,illustration ,illustration3 ,see description on page ,,xi ,,candy-,,making ,,revolutionized ,,confectionery ,,from ,,vegetables ,,by ,,mary ,,elizabeth ,,hall ,,illustrated ,new ,york ,,sturgis ,,walton ,,company #aiab ,all rights reserved ,,copyright1 #aiab1 ,,by ,,perry ,,mason ,,company ,,copyright1 #aiab1 ,,by ,,sturgis ,,walton ,,company ,set up and ,electrotyped4 ,published1 ,december1 #aiab ,,to ,,one ,,elizabeth1 ,,and ,,all ,,elizabeths ,,who ,,love ,,pure ,,candy ,,and ,,its ,,making ,,contents ,chapter ,page ,,introduction i ,,preface vi ,,section ,i ,i ,,for ,,the ,,novice #c ,,ii ,,for ,,the ,,candy-,,maker',s ,,table #h ,,iii ,,thermometer #ai ,,iv ,,use ,,of ,,steam #bd ,v ,,crystallization #bg ,,vi ,,chocolate ,,coating #cc ,,vii ,,sugar #da ,,section ,,ii ,,viii ,,decorative ,,candies ,i ,from ,potato ,paste #eb ,green ,leaves #ef ,,ii ,violets ,pop-corn ,violets #eg ,cocoanut ,violets #eh ,violet ,boutonniere #ei ,,iii ,from ,potato ,fondant ,uncooked ,fondant #fa ,cooked ,potato ,fondant #fb ,modeled ,candy #fb ,coloring #fd ,white ,daisy #ff ,yellow ,daisy #fi ,calla ,lily #fi ,red ,apples #gj ,single ,roses #gb ,rose ,buds #gd ,new ,potato #ge ,pea-,pod #gf ,snow ,ball #gf ,grapes #gi ,other ,possibilities #gi ,,ix ,,potato ,,caramel ,potato ,caramel ,no4 #a #ha ,potato ,caramel ,no4 #b #hb ,potato ,caramel ,no4 #c #hb ,opera ,caramel #hc ,x ,,potato--,,miscellaneous ,mocha ,walnuts #hd ,pecan ,creams #he ,raisin ,creams #he ,peppermint ,chocolates #hf ,celtic ,almonds #hf ,chocolate ,bars #hg ,vegetable ,cream #hh ,,xi ,,sweet ,,potato ,sweet ,potato ,patties #ij ,sweet ,potato ,knots #ia ,sweet ,potato ,pastilles #ic ,,xii ,,parsnip ,candied ,parsnips #ic ,parsnip ,boutonniere #ie ,,xiii ,,carrot ,carrot ,rings #ig ,crystallized ,carrot #ih ,carrot ,roll #ih ,gingers #ii ,garden ,ginger #ii ,variations #aja ,,xiv ,,bean ,candied ,green ,beans #ajb ,bean ,taffy #ajc ,nut ,bean ,taffy #ajd ,,xv ,,beet ,frosted ,beet ,slice #aje ,beet ,puffs #ajf ,beet ,cubes with ,variations #ajg ,crystallized ,beets #ajh ,spiced ,beets #aji ,spiced ,beet ,bon-bons #aji ,,xvi ,,tomato ,tomato ,marshmallow #aaj ,chocolate ,marshmallow #aab ,vegetable ,nougatine #aab ,chocolate ,nougatine #aad ,nut ,bur #aad ,,xvii ,,cornlette ,nut ,cornlettes #aah ,,xviii ,,onion ,,cold ,,tablets #abj ,,xix ,,oriental ,,paste #abc ,seaweed #abd ,,xx ,,stuffed ,,fruits ,dates for ,candy #abh ,sparkling ,dates #abh ,chocolate ,covered ,dates #abi ,date ,brilliants #abi ,rhubarb ,marmalade #abi ,sugared ,dates #acj ,stuffed ,dates #acj ,stuffed ,prunes #acj ,,xxi ,,angelique ,rings #acb ,orange ,rings #acc ,angelique as a ,plant #acc ,preserved ,green ,angelique #ace ,dried ,angelique #ace ,,xxii ,,for ,,the ,,caterer #acf ,,xxiii ,,for ,,the ,,teacher #adb ,,illustrations ,,vegetable ,,candies ,frontispiece ,,opposite ,,page ,,fascinating ,,to ,,the ,,child #gb ,,boxed ,,vegetable ,,candies #ih ,,decorative ,,and ,,edible #aah ,,angelica ,,archangelica #acb ,,for ,,the ,,caterer #ach ,,introduction ,when ,mary ,elizabeth ,hall first brought her discovery to my attention1 ,i thought that it was indeed one that would revolutionize candy-making1 both that of the amateur at home and of the manufacturer4 ,and1 in the months that have followed1 to this belief has been added the conviction that this revolution is one very much worth while4 ,why so simple and obvious a discovery was not made long ago is a mystery to me2 perhaps its very simplicity and obviousness is proof of its importance4 ,of cookery1 candy-making is a branch which is entitled to more dignity than it ordinarily receives4 ,negatively and positively1 the importance of sweets to the child can hardly be over-estimated4 ,if he consumes a quantity of impure confectionery1 his digestion will be ruined for life2 how much of the confectionery bought is rankly impure it is well for the mother's peace of mind that she does not know6 ,on the other hand1 if the child is not given sweets1 he is deprived of a food element of the greatest value to his development4 ,and for the adult1 the value of pure candy is too obvious to warrant comment4 ,vegetable candy1 to my mind1 is ideal confectionery4 ,of its purity1 there can be no doubt4 ,moreover1 it furnishes the valuable element of sugar so combined with nutritious vegetable bases that1 because of the bulk1 there is no temptation to overeat4 ,this quality of the new confection would seem insurance against the evil effects of gluttony6 ,before an undue amount of sugar is consumed1 the very mass of the vegetable base has satisfied the appetite4 ,many sorts of vegetable candy have unusual keeping qualities2 indeed1 some kinds will retain their flavor and moisture for as long as a year4 ,it is significant to note that almost all non-vegetable confections that can be successfully stored for any length of time contain artificial preservatives2 vegetable candy1 however1 keeps1 not because of the addition of alcohol or even benzoate of soda1 but because of the excellence of the processes themselves4 ,notwithstanding its advantages1 vegetable candy is no harder to make than is any other good candy4 ,for success in any sort of cookery1 much hard work is necessary2 slipshod methods and intuition can not produce food that is up to standard4 ,of even greater force is this rule when applied to the most delicate brand of cookery--the making of confectionery4 ,miss ,hall has supplemented her major discovery by several other valuable discoveries--or adaptations1 as she modestly styles them4 ,her use of crystallization1 for instance1 enables the amateur confectioner to secure results which were previously out of her reach4 ,aside from its virtues from the hygienic1 dietetic and practical points of view1 the new confectionery has much to commend it4 ,by utilizing the common and cheap vegetables of the home garden1 it gives to the girls and women on the farm and in the village an opportunity that previously was not theirs4 ,this discovery means that they can now make the finer sorts of candy1 the fashioning of which was formerly out of the question to women who did not have at their command the resources of the specialty stores of the large city--and plenty of money to spend in them4 ,this enlargement of the culinary horizon of these countless women is not without broad significance2 the removal of their limitations--petty and otherwise1 if you will--is necessary before we shall cease to tremble because they who belong on the farm and in the village refuse to stay there4 ,once banish the discontent of the farm woman1 and there is no rural problem of consequence4 ,and vegetable candy-making is not without sociological importance because it is a step--though1 perhaps1 a very short one1 comparatively6--in that direction4 ,more definite1 however1 is another field for speculation in connection with vegetable candy4 ,it offers to the housewife1 house-daughter1 and to the teacher a new modeling medium4 ,that from a cheap and easily made base attractive objects may be made--and then eaten--surely is a recommendation of no slight moment4 ,miss ,hall's discovery has placed within easy reach of persons of moderate means and skill a medium through which really beautiful objects can be made in candy4 ,for the first time1 the amateur candy-maker can prove for herself that candy-making is not only an art1 but that it is one of the fine arts4 ,,warren ,,dunham ,,foster4 ,,preface ,the years of work in candy-making that have made possible this book1 ,i now look back upon with a certain feeling of satisfaction4 ,the satisfaction comes from the knowledge that because of the discovery that is here recorded1 the candy of the future will be purer1 more wholesome1 more nourishing than that of the past has been4 ,even if the processes that are here set forth fail of the widest adoption1 ,i have still the satisfaction of knowing that just so far as they are adopted will there be greater healthfulness of confectionery4 ,another reason for the satisfaction that ,i feel is my knowledge that my discovery has opened to the home candy-maker a whole new world4 ,previously many of the better sorts of confectionery--particularly of the decorative kinds--were out of her range1 either because of the cost of the necessary ingredients or the difficulty of their purchase or handling2 particularly under a heavy disadvantage has been the village or country cook who has not had the service rendered by the specialty stores of the great cities4 ,now1 however1 with the ever present potato substituted for marzipan--hard to obtain at more a pound than potatoes cost a peck6--it is the girl or woman with her own garden who has the advantage4 ,moreover1 decorative candies that formerly required more skill than most amateur confectioners possess can now be made by anyone who can model clay or use a cooky cutter4 ,mothers who formerly were all too often required to gratify their children's longing for candies that told a story--candies modeled or otherwise decorative--by giving them boughten confectionery that contained plaster of ,paris1 aniline dyes and other ingredients equally harmful1 can now in their own kitchen from nourishing and harmless vegetables fashion sweets that are just as beguiling to childish eyes4 ,nor is this all4 ,children invariably have a craving for sweets that if allowed to run its course is almost sure to lead to indigestion and worse4 ,on the other hand1 if this craving is not satisfied1 the children will be deprived of a food of the utmost value--a food element1 indeed1 that it is indispensable4 ,vegetable candy offers an ideal solution of this difficulty4 ,sugar it of course contains1 but the vegetable base supplies no small part of the bulk2 consequently children may eat their fill of it and satisfy their natural longing for candy without having gorged themselves with sugar4 ,moreover1 the vegetable base has virtues that are positive as well as negative2 it itself supplies valuable food elements and equally valuable vegetable salts4 ,many colors and flavors are made available by this discovery4 ,the use of beets1 for instance1 has added to the candy-maker's palette a very attractive new shade4 ,each vegetable contributes at least one new flavor4 ,novel as are candies made from vegetables1 they must not be thought faddish4 ,caramels1 marshmallows and bon-bons and all the rest are here2 tastes that have already won favor are here1 and many new ones as well4 ,in places1 perhaps1 the directions that follow may seem over detailed4 ,invariably1 however1 ,i have tried to give information about all the points that would come to the mind of the amateur confectioner4 ,i have tried to tell the why as well as the what4 ,moreover1 the processes at times may seem1 perhaps1 a bit over long4 ,it should be noted1 however1 that vegetable candy-making is no more complicated1 if as much so1 as is the making of any other confectionery4 ,good candy invariably means effort1 and intelligent painstaking effort at that4 ,it has been with the home candy-maker in mind that ,i have written this book4 ,undoubtedly1 however1 the discovery will appeal to the professional4 ,i am glad1 for the more vegetable candy is made1 the less unhealthful confectionery there will be consumed4 ,for the same reason1 ,i hope1 too1 that women and girls seeking to make profitable their idle hours at home1 may embark in a small way in the manufacture and sale of vegetable candy4 ,my thanks are due to ,the ,youth's ,companion for its kind permission to reprint material that first appeared on its ,girls' ,page--a department that1 together with ,family ,page and ,boys' ,page1 has done much for better living throughout the nation4 ,no doubt ,i have been garrulous concerning my own discovery1 but ,i trust that the privilege of garrulity will be granted to the woman who has been a pioneer and who1 after suffering the hardships that are always the lot of the pioneer1 has1 as she believes1 opened up a whole new world in candy-making and a very good world at that6 ,m4 ,e4 ,h4 ,,boston1 ,,mass41 ,june #ab1 #aiab4 ,,key ,,to ,,frontispiece #a ,green ,leaf #b ,violet #c ,wild-,rose ,with ,angelique ,leaf #d ,red ,star ,from ,potato ,paste #e ,jellies--made from green peas #f ,carrot ,ring #g ,celtic ,almond #h ,mocha ,walnut #i ,pastille ,of ,sweet ,potato #aj ,frosted ,beet ,slice #aa ,carrot ,ring #ab ,beet ,leaves #ac ,daisy--attached to macaroon with a crystal #ad ,pecan ,cream #ae ,angelique ,ring #af ,raisin ,cream #ag ,heart ,from ,potato ,paste #ah ,sweet ,potato ,knot #ai ,triple ,filled ,orange ,rings #bj ,beet ,puff #ba ,nut ,bur #bb ,pea-,pod #bc ,cocoanut ,beet ,square #bd ,red ,apple #be ,yellow ,rose--on small round cake #bf ,snow ,ball ,,candy ,,making ,,revolutionized ,,section ,,one ,i ,,help ,,for ,,the ,,novice ,almost all of the difficulties of the novice in the art of candy-making come from lack of practice4 ,although it is a difficult branch of cookery1 experience in its intricacies will overcome many of the handicaps under which the beginner struggles4 ,it should be carefully noted that these handicaps apply fully as much to the old-fashioned sort of candy-making as to the new4 ,the fundamental processes are often the same4 ,if the beginner in candy-making knows and will follow a few simple rules1 the measure of success that greets her efforts will be largely increased4 ,be accurate4 ,if the rule calls for one-quarter teaspoonful of a flavoring extract1 measure that amount by a measuring-spoon2 do not take up any spoon that happens to be convenient1 and pour in what seems to be about the right quantity4 ,more and more cooks are working by rule and not by intuition2 but in candy-making the caution against inaccuracy is especially necessary1 for the processes are delicate1 and subtleties of flavor and of texture are more evident than in more substantial food4 ,the weather is of more moment in candy-making than in plain cooking4 ,do not try to make candy on a muggy day2 the results probably will be unsatisfactory4 ,but if forced to disregard this warning1 attempt but little1 act quickly1 and remember that damp weather is the only excuse for the substitution of intuition for rule4 ,just why humidity and low barometric pressure play havoc with the work of the confectioner need not be discussed here4 ,in making confectionery1 cleanliness to the point of chemical purity is highly desirable4 ,many successful cooks believe that candy should be made in a pan that has never been used for anything else4 ,that belief1 perhaps1 may be extreme1 but the fact remains that one cannot be too careful in regard to the cleanliness of her utensils4 ,and this necessity for cleanliness holds for any receptacle in which any ingredient is placed4 ,note particularly that heating lard will leave a taint which will spoil the delicacy of flavor of candy made in the same dish4 ,very often it is desirable that liquids remain hot after the actual cooking has been done4 ,the ordinary stove gives too much heat for the purpose1 and the confectioner's working slab--a device moderately heated by steam--is expensive4 ,a cheap and effective substitute1 however1 is a humble soapstone4 ,use marbled cloth instead of waxed paper to dry candy upon4 ,then there will be no danger that little particles of the paper adhere to the candy4 ,candied fruit and similar confections1 however1 should be drained on nickeled wire netting as explained in another chapter4 ,place the netting over a dish1 and pour upon it the whole mass of fruit and syrup4 ,by pouring all of it at once1 the coating of syrup will be uniform3 ,it will dry evenly1 as the air will reach all sides alike4 ,after most of the moisture has evaporated1 the fruit will be ready to be rolled in sugar4 ,sprinkle a shallow dish with coarse sugar4 ,roll each piece of fruit in a separate place in the dish1 taking care that the sugar is absolutely dry when the fruit is placed in it4 ,if the sugar is damp1 it will mat so that the confection is mussy to the eye and unpleasant to the palate4 ,moreover1 the scales of damp sugar will jar off1 leaving a break in the complete covering which is necessary for the preservation of the fruit4 ,one rotting piece will contaminate another1 until the whole boxful is unfit for use4 ,if the sugar is properly applied1 candied fruit1 well packed1 will keep for several weeks without injury4 ,pack soft candies in layers separated by waxed papers backed by cardboard4 ,remember that the best-made confections will be unappetizing when presented or served unattractively4 ,in pulling taffies or other candies1 corn starch may be put to good use4 ,no definite rules can be given1 because the temperature and the humidity of each pair of hands--to put the case euphemistically--are different4 ,each time the material is pulled1 the candy-maker should dust her hands as lightly as possible with the corn starch4 ,a moderate amount of it worked into the mass will do no harm1 but care must be taken not to use so much that the candy becomes starchy4 ,moreover1 a heavy coating of the starch does not protect the hands any more than does a light dusting4 ,while the candy is being pulled1 it should be handled as little as possible4 ,let the candy's own weight over the hook do the real work4 ,to avoid bunchiness1 the confectioner must keep the mass moving in uniform thickness--a difficult task1 success in which comes only from practice4 ,,ii ,,for ,,the ,,candy-,,maker',s ,,table ,for real success in candy-making the amateur needs a few small utensils similar to those that have long been used by confectioners4 ,the advice which follows can be as well applied to old-fashioned candy making as to the new sort4 ,a copper bon-bon dipper1 really nothing more than wire twisted so as to outline a spoon1 will be found convenient for any sort of dipping likely to be attempted in the home kitchen4 ,the wire dipper is a much more satisfactory tool than a silver fork1 the implement usually recommended for this purpose4 ,get fourteen inches of copper wire--preferably number eighteen--heavy enough to bear a few ounces of weight without bending1 but soft enough to be shaped easily by the fingers4 ,a quarter-pound spool should not cost over ten cents4 ,grasp the wire five inches from one end and bend it double at that point4 ,the double strand--which makes the handle--will then be five inches long1 and the single four4 ,out of this single strand1 beginning half an inch from the end of the doubled strand1 form a loop three-quarters of an inch long4 ,twisting the wire round the forefinger or a small empty spool will make the loop4 ,wind the two inches of wire left free about the two parallel strands1 carrying it up as far as it will reach4 ,this skeleton spoon is excellent for dipping bon-bons1 fruits or nuts4 ,to hold objects of different sizes1 the soft copper wire may be bent easily2 and in this respect the home-made dippers are better than the nickeled ones on the market4 ,for dipping creams into chocolate1 this dipper is probably the best device which is available for the amateur4 ,another help is the so-called rubber mat1 useful for modeling wafers and centers4 ,this is nothing more than a sheet of heavy rubber fabric1 stamped so that molds are formed4 ,before using1 place the mat in cold water1 dry1 and then pour the fondant into the depressions until they are entirely filled4 ,when the fondant is dry enough to hold its form1 the mat is turned upside down1 and the wafers and centers easily freed4 ,after being washed in cold water and carefully dried1 the mat is ready for use again4 ,illustration3 ,rubber ,mat4 ,fig4 #a ,the advantage of the mat is that all the candies are of the same size and regular in shape1 and that no material is wasted4 ,for the girl who intends to get only one mat1 the kind with round molds--truncated cones1 to be accurate--is the best to buy1 because it may be used equally well for centers or wafers4 ,see ,fig4 #a above4 ,the candy-maker who is prepared to spend more for her equipment may well buy several mats1 each with molds of different shapes4 ,then she should reserve one shape for each flavoring or mixture1 so that she can easily distinguish by sight different kinds of creams after they