,libraries47 ,present-,day ,gardening ,,edited ,,by4444 ,r4 ,,hooper ,,pearson ,,managing ,,editor ,,of ,,the ,,gardeners' ,,chronicle4444 ,a ,,list ,,of ,,volumes ,,in ,,the ,,series ,,is ,,given ,,on ,,the ,,next ,,page4444 ,transcriber's ,note3 ,words surrounded by tildes1 like this signifies words in bold4 ,words surrounded by underscores1 like this1 signifies words in italics4 ,present-,day ,gardening ,list of ,volumes in the ,series4 #a4 ,,sweet ,,peas4 ,by ,,horace ,j4 ,,wright1 late ,secretary and ,chairman of the ,national ,sweet ,pea ,society4 ,with ,chapter on ,sweet ,peas for ,exhibition by ,,thos4 ,,stevenson4 #b4 ,,pansies1 ,,violas1 ,,and ,,violets4 ,by ,,william ,,cuthbertson1 ,j4,p41 and ,r4 ,,hooper ,,pearson4 #c4 ,,root ,,and ,,stem ,,vegetables4 ,by ,,alexander ,,dean1 ,v4,m4,h41 ,chairman of the ,national ,vegetable ,society4 #d4 ,,daffodils4 ,by the ,rev4 ,j4 ,,jacob1 ,secretary of the ,midland ,daffodil ,society1 with ,preface by the ,rev4 ,w4 ,,wilks1 ,m4,a41 ,secretary of the ,royal ,horticultural ,society4 #e4 ,,orchids4 ,by ,,james ,o',,brien1 ,v4,m4,h41 ,secretary of the ,orchid ,committee of the ,royal ,horticultural ,society4 #f4 ,,carnations ,,and ,,pinks4 ,by ,t4 ,h4 ,,cook1 ,head ,gardener to ,queen ,alexandra at ,sandringham2 ,,james ,,douglas1 ,v4,m4,h42 and ,j4 ,f4 ,m',,leod1 ,head ,gardener to ,mr4 ,j4 ,pierpont ,morgan4 #g4 ,,rhododendrons ,,and ,,azaleas4 7,the first popular volume published on this subject47 ,by ,,william ,,watson1 ,a4,l4,s41 ,curator of the ,royal ,botanic ,gardens1 ,kew1 with ,preface by ,sir ,,fred4 ,w4 ,,moore1 ,m4,a41 ,a4,l4,s41 ,v4,m4,h4 #h4 ,,lilies4 ,by ,a4 ,,grove1 ,f4,l4,s41 with ,preface by ,h4 ,j4 ,,elwes1 ,f4,r4,s4 #i4 ,,apples ,,and ,,pears4 ,by ,,george ,,bunyard1 ,v4,m4,h41 ,chairman of ,fruit and ,vegetable ,committee of ,royal ,horticultural ,society4 #aj4 ,,roses4 ,by ,h4 ,r4 ,,darlington1 ,vice-,president of ,national ,rose ,society4 7,double volume47 #aa4 ,,irises4 ,by ,w4 ,,rickatson ,,dykes1 ,m4,a41 ,l4-es-,l4 ,with ,preface by ,,professor ,i4 ,,bayley ,,balfour1 ,d4,,sc41 ,f4,r4,s41 c4 #ab4 ,,annuals1 ,,hardy ,,and ,,half-,,hardy4 ,by ,c4 ,h4 ,,curtis1 ,hon4 ,sec4 of the ,national ,sweet ,pea ,society4 #ac4 ,,chrysanthemums4 ,by ,,thomas ,,stevenson1 with chapters by ,c4 ,,harman ,,payne and ,,charles ,e4 ,,shea4 #ad4 ,,tulips4 ,by the ,rev4 ,j4 ,,jacob4 #ae4 ,,the ,,rock ,,garden4 ,by ,,reginald ,,farrer1 ,author of ,among the ,hills1 ,my ,rock ,garden1 ,in a ,yorkshire ,garden1 c4 ,these will be followed by volumes on ,dahlias1 ,climbers1 ,trees and ,shrubs1 ,paeonies1 ,primulas1 ,window ,gardens1 ,cucumbers1 ,melons1 ,bedding ,plants1 ,hardy ,herbaceous ,plants1 ,ferns1 ,tomatoes1 ,bulbous ,plants1 ,peaches and ,nectarines1 ,vines1 ,stove and ,greenhouse ,plants1 c4 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,i 7,frontispiece7 ,,cypripedium ,,insigne ,,sanderae ,orchids ,by ,james ,o',brien ,with ,eight ,coloured ,plates ,illustration ,london3 ,t4,c4 ,e4,c4 ,jack #fg ,long ,acre1 w4c41 ,edinburgh ,,preface ,in the early days of ,orchid cultivation the idea was commonly entertained that these interesting plants could never become popular with the general public1 for the reason that their culture involves a great initial outlay and permanent expense4 ,that such an idea is incompatible with the facts is now admitted by all those who are most familiar with the subject4 ,there is no department of ,present-,day gardening that exhibits such wonderful progress as is shown in the ,orchid gardens and nurseries that are to be found in every portion of these ,isles4 ,at the same time1 the popularisation of ,orchid culture is only now in its very commencement4 ,amateurs are but just beginning to realise that ,orchids1 like other plants1 are capable of being understood by any one who really desires to understand them2 and1 when once understood1 the cool species1 at any rate1 are not less tractable than common greenhouse plants4 ,so much is this the case that the author of the present volume declares that even the house-holders in suburban districts who have but one conservatory may1 if they choose1 keep that structure furnished with ,orchids at a less expenditure of time and money than is necessary for the ,palms1 ,ferns1 and other species usually employed for the purpose4 ,orchid-growing in the past has been looked upon too much as a craze4 ,ruinously high prices have been asked for novelties1 and collectors have been ready enough to pay them in the hope of obtaining unique varieties4 ,this fact alone has frightened off average people4 ,it is hoped that the present volume will induce thousands to commence the culture of the cooler species1 as it clearly indicates the simplicity of the cultural principles whilst explaining in full all the principal details4 ,thanks to the experiments of former workers1 we are no longer dependent entirely on the introduction of plants from other countries4 ,seedling ,orchids are raised as freely as seedling ,fuchsias1 and home-raised seedlings1 as a rule1 thrive better than introduced species in the artificial cultivation we have to offer them4 ,readers will find the details of cross-breeding and seed-raising set out in the following pages at considerable length4 ,the author is one of the greatest ,orchid specialists the world has known4 ,as a practical cultivator in the old ,pine ,apple ,nurseries of ,messrs4 ,henderson1 he had the good fortune to flower many species for the first time after their introduction1 and ever since those early days he has continued to specialise in these plants4 ,he is secretary of the ,orchid ,committee of the ,royal ,horticultural ,society1 and in #ahig he was included in the first sixty horticulturists who were selected to receive the ,victoria ,medal of honour in commemoration of ,queen ,victoria's ,jubilee4 ,our grateful acknowledgments are made to ,lieut4-,col4 ,sir ,g4 ,l4 ,holford1 ,k4,c4,v4,o41 for his kindness in affording us facilities for getting the illustrations4 ,every plant illustrated is a first-rate specimen of its kind1 and all have been photographed in ,sir ,george ,holford's collection at ,westonbirt1 which is so well cultivated by his grower1 ,mr4 ,h4 ,g4 ,alexander4 ,,the ,,editor4 ,,contents ,,page ,,introduction1 #a ,,chap4 ,i4 ,,the ,,rise ,,and ,,progress ,,of ,,orchid ,,culture1 #c ,,ii4 ,,structure ,,of ,,orchid ,,flowers1 #f ,,iii4 ,,difficulties ,,to ,,overcome1 #h ,,iv4 ,,structure ,,of ,,the ,,orchid ,,house1 #i ,v4 ,,the ,,potting ,,and ,,basketing ,,process1 #bb ,,vi4 ,,removing ,,useless ,,leaves ,,and ,,bulbs1 #ca ,,vii4 ,,propagation ,,by ,,division1 #cd ,,viii4 ,,watering ,,epiphytal ,,orchids1 #ce ,,ix4 ,,manures ,,for ,,orchids1 #ci ,x4 ,,resting ,,orchids1 #dd ,,xi4 ,,specially ,,rare ,,and ,,valuable ,,plants1 #df ,,xii4 ,,diseases ,,and ,,insect ,,pests1 #dg ,,xiii4 ,,periodical ,,inspection1 #ej ,,xiv4 ,,orchids ,,for ,,the ,,conservatory1 #eb ,,xv4 ,,orchids ,,as ,,cut ,,flowers1 #ee ,,xvi4 ,,importing ,,orchids1 #ei ,,xvii4 ,,treatment ,,of ,,imported ,,orchids1 #fc ,,xviii4 ,,odours ,,of ,,orchids1 #fe ,,xix4 ,,hybridising ,,and ,,raising ,,seedling ,,orchids1 #fg ,,xx4 ,,enumeration ,,of ,,the ,,principal ,,genera ,,and ,,species ,,in ,,cultivation1 #ha ,,xxi4 ,,orchid ,,hybrids1 #aji ,,index1 #aaa ,,list ,,of ,,illustrations ,,plate ,i4 ,,cypripedium ,,insigne ,,sanderae1 ,frontispiece ,,page ,,ii4 ,,miltonia ,,vexillaria1 #ab ,,iii4 ,,dendrobium ,,wardianum1 #bd ,,iv4 ,,cattleya ,,trianae ,,var4 ,,hydra1 #dj ,v4 ,,brasso-,,cattleya ,,digbyano-,,mossiae1 #ef ,,vi4 ,,cymbidium ,,lowio-,,eburneum1 #gb ,,vii4 ,,oncidium ,,marshallianum1 #hh ,,viii4 ,,odontoglossum ,,crispum1 #ajb ,,orchids ,,introduction ,it is not necessary here to trace the history of ,orchid cultivation since its commencement a century and a half or so ago4 ,the earlier introductions were few and infrequent1 but they probably attracted as much attention as the subjects in our gardens obtain to-day4 ,it may be said of ,orchids that no class of plants has so well and consistently sustained the interest of cultivators1 which is partly because few1 if any1 plants have flowers that exhibit such diversity of form1 size1 and colouring4 ,but another reason for their popularity may be found in the fact that few plants are so easy to cultivate1 if placed in the care of a careful and earnest cultivator who applies the best methods which his own experience indicates and is willing to avail himself of the help which the experience of others has placed within his reach4 ,upwards of fifty years' continuous experience with ,orchids have necessarily presented to us much evidence as to the right or the wrong methods of carrying out the numerous operations connected with their culture4 ,nevertheless1 it may be said that common sense is one of the most important factors in cultivation1 and the grower who carefully thinks over the various problems as they arise1 and1 profiting by experience1 does his best to avoid former failures1 will obtain a measure of success far exceeding his expectations4 ,to those who know anything about the ordinary processes of growth and flower the plants tell their own tale4 ,they show when actively growing the period when a reasonable amount of heat and moisture is required1 and1 on the completion of growth of the deciduous species and the turning yellow of the leaves1 they tell just as plainly when the resting period has arrived4 ,it is so in all the important stages of their existence4 ,the extent of the present work having been determined by others in the same series1 the object has been to get as much useful information into it as possible1 to confine the matter to practical subjects and to avoid repetition4 ,it has therefore been arranged in a series of chapters1 each dealing with an important matter1 and available for reference when any question on the subject crops up in another portion of the book4 ,short notes follow on the principal genera known in gardens1 but the cultural remarks may be supplemented by reference to the cultural chapters4 ,anything like an enumeration of the more important species could not be attempted4 ,so also in the matter of hybrid ,orchids1 the question is discussed in two chapters dealing with the practical question of raising seedlings1 but only slight reference could be made to the species used in hybridising or to the numerous hybrids themselves4#a ,the amateur who engages in ,orchid culture and in the raising of seedlings will find that practice makes master4 ,it is in indicating the lines on which the practice may be best pursued that1 it is hoped1 this book may serve a useful purpose4 ,footnote #a3 ,readers may be referred to ,list of ,orchid ,hybrids1 published by ,f4 ,sander and ,sons4 ,,chapter ,i ,,the ,,rise ,,and ,,progress ,,of ,,orchid ,,culture ,the first tropical ,orchid to flower in the ,british ,isles appears to have been ,bletia verecunda 7,helleborine americana71 figured in ,historia ,plantorum ,rariorum1 #agbh-agce4 ,it bloomed in #agcb on a plant received by ,peter ,collinson from the ,bahamas in the previous year4 ,in succession to this appeared ,cypripedium spectabile and one or two other ,north ,american ,cypripediums2 ,vanilla aromatica1 and a few other species1 chiefly terrestrial ,orchids4 ,in #aghi ,aiton's ,hortus ,kewensis enumerated fifteen species of exotic ,orchids as being in cultivation at ,kew1 the tropical species being ,bletia verecunda1 ,epidendrum fragrans1 ,epidendrum cochleatum1 and ,phaius grandifolius4 ,at the end of the eighteenth century about fifty exotic species were recorded4 ,at that time most of the ,orchids were imported only to perish as a consequence of the unsuitable conditions in which they were grown4 ,the plants were potted in the most unlikely materials1 such as decayed wood1 sawdust1 loam1 tanner's bark1 or any other material which the cultivator thought would be useful in preventing the excessive mortality among his plants2 but in all cases the chances of success were discounted by the plants being placed near hot flues1 or plunged in tan or bark beds4 ,it was thought that a great success had been attained if a plant bloomed once before it died4 ,the year #ahjj may be said to be the real starting-point of rational ,orchid culture1 although1 even in the earlier part of the nineteenth century1 the old traditions still hindered progress4 ,in #ahjj ,aerides odoratum was introduced1 this being the first ,east ,indian ,orchid cultivated in this country4 ,in #ahag ,sir ,joseph ,banks brought about the cultivation of epiphytal ,orchids in light1 wicker baskets which were suspended in the ,orchid house or stove2 this is one of the most noteworthy events in the early history of ,orchid cultivation4 ,in #ahah ,cattleya labiata appeared1 and about the same time ,cypripedium insigne1 which has now two or three hundred varieties that enthusiasts consider sufficiently distinct to bear varietal names4 ,disa grandiflora and ,oncidium ,papilio appeared in #ahbe1 when about #ahj species of tropical ,orchids were in cultivation in the ,horticultural ,society's ,gardens4 ,this ,society gave a great impetus to ,orchid culture by sending out collectors into distant lands1 and ,dr4 ,lindley1 whilst ,editor of the ,gardeners' ,chronicle1 played a no less important part in studying and recording the species as they were received in this country4 ,the interest in ,orchid importing gradually spread1 and from the time when ,alan ,cunningham sent home ,australian ,orchids in #ahce the interest has never flagged1 the famous ,orchid collectors1 ,lobb1 ,gardner1 ,skinner1 ,hartweg1 ,gibson1 and others1 sending consignments from time to time from various parts of the world4 ,the first attempts to grow ,orchids in a reasonably low temperature were made in the first half of the nineteenth century1 one of the first to grasp the truth in this direction being ,joseph ,cooper1 who was gardener to ,earl ,fitzwilliam at ,wentworth4 ,but a considerable time elapsed before the more rational treatment1 which meant less artificial heat and more ventilation1 became general4 ,the culture was further improved by the introduction of the hot-water system of heating ,orchid houses1 a method which is now almost perfect and has done more to further ,orchid-growing than anything else4 ,the spread of information respecting the climatic conditions of the countries in which the plants were collected also helped cultivators in this country1 and the articles published in the ,gardeners' ,chronicle in #ahea by the late ,b4 ,s4 ,williams1 and subsequent articles by other experts1 were of great service4 ,the latter half of the nineteenth century was the most important era in the development of ,orchid cultivation4 ,a remarkable feature was the beginning of that industry which has now attained such widespread popularity1 namely1 the raising of hybrid ,orchids from seed4 ,the first hybrid ,orchid1 ,calanthe x ,dominyi 7obtained from a cross between ,c4 furcata and ,c4 ,masuca71 flowered with ,messrs4 ,james ,veitch ,sons in ,october #ahef4 ,the same firm subsequently produced many fine hybrid ,calanthes1 ,phalanopsis1 ,cattleyas1 ,laelias1 and ,laeliocattleyas4 ,many of these are now standard garden plants1 whilst the work of hybridising and raising hybrid ,orchids has become general4 ,another notable event in ,orchid culture during the period mentioned was the commencement of the ,cool-house or ,odontoglossum ,section of ,orchid ,culture4 ,in #ahfc1 ,weir1 ,blunt1 and ,schlim went to ,new ,granada in search of ,odontoglossums1 and they were successful in introducing plants of ,odontoglossum crispum 7,alexandrae71 collected above ,bogota4 ,these collectors also contributed to our knowledge of the proper methods of cultivating cool ,orchids4 ,so things have gone on until our own days4 ,orchids hold one of the most important places in gardens1 and such genera as ,odontoglossums and ,cypripediums are so popular that they are cultivated on an extensive scale even by many who do not care to grow a general collection of ,orchids4 ,,chapter ,,ii ,,structure ,,of ,,orchid ,,flowers ,most people are familiar with the regular arrangement of the segments of the flowers of ,amaryllids and ,lilies1 with their prominent pistils and anthers4 ,the first stage in the advance of the ,orchid family is shown in the ,apostasieae1 comprising ,apostasia1 ,neuwiedia and ,adactylus1 in which the perianth segments are more or less regular and the anthers in some degree prominent1 ,neuwiedia1 with its free stamens and prominent style1 appearing at first sight nearer to some of the ,amaryllids than to the ,orchideae commonly seen in gardens4 ,the ,cypripedieae1 although so widely separated from other sections as to suggest that in the operations of nature a vast number of connecting types must have become extinct1 is the next step1 the labellum being formed into a pouch with infolded side lobes4 ,the column has a prominent staminode with two fertile anthers below it1 one on each side of the column and behind the stigmatic plate4 ,the upper sepal is frequently the showiest feature in the flower2 the lower sepals are joined and arranged behind the lip1 whilst the petals extend on each side and vary much in form4 ,in gardens1 the whole of the genus is known as ,cypripedium1 although the ,south ,american species 7,selenipedium71 having a three-celled ovary1 differ widely from the one-celled ,east ,indian and ,malayan species1 and other sections have such marked and consistent botanical differences as to warrant the botanist in separating them under different sub-generic names4 ,the third section of ,orchidae1 the largest family of the ,monocotyledons1 forms the chief class of ,orchids as they are known in gardens4 ,in this class the stamens and style unite into a column1 and at the top of the column the pollen masses are situated2 these are covered by the anther-cap1 and in a cavity is the stigma with its viscid surface to receive the pollen grains4 ,so diverse and intricate are the forms of the flowers1 and especially labellums1 that there is little doubt that insect aid is necessary in their natural habitats to bring about pollination4 ,it has been proved by the operations carried out in cross-fertilisation in gardens that no class of plants can be so readily crossed under artificial conditions4 ,it is not necessary here to go further into structural details1 as the peculiarities of each section will be remarked on under their different headings4 ,but it may be said that in what are called abnormal flowers1 which have perfect stamens and style1 can be seen instances suggesting the evolutionary process2 these would be more common but for the number of connecting links which have dropped out in the great struggle for existence4 ,,chapter ,,iii ,,difficulties ,,to ,,overcome ,some of the difficulties which the cultivator of ,orchids has to contend against arise from the fact that his houses have to accommodate plants which have been brought from widely separated countries1 or from different altitudes in the same region4 ,they therefore require very different cultural conditions1 especially in the matter of temperature4 ,consideration of the climatic conditions under which the plants are found growing in their native habitats is very helpful to all engaged in ,orchid culture4 ,many problems have already been worked out by the experience of cultivators1 but some of the conclusions have been arrived at only after costly failures4 ,in the early days of ,orchid culture1 before the advent of the modern ,orchid house with its improved methods of ventilation and means for the promotion of humidity1 the great mortality among cultivated ,orchids was caused by excessive heat and drought4 ,even at the present day more mischief is done by excessive heat than by cold treatment4 ,,chapter ,,iv ,,structure ,,of ,,the ,,orchid ,,house ,so far as the improvements in present-day ,orchid houses are concerned1 these are not due to the imagination of the horticultural builder1 but to the experience of the ,orchid grower4 ,it is owing to him that the old-time glass sides1 with their hinged ventilators on a level with the plants1 and many other harmful arrangements1 have been abandoned4 ,moderately low1 span-roofed houses1 extending north and south for preference--although the aspect does not seem to be of vital importance--are the best1 the sides being wholly of brick1 and also the ends of all but the large houses1 in which the upper part may be formed of wood and glass4 ,the top ventilation should be admitted through ventilators placed at the highest point of the ridge1 and they are usually worked by a continuous system manipulated at one end4 ,the lower ventilators should be small ones fixed in the brick-work at the sides of the house1 and they may be arranged to be regulated from the outside1 or by means of rods attached to the