,,smithsonian ,,institution ,,united ,,states ,,national ,,museum ,illustration ,,bulletin #bed ,,washington1 ,d4,c4 #aifh ,illustration ,,the ,,smithsonian ,,institution ,,press ,the ,invention ,of the ,sewing ,machine ,illustration ,grace ,rogers ,cooper ,,curator ,,of ,,textiles ,,museum ,,of ,,history ,,and ,,technology ,,smithsonian ,,institution ,,washington1 ,d4,c4 #aifh ,publications of the ,united ,states ,national ,museum ,the scholarly and scientific publications of the ,united ,states ,national ,museum include two series1 ,proceedings of the ,united ,states ,national ,museum and ,united ,states ,national ,museum ,bulletin4 ,in these series1 the ,museum publishes original articles and monographs dealing with the collections and work of its constituent museums--,the ,museum of ,natural ,history and the ,museum of ,history and ,technology--setting forth newly acquired facts in the fields of anthropology1 biology1 history1 geology1 and technology4 ,copies of each publication are distributed to libraries1 to cultural and scientific organizations1 and to specialists and others interested in the different subjects4 ,the ,proceedings1 begun in #ahgh1 are intended for the publication1 in separate form1 of shorter papers from the ,museum of ,natural ,history4 ,these are gathered in volumes1 octavo in size1 with the publication date of each paper recorded in the table of contents of the volume4 ,in the ,bulletin series1 the first of which was issued in #ahge1 appear longer1 separate publications consisting of monographs 7occasionally in several parts7 and volumes in which are collected works on related subjects4 ,bulletins are either octavo or quarto in size1 depending on the needs of the presentation4 ,since #aijb papers relating to the botanical collections of the ,museum of ,natural ,history have been published in the ,bulletin series under the heading ,contributions from the ,united ,states ,national ,herbarium and1 since #aiei1 in ,bulletins titled ,contributions from the ,museum of ,history and ,technology1 have been gathered shorter papers relating to the collections and research of that ,museum4 ,this work forms volume #bed of the ,bulletin series4 ,frank ,a4 ,taylor ,director1 ,united ,states ,national ,museum ,for sale by ,superintendent of ,documents1 ,u4,s4 ,government ,printing ,office ,washington1 ,d4,c4 #bjdjb--,price #b4ge ,contents ,preface vii ,acknowledgments viii #a4 ,early ,efforts #a #b4 ,elements of a ,successful ,machine #ag #c4 ,the ,sewing-,machine ,combination #ci #d4 ,less ,expensive ,machines #dc ,appendixes #ee ,i4 ,notes on the ,development and ,commercial ,use of the ,sewing ,machine #eg ,,ii4 ,american ,sewing-,machine ,companies of the #aith ,century #fe ,,iii4 ,chronological ,list of ,u4,s4 ,sewing-,machine ,patent ,models in the ,smithsonian ,collections #abe ,,iv4 #aith-,century ,sewing ,machine ,leaflets in the ,smithsonian ,collections #acd ,v4 ,a ,brief ,history of ,cotton ,thread #ace ,,vi4 ,biographical ,sketches #acg ,bibliography #add ,indexes #adg ,geographical ,index to ,companies ,listed in ,appendix ,,ii #adi ,alphabetical ,index to ,patentees ,listed in ,appendix ,,iii #aea ,general ,index to ,chapters #a-d #aee ,preface ,it had no instrument panel with push-button controls4 ,it was not operated electronically or jet-propelled4 ,but to many #aith-century people the sewing machine was probably as awe-inspiring as a space capsule is to their #bjth-century descendants4 ,it was expensive1 but1 considering the work it could do and the time it could save1 the cost was more than justified4 ,the sewing machine became the first widely advertised consumer appliance1 pioneered installment buying and patent pooling1 and revolutionized the ready-made clothing industry4 ,it also weathered the protests of those who feared the new machine was a threat to their livelihood4 ,the practical sewing machine is not the result of one man's genius1 but rather the culmination of a century of thought1 work1 trials1 failures1 and partial successes of a long list of inventors4 ,history is too quick to credit one or two men for an important invention and to forget the work that preceded and prodded each man to contribute his share4 ,it is no discredit to ,howe to state that he did not invent the sewing machine4 ,howe's work with the sewing machine was important1 and he did patent certain improvements1 but his work was one step along the way4 ,it is for the reader to decide whether it was the turning point4 ,since the sewing machine has been considered by some as one of the most important inventions of #aith-century ,america1 of equal importance to this story of the invention is the history of the sewing machine's development into a practical1 popular commodity4 ,since many new companies blossomed overnight to manufacture this very salable item1 a catalog list of more than one hundred and fifty of these #aith-century companies is included in this study4 ,still1 the list is probably incomplete4 ,many of the companies remained in business a very short time or kept their activities a secret to avoid payment of royalties to patent holders4 ,evidence of these companies is difficult to find4 ,it is hoped that additional information will come to light as a result of this initial attempt to list and date known companies4 ,the dating of individual machines based on their serial numbers is also a difficult task4 ,individual company records of this type have not survived2 however1 using the commercial machines in the patent collection1 for which we know one limiting date--the date the machine was deposited at the patent office--and using the records that have survived1 an estimated date based on the serial number can be established for many of the better known machines4 ,acknowledgments ,i am greatly indebted to the late ,dr4 ,frederick ,lewton1 whose interest in the history of the sewing machine initiated the collecting of information about it for the ,smithsonian ,institution's ,division of ,textiles archives and whose out-of-print booklet ,a ,servant in the ,house prompted the writing of this work4 ,i would also like to thank ,mr4 ,bogart ,thompson of the ,singer ,manufacturing ,company for his cooperation in arranging for the gift of an excellent collection of #aith-century sewing machines to the ,smithsonian and for allowing me to use the ,singer historical files4 ,acknowledgment is also made of the cooperation extended by ,the ,henry ,ford ,museum and ,greenfield ,village for permitting me to study their collection of old sewing machines4 ,grace ,rogers ,cooper ,chapter ,one ,illustration3 ,figure #a4--;,,after ,,almost ,a ,,century ,,of ,,attempts ,,to ,,invent ,a ,,machine ,,that ,,would ,,sew1 the practical sewing machine evolved in the mid-#aith century4 ,this elegant1 carpeted salesroom of the #ahgjs1 with fashionable ladies and gentlemen scanning the latest model sewing machines1 reflects the pinnacle reached by the new industry in just a few decades4 ,this example1 one of many of its type1 is the ,wheeler and ,wilson sewing-machine offices and salesroom1 ,no4 #dd ,fourteenth ,street1 ,union ,square1 ,new ,york ,city4 ,from ,the ,daily ,graphic1 ,new ,york ,city1 ,december #bi1 #ahgd4 7,smithsonian photo #dhjia-;,a47 ,early ,efforts ,to #ahjj ,for thousands of years1 the only means of stitching two pieces of fabric together had been with a common needle and a length of thread4 ,the thread might be of silk1 flax1 wool1 sinew1 or other fibrous material4 ,the needle1 whether of bone1 silver1 bronze1 steel1 or some other metal1 was always the same in design--a thin shaft with a point at one end and a hole or eye for receiving the thread at the other end4 ,simple as it was1 the common needle 7fig4 #b7 with its thread-carrying eye had been an ingenious improvement over the sharp bone1 stick1 or other object used to pierce a hole through which a lacing then had to be passed4#a ,in addition to utilitarian stitching for such things as the making of garments and household furnishings1 the needle was also used for decorative stitching1 commonly called embroidery4 ,and it was for this purpose that the needle1 the seemingly perfect tool that defied improvement1 was first altered for ease of stitching and to increase production4 ,one of the forms that the needle took in the process of adaptation was that of the fine steel hook4 ,called an aguja in ,spain1 the hook was used in making a type of lace known as punto de aguja4 ,during the #agth century after the introduction of chainstitch embroideries from ,india1 this hook was used to produce chainstitch designs on a net ground4#b ,the stitch and the fine hook to make it were especially adaptable to this work4 ,by the #ahth century the hook had been reduced to needle size and inserted into a handle1 and was used to chainstitch-embroider woven fabrics4#c ,in ,france the hook was called a crochet and was sharpened to a point for easy entry into the fabric 7fig4 #c74 ,for stitching1 the fabric was held taut on a drum-shaped frame4 ,the hooked needle pierced the fabric1 caught the thread from below the surface and pulled a loop to the top4 ,the needle reentered the fabric a stitch-length from the first entry and caught the thread again1 pulling a second loop through the first to which it became enchained4 ,this method of embroidery permitted for the first time the use of a continuous length of thread4 ,at this time the chainstitch was used exclusively for decorative embroidery1 and from the ,french name for drum--the shape of the frame that held the fabric--the worked fabric came to be called tambour embroidery4 ,the crochet#d or small hooked needle soon became known as a tambour needle4 ,in #agee a new type of needle was invented for producing embroidery stitches4 ,this needle had to pass completely through the fabric two times 7a through-and-through motion7 for every stitch4 ,the inventor was ,charles ,f4 ,weisenthal1 a ,german mechanic living in ,london who was granted ,british patent #gja for a two-pointed needle 7fig4 #d74 ,the invention was described in the patent as follows3 ,the muslin1 being put into a frame1 is to be worked with a needle that has two points1 one at the head1 and the other point as a common needle1 which is to be worked by holding it with the fingers in the middle1 so as not to require turning4 ,it might be argued that ,weisenthal had invented the eye-pointed needle1 since he was the first inventor to put a point at the end of the needle having the eye4 ,but1 since his specifically stated use required the needle to have two points and to be passed completely through the fabric1 ,weisenthal had no intention of utilizing the very important advantage that the eye-pointed needle provided1 that of not requiring the passage of the needle through the fabric as in hand sewing4 ,while no records can be found to establish that ,weisenthal's patent was put to any commercial use during the inventor's lifetime1 the two-pointed needle with eye at midpoint appeared in several #aith-century sewing-machine inventions4 ,the earliest of the known mechanical sewing devices produced a chain or tambour stitch1 but by an entirely different principle than that used with either needle just described4 ,although the idea was incorporated into a patent1 the machine was entirely overlooked for almost a century as the patent itself was classed under wearing apparel4 ,it was entitled ,an ,entire ,new ,method of ,making and ,completing ,shoes1 ,boots1 ,splatterdashes1 ,clogs1 and ,other ,articles1 by ,means of ,tools and ,machines also ,invented by ,me for that ,purpose1 and of ,certain ,compositions of the ,nature of ,japan or ,varnish1 which will be very advantageous in many useful ,applications4 ,this portentously titled ,british patent #a1gfd was issued to an ,english cabinetmaker1 ,thomas ,saint1 on ,july #ag1 #agij4 ,along with accounts of several processes for making various varnish compositions1 the patent contains descriptions of three separate machines2 the second of these was for stitching1 quilting1 or sewing4 ,though far from practical1 the machine incorporated several features common to a modern sewing machine4 ,it had a horizontal cloth plate or table1 an overhanging arm carrying a straight needle1 and a continuous supply of thread from a spool4 ,the motion was derived from the rotation of a hand crank on a shaft1 which activated cams that produced all the actions of the machine4 ,illustration3 ,figure #b4--,,primitive ,,needle4 ,bronze4 ,egyptian 7,roman period1 #cj ,b4,c4-,a4,d4 #fdb74 7,smithsonian photo #acgi-;,a47 ,one cam operated the forked needle 7fig4 #e7 that pushed the thread through a hole made by a preceding thrust of the awl4 ,the thread was caught by a looper and detained so that it then became enchained in the next loop of thread4 ,the patent described thread tighteners above and below the work and an adjustment to vary the stitches for different kinds of material4 ,other than the ,british patent records1 no contemporary reference to ,saint's machine has ever been found4 ,the stitching-machine contents of this patent was happened on by accident in #ahgc4e ,using the patent description1 a ,newton ,wilson of ,london attempted to build a model of ,saint's machine in #ahgd4f ,wilson found1 however1 that it was necessary to modify the construction before the machine would stitch at all4 ,illustration3 ,figure #c4--,,tambour ,,needle ,,and ,,frame1 showing the method of forming the chainstitch1 from the ,diderot ,encyclopedia of #agfc1 vol4 ,,ii1 ,plates ,brodeur1 plate ,,ii4 7,smithsonian photo #dciie-;,c47 ,this raised the question whether ,saint had built even one machine4 ,nevertheless1 the germ of an idea was there1 and had the inventor followed through the sewing machine might have been classed an #ahth-century rather than a #aith-century contribution4 #ahjj-ahbj ,there is no doubt that the successful late-#ahth-century improvements in spinning and weaving methods1 resulting in increased production of fabrics1 had a great effect in spurring inventors to ideas of stitching by machinery4 ,several efforts were made during the first two decades of the #aith century to produce such machines4 ,on ,february #ad1 #ahjd1 a ,french patent was issued to ,thomas ,stone and ,james ,henderson for a new mechanical principle designed to replace handwork in joining the edges of all kinds of flexible material1 and particularly applicable to the manufacture of clothing4#g ,the machine used a common needle and made an overcast stitch in the same manner as hand sewing4 ,a pair of jaws or pincers1 imitating the action of the fingers1 alternately seized and released the needle on each side of the fabric4 ,the pincers were attached to a pair of arms arranged to be moved backward and forward by any suitable mechanism4#h ,this machine was capable of making curved or angular as well as straight seams1 but it was limited to carrying a short length of thread1 necessitating frequent rethreading4 ,the machine may have had some limited use1 but it was not commercially successful4 ,on ,may #cj of the same year ,john ,duncan1 a ,glasgow manufacturer1 was granted ,british patent #b1gfi for a new and improved method of tambouring1 or raising flowers1 figures or other ornaments upon muslins1 lawns and other cottons1 cloths1 or stuffs4 ,this machine made the chainstitch1 using not one but many hooked needles that operated simultaneously4 ,the needles1 attached to a bar or carrier1 were pushed through the vertically held fabric from the upper right side1 which in this case was also the outer side4 ,after passing through it1 they were supplied with thread from spools by means of peculiarly formed hooks or thread carriers4 ,the thread was twisted around the needle above the hook1 so as to be caught by it1 and drawn through to the outer surface4 ,the shaft of the needle was grooved on the hook side and fitted with a slider4 ,this slider closed upon the retraction of the needle from the fabric1 holding the thread in place and preventing the hook from catching4 ,the fabric was stretched between two rollers set in an upright frame capable of sliding vertically in a second frame arranged to have longitudinal motion4 ,the combination of these two motions was sufficient to produce any required design4 ,the principle developed by ,duncan was used on embroidery machines1 in a modified form1 for many years4 ,of several early attempts1 his was the first to realize any form of success4 ,illustration3 ,figure #d4--,,weisenthal',s two-pointed needle1 #agee4 ,illustration3 ,figure #e4--,,saint',s ,,sewing ,,machine1 #agij4 7,smithsonian photo #dbdij-;,a47 ,illustration3 ,figure #f4--;,,chapman',s ,,sewing ,,machine1 first eye-pointed needle1 #ahjg4 7,smithsonian photo #ccbii-,k47 ,a type of rope-stitching machine1 which might be considered unimportant to this study1 must be included because of its use of the eye-pointed needle1 the needle that was to play a most important part in the later development of a practical sewing machine4 ,the earliest reference to the use of a needle with an eye not being required to be passed completely through the fabric it was stitching is found in a machine invented by ,edward ,walter ,chapman1 for which he and ,william ,chapman were granted ,british patent #c1jgh on ,october #cj1 #ahjg4 ,the machine 7fig4 #f7 was designed to construct belting or flat banding by stitching together several strands of rope that had been laid side by side4 ,two needles were required and used alternately4 ,one needle was threaded and then forced through the ropes4 ,on the opposite side the thread was removed from the eye of the first needle before it was withdrawn4 ,the second needle was threaded and the operation repeated4 ,the needles could also be used to draw the thread1 rather than push it1 through the ropes with the same result4 ,while being stitched1 the ropes were held fast and the sewing frame and supporting carriage were moved manually as each stitch was made4 ,such a machine would be applicable only to the work described1 since the necessity of rethreading at every stitch would make it impractical for any other type of sewing4 ,another early machine reported to have used the eye-pointed needle to form the chainstitch was invented about #ahaj by ,balthasar ,krems1#i a hosiery worker of ,mayen1 ,germany4 ,one knitted article produced there was a peaked cap1 and ,krems' machine was devised to stitch the turned edges of the cap1#aj which was suspended from wire pins on a moving wheel4 ,the needle of the machine was attached to a horizontal shaft and carried the thread through the fabric4 ,the loop of thread was retained by a hook-shaped pin to become enchained with the next loop at the reentry of the needle4 ,local history reports that this device may have been used as early as #ahjj1 but the inventor did not patent his machine and apparently made no attempt to commercialize it4 ,no contemporary references to the machine could be found1 and use of the machine may have died with the inventor in #ahac4 ,illustration3 ,figure #g4--,,madersperger',s #ahad ,,sewing ,,machine4 ,illustration from a pamphlet by the inventor entitled ,beschreibung einer ,nhmaschine1 ,vienna1 ca4 #ahaf4 7,smithsonian photo #dicgc47 ,about the same time1 ,josef ,madersperger1 a tailor in ,vienna1 ,austria1 invented a sewing machine1 which was illustrated 7fig4 #g7 and described in a #ae-page pamphlet published about #ahaf4aa ,on ,may #ab1 #ahag1 a ,vienna newspaper wrote of the ,madersperger machine3 ,the approbation which his machine received everywhere has induced his ,royal ,imperial ,majesty1 in the year #ahad1 to give to the inventor an exclusive privilege patent which has already been mentioned before in these papers4#ab ,madersperger's #ahad machine stitched straight or curving lines4 ,his second machine stitched small semicircles1 as shown in the illustration1 and also small circles1 egg-shaped figures1 and angles of various degrees4 ,the machine1 acclaimed by the art experts1 must therefore have been intended for embroidery stitching4 ,from the contemporary descriptions and the illustration1 the machine is judged to have made a couched stitch--one thread was laid on the surface of the fabric and stitched in place with a short thread carried by a two-pointed needle of the type invented by ,weisenthal4 ,two fabrics could have been stitched together1 but not in the manner required for tailoring4 ,the machine must have had many deficiencies in the tension adjustment1 feed1 and related mechanical operations1 for despite the published wishes for success the inventor did not put the machine into practical operation4#ac ,years later ,madersperger again attempted to invent a sewing machine using a different stitch 7see p4 #ac74 ,illustration3 ,figure #h4--;,,an ,,engraving ,,of ,,thimonnier and his sewing machine of #ahcj1 from ,sewing ,machine ,news1 #ahhj4 7,smithsonian photo #ajefi-;,c47 ,a story persists that about #ahah-ahai a machine that formed a backstitch1 identical to the one used in hand sewing1 was invented in ,monkton1 ,vermont4 ,the earliest record of this machine that this author has found was in the second or #ahfg edition of ,eighty ,years of ,progress of the ,united ,states2 the machine is not mentioned in the earlier edition4 ,the writer of the article on sewing machines states that ,john ,knowles invented and constructed a sewing machine1 which used a single thread and a two-pointed needle with the eye in the middle to form the backstitch4 ,this information must have come to light after the first edition was published1 but from where and by whom is not known4 ,other sources state that two men1 ,adams and ,dodge1 produced this machine in ,monkton4#ad ,while still others credit the ,reverend ,john ,adam ,dodge1 assisted by a mechanic by the name of ,john ,knowles1 with the same invention in the same location4#ae ,vermont historical societies have been unable to identify the men named or to verify the story of the invention4#af ,the importance of the credibility of this story1 if proved1 rests in the fact that it represents the first effort in the ,united ,states to produce a mechanical stitching device4 #ahbj-ahde ,american records of this period are incomplete as a result of the ,patent ,office fire of #ahcf1 in which most of the specific descriptions of patents issued to that date were destroyed4 ,patentees were asked to provide another description of their patents so that these might be copied1 but comparatively few responded and only a small percentage was restored4 ,thus1 although the printed index of patents#ag lists ,henry ,lye as patenting a machine for sewing leather1 and so forth on ,march #aj1 #ahbf1 no description of the machine has ever been located4 ,many patents whose original claim was for only a mechanical awl to pierce holes in leather or a clamp to hold leather for hand stitching were claimed as sewing devices once a practical machine had evolved4 ,but no evidence has ever been found that any of these machines performed the actual stitching operation4 ,illustration3 ,figure #i4--;,,an ,,adapted ,,drawing of ,hunt's sewing machine published by the ,sewing ,machine ,news1 vol4 #b1 no4 #h1 #ahha1 to give some idea of its construction and operation4 ,the frame of the machine 7,a7 rested on a base 7,b7 that was supported by a table4 ,the wheel 7,c7 worked on a central shaft 7,e7 and was set in motion by hand or foot power4 ,on the front of the wheel 7,c7 was a raised cam 7,d7 into which the connecting rod 7,f7 engaged to communicate motion to the vibrating arm 7,g7 pivoted to the frame at 7,h7 and carrying at the end 7g7 the curved needle 7,i74 ,the take-up 7,j7 served to tighten the thread after each stitch2 it was connected to the vibrating arm by a rod 7,k74 ,the cloth 7,l7 was held in a vertical position between the fingers or nippers 7,m71 which were attached to the frame4 ,the bar 7,n7 was toothed on one side 7n7 to mesh with the geared wheel 7o74 ,the lever 7,p7 was operated by a cam 7m7 upon the periphery of the wheel 7,c71 and carried the vertical pawl 7,s7 which meshed with the ratchet 7,t7 and moved the cloth as each stitch was made4 ,the shuttle 7,u7 worked in its race 7,v72 it was operated by the vibrating lever 7,w71 the upper end of which engaged into a groove on the face of the wheel 7,c74 7,smithsonian photo #dbeed47 ,the first man known to have put a mechanical sewing device into commercial operation was ,barthelemy ,thimonnier1#ah a ,french tailor4 ,after several years of fruitless effort he invented a machine for which he received a ,french patent in #ahcj4ai ,the machine 7fig4 #h7 made a chainstitch by means of a barbed or hooked needle4 ,the vertically held needle worked from an overhanging arm4 ,the needle thrust through the fabric laid on the horizontal table1 caught a thread from the thread carrier and looper beneath the table1 and brought a loop to the surface of the fabric4 ,when the process was repeated the second loop became enchained in the first4 ,the needle was moved downward by the depression of a cord-connected foot treadle and was raised by the action of a spring4 ,the fabric was fed through the stitching mechanism manually1 and a regular rate of speed had to be maintained by the operator in order to produce stitches of equal length4 ,a type of retractable thimble or presser foot was used to hold the fabric down as required4 ,the needle1 and the entire machine1 was basically an attempt to mechanize tambour embroidery1 with which the inventor was quite familiar4 ,although this work1 which served as the machine's inspiration1 was always used for decorative embroidery1 ,thimonnier saw the possibilities of using the stitch for utilitarian purposes4 ,by #ahda he had #hj machines stitching army clothing in a ,paris shop4 ,but a mob of tailors1 fearing that the invention would rob them of a livelihood1 broke into the shop and destroyed the machines4 ,thimonnier fled ,paris1 penniless4 ,four years later he had obtained new financial help1 improved his machine to produce #bjj stitches a minute1 and organized the first ,french sewing-machine company4#bj ,the ,revolution of #ahdh1 however1 brought this enterprise to an early end4 ,before new support could be found other inventors had appeared with better machines1 and ,thimonnier's was passed by4 ,in addition to the two ,french patents ,thimonnier also received a ,british patent with his associate ,jean ,marie ,magnin in #ahdh and one in the ,united ,states in #ahej4 ,he achieved no financial gain from either of these and died a poor man4 ,while ,thimonnier was developing his chainstitch machine in ,france1 ,walter ,hunt1#ba perhaps best described as a ,yankee mechanical genius1 was working on a different kind of sewing machine in the ,united ,states4 ,sometime between #ahcb and #ahcd he produced at his shop in ,new ,york a machine that made a lockstitch4#bb ,this stitch was the direct result of the mechanical method devised to produce the stitching and represented the first occasion an inventor had not attempted to reproduce a hand stitch4 ,the lockstitch required two threads1 one passing through a loop in the other and both interlocking in the heart of the seam4 ,at the time ,hunt did not consider the sewing machine any more promising than several other inventions that he had in mind1 and1 after demonstrating that the machine would sew1 he sold his interest in it for a small sum and did not bother to patent it4 ,a description--one of few ever published--and sketch of a rebuilt ,hunt machine 7fig4 #i7 appeared in an article in the ,sewing ,machine ,news in #ahha4bc ,the important element in the ,hunt invention was an eye-pointed needle working in combination with a shuttle carrying a second thread4 ,future inventors were thus no longer hampered by the erroneous idea that the sewing machine must imitate the human hands and fingers4 ,though ,hunt's machine stitched short1 straight seams with speed and accuracy1 it could not sew curved or angular work4 ,its stitching was not continuous1 but had to be reset at the end of a short run4 ,the validity of ,hunt's claim as the inventor of the lockstitch and the prescribed method of making it was argued many times1 especially during the ,elias ,howe patent suits of the #ahejs4 ,the decision against ,hunt was not a question of invention1#bd but one of right to ownership or control4 ,hunt did little to promote his sewing machine and sold it together with the right to patent to ,george ,a4 ,arrowsmith4 ,illustration3 ,figure #aj4--,,madersperger',s #ahci sewing machine4 ,madersperger's machine consisted of two major parts3 the frame1 which held the material1 and the stitching mechanism1 called the hand4 ,the hand shown here is an original model4 7,photo courtesy of ,technisches ,museum fr ,industrie und ,gewerbe1 ,vienna47 ,for over fifteen years1 from the mid-#ahcjs to the early #ahejs1 the machine dropped out of sight4 ,when the sewing-machine litigation developed in the #ahejs1 the ,i4 ,m4 ,singer company searched out the ,hunt machine1 had the inventor rebuild one1#be and attempted to use this to break the ,howe patent4 ,the plan did not work4 ,the ,honorable ,charles ,mason1 ,patent ,commissioner1 reported3 ,when the first inventor allows his discovery to slumber for eighteen years1 with no probability of its ever being brought into useful activity1 and when it is only resurrected to supplant and strangle an invention which has been given to the public1 and which has been made practically useful1 all reasonable presumption should be in favor of the inventor who has been the means of conferring the real benefit upon the world4#bf ,hunt's machine was an invention of the #ahcjs1 but only because of the patent litigation was it ever heard of again4 ,during the time that a potentially successful sewing machine was being invented and forgotten in ,america1 ,josef ,madersperger of ,austria made a second attempt to solve the mechanical stitching problem4 ,in #ahci he received a second patent on a machine entirely different from his #ahad effort4 ,it was similar to ,hunt's in that it used an eye-pointed needle and passed a thread through the loop of the needle-thread--the thread carried by the needle--to lock the stitch4 ,madersperger's machine was a multiple-needle quilting machine4 ,the threaded needles penetrated the fabric from below and were retracted1 leaving the loops on the surface4 ,a thread was drawn through the loops to produce what the inventor termed a chain4 ,the first two stitches were twisted before insertion into the next two1 producing a type of twisted lockstitch4 ,the mechanism for feeding the cloth was faulty1 however1 and the inventor himself stated in the specifications that much remained to perfect and simplify it before its general application4 7,this machine was illustrated fig4 #aj in the ,sewing ,machine ,times1 ,october #be1 #aijg1 and mistakenly referred to as the #ahad model47 ,madersperger realized no financial gain from either venture and died in a poorhouse in #ahej4 ,the first efforts of the #ahdjs reflected the work of the earlier years4 ,in ,england1 ,edward ,newton and ,thomas ,archbold invented and patented a machine on ,may #d1 #ahda1 for tambouring or ornamenting the backs of gloves4 ,their machine used a hook on the upper surface to catch the loop of thread1 but an eye-pointed needle from underneath was used to carry the thread up through the fabric4 ,the machine was designed to use three needles for three rows of chainstitching1 if required4 ,although the machine was capable of stitching two fabrics together1 it was never contemplated as a sewing machine in the present use of the term4 ,their ,british patent #h1idh stated it was for improvements in producing ornamental or tambour work in the manufacture of gloves4 ,the earliest ,american patent specifically recorded as a sewing machine was ,u4,s4 patent #b1dff1 issued to ,john ,j4 ,greenough on ,february #ba1 #ahdb4 ,his machine was a short-thread model that made both the running stitch and the backstitch4 ,it used the two-pointed needle1 with eye at mid-length1 which was passed back and forth through the material by means of a pair of pincers on each side of the seam4 ,the pincers opened and closed automatically4 ,the material to be sewn was held in clamps which moved it forward between the pincers to form a running stitch or moved it alternately backward and forward to produce a backstitch4 ,the clamps were attached to a rack that automatically fed the material at a predetermined rate according to the length of stitch required4 ,since the machine was designed for leather or other hard material1 the needle was preceded by an awl1 which pierced a hole4 ,the machine had a weight to draw out the thread and a stop-motion to stop the machinery when a thread broke or became too short4 ,the needle was threaded with a short length of thread and required frequent refilling4 ,only straight seams could be stitched4 ,the feed was continuous to the length of the rack bar2 then it had to be reset4 ,the motions were all obtained from the revolution of a crank4 ,it is not believed that any machines1 other than the patent model 7fig4 #aa71 were ever made4 ,little is known of ,greenough other than his name4 ,illustration3 ,figure #aa4--;,,greenough',s ,,patent ,,model1 #ahdb4 7,smithsonian photo #deebe-;,g47 ,in the succeeding year1 on ,march #d1 #ahdc1 ,benjamin ,w4 ,bean received the second ,american sewing-machine patent1 ,u4,s4 patent #b1ihb4 ,like ,greenough's1 this machine made a running stitch1 but by a different method4 ,in ,bean's machine the fabric was fed between the teeth of a series of gears4 ,held in a groove in the gears was a peculiarly shaped needle bent in two places to permit it to be held in place by the gears and with a point at one end and the eye at the opposite end1 as in a common hand needle4 ,the action of the gears caused the fabric to be forced onto and through the threaded needle4 ,indefinite straight seams could be stitched as the fabric was continuously forced off the needle by the turning gears 7fig4 #ab74 ,a screw clamp held the machine to a table or other work surface4 ,machines of this and similar types reportedly had some limited usage in the dyeing and bleaching mills1#bg where lengths of fabric were stitched together before processing4 ,improved versions of ,bean's machine were to be patented in subsequent years in ,england and ,america4 ,the same principle was also used in home machines two decades later4 ,the third sewing-machine patent on record in the ,united ,states ,patent ,office is patent #c1chi issued on ,december #bg1 #ahdc1 to ,george ,h4 ,corliss1 better remembered as the inventor and manufacturer of the ,corliss steam engine4 ,it was his interest in the sewing machine1 however1 that eventually directed his attention to the steam engine4 ,corliss had a general store at ,greenwich1 ,new ,york4 ,a customer's complaint that the boots he had purchased split at the seams made ,corliss wonder why someone had not invented a machine to sew stronger seams than hand-sewn ones4 ,he considered the problem of sewing leather1 analyzing the steps required to make the saddler's stitch1 one popularly used in boots and shoes4 ,he concluded that a sewing machine to do this type of work must first perforate the leather1 then draw the threads through the holes1 and finally secure the stitches by pulling the threads tight4 ,the machine ,corliss invented 7fig4 #ac7 was of the same general type as ,greenough's1 except that two two-pointed needles were required to make the saddler's stitch4 ,this stitch was composed of two running stitches made simultaneously1 one from each side4#bh ,the machine used two awls to pierce the holes through which the needles passed2 finger levers approached from opposite sides1 seized the needles1 pulled the threads firmly1 and passed the needles through to repeat the operation4 ,the working model that ,corliss completed could unite two pieces of heavy leather at the rate of #bj stitches per minute4 ,corliss1 lacking capital1 went to ,providence1 ,rhode ,island1 in #ahdd to secure backers4 ,after months without success1 he was forced to abandon the sewing machine and accept employment as a draftsman and designer4 ,though he considered himself a failure1 this change of employment placed him on the threshold of his more rewarding life work1 improvement of the steam engine4#bi ,on ,july #bb1 #ahdd1 ,james ,rodgers was granted ,u4,s4 patent #c1fgb1 the fourth ,american sewing-machine patent4 ,the patent model is not known to be in existence1 but this machine was of minor importance for it offered only a negligible change in the ,bean running-stitch machine4 ,the same corrugated gears were used but were placed in different positions so that one bend in the needle was eliminated4 ,when ,bean secured a reissue of his patent in #ahdi1 he had adapted it to use a straight needle4 ,rodgers' machine is not known to have had any commercial success1 although this type of machine experienced a brief period of popularity4 ,by the early #aijjs1 however1 the running-stitch machine was so little known that when one was illustrated in the ,sewing ,machine ,times in #aijgcj it excited more curiosity than any of the other early types4 ,illustration3 ,figure #ab4--;,,bean',s ,,patent ,,model1 #ahdc4 7,smithsonian photo #dbdij-;,c47 ,illustration3 ,figure #ac4--;,,corliss' ,,patent ,,model1 #ahdc4 ,the piece of wood in the foreground is an enlarged model of the needle4 7,smithsonian photo #dbdij47 ,on ,december #g1 #ahdd1 the same year that ,rodgers secured his ,american patent1 ,john ,fisher and ,james ,gibbons were granted ,british patent #aj1dbd for certain improvements in the manufacture of figured or ornamental lace1 or net1 or other fabrics4 ,from this superficial description of its work1 the device might seem to be just another tambouring machine4 ,it was not4 ,designed specifically for ornamental stitching1 the machine made a two-thread stitch using an eye-pointed needle and a shuttle4#ca ,several sets of needles and shuttles worked simultaneously4 ,the needles were secured to a needlebar placed beneath the fabric4 ,the shuttles were pointed at both ends to pass through each succeeding new loop formed by the needles4 ,each shuttle was activated by two vibrating arms worked by cams4 ,each needle was curved in the form of a bow1 and in addition to the eye at the point each also had a second eye at the bottom of the curve4 ,the shape of the needle together with the position of the eyes permitted the pointed shuttle1 carrying the second thread1 to pass freely through the loop in the ascending needle thread4 ,the fabric was carried by a pair of cloth rollers1 capable of sliding in a horizontal plane in both a lateral and a lengthwise direction4 ,these combined movements were sufficient to enable the operator to produce almost every embroidered design4 ,the ornamenting1 which might be a yarn1 cord1 or gimp1 was carried by the shuttle thread4 ,there was no tension on the shuttle thread1 which was held in place by the thread from the needle4 ,the stitch produced was a form of couching4#cb ,it was in no sense a lockstitch4 ,fisher1 who was the inventor1 readily admitted at a later date that he had not had the slightest idea of producing a sewing machine1 in the utilitarian meaning of the term4 ,although it has not been established that this machine was ever put into practical operation1 ,fisher's invention was to have a far-reaching effect on the development of the sewing machine in ,england4 ,,footnotes3 #a ,,charles ,m4 ,,karch1 ,needles3 ,historical and ,descriptive 7#ab ,census ,u4,s41 vol4 ,x1 #aijb71 pp4 #dbi-dcb4 #b ,,florence ,,lewis ,,may1 ,hispanic ,lace and ,lace ,making 7,new ,york1 #aici71 pp4 #bfg-bga4 #c ,diderot's ,l',encyclopdie1 ou dictionnaire raisonn des sciences1 des arts et des mtiers 4441 vol4 ,,ii 7#agfc71 ,plates ,brodeur1 plate ,,ii4 #d ,the term crochet1 as used today1 became the modern counterpart of the ,spanish punto de aguja about the second quarter of the #aith century4 #e ,sewing ,machine ,news 7#ahhj71 vol4 #a1 no4 #g1 p4 #b4 #f ,this model of ,saint's machine was bequeathed by ,mr4 ,wilson to the ,south ,kensington ,museum1 ,london1 ,england4 #g ,sewing ,machine ,news 7#ahhj71 vol4 #a1 no4 #h1 p4 #b4 #h ,ibid4 #i ,,erich ,,luth1 ,ein ,mayener ,strumpfwirker1 ,balthasar ,krems1 #agfj-ahac1 ,erfinder der ,nhmaschine1 p4 #aj1 states that the machine used an eye-pointed needle4 ,,wilhelm ,,renters1 ,praktisches ,wissen von der ,nhmaschine1 p4 #d1 states that ,krems used a hooked needle4 ,renters probably mistook the hooked retaining pin for the needle4 #aj ,dr4 ,dahmen1 ,burgermeister of ,mayen1 stated in a letter of ,october #h1 #aifc1 that the original ,krems machine was turned over to the officials of ,mayen by ,krems' descendants about the turn of the century4 ,he verified that the machine used an eye-pointed needle4 ,about #aibj the machine was placed in the ,eifelmuseum in ,genovevaburg2 some of the unessential parts were restored4 ,the machine now at this museum is the one pictured in ,luth's book4 ,a replica of the machine is in the ,deutsches ,museum1 ,munich1 ,germany4 #aa ,,josef ,,madersperger1 ,beschreibung einer ,nhmaschine 7,vienna1 ca4 #ahaf74 ,the exact date of this small booklet is not known4 ,in the booklet ,madersperger reports that he had received a patent in #ahad for his first machine adapted to straight sewing4 ,however1 the machine described and illustrated in this booklet was one that could stitch semicircles and small figures4 ,in ,kunst und ,gewerbeblatt1 a periodical 7,munich1 ,germany1 #ahag1 pp4 #ccf-cch71 reference is made to the ,madersperger machine and a statement to the effect that the inventor had published a leaflet describing his machine4 ,the leaflet referred to is believed to be the one under discussion4 ,for this reason it must have been published between #ahad and #ahag1 therefore ca4 #ahaf4 ,the only copy of this booklet known to this author is in the ,new ,york ,public ,library4 ,it was probably not known to authors ,luth and ,renters4 ,the author wishes to thank ,miss ,rita ,j4 ,adrosko of her staff for her important help in translating these ,german publications4 #ab ,sewing ,machine ,times 7#aijg71 vol4 #bf1 no4 #hfe1 p4 #a4 #ac ,there are no known models of these early ,madersperger machines in existence4 ,although the ,sewing ,machine ,times reported in the #aijg issue that the #ahad sewing machine was then on exhibition in the ,museum of the ,vienna ,polytechnic1 the illustration shown was of ,madersperger's #ahci machine4 ,in a letter from the director of the ,technisches ,museum fr ,industrie und ,gewerbe in ,vienna1 received in #aifb1 it was stated that the original #ahad ,madersperger machine was in their museum4 ,the photographs that were sent1 however1 were of the #ahci machine4 ,this machine is entirely different from the #ahad-ahag machine1 as can readily be seen by the reader 7figs4 #g and #aj74 #ad ,,john ,p4 ,,stambaugh1 ,a ,history of the ,sewing ,machine 7,hartford1 ,conn41 #ahgb71 p4 #ac2 ,sewing ,machine ,news 7,july #ahhj71 vol4 #a1 no4 #ab1 p4 #d4 #ae ,sewing ,machines1 ,johnson's ,universal ,cyclopaedia 7,new ,york1 #ahgh71 vol4 #d1 p4 #bje4 ,the #ahgd edition does not include this reference to ,rev4 ,john ,adam ,dodge4 #af ,letters to the author from the ,vermont ,historical ,society 7,nov4 #ac1 #aiec7 and the ,bennington ,historical ,museum and ,art ,gallery 7,may #b1 #aiec74 #ag ,,edmund ,,burke4 ,commissioner of ,patents1 ,list of ,patents for ,inventions and ,designs ,issued by the ,united ,states from #agij to #ahdg 7,washington1 #ahdg74 #ah ,see ,barthelemy ,thimonnier's biographical sketch1 p4 #acg4 #ai ,french patent issued to ,barthelemy ,thimonnier and ,m4 ,ferrand 7who was a tutor at l',ecole des ,mines1 ,saint-,etienne1 and helped finance the patent71 ,july #ag1 #ahcj4 #bj ,the company was located at ,villefranche-sur-,sane1 but no name is recorded4 ,see ,j4 ,granger1 ,thimonnier et la machine coudre 7#aidc71 p4 #af4 #ba ,see ,walter ,hunt's biographical sketch1 p4 #ach4 #bb ,the earliest known reference in print to ,walter ,hunt's sewing machine is in ,sewing by ,machinery3 ,an ,exposition of the ,history of ,patentees of ,various ,sewing ,machines and of the ,rights of the ,public 7,i4 ,m4 ,singer ,co41 #ahec74 ,a more detailed story of ,hunt's invention is in ,sewing ,machine ,news 7#ahhj-ha71 vol4 #b1 no4 #b1 p4 #d2 no4 #d1 p4 #e2 and no4 #h1 pp4 #c and #h4 #bc ,vol4 #b1 no4 #h1 p4 #c4 #bd ,in the opinion and decision of ,c4 ,mason1 ,commissioner of the ,patent ,office1 offered on ,may #bd1 #ahed1 for the ,hunt vs4 ,howe interference suit1 ,mason stated3 ,he ,hunt proves that in #ahcd or #ahce he contrived a machine by which he actually effected his purpose of sewing cloth with considerable success4 #be ,the rebuilt machine1 according to a letter to the author from ,b4 ,f4 ,thompson of the ,singer company1 is believed to have been one of the machines lost in a ,singer factory fire at ,elizabethport1 ,n4,j41 in #ahij4 #bf ,op4 cit4 7footnote #bd74 #bg ,,edward ,h4 ,,knight1 ,sewing ,machines1 vol4 #c of ,knight's ,american ,mechanical ,dictionary4 #bh ,a seam using the saddler's stitch appears as a neat line of touching stitches on both sides4 ,even when made by hand1 it is sometimes misidentified by the casual observer as the lockstitch because of the uniformity of both sides4 ,if the saddler's stitch was formed of threads of two different colors1 the even stitches on one side of the seam and the odd stitches on the reverse side would be of one color1 and vice versa4 #bi ,the ,life and ,works of ,george ,h4 ,corliss1 privately printed for ,mary ,corliss by the ,american ,historical ,society1 #aicj4 ,the ,corliss family records were turned over to the ,baker ,library1 ,harvard ,university4 ,in a letter addressed to this author by ,robert ,w4 ,lovett of the ,manuscripts ,division on ,august #b1 #aied1 it was reported that there was a record on their ,corliss card to the effect that a model of his sewing machine1 received with the collection1 was turned over to the ,massachusetts ,institute of ,technology2 however1 ,mr4 ,lovett also stated that from a manuscript memoir of ,mr4 ,corliss that it would seem that he developed only the one machine--the patent model4 ,in a letter dated ,november #ae1 #aied1 ,stanley ,backer1 assistant professor of mechanical engineering1 stated that after extensive inquiries they were unable to locate the model at ,m4,i4,t4 ,in #aifd1 ,dr4 ,robert ,woodbury1 of ,m4,i4,t41 turned over to the ,smithsonian ,institution the official copies of the ,corliss drawings and the specifications which had been awarded to the inventor by the ,patent ,office4 ,it is possible that this may have been the material noted on the ,harvard ,university card as having been transferred to ,m4,i4,t4 #cj ,sewing ,machine ,times 7,july #aj1 #aijg71 vol4 #bf1 no4 #heh1 p4 #a4 #ca ,this is the earliest known patent using the combination of an eye-pointed needle and a shuttle to form a stitch4 #cb ,in embroidery1 couching is the technique of laying a decorative thread on the surface of the fabric and stitching it into place with a second less-conspicuous thread4 ,chapter ,two ,illustration3 ,figure #ad4--;,,howe',s ,,prepatent ,,model of #ahde1 and the box used by the inventor to carry the machine to ,england in #ahdg4 7,smithsonian photo #deejf-;,b47 ,elements of a ,successful ,machine ,the requirements for producing a successful1 practical sewing machine were a support for the cloth1 a needle to carry the thread through the fabric and a combining device to form the stitch1 a feeding mechanism to permit one stitch to follow another1 tension controls to provide an even delivery of thread1 and the related mechanism to insure the precise performance of each operation in its proper sequence4 ,weisenthal had added a point to the eye-end of the needle1 ,saint supported the fabric by placing it in a horizontal position with a needle entering vertically1 ,duncan successfully completed a chainstitch for embroidery purposes1 ,chapman used a needle with an eye at its point and did not pass it completely through the fabric1 ,krems stitched circular caps with an eye-pointed needle used with a hook to form a chainstitch1 ,thimonnier used the hooked needle to form a chainstitch on a fabric laid horizontally1 and ,hunt created a new stitch that was more readily adapted to sewing by machine than the hand stitches had been1 but1 although each may have had the germ of an idea1 a successful machine had not evolved4 ,there were to be hundreds of patents issued in an attempt to solve these and the numerous minor problems that would ensue4 ,but the problems were solved4 ,and1 in spite of its ,old ,world inception1 the successful sewing machine can be credited as an ,american invention4 ,although the invention of the practical sewing machine1 like most important inventions1 was a many-man project1 historians generally give full credit to ,elias ,howe1 ,jr4 ,though such credit may be overly generous1 ,howe's important role in this history cannot be denied4 ,elias ,howe1 ,jr41 was born on a farm near ,spencer1 ,massachusetts1 but he left home at an early age to learn the machinist's trade4#cc ,after serving an apprenticeship in ,lowell1 he moved to ,boston4 ,in the late #ahcjs1 while employed in the instrument shop of ,ari ,davis1 ,howe is reported to have overheard a discussion concerning the need for a machine that would sew4 ,in #ahdc1 when illness kept him from his job for days at a time1 he remembered the conversation and the promises of the rich reward that reputedly awaited the successful inventor4 ,determined to invent such a machine1 he finally managed to produce sufficient results to interest ,george ,fisher in buying a one-half interest in his proposed invention4 ,by ,april #ahde1 ,howe's machine 7fig4 #ad7 was used to sew all the seams of two woolen suits for men's clothing4 ,he continued to demonstrate his machine but found that interest was1 at best1 indifferent4 ,nevertheless1 ,howe completed a second machine 7fig4 #ae71 which he submitted with his application for a patent4 ,the fifth ,united ,states patent 7,no4 #d1gej7 for a sewing machine was issued to him on ,september #aj1 #ahdf4 ,the machine used a grooved and curved eye-pointed needle carried by a vibrating arm1 with the needle supplied with thread from a spool4 ,loops of thread from the needle were locked by a thread carried by a shuttle1 which was moved through the loop by means of reciprocating drivers4 ,the cloth was suspended in a vertical position1 impaled on pins projecting from a baster plate1 which moved intermittently under the needle by means of a toothed wheel4 ,the length of each stitching operation depended upon the length of the baster plate1 and the seams were necessarily straight4 ,when the end of the baster plate reached the position of the needle1 the machine was stopped4 ,the cloth was removed from the baster plate1 which was moved back to its original position4 ,the cloth was moved forward on the pins1 and the seam continued4 ,in his patent specifications1 ,howe claimed the following3 #a4 ,the forming of the seam by carrying a thread through the cloth by means of a curved needle on the end of a vibrating arm1 and the passing of a shuttle furnished with its bobbin1 in the manner set forth1 between the needle and the thread which it carried1 under combination and arrangement of parts substantially the same with that described4 #b4 ,the lifting of the thread that passes through the needle-eye by means of the lifting-rod1 for the purpose of forming a loop of loose thread that is to be subsequently drawn in by the passage of the shuttle1 as herein fully described1 said lifting-rod being furnished with a lifting pin1 and governed in its motion by the guide-pieces and other devices1 arranged and operating substantially as described4 #c4 ,the holding of the thread that is given out by the shuttle1 so as to prevent its unwinding from the shuttle-bobbin after the shuttle has passed through the loop1 said thread being held by means of the lever or slipping-piece1 as herein made known1 or in any other manner that is substantially the same in its operation and result4 #d4 ,the manner of arranging and combining the small lever with the sliding box1 in combination with the spring-piece1 for the purpose of tightening the stitch as the needle is retracted4 #e4 ,the holding of the cloth to be sewed by the use of a baster-plate furnished with points for that purpose1 and with holes enabling it to operate as a rack in the manner set forth1 thereby carrying the cloth forward and dispensing altogether with the necessity of basting the parts together4 ,the five claims1 which were allowed ,howe in his patent1 have been quoted to show that he did not claim the invention of the eye-pointed needle1 for which he has so often been credited4 ,the court judgment#cd that upheld ,howe's claim to his patented right to control the use of the eye-pointed needle in combination with a shuttle to form a lockstitch was mistakenly interpreted by some as verifying control of the eye-pointed needle itself4 ,illustration3 ,figure #ae4--;,,howe',s ,,patent ,,model1 #ahdf4 7,smithsonian photo #deebe-;,b47 ,after patenting his invention1 ,howe spent three discouraging years in both the ,united ,states and in ,england trying to interest manufacturers in building his sewing machine1 under license4 ,finally1 for #bej sterling1 he sold the ,british patent rights to ,william ,thomas and further agreed to adapt the machine to ,thomas' manufacture of umbrellas and corsets4#ce ,this did not prove to be a financial success for ,howe and by #ahdi he was back in the ,united ,states1 once again without funds4 ,illustration3 ,figure #af4--;,,an ,,enlargement of the stitching area4 7,smithsonian photo #deebe-;,b47 ,on his return1 ,howe was surprised to find that other inventors were engaged in the sewing-machine problem and that sewing machines were being manufactured for sale4 ,the sixth ,united ,states sewing-machine patent 7,no4 #e1idb7 had been issued to ,john ,a4 ,bradshaw on ,november #bh1 #ahdh1 for a machine specifically stated as correcting the defects in the ,e4 ,howe patent4 ,bradshaw did not purport that his machine was a new invention4 ,his specifications read3 ,the curved needle used in ,howe's machine will not by itself form the loop in the thread1 which is necessary for the flying bobbin1 with its case1 to pass through1 and has1 therefore1 to be aided in that operation by a lifting-pin1 with the necessary mechanism to operate it4 ,this is a very bungling device1 and is a great incumbrance to the action of the machine1 being an impediment in the way of introducing the cloth to be sewed1 difficult to keep properly adjusted1 and very frequently gets entangled between the thread and the needle1 by which the latter is frequently broken4 ,this accident happens very often1 not withstanding all the precaution which it is possible for the most careful operator to exercise2 and inasmuch as the delay occasioned thereby is very considerable1 and the needles costly and difficult to replace1 it is therefore very important that their breaking in this manner be prevented1 which in my machine is done in the most effectual manner by dispensing with the lifting-pin altogether1 the loop for the flying bobbin to pass through being made with certainty and of the proper form by means of my angular needle moved in a particular manner just before the flying-bobbin case is thrown4 ,the shuttle and its bobbin for giving off the thread in ,howe's machine are very defective 444 my neat and simple bobbin-case 444 gives off its thread with certainty and uniformity4444 ,the baster-plate in the ,howe machine is very inconvenient and troublesome 444 in my machine 444 the clamp 444 is a very simple and efficient device4444 ,the ,howe machine is stationary1 and the baster-plate or cloth-holder progressive4 ,the ,bradshaw machine is progressive and the cloth-holder stationary4 ,bradshaw's patent accurately described some of the defects of the ,howe machine1 but other inventors were later to offer better solutions to the problems4 ,illustration3 ,figure #ag4--,,morey ,,and ,,johnson sewing machine1 #ahdi4 ,below3 ,the machine is marked with the name of its maker1 ,safford ,williams4 ,the number #di is a serial number4 ,missing parts have been replaced with plastic4 7,smithsonian photo #dhdjj2 brass plate3 #dhdjj-;,h47 ,although the ,bradshaw machine was not in current manufacture1 a machine based on it received the seventh ,united ,states sewing-machine patent4 ,patent #f1jii was issued to ,charles ,morey and ,joseph ,b4 ,johnson on ,february #f1 #ahdi4 ,their machine 7fig4 #ag7 was being offered for sale even before the patent was issued4 ,this was the first ,american patent for a chainstitch machine4 ,the stitch was made by an eye-pointed needle carrying the thread through the fabric2 the thread was detained by a hook until the loop was enchained by the succeeding one4 ,the fabric was held vertically by a baster plate in a manner similar to the ,howe machine4 ,although not claimed in the patent description1 the ,morey and ,johnson machine also had a bar device for stripping the cloth from the needle4 ,this bar had a slight motion causing a yielding pressure to be exerted on the cloth4 ,although the patent was not granted until ,february #f1 #ahdi1 the application had been filed in ,april of the previous year4 ,the machine was featured in the ,scientific ,american on ,january #bg1 #ahdi 7fig4 #ah73 ,morey and ,johnson ,machine--,these machines are very accurately adjusted in all their parts to work in harmony1 without this they would be of no use4 ,but they are now used in most of the ,print ,works and ,bleach ,works in ,new ,england1 and especially by the ,east ,boston ,flour ,company4 ,it sews about one yard per minute1 and we consider it superior to the ,london ,sewing ,machine the specification of which is in our possession4 ,it ,morey and ,johnson is more simple--and this is a great deal4444 ,the price of a machine and right to use #ace4cf ,an improvement in the ,morey and ,johnson machine was patented by ,jotham ,s4 ,conant for which he was issued a patent on ,may #h1 #ahdi4 ,conant's machine offered a slight modification of the cloth bar and of the method of keeping the cloth taut during the stitching operation4 ,no successful use of it is known4 ,a second improvement of the ,morey and ,johnson patent was also issued on ,may #h1 #ahdi2 this ,united ,states patent 7,no4 #f1dci7 was to ,john ,bachelder for the first continuous1 but intermittent1 sewing mechanism4 ,as shown in the patent model 7fig4 #ai71 his clothholder consisted of an endless belt supported by and running around three or any other suitable number of cylindrical rollers4 ,a series of pointed wires projected from the surface of the belt near the edge immediately adjacent to the needle4 ,the wires could be placed at regular or irregular distances as required4 ,the shaft of one of the cylindrical rollers1 which supported the endless clothholder1 carried a ratchet wheel advanced by the action of a pawl connected to the end of the crankshaft by a small crankpin1 whose position or distance from the axis of rotation of the shaft could be adjusted4 ,illustration3 ,figure #ah4--;,a ,,morey ,,and ,,johnson sewing machine as illustrated in ,scientific ,american1 ,january #bg1 #ahdi4 7,smithsonian photo #degga47 ,by this adjustment the extent of the vertical travel of the impelling pawl was regulated to control the length of the stitch4 ,a spring catch kept the ratchet wheel in place at the end of each forward rotation of the wheel by the pawl4 ,a roller placed over the endless belt at its middle roller pressed the cloth onto the wire points4 ,a curved piece of metal was bent over and down upon the top of the belt so that the cloth1 as it was sewed1 was carried toward and against the piece by the belt4 ,the cloth rose upon and over the piece and was separated from the points4 ,when the machine was in motion the cloth was carried forward1 passed under the needle1 was stitched1 and finally1 passed the separator and off the belt4 ,a vertically reciprocating1 straight1 eye-pointed needle1 a horizontal supporting surface1 and a yielding cloth presser were all used1 but none were claimed as part of the patent4 ,these were later specifically claimed in reissues of this patent4 ,bachelder's one specific claim1 the endless feed belt1 was not limited to belt feeding only4 ,as he explained in the patent1 a revolving table or a cylinder might be substituted4 ,illustration3 ,figure #ai4--;,,bachelder',s ,,patent ,,model1 #ahdi4 7,smithsonian photo #deegb74 ,bachelder did not manufacture machines1 but his patent was sold in the mid-#ahejs to ,i4 ,m4 ,singer4#cg ,it eventually became one of the most important patents to be contributed to the ,sewing-,machine ,combination1 a patent pool1 which is discussed in more detail on pages #da and #db4 ,while new ideas and inventors continued to provide the answers to some of the sewing-machine problems1 ,elias ,howe began a series of patent suits to sustain the rights that he felt were his4 ,since his interest had never been in constructing machines for sale1 it was absolutely essential for ,howe to protect his royalty rights in order to realize any return from his patent4 ,he was reported#ch to have supervised the construction of #ad sewing machines at a shop#ci on ,gold ,street in ,new ,york toward the close of #ahej4 ,sworn contemporary testimony indicates that the machines were of no practical use4#dj ,elias stated1 in his application for his patent extension1#da that he made only one machine in #ahej-ea4 ,in #aheb he advertised#db territorial rights and machines1 but apparently did not realize any financial success until he sold a half interest in his patent to ,george ,bliss in ,november #aheb4dc ,bliss later began manufacturing machines that he initially sold as ,howe's ,patent2 however1 these machines were substantially different from the basic ,howe machine4 ,illustration3 ,figure #bj4--;,,blodgett ,,lerow ,,sewing ,,machine1 #ahej1 as manufactured by ,a4 ,bartholf1 ,new ,york2 the serial number of the machine is #ai4 ,at right1 an original brass plate from the same type of machine with needle arm and presser foot and arm1 serial number #aai2 the plate1 however1 does not fit the machine correctly4 7,smithsonian photo #dhddj-;,d2 brass plate3 #dhddj-,k47 ,on ,may #ah1 #ahec1 ,elias ,howe granted his first royalty license to ,wheeler1 ,wilson ,company4 ,within a few months licenses were also granted to ,grover ,baker2 ,a4 ,bartholf2 ,nichols ,bliss2 ,j4 ,a4 ,lerow2 ,woolridge1 ,keene1 and ,moore2 and ,a4 ,b4 ,howe1 the brother of ,elias4 ,these licenses granted the manufacturer the right to use any part of the ,howe patent1#dd but it did not mean that the machines were ,elias ,howe machines4 ,when a royalty license was paid1 the patent date and sometimes the name was stamped onto the machine4 ,for this reason1 these machines are sometimes mistakenly thought to be ,elias ,howe machines4 ,they are not4 ,howe was also prevented from manufacturing a practical machine unless he paid a royalty to other inventors4 ,three of the major manufacturers and ,howe resolved their differences by forming the ,sewing ,machine ,combination4 ,although ,howe did not enter the manufacturing competition for many years1 he profited substantially from the royalty terms of the combination4 ,in #ahfj1 he applied for and received a seven-year extension on his patent4 ,illustration3 ,figure #ba4--;,,blodgett ,,lerow ,,sewing ,,machine1 #ahej1 stamped with the legend ,goddard1 ,rice ,co41 ,makers1 ,worcester1 ,mass4 and the serial number #cg4 ,below3 ,an original brass plate marked ,no4 #ch2 this plate fits the machine perfectly4 7,smithsonian photo #dhddj-;,e2 brass plate3 #dhddj-;,j47 ,there were ,howe family machines for sale during this period1 but these were the ones that ,amasa ,howe had been manufacturing since #ahec4 ,the machine was an excellent one and received the highest medal for sewing machines1 together with many flattering testimonials1 at the ,london ,international ,exhibition in #ahfb4 ,after the publication of this award the demand for 7,amasa7 ,howe sewing machines was greatly increased at home and abroad4 ,elias took this opportunity to gain entry into the manufacturing business by persuading ,amasa to let him build a factory at ,bridgeport1 ,connecticut1 and manufacture the 7,amasa7 ,howe machines4 ,two years passed before the factory was completed1 and ,amasa's agents were discouraged4 ,the loss could have been regained1 but the machines produced at ,bridgeport were not of the quality of the earlier machines4 ,amasa attempted to rebuild the ,bridgeport machines1 but finally abandoned them and resumed manufacturing machines in ,new ,york under his own immediate supervision4#de ,elias formed his own company and continued to manufacture sewing machines4 ,in #ahfg he requested a second extension of his patent1 but the request was refused4 ,elias ,howe died in ,october of the same year4 ,meanwhile1 another important sewing machine of a different principle had also been patented in #ahdi4 ,this was the machine of ,sherburne ,c4 ,blodgett1 a tailor by trade1 who was supported financially by ,john ,a4 ,lerow4 ,united ,states patent #f1gff was issued to both men on ,october #b1 #ahdi4 ,in the patent1 the machine was termed as our new ',rotary ,sewing ,machine'4 ,the shuttle movement was continuous1 revolving in a circle1 rather than reciprocating as in the earlier machines4 ,automatic tension was initiated1 restraining the slack thread from interference with the point of the needle4 ,illustration3 ,figure #bb4--,,wilson',s ,,prepatent ,,model for his reciprocating-shuttle machine1 #ahej4 7,smithsonian photo #deebe-;,a47 ,the ,blodgett and ,lerow machine was built by several shops4 ,one of the earliest was the shop of ,orson ,c4 ,phelps on ,harvard ,place in ,boston4 ,phelps took the ,blodgett and ,lerow machine to the sixth exhibition of the ,massachusetts ,charitable ,mechanics ,association in ,september #ahej and won a silver medal and this praise1 ,this machine performed admirably2 it is an exceedingly ingenious and compact machine1 able to perform tailor's sewing beautifully and thoroughly4#df ,although ,phelps had won the earliest known premium for a sewing machine1 and although the machine was produced commercially to a considerable extent 7figs4 #bj and #ba71 one outstanding flaw in its operation could not be overlooked4 ,as the shuttle passed around the six-inch circular shuttle race1 it put a twist in the thread 7or took one out if the direction was reversed7 at each revolution4 ,this caused a constant breaking of the thread1 a condition that could not be rectified without changing the principle of operation4 ,such required changes were later to lead ,i4 ,m4 ,singer1 another well-known name1 into the work of improving this machine4 ,also exhibited at the same #ahej mechanics fair was the machine of ,allen ,b4 ,wilson4 ,wilson's machine received only a bronze medal1 but his inventive genius was to have a far greater effect on the development of the practical sewing machine than the work of ,blodgett and ,lerow4 ,a4 ,b4 ,wilson#dg was one of the ablest of the early inventors in the field of mechanical stitching1 and probably the most original4 ,wilson1 a native of ,willett1 ,new ,york1 was a young cabinetmaker at ,adrian1 ,michigan1 in #ahdg when he first conceived of a machine that would sew4 ,he was apparently unaware of parallel efforts by inventors in distant ,new ,england4 ,after an illness1 he moved to ,pittsfield1 ,massachusetts1 and pursued his idea in earnest4 ,by ,november #ahdh he had produced the basic drawings for a machine that would make a lockstitch4 ,the needle1 piercing the cloth1 left a loop of thread below the seam4 ,a shuttle carrying a second thread passed through the loop1 and as the tension was adjusted a completed lockstitch was formed 7fig4 #bb74 ,wilson's shuttle was pointed on both ends to form a stitch on both its forward and backward motion1 a decided improvement over the shuttles of ,hunt and ,howe1 which formed stitches in only one direction4 ,after each stitch the cloth was advanced for the next stitch by a sliding bar against which the cloth was held by a stationary presser4 ,while the needle was still in the cloth and holding it1 the sliding bar returned for a fresh grip on the cloth4 ,wilson made a second machine1 on the same principle1 and applied for a patent4 ,he was approached by the owners of the ,bradshaw #ahdh patent1 who claimed control of the double-pointed shuttle4 ,although this claim was without justification1 as can be seen by examining the ,bradshaw patent specifications1 ,wilson did not have sufficient funds to fight the claim4 ,in order to avoid a suit1 he relinquished to ,a4 ,p4 ,kline and ,edward ,lee1 a one-half interest in his ,u4,s4 patent #g1ggf which was issued on ,november #ab1 #ahej 7fig4 #bc74 ,illustration3 ,figure #bc4--,,wilson',s ,,patent ,,model1 #ahej4 7,smithsonian photo #deejd-;,h47 ,inventor ,wilson had been associated with ,kline and ,lee 7,e4 ,lee ,co47 for only a few months1 when1 on ,november #be1 #ahej1 he agreed to sell his remaining interest to his partners for #b1jjj4 ,he retained only limited rights for ,new ,jersey and for ,massachusetts4 ,the sale was fruitless for the inventor1 as no payment was ever made4 ,how much money ,e4 ,e4 ,lee ,co4 realized from the ,wilson machine is difficult to determine1 but they ran numerous ads in the #ahea and #aheb issues of ,scientific ,american4 ,a typical one reads3 ,a4 ,b4 ,wilson's ,sewing ,machine1 justly allowed to be the cheapest and best now in use1 patented ,november #ab1 #ahej2 can be seen on exhibition at #aie and #aig ,broadway 7formerly the ,franklin ,house1 ,room #bc1 third floor7 or to ,e4 ,e4 ,lee ,co41 ,earle's ,hotel4 ,rights for territory or machines can be had by applying to ,george ,r4 ,chittenden1 ,agent4#dh ,illustration3 ,figure #bd4--,,wilson',s ,,prepatent ,,model for his rotary hook1 #ahea4 7,smithsonian photo #deejf-;,e47 ,illustration3 ,figure #be4--,,wilson',s ,,rotary-,,hook ,,patent ,,model1 #ahea4 7,smithsonian photo #deeje-;,b47 ,another reads3 ,a4 ,b4 ,wilson's ,sewing ,machine 444 the best and only practical sewing machine--not larger than a lady's work box--for the trifling sum of #ce4di ,wilson severed relations with ,lee and ,kline in early #ahea shortly after meeting ,nathaniel ,wheeler1 who was to become his partner in a happier1 more profitable enterprise involving the sewing machine4 ,illustration3 ,figure #bf4--,,wilson',s stationary-bobbin patent model1 #aheb2 a commercial machine was used since ,wheeler1 ,wilson1 ,co4 had begun manufacturing machines the previous year4 7,smithsonian photo #deejd-;,b47 ,wilson1 with his two partners1 was occupying a room in the old ,sun ,building at #abh ,fulton ,street1 when ,wheeler1 on a business trip to ,new ,york ,city1 learned of the ,wilson sewing machine4 ,wheeler examined the machine1 saw its possibilities1 and at once contracted with ,e4 ,lee ,co4 to make #ejj of them4 ,at the same time he engaged ,wilson to go with him to ,watertown1 ,connecticut1 to perfect the machine and supervise its manufacture4 ,meanwhile1 ,wilson had been working on a substitute for the shuttle4 ,he showed his model of the device1 which became known as the rotary hook1 to ,wheeler who was so convinced of its superiority that he decided to develop this new machine and leave ,wilson's first machine to the others1 who1 by degrees1 had become its owners4 ,wilson now applied all his effort to improving the rotary hook1 for which he received his second patent on ,august #ab1 #ahea 7figs4 #bd and #be74 ,wheeler1 his two partners ,warren and ,woodruff1 and ,wilson now formed a new copartnership--,wheeler1 ,wilson1 and ,company4 ,they began the manufacture of the machines under the patent1 which combined the rotary hook and a reciprocating bobbin4 ,the rotary hook extended or opened more widely the loop of the needle thread1 while a reciprocating bobbin carried its thread through the extended loop4 ,to avoid litigation which the reciprocating bobbin might have caused1 ,wilson contrived his third outstanding invention--the stationary bobbin4 ,this was a feature of the first machine produced by the new company in #ahea1 though the patent for the stationary bobbin was not issued until ,june #ae1 #aheb 7fig4 #bf74 ,in all reciprocating-shuttle machines a certain loss of power is incurred in driving forward1 stopping1 and bringing back the shuttle at each stitch2 also1 the machines are rather noisy1 owing to the striking of the driver against the shuttle at each stroke4 ,these objections were removed by ,wilson's rotary hook and stationary bobbin4 ,the locking of the needle thread with the bobbin thread was accomplished1 not by driving a shuttle through the loop of the needle thread1 but by passing that loop under the bobbin4 ,the driving shaft carried the circular rotary hook1 one of the sewing machine's most beautiful contrivances4 ,the success of the machine is indicated in an article that appeared in the ,june #ahec issue of ,scientific ,american3 ,there are #cjj of these machines now in operation in various parts of the country1 and the work which they can perform cannot be surpassed4444 ,the time must soon come when every private family that has much sewing to do1 will have one of these neat and perfect machines2 indeed many private families have them now4444 ,the price of one all complete is #abe2 every machine is made under the eye of the inventor at the company's machine shop1 ,watertown1 ,connecticut1 so that every one is warranted 444 agreement between ,mr4 ,howe and ,messrs4 ,wheeler1 ,wilson ,co41 so every customer will be perfectly protected4444#ej ,illustration3 ,figure #bg4--,,wilson',s four-motion-feed patent model1 #ahed1 is not known to be in existence2 this is a commercial machine of the period4 ,the plate is stamped ,a4 ,b4 ,wilson1 ,patented ,aug4 #ab1 #ahea1 ,watertown1 ,conn41 ,no4 #a4444 7,smithsonian photo #deejd47 ,this agreement was important to sales1 as ,elias ,howe was known to have sued purchasers of machines1 as well as rival inventors and companies4 ,the business was on a substantial basis by ,october #ahec1 and a stock company was formed under the name of ,wheeler ,wilson ,manufacturing ,company4#ea ,a little more than a year later1 on ,december #ai1 #ahed1 ,wilson's fourth important patent 7,u4,s4 patent #ab1aaf7--;for the four-motion cloth feed--was issued to him 7fig4 #bg74 ,in this development1 the flat-toothed surface in contact with the cloth moved forward carrying the cloth with it2 then it dropped a little1 so as not to touch the cloth2 next it moved backward2 then in the fourth motion it pushed up against the cloth and was ready to repeat the forward movements4 ,this simple and effective feed method is still used today1 with only minor modifications1 in almost every sewing machine4 ,this feed with the rotary hook and the stationary circular-disk bobbin1 completed the essential features of ,wilson's machine4 ,it was original and fundamentally different from all other machines of that time4 ,the resulting ,wheeler and ,wilson machine made a lockstitch by means of a curved eye-pointed needle carried by a vibrating arm projecting from a rock shaft connected by link and eccentric strap with an eccentric on the rotating hook shaft4 ,this shaft had at its outer end the rotary hook1 provided with a point adapted to enter the loop of needle thread4 ,as the hook rotated1 it passed into and drew down the loop of needle-thread1 which was held by means of a loop check1 while the point of the hook entered a new loop4 ,when the first loop was cast off--the face of the hook being beveled for that purpose--it was drawn upward by the action of the hook upon the loop through which it was then passing4 ,during the rotation of the hook each loop was passed around a disk bobbin provided with the second thread and serving the part of the shuttle in other machines4 ,the four-motion feed was actuated in this machine by means of a spring bar and a cam in conjunction with the mandrel4 ,from the beginning1 ,wheeler and ,wilson had looked beyond the use of the sewing machine solely by manufacturers and had seen the demand for a light-running1 lightweight machine for sewing in the home4 ,wilson's inventions lent themselves to this design1 and ,wheeler and ,wilson led the way to the introduction of the machine as a home appliance4 ,other manufacturers followed4 ,when the stock company was formed1 ,mr4 ,wilson retired from active participation in the business at his own request4 ,his health had not been good1 and a nervous condition made it advisable for him to be freed from the responsibility of daily routine4 ,during this period ,wilson's inventive contributions to the sewing machine continued as noted1 and in addition he worked on inventions concerning cotton picking and illuminating gases4 ,wheeler and ,wilson's foremost competitor in the early years of sewing-machine manufacture was the ,singer ,company1 which overtook them by #ahgj and finally absorbed the entire ,wheeler and ,wilson ,manufacturing ,company in #aije4 ,the founder of this most successful #aith-century company was ,isaac ,singer1 a native of ,pittstown1 ,new ,york4#eb ,successively a mechanic1 an actor1 and an inventor1 ,singer came to ,boston in #ahej to promote his invention of a machine for carving printers' wooden type4 ,he exhibited the carving machine in ,orson ,phelps' shop1 where the ,blodgett and ,lerow machines were being manufactured4 ,because the carving machine evoked but little interest1 ,singer turned his attention to the sewing machine as a device offering considerable opportunity for both improvement and financial reward4 ,phelps liked ,singer's ideas and joined with ,george ,zieber1 the publisher who had been backing the carving-machine venture1 to support ,singer in the work of improving the sewing machine4 ,his improvements in the ,blodgett and ,lerow machine included a table to hold the cloth horizontally rather than vertically 7this had been used by ,bachelder and ,wilson also71 a yielding vertical presser foot to hold the cloth down as the needle was drawn up1 and a vertically reciprocating straight needle driven by a rotary1 overhanging shaft4 ,the story of the invention and first trial of the machine was told by ,singer in the course of a patent suit sometime later3 ,i explained to them how the work was to be fed over the table and under the presser-foot1 by a wheel1 having short pins on its periphery1 projecting through a slot in the table1 so that the work would be automatically caught1 fed and freed from the pins1 in place of attaching and detaching the work to and from the baster plate by hand1 as was necessary in the ,blodgett machine4 ,phelps and ,zieber were satisfied that it would work4 ,i had no money4 ,zieber offered forty dollars to build a model machine4 ,phelps offered his best endeavors to carry out my plan and make the model in his shop2 if successful we were to share equally4 ,i worked at it day and night1 sleeping but three or four hours a day out of the twenty-four1 and eating generally but once a day1 as ,i knew ,i must make it for the forty dollars or not get it at all4 ,the machine was completed in eleven days4 ,about nine o'clock in the evening we got the parts together and tried it2 it did not sew2 the workmen exhausted with almost unremitting work1 pronounced it a failure and left me one by one4 ,zieber held the lamp1 and ,i continued to try the machine1 but anxiety and incessant work had made me nervous and ,i could not get tight stitches4 ,sick at heart1 about midnight1 we started for our hotel4 ,on the way we sat down on a pile of boards1 and ,zieber mentioned that the loose loops of thread were on the upper side of the cloth4 ,it flashed upon me that we had forgot to adjust the tension on the needle thread4 ,we went back1 adjusted the tension1 tried the machine1 sewed five stitches perfectly and the thread snapped1 but that was enough4 ,at three o'clock the next day the machine was finished4 ,i took it to ,new ,york and employed ,mr4 ,charles ,m4 ,keller to patent it4 ,it was used as a model in the application for the patent4#ec ,the first machine was completed about the last of ,september #ahej4 ,the partners considered naming the machine the ,jenny ,lind1 after the ,swedish soprano who was then the toast of ,america4 ,it was reported#ed to have been advertised under that name when the machine was first placed on the market1 but the name was soon changed to ,singer's ,perpendicular ,action ,sewing ,machine or simply the ,singer ,sewing ,machine--a name correctly anticipated to achieve a popularity of its own4 ,according to the contract made by the partners1 the hurriedly built first machine was to be sent to the ,patent ,office with an application in the name of ,singer and ,phelps4 ,an application was made between the end of ,september #ahej and ,march #ad1 #ahea1 as ,singer refers to it briefly in the application formally filed on ,april #af1 #ahea1 stating1 ,my present invention is of improvements on a machine heretofore invented by me and for which an application is now pending4#ee ,illustration3 ,figure #bh4--,,singer',s ,,patent ,,model1 #ahea2 a commercial machine was used1 bearing the serial number #bb4 7,smithsonian photo #deegb-;,d47 ,in late ,december #ahej ,singer had bought ,phelps' interest in the company4 ,whether the first application was later abandoned by ,singer or whether it was rejected is not known1#ef but a patent on the first application was never issued4 ,the final disposition of this first machine has remained a mystery4#eg ,illustration3 ,figure #bi4--,,singer',s ,,perpendicular ,,action sewing machine1 an engraving from ,illustrated ,news1 ,june #be1 #ahec1 which states3 ,the sewing machine has1 within the last two years acquired a wide celebrity1 and established its character as one of the most efficient labor saving instruments ever introduced to public notice4444 ,we must not forget to call attention to the fact that this instrument is peculiarly calculated for female operatives4 ,they should never allow its use to be monopolized by men4 7,smithsonian photo #dhjia-;,d47 ,a few machines were manufactured in late #ahej and early #ahea1 and these attracted considerable attention2 orders began to be received in advance of production4 ,the pending patent application did not delay the manufacture1 and a number of machines were sold before ,august #ab1 #ahea1 when the patent was granted4 ,the patent model is shown in figure #bh4eh ,it made a lockstitch by means of a straight eye-pointed needle and a reciprocating shuttle4 ,the patent claims1 as quoted from the specifications1 were as follows3 #a4 ,giving to the shuttle an additional forward motion after it has been stopped to close the loop1 as described1 for the purpose of drawing the stitch tight1 when such additional motion is given at and in combination with the feed motion of the cloth in the reverse direction1 and the final upward motion of the needle1 as described1 so that the two threads shall be drawn tight at the same time1 as described4 #b4 ,controlling the thread during the downward motion of the needle by the combination of a friction-pad to prevent the slack above the cloth1 with the eye on the needle-carrier for drawing back the thread1 for the purposes and in the manner substantially as described4 #c4 ,placing the bobbin from which the needle is supplied with thread on an adjustable arm attached to the frame1 substantially as described1 when this is combined with the carrying of the said thread through an eye or guide attached to and moving with the needle-carrier1 as described1 whereby any desired length of thread can be given for the formation of the loop without varying the range of motion of the needle1 as described4 ,the feeding described in the ,singer patent was by the friction surface of a wheel1 whose periphery is formed with very fine grooves1 the