,libraries47 ,raising ,p4 ,v4 ,squabs for ,profit ,,john ,s4 ,,trecartin ,caldwell ,new ,jersey ,,raising ,p4 ,v4 ,,squabs ,,for ,,profit ,by ,,john ,s4 ,,trecartin ,a ,manual of ,instruction from ,my ,personal ,experience in ,building1 ,stocking and ,managing the ,largest ,successful ,squab ,plant in ,new ,jersey ,tells how we market squabs for twelve dollars per dozen1 wholesale4 ,details of necessary requirements for a successful business4 ,how to house1 feed1 market and care for pigeons4 ,importance of good foundation stock4 ,profits and how secured4 ,,copyright #aibj1 ,,john ,s4 ,,trecartin4 ,,caldwell1 ,n4,j4 ,,contents ,page ,introduction #c ,,chapter ,i4 ,is ,there ,profit in ,raising ,squabs8 #e ,,chapter ,,ii4 ,description of ,passaic ,valley ,squab ,farm and ,housing in ,general #g ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,the ,fundamental ,requirements for ,successful ,squab ,raising #aj ,,chapter ,,iv4 ,the ,utility ,pigeon #ag ,,chapter ,v4 ,habits and ,peculiarities #bj ,,chapter ,,vi4 ,squabs for ,market #bd ,,chapter ,,vii4 ,selecting ,breeders #bh ,,introduction ,the squab business in ,america has too long been looked upon as a pastime and game for children's amusement4 ,raising squabs is not child's play1 but a real scientific business with unlimited possibilities for development4 ,success in this business as in any other1 depends largely on a proper start4 ,in the following pages ,i will endeavor to present with great simplicity the right way to start in the squab business and the results ,i have obtained in raising squabs for market4 ,the information contained herein1 may1 ,i trust1 be of as much benefit to the reader as it is my pleasure to impart4 ,,john ,s4 ,,trecartin4 ,illustration3 ,,passaic ,,valley ,,squab ,,farm1 ,,caldwell1 ,n4,j4 ,,chapter ,i4 ,,is ,,there ,,profit ,,in ,,raising ,,squabs8 ,of the question of profit in squab raising1 there is no doubt4 ,squabs are coming into use more and more every day1 not only as a delicacy for invalids1 but also for hotels1 restaurants1 catering establishments1 and household use4 ,the first question is naturally of the market for them4 ,the ,hebrews1 who entertain lavishly1 are among our largest customers4 ,they buy the squabs alive1 as their poultry has to be prepared according to the ,jewish ,dietary ,laws4 ,the hotels in all large cities use enormous quantities of squabs1 and we have had to freeze large quantities for them in the summer in the past few years1 so as to insure them a steady supply through the winter months4 ,we have frozen as high as #e1jjj squabs for a single hotel in one year1 and now we make a practice of always keeping a reserve of frozen squabs1 to meet the winter demands4 ,the prices of squabs are for the most part regulated by the large cities in the vicinity4 ,commission merchants are always anxious to buy in any quantity and they send out weekly quotations as to what they are paying for squabs4 ,the prices to butchers1 hotels1 and consumers of all classes1 are based on these quotations and naturally the direct sale to the consumer1 cutting out the commission man1 commands a much higher price4 ,the following table is made up of the quotations ,conron ,bros41 ,new ,york ,city1 paid for squabs during the first week in ,january in the following years3-- #aiab ,squabs weighing #i lbs4 to the dozen #d4ge #aiac #i lbs4 #d4ge #aiad #i lbs4 #d4ge #aiaf #i lbs4 #e4ej #aiai #i lbs4 #i4be #aibj #i lbs4 #aa4jj ,squabs are graded according to the weight of one dozen4 ,that is1 one dozen squabs weighing twelve ounces each1 would weigh nine pounds to the dozen4 ,we have taken that weight squab as a basis1 as that is the average weight squab produced from good breeders4 ,the cost of raising squabs depends entirely on the price of feed and the number of squabs produced during a given period4 ,before the war1 it cost #a4be a year for feed for one pair of pigeons4 ,at present1 the cost per pair for feed is #c4jj1 according to our records4 ,now1 how many squabs will a pair of pigeons produce in a year8 ,that question we cannot answer1 but we know how many squabs we have produced from our breeders4 ,in #aiai1 we raised an average of #ad4c squabs per pair1 for our entire plant4 ,our average pen production ran from #aj to #af squabs per