flaps on the inside and reaching to the path1 being carried beneath the staging4 ,the natural earth is the best base for an ,orchid house1 and open wood-work trellises placed on the natural earth are far preferable to tiled paths1 therefore their use is strongly recommended4 ,beneath the central stage1 from end to end1 deep tanks with cemented interior should be provided1 because rain-water is essential for watering the plants4 ,to create a good appearance1 narrow1 ornamental rockeries may be arranged at the edge of the side staging and beneath it1 and in any part of the basement available4 ,these should be planted with ,begonias1 ,tradescantias1 such ferns as are not likely to be attacked by thrips1 ,selaginellas1 ,fittonias1 and ,ficus repens1 which are not liable to attacks from insects1 whilst their presence tends to preserve a healthy atmosphere in the house4 ,the rockeries beneath the staging should not be built high enough to obstruct the passage of the heat from the hot-water piping1 a rise of one foot from the ground level being sufficient4 ,in the warm-house1 ,eucharis grandiflora and other species of ,eucharis2 ,hymenocallis and ,pancratiums1 thrive and bloom well beneath the staging4 ,the inside of the roof should be wired for suspending baskets containing ,orchids1 and this should be done before the plants are placed in the house4 ,as regards the form of structure1 comparatively low1 span-roofed houses1 with brick sides reaching to the eaves1 and no side glass1 are the best1 the ends being of brick up to the height of the side walls1 the remaining part running up to the ridge1 in all but very small houses1 being formed of wood and glass4 ,if several houses are built1 spaces should be left between each house1 and no two or more houses should be built with partition walls1 for these prevent the necessary side ventilation4 ,a house of #ajj feet or so in length should have a division midway in its length1 which for some purposes gives the advantages of two houses4 ,pitch-pine or teak1 being durable1 are good woods for the wood-work1 and1 in any case1 the use of cheap1 soft timber should be avoided4 ,in glazing1 only a thin bedding of putty should be used1 and the glass should be bradded on the upper side1 as top putty when decaying or on becoming loose is worse than useless1 and tends seriously to foul the water in the cisterns4 ,span-roofed houses #ab feet to #ae feet wide1 and of proportionate elevation1 are suitable for ordinary ,orchids1 but if specimen plants are desired a loftier house will be necessary4 ,a range of houses should1 if possible1 be connected at the end which is most exposed to the north and north-east winds by a corridor or covered structure1 in which the potting-shed stores and entrance to the boiler hold should be arranged4 ,the greatest care must be taken that no fumes from the heating apparatus can find their way into either the corridor1 potting-sheds1 or plant-houses1 or the plants will suffer the worst consequences4 ,safety can easily be assured by thoroughly ventilating the stoke-hold and making the partition between the corridor or offices and the stoke-hold as air-tight as possible4 ,the wood-work1 when of pitch-pine or other hard wood planed smooth1 may be oiled or varnished1 painting being undesirable for new houses4 ,in course of time1 however1 painting has to be resorted to1 and it is one of the most trying operations about the ,orchid houses4 ,great care has to be taken to obtain a reliable quality of paint that will not harm the plants1 and to keep the house vacant for as long a time as possible for the gases from the paint to escape4 ,after the plants are returned to the house some ventilation must be maintained day and night for a time4 ,tar should not be used inside an ,orchid house for any purpose4 ,,the ,,staging ,the staging must be arranged according to the width of the house4 ,narrow houses may be provided with a stage on each side and a path through the centre4 ,other structures of sufficient width should be furnished with a side stage measuring #d feet to #d feet #f inches in width1 and a central stage on a somewhat higher level1 and rising in steps to the middle and highest point4 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,,ii ,,miltonia ,,vexillaria ,,empress ,,augusta ,,victoria 7,this specimen1 cultivated from a single growth1 bore #abf flowers47 ,iron frame-work is the best1 because it is clean and almost indestructible4 ,the uprights resting on the floor should be fixed in metal saucers1 which1 if kept filled with water1 offer great obstacles to insects ascending from the floor4 ,the open wood-work resting on the iron frames1 and on which the plants are to stand1 should be of teak or pitch-pine1 and arranged trellis-like4 ,for some years past it has been the practice to have a close1 moisture-holding stage of slate1 or tiles1 beneath the upper and open wood-work stage4 ,it was an invention of my own when adapting an ordinary plant-house with a slate stage to receive one of the earliest importations of ,odontoglossum crispum4 ,the existing slate stage was made water-tight at the joints1 and a fillet of cement was run along the back2 the surface was then covered with clean shingle1 and home-made trellises1 raised on bricks in three levels1 were placed along the close staging to receive the plants4 ,it proved a great success1 and in the same house the small1 bottom ventilators1 the first of their kind1 but which have now become general1 were an equally good innovation4 ,at that time1 and for many years afterwards1 the flooring of ,orchid houses was sealed by concrete or hard tiles1 and the moisture-holding lower stage was necessary to give a reasonable amount of evaporating surface4 ,more recently it has occurred to many of us that a moisture-giving surface might be obtained from the natural earth1 if the earth was left either in its natural state or was given a coating of coke-breeze or similar porous material1 and trellises used for the paths4 ,in a similar way provision had to be made for the second object of the close stage1 namely1 the checking of the direct upward heat from the hot-water pipes4 ,this has been done very effectively in some gardens by arranging a much less elaborate and costly means than the full1 close staging generally in use4 ,an iron frame is placed midway between the hot-water pipes and the staging on which the plants rest2 a shelf of corrugated iron1 slate1 or tiles1 extends from the back to about half the width of the side staging1 its inner edge being about midway in the space beneath the staging1 and an inch or so of space is left between the back of the shelf and the wall of the house to allow some of the heat from the pipes to pass that way1 the greater part being diverted towards the middle of the house by the intervention of the shelf which is covered with turf or some other moisture-holding material4 ,this is kept continually moist by frequent syringings during the warm season1 when plenty of moisture in the air is required4 ,in arranging new houses having the natural earth for a floor1 this plan is less expensive and altogether preferable to the formal1 close staging of full width1 which1 however1 should still be retained in adapting ordinary plant-houses already provided with a tiled or cemented base1 unless it is convenient to remove the tiles and restore the natural earth surface4 ,in arranging the staging1 one essential object has to be kept in view1 namely1 that no part of it shall be out of easy reach2 for very wide stages are apt to cause the plants in the back rows to suffer neglect4 ,,method ,,of ,,heating ,in these progressive times it is not well to lay down hard-and-fast rules with regard to the best type of appliance4 ,it should1 however1 be urged that every ,orchid house ought to be heated with hot water1 and1 that in all cases #d-;inch piping should be used1 the radiation of heat from that size being much more gentle and equal than from smaller pipes4 ,bottom heat by means of piping under closed-in beds of cocoa-nut fibre1 or any other material1 is bad1 although1 in a very slight degree1 some arrangement of the kind may be of assistance in the house devoted to raising seedlings4 ,if it is used1 an outlet must be provided for the inevitable moisture thus raised so that it will not condense and fall on the plants4 ,for small houses or blocks of houses1 the old saddle boiler in some form is all that can be desired2 and there are several forms of slow-combustion boilers which may be set almost on the surface of the ground outside the house1 and these are satisfactory4 ,for blocks of houses the ,english form of sectional boiler is one of the very best2 in large blocks duplicate sets of this pattern1 or any other type that may be selected1 should be set down1 as it provides means of heating the houses if the ordinary boiler happens to fail4 ,it is always better to provide more power than may appear absolutely necessary1 and work it at low pressure1 than to have barely sufficient power and work it hard during severe weather1 as the heat diffused in the latter case is harmful4 ,before deciding on the means of heating to be employed1 it would be well to pay a visit to some of the collections noted for the excellent condition of their plants1 and inspect the appliances and their arrangement4 ,most ,orchid growers1 whether in private establishments or nurseries1 are willing to assist amateurs in these matters4 ,when the apparatus has been got into working order1 tests should be made to ensure an equal distribution of the heat from the piping4 ,if a draught of hot air to any part of the house from beneath the staging is observed1 it is a good plan to build up openly-laid screens or brick walls #d-a_/b inches thick1 the layers of brick being placed so that there is half the length of the brick opening between each brick and the next to it4 ,where there is a sufficient command of heat1 these openly-laid brick walls1 without mortar1 built up below the side staging and running parallel with the edge of it1 if they are syringed frequently1 assist materially in preserving a healthy moisture in the house4 ,,temperature ,one of the most important matters in ,orchid cultivation is to see that a lower temperature is maintained at night than in the day4 ,nothing is more injurious to the plants than to be kept in a high temperature at night1 nor is anything more contrary to natural conditions4 ,all who have travelled in the countries from whence ,orchids have been imported testify to the great difference between the temperature during the day and that experienced at night1 the difference in some parts being that between an excessively hot day and a chilly night and early morning4 ,these cool conditions at night are absolutely necessary for the well-being of the plants1 and in their absence the plants suffer as do human beings during the progress of a heat-wave1 which often kills many people4 ,therefore it must be urged that at night the temperature must be from #e deg4 to #aj deg4 ,fahrenheit lower than the day temperatures4 ,this condition is difficult to get during hot weather1 but it is necessary4 ,although a scale of temperatures throughout the year must not be taken to mean that a little more heat may not be allowed occasionally--as1 for instance1 by sun-heat1 which is beneficial--nevertheless it is better to have a scale to form a basis1 and especially to emphasise the lower temperature at night4 ,table of ,temperatures for ,orchid ,houses ---------------------------------------- ------------------------------- ,months4 ,warm ,house1 ,cattleya or ,cool or ,east ,indian4 ,intermediate ,house4 ,odontoglossum ,house4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------- ,day4 ,night4 ,day4 ,night4 ,day4 ,night4 ,january #fe-gj #fj #fj-fe #ee #ej-ee #de ,february #fe-gj #fj #fj-fe #ee #ej-ee #de ,march #fe-gj #fj #fj-fe #ee #ee-fj #ej ,april #fe-gj #fj #fj-fe #ee #ee-fj #ej ,may #gj-ge #fe #fe-gj #fj #fj-fe #ee ,june #ge-hj #fe #gj-ge #fj #fj-fe #ee ,july #ge-he #fe #gj-hj #fe #fj-gj #ee ,august #ge-he #fe #gj-hj #fe #fj-gj #ee ,september #ge-hj #fe #gj-ge #fj #fj-fe #ee ,october #gj-ge #fe #fe-gj #fj #fj-fe #ee ,november #fe-gj #fj #fj-fe #ee #ee-fj #ej ,december #fe-gj #fj #fj-fe #ee #ej-ee #de ---------------------------------------- ------------------------------- ,degrees ,fahrenheit4 ,the higher day temperature should be obtained by sun-heat when possible4 ,further remarks on this and other details will be found under the headings of the different genera1 but it will be better now to state in general terms that during the season of active growth any reasonably high temperature by sun-heat1 secured by keeping the house tolerably close and well shaded1 greatly benefits the plants4 ,this is specially noticeable where batches of ,dendrobium nobile1 ,d4 ,wardianum1 and other deciduous ,dendrobiums are grown4 ,those who grow them best allow the house containing the plants to become very warm2 they remove the shading early in the afternoon in order to let the plants get the longest duration of light possible1 and they keep the house very moist until the evening4 ,,the ,,single ,,orchid ,,house ,it is doubtful whether the owner of a large collection of ,orchids gets a greater amount of pleasure than the beginner starting with but one ,orchid house1 provided the owner of the single structure is careful in selecting his plants4 ,in cases where only one ,orchid house is possible1 and a more or less general collection of plants is desired1 that house should be heated as an intermediate house4 ,the single ,orchid house has often been the starting-point of more extensive culture4 ,it is generally commenced by utilising an existing plant-house1 in some cases1 unfortunately1 without making the necessary preparation for the new occupants4 ,when it has been decided to adapt a house for ,orchids1 the proper course is to clear the house of its contents1 thoroughly overhaul the interior fittings1 such as staging1 c41 and make any alterations necessary4 ,the heating apparatus should be regulated1 and1 above all1 the best possible provision must be made for catching and storing rain-water1 even if this necessitates the providing of a brick and cement tank beneath the staging4 ,if the existing floor in the house is of concrete or tiles1 or any similar material1 it must be removed1 leaving the natural earth for the surface of the basement1 and providing a wood-trellis for walking on in spaces between the stages4 ,let the house be thoroughly cleansed and painted1 and after a short time has elapsed it will be ready to receive the plants4 ,in such a house heated as a cool1 intermediate house1 with a minimum temperature of #ej deg4 to #fj deg4 ,fahr4 in winter1 a large number of showy ,orchids can be grown successfully4 ,those species which require great heat should be carefully avoided1 for1 although cool-house ,orchids are easily managed in a house warmer than is necessary for them1 the hot-house kinds usually fail in a temperature which is too low to allow of their making growth under favourable conditions4 ,in such an intermediate house the ,odontoglossums1 ,masdevallias and other favourite cool-house ,orchids can be grown successfully1 if arranged in the cooler part of the house and carefully watered4 ,the ,cattleyas1 ,laelias1 and the garden hybrids should be placed on the staging in the middle of the house1 well up to the light2 the ,brazilian ,oncidiums1 ,sophronitis grandiflora1 and ,stanhopeas should be suspended from the roof of the house1 but in such positions as will avoid placing them over the plants on the side staging4 ,the ,odontoglossums and ,cochliodas may be accommodated on the side staging in the cooler and moister part of the house4 ,in such a house all the varieties of ,cypripedium insigne1 ,c4 ,spicerianum1 ,c4 ,charlesworthii1 and all the green-leafed section known as ,selenipediums1 will thrive admirably1 and a very large selection of other showy ,orchids1 including ,zygopetalums2 but again ,i would say that species which are usually regarded as warm-house ,orchids must be rejected4 ,,shading ,it should be distinctly understood that every ,orchid house needs to be fitted with proper means of shading1 extending over the whole roof and removable when necessary4 ,some cultivators think they meet the case by providing shading only on the sunny side1 or by painting the glass with some kind of preparation more or less in the nature of whitewash4 ,such preparations should never be used1 because1 when this is once placed on the glass1 the shade1 such as it is1 is there in dull as well as bright weather1 in the night time as well as the day1 and for the greater part of the time1 especially in dull seasons1 it obstructs light which is necessary for the proper development of the plants4 ,another important objection to their use is that shading given by these washes wears off and leaves the plants exposed to the full sunlight4 ,the substance is washed off by the rains and carried into the rain-water tanks1 thus causing injuries to the plants watered with the polluted water1 and rendering unsightly the foliage moistened with it4 ,proper blinds running on iron or wooden supports1 raising them well above the glass of the roof1 are absolutely necessary4 ,lath roller blinds are excellent for shading1 being durable1 clean1 and easily let down and drawn up4 ,light canvas or scrim shading fixed to roller blinds answers the purpose well1 but care should be taken not to employ heavy1 closely woven canvas4 ,too great attention cannot be paid to the working of these blinds1 for they must never be down except when required for protection against the sun's rays1 and they must be drawn up during dull intervals4 ,the blinds are useful also during severe winters as a protection against excessive cold at nights1 and in this particular the lath roller blinds are the best1 and may be left in position where they are likely to be required for this purpose4 ,when canvas blinds are used during the summer and removed in late autumn1 care should be taken to have them perfectly dry before they are stored for the winter in some dry place1 or they will be useless when they are required for placing in position the following spring4 ,,chapter ,v ,,the ,,potting ,,and ,,basketing ,,process ,we are often asked what season is the best for potting and basketing ,orchids4 ,experienced growers say that1 with the exception of the winter season1 they are engaged in potting operations all the year round1 potting each section as it requires it4 ,springtime is a period when a general overhaul of the plants is usual1 and1 at that time1 plants requiring it should be repotted1 but those which are not in the proper condition1 or which are showing flower-spikes1 should be allowed to remain until their flowering time has passed4 ,as a general rule1 it may be said that the best time to perform the operation is soon after the flowering season has passed1 and that no plant should be repotted unless it really requires it2 but any plant which has become in a bad condition in the pot by being in unsuitable material should be repotted at once1 no matter what season it may be4 ,care should be taken to use the pots and crocks in a thoroughly clean condition4 ,broken crocks are generally used for drainage1 although they are not now placed in the pots to the depth of one-half or more1 as they used to be4 ,the depth of the crocks varies from about one-third in ,cypripediums and terrestrial ,orchids generally1 to a rather greater depth for ,cattleyas1 ,laelias1 and similar ,orchids1 the depth of crocks also being varied according to the density of the material used1 fewer crocks being necessary when a mixture of ,osmunda fibre1 or other material which lets the water through quickly1 is employed in place of peat4 ,sand and crushed crocks or potsherds are used by many for mixing with the potting material1 but they may easily be dispensed with1 or used only in very small quantities4 ,turfy loam carefully broken up and mixed in suitable proportions with peat and ,sphagnum-moss1 or ,osmunda1 or ,polypodium fibre1 is necessary for ,cypripediums1 the proportion of loam being greatest for the stronger-growing plants2 certain ,selenipediums and ,cypripediums require quite one-half of that ingredient4 ,some good growers use loam fibre with a sprinkling of leaves and broken crocks entirely for ,cypripedium insigne and others of the green-leafed class1 and also for ,calanthes1 ,phaius1 ,zygopetalums1 and other plants4 ,in preparing the peat for use in potting1 the bracken rhizomes should be set aside to place as a layer over the crocks1 with a little ,sphagnum-moss4 ,bracken rhizomes have been used with advantage instead of crocks to form drainage for ,odontoglossums1 and some growers like it so much for that purpose that the horticultural