,chuck ,greif and the ,online ,distributed ,proofreading ,team at http33_/_/www4pgdp4net ,illustration3 ,,chapel ,,of ,,san ,,isidro1 ,,in ,,the ,,church ,,of ,,san ,,andres1 ,,madrid4 ,,the ,,picturesque ,,antiquities ,,of ,,spain2 ,,described ,,in ,a ,,series ,,of ,,letters1 ,,with ,,illustrations1 ,,representing ,,moorish ,,palaces1 ,,cathedrals1 ,,and ,,other ,,monuments ,,of ,,art1 ,,contained ,,in ,,the ,,cities ,,of ,,burgos1 ,,valladolid1 ,,toledo1 ,,and ,,seville4 ,,by ,,nathaniel ,,armstrong ,,wells4 ,,london3 ,,richard ,,bentley1 ,,new ,,burlington ,,street1 ,publisher in ,ordinary to ,her ,majesty4 ,m4,,dccc4,,xlvi4 ,,london3 ,printed by ,s4 ,j4 ,,bentley1 ,,wilson1 and ,,fley1 ,bangor ,house1 ,shoe ,lane4 ,,preface4 ,the author of the following letters is aware that his publication would have possessed greater utility1 had the architectural descriptions been more minute4 ,he ventures to hope1 however1 that this imperfection may be in some measure balanced by the more extended sphere opened to whatever information it may contain4 ,the absence of many technical expressions1 especially those which enter into a detailed description of almost all ,gothic buildings1 and the employment of which was forbidden by the occasion1 may tend to facilitate the satisfaction of popular curiosity respecting ,spanish art3 the more so from the circumstance that the most intelligent in such subjects are scarcely sufficiently agreed on the application of technical terms1 to allow of the compilation of a standard vocabulary4 ,his ambition will be more than satisfied1 should his past1 and perhaps future researches1 succeed1 in some degree1 in pioneering the path for a more scientific pen4 ,should this work fall into the hands of any reader1 whose expectations of entertainment may have been encouraged by the announcement of another ,spanish tour1 but who may feel but moderate enthusiasm for the artistic and monumental glories of the ,peninsula1 an explanation is due to him1 exonerative of the author from much of the responsibility attached to the matter-of-fact tone of his descriptions4 ,it is no less his nature than it was his wish to paint what he saw as he saw it4 ,unfortunately his visits to ,spain took place after the accomplishment of the revolution1 the hardest blows of which were aimed at her church4 ,the confiscation of the ecclesiastical revenues has necessarily stripped the processions and other ceremonies of their former splendour1 and by suppressing what constituted one of their chief attractions to the native population1 transferred the interest of the lover of the picturesque from the bright colours of animated grouping1 to the dead background of stone and marble they have left4 ,in studying1 however1 to preserve this strict accuracy in all that related to the principal subject of his correspondence1 his aim was to enliven it by the introduction of any incidents worthy of notice which came under his observation4 ,in this object he hopes he may have succeeded4 ,one more remark is necessary4 ,the letters from ,seville1 which form the second of the two parts into which the volume is divided1 although placed last in order of succession1 date in reality from an earlier period than the rest2 and even from a different tour1 as will appear from the description of the route4 ,they were addressed to various individuals1 whereas those forming the first part were all written to the same person4 ,they are thus placed with a view to geographical order and clearness1 and to a sort of unity1 which appeared advisable in the subject of a volume4 ,the two excursions having been separated by an interval of three years1 should alterations have taken place during that period in the places described1 the above circumstance not being borne in mind might lead to an appearance of chronological inaccuracy in the descriptions1 although there is not much probability of the existence of such changes4 ,,london4 ,december #ahde4 ,,contents4 ,,page ,,part ,i4 ,,letter ,i4 ,,to ,,mrs4 ,c----,r #a ,,letter ,,ii4 ,,route ,,to ,,spain ,,through ,,france #i ,,letter ,,iii4 ,,the ,,basque ,,provinces #ae ,,letter ,,iv4 ,,arrival ,,at ,,burgos4 ,,cathedral4 #bh ,,letter ,v4 ,,tomb ,,of ,,the ,,cid4 ,,citadel4 #eb ,,letter ,,vi4 ,,cartuja ,,de ,,miraflores4 ,,convent ,,of ,,las ,,huelgas4 #gj ,,letter ,,vii4 ,,route ,,to ,,madrid4 ,,museo4 #gh ,,letter ,,viii4 ,,picturesque ,,position ,,of ,,toledo4 ,,florinda4 #ajc ,,letter ,,ix4 ,,cathedral ,,of ,,toledo #aba ,,letter ,x4 ,,cafes4 ,,wedding ,,ceremony4 ,,cathedral ,,continued4 ,,alcazar ,,hospital ,,of ,,santa ,,cruz4 ,,convent ,,of ,,la ,,conception4 ,,mysterious ,,cavern4 ,,convent ,,of ,,santa ,,fe1 ,,or ,,of ,,santiago4 ,,sons-,,in-,,law ,,of ,,the ,,cid4 #adc ,,letter ,,xi4 ,,streets ,,of ,,toledo4 ,,el ,,ama ,,de ,,casa4 ,,monastery ,,of ,,san ,,juan ,,de ,,los ,,reyes4 ,,palace ,,of ,,don ,,hurtado ,,de ,,mendoza4 #agb ,,letter ,,xii4 ,,arab ,,monuments4 ,,pictures4 ,,the ,,princess ,,galiana4 ,,environs4 #aie ,,letter ,,xiii4 ,,castles ,,of ,,almonacid1 ,,guadamur1 ,,montalban1 ,,and ,,escalona4 ,,torrijos4 #bad ,,letter ,,xiv4 ,,valladolid4 ,,san ,,pablo4 ,,college ,,of ,,san ,,gregorio4 ,,route ,,by ,,saragoza4 #bdj ,,part ,,ii4--,,seville4 ,,letter ,,xv4 ,,journey ,,to ,,seville4 ,,character ,,of ,,the ,,spaniards4 ,,valley ,,of ,,the ,,rhone4 #bei ,,letter ,,xvi4 ,,voyage ,,to ,,gibraltar #bhh ,,letter ,,xvii4 ,,cadiz4 ,,arrival ,,at ,,seville4 #cjh ,,letter ,,xviii4 ,,the ,,arabs ,,in ,,spain4 ,,alcazar ,,of ,,seville4 #cae ,,letter ,,xix4 ,,cathedral ,,of ,,seville #cej ,,letter ,,xx4 ,,spanish ,,beggars4 ,,hairdressing4 ,,the ,,giralda4 ,,casa ,,de ,,pilatos4 ,,monasteries4 ,,italica4 #cfi ,,letter ,,xxi4 ,,private ,,houses1 ,,and ,,local ,,customs ,,in ,,seville #cii ,,letter ,,xxii4 ,,inquisition4 ,,college ,,of ,,san ,,telmo4 ,,cigar ,,manufactory4 ,,bull ,,circus4 ,,exchange4 ,,ayuntamiento4 #daf ,,footnotes ,,engraved ,,plates4 ,,page ,,chapel ,,of ,,san ,,isidro1 ,,madrid ,to face ,title4 ,,transept ,,of ,,cathedral1 ,,burgos #ch ,,interior ,,of ,,the ,,church ,,of ,,miraflor ,,es #gb ,,view ,,of ,,toledo #ajf ,,interior ,,of ,,cathedral1 ,,toledo #adj ,,fa,,ade ,,of ,,san ,,gregorio1 ,,valladolid #bdh ,,hall ,,of ,,ambassadors1 ,,do4 #cae ,,fa,,ade ,,of ,,the ,,alcazar1 ,,seville #cbe ,,great ,,court ,,of ,,do4 #cbh ,,interior ,,of ,,the ,,cathedral1 ,,seville #cec ,,wood ,,engravings4 ,,arco ,,de ,,santa ,,maria4 ,,burgos4 #cj ,,interior ,,of ,,the ,,choir1 ,,cathedral ,,of ,,burgos #cc ,,sculpture ,,in ,,the ,,apse1 ,,do4 ,,do4 #dj ,,head ,,of ,,st4 ,,francis #dh ,,fountain ,,of ,,santa ,,maria1 ,,burgos #fi ,,italian ,,gallery ,,at ,,the ,,museo1 ,,madrid #id ,,florinda',s ,,bath1 ,,toledo #aab ,,apse ,,of ,,the ,,cathedral1 ,,toledo #abi ,,costume ,,of ,a ,,military ,,nun1 ,,santa ,,fe1 ,,toledo #afe ,,church ,,of ,,san ,,juan ,,de ,,los ,,reyes1 ,,do4 #agi ,,cloister ,,of ,,san ,,juan ,,de ,,los ,,reyes1 ,,do4 #ahb ,,interior ,,of ,,santa ,,maria ,,la ,,blanca1 ,,do4 #aif ,,interior ,,of ,,christo ,,de ,,la ,,luz1 ,,do4 #bja ,,castle ,,of ,,guadamur4 ,,environs ,,of ,,do4 #bbf ,,fa,,ade ,,of ,,san ,,pablo4 ,,valladolid #bdb ,,court ,,of ,,san ,,gregorio4 ,,valladolid #bdi ,,court ,,of ,,dolls1 ,,alcazar1 ,,seville #cca ,,fountains ,,at ,,the ,,alcazar #cci ,,portal ,,of ,,san ,,telmo1 ,,seville #dbb ,,picturesque ,,antiquities ,,of ,,spain4 ,,letter ,i4 ,,to ,,mrs4 ,c---- ,r4 ,rue de ,richelieu4 ,you perceived at a glance the satisfaction you caused me1 when1 on receiving my temporary adieus1 you requested me to send you some account of my travels in ,spain4 ,had it not been so1 you had not been in possession1 on that day1 of your usual penetration4 ,indeed1 you no doubt foresaw it2 aware that1 next to the pleasure of acquiring ocular information respecting the peculiar objects which interest an individual1 there is no greater one than that of communicating to a spirit1 animated by congenial tastes1 the results of his explorations4 ,you must have foreseen1 that1 with my recollections of the pleasure ,i had derived from our excursions in one of the most interesting regions of ,france1 during which ,i was witness to the intelligence and rapidity of perception you displayed in the appreciation of the monuments of the ,middle ,ages1 the opportunity of committing to paper the impressions ,i should receive in a country so rich in those treasures1 with a view to your information1 would give an additional interest to my tour1 as well as encouragement in surmounting the obstacles to be met with among a people not yet broken in to the curiosity of tourists4 ,you professed also1 with a modesty always becoming to talent and worth1 a complete ignorance respecting ,spain3 adding1 that you would be grateful for every sort of information2 and that you were anxious to be enlightened on the subject not only of the monuments and fine arts1 but also of the history of that country1 of which you had never had an opportunity of informing yourself2 summing up by the enumeration of the three names of the ,cid1 ,charles the ,fifth1 and ,roderic the ,goth1 the entire amount of your acquaintance with the leading characters of ,spanish history4 ,indeed1 the ignorance you profess with some exaggeration1 is more or less general in our country2 nor is it surprising that such should be the case4 ,spain has been in modern times in the background of ,european progress4 ,the thousand inconveniences of its routes and inns have deterred the most enterprising from making it a place of resort2 and while a hundred less interesting scenes of travel1 such as ,baden-,baden1 ,bohemia1 sporting adventures in ,norway1 or winterings in ,st4 ,petersburg1 have claimed your attention during the reposes of quadrilles1 and substantiated the conversation of several of your morning visitors1 ,spain has been unnoticed and unknown--laid on the shelf with the ,arabian ,nights--considered a sort of fabulous country1 which it would be charming to know1 but with which there would never be a chance of forming an acquaintance2 and you have contented yourself with a sort of general information respecting it1 derived from a few romances and poems4 ,you are intimate with ,boabdil and the wars of ,granada1 but to those events is limited your knowledge of its ancient history2 and the reigns of ,charles the ,fifth and ,philip the ,second1 with the addition of some confused visions1 in which autos-da-f and dungeons contrast in a rather gloomy background with laughing majas1 whirling their castagnettes to the soft cadences of guitars1 fill up the remaining space allotted to ,spain in your recollections4 ,it would be a task full of interest for me--possessed1 as ,i shall probably be1 of ample opportunities for its accomplishment--to draw up for your information a summary of the leading events of ,spanish history2 connecting them by the chain of reigns of the successive sovereigns2 and thus to press into a limited compass a sort of abstract of the annals of this extraordinary nation3 but ,i am deterred by the certainty that such an attempt1 by me1 would fail of its intended object4 ,the events1 thus slurred over1 would have the effect of whetting the appetite for knowledge1 which they would not satisfy2 and the interminable lists of monarchs1 of successions1 usurpations1 alliances and intermarriages1 rendered doubly intricate by the continual recurrence of the same names1 without sufficient details to particularise each--a chaos of outlines without the necessary shading to bring out the figures from the canvass--would not only set at defiance the clearest memory1 but would be a trial which ,i would not for worlds impose upon your patience4 ,no history is more attractive than that of ,spain2 and those works which exist upon the subject1 although all1 more or less1 sullied with inaccuracies1 and most of them infected with prejudice1 and immersed in superstitious delusion1 are still well worth your perusal2 but it would lead me out of my depth1 were ,i to undertake in my correspondence more than an occasional historical quotation1 when required by the interest attached to any monument which it may fall to my lot to describe4 ,were ,i not to transmit to you a conscientious and faithful account of all that ,i shall see1 ,i should be guilty of cruelty2 and that the more base1 from the certain impunity that must attend it4 ,i say this1 from the impossibility of your ever undertaking the same journey1 and consequently of your ever being able to compare my portraits with their originals4 ,in fact1 the incompatibility of your nature1 and that of the ,spanish climate1 must ever be present to me1 who1 during the vivifying heats of the late very bearable canicule1 in your ,french chteau--so constructed as to perform the functions of an atmospheric sieve1 by separating the wind1 which rushed through its doors and windows1 judiciously placed in parallels for the purpose1 from the warmer sunshine without--was witness1 nevertheless1 to your unaffected distress1 when you protested against any lofty1 oak-panelled room being sat or reclined in by more than one human being at a time1 lest it should be over-heated2 placing thus an obstacle in the way of conversation1 in which to shine is your especial province1 by rendering it necessary to converse through various open doors2 while1 were an additional testimony necessary to prove the sincerity of your sufferings1 your favourite of favourites1 ,caliph1 repulsed and uncaressed1 hung his silken ears1 as he solemnly retreated to coil himself on a distant rug1 and voted the dog-days a misnomer4 ,nor were you contented with your atmosphere1 until1 the season of insects and al-fresco suppers being long left behind1 and the autumnal equinox having peremptorily closed the doors and windows1 fitted1 alas6 by a carpenter who flourished in the reign of ,louis the ,fourteenth1 so plentiful a supply of air was afforded by the handy-works of the said carpenter1 that the ,chinese screen had some difficulty in maintaining its post1 and the flames of the well-furnished elm-fire ascended with a roar that would have shamed many a cataract of the rival element4 ,not but that ,i would willingly forego the opportunity of sending you erroneous information1 in exchange for your presence in that country2 and for your assistance in comprehending the nature of a people apparently composed of such contradictory ingredients4 ,you might probably succeed in fathoming the hidden springs of character1 which give birth to a crowd of anomalies difficult to explain4 ,you would discover by what mystery of organization a people1 subject to the influence of violent passions1 combine an abject subjection to the forms of etiquette1 carried to its extreme in every-day life1 with occasional outbreaks of adventure and romance worthy of the days of ,orlando and ,rodomonte2 and account for a nation exchanging a costume which combines utility with grace1 for one inferior in both respects4 ,inventors of whatever is most fascinating in dances and music--you would discover the motive which induces them to abandon both1 but principally the first1 which they replace by the ,french rigodon1 or dancing-made-easy1 and adapted to youth1 manhood1 and all stages of paralysis2 and1 possessing the cathedrals of ,leon1 ,burgos1 and ,seville1 to denounce ,gothic architecture as barbarous1 and to brand it with the contemptuous denomination of crested masonry4 ,should my mono-7--monument-7 mania run riot1 and over-describe1 over-taxing even your passion for that branch of art1 be assured--and to this promise you may always look back for consolation and encouragement--that ,i will not write you a history of the recent1 or any previous ,spanish revolution1 apropos of the first sentry-box ,i meet with1 even though its form be that of a ,lilliputian brick castle4 ,nor shall my first glimpse of a matador occasion you a list of bull-fights1 voluminous enough to line the circumference of the barrera4 ,no ,diligence shall be waylaid1 nor in my presence shall any ladies' fingers be amputated1 the quicker to secure her rings1 if ,i can possibly avoid it2 and1 as far as depends on me1 ,i shall arrive in a whole skin at each journey's end1 and without poisoning you or myself with garlick1 unless the new ,cortes pass a law for denying to the stranger all other sorts of aliment4 ,i have resolved1 by a process of reasoning which ,i need not at present impart to you1 and in virtue of a permission which ,i have little doubt of your granting1 to publish my part of our correspondence4 ,i think that neither of us will be a loser by this plan1 however conceited ,i may appear to you for saying so4 ,yourself1 in the first place1 must be a gainer by the perusal of descriptions1 on which1 from their being prepared for the ordeal of a less indulgent eye1 greater care will necessarily be expended3 the public may benefit in obtaining information1 which shall be at all events accurate1 relative to subjects as yet inadequately appreciated by those they are the most likely to interest3 while the chief gainer1 in the event of these two ends being attained1 will of course be your devoted and humble correspondent4 ,,letter ,,ii4 ,,route ,,to ,,spain ,,through ,,france4 ,bayonne4 ,the position of ,burgos on the principal line of communication by which ,madrid is approached from the north of ,europe2 the fact of its being the first city met with1 after crossing the ,pyrenees1 in which monuments are found remaining of the former genius and grandeur of the country2 and the name of which calls up the more stirring and eventful epochs of ,spanish history1--render it1 notwithstanding its actual distance from the frontier1 a sort of introduction or gateway to ,spain--the ,spain of the tourist4 ,the most agreeable and least troublesome way of visiting the best parts of ,spain excludes1 it is true1 this route2 for the provinces of the ,peninsula which combine the greater number of requisites for the enjoyment of life with the most attractive specimens of the picturesque1 whether natural or artificial1 are those nearest to the coast1 and they are approached more conveniently by sea4 ,those1 however1 who can devote sufficient time1 will be repaid1 by a tour in the interior of the country1 for the increase of trouble it may occasion them2 and this tour should precede the visit to the maritime provinces1 as it will render their superior comforts and climate the more acceptable from the contrast4 ,the scenery of the ,pyrenees1 and the passing acquaintance formed with the original and picturesque population of the ,basque provinces1 secure the traveller against any danger of ennui throughout the land-journey between the frontier and the city of ,burgos4 ,there does not exist the same security throughout the extent of route which it is necessary to travel in order to reach this frontier4 ,the approach to ,spain across the south-western provinces of ,france offers few objects worthy of detaining us on our way to the ,peninsula4 ,it is one of the least interesting of ,french routes4 ,from ,paris you pass through ,orleans and ,tours4 ,at ,chatellerault--between the latter city and ,poitiers--the inn-door is besieged by women offering knives for sale4 ,it is everywhere known that cutlery is not one of the departments of ,french manufactures which have attained the greatest degree of superiority4 ,a glance at the specimens offered for our choice while changing horses at ,chatellerault1 showed them to be very bad1 even for ,france4 ,this did not1 however1 prevent a multitude of travellers from purchasing each his knife1 nor one of them from laying in a plentiful stock1 stating that he destined a knife for each member of his family--evidently one of the most numerous in ,france4 ,i inquired of a native the explanation of this scene1 and whether these knives were considered superior to those met with in other towns4 ,oh no1 was the reply2 but it is usual to buy knives here4 ,i ventured to say ,i thought them very bad4 ,that is of no consequence2 because1 whenever you have passed through ,chatellerault1 every one asks you for a knife made on the spot4 ,these victims of custom had paid enormous prices for their acquisitions4 ,poitiers is a crazy old town1 but contains one of the most admirable specimens of the architecture immediately preceding the pointed1 or ogivale1 and which the ,french savans call the ,romane4 ,i allude to the church called the ,notre ,dame de ,poitiers4 ,the west front is highly ornamented1 and unites all the peculiar richness with the quaintness and simplicity of design which characterize that fine old style4 ,i must not omit the forest of ,chatellerault1 passed through on leaving that town4 ,it is famous as the scene of the picnic given to the ladies of the neighbouring city by the officers of a ,polish regiment quartered there1 immediately before the breaking out of the ,peninsular war4 ,it is related that ,polish gallantry overstepped etiquette to such a degree1--and that by premeditation1--as to urge these cavaliers1 by force of bayonet1 and sentries1 to separate all the husbands1 and other male relatives1 from the fairer portion of the guests4 ,the consequences of such a termination of the festivities may easily be imagined2 ,bonaparte1 a rigid judge with regard to all divorces except his own1 on receiving the complaint of the insulted town1 condemned the officers en masse to be decimated1 and the survivors degraded from their rank4 ,he relented1 however1 afterwards1 on an understanding that they were to regain their sullied laurels in the ,peninsula2 where1 in fact1 in consequence of his orders1 such opportunities were afforded them1 that scarcely a man in the regiment survived the earliest campaigns4 ,the inhabitants of ,chatellerault are said to take great offence on being asked their age1 suspecting the inquirer of a malicious calculation4 ,the new quarter of ,bordeaux is handsome1 spacious1 and airy4 ,in the promenade called ,la ,quinconce1 on the bank of the river1 a large insulated edifice1 the most monumental in view1 is discovered by the inscription on its front to be an establishment for warm baths4 ,at one extremity of the principal faade is seen1 in sculptured letters1 ,bains des dames2 at the other1 ,bains des hommes4 ,at this latter entrance a handsome staircase leads to the corridor of general communication1 on the unsullied white wall of which the code of discipline of the establishment1 traced in large sable characters1 forces itself on the notice of the visitor4 ,it consists of the following single and rather singular statute3 ,il est expressement dfendu aux garons de permettre deux hommes de se servir de la mme baignoire4 ,after some reflection ,i concluded it to be a measure of precaution with regard to cleanliness1 carried1 no doubt1 to an extreme at ,bordeaux4 ,this town is well deserving of a few days' halt1 should the traveller's object be amusement1 or the pleasures of the table1 for which it enjoys a well-merited reputation4 ,it is a large and handsome city1 the second in ,france in beauty1 and vies with the capital in the elegance of its shops and principal streets4 ,the theatre is1 externally1 the finest in ,france2 and there is1 besides the cathedral1 and surpassing it in interest and antiquity1 a remarkable ,gothic church4 ,of the sixty leagues which separate this town from ,bayonne1 forty afford the most perfect example of monotony4 ,one sighs for the ,steppes of ,russia4 ,these are the well-known ,landes1 consisting of uncultivated sands and morass2 now covered league after league with the unvarying gloom of the pine and cork forests1--now dreary and bare1--but ever presenting to the wearied eye a wide interminable waste1 replete with melancholy and desolation4 ,it is true1 that a day of pouring rain was not calculated to set off to advantage the qualities of such a region1 and should in strict justice be admitted in evidence before passing condemnation on the ,landes4 ,,letter ,,iii4 ,,the ,,basque ,,provinces4 ,burgos4 ,it never causes me surprise when ,i see the efforts made by persons of limited means to obtain the situation of ,consul in a continental town4 ,in spite of one's being1 as it were1 tied to one's residence1--and that not one's home1--there are advantages which counterbalance the evil4 ,the place carries with it a certain degree of consequence4 ,one feels oneself suddenly a man of influence1 and a respectable public character4 ,i have heard one1 certainly far from being high on the list of these functionaries1 termed by a humbler inhabitant of his residence1 the ,premier ,consul4 ,the income1 too1 is1 it is true1 limited2 but then one is usually in a cheap place4 ,in fact1 ,i always envied these favoured individuals4 ,no calling1 however1 is without its dboires4 ,it seems as if ,providence had decreed that an income cannot be fairly1 if agreeably1 earned4 ,thus1 the set-off against the bliss of the consul1 is the necessity he is under of holding out his hand for his fee4 ,i make these remarks1 to introduce to your notice an ingenious method1 put in practice--probably invented--by our consul at ,bayonne1 for getting over the irksomeness of this duty4 ,i found him in his bureau1 pen in hand1 and a large sheet of official-shaped paper before him1 half written over4 ,on my passport being presented for his visa1 his countenance assumed a painful expression1 in which regret was blended with a sort of tendency to compassion1 and which at first occasioned me a sensation of alarm1 conjuring up in my imagination all the consequences of an irregular passport--tedious routes to be retraced1 time lost1 expense incurred1 and suspicion1 and even incarceration--infection--death6 ,meanwhile he pointed to the letter he was writing1 and1 drawing forward with the other hand a chair1 said that he was at that moment memorializing the ,foreign ,office on the subject of these visas2 that his pain was extreme at seeing travellers compelled to send or come to his office1 and to lose thus much valuable time2 he was likewise concerned at their having to pay three francs each for so useless a ceremony as his visa2 but he wished it to be remarked1 that it was at present a ceremony quite indispensable2 since1 only four days back1 a gentleman had been compelled to return from the ,spanish frontier 7a distance of seven leagues7 in the middle of the night1 in consequence of his having neglected this1 as yet1 necessary observance4#a ,leaving ,bayonne by ,diligence1 although still at some distance from the frontier1 you are already in a ,spanish vehicle4 ,the only difference consists in its being drawn by horses as far as ,irun1 a few hundred yards in ,spain1 at which place they are replaced by a team of mules2 but the mayoral is ,spanish from the commencement1 as also usually the greater number of the travellers4 ,from the first view of ,spanish ground1 the monotony of the landscape ceases1 and gives place to picturesque scenery4 ,this effect is as sudden as if produced by the whistle of a scene-shifter4 ,from the brow of a hill the valley of the ,bidassoa opens on the view1 the bay on the right1 two or three towns in the centre1 and beyond them1 stretching to the left1 the chain of the ,pyrenees4 ,this opening scene is very satisfactory to the newly arrived traveller1 whose expectations have been rising towards fever-heat as he gradually neared the object of his dreams--the renowned romantic land2 the more so1 as he is well prepared1 by the ,landes of ,france1 to enjoy to the utmost the variety of scene afforded by the two days of mountain and valley which separate the frontier from the town of ,vitoria4 ,the ,diligence comes to a halt every afternoon2 the day's journey having commenced at three in the morning4 ,there are three of these days between ,bayonne and ,burgos4 ,at ,tolosa and ,vitoria--the intermediate places of rest--the system is as follows3 ,arriving at about four in the afternoon1 an interval is allowed of about two hours1 which in a long journey can always be profitably employed1 until the meal1 called supper4 ,this is ,homerically plentiful1 and varied sufficiently to suit the tastes of all such as are accustomed to the vicissitudes of travelling4 ,the repast over1 all gradually retire to their sleeping apartments1 where they are undisturbed until two o'clock in the morning4 ,at this hour each passenger is furnished with a candle1 and requested to get up2 and at a quarter to three the muchacha 7chambermaid7 reappears1 bearing in her hand a plate1 on which1 after rubbing his eyes1 the traveller may discover1 if it be allowed so to speak1 an imperceptible cup1 a xicara1--since1 having the thing1 they have a name for it1 which is of course untranslateable1--of excellent chocolate1 an azucarillo 7almost transparent sugar prepared for instantaneous melting71 a glass of water1 and a piece of bread4 ,after partaking of this agreeable refreshment1 you have just time left to pay your bill1 fold up your passport1 which during the night has remained in the hands of the police1 and to take your seat in the ,diligence4 ,the towns of the ,basque provinces appear not to have been much maltreated during the ,carlist war2 not so the villages1 most of which present a melancholy aspect of ruin and desolation4 ,the churches1 built so as to appear more like keeps of castles1 have mostly withstood the shock4 ,the destruction was oftener the result of burning than of artillery4 ,the lover of the picturesque offers his silent gratitude to the combatants on both sides1 for sparing1 although unintentionally1 some of the most charming objects of all ,spain4 ,among the most striking of these is ,hernani4 ,it is composed of one street1 of the exact required width for the passage of an ordinary vehicle4 ,this street is a perfect specimen of picturesque originality4 ,the old faades are mostly emblazoned with the bearings of their ancient proprietors1 sculptured in high relief4 ,on entering the place1 the effect is that of a deep twilight after the broad blaze of the sunny mountains4 ,this is caused by the almost flat roofs1 which advance considerably beyond the fronts of the houses1 and nearly meet in the centre of the street3 the roof of each house is either higher or lower1 or more or less projecting1 than its neighbour2 and all are supported by carved woodwork1 black from age4 ,the street terminates on the brow of a hill1 and widens at the end1 so as to form a small square1 one retreating side of which is occupied by the front of a church covered with old sculpture2 and the diligence1 preceded by its long team of tinkling mules1 disappears through the arched gateway of a ,gothic castle4 ,in this part of ,spain one does not hear the sounds of the guitar2 these commence further on4 ,on ,sundays and holydays1 the fair of ,tolosa1 and of the other ,basque towns1 flourish their castagnettes to the less romantic whinings of the violin2 but1 in traversing the country1 the ear is continually met by a sound less musical1 although no less national1 than that of the guitar--a sort of piercing and loud complaint1 comparable to nothing but the screams of those who have relinquished hope at ,dante's grim gateway4 ,these unearthly accents assail the ear of the traveller long before he can perceive the object whence they proceed2 but1 becoming louder and louder1 there will issue from a narrow road1 or rather ravine1 a diminutive cart1 shut in between two small round tables for wheels4 ,their voice proceeds from their junction with the axle1 by a contrivance1 the nature of which ,i did not examine closely enough to describe4 ,a ,french tourist expresses much disgust at this custom1 which he attributes to the barbarous state of his neighbours1 and their ignorance of mechanical art2 it is1 however1 much more probable that the explanation given by the native population is the correct one4 ,according to this1 the wheels are so constructed for the useful purpose of forewarning all other drivers of the approach of a cart4 ,the utility of some such invention is evident4 ,the mountain roads are cut to a depth often of several yards1 sometimes scores of yards1 7being probably dried-up beds of streams17 and frequently for a distance of some furlongs admit of the passage of no more than one of these carts at a time1 notwithstanding their being extremely narrow4 ,the driver1 forewarned at a considerable distance by a sound he cannot mistake1 seeks a wide spot1 and there awaits the meeting4 ,you need not be told that human experience analysed resolves itself into a series of disappointments4 ,i beg you to ask yourself1 or any of your acquaintances1 whether any person1 thing1 or event ever turned out to be exactly1 or nearly1 such as was expected he1 she1 or it would be4 ,according to the disposition of each individual1 these component parts of experience become the bane or the charm of his life4 ,this truth may be made1 by powerful resolve1 the permanent companion of your reflections1 so as to render the expectation of disappointment stronger than any other expectation4 ,what then8 ,if you know the expected result will undergo a metamorphosis before it becomes experience1 you will not be disappointed4 ,only try4 ,for instance1--every one knows the ,spanish character by heart2 it is the burden of all literary productions1 which1 from the commencement of time1 have treated of that country4 ,a ,carlist officer1 therefore1--the hopeless martyr in the ,apostolic1 aristocratic cause of divine right2 the high-souled being1 rushing into the daily1 deadly struggle1 supported1 instead of pay and solid rations1 by his fidelity to his persecuted king2--such a character is easily figured4 ,the theory of disappointments must here be at fault4 ,he is a true ,spaniard2 grave1 reserved1 dignified4 ,his lofty presence must impress every assembly with a certain degree of respectful awe4--,i mounted the coup1 or berlina1 of the ,diligence1 to leave ,tolosa1 with a good-looking1 fair1 well-fed native1 with a long falling auburn moustache4 ,we commenced by bandying civilities as to which should hold the door while the other ascended4 ,no sooner were we seated than my companion inquired whether ,i was military2 adding1 that he was a ,carlist captain of cavalry returning from a six months' emigration4 ,notwithstanding the complete polish of his manners in addressing me1 it was evident he enjoyed an uncommon exuberance of spirits1 even more than the occasion could call for from the most ardent lover of his country2 and ,i at first concluded he must have taken the earliest opportunity 7it being four o'clock in the morning7 of renewing his long-interrupted acquaintance with the flask of aguardiente3 but that this was not the case was evident afterwards1 from the duration of his tremendous happiness4 ,during the first three or four hours1 his tongue gave itself not an instant's repose4 ,every incident was a subject of merriment1 and1 when tired of talking to me1 he would open the front-window and address the mayoral2 then roar to the postilion1 ten mules ahead2 then swear at the zagal running along the road1 or toss his cigar-stump at the head of some wayfaring peasant-girl4 ,sometimes1 all his vocabulary being exhausted1 he contented himself with a loud laugh1 long continued2 then he would suddenly fall asleep1 and1 after bobbing his head for five or six minutes1 awake in a convulsion of laughter1 as though his dream was too merry for sleep4 ,whatever he said was invariably preceded by two or three oaths1 and terminated in the same manner4 ,the ,spanish 7perhaps1 in this respect1 the richest ,european language7 hardly sufficed for his supply4 ,he therefore selected some of the more picturesque specimens for more frequent repetition4 ,these1 in default of topics of conversation1 sometimes served instead of a fit of laughter or a nap3 and once or twice he hastily lowered the window1 and gave vent to a string of about twenty oaths at the highest pitch of his lungs2 then shut it deliberately1 and remained silent for a minute4 ,during dinner he cut a whole cheese into lumps1 with which he stuffed an unlucky lap-dog1 heedless of the entreaties of two fair fellow-travellers1 proprietors of the condemned quadruped4 ,this was a ,carlist warrior6 ,the inhabitants of the ,basque provinces are a fine race1 and taller than the rest of the ,spaniards4 ,the men possess the hardy and robust appearance common to mountaineers1 and the symmetry of form which is almost universal in ,spain1 although the difference of race is easily perceptible4 ,the women are decidedly handsome1 although they also are anything but ,spanish-looking2 and their beauty is often enhanced by an erect and dignified air1 not usually belonging to peasants1 7for ,i am only speaking of the lower orders17 and attributable principally to a very unpeasant-like planting of the head on the neck and shoulders4 ,i saw several village girls whom nothing but their dress would prevent from being mistaken for ,german or ,english ladies of rank1 being moreover universally blondes4 ,on quitting ,vitoria1 you leave behind you the mountains and the pretty faces4 ,for us1 however1 the latter were not entirely lost4 ,there were two in the ,diligence1 belonging to the daughters of a ,grandee of the first class1 ,count de ,p4 ,these youthful seoritas had taken the opportunity1 rendered particularly well-timed by the revolutions and disorders of their country1 of passing three years in ,paris1 which they employed in completing their education1 and seeing the wonders of that town1 soi-disant the most civilized in the world2 which probably it would have been1 had the old rgime not been overthrown4 ,they were now returning to ,madrid1 furnished with all the new ideas1 and the various useful and useless accomplishments they had acquired4 ,every one whose lot it may have been to undertake a journey of several days in a ,diligence1--that is1 in one and the same1--and who consequently recollects that trembling and anxious moment during which he has passed in review the various members of the society of which he is to be1 nolens volens1 a member2 and the feverish interest which directed his glance of rapid scrutiny towards those in particular of the said members with whom he was to be exposed to more immediate contact1 and at the mercy of whose birth and education1 habits1 opinions1 prejudices1 qualities1 and propensities1 his happiness and comfort were to be placed during so large and uninterrupted a period of his existence1--will comprehend my gratitude to these fair migres1 whose lively conversation shortened the length of each day1 adding to the charms of the magnificent scenery by the opportunity they afforded of a congenial interchange of impressions4 ,although we did not occupy the same compartment of the carriage1 their party requiring the entire interior and rotonde1 we always renewed acquaintance when a prolonged ascent afforded an opportunity of liberating our limbs from their confinement4 ,the two daily repasts also would have offered no charm1 save that of the ,basque cuisine1--which1 although cleanly and solid1 is not perfectly cordon bleu1--but for the entertaining conversation of my fair fellow-travellers1 who had treasured up in their memory the best sayings and doings of ,arnal1 and the other ,listons and ,yateses of the ,french capital1 which1 seasoned with a slight ,spanish accent1 were indescribably piquants and original4 ,my regret was sincere on our respective routes diverging at ,burgos2 for they proceeded by the direct line over the ,somo sierra to ,madrid1 while ,i take the longer road by the ,guadarramas1 in order to visit ,valladolid4 ,i shall not consequently make acquaintance with the northern approach to ,madrid1 unless ,i return thither a second time2 as to that of my fellow-travellers1 ,i should be too fortunate were it to be renewed during my short stay in their capital4 ,,letter ,,iv4 ,,arrival ,,at ,,burgos4 ,,cathedral4 ,burgos4 ,the chain of the ,lower ,pyrenees1 after the ascent from the ,french side1 and a two days' journey of alternate mountain and valley1 terminates on the ,spanish side at almost its highest level4 ,a gentle descent leads to the plain of ,vitoria2 and1 after leaving behind the fresh-looking1 well-farmed environs of that town1 there remains a rather monotonous day's journey across the bare plains of ,castile1 only varied by the passage through a gorge of about a mile in extent1 called the ,pass of ,pancorbo1 throughout which the road is flanked on either side by a perpendicular rock of from six to eight hundred feet elevation4 ,the ancient capital of ,castile is visible from a considerable distance1 when approached in this direction2 being easily recognised by the spires of its cathedral1 and by the citadel placed on an eminence1 which forms a link of a chain of hills crossing the route at this spot4 ,the extent of ,burgos bears a very inadequate proportion to the idea formed of it by strangers1 derived from its former importance and renown4 ,it is composed of five or six narrow streets1 winding round the back of an irregularly shaped colonnaded plaza4 ,the whole occupies a narrow space1 comprised between the river ,arlanon1 and the almost circular hill of scarcely a mile in circumference1 7on which stands the citadel7 and covers altogether about double the extent of ,windsor ,castle4 ,the city has received a sort of modern facing1 consisting of a row of regularly built white houses1 which turn their backs to the ,plaza1 and front the river2 uniting at one extremity with an ancient gateway1 which1 facing the principal bridge1 must originally have stood slightly in advance of the town1 to which it formed a very characteristic entrance4 ,it is a quadrangular edifice1 pierced with a low semicircular arch4 ,the arch is flanked on the river front by small circular turrets1 and surmounted by seven niches1 containing statues of magistrates1 kings1 and heroes2 while over these1 in a centre niche1 stands a semicolossal statue of the ,virgin1 from which the monument derives its title of ,arco de ,santa ,maria4 ,another arch1 but totally simple1 situated at the other extremity of the new buildings1 faces another bridge2 and this1 with that of ,santa ,maria1 and a third1 placed halfway between them1 leading to the ,plaza1 form the three entrances to the city on the river side4 ,illustration3 ,,arco ,,de ,,santa ,,maria4 ,the dimensions of this1 and many other ,spanish towns1 must not be adopted as a base for estimating their amount of population4 ,irun1 at the frontier of ,france1 stands on a little hill1 the surface of which would scarcely suffice for a country-house1 with its surrounding offices and gardens3 it contains1 nevertheless1 four or five thousand inhabitants1 and comprises a good-sized market-place and handsome town-hall1 besides several streets4 ,nor does this close packing render the ,spanish towns less healthy than our straggling cities1 planned with a view to circulation and purity of atmosphere1 although the difference of climate would seem to recommend to each of the two countries the system pursued by the other4 ,the humidity of the atmosphere in ,england would be the principal obstacle to cleanliness and salubrity1 had the towns a more compact mode of construction2 whilst in ,spain1 on the contrary1 this system is advantageous as a protection against the excessive power of the summer sun1 which would render our wide streets--bordered by houses too low to afford complete shade--not only almost impassable1 but uninhabitable4 ,the ,plaza of ,burgos 7entitled de la ,constitucion1 or de ,isabel ,,ii41 or del ,duque de la ,victoria1 or otherwise1 according to the government of the day17 has always been the resort of commerce4 ,the projecting first-floors being supported by square pillars1 a sort of bazaar is formed under them1 which includes all the shop population of the city1 and forms an agreeable lounge during wet or too sunny weather4 ,throughout the remainder of the town1 with the exception of the modern row of buildings above mentioned1 almost all the houses are entered through ,gothic doorways1 surmounted by armorial bearings sculptured in stone1 which1 together with their ornamental inner courts and staircases1 testify to their having sheltered the chivalry of ,old ,castile4 ,the ,cathedral1 although by no means large1 appears to fill half the town2 and considering that1 in addition to its conspicuous and inviting aspect1 it is the principal remaining monument of the ancient wealth and grandeur of the province1 and one of the most beautiful edifices in ,europe1 ,i will lose no time in giving you a description of it4 ,this edifice1 or at least the greater portion of it1 dates from the thirteenth century4 ,the first stone was laid by ,saint ,ferdinand1 on the #bjth of ,july #abba4 ,ferdinand had just been proclaimed king by his mother ,doa ,berenguela1 who had invested him with his sword at the royal convent of the ,huelgas1 about a mile distant from ,burgos4 ,don ,mauricio1 ,bishop of ,burgos1 blessed the armour as the youthful king girded it1 and1 three days subsequently to the ceremony1 he united him to the ,princess ,beatrice1 in the church of the same convent4 ,this bishop assisted in laying the first stone of the cathedral1 and presided over the construction of the entire body of the building1 including half of the two principal towers4 ,illustration3 ,,interior ,,of ,,the ,,choir4 ,his tomb may be seen at the back of the ,choir4 ,from the date of the building its style may at once be recognised1 allowing for a difference which existed between ,england and the ,continent1 the latter being somewhat in advance4 ,the original edifice must have been a very perfect and admirable specimen of the pointed architecture of its time in all its purity4 ,as it is1 unfortunately1 7as the antiquary would say1 and1 ,i should add1 the mere man of taste1 were it not that tastes are various1 and that the proverb says they are all in nature17 the centre of the building1 forming the intersection of the transept and nave1 owing to some defect in the original construction1 fell in just at the period during which regular architecture began to waver1 and the style called in ,france the ,renaissance was making its appearance4 ,an architect of talent1 ,felipe de ,borgoa1 hurried from ,toledo1 where he was employed in carving the stalls of the choir1 to furnish a plan for the centre tower4 ,he1 however1 only carried the work to half the height of the four cylindrical piers which support it4 ,he was followed by several others before the termination of the work2 and ,juan de ,herrera1 the architect of the ,escorial1 is said to have completed it4 ,in this design are displayed infinite talent and imagination2 but the artist could not alter the taste of the age4 ,it is more than probable that he would have kept to the pure style of his model1 but for the prevailing fashion of his time4 ,taken by itself1 the tower is1 both externally and internally1 admirable1 from the elegance of its form1 and the richness of its details2 but it jars with the rest of the building4 ,placing this tower in the background1 we will now repair to the west front4 ,here nothing is required to be added1 or taken away1 to afford the eye a feast as perfect as grace1 symmetry1 grandeur1 and lightness1 all combined1 are capable of producing4 ,nothing can exceed the beauty of this front taken as a whole4 ,you have probably seen an excellent view of it in one of ,roberts's annuals4 ,the artists of ,burgos complain of an alteration1 made some fifty years back by the local ecclesiastical authorities1 nobody knows for what reason4 ,they caused a magnificent portal to be removed1 to make way for a very simple one1 totally destitute of the usual sculptured depth of arch within arch1 and of the profusion of statuary1 which are said to have adorned the original entrance4 ,this1 however1 has not produced a bad result in the view of the whole front4 ,commencing by solidity and simplicity at its base1 the pile only becomes ornamental at the first story1 where rows of small trefoil arches are carved round the buttresses2 while in the intermediate spaces are an oriel window in an ornamental arch1 and two narrow double arches4 ,the third compartment1 where the towers first rise above the body of the church1 offers a still richer display of ornament4 ,the two towers are here connected by a screen1 which masks the roof1 raising the apparent body of the faade an additional story4 ,this screen is very beautiful1 being composed of two ogival windows in the richest style1 with eight statues occupying the intervals of their lower mullions4 ,a fourth story1 equally rich1 terminates the towers1 on the summits of which are placed the two spires4 ,these are all that can be wished for the completion of such a whole4 ,they are1 ,i imagine1 not only unmatched1 but unapproached by any others1 in symmetry1 lightness1 and beauty of design4 ,the spire of ,strasburg is the only one ,i am acquainted with that may be allowed to enter into the comparison4 ,it is much larger1 placed at nearly double the elevation1 and looks as light as one of these2 but the symmetry of its outline is defective1 being uneven1 and producing the effect of steps4 ,and then it is alone1 and the absence of a companion gives the faade an unfinished appearance4 ,for these reasons ,i prefer the spires of ,burgos4 ,their form is hexagonal2 they are entirely hollow1 and unsupported internally4 ,the six sides are carved jour1 the design forming nine horizontal divisions1 each division presenting a different ornament on each of its six sides4 ,at the termination of these divisions1 each pyramid is surrounded near the summit by a projecting gallery with balustrades4 ,these appear to bind and keep together each airy fabric1 which1 everywhere transparent1 looks as though it required some such restraint1 to prevent its being instantaneously scattered by the winds4 ,on examining the interior of one of these spires1 it is a subject of surprise that they could have been so constructed as to be durable4 ,instead of walls1 you are surrounded by a succession of little balustrades1 one over the other1 converging towards the summit4 ,the space enclosed is exposed to all the winds1 and the thickness of the stones so slight as to have required their being bound together with iron cramps4 ,at a distance of a mile these spires appear as transparent as nets4 ,on entering the church by the western doors1 the view is interrupted1 as is usual in ,spain1 by a screen1 which1 crossing the principal nave at the third or fourth pillar1 forms the western limit of the choir2 the eastern boundary being the west side of the transept1 where there is an iron railing4 ,the space between the opposite side of the transept and the apse is the capilla mayor 7chief chapel71 in which is placed the high altar4 ,there are two lower lateral naves1 from east to west1 and beyond them a series of chapels4 ,the transept has no lateral naves4 ,some of the chapels are richly ornamented4 ,the first or westernmost1 on the north side1 in particular1 would be in itself a magnificent church4 ,it is called the ,chapel of ,santa ,tecla4 ,its dimensions are ninety-six feet in length1 by sixty-three in width1 and sixty high4 ,the ceiling1 and different altars1 are covered with a dazzling profusion of gilded sculpture4 ,the ceiling1 in particular1 is entirely hidden beneath the innumerable figures and ornaments of every sort of form1 although of questionable taste1 which the ravings of the extravagant style1 called in ,spain ,churriguesco 7after the architect who brought it into fashion71 could invent4 ,the next chapel--that of ,santa ,ana--is not so large1 but designed in far better taste4 ,it is ,gothic1 and dates from the fifteenth century4 ,here are some beautiful tombs1 particularly that of the founder of the chapel4 ,but the most attractive object is a picture1 placed at an elevation which renders difficult the appreciation of its merits without the aid of a glass1--a ,holy ,family1 by ,andrea del ,sarto4 ,it is an admirable picture2 possessing all the grace and simplicity1 combined with the fineness of execution1 of that artist4 ,the chapel immediately opposite 7on the south side7 contains some handsome tombs1 and another picture1 representing the ,virgin1 attributed by the cicerone of the place to ,michael ,angelo4 ,we next arrive at the newer part1 or centre of the building1 where four cylindrical piers of about twelve feet diameter1 with octagonal bases1 form a quadrangle1 and support the centre tower1 designed by ,felipe de ,borgoa4 ,these pillars are connected with each other by magnificent wrought brass railings1 which give entrance respectively1 westward to the choir1--on the east to the sanctuary1 or capilla mayor1--and north and south to the two ends of the transept4 ,above is seen the interior of the tower1 covered with a profusion of ornament1 but discordant with every other object within view4 ,illustration3 ,w4,f4 ,starling1 sc4 ,,transept ,,of ,,the ,,cathedral1 ,,burgos4 ,the high altar at the back of the great chapel is also the work of ,herrera4 ,it is composed of a series of rows of saints and apostles1 superposed one over the other1 until they reach the roof4 ,all are placed in niches adorned with gilding1 of which only partial traces remain4 ,the material of the whole is wood4 ,returning to either side-nave1 a few smaller chapels on the outside1 and opposite them the railings of the sanctuary1 conduct us to the back of the high altar1 opposite which is the eastern chapel1 called of the ,duke de ,frias1 or ,capilla del ,condestable4 ,illustration3 ,,sculpture ,,in ,,the ,,apse4 ,all this part of the edifice--,i mean1 from the transept eastward--is admirable1 both with regard to detail and to general effect4 ,the pillars are carved all round into niches1 containing statues or groups2 and the intervals between the six last1 turning round the apse1 are occupied by excellent designs1 sculptured in a hard white stone4 ,the subjects are1 the ,agony in the ,garden1 ,jesus bearing the ,cross1 the ,crucifixion1 the ,resurrection1 and the ,ascension4 ,the centre piece1 representing the ,crucifixion1 is the most striking4 ,the upper part contains the three sufferers in front2 and in the background a variety of buildings1 trees1 and other smaller objects1 supposed to be at a great distance4 ,in the foreground of the lower part are seen the officers and soldiers employed in the execution2 a group of females1 with ,st4 ,john supporting the ,virgin1 and a few spectators4 ,the costumes1 the expression1 the symmetry of the figures1 all contribute to the excellence of this piece of sculpture4 ,it would be difficult to surpass the exquisite grace displayed in the attitudes1 and flow of the drapery1 of the female group2 and the ,herculean limbs of the right-hand robber1 as he writhes in his torments1 and seems ready to snap the cords which retain his feet and arms1--the figure projecting in its entire contour from the surface of the background1--present an admirable model of corporeal expression and anatomical detail4 ,in clearing the space to make room for these sculptures1 the artist had to remove the tomb of a bishop1 whose career1 if the ancient chronique is to be depended on1 must have been rather singular4 ,the information1 it must be owned1 bears the appearance of having been transmitted by some contemporary annalist1 whose impartiality may have perhaps been biassed by some of the numerous incitements which operate upon courtiers4 ,don ,pedro ,fernandez de ,frias1 ,cardinal of ,spain1 ,bishop of ,osma and ,cuenca1 was1 it is affirmed1 of low parentage1 of base and licentious habits of life1 and of a covetous and niggardly disposition4 ,these defects1 however1 by no means diminished the high favour he enjoyed at the successive courts of ,henry the ,third and ,juan the ,second4 ,the ,bishop of ,segovia1 ,don ,juan de ,tordesillas1 happened by an unlucky coincidence to visit ,burgos during his residence there4 ,the characters of the two prelates were not of a nature to harmonise in the smallest degree1 and1 being thrown necessarily much in each other's way1 they gave loose occasionally to expressions more than bordering on the irreverent4 ,it was on one of these occasions1 that1 the eloquence of the ,cardinal ,bishop here interred being at default1 a lacquey of his followers came to his assistance1 and being provided with a palo1 or staff1 inflicted on the rival dignitary certain arguments ad humeros--in fact1 gave the ,bishop of ,segovia a severe drubbing4 ,the ,cardinal was on this occasion compelled to retire to ,italy4 ,turning our backs to the centre piece of sculpture last described1 we enter the ,capilla del ,condestable through a superb bronze railing4 ,in these railings the ,cathedral of ,burgos rivals that of ,seville1 compensating by number for the superior size and height of those contained in the latter church4 ,that of the chapel we are now entering entirely fills the entrance arch1 a height of about forty feet2 the helmet of a mounted knight in full armour1 intended to represent ,st4 ,andrew1 which crowns its summit1 nearly touching the keystone of the arch4 ,this chapel must be noticed in detail4 ,occupying at the extremity of the church a position answering to that of ,henry the ,seventh's ,chapel at ,westminster ,abbey1 it forms a tower of itself1 which on the outside harmonises with peculiar felicity with the three others1 and contributes to the apparent grandeur and real beauty of the exterior view4 ,the interior is magnificent1 although its plan and style1 being entirely different from those of ,henry the ,seventh's ,chapel1 prevent the comparison from going further4 ,its form is octagonal1 measuring about fifty feet in diameter1 by rather more than a hundred in height4 ,its style florid ,gothic of the fourteenth century4 ,the effect of its first view is enhanced by its being filled1 unlike the rest of the church1 with a blaze of light introduced through two rows of windows in the upper part4 ,two of the sides are furnished with recesses1 which form lesser chapels1 and in one of which there is a fine organ4 ,between the centre of the pavement and the principal altar1 a large square block of mixed marble covers the remains of the founders of the chapel1 and bears on its surface their recumbent figures executed in great perfection4#b ,this is the finest tomb in the cathedral4 ,the embroidery of the cushions1 the ornaments on the count's armour1 the gloves of the countess1 are among the details which merit particular notice amidst the beautiful execution of the whole4 ,the high altar of this chapel does not accord with the general effect1 being designed in the style of the renascimiento4 ,in the centre of it is nevertheless fixed a treasure that would compensate for worse defects4 ,a small circular medallion represents the ,virgin and ,child1 in an attitude very similar to that of the ,madonna della ,seggiola1 executed on porphyry4 ,this delicious little work1 of about nine inches in diameter1 forms the centre of attraction1 and is the most precious ornament of the chapel4 ,on the right hand1 near the altar1 a small doorway admits to the sacristy4 ,this contains several relics of the founders4 ,a small portable altar of ivory1 forming the base of a crucifix of about eighteen inches in height1 is an exquisite model of delicate workmanship4 ,here also has been treasured up a picture1 behind a glass1 and in a sort of wooden case2 a bequest likewise of the founders4 ,unfortunately they neglected to impart the name of its author4 ,the nebulous sort of uncertainty thus made to surround this relic has magnified its merits1 which might otherwise perhaps not have claimed particular notice1 to the most colossal dimensions4 ,they scarcely at last know what to say of it4 ,at the period of my first visit to ,burgos1 it was a ,leonardo da ,vinci2 but1 after a lapse of two years1 the same sacristan informed me that it was uncertain whether the painting was executed by ,raffaelle or ,leonardo1 although it was generally supposed to be by ,raffaelle2 and a notice1 published since1 gives the authority of an anonymous connaisseur1 who asserts it to be far superior to ,raffaelle's ,perle4 ,it is now consequently decided that it cannot be a ,leonardo1 and is scarcely bad enough for a ,raffaelle4 ,without venturing tantas componere lites1 ,i may be allowed to give my impression1 on an inspection as complete as the studied darkness of the apartment1 added to the glass and wooden case1 would permit4 ,it is a half-figure of the ,magdalene4 ,the execution is very elaborate and highly finished1 but there are evident defects in the drawing4 ,in colouring and manner it certainly reminds you of da ,vinci--of one of whose works it may probably be a copy2 but1 whatever it is1 it is easy to discover that it is not a ,raffaelle4 ,this chapel does not occupy the precise centre of the apse4 ,a line drawn from the middle of the western door through the nave would divide it into two unequal parts1 passing at a distance of nearly two yards from its centre4 ,an examination of the ground externally gives no clue to the cause of this irregularity1 by which the external symmetry of the edifice is rendered imperfect1 although in an almost imperceptible degree2 it must therefore be accounted for by the situation of the adjoining parochial chapel1 of more ancient construction1 with which it was not allowable to interfere1 and by the unwillingness of the founder to diminish the scale on which his chapel was planned4 ,before we leave the ,chapel del ,condestable1 one of its ceremonies deserves particular mention4 ,i allude to the missa de los carneros 7sheep-mass74 ,at early mass on ,all ,souls day1 a feast celebrated in this chapel with extraordinary pomp1 six sheep are introduced1 and made to stand on a large block of unpolished marble1 which has been left lying close to the tombs1 almost in the centre of the chapel2 near the six sheep are placed as many inflated skins of pigs1 resembling those usually filled with the wine of the country2 to these is added the quantity of bread produced from four bushels of wheat3 and all remain in view during the performance of high mass4 ,at the conclusion of the final response1 the sheep are removed from their pedestal1 and make for the chapel-gates1 through which they issue2 and urged by the voice of their driver1 the peculiar shrill whistle of ,spanish shepherds1 and by the more material argument of the staff1 proceed down the entire length of the cathedral to the music of the aforesaid whistle1 accompanied by their own bleatings and bells1 until they vanish through the great western portal4 ,returning to the transepts1 we find two objects worthy of notice4 ,the cathedral having been erected on uneven ground1 rising rapidly from south to north1 the entrance to the north transept opens at an elevation of nearly thirty feet from the pavement4 ,to reach this door there is an ornamental staircase1 of a sort of white stone1 richly carved in the renaissance style4 ,this door is never open1 a circumstance which causes no inconvenience2 the steps being so steep as to render them less useful than ornamental1 as long as any other exit exists4 ,a beautifully carved old door1 of a wood become perfectly black1 although not so originally1 gives access to the cloister from the east side of the south transept4 ,the interior of the arch which surmounts it is filled with sculpture4 ,a plain moulding runs round the top1 at the left-hand commencement of which is carved a head of the natural size1 clothed in a cowl4 ,illustration3 ,,head ,,of ,,saint ,,francis4#c ,the attention is instantly rivetted by this head3 it is not merely a masterpiece of execution4 ,added to the exquisite beauty and delicate moulding of the upper part of the face1 the artist has succeeded in giving to the mouth an almost superhuman expression4 ,this feature1 in spite of a profusion of hair which almost covers it1 lives and speaks4 ,a smile1 in which a barely perceptible but irresistible and1 as it were1 innate bitterness of satire and disdain modifies a wish of benevolence1 unites with the piercing expression of the eyes in lighting up the stone with a degree of intellect which ,i had thought beyond the reach of sculpture until ,i saw this head4 ,tradition asserts it to be a portrait of ,saint ,francis1 who was at ,burgos at the period of the completion of the cathedral2 and who1 being in the habit of examining the progress of the works1 afforded unconsciously a study to the sculptor4 ,the two sacristies are entered from the cloister3 one of them contains the portraits of all the bishops and archbishops of ,burgos4 ,communicating with this last is a room destined for the reception of useless lumber and broken ornaments4 ,here the cicerone directs your attention to an old half-rotten oaken chest1 fixed against the wall at a considerable height4 ,this relic is the famous ,coffre del ,cid1 the self-same piece of furniture immortalised in the anecdote related of the hero respecting the loan of money obtained on security of the supposed treasure it enclosed4 ,the lender of the money1 satisfied by the weight of the trunk1 and the chivalrous honour of its proprietor1 never saw its contents until shown them by the latter on the repayment of the loan3 they were then discovered to consist of stones and fragments of old iron4 ,one is disappointed on finding in this cathedral no more durable souvenir of the ,cid than his rat-corroded wardrobe4 ,his remains are preserved in the chapel of the ,ayuntamiento2 thither we will consequently bend our steps1 not forgetting to enjoy1 as we leave the church1 a long gaze at its elegant and symmetrical proportions4 ,it may be called an unique model of beauty of its particular sort1 especially when contemplated without being drawn into comparison with other edifices of a different class4 ,catalani is said1 on hearing ,sontag's performance1 to have remarked that she was la premire de son genre1 mais que son genre n'tait pas le premier4 ,could the cathedral of ,seville see that of ,burgos1 it would probably pronounce a similar judgment on its smaller rival4 ,the profusion of ornament1 the perfection of symmetry1 the completeness of finish1 produce an instantaneous impression that nothing is wanting in this charming edifice2 but any one who should happen to have previously seen that of ,seville cannot1 after the first moments of enthusiasm1 escape the comparison which forces itself on him1 and which is not in favour of this cathedral4 ,it is elegant1 but deficient in grandeur2 beautiful1 but wanting in majesty4 ,the stern and grand simplicity of the one1 thrown into the scales against the light1 airy1 and diminutive1 though graceful beauty of the other1 recalls the contrast drawn by ,milton between our first parents2 a contrast which1 applied to these churches1 must be considered favourable to the more majestic1 however the balance of preference may turn in the poem4 ,,letter ,v4 ,,tomb ,,of ,,the ,,cid4 ,,citadel4 ,burgos4 ,the ,ayuntamiento1 or ,town-hall1 presents one faade to the river1 and the other to the ,plaza ,mayor1 being built over the archway which forms the already mentioned entrance to the central portion of the city4 ,the building1 like other town-halls1 possesses an airy staircase1 a large public room1 and a few other apartments1 used for the various details of administration2 but nothing remarkable until you arrive at a handsomely ornamented saloon1 furnished with a canopied seat fronting a row of arm-chairs4 ,this is the room in which the municipal body hold their juntas4 ,it contains several portraits3 two or three of kings1 suspended opposite to an equal number of queens2 the two likenesses of the celebrated judges ,nuo ,rasura and ,lain ,calvo1 near which are seen the simple square oaken chairs from within the angular and hard embrace of which they administered the laws and government of ,castile2 a full-length of ,fernan ,gonzalez2 and lastly1 one of the ,cid4 ,owing to the singularity of this last portrait1 it is the first to attract attention4 ,the hero is represented in the most extraordinary of attitudes3 the head is thrown back1 and the face turned towards one side2 the legs in a sort of studied posture2 a drawn sword is in the right hand1 the point somewhat raised4 ,the general expression is that of a comic actor attempting an attitude of mock-heroic impertinence2 and is probably the result of an unattained object in the mind of the artist1 of producing that of fearless independence4 ,beyond this apartment is the ,chapel1 a plain1 not large room1 containing but two objects besides its very simple altar1 with its1 almost black1 silver candlesticks4 ,over the altar is a ,conception1 by ,murillo2 and1 in the centre of the chapel1 a highly polished and neatly ornamented funereal urn1 composed of walnut-wood1 contains the remains of the ,cid3 the urn stands on a pedestal4 ,on its two ends in letters of gold1 are inscriptions1 stating its contents1 and the date of its application to its present purpose4 ,i was told that the bones were contained in a leaden box1 but that a glass one was being prepared1 which1 on opening the lid of the urn1 would afford a view of the actual dust of the warrior4 ,the remains of the ,cid have only recently been conveyed to ,burgos from the monastery of ,san ,pedro de ,cardenas1 about four miles distant4 ,they had been preserved there ever since his funeral1 which took place in the presence of ,king ,alonzo the ,sixth1 and the two ,kings1 sons-in-law of the hero1 as soon as the body arrived from ,valencia4 ,this monastic retreat1 if dependence may be placed on the testimony of the ,cerberus of the ,alcalde1--the cicerone 7when duly propitiated7 of the municipal edifice1--did not turn out to be altogether a place of repose to the warrior4 ,according to this worthy1 an amusing interpreter of the popular local traditions1 the exploits performed subsequently to the hero's interment were such as almost to throw a shadow over those he enacted during his mortal existence4 ,one specimen will suffice4 ,some twenty thousand individuals1 including the monks of all the neighbouring monasteries1 were assembled in the church of ,san ,pedro1 and were listening to a sermon on the occasion of the annual festival in honour of the patron saint4 ,guided by curiosity1 a ,moor entered the church and mingled with the crowd4 ,after remaining during a short time motionless1 he approached a pillar1 against which was suspended a portrait of the ,cid1 for the purpose of examining the picture4 ,suddenly the figure was seen by all present1 whose testimony subsequently established the fact1 to grasp with the right hand the hilt of its sword1 and to uncover a few inches of the naked blade4 ,the ,moor instantly fell flat on the pavement1 and was found to be lifeless4 ,you would be surprised at the difficulty of forming even here1 in the midst of the scenes of his exploits1 a definite idea of this ,hercules of the ,middle ,ages4 ,for those who are satisfied with the orthodox histories of the monks1 he is without defects--a simple unsophisticated demi-god4 ,but there have been ,mahometan historians of ,spain4 ,these are universally acknowledged to have treated of all that concerned themselves with complete accuracy and impartiality2 and1 when this happens1 it should seem to be the best criterion1 in the absence of other proof1 of their faithful delineation of others' portraits4 ,however that may be1 here is an instance which will give you an idea of the various readings of the ,cid's history4 ,mariana relates1 that an ,arab expedition1 headed by five kings 7as he terms them7 of the adjoining states1 being signalized as having passed the mountains of ,oca1 and being occupied in committing depredations on the ,christian territory1 ,rodrigo suddenly took the field1 recovered all the booty1 and made all five kings prisoners4 ,all this being done by himself and his own retainers4 ,the kings he released after signing a treaty1 according to which they agreed to pay him an annual tribute4 ,it happened1 that on the occasion of the first payment of this1 ,rodrigo was at ,zamora1 whither he had accompanied the ,king of ,castile2 and he took an opportunity of receiving the ,arab messengers in presence of the court4 ,this was at least uncommon4 ,the messengers addressed him by the appellation of ,syd 7sir7 as they handed over the money4 ,ferdinand1 delighted with the prowess of his courtier1 expressed on this occasion the desire that he should retain the title of ,syd4 ,this anecdote undergoes1 in the hands of the ,arab writers1 a curious metamorphosis4 ,according to them1 the expression ,syd was employed1 not by tributary kings1 but by certain chiefs of that creed whose pay the ,catholic hero was receiving in return for aid lent against the ,christians of ,aragon4 ,they attribute1 moreover1 to this mirror of chivalry1 on the surrender of ,valencia1 a conduct by no means heroic--not to say worthy a highwayman4 ,he accepted1 as they relate1 the pay of the ,emyr of ,valencia to protect the city against the ,almoravides1 who at that period were extending their conquests all over ,moorish ,spain4 ,the ,cid was repulsed1 and the town taken4 ,after this defeat he shut himself up in a castle1 since called the ,pea del ,cid 7,rock of the ,cid71 and there waited his opportunity4 ,on the departure of the conquerors from the city1 in which they left an insufficient garrison1 he hastened down at the head of his campeadores1 and speedily retook ,valencia4 ,the ,cadi1 ,ahmed ben ,djahhaf1 left in command of the place1 had1 however1 only surrendered on faith of a capitulation couched in the most favourable terms4 ,it was even stipulated that he should retain his post of governor2 but no sooner was the ,cid master of the place than he caused the old man to be arrested and put to the torture1 in order to discover from him the situation of a treasure supposed to be concealed in the ,alcazar2 after which1 finding he would not speak1 or had nothing to reveal1 he had him burned on the public place4 ,the ,citadel of ,burgos1 at present an insignificant fortress1 was formerly a place of considerable importance1 and commanded the surrounding country2 especially on the side on which the town--placed at the foot of the eminence--lay beneath its immediate protection1 and could listen unscathed to the whizzing of the deadly missiles of war as they passed over its roofs4 ,during the various wars of which ,castile has been the theatre at different periods1 this citadel has1 from its important position1 occupied the main attention of contending armies2 and1 from forming a constant point-de-mire to attacking troops1 has finally been almost annihilated4 ,the principal portion of the present buildings is of a modern date1 but1 although garrisoned1 the fortress cannot be said to be restored4 ,the extent of the town was greater than at present1 and included a portion of the declivity which exists between the present houses and the walls of the fortress4 ,at the two extremities of the town-side of the hill1 immediately above the level of the highest-placed houses now existing1 two ,arab gate-ways give access through the ancient town-walls1 which ascended the hill from the bottom4 ,between these there exists a sort of flat natural terrace1 above the town1 and running along its whole length1 on to which some of the streets open4 ,on this narrow level stood formerly a part1 probably the best part1 of the city1 which has shared the fate of its protecting fortress2 but1 not being rebuilt1 it is now an empty space1--or would be so1 but for the recent erection of a cemetery1 placed at about half the distance between the two extremities4 ,before1 however1 the lapse of years had worn away the last surviving recollections of these localities1 some worshipper of by-gone glory succeeded in discovering1 on the now grass-grown space1 the situations once occupied by the respective abodes of the ,cid and of ,fernan ,gonzalez4 ,on these spots monuments have been erected4 ,that of ,gonzalez is a handsome arch1 the piers supporting which are each faced with two pillars of the ,doric order on either side2 above the cornice there is a balustrade1 over which four small obelisks correspond with the respective pillars4 ,the arch is surmounted by a sort of pedestal1 on which is carved an inscription1 stating the object of the monument4 ,there is nothing on the top of the pedestal1 which appears to have been intended for the reception of a statue4 ,the monument in memory of the ,cid is more simple4 ,it consists of three small pyramids in a row1 supported on low bases or pedestals2 that in the centre higher than the other two1 but not exceeding 7inclusive of the base7 twenty feet from the ground4 ,on the lower part of the centre stone is carved an appropriate inscription1 abounding in ellipsis1 after the manner usually adopted in ,spain4 ,it is not surprising that these monuments1 together with the memory of the events brought about by the men in whose honour they have been erected1 should be fast hastening to a level with the desolation immediately surrounding them4 ,the present political circumstances of ,spain are not calculated to favour the retrospection of by-gone glories4 ,scarcely is time allowed--so rapidly are executed the transmutations of the modern political diorama--for examining the events1 or even for recovery from the shock1 of each succeeding revolution2 nor force remaining to the exhausted organs of admiration or of horror1 to be exercised on almost forgotten acts1 since those performed before the eyes of the living generation have equalled or surpassed them in violence and energy4 ,the arch of ,fernan ,gonzalez1 if not speedily restored1 7which is not to be expected17 runs the risk1 from its elevation and want of solidity1 of being the first of the two monuments to crumble to dust2 a circumstance which1 although not destitute of an appearance of justice1--from the fact of the hero it records having figured on an earlier page of ,castilian annals1--would nevertheless occasion regret to those who prefer history to romance1 and who estimate essential services rendered to the state1 as superior to mere individual clat1 however brilliant4 ,you will not probably object to the remainder of this letter being monopolized by this founder of the independence of ,castile2 the less so1 from the circumstance of the near connection existing between his parentage and that of the city we are visiting1 and which owes to him so much of its celebrity4 ,should you not be in a humour to be lectured on history1 you are at all events forewarned1 and may wait for the next despatch4 ,unlike many of the principal towns of the ,peninsula1 which content themselves with no more modern descent than from ,nebuchadnezzar or ,hercules1 ,burgos modestly accepts a paternity within the domain of probability4 ,a ,german1 ,nuo ,belchides1 married1 in the reign of ,alonzo the ,great1 ,king of ,oviedo1 a daughter of the second ,count of ,castile1 ,don ,diego ,porcellos4 ,this noble prevailed on his father-in-law to assemble the inhabitants of the numerous villages dispersed over the central part of the province1 and to found a city1 to which he gave the ,german name of city with a ,spanish termination4 ,it was ,don ,fruela ,,iii41 ,king of ,leon1 whose acts of injustice and cruelty caused so violent an exasperation1 that the nobles of ,castile1 of whom there existed several of a rank little inferior to that of the titular ,count of the province1 threw up their allegiance1 and selected two of their own body1 ,nuo ,rasura and ,lain ,calvo1 to whom they intrusted the supreme authority1 investing them with the modest title of ,judges1 by way of a check1 lest at any future time they should be tempted1 upon the strength of a higher distinction1 to make encroachments on the common liberties4 ,the first of the two judges1 ,nuo ,rasura1 was the son of the above-mentioned ,nuo ,belchides and his wife1 ,sulla ,bella 7daughter of ,diego ,porcellos71 and grandfather of ,fernan ,gonzalez4 ,his son ,gonzalo ,nuo1 ,fernan's father1 succeeded on his death to the dignity of ,judge of ,castile1 and became extremely popular1 owing to his affability1 and winning urbanity of deportment in his public character4 ,he established an academy in his palace for the education of the sons of the nobles1 who were instructed under his own superintendence in all the accomplishments which could render them distinguished in peace or in war4 ,the maternal grandfather of ,fernan ,gonzalez was ,nuo ,fernandez1 one of the ,counts of ,castile who were treacherously seized and put to death by ,don ,ordoo1 ,king of ,leon4 ,the young ,count of ,castile is described as having been a model of elegance4 ,to singular personal beauty he added an unmatched proficiency in all the exercises then in vogue1 principally in arms and equitation4 ,these accomplishments1 being added to much affability and good-nature1 won him the affections of the young nobles1 who strove to imitate his perfections1 while they enjoyed the festivities of his palace4 ,it appears that1 notwithstanding the rebellion1 and appointment of ,judges1 ,castile had subsequently professed allegiance to the ,kings of ,leon2 for a second revolt was organized in the reign of ,don ,ramiro1 at the head of which we find ,fernan ,gonzalez4 ,on this occasion1 feeling themselves too feeble to resist the royal troops1 the rebels had recourse to a ,moorish chief1 ,aecipha4 ,the ,king1 however1 speedily drove the ,moors across the frontier1 and succeeded in capturing the principal revolters4 ,after a short period these were released1 on the sole condition of taking the oath of allegiance2 and the peace was subsequently sealed by the marriage of a daughter of ,gonzalez with ,don ,ordoo1 eldest son of ,ramiro1 and heir to the kingdom4 ,the ,count of ,castile was1 however1 too powerful a vassal to continue long on peaceable terms with a sovereign1 an alliance with whose family had more than ever smoothed the progressive ascent of his pretensions4 ,soon after the accession of his son-in-law ,don ,ordoo1 he entered into an alliance against him with the ,king of ,navarre4 ,this declaration of hostility was followed by the divorce of ,fernan's daughter by the ,king1 who immediately entered into a second wedlock4 ,the successor of this monarch1 ,don ,sancho1 surnamed the ,fat1 was indebted for a large portion of his misfortunes and vicissitudes to the hostility of the ,count of ,castile4 ,don ,ordoo1 the pretender to his throne1 son of ,alonzo surnamed the ,monk1 with the aid of ,gonzalez1 whose daughter ,urraca1 the repudiated widow of the former sovereign1 he married1 took easy possession of the kingdom1 driving ,don ,sancho for shelter to the court of his uncle the then ,king of ,navarre4 ,it is worth mentioning1 that ,king ,sancho took the opportunity of his temporary expulsion from his states1 to visit the court of ,abderahman at ,cordova1 and consult the ,arab physicians1 whose reputation for skill in the removal of obesity had extended over all ,spain4 ,history relates that the treatment they employed was successful1 and that ,don ,sancho1 on reascending his throne1 had undergone so complete a reduction as to be destitute of all claims to his previously acquired sobriquet4 ,all these events1 and the intervals which separated them1 fill a considerable space of time2 and the establishment of the exact dates would be a very difficult1 if not an impossible1 undertaking4 ,various wars were carried on during this time by ,gonzalez1 and alliances formed and dissolved4 ,several more or less successful campaigns are recorded against the ,moors of ,saragoza1 and of other neighbouring states4 ,the alliance with ,navarre had not been durable4 ,in #iei ,don ,garcia1 ,king of that country1 fought a battle with ,fernan ,gonzalez1 by whom he was taken prisoner1 and detained in ,burgos thirteen months4 ,the conquest of the independence of ,castile is related in the following manner4 ,in the year #ieh1 the ,cortes of the kingdom were assembled at ,leon1 whence the ,king forwarded a special invitation to the ,count of ,castile1 requiring his attendance1 and that of the ,grandees of the province1 for deliberation on affairs of high importance to the state4 ,gonzalez1 although suspicious of the intentions of the sovereign1 unable to devise a suitable pretext for absenting himself1 repaired to ,leon1 attended by a considerable cortge of nobles4 ,the ,king went forth to receive him2 and it is related1 that refusing to accept a present1 offered by ,gonzalez1 of a horse and a falcon1 both of great value1 a price was agreed on2 with the condition that1 in case the ,king should not pay the money on the day named in the agreement1 for each successive day that should intervene until the payment1 the sum should be doubled4 ,nothing extraordinary took place during the remainder of the visit2 and the ,count1 on his return to ,burgos1 married ,doa ,sancha1 sister of the ,king of ,navarre4 ,it is probable that some treachery had been intended against ,gonzalez1 similar to that put in execution on a like occasion previous to his birth1 when the ,counts of ,castile were seized and put to death in their prison2 for1 not long after1 a second invitation was accepted by the ,count1 who was now received in a very different manner4 ,on his kneeling to kiss the ,king's hand1 ,don ,sancho burst forth with a volley of reproaches1 and1 repulsing him with fury1 gave orders for his immediate imprisonment4 ,it is doubtful what fate was reserved for him by the hatred of the ,queen-mother1 who had instigated the ,king to the act of treachery1 in liquidation of an ancient personal debt of vengeance of her own1 had not the ,countess of ,castile1 ,doa ,sancha1 undertaken his liberation4 ,upon receiving the news of her husband's imprisonment1 she allowed a short period to elapse1 in order to mature her plan1 and at the same time lull suspicion of her intentions4 ,she then repaired to ,leon1 on pretext of a pilgrimage to ,santiago1 on the route to which place ,leon is situated4 ,she was received by ,king ,sancho with distinguished honours1 and obtained permission to visit her husband1 and to pass a night in his prison4 ,the following morning1 ,gonzalez1 taking advantage of early twilight1 passed the prison-doors in disguise of the ,countess1 and1 mounting a horse which was in readiness1 escaped to ,castile4 ,this exploit of ,doa ,sancha does not belong to the days of romance and chivalry alone3 it reminds us of the still more difficult task1 accomplished by the beautiful ,winifred1 ,countess of ,nithisdale1 who1 eight centuries later1 effected the escape of the rebel ,earl1 her husband1 from the ,tower1 in a precisely similar manner2 thus rescuing him from the tragic fate of his friends and fellow-prisoners1 the ,lords ,derwentwater and ,kenmure4 ,doa ,sancha obtained her liberty without difficulty1 being even complimented by the ,king on her heroism1 and provided with a brilliant escort on her return to ,castile4 ,gonzalez contented himself with claiming the price agreed upon for the horse and falcon2 and--the ,king not seeming inclined to liquidate the debt1 which1 owing to the long delay1 amounted already to an enormous sum1 or looking upon it as a pretext for hostility1 the absence of which would not prevent the ,count of ,castile1 in his then state of exasperation1 from having recourse to arms--passed the frontier of ,leon at the head of an army1 and1 laying waste the country1 approached gradually nearer to the capital4 ,at length ,don ,sancho sent his treasurer to clear up the account1 but it was found that the debt exceeded the whole amount of the royal treasure2 upon which ,gonzalez claimed and obtained1 on condition of the withdrawal of his troops1 a formal definitive grant of ,castile1 without reservation1 to himself and his descendants4 ,before we quit ,burgos for its environs1 one more edifice requires our notice4 ,it is a fountain1 occupying the centre of the space which faces the principal front of the cathedral4 ,this little antique monument charms1 by the quaint symmetry of its design and proportions1 and perhaps even by the terribly mutilated state of the four fragments of ,cupids1 which1 riding on the necks of the same number of animals so maltreated as to render impossible the discovery of their race1 form projecting angles1 and support the basin on their shoulders4 ,four mermaids1 holding up their tails1 so as not to interfere with the operations of the ,cupids1 ornament the sides of the basin1 which are provided with small apertures for the escape of the water2 the top being covered by a flat circular stone1 carved around its edge4 ,this stone1--a small1 elegantly shaped pedestal1 which surmounts it1--and the other portions already described1 are nearly black1 probably from antiquity2 but on the pedestal stands a little marble virgin1 as white as snow4 ,this antique figure harmonises by its mutilation with the rest1 although injured in a smaller degree2 and at the same time adds to the charm of the whole1 by the contrast of its dazzling whiteness with the dark mass on which it is supported4 ,the whole is balanced on the capital of a pillar1 of a most original form1 which appears immediately above the surface of a sheet of water enclosed in a large octagonal basin4 ,illustration3 ,,fountain ,,of ,,santa ,,maria4 ,,letter ,,vi4 ,,cartuja ,,de ,,miraflores4 ,,convent ,,of ,,las ,,huelgas4 ,burgos4 ,the ,chartreuse of ,miraflores1 situated to the east of the city1 half-way in the direction of the above-mentioned monastery of ,san ,pedro de ,cardeas1 crowns the brow of an eminence1 which1 clothed with woods towards its base1 slopes gradually until it reaches the river4 ,this spot is the most picturesque to be found in the environs of ,burgos1--a region little favoured in that respect4 ,the view1 extending right and left1 follows the course of the river1 until it is bounded on the west by the town1 and on the east by a chain of mountains1 a branch of the ,sierra of ,oca4 ,henry the ,third1 grandfather of ,isabel the ,catholic1 made choice of this position for the erection of a palace2 the only remnant of it now existing is the church1 which has since become the inheritance of the ,carthusian monks1 the successors of its royal founder4 ,the late revolution1 after sparing the throne of ,spain1 displayed a certain degree of logic1 if not in all its acts1 at least in sparing1 likewise1 two or three of the religious establishments1 under the protection of which the principal royal mausoleums found shelter and preservation4 ,the great ,chartreuse of ,xeres contained probably no such palladium1 for it was among the first of the condemned3 its lands and buildings were confiscated2 and its treasures of art1 and all portable riches1 dispersed1 as likewise its inhabitants1 in the direction of all the winds4 ,in ,england the name of ,xeres is only generally known in connection with one of the principal objects of necessity1 which furnish the table of the gastronome2 but in ,andalucia the name of ,xeres de la ,frontera calls up ideas of a different sort4 ,it is dear to the wanderer in ,spain1 whose recollections love to repose on its picturesque position1 its sunny skies1 its delicious fruits1 its amiable and lively population1 and lastly on its once magnificent monastery1 and the treasures of art it contained4 ,the ,prior of that monastery has been removed to the ,cartuja of ,burgos1 where he presides over a community1 reduced to four monks1 who subsist almost entirely on charity4 ,this amiable and gentleman-like individual1 in whom the monk has in no degree injured the man of the world1--although a large estate1 abandoned for the cloister1 proved sufficiently the sincerity of his religious professions1--had well deserved a better fate than to be torn in his old age from his warm ,andalucian retreat1 and transplanted to the rudest spot in the whole ,peninsula1 placed at an elevation of more than four thousand feet above the level of the ,atlantic1 and visited up to the middle of ,june by snow-storms4 ,at the moment ,i am writing1 this innocent victim of reform is extended on a bed of sickness1 having only recently escaped with his life from an attack1 during which he was given over4 ,this ,cartuja possesses more than the historical reminiscences with which it is connected1 to attract the passing tourist4 ,it owes its prolonged existence to the possession of an admirable work of art1--the tomb of ,juan the ,second and his ,queen ,isabel1 which stands immediately in front of the high altar of the church4 ,this living mass of alabaster1 the work of ,gil de ,silo1 son of the celebrated ,diego1 presents in its general plan the form of a star4 ,it turns one of its points to the altar4 ,its mass1 or thickness from the ground to the surface1 measures about six feet2 and this is consequently the height at which are laid the two recumbent figures4 ,illustration3 ,n4 ,a4 ,wells4 deb4 ,w4 ,i4 ,starling1 #hd ,,interior ,,of ,,the ,,church ,,of ,,miraflores1 ,,near ,,burgos4 ,it is impossible to conceive a work more elaborate than the details of the costumes of the ,king and ,queen4 ,the imitation of lace and embroidery1 the exquisite delicacy of the hands and features1 the infinitely minute carving of the pillows1 the architectural railing by which the two statues are separated1 the groups of sporting lions and dogs placed against the foot-boards1 and the statues of the four ,evangelists1 seated at the four points of the star which face the cardinal points of the compass1--all these attract first the attention as they occupy the surface2 but they are nothing to the profusion of ornament lavished on the sides4 ,the chisel of the artist has followed each retreating and advancing angle of the star1 filling the innermost recesses with life and movement4 ,it would be endless to enter into a detailed enumeration of all this4 ,it is composed of lions and lionesses1 panthers1 dogs1--crouching1 lying1 sitting1 rampant1 and standing2 of saints1 male and female1 and personifications of the cardinal virtues4 ,these figures are represented in every variety of posture1--some standing on pedestals1 and others seated on beautifully wrought arm-chairs1 but all enclosed respectively in the richest ,gothic tracery1 and under cover of their respective niches4 ,were there no other object of interest at ,burgos1 this tomb would well repay the traveller for a halt of a few days1 and a country walk4 ,at the opposite side of the town may be seen the royal convent of ,las ,huelgas2 but as the nuns reserve to themselves the greater part of the church1 including the royal tombs1 which are said to be very numerous1 no one can penetrate to satisfy his curiosity4 ,it is1 however1 so celebrated an establishment1 and of such easy access from the town1 that a sight of what portions of the buildings are accessible deserves the effort of the two hundred yards' walk which separates it from the river promenade4 ,this ,cistercian convent was founded towards the end of the twelfth century by ,alonzo the ,eighth1--the same who won the famous battle of the ,navas de ,tolosa4 ,it occupies the site of the pleasure-grounds of a royal retreat1 as is indicated by the name itself4 ,in its origin it was destined for the reception1 exclusively1 of princesses of the blood royal4 ,it was consequently designed on a scale of peculiar splendour4 ,of the original buildings1 however1 only sufficient traces remain to confirm the records of history1 but not to convey an adequate idea of their magnificence4 ,what with the depredations of time1 the vicissitudes of a situation in the midst of provinces so given to contention1 and repeated alterations1 it has evidently1 as far as regards the portions to a view of which admission can be obtained1 yielded almost all claims to identity with its ancient self4 ,the entire church1 with the exception of a small portion partitioned off at the extremity1 and containing the high altar1 is appropriated to the nuns1 and fitted up as a choir4 ,it is very large2 the length1 of which an estimate may be formed externally1 appearing to measure nearly three hundred feet4 ,it is said this edifice contains the tomb of the founder1 surrounded by forty others of princesses4 ,the entrance to the public portion consists of a narrow vestibule1 in which are several antique tombs4 ,they are of stone1 covered with ,gothic sculpture1 and appear1 from the richness of their ornaments1 to have belonged also to royalty4 ,they are stowed away1 and half built into the wall1 as if there had not been room for their reception4 ,the convent is said to contain handsome cloisters1 courts1 chapter-hall1 and other state apartments1 all of a construction long subsequent to its foundation4 ,the whole is surrounded by a complete circle of houses1 occupied by its various dependants and pensioners4 ,these are enclosed from without by a lofty wall1 and face the centre edifice1 from which they are separated by a series of large open areas4 ,their appearance is that of a small town1 surrounding a cathedral and palace4 ,the convent of the ,huelgas takes precedence of all others in ,spain4 ,the abbess and her successors were invested by the sovereigns of ,leon and ,castile with especial prerogatives1 and with a sort of authority over all convents within those kingdoms4 ,her possessions were immense1 and she enjoyed the sovereign sway over an extensive district1 including several convents1 thirteen towns1 and about fifty villages4 ,in many respects her jurisdiction resembles that of a bishop4 ,the following is the formula which heads her official acts3 ,we1 ,doa 4441 by the grace of ,god and of the ,holy ,apostolic ,see1 ,abbess of the royal monastery of ,las ,huelgas near to the city of ,burgos1 order of the ,cister1 habit of our father ,san ,bernardo1 ,mistress1 ,superior1 ,prelate1 ,mother1 and lawful spiritual and temporal ,administrator of the said royal monastery1 and its hospital called 'the ,king's ,hospital1' and of the convents1 churches1 and hermitages of its filiation1 towns and villages of its jurisdiction1 lordship1 and vassalage1 in virtue of ,apostolic bulls and concessions1 with all sorts of jurisdiction1 proper1 almost episcopal1 nullius diocesis1 and with royal privileges1 since we exercise both jurisdictions1 as is public and notorious1 c4 ,the hospital alluded to gives its name to a village1 about a quarter of a mile distant1 called ,hospital del ,rey4 ,this village is still in a sort of feudal dependance on the abbess1 and is the only remaining source of revenue to the convent1 having been recently restored by a decree of ,queen ,isabella2 for the royal blood flowing in the veins of the present abbess had not exempted her convent from the common confiscation decreed by the revolution4 ,the hospital1 situated in the centre of the village1 is a handsome edifice4 ,the whole place is surrounded by a wall1 similar to that which encloses the convent and its immediate dependances1 and the entrance presents a specimen of much architectural beauty4 ,it forms a small quadrangle1 ornamented with an elegant arcade1 and balustrades of an original design4 ,,letter ,,vii4 ,,route ,,to ,,madrid4 ,,museo4 ,toledo4 ,the route from ,burgos to ,madrid presents few objects of interest4 ,the country is dreary and little cultivated2 indeed1 much of it is incapable of culture4 ,for those who are unaccustomed to ,spanish routes1 there may1 indeed1 be derived some amusement from the inns1 of which some very characteristic specimens lie in their way4 ,the ,diligence halts for the night at the ,venta de ,juanilla1 a solitary edifice situated at the foot of the last or highest tage of the ,somo ,sierra1 in order to leave the principal ascent for the cool of early dawn4 ,the building is seen from a considerable distance1 and looks large2 but is found1 on nearer approach1 to be a straggling edifice of one story only4 ,it is a modern inn1 and differs in some essential points from the ancient ,spanish posada1--perfect specimens of which are met with at ,briviesca and ,burgos4 ,in these the vestibule is at the same time a cow-shed1 sheepfold1 stable1 pigsty1--in fact1 a spacious ,noah's ,ark1 in which are found specimens of all living animals1 that is1 of all sizes1 down to the most minute2 but for the purification of which it would be requisite that the entire flood should pass within1 instead of on its outside4 ,the original ark1 moreover1 possessed the advantage of windows1 the absence of which causes no small embarrassment to those who have to thread so promiscuous a congregation1 in order to reach the staircase2 once at the summit of which1 it must be allowed1 one meets with cleanliness1 and a certain degree of comfort4 ,the ,venta de ,juanilla1 on the ,somo ,sierra1 is a newish1 clean-looking habitation1 especially the interior1 where one meets with an excellent supper1 and may feast the eyes on the sight of a printed card1 hanging on the wall of the dining-room1 announcing that luxury of exotic gastronomy--,champagne--at three crowns a bottle3 none were bold enough that evening to ask for a specimen4 ,there is less of the exotic in the bed-room arrangements2 in fact1 the building appears to have been constructed by the ,diligence proprietors to meet the immediate necessity of the occasion4 ,the ,madrid road being served by two ,diligences1 one1 leaving the capital1 meets at this point1 on its first night1 the other1 which approaches in the contrary direction4 ,in consequence of this arrangement1 the edifice is provided with exactly four dormitories1--two male1 and two female4 ,nor is this the result of an intention to diminish the numbers quartered in each male or female apartment2 on the contrary1 two rooms would have answered the purpose better than four1 but for the inconvenience and confusion which would have arisen from the denizens of the ,diligence destined to start at a later hour being aroused from their slumbers1 and perhaps induced to depart by mistake1 at the signal for calling the travellers belonging to the earlier conveyance1--the one starting at two o'clock in the morning1 and the other at three4 ,on the occasion of my bivouaque in this curious establishment1 an ,english couple1 recently married1 happened to be among the number of my fellow-sufferers2 and the lady's report of the adventures of the female dormitory of our ,diligence afforded us sufficient amusement to enliven the breakfast on the other side of the mountain4 ,it appeared1 that1 during the hustling of the males into their enclosure1 a fond mother1 moved by ,heaven knows what anxious apprehensions1 had succeeded in abstracting from the herd her son1 a tender youth of fourteen4 ,whether or not she expected to smuggle1 without detection1 this contraband article into the female pen we could not determine4 ,if she did1 she reckoned somewhat independently of her host2 for on a fellow-traveller entering in the dark1 and groping about for a considerable time in search of an unoccupied nest1 a sudden exclamation aroused the fatigued sleepers1 followed by loud complaints against those who had admitted an interloper to this holy of holies of feminine promiscuousness1 to the exclusion of one of its lawful occupants4 ,the dispute ran high2 but it must be added to the already numerous proofs of the superior energy proceeding from aroused maternal feelings1 that the intruder was maintained in his usurped resting-place by his determined parent1 notwithstanding the discontent naturally caused by such a proceeding4 ,we have now reached the centre of these provinces1 the destinies of which have offered to ,europe so singular an example of political vicissitude4 ,it is an attractive occupation1 in studying the history of this country1 to watch the progress of the state1 the ancient capital of which we have just visited1--a province which1 from being probably the rudest and poorest of the whole ,peninsula1 became the most influential1 the wealthiest1 the focus of power1 as it is geographically the centre of ,spain1--and to witness its constantly progressive advance1 as it gradually drew within the range of its influence all the surrounding states2 exemplifying the dogged perseverance of the ,spanish character1 which1 notwithstanding repeated defeat1 undermined the ,arab power by imperceptible advances1 and eventually ridded the ,peninsula of its long-established lords4 ,it is interesting to thread the intricate narrative of intermarriages1 treaties1 wars1 alliances1 and successions1 interspersed with deeds of heroic chivalry and of blackest treachery1 composing the annals of the different northern states of ,spain2 until at length1 the ,christian domination having been borne onward by successive advantages nearly to the extreme southern shores of the ,peninsula1 a marriage unites the two principal kingdoms1 and leads to the subjection of all ,spain1 as at present1 under one monarch4 ,it is still more attractive to repair subsequently to the country itself2 and from this central1 pyramidal summit--elevated by the hand of ,nature to a higher level than the rest of the ,peninsula2 its bare and rugged surface exposed to all the less genial influences of the elements1 and crowned by its modern capital1 looking down in all directions1 like a feudal castle on the fairer and more fertile regions subject to its dominion1 and for the protection of which it is there proudly situated1--to take a survey of this extraordinary country1 view the localities immortalized by the eventful passages of its history1 and muse on its still varying destinies4 ,madrid has in fact already experienced threatening symptoms of the insecurity of this feudal tenure1 as it were1 in virtue of which it enjoys the supreme rank4 ,having no claim to superiority derived from its commerce1 the fertility of its territory1 the facility of its means of communication and intercourse with the other parts of the kingdom or with foreign states1--nothing1 in fact1 but its commanding and central position1 and the comparatively recent choice made of it by the sovereigns for a residence2 it has seen itself rivalled1 and at length surpassed in wealth and enterprize1 by ,barcelona1 and its right to be continued as the seat of government questioned and attacked4 ,its fall is probably imminent1 should some remedy not be applied before the intermittent revolutionary fever1 which has taken possession of the country1 makes further advances1 or puts on chronic symptoms2 but its fate will be shared by the power to which it owes its creation4 ,no residence in ,europe bears a prouder and more monarchical aspect than ,madrid1 nor is better suited for the abode of the feudal pomp and etiquette of the most magnificent--in its day--of ,european courts3 but riding and country sports have crossed the ,channel1 and are endeavouring to take root in ,france2 fresco-painting has invaded ,england2 in ,sicily marble porticoes have been painted to imitate red bricks2 and a ,constitutional monarchy is being erected in ,spain4 ,spaniards are not imitators1 and cannot change their nature1 although red bricks should become the materials of ,italian palazzi1 ,frenchmen ride after fox-hounds1 and ,englishmen be metamorphosed to ,michael ,angelos4 ,the ,alcazar of ,madrid1 commanding from its windows thirty miles of royal domains1 including the ,escorial and several other royal residences1 is not destined to become the abode of a monarch paid to receive directions from a loquacious and corrupt house of deputies1--the utmost result to be obtained from forcing on states a form of government unsuited to their character4 ,if the ,spanish reigning family1 after having settled their quarrel with regard to the succession1 7if ever they do so17 are compelled to accept a 7so-called7 ,constitutional form of government1 with their knowledge of the impossibility of its successful operation1 they will probably endeavour1 in imitation of the highly gifted sovereign of their neighbours1 to stifle it1 and to administrate in spite of it2 until1 either wanting the talent and energy necessary for the maintenance of this false position1 or their subjects1 as may be expected1 getting impatient at finding themselves mystified1 a total overthrow will terminate the experiment4 ,i am aware of the criticism to which this opinion would be exposed in many quarters2 ,i already hear the contemptuous upbraidings1 similar to those with which the exquisite1 exulting in an unexceptionable wardrobe1 lashes the culprit whose shoulders are guilty of a coat of the previous year's fashion4 ,we are told that the tendency of minds1 the progress of intellect1 the spirit of the age1--all which1 translated into plain language1 mean 7if they mean anything7 the fashion1--require that nations should provide themselves each with a new ,liberal government2 claiming1 in consideration of the fashionable vogue and the expensive nature of the article1 its introduction 7unlike other ,british manufactures7 duty-free4 ,but it ought first to be established1 whether these larger interests of humanity are amenable to the sceptre of so capricious a ruler as the fashion4 ,it appears to me1 that nations should be allowed to adapt their government to their respective characters1 dispositions1 habits of life1 and traditions4 ,all these are more dependant than is supposed by those who possess not the habit of reflection1 on the race1 the position1 the soil and climate each has received from nature1 which1 by the influence they have exercised on their habits and dispositions1 have fitted them each for a form of constitution equally appropriate to no other people2 since no two nations are similarly circumstanced1 not only in all these respects1 but even in any one of them4 ,what could be more ,liberal than the monarchy of ,spain up to the accession of the ,bourbon dynasty8 the kings never reigning but by the consent of their subjects1 and on the condition of unvarying respect for their privileges2 but never1 when once seated on the throne1 checked and embarrassed in carrying through the measures necessary for the administration of the state4 ,the monarch was a responsible but a free monarch until these days1 when an attempt is being made to deprive him both of freedom of action and responsibility--almost of utility1 and to render him a tool in the hands of a constantly varying succession of needy advocates or military parvenus1 whom the chances of civil war or the gift of declamation have placed in the way of disputing the ministerial salaries1 without having been able to furnish either their hearts with the patriotism1 or their heads with the capacity1 requisite for the useful and upright administration of the empire4 ,in ,spain1 the advocates of continual change1 in most cases in which personal interest is not their moving spring1 hope to arrive ultimately at a republic4 ,now1 no one more than myself admires the theories of ,constitutional governments1 of universal political power and of republicanism3 the last system would be the best of all1 were it only for the equality it is to establish4 ,but how are men to be equalised by the manufacturers of a government8 ,how are the ignorant and uneducated to be furnished with legislative capacity1 or the poor or unprincipled armed against the seductions of bribery8 ,it is not1 unfortunately1 in any one's power to accomplish these requisite preliminary operations2 without the performance of which1 these plausible theories will ever lose their credit when brought to the test of experiment4 ,how is a republic to be durable without the previous solution of the problem of the equalisation of human capacities8 ,in some countries it may be almost attained for a time2 in others1 never put in motion for an instant4 ,no one more than myself abhors tyranny and despotism2 but1 after hearing and reading all the charges laid at the door of ,absolutism during the last quarter of a century1 ,i am at a loss to account for the still greater evils and defects1 existing in ,constitutional states1 having been overlooked in the comparison4 ,the subject is far less free in ,france than in the absolute states of ,germany3 and other appropriate comparisons might be made which would bring us still nearer home4 ,i would ask the advocates for putting in practice a republican form of government1 and by way of comparing the two extremes1 whether all the harm the ,emperors of ,russia have ever done1 or are likely to do until the end of the world1--according to whatever sect the date of that event be calculated1--will not knock under to one week of the exploits of the ,french republicans of the last century8 ,and if we carry on the observation to the consequences of that revolution1 until we arrive at the decimation of that fine country under the military despotism which was necessarily its offspring1 we shall not find my argument weakened4 ,i entreat your pardon for this political digression1 which ,i am as happy to terminate as yourself4 ,i will only add1 that1 should the period be arrived for the ,spanish empire to undergo the lot of all human things--decline and dissolution1 it has no right to complain1 having had its day2 but1 should that moment be still distant1 let us hope to see that country1 so highly favoured by ,nature1 once more prosperous under the institutions which raised her to the highest level of power and prosperity4 ,meanwhile1 the elements of discord still exist in a simmering state close to the brim of the cauldron1 and a mere spark will suffice at any moment to make them bubble over4 ,the inhabitants of ,madrid are in hourly expectation of this spark2 and not without reason1 if the on-dits which circulate there1 and reach to the neighbouring towns1 are deserving of credit4 ,queen ,christina1 on her road from ,paris to resume virtually1 if not nominally1 the government1 conceived the imprudent idea of taking ,rome in her way4 ,it is said that she confessed to the ,pope1 who1 in the solemn exercise of his authority as representative of the ,deity1 declared to her that ,spain would never regain tranquillity until the possessions of the clergy should be restored to them4 ,whatever else may have passed during the interview is not stated2 but a deep impression was produced on the conscience of the ,queen1 to which is attributed the change in her appearance evident to those who may happen to have seen her a few months since in ,paris4 ,this short space of time has produced on her features the effect of years4 ,she has lost her embonpoint1 and acquired in its place paleness and wrinkles4 ,she is firmly resolved to carry out the views of the ,pope4 ,here1 therefore1 is the difficulty4 ,the leading members of her party are among those who have profited largely by the change of proprietorship which these vast possessions have undergone3 being the framers or abettors of the decree1 they were placed among the nearest for the scramble4 ,in the emptiness of the national treasury1 they consider these acquisitions their sole reward for the trouble of conducting the revolution1 and are prepared to defend them like tigers4 ,when1 therefore1 ,queen ,christina proposed her plan#d to ,narvaez1 she met with a flat refusal4 ,he replied1 that such a decree would deluge the country with blood4 ,the following day he was advised to give in his resignation4 ,this he refused to do1 and another interview took place4 ,the ,queen-mother insisted on his acceptance of the embassy to ,france4 ,he replied1 that he certainly would obey her ,majesty's commands2 but that1 in that case1 she would not be surprised if he published the act of her marriage with ,muos1 which was in his power4#e ,this would compel ,christina to refund all the income she has received as widow of ,ferdinand the ,seventh4 ,the interview ended angrily2 and1 doubtless1 recalled to ,christina's recollection the still higher presumption of the man1 who owed to her the exalted situation from which1 on a former occasion1 he levelled his attack on her authority4 ,i am not answerable for the authenticity of these generally received reports2 but they prove the unsettled state of things1 when the determined disposition of the two opposite parties1 and the nearly equal balance of their force1 are taken into consideration4 ,i was scarcely housed at ,madrid1 having only quitted the hotel the previous day1 when the news reached me of the death of one of the fair and accomplished young ,countesses--the companions of my journey from ,bayonne to ,burgos4 ,you would scarcely believe possible the regret this intelligence occasioned me1--more particularly from the peculiar circumstances of the occurrence4 ,her father had recently arrived from ,france1 and the house was filled for the celebration of her birthday2 but she herself was forbidden to join the dinner-party1 being scarcely recovered from a severe attack of small-pox4 ,the father's weakness could not deny her admission at dessert1 and an ice4 ,the following day she was dead4 ,acquaintances made on the high road advance far more rapidly than those formed in the usual formal intercourse of society4 ,i can account in no other way for the tinge of melancholy thrown over the commencement of my sojourn at ,madrid by this event1--befalling a person whose society ,i had only enjoyed during three days1 and whom ,i scarcely expected to see again4 ,the modern capital of ,spain is an elegant and brilliant city1 and a very agreeable residence2 but for the admirer of the picturesque1 or the tourist in search of historical souvenirs1 it contains few objects of attraction4 ,the picture-gallery is1 however1 a splendid exception2 and1 being the best in the world1 compensates1 as you may easily suppose1 for the deficiency peculiar to ,madrid in monuments of architectural interest4 ,to put an end to the surprise you will experience at the enumeration of such a profusion of chefs d'oeuvre of the great masters as is here found1 it is necessary to lose sight of the present political situation of ,spain1 and to transport ourselves to the age of painting4 ,at that time ,spain was the most powerful1 and especially the most opulent empire in ,europe4 ,almost all ,italy belonged to her2 a large portion actually owning allegiance to her sceptre1 and the remainder being subject to her paramount influence4 ,the familiarity which existed between ,charles the ,fifth and ,titian is well known2 as is likewise the anecdote of the pencil1 picked up and presented by the ,emperor to the artist1 who had dropped it4 ,the same taste for1 and patronage of1 painting1 continued through the successive reigns1 until the period when painting itself died a natural death2 and anecdotes similar to that of ,charles the ,fifth are related of ,philip the ,fourth and ,velasquez4 ,all the works of art thus collected1 and distributed through the different palaces1 have been recently brought together1 and placed in an edifice1 some time since commenced1 and as yet not entirely completed4 ,titian was the most favoured of all the ,italian painters1 not only with respect to his familiar intercourse with the ,emperor1 but also in a professional point of view4 ,the ,museo contains no less than forty of his best productions4 ,nor is it surprising that the taste of the monarch1 being formed by his masterpieces1 should extend its preference to the rest of the ,venetian school in a greater degree than to the remaining ,italian schools4 ,there are1 however1 ten pictures by ,raffaelle1 including the ,spasimo1 considered by many to be his greatest work4 ,a cause similar to that above named enables us to account for the riches assembled in the ,dutch and ,flemish rooms1 among which may be counted more than two hundred pictures of ,teniers alone4 ,i should observe1 that ,i am not answerable for this last calculation2 being indebted for my information to the director1 and distinguished artist1 ,don ,jose ,madrazo4 ,there is no catalogue yet drawn up4 ,rubens has a suite of rooms almost entirely to himself1 besides his just portion of the walls of the gallery4 ,the ,vandykes and ,rembrandts are in great profusion4 ,with regard to the ,spanish schools1 it may be taken for granted that they are as well represented as those of the foreign1 although partially subject1 nations4 ,the works of ,velasquez are the most numerous2 which is accounted for by his situation of painter to the ,court1 under ,philip the ,fourth4 ,there are sixty of his paintings4 ,illustration3 ,,italian ,,gallery ,,at ,,the ,,museo1 ,,madrid4 ,the ,murillos are almost as numerous1 and in his best style3 but ,seville has retained the cream of the genius of her most talented offspring2 and even at ,madrid1 in the collection of the ,academy1 there is a ,murillo--the ,saint ,elizabeth--superior to any of those in the great gallery4 ,it is much to be wished that some artist1 gifted with the pen of a ,joshua ,reynolds1 or even of a ,mengs 7author of a notice on a small portion of these paintings71 could be found1 who would undertake a complete critical review of this superb gallery4 ,all ,i presume to say on the subject is1 were the journey ten times longer and more difficult1 the view of the ,madrid ,museo would not be too dearly purchased4 ,before ,i left ,madrid1 ,i went to the palace1 to see the traces of the conspiracy of the #gth ,october1 remaining on the doors of the ,queen's apartments4 ,you will recollect that the revolt of ,october #ahdb was that in favour of ,christina1 when the three officers1 ,concha1 ,leon1 and ,pezuela1 with a battalion1 attacked the palace in the night1 for the purpose of carrying off the ,queen and her sister4 ,on the failure of the attempt1 owing to its having been prematurely put in execution1 the ,brigadier ,leon was shot1 and the two others escaped4 ,it appears that the execution of this officer1 unlike the greater number of these occurrences1 caused a strong sensation in ,madrid1 owing to the sympathy excited by his popular character1 and the impression that he was the victim of jealousy in the mind of the ,regent4 ,the fine speech1 however1 attributed to him by some of the newspapers1 was not pronounced by him4 ,his words were very few1 and he uttered them in a loud and clear tone1 before giving the word of command to his executioners4 ,this1 and his receiving the fire without turning his back1 were the only incidents worthy of remark4 ,one of the two sentries stationed at the door of the ,queen's anteroom when ,i arrived1 happened to have played a conspicuous part on the eventful night4 ,the ,queen was defended by the guard of hallebardiers1 which always mounts guard in the interior of the palace4 ,this sentinel informed me that he was on guard that night1 on the top step of the staircase1 when ,leon1 followed by a few officers1 was seen to come up4 ,beyond him and his fellow-sentry there were only two more1 who were posted at the door of the ,queen's anteroom1 adjoining her sleeping apartment4 ,this door faces the whole length of the corridor1 with which1 at a distance of about twenty yards1 the top of the staircase communicates4 ,in order to shield himself from the fire of the two sentinels at the ,queen's door1 ,leon grasped my informant by the ribs right and left1 and1 raising him from the ground1 carried him1 like a mummy1 to the corridor2 and there1 turning sharp to the left1 up to the two sentries1 whom he summoned to give him admittance in the name of the absent ,christina4 ,on the soldiers' refusal1 he gave orders to his battalion to advance1 and a pitched battle took place1 which was not ultimately decided until daybreak--seven hours after4 ,the terror of the little princesses1 during this night1 may be imagined4 ,two bullets penetrated into the bed-room2 and the holes made by about twenty more in the doors of some of the state apartments communicating with the corridor1 are still preserved as souvenirs of the event4 ,the palace contains some well-painted ceilings by ,mengs1 and is worthy of its reputation of one of the finest residences in ,europe4 ,the staircase is superb4 ,it was here that ,napoleon1 entering the palace on the occasion of his visit to ,madrid1 to install ,joseph ,buonaparte in his kingdom1 stopped on the first landing2 and1 placing his hand on one of the white marble lions which crouch on the balustrades1 turned to ,joseph1 and exclaimed1 ,mon frre1 vous serez mieux log que moi4 ,there is no road from ,madrid to ,toledo4 ,on the occasions of religious festivities1 which are attended by the court1 the journey is performed by way of ,aranjuez1 from which place a sort of road conducts to the ancient capital of ,spain4 ,there is1 however1 for those who object to add so much to the actual distance1 a track1 known1 in all its sinuosities1 throughout its depths and its shallows1 around its bays1 promontories1 islands1 and peninsulas--to the driver of the diligence1 and to the mounted bearer of the mail2 both of whom travel on the same days of the week1 in order to furnish reciprocal aid1 in case of damage to either4 ,a twenty-four hours' fall of rain renders this track impassable by the usual conveyance2 a very unusual sort of carriage is consequently kept in reserve for these occasions1 and1 as the period of my journey happened to coincide with an uncommonly aqueous disposition of the ,castilian skies1 ,i was fortunately enabled to witness the less every day1 and more eventful transit1 to which this arrangement gave rise4 ,accordingly at four o'clock on an ,april morning--an hour later than is the custom on the road from ,france to ,madrid--,i ascended the steps of a carriage1 selected for its lightness1 which to those who know anything of ,continental coach-building1 conveys a sufficient idea of its probable solidity4 ,there was not yet sufficient daylight to take a view of this fabric2 but ,i saw1 by the aid of a lantern1 my luggage lifted into a sort of loose net1 composed of straw-ropes1 and suspended between the hind wheels in precisely such juxtaposition1 as to make the portmanteaus1 bags1 c4 bear the same topographic relation to the vehicle1 as the truffles do to a turkey1 or the stuffing to a duck4 ,there was much grumbling about the quantity of my luggage1 and some hints thrown out1 relative to the additional perils1 suspended over our heads1 or rather1 under our seats1 in consequence of the coincidence of the unusual weight1 with the bad state of the road1 as they termed it1 and the acknowledged caducity of the carriage4 ,i really was1 in fact1 the only one to blame2 for ,i could not discover1 besides my things1 more than two small valises belonging to all the other six passengers together4 ,at length we set off1 and at a distance of four miles from ,madrid1 as day began to break1 we broke down4 ,the break-down was neither violent nor dangerous1 and was occasioned by the crash of a hind wheel1 while our pace did not exceed a walk3 but it was productive of some amusement1 owing to the position1 near the corner of the vehicle which took the greatest fancy to terra firma1 of a not over heroic limb of the ,castilian law1 who had endeavoured to be facetious ever since our departure1 and whose countenance now exhibited the most grotesque symptoms of real terror4 ,never1 ,i am convinced1 will those moments be forgotten by that individual1 whose vivacity deserted him for the remainder of the journey2 and whose attitude and expression1 as his extended arms failed to recover his centre of gravity exchanged for the supine1 folded-up posture1 unavoidable by the occupant at the lowest corner of a broken-down vehicle1--while his thoughts wandered to his absent offspring1 whose fond smiles awaited him in ,toledo1 but to whom perhaps he was not allowed to bid an eternal adieu--will live likewise in the memory of his fellow-travellers4 ,this dnouement of the adventures of the first carriage rendered a long halt necessary2 during which1 the postilion returned to ,madrid on a mule1 and brought us out a second4 ,this proceeding occupied four hours1 during which some entered a neighbouring venta1 others remained on the road1 seated on heaps of stones1 and all breakfasted on what provisions they had brought with them1 or could procure at the said venta4 ,the sight of the vehicle that now approached1 would have been cheaply bought at the price of twenty up-sets4 ,don ,quixote would have charged it1 had such an apparition suddenly presented itself to his view4 ,it was called a phaeton1 but bore no sort of resemblance to the open carriage known in ,england by that name4 ,its form was remarkable by its length being out of all proportion to its width1--so much so as to require three widely-separated windows on each side4 ,these were irregularly placed1 instead of being alike on the two sides1 for the door appeared to have been forgotten until after the completion of the fabric1 and to have taken subsequently the place of a window2 which window--pursuant to a praiseworthy sense of justice--was provided for at the expense of a portion of deal board1 and some uniformity4 ,the machine possessed1 nevertheless1 allowing for its rather exaggerated length1 somewhat of the form of an ancient landau2 but the roof describing a semicircle1 gave it the appearance of having been placed upside down by mistake1 in lowering it on to the wheels4 ,then1 with regard to these wheels1 they certainly had nothing very extraordinary about their appearance1 when motionless2 but1 on being subjected to a forward or backward impulse1 they assumed1 respectively1 and independently of each other1 such a zigzag movement1 as would belong to a rotatory1 locomotive pendulum1 should the progress of mechanics ever attain to so complicated a discovery4 ,indeed1 the machine1 in general1 appeared desirous of avoiding the monotony attendant on a straight-forward movement2 the body of the monster1 from the groans1 sighs1 screams1 and other various sounds which accompanied its heaving1 pitching1 and rolling exertions1 appearing to belong to some unwieldy and agonised mammoth and to move by its own laborious efforts1 instead of being indebted for its progress to the half-dozen quadrupeds hooked to its front projections4 ,the track along which this interesting production of mechanical art now conveyed us1 bore much resemblance to a river1 in the accidents of its course4 ,thus we were reminded at frequent intervals1 by the suddenly increased speed of our progress1 that we were descending a rapid3 at other times the motion was so vertical1 as to announce the passage down a cataract4 ,these incidents were not objectionable to me1 as they interrupted the monotony of the walking pace1 to which we were condemned2 although one or two passengers of rather burly proportions1 seemed not much to enjoy their repetition4 ,however this might be1 assuredly we were none of us sorry to find ourselves at eight o'clock that evening safely housed at ,toledo4 ,,letter ,,viii4 ,,picturesque ,,position ,,of ,,toledo4 ,,florinda4 ,toledo4 ,every traveller--,i don't mean every one who habitually assists in wearing out roads1 whether of stone or iron--nor who travels for business1 nor who seeks to escape from himself--meaning from ennui1 7a vain attempt1 by the way1 if ,horace is to be depended on2 since1 even should he travel on horseback1 the most exhilarating sort of locomotion1 ennui will contrive to mount and ride pillion7--but every one who deserves the name of traveller1 who travels for travelling sake1 for the pleasure of travelling1 knows the intensity of the feeling which impels his right hand1 as he proceeds to open the window-shutter of his bed-room1 on the morning subsequent to his nocturnal arrival in a new town4 ,the windows of the ,posada del ,miradero at ,toledo are so placed as by no means to diminish the interest of this operation4 ,the shutter being opened1 ,i found myself looking from a perpendicular elevation of several hundred feet1 on one of the prettiest views you can imagine4 ,the town was at my back1 and the road by which we had arrived1 was cut in the side of the precipice beneath me4 ,in following that direction1 the first object at all prominent was the gate leading to ,madrid--a cluster of half ,arab embattled towers and walls1 standing somewhat to the left at the bottom of the descent4 ,these gave issue to the track mentioned in my journey1 and which could now be traced straight in front1 to a considerable distance4 ,the ground rises slightly beyond the gates of the town1 and preserves a moderate elevation all across the view1 retreating right and left1 so as to offer the convex side of the arc of an immense circle4 ,this formation gives to the view a valley1 extending on either side1 shut in on the left by mountains at a distance of four miles2 while to the east it extends as far as the eye can reach1--some mountains1 scarcely perceptible1 crossing it at the horizon4 ,the ,tagus advances down the eastern valley from ,aranjuez2 which chteau is in view at the distance of twenty-eight miles1 and approaching with innumerable zigzags to the foot of the town1 suddenly forms a curve1 and1 dashing into the rocks1 passes round the back of the city1 issues again into the western valley1 and1 after another sharp turn to the left1 resumes the same direction as before4 ,all this tract of country owes to the waters of the ,tagus a richness of vegetation1 and a bright freshness nowhere surpassed4 ,so much for the distant view4 ,to judge of the nearer appearance of the town1 ,i crossed the bridge of ,alcantara1 placed at the entrance of the eastern valley1 and leading to ,aranjuez4 ,the situation may be described in a few words4 ,toledo stands on an eminence nearly circular in its general form4 ,it is a mass of jagged rock1 almost perpendicular on all its sides4 ,the river flows rather more than half round it1 descending from the east1 and passing round its southern side4 ,the left or south bank is of the same precipitous formation2 but1 instead of presenting that peculiarity during only a short distance1 it continues so both above and below the town2 while on the opposite side the only high ground is the solitary mass of rock selected1 whether with a view to defence or to inconvenience1 for the position of this ancient city4 ,the ,tagus is crossed by two bridges1 one at each extremity of the semi-circle described by it round the half of the town4 ,these bridges are both highly picturesque1 from their form no less than their situation4 ,they are raised upon arches of a height so disproportionate to their width1 as to appear like aqueducts2 and are provided at each extremity with towers1 all1 with one exception1 ,moorish in their style4 ,the lower bridge 7lower by position1 for it is the higher of the two in actual elevation7 bears the name of ,san ,martin1 and is traversed by the road to ,estremadura2 the other leads to ,aranjuez1 and is the puente de ,alcantara4 ,we are now standing on this last1 having passed under the ,arab archway of its tower4 ,its width is just sufficient for the passage of two vehicles abreast1 and it is covered with flag-paving4 ,the river flows sixty feet below4 ,at the back of the tower which faces you1 at the opposite end of the bridge1 rises a rock1 almost isolated from the rest of the cliff1 and on its top the half-ruined towers and walls of a ,moorish castle4 ,on the left hand extends the valley1 through which the river approaches in a broad mass4 ,the road to ,aranjuez follows the same direction1 after having first disappeared round the base of the rock just mentioned1 and is bordered with rose-trees1 and occasional groups of limes1 which separate it from the portions set apart for pedestrians4 ,on the right hand the river 7still looking from the bridge7 is suddenly pressed in between precipices1 becomes narrow1 and at the distance of a few hundred yards1 forms a noisy cascade4 ,illustration3 ,,view ,,of ,,toledo ,still looking in that direction1 the left bank--a rocky precipice1 as ,i mentioned before--curves round and soon hurries it out of sight4 ,the lower part of the opposite or town bank is ornamented1 close to the cascade1 with a picturesque ruin1 on which you look down from your position4 ,this consists of three stories of arches1 standing partly in the water4 ,above and behind them rise a few larger buildings1 almost perpendicularly over each other1 and the summit is crowned with the colossal quadrangular mass of the ,alcazar4 ,the ruinous arches just mentioned1 are the remains of a building erected by a speculator1 who had conceived a plan for raising water to the ,alcazar by means of wheels1 furnished with jars1 according to the custom of this part of ,spain4 ,the arrangement is simple2 the jars1 being attached round a perpendicular wheel1 successively fill with water1 as each arrives at the bottom1 and empty themselves1 on reaching the summit1 into any receptacle placed so as to receive their contents4 ,the speculator1 having to operate on a colossal scale1 intended probably to super-pose wheel over wheel1 and to establish reservoirs at different elevations1 as it would scarcely be possible to work a wheel of such dimensions as to carry jars to the height required 7more than three hundred feet71 even though furnished with ropes1 which are made to turn round the wheel and descend below it4 ,crossing the bridge1 the road quits the river1 or rather is left for a certain space by it1 until it meets it at the distance of a mile4 ,this road is a favourite promenade of the inhabitants1 and deservedly so4 ,on each side1 for the distance of a mile1 it is bordered by hedges of magnificent rose-trees4 ,these hedges are double on both sides1 enclosing walks for the promenaders on foot4 ,behind those on the outside1 the colours are varied by the pale green of the olive-tree2 and over them occasional clusters of lime-trees1 mingled with the acacia and laburnum1 furnish shade1 in case of an excess of sunshine4 ,this promenade1 flanked on one side by the hills1 and on the other1 by the highly cultivated plain1 in parts of which the ,tagus is seen occasionally to peep through its wooded banks1 is most delicious during the rose season4 ,i should especially recommend the visitor of ,toledo to repair to it during the first hour after sunrise1 when thronged with birds1 which are here almost tame1 and fill the air with their music2 and also in the evening1 when frequented by the mantilla-hooded fair of the city4 ,there is1 however1 notwithstanding the beauty and gay appearance of this profusion of roses1 a singular effect produced by their situation4 ,usually seen surrounded by other flowers or by well-kept grass or earth1 they do not look quite themselves on the side on which they rest their bushy foundations on a dusty road1 covered with deep ruts4 ,the fish out of water forms a hackneyed1 not to say a dried up1 comparison2 but we can compare the rather pallid and unnatural appearance of these plants to that of a bevy of ladies1 who1 tired of the monotony of a ball-room in ,grosvenor ,place1 should resolve1 precisely at the crisis when candle-light is more than ever required for their rather suffering complexions1 to compel their partners to lead them1 at sunrise1 a galopade down ,tattersall's yard4 ,the roses1 thus misplaced1 are nevertheless roses1 and cease not to be fair1 in spite of their unusual entourage1 and to contribute to the beauty and novelty of this picturesque promenade4 ,amongst the variety of harmless weaknesses by which human imagination1 and consequently human locomotion are influenced1 ,i look upon one of the most irresistible 7if such an epithet be applicable to a weakness7 to be that fractional component part of the cravings of antiquarianism1 which urges some persons in the search after1 and rewards their labours on the discovery of1 the locality supposed to be the birthscene of some great historical event1 however insignificant in other respects1 or even however loathsome its actual state may be to the outward senses4 ,thus1 when1 in ,normandy1 the worthy and probably waggish majordomo of the crumbling old castle of ,falaise1 directs your attention to the window from which ,duke ,robert caught the first glance of the ankle of ,william the ,conqueror's mother1--as she pursued her professional labours1 and polluted with her soapsuds the silver brook a quarter of a mile below him1--and suddenly yielded his soul to its irresistible beauty3 notwithstanding the impossibility of the thing1 many1 and ,i confess myself one1 are too delighted with the window1 and the rivulet1 and the majordomo1 and the--,god knows what6--perhaps with the very impossibility--to allow themselves a moment's sceptical or sarcastic feeling on the subject4 ,i should mention that my visit to ,falaise happening to take place shortly after the passage of the ,king of the ,french on a tour through his western provinces1 the aforesaid cicerone pointed out a highly suspicious-looking inscription1 being the initials of the monarch1 carefully engraved in the stone2 which he informed me had been cut by ,louis ,philippe1 on the occasion of his visit at midnight to the room of ,duke ,robert2 but of which ,i took the liberty of suspecting himself of being the sculptor1 during some idle moment1--fond as he probably was of contemplating the innocently expressive countenances of his satisfied visitors4 ,actuated by the feeling ,i have attempted to describe1 one of my first inquiries at ,toledo related to the well-known story of ,florinda and her bath1 so fatal to the ,gothic sway in ,spain4 ,i was immediately directed to the spot1 on which is seen a square tower1 pierced by arched openings through its two opposite sides1 and on a third side by a similar but smaller aperture4 ,the four walls alone remain1 and the whole is uncovered4 ,this symmetrical-looking edifice1 well built and composed of large stones1 measures about sixteen feet square1 and from forty to fifty in elevation1 and stands on the edge of the river1 on the town side1 about a hundred yards below the western bridge--that called after ,saint ,martin--at the precise point at which the river quits the town1 and its north bank ceases to be precipitous4 ,the extreme point of the termination of the high ground is immediately over the building1 and is covered with the ruins of ,king ,roderick's palace1 the outer walls of which descend to the water1 and are terminated by a small roundtower within a few yards of the quadrangular edifice4 ,the edifice is called the ,bao de la ,cava1 meaning ,florinda's bath1 although the native popular tradition1 losing sight of the events of the history1 has metamorphosed the heroine of the spot into a ,moorish princess4 ,in fact1 the rocky precipice terminates at this spot1--the last piece of rock forming part of the foundation of the square tower1 immediately beyond which is a gently descending sand-bank most convenient and tempting to bathers4 ,this circumstance1 added to the situation of ,roderick's residence1 immediately above the scene1 was delightfully corroborative of the tradition2 and proved sufficiently1 had all investigation ceased there1 the identity of the spot with the scene of the anecdote4 ,owing to an excess of curiosity a new discovery threw a doubt over the whole affair4 ,illustration3 ,,florinda',s ,,bath4 ,a bridge is too public a thoroughfare to allow of bathing to be practised in its immediate neighbourhood3 and1 in fact1 the erection of the neighbouring one of ,st4 ,martin is of much later date than the events of the history in question4 ,fatal curiosity1 however1 led me to the back of the building1--the very bath of ,florinda1--where it was impossible not to discover1 even to conviction1 that it1 the square tower itself1 had formerly been the entrance of a bridge4 ,this is proved by the ruins of two piers1 which appear above the water1--one near to the shore on which ,i was standing1 the other near to the opposite bank1 and both forming a line with the square tower on looking through its two opposite arches4 ,the tower possesses other peculiarities which1 compared with those belonging to the bridges actually in existence1 fully confirm the supposition4 ,now1 although the tradition has christened the spot ,bao de la ,cava1 which expression is translated bath of the prostitute1 it is certain that ,florinda was the daughter of ,count ,julian1 governor of the ,spanish possessions in ,africa1 and a personage of sufficient rank and influence to obtain a hearing at the court of the ,arab ,caliph1 or at all events of his viceroy in ,africa1 and to conceive the idea of calling a foreign army to execute his private vengeance4 ,it is therefore extremely improbable that the daughter of such a person should have been seen to measure and compare the proportions of her legs with those of her companions in the immediate vicinity of a bridge1 necessarily the most frequented of thoroughfares4 ,i confess ,i left the spot filled with disappointment4 ,in vain ,i reflected that after all the fact is fact--that the sensual ,roderick may certainly have spied from behind a window-lattice the frolics of some ladies at their bath2 and that1 wherever his espionage took place1 he may for that purpose have intentionally procured himself a place of concealment1 and have formed the resolution of possessing one of them4 ,in fact1 it was a matter of indifference to me whether the circumstance had occurred or not1 provided ,i should ascertain its whereabouts1 supposing it real1 instead of merely discovering the spot on which it did not take place4 ,having thus convicted the generally received tradition of deceit1--at least1 in one of its parts1--it became an object to discover some other version of the story1 which might tally in a more satisfactory manner with present existing proofs4 ,the ,arab historians deny the invasion to have been brought about by any such occurrence2 but ,mariana1 copied by more recent writers1 has either discovered or compiled a very plausible story1 clear in its details1 only erroneous in respect of the heroine's name1 which he makes out to be ,cava4 ,from this version the bath is entirely excluded4 ,according to the custom in ,gothic ,spain1 the sons of the nobles received their education in the royal palace1 and on attaining the age of manhood1 they formed an escort round the sovereign on all expeditions1 whether to the field or the chase4 ,their daughters were likewise entrusted to the care of royalty1 and attended the person of the ,queen1 after having completed their education and instruction in the accomplishments suited to their sex1 under her superintendence4 ,when these noble damsels could number sufficient summers1 their hands were bestowed according to the royal selection4 ,among the attendants of ,queen ,egilona1 was a daughter of ,count ,julian1 possessed of extreme beauty4 ,florinda1 while playing with her companions in a garden1 situated on the banks of the ,tagus1 and overlooked by a tower1 which contained a portion of ,don ,rodrigo's apartments1 exposed to view1 more than accorded either with etiquette or with her intention1 the symmetry of her form4 ,king ,rodrigo1 who1 favoured by the concealment of a window-blind1 had been watching the whole scene1 became suddenly enamoured of her1 and resolved to obtain a return of his passion2 but1 after finding every effort useless1 and his object unattainable1 he at length employed violence4 ,every circumstance of this story is corroborated1 as far as is possible in the present time1 by the position of the localities1 the known customs of the period1 and the character of ,king ,roderick4 ,but the historian ,mariana1 to show the minuteness and triumph of research1 on which he has founded his relation1 quotes the young lady's own version of the affair2 in fact1 no less interesting a document than her letter to her father1 then in ,africa1 disclosing the insult offered to the family4 ,the following is the translation of this portentous dispatch4 ,a billet-doux pregnant with greater events never issued from the boudoir of beauty and innocence4 ,would to ,heaven1 my lord and father6--,would to ,heaven the earth had closed over me1 before it fell to my lot to write these lines1 and with such grievous news to cause you sadness and perpetual regret6 ,how many are the tears that flow while ,i am writing1 these blots and erasures are witnesses4 ,and yet if ,i do not immediately1 ,i shall cause a suspicion that not only the body has been polluted1 but the soul likewise blotted and stained with perpetual infamy4 ,would ,i could foresee a term to our misery6--,who but yourself shall find a remedy for our misfortunes8 ,shall we delay1 until time brings to light that which is now a secret1 and the affront we have received entail on us a shame more intolerable than death itself8 ,i blush to write that which ,i am bound to divulge4 ,o wretched and miserable fate6 ,in a word1 your daughter--your blood1 that of the kingly line of the ,goths1 has suffered from ,king ,rodrigo1--to whose care1 alas6 she was entrusted like the sheep to the wolf1--a most wicked and cruel affront4 ,it is for you1 if you are worthy the name of a man1 to cause the sweet draught of our ruin to become a deadly poison to his life2 nor to leave unpunished the mockery and insult he has cast on our line and on our house4 ,don ,julian1 who1 as some say1 was of royal descent1 and a relative1 not far removed1 of ,roderick--was possessed of qualities no less marked by daring than artifice4 ,his plans well digested1 he committed his government in ,africa to the charge of a deputy1 and repaired to the court at ,toledo4 ,there he made it his business to advance in credit and favour until the moment should arrive for action4 ,his first step was1 by means of false alarms of attacks meditated on the northern frontier1 to get rid of the principal part of the disposable forces in that direction4 ,meanwhile he caused a letter from his ,countess1 who remained in ,africa1 to be forwarded to the ,king1 in which1 on the plea of serious illness1 she urgently entreats the royal permission for the departure of ,florinda to ,ceuta4 ,it is related that the profligate ,rodrigo consented to the journey with so much the better grace1 that possession had divested the attractions of his victim of all further hold of his passions1 already under the dominion of new allurements4 ,there is a gate at ,malaga1 giving issue towards the sea-shore1 which bears to this day the name of ,gate of the ,cava3 through it she is said to have passed on embarking for ,africa4 ,with regard to the name la ,cava given to the gate and to the bath1 ,i am disposed to prefer the popular notion to the assertion of ,mariana1 that it was her name4 ,it is a natural supposition that the anecdote of the affair of ,toledo1 spread among the ,arabs1 who1 for centuries after this period1 were the depositaries of the annals and traditions of the ,peninsula1--should have become tinted with a colour derived from their customs and ideas4 ,now it would be difficult to persuade an ,arab that the circumstances of the story in question could befall a virtuous female1 surrounded with the thousand precautions peculiar to an oriental court4 ,if we add to this the contemptuous tone assumed by them towards those of the hostile creed--a tone that must have suited in an especial degree with their way of thinking on the subject of female deportment among the ,christians1 which they look upon as totally devoid of delicacy and reserve--the epithet applied to ,florinda is easily accounted for4 ,but to return to the story4 ,it only now remained for ,don ,julian to determine the ,caliph's viceroy in ,africa in favour of the invasion4 ,repairing to his court1 he obtained an audience1 in which he painted to the ,prince1 in such eloquent terms1 the natural and artificial wealth of the ,spanish peninsula1 the facility of the enterprise1 owing to the absence of the principal part of the disposable hostile force1 and the unpopularity of ,king ,rodrigo1 that an expedition was immediately ordered2 which1 although at first prudently limited to a small troop under ,tharig1 led to the conquest1 in a few campaigns1 of the whole ,peninsula4 ,mingled with the ruins of ,roderick's palace are seen at present those of the monastery of ,saint ,augustin1 subsequently erected on the same site3 but on the side facing the river1 the ancient wall and turrets1 almost confounded with the rock1 on which they were built1 have outlived the more recent erections1 or perhaps have not been interfered with by them4 ,immediately beyond the portion of these walls1 beneath which is seen the ,bao de la ,cava1 they turn1 together with the brink of the precipice1 abruptly to the north1 forming a right angle with the river bank3 this part faces the western vega or valley1 and looks down on the site of the ancient palace gardens1 which occupied the first low ground4 ,they extended as far as the chapel of ,santa ,leocadia4 ,the ground is now traversed by the road to the celebrated sword-blade manufactory1 situated on the bank of the river1 half a mile lower down4 ,with the exception of the inmates of that establishment1 the only human beings who frequent the spot are the votaries on their way to the shrine of ,santa ,leocadia1 and the convicts of a neighbouring ,presidio in search of water from the river4 ,,letter ,,ix4 ,,cathedral ,,of ,,toledo4 ,toledo4 ,every successive ra of civilization1 with the concomitant religion on which it has been founded1 and from which it has taken its peculiar mould1 has1 after maintaining its ground with more or less lustre1 and throughout a greater or smaller duration1 arrived at its inevitable period of decline and overthrow4 ,in ceasing1 however1 to live1 and to fill society far and wide with its enlightening influence1--in exchanging its erect attitude for the prostrate one consequent on its fall1--seldom has a creed1 which has long held possession of the most enlightened intellects of our race for the time being1 undergone an entire extinction1 so as to disappear altogether from the face of the earth1 and leave no trace of its existence4 ,the influence of the soil1 formation1 and climate of the region1 in the bosom of which such civilization has had its birth1 on the dispositions and faculties of the race which has become its depositary1 has always set its peculiar mark on its monuments1 whether civil1 military1 or religious1 but especially the last2 which monuments1 surviving the reign of the power to which they owe their existence1 prolong and sanctify its memory1 while they stand1 erect and silent1 over its grave2 and furnish valuable information and benefit to those future generations sufficiently enlightened to consult them4 ,if this theory of successions and vicissitudes be consonant 7which probably no one will deny7 with the march of events on the surface of this our planet1 then do the circumstances of the present situation invest1 as far as regards ,spain1 those relics of human genius and human enthusiasm1 the venerable temples of her declining faith1 with an interest beyond that which they have possessed at any period since their foundation4 ,it is impossible to have paid any attention to the events of the last few years1 without having received the conviction that the reign of ,christianity is here fast approaching1--not the commencement1 but the termination of its decline4 ,spaniards will never do things by halves2 and will probably prefer the entire overthrow of ancient customs to the system pursued in ,france1 of propping up1 by government enactments and salaries1 a tottering edifice of external forms1 long since divested of its foundation of public belief4 ,to speak correctly1 the decline of religious supremacy in ,spain is by no means recent4 ,it was coeval with that of the arts1 and of the political grandeur of the country4 ,the gradual cessation of the vast gifts and endowments for the erection of the religious establishments was a symptom of devotional enthusiasm having passed its zenith4 ,had not this occurred nearly three centuries back1 ,madrid would not have wanted a ,cathedral4 ,nothing could ever have tended more directly to compromise the durability of ,christianity in ,spain1 than the final expulsion or extermination of the ,moors and ,jews4 ,had ,torquemada and a few others possessed heads as clear and calculating as their hearts were resolute and inexorable--a knowledge of human nature as profound as their ambition of divine honours was exalted1 they would have taken care not entirely to deprive the ,church of food for its passions and energies4 ,they would not have devoured all their heretics at a single meal1 but would have exercised more mnagement and less voracity4 ,they would have foreseen that by burning a few hundred ,jews and ,arabs less each year1 nourishment would remain to animate the declamations of preachers1 and the energies of the faithful2 without which the fatal effects of sloth and indifference must inevitably take root in the imaginations1 and eventually undermine their lofty fabric4 ,the decline was1 however1 so gradual as to exercise no perceptible influence on the general conduct of the population1 by whom forms were still observed1 churches filled1 and acts of devotion unceasingly accomplished4 ,a variety of causes 7into a description of which it is not my object1 nor would it be your wish1 that ,i should enter1 but of which one of the most influential has been the importation of foreign ideas--as well through natural channels1 as by special and interested exertions7 has precipitated the dnouement of this long-commenced revolution2 and that with so headlong a rapidity1 that1 in that ,spain which surpassed all other nations in bigoted attachment to religious rites1 the confiscation of all the possessions of the ,church1 under a promise 7not to be performed7 of salaries for a certain number of ecclesiastics1 insufficient for the continuation of the ancient ceremonies1 is received by the population with indifference6 ,the ,cathedral of ,toledo1 deprived of the greater number of its functionaries1--including its archbishop and fifty-six of its sixty canons1 and no longer possessing1 out of an income of hundreds of thousands sterling1 a treasure sufficient for providing brooms and sweepers for its pavement1--will1 in perhaps not much more than another year1 if the predictions of the inhabitants be verified1 be finally closed to public worship4 ,the same interest1 therefore1 which surrounded the ,arab monuments three centuries since1 and the ,roman edifices of ,spain in the fifth century1 attaches itself now to the ,christian temples2 which1 at this crisis1 offer themselves to the tourist in the sad but attractive gloom of approaching death2 since depriving them of the pomp and observances which filled their tall arcades with animation1 is equivalent to separating a soul from a body4 ,he will explore them and examine their ceremonies with all the eagerness and perseverance of a last opportunity1--he will wander untired through the mysterious twilight of their arched recesses1 and muse on the riches lavished around him to so little purpose1 and on the hopes of those who entrusted their memories to the guardianship of so frail and transient a depositary4 ,the tones of their giant though melodious voices1 as1 sent from a thousand brazen throats1 they roll through the vaulted space the dirge of their approaching fate1 will fill him with sadness2 and the ray that streams upon him from each crimson and blue rosace will fix itself on his memory1 kindling around it an inextinguishable warmth1 as though he had witnessed the smile of a departing saint4 ,i had read of ,toledo being in possession of the finest church in ,spain1--and that in the book of a tourist1 whose visit to this town follows immediately that to ,seville4 ,begging pardon of the clever and entertaining writer to whom ,i allude1 the ,cathedral of ,toledo strikes me as far from being the finest in ,spain2 nor would it be the finest in ,france1 nor in ,england1 nor in other countries that might be enumerated1 could it be transported to either4 ,it is large2 but in this respect it yields to that of ,seville4 ,what its other claims to pre-eminence may be1 it is difficult to discover4 ,it is true that its interior presents a specimen of the simple and grand pointed style of its period4 ,this being put in execution on a large scale1 would render it an imposing and a beautiful edifice1 but for a subsequent addition1 which1 to render justice to the architect1 he certainly never could have contemplated4 ,the noble pillars1 towering to a height of sixty feet1 have been clothed1 together with their capitals1 in a magnificent coat of whitewash6 ,without having witnessed such a desecration in this or some similar edifice1 it is impossible to conceive the deadening effect it produces on the feeling of admiration such a building ought to excite4 ,an inscription in distinct and large characters1 over the southernmost of the three western doors1 after recording the conquest of ,granada by the ,catholic ,kings1 as ,ferdinand and ,isabella are here termed1 the expulsion of the ,jews1 and the completion of the ,cathedral1 brands with this act of barbarism one ,don ,francisco ,fernandez de ,cuena1 obrero mayor 7almost a ,dean7 of the ,cathedral in the year #adic4 ,there is1 however1 a moment of each day when the tall arcades vindicate their outraged majesty4 ,la nuit tous les chats sont gris1 says the proverb4 ,i therefore proceeded at the approach of twilight 7all access at a later hour being prohibited7 to see whether its application would extend to this church4 ,this is1 in fact1 the hour1 just before the closing of the doors1 at which it should be visited4 ,darkness has assumed his empire within these walls long before the stirring labyrinth without has had warning of his approach4 ,no colours nor gildings 7the latter being rather injudiciously distributed7 are visible--nothing but a superb range of beautifully painted windows2 and the columns only trace their dim outline a little less black against the deep gloom of the rest of the building4 ,at this hour1 could it last1 it would be impossible to tire of wandering through this forest of magnificent stems1 of which the branches are only seen to spring1 and immediately lose themselves beneath the glories of the coloured transparencies rendered doubly brilliant by their contrast with the gloom of all below them4 ,the principal merit1 in fact1 of this edifice1 consists in its windows4 ,that of the purity of its general style deserves also to be allowed2 but with some reserve in the appreciation of the accessory points of the design4 ,it depended1 for instance1 on the judgment of the architect1 to diminish or to increase the number of columns which separate the different naves1 and by their unnecessary abundance he has impaired the grandeur of the general effect4 ,the interior dimensions are as follows3--,length1 including a moderately sized chapel at the eastern extremity1 three hundred and fifty ,english feet2 width1 throughout1 one hundred and seventy-four feet2 height of the principal nave and transept1 about one hundred and twenty feet4 ,the width is divided into five naves2 those at the outside rising to about two-thirds of the height of the two next adjoining2 and these to about half that of the centre nave4 ,an entire side of a chapel opening out of the southernmost nave1 is ornamented in the ,arab style--having been executed by a ,moorish artist at the same period as the rest2 and not 7as might be conjectured7 having belonged to the mosque1 which occupied the same site previously to the erection of the present cathedral4 ,this small chapel would be a beautiful specimen of the ,arab ornament in stucco1 but for several coats of whitewash it has received4 ,an arched recess occupies the centre1 and is called the ,tomb of the ,alguazil4 ,a handsome doorway in the same style is seen in the anteroom of the ,chapter-saloon4 ,illustration3 ,,apse ,,of ,,the ,,cathedral1 ,,toledo4 ,facing the entrance to the centre or extreme eastern chapel1 that of ,san ,ildefonzo1 the back of the high altar1 or1 as it is vulgarly called1 the ,trascoro1 is--not adorned1 would it were possible not to say disfigured1 by an immense mass of sculpture called the ,transparente4 ,it is not easy to imagine the reason of this altar-piece having received its name1 for it is not more transparent than any other mountain--never was witnessed so lamentable a mis-application of riches and labour6 ,some of the marble was brought from ,carrara2 the rest is not of a very good white1 and being thus exposed to an unfavourable contrast1 adds to the displeasing effect of the unwieldy forms which enter into the composition of this huge blunder of art--this pile of masses on masses of ugliness4 ,at the sight of a large spherical form rising abruptly from the surface of some shaft of a pillar1 you step back1 and discover that it forms part of the posteriors of a corpulent cherub1 as large as the column itself1 which he has thus unmercifully annihilated1 in order to save himself the trouble of passing a few inches to the left or right4 ,but it is needless to notice the details of this piece of sculpture1 which being the largest1 and occupying the most conspicuous position in the whole church1 forcibly attracts the attention which1 but for that circumstance1 one would rather bestow in another direction4 ,it is a relief to take one's station on the shining mahogany benches adjoining the wall of the opposite chapel of ,san ,ildefonzo2 and to contemplate its chaste style and graceful proportions1 and the handsome tombs which occupy its octagonally divided walls4 ,the piece of sculpture in marble1 placed over the principal altar1 is undeserving of its conspicuous situation4 ,it represents the ,vision of ,san ,ildefonzo1 to which we shall shortly have occasion to direct our attention4 ,the adjoining chapel1 as we proceed towards the northernmost nave1 that of ,santiago1 or more generally called after its founder1 ,don ,alvaro de ,luna1 is still finer4 ,it is larger and loftier1 and of a more ornamental design4 ,it presents five sides of an octagon3 the three remaining sides turning inwards to suit the form of the apse4 ,this ,alvaro de ,luna1 the ,lord ,essex of ,juan the ,second1 having by the high favour he enjoyed in the intimacy of the monarch1 given umbrage to the courtiers1 was put to death by the ,king1 who gave credit to the charges falsely brought against him4 ,don ,juan1 however1 who did not long survive his friend1 had justice done to his remains4 ,being found innocent by a posthumous trial at ,valladolid1 his body was conveyed with great pomp to ,toledo1 and placed in the centre of his chapel4 ,the tomb of his ,countess stands close to his own2 and in the niches of the surrounding walls1 those of his most distinguished relatives1 one of whom1 on the right of the altar1 is represented in complete armour1 with a turban on his head4 ,the treasures bestowed on this favourite1 flowed plentifully into the ,cathedral of ,toledo4 ,besides his chapel1 the finest of all--the elaborately executed enclosure of the sanctuary1 is one of his gifts3 his arms are there recognised1 frequently recurring among the various designs of the external tracery4 ,a narrow passage1 leading from the apse between the chapel of ,don ,alvaro1 and the entrance to the sacristy1 communicates with the chapel of the kings4 ,after passing through a simply designed anteroom of more recent date1 the eye reposes with pleasure on a small interior in the pointed style of the latest period--of proportions1 perhaps1 not the less graceful from their being rather narrow for the length4 ,two richly ornamented arches1 stretching across the interior1 divide it into three parts1 in the first of which is seen a gallery containing an elaborately wrought gilded confessional4 ,the walls of the two other divisions are divided into six parts2 the chapel having been constructed and endowed by ,juan the ,first1 for the reception of six monuments3 those of himself and his ,queen ,isabella2 those of his father ,henry the ,second1 7natural son of ,alonzo the ,eleventh1 and who dethroned and killed with his own hand his half-brother1 ,pedro the cruel17 and ,doa ,juana his wife2 and those of ,henry the ,third1 and ,doa ,catalina his wife4 ,returning to the interior of the apse1 and continuing in the direction of the north side1 another small passage and anteroom lead to the principal sacristy1 which communicates with the next chapel1 called the ,sagrario1 and composed of three apartments4 ,the great sacristy contains some good paintings1 particularly the ceiling by ,giordano--a modern tomb of the late archbishop1 ,cardinal de ,bourbon1 and a series of narrow doors1 within which are recesses4 ,the first of these contains the crown and bracelets of the ,virgin of the ,sagrario3 in four others are preserved magnificent ornaments of silver1 representing emblematically the four quarters of the globe4 ,each quarter is personified by a figure invested with the attributes which characterize the region she represents1 seated on a large silver globe1 on the front of which is traced the quarter represented4 ,the globe is supported by figures of animals4 ,in the last of these recesses is seen the sword of ,alonzo the ,sixth1 who won ,toledo from the ,moors4 ,it is small1 and unornamented1 except by a hilt of embossed silver1 on which the arms are repeated four times4 ,in the smaller sacristy within are several good pictures1 but not so remarkable as to prevent their being eclipsed by the splendid robe of the ,virgin of the neighbouring ,sagrario1 here exhibited1 extended flat on a semicircular board1 such being the form of the garment4 ,no one knows the value of this treasure4 ,during the ,peninsular ,war1 the archbishop1 in order to spare the ,french ,generals too great a temptation1 conveyed it1 together with whatever else deserved the precaution1 to ,cadiz4 ,it is embroidered almost entirely with pearls on a tissue of silver2 but none of the silver is visible without separating the pearls1 diamonds1 c41 with the fingers4 ,most of the larger pearls possess the irregular sort of beaten shape often observed in the best specimens4 ,some are enormous4 ,numbers of diamonds1 rubies1 and other stones are admitted in the upper part1 to vary and enliven the effect of the different designs of the embroidery4 ,in another case is extended the front-piece1 worn together with the robe1 which is open in front4 ,the robe sits nearly in the fashion of a lady's cloak1 but perfectly stiff1 and widening as it descends1 so much as to make the figure assume the appearance of a triangle1 of which the base is longer than the two other sides4 ,the opening in front corresponds with the outline of the two sides1 being wider below than above1 although not in as great a degree4 ,this opening is occupied by the front-piece1 which is much smaller than the robe1 but still more valuable1 being principally worked in brilliants4 ,it contains also every variety of precious stones1 introduced as their colours may happen to accord with the design4 ,in addition to these is shown the dress of the ,bambino1 similar in materials to the two others2 but the pearls and diamonds more equally distributed4 ,but the marvel of this costume is the crown4 ,this ornament adds to the splendour of its materials1 the most exquisite and elaborate workmanship4 ,it would require hours to appreciate the labour and taste displayed in all its details4 ,marshal ,soult1 could he but see it1 would order masses for the soul of the prelate who spared him such a temptation4 ,the diamonds1 especially those which compose a cross surmounting the centre1 are of the purest water1 and of immense size4 ,but in the midst of the dazzling and harmonious intricacy of this gem of all colours1 there is a centre of attraction1 which took my fancy more than the rest4 ,immediately under the centre ball1 an immense spherical emerald1 which supports the diamond cross1 is a small bird suspended on a hook within the crown4 ,all the parts of this bird are composed of white enamel1 except the body1 around which the wings1 legs1 neck1 and head1 are attached1 and which consists of a pearl of an oval form1 about the size of a sparrow's egg4 ,the movement of the statue during a procession1 keeps the bird 7hanging from its hook7 in constant agitation1 and produces the effect of a living bird enclosed in a cage of precious stones4#f ,a pair of bracelets1 possessing no less magnificence than the crown1 but rather too heavy and bulky to be graceful1 are suspended in the same recess1 and worn on the same occasions4 ,it should not be forgotten1 as a proof of the judgment shown in the choice of ornaments1 which1 as far as regards the front1 consist principally of diamonds1 that the complexion of the ,virgin of the ,sagrario1 is more than dark--in fact1 quite black4#g ,the innermost of the three apartments forming the chapel of the ,sagrario is called the ,ochavo1 and is the deposit of a collection of relics of all kinds4 ,it is an octagon1 surmounted at an elevation of more than double its diameter by a dome ornamented with excellent painting4 ,the walls are faced with the best ,spanish marbles4 ,each of the eight sides contains an open recess reaching to the first cornice--an elevation of about twenty-five feet2 and in these recesses are contained all the valuable relics belonging to the cathedral2--a rich display of silver statues1 reliquaries1 coffins1 chests1 and crosses of gold and silver1 some containing jewels of great value4 ,a silver statue of ,saint ,ferdinand wearing a golden crown is among the objects most worthy of remark2 also a cross containing a portion of the true cross1 presented to the cathedral by ,st4 ,louis4 ,this and several other relics1 such as a phial containing the ,virgin's milk1 a portion of our ,saviour's purple garment1 c41 were presented to the cathedral by ,st4 ,louis on his return from the east1 and are here preserved1 together with the letter in his own hand-writing1 which accompanied them4 ,the ,virgin of the ,sagrario receives by far the greatest share of devotion brought to the numerous shrines of this vast temple1 even greater than that offered at the high altar4 ,more masses are performed at her altar than at all the others added together4 ,the aisles facing her antechapel are constantly filled with a crowd of kneeling votaries4 ,she stands in the second enclosure1 turning her back to the ,ochavo4 ,an iron railing separates her apartment from the first chapel1 which is usually open to the aisles4 ,she stands consequently in full view1 magnificently robed in a fac simile imitation of her pearl dress1 the original being only worn on one or two occasions during the year4 ,the interior of the ,capilla ,mayor1 is ornamented with several rows of statues1 and some handsome funereal monuments1 forming together a sort of transparent wall of sculpture on each of its sides4 ,in the midst of a series of mitred archbishops1 and coroneted princes1 the figure of a peasant occupies one of the most conspicuous positions4 ,it stands on the left side1 as you face the ,high ,altar1 and about twenty feet from the pavement4 ,this statue represents a celebrated historical personage4 ,alonzo the ,eighth1 when penetrating across the ,sierra ,morena into ,andalucia1 in search of the ,moorish army under the ,king of ,morocco1 ,mahomed ben ,jacob1 was in danger of losing the fruit of his exertions1 in bringing together the forces of the ,kings of ,aragon and ,navarre1 together with numerous other confederates4 ,he had led the combined army into a defile1 in which he would have had to receive the attack of the ,moor at an insuperable disadvantage4 ,the hostile forces occupied a height called the ,puerto del ,miradal4 ,it was at the moment that retreat was the subject of deliberation1 that a peasant presented himself1 and offered to guide the army out of the pass4 ,having assured himself of the man's sincerity1 ,alonzo put himself under his conduct1 and was led to the summit of the mountain1 where he found himself on the border of an immense plain4 ,this decided the great victory of las ,navas de ,tolosa gained over the ,moors on the #afth of ,july1 #abab4 ,alonzo ordered a statue of the peasant to be placed in this cathedral4 ,he is represented in a costume not unlike that of an ancient ,roman rustic1 a sort of tunic reaching to the knees1 and his face is covered with a profuse beard4 ,the interior of the choir is the work of ,felipe de ,borgoa1 and ,berruguete2 the latter having been employed1 after the death of ,felipe de ,borgoa1 in #aedh1 in continuing the sculptures4 ,the entire south side was left for him to complete2 after which he added a group in marble1 representing the ,transfiguration1 placed rather injudiciously1 since it out-tops the screen or back of the choir2 thus presenting to the view of those who enter from the western or grand entrance1 and who are more likely to have come with the intention of viewing the ornaments1 than the canons who are seated in the choir--the back of the subject1 or rather1 forms which represent no subject whatever4 ,there is a ,virgin on a pedestal in the centre of the eastern end of the choir1 turning her back to the bronze railing which separates it from the transept4 ,this statue has occupied its present position ever since the erection of the cathedral2 and it is probable would long since have quitted it1 but for a still greater inconvenience consequent on its removal4 ,the attempt was recently made1 when a mass of water issued with much violence from beneath the pedestal1 and putting to flight the canons who were assembled to preside at the operation1 instantly inundated the whole church4 ,the virgin occupies probably the site of the fountain which must have been the centre of the court1 at the period of the existence of the mosque4 ,however that may be1 the spot is the exact centre of the present edifice4 ,at the two eastern angles of the quadrangle1 formed by the intersection of the transept and principal nave1 close to the railing of the capilla mayor are two pulpits of bronze1 excellently wrought2 supported on short pillars of rare marbles4 ,illustration3 ,,interior ,,of ,,the ,,cathedral1 ,,toledo4 ,a tall pyramidal ,gothic edifice#h of gilded and painted wood1 rising to the full height of the ceiling1 stands in front of a column of the second nave from the north side4 ,all its sides are open1 and furnished with bronze railings1 through which is seen an altar1 raised on three or four steps4 ,in the centre of the altar is inserted a marble slab--a highly prized relic1 being the stone on which the ,virgin placed her foot on the occasion of her appearing in the cathedral in propri person to the ,archbishop ,san ,ildefonzo4 ,this peculiar favour bestowed on the saint--and a robe with which she invested him with her own hands1 were bestowed1 according to the historian ,mariana1 in recompense of his zeal in opposing the doctrine of the two ,frenchmen1 ,pelagio and ,helvidio1 whose writings and preachings tended to shake the belief in the virginity of the ,saviour's mother4 ,the occurrence is thus described3 ,the night immediately preceding the feast of the ,annunciation1 the archbishop entered the church1 surrounded by several of the clergy4 ,as they entered1 the cathedral appeared filled with a brilliant light4 ,those who accompanied the saint1 overcome with terror1 turned and fled4 ,remaining alone1 he advanced to the foot of the high altar1 and fell on his knees2 when1 on the chair from which it was his custom to deliver his exhortations to the people1--clothed in more than human majesty--appeared the mother of ,christ1 who addressed him in the following words3--',this gift1 brought from ,heaven1 shall be the reward of the virginity which thou hast preserved in thy body1 joined with purity of mind1 and ardour of faith2 and for having defended our virginity4' ,having thus spoken1 she placed on him1 with her own hands1 a robe1 which she commanded him to wear on the celebration of her festivals1 and those of her ,son4 ,the representations of this scene1 from which is derived the claim of superior sanctity assumed by this cathedral1 are multiplied both in marble and on canvas in all parts of the edifice1 as well as in almost all the churches of ,toledo4 ,in most cases1 the execution of them has been intrusted to unskilful hands4 ,the best specimen is that executed in marble over the small altar ,i have just noticed4 ,it is remarkable for the graceful and good-humoured expression of the ,virgin1 and the easy1 almost merry1 demeanour of her celestial attendants4 ,the marble box which contains the ,host is let into the altar-piece1 of which it appears to form a part of the surface1 only projecting slightly as its sides are convex4 ,turning on a pivot1 it presents four different fronts1 each representing1 in well executed relief1 a different scene in the ,virgin's life4 ,,letter ,x4 ,,caf,s4 ,,wedding ,,ceremony4 ,,cathedral ,,continued4 ,,alcazar ,,hospital ,,of ,,santa ,,cruz4 ,,convent ,,of ,,la ,,conception4 ,,mysterious ,,cavern4 ,,convent ,,of ,,santa ,,fe1 ,,or ,,of ,,santiago4 ,,sons-,,in-,,law ,,of ,,the ,,cid4 ,toledo4 ,one of the first contrasts between this and other countries1 which forces itself on the observation1 is the amalgamation of the different classes of society in public places of resort4 ,the grandee is far too sure of his personal importance and consideration1 to entertain any fear of its being diminished by contact with those of inferior rank2 and the peasant is far too proud to importune his superiors by any indiscreet efforts at familiarity4 ,at ,burgos ,i found the ,gefe politico1 or governor of the province1 sipping his lemonade in the evening at the caf2 his elbow brushing the back of a mayoral of a diligence1 and surrounded by an assemblage of all classes of the male inhabitants of the town4 ,these cafs are curious establishments2 they are divided into two classes--the ,caf1 properly so called1 and the ,botilleria--in which tea and coffee are not usually called for1 but all the other refreshments of the caf2 such as helados 7frozen beverages of all sorts71 sorbetes 7ices71 liqueurs1 wines1 etc4 ,these latter are the resort1 in some towns1 of both sexes1 and indeed the cafs also in a less degree4 ,but the etiquette in these things differs in the different provinces4 ,at ,madrid1 where foreign customs first penetrate1 ladies are rarely seen in these resorts2 by which they are considerable losers4 ,no doubt1 were the attractions of ,french cafs sufficiently powerful1 your sex would not have withered them1 by their disdain1 into the uncivilized dens which they are4 ,you are not of course invited by the billiard tables1 or by the allurements of black coffee and cognac2 but were the waiters to set before you a tumbler of frozen lemonade after a ,july evening's dusty walk1 you would speedily bring such habits into fashion4 ,much as the refreshments of ,spanish cafs have been celebrated1 their fame is surpassed by the reality4 ,it is only when you have panted through a southern summer's day1 and breathed an atmosphere of fire1 that you are disposed to receive the illustration of the full sense of the word refreshment2 and it is then they hand you a brobdignag goblet1 brim full of frozen orange-water or lemonade1 or snow-white orgeat--which1 from the imperceptible inroads made by the teaspoon on its closing-up surface1 appears likely to last you the whole night4 ,these and other similar luxuries1 including the ices1 at which those of a ,grange or ,tortoni would melt with jealousy1 are plentiful in second and third-rate towns1 and rank among the necessaries of life1 rather than as objects of indulgence4 ,they are of course cheap1 or it would not answer4 ,the poor apply to the distributors of iced barley-water1 who carry about a sort of cask1 strapped between their shoulders1 and containing ice in the centre1 to maintain the frigidity of the beverage4 ,by lowering and advancing the left shoulder1 the vendor pours the contents of the cask through a small neck or pipe into the glasses1 which he carries in a flat basket with cellaret partitions4 ,a tumbler of this costs a halfpenny2 its imbibing occupies two or three minutes1 and assuages for hours the sufferings of the thirstiest palate4 ,at ,madrid1 the cafs have each its political colour2 except that called del ,principe1 after the adjoining theatre4 ,in this1 politics are less characterised1 literature having here taken up her quarters4 ,it is probable that she is a less profitable customer1 being habitually less thirsty4 ,accordingly1 on putting your head into the door1 you see a saloon far more brilliantly lighted up than the others2 but the peripatetic doctrines seem to prevail4 ,few persons are seated at the tables2 and instead of the more profitable wear and tear of broken glasses1 the proprietor probably finds substituted a thankless annual item for worn out floors4 ,in the same street there is a club2 but this is an exotic importation and on the exclusive plan1 not quite of ,london1 but of the ,paris cercles4 ,in the cafs of ,toledo1 on the days of fiesta1 the fair sex predominates1 especially in summer4 ,the great resort is1 however1 the ,zocodover1 from nine to ten in the evening4 ,this little irregularly formed plaza is crowded like an assembly-room1 and possesses its rows of trees1 although a respectable oak would almost fill it4 ,a soire has occasionally been known to be given in ,toledo1 but it is an occurrence of much rarity1 and mostly occasioned by some unusual event1--the arrival of a public singer1 or1 still more unusual1 a newly made fortune4 ,the other evening ,i was admitted to one1 the pretext for which was a wedding4 ,this ceremony takes place at the residence of the bride1 and although a subsequent formality is necessary in the ,church1 its delay does not defer the validity of the union1 nor its consummation4 ,the wedding-day arrived1 the families and friends of both parties assemble at eight in the evening4 ,the bride was distinguishable by a white veil or mantilla in the middle seat of a sofa1 between her mother and sister1 who rose to receive the guests4 ,a narrow table had been dressed up into a temporary altar1 and furnished with a crucifix and candles4 ,all the party being arrived1 a priest left his chair1 and entered an adjoining room to robe2 on his reappearance the company rose and flocked round the bride and bridegroom1 who stood together before the priest1 doing penance each with a long wax-light in the right hand1 held in a muslin handkerchief4 ,the ceremony lasts about ten minutes without any change of posture4 ,the priest departs to unrobe2 the miserable bride and blushing bridegroom receive felicitations2 and all resume their seats1 and look at each other4 ,presently chocolate was handed round1 and an attempt at conversational murmur commenced1 afterwards ices4 ,and now the minister took a formal leave of the company1 after complimenting the bride4 ,two or three other holy men1 obedient to the signal1 carried out their interminable hats before them3 when a sudden revolution broke out4 ,at the closing of the door on the hindmost ecclesiastic the bridegroom rushed to the altar1 and grasping with one hand the crucifix1 and with the other two of the candlesticks1 ran to the apartment that had assumed the character of vestry1 and deposited them there1 followed by officious friends bearing the remaining articles1 until every awe-compelling symbol had disappeared4 ,one or two guitars were extracted from their hiding-places under sofas1 and sent forth careless but lively preludes4 ,the men stood up and circulated2 the women talked and laughed2 a quadrille was speedily formed1 and concluded2 waltzing followed1 and forfeits1 and whatever you like1 and--the arrangements were on a scale of costly magnificence1 and the festivities were prolonged1 c4 ,but these events are rare in ,toledo4 ,the every-day amusements consist in an infamous theatre1 and the promenade2 this is only on ,saints' days2 but these are almost every day4 ,on six or seven occasions in the year1 these promenades are absolute events1 and much looked forward to4 ,it is necessary to inquire which is the promenade patronised by the saint of the great day1 whoever he is1 and take your place in the tide1 for no one absents himself4 ,dresses for these celebrations are things pre-meditated2 and the effect produced1 and all the little events and rencontres of the day form for each belle1 thrilling subjects of retrospection4 ,mantillas may be trimmed1 and innocent plots woven for these occasions1 without danger of disappointment by clouds or storms2 and instead of the ,virgin being implored that the sun may shine1 who never disappoints them1 she is sometimes requested to inspire some ruse for a momentary escape from his too searching effulgence4 ,here may fair foreigners feast their eyes on fawn-coloured majos1 whose every step 7although no more exalted beings than butchers1 postilions1 horsedealers1 and such like7 would be envied by ,antinous and ,apollo4 ,i should advise no veils1 nor winkings1 nor blinkings on these occasions1 but eyes wide open--for never more 7the ,pyrenees once repassed7 will their orbits expand to the forms and costumes of blackguards half so beautiful4 ,but these are subjects slightly unsuited to the interior of the cathedral1 of our presence in which we are evidently forgetful4 ,the ,mozarabic ,chapel1 founded by ,cardinal ,ximenes de ,cisneros1 is situated under the southern tower1 and contains a ,virgin and ,child executed in ,mosaic1 and a curious old fresco painting1 representing the battle of ,oran1 at which the ,cardinal was victorious over the ,arabs4 ,this chapel is set apart for the performance of the ,mozarabic ritual1 still retained by a portion of the population of ,toledo1 and the exercise of which was continued in several churches1 until the closing of some of them at the recent revolution4 ,the ,arab conquerors of ,spain exercised towards the religion of the country1 the most complete and liberal tolerance4 ,all who preferred remaining in the conquered towns to flight and exile1 were allowed to retain a sufficient number of places of worship for the free exercise of their religion4 ,on the subsequent introduction of the ,italian missal1 those who retained the ancient gothic forms were called ,mozarabes 7mixti ,arabes1 according to some1 from their service being the same as that in use during the co-existence together of the two creeds74 ,a more probable origin is attributed to the expression by some antiquaries1 who derive it from ,muza1 the name of the ,moorish general4 ,the mass of the ,christians who had taken refuge in the ,asturias1 applied the term to their brethren1 who preferred accepting from the ,arabs what they considered a degrading tolerance4 ,the following singular mode of decision was adopted for the purpose of settling the question between the two missals4 ,the ,king1 ,alonzo the ,sixth1 the ,archbishop ,don ,bernardo1 and the court1 were among the advocates of the new missal1 which1 being adopted in ,rome1 they were very desirous of establishing on the occasion of the restoration of the ,christian supremacy at ,toledo4 ,the mass of the people were attached to their ancient forms4 ,it was resolved that the question should be decided by an appeal to a sort of neutral power2 and ,mars was selected1 probably on account of his being a person disinterested in the affair4 ,a champion was chosen by each party1 and a day appointed for settling the difference by single combat4 ,accordingly1 the court1 the clergy1 and the people being assembled1 the representatives of the two missals took their station1 lance in rest1 and on the appointed signal spurred to the encounter4 ,the ancient missal was approved of by the warlike god2 but the ,king and his party were dissatisfied with the result1 and resolved on another trial4 ,a large fire was lighted in the principal plaza1 and the two missals were thrown into it4 ,again the ancient forms conquered1 the rival parchment having caught the flame and being drawn out in a blaze4 ,the populace now commenced a cry of triumph2 but1 to their great disappointment1 the ,king1 in his quality of umpire1 pronounced a judgment which he might as easily have put in execution before the trials3 namely1 that considering that the ,roman ,missal1 although on fire1 was not consumed1 they were both equally agreeable to the deity--they should therefore both be preserved1 and that some of the more ancient churches should continue the exercise of the ,mozarabic service1 while the ,roman ritual should be established in the metropolitan temple1 and in the greater number of the parishes4 ,before we leave the cathedral1 the cloister claims our attention4 ,it is a spacious and handsome quadrangle1 inclosing a garden4 ,the eastern wall is adorned with excellent frescos of comparatively modern date1 and all bearing the same signature--,francisco ,bayeu4 ,there are seven subjects on that side1 being the number of intervals corresponding with the arcades1 and three more continuing down another side4 ,the best are two1 taken from the history of ,saint ,casilda2 and three from that of ,san ,eugenio1 first archbishop of ,toledo1 martyrised in ,france4 ,the arcades on the east side are shut in by large pieces of sail-cloth1 in order to protect the paintings against the sun's rays4 ,the library of manuscripts belonging to this cathedral is distinguished rather by the quality than the quantity of its contents4 ,it is approached by a staircase communicating with the cloister1 and is a handsome room4 ,it contains a copy of the ,talmud on the papyrus leaves1 and in the ,coptic dialect4 ,the following are also among its treasures3 ,the ,book of ,esther in ,hebrew1 on a single piece of parchment2 two bibles of the seventh century1 one of which belonged to ,st4 ,isidore2 the missal used by ,charles the ,fifth in the monastery of ,yuste2 the poems of ,dante1 manuscript of the poet's time1 with illustrations2 the laws of ,alonso the ,tenth 7surnamed the wise71 and a volume of his poetical works1 with the music opposite those intended to be sung3 two ancient ,chinese volumes1 one on botany1 the other on natural history1 both illustrated4 ,the next edifice ,i visited was the ,alcazar1 the largest and most conspicuous building in ,toledo4 ,i expected to find there some ,arab and ,roman remains1 having so read in more than one tour4 ,it was not until some time after my visit that ,i obtained the information that the ,moorish palace occupied a different site4 ,the present comparatively modern building is principally of two epochs4 ,on the east is the original portion erected by ,alonzo the ,sixth4 ,the entire north and south fronts are probably additions of ,philip the ,second4 ,the whole partakes of a divided character between castle and palace3 it is not remarkable for any architectural merit1 possessing neither beauty as a palace1 nor solidity as a fortress2 and having been occupied as a military position during the war of the succession1 and more recently in that of independence1 its being already a ruin1 before its modern appearance would seem to legitimize such a state1 causes no surprise4 ,but its position is superb4 ,occupying the most elevated point of the town1 it far exceeds the whole by the immense height of its walls1 and commands an admirable view of the surrounding country4 ,the only object deserving notice in this ruin is a colossal staircase1 which occupies an entire side of the court1--a length of about two hundred and fifty feet1--and is ornamented by a light and elegant colonnade4 ,this edifice ceased to be a palace on the final establishment of the court at ,madrid1 and after some time became the manufactory whence issued the famous silk and velvet brocades1 the fabrication of which has now ceased1 but with which ,toledo formerly supplied the wardrobes of the court1 and the well-garnished sacristies of ,spain's wealthiest cathedrals4 ,descending from the ,alcazar through the ,plaza de ,zocodover1 and thence towards the bridge of ,alcantara1 a few yards from the ,plaza bring us in view of the faade of the ,hospital of ,santa ,cruz1 or de los nios expositos1--foundling hospital4 ,the institution owes its origin to the ,archbishop1 ,don ,pedro ,gonzalez de ,mendoza1 called the ,great ,cardinal of ,spain4 ,although death prevented his witnessing the execution of his project1 his fortune1 administered by his next relatives and executors1--the ,queen ,isabella1 and the ,duke of ,infantado1--was employed in the erection of the buildings1 and in the endowment of the establishment4 ,the plans and conditions were not even drawn up until after the ,cardinal's death2 and they were never entirely put in execution4 ,the church consists of one nave1 of a length out of all proportion to its width and elevation4 ,it was to have been crossed by another of the same proportions1 with the exception of the elevation1 which was to have been eighty feet in both4 ,this combined with the length--about three hundred and fifty feet1 as is seen in the existing nave1--would have rendered the edifice one of the most extraordinary in existence4 ,the altar was to have stood in the centre of the intersection of the two naves4 ,as it is1 the long bare interior looks as though it had been destined for a picture gallery or library1 but rather for the latter from the low-coved roof of cedar1 and from the inadequate distribution of light4 ,to the left of the altar is seen a portrait of the founder2 and on the opposite side1 about a hundred feet further down the nave1 a large ,adoration1--a superior painting1 especially with regard to the colouring3 the author unknown4 ,there are two large courts surrounded by arcades3 one of them is a model of lightness and beauty1 and contains in one of its angles an admirably ornamented staircase4 ,the architect of the ,santa ,cruz was ,enrique ,egas1 who also built the celebrated hospital of the same name at ,valladolid4 ,he designed the whole according to the style then introduced1 after the pointed style had been abandoned1 and which in ,spain received vulgarly the appellation of ,plateresco1 from the ornaments resembling the embossing of a silversmith4 ,it is also confounded with the ,renacimiento4 ,the ,plateresco style1 from the too great liberty it afforded the architect1 of setting aside the classic models1 and following his own inventions1 has produced in ,spain1 more than in any other country1 7from there being at that period more wealth devoted to the construction of public monuments there than elsewhere17 the evil effects resulting from ill-guided and unrestrained powers of imagination4 ,fortunately1 however1 a few architects existed whose more correct taste kept them within some bounds2 and who1 in deserting the old models1 replaced them by a style1 if less pure1 yet by no means inelegant4 ,the architect ,egas appears to have partaken of both natures at different moments2 for1 while his court above-mentioned is a specimen of consummate grace and good taste1 the entrance front of the building is one of the bad examples of the style of the period4 ,the establishment covers a large space1 about half the extent occupied by the double palace of the ,arab kings of ,toledo4 ,the remainder of the site contains two convents1--that of ,santiago1 and that of the ,conception4 ,the hospital was conducted formerly on a scale proportionate to the extent of its accommodation2 but it is now no more than a reminiscence2 the revenues having probably been incorporated in the recent registrations of national property4 ,the number of inmates at present enjoying the benefits of the foundation amounts to fourteen only4 ,the ,convent of la ,conception adjoins the hospital of ,santa ,cruz4 ,from the exterior are seen two churches1 placed in close parallel contact1 and each composed of a single nave4 ,both are evidently very ancient1 one being in the ,arab style2 but the form of the other renders it probable that it is the more ancient of the two4 ,you are disappointed after being shown this last1 on being informed that the ,moorish portion is forbidden ground1 being appropriated by the nuns to their private use1 and possessing no communication with the adjoining edifice1 but a curtained grating1 through which its secluded inmates assist at religious services4 ,in the public church1 a singular ornament figures on a conspicuous part of the wall near the entrance2 it is the carcass of a large crocodile1 fixed high enough to be out of reach1 although no one would be likely to purloin so unwieldy a curiosity4 ,we are told the animal frequented the neighbourhood of ,toledo2 where1 under cover of the pine forests1 which formerly extended far over this mountainous region1 its existence had long filled with terror the few travellers whom their mercantile pursuits compelled to pass within its accustomed haunts3 that at length a knight 7it was in the reign of ,ferdinand and ,isabella7 clothed in a full suit of armour1 rode forth from ,toledo1 fully resolved to try conclusions with the monster1 in order if possible to immortalize his name throughout the surrounding regions1 by ridding them of so dire a scourge4 ,the battle took place1 and victory declaring for the knight1 whose name unfortunately does not figure in the legend1--he assembled the peasants1 and had his enemy's carcass borne in triumph to ,toledo1 where he made a present of it to the convent4 ,while on the subject of traditions1 it is worth while adverting to a cavern1 the entrance of which exists in this part of the town2 and which is said to extend to a distance of eight miles1 passing under the ,tagus4 ,it is related that somewhat less than a century back1 the government ordered this cavern to be explored2 but the exploring party was met at the commencement of the descent by so violent a gust of wind1 as to extinguish all the torches1 and the courage of the explorers1 for the attempt was never resumed4 ,the failure by no means contributed to diminish the mysterious qualities attributed to the cavern1 on the subject of which the wildest notions are currently entertained4 ,a worthy and excellent native of ,toledo1 to whose antiquarian enthusiasm 7a quality doubly valuable here from its scarcity7 ,i am indebted for some information and much entertainment1 undertook one day to enlighten me with regard to the origin of this subterranean curiosity4 ,commencing by warning my credulity against the innumerable fables current on the subject1 and which only resembled each other in their absurdity and impossibility1 he added1 ,the real fact is this1--the cavern is the work of ,hercules1 who excavated it for the accommodation of the assemblies of the people1 whom he instructed in the elements of magic4 ,the convent of ,santiago1 or of ,santa ,f1 or of ,las monjas santiagistas1 or ,las cavalleras1 occupies the portion of the ancient ,moorish alcazar1 remaining from the site of the two last-mentioned buildings4 ,it is built round two courts1 one of which is divided into planted parterres1 intersected with brick-paved walks4 ,the architecture of this first court is very simple2 it consists of a plain arcade of semicircular arches supported on square piers1 and a repetition of the same on the first story4 ,from this court opens the parlour of the ,commendadora or abbess1 and the choir1 which forms a continuation of the public chapel4 ,there is also under the arcade a folding door1 which1 when opened exhibits a collection of small pictures attached to it1 as on the leaves of an album1 and others suspended against the portion of wall it encloses4 ,the centre painting of these last represents the ,mater dolorosa weeping over the dead body of her ,son4 ,it has much of the manner of ,alonzo ,cano1 and is an admirable painting1 more especially the dead body3 the superior1 however1 did not know the name of the artist4 ,she complained bitterly of the loss of a first-rate picture of the ,divino ,morales1 which formerly occupied the place of her little collection1 and which was taken possession of by ,marshal ,soult4 ,the second court is highly ornamental owing to the elegance of its architecture1 and its magnificent proportions2 it is a long quadrangle2 the pillars below are very lofty1 and support the gallery above without intermediate arches4 ,they are not of a pure design1 the shafts being too long for their diameter3 in other respects they imitate the ,tuscan order4 ,those of the arcade above are ,ionic2 but the effect here is destroyed by walls and windows1 which have been constructed in their intervals1 for the purpose of converting the open gallery into a warmer corridor4 ,the walls below are clothed to the height of about four feet with the azulejos1 or porcelain mosaic1 of the sort originally employed by the ,arabs1 and from which the ornament took its name1 being blue and white1 without any other colour4 ,opening from this court is the ,sala ,capitular a handsome saloon used on occasions of elections of the ,commendadora1 or other solemnities1 which do not take place in the church4 ,it contains a portrait of the sister of ,st4 ,ferdinand1--a member of the community2 and a curious picture of ,st4 ,iago leading to victory the christian army of ,don ,ramiro the ,first4 ,in fulfilment of a promise made to the king the night preceding the battle of ,albayde1 the apostle1 according to the historians1 led the army in person1 mounted on a milk-white charger1 which cantered along at a sufficient elevation over the heads of the combatants1 to be visible to all2 thus inspiring1 simultaneously1 his protgs with confidence1 and the ,moors with terror4 ,from that victory the ,spanish war-cry of ,santiago is said to derive its origin4 ,the buildings on the north side of the large court stand on the brink of a perpendicular rock1 overhanging the faubourg on the ,madrid side of ,toledo1 and commanding right and left the luxuriant vega1 to an extent of from forty to fifty miles4 ,over the highest story of this portion of the building1 and forming a continuation of the rock1 a ,belvidere has been constructed1 the roof of which is supported by piers1 leaving all the sides open3 it forms a promenade of about a hundred feet in length1 by twenty-five in width4 ,the regulations of this convent are much less strict than those observed by all other religious communities4 ,it would not otherwise have been possible to obtain permission to visit the establishment in detail4 ,the monjas cavalleras 7knight-nuns7 of the military order of ,santiago1 take the white veil only1 and not the black4 ,if a nun inherits a property1 she obtains permission from the council of military orders1 sitting at ,madrid1 to absent herself from the convent for the purpose of transacting all necessary business4 ,the same permission may be obtained in cases of illness4 ,in taking the vows there is no prostration beneath the veil4 ,the novice crosses her hands in a kneeling posture1 and takes the oath on the ,gospel4 ,one is struck by something invincibly puzzling in this amalgamation of military regulation with religious hierarchy and female seclusion4 ,they call themselves knights2 their abbess1 commander4 ,the king1 as ,grand ,master of the military orders 7since ,ferdinand the ,fifth7 of ,calatrava1 ,alcantara1 and ,santiago1 is their recognised chief2 and whenever military mass is required to be performed1 the troops march into their chapel to beat of drum4 ,i was even assured that these recluses are not obliged to refuse a hand offered for a waltz1 if it belongs to an arm having an epaulette at its other extremity2 and that such scenes are known to occur in the presence of the commandress herself4 ,our party1 formed for the visit to this convent1 having been presented to the superior1 she gave directions to a nun to show us every part of the establishment4 ,this sister1 who1 we were told1 bore the title and rank of serjeantess 7sargenta71 possessed the remains of great beauty1 and her 7probably7 forty summers had not injured her commanding and graceful figure4 ,no sooner had she ushered us into the choir than she left us for an instant1 and returned with her mantle of ceremony1--the costume in which they take the vow1 and in which they appear on all occasions of solemnity4 ,it was with evident satisfaction that she performed this part of her duties of cicerone2 nor was it to be wondered at4 ,no costume could have been invented better calculated to set off her natural advantages4 ,it is composed of a sort of white serge1 and appears to have no seam4 ,attached round the shoulders it sweeps the ground with a train of four or five feet4 ,a cross of scarlet cloth1 bound with dark brown edges1 and of a graceful form1 figures on the portion which covers the left arm from the shoulder to the elbow4 ,the white cap1 gathered all over into minute plaits1 rises into two parallel ridges1 which passing over to the back of the head1 imitate the form of a helmet4 ,two large lappets descend to the shoulders and complete the costume1 which is entirely white1 with the exception of the cross4 ,in walking round the choir to display to us the effect of this dress1 the fair santiagista was a model of majesty and grace4 ,to judge from her replies to our questions1 it would appear that the system of softening the severity of monastic seclusion1 and of partial and occasional communication with the beings of the outer world1 instead of producing more contentment in the minds of the recluses1 may possibly tend to unsettle them1 and render them more dissatisfied with their lot4 ,when asked how long she had inhabited the convent1 she replied with an unrestrained and most pathetic inflation of the chest1 more eloquent than the loudest complaint--,a very long time2 nearly twenty years4 ,the white mantle1 she told us1 was an object the sight of which always gave birth to serious reflections2 since it was destined not even to quit her after death1 but to serve also for her shroud4 ,illustration3 ,,costume ,,of ,a ,,military ,,nun4 ,the nun's choir is entirely separated from the public chapel1 with the exception of two gratings1 which admit to the latter the sound of the organ1 and through which the nuns have a better view of the church than the public can obtain of the choir1 this being less lighted1 and on a lower level4 ,near the choir a small oratory of no greater dimensions than about seven feet square1 appears to be the only remains extant of the ,arab buildings1 which occupied the site4 ,the ceiling is hemispherical1 and ornamented in the ,arab style2 and one of the walls contains a niche surrounded by ,arab tracery4 ,i should mention likewise a fountain in the garden1 which bears a similar character4 ,these nuns live less in community with each other than those of other convents2 in fact1 their life resembles in many respects that of independent single ladies4 ,each inhabits her own suite of apartments1 and keeps her own servant4 ,her solitary repasts are prepared in her own separate kitchen1 and at the hour chosen by herself4 ,once a-year only1 on the occasion of the festival of the patron ,apostle1 the community assembles at dinner4 ,the common refectory is at present let to strangers1 together with other portions of the convent4 ,the novice who wishes to enter this convent must be of good family1 7proof of noble descent being demanded up to grand-fathers and grandmothers inclusive7 and possessed of property4 ,of the entrance of the present commendadora into the convent thirty years since1 a romantic story is related4 ,she belongs to a family of rank in the province of ,la ,mancha1--and it is worth mentioning1 that she recollects ,espartero's father1 who1 as she states1 served a neighbouring family in the capacity of cowherd4 ,a match1 de convenance1 had been arranged for her by her parents1 on the accomplishment of which they insisted the more rigidly from her being known to entertain an attachment1 the object of which was disapproved4 ,no resistance being of any avail1 the wedding-day was named2 and she was taken to ,toledo for the purpose of making the necessary purchases for the occasion4 ,it so happened that she was received by a relative1 a member of the community of ,santiagistas2 and whether she confided her pains to the bosom of this relative1 and yielded to her persuasions--nuns being usually given to proselytism2 or perhaps acting on the impulse of the moment2 she declared on the morning after her arrival her resolution never to quit the convent2 preferring1 as she resolutely affirmed1 an entire life of seclusion1 to an union with a man she detested4 ,instead1 therefore1 of the wedding dresses1 a manton capitular was the only ornament purchased4 ,the property of this establishment remaining for the most part in possession of the respective original possessors1 and not forming a common stock1 the conscientious scruples of the revolution made an exception in its favour1 owing to which it is not reduced to so destitute a condition as that of the other unclosed convents4 ,the nuns of ,san ,clemente--the principal convent of ,toledo1 and of which the abbess alone possessed private property1 are reduced to a life of much privation1 as are also those of all the other convents4 ,some obtain presents in return for objects of manual industry1 such as dolls' chairs1 and other similar toys4 ,those of ,san ,clemente had1 and still have1 a reputation for superior skill in confectionary4 ,a specimen of their talent1 of which ,i had an opportunity of judging in the house of a friend of the abbess1 appeared to me to warrant the full extent of their culinary fame4 ,they do not1 however1 exercise this art for gain4 ,at ,san ,clemente1 and no doubt at all the others1 the new government--besides the confiscation of all rents and possessions in money and land--seized the provisions of corn and fruits which they found on searching the attics of the building4 ,immediately below the ruined modern ,alcazar1 and facing the ,expositos1 is seen a vast quadrangular building1 each front of which presents from twenty to thirty windows on a floor4 ,it is without ornament1 and is entered by a square doorway1 which leads to an interior court4 ,it is now an inn1 called ,fonda de la ,caridad1 but was originally the residence of the ,cid1 who built it simultaneously with the erection of the ,alcazar1 by ,alonzo the ,sixth1 shortly after the taking of the town2 ,ruy ,diaz being at that time in high favour1 and recently appointed first ,alcalde of ,toledo1 and governor of the palace4 ,it was on the occasion of the first cortez held in this town1 that the hero demanded a formal audience of ,alonzo1 in which he claimed justice against his two sons-in-law1 the counts of ,carrion4 ,these were two brothers1 who had married the two ,countesses of ,bivar4 ,on the occasion of the double marriage1 a brilliant party had assembled at the ,cid's residence1 where all sorts of festivities had succeeded each other4 ,the two bridegrooms1 finding themselves1 during their presence in this knightly circle1 in positions calculated to test their mettle1 instead of proving themselves1 by a display of unequalled valour and skill1 to be worthy of the choice by which they had been distinguished1 gave frequent proofs of deficiency in both qualities2 and1 long before the breaking up of the party1 their cowardice had drawn upon them unequivocal signs of contempt from many of the company1 including even their host4 ,obliged to dissimulate their vexation as long as they remained at the chteau of the ,cid1 they concerted a plan of vengeance to be put in execution on their departure4 ,they took formal leave1 and departed with their brides for their estate1 followed by a brilliant suite4 ,no sooner1 however1 had they reached the first town1 than1 inventing a pretext1 they despatched all the attendants by a different route1 and proceeded on their journey1 only accompanied by their wives4 ,towards evening the road brought them to a forest1 which appeared to offer facilities for putting their project in execution4 ,here they quitted the highway1 and sought a retired situation4 ,it happened that an attendant of the ,countesses1 surprised at the determination of the party to divide routes1 had been led by curiosity to follow them unobserved4 ,this follower1 after having waited some time for their return to the high-road1 penetrated into the midst of the wood1 in order to discover the cause of the delay4 ,he found the two brides lying on the ground1 almost without clothing1 and covered with blood1 and learned that they had just been left by their husbands1 who had been scourging them almost to death4 ,it was against the perpetrators of this outrage that the ,cid pleaded for justice4 ,a certain number of nobles were selected by ,alonzo1 and directed to give a decision after hearing the accusation and the defence4 ,the offence being proved1 the ,counts had nothing to urge in extenuation1 and judgment was pronounced4 ,all the sums of money1 treasures1 gold and silver vases and goblets1 and precious stones1 given by the ,cid with his daughters as their dowry1 to be restored2 and 7at the request of ,ruy ,diaz7 the two ,counts of ,carrion1 and their uncle1 who had advised them to commit the act1 were condemned to enter the lists against three of the followers of the ,cid4 ,the last decision was momentarily evaded by the ,counts2 who urged1 that1 having come to ,toledo to be present at the cortez1 they were unprovided with the necessary accoutrements4 ,the ,king1 however1 insisted that they should not escape so mild a punishment1 and repaired himself to ,carrion1 where he witnessed the combat1 in which1 it is needless to add1 the culprits came off second best4 ,the marriages being1 at the same time1 declared null1 the ,cid's daughters were shortly afterwards married a second time2 the eldest1 ,doa ,elvira1 to ,don ,ramiro1 son of ,sancho1 ,king of ,navarre2 and the younger1 ,doa ,sol1 to ,don ,pedro1 hereditary ,prince of ,aragon4 ,,letter ,,xi4 ,,streets ,,of ,,toledo4 ,,el ,,ama ,,de ,,casa4 ,,monastery ,,of ,,san ,,juan ,,de ,,los ,,reyes4 ,,palace ,,of ,,don ,,hurtado ,,de ,,mendoza4 ,toledo4 ,we will now hasten to the opposite extremity of the city1 where the monastery of ,san ,juan de los ,reyes lays claim to especial interest4 ,but ,i already hear you cry for mercy1 and exclaim against these endless convents and monasteries2 the staircases1 courts1 and corridors of which cause more fatigue to your imagination1 than to the limbs of those who1 however laboriously1 explore their infinite details4 ,infinite they are1 literally1 in ,toledo2 where the churches1 the greater number of which belong to convents1 are not seen1 as elsewhere1 scattered singly among the masses of the habitations1 but are frequently to be found in clusters of three or four1 whether united by the same walls1 or facing each other at the two sides of a street4 ,it may1 perhaps1 afford you a short relief to pick your way over the somewhat rugged pavement of a few of the ,toledo streets1 and take a survey of the exterior town1 which our present destination requires us to traverse in its entire extent4 ,i must inform you that1 for the success of this enterprise1 the stranger stands in absolute need of a pilot1 without whose assistance his embarrassments would be endless4 ,toledo scarcely boasts a street in which two vehicles could meet and continue their route4 ,most are impassable for a single cart2 and1 in more than one1 ,i have found it impossible to carry an open umbrella4 ,such being the prevailing width of the streets1 their tortuous direction causes a more serious inconvenience4 ,he who has attempted the task of ,theseus1 in the mazes of some modern garden labyrinth1 will comprehend the almost inevitable consequence of relying on his own wits for finding his way about ,toledo1--namely1 the discovery that he has returned to his point of departure at the moment he imagined that half the town separated him from it4 ,this result is the more favoured by the similarity of the streets and houses4 ,no such thing as a land-mark4 ,all the convents are alike4 ,you recollect at a particular turning1 having observed a ,moorish tower2 consequently1 at the end of the day1 the sight of the ,moorish tower leads you on1 buoyed up by doubly elevated spirits1 in the required direction1 most anxious to bring the tiring excursion to a close3 but this tower leads you to the opposite extremity of the city to that you seek1 for there are half a dozen ,moorish towers1 all alike1 or with but a trifling difference in their construction4 ,nor is this obstacle to solitary exploration unaccompanied by another inconvenience4 ,i allude to the continual ascents and descents4 ,the surface of the mountain on which ,toledo is built1 appears to have been ploughed by a hundred earthquakes1 so cut and hacked is it1 to the exclusion of the smallest extent of level ground4 ,to carry a railroad across it1 would require an uninterrupted succession of alternate viaducts and tunnels4 ,in consequence of this peculiarity1 the losing one's way occasions much fatigue4 ,to do justice to the inhabitants1 an almost universal cleanliness pervades the town1--an excellence the attainment of which is not easy in a city so constructed1 and which gives a favourable impression of the population4 ,it is one of the towns in which is proved the possibility of carrying on a successful war against the vermin for which the ,peninsula has acquired so bad a reputation1 by means of cleanliness maintained in the houses4 ,in the house ,i inhabited on my arrival1 ,i had suspected for some days an unusual neglect in the duties of the housemaid1 to whose department it belonged to sweep the esteras or matting1 which serve for carpets1 from the circumstance of my having been visited by one or two unwelcome tormentors4 ,i ventured a gentle remonstrance to the ama 7landlady71 stating my reasons for the suspicion ,i entertained4 ,it happened that on the previous day ,i had mentioned my having been shown over the ,archbishop's palace4 ,this she had not forgotten2 for with a superb coolness1 scarcely to be met with out of ,spain1 she replied1 ,fleas6 oh1 no6 sir6 we have none here1--you must have brought them with you from the ,palace4 ,satisfied1 however1 with having maintained her dignity of landlady1 she took care to have the nuisance removed4 ,this ama1 as may be already judged1 was a curiosity4 ,in the first place1 she was a dwarf4 ,the ,spaniards are not1 generally speaking1 a more diminutive race than the other inhabitants of ,southern ,europe3 but when a ,spaniard1 especially a woman1 takes it into her head to be small1 they go beyond other nations4 ,nowhere are seen such prodigies of exiguity4 ,the lady was1 moreover1 deformed1 one of her legs describing a triangle1 which compelled her in walking to imitate the sidelong progress of a crab4 ,possessed of these peculiarities she had attained1 as spinster1 that very uncertain age called by some certain1 but agreed by all to be nearer the end than the commencement of life4 ,although not an exception1 with regard to temper1 to the generality of those whose fate it is to endure such a complication of ills1 she nevertheless on frequent occasions gave way to much amiability1 and especially to much volubility of discourse4 ,she was not without a tinge of sentimentality2 and when seated1 fan in hand1 and the mantilla puesta1 on one of the chairs shorn of almost their entire legs1 which were to be found in all parts of the house1--she made by no means a bad half-length representation of a fine lady4 ,she had apparently experienced some of the sorrows and disappointments incident to humanity2 and on such occasions had frequently1 no doubt1 formed the resolution of increasing1 although in a trifling degree1 some religious sisterhood1 of which establishments she had so plentiful a choice in her native city2 but1 whether on a nearer approach1 she had considered the veil an unbecoming costume1 or her resolution had failed her on the brink of the living tomb1 the project had not as yet taken effect4 ,the turn1 however1 thus given to her reflections and inquiries1 had perfected in her a branch of knowledge highly useful to strangers who might be thrown in her way4 ,she was a limping encyclopedia of the convents and monasteries of ,toledo2 and could announce each morning1 with the precision of an almanack1 the name of the saint of the day1--in what church or convent he was especially fted1 and at what hour the ceremony would take place4 ,she was likewise au fait of the foundation1 ancient and modern annals1 and peculiarities of every sort which belong to every religious establishment of the many scores existing in ,toledo4 ,her administration of the household affairs was admirably organized owing to her energetic activity4 ,her love of cleanliness would frequently induce her to take the sweeping department into her own hands--a circumstance which was sure to render the operation doubly successful1 for the brooms1 which in ,toledo are not provided with handles or broomsticks1 were exactly of a length suited to her stature4 ,before we take leave of her1 here is one more of her original replies4 ,i complained to her at breakfast that the eggs were not as fresh as usual2 and1 suiting the action to the word1 approached the egg-cup containing the opened one so near to her1 that the organs of sight and smell could not but testify to the justice of my reclamation4 ,shrugging her shoulders1 until they almost reached the level of the table--and with much contempt depicted on her countenance3 ,how could it be otherwise8 she exclaimed1 the egg was taken a quarter of an hour ago from under the hen2 but you have broken it at the wrong end4 ,the monastery called ,san ,juan de los ,reyes1 was founded by ,ferdinand and ,isabella1 on their return from the conquest of ,granada1 and given to a fraternity of ,franciscan friars4 ,an inscription to this effect in gothic characters runs round the cloister walls1 where it forms a sort of frieze1 in a line with the capitals of the semi-columns4 ,the inhabited part of the establishment is in a state of complete ruin1 having been destroyed by the ,french during the ,peninsular ,war4 ,the cloisters are1 likewise1 in a semi-ruinous state3 the part best preserved being the church2 although that was not entirely spared1 as may be supposed from its having been used as cavalry stables4 ,the choice of a situation for the erection of this convent was perfect in the then flourishing state of ,toledo2 and1 even now1 its picturesque position lends a charm to the melancholy and deserted remains still visible of its grandeur and beauty4 ,it stands on the brow of the cliff1 commanding the termination of the chasm already described as commencing at the bridge of ,alcantara4 ,it commands1 therefore1 the ruins of ,roderick's palace1 placed a few hundred yards further on1 and on a lower level2 still lower the picturesque bridge of ,st4 ,martin1 striding to the opposite cliff1 over arches of ninety feet elevation1 and the lovely vega which stretches to the west4 ,illustration3 ,,church ,,of ,,san ,,juan ,,de ,,los ,,reyes4 ,this monastery was one of the most favoured amongst the numerous royal endowments of that period4 ,it is said that its foundation was the result of a vow pronounced by ,ferdinand and the ,queen before the taking of ,granada4 ,in addition to the scale of magnificence adopted throughout the entire plan1 the royal founders1 on its completion1 bestowed a highly venerated donation--the collection of chains taken from the limbs of the ,christian captives1 rescued by them from the dungeons of the ,alhambra4 ,they are suspended on the outside walls of the two sides of the north-eastern angle of the church1 and are made to form a frieze1 being placed in couples crossing each other at an acute angle2 while those that remained are suspended vertically in rows by fours or fives1 in the intervals of the pilastres4 ,the interior of the church is still sufficiently entire to give some idea of its original splendour4 ,its dimensions are rather more than two hundred feet in length1 by eighty in width1 and as many in height--excepting over the intersection of the nave and transept1 where the ceiling rises to a hundred and eight feet4 ,these dimensions are exclusive of three recesses on either side1 forming chapels open to the nave1 there being no lateral naves or aisles4 ,the style of the whole is very ornamental2 but the east end is adorned with an unusual profusion of sculpture4 ,the transept is separated from the eastern extremity of the building1 by a space no greater than would suffice for one of the arches2 and its ends form the lines1 which being prolonged1 constitute the backs of the chapels4 ,the royal arms1 supported by spread eagles1 are repeated five times on each end-wall2 separated respectively by statues of saints in their niches1 and surmounted by a profusion of rich tracery4 ,these subjects entirely cover the walls to a height of about forty feet1 at which elevation another inscription in honour of the founders runs round the whole interior4 ,the transepts not being formed by open arches1 the sides afford space for a repetition of the same ornament1 until at their junction with the nave they are terminated by two half-piers covered with tracery1 and surmounted by semi-octagonal balconies1 beneath which the initials of ,ferdinand and ,isabella1 made to assume a fancy shape1 and surmounted by coronets1 are introduced with singularly graceful effect4 ,but the chief attraction of this ruin is the cloister4 ,a small quadrangle is surrounded by an ogival or pointed arcade1 enriched with all the ornament that style is capable of receiving4 ,it encloses a garden1 which1 seen through the airy-web of the surrounding tracery1 must have produced in this sunny region a charming effect4 ,at present1 one side being in ruins and unroofed1 its communication with the other three has been interrupted2 and1 whether or not in the idea of preserving the other sides from the infection1 their arches have been closed nearly to the top by thin plaister walls4 ,whatever may have been the motive of this arrangement1 it answers the useful purpose of concealing from the view a gallery which surmounts the cloister1 the arches of which would neutralize the souvenirs created by the rest of the scene1 since they announce a far different epoch of art1 by the grievous backsliding of taste evinced in their angular form and uncouth proportions4 ,illustration3 ,,cloister ,,of ,,san ,,juan ,,de ,,los ,,reyes1 ,,toledo4 ,until the destruction of the monastery by the ,french1 the number of monks was very considerable2 and in consequence of the unusual privileges accorded to their body1 had become the objects of especial veneration4 ,a curious proof of this still exists in the form of a printed paper1 pasted on one of the doors in the interior of the church1 and no doubt preserved carefully by the fifteen or sixteen brothers1 who continued after the dispersion of the rest to inhabit the few apartments1 which1 by their situation over the cloister1 had escaped the flames2 and who were only finally compelled to evacuate their retreat on the occasion of the general convent crusade of the late revolution4 ,it is an announcement of indulgences1 of which the following is the opening paragraph3-- ,indulgence and days of pardon to be gained by kissing the robe of the brothers of ,san ,francisco4 ,all the faithful gain1 for each time that they kiss the aforesaid holy robe with devotion of heart1 two thousand and seventy-five days of ,indulgence4 ,further than this1 whosoever of the faithful shall kiss the aforesaid holy robe devoutly1 gains each time eight thousand one hundred days of pardon4 ,the which urges to the exercise of this devotion the ,princes1 ,kings1 ,emperors1 ,bishops1 and highest dignitaries of the ,church1 and the monks of other religious orders2 and even those of the same order gain the same1 according to the doctrine of ,lantusca1 who writes1 ',videant religiosi quantum thesaurum portent secum4' ,since those who with hearts filled with lowliness and love1 bend the knees to kiss the precious garment1 which opens to so many souls the entrance to ,heaven1 leading them aside from the paths of perdition1 with trembling and terror of the entire hosts of hell1 are doubtless those who gain the above-mentioned ,indulgences1 c4 ,cardinal ,ximenes had assumed the habit of this monastery before his nomination to the see of ,toledo4 ,among the numerous relics of the ancient prosperity of this ruinous corner of ,toledo1 are seen the walls of the palace of ,don ,juan ,hurtado de ,mendoza4 ,to them were confided the secret murmurings of ,charles the ,fifth's vexation1 when1 elated with his ,italian successes--lord of the greatest empire of ,christendom1 and flattered by the magnificent hospitality of the ,genoese1 he only resorted hither to be bearded by his ,spanish vassals1 and to hear his request for supplies unceremoniously refused4 ,although monarch of nearly half ,europe1 and1 better still1 of ,mexico and ,peru1 that sovereign appears to have undergone the torments of a constantly defective exchequer4 ,his armies were not numerous for such an empire1 and yet they were frequently in revolt for arrears of pay4 ,could at that time the inventor of a constitution on the modern principle have presented himself to ,charles1 with what treasures would he not have rewarded him8 ,on his arrival in ,spain1 in the autumn of #aech1 the emperor convoked the cortez in ,toledo1 for the purpose of deliberation on the most grave and urgent causes1 which obliged him to request of his faithful vassals an inconsiderable contribution1 and of receiving the assurance of the desire with which he was animated1 of diminishing their burdens as soon as circumstances should enable him to do so4 ,all assembled on the appointed day--the prelates1 the grandees1 the knights1 the deputies of cities and towns4 ,the opening session took place in the great salon of the house of ,don ,juan ,hurtado de ,mendoza1 ,count of ,melita1 in which the emperor had taken up his abode2 and two apartments in the convent of ,san ,juan de los ,reyes1 were prepared for the remaining meetings--one for the ecclesiastical body1 presided by the ,cardinal de ,tavera1 archbishop of ,toledo1 accompanied by ,fray ,garcia de ,loaysa1 cardinal1 and confessor of the emperor1 afterwards ,archbishop of ,seville--the other for the lay members of the cortez4 ,although an adept at dissimulation1 what must have been the impatience of ,charles1 while under the necessity of listening1 day after day1 to reports of speeches pronounced by the independent members of his junta on the subject of his unwelcome proposition1 without the consolation of foreseeing that the supplies would eventually be forthcoming4 ,the orators did not spare him4 ,the historian1 ,mariana1 gives at full length the speech of the condestable ,don ,velasco1 ,duke of ,frias1 a grandee enjoying one of the highest dignities at the court1 who commences by declaring that1 with respect to the ,sisa1 7tax on provisions1 forming the principal subject of the emperor's demand17 each of their lordships1 being such persons as they were1 would understand better than himself this business3 but what he understood respecting it was1 that nothing could be more contrary to ,god's service1 and that of his ,majesty1 and to the good of these kingdoms of ,castile1 of which they were natives1 and to their honour1 than the ,sisa2 and1 further on1 proposes that a request be made to his ,majesty1 that he would moderate his expenditure1 which was greater than that of the ,catholic kings4 ,on an address to this effect being presented to the emperor1 he replied1 that he thanked them for their kind intentions2 but that his request was for present aid1 and not for advice respecting the future3 and finding1 at length1 that no ,sisa was to be obtained1 he ordered the archbishop to dissolve the junta1 which he did in the following words3--,gentlemen1--his ,majesty says1 that he convoked your lordships' assembly for the purpose of communicating to you his necessities1 and those of these kingdoms1 since it appeared to him that1 as they were general1 such also should be the remedy2 but seeing all that has been done1 it appears to him that there is no need of detaining your lordships1 but that each of you may go to his house1 or whither he may think proper4 ,it must be confessed that the grandees1 who had on this occasion complained of ,charles's foreign expeditions1 and neglect of his ,spanish dominions1 did not pursue the system best calculated to reconcile him to a residence among them4 ,instead of taking advantage of the opportunities afforded by social intercourse1 for making amends for the repulse he had suffered from the cortez1 they appeared desirous of rendering the amount of humiliation which awaited him in ,spain a counterpoise to his triumphs in his other dominions4 ,on the close of the above-mentioned session1 a tournament was celebrated in the vega of ,toledo4 ,on arriving at the lists1 an alguacil of the court1 whose duty it was to clear the way on the emperor's approach--seeing the ,duke de l',infantado in the way1 requested him to move on1 and on his refusal struck his horse with his staff4 ,the duke drew his sword and cut open the officer's head4 ,in the midst of the disturbance occasioned by the incident1 the alcalde ,ronquillo came up1 and attempted to arrest the duke in the emperor's name--when the constable1 ,duke de ,frias1 who had just ridden to the scene of bustle1 reining in his horse1 exclaimed1 ,i1 in virtue of my office1 am chief minister of justice in these kingdoms1 and the duke is1 therefore1 my prisoner2 and addressing himself to the alcalde3 know better another time1 on what persons you may presume to exercise your authority4 ,the duke left the ground in company of the last speaker1 and was followed by all the nobles present1 leaving the emperor entirely unaccompanied4 ,it appears that no notice was taken by ,charles of this insult2 his manner towards the ,duke of ,infantado on the following day being marked by peculiar condescension1 and all compensation to the wounded alguacil left to the duke's generosity4 ,the personal qualities of this prince1 as a monarch1 appear to have been overrated in some degree in his own day2 but far more so by subsequent writers4 ,the brilliancy of his reign1 and the homage which surrounded his person were due to the immense extent of his dominions2 and would never have belonged to him1 any more than the states of which he was in possession1 had their attainment depended in any degree on the exercise of his individual energies4 ,when in the prime of youth1 possessed of repeated opportunities of distinguishing himself at the head of his armies1 he kept aloof1 leaving the entire conduct of the war to his generals4 ,his rival1 ,francis the ,first1 wounded at ,pavia in endeavouring to rally his flying troops1 and at length taken prisoner while half crushed beneath his dead horse1 was greater--as he stood before the hostile general1 his tall figure covered with earth and blood--than the absent emperor1 who was waiting at ,valladolid for the news of the war4 ,nor were the qualities of the statesman more conspicuous than those of the warrior on this occasion4 ,having received the intelligence of his victory1 and of the capture of his illustrious prisoner1 he took no measures--gave no orders4 ,to his general every thing was left2 and when the captive ,king was1 at his own request1 conveyed some time after to ,spain1 the astonished emperor had received no previous notice of his coming4 ,he allowed himself to be out-manoeuvred in the treaty for the liberation of his prisoner2 and when ,francis broke the pledge he had given for the restitution of ,burgundy1 he took no steps to enforce the execution of the stipulations2 and he ultimately gave up the two ,french princes1 who remained in his power as hostages1 in return for a sum of money4 ,far from maintaining the superiority in ,european councils due to his extensive dominions1 the ,italian republics were only prevented with the greatest difficulty1 and by the continual presence of armies1 from repeatedly declaring for ,france3 and even the popes1 to whom he paid continual court1 manifested the small estimation in which they held his influence by constantly deserting his cause in favour of ,francis1--the cause of the champion of ,christianity in favour of the ally of the ,infidel1 and that frequently in defiance of good faith2 shewing how little they feared the consequences of the imperial displeasure4 ,if these facts fail in affording testimony to his energy and capacity1 still less does his character shine in consistency4 ,he professed an unceasing ardour in the cause of ,christianity2 offering to the ,french king the renunciation of his rights1 and a release from that monarch's obligations to him1 on condition of his joining him in an expedition against the ,infidels2 but when he found himself at the head of an immense army under the walls of ,vienna1 he sat still and allowed ,solyman to carry off at his leisure the spoils of the principal towns of ,hungary4 ,when at length he made up his mind to take the field1 he selected1 as most worthy of the exercise of his prowess1 the triumph over the pirate ,barbarossa and his ,african hordes3 the most important result of the campaign being the occupation of ,tunis1 7where in his zealous burnings for ,christianity he installed a ,mahometan sovereign17 and the wanton destruction by his soldiers of a splendid library of valuable manuscripts4 ,we have seen how little his ,spanish subjects allowed themselves to be dazzled by the splendours of his vast authority1 and history informs us how far he was from conceiving the resolution of reducing them to obedience by any measures savouring of energetic demonstration4 ,the irreverence to his person he calmly pocketed1 and the deficiences in his exchequer were supplied by means of redoubled pressure on his less refractory ,flemings4 ,he submitted to the breach of faith of ,francis of ,france1 and to the disrespect of his ,castilian vassals2 but1 on the burghers of the city of ,ghent being heard to give utterance to expressions of discontent at the immoderate liberties taken with their purse-strings1 he quits ,madrid in a towering rage1 crosses ,france at the risk of his liberty1 and enters his helpless burg at the head of a ,german army1 darting on all sides frowns of imperial wrath1 each prophetic of a bloody execution4 ,aware of the preparations of ,francis for attacking his dominions simultaneously in three different directions1 he took insufficient or rather no measures to oppose him1 but turning his back1 embarked for ,algiers1 where he believed laurels to be as cheap as at ,tunis4 ,there1 however1 he lost one half of his armament1 destroyed by the elements2 and the remainder narrowly escaping a similar fate1 and being dispersed in all directions1 he returned in time to witness the unopposed execution of the plans of his ,french enemy4 ,what measures are his on such an emergency8 ,does he call together the contingents of the ,german ,states8 ,unite the different corps serving in ,lombardy and ,savoy1--dispatch an order to the viceroy of ,naples to march for the north of ,italy2 and having completed his combinations1 cross the ,pyrenees at the head of a ,spanish army1 and give the law to his far weaker antagonist8 ,no6 nothing that could lead to an encounter with the ,french king accorded with his policy1 as it has been called1 but more probably with his disposition4 ,he quits ,spain1 it is true1 and using all diligence1 travels round ,france1 but not too near it1 and arrives in ,flanders4 ,here he puts himself at the head of his ,germans1 and marches--against the ,duke of ,cleves6 who had formed an alliance with his principal enemy4 ,seeing the emperor thus engaged1 ,francis completes a successful campaign1 taking possession of ,luxembourg and other towns4 ,at length the sovereign of half ,europe1 having received news of the landing of an ,english army in ,picardy1 resolves to venture a demonstration against ,france4 ,he therefore traverses ,lorraine at the head of eighty thousand troops1 and makes himself master of ,luneville3 after which1 hearing that ,francis had despatched his best troops to oppose ,henry the ,eighth1 and was waiting for himself1 as the less dangerous foe1 with an army of half the strength of his own1 and composed of recruits1 he makes up his mind to advance in the direction of ,paris4 ,after a fortnight's march he finds himself in presence of the ,french king1 to whom he sends proposals of peace6 ,these being rejected1 he continues his march2 when a messenger from ,francis announces his consent to treat4 ,under these circumstances1 does he require the cession of ,burgundy1 according to the terms of the unexecuted treaty of ,madrid8 ,does he even stipulate for any advantage1 for any equality8 ,no6 he agrees1 on the contrary1 to cede ,flanders to the ,french1 under colour of a dowry with his daughter the ,infanta ,maria1 who was to be married to the ,duke of ,orleans2 or else ,milan1 with his niece the daughter of the ,king of the ,romans2 and he beats a retreat with his immense army1 as if taking the benefit of a capitulation4 ,there is something in the result of this ,french campaign which appears to explain much of ,charles's previous conduct2 and shows that in many instances he was actuated by personal fear of his gallant rival4 ,on this occasion he did not hesitate to desert the ,king of ,england1 who had no doubt calculated on his coperation1 as much as ,charles had depended on the diversion created by the ,british army4 ,the more one reflects on the passages of this emperor's history1 the less one is surprised at his resolution to abdicate4 ,he gave in this a proof of his appreciation of his real character1 which undoubtedly fitted him rather for a life of ease and retirement1 than for the arduous duties of supreme power4 ,,letter ,,xii4 ,,arab ,,monuments4 ,,pictures4 ,,the ,,princess ,,galiana4 ,,environs4 ,toledo4 ,returning along the edge of the cliff1 a very short space separates the extreme walls of the ruined monastery of ,ferdinand and ,isabella1 from an edifice of much greater antiquity1 although not yet a ruin4 ,its exterior as you approach1 is more than simple4 ,it is not even a neatly constructed building2 but such a pile of rough looking mud and stone1 as1 on the continent1 announces sometimes a barn1 or granary of a farming establishment mal mont4 ,a high central portion runs from end to end1 from either side of which1 at about four-fifths of its height1 project lower roofs of brownish-red tiles4 ,the old square rotten door is in exact keeping with all this exterior1 and contributes its share to the surprise experienced on entering1 when you discover1 on a level with the eye1 distributed over a spacious quadrangular area1 a forest of elaborately carved capitals1 surmounting octagon-shaped pillars1 and supporting innumerable horse-shoe arches1 scattered in apparent confusion4 ,all these as you advance down a flight of steps1 fall into rank1 and you speedily find yourself in the centre of an oriental temple in all its symmetry4 ,illustration3 ,,interior ,,of ,,santa ,,maria ,,la ,,blanca1 ,,toledo4 ,the principal light entering from the western extremity1 you do not at first perceive that three of the five naves terminate at the opposite end1 by half domes of more modern invention4 ,these have since been almost built out1 and do not form a part of the general view1--not in consequence of a decree of a committee of fine arts1 but for the convenience of the intendant of the province1 who selected the edifice1 as long as it remained sufficiently weather-proof for such a purpose1 for a magazine of government stores4 ,there is no record of the antiquity of this church1 supposed to be the most ancient in ,toledo3 at all events1 it is the most ancient of those constructed by the ,arabs4 ,it was originally a synagogue1 and received the above mentioned half cupolas on its conversion to a ,catholic church2 since which period it has been known by its present title of ,santa ,maria la ,blanca4 ,a few hundred yards further on1 following the same direction1 is the church called the ,transito1 also in the oriental style1 but on a different plan3 a large quadrangular room1 from about ninety to a hundred feet in length1 by forty in width1 and about seventy high1 without arches or columns1 ornamented with ,arab tracery in stucco1 on the upper part of the walls1 and by a handsome cedar roof4 ,a cement of a different colour from the rest runs round the lowest portion of the walls1 up to about breast high2 no doubt filling the space formerly occupied by the azulejos4 ,some remains of these still decorate the seats1 which are attached to the walls at the two sides of the altar4 ,the building is in excellent preservation1 and until lately was used as a church of the ,mozarabic sect4 ,the ornaments are remarkable for the exquisite beauty of their design1 and are uninjured1 excepting by the eternal whitewash1 the monomania of modern ,spanish decorators4 ,the ,jews were the primitive occupants of this elegant temple also4 ,samuel ,levi1 treasurer and favourite of ,pedro the ,cruel 7who subsequently transferred his affection from the person of his faithful servant to the enormous wealth1 amassed under so indulgent a prince1 and seized a pretext for ordering his execution7 was the founder of this synagogue4 ,the inauguration was accompanied by extraordinary pomp4 ,the treasurer being1 from his paramount position at the court of ,castile1 the most influential personage of his tribe1 the leading members of ,judaism flocked from all parts of ,europe to ,toledo to be present on the occasion1 and a deputation from ,jerusalem brought earth of the ,holy ,land1 which was laid down throughout the whole interior before the placing of the pavement4 ,a very different origin1 more suited to believers in miracles1 is attributed to this church by the present titular sacristan4 ,this ,quasimodo of the fabric1 a simple and worthy functionary1 enjoys a sinecure1 except1 it is to be feared1 with regard to salary4 ,although1 however1 no duties confine him to his post1 his attachment to the edifice prevents his ever being found further from it than the porch2 under the cool shelter of which1 as he leans against the wall1 he fabricates and consumes the friendly cigarito4 ,when questioned with an appearance of interest on the subject of the building1 he replies with unrestrained delight4 ,its foundation he attributes to ,noah1 fixing the date at seventeen hundred years back2 but without adding any particulars relative to this miraculous visit paid to ,toledo1 by the ghost of the patriarch4 ,as is the case with all other ecclesiastical edifices closed pursuant to the recent decrees1 this building may become the property of any one1 who would offer a sufficient price1 not according to the real value1 but to that to which such objects are reduced by the great number in the market4 ,several other churches are simply closed and left unguarded2 but the antiquarian sacristan above mentioned1 is placed here on account of the existence of a room in which are contained the archives of the knights of ,calatrava and ,alcantara1 until recently its proprietors4 ,no reparations1 however1 are ordered2 and there is many an enthusiast in archological research who1 should such an edifice fall under his notice1 would1 no doubt1 rescue it from its now imminent fate4 ,it is not only a monument admirable for the details of the ornaments1 the best of its sort to be met with north of ,andalucia1 but it forms a valuable link in the chain of architectural history4 ,it is the first ecclesiastical edifice of its style recorded as having set the example of an open area1 destitute of columns and arcades4 ,at the distance of a few hundred yards from this building1 a portion of the precipice is pointed out1 to which was given in former times the name of the ,tarpeian rock4 ,it was the spot selected by the ,jewish authorities1 7who enjoyed in ,toledo1 under the ,kings of ,castile1 the right of separate jurisdiction in their tribe17 for the execution of their criminals4 ,it is a perpendicular rock1 but with an intermediate sloping space between its base and the ,tagus4 ,one of the most curious of the ,arab monuments of ,toledo1 is the church called the ,christo de la ,luz1 formerly a mosque4 ,it is extremely small2 a square of about twenty feet2 and is divided by four pillars into three naves1 connected with each other1 and with the surrounding walls1 by twelve arches4 ,this disposition produces in the ceiling nine square compartments1 which rise each to a considerable height1 enclosed by walls from the tops of the arches upwards4 ,each small square ceiling is coved and ornamented with high angular ribs1 rising from the cornice and intersecting each other1 so as to form a different combination in each of the nine4 ,illustration3 ,,interior ,,of ,,christo ,,de ,,la ,,luz4 ,,toledo4 ,the principal remaining ,arab buildings are1 the beautiful gate called ,puerta del ,sol2 part of the town walls with their towers2 the parochial church of ,san ,roman2 the tower of the church of ,st4 ,thomas2 and two or three other similar towers4 ,several private houses contain single rooms of the same architecture1 more or less ornamental4 ,the most considerable of these is situated opposite the church of ,san ,roman1 and belongs to a family residing at ,talavera4 ,they have quitted the house in ,toledo1 which is in a ruinous state4 ,the ,moorish saloon is a fine room of about sixty feet in length by upwards of forty high1 and beautifully ornamented4 ,the ,artesonado roof of cedar lets in already1 in more than one part1 light and water2 and half the remainder of the house has fallen4 ,the good pictures in ,toledo are not very plentiful4 ,it is said some of the convents possessed good collections1 which were seized1 together with all their other property4 ,many of these are to be seen in the gallery called the ,museo ,nacional1 at ,madrid4 ,others have been sold4 ,those of the cathedral have not been removed2 but they are not numerous3 among them is a ,st4 ,francisco1 by ,zurbaran2 and a still more beautiful work of ,alonzo del ,arco1 a ,st4 ,joseph bearing the ,infant4 ,it is in a marble frame fixed in the wall1 and too high to be properly viewed3 but the superiority of the colouring can be appreciated1 and the excellence of the head of the saint4 ,in the smaller sacristy are two pictures in ,bassano's style1 and some copies from ,raphael1 ,rubens1 and others4 ,at the head of the great sacristy1 there is a large work of ,domenico ,theotocopuli1 commonly called ,el ,greco1 7the head of the school of ,toledo7 which ,i prefer much to the famous ,funeral of the ,count ,orgaz1 in the church of ,santo ,tonie1 which1 according to some1 passes for his masterpiece4 ,in the first are traits of drawing1 which forcibly call to mind the style of the best masters of the ,roman school1 and prove the obligation he was under to the instructions of his master ,michel ,angelo4 ,the subject is the ,calvary4 ,the soldiery fill the back ground4 ,on the right hand the foreground is occupied by an executioner preparing the cross1 and on the left1 by the group of females4 ,the erect figure of the ,christ is the principal object1 and occupies the centre1 somewhat removed from the front4 ,this is certainly a fine picture2 the composition is good1 and the drawing admirable1 but the colouring of the ,greco is always unpleasing4 ,in the ,funeral of ,count ,orgaz it is insufferably false2 nor1 in fact1 is it easy to conjecture to what sort of merit this picture owes its celebrity4 ,it possesses neither that of conception1 nor that of composition1 nor of expression3 least of all that of colouring4 ,all that can be said in its favour is1 that the row of heads extending from one end of the canvass to the other1 across the centre1 are correct portraits of personages of note1 who figured in the history of the epoch4 ,the worst part of all is1 the ,heaven of the upper plan of the picture1 into which the soul of the ,count has the bad taste to apply for admission4 ,this was1 in fact1 one of the works which gave occasion to the saying of a critic of a contemporary school1 who declared that the ,glorias 7heavenly visions7 of the ,greco looked like ,infernos1 and his ,infernos like ,glorias4 ,in the ,transito there is an ,adoration1 a charming picture1 apparently by ,rembrandt4 ,there are here and there good pictures among the other churches1 but none very remarkable4 ,in general1 the most attractive objects are the old picture-frames1 and other gilded ornaments and wood carvings4 ,all these1 in the taste of the commencement of the last century and earlier1 which is at present so much in request1 are in such profusion1 as would draw tears of admiration from the eyes of a ,parisian upholsterer1 and showers of bank notes from the purses of furniture collectors4 ,you will not1 ,i am sure1 by this time1 object to our quitting ,toledo1 and making a short excursion in its environs4 ,i shall therefore request you to accompany me to the ruins of a ,moorish palace1 on the banks of the ,tagus1 a mile distant from the town1 called the ,palacio de ,galiana4 ,the ,princess ,galiana was the daughter of ,galafre1 one of the earlier ,arab ,kings of ,toledo4 ,the widely extended fame of her beauty1 is said to have fired the imagination of ,charles1 son of ,pepin1 ,king of ,france1 who resolved to throw himself at her feet as a suitor1 and forthwith repaired to ,toledo4 ,however glowing the terms in which report had represented her charms1 he found them surpassed by the reality2 but a prince of a neighbouring state had forestalled him in his suit4 ,this obstacle did not1 however1 deter him from persisting in his resolution4 ,he forthwith challenged his rival to mortal combat2 and1 clearing his road to the hand of the princess with the point of his lance1 married her1 and carried her back with him to ,paris4 ,the attachment of her father to this princess is said to have been such from her earliest childhood1 that he gave himself up entirely to this affection--devoting all his wealth to the gratification of her caprices4 ,the ,arab palace1 now no longer in existence1 took its name from hers1 in consequence of a new one having been erected for her by her father1 adjoining his own1 at a period at which she had scarcely grown out of childhood4 ,the two residences being occupied by succeeding princes as one1 received the appellation of los ,palacios1 7the ,palaces7 of ,galiana4 ,in addition to her town residence1 she soon after had the other palace constructed about a mile from ,toledo4 ,to arrive at the ruins1 we pass the bridge of ,alcantara1 and follow the rose-tree promenade4 ,from this a path on the left-hand leads to the spot across a field in garden-like cultivation4 ,the selection made by the ,arab princess of this situation1 proves her to have possessed1 in addition to her beauty1 a consummate taste and intelligence of rural life4 ,the ,tagus--a name1 by the way1 more deserving of poetic fame than many a more widely echoed stream--in this spot1 as if conscious of the pains he must shortly undergo1 while dashing through the deep and narrow chasm through which he must force a passage around ,toledo1 seems to linger1 desirous of putting off the fated storm4 ,his course becomes more circuitous as he approaches2 and indulging in a hundred irregularities of form1 he plays round several small thickly wooded islands1 penetrating with innumerable eddies and back currents1 into flowery nooks and recesses2 while here and there he spreads out in a wide sheet his apparently motionless waters1 as if seeking to sleep away the remainder of his days on these green and luxurious banks4 ,in the midst of this delicious region1 which recalls to the recollection some of the more favoured spots in ,england1 but which1 with the addition of the ,spanish climate in early summer1 is superior to them all1 was placed the palace4 ,the valley for a considerable distance still bears the name of the ,garden of the ,king1--,huerta del ,rey4 ,the site of part of the pleasure grounds immediately adjoining the river1 is left wild1 and covered with woods2 and the remainder is converted into a farm in the highest state of cultivation4 ,the ruin consists of three sides of a not very large quadrangle2 the massive walls of which are pierced with two stories of arched windows4 ,the remainder of the edifice was doubtless less solid1 and has entirely disappeared4 ,many a tale of romance would be gathered--many a stirring scene recorded1 could so precious a document be brought to light as a chronicle drawn up by some ,st4 ,simon of the ,court of ,toledo1 who had recorded the daily events of which this retreat was the theatre1 during the time it served as a residence for several successive sovereigns4 ,but in this land words have always been fewer than deeds1 and records are the rarest sort of subsisting monuments4 ,one anecdote1 however1 is transmitted1 of which this spot was the scene1 in the time of the last but one of the ,moorish princes who reigned at ,toledo1 before its surrender to ,alonzo the ,sixth4 ,alonzo was himself one of the actors on the occasion4 ,in early life he had been deprived by his brother ,sancho1 ,king of ,castile1 of the portion of the kingdoms which fell to his share by the will of his father1 ,ferdinand the ,first4 ,on his expulsion from his inheritance he took refuge at the court of the ,arab king of ,toledo1 by whom he was received with every mark of favour which could have been lavished on a friend4 ,the ,moor 7for the family then reigning was not ,arab1 although the two races are constantly confounded in ,spanish histories7 gave him a palace1 and settled on him splendid revenues1 to be continued during the time he should think fit to accept his hospitality4 ,he even sent invitations to all the friends and followers of his guest1 in order that he might be surrounded with his own court4 ,alonzo1 touched by this delicate hospitality1 attached himself warmly to his host2 his friendship for whom 7,i believe a solitary instance in those times among the sovereigns in ,spain7 lasted until the death of the latter4 ,the youthful exile1 thus handsomely treated1 passed much of his time in the society of his royal protector4 ,on one occasion1 the court being at the country palace of ,galiana1 the king and his attendants were reclining in the cool shade of the garden1 and ,alonzo at a short distance1 apparently asleep4 ,the king1 pointing to the town1 which towered on its precipice immediately in front of the party1 was expatiating on the strength of its position4 ,all agreed that it was impregnable2 until a brother of the monarch observed1 that there was one mode of warfare against which it would not hold out3 and he proceeded to explain his plan1 which consisted of an annual devastation of the valley of the ,tagus at the time of harvest1 to be executed by an invading army1 which might be disbanded during the winter months4 ,this system1 he maintained1 would inevitably reduce the city by famine to the necessity of a surrender4 ,no sooner was the last phrase uttered1 than all present in an instant struck by the same thought1 turned towards the sleeper2 and the greater number1 filled with suspicion respecting the reality of his slumbers1 addressed significant looks to the king1 the intention of which could not be mistaken1 and which boded no good to ,alonzo4 ,whatever might have been the feelings of the ,moor at this moment1 he took no further notice of the incident1 and allowed his guest to terminate his nap when he thought proper4 ,when the death of ,sancho took place before ,zamora1 ,alonzo was still at ,toledo4 ,the intelligence being conveyed to him by a confidential messenger from his sister1 he lost no time in taking leave of his host1 who wished him success with every demonstration of friendship1 and repairing to ,burgos4 ,there1 after some hesitation1 the nobles consented to his investiture with the sovereignty4 ,during his brilliant reign he resisted several tempting opportunities of breaking with his ,moorish ally and former host1 and thus adding to his dominions1--and preserved his friendship and loyalty unstained4 ,after the death of the ,moorish king1 he1 however1 speedily fell out with his successor4 ,war was declared on both sides1 and it was resolved to attack ,toledo4 ,the well known result was1 the taking of the town after seven years1 the time mentioned in the garden of ,galiana1 and by means of the annually repeated devastation of the ,vega1 according to the plan imagined and described in the above mentioned conversation4 ,returning by the ,rose-tree ,walk1 immediately on approaching the bridge1 an advanced portion of the cliff which bounds the road on the left detaches itself from the rest towards the summit1 which rises in a circular form4 ,on it stands the ,castle of ,san ,servando1 one of the most picturesque of the ,arab remains existing in this part of ,spain4 ,the origin of this fort is uncertain4 ,some attribute it to the ,romans1 and consider the ,moorish windows and ornaments to be subsequent additions1 from their being constructed with bricks instead of the same stone as the rest of the walls4 ,but this is not a sufficient reason1 since the same peculiarity exists in all the ,arab edifices in ,toledo4 ,in fact1 the reason is evident4 ,the hard black sort of stone used for the walls1 would almost have defied the chisel which should have attempted to fashion its surface into the delicate forms required by the ,arab mode of decorating4 ,this argument1 therefore1 being set aside--remains the masonry1 which is more likely from its appearance to be ,gothic or ,arab1 than ,roman4 ,it is probably entirely ,arab4 ,it encloses a quadrangular space of about a quarter of an acre1 and is a ruin2 but the walls and towers are almost entire4 ,there are three small towers1 that is of small diameter1 but lofty2 and two larger1 one of which is circular3 the other is a parallelogram terminating by a semicircle at one of its extremities4 ,this tower has lost apparently about a third of its elevation4 ,their walls are so perfectly constructed as to appear externally like solid rocks smoothed and rounded4 ,each larger tower contains two rectangular brick projections1 in which are small elegantly-arched openings for windows4 ,the edifice was thoroughly repaired by ,don ,pedro ,tenorio1 archbishop of ,toledo2 the same who built the bridge of ,san ,martin4 ,it has since played its part in numberless wars1 and was at length reduced to a ruin during the insurrection headed by ,juan de ,padilla1 at the commencement of ,charles the ,fifth's reign4 ,during the ,peninsular war of the present century1 the old battlements echoed once more with the sounds of warfare4 ,it was occupied by a body of ,french1 who repaired a portion of the masonry at the summits of the towers1 and erected a low wall along the whole length of the ,toledo side4 ,they were able1 from their position1 to batter the ,alcazar1 which is immediately opposite1 but on a higher level2 and to command the bridge of ,alcantara1 and road to ,aranjuez4 ,in the other valley which extends to the west of ,toledo exist the remains of a circus for chariot races1 generally supposed1 at first sight1 to be ,roman4 ,they present1 in fact1 every characteristic of a ,roman work4 ,the rough interior masonry is all that remains2 and that only rising to a height of from three to four feet from the ground1 with the exception of a single arch4 ,the earth mingled with ruins1 has apparently filled up much of the interior1 and surrounding the exterior simultaneously1 has only left visible the upper portion of the edifice4 ,the end which is in the best preservation is of a semicircular form4 ,from it the sides run in parallel directions1 and lose themselves in the ruins of a more recently erected convent4 ,they are traceable to a length of more than four hundred yards4 ,the width is two hundred and ninety feet within the building1 at the present elevation of the ground1 and three hundred and twenty feet on the outside1 which appears to have consisted of a series of arches4 ,there are also remains of an amphitheatre adjoining the semicircular end of the stadium4 ,there being no indication of the ,romans having at any period planted any considerable establishment at ,toledo1 in fact no author but ,livy having noticed the place1 and he but slightly2 the antiquaries have sought for the origin of these monuments among ,gothic traditions2 and it is believed by them1 that they were erected during the early part of the sixth century1 by ,theudio1 a ,gothic ,king1 who manifested much attachment to ,roman customs4 ,,letter ,,xiii4 ,,castles ,,of ,,almonacid1 ,,guadamur1 ,,montalban1 ,,and ,,escalona4 ,,torrijos4 ,toledo4 ,i met this morning with an entertaining scene1 in a quarter in which it might be the least looked for4 ,the archiepiscopal palace contains an excellent library1 which has always been open to the public4 ,although the revenues of the see are now withdrawn1 and the palace is vacant1 the books remain on the shelves1 and the head librarian1 a racionero of the cathedral1 has the good nature to throw open the rooms from eleven to twelve1 on all days of labour1 7as those are called on which no saint is celebrated17 although he no longer enjoys a salary1 nor the means of providing a single attendant to see to what passes in the different apartments4 ,i was occupied this morning in the racionero's room1 when he received a visit from two ,french tourists1 both persons of notoriety2 one being a member of the chamber of deputies1 and one of the leaders of the republican party2 and the other1 ,i believe1 also in the chamber1 but principally known as a writer of political pamphlets1 in which the ,french reigning family1 and the powers that be are lashed with unwearying severity4 ,the first mentioned personage commenced the conversation in ,spanish1 which the other did not speak3 but on hearing the librarian make an observation in ,french1 the pamphleteer took up the argument in his own language1 and nearly in the following terms4 ,as this gentleman understands ,french1 ,i will explain to him the object of my tour1 and addressing himself to the ,spaniard1 he continued--,i find it a relief1 in the midst of my arduous political duties1 to make an occasional excursion in a foreign country1 and thus to enlarge the sphere of my usefulness1 by promoting the cause of humanity in the various localities ,i visit4 ,it is thus that ,i have recently passed through ,andalucia1 and have recommended1 and1 ,i doubt not1 successfully1 to the principal personages possessed of influence in its numerous cities1 the establishment of all sorts of useful institutions4 ,i am now in ,toledo1 animated with the same zeal4 ,i have obtained an introduction to you1 ,sir1 understanding that you are an individual possessed of considerable influence1 and enjoying unbounded means of carrying out the projects1 which1 ,i doubt not1 you will agree with me in considering essential to the well being and improvement1 both moral and material1 of your ancient locality4 ,during this exordium1 the ,spaniard1 who happens to be possessed of a vivacity1 unusual in his countrymen1 and a sort of impatience of manner1 had endeavoured more than once to obtain a hearing4 ,at length he replied1 that he feared it would not be in his power to carry out the views which ,monsieur did him the honour to communicate to him1 owing to the absence of sufficient resources at his disposal1 whether for public purposes1 or in his individual and private capacity4 ,the ,frenchman was not1 however1 to be so easily discouraged4 ,this1 ,sir1 he replied1 is the result of your modesty2 but ,i am persuaded that ,i have only to make my objects understood1 in order to obtain their complete execution4 ,for instance1 one of the most insignificant in expense1 but of infinite utility1 is this3 it would be a source of much gratification to me1 if you would have the most conspicuous spots throughout ,toledo ornamented with statues1 representing1 with greater or less resemblance1 all the personages1 distinguished from various causes in the history of ,spain1 to whom ,toledo has given birth4 ,these works ,i should wish to be entrusted to artists of acknowledged talent1 and--he was proceeding with constantly increasing rapidity of enunciation1 when the exhausted librarian's patience being at an end1 he interrupted the torrent4 ,however grateful the city of ,toledo and myself must be for your interest and advice1 ,i am grieved to repeat that my anxiety to comply with your wishes is totally powerless4 ,we are without funds2 and ,i1 for my own part1 can assure you that ,i am sans le sou4 ,do me the favour to name any service of a less expensive nature1 and ,i shall rejoice in proving to you my entire devotion4 ,excuse my impolitesse4 ,i am called for in the next room4 ,i kiss your hand4 ,it is needless1 in fact the attempt would baffle human intelligence1 to conjecture what the real object of these very liberal and very political gentlemen might be1 in honouring all parts of ,spain with their visit4 ,the more distant environs of ,toledo1 principally towards the south and south-east1 are remarkable for a profusion of ruined castles4 ,supposing a circle drawn at a distance of thirty miles from ,toledo as its centre1 and divided1 as it would be1 by the ,tagus1 descending from east to west1 into two equal parts1 the southern half1 and the western portion of the other1 are so plentifully strewed with these fortresses1 that1 in many instances1 five or six are visible from the same point of view4 ,a chain of low mountains crosses the southern portion of the semicircle1 in a parallel line with the ,tagus4 ,some of its branches advance into this region1 and terminate in detached peaks1 which have afforded to the aristocracy of former times favourable positions for their strongholds2 and a still greater number of proprietors1 not being possessed of the same advantages of site1 were compelled to confide in the solidity of their walls and turrets1 which they constructed in the plain1 usually adjoining the villages or towns inhabited by their vassals4 ,the greater number of these edifices are of a date subsequent to the surrender of ,toledo to the ,christians1 and were erected on the distribution of the different towns and estates among the nobility1 on their being successively evacuated by their ,moorish proprietors4 ,the ,count of ,fuensalida1 ,duke of ,frias1 is the most considerable landed proprietor on this side of ,toledo1 and several of the ruined castles have descended to him4 ,i will not fatigue you by the enumeration of all these remains1 of which but a few are remarkable for picturesque qualities1 and still fewer for the possession of historical interest1 as far as can be known at present4 ,one of them1 situated ten miles to the south-east of ,toledo1 and visible from its immediate neighbourhood1 attracts notice owing to its striking position4 ,occupying the summit of a conical hill1 which stands alone on the plain1 and placed at four times the elevation of ,windsor ,castle1 you expect to find it connected with the history of some knightly ,peveril of the ,peak1 but learn with surprise that it was the stronghold of the ,archbishops of ,toledo2 and was erected by ,don ,pedro ,tenorio1 the same prelate who rebuilt the bridge of ,san ,martin1 and repaired the ,moorish castle of ,san ,servando4 ,before you ascend the peak1 you pass through the village of ,almonacid1 from which the castle takes its name1 and which1 unlike that more recently erected pile1 is completely ,arab in aspect4 ,all the houses are entered through back courts1 and present no difference of appearance1 whether shops1 taverns1 posadas1 or private residences4 ,after tying my horse in the stable of the posada1 and giving him his meal of barley1 which he had carried in the alforjas 7travelling bags7 suspended behind the saddle1 ,i took my own provisions out of the opposite receptacle1 and established myself before the kitchen fire4 ,on my asking for wine1 the hostess requested ,i would furnish her with two quartos 7one halfpenny7 with which she purchased me a pint1 at the tavern next door4 ,the host of the posada1 who was seated next me1 and a friend at the opposite corner of the fire-place1 favoured me1 during my meal1 with their reminiscences of a battle fought here1 during the ,peninsular war4 ,they had not heard of the ,english having taken any part in the quarrel1 with the exception of the old woman1 who recollected perfectly the name of ,wellington1 and pronounced it as perfectly1 but thought he had been a ,spanish general4 ,they described the battle as a hard fought one1 and won by the ,french1 who marched up the hill with fixed bayonets1 as the old host1 almost blind1 described by assuming the attitude of a soldier jogging up a hill1 and dislodged the ,spanish garrison from the castle4 ,i could have willingly passed a week in this village1 so exciting are the remains of ,arab manners to the curiosity4 ,the name of the place had already raised my expectations1 but the blind landlord of the posada unconsciously won my attachment from the first moment4 ,no sooner was ,i seated1 than1 leaning towards me1 and patting my arm to draw my attention1 he pointed to his two eyes4 ,at first ,i was at a loss to understand him2 but soon discovered that he was desirous of knowing whether ,i was sufficiently versed in the mysteries of ,esculapius1 to prescribe for the relief of his suffering organs4 ,to this trait he soon added one still more characteristic1 by actually speaking of ,toledo1 by its ,moorish appellation ,tolaite4 ,had he worn a turban1 sat cross-legged and offered me coffee and a pipe1 ,i should not have been more taken by surprise1 than by this ,arab expression assailing the ear1 in the heart of ,spain1 ten miles from the town itself1 in which the name had probably not been uttered for three or four centuries4 ,the builder of the castle of ,almonacid must have placed more confidence in the difficulties of approach1 than in the solidity of his structure4 ,the walls are partly of stone1 and partly of tapia1 or earth4 ,there only remain1 the exterior wall1 enclosing an area of about sixty to seventy yards in diameter1 and of a pentagonal form2 and1 in the centre1 the keep1 a quadrangular tower1 somewhat higher than the rest of the buildings4 ,there are no traces of living apartments4 ,at each of the five angles of the outer wall1 is a small tower1 and others in the centres of some of the fronts2 those looking to the west are circular1 the rest square4 ,the nearer view of this ruin causes disappointment1 as it appears to have been a slovenly and hasty construction3 but1 at a distance1 its effect is highly picturesque4 ,the castle of ,montalban is situated to the south-west of ,toledo1 at a distance of six ,spanish leagues4 ,it resembles1 in size and importance1 some of the largest ,english castles2 and justifies thus far the tradition preserved here1 of its having for a short period1 served for a royal prison--,juan the ,second being said to have been confined there by his exasperated favourite1 ,don ,alvaro de ,luna4 ,this story is not1 however1 confirmed by historians1 several of whom ,i have vainly consulted1 for the purpose of discovering it4 ,ferreras mentions the castle1 or rather the town1 which lies at a distance of two leagues 7eight miles7 from it1 as having belonged to the queen of ,juan the ,second2 who1 he states1 was deprived of it1 against her will1 in favour of ,don ,alvaro1 and another place given her in exchange4 ,on the confiscation of the favourite's possessions1 previous to his decapitation1 it reverted to the crown2 and there is no further notice taken of it in the history1 until the ,emperor ,charles the ,fifth1 confers on its then proprietor the title of ,count4 ,this personage was ,don ,alonzo ,tellez ,giron1 third in descent from ,juan ,pacheco1 ,duke of ,escalona1 who had erected ,montalban into a separate fief1 in favour of one of his sons and his descendants1 on the singular condition of the family name undergoing a change1 on each successive descent4 ,the alternate lords were to bear the names respectively of ,giron and ,pacheco4 ,the first ,count of ,montalban married a daughter of ,d4 ,ladron de ,guevara1 proprietor1 propos of castles1 of that of ,guevara1 in the neighbourhood of ,vitoria1 constructed in an extremely singular form4 ,the centre tower appears intended to imitate the castles of a chess-board4 ,it is situated on the southern declivity of the chain of mountains1 a branch of the ,pyrenees1 which separates the province of ,guipuscoa from those of ,navarre and ,alava4 ,on the opposite descent of the chain another fortress existed in remote times4 ,both were strongholds of robbers1 whose descendants derived their family name1 ,ladron 7robber7 from their ancestors' profession4 ,in a document signed by ,d4 ,garcia ,ramirez1 ,king of ,navarre in #aace1 ,d4 ,ladron de ,guevara1 governor of ,alava1 figures among the grandees of the kingdom2 the descendants were afterwards called lords of ,oate1 and the castle is at present the property of the ,count de ,oate1 a grandee of the first class4 ,from its occupying a point stratgique of considerable importance1 commanding the plain of ,alava1 and the high road as it enters the valley of ,borunda1 it has been in recent times occupied by the ,carlists1 and fortified4 ,montalban belongs at present to the ,count of ,fuensalida4 ,it is completely ruinous1 but the outer wall is almost entire2 and one of two lofty piles of building1 in the form of bastions1 which flanked the entrance1 is in sufficient preservation to allow the apartments to be recognised4 ,their floors were at a height of about eighty feet from the ground2 and the mass of masonry which supported them1 is pierced by an immense gothic arch reaching to the rooms4 ,the opposite corresponding mass remains also with its arch2 but the upper part which contained rooms1 no longer exists4 ,on this1 the entrance side1 the approach is almost level1 and the defence consisted of a narrow and shallow moat2 but the three other sides1 the fortress being of a quadrangular form1 look down into a deep ravine1 through which a river1 issuing from the left1 passes down two sides of the castle1 and makes for the valley of the ,tagus1 which river is seen at a distance of five or six miles4 ,the precipice at the furthest side descends perpendicularly1 and is composed of rocks in the wildest form4 ,the river below leaps from rock to rock1 and foams through a bed so tormented1 that1 although owing to its depth of at least five hundred feet from the foundations of the castle1 it looks almost like a thread1 it sends up a roar not less loud than that of the breakers under ,shakspeare's ,cliff4 ,the valley1 opening for its passage1 gives to the view1 first1 the ,tagus1 on the opposite bank of which lies the town of ,montalban1 dependant on the lords of the castle2 beyond it an extensive plain1 dotted with castles and towns1 most of them on the road from ,madrid to ,talavera2 and at the horizon the ,sierra del ,duque1 coated with snow from about half its height upwards4 ,the extent of the view is about sixty miles4 ,the outer enceinte of the castle of ,montalban encloses a space of five or six acres in extent1 in which no buildings remain1 with the exception of the picturesque ruin of a small chapel in the centre4 ,like almost all other residences possessed of scenery sufficiently precipitous1 this castle boasts its lover's leap4 ,a projection of wall is pointed out1 looking over the most perpendicular portion of the ravine1 to which a tradition is attached1 deprived by time of all tangible distinctness1 if ever it possessed any4 ,the title given to the spot in this instance is ,the ,leap of the ,moorish ,girl1 ,despeadera de la ,mora4 ,the position will probably bear no comparison with the ,leucadian promontory2 nor is it equal to the ,pea de los ,enamorados1 near ,antequera1 in ,andalucia1 immortal likewise in the annals of passion1 and of which the authentic story is preserved4 ,of those in our country ,i could name one--but ,i will not1 though few know it better--nor is it the meanest of its tribe4 ,but with these exceptions ,i know of none among the numerous plagiarisms of the famous lover's leap of antiquity that offers to despair in search of the picturesque more attractions than the ,despeadera of ,montalban4 ,illustration3 ,,castle ,,of ,,guadamur4 ,the best preserved castle of these environs1 and the handsomest building1 is that of ,guadamur4 ,it is not large1 but it is impossible for a residence-fortress to be more complete1 and more compact4 ,it is composed of three enclosures1 one within the other1 and forms a quadrangle1 with the addition of a lofty and massive tower1 projecting from one of the angles4 ,the centre1 or inner quadrangle1 is about half the height of the tower1 and has1 at its three remaining angles1 and at the centre of each front1 an elegant circular turret4 ,this portion of the edifice formed a commodious and handsome residence4 ,it was divided into two stories1 with vaulted ceilings1--the lower apartments being probably set apart for the offices of attendants1 and places of confinement for prisoners3 in the centre of the upper story was a diminutive open court1 supported by the vaults of the ground-floor1 and into which a series of elegantly proportioned rooms opened on all sides4 ,although the greater part of the vaults and interior walls are fallen in1 the rooms are all to be traced1 and inscriptions in the old ,gothic letter run round the walls of some of the apartments4 ,a second enclosure rises to about two-thirds of the elevation of the inner quadrangle1 and is provided with corresponding turrets2 but the proportions of these are more spacious1 and their construction and ornament more massive4 ,beyond this are the exterior defences rising out of the moat1 and very little above the surrounding ground4 ,viewed from without1 nothing indicates that this edifice is a ruin4 ,over the entrance are the arms of the ,counts of ,fuensalida4 ,it is supposed by many that this castle was erected by ,garcilaso de la ,vega1 grandfather of the ,prince of ,spanish poets1 as the celebrated bard of ,toledo is entitled4 ,others maintain its founder to have been ,pedro ,lopez de ,ayala1 first ,count of ,fuensalida4 ,this latter story is the more probable one2 since1 besides its being confirmed by the armorial shield above mentioned1 it has been adopted by ,haro in his ,nobiliario1 a work drawn up with care and research1 in which ,garcilaso de la ,vega is stated to have purchased some towns from the family of ,ayala1--among others ,cuerva1 in the near neighbourhood1 but not ,guadamur4 ,the ,ayalas were descended from the house of ,haro1 lords of ,biscay4 ,several of them had held high offices at the ,court of ,castile4 ,the grandfather of the founder of the castle had been ,high ,chancellor of ,castile1 and ,great ,chamberlain of ,juan the ,first2 and his father1 the first lord of ,fuensalida1 was ,high ,steward1 and first ,alcalde of ,toledo4 ,he lost an eye at the siege of ,antequera1--taken from the ,moors by ,ferdinand1 afterwards ,king of ,aragon1 in the year #adaj1 and thus acquired the surname of the ,one-eyed4 ,to him ,juan ,,ii4 first granted the faculty of converting his possessions into hereditary fiefs3 ,because1 according to one of the clauses of the act1 it was just that the houses of the grandees should remain entire in their state for the eldest son2 and in order that the eldest sons of the grandees might be maintained in the estates of their predecessors1 that the name and memory of the grandees of the kingdom might not be lost1 and that the hereditary possessions and houses1 and the generations of the sons of grandees might be preserved4 ,it was ,pedro ,lopez de ,ayala1 son of the one-eyed lord of ,fuensalida created ,count by ,enrique the ,fourth1 that built the castle4 ,he was a great favourite with the king1 and his constant companion1 notwithstanding his being afflicted with deafness--a bad defect in a courtier1 and which procured him also a surname4 ,he succeeded his father in his different dignities4 ,his loyalty did not keep pace with his obligations to ,henry the ,fourth2 for1 being first ,alcalde of ,toledo1 he made no effort to prevent that town from joining the party of the ,prince ,alonzo1 who pretended to his brother's crown2 but he was recalled to his allegiance by the devoted exertions of his wife4 ,this lady was ,doa ,maria de ,silva1 a daughter of ,alonzo ,tenorio de ,silva1 ,adelantado of ,cazorla4 ,on the breaking out of the rebellion of ,toledo1 she agreed with her brother ,pedro de ,silva1 ,bishop of ,badajos1 to send a joint letter to the king1 in which they pressed him to come to ,toledo in disguise4 ,enrique the ,fourth approved of the plan2 and arriving in the night1 accompanied by a single attendant1 was received by the bishop at his residence in the convent of ,san ,pedro ,martir4 ,notwithstanding the darkness1 he had been recognised by a servant of ,marshal ,payo de ,ribera1 a partisan of ,prince ,alonzo4 ,this noble1 immediately on learning the king's arrival1 joined with the ,alcalde1 who had not been let into the secret by his wife1 and called the citizens to arms by sounding the great bell of the cathedral4 ,a crowd was speedily assembled at the king's lodging1 who would have been immediately made prisoner1 but for his attendant ,fernando de ,ribadenegra1 who succeeded1 single handed1 in repulsing a party who had forced an entrance4 ,at this crisis the disloyal magistrate became alarmed1 and sent his two sons1 ,pedro de ,ayala1 and ,alonzo de ,silva1 accompanied by ,perafande ,ribera1 son of the above-mentioned marshal1 to entreat the king to quit the town4 ,henry consented2 and at midnight left the convent1 accompanied by the three youths4 ,he had ridden sixteen leagues that day1 and his horses being exhausted with fatigue1 he requested the two sons of ,ayala to lend him theirs4 ,they did so1 and accompanied him on foot as far as the city gates1 where he left them1 and set off for ,madrid4 ,in order to pacify the people1 ,pedro ,lopez ordered his brother-in-law1 the bishop1 to quit the town1 and he repaired to the ,huerta del ,rey1 a country-house in the environs4 ,on arriving at ,olias the king sent the two brothers1 in recompense of their good service1 a deed of gift of seventy thousand maravedis of annual revenue4 ,the grief of ,maria de ,silva at the failure of her project was such as almost to deprive her of her reason1 and added to the eloquence of her entreaties to win over her husband to the king's interests4 ,he now1 therefore1 exerted himself to gain the principal citizens1 and succeeded so completely1 that within three days from the departure of ,enrique the ,fourth1 he was enabled to recall the ,bishop of ,badajos to ,toledo1 and to banish in his stead the ,marshal de ,payo and his son1 who retired to their estates4 ,unanimous was now the cry of ,viva ,enrique ,quarto1 y ,mueren los rebeldes6 and the following day1 a ,sunday1 the king re-entered ,toledo in the midst of the general joy and festivity1 and preceded directly to the residence of the ,alcalde1 in order to thank his wife for her loyal efforts4 ,a lodging was there in readiness to receive him1 which he occupied during his stay in ,toledo4 ,pedro ,lopez de ,ayala received on the king's return to ,madrid the title of ,count of his town of ,fuensalida1 and shortly afterwards1 at ,medina del ,campo1 a grant of the towns of ,casaruvias del monte1 ,chocas1 and ,arroyomolinos4 ,the town and castle of ,escalona are situated at eight leagues1 or thirty-two miles1 to the east of ,toledo4 ,it is one of the towns1 about a dozen in number1 the foundation of which is attributed by the ,count de ,mora1 in his history of ,toledo1 to the ,jews4 ,he fixes the date at about five centuries before the ,christian era1 when a large number of ,israelites1 to whom ,cyrus1 king of ,babylon1 had granted their liberty1 arrived in ,spain under the guidance of a ,captain ,pirrus1 and fixed themselves principally in and around ,toledo4 ,he also states that the synagogue of ,toledo--since called ,santa ,maria la ,blanca--was erected by them4 ,the name given by them to ,escalona was ,ascalon4 ,the neighbouring ,maqueda was another of their towns1 and was called ,mazeda4 ,it was created a duchy by ,ferdinand and ,isabella in favour of their courtier ,cardenas4 ,i cannot learn the date of the castle of ,escalona4 ,alonzo the ,sixth won the town from the ,moors2 and it is probable that the castle was erected1 at least in part1 by ,diego and ,domingo ,alvarez1 two brothers1 to whom he granted the place4 ,after their death it reverted to the crown of ,castile1 and continued to be royal property until ,juan ,,ii4 gave it to his favourite ,don ,alvaro de ,luna4 ,this grandee was known to have amassed great treasures in the castle2 and on the confiscation of his possessions at the period of his final disgrace1 the king marched an army to take possession of the fortress2 but the countess held out successfully1 and obliged the royal troops to raise the siege4 ,on a second attempt1 made after ,don ,alvaro's execution1 his widow considered she had no further object in maintaining it1 and lost no time in coming to terms4 ,the conditions of the surrender were1 that the treasure should be divided into three equal parts1 one for the king1 another for herself1 and the third for her son4 ,the son was likewise allowed to inherit the castle1 and by the marriage of his daughter1 it came into the possession of the ,marquis of ,villena1 ,d4 ,lopez ,pacheco1 created ,duke of ,escalona by ,henry the ,fourth4 ,the family of ,fellez ,giron1 proprietors of ,montalban1 were descendants of this duke4 ,at present the castle of ,escalona belongs to the ,duke of ,ossuna4 ,it is not only the most considerable of the numerous ruins disposed over the territory of ,toledo1 but one of the most interesting historical relics of ,spain1 having filled an important place in the annals of several of the most stirring periods4 ,the unfortunate ,blanche1 ,queen of ,pedro the ,cruel1 was its inmate during several years2 as also her rival1 ,maria de ,padilla1 at a subsequent period4 ,the best excursion from ,toledo in point of architectural interest1 is that to ,torijos1 a small town situated rather to the left of the direct road to ,escalona1 and five leagues distant4 ,immediately before arriving there1 the castle of ,barciense is met with1 situated on an eminence which commands an admirable view1 extending south and west to a semi-circle of mountains1 composed of the ,sierra del ,duque1 and the chain called the mountains of ,toledo1 and for a foreground looking down on a perfect forest of olive-grounds1 surrounding the town of ,torijos1 two miles distant4 ,the ruin of ,barciense consists of a lofty square tower1 and the outer walls of a quadrangle4 ,there is nothing worth notice1 with the exception of a bas-relief1 which occupies all the upper half of the tower on the east side4 ,it consists of a solitary lion rampant2 probably the largest crest ever emblazoned4 ,the ,dukes of ,infantado were proprietors of this castle4 ,the little town of ,torijos contains a ,gothic1 or rather semi-,moorish palace1 two ,gothic churches1 an ancient picturesque gateway1 and the ruins of a magnificent monastery4 ,it is one of those towns here and there met with on the ,continent1 which1 at a favourable crisis of the arts1 have fallen to the proprietorship of one of those individuals idolised by architects--men whose overplus of fortune is placed at the disposal of their eyes1 and employed in ministering to the gratification of those organs4 ,the greater part of the decoration of ,torijos dates from the reign of ,ferdinand the ,catholic1 when it belonged to ,d4 ,gutiere de ,cardenas1 father of the first duke of ,maqueda4 ,the following story is related respecting the founding of the monastery by his wife ,teresa ,enriquez4 ,this lady resided1 when at ,toledo1 in a mansion1 the ruins of which still exist1 on the opposite side of the street to the monastery of ,san ,juan de los ,reyes1 of which ,i sent you a description in a former letter4 ,being warmly attached to religious observances1 7for she went by the name of ,teresa la ,santa17 and animated with an enthusiastic fervour towards everything which appertained to the splendid establishment in front of her residence1 she had discovered a position1 from which a view could be obtained1 overlooking the principal scene of the religious ceremonies of the ,franciscans4 ,she there caused a window to be constructed1 splendidly ornamented in the ,arab style1 and kneeling on a rich prie-dieu1 she united her daily devotions with those of the frailes4 ,no small sensation was caused by this proceeding1 most perceptible probably within the monastery1 on the discovery being made by the brethren of the addition to their holy fraternity4 ,the cardinal became alarmed1 and intimated to ,doa ,teresa that the window was ill-placed1--that it admitted too much light in a wrong direction2 that1 in short1 it must disappear4 ,the veto of the all-powerful ,ximenes de ,cisneros1 already regarded as the dispenser of the royal frowns and favours1 could not be resisted4 ,the window was blocked up2 but the interference was replied to in terms pointed with pious pique and holy revenge4 ,the lady declared verbally to the prelate that she had no need of his convent1 for she would found a more splendid one at ,torijos4 ,this threat1 immediately put in execution1 produced the building ,i mentioned above1 the ruin of which is all that now remains4 ,of the inhabited portions the external walls alone remain4 ,the cloister is almost entire1 and the church has only lost its roof4 ,the rich tracery surrounding the doorways1 and the sculpture in all parts of the interior1 consisting chiefly of repetitions of the founder's armorial bearings--in imitation or satire of the profusion of similar ornament in ,san ,juan de los ,reyes--are entire1 and appear as though they had been recently executed4 ,the church is designed after the plan of ,san ,juan1 but the style of its ornament is much more elegant4 ,the cloister is1 however1 very inferior to that of ,toledo1 and the whole establishment on a smaller scale4 ,every traveller in search of the picturesque knows in how great a degree his satisfaction has been increased whenever the meeting with a scene deserving of his admiration assumes the nature of a discovery4 ,for this reason1 the chapters of tourists should never be perused before a journey--independently of their possessing more interest subsequently to an acquaintance having been made with the country described4 ,strictly speaking written tours are intended for those who stay at home4 ,but the most favourable first view of a highly admirable building or landscape1 is the one you obtain after the perusal of tours and descriptions of the country1 in none of which any notice is taken of that particular object or scene4 ,the village of ,torijos is approached under these advantageous circumstances4 ,every step is a surprise1 owing partly to the above cause1 and partly to one's being inured to the almost universal dreariness and ugliness of the villages and small towns of this part of ,spain4 ,the appearance under these circumstances of a beautiful ,gothic cross and fountain1 of an original and uncommon design1 outside the walls of the place1 and the open tracery of the tall windows of the ruined monastery at the other side of a green meadow1 creates an agreeable surprise1 and adds considerably to the pleasure which would be derived from the same objects1 had expectation been already feeding on their beauties4 ,imagine1 then1 the discovery1 after leaving behind these monuments1 7sufficient for the immortality of a score of ,castilian villages17 of the faade of the principal church1 consisting of one of the richest and most exquisite specimens of ,gothic decoration in ,spain2 and1 a street further on1 of a second ornamental portal of a different sort1 but ,gothic likewise1 giving access to a half ,arab palace4 ,the ,count of ,altamira is the proprietor of this place1 but neither he nor any of his family have inhabited the edifice for several years1 and it is allowed to go to decay4 ,some of the artesonado ceilings1 more especially that of the chapel in form of a cupola1 admit the light through the joinings of the gilded woodwork4 ,a large hall on the first-floor1 which formed the anteroom to a suite of inner apartments1 decorated in the ,arab style1 has been taken possession of by the haute vole of ,torijos for their public ball-room4 ,a tribune for musicians is placed against one of the end walls1 and adorned with paper festoons4 ,a placard1 inscribed with the word galop1 was visible in front of the seat of the leader of the band1 indicating that the ,torijos balls terminate with that lively dance4 ,there was no furniture in that nor any other part of the house1 with the exception of an entresol inhabited by the count's steward4 ,this person no sooner learned that ,i was an ,englishman1 than he commenced setting in the best possible light the advantages the premises possessed for the establishment of every sort of manufactory4 ,it appears the proprietor is anxious to dispose of the building2 and as all the ,english pass here for manufacturers1 owing to the principal articles of common use1 introduced by smugglers1 being ,english1 the worthy factotum had instantly made up his mind that ,i was the purchaser sent by ,providence to take the old edifice off his master's hands4 ,he is evidently either promised a bonus on the success of his efforts to sell1 or he wished to pass with the property2 for his idea produced a degree of zeal most useful towards the satisfaction of my curiosity1 and without which his patience would have been exhausted before ,i had completed the view of the building4 ,one peculiarity of the rooms consists in the ceilings--that is1 the ornamental ones--being nearly all either domes1 or interiors of truncated pyramids4 ,there is only one flat4 ,it is ornamented with the shell of the arms of the ,cardenas family--each of the hundreds of little square compartments having one in its centre4 ,the staircase is adorned with beautiful ,gothic tracery4 ,,letter ,,xiv4 ,,valladolid4 ,,san ,,pablo4 ,,college ,,of ,,san ,,gregorio4 ,,route ,,by ,,saragoza4 ,tolosa4 ,i should have sent you an account of my excursion to ,valladolid at the time it took place1 but was prevented by the shortness of my stay and the hurry of my departure from ,madrid1 which immediately followed4 ,i preserved1 however1 memoranda of the limited explorations which were to be made during a flying visit of three days1 and will now give you the benefit of them1 such as they are2 as also of my experience of the public travelling in that direction4 ,you will recommend your friends1 who may visit this land of adventure1 and are careful at the same time of their personal comforts1 to wait the introduction of railroads1 before attempting this excursion1 when you hear that ,i met with three upsets in one night1 and was afforded1 in all1 nearly five hours' leisure for contemplating the effect of moonlight upon the sleeping mules and an upside-down carriage6 ,the town of ,valladolid contains monuments of much interest1 although none of great antiquity4 ,the greater number date from the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries1 and form a chain1 illustrative of the progress of architecture in this country1 subsequently to the abandonment of the ,gothic style4 ,this style is1 however1 worthily represented by two edifices1 placed in juxtaposition1 and ornamented each with a faade of extraordinary richness4 ,i will content myself with the endeavour to give you some idea of these two buildings1 which1 although belonging to a style so common in ,england and ,france1 are totally unlike all the ,gothic specimens ,i am acquainted with in those countries4 ,illustration3 ,,fa,,ade ,,of ,,san ,,pablo4 ,the largest of the two is the monastery of ,san ,pablo4 ,it was a foundation of much magnificence1 and the building has sustained very little injury1 owing to its having1 immediately on the expulsion of the monks1 been applied to other uses1 instead of being deserted and left to decay4 ,it is now a ,presidio1 or central prison for condemned malefactors4 ,the cloister is a superb quadrangle1 of the pointed style of the end of the fourteenth century1 and is the usual resort of the prisoners1 who are grouped so thickly over its pavement1 that it is with difficulty one passes between them1 without adding to the clanking of chains as their wearers change their posture to make way4 ,the faade of the church is enclosed between two small octagon towers without ornament1 like a picture in a frame4 ,within these all is sculpture4 ,the door-way is formed of a triple concentric arch1 flanked by rows of statues1 all of which are enclosed within another arch1 which extends across the whole width1 from tower to tower4 ,over this there is a circular window1 surrounded with armorial escutcheons1 and the remainder of the faade is covered with groups of figures in compartments1 up to the summit1 a height of about a hundred and thirty feet1 where there is a pediment ornamented with an immense armorial shield and lions rampant as supporters1 and the whole is surmounted by a cross4 ,the church was erected by the celebrated ,torquemada1 who was a monk in the establishment4 ,doa ,maria1 ,queen of ,sancho the ,fourth1 although mentioned as the founder of the monastery1 only completed a small portion of the edifice compared to what was subsequently added4 ,a handsome tomb by ,pompeyo ,leoni1 is seen in the church4 ,it is that of ,don ,francisco de ,sandoval1 ,duke of ,lerma1 and his wife4 ,the woodwork of the stalls is by ,ferrara4 ,it is adorned with fluted ,doric columns1 and is composed of walnut1 ebony1 box and cedar4 ,the superb faade of this church and its sumptuous tracery1 had well nigh been the cause of a misunderstanding between the representative of the ,spanish ,government and myself4 ,to obtain admission to the interior of the building1 which ,i was told had become national property1 ,i addressed my humble request in writing to the gefe politico1 or governor of the province1 resident at ,valladolid4 ,i left the note at his official residence1 and was requested to return at an hour appointed1 when ,i was to obtain an audience4 ,the functions of a gefe politico answer to those of no provincial functionary in ,england1 or any other constitutional state--he has more authority even than a ,prfet in ,france4 ,he represents the monarchical power1 with this difference1 that he is uncontrolled by parliament within the limits of his province4 ,although not charged with the military administration1 he can direct and dispose of the armed force2 besides being a sort of local home minister and police magistrate2 in fact1 the factotum or me damne of the ,cromwell of the moment1 with whom he is in direct and constant communication on the affairs of his district4 ,i was at ,valladolid during the regency of ,espartero1 when the cue given to these functionaries1 relative to the surveillance of foreigners was very anti-,french1 and favourable to ,england4 ,now in the eyes of a gens-d'armes every one is a thief until he can bring proof to the contrary1 just as by the jurisprudence of certain continental countries1 every accused is presumed criminal--just as every one who comes to a ,jew is presumed by him to have old clothes to sell1 or money to borrow4 ,thus1 owing to the nature of the duties of the ,governor of ,valladolid1 every foreigner who met his eye1 was a ,frenchman1 and an intrigant1 until he should prove the reverse4 ,not being aware of this at the time1 ,i had drawn up my petition in ,french4 ,on my return for the answer1 my reception was any thing but encouraging4 ,the excessive politeness of the ,spaniard was totally lost sight of1 and ,i perceived a moody-looking1 motionless official1 seated at a desk1 with his hat resting on his eyebrows1 and apparently studying a newspaper4 ,i stood in the middle of the room for two or three minutes unnoticed2 after which1 deigning to lift his head1 the personage inquired in a gruff tone1 why ,i did not open my cloak4 ,i was not as yet acquainted with the ,spanish custom of drawing the end of the cloak from off the left shoulder1 on entering a room4 ,i therefore only half understood the question1 and1 being determined1 at whatever price1 to see ,san ,pablo1 ,i took off my cloak1 laid it on a chair1 and returned to face the official4 ,i took the liberty of requesting your permission to view the ancient monastery of ,san ,pablo4--,and1 pray1 what is your reason for wishing to see ,san ,pablo8--,curiosity4--,oh1 that is all1 is it6--,i own likewise1 that1 had ,i found that the interior corresponded1 in point of architectural merit1 with the faade1 ,i might have presumed to wish to sketch it1 and carry away the drawing in my portmanteau4--,oh1 no doubt--very great merit4 ,you are a ,frenchman8--,i beg your pardon1 only an ,englishman4--,you6 an ,englishman66 ,no answer4 ,and pray1 from what part of ,england do you come8 ,i declined the county1 parish1 and house4 ,these ,english expressions1 which ,i had expected would come upon his ear1 with the same familiarity as if they had been ,ethiopian or ,chinese1 produced a sudden revolution in my favour4 ,the ,solomon became immediately sensible of the extreme tact he had been displaying4 ,addressing me in perfect ,english1 he proceeded to throw the blame of my brutal reception on the unfortunate state of his country4 ,all the ,french1 he said1 who come here1 come with the intention of intriguing and doing us harm4 ,you wrote to me in ,french1 and that was the cause of my error4 ,the monastery is now a prison2 ,i will give you an order to view it1 but you will not find it an agreeable scene1 it is full of criminals in chains4 ,and he proceeded to prepare the order4 ,not having recovered the compliment of being taken for a conspirator2 nor admiring the civilisation of the governor of a province1 who supposed that all the thirty-four millions of ,french1 must be intrigants1 ,i received his civilities in silence1 took the order1 and my departure4 ,the most curious part of the affair was1 that ,i had no passport at the time1 having lost it on the road4 ,had my suspicious interrogator ascertained this before making the discovery that ,i was ,english1 ,i should inevitably have been treated to more of ,san ,pablo than ,i desired1 or than would have been required for drawing it in detail4 ,the adjoining building is smaller1 and with less pretension to magnificence is filled with details far more elaborate and curious4 ,the ,gothic architecture1 like the ,greek1 assumed as a base and principle of decoration the imitation of the supposed primitive abodes of rudest invention4 ,the ,greek version of the idea is characterised by all the grace and finished elegance peculiar to its inventors2 while the same principle in the hands of the framers of ,gothic architecture1 gave birth to a style less pure and less refined2 but bolder1 more true to its origin1 and capable of more varied application4 ,in both cases may be traced the imitation of the trunks of trees2 but it is only in the ,gothic style that the branches are added1 and that instances are found of the representation of the knots and the bark4 ,in this architecture1 the caverns of the interior of mountains are evidently intended by the deep1 multiplied1 and diminishing arches1 which form the entrances of cathedrals2 and the rugged exterior of the rocky mass1 which might enclose such a primval abode1 is imaged in the uneven and pinnacled walls4 ,illustration3 ,,fa,,ade ,,of ,,san ,,gregorio1 ,,valladolid4 ,the faade of the college of ,san ,gregorio1 adjoining ,san ,pablo1 furnishes an example of the ,gothic decoration brought back to its starting point4 ,the tree is here in its state of nature2 and contributes its trunk1 branches1 leaves1 and its handfuls of twigs bound together4 ,a grove is represented1 composed of strippling stems1 the branches of some of which1 united and bound together1 curve over1 and form a broad arch1 which encloses the door-way4 ,at each side is a row of hairy savages1 each holding in one hand a club resting on the ground1 and in the other an armorial shield4 ,the intervals of the sculpture are covered with tracery1 representing entwined twigs1 like basket-work4 ,over the door is a stone fourteen feet long by three in height1 covered with fleurs-de-lis on a ground of wicker-work1 producing the effect of muslin4 ,immediately over the arch is a large flower-pot1 in which is planted a pomegranate tree4 ,its branches spread on either side and bear fruit1 besides a quantity of little ,cupids1 which cling to them in all directions4 ,in the upper part they enclose a large armorial escutcheon1 with lions for supporters4 ,the arms are those of the founder of the college1 ,alonzo de ,burgos1 ,bishop of ,palencia4 ,on either side of this design1 and separated respectively by steins of slight trees1 are compartments containing armed warriors in niches1 and armorial shields4 ,all the ornaments ,i have enumerated cover the faade up to its summit1 along which project entwined branches and sticks1 represented as broken off at different lengths4 ,illustration3 ,,court ,,of ,,san ,,gregorio4 ,,valladolid4 ,the court of this edifice is as elaborately ornamented as the faade1 but it was executed at a much later period1 and belongs to the renaissance4 ,the pillars are extremely elegant and uncommon4 ,the doorway of the library is well worthy of notice2 also that of the refectory4 ,the college of ,san ,gregorio was1 in its day1 the most distinguished in ,spain4 ,such was the reputation it had acquired1 that the being announced as having studied there was a sufficient certificate for the proficiency of a professor in science and erudition4 ,it is still a college1 but no longer enjoys the same exclusive renown4 ,in the centre of the chapel is the tomb of the founder1 covered with excellent sculpture1 representing the four virtues1 and the figures of three saints and the ,virgin4 ,it is surrounded by a balustrade ornamented with elaborate carving4 ,berruguete is supposed to have been the sculptor1 but in the uncertainty which exists on the subject1 it would not be difficult to make a better guess1 as it is very superior to all the works ,i have seen attributed to that artist4 ,at the foot of the statue of the bishop is the following short inscription1 ,operibus credite4 ,to this prelate was due the faade of ,san ,pablo2 he was a ,dominican monk at ,burgos1 where he founded several public works4 ,he became confessor1 chief chaplain1 and preacher to ,isabel the ,catholic3 afterwards ,bishop of ,cordova2 and was ultimately translated to the see of ,palencia4 ,he received the sobriquet of ,fray ,mortero1 as some say from the form of his face1 added to the unpopularity which he shared with the two other favorites of ,ferdinand and ,isabella1--the ,duke of ,maqueda1 and ,cardinal ,ximenes1 with whom he figured in a popular triplet which at that period circulated throughout ,spain1 ,cardenas1 el ,cardenal1 ,con el padre ,fray ,mortero1 ,fraen el reyno al retortero4 which may be freely translated thus3 ,what with his ,grace the ,cardinal1 ,with ,cardenas1 and ,father ,mortar1-- ,spain calls aloud for quarter6 quarter6 ,the concise inscription seen on the tomb1 was probably meant as an answer to this satire1 and to the injurious opinion generally received respecting his character4 ,i returned from ,toledo by way of ,madrid and ,saragoza4 ,the diligence track from ,toledo to ,madrid was in a worse state than at the time of my arrival3 a circumstance by no means surprising1 since what with the wear and tear of carts and carriages1 aided by that of the elements1 and unopposed by human labour1 it must deteriorate gradually until it becomes impassable4 ,since my last visit to the ,museo the equestrian portrait of ,charles the ,fifth by ,titian has been restored4 ,it was in so degraded a condition that the lower half1 containing the foreground and the horses' legs1 presented scarcely a distinguishable object4 ,it has been handled with care and talent1 and1 in its present position in the centre of the gallery1 it now disputes the palm with the ,spasimo1 and is worth the journey to ,madrid1 were there nothing else to be seen there4 ,i paid another visit to the ,saint ,elizabeth in the ,academy1 and to the ,museum of ,natural ,history1 contained in the upper floor of the same building4 ,this gallery boasts the possession of an unique curiosity2 the entire skeleton of a ,megatherion strides over the well-furnished tables of one of the largest rooms4 ,i believe an idea of this gigantic animal can nowhere else be formed4 ,the head must have measured about the dimensions of an elephant's body4 ,from ,castile into ,aragon the descent is continual1 and the difference of climate is easily perceptible4 ,vineyards here climb the mountains1 and the plains abound with olive-grounds1 which are literally forests1 and in which the plants attain to the growth of those of ,andalucia4 ,in corresponding proportion to the improving country1 complaints are heard of its population4 ,murders and robberies form the subject of conversations2 and certain towns are selected as more especially mal-composes1 for the headquarters of strong bodies of guardia civile2 without which precaution travelling would here be attended with no small peril4 ,this state of things is attributed partly to the disorganising effects of the recent civil war1 which raged with peculiar violence in this province4 ,the same causes have operated less strongly in the adjoining ,basque provinces1 from their having to act on a population of a different character1--colder1 more industrious1 and more pacifically disposed1 and without the desperate sternness and vindictive temper of the ,aragonese4 ,the inhabitants of this province differ in costume and appearance from the rest of the ,spaniards4 ,immediately on setting foot on the ,aragonese territory1 you are struck by the view of some peasant at the road-side3 his black broad-brimmed hat1--waistcoat1 breeches1 and stockings all of the same hue1 varied only by the broad faja1 or sash of purple1 make his tall erect figure almost pass for that of a ,presbyterian clergyman1 cultivating his ,highland garden4 ,the natives of ,aragon have not the vivacity and polished talkativeness of the ,andalucian and other ,spaniards2 they are reserved1 slow1 and less prompt to engage in conversation1 and often abrupt and blunt in their replies4 ,these qualities are not1 however1 carried so far as to silence the continual chatter of the interior of a ,spanish diligence4 ,spanish travelling opens the sluices of communicativeness even of an ,aragonese1 as it would those of the denizens of a first class vehicle of a ,great ,western train1 were they exposed during a short time to its vicissitudes4 ,however philosophers may explain the phenomenon1 it is certain that the talkativeness of travellers augments in an inverse ratio to their comforts4 ,the ,spaniards complain of the silence of a ,french diligence2 while1 to a ,frenchman1 the occupants of the luxurious corners of an ,english railroad conveyance1 must appear to be afflicted with dumbness4 ,saragoza is one of the least attractive of ,spanish towns4 ,its situation is as flat and uninteresting as its streets are ugly and monotonous4 ,the ancient palace of the sovereigns of ,aragon is now the ,ayuntamiento4 ,it would form1 in the present day1 but a sorry residence for a private individual1 although it presents externally a massive and imposing aspect4 ,its interior is almost entirely sacrificed to an immense hall1 called now the ,lonja4 ,it is a ,gothic room1 containing two rows of pillars1 supporting a groined ceiling4 ,it is used for numerous assemblies1 elections1 and sometimes for the carnival balls4 ,the ancient ,cathedral of ,la ,seu is a gothic edifice1 of great beauty internally2 but the natives are still prouder of the more modern church called ,nuestra ,seora del ,pilar1--an immense building in the ,italian style1 erected for the accommodation of a statue of the ,virgin found on the spot1 standing on a pillar4 ,this image is the object of peculiar veneration4 ,after leaving ,saragoza you are soon in the ,basque provinces4 ,the first considerable town is ,tudela in ,navarre2 and here we were strongly impressed with the unbusinesslike nature of the ,spaniard4 ,this people1 thoroughly good-natured and indefatigable in rendering a service1 when the necessity arises for application to occupations of daily routine appear to exercise less intelligence than some other nations4 ,it is probably owing to this cause that at ,madrid the anterooms of the ,foreign ,office1 situated in the palace1 are1 at four in the afternoon1 the scene of much novelty and animation4 ,in a town measuring no more than a mile and a half in each direction1 the inexperienced stranger usually puts off to the last day of his stay the business of procuring his passport1 and he is taken by surprise on finding it to be the most busy day of all4 ,little did he expect that the four or five visas will not be obtained in less than forty-eight hours3 and he pays for his place in the diligence or mail 7always paid in advance7 several days before4 ,it is consequently worth while to attend in person at the ,secretary of ,state's office1 in search of one's passport1 in order to witness the scene4 ,the hour for the delivery of these inevitable documents1 coincides with the shutting up for the day of all the embassies3 so that those which require the subsequent visa of an ambassador1 have to wait twenty-four hours4 ,hence the victims of official indifference1 finding themselves disappointed of their departure1 and minus the value of a place in the mail1 give vent to their dissatisfaction in a variety of languages1 forming a singular contrast to the phlegmatic and impassible porters and ushers1 accustomed to the daily repetition of similar scenes4 ,some1 rendered unjust by adversity1 loudly accuse the government of complicity with the hotel-keepers4 ,i saw a ,frenchman whose case was cruel4 ,his passport had been prepared at his embassy1 and as he was only going to ,france1 there were no more formalities necessary1 but the visa of the police1 and that of the foreign office4 ,all was done but the last1 and he was directed to call at four o'clock4 ,his place was retained in that evening's mail1 and being a mercantile traveller1 both time and cash were of importance to him4 ,on applying at the appointed hour1 his passport was returned to him without the visa1 because the ,french ,secretary had1 in a fit of absence1 written ,cadiz1 instead of ,bordeaux--he was to wait a day to get the mistake rectified4 ,these inconveniences were surpassed by that to which the passengers of our diligence were subjected at ,tudela4 ,imagine yourself ensconced in a corner of the ,exeter mail 7when it existed7 and on arriving at ,taunton1 or any intermediate town1 being informed that an unforeseen circumstance rendered it necessary to remain there twenty-four hours1 instead of proceeding in the usual manner4 ,on this announcement being made at ,tudela1 ,i inquired what had happened1 and learned that a diligence1 which usually met ours1 and the mules of which were to take us on1 was detained a day at ,tolosa1 a hundred miles off4 ,rather than send a boy to the next stage to bring the team of mules1 which had nothing to do1 a dozen travellers had to wait until the better fortunes of the previous vehicle should restore it to its natural course4 ,as if this contretems was not sufficient1 we were subjected to the most galling species of tyranny1 weighing on the dearest of human privileges1 ,i mean that which the proprietor of a shilling1--zwanziger1 franc1 or pezeta1--feels that he possesses of demanding to be fed4 ,we had left ,saragoza at nine in the morning1 and had arrived without stoppages at six4 ,a plentiful dinner1 smoking on the table of the comedor1 might have produced a temporary forgetfulness of our sorrows3 but no entreaties could prevail on the hostess to lay the table-cloth4 ,it was usual for the joint supper of the two coaches to take place at nine1 and not an instant sooner should we eat4 ,weighed down by this complication of miseries1 we sat1 a disconsolate party1 round the brasero1 until at about eight our spirits began to rise at the sight of a table-cloth2 and during half an hour1 the occasional entrance of a waiting woman1 with the different articles for the table1 kept our hopes buoyed up1 and our heads in motion towards the door1 each time it opened to give entrance1 now to a vinegar cruet1 now to a salt-cellar4 ,at length an angelic figure actually bore in a large dish containing a quantity of vegetables1 occasioning a cry of joy to re-echo through our end of the room4 ,she placed it on a side-board and retired4 ,again the door opened1 when to our utter dismay1 another apparition moved towards the dish1 took it up and carried it away2 shutting the door carefully behind her4 ,this was the best thing that could have occurred2 since it produced a sudden outburst of mirth1 which accompanied us to the table1 now speedily adorned with the materials of a plentiful repast4 ,the next town to ,tudela1 is the gay and elegant little fortress of ,pamplona1 from which place an easy day's journey1 through a tract of superb mountain scenery1 brings you to ,tolosa1 the last resting-place on the ,spanish side4 ,,part ,,ii4 ,,seville4 ,,letter ,,xv4 ,,journey ,,to ,,seville4 ,,character ,,of ,,the ,,spaniards4 ,,valley ,,of ,,the ,,rhone4 ,marseille4 ,in order to reach the south of ,spain1 the longest route is that which1 passing through ,france1 leads by ,bayonne to the centre of the northern frontier of the ,peninsula1 which it then traverses from end to end4 ,it is not the longest in actual distance2 but in regard to time1 and to fatigue1 and 7for all who do not travel by ,diligence71 by far the longest1 with regard to expense4 ,another route1 longer1 it is true1 in distance1 but shorter with respect to all these other considerations1 is that by ,lyons and ,marseille2 from either of which places1 the journey may be made entirely by steam4 ,the shortest of all1 and in every respect1 is that by the ,gibraltar mail1 which leaves ,london and ,falmouth once a week4 ,this is a quicker journey than that through ,france1 even for an inhabitant of ,france1 supposing him resident at ,paris1 and to proceed to ,england vi le ,hvre4 ,but there is an objection to this route for a tourist4 ,desirous of visiting foreign scenes1 he will find it too essentially an ,english journey--direct1 sure1 and horribly business-like and monotonous4 ,you touch1 it is true1 at ,lisbon1 where during a few hours1 you may escape from the beef and ,stilton cheese1 if not from the ,port wine2 and where you may enjoy the view of some fine scenery2 but all the rest is straight-forward1 desperate paddling night and day2 with the additional objection1 that being surrounded by ,english faces1 living on ,english fare1 and listening to ,english voices1 the object of the traveller--that of quitting ,england--is not attained2 since he cannot be said to have left that country1 until he finds himself quarrelling with his rapacious boatman on the pier of the glittering ,cadiz4 ,although this arrangement may possess the merit of the magic transition from ,england to ,andalucia1 which1 it must be allowed1 is a great one--many will prefer being disembarked in ,france2 looking forward1 since there is a time for all things1 to a still more welcome disembarkation on ,england's white shores1 when the recollected vicissitudes of travel shall have disposed them to appreciate more than ever her comforts and civilization1 and to be more forgiving to her defects2 and1 should they not be acquainted with the banks of the ,rhone below ,lyons1 adopting that equally commodious and infinitely more varied course4 ,in fact1 there are few who will not agree with me in pronouncing this the best way1 for the tourist1 of approaching ,spain4 ,it is not every one1 who will not consider the gratifications which the inland territory of the ,peninsula may offer to his curiosity too dearly purchased by the inconveniences inseparable from the journey4 ,add to this the superiority of the maritime provinces1 with scarcely any exception1 in point of climate1 civilization1 and attractions of every sort4 ,valencia1 ,barcelona1 ,malaga1 and ,cadiz are more agreeable places of residence1 and possess more resources than even ,madrid2 but their chief advantage is a difference of climate almost incredible1 from the limited distance which separates them from the centre of the ,peninsula4 ,the ,andalucian coast enjoys one of the best climates in the world2 while the ,castiles1 ,aragon1 and ,la ,mancha can hardly be said to possess the average advantages in that respect2 owing to the extremes of cold and heat1 which characterize their summer and winter seasons1 and which1 during autumn and spring1 are continually alternating in rapid transition4 ,andalucia unites in a greater degree than the other maritime provinces1 the advantages which constitute their superiority over the rest of ,spain4 ,it does more1 for it presents to the stranger a combination of the principal features of interest1 which render the ,peninsula more especially attractive to the lover of travel4 ,it is1 in fact1 to ,spain what ,paris is to ,france2 ,moscow and ,petersburg to ,russia4 ,england1 ,italy1 and ,germany are not fit subjects for illustrating the comparison2 their characteristic features of attraction and interest being disseminated more generally throughout all their provinces or states4 ,whoever wishes to find ,spain herself1 unalloyed1 in her own character and costume1 and in her best point of view1 should disembark in ,andalucia4 ,there1 unlike the ,castiles1 and the still more northern provinces1 in which only the earth and air remain ,spanish1 and those not the best ,spanish--where all the picturesque and original qualities that distinguish the population1 are fast fading away--the upper classes in their manners and costumes1 and the ,radicals in their politics1 striving to become ,french--there1 on the contrary1 all is natural and national in its half-,arab nationality3 and certainly nature and nationality have given proof of taste in selecting for their last refuge1 the most delicious of regions2 where earth and heaven have done their utmost to form an abode1 worthy of the most beautiful of the human1 as well as the brute creation4 ,i will not pause to inquire whether the reproach be justly addressed by the other ,spaniards1 to the inhabitants of this province1 of indolence and love of pleasure1 and of a disposition to deceitfulness1 concealed beneath the gay courtesy of their manners2 it would1 indeed1 be a surprising1 a miraculous exception to the universal system of compensations that we recognise as governing the world1 had not this people some prominent defect1 or were they not exposed to some peculiar element of suffering1 to counterbalance in a degree the especial and exclusive gifts heaped upon them4 ,by what other means could their perfect happiness be interfered with8 ,let us1 then1 allow them their defects--the necessary shade in so brilliant a picture--defects which1 in reducing their felicity to its due level1 are easily fathomed1 and their consequences guarded against1 by sojourners amongst them1 in whose eyes their peculiar graces1 and the charm of their manner of life1 find none the less favour from their being subject to the universal law of humanity4 ,they cannot be better painted in a few words1 than by the sketch1 drawn by the witty and graceful ,lantier1 from the inhabitants of ,miletus4 ,les ,milesiens1 he says1 sont aimables4 ,ils emportent1 peut-tre1 sur les ,athniens 7read ,castillans7 par leur politesse1 leur amnit1 et les agrmens de leur esprit4 ,on leur reproche avec raison cette facilit--cette mollesse de moeurs1 qui prend quelquefois l'air de la licence4 ,tout enchante les sens dans ce sjour fortun--la puret de l'air--la beaut des femmes--enfin leur musique--leurs danses1 leurs jeux--tout inspire la volupt1 et pntre l'me d'une langueur dlicieuse4 ,les ,zphirs ne s'y agitent que pour repandre au loin l'esprit des fleurs et des plantes1 et embaumer l'air de leurs suaves odeurs4 ,this passage is1 word for word1 so exactly applicable to the ,andalucians and their land1 that it is difficult to imagine another people to have sat for the portrait1 nor to a more talented painter4 ,it is a pity that the author ,i quote1 is a rarity in modern libraries3 owing1 perhaps1 to his descriptions being at times rather warm1 or1 as his compatriots would say1 un peu regence4 ,in ,spain1 the country of proverbs1 they are very fond of summing up1 by the aid of a few epithets1 the distinctive character of each province4 ,as bad qualities frequently predominate in these estimates1 it is of course usual for the individual1 who undertakes the instruction of a foreigner in this department of knowledge1 to omit the mention of his own province4 ,after all1 the defects attributed to the inhabitants of one portion of a country by those of another1 are not to be taken for granted without considerable reservation2 allowance must be made for rivalry and jealousies4 ,almost every country affords examples of these wholesale accusations laid to the charge of particular counties or divisions of territory4 ,thus the character usually attributed in ,spain to the ,andalucians1 is that of a people lively1 gay1 of extreme polish and amiability of manners1 but false and treacherous4 ,the ,galicians are said to be stupid and heavy1 but remarkably honest2 the ,catalonians courageous but quarrelsome1 mauvais coucheurs4 ,no doubt in some of these instances1 the general impression may be borne out to a certain extent1 by some particular class of the denizens of the province alluded to2 but such distinctions are rarely perceptible among the educated classes4 ,it is perhaps less easy in ,spain than elsewhere1 to establish these classifications at all successfully4 ,contradictions will be met with at every step1 calculated to shake their infallibility4 ,to our eye1 as foreigners1 there are sufficient peculiarities belonging to the nation universally1 and respecting which our knowledge is far from being complete1 without attempting to classify a greater or smaller list of subdivisions1 the appreciation of which would require a prolonged residence in the country4 ,spain is looked upon by the greater number of strangers as a land delivered over to depredation1 and highly insecure4 ,in fact1 it is surprising that such should not be the fate of a country in which instruction is limited1 and where1 as ,i myself have witnessed1 servants may be known to be in the daily practice of stealing without their dismissal being by any means a necessary result4 ,it is surprising1 that in the absence of any strong natural objection to theft1 any honesty should exist in the presence of temptation2 yet ,i know no country where there is more1 if ,i may form an opinion from the individuals of whom ,i have had an opportunity of judging4 ,however1 as an instance of the contradictions one meets with1 the following event was represented as having taken place in one of the provinces in which ,i had received the favourable impression above-mentioned4 ,a ci-devant colonel1 just arrived in ,madrid1 related the fact to me one evening1 on which1 as chance would have it1 ,i found him at supper4 ,immediately on my entering the room he commenced complaining of the lack of silver articles of necessity for the table1 and accounted for it in the following manner4 ,he had recently arrived with his family from a provincial town1 in which he had filled a government situation4 ,shortly before his departure he had invited all his friends to a leave-taking repast2 and after the departure of his guests nearly two dozen articles of plate were missing4 ,in packing up1 ,i observed1 no doubt some dishonest domestic-- ,no1 no1 he interrupted1 they were all pocketed by my guests4 ,that the man in office should have conciliated the attachment of all his acquaintances to such a degree1 as that all should conceive simultaneously the idea of preserving a souvenir of his person1 and that in so delicate and unostentatious a manner1--was not possible4 ,as1 therefore1 ,i still retained my impression of the honesty of the lower classes1 and as the sufferer appeared to treat the occurrence as one by no means extraordinary1 ,i came to the conclusion1 that--either ,spanish integrity1 unlike that of other nations1 must rise in an inverse ratio to men's fortunes and stations2 or that the author of the anecdote had been tempted1 by the desire of masking the 7perhaps unavoidable7 deficiencies in his supper service1 to have recourse to his inventive talent1 at the expense of his absent friends' reputation4 ,i believe it must be allowed that with respect to the disregard of the rights of proprietorship1 of which the lower classes are accused1 there are sufficient instances on record to counterbalance1 in some degree1 my personal experience2 but there is this to be urged in favour of that class of culprits1 where such are met with1 that their mode of operation is far more manly and courageous than that of the depredators of some other climes--by which means they obtain also the full reputation of their misdeeds4 ,there may scarcely be said to be anything mean or degrading in their manner of thieving3 and their system is itself a proof that they see no sin in it4 ,they take to the mountains1 and declare open war against those whom they consider the unjust monopolizers of wealth4 ,instances of this sort are no doubt frequent in ,spain2 in ,toledo they relate that1 some years since1 the passes of ,estremadura were occupied by one of the most formidable and best organized of these bands1 under the orders of a female4 ,various versions were given of this woman's history2 but the one most accredited accounted in the following manner for her having adopted the profession of freebooter4 ,a young lady of rank had disappeared from her family residence1 leaving no trace by which to guide conjecture as to her fate4 ,it was therefore presumed she had been kidnapped4 ,the event1 however1 had already long ceased to be a subject of conversation in the district1 when three or four years after1 a traveller1 who had escaped from an attack of banditti1 announced the fact of their being commanded by a woman4 ,although well disguised1 her voice1 and delicate figure had betrayed her sex4 ,the fact was subsequently confirmed by positive discoveries2 and1 at length1 confiding in the alteration time and her mode of life had produced in her appearance1 she ceased to make a mystery of the circumstance1 and headed the attacks1 mounted usually on a large black horse4 ,her age and beauty coinciding with the description given of the young countess who had disappeared some years previously1 gave rise to the supposition of their identity4 ,the band has been since dispersed1 and many of them captured2 but their chief has contrived to escape1 and it is probable the truth respecting her may never be divulged4 ,it is said she at times exercised more pitiless cruelties than are usually practised by the male chiefs of the regular banditti2 and that1 after such acts1--as though conscience-stricken1--she would1 by way of compensation1 allow parties to pass unmolested4 ,from such instances as these a portion of the ,spanish population must be considered amenable to the charge brought against them2 but there are peculiarities of a different stamp1 which mark the ,spaniards in general1 and are more deserving of notice in a summary of the national characteristic qualities4 ,it is impossible1 for instance1 not to be struck by the intelligence and tact1 independent of cultivation1 which pervade all classes4 ,whether the denizens of these southern climes are indebted to the purity of their atmosphere1 for this gift of rapid perception1 in which they surpass our northern organizations1 or to whatever cause they may owe it2 the fact leads to involuntary speculation on what might have been the results1 in a country so distinguished1 besides1 by its natural advantages1 had the ,arab supremacy lasted until our days4 ,at a period when education was generally held in no estimation in ,europe1 the first care of almost every sovereign of that race was usually directed to the establishment1 or improvement1 of the public schools1 in which the sciences and languages were taught at the royal expense4 ,no town being unprovided with its schools1 it is difficult to imagine to what degree of superiority over the rest of ,europe the continuation of such a system would have raised a people so gifted as to be capable of supplying1 by natural intelligence1 the almost universal absence of information and culture4 ,you continually meet with such instances of uncultivated intelligence as the following4 ,i was occupied in sketching in a retired part of the environs of ,madrid1 when a ragged1 half-naked boy1 not more than ten or eleven years of age1 and employed in watching sheep1 having to pass near me1 stopped to examine my work4 ,he remained for nearly a quarter of an hour perfectly still1 making no movement except that of his eyes1 which continually travelled from the paper to the landscape1 and back from that to the paper4 ,at length1 going away1 he exclaimed1 ,que paciencia1 ,dios mio6 ,the following is an example of the absence of cultivation1 where it might have been expected to exist4 ,a student leaving the university of ,toledo1 at the age of twenty-seven1 told me he had studied there eleven years1 and had that day received his diploma of barrister1 which1 when sent to ,madrid1 where it would be backed by the sanction of the minister1 would authorise him to practise his profession in any town throughout ,spain4 ,in the course of the same conversation1 he asked me whether ,russia was not situated in the ,mediterranean1 and whether ,england did not form a portion of that country4 ,tact and good manners are so universal among the lower classes1 that a more familiar intercourse than we are accustomed to1 can be allowed between persons of different ranks4 ,those of the highest class are seen1 during a journey1 dining at the same table with their servants2 and on all other occasions entering into conversation with them4 ,this intercourse of good nature and good understanding1 universally existing between superiors and inferiors1 and which is never known to degenerate into familiarity1 would preserve ,spain a long time from revolutions of a popular origin--were she left to herself4 ,the ,spaniard of the lowest station has as considerable an idea of his personal consequence as a marquis1 and maintains with his equals all the forms of high breeding4 ,if you stop to listen to the discussions of a knot of ragged children playing at marbles1 you will hear them address each other by the title of ,seor4 ,the urbanity and polish which prevails throughout all classes is genuine1 and the result of good-nature4 ,this is proved by their readiness to render all sorts of services as soon as they are acquainted with you1 and even before2 and that notwithstanding their suspicion and dislike of strangers1 a disposition for which they have ample cause4 ,i don't mean to include services which might incur pecuniary outlay2 it would be something like requesting the loan of the ,highlander's inexpressibles4 ,although even of this a remarkable instance has fallen under my observation1--the capability existing1--but they will spare no trouble nor time3 doubling the value of the obligation by the graceful and earnest manner of rendering it4 ,should your reception by a ,spaniard be marked by coldness1 it is generally to be accounted for by a very excusable feeling4 ,the ,spaniard is usually deeply preoccupied by the unfortunate state of his country4 ,this subject of continual reflection operating on a character singularly proud1 but which is at the same time marked by a large share of modesty1--qualities by no means incompatible1--occasions him a sensation when in presence of a foreigner nearly approaching to suffering4 ,he feels a profound veneration for the former glories of his land1 and admiration of its natural superiority2 but he is distrustful of his modern compatriots1 of whom he has no great opinion4 ,his anxiety is1 therefore1 extreme with regard to the judgment which a ,frenchman or ,englishman may have formed respecting his countrymen and country3 and he is not at his ease until satisfied on that point2 fearing that the backward state of material civilization may be attributed by them to hopeless defects in the national character1 and diminish their respect for his country4 ,he is restored to immediate peace of mind by a delicate compliment1 easily introduced1 on the ancient grandeur of ,spain1 or the eternal splendour of her skies and soil1 and especially by an expression of disapproval of the influence which foreign governments seem desirous of arrogating to themselves over her political destinies4 ,should the stranger delay the application of some such soothing balm1 he will not hesitate to provoke it1 by ingeniously leading the conversation in the direction he wishes1 and then heaping abuse and censure on his compatriots4 ,the interference of foreign governments in their politics is1 in fact1 one of the consequences of the present national inferiority1 the most galling to their feelings4 ,this is accounted for by the high independence1 which is one of the principal features of their character1 and is observable in the most insignificant events of their daily life4 ,the practice which prevails in some countries1 of meddling each with his 7and even her7 neighbour's concerns1 and of heaping vituperation where a man's conduct or opinions differ from his who speaks1 is one of the most repugnant to the ,spanish nature4 ,if a ,spaniard hears such a conversation1 he stares vacantly1 as though he comprehended nothing2 and the natural expression traceable on not a few countenances and attitudes may be translated1 ,i don't interfere in your affairs1 pray don't trouble yourself about mine4 ,it is curious to trace this in their favourite sayings1 or proverbs 7refrans71 by which the national peculiarities of character are admirably depicted4 ,of these no people possess so complete a collection4 ,the following is one which expresses the feeling to which ,i allude3 ,el ,marques de ,santa ,cruz hiz ,un palacio en el ,viso3 ,porque pud1 y porque quis4 or1 translated1 ,what could induce ,sir ,santa ,cruz to ,build a house the ,viso close to8 --,he had the money1 and he chose to4 ,i place1 in the translation1 the edifice close to the ,viso1 instead of upon it1 as in the original text4 ,i doubt whether any apology is necessary for this poetical licence1 by which the intention of the proverb undergoes no alteration4 ,it is true1 a house may be close to a hill without being erected upon it2 but if1 as in this instance1 it is on the top of the hill1 it is most certainly close to it likewise4 ,the submission of the ,spaniards to the despotism of etiquette and custom in trifles1 does not 7otherwise than apparently7 constitute a contradiction to this independence of character4 ,however that may be1 the breach of all other laws meets with easier pardon1 than that of the laws of custom4 ,this code is made up of an infinity of minute observances1 many of which escape the notice of a foreigner1 until accustomed by degrees to the manners of those who surround him4 ,he will not1 for instance1 discover1 until he has made himself some few temporary enemies1 that no greater insult can be offered to a person of rank1 or in authority1 than saluting him in a cloak embozado--the extremity thrown over the shoulder4--,a similar neglect is not pardoned either by the fair sex4 ,the minutest peculiarities in dress are observed1 and if at all discordant with the received mode of the day1 incur universal blame4 ,the situation of a stranger is1 in fact1 at first scarcely agreeable in a country in which the smallest divergence from established customs attracts general attention and criticism4 ,this does not1 however1 interfere with the ready good-nature and disposition to oblige met with1 as ,i said before1 on all occasions4 ,in some instances the attachment to external forms operates advantageously4 ,such is that of the picturesque practice prevailing in many of the provinces1 of assuming the quality of the ,beata4 ,in ,toledo1 certain peculiarities in the toilette of one of a group of young ladies attracted my curiosity4 ,she was apparently about seventeen2 pretty1 but by no means remarkably so for a ,spaniard1 and appeared to be in deep mourning4 ,whenever1 in speaking1 a movement of her right hand and arm lifted up her mantilla1 a japanned leather sash was exposed to view1 of about two inches in width1 an end of which hanging from the right side1 reached rather lower than the knee4 ,on the right sleeve1 half-way between the shoulder and the elbow1 was fixed a small silver plate1 called an escudo1 and a rosary was worn round her neck4 ,i was informed1 on inquiry1 that she was una beata2 and being still in the dark1 my informant related her story4 ,he commenced by the inquiry1 whether ,i had heard of a young man being drowned four months previously in the ,tagus4 ,i replied that ,i had heard of thirty or forty2 for he referred to the bathing season1 during which1 as the river is sown with pits and precipices1 and unprovided with humane societies1 accidents occur every day4 ,he then named the victim1 of whose death ,i had in fact heard4 ,he was a youth of the age of twenty1 and the novio 7intended7 of the young lady in black4 ,on hearing suddenly1 and without preparation1 the fatal news1 she had been seized with a profuse vomiting of blood1 and had continued dangerously ill during several weeks4 ,she was now convalescent1 and had made her appearance in society for the first time4 ,my informant added1 on my repeating the inquiry respecting the costume1 that it is the custom for a young lady1 on recovering from a serious illness1 to offer herself to the ,virgen de los dolores2 the external sign of the vow consisting in the adoption of a dress similar to that worn by the ,virgin in the churches4 ,the obligation assumed lasts generally during a year2 although some retain the dress for the remainder of their life4 ,examples are known of this practice among the other sex2 in which case the costume is that of a ,franciscan friar2 but the beato becomes the object of ridicule4 ,among the forms of society to which especial importance is attached are the ceremonies and duration of mourning for relations4 ,the friends of the nearest relative1--especially if a lady1--of a person newly deceased1 assemble day after day for a considerable time in her house4 ,all are in full dress of deep mourning2 and the victim of sorrow and society is expected to maintain a continual outpouring of sighs and tears1 while she listens to each consoler in turn4 ,much importance is attached to the display of the usual appearances of grief1 even when the circumstances of the case do not necessarily call for it4 ,happening to enter a house in which news had been received of the death of a relative1 who resided in another part of ,spain1 ,i found the lady of the house discussing with a friend the form of her new mourning dress4 ,struck by the melancholy expression of her countenance1 and the redness of her eyes1 ,i inquired whether any bad news had been received4 ,my question gave rise to a renewed flood of tears2 ,yes1 yes1 was the reply2 ,i have had terrible news2 my poor uncle1 who had been afflicted for years with dropsy1 died only six days ago4 ,i expressed my sincere regret at so sad an event1 while she continued her explanations to the other lady4 ,i understand1 she said1 in a voice almost suffocated1 that this sleeve is no longer to be--drawn in2 and the--front1 according to the last--,french--fashion1--is at least an inch--shorter4 ,taking the opportunity of the first moment of silence1 ,i asked for some further details respecting this beloved uncle4 ,it was your ,seora mother's brother1 ,i believe8 ,no1 no1 the husband of my aunt3 and what--do you--think of the--mantilla8 ,after the reply of the other visitor to the latter question1 ,i continued1--,but your profound regret1 on occasion of the loss of so amiable a companion1 is natural4 ,terrible1 sir1 yes--my poor uncle6 ,had you seen him shortly before the sad event8 ,alas6 no1 sir1 ,i never--saw him but--once in my life2 and--should not now have recognized him--for ,i--was then--only five years old4 ,the ,spaniards are not a dinner-giving nation2 obedient1 as some suppose1 to their proverb1--which although the effect1 may also operate as a cause1--namely1 ',feasts are given by fools1 and partaken of by wise men4 ,this proverb1 however1 paints the national character with less fidelity than most others2 the parsimonious selfishness it implies is not ,spanish4 ,sufficient reasons exist to account for the rarity of dinner invitations4 ,although the ,english are not responsible for the geniality of climate1 which corks up their crystallized souls to be enclosed fog-tight1 until released by a symbolical ceremony of the popping of champagne corks1--it is not the less true that dinners are their only introductions to acquaintanceship4 ,spaniards have corks also1 and well worth the trouble of drawing1 as well as all the other materiel of conviviality2 but they despise it1 finding the expansion operated by their sunshine more complete and less laborious4 ,their sociability no more requires dinner parties than their aloes hedges do steam-pipes4 ,with the exception of their ungovernable passion for cold water1 their sobriety is extreme2 and this may perhaps unite with a dislike to social ostentation in resisting the exotic fashion of dinners4 ,but bring a good letter of introduction to a ,spaniard1 and you will find a daily place at a well-supplied table1 the frequent occupation of which will give unmistakable pleasure4 ,in such case you are looked for as a daily visitor2 not ceremoniously1 but as using the house when in want of a more cheerful home than your posada4 olus has not yet been appointed here the arbiter of smiles1#i and your entrance is always the signal for the same animated welcome4 ,the only variation will be a good-natured remonstrance1 should your visits have undergone any interruption4 ,to return to my route4 ,aware of the inconvenience of ,spanish inland travelling1 and with ,seville for my object1 ,i proceeded to ,lyon4 ,nor had ,i long to wait for the reward attendant on my choice of route4 ,getting on board the steam-packet at six o'clock on an autumn morning1 ,i experienced at first some discouragement1 from the fog1 which ,i had not reflected was the natural--or rather unnatural--atmosphere of that most discouraging of all places1 a prosperous manufacturing town4 ,no sooner1 however1 had we escaped1 by the aid of high-pressure steam1 from these deleterious influences1 than our way gradually opened before us1 rather dimly at first1 but more and more clear as the sun attained height3 the banks of the ,rhone having1 during this time1 been progressing also in elevation and grandeur1 by eight o'clock we were enjoying a rapidly moving panorama of superb scenery4 ,this day's journey turned out unusually auspicious4 ,owing to some favourable combination of celestial influences1 7although ,i perceived no one on board likely to have an astrologer in his pay17 no untoward accident--so common on this line--befell us4 ,no stoppages--no running down of barges1 nor running foul of bridges--nor bursting of engines4 ,the stream was neither too shallow1 nor too full1 so that we were preserved both from running aground1 and from being run away with4 ,our boat was the fastest of the six which started at the same time2 and one is never ill-disposed by a speed of eighteen miles an hour1 although it may be acquired at an imminent risk of explosion4 ,there is many a day's journey of equal or greater beauty than the descent of the ,rhone2 but ,i know of none which operates a more singular effect on the senses4 ,it is that of being transported by a leap from the north to the south of ,europe4 ,the ,rhone valley1 in fine weather1 enjoys a southern climate1 while all the region to the north of ,lyon is marked by the characteristics of the more northern provinces4 ,that town itself1 with its smoke1 its gloom1 and its dirt1 maintains itself at the latitude of ,manchester2 whose excellent money-making inhabitants1 if thrown in the way of a party of ,lyonnais1 would scarcely feel themselves among strangers1 so complete would be the similarity of habits and manners4 ,the transition1 therefore1 to those wafted down the sunny valley of the ,rhone1 is as theatrical as the scenery itself1 but with the agreeable addition of reality4 ,every surrounding object contributes to the magic of the change4 ,taking leave of a bare and treeless country1 and its consequently rough and ungenial climate1 which1 in its turn1 will necessarily exercise its influence on the character of the population1 you find yourself gliding between vine-clad mountains1 not black and rugged like those of the ,rhine1 but soft and rosy1 and lighted by a sky1 which begins here to assume a southern brilliancy4 ,the influence of the lighter atmosphere first begins to be felt1 expanding the organs1 and filling the frame with a sensation1 unknown to more northern climes1 of pleasure derived from mere existence4 ,then the language you hear on all sides is new and musical2 for the crew of the steamer is ,provenal1 and their patois falls on the ear with something approaching the soft accent of ,italy2 while their expressive eyes1 sunburnt faces1 and a certain mixture of animation and languor--the exact counterpart of the phlegmatic industry of the north1 complete the scene1 with which they are in perfect harmony4 ,a propos of harmony1 when the sailors' dinner hour arrived1 they were summoned by an air of ,rossini1 played on a bugle2 the performer--one of their number--having first thrown himself flat on the deck1 in the attitude of a ,turk about to receive the bastinado1 and then raising his chest1 by the aid of his two elbows1 to the height required for the inflation of the instrument4 ,nor is this leap from north to south so purely imaginary1 since the boat ,sirius1 aided by the furious current1 actually paddled at the rate of from seventeen to eighteen miles an hour2 and we reached ,avignon at sunset1 about five o'clock4 ,the distance being calculated1 allowing for the windings of the river1 will verify the rate maintained during the day4 ,notwithstanding the odious nature of comparisons1 ,i could not help forming that between this river and the ,rhine1 and giving the preference to the first4 ,the bold though gloomy precipices of the ,rhine yield1 in point of charm1 to the more open expanse of the ,rhone valley1 and the larger scale of the scenery1 especially when the far more brilliant lighting-up is considered4 ,nor does the ,rhone yield to its rival1 in regard to the picturesque form and position of its castles and other buildings2 while its greater width1 and handsome bridges1 add an additional feature4 ,the best scene of the day1 and a fit climax for its termination1 was the approach to ,avignon at sunset1--a superb ,claude4 ,a turn of the river placed the castle--an immense mass crowning the city1 and presenting an irregular outline--directly between us and the sun1 the sky doing away1 by its brightness1 with all the details of the landscape4 ,the principal objects were1 the broad expanse of water1 and the mass of deep purple1 tracing its dark but soft outline on the blaze of gold at its back4 ,on turning to look in the opposite direction1 a scene equally striking presented itself4 ,the mountains between which we had been winding during the last half of the day1 are1 from this point of view1 ranged in an immense semicircle1 extending round half the horizon1 and at that moment were tinged by the sun with a bright rose colour1 while they scarcely appeared at half their actual distance4 ,it looked like the final scene of an arial ballet1 when a semicircle is formed by the rosy sylphs who have figured during the representation4 ,after the hurly burly of debarkation at ,avignon1 and forcing our way through the army of luggage porters--a ferocious race1 notorious1 at this place1 for the energy1 amounting often to violence1 with which they urge the acceptance of their kind offices--the picturesque look of the place1 and the necessary hour of waiting for dinner1 led me to a scene1 which ,i accepted as a satisfactory greeting on my arrival in the land of the troubadours4 ,a group of half a dozen labourers1 returned from their day's work1 were lolling in every variety of attitude1 on some large stones placed in front of the chteau4 ,they were singing--and with perfect precision of ensemble--each his part of the chorus4 ,at the conclusion of every morceau1 the whole party made the faade of the ancient palace echo with peals of laughter2 after which they all talked at once1 until they had agreed on the choice of the succeeding air4 ,the castle of ,avignon--ancient residence of the ,popes1 shelters now a different sort of inmates4 ,it serves for barracks for a regiment of infantry4 ,at this moment the lamplighter had completed his rounds in the interior1 and given to each of the innumerable windows an undue importance in the architectural effect of the mass4 ,such is the irregularity of their distribution over this vast faade--or such it appeared to be then1 for ,i have not seen it by daylight--as to give them the appearance of having been thrown at it by handfuls1 and fixed themselves each at its first point of contact with the wall4 ,or by way of compensation for the extravagant supposition of so large a hand1 we can suppose the edifice diminished1 and resembling with its jagged outline1 a ragged black cloak1 which1 having been stretched out1 to serve as a mark for rifle-shooters1 would admit the light through openings not less symmetrically distributed than these windows4 ,between ,avignon and ,marseille1 by the land route1 the only spot of interest is ,aix4 ,it is a well placed little town2 although1 in the summer1 its position must procure for it rather too much warmth4 ,there are no remains of king ,rn's palace2 nor could ,i learn that any souvenir of him was extant1 with the exception of a statue1 which represents the jovial old king of the trouvres in the character of ,bacchus4 ,this figure ornaments a hot fountain1 situated at the head of the wide street1 planted with trees1 by which the town is entered4 ,,letter ,,xvi4 ,,voyage ,,to ,,gibraltar4 ,cadiz4 ,i have just returned from a visit to the signal-tower--the highest look-out in ,cadiz2 from which is seen a panorama equalled by few in ,europe4 ,the ,atlantic1 and its coast down to ,trafalgar ,cape--the mountain distances of the ,ronda--and ,medina ,sidonia on its sugar-loaf rock1 like an advanced sentinel--all ,cadiz1 with its hundreds of white ,belvideres--and the bright blue bay1 decked with glittering white towns1 and looking 7but with more sparkling glow7 like an enormous turquoise set round with pearls4 ,but let not1 ,i entreat you1 these magic words--,cadiz--,andalucia--raise your expectations unduly2 lest they be disappointed1 on rinding that ,i fail in doing justice to this charming country4 ,with regard to this town1 not only would it be a task beyond my powers to paint its bright aspect and to give you a sufficiently glowing description of its pleasures4 ,it is not even my intention to partake of these--being bent on accomplishing my principal object--the exploration of the monuments of ,seville4 ,however let us not anticipate4 ,you ought to have had news of me from ,gibraltar1 where ,i made a much longer stay than ,i had intended1 owing to an unexpected meeting with an old friend4 ,the fact is1 ,i put off writing until ,i should again be in movement1 hoping that my letters might thus acquire greater interest4 ,i will resume my journey from ,france1 in which country we parted4 ,the steam-packets leave ,marseille for the south of ,spain every tenth day2 and ,i happened to arrive a day or two after one of the departures4 ,rather than wait eight days1 therefore1 ,i agreed for my passage on board a trader bound for ,gibraltar2 by which arrangement1 as the captain assured me that the voyage would only occupy five days1 ,i was to be at my journey's end before the departure of the ,phnicien1 as the steam-packet was called4 ,the latter1 moreover1 made no progress excepting during the night1 in order to afford the passengers an opportunity of passing each day in some town2 and being anxious to arrive at ,seville1 ,i should not have liked the delays thus occasioned4 ,i do not1 however1 recommend the adoption of my plan2 for the five days1 as it turned out1 became twenty-four1 and the ,phnicien arrived at ,cadiz long before ,i reached ,gibraltar4 ,the captain's prognostic of course supposed a favourable voyage2 and ,i was wrong in reckoning on this1 particularly at the time of year1 and in the ,mediterranean4 ,i was wrong1 also1 in confiding in my ,provenal captain1 who1 in addition to various other bad qualities1 turned out to be the most inept blockhead to whom ever were entrusted lives and cargoes4 ,my fellow-passengers consisted of a ,marseille merchant1 who possessed a trading establishment at ,gibraltar2 a young ,french officer1 on leave of absence to visit his mother1 who was ,spanish2 and a ,moorish traveller1 proceeding homeward to ,tetuan4 ,from certain hints dropped by the merchant1 who was well acquainted with the passage1 we soon learned the probable character of our captain1 as he belonged to a race not very favourably spoken of by those whose goods and persons they were in the habit of conveying2 and these predictions being soon partially confirmed by the man's incivility1 we began to look upon him as our common enemy4 ,one of the accusations brought against his class was1 a disposition to reduce the supply of provisions within undue limits4 ,this1 however1 we could not lay to his charge1 as the adverse winds rendered necessary an extreme prudence in our daily consumption4 ,my principal anxiety arose from want of confidence in the capacity of the man for the performance of his duties as a seaman4 ,this anxiety was grounded on various symptoms sufficiently striking to attract the notice even of a landsman2 and more particularly on a scene1 during which his presence of mind1 if mind he possessed1 totally deserted him4 ,we had passed several days off the ,balearic ,islands--or rather on and off--for each morning we issued from behind ,ivica1 and returned at night to take shelter under its cliffs2 ours being the only vessel of several performing the same passage restrained by fear from attempting any progress during these nights4 ,the reason of this we learned subsequently4 ,at length1 when we did risk an advance1 we chose the worst moment of all3 the breeze becoming a gale1 and almost a head-wind1 from having been less unfavourable4 ,whatever may now have been our anxiety1 we could easily discover that the author of our misfortune was a prey to more terror than ourselves4 ,against this wind we proceeded1 gaining about a hundred yards an hour1 during five days2 at the end of which it changed slightly1 and allowed us to reach the entrance of the channel2 that is1 we had doubled the ,cape de ,gata1 and were off the south coast of the peninsula1 nearly opposite ,almeria1 and in the direct line of all the vessels entering the ,mediterranean2 which1 as they are sometimes delayed in expectation of a favourable wind for passing the ,straits of ,gibraltar1 were now bearing down in great numbers4 ,at this crisis the gale1 which had all along continued to be violent1 became once more almost directly adverse1 and increased in fury4 ,our gallant captain's features always assumed towards evening a more serious expression4 ,a faint tinge of green was observed to replace the yellow of his usual complexion1 and he passed the nights on deck1 as unapproachable as a hyena--by the way1 also a most cowardly animal4 ,at length one day as evening approached1 the wind was almost doing its worst1 and we went to bed tossed about as if in a walnut-shell--lulled by an incessant roaring1 as it were1 of parks of ,perkin's artillery4 ,it being essential to keep a good look-out1 and to show a light occasionally1 in order to avoid being run down--the lantern--unable to live on deck1 from the water as well as the wind1 which passed through the rigging--was confided to the passengers1 with a recommendation1 by no means likely to be neglected1 to keep it in good trim1 and to hand it up with promptitude when called for4 ,at about twelve o'clock1 sure enough1 the call was heard1 in the somewhat agitated tones of the captain4 ,the passenger1 whose business it was1 for we took the watch each in his turn--immediately jumped up and handed up the lantern4 ,thinking this sufficient1 we remained as we were2 but in less than a minute1 it was brought back extinguished1 and thrown down into the cabin4 ,immediately after a general view holloa was audible above the roar of the storm1 and the mate's voice was heard at the top of our staircase1 begging us to get up as we were going to be run down4 ,we now lost no time in making our way to the deck2 no one speaking a word1 but each waiting for his turn to mount4 ,being furthest from the staircase1 or rather ladder1 ,i arrived the last4 ,on reaching the deck1 ,i was met by about a ton of salt water1 which appeared to have mistaken me for a wicket1 as it came in as solid a mass1 and with about the same impulse as a cricket ball4 ,finding ,i was not to be dashed back again down stairs1 it took the opportunity of half filling the cabin1 the door of which ,i had not thought of shutting4 ,on recovering my breath and reopening my eyes1 ,i discerned1 by aid of the white bed-apparel of my fellow passengers1 a dim crowd1 pressed together at the bow of the vessel1 consisting of all the inhabitants of the frail tenement1 excepting the steersman and myself4 ,i rushed forward2 but finding my voice insufficient to add any effect to the cry which had been set up1 to give notice to the crew of the approaching vessel1 ,i made for the side1 which ,i saw1 by the position of the group1 was threatened with the expected contact2 and catching at a rope ladder1 placed myself on the top of the bulwarks1 resolved on trying a jump as the only chance of escape in case of meeting4 ,there was now time to examine our situation perfectly well4 ,i looked towards the stern1 and could see that the helm was not deserted3 but it was of no avail to save us from the danger2 since1 sailing as near the wind as we could1 as far as ,i understood the subsequent explanation of the sailors1 we could not change our direction on a sudden1 otherwise than by turning a sort of right-about-face4 ,we went on1 therefore1 trusting that the other crew would hear the cry1 and discover our position in time4 ,the night being extremely dark1 and the sea running high1 the approaching vessel was scarcely visible to us when first pointed out by the sailors2 still less should ,i have looked forward to its threatening us with any danger2 but the eye of experience had not been deceived1 and from my perch ,i was soon able to discover1 as each passage over the summit of a wave brought the dark mass against the sky1 that its approach was rapid1 and directed with unerring precision1 so as to cross our course at the fatal moment4 ,she was scudding before the gale1 with almost all her sails set1 and consequently1 on striking our ship1 nothing could save us from an instantaneous founder4 ,at each successive appearance the mass became larger and blacker2 but the cry of our crew1 in which ,i now joined1 never ceased4 ,at length we were only separated by the ascent of one wave1 at the summit of which was balanced the huge bulk of our antagonist1 while we were far below the level of her keel--but her steersman had heard the cry2 for at the moment when certainly no hope of saving--at least our ship1 remained to any of us1 we saw the other swerve as she descended--and after approaching to within half her length of our starboard bow1 she glided by at the distance of a yard from where ,i was standing4 ,i now drew a deep breath before ,i jumped down on to the deck2 after which1 beginning to perceive that ,i was as wet as if we had been run down1 ,i was hastening to the cabin1 when my progress was stopped by the captain1 who1 without perceiving any one1 was stamping up and down the centre of the vessel1 and actually tearing his hair with both his hands4 ,i paused to observe this tragic performance1 which shortly gave place to an indistinct and much interrupted speech1 in which1 in the intervals left by all the oaths as yet invented in the ,french and ,languedoc tongues1 there could be distinguished dark threats of vengeance1 addressed to the captain of the large brig1 whom he was to discover without fail on his return to ,marseille4 ,all the passengers now descended to the cabin1 and having stripped and rolled myself in my cloak turned inside out1 ,i threw myself on my couch4 ,we were now1 in spite of recent experience1 provided with a fresh lighted lantern1 to be produced on the next call4 ,this we took care still to look to1 although we hardly expected more than one such chance in one night4 ,it was past two1 and we had scarcely left off discussing our narrow escape1 when another rapid and significant demand for the lantern announced a second peril4 ,on this occasion ,i took my time1 for ,i had reflected on the odds1 which were immense1 against our being a second time so exactly in any one's way1 where there was room for the whole navigation of the world to pass abreast4 ,nor could ,i suspect any of my fellow-passengers of being the unlucky ,jonas of our misfortunes2 although the ,moor was looked upon by some of the sailors with a suspicious eye1 for not consenting to partake of a leg of chicken1 if the animal had been killed and cooked by any other hand than his own1 and for the mysterious formalities they accused him of observing in killing his poultry2 such as turning his face in a particular direction1 and requiring the blood to flow in a particular manner--on failure of which last requisite1 he threw the fowl overboard4 ,these things alarmed the sailors1 but helped1 on the contrary1 to encourage me2 as ,i thought the man's being possessed of a conscience and religious scruples1 rather1 if any thing1 an additional safeguard for us4 ,this time1 therefore1 ,i drew on my boots and trowsers2 and1 wrapped in my cloak1 proceeded in company with the ,moor1 who had taken it as leisurely as myself1 to join the party on deck4 ,they had kept the lantern in a safe position until the moment it would have the best chance of taking effect1 a proper precaution1 as it was likely to be so short-lived4 ,and at the moment ,i arrived the order was being given to shew it ahead4 ,a sailor took it1 and before he could reach the bow of the vessel1 a wave broke over him and washed his lantern fairly into the sea4 ,upon this the captain said not a word1 but running to the helm1 took it in hand1 and turned the ship right round1 presenting her stern to the wind1 and to the approaching vessel1--which we now soon lost sight of1 as we were not a slow sailing craft in a fair wind4 ,having performed this masterly feat1 and given orders that no change should be made in any respect1 he went to bed2 muttering as he left the deck various indistinct sounds between his teeth4 ,the next morning we had undone nearly all our six day's work1 and before evening of the following day1 had returned to within sight of ,cape ,st4 ,martin near ,valencia4 ,it was now a fortnight since we had quitted ,marseille1 and we were nearly half-way to our place of destination2 but ,neptune took pity on us1 and having given the usual scolding to ,eolus1 we were allowed to resume our course1 although not at as good a rate as we could have wished4 ,the tempest had ceased1 and by means of a feeble but fair wind which succeeded1 we regained in three days and nights almost all our lost way1 and were on the point of doubling the ,cape ,gata4 ,here we remained stationary in a dead calm during another three days1 after which an almost imperceptible movement in the air in the wished-for direction bore us to within sight of ,gibraltar4 ,this progress along the southern coast lasted three days more1 and introduced me to the climate of ,andalucia4 ,at the end of ,november it was still a splendid summer--but with just sufficient air to prevent our suffering from the heat4 ,the blue ,mediterranean at length vindicated her fair fame1 and proved that one of her smiles had the power of throwing oblivion over all the harm of which she was capable during her moments of fretfulness4 ,as you will easily imagine1 ,i passed these delicious days1 and nearly the entire nights on deck4 ,our view consisted of the magnificent precipices which terminate1 at the shore1 the ,alpuxarras chain of mountains4 ,these are coloured with the various tints peculiar to the ores and marbles of which they are formed2 and now showed us all their details1 although we never approached within twenty-five miles off shore4 ,the purity of the atmosphere added to their great elevation1 gave them the appearance of being only four or five miles distant4 ,the only means of proving the illusion consisted in directing the telescope along the line of apparent demarcation between the sea and the rock1 when the positions of the different towns situated on the shore were indicated only by the tops of their towers4 ,among others1 the tower of ,malaga ,cathedral appeared to rise solitarily from the water1 the church and town being hidden by the convexity of the sea's surface4 ,with the bright blue sea for a foreground1 varied by continually passing sails1 these superb cliffs formed the second plan of the picture2 while over them towered the ,granada mountains of the ,sierra ,nevada1 cutting their gigantic outlines of glittering snow out of the dark blue of the sky1 at a distance of twenty leagues4 ,the evenings more particularly possessed a charm1 difficult to be understood by the thousands of our fellow creatures1 unable to kill that fragment of time without the aid of constellations of wax-lights1 and sparkling toilettes1--not to mention the bright sparks which conversation sometimes1 but not always1 sprinkles o'er the scene4 ,now ,i do not pretend to speak with disrespect of soires1 nor even of balls or ra-outes1 as our neighbours say2 ,polka forfend ,i should blaspheme her deity1 depreciate her loudly laudable energies1 or apostrophize her strangely muscular hamstrings6 ,i only maintain that a night passed at sea1 off the southern ,spanish coast in fine weather1 does not yield to the best of nights4 ,the observation of the land1 of the passing sails1 and the management of our own1 and the various phenomena of sea and sky1 having gradually yielded to sunset and twilight--and these in their turn leaving the vessel to its solitude1 conversation became amusing between people of such different origin1 habits1 and ideas1 brought together by chance1 drawn nearer to each other by the force of circumstances1 and by having partaken of the same buffetings4 ,the ,moor would then offer a cup of his coffee1 or rather1 according to the ,oriental custom1 a thimbleful of his quintessence of that exquisite berry4 ,our ,french ensign was a tolerable musician1 and was easily prevailed on to unpack his cornet--piston1 and to astonish the solitude of the night1 and the denizens of the deep1 by the execution of the favourite airs of ,auber and ,halevy4 ,sometimes a bark too distant to be visible would hail us on hearing these unusual strains2 and faint sounds of applause would arrive as if from wandering naiads4 ,at length one afternoon brought us in sight of ,gibraltar4 ,and now1 lest we should arrive without further mishap1 our precious ,provenal took care to give us a parting proof of his incapacity1--which however1 thanks to our good fortune1 did not bring upon us the annoyance it threatened4 ,the rock of ,gibraltar was before us the whole of the following day2 but there appeared also in sight1 somewhat to its left1 and at a much greater distance1 a sort of double mountain1 apparently divided from the middle upwards by a wedge-formed cleft4 ,the captain replied to all questions by describing this object as consisting of two distinct mountains1 which he pronounced to be no others than the two ,pillars of ,hercules1--promising us that the next morning we should see them separated by the entire width of the ,straits4 ,far from suspecting the authenticity of this explanation1 ,i innocently inquired what was the large rock 7,gibraltar itself7 apparently much nearer to us4 ,oh6 he replied1 it was some promontory on the coast of ,andalucia1 the name of which had escaped his memory2 adding that we steered very slightly to the left of the said rock1 because the wind having increased1 and blowing off shore1 we could not make ,gibraltar otherwise than by keeping well into the shore1 to prevent our being driven towards ,africa4 ,all this about the wind was so true1 that had we preserved to the last the direction we were then following1 we must inevitably have gone to ,africa1 and added a day and a night to our voyage4 ,the ,marseille merchant1 who had made the voyage twenty times1 listened to all this2 but although very intelligent on most subjects1 and more particularly with regard to the qualities and value of silks and quincaillerie1 his notions of practical geography had not probably attained any great development1 as he appeared perfectly satisfied4 ,i therefore passed the day and retired that night filled with curiosity respecting this remarkable promontory1 that had escaped the notice of ,arrowsmith and the continental geographers4 ,the following morning1 to my extreme astonishment1 the double mountain was still as undivided as ever1 notwithstanding our having approached so near to the great rock as to distinguish its colour1 and the details of its surface4 ,we were still steering so as to leave it behind us4 ,i now began to suspect something was wrong2 and getting hold of the merchant1 proceeded to question him closely1 recalling to his recollection the captain's explanation of the previous day1 and the consequent miraculous union of ,gibraltar with the mountain of the monkies1 to accomplish which the former must have quitted ,europe subsequently to the publication of the last newspapers we had seen at ,marseille4 ,his replying that he certainly thought the great rock put him in mind of ,gibraltar confirmed my suppositions2 and ,i prevailed upon him to repeat his opinion to the ignoramus1 who was peaceably eating his breakfast on the bulwarks of the quarter-deck4 ,we went to him instantly1 and on hearing the remark1 he merely observed that it was very possible2 and leaving his sausage1 quietly proceeded to the helm1 which he no more quitted until we were in the bay at four in the afternoon4 ,we had only lost about five or six hours by the blunder2 but had we continued the same course another half-hour1 we could not possibly have made ,gibraltar that day4 ,it was with more than the ordinary excitement of the organ of travelling1--for if phrenology deserves to be called a science1 such an organ must exist1--that ,i approached this great ,leviathan of the seas2 perhaps1 all causes considered1 the most remarkable object in ,europe4 ,during the approach the interest is absorbing2 and the two or three hours employed in passing round the extremity of the rock1 and stretching sufficiently far into the ,straits1 to gain wind and channel for entering the bay1 slipped away more rapidly than many a ten minutes ,i could have called to my recollection4 ,the simultaneous view of ,europe and ,africa2 the eventful positions with which you are surrounded1--,tarifa1 ,algeciras1 and further on ,trafalgar2 the very depths beneath you too shallow for the recollections which crowd into this limited space2 commencing with history so ancient as to have attained the rank of fable1--and heroes long since promoted to demi-gods2 and reaching to the passage of the injured ,florinda1 so quickly responded to by that of ,tharig1 followed by a hundred ,arab fleets4 ,the shipping of all nations continually diverting the attention from these souvenirs2 and1 crowning all1 the stupendous mass of the now impregnable rock4 ,amidst all this1 ,i could not drive from my thoughts the simple and patriotic old ,spanish historian de ,pisa1 and the operation to which he attributes the origin of this mountain4 ,from him may be learned all the details respecting this work of ,hercules2 as to which1 as well as to the motives of its fabricator1 the poets of antiquity were in the dark4 ,hercules had been induced1 by the high reputation of ,spain1 of her population1 and her various natural advantages1 to conduct thither an army for the purpose of taking possession of the country4 ,after having put his project in execution1 he remained in ,spain1 and enjoyed a long and prosperous reign4 ,the victory1 which gave him possession of the country1 took place at ,tarifa2 and it was in its commemoration and honour that before he established the seat of government at ,toledo1 he assembled the conquered population1 and compelled them to throw stones into the sea1 by which means1 in a short time1 this monument was completed4 ,before we set foot on this imperceptible trophy of a league in length by two thousand feet high the ,french ensign and myself hailed a steamer as we passed by her in the offing1 and found she was bound for ,cadiz1 and we must go on board the following afternoon4 ,on landing1 however1 my projects underwent a change1 as ,i told you at the commencement of my letter4 ,there is not much to be seen at ,gibraltar that would interest you1 except indeed the unique aspect and situation of the place4 ,to military men its details offer much interest4 ,there is a large public garden on the side of the mountain1 between the town1 which occupies the inmost extremity1 and the ,governor's house near the entrance of the bay4 ,the batteries constructed in the rock are extremely curious1 and calculated to embarrass an enemy whose object should be to dismount them4 ,i thought1 however1 with deference to those conversant with these subjects1 that they were likely to possess an inconvenience--that of exposing to suffocation the gunners employed in the caverns1 out of which there does not appear to exist sufficient means of escape for the smoke4 ,the most amusing sight in ,gibraltar is the principal street1 filled1 as it is1 with an infinitely varied population4 ,here you see1 crowded together as in a fair1 and distinguished by their various costumes1--the representatives of ,europe1 ,asia1 and ,africa1--,arabs1 ,moors1 ,italians1 ,turks1 ,greeks1 ,russians1 ,english1 and ,spaniards1 ,jews1 and1 occasionally1 a holy friar conversing with some ,don ,basilio1 appearing1 in his long cylindrical hat1 as if blessed with a skull sufficiently hard to have entered the side of a tin chimney-top1 precipitated upon it by a gust of wind4 ,among all these a successful guess may here and there be risked at the identity of the ,andalucian leader of banditti1 lounging about in search of useful information4 ,the contrabandistas are likewise in great plenty4 ,,letter ,,xvii4 ,,cadiz4 ,,arrival ,,at ,,seville4 ,seville4 ,cadiz is the last town in ,europe ,i should select for a residence1 had ,i the misfortune to become blind4 ,one ought to be all eyes there4 ,it is the prettiest of towns4 ,after this there is no more to be said1 with regard1 at least1 to its external peculiarities4 ,it possesses no prominent objects of curiosity4 ,there is1 it is true1 a tradition stating it to have possessed a temple dedicated to ,hercules2 but this has been washed away by the waves of the ocean1 as its rites have been by the influx of succeeding populations4 ,nothing can be more remote from the ideas of the visitor to ,cadiz1 than the existence of anything antique2 unless it be the inclination to prosecute such researches3 the whole place is so bright and modern looking1 and pretty in a manner peculiar to itself1 and unlike any other town1--since1 like everything else in ,spain1 beauty also has its originality4 ,nothing can be gayer than the perspective of one of the straight1 narrow streets4 ,on either side of the blue ribbon of sky1 which separates the summits of its lofty houses1 is seen a confusion of balconies1 and projecting box-windows1--all placed irregularly--each house possessing only one or two1 so as not to interfere with each other's view1 and some placed on a lower story1 others on a higher2 their yellow or green hues relieving the glittering white of the faades4 ,nor could anything improve the elegant effect of the architectural ornaments1 consisting of pilasters1 vases1 and sculpture beneath the balconies1 still less1 the animated faces--the prettiest of all ,spain1 after those of ,malaga--whose owners shew a preference to the projecting windows1 wherever a drawing-room or boudoir possesses one4 ,the pavement of these elegant little streets1 is not out of keeping with the rest4 ,it would be a sacrilege to introduce a cart or carriage into them4 ,a lady may1 and often does1 traverse the whole town on foot1 on her way to a ball4 ,it is a town built as if for the celebration of a continual carnival4 ,nor does the charge brought against the ,gaditanas1 of devotion to pleasure1 cause any surprise3 were they not1 they would be misplaced in ,cadiz4 ,hither should the victim of spleen and melancholy direct his steps4 ,let him choose the season of the carnival4 ,there is reason to suspect that the advertiser in the ,herald had this remedy in view1 when he promised a certain cure to clergymen and noblemen1 who suffer from blushing and despondency1 delusion1 thoughts of self-injury1 and groundless fear3 these symptoms being indications of an attack of that northern epidemy1 which takes its name from a class of fallen angels of a particular hue4 ,in ,cadiz1 in fact1 does ,carnival--that modern ,bacchus of fun1 give a loose to his wildest eccentricities--nor may those who are least disposed to do homage to the god escape his all-pervading influence4 ,all laws yield to his1 during his three days of ,saturnalia4 ,not the least eccentric of his code is that one1 which authorizes the baptism of every passenger in a street with the contents of jugs1 bestowed from the fair hands of vigilant angels who soar on the second-floor balconies4 ,the statute enjoins also the expression of gratitude for these favours1 conveyed with more or less precision of aim1 in the form of hen's eggs--of which there is consequently a scarcity on breakfast-tables on the mornings of these festive days4 ,at eleven o'clock each night1 four spacious buildings scarcely suffice for the masquerading population4 ,but the paddles have been battering for some hours the waters of the ,guadalquivir1 and we are approaching ,seville1 a city given to less turbulent propensities--where ,pleasure assumes a more timid gait1 nor cares to alarm ,devotion--a partner with whom she delights1 hand in hand1 to tread this marble-paved ,paradise4 ,the passage between ,cadiz and ,seville1 is composed of two hours of sea1 and eight or nine of river4 ,the beautiful bay1 and its white towns1 with ,cadiz itself1 looking in the sunshine like a palace of snow rising out of the sea--have no power now to rivet the attention1 nor to occupy feelings already glowing with the anticipation of a sail between the banks of the ,guadalquivir4 ,a ridge of hidden rocks lengthens the approach1 compelling the pilot to describe a large semicircle1 before he can make the mouth of the river4 ,this delay is a violent stimulant to one's impatience4 ,at length we have entered the ancient ,betis2 and leaving behind the active little town of ,st4 ,lucar1 celebrated for its wines1 and for those of the neighbouring ,xeres1 of which it embarks large quantities--we are gliding between these famous shores4 ,great1 indeed1 is the debt they owe to the stirring events that have immortalized these regions1 for they are anything but romantic4 ,nothing can be less picturesque2--all the flatness of ,holland1 without the cultivation1 and the numerous well-peopled villages1 which diminish the monotonous effect4 ,on the right are seen at some distance the wooded hills of ,xeres2 but for scores of miles1 on the opposite side1 all is either marsh1 or half-inundated pasture1 with here and there some thinly-scattered olive trees1 and herds of oxen for its sole living occupants4 ,at a few leagues from ,seville1 the increased frequency of the olive grounds--a few villages and convents1 and at length the darker green masses of the orange groves1 give rapidly strengthening indications of approaching civilization2 and you are landed a short distance below the town1 to reach which1 it is necessary to traverse the ,christina ,gardens4 ,the cathedral occupies this southern extremity of the city2 and on your way to the inn1 you may make an estimate of the length of one side of its immense quadrangular enclosure4 ,immediately beyond this you are received into the inevitable labyrinth of crooked lanes1 peculiar to an ,arab town4 ,the steam trip from ,cadiz is so easy a day's journey1 that no necessity for repose or refitting interferes with the impatience of those who arrive to explore the external town4 ,you speedily1 therefore1 sally forth1 and thread a few of the mazy streets2 but without venturing too far1 on account of the evident risk of losing your way4 ,should you chance to stumble on the ,plaza ,mayor1--called ,plaza de ,san ,francisco1--you are at once rewarded by the view of the ayuntamiento1 one of the most elegant edifices in ,spain3 otherwise the extreme simplicity of the bare1 irregular1 but monotonous white houses1 will create disappointment--you will stare about in the vain search of the magnificence1 so much extolled1 of this semi-,moorish capital1 and discover1 that nothing can be plainer1 more simple1 more ugly1 than the exterior of the ,seville habitations4 ,at length1 however1 some open door1 or iron grille1 placed on a line with an inner court1 will operate a sudden change in your ideas1 and afford a clue to the mystery4 ,through this railing1 generally of an elegant form1 is discovered a delicious vista1 in which are visible1 fountains1 white marble colonnades1 pomegranate and sweet lemon-trees1 sofas and chairs 7if in summer71 and two or three steps of a porcelain staircase4 ,you now first appreciate the utility of the more than plain exteriors of the houses of this town2 and you admire an invention1 which adds to the already charming objects1 composing the interior of these miniature palaces1 a beauty still greater than that which they actually possess1 lent by the effect of contrast4 ,it is calculated that there are more than eighty thousand white marble pillars in ,seville4 ,for this luxury the inhabitants are indebted in a great measure to the ,romans1 whose town1 ,italica1 seated1 in ancient times1 on the opposite bank of the river1 four miles above ,seville1 and since entirely buried1 furnished the ,arab architects with a considerable portion of their decorating materials4 ,in a future letter ,i hope to introduce you to the interior of some of these abodes1 where we shall discover that their inhabitants prove themselves not unworthy of them1 by the perfect taste and conception of civilized life1 with which their mode of existence is regulated4 ,illustration3 ,,hall ,,of ,,ambassadors1 ,,alcazar1 ,,seville4 ,,letter ,,xviii4 ,,the ,,arabs ,,in ,,spain4 ,,alcazar ,,of ,,seville4 ,seville4 ,the chief attraction of this most interesting of the provinces of the ,peninsula1 consists in the numerous well preserved remains of ,arab art4 ,the most sumptuous of their palaces are1 it is true1 no longer in existence1 nor the principal mosques1 with the exception of the metropolitan temple of ,cordova3 but there remain sufficient specimens to shew1 that their architecture had attained the highest excellence in two of the principal requisites for excellence in that science--solidity and beauty4 ,the superiority of the ,arabs in this branch of science and taste is so striking1 that all other departments of art1 as well as the customs and peculiarities of that race1 and the events of their dominion in this country1 become at once the subjects of interest and inquiry4 ,it is consequently very satisfactory to discover that one can examine almost face to face that people1--probably the most advanced in science and civilization that ever set foot in ,europe2 so little are the traces of their influence worn away1 and so predominant is the portion of it still discernible in the customs1 manners1 and race of the population of this province1 and even to a considerable extent in their language4 ,there is something so brilliant in the career of the ,arab people1 as to justify the interest excited by the romantic and picturesque 7if the expression may be allowed71 points of their character and customs4 ,their civilization appears to have advanced abreast with their conquests1 and with the same prodigious rapidity2 supposing1 that is1 that previously to their issuing from their peninsula1 they were as backward as historians state them to have been3 a point not sufficiently established4 ,sallying forth1 under the immediate successors of ,mahomet1 they commenced1 in obedience to the injunction of their new faith1 a course of conquest unrivalled in rapidity4 ,their happy physical and mental organization1 enabled them to appropriate whatever was superior in the arts and customs of the conquered nations2 and whatever they imitated acquired during the process of adaptation1 new and more graceful modifications4 ,it has been asserted that they owed their civilization to the ,greeks2 and1 certainly1 the first subjected provinces being ,greek1 their customs could not but receive some impression from the contact2 but it is not probable that the ,greeks were altogether their instructors in civilization4 ,had such been the case their language would probably have undergone a change1 instead of continuing totally independent of the ,greek1 and attaining to greater richness4 ,they are known to have possessed poets of eminence before the appearance of ,mahomet1 consequently before they had any communication with the ,greeks2 shortly after the commencement of their intercourse with them1 they shewed a marked superiority over them in geometry1 in astronomy1 architecture1 and medicine1 and it would probably be found1 but for the destruction of so many ,arab libraries1 that they did not yield to them in eloquence and poetic genius4 ,established in ,spain1 they carried the arts of civilization--the useful no less than the elegant1 to the highest perfection4 ,they introduced principles of agriculture adapted to the peculiarities of the country4 ,the chief requisite for a country1 parched by a cloudless sun1 being water--they put in practice a complete system of irrigation1 to which the ,spaniards are still indebted for the extraordinary fertility of their soil4 ,many other arts that have since been permitted to dwindle into insignificance1 and some altogether to disappear1 were bequeathed by them4 ,the ,morocco preparation of leather is an instance of these last4 ,their high chivalry1 added to their moderation after victory1 would have divested even war of much of its barbarism1 had they had to do with a race less impenetrable1 and more susceptible of polish than were the iron legions of their ,gothic antagonists4 ,the persevering and repeated acts of treachery practised by these1 at last drew their civilized adversaries1 forcibly into the commission of acts of a similar nature--it being frequently necessary in self-defence to adopt the same weapons as one's enemy4 ,when firmly settled in ,spain1 the ,arabs no longer appear to have taken the field with a view to conquest4 ,abderahman the ,first1 ,almansor1 and other conquerors1 returned from their victories to repose in their capital2 contenting themselves with founding schools and hospitals to commemorate their successes1 without making them instrumental to the increase of their domination4 ,after this time campaigns seem frequently to have been undertaken from motives of emulation1 and for the purpose of affording them opportunities for a display of their prowess1 and giving vent to their military ardour4 ,they considered an irruption on the hostile territory1 or an attack on a town1 in the light of a tournament4 ,the ,christians1 on the contrary1 fought with a view to exterminate1 and without ever losing sight of their main object--the expulsion of the ,arabs and ,moors from the ,peninsula4 ,it was thus that they ultimately succeeded--a result they probably would not have attained1 had the ,moorish leaders been actuated by similar views1 and displayed less forbearance4 ,much of the misapprehension which exists in ,europe respecting this race is attributable to the exaggerations of writers2 much more to the absence of reflection in readers1 and to the almost universal practice of bringing every act related of personages inhabiting remote and half-known climes1 to the test of the only customs and manners with which we are familiar1 and which we consider1 for no other reason1 superior to all others--making no allowance for difference of education1 climate1 tradition1 race4 ,an ,european1 subjected to a similar process of criticism1 on the part of an inhabitant of the ,east1 would certainly not recognise his own portrait--a new disposition of light bearing upon peculiarities1 the existence of which had hitherto been unsuspected by their owner2 and he would manifest a surprise as unfeigned1 as a ,frenchman once expressed in my hearing1 on finding himself in a situation almost parallel4 ,conversing on the subject of a play1 acted in ,paris1 in which an ,englishman cut a ridiculous figure--a lady present remarked1 that1 no doubt1 in the ,london theatres the ,french were not spared2 upon which the ,frenchman ,i allude to--a person possessed of superior intelligence--exclaimed3 ,how could that be1 since there was nothing about a ,frenchman that could be laughed at8 ,on reading of a reprehensible act attributed to a ,mahometan1 some will brand ,mahometanism in general1 and of all times and places1 with the commission of the like crimes1 placing the event at a distance of a thousand leagues1 or of a thousand years from its real place and date3 forgetting that power has been abused under all religions2 and that we only hear one side of the question with respect to all that relates to the ,oriental races--our information only reaching us through the medium of writers of different and hostile faith4 ,it is a singular fact that the popular terror1 which so long attached itself to the idea of a ,saracen1 and which derived its origin from the conquests of the ,mahometans1 has its equivalent in certain ,mahometan countries4 ,in some parts of the empire of ,morocco1 the idea of a ,christian is that of a ruffian of immense stature and terrific features2 calculated to inspire the utmost fear in the breasts of all who approach him4 ,such is their notion of his ferocity1 that one of the emperors1 ,muley ,ismael1 in order to terrify his refractory subjects into obedience1 was in the habit of threatening to have them eaten up by the ,christians4 ,from the inferior value set on human life by the races of the ,east1 we accuse them of barbarity3 forgetting1 that1 owing to the absence of all analogy between our origin1 races1 and education1 we are incompetent to appreciate their feelings1 and the motives of their conduct1 and have consequently no right to condemn them4 ,if we abstain from taking our neighbour's life1 we set also a proportionate value on our own3 a native of the ,east displays1 it is true1 less veneration for his own species4 ,deeply impressed with the dogmas of his religion1 which form the guide of his every day life1 the habit of acting up to the doctrines which he has been taught to believe1 diminishes his estimate of the value of temporal life1 whether that of others1 or his own1 which he exposes on occasions on which we should not be inclined to do so4 ,he does not take life for cruelty's sake1 nor without provocation4 ,were he to be furnished with ,arabian accounts of the treatment of a ,london or ,paris hackney-coach horse1 he would think of the noble and friendly animal which carries him to battle1 and turn in disgust from such a page4 ,the system practised at ,constantinople of nailing to his door-post the ear of the culprit detected in the employment of false weights1 is1 no doubt1 very discordant with our customs2 but this mode of punishment is said to be attended with such success1 as to do away almost entirely with the occasion for it4 ,were it adopted in some other capitals1 it would certainly at first disfigure many a neatly adorned entrance1 and give additional occupation to painters2 but the result might possibly be a more universal observance of the injunction contained in the eighth commandment4 ,as far as regards the ,arabs of ,spain1 it may be securely affirmed1 that1 during the course of their triumphs1 and long before they had attained their highest civilization1 no cruelties were exercised by them1 which came near to the barbarity of those practised subsequently by their ,christian adversaries on victims of a different creed1 when in their power4 ,we may instance the example set by ,st4 ,ferdinand1 who1 it is said1 when burning some ,moors1 piously stirred up the fire himself in the public place of ,palencia4 ,it cannot1 however1 be denied that cases of cruelty have occurred1 and are related in history of the ,arabs1 although they are rare among those of ,spain2 but1 if cruel1 the ,arab never added hypocrisy to his cruelty4 ,after having ravaged all ,andalucia with fire and famine1 ,st4 ,ferdinand formed the project of proceeding to ,africa the following year1 in order to attack the inhabitants of that country4 ,his death interrupted the course of these humane projects4 ,being dropsical1 and feeling his end approaching1 he called for his son ,alphonso1 afterwards his successor1 to whom this prince--cut off in the midst of his thirsty longings for blood and slaughter--is related to have given the counsels1 which the sentiments of piety1 justice1 and love for mankind1 with which he was filled1 inspired so great a monarch4 ,as for the degenerate modern tribes1 descendants of some of the most civilized of former days1 we have witnessed their contest1 pro aris et focis1 during the last few years1 against a sample of the ,christians of to-day3 the mode of making war is perfectly similar on both sides4 ,it is a no less curious travers of human nature1 from its being an almost universal one--that of which the modern ,spaniards afford an example4 ,they apply the term barbarians to the descendants of their ,moorish compatriots1 although they themselves have scarcely advanced a step in civilization since the day that1 in the public place of ,granada1 ,ferdinand the ,catholic burned one million five thousand ,arab books1 being all he could collect throughout ,spain2 showing what tremendous power may be wielded by a single human hand1 when applied to the task of undoing4 ,that ,king1 by a single signature1 accomplished an act which may be considered as equivalent to retarding1 by several centuries1 the civilization of a great country1--perhaps1 even1 to cutting it off from the only opportunity it was destined to possess1 during the present ages1 of arriving at the summit which the more privileged nations are permitted to attain2 while it influenced injuriously the progress of letters1 science1 and art throughout ,europe4 ,but we will no longer allow digressions to delay our visit to the ,alcazar1 where we shall find visible proof of ,arab superiority1 at least1 in architectural science and invention4 ,passing to the east of the cathedral through the large open space1 on the left of which is the ,archbishop's palace1 and on the right the cathedral and exchange1 the embattled outer walls of the ,alcazar stop the view in front2 varied here and there with square towers1 and containing in the centre an arched entrance4 ,the present buildings occupy the south-eastern corner of the ancient enclosure of the royal residence1 which comprised all the remaining space as far as the banks of the river1 passing round the south side of the cathedral1 and1 in fact1 including it in its precincts--an enclosure of about a mile and a half in circumference4 ,an old tower1 or scrap of wall1 indicates here and there the position of the ancient buildings1 the site of which is now occupied by two or three plazuelas1 or squares1 and several streets communicating between them4 ,the present palace scarcely covers a third of the original extent4 ,illustration3 ,,fa,,ade ,,of ,,the ,,alcazar1 ,,seville4 ,having passed through the first entrance1 you are in a large square1 surrounded with buildings without ornament1 and used at present as government offices4 ,at the opposite side another archway passes under the buildings1 and leads to a second large court4 ,this communicates on the left with one or two others2 one of these is rather ornamental1 and in the ,italian style1 surrounded by an arcade supported on double columns1 and enclosing a garden sunk considerably below the level of the ground4 ,this court is approached by a covered passage1 leading1 as already mentioned1 from the left side of the second large square1 the south side of which--the side opposite to that on which we entered--consists of the faade and portal of the inner palace of all2--the ,arab ornamental portion1 the residence of the royal person4 ,at the right-hand extremity of this front is the entrance to the first floor1 approached by a staircase1 which occupies part of the building on that side of the square1 and which contains the apartments of the governor4 ,the staircase is open to the air1 and is visible through a light arcade4 ,the centre portal of this faade is ornamented1 from the ground to the roof1 with rich tracery1 varied by a band of blue and white azulejos1 and terminating in an advancing roof of carved cedar4 ,right and left1 the rest of the front consists of a plain wall up to the first floor1 on which small arcades1 of a graceful design1 enclose retreating balconies and windows4 ,entering through the centre door1 a magnificent apartment has been annihilated by two white partitions1 rising from the ground to the ceiling1 and dividing it into three portions1 the centre one forming the passage which leads from the entrance to the principal court4 ,several of the apartments are thus injured1 owing to the palace being occasionally used as a temporary lodging for the court4 ,passing across the degraded hall1 a magnificent embroidered arch--for the carving with which it is covered more resembles embroidery than any other ornament--gives access to the great court4 ,it is difficult to ascertain what portion of this palace belongs to the residence of the ,moorish ,kings1 as ,pedro the ,cruel had a considerable portion of it rebuilt by ,moorish architects in the same style4 ,the still more recent additions are easily distinguished4 ,one of them1 in this part of the edifice1 is a gallery1 erected by ,charles the ,fifth1 over the arcades of the great court4 ,this gallery one would imagine to have been there placed with a view to demonstrate the superiority of ,arab art over every other4 ,it is conceived in the most elegant ,italian style1 and executed in white marble2 but1 compared with the fairy arcades which support it1 it is clumsiness itself4 ,the court is paved with white marble slabs1 and contains in the centre a small basin of the same material1 of chaste and simple form1 once a fountain4 ,the arcades are supported on pairs of columns1 measuring about twelve diameters in height1 and of equal diameter throughout4 ,the capitals are in imitation of the ,corinthian4 ,the entire walls1 over and round the arches1 are covered with deep tracery in stucco2 the design of which consists of diamond-shaped compartments1 formed by lines descending from the cornice1 and intersecting each other diagonally4 ,these are indented in small curves1 four to each side of the diamond4 ,in each centre is a shell1 surrounded by fanciful ornaments4 ,the same design is repeated on the inside of the walls1 that is1 under the arcade1 but only on the outer wall2 and this portion of the court is covered with a richly-ornamented ceiling of ,alerce1 in the manner called artesonado4 ,on the opposite side of the court to that on which we entered1 another semicircular arch1 of equal richness1 leads to a room extending the whole length of the court1 and similar in form to that situated at the entrance1 possessing also an ornamental ceiling1 but plainer walls4 ,the left and right sides of the court are shorter than the others4 ,in the centre of the left side1 a deep alcove is formed in the wall1 probably occupied in former times by a sofa or throne3 at present it is empty1 with the exception1 in one corner1 of a dusty collection of azulejos fallen from the walls1 and exposing to temptation the itching palms of enthusiasts4 ,at the opposite end a large arch1 admirably carved1 and containing some superb old cedar doors1 leads to the ,hall of ,ambassadors4 ,this apartment is a square of about thirty-three feet1 by nearly sixty in height4 ,it is also called the media naranja 7half-orange71 from the form of its ceiling4 ,illustration3 ,,great ,,court ,,of ,,the ,,alcazar1 ,,seville4 ,in the centre of each side is an entrance1 that from the court consists of the arch just mentioned1 forming a semicircle with the extremities prolonged in a parallel direction4 ,those of the three other sides are each composed of three arches of the horse-shoe form1 or three-quarters of a circle1 and supported by two columns of rare marbles and jasper surmounted by gilded capitals4 ,the walls are entirely covered with elegant designs1 executed in stucco1 the effect of which suffers from a series of small arches1 running round the upper part of the room1 having been deprived of their tracery to make room for the painted heads 7more or less resembling7 of the kings of ,spain1 ,goths and their successors1 excepting the ,arabs and ,moors4 ,this degradation is1 however1 forgotten from the moment the eye is directed to the ceiling4 ,in the ,arab architecture1 the ornament usually becomes more choice1 as it occupies a higher elevation2 and the richest and most exquisite labours of the artist are lavished on the ceilings4 ,the designs are complicated geometrical problems1 by means of which the decorators of that nation of mathematicians and artists attained to a perfection of ornament unapproached by any other style4 ,from the cornice of this room rise clusters of diminutive gilded semi-cupolas1 commencing by a single one1 upon which two are supported1 and multiplying so rapidly as they rise1 some advancing1 others retreating1 and each resting on a shoulder of one below1 that1 by the time they reach the edge of the great cupola1 they appear to be countless4 ,the ornament of this dome consists of innumerable gilt projecting bands1 of about two inches in width2 these intersect each other in an infinite profusion of curves1 as they stretch over the hemispherical space4 ,the artist1 who would make a pencil sketch of this ceiling1 should be as deep a geometrician as the architect who designed it4 ,on quitting the ,hall of ,ambassadors1 we arrive at the best part of the building4 ,passing through the arcade at the right-hand side1 a long narrow apartment is crossed1 which opens on a small court called the ,court of ,dolls 7,patio de los ,muceas74 ,no description1 no painting can do justice to this exquisite little enclosure4 ,you stand still1 gazing round until your delight changes into astonishment at such an effect being produced by immoveable walls and a few columns4 ,a space1 of about twenty feet by thirty1--in which ten small pillars1 placed at corresponding but unequal distances1 enclose a smaller quadrangle1 and support1 over a series of different sized arches1 the upper walls1--has furnished materials to the artist for the attainment of one of the most successful results in architecture4 ,the ,alhambra has nothing equal to it4 ,its two large courts surpass1 no doubt1 in beauty the principal court of this palace2 but1 as a whole1 this residence1 principally from its being in better preservation and containing more1 is superior to that of ,granada1 always excepting the advantage derived from the picturesque site of the latter4 ,the ,court of ,dolls1 at all events1 is unrivalled4 ,illustration3 ,,court ,,of ,,dolls1 ,,alcazar1 ,,seville4#aj ,the architect made here a highly judicious use of some of the best gleanings from ,italica1 consisting of a few antique capitals1 which1 being separated from their shafts1 have been provided with others1 neither made for them1 nor even fitted to them4 ,the pillars are small1 and long for their diameter1 with the exception of the four which occupy the angles1 which are thicker and all white4 ,the rest are of different coloured marbles1 and all are about six feet in height4 ,the capitals are of still smaller proportions2 so that at the junction they do not cover the entire top of the shaft4 ,this defect1 from what cause it is difficult to explain1 appears to add to their beauty4 ,the capitals are exquisitely beautiful4 ,one in particular1 apparently ,greek1 tinged by antiquity with a slight approach to rose colour1 is shaped1 as if carelessly1 at the will of the sculptor2 and derives from its irregularly rounded volutes and uneven leaves1 an inconceivable grace4 ,the arches are of various shapes1 that is1 of three different shapes and dimensions1 and whether more care1 or better materials were employed in the tracery of the walls in this court1 or for whatever other reason1 it is in better preservation than the other parts of the palace4 ,it has the appearance of having been newly executed in hard white stone4 ,through the ,court of ,dolls you pass into an inner apartment1 to which it is a worthy introduction4 ,this room has been selected in modern times1 as being the best in the palace1 for the experiment of restoring the ceiling4 ,the operation has been judiciously executed1 and produces an admirable effect4 ,the design of this ceiling is the most tasteful of the whole collection4 ,six or seven stars placed at equal distances from each other1 form centres1 from which1 following the direction of the sides of their acute angles1 depart as many lines2 that is1 two from each point2 or1 supposing the star to have twelve points--twenty-four from each star3 but these lines soon change their directions1 and intersecting each other repeatedly1 form innumerable small inclosures of an hexagonal shape4 ,the lines are gilt4 ,each hexagonal compartment rises in relief of about an inch and a half from the surface1 and is ornamented with a flower1 painted in brilliant colours on a dark ground4 ,the room is twenty-four feet in height by only sixteen wide1 and between sixty and seventy in length4 ,at the two ends1 square spaces are separated from the centre portion by a wall1 advancing about two feet from each side1 and supporting an arch1 extending across the entire width4 ,these arches were probably furnished with curtains1 which separated at will the two ends from the principal apartment1 and converted them into sleeping retreats4 ,their ornaments are still more choice than those of the centre4 ,with the exception of this room1 all the principal apartments1 and the two courts1 are decorated from the ground upwards to a height of about five feet1 with the azulejos1 or mosaic of porcelain tiles1 the colours of which never lose their brilliancy4 ,the first floor is probably an addition made entirely subsequently to the time of the ,moors4 ,it contains several suites of plain white-washed rooms1 and only two ornamental apartments1 probably of ,don ,pedro's time4 ,these are equal to those on the ground floor with respect to the tracery of the walls1 unfortunately almost filled with white-wash2 but their ceilings are plainer4 ,there is a gallery over the ,court of ,dolls1 of a different sort from the rest1 but scarcely inferior in beauty to any part of the edifice4 ,the pillars1 balustrades1 and ceilings1 are of wood4 ,one of the last mentioned apartments has an advantage over all the rest of the palace1 derived from its position4 ,it opens on a terrace looking over the antique gardens1--a view the most charming and original that can be imagined4 ,this room must be supposed to have been the boudoir of ,maria ,padilla1--the object of the earliest and most durable of ,pedro's attachments2 whose power over him outlived the influence of all his future liaisons4 ,it is indeed probable that the taste for this residence1 and the creation of a large portion of its beauties1 are to be attributed to the mistress1 rather than to a gloomy and bloodthirsty king1 as ,pedro is represented to have been1 and whose existence was totally unsuited to such a residence4 ,in the ,court of ,dolls the portion of pavement is pointed out on which his brother ,don ,fadrique fell1 slaughtered1 as some say1 by ,pedro's own hand1--at all events in his presence1 and by his order4 ,this monarch1 were his palace not sufficient to immortalize him1 would have a claim to immortality1 as having ordered more executions than all the other monarchs who ever ruled in ,spain1 added together4 ,it appears to have been a daily necessity for him2 but he derived more than ordinary satisfaction when an opportunity could be obtained of ordering an archbishop to the block4 ,the see of ,toledo became under him the most perilous post in the kingdom1 next to that of his own relatives3 but he occasionally extended the privilege to other archbishopricks4 ,it is a relief to meet with a case of almost merited murder in so sanguinary a list4 ,such may be termed the adventure of an innocent man1 who1 seeing before him a noose which closes upon everything which approaches it1 carefully inserts his neck within the circumference4 ,this was the case of a monk1 who1 hearing that ,pedro1 during one of his campaigns1 was encamped in a neighbouring village1 proceeded thither1 and demanded an audience4 ,his request being immediately granted1 no doubt in the expectation of some valuable information respecting the enemy's movements1 the holy man commenced an edifying discourse1 in which he informed ,don ,pedro1 that the venerabilissimo ,san ,somebody 7the saint of his village7 had passed a considerable time with him in his dream of the previous night3 that his object in thus miraculously waiting upon him was1 to request he would go to his ,majesty1 and tell him1 that1 owing to the unpardonable disorders of his life1 it was determined he should lose the approaching battle4 ,it was the unhappy friar's last sermon2 for in less than five minutes he had ceased to exist4 ,it stands to reason1 that1 owing to the retired habits of this friar1 a certain anecdote had never reached his ear relative to another member of a religious fraternity4 ,at a period that had not long preceded the event just related1 the misconduct of this sovereign had drawn down upon him the displeasure of the head of the church4#aa ,the thunderbolt was already forged beneath the arches of the ,vatican2 but a serious difficulty presented itself4 ,the culprit was likely to turn upon the hand employed in inflicting the chastisement4 ,at length a young monk1 known to a member of the holy synod as a genius of promise1 energetic and fertile in resources1 was made choice of1 who unhesitatingly undertook the mission4 ,he repaired to ,seville1 and after a few days' delay1 employed in combining his plan of operation1 he got into a boat1 furnished with two stout rowers1 and allowing the current to waft him down the ,guadalquivir1 until he arrived opposite a portion of the bank known to be the daily resort of the ,king1 he approached the shore1 and waited his opportunity4 ,at the accustomed hour the royal cavalcade was seen to approach2 when1 standing up in the boat1 which was not allowed to touch the shore1 he made signs that he would speak to the party4 ,the monkish costume commanded respect even from royalty1 and ,don ,pedro reined in his horse4 ,the monk then inquired whether it would gratify his ,majesty to listen to the news of certain remarkable occurrences that had taken place in the ,east1 from which part of the world he had just arrived4 ,the ,king approached1 and ordered him to tell his story3 upon which he unrolled the fatal document1 and with all possible rapidity of enunciation read it from beginning to end4 ,before it was concluded1 the ,king had drawn his sword1 and spurred his horse to the brink of the water2 but at his first movement the boat had pushed off1--the reader still continuing his task1--so that by the time ,pedro found himself completely excommunicated1 his rage passing all bounds1 he had dashed into the water1 directing a sabre cut1 which only reached the boat's stern4 ,he still1 however1 spurred furiously on1 and compelled his horse to swim a considerable distance2 until1 the animal becoming exhausted1 he only regained the shore after being in serious danger of drowning4 ,it may easily be imagined that the papal messenger1 satisfied with his success1 avoided the contact of terra firma1 until he found himself clear of ,pedro's dominions4 ,quitting the room--that of ,maria ,padilla 7according to my conjecture7 by the door which leads to the terrace1 you look down on a square portion of ground1 partitioned off from the rest by walls1 against which orange-trees are trained like our wall-fruit trees1 only so thickly that no part of the masonry is visible4 ,all the walls in the garden are thus masked by a depth of about eight inches of leaves evenly clipped4 ,in the fruit season the effect is admirable4 ,the small square portions next to the palace thus partitioned off are laid out in flower-beds1 separated by walks of mixed brick and porcelain1 all of which communicate with fountains in the centres4 ,the fountains1 simple and destitute of the usual classical menagerie of marine zoology and gods and goddesses1 whose coperation is so indispensable in most ,european gardens to the propulsion of each curling thread or gushing mass of the cold element1--derive all their charm from the purity and taste displayed in their design4 ,one of the most beautiful of them consists merely of a raised step1 covered with azulejos1 enclosing a space of an hexagonal form1 in the centre of which the water rises from a small block of corresponding form and materials4 ,the mosaic is continued outside the step1 but covers only a narrow space4 ,illustration3 ,,fountains ,,at ,,the ,,alcazar4 ,the terrace stretches away to the left as far as the extremity of the buildings1 the faade of which is hollowed out into a series of semicircular alcoves2 there being no doors nor windows1 with the exception of the door of the room through which we issued4 ,the alcoves are surrounded with seats1 and form so many little apartments1 untenable during the summer1 as they look to the south1 but forming excellent winter habitations4 ,arrived at the extremity of the palace front1 the promenade may be continued at the same elevation down another whole side of the gardens1 along a terrace of two stories1 which follows the outer enclosure4 ,this terrace is very ornamental4 ,from the ground up to a third of its height1 its front is clothed with the orange-tree1 in the same manner as the walls already described4 ,immediately above runs a rustic story of large projecting stones1 which serves as a basement for the covered gallery1 or lower of the two walks4 ,this gallery is closed on the outside1 which is part of the town wall4 ,the front or garden side is composed of a series of rustic arches1 alternately larger and smaller1 formed of rugged stones1 such as are used for grottoes1 and of a dark brown colour--partly natural1 partly painted4 ,the arches are supported by marble columns1 or rather fragments of columns1--all the mutilated antique trunks rummaged out of ,italica4 ,for a shaft of insufficient length a piece is found of the dimensions required to make up the deficiency1 and placed on its top without mortar or cement4 ,some of the capitals are extremely curious4 ,among them almost every style may be traced1 from the ,hindoo to the ,composite3 but no one is entire1 nor matched with any part of the column it was originally destined to adorn4 ,over this gallery is the open terrace1 which continues that of the palace side on the same level4 ,the view extends in all directions1 including the gardens and the surrounding country2 for we are here at the extremity of the town4 ,at the furthest end the edifice widens1 and forms an open saloon1 surrounded with seats1 glittering with the bright hues of the azulejos4 ,from these terraces you look down on the portion of the garden in which the royal arms are represented1 formed with myrtle-hedges4 ,eagles1 lions1 castellated towers1--all are accurately delineated4 ,myrtle-hedges are also used in all parts of the gardens as borders to the walks4 ,it is a charming evening's occupation to wander through the different enclosures of these gardens1 which1 although not very extensive1 are characterised by so much that is uncommon in their plan and ornaments1 that the lounger is never weary of them4 ,nor is the visible portion of their attractions more curious than the hidden sources of amusement and--ablution1 by means of which an uninitiated wanderer over these china-paved walks1 may be unexpectedly1 and more than necessarily refreshed4 ,by means of a handle1 concealed--here in the lungs of some bathing ,diana in the recesses of her grotto--here in the hollow of a harmless looking stone--an entire line of walk is instantaneously converted into a stage of hydraulics--displaying to the spectator a long line of embroidery1 composed of thousands of silver threads sparkling in the sunshine1 as issuing from unseen apertures in the pavement they cross each other at a height of a few feet from the ground1 forming an endless variety of graceful curves4 ,almost all the walks are sown with these burladores1 as they are termed4 ,a large portion of the grounds consists of an orange-grove1 varied with sweet lemon-trees4 ,the trees are sufficiently near to each other to afford universal shade1 without being so thickly planted as to interfere with the good-keeping of the grass1 nor with the movement of promenading parties4 ,in the centre of this grove is a beautiful edifice1--a square pavilion entirely faced1 within and without1 with the azulejos1 with the exception only of the roof4 ,around it is a colonnade of white marble1 enclosing a space raised two feet above the ground1 and surrounded by a seat of the same mosaic4 ,the interior is occupied by a table1 surrounded with seats4 ,the subterranean baths1 called the baths of ,maria ,padilla1 are entered from the palace end of the garden4 ,they extend to a considerable distance under the palace1 and must during the summer heats1 have been a delightfully cool retreat4 ,this alcazar is probably the best specimen of a ,moorish residence remaining in ,europe4 ,the ,alhambra would1 no doubt1 have surpassed it1 but for the preference accorded by the ,emperor1 ,charles the ,fifth1 to its situation over that of ,seville3 owing to which he contented himself with building a gallery over the principal court at the latter2 while at ,granada1 he destroyed a large portion of the old buildings1 which he replaced by an entire ,italian palace4 ,at present the ornamented apartments of the ,seville palace are more numerous1 and in better preservation than those of the ,alhambra4 ,both1 however1 would have been thrown into the shade1 had any proportionate traces existed of the palace of ,abderahman the ,third1 in the environs of ,cordova4 ,unfortunately nothing of this remains but the description4 ,it is among the few ,arab manuscripts which escaped the colossal auto-da-f of ,ferdinand and ,isabella1 and would appear too extravagant to merit belief1 but for the known minuteness and accuracy of the ,arab writers1 proved by their descriptions of the palaces and other edifices which remain to afford the test of comparison4 ,the immense wealth lavished by these princes1 must also be taken into consideration1 and especially by the ,caliphs of ,cordova1 who possessed a far more extended sway than belonged to the subsequent dynasties of ,seville and ,granada4 ,according to a custom prevalent at their court1 rich presents were offered to the sovereign on various occasions4 ,among others1 governors of provinces1 on their nomination1 seldom neglected this practical demonstration of gratitude4 ,this practice is to this day observed at the court of the ,turkish ,sultan1 and serves to swell the treasury in no small degree4 ,abderahman the ,third1 having granted a government to the brother of his favourite1 ,ahmed ben ,sayd1 the two brothers joined purses1 and offered a present made up of the following articles--accompanied by delicate and ingenious compliments in verse1 for the composition of which they employed the most popular poet of the day3--,four hundred pounds weight of pure gold2 forty thousand sequins in ingots of silver2 four hundred pounds of aloes2 five hundred ounces of amber2 three hundred ounces of camphor2 thirty pieces of tissue of gold and silk2 a hundred and ten fine furs of ,khorasan2 forty-eight caparisons of gold and silk1 woven at ,bagdad2 four thousand pounds of silk in balls2 thirty ,persian carpets2 eight hundred suits of armour2 a thousand shields2 a hundred thousand arrows2 fifteen ,arabian1 and a hundred ,spanish horses1 with their trappings and equipments2 sixty young slaves--forty male1 and twenty female4 ,the palace near ,cordova1 erected by this sovereign1 was called ,azarah 7the ,flower7 after the name of his favourite mistress4 ,its materials consisted entirely of marble and cedar wood2 and it contained four thousand three hundred columns4 ,it was sufficiently spacious to lodge the whole court1 besides a guard of cavalry4 ,the gardens1 as was usual with the ,arabs1 formed the part of the residence on which were lavished the greatest treasures of wealth1 and the choicest inventions of taste4 ,the fountains were endless in number and variety4 ,on one of the most picturesque spots was situated an edifice called the ,caliph's ,pavilion4 ,it consisted of a circular gallery of white marble columns with gilded capitals2 in the centre rose a fountain of quicksilver1 imitating all the movements of water1 and glittering in the sun with a brightness too dazzling for the eye to support4 ,several of the saloons of this palace were ornamented with fountains4 ,in one1 which bore the name of the ,caliph's ,saloon1 a fountain of jasper contained in the centre a golden swan of beautiful workmanship--and over it hung from the ceiling a pearl1 which had been sent from ,constantinople as a present from the ,greek ,emperor to ,abderahman4 ,the mosque of this palace surpassed in riches1 although not in size1 the ,aljama of ,cordova4 ,these were monuments worthy to have kings and caliphs for architects1 for such they had4 ,there is no doubt that the palace of ,azahrah was planned and designed by the ,caliph himself2 and the founder of that dynasty1 ,abderahman the ,first1 not only designed the magnificent mosque of ,cordova1 but presided daily over the progress of its erection4 ,possessed1 as these sovereigns were1 as well as all the well-born portion of their nation1 of a highly cultivated education1 the intervals of leisure1 left them by war1 were rarely thrown away in idleness4 ,abderahman the ,first was a poet1 besides being a mathematician1 an architect1 and the first soldier of his time4 ,some of his writings have been preserved1 and are among the ,arab works collected and translated by ,cond into ,spanish4 ,the following stanzas1 addressed to a palm-tree1 must be1 as is always the case1 still more beautiful in the original1 although charming in the ,spanish4 ,the monarch of the ,western ,empire1 after having vanquished his enemies1 and pacified his dominions1--beloved by his subjects and by all who approached him1 and possessed of the resources of science to occupy his mind1 was nevertheless unhappy4 ,he preferred his home in ,asia to the splendours of an imperial throne in such a land as ,andalucia4 ,he caused a young palm-tree to be brought from ,syria1 and planted in a garden formed by him in the environs of ,cordova2 and it was his delight to sit in a tower constructed in the garden1 and gaze at his tree4 ,it was to this tree he addressed the lines thus translated3-- ,tu tambien1 insigne palma1 ,eres aqui forastera4 ,de ,algarbe las dulces auras ,tu pompa halagan y besan4 ,en fecundo suelo arraigas1 ,y al cielo tu cima elevas1 ,tristes lagrimas lloraras1 ,si qual io sentir pudieras4 ,tu no sientes contratiempos ,como io de suerte aviesa3 ,a mi de pena y dolor ,continuas lluvias me annegan4 ,con mis lagrimas regue ,las palmas que el ,forat riega1 ,pero las palmas y el rio ,se olvidan de mis penas4 ,cuando mios infaustos hados1 ,y de ,al4 ,abas la fiereza ,mi forzaron de dexar ,del alma las dulces prendas2 ,a ti de mi patria amada ,ningun recuerda ti queda2 ,pero io1 triste1 no puedo ,dexar de llorar por ella4 ,it is probable that on the occasion of the surrender of ,cordova to ,ferdinand the ,third1 the ,moors destroyed their palace of ,azarah1 since they were desirous of acting in a similar manner at ,seville1 with regard to ,geber's ,tower4 ,perhaps from disgust at the idea that a monument1 the beauty and grandeur of which had inspired them with a sort of affection1 would be1 being gazed at1 trodden1 and possibly disfigured1 7as it turned out7 by those whom they looked upon as barbarians1 and who would not appreciate its perfection1 they attempted to introduce a clause into the conditions of the surrender of ,seville1 stipulating the destruction of the tower4 ,by way of testifying to the accuracy of the opinion they had formed of their adversaries1 ,saint ,ferdinand was on the point of agreeing to the clause3 when his son1 afterwards his successor1 ,alonso el ,sabio1 perhaps the only ,christian present1 who felt sufficient interest in a square mass of masonry1 to care how the question was decided1 energetically interfered1 affirming that a single brick displaced1 should be paid with the lives of the whole population4 ,this most perfect scientific monument left by the ,arabs1 for the possession of which1 after the architect1 ,europe is indebted to ,alonso the ,tenth1 we will presently examine1 together with the cathedral1 which was afterwards erected1 so as to include it in his plan4 ,,letter ,,xix ,,cathedral ,,of ,,seville4 ,seville4 ,we have visited the most beautiful edifice in ,seville2 we are now approaching the most magnificent4 ,the native writers1 participating somewhat in the character attributed to the inhabitants of their province1 sometimes called the ,gascony of ,spain1 declare this cathedral to be the grandest in the world4 ,this is going too far2 setting aside ,st4 ,peter's1 and the ,santa ,maria del ,fiore1 the style of which renders the comparison more difficult1 the ,duomo of ,milan1 of which this building appears to be an imitation1 must be allowed to be superior to it1 externally at least1 if not internally4 ,had they ranked it as the finest church out of ,italy1 they would not have been much in error1 for such it probably is4 ,no one in approaching1 excepting from the west1 would imagine it to be a ,gothic edifice4 ,you perceive an immense quadrangular enclosure1 filled apparently with cupolas1 towers1 pinnacles of all sorts and styles1 but less of the ,gothic than any other4 ,these belong to the numerous accessory buildings1 subsequently annexed to the church2 such as sacristies1 chapels1 chapter-hall1 each subsequent erection having been designed in a different style4 ,the cathedral is inaccessible on the south side1 that which we first reach in coming from the ,alcazar4 ,it is enclosed here within a long ,italian faade of about thirty to forty feet elevation1 ornamented by a row of ,ionic pilasters1 supporting an elegant frieze and balustrade4 ,we therefore ascend the raised pavement1 which1 bounded by a series of antique shafts of columns1 surrounds the whole enclosure2 and having passed down the greater part of the east end1 find a small portal close to the ,giralda1 which admits to the church through the court of orange-trees4 ,before we enter1 we will look round on this view1 which possesses more of the ,moorish character1 than that which awaits us in the interior4 ,some idea of the general plan of these buildings will be necessary1 in order that you may perfectly understand our present point of view4 ,i mentioned above1 that the general enclosure formed a square4 ,this square1 the sides of which face the four points of the compass1 is divided by a straight line into two unequal parts1 one being about a third wider than the other4 ,the direction of the line is east and west2 to the south of it is the cathedral1 to the north1 the ,moorish court of orange-trees4 ,the ,arab ,tower1 now called the ,giralda1 stands in the north-east angle of the cathedral1 and the small door1 through which we have just entered1 in the south-eastern angle of the court1 is close by it4 ,the court is surrounded by buildings2 for besides the church on its south side1 a chapel called the ,sagrario1 runs down the entire western end4 ,the east side and half the north are occupied by arcades1 which support the library1 the gift of the son of ,columbus to the cathedral2 and the remaining half side by a sacristy4 ,the buildings of the east and north sides lean against the old embattled wall on the outside4 ,the chapel of the ,sagrario to the west is in the ,italian style4 ,avenues of orange-trees1 and a marble fountain of a simple but choice design1 are the only objects which occupy the open space4 ,throughout it reigns an eternal gloom1 maintained by the frowning buttresses and pinnacles of the cathedral1 which overhang it from the south4 ,illustration3 ,,interior ,,of ,,the ,,cathedral1 ,,seville4 ,a small doorway1 near to that by which we entered the court1 gives access to the cathedral at all hours4 ,on entering an almost more than twilight would confuse the surrounding objects1 did it immediately succeed the sunshine of ,andalucia2 and were not the transition rendered gradual to the eye by the deep shades of the orange court4 ,as you advance towards the centre nave1 this darkness aids in producing the effect of immensity1 which is the next idea that presents itself4 ,in fact the enormous elevation and width of the edifice is such as at first to overpower the imagination1 and to deprive you of the faculty of appreciating its dimensions4 ,it produces a novel species of giddiness arising from looking upwards4 ,to arrive at the intersection of the principal nave and transept1 you traverse two side naves1 both about eighty-five feet in height1 and spacious in proportion4 ,the centre nave is a hundred and thirty-two feet1 but rises at the quadrangle1 forming its intersection with the transept about twenty feet higher4 ,the ceiling here1 and over the four surrounding intercolumniations1 is ornamented with a groining of admirable richness4 ,that of the centre quadrangle is here and there tinged with crimson and orange tints1 proceeding from some diminutive windows placed between the lower and upper ceilings4 ,after having sufficiently examined the upper view1 the eye wanders over the immense vacuum of the transept1 and rests at length on the bronze railings which1 on the east1 separate you from the high-altar1 and on the west from the choir4 ,these are superb4 ,that of the ,capilla ,mayor rises to an elevation of sixty feet1 and is throughout of the most elaborate workmanship4 ,it is the work of a ,dominican monk1 who also executed the two pulpits4 ,the choir forms1 as usual1 a sort of saloon1 which occupies the centre of the church1 that is1 in this instance1 two of the five intercolumniations which reach from the transept to the western portal4 ,passing round it1 in the direction of the western doors1 where the view is more open1 the plan and style of the building are more easily distinguished4 ,they are remarkably simple4 ,the area is a quadrangle of three hundred and ninety-eight feet by two hundred and ninety-one1 and is divided into five naves by four rows of pillars1 all of about sixty feet elevation4 ,the width of the centre nave and transept is fifty-nine feet1 and the whole is surrounded by chapels4 ,the distance between the pillars1 of which there are only eight in each row1 has the effect of generalizing the view of the whole edifice1 and imparting to it a grandeur which is not obtained in the cathedral of ,toledo1 of almost equal dimensions2 while the smaller and less gaudily coloured windows shed a more religious ray1 and are preferable to those of ,toledo1 which1 magnificent in themselves1 attract an undue share of the observation1 instead of blending into one perfect composition of architectural harmony4 ,immediately above the arches of the principal nave and transept1 at a height of about ninety feet1 runs a balustrade1 the design of which consists of a series of pointed arches4 ,above it are the windows1 reaching nearly to the ceiling4 ,they are painted in rather dark tints1 and afford no more than a sort of demi-jour1 which at the east end decreases to twilight4 ,rather more light is admitted towards the western extremity1 from some windows of plain glass1 in the lateral chapels1 without which the pictures they contain could not be viewed2 but from this end the high-altar is scarcely discernible4 ,the simple grandeur of this view loses nothing by the absence of all ornamental detail3 the portion most ornamented is the pavement1 composed of a mosaic of the richest marbles4 ,about half-way between the portals and the choir1 are inserted two or three large slabs1 bearing inscriptions2 one of them is to the memory of ,christopher ,columbus2 another to his son4 ,there are no other details to draw the attention until we visit the chapels1 in which all the treasures of art are dispersed4 ,a few pictures are scattered here and there around the eastern part of the building2 all of them are good4 ,a large one of ,zurbaran1 in the north transept1 is a master-piece4 ,it represents ,st4 ,jerome1 surrounded by an assembly of monks4 ,at the west end of the northernmost nave1 the first door opens to a vast church1 called the chapel of the ,sagrario1 already alluded to as forming the western boundary of the orange-court4 ,it is nearly two hundred feet in length2 in the ,italian style2 the orders ,doric and ,ionic1 but loaded with heavy sculpture in the worst taste4 ,after this a series of chapels1 of a style analogous to the body of the edifice1 succeed each other1 commencing with that of ,san ,antonio1 and continuing all round the church4 ,several of them contain beautiful details of ornament1 and handsome tombs4 ,that of the ,kings should be mentioned as an exception1 with regard to the architecture1 since its style is the plateresco4 ,it contains the tombs of ,alonzo the ,tenth1 and his ,queen ,beatrix1 with several others4 ,the most beautiful of these chapels is that of ,nuestra ,seora la ,antigua1 situated on the south side1 below the transept4 ,it forms a square of about thirty feet1 and rises to an elevation of upwards of eighty4 ,the walls are divided into stories and compartments1 and covered1 as is also the ceiling1 with admirable frescos by ,martinez and ,rovera4 ,at a side door leading to the sacristy1 are two beautiful columns of verde antico4 ,the high-altar is composed of jasper1 from quarries which existed at the distance of a few leagues from ,seville4 ,the statues are by ,pedro ,cornejo2 and there are handsome tombs let into the lower part of the walls4 ,four antique chandeliers1 one in each corner1 are designed with uncommon grace and originality4 ,from the summit of a short column rises a silver stem1 from different parts of which spring flat rods of the same metal1 so slight as to bend with the smallest weight3 they are of various lengths1 and at the extremity of each waves an elegantly formed lamp4 ,each of these clusters assumes a pyramidal form1 and produces a charming effect when lighted up on days of ceremony1--from their harmonizing with the rest of the decorations of the chapel1 no less than from the elegance of their form4 ,some of the chapels of this side1 and east of the transept1 communicate with other buildings1 erected subsequently to the principal edifice1 and consequently not comprised in its plan1 nor analogous to its style4 ,thus1 after passing through the chapel called ,del ,mariscal1 situated at the south-east of the apse1 you enter an anteroom1 which leads to the chapter-hall4 ,the anteroom is an apartment of handsome proportions1 covered1 in the intervals of a row of ,ionic pilasters1 with a series of pieces of sculpture in white marble4 ,the hall itself is magnificent4 ,it is an oval of fifty-seven feet in length1 entirely hung with crimson velvet enriched with gold embroidery4 ,another of the side chapels leads to the smaller sacristy4 ,i call it smaller because it is not so large as that which adjoins the orange-court2 but it is the principal of the two4 ,it is a superb saloon1 upwards of seventy feet in length by about sixty wide1 ornamented with a profusion of rich sculpture4 ,the architect was ,juan de ,herrera4 ,from the floor to a height of about four feet1 a spacious wardrobe1 composed of large mahogany drawers1 runs down the two longer sides of the room4 ,these contain probably the richest collection that exists of gold and silver embroidered velvets and silks1--brocades--lace--scarfs and mantles ornamented with precious stones3 all these are the ornaments belonging to altars and pulpits2 robes1 trains1 and vestures of different sorts1 worn on occasions of ceremony by the principal dignitaries4 ,the cathedral of ,seville is said to surpass all others in these ornaments4 ,in this sacristy are contained likewise the treasure of gold and silver vessels1 and basins2 innumerable crosses1 reliquaries1 chalices1 boxes1 and candlesticks2 and1 in an upright mahogany case of about twenty feet elevation1 lined with white silk1 the front of which opens like a door1 stands the ,custodia--a silver ornament about sixteen feet high1 including its base4 ,on the day of the ,corpus ,christi1 the ,host is placed in this ,custodia1 and carried in procession through ,seville4 ,the silver of which it is composed weighs seven hundred weight4 ,but it must not be supposed from this circumstance that the ornament has a heavy appearance4 ,it is a tapering edifice containing four stories1 ornamented by as many orders of architecture4 ,the general form is circular1 diminishing up to the summit1 which supports a single statue4 ,each story rests on twenty-four columns1 most of which are fluted1 and all1 together with their capitals1 remarkable for their delicacy of finish4 ,among these are numerous statues of saints1 in whose costumes precious stones are introduced4 ,in that of the statue of ,faith1 which stands in the centre of the lower story1 are some of immense value4 ,this ornament was the work of ,juan de ,arfe1 the ,cellini of ,spain4 ,but the pictures are the richest treasure of this apartment4 ,it is an epitome of the ,cathedral1 which may be called a gallery--one of the richest that exists--of the paintings of ,spanish schools3 consequently1 according to the opinion of many--one of the best of all galleries4 ,the pictures are not in great numbers1 but they are well adapted to their situation1 being the largest in dimension1 and among the most prominent in value and merit1 that have been produced by their respective painters4 ,by the greater portion of spectators1 the ,spanish artists1 of what may be called the golden age of painting1 will always be preferred to the ,italian2 because their manner of treating their subject1 appeals rather to the passions than to the understanding4 ,it is the same quality which renders the ,venetian school more popular than the other schools of ,italy2 and the ,italian music more attractive than the ,german--,rossini than ,spohr or ,beethoven4 ,i do not mean that the preference will be the result of choice1 in an individual who appreciates the two styles perfectly2 but that the difference ,i allude to renders the works of the greatest masters of ,italy less easily understood4 ,with all the intelligence and taste necessary for the appreciation of a picture of ,raffaelle1 many will have had a hundred opportunities of studying such a picture1 and will nevertheless have passed it by1 scarcely noticed2 merely1 because on the first occasion of seeing it1 they have not immediately caught the idea of the artist1 nor entered sufficiently into his feelings to trace the sparks of his inspiration scattered over the canvass4 ,how many are there too careless to return to the charge1 and thus to acquire the cultivation necessary to enable them to judge of such works1 who the moment a ,murillo1 or a ,zurbaran meets their view1 will gaze on it with delight1 for the simple reason1 that it is calculated to strike the intelligence the least cultivated4 ,the ,spanish artists usually endeavoured to produce an exact imitation of material nature2 while the ,italians aimed at1 and attained higher results4 ,the object of the ,spaniards being less difficult of attainment1 the perfection with which they imitated nature passes conception4 ,to that they devoted all the energies of their genius2 while you may search in vain in the best productions of ,italy1 not excepting the school of ,venice1 the one that most resembles the ,spanish1--for anything approaching their success in that respect4 ,by way of an example1 in the ,spasimo of ,raffaelle1 we trace the operations of the mind1 as they pierce through every feature of every countenance1 and the attitude of every limb throughout the grouping of that great master-piece of expression2 from the brutal impatience of the one1 and the involuntary compassion of the other executioner1 up to the intensity of maternal suffering in the ,virgin1 and the indescribable combination of heaven and earth1 which beams through the unequalled head of the ,christ2 but there is no deception to the eye4 ,no one would mistake any of the figures for reality2 nor exclaim that it steps from the canvass2 nor does any one wish for such an effect1 or perceive any such deficiency4 ,what1 on the contrary1 was the exclamation of ,murillo before ,campana's ,descent from the ,cross8 ,this master-piece of ,pedro de ,campana is seen at the head of the sacristy of the cathedral4 ,it was so favourite a picture with ,murillo1 that he used to pass much of his time every day1 seated before it4 ,on one occasion1 his presence being required on an affair of importance1 which he had forgotten1 his friends found him at his usual post before the ,descent2 when1 pointing to the figure of the ,christ1 he replied to their remonstrances1 ,i am only waiting until they have taken him down4 ,although ,murillo admired this perfect representation of material nature1 his own works are exceptions1 in fact almost the only exceptions1 to this peculiarity of the ,spanish masters4 ,he partakes1 indeed1 of the qualities of both schools in an eminent degree4 ,in intellectual expression and delineation of the operations of the mind1 he is superior to all his countrymen1 but inferior to the first ,italian painters4 ,in the material imitation of nature1 he is superior to the greater number of the ,italians1 but inferior to the other principal ,spanish artists4 ,there is1 at ,madrid1 a ,christ on the ,cross1 of his1 in which he has attempted this effect--an effort he ought rather to have despised4 ,the picture contains no other object than the figure1 and the cross of admirably imitated wood1 on a simple black1 or rather dark brown background1 representing complete darkness4 ,after sitting a short time before it1 you certainly feel a sort of uncomfortable sensation1 caused by the growing reality of the pale and tormented carcass2 but it is not to be compared to the ,descent of ,campana4 ,there the whole group is to the life1 and no darkness called in to aid the effect4 ,the drooping body is exposed to a powerful light1 and hangs its leaden weight on the arms of those who support it1 with a reality perfectly startling4 ,this picture is placed in the centre of the upper end of the sacristy1 as being considered the best of those therein contained3 but it is not without rivals4 ,the few paintings placed here are first rate2 particularly the portraits of the two archbishops of ,seville1 ,san ,leandro1 and ,san ,isidore--two of ,murillo's most exquisite productions4 ,some of the greatest compositions of this painter are contained in the chapels we have passed in review1 where they serve for altar-pieces1 each filling an entire side of a chapel4 ,of these large pictures1 ,i think the best on the side we are visiting is the ,saint ,francis4 ,the ,saint is represented kneeling to a vision of the ,virgin4 ,it may certainly be ranked among ,murillo's best efforts in the style he employed1 when treating these celestial subjects1 and which has been called his vaporous manner4 ,to speak correctly1 two of his three manners are employed in this picture1 since the ,saint is an instance of that called his warm manner4 ,on the opposite or north side of the cathedral1 in the first chapel after passing the door of the ,sagrario1 is the ,san ,antonio4 ,this is probably the greatest work of ,murillo in the two styles just mentioned1 and certainly the most magnificent picture contained in the cathedral4 ,on the lower foreground is the ,saint1 in adoration before the ,christ1 who appears in the centre1 surrounded by the ,heavenly ,host4 ,no one but ,murillo could ever have thus embodied his conception of a supernatural vision4 ,on sitting down before this canvass1 from which1 as it extends across the whole chapel1 no other object can draw off the attention1 you speedily yield to the irresistible power of abstraction1 and are lost in an ecstacy1 nearly resembling that which the artist has sought to represent in the countenance and attitude of his ,saint4 ,the eye wanders in a sort of trance through the glorious assemblage of ,heaven4 ,the whole scene looks real3 but it is only on taking time to study the details that you discover the prodigies of talent displayed in the drawing and finishing of this picture4 ,an angel1 suspended in front of the lower portion of the group1 more especially attracts the attention4 ,one leg is extended towards the spectator1 the foreshortening of which is a marvel of execution4 ,over the ,san ,antonio1 as it does not reach to the ceiling1 there is a smaller picture1 representing the ,baptism of ,christ1 also by ,murillo4 ,in a chapel at the south-west angle of the church1 there are several fine paintings by ,luis de ,vargas1 one of the founders of the school of ,seville4 ,in the choir1 the collection of books for the chanting services is worth seeing4 ,of these immense folios1 enclosed in massive covers1 bound with a profusion of wrought metal mostly silver--may be counted upwards of a hundred4 ,they are filled with paintings1 infinite in minuteness and beauty4 ,for the performances of the daily services and all duties1 ordinary and extraordinary1 within this edifice1 more than eight hundred persons are employed4 ,five hundred masses are recited each day at the different altars3 all of which taking place during the early part of the day1 an idea may be formed of the business which goes on4 ,of the six or seven organs1 ,i have heard three playing at the same time in different parts of the church2 but so widely separated1 as by no means to interfere with each other's harmony4 ,one of them was one of the two great organs which face each other over the choir4 ,these two play a duet once a year1 on the day of the ,corpus4 ,the effect they produce is not so powerful as that produced at ,toledo1 but far more beautiful4 ,at ,toledo the two which correspond to these1 are assisted on that occasion by a third1 as powerful as both the others united1 placed over the portal of the south transept1 at an elevation of about seventy feet from the ground4 ,among the ceremonies of the cathedral of ,seville is one sufficiently unique to be deserving of notice4 ,el baile de los seis 7dance of the six71 is performed by eight youths--probably by six originally--every evening during the feast of the ,conception4 ,it takes place in front of the high-altar1 on which her statue is placed on that occasion4 ,the service is one of especial solemnity2 and1 as such1 accompanied1 unfortunately as on all such occasions1 by an orchestra of violins1 to the exclusion of the organs4 ,the singing commences at four o'clock in the afternoon1 in the choir1 and continues until half-past six1 when all move in procession through the great railing1 across the transept1 and ascend the flight of steps which lead to the ,capilla ,mayor4 ,here they take their seats according to rank1 on benches placed in rows from east to west1 fronting a space which is left open down the centre1 in front of the altar4 ,the orchestra occupies a corner near the railing2 and on the two front benches are seated--four facing four--the eight youths1 dressed in the ancient ,spanish costume1 all sky blue silk and white muslin1 and holding each his hat1 also light blue1 with a flowing white feather4 ,the chorus now recommences1 but speedily drops2 when the orchestra sounds a beautiful air in the waltz measure4 ,this is played once by the instruments alone1 and joined the second time by the voices of the eight boys1 or youths of the age of sixteen to eighteen2 who1 after having accompanied a short time1 start to their legs1 and continue in the same strain4 ,at the next reprise they all1 as if by word of command1 place their hats on their heads1 and one or two minutes after1 the chant still continuing1 advance1 and meet in the centre1 then return each to his place2 advance a second time1 and turn round each other1 using the waltz step4 ,after singing and dancing for about a quarter of an hour1 the voices are exchanged for the sounds of castagnettes1 which they have held all this time in their hands1 and the measure becomes more animated2 and thus they terminate the performance4 ,the same ceremony is repeated each night of the seven2 only varying the air of the waltz1 of which they have two4 ,this ceremony1 now belonging exclusively to the cathedral of ,seville1 was originally performed in some other cathedrals2 but has been gradually laid aside in all the others1 having been found to occasion irreverent behaviour among a portion of the spectators4 ,it was originally introduced among the observances in honour of the anniversary of the ,conception1 as a natural manifestation of joy2 and such a genuine ,spanish bolero would have been3 but the slow time of the music1 and the measured movements1 adopted for the purpose of suiting the performance to the solemnity of the place1 have changed the nature of the dance1 and deprived it of everything approaching to cheerfulness4 ,,letter ,,xx4 ,,spanish ,,beggars4 ,,hairdressing4 ,,the ,,giralda4 ,,casa ,,de ,,pilatos4 ,,monasteries4 ,,italica4 ,seville4 ,mendicity is one of the ,curiosities--and not the least picturesque one--of this antique country4 ,there should be a ,mendicity ,society for its preservation1 together with other legacies of the middle ages4 ,an entertaining book might be filled with its annals and anecdotes4 ,nowhere1 ,i should think1 can beggary be a more lucrative calling4 ,the convents having been the inexhaustible providence of these tribes1 on their suppression the well-born and bred ,spaniards consider the charge to have devolved upon them1 in the absence of all possible legislation on the subject3 and few1 especially of the fair sex1 turn a deaf ear to the mute eloquence of the open hand4 ,even a stranger1 if possessed of an ear1 resists with difficulty the graceful appeal of the well trained proficient3 ,noble caballero1 un ochavito por ,dios4--,a blind girl made no request2 but exclaimed--,oh that the ,virgin of ,carmen may preserve your sight6 ,the mendicants are classified1 and assume every form of external humanity4 ,being in the coach-office near the ,plaza del ,duque1 a tall well-dressed man1 dangling a dark kid glove1 entered1 and1 walking up to the book-keeper1 after having carefully closed the door1 made some communication to him in a low voice4 ,the other replied in a similar tone1 and they parted with mutual bows4 ,i was puzzled on the man's turning to me and observing that the beggars were very annoying in ,seville2 but still certain my conjecture could not but be erroneous1 ,i said you don't mean to say that your acquaintance--,oh1 no acquaintance2 ,i never saw him before3 he only came to beg4 ,this species of cavallero pauper should by no means be encouraged2 he is not of the picturesque sort4 ,nowhere do the wretches look their character better than at ,seville2 as all admirers of ,murillo can testify1 without consulting any other nature than his canvass4 ,but these consider they confer a sort of obligation on the individual they condescend to apply to4 ,nothing can exceed their astonishment and indignation when refused4 ,their great highway is the superb polished mosaic marble of the ,cathedral2 where they divide the authority with the embroidered dignitaries of the choir4 ,it is useless to hope for an instant's leisure for the contemplation of this unique temple1 until you have disposed of its entire population of ragged despots4 ,a sort of chivalrous etiquette is observed1 in virtue of which a female chorus is the first to form your escort from pillar to pillar4 ,these dismissed1 you are delivered over to the barefooted ,murillos4 ,there are two modes of escape4 ,the rich man should go in with his two hands filled with coin1 and distribute to all1 even to many who will return for a second contribution before he has done4 ,but if economical1 you may attain the same end1 and more permanently1 by sacrificing four or five days to walking up and down the nave1 without looking at anything1 but simply undergoing the persecution of the mob4 ,after the fourth visit you will be left in peace4 ,these counsels ,i am competent to give you from dreadful experience2 more dreadful from my having pursued a middle course4 ,to one barefooted and rotten-scalped embryo brigand ,i only gave a two-quarto piece 7halfpenny7 about equal in real consequence to twopence in ,england4 ,if you have ever seen1 in the era of mail coaches1 the look of quiet surprise on the countenance of the well-fed charioteer1 who1 having1 after the sixth or seventh stage1 opened the door1 and muttered from behind his cache-nez the usual coachman1 gen'lemen received a long-searched-for deprecatory sixpence from some careful knight with a false shirt-collar--you have noticed the self-same look1 which was leisurely transferred by the urchin from the piece of copper in the open palm to my face1 and back to the piece of copper4 ,instead1 however1 of restoring it to me1 his indignation seemed to inspire him with a sudden resolution4 ,he rushed to a kneeling ,seorita a few paces distant1 and interrupting her devotions by a pull at the side of her mantilla1 he showed the coin in the open hand1 while with the other he pointed to the culprit4 ,if he meditated revenge1 he should have made another choice1 instead of deranging a garment1 from the folds of which a real ,andalucian mouth and pair of eyes1 turning full on me1 aimed a smile which1 ,i need not inform you1 was not dear at two quartos4 ,could such a smile have been natural1 and the expression of mere curiosity1 or was it intended for a death-wound1 dealt for another's vengeance8 and did the velvet language of those eyes signify a horrible ,pallas te hoc vulnere1 in favour of the ragamuffin ,i had offended8 ,at all events1 the incident lost him a more munificent remuneration1 by driving me from the spot1 and expelling from my head1 a project previously formed1 of inviting him to my fonda to be sketched4 ,with regard to the oft and still recurring subject of ,spanish beauty1 you are hereby warned against giving ear to what may be said by tourists1 who1 by way of taking a new view of an old subject1 simply give the lie to their predecessors4 ,it is true1 that in the central provinces1 the genuine characteristic ,moro-,iberian beauty is rare1 and that there is little of any other sort to replace it2 but this is not the case with ,andalucia1 where you may arrive fresh from the perusal of the warm effusions of the most smitten of poets1 and find the ,houris of real flesh and blood1 by no means overrated4 ,one of their peculiar perfections extends to all parts of the ,peninsula4 ,this is the hair2 everywhere your eye lights upon some passing specimen of these unrivalled masses of braided jet2 at which not unfrequently natives of the same sex turn with an exclamation--,que pelo tan hermoso6 ,i surprised the other day a village matron1 whose toilette1 it being a holiday afternoon1 was in progress in no more secluded a tocador than the middle of the road4 ,the rustic lady's-maid 7whether the practice be more or less fashionable ,i know not7 had placed on a stool1 within reach of her right hand as she stood behind her seated mistress1 a jug of fresh water4 ,this did she lift1 just as ,i approached1 up to her mouth1 into which she received as large a portion of its contents as could be there accommodated2 while with her left hand she grasped the extremity of a mass of silken hair1 black as the raven's wing1 and an ell in length4 ,both hands now1 stroking down the mass1 spread it out so as to present a horizontal surface of as large an extent as possible1 when1 suddenly1 from the inflated cheeks of the abigail1 re-issued with a loud sound the now tepid liquid1 and bathed the entire surface1 which it seemed to render1 if possible1 still more glossy than before4 ,the rest of the duty of the hands appeared to consist in repeatedly separating and replacing the handfuls1 until the same proceeding was reacted4 ,the entrance to the ,giralda is outside the cathedral4 ,before we make the ascent1 we will walk to the extremity of the ,moorish enclosure of the orange-court1 along the raised pavement which surrounds the whole4 ,at the angle there is an antique shaft of granite1 higher than the rest of those placed at equal distances along the edge of the pavement4 ,from that point the proportions of the tower are seen to advantage1 while you are at the same time sufficiently near to observe the details of the carving1 and of the windows1 with their delicately formed columns of rare marbles2 and to lose in a great measure the effect of the subsequent additions1 which surmount and disfigure the work of ,geber4 ,the ,arabian part of the building is a square of about forty-five feet1 and measures in elevation four times its width4 ,the ornaments are not exactly alike on all the four sides4 ,on the north side 7our present view7 the tracery commences at a height of eighty feet1 up to which point the wall of brick is perfectly plain and smooth1 with only the interruption of two windows1 placed one above the other in the centre4 ,the ornament1 from its commencement to the summit1 is divided into two lofty stories1 surmounted by a third1 of half the height of one of the others4 ,the two first are divided vertically into three parts by narrow stripes of the plain wall4 ,the centre portions contain two windows in each story1 one over the other1 making1 with the two in the lower portion1 six altogether1 which are at equal distances from each other4 ,the form of these windows is varied1 and in all uncommonly elegant2 some are double1 with a marble column supporting their two arches1 and all are ornamented round the arches with beautiful tracery1 and furnished with marble balconies4 ,at one of the balconies1 the ,muezzin1 in ,mahometan times was accustomed to present himself at each of the hours appointed for prayer1 and to pronounce the sentences ordained by that religion for calling the people4 ,the half-story at the summit is ornamented with a row of arches1 supported by pilasters4 ,on the top of the tower were seen originally1 four gilded balls of different sizes1 one over the other1 diminishing upwards2 the iron bar on which they were fixed1 was struck by lightning1 and gave way1 leaving the balls to roll over2 since which period they were never restored to their place4 ,the additional buildings were not erected until the seventeenth century4 ,they are not in themselves inelegant1 with the exception of the portion immediately rising from the old tower1 and containing the bells4 ,this portion is of the same width as the tower1 and appears to weigh it down with its heavy effect2 on the summit of the whole1 at about three hundred feet from the ground1 is a colossal statue of bronze1 representing ,faith1 holding in one hand a shield1 and in the other an olive-branch4 ,by means of the shield1 the statue obeys the movements of the wind1 and thus gives the name of ,giralda 7weather-cock7 to the tower4 ,an interior tower1 rather more than twenty feet square1 runs up the whole height of the ,moorish portion of the building2 between which and the external walls an easy ascent is contrived on an inclined plane4 ,the necessity of introducing light throughout the ascent accounts for the different elevation of the windows and ornaments of the different sides2 but the architect has so managed this difficulty1 that no bad effect is produced in the external view4 ,at the lower part of the tower the ascent is sufficiently wide to admit of the passage of two men on horseback abreast2 but it becomes narrower as it approaches the summit4 ,queen ,christina is said to have been drawn up in a small carriage4 ,the walls1 both of the inner and outer tower1 increase in thickness as they rise1 and as the ascending plane decreases in width3 a plan which appears opposed to the principle usually adopted by modern architects4 ,it is known that ,geber was the architect of the ,giralda1 but no certainty exists respecting its date4 ,the ,spanish antiquarian ,don ,rodrigo ,caro supposes it to have been erected during the reign of ,benabet ,almucamus1 ,king of ,seville1 shortly before the appearance in ,spain of the ,almoravides2 but this is no more than a conjecture1 founded on the supposed wealth of that ,king1 who possessed larger states than his successors1 and who paid no tribute to the sovereigns of ,castile4 ,immediately over the highest story of the ,moorish tower is the belfry4 ,the bells are suspended on the centre of revolving beams1 which traverse the open arches of the four faces of the tower4 ,they are consequently in full view1 as they throw their somersets and send forth their lively clatter on a dia de fiesta4 ,their effect is very original1 and as unlike as possible to the monotonous and melancholy cadence of an ,english peal4 ,none of them are deep-toned nor solemn1 but all high and sharp3 so that being let loose in merry disorder1 and without tune1 they somehow appear to harmonize with the brilliant skies1 just as the descending ding-dong in ,england suits the gloom of the northern heavens4 ,leave ,seville1 and never shall their tones steal on your memory without your being transported into a blaze of bright sunshine4 ,in ,spain the houses of the grandees are not called palaces1 as those of the same rank in ,italy are usually termed4 ,there is not even an intermediate term1 such as mansion1--still less the hall--abbey1 or castle4 ,they have the last1 but only applied in cases in which it is correctly and legitimately applicable4 ,the ,arab expression alcazar1 composed of the article al and cazar1 is so like the ,spanish la casa 7the house71 that1 not having at hand a professor of ,arabic to consult1 ,i will risk the assertion that it bore the same meaning2 notwithstanding the opinion of several ,french writers who translate it chteau4 ,chenier1 author of the history of ,morocco1 derives it from the word ,caissar1 which he considers synonymous with ,csar3 but this derivation appears to admit of much doubt1 as the word would signify the ,emperor1 instead of his residence4 ,supposing it to signify the house1 it must no doubt have meant the principal1 or royal house4 ,at present the two words are admitted into the ,spanish language as one1 which is applied indiscriminately to royal town-residences1 whether castles or not1 as well as the term palacio4 ,but a private residence of whatever extent is modestly termed a house4 ,in this instance1 as in many others1 the proud contempt of high-sounding phraseology is common to ,spain and ,england1 where some of the most palace-like habitations are called ,wentworth ,house1 ,hatfield ,house1 ,burleigh ,house3 the very porters' lodges being sometimes such edifices as would claim the title of chteau in some other countries4 ,but this same haughty modesty is rather individual than collective1 and does not prevail as applied to towns and cities4 ,in public acts and addresses1 and even in the most homely precautionary warnings placarded at the corners of streets or promenades1 the form used is1--,the constitutional ,alcalde of this heroic and very invincible town of ,madrid1 or ,seville1 forbids1 or orders1 c42 and still more splendid epithets are found for the nation in general4 ,i don't know whether it has occurred to you that this progressive dereliction of consistency is universal in human nature1 although it assumes a variety of forms4 ,in the present instance modesty commences at home1 as they say charity should4 ,by the way1 if charity should commence at home1 together with the other affections of the heart1 such as patriotism1 then did the first ,brutus make a mistake4 ,if1 on the contrary1 his merit was great in sacrificing his son to his nation1 it follows1 that1 in causing his entire nation to be butchered the first time they were guilty of any encroachment on the rights of the rest of the world1 his glory would have increased in the ratio of one to some millions4 ,he either acted on a principle of justice1 or preferred the applause of his compatriots to the affection of his son4 ,if1 therefore1 an opportunity was ever afforded him of doing the world the above-mentioned act of justice at the expense of his countrymen1 and he abstained from it1--it being impossible to suppose a ,roman republican capable of a dereliction of principle--it is clear that he preferred the applause of his nation to that of the rest of the world2 and all becomes a question of taste4 ,but what1 you exclaim1 has the first or any other ,brutus to do with ,pilate's house1 the description of which is preceded by this long introduction8 ,and was not his murder of his son benevolence itself1 compared to the infliction of these digressions on your patience8 ,the ,casa de ,palatos is a palace belonging to the ,duke of ,medina ,coeli4 ,one of his ancestors is said to have built it in exact imitation of ,pontius ,pilate's palace in ,jerusalem1 and to have obtained possession of a large quantity of the ornaments and portable furniture belonging to the ancient building1 which1 on the completion of his edifice at ,seville1 he established1 each object in the place corresponding to that which it originally occupied4 ,a lofty wall1 filling the side of the small square1 called the ,plaza de ,pilatos1 and surmounted by a balustrade1 forms the outer enclosure of the palace4 ,you enter through a large plain arched doorway1 and pass through a court1 containing the porter's house1 and other out-buildings devoid of ornament4 ,a small door on the left leads from this enclosure to the principal court4 ,here you might imagine yourself still in the ,alcazar4 ,the ornament is in the same style2 only the arcades are inferior in lightness and beauty4 ,it contains1 however1 a fountain very superior to that of the principal court of the ,alcazar4 ,at the four angles are colossal statues of white marble1 representing deities of the ,grecian mythology4 ,they are antique1 and of ,roman origin4 ,under the arcades a series of busts of the ,roman emperors1 are placed round the walls2 the greater part of them are also antique4 ,on one side of this court is the chapel1 very small1 and entirely covered with ,arabesque ornament4 ,at one side is placed erect against the wall a black cross1 said to be a facsimile imitation of that actually carried by our ,saviour1 which occupied a similar situation in the palace at ,jerusalem4 ,its length is about seven feet1 and the thickness of the wood about four inches by two4 ,opposite to the cross is a ,madonna by ,raffaelle4 ,as no light enters the chapel1 excepting through a small door1 and that placed under the arcades1 and the picture is hung at a considerable height1 it can only be examined by the aid of a ladder1 which is kept near it1 and then only very imperfectly4 ,at the time the chapel was habitually used1 it probably contained candles always burning4 ,the great staircase is very ornamental and leads to several handsome suites of rooms4 ,there is a colonnade on one side of the garden1 under which lies a valuable collection of antique busts1 columns1 capitals1 and fragments of all sorts1 in most admired disorder4 ,the proprietor never visits this residence1 and every part of it is in a very neglected state4 ,seville lays claim to no less a founder than ,hercules4 ,a magnificent temple dedicated to him is said to have existed on the spot at present occupied by the parish church of ,san ,nicholas4 ,near it a statue of the demigod has been discovered1 together with six columns1 four of which are sunk so deeply in the earth that they cannot be brought to light4 ,the other two are placed on lofty pedestals1 and adorn the largest of the promenades of ,seville1 that called the ,alameda4 ,one of them is surmounted by the statue mentioned above1 and the other by one of ,julius ,csar4 ,venus is also stated to have shared with ,hercules the devotions of the ,sevillanos4 ,the existence of her worship in ancient times is placed beyond a doubt by the well authenticated martyrdom of ,saints ,justa and ,rufina1 condemned for refusing to do honour to the rites of that goddess1 and to figure in her processions4 ,these two martyrs to the ,christian faith have pursued1 on various subsequent occasions1 a conduct calculated to afford a degree of advantage to an adversary1 should he presume to accuse them of renegade propensities4 ,they have manifested themselves determined protectors of the ,arab tower1 on every occasion of its being threatened with danger4 ,numerous instances are on record2 the most remarkable of which1 is one that has given rise to much controversy1 and employed in more recent times the researches of learned men4 ,the tradition states1 that1 during an earthquake1 which took place in the year #aejd1 and of which a vivid description may be found at the end of a book1 called the ,regla ,vieja1 which exists in the archives of the cathedral--the two virgins were seen to support the tower and prevent it from falling1 surrounding it with their arms1 one on each side4 ,it is also related that1 on the occasion of a previous earthquake1 that of the year #acif1 voices were heard in the air1 articulated by demons1 crying1 ,throw it down1 throw it down2 and that others replied1 ,no1 we cannot1 for those villanous saints1 ,justa and ,rufina1 are guarding it4 ,for these reasons it is usual1 in paintings representing the ,giralda1 to place the figures of the two virgin ,saints supporting it1 one on either side2 and a small model thus supported by images of the two martyrs1 executed in wood1 is carried in the principal religious processions4 ,in all these representations1 the figures stand rather taller than the tower4 ,the hospital of ,la ,caridad is one of the principal attractions to strangers at ,seville2 for in its chapel is contained the picture1 which passes for the master-piece of ,murillo4 ,the chapel is narrow and lofty1 and the picture placed as near as possible to the ceiling4 ,a sight of it can only be obtained at an angle of about twenty degrees4 ,but the aching of the neck is unheeded during the examination of this superb picture4 ,it is called ,las ,aguas1 the ,waters4 ,moses has just struck the rock1 and stands in a simple and dignified attitude4 ,in the complete contentment of his countenance there may be traced a mingled expression of pity and gratitude1 as he looks on the scene which follows his action4 ,the artist has given proof of consummate talent in the choice and treatment of his subject2 which afforded him a variety of grouping1 of expression1 and of attitude1 of which few were capable of taking better advantage4 ,this picture is a specimen of his natural style1 and its success is considered1 and ,i think justly1 superior to that of any other of his works4 ,the imitation of material nature is here carried to as great perfection as in many of his paintings2 while at the same time nothing can surpass the poetry of the composition1 nor the exquisitely harmonious grouping of the men and animals4 ,in this last quality1 ,murillo is certainly unequalled4 ,he seems also in this instance1 to have reached the utmost limits of art in the expression of the countenances1 throughout the different groups1 whether employed in offering silent thanksgivings1 or entirely absorbed in the eager effort to obtain for their parched lips a draught of the bright liquid4 ,in the feeling displayed in these instances1 and so well represented1 there is1 it is true1 nothing elevated1 but still it is feeling2 and its materiality is amply made amends for1 by the chief personage of the scene1 in whose countenance nothing but the sublime can be traced4 ,had ,murillo not painted this picture and the ,saint ,elizabeth of ,hungary1 ,spanish art must have contented itself with the second rank1 and ,raphael would have continued without a rival4 ,these pictures occasion regret that such genius should have employed itself during a long period1 on works of a different sort4 ,the ,san ,antonio and a few others1 were no doubt productions worthy of the painter of the ,aguas1 and a hundred or two others are magnificent paintings2 but the time employed on some of these1 and on a still greater number of less prominent merit1 would have been more profitably devoted to the production of two or three which might have ranked with these giant creations of his talent4 ,in viewing either of these compositions1 the other speedily becomes present to the imagination1 and forces you to draw a comparison between them4 ,they have a sort of affinity in their subject as well as in their style4 ,the sufferers of the ,st4 ,elizabeth1 occupied with their torments and their gratitude1 answer to those of the ,aguas1 engrossed also with almost parallel feelings4 ,the ,moses1 tranquil and erect in the midst of the action which surrounds him1 is the exact pendant of the majestic figure and compassionate countenance of the youthful princess1 exercising her saintly charities4 ,these pictures ought to be companions in the same gallery1 were it possible for two such works to find their way into one and the same apartment4 ,but that would be a consummation as hopeless as finding ,st4 ,peter's and the ,duomo of ,milan in the same town2 ,naples and ,seville in one province1 a ,london and a ,paris in one country1 an ,ariosto and a ,byron in the same language4 ,it has more than once occurred to me1 since ,i have seen these two pictures1 that were ,raphael's ,spasimo and ,transfiguration placed on one side of a room1 and these two on the other1 and the choice offered me which pair ,i would possess1 ,i should never be able to come to a decision4 ,another large picture by ,murillo1 the multiplying of the ,loaves in the ,desert1 is suspended opposite the ,aguas1 and at the same elevation4 ,on attempting to examine it1 you are forcibly reminded by certain acute sensations in the region of the neck1 of the unnatural position it has so long maintained1 and you leave this picture1 together with two others1 placed near the entrance of the chapel1 for a subsequent visit4 ,in the church of the ,faubourg ,triana1 on the right hand after passing the bridge1 are some excellent pictures1 particularly a ,conception by ,murillo4 ,the multitude of paintings left by this artist is incredible1 when to all those scattered through ,spain1 ,france1 and ,england1 are added those preserved in this his native town4 ,almost all the good houses in ,seville contain collections of pictures2 and all the collections have their ,murillos4 ,there are no fewer than sixteen in the gallery of the ,canon1 ,don ,manuel ,cepero2 but this is the largest of the private collections1 and the best1 as it ought to be1 since it is contained in ,murillo's house4 ,it is the residence occupied by him during the latter part of his life1 and in which he died4 ,its dimensions and distribution are handsome4 ,at the back of it there is a garden of limited extent1 but in which not an inch of space is thrown away4 ,where there remains no room for choice flowers and orange trees1 the walls are painted to prolong the illusion4 ,the ,canon possesses also several good paintings by ,italian masters4 ,i counted likewise four ,rembrandts1 and two of ,rubens4 ,among the other private collections1 that of the ,alcalde ,don ,pedro ,garcia is one of the richest2 it contains a ,santa ,barbara of ,cano1 an exquisite picture4 ,a ,saint ,joseph by ,murillo1 in the collection of the ,french ,consul 7a native of ,seville7 is admirable4 ,in most of the churches there is sufficient of this sort of attraction to make them worth a visit4 ,in the convents nothing is left2 in fact they no longer exist as convents4 ,there may be one or two remaining in ,seville1 but ,i did not hear of them4 ,the monastery of ,jeronimites1 and the ,chartreuse--both situated in the environs--were the most considerable religious establishments of ,seville4 ,they are converted1 one into a school1 and the other into a porcelain manufactory4 ,this last1 the ,chartreuse1 contains in its church and refectory1 plentiful traces of its former magnificence4 ,an ,englishman has purchased the monastery with three or four acres of ground1 containing the immediate dependencies2 and he is occupied with the labours which necessarily precede its appearance in its new character1 replacing the butteries1 kitchens1 storehouses1 and cells1 by rows of pudding-shaped baking-houses4 ,he has1 however1 spared the chapel1 which is to continue in its former state4 ,all the stalls1 the altar1 and other immoveable furniture1 remain as he found them4 ,the pictures and statues had of course been previously removed4 ,the woodwork is inimitable--the best ,i have seen in ,spain2 it would be impossible in painting to represent with more delicacy1 the very texture of the drapery1 the very veins of the hands1 and hair of the beards--of figures of a quarter the natural dimensions4 ,you are filled with astonishment1 that the infinite patience necessary for this mechanical labour should have accompanied the genius which conceived and executed the incomparable figures and heads4 ,the refectory1 of which the ceiling is the principal ornament1 is to be the great show-room for the display of the china4 ,the fortunate manufacturer inhabits1 with his family1 the prior's residence--one of the most elegant habitations in the world3 surrounding a court1 which contains of course its white marble fountain and colonnades3 and he is in treaty for the purchase of the orange-grove1 the park of the monastery4 ,this pleasure-ground is ornamented here and there with ,kiosks1 from which are obtained views of ,seville1 and the intervening ,guadalquivir4 ,on the confiscation of this monastery1 several magnificent pictures disappeared1 a few of which have since been placed in the cathedral4 ,two alabaster monuments1 belonging to the family of ,medina ,cli1 were also removed2 they are placed in a church at present under repair4 ,they are erect1 and fit into the wall2 measuring about forty feet in height4 ,their upper portion is adorned with several well-executed small statues4 ,the other convent--that dedicated to ,s4 ,geronimo1 is situated on the opposite side of the river1 about a mile higher up4 ,it is not so beautiful as the ,cartuja1 but on a grander scale4 ,the principal court is magnificent2 it is surrounded with upper and lower arcades1 respectively of the ,ionic and ,doric orders3 the apartments and church are of corresponding extent2 but have either been deprived of their ornaments1 or were originally but sparingly decorated4 ,a ci-devant governor of ,seville--a general officer1 very distinguished as a linguist1 has turned schoolmaster1 and taken up his abode here4 ,the day of my visit happened to be the general's birthday1 and a scene of much festivity presented itself4 ,the schoolmaster's successor in his former post at ,seville1 had arrived1 attended by the band of a cavalry regiment2 and the great court having been converted into a ball-room1 the marble arcades were made to ring with the thrilling cadences of the hautbois and clarionette--by way of a fitting afterpiece to the tragic chants of former days4 ,the relatives and friends of the students were present1 so that the youthful dancers were well-provided with partners4 ,the performances were ,french quadrilles1 ,english hornpipes1 ,german waltzes1 ,russian mazurkas1 and ,spanish fandangos4 ,i had arrived too late for the first part of the entertainment1 which consisted of a bull-fight1 for which a temporary arena had been enclosed4 ,the bulls were what are called novillos--that is1 scarcely more than calves2 as the full-grown animals would have been more than a match for their juvenile antagonists4 ,the ruins of the ,roman city of ,italica1 to which ,i have already alluded1 are situated four miles from ,seville in ascending the river--and on the opposite bank4 ,the whole town is underground1 with the exception of a few houses in the part in which excavations have been made1 and of the amphitheatre which occupies an eminence4 ,no notice was taken in modern times of the existence of this buried town1 until towards the end of the last century1 when the remains of the amphitheatre1 the only portion of the ruins which were visible1 drew the attention of travellers3 and the authorities of ,seville received orders to commence excavating4 ,the search yielded a large quantity of valuable remains2 a temple was discovered1 in the neighbourhood of which were found several statues and capitals of columns4 ,a choice was made of the objects in the best state of preservation1 which were forwarded to ,madrid in order to form a museum4 ,large quantities of coins were also sent1 and collections of household utensils1 and ornaments4 ,the ,arabs1 who did not consider these ,roman relics worthy objects of antiquarian research1 nevertheless had either discovered and laid open a large portion of the town1 or were themselves its destroyers4 ,from it they extracted the large quantities of marble columns and slabs with which ,seville is filled4 ,the mutilated statues1 together with several funereal monuments1 found in later times1 and not considered deserving of the journey to ,madrid1 have been deposited in a large room in the ,alcazar of ,seville1 where they are now exhibited4 ,no record exists of the foundation of ,italica4 ,its annals are traced to the time of ,scipio ,africanus1 who1 on the completion of his conquest of ,spain1 and the final expulsion of the ,carthaginians1 finding himself embarrassed by the number of wounded and sick among his troops1 established them in this town under the protection of a garrison4 ,he gave to the town its name of ,italica1#ab its previous name being ,sancius3 the real situation of ,italica has been the subject of much controversy4 ,like the ,grecian cities1 which claimed each to be the birthplace of ,homer1 several of the towns in the neighbourhood of ,seville are candidates for the honour of being representatives of the ancient ,italica2 but ample proof exists of the identity of these ruins with that city4#ac ,the ,historia general1 written by ,alonso el ,sabio1 book #a41 chap1 ,,xv41 speaks of ,italica as a place of much importance in ancient times1 in allusion to the invasion of a people called the ,almunizes4 ,he adds1 in the antiquated ,spanish of his time1 ,las nuevas fueron por todas las tierras de como aquellas gentes avian ganado a ,espaa1 e todos los de las islas quel oyeron crecieron les corazones por fazer otro tal1 e ayuntaron muy grandes navios1 e vinieronse para ,espaa1 e entraron por cuatro partes4 ,los que entraron por ,cadiz vinieron ,guadalquibir arriba1 e llegaron a ,italica e los de la villa salieron e lidiaron con ellos1 e los de fuera entraron con ellos de vuelta por medio de la villa1 e mataron los a todos1 e ganaron la villa4 ,it is not clear what invasion is here alluded to4 ,the town of ,italica was one of the six or seven in these provinces which possessed the title of municipia2 a superior one to that of colonia1 from its involving the privilege of retaining its ancient laws and customs1 while on the colonies those of ,rome were imposed4 ,it was among the cities which sheltered some of the earliest converts to ,christianity4 ,its first bishop was the martyr ,saint ,geruncio1 put to death in prison4 ,the prison1 being considered sanctified1 from its containing the saint's remains1 became subsequently the resort of pious votaries from all parts of the province4 ,in the ,mozarabic ritual there is a hymn for the day of this saint1 one of the stanzas of which fixes the epoque of his life and martyrdom1 at that of the apostles4#ad ,the centurion ,cornelius1 mentioned in the ,acts of the ,apostles1 as converted by the preaching of ,st4 ,peter1 was1 it is said1 a native of this city1 and commanded a cohort raised in his native place4 ,the date of the destruction of ,italica1 is as uncertain as that of its origin4 ,the fact of its existence during almost the entire period of the ,gothic dominion1 is established1 by the presence of its bishops being recorded at the different councils4 ,it is conjectured that its destruction was the work of the ,arabs1 who were no sooner in possession of ,seville1 than they considered it imprudent to allow so large a town to be in the hands of enemies in their immediate neighbourhood4 ,this supposition of ,spanish antiquaries seems hazarded without sufficient reflection2 since1 in the first place1 had the occupants of ,italica occasioned the ,arabs any uneasiness1 nothing was easier than to occupy the place themselves2 and secondly1 the ruins bear strong symptoms of having been reduced to their present state by some convulsion of nature1 rather than by human agency3 not to mention the coins discovered in large quantities1 which would not have been neglected by human destroyers4 ,it is not likely that the destruction of so considerable a place by the conquerors of the province1 at the time they were too few to defend it1 would have been overlooked by their historians--who make no allusion to the event4 ,the present appearance is that of a green undulating hill1 which no one would imagine to be composed of the remains of streets1 palaces1 temples1 and market-places4 ,the upper portion only of the amphitheatre remains above-ground4 ,its form is slightly oval1 nearly approaching to a circle4 ,the greatest diameter is three hundred and twenty-five feet4 ,it has twenty rows of seats1 half of which are buried2 each seat is two feet and a half in depth1 and two in height4 ,part of the ,podium remains2 and enough of the entrance1 to distinguish that it consisted of three large arches4 ,it was constructed with ,roman solidity4 ,nothing less than an earthquake could have toppled over the masses of masonry1 which appear in their confusion like solid rocks4 ,a very small portion of the ruins has been explored3 and part of that1 for want of being sufficiently cleared out1 is again buried in earth1 and the work is discontinued4 ,the objects now above-ground1 consist of five or six tessalated floors1 two of which have been considered of sufficient value to be walled in1 and locked up1 but without being roofed4 ,these ruins are well worth a visit1 although the road to them from ,seville1 bears terrible symptoms of having been constructed before ,macadam's day2 perhaps even before that of the ,scipios4 ,at the distance of a few hundred yards from the nearest portion of the ruined town is situated the village of ,santi-ponce1 in which is the convent of ,s4 ,isidoro1 of the order of ,st4 ,jerome4 ,the church contains the tombs of ,don ,alonzo ,perez de ,guzman1 surnamed the ,good1 and of his wife ,doa ,maria ,alonzo ,coronel1 founders of the ducal house of ,medina ,sidonia4 ,this family obtained from ,ferdinand the ,fourth1 a grant of ,santi-ponce and old ,seville 7,italica71 with the district1 and temporal and spiritual jurisdiction4 ,don ,sancho had already rewarded the services and tried fidelity of ,perez de ,guzman by presenting him with the town of ,medina ,sidonia4 ,an anecdote is told of him worthy of a ,roman republican4 ,being governor of ,tarifa under ,sancho the ,fourth1 he had to defend the town against the ,infant1 ,don ,juan1 who had revolted against his brother4 ,this prince1 learning that a child of ,guzman was in his power1 being at nurse in the environs of the town1 sent for it2 and1 presenting himself before the walls1 declared to the governor that he would kill the child1 if the town were not immediately surrendered4 ,guzman replied by drawing his sword1 and throwing it down to the prince1 who had the barbarity to order the infant to be murdered before his father's eyes4 ,,letter ,,xxi4 ,,private ,,houses1 ,,and ,,local ,,customs ,,in ,,seville4 ,seville4 ,the greater number of private houses are situated in an interminable labyrinth of winding streets1 between the ,calle de la ,sierpe1 and ,plaza de ,san ,francisco and the city wall1 which connects the ,aqueduct of ,carmona with the ,alcazar4 ,it is the ,south-eastern half of the city4 ,to the west of the ,calle de la ,sierpe there are also a few streets containing private residences1 but they are not in so large a proportion4 ,some of the most elegant are1 however1 on this side2 which being less ,moorish and more modern1 is less chary of its attractions1 and allows a part of its decoration to enliven the external faades2 while its spacious doorways frequently open to the view of the passer-by a gay perspective of gardens and courts4 ,the sunny balcony1 crowded with a crimson forest of cactuses1 is not more attractive to the sight1 than the more mysterious vista beneath it1 of retreating colonnades1 mingled with orange and pomegranate trees1 through which the murmur of the fountain is scarcely audible4 ,few cities present more charms to the wanderer than one in which the houses offer a combination so luxurious as is met with in the greater number of those of ,seville4 ,the cool summer rooms opening into the court1 in which the drawing-room furniture is arranged on all sides of a fountain1 plentifully supplied from the aqueduct of ,carmona3 and1 on the upper floor1 the winter apartments1 chosen from their being better lighted1 for the deposit of a collection of pictures and these almost always excellent1--and opening to the gallery2 to which1 during this season1 the furniture having been removed from below1 is placed1 together with the work frames and portable musical instruments1 on the side exposed to the sun4 ,one sees these houses and their amiable and happy-looking inhabitants1 and imagines there is no life to be compared to it4 ,yet the experiment may be made1 and fail to answer the expectations of the stranger1 who1 confident in his discovery of the road to happiness1 may have pitched his tent in the midst of these bewitching regions4 ,can it be fatality--or is it essential in human nature1 to find ever the least felicity there1 where it looks for the greatest8 ,the experiment1 ,i say1 was made4 ,an ,englishman1 possessing every advantage of taste1 talent1 and wealth1 took up his residence here1 resolved to devote the remainder of his days to the peaceable enjoyments of a literary and social life4 ,thanks to his literary propensities1 we are enabled to judge of the result of the trial4 ,in a book published by the person to whom ,i allude1 we find that no one could be less satisfied with his lot4 ,seville and the ,sevillanos meet with no mercy at his hands1 and must1 if we may judge by his dislike of them1 have rendered his life a burden4 ,this1 however1 is a single example1 and insufficient to deter others from the attempt4 ,it may be that this individual had not entered fully into the spirit of ,andalucian existence4 ,every detail of life being here adapted to the place and its customs and climate1 no custom can be erred against with impunity--that is1 without the forfeit of some corresponding advantage4 ,seville presents two so different aspects during the two opposite seasons of the year1 that to be well understood it should be visited at both4 ,during the winter1 the existence does not materially differ from that of the inhabitants of most other ,european towns2 excepting that the intercourse of society is subjected to less formality4 ,cards of invitation are rarely made use of2 and you are not1 consequently1 exposed to the annoyance of seeing and hearing your house invaded by a dense crowd1 on a night you have appointed a month before1 without any possibility of foreseeing whether you would be disposed or not on that particular night to undergo such a toil4 ,these crowds are1 ,i believe1 unheard of in ,seville2 but those who are pleased in each other's society1 know where to find each other2 and without waiting for invitations1 small circles are formed every evening1 from which all crushing1 fatigue1 and intense dressing are excluded4 ,the winter is also a more advantageous season for the stranger1 who would be totally debarred by the summer heats from the activity necessary for the satisfaction of his curiosity1 in visiting the objects of interest contained in and around ,seville4 ,on the other hand1 the summer season offers to his contemplation the successful attainment of a mode of existence suited to the burning climate2 a problem found to be solved but in few instances4 ,the first and most essential arrangement appears to be the turning night into day1 and vice vers1 as far as regards society and all locomotion4 ,no one leaves his house until long after sunset1 and visiting commences some hours later4 ,the morning being consequently the time for repose1 and the breakfast hour nevertheless remaining the same all the year round1 the siesta is very essential1 and is judiciously placed between the dinner1 which terminates at four1 and the hour for movement--nine1 when the ,sevillano1 refreshed by three or four hours sleep1 and a fresh toilette1 is infinitely better disposed for the evening's amusements than the denizen of more northern climes1 who rises at that or a later hour from the chief repast of the day1 and is put en train by the less natural and less durable stimulants of the table4 ,this mode of life presents other numerous advantages4 ,a very prominent one is the inviolable division of time between society and solitude4 ,we suppose the hour for rising eight1--immediately after the chocolate1--that of breakfast eleven4 ,the intervening hours are solitary1 and are frequently divided between the pillow and the toilette2 while they are sometimes devoted to more useful occupations1 and added to by earlier risers4 ,from the family meeting at breakfast until the dinner hour1 three1 the time may be employed in business1 reading1 in fact1 in every one's habitual pursuits4 ,no intrusion is to be feared4 ,no accursed idler lounges in to interrupt with his compliments1 or gossip1 your letter to your lawyer1 or1 if you are a lawyer yourself1 that to your client2 nor is the conscience of scrupulous porters burdened with the mendacious not at home4 ,these hours are sacred1 and guaranteed by the very air1 which renders the streets impassable1 but leaves the cool court protected from the sun's ray by the toldo1 7canvas awning spread at a level with the roof1 and which is reefed up at night like a sail17 and refreshed by its ever-murmuring fountain and cool marble pavement1 to the peaceable enjoyment of its owners4 ,the female portion of the family are thus enabled to devote themselves to household occupations1 or to their favourite employments1 without having to undergo1 until the second getting up in the evening1 the fever of a complete toilette1 which would1 during the day1 be insupportable4 ,the time thus devoted to society1 is amply sufficient2 as it may be prolonged1 as each party feels inclined1 from an hour or two after sunset1 until the returning rays drive all back to their cool retreat4 ,the night of the festival of ,st4 ,john is1 in ,seville1 sacred1 from remote time1 to amusement and festivity4 ,during the five or six hours of darkness accorded by the ,midsummer sun1 the banks of the ,guadalquivir echo the gay melodious laugh1 which enlivens the animated buzz of the crowd2 and the morning ray gilds the upper windows of the deserted houses before their doors are opened to the supper-craving population4 ,the rite practised on this occasion is marked by a simplicity altogether antique4 ,the youth of ,seville1 that is the masculine portion1 have provided themselves with small boxes1 containing a sort of sugar-plum of exquisite flavour4 ,one of these is held between the finger and thumb of the cavallero1 from the moment he sets foot on the promenade4 ,on the approach of a party of ladies he endeavours to distinguish1 as far off as the gloom permits1 the features or dress of an already selected object of preference2 or1 if still free to make a selection1 some countenance possessed of sufficient attraction to determine his choice4 ,on discovering the owner of either of these requisites1 he watches a favourable opportunity1 and approaching the lady1 offers the bonbon4 ,the seorita--of course unmarried--thus selected1 is obliged to accept the compliment if properly offered1 as well as the arm of the cavallero during the rest of the night2 and1 on arriving at her house1 he receives from her parents1 or chaperon1 as the case may be1 an invitation to supper4 ,should the lady be desirous of avoiding the compliment1 of the approach of which she is usually aware1 she must exercise her ingenuity in putting obstacles in the way of the attempt4 ,in this effort many are successful1 since the peculiar mode of proceeding1 obligatory on those who make the offer1 affords certain facilities4 ,the condition is not binding on the fair object of the compliment1 unless the lips receive the bonbon immediately from the finger and thumb of the cavalier4 ,this is a source of no small amusement to the seoritas at the expense of strangers from other provinces of ,spain4 ,conscious of being the object of preference of some young beginner1 or stranger uninitiated in the mysteries of the rite--and who1 let it be understood1 does not happen to be an object of preference with them--they will afford him every facility of approach1 and on receiving the present in the hand1 will repulse without mercy the luckless wight1 whose retiring steps are accompanied by peals of laughter from all the party4 ,the month of ,june is likewise distinguished by the procession of the ,corpus ,christi4 ,on this occasion all the principal streets are protected from the sun by canvas awnings2 and from the windows of every house draperies are suspended1 the materials of which are more or less rich according to the means of their respective proprietors4 ,from an early hour of the morning1 ushered in by sunshine and the gay orchestra of the ,giralda bells1 the vast marble pavement of the cathedral begins to disappear beneath the momentarily increasing crowd4 ,here all classes are mingled2 but the most conspicuous are the arrivals from the surrounding villages1 distinguished by their more sunburnt complexions and the showy colours of their costume1 contrasted with the uniformly dark tints of the attire of the ,sevillanos4 ,here are seen also in great numbers1 accompanied by their relatives1 the gay cigarreras1 whose acquaintance we shall presently make in the fabrica de tabaco4 ,the instinctive coquetry discernible1 no less in the studied reserve of their looks than in the smart step and faultless nicety of costume1 indicates how easy would be the transition to the quality of the still more piquant but somewhat less moral maja4 ,the black satin1 low-quartered shoe is of a different material2 but the snow-white stocking1 and dark green skirt the same--and the black-velvet bordered mantilla is the identical one1 which was held tight to the chin1 when passing1 the evening before1 under the city walls on the return from the manufactory to the faubourg at the other extremity of ,seville4 ,the procession1 headed by a band of music1 and accompanied by the dignitaries of the diocese1 and civil authorities of the province1 bearing cierges1 winds through the principal streets1 and re-enters the church to the sound of the two magnificent organs1 never heard in unison except on this anniversary4 ,the exterior of the principal portal is ornamented on this occasion with a sort of curtain1 which is said to contain upwards of three thousand yards of crimson velvet1 bordered with gold lace4 ,the columns of the centre nave are also completely attired from top to bottom with coverings of the same material4 ,the value of the velvet employed1 is stated at nearly ten thousand pounds4 ,christmas-day is also solemnized at ,seville1 with much zeal2 but the manner of doing it honour presents more of novelty than splendour4 ,at the early hour of seven the parish churches are completely filled4 ,the organ pours forth1 from that time until the termination of the service1 an uninterrupted succession of airs1 called seguidillas1 from the dance to which they are adapted4 ,on the gallery1 which adjoins the organ-loft of each church1 are established five or six muscular youths1 selected for their untiring activity4 ,they are provided each with a tambourine1 and their duty consists in drawing from it as much1 and as varied sound as it will render without coming to pieces4 ,with this view they enter upon the amiable contest1 and try1 during three or four hours1 which of their number1 employing hands1 knees1 feet1 and elbows in succession1 can produce the most racking intonations4 ,on the pavement immediately below1 there is generally a group1 composed of the friends of the performers1 as may be discerned from the smiles of intelligence directed upwards and downwards4 ,some of these appear1 from the animated signs of approbation and encouragement1 with which they reward each more than usually violent concussion1 to be backers of favourite heroes4 ,during all this time one or two priests are engaged before the altar in the performance of a series of noiseless ceremonies2 and the pavement of the body of the church is pressed by the knees of a dense crowd of devotees4 ,the propensity to robbery and assassination1 attributed by several tourists to the population of this country1 has been much exaggerated4 ,the imagination of the stranger is usually so worked upon by these accounts1 as to induce him never to set foot outside the walls of whatever city he inhabits1 without being well armed4 ,as far as regards the environs of ,seville1 this precaution is superfluous4 ,they may be traversed in all directions1 at all events within walking distance1 or to the extent of a moderate ride1 without risk4 ,far from exercising violence1 the peasants never fail1 in passing1 to greet the stranger with a respectful salutation4 ,but ,i cannot be guarantee for other towns or environs which ,i have not visited4 ,it is certain that equal security does not exist nearer the coast1 on the frequented roads which communicate between ,san ,lucar1 ,xeres1 and ,cadiz2 nor in the opposite direction1 throughout the mountain passes of the ,sierra ,morena4 ,but this state of things is far from being universal4 ,i would much prefer passing a night on a country road in the neighbourhood of ,seville1 to threading the maze of streets1 which form the south-eastern portion of the town1 mentioned above as containing the greater number of the residences of private families4 ,this quarter is not without its perils4 ,in fact1 if dark deeds are practised1 no situation could possibly be better suited to them4 ,these ,arab streets wind1 and twist1 and turn back on themselves like a serpent in pain4 ,every ten yards presents a hiding-place4 ,there is just sufficient lighting up at night to prevent your distinguishing whether the street is clear or not3 and the ground-floors of the houses1 in the winter season1 are universally deserted4 ,an effectual warning was afforded me1 almost immediately on my arrival at ,seville1 against frequenting this portion of the town without precaution after nightfall4 ,an acquaintance1 a young ,sevillano1 who had been my daily companion during the first five or six days which followed my arrival1 was in the habit of frequenting with assiduity1 some of the above-mentioned streets4 ,he inhabited one of them1 and was continually drawn by potent attraction towards two others4 ,in one1 in particular1 he followed a practice1 the imprudence of which1 in more than one respect1 as he was much my junior1 ,i had already pointed out to him4 ,a lady1 as you have already conjectured1 resided in the house1 in question4 ,my friend1 like many of his compatriots1 sighed to many2 but he loved this one2 and she was precisely the one that could ne'er be his4 ,she allowed him1 however1 a harmless rendezvous1 separated from all danger1 as she thought1 by the distance from the ground to the balcony1 situated on the first-floor4 ,the lady being married1 and regular visiting being only possible at formal intervals1 these interviews had by degrees alarmingly1 as appeared to me1 increased in frequency and duration2 until at length during two hours each evening1 my acquaintance poured forth in a subdued tone1 calculated to reach only the fair form which bent over the balcony1 his tender complaints4 ,the youth of these climes are communicative on subjects which so deeply interest their feelings2 and whether willing or not1 one is often admitted to share their secrets at the commencement of an acquaintance4 ,it was thus that ,i had had an opportunity of lecturing my friend on the various dangers attending the practice in which he was persisting1 and of recommending him--the best advice of all being1 of course1 useless--to revive the more prudent custom of by-gone times1 and if he must offer nightly incense to the object of his fire1 to adopt the mode sanctioned by ,count ,almaviva1 and entrust his vows to the mercenary eloquence of choristers and catgut--to anything--or anybody1 provided it be done by proxy4 ,my warning was vain2 but the mischief did not befall him exactly in the manner ,i had contemplated4 ,his cousin opened my door while ,i was breakfasting1 and informed me that ,l---- was in the house of ,don ,g---- ,a----1 and in bed1 having received a wound the previous night from some robbers2 and that he wished to see me4 ,i found him in a house1 into which ,i had already been introduced1 being one of those he most frequented4 ,a bed had been prepared in the drawing-room1 all the window-shutters of which were closed1 and he was lying there1 surrounded by the family of his host1 to whom was added his sister4 ,as he was unable to speak above a whisper1 ,i was given the seat by the bedside1 while he related to me his adventure4 ,he had just quitted the street of the balcony at about nine o'clock1 and was approaching the house we were now in1 when1 on turning a corner1 he was attacked by three ruffians1 one of whom demanded his money in the usual terms1 ,your purse1 or your life6 while1 before he had time to reply1 but was endeavouring to pass on1 a second faced him1 and stabbed him in the breast through his cloak4 ,he then ran forward1 followed by the three1 down the street1 into the house1 and up the staircase2 the robbers not quitting the pursuit until he rang the bell on the first-floor4 ,the surgeon had been immediately called1 and had pronounced him wounded within--not an inch1 but the tenth part of an inch--of his life2 for the steel had penetrated to within that distance of his heart4 ,my first impression was that the robbers were acting a part1 and had been hired to get rid of him1--otherwise what were the utility of stabbing him1 when they might have rifled his pockets without such necessity8 ,but this he assured me could not be the case1 as the person most likely to fall under such suspicion1 was incapable of employing similar means2 adding1 that that was the usual mode of committing robberies in ,seville4 ,i left him1 after having assured him how much ,i envied his good fortune2 seeing that he was in no danger1 and only condemned to pass a week or two in the society of charming women1 all zealously employed in nursing him--for such was the truth--one of the young ladies being supposed1 and ,i fear with justice1 to be the object of his addresses4 ,the ungrateful wretch convinced me by his reply 7as we conversed in ,french1 and were not understood by those present7 that his greatest torment was impatience to escape from his confinement1 in order to see or write to the other fair one4 ,at the end of a week he was sufficiently recovered to be removed to the house of his family4 ,from certain hints1 dropped during a conversation which took place more than a month after the event1 it is to be feared that the knife of the assassin1 in approaching so near to the heart of his intended victim1 succeeded1 by some mysterious electric transmission1 in inflicting a positive wound on that of the lady of the balcony4 ,i afterwards learned that it was usual for those who inhabited or frequented this part of ,seville1 and indeed all other parts1 excepting the few principal thoroughfares and streets containing the shops and cafs1 to carry arms after nightfall2 and in shaking hands with an acquaintance1 ,i have sometimes perceived a naked sword-blade half visible among the folds of his cloak4 ,these perils only exist in the winter1 and not in all winters2 only in those during which provisions increase in price beyond the average1 and the season is more than usually rigorous3 the poor being thus exposed to more than the accustomed privations4 ,there are towns in which assassination and robbery are marked by more audacity than is their habitual character in this part of ,andalucia4 ,of these1 ,malaga is said to be one of the worst1 although perhaps the most favoured spot in ,europe1 with respect to natural advantages4 ,an instance of daring ruffianism occurred there this winter4 ,a person of consideration in the town had been found in the street stabbed and robbed4 ,his friends1 being possessed of much influence1 and disposing1 no doubt1 of other weighty inducements to action1 the police was aroused to unusual activity2 the murderer was arrested1 and brought before the ,alcalde primero4 ,a summary mode of jurisprudence was put in practice1 and the culprit was ordered for execution on the following day4 ,on being led from the presence of the court1 he turned to the ,alcalde1 and addressing him with vehemence1 threatened him with certain death1 in the event of the sentence being put in execution4 ,the ,alcalde1 although doubtless not entirely free from anxiety1 was1 by the threat itself1 the more forcibly bound to carry into effect the judgment he had pronounced4 ,the execution1 therefore1 took place at the appointed hour4 ,the following morning1 the dead body of the ,alcalde was found in a street adjoining that in which he resided4 ,,letter ,,xxii4 ,,inquisition4 ,,college ,,of ,,san ,,telmo4 ,,cigar ,,manufactory4 ,,bull ,,circus4 ,,exchange4 ,,ayuntamiento4 ,seville4 ,in the faubourg of ,triana1 separated from the town by the river1 may be distinguished remains of the ancient castle1 which became the headquarters of the ,inquisition1 on its first creation1 in #adhb4 ,that body was1 however1 shortly afterwards1 compelled to evacuate the building1 by a great inundation of the ,guadalquivir1 which occurred in the year #afbf4 ,it then moved into the town1 and1 from that period to the close of its functions1 occupied an edifice situated in the parish of ,saint ,mark4 ,its jurisdiction did not extend beyond ,andalucia4 ,the entire body was composed of the following official persons3--three inquisitors1 a judge of the fisc1 a chief ,alguazil1 a receiver1 7of fines17 five secretaries1 ten counsellors1 eighty qualifiers1 one advocate of the fisc1 one alcayde of the prison1 one messenger1 ten honest persons1 two surgeons1 and one porter4 ,for the ,city of ,seville1 one hundred familiars3 for the entire district1 the commissaries1 notaries1 and familiars1 amounted to four thousand4 ,the ten honest persons cut but a sorry figure in so long a list4 ,do they not tempt you to parody ,prince ,hal's exclamation ,monstrous6 but one halfpenny-worth of bread to this intolerable deal of sack8 ,the ,inquisition of ,seville is of an earlier date than that of ,toledo1 and was the first established in ,spain4 ,it was likewise the most distinguished by the rigour of its sentences4 ,the actual horrors of the inquisitorial vaults were1 ,i imagine1 in general much exaggerated4 ,a few instances of severity1 accompanied by a mystery1 skilfully designed to magnify its effect1 was sufficient to set on fire the inflammable imaginations of these sunny regions1 and to spread universal terror4 ,it was on finding these means insufficient for the extirpation of religious dissent1 that1 at length1 executions were decreed by wholesale4 ,rather than give credit to the voluminous list of the secret cruelties1 which were supposed by many to be exercised by the midnight tribunals1 and which could have no adequate object1 since a conversion brought about by such means could not1 when known1 profit the cause4 ,i think it probable that all acts of severity were made as public as possible1 in order to employ the terror they inspired as a means of swelling the ranks of ,catholicism4 ,my opinion is in some measure backed by what occurred at ,toledo4 ,on the ,inquisition of that city being dislodged from its palace1--now the seat of the provincial administration1--it was expected that the exploration of the subterraneous range of apartments1 known to be extensive1 would bring to light a whole ,apocalypse of horrors2 and all who had interest enough to obtain admission1 pressed in crowds to be present at the opening4 ,the disappointment was immense on finding not a single piece of iron1 not the shadow of a skeleton1 not a square inch of bloodstain4 ,each individual1 however1 during the permanence of these tribunals1 lived in awe of their power2 and the daily actions of thousands were influenced by the fear of becoming the victims of their cruelties1 whether real or imaginary4 ,the terror which surrounded the persons of their agents invested them with a moral power1 which frequently rendered them careless of the precaution of physical force in cases where it would have appeared to be a necessary instrument in the execution of their designs4 ,this confidence was once well-nigh fatal to two zealous defenders of the faith4 ,the ,archbishop of ,toledo1 subsequently ,cardinal ,ximenes de ,cisneros being on a visit at the residence of his brother of the see of ,granada1 it occurred to them during an after-dinner conversation that1 could they accomplish the immediate conversion of the few thousands of ,moors remaining in ,granada1 it would be the means of rendering a signal service to the ,catholic ,roman ,apostolic religion4 ,inflamed with a sudden ardour1 and rendered doubly fearless of results by the excellence of the archiepiscopal repast1 they resolved that the project should be put in execution that very evening4 ,ever since the ,conquest of ,granada1 a portion of the city had been appropriated to the ,moors who thought proper to remain2 and who received on that occasion the solemn assurance that no molestation would be offered to their persons or property1 nor impediment thrown in the way of their worship4 ,their part of the town was called the ,albaycin1 and was separated from the rest by a valley4 ,it contained some twenty to thirty thousand peaceably disposed inhabitants4 ,the two enterprising archbishops1 their plan being matured 7although insufficiently1 as will appear7 repaired to a house bordering on the ,moorish quarter2 and1 calling together all the ,familiars of the ,inquisition who could be met with on the spur of the occasion1 divided them into parties1 each of a certain force1 and dispatched them on their errand1 which was1 to enter the houses of the infidels1 and to intimate to the principal families the behest of the prelates1 requiring them by break of day1 to abjure the errors of their creed1 and to undergo the ceremony of baptism4 ,but in order that so meritorious a work should meet with the least possible delay1 all the children under a certain age were to be conveyed instantaneously to the house occupied by the ,archbishops1 in order that they might be baptised at once4 ,the agents opened the campaign1 and had already made away with a certain number of terrified infants1 whose souls were destined to be saved thus unceremoniously1 when the alarm began to spread2 and1 at the moment when the two dignitaries1 impatient to commence operations1 were inquiring for the first batch of unfledged heretics1 an unexpected confusion of sounds was heard to proceed simultaneously from all sides of the house1 and to increase rapidly in clearness and energy3 and some of the attendants1 entering1 with alarm depicted on their countenances1 announced that a few hundred armed ,moors had surrounded the house1 and were searching for an entrance4 ,it now1 for the first time1 occurred to the confederates1 that difficulties might possibly attend the execution of their project2 and their ardour having had nearly time to cool1 ,archbishop ,ximenes1 a personage by no means wanting in prudence and energy1 during his moments of reason1 employed the first instants of the siege in taking what precautions the circumstances admitted4 ,he next proceeded to indite a hasty line1 destined for the sovereigns ,ferdinand and ,isabella1 who were journeying in the province1 to inform them of his situation1 and request immediate assistance4 ,a black slave was selected to be the bearer of the letter3 but1 thinking to inspire him with greater promptitude and zeal1 an attendant thrust into his hand a purse of money together with the document4 ,the effect of this was the opposite to that which was intended4 ,the negro treated himself at every house of entertainment on his road2 until1 before he had half accomplished his journey1 he was totally incapacitated for further progress4 ,this circumstance could not1 however1 influence the fate of the besieged prelates2 who would have had time to give complete satisfaction to the offended ,moors before the ,king could receive the intelligence4 ,fortunately for them1 the news had reached the governor of ,granada1 a general officer in whose religious zeal they had not had sufficient confidence to induce them to apply to him for aid in the emergency4 ,that officer1 on hearing the state of things1 sent for a body of troops stationed at a neighbouring village1 to whose commander he gave orders to place a guard1 for the protection at the same time of the churchmen from violent treatment1 and of the ,moors from every sort of molestation4 ,this adventure of the ,archbishop drew upon him the temporary displeasure of the ,court4 ,illustration3 ,,portal ,,of ,,san ,,telmo1 ,,seville4 ,the public buildings of ,seville are on as grand a scale as those of some of the principal capitals of ,europe4 ,the college of ,san ,telmo1 fronting the ,christina-gardens1 is composed of two large quadrangles1 behind a faade of five or six hundred feet in length1 the centre of which is ornamented by a portal of very elaborate execution in the plateresco style4 ,the architect1 ,matias de ,figueroa1 has literally crammed the three stories with carved columns1 inscriptions1 balconies1 statues single and grouped1 arches1 medallions1 wreaths1 friezes4 ,without subjecting it to criticism on the score of purity1 to which it makes no pretension1 it certainly is rich in its general effect1 and one of the best specimens of its style4 ,this college was founded for the instruction of marine cadets1 and for that reason named after ,s4 ,telmo1 who is adopted by the mariners for their patron and advocate1 as ,santa ,barbara is by the land artillery4 ,he was a ,dominican friar1 and is recorded to have exercised miraculous influence on the elements1 and thereby to have preserved the lives of a boatful of sailors1 when on the point of destruction4 ,the gardens in front of this building are situated between the river and the town walls4 ,they are laid out in flower beds and walks4 ,in the centre is a raised platform of granite1 forming a long square of about an acre or more in extent1 surrounded with a seat of white marble4 ,it is entered at each end by an ascent of two or three steps4 ,this is called the ,salon1 and on ,sundays and ,feast-days is the resort of the society of ,seville4 ,in the winter the hour of the promenade is from one to three o'clock2 in the summer1 the hours which intervene between sunset and supper4 ,during winter as well as summer1 the scent of the flowers of the surrounding gardens fills the ,salon1 than which it is difficult to imagine a more charming promenade4 ,the cigar manufactory is also situated outside the walls4 ,it is a modern edifice of enormous dimensions1 and not inelegant4 ,in one of the rooms between two and three hundred cigareras1 girls employed in rolling cigars1 are seen at work1 and heard likewise2 for1 such a ,babel of voices never met mortal ear1 although familiar with the music of the best furnished rookeries4 ,the leaden roof1 which covers the whole establishment1 furnishes a promenade of several acres4 ,i am anxious to return to the interior of ,seville1 in order to introduce you to the ,lonja2 but we must not omit the ,plaza de los ,toros1 7bull circus17 situated likewise outside the walls1 and in view of the river4 ,it is said to be the handsomest in ,spain1 as well as the largest4 ,in fact it ought to be the best1 as belonging to the principal city of the especial province of toreadores4 ,it is approached by the gate nearest to the cathedral1 and which deserves notice1 being the handsomest gate of ,seville4 ,the principal entrance to the ,plaza is on the opposite side from the town1 where the building presents a large portion of a circle1 ornamented with plain arches round the upper story4 ,this upper portion extends only round a third part of the circus1 which is the extent of the part completed with boxes and galleries1 containing the higher class seats4 ,all the remainder consists of an uniform series of retreating rows of seats1 in the manner of an amphitheatre1 sufficient for the accommodation of an immense multitude4 ,these rows of seats are continued round the whole circus3 but those beneath the upper building are not accessible to the same class of spectators as the others--the price of the place being different4 ,this is regulated by the position with regard to the sun1 the shaded seats being the dearest4 ,the upper story consists of an elegant gallery1 ornamented with a colonnade1 in the centre of which the box of the president is surmounted by a handsomely decorated arch4 ,the circus1 measured from the outside1 is about two hundred and fifty feet in diameter4 ,those who are desirous of witnessing to what lengths human enthusiasm may be carried1 should see a representation in this ,plaza4 ,with seven prime bulls from ,la ,ronda1 and a quadrille of ,seville toreros--the enormous circumference as full as it can hold1 7as it always is17 it is one of the most curious sights that can be met with4 ,the origin of this amusement is not easy to be ascertained4 ,it was undoubtedly in vogue among the ,spanish ,arabs1 and probably originated in the time of the ,goths1 on the falling off of the representations of the ,roman amphitheatres for want of a sufficient supply of wild beasts4 ,in times not very remote1 it had become principally an amateur performance1 and the toreros were men of rank1 who made choice of this arena1 subsequently to the falling into disuse of the lists1 in order to exhibit their daring and dexterity before the objects of their flame4 ,the science is still studied by the greater part of the ,spanish youth2 just as1 in ,england1 the custom is maintained of receiving instruction in pugilism2 but an amateur is rarely seen in these days to figure in a public arena4 ,the intense interest which absorbs the feelings of those present at these representations1 affords a faint notion of what must have been the attractions of a ,roman circus1 in which combats were sustained by hundreds of wild beasts4 ,in the bull-fight--sustained by a single animal1 the interest would not probably be excited by the mere contest for life which takes place between the man and the brute1 and of which the ultimate result is foreseen4 ,it would1 on the contrary1 often yield to the disgust produced by the needless massacre of the horses2 were it not that the graceful performance of the toreros1 and their elegant costume1 so well calculated to set off the symmetry of their form1 first draws the attention1 which1 once fixed1 is gradually absorbed by the progress of the contest1 and at length irresistibly won by the variety of unforeseen incidents which follow in rapid succession4 ,frequenters of theatres have been seen to fall asleep during the most stirring scene of a melodrame2 and a continual murmur of conversation usually forms a running accompaniment to the voices of opera singers2 but no one was ever detected slumbering in a plaza de toros2 nor is a remark uttered that does not relate to the performance4 ,this difference may probably be explained by the superior attraction of the imprvu4 ,in the playhouse not only is the event known beforehand1 but also every incident by which it is preceded2 whereas1 throughout a corrida de toros nothing can be foreseen4 ,no one knows1 during the present minute1 whether the next will give birth to the direst of tragedies1 or to the most exhilarating farce4 ,at ,madrid the representations are inferior to those at ,seville4 ,they are able1 it is true1 to procure as fierce bulls2 but they are brought from a considerable distance1 and are much more expensive4 ,the principal inferiority consists in the men1 who at ,madrid are wanting in the rapidity of eye1 and careless courage of the ,andaluz4 ,on the entrance of a bull on the arena1 whose attitude gives promise of an animated course1 almost all the ,madrid toreros1 7,i have seen all17 will1 at his first onset1 disappear simultaneously over the barrera4 ,the barrera is the enclosure of stout planks1 strengthened by posts1 which separates the performers from the spectators4 ,it is about six feet in height4 ,at a height of three feet a projecting ledge runs round the whole1 upon which1 in vaulting over1 the toreador places his foot4 ,behind this enclosure an open space of four feet in width is left1 and serves as a refuge for those who are hard pressed4 ,very different is the graceful and careless attitude with which the ,andaluz awaits the approach of the infuriated brute1 and quietly springs aside with a flourish of his mantle of silk1 while he knows there are others at hand to draw off the animal's attention4 ,with the exception of the ,toros the public amusements of ,seville are limited to the balls at the ,lonja during the ,carnival1 and to the opera4 ,the opera varies its own pleasures1 while it distributes its favours between the two western capitals of the province4 ,from midsummer to midwinter ,cadiz receives her share of melody1 and the remaining six months are bestowed on ,seville4 ,xeres has1 ,i believe1 a company to itself1 supplied by a different impresario4 ,the ,rossi is an excellent primera dama1 although wanting in animation2 and ,comfortini is by no means a bad tenor4 ,the second tenor1 ,tosi1 is said to be ambitious of displaying his somewhat exaggerated attitudes on the boards of the ,haymarket4 ,there is a deficiency of ensemble1 since the severe discipline necessary for obtaining that result does not accord with the genius of the place--or perhaps an unexceptionable maestro de capella is too expensive a luxury to suit the ,seville purses4 ,however this may be1 the easy inhabitants1 who hear the same opera frequently six times in a week1 and would hear it seven times had not the performers a holiday on ,saturday--may be taken grievous liberties with before they utter a complaint4 ,they1 in fact1 look upon the performance chiefly as an excuse for resorting to this their habitual lounge4 ,the ,barbiere di ,seviglia should1 however1 be witnessed here by every amateur4 ,it is only here that justice is done to the libretto of ,rossini's masterpiece4 ,figaro becomes a real barber1 and scorns all velvets and finery2 and ,almaviva leaves his court-dress at home1 and takes a good capa of pao pardo for his nocturnal excursions4 ,the scenery represents the actual streets of ,seville4 ,local customs are introduced1 and local expressions interspersed in the ,italian dialogue4 ,on this occasion one spirit animates boxes1 lunetas1 orchestra1 and stage4 ,at the opening note of the first melody the allegro1 passing like electricity from the corner of the page through the eye1 brain1 and arm of the leader1 appears as though it spirted like wildfire from the extremity of his bow over stage1 boxes1 stalls1 and galleries1 lighting up in an instant all eyes with animation and pleasure4 ,in the scene of old ,bartolo's discomfiture the melodies of the maestro are totally extinguished beneath the din of overturned tables and chairs1 and cracking furniture2 and the joyous exclamations of the entire assembly1 unite with the jibes of the actors1 and seem to pursue the poor old guardian with one overwhelming peal of derision4 ,but it is only in this one instance that representations come off in such a manner4 ,on the contrary1 the company exhibit habitually all the aristocratic nonchalance of larger capitals4 ,their business there is society4 ,it is there that les affaires de coeur hold their ,royal ,exchange2 and observation1 conjecture1 and speculation1--but usually without ill-nature1--sufficiently occupy those who are not actors in this general by-play4 ,the youth of these climes do not put in practice the same arts of concealment and reserve as are adopted in colder cities2 but each1 unconscious of evil1 makes for the box of his enamorata2 or1 if that is impossible1 for the nearest vacant situation4 ,advise1 therefore1 any friend who may intend visiting ,seville1 not hastily to pay his visit of curiosity to the opera1 but to wait1 if possible1 until offered a seat by some habitue in her box4 ,this ,senora may possibly not have any affaire of her own on hand2 in fact the married ladies of course form an exception1 if not in all cases1 at least as far as regards such undisguised manifestations of preference3--in this case she will take delight in putting him au fait of all those that are going forward4 ,if in a conversable humour she will do more4 ,commencing with the nearest1 or the most conspicuous of the performers in these mute dramas1 she will relate to him the vicissitudes of the respective histories up to the time then present1 and the probabilities which each case may suggest for the future4 ,thus your friend1 instead of having sacrificed an entire evening to the dubious amusement of following the plot of a single opera1 which may have been a bad one1 or interpreted by bad actors1 will return to rest with some score of plots and romances filling all the corners of his memory--all possessing the zest of reality and actuality1 as he will have contemplated the heroes and heroines in their mortal shape1 and clothed in indisputable capas and mantillas2 besides1 another advantage which these romances will possess over all the popular and standard novels--that of omitting the most insipid chapter of all1 the one containing the dnouement4 ,there only remain two public buildings worthy of notice2 but they are such as to rank among the most remarkable of ,spain4 ,the ,lonja 7,exchange7 was erected during the reign of ,philip the ,second1 in the year #aehc1 by ,juan de ,herrera4 ,at this period the excesses committed in all parts of ,spain by the architects1 no longer restrained by rule of any sort1 had brought about a salutary effect1 after a sufficiently lengthened surfeit of extravagance4 ,herrera took the lead in the reaction1 and followed the more correct models of art4 ,among the authors of some of the most lamentable specimens of aberration of style scattered throughout ,spain1 are found several names high in rank among the painters of the best period4 ,these artists1 desirous of emulating some of the great masters of ,italy1 who had attained equal superiority in architecture1 painting1 and sculpture1 risked their reputation in these different pursuits with greater confidence than just appreciation of their peculiar genius4 ,at the head of them was ,alonzo ,cano1 one of the most distinguished painters of the schools of ,andalucia2 and who has been called the ,guido of ,spain4 ,he may certainly lay a more legitimate claim to that title than to that of the ,michael ,angelo of ,spain1 accorded to him by some of the less judicious of his admirers for no other reason than that of his combining the three above mentioned arts4 ,his paintings are characterized by a peculiar delicacy of manner1 correct drawing1 and exquisite finish4 ,the sickly paleness of his flesh is sometimes unpleasing1 and his personages are gainers by the addition of drapery1 in the arrangement of which he approaches to the excellence of the best ,italian schools4 ,the life of this artist was varied by more adventure than usually falls to the lot of those of his profession4 ,his talent as a painter had already become celebrated while he was still a monk1 having taken the vows very early in life4 ,he had been from the first an enemy to the subordination of the cloister1 and at length a series of irregularities led to his expulsion from his monastery4 ,alonzo was not1 however1 the original inventor of this eccentric style4 ,a ,roman architect1 ,francisco ,borromini1 the rival of ,bernini1 and of whom it was said1 that he was the first of his time in elevation of genius1 and the last in the employment of it1--is supposed to have first introduced it4 ,followers and imitators of these sprung up in great numbers1 and ,spain was speedily inundated with extravagancies3 faades1 moulded into more sinuosities than a labyrinth1--cornices1 multiplying their angles like a saw1 murderously amputated columns1 and broken-backed pediments4 ,juan de ,herrera was not1 probably1 possessed of more talent than the ,roman2 but of what he had he made a better use4 ,his reputation was beginning to make rapid progress when he was selected1 on the death of ,juan ,baptista de ,toledo1 to continue the ,escorial4 ,his task there was not the simple one of continuing the unfinished pile according to the plans already traced4 ,the religious fervor of ,philip the ,second was on the ascent1 and during the progress of the building he had resolved to double the number of monks1 for whom accommodation had been provided by the original plan4 ,to meet this necessity1 ,herrera raised the buildings to double their intended elevation4 ,his completion of this immense work1 rendered more difficult than it would have been had the original design been his own1 or even had that of his predecessor been persisted in 7for various other modifications were commanded1 especially with regard to the plan of the church17 fully established his fame2 and the edifice would probably have gained1 had ,philip not1 at the last moment1 yielded to a new caprice1 and called in another artist 7the architect of the famous country-house of the ,viso7 to erect the great staircase4 ,the object of ,herrera1 traceable in all his works1 was the re-establishment of antique art in all its purity4 ,in cathedrals success was more difficult of attainment than in civil edifices2 but the effort is easily discerned1 striving against the difficulties inseparable from the system1 which applies to the purposes of one creed the principles of art invented for ministering to other forms4 ,his cathedral of ,valladolid is an instance of this3 the most unsuccessful portion of which 7the tower7 has fallen before the completion of the edifice4 ,should the works ever be continued1 this would be a most fortunate circumstance1 were it not that the future builders are sure to persist in the same course1 and to disfigure the pile with another similar excrescence1 in contempt of symmetry and rule4 ,the ,lonja of ,seville is a structure so perfect as to bid defiance to criticism4 ,it might have been built by ,vitruvius4 ,the general plan is a quadrangle1 enclosing a court surrounded by an arcade4 ,there are two stories1 ornamented externally by pilasters4 ,the order is ,tuscan1 both above and below4 ,the court1 staircase1 and various apartments1 are decorated with a profusion of the rarest marbles4 ,the whole is a specimen1 almost unique1 of chaste elegance and massive solidity4 ,in this edifice1 the resort of wealthy traders during the period of the colonial prosperity of ,spain1 are contained1 among the archives1 the original despatches of ,columbus3 and1 it is also said1 those of ,cortez and ,pizarro4 ,the ,ayuntamiento1 or ,town ,hall1 is an edifice of another sort4 ,it is of the plateresco epoch4 ,but ,seville1 having been apparently preserved by especial favour from the introduction of specimens of bad taste2 it is a building of extreme beauty4 ,the faade is divided into two unequal parts4 ,the smaller of the two is covered with sculpture1 and contains an open porch or vestibule1 decorated throughout with a profusion of ornament4 ,i could not learn the name of the artist to whom these sculptures are attributed1 but they are worthy of the chisel of ,john of ,bologna4 ,the other portion of the front is without ornament from the ground to the first story1 along the whole extent of which runs a series of open arches supported by columns4 ,these columns and arches are models of lightness and grace4 ,the ,ayuntamiento is situated in the ,plaza de ,san ,francisco2 from one extremity of which a street leads to the cathedral3 at the other commences the principal street of ,seville1 called the ,calle de la ,sierpe4 ,here are all the best shops1 and the principle cafs4 ,it leads also to the post-office1 to the opera1 and to the ,plaza del ,duque1 so called from its containing the house of the ,duke of ,medina ,sidonia2 but it possesses1 likewise1 two other ducal residences1 besides others of almost equal pretension4 ,these mansions are scarcely ever occupied by their proprietors4 ,it is a small irregularly formed place1 and its ducal habitations1 whatever they may be internally1 by no means improve its appearance4 ,a few streets further on is the ,alameda4 ,this is a place magnificent in extent1 but possessing no architectural merit4 ,its principal ornament is an avenue of elms1 of about half a mile in length1 at the head of which are placed the two antique columns and statues of the temple of ,hercules4 ,at the further extremity1 on the left1 is the church of the ,jesuits1 closed since the revolution4 ,,the ,,end4 ,,london3 ,printed by ,s4 ,j4 ,,bentley1 ,,wilson1 and ,,fley1 ,bangor ,house1 ,shoe ,lane4 ,,footnotes3 #a ,the very polite individual alluded to no longer fills the post of ,consul at ,bayonne4 #b ,the following inscriptions are placed at the feet of the respective statues3 ,aqui yace el muy ,ilustre ,seor ,don ,pedro ,hernandez de ,velasco1 ,condestable de ,castilla1 ,seor del estado1 y gran casa de ,velasco1 hijo de ,don ,pedro ,hernandez de ,velasco1 y de ,doa ,beatriz ,manrique1 ,condes de ,haro4 ,murio de setenta y siete aos1 anno de mil cuatro cientos y noventa y dos1 siendo solo ,virey de estos reynos por los ,reyes ,catolicos4 ,aqui yace la muy ,ilustre ,seora ,doa ,mencia de ,mendoza1 ,condesa de ,haro1 muger del ,condestable ,don ,pedro ,hernandez de ,velasco1 hija de ,don ,inigo ,lopez de ,mendoza1 y de ,doa ,catalina de ,figueroa1 ,marqueses de ,santillana4 ,murio de setenta y nueve annos1 anno de mil y quiniento4 #c ,the above woodcut may1 it is hoped1 serve as a guide to future travellers in their search for this head1 of which it has no pretension to give an adequate idea4 #d ,it will be seen that this letter was written shortly after the ,queen's return to ,spain1 and previous to the publication of her marriage4 #e ,it is probable that this threat1 supposing it real1 may have assisted in determining the ,queen's resolution1 since executed1 of publishing the marriage4 #f ,the crown was valued in ,cadiz at a hundred and sixty thousand pounds1 of which the emerald1 which supports the cross1 represents forty thousand4 #g ,she is of a wood1 whether artificially or naturally1 of a tint between the darkest mahogany and ebony4 #h ,the ,author has in every instance made use of the word ,gothic1 in preference to the employment of any sort of periphrasis2 considering that the chief intention of a name is1 not that its application should accord with its derivation1 but rather that it should present to all who know it1 or have dictionaries1 an identical meaning1 in order that the idea of the individual employing it may be speedily caught4 ,now the word ,gothic having always been applied to this architecture1 it is comprehended4 ,a dismounted highwayman is termed a pad4 ,the oblong area in the centre of ,madrid is called a door4 ,what's in a name8 #i ,who does a kindness is not therefore kind4-- ,perhaps the wind has shifted from the ,east4--,,pope4 #aj ,feeling his powers as a draughtsman inadequate to do justice to this court1 the author has inserted the above sketch merely to show the general architectural design4 #aa ,he had put to death the ,master of ,st4 ,bernard1 a title of those days possessed by the chief of that order appointed by the ,pope4 ,it was ,urbano ,v1 who1 on the occasion of this act1 resented at the same time various other offences4 #ab ,the above is gathered from the following passage of ,appianus ,alexandrinus4 ,relicto1 utpote pacata regione1 valido prsidio1 ,scipio milites omnes vulneribus debiles in unam urbem compulit1 quam ab ,itali ,italicam nominavit1 claram natalibus ,trajani et ,adriani1 qui posteris temporibus ,romanum imperium tenuere4 ,elius ,sparcianus1 in the life of ,adrian1 says1 ,origo imperatoris ,adriani vetustior a ,picentibus1 posterior ab ,hispaniensibus manat2 siquidem ,adri ortos majores suos apud ,italicam1 ,scipionum temporibus resedisse in libris vit su ,adrianus ipse commemorat4 #ac ,no other town is so placed as to accord with the description given by ,pliny1 who passes it on the right bank of the river1 and arrives at ,seville lower down on the left3 ,italica et a lv ,hispalis colonia cognomine ,romulensis4 ,lucas de ,tuy1 who wrote four centuries back1 says1 ,italica est ,hispalis ,antigua4 #ad ,hic fertur ,apostolico ,vates fulsisse tempore3 ,et prdicasse supremum ,patrem potentis filii4 ,typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber3 ,alonza ,cano,alonzo ,cano 7#a7 ,abderrahman,abderahman 7#a7 ,andalusia,andalucia 7#a7