are made4 ,the mats are sold by weight1 generally at the rate of a dollar and a half a pound4 ,the one shown in ,fig4 #a weighs eighteen ounces4 ,illustration3 ,dropping ,funnel4 ,fig4 #b ,either to fill molds or to drop masses upon slabs or waxed paper in the old way1 the candy-maker will find a dropping funnel useful4 ,this is a small tin cornucopia with a long handle4 ,whittle a clean stick so that one end of it will fit into the outlet of the funnel1 and plug the hole from above4 ,fill the funnel with the mass to be dropped1 and then raise the stick just long enough to allow enough of the mass to run out to fill the mold--or if the old plan is followed1 to form a wafer or cream of proper size4 ,see ,fig4 #b1 on the preceding page4 ,intelligent operation of the funnel makes the work more rapid and accurate1 and the mass holds its heat longer1 and is kept better mixed than if poured or spooned from a dish4 ,funnels especially made for this purpose cost from twenty-five cents to one dollar2 but any tinsmith can easily make one out of an eight-inch piece of heavy tin1 shaped so as to form a cornucopia1 with the smaller opening not more than three-eighths of an inch in diameter1 and attached to a handle at least twelve inches long4 ,for heating mixtures1 white enamel dishes are preferable to tin or aluminum4 ,for mixing1 wooden spoons are better than metal ones1 because the mass which is being stirred does not stick so readily4 ,wooden paddles are often better yet1 for their flat surfaces do not retain masses so tenaciously4 ,perhaps the most useful tool of all is a nameless instrument which does duty for both knife and spoon1 and in addition has virtues all its own4 ,it is particularly valuable for reaching the corners of pans4 ,this tool is not on the general market1 but can be made by most metal-workers--either tinsmiths or blacksmiths4 ,a piece of spring steel1 about ten inches long1 rounded at the end1 and curved as shown in ,fig4 #c1 is riveted into a wooden handle4 ,heavy tin may be substituted for the steel1 if desired4 ,illustration3 ,special ,knife4 ,fig4 #c ,a molasses-candy or taffy pull without a hook may be good fun1 but it is hard on the candy as well as on the hands4 ,a blacksmith can easily make the hook of round iron1 about a half-inch in diameter and eighteen or twenty inches long4 ,the rod should be bent until it forms roughly a letter ,j1 with the tip about seven inches from the horizontal line4 ,the top--the upper part of the horizontal line of the ,j--should be pounded flat1 and two holes bored for screws4 ,be sure to attach the hook to the wall firmly1 and about level with the shoulders4 ,hooks may be purchased for about fifty cents apiece1 but those made by the blacksmith will do as well4 ,even with the hook1 it is well to wear canvas gloves1 so that the mass can be handled hotter1 and in a more hygienic fashion than with bare hands4 ,canvas gloves are easily laundered--something which cannot be said of the expensive buckskin gloves recommended for this purpose4 ,for use in cutting in fondant and other small masses it is well to buy a four inch wall paper knife--a tool which can be bought for from ten to twenty-five cents4 ,fondant should never be beaten1 but instead it should be cut in4 ,this process is scraping up the whole mass1 folding it over and cutting through with the knife4 ,this motion is repeated1 from each side of the pan1 until the fondant becomes a ball which can be kneaded by the hand4 ,procure smooth iron bars1 two fifteen inches long and two eighteen inches long1 all three-eighths of an inch thick and two inches wide4 ,any blacksmith shop can furnish them at slight expense1 or they may be purchased more cheaply from the confectioner's supply stores4 ,the bars are to be placed--set on edge--in the form of a rectangle on a marble slab4 ,be sure that the bars are carefully smoothed1 for otherwise they will be untidy and soon rust4 ,by lapping the edges and moving the bars back and forth1 a receptacle of any size desired can be made4 ,after buttering slab and bars1 pour the candy into the enclosure4 ,when it has cooled1 remove the bars1 and with one sharp incision cut the candy clear across4 ,use a sharp knife of uniform thickness and width1 preferably with a thin blade4 ,it is also convenient to have two bars six inches long4 ,they are useful in dividing a batch when different flavors or colors are used4 ,the partitions will be useful for dividing the filling from the outside layers when a three-storied candy is to be made4 ,the need for these bars comes from the fact that one should never cut candy in a pan4 ,the attempt to do so will always result in pieces with crumbling edges1 as the knife has to be dragged through the candy instead of cutting down sharply1 and as the sides of the pan allow no room for the expansion which the width of the knife will cause4 ,moreover1 there is always waste in the corners and at the sides4 ,the candy-maker should appreciate the palette knife4 ,the flexibility of the blade is such that it can be put to many uses for which the ordinary knife is unfitted4 ,for instance1 with a palette knife it is possible to coax refractory substances from the corners and edges of pans4 ,because of this flexibility1 it is particularly useful in lifting modeled forms from a flat surface1 as is explained in ,chapter ,,viii4 ,to the confectioner1 one of the most useful tools is a modeling stick4 ,this small tool is of great value to the candy-maker4 ,it can be grasped easily and its shape allows of its use at many angles that would be inconvenient or impossible for a less adaptable tool4 ,the roundness of the blunt end serves many purposes2 the straighter side is particularly useful for smoothing off work1 and the inside curves lend themselves to a great number of processes4 ,wire screens1 often known as wire baking forms1 are very useful for drying candies that have been sugared or for draining confections that need to be exposed to the air4 ,those that are oblong in shape are much more convenient than the round ones4 ,the wires forming the screens cross at distances of about one-sixteenth of an inch1 making really a coarse sieve4 ,the sides extend up about one-half inch4 ,the screens make excellently ventilated trays1 but for candies that come from an ordinary crystal the mesh is too fine to allow proper draining4 ,should the crystal be very thin1 however1 the screen can be used for draining1 provided the pieces are well separated and placed only one layer deep4 ,wire racks for the drying of candy are among the necessary equipment of the candy-maker4 ,these may be had in varying degrees of fineness1 the wires forming squares of from three-eighths to three-quarters of an inch4 ,squares of one-half inch and under give the best support for confections1 however1 and allow ample room for draining4 ,if the candies are small or soft the large squares give insufficient support4 ,the racks are without sides1 the edges being formed either by a heavy wire or a metal binding4 ,the supports are made by wires bent down at the ends and at the center4 ,these racks are the same as the cake coolers of ordinary cookery4 ,another method of drying particularly useful for models and cream centers is a bed of corn starch4 ,do not use this plan with any confection the surface of which is wet from the application of pastes4 ,as the basis for this process buy two or three packages of a cheap grade of corn starch4 ,the corn starch can be kept ready for use by occasionally drying it out and sifting it4 ,spread the corn starch in a large shallow pan or tray thick enough to hold the weight of your candy4 ,this gives a non-resisting surface which keeps the models in form and when dry the corn starch will easily brush off4 ,by all odds the most valuable tool for the confectioner1 amateur or professional1 is the candy thermometer4 ,its use is so important that the following chapter is devoted to a discussion of it4 ,,iii ,,the ,,candy ,,thermometer ,for real success in candy-making1 the home confectioner needs a candy thermometer4 ,as is emphasized throughout the volume1 accuracy is of the greatest importance in candy-making4 ,cooking must stop at just the right moment1 or the candy is either harmed or actually spoiled4 ,until the last few years1 for the amateur1 the only tests to determine the completion of cooking have been known as thread1 soft ball1 hard ball1 crack and hard crack4 ,while the candy-maker has been struggling with these unsatisfactory tests1 the candy has kept on cooking1 perhaps until it has reached the next stage of temperature1 changed texture1 and so become unfit for the use for which it was intended4 ,the professional confectioner has long been able1 by the use of a thermometer1 to determine just how hot his candy was and to remove it from the heat at exactly the right moment4 ,his thermometer1 however1 was not only too expensive for the amateur1 but also too long to be used except in a large vat4 ,there are now on the market1 however1 thermometers that the amateur confectioner or small manufacturer can use to advantage4 ,even when hardware dealers do not keep the thermometers in stock1 they can--and will--order them from their jobbers4 ,the instruments1 of which there are several makes1 are about nine inches long1 and sell for from one dollar to two dollars and fifty cents4 ,most of these instruments register from about eighty degrees to three hundred and eighty degrees ,fahrenheit1 although the range which interests candy-makers most is only from two hundred degrees to three hundred and twenty degrees4 ,there are a few facts which the girl confectioner who uses a thermometer should keep in mind4 ,buy a thermometer which is guaranteed by its maker4 ,see that the markings are so well defined that they can be read easily4 ,before use1 the thermometer must be regulated to conform to the local altitude4 ,place the thermometer in a kettle of water1 heat1 and let it boil for ten minutes4 ,if the mercury marks two hundred and twelve degrees1 the thermometer is correct as it is1 but if there is a variation of two degrees or more1 allowance must be made4 ,if water boils at two hundred and ten degrees1 two degrees must be subtracted every time the thermometer is read4 ,then soft ball means two hundred and thirty-six degrees1 not two hundred and thirty-eight degrees1 as it would had the water boiled at the normal two hundred and twelve degrees1 or two hundred and forty degrees1 as it would had the water boiled at two hundred and fourteen degrees4 ,do not think that a variation of even two degrees is too slight to count2 absolute accuracy is essential4 ,for safety in transit1 manufacturers often pinch together the case of the instrument so that the scale-piece can not work loose and become broken4 ,a very little tinkering with the copper jacket1 however1 will be sufficient to free the scale-piece4 ,this must be done1 not only so that the thermometer can be cleaned readily1 but so that1 when the mixture to be tested is shallow1 the dial can be pushed out in order that the bulb can be covered by the hot mass4 ,unless the bulb is covered1 the thermometer will not register correctly4 ,allow the thermometer to become hot gradually2 do not thrust a cold instrument into boiling water4 ,do not remove the thermometer to read it1 as it quickly changes4 ,read it with the eye on the level4 ,remember that mixtures which require stirring must be stirred below the thermometer as well as elsewhere4 ,be sure that the thermometer is clean4 ,each time after it has been used push the dial out of the copper case and wash both thoroughly4 ,do not neglect the back of the piece of metal to which the tube is attached4 ,be particularly careful after mixtures which contain milk or cream4 ,this removable scale is a great convenience4 ,the amateur candy-maker will be glad to know that sugar and water will not burn until all the moisture is evaporated1 and that does not happen until three hundred and fifty degrees is reached4 ,if1 however1 she is making an unusually small quantity1 and the thermometer begins to climb above three hundred degrees--beware6 ,the large quantity1 however1 will take care of itself because of the moisture it contains4 ,below is a table which will enable one to interpret the old stages in terms of degrees4 ,fortunately most candy thermometers have this information stamped upon their dials4 #caj deg4--,hard ,cracked #bij deg4--,cracked #bed deg4--,hard ,ball #bch deg4--,soft ,ball #bcj deg4--,thread ,in the following pages it is assumed that the cook has a thermometer4 ,if she has not1 the degrees given may be translated into the old stages and the old tests used4 ,thus1 if the directions read cook to two hundred and thirty-eight degrees1 the confectioner who has no thermometer will stop the cooking when a portion of the mass will form a 'soft ball' in cold water4 ,if the directions read two hundred and thirty-six degrees1 the soft ball must be softer2 if two hundred and forty degrees1 the soft ball not so soft4 ,thus1 without the thermometer1 the thermometer readings form a scale which makes easier the application of the old tests4 ,be it noted that the thermometer is no more necessary in vegetable candy-making than in the traditional sort4 ,,iv ,,the ,,use ,,of ,,steam ,,in ,,candy-,,making4 ,steam may be used so that it will be of much help to amateur candy-makers1 few of whom realize its possibilities4 ,these possibilities1 which range from actual cooking to the maintenance of the minimum of heat1 may all be grouped under four processes4 ,first1 to steam3 ,steaming is cooking by moist heat but not immersing the material in the water as in the boiling process4 ,it should be followed to soften dried fruits or other ingredients1 as often required by candy receipts4 ,the best way is to place the materials upon a rack supported a couple of inches above the water in the cooking vessel1 covering it tightly and placing it on the fire4 ,the confined vapor will soon soften whatever is within the vessel4 ,second1 the double boiler3 ,the double boiler is of particular value when protective cooking is desired4 ,this method will hold all juices present but neither adds moisture nor dries out existing moisture as happens when the mixture is over a direct blaze4 ,in this way1 the materials can be heated without burning4 ,it is of particular value with materials that need heat but need no further moisture--simply the development of that moisture which they already have4 ,third1 a modification of the use of the double boiler by leaving off the cover3 ,thus the temperature is lowered and the actual cooking operation lengthened4 ,vapors that may arise from the cooking mass are allowed to escape instead of being absorbed4 ,fourth1 the steam bath3 ,the steam bath is obtained by placing the receptacle containing the mass over a smaller vessel containing boiling water4 ,in this way1 the steam is applied only to the bottom of the receptacle and its intensity may be varied4 ,the lowest possible heat may be applied2 temperatures far below the boiling point1 or even the cooking point1 are made possible4 ,the temperature of the upper dish is regulated by the distance from the direct heat of vessel containing the water4 ,always start with boiling water so that the material treated will be affected only by the heat of the steam and not the direct heat which is bringing the water to the boiling point4 ,this method is particularly valuable for keeping fondant and other masses moderately hot for dipping1 or for melting chocolate or bon-bon creams1 which should be melted at less than one hundred degrees4 ,v ,,crystallization ,one often wonders why the candy-eating public has the chocolate habit4 ,the answer is simple4 ,the manufacturer generally offers the public chocolates4 ,to one not conversant with candy-making1 it is not so easy1 however1 to explain why the candy-maker offers the chocolates largely to the exclusion of other confections4 ,to the initiated1 however1 the matter is simple indeed4 ,chocolate makes an air-tight covering that protects all sides alike4 ,it makes it possible to keep candy not intended for immediate consumption and to ship it from one place to another without injury4 ,without it1 the manufacturer would be in a bad way indeed4 ,the confectioner1 then1 has fostered the chocolate habit because it is useful to him4 ,crystallization enables the candy-cook to put ordinary cream and sugar mixtures into good society dress and make them a pleasure to the people who are not devoted to chocolate4 ,although the crystal coated confection may not stand some of the harder tests that the chocolate coated candy will withstand1 it will be found sufficiently reliable to mark a very great advance in candy-making1 particularly in home candy-making4 ,and after all1 the basic mixtures in home-made candy are not so very different from those in the candy of the professional manufacturer4 ,the home candy-cook1 the small maker and the professional manufacturer1 who is1 of course1 far better equipped for crystallizing than either of the others1 can1 after a careful study of the different degrees of sugar crystallizing1 make almost any candy as satisfactory in texture and appearance1 and as easy to handle1 as are the chocolate confections4 ,a sufficient number of dippings in the crystal accomplishes the result4 ,one part water and three parts sugar1 is the slogan of the crystallizer4 ,this is the composition of any crystal syrup4 ,although crystal syrups differ only in the temperature to which they are raised1 their foundation is invariable4 ,as long as the proportions are kept the same1 the quantities do not matter much--theoretically4 ,practically1 however1 one cupful of sugar and one-third of a cupful of water is about as much as can be handled effectively at one time4 ,the success of the process lies in repeated dippings4 ,with each immersion1 the confection takes to itself a little more syrup2 it thus acquires a heavier coating of the protective covering4 ,the actual process is very simple4 ,each piece is separately dropped into the syrup and1 after thorough immersion1 is lifted out with a wire dipper1 the surplus syrup allowed to run off1 and placed for drying upon a wire screen4 ,in the pages that follow1 frequent use is made of crystallization4 ,in each case1 the degree to which the syrup is to be heated is given4 ,it must be understood1 be it noted1 that this simple crystal dipping does not make the candy2 it merely adds a protective and beautifying covering4 ,the candy1 already complete in a way1 is dipped into the mixture of sugar and water4 ,in the process that follows1 however1 the crystallization is of a different and more fundamental sort4 ,in this second case1 the crystallization is the method of making the candy completely4 ,for small candies1 a novel modification of ,french hand crystallization is useful because the process can be put to good use in the many sorts of candy-making4 ,the candy-cook can well afford to make herself master of it4 ,she should know1 however1 that the process is not so difficult as the description of it would indicate4 ,although the labor must be done on six successive days1 the work requires but a very few moments except upon the first day4 ,the result desired is a slow crystallization which thoroughly cooks the base so treated and preserves it perfectly4 ,in addition1 the process ensures an appearance attractive to the eye and a flavor equally attractive to the palate4 ,a drying rack and a pan are the only utensils that are necessary4 ,they should be of a size so that the rack will drop about one-half way into the pan and be upheld by the sloping sides4 ,note that the pan must be reserved for crystallization4 ,if it is used for other purposes1 it is likely to absorb flavors that will work havoc with the delicate confectionery that is placed within it4 ,make a syrup by boiling one part of water and three parts of granulated sugar for ten minutes4 ,thereupon place in it the base to be treated by this process4 ,that all the pieces may be very thoroughly separated1 stir the mass carefully with a wooden paddle2 it is absolutely necessary that all the surfaces of all of