edges of which are slightly serrated1 against which the cloth is pressed by a spring plate or pad4 ,although claimed by the inventor in the handwritten specifications1 it was not allowed as original4 ,the machines manufactured by the ,singer company 7fig4 #bi7 were duplicates of the patent model4 ,these machines were quite heavy and intended for manufacturing rather than for family use in the home4 ,illustration3 ,figure #cj4--;,i4 ,m4 ,,singer ,,co4 ,,new ,,york ,,showroom of the mid-#ahejs1 as illustrated in ,frank ,leslie's ,illustrated ,newspaper1 ,august #bi1 #aheg2 only manufacturing machines are shown in this illustration4 7,smithsonian photo #dhjia-;,b47 ,illustration3 ,figure #ca4--;,,hunt ,,and ,,webster',s ,,sewing-,,machine ,,manufactory exhibition and salesroom in ,boston1 as illustrated in ,ballou's ,pictorial1 ,july #e1 #ahef2 only manufacturing machines are shown4 7,smithsonian photo #degga-;,a47 ,singer enjoyed demonstrating the machine and showed it to church and social groups and even at circuses2 this personal association then encouraged him to improve its reliability and convenience4 ,he developed a wooden packing case which doubled as a stand for the machine and a treadle to allow it to be operated by foot4 ,because of the dimensions of the packing case1 ,singer put the pivot of the treadle toward its center1 about where the instep of the foot would rest4 ,this produced the heel-and-toe action treadle1 a familiar part of the sewing machine until its replacement by the electric motor4 ,both hands were freed to guide and arrange the cloth that was being stitched4 ,singer also added a flywheel to smooth out the treadle action and later an iron stand with a treadle wide enough for both feet4 ,the treadle had been in use for two years before a rival pointed out that it might have been patented4 ,to ,singer's chagrin it was then too late for patent laws did not permit patenting a device that had been in public use4 ,a new obstacle appeared in the ,singer company's path when ,howe demanded #be1jjj for infringement of his patent4 ,singer and ,zieber decided to fight1 enlisting the legal aid of ,edward ,clark1 a lawyer and financier4 ,howe's action was opposed on the basis of ,hunt's machine of #ahcd1 which they stated had anticipated ,howe's invention4 ,while they were resisting1 ,howe sued three firms that were using and selling ,singer machines4 ,the court order required the selling firms and the purchasers to provide an account of the profits accrued from the sale and the use of the sewing machines and restrained the firms from selling the machines during the pendency of the suit4#ei ,as a result of this action1 a number of ,singer's rivals purchased licenses from ,howe and advertised that anyone could sell their machines without fear of a suit4 ,this gave them a great competitive advantage1 and ,singer and ,clark#fj decided it was best to seek a settlement with ,howe4 ,on ,july #a1 #ahed1 they paid him #ae1jjj and took out a license4 ,illustration3 ,figure #cb4--,,singer',s ,,new ,,family ,,sewing ,,machine1 illustration from a brochure dating about #aheh or #ahei which states3 ,a few months since1 we came to the conclusion that the public taste demanded a sewing machine for family purposes more exclusively2 a machine of smaller size1 and of a lighter and more elegant form2 a machine decorated in the best style of art1 so as to make a beautiful ornament in the parlor or boudoir2 a machine very easily operated1 and rapid in working4444 ,to supply this public want1 we have just produced1 and are now prepared to receive orders for1 ',singer's new ,family ,sewing ,machine4' 7,smithsonian photo #dhjia-;,h47 ,in spite of this defeat1 the ,singer company could claim several important improvements to the sewing machine and the acquisition of the patents rights to the ,morey and ,johnson machine of #ahdi1 which gave them control of the spring or curved arm to hold the cloth by a yielding pressure4 ,although this point had not been claimed in the #ahdi patent1 the established principle of patent law allowed that a novel device introduced and used in a patented machine could be covered by a reissue at any time during the life of the patent4 ,upon becoming owners of the ,morey and ,johnson patent1 ,singer applied for a reissue which covered this type of yielding pressure4 ,it was granted on ,june #bg1 #ahed4 ,the ,singer company's acquisition of the ,bachelder patent had given them control of the yielding pressure bar also4 ,illustration3 ,figure #cc4--,,singer ,,family ,,machine1 #aheh1 head only4 7,smithsonian photo #deebd-;,f47 ,singer's aggressive selling had begun to overcome the public's suspicion of sewing machines4 ,he pioneered in the use of lavishly decorated sewing-machine showrooms when the company offices were expanded in the mid-#ahejs 7fig4 #cj74 ,these were rich with carved walnut furniture1 gilded ornaments1 and carpeted floors1 places in which ,victorian women were not ashamed to be seen4 ,the machines were demonstrated by pretty young women4 ,the total effect was a new concept of selling1 and ,singer became the drum major of a new and coming industry that had many followers 7see fig4 #ca74 ,illustration3 ,figure #cd4--;,,grover ,,and ,,baker',s ,,patent ,,model1 #ahea4 7,smithsonian photo #cbjjc-;,g47 ,the first1 light1 family sewing machine by the ,singer company was not manufactured until #aheh 7figs4 #cb and #cc74 ,comparatively few of these machines were made as they proved to be too small and light4 ,the men in the shop dubbed the machine ,the ,grasshopper1 but it was officially called the new ,family ,sewing ,machine or the ,family ,machine4#fa ,because of its shape1 ,singer company brochures of the #aibjs referred to it as the ,turtleback ,machine4 ,since the cost of sewing machines was quite high and the average family income was low1 ,clark suggested the adoption of the hire-purchase plan4 ,into the ,american economy thus came the now-familiar installment buying4 ,singer and ,clark continued to be partners until #ahfc when a corporation was formed4 ,at this time ,singer decided to withdraw from active work4 ,he received #dj percent of the stock and retired to ,paris and later to ,england1 where he died in #ahge4 ,illustration3 ,figure #ce4--,,this ,,grover ,,and ,,baker ,,cabinet-,,style ,,sewing ,,machine of #ahef bears the serial number #efge and the patent dates ,february #aa1 #ahea1 ,june #bb1 #aheb1 ,february #bb1 #ahec1 and ,may #bg1 #ahef4 7,smithsonian photo #deegb-;,f47 ,by the mid-#ahejs the basic elements of a successful1 practical sewing machine were at hand1 but the continuing court litigation over rival patent rights seemed destined to ruin the economics of the new industry4 ,it was then that the lawyer of the ,grover and ,baker company1 another sewing-machine manufacturer of the early #ahejs1 supplied the solution4 ,grover and ,baker were manufacturing a machine that was mechanically good1 for this early period4 ,william ,o4 ,grover was another ,boston tailor1 who1 unlike many others1 was convinced that the sewing machine was going to revolutionize his chosen trade4 ,although the sewing machines that he had seen were not very practical1 he began in #ahdi to experiment with an idea based on a new kind of stitch4 ,his design was for a machine that would take both its threads from spools and eliminate the need to wind one thread upon a bobbin4 ,after much experimenting1 he proved that it was possible to make a seam by interlocking two threads in a succession of slipknots1 but he found that building a machine to do this was a much more difficult task4 ,it is quite surprising that while he was working on this idea1 he did not stumble upon a good method to produce the single-thread 7as opposed to ,grover and ,baker's two-thread7 chainstitch1 later worked out by another4 ,grover was working so intently on the use of two threads that apparently no thought of forming a stitch with one thread had a chance to develop4 ,at this time ,grover became a partner with another ,boston tailor1 ,william ,e4 ,baker1 and on ,february #aa1 #ahea1 they were issued ,u4,s4 patent ,no4 #g1ica for a machine that did exactly what ,grover had set out to do2 it made a double chainstitch with two threads both carried on ordinary thread spools4 ,the machine 7figs4 #cd and #ce7 used a vertical eye-pointed needle for the top thread and a horizontal needle for the underthread4 ,the cloth was placed on the horizontal platform or table1 which had a hole for the entry of the vertical needle4 ,when this needle passed through the cloth1 it formed a loop on the underside4 ,the horizontal needle passed through this loop forming another loop beyond1 which was retained until the redescending vertical needle enchained it1 and the process repeated4 ,the slack in the needle thread was controlled by means of a spring guide4 ,the cloth was fed by feeding rolls and a band4 ,illustration3 ,figure #cf4--;,,grover',s ,,patent ,,model ,,for ,,the ,,first ,,portable ,,case1 #ahef4 ,the machine in the case is a commercial machine of #ahed1 bearing the serial number #cjab and the patent dates ,feby #aa1 #ahea1 ,june #bb1 #aheb1 ,feby #bb1 #ahec4 ,powered by a single1 foot-shaped treadle that was connected by a removable wooden pitman1 it also could be turned by hand4 7,smithsonian photo #deebe-;,d47 ,a company was organized under the name of ,grover and ,baker ,sewing ,machine ,company1 and soon the partners took ,jacob ,weatherill1 mechanic1 and ,orlando ,b4 ,potter1 lawyer 7who became the president71 into the firm4 ,potter contributed his ability as a lawyer in lieu of a financial investment and handled the several succeeding patents of ,grover and ,baker4 ,these patents were primarily for mechanical improvements such as ,u4,s4 patent ,no4 #i1jec issued to ,grover and ,baker on ,june #bb1 #aheb1 for devising a curved upper needle and an under looper#fb to form the double-looped stitch which became known as the ,grover and ,baker stitch4 ,one of the more interesting of the patents1 however1 was for the box or sewing case for which ,grover was issued ,u4,s4 patent ,no4 #ad1ief on ,may #bg1 #ahef4 ,the inventor stated that when open the box shall constitute the bed for the machine to be operated upon1 and hanging the machine thereto to facilitate oiling1 cleansing1 and repairs without removing it from the box4 ,it was the first portable sewing machine 7fig4 #cf74 ,though the ,grover and ,baker company manufactured machines using a shuttle and producing the more common lockstitch1 both under royalty in their own name and also for other smaller companies1 ,potter was convinced that the ,grover and ,baker stitch was the one that eventually would be used in both family and commercial machines4 ,he1 as president1 directed the efforts of the company to that end4 ,when the basic patents held by the ,sewing-,machine ,combination 7discussed on pp4 #da-db7 began to run out in the mid-#ahgjs1 dissolving its purpose and lowering the selling price of sewing machines1 the ,grover and ,baker company began a systematic curtailing of expenses and closing of branch offices4 ,all the patents held by the company and the business itself were sold to another company4#fc ,but the members of the ,grover and ,baker company fared well financially by the strategic move4 ,the ,grover and ,baker machine and its unique stitch did not have a great influence on the overall development of the mechanics of machine sewing4 ,the merits of a double-looped stitch--its elasticity and the taking of both threads from commercial spools--were outweighed by the bulkiness of the seam and its consumption of three times as much thread as the lockstitch required4 ,machines making a similar type of stitch have continued in limited use in the manufacture of knit goods and other products requiring an elastic seam4 ,but1 more importantly1 ,grover and ,baker's astute ,orlando ,b4 ,potter placed their names in the annals of sewing-machine history by his work in forming the ,combination1 believed to be the first trust of any prominence4 ,,footnotes3 #cc ,see biographical sketch1 pp4 #ach-ada4 #cd ,in the ,matter of the ,application of ,elias ,howe1 ,jr4 for an ,extension of ,his ,sewing ,machine ,patent ,dated ,september #aj1 #ahdf1 ,new ,york1 #ahfj1 with attachments ,a and ,b1 ,u4,s4 ,patent ,office4 ,l4,c4 call no4 ,,tj #aeab4;,h#fbfe #ce ,it is interesting to note that when ,william ,thomas applied for the ,british patent of the ,howe machine 7issued ,dec4 #a1 #ahdf71 the courts would not allow the claim for the combination of the eye-pointed needle and shuttle to form a stitch1 due to the ,fisher and ,gibbons patent of #ahdd4 ,for more details on ,howe's years in ,england see his biographical sketch1 pp4 #ach-ada4 #cf ,the machine referred to as the ,london ,sewing ,machine is the ,british patent of the ,thimonnier machine4 ,this patent was applied for by ,jean ,marie ,magnin and was published by ,newton's ,london ,journal1 vol4 #ci1 p4 #cag1 as ,magnin's invention4 #cg ,the exact date is not known2 however1 it was prior to #ahef as the patent was included in the sewing-machine patent pool formed that year4 #ch ,,james ,,parton1 ,history of the ,sewing ,machine1 p4 #ab1 7originally published in the ,atlantic ,monthly1 ,may #ahfg71 later reprinted by the ,howe ,machine ,company as a separate4 #ci ,sewing ,machine ,times 7,feb4 #be1 #aijg71 vol4 #ag1 no4 #chb1 p4 #a1 ,his ,bonata's shop was on ,gold ,street1 ,new ,york1 near the ,bartholf shop1 where ,howe was building some of his early machines4 #dj ,sewing ,machine ,news1 vol4 #c1 no4 #e1 p4 #e1 ,sept4 #ahha-;,jan4 #ahhb4 ,history of the ,sewing ,machine4 #da ,op4 cit4 7footnote #cd74 #db ,new ,york ,daily ,tribune1 ,jan4 #ae1 #aheb1 p4 #b4 #dc ,see ,howe's biographical sketch1 p4 #ada4 #dd ,op4 cit4 7footnote #cd74 ,attachments ,a and ,b are copies of ,judge ,sprague's decisions4 #de ,sewing ,machine ,journal 7,july #ahhg71 pp4 #ic-id4 #df ,report of the ,sixth ,exhibition of the ,massachusetts ,charitable ,mechanics ,association1 in the ,city of ,boston1 ,september #ahej 7,boston1 #ahej74 #dg ,see biographical sketch1 pp4 #ada-adb4 #dh,scientific ,american 7,dec4 #f1 #ahea71 vol4 #g1 no4 #ab1 p4 #ie4 #di ,ibid4 7,sept4 #bj1 #ahea71 vol4 #g1 no4 #a1 p4 #g4 #ej ,ibid4 7,june #d1 #ahec71 vol4 #g1 no4 #ch1 p4 #bih #ea ,j4 ,d4 ,,van ,,slyck1 ,new ,england ,manufactures and ,manufactories1 vol4 #b1 pp4 #fgb-fhb4 #eb ,see his biographical sketch1 pp4 #adb-adc4 #ec ,,chester ,,mcneil1 ,a ,history of the ,sewing ,machine in ,union ,sales ,bulletin1 vol4 #c1 ,union ,special ,sewing ,machine ,co41 ,chicago1 ,illinois1 pp4 #hc-he4 #aijc4 #ed ,sewing ,machine ,times 7,aug4 #be1 #aijh71 vol4 #ah1 no4 #dah4 #ee ,singer gives this limited description of the first machine1 with detailed improvements for which he was then applying for a patent3 ,in my previous machine1 to which reference has been made1 the bobbin was carried by the needle-carrier1 and hence the motion of the needle had to be equal to the length of thread required to form the loop1 which was objectionable1 as in many instances this range of motion was unnecessarily long for all other purposes4444 ,quoted from ,u4,s4 patent #h1bid issued to ,isaac ,m4 ,singer1 ,aug4 #ab1 #ahea4 ,it should be noted that in some instances there was a considerable lapse of time from the date a patent application was made until the patent was issued4 ,in this case the handwritten specifications were dated ,march #ad1 #ahea1 and the formal ,patent ,office receipt was dated ,april #af1 #ahea4 #ef ,if a patent was not approved1 for any reason1 the records were placed in an ,abandoned ,file4 ,in #aicj ,congress authorized the disposal of the old ,abandoned ,files1 requiring them to be kept for twenty years only4 ,there are no ,singer ,company records giving an account of the first patent application4 #eg ,its whereabouts was unknown as early as #aijh1 as stated in the ,sewing ,machine ,times 7,aug4 #be1 #aijh71 vol4 #ah1 no4 #dah4 ,models of abandoned patents frequently remained at the ,patent ,office4 ,approximately #gf1jjj models were ruined in a ,patent ,office fire in #ahgg4 ,in #aijh over #cjjj models of abandoned patents were sold at auction4 ,either incident could account for the machine's disappearance4 #eh ,the patent model of #h1bid is a machine that bears the serial number #bb2 it was manufactured before ,april #ah1 #ahea1 the date it was recorded as received by the ,patent ,office4 #ei ,william ,r4 ,bagnall1 in ,contributions to ,american ,economic ,history1 vol4 #a 7#aijh71 ,,ms1 ,harvard ,school of ,business ,library4 #fj ,singer purchased ,phelps' interest in the company in #ahea and sold it to ,edward ,clark4 #fa ,this first1 family sewing machine should not be confused in name with a model brought out in the sixties4 ,the name of this first1 family machine was in the sense of a new family sewing machine4 ,in #ahei a ,letter ,a family machine was introduced4 ,thus in #ahfe when the ,singer ,company brought out another family machine they called it the ,new ,family ,sewing ,machine4 ,both the first-style ,family machine and the ,letter ,a machine are illustrated in ,eighty ,years of ,progress of the ,united ,states 7,new ,york1 #ahfa71 vol4 #b1 p4 #dag1 and discussed in an article1 ,the ,place and ,its ,tenants1 in the ,sewing ,machine ,times 7,dec4 #be1 #aijh71 vol4 #bg1 no4 #hic4 #fb ,a looper on the underside in place of the horizontal needle4 #fc ,domestic ,sewing ,machine ,company4 ,see ,union ,special ,sewing ,machine ,co4 ,sales ,bulletin1 vol4 #c1 ch4 #ae1 pp4 #eh-ei4 ,chapter ,three ,illustration3 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------------------ ,a ,,partial ,,statement ,,from ,,records ,,of ,,the ,,sewing-,,machine ,,combination1 ,,showing ,,number ,,of ,,sewing-,,machines ,,licensed ,,annually ,,under ,,the ,,elias ,,howe ,,patent4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------- ,,name ,wheeler ,i4 ,m4 ,the ,grover ,a4 ,b4 ,leavitt,ladd ,bartholf ,,of ,singer ,singer ,baker ,howe ,s4 ,m4 ,webster,s4 ,m4 ,,manu-,wilson ,co4 ,manufac- ,s4 ,m4 ,co4,s4 ,m4 ,co4 ,s4 ,m4 ,co4 ,,fact-,mfg4 ,co4 turing ,co4 ,co4 ,,urer4 ,co4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------- #ahec #gii #haj 4444 #feg 4444 #bh #ajj #ace #ahed #gef #hgi 4444 #b1jcd #fj #bag #bfh #ee #ahee #a1aga #hhc 4444 #a1add #ec #aeb #gc #ca #ahef #b1baj #b1efd 4444 #a1ieb #dg #bce #ahj #ce #aheg #d1eia #c1fcj 4444 #c1fhj #acc #aie #dec #ca #aheh #g1igh #c1eid 4444 #e1jgj #agi #ge #dij #bjc #ahei #ba1cjf #aj1iec 4444 #aj1bhj #iba #bac #a1ghh #gdg #ahfj #be1ajb #ac1jjj7;a74444 7b7 7b7 7b7 7b7 #ahfa #ah1eef #af1jjj7;a74444 7b7 7b7 7b7 7b7 7b7 #ahfb #bh1bjb #ah1cif 4444 7b7 7b7 7b7 7b7 7b7 #ahfc #bi1ggh 4444 #bj1jcj 7b7 7b7 7b7 7b7 7b7 #ahfd #dj1jfb 4444 #bc1fcb 7b7 7b7 7b7 7b7 7b7 #ahfe #ci1aeg 4444 #bf1cdj 7b7 7b7 7b7 7b7 7b7 #ahff #ej1acb 4444 #cj1ifj 7b7 7b7 7b7 7b7 7b7 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------- ---------------------------------------- --------------------------------------- ,a ,,partial ,,statement ,,showing ,,number ,,of ,,sewing-,,machines ,,licensed ,,annually ,,from #ahfg ,,to #ahgf ,,inclusive4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------- ,,name ,,of ,,manufacturer4 #ahfg4 #ahfh4 #ahfi4 #ahgj4 #ahga4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------- ,the ,singer ,manufacturing ,co4#dc1jec #ei1fbi #hf1gha #abg1hcc #aha1bfj ,wheeler ,wilson ,mfg4 ,co4 #ch1jee 7b7 #gh1hff #hc1bjh #abh1ebf ,grover ,baker ,s4 ,m4 ,co4 #cb1iii #ce1jjj7;a7#ce1ahh #eg1djb #ej1hch ,weed ,sewing-,machine ,co4 #c1fch #ab1jjj #ai1fhg #ce1jjb #ci1fee ,howe ,sewing-,machine ,co4 #aa1jec #ce1jjj7;a7#de1jjj7;a7#ge1aef #acd1jaj ,a4 ,b4 ,howe 4444 4444 4444 4444 #bj1jea ,b4 ,p4 ,howe 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 ,willcox ,gibbs ,s4 ,m4 ,co4 #ad1aeb #ae1jjj #ag1bja #bh1hij #cj1abg ,wilson 7,w4 ,g47 4444 4444 4444 4444 #ba1aec ,american ,b4 ,h4 ,s4 ,m4 ,co4 4444 4444 #g1gib #ad1egc #bj1aba ,florence ,s4 ,m4 ,co4 #aj1ecd #ab1jjj #ac1ffa #ag1ffj #ae1idg ,shaw ,clark ,s4 ,m4 ,co4 #b1fib #c1jjj 4444 4444 4444 ,gold ,medal 4444 4444 4444 #h1iab #ac1efb ,davis 4444 4444 4444 4444 #aa1efh ,domestic 4444 4444 4444 4444 #aj1cig ,finkle ,lyon ,mfg4 ,co4 and #b1dhh #b1jjj #a1cci #b1dbj #g1fci ,victor4 tna ,sewing-,machine ,co4 #b1ieh #c1ejj #d1edh #e1hjf #d1gbj ,blees 4444 4444 4444 4444 #d1eeg ,elliptic #c1ahe 4444 4444 4444 #d1eee ,empire #b1aba #e1jjj #h1gjj 4444 4444 ,remington ,sewing-,machine ,co44444 4444 4444 #c1efj #b1ife ,parham 4444 4444 #a1ada #a1gff #b1jef ,bartram ,fanton ,mfg4 ,co4 #b1ieh 4444 4444 4444 #a1jjd ,bartlett ,sewing-,machine ,co4 4444 4444 4444 4444 #fad ,j4 ,g4 ,folsom 4444 4444 4444 4444 #bhj ,mc,kay ,sewing-,machine ,asso4 4444 4444 4444 #abi #bah ,c4 ,f4 ,thompson 4444 4444 4444 4444 #adg ,union ,buttonhole ,machine ,co44444 4444 4444 4444 #abd ,leavitt ,sewing-,machine ,co4 #a1jea #a1jjj #gga 4444 4444 ,goodspeed ,wyman ,s4 ,m4 ,co4 #b1abf 4444 4444 4444 4444 ,keystone ,sewing-,machine ,co4 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 ,secor 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 ,centennial 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------- ,,name ,,of ,,manufacturer4 #ahgb4 #ahgc4 #ahgd4 #ahge4 #ahgf4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------- ,the ,singer ,manufacturing ,co4#bai1geh #bcb1ddd #bda1fgi #bdi1heb #bfb1caf ,wheeler ,wilson ,mfg4 ,co4 #agd1jhh #aai1aij #ib1hbg #ajc1gdj #ajh1iig ,grover ,baker ,s4 ,m4 ,co4 #eb1jaj #cf1agi #bj1jjj7;a7#ae1jjj7;a74444 ,weed ,sewing-,machine ,co4 #db1ddd #ba1gfi #bj1die #ba1iic #ad1dbe ,howe ,sewing-,machine ,co4 #ade1jjj7;a7#ij1jjj7;a7#ce1jjj7;a7#be1jj j7;a7#aji1bid ,a4 ,b4 ,howe 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 ,b4 ,p4 ,howe #ad1ijg #ac1iai 4444 4444 4444 ,willcox ,gibbs ,s4 ,m4 ,co4 #cc1fci #ae1hha #ac1gaj #ad1ebb #ab1geh ,wilson 7,w4 ,g47 #bb1fff #ba1bdg #ag1ebe #i1ejh 4444 ,american ,b4 ,h4 ,s4 ,m4 ,co4 #ah1icj #ad1ahb #ac1ebi #ad1djf #ag1icg ,florence ,s4 ,m4 ,co4 #ae1gic #h1ifj #e1eag #d1hib #b1igh ,shaw ,clark ,s4 ,m4 ,co4 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 ,gold ,medal #ah1hig #af1dca #ae1bad #ad1bfb #g1ahe ,davis #aa1cgf #h1hfa 4444 4444 4444 ,domestic #di1eed #dj1aad #bb1gjj #ba1deb #bc1ehg ,finkle ,lyon ,mfg4 ,co4 and #aa1ija #g1ddf #f1bib #f1ajc #e1gej ,victor4 tna ,sewing-,machine ,co4 #d1bfb #c1jha #a1hff #a1ddg #gjg ,blees #f1jec #c1deh 4444 4444 4444 ,elliptic 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 ,empire 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 ,remington ,sewing-,machine ,co4#d1ihb #i1ahc #ag1fjh #be1aaj #ab1gaf ,parham 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 ,bartram ,fanton ,mfg4 ,co4 #a1jjj #a1jjj #bej 4444 4444 ,bartlett ,sewing-,machine ,co4 #a1jjj 4444 4444 4444 4444 ,j4 ,g4 ,folsom 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 ,mc,kay ,sewing-,machine ,asso4 4444 4444 #abh #afa #ajb ,c4 ,f4 ,thompson 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 ,union ,buttonhole ,machine ,co44444 4444 4444 4444 4444 ,leavitt ,sewing-,machine ,co4 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 ,goodspeed ,wyman ,s4 ,m4 ,co4 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 ,keystone ,sewing-,machine ,co4 #b1ffe #bag #cg 4444 4444 ,secor #caa #c1dcj #d1eda #a1cjg 4444 ,centennial 4444 #ead 4444 4444 4444 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------- 7a7 ,number estimated4 7b7 ,no data4 ,figure #cg4--,,table ,,of ,,sewing-,,machine ,,statistics4 ,from ,frederick ,g4 ,bourne1 ,american ,sewing ,machines in ,one ,hundred ,years of ,american ,commerce1 vol4 #b4 ed4 ,chauncey ,mitchell ,depew 7,new ,york3 ,d4 ,o4 ,haines1 #ahie71 p4 #ecj4 7,smithsonian photo #dbedb-;,a47 ,the ,sewing-,machine ,combination ,with the basic elements of a successful sewing machine assembled1 the various manufacturers should have been able to produce good machines unencumbered4 ,the court order1 however1 which restrained several firms from selling ,singer machines while the ,howe suit was pending1 started a landslide2 soon ,wheeler1 ,wilson and company1 ,grover and ,baker company1 and several others#fd purchased rights from ,elias ,howe4 ,this gave ,howe almost absolute control of the sewing-machine business as these companies agreed to his royalty terms of #be for every machine sold4 ,in an attempt to improve his own machine1 ,howe was almost immediately caught up in another series of legal battles in which he was the defendant2 the companies he had defeated were able to accuse him of infringing on patents that they owned4 ,to compound the confusion1 individual companies also were suing each other on various grounds4 ,because of this situation ,orlando ,b4 ,potter1 president of the ,grover and ,baker company1 advanced in #ahef the idea of a ,combination of sewing-machine manufacturers4 ,he pointed out how the various companies were harming themselves by continuing litigation and tried to convince ,howe that all would benefit by an agreement of some kind4 ,he proposed that ,elias ,howe2 ,wheeler1 ,wilson and company2 ,i4 ,m4 ,singer and company2 and ,grover and ,baker company pool their patents covering the essential features of the machine4 ,the three companies had started production about the same time and approved of ,potter's idea2 ,howe opposed it as he felt that he had the most to lose by joining the ,combination4 ,he finally consented to take part in ,potter's plan if the others would agree to certain stipulations4 ,the first requirement was that at least twenty-four manufacturers were to be licensed4 ,the second was that1 in addition to sharing equally in the profits with the three companies1 ,howe would receive a royalty of #e for each machine sold in the ,united ,states and #a for each machine exported4 ,it has been estimated that1 as a result of this agreement1 ,howe received at least #b1jjj1jjj as his share of the license fees between #ahef and #ahfg when his patent expired4#fe ,the organization was called the ,sewing-,machine ,trust and_/or the ,sewing-,machine ,combination4 ,the important patents contributed to it were3 #a4 ,the grooved1 eye-pointed needle used with a shuttle to form the lockstitch 7,e4 ,howe patent1 held by ,e4 ,howe72 #b4 ,the four-motion feeding mechanism 7,a4 ,b4 ,wilson patent1 held by ,wheeler and ,wilson company72 #c4 ,the needle moving vertically above a horizontal work-plate 7,bachelder patent71 a continuous feeding device by belt or wheel 7,bachelder patent71 a yielding presser resting on the cloth 7,bachelder patent71 the spring or curved arm to hold the cloth by a yielding pressure 7,morey and ,johnson patent71 the heart-shaped cam as applied to moving the needle bar 7,singer patent72 all these patents1 held by the ,singer ,company4#ff ,the ,grover and ,baker company contributed several patents of relative importance1 but its most important claim for admission was the fact that ,potter had promoted the idea4 ,the consent of all four member-parties was required before any license could be granted1 and all were required to have a license--even the member companies4 ,the fee was #ae per machine4 ,a portion of this money was set aside to pay the cost of prosecuting infringers1 ,howe received his initial fee1 and the rest was divided between the four parties4 ,the advantage to the licensee was that he was required to pay only one fee4 ,most license applications were granted2 only those manufacturing a machine specifically imitating the product of a licensed manufacturer were refused4 ,the ,combination's three company members each continued to manufacture1 improve1 and perfect its own machine4 ,other than the joint control of the patents1 there was no pooling of interests1 and each company competed to attract purchasers to buy its particular type of machine1 as did the companies who were licensed by them4 ,in #ahfj1 the year ,howe's patent was renewed1 the general license fee was reduced from #ae to #g1 and ,howe's special royalty was reduced to #a per machine4 ,howe remained a member until his patent ran out in #ahfg4 ,the other members continued the ,combination until #ahgg1 when the ,bachelder patent1 which had been extended twice1 finally expired4 ,by that time the fundamental features of the sewing machine were no longer controlled by anyone4 ,open competition by the smaller manufacturers was possible1 and a slight reduction in price followed4 ,many new companies came into being--some destined to be very short-lived4 ,from the beginning to the end of the ,combination there was an army of independents1 including infringers and imitators1 who kept up a constant complaint against it1 maintaining that its existence tended to retard the improvement of the sewing machine and that the public suffered thereby4 ,in the period immediately following the termination of the ,combination1 however1 only a few improvements of any importance were made1 and most of these were by the member companies4 ,,footnotes3 #fd ,these included the ,american ,magnetic ,sewing ,machine ,co42 ,a4 ,bartholf2 ,nichols and ,bliss2 ,j4 ,a4 ,lerow2 ,woolridge1 ,keene1 and ,moore2 and ,a4 ,b4 ,howe4 ,new ,york ,daily ,tribune1 ,sept4 #c1 #ahec4 #fe ,who ,invented the ,sewing-,machine1 unsigned article in ,the ,galaxy1 vol4 #d1 ,august #ca1 #ahfg1 pp4 #dga-dha4 #ff ,singer has sometimes been credited as the inventor of the various improvements covered by the patents that the ,singer company purchased and later contributed to the efforts of the ,combination4 ,chapter ,four ,illustration3 ,figure #ch4--;,,gibbs' ,,patent ,,model1 #aheg4 7,smithsonian photo #deejd-;,e47 ,less ,expensive ,machines ,while the ,combination was attempting to solve the problems of patent litigation1 another problem faced the would-be home users of this new invention4 ,the budget limitations of the average family caused a demand for a less expensive machine1 for this first consumer appliance was a most desirable commodity4#fg ,there were many attempts to satisfy this demand1 but one of the best and most successful grew out of a young man's curiosity4 ,james ,e4 ,a4 ,gibbs' first exposure to the sewing machine was in #ahee when1 at the age of #bd1 he saw a simple woodcut illustration of a ,grover and ,baker machine4 ,the woodcut represented only the upper part of the machine4 ,nothing in the illustration indicated that more than one thread was used1 and none of the stitch-forming mechanism was visible4 ,gibbs assumed that the stitch was formed with one thread2 he then proceeded to imagine a mechanism that would make a stitch with one thread4 ,his solution was described in his own statement3 ,as ,i was then living in a very out of the way place1 far from railroads and public conveyances of all kinds1 modern improvements seldom reached our locality1 and not being likely to have my curiosity satisfied otherwise1 ,i set to work to see what ,i could learn from the woodcut1 which was not accompanied by any description4 ,i first discovered that the needle was attached to a needle arm1 and consequently could not pass entirely through the material1 but must retreat through the same hole by which it entered4 ,from this ,i saw that ,i could not make a stitch similar to handwork1 but must have some other mode of fastening the thread on the underside1 and among other possible methods of doing this1 the chainstitch occurred to me as a likely means of accomplishing the end4 ,i next endeavored to discover how this stitch was or could be made1 and from the woodcut ,i saw that the driving shaft which had the driving wheel on the outer end1 passed along under the cloth plate of the machine4 ,i knew that the mechanism which made the stitch must be connected with and actuated by this driving shaft4 ,after studying the position and relations of the needle and shaft with each other1 ,i conceived the idea of the revolving hook on the end of the shaft1 which might take hold of the thread and manipulate it into a chainstitch4 ,my ideas were1 of course1 very crude and indefinite1 but it will be seen that ,i then had the correct conception of the invention afterwards embodied in my machine4#fh ,illustration3 ,figure #ci4--,,one ,,of ,,the ,,first ,,commercial ,,machines produced by the ,willcox ,gibbs ,sewing ,machine ,co4 in #aheg1 this machine bears no serial number1 although the name ,james ,e4 ,a4 ,gibbs is inscribed in two places on the cloth plate4 ,it was used as the patent model for ,gibbs' improvement on his #aheg patent issued the following year on ,august #aj1 #aheh4 7,smithsonian photo ,p4 #fcic47 ,gibbs had no immediate interest in the sewing machine other than to satisfy his curiosity4 ,he did not think of it again until ,january #ahef when he was visiting his father in ,rockbridge ,county1 ,virginia4 ,while in a tailor's shop there1 he happened to see a ,singer machine4 ,gibbs was very much impressed1 but thought the machine entirely too heavy1 complicated1 and cumbersome1 and the price exorbitant4 ,it was then that he recalled the machine he had devised4 ,remembering how simple it was1 he decided to work in earnest to produce a less-expensive type of sewing machine4 ,gibbs had little time to spend on this invention since his family was dependent upon him for support1 but he managed to find time at night and during inclement weather4 ,in contemporary references1 ,gibbs is referred to as a farmer1 but since he is also reported to have had employers1 it may be surmised that he was a farmhand4 ,in any event1 his decision to try to produce a less-expensive sewing machine suffered from a lack of proper tools and adequate materials4 ,most of the machine had to be constructed of wood1 and he was forced to make his own needles4 ,by the end of ,april #ahef1 however1 his model was sufficiently completed to arouse the interest of his employers1 who agreed to furnish the money necessary to patent the machine4 ,gibbs went to ,washington1 where he examined sewing-machine models in the ,patent ,office and other machines then on the market4 ,completing his investigations1 ,gibbs made a trip to ,philadelphia and showed his invention to a builder of models of new inventions1 ,james ,willcox4 ,much impressed with the machine1 ,willcox arranged for ,gibbs to work with his son1 ,charles ,willcox1 in a small room in the rear of his shop4 ,after taking out two minor patents 7on ,december #af1 #ahef1 and ,january #bj1 #aheg71 ,gibbs obtained his important one1 ,u4,s4 patent ,no4 #ag1dbg on ,june #b1 #aheg 7fig4 #ch74 ,his association with ,charles ,willcox led to the formation of the ,willcox ,gibbs ,sewing ,machine ,company1 and they began manufacturing chainstitch machines in #aheg 7fig4 #ci74 ,the machine used a straight needle to make a chainstitch4 ,at the forward end of the main shaft was a hook which1 as it rotated1 carried the loop of needle-thread1 elongated and held it expanded while the feed moved the cloth until the needle at the next stroke descended through the loop so held4 ,when the needle descended through the first loop1 the point of the hook was again in position to catch the second loop1 at which time the first loop was cast off and the second loop drawn through it1 the first loop having been drawn up against the lower edge of the cloth to form a chain4 ,illustration3 ,figure #dj4--;,a ,,dolphin sewing machine based on ,clark's patent of #aheh4 ,this design was first used by ,t4 ,j4 ,w4 ,robertson in #ahee1 but in his patent issued on ,may #bb of that year no claim was made for the machine design1 only for the chainstitch mechanism4 ,the same style was used by ,d4 ,w4 ,clark in several of his chainstitch patents1 but he also made no claim for the design1 stating that the machine may be made in any desired ornamental form4 ,the dolphin-style machines are all chainstitch models of solid brass1 originally gilt4 ,although only about five inches long1 they are full-size machines using a full-size needle4 7,smithsonian photo #deeje47 ,a ,gibbs sewing machine1 on a simple iron-frame stand with treadle1 sold for approximately #ej in the late #ahejs1#fi while a ,wheeler and ,wilson#gj machine or a ,grover and ,baker#ga with the same type of stand sold for approximately #ajj4 ,after the introduction of the ,gibbs machine1 the ,singer company#gb brought out a light family machine in #aheh that was also first sold for #ajj4 ,it was then reduced to #ej1 but it was not popular because it was too light 7see discussion of ,singer machines1 pp4 #cd-ce74 ,in #ahei1 ,singer brought out its second1 more successful family machine1 which sold for #ge4 ,like the other companies licensed by the ,combination1 ,willcox and ,gibbs company paid a royalty for the use of the patents it held4 ,although the ,willcox and ,gibbs machine was a single-thread chainstitch machine and the company held the ,gibbs patents1 the company was required to be licensed to use the basic feed1 vertical needle1 and other related patents held by the ,sewing-,machine ,combination4 ,with the approach of the ,civil ,war1 ,gibbs returned to ,virginia4 ,poor health prevented him from taking an active part in the war1 but he worked throughout the conflict in a factory processing saltpeter for gunpowder4 ,afterward1 ,gibbs returned to ,philadelphia and found that ,willcox had faithfully protected his sewing-machine interests during his long absence4 ,the firm prospered1 and ,gibbs finally retired to ,virginia a wealthy man4 ,interestingly1 ,gibbs named the ,virginia village to which he returned in later life ,raphine--derived1 somewhat incorrectly1 from the ,greek word to sew4 ,the ,willcox ,gibbs ,sewing ,machine ,company is one of the few old companies still in existence4 ,it discontinued making and selling family-style machines many years ago and directed its energies toward specialized commercial sewing machines1 many of which are based on the original chainstitch principle4 ,there was also an ever-increasing number of other patentees and manufacturers who1 in the late #ahejs and #ahfjs1 attempted to produce a sewing machine that would circumvent both the ,combination and the high cost of manufacturing a more complicated type of machine4 ,some of the more interesting of these are pictured and described in figures #dj through #ed4 ,illustration3 ,figure #da4--,,the ,,cherub sewing machine was another ,robertson first which was adopted by ,clark4 ,robertson's patent of ,october #bj1 #aheg1 once again makes no claim for the design2 neither does ,clark's patent of ,january #e1 #aheh1 illustrated here4 ,the machine is approximately the same size as the dolphin and is made in the same manner and of the same materials4 ,two cherubs form the main support1 one also supporting the spool and leashing a dragonfly which backs the needle mechanism4 7,smithsonian photo #deejd-;,d47 ,illustration3 ,figure #db4--,,the ,,foliage ,,sewing ,,machine originated with ,d4 ,w4 ,clark4 ,once again he did not include the design in his ,june #h1 #aheh1 patent1 which was aimed at improving the feeding mechanism4 ,like most hand-turned models1 these required a clamp to fasten them to the table when in operation4 7,smithsonian photo #deejd-;,c47 ,illustration3 ,figure #dc4--,,the ,,sewing ,,shears was another popular machine of unusual style4 ,some models were designed to both cut and sew1 but most derived their names from the method of motivating power4 ,the earliest example of the sewing-shears machine was invented by ,joseph ,hendrick1 who stated in his patent that he was attempting to produce a simple1 portable1 cheap1 and efficient machine4 ,his patent model of ,october #e1 #aheh1 is illustrated4 7,smithsonian photo #deejd-;,f47 ,illustration3 ,figure #dd4--,,the ,,horse ,,sewing ,,machine is among the most unusual of the patents issued for mechanical improvements4 ,although ,james ,perry1 the patentee1 made several claims for the looper1 feeder1 and tension1 he made no mention of the unusual design of the machine1 for which a patent was issued on ,november #bc1 #aheh4 ,although it was probably one of a kind1 the horse machine illustrates the extent to which the inventor's mind struggled for original design4 7,smithsonian photo #deeje-;,c47 ,illustration3 ,figure #de4--,,many ,,inventors attempted to cut the cost of manufacturing a complicated machine4 ,one of these was ,albert ,h4 ,hook1 whose machine is only about four inches high and two inches wide4 ,his patent1 granted ,november #cj1 #aheh1 simplified the construction and arrangement of the various parts4 ,although ,hook used a barbed needle reminiscent of the one used by ,thimonnier1 his method of forming the stitch was entirely different4 ,the thread was passed through the necessary guides1 and when the cloth was in place the needle was thrust up from below4 ,passing through the fabric1 the needle descended1 carrying with it a loop of thread4 ,as the process was repeated1 a chainstitch was formed with the enchained loop on the under side4 ,in spite of its simple mechanism1 ,hook's machine was not a commercial success4 7,smithsonian photo #deeje-;,d47 ,illustration3 ,figure #df4--;,,in ,,addition ,,to ,,mechanical ,,patents1 a number of design patents were also issued for sewing machines4 ,these fall into a separate series in the ,patent ,office's numerical records4 ,this unusual example featured two semidraped female figures holding the spool of thread1 a mermaid holding the needle1 a serpent which served as the presser foot1 and a heart-shaped baster plate4 ,the design was patented by ,w4 ,n4 ,brown1 ,october #be1 #ahei1 but no examples other than the patent model are known to have been made4 7,smithsonian photo #deejd-;,a47 ,illustration3 ,figure #dg4--,,the ,,squirrel ,,machine was another interesting design patent4 ,s4 ,b4 ,ellithorp had received a mechanical patent for a two-thread1 stationary-bobbin machine on ,august #bf1 #aheg4 ,that same month he published a picture of his machine1 shown here as republished in the ,sewing ,machine ,news1 vol4 #g1 no4 #aa1 ,november #ahhe4 ,the machine was designed in the shape of the ordinary gray squirrel so common throughout this country--an animal that is selected as a type of provident care and