pair a year1 and as we always select our breeders for their fast breeding qualities and plump squab1 we fully expect to average #ae squabs per pair in #aibj4 ,considering the useful breeding life of a pigeon1 which continues for five years1 the question of profit in raising squabs should answer itself4 ,the selecting of breeders will be treated in full1 further in the book4 ,,chapter ,,ii4 ,,description ,,of ,,passaic ,,valley ,,squab ,,farm ,,and ,,housing ,,in ,,general4 ,the ,passaic ,valley ,squab ,farm1 ,i feel1 is an ideal plant in an ideal location4 ,it embodies all the best points and has few detriments4 ,i am going to describe it rather carefully1 pointing out its advantages and how it might be improved upon4 ,the diagram will give a general idea of the floor plan1 and photo in beginning of book gives a view of entire plant and water tower4 ,the plant is situated in a valley1 protected from the full sweep of the wind4 ,the buildings cover about one acre of land and consist of #hf pens combined into one large connecting building4 7,a7 is granary and stock house4 7,b7 is picking and packing room4 7,c7 is office4 ,the granary has entrance to sections #a1 #b1 #c and #d1 by halls4 ,each section is divided into #bj pens1 each #aj feet by #ab feet1 with entrance on hall4 ,each pen has its own aviary1 #aj feet by #bj feet1 for the pigeons to exercise4 ,the pigeons nest and raise their young inside1 but bathe and exercise outside1 where they have running water4 ,each pen accommodates #ej pairs of pigeons1 so the plant capacity is over #h1jjj birds4 ,water is supplied by an artesian well and electric driven pump1 that pumps to tower shown in picture4 ,each section is watered by one pipe running full length of building and perforated at each pen4 ,the pan at each pen fills and when full runs down an overflow pipe into a drain under building4 ,in this way a whole section of #bj pens is watered with one shut-off and the supply is always fresh4 ,all pipes in this system slope to one low point1 so that even in zero weather1 we can water and drain the pipes without difficulty4 ,the bathing system is worked on the same plan in the aviaries1 but we disconnect this part of the system in the extreme weather4 ,the entire plant is raised about #ah inches off the ground at all points1 as a protection against rats4 ,all entrances have heavy screen doors as well as wooden ones1 which work with weights to always keep them shut4 ,in this way1 rats are kept out1 and any pigeons which may get loose inside the halls1 are always caught4 ,rats are the greatest menace to successful squab raising and too great precautions cannot be taken4 ,illustration3 ,,diagram ,,of ,,passaic ,,valley ,,squab ,,farm ,you will note on looking over diagram of plant that sections #a1 #b1 #c and #d are connected by granary only4 ,this feature could be considerably improved by a hall connecting the four sections at the other end4 ,then again1 there are no windows on the north side of all four sections1 and although this was done to keep out cold1 it could be improved with a few windows for greater light4 ,altogether ,i feel that the plant is as near to a model plant as can be found1 and being within #bj miles of ,new ,york ,city and eight miles of ,newark1 the best markets are always available4 ,i am not describing this plant to discourage any one starting in a small way in a back yard1 barn1 or outhouse2 but ,i wish to show the possibilities within the grasp of any one to establish a real profitable business of his own4 ,in the next chapter1 ,i will handle the situation from the beginner's standpoint4 ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,,the ,,fundamental ,,requirements ,,for ,,successful ,,squab ,,raising4 ,good squabs can be raised in any structure1 free from dampness1 that has sunlight and can be protected from rats4 ,any shed1 outbuilding1 or chicken coop can be turned into a first-class pigeon pen with little difficulty4 ,first1 the building must be made habitable by patching all cracks and leaks in roof4 ,if the locality is subject to cold wind1 snow and ice1 attention must be given to sides and floors4 ,the floors1 particularly1 should have no holes1 and double floors are a decided asset for the northern breeder4 ,making the house rat-proof1 is very important1 and the best method ,i know is to raise the building on posts1 not less than #ae inches from the ground at all points4 ,line the posts with tin or put a can over the top1 as is done with corn cribs1 and you will be well protected4 ,a window must now be put in the southern side of house to allow the pigeons to reach the flying pen or aviary4 ,the door also must be tight1 and it is safest to have a screen door on the inside1 with a spring to always keep it in place4 ,if this is lined with one-half-inch mesh wire1 it will serve as a protection from rats1 and allow for good ventilation4 ,equipping the house is easily and cheaply accomplished by the use of egg crates turned on the side1 with opening facing out4 ,these should have a three-inch strip nailed across front at bottom of crate1 to keep the squabs and eggs from falling out1 or better still1 make an inside rectangle of three-inch lumber that just fits inside the crate4 ,by this1 ,i mean a draw three inches high and eleven and one-half inches in width and length1 but without a bottom1 as the lower side of the crate completes the bottom4 ,illustration3 ,figure #c4 ,,crate ,,in ,,position ,,and ,,nest ,with this draw in place1 the squabs are protected with a three-inch partition in front1 and to clean1 simply pull the draw out and have a basket beneath to catch the nest in4 ,in making the so-called draw1 care should be taken to cut two pieces eleven-and-one-half inches and two ten-and-one-half inches4 ,the eleven-and-one-half-inch pieces are to run all the way to the rear of box1 and the shorter pieces comprise the front and rear pieces4 ,the longer pieces overlap the front and rear pieces and are nailed securely4 ,by having the front and rear pieces short and the side pieces long1 the draw will always pull out without breaking4 ,if made the other way1 the nails may pull out when you clean house4 ,the ten-and-one-half-inch pieces are figured on the basis of using lumber that is five-eighths-inch in thickness4 ,figure ,no4 #c shows crate in position and nest ready to put in place4 ,one pair of pigeons uses both sides of one egg crate as they like to alternate in breeding4 ,sometimes they have squabs in one side and commence a nest in the other side4 ,by the time the squabs are three weeks' old1 there will often be eggs in the other side of box4 ,after crates and nests are ready1 arrange in east and west side of pen1 piling as high as necessary to accommodate the number of pairs4 ,the north side of house may also be used for nest boxes1 or1 if the east and west sides of house are piled near the roof1 it is well to have a landing board or perch on the north end4 ,a shelf should always be put above the southern window and two openings cut through the side1 to let the birds into the aviary1 when the window is closed4 ,outside1 there must also be a corresponding shelf for the pigeons4 ,one hole is not sufficient1 as a cock bird will often block the one opening and keep other birds off their eggs until they are chilled4 ,to complete the inside equipment1 you need a drinking fountain or pan1 so protected that the pigeons can only put their heads into the water4 ,a small box will do for grit and this should be placed near the floor in a clean spot1 protected from all droppings4 ,the feed1 ,i believe1 is best handled by spreading in a long1 narrow trough about one-and-one-half inches high and long enough so that all the pigeons can get a chance at the food at the same time4 ,in a pen of #ej pairs1 this is not practical1 but ,i have the trough six feet long1 ten inches wide1 and two inches deep1 for a large number like this4 ,illustration3 ,figure #d4 ,,one ,,of ,,our ,,aviaries ,the aviaries1 except for being on the southern side of building1 can vary according to available space and number of birds4 ,pigeons1 for best results in housing1 should never be crowded into less than one square foot to a bird and one-and-one-half or two square feet is best4 ,the aviaries should have two to three square feet to a bird and should be from six to ten feet in height4 ,our pens are #aj by #ab feet inside and #aj by #bj by #aj outside4 ,these pens accommodate #dj to #ej pairs comfortably4 ,two-inch mesh wire is all that is required1 although some breeders use one-inch