sundriesmen supply it sterilised in bags4 ,the methods of potting and choice of material vary with different growers1 each pursuing in some matters different methods to those observed by others4 ,it is desirable that an ,orchid grower should endeavour to find out the best methods for his own circumstances and1 if the results are satisfactory1 that he should adhere to them1 for there is no more prolific cause of failure than in continually trying experiments recommended by others4 ,the operation of potting or basketing ,orchids is very simple1 and can be readily learned by observation4 ,the aim should be to avoid injuring the living roots but to leave the plant firm in the pot4 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,,iii ,,dendrobium ,,wardianum 7,at the time the photograph was taken this plant bore #bfd flowers47 ,,baskets ,,and ,,pots ,it is more in accordance with nature to grow epiphytal ,orchids of convenient size in baskets to be suspended from the roof of the ,orchid house1 and in the case of subjects reputedly difficult to grow the best results are often attained in this way4 ,at the same time1 this is due as much to the plants being placed near to the glass of the roof1 as to the fact that the air has better access to the roots than when the plants are in pots4 ,hence it is that for suspending plants of small and medium growth1 ,orchid pans made in the same way as the flower-pot are found to be a convenient substitute for baskets1 as they are not so liable to decay as wood-baskets4 ,stanhopeas1 ,lueddemannias1 ,acinetas1 and some other ,orchids which produce their flower spikes directly from the base of the growth1 must be grown in baskets to admit of the proper production of their flowers1 which1 if grown in pots1 are sent down into the compost and lost4 ,gongoras1 ,cirrhaeas1 and similar genera1 which produce slender spikes of flowers of drooping habit1 are also best in baskets1 as they produce their flowers much more freely when the plants are suspended4 ,the ,orchid pan1 for suspending1 is also equally good for ,masdevallias of the ,chimaera section1 a large number of ,bulbophyllums and ,cirrhopetalums1 and generally for plants of small stature which would be too far away from the glass if placed on the stage4 ,for the bulk of the collection the grower has to use the ordinary flower-pots1 which are still unsurpassed for general purposes4 ,the elaborately designed pots1 perforated with holes or slits1 which were used for ,orchids years ago1 are not necessary1 for there is no defect in the ordinary flower-pot which cannot be overcome by the careful and skilful practitioner4 ,rafts and cylinders of teak-wood made in the same manner as baskets are useful for some species1 but it has to be remembered that plants on rafts are liable to suffer from lack of sufficient moisture-holding material around them4 ,broughtonia sanguinea1 however1 is never so happy as when grown on a horizontally suspended raft without the least potting material4 ,the great trouble with suspended ,orchids1 and one which precludes the cultivator employing this culture for so many plants as he could wish1 is the drip they cause to the plants on the stages4 ,no ,orchid should have another plant suspended above it2 if it is not possible to avoid this1 the relative positions of the suspended plants should be changed as often as possible2 water should only be given them by dipping the plants1 and they should be allowed to drain thoroughly before being again suspended4 ,as many of the suspended plants as possible should be arranged on each side of the path1 and in other situations where there are no plants immediately under them4 ,narrow rafts #d inches wide and #a foot or so in height are suitable for ,angraecum infundibulare1 ,a4 imbricatum1 and other scandent ,angraecums of similar growth4 ,these should be fastened to the rafts with some good ,sphagnum-moss between the plant and the raft on the lower half1 the base of the plant and the raft being afterwards fastened in a flower-pot with ,sphagnum-moss1 the raft leaning at a slight angle4 ,sphagnum-moss can be added on the upper part as the plant grows1 and1 when sufficiently rooted up the stem1 it can be severed half-way up when the base will produce new growths4 ,,staking ,,or ,,fixing ,,orchids ,some years ago1 when large specimens were favoured1 it used to be the practice to stake or stick the plants1 as it was called1 some of them exhibiting almost as many sticks as pseudo-bulbs4 ,the sticks rapidly decayed1 often leaving the stumps to harbour fungus and cause injury to the plants4 ,the compact specimens of the present day1 when properly grown1 require no support from sticks4 ,in respect to specimens of larger growth1 such as ,aerides of tall habit1 ,laelias of the ,l4 purpurata class1 and ,dendrobiums1 when they require sticking at all1 they may be securely supported by one stick in the centre1 to which one of the strongest growths should be fastened1 any others requiring support being looped to the centre stick4 ,the fewer sticks used the better4 ,dwarf plants with creeping rhizomes between the pseudo-bulbs used often to be secured when repotted by small wire pegs1 and the custom is not yet quite obsolete4 ,metal1 especially galvanised iron wire1 which is most commonly used1 is very injurious to any portion of an ,orchid which is allowed to come in contact with it4 ,such pegs are unnecessary1 for the plants can be fixed with the potting material1 and later on the new roots will effectually secure them4 ,in fastening ,orchids on rafts or blocks1 fine copper wire should be used1 and all the care possible taken to prevent it resting on the rhizomes or stems1 a small piece of peat or ,sphagnum-moss being placed beneath the wire where it crosses the plant4 ,where ,orchids such as ,phalaenopsis are grown in baskets or hanging pans1 the leaves should not be allowed to touch the wire suspenders1 or injury will result4 ,where leaves too closely approach the wire suspenders during their growth1 the wire should be bent to avoid contact1 or have a small shred of cotton-wool or other material bound round it at the point of contact1 if the leaf cannot be drawn aside4 ,for staking ,orchids1 bamboo canes are preferable to common deal-wood sticks4 ,,labelling ,,the ,,plants ,it adds much to the interest of a collection of ,orchids1 either small or large1 if a proper system of recording the plants is arranged for by means of a stock-book1 in which the name of each plant is entered as it is acquired1 together with the source from which it was obtained1 and any other particulars that may be required when the plant flowers4 ,this entry need only be brief1 and generally one1 or at most two lines will suffice for each plant4 ,if it is intended to keep the plants under numbers1 the left-hand margin should bear consecutive numbers from one onward1 but if it is desired to have the names on each plant1 the names in the stock-book should be arranged in an alphabetical manner4 ,in some collections where numbering is practised the number is written across the top of the label1 and the name written lengthwise when desired4 ,the common deal label is not suitable1 because the base soon decays in ,orchid houses1 causing danger from fungal growth1 and rendering the identification of the plant after the label has perished1 or fallen away1 very uncertain4 ,the lead number for clipping the rim of the pot1 or attaching to the wires of the basket or suspending pan1 is less objectionable1 but they are only convenient where numbers are alone used4 ,zinc labels and various other contrivances have been tried1 but the best and safest label1 either for numbers or names1 or both1 is the white celluloid label1 obtainable in all sizes1 similar to the ordinary wooden plant label1 and in the ticket form for attaching to the baskets by means of fine wire4 ,this kind of label does not decay as the wood labels1 and it may be cleaned and used again as long as it remains in a perfect condition4 ,let all labels be made as small as possible consistent with their being firmly fixed1 as it detracts much from the appearance of a house of plants if the labels are too much in evidence4 ,care must be taken during repotting that the labels removed from the plants should each be returned to its proper specimen4 ,much trouble may be caused by mixing the labels4 ,,chapter ,,vi ,,removing ,,useless ,,leaves ,,and ,,bulbs ,an unsightly appearance is given to many collections of ,orchids by the presence on some of the plants of a number of damaged or yellow leaves4 ,these are often supposed to be the result of bad cultivation1 and1 in some cases1 rightly so4 ,but in all collections of ,orchids the old leaves1 even of the evergreen species1 do not pass off naturally as they do in their native habitats1 where they have the natural seasons with their climatic changes to cause the leaves to fall naturally4 ,when cultivated under glass1 the species which are known as evergreen kinds retain their old leaves long after they would have passed away in their native wilds2 and not only that1 but they decline and become unsightly for years under glass1 instead of passing away in a few months4 ,consequently many ,orchids in collections often carry at least twice as many leaves as they ought to do1 and the oldest are the most unsightly4 ,a ready example of this kind is given by most collections of ,masdevallias4 ,the leaves are usually densely packed1 many of the older ones shabby1 and not only unsightly in themselves1 but interfering with the full development of the new growths4 ,masdevallias have no developed pseudo-bulbs1 but a joint will be seen where the leaf-blades join the basal stems2 all damaged leaves should be cut off just above that joint1 and it will be found that some of the plants will be benefited1 both in appearance and condition1 by having from one-third to one-half the number of their old and damaged leaves removed4 ,the same remarks apply to all ,orchids of similar growth1 such as ,pleurothallis and ,octomerias1 and indeed to the species generally1 for damaged or decaying leaves can be of no assistance in the development of the plant1 unless in exceptional cases where the grower must use his own discretion4 ,,useless ,,pseudo-,,bulbs ,if an imported ,orchid such as a ,cattleya or ,laelia1 which has been cultivated under glass for several years and has many pseudo-bulbs1 be turned out of the pot and the roots freed from the potting material1 it will be seen that the new roots which nourish the plant are confined to the freshest pseudo-bulbs1 and that the roots beneath the older pseudo-bulbs are in such a condition that they are useless in the economy of the plant4 ,this fact goes to show that the old pseudo-bulbs are being supported by the newer growths1 and1 that they are seriously impeding the full development of the flower-producing part of the specimen4 ,in such cases it is a common thing to see large specimens collapse and die off1 the decay being traceable to the old bulbs in the centre of the plant4 ,it is1 therefore1 better to remove old pseudo-bulbs behind the last three or four leading ones1 and1 if it is desired to retain all leading portions of a large mass in one pot or pan to form a specimen1 they should be potted together1 when it will be found that1 given reasonable treatment1 they will make better specimens than if left in a mass4 ,in the case of varieties that need to be propagated1 the pieces removed should be placed in comparatively small ,orchid pans or baskets1 properly labelled1 and in due time useful and often valuable specimens may be secured from material which would only have been detrimental to the parent plant4 ,the same kind of treatment will be found equally beneficial in the case of garden hybrids which have been cultivated long enough to have a number of back bulbs4 ,in such cases the plants frequently degenerate after the first two or three years1 until they produce inferior flowers1 but the removal of the back pseudo-bulbs results in giving the flowering growths the full benefit of the root action1 and consequently the plants again produce flowers of good quality4 ,potting time is a very convenient season to give special attention to the removal of useless leaves and pseudo-bulbs1 as the plants can be readily handled when they are out of the pots4 ,all useless parts removed should be taken out of the house and burnt4 ,it is a common practice to throw the leaves under the stage4 ,no rubbish of this1 or any other kind1 should be allowed in the ,orchid house1 as it forms a harbour for insects and is1 in other respects1 objectionable4 ,,chapter ,,vii ,,propagation ,,by ,,division ,it used to be thought a very delicate operation to divide an ,orchid1 or to remove any portion of it for the purpose of obtaining another specimen1 and1 when the operation was carried out1 it was thought to be at the risk of the plant and its offset4 ,in the case of badly grown plants1 or where the houses are unsuitable for growing ,orchids successfully1 there may still be considerable risk in the process2 but under ordinary conditions1 and where the plants have proper accommodation1 there is no risk whatever2 it may be said that plants are never in better health than when they are divided at reasonable intervals4 ,if we consider the case of ,cypripedium insigne ,sanderae1 some of the white ,cattleyas1 and many other ,orchids which were imported only as single specimens originally but which are now well represented in gardens1 the advantage of dividing the plants is readily seen4 ,pseudo-bulbous ,orchids with progressive rhizomes1 such as ,cattleyas1 ,laelias1 ,oncidiums1 and ,odontoglossums1 should be divided by severing the rhizomes1 retaining two or more pseudo-bulbs together4 ,this operation can be done at any season of the year1 but it is most convenient to do it at potting time1 and1 for preference1 just before the commencement of the natural growing season of the plant4 ,small pieces should be placed in small ,orchid pans or baskets1 but larger ones may be potted at once and placed on the stage with the other plants4 ,dendrobiums may also be propagated by dividing the plants1 but a large section of the genus may also be propagated by cuttings of the pseudo-bulbs4 ,this method is specially useful for increasing a rare and fine variety of ,dendrobium nobile or others of the section1 as a good supply of plants can quickly be obtained in this way4 ,the method is to cut the pseudo-bulbs into lengths of two or three inches and to place them in small ,orchid pans1 six or eight in a pan1 suspending the pan in a warm1 moist1 house4 ,the ,thunia section of ,phaius1 ,epidendrum radicans1 and some other ,epidendrums and ,orchids of similar growth may be multiplied in this manner4 ,further remarks on propagation will be found under the names of the genera enumerated4 ,,chapter ,,viii ,,watering ,,epiphytal ,,orchids ,success or failure with any class of ,orchids depends largely on the exercise of discretion in watering4 ,while it may be said that more specimens are lost by having too little water1 especially among the smaller-growing species1 than by over-watering1 at the same time much mischief is caused by a system of giving a little watering frequently all the year round1 and without any regard to the period of growth or rest through which the plants are passing4 ,such treatment does not provide for strong growth during the growing season1 or adequate rest after the growths are finished2 consequently the plants decline in health and the flowers are not satisfactory4 ,rain-water is the only suitable water for ,orchids1 and the growers who can command a supply of it all the year round possess a great advantage over those who have to use water from any other source4 ,during the period of growth and root action1 too much water at the root cannot easily be given1 provided the material in which the plants are potted is sufficiently porous and the pots or ,orchid pans have a sufficient drainage4 ,the rule should be to water thoroughly when watering at all1 making sure that the whole of the potting material is moistened well1 then not to give more water to that plant until the effect of the watering is seen to be passing1 the plant being still moist but approaching dryness1 when the thorough watering should be repeated4 ,nothing is more misleading than to pour a little water each day on the surface of the material in which the plant is potted4 ,this is often considered to be careful watering1 but it results in a large number of the plants never getting thoroughly moist at the root1 while others in a retentive compost1 or where the drainage is defective1 become soddened4 ,such cases may arise occasionally under any conditions1 and1 where a thoroughly dry plant is found at a season when it should be moist1 it is better to plunge the pot or basket in water until it is perfectly soaked4 ,in the case of a plant which is too wet with stagnant moisture1 it should either be repotted after the wet potting material has been removed1 or placed on a shelf to remain without water until it is again in a proper condition to receive it4 ,in all cases a spouted watering-pot should be used4 ,the rose watering-pot and syringe are necessary things in the ,orchid house1 but the use of them should be rigidly restricted to some definite work1 such as watering ,orchids for the first time after repotting1 sprinkling the floors1 staging1 and brick walls1 and other work which cannot cause mischief4 ,it used to be a common practice to water ,orchids overhead with a rose watering-pot1 but the plants so watered made but few roots1 and the foliage was generally unsightly1 owing to deposits from the water4 ,it is therefore best to make a rule against watering overhead in a general way4 ,the syringe may be used among ,dendrobiums and some other warm-house ,orchids during the height of the growing season2 but it would be safer to arrange for such work to be done by means of a sprayer and at shorter intervals4 ,the sprayer is a very useful and beneficial contrivance1 and1 in the hands of a careful operator using clean rain-water1 it affords a valuable aid in maintaining a healthily humid condition in the atmosphere of all the ,orchid houses1 especially during the heat of the summer4 ,equal in importance to the giving of sufficient water during the growing season is the observance of the dry1 resting season1 which1 in a varying degree1 is required by all ,orchids1 whether they come from hot or cold habitats1 and whether they are epiphytal or terrestrial species4 ,,watering ,,terrestrial ,,orchids ,these1 like the epiphytal ,orchids1 may be divided into two main classes1 namely1 those which lose their leaves annually1 and those which are more or less evergreen4 ,some of the genera contain both of these classes1 and notably the ,calanthes4 ,in ,c4 vestita1 ,c4 ,regnieri1 ,c4 rosea1 and their varieties and hybrids the leaves turn yellow after the growths are fully made up1 a sign which gives a good indication as to the necessity for withholding water for a lengthened period2 while ,calanthe veratrifolia and others of the class retain the last-made foliage green all the year round1 the loss of foliage being in the old leaves1 which should be removed at the first sign of decay4 ,with these latter may be classed the ,phaius1 ,zygopetalums1 ,cymbidiums1 ,cypripediums1 and many others of evergreen habit1 which require much care to be exercised in the matter of withholding water during the resting season1 otherwise the plants will decline in vigour4 ,after the growths are finished1 most of these plants are benefited by removal to a cooler and more freely ventilated house for a few weeks1 during which time the supply of water should be restricted1 but they should never be allowed to suffer by being thoroughly dried4 ,for ,zygopetalums and other ,orchids which it is customary to place in a rather drier atmosphere during the time they are in flower1 such an interval would be sufficient rest4 ,,chapter ,,ix ,,manures ,,for ,,orchids ,it should be distinctly understood that1 in the case of true epiphytes1 there is no need for manures1 and1 that artificial chemical manures are almost certain to bring about disastrous results1 the final collapse being in proportion to the potency of the stimulant used and the recklessness of the grower4 ,where rain-water can be obtained and stored for use throughout the season1 it is safest and most satisfactory to rely on this alone1 except for some terrestrial ,orchids4 ,the chief difficulty in recommending the use of manures for any class of plants1 ,orchids especially1 is in the fact that1 once the practice is commenced1 even those cultivators who begin cautiously frequently lose discretion in the course of time and ruin their plants by excessive applications4 ,it is for this reason that the growers of plants for market purposes1 whose secret of success almost entirely depends on the use of manures1 are careful to give out the supplies to the men who have to use them1 or1 with the very best intentions1 they would often destroy a crop4 ,indeed1 it is not uncommon for foremen1 or men in charge of departments in large nurseries devoted to growing plants for market1 to resort to unfair means to get extra supplies of manure for their plants1 and frequently with bad results4 ,there is another curious feature about the use of manures in market-plant gardens1 namely1 that all concerned observe the greatest secrecy in the matter1 and rarely admit that they use anything but water--that being the common expression4 ,the same secrecy is observed by the ,orchid expert in most cases4 ,another thing is that there is no common formula accepted by all practitioners4 ,each seems to have his own opinions as to materials1 quality1 and strength of the stimulants used4 ,one thing is certain1 that even where artificial manures are used1 the time of application and its discontinuance has more to do with success or failure than the nature of the manure itself4 ,even in cases where the administration of a mild stimulant is of use during the period of active growth and free rooting1 if the manure is not discontinued after growth is completed much mischief is done4 ,it is not necessary to go into the relative merits of chemical manures1 which are not recommended for use1 but it may be stated that some growers do use small quantities with apparently good results1 restricting the use of the manure to the active growing season and during the time the flower-spikes are forming4 ,aerides1 ,saccolabiums1 and ,vandas seem to be exceptions1 as they represent the highest development of the epiphyte4 ,odontoglossums and some similar ,orchids have been treated to a very small quantity of ,peruvian guano sprinkled in the water used for watering them in spring while the flowers were forming1 and without a bad effect2 but the quantity used was very small1 and the water was not allowed to touch the leaves or pseudo-bulbs4 ,one grower on the ,continent was in the habit of sprinkling a handful of nitrate of soda in the gutter of the house1 especially before1 or during heavy rain1 in order that a little solution of it might be carried into the rain-water tanks in the ,orchid house4 ,his plants throve well1 and this shows that even with epiphytal ,orchids there is a field open for experiment2 but the operator must not lose sight of the fact that he is playing with edged tools4 ,we will now state what has been proved to be beneficial when carefully carried out4 ,those who grow batches of the showy ,dendrobiums such as ,d4 nobile1 ,d4 ,wardianum1 ,d4 ,phalaenopsis1 and others of the class1 and who1 at the growing season1 place them in a warm1 moist house1 suspended from the roof for preference1 frequently give them weak doses of liquid manure during the season of growth1 and the plants make very fine growth4 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,,iv ,,cattleya ,,trianae ,,var4 ,,hydra 7,the plant bore #hh flowers47 ,the liquid from farm-yard manure1 or from a stable1 should be avoided1 as its strength cannot be known2 sometimes it is very weak1 and at others fatally strong4 ,a large tub with liquid manure made of cow-dung1 and in which a coarse bag of soot has been sunk1 is a safe manure for any plant1 and if properly diluted can do no harm to plants requiring such a stimulant4 ,terrestrial ,orchids such as ,calanthes and ,phaius can scarcely be grown to their best without a liberal application of this1 or some other manure known to the operator to be safe1 during their season of growth4 ,cymbidiums1 ,zygopetalums1 ,peristerias1 and other strong-growing ,orchids have also been treated to weak liquid manure from the commencement of growth until the flowers expanded1 with advantage so far as evidence is available4 ,an occasional watering of liquid manure1 or slight sprinkling of guano1 may be given beneath the staging in the evenings during the growing season4 ,the structure of the roots of ,orchids does not favour the idea that they are suited for taking up stimulating liquid in the manner common to fibrous-rooted plants4 ,on the general question of the use of stimulants in ,orchid culture many clever men have carried out experiments4 ,the late ,dr4 ,a4 ,h4 ,smee went into the question1 basing his experiments on the chemical constituents of the plants themselves1 which is not an infallible guide4 ,the late ,norman ,c4 ,cookson carefully studied the subject1 and he recommended for experiment the following formula3-- ,potassium nitrate 7saltpetre71 #c oz4 ,ammonium phosphate1 #b oz4 ,dissolve in a three-gallon jar of soft water1 and when watering growing ,orchids1 or those perfecting their flowers1 add one ounce of the solution to each gallon of water4 ,again it must be urged that those experimenting with manures must do so only on growing plants1 and when growth is completed it must be stopped4 ,no ,orchid grower should undertake such experiments without first obtaining his employer's concurrence4 ,,chapter ,x ,,resting ,,orchids ,whilst we may definitely say that all ,orchids require a resting season in some degree1 the cultivator must be careful to arrange the resting season1 in the matter of its duration and other particulars1 in accordance with the nature of the plant1 for in some classes of ,orchids it is very easy to do much mischief by subjecting them to a too prolonged and rigorous resting time4 ,seedling ,orchids1 as a rule1 require little or no resting season until after their first flowering1 and ,cattleyas1 ,laeliocattleyas1 and other evergreen hybrids require a rather shorter period of rest than deciduous species4 ,bulbophyllums1 ,cirrhopetalums1 and many other small-growing ,orchids are frequently killed by attempting to give them a dry resting season1 although there is a section which lose their leaves in winter like the deciduous ,dendrobiums1 and these are benefited by being dried off in a cooler house when the leaves fall1 keeping them dry until growth starts again1 in the same manner as ,dendrobium nobile1 ,d4 ,wardianum1 ,d4 crassinode1 and other deciduous ,dendrobiums4 ,the evergreen ,dendrobiums of the ,d4 densiflorum and ,d4 ,farmeri class require a short rest in a lower temperature1 and should be watered a little occasionally1 especially if they show a tendency to shrivel1 which is not a good thing for any ,orchid4 ,aerides1 ,vandas1 and ,saccolabiums require a lower temperature in winter1 and less water4 ,many of these begin to grow in ,march2 after that season they require heat and moisture more liberally4 ,as a rule1 the plants themselves give the best indication when the resting season has arrived1 and1 in the case of those which lose their leaves1 they show how much rest is necessary4 ,the starting of the new growth indicates when growing conditions should be restored4 ,in respect to the very small-growing species1 and especially evergreen kinds1 it is much better to ignore the resting season rather than to lower the vitality of the plants by a severe drying off4 ,,chapter ,,xi ,,specially ,,rare ,,and ,,valuable ,,plants ,while every plant in the collection should be given the best possible care and attention1 it is advisable to keep the more rare and valuable specimens immediately under the eye of the grower4 ,it is often the case that albinos1 rare varieties1 and new species are allowed to get mixed up in the general collection1 and a plant that could not be replaced may be hidden by the commoner things which are not of so much consequence4 ,in the case of the best spotted varieties of ,odontoglossum crispum1 albino ,cattleyas1 and other exceptionally rare things1 it is a good plan to arrange a batch of them together in the most suitable part of the house1 or to place each on an inverted flower-pot at intervals along the staging1 thus bringing them into prominence and facilitating the inspection of each at all times4 ,some use wire plant stands instead of inverted pots1 but the moisture-holding flower-pots are preferable1 if they are inspected occasionally to see that they are not harbouring insects4 ,albinos and fine varieties of ,cattleyas and ,laelias could be grown in suspended ,orchid pans or baskets1 to take them out of the general collection1 and so grown they would make better progress than if placed on the stages4 ,in the case of any plant not making satisfactory growth it is often beneficial to place it on an inverted pot to bring it more prominently under notice4 ,,chapter ,,xii ,,diseases ,,and ,,insect ,,pests ,there is very much in the old-time advice1 ,grow your plants clean1 for a very large proportion of ,orchid diseases and insect pests are due to errors in cultivation1 more especially in the regulation of the temperature and the ventilation4 ,insanitary houses lower the vitality of the plants1 and vegetation1 like human beings1 is a prey to disease when kept in unhealthy conditions4 ,spot1 or ,orchid disease1 exhibits itself in various forms4 ,it is caused1 as scientists say1 by different micro-organisms1 but in effect it is practically the same whether in the form known as ,spot1 often seen in ,phalaenopsis1 ,aerides1 and ,vandas1 or in the decayed and blackened pseudo-bulbs of ,cattleyas1 especially ,c4 ,warscewiczii 7gigas71 which from an apparently healthy plant may develop a diseased condition of the pseudo-bulbs1 and become useless in a few days4 ,in all such diseases it will be seen that the tissues have collapsed1 the result being brown or blackish spots on leaves or bulbs4 ,imperfect nutrition from lack of healthy roots is a frequent cause of this mischief1 for ,aerides and ,vandas which have been affected with ,spot recover in the new growth1 for a time at least1 if a satisfactory root action can be set up4 ,propagation1 by freeing the recently made parts of the plants from the old and worn-out back portions1 which are not furnished with the roots necessary to support themselves is one of the best means of preventing ,orchid diseases1 and efforts should be made to keep the plants vigorous and1 therefore1 capable of resisting attacks by insect pests4 ,plants are also benefited greatly by having their position in the houses changed1 and that is one of the great advantages of the periodical inspection1 for during this process the relative positions of the plants are altered4 ,it should be said that ,cattleyas and other common ,orchids badly affected by disease had better be burnt1 for it is cheaper to buy a healthy young plant than to waste time in trying to bring the unsightly and diseased specimens back to health4 ,the ,cattleya ,fly 7,isosoma orchidearum71 first imported probably with ,cattleya ,dowiana1 and frequently with other ,cattleyas since1 affects the new growths1 the grubs causing them to swell and rendering the growth useless4 ,the same species1 or one closely allied1 also attacks the young roots of ,cattleyas1 ,laelias1 and their hybrids1 causing unsightly galls on the points of the roots4 ,fumigation1 with some safe preparation to destroy the fly1 should be carried out1 and every young growth and root-point as soon as they are seen to be affected should be cut off and burnt4 ,by adopting these remedies it is possible to get rid of the pest4 ,in purchasing freshly imported plants1 care should be taken to reject those which show signs of having been affected by the fly4 ,thrips1 ,red ,spider1 and ,aphides occasionally appear in every collection1 and the remedy is fumigation and sponging with an insecticide1 which some growers prepare for themselves1 either by pouring boiling water over coarse tobacco tied up in a cloth and adding a little soft soap1 or by making an infusion of quassia chips4 ,but excellent insecticides can be purchased already prepared1 which are guaranteed to be safe and effective1 and being of uniform strength1 they may be used with confidence if the instructions given with the preparations are observed strictly4 ,avoid using paraffin and emulsions of paraffin1 for it is dangerous1 not only to the plants sponged with it1 but to all the plants in the house1 for it affects the atmosphere4 ,,scale ,,insects ,these appear much less in collections now than formerly1 because the old large specimens are replaced by young and vigorous plants4 ,thirty or forty years ago1 it was a usual thing to spend several days every year scraping the brown scales from tall plants of ,aerides odoratum1 ,vanda tricolor1 and other specimen ,orchids1 and what was called cleaning was going on all the year round4 ,now there is much less need of such work1 although scale will appear in its various species on one section of plants or another4 ,in the periodical inspections1 all plants attacked by it should have the insects removed by a piece of stick blunted at the edge and point1 sponging the leaves afterwards with some diluted insecticide4 ,syringing with an insecticide1 or dipping the plants in the liquid1 should be avoided1 for the quantity applied is likely to saturate the material in which the plants are potted and to run into the centres of the young growths and cause injury4 ,by means of a sponge1 it may be applied lightly or heavily1 but the operator has command in each case over what he is doing4 ,,mealy ,,bug ,fortunately this pest is rare in ,orchid houses1 but when it appears it is easily destroyed in the same manner as scale4 ,,cockroaches ,the first of these insects to be noticed should be the signal for the laying of poison4 ,search should be made for the breeding quarters1 which are often in the stoke-hole1 or in some hot1 dry corner of the house4 ,various preparations are recommended1 but the best still seems to be the old phosphor paste1 which should be placed on pieces of paper in the haunts of the insects in the evening1 and removed the next morning1 a fresh supply being put down every two or three days so long as one of the insects remains4 ,,slugs1 ,,snails1 ,,and ,,woodlice ,to combat these is more a question of diligence than anything else4 ,the old remedies to attract them1 such as lettuce leaves1 or hollowed halves of potatoes1 are still effective1 and a walk round the houses with a light at night never goes unrewarded4 ,,chapter ,,xiii ,,periodical ,,inspection ,whenever the time is to be spared1 it is a good plan to overhaul one or other of the sections of ,orchids thoroughly1 and to have a more general inspection as soon as possible after the winter has passed1 and at the end of the summer1 this latter inspection being the more important4 ,cleanliness in everything around ,orchids is one of the most important aids to successful culture1 and1 during the periodical inspections1 plants which are not clean should be cleansed1 their pots where it is required washed1 and the staging and any part of the house requiring it thoroughly cleansed before the plants are rearranged4 ,during the course of the work certain plants which would be benefited by being repotted1 or divided1 will be found1 and these should be given attention4 ,the water in the tub in which the green deposit on the pots has been removed by scrubbing1 and as much of the other water used in cleansing as can be dealt with1 should be poured down a drain outside the ,orchid house4 ,if thrown on the floor of the house1 it leaves an unpleasant odour1 which is harmful and lasts a long time4 ,during the inspection at the end of the summer the staging should be repaired where necessary1 the heating apparatus carefully overhauled and defects made good1 in order to minimise the risk of having to do the work during the cold weather4 ,where it is deemed advisable to black the hot-water piping1 use only lamp-black and oil4 ,paint gives off injurious gases for a considerable time1 and where persons have been incautious enough to use gas-tar the most lamentable results have followed1 the mischief lasting for years4 ,these periodical inspections and rearrangement of the plants are also useful in preventing the same plants occupying the same positions for too long a time4 ,a change of position in the house is beneficial1 even where the plants are not crowded2 but in collections where the plants are closely arranged1 to change their positions frequently1 goes far to mitigate the evil arising from want of space4 ,in preparing for a thorough inspection of the plants in a house1 it is desirable to remove a number of the plants to another house to make room to examine the rest without risk of breakage1 the plants removed at the commencement being returned to fill the space remaining after the work has been completed4 ,the ,orchid grower is always supposed to have the plants under his direct inspection and to treat them with individual care1 but these occasional reviews often reveal defects in some of the specimens which would otherwise have escaped for some considerable time4 ,,chapter ,,xiv ,,orchids ,,for ,,the ,,conservatory ,there are many dwelling-houses of moderate pretensions1 especially in towns and suburban districts1 in which the sole accommodation for plant-growing consists of the conservatory adjoining the house1 and this is1 in most cases1 heated by one or other of the simple means at command for the purpose4 ,the contents of such structures are usually unsatisfactory1 the ,pelargoniums1 ,fuchsias1 and other soft-wooded plants which are arranged with some of the hardier ,palms and ,ferns being drawn into spindly growth1 which results in a miserable supply of flowers for a short season1 and afterwards in decaying foliage1 which is not ornamental4 ,quite a new interest would open up to the owners of such places were they to turn their attention to acquiring from time to time a few of the ,orchids which are now to be procured as cheaply as the less suitable plants1 such as ,pelargoniums4 ,already some successes have been recorded in this direction4 ,let us consider the different classes of conservatories1 and the species most likely to succeed in them4 ,to take first the commonest kind of small conservatory attached to villa gardens4 ,these are unheated structures except in the winter months1 when the temperature cannot be kept from getting below #de deg4 ,fahr4 without the aid of one of the oil-stove heating apparatus1 or heat turned on from the pipe connected with the kitchen range1 where arrangements for doing so have been provided4 ,these means of applying artificial heat should be used as little as possible1 and only to prevent the temperature falling below #de deg4 ,fahr41 for in confined spaces and with such means of heating1 the atmosphere is better for the plants without the use of artificial heat1 whenever the house can be kept from getting too cold without it4 ,in such conservatories1 many of the ,odontoglossums1 ,masdevallias1 ,oncidium varicosum1 ,o4 crispum1 ,o4 praetextum1 ,o4 ,gardneri1 the pretty scarlet ,sophronitis grandiflora1 ,epidendrum vitellinum1 ,lycaste ,skinneri1 ,cypripedium insigne1 ,disa grandiflora1 and a number of other pretty and inexpensive species can be grown satisfactorily1 especially if the ,oncidiums1 ,sophronitis1 ,odontoglossum ,rossii majus1 and other of the smaller species be placed in baskets for suspending1 a means of cultivation which suits them best1 and adds to their decorative effect4 ,the next step is the larger conservatory adjoining many town and suburban dwellings4 ,these are heated by a small boiler with hot-water pipes1 a means1 it should be said1 which is the only satisfactory method of heating glass structures4 ,to the species indicated for the smaller and less safely heated structures may be added a very wide range of subjects of great beauty4 ,in such a structure the ,palms supplying decorative foliage may be much restricted1 or entirely dispensed with1 as ,cymbidium ,lowianum1 ,c4 giganteum1 ,c4 ,tracyanum1 and any others of the section having evergreen leaves of much grace1 are decorative plants at all seasons1 and possess the further advantage of being furnished with fine spikes of flowers for several months in the year4 ,these large and strong-growing species are specially adapted for the conservatory1 an ,orchid house being unnecessary for them4 ,to the heated conservatory also may now be handed over the showier species and hybrids of the ,south ,american ,cypripediums 7,selenipediums71 which1 probably because of their very free-growing nature rendering them too large for the ,orchid house1 and the ready manner in which they may be increased1 have caused them to be slighted lately by growers of collections of ,orchids4 ,the air of the conservatory1 rather drier than that of the ,orchid house1 suits these plants admirably4 ,their bright evergreen foliage and tall sprays of white and rose1 or greenish flowers tinged with purple1 which often by succession keep the specimens in bloom for six months in the year1 render them beautiful and interesting subjects for the conservatory4 ,the strongest and best kinds to be acquired are ,selenipedium longifolium1 ,s4 ,sedenii1 ,s4 cardinale1 ,s4 calurum1 ,s4 grande1 ,s4 ,schroederae1 and ,s4 albo-purpureum4 ,cypriperium ,charlesworthii1 ,c4 ,spicerianum1 and ,c4 ,leeanum should also be added4 ,the larger1 heated conservatories might well be furnished with the ,orchids recommended rather than the plants generally used for decorating them1 for these have to be changed frequently4 ,the ,orchids1 if carefully tended1 will grow permanently in the conservatory and be a source of never-failing interest4 ,in these large conservatories1 ,stanhopeas in baskets for suspending are ornamental plants1 and ,sobralias on the floor or central bed would prove satisfactory4 ,to those enumerated many more might be added1 but in all cases it is best to get only evergreen kinds1 which may be grown continuously in the same house4 ,,chapter ,,xv ,,orchids ,,as ,,cut ,,flowers ,orchids having flowers with persistent perianths1 in which the segments do not drop as in many other flowers1 are of the highest value for cut flowers1 as some or other of them can be obtained in every month in the year4 ,large quantities of the large-flowered ,cattleyas1 especially ,c4 labiata1 of ,c4 ,harrisoniana and its near ally ,c4 ,loddigesii1 ,odontoglossum crispum1 ,o4 ,pescatorei1 ,dendrobiums1 and other showy ,orchids are grown for cut flowers in nurseries where ,orchids are not required for other than market purposes4 ,in many private gardens1 also1 the same kinds of ,orchids are grown for decorative purposes1 even without a desire to grow a general collection4 ,those who arrange for a general collection of ,orchids as their primary object often cut the flowers for their own use1 or to give to their friends1 and the following remarks may be useful to all classes of growers4 ,a large proportion of the flowers of ,orchids used for decorative purposes are in a great degree wasted by being cut in an immature state soon after the buds have expanded4 ,such flowers last but a very short time1 and1 if used for decoration by night1 are only presentable for one evening4 ,orchid flowers should not be cut until they are fully mature and their tissues hardened4 ,they last longer even if they are cut after they are past their best1 than they do if cut too soon after expanding4 ,when mature1 the flowers require less support from moisture passing up the stem than most flowers1 but if cut in an undeveloped state sufficient moisture cannot be obtained through the stems1 even if well supplied with water1 to continue the development1 and the petals droop and the flowers soon wither4 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,v ,,brasso-,,cattleya ,,digbyano-,,mossiae ,,westonbirt ,,variety 7,raised from a cross between ,brassavola ,digbyana and ,cattleya ,mossiae47 ,when ,orchid flowers are to be used for decorative purposes1 no matter in what stage of development they may be1 it adds greatly to their durability if they are placed head downward1 thoroughly immersed in clean water 7rain-water for preference71 and kept so immersed until an hour or so before they are set up1 gently shaking the water from them1 and placing them on a cloth or some dry1 cool surface until wanted4 ,treated in this way1 ,orchid flowers will last for weeks instead of days4 ,the method should be to take them out of the dining-room or other place where they have been used after the guests have departed each evening4 ,have ready a large earthenware pan filled with water1 and in it immerse the ,orchid flowers1 leaving them immersed until shortly before they are required to be set up again next day1 repeating the same treatment every night4 ,managed in this way1 sprays of ,odontoglossums and other ,orchids often last for weeks1 and look better than freshly cut immature flowers do even on the first day4 ,flowers received by post should always be treated to the bath for some hours1 and1 during immersion1 any defects which are reparable will be made good and the duration of the flowers ensured1 especially if the immersion be repeated as before recommended4 ,in this way ,masdevallia1 ,sobralia1 and other fugacious flowers may be used for decorative purposes for two evenings at least1 but in the absence of immersion they would wither in a very short time4 ,it might also be said that the ,maidenhair ,fern1 also ,asparagus plumosus1 and other foliage used with the cut ,orchids are materially benefited by immersion1 the ,maidenhair ,fern especially2 it should always be kept immersed until required for use4 ,,chapter ,,xvi ,,importing ,,orchids ,many interesting ,orchids have been imported by amateurs who have friends or correspondents in the countries which the ,orchids inhabit1 and many more would have arrived alive if the persons who sent them possessed some knowledge of the best methods of collecting1 packing1 and forwarding the plants4 ,the want of this knowledge often results in the trouble the collector has taken being in vain1 and disappointment to the receiver who gets the dead plants and has to tell his correspondent the sad tale of failure4 ,orchids should be gathered and forwarded during their resting season1 and with a sufficient time between their being sent off and their natural growing season to allow of the period of their transit being made before their resting season expires4 ,this rule is often needlessly violated by those who are settled in the district from whence they are sending the ,orchids1 and who could easily wait until the resting season comes round4 ,for those who are travelling and have to take the ,orchids when they can and in whatever condition they may be1 however1 there is some excuse1 and by carefully forwarding the plants1 even although at the wrong season1 many may get them over alive4 ,residents in the tropics often grow a collection of ,orchids1 bringing to the gardens around their residences the plants collected in distant parts of their districts4 ,these growers have a notion that cultivated plants are the best to send their correspondents1 therefore1 although they could collect fresh plants1 they think it safer to send those in their own gardens4 ,these are the very worst plants to travel4 ,they are usually collected in high localities1 and their sojourn in a garden results in lowered vitality1 which explains why a large proportion die during the journey to this country4 ,freshly collected plants1 in whatever stage they may be1 are the best1 the ideal conditions being to take the plants at mid-resting season1 to have the case to receive them beneath the trees on which they are growing1 to pack them off at once to a shipping agent at the port of embarkation1 to catch a steamer previously timed1 and to consign the case or cases to a reliable shipping agent in ,england4 ,another cause of mortality in ,orchids during transit arises from the mistaken notion that the plants require to be prepared by drying before packing1 and this practice is continued so long and rigorously in many cases that the plants are half dead before they are despatched4 ,no such preparation is needed2 the plants should be packed at once after collecting1 and any moisture which may be in them will escape through the small holes in the case4 ,the parcels post is available from many parts of the tropics1 and from some places it is the only reliable means of getting ,orchids over in a reasonable time4 ,but it is only available for small lots1 and for these it forms the best means of forwarding4 ,unfortunately1 there are drawbacks even to these means1 for the parcels1 especially from some ports1 are frequently stowed in hot chambers on board the mail steamer1 the object being to keep the mails dry1 and plant-life is destroyed by the excessive heat4 ,epiphytal ,orchids with pseudo-bulbs1 such as ,cattleyas1 ,laelias1 and ,epidendrums1 if collected at or near the proper season1 require very little packing4 ,the cases being ready1 it is necessary to place a layer of plants at the bottom1 with their heads all facing one way4 ,the next layer is placed with the heads the reverse way1 and so on until the box is full of plants firmly pressed in1 but not sufficiently close to cause injury4 ,during the packing a few struts of wood should be placed across the inside and fastened by nails driven into their ends from the outside2 these will prevent the plants from forming a mass and rolling about when the boxes are moved4 ,a few small holes should be bored in the boxes to admit a little air4 ,leafy epiphytal ,orchids1 such as ,phalaenopsis1 ,aerides1 ,vandas1 and ,saccolabiums1 may be forwarded in the same way1 but with a sprinkling of fine paper cuttings1 layers of paper1 fine but not resinous shavings1 or dry moss between each row of plants4 ,in respect to species which do not possess pseudo-bulbs it is absolutely necessary that they be sent at the proper resting season1 if forwarded in bulk in boxes4 ,phalaenopsis for sending at any time are prepared by collectors in ,java and the ,philippines by establishing the plants on blocks4 ,they are almost the only temporarily cultivated ,orchids which often travel well when so managed1 and they are usually sent fastened round the sides and backs of ,wardian cases1 a method which is somewhat costly4 ,terrestrial ,orchids1 such as ,phaius1 ,calanthes1 and others with above-ground pseudo-bulbs1 if collected at the proper resting season1 travel well packed in cases of moderate size and with a little dry packing material placed between the rows4 ,the danger with these kinds is that the pseudo-bulbs1 being soft and containing much moisture1 are liable to decay1 and a few damaged plants may cause the loss of all contained in the box4 ,tuberous-rooted1 terrestrial ,orchids of the same nature as the ,british ,orchis1 and including the ,african ,disas1 and ,satyriums1 also the ,habenarias of different regions1 should be marked when in flower and lifted in the resting season1 the tubers being placed in small boxes with a sprinkling of nearly dry sandy peat or sand1 run in between the tubers4 ,if there are several different kinds to be forwarded1 all the small boxes containing them may be packed together in a larger box4 ,next to the trouble caused by loss in transit is that of having plants arrive without any means of identification4 ,the collector should be careful to write the name of every specimen on an imperishable label1 or1 better still1 send each under a number and forward a numbered list with the names corresponding to the numbers on each kind sent4 ,those who are collecting ,orchids should1 as often as possible1 dry specimens of the growth and flowers of each kind1 forwarding one set1 numbered similarly to the set retained1 to their correspondent1 or to some authority1 for identification4 ,a description or rough sketch of the plant should be given on the same sheet as the dried specimens1 stating such important particulars as colour of flowers1 altitude of habitat1 and exact locality4 ,,chapter ,,xvii ,,treatment ,,of ,,imported ,,orchids ,much depends on the condition of the importations1 whether they have been collected at the proper time1 and whether they have been properly packed and forwarded4 ,many imported ,orchids offered for sale cannot possibly do well1 as from improper packing they have heated1 or been subjected to excessive heat or cold whilst on board4 ,cases of ,orchids awaiting transit are often left on the landings in the full sun and become partially desiccated1 though while dry still retaining a green appearance4 ,such collectors' failures die rapidly as soon as heat and moisture are given1 and1 even in the case of those which seem to establish a healthy appearance of the pseudo-bulbs1 growth is not possible1 as the growth-buds have been dried up4 ,it is waste of time trying to bring such plants round1 therefore care should be taken not to purchase them at any price4 ,imported ,orchids of all kinds should be trimmed over as soon as they are received1 the damaged parts removed1 and the plants placed in a cool-intermediate temperature after they have been sponged over4 ,they may be suspended for a few days and afterwards placed in small pots of broken crocks4 ,pseudo-bulbous ,orchids1 such as ,odontoglossums and ,cattleyas1 should not be watered1 but they may be sponged occasionally until growth commences1 when they should be potted in the usual manner4 ,aerides1 ,saccolabiums1 ,vandas1 ,angraecums1 and other ,orchids not having pseudo-bulbs may be treated in the same way as the pseudo-bulbous kinds1 it being probably the safer and more cautious policy4 ,but good results1 and a quicker establishment may be secured1 if the plants are recoverable by immersing them for five minutes in a rain-water tank immediately on arrival1 suspending them head downwards from the roof of the house afterwards1 and repeating the dipping two or three times a week4 ,this method has the advantage at least that those which were not recoverable are quickly discovered1 while the sound plants soon plump up4 ,with all imported plants there is no use potting them permanently and watering them until growth commences1 but they must not be kept too hot in the meantime4 ,,chapter ,,xviii ,,odours ,,of ,,orchids ,many ,orchids have fragrant flowers1 while in some sections the fragrance is emitted by the whole plant4 ,a large number of ,burmese and ,indian1 highland ,orchids1 such as ,dendrobium moschatum1 the section of deciduous ,bulbophyllums which includes ,b4 auricomum1 ,b4 hirtum1 ,b4 comosum1 and ,b4 suavissimum1 have leaves that on becoming dry after falling give off a strong odour of newly-mown hay1 the plants also in all their parts being similarly scented when dry1 even the cases containing them being pleasantly scented by the plants4 ,the odours of ,orchid flowers may generally be likened to well-known perfumes4 ,trichopilia suavis1 ,miltonia ,roezlii1 and others are scented like the ,rose2 ,odontoglossum odoratum and some other ,odontoglossums1 ,maxillaria picta and other ,maxillarias1 like the ,hawthorn4 ,certain ,maxillarias of the ,m4 luteo-alba section are scented like ,honeysuckle1 and odour similar to the ,tuberose is given off by many ,angraecums4 ,some have a much stronger odour at night than in the day1 a peculiarity which is found in ,epidendrum nocturnum1 ,e4 ciliare1 and many species4 ,vanilla is a common scent in ,orchids1 being present in some ,vandas4 ,the odour of ,violets is furnished by ,dendrobium heterocarpum and others of its class1 and the ,primrose1 ,wallflower1 and other common garden plants have their exact imitators in the matter of scent in some tropical ,orchids--indeed1 it is an interesting subject to consider how plants resemble each other in this particular4 ,then there are large numbers of ,orchids with such delicate odours that some are unable to appreciate them1 but they are specially grateful to those who detect them4 ,again1 some ,orchids have different odours at different times in the day4 ,it is not safe1 therefore1 to declare a plant scentless unless it has been tested repeatedly at different times4 ,variation in odour has been noticed4 ,we remember flowering the first ,odontoglossum hebraicum1 and on testing it its odour was of cinnamon4 ,it passed to ,sir ,trevor ,lawrence's collection1 and we asked the late ,mr4 ,spyers to test the odour1 and he replied that it was of ,hawthorn1 like others of its class4 ,he tested it several times with the same result1 but for some time before it passed off he reported to us that it smelt exactly like cinnamon4 ,then there are odours in ,orchids about which opinions are divided as to whether they are pleasant or not4 ,oncidium ornithorhynchum is an example2 some like the odour of it very much1 while it is disagreeable to others4 ,the same applies to ,anguloas1 some ,lycastes and ,stanhopeas with strongly aromatic scent1 which are pleasant at a distance1 but not so when too closely approached4 ,but the majority are distinctly pleasant1 ,cattleya ,dowiana and its hybrids1 ,c4 ,eldorado and others1 being delicately fragrant4 ,a very few are malodorous1 ,bulbophyllum ,beccari not being tolerable under any circumstances1 the flowers smelling like some of the ,stapelias4 ,,chapter ,,xix ,,hybridising ,,and ,,raising ,,seedling ,,orchids ,a new interest has been added to ,orchid culture by the pursuit of hybridising and raising seedling ,orchids1 which commenced with ,calanthe ,dominyi1 raised in the nurseries of ,messrs4 ,veitch and recorded in the ,gardeners' ,chronicle in #aheh4 ,the practice has now become general1 and a large number of ,orchidists arrange for the production of new ,orchids from seeds1 while even in small collections some attention is given to the matter4 ,when the engrossing pursuit is first taken up1 the operator should neglect no opportunity to make himself conversant with the structure of the flowers4 ,this may be done effectually by carefully examining any available flowers1 and by making longitudinal sections of the bloom by cutting them in two1 commencing at the apex of the column and finishing at the ovary and pedicel4 ,this operation exposes the various organs that are concerned in the fertilisation of the flower4 ,in most ,orchids1 such for instance as ,laelias and ,cattleyas1 it will be seen that the pollen masses are situated at the apex of the column covered by the anther cap1 the stigma being in a cavity in the face of the column beneath it4 ,in ,cypripedium there are two developed anthers2 the viscous pollen masses are not enclosed in cases1 but are placed opposite each other2 the stigma is a shield-shaped body seen inside the lip on the under side of the column1 and the stigmatic surface is not viscous4 ,the details of the structure of the flowers being fully understood1 it will readily be seen that the first process in the production of seeds is to fertilise the flower intended to bear the seed capsule with the pollen of the other parent selected4 ,this is readily accomplished by lifting the pollen masses beneath the anther-cap with a thin pencil or sharpened stick and placing them on the stigmatic surface of the seed-bearing parent4 ,flowers which are intended to be fertilised for seed-bearing should have their own pollen carefully removed before the pollen taken from the other plant is introduced1 the pollen removed being used to effect the reverse cross1 or to fertilise another species if desired4 ,in fertilising small flowers with the pollen of larger species1 as in the case of ,sophronitis grandiflora with the pollinia of the larger species1 the pollen masses may be cut and a portion of it used in crossing the smaller flower4 ,when the flower of a plant has been fertilised1 the plant should receive special attention2 if it is a ,cattleya1 ,laelia1 or one of the large-growing epiphytes1 it should1 after the pseudo-bulb bearing the flower has had a number attached to it corresponding to the number in the stock-book in which the crosses are recorded1 be suspended from the roof in a comfortable and not draughty situation4 ,if the plant is in a pot1 the pot should be placed in a basket and suspended2 or if a suitable position can be found on the stage1 it could be placed on an inverted pot to bring it into prominence and secure for it careful attention4 ,where there is a number of seed-bearing plants1 they should be arranged together in the respective houses in which they are grown4 ,early in its development1 the seed capsule should be supported by ties1 which1 however1 should not bring it into an unnatural position1 or press tightly on the part supported4 ,from this time failure may arise from the conflicting natures of the agents used1 or from various causes4 ,even the production of a fine and seemingly mature fruit is not a certain indication of good seeds1 for seed capsules have been produced by irritation of the stigmatic surface by grit or dust1 but no fertile seeds can be thus produced4 ,on approaching maturity1 a tie should be made round the middle of the capsule to prevent loss of seed when the splitting of the capsule takes place1 and1 when it is thoroughly mature1 it should be removed1 placed in a flower-pot lined with tissue-paper1 and put on a shelf in a dry potting-shed until so thoroughly ripe that the seeds are being shed in the tissue-paper covering4 ,at this stage it is possible for the first time to determine whether the seed1 or any of it1 is good or not4 ,examination with a strong lens will show whether the minute seeds are good or not by the presence or absence of the embryo in the centre of the elongated covering1 which in imperfectly developed specimens is chaff-like and not thickened in the middle as are good seeds4 ,where no good seeds are found1 it is the custom of some growers to discard it at once1 and where but few good seeds appear1 attempts are made to discard