forethought1 for its habits of frugality and for making provision for seasons of scarcity and want in times of plenty--and the different parts of the animal are each put to a useful purpose2 the moving power being placed within its body1 the needle stock through its head1 one of its fore feet serving to guide the thread1 and the other to hold down the cloth while being sewed1 and the tip of its tail forming a support to the spool from which the thread is supplied4 ,although the design patent was not secured until ,june #g1 #ahei1 the inventor was reported to have been perfecting his machine for manufacture in #aheg4 ,ellithorp planned to place them in market at a price that will permit families and individuals that have heretofore been deterred from purchasing a machine by the excessive and exorbitant price charged for those now in use1 to possess one4 ,patent rights were sold under the name of ,ellithorp ,fox1 but the machine was never manufactured on a large scale1 if at all4 ,no squirrel machines are known to have survived4 7,smithsonian photo #ecaab47 ,illustration3 ,figure #dh4--;,,heyer',s ,,pocket ,,sewing ,,machine patent model1 ,november #ag1 #ahfc4 ,this patent model is one piece1 and measures about two inches in height and two inches in length4 ,it will stitch--but only coarse1 loosely woven fabrics4 ,as can be expected1 a great deal of manual dexterity is required to compensate for the omission of mechanical parts4 ,heyer advertised patent rights for sale1 but evidence of manufactured machines of this type has yet to be discovered4 7,smithsonian photo #ahaae-;,da47 ,illustration3 ,figure #di4--;,,heyer',s ,,machine as illustrated in ,scientific ,american1 ,july #cj1 #ahfd4 ,the smallest and most original of all the attempts to simplify machine sewing1 ,heyer's machine1 which made a chainstitch1 was constructed of a single strip of metal4 ,the ,scientific ,american stated3 ,it is simply a steel spring ingeniously bent and arranged and it is said to sew small articles very well4 ,the whole affair can easily be carried in the coat pocket4 ,one method of operation1 vibrating with the finger1 was illustrated4 ,the machine could be operated also by holding it in the hand and pressuring it between two fingers4 ,cloth was inserted at c1 and the prongs of the spring feed f carried it along after each stitch4 ,it was stated that the needle could be cut from the same strip of metal1 but it was advised also that the needle could be made as a separate piece and attached4 7,smithsonian photo #dhbba47 ,illustration3 ,figure #ej4--;,,although ,,bean',s ,,and ,,rodgers' running-stitch machines1 the second and fourth ,u4,s4 sewing-machine patents1 experienced little commercial success1 small manufactured machines based on ,aaron ,palmer's patent of ,may #ac1 #ahfb1 were popular in the #ahfjs4 ,the patent model above is a small brass implement with crimping gears that forced the fabric onto an ordinary sewing needle4 ,the full needle was then removed from its position1 and the thread was pulled through the fabric by hand4 7,smithsonian photo #deebd47 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,fairy ,,sewing-,,machine4 ,a ,,holiday ,,gift ,,for ,,the ,,work-,,table ,figure #ea4--,,one ,,of ,,the ,,early ,,commercial ,,manufacturers of the ,palmer patent was ,madame ,demorest1 a ,new ,york dressmaker4 ,she advertised her ,fairy sewing machine in ,godey's ,lady's ,book1 vol4 #ff1 #ahfc1 and stated3 ,in the first place it will attract attention from its diminutive1 fairy-like size1 and with the same ease with which it can be carried1 an important matter to a seamstress or dressmaker employed from house to house 444 ,what no other sewing machine attempts to do1 it runs1 and does not stitch1 it sews the more delicate materials an ordinary sewing machine cuts or draws4444 7,smithsonian photo #dcfij47 ,illustration3 ,figure #eb4--,,the ,,fairy ,,sewing ,,machine sold for five dollars and was adequate for its advertised purpose1 sewing or running very lightweight fabrics4 ,the machine was marked with the ,palmer patent1 the date ,may #ac1 #ahfb1 and the name ,mme4 ,demorest4 ,a machine identical to the ,fairy1 but bearing both ,palmer patent dates1 ,may #ac1 #ahfb1 and ,june #ai1 #ahfc1 and the name ,gold ,medal1 was manufactured by a less-scrupulous company4 ,this machine was advertised as follows3 ,a first class sewing machine1 handsomely ornamented1 with all working parts silver plated4 ,put up in a highly polished mahogany case1 packed ready for shipment4 ,price #aj4jj4 ,this machine uses a common sewing needle1 is very simple4 ,a child can operate it4 ,cash with order4 ,some buyers felt they were swindled1 as they had expected a heavy-duty machine1 but no recourse could be taken against the advertiser4 ,another similar machine was also manufactured under the name ,little ,gem4 7,smithsonian photo #deebe47 ,illustration3 ,figures #ec and #ed4--,,running-,,stitch ,,machines were also attempted by several other inventors4 ,shaw ,clark1 manufacturers of chainstitch machines1 patented this running-stitch machine on ,april #ba1 #ahfc4 ,from the appearance of the patent model1 it was already in commercial production4 ,on ,may #bf1 #ahfc1 ,john ,d4 ,dale also received a patent for an improvement related to the method of holding the needle and regulating the stitches in a running-stitch machine4 ,dale's patent model was a commercial machine4 ,john ,heberling patented several improvements in #ahgh and #ahhj4 ,his machine1 which was a little larger and in appearance resembled a more conventional type of sewing machine1 was a commercial success4 7,shaw ,clark3 ,smithsonian photo ,p4 #fcie2 ,dale3 ,smithsonian photo ,p4 #fcid47 ,,footnotes3 #fg ,scientific ,american 7,jan4 #bi1 #ahei71 vol4 #ad1 no4 #ba1 p4 #afe4 ,in a description of the new ,willcox and ,gibbs sewing machine the following observation is made3 ,it is astonishing how1 in a few years1 the sewing machine has made such strides in popular favor1 and become1 from being a mechanical wonder1 a household necessity and extensive object of manufacture4 ,while the higher priced varieties have such a large sale1 it is no wonder that the cheaper ones sell in such tremendous quantities1 and that our inventors are always trying to produce something new and cheap4 #fh ,op4 cit4 7footnote #ec71 pp4 #abi-aca4 #fi ,scientific ,american1 vol4 #ae1 no4 #ba 7,january #bi1 #ahei71 p4 #afe1 and ,willcox and ,gibbs advertising brochure1 #ahfd4 #gj ,scientific ,american1 vol4 #ab1 no4 #h 7,november #a1 #ahef71 p4 #fb4 #ga ,ibid41 vol4 #a1 no4 #ai 7,november #e1 #ahei71 p4 #cjc4 #gb ,i4 ,m4 ,singer ,co4's ,gazette1 vol4 #e1 no4 #d 7,march #a1 #ahei71 p4 #d1 and a brochure1 ,singer's ,new ,family ,sewing ,machine 7in ,singer ,manufacturing ,company1 ,historic ,archives74 ,appendixes ,i4 ,notes on the ,development and ,commercial ,use of the ,sewing ,machine ,,introduction ,while researching the history of the invention and the development of the sewing machine1 many items of related interest concerning the machine's economic value came to light4 ,the manufacture of the machines was in itself a boost to the economy of the emerging industrial ,united ,states1 as was the production of attachments for specialized stitching and the need for new types of needles and thread4 ,moreover1 the machine's ability to speed up production permitted it to permeate the entire field of products manufactured by any type of stitching1 from umbrellas to tents4 ,since this aspect of the story was not completed for this study1 no attempt will be made to include any definitive statements on the economic importance of the sewing machine at home or abroad4 ,this related information is of sufficient interest1 however1 to warrant inclusion in this first ,appendix4 ,perhaps these notes will suggest areas of future research for students of ,american technology4 ,,ready-,,made ,,clothing ,whether of the expensive or the inexpensive type1 the sewing machine was much more than a popular household appliance4 ,its introduction had far-reaching effects on many different types of manufacturing establishments as well as on the export trade4 ,the newly developing ready-made clothing industry was not only in a state of development to welcome the new machine but also was1 in all probability1 responsible for its immediate practical application and success4 ,until the early part of the second quarter of the #aith century1 the ready-made clothing trade in the ,united ,states was confined almost entirely to furnishing the clothing required by sailors about to ship out to sea4 ,the stores that kept these supplies were usually in the neighborhood of wharf areas4 ,but other than the needs of these seamen1 there was little market for ready-made goods4 ,out of necessity many of the families in the early years in this country had made their own clothing4 ,as wealth was acquired and taste could be cultivated1 professional seamstresses and tailors were in increasing demand1 moved into the cities and towns1 and even visited the smaller villages for as long as their services were needed4 ,at the same time a related trade was also growing in the cities1 especially in ,new ,york ,city1 that of dealing in second-hand clothing4 ,industrious persons bought up old clothes1 cleaned1 repaired and refinished them1 and sold the clothing to immigrants and transients who wished to avoid the high cost of new custom-made clothing4 ,the repairing of this second-hand clothing led to the purchase of cheap cloth at auction--half-burnt1 wet-goods1 and other damaged yardage4 ,when in excess of the repairing needs1 this fabric was made into garments and sold with the second-hand items4 ,many visitors who passed through ,new ,york ,city were found to be potential buyers of this merchandise if a better class of ready-made clothes was made available4 ,manufacture began to increase4 ,tailors of the city began to keep an assortment of finished garments on hand4 ,when visitors bought these1 they were also very likely to buy additional garments for resale at home4 ,the latter led to the establishment of the wholesale garment-manufacturing industry in ,new ,york about #ahcd-ce4 ,most of the ready-made clothing establishments were small operations1 not large factories4 ,large quantities of cloth were purchased2 cutting was done in multiple layers with tailor's shears4 ,since many seamstresses were needed1 the garments were farmed out to the girls in their homes4 ,the manufacture of garments in quantity meant that the profit on each garment was larger than a tailor could make on a single custom-made item4 ,the appeal of increased profits influenced many to enter the new industry and1 due to the ensuing competition1 the retail cost of each garment was lowered4 ,just as the new businesses were getting underway1 the ,panic of #ahcg ruined most of them4 ,but the lower cost and the convenience of ready-made clothing had left its mark4 ,not only was the garment-manufacturing business re-established soon after the ,panic had subsided1 but by #ahda the value of clothing sold at wholesale in ,new ,york was estimated at #b1ejj1jjj and by #ahej--;a year before sewing machines were manufactured in any quantity--there were #d1bgh clothing manufacturing establishments in the ,united ,states4 ,beside ,new ,york ,city1 ,cincinnati was also one of the important ready-made clothing centers4 ,in #ahej the value of its products amounted to #d1dbg1ejj and in #ahfj to #f1cha1aij4 ,boston was another important center with a ready-made clothing production of #d1efg1gdi in #ahfj4 ,philadelphia1 ,baltimore1 ,louisville1 and ,st4 ,louis all had a large wholesale clothing trade by #ahfj4 ,here was the ready market for a practical sewing machine4#gc ,clothing establishments grew and began to have agencies in small towns and the sewing work was distributed throughout the countryside4 ,the new1 competing sewing-machine companies were willing to deliver a machine for a small sum and to allow the buyer to pay a dollar or two a month until the full amount of the sale was paid4 ,this was an extension of the hire-purchase plan 7buying on credit7 initiated by ,clark of the ,singer ,company4 ,the home seamstresses were eager to buy1 for they were able to produce more piecework with a sewing machine and therefore earn more money4 ,an example of the effect that the sewing machine had on the stitching time required was interestingly established through a series of experiments conducted by the ,wheeler and ,wilson company4 ,four hand sewers and four sewing-machine operators were used to provide the average figures in this comparative time study1 the results of which were published in #ahfa2gd ,,number ,,of ,,stitches ,,per ,,minute ,by ,hand ,by ,machine ,patent leather1 fine stitching #g #age ,binding hats #cc #cgd ,stitching vamped shoes #aj #baj ,stitching fine linen #bc #fdj ,stitching fine silk #cj #eej ,,time ,,for ,,garments ,,stitched ,by ,hand ,by ,machine ,frock coats #af hrs4 #ce min4 #b hrs4 #ch min4 ,satin vests #g hrs4 #ai min4 #a hr4 #ad min4 ,summer pants #b hrs4 #ej min4 #j hr4 #ch min4 ,calico dress #f hrs4 #cg min4 #j hr4 #eg min4 ,plain apron #a hr4 #bf min4 #j hr4 #i min4 ,gentlemen's shirts #ad hrs4 #bf min4 #a hr4 #af min4 ,the factory manufacturer1 with the sewing work done at the factory1 was also developing4 ,in #ahfj1 ,oliver ,f4 ,winchester1 a shirt manufacturer of ,new ,haven1 ,connecticut1 stated that his factory turned out #hjj dozen shirts per week1 using #djj sewing machines and operators to do the work of #b1jjj hand sewers4 ,the price for hand sewing was then #c per week1 which made labor costs #fjjj per week4 ,the #djj machine operators received #d per week1 making the labor cost #afjj per week4 ,allowing #aej as the cost of each machine1 the sewing machines more than paid for themselves in less than #ad weeks1 increased the operators pay by #a a week1 and lowered the retail cost of the item4#ge ,the greatest savings of time1 which was as much as fifty percent1 was in the manufacture of light goods--such items as shirts1 aprons1 and calico dresses4 ,the ,commissioner of ,patents weighed the monetary effect that this or any invention had on the economy against the monetary gain received by the patentee4 ,when he found that the patentee had not been fairly compensated1 he had the authority to grant a seven-year extension to the patent4#gf ,the sewing machine also contributed to the popularity of certain fashions4 ,ready-made cloaks for women were a business of a few years' standing when the sewing machine was adopted for their manufacture in #ahec4 ,machine sewing reduced the cost of constructing the garment by about eighty percent1 thereby decreasing its price and increasing its popularity4 ,in ,new ,york ,city alone1 the value of the cloak and mantilla manufacture in #ahfj was #fah1djj4gg ,crinolines and hoopskirts were easier to stitch by machine than by hand1 and these items had a spirited period of popularity due to the introduction of the sewing machine4 ,braiding1 pleating1 and tucking adorned many costume items because they could be produced by machine with ease and rapidity4 ,in addition to using the sewing machine for the manufacture of shirts1 collars1 and related men's furnishings1 the machine was also used in the production of men's and boy's suits and reportedly gave a vast impetus to the trade4#gh ,the ,army1 however1 was not quite convinced of the sewing machine's practical adaptation to its needs4 ,although a sewing machine was purchased for the ,philadelphia ,quartermaster ,depot as early as #ahea1 they had only six by #ahfj4 ,on ,march #ca1 #ahei1 ,general ,jesup of the ,philadelphia ,depot wrote to a ,nechard ,company stating that the machine sewing had been tried but was not used for clothing1 only for stitching caps and chevrons4 ,in another letter1 on the same day1 to ,messers ,hebrard ,co41 ,louisiana ,steam ,clothing ,factory1 ,n4 ,orleans1 ,jesup states3 ,machine sewing has been tried with us1 and though it meets the requirements of a populous and civilized life1 it has been found not to answer for the hard wear and tear and limited means of our frontier service4 ,particular attention has been paid to this subject1 and we have abandoned the use of machines for coats1 jackets and trousers1 etc4 and use them on caps and bands that are not exposed to much hard usage4444#gi ,at this period prior to the ,civil ,war1 the ,army manufactured its own clothing4 ,as the demands of war increased1 more and more of the ,army's clothing supplies were furnished on open contract--with no specifications as to stitching4#hj ,machine stitching1 in fact1 is found in most of the ,civil ,war uniforms4 ,one of the problems that most probably affected the durability of the machine stitching in the #ahejs was the sewing thread1 a problem that was not solved until the #ahfjs and which is discussed later under thread for the machine4 ,illustration3 ,figure #ee4--;,,blake',s ,,leather-,,stitching ,,machine patent model of ,july #f1 #aheh2 the inventor claimed the arrangement of the mechanism used and an auxiliary arm capable of entering the shoe1 which enabled the outer sole to be stitched both to the inner sole and to the upper part of the shoe4 7,smithsonian photo #ejcfa47 ,,shoe ,,manufacture ,another industry that was aided by the new invention was that of shoe manufacture4 ,although the earliest sewing-machine patents in the ,united ,states reflect the inventors' efforts to solve the difficult task of leather stitching1 and1 although machines were used to a limited extent in stitching some parts of the shoe in the early and mid-#ahejs1 it was not until #aheh that a machine was invented that could stitch the sole to the inner sole and to the upper part of the shoe4 ,this was the invention of ,lyman ,r4 ,blake and was patented by him on ,july #h1 #aheh2 the patent model is shown in figure #ee4 ,blake formed a chainstitch by using a hooked needle1 which descended from above1 to draw a thread through the supporting arm4 ,serving as the machine's bedplate1 the arm was shaped to accommodate the stitching of all the parts of the shoe4 ,illustration3 ,figure #ef4--;,,harris' patent thread cutter1 #ahgb4 7,smithsonian photo ,p-#fcig47 ,illustration3 ,figure #eg4--,,west',s patent thread cutter1 #ahgd4 7,smithsonian photo ,p-#fcajj47 ,illustration3 ,figure #eh4--,,karr',s patent needle threader1 #ahga4 7,smithsonian photo ,p-#fcaja47 ,the increased number of shoes required by the ,army during the ,civil ,war spurred the use of the sewing machine in their manufacture4 ,the first machine sewed bootees were purchased by the ,army in #ahfa4 ,inventors continued their efforts2 the most prominent of these was ,gordon ,mc,kay1 who worked on an improvement of the ,blake machine with ,robert ,mathies in #ahfb and then with ,blake in #ahfd4 ,reportedly1 the ,government at first preferred the machine-stitched shoes as they lasted eight times longer than those stitched by hand2 during the war the ,army purchased #dgc1jjj pairs1 but in #ahga the ,quartermaster ,general wrote3 ,no complaints regarding the quality of these shoes were received up to ,february #ahfg when a ,board of ,survey1 which convened at ,hart's ,island1 ,new ,york ,harbor reported upon the inferior quality of certain machine sewed bootees of the ,mc,kay patent1 issued to the enlisted men at that post4 ,the acting ,quartermaster ,general1 ,col4 ,d4 ,h4 ,rucker1 ,april #aj1 #ahfg1 addressed a letter to all the officers in charge of depots1 with instructions not to issue any more of the shoes in question1 but to report to this office the quantity remaining in store4 ,from these reports it appears that there were in store at that time #cfb1jab pairs ,m4 ,s4 ,bootees1 all of which were ordered to be1 and have since been sold at public auction4#ha ,the exact complaint against the shoes was not recorded4 ,possibly the entire shoe was stitched by machine4 ,it was found that although machine-stitched shoes were more durable in some respects and the upper parts of most shoes continued to be machine stitched1 pegged soles for the more durable varieties remained the fashion for a decade or more1 as did custom hand-stitched shoes for those who could afford them4 ,,other ,,uses ,the use of sewing machines in all types of manufacturing that required stitching of any type continued to grow each year4 ,while the principal purpose for which they were utilized continued to be the manufacture of clothing items1 by the year #aijj they were also used for awnings1 tents1 and sails2 cloth bags2 bookbinding and related book manufacture2 flags and banners2 pocketbooks1 trunks1 and valises2 saddlery and harnesses2 mattresses2 umbrellas2 linen and rubber belting and hose2 to the aggregate sum of nearly a billion dollars--#igi1ihh1dac4hb ,,sewing-,,machine ,,attachments ,the growing popularity of the sewing machine offered still another boost to the economy--the development of many minor1 related manufacturing industries4 ,the repetitive need for machine needles1 the development of various types of attachments to simplify the many sewing tasks1 and the ever-increasing need for more and better sewing thread--the sewing machine consumed from two to five times as much thread as stitching by hand--created new manufacturing establishments and new jobs4 ,illustration3 ,figure #ei4--,,shank',s patent bobbin winder1 #ahgj4 7,smithsonian photo ,p-#fcih47 ,illustration3 ,figure #fj4--,,sweet',s patent binder1 #ahec4 7,smithsonian photo ,p-#fcif47 ,illustration3 ,figure #fa4--,,spoul',s patent braid guide1 #ahga4 7,smithsonian photo ,p-#fcajb47 ,illustration3 ,figure #fb4--,,rose',s patent embroiderer1 #ahha4 7,smithsonian photo ,p-#fcii47 ,illustration3 ,figure #fc4--;,,harris' patent buttonhole attachment1 #ahhb4 7,smithsonian photo ,p-#fcajc47 ,the method of manufacturing machine needles did not differ appreciably from the method used in making the common sewing needle1 but the latter had never become an important permanent industry in the ,united ,states4 ,since the manufacture of practical sewing machines was essentially an ,american development and the eye-pointed needle a vital component of the machine1 it followed that the manufacture of needles would also develop here4 ,although such a manufacture was established in #aheb1hc foreign imports still supplied much of the need in the #ahgjs4 ,as more highly specialized stitching machines were developed1 an ever-increasing variety of needles was required1 and the industry grew4 ,illustration3 ,figure #fd4--,,the ,,treadle ,,of ,,the ,,machine was also used to help create music4 ,george ,d4 ,garvie and ,george ,wood received patent #bfg1hgd1 ,nov4 #ba1 #ahhb1 for a cover for a sewing machine provided with a musical instrument and means for transmitting motion from the shaft of the sewing machine to the operating parts of the musical instrument4 ,although no patent model was submitted by the inventors1 the ,musical ,sewing ,machine ,cover was offered for sale as early as ,october #ahhb1 as shown by this advertisement that appeared in ,the ,sewing ,machine ,news that month4 7,smithsonian photo #egihc47 ,soon after the sewing machine was commercially successful1 special attachments for it were invented and manufactured4 ,these ranged from the simplest devices for cutting thread to complicated ones for making buttonholes 7see figs4 #ef through #ff74 ,illustration3 ,figure #fe4--,,this ,,fanning ,,attachment was commercially available from ,james ,morrison ,co4 in the early #ahgjs2 it sold for one dollar as stated in the advertising brochure from which this engraving was copied4 ,other inventors also patented similar implements4 7,smithsonian photo #deeac47 ,the first patent for an attachment was issued in #ahec to ,harry ,sweet for a binder1 used to stitch a special binding edge to the fabric4 ,other related attachments followed2 among these were the hemmer which was similar to the binder1 but turned the edge of the same piece of fabric to itself as the stitching was performed4 ,guides for stitching braid in any pattern1 as directed by the movement of the goods below1 were also developed2 this was followed by the embroiderer1 an elaborate form of braider4 ,the first machine to stitch buttonholes was patented in #ahed and the first buttonhole attachment in #ahef1 but the latter was not practical until improvements were made in the late #ahfjs4 ,special devices for refilling the bobbins were invented and patented as early as #ahfb1 and the popularity of tucked and ruffled garments inspired inventors to provide sewing-machine attachments for these purposes also4 ,to keep the seamstress cool1 ,c4 ,d4 ,stewart patented an attachment for fanning the operator by an action derived from the treadle 7fig4 #fe74 ,while electric sewing machines did not become common until the #bjth century1 several #aith-century inventors considered the possibility of attaching a type of motor to the machine4 ,one was the #ahga patent of ,solomon ,jones1 who added an electro motor to an #ahfe ,bartlett machine 7fig4 #ff74 ,the attachments that were developed during the latter part of the #aith century numbered in the thousands2 many of these were superfluous4 ,most of the basic ones in use today were developed by the #ahhjs and remain almost unchanged4 ,even the recently popular home zigzag machine1 an outgrowth of the buttonhole machine1 was in commercial use by the #ahgjs4 ,illustration3 ,figure #ff4--;,,jones ,,electro ,,motor ,,patent ,,model of #ahga on a ,bartlett sewing machine4 7,smithsonian photo ,p-#fcajd47 ,sewing-machine improvements have been made from time to time4 ,like other mechanical items the machine has become increasingly automatic1 but the basic principles remain the same4 ,one of the more recent developments1 patented#hd in #aicc by ,valentine ,naftali et al41 is for a manufacturing machine that imitates hand stitching4 ,this machine uses a two-pointed floating needle that is passed completely through the fabric--the very idea that was attempted over one hundred years ago4 ,the machine is currently used by commercial manufacturers to produce decorative edge-stitching that very closely resembles hand stitching4 ,,thread ,,for ,,the ,,machine ,illustration3 ,figure #fg4--,,six-,,cord cabled thread4 ,the need for a good thread durable enough to withstand the action of machine stitching first created a problem and ultimately another new industry in this country4 ,when the sewing machine was first developed the inventors necessarily had to use the sewing thread that was available4 ,but1 although the contemporary thread was quite suitable for hand sewing1 it did not lend itself to the requirements of the machine4 ,cotton thread1 then more commonly a three-ply variety1 had a glazed finish and was wiry4 ,silk thread frequently broke owing to abrasion at the needle eye4 ,for the most part linen thread was too coarse1 or the fine variety was too expensive4 ,all of the thread had imperfections that went unnoticed in the hands of a seamstress1 but caused havoc in a machine4 ,quality silk thread that would withstand the rigors of machine stitching could be produced1 but it was quite expensive also4 ,a new type of inexpensive thread was needed2 the obvious answer lay in improving the cotton thread4#he ,in addition to the popular three-ply variety1 cotton thread was also made by twisting together either two single yarns or more than three yarns4 ,increasing the number of yarns produced a more cylindrical thread4 ,the earliest record of a six-ply cotton thread was about #ahdj4hf ,and in #ahej ,c4 ,e4 ,bennett of ,portsmouth1 ,new ,hampshire1 received a gold medal for superior six-cord1 or six-ply1 spool cotton at the ,fair of the ,american ,institute4 ,but the thread was still wiry and far from satisfactory4 ,by the mid-#ahfjs the demonstrated need for thread manufacturers in ,america brought ,george ,a4 ,clark and ,william ,clark1 third generation cotton-thread manufacturers of ,paisley1 ,scotland1 to ,newark1 ,new ,jersey1 where they built a large mill4 ,george ,clark decided that a thread having both a softer finish and a different construction was needed4 ,he produced a six-cord cabled thread1 made up of three two-ply yarns 7see fig4 #fg74 ,the thread was called ,clark's ',our ,new ,thread1' which was later shortened to ,o4,n4,t4 ,the basic machine-thread problem was solved4 ,when other manufacturers used the six-cord cabled construction they referred to their thread as ,best ,six-,cord#hg or ,superior ,six-,cord#hh to distinguish it from the earlier variety made up of six single yarns in a simple twist4 ,another new side industry of the sewing machine was successfully established4 ,,manufacture ,,and ,,export1 ,,to #aijj ,sewing machines were a commodity in themselves1 both at home and abroad4 ,in #ahej1 there were no establishments exclusively devoted to the manufacture of sewing machines1 the few constructed were made in small machine shops4 ,the industry1 however1 experienced a very rapid growth during the next ten years4 ,by #ahfj there were #gd factories in #ab ,states1#hi mainly in the ,east and ,midwest1#ij producing over #aaa1jjj sewing machines a year4 ,in addition1 there were #ad factories that produced sewing-machine cases and attachments4 ,the yearly value of these products was approximately four and a half million dollars1 of which the amount exported in #ahfa was #fa1jjj4 ,although the number of sewing-machine factories dropped from #gd in #ahfj to #fi by #ahgj1 the value of the machines produced increased to almost sixteen million dollars4 ,the number of sewing-machine companies fluctuated greatly from year to year as many attempted to enter this new field of manufacture4 ,some were not able to make a commercial success of their products4 ,the ,civil ,war did not seem to be an important factor in the number of companies in business in the ,north4 ,although one manufacturer ceased operations in ,richmond1 ,virginia1 and a ,vermont firm converted to arms manufacture1 several companies began operations during the war years4 ,of the #fi firms in business in #ahgj1 only part had been in business since #ahfj or before2 some were quite new as a result of the expiration of the ,howe patent renewal in #ahfg4 ,probably due to the termination of many of the major patents1 there were #abd factories in #ahhj1 but the yearly product value remained at sixteen million dollars4 ,the #ahij census reports only #ff factories with a yearly production of a little less than the earlier decade4 ,but by #aijj1 the yearly production of a like number of factories had reached a value of over twenty-one million1 of which four and a half million dollars worth were exported annually4 ,the total value of ,american sewing machines exported from #ahfj to #aijj was approximately ninety million dollars4 ,the manufacture of sewing machines made a significant contribution to the economic development of #aith-century ,america4 ,,footnotes3 #gc ,eighth ,census1 #ahfj1 ,manufactures1 ,clothing 7,united ,states ,census ,office1 published ,government ,printing ,office3 ,washington1 ,d4,c41 #ahfe74 #gd ,eighty ,years of ,progress of the ,united ,states 7,new ,york1 #ahfa71 vol4 #b1 pp4 #dac-dbi4 #ge ,,george ,,gifford1 ,argument of ,george ,gifford in ,favor of the ,howe ,application for ,extension of ,patent 7,new ,york3 ,united ,states ,patent ,office1 #ahfj74 #gf ,op4 cit4 7footnote #cd74 #gg ,eighth ,census1 #ahfj1 ,manufactures 7,united ,states ,census ,office1 published ,government ,printing ,office3 ,washington1 ,d4,c41 #ahfe71 ,women's ,ready-,made ,clothing1 p4 #hc4 #gh ,ibid41 p4 #fd4 #gi ,national ,archives1 ,record ,group #ib1 ,office of the ,quartermaster ,general1 ,clothing ,book1 ,letters ,sent1 volume #ag4 #hj ,the author wishes to acknowledge the valuable help of ,mr4 ,donald ,kloster of the ,smithsonian ,institution's ,division of ,military ,history for the preceding four references and related information4 #ha ,letter of ,nov4 #d1 #ahga1 to ,col4 ,theo4 ,a4 ,dodge1 ,,usa 7,ret471 ,boston1 from ,quartermaster ,general ,m4 ,c4 ,meigs1 in the ,national ,archives1 ,record ,group #ib1 ,quartermaster ,general's ,office1 ,letters ,sent1 ,clothing ,supplies1 #ahga4 #hb ,twelfth ,census of the ,united ,states1 #aijj1 vol4 #aj1 ,manufactures1 ,part #d1 ,special ,reports on ,selected ,industries 7,united ,states ,census ,office1 ,washington1 ,d4,c41 #aijb74 #hc ,,charles ,m4 ,,karch1 ,needles3 ,historical and ,descriptive1 in ,twelfth ,census of the ,united ,states1 #aijj1 vol4 #aj1 ,manufactures1 ,part #d1 ,special ,reports on ,selected ,industries 7,united ,states ,census ,office3 ,washington1 ,d4,c41 #aijb71 pp4 #dbi-dcb4 #hd ,u4,s4 patent #a1ica1ddg1 issued to ,valentine ,naftali1 ,henry ,naftali1 and ,rudolph ,naftali1 ,oct4 #ag1 #aicc4 ,the ,naftali machines are manufactured by the ,american ,machine and ,foundry ,company and are called ,,amf ,stitching ,machines4 #he ,see ,appendix ,v1 p4 #ace1 ,a ,brief ,history of ,cotton ,thread4 #hf ,the ,story of ,cotton ,thread 7,new ,york1 ,the ,spool ,cotton ,company1 #aicc74 #hg ,j4 and ,p4 ,coats spool cotton4 #hh ,willimantic spool cotton4 #hi ,new ,hampshire1 ,vermont1 ,massachusetts1 ,rhode ,island1 ,connecticut1 ,new ,york1 ,pennsylvania1 ,delaware1 ,ohio1 ,indiana1 ,illinois1 ,kentucky4 ,eighth ,census1 #ahfj1 ,manufactures 7,united ,states ,census ,office1 published by ,government ,printing ,office3 ,washington1 ,d4,c41 #ahfe47 #ij ,sewing-machine manufacture in the ,south was just beginning to blossom when it was curtailed by the outbreak of the ,civil ,war4 ,see ,lester sewing machine1 figure #aji on page #ajb4 ,,ii4 ,american ,sewing-,machine ,companies of the #aith ,century ,during the latter half of the #aith century1 there was a total of two hundred or more sewing-machine companies in the ,united ,states4 ,although a great many manufacturing-type machines were sold1 this business was carried on by relatively few companies and most were primarily concerned with the family-type machines4 ,a representative number of these family machines together with information concerning both the company and serial-number dating are found in figures #fh through #acb4 ,a great many of the companies were licensed by the ,combination1 but1 in addition1 some companies were constructing machines that did not infringe the patents1 other companies infringed the patents but managed to avoid legal action1 and there were numerous companies that mushroomed into existence after the ,combination was dissolved in #ahgg4 ,most of the latter were very short-lived4 ,it is difficult to establish the exact dates of some of these companies as many of their records were incomplete or have since disappeared2 even a great many of the ,combination records were lost by fire4 ,a summary of the existing records kept by the ,combination is given in figure #cg4 ,as will be noted in the subsequent listing1 only a small percentage of the companies were in business for a period longer than ten years2 of those that continued longer1 all but a few had disappeared by #aiaj4 ,today there are about sixty ,united ,states sewing-machine companies4 ,most of them manufacture highly specialized sewing machines used for specific types of commercial work2 only a few produce family or home-style machines4 ,foreign competition has increased1 and the high cost of skilled labor in this country has made competition in this consumer-product field increasingly difficult4 ,the countless varieties of ,american family sewing machines1 so evident in the #aith century1 have passed away4 ,first ,made ,discontinued ,manufacturer or ,earliest or ,last ,sewing ,machine or ,company ,record ,record ,aetna ,aetna ,sewing ,machine ca4 #ahfg ca4 #ahgg ,co41 ,lowell1 ,mass4 ,aiken and ----1 ,ithaca1 ,n4,y4 ca4 #ahee before #ahhj ,felthousen ,alsop ---- -- ca4 #ahhj ,american ,american ,sewing #ahed -- ,machine ,co4 ,american ,buttonhole1 ,american ,buttonhole1 #ahfi ca4 #ahgd ,overseaming and ,overseaming and ,sewing ,machine ,sewing ,machine ,co41 7fig4 #fh7 ,philadelphia1 ,pa4 ,later ,new ,american ,sewing ca4 #ahgd ca4 #ahhf ,american ,machine ,co41 7fig4 #fi7 ,philadelphia1 ,pa4 ,american ,magnetic ,american ,magnetic #ahec #ahed 7fig4 #gj7 ,sewing ,machine ,company1 ,ithaca1 ,n4,y4 ,atlantic 7fig4 #ga7 ---- #ahfi ca4 #ahgj ,atwater 7fig4 #hg7 ---- #aheg ca4 #ahfj ,avery ,avery ,sewing ,machine #aheb #ahe- ,co41 ,new ,york1 ,n4,y4 ,avery ,avery ,manufacturing #ahge #ahhf-aijj ,co41 ,new ,york1 ,n4,y4 ,a4 ,bartholf ,manfr4 ,a4 ,bartholf1 ca4 #ahej #ahe- ,blodgett ,lerow manufacturer1 patent #ahdi ,new ,york1 ,n4,y4 7see also7 ,a4 ,bartholf ,manfr4 ,a4 ,bartholf1 #ahec ca4 #ahef ,howe's patent1 manufacturer1 #ahdf 7fig4 #gb7 ,new ,york1 ,n4,y4 ,bartholf ,a4 ,bartholf1 #aheg #ahei manufacturer ,bartholf ,sewing #ahei ca4 #ahfe ,machine ,co4 ,bartlett 7fig4 #gc7 ,goodspeed ,wyman #ahff ca4 #ahgj ,bartlett ,sewing ,machine ca4 #ahgj #ahgb ,co41 ,new ,york1 ,n4,y4 ,baker ---- -- before #ahhj ,bartram ,fanton ,bartram ,fanton ,mfg4 #ahfg #ahgd 7fig4 #gd7 ,co41 ,danbury1 ,conn4 ,bay ,state ---- -- before #ahhj ,beckwith 7fig4 #ge7 ,barlow ,son1 ,new ,york1 #ahga #ahgb ,n4,y4 ,beckwith ,sewing ,machine #ahgb ca4 #ahgf ,co41 ,new ,york1 ,n4,y4 ,blees ,blees ,sewing ,machine #ahgj #ahgc ,co4 ,blodgett ,lerow ,o4 ,phelps1 ,boston1 #ahdi #ahdi 7fig4 #ba7 ,mass4 ,goddard1 ,rice ,co41 #ahdi #ahej ,worcester1 ,mass4 7fig4 #bj7 ,a4 ,bartholf1 #ahdi #ahe- manufacturer1 ,new ,york1 ,n4,y4 ,bond ---- -- before #ahhj ,boston ,j4 ,f4 ,paul ,co41 #ahhj -- ,boston1 ,mass4 ,later ,new ,boston ,boston ,sewing ,machine -- after #ahhf ,co41 ,boston1 ,mass4 ,boudoir 7fig4 #gf7 ,daniel ,harris1 #aheg ca4 #ahgj inventor and patentee ,manufacturer--several ,bradford ,barber ,bradford ,barber1 #ahfj #ahfa manufacturers1 ,boston1 ,mass4 ,brattleboro ,samuel ,barker and ca4 #aheh #ahfa ,thomas ,white1 ,brattleboro1 ,vt4 ,buckeye ,wilson ,w4,g4 ,sewing ca4 #ahfg ca4 #ahgf ,later ,new ,buckeye ,machine ,company1 7fig4 #gg7 ,cleveland1 ,ohio 7see ,wilson7 ,buell1 ,e4 ,t4 ,a4 ,b4 ,buell1 ca4 #ahfj -- ,lathbury's ,patent ,westmoreland1 ,new ,york ,burnet ,broderick ,burnet1 ,broderick and #ahei ca4 #ahfj ,co4 ,centennial ,centennial ,sewing #ahgc #ahgf 7fig4 #gh7 ,machine ,co4 7see ,mc,lean and ,hooper71 ,philadelphia1 ,pa4 ,chamberlain ,woolridge1 ,keene and #ahec ca4 #ahed ,moore1 ,lynn1 ,mass4 ,chicago ,singer ,scates1 ,tryber #ahgi #ahhb ,sweetland ,mfg4 ,co41 ,chicago1 ,ill4 ,later ,chicago ,chicago ,sewing ,machine #ahhb ca4 #ahhe ,co4 ,chicopee 7see ,shaw ,clark7 ,clark 7fig4 #db7 ,d4 ,w4 ,clark1 ca4 #aheh after #ahfj ,bridgeport1 ,conn4 ,clark's ,revolving ,lamson1 ,goodnow ,yale1 #ahei #ahfa ,looper double ,windsor1 ,vt4 thread 7fig4 #gi7 7see ,windsor7 ,clinton ,clinton ,brothers1 ca4 #ahfa ca4 #ahfe ,ithaca1 ,n4,y4 ,companion ,thurston ,mfg4 ,co41 #ahhb -- ,marlboro1 ,n4,h4 ,crown ,florence ,sewing ,machine #ahgi after #ahhf 7see ,florence7 ,co41 ,florence1 ,mass4 ,dauntless 7later ,dauntless ,mfg4 ,co41 #ahgg after #ahhb ,new ,dauntless7 ,norwalk1 ,ohio ,davis ,j4,a4 ,davis1 ,new ,york1 ca4 #ahfj -- ,n4,y4 ,davis ,vertical ,davis ,sewing ,machine #ahfi after #ahhf ,feed ,co41 ,watertown1 ,n4,y4 ,davis ,vertical ,davis ,sewing ,machine after #ahhf #aibd ,feed and ,co41 ,dayton1 ,ohio ,rotary ,shuttle ,decker 7also ,the ,decker ,mfg4 ,co41 -- before #ahha ,princess7 ,detroit1 ,mich4 ,demorest ,demorest ,mfg4 ,co #ahhb #aijh 7formerly ,n4,y4 ,sewing ,machine ,co47 ,diamond 7formerly ,sigwalt ,sewing ,machine #ahhj -- ,sigwalt7 ,co41 ,chicago1 ,ill4 ,domestic ,wm4 ,a4 ,mack ,co4 and #ahfd #ahfi ,n4 ,s4 ,perkins1 ,norwalk1 ,ohio ,domestic ,domestic ,sewing ,machine #ahfi ,a ,co41 ,norwalk1 ,ohio1 acquired by ,white ,sewing ,machine ,co4 in #aibd and maintained as a subsidiary at ,cleveland1 ,ohio4 ,dorcas ,john ,p4 ,bowker1 ,boston1 #ahec #ahe- ,mass4 ,du ,laney 7fig4 #hj7 ,also called ,little ,monitor 7see7 ,durgin ,charles ,a4 ,durgin1 ,new #ahec after #ahee ,york1 ,n4,y4 ,eldredge ,eldredge ,sewing ,machine #ahfi #ahij ,co41 ,chicago1 ,ill4 ,elliptic ,sloat's ,elliptic ,george ,b4 ,sloat and ,co41 ca4 #aheh ca4 #ahfj ,philadelphia1 ,pa4 ,sloat's ,elliptic ,union ,sewing ,machine #ahfj #ahfa ,co41 ,richmond1 ,va4 ,elliptic ,wheeler ,wilson ,mfg4 #ahfa ca4 #ahfg ,co4 ,elliptic ,sewing #ahfg before #ahhj ,machine ,co41 ,n4,y41 ,n4,y4 ,empire 7fig4 #hf7 ,empire ,sewing ,machine ca4 #ahfj #ahfi ,later ,co41 ,boston1 ,mass4 ,remington-,empire ,empress ,manufactured on order #ahgg -- through ,jerome ,b4 ,secor1 ,bridgeport1 ,conn4 ,estey ,estey ,sewing ,machine ca4 #ahhj #ahhb ,co4 ,estey1 ,brattleboro ,sewing #ahhc after #ahhf ,fuller-,model ,machine ,co41 ,brattleboro1 ,vt4 ,eureka 7fig4 #ha7 ,eureka ,shuttle ,sewing #ahei -- ,new ,york1 ,n4,y4 ,excelsior ,excelsior ,sewing ,machine #ahed #ahed ,co41 ,new ,york1 ,n4,y4 ,fairy 7figs4 #ea1 #eb7 ,madame ,demorest1 ,new #ahfc ca4 #ahfe ,york1 ,n4,y4 ,finkle1 ,m4 7fig4 #hb7 ,m4 ,finkle1 ,boston1 #ahef ca4 #ahei ,mass4 ,finkle ,lyon ,finkle ,lyon ,sewing ca4 #ahei #ahfg ,machine ,co41 ,boston1 ,mass4 ,later ,victor ,first and ,frost ,first and ,frost1 ,new ca4 #ahei ca4 #ahfa ,york1 ,n4,y4 ,florence 7fig4 #hc7 ,florence ,sewing ,machine ca4 #ahfj after #ahgh ,later ,crown ,co41 ,florence1 ,mass4 ,folsom ,folsom1 ,j4 ,g41 #ahfe ca4 #ahga 7see ,globe and ,winchendon1 ,mass4 ,new ,england7 ,fosket and ,savage ,fosket and ,savage1 #aheh #ahei ,meriden1 ,conn4 ,foxboro ,foxboro ,rotary ,shuttle ca4 #ahhb -- ,co41 ,foxboro1 ,mass4 ,franklin ,franklin ,sewing ,machine #ahga #ahga ,co41 ,mason ,village1 ,n4,h4 ,free ,free ,sewing ,machine #ahih ,a ,co41 ,chicago and ,rockford1 ,ill4 ,gardner ,c4 ,r4 ,gardner1 #ahef -- ,detroit1 ,mich4 ,globe 7figs4 #hd1 #he7 ,j4 ,g4 ,folsom1 #ahfe #ahfi ,winchendon1 ,mass4 ,gold ,medal ,gold ,medal ,sewing #ahfc #ahgf 7chainstitch7 ,machine ,co41 ,orange1 ,mass4 ,gold ,medal ---- #ahfc ca4 #ahfe 7running stitch7 ,gold ,hibbard ,hibbard1 ,b4 ,s41 ,co4 #ahge -- ,goodbody 7sewing ,goodbody ,sewing ,machine #ahhj ca4 #ahij shears7 ,co41 ,bridgeport1 ,conn4 ,goodes ,rex ,bockius1 ca4 #ahgf before #ahha ,philadelphia1 ,pa4 ,goodrich ,h4 ,b4 ,goodrich1 ,chicago1 ca4 #ahhj ca4 #ahie ,ill4 ,grant ,brothers ,grant ,bros4 ,co41 #ahfg ca4 #ahgj 7fig4 #ij7 ,philadelphia1 ,pa4 ,greenman and ,true ,greenman and ,true ,mfg4 #ahei #ahfj 7fig4 #ia7 ,co4 ,norwich1 ,conn4 ,morse and ,true #ahfj #ahfa ,green ,mountain ---- ca4 #ahfj -- ,griswold ,variety ,l4 ,griswold1 ,new ,york1 ca4 #ahhf ca4 #ahij ,n4,y4 ,grover and ,baker ,grover and ,baker ,sewing #ahea #ahge 7figs4 #cd-cf1 #ib7 ,machine ,co41 ,boston1 ,mass4 ,hancock ---- #ahfh before #ahha 7figs4 #ic1 #id7 ,heberling ,running ,john ,heberling #ahgh ca4 #ahhe ,stitch ,herron's ,patent ---- #aheg -- 7fig4 #ie7 ,higby ,higby ,sewing ,machine ca4 #ahhb after #ahhf ,later ,acme ,co41 ,brattleboro1 ,vt4 ,home ,johnson1 ,clark ,co41 #ahfi after #ahgf ,home ,shuttle ,orange1 ,mass4 ,homestead ---- ca4 #ahha -- ,household ,providence ,tool ,co41 #ahhj ca4 #ahhd ,providence1 ,r4,i4 ,household ,sewing ca4 #ahhe #aijf ,machine ,co4 ,howe 7figs4 #if1 #ig7 ,howe ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #ahec #ahgc ,new ,york1 ,n4,y4 7company of ,a4 ,b4 ,howe sold to ,howe ,machine ,co47 ,howe 7fig4 #ih7 ,howe ,machine ,co41 #ahfg #ahhf ,bridgeport1 ,conn4 ,howe's ,improved ,nichols and ,bliss1 #aheb #ahec ,patent 7fig4 #ajg7 ,boston1 ,mass4 ,j4 ,b4 ,nichols ,co4 #ahec #ahed which became ,nichols1 ,leavitt ,co41 #ahed #ahef ,leavitt ,boston1 ,mass4 ,n4 ,hunt1 which ,n4 ,hunt ,co41 ,boston1 #ahec #ahed became ,hunt and ,mass4 ,webster 7figs4 #ii1 ,hunt and ,webster1 #ahed #aheg #ajj7 ,boston1 ,mass4 ,later ,ladd and ,webster 7see7 ,improved ,common ---- ca4 #ahgj -- ,sense 7fig4 #ajb7 ,independent ,independent ,sewing #ahgc -- ,noiseless ,machine ,co41 ,binghamton1 ,n4,y4 ,jennie ,june ,june ,mfg4 ,co41 ,chicago1 #ahha #ahij ,ill4 ,later ,belvidere1 ,ill4 ,jewel ,jewel ,mfg4 ,co41 ,toledo1 #ahhd after #ahhf ,ohio ,johnson 7fig4 #ajc7 ,emery1 ,houghton ,co41 #ahef after #ahfe ,boston1 ,mass4 ,keystone ,keystone ,sewing ,machine before #ahgb ca4 #ahgd ,co4 ,ladd ,webster ,ladd1 ,webster ,co41 #aheh ca4 #ahff 7fig4 #aja7 ,boston1 ,mass4 ,ladies ,companion ---- #aheh ca4 #aheh 7fig4 #aae7 7see ,pratt's ,patent7 ,lady 7fig4 #ajd7 ---- #ahei -- ,landfear's ,patent ,parkers1 ,snow1 ,brooks #aheg -- 7fig4 #aje7 ,co41 ,west ,meriden1 ,conn4 ,langdon ,l4,w4 ,langdon #ahef -- ,lathrop 7fig4 #ajf7 ,lathrop ,combination #ahgc -- ,sewing ,machine ,co4 ,leader ,leader ,sewing ,machine #ahhb -- ,co41 ,springfield1 ,mass4 ,leavitt 7fig4 #ajh7 ,nichols1 ,leavitt ,co41 #ahee #aheg ,boston1 ,mass4 ,leavitt ,co4 #aheg ca4 #ahfe ,leavitt ,sewing ,machine ca4 #ahfe #ahgj ,co4 ,leslie ,revolving ,leslie ,sewing ,machine #ahha -- ,shuttle ,co41 ,cleveland1 ,ohio ,lester 7fig4 #aji7 ,j4,h4 ,lester1 ,brooklyn1 ca4 #aheh early #ahfj ,n4,y4 ,lester ,mfg4 ,co41 early #ahfj late #ahfj ,richmond1 ,va4 ,union ,sewing ,machine late #ahfj #ahfa ,co41 ,richmond1 ,va4 ,little ,gem ---- -- ca4 #ahgj ,little ,giant ,domestic ,sewing ,machine ca4 #ahhb -- ,co41 ,norwalk1 ,ohio ,little ,monitor 7not ,g4,l4 ,du ,laney1 ,brooklyn1 ca4 #ahff after #ahge associated with ,n4,y4 ,monitor7 ,love ,love ,mfg4 ,co41 #ahhe after #ahhf ,pittsburgh1 ,pa4 ,lyon ,lyon ,sewing ,machine ,co4 #ahgi ca4 #ahhj ,macauley ,thos4 ,a4 ,macauley ,mfg41 before #ahgi -- ,new ,york1 ,n4,y4 ,manhattan ,manhattan ,sewing ,machine ca4 #ahfh ca4 #ahhj ,co4 ,mc,kay ,mc,kay ,sewing ,machine #ahgj #ahgf ,assoc4 ,mc,lean and ,hooper ,b4 ,w4 ,lacy ,co41 ca4 #ahfi ca4 #ahgc ,philadelphia1 ,pa4 7see ,centennial7 ,meyers ,j4 ,m4 ,meyers #ahei -- ,miller's ,patent ---- #ahec -- ,monitor 7fig4 #hh7 ,shaw ,clark ,sewing #ahfj #ahfd ,machine ,co41 ,biddeford1 ,me4 ,moore ,moore ,sewing ,machine ca4 #ahfj -- ,co4 ,morey ,johnson ,safford ,williams #ahdi ca4 #ahea 7fig4 #ah7 ,makers1 ,boston1 ,mass4 ,morrison ,morrison1 ,wilkinson #ahha -- ,co41 ,hartford1 ,conn4 ,mower ---- ca4 #ahfc -- ,national ,johnson1 ,clark ,co41 #ahgd -- ,orange1 ,mass4 ,national 7also sold ,national ,sewing ,machine #ahij #aiec under distributor's ,co4 7consolidation of name7 the ,june and ,eldredge ,companies71 ,belvidere1 ,ill4 ,ne ,plus ,ultra ,o4 ,l4 ,reynolds #aheg -- 7fig4 #aaj7 ,manufacturing ,co41 ,dover1 ,n4,h4 ,nettleton ,raymond ,nettleton ,raymond1 ca4 #aheg -- 7fig4 #aaa7 ,brattleboro1 ,vt4 ,new ,england ,charles ,raymond 7also ca4 #ahei #ahff 7figs4 #aab1 #aac7 by3 ,grout ,white1 #ahfb #ahfc ,orange1 ,mass42 ,william #ahfc -- ,grout1 ,winchendon1 #ahfe #ahfe ,mass42 and ,j4 ,g4 ,folsom1 ,winchendon1 ,mass47 ,newell ---- #ahha -- ,new ,fairbanks ,j4 ,h4 ,drew ,co4 #ahgh #ahhj ,thomas ,m4 ,cochrane #ahhj -- ,co41 ,belleville1 ,ill4 ,new ,home ,new ,home ,sewing ,machine #ahgf ,a ,co41 ,orange1 ,mass4 7in #aibh became affiliated with ,free ,sewing ,machine ,co47 ,new ,york ----1 ,new ,york1 ,n4,y4 ca4 #ahee ca4 #ahee ,new ,york ,shuttle ,n4,y4 ,sewing ,machine ,co41 before #ahhj #ahhb ,new ,york1 ,n4,y4 7later ,demorest ,mfg4 ,co47 ,noble ,noble ,sewing ,machine before #ahha after #ahhf ,co41 ,erie1 ,pa4 ,novelty ,c4 ,a4 ,french1 ,boston1 #ahfi -- ,mass4 ,old ,dominion ,old ,dominion ,sewing ca4 #aheh #ahfj ,machine ,co41 ,richmond1 ,va4 ,pardox ---- ca4 #ahfe -- ,parham ,parham ,sewing ,machine ca4 #ahfi ca4 #ahga ,co41 ,philadelphia1 ,pa4 ,parker ,charles ,parker ,co41 before #ahfj after #ahfe ,meriden1 ,conn4 ,later ,parker ,sewing ,machine ,co4 ,pearl ---- ,bennett ca4 #ahei -- ,philadelphia ,philadelphia ,sewing ca4 #ahgb ca4 #ahha ,machine ,co41 ,philadelphia1 ,pa4 ,post ,combination ,post ,combination ,sewing before #ahhe after #ahhf ,machine ,co41 ,washington1 ,d4,c4 ,pratt's ,patent ---- #aheg ca4 #aheh 7fig4 #aad7 ,later ,ladies ,companion ,queen ,dauntless ,mfg ,co41 ca4 #ahha -- ,norwalk1 ,ohio ,quaker ,city ,quaker ,city ,sewing #ahei ca4 #ahfa 7fig4 #aaf7 ,machine ,co41 ,philadelphia1 ,pa4 ,remington ,empire ,remington ,empire ,sewing #ahgj #ahgb ,later ,remington ,machine ,co4 ,e4 ,remington ,sons1 #ahgc ca4 #ahid ,philadelphia1 ,pa4 ,robertson 7dolphin ,t4 ,w4 ,robertson1 ,new #ahee after #ahfj cherub7 7figs4 ,york1 ,n4,y4 #dj1 #da7 ,robinson ,f4 ,r4 ,robinson1 ,boston1 #ahec ca4 #ahee ,mass4 ,robinson's patent ,howard ,davis1 ,boston1 #ahee -- sewing machine ,mass4 with ,roper's improvement 7fig4 #aag7 ,later ,robinson same #ahef before #ahfj and ,roper 7fig4 #aah7 ,royal ,st4 ,john ,royal ,sewing ,machine ca4 #ahhc #ahih 7formerly ,st4 ,john7 ,co41 ,springfield1 ,ohio 7later ,free ,co47 ,ruddick ---- ca4 #ahfj -- ,secor ,secor ,machine ,co41 #ahgj #ahgf ,bridgeport1 ,conn4 ,sewing ,shears ,nettleton ,raymond1 ca4 #ahei -- 7,hendrick's patent7 ,bristol1 ,conn4 7fig4 #dc7 ,sewing ,shears ,american ,hand ,sewing ca4 #ahhd ca4 #aijj ,machine ,co41 ,bridgeport1 ,conn4 ,shaw ,clark ,shaw ,clark ,co41 ca4 #aheg #ahff ,running ,stitch ,biddeford1 ,me4 ,machine 7fig4 #ec7 ,chainstitch ,machine 7fig4 #aai7 ,chainstitch ,shaw ,clark ,co41 #ahfg #ahfh ,machine 7fig4 #abj7 ,chicopee ,falls1 ,mass4 ,chicopee ,sewing ,machine #ahfh ca4 #ahfi ,co41 ,chicopee ,falls1 ,mass4 ,sigwalt ,sigwalt ,sewing ,machine ca4 #ahgi -- ,co41 ,chicago1 ,ill4 ,singer 7figs4 #bh1 ,i4 ,m4 ,singer ,co4 #ahea ,a #bi1 #cj1 #cb1 #cc1 7later ,singer ,mfg4 ,co474 #aba1 #abb7 ,moved from ,boston to ,new ,york to ,elizabethport1 ,n4,j4 7factory74 ,springfield ,springfield ,sewing #ahhj -- ,machine ,co41 ,springfield1 ,mass4 ,standard ---- #ahgj -- 7chainstitch7 7fig4 #abc7 ,standard ,standard ,shuttle ,sewing #ahgd ca4 #ahha 7shuttle7 ,machine ,co41 ,new ,york1 ,n4,y4 ,standard ,standard ,sewing ,machine #ahhd ca4 #aicj ,co41 ,cleveland1 ,ohio 7acquired by ,singer ,co47 ,stewart ,henry ,stewart ,co41 #ahgd #ahhj ,n4,y41 ,n4,y4 ,later ,new ,stewart ,mfg ,co4 #ahhj ca4 #ahhc ,stewart ,st4 ,john 7later ,st4 ,john ,sewing ,machine #ahgj ca4 #ahhc ,royal ,st4 ,john7 ,co41 ,springfield1 ,o4 ,taggart ,farr ,taggart ,farr1 #aheh -- 7figs4 #abd1 #abe7 ,philadelphia1 ,pa4 ,thompson ,c4 ,f4 ,thompson ,co4 #ahga #ahga ,t4 ,c4 ,thompson1 ,ithaca1 ca4 #ahed -- ,n4,y4 ,union ,johnson1 ,clark ,co41 #ahgf -- ,orange1 ,mass4 ,victor ,finkle ,lyon ,mfg4 ,co4 #ahfg ca4 #ahgb ,victor ,sewing ,machine ca4 #ahgb ca4 #ahij ,co41 ,middletown1 ,conn4 ,wardwell ,wardwell ,mfg4 ,co41 ,st4 ca4 #ahgf #ahij ,louis1 ,mo4 ,watson 7fig4 #abf7 ,jones ,lee #ahej ca4 #ahec ,watson ,wooster1 ca4 #ahec ca4 #ahfj ,bristol1 ,conn4 ,waterbury ,waterbury ,co41 #ahec ca4 #ahfj ,waterbury1 ,conn4 ,weed ,t4 ,e4 ,weed ,co4 7became #ahed -- ,whitney ,lyons7 ,weed ,weed ,sewing ,machine ,co4 #ahfe -- 7reorganized from ,whitney ,lyons71 ,hartford1 ,conn4 ,family ,favorite #ahfg -- ,manu4 ,favorite #ahfh -- ,general ,favorite #ahgb -- ,hartford #ahha ca4 #aijj ,wesson ,farmer ,gardner #ahgi #ahhj ,manufacturing ,co4 ,d4 ,b4 ,wesson ,sewing #ahhj -- ,machine ,co41 ,springfield1 ,mass4 ,west ,willson ,west ,willson ,co41 #aheh -- 7fig4 #abg7 ,elyria1 ,ohio ,a4 ,b4 ,wilson ,e4 ,e4 ,lee ,co41 ,new #ahea #aheb 7fig4 #bc7 ,york1 ,n4,y4 ,a4 ,b4 ,wilson's ,wheeler1 ,wilson1 ,co41 late #ahea #ahef patent seaming ,watertown1 ,n4,y4 lathe ,later ,wheeler ,wheeler ,wilson ,mfg4 #ahef #aije and ,wilson ,co41 ,bridgeport1 ,conn4 7fig4 #bf1 #bg1 ,singer ,co41 ,bridgeport1 #aije #aijg #abh1 #abi7 ,conn4 ,white 7fig4 #acj7 ,white ,sewing ,machine #ahgf ,a ,co41 ,cleveland1 ,ohio ,whitehill ,whitehill ,mfg4 ,co41 ca4 #ahge after #ahhf ,milwaukee1 ,wis4 ,whitney ,whitney ,sewing ,machine ca4 #ahgb ca4 #ahhj ,co41 ,paterson1 ,n4,j4 ,whitney ,lyons ,whitney ,lyons 7a ca4 #ahei ca4 #ahfe machine based on the #ahed patent of ,t4 ,e4 ,weed7 ,wickersham ,butterfield ,stevens #ahec -- ,mfg4 ,co41 ,boston1 ,mass4 ,willcox ,gibbs ,willcox ,gibbs ,sewing #aheg ,a 7figs4 #ci1 #aca7 ,machine ,co41 ,new ,york1 ,n4,y4 ,williams ,orvis ,williams ,orvis ,sewing ca4 #ahei after #ahfj ,machine ,co41 ,boston1 ,mass4 ,wilson 7fig4 #hi7 ,wilson 7,w4,g47 ,sewing ca4#ahfg after #ahhe 7see ,buckeye7 ,machine ,co41 ,cleveland1 ,ohio ,windsor 7one thread7 ,vermont ,arms ,co41 #ahef #aheh ,windsor1 ,vt4 ,windsor ,lamson1 ,goodnow ,yale1 #ahei #ahfa 7see ,clark's ,windsor1 ,vt4 ,revolving ,looper7 ,name ,unknown ,john ,w4 ,beane #ahec -- ,henry ,brind #ahfj -- ,garfield ,sewing ,machine #ahha -- ,co4 ,geneva ,sewing ,machine #ahhj -- ,co4 ,gove ,howard #ahee -- ,charles ,w4 ,howland1 ca4 #ahfj -- ,wilmington1 ,del4 ,miles ,greenwood ,co41 ca4 #ahfa -- ,cincinnati1 ,ohio ,hood1 ,batelle ,co4 #ahed #ahed ,wells ,haynes #ahed #ahed ,wilson ,h4 ,smith1 ca4 #ahfj -- ,birmingham1 ,conn4 ,a ,still in existence4 ,illustration3 ,figure #fh4--;,,american ,,buttonhole1 ,overseaming ,sewing ,machine of about #ahgj4 ,using serial numbers1 these machines can be dated approximately as follows3 #a-ggib1 #ahfi2 #ggic-bbcff1 #ahgj2 #bbcfg-dbdhh1 #ahga2 #dbdhi-fadai1 #ahgb2 #fadbj-gefjb1 #ahgc2 #gefjc-hiacb1 #ahgd2 #hiacc-ajceci1 #ahge2 and #ajcedj-abadgg1 #ahgf4 ,figures are not available for the years from #ahgg to #ahhf4 7,smithsonian photo #dfiec-;,e47 ,illustration3 ,figure #fi4--7,,new7 ,,american ,,sewing ,,machine of about #ahgd4 ,illustration is from a contemporary advertising brochure4 7,smithsonian photo #ccejg47 ,illustration3 ,figure #gj4--;,,american ,,magnetic ,,sewing ,,machine1 #ahed4 ,machines of this type were manufactured for only two years under the patent of ,thomas ,c4 ,thompson1 ,march #bi1 #ahec1 and later under the patents of ,samuel ,j4 ,parker1 ,april #aa1 #ahed1 and ,simon ,coon1 ,may #i1 #ahed4 ,on ,september #cj1 #ahec1 ,elias ,howe listed receipts of #ajjj from the ,american ,magnetic ,sewing ,machine ,co4 for patent infringement4 ,the machines manufactured after that date carry the ,howe name and #ahdf patent date to show proper licensing4 ,judging by ,howe's usual license fee of #be per machine1 about #dj machines were manufactured prior to ,september #ahec4 ,the company was reported to have made about #fjj machines in #ahed before it went out of business4 ,the only ,american ,magnetic machine known to be in existence is in the collection of the ,northern ,indiana ,historical ,society at ,south ,bend1 ,indiana4 7,photo courtesy of the ,northern ,indiana ,historical ,society47 ,illustration3 ,figure #ga4--;,,atlantic ,,sewing ,,machine1 #ahfi4 ,this machine is typical of the many varieties manufactured for a very short time in the #ahfjs and #ahgjs4 ,it is about the size of the average hand-turned variety1 #h by #aj inches1 but lighter in weight4 ,the frame design was the patent of ,l4 ,porter1 ,may #aa1 #ahfi1 and the mechanism was patented by ,alonzo ,porter1 ,february #h1 #ahgj4 ,the latter patent model bears the painted legend ,atlantic and is stamped ,aprl #a1 #fi1 indicating that it was probably already in commercial production4 ,this date possibly may refer also to ,l4 ,porter's design patent1 since actual date of issue was usually later than date of application4 7,smithsonian photo #dhcbi-;,a47 ,illustration3 ,figure #gb4--;,a4 ,,bartholf ,,sewing ,,machine1 #ahec4 ,abraham ,bartholf of ,new ,york began manufacturing ,blodgett ,lerow machines 7see fig4 #bj7 about #ahej2 the style and mechanics of these machines1 however1 were primarily those of the ,blodgett ,lerow patent as manufactured by ,o4 ,c4 ,phelps and ,goddard1 ,rice ,co4 ,for this reason they are considered ,blodgett ,lerow--not ,bartholf--machines4 ,the true ,bartholf machine evolved when the manufacturer substituted ,howe's reciprocating shuttle for the rotary shuttle of the ,blodgett ,lerow machine1 continuing to manufacture the machine in his own adapted style4 ,bartholf manufactured reciprocating-shuttle machines as early as #ahec1 and his was one of the first companies licensed by ,howe4 ,all ,bartholf machines licensed under ,howe's patent carry the ,howe name and patent date4 ,they are sometimes mistakenly referred to as ,howe machines1 but they are no more ,howe machines than those manufactured by ,wheeler ,wilson1 ,singer1 or many others4 ,on ,april #f1 #aheh1 ,bartholf was granted a patent for an improvement of the shuttle carrier4 ,he continued to manufacture sewing machines under the name ,bartholf ,sewing ,machine ,co4 until about #ahfe4 ,using serial numbers1 ,bartholf machines can be dated approximately as follows3 ,serial ,number ,year #a-bj #ahej #ba-ej #ahea #ea-ajj #aheb #aja-bce #ahec #bcf-bij #ahed #bia-cba #ahee #cbb-cef #ahef #ceg-chg #aheg #chh-eij #aheh #eia-accg #ahei ,no record of the number of machines produced by ,bartholf after #ahei is available4 ,the ,bartholf machine illustrated bears the serial number #abh and the inscription ,a4 ,bartholf ,manfr41 ,,ny--,patented ,sept4 #ahdf ,e4 ,howe1 ,jr4 ,this machine is in the collection of the ,baltimore ,county ,historical ,society4 ,note the close similarity between it and the #ahej ,blodgett ,lerow machine manufactured by ,bartholf4 7,photo courtesy of the ,baltimore ,county ,historical ,society47 ,illustration3 ,figure #gc4--;,,bartlett ,,sewing ,,machine1 #ahfg4 ,the ,bartlett machine was first manufactured in #ahff under the ,january #ca1 #ahfe1 and ,october #aj1 #ahfe1 patents of ,joseph ,w4 ,bartlett4 ,the machines were made by ,goodspeed ,wyman for the ,bartlett ,co4 and were so marked4 ,the inventor received another patent on ,april #g1 #ahfh1 and later machines carry this third date also4 ,although the first few hundred machines did not bear the dates of patents held by the ,combination1 before the end of the first year of production ,bartlett was paying royalties4 ,he continued to manufacture sewing machines until the early seventies when he converted to the manufacturing of street lamps4 ,using serial numbers1 ,bartlett's machines can be dated approximately as follows3 #a-ajjj1 #ahff2 #ajja-cabf1 #ahfg2 #cabg-81 #ahfh4 ,there is no record of serial numbers for the succeeding years4 7,smithsonian photo #deebd-;,g47 ,illustration3 ,figure #gd4--;,,bartram ,,fanton ,,sewing ,,machine1 #ahfg4 ,these machines were first manufactured in #ahfg under the patents of ,w4 ,b4 ,bartram1 notably his patent of ,january #a1 #ahfg4 ,three machines were exhibited at ,the ,eleventh ,exhibition of the ,massachusetts ,charitable ,mechanics ,association in #ahfi where they were awarded a bronze medal4 ,they were compared favorably to the ,willcox ,gibbs machine 7see fig4 #ci71 which they resembled4 ,bartram received additional patents in the early seventies and also manufactured lockstitch machines4 ,using serial numbers1 machines may be approximately dated as follows3 #a-bieh1 #ahfg2 #biei-cieh1 #ahfh2 #ciei-dieh1 #ahfi2 #diei-eieh1 #ahgj2 #eiei-fifb1 #ahga2 #fifc-gifa1 #ahgb2 #gifb-hifa1 #ahgc2 and #hifb-ibaa1 #ahgd4 7,smithsonian photo ,p#fcaih47 ,illustration3 ,figure #ge4--;,,beckwith ,,sewing ,,machine1 #ahga4 ,among the inventors whose patent claims were to produce a cheap and effective sewing machine was ,william ,g4 ,beckwith4 ,his machine was first manufactured by ,barlow ,son1 and it realized considerable success in the few years of its production4 ,the earliest model was operated like a pair of scissors or with a cord and ring as illustrated4 ,beckwith later added a hand crank4 ,the machine was purchased in ,crewe1 ,cheshire1 ,england2 it is stamped ,pat4 ,april #ah1 #ga by ,wm4 ,g4 ,beckwith1 ,foreign ,pats4 ,secured1 ,barlow ,son ,manuf4 ,n4,y41 serial number #gjf4 ,by #ahgd the machines were marked ,beckwith ,s4,m4 ,co4 and two #ahgb patent dates were added4 ,using serial numbers1 machines may be dated approximately as follows3 #a-cejj1 #ahga2 #ceja-gejj1 #ahgb2 #geja-abejj1 #ahgc2 #abeja-ahjjj1 #ahgd2 #ahjja-bcjjj1 #ahge2 #bcjja-81 #ahgf4 7,smithsonian photo #dfiec-;,c47 ,illustration3 ,figure #gf4--;,,boudoir ,,sewing ,,machine1 #aheh4 ,this machine1 a single-thread1 chainstitch model was based on the patents of ,daniel ,harris1 dated ,june #i1 #aheg1 ,june #af1 #aheg1 and ,october #e1 #aheh4 ,manufactured primarily by ,bennett in ,chicago in #ahei1 it also may have been produced in the ,east1 although no manufacturer's name can be found4 ,in #ahfj1 the ,boudoir1 also called ,harris's ,patent sewing machine1 was exhibited at the ,massachusetts ,charitable ,mechanics ,association ,exhibition where it won a silver medal for its combination of parts1 its beauty and simplicity1 together with its ease of operation4 ,at this time the machine was described as making a double lock stitch 7another name for the double chainstitch74 ,it was also described as having been before the public for some time and combining the improvements of others for which the parties pay license4 ,the machine head was positioned on the stand similarly to that of the ,west ,willson 7fig4 #abg7 and stitched from left to right4 ,it is not known exactly how many of these machines were made or how long they were in vogue4 ,manufacture1 although probably ceasing in the #ahfjs1 is known to have been discontinued before #ahha1 when a list of obsolete sewing machines was published in ,the ,sewing ,machine ,news4 7,smithsonian photo ,p#fcaii47 ,illustration3 ,figure #gg4--7,,new7 ,,buckeye ,,sewing ,,machine of about #ahge4 ,the ,buckeye machine was one of several manufactured by ,w4 ,g4 ,wilson of ,cleveland1 ,ohio4 ,it was licensed under ,johnson's extended patent of ,april #ah1 #ahfg4 ,although it was small and hand turned1 it used two threads and a shuttle to form a lockstitch4 ,the machine was sufficiently popular for ,wilson to introduce an improved model in the early #ahgjs1 which he called the ,new ,buckeye4 ,w4 ,g4 ,wilson continued to manufacture sewing machines until about the mid-eighties1 although the ,buckeye machines were discontinued in the seventies4 7,smithsonian photo #deebd-;,a47 ,illustration3 ,figure #gh4--;,,centennial ,,sewing ,,machine1 #ahgf4 ,the ,centennial machine was basically a ,mc,lean and ,hooper sewing machine which was renamed to take advantage of the coming ,centennial celebration4 ,it was based on the patents of ,j4 ,n4 ,mc,lean1 ,march #cj1 #ahfi1 and ,august #b1 #ahgj1 and made a two-thread chainstitch4 ,only about five hundred ,centennial machines were manufactured in #ahgc1 but by #ahgf over three thousand had been constructed4 ,the machines were advertised on white circulars which were printed in red and blue1 and engraved with two women sewing1 one by hand1 labeled ,sewing in #aggf1 and one at a ,centennial sewing machine1 labeled ,sewing in #ahgf4 ,there is no record that the machines were made after #ahgf4 7,smithsonian photo #dhbaf-,t47 ,illustration3 ,figure #gi4--;,,clark',s ,revolving-,looper double-thread sewing machine1 #ahfj4 ,this machine was manufactured by ,lamson1 ,goodnow1 ,yale of ,windsor1 ,vermont4 ,it was an attempt to improve on the combined ideas of the ,grover and ,baker machine1 the ,nettleton ,raymond machine1 and the earlier single-thread ,windsor machine4 ,the improvements were made and patented by ,edwin ,clark on ,december #f1 #ahei4 ,widely advertised1 the machines sold for #ce with a foot-power table4 ,they could also be operated by hand4 ,over three thousand were manufactured and sold1 and preparations were being made to continue manufacture of the earlier single-thread ,windsor1 originally made by the company's predecessor1 ,vermont ,arms ,co41 when the ,civil ,war broke out4 ,a flood of arms orders arrived1 and the sewing-machine manufacture was discontinued early in the summer of #ahfa4 ,the sewing-machine equipment and business was sold to ,grout ,white of ,massachusetts4 7,smithsonian photo #dhbaf47 ,illustration3 ,figure #hj4--;,,du ,,laney ,,sewing ,,machine of about #ahgb4 ,most of the small1 simple1 chainstitch sewing machines of this period were constructed so that they could either be turned by hand or set into a treadle-powered table4 ,du ,laney's ,little ,monitor1 manufactured for only a few years1 was based on the patents of ,g4,l4 ,du ,laney1 ,july #c1 #ahff1 and ,may #b1 #ahga4 ,it was a two-thread1 chainstitch machine powered only by a foot treadle4 ,by simple adjustment1 the machine could also make the cablestitch and the lockstitch4 7,smithsonian photo #dhbba-;,c47 ,illustration3 ,figure #ha4--;,,eureka ,,sewing ,,machine1 #ahei4 ,an example of the many short-lived types of which no written record can be found1 this particular machine was used as a patent model for certain minor improvements in #ahei4 ,it has the name ,eureka painted on the top and the following inscription incised on the baster plate3 ,eureka ,shuttle ,s4 ,m4 ,co4 #dfi ,broadway1 ,n4,y4 ,although it is a shuttle machine1 it carries no patent dates and was not included in the ,howe royalty records4 ,neither is it listed in the obsolescence list published in #ahha4 ,the company probably could not pay its royalty fees and was forced out of business almost immediately4 ,if this machine had not been used as a patent model1 no record of the company's existence might remain4 ,it should be noted that as in most shuttle machines the head was meant to be set into a treadle-powered table4 ,since most tables are very similar1 they are not required for identification4 7,smithsonian photo #dhcbh-;,c47 ,illustration3 ,figure #hb4--,m4 ,,finkle ,,sewing ,,machine1 #aheg4 ,the ,m4 ,finkle machines were manufactured in #ahef and #aheg4 ,sometime before or about #ahei1 the inventor1 ,milton ,finkle1 formed a partnership and the machines were subsequently called ,m4 ,finkle ,lyon and later simply ,finkle ,lyon4 ,in #ahei the machine was awarded a silver medal by the ,american ,institute for producing superior manufacturing and family lockstitch sewing machines4 ,it also won a silver medal in ,boston in #ahfj at the ,massachusetts ,charitable ,mechanics ,association ,exhibition4 ,although the name of the machine was changed to ,victor in #ahfg1 the company name remained ,finkle ,lyon until about #ahgb when it was changed to ,victor also4 ,victor machines were manufactured until about #ahij4 ,machines can be dated by their serial number approximately as follows3 ,serial ,number ,year #a-bjj #ahef #bja-dej #aheg #dea-gjj #aheh #gja-iej #ahei #iea-aejj #ahfj #aeja-cjjj #ahfa #cjja-ejjj #ahfb #ejja-gjjj #ahfc #gjja-ijjj #ahfd #ijja-aajjj #ahfe #aajja-acjjj #ahff #acjja-aedij #ahfg #aedia-agdij #ahfh #agdia-ahhcj #ahfi #ahhca-babej #ahgj #babea-bhhij #ahga #bhhia-djgij #ahgb #djgia-dhbdj #ahgc #dhbda-ececj #ahgd #ececa-eifce #ahge #eifcf-feche #ahgf ,no estimates are available for the years #ahgg to #ahij4 7,smithsonian photo #dhbaf-;,a47 ,illustration ---- ,illustration3 ,figure #hc4--;,,florence ,,sewing ,,machine4 ,the ,florence machine was based on the patents of ,leander ,w4 ,langdon1 whose first patent was obtained in #ahee4 ,langdon sewing machines were manufactured by the inventor for a few years4 ,it was his patent of ,march #bj1 #ahfj1 that was the immediate forerunner of the ,florence machine1 whose name was derived from the city of manufacture1 ,florence1 ,massachusetts4 ,the ,howe royalty records of #ahfj listed the ,florence ,sewing ,machine ,co4 as one that took out a license that year4 ,langdon's patent of ,july #ad1 #ahfc1 was incorporated into the machines manufactured after that date2 however1 the date is always incorrectly stamped ,july #ah1 #ahfc4 ,in #ahfe1 the machine won a silver medal at the ,tenth ,exhibition of the ,massachusetts ,charitable ,mechanics ,association4 ,over #ajj1jjj ,florence machines were manufactured by #ahgj4 ,about #ahhj the company changed the name of the machine to ,crown4 ,improvements led to the name ,new ,crown by #ahhe4 ,about this time the right to use the name ,florence for a sewing machine was purchased by a midwestern firm for an entirely different machine4 ,in #ahhe the ,florence company began to manufacture lamp stoves and heating stoves and shortly thereafter they discontinued the manufacture of sewing machines4 ,using the serial numbers1 ,florence machines can be dated approximately as follows3 ,serial ,number ,year #a-ejj #ahfj #eja-bjjj #ahfa #bjja-hjjj #ahfb #hjja-bjjjj #ahfc #bjjja-cejjj #ahfd #cejja-ejjjj #ahfe #ejjja-fjjjj #ahff #fjjja-gjecd #ahfg #gjece-hbecd #ahfh #hbece-ifaie #ahfi #ifaif-aachee #ahgj #aachef-abihjb #ahga #abihjc-adeeib #ahgb #adeeic-aedeee #ahgc #aedeef-afjjgb #ahgd #afjjgc-afdifd #ahge #afdife-afgidb #ahgf ,no record of the number of machines produced each year between #ahgg and #ahhe is available4 ,the machine shown here1 serial number #diaca1 was manufactured in #ahfe4 ,it is stamped with the following patent dates3 ,oct4 #cj1 #ahee1 ,mar4 #bj1 #ahfj1 ,jan4 #bb1 #ahfa1 and ,july #ah1 #ahfc and the ,wilson patent date ,nov4 #ab1 #ahej4 ,the machines from #ahfj-ahfc are marked with the early ,langdon patents1 excluding the #ahfc one1 and they have the additional patent dates of ,howe and others3 ,sept4 #aj1 #ahdf1 ,nov4 #ab1 #ahej1 ,aug4 #ab1 #ahea1 ,may #cj1 #ahed1 ,dec4 #ai1 #ahed1 ,nov4 #d1 #ahef4 7,smithsonian photo #deegb-;,a47 ,illustration3 ,figure #hd4--;,,globe ,,sewing ,,machine4 ,j4 ,g4 ,folsom received two design patents in #ahfd1 one on ,march #a for a spool holder and one on ,may #ag for the basic style of the machine4 ,also in the same year1 he was awarded a mechanical patent for an adjustment in the lower looper that would accommodate a change in needle size4 ,using these patents1 he manufactured a single-thread1 chainstitch machine1 the ,globe4 ,folsom also exhibited his machines at the ,tenth ,exhibition of the ,massachusetts ,charitable ,mechanics ,association in #ahfe4 ,the ,globe attracted particular attention and was awarded a silver medal4 ,in #ahff ,folsom devised a new treadle attachment for hand-operated machines2 the invention was featured in ,scientific ,american1 volume #ad1 number #ag1 with a ,globe machine4 ,folsom again exhibited at the ,massachusetts ,mechanics exhibition in #ahfi4 ,in addition to an improved single-thread ,globe1 he also showed a double-thread1 elastic-stitch 7double chainstitch7 machine for which he received a silver medal4 ,folsom machines were manufactured until #ahga2 #bhj machines were manufactured in that year4 ,the ,globe sewing machine illustrated is stamped ,j4 ,g4 ,folsom1 ,maker1 ,winchendon1 ,mass4 ,patented ,april #bh1 #ahfc ,ketchum's patent1 ,mar4 #a1 #ahfd4 ,may #ag1 #ahfd4 ,the machine was manufactured before ,november #ahfd or it would include the patent for the lower loop adjustment4 7,smithsonian photo #dhbaf-;,h47 ,,note3 ,at least five sewing machines1 those in figures #hd through #hi1 are similar enough in appearance to cause some confusion1 because their basic design stems from a short pillar4 ,illustration3 ,figure #he4--;,,globe ,,sewing ,,machine with treadle attachment as illustrated in ,scientific ,american1 ,april #ba1 #ahff4 7,smithsonian photo #dhbba-;,a47 ,illustration3 ,figure #hf4--;,,empire ,,sewing ,,machine1 late #ahfjs4 ,although an ,empire ,sewing ,machine ,co4 existed in ,new ,york in the #ahfjs 7the predecessor of the ,remington-,empire ,co471 it is not known whether this machine was manufactured by that same company1 which was primarily concerned with producing shuttle machines4 ,this chainstitch machine is marked ,empire ,co41 ,patented ,april #bc1 #ahfc1 the date referring again to ,ketchum's patent4 ,it is very similar to ,folsom's ,globe1 except that it has claw feet rather than a closed base2 the painted designs on the base of both are almost identical to those on the ,monitor4 ,its spool holder1 mounted in reverse1 is a crude imitation of the ,folsom patent4 ,the ,empire machines were probably manufactured about the same time as the ,wilson machine4 7,photo courtesy of ,the ,henry ,ford ,museum and ,greenfield ,village1 ,dearborn1 ,michigan47 ,illustration3 ,figure #hg4--;,,atwater ,,sewing ,,machine1 #aheh4 ,atwater machines1 based on the patent of ,b4 ,atwater1 issued ,may #e1 #aheg1 were manufactured from #aheg to about #ahfj4 ,the machine illustrated1 which is designed to be operated by a hand-turned wheel1 has an upper forked dog feed1 and its horizontally supported spool is directly over the stitching area4 ,like the others1 it has a striated pillar and claw feet4 ,the manufacturer is unknown4 7,smithsonian photo ,p#fcbjj47 ,illustration3 ,figure #hh4--,,monitor ,,sewing ,,machine1 #ahfj-ahff4 ,the ,monitor machines of this style were not marked by their manufacturers1 ,shaw ,clark of ,biddeford1 ,maine4 ,later the company was forced by the ,combination to pay a royalty1 so it changed the style and began marking its machines with the company name and patent dates 7see fig4 #aai for copy of seal74 ,the ,monitor1 which employed the conventional vertical spindle to hold the spool of thread1 had a top feed in the form of a walking presser4 ,its striated pillar was similar to that of the ,atwater machine1 and both featured the same claw feet and urn-like top4 ,unlike the ,atwater1 however1 the ,monitor had a double drive from the hand-turned wheel1 which was grooved for operation with belt and treadle4 7,smithsonian photo #ccdeh47 ,illustration3 ,figure #hi4--,,wilson ,,sewing ,,machine1 late #ahfjs to early #ahgjs4 ,in addition to the ,buckeye 7see fig4 #gg71 ,w4 ,g4 ,wilson manufactured several other styles of sewing machines4 ,this one1 a combination of the varying styles of the earlier pillar machine has even duplicated the general style of the spool holder patented by ,folsom4 ,the pillar is not striated1 but the machine does repeat the claw feet of the ,atwater and ,monitor machines4 ,wilson machines are usually marked ,wilson ,sewing ,mach4 ,manuf'g ,co4 ,cleveland1 ,ohio1 ,ketchum's ,patent ,april #bh1 #ahfc4 ,the latter name and_/or patent date are found on many of the machines of this general construction4 ,the patent is that issued to ,stephen ,c4 ,ketchum for his method of converting rotary motion into reciprocal motion4 7,photo courtesy of ,the ,henry ,ford ,museum and ,greenfield ,village1 ,dearborn1 ,michigan47 ,illustration3 ,figure #ij4--;,,grant ,,brothers ,,sewing ,,machine1 #ahfg4 ,this machine was one of several styles that utilized ,raymond's #ahfa patented chainstitch method4 ,this machine1 however1 used an under feed rather than a top feed4 ,neither a name nor a date appears on the machine4 ,in the ,june #be1 #aijg1 issue of the ,sewing ,machine ,times it was called the ,common ,sense machine1 but detailed research has turned up no evidence to substantiate this name4 ,however1 a dated brochure advertising the ,grant ,brothers machine and showing a model identical to that illustrated in the ,sewing ,machine ,times has been found4 ,the brochure states that the machine made an elastic lockstitch2 this was not a true lockstitch1 however1 but was in fact a simple chainstitch4 ,grant ,brothers sold their machine1 which had silver-plated mountings1 for #ah2 the price included hemmer1 ,barnum's self-sewer1 oilcan1 screwdriver1 clamp1 gauge1 and four silver needles4 ,an additional charge of #ab was made for a table and treadle4 ,compared to other chainstitch machines the price was high1 and the company was short-lived4 7,smithsonian photo #fjgid-;,e47 ,illustration3 ,figure #ia4--;,,greenman ,,and ,,true ,,sewing ,,machine4 ,this lockstitch machine based on ,s4 ,h4 ,roper's patent of #aheg was manufactured at ,norwich1 ,connecticut1 from #ahei to #ahfa by ,cyrus ,b4 ,true1 the inventor1 and ,jared ,f4 ,greenman1 ,true's financial partner4 ,licensed by the ,combination and carrying the ,howe patent date1 the machine had obvious merit3 it was strong1 well made--a good family machine4 ,exhibited at the ,ninth ,exhibition of the ,massachusetts ,charitable ,mechanics ,association in ,september #ahfj1 it received a bronze medal4 7,at this time the company was listed as ,morse and ,true--the inventor had obviously taken on a second financial backer47 ,unfortunately1 the best market for the machine lay in the ,south1 and the outbreak of the ,civil ,war made collections impossible4 ,this greatly retarded business and finally drove the firm into bankruptcy4 ,in all1 it is doubtful that more than one thousand machines were produced in the three years of manufacture4 ,the machine illustrated is marked ,greenman and ,true and bears the serial number #djb2 it was probably manufactured early in #ahfj4 7,smithsonian photo #dhbaf-,n47 ,illustration3 ,figure #ib4--;,,grover ,,and ,,baker ,,sewing ,,machine4 ,the ,grover and ,baker machine was one of the more popular machines from the #ahejs until the early #ahgjs4 ,the company produced iron-frame machines1 fine cabinet models1 and portables 7figs4 #ce and #cf74 ,their machines may be dated by serial number approximately as follows3 ,serial ,number ,year #a-ejj #ahea #eja-ajjj #aheb #ajja-afeh #ahec #afei-chic #ahed #chid-ejch #ahee #ejci-gjjj #ahef #gjja-ajfha #aheg #ajfhb-aegeb #aheh #aegec-bfjcc #ahei #bfjcd-ddhfi #ahfj #ddhgj-fcgje #ahfa #fcgjf-hbfda #ahfb #hbfdb-ajadgg #ahfc #ajadgh-abjcac #ahfd #abjcad-aciadh #ahfe #aciadi-aeghhf #ahff #aeghhg-aijhhf #ahfg #aijhhg-bbehhf #ahfh #bbehhg-bfajjd #ahfi #bfajje-cchdjg #ahgj #cchdjh-chibdf #ahga #chibdg-ddabeg #ahgb #ddabeh-dggdcg #ahgc #dggdch-digdch #ahgd #digdci-eabdci #ahge 7,smithsonian photo #deeac-;,b1 an engraving of a ,grover and ,baker sewing machine from an advertising brochure of about #ahgj47 ,illustration3 ,figure #ic4--;,,hancock ,,sewing ,,machine1 #ahfg4 ,one of the many inventors who turned his talents to inventing and producing a mechanically simple and cheaper machine was ,henry ,j4 ,hancock4 ,his #ahfg machine is only about six inches wide2 it uses a tambour-type needle1 pulling a loop of thread from below the stitching surface4 7,smithsonian photo ,p#fcaig47 ,illustration3 ,figure #id4--;,,hancock ,,sewing ,,machine1 #ahfh4 ,hancock in #ahfh received both a design patent and a mechanical patent now using the eye-pointed needle and a hook to form the chainstitch4 ,the design was an open framework circle with a mirror mounted in front of the table clamp4 ,the purpose of the designated looking glass was decorative only4 ,the ,hancock machines were only manufactured for a few years4 ,they measure #aj-a_/b inches in width1 slightly larger than the earlier machine4 7,smithsonian photo #dhcbh-,m47 ,illustration3 ,figure #ie4--;,a4,c4 ,,herron',s ,,patent ,,sewing ,,machine1 #aheh4 ,the manufacturer of this machine is not known1 but the machine was based on the patent of ,abial ,c4 ,herron issued ,august #d1 #aheg4 ,all the machines carry a small heart-shaped plate just above the needle descent bearing the patentee's name and the patent date4 ,the patent covered an improvement in the method of making the chainstitch4 ,the machines were provided with a hand crank1 but were also meant to be operated by a belt and treadle4 ,no records of the extent of manufacture of this machine have been found4 ,this machine head measures #ad inches in width1 about standard size4 7,smithsonian photo #dhcbi-;,j47 ,illustration3 ,figure #if4--;,a4 ,b4 ,,howe ,,sewing ,,machine of about #ahfj4 7,smithsonian photo #deebe-;,c47 ,figures #if1 #ig1 and #ih4--,,the ,,howe ,,machines4 ,it is difficult for many to believe that the stamped legend ,elias ,howe patent1 ,sept4 #aj1 #ahdf does not certify that a machine is an original ,howe4 ,although ,elias ,howe was granted a patent for the lockstitch machine in #ahdf1 he did not establish a sewing-machine factory for about twenty years4 ,early in the #ahejs and later through the ,combination1 however1 he licensed others to make machines using his patent4 ,these machines bore that patent date for which a royalty was being paid4 ,among his early licensees was his elder brother ,amasa who organized the ,howe ,sewing ,machine ,co4 in #ahed4 ,the ,amasa ,howe machines were very good ones1 and in #ahfb ,amasa won the prize medal at the ,london ,international ,exhibition4 ,this immensely increased the popularity of the machine and ,elias offered to join ,amasa by building a large factory at ,bridgeport1 ,connecticut1 to fill the increasing demand for more machines4 ,the machines produced at ,bridgeport1 however1 although imitating the ,amasa ,howe machines1 proved inferior in quality4 ,amasa found that1 rather than helping his business reputation1 his brother's efforts were hurting him1 and he severed business relations with ,elias4 ,because of their brief association1 the #ahfb prize medal awarded to ,a4 ,b4 ,howe was sometimes credited to ,elias4 ,the latter did receive awards for his patent1 but never for his manufactured machines4 ,when the two brothers dissolved their joint venture1 ,elias attempted to call his new company the ,howe ,sewing ,machine ,co41 but ,amasa's claim that this name had been his exclusive property for many years was upheld by the courts4 ,elias then omitted the word ,sewing and called his company simply the ,howe ,machine ,co4 ,after ,elias died in #ahfg1 the company was run by his sons-in-law1 the ,stockwell brothers4 ,to distinguish their machines from those of ,a4 ,b4 ,howe1 they marked each machine with a brass medallion picturing the head and flowing locks of ,elias ,howe4 ,they also continued to advertise their machine as the original ,howe4 ,in about #ahgc1 ,b4 ,p4 ,howe1 ,amasa's son1 sold the ,howe ,sewing ,machine ,co4 to the ,stockwell brothers1 who continued to manufacture ,howe machines until #ahhf4 ,the machines of the ,a4 ,b4 ,howe ,sewing ,machine ,co4 may be dated by serial number approximately as follows3 ,serial ,number ,year #a-fj #ahed #fa-aac #ahee #aad-aff #ahef #afg-bii #aheg #cjj-dgh #aheh #dgi-acii #ahei ,no figures are available for #ahfj-ahgj1 but #bj1jea machines were manufactured in #ahga4 ,the machines of the ,elias ,howe ,machine ,co4 are not believed to have begun with serial number #a1 and no figures are available for #ahfe-ahfg4 ,after that1 the machines may be dated by serial number approximately as follows3 ,serial ,number ,year #aa1jjj-df1jjj #ahfh #df1jja-ia1hdc #ahfi #ia1hdd-afg1jjj #ahgj #afg1jja-cja1jaj #ahga #cja1jaa-ddf1jaj #ahgb #ddf1jaa-ecf1jaj #ahgc #ecf1jaa-ega1jaj #ahgd #ega1jaa-eif1jaj #ahge #eif1jaa-gje1cjd #ahgf ,no figures are available for #ahgg-ahhf4 ,illustration3 ,figure #ig4--;,,advertising ,,brochure distributed by ,e4 ,howe during the brothers' brief partnership2 the machines are basically ,a4 ,b4 ,howe machines1 #ahfc4 7,smithsonian photo #dicgc-;,a47 ,illustration3 ,figure #ih4--;,,howe 7,,stockwell ,,brothers7 ,,machine1 #ahgj4 7,smithsonian photo #deegb-;,e47 ,illustration3 ,figure #ii4--,,patent ,,model ,,of ,,christopher ,,hodgkins1 ,november #b1 #aheb1 assigned to ,nehemiah ,hunt4 7,smithsonian photo #cdeea47 ,figures #ii1 #ajj1 and #aja4--,,the ,n4 ,,hunt 7later1 in #ahef1 ,hunt ,webster and finally in #aheh ,ladd and ,webster7 sewing machine was based on the patents of ,christopher ,hodgkins1 ,november #b1 #aheb1 and ,may #i1 #ahed1 both of which were assigned to ,nehemiah ,hunt4 ,first manufactured in #ahec1 the machine1 which closely resembled the ,hodgkins' patent1 won a silver medal at the exhibition of the ,massachusetts ,charitable ,mechanics ,association that same year4 ,in #ahef ,hunt took a partner1 and the company became ,hunt ,webster4 ,an interesting account of this company appeared as a feature article in ,ballou's ,pictorial1 ,july #e1 #ahef1 where it was reported that the ,north ,american ,shoe ,company have over fifty of the latest improved machines1 represented in these drawings fig4 #ca1 now running4444 ,the article also estimated that a #ee-million dollar increase in shoe manufacturing in ,massachusetts in #ahee was due to the sewing machine4 ,in #ahef the ,hunt ,webster machine again won a silver medal at the exhibition4 ,very late in #aheh the company became ,ladd1 ,webster1 ,co4 and continued to manufacture both family and manufacturing sewing machines until the mid-#ahfjs4 ,the approximate date of manufacture can be determined by serial number3 ,serial ,number ,year #a-ajj #ahec #aja-cfh #ahed #cfi-ddb #ahee #ddc-fbb #ahef #fbc-ajge #aheg #ajgf-aefe #aheh #aeff-ccec #ahei ,no figures are available for the #ahfjs4 ,illustration3 ,figure #ajj4--,,right3 ,,hunt ,,webster sewing machine of about #ahee1 serial number #dad4 7,smithsonian photo #dhbaf-,v47 ,illustration3 ,figure #aja4--,,ladd1 ,,webster ,,co4 sewing machine of about #aheh1 ,boston1 serial number #adig4 7,smithsonian photo #dfiec47 ,illustration3 ,figure #ajb4--;,,improved ,,common ,,sense sewing machine of about #ahgj4 ,this machine is so very similar