mesh4 ,in ordering wire1 specify galvanized after weaving1 or galvanized before and after4 ,it pays to do this1 as good wire lasts eight or nine years4 ,the posts or uprights for aviary should be two by four lumber with the sunken end well tarred1 or any fairly heavy posts available4 ,if the fly is to accommodate more than five or ten pairs of pigeons1 nothing smaller than two by four should be used in the frame work1 provided that the winters are severe4 ,a heavy snow will sometimes hold on the wire1 and is apt to break the supports and release the birds4 ,particularly watch the fastening of your wire to the coop along the top edge4 ,the outside equipment consists of a bathing pan about #bd to #cf inches in diameter and four to six inches in depth4 ,a door should be provided in aviary and a few perches or landing boards1 along the sides4 ,this1 ,i believe1 completes the necessary house to make a successful start1 and the only exceptions ,i would make are for the breeders in warm climates1 who can best be advised to follow the example of neighboring chicken and pigeon raisers4 ,in southern ,california1 ,i saw fine squabs raised with a northeastern exposure1 no floors1 and only a three-sided shed4 ,here one side was open entirely and nest boxes were built high enough to protect from rats4 ,the aviaries were constructed of slats instead of wire1 so as to furnish greater protection4 ,in ,jacksonville1 ,fla41 ,i went through a large plant very similar in construction to the northern breeders1 and the feeding was about the same as mine4 ,each locality has a few distinguishing features1 so if you combine these instructions with a little observation and thought1 you cannot go far wrong as to proper housing4 ,in the next chapter ,i will deal with the breeders1 and it cannot too often be said1 that no matter how fine the plant and equipment1 it will all be wasted unless you start with foundation stock1 that has been scientifically perfected4 ,,chapter ,,iv4 ,,the ,,utility ,,pigeon4 ,from my experience in true utility breeding1 or squab breeding for market1 there is one basic bird that stands for hardy1 plump1 even-sized squabs1 and plenty of them4 ,that bird is the homing pigeon4 ,the homer will breed more squabs in a year and use less feed1 per pair1 a year1 than any bird ,i have ever handled4 ,the birds are very hardy1 can stand extreme cold and breed well through the winter months4 ,unfortunately1 even these birds have a slight failing4 ,the true homer breeds a squab a little small for the best market price4 ,the squabs run six1 seven and eight pounds to the dozen1 and the best demand is for eight1 nine and ten pounds to the dozen squabs4 ,we experimented carefully with many of the larger breed of birds1 but they all had a failing1 some would breed well in summer1 but not in winter2 some ate too much for the number of squabs produced2 some would breed one large squab and the other very thin2 and some would breed nice twelve-pound squabs1 but we could not get a proportionately high price for them to warrant the extra food required and extra time required for them to mature4 ,after seven years of experimenting1 we believe we have now the best utility bird in the country1 namely the ,p4 ,v4 ,special ,homer4 ,these birds breed squabs the marketable size3 eight1 nine and ten pounds to the dozen4 ,less than #ae per cent4 ran under eight pounds to the dozen last year4 ,they breed plump1 broad-breasted squabs and do not eat more than the average homer4 ,the squabs are ready for market in four weeks from the time hatched1 and if kept for breeding1 they commence mating in three months2 being one of the quickest birds to mature4 ,a small start with good birds is the foundation of success4 ,a fine flock can be built up from a few good pairs1 but poor stock will soon discourage anyone and do harm to the business4 ,next to ,p4 ,v4 ,homers1 we believe the ,p4 ,v4 ,carneaux are the best4 ,these birds breed a nine1 ten1 eleven and twelve pound to the dozen squab1 and always a beautifully-shaped and white-meated squab4 ,of course1 these fine1 large birds will eat more than homers and the squabs will take a little longer to mature1 but if you are in a locality to command a high price or sell them retail1 you cannot go wrong in having a few pairs4 ,these birds are particularly tame and can easily be made into pets4 ,i believe firmly1 that for profitable squab raising these two breeds of pigeons are decidedly the best choice1 although there are other good birds for squab raising1 such as ,mondaines1 ,royal ,whites1 ,white ,kings1 and ,maltese ,hen ,pigeons4 ,we have most of these birds for show purposes1 but we will not go into detail1 as we feel that ,p4 ,v4 ,homers and ,carneaux are really the best utility breeders4 ,a word of caution might well be put in here against buying cheap birds4 ,they are never worth any more than you will pay for them1 and many are only fit for eating purposes along with common pigeons4 ,our method of shipping birds enables them to arrive in first-class condition over very long distances4 ,the birds are packed in strong1 light cases with a partition to separate the males and females4 ,a bag of feed and drinking cup go with each case4 ,instructions are sent with each order for feeding and watering while in transit4 ,your attention must now be given to preparing the pen for the pigeons3-- ,close all openings into the aviary and see that the drinking pan or fountain is filled with fresh water4 ,shake a few tobacco stems loosely in a pile under the window or else in a corner4 ,the grit box should be half filled with a good prepared pigeon grit2 ,red ,cross grit is as good as any and contains all the necessary ingredients for the birds4 ,a little feed should now be put in trough4 ,a small handful for each pair1 is sufficient at first4 ,you are now ready to release the birds4 ,the males are marked with a color band on the right leg and the females on the left leg4 ,keep a record as you let the birds go to see that each male has a female with a corresponding band4 ,that is1 a male bird with a blue band on the right leg must have a female also with a blue band on the left leg4 ,the next chapter will explain the habits of the birds and why they are banded4 ,,chapter ,v4 ,,habits ,,and ,,peculiarities4 ,in the first place1 pigeons are monogamous4 ,they must always be kept in even pairs1 because they select their mate and very seldom ever change1 unless forced to select another mate in a mating coop4 ,even pairs of pigeons will soon settle down quietly in various nest boxes4 ,they usually keep the same nest boxes and alternate1 having squabs first in one side and then the other4 ,after the birds have become accustomed to their quarters and have selected in which nest they are going to start housekeeping1 it will not be many days1 before they begin to carry stems from the pile on the floor and start their nest4 ,they need no assistance and should not be unnecessarily disturbed until they commence laying4 ,this should occur in about two weeks and then it is advisable to look over the nests twice a week1 and see that all new nests are well made and do not resemble a golf tee4 ,birds sometimes will build a high nest and lay the eggs on the top without any support4 ,it is best to spread out a nest of this kind1 after removing the eggs1 so as to give a good foundation4 ,make a slight hollow in the centre of the stems and then replace the eggs1 but be sure and see that the nest is firm enough to keep the eggs from sinking in1 under the stems4 ,it is advisable for the beginner to mark very lightly with pencil1 on eggs1 the date laid4 ,in this way it is very easy to learn the appearance of an egg at different ages1 and soon you will be able to discern a bad egg at a glance and remove it1 so that the old birds will not waste time sitting on it4 ,fresh laid eggs are semi-transparent and have a slightly dull appearance4 ,they gradually grow opaque and solid white1 with only an air space discernable unless candled4 ,during the third week1 the shell will begin to chip and the baby squab will chip a complete circle1 in end of egg and gradually work out4 ,one egg will usually hatch a day in advance of the other4 ,this is accounted for by the fact that there is from one to two days between the time the hen lays the eggs4 ,the birds always lay the eggs in pairs1 but once in a while two pairs of birds will lay in the same nest and give the impression that four eggs have been laid4 ,bad eggs are discernable easily with a little practice4 ,at a week or ten days' old1 bad eggs will have almost the appearance of a fresh laid egg1 only they are shiny instead of dull on the outside1 and are semi-transparent4 ,if eggs like these are shaken gently1 you can feel that they are loose and watery inside4 ,on being held to the light and turned1 the air space will shift all over4 ,in good eggs1 the air space is stationary4 ,an egg1 two or three weeks' old1 having decided dark lines through it1 is a sign that the squab has died in the shell4 ,if uncertain as to an egg1 it is best to leave till it develops definite signs of being bad4 ,young squabs do not need assistance to get out of shell1 but the empty shell can be removed later4 ,the young squabs should not be handled too much and ,i do not advise any artificial feeding at all1 as the old birds will give their young the best care4 ,after eating and drinking1 the old birds will fly to the nest and feed the young from their bills1 just the right proportions of grain1 formed into a substance called pigeon milk4 ,the so-called pigeon milk varies according to the size of squabs and later contains whole grains and water4 ,the squabs should never leave the nest till fully feathered1 this takes about four weeks1 and at that time the squabs are ready for market4 ,to determine the exact age for marketing1 look beneath the wings1 as they feather out here last4 ,the feeding ,i have not gone into before1 as it is contingent on the squabs4 ,of course1 every locality has peculiarities of its own and certain grains are cheaper in certain places4 ,your local dealer1 no doubt1 has a good pigeon feed to start with4 ,later you can improve and economize by mixing your own feed4 ,our formula for winter feeding1 is as follows3-- ,argentine ,corn #cj ,red ,wheat #aj ,kaffir ,corn #be ,buckwheat #bj ,peas #ae ,summer feeding is3-- ,argentine ,corn #be ,red ,wheat #ae ,kaffir ,corn #cj ,peas #cj ,using these two formulas as a basis1 you can easily arrange the best formula for yourself4 ,corn and buckwheat are very heatening1 and the latter can be entirely dispensed with in warm localities4 ,the corn should either be ,argentine ,corn or small ,american ,corn with a part cracked corn4 ,the amount of cracked corn is determined by the quality4 ,if you can get a good recleaned steel-cut cracked corn1 fairly free from loose fibre1 it is all right to use half-and-half with the whole ,american ,corn4 ,otherwise use #be cracked to #ge whole corn4 ,all grains must be reasonably cured and dried4 ,do not buy new crops of grains until well seasoned4 ,inferior grains like heated corn1 or wheat that has sprouted1 are all to be avoided4 ,scratch feed is not to be recommended as a steady diet1 but will serve for a while4 ,most scratch feeds contain rye1 barley and oats1 all three of which ,i do not recommend as pigeon feed4 ,scratch feed also lacks peas1 and these are the finest fattening and strengthening food that squabs can get4 ,see that the birds get fed regularly twice a day and that they clean up all the food given them1 within an hour4 ,the morning feeding should be between #g3cj and #h3cj1 and in summer1 not later than #h o'clock4 ,afternoon feeding should be around #c o'clock in winter and #d o'clock in summer4 ,if the birds can only be fed once a day1 feed in the morning and see that some feed lasts until #c o'clock in the afternoon4 ,it is easy to judge by the way the birds fly for the grain whether they are fed too heavily or too lightly4 ,fig4 #e illustrates the card we use to regulate feeding4 ,a circular piece of card board1 mounted with a thumb tack through centre1 just outside the door1 shows how much feed was given at last feeding4 ,the top of card indicates the amount4 ,always setting the card the amount fed1 avoids waste and having too much feed standing around1 which may become mouldy and cause sickness4 ,,chapter ,,vi4 ,,squabs ,,for ,,market4 ,squabs are ready for market at from four to four-and-one-half weeks from the time hatched4 ,as soon as the squabs are fully feathered1 they should be removed from the nest1 as they will soon jump from nest and run on the floor1 thereby losing weight until killed4 ,if squabs are to be killed at once1 care should be taken to remove from pen just before feeding time1 so that their crops will not be full of grain4 ,they may