the chaff and to retain the supposed good ones for sowing4 ,where space admits1 however1 especially with the beginner1 it would be more prudent to sow a portion of the contents of the capsule1 whether supposed to be good or not4 ,,seed ,,sowing ,a number of the seeds of all seed capsules should be sown as soon as they are ready1 the remainder being carefully stored for sowing later if required1 the seeds sown and those retained being carefully marked with the number in the record book4 ,the manner of sowing the seeds varies in different establishments1 satisfactory results having been obtained under very dissimilar conditions4 ,failure at first is the usual record of the amateur taking up ,orchid hybridisation1 although some few get fairly good success from the commencement1 while those who have had a run of bad luck usually conquer in the end if they persevere4 ,a scientific reason for some failures has been given1 namely1 that an endophytic fungus said to be necessary to the development of the freshly germinated seeds is wanting in the early stages1 but may be developed naturally after a time1 and a better state of growth result4 ,be that as it may1 it is a curious fact that the line of demarcation between failure and success in the matter of raising seedling ,orchids is very narrow1 and1 when the operator succeeds in raising a fair proportion of the seeds sown1 he is generally surprised at his former want of success1 apparently under practically similar conditions4 ,formerly the common practice was to sow the seeds on the surface of the material in which the parent plant was growing1 or a plant of some kindred variety4 ,this practice has been generally satisfactory and continues in most amateur collections to the present day4 ,a plant in a basket1 or suspended pan or pot1 is best1 the subject being chosen for the good quality of the peat1 ,osmunda fibre1 or whatever material the plant may be growing in4 ,the ,sphagnum-moss on the surface should be clipped very short1 the plant thoroughly watered with rain water1 and allowed to drain for a few hours4 ,the seeds should be sown a few at a time1 on the point of a knife or thin strip of hard wood or ivory1 and carefully and evenly distributed over the surface of the material in which the selected plant is growing4 ,in all cases the number of the record in the stock-book should be attached1 a small celluloid tablet fastened by a thin wire being the best label1 as it is clean and durable4 ,hybrids of ,laelia1 ,cattleya1 and other true epiphytes should be suspended in a warm1 intermediate house1 and ,cypripediums and terrestrial ,orchids may be sown in a similar manner in the pots of either the seed-bearing subject or similar kinds and placed in a moist1 sheltered corner of a house1 in which a genial warmth is maintained1 the plants being elevated on inverted flower-pots4 ,once the seeds are sown1 the plants fostering them should never be allowed to get dry4 ,odontoglossum seeds come up best when sown on the surface of established plants in the manner described4 ,to ensure the best results two or three sowings of each should be made1 and the plants bearing the freshly sown seeds placed in different parts of the house1 some being suspended and others placed on the stage4 ,the maintenance of a continual and even amount of moisture after sowing1 and until the seedling plants send forth roots1 is of the highest importance4 ,to water either with a spouted or a rose pot overhead would wash the seeds away4 ,to avoid this1 some resort to the practice of dipping the plants on which the seeds are sown1 allowing the water to reach only to within an inch of the surface of the compost4 ,this is better than watering overhead4 ,spraying with rain-water is an excellent means of securing uniform moisture1 although it requires more care and attention than dipping4 ,the sprayer is a great help in all stages of seedling ,orchid growth1 not only as a means of conveying moisture direct1 but by spraying around the plants and on the staging it is a great aid to maintaining a moist atmosphere4 ,let the moisture be conveyed in whatever manner it may1 it must not be forgotten that the seeds will perish soon after germination if allowed to get quite dry1 either from failure of moisture in the material on which they are sown1 or from an excessively dry air surrounding them4 ,against the above-mentioned practice of sowing the seeds on established plants1 it is urged that in that way there is no certain means of keeping the different crosses from being mixed1 by reason of the seeds of one kind getting into the water-tank and being thus conveyed and mixed with others2 and by seeds falling from plants suspended overhead and coming up on plants beneath1 and in other unexpected places4 ,such acquisitions1 though often very acceptable1 are puzzling1 as there is no record of their origin1 or if they come up amongst seeds which have a record1 the chance introductions sometimes have a wrong parentage assigned to them4 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,,vi ,,cymbidium ,,lowio-,,eburneum 7,this plant has been commended for its culture on two separate occasions by the ,r4,h4,s47 ,to lessen such risks1 it is the custom of some growers to arrange a seed-raising case1 constructed like an ordinary propagating case1 in form like a miniature lean-to1 or span-roofed ,orchid house4 ,this is arranged over a part of the staging where there is a slight warmth from the hot-water pipes4 ,the staging has a few inches of cocoa-nut fibre1 or chopped ,osmunda fibre1 fine ballast1 or other moisture-holding substance1 and on this a number of inverted flower-pots are closely arranged to form stands for the pots or pans in which the material for sowing the seeds on is placed3 or a light1 open wood-work staging is arranged4 ,the favourite surface for sowing the seeds on is prepared by stretching a small square of coarse calico or fine light muslin shading material over a ball of ,sphagnum-moss1 and pressing it into a #fj or small #dh size flower-pot1 so that the unwrinkled convex surface of the ball has the centre just below the level of the rim of the pots1 the sides being lower4 ,these are thoroughly soaked and allowed to drain before sowing the seeds on them1 and they are then placed on the inverted pots in the case4 ,the covering of the case is sometimes of the nature of hinged sashes to lift from the front1 but the most convenient and best covering is that formed of sheets or panes of glass cut about one foot wide and of a length sufficient to cover the frame1 by resting one end on a groove in the front side of the case1 and the other on the top bar4 ,a sufficient number of these sheets of glass should be provided to cover the frame2 they are excellent1 as they give a certain means of continual ventilation in some degree through the laps of the glass1 even when closed1 and they may be closely or openly arranged to regulate the amount of air admitted4 ,such pieces of glass can easily be removed to inspect the seedlings4 ,what is commonly called coddling causes great mortality among ,orchids1 and in this particular the use of seedling cases1 if not very carefully and sensibly worked is less likely to be satisfactory than sowing the seeds on plants growing in the houses4 ,too much heat is very harmful4 ,odontoglossums proved difficult to raise at first1 and this was mainly because the seedlings were kept too warm and close4 ,if the cultures are carried on in the ,odontoglossum house1 success is generally attained1 although the products are seldom so numerous as in ,cattleya1 ,laelia1 and ,cypripedium hybrids4 ,another plan adopted by some growers1 and with tolerable success1 is to place squares of ,osmunda fibre in pans1 and after soaking them1 sow the seed on them4 ,others have discs of soft wood1 such as ,willow1 cut across the grain and placed in flower-pots or pans with the fibre of the wood-grain uppermost2 after soaking the discs1 the seeds are sown on them4 ,when not raised in glass cases1 round or square pieces of glass are placed on the pots4 ,indeed1 there is ample evidence that1 provided good seeds are sown and placed in a suitable temperature1 ,orchid seeds germinate readily4 ,the first sign of vitality is given by the good seeds assuming a green appearance2 in time they become little spherical green bodies1 which later produce a growing point2 in due course the true root appears1 and the little plants are ready for pricking off or transplanting into previously prepared store pots prepared with a good drainage of small crocks or broken charcoal in the bottom1 some ,osmunda fibre or other ,orchid potting material1 and an inch or so of very fine compost formed of decayed leaves1 ,osmunda fibre1 or good ,orchid peat and ,sphagnum-moss in equal parts1 the whole rubbed together through a fine sieve4 ,some add a proportion of sand to this compost4 ,the whole should be thoroughly well watered before the tiny seedlings are placed a quarter of an inch or so apart in small holes in the surface of the compost and sprayed to settle them in position4 ,up to this stage the greatest mortality is observed4 ,wide crosses between species of dissimilar nature1 and which have up to the production of the growth point or root appeared to be doing well1 having shown that they did not belong to the unfertile1 suddenly collapse4 ,those which have taken a long time to germinate have fallen victims to the minute fungi1 and other low forms of vegetable organism1 which1 commencing at one or two spots1 have gradually overgrown the surface of the pot and destroyed them4 ,the stronger are often destroyed by small insects1 while drip1 however carefully guarded against1 claims its share of the spoil4 ,these things are specially vexing to the amateur who is working in a small way4 ,to the expert cultivator who has a multitude of subjects in hand1 and whose methods and appliances mitigate the evils1 the losses are not so serious1 for when ,orchid seeds germinate freely they provide for losses when sown on a large scale4 ,nothing is gained by removing the little seedlings from the seed pot or basket too early4 ,if thriving1 they should be left until they are large enough to be handled safely4 ,but where there is overcrowding1 or damping off1 or decay from fungus1 it is best to remove some or all of the little seedlings in any stage of growth to the store-pots4 ,the store-pots should be returned to the seedling case1 or placed on a shelf near the glass in a warm1 moist house1 where the seedlings should increase in size until they are ready to remove to fresh store-pots1 when they may be given more room2 or if large enough1 they may be placed singly in thimble pots1 or three or four seedlings may be placed round the rims of thumb pots4 ,seedling ,odontoglossums1 when large enough to occupy thimble pots1 are found to thrive well when the pots are fixed in pans or shallow seed-boxes in ,sphagnum-moss1 and placed on a shelf near the glass in the ,odontoglossum house1 where1 like other seedling ,orchids1 they should be lightly sprayed several times each day in fine1 warm weather1 and as often as may be deemed necessary in colder and dull weather4 ,from the time the little plants are established in small pots until their flowering stage1 it is only a matter of ordinary culture1 although1 as a rule1 the small seedlings are safer with four or five degrees more heat than is afforded the established plants4 ,in the matter of growth from the seedling stage to the flowering plant1 there is but little need of a resting season1 even with species such as are deciduous when mature1 although a diminished supply of water may be given for a short time to any which1 having completed a growth1 show no sign of developing a fresh one4 ,in most cases1 a thorough drying1 even if it does not destroy a seedling1 causes the flowering season to be delayed by a year1 or even longer4 ,the careful shading of the seedling house is a very important matter4 ,very young plants do best in a subdued light1 and until they are quite strong plants they should not be exposed to direct sunlight4 ,a hot summer often kills even the plants which have been brought satisfactorily through a long winter4 ,it is1 therefore1 advisable to have on the seedling house1 in addition to the lath roller blind1 running on supports carrying it well above the glass of the roof1 either a second lath roller blind running an inch or so above the glass and beneath the upper one1 or a permanent thin cotton shading1 which may be tacked on in spring and left until autumn2 or1 preferably1 so fitted that it can be rolled up when it is not required4 ,,selection ,,of ,,subjects ,,for ,,hybridising ,the best varieties procurable should always be selected for hybridising1 it having been proved that crosses originally made with indifferent varieties are much finer when raised again from more carefully selected varieties4 ,there seems to be no certain limit to the possibility of crossing2 even the most dissimilar genera may be crossed with some probability of getting a successful result4 ,,potting ,,material ,,for ,,hybrid ,,orchids ,from the time the little plants are well established in single pots1 the same potting material used for all of their kind may be employed1 the plants in the earlier stage having the potting material in a finer condition than that provided for the larger plants as they approach the flowering stage4 ,as with other important operations1 in ,orchid potting and in the material used the practice varies considerably1 even in the best collections1 and this points to the fact that if the accommodation is good1 the houses properly heated1 and other details of culture carefully carried out1 the exact composition of the potting material is of minor importance4 ,for ,cattleya and ,laelia hybrids and a large number of epiphytes grown with them the compost is made by tearing up the materials with the hand1 or in some other way which will not break the fibres very much4 ,osmunda fibre forms one-half to two-thirds of the compost1 the other third being made up of good ,sphagnum-moss and ,oak leaves or other decayed1 dryish leaves4 ,we do not recommend leaf-soil or leaf-mould1 which was formerly strongly advocated1 especially by ,continental growers1 who used it with disastrous results4 ,the most that is done now is to mix a proportion of it with other potting material for ,lycastes1 ,calanthes1 ,phaius1 and similar strong-growing terrestrial ,orchids4 ,for mixing with the compost for hybrid ,orchids1 some use crushed crocks1 sand1 charcoal1 and a small proportion of each or either may be employed safely1 although there is no real need for such materials4 ,polypodium fibre may also be substituted for ,osmunda fibre1 or a proportion of each may be used4 ,orchid peat fibre1 which used to be the chief potting material for ,orchids1 is still perhaps as good as any of the other fibres1 provided a really good quality can be obtained1 a matter which has become increasingly difficult4 ,for ,cypripediums1 and especially ,selenipediums1 a proportion of good1 fibrous loam should be added to the compost recommended for epiphytal ,orchids1 the proportion of loam being increased as the plants get larger4 ,phaius1 ,calanthes1 ,zygopetalums1 ,zygocolax1 and other plants of a similar character should also have a proportion of loam-fibre in the compost1 and in these cases ,orchid peat may be substituted for ,osmunda fibre1 if it is of good quality4 ,so far as it has been tested1 ,osmunda fibre has an advantage over other fibres1 in that it is more durable1 retaining its fibre intact longer than any other4 ,osmunda fibre and ,polypodium fibre in equal proportions1 with an addition of leaves and ,sphagnum-moss1 make an excellent material for all young1 epiphytal ,orchids1 the finer ,polypodium fibre1 if well worked in1 giving substance to the more open ,osmunda fibre4 ,for very small plants it is well to rub the mixture through a coarse sieve1 but after the early stages the use of the sieve should be discontinued1 and the compost carefully mixed with the hands4 ,,chapter ,,xx ,,enumeration ,,of ,,the ,,principal ,,genera ,,and ,,species ,,in ,,cultivation ,acanthophippium4--,a small genus of terrestrial plants with oblong pseudo-bulbs1 and broad1 plicate leaves4 ,scape erect1 flowers ventricose1 yellow and reddish-purple4 ,warm house4 ,pot in equal parts of turfy loam1 peat1 and leaves4 ,rest dry after the leaves fade and growth is completed4 ,the most familiar species are ,a4 bicolor1 ,a4 javanicum1 and ,a4 striatum4 ,acineta4--,the species of ,acineta are epiphytal ,orchids with stout pseudo-bulbs and broad1 coriaceous leaves4 ,the flowers are produced in pendulous racemes2 they are fleshy1 whitish1 or yellow1 and spotted with purple or brown4 ,they should be grown in baskets suspended in the intermediate house4 ,a4 ,barkeri1 ,a4 densa1 and ,a4 ,humboldtii are free-growing species4 ,acropera4 ,see ,gongora4 ,ada4--,cool-house genus from ,colombia4 ,leafy evergreen plants with racemes of orange-scarlet flowers4 ,ada aurantiaca is almost the sole representative of the genus in gardens1 and should be grown even in the smallest collections4 ,aeranthus4 ,see ,angraecum4 ,aerides4--,a large genus of evergreen ,orchids with distichously arranged1 leathery1 green leaves1 the stem producing air-roots freely4 ,natives of ,india1 the ,malay ,archipelago1 and other parts of that region1 extending to ,japan4 ,all the species of ,aerides may be grown in pots1 crocked from one-half to two-thirds of the way up1 the old stems of the plants1 when long1 being placed in the pots before the crocks are filled in4 ,the surface should be of good living ,sphagnum-moss1 and the plants should be liberally watered from the end of ,february or beginning of ,march until autumn1 when the supply of water should be restricted according to the condition of growth of the plants4 ,those which have finished their growth and are not showing new leaves in the centre should be given the least supply1 but it is not advisable to dry any off completely1 unless for some reason they have to be kept comparatively cool throughout the winter1 when they are safest if kept tolerably dry4 ,the smaller species may be grown in baskets with advantage when convenient--indeed1 the true epiphytal character of the whole genus would suggest that method as the better1 but experience has proved that they may be equally well grown in pots4 ,the warm house1 or warm end of the intermediate house1 suits all the species1 but ,a4 japonicum may be grown in the cool house4 ,most of the species have white and rose-coloured flowers1 and they are very fragrant4 ,a4 odoratum1 one of the oldest of garden ,orchids1 is one of the best and most free-growing species4 ,a4 crispum1 ,a4 crassifolium1 ,a4 ,fieldingii1 ,a4 ,houlletianum1 ,a4 falcatum1 ,a4 ,lawrenciae1 ,a4 multiflorum in its many forms1 ,a4 quinquevulnera1 ,a4 suavissimum1 and ,a4 virens are the best for amateurs4 ,a4 cylindricum and ,a4 ,vandarum have terete leaves like ,vanda teres1 the former with white flowers1 having a fleshy yellow and red lip1 and the latter1 which is more membraneous in substance1 being white4 ,although often confused with each other in gardens1 there is little resemblance between these two species4 ,aganisia4--,this genus thrives best in ,orchid pans in the intermediate house1 in the ordinary compost used for epiphytal ,orchids1 with an addition of leaves4 ,place the plants in a moist situation4 ,a4 caerulea is of trailing habit1 and has blue and white flowers4 ,a4 ionoptera is white and purple1 and ,a4 lepida white4 ,angraecum4--,a large genus chiefly from ,africa and ,madagascar1 and requiring similar treatment to ,aerides4 ,botanists have divided the genus into ,aeranthus1 ,listrostachys1 ,mystacidium1 c41 but for garden purposes the one generic title suffices4 ,the flowers of nearly all the species are white and fragrant1 many of them being furnished with long1 greenish spurs4 ,a representative selection could be made with ,a4 arcuatum1 ,a4 ,ellisii1 ,a4 ,humblotii1 ,a4 infundibulare1 ,a4 ,kotschyi1 ,a4 modestum1 ,a4 ,scottianum1 ,a4 superbum 7eburneum71 and ,a4 sesquipedale1 the last-named ,madagascar species being the finest of the genus4 ,anguloa4--,colombian and ,peruvian ,orchids of strong growth1 and similar in habit to ,lycaste4 ,the flowers are usually produced singly on upright stems4 ,pot in two-thirds peat and one-third ,sphagnum-moss or ,osmunda fibre4 ,when good loam fibre can be obtained1 a small proportion may be added4 ,intermediate house4 ,rest tolerably dry and cool after growth is completed4 ,a4 ,clowesii1 yellow2 ,a4 ,ruckeri1 yellow and dark-red2 ,a4 uniflora and its variety eburnea1 white4 ,anoectochilus4--,a dwarf genus with fleshy1 creeping stems and very handsomely marked leaves4 ,the plants should be grown in shallow ,orchid pots1 using