to the ,new ,england machines in its feed1 threading1 looping mechanism1 and in its general design1 that it is sometimes mistaken for the earlier ,new ,england machines 7see figs4 #aab and #aac74 ,dating from the early #ahgjs1 the ,improved ,common ,sense machine is about #aj inches in width1 two inches larger than the ,new ,england machine4 ,the spool holder is similar to ,folsom's patented design1 but is less refined4 ,a page from an advertising brochure of the period verifies the name of the machine1 but does not identify the manufacturer4 ,there are no patent dates or identifying names or numbers on the machine illustrated4 ,although the ,empire ,co4 also produced a machine of this style1 their models are marked with their name and with ,ketchum's patent date1 ,april #bc1 #ahfc4 ,of the several styles of machine using the ,raymond looper1 this type seems to account for the largest volume manufactured1 as evidenced by the proportionately higher number of examples still extant4 7,smithsonian photo #dhcbh-;,e47 ,illustration3 ,figure #ajc4--;,,johnson ,,sewing ,,machine1 #aheg4 ,another of the all-but-forgotten manufacturers of the #ahejs was ,emery1 ,houghton ,co41 who constructed the ,a4,f4 ,johnson machines4 ,examination of existing machines indicates that they were manufactured in #ahef and #aheg1 and possibly a little longer4 ,this one from #aheg bears the serial number #fbd1 so we know that several hundred were manufactured4 ,the head is ornately attractive1 slightly reminiscent of ,wheeler ,wilson models1 and of standard size4 7,smithsonian photo #dhcbi-;,b47 ,illustration3 ,figure #ajd4--,,lady ,,sewing ,,machine of about #ahei4 ,the contemporary name of this machine is unknown4 ,the unusual design of the head1 or main support1 is based in part on the design patent1 number #baf1 of ,isaac ,f4 ,baker1 issued ,april #aj1 #ahdi1 for a new and useful design1 for ornamenting furniture1 called ,cora ,munro who was a character in ,james ,fenimore ,cooper's ,last of the ,mohicans4 ,the design shows a female figure wearing a riding dress and hat that is ornamented with a plume and a bow4 ,her right hand holds a riding stick and the left1 her skirt4 ,trunks of trees and foliage complete the ,baker design1 which is known to have been used for girandoles of the period4 ,a companion design was also patented by ,baker1 number #bae1 which is in the form of a man in military costume and is named ,major ,heyward1 for another character in ,last of the ,mohicans4 ,the sewing machines based on the ,cora ,munro design also use branch designs as the overhanging arms4 ,a mother bird sits in the upper branch and descends to feed a young bird as the machine is in operation4 ,the one illustrated was used as the machine submitted with a request for patent by ,george ,hensel of ,new ,york ,city for which patent #bd1gcg was issued on ,july #ab1 #ahei4 ,since ,hensel's patent application was for an improvement in the feed1 there was no need for the highly decorative head unless such a machine was commercially available4 ,the patent specifications merely state that the head is ornamented4 ,another sewing machine of this type was used as the patent model by ,sidney ,parker of ,sing ,sing1 ,new ,york1 number #bd1ghj1 issued on the same date as the ,hensel patent4 ,parker's patent also covered an improved feeding mechanism4 ,in the patent description1 however1 the inventor states that the general form of the machine is not unlike others now in use4 ,by this he might have meant in the design1 or possibly in the basic structural form4 ,other than the two machines described1 no other examples are known to have survived1 but ,lady or ,cora ,munro sewing machines were manufactured4 7,smithsonian photo #deejf-;,d47 ,illustration3 ,figure #aje4--,,landfear',s ,,patent ,,sewing ,,machine of about #aheg4 ,another of the many machines that1 except for isolated examples1 have almost completely disappeared from the records is ,landfear's machine4 ,fortunately1 this manufacturer marked his machine--where many did not--stamping it3 ,landfear's patent-,decr #ahef1 ,no4 #bfb1 ,w4 ,h4 ,johnson's ,patent ,feb4 #bfth #ahef1 ,manfrd by ,parkers1 ,snow1 ,brooks ,co41 ,west ,meriden1 ,conn4 7,there was a ,parker sewing machine manufactured by the ,charles ,parker ,co4 of ,meriden1 but his machine was a double-thread chainstitch machine and was licensed by the ,combination4 ,the ,landfear machine may have been an earlier attempt by a predecessor or closely related company47 ,the ,landfear patent was for a shuttle machine1 but it also included a mode for regulating stitch length4 ,the name chosen for this machine may be incorrect1 since the single-thread chainstitch mechanism is primarily that of ,w4 ,h4 ,johnson1 but since the ,johnson patent also was used on other machines the name ,landfear was assigned4 ,the machine was probably another attempt to evade royalty payment to the ,combination4 ,the serial number #bfb indicates that at least that many machines were manufactured1 although this model is the only one known to be in existence4 ,the support arm of the machine head is iron1 cast as a vase of flowers and painted in natural colors4 ,the paint on the head is original1 but the table has been refinished1 and the iron legs1 which had rusted1 have been repainted4 7,smithsonian photo #dhddj-;,g47 ,illustration3 ,figure #ajf4--,,lathrop ,,sewing ,,machine of about #ahgc4 ,these machines were manufactured by the ,lathrop ,combination ,sewing ,machine ,co4 under the patents of ,lebbeus ,w4 ,lathrop of #ahfi1 #ahgj1 and #ahgc4 ,the machine used two threads1 both taken from spools2 moreover1 it produced not only the double chainstitch1 but it was constructed to produce also a lockstitch and a combined lock and chain stitch4 ,the machine illustrated bears the serial number #ca and the patent dates of ,grover ,baker1 and ,bachelder among others1 in addition to the first two ,lathrop patent dates4 ,the company lasted only a few years as it is included in the #ahha list of manufacturers that had ceased to exist4 7,smithsonian photo #dfiec-;,f47 ,illustration3 ,figure #ajg4--;,,illustration ,,from ,a ,,brochure1 marked in ink3 ,the ,national ,portrait ,gallery1 #ahee4 ,singer ,archives4 7,smithsonian photo #dhjia-;,e47 ,figures #ajg and #ajh4--,,the ,,nichols ,,and ,,leavitt sewing machines4 ,one of ,elias ,howe's earliest licensees was ,j4 ,b4 ,nichols4 ,his machine1 manufactured at first with ,george ,bliss and later alone as ,j4 ,b4 ,nichols ,co41 was called ,howe's ,improved ,patent ,sewing ,machine4 ,it was1 however1 no more a ,howe machine than any of the others produced under the ,howe patent4 ,in ,july #ahee ,nichols went into partnership with ,rufus ,leavitt1 and the company name changed to ,nichols1 ,leavitt ,co4 ,in #aheg it was changed again to ,leavitt ,co41 and finally in the mid-#ahfjs to ,leavitt ,sewing ,machine ,co4 ,by the #ahgjs1 it was defunct4 ,the ,nichols-,leavitt machines can be dated by their serial numbers approximately as follows3 ,serial ,number ,year ,company #a-bh #ahec ,nichols ,bliss #bi-bde #ahed ,j4 ,b4 ,nichols ,co4 #bdf-cig #ahee ,j4 ,b4 ,nichols ,co4--,nichols1 ,leavitt ,co4 #cih-fcb #ahef ,nichols1 ,leavitt ,co4 #fcc-hbg #aheg ,leavitt ,co4 #hbh-ijb #aheh #ijc-aaae #ahei #aaaf-adcf #ahfj #adcg-ageg #ahfa #ageh-bjgg #ahfb #bjgh-bdjj #ahfc #bdja-bijj #ahfd #bija-cijj #ahfe ,leavitt ,sewing ,machine ,co4 #cija-dijj #ahff #dija-eiea #ahfg #eieb-fiea #ahfh #fieb-ggbb #ahfi ,there is no record that the company was in existence after #ahfi4 ,illustration3 ,figure #ajh4--,,leavitt ,,sewing ,,machine of about #ahfh1 serial number #fijg4 7,smithsonian photo #dhcbh47 ,illustration3 ,figure #aji4--,,lester ,,sewing ,,machine of about #aheh4 ,the ,lester machine was first manufactured by ,j4 ,h4 ,lester in ,brooklyn1 ,new ,york4 ,his machine was based on the patents of ,william ,johnson1 ,john ,bradshaw and others but not on the patents held by the ,combination1 although he had secured a license4 ,when the ,old ,dominion ,company applied for a license from the ,combination1 ,lester learned of this1 went to ,richmond1 and arranged to combine his business with theirs4 ,since the ,lester machine was the better one1 it was agreed to cease the manufacture of the ,old ,dominion machines early in #ahfj and in ,march the company name was changed to the ,lester ,mfg4 ,co4 ,late in #ahfj1 ,george ,sloat entered the company with his ,elliptic machine2 the name was changed again1 this time to ,union ,sewing ,machine ,co4 ,the manufacture of both sewing machines continued until the outbreak of the ,civil ,war the following year1 which brought a conversion to arms production4 ,the manufacture of ,lester machines was never resumed4 ,the machine illustrated was manufactured by ,j4 ,h4 ,lester in ,brooklyn2 it bears the serial number #if4 ,the number of ,lester machines manufactured from #aheh through #ahfa is not known1 but it was probably less than #a1jjj4 7,smithsonian photo ,p#fccei47 ,illustration3 ,figure #aaj4--,,ne ,,plus ,,ultra of about #ahfg4 ,another of the interesting hand-turned chainstitch machines of the late #ahejs and #ahfjs was patented by ,o4,l4 ,reynolds4 ,the baster plates and the handle on the wheel are missing on this machine1 but an interesting shield and draped-flag pattern is painted on the base4 ,another machine of this type has the following inscription stamped on the baster plate3 ,ne ,plus ,ultra1 ,patent ,applied ,for1 #agd1 ,o4,l4 ,reynolds1 ,patentee ,manufacturer1 ,dover ,n4,h4 ,reynold's patent model1 ,march #cj1 #aheh1 bears the serial number #aaj1 indicating that the machine illustrated here--which bears the serial number #bf--was manufactured before the patent was obtained4 7,smithsonian photo #dhbaf-;,f47 ,illustration3 ,figure #aaa4--,,nettleton ,,raymond ,,sewing ,,machine4 ,one of the most ornate of the early1 small1 hand-turned sewing machines was patented and manufactured by ,willford ,h4 ,nettleton and ,charles ,raymond whose first patent was received on ,april #ad1 #aheg4 ,the patent model1 believed to be a commercial machine1 is beautifully silver-plated4 ,whether this was a special one-of-a-kind model1 or whether the inventors tried to make a commercial success of a silver-plated machine is not known4 ,the machine made a two-thread chainstitch1 taking both threads from commercial spools4 ,by ,october #aheg1 the inventors had received their second patent4 ,this time the machine was brass and gilt--brighter1 but less expensive4 ,at the same time1 ,nettleton ,raymond began manufacturing sewing-shears machines under the patent of ,j4 ,e4 ,hendricks4 ,by the latter half of #aheh1 ,nettleton ,raymond had moved from ,bristol1 ,connecticut1 to ,brattleboro1 ,vermont4 ,the patented improvement of the two-thread chainstitch machine received that year was in the name of ,raymond1 assignor to ,nettleton1 although the machines of this type bear neither name nor patent date4 ,no record of the price for which they were sold has been found1 but it would be fair to estimate that it was probably about #be4 ,this style of machine was discontinued when the manufacture of the simpler1 more profitable ,new ,england model began1 a machine that ,raymond had initiated just before the partners left ,bristol4 7,smithsonian photo #deeje-;,e47 ,illustration3 ,figure #aab4--,,raymond ,,patent ,,model1 ,march #i1 #aheh4 7,smithsonian photo #cbjji-,o47 ,illustration3 ,figure #aac4--,,new ,,england sewing machine of about #ahfj1 manufactured by ,nettleton ,raymond2 it bears the ,raymond patent date of ,march #i1 #aheh4 7,smithsonian photo #deeje-;,g47 ,illustration3 ,figures #aab and #aac4--,,new ,,england ,,sewing ,,machines4 ,the small1 hand-turned1 sewing machines some of which were called ,common ,sense1 were manufactured by at least three companies and possibly more4 ,the earliest ones were those made by ,nettleton ,raymond based on ,charles ,raymond's patent of ,march #i1 #aheh1 which featured a hinged presser foot acting as the top feed4 ,on ,july #cj1 #ahfa1 ,raymond received a patent for an improved looper2 this date is found on all machines later manufactured by the inventor4 ,in #aheh ,nettleton and ,raymond had moved from ,bristol1 ,connecticut1 to ,brattleboro1 ,vermont4 ,also in ,brattleboro at this time were ,thomas ,h4 ,white and ,samuel ,barker1 who were manufacturing a small machine called the ,brattleboro4 ,white left ,vermont in #ahfb and went to ,massachusetts4 ,there1 in partnership with ,william ,grout1 he also began to manufacture ,new ,england machines2 these were basically the same as the ,raymond machines4 ,after a short time1 ,grout left the partnership with ,white and moved to ,winchendon1 there continuing to make ,new ,england machines for approximately one more year4 ,in #ahfe1 ,j4 ,g4 ,folsom of ,winchendon exhibited a ,new ,england machine at the ,tenth ,exhibition of the ,massachusetts ,charitable ,mechanics ,association along with his ,globe machine4 ,whether both machines were manufactured by him or whether he might have been exhibiting one of ,grout's machines is not known4 ,there is no record that ,new ,england machines were manufactured after #ahfe4 ,there is a great similarity between these machines and the ,improved ,common ,sense sewing machines of the #ahgjs4 ,it is believed that the name ,common ,sense was given by frugal ,new ,englanders to several of the cheaper chainstitch machines of the #ahfjs4 ,illustration3 ,figure #aad4--,,pratt',s ,,second ,,patent ,,model1 ,march #c1 #aheg1 probably a commercial machine4 7,smithsonian photo #dhcbh-;,h47 ,illustration3 ,figures #aad and #aae4--,,pratt',s ,,patent and the ,ladies ,companion sewing machine4 ,the machines manufactured under the patents of ,samuel ,f4 ,pratt were first sold in #aheg and #aheh as ,pratt's patent4 ,these machines carry the ,pratt name and the patent dates ,feb4 #c1 #aheg ,mar4 #c2 the latter is an #aheg patent date also4 ,in #ahei the ,pratt machine was called the ,ladies ,companion and was so marked4 ,it was also marked with the #aheg patent dates1 the date ,february #af1 #aheh1 and a serial number1 and was stamped ,boston1 ,mass4 ,manufacture was discontinued after a few years4 ,illustration3 ,figure #aae4--,,ladies ,,companion1 #ahei4 7,photo courtesy of ,the ,henry ,ford ,museum and ,greenfield ,village1 ,dearborn1 ,michigan47 ,illustration3 ,figure #aaf4--,,quaker ,,city ,,sewing ,,machine4 ,during the first decade of sewing-machine manufacture many types of handsome wooden cases were developed to house the mechanisms4 ,although such cases increased the total cost1 they were greatly admired and were purchased whenever family funds permitted4 ,the machine was based on the patents of ,william ,p4 ,uhlinger3 a mechanical patent for a double chainstitch machine on ,august #ag1 #aheh 7antedated ,may #h71 and a patent for the casing on ,december #bh1 #aheh4 ,the machine head was lowered into the casing as the lid was brought forward and closed--an idea much ahead of its time4 ,this ,quaker ,city machine1 serial number #ah1 was purchased by ,benjamin ,f4 ,meadows of ,lafayette1 ,alabama1 for #aej just prior to the ,civil ,war4 ,relatively few machines of this type were manufactured1 and the ,quaker ,city ,sewing ,machine ,co4 existed for only a few years4 ,its apparent hope for a southern market was short-lived1 and it was unable to compete either with the companies licensed under the ,combination or with those producing less expensive machines4 7,smithsonian photo #dfiec-;,a47 ,illustration3 ,figure #aag4--;,,from ,,an ,,advertising ,,brochure1 marked in ink1 ,the ,national ,portrait ,gallery1 #ahee1 in the ,singer ,company's archives4 ,the brochure states ,howard ,davis1 #cd ,water ,street1 ,boston1 ,massachusetts ,sole ,manufacturers of ,robinson's ,patent ,sewing ,machine with ,roper's ,improvements4 7,smithsonian photo #dhjia-;,f47 ,illustration3 ,figure #aah4--,,sewing ,,machine ,,of ,,about #ahef with inscription ,howard ,davis ,makers1 ,boston1 ,mass4 ,robinson ,roper ,pat4 ,dec4 #aj1 #ahej1 ,aug4 #ae1 #ahed2 the drive wheel and the circular stitching plate of this machine are missing4 7,smithsonian photo #dhddj-;,c47 ,illustration3 ,figures #aag and #aah4--,,robinson ,,and ,,roper sewing machines1 #ahee-ahef4 ,this is one of the few machines producing a backstitch or half backstitch to realize any commercial success4 ,manufactured a very short time by ,howard ,davis1 it was a short-thread machine1 based on the ,frederick ,robinson patent of ,december #aj1 #ahej1 and the ,samuel ,roper patent of ,august #ae1 #ahed4 ,roper produced additional improvements for which he received a patent on ,november #d1 #ahef4 ,in the ,scientific ,american1 ,november #a1 #ahef1 the new machine was discussed3 ,robinson ,roper exhibit their new improved sewing machines1 which appear to operate with great success4 ,two needles are employed1 the points of which are furnished with hooks that alternately catch the thread and form the stitch4 ,the finest kind of cotton thread or silk can be used4 ,the work appears well done4 ,price #ajj4 ,illustration3 ,figure #aai4--;,,illustrated ,,page in a ,shaw ,clark advertising brochure1 published in late #ahfd4 7,smithsonian photo #facba47 ,illustration3 ,figure #abj4--,,shaw ,,clark ,,sewing ,,machine 7,page patent7 of #ahfg1 ,chicopee ,falls1 ,massachusetts4 7,smithsonian photo #dhbaf-,l47 ,illustration3 ,figures #aai and #abj4--,,shaw ,,clark ,,sewing ,,machines4 ,in addition to the early style ,monitor sewing machine sold by ,shaw ,clark without a name or any identifying marks1 the company continued to manufacture machines after a lawsuit with the ,combination forced them to take out a license4 ,they manufactured an adapted version of their ,monitor and an entirely new design patented in #ahfa4 ,their machines were now marked with the company name and a list of patent dates including those of ,howe1 ,wheeler and ,wilson1 ,grover and ,baker1 and ,singer and the ,batchelder patent1 together with their own design patents4 ,in #ahfg the company moved from ,biddeford1 ,maine1 to ,chicopee ,falls1 ,massachusetts4 ,in the same year1 they began manufacturing a machine of the design patented by ,t4 ,c4 ,page4 ,the company is believed to have become the ,chicopee ,sewing ,machine ,company which appeared the following year and remained in business only a very short time4 ,one ,chicopee sewing machine is in the ,smithsonian collection4 ,illustration3 ,figure #aba4--,,singer ,traverse ,shuttle ,machine--,letter ,a4 7,smithsonian photo #ehihd47 ,figures #aba and #abb4--,,singer ,,sewing ,,machines4 ,from #ahej to #aheh the ,singer company produced heavy manufacturing-type sewing machines similar to the patent model shown earlier 7fig4 #bh74 ,the first machine for family use1 ,singer's new ,family sewing machine 7fig4 #cc7 was manufactured from #aheh-ahfa4 ,their second-style family machine was called the ,traverse ,shuttle ,machine--,letter ,a2 it was manufactured from #ahei to #ahfe1 when they introduced their third family machine and called it the ,new ,family sewing machine4 ,this style machine continued until about #ahhc when the ,improved ,family machine appeared4 ,in addition to the lockstitch machines1 ,singer also manufactured chainstitch machines1 and many highly specialized manufacturing machines4 ,from #aheg through the #ahhjs1 the ,singer machines were marked with two serial numbers4 ,it is possible that the numbers were related to the ,combination royalties paid by the ,singer company4 ,until about #ahgc there was a difference of exactly #d1jjj in the two numbers1 thus one machine would be marked #abafc and directly below it would be marked #afafc4 ,from #ahgc the last three digits of the two numbers continued to be the same but the lower number might be much lower in value than either number used in earlier years4 ,the larger number is believed to have been a record of total production while the lower number may have referred to a machine of a particular style4 ,the ,singer company records can shed no light on the meaning of the top 7or lower of the two7 serial numbers4 ,generally1 in the earlier machines1 the difference in the two numbers will not affect the dating of a machine by more than one year4 ,since dating by serial number can only be estimated1 the two numbers do not add an appreciable variable prior to #ahgc4 ,only the larger number1 however1 should be considered in dating machines after #ahgc4 ,serial ,number ,year #a-ajj #ahej #aja-ijj #ahea #ija-agaa #aheb #agab-beba #ahec #bebb-cdjj #ahed #cdja-dbhc #ahee #dbhd-fhdg #ahef #fhdh-ajdgg #aheg #ajdgh-adjga #aheh #adjgb-bejbd #ahei #bejbe-dcjjj #ahfj #dcjja-fajjj #ahfa #fajja-gicif #ahfb #gicig-iidbf #ahfc #iidbg-abcjeh #ahfd #abcjei-adicii #ahfe #adidjj-ahjcfj #ahff #ahjcfa-bbcdad #ahfg #bbcdae-bhcjdd #ahfh #bhcjde-cfihbf #ahfi #cfihbg-digffj #ahgj #digffa-fghiba #ahga #fghibb-hihfhj #ahgb #hihfha-aabaabe #ahgc #aabaabf-acfbhje #ahgd #acfbhjf-afabfeh #ahge #afabfei-ahgdige #ahgf ,since records of annual production from #ahgg to the turn of the century are not complete1 it is difficult to establish yearly approximations4 ,using the machines submitted as patent models1 and thus known to have been manufactured before the date of deposit1 however1 has provided us with the following date guides4 ,by #ahgg there had been #b million machines manufactured1 #c million by #ahhj1 #d million by #ahhb1 #e million by #ahhd1 #f million by #ahhf1 #g million by #ahhh1 #h million by #ahhi1 #i million by #ahij1 and #aj million by #ahia4 ,illustration3 ,figure #abb4--,,singer ,new ,family sewing machine4 7,smithsonian photo #ehihg47 ,illustration3 ,figure #abc4--,,standard ,,sewing ,,machine of about #ahgj4 ,this chainstitch machine is believed to have been made by the company that later became the ,standard ,shuttle ,sewing ,machine ,company1 when they began manufacturing lockstitch machines about #ahgd4 ,this machine is marked with the name1 ,standard1 and with the dates ,patented ,july #ad1 #ahgj1 ,patented ,jan4 #bb1 #ahef1 ,dec4 #i1 #ahef1 ,dec4 #ab1 #ahfe4 ,the dates refer to the reissue and extended reissue of the ,bachelder and the ,a4 ,b4 ,wilson patents4 ,the number of chainstitch machines of this type that were manufactured is not known4 7,smithsonian photo #deejf-;,c47 ,illustration3 ,figure #abd4--,,taggart ,,farr sewing machine1 front view4 7,smithsonian photo #dhbaf-,p47 ,figures #abd and #abe4--,,taggart ,,farr sewing machine1 #ahfj4 ,the ,taggart ,farr is an almost forgotten machine4 ,it was based on ,chester ,farr's patent of ,august #i1 #ahei4 ,the machine1 however1 was in commercial production as early as #aheh1 the year the patent application was made4 ,using two threads--both taken directly from the spool--to form a chainstitch1 the machine was operated basically by treadle but also by hand4 ,the drive wheel is missing on this machine1 but it would normally appear on the right4 ,the name and patent date were painted on the end of the machine4 ,this was true of many other machines of this period1 which is why so many go unidentified once the paint has become worn4 ,several thousand ,taggart ,farr machines were manufactured1 but the company is believed to have had a short life1 for it was among those that had disappeared by #ahha4 ,illustration3 ,figure #abe4--,,taggart ,,farr sewing machine1 end view4 7,smithsonian photo #dhbaf-,m47 ,illustration3 ,figure #abf4--,,watson ,,sewing ,,machine1 #ahef1 illustrated in ,scientific ,american1 ,december #ac1 #ahef4 ,the earliest ,watson machines were two-thread lockstitch machines1 as described in the ,scientific ,american1 ,august #aj1 #ahej4 ,although the magazine reported that the inventor had applied for a patent1 the earliest lockstitch patent issued to ,william ,c4 ,watson was on ,march #aa1 #ahef4 ,a few of his machines were made in #ahej1 the article continued1 several of these machines are nearly finished 444 persons desirous of seeing them can be gratified by calling upon ,messrs4 ,jones ,lee4 ,a ,watson machine was exhibited by ,jones ,lee at the ,sixth ,exhibition of the ,massachusetts ,charitable ,mechanics ,association held in ,boston in ,september #ahej4 ,in #ahec a ,watson machine was exhibited at the ,new ,york ,industry of ,all ,nations ,exhibition1 but this was a single-looping machine2 ,watson received a patent for this single-thread machine on ,november #be1 #ahef4 ,in the ,december #ac1 #ahef1 issue of ,scientific ,american a machine called ,watson's ,family sewing machine was illustrated and described4 ,it was a small machine 7only #h by #e inches7 manufactured by ,watson ,wooster and selling for #aj4 ,references to the ,watson single-thread machine occur as late as #ahfj1 but no examples are known to have survived4 7,smithsonian photo #dhbba-;,b47 ,illustration3 ,figure #abg4--,,west ,,willson ,,sewing ,,machine of about #ahei4 ,the ,west ,willson machine1 manufactured under the patent of ,h4 ,b4 ,west and ,h4 ,f4 ,willson1 enjoyed a very brief span of popularity4 ,the patent covered the peculiar method of operating a spring-looper in combination with an eye-pointed needle to form a single chainstitch1 but whether machines of this single-thread variety were manufactured is unknown4 ,the machine illustrated here is a two-thread machine of basically the same description4 ,it stitches from left to right and bears serial number #aedd and the inscription ,west ,willson ,co4 patented ,june #bi1 #aheh4 7,smithsonian photo #didef-;,a47 ,illustration3 ,figure #abh4--,,wheeler ,,wilson ,,sewing ,,machine of about #ahgb4 ,serial number #fgjigd4 7,smithsonian photo ,p#fcadi-;,a47 ,illustration3 ,figure #abi4--,,wheeler ,,and ,,wilson ,,no4 #h sewing machine of about #ahgf4 7,smithsonian photo #agffc-;,c47 ,illustration3 ,figures #abh and #abi4--,wheeler and ,wilson sewing machines4 ,the ,wheeler and ,wilson company was the largest manufacturer of sewing machines in the #ahejs and the #ahfjs4 ,it began in #ahea as ,a4 ,b4 ,wilson2 from #aheb to #ahef it was the ,wheeler1 ,wilson ,co41 ,watertown1 ,connecticut2 and from #ahef to #ahgf1 it was ,wheeler ,wilson ,mfg4 ,co41 ,bridgeport1 ,connecticut4 ,the style of the head changed very little during these years 7see figs4 #bf and #bg74 ,both a table style with iron legs and a cabinet model were made3 the head was usually mounted to stitch from left to right4 ,in #ahfa1 the company introduced the famous glass presser foot1 patented on ,march #e of that year by ,j4 ,l4 ,hyde4 ,the presser foot was made of metal but shaped like an open 8 into which was slid a small glass plate1 with a hole for the needle descent4 ,the glass allowed the seamstress to observe the stitching and to produce very close-edge stitching4 ,it remained a favorite of many women for years4 ,in #ahgf1 the new ,no4 #h machine was introduced and a new series of serial numbers was initiated4 ,it is1 therefore1 imperative to know that the machine is one of the earlier style machines before using the following list of serial numbers to date the machines1 approximately as follows3 ,serial ,number ,year #a-bjj #ahea #bja-fej #aheb #fea-addi #ahec #adej-bbje #ahed #bbjf-ccgf #ahee #ccgg-eehf #ahef #eehg-ajagg #aheg #ajagh-ahaee #aheh #ahaef-cidfa #ahei #cidfb-fdefc #ahfj #fdefd-hcaai #ahfa #hcabj-aaacba #ahfb #aaacbb-adajii #ahfc #adaajj-ahaafa #ahfd #ahaafa-bbjcah #ahfe #bbjcai-bgjdej #ahff #bgjdea-cjheje #ahfg #cjhejf-ceghef #ahfh #cegheg-dcfgbb #ahfi #dcfgbc-eaiicj #ahgj #eaiica-fdhdef #ahga #fdhdeg-hbbede #ahgb #hbbedf-idagce #ahgc #idagcf-ajcdefc #ahgd #ajcdefd-acahcjc #ahge #aachcjd-abdgcjj #ahgf ,records of the second series of serial numbers dating from #ahgf are not available4 ,illustration3 ,figure #acj4--,,white ,,sewing ,,machine4 ,although the ,white sewing machines date from #ahgf1 ,thomas ,h4 ,white had been busy in the manufacture of sewing machines for many years prior to this4 ,white is known to have been associated with ,barker in the manufacture of the ,brattleboro machine and later with ,grout in producing one of the several ,new ,england machines4 ,in #ahff he moved to ,cleveland1 ,ohio1 and began manufacturing machines for sale under special trade names through selling organizations4 ,in #ahgf1 the ,white ,sewing ,machine ,company was formed and machines were sold under the ,white name4 ,the machine illustrated is a standard lockstitch machine1 which would have been set into a sewing-machine table and operated by a treadle4 ,the small handle was used to start the wheel1 and thus the stitching operation1 in the forward direction4 ,this machine bears the serial number #bhbda and the following patents3 ,mar4 #ad1 #ahgf1 ,may #b1 #ahgf1 ,oct4 #bd1 #ahgf1 ,jan4 #af1 #ahgg1 ,mar4 #bj1 #ahgg1 ,mar4 #bg1 #ahgg1 which are primarily the patents of ,d',arcy ,porter and ,george ,w4 ,baker4 ,the machines of the #ahgjs may be dated approximately as follows3 ,serial ,number ,year #a-ijjj #ahgf #ijjj-bgjjj #ahgg #bgjja-dejjj #ahgh #dejja-fcjjj #ahgi 7,smithsonian photo #dhcbi-;,h47 ,illustration3 ,figure #aca4--,,willcox ,,and ,,gibbs ,,sewing ,,machine1 serial number #bifegb1 of about #ahgh4 ,from #aheg to the turn of the century1 the style of the ,willcox and ,gibbs sewing machine changed very little 7fig4 #ci74 ,it was the most popular and the most reliable of the many chainstitch machines4 ,in addition to the basic mechanical patents1 ,gibbs also patented the design of the sewing-machine head in #ahfj4 ,in the specifications1 he described it as an open ring set on a base or pedestal4 ,the lower part of the open section supported the cloth plate4 ,the design of the head1 intentionally or not1 formed a perfect letter ,g1 the initial of the inventor4 ,later the machine head as a letter ,g was incorporated into the company's trademark4 ,additional patents were also granted to ,james ,willcox for a leg and treadle design and to ,charles ,willcox for mechanical improvements4 ,it has not been possible to secure information on records of serial numbers from the late #ahgjs through the #aibjs to aid in dating machines of that period4 ,for the preceding years1 however1 the machines may be dated approximately as follows3 ,serial ,number ,year #a-ajjjj #aheg #ajjja-bjjjj #aheh #bjjja-cjjjj #ahei #cjjja-djjjj #ahfj #djjja-ejjjj #ahfa #ejjja-fjjjj #ahfb #fjjja-gjjjj #ahfc #gjjja-hjjjj #ahfd #hjjja-ijjjj #ahfe #ijjja-ajjjjj #ahff #ajjjja-aaejjj #ahfg #aaejja-acjjjj #ahfh #acjjja-adejjj #ahfi #adejja-afjjjj #ahgj #afjjja-aijabg #ahga #aijabh-bbcgff #ahgb #bbcgfg-bcifdg #ahgc #bcifdh-becceg #ahgd #becceh-bfghgi #ahge #bfghhj-bgifcg #ahgf ,although the ,willcox and ,gibbs company is still in existence1 for the past several decades the company has limited itself to the production of specialized manufacturing machines rather than family machines4 7,smithsonian photo #ehihf47 ,illustration ---- ,illustration3 ,figure #acb4--;,,illustration from ,knights ,american ,mechanical ,dictionary1 vol4 #c1 p4 #babb4 ,the #fh sewing-machine stitches in use by #ahhb are as follows3 ,,single ,,thread #a4 ,running stitch4 #b4 ,back stitch4 #c4 ,fast stitch4 #d4 ,chainstitch4 #e4 ,coiled-loop chainstitch4 #f4 ,knitted-loop chainstitch4 #g4 ,knotted-loop chainstitch4 #h4 ,loop enchained by second alternate stitch4 #i4 ,each loop locks and enchains alternate loops4 #aj4 ,staple stitch 7for waxed threads only74 ,,two ,,threads #aa4 ,double-needle chainstitch4 #ab4 ,double-thread chainstitch 7one needle74 #ac4 ,double-looped chainstitch4 #ad4 ,chain with interlocking thread4 #ae4 ,under-thread through its own loop4 #af4 ,two needles penetrate fabric from opposite sides4 #ag4 ,two needles working from the same side4 #ah4 ,double interlocking loop4 #ai4 ,lockstitch4 #bj4 ,twist in needle thread4 #ba4 ,double twist in needle thread4 #bb4 ,twist in shuttle thread4 #bc4 ,double twist in shuttle thread4 #bd4 ,knot stitch1 shuttle thread knotted at every stitch4 #be4 ,knot stitch1 shuttle thread knotted at every other stitch4 #bf4 ,knot stitch1 shuttle thread through the needle thread loop and knotted around the loop4 #bg4 ,shuttle thread pulled to the surface and interlocked with succeeding stitch to form an embroidery stitch4 #bh4 ,wire-lock stitch1 thread locked in place with wire4 ,,three ,,threads #bi4 ,two shuttles1 each locking alternate loops4 #cj4 ,double loop with interlocking third thread4 #ca4 ,two shuttle threads1 both locking each loop4 #cb4 ,two shuttle threads intertwining and locking each loop4 #cc4 ,single thread2 loop of needle thread drawn up over the edge and locked by needle at its next descent4 #cd4 ,two threads2 loops of needle thread1 above and below1 extend to the edge of the fabric1 and are locked by shuttle thread4 #ce4 ,two threads2 needle penetrates back from edge1 its loop passed to and interlocked by the needle at its next descent over the edge1 and this second needle-loop locked by shuttle thread4 #cf4 ,two threads2 shuttle thread drawn up over the edge of the fabric to the line of the needle thread4 #cg4 ,two threads2 needle loop through the fabric locked by needle loop over the edge and second loop locked by second thread4 #ch4 ,two threads2 edge of fabric covered by shuttle thread4 #ci4 ,three threads2 third thread laid around the stitch at the edge of the fabric4 ,,ornamental ,,stitches #dj4 ,zigzag2 single thread chainstitch 7#d74 #da4 ,zigzag2 two-thread lockstitch 7#ai74 #db4 ,zigzag2 two-thread chainstitch 7#ac74 #dc4 ,zigzag2 chain stitch with interlocking thread 7#ad74 #dd4 ,zigzag2 double loop with interlocking third thread 7#cj74 #de4 ,zigzag2 running stitch 7#a74 #df4 ,zigzag2 two needles and shuttle4 #dg4 ,zigzag2 variation of #df4 #dh-eb4 ,zigzag stitches for sewing straw braid4 #ec-fb4 ,straight straw-braid stitches4 #fc-fg4 ,special embroidery stitches4 #fh4 ,saddler's stitch4 99 99 99 99 99 ,in the ,sewing ,machine ,news1 vol4 #c1 no4 #e1 p4 #ab 7#ahha71 there were listed a number of then defunct machines and companies4 ,among these are many well-known names and little-known names for which at least one additional reference can be found4 ,there are some1 however1 for which this is the only reference to date4 ,these are3 ,blanchard1 ,babcock1 ,banner1 ,brown ,rotary1 ,cottage1 ,cole1 ,duplex1 ,economist1 ,erie1 ,gutman1 ,hill1 ,hancock ,bennett1 ,jenks1 ,lockmar1 ,la ,favorite1 ,learned1 ,leggett1 ,mc,coy1 ,mc,cardy1 ,medallion1 ,mc,arthur ,co41 ,monopoly1 ,moreau1 ,mack1 ,niagra1 ,new ,cannaan1 ,orphean1 ,pride-of-the-,west1 ,seamen ,guiness1 ,surprise1 ,stackpole1 ,shanks1 ,stanford1 ,troy1 ,utica1 ,united ,states ,family1 ,weaver1 ,wagner1 and ,williams4 ,some of these names may have been a special name given to machines manufactured by one of the known companies1 but at least a few are names of machines manufactured for a very short time prior to #ahha about which we would like to know more4 ,,iii4 ,chronological ,list of ,u4,s4 ,sewing-,machine ,patent ,models in the ,smithsonian ,collections ,there are more than seven hundred sewing-machine patent models and a similar number of attachment models in the ,smithsonian collections4 ,most of these machines were received in #aibf when the ,patent ,office disposed of its collection of hundreds of thousands of models4 ,prior to #ahhj1 models had been required with the patent application2 although the requirement was discontinued that year1 patentees continued to furnish models for another decade or so4 ,all models prior to #ahcf were lost in a ,patent ,office fire of that year1 but since the sewing-machine patent history dates from the #ahdjs1 most of the historically important ones of this subject have been preserved4 ,these models form a valuable part of the record of the invention1 supplementing the drawings and the text of the written specifications4 ,the early sewing-machine models were made to order1 either by the inventor or a commissioned model maker4 ,as soon as sewing machines were produced commercially1 it was less expensive for the patentee to use a commercial machine of the period1 to which he added his change or improvement1 than to have a complete model constructed to order4 ,some of the commercial machines used in this way are the only examples known to be in existence1 and as such1 are of more interest in establishing the history of the manufactured machine than for the minor patented changes4 ,during the period of the ,sewing ,machine ,combination1 many patentees attempted to invent and patent the different machine4 ,this was either a radical change in style or an attempt to produce a far less-expensive type of machine4 ,these machines were not always put into commercial production1 but the patent models give an indication of the extent to which some inventors went to simplify or vary the mechanics of machine sewing4 ,the following is a list of those sewing-machine patent models in the ,smithsonian ,institution collections3 ,patentee ,date ,patent ,number ,greenough1 ,john ,j4 ,feb4 #ba1 #ahdb #b1dff ,bean1 ,benjamin ,w4 ,march #d1 #ahdc #b1ihb ,corliss1 ,george ,h4 ,dec4 #bg1 #ahdc #c1chi ,howe1 ,elias1 ,jr4 ,sept4 #aj1 #ahdf #d1gej ,bachelder1 ,john ,may #h1 #ahdi #f1dci ,wilson1 ,allen ,b4 ,nov4 #ab1 #ahej #g1ggf ,robinson1 ,frederick ,r4 ,dec4 #aj1 #ahej #g1hbd ,grover ,baker ,feb4 #aa1 #ahea #g1ica ,singer1 ,isaac ,m4 ,aug4 #ab1 #ahea #h1bid ,wilson1 ,allen ,b4 ,aug4 #ab1 #ahea #h1bif ,wilson1 ,allen ,b4 ,june #ae1 #aheb #i1jda ,miller1 ,charles ,july #bj1 #aheb #i1aci ,avery1 ,otis ,oct4 #ai1 #aheb #i1cch ,hodgkins1 ,g4 ,nov4 #b1 #aheb #i1cfe ,bradeen1 ,j4 ,g4 ,nov4 #b1 #aheb #i1chj ,bates1 ,w4 ,g4 ,feb4 #bb1 #ahec #i1eib ,thompson1 ,t4 ,c4 ,march #bi1 #ahec #i1fda ,wickersham1 ,w4 ,april #ai1 #ahec #i1fgi ,johnson1 ,w4 ,h4 ,march #g1 #ahed #aj1eig ,harrison1 ,j41 ,jr4 ,april #aa1 #ahed #aj1gfc ,avery1 ,otis ,may #i1 #ahed #aj1hhj ,singer1 ,isaac ,may #cj1 #ahed #aj1ige ,hunt1 ,walter ,june #bg1 #ahed #aa1afa ,roper1 ,s4 ,h4 ,aug4 #ae1 #ahed #aa1eca ,shaw1 ,p4 ,sept4 #ab1 #ahed #aa1fhj ,ambler1 ,d4 ,c4 ,nov4 #a1 #ahed #aa1hhd ,robertson1 ,t4 ,j4 ,w4 ,nov4 #bh1 #ahed #ab1jae ,lyon1 ,w4 ,dec4 #ab1 #ahed #ab1jff ,stedman1 ,g4 ,w4 ,dec4 #ab1 #ahed #ab1jgd ,ward1 ,d4 ,t4 ,jan4 #b1 #ahee #ab1adf ,conant1 ,j4 ,s4 ,jan4 #af1 #ahee #ab1bcc ,smith1 ,h4 ,b4 ,jan4 #af1 #ahee #ab1bdg ,singer1 ,i4 ,m4 ,feb4 #f1 #ahee #ab1cfd ,stedman1 ,g4 ,w4 ,march #bj1 #ahee #ab1egc ,stedman1 ,g4 ,w4 ,may #a1 #ahee #ab1gih ,chilcott1 ,j41 and ,scrimgeour1 ,j4 ,march #ae1 #ahee #ab1hef ,durgin1 ,charles ,a4 ,may #bb1 #ahee #ab1ijb ,bond1 ,j41 ,jr4 ,may #bb1 #ahee #ab1ici ,singer1 ,isaac ,june #ab1 #ahee #ac1jfe ,harrison1 ,j41 ,jr4 ,oct4 #b1 #ahee #ac1faf ,singer1 ,i4 ,m4 ,oct4 #i1 #ahee #ac1ffa ,singer1 ,i4 ,m4 ,oct4 #i1 #ahee #ac1ffb ,langdon1 ,l4 ,w4 ,oct4 #cj1 #ahee #ac1gbg ,stedman1 ,g4 ,w4 ,nov4 #bg1 #ahee #ac1hef ,swingle1 ,a4 ,feb4 #e1 #ahef #ad1bjg ,watson1 ,wm4 ,c4 ,march #aa1 #ahef #ad1dcc ,singer1 ,i4 ,m4 ,march #ah1 #ahef #ad1dge ,grover1 ,w4 ,o4 ,may #bg1 #ahef #ad1ief ,blodgett1 ,s4 ,c4 ,aug4 #e1 #ahef #ae1dfi ,roper1 ,s4 ,h4 ,nov4 #d1 #ahef #af1jbf ,singer1 ,isaac ,m4 ,nov4 #d1 #ahef #af1jcj ,gibbs1 ,james ,e4 ,a4 ,dec4 #af1 #ahef #af1bcd ,jennings1 ,l4 ,dec4 #af1 #ahef #af1bcg ,johnson1 ,a4 ,f4 ,jan4 #ac1 #aheg #af1chg ,gibbs1 ,j4 ,e4 ,a4 ,jan4 #bj1 #aheg #af1dcd ,howe1 ,elias1 ,jr4 ,jan4 #bj1 #aheg #af1dcf ,alexander1 ,elisa ,feb4 #c1 #aheg #af1eah ,gray1 ,joshua ,feb4 #c1 #aheg #af1eff ,belcher1 ,c4 ,d4 ,march #c1 #aheg #af1gaj ,pratt1 ,s4 ,f4 ,march #c1 #aheg #af1gde ,nettleton ,raymond ,april #ad1 #aheg #ag1jdi ,gibbs1 ,j4 ,e4 ,a4 ,june #b1 #aheg #ag1dbg ,harris1 ,daniel ,june #i1 #aheg #ag1ejh ,harris1 ,daniel ,june #af1 #aheg #ag1ega ,sage1 ,william ,june #cj1 #aheg #ag1gag ,lathbury1 ,e4 ,t4 ,july #g1 #aheg #ag1gdd ,wickersham1 ,w4 ,aug4 #be1 #aheg #ah1jfh ,wickersham1 ,w4 ,aug4 #be1 #aheg #ah1jfi ,behn1 ,henry ,aug4 #be1 #aheg #ah1jga ,nettleton1 ,wm4 ,h41 and ,oct4 #f1 #aheg #ah1cej ,raymond1 ,charles ,roper1 ,s4 ,h4 ,oct4 #bg1 #aheg #ah1ebb ,fetter1 ,george ,dec4 #a1 #aheg #ah1gic ,watson1 ,w4 ,c4 ,dec4 #h1 #aheg #ah1hcd ,behn1 ,h4 ,dec4 #ae1 #aheg #ah1hhj ,hubbard1 ,george ,w4 ,dec4 #bb1 #aheg #ah1ijd ,lazelle1 ,w4 ,h4 ,dec4 #bb1 #aheg #ah1iae ,clark1 ,david ,w4 ,jan4 #e1 #aheh #ai1jae ,fetter1 ,george ,jan4 #e1 #aheh #ai1jei ,clark1 ,david ,w4 ,jan4 #ab1 #aheh #ai1jgb ,clark1 ,david ,w4 ,jan4 #ai1 #aheh #ai1abi ,dimmock1 ,martial1 and ,jan4 #ai1 #aheh #ai1ace ,rixford1 ,nathan ,boyd1 ,a4 ,h4 ,jan4 #ai1 #aheh #ai1aga ,angell1 ,benjamin ,j4 ,feb4 #i1 #aheh #ai1bhe ,clark1 ,david ,w4 ,feb4 #bc1 #aheh #ai1dji ,raymond1 ,charles ,march #i1 #aheh #ai1fab ,hendrick1 ,joseph ,e4 ,march #af1 #aheh #ai1ffj ,parker1 ,sidney ,march #af1 #aheh #ai1ffb ,gray1 ,joshua ,march #af1 #aheh #ai1ffe ,coates1 ,f4 ,s4 ,march #bc1 #aheh #ai1fhd ,clark1 ,david ,w4 ,march #bc1 #aheh #ai1gcb ,reynolds1 ,o4 ,s4 ,march #cj1 #aheh #ai1gic ,bartholf1 ,abraham ,april #f1 #aheh #ai1hbc ,savage1 ,e4 ,april #f1 #aheh #ai1hgf ,atwood1 ,j4 ,e41 ,j4 ,c41 and ,o4 ,april #ac1 #aheh #ai1ijc ,bosworth1 ,chas4 ,f4 ,april #bj1 #aheh #ai1igi ,clark1 ,david ,w4 ,june #h1 #aheh #bj1dha ,herron1 ,a4 ,c4 ,june #ae1 #aheh #bj1eeg ,johnson1 ,a4 ,f4 ,june #bb1 #aheh #bj1fhf ,barnes1 ,w4 ,t4 ,june #bi1 #aheh #bj1fhh ,smith1 ,e4 ,h4 ,june #bi1 #aheh #bj1gci ,west1 ,h4 ,b41 and ,june #bi1 #aheh #bj1gec ,willson1 ,h4 ,f4 ,miller1 ,w4 ,june #bi1 #aheh #bj1gfc ,blake1 ,lyman ,r4 ,july #f1 #aheh #bj1gge ,carpenter1 ,lunan ,july #bg1 #aheh #bj1iij ,moore1 ,charles ,july #bg1 #aheh #ba1jae ,smith1 ,e4 ,h4 ,aug4 #c1 #aheh #ba1jhi ,wheeler and ,carpenter ,aug4 #c1 #aheh #ba1ajj ,gibbs1 ,j4 ,e4 ,a4 ,aug4 #aj1 #aheh #ba1abi ,uhlinger1 ,w4 ,p4 ,aug4 #ag1 #aheh #ba1bbd ,clark1 ,david ,w4 ,aug4 #ca1 #aheh #ba1cbb ,blodgett1 ,s4 ,c4 ,sept4 #g1 #aheh #ba1dfe ,hubbard1 ,g4 ,w4 ,sept4 #ad1 #aheh #ba1ecg ,hendrick1 ,j4 ,e4 ,oct4 #e1 #aheh #ba1gbb ,gibbs1 ,j4 ,e4 ,a4 ,oct4 #ab1 #aheh #ba1gea ,sangster1 ,amos4 ,w4 ,oct4 #bf1 #aheh #ba1ibi ,avery1 ,o4 and ,z4 ,w4 ,nov4 #i1 #aheh #bb1jjg ,spencer and ,lamb ,nov4 #bc1 #aheh #bb1acg ,perry1 ,james ,nov4 #bc1 #aheh #bb1adh ,burnet and ,broderick ,nov4 #cj1 #aheh #bb1afj ,hook1 ,albert ,h4 ,nov4 #cj1 #aheh #bb1agi ,raymond1 ,charles ,nov4 #cj1 #aheh #bb1bbj ,bishop1 ,h4 ,h4 ,dec4 #g1 #aheh #bb1bbf ,pratt1 ,s4 ,f4 ,dec4 #g1 #aheh #bb1bdj ,atwood1 ,j4 ,e4 ,dec4 #ad1 #aheh #bb1bgc ,fosket1 ,w4 ,a41 and ,jan4 #be1 #ahei #bb1gai ,savage1 ,elliot ,snyder1 ,w4 ,feb4 #ae1 #ahei #bb1ihg ,clark1 ,d4 ,w4 ,may #c1 #ahei #bc1hbc ,boyd1 ,a4 ,h4 ,may #ag1 #ahei #bd1jjc ,gray1 ,joshua ,may #ag1 #ahei #bd1jbb ,hook1 ,albert ,h4 ,may #ag1 #ahei #bd1jbg ,spencer1 ,james ,c4 ,may #ag1 #ahei #bd1jfa ,carhart1 ,peter ,s4 ,may #bd1 #ahei #bd1jih ,mc,curdy1 ,j4 ,s4 ,june #ad1 #ahei #bd1cie ,goodwyn1 ,h4 ,h4 ,june #ba1 #ahei #bd1dee ,grout1 ,william ,july #e1 #ahei #bd1fbi ,hensel1 ,george ,july #ab1 #ahei #bd1gcg ,parker1 ,sidney ,july #ab1 #ahei #bd1ghj ,hall1 ,william ,july #bf1 #ahei #bd1hgj ,hayden1 ,h4 ,w4 ,aug4 #b1 #ahei #bd1icg ,kelsey1 ,d4 ,aug4 #b1 #ahei #bd1ici ,emswiler1 ,j4 ,b4 ,aug4 #i1 #ahei #be1jjb ,farr1 ,c4 ,n4 ,aug4 #i1 #ahei #be1jjd ,harrison1 ,james1 ,jr4 ,aug4 #i1 #ahei #be1jac ,tapley1 ,g4 ,s4 ,aug4 #i1 #ahei #be1jei ,barnes1 ,w4 ,t4 ,aug4 #af1 #ahei #be1jhd ,booth1 ,ezekial ,aug4 #af1 #ahei #be1jhg ,hinkley1 ,j4 ,aug4 #bc1 #ahei #be1bca ,harrison1 ,james1 ,jr4 ,aug4 #cj1 #ahei #be1bfb ,buell1 ,j4 ,s4 ,sept4 #ac1 #ahei #be1cha ,vogel1 ,kasimir ,oct4 #d1 #ahei #be1fib ,woodward1 ,f4 ,g4 ,oct4 #aa1 #ahei #be1ghb ,barrett1 ,o4 ,d4 ,oct4 #aa1 #ahei #be1ghe ,barnes1 ,william ,t4 ,oct4 #be1 #ahei #be1hgf ,sawyer1 ,irwin1 and ,alsop1 ,t4 ,oct4 #be1 #ahei #be1iah ,budlong1 ,william ,g4 ,nov4 #a1 #ahei #be1idf ,fosket1 ,william ,a41 ,nov4 #a1 #ahei #be1ifc and ,savage1 ,e4 ,hicks1 ,w4 ,c4 ,nov4 #h1 #ahei #bf1jce ,scofield1 ,c4 ,nov4 #h1 #ahei #bf1jei ,pearson1 ,william ,nov4 #bb1 #ahei #bf1bja ,mc,curdy1 ,james ,s4 ,nov4 #bb1 #ahei #bf1bcd ,clark1 ,edwin ,dec4 #f1 #ahei #bf1ccf ,dickinson1 ,c4 ,w4 ,dec4 #f1 #ahei #bf1cdf ,miller1 ,charles ,dec4 #ac1 #ahei #bf1dfb ,rowe1 ,jas4 ,dec4 #bg1 #ahei #bf1fch ,johnson1 ,a4 ,f4 ,jan4 #bd1 #ahfj #bf1idh ,thomson1 ,j4 ,feb4 #g1 #ahfj #bg1jhb ,juengst1 ,george ,feb4 #ad1 #ahfj #bg1acb ,davis1 ,job ,a4 ,feb4 #ba1 #ahfj #bg1bjh ,gibbs1 ,james ,e4 ,a4 ,feb4 #ba1 #ahfj #bg1bad ,rowe1 ,james ,feb4 #ba1 #ahfj #bg1bfj ,dopp1 ,h4 ,w4 ,feb4 #bh1 #ahfj #bg1bgi ,paine1 ,a4 ,r4 ,march #f1 #ahfj #bg1dab ,smalley1 ,j4 ,march #bj1 #ahfj #bg1egg ,newlove1 ,t4 ,april #c1 #ahfj #bg1gfa ,mc,curdy1 ,j4 ,s4 ,may #a1 #ahfj #bh1jig ,arnold1 ,g4 ,b4 ,may #h1 #ahfj #bh1aci ,bean1 ,e4 ,e4 ,may #h1 #ahfj #bh1add ,holly1 ,birdsill ,may #h1 #ahfj #bh1agf ,chamberlain1 ,j4 ,n4 ,may #bi1 #ahfj #bh1deb ,ruddick1 ,h4 ,may #bi1 #ahfj #bh1ech ,scofield1 ,chas41 and ,june #e1 #ahfj #bh1faj ,rice1 ,clarke ,smith1 ,wilson ,h4 ,june #ai1 #ahfj #bh1ghe ,rose1 ,i4 ,m4 ,june #ai1 #ahfj #bh1had ,gibbs1 ,j4 ,e4 ,a4 ,june #bf1 #ahfj #bh1hea ,mc,curdy1 ,j4 ,s4 ,july #c1 #ahfj #bh1iic ,mueller1 ,h4 ,july #c1 #ahfj #bh1iif ,sutton1 ,wm4 ,a4 ,july #ag1 #ahfj #bi1bjb ,hicks1 ,w4 ,c4 ,july #bd1 #ahfj #bi1bfh ,tracy1 ,d4 ,sept4 #aa1 #ahfj #cj1jab ,washburn1 ,t4 ,s4 ,sept4 #aa1 #ahfj #cj1jca ,arnold1 ,g4 ,b41 and ,a4 ,sept4 #be1 #ahfj #cj1aab ,leavitt1 ,rufus ,nov4 #ac1 #ahfj #cj1fcd ,payne1 ,r4 ,s4 ,nov4 #ac1 #ahfj #cj1fda ,heyer1 ,frederick ,nov4 #bg1 #ahfj #cj1gca ,hardie1 ,j4 ,w4 ,dec4 #d1 #ahfj #cj1hed ,earle1 ,t4 ,jan4 #bb1 #ahfa #ca1aef ,bruen1 ,j4 ,t4 ,jan4 #bb1 #ahfa #ca1bjh ,smith1 ,j4 ,m4 ,feb4 #e1 #ahfa #ca1ccd ,smith1 ,l4 ,h4 ,feb4 #ab1 #ahfa #ca1daa ,rice1 ,quartus ,feb4 #ab1 #ahfa #ca1dbi ,rose1 ,i4 ,m4 ,march #e1 #ahfa #ca1fbh ,ross1 ,noble ,g4 ,march #bf1 #ahfa #ca1hbi ,boyd1 ,a4 ,h4 ,april #b1 #ahfa #ca1hfd ,mallary1 ,g4 ,h4 ,april #b1 #ahfa #ca1hig ,shaw1 ,h4 ,l4 ,april #i1 #ahfa #cb1jjg ,burr1 ,theodore ,april #i1 #ahfa #cb1jbc ,jones1 ,william1 and ,may #ad1 #ahfa #cb1big ,haughian1 ,p4 ,wilder1 ,m4 ,g4 ,may #ad1 #ahfa #cb1cbc ,smith1 ,lewis ,h4 ,may #ba1 #ahfa #cb1che ,stoakes1 ,j4 ,w4 ,may #bh1 #ahfa #cb1def ,fuller1 ,william ,m4 ,june #d1 #ahfa #cb1dif ,norton1 ,b4 ,f4 ,july #i1 #ahfa #cb1ghb ,raymond1 ,c4 ,july #i1 #ahfa #cb1ghe ,raymond1 ,charles ,july #cj1 #ahfa #cb1ibe ,case1 ,g4 ,f4 ,aug4 #ac1 #ahfa #cc1jbi ,hodgkins1 ,c4 ,aug4 #bj1 #ahfa #cc1jhe ,marble1 ,f4 ,e4 ,oct4 #h1 #ahfa #cc1dci ,mann1 ,charles ,oct4 #bb1 #ahfa #cc1eef ,grover1 ,w4 ,o4 ,nov4 #bf1 #ahfa #cc1ggh ,hendrickson1 ,e4 ,m4 ,feb4 #d1 #ahfb #cd1ccj ,derocquigny1 ,a4 ,c4 ,f41 ,march #be1 #ahfb #cd1gdh ,gance1 ,d41 and ,hanzo1 ,l4 ,thompson1 ,r4 ,april #h1 #ahfb #cd1ibf ,smith1 ,john ,c4 ,april #ae1 #ahfb #cd1ihh ,palmer1 ,aaron ,may #ac1 #ahfb #ce1beb ,hall1 ,w4 ,s4 ,aug4 #e1 #ahfb #cf1jhd ,mc,curdy1 ,james ,s4 ,aug4 #ai1 #ahfb #cf1bef ,grover1 ,w4 ,o4 ,sept4 #i1 #ahfb #cf1dje ,wilkins1 ,j4 ,n4 ,sept4 #cj1 #ahfb #cf1eia ,humphrey1 ,d4 ,w4 ,g4 ,oct4 #g1 #ahfb #cf1fag ,house1 ,h4 ,a41 and ,j4 ,a4 ,nov4 #aa1 #ahfb #cf1icb ,crossby1 ,c4 ,o41 and ,kellogg1 ,h4 ,dec4 #b1 #ahfb #cg1jcc ,shaw1 ,a4 ,b4 ,dec4 #af1 #ahfb #cg1bjb ,pipo1 ,john ,a4 ,jan4 #bg1 #ahfc #cg1eej ,hollowell1 ,j4 ,g4 ,feb4 #aj1 #ahfc #cg1fbd ,howe1 ,a4 ,b4 ,march #ag1 #ahfc #cg1iac ,weitling1 ,w4 ,march #ag1 #ahfc #cg1ica ,shaw ,clark ,april #ba1 #ahfc #ch1bdf ,baldwin1 ,cyrus ,w4 ,april #bh1 #ahfc #ch1bgf ,grote1 ,f4 ,w4 ,may #e1 #ahfc #ch1ddg ,palmer1 ,c4 ,h4 ,may #e1 #ahfc #ch1dej ,mack1 ,w4 ,a4 ,may #ai1 #ahfc #ch1eib ,bosworth1 ,c4 ,f4 ,june #i1 #ahfc #ch1hjg ,mc,curdy1 ,j4 ,s4 ,june #af1 #ahfc #ch1ica ,langdon1 ,leander ,w4 ,july #ad1 #ahfc #ci1bef ,house1 ,j4 ,a41 and ,h4,a4 ,aug4 #d1 #ahfc #ci1ddb-ci1dde 7#d patents on #a machine7 ,tracy and ,hobbs ,sept4 #ae1 #ahfc #dj1jjj ,wagener1 ,jeptha ,a4 ,oct4 #ac1 #ahfc #dj1bif ,rehfuss1 ,g4 ,oct4 #ac1 #ahfc #dj1caa ,lathrop1 ,lebbeus ,w41 ,oct4 #bg1 #ahfc #dj1ddf and de ,sanno1 ,wm4 ,p4 ,heyer1 ,w4 ,d4 ,nov4 #ag1 #ahfc #dj1fbb ,simmons1 ,a4 ,g41 and ,scofield1 ,c4 ,march #a1 #ahfd #da1gij ,guinness1 ,w4 ,s4 ,march #ae1 #ahfd #da1iaf ,willcox1 ,charles ,h4 ,march #bb1 #ahfd #db1jcf 7#d patents on #a machine7 ,aug4 #i1 #ahfd #dc1hai ,sept4 #bg1 #ahfd #dd1dij ,sept4 #bg1 #ahfd #dd1dia ,sibley1 ,j4 ,j4 ,march #bi1 #ahfd #db1aag ,thompson1 ,r4 ,april #ai1 #ahfd #db1ddi ,mc,kay ,blake ,may #bd1 #ahfd #db1iaf ,chittenden1 ,h4 ,h4 ,june #bh1 #ahfd #dc1bhi ,hall1 ,luther ,july #e1 #ahfd #dc1djd ,planer1 ,louis ,aug4 #bc1 #ahfd #dc1ibg ,atwater1 ,b4 ,sept4 #f1 #ahfd #dd1jfc ,dale1 ,john ,d4 ,oct4 #aa1 #ahfd #dd1fhf ,gritzner1 ,m4 ,c4 ,oct4 #ah1 #ahfd #dd1gbj ,smith1 ,de,witt ,c4 ,dec4 #bj1 #ahfd #de1ebh ,weitling1 ,w4 ,jan4 #c1 #ahfe #de1ggg ,cadwell1 ,c4 ,jan4 #bd1 #ahfe #de1igb ,bartlett1 ,j4 ,w4 ,jan4 #ca1 #ahfe #df1jfd ,mc,curdy1 ,james ,s4 ,feb4 #g1 #ahfe #df1cjc ,lamb1 ,thomas1 and ,aug4 #ae1 #ahfe #di1dba ,allen1 ,john ,humphrey1 ,d4 ,w4 ,g4 ,aug4 #bi1 #ahfe #di1fbg ,tarbox1 ,john ,n4 ,sept4 #e1 #ahfe #di1hjc ,crosby1 ,c4 ,o4 ,oct4 #c1 #ahfe #ej1bbe ,cajar1 ,e4 ,oct4 #c1 #ahfe #ej1bii ,hart1 ,william ,oct4 #ag1 #ahfe #ej1dfi ,hecht1 ,a4 ,oct4 #ag1 #ahfe #ej1dgc ,emerson1 ,john ,nov4 #ad1 #ahfe #ej1ihi ,keats1 ,john1 and ,clark1 ,wm4 ,s4 ,nov4 #ad1 #ahfe #ej1iie ,rehfuss1 ,george ,nov4 #ba1 #ahfe #ea1jhf ,eickemeyer1 ,rudolf ,feb4 #bj1 #ahff #eb1fih ,hanlon1 ,john ,feb4 #bg1 #ahff #eb1hdg ,mc,curdy1 ,j4 ,s4 ,april #c1 #ahff #ec1gdc ,bartram1 ,w4 ,b4 ,may #ae1 #ahff #ed1fgj ,bartram1 ,w4 ,b4 ,may #ae1 #ahff #ed1fga ,goodspeed1 ,g4 ,n4 ,may #ae1 #ahff #ed1haf ,hayes1 ,j4 ,may #bb1 #ahff #ee1jbi ,mc,closkey1 ,john ,june #ai1 #ahff #ee1fhh ,house1 ,j4 ,a4 and ,h4 ,a4 ,june #bf1 #ahff #ee1hfe ,tucker1 ,joseph ,c4 ,july #bd1 #ahff #ef1fda ,warth1 ,albin ,july #bd1 #ahff #ef1fdf ,destouy1 ,a4 ,july #ca1 #ahff #ef1gbi ,schwalback1 ,m4 ,july #ca1 #ahff #ef1hje ,cately1 ,william ,h4 ,aug4 #g1 #ahff #ef1ijb ,piper1 ,d4 ,b4 ,aug4 #g1 #ahff #ef1iij ,leyden1 ,austin ,aug4 #ad1 #ahff #eg1aeg ,clements1 ,james ,m4 ,aug4 #ba1 #ahff #eg1dea ,davis1 ,job ,a4 ,oct4 #i1 #ahff #eh1fad ,rodier1 ,peter ,nov4 #ac1 #ahff #ei1fei ,duchemin1 ,wm4 ,nov4 #ac1 #ahff #ei1gae ,kilbourn1 ,e4 ,e4 ,nov4 #bj1 #ahff #ei1gdf ,reed1 ,t4 ,k4 ,dec4 #d1 #ahff #fj1bda ,singer1 ,i4 ,m4 ,dec4 #aa1 #ahff #fj1dcc ,bartram1 ,w4 ,b4 ,jan4 #a1 #ahfg #fj1ffi ,rehfuss1 ,g4 ,jan4 #h1 #ahfg #fa1ajb ,singer1 ,isaac ,jan4 #ae1 #ahfg #fa1bgj ,cajar1 ,emil ,feb4 #e1 #ahfg #fa1gaa ,craige1 ,e4 ,h4 ,feb4 #ai1 #ahfg #fb1ahf ,reed1 ,t4 ,k4 ,feb4 #ai1 #ahfg #fb1bhg ,bartram1 ,w4 ,b4 ,march #e1 #ahfg #fb1ebj ,fuller1 ,h4 ,w4 ,march #ai1 #ahfg #fc1jcc ,stannard1 ,m4 ,april #bc1 #ahfg #fd1ahd ,craige1 ,e4 ,h4 ,aug4 #ac1 #ahfg #fg1fce ,doll1 ,arnold ,sept4 #c1 #ahfg #fh1dbj ,bruen1 ,l4 ,b4 ,sept4 #ag1 #ahfg #fh1hci ,hodgkins1 ,c4 ,oct4 #h1 #ahfg #fi1fff ,baker1 ,g4 ,w4 ,oct4 #bi1 #ahfg #gj1aeb ,cadwell1 ,caleb ,nov4 #ai1 #ahfg #ga1aca ,fanning1 ,j4 ,dec4 #ca1 #ahfg #gb1hbi ,warth1 ,albin ,jan4 #g1 #ahfh #gc1jfd ,rehfuss1 ,george ,jan4 #g1 #ahfh #gc1aai ,cornely1 ,e4 ,jan4 #bh1 #ahfh #gc1fif ,blake1 ,l4 ,r4 ,feb4 #aa1 #ahfh #gd1bhi ,fales1 ,j4 ,f4 ,feb4 #aa1 #ahfh #gd1cbh ,jencks1 ,g4 ,l4 ,feb4 #ah1 #ahfh #gd1fid ,clark1 ,edwin ,e4 ,feb4 #be1 #ahfh #gd1gea ,halbert1 ,a4 ,w4 ,march #ca1 #ahfh #gf1jgf ,gritzner1 ,m4 ,c4 ,april #g1 #ahfh #gf1cbc ,bartlett1 ,joseph ,w4 ,april #g1 #ahfh #gf1che ,waterbury1 ,enos ,june #af1 #ahfh #gi1jcg ,cole1 ,w4 ,h4 ,june #cj1 #ahfh #gi1ddg ,lamson1 ,henry ,p4 ,july #g1 #ahfh #gi1egi ,french1 ,s4 ,july #bh1 #ahfh #hj1cde ,stein1 ,m4 ,j4 ,sept4 #h1 #ahfh #ha1ief ,hancock1 ,h4 ,j4 ,oct4 #bg1 #ahfh #hc1dib ,bartram1 ,w4 ,b4 ,nov4 #c1 #ahfh #hc1eib ,benedict1 ,c4 ,p4 ,nov4 #c1 #ahfh #hc1eif ,bonnaz1 ,a4 ,nov4 #aj1 #ahfh #hc1iji ,bonnaz1 ,a4 ,nov4 #aj1 #ahfh #hc1iaj ,elliott1 ,f4 ,jan4 #ai1 #ahfi #he1iah ,canfield1 ,f4 ,p4 ,jan4 #ai1 #ahfi #hf1jeg ,arnold ,b4 ,jan4 #bf1 #ahfi #hf1aba ,jones1 ,john ,jan4 #bf1 #ahfi #hf1afc ,russell1 ,w4 ,w4 ,feb4 #i1 #ahfi #hf1fie ,eldridge1 ,g4 ,w4 ,march #b1 #ahfi #hg1cca ,house1 ,j4 ,a4 and ,h4 ,a4 ,march #b1 #ahfi #hg1cch ,gird1 ,e4 ,d4 ,march #i1 #ahfi #hg1eei ,carpenter1 ,william ,march #i1 #ahfi #hg1fcc ,dunbar1 ,c4 ,f4 ,march #cj1 #ahfi #hh1bhb ,mc,lean1 ,j4 ,n4 ,march #cj1 #ahfi #hh1dii ,billings1 ,c4 ,e4 ,april #f1 #ahfi #hh1fjc ,winter1 ,wm4 ,april #ac1 #ahfi #hh1icf ,tittman1 ,a4 ,april #bj1 #ahfi #hi1jic ,swartwout1 ,h4 ,l4 ,april #bg1 #ahfi #hi1ceg ,lyons1 ,lucius ,april #bg1 #ahfi #hi1dhi ,crosby1 ,c4 ,o4 ,may #be1 #ahfi #ij1ejg ,gutmann1 ,j4 ,may #be1 #ahfi #ij1ebh ,duchemin1 ,william ,june #h1 #ahfi #ia1aja ,adams1 ,john ,q4 ,july #f1 #ahfi #ib1ach ,bond1 ,joseph1 ,jr4 ,aug4 #aj1 #ahfi #ic1ehh ,hoffman1 ,geo4 ,w4 ,aug4 #bd1 #ahfi #id1aab ,brown1 ,john ,h4 ,aug4 #ca1 #ahfi #id1chi ,heery1 ,luke ,sept4 #ad1 #ahfi #id1gdj ,gray1 ,joshua ,oct4 #e1 #ahfi #ie1eha ,smith1 ,e4 ,h4 ,oct4 #bf1 #ahfi #if1afj ,page1 ,chas4 ,nov4 #b1 #ahfi #if1cdc ,lyon1 ,lucius ,nov4 #i1 #ahfi #if1gac ,clever1 ,p4 ,j4 ,nov4 #af1 #ahfi #if1hhf ,mills1 ,daniel ,nov4 #af1 #ahfi #if1idd ,woodruff1 ,geo4 ,b41 and ,nov4 #af1 #ahfi #ig1jad ,browning1 ,geo4 ,keith1 ,jeremiah ,dec4 #g1 #ahfi #ig1eah ,hurtu1 ,auguste ,j41 and ,dec4 #ba1 #ahfi #ih1jfd ,hautin1 ,victor ,j4 ,lamb1 ,thomas ,dec4 #bh1 #ahfi #ih1cij ,rudolph1 ,b4 ,feb4 #a1 #ahgj #ii1dha ,porter1 ,alonzo ,feb4 #h1 #ahgj #ii1gjd ,smith1 ,w4 ,t4 ,feb4 #h1 #ahgj #ii1gdc ,meyers1 ,n4 ,feb4 #ae1 #ahgj #ii1ghc ,grover1 ,w4 ,o4 ,feb4 #bb1 #ahgj #ajj1aci ,spoehr1 ,f4 ,april #ab1 #ahgj #aja1ggi ,kendall1 ,george ,f4 ,april #ab1 #ahgj #aja1hhg ,cooney1 ,w4 ,april #bf1 #ahgj #ajb1bbf ,brown1 ,f4 ,h4 ,april #bf1 #ahgj #ajb1cff ,howard ,e41 and ,jackson1 ,w4 ,h4 ,may #ca1 #ahgj #ajc1gde ,bartram1 ,w4 ,b4 ,june #ad1 #ahgj #ajd1bdg ,henriksen1 ,h4 ,p4 ,june #ba1 #ahgj #ajd1eij ,martine1 ,charles ,f4 ,june #ba1 #ahgj #ajd1fab ,nasch1 ,isidor ,june #ba1 #ahgj #ajd1fcj ,hall1 ,l4 ,july #ab1 #ahgj #aje1cbi ,lyon1 ,lucius ,july #bf1 #ahgj #aje1hbj ,bennor1 ,joseph ,aug4 #i1 #ahgj #ajf1bdi ,barnes1 ,m4 ,m4 ,aug4 #af1 #ahgj #ajf1cjg ,leslie1 ,arthur ,m4 ,oct4 #ah1 #ahgj #ajh1dib ,rayer1 ,william ,a41and ,nov4 #a1 #ahgj #ajh1hbg ,lincoln1 ,wm4 ,s4 ,landfear1 ,wm4 ,r4 ,nov4 #bb1 #ahgj #aji1dbg ,parham1 ,charles ,nov4 #bb1 #ahgj #aji1ddc ,lamb1 ,i4 ,w4 ,nov4 #bi1 #ahgj #aji1fcb ,moreau1 ,eugene ,jan4 #c1 #ahga #aaj1ffi ,robinson1 ,charles ,e4 ,jan4 #c1 #ahga #aaj1gij ,goodyear1 ,charles1 ,jr4 ,jan4 #bd1 #ahga #aaa1aig ,stevens1 ,g41 and ,hendy1 ,j4 ,jan4 #ca1 #ahga #aaa1dhh ,carpenter1 ,mary ,p4 ,feb4 #ba1 #ahga #aab1jaf ,hancock1 ,henry ,j4 ,feb4 #ba1 #ahga #aab1jcc ,sidenberg1 ,w4 ,march #ad1 #ahga #aab1gde ,chase1 ,m4 ,april #aa1 #ahga #aac1dih ,stein1 ,m4 ,j4 ,april #aa1 #ahga #aac1eic ,tate1 ,wm4 ,j4 ,april #aa1 #ahga #aac1gjd ,house1 ,j4 ,a4 and ,h4 ,a4 ,may #b1 #ahga #aad1bid ,sidenberg1 ,w4 ,may #bc1 #ahga #aae1aag ,beuttels1 ,charles ,may #bc1 #ahga #aae1aee ,thompson1 ,g4 ,may #bc1 #ahga #aae1bee ,willcox and ,carleton ,june #bg1 #ahga #aaf1eba 7#c patents on #a machine7 #aaf1ebb #aaf1ebc ,willcox and ,carleton ,july #d1 #ahga #aaf1ghc ,goodyear1 ,charles1 ,jr4 ,july #aa1 #ahga #aaf1idg ,necker1 ,carl ,july #ah1 #ahga #aag1aja ,pitt1 ,james2 ,joseph2 ,july #ah1 #ahga #aag1bjc ,edward2 and ,wm4 ,jones1 ,john ,t4 ,aug4 #a1 #ahga #aag1fdj ,west1 ,e4 ,p4 ,aug4 #a1 #ahga #aag1gjh ,jones1 ,solomon ,aug4 #bi1 #ahga #aah1ecg 7#b patents on #a machine7 #aah1ech ,lamb1 ,thomas ,sept4 #e1 #ahga #aah1gbh ,bosworth1 ,c4 ,f4 ,jan4 #i1 #ahgb #abb1eee ,smyth1 ,d4 ,m4 ,jan4 #i1 #ahgb #abb1fgc ,fish1 ,warren ,l4 ,feb4 #ac1 #ahgb #abc1fbe ,palmer1 ,c4 ,h4 ,march #ai1 #ahgb #abd1fid ,baker1 ,g4 ,w4 ,april #i1 #ahgb #abe1cgd ,gordon and ,kinert ,april #af1 #ahgb #abe1hjg ,howard1 ,c4 ,w4 ,april #bc1 #ahgb #abf1jef 7second machine7 #abf1jeg ,smyth1 ,d4 ,m4 ,may #ad1 #ahgb #abf1hde ,beckwith1 ,w4 ,g4 ,may #ba1 #ahgb #abf1iba ,bouscay1 ,eloi1 ,jr4 ,may #bh1 #ahgb #abg1ade ,braundbeck1 ,e4 ,june #aa1 #ahgb #abg1fge ,heidenthal1 ,w4 ,june #aa1 #ahgb #abg1gfe ,cleminshaw1 ,s4 ,june #be1 #ahgb #abh1cfc ,wardwell1 ,s4 ,w41 ,jr4 ,july #b1 #ahgb #abh1fhd ,springer1 ,w4 ,a4 ,july #i1 #ahgb #abh1iai ,fanning1 ,john ,july #af1 #ahgb #abi1jac ,parks1 ,volney ,july #cj1 #ahgb #abi1iha ,baker1 ,g4 ,w4 ,july #cj1 #ahgb #acj1jje ,smyth1 ,d4 ,m4 ,aug4 #f1 #ahgb #acj1cbd ,mc,clure1 ,a4 ,t4 ,aug4 #ac1 #ahgb #acj1che ,ashe1 ,robert ,aug4 #bj1 #ahgb #acj1eee ,bartram1 ,w4 ,b4 ,aug4 #bj1 #ahgb #acj1eeg ,west1 ,elliot ,p4 ,aug4 #bj1 #ahgb #acj1fgd ,happe1 ,j41 and ,newman1 ,w4 ,aug4 #bj1 #ahgb #acj1gae ,hinds1 ,jesse ,l4 ,sept4 #aj1 #ahgb #aca1aff ,brown1 ,f4 ,h4 ,oct4 #a1 #ahgb #aca1gce ,beckwith1 ,w4 ,g4 ,nov4 #bf1 #ahgb #acc1cea ,turner1 ,s4 ,s4 ,dec4 #c1 #ahgb #acc1eec ,chandler1 ,r4 ,dec4 #aj1 #ahgb #acc1geg ,venner1 ,o4 ,dec4 #aj1 #ahgb #acc1had ,duchemin1 ,w4 ,jan4 #ba1 #ahgc #ace1jcb ,sheffield1 ,g4 ,v4 ,jan4 #ba1 #ahgc #ace1jdg ,parham1 ,charles ,feb4 #d1 #ahgc #ace1egi ,goodes1 ,e4 ,a4 ,march #aa1 #ahgc #acf1gah ,tittman1 ,a4 ,march #aa1 #ahgc #acf1gib ,happe1 ,j41 and ,newman1 ,w4 ,march #be1 #ahgc #acg1aii ,ragan1 ,daniel ,april #a1 #ahgc #acg1cba ,o',neil1 ,john ,april #h1 #ahgc #acg1fah ,kallmeyer1 ,g4 ,april #h1 #ahgc #acg1fhi ,ross1 ,j4 ,g41 and ,miller1 ,t4 ,l4 ,may #ac1 #ahgc #ach1gfd ,west1 ,elliott ,p4 ,may #ac1 #ahgc #ach1ggb ,koch and ,brass ,may #ac1 #ahgc #ach1hih ,arnold1 ,b4 ,may #bj1 #ahgc #ach1iha ,arnold1 ,b4 ,may #bj1 #ahgc #ach1ihb ,lathrop1 ,l4 ,w4 ,may #bj1 #ahgc #aci1jfg ,chandler1 ,rufus ,may #bg1 #ahgc #aci1cfh ,jones1 ,s4 ,h4 ,july #h1 #ahgc #adj1fca ,smyth1 ,d4 ,m4 ,july #bb1 #ahgc #ada1jhh ,wardwell1 ,s4 ,w41 ,jr4 ,july #bi1 #ahgc #ada1bde ,stewart1 ,j41 ,jr4 ,july #bi1 #ahgc #ada1cig ,walker1 ,william ,july #bi1 #ahgc #ada1djg ,blanchard1 ,helen ,a4 ,aug4 #ai1 #ahgc #ada1ihg ,springer1 ,w4 ,a4 ,aug4 #bf1 #ahgc #adb1bij ,cushman1 ,c4 ,s4 ,sept4 #b1 #ahgc #adb1ddb ,porter1 ,d4 ,a4 ,nov4 #be1 #ahgc #add1hfd ,koch ,brass ,dec4 #b1 #ahgc #ade1bae ,richardson1 ,e4 ,f4 ,dec4 #af1 #ahgc #ade1fhg ,weber1 ,theo4 ,a4 ,dec4 #bc1 #ahgc #ade1hbc ,scribner1 ,benjamin1 ,jr4 ,jan4 #ac1 #ahgd #adf1dhc ,black1 ,samuel ,s4 ,jan4 #bj1 #ahgd #adf1fdb ,taylor1 ,f4 ,b4 ,jan4 #bj1 #ahgd #adf1gba ,richardson1 ,everett ,p4 ,jan4 #bg1 #ahgd #adf1idh ,muir1 ,william ,feb4 #c1 #ahgd #adg1aeb ,goodes1 ,e4 ,a4 ,feb4 #aj1 #ahgd #adg1chg ,springer1 ,wm4 ,a4 ,feb4 #aj1 #ahgd #adg1dda ,true1 ,c4 ,b4 ,march #aj1 #ahgd #adh1ccf ,wardwell1 ,s4 ,w41 ,jr4 ,march #aj1 #ahgd #adh1cci ,shorey1 ,samuel ,w4 ,march #ag1 #ahgd #adh1gfe ,smith1 ,james ,h4 ,march #bd1 #ahgd #adh1ijb ,horr1 ,addison ,d4 ,april #ba1 #ahgd #adi1hfb ,page1 ,chas4 ,may #e1 #ahgd #aej1dgi ,crane1 ,thomas ,may #e1 #ahgd #aej1ecb ,buhr1 ,j4 ,may #bf1 #ahgd #aea1bgb ,smyth1 ,d4 ,m4 ,june #i1 #ahgd #aea1hja ,wensley1 ,james ,june #af1 #ahgd #aeb1jee ,dinsmore1 ,a4 ,s41 and ,june #cj1 #ahgd #aeb1fah ,carter1 ,john ,t4 ,speirs1 ,j4 ,july #g1 #ahgd #aeb1hac ,brewer1 ,a4 ,g4 ,july #ad1 #ahgd #aeb1hid ,baglin1 ,wm4 ,aug4 #ah1 #ahgd #aed1aac ,howard1 ,e4 ,l4 ,aug4 #be1 #ahgd #aed1dhe ,landfear1 ,wm4 ,r4 ,sept4 #bb1 #ahgd #aee1aic ,drake1 ,ellis ,oct4 #ac1 #ahgd #aee1icb ,barney1 ,samuel ,c4 ,oct4 #bj1 #ahgd #aef1aai ,moreau1 ,eugene ,oct4 #bj1 #ahgd #aef1aga ,huntington1 ,thomas ,s4 ,dec4 #bi1 #ahgd #aeh1bad ,bartlett and ,plant ,jan4 #bf1 #ahge #aei1jfe ,garland1 ,h4 ,p4 ,feb4 #af1 #ahge #aei1hab ,dinsmore1 ,alfred ,s4 ,march #i1 #ahge #afj1eab ,mc,closkey1 ,john ,march #cj1 #ahge #afa1ecd ,schmidt1 ,albert ,e4 ,april #bg1 #ahge #afb1fig ,darling ,darling ,may #be1 #ahge #afc1fci ,richardson1 ,everett ,p4 ,july #ac1 #ahge #afe1ejf ,whitehill1 ,robert ,july #bg1 #ahge #aff1agb ,weber1 ,theodore ,a4 ,aug4 #c1 #ahge #aff1bcf ,pearson1 ,wm4 ,aug4 #ag1 #ahge #aff1hje ,beckwith1 ,william ,g4 ,sept4 #g1 #ahge #afg1chb ,hall1 ,john ,s4 ,oct4 #aa1 #ahge #afh1fcg ,jones1 ,j4 ,t4 ,oct4 #bf1 #ahge #afi1ajf ,garland1 ,h4 ,p4 ,oct4 #bf1 #ahge #afi1afc ,wormald ,dobson ,nov4 #i1 #ahge #afi1hha ,rose1 ,r4 ,m4 ,nov4 #cj1 #ahge #agj1eif ,keith1 ,jeremiah ,dec4 #g1 #ahge #agj1gda ,keith1 ,t4 ,k4 ,dec4 #ad1 #ahge #agj1iee ,leavitte1 ,albert ,dec4 #ad1 #ahge #aga1adg ,toll1 ,charles ,f4 ,dec4 #ad1 #ahge #aga1aic ,keats1 ,greenwood1 ,keats ,dec4 #bh1 #ahge #aga1fbb ,thayer1 ,augustus ,jan4 #aa1 #ahgf #agb1bje ,frese1 ,b4 ,jan4 #ah1 #ahgf #agb1cjh ,pearson1 ,william ,jan4 #ah1 #ahgf #agb1dgh ,sawyer ,esty ,feb4 #bi1 #ahgf #agd1aei ,porter ,baker ,march #ad1 #ahgf #agd1gjc ,walker1 ,william ,april #aa1 #ahgf #agf1aja ,upson1 ,l4 ,a4 ,april #ah1 #ahgf #agf1aec ,witherspoon1 ,s4 ,a4 ,april #ah1 #ahgf #agf1baa ,rice1 ,t4 ,m4 ,april #be1 #ahgf #agf1fhf ,murphy1 ,e4 ,may #b1 #ahgf #agf1hhj ,bradford1 ,e4 ,f41 and ,may #af1 #ahgf #agg1cga ,pierce1 ,v4 ,r4 ,applegate ,webb ,may #be1 #ahgf #agg1ghd ,sullivan1 ,john ,j4 ,june #bg1 #ahgf #agi1bcb ,appleton1 ,c4 ,j41 and ,july #d1 #ahgf #agi1ddj ,sibley1 ,j4 ,j4 ,marin1 ,chas4 ,july #aa1 #ahgf #agi1gji ,gullransen1 ,p4 ,e41 and ,july #be1 #ahgf #ahj1bbe ,rettinger1 ,j4 ,c4 ,butcher1 ,joseph ,aug4 #a1 #ahgf #ahj1edb ,jackson1 ,william ,sept4 #e1 #ahgf #aha1ida ,barton1 ,kate ,c4 ,sept4 #ab1 #ahgf #ahb1jif ,eickemeyer1 ,rudolf ,sept4 #ab1 #ahgf #ahb1ahb ,webster1 ,w4 ,sept4 #ab1 #ahgf #ahb1bdi ,knoch1 ,c4 ,f4 ,oct4 #ag1 #ahgf #ahc1djj ,cushman1 ,c4 ,s4 ,nov4 #ba1 #ahgf #ahd1eid ,harris1 ,david ,dec4 #ab1 #ahgf #ahe1bbh ,wood1 ,j4 ,dec4 #bf1 #ahgf #ahe1haa ,oram1 ,henry ,jan4 #b1 #ahgg #ahe1ieb ,palmer1 ,frank ,l4 ,jan4 #b1 #ahgg #ahe1ied ,hall1 ,john ,s4 ,feb4 #f1 #ahgg #ahg1jjf ,palmateer1 ,william ,a4 ,feb4 #bj1 #ahgg #ahg1dgi ,cummins1 ,william ,g4 ,feb4 #bg1 #ahgg #ahg1hbb ,esty1 ,william ,feb4 #bg1 #ahgg #ahg1hcg ,leavitt ,drew ,feb4 #bg1 #ahgg #ahg1hgd ,henriksen1 ,h4 ,p4 ,march #bj1 #ahgg #ahh1eae ,mc,kay1 ,gordon ,march #bg1 #ahgg #ahh1hji ,follett1 ,j4 ,l4 ,april #aj1 #ahgg #ahi1ddf ,bond1 ,james1 ,jr4 ,april #ag1 #ahgg #ahi1eii ,jacob1 ,f4 ,april #bd1 #ahgg #aij1jdg ,beck1 ,a4 ,may #a1 #ahgg #aij1ahd ,hallett1 ,h4 ,h4 ,june #e1 #ahgg #aia1ehd ,randel1 ,william ,june #ab1 #ahgg #aib1jjh ,corbett1 ,e41 and ,harlow1 ,c4 ,f4 ,july #c1 #ahgg #aib1efh ,brown1 ,f4 ,h4 ,july #bd1 #ahgg #aic1dgg ,melhuish1 ,r4 ,m4 ,aug4 #bh1 #ahgg #aid1faj ,atwood1 ,k4 ,c4 ,sept4 #d1 #ahgg #aid1gei ,macaulay1 ,f4 ,a4 ,oct4 #i1 #ahgg #aie1ici ,dimond1 ,george ,h4 ,oct4 #af1 #ahgg #aif1aih ,sedmihradsky1 ,a4 ,j4 ,oct4 #bc1 #ahgg #aif1dhf ,keith1 ,j4 ,nov4 #f1 #ahgg #aif1hji ,beck1 ,august ,nov4 #f1 #ahgg #aif1hfc ,keith1 ,t4 ,h4 ,nov4 #f1 #ahgg #aif1iji ,keats1 ,john ,dec4 #aa1 #ahgg #aih1abj ,briggs1 ,thomas ,jan4 #a1 #ahgh #aih1gij ,corey1 ,j4 ,w4 ,jan4 #h1 #ahgh #aih1igj ,howard1 ,t4 ,s4 ,l4 ,jan4 #ae1 #ahgh #aii1bjf ,bosworth1 ,c4 ,f4 ,jan4 #bb1 #ahgh #aii1ejj ,dancel1 ,c4 ,jan4 #bi1 #ahgh #aii1hjb ,pearson1 ,m4 ,h4 ,feb4 #e1 #ahgh #aii1iia ,morrell1 ,robert ,w42 ,april #bc1 #ahgh #bjb1heg ,parkinson1 ,thomas2 and ,parkinson1 ,joseph ,barcellos1 ,d4 ,april #cj1 #ahgh #bjc1ajb ,elderfield1 ,f4 ,d4 ,june #d1 #ahgh #bjd1dbi ,heberling1 ,j4 ,june #d1 #ahgh #bjd1fjd ,beukler1 ,william ,june #aa1 #ahgh #bjd1gjd ,varicas1 ,l4 ,june #aa1 #ahgh #bjd1hfd ,stewart1 ,w4 ,t4 ,july #b1 #ahgh #bje1fih ,house1 ,jas4 ,a4 ,july #bc1 #ahgh #bjf1bci ,martin1 ,w41 ,jr42 ,dawson1 ,d4 ,r42 ,aug4 #f1 #ahgh #bjf1gdc and ,orchar1 ,r4 ,conklin1 ,n4 ,a4 ,aug4 #f1 #ahgh #bjf1ggd ,wollenberg1 ,h41 and ,priesner1 ,j4 ,aug4 #f1 #ahgh #bjf1hdh ,young1 ,e4 ,s41 and ,dimond1 ,g4 ,h4 ,aug4 #ac1 #ahgh #bjf1iib ,hoffman1 ,clara ,p41 and ,aug4 #ac1 #ahgh #bjg1jce ,meyers1 ,nicholas ,wensley1 ,jas4 ,aug4 #bj1 #ahgh #bjg1bcj ,dimond1 ,g4 ,h4 ,aug4 #bg1 #ahgh #bjg1djj ,steward1 ,a4 ,aug4 #bg1 #ahgh #bjg1ded ,wood1 ,richard ,g4 ,sept4 #aj1 #ahgh #bjg1ibh ,mc,combs1 ,geo4 ,f4 ,sept4 #bd1 #ahgh #bjh1djg ,keith1 ,jeremiah ,oct4 #bb1 #ahgh #bji1abf ,wells1 ,w4 ,w4 ,nov4 #ab1 #ahgh #bji1hdc ,bayley1 ,c4 ,h4 ,feb4 #aa1 #ahgi #bab1abb ,parmenter1 ,charles ,o4 ,feb4 #ah1 #ahgi #bab1die ,ingalls1 ,n41 ,jr4 ,feb4 #be1 #ahgi #bab1fjb ,cleminshaw1 ,s4 ,march #ah1 #ahgi #bac1cia ,webb1 ,t41 and ,heartfield1 ,c4 ,h4 ,march #be1 #ahgi #bac1ecg ,borton1 ,stockton ,april #h1 #ahgi #bad1jhi ,henriksen1 ,h4 ,p4 ,may #bj1 #ahgi #bae1fae ,bland1 ,henry ,june #c1 #ahgi #baf1jaf ,morrison1 ,t4 ,w4 ,june #aj1 #ahgi #baf1bhi ,bosworth1 ,charles ,f4 ,june #ag1 #ahgi #baf1ejd ,simmons1 ,frederick ,june #bd1 #ahgi #baf1ijb ,junker1 ,carl ,july #a1 #ahgi #bag1aab ,legat1 ,dsir ,mathurin ,aug4 #ab1 #ahgi #bah1chh ,willcox1 ,c4 ,h4 ,aug4 #ab1 #ahgi #bah1dac ,cornely1 ,emile ,sept4 #b1 #ahgi #bai1bbe ,hamm1 ,e4 ,sept4 #af1 #ahgi #bai1egh ,tuttle1 ,j4 ,w41 and ,keith1 ,t4 ,k4 ,sept4 #af1 #ahgi #bai1ghb ,stackpole1 ,g41 and ,oct4 #g1 #ahgi #bbj1cad ,applegate1 ,j4 ,h4 ,otis1 ,s4 ,l4 ,oct4 #bh1 #ahgi #bba1jic ,bland1 ,h4 ,nov4 #aa1 #ahgi #bba1eje ,bracher1 ,t4 ,w4 ,nov4 #aa1ahgi #bba1ejh ,snediker1 ,j4 ,f4 ,nov4 #be1 #ahgi #bbb1jhi ,mooney1 ,j4 ,h4 ,dec4 #b1 #ahgi #bbb1bih ,osborne1 ,j4 ,h4 ,feb4 #c1 #ahhj #bbd1bai ,smith1 ,w4 ,m4 ,march #b1 #ahhj #bbe1aii ,banks1 ,c4 ,m4 ,march #bc1 #ahhj #bbe1ghd ,haberling1 ,j4 ,may #d1 #ahhj #bbg1bdi ,haberling1 ,j4 ,may #aa1 #ahhj #bbg1ebe ,wiseman1 ,edmund ,june #h1 #ahhj #bbh1gaa ,juengst1 ,george ,june #ae1 #ahhj #bbh1hbj ,morley1 ,j4 ,h4 ,june #ae1 #ahhj #bbh1iah ,curtis1 ,g4 ,h4 ,w4 ,june #bb1 #ahhj #bbh1ihe ,lipe1 ,c4 ,e4 ,june #bi1 #ahhj #bbi1cbb ,miller1 ,l4 ,b41 and ,diehl1 ,p4 ,july #f1 #ahhj #bbi1fbi ,willcox1 ,c4 ,h4 ,july #bj1 #ahhj #bcj1bab ,shaw1 ,e4 ,july #bg1 #ahhj #bcj1ehj ,dinsmore1 ,a4 ,s4 ,aug4 #ag1 #ahhj #bca1aee ,thurston1 ,c4 ,h4 ,oct4 #ab1 #ahhj #bca1cjj ,butcher1 ,j4 ,oct4 #bf1 #ahhj #bcc1feg ,smyth1 ,d4 ,m4 ,nov4 #bc1 #ahhj #bcd1gcb ,hesse1 ,j4 ,dec4 #g1 #ahhj #bce1jhe ,kjalman1 ,h4 ,n4 ,dec4 #ba1 #ahhj #bce1ghc ,morley1 ,j4 ,h4 ,jan4 #d1 #ahha #bcf1cej ,thomas1 ,j4 ,jan4 #aa1 #ahha #bcf1dff ,benson1 ,g4 ,march #h1 #ahha #bch1eef ,green1 ,g4 ,f4 ,march #h1 #ahha #bch1fgh ,eickemeyer1 ,rudolf ,march #bi1 #ahha #bci1cai ,palmer1 ,c4 ,h4 ,april #bf1 #ahha #bdj1geh ,campbell1 ,d4 ,h4 ,may #ag1 #ahha #bda1fab ,campbell1 ,duncan ,h4 ,may #ag1 #ahha #bda1fac ,leslie1 ,a4 ,m4 ,may #bd1 #ahha #bda1hjh ,newell1 ,george ,f4 ,june #g1 #ahha #bdb1dgj ,gritzner1 ,max ,c4 ,june #bh1 #ahha #bdc1ddd ,keith1 ,jeremiah ,july #e1 #ahha #bdc1gaj ,choquette1 ,a4 ,e4 ,july #ab1 #ahha #bdd1jcc ,mooney1 ,j4 ,h4 ,july #ai1 #ahha #bdd1dgj ,beardslee1 ,w4 ,f4 ,aug4 #af1 #ahha #bde1gha ,hine1 ,charlie ,m4 ,aug4 #bc1 #ahha #bdf1acf ,willcox1 ,c4 ,h4 ,sept4 #f1 #ahha #bdf1gjj ,hoefler1 ,j4 ,sept4 #ac1 #ahha #bdf1hhc ,woodward1 ,e4 ,sept4 #bj1 #ahha #bdg1bhe ,richards1 ,jean ,e4 ,jan4 #bd1 #ahhb #beb1gii ,abbott1 ,w4 ,w4 ,jan4 #ca1 #ahhb #beb1ihd ,secor1 ,j4 ,b4 ,feb4 #ad1 #ahhb #bec1ggb ,deschamps1 ,o4 ,l4 ,feb4 #ba1 #ahhb #bec1iae ,hull1 ,e4 ,h4 ,feb4 #bh1 #ahhb #bed1bag ,roberts1 ,william ,march #g1 #ahhb #bed1fif ,willcox and ,borton ,march #bh1 #ahhb #bee1egf ,borton and ,willcox ,march #bh1 #ahhb #bee1egg ,borton and ,willcox ,march #bh1 #ahhb #bee1ehj ,borton and ,willcox ,march #bh1 #ahhb #bee1eha ,veukler1 ,w4 ,april #d1 #ahhb #bee1iaf ,hurtu1 ,a4 ,j4 ,may #cj1 #ahhb #beh1gfa ,keats1 ,alphonso ,july #aa1 #ahhb #bfj1iij ,ramsden1 ,john ,w4 ,aug4 #a1 #ahhb #bfb1aaf ,koch1 ,william ,aug4 #h1 #ahhb #bfb1bih ,bigelow1 ,j4 ,aug4 #bi1 #ahhb #bfc1dfg ,mills1 ,daniel ,oct4 #aj1 #ahhb #bfe1hej ,wilkinson1 ,charles ,e4 ,dec4 #ai1 #ahhb #bfi1bea ,carlisle1 ,w4 ,s4 ,jan4 #i1 #ahhc #bgj1edj ,holden1 ,o4 ,j41 and ,griswold1 ,l4 ,feb4 #ac1 #ahhc #bgb1jej ,cameron1 ,james ,w4 ,feb4 #bj1 #ahhc #bgb1ebg ,miller1 ,l4 ,b41 and ,diehl1 ,p4 ,march #bj1 #ahhc #bgd1cei ,ludeke1 ,w4 ,april #aj1 #ahhc #bge1ejf ,bolton1 ,j41 and ,petnz1 ,a4 ,d4 ,may #h1 #ahhc #bgg1ajf ,blodgett1 ,john ,w4 ,june #ab1 #ahhc #bgi1cbj ,haberling1 ,j4 ,sept4 #d1 #ahhc #bhd1cjj ,thimonnier1 ,e41 and ,vernaz1 ,c4 ,oct4 #cj1 #ahhc #bhg1eib ,duchemin1 ,william ,nov4 #bj1 #ahhc #bhh1ibi ,lawrence1 ,g4 ,h4 ,dec4 #be1 #ahhc #bij1hie ,clever1 ,peter ,j4 ,april #h1 #ahhd #bif1ebi ,palmer1 ,john ,h4 ,may #f1 #ahhd #bih1bbh ,dowling1 ,james1 and ,may #bg1 #ahhd #bii1aah ,connolly1 ,john ,boecher1 ,adam ,june #aj1 #ahhd #cjj1aii ,luedeke1 ,waldemar ,june #ag1 #ahhd #cjj1chj ,van,vechten1 ,orville ,r4 ,july #ae1 #ahhd #cjb1jfc ,carr1 ,wm4 ,h41 and ,ostrom1 ,f4 ,w4 ,aug4 #ab1 #ahhd #cjc1cfa ,trip1 ,j4 ,dec4 #b1 #ahhd #cjh1gaa ,farrar1 ,arthur ,dec4 #cj1 #ahhd #cji1hcg ,turner1 ,m4 ,g4 ,feb4 #ag1 #ahhe #cab1cjf ,mills1 ,d4 ,march #c1 #ahhe #cac1cei ,hurtu1 ,august ,j4 ,april #g1 #ahhe #cae1jcg ,charmbury1 ,henry ,april #bh1 #ahhe #caf1gde ,woodward ,keith ,april #bh1 #ahhe #caf1ibg ,walker1 ,william ,june #af1 #ahhe #cbj1jii ,tucker1 ,r4 ,d4 ,june #bc1 #ahhe #cbj1hih ,wheeler and ,dial ,oct4 #ac1 #ahhe #cbh1afe ,thomas1 ,joseph ,nov4 #aj1 #ahhe #ccj1agj ,muegge1 ,c4 ,a4 ,dec4 #h1 #ahhe #ccb1bjg ,diehl1 ,p4 ,april #ac1 #ahhf #cci1fbc ,diehl1 ,p4 ,aug4 #bd1 #ahhf #cdg1ggf ,helwig1 ,arthur ,oct4 #e1 #ahhf #cej1cfd ,miehling1 ,charles ,nov4 #b1 #ahhf #cea1iib ,dieterle1 ,h4 ,e4 ,nov4 #cj1 #ahhf #cec1edb ,walker1 ,william ,dec4 #g1 #ahhf #cec1gbj ,rosenthal1 ,s4 ,a4 ,dec4 #g1 #ahhf #cec1igj ,temple1 ,john ,feb4 #bb1 #ahhg #ceh1jhh ,gee1 ,w4 ,v4 ,april #ai1 #ahhg #cfa1djf ,lingley1 ,john ,w4 ,aug4 #af1 #ahhg #cfh1ech ,boppel1 ,jacob ,jan4 #bi1 #ahhi #cif1igi ,webster1 ,william ,april #cj1 #ahhi #djb1dig ,osterhout and ,hallenbeck ,may #g1 #ahhi #djb1faj ,bennett and ,dowling ,aug4 #bg1 #ahhi #dji1gbh ,hine1 ,charles ,m4 ,jan4 #bh1 #ahij #dbj1chb ,wheeler1 ,nathaniel ,feb4 #d1 #ahij #dbj1hdg ,hallenbeck1 ,j4 ,p4 ,april #h1 #ahij #dbe1dbb ,lisle1 ,myron ,c4 ,may #bj1 #ahij #dbh1aga ,walker and ,bennet ,may #bj1 #ahij #dbh1edh ,stewart1 ,james1 ,jr4 ,july #ae1 #ahij #dcb1ddi ,dewees1 ,j4 ,w4 ,july #bb1 #ahij #dcb1gdf ,powell1 ,thomas ,dec4 #af1 #ahij #ddb1fie ,fletcher1 ,james ,h4 ,dec4 #cj1 #ahij #ddc1gef ,rudolph1 ,ernst ,b41 deceased1 ,april #g1 #ahia #ddi1ibg ,boulter1 ,w4 ,e41 administrator ,goodwin1 ,julius ,c4 ,april #ba1 #ahia #dej1gic ,cook1 ,hugo ,june #bc1 #ahia #ded1faj ,bowyer1 ,j4 ,t4 ,june #bc1 #ahia #ded1gjh ,willcox1 ,c4 ,h41 and ,borton1 ,s4 ,april #e1 #ahib #dgb1jid ,legg and ,weston ,may #ag1 #ahib #dgd1hdj ,kern1 ,ferdinand ,july #ai1 #ahib #dgi1cfi ,jackson1 ,francis ,may #a1 #ahid #eai1jfd ,charles ,abercrombi ,june #e1 #ahib #ebj1igg ,taft1 ,j4 ,c4 ,oct4 #ae1 #ahie #edg1hff ,,iv4 #aith-,century ,sewing-,machine ,leaflets in the ,smithsonian ,collections ,machine or ,manufacturer ,date ,type ,american ,b4,h4,o4 and ,sewing ,machine #ahgd ,illustrated1 advertising leaflet ,buckeye sewing machine ca4 #ahgj ,illustrated1 directions for using the machine ,new ,buckeye ca4 #ahgb ,illustrated1 directions for using the machine ,centennial sewing machine #ahgf ,illustrated1 advertising leaflet ,domestic sewing machine #ahgb ,illustrated1 advertising leaflet ,florence sewing machine #ahgc ,illustrated1 advertising leaflet ,florence sewing machine #ahgh ,illustrated1 directions for using the machine ,goodes sewing machine ca4 #ahgf ,advertising leaflet ,grant ,brothers sewing machine #ahfg ,illustrated1 advertising leaflet 7,xerox copy7 ,grover and ,baker sewing machine #ahec ,illustrated1 advertising leaflet ,grover and ,baker sewing machine ca4 #ahgj ,illustrated1 advertising leaflet ,home sewing machine ca4 #ahgj ,illustrated1 advertising leaflet ,howe sewing machine1 new ,b machine #ahfh ,illustrated1 instruction booklet ,howe sewing machine #ahgf ,illustrated1 catalog of machines ,independent ,noiseless sewing machine ca4 #ahgd ,illustrated1 advertising leaflet ,ladd1 ,webster sewing machine #ahfa ,illustrated1 advertising leaflet ,little ,monitor sewing machine ca4 #ahgb ,illustrated1 advertising leaflet ,remington ,family sewing machine ca4 #ahgd ,illustrated1 advertising leaflet ,shaw and ,clark sewing machine #ahfd ,illustrated1 advertising leaflet ,singer sewing machine #ahga ,illustrated1 advertising leaflet ,singer sewing machine #ahic ,catalog of machines shown at the ,columbian ,exposition ,standard ,shuttle sewing machine ca4 #ahge ,illustrated1 advertising leaflet ,ten ,dollar ,novelty sewing machine ca4 #ahgj ,illustrated1 advertising leaflet ,weed sewing machine #ahgc ,illustrated1 advertising leaflet ,wheeler and ,wilson sewing machine ca4 #ahfi ,illustrated1 instruction booklet ,wheeler and ,wilson sewing machine ca4 #ahgj-ahge ,illustrated1 advertising leaflet ,wheeler and ,wilson no4 #h machine ca4 #ahgh ,illustrated1 instruction booklet ,wilson sewing machine #ahgb ,illustrated1 advertising leaflet ,v4 ,a ,brief ,history of ,cotton ,thread ,although ,samuel ,slater's wife is credited with making the first cotton sewing thread from yarns spun at the ,pawtucket1 ,rhode ,island1 mill in about #agid1 cotton thread did not become a manufactured item at that time4 ,slater turned all his interests to producing cotton-twist yarns needed for the warps of cotton fabrics4 ,by #ahji1 however1 the agents of ,almy and ,brown1 partners and distributors for ,slater1 were advertising cotton thread as follows3 ,factory ,cotton and ,thread ,store1 ,no4 #bf ,court ,street opposite ,concert ,hall4 ,george ,connell1 ,agent for ,almy and ,brown of ,providence and ,pawtucket ,manufactories1 has now for sale from eight to ten thousand weight of yarn1 for weaving 444 five hundred pounds cotton thread1 in hanks1 from ,no4 #ab to #fj of a superior quality and very white4#ia ,although it was a short hop from the spinning of cotton warps to the twisting of these cotton yarns to form a sewing thread1 the general manufacture of cotton thread as an industry did not originate in the ,united ,states but rather in ,scotland in the early #aith century4 ,napoleon's blockade1 which curtailed ,great ,britain's importation of silk--needed not only for fabrics but also for making heddle strings for the looms--stimulated the production of cotton thread there4 ,james and ,patrick ,clark1 in desperation1 attempted to substitute cotton for silk in their manufacture of these heddle strings4 ,when they were successful1 they considered that if cotton could be used successfully for this purpose it could also be made suitable for sewing thread4 ,in #ahab they built a factory in ,paisley1 ,scotland1 which had long been noted for its textile industries4 ,the thread was sold in hanks4 ,about #ahbj ,james' sons1 ,james and ,john1 who were now running ,j4 ,j4 ,clark ,co41 began to wind the thread on spools4 ,for this service they charged an extra halfpenny1 which was refunded when the empty spool was returned4 ,the thread was usually a three-ply or so-called three-cord thread4 ,about #ahae ,james ,coats1 also of ,paisley1 started manufacturing thread at ,ferguslie1 ,scotland4 ,his two sons took over the company in #ahbf and formed the ,j4 ,p4 ,coats ,company4 ,another brother1 ,andrew ,coats1 became the selling agent in the ,united ,states about #ahdj4 ,but the cotton-thread industry was not fully launched4 ,as reported in an #ahec ,scientific ,american1 there was more ,american thread made ten years ago than there is today4#ib ,it was not until the six-cord cabled cotton thread1 which was suitable for both machine and hand sewing1 was perfected that the industry progressed into full operation4 ,,footnotes3 #ia ,william ,r4 ,bagnall1 ,textile ,industries of the ,united ,states 7,cambridge1 ,mass41 #ahic71 vol4 #a1 p4 #afd4 ,,vi4 ,biographical ,sketches ,,barthelemy ,,thimonnier ,the first man known to have put a sewing machine into practical operation1 ,barthelemy ,thimonnier1 was a ,frenchman of obscure parentage4 ,his father1 a textile dyer of ,lyon1 left that city in #agic as a result of the ,revolution and journeyed with his family to l',arbresle where ,barthelemy was born in ,august of that year4 ,the family resources were small1 and1 although the young ,thimonnier was able to begin studies at the ,seminaire de ,saint-,jean at ,lyons1 he soon was forced to leave school for financial reasons and return to his home1 then at ,amplepuis4 ,there he learned the tailoring trade and by #ahac was fairly well established in his own shop4 ,at that time many of the town's inhabitants were weavers and almost every house possessed one or two looms4 ,the noise of the shuttle echoed from these family workshops4 ,thimonnier noted the relatively small amount of time needed to weave a fabric compared with the slow painstaking task of sewing a garment by passing the needle in and out for each stitch of each seam4 ,when his mind began to dwell on the idea of producing a machine to do this stitching1 another of the town's occupations supplied him with a clue and an additional incentive4 ,this village industry produced a type of embroidery work called point de chainette1 in which a needle with a small hook was used to form the chainstitch1 a popular type of decorative stitch long used in countries all over the world4 ,it was ,thimonnier's plan to use this type of hooked needle and produce the stitch by machine1 employing it both as a decorative stitch and a seam-forming one4 ,in #ahbe ,thimonnier moved to ,st4 ,etienne1 where he became completely absorbed in the idea of inventing a sewing machine4 ,ignorant of any of the principles of mechanics1 he worked alone and in secret for four years1 neglecting his tailoring business to the extent that neighbors looked upon him as peculiar1 if not crazy4 ,by #ahbi he had not only mastered the mechanical difficulties of bringing his dream to realization1 but also had made the acquaintance of the man who helped him to success4 ,ferrand1 of l',ecole des ,mines of ,saint-,etienne1 became interested in the machine and helped finance ,thimonnier through his trials and disappointments4 ,in #ahcj ,thimonnier received a patent on his machine1 which produced the chainstitch by means of a needle shaped like a small crochet hook4 ,illustration3 ,figure #acc4--;,,barthelemy ,,thimonnier1 #agic-aheg4 ,from an engraving in the ,sewing ,machine ,advance1 ,november #ae1 #ahhj4 7,smithsonian photo #ajefi-;,a47 ,thimonnier1 together with ,ferrand and a ,m4 ,beaunier1 made attempts to introduce his machine in ,paris4 ,by #ahda they were successful in having eighty of ,thimonnier's machines in use sewing army clothing in a shop in ,paris4 ,but the fears of the tailors could not be quieted4 ,the machines were destroyed by an ignorant and infuriated mob1 as had been earlier labor-saving devices such as the ,jacquard attachment for the loom and ,hargreaves' spinning jenny4 ,thimonnier was forced to flee to his home in ,st4 ,etienne1 once more penniless4 ,soon after this1 ,jean ,marie ,magnin1 an engineer from ,villefranche-sur-,sane became interested in ,thimonnier's machine and provided the inventor again with financial backing4 ,in #ahde under the name of ,thimonnier and ,magnin the patent of #ahcj was renewed1 and under it they organized the first ,french sewing-machine company4 ,the machines they manufactured could produce #bjj stitches per minute4 ,the ,revolution of #ahdh curtailed the manufacture and sale of the machines4 ,thimonnier1 remembering his unpleasant experience in #ahda1 decided to go to ,england with ,magnin1 where1 on ,february #h1 #ahdh1 they received the ,english patent for his chainstitch machine4 ,he was also granted ,united ,states patent #g1fbb on ,september #bj1 #ahej4 ,this later machine had some advantages over his ,french machine of #ahcj1 but by this time other inventors had joined the field with machines that were more practical4 ,magnin entered a sewing machine 7which from the description in the catalog must have been ,thimonnier's invention7 in the ,crystal ,palace ,exhibition in ,london in #ahej1 but because it was late in arriving it was overlooked by the judges and not even considered in the competition4 ,thimonnier died in poverty at ,amplepuis on ,july #e1 #aheg4 ,,walter ,,hunt ,walter ,hunt was born near ,martinsburg1 ,new ,york1 on ,july #bi1 #agif4 ,although little is known of ,hunt's early childhood1 we do learn from the author of his obituary1 which appeared in ,scientific ,american1 ,july #i1 #ahfj1 that even as a child he was more interested in people and what he could do for them than in what he could do to insure his own welfare4 ,he is said to have devoted his life to his friends1 frequently giving away his last cent when he did not have enough to provide for himself4 ,there is no record that ,hunt maintained a regular business other than the occupation of inventor4 ,his interests were numerous and varied4 ,he received his first patent on ,june #bf1 #ahbf1 for a machine for spinning flax and hemp4 ,during the next #cc years he patented #bf ideas4 ,in addition he sold or dropped several more4 ,his second patent was for a coach alarm1 and through the years he also received patents for a variety of things including a knife sharpener1 heating stove1 ice boat1 nail machine1 inkwell1 fountain pen1 safety pin1 bottle stopper1 sewing machine 7#ahed71 paper collars1 and a reversible metallic heel4 ,illustration3 ,figure #acd4--,,walter ,,hunt1 #agif-ahfj4 ,from a daguerreotype owned by his great-grandson1 ,c4 ,n4 ,hunt4 7,smithsonian photo #cbjff-;,a47 ,,elias ,,howe1 ,,jr4 ,elias ,howe1 ,jr41 was born on his father's farm in ,spencer1 ,massachusetts1 on ,july #i1 #ahai4 ,this was one of those barren ,new ,england farms with many rock-filled acres4 ,all possible ingenuity was necessary to secure a living4 ,the elder ,howe supplemented his farming by having a small gristmill1 a sawmill1 and also by manufacturing cards for the fast-growing cotton industry of ,new ,england4 ,elias ,jr4's earliest recollections were of the latter4 ,he worked with his brothers and sisters sticking wire teeth into strips of leather to make these cotton cards1 but1 not being very good at this1 his family decided to let him live out with a neighboring farmer4 7,children were leased in those days2 they received their board and keep in exchange for chores they would perform47 ,after a few years1 ,elias returned home and worked in his father's mill until he was sixteen4 ,then1 against the wishes of his family1 he went to ,lowell1 ,massachusetts4 ,here1 he obtained a learner's place in a machine shop where cotton-spinning machinery was made and repaired4 ,in #ahcg1 when a financial panic hit the country1 ,howe lost his job4 ,he then decided to go to ,boston1 and this marked a turning point in his career4 ,in ,boston he met ,ari ,davis1 a maker of mariners' instruments and scientific apparatus4 ,howe began to work in ,davis' shop1 a place to which inventors often came to ask advice about their ideas4 ,davis sometimes helped them1 but just as often he shouted at them in anger--he is said to have been one of the noisiest men in ,boston4 ,one day ,howe overheard his employer bellowing at a man who had brought a knitting machine to the shop to seek ,davis' advice4 ,why are you wasting your time over a knitting machine8 said ,davis1 ,take my advice1 try something that will pay4 ,make a sewing machine4 ,it can't be done1 was the reply4 ,can't be done8 shouted ,davis1 ,don't tell me that4 ,why--,i can make a sewing machine myself4 ,if you do1 interrupted the capitalist1 ,i can make an independent fortune for you4 ,davis1 like most men of many words1 often talked of more than he planned to do4 ,he never attempted to invent a sewing machine4 ,but the loud voices interested ,howe1 who1 it is said1 determined then that he would produce a sewing machine and win the fortune that the prosperous-looking man had asserted was waiting for such a deed4 ,a kind of lameness since birth had made physical tasks painful for ,howe1 and he perhaps felt that this would offer an opportunity to become independent of hard physical work4 ,after marrying on a journeyman machinist's pay of #i a week1 ,howe's health worsened and by #ahdc was so bad that he had to stop work for days at a time4 ,his wife was forced to take in sewing to maintain the family4 ,it was the sight of his wife toiling at her stitches together with the pressure of poverty that recalled to ,howe his earlier interest in a machine to sew4 ,he decided to make an earnest attempt to invent one4 ,watching his wife for hours at a time1 he tried to visualize a machine that would duplicate the motions of the arm4 ,after many trials1 he conceived the idea of using an eye-pointed needle in combination with a shuttle to form a stitch4 ,it is possible that1 as some authors state1 the solution appeared to him in a dream1 a manifestation of the subconscious at work4 ,others have suggested that he may have learned of ,hunt's machine4 ,there is a general similarity in the two1 not only in the combination of eye-pointed needle and shuttle but in the overhanging arm and vertical cloth suspension4 ,after conceiving the idea1 whatever his inspiration1 ,howe determined to devote all of his time