even be taken the night before1 if kept in a warm place4 ,illustration3 ,figure #e4 ,,revolving ,,feed ,,regulator ,to kill squabs properly1 they should be hung up by the feet4 ,two nails driven partially into a board about an eighth of an inch apart will serve nicely to clamp the feet4 ,the wings should now be twisted over each other twice1 so that they cannot flap4 ,killing the squab requires a little knack4 ,first1 take the small blade of a penknife and after grasping the head of the squab firmly with thumb and forefinger1 just over eyes1 put the blade down the throat at least one inch1 and then pull up through the top of head4 ,if squab does not die in thirty seconds1 repeat as it is difficult for a novice to cut the wind pipe and brain the first time4 ,plucking is easy and should be done while the squab is still warm4 ,start with the wings1 which are the hardest1 and end with the tail feathers4 ,picking against the feathers is quickest and is less likely to tear the skin4 ,after picking1 the squab should be dropped into cold water to cool and harden4 ,it is best for them to soak for at least three hours1 and over night will not harm them1 if the water is cold and something is put over top so as to keep squabs entirely below the surface4 ,grading squabs as to size depends on whom you are selling to4 ,small1 medium1 and large1 is usually sufficient grading1 but if you desire to grade by pounds to the dozen accurately1 the following table shows just what grade various weight squabs come under4 #f ,pound to the dozen ,squabs #h ozs4 to #i-a_/c ozs4 #g #i-a_/c ozs4 to #aj-b_/c ozs4 #h #aj-b_/c ozs4 to #ab ozs4 #i #ab ozs4 to #ac-a_/c ozs4 #aj #ac-a_/c ozs4 to #ad-b_/c ozs4 #aa #ad-b_/c ozs4 to #af ozs4 #ab over #af ozs4 ,it is not necessary to weigh each squab individually4 ,a half-dozen about the same size will show the approximate weight per dozen4 ,in packing squabs to ship by express1 they should be laid side by side or feet up and tight enough so as not to shake around4 ,in warm seasons ice should be used between each layer and newspapers will help to hold cold and avoid bruising4 ,mark every shipment ,,perishable--,,rush1 and always send an invoice in all shipments sent to commission merchants4 ,in sending squabs alive1 care must be taken to get the birds out with full crops1 so that they will not loose weight in transit4 ,the crate for shipment should be fairly open to allow for plenty of ventilation4 ,over-crowding must be avoided as the squabs huddle in groups and smother easily4 ,a regular spindle coop1 about #bd inches by #cf inches and #a foot high1 will hold #cj live squabs for shipping2 more than that is risky4 ,all shipments of live squabs should also be marked1 ,,perishable--,,rush1 the number of birds in shipment1 and also the value4 ,if squabs are to be sold for breeding purposes1 they should not be shipped till they are at least eight weeks' old1 and preferably ten weeks4 ,only strong birds should be shipped and no shipments should be made in extremely cold weather4 ,,chapter ,,vii4 ,,selecting ,,breeders4 ,selecting squabs for breeding purposes must be done with great care and understanding4 ,if the right kind of birds are not selected your flock will gradually deteriorate4 ,with careful selection1 although slow1 you will constantly be adding profitable breeders to your stock4 ,this is1 of course1 if you start with ,p4 ,v4 ,breeders1 so as to have the nucleus of a good flock to start with4 ,remember1 good breeders will breed plump1 white squabs at a fast rate1 while poor breeders will grow small1 dark squabs that have not the vitality to ever be first-class breeders4 ,even with ,p4 ,v4 breeders you must use care in selecting the young1 and it is wise when starting with a few of our breeders to sell your squabs for a time and buy more of our breeders until your flock is large enough to have a good selection to choose from4 ,the months when squabs should be saved for breeders are1 ,february1 ,march1 ,april and ,may4 ,the birds are in the best of condition then and the squabs will be strong and vigorous4 ,june and ,july squabs are good1 but are more expensive to raise1 as they are at mating age in ,september1 ,october and ,november1 when they are subject to moult and are difficult to mate at this time4 ,i