the mass come into direct contact with the hot syrup4 ,all that is necessary1 however1 is that each piece be thoroughly immersed in the hot syrup2 in a surprisingly short space of time1 the little pieces of confectionery will be heated through4 ,have the rack in position in the pan2 over it1 pour the hot mass--syrup and all4 ,see that the candy is evenly distributed over the rack4 ,immediately place a board over the pan2 a molding board will do very well indeed4 ,if a tin cover were used in place of the wooden1 the steam would condense and drop back on to the candy instead of being absorbed4 ,after the pan has been left undisturbed for a full day1 lift the rack out and pour the syrup into a suitable receptacle1 cook to two hundred and twenty degrees and place in it again the candy4 ,take the crystal from the fire4 ,stir carefully1 making sure that each piece is thoroughly immersed4 ,place the rack in the pan as directed above1 and again pour over it the syrup with the candy in it4 ,note1 however1 that it is necessary that the wire netting be free from hardened particles of the syrup4 ,cleanliness1 almost to the point of chemical purity1 is necessary4 ,this process must be repeated four times more1 but each time the mass should be cooked two degrees higher--in each case1 twenty-four hours must elapse between each treatment4 ,after the last operation1 the candy should be allowed to dry on the racks4 ,the result will be found well worth the time expended4 ,,vi ,,chocolate ,,coating ,the ability to handle chocolate successfully is a great assistance to the maker of vegetable candy4 ,although chocolate coating is no more an essential in vegetable candy-making than in the old fashioned kind1 there are very many times when the ability to use it effectively will be very useful to the confectioner4 ,in either sort of candy-making1 it is but a finish--as acceptable a finish to the one as to the other4 ,many people like the flavor of chocolate1 and it is extremely serviceable because it furnishes a uniform covering for confections4 ,thus1 when chocolate coated candies rub against one another in the box in which they are packed1 their uniformity prevents their taking to themselves strange flavors and colors4 ,no candy-maker should scorn to make herself master of the intricacies of chocolate coating4 ,the best instructor in chocolate coating is a few pounds of chocolate1 firm1 well-shaped centers1 an allowance of time and interest1 plenty of good common sense and inclination to profit by the hints given below4 ,with the knowledge that will be accumulated after a few trials1 the candy-maker will soon be able to give to her candy the niceties of the professional product4 ,the confectioner can well begin with nuts1 or some other hard centers1 for they are comparatively easy to handle4 ,by handling them1 she will soon gain the experience necessary to the successful finishing of other textures4 ,from surprisingly little experimentation1 she will obtain sufficient skill to handle successfully almost any center that will take the covering4 ,a thorough general knowledge of the behavior of chocolate and a clear understanding of the behavior of the stock on hand are of more value than the methods of application of the coating4 ,since no two lots of chocolate are exactly the same1 it is well to buy a fairly large supply at one time4 ,in this way it is possible when handling the first batch to learn the peculiarities of all the chocolate purchased and thereafter to handle the stock with assurance4 ,for good results it is well to buy the regular coating chocolate which is sold by many grocery and specialty stores for just this purpose4 ,if coating chocolate cannot be obtained1 ordinary baking chocolate sweetened with confectioner's sugar can be substituted1 but the substitution is to be avoided1 for the finished work is sure to be inferior4 ,in all sorts of candy-making1 climatic conditions are of the utmost importance4 ,in no other branch of cooking is the cook so dependent upon the weather4 ,in muggy weather it is impossible to do good work2 often1 indeed1 it is impossible to do any work at all4 ,therefore1 it is of the utmost importance that the confectioner yield respectful obedience to the humidity4 ,this warning is of particular weight in connection with the handling of chocolate4 ,even if the day is only slightly rainy1 or foggy1 do not try to use chocolate4 ,even experts do not defy this law1 but since they work under commercial conditions1 they are generally able absolutely to control the atmosphere4 ,the room in which the actual operation of coating is conducted should be warm and dry4 ,first1 break into small pieces more chocolate than you will actually use in the coating4 ,put these lumps in a dish set over hot water and melt them slowly at a low temperature4 ,to do this most effectually the water should previously have been boiled and the steam allowed to subside4 ,of course1 the water must be very hot when the dish with the chocolate is placed over it4 ,as the first piece melts1 stir slowly from time to time4 ,when the chocolate has melted1 remove the dish from the heat and work all of the oil globules from the mass4 ,this is accomplished not by hard or rapid motion1 but by perseveringly and persuasively smoothing the mass until it is sufficiently cool4 ,these oil globules1 be it noted1 must be treated with the greatest respect4 ,if they become over heated1 they are likely to require much more work1 even if they do not ruin the batch4 ,in studying this melting process1 it is well to think of the action of heat upon butter4 ,suppose1 for illustration1 it is desired to cream a lump of cold butter4 ,if much heat is applied to the butter the outside immediately becomes running grease4 ,it is possible that the cooler inside portion of the lump may be beaten into it1 but the result will not be smooth4 ,on the other hand1 if the butter is allowed to soften gradually under the influence of moderate warmth1 the whole mass would melt uniformly and could be beaten into the desired smoothness4 ,the warning that water must not be allowed accidentally to enter the chocolate cannot be too often repeated4 ,probably this is the surest test as to whether or not the chocolate is ready for the dipping3 ,drop a center into the mass so that it will be covered with the chocolate1 remove the surplus either by pulling it over the edge of the dish1 or by shaking1 and let the drop fall squarely upon the sheet of special confectioner's glazed paper1 or of oilcloth1 or oiled paper1 upon which it is to be cooled4 ,take care lest the piece slips when dropped4 ,if it does slip1 the base will have a thin projection that may break off and1 even if it does not render the coating pervious1 become unsightly4 ,if the candy-maker is careful and the coating has been worked sufficiently and has been allowed to become sufficiently cool1 the base will form squarely and evenly and the chocolate immediately will become firm4 ,in other words1 the candies should begin to set at once without forming projecting bases as soon as they are dropped upon the sheet upon which they are to dry4 ,although chocolates should be covered in a warm room1 they should be cooled as rapidly as possible4 ,as soon as they are finished1 they should be placed upon a small tray and removed to a cool place4 ,the small tray is desirable since by its use the candies can be quickly transferred4 ,in summer the tray should be placed in the refrigerator1 but should not be allowed to remain for more than five minutes4 ,if the chocolate coated confections are kept upon the ice for longer than that time1 they will soon be covered by a sweat that will ruin them4 ,after the coated drops have become cold1 the candy-maker should examine them carefully4 ,if the bases have spread1 she can assume that the chocolate was not cooled sufficiently or that the surplus was not effectively removed4 ,if the coating is streaked or light colored1 she will know that the chocolate was not worked sufficiently1 or that the drops did not cool quickly enough after they were coated4 ,if the candy becomes sticky when it is brought into a warm room1 the verdict will be that the oil was not properly worked into the mass4 ,in the chapters that follow1 there are described many candies that offer desirable combinations with chocolate4 ,in fact1 the vegetable flavors are quite as adaptable to chocolate coating as are those that have already won popular attention and favor4 ,occasionally1 in the subsequent pages1 mention is made of the fact that the confection described may well be covered with chocolate1 but more often chocolate coating is not suggested when it is possible4 ,it is assumed1 and no doubt safely assumed1 that the candy-cook1 from her experience in the old-fashioned confectionery1 will know what candy can be coated1 and what cannot be successfully coated4 ,,vii ,,sugar ,no discussion of candy or candy-making is complete without a statement concerning sugar--its kinds1 value and proper use4 ,without doubt sugar is one of the most maligned of foods4 ,it does do damage when eaten at the wrong time or to excess4 ,from this fact springs one of the great advantages of vegetable candy2 in it the proportion of sugar to the bulk of the confection is so reduced that the normal craving for sweets is satisfied without the consumption of a quantity of sugar that insures disaster4 ,experimentation long ago showed that sugar is the quickest source of energy in the whole list of available foods4 ,no other food approximates sugar in the ease in which it can be formed into actual body energy4 ,this fact has long been appreciated by athletes4 ,one case in proof was that of two school boys seventeen and nineteen years of age1 who had only two hours a day for two months for practice before rowing races in which both were entered4 ,no change was made in their diet except they were permitted to eat as much sugar as they wished1 sometimes as much as one-third of a pound a day4 ,one of them1 however1 did not begin to eat this excess sugar until the third week of his practicing1 when he began to show the signs of over training--loss of weight and no desire for either exercise or study4 ,on the third day after beginning the use of the excess sugar these symptoms disappeared1 and he became as vigorous as the other4 ,before the time for the race both youths were in the best of physical condition and were victorious over their antagonists who did not believe in the use of sugar4 ,subsequently1 observation revealed no bad after effects4 ,similar instances could be indefinitely repeated4 ,the fundamental fact--that sugar gives energy and gives it with great rapidity--has been made use of by army officers1 particularly ,german4 ,it must be remembered1 however1 that sugar is purely an energy-producing food4 ,it is necessary1 then1 that there be other foods consumed with it in order to preserve a proper balance4 ,these other foods1 be it noted1 are present in vegetable candy4 ,the current idea that sugar is fattening is wholly wrong4 ,it is not sugar that is fattening1 but too much sugar4 ,only when sugar is consumed in a quantity in excess of that which can be taken care of by the human commissary department1 is it transformed into fat and stored as reserved material4 ,the methods of refining sugar have been so perfected within the last few years that it is safe to say that few food substances in commercial use are so near to being chemically pure as granulated sugars of good grade4 ,no less an authority than ,blythe says1 ,loaf sugar is1 as a rule1 chemically pure4 ,it is probably1 indeed1 the purest of all substances in commerce1 and a large quantity may be burnt up without obtaining a trace of nitrogen and without leaving any residue4 ,the only sugar that may be impure are the raw sugars4 ,it is commonly known that sugar may come from any one of numberless sources4 ,sugar of milk is the first sugar with which members of the human race become acquainted1 but one which1 of course1 is of little account in candy-making4 ,the sugar of fruits is in an easily accessible form and one which is of particular value when combined with cane sugar4 ,honey as stored by the honey bee formerly was highly prized for food value1 but now that it is so often stored by the factory without any activity on the part of the honey bee1 and now that cane sugar is so very cheap1 it is not so much in demand4 ,for the sugar of candy-making1 there are three sources3 the sugar cane1 sugar beet and the sugar maple4 ,for practical purposes1 maple sugar may be left out of the discussion4 ,ever since sugar has been made on a commercial scale from beets there has waged a controversy as to the relative merits of beet sugar and cane sugar4 ,as far as the amateur candy-maker is concerned1 however1 the controversy is not of practical interest1 for almost all of the sugar that is sold in small quantities is made from beets4 ,indeed1 it is said that it is practically impossible for the housekeeper to obtain sugar made from cane4 ,moreover1 notwithstanding the popular impression that cane sugar is preferable1 scientists insist that in every case the pure cane sugar1 or saccharose1 can be crystallized out from either cane or beet1 and that the sugar is identical in chemical composition1 appearance and properties4 ,by no chemical test known to the ,united ,states ,department of ,agriculture can pure crystallized saccharose from these different sources be distinguished4 ,the popular impression to the contrary probably comes from the use of beet sugar that has been imperfectly purified4 ,it is interesting to note that there are over ninety grades of sugar known to commerce4 ,the difference between these grades is often so slight that it is impossible to distinguish without painstaking laboratory analysis4 ,in this book white sugar and confectioner's sugar are used wherever possible because they are the purest kinds4 ,brown sugar and coffee ,a41 much used in candy-making1 are grades which have not been refined to so high a point4 ,a word should be said concerning glucose4 ,the complaint which has been made in connection with glucose has not been made against the substance itself1 but against the way it was used4 ,the amateur candy-maker1 however1 often has difficulty in obtaining glucose1 even though in some processes it is most useful4 ,r4 ,e4 ,doolittle of the ,federal ,board of ,food and ,drug ,inspection1 declares that no question of harmfulness has been raised by this board with respect to the use of glucose in food products4 ,where glucose is substituted for sugar and used instead of natural sweetening agents1 the ruling has been made that its presence should be plainly declared upon the label of the product4 ,the reasons for this action are3 7#a7 where a manufactured substance is substituted for a natural one it is believed that the purchaser is entitled to be informed of the substitution2 7#b7 the cost of glucose is usually somewhat lower than that of sucrose2 7#c7 glucose consists only in part of a sugar1 dextrose1 and is inferior to sucrose in sweetening power4 ,in this country commercial glucose is manufactured from the starch of the ,indian corn4 ,the starch is suspended in water1 the whole placed into large steam tanks together with some hydrochloric acid1 the steam is turned on to these tanks and the whole brought up to a heavy pressure4 ,by this means the starch is partially converted into dextrose1 a sugar1 and dextrin1 a gum4 ,when the conversion has reached the proper point the pressure is removed1 the hot liquid is neutralized with sodium carbonate1 filtered and evaporated to a thick liquid4 ,the resulting compound contains about #ce per cent4 dextrose1 about #de per cent4 dextrin1 a small percentage of ash and the rest water4 ,a word of caution should be given concerning the time of eating sugar4 ,obviously if candy is consumed before meals it will destroy the appetite and interfere seriously with the meal4 ,obviously1 also1 it is unwise to eat heavily of candy before retiring4 ,notwithstanding her enthusiasm for vegetable candies the writer feels these cautions should be just as much observed with vegetable candy as with any other4 ,the whole question of the amount and form of sugar to be given to children1 is one of utmost importance4 ,children lose more heat from the skin for every pound of body weight than do the adults1 and because of this fact1 require proportionately more heat4 ,this heat can come only from food and sugar is the food which produces this heat most directly and most cheaply4 ,this need for a heat producing food1 it could be urged1 could be readily met by the use of fat4 ,the difficulty is that fat1 and particularly fat meat1 is generally disliked by the child4 ,because of this distaste1 his desire for all sorts of sweet things has undoubtedly a physiological basis4 ,it is necessary1 however1 to observe very carefully the digestibility of sugar and sweetened foods in order to decide to what extent sugar is to replace starch in the dietary4 ,the effect of sugar upon the appetite for other foods must be given particular care4 ,mrs4 ,mary ,hinman ,abel1 president of the ,american ,home ,economics ,association1 says that1 until a child's stomach is capable of digesting starch1 the needed carbohydrate is furnished in the sugar of milk4 ,the child a year old who drinks two quarts of milk per day takes in this way about three ounces of sugar4 ,as the stomach becomes able to digest starch1 ,mrs4 ,abel continues1 the child is less and less dependent on the sugar of milk1 replacing it with the carbohydrates of vegetable origin1 while the proteids and fat found in eggs1 meat1 and cereals take the place of those constituents that were at first exclusively furnished in milk4 ,milk1 however1 remains through childhood a valuable source of all these food principles4 ,the fact that sugar has a high food value is not the only point to be considered4 ,the child will easily obtain the needed carbohydrates in other forms and will thrive if the digestion remains sound and its relish for wholesome food unimpaired4 ,for instance1 one often hears it said that a certain child does not relish milk4 ,in such cases it might be found that the child's appetite1 being sated by sugar in other foods1 is no longer attracted by the mild sweetness of fresh milk1 delicious as it is to the unspoiled palate4 ,it would be well1 perhaps1 in this instance1 to cut down the allowance of sugar in the hope of restoring the taste for so invaluable a food as milk4 ,dr4 ,rotch insists that the infant1 even in its second year1 should never be allowed to taste sweets4 ,he says1 ',when these articles are withheld it will continue to have a healthy appetite and taste for necessary and proper articles of food4' ,even much later1 for the same reasons1 the introduction of large amounts of sugar into the daily food of children is to be carefully considered4 ,children do not require a variety of flavors to stimulate the appetite1 but the taste is easily perverted and the backward step is difficult to take4 ,those who have studied the food habits of children seem to agree that sugar should from the very first be withheld from the dish that forms the staple food of the child--that is1 the mush or porridge of oatmeal or some preparation of wheat or corn4 ,this article of diet1 eaten only with milk or cream1 falls into the same class as bread and milk1 and forms the simple1 wholesome basis of a meal4 ,the sugar given the child is better furnished in the occasional simple pudding1 in the lump of sugar1 or home-made candy1 not that its food value is better utilized1 but the whole food of the child is thus more wholesome4 ,mrs4 ,mary ,hinman ,abel concludes her discussion with the statement3 ,sugar is a useful and valuable food4 ,it must1 however1 be remembered that it is a concentrated food and therefore should be eaten in moderate quantities4 ,further1 like other concentrated foods1 sugar seems best fitted for assimilation by the body when supplied with other materials which dilute it or give it the necessary bulk4 ,it is this fact1 from the point of view of the dietitian1 that commends vegetable candy so highly4 ,the vegetable base gives the necessary bulk and dilution--in addition to adding other valuable food elements4 ,,section ,,two ,,viii ,,decorative ,,candies ,i4 ,,from ,,potato ,,paste ,now that the use of vegetable bases is reduced to principles1 the amateur confectioner need have no difficulty in working out in candy attractive and novel designs suitable to all special days and uses4 ,and the best of it is--thanks to such a humble vegetable as the potato--she can follow her own ideas and fashion in confectionery a pattern that is all her own4 ,moreover1 she can take comfort in the thought that in her product there is none of the highly injurious ingredients unfortunately all too common in some decorative candies4 ,as the foundation for one sort of decorative confectionery1 potato paste must be made4 ,steam or boil ,irish potatoes1 drain them1 and force them through a fine sieve1--the finer the better4 ,with one-half cupful of ,irish potato1 so prepared1 mix one tablespoonful of corn starch4 ,gradually and carefully work in enough confectioner's sugar so that the mixture can be rolled4 ,the fine sieve1 be it noted1 plays a conspicuous and important part in the making of candy from vegetables4 ,moreover1 it should be borne in mind that no vegetable particle will either soften in or cook up into syrup4 ,while cooking1 the vegetable particles are just as individual as though they were in separate vessels2 consequently they must be kept circulating as uniformly as is possible through the syrup in order to prevent the accumulation of masses of vegetable matter of sufficient bulk and weight to sink to the bottom of the sauce pan and cause the mixture to burn4 ,moreover1 should the mixture escape burning1 it would develop gluey spots that would make the finished product lacking in the smoothness that is the ideal of the candy-cook4 ,flavor and color this paste to suit1 place it on a surface well dusted with confectioner's sugar and roll it to the desired thinness4 ,cut it in shapes to suit4 ,cooky cutters or any other tin cutters may be used4 ,more often1 however1 the amateur confectioner will prefer her own design4 ,cut a pattern of the desired design from paper1 or1 if it is to be used repeatedly1 from paste board4 ,oiling the pattern not only gives it a firmer edge and prevents tearing but also allows any sugar or paste that may have adhered to it easily to be wiped off4 ,lay the pattern over the paste1 and1 with a sharp pointed knife1 cut along the edges4 ,lift the newly cut forms carefully with a thin knife and transfer them for drying to an oil cloth or1 if this cannot be done1 to a waxed paper or a tin very thinly dusted with confectioner's sugar4 ,do not move them again until they are dry4 ,if it is desired to pack the candy1 cook a crystal--a crystal is a syrup of one part water and three parts sugar--to two hundred and twenty degrees and after it has cooled five minutes1 dip the confection into it4 ,it is not essential that the forms be dipped into the crystal nor is the crystal absolutely necessary to any of the confections that are often coated with it4 ,all this is explained in ,chapter ,v--,crystallization4 ,a knife which is of almost constant use in making decorative candies and which is particularly satisfactory for lifting small forms is a palette knife such as artists use for mixing their colors4 ,it is thin1 flexible and sufficiently sharp for cutting fondant4 ,also the blade lends itself to use in many different positions because its curved shape allows the hand a degree of freedom not possible with the ordinary knife4 ,the palette knife is much better for freeing or lifting forms from a flat surface than a spatula or a case knife4 ,the imagination of the candy-maker will suggest special designs for special occasions4 ,the fancy of the confectioner will suggest many attractive original forms1 besides the traditional red and white hearts for ,st4 ,valentine's ,day1--note illustration ,no4 #ag in the frontispiece--the green shamrock for ,march #ag1 and the hatchet for ,washington's birthday4 ,christmas1 ,new ,years1 ,easter1 ,memorial ,day1 ,fourth of ,july1 ,labor ,day1 ,columbus ,day1 ,hallowe'en and innumerable local holidays1 like ,bunker ,hill day and ,patriots' ,day of ,massachusetts1--all of these special occasions offer abundant opportunity to the candy-maker who realizes that from the paste can be made representations of anything from a firecracker to a regiment of soldiers4 ,cooky cutters may also be used indefinitely2 what child would not like candy in the form of stars1 dogs1 horses1 and trees8 ,green ,leaves4--,an excellent illustration of the possibilities of potato paste is given by green leaves4 ,as the basis for them1 color potato paste green1 by the use of green coloring paste1 of the harmless vegetable sort1 and flavor fairly strongly with peppermint4 ,roll the paste thin1 cut out the leaves1 using the point of a knife or a tin cutter1 and model the veins4 ,a small1 blunt1 wooden tool1--even a clean orange stick will do--should be used to make the depressions that are the veins4 ,after the leaves have dried on waxed paper1 dip into a crystal cooked to two hundred and twenty-five degrees4 ,drain them on a wire rack and dust them evenly with granulated sugar4 ,it is well to use a thin bladed knife to lift the pieces4 ,see the small box in the middle of the illustration facing page #ih1 and ,no4 #a in the frontispiece4 ,,ii4 ,,violets ,violets4--,in hot weather violets do not take kindly to the candying process1 and in cold they are expensive and hard to get4 ,there are no such limitations1 however1 to pop-corn and cocoanut4 ,violets made from them are especially good ,christmas candies1 because they are decorative and can be made a month or six weeks in advance--long before the last rush4 ,pop-corn ,violets4--,using the hard spots for centers1 jam and break well-blown kernels of pop-corn until they resemble violets1 as they will do with more exactness than would be thought4 ,boil one cupful of sugar and one-third cupful of water until a syrup is formed2 the thermometer should register two hundred and nineteen degrees4 ,after the syrup is cool1 dip the pop-corn into it1 making sure that the liquid forms an even and complete covering4 ,as a thin crust begins to cover the syrup1 keep pushing it down into the liquid4 ,if this is done the syrup can all be used before it has time to harden4 ,immediately after the surplus has drained off1 dredge lightly with powdered sugar1 into which has been worked violet coloring paste1 previously moistened with a few drops of violet extract1 or even water4 ,in this case the colored sugar should be a shade or two lighter than is desired for the finished product1 as the syrup darkens the color4 ,note ,no4 #b of the frontispiece4 ,cocoanut ,violets4--,mix the white of an egg1 one-half cupful confectioner's sugar--the kind sometimes known as ,,xxxx--and one-half cupful of ,irish potato prepared as directed above4 ,this makes more candy than the home confectioner ordinarily has use for1 but directions for a smaller amount cannot well be given owing to the practical impossibility of dividing an egg4 ,an easy way out of the difficulty1 however1 is to use as much of this mixture as is desired for the violets and to save the rest for use in making potato fondant1 described hereafter4 ,flavor this mixture with violet extract4 ,add the color with the extract1 but remember that a little will go a long way4 ,use vegetable violet coloring paste until the color is a shade or two darker than is desired for the finished product4 ,stir in cocoanut until all the mass adheres to the cocoanut4 ,baker's cocoanut is better than the shredded1 but often the shredded must be used1 as the other size is becoming more and more difficult to obtain4 ,if the shredded is used1 break it so that each piece will not be more than one-half inch long4 ,if the mixture does not then dry readily1 stir in more confectioner's sugar4 ,to fashion the violets1 dip the fingers into cold water1 take up a quantity of the preparation about the size of a violet1 and model into the shape of the flower4 ,a little practice will enable the candy-maker to form objects that look more like violets than do the flowers themselves after they have been put through the candying process4 ,sift granulated sugar over each flower1 shaking off surplus sugar4 ,dry on waxed paper4 ,this confection would better be used within two or three weeks4 ,violet ,boutonniere4--,from violets1 preferably cocoanut1 boutonnieres very attractive for favors can be fashioned4 ,have ready a supply of the violets1 candied cress leaves1 violet1 green or tinsel foil1 lace paper mats1--small paper doilies may be substituted1--and number twenty-two wire4 ,it is well to cut wires six inches long for they can later be trimmed or bent to form a stem of from three and one-half to four inches long4 ,with a fine needle puncture the back of a cocoanut violet and insert the end of a piece of wire4 ,to make the union firm1 place a drop of thick syrup at the point at which the wire enters the mixture4 ,seven violets so treated will be sufficient for one boutonniere4 ,in a similar manner1 wire one less of the crystallized cress leaves4 ,put all the wires through the center of the mat4 ,group the violets about one placed in the center4 ,as nearly all mats come with an even number of designs in the edge1 it is much easier to arrange the boutonniere if the row of flowers next the mat contains an even number also4 ,the leaves should be so arranged in a row underneath the flowers4 ,before an attractive arrangement can be made1 some little experimenting may be necessary4 ,wrap the wires with tissue paper and cover with foil4 ,the making of the boutonnieres is not so difficult as it sounds1 though some knack is required for the best results4 ,see the illustration opposite page #gb4 ,,iii4 ,,from ,,potato ,,fondant ,uncooked ,fondant4--,potato fondant is another base--even more useful than potato paste--upon which many confections may be built4 ,there are two kinds--cooked and uncooked4 ,to make the uncooked1 boil or steam ,irish potatoes1 drain1 and force them through a fine sieve4 ,in all candy-making with potatoes1 these directions are of the utmost importance4 ,unless the potato is carefully forced through a fine sieve1 the candy made from it will have hard and gluey spots after it has dried out4 ,mix one-half cupful of the potato so prepared with the unbeaten white of one egg4 ,add gradually confectioner's sugar until the whole mass assumes the consistency of bon-bon cream4 ,several uses for potato fondant will be described below1 but it may be substituted for ,french fondant in any of the confections of which that is a part4 ,cooked ,potato ,fondant4--,with one-half cupful of potato1 prepared as for the uncooked fondant1 very thoroughly mix two cupsful of sugar and thin with two-thirds of a cupful of milk4 ,place the mixture on an asbestos mat over the fire and cook until thick--to the sticking point4 ,pour the mass on a cold1 damp marble and cut in like plain fondant4 ,knead small quantities at a time until the whole batch is smooth4 ,pack in tins lined with wax paper4 ,the fondant can be used without additional sugar and does not stick to the hands4 ,it is particularly useful as a covering4 ,modeled ,candy4--,modeled candy is easy to make1 good to look at and good to eat4 ,when shaped to imitate fruit or vegetables1 it is useful as table decoration1 and is always welcome for children's parties4 ,indeed1 there is no sort of candy that is surer of a warm welcome by young or old6 ,the difficulty has been1 however1 that modeling with almond paste requires the use of ingredients that are very expensive and very often difficult to obtain4 ,this has made experimenting in modeling rather expensive for the unskilled home candy-maker4 ,potato fondant1 on the other hand1 is inexpensive and so easily obtained that the amateur need not count the cost of failures while she experiments4 ,by following the directions carefully very little practice in the modeling will give her a facility that removes her from the class of unskilled modelers4 ,if she prefers to use almond paste1 the home candy-maker may do her practicing with potato fondant4 ,moreover1 many young women have studied clay modeling and to them the modeling of candy is indeed simple4 ,while the modeled candy that is sold in candy stores often--though not always--contains harmful substances1 potato fondant is absolutely wholesome4 ,potato fondant shows particular superiority over the almond paste in the making of small objects and all fine and thin work4 ,the results are as attractive to the palate as to the eye1 although candy modeled from potato fondant does not have the peculiar oily richness of the products fashioned from almond paste4 ,for one batch take as much of the uncooked potato fondant as the work in hand calls for4 ,into it work all the sugar that it will take4 ,stop the kneading just as soon as the mixture shows a tendency to crumble4 ,model it into any form desired4 ,it is best not to make the pieces too large4 ,the modeling may be done with the small clay modeling tool now common in kindergartens and technical schools1 or with a clean orange stick4 ,a thin sheet of glass will be found exceedingly satisfactory upon which to model4 ,as the glass is thin1 intricate flowers of many petals1 for instance1 can be slipped off with little disturbance4 ,use a thin knife to loosen and lift only slightly1 slipping each model off with as little handling as possible4 ,another advantage is that the glass can easily be washed4 ,coloring4--,the vegetable coloring pastes which are sold for use in cooking are harmless4 ,a set of the small jars ordinarily sold for ten cents a jar will probably be enough for any candy that the amateur may make in one season4 ,the colors generally in the set are fruit red1 leaf green1 golden yellow1 caramel1 violet1 damask1 rose1 mandarin1 orange blue1 salmon and chestnut4 ,these pastes may be used in three ways4 ,they may be cooked or worked into a candy mixture or they may be used very much the same as water color pigments and applied with a brush4 ,in the first method it is well to remember that the shade should be mixed a little heavier than desired and must be very thoroughly mixed if used in fondant or prepared compounds4 ,the rules of color combination prevail here as everywhere4 ,so if grades of tone or different colors are desired almost any wish may be met by combination of color4 ,to get just the tone desired1 after mixing the colors dissolve a small portion in water and then dip into this liquid a lump of sugar4 ,if the tint is not the right one1 it is easily changed4 ,any shade of green may be obtained by mixing blue and yellow with leaf green4 ,all shades of orange are obtainable from yellow and red4 ,all shades of violet or mauve or even purple for deep violets may be made from red and blue in different proportions4 ,if the color in your candy is not clear and uniform it is because it has not been thoroughly mixed4 ,to avoid spots it must be evenly incorporated through the entire mass4 ,if this does not seem possible with coloring paste1 dissolve in a little warm water and then add it to the fondant or prepared compound4 ,in applying with the brush use the wash methods much as in water color work and the shading will be much more artistic and the variety much greater4 ,apply a medium shade uniformly and let thoroughly dry and then shade with light and darker tones4 ,do not use much water1 as the surface of the candy does not absorb the water as does water color paper4 ,white ,daisy4--,this makes an unusually pretty modeled piece1 as will be seen from the illustration facing page #ach1 and from ,no4 #ac of the frontispiece4 ,white potato fondant is used for the petals and candied orange peel for the center1 and angelique for the stem and leaves4 ,flavor the potato fondant with one of the stronger extracts such as peppermint1 cinnamon or cloves4 ,if desired it may be used without flavoring1 but the more delicate flavors are not so pleasing4 ,mix enough sugar with the fondant for it to mold smoothly and easily and hold its shape4 ,upon a clean piece of glass1 or oil cloth1 if glass is not easily obtainable1 place a piece of angelique of a size suitable for the stem4 ,to form the petals roll pieces of potato fondant between the fingers4 ,properly arrange these petals around the center4 ,press a piece of candied orange peel down upon the stem and petals4 ,this peel gives the yellow center of the daisy and acts as an additional means for holding the stem and petals together4 ,or1 yellow fondant may be substituted4 ,run a thin knife under the flower and lift it over the glass to an oil cloth placed over a board or to a piece of waxed paper and dry for twenty-four hours4 ,cook to two hundred and twenty degrees1 a syrup made of one cupful of sugar and one-third of a cupful of water2 pour this into a dish so that the syrup will be about an inch deep4 ,add to the daisies such leaves cut from angelique as may be desired and then dip into this liquid and lift upon a wire rack4 ,in the making of this as in all composite models the crystal syrup--one cupful of sugar and one-third cupful of water cooked to two hundred and twenty degrees--is an essential asset for gluing purposes4 ,a small bristle brush is good for applying1 but care must be used as in using glue not to use too much of the syrup4 ,the syrup1 when dry1 will hold the leaves to the stem4 ,if the amateur confectioner is very conscientious1 she may improve the looks of the flowers by coloring the outside edges of the centers lightly with sugar--first a little brown and then a touch of yellow placed there with the pointed end of the modeling stick4 ,before the flowers have thoroughly set1 free them from the wires of the rack4 ,shortly after the dipping1 when as much of the syrup as will has run off the flowers1 run the fingers along the under side of the rack springing the wires under each piece4 ,this method not only frees the flowers but it rids them of undue accumulations of the syrup4 ,otherwise1 the wires would dry into the candies1 which would be broken upon their removal4 ,leave on the rack until dry4 ,yellow ,daisy4--,yellow daisies may be made by coloring the white potato fondant or by making fresh fondant1 using the yolk of the egg in place of the white4 ,the fondant made of the yolk will not model quite so readily but coloring is unnecessary4 ,form the yellow daisy as the white1 but use a small raisin for the center1 instead of the piece of orange peel4 ,no colored sugar is necessary4 ,crystallize as before4 ,if exceptionally bright and clear colors are desired1 the flowers may be dipped twice into a thin crystal instead of once into an ordinary crystal4 ,use the same proportions of sugar and water--one cupful to one-third cupful cooked to only two hundred and twenty degrees4 ,into this dip the flowers after they are thoroughly dry1 and dry on a rack as before4 ,the next day dip them again into a crystal of the same sort4 ,dry as before4 ,the result will be glossy flowers1 free from crystals1 with particularly beautiful yellows and browns4 ,calla ,lily4--,this is particularly suitable for ,easter time4 ,for the stem1 use a small stick of angelique4 ,make the center from yellow fondant4 ,while still moist1 dip into granulated sugar4 ,see the illustration facing page #ach4 ,if the yellow fondant is not on hand1 a little of the ordinary white may be colored yellow and used4 ,it is hardly worth while to make up a batch of the special egg fondant for one set of lilies4 ,from the white potato fondant1 pat out rather thin pieces1 wrap them around the stem1 form the lily and curl the edges and make the pointed top and the front fold prominent4 ,if leaves are desired1 cut a long leaf from the angelique1 dip the stem end into thick syrup and fasten to the stem4 ,to make a perfect union1 cover the stem below the lily with syrup4 ,if the lilies are to be used for box trimmings1 do not make the stems very long and if leaves are used1 bring them up well onto or behind the flower to give added strength so that the stems will be unlikely to break at their juncture with the lily4 ,red ,apples4--,as dinner favors1 red apples are unusually effective4 ,for the foundation use pulled figs1 stuffed with any good mixture4 ,nuts and pitted dates may be used for the filling1 but the combination is a little too heavy4 ,marshmallows and pecan meats are preferable4 ,a third possibility is chopped nuts and figs4 ,whatever filling is used1 the method of its insertion is the same4 ,if the figs are dry1 steam them thoroughly4 ,make a slit in the side1 fill with the chosen mixture1 and pinch together the edges of the opening4 ,as the covering for the figs1 uncooked fondant must be used4 ,cinnamon is a popular flavoring4 ,color it with red paste4 ,at this stage in the process it should not be made the shade desired for the finished product1 but there should be enough of the red to overcome the dead white of the fondant4 ,in other words1 make the first coating much lighter than it otherwise would be4 ,into the uncooked fondant1 sugar must be worked until modeling is easy4 ,encase the stuffed fig in fondant4 ,the thickness of the coating will depend upon the size of the fig2 the finished product should be about the size of a real apple4 ,model the surface so that it looks as much like an apple as possible4 ,if it is desired to have the confection all edible1 use a piece of angelique for the stem2 a twig from a vine or bush really looks better1 however4 ,for the blossom end use a clove4 ,if the general directions given above are followed1 the result will be a surprising naturalness4 ,illustration3 ,fascinating to the ,child ,proceeding as directed on page #fd1 use the vegetable coloring pastes for the coloring4 ,as the red color paste is likely to have the magenta shade overmuch1 the first coating would better be of orange and the second of enough dark red to give the true apple red4 ,to intensify the color and leave the apple glossy1 brush it with crystal syrup cooked to two hundred and twenty degrees4 ,the syrup should be used while yet warm and should be applied smoothly4 ,by the use of other colors1 other sorts of apples can be made4 ,before being eaten1 these apples1 like real apples1 should be cut into sections4 ,see the illustration facing this page1 and ,no4 #bd of the frontispiece4 ,single ,roses4--,they may be pink1 red1 yellow or white4 ,the process in each case is the same except for the coloring and the flavoring4 ,take as much fondant as is needed for roses of one color and as the base1 use uncooked potato fondant4 ,divide it into three lots and color with paste the shade desired--the first so very faintly that its tint is just off the white1 the second a little deeper and the third deeper still4 ,always remember that immersion in hot syrup deepens the color4 ,remember1 too1 that the three lots of different shades are for roses of one color only4 ,for red roses1 use cinnamon flavor and red coloring4 ,for yellow roses1 use clove as flavoring and yellow as coloring4 ,yellow roses are shown as ,nos4 #c and #bf of the frontispiece4 ,be very careful not to use too much color4 ,for white roses1 use the plain fondant1 but after the rose has dried a touch of green must be added to give depth and character4 ,for pink roses1 use rose water as flavor and pink as coloring4 ,whatever the color of the rose1 form five petals1 curling the edges to imitate those of the natural rose1 and using different shades for different petals so that the rose will have natural variety of color4 ,at the center use a small piece of angelique2 a touch of darker green coloring to the center of the angelique gives the rose greater verisimilitude4 ,it is well to model them upon a sheet of glass and when completed lift on to a waxed paper to dry4 ,if the rose is a white one1 let it be remembered that it must be shaded with light green4 ,when the flowers are dry dip them into a crystal1 cooked to two hundred and twenty-five degrees4 ,use brown and yellow sugar to imitate the pollen around the green centers4 ,the pointed end of the wooden tool will be useful in placing these colored sugars4 ,they must be made to stand out clearly4 ,if too much syrup has collected around the center1 be sure to push it out with the blunt end of the tool before trying to put the sugar in place4 ,after the roses have dried1 they are ready to look at and eat4 ,rose ,buds4--,from potato fondant1 colored as desired1 model several small petals4 ,cut a piece of angelique to represent the stem and properly arrange the petals around one end of it and press them on4 ,the leaves and thorns are to be made from angelique and attached by pressing them to the stem using the crystal1 prepared for the dipping1 as glue4 ,the calyx1 made from angelique1 may be also so attached4 ,when the buds have dried dip them into a crystal cooked to two hundred and twenty-five degrees4 ,dry on racks4 ,the crystal will make stronger the union of petals1 leaves1 thorns and stem4 ,new ,potato4--,a particularly appropriate form in which to model the potato fondant is that of the new potato4 ,work the proper sized piece of fondant into as close an imitation as possible of the new potato4 ,as this new potato has perhaps more of the fondant than many people will wish to eat at one time1 several partial substitutions are possible4 ,that statement1 by the way1 is no reflection upon the fondant1 for any piece of candy1 no matter how good1 of the size of this is likely to be rather too much to be eaten at one time if of one flavor4 ,marshmallows1 pitted dates with nut meats1 pulled figs closely rolled1 or ,english walnut meats are some of the things that may well be used as centers4 ,whatever is used should be rolled in enough of the fondant to make pieces of the desired size and form and then immediately rolled in dry cocoa4 ,the result will be strikingly convincing--and good to eat4 ,pea ,pod4--,from fondant colored green1 a pea pod may be modeled1 split1 and the peas modeled and placed within4 ,when the forms are dry1 dip them in a crystal made by boiling one cupful of sugar and one-third cupful of water to two hundred and twenty degrees4 ,use care that the syrup does not settle between the peas4 ,granulated sugar dusted over the pod gives a beautiful soft color and surface4 ,snow ,balls4--,all modeled candies are a delight to children1 but snow balls always meet with a particular favor4 ,stuffed figs1 prepared as directed for red apples on page #gj1 form the basis for them4 ,to keep the color of the figs from showing through1 cover them with the uncooked fondant and roll in the hands until perfect balls are formed4 ,after the balls have dried two or more hours1 roll them again in this coating of uncooked fondant to which has been added a small quantity of blue coloring4 ,this is to insure the balls being snow white4 ,brush these balls with the unbeaten white of an egg and roll in equal parts of crystal and granulated sugar4 ,grapes4--,the confection described below and pictured opposite page #gb is good to look at1 good to eat1 and comparatively easy to make4 ,it should be borne in mind1 by the way1 that the directions for candies often sound more difficult than the actual process4 ,as the basis for the grapes1 take smooth almonds1 not blanched4 ,into the smaller end of each one insert nickeled wire1 pushing it well into the nut4 ,then cover the nuts with potato fondant4 ,work them with the fingers until they assume the forms of single grapes4 ,dry in a corn starch bed4 ,when the forms are dry1 brush all the corn starch off4 ,the grapes so formed should be colored a medium shade by the use of vegetable coloring pastes to resemble catawba or purple grapes4 ,because of the opaqueness of the grapes1 they cannot be made to imitate closely the color of green grapes1 but if the confectioner has an unusual fondness for green grapes1 and is not over particular1 there is no reason why she should not attempt them4 ,after coloring1 dry the grapes thoroughly on a wire screen1 finish them in thin crystal1 which has been colored somewhat lighter than the shade the finished grapes are expected to assume4 ,in order to leave the confection with a glossy surface1 it is possible to add to the crystal a very small quantity of gum ,arabic4 ,after the crystal is thoroughly dry1 the wires should be wound with raffia of the leaf green shade1 and1 by twisting the wires together1 the single grapes formed into bunches of the size desired4 ,if the confectioner wishes large bunches1 it is well to wind the wires onto a tree twig1 for the sake of the additional firmness4 ,it should be remembered that the large bunches are heavy4 ,the use of the twig is also recommended for the natural appearance it gives to the finished bunch4 ,brush the stems with a thin syrup4 ,the loose ends of the raffia may be disposed of and the appearance of the confection made more natural by dampening them with the syrup and winding them around any round object of about the size of a lead pencil4 ,the ends of the raffia1 so treated1 will resemble tendrils4 ,in taste1 the grapes are much like the usual hard-covered almonds4 ,other ,possibilities4--,if the candy-maker has ambition and imagination1 she will regard the foregoing objects as merely suggestive2 she will work out for herself other objects of equal interest4 ,the following suggestions as to coloring1 she will find valuable no matter how much she may want to create for herself4 ,for pears1 use yellow with red2 for peaches1 yellow with a very little red2 for pumpkins1 light orange with touches of green2 for radishes1 light red1 with green for the stem2 for carrots1 orange with a slight touch of green2 for plums1 the so-called violet with a very little red2 for strawberries1 red1 touched with yellow to simulate the seeds--and so on indefinitely4 ,,ix ,,potato ,,caramel ,three receipts are given for potato caramels and one for opera caramels4 ,it should be noted that opera caramels and the ordinary potato caramels are as different as fudge and taffy4 ,the first of the receipts for potato caramels is by all odds the best1 but it means much hard work4 ,the second is much easier1 but the results1 while good to eat1 are not so pleasing in looks or consistency4 ,the third is a compromise4 ,in none1 owing to the very slow cooking1 is it possible to use a thermometer to advantage4 ,the old tests1 supplemented by a sort of intuition that old candy-makers call caramel sense will have to be used to determine when cookings are completed4 ,but with good fortune and a little experimenting1 the amateur confectioner's judgment will soon become accurate4 ,potato ,caramel ,no4 #a4 ,stir well one pound of sugar1 one cupful of milk1 one cupful of ,irish potato--boiled and sifted as directed before--two tablespoonfuls of butter and one-half teaspoonful of salt4 ,boil until thick1 and thin with one-half cupful of milk1 and again cook until thick2 again thin with one-half cupful of milk and cook until the mass is of caramel consistency1 tested in cold water4 ,stir as little as possible1 but be careful that the mass does not stick to the bottom of the kettle4 ,pour on a well oiled marble between candy bars4 ,dry two days1 cut in strips and dry again before finally cutting in squares4 ,place them in a cold place for several hours and then wrap them in parchment paper4 ,they keep well4 ,this is the kind of potato caramel that is especially good for chocolate coating1 although all of the potato caramels can be chocolate coated4 ,make the caramels as above and allow them to dry in the open air for several hours and then cover with chocolate4 ,the process is fully as laborious as it sounds1 but the results are more than worth the trouble4 ,the repeated cookings give the characteristic caramel taste and color4 ,the following receipt1 however1 means less work4 ,potato ,caramel ,no4 #b4 ,boil together one cupful of granulated sugar1 one cupful of coffee ,a sugar1 one-half cupful of ,irish potato--treated as before--one tablespoonful of butter1 one cupful of milk1 caramel coloring4 ,stir continually until the mass forms a soft ball in cold water4 ,then pour it onto a well oiled marble between candy bars4 ,potato ,caramel ,no4 #c4 ,boil one pound of brown sugar1 one cupful of milk1 a piece of butter the size of a walnut1 and one-quarter cupful of ,irish potato--prepared as before--until a bit dipped from the mass will form a firm ball in cold water4 ,stir as little as possible4 ,pour on an oiled marble between candy bars4 ,the result is more like fudge but is cooked to dryness without being grained by beating4 ,opera ,caramel4 ,to two cupsful of sugar1 one cupful ,irish potato boiled1 drained and forced through a fine sieve1 add one tablespoonful of butter and thin with one-half cupful of milk4 ,cook until thick2 remove from the fire4 ,put in one-half cupful of milk again4 ,cook until thick1 remove from the fire and add one-half cupful of milk4 ,return the pan to the fire again4 ,this is the last time4 ,it is wise to place an asbestos mat under the saucepan4 ,cook until very thick--until a soft ball can be formed in cold water4 ,after the mass has been removed from the fire1 add one cupful of broken walnut meats1 and one cupful of bon-bon cream1 broken in small pieces so that it will be distributed quickly through the mass without much stirring and pour the mixture between candy-bars on an oiled marble4 ,when cold cut it into squares2 for home use it will not need wrapping4 ,as with potato caramel ,no4 #a1 this confection is most pleasantly susceptible to chocolate coating4 ,allow it to dry in the open air for several hours and then cover with chocolate as usual4 ,broken nut meats can be added to any of the caramel recipes above4 ,x ,,potato--,,miscellaneous ,potatoes are probably the most useful vegetable known to the maker of vegetable confectionery4 ,as has been explained in the preceding chapters1 they are the basis of potato fondant and potato paste1 both of which are basic mixtures4 ,the usefulness of the potato does not end with decorative candy4 ,in the form both of paste and fondant and prepared in other ways1 it is responsible for several pleasing new confections4 ,mocha ,walnuts4--,to the yolk of one egg beaten to a cream1 add one-half cupful of ,irish potato--boiled1 drained1 and forced through a sieve as described before--and one teaspoonful of coffee extract4 ,gradually stir in confectioner's sugar until the mass can be made into soft balls4 ,flatten these balls1 press on walnut meats1 and spread to dry4 ,if desired for packing1 dip them into a crystal cooked to two hundred and twenty degrees4 ,to insure a good surface and keep the cream from drying out1 it may be well to dip the candy again after letting it dry a day4 ,see ,no4 #h in the frontispiece4 ,pecan ,creams4--,the process for making them is the same as that described for making mocha walnuts except that lemon or vanilla extract is used instead of coffee1--see ,no4 #ad of the frontispiece--and pecan meats1 instead of walnut meats4 ,indeed1 the imaginative candy-cook will be able to invent for herself several other new confections built upon this same principle4 ,raisin ,creams4--,to make them1 form potato fondant--directions for which are given on page #fa--;into balls and place a seeded raisin on each side4 ,cook a crystal syrup to two hundred and twenty-eight degrees and keep it warm by the use of the steam bath4 ,into it1 dip1 one by one1 the fondant balls1 prepared as above4 ,dry on racks4 ,if desired1 ordinary bon-bon cream1 flavored and colored to suit the cook's fancy1 may be substituted for the potato fondant4 ,a satisfactory variety is given these raisin creams by pulling the raisin entirely over a pecan meat before attaching to the cream4 ,this confection is rich in flavor and most attractive in shape4 ,peppermint ,chocolates4--,potato paste--described on page #eb--;is the basis for them4 ,make a softer paste by using less sugar1 work in peppermint to taste1 form it into balls1 flatten and dry for a couple of hours4 ,then dip them in chocolate as usual4 ,after the finished candy has stood for a time long enough for the chocolate covering to have mellowed the center1 the result will be a cream of excellent flavor and a texture unusually attractive because of its grain4 ,the difference between this and the ordinary peppermint chocolate is so great that they really are not the same confection4 ,celtic ,almonds4--,this attractive confection is in reality a cream1 but a cream so different from the ordinary nut cream that it seems to fall into a separate class4 ,in place of the usual richness1 there is here a delicacy of flavor and clearness of outline that is a distinctly enjoyable addition to confectionery4 ,blanch almonds1 split them1 and dry in a soft cloth4 ,color potato fondant pink and flavor it with rose4 ,roll fondant so prepared into small balls1 and place upon each side of each a split almond4 ,each piece should then be made to imitate as clearly as possible the shape of the real almond4 ,the ideal result is a confection that is very little larger than the real almond with a thin layer of cream between translucent nut meats4 ,after a little experimentation1 persuasive fingers can accomplish this result4 ,when fashioned1 dip the candies into a crystal syrup cooked to two hundred and twenty-five degrees and roll in granulated sugar4 ,walnuts or pecans can be treated in the same way with white or colored fondant4 ,the result1 however1 will not be so distinctively dainty and will be little improvement upon the mocha walnuts and pecan creams described above4 ,chocolate ,bars4--,as the basis1 take cooked potato fondant which has been well kneaded4 ,form it into a sheet about one-quarter of an inch thick4 ,cut therefrom bars an inch and a quarter long by a quarter of an inch wide4 ,dip them in chocolate and let them dry4 ,a pleasing variation is made from the same base--cooked potato fondant4 ,knead into it melted chocolate4 ,a portion of the resulting mass may be formed into balls and the rest rolled into a long piece as slender as a pipe stem4 ,this small cylinder should be cut into two inch lengths and the ends pointed4 ,another method is to make small balls and give these a very thin coating of white fondant4 ,in any case1 dry on a corn starch bed and coat with chocolate4 ,vegetable ,cream4--,vegetable cream is another base with which much can be done in vegetable candy-making4 ,in itself1 it is good to eat and can be made to take many different and useful forms4 ,to make it1 mix two cupsful of sugar1 one cupful of ,irish potato--boiled or steamed1 drained and forced through a sieve--one teaspoonful of butter1 and one-half teaspoonful of salt4 ,boil to two hundred and twenty-eight degrees4 ,have ready one-fourth cupful each of preserved garden ginger and spiced beets drained from their syrup2 cut very fine1 and spread upon a marble slab4 ,over beet and ginger pour the cooked mixture1 and cut in as for fondant4 ,gingers are described upon page #aja and spiced beets upon page #aaa4 ,below1 there are suggested five ways of using the cream4 ,many others1 however1 will come to the mind of the experienced candy-cook4 ,vegetable cream may be formed into balls and rolled in granulated sugar4 ,the balls so prepared may then be rolled in shredded cocoanut1 cut fine1 or the balls without the sugar may be covered with the cocoanut4 ,another possibility is to dip the balls into chocolate4 ,nuts may be added1 either by rolling the balls in the meats cut into little pieces1 or by pressing the meats into the balls and treating with the crystal syrup1 or by using a drop or two of the crystal to glue the nut meat to the ball and then coating4 ,moreover1 the balls may be used in their simple form without any covering at all4 ,no matter what is done with them1 of course1 they must be dried off before serving4 ,,xi ,,sweet ,,potato ,sweet potatoes used as the basis for candy-making should be baked4 ,boiled sweet potato changes color during the succeeding processes and retains an amount of water that is likely to cause trouble4 ,after baking1 the potato should be forced through a fine sieve4 ,make sure that the sifting process is done so thoroughly that all fiber is removed4 ,sweet ,potato ,patties4--,for the patties1 boil until very thick one pound of granulated sugar1 one cupful of sweet potato prepared as above2 one-half cupful of desiccated cocoanut1 and one-half cupful of water4 ,when the mixture has cooked1 add one-half cupful of bon-bon cream1 cut into small pieces4 ,stir thoroughly4 ,as the mass begins to set1 drop it quickly on waxed paper in small drops4 ,act promptly1 for the mass sets quickly4 ,the drops will not be smooth4 ,to improve the looks of these patties1 they may be dipped in a crystal syrup1 cooked to two hundred and twenty degrees2 and then dusted with granulated sugar4 ,if they are not wanted immediately1 they may be packed for any length of time not exceeding six weeks provided they have been finished with the crystal and granulated sugar4 ,sweet ,potato ,knots4--,cook until very thick equal quantities of granulated sugar and sweet potato--prepared as before--and add a few drops of oil of cinnamon4 ,if another color is preferred to the natural amber1 add coloring paste to suit4 ,immediately spread the mixture over a tin sheet upon which has been sifted confectioner's sugar4 ,the tin should be of such a size that the mass will be about one-quarter of an inch thick4 ,when it has dried so that it will not stick to the fingers1 with a long1 thin knife1 cut narrow ribbon-like strips about six inches long4 ,fashion them into bowknots4 ,be sure that there is not undue thickness at the center4 ,the tools described in the second chapter--particularly page #af--will be useful as will also be the glass sheet4 ,if the candy is moist1 dip the hands into ,,xxxx sugar4 ,dry on oilcloth or waxed paper4 ,when firm1 dip into a crystal which has been cooked to two hundred and twenty-five degrees and allowed to stand for five minutes4 ,dry on a screen4 ,their attractiveness can be seen at a glance at the foreground of the illustration opposite page #ach1 and by looking at ,no4 #ah in the frontispiece4 ,sweet ,potato ,pastilles4--,they are made from the same mixture as are the knots4 ,while the mixture is still hot1 drop it in small drops upon a cold bare marble1 and dust them with granulated sugar4 ,when they have dried for several hours1 or1 if possible1 over night1 lift with a thin knife1 place two drops together by their bases1 dredge again with granulated sugar to cover the edges1 and dry4 ,,xii ,,parsnip ,crystallization forms the basis of candy-making with parsnips4 ,by means of a modification of the old fashioned ,french hand method1 it is possible to make a confection that is good in itself1 useful as the basis for other confections1 and of unusually long keeping qualities4 ,parsnip candy1 though the invention of to-day1 has a pleasing old fashioned taste and appearance4 ,candied ,parsnips4--,in method of preparation and keeping qualities1 they resemble the candied flag root of our grandmothers4 ,they are useful to trim a box of candy4 ,peel the parsnips and leave them in cold water for two or three hours4 ,cut cross-wise into very thin slices1 drop the slices into boiling water1 and let them boil five minutes4 ,after they have thoroughly drained1 put them into a syrup made by boiling together one part of water and three parts of granulated sugar4 ,make sure that the syrup really is a syrup--that the sugar and water have thoroughly united4 ,add the parsnips and boil for ten minutes4 ,next comes the use of a novel modification of hand crystallization--a process that the amateur candy-maker may well afford to make herself master of1 because it is useful for many confections4 ,obtain a pan with sloping sides into which the drying rack will drop half way4 ,as the pan must be used for candy-making and nothing else and as the greatest strength is not necessary1 a suitable dish can probably be obtained from a ten-cent store4 ,stir carefully with a wooden paddle in order to make sure that all the pieces are separated and that the hot syrup comes into contact with all the surfaces of the confections4 ,pour the hot mass over the rack--in position in the pan--and immediately put a board over the pan4 ,make sure that the vegetable is evenly distributed4 ,the wood absorbs the moisture while a tin cover would make trouble by causing the steam to condense and drop back onto the candy4 ,leave the pan undisturbed for twenty-four hours4 ,then lift the rack out1 pour the syrup into the kettle and cook to two hundred and twenty degrees4 ,return the vegetable to the syrup and stir carefully2 each piece must be immersed4 ,the small pieces of candy will be heated through in so very short a time that it is necessary only to make sure that each piece has been thoroughly immersed in the hot syrup4 ,make sure that the rack is clean and free from particles of the syrup4 ,thereupon1 again pour it over the rack arranged in the pan as before4 ,repeat the process four times1 each time cooking the syrup two degrees hotter4 ,the result is a slow crystallization which covers the candy so that it is perfectly preserved and very good to taste and look upon4 ,although the work must be distributed over six days1 only a very few minutes are required except upon the first day4 ,parsnip ,boutonniere4--,the candied parsnip forms the basis of one of the most decorative of all boutonnieres4 ,for each of them have ready1 besides a supply of the parsnips1 candied as above1 artificial fern1 sometimes sold under the name imitation air plant1 a lace mat1 a number twenty-two wire1 and one yard of ribbon one-half inch wide1 the preferred color4 ,see the illustration opposite page #gb4 ,mix one cupful of sugar and one-third cupful of water1 and color the same as the ribbon4 ,cook the syrup thus made to two hundred and twenty-five degrees4 ,into this hot syrup drop the crystallized parsnips1 and allow them to remain a few minutes4 ,after they have become thoroughly and evenly colored1 pour them upon a wire screen4 ,after they have dried1 attach to about two dozen of them pieces of wire about six inches long4 ,it is well to place a drop of thick syrup at the point at which the wire enters the candy4 ,cut the ferns into lengths of from two to four inches4 ,mix the wired candies through the bunch of ferns1 occasionally twisting a strand of fern around the wires so that all wires will be hidden4 ,slip the lace mat up over the wires and the ends of the ferns1 wrap wires with tissue paper and cover with tinsel foil1 either silver or gilt1 and tie the center of the ribbon around the stem directly under the mat and form a rosette4 ,about five inches from the point tie the ends together in a bow knot4 ,,xiii ,,carrot ,to the art of candy-making1 the use of carrots has brought a harmless new color4 ,formerly the peculiar yellowish orange of the carrot candy was a shade that the confectioner1 amateur or otherwise1 could not hope to attain without the use of artificial substances4 ,the statement that carrots are valuable in candy-making for their color must not be thought to mean that the confections made from them are not very good to eat4 ,quite the contrary2 carrot candies have a very pleasing flavor4 ,carrot ,rings4--,to make them1 peel medium sized carrots and let them stand several hours in cold water4 ,cut cross-wise into slices about one-quarter of an inch thick and with a small round cutter or sharp knife remove the center pith4 ,drop the rings into boiling water and cook until tender4 ,after they have thoroughly drained1 drop them into a syrup made by boiling one part of water and three parts of sugar to two hundred and twenty degrees4 ,boil until the rings become translucent--probably about ten minutes4 ,dry on a wire rack1 taking care that the rings do not touch4 ,the next day1 heat the syrup to two hundred and twenty-five degrees and again dip the rings and dry as before4 ,if desired1 when they are dry1 fill the centers with bon-bon cream or marzipan4 ,when this center has become firm1 dip the candy into a syrup cooked to two hundred and twenty-eight degrees4 ,even if the centers are not filled1 it is well to make this third dipping2 the thermometer should1 however1 register two hundred and thirty degrees instead of merely two hundred and twenty-eight4 ,illustration3 ,boxed ,vegetable ,candies ,crystallized ,carrot4--,for this confection1 proceed exactly as directed in the previous chapter for crystallized parsnip1 substituting1 of course1 the carrots for the parsnips4 ,carrot ,roll4--,from ordinary cream fondant or from cooked potato fondant1 make a thin strip about an inch wide4 ,place upon it small pieces of the crystallized carrot1 prepared as directed above1 and roll so that there is formed a long tube filled with the candied vegetable4 ,cut this tube into pieces as long as desired--half an inch is about right--and after drying until quite firm dip into a crystal cooked to two hundred and twenty-five degrees4 ,if the pieces are not firm when they go into the crystal bath they are likely to soften and lose their roundness4 ,gingers4--,preserved ginger is a delightful confection1 but it is expensive1 and cannot be obtained in every town4 ,there is a substitute that when properly prepared has an added charm1 because it is the product of the candy-maker's own art4 ,note the box at the extreme right of the illustration facing page #ih4 ,garden ,ginger4--,take white carrots1 preferably of fine texture1 boil them five or ten minutes1 scrape off the outside layer1 cut the carrots in quarters1 lengthwise1 and remove the cores4 ,then remove the point and cut the remainder into slices about the size of the pieces of preserved ginger4 ,boil the pieces in fresh water until they are tender1 but change the water frequently to destroy all vegetable taste and odor4 ,yellow carrots can be used1 but in that case the resulting confection will differ from preserved ginger in color1 although not in taste4 ,to every pound of cooked carrots add two pounds of granulated sugar1 one quart of water1 two ounces of green ginger root shaved fine1 and the juice and grated rind of one lemon4 ,boil the mixture for fifteen minutes1 and repeat the boiling the next day1 and surely once or twice more2 at any rate1 until the syrup is very thick4 ,if the boiling was continuous for five hours1 the moisture would be eliminated1 but the texture of the ginger would probably be ruined4 ,the short cookings give the carrots the opportunity to absorb the cooling syrup slowly4 ,if less water were used1--in order to reduce the time of cooking1--the carrot would harden too rapidly to take up enough syrup4 ,if the ginger is not wanted for immediate use1 it can be stored in the syrup4 ,the confection may be finished at once and packed dry1 but the better method of preservation is in the liquid4 ,the open season for carrots is very short and for the ginger is the whole year long6 ,to finish1 heat the syrup thoroughly and then drain4 ,after the liquid has stopped dripping1 roll each piece of the ginger in granulated sugar1 place the pieces on a wire tray1 making sure that no two pieces touch1 and put the tray in an oven very slightly heated4 ,when the confection is dry it is done4 ,variations4--,three variations are possible4 ,if a sharper taste is desired1 add a few grains of ,cayenne pepper the last time the syrup is boiled4 ,if a moister product is preferred1 omit the lemon-juice and rind4 ,if green ginger cannot be obtained1 substitute one ounce of ground ginger4 ,ground ginger1 however1 must be boiled in a fine cloth bag2 otherwise particles of it will adhere to the pieces of carrot4 ,,xiv ,,bean ,candied ,green ,beans4--,select well filled pods of green beans2 wash1 and then cook until tender in water to which a little soda has been added4 ,drain4 ,to a pound of beans so cooked1 add one gill of water1 one pound of sugar1 and one tablespoonful of vinegar4 ,boil this mixture for fifteen minutes1 and let it remain in the syrup over night4 ,the next day1 drain the syrup from the beans and cook it to two hundred and twenty degrees4 ,place the beans upon the screen of the crystal pan1 pour the syrup over them1 and cover with a board4 ,repeat the process next day4 ,when wanted for use1 drain the syrup from the beans4 ,cook the syrup to two hundred and thirty degrees1 return the beans to it1 allowing them thoroughly to heat through4 ,turn them onto the screen1 making sure that they are well spread4 ,cover with a board1 and1 after a few hours1 spread singly4 ,bean ,taffy4--,bean taffy easily takes first rank among all taffies--vegetable or otherwise4 ,the taste is good beyond words1 and the consistency is pleasingly chewy without being tenacious to the point of teeth pulling6 ,lima beans are the best to use as the basis because the skins can easily be removed1 but ordinary dried beans may be substituted if care is taken4 ,cover the beans with cold water1 let them stand over night1 and the next morning boil them until soft1 and force through a fine sieve to remove all the skins4 ,boil together two cupsful of granulated sugar1 one-half cupful of water1 a tablespoonful of butter1 and one-half cupful of the beans1 prepared as above4 ,after the mixture has boiled thoroughly1 add one cupful of milk4 ,add the cupful of milk1 one-third at a time4 ,stir the mixture and let it boil a few minutes after each addition of milk4 ,when the thermometer registers two hundred and forty-two degrees1 pour the mass onto an oiled marble between oiled candy bars so that it will set about one-quarter inch thick4 ,as with ordinary taffy1 cut into pieces of the desired size4 ,nut ,bean ,taffy4--,cut ,brazil nuts cross-wise into shavings about one-sixteenth of an inch in thickness--about the thickness of the pieces of shaved cocoanut4 ,spread as many of them as are desired upon oiled marble between oiled candy bars4 ,pour over the nuts the mass described above4 ,treat as before4 ,,xv ,,beet ,to the candy cook1 the discovery that beets make good confectionery brings a new flavor and a new color--one as desirable as the other1 and that is saying a great deal6 ,in candy made from beets there are several new shades of red which previously could not be obtained even by the use of artificial coloring matter4 ,in case the beet color is desired for candies made upon other bases1 it can be had very easily4 ,the beets should be boiled until the water is colored red4 ,then this water may be substituted for the water called for by other receipts in vegetable candy-making4 ,the beet color will be given but the beet flavor will not be4 ,the result is a pleasing color without the use of anything that is artificial4 ,frosted ,beet ,slice4--,boil to two hundred and thirty-two degrees two cupsful of sugar1 one tablespoonful of grated raw beet1 one-third cupful of water1 one teaspoonful of vinegar1 and one teaspoonful of butter4 ,remove from the fire and stir in one-half cupful of broken walnut meats4 ,when the mass begins to thicken1 pour it between oiled candy bars on an oiled marble so that it will form a layer three-quarters of an inch thick4 ,when cool1 cover one-quarter of an inch thick with a frosting made of one cupful of sugar1 one-quarter cupful of water1 and one-eighth teaspoonful of cream of tartar1 boiled without stirring to two hundred and thirty-four degrees and then flavored with a few drops of vanilla and lemon and beaten until creamy4 ,when set1--a quick process--cut the mass into pieces about one-half inch wide and one and one-half inches long4 ,if the confection is to be kept1 crystallize at two hundred and twenty-five degrees4 ,the looks are improved if the confection is then rolled in granulated sugar4 ,dry on a wire screen for twelve hours or so4 ,note ,no4 #aj in the frontispiece4 ,beet ,puffs4--,cut one medium sized beet into thin slices1 cover with one-half cupful of cold water and cook in a double boiler until soft4 ,drain1 and to the liquid thus obtained add one pound of sugar2 boil two or three minutes4 ,to this mixture1 add one-half cupful of the cooked beet cut into fine pieces4 ,cook this mass to two hundred and forty degrees4 ,have ready the whites of two eggs1 salted and beaten to a stiff froth4 ,remove from the fire and after the steam has ceased to rise1 beat the mixture into the whites of the two eggs4 ,using a pecan meat to push with1 drop this mixture from a teaspoon in small puffs on waxed paper1 leaving the pecan imbedded4 ,this mixture is very foamy and adhesive1 sets very quickly and must be handled rapidly4 ,these directions will yield about five dozen puffs4 ,a few drops of rose water may be added if a more delicate flavor is desired4 ,beet ,cubes with ,variations4--,beet cubes possess remarkable color value4 ,to make them1 boil to two hundred and thirty degrees two cupsful of granulated sugar1 one tablespoonful grated raw beet1 one-half cupful of water1 one teaspoonful of butter and one cupful of shredded cocoanut4 ,pour the mass between oiled candy bars upon greased marble so that it will form half an inch deep4 ,four things may be done with this mass4 ,it may be cut into cubes4 ,if wanted for future use it may be dipped into a crystal syrup to hold the moisture4 ,children will like it poured into oiled cup-cake tins or any other mold4 ,if molded1 care should be taken that the finished confection is not more than half an inch thick4 ,if the cubes are dipped into bon-bon cream they will be of unusual beauty because of the pink showing through the fondant casing4 ,crystallized ,beets4--,crystallized beets are fully as pretty as candied rose leaves4 ,they are particularly valuable in trimming boxes of candy--especially all vegetable boxes4 ,to crystallize beets1 use the process described for parsnips in ,chapter ,,xii4 ,after the last crystallization1 however1 the pieces should be separated1 dusted with granulated sugar1 and dried on a wire screen1 instead of being left on the rack4 ,if it is desired to increase the illusion1 add rose water to the syrup4 ,spiced ,beets4--,boil beets and cut them into cubes of about one inch4 ,mix one cupful of sugar and one-third cupful of vinegar4 ,spice highly4 ,cinnamon1 cloves and allspice should be used1 and whatever else the fancy of the candy-maker dictates4 ,boil the mixture until it syrups1 add the beets and cook ten minutes4 ,remove the mass from the fire1 cover and set away for two days4 ,drain the syrup from the beets1 boil the syrup to two hundred and twenty degrees and pour it boiling over the beets4 ,cover the mass and set it aside4 ,repeat this process on several successive days4 ,spiced ,beet ,bon-bons4--,take spiced beets and drain off the syrup4 ,cook the syrup to two hundred and thirty degrees4 ,with a wooden paddle beat it at one side of the saucepan until it begins to look creamy4 ,thereupon1 add the beets1 stir the whole mass briskly and turn it onto a sieve4 ,dry the cubes on a rack1 roll each in fondant1 dry for two hours and dip in bon-bon cream4 ,,xvi ,,tomato ,tomato ,marshmallow4--,very often marshmallows--even the sort sold in candy stores of the better class--contain gums and glucose which the amateur would find difficult to handle even if she felt no scruple in their use4 ,tomato marshmallows1 however1 are pleasing in consistency and more attractive in flavor than the old-fashioned kind4 ,moreover1 they are easy to make1 although it is necessary to give more detailed directions than would be required in the description of the process with which the home candy-maker is more familiar4 ,dissolve three tablespoonsful of granulated gelatine in one cupful of hot water4 ,cook and strain ripe tomatoes2 to one-half cupful of the strained tomato add one cupful of sugar and cook the mixture to two hundred and thirty degrees4 ,have ready in a deep saucepan1 three cupsful of sugar1 moistened with one-quarter of a cupful of water4 ,upon it strain the tomato syrup1 stir well1 thin with a cupful of water1 and cook to two hundred and forty degrees4 ,set the mass off the fire1 add the gelatine water previously prepared1 mix thoroughly and strain into a fresh bowl4 ,have ready the whites of two eggs beaten to a stiff froth4 ,with a ,french egg whip or a common wooden paddle1 beat the cooked mass hard until it is white and does not separate4 ,when it becomes foamy and spongy1 gradually add the beaten egg whites and keep beating until the whole mass is very stringy and will almost set on the paddle4 ,sift upon the mass one tablespoonful of corn starch2 stir well4 ,pour the candy between candy bars on a marble well dusted with ,,xxxx sugar4 ,leave ten or twelve hours1 cut into squares1 roll well in ,,xxxx sugar1 spread the other side up and dry off4 ,instead of pouring the marshmallows between candy bars1 they may be molded in corn starch4 ,store in a tight box4 ,the receipt sounds more laborious than is the process4 ,the repeated boilings are necessary to perfect the product4 ,the acid of the tomato destroys the granularity of the sugar4 ,straining the mixture eliminates the particles of tomato which1 not having blended thoroughly into the syrup1 would cause trouble by sticking to the bottom of the saucepan in the later higher cooking4 ,chocolate ,marshmallow4--,marshmallows1 made as directed above1 are the basis for them4 ,dip them in coating chocolate2 the method of treatment is the same as with ordinary chocolate marshmallows4 ,vegetable ,nougatine4--,mix two cupsful of sugar1 one-third of a cupful of corn syrup1 one-third of a cupful of strained honey1 and one-third of a cupful of strained cooked tomato2 boil the mixture to two hundred and sixty degrees4 ,beat three egg whites very stiff1 and remove the mixture from the fire4 ,until about one-half of a cupful has been so used1 dip a spoonful at a time on the eggs1 beating the mass continuously4 ,from this point on1 use an asbestos mat under the pan4 ,return the remainder to the stove4 ,this time cook the mass to two hundred and ninety degrees4 ,pour it over the eggs1 again beating continuously4 ,thereupon1 set the mixture on the stove once more4 ,the mass should cook slowly until1 when tried in water1 a sample of it has the consistency that is desired in the finished candy4 ,some people like the vegetable nougatine soft1 others like it chewy1 and still others want it to be hard4 ,stir in one-half of a cupful of almonds1 blanched and cut into small pieces1 and one-half of a cupful of garden ginger also cut into small pieces4 ,line a shallow straight-sided pan with wafer paper4 ,pour in the candy1 and press a sheet of wafer paper onto the top4 ,let the mixture stand over night4 ,the next morning remove the candy1 paper and all1 from the pan and place it on a marble slab1 slightly oiled4 ,with a long1 thin knife1 cut it into strips one and one-half inches long1 and three-eighths of an inch thick and deep4 ,do not attempt to cut directly through the candy1 but use a sawing motion4 ,immediately wrap the pieces in parchment paper4 ,wafer paper1 be it noted1 is made from rice4 ,it is easily soluble in water and may be eaten with impunity4 ,chocolate ,nougatines4--,if the nougatines are desired for chocolate coating1 the process is very simple4 ,instead of pouring the mass into the pan1 lined with wafer paper1 it should be poured onto a greased marble1 between greased candy bars1 so placed that the mixture will completely fill the rectangle formed by the bars4 ,as before1 cover with wafer paper4 ,over the paper place a board1 kept in place with a heavy weight1 in order to make the mixture more solid4 ,as before1 cut into small pieces4 ,the process of coating is the ordinary one4 ,nut ,burs4--,cook one-half of a cupful of strained tomato and one cupful of granulated sugar to two hundred and thirty degrees2 add two cupsful of sugar1 one-half of a cupful of water1 and two teaspoonsful of butter4 ,let this mixture boil up once only2 then strain4 ,place it in a three quart saucepan1 return it to the fire1 and cook to two hundred and forty-two degrees4 ,take one-quarter of a cupful each of preserved garden ginger and spiced beet1 drain the syrup off and cut very fine2 spread upon a wet marble4 ,over beet and ginger pour the cooked mixture1 and cut in4 ,form the mass into balls1 flatten them slightly1 roll in confectioner's sugar1 and let dry4 ,with a sharp knife1 cut on a board blanched almonds1 pecan1 and pistachio nut meats into small1 pointed pieces4 ,this is the method of using the nuts3 ,have the nuts spread thinly upon a plate4 ,melt coating chocolate1 and let it stand until cool4 ,the principles laid down in ,chapter ,,vi1 ,chocolate ,coating1 should be followed4 ,into the chocolate dip the dried balls and roll them over the nuts4 ,make sure that the nuts adhere to all parts4 ,dry upon racks4 ,the brown1 green and cream of the almonds1 pecans and pistachios against the dark chocolate background make a very attractive color scheme4 ,the nuts may be used alone1 however1 or different combinations may be substituted4 ,other nuts may be drafted into effective service4 ,if peanuts are used1 be it noted1 they must not be combined with any other nuts2 the peanut flavor is overwhelming4 ,see the dish at the right of the illustration facing page #aah1 and ,no4 #ba of the frontispiece4 ,,xvii ,,cornlettes ,green corn has great possibilities for the maker of vegetable candy4 ,if fresh corn can be obtained1 boil the ears in salted water until the kernels are tender4 ,while they are still hot1 with a thin1 sharp knife cut down the center of each row4 ,press with the back of the knife down the cob thus freeing the pulp but leaving the skin upon the cob4 ,to make certain that the pulp is free from skins1 and of a uniform consistency1 force it through a coarse sieve4 ,note that the corn is not to be made into a paste as was the potato4 ,if canned corn is used1 force it through a sieve4 ,boil together1 until the mixture is very thick1 one-half cupful of corn1 so prepared1 one-half cupful of granulated sugar and one-half cupful of coffee ,a sugar4 ,the thermometer reading will be about two hundred and thirty degrees4 ,add one-half cupful of bon-bon cream4 ,pour the mixture into a rubber mold1 or1 if preferred1 drop like cream wafers upon waxed paper4 ,if the mass is too thick to pour easily1 add a few drops of hot water4 ,the quantities here given will fill a mold of four-dozen size--the sort illustrated on page #aj4 ,after the drops have dried for five or six hours1 dip them singly into a syrup cooked to two hundred and twenty-five degrees4 ,on the next day they will be ready for packing4 ,illustration3 ,decorative and ,edible ,nut ,cornlettes4--,cornlettes are a little richer both in consistency and in flavor than the many creams to which candy eaters are accustomed4 ,by the addition of a nut to each piece1 however1 cornlettes may be made still richer and still more distinctive candy4 ,there are three methods of adding nuts4 ,the first method is to push the nut into each piece soon after it has been poured into the mold4 ,the great advantage of this method is its ease and quickness4 ,the confection is ready for the serving dish as soon as it is cool enough to leave the mold4 ,a clearer and better finished appearance may be obtained by the use of the second method4 ,by it1 the cornlette1 when molded1 is dipped into a crystal syrup4 ,a drop of the hot crystal is placed upon the back of the nut meat to serve as glue1 and corn and nut are pressed together4 ,when cool1 the whole is dipped into the crystal4 ,the third process is a compromise4 ,the drop may be dipped into the crystal as soon as it comes from the mold1 and the nut1 either plain or dipped1 may then be placed upon it4 ,when the crystal sets1 the union will be firm4 ,,xviii ,,onion ,,cold ,,tablets ,by supplying a more wholesome sort of confectionery1 vegetable candy--at least in the eyes of its friends6--has decreased the need of household remedies for indigestion and similar ailments4 ,on the other hand1 the newly discovered candy-making brings a definite contribution to the family medicine chest4 ,from onion can be made tablets that have the virtues assigned to our foremothers' cough syrups and even are good to eat1 according to those who like the flavor of the onion4 ,onion cold tablets1 then1 are offered both as confectionery and as a household remedy4 ,it should be borne in mind1 however1 that no household remedy1 however good1 or tried1 takes the place of the physician4 ,the family health is too precious a commodity to be entrusted to unprofessional hands4 ,to make the tablets1 cut into thin slices two ounces of raw onion--about half of a good sized onion1--work the onion into two cupsful of sugar and let the mixture stand for two hours4 ,add two-thirds of a cupful of cold water1 place the mass on the fire1 and let it come just to a boil4 ,strain the syrup so made into a granite saucepan1 and add one teaspoonful of vinegar and the amount of red pepper that the point of a knife will hold4 ,place the mixture on the fire1 and when the mass begins to boil1 put a wooden cover over the pan4 ,continue the boiling for several minutes2 thoroughly steam down the side of the pan4 ,by steaming down the side of the pan is meant confining the steam which rises from cooking so that it will free the sides of the pan from the accumulation of the mass that is cooking4 ,remove the cover1 insert a thermometer1 and cook the mass to three hundred and thirty-five degrees4 ,thereupon stir in one tablespoonful of butter1 remove the mass from the fire1 add one teaspoonful of salt1 and baking soda the size of a large pea4 ,thoroughly mix the mass1 and pour it between candy-bars on a well oiled marble slab4 ,as the confection sets1 mark it off in squares1 and be sure to run the knife under the whole sheet to free it from the marble4 ,unless the sheet is so freed from the marble it will be sure to stick so that it can be handled only with difficulty4 ,when the mass is cooled1 it will easily break into the squares into which it has been marked4 ,for preserving1 pack the tablets in tin boxes4 ,for those who do not like so much red pepper1 the quantity may be regulated to suit4 ,the amount of onion used may also be increased or diminished as the taste of the candy-maker dictates4 ,,xix ,,oriental ,,paste ,this confection is easily made from purely vegetable ingredients1 and has the pleasing consistency and flavor of the ,turkish pastes4 ,the gelatine that is used comes from an aquatic plant--instead of from the usual source4 ,it can now be obtained in specialty stores and in some of the grocery stores of the larger cities4 ,cut one-half of an ounce of ,japanese gelatine into fine pieces1 and pour over it two cupsful of warm water4 ,ordinary gelatine can not be substituted4 ,let it stand for at least two hours4 ,the results will be much better if the soaking is allowed to take a whole night4 ,set this gelatine water on the fire and stir it until it comes to a boil and the gelatine is wholly dissolved4 ,mix one pound of sugar and one-half of a pound of glucose2 into them strain the gelatine4 ,set the resulting mixture on the fire and cook it until it is very stringy as it drops from the paddle4 ,when stirring1 scrape the bottom of the kettle well as the mixture sticks very easily4 ,run a half pound of figs through a grinder4 ,when the gelatine mass is cooked1 as above1 remove it from the fire1 add a few drops of oil of lemon or a teaspoonful of lemon extract1 and thoroughly mix in the figs4 ,dust a marble slab with confectioner's sugar1 place candy bars in position1 and pour the mass between them so as to form about one-half inch thick4 ,if the candy is allowed to cool a little before it is poured out1 and is carefully stirred1 the figs will not separate and come to the top4 ,dust the top with the sugar and let it remain over night4 ,to finish the confection1 cut it into squares by simply pressing the knife down through it4 ,roll the pieces in confectioner's sugar1 and pack them in an air-tight box4 ,seaweed4--,this gelatine called for by this receipt is also known as ,japanese isinglass1 agar-agar1 and kanten4 ,it is peculiar to ,japan4 ,it is made from seaweed1 the great unused resource of the western world4 ,the ,orient alone to any extent uses seaweed as a food1 and1 of the ,orient1 only ,japan shows appreciation of its agricultural and commercial value4 ,kanten is the product of five hundred manufacturing plants in ,japan1 with an annual output of over three million pounds4 ,the usual commercial gelatine is made from animal tissues--skin1 ligaments1 tendons1 or the matrix of bones1 particularly of horns and hoofs4 ,seaweed as a source for gelatine appeals somewhat more to the imagination6 ,kanten is made from the gelidium family of seaweed which grows in deep water upon the rocks4 ,coolies dive for the seaweed4 ,they wash and dry it by the seaside1 and sell it at seven or eight cents a pound to the factories for gelatine manufacture4 ,the perfect purity of kanten is proved by its use as a culture medium in bacteriological work4 ,gelidium grows on both coasts of ,america from ,canada to the ,gulf4 ,this is true1 also1 of red laver which is largely used as a food in ,japan and unknown here4 ,in ,japan it is baked or toasted until crisp and used in sauces and soups4 ,it is palatable1 and nutritious1 being rich in proteids4 ,red laver is not abundant in ,japan and is being cultivated4 ,sea farming is becoming an important industry under the supervision of the government4 ,the red laver beds are now rented out by the season to the sea farmers with average crop returns of one hundred and fifty dollars per acre4 ,kelp1 also1 is utilized in ,japan1 not alone for glue1 sizing and iodine1 but as a food--kombu4 ,in this country1 it is sometimes used to fertilize the low-lying1 barren lands near the shore4 ,in the marketing of the vegetable sea food known as ,irish moss1 ,new ,england comes to the fore4 ,this is a delicious food product used much as corn starch for blancmange1 jellies1 custards1 and puddings4 ,in a book relating to candy-making1 why this information concerning the unappreciated food value of seaweed8 ,because the discovery of the possibilities that cheap and common vegetables can well serve as the basis for the best candy may well be supplemented by the utilization of seaweeds1 valuable as a food1 but now wasted4 ,in the midst of her work1 the candy-cook may well stop to think that it is by putting cheap and common things to new uses that the race will make material progress4 ,,xx ,,stuffed ,,fruits ,dates for ,candy4--,for the basis of dates as candies1 ,fard dates are perhaps the best because they are generally whole with unbroken skins4 ,if ,persian dates are to be used instead1 they should be of the sort that come packed in single layers or in small boxes4 ,the skins of ,persian dates are tender and when taken from boxes holding fifteen or twenty pounds are torn by the sharp pick used to handle them4 ,when cream fillings are used1 however1 softer dates can be substituted if they are carefully handled4 ,sparkling ,dates4--,wash1 steam1 pit1 and dry4 ,fill them with rhubarb marmalade1 and close them very tightly4 ,brush the whole outside surface with the unbeaten white of an egg1 and roll the dates so coated in coarse granulated sugar4 ,if ,fard dates cannot be obtained1 select as perfect ,persian dates as possible4 ,fill them with rhubarb marmalade as for the ,fard dates1 but do not use the egg coating4 ,simply roll in the sugar4 ,chocolate ,covered ,dates4--,proceed as above up to the point at which the dates are rolled in sugar4 ,to make the chocolate confection1 roll the dates in confectioner's sugar1 instead of in the coarse granulated4 ,after they have dried1 coat them as usual with chocolate4 ,date ,brilliants4--,wash1 steam1 and pit dates2 fill them with either vegetable cream or cream fondant4 ,dip them singly in a crystal syrup1 cooked to two hundred and twenty-five degrees4 ,dry them on a rack4 ,for fillings1 a great variety is possible4 ,add finely chopped nuts or granulated cocoanut to the vegetable cream1 or use rhubarb marmalade1 tart jam1 or orange marmalade4 ,rhubarb ,marmalade4--,the fillings suggested for date brilliants are all within the knowledge of the candy-cook1 except1 perhaps1 rhubarb marmalade4 ,as the basis for it1 wipe clean with a damp cloth stalks of rhubarb4 ,they must not be put into water4 ,peel them and cut them into very thin slices4 ,cover each pound of rhubarb with one and one-quarter pounds of granulated sugar4 ,let the mixture stand over night4 ,in the morning1 boil it for ten minutes1 or a little longer if the rhubarb is not soft4 ,grind one-third of a pound of dried figs2 remove the rhubarb and sugar from the fire2 to them add the figs and stir until they are thoroughly mixed4 ,boil ten minutes more4 ,the marmalade should be put into glasses while hot1 and sealed at once4 ,sugared ,dates4--,prepare dates and fill as for date brilliants2 dip them in syrup1 and1 while still damp1 dust with granulated sugar4 ,stuffed ,dates4--,fill with any cream or marmalade and roll in granulated sugar1 dates washed1 strained1 steamed and pitted4 ,stuffed ,prunes4--,the sort of prunes that come in boxes are better to use than the ordinary ones because they are of a better quality1 and are separated in the curing4 ,barely cover the prunes with cold water1 and allow them to stand over night4 ,one method is to pour the water off the next morning1 pit the prunes1 and use them as they are4 ,if the prunes are moist and firm to begin with1 the soaking is probably all that is necessary4 ,otherwise the second method is the one to be followed4 ,if so1 after the prunes have been soaked1 place them over the fire and allow them to come to a boil quickly4 ,this application of heat is sure to plump out prunes that have become dry1 or have been over-cured4 ,the difficulty1 however1 is that there is danger that the juice will be started1 and much of it lost1 and that the skins may be broken4 ,the second method will destroy the raw taste to which some persons object4 ,no matter which method has been followed1 fill each prune with tart jam1 orange marmalade1 rhubarb marmalade1 or with potato fondant1 cooked or uncooked1 with or without the addition of nuts4 ,to finish1 coat each prune with the unbeaten white of an egg1 and roll in granulated sugar4 ,if it is desired1 they can be rolled in confectioner's sugar1 dried and coated with chocolate4 ,,xxi ,,angelique ,rings4--,angelique is a vegetable that is of the greatest use as an accessory in the making of many sorts of vegetable candy4 ,that fact1 however1 should not obscure the equally important fact that its flavor is excellent and that it may well be used as a base4 ,rings made from it are very good if filled with any one of the four mixtures described below4 ,and1 as the reader will see by looking at ,no4 #ae of the frontispiece1 they are good to look upon4 ,illustration3 ,angelica ,archangelica ,as a beginning1 no matter what filling is to be chosen1 cut crystallized angelique cross-wise into sections a quarter of an inch wide4 ,if these sections are flattened by packing or cutting1 separate the sides so that they form circles1 the more nearly perfect the better4 ,the fillings may be either potato fondant1 plain or colored1 and flavored to taste2 potato fondant with chopped nuts worked into it2 equal parts of potato fondant and almond paste2 or rhubarb marmalade1 with confectioner's sugar worked into it if it appears too moist4 ,when the fillings are in place1 each ring should be dipped separately into a crystal1 cooked to two hundred and twenty degrees1 and then should be allowed to drain on a wire rack4 ,the next day the process should be repeated4 ,when the rings have become thoroughly dry1 they will be found very useful for almost any sort of serving or packing4 ,the outside is firm1 and the centers soft4 ,orange ,rings4--,rings made from candied orange peel may be treated similarly4 ,cut the peel into rings by using one-half and one quarter inch cutters4 ,thereafter both process and fillings are the same4 ,an interesting combination can be made by arranging three small orange rings in a cluster1 and holding them in position by the syrup4 ,in addition to the filling1 a pignolia nut may be placed in each ring4 ,see ,no4 #ai of the frontispiece4 ,angelique as a ,plant4--,angelique or angelica is so called because in early centuries it was thought to be a specific for poison and pestilence4 ,it is an aromatic garden herb1 of an order of plants of the cohort umbelliferae1 known popularly as the parsley family4 ,the order is one of strongly marked properties4 ,some of its members contain an aromatic oil and furnish condiments--as anise1 dill1 caraway1 and coriander4 ,from another group these qualities are nearly absent and the stem and leaf are edible--as in celery1 angelique and parsley2 or the root--as in carrot and parsnip4 ,angelique is native to many temperate parts of ,europe and ,america4 ,it grows on river banks and in other damp places4 ,it is easily cultivated and often grows to the height of six feet4 ,its seeds may be sown in the autumn as soon as they are ripe1 or they may be planted in the spring4 ,angelique develops a plant much like celery4 ,it is blanched and eaten the same way4 ,the stalk is used commercially when crystallized or candied4 ,it is green in color and pleasingly pungent in flavor1 and lends itself in many ways to the use of the candy-maker4 ,it comes generally in strips six or seven inches long and is cut according to the special directions for the different candies4 ,angelique is so easy to raise and is of such value that two methods of handling it when home grown are given below4 ,why so many candy-makers with gardens continue to buy it when it can be cultivated so easily is a mystery4 ,preserved ,green ,angelique4--,select angelique that is fresh1 young1 crisp1 and as tender as possible4 ,cut the stalks into six inch lengths2 wash them thoroughly4 ,boil them in water for ten minutes1 and drain them4 ,thereupon1 boil them in a syrup for half an hour4 ,let them cool in the syrup4 ,store in wide-mouthed bottles or jars4 ,dried ,angelique4--,prepare the angelique as before4 ,cut the stalks into strips1 lozenges1 or large and small rings4 ,boil them in the syrup three or four times--as was directed before4 ,after draining1 roll each piece in powdered sugar4 ,dry them thoroughly on a screen1 and store carefully4 ,,xxii ,,for ,,the ,,caterer ,vegetable candy opens up a new field for the caterer4 ,it furnishes him material that is not only cheaper but better than that with which he has been accustomed to work4 ,not only are the results better1 but they are achieved by the expenditure of much less effort4 ,potato fondant can be made to assume clear outlines without the hour after hour beating required by the traditional ,french methods4 ,moreover1 the caterer's customers can have the satisfaction of knowing that the pretty things that they are buying are not made with the help of plaster of ,paris or other ingredients of which the less there is said the better6 ,the caterer should take particular note of the illustration facing page #ach4 ,it will suggest many of the uses to which the new mediums can be put4 ,the caterer1 also1 should read with particular care the chapter relating to decorative candy4 ,chapter and illustration together will furnish him with ideas as to how he can make use of this discovery in his own profession4 ,of course1 for success1 absolute familiarity with the processes of vegetable candy-making is essential4 ,there are a few definite points which should be borne in mind1 however1 by the person who wishes to use vegetable candy in catering4 ,flowers can be wired and used as bouquets4 ,as will be seen from the illustration facing the next page1 to hold candles for use on birthday cakes there is no need to use the objectionable wire cups4 ,smaller flower cups made from potato fondant can be substituted4 ,an excellent method is to use them in the border4 ,there1 they are not only useful but highly decorative4 ,nor need there be used cups made from starch1 plaster of ,paris1 or other inedible mixtures4 ,the possibilities of using potato fondant as the base for fancy cups to hold ice creams and ices are unlimited4 ,for instance1 the fondant can be molded into cups of conventionalized flower designs4 ,the caterer should remember that these cups should be dipped one or more times in a crystal syrup4 ,this will not only make them resemble somewhat the ever popular spun sugar1 but will tend to make them impervious to the melting ices or creams4 ,as a result1 the fondant itself will retain its crispness4 ,a similar use is for novel containers for salted almonds and nut meats4 ,illustration3 ,for the ,caterer ,one great advantage of the use of objects made from vegetable candy is that they may very easily be made to follow the color schemes used at luncheons or dinners4 ,the color may be very easily applied to the exterior or may be worked into the mass itself before it is molded4 ,just how these operations should be followed will readily be seen by re-reading ,chapter ,,viii1 division ,,iii1 ,,decorative ,,candies ,,from ,,potato ,,fondant4 ,for instance1 if pink is the color for the luncheon1 wild roses easily suggest themselves as promising decorations4 ,the form of the wild rose lends itself readily to cups1--the larger ones for ices and the smaller for nuts4 ,if the function is a birthday1 wild roses may well be used for candle cups on cakes4 ,if not a birthday1 and decorative icing is desired for large or small cakes1 nothing could be prettier than the roses4 ,they can be used either as a border of conventional regularity around a large cake or in the center of small1 round cakes covered with white icing4 ,as a flower decoration1 candy wild roses can be placed in a vase in the middle of the table4 ,to carry the place cards1 there may be a butterfly alighting upon each rose cup holding nuts4 ,these butterflies can be made of vegetable candy1 water color paper1 or bolting cloth2 whatever their material1 they must be wired1 or glued1 with a few drops of crystal syrup1 to the edge of the rose4 ,if1 however1 the luncheon is to be violet1 other decorations can be used4 ,the center piece may be a large bunch of pop-corn violets4 ,at each plate there may be ,french baskets1 made from potato fondant colored pale violet1 filled with cocoanut violets4 ,to give the idea that the baskets have just come from the florist's1 to each there may well be tied a card bearing the name of the guest4 ,in this instance1 it would be well for the ice to be served in a fondant basket and capped with a few violets4 ,the caterer will readily see that vegetable candy offers itself in countless ways in connection with place cards4 ,the new candy can not only be used as the holder for daintily designed cards1 but the design itself may be painted directly upon the object modeled from potato fondant or potato paste4 ,the first method is likely to be rather more easy in its process and attractive in its results1 on the whole1 but the second has the distinction of novelty4 ,it surely is an interesting thing for the guests to be able to eat their place cards1 decoration1 design1 and all6 ,for ,easter1 yellow is a particularly good color4 ,for ices1 cups and cases can be made of white and yellow fondant modeled in the form of jonquils or daffodils4 ,carrot rings1 served with the salad course1 would add a touch of variety4 ,as is suggested in the chapter concerning decorative candies1 potato fondant can be made to serve the table decorator especially well for special times and functions4 ,insignia can easily be formed of fondant1 either as separate forms to be wired and used as place cards or as place cards attached to the little cases--paper or fondant4 ,a ,masonic dinner1 for instance1 would use the square and compass in different ways1 and one for the ,odd ,fellows would make use of their three links4 ,for college banquets1 the appropriate ,greek letter insignia could be used4 ,in this case1 however1 the caterer must make sure that he is not violating any of the rules of the societies to which his guests belong4 ,for any decoration that is flat instead of modeled1 the potato paste can be substituted for the potato fondant4 ,thus1 in the case last cited above1 many of the insignia can be cut from paste more easily than they can be modeled from fondant4 ,a tinsmith can easily make a cutter that will save time if a number of the same design are desired4 ,the paste can be used with the fondant1 either in the same object or separately for the same occasion4 ,vegetable candy can be made by the skillful amateur as readily as by the manufacturer4 ,no large plant or complicated machinery is required4 ,as a result1 the girl or woman with a skill that is great1 but a bank account that is small1 may find vegetable candy the road to a profitable catering trade4 ,if in a small town1 she can--if she is sufficiently skillful--fashion decorations for food that will rival the products of the art of the city caterer4 ,moreover1 inasmuch as she is put to comparatively little expense1 and is using comparatively cheap ingredients1 she can undersell her urban competitor4 ,and her fellow townswomen who buy her wares will have the distinct satisfaction of knowing that her product is free from harmful ingredients4 ,,xxiii ,,for ,,the ,,teacher ,the discovery of vegetable candy has been of great pedagogic value4 ,teachers of household arts and all art are beginning to find that the new bases are of great service to them in their class work4 ,before this discovery1 there was no medium which was of use for both cooking and the modeling classes4 ,now cooking classes and modeling classes can be correlated in such a way that much is promised both4 ,the processes in the making of potato fondant and potato paste illustrate fundamental principles in domestic science4 ,with the exercise of a little care on the part of the teacher1 their making can be as simple and educationally valuable as the traditional first lesson in peppermint drops4 ,in the fashioning of these new candies1 however1 there is more incentive to the child than there was in the cooking of the old-fashioned confection1 no matter how delectable it might be4 ,but the pedagogic value of vegetable candy does not fall wholly within the field of household arts4 ,as has been explained in the chapter concerning decorative candy1 potato fondant and paste are the basis of very attractive objects4 ,their fashioning1 obviously1 can be made to teach principles of line1 design and color4 ,is it not safe to say that no other modeling medium--edible or inedible--possesses this threefold recommendation8 ,fondant or paste can be colored by painting directly upon the finished surfaces1 or the coloring matter can be worked into the mass4 ,in either case1 there is a pleasing relief from the gray or green of clay and its preparations4 ,now the child can model in natural colors what he sees on his nature study rambles4 ,now he can make roses in their natural colorings and shadings1 and buds that are not wholly a dull1 dead green6 ,moreover1 potato fondant can be modeled so as to have clearer outlines than clay4 ,there are two disadvantages1 however1 which should be stated3 first1 potato fondant must be handled with moderate quickness in order to give the best results1 and1 second1 it is so good that there is danger that the pupil will prematurely eat his lesson6 ,because the finished product is good to eat as well as to look upon1 potato fondant as a modeling medium adds to the teacher's resources another incentive for the child4 ,in work with defective children1 it has been found1 again and again1 that the more senses to which appeal can be made1 the better4 ,do not the same principles apply to the normal child1 although with somewhat lessened force8 ,in art work with vegetable candy1 sight and touch are not the only senses in operation2 taste and smell are in full play4 ,often1 teachers of both art and household arts are perplexed when it comes time for the annual school exhibition4 ,what can we do1 they ask1 that will be properly illustrative of our work and1 at the same time1 of appeal to the popular imagination8 ,it is hoped that vegetable candy offers an answer to this question4 ,its novelty and hygienic value are such that parents of the children are interested in it4 ,moreover1 the unusual interest of the children themselves has been known to react upon the parents4 ,suggestions for the details of working out the school use of vegetable candy will be found in the pages which precede4 ,the teachers should read with particular care the chapter which refers to decorative candy1 and particularly the division relating to modeling4 ,they will find many hints as to how it can be successfully applied to their own school work4 ,,the ,,end ,,index ,,index ,abel1 ,mrs4 ,mary ,h41 on value of sugar in diet1 #dh4 ,accuracy1 necessity for1 #c4 ,almonds1 ,celtic1 #hf4 ,angelique1 dried1 #ace2 preserved green1 #ace2 plant1 #acc2 rings1 #acb4 ,apples1 red1 as decorative candies1 #gj4 ,bars1 for forming masses1 #ad-ae4 ,bars1 chocolate1 #hg4 ,ball1 hard1 #ai1 #bb2 soft1 #ai1 #bb4 ,bean1 #ajb-ajd2 bean taffy1 #ajc2 candied green beans1 #ajb2 nut bean taffy1 #ajd2 pulled taffy1 #ajd4 ,beet1 #aje-aji2 beet cubes1 #ajg2 beet puffs1 #ajf2 crystallized beets1 #ajh2 frosted beet slice1 #aje2 spiced beets1 #aji2 spiced beet bon-bons1 #aji4 ,boiler1 use of double1 #bd1 #be4 ,bon-bons1 spiced beet1 #aji4 ,bon-bon dipper1 #h4 ,boutonnieres1 parsnip1 #ie-if2 violet1 #ei-fj4 ,brilliants1 date1 #abi2 date1 with rhubarb marmalade1 #acj4 ,burs1 nut1 #aad4 ,calla lily1 as decorative candy1 #fi4 ,caramel1 opera1 #hc2 potato1 #hj-hc4 ,carrot1 #ig-aja2 crystallized1 #ih2 garden ginger1 #ii2 rings1 #ig2 rolls1 #ih4 ,caterer1 the1 #acf-adb2 coloring for1 #ach2 cups1 #acg2 decorations1 #aci1 #adj2 flowers1 #acg2 potato fondant for1 #acf4 ,celtic almonds1 #hf4 ,chocolate1 bars1 #hg2 coating1 #cf-dj2 covered dates1 #abi2 in crystallization1 #bg2 marshmallow1 #aab2 nougatines1 #aad2 peppermints1 #hf4 ,child1 the1 craving for sweets of1 vii1 viii2 sugar for1 viii1 #dg-ea2 ,mrs4 ,mary ,hinman ,abel on1 #dh4 ,cleanliness1 necessity for1 #d4 ,climatic conditions1 in candy making1 #d2 in chocolate coating1 #ce1 #cf4 ,cocoanut violets1 #eh4 ,cold tablets1 onion1 #abj4 ,cornlettes1 #aag2 nut1 #aah4 ,corn starch1 for drying1 #ah4 ,crack1 #ai1 #bb4 ,creams1 pecan1 #he2 raisin1 #he2 vegetable1 #hh4 ,crystallization1 #bg-cb2 beets1 #ajh2 chocolate in1 #bg2 crystal syrup1 #bh1 #bi2 ,french hand1 #cj2 basis for parsnip candy1 #ic2 sugar1 #bh4 ,crystallized beets1 #ajh4 ,crystal syrup1 #bh1 #bi4 ,dates1 candy1 #abh2 chocolate covered1 #abi2 date brilliants1 #abi2 rhubarb marmalade for1 #acj2 sparkling dates1 #abh2 stuffed dates1 #acj2 sugared1 #acj4 ,decorative candies1 #eb-gi2 from potato paste1 #eb-eg2 green leaves1 #ef2 potato paste1 #ec2 violets1 #eg-fa2 cocoanut violets1 #eh2 pop-corn violets1 #eg2 violet boutonnieres1 #ei1 #fj2 from potato fondant1 #fa-gi2 calla lily1 #fi2 coloring for1 #fd-ff2 cooked potato fondant1 #fb2 daisy1 white1 #ff2 daisy1 yellow1 #fi2 grapes1 #gg2 modeled candy1 #fb2 new potato1 #ge2 parsnip boutonniere1 #ie2 pea pod1 #gf2 red apples1 #gj2 rose buds1 #gd2 single rose1 #gb2 snow balls1 #gf2 uncooked potato fondant1 #fa2 white daisy1 #ff2 yellow daisy1 #fi4 ,degrees1 on candy thermometer1 #bb4 ,dishes1 white enamel best1 #ab4 ,dipper1 bon-bon1 #h4 ,double boiler1 use of1 #bd1 #be4 ,dropping funnel1 #aa4 ,fondant1 potato1 decorative candies from1 #fa-gi2 calla lily1 #fi2 coloring for1 #fd-ff2 cooked potato fondant1 #fb2 daisy1 white1 #ff2 daisy1 yellow1 #fi2 grapes1 #gg2 modeled candy1 #fb2 new potato1 #ge2 parsnip boutonniere1 #ie2 pea pod1 #gf2 red apples1 #gj2 rose buds1 #gd2 single rose1 #gb2 snow balls1 #gf2 uncooked potato fondant1 #fa2 white daisy1 #ff2 yellow daisy1 #fi4 ,frosted beet slice1 #aje4 ,funnel1 dropping1 #aa4 ,fruits1 stuffed1 #abh-aca2 dates1 #abh2 dates1 chocolate covered1 #abi2 date brilliants1 #abi2 rhubarb marmalade for1 #abi2 dates1 stuffed1 #acj2 dates1 sugared1 #acj2 stuffed prunes1 #acj4 ,garden ginger1 #ii4 ,gelidium1 #abe4 ,ginger1 garden1 #ii4 ,glucose1 #df4 ,grapes1 in decorative candy1 #gg4 ,green leaves1 in decorative candy1 #ef4 ,hard ball1 #ai1 #bb4 ,hard crack1 #ai1 #bb4 ,hook1 taffy1 #ac4 ,irish moss1 #abf4 ,kanten1 #abe4 ,kelp1 #abf4 ,knife1 special1 #ab1 #ac2 for cutting in1 #ad2 palette1 #ee4 ,knots1 sweet potato1 #ia4 ,marshmallow1 chocolate1 #aab2 tomato1 #aaj4 ,mat1 rubber1 #i4 ,mocha walnuts1 #hd4 ,modeled candy1 #fb-fd4 ,modeling stick1 #af4 ,moss1 ,irish1 #abf4 ,netting1 wire1 used in draining fruits1 #e1 #ag4 ,nougatines1 chocolate1 #aad2 vegetable1 #aab4 ,novice1 help for the1 #c-g4 ,nut burs1 #aad4 ,nut cornlettes1 #aah4 ,onion cold tablets1 #abj4 ,orange rings1 #acc4 ,oriental paste1 #abc4 ,packing1 of candies1 #f4 ,parsnip1 #ic-if2 boutonnieres1 #ie-if2 candied1 #ic-ie4 ,paste1 oriental1 #abc2 potato1 #eb2 potato1 use by teachers1 #adc4 ,pastilles1 sweet potato1 #ib4 ,patties1 sweet potato1 #ij4 ,pea pods1 in decorative candies1 #gf4 ,pecan creams1 #he4 ,peppermint chocolates1 #hf4 ,pop-corn violets1 #eg4 ,potato1 new1 in decorative candy1 #ge2 caramels1 #hj-hc2 celtic almonds1 #hf2 chocolate bars1 #hg2 mocha walnuts1 #hd2 pecan creams1 #he2 peppermint chocolates1 #hf2 raisin creams1 #he2 sweet potato1 #ij-ib2 knots1 #ia2 pastilles1 #ib2 patties1 #ij4 ,potato fondant1 decorative candies from1 #fa-gi2 cooked1 #fb2 uncooked1 #fa2 modeled candy from1 #fb2 coloring for1 #fd-ff2 calla lily1 #fi2 daisy1 white1 #ff2 daisy1 yellow1 #fi2 grapes1 #gg2 modeled candy #fb2 new potato1 #ge2 parsnip boutonniere1 #ie2 pea pod1 #gf2 red apples1 #gj2 rose buds1 #gd2 single rose1 #gb2 snow balls1 #gf2 white daisy1 #ff2 yellow daisy1 #fi4 ,potato paste1 #eb4 ,prunes1 stuffed1 #acj4 ,pulling taffy1 #f1 #g4 ,racks1 for drying1 #ag4 ,raisin creams1 #he4 ,red apples1 in decorative candy1 #gj4 ,rings1 angelique1 #acb2 carrot1 #ig2 orange1 #acc4 ,rose1 buds1 as decorative candy1 #gd2 single1 as decorative candy1 #gb4 ,scale1 thermometer1 #bb4 ,screens1 #ag4 ,sea weed1 as food1 #abd2 gelidium1 #abe2 ,irish moss1 #abf2 kanten1 #abe2 kelp1 #abf4 ,snow balls1 in decorative candy1 #gf4 ,soapstone1 used as working slab1 #e4 ,sparkling dates1 #abh4 ,spiced beets1 #aji4 ,spiced beet bon-bons1 #aji4 ,steam1 candy making1 #bd-bf2 double boiler1 use of1 #bd1 #be2 steaming1 #bd2 steam bath1 #be4 ,stuffed fruits1 #abh-aca2 dates1 #abh2 dates1 chocolate covered1 #abi2 date brilliants1 #abi3 rhubarb marmalade for1 #abi2 dates1 stuffed1 #acj2 dates1 sugared1 #acj2 stuffed prunes1 #acj4 ,sugar #da-ea2 for children1 #dg-ea2 for crystallization1 #bh2 glucose1 #df2 rolling candies in1 #e1 #f2 value of1 #da-dc2 varieties of1 #dd4 ,sugared dates1 #acj4 ,sweet potato1 knots1 #ia2 pastilles1 #ib2 patties1 #ij4 ,sweets1 necessity of1 i1 ii1 viii4 ,tablets1 onion cold1 #abj4 ,taffy1 bean1 #ajc2 nut bean1 #ajd2 pulling1 #f1 #g4 ,taffy hook1 #ac4 ,teacher1 the1 #adc-adf2 potato paste or fondant as medium for1 #add4 ,thermometer1 #ai-bc2 scales1 #bb2 crack1 #ai1 #bb2 hard ball1 #ai1 #bb2 hard crack1 #ai1 #bb2 soft ball1 #ai1 #bb2 thread1 #ai1 #bb4 ,thread1 #ai1 #bb4 ,tomato1 #aaj-aaf2 chocolate marshmallow1 #aab2 chocolate nougatine1 #aad2 nut burs1 #aad2 tomato marshmallow1 #aaj2 vegetable nougatine1 #aab4 ,utensils1 bars1 forming1 #ad1 #ae2 bon-bon dippers1 #h2 dropping funnel1 #aa2 knife1 for cutting in1 #ad2 knife1 palette1 #ee2 knife1 special1 #ab1 #ac2 modeling stick1 #ag2 rubber mat1 #i2 screens1 #ag2 taffy hook1 #ac2 wooden spoon and paddle1 #ab4 ,vegetable candy1 keeping quality of1 ii2 modeling medium1 iv2 sociological value of1 iv4 ,vegetable creams1 #hh4 ,vegetable nougatines1 #aab4 ,violets1 #eg-fa2 boutonnieres1 #ei1 #fj2 cocoanut1 #eh2 pop-corn1 #eg4 ,walnuts1 mocha1 #hd4 ,weather1 influence on candy making1 #d1 #ce4 ,white daisy1 as decorative candy1 #ff4 ,working slab1 soapstone used as1 #e4 ,wooden utensils1 spoon and paddle1 #ab4 ,yellow daisy1 as decorative candy1 #fi4 99 99 99 99 99 ,transcriber's ,notes3 ,obvious punctuation errors repaired4 ,bold text is indicated by equal signs and italic text by underscores4 ,the illustration captioned ,fascinating to the ,child has been moved from page ii to page #gb as that is where the text references it more than once4 ,second ,illustration3 discription changed to description 7,see description7 ,table of ,contents1 ,cornlet changed to ,cornlette 7,,xvii ,cornlette7 ,page viii1 marshmellows changed to marshmallows 7,caramels1 marshmallows and7 ,page #af1 particularily changed to particularly 7is particularly useful7 ,page #aed1 #ff changed to #fi 7,yellow daisy1 as decorative candy1 #fi7