a mixture of one-third peat1 and loam and leaves in equal parts well mixed together1 adding some finely broken crocks4 ,the plants should be placed in a moist corner1 or suspended in a shady part of a warm1 moist house4 ,they root along the stems1 and may be increased by cutting the leading portions with a root or two and leaving the bases to break into new growth4 ,with the ,anoectochili1 and often under the same generic title1 are usually associated ,dossinia marmorata 7,a4 ,lowii71 with broadly ovate1 olive-green1 veined leaves2 ,macodes ,petola1 emerald-green veined with gold2 ,haemaria discolor1 dark bronzy-red veined with copper colour1 often named ,goodyera ,dawsoniana1 and plants of similar character4 ,the flowers of most of the species are white4 ,they are sometimes grown in plant cases1 or under bell glasses1 but if the proper position in a warm1 moist house can be found1 they are better without these coverings4 ,propagation renews the vigour of the plants and prevents them degenerating1 as they often do in cultivation if left undisturbed for too long a period4 ,ansellia4--,a fine genus of some half-dozen species peculiar to ,natal and ,tropical ,africa1 and growing from one to six feet in height1 the leafy pseudo-bulbs having at the top fine1 branched spikes of yellow flowers1 more or less barred or spotted with purple4 ,pot as for epiphytal ,orchids1 and grow in the intermediate house4 ,water the roots liberally until the flowering is past1 and then rest the plants in cool and dry conditions4 ,a4 africana is not only most commonly grown1 but it is one of the finest species4 ,others1 some of which are mere varieties of ,a4 africana1 are ,a4 confusa1 ,a4 gigantea1 ,a4 nilotica1 and ,a4 congoensis4 ,arachnanthe4--,this is a small genus of warm-house plants possessing extraordinary habits1 and including the ,bornean ,a4 ,lowii 7,vanda ,lowii71 a very strong-growing species which bears drooping racemes of greenish-white flowers barred with red4 ,the two basal blooms are dissimilar or dimorphic both in shape and colour1 being tawny yellow spotted with purple4 ,the plants should be grown in pots or baskets as ,aerides4 ,other species are ,a4 ,cathcartii 7,himalaya7 and ,a4 moschifera 7,malaya74 ,a4 ,cathcartii will thrive in the intermediate house4 ,barkeria4--,the ,barkerias form a section of ,epidendrums4 ,they should be grown in baskets or suspending pans in the cool intermediate house4 ,they require a dry and cool resting period4 ,bartholina4--,the ,bartholinas are dwarf1 terrestrial ,orchids of ,south ,africa4 ,they should be potted in loam1 peat1 and sand1 and cultivated on a greenhouse shelf4 ,rest dry and cool4 ,b4 pectinata is the only species in gardens4 ,batemannia and ,bollea4 ,see ,zygopetalum4 ,bifrenaria4--,pot these as recommended for epiphytal ,orchids1 and grow them in the intermediate house4 ,b4 ,harrisoniae is the finest species4 ,others worthy of cultivation are ,b4 aurantiaca1 ,b4 bicornaria1 ,b4 inodora1 ,b4 tyrianthina1 and ,b4 vitellina4 ,brassia4--,the ,brassias are epiphytal ,orchids of ,south ,america1 and may be grown in the intermediate house4 ,the most familiar species are ,b4 brachiata1 ,b4 caudata1 ,b4 ,lawrenceana1 and ,b4 verrucosa4 ,broughtonia4--,b4 sanguinea is a pretty1 crimson-flowered species from ,jamaica4 ,b4 lilacina is also a fine species1 though rarely seen in gardens4 ,broughtonias should be grown on bare rafts suspended in the warm or intermediate house4 ,brassavola4--,a small genus with white1 fragrant flowers4 ,b4 ,digbyana1 a species with large1 fringed-lipped flowers1 has been much used by the hybridist4 ,brassavolas may be grown with the ,cattleyas4 ,bulbophyllum4--,a widely distributed genus which may be divided into two sections--the deciduous1 chiefly ,burmese1 requiring a dry resting season2 and the evergreen1 which should not be strictly dried off4 ,all the species thrive in a warm1 intermediate house1 with cooler rest for the deciduous and highland species4 ,the genus is one of the most varied and remarkable1 and full collections of them are grown by some amateurs4 ,calanthe4--,these are terrestrial ,orchids1 which may be divided into two sections--the evergreen of the ,c4 veratrifolia class2 and the deciduous1 comprising ,c4 vestita1 ,c4 ,veitchii1 and numerous other species and hybrids which are extensively grown for flowering in winter4 ,pot them in a compost of one-half fibrous loam1 one-fourth ,sphagnum-moss1 and one-fourth leaves1 with a sprinkling of sand4 ,rest the deciduous section dry after flowering1 and repot them when growth commences in spring4 ,water liberally with occasional applications of liquid manure1 which should be withheld when the growth is completed4 ,catasetum4--,the ,catasetums are curious1 epiphytal ,orchids1 which should be grown in baskets1 or ,orchid pans1 suspended in the intermediate house1 and treated in a similar manner to the deciduous ,dendrobiums4 ,they require a long1 dry rest after the growths are completed4 ,all the species are worthy of cultivation1 ,c4 ,bungerothii1 ,c4 splendens1 and ,c4 macrocarpa being the more showy kinds4 ,cattleya4--,one of the largest1 most varied1 and florally beautiful genera of ,orchids4 ,the plants should be potted as recommended for epiphytal ,orchids1 and they should be grown in the intermediate house4 ,the ,c4 labiata section1 including ,c4 ,gaskelliana1 ,c4 ,mossiae1 ,c4 ,mendelii1 ,c4 ,dowiana and its variety aurea1 ,c ,warscewiczii1 ,c4 ,warneri1 and ,c4 ,schroederae in succession1 produce flowers for the greater part of the year4 ,c4 citrina should be grown in the cool house1 suspended from the roof4 ,cattleyas and ,laelias are impatient of a close atmosphere1 and therefore the proper ventilation of the house in which they are grown is an important matter4 ,c4 ,trianae1 var ,hydra1 is illustrated in ,plate ,,iv4 ,chysis4--,a small genus of intermediate-house epiphytes1 comprising ,c4 bractescens1 white2 ,c4 aurea and ,c4 laevis1 yellow and red2 ,c4 ,limminghei1 and several hybrids4 ,cirrhopetalum4--,a section of ,bulbophyllum1 of similar habit1 and requiring similar treatment4 ,the curiously formed flowers frequently have the upper segments fringed1 and the lateral ones approached and continued into slender tails4 ,cirrhaea4--,allied to ,gongora1 and requiring similar treatment4 ,cochlioda4--,a compact-growing genus to be grown with the ,odontoglossums4 ,c4 ,noezliana1 scarlet1 has been a fine species in the hands of the hybridiser1 and in the future may give us ,scarlet ,odontoglossums4 ,c4 vulcanica has deep rose-coloured flowers4 ,coelia4--,there are several species of ,coelia1 and they require to be grown in the intermediate house4 ,coelogyne4--,a very large genus of two distinct sections1 that represented by ,c4 cristata being evergreen2 the ,pleione or ,indian crocus section deciduous1 and requiring to be treated as terrestrial ,orchids1 while the larger section are epiphytal4 ,the epiphytal sections are warm and intermediate house plants4 ,the ,pleiones should be grown in a cool house1 and rested quite dry after the leaves fade and until growth again commences4 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,,vii ,,oncidium ,,marshallianum ,comparettia4--,these are small-growing epiphytes4 ,grow in small baskets or hanging pans in the intermediate house4 ,c4 falcata1 red1 ,c4 macroplectron1 pale rose2 spotted2 and ,c4 speciosa1 scarlet1 are the best species4 ,colax4--,a small genus of cool-house ,orchids allied to ,lycaste1 and requiring similar treatment4 ,c4 jugosus has been crossed with ,zygopetalums with good results4 ,coryanthes4--,these are similar in habit to ,stanhopea4 ,the plants should be grown in baskets suspended in the intermediate house4 ,the structure of the large1 fleshy flowers is most remarkable1 and some interesting particulars relating to their fertilisation by insect aid have been recorded in the ,gardeners' ,chronicle 7,july #ag1 #ahig1 p4 #ca74 ,cycnoches4--,of similar habit and requirements to ,catasetum4 ,the plants are best grown in baskets and suspended4 ,they should be rested cool and dry with the deciduous ,dendrobiums4 ,c4 chlorochilon 7,swan ,orchid71 ,c4 ,egertonianum1 ,c4 ,loddigesii1 ,c4 maculatum1 ,c4 peruvianum1 and ,c4 pentadactylon are fine species4 ,cymbidium4--,these are showy1 large-growing ,orchids for the intermediate house or warm conservatory4 ,pot the plants in equal proportions of fibrous loam1 peat1 and ,sphagnum-moss4 ,c4 giganteum1 ,c4 ,lowianum1 ,c4 grandiflorum1 and ,c4 ,tracyanum are the most commonly grown4 ,c4 eburneum1 ,c4 ,mastersii1 ,c4 insigne1 and ,c4 erythrostylum are fine1 white species1 the latter two with rose markings on the lip4 ,there are numerous hybrids4 ,c4 ,lowio-eburneum1 a cross from ,c4 ,lowianum1 and ,c4 eburneum is illustrated in ,plate ,,vi4 ,cynorchis4--,terrestrial ,orchids from ,tropical ,africa and ,madagascar1 requiring to be grown in the warm house in moist and shady conditions4 ,the flowers are generally of rose colour4 ,cypripedium4--,this is one of the largest1 most useful1 and most prolific genera1 which1 although commonly known in gardens as ,cypripedium1 may be divided into several distinct classes4 ,most of those generally known in gardens as ,cypripediums have been termed ,paphiopedilum1 including ,c4 barbatum1 and ,c4 ,rothschildianum1 and the green-leafed class1 more commonly known in gardens as ,selenipedium1 are now termed ,phragmopedilum4 ,the name ,cypripedium1 however1 has so firm a hold on cultivators that it is convenient to retain it in gardening handbooks4 ,the ,cypripediums have very numerous hybrids1 and their numbers increase annually4 ,an enumeration is therefore impossible within the scope of this work4 ,all require to be treated as terrestrial ,orchids1 a proportion of fibrous loam 7see the chapter on potting terrestrial ,orchids7 being added in proportion to the strength of the subject1 the largest proportion being given to the strongest growers4 ,the ,selenipedium1 or green-leafed section1 should be potted in fibrous loam1 with a sprinkling of leaves and ,sphagnum-moss4 ,c4 insigne1 ,c4 ,spicerianum1 ,c4 ,charlesworthii1 and others of the class1 also hybrids of them1 may be grown in the cool house4 ,c4 ,rothschildianum1 ,c4 ,stonei1 and the whole of that section require the highest temperature1 but all may be grown successfully in an intermediate house4 ,c4 insigne ,sanderae is illustrated in ,plate ,i4 ,cyrtopodium4--,a strong-growing genus needing to be grown in the intermediate house4 ,the plants should be potted as terrestrial ,orchids4 ,c4 punctatum is the showiest and most easily grown species4 ,dendrobium4--,one of the largest and most decorative genera of epiphytal ,orchids1 comprising several hundred species and a large number of hybrids4 ,primarily the genus may be divided into two classes--the evergreen2 and the deciduous1 which lose their leaves after the completion of the growths1 and should have a protracted dry resting season4 ,the evergreen species have a shorter and less rigorous resting season accorded them4 ,the deciduous class is exemplified by ,d4 nobile1 ,d4 ,wardianum1 ,d4 crassinode1 and the plants associated with them1 and their hybrids2 and the evergreen species by ,d4 densiflorum1 ,d4 ,farmeri1 and ,d4 chrysotoxum4 ,d4 ,wardianum1 with #bfd flowers1 is illustrated in ,plate ,,iii4 ,next1 the genus may be divided into two further classes--those requiring a high temperature1 such as ,d4 ,phalaenopsis1 ,d4 superbum1 ,d4 atro-violaceum1 c42 and those which may be grown comparatively cool1 which include ,d4 speciosum 7an excellent plant for a sunny conservatory71 ,d4 moniliforme from ,japan1 ,d4 aggregatum1 ,d4 ,jenkinsii1 and many others4 ,all the species require a high temperature1 moist atmosphere1 and an abundance of water during the growing season1 but should be kept drier and cooler after the growth is completed to prepare them for flowering4 ,the species with pendulous growths should be grown in baskets or suspended pans4 ,diacrium4--,a section of ,epidendrum1 with hollow pseudo-bulbs1 and white1 wax-like flowers4 ,d4 bicornutum is a very fine species for the warm house4 ,disa4--,a genus of terrestrial ,orchids from ,africa1 best represented in gardens by the fine ,scarlet ,disa grandiflora1 which1 with the others of its section1 ,d4 racemosa and ,d4 tripetaloides1 have produced many beautiful hybrids4 ,these are cool-house plants1 and should be potted in a mixture of peat1 ,sphagnum-moss1 sand1 and loam fibre4 ,they are increased by offsets1 and1 when repotted soon after the flowering season1 the strong growths should be potted on for flowering1 and the smaller ones placed together in store pans4 ,free drainage should be provided1 and the plants liberally watered until they flower4 ,after this stage1 cultivation in a cold frame for a few weeks before repotting and returning the plants to the cool house will benefit them4 ,the ,d4 graminifolia or ,blue ,disa section do not increase by stolons4 ,they are heath plants1 and should be potted in sandy peat1 and kept quite dry when they lose their leaves4 ,epidendrum4--,there are over #djj known species of this genus4 ,e4 vitellinum is a fine orange-coloured1 cool-house species4 ,all may be grown in the intermediate house4 ,e4 ,o',brienianum1 ,e4 radicans1 and ,e4 ,boundii are fine plants for covering the ends of houses and back walls4 ,eria4--,an interesting genus1 comprising many curious1 and some very pretty species4 ,they are epiphytes1 and should be grown in the intermediate house4 ,the deciduous species need to be kept dry when at rest4 ,eriopsis4--,these are epiphytal ,orchids from ,south ,america4 ,they should be grown in the intermediate house1 and they need moisture and shade4 ,e4 biloba and ,e4 rutidobulbon are the best-known species4 ,eulophia4--,a large genus in which both evergreen and terrestrial plants are represented4 ,grow them in the intermediate house4 ,eulophiella4--,the genus includes two species from ,madagascar1 ,e4 ,elisabethae1 white1 and ,e4 ,peetersiana1 rose4 ,grow them in a moist position of the warm house1 giving them a liberal supply of rain-water4 ,galeandra4--,these are deciduous epiphytes1 needing similar cultivation to ,catasetum4 ,gomeza4--,allied to ,odontoglossum4 ,the flowers are yellowish1 and are produced in racemes4 ,intermediate-house plants4 ,gongora4--,intermediate-house ,orchids1 which should be grown in baskets or suspending pans to allow of the full production of their long flower-spikes4 ,grammatophyllum4--,a genus of strong-growing epiphytal ,orchids for the warm house4 ,g4 speciosum is a gigantic ,malayan species4 ,grobya4--,brazilian ,orchids represented by ,g4 galeata and ,g4 ,amherstiae4 ,intermediate house4 ,habenaria4--,terrestrial ,orchids4 ,h4 militaris and ,h4 rhodocheila are bright scarlet2 ,h4 carnea1 flesh colour2 ,h4 ,susannae1 ,h4 ,bonatea1 and ,h4 ,ugandae1 tall-growing1 green and white4 ,the two latter species will grow in a cool house2 the others need greater warmth4 ,the ,north ,american species are nearly hardy1 and may be grown in a frame4 ,houlletia4--,fragrant epiphytal ,orchids from ,south ,america4 ,intermediate house4 ,ionopsis4--,pretty1 slender1 white and lilac species4 ,grow in small baskets in the intermediate house4 ,laelia4--,one of the largest and showiest genera1 great favourites in gardens1 and fine subjects in the hands of the hybridiser4 ,the ,mexican species ,l4 anceps1 ,l4 autumnalis1 ,l4 albida1 c41 used to be allotted a special dryish intermediate house1 but they are now usually grown in the intermediate or ,cattleya house1 and rested in a cooler vinery or corridor4 ,all the species require the same treatment as ,cattleya4 ,liparis4--,a genus of dwarf ,orchids chiefly of botanical interest4 ,intermediate house4 ,lissochilus4--,showy terrestrial ,orchids1 chiefly from ,south and ,tropical ,africa4 ,they should be grown in warm or cool conditions according to their habitats4 ,l4 ,krebsii and ,l4 speciosus are two handsome1 cool-house species2 ,l4 giganteus1 ,l4 ,horsfallii1 and others of this class require a warm house4 ,being marshy plants1 they need weak1 liquid manure when growing4 ,lueddemannia4--,a fine genus of strong1 ,acineta-like growth and pendulous racemes of bronzy-orange coloured flowers4 ,the growths are three to five feet in length4 ,the best species are ,l4 ,lehmannii1 ,l4 ,pescatorei1 and ,l4 triloba4 ,grow in baskets suspended in intermediate house4 ,luisia4--,terete-leafed ,orchids that may be grown in the warm house with the ,aerides4 ,lycaste4--,most of the species thrive in the cool end of the intermediate house4 ,they have been grown successfully in a compost in which decayed leaves formed the principal ingredient1 the remainder being either ,sphagnum-moss1 loam fibre1 or peat1 with a little sand or fine crocks added4 ,in some collections ,l4 ,skinneri and some of the other species are grown in the cool house4 ,all the species require to be kept as cool as possible in summer4 ,masdevallia4--,dwarf1 tufted plants1 with pretty and varied flowers1 from high ranges in ,south ,america4 ,they should be grown in the cool or ,odontoglossum house4 ,pot them in equal proportions of ,sphagnum-moss and peat1 with a little sand and fine crocks4 ,the species of ,m4 chimaera section should be grown in suspending baskets or pans1 and given a rather warmer situation than those of the showier ,m4 ,harryana 7coccinea7 and ,m4 ,veitchiana sections1 being placed in the cool end of the intermediate house in winter4 ,m4 tridactylites1 ,m4 ,o',brieniana1 ,m4 ionocharis1 and many others form an interesting section of dwarf ,orchids1 with singular1 insect-like flowers4 ,the ,masdevallias require to be kept moist all the year1 and are benefited by occasional division when being repotted in spring or late summer4 ,maxillaria4--,an extensive genus1 widely distributed in ,south ,america1 and extending to the ,west ,indies4 ,all the species are intermediate-house plants1 requiring the ordinary potting material for epiphytes4 ,the flowers are varied in form and colour from the white ,m4 grandiflora and ,m4 venusta to the large claret-blotched ,m4 ,sanderiana4 ,many of the species have fragrant flowers4 ,megaclinium4--,a singular genus from ,tropical ,africa1 closely allied to ,bulbophyllum1 their chief characteristic being the singular flat rachis of the inflorescence1 which bears a single row of insect-like1 brownish flowers on each side4 ,m4 ,bufo1 the type species1 is probably not now in gardens4 ,m4 falcatum is the commonest1 and ,m4 purpureorachis1 ,m4 triste1 and several other species are sometimes seen4 ,they should be grown in the warm house in baskets or pans4 ,microstylis4--,the species of ,microstylis should be grown as terrestrial ,orchids in ,sphagnum-moss and peat1 with fine crocks added4 ,rest the deciduous species in dry and cooler conditions4 ,miltonia4--,the ,miltonias are compact-growing ,south ,american epiphytes1 to be grown in pans elevated in a sheltered corner of the intermediate house4 ,pot the plants in ordinary material for epiphytal ,orchids1 and surface the compost with living ,sphagnum-moss4 ,m4 vexillaria1 ,m4 ,roezlii1 ,m4 ,warscewiczii1 formerly included in ,odontoglossum1 form a section requiring to be grown like ,odontoglossums1 but rather warmer4 ,this section has been found to thrive well with a good proportion of leaves in the compost4 ,miltonia vexillaria1 ,empress ,victoria1 is illustrated in ,plate ,,ii4 ,mormodes4--,grow these with the ,catasetum and ,cycnoches1 and treat them similarly by resting them dry4 ,the genus is a singular one1 the curiously formed1 generally fragrant flowers being very attractive4 ,neobenthamia4--,n4 gracilis is an elegant1 white-flowered1 slender species from ,tropical ,africa1 and it should be grown in warm-intermediate temperature4 ,nephelaphyllum4--,dwarf1 terrestrial species for the warm house4 ,grow with ,anoectochilus4 ,notylia4--,graceful epiphytes for baskets and suspending pans4 ,intermediate house4 ,octomeria4--,a genus allied to ,pleurothallis4 ,the flowers are usually white and rather small4 ,odontoglossum4--,the ,odontoglossums are deservedly the most extensively grown genus of cool-house ,orchids1 the larger proportion of those in gardens being represented by ,o4 crispum 7illustrated in ,plate ,,viii471 one of the most beautiful of ,orchids4 ,the spotted forms often realise very high prices4 ,cool1 moist houses are provided for ,o4 crispum and its section of ,odontoglossum2 in some gardens several houses are allotted to the species4 ,given a suitable house and careful treatment1 the ,odontoglossums are among the easiest ,orchids to grow1 and the most certain to flower4 ,all the species generally classed with ,o4 crispum should be grown in well-drained pots4 ,the compost in which they are grown used to be formed exclusively of ,orchid peat and ,sphagnum-moss1 and1 where these materials can be obtained of good quality they have never been improved upon4 ,there came a craze in some collections for putting the ,odontoglossums in leaf-soil1 which ended in disaster1 although it indicated that a proportion of dry leaves 7not leaf-soil7 may be used in the compost with advantage4 ,scarcity of good ,orchid peat brought about the introduction of ,polypodium fibre and ,osmunda fibre1 both excellent materials when prepared as recommended in the chapters on ,potting ,epiphytal ,orchids1 and ,hybrid ,orchids4 ,for the general repotting of those requiring it ,september is the best month1 but in early spring the plants should be examined in order to repot those which need immediate attention4 ,the ,odontoglossum house must be kept cool at all seasons1 and the necessity to have lower night temperatures must be strictly recognised4 ,free ventilation should be provided1 but at all seasons when drying1 east winds prevail1 especially in winter and early spring1 the bottom ventilators should be only opened slightly1 the top ones being kept closed2 the laps of the glass of the roof will admit sufficient air4 ,moisture should be freely distributed about the house by syringing beneath the staging and between the pots in summer1 but in winter the houses1 if kept at the prescribed low temperature1 will be moist without much water being distributed4 ,odontoglossum citrosmum1 ,o4 ,rossii1 ,o4 membranaceum1 and some other ,mexican species should be grown in baskets or pans2 ,o4 coronarium and its varieties in oblong baskets2 ,o4 ,londesboroughianum on rafts4 ,odontoglossums require abundance of water1 but are easily injured if allowed to get soddened4 ,water should therefore be given systematically--a thorough watering1 and no more until the effect of it is passing and the still moist material is sufficiently near the dry point4 ,after flowering1 a lessened supply should also be given for a time1 but the plants must not be dried off4 ,at this stage it is a good time to repot any requiring to be repotted4 ,in the cool houses1 and indeed all the ,orchid houses1 observation should be made as to the rapidity of evaporation of water from the floors and staging4 ,if the moisture evaporates too quickly and the floors and stages become dry rapidly1 it must be remembered that the conditions are not favourable to sustaining the vitality of the plants in the house1 for1 where rapid evaporation takes place1 a similar process affects the tissues of the plants4 ,means should be taken1 either by lowering the temperature or checking the ventilation1 to sustain a lasting humidity in the houses4 ,oncidium4--,this is a large genus1 most of the members being suitable for cultivation in the intermediate house4 ,o4 macranthum is a cool-house plant1 and ,o4 crispum1 ,o4 ,forbesii1 ,o4 concolor1 ,o4 ,marshallianum 7illustrated in ,plate ,,vii471 ,o4 varicosum1 and others also do well in the cool house in baskets or suspended pans4 ,o4 ,papilio1 ,o4 ,kramerianum1 ,o4 ,lanceanum1 and ,o4 ampliatum should have a position in the warmest end of the intermediate house4 ,pot the plants as epiphytal ,orchids4 ,withhold water for a time after growth is completed4 ,paphinia4--,small-growing epiphytes4 ,grow in baskets or pans in a warm1 moist house4 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,,viii ,,odontoglossum ,,crispum ,phaius4--,strong-growing1 terrestrial ,orchids for the intermediate house4 ,pot them according to the directions in the chapter on the potting of terrestrial ,orchids4 ,the species are evergreen1 and require but a short resting season4 ,they require shade4 ,phalaenopsis4--,these are warm-house species from the ,philippines1 ,java1 ,borneo1 ,india1 and other places4 ,pot the plants in ,sphagnum-moss4 ,they succeed best when suspended1 but if they are grown on the stage they should be elevated on inverted pots4 ,a moist atmosphere is essential4 ,p4 amabilis ,rimestadiana will grow in the intermediate house2 so will also most of the other species1 if placed in a moist corner4 ,peristeria4--,the genus is best known in gardens by ,p4 elata 7,dove ,orchid74 ,the cultivation is similar to that for ,phaius4 ,physosiphon4--,a small genus allied to ,stelis4 ,p4 ,loddigesii has racemes of orange-coloured flowers4 ,platyclinis4--,these are pretty1 intermediate-house ,orchids1 with pendulous racemes of white or yellow flowers1 generally fragrant4 ,pleione4 ,see ,coelogyne4 ,pleurothallis4--,a large genus of elegant1 dwarf-growing ,orchids for the intermediate house4 ,promenaea4 ,see ,zygopetalum4 ,renanthera4--,these showy species are natives of ,tropical ,asia and ,malaya4 ,they should be grown like ,aerides and ,vandas4 ,r4 ,imschootiana is a compact1 free-growing species1 with showy1 crimson flowers4 ,restrepia4--,a cool-house genus usually grown with the ,masdevallias1 and requiring similar treatment4 ,rodriguezia4--,this genus includes the species usually called ,burlingtonia in gardens4 ,suspend the plants in the intermediate house4 ,r4 secunda has rose-coloured flowers2 most of the others are white1 and they are generally fragrant4 ,rhyncostylis4--,these are warm-house plants1 which are known usually as ,saccolabiums in gardens4 ,the commoner species is ,r4 retusa1 with fine racemes of blush-white flowers1 spotted with purple2 and the blue ,r4 coelestis4 ,the cultivation is similar to ,aerides4 ,saccolabium4--,the ,saccolabiums should be grown in a warm house like ,aerides4 ,s4 bigibbum and others of its class are pretty1 dwarf species1 with yellowish flowers spotted with purple and having a white lip4 ,sarcanthus4--,allied to ,saccolabium1 and having similar cultural requirements4 ,sarcochilus4--,the species of ,sarcochilus need to be grown in ,sphagnum-moss in the intermediate house4 ,satyrium4--,terrestrial ,orchids chiefly from ,south ,africa1 needing greenhouse treatment4 ,the plants must be kept dry during the resting period4 ,schomburgkia4--,a strong-growing genus1 requiring similar treatment to ,laelias and ,cattleyas4 ,the best position for them is a sunny situation in the intermediate house4 ,scuticaria4--,the ,scuticarias are handsome1 bulbless species1 with long1 terete1 pendulous leaves1 and showy1 yellowish flowers1 blotched with purple4 ,they should be grown on rafts1 or in baskets suspended in the intermediate house4 ,selenipedium4 ,see ,cypripedium4 ,sobralia4--,the species of ,sobralia are strong-growing1 terrestrial ,orchids with reed-like stems1 requiring abundance of water during the period of growth4 ,intermediate house4 ,s4 macrantha and its white variety are best known4 ,sophronitis4--,a dwarf genus1 best known by ,s4 grandiflora1 which has scarlet flowers1 and has been used for crossing with ,laelias and ,cattleyas4 ,all the species are cool-house plants1 needing cultivation in pans or baskets suspended from the roof4 ,the hybrids succeed best in the intermediate house4 ,spathoglottis4--,terrestrial ,orchids of similar growth to ,bletia1 requiring a pronounced resting period4 ,intermediate house4 ,rest dry4 ,stanhopea4--,a fine genus1 with large1 pendulous1 wax-like flowers of aromatic odour4 ,they should be grown in baskets in the intermediate house4 ,rest rather dry in a cool house or vinery4 ,stauropsis4--,stauropsis should be grown with ,aerides and ,vandas4 ,the genus is best known in gardens by ,s4 lissochiloides 7,vanda ,batemanii7 and ,s4 gigantea4 ,stelis4--,the plants in this genus possess similar growth to the dwarf ,pleurothallis1 and require the same treatment4 ,stenoglottis4--,s4 fimbriata and ,s4 longifolia are ,south ,african terrestrial ,orchids1 needing similar conditions to ,disa4 ,tetramicra 7,leptotes74--,dwarf species with white flowers1 having rose labellums4 ,intermediate house4 ,thunia4--,a section of ,phaius with erect1 terete stems and deciduous leaves4 ,grow them in a warm and moist house1 but keep them cool and dry during the resting period4 ,trichocentrum4--,dwarf1 evergreen ,south ,american ,orchids4 ,grow in pans suspended in a shady part of the intermediate house4 ,trichopilia4--,an ornamental1 epiphytal genus1 including ,pilumna1 the white1 fragrant ,t4 fragrans1 and its variety nobilis1 representing that section4 ,t4 suavis is one of the showiest species4 ,all are worthy of a place in collections4 ,intermediate house4 ,trichosma4--,trichosma suavis is a pretty1 cool-house species1 with white1 fragrant flowers4 ,trigonidium4--,there are several curious species of ,trigonidium1 with the sepals usually developed and arranged differently to ,orchids generally4 ,intermediate house4 ,vanda4--,the genus is one of the largest and most interesting1 and1 like the other large genera1 it may be divided into several sections4 ,the largest-growing and best-known species are ,v4 tricolor and ,v4 suavis1 which have white or yellowish flowers1 spotted with purple1 and without any distinguishing botanical feature between them4 ,v4 coerulea is one of the finest blue ,orchids2 ,v4 ,sanderiana one of the handsomest2 ,v4 insignis1 ,v4 lamellata1 ,v4 ,denisoniana1 ,v4 limbata1 and ,v4 ,bensonii are all desirable kinds4 ,v4 ,kimballiana1 ,v4 ,amesiana1 and ,v4 ,watsonii form a distinct section1 with fleshy leaves and erect spikes of pretty1 white flowers1 marked with rose in the two first1 and requiring to be grown1 where possible1 in baskets suspended in the intermediate house4 ,v4 teres1 ,v4 ,hookeriana1 and their hybrid ,v4 ,miss ,joaquim1 have erect stems1 bearing terete leaves1 and fine1 rose-coloured flowers4 ,v4 alpina1 ,v4 cristata1 and ,v4 pumila are pretty1 dwarf species4 ,all are generally grown together in the warm or ,east ,indian house1 but it is an open question whether the keeping of these plants and the ,aerides and ,saccolabiums continuously in the same house is not the cause of the unsatisfactory condition of many of them in gardens4 ,each section should be watched1 and1 when growth is completed1 a change should be given to a cool1 intermediate house for a couple of months4 ,aerides1 ,vandas1 and ,saccolabiums suffer most from being kept too hot and close in winter4 ,after spring opens the amount of heat and moisture should be gradually increased4 ,directly they have flowered1 the tall plants which have lost their bottom leaves should be lowered in the pots or baskets by being cut off at the base4 ,dwarf-growing species should be brought well up to the light4 ,v4 coerulea grows well under the most dissimilar conditions1 and with it1 as with many other ,orchids1 there is more in finding a suitable place than in growing the plant4 ,all require to be potted or basketed in ,sphagnum-moss4 ,some growers add a sprinkling of leaves4 ,the ,v4 teres section may be planted in ,sphagnum-moss in a warm corner of the house1 or against the end of the house4 ,if grown in pots1 three or four should be potted together and trained to a stout stick or teak rod4 ,zygopetalum4--,under ,zygopetalum1 several distinct sub-genera are included4 ,the largest-growing and showiest species include ,z4 ,mackayi1 ,z4 crinitum1 and other related species4 ,these should be potted in peat1 ,sphagnum-moss1 and loam fibre in equal proportions1 with a sprinkling of leaves1 and fine broken crocks added4 ,during the growing season occasional waterings with weak1 liquid manure should be given2 and1 after flowering1 a rest with restricted water supply4 ,those that need repotting should be attended to before growth begins1 but they will remain satisfactory for years in the same pots if carefully treated4 ,there are many hybrids1 especially of ,z4 maxillare1 which should be treated like the species4 ,z4 rostratum requires a warm1 moist house4 ,the ,promenaeas include ,p4 stapelioides1 ,p4 ,rollissoni1 and ,p4 xanthina4 ,these should be grown in shallow pans1 either for suspending or placing on a shelf near the glass of the roof4 ,bollea1 ,huntleya1 ,pescatorea1 ,batemannia1 and ,warscewiczella4--,these are sectional names for a leafy class1 with rudimentary pseudo-bulbs4 ,they are frequently mismanaged4 ,the plants should be grown in the potting materials recommended for epiphytal ,orchids1 and surfaced with ,sphagnum-moss4 ,being evergreen1 and with no superabundant vitality1 they should be kept moist all the year1 but liberally watered when growing4 ,a moist corner of the intermediate house1 or warm house1 should be selected for them1 each plant being raised on an inverted pan or pot4 ,when grown in the warm house1 a rest should be given in a cooler house after growth is completed1 but the plants must not be dried off4 ,they may be propagated by division4 ,all require shade4 ,botanically they are placed under ,zygopetalum4 ,,chapter ,,xxi ,,orchid ,,hybrids ,it is impossible to enumerate the immense number of home-raised hybrids in the scope of this book4 ,it must therefore suffice to name some of the principal genera which have been crossed1 and a few of the best hybrids1 from the garden point of view4 ,too much cannot be said for the absorbing interest of raising hybrid ,orchids1 which is referred to at length on p4 #fg4 ,brassavola ,digbyana has been one of the most satisfactory parents1 crossing readily with ,cattleya and ,laelia1 and imparting to the hybrids its large flowers and fringed lip4 ,b4 glauca has also been useful4 ,brasso-,cattleya ,digbyano-,mossiae1 ,westonbirt ,variety1 is illustrated in ,plate ,v4 ,calanthes have been wonderfully improved1 so far as the deciduous1 winter-flowering kinds are concerned1 by intercrossing1 commencing with ,c4 ,veitchii 7rosea x vestita7 and now including all shades from pure white to blood-red4 ,cattleya1 ,laelia1 ,sophronitis1 and ,brassavola have produced by intercrossing numerous showy garden plants1 some of them1 as for example ,c4 ,iris 7,c4 bicolor x ,c4 ,dowiana7 and ,laelio-,cattleya callistoglossa 7,c4 ,warscewiczii x ,l4 purpurata71 exhibiting great variation in the colour of their beautiful flowers4 ,cymbidium has been enriched by the hybridist1 the section ,cyperorchis being merged in true ,cymbidium4 ,cymbidium ,lowio-eburneum is illustrated in ,plate ,,vi4 ,dendrobium hybrids are among the most numerous and useful as decorative flowers4 ,epidendrum has produced some satisfactory results1 including ,e4 ,o',brienianum and ,epiphronitis ,veitchii 7,sophronitis grandiflora x ,epidendrum radicans74 ,cypripedium has been so prolific that there are amateurs who cultivate them either exclusively or give the greater part of their accommodation to the genus and its hybrids1 which may be numbered by the hundred4 ,species of ,masdevallia1 ,odontoglossum1 ,lycaste1 ,phaius1 and ,zygopetalum have all been intercrossed1 and the number of possible combinations admits of incalculable development1 especially as the crossing is not confined to the same genus4 ,plants of distinct genera have been crossed with each other1 and in many cases the results have been unexpectedly good1 as for example the pretty1 scarlet ,cochlioda ,noezliana1 which has been crossed successfully with several genera4 ,such facts as these seem to indicate that there are but few combinations amongst the genera of ,orchideae cross-breeders may not attempt with a reasonable hope of success4 ,,index ,acanthophippium1 #ha ,acineta1 #ha ,acropera1 #hb ,adapting ordinary plant-house for ,orchid culture1 #ai ,aeranthus1 #hc ,aerides1 #hb ,aganisia1 #hc ,angraecum1 #hc ,anguloa1 #hd ,anoectochilus1 #hd ,ansellia1 #he ,apostasieae1 #f ,arachnanthe1 #he ,barkeria1 #hf ,bartholina1 #hf ,baskets and pots1 culture in1 #bd ,batemannia and ,bollea1 #hf1 #ajh ,bifrenaria1 #hf ,bollea1 #ajh ,brassavola1 #hf ,brassia1 #hf ,brasso-,cattleya ,digbyano-,mossiae 7,plate ,v47 ,broughtonia1 #hf ,bulbophyllum1 #hf ,calanthe1 #hg ,calanthe ,dominyi1 the first ,orchid hybrid1 #e1 #fg ,calanthes1 deciduous1 #ch ,catasetum1 #hg ,cattleya1 #hg ,cattleya ,trianae1 var4 ,hydra 7,plate ,,iv47 ,cattleya fly1 the1 #dh ,chysis1 #hh ,cirrhaea1 #hh ,cirrhopetalum1 #hh ,cochlioda1 #hh ,cochlioda noezliana crosses1 #aaj ,cockroaches1 how to entrap1 #ej ,coelia1 #hh ,coelogyne1 #hh ,colax1 #ia ,collecting wild ,orchids1 #fj ,comparettia1 #hh ,compost for seedlings1 #gf-hj ,conservatory1 species for the1 #eb ,coryanthes1 #ia ,cut flowers1 to preserve1 #ef ,cycnoches1 #ia ,cymbidium1 #ia ,cymbidium ,lowio-eburneum 7,plate ,,vi47 ,cymbidiums for the conservatory1 #ed ,cynorchis1 #ia ,cypripedium1 #ia ,cypripedium insigne ,sanderae 7,frontispiece7 ,cypripediums1 structure of1 #f ,cypripediums for the conservatory1 #eh ,cyrtopodium1 #ib ,dendrobium1 #ib ,dendrobium ,wardianum 7,plate ,,iii47 ,dendrobium from cuttings1 #ce ,diacrium1 #ic ,difficulties to overcome1 #h ,disa1 #ic ,diseases and ,insect ,pests1 #dg ,dossinia marmorata1 #hd ,durability of ,orchid flowers1 #ef ,enumeration of ,principal ,genera1 #ha ,epidendrum1 #id ,epidendrum ,boundii1 #aji ,epidendrum ,o',brienianum1 #aji ,epiphronitis ,veitchii1 #aji ,eria1 #id ,eriopsis1 #id ,eulophia1 #id ,eulophiella1 #id ,evaporation from lower stage1 #ae ,evaporation1 test1 #ajj ,fertilising ,orchids1 #fh ,floor of natural earth1 #i1 #ae ,floor of wood trellis1 #i ,galeandra1 #ie ,genera and ,species1 #ha ,glazing1 #aa ,gomeza1 #id ,gongora1 #ie ,goodyera ,dawsoniana1 #he ,grammatophyllum1 #ie ,grobya1 #ie ,habenaria1 #ie ,haemaria discolor1 #hd ,heating ,orchid houses1 #af ,hot-water piping1 #af ,houlletia1 #ie ,huntleya1 #ajh ,hybridising and raising seedlings1 #fg ,importing of ,orchids1 #ei ,insecticides1 #dh1 #di ,introduction1 #a ,ionopsis1 #ie ,label1 the best form of1 #ca ,labelling the plants1 #cj ,laelia1 #ie ,leaves1 removal of damaged1 #cb ,leaves1 use of1 in potting compost1 #bd1 #hj1 #ii ,leptotes1 #aje ,liparis1 #if ,liquid manure1 #dc ,lissochilus1 #if ,listrostachys1 #hc ,lueddemannia1 #if ,luisia1 #if ,lycaste1 #if ,macodes ,petola1 #hd ,manures for ,orchids1 #ci ,masdevallia1 #if ,maxillaria1 #ig ,megaclinium1 #ig ,metal injurious1 #bi ,microstylis1 #ig ,miltonia1 #ig ,miltonia vexillaria 7,plate ,,ii47 ,mormodes1 #ih ,mystacidium1 #hc ,neobenthamia1 #ih ,nephelaphyllum1 #ih ,night temperatures1 #ag1 #ah ,notylia1 #ih ,octomeria1 #ih ,odontoglossum1 #ih ,odontoglossum crispum 7,plate ,,viii47 ,odontoglossum1 potting of1 #ii ,odontoglossum seedlings1 #ga-gh ,odours of ,orchids1 #fe ,oncidium1 #ajj ,oncidium ,marshallianum 7,plate ,,vii47 ,orchid-collecting1 #ajh ,orchid flowers1 structure of1 #f ,orchid house1 structure of1 #i ,orchid house1 the single1 #ai ,orchid hybrids1 #ajh ,orchid1 the first hybrid1 #e ,orchids as cut flowers1 #ee ,orchids for baskets1 #bg ,orchids for the conservatory1 #eb ,orchids for pans1 #bg ,orchids for villa conservatory1 #ec ,orchids1 suspending of1 #bg ,orchids1 the earliest introductions of1 #c1 #d1 #e ,osmunda fibre1 #bc1 #hj1 #ii ,packing1 systems of1 #fa ,painting interior of houses1 #aa ,paphinia1 #ajj ,paraffin1 need for avoiding use of1 #di ,paths1 methods of making1 #i ,periodical inspection of plants1 #ej ,peristeria1 #ajc ,pescatorea1 #ajh ,phaius1 #ajj ,phalaenopsis1 #ajc ,physosiphon1 #ajc ,plant-houses adapted for ,orchids1 #ab-ai ,platyclinis1 #ajc ,pleione1 #ajc ,pleurothallis1 #ajc ,potting and basketing1 methods of1 #bb ,potting material for hybrids1 #gi ,potting1 old-time system of1 #c ,promenaea1 #ajc1 #ajh ,propagation by division1 #ce ,rain-water1 the value of1 #ce ,raising seedling ,orchids1 #fg ,renanthera1 #ajc ,resting season1 the1 #cg1 #dd ,restrepia1 #ajc ,rhyncostylis1 #ajd ,rise of ,orchid culture1 #c ,rockeries in ,orchid house1 #aj ,rodriguezia1 #ajc ,saccolabium1 #ajd ,sarcanthus1 #ajd ,sarcochilus1 #ajd ,satyrium1 #ajd ,scale insects1 #di ,schomburgkia1 #ajd ,scuticaria1 #ajd ,seed-raising1 case for1 #gb-ge ,seed-sowing1 #gj ,seed-storing1 #afi ,seedlings1 damping off1 #gg ,seedlings in subdued light1 #gh ,seedlings1 affording water to1 #gb ,seeds1 ,orchid1 #fi ,selection of subjects for cross-fertilisation1 #gi ,selenipedium1 #ib1 #ajd ,shading1 #ba ,shading of houses containing seedlings1 #gh ,slugs and woodlice1 #ej ,sobralia1 #ajd ,sophronitis1 #ajd ,spathoglottis1 #aje ,spraying the plants1 #cg1 #gb ,staging for the plants1 #ab ,staking or fixing plants1 #bh ,stanhopea1 #aje ,stauropsis1 #aje ,stelis1 #aje ,stenoglottis1 #aje ,structure of the flowers1 #f1 #fg ,structure of ,orchid house1 #i ,syringing1 the need for1 #cg ,tanks for storing water1 #i ,tar1 injurious effects of1 #ea ,tetramicra1 #aje ,temperatures1 #ag-bj ,terrestrial species1 packing of1 #fb ,thrips1 destructiveness of1 #dh ,thunia1 #aje ,treatment of imported plants1 #fc ,trichocentrum1 #aje ,trichopilia1 #aje ,trichosma1 #ajf ,trigonidium1 #ajf ,useless leaves and pseudo-bulbs1 removal of1 #ca ,vanda1 #ajf ,vanda ,batemanii1 #aje ,ventilation1 #i ,warscewiczella1 #ajh ,watering epiphytal species1 #ce ,watering terrestrial species1 #ch ,wire injurious to the plants1 #bi ,zygopetalum1 #ajg ,zygopetalum1 sections of1 #ajh ,,the ,,end ,printed by ,,ballantyne1 ,,hanson ,,co4 ,edinburgh ,london