to producing a working model of his machine4 ,elias' father1 who had then started a factory for splitting palm leaves in ,cambridge1 gave him permission to set up a lathe and a few tools in the garret of the factory4 ,elias moved his family to ,cambridge4 ,soon after his arrival1 unfortunately1 the building burned down1 and ,howe despaired of finding a place to work4 ,he had a friend1 however1 in ,george ,fisher1 who had just come into a small inheritance1 and ,howe persuaded him to enter into partnership with him for the development of the machine4 ,fisher agreed to board ,howe and his family1 which now included two children1 while ,howe completed the model4 ,fisher also agreed to supply #ejj for material and tools in exchange for a half interest in a patent if one was obtained4 ,illustration3 ,figure #ace4--;,,elias ,,howe1 ,,jr41 #ahai-ahfg4 ,from an oil painting in the ,smithsonian ,institution presented by the inventor's grandson1 ,elias ,howe ,stockwell4 7,smithsonian photo #fbb47 ,at long last ,howe was able to spend his full time and concentration on building his machine4 ,his family was being fed and had a roof over its head4 ,within a few months ,howe had completed a model and by ,april #ahde had sewed his first seam 7see fig4 #ad74 ,in ,july of that year he sewed all the principal seams of two suits of wool clothes1 one for ,george ,fisher and one for himself4 ,several efforts were made to solicit public interest in the new machine4 ,one was installed in a public hall in ,boston1 and a tailor was employed to operate it at three times the regular wage4 ,the reception was similar to that of ,thimonnier's3 crowds came to see the contraption1 but1 when ,howe tried to interest large clothing establishments in using the machine1 the protests of the tailors effectively blocked him4 ,he took his sewing machine to the ,quincy ,hall ,clothing ,manufactory and offered to sew up any seams brought to him4 ,daily he sat in one of the rooms demonstrating his machine1 and finally he challenged five of the swiftest seamstresses there to a race4 ,ten seams of equal length were prepared for stitching4 ,one was given to each of the girls while the remaining five were given to ,howe4 ,howe finished his five a little sooner than the girls each finished one1 and his seams were declared the strongest and neatest4 7,had any curved or angular work been brought1 he could not have stitched it47 ,still ,howe did not receive a single order4 ,the fear of throwing hand sewers out of work was again expressed1 and1 in addition1 the cost of the machine was said to be too high4 ,when it was estimated that a large shirtmaker would have to buy thirty or forty such machines1 the necessary large investment was dismissed as ridiculous4 ,howe was not too discouraged4 ,in the meantime1 he had finished a second machine for deposit with the patent specifications1 as the patent laws then required4 ,the second was a better made machine 7fig4 #ae7 and showed several minor changes4 ,as soon as the patent was issued on ,september #aj1 #ahdf1 ,howe and his partner returned to ,cambridge4 ,without the inventor's enthusiasm or love of his own invention1 ,george ,fisher became thoroughly discouraged4 ,he had boarded ,howe and his family for nearly two years1 had furnished the money needed to purchase the tools and materials for making the two sewing machines1 had met the expense of obtaining the patent and the trip of ,howe and himself to ,washington2 representing in all an outlay of practically #bjjj4 ,since no orders for machines had been received from either garment makers or tailors1 ,fisher did not see the slightest probability of the machine's becoming profitable and regarded his advances of cash as a dead loss4 ,howe moved back to his father's house with a plan to look elsewhere for a chance to introduce the machine4 ,obtaining a loan from his father1 he built another machine and sent it to ,england by his brother ,amasa4 ,after many discouraging attempts to interest the ,british1 ,amasa met ,william ,thomas1 a manufacturer of umbrellas1 corsets1 and leather goods4 ,thomas employed many workmen1 all of whom stitched by hand1 and he immediately saw the possibilities of a sewing machine4 ,he proposed that ,howe sell the machine to him for #bej sterling 7about #abej74 ,thomas further proposed to engage the inventor to adapt this machine to the making of corsets1 at a salary of #c a week4 ,when ,amasa ,howe returned to ,cambridge with the news1 ,elias was reluctant to accept ,thomas' offer but had nothing better in sight4 ,so the brothers sailed for ,london in ,february #ahdg1 taking with them ,howe's first machine and his patent papers4 ,thomas later advanced the passage money for ,howe's wife and three children so that they could join ,howe in ,england4 ,at this point1 historians disagree on how long ,howe was in ,thomas' employ and whether he succeeded in adapting the machine to meet ,thomas' needs4 ,he was in ,england long enough1 however1 to find himself without employment in a strange country1 his funds nearly exhausted1 and his wife ill4 ,he hoped to profit by the notice that his work had received and began to build another machine4 ,he sent his family home to reduce expenses while he stayed on to finish the machine4 ,after working on it for three or four months1 he was forced to sell it for five pounds and to take a note for that4 ,to collect enough for his passage home1 he sold the note for four pounds cash and pawned his precious first machine and his patent papers4 ,he landed in ,new ,york in ,april #ahdi with but half a crown in his pocket to show for his labors4 ,a short time after he arrived1 he learned that his wife was desperately ill4 ,only with a loan from his father was he able to reach her side before she died4 ,friends were found to look after the children1 and ,elias returned to work as a journeyman machinist4 ,howe discovered1 much to his surprise1 that during his absence in ,england the sewing machine had become recognized in the ,united ,states4 ,several machines made in ,boston had been sold to manufacturers and were in daily operation4 ,upon investigating them1 he felt that they utilized all or part of the invention that he had patented in #ahdf1 and he prepared to secure just compensation for its use4 ,the first thing he did was to regain his first machine and patent papers from the ,london pawnshop4 ,it was no easy matter for ,howe to raise the money1 but by summer he had managed4 ,it was sent to ,london with ,anson ,burlingame1 who redeemed the loans1 and by autumn of the same year the precious possessions were back in ,howe's hands4 ,though ,howe gained nothing by his ,english experience1 ,william ,thomas by his modest expenditure obtained all rights to the machine for ,great ,britain4 ,this later proved to be a valuable property4 ,howe then began writing letters to those whom he considered patent infringers1 requesting them to pay a fee or discontinue the manufacture of sewing machines which incorporated his patented inventions4 ,some at first were willing to pay the fee1 but they were persuaded by the others to stand with them and resist ,howe4 ,this action forced ,howe to the courts4 ,with his father's aid he began a suit1 but soon found that considerably more money than either possessed was necessary for such actions4 ,howe turned once more to ,george ,fisher1 but years of investing money in ,howe's machine without any monetary return had cooled him to the idea4 ,fisher1 however1 agreed to sell his half interest1 and in ,february #ahea ,george ,s4 ,jackson1 ,daniel ,c4 ,johnson1 and ,william ,e4 ,whiting became joint owners with ,howe4 ,these men helped ,howe to procure witnesses in the furtherance of numerous suits1 but more money was needed than they could raise4 ,the following year a ,massachusetts man by the name of ,george ,w4 ,bliss was persuaded to advance the money for the heavy legal expenses needed to protect the patent4 ,bliss did this as a speculation and demanded additional security4 ,once more ,elias' long-suffering parent came to the rescue and mortgaged his farm to get the necessary collateral4 ,only one of these suits was prosecuted to a hearing1 but this one1 relatively unimportant in itself1 set the precedent4 ,in it the defense relied on the earlier invention of ,walter ,hunt to oppose ,howe's claims4 ,the defendant succeeded in proving that ,hunt invented1 perfected1 and sold two machines in #ahcd and #ahce which contained all the essential devices in ,howe's machine of #ahdf4 ,but ,howe showed that the defendant's machine 7which was a ,blodgett and ,lerow7 contained some features of ,howe's machine which were not in ,hunt's4 ,the jury decided the case in favor of ,howe4 ,howe later fought a vigorous battle with ,isaac ,singer1 but after much legal controversy the ultimate decision in that case also was in ,howe's favor4 ,the suits and payments to each patent holder for the right to use his idea were choking the sewing-machine industry4 ,even ,howe could not manufacture a practical machine without an infringement4 ,finally an agreement was reached and a ,combination was formed by the major patent holders 7see pp4 #da-db74 ,in the meantime1 eight years of the first term of ,howe's patent had expired without producing much revenue4 ,this permitted ,howe1 upon the death of his partner1 ,george ,bliss1 to buy ,bliss' half interest for a small sum4 ,he became1 then1 the sole owner of his patent just as it was to bring him a fortune4 ,he obtained a seven-year extension for his patent in #ahfj without any difficulty1 and in #ahfg1 when he applied for another extension1 he stated that he had received #a1ahe1jjj from it4 ,though he endeavored to show that because of the machine's great value to the public he was entitled to receive at least #aej1jjj1jjj1 the second application was denied4 ,during the ,civil ,war1 ,howe enlisted as a private soldier in the #agth ,regiment ,connecticut ,volunteers4 ,he went into the field and served as an enlisted man4 ,on occasion when the ,government was pressed for funds to pay its soldiers1 he advanced the money necessary to pay his entire regiment4 ,howe did not establish a sewing-machine factory until just before his death in #ahfg4 ,one of his early licensees had been his elder brother1 ,amasa1 who had organized the ,howe ,sewing ,machine ,company about #ahec4 ,when ,elias began manufacturing machines on his own1 he sunk into the bedplate of each machine a brass medallion bearing his likeness4 ,elias gave his company the same name that his elder brother had used4 ,as this had been ,amasa's exclusive property for many years1 he took the matter to the courts where the decision went against ,elias4 ,he then organized the ,howe ,machine ,company and began to manufacture sewing machines4 ,on ,october #c1 #ahfg1 ,elias died in ,brooklyn1 ,new ,york1 at the home of one of his sons-in-law4 ,the company was then carried on by his two sons-in-law1 who were ,stockwell brothers4 ,in #ahgb the ,howe ,sewing ,machine ,company was sold by ,amasa's son to the ,stockwells' ,howe ,machine ,company1 which in turn went out of business in the mid-#ahhjs4 ,,allen ,,benjamin ,,wilson ,allen ,b4 ,wilson was born in the small town of ,willett1 ,cortlandt ,county1 ,new ,york1 in #ahbd4 ,at sixteen he was apprenticed to a distant relative1 a cabinetmaker4 ,unfortunate circumstances caused him to leave this employ1 and in #ahdg ,wilson was in ,adrian1 ,michigan1 working as a journeyman cabinetmaker4 ,the place and year are important1 for it was at this time that he conceived his idea of a sewing machine4 ,because of the distant location1 it is believed that he was not aware of similar efforts being made in ,new ,england4 ,wilson became ill and for many months could not work at his trade4 ,by ,august #ahdh he was able to work again and found employment at ,pittsfield1 ,massachusetts4 ,resolving to develop his idea of a sewing machine1 he worked diligently and by ,november had made full drawings of all the parts1 according to his previous conceptions4 ,in comparison to the monetary returns received by the inventors ,howe and ,singer1 ,wilson himself did not receive as great a monetary reward for his outstanding sewing-machine inventions4 ,because of his health ,wilson retired in #ahec1 when the stock company was formed1 but he received a regular salary and additional money from the patent renewals4 ,wilson petitioned for a second extension of his patents on ,april #g1 #ahgd1 stating that1 due to his early poverty1 he had been compelled to sell a half interest in a patent 7his first one7 for the sum of #bjj4 ,also he stated that he had not received more than his expenses during the original fourteen-year term4 ,wilson also stated that he had received only #acg1jjj during the first seven-year extension period4 ,these figures were verified by his partner4 ,the petition was read before both ,houses of ,congress and referred to the ,committee on ,patents4#id ,there was strong feeling against the extension of the ,wilson patents4 ,the ,new ,york ,daily ,graphic1 ,december #cj1 #ahgd1 reported3 ,illustration3 ,figure #acf4--;,,allen ,,benjamin ,,wilson1 #ahbd-ahhh4 ,from a drawing owned by the ,singer ,mfg4 ,co4 ,formerly1 the drawing was owned by the ,wheeler ,wilson ,mfg4 ,co4 7,smithsonian photo #cbjff47 ,so valuable has been this latter four-motion feed that few or no cloth-sewing machines are now made without it4 ,the joint ownership of this feature of the ,wilson patents has served to bind the combination of sewing-machine builders together1 and enabled them to defy competition by force of the monopoly4 ,it is this feature which the combination wishes to further monopolize for seven years by act of ,congress4 ,the inventor has probably realized millions for his invention4 ,singer admits that his patents1 which are much less important1 paid him two millions prior to #ahgj1 since which time he has not been compelled to render an account4 ,the ,wilson patents with their extended terms were worth a much larger sum4 ,they have been public property1 so far as the feed is concerned1 since ,june #ae1 #ahgc1 and will remain so if too great a pressure is not brought to bear on ,congress for their extension4 ,a monopoly of this feed motion for seven years more would be worth from ten to thirty millions to the owner--and would cost the people four times as much4 ,wilson had not made the millions for he only received a small percentage of the renewals' earnings plus his salary from the patents' owner1 the ,wheeler and ,wilson ,manufacturing ,company4 ,the ,congressional ,committee on ,patents made an adverse report in #ahgd and again in #ahge and #ahgf1 when applications for an extension were continued ,wilson died on ,april #bi1 #ahhh4 ,,isaac ,,merritt ,,singer ,illustration3 ,figure #acg4--- ,,isaac ,,merritt ,,singer1 #ahaa-ahge4 ,from a charcoal drawing owned by the ,singer ,mfg4 ,co4 7,smithsonian photo #cbjff-;,b7 ,isaac ,singer1 whose name is known around the world as a manufacturer of sewing machines1 was the eighth child of poor ,german immigrants4 ,isaac was born on ,october #bg1 #ahaa1 in ,pittstown1 ,new ,york1 but most of his early life was spent in ,oswego4 ,he worked as a mechanic and cabinetmaker1 but acquired an interest in the theater4 ,under the name of ,isaac ,merritt1 he went to ,rochester and became an actor4 ,in #ahci1 during an absence from the theater1 he completed his first invention1 a mechanical excavator1 which he sold for #bjjj4 ,with the money ,singer organized a theatrical troupe of his own1 which he called ,the ,merritt ,players4 ,when the group failed in ,fredericksburg1 ,ohio1 ,singer was stranded for lack of funds4 ,forced to find some type of employment1 ,singer took a job in a ,fredericksburg plant that manufactured wooden printers' type4 ,he quickly recognized the need for an improved type-carving machine4 ,after inventing and patenting one1 he found no financial support in ,fredericksburg and decided to take the machine to ,new ,york ,city4 ,here1 the firm of ,a4 ,b4 ,taylor and ,co4 agreed to furnish the money and give ,singer room in its ,hague ,street factory to build machines4 ,a boiler explosion destroyed the first machine1 and ,taylor refused to advance more money4 ,while ,singer was with ,taylor1 ,george ,b4 ,zieber1 a bookseller who had seen the type-carving machine1 considered its value to publishers4 ,zieber offered to help ,singer and raised #agjj to build another model4 ,in ,june #ahej the machine was completed4 ,singer and ,zieber took the machine to ,boston where they rented display space in the steam-powered workshop of ,orson ,c4 ,phelps at #ai ,harvard ,place4 ,only a few publishers came to look at the machine1 and none wanted to buy it4 ,singer1 contemplating his future1 became interested in ,phelps' work1 manufacturing sewing machines for ,j4 ,a4 ,lerow and ,s4 ,c4 ,blodgett4 ,phelps welcomed ,singer's interest as the design of the mechanism was faulty and purchasers kept returning the machines for repairs4 ,singer examined the sewing machine with the eyes of a practical machinist4 ,he criticized the action of the shuttle1 which passed around a circle1 and the needle bar1 which pushed a curved needle horizontally4 ,singer suggested that the shuttle move to and fro in a straight path and that a straight needle be used vertically4 ,phelps encouraged ,singer to abandon the type-carving machine and turn his energies toward the improvement of the sewing machine4 ,convinced that he could make his ideas work1 ,singer sketched a rough draft of his proposed machine1 and with the support of ,zieber and ,phelps the work began4 ,singer continued to be active in the sewing-machine business until #ahfc4 ,he made his home in ,paris for a short time and then moved to ,england4 ,while living at ,torquay he conceived the idea of a fabulous ,greco-,roman mansion1 which he planned to have built at ,paignton4 ,singer called it ,the ,wigwam4 ,unfortunately1 after all his plans1 he did not live to see its completion4 ,singer died on ,july #bc1 #ahge1 of heart disease at the age of sixty-three4 ,,footnotes3 #ic ,the ,proceedings and ,debates of the #dcrd ,congress1 ,first ,session1 #ahgd ,congressional ,record1 vol4 #b1 part #c1 petition read to the ,house by ,mr4 ,creamer on ,april #g1 #ahgd4 ,in part #d of the same1 ,mr4 ,buckingham read a similar petition to the ,senate on ,may #ai1 #ahgd4 ,both were referred to the ,committee on ,patents2 an extension was not granted4 ,bibliography ,,adams1 ,,charles ,k4 ,sewing machines4 ,in vol4 #g of ,johnson's universal cyclopaedia1 ,new ,york3 ,d4 ,appleton and ,company1 #ahie4 ,,alexander1 ,,edwin ,p4 ,sewing1 plaiting1 and felting machines4 ,pp4 #cda-cec in ,the ,practical ,mechanic's ,journal's record of the great exhibition1 #ahfb4 #ahfb4 ----4 ,on the sewing machine3 ,its history and progress4 ,journal of the ,royal ,society of ,arts 7,april #aj1 #ahfc71 vol4 #b1 no4 #edb1 p4 #ceh4 ,,american ,,historical ,,society4 ,the life and works of ,george ,h4 ,corliss4 7,privately printed for ,mary ,corliss by the ,society47 #aicj4 ,biography of ,isaac ,m4 ,singer4 ,the ,atlas1 ,new ,york1 ,n4,y41 ,march #bj1 #ahec4 ,,bishop1 ,j4 ,,leander4 ,in vol4 #b of ,a history of ,american manufactures from #afjh to #ahfj1 by ,bishop2 ,philadelphia3 ,edward ,young and ,company1 #ahff4 ,,bolton1 ,,james4 ,sewing machines1 special report on special subjects4 ,in vol4 #b of ,report of the ,committee on ,awards2 ,chicago3 ,world's ,columbian ,exposition1 #ahic4 ,,brockett1 ,,linus ,p4 ,sewing machines4 ,in vol4 #d of ,johnson's universal cyclopaedia2 ,new ,york3 ,d4 ,appleton and ,company1 #ahgd4 ,,burr1 ,j4 ,b4 ,the great industries of the ,united ,states4 ,hartford3 ,j4 ,b4 ,burr and ,hyde1 n4d4 ,,cook1 ,,rosamond ,c4 ,sewing machines4 ,peoria1 ,illinois3 ,manual ,arts ,press1 #aibb4 ,,depew1 ,c4 ,m4 #ajj years of ,american commerce4 ,in vol4 #b1 ,american sewing machines by ,f4 ,g4 ,bourne4 ,new ,york3 ,d4 ,o4 ,haines1 #ahie4 ,,district ,,of ,,columbia ,,circuit ,,court4 ,case of ,hunt vs4 ,howe4 ,in ,federal ,cases1 case #fhia1 book #ab1 #ahee4 ,,doolittle1 ,,william ,h4 ,inventions4 ,vol4 in ,library of modern progress4 ,philadelphia3 ,modern ,progress ,publishing ,company1 #aije4 ,,durgin1 ,,charles ,a4 ,digest of patents on sewing machines1 ,feb4 #ba1 #ahdb-;,july #a1 #ahei4 ,new ,york3 ,livesey ,brothers1 #ahei4 ,,fairfield1 ,,george ,a4 ,report on sewing machines4 ,in vol4 #c of ,report of the commissioners of the ,united ,states to the international exhibition held at ,vienna1 #ahgc4 #ahgd4 ,,fiske1 ,,bradley ,a4 ,invention1 the master-key to progress4 ,new ,york3 ,e4 ,p4 ,dutton and ,company1 #aiba4 ,,gifford1 ,,george ,w4 ,counsel for ,elias ,howe1 ,jr4 ,argument of ,gifford in favor of ,howe's application for extension of patent4 ,washington3 ,u4,s4 ,patent ,office1 #ahfj4 ,,granger1 ,,jean4 ,thimonnier et la machine coudre4 ,in vol4 #b of ,les publications techniques4 ,paris1 #aidc4 ,source for biographical sketch on ,barthelemy ,thimonnier4 ,,gregory1 ,,george ,w4 ,machines1 etc41 used in sewing and making clothing4 ,vol4 #g of ,reports and ,awards4 ,philadelphia ,international ,exhibition1 #ahgf4 ,u4,s4 ,centennial ,commission1 ,washington1 ,d4,c41 #ahhj4 ,,hersberg1 ,,rudolph4 ,the sewing machine1 its history1 construction and application4 ,transl4 ,upfield ,green4 ,london3 ,e4 ,f4 ,n4 ,spon1 #ahfd4 ,,howe1 ,,henry4 ,adventures and achievements of ,americans4 ,published by the author1 #ahfj4 ,,howe ,,machine ,,company4 ,the ,howe exhibition catalog of sewing machines4 ,published by the company for the ,philadelphia ,centennial ,exposition1 #ahgf4 ,,hubert1 ,,philip ,g41 ,,jr4 ,men of achievement3 inventors4 ,new ,york3 ,charles ,scribner's ,sons1 #ahid4 ,,hunt1 ,,clinton ,n4 ,walter ,hunt1 ,american inventor4 ,published by the author1 #aice4 ,source for biographical sketch on ,walter ,hunt4 ,,international ,,exhibition4 ,sewing and knitting machines4 ,in ,reports of the ,juries1 ,class ,,vii1 ,section ,a4 ,london1 #ahfb4 ,,johnson ,,clark ,,and ,,company4 ,sewing machines for domestic and export trade4 ,published by the company1 #ahhc4 ,,kaempffert1 ,,waldemar4 ,a popular history of ,american invention4 ,making clothes by machine1 by ,john ,walker ,harrington1 vol #b4 ,new ,york3 ,charles ,scribner's ,sons1 #aibd4 ,,kilgare1 ,c4 ,b4 ,sewing-machines4 ,philadelphia3 ,j4 ,b4 ,lippincott ,company1 #ahib4 ,,knight1 ,,edward ,h4 ,vol4 #c of ,knight's ,american mechanical dictionary4 ,boston3 ,houghton1 ,mifflin and ,company1 #ahhb4 ,,lewton1 ,,frederick ,l4 ,the servant in the house3 a brief history of the sewing machine4 ,pp4 #eei-ehc in ,annual ,report of the ,smithsonian ,institution 7#aibi72 ,washington3 #aicj4 ,,luth1 ,,erich4 ,ein ,mayener ,strumpfwirker1 ,balthasar ,krems1 #agfj-ahac1 ,erfinder der ,nhmaschine4 ,hamburg1 ,germany3 ,verlag ,herbert ,luth1 #aida4 ----4 ,josef ,madersperger oder der unscheinbore ,genius4 ,hamburg1 ,germany3 ,reichsnerband des ,deutschen ,nhmaschinenhandels ,,ev1 #aicc 84 ,obituary of ,isaac ,m4 ,singer4 ,new ,york ,tribune1 ,july #bf1 #ahge4 ,,madersperger1 ,,joseph4 ,beschreibung einer ,nhmaschine4 ,vienna1 ca4 #ahaf4 ,o',,brien1 ,,walter4 ,sewing machines4 ,textile ,american1 reprinted ,march #aica4 ,a paper read at a meeting of the ,leicester ,textile ,society4 ,,orcutt1 ,,rev4 ,,samuel4 ,a history of the old town of ,stratford and the city of ,bridgeport1 ,connecticut4 #b vols4 ,fairfield ,county ,historical ,society1 #ahhf4 ,,paris ,,universal ,,exposition4 ,reports of the ,u4,s4 ,commissioners ,general ,survey1 vol4 #a1 pp4 #bic-big4 #ahfg4 ,,parton1 ,,james4 ,history of the sewing machine4 ,atlantic ,monthly1 ,may #ahfg4 ,,raymond1 ,,william ,,chandler4 ,curiosities of the ,patent ,office4 ,syracuse1 ,n4,y43 published by the author1 #ahhh4 ,,reid1 ,j4 ,a4 ,a monograph prepared for ,american industrial education conference and exposition4 ,elizabethport1 ,n4,j43 ,singer ,manufacturing ,company1 #aiae4 ,,renters1 ,,wilhelm4 ,praktisches ,wissen von der ,nhmaschine4 ,langensalza1 ,berlin1 and ,leipzig3 ,verlag ,julius ,beltz1 #aicc4 ,scientific ,american4 ,issues of ,january #bg1 ,february #c1 and ,november #bd1 #ahdi2 ,july #ag1 #aheb2 ,july #i and ,november #e1 #ahei2 ,january #c and ,may #af1 #ahfc2 ,october #ai1 #ahfg2 and ,july #be1 #ahif4 ,,scott1 ,,john4 ,genius rewarded1 or the story of the sewing machine4 ,new ,york3 ,j4 ,j4 ,caulon1 #ahhj4 ,sewing ,machine ,advance4 ,chicago4 ,vols4 #a-ce1 no4 #e1 ,may #ahgi to #aiac4 ,sewing ,machine ,journal4 ,september #ahgi to ,december #ahhd4 ,sewing ,machine ,news4 ,new ,york4 ,vols4 #a-f1 #ahgg-ahgi2 n4s4 vols4 #a-af1 #ahgi-ahic4 ,sewing ,machine ,times4 ,new ,york4 ,vols4 #a-i1 #ahhb-ahij2 n4s4 vols4 #a-ch 7nos4 #a-gbe71 #ahia-;,april #aibd4 ,,stambaugh1 ,,john ,p4 ,sewing machines at the #bbnd annual exhibition of the ,maryland ,institute1 also a history of the sewing machine4 ,hartford1 ,conn43 ,weed ,sewing ,machine ,company1 #ahgb4 ,story of sewing machine patents4 ,new ,york ,tribune1 ,may #bc1 #ahfb4 ,,thompson1 ,,holland4 ,the age of invention4 ,vol4 #cg of the ,chronicles of ,america4 ,new ,haven3 ,yale ,university ,press1 #aiba4 ,,towers1 ,,henry ,m4 ,historical sketches relating to ,spencer1 ,massachusetts4 ,vol4 #a4 ,spencer1 ,mass43 ,w4 ,g4 ,heffernan1 #aija4 ,,urquhart1 ,j4 ,w4 ,sewing machinery4 ,vol4 #h in ,weale's rudimentary scientific and educational series4 ,london3 ,crosby ,lockwood and ,co41 #ahha4 ,,van ,,slyck1 ,j4 ,d4 ,new ,england manufacturers and manufactories4 ,vol4 #b4 ,boston3 ,van ,slyck and ,company1 #ahgi4 ,source for biographical sketch on ,allen ,benjamin ,wilson1 ,van ,slyck1 vol4 #b1 pp4 #fgb-fhb4 ,,walso1 ,,george ,c41 ,,jr4 ,history of ,bridgeport and vicinity4 ,vol4 #b4 ,bridgeport1 ,conn43 ,s4 ,j4 ,clarke ,publishing ,company1 #aiag4 ,who invented the sewing machine8 ,the ,galaxy article unsigned1 vol4 #d1 ,august #ahfg4 ,indexes ,geographical ,index to ,companies listed in ,appendix ,,ii ,,connecticut ,bridgeport ,d4 ,w4 ,clark1 #fg ,jerome ,b4 ,secor1 #fh ,goodbody ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #fi ,howe ,machine ,co41 #fi ,secor ,machine ,co41 #gb ,american ,hand ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #gb ,wheeler ,wilson ,mfg4 ,co41 #gd ,bristol ,nettleton ,raymond1 #gb ,watson ,wooster1 #gc ,danbury ,bartram ,fanton ,mfg4 ,co41 #ff ,hartford ,morrison1 ,wilkinson ,co41 #ga ,weed ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #gd ,meriden ,fosket and ,savage1 #fh ,charles ,parker ,co41 #gb ,parker ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #gb ,middletown ,victor ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #gc ,norwich ,greenman and ,true ,mfg4 ,co41 #fi ,waterbury ,waterbury ,co41 #gc ,west ,meriden ,parkers1 ,snow1 ,brooks ,co41 #gj ,,district ,,of ,,columbia ,washington ,post ,combination ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #gb ,,illinois ,belleville ,thomas ,m4 ,cochrane ,co41 #ga ,j4 ,h4 ,drew ,co41 #ga ,belvidere ,june ,mfg4 ,co41 #gj ,national ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #ga ,chicago ,chicago ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #fg ,eldredge ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #fh ,free ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #fi ,scates1 ,tryber ,sweetland ,mfg41 #fg ,sigwalt ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #fg1 #gc ,h4 ,b4 ,goodrich1 #fi ,june ,mfg4 ,co41 #gj ,rockford ,free ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #fi ,,maine ,biddeford ,shaw ,clark ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #ga1 #gc ,,massachusetts ,boston ,o4 ,phelps1 #ff ,j4 ,f4 ,paul ,co41 #ff ,boston ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #ff ,bradford ,barber1 mfgs41 #ff ,john ,p4 ,bowker1 #fh ,empire ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #fh ,finkle ,lyon ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #fh1 #gc ,grover and ,baker ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #fi ,nichols and ,bliss1 #fi ,j4 ,b4 ,nichols ,co41 #fi ,nichols1 ,leavitt ,co41 #fi1 #gj ,n4 ,hunt ,co41 #gj ,hunt and ,webster1 #gj ,emery1 ,houghton ,co41 #gj ,ladd1 ,webster ,co41 #gj ,leavitt ,co41 #gj ,leavitt ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #gj ,safford ,williams ,makers1 #ga ,c4 ,a4 ,french1 #gb ,f4 ,r4 ,robinson1 #gb ,howard ,davis1 #gb ,i4 ,m4 ,singer ,co41 #gc ,butterfield ,stevens ,mfg4 ,co41 #gd ,williams ,orvis ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #gd ,chicopee ,falls ,shaw ,clark ,co41 #gc ,chicopee ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #gc ,florence ,florence ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #fg1 #fh ,foxboro ,foxboro ,rotary ,shuttle ,co41 #fh ,lowell ,aetna ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #fe ,lynn ,woolridge1 ,keene and ,moore1 #fg ,orange ,gold ,medal ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #fi ,johnson1 ,clark ,co41 #fi1 #ga1 #gc ,grout ,white1 #ga ,new ,home ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #ga ,springfield ,leader ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #gj ,springfield ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #gc ,d4 ,b4 ,wesson ,sewing ,machine ,co41#gd ,winchendon ,j4 ,g4 ,folsom1 #fh1 #fi1 #ga ,william ,grout1 #ga ,worcester ,goddard1 ,rice ,co41 #ff ,,michigan ,detroit ,decker ,mfg4 ,co41 #fg ,c4 ,g4 ,gardner1 #fi ,,missouri ,st4 ,louis ,wardwell ,mfg4 ,co41 #gc ,,new ,,hampshire ,dover ,o4 ,l4 ,reynolds ,manufacturing ,co41 #ga ,marlboro ,thurston ,mfg4 ,co41 #fg ,mason ,village ,franklin ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #fh ,,new ,,jersey ,elizabethport ,singer ,mfg4 ,co4 7manufactory1 not office71 #gc ,paterson ,whitney ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #gd ,,new ,,york ,binghamton ,independent ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #gj ,brooklyn ,j4 ,h4 ,lester1 #gj ,g4 ,l4 ,du ,laney1 #gj ,ithaca ,aiken and ,felthousen 7patentees71 #fe ,american ,magnetic ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #fe ,clinton ,brothers1 #fg ,t4 ,c4 ,thompson1 #gc ,new ,york ,avery ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #ff ,a4 ,bartholf1 mfg41 #ff ,bartholf ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #ff ,bartlett ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #ff ,barlow ,son1 #ff ,beckwith ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #ff ,j4 ,a4 ,davis1 #fg ,demorest ,mfg4 ,co41 #fg ,charles ,a4 ,durgin1 #fh ,elliptic ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #fh ,eureka ,shuttle ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #fh ,excelsior ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #fh ,madame ,demorest1 #fh ,first and ,frost1 #fh ,l4 ,griswold1 #fi ,howe ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #fi ,thos4 ,a4 ,macauley ,mfg41 #gj ,new ,york ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #ga ,t4 ,w4 ,robertson1 #gb ,i4 ,m4 ,singer ,co41 #gc ,singer ,mfg4 ,co41 #gc ,standard ,shuttle ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #gc ,henry ,stewart ,co41 #gc ,stewart ,mfg4 ,co41 #gc ,e4 ,e4 ,lee ,co41 #gd ,willcox ,gibbs ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #gd ,watertown ,davis ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #fg ,wheeler1 ,wilson ,co41 #gd ,westmoreland ,a4 ,b4 ,buell1 #fg ,,ohio ,cleveland ,wilson 7,w4 ,g47 ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #ff1 #gd ,domestic ,sewing ,machine ,co4 7after #aibd71 #fg ,leslie ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #gj ,standard ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #gc ,white ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #gd ,dayton ,davis ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #fg ,elyria ,west ,willson ,co41 #gd ,norwalk ,dauntless ,mfg4 ,co41 #fg1 #gb ,wm4 ,a4 ,mack ,co41 and ,n4 ,s4 ,perkins1 #fg ,domestic ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #fg1 #gj ,springfield ,royal ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #gb ,st4 ,john ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #gc ,toledo ,jewel ,mfg4 ,co41 #gj ,,pennsylvania ,erie ,noble ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #gb ,philadelphia ,american ,buttonhole1 ,overseaming and ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #fe ,centennial ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #fg ,george ,b4 ,sloat and ,co41 #fh ,rex ,bockius1 #fi ,grant ,bros4 ,co41 #fi ,b4 ,w4 ,lacey ,co41 #ga ,parham ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #gb ,philadelphia ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #gb ,quaker ,city ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #gb ,e4 ,remington ,sons1 #gb ,taggart ,farr1 #gc ,pittsburgh ,love ,mfg4 ,co41 #gj ,,rhode ,,island ,providence ,household ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #fi ,providence ,tool ,co41 #fi ,,vermont ,brattleboro ,samuel ,barker and ,thomas ,white1 #ff ,brattleboro ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #fh ,estey ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #fh ,higby ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #fi ,nettleton ,raymond 7,charles ,raymond71 #ga ,windsor ,lamson1 ,goodnow ,yale1 #fg1 #gd ,vermont ,arms ,co41 #gd ,,virginia ,richmond ,lester ,mfg4 ,co41 #gj ,union ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #fh1 #gj ,old ,dominion ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #gb ,,wisconsin ,milwaukee ,whitehill ,mfg4 ,co41 #gd ,alphabetical ,index to ,patentees listed in ,appendix ,,iii ,abercrombi1 ,charles1 #ebjigg ,abbott1 ,w4 ,w41 #bebihd ,adams1 ,john ,q41 #ibach ,alexander1 ,elisa1 #afeah ,ambler1 ,d4 ,c41 #aahhd ,angell1 ,benjamin ,j41 #aibhe ,applegate1 ,john ,h41 and ,webb1 ,charles ,b41 #aggghd ,appleton1 ,c4 ,j41 and ,sibley1 ,j4 ,j41 #agiddj ,arnold1 ,b41 #hfaba1 #achiha1 #achihb ,arnold1 ,g4 ,b4 and ,a41 #cjaab ,arnold1 ,g4 ,b41 #bhaci ,atwater1 ,b41 #ddjfc ,atwood1 ,j4 ,e41 #bbbgc ,atwood1 ,k4 ,c41 #aidgei ,atwood1 ,j4 ,e41 ,j4 ,c41 and ,o41 #aiijc ,avery1 ,otis1 #icch1 #ajhhj ,avery1 ,o4 and ,z4 ,w41 #bbjjg ,bachelder1 ,j41 #fdci ,baglin1 ,william1 #aedaac ,baker1 ,g4 ,w41 #gjaeb1 #abecgd1 #acjjje ,baldwin1 ,cyrus ,w41 #chbgf ,banks1 ,c4 ,m41 #bbeghd ,barcellos1 ,d41 #bjcajb ,barnes1 ,m4 ,m41 #ajfcjg ,barnes1 ,william ,t41 #bjfhh1 #bejhd1 #behgf ,barney1 ,samuel ,c41 #aefaai ,barrett1 ,o4 ,d41 #beghe ,bartholf1 ,abraham1 #aihbc ,bartlett1 ,joseph ,w41 #dfjfd1 #gfche ,bartlett1 ,joseph ,w41 and ,plant1 ,frederick1 #aeijfe ,barton1 ,kate ,c41 #ahbjif ,bartram1 ,w4 ,b41 #edfgj1 #edfga1 #fjffi1 #fbebj1 #hceib1 #ajdbdg1 #acjeeg ,bates1 ,w4 ,g41 assignor to ,johnson1 ,william ,h41 #ieib ,bayley1 ,c4 ,h41 #bababb ,bean1 ,benjamin ,w41 #bihb ,bean1 ,e4 ,e41 #bhadd ,beardslee1 ,w4 ,f41 #bdegha ,beck1 ,august1 #aijahd1 #aifhfc ,beckwith1 ,william ,g41 #abfiba1 #acccea1 #afgchb ,behn1 ,henry1 #ahjga1 #ahhhj ,belcher1 ,c4 ,d41 #afgaj ,benedict1 ,c4 ,p41 #hceif ,bennett1 ,frank ,howard1 and ,dowling1 ,james1 #djigbh ,bennor1 ,joseph1 #ajfbdi ,benson1 ,george1 #bcheef ,beukler1 ,william1 #bjdgjd ,beuttel1 ,charles1 #aaeaee ,bigelow1 ,j41 #bfcdfg ,billings1 ,c4 ,e41 #hhfjc ,bishop1 ,h4 ,h41 #bbbbf ,black1 ,samuel ,s41 #adffdb ,blake1 ,lyman ,r41 #bjgge1 #gdbhi ,blanchard1 ,helen ,a41 #adaihg ,bland1 ,henry1 #bafjaf1 #bbaeje ,blodgett1 ,s4 ,c1 #aedfi1 #badfe ,blodgett1 ,john ,w41 #bgicbj ,boecher1 ,adam1 #cjjaii ,bond1 ,joseph ,jr41 #abici1 #icehh1 #ahieii ,booth1 ,ezekiel1 #bejhg ,boppel1 ,jacob1 #cifigi ,borton1 ,s41 #badjhi ,borton1 ,stockton1 and ,willcox1 ,charles ,h41 #beeegf1 #beeegg1 #beeehj1 #beeeha ,bosworth1 ,c4 ,f41 #aiigi1 #chhjg1 #abbeee1 #aiiejj1 #bafejd ,bounaz1 ,a41 #hciji1 #hciaj ,bouscay1 ,eloi1 ,jr41 #abgade ,bowyer1 ,j4 ,t41 #dedgjh ,boyd1 ,a4 ,h41 #aiaga1 #bdjjc1 #cahfd ,bracher1 ,t4 ,w41 #bbaejh ,bradeen1 ,j4 ,g41 #ichj ,bradford1 ,e4 ,f4 and ,pierce1 ,v4 ,r41 #aggcga ,braundbeck1 ,e41 #abgfge ,brewer1 ,a4 ,g41 #aebhid ,briggs1 ,thomas1 #aihgij ,brown1 ,f4 ,h41 #idchi1 #ajbcff1 #acagce1 #aicdgg ,bruen1 ,j4 ,t41 #cabjh ,bruen1 ,l4 ,b41 #fhhci ,budlong1 ,william ,g41 #beidf ,buell1 ,j4 ,s41 #becha ,buhr1 ,johannes1 #aeabgb ,burnet1 ,s4 ,s4 and ,broderick1 ,w41 #bbafj ,burr1 ,theodore1 #cbjbc ,butcher1 ,joseph1 #ahjedb1 #bccfeg ,cadwell1 ,caleb1 #deigb1 #gaaca ,cajar1 ,emil1 #ejbii1 #fagaa ,cameron1 ,james ,w41 #bgbebg ,campbell1 ,duncan ,h41 #bdafab1 #bdafac ,canfield1 ,f4 ,p41 #hfjeg ,carhart1 ,peter ,s41 #bdjih ,carlisle1 ,w4 ,s41 #bgjedj ,carpenter1 ,lunan1 #bjiij ,carpenter1 ,mary ,p41 #aabjaf ,carpenter1 ,william1 #hgfcc ,carr1 ,william ,h4 and ,ostrom1 ,f4 ,w41 #cjccfa ,case1 ,george ,f41 #ccjbi ,cately1 ,william ,h41 #efijb ,chamberlain1 ,j4 ,n41 #bhdeb ,chandler1 ,rufus1 #accgeg1 #acicfh ,charmbury1 ,h41 #cafgde ,chase1 ,m41 #aacdih ,chilcott1 ,j4 and ,scrimgeour1 ,j41 #abhef ,chittenden1 ,h4 ,h41 #dcbhi ,choquette1 ,a4 ,e41 #bddjcc ,clark1 ,david ,w41 #aijae1 #aijgb1 #aiabi1 #aidji1 #aigcb1 #bjdha1 #bacbb1 #bchbc ,clark1 ,edwin1 #bfccf ,clark1 ,edwin ,e41 #gdgea ,clements1 ,james ,m41 #egdea ,cleminshaw1 ,s41 #abhcfc1 #baccia ,clever1 ,p4 ,j41 #ifhhf ,clever1 ,peter ,j41 #bifebi ,coates1 ,f4 ,s41 #aifhd ,cole1 ,w4 ,h41 #giddg ,conant1 ,j4 ,s41 #abbcc ,conklin1 ,n4 ,a41 #bjfggd ,cook1 ,hugo1 #dedfaj ,cooney1 ,w41 #ajbbbf ,corbett1 ,e4 and ,harlow1 ,c4 ,f41 #aibefh ,corey1 ,j4 ,w41 #aihigj ,corliss1 ,george ,h41 #cchi ,cornely1 ,e41 #gcfif ,cornely1 ,emile1 #baibbe ,craige1 ,e4 ,h41 #fbahf1 #fgfce ,crane1 ,thomas1 #aejecb ,crosby1 ,c4 ,o41 #ejbbe1 #ijejg ,crosby1 ,c4 ,o4 and ,kellogg1 ,h41 #cgjcc ,cummins1 ,william ,g41 #ahghbb ,curtis1 ,g4 ,h4 ,w41 #bbhihe ,cushman1 ,c4 ,s41 #adbddb1 #ahdeid ,dale1 ,john ,d41 #ddfhf ,dancel1 ,christian1 #aiihjb ,darling and ,darling1 #afcfci ,davis1 ,job ,a41 #bgbjh1 #ehfad ,derocquigny1 ,a4 ,c4 ,f41 ,gance1 ,d41 and ,hanzo1 ,l41 #cdgdh ,deschamps1 ,o4 ,l41 #beciae ,destouy1 ,auguste1 #efgbi ,dewees1 ,john ,w41 #dcbgdf ,dickinson1 ,c4 ,w41 #bfcdf ,diehl1 ,philipp1 #ccifbc1 #cdgggf1 #cdgggg1 #cdhaac ,dieterle1 ,h4 ,e41 #cecedb ,dimmock1 ,martial and ,rixford1 ,nathan1 #aiace ,dimond1 ,george ,h41 #aifaih1 #bjgdjj ,dinsmore1 ,alfred ,s41 #afjeab1 #bcaaee ,dinsmore1 ,a4 ,s41 and ,carter1 ,john ,t41 #aebfah ,doll1 ,arnold1 #fhdbj ,dopp1 ,h4 ,w41 #bgbgi ,dowling1 ,james1 and ,connolly1 ,john1 #biiaah ,drake1 ,ellis1 #aeeicb ,duchemin1 ,william1 #eigae1 #iaaja1 #acejcb1 #bhhibi ,dunbar1 ,c4 ,f41 #hhbhb ,durgin1 ,charles ,a41 #abijb ,earle1 ,t41 #caaef ,eickemeyer1 ,rudolf1 #ebfih1 #ahbahb1 #bcicai ,elderfield1 ,f4 ,d41 #bjddbi ,eldridge1 ,g4 ,w41 #hgcca ,elliott1 ,f41 #heiah ,emerson1 ,john1 #ejihi ,emswiler1 ,j4 ,b41 #bejjb ,esty1 ,william1 #ahghcg ,fales1 ,j4 ,f41 #gdcbh ,fanning1 ,john1 #gbhbi1 #abijac ,farr1 ,chester ,n41 #bejjd ,farrar1 ,arthur1 #cjihcg ,fetter1 ,george1 #ahgic1 #aijei ,fish1 ,warren ,l41 #abcfbe ,fletcher1 ,james ,n41 #ddcgef ,follett1 ,joseph ,l41 #ahiddf ,fosket1 ,william ,a41 and ,savage1 ,elliot1 #bbgai1 #beifc ,french1 ,stephen1 #hjcde ,frese1 ,b41 #agbcjh ,fuller1 ,h4 ,w41 #fcjcc ,fuller1 ,william ,m41 #cbdif ,garland1 ,h4 ,p41 #aeihab1 #afiafc ,gee1 ,w4 ,v41 #cfadjf ,gibbs1 ,james ,e4 ,a41 #afbcd1 #afdcd1 #agdbg1 #baabi1 #bagea1 #bgbad1 #bhhea ,gird1 ,e4 ,d41 #hgeei ,goodes1 ,e4 ,a41 #acfgah1 #adgchg ,goodspeed1 ,g4 ,n41 #edhaf ,goodwin1 ,julius ,c41 #dejgic ,goodwyn1 ,h4 ,h41 #bddee ,goodyear1 ,charles ,jr41 #aaaaig1 #aafidg ,gordon1 ,james1 and ,kinert1 ,william1 #abehjg ,gray1 ,joshua1 #afeff1 #aiffe1 #bdjbb1 #ieeha ,green1 ,george ,f41 #bchfgh ,greenough1 ,john ,j41 #bdff ,gritzner1 ,m4 ,c41 #ddgbj1 #gfcbc ,gritzner1 ,max ,c41 #bdcddd ,grote1 ,f4 ,w41 #chddg ,grout1 ,william1 #bdfbi ,grover1 ,william ,o41 #adief1 #ccggh1 #cfdje1 #ajjaci ,grover1 ,william ,o41 and ,baker1 ,william ,e41 #gica ,guinness1 ,william ,s41 #daiaf ,gullrandsen1 ,p4 ,e41 and ,rettinger1 ,j4 ,c41 #ahjbbe ,gutmann1 ,julius1 #ijebh ,halbert1 ,a4 ,w41 #gfjgf ,hall1 ,william1 #bdhgj ,hale1 ,william ,s41 #cfjhd ,hall1 ,luther1 #dcdjd ,hall1 ,l41 #ajecbi ,hall1 ,john ,s41 #afhfcg1 #ahgjjf ,hallenbeck1 ,j4 ,p41 #dbedbb ,hallett1 ,h4 ,h41 #aiaehd ,hamm1 ,e41 #baiegh ,hancock1 ,henry ,j41 #hcdib1 #aabjcc ,hanlon1 ,john1 #ebhdg ,happe1 ,j41 and ,newman1 ,w41 #acjgae1 #acgaii ,hardie1 ,j4 ,w41 #cjhed ,harris1 ,daniel1 #agejh1 #agega ,harris1 ,david1 #ahebbh ,harrison1 ,j4 ,jr41 #ajgfc1 #acfaf1 #bejac1 #bebfb ,hart1 ,william1 #ejdfi ,hayes1 ,james1 #eejbi ,hayden1 ,h4 ,w41 #bdicg ,heberling1 ,j41 #bjdfjd1 #bbgbdi1 #bbgebe1 #bhdcjj ,hecht1 ,a41 #ejdgc ,heery1 ,luke1 #idgdj ,heidenthal1 ,william1 #abggfe ,helwig1 ,arthur1 #cejcfd ,hendrick1 ,joseph ,e41 #aiffj1 #bagbb ,hendrickson1 ,e4 ,m41 #cdccj ,henriksen1 ,h4 ,p41 #ajdeij1 #ahheae1 #baefae ,hensel1 ,george1 #bdgcg ,herron1 ,a4 ,c41 #bjeeg ,hesse1 ,joseph1 #bcejhe ,heyer1 ,w4 ,d41 #djfbb ,heyer1 ,frederick1 #cjgca ,hicks1 ,william ,c41 #bfjce1 #bibfh ,hinkley1 ,jonas1 #bebca ,hinds1 ,jesse ,l41 #acaaff ,hine1 ,charles ,m41 #dbjchb ,hine1 ,charlie ,m41 #bdfacf ,hodgkins1 ,christopher1 #icfe1 #ccjhe1 #fifff ,hoefler1 ,j41 #bdfhhc ,hoffman1 ,george ,w41 #idaab ,hoffman1 ,clara ,p41 and ,meyers1 ,nicholas1 #bjgjce ,holden1 ,o4 ,j41 and ,griswold1 ,l41 #bgbjej ,hollowell1 ,j4 ,g41 #bgfbd ,holly1 ,birdsill1 #bhagf ,hook1 ,albert ,h41 #bbagi1 #bdjbg ,horr1 ,addison ,d41 #adihfb ,house1 ,james ,a41 #bjfbci ,house1 ,james ,a41 and ,house1 ,henry ,a41 #cficb1 #ciddb1 #cidde1 #eehfe1 #hgcch1 #aadbid ,howard1 ,c4 ,w41 #abfjef1 #abfjeg ,howard1 ,t4 ,s4 ,l41 #aiibjf ,howard1 ,e4 ,l41 #aeddhe ,howard1 ,e41 and ,jackson1 ,w4 ,h41 #ajcgde ,howe1 ,amasa ,bemis1 #cgiac ,howe1 ,elias1 #dgej1 #afdcf ,hubbard1 ,george ,w41 #ahijd1 #baecg ,hull1 ,e4 ,h41 #bedbag ,humphrey1 ,d4 ,w4 ,g41 #cffag1 #difbg ,hunt1 ,walter1 #aaafa ,huntington1 ,thomas ,s41 #aehbad ,hurtu1 ,auguste ,j41 #behgfa1 #caejcg ,hurtu1 ,auguste ,j41 and ,hautin1 ,victor ,j41 #ihjfd ,ingalls1 ,n41 ,jr41 #babfjb ,jackson1 ,francis1 #eaijfd ,jackson1 ,william1 #ahaida ,jacob1 ,frederick1 #aijjdg ,jencks1 ,g4 ,l41 #gdfid ,jennings1 ,l41 #afbcg ,johnson1 ,albert ,f41 #afchg1 #bjfhf1 #bfidh ,johnson1 ,w4 ,h41 #ajeig ,jones1 ,john ