?is case1 a highly incl9$ plane1 undulat+ 9 its surface1 l ! l9e ( beauty ( ,hog>?4 ,! position ( ! foot is t ( a danc] re/+ on ! toes1 except+ t ! heel is support$1 & ! /ra9 ov] ! in/ep & contraction ( ! muscles ( ! back ( ! leg & heel mu/ be consid]able2 s mu* s we are told1 t ! contraction ( ! latt] becomes habitual2 consequ5tly1 ^? p]sons :o h accu/om$ !mselves to ! use ( high heels1 are nev] aft]w>ds able to d )\t !m4 ,x is said t pride nev] feels pa92 we %\ld ?9k ! prov]b 0 made = ^? :o we> high heels1 = we are told1 al?\gh we _c speak f p]sonal exp]i5ce1 t ! pa9 on fir/ we>+ %oes ( ?is k9d1 9 :i* ! :ole weight ( ! body seems to ?ru/ ! toes =w>d into ! %oe1 is excruciat+2 no?+ b fa%ion c\ld reconcile "o to su* volunt>y suff]+4 ,! peas 9 ! %oes ( ! pilgrims c\ld sc>cely be m pa9ful4 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #i4 ,figure #ff4 ,f ,rub5s's ,desc5t f ! ,cross4 #ga4 ,f a draw+ by ,ga9sbor\gh4 #gb4 ,woman ( ,myconia4 #gd4 ,que5 ,anne4 ,x 0 ) "s surprise t we f\nd among ,m4 ,/ackelb]g's graceful co/umes ( mod]n ,greece a pair ( high-heel$ %oes1 7,fig4 #gb17 :i* might rival 9 ugl9ess & inconv5i5ce any ( ^? worn 9 ,engl&4 ,we h kn[n an in/ance :]e ! lady's heels 7 nev] less ?an an in* & a half high4 ,we 7 sorry to obs]ve "s ( ^! high-heel$ %oes 9 ! great exhibition1 & /ill m s1 to see t %oes ) heels an in* high are likely to be fa%ionable ?is season4 ,c\ld we look =w>d to ?is height z ! limit ( ! fa%ion1 we might reconcile ourselves to x = a "t2 b1 judg+ f pa/ exp]i5ce1 !re is reason to fe> t ! heel w become cont9ually high]1 until x atta9s ! elevation ( =m] ye>s4 ,n cont5t ) imprison+ our feet 9 tight %oes1 & !reby di/ort+ _! =m & weak5+ _! muscul> p[]1 we are guilty ( ano!r viol5ce t[>ds nature4 ,nature has made our toes to turn inw>ds2 :5 man is left to himself ! toes naturally take ?is direction1 ?\gh 9 a mu* less degree ?an 9 ! infant4 ,! ,am]ican ,indian w trace a ,european by 8 footpr9ts1 :i* he detects by ! turn+ out ( ! toes2 a lesson we are taught 9 our *ildhood1 & especially by our danc+ ma/]4 ,sir ,jo%ua ,reynolds us$ to say1 ,! ge/ures ( *ildr51 be+ all dictat$ by nature1 are graceful2 affectation & di/ortion come 9 ) ! danc+ ma/]4 ,n[1 obs]ve ! consequ5ce ( turn+ out ! toes4 ,! inn] ankle is b5t d[nw>ds t[>ds ! gr\nd1 & ! knees are drawn inw>ds1 produc+ ! de=mity call$ knock-kne$2 ?us ! :ole limb is di/ort$1 & consequ5tly weak5$2 !re is always a want ( muscul> p[] 9 ! legs ( ^? :o turn _! toes v mu* outw>ds4 ,x mu/ be rem>k$1 h[ev]1 t wom51 f ! great] bread? ( ! frame at ! hips1 naturally turn ! toes out m ?an m54 ,9 ?is po9t also1 /atues may be /udi$ ) advantage4 ,:]e =m only is consid]$1 x is g5]ally saf] to ref] to examples ( sculpture ?an pa9t+2 because 9 ! latt]1 ! arti/ is apt to lose sight ( ?is prim>y object 9 8 att5tion to color & =m2 besides1 x is ! sculptor only1 :o makes an exact image ( a figure :i* is equally p]fect1 se5 f all po9ts ( view4 ,! pa9t] makes only a pictorial or p]spective repres5tation ( nature1 z se5 f "o po9t ( view only4 ,:at pa9s we take to di/ort & disfigure ! beautiful =m t nature has be/[$ ^u ! human race6 ,n[ build+ a t[] on ! head1 !n rais+ ! heel at ! exp5se ( ! toe2 at "o "t conf9+ ! body 9 a case ( :alebone1 & compress+ x at ! wai/ l an h\r glass2 at ano!r1 surr\nd+ x ) ! enorm\s & ungraceful hoop1 till ! outl9e ( ! figure is s alt]$1 t a p]son c sc>cely recognize h] own %ad[ z t ( a human be+4 ,,*apt] ,,vi4 ,,rem>ks ,,on ,,p>ticul> ,,co/umes4 ,we mu/ n[ (f] a few brief rem>ks ^u c]ta9 co/umes :i* appe> to u mo/ wor?y ( our att5tion & /udy1 = _! g5]al elegance & adaptation to ! figure4 ,( ! mod]n ,greek we h already spok54 ,! /yle ( dress :i* has be5 immortaliz$ by ! p5cil ( ,v&yck is consid]$ among ! mo/ elegant t has ev] prevail$ 9 ?is c\ntry4 ,x is n1 h[ev]1 faultless4 ,! r[ ( small curls ar\nd ! face1 h[ev] becom+ to "s p]sons1 is some:at =mal2 & al?\gh ! g5]al arrangem5t ( ! hair1 :i* pres]ves ! natural size & %ape ( ! head1 is m graceful ?an t ( ! "t ( ,sir ,jo%ua ,reynolds1 we ?9k x w\ld h be5 m pleas+ _h x left visible ! l9e :i* divides ! hair f ! =ehead4 ,) reg>d to ! dress itself1 x is app>5t1 9 ! fir/ place1 t ! figures are spoil$ by /ays2 secondly1 t ! dress is cut too l[ 9 front2 & ?irdly1 t ! l>ge sleeves sometimes give too great wid? 9 front to ! %\ld]s4 ,^! defects are1 9 "s degree1 c\nt]balanc$ by ! graceful fl[ ( ! ample drap]y1 & ( ! l>ge sleeves1 :i* are frequ5tly wide/ at _! l[] "p1 & by ! g5tly undulat+ l9e :i* unites ! wai/ ( ! dress ) ! skirt4 ,! ,v&yck dress1 ) its volum9\s folds1 is1 h[ev]1 m appropriate to ! inhabitants ( palaces1 ?an to ! ord9>y occupants ( ?is work+-day _w4 ,! drap]y is too wide & fl[+ = conv5i5ce4 ,! annex$ cut1 7,fig4 #gc17 repres5t+ ,*>lotte de la ,trem\ille1 ! celebrat$ ,c\ntess ( ,d]by1 exhibits "s ( ! defects & _m ( ! beauties ( ! ,v&yck dress4 ,lely's half-dress$ figures may be pass$ ov] )\t comm5t2 !y are drap$1 n dress$4 ,knell]'s are m in/ructive on ! subject ( co/ume4 ,! dress ( ,que5 ,anne1 7,fig4 #gd17 9 ,knell]'s portrait1 is graceful & easy4 ,! co/ume is a k9d ( transition betwe5 ! ,v&yck & ,reynolds /yle4 ,! sleeves are small] at ! %\ld] ?an 9 ! =m]1 & l>g] at ! l[] "p ?an 9 ! latt]2 9 fact1 !y resemble ^? n[ worn by ! mod]n ,greeks4 ,! dress is cut high] r\nd ! bu/1 & is long] 9 ! wai/ ?an ! ,v&ycks1 :ile ! undulat+ l9e unit+ ! body & skirt is /ill pres]v$4 ,:ile su* good examples 7 set by ! pa9t]s--:o 7 n1 h[ev]1 ! inv5tors ( ! fa%ions !y pa9t$--x is a/oni%+ t ^! graceful /yles ( dress %\ld h be5 sup]s$$ 9 real life by ! l(ty head-dresses & prepo/]\s fa%ions :i* prevail$ dur+ ! same p]iod & long aft]w>ds1 & :i* ev5 ! ironical & sev]e rem>ks ( ,addison1 9 ! ,spectator1 7 unable to bani% f ! circles ( fa%ion4 ,speak+ ( ! dresses ( ladies dur+ ! reigns ( ,james ,,ii4 & ,william ,,iii41 ,mr4 ,plan*e1 9 8 ,hi/ory ( ,briti% ,co/umes1 says1 ,! t[] or commode 0 /ill worn1 & ! g[ns & petticoats fl\nc$ & furbel[$1 s t e "p ( ! g>m5t 0 9 curl2 & a lady ( fa%ion look$ l "o ( ^? animals1 says ! ,spectator1 :i* 9 ! c\ntry we call a ,friesl& h54 ,b 9 #agaa we f9d ,mr4 ,addison rem>k+1 ,! :ole sex is n[ dw>f$ & %runk into a race ( beauties t seems almo/ ano!r species4 ,i rememb] sev]al ladies :o 7 once ne>ly sev5 foot high1 t at pres5t want "s in*es ( five4 ,h[ !y come to be ?us curtail$ ,i _c le>n2 :e!r ! :ole sex be at pres5t "u any p5ance :i* we "k no?+ (1 or :e!r !y h ca/ _! head-dresses 9 ord] to surprise u ) some?+ 9 t k9d :i* %all be entirely new3 ?\gh ,i f9d mo/ are ( op9ion !y are at pres5t l trees lopp$ & prun$1 t w c]ta9ly spr\t up & fl\ri% ) great] heads ?an be=e4 ,! co/ume ( ! "t ( ,sir ,jo%ua ,reynolds1 z treat$ by ?is great arti/1 ?\gh less spl5did1 appe>s to u1 ) ! exception ( ! head-dress1 ne>ly z graceful1 & f> m conv5i5t ?an ! ,v&yck dress4 ,x is m mode/1 m easy1 & bett] adapt$ to %[ ! true =m ( ! %\ld]s1 :ile ! union ( ! body ( ! dress ) ! skirt is effect$ 9 ! same graceful mann] z 9 ! ,v&yck portraits4 ,! mat]ials ( ! drap]y 9 ! latt] are g5]ally silks & sat9s2 ( ! =m]1 x is frequ5tly musl9 & /uff ( a s(t texture1 :i* cl+s m closely to ! =m4 ,t mu* ( ! elegance ( bo? /yles ( dress is to be attribut$ to ! skill & good ta/e ( ! pa9t]s1 is evid5t f an exam9ation ( portraits by contempor>y arti/s4 ,mu* also may be ascrib$ to ! ta/e ( ! we>]4 ,!re are "s p :o1 ?\gh habit$ 9 ! be/ & ri*e/ clo!s1 nev] appe> well dress$2 _! g>m5ts1 rumpl$ & untidy1 look z if !y _h be5 pit*$ on !m1 l hay1 ) a =k2 :ile o!rs1 ^: dress consi/s ( ! mo/ homely mat]ials1 appe> well dress$1 f ! neatness & ta/e ) :i* _! clo!s are arrang$4 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #aj4 ,figure #gc4 ,*>lotte de la ,trem\ille4 #ge4 ,aft] ,ga9sbor\gh4 #gf4 ,aft] ,ga9sbor\gh4 #gg4 ,co/ume ( ,mrs4 ,bloom]4 ,_m ( ! co/umes ( ,ga9sbor\gh's portraits are elegant & graceful1 ) ! frequ5t exception ( ! extravagant head-dress & ! high-heel$ %oes4 ,! easy & v pleas+ figure1 7,fig4 #ge17 aft] ?is accompli%$ arti/1 is n exempt f ! above defects4 ,9 our next illu/ration1 7,fig4 #gf17 ,ga9sbor\gh has n be5 s happy4 ,! lady is almo/ lo/ 9 h] volum9\s & flutt]+ drap]y1 & ! di%evell$ hair & ! enorm\s hat give to ! figure mu* ( ! appe>ance ( a c>icature4 ,leav+ n[ ! caprices ( fa%ion1 we mu/ notice a class ( p]sons :o1 f a religi\s motive1 h resi/$ = two hundr$ ye>s ! tyranny ( fa%ion1 &1 until rec5tly1 h transmitt$ ! same =m ( dress f "m to daught] = ne>ly ! same p]iod ( ye>s4 ,! ladies ( ! ,society ( ,fri5ds1 or1 z !y are usually call$1 ,quak]s1 are /ill di/+ui%$ by ! simplicity & neatness ( _! dress--! quiet drabs & br[ns ( :i* frequ5tly contra/ ) ! ri*ness ( ! mat]ial--& by ! abs5ce ( all ornam5t & fripp]y4 ,e "p ( _! dress is useful & conv5i5t2 x has nei!r frills1 nor fl\nces1 nor trimm+s to c>ry ! dirt & get %abby be=e ! dress itself1 nor wide sleeves to dip 9 ! plates & lap up ! gravy & sauces1 nor artificial fl[]s1 nor b[s ( ribbons4 ,! dress is long en\gh = dec5cy1 b n s long z to sweep ! /reets1 z _m dresses & %awls are daily se5 to d4 ,"s few ye>s back ! ,quak] ladies might h be5 reproa*$ ) adh]+ to ! lett]1 :ile !y reject$ ! _s1 ( _! code ( dress by adh]+ too lit]ally to ! co/ume h&$ d[n to !m4 ,! cr[ns ( _! caps 7 =m]ly made v high1 & = ?is reason x 0 necess>y t ! cr[ns ( _! bonnets %\ld be high en\gh to admit ! cap cr[n2 h5ce ! peculi>ly ugly & rem>kable =m ( ?is "p ( ! dress4 ,! cr[n ( ! cap has1 h[ev]1 rec5tly be5 l[]$1 & ! ,quak] ladies1 ) mu* good s5se1 h n only modifi$ ! =m ( _! bonnets1 b h also adopt$ ! /raw & drawn silk bonnet 9 _! mo/ simple =ms4 ,9 ! /yle ( _! dress1 also1 !y occasionally approa* s ne> ! fa%ions g5]ally worn1 t !y are no long] di/+ui%able by ! s+ul>ity ( _! dress1 b by its simplicity & *a/5ess4 ,we v5ture n[ to devote a few words to ! ,bloom] co/ume1 7,fig4 #gg17 al?\gh we are aw>e t we are tread+ on t5d] gr\nd1 especially z ! co/ume involves a sudd5 & complete *ange 9 ! dress4 ,indep5d5tly ( its m]its or dem]its1 !re are sev]al reasons :y x did n succe$ 9 ?is c\ntry4 ,9 ! fir/ place1 z we h be=e obs]v$1 x orig9at$ 9 ,am]ica1 & 0 attempt$ to be introduc$ ?r\gh ! middle ranks4 ,9 ! second place1 ! *ange :i* x endeavor$ to effect 0 too sudd54 ,_h ! alt]ation comm5c$ ) ! high] classes1 & ! *ange be5 effect$ gradually1 its success might possibly h be5 diff]5t4 ,?irdly1 ! l>ge hat1 s well adapt$ to ! burn+ sun ( ,am]ica1 0 unnecess>y1 & rem>kable :5 =m+ a "p ( ! co/ume ( adult ladies 9 ?is c\ntry1 al?\gh we h se5 t hats q z l>ge 7 worn dur+ ! "t ( ,ga9sbor\gh4 ,ano!r reason = ! ill success ( ! ,bloom] co/ume is to be f\nd 9 ! gl>+ & frequ5tly ill-assort$ colors ( ! pr9ts ( x1 :i* 7 e :]e expos$ 9 ! %op w9d[s4 ,by _m sob]-m9d$ p]sons1 ! l>ge hat & gl>+ colors 7 look$ ^u z integral p>ts ( ! co/ume4 ,! num]\s c>icatures also1 & ! injudici\s attempts to make x popul> by gett+ up ,bloom] ,balls1 contribut$ to r5d] ! co/ume ridicul\s & unpopul>4 ,sett+ aside ! hat1 ! di/+ui%+ *>act]i/ics ( ! co/ume are ! %ort dress1 & a polka jacket fitt+ ! body at ! ?roat & %\ld]s1 & conf9$ at ! wai/ by a silk5 sa%1 & ! tr\s]s fa/5$ by a b& r\nd ! ankle1 & f9i%$ (f ) a frill4 ,on ! score ( mode/y !re c be no objection to ! dress1 s9ce ! :ole ( ! body is cov]$4 ,on ! gr\nd ( conv5i5ce x recomm5ds itself to ^? :o1 hav+ ! sup]9t5d5ce ( a family1 are oblig$ frequ5tly to g up & d[n /airs1 on :i* occasions x is always necess>y to raise ! dress be=e or beh9d1 accord+ to circum/ances4 ,! objection to ! tr\s]s is n to ?is article ( dress be+ worn1 s9ce t is a g5]al practice1 b to _! be+ se54 ,yet we suspect few ladies w\ld object on ?is acc\nt to appe> at a fancy ball 9 ! ,turki% co/ume4 ,! disadvantages ( ! dress are its novelty--= we seldom l a fa%ion to :i* we are entirely unaccu/om$--& ! exposure :i* x involves ( ! foot1 ! %ape ( :i*1 9 ?is c\ntry1 is s frequ5tly di/ort$ by we>+ tight %oes ( a diff]5t %ape f ! foot4 ,! %ort dress is objectionable 9 ano!r po9t ( view1 because1 z %ort petticoats dim9i% ! app>5t height ( ! p]son1 none b ^? :o possess tall & elegant figures w look well 9 ?is co/ume2 & appe>ance is g5]ally suff]$ to prevail ov] utility & conv5i5ce4 ,if to ! ,bloom] co/ume _h be5 add$ ! long "u-dress ( ! ,greek wom51 or _h ! tr\s]s be5 z full z ^? worn by ! ,turki% & ,ea/ ,indian wom51 ! g5]al effect ( ! dress w\ld h be5 mu* m elegant1 al?\gh p]haps less useful4 ,sett+ aside all consid]ations ( fa%ion1 z we always d 9 look+ at ! fa%ions :i* are gone by1 x 0 impossible = any p]son to d5y t ! ,bloom] co/ume 0 by f> ! mo/ elegant1 ! mo/ mode/1 & ! mo/ conv5i5t4 ,,*apt] ,,vii4 ,,ornam5t--,,economy4 ,ornam5t1 al?\gh n an integral "p ( dress1 is s intimately connect$ ) x1 t we mu/ devote a few words to ! subject4 ,"u ! g5]al t]m ( ornam5t we %all include b[s ( ribbon1 artificial fl[]s1 fea!rs1 jewels1 lace1 fr+es1 & trimm+s ( all k9ds4 ,"s ( ^! articles appe> to be suit$ to "o p]iod ( life1 "s to ano!r4 ,jewels1 = in/ance1 ?\gh suitable = middle age1 seem misplac$ on y\?1 :i* %\ld always be *>act]iz$ by simplicity ( app>el2 :ile fl[]s1 :i* are s peculi>ly adapt$ to y\?1 are unbecom+ to ^? advanc$ 9 ye>s2 9 ! latt] case !re is contra/ )\t h>mony2 x is l unit+ ,may ) ,decemb]4 ,! great pr9ciple to be obs]v$ ) reg>d to ornam5t is1 t x %\ld be appropriate1 & appe> design$ to answ] "s useful purpose4 ,a broo*1 or a b[ ( ribbon1 = in/ance1 %\ld fa/5 "s "p ( ! dress2 a gold *a9 %\ld support a wat* or an eyeglass4 ,trimm+s are useful to m>k ! bord]s or edges ( ! diff]5t p>ts ( ! dress2 & 9 ?is light !y add to ! v>iety1 :ile by _! repetition !y conduce to ! regul>ity ( ! ornam5tation4 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #aa4 ,figure #gh4 ,f ! embroid]y on fig4 #dg1 pl4 #e4 #gi4 ,f ! sleeve ( ! same dress1 above4 #hj4 ,f ! sleeve ( ! pelisse4 #ha4 ,! patt]n embroid]$ f ! wai/ to ! skirt ( ! dress1 fig4 #ea1 pl4 #e4 #hb4 ,! bord] ( ! %awl1 fig4 #ea4 #hc4 ,sleeve ( ! same1 figure #ea4 #hd4 ,design on ! apron1 fig4 #dh1 pl4 #e4 #he4 ,f ! bord] ( ! same dress1 fig4 #dh4 ,ornam5t is s mu* a matt] ( fa%ion1 t beyond ! above rem>ks x sc>cely comes )9 ! scope ( our subject4 ,!re is "o po9t1 h[ev]1 to :i* ! pres5t enc\ragem5t ( works ( design induces u to draw ! att5tion ( our read]s4 ,we h already borr[$ f ! beautiful "w ( ,m4 de ,/ackelb]g1 "s ( ! female figures 9 illu/ration ( our views ) reg>d to dress2 we h n[ to call ! att5tion ( our read]s to ! patt]ns embroid]$ on ! dresses4 ,^! are mo/ly ( classic orig91 & prove t ! desc5dants ( ! ,greeks h /ill suffici5t good ta/e to appreciate & adopt ! designs ( _! glori\s ance/ors4 ,! figures 9 ! plates be+ too small to %[ ! patt]ns1 we h enl>g$ "s ( !m f ! orig9al "w1 9 ord] to %[ ! /yle ( design /ill cultivat$ among ! peasants ( ,greece1 & also because we ?9k ! designs may be appli$ to o!r mat]ials besides dress4 ,"s ( !m appe> n inappropriate to iron "w4 ,:5 w our p be able to %[ designs ( su* elegance8 ,fig4 #gh is an enl>g$ copy ( ! embroid]y on ! robe ( ! peasant f ! environs ( ,a!ns1 7,fig4 #dg47 ,x ext5ds1 z w be se51 half way up ! skirt4 ,fig4 #gi is f ! sleeve ( ! same dress4 ,fig4 #hj is ! patt]n embroid]$ on ! sleeve ( ! pelisse4 ,fig4 #ha is ! patt]n f ! wai/ to ! hem ( ! skirt ( an ,a!nian peasant's dress1 7,fig4 #ea47 ,fig4 #hb is ! bord] to ! %awl2 ,fig4 #hc1 ! sleeve ( ! la/-m5tion$ dress2 ,fig4 #hd1 ! design on ! apron ( ! ,arcadian peasant1 7,fig4 #dh47 ,fig4 #he is ! bord] ( ! same dress4 ,fig4 #hf is ! patt]n r\nd ! hem ( ! long "u-dress ( ! ,a!nian peasant1 7,fig4 #ea27 ,fig4 #hg1 ! bord] ( a %awl1 or some?+ ( ! k9d4 ,fig4 #hh is ano!r example4 ,! brocade dress ( ,sancta ,victoria 7,fig4 #fd7 (f]s a /rik+ contra/ to ! simple elegance ( ! ,greek designs4 ,x is too l>ge = ! purpose to :i* x is employ$1 & n suffici5tly di/9ct2 &1 al?\gh x possesses mu* v>iety1 x is defici5t 9 regul>ity2 & "o ( ! elem5ts ( beauty 9 ornam5tal design1 namely1 repetition1 appe>s to be entirely want+4 ,9 ^! respects1 ! sup]iority ( ! ,greek designs is imm$iately app>5t4 ,!y unite at once symmetry ) regul>ity1 & v>iety ) repetition4 ,illu/ration3 ,pl4 #ab4 ,figure #hf4 ,patt]n r\nd ! hem ( ! long "u dress1 fig4 #ea1 pl4 #e4 #hg1 #hh4 ,bord]s ( %awls4 #hi4 ,infant's dress1 exhibit$ at ! ,_w's ,fair 9 ,london4 #ij1 #ia4 ,f ,le ,moniteur de la ,mode1 by ,jules ,david & ,reville1 publi%$ at ,p>is1 ,london1 ,new ,york1 & ,/4 ,pet]sburg4 ,! exam9ation ( ^! designs sugge/s ! reflection t :5 we h once atta9$ a =m ( dress :i* comb9es ease & elegance ) conv5i5ce1 we %\ld tax our +5uity 9 inv5t+ ornam5tal designs = decorat+ x1 r ?an seek to discov] novel =ms ( dress4 ,! endless v>iety ( textile fabrics :i* our manufactur]s are con/antly produc+1 ! v>iety1 also1 9 ! colors1 w1 ) ! embroid]y patt]ns issu$ by our s*ools ( design1 suffice to appease ! con/ant dem& = novelty1 :i* exi/s 9 an improv+ c\ntry1 )\t *ang+ ! =m ( our co/ume1 unless to adopt o!rs :i* reason & common s5se po9t out z sup]ior to t 9 use4 ,we are told to try all ?+s1 & to hold fa/ to t :i* is good4 ,! maxim is applicable to dress z well z to morals4 ,! subject ( economy 9 dress1 an ess5tial object ) _m p]sons1 n[ claims our att5tion4 ,we v5ture to (f] a few rem>ks on ?is head4 ,our fir/ recomm5dation is to h b few dresses at a "t1 & ^? extremely good4 ,if we h b few dresses1 we we> !m1 & we> !m out :ile !y are 9 fa%ion2 b if we h _m dresses at once1 "s ( !m become q old-fa%ion$ be=e we h done ) !m4 ,if we are ri* en\gh to af=d ! sacrifice1 ! old-fa%ion$ dress is got rid (2 if n1 we mu/ be cont5t to appe> 9 a fa%ion t has long be5 sup]s$$2 & we look z if we _h come out ( ! tombs1 or z if "o ( our ance/ors _h /epp$ out ( h] picture frame1 & aga9 walk$ ! e>?4 ,z to ! economy ( select+ ! be/ mat]ials = dresses1 we argue ?us3 ,e dress mu/ be l9$ & made up1 & we pay z mu* = mak+ & l9+ an inf]ior article1 z we d = "o ( ! be/ quality4 ,n[1 a good silk or m]9o w we> out two bad ones2 !re=e1 "o good dress1 l9+ & mak+1 w co/ less ?an two inf]ior ones1 ) ! exp5ses ( l9+ & mak+ !m4 ,9 po9t ( appe>ance1 also1 !re is no comp>ison betwe5 ! two2 ! good dress w look well to ! la/1 :ile "o ( inf]ior quality w soon look %abby4 ,:5 a good silk dress has become too %abby to be worn long] z a dress1 x becomes1 :5 cut up1 useful = a v>iety ( purposes2 :]eas an inf]ior silk1 or "o purely ornam5tal1 is1 :5 left (f1 good = no?+4 ,pla9 dresses1 t is to say1 ^? ( a s+le color1 & )\t a patt]n1 are m economical z well z m quiet 9 _! appe>ance ?an ^? ( v>i\s colors4 ,!y are also g5]ally less exp5sive1 because some?+ is always paid = ! novelty ( ! fa%ion2 besides1 color$ & figur$ dresses be> ! date on ! face ( !m1 z pla9ly z if x 0 !re 9 pr9t$ *>act]s4 ,! ages ( dress fabrics are kn[n by ! patt]n2 !re=e dresses ( ?is description %\ld be put on z soon z pur*as$1 & worn out at once1 or !y w appe> old-fa%ion$4 ,!re is ano!r reason :y v>i-color$ dresses are less economical ?an o!rs4 ,:]e !re are sev]al colors1 !y may n all be equally fa/1 & if only "o ( !m fades ! dress w lose its beauty4 ,trimm+s are n economical2 besides _! co/ 9 ! fir/ in/ance1 !y become %abby be=e ! dress1 & if remov$1 !y g5]ally leave a m>k :]e !y h be51 & s spoil ! appe>ance ( ! dress4 ,dresses made ( "o k9d ( mat]ial only1 are m durable ?an ^? compos$ ( two2 z1 = in/ance1 ( cotton & silk1 ( cotton & wor/$1 or ( silk & wor/$4 ,:5 ! silk is m]ely ?r[n on ! face ( ! mat]ial1 x soon we>s (f4 ,?is is also ! case 9 ^? wooll5 or cotton goods :i* h a silk5 /ripe4 ,! "q ( economy also ext5ds to colors1 "s ( :i* are mu* m durable ?an o!rs4 ,= ?is we c give no rule1 except t drabs & o!r ,quak] colors1 z !y are frequ5tly call$1 are among/ ! mo/ p]man5t ( all colors4 ,= o!r colors we mu/ take ! ^w ( ! drap]4 ,!re is no d\bt1 h[ev]1 b t ! mo/ durable colors are ! *eape/ 9 ! end4 ,9 ! selection ( colors1 ! exp5se is n always a crit]ion2 some?+ mu/ be paid = fa%ion & novelty1 & p]haps = ! co/ ( ! dye4 ,! newe/ & mo/ exp5sive colors are n always ^? :i* la/ ! longe/4 ,x is n economical to h ! dresses made 9 ! extremity ( ! fa%ion1 because su* soon become rem>kable2 b ! fa%ions %\ld be foll[$ at su* a di/ance1 t ! we>] may n attract ! epi!t ( old-fa%ion$4 ,we conclude ?is "p ( our subject ) a few sugge/ions relative to ! selection ( diff]5t /yles & mat]ials ( dress4 ,! /yle ( dress %\ld be adapt$ to ! age ( ! we>]4 ,z a g5]al rule1 we %\ld say t 9 y\? ! dress %\ld be simple & elegant1 ! ornam5ts be+ fl[]s4 ,9 middle age1 ! dress may be ( ri* mat]ials1 & m spl5did 9 its "*2 jewels are ! appropriate ornam5ts4 ,9 ! decl9e ( life1 ! mat]ials ( :i* ! dress is compos$ may be equally ri*1 b ) less vivaci\s colors3 ! t]ti>ies & brok5 colors are p>ticul>ly suitable1 & ! "* ( ! :ole co/ume %\ld be quiet1 simple1 & dignifi$4 ,! ,fr5*1 ^: ta/e 9 dress is s f> 9 advance ( our own1 say1 t ladies :o are c9quante ans sonnes1 %\ld nei!r we> gay colors1 nor dresses ( slight mat]ials1 fl[]s1 fea!rs1 or mu* jewelry2 t !y %\ld cov] _! hair1 we> high dresses & long sleeves4 ,tall ladies may we> fl\nces & tucks1 b !y are less appropriate = %ort p]sons4 ,z a g5]al rule1 v]tical /ripes make p]sons appe> tall] ?an !y really are1 b horizontal /ripes h a contr>y effect4 ,! latt]1 ,mr4 ,r$grave says1 are n admissible 9 g>m5t fabrics1 s9ce1 cross+ ! p]son1 ! patt]n qu>rels ) all ! motions ( ! human figure1 z well z ) ! =m ( ! long folds 9 ! skirts ( ! g>m5t4 ,= ?is reason1 he cont9ues1 l>ge & pron\nc$ *ecks1 h[ev] fa%ionable1 are (t5 9 bad ta/e1 & int]f]e ) ! graceful arrangem5t ( ! drap]y4 ,is x to %[ _! entire contempt = ! pr9ciples ( design t our manufactur]s introduc$ la/ ye> n only horizontal /ripes ( conspicu\s colors1 b *ecks & plaids ( imm5se size1 z autumnal fa%ions = dress fabrics8 ,we _h hop$ t ! ladies w\ld h %[n ! correctness ( _! ta/e by _! disapproval ( ^! unbecom+ designs1 b ! preval5ce ( ! fa%ion at ! pres5t "t is ano!r evid5ce ( ! triumph ( fa%ion ov] good ta/e4 ,a :ite & light-color$ dress makes ! we>]s appe> l>g]1 :ile a black or d>k dress causes !m to appe> small] ?an !y actually are4 ,a judici\s p]son w1 !re=e1 avail h]self ( ^! kn[n effects1 by adopt+ ! /yle ( dress mo/ suitable to h] /ature4 ,to sum up1 9 a few words1 our impressions on ?is subject1 we %\ld say t ! be/ /yle ( dress is t :i*1 be+ exactly adapt$ to ! climate & ! individual1 is at once mode/1 quiet1 & retir+1 h>moni\s 9 color & decoration1 & ( good mat]ials4 ,we conclude ) ! foll[+ admirable extract f ,tob9's ,honeymoon1 :i* we e>ne/ly recomm5d to ! att5tion ( our fair read]s4 ,i'll h no glitt]+ gewgaws /uck ab\t y ,to /ret* ! gap+ eyes ( idiot wond]1 ,& make m5 />e ^u a piece ( e>?1 ,z on ! />-wr\ght firmam5t--no fea!rs1 ,to wave z /ream]s to y\r vanity2 ,nor cumbr\s silk1 t ) its ru/l+ s\nd ,makes pr\d ! fle% t be>s x4 ,%e's adorn$ ,amply1 t 9 h] husb&'s eye looks lovely-- ,! true/ mirror t an hone/ wife ,c see h] beauty 96 ,julia4 ,i %all obs]ve1 sir4 ,duke4 ,i %\ld l well to see y 9 ! dress ,i la/ pres5t$ y4 ,julia4 ,! blue "o1 sir8 ,duke4 ,no1 love1--! :ite4 ,?us mode/ly attir$1 ,a half-bl[n rose /uck 9 ?y braid$ hair1 ,) no m diamonds ?an ^? eyes are made (1 ,no deep] rubies ?an compose ?y lips1 ,nor pe>ls m preci\s ?an inhabit !m1 ,) ! pure r$ & :ite1 :i* t same h& ,:i* bl5ds ! ra9b[1 m+les 9 ?y *eeks2 ,?is well-proportion$ =m 7?9k n ,i flatt]7 ,9 graceful motion to h>moni\s s\nds1 ,& ?y free tresses danc+ 9 ! w9d1 ,?\'lt fix z mu* obs]vance1 z *a/e dames ,c meet )\t a blu%4 ,we look =w>d hopefully to a day :5 art-education w be ext5d$ to all ranks2 :5 a k ( ! beautiful w be add$ to t ( ! useful2 :5 good ta/e1 bas$ ^u real k & common s5se1 w dictate our fa%ions 9 dress z 9 o!r ?+s4 ,we h s*ools ( art to re=m our ta/e 9 pott]y1 h>dw>e1 & textile fabrics1 n to speak ( ! high] walks ( art1 pa9t+1 sculpture1 & ar*itecture4 ,! h&le ( a jug1 ! /em ( a w9e glass1 ! design = dress silks or lace veils1 w =m ! subjects ( lectures to ! /ud5ts ( ! v>i\s s*ools ( design2 disquisitions are writt5 on ! important "q :e!r ! ornam5tal designs %\ld repres5t ! real =m ( objects1 or only give a conv5tional repres5tation ( !m2 :ile ! /udy ( ! human figure1 ! ma/]piece ( creation1 is totally neglect$1 except by pa9t]s & sculptors4 ,we hope t ! /udy ( =m w be m ext5d$1 t x w be univ]sal1 t x w1 9 fact1 ent] into ! g5]al s*eme ( education1 & t we %all h]eaft] see z mu* pa9s be/[$ 9 improv+ by appropriate co/ume ! figure :i* nature has giv5 u1 z we d n[ 9 di/ort+ x by tight /ays1 n>r[ & high-heel$ %oes1 & all ! o!r de=mities & ecc5tricities ( t _m-fac$ mon/]1 fa%ion4 ,! economy ( ! frame1 & ! means ( pres]v+ x 9 heal? & beauty1 %\ld =m an integral "p ( education4 ,!re c be no true beauty )\t heal?2 & h[ c we hope to secure heal? if we are ignorant ( ! means ( promot+ x1 or if we violate its precepts by adopt+ absurd & p]nici\s fa%ions8 ,surely x is n too mu* to hope t dressmak]s w h]eaft] att5d ! s*ools ( design1 to /udy ! human =m1 & !nce le>n to appreciate its beauties1 & to clo! x ) appropriate dress1 calculat$ to display its beauties to ! greate/ advantage1 & to conceal its defects--! latt] ) ! res]vation we h already notic$4 ,we hope1 also1 t ! %oemak] w le>n to model ! %oe ^u ! true =m ( ! foot4 ,manufactur]s are n[ conv9c$ ( ! importance & utility ( s*ools ( design2 & :e!r ! article h]eaft] to be produc$ be a cup & sauc]1 a f5d]1 a patt]n = a dress1 or = furniture1 = a s]vice ( plate or a diamond ti>a1 x is ?\ght prop] t ! pupil1 z a prelim9>y c\rse t _c be disp5s$ )1 %\ld comm5ce ) ! /udy ( ! human figure4 ,yet is n dress an art-manufacture z well z a cup & sauc]1 or a teabo>d8 ,is !re less skill & tal5t1 less ta/e requir$ to clo! ! =m :i* we are told is made aft] ,god's own image1 ?an to furni% an ap>tm5t8 ,:y %\ld n dressmak]s & tailors att5d ! s*ools ( design1 z well z ^? artisans :o are int5d$ to be employ$ 9 :at are call$ art-manufactures8 ,:y %\ld n %oemak]s be taught ! %ape & movem5ts ( ! foot8 ,if ?is 7 ! case1 we are satisfi$ t an imm$iate & p]man5t improvem5t w\ld be ! consequ5ce 9 our /yle ( dress4 ,w\ld any p]son acqua9t$ ) ! human =m1 & especially ) ! little r\nd =m ( an infant1 h s5t to ! ,great ,exhibition an infant's robe %ap$ l t 9 our cut4 ,fig4 #hi4 ,an infant ) a wai/ gr[+ f9e by degrees & beautifully less6--0 !re ev] su* a de=mity8 ,we believe t _m portrait pa9t]s /ipulate t !y %\ld be all[$ to dictate ! dress1 at lea/ z reg>ds ! arrangem5t ( ! colors1 ( _! sitt]s2 ! reason ( ?is is1 t ! pa9t]'s selection ( dress & color is bas$ ^u ! /udy ( ! figure & complexion ( ! individual1 or ! k ( ! effects ( contra/ & h>mony ( l9es1 tissues1 & colors1 :ile ! models :i* are pres5t$ = 8 imitation too frequ5tly (f] to 8 view a /yle ( dress1 bo? z reg>ds =m & color1 :i* set ! rules ( h>mony at defiance4 ,n[1 only suppose t ! dressmak] _h ! pa9t]'s k ( =m & h>mony ( l9es & colors1 :at a revolution w\ld take place 9 dress8 ,we %\ld no long] see ! tall & ! %ort1 ! sl5d] & ! /\t1 ! br[n & ! fair1 ! old & ! "y1 dress$ alike1 b ! dress w\ld be adapt$ to ! individual2 & we believe t1 7 ! plan ( /udy we recomm5d g5]ally adopt$1 ?is purpose might always be effect$ )\t ! sacrifice ( :at is n[ ! gr& desid]atum 9 dress--novelty4 ,! reasons :y ! art ( dressmak+ has n hi!rto receiv$ ! att5tion :i* x des]ves1 are to be s\ght = 9 ! con/itution ( society4 ,! bran*es ( manufacture :i* require a k ( design1 su* z calico pr9t+1 silk & ribbon weav+1 porcela9 & pott]y1 & h>dw>e manufactures1 are conduct$ on a l>ge scale by m5 ( weal? & tal5t1 :o1 if !y w\ld compete successfully ) rival manufactur]s1 f9d x necess>y to /udy & apply to _! own bus9ess all ! improvem5ts 9 sci5ce1 ) :i* _! int]c\rse ) society gives !m an opportunity ( becom+ acqua9t$4 ,x is q o!rwise ) dressmak+4 ,a woman is at ! head ( e e/abli%m5t ( ?is k9d1 a woman g5]ally ( limit$ education & atta9m5ts1 f :om _c be expect$ ei!r lib]ality ( s5tim5t or enl>g$ views1 b :o possibly possesses "s tact & discrim9ation ( "*1 :i* enables h] to ex]cise a k9d ( dictatorial p[] 9 matt]s ( dress ov] h] cu/om]s2 ^! cu/om]s are sc>cely bett] in=m$ on ! subject ?an h]self4 ,! e>ly life ( ! dressmak] is sp5t 9 a daily r\t9e ( labor ) ! ne$le1 & :5 %e becomes a mi/ress 9 h] turn1 %e exacts f h] assi/ants ! same am\nt ( daily labor t 0 =m]ly expect$ f h]self4 ,"w1 "w1 "w ) ! ne$le f almo/ *ildhood1 9 ! same close room f morn+ to night1 & n unfrequ5tly f night to morn+ also1 is ! ev]la/+ r\t9e ( ! monoton\s life ( ! dressmak]s4 ,!y are work+ = bread1 & h no leisure to att5d to ! improvem5t ( ! m9d1 & ! want ( ?is m5tal cultivation is app>5t 9 ! articles !y produce by _! labor4 ,:5 "o ( ! "y wom5 :o att5ds ^! e/abli%m5ts to le>n ! trade1 ?9ks %e has _h suffici5t exp]i5ce1 %e leaves ! l>ge e/abli%m5t1 & sets up 9 bus9ess on h] own acc\nt4 ,9 ?is new situation %e works equally h>d1 & has1 !re=e1 no "t = improv+ h] m9d or ta/e4 ,( ! want ( ?is1 h[ev]1 %e is n s5sible1 because %e c pur*ase = a trifle all ! newe/ patt]ns1 & ! ?\ght nev] ent]s h] poor little head1 t ! same fa%ion may n suit all h] cu/om]s4 ,?is defective education ( ! dressmak]s1 or r _! want ( k ( ! human =m1 is "o ( ! great causes ( ! preval5ce ( ! old fa%ion ( tight lac+2 x is s mu* easi] to make a closely-fitt+ body suit ov] a tight /ay ?an x is on ! pliant & yield+ natural =m1 9 :i*1 if "o "p be drawn a little too tight1 or ! contr>y1 ! body ( ! dress is ?r[n out ( %ape4 ,suppos+1 on ! o!r h&1 ! fit to be exact1 x is s difficult to keep su* a tight-fitt+ body 9 its place on ! figure )\t secur+ its =m by :alebones1 t x is 9 va9 to expect ! /ays to become obsolete until ! tight-fitt+ bodice is also giv5 up4 ,?is w nev] take place until n only ! ladies :o are to be clo!d1 b ! dressmak]s1 %all make ! human =m _! /udy1 & direct _! ef=ts to set (f _! natural advantages by att5d+ to ! po9ts :i* are _! *>act]i/ic beauties4 ,a long & delicate ?roat1 fall+ %\ld]s1 n too wide f po9t to po9t1 a flat back1 r\nd *e/1 wide hips--^! are ! po9ts :i* %\ld be develop$ by ! dress4 ,:5ce x foll[s1 t e article ( dress :i* %ort5s ! ?roat1 adds height or wid? to ! %\ld]s1 r\ndness to ! back1 or flatness to ! *e/1 mu/ be radically wrong 9 pr9ciple1 & unpleasant & repulsive 9 effect4 ,9 ! same mann]1 :atev] k9d ( dress adds to ! height ( a figure already too tall & ?91 or detracts f ! app>5t height ( ! %ort & /\t1 mu/ be avoid$4 ,^! ?+s %\ld =m ! /udy ( ! dressmak]4 ,z society is n[ con/itut$1 h[ev]1 ! dressmak] has n1 z we h already obs]v$1 leisure to devote to /udies ( ! necessity & importance ( :i* %e is /ill ignorant4 ,! re=m mu/ be begun by ! ladies !mselves4 ,!y mu/ acquire a k ( =m1 & ( ! pr9ciples ( beauty & h>mony1 & s ex]cise a controll+ influ5ce ov] ! dressmak]s4 ,by ?is means1 a bett] ta/e w be creat$1 & ! dressmak]s w at l5g? discov] _! defici5cy 9 c]ta9 guid+ pr9ciples1 & w be driv5 at la/ to resort to simil> /udies4 ,b 9 ?is case a />tl+ difficulty pres5ts itself--! poor dressmak] is at pres5t ov]-work$3 h[ c %e f9d leisure to att5d ! s*ools ( design1 or ev5 pursue1 if %e _h ! ability1 ! necess>y /udies at home8 ,a girl is appr5tic$ to ! trade at ! age ( ?irte5 or f\rte52 %e works at x all h] life1 ris+ e>ly1 & late tak+ re/2 & :at is ! remun]ation ( h] daily toil ( twelve h\rs8 ,eighte5 p5ce1 or at mo/ two %ill+s a day1 ) h] bo>d6#c ,z %e reckons ! value ( ! latt] at a %ill+1 x foll[s1 t ! e>n+s ( a dressmak]1 9 ! be/ p]iod ( h] life1 :o goes out to "w1 c\ld n exce$ fifte5 %ill+s1 or1 at ! mo/1 eighte5 %ill+s a week1 if %e did n--at ! haz>d ( h] heal?1 :i*1 inde$1 is frequ5tly sacrific$--"w at home be=e %e beg9s1 & aft] %e has f9i%$1 h] day's "w abroad4 ,! c>p5t] or h\se pa9t] does n "w h>d]1 or br+ to be> on 8 employm5t great] k1 ?an ! poor dressmak]2 yet he has f\r %ill+s sixp5ce a day1 )\t 8 bo>d1 :ile %e has only :at is equival5t to two %ill+s sixp5ce1 or ?ree %ill+s4 ,:at reason c be assign$ :y a woman's "w1 if equally well done1 %\ld n be z well paid z t ( a man8 ,a satisfactory reason has yet to be giv52 ! fact1 h[ev]1 is indisputable1 t wom5 are n 9 g5]al s well paid = _! labor z m54 #c ,( c\rse x w be und]/ood t ^! are ! ,engli% prices2 b does n ! comp>ison hold good betwe5 male & female labor 9 ?is c\ntry8 ,al?\gh ^! rem>ks arose naturally out ( our subject1 we mu/ n digress too f>4 ,to return to ! dressmak]4 ,if ! h\rs ( labor ( ^! :ite slaves :o toil 9 ! dressmak+ e/abli%m5ts 7 limit$ to t5 or twelve h\rs1 z 9 l>ge factories1 two consequ5ces w\ld foll[3 ! fir/ is1 t m h&s w\ld be employ$1 & ! second1 t ! "y wom5 w\ld h "t to att5d s*ools1 & improve _! m9ds4 ,if !y c\ld also att5d occasional lectures on ! figure1 & on ! h>mony ( color & co/ume ) ref]5ce to dress1 ! be/ effects w\ld foll[4 ,^? dressmak]s :o are ri* en\gh1 &1 we may add1 _m ladies also1 take 9 "s book ( fa%ions ) color$ illu/rations1 & f ?is !y imbibe _! notions ( beauty ( =m & elegance ( co/ume4 ,h[ is x possible1 we w\ld ask1 = ei!r ! dressmak] or ! ladies :o employ !m to acquire j ideas ( =m1 or ( suitable co/ume1 :5 _! eyes are accu/om$ only to behold su* de=m$ & unnatural repres5tations ( ! human figure z ^? 9 ! accompany+ plates8 ,figs4 #ij & #ia4 ,is x any wond] t small wai/s %\ld be admir$1 :5 ! books :i* aspire to be ! h&maids & mirrors ( fa%ion pres5t to _! read]s su* libels on beauty ( =m8 ,n[1 suppose t li?ograph$ draw+s ( co/umes issu$ occasionally f ! s*ools ( design1 is x n reasonable to suppose t1 ) ! k :i* ! /ud5ts h acquir$ ( ! human figure1 ! illu/rations w\ld be m accurate imitations ( nature8 ,an eye accu/om$ to ! /udy ( nature c sc>cely be> to contemplate1 mu* less to imitate1 ! mon/]s ( a deprav$ ta/e :i* disgrace ! diff]5t publications t aspire to make kn[n ! newe/ fa%ions4 ,_m ( ! illu/rations ( ^! publications1 al?\gh ill proportion$1 are execut$ 9 a c]ta9 /yli% mann] :i* takes ) ! un$ucat$1 & ! me*anical execution ( ! figures is also good4 ,?is1 h[ev]1 is s f> f be+ an advantage1 t x only r5d]s !m ! m dang]\s2 l ! song ( ! sir51 !y lead only to evil4 ,we are told t _m ( ! fir/ ,p>isian arti/s d]ive a consid]able "p ( _! income f draw+ ! figures 9 ! ,fr5* books ( fa%ion & co/ume1 & t1 9 ! e>ly "p ( 8 c>e]1 ,horace ,v]net1 ! presid5t ( ! ,fr5* ,academy1 did n disda9 to employ 8 tal5ts 9 ?is way4 ,we _c1 h[ev]1 refra9 f express+ our surprise & hone/ indignation t arti/s ( em95ce1 especially ^? :o1 l ! ,fr5* s*ool1 h a reputation = correct draw+1 & :o mu/1 !re=e1 be s well acqua9t$ ) ! actual z well z ideal proportions ( ! female figure1 %\ld s pro/itute _! tal5ts z to employ !m 9 del9eat+ ! ill-proportion$ figures :i* appe> 9 books ( fa%ions4 ,x is no small aggravation ( _! (f5ce1 9 our eyes1 t ! figures %\ld be drawn 9 su* graceful positions1 & ) ! exception ( ! defective proportions1 ) s mu* skill4 ,^! beauties only make !m m dang]\s2 ! goodness ( _! execution misleads ! un=tunate victims ( _! fasc9ation4 ,:at "y lady1 unacqua9t$ ) ! proportions ( ! figure1 c\ld look on ^! pr9ts ( co/umes & g away )\t ! belief t a small wai/ & foot 7 ess5tial elem5ts ( beauty8 ,s %e goes home f h] dressmak]'s1 looks 9 ! glass1 & n f9d+ h] own wai/ & foot z small z ^? 9 ! books ( fa%ion1 gives h] /ay-lace an extra tight5+ pull1 &1 reg>dless ( corns1 squeezes h] feet into tight %oes1 :i* makes ! in/ep appe> swoll54 ,bo? ! figures 9 our la/ plates 7 orig9ally drawn & engrav$ by ,jules ,david1 & ,reville1 9 ,le ,moniteur de la ,mode1 :i* is publi%$ at ,p>is1 ,london1 ,new ,york1 & ,/4 ,pet]sburg4 ,let our read]s look at ^! figures1 & say :e!r ! mo/ det]m9$ vot>y ( tight lac+ ev] succe$$ 9 compress+ h] wai/ into ! proportions repres5t$ 9 ^! figures4 ,we %\ld l to he> t lectures 7 giv5 occasionally1 by a lady 9 ! female s*ool ( design1 on ! subjects ( =m1 & ( dress 9 its adaptation to =m & to h>mony ( color4 ,we h no d\bt t a lady compet5t to deliv] ^! lectures w readily be f\nd4 ,aft] a c\rse ( ^! lectures1 we d n hesitate to pr$ict t illu/rations ( fa%ion emanat+ f ?is s\rce w\ld be1 9 po9t ( ta/e1 e ?+ t c\ld be desir$4 ,we v5ture to ?9k t ! /ud5ts ( ! female s*ool may be z well & z pr(itably employ$ 9 design+ co/umes1 z 9 inv5t+ patt]ns = cups & sauc]s or bord]s = veils4 ,until "s c\rse1 ( ! nature we h indicat$1 is adopt$1 we _c hope = any p]man5t improvem5t 9 our co/ume4 ,,*apt] ,,viii4 ,,"s ,,?\ghts ,,on ,,*ildr5',s ,,dress4 ,,by ,,mrs4 ,,m]rifield4 ,c any good & suffici5t reason be giv51 said a fri5d1 z we 7 contemplat+ ! happy faces & lively ge/ures ( a p>ty ( boys & girls1 :o1 "o cold1 fro/y ev5+1 7 play+ at ! old game call$ ,i s5t a lett] to my love1 :y1 :5 "o ( ! p>ty picks up ! ball :i* ano!r has ?r[n d[n1 ! boys always /oop1 :ile ! girls 7) ! exception ( "o little rosy girl1 :o is active & supple z ! boys7 inv>iably drop on "o knee8 ,at fir/ we almo/ fanci$ ?is mu/ be a new way ( play+ ! game2 b :5 "o ( ! s5iors ?rew a h&ful ( bonbons among ! *ildr51 & 9 _! eag] scramble to pick up ! tempt+ sweets we obs]v$ ! same respective actions1 namely1 t ! boys /oop$1 :ile ! girls knelt on "o knee1 we began to m$itate on ! cause ( ?is div]sity ( action4 ,a little m obs]vation conv9c$ u t ! girls1 ?\gh equally lively1 7 less free 9 _! movem5t ?an ! boys4 ,we obs]v$1 also1 t e n[ & !n "s ( ! girls /opp$ & hit*$ _! clo!s1 7:i* appe>$ almo/ 9 dang] ( fall+ (f17 ) an awkw>d movem5t1 fir/ ^u "o %\ld]1 & !n on ! o!r1 :ile o!rs j]k$ "o %\ld] upw>ds1 :i* caus$ ! sleeve on t side to s9k ne>ly to ! elb[4 ,n[1 we exclaim$1 we c solve ! problem3 ! diff]5t actions are caus$ by ! diff]5ce 9 ! dress2 let u see :]e ! diff]5ce lies4 ,s we cont9u$ our obs]vations1 & soon f\nd t ! boys 7 all dress$ 9 high dresses up to ! ?roat1 :ile ! b&s :i* encircl$ _! wai/s 7 s loose z m]ely to keep ! dress 9 its place )\t conf9+ x2 9 %ort1 t _! dress did n (f] ! slighte/ re/ra9t on _! fre$om ( movem5t4 ,x 0 o!rwise ) ! girls1 except+ ! little rosy girl be=e m5tion$3 !y 7 dress$ 9 l[ dresses1 & _! %\ld]s 7 s b>e t we involunt>ily ?\ght ( a cat]pill> ca/+ its sk91 & began to fe>1 f ! uneasy movem5t ( _! %\ld]s1 t ! same ?+ might happ5 to ! *ildr51 :5 we obs]v$ t ?is 0 r5d]$ impossible by ! tightness ( ! clo!s ab\t ! wai/4 ,! my/]y 0 n[ cle>$ up2 ! tightness ( ! dress at ! wai/1 :ile x prev5t$ ! *ildr5 f slipp+ %ell1 z x 71 entirely de/roy$ _! fre$om ( movem5t4 ,we c\ld n help contra/+ ^! poor girls--dress$ 9 ! v p9k ( fa%ion1 ) _! b>e %\ld]s1 compress$ wai/s1 & delicate appe>ance--) ! rosy face1 quick & active movem5t1 & ?ick wai/ ( ! little girl be=e allud$ to2 & we sigh$ z we ?\ght t1 induc$ by ! culpable folly or ignorance ( p>5ts1 ,pale decay ,w\ld /eal be=e ! /eps ( "t1 ,& snat* '_!' bloom away4 ,:5ce does x arise1 cont9u$ my fri5d1 t ! boys are clad 9 w>m dresses1 suit$ to ! season1 _! *e/s & arms protect$ f ! w9try air1 & _! feet incas$ 9 wooll5 /ock+s1 :ile ! girls are suff]$ to %iv] at ,*ri/mas 9 musl9 dresses1 ) b>e necks & arms1 & silk or ?9 cotton /ock+s8 ,are !y less susceptible ( cold ?an boys8 ,is _! circulation less languid1 t _! clo!s are s mu* ?9n]8 ,are _! figures bett]1 _! heal? /rong]1 = ! compression ( _! t5d] bodies by /ays8 ,at ?is po9t our cogitations 7 /opp$ by a summons to supp]2 & aft] supp]1 hats & %awls 7 produc$1 & we took our leave4 ,our "y companions1 fatigu$ ) _! ex]tions1 soon fell asleep 9 ! corn]s ( ! c>riage1 & we 7 left to our own m$itations4 ,our ?\ghts once m rev]t$ to ! subject ( *ildr5's dress1 & gradually assum$ ! foll[+ =m3-- ,! subject ( dress1 :i* is s important bo? to our heal? & com=t1 is usually treat$ z a matt] ( fa%ion1 & is regulat$ p>tly by individual fancy1 p>tly by ! dictates ( ! modi/e4 ,fa%ion1 z x applies to ! co/ume ( m51 is1 ) ! exception ( ! hat1 controll$ by conv5i5ce & common s5se2 b ) reg>d to ! dress ( wom5 & *ildr51 nei!r ( ^! consid]ations has any weight4 ,! mo/ extravagant & biz>re arrangem5ts ( =m & colors w meet ) admir]s & imitators1 provid$ !y emanate f a fa%ionable s\rce4 ,! dress ( *ildr51 especially1 appe>s to be exce$+ly fanta/ic 9 its "*1 &1 ) reg>d to t ( girls1 is ill adapt$ to secure ! enjoym5t ( heal? & ! p]fect developm5t ( ! figure4 ,we v5ture to (f] a few rem>ks on ?is highly int]e/+ !me4 ,9 discuss+ ! subject ( *ildr5's dress1 sev]al po9ts pres5t !mselves = our consid]ation1 namely1 fir/1 ! adaptation ( ! co/ume to ! climate1 ! movem5ts1 & heal?ful developm5t ( ! figure2 & secondly1 ! g5]al elegance ( ! habilim5ts1 ! h>mony ( ! colors1 & _! special adaptation to ! age & individual *>act]i/ics ( *ildr54 ,! fir/ are ess5tial conditions2 ! latt]1 ?\gh too frequ5tly treat$ z ! mo/ important1 may1 9 comp>ison ) ! fir/1 be deem$ non-ess5tials4 ,we %all rem>k on ^! subjects 9 ! be=e-m5tion$ ord]4 ,) reg>d to ! adaptation ( ! dress ( *ildr5 to ! climate1 ?is appe>s s evid5t t any obs]vations ^u x might be deem$ almo/ unnecess>y2 yet1 9 practice1 h[ little is x und]/ood6 ,! great object 9 view 9 regulat+ ! w>m? ( ! clo?+1 is to gu>d ! we>] f ! vicissitudes ( ! climate1 & to equalize ! circulation1 :i* is accel]at$ by heat & ret>d$ by cold4 ,*ildr5 are habitually full ( activity1 :i* quick5s ! circulation & produces a det]m9ation to ! sk92 9 o!r words1 causes "s degree ( p]spiration1 & if ?is1 p]spiration be sudd5ly *eck$ by ! application ( cold1 illness 9 "s %ape or o!r is induc$4 ,9 ord] to less5 ?is risk1 ! clo?+ %\ld be light & w>m2 suffici5tly w>m to %ield ! *ild f ! effects ( cold1 b n to elevate greatly ! temp]ature ( ! body4 ,! latt] w\ld only r5d] ! *ild m susceptible ( cold4 ,*ildr5 are1 by "s ov]-c>eful b n judici\s p>5ts1 s burd5$ ) clo!s t "o is surpris$ to f9d !y c move "u ! va/ encumbrance4 ,!re is mu* div]sity ( op9ion among m$ical m5 z to ! propriety ( we>+ flannel next to ! sk94 ,! argum5ts appe> to be 9 favor ( ! practice1 provid$ t ! ?ickness ( ! flannel be proportion$ to ! seasons ( ! ye>4 ,9 w9t] x %\ld be ?ick2 9 summ] x c sc>cely be too ?94 ,flannel is pref]able to l95 or calico1 because1 al?\gh x may be saturat$ ) p]spiration1 x nev] /rikes cold to ! sk92 :]eas l951 "u simil> circum/ances1 always does1 & ! sudd5 application ( cold to ! sk91 :5 w>m$ by ex]cise1 *ecks ! circulation1 & causes illness4 ,p>5ts are frequ5tly guilty ( mu* inconsi/5cy 9 ! clo?+ ( _! *ildr54 ,! *ild1 p]haps1 has delicate lungs2 x mu/1 !re=e1 h w>m clo?+2 s g>m5t aft] g>m5t1 made fa%ionably1 t is to say1 v full & v %ort1 is heap$ "o ^u ! o!r ov] ! *e/ & upp] "p ( ! body1 until ! poor *ild c sc>cely move "u ! heavy burd5 ) :i*1 ) mi/ak5 k9dness1 x has be5 lad51 :ile ! l[] limbs1 9 :i* ! circulation is mo/ languid1 & :i* require to be protect$ z well z ! *e/1 are frequ5tly expos$ to ! air1 & ! foot is cov]$ ) a %oe :i* is too ?9 to keep x dry4 ,! consequ5ce ( ?is arrangem5t is1 t ! *ild1 oppress$ by ! weight ( its clo?+1 becomes ov]heat$1 & be+ cool$ too ha/ily1 cat*es sev]e colds4 ,! habilim5ts ( *ildr5 _c be too light 9 weight2 & ?is is p]fectly consi/5t ) a prop] degree ( w>m?4 ,^? p>5ts are greatly to blame :o1 influ5c$ only by appe>ance1 & ! wi% to dress _! *ildr5 fa%ionably1 add to ! weight ( _! clo?+ by introduc+ s mu* unnecess>y fulness into ! skirts4 ,! next po9t = consid]ation1 & :i* is n inf]ior 9 importance to ! la/1 is ! adaptation ( ! dress to ! movem5ts & heal?ful developm5t ( ! figure2 &1 /range to say1 ?is po9t is almo/ entirely ov]look$ by ^? :o h ! managem5t & control ( *ildr51 al?\gh a few hone/ & s5sible m$ical m5 h rais$ _! w>n+ voices aga9/ ! sy/em n[ pursu$4 ,we he> e :]e ( ! m>* ( intellect2 we are p]petually told t ! s*oolma/] is abroad2 lessons & ma/]s ( all k9ds are endeavor+ ,to tea* ! "y idea h[ to %oot2 :ile ! little delicate frame :i* is to be> all ?is m5tal labor is left to ! ignorance ( mo!rs & nurses1 & ! t5d] m]cies ( ! dressmak]1 :o seems to ?9k t ! human frame is z easily m\ld$ into an imitation ( ^? libels on humanity repres5t$ 9 books ( fa%ionable co/ume z ! mat]ials ) :i* %e works4 ,w\ld t we _h p[]s ( p]suasion to conv9ce our read]s h[ greatly ^! figures1 ) _! excessively-small wai/s1 h&s & feet1 deviate f ! actual proportions ( well-=m$ wom56 ,un=tunately1 ! p9*$ wai/ is too common 9 real life = ^? unacqua9t$ ) ! proportions ( ! figure n to ?9k x "o ( ! ess5tial elem5ts ( beauty4 ,s f>1 h[ev]1 f be+ a beauty1 a small wai/ is an actual blemi%4 ,nev]1 until ! economy ( ! human frame is /udi$ by all classes1 & a k ( ! pr9ciples on :i* its beauties dep5d is dissem9at$ among all ranks1 c we hope t j ideas w be ent]ta9$ on ?is subject4 ,if !re is "o ?+ 9 :i* ! s*oolma/] or ! re=m] is m want$ ?an 9 ano!r1 x is 9 our dress4 ,f our bir? to our dea? we are ! slaves ( fa%ion1 ( prejudice1 & ( circum/ances4 ,! t5d]1 unresi/+ infant1 ! delicate girl1 ! mature woman1 alike suff] f ^! evil influ5ces2 "s fall victims to !m1 o!rs suff] dur+ life4 ,let u consid] ! dress ( an infant4 ,"h1 h[ev]1 x mu/ be ackn[l$g$ t ( late ye>s mu* improvem5t has tak5 place 9 "s respects1 al?\gh mu* /ill rema9s to be done4 ,caps1 ) _! trimm+ ( ?ree or f\r r[s ( lace1 & l>ge cockades :i* rivall$ 9 size ! de> little r\nd face ( ! *ild1 are discont9u$ almo/ entirely )9 doors1 ?\gh ! poor *ild is /ill almo/ ov]:elm$ ) cap1 hat1 & fea!rs1 9 its daily air+s1 ! additional weight :i* its poor neck has to su/a9 nev] once ent]+ into ! calculation ( its "m & nurse4 ,f9e fea!rs1 x is said1 make f9e birds4 ,?is may be true ) respect to ! fea!r$ creation1 b x is n s ) reg>d to *ildr54 ,!y suff] f ! misplac$ f9]y1 & f ! undue heat ( ! head4 ,& yet ! head has1 g5]ally speak+1 be5 bett] treat$ by u ?an ! re/ ( ! body4 ,:5 we look back ^u ! hi/ory ( co/ume1 x really seems z if m5--or wom51 %all we say8--_h ex]cis$ _! +5uity 9 tortur+ ! human frame1 & de/roy+ its heal? & vigor4 ,! ,am]ican ,indian compresses ! t5d] skull ( ! infant1 & b9ds its little body on to a flat bo>d2 ! ,*9ese squeezes ! feet ( ! females2 ! ,italian peasants1 foll[+ ! cu/om ( ! ,ori5tals1 /ill roll ! infant 9 swa?+ b&s2 ! little legs ( ! *ild1 t :5 left to its own disposal are 9 p]petual motion1 n[ curl$ up to ! body1 !n ?ru/ out _! extreme l5g?1 to ! evid5t enjoym5t ( _! own]1 are ext5d$ 9 a /raight l9e1 laid side by side1 & b&ag$ toge!r1 s t ! infant rem9ds "o 9 %ape ( a mummy4 ,9 ?is highly cultivat$ c\ntry we are guilty t[>ds our infants ( practices q z s5seless1 z cruel1 & z contr>y to nature4 ,! movem5ts ( ! l[] limbs1 s ess5tial to ! heal?y gr[? ( ! *ild1 are limit$ & re/ra9$1 if n altoge!r prev5t$1 by ! great weight t we hang ^u !m4 ,! long petticoats1 9 :i* e infant 9 ?is c\ntry has be5 = c5turies doom$ to pass _m mon?s ( its exi/5ce1 are z absurd z !y are prejudicial to ! *ild4 ,! evil has ( late ye>s r increas$ ?an dim9i%$1 = ! clo!s are n only made mu* long]1 b mu* full]1 s t ! poor victim has an additional weight to be>4 ,_m in/ances c be m5tion$ 9 :i* ! long clo!s h be5 made a y>d & a qu>t] long4 ,! absurdity ( ?is cu/om becomes app>5t1 if we only imag9e a "m or nurse ( %ort /atue c>ry+ an infant 9 petticoats ( ?is l5g?2 & we believe t long clo!s are always made totally irrespective ( ! height ( "m or nurse4 ,imag9e "o or ! o!r tread+ on ! robe1 & ?r[+ h]self & ! *ild d[n6 ,imag9e1 also1 ! probable consequ5ces ( su* an accid5t6 ,& :5 "o v5tures to express d\bts z to ! propriety ( dress+ an infant 9 long clo!s1 in/ead ( argum5ts 9 _! favor1 "o is met by ! absurd rem>k1 ,a baby looks s gr& 9 long clo!s6 ,we h = "s ye>s endeavor$1 z f> z our influ5ce ext5d$1 to put an end to ?is practice1 & 9 "s cases we h s f> succe$$ z to induce ! "m to %ort-coat ! *ild be=e x 0 ?ree mon?s old1 & ev5 previ\s to ?is p]iod to make ! "u g>m5ts ( a l5g? suit$ to ! size ( ! *ild1 :ile ! frock or robe1 z x is call$1 reta9$ ! fa%ionable l5g?4 ,! latt]1 be+ ( f9e texture1 did n add consid]ably to ! weight ( ! clo!s4 ,*ildr5 :o h ! free use ( _! limbs n only walk e>li] ?an o!rs1 b are /rong] on _! feet4 ,ano!r evil practice1 :i* "s ye>s s9ce prevail$ univ]sally1 0 t ( roll+ a b&age1 ?ree in*es 9 wid?1 & two or ?ree y>ds 9 l5g?1 r\nd ! body ( ! *ild4 ,! pa9 t su* a b&age1 f its unyield+ nature1 w\ld occasion1 n to speak ( its ill effects on ! heal?1 may be readily imag9$4 ,?is b&age 01 9 fact1 a k9d ( break+ 9 = ! tight lac+1 ! p5alty :i* mo/ females 9 ?is c\ntry h _h1 at "s p]iod or o!r1 to und]go4 ,!re is no end ( ! inconsi/5cies ( *ildr5's dress4 ,if1 9 e>ly infancy1 !y are buri$ 9 long petticoats1 no soon] c !y walk ?an ! petticoats are s %ort5$ t !y sc>cely cov] ! *ild's back :5 x /oops4 ,! human race has a wond]ful p[] ( accommodat+ itself to a v>iety ( temp]atures & climates2 b p]haps x is seldom expos$ to great] vicissitudes ?an 9 ! *ange f long clo!s to ! extremely %ort & full ones t are n[ fa%ionable4 ,! v full skirt is n s w>m 9 proportion to its l5g? z "o ( m mod]ate fulness2 because1 in/ead ( cl++ r\nd ! figure1 x /&s (f f x1 & admits ! air "u x4 ,! =m] is also heavi] ?an ! latt]1 inasmu* z x conta9s m mat]ial2 & ! weight ( ! clo?