do not recommend saving squabs during the other months1 as ,i have found from experience that they will breed well for two or three years1 and then1 there is a falling off in squabs and a heavy death rate among the hens4 ,illustration3 ,figure #f4 ,,the ,,home ,,of ,p4 ,v4 ,,breeders ,when ready to select your squabs for breeders1 get some light pigeon bands4 ,we use a celluloid coil band that wraps around the leg and stays in position without fastening4 ,by using a different color band every month1 we know at a glance the age of the youngster4 ,always take your squabs in pairs and unless there are two good healthy squabs in the nest do not take them4 ,they do not have to be of unusual size1 but they should both be well fed and weigh eight1 nine or ten pounds to the dozen if dressed4 ,band one bird on the right leg and the other on the left and put back in the nest again4 ,this banding is merely to keep from inbreeding and marking so as not to kill1 and has nothing to do with their being males or females4 ,it is impossible to tell with certainly the sex of a pigeon without noting its actions4 ,with squabs it is still harder1 and although after becoming experienced1 it is possible to make accurate guesses1 one is apt to make a mistake even with old birds4 ,the squabs banded should be left with the parent birds till they are eight weeks' old4 ,then remove to separate pens4 ,the birds banded on the right leg should go in one pen and the youngsters banded on the left leg in a separate pen4 ,this will prevent nest mates going together and avoid inbreeding4 ,the feeding and care for these birds should be the same as for old breeders1 except that they should not have large ,american ,corn and only five per cent4 peas4 ,the grit should have a little olive oil mixed with it once a week4 ,the birds will thrive satisfactorily for about one month in their new quarters and then care has to be taken to see that they do not get out in rainy weather1 as they undergo a moult and are very subject to cold4 ,this moulting time lasts for about three weeks1 and when they get past this stage you will see signs of the birds mating4 ,do not be in any hurry to mate them1 as their first eggs are usually bad and they sometimes will break their matings when taken out too young4 ,the safest way to mate young pigeons is to catch the birds sitting on eggs4 ,color band the hen on the left leg1 who usually sits in the morning till around #aa o'clock4 ,the corresponding band should be fastened somewhere on the nest1 and when you see the mate sitting on the eggs1 in the afternoon1 you must catch him1 and band on the right leg4 ,catching pigeons is usually done with a landing net or crab net with a short handle4 ,the birds should always be caught from behind1 if flying1 so as not to injure them4 ,after you have caught the pair1 they should be removed to a separate pen so that they can start to breed without interference4 ,if the eggs are good that they were sitting on1 they can be placed under other birds that have eggs of about the same age1 and sometimes are raised satisfactorily4 ,do not make the mistake of just leaving all your youngsters alone and trusting they will form even pairs1 for if you do1 there are sure to be odd cocks that will interfere seriously with their breeding4 ,night mating with a flash light is the quickest method1 but requires a dark night and considerable skill to always pick out the mated pairs4 ,mated pairs will often sit together on the front of their nest at night or the hen on the eggs or squabs and the cock on the front4 ,these birds can be readily caught but great care must be exercised lest the other birds fly off their nests and spoil their eggs4 ,driving pairs1 that is1 when one bird continually chases another around pecking at it1 are usually mated but not always1 so be careful to watch them closely if you select mated pairs this way4 ,as a closing remark ,i would say1 ,i have found raising squabs is one of the pleasantest1 most interesting1 and profitable ways of employing spare time1 and whether you are a man or woman1 if you apply this motto1 you can succeed in the squab industry4 ,good ,breeders1 ,good ,feed1 and ,good ,care1 ,then ,you ,will ,get ,good ,squabs1 ,good ,prices1 and ,good ,profits1 ,namely1 ,,success4