+ is a great disadvantage to a *ild4 ,a s5sible m$ical writ]1 ,dr4 ,john ,f4 ,s\?1 9 an excell5t little "w entitl$ ,dome/ic ,surg]y1 makes "s v judici\s obs]vations relative to *ildr5's dress4 ,( ! fa%ion ( dress+ boys ) ! tunic rea*+ to ! ?roat1 & tr\s]s1 :i* are bo? s loose z to (f] no imp$im5t to fre$om ( motion1 he approves2 b he condemns1 9 ! /ronge/ t]ms1 ! unnatural--,mr4 ,s\? rem>ks he _h almo/ said atroci\s--sy/em to :i*1 9 y\?1 if n 9 *ildhood1 girls are subject$ = ! improvem5t ( _! figure & gait4 ,x is =tunate = ! pres5t g5]ation t x is ! fa%ion = ! dresses ( ev5 little girls to be made z high z ! ?roat2 ! old fa%ion ( cutt+ ! frock l[ r\nd ! neck1 :i* /ill exi/s 9 :at is call$ full dress1 is objectionable on m ?an "o acc\nt4 ,9 ! fir/ place1 x is object$ to on ! consid]ation ( heal?2 because ! upp] "p ( ! *e/ is n protect$ f ! influ5ce ( curr5ts ( air1 & by ?is means1 z ,mr4 ,s\? obs]ves1 ! f\ndation is laid = irritable lungs4 ,9 ! next place1 ! dress is g5]ally suff]$ to fall (f ! %\ld]s1 & is1 9 fact1 only reta9$ 9 its place by ! tight b& ab\t ! wai/4 ,to avoid ! uneas9ess occasion$ by ! pressure ( ! latt]1 ! *ild slips its clo!s (f "o %\ld]1 g5]ally ! "r1 :i* x raises m ?an ! o!r2 ! consequ5ce ( ?is is1 t ! rais$ %\ld] becomes p]man5tly high] ?an ! o!r1 & ! sp9e is drawn t[>ds ! same side4 ,x is said t !re is sc>cely "o ,engli% woman 9 fifty :o has n "o %\ld] high] or ?ick] ?an ! o!r2 & !re appe>s b little d\bt t mu* ( ?is de=mity is to be ascrib$ to ! above-m5tion$ cause4 ,9 confirmation ( ?is op9ion1 x may be m5tion$ t ! practice ( we>+ dresses l[ 9 ! neck is almo/ peculi> to ,engli% girls2 ,fr5* girls1 ne>ly f infancy1 we> high dresses1 & x is c]ta9 t de=mity is n s frequ5t among ,fr5* wom5 z x is among ,engli%4 ,! discipl9e ( tight lac+ is frequ5tly begun s e>ly 9 life1 t ! poor victim has little or no recollection ( ! pa9 & suff]+ occasion$ by ! pressure ( ! /iff & uncom=table /ays be=e ! frame has become accu/om$ to !m4 ,^? ( our read]s :o 7 =tunate en\gh to escape ?is infliction 9 e>ly life1 & :o adopt$ /iff /ays at a m mature age1 c be> te/imony to ! suff]+ occasion$ by !m dur+ ! fir/ few weeks ( _! use4 ,o1 said a girl :o put on /iff /ays1 = ! fir/ "t1 at ! age ( f\rte5 or fifte51 ,i wi% b$time 0 come1 t ,i might take (f ^! /iff & uncom=table /ays1 !y pa9 me s mu*4 ,hu%1 hu%6 exclaim$ a />* old maid5 aunt1 %ock$ at :at %e ?\ght ! indelicacy ( ! expression :i* pa9 _h wrung f ! poor girl2 y mu/ be> x = a "t2 y w soon get us$ to x4 ,us$ to x6 ,yes1 inde$1 z ! cook said ! eels did to sk9n+1 & )1 z reg>ds ! poor girls1 almo/ z disa/r\s consequ5ces4 ,!re are ?ree po9ts ( view 9 :i* tight lac+ is prejudicial4 ,x weak5s ! muscles ( ! %\ld]s & *e/1 :i* ru/1 z x 71 = want ( use2 x injures1 by pressure1 ! important organs conta9$ 9 ! *e/ & trunk2 &1 la/ly1 in/ead ( improv+ ! figure1 x positively & absolutely de=ms x4 ,a wai/ disproportionately small1 comp>$ ) ! /ature & proportions ( ! individual1 is a great] de=mity ?an "o :i* is too l>ge2 ! latt] is simply clumsy2 x does n injure ! heal? ( ! p]son1 :ile ! =m] is n only prejudicial to heal?1 b to beauty4 ,7 our fair read]s b once conv9c$ ( ?is fact1 !re w\ld be an end ( tight lac+2 & ! good results aris+ f ! abolition ( ?is practice w\ld be evid5t 9 ! improv$ heal? ( ! next g5]ation4 ,:at a ho/ ( evils foll[ 9 ! /eps ( tight lac+6 ,indige/ion1 hy/]ia1 sp9al di/ortion1 consumption1 liv] compla9ts1 disease ( ! he>t1 canc]1 e>ly dea?6--^! are a few ( !m1 & en\gh to make bo? mo!rs & daught]s tremble4 ,x is an aggravation ( ! evil t is br\ght ^u u frequ5tly by ! ag5cy ( a "m--( h] ^u ^: affection & exp]i5ce a *ild naturally relies 9 all ?+s1 & ^: lam5table ignorance ( :at con/itutes beauty ( =m1 z well z h] subjection to ! ?raldom ( fa%ion1 is ! prolific s\rce ( s mu* future mis]y to h] unsuspect+ daught]4 ,education is ! ord] ( ! day2 b surely t education mu/ be v sup]ficial & incomplete1 ( :i* ! /udy ( ! economy ( ! human =m1 its v>i\s beauties1 & ! wond]ful skill ) :i* x 0 creat$1 =m no "p4 ,a girl sp5ds sev]al ye>s 9 le>n+ ,fr5*1 ,italian1 & ,g]man1 :i* may be useful to h] %\ld %e meet ) ,fr5*1 ,italians1 or ,g]mans1 or %\ld %e visit ! cont95t2 %e sp5ds ?ree1 f\r1 five1 & sometimes six h\rs a day1 9 practis+ on ! piano1 frequ5tly )\t hav+ any real tal5t = ?is accompli%m5t1 :ile %e is kept 9 utt] ignorance ( t :i* is ( vital consequ5ce n only to h]self1 b to h] future (fspr+1 namely1 a k ( :at con/itutes true beauty1 & contributes to ! pres]vation ( heal?1 &1 we may also add1 ( good humor & happ9ess2 = x is "o ( ! evils att5d+ ill heal?1 t x frequ5tly induces a fretful & irritable /ate ( m9d4 ,in/ead ( ! really useful k ( ! economy ( ! frame1 & ! means ( pres]v+ heal?1 girls are taught ! con/ra9$ attitudes & ! artificial deportm5t ( ! danc+ ma/]4 ,! rem>k ( ,sir ,jo%ua ,reynolds on ?is subject has be5 (t5 quot$4 ,he said1 ,all ! motions ( *ildr5 are full ( grace2 affectation & di/ortion come 9 ) ! danc+ ma/]4 ,to danc+ itself !re is n ! slighte/ objection2 x is at once an agreeable & heal?y occupation1 & x af=ds a pleas+ & innoc5t recreation4 ,! pleasure :i* mo/ *ildr5 take 9 x1 9 spite ( ! ex]cises :i* !y are compell$ to practise1 proves1 we ?9k1 its utility4 ,! treatm5t ( ! feet is on a p> ) t ( ! re/ ( ! body4 ,! toes are ?ru/ close toge!r into a %oe1 ! %ape ( ! sole ( :i* does n resemble t ( ! foot4 ,x is g5]ally n>r[] ?an ! foot1 :i*1 !re=e1 hangs ov] ! sides4 ,! soles ( *ildr5's %oes are1 moreov]1 made alike on bo? sides1 :]eas ! inside %\ld be ne>ly /raight1 & ! wid? ( ! sole %\ld correspond exactly ) t ( ! foot4 ,boots1 :i* h be5 s fa%ionable ( late ye>s1 are v conv5i5t1 & h a neat appe>ance1 b !y are consid]$ to weak5 ! ankle1 because ! artificial support :i* !y give to t "p prev5ts ! full ex]cise ( ! muscles1 :i* wa/e f want ( use4 ,%oes %\ld be cut %ort 9 ! qu>t]1 because ! pressure necess>y to keep su* %oes z are n[ worn on ! feet w1 9 ?is case1 be on ! in/ep in/ead ( ! toes1 :i* w1 by ?is arrangem5t1 h m room4 ,we %all conclude our obs]vations on *ildr5's dress1 consid]$ 9 a sanit>y po9t ( view1 9 ! words ( ,mr4 ,s\?4 ,if1 !n1 y wi% y\r *ildr51 girls especially1 to h ! be/ *ance ( heal?1 & a good con/itution1 let !m we> flannel next _! sk91 & wooll5 /ock+s 9 w9t]2 h y\r girls' *e/s cov]$ to ! coll> bones1 & _! %\ld]s 91 n out ( _! dresses1 if y w\ld h !m /raight2 & d n conf9e _! *e/s & compress _! dige/ive organs by bone /ays1 or int]f]e ) ! free movem5t ( _! *e/s by tight belts1 or any o!r contrivance1 if y desire _! lungs %\ld d _! duty1 ^u :i* s ma9ly dep5ds ! pres]vation ( heal?4--,%>pe's ,london ,magaz9e4 ,,note4--,! ,fig4 #eh1 ref]r$ to on ! top ( page #ei1 is n f\nd 9 ! plate2 b ! same /yle ( dress+ ! hair may be se5 9 ,fig4 #eg4 ,transcrib]'s ,notes & ,am5dm5ts3 ,inconsi/5cies 9 spell+ & hyph5ation reta9$3 ,ard5e_/,ard]ne ,makr9itza_/,m>k9itza ,p>megian9o_/,p>megiano outdoor_/out-door ',head ,dress' on ! title page 0 left un-hyph5at$1 z pr9t$4 ,am5dm5ts to ! text z orig9ally pr9t$3 ,li/ ( ,illu/rations & ,*apt] ,,vii 7caption = plate ,,xii47 '#hi1 #ij4 ,f ,le ,moniteur de la ,mode1' to '#ij1 #ia4 ,f ,le ,moniteur de la ,mode1' ,*apt] ,,ii4 ',! lady 9 ! ev5+ dress 7,fig #di7' to ',! lady 9 ! ev5+ dress 7,fig4 #di7' ,*apt] ,,vi4 ',! mat]ials ( ! drap]y 9 ! latt] is' to ',! mat]ials ( ! drap]y 9 ! latt] are' ,*apt] ,,vii4 'ribbon1 artificial fl[]s4 fea!rs1' to 'ribbon1 artificial fl[]s1 fea!rs1' '! environs ( ,a!ns1 7,fig4 #di47' to '! environs ( ,a!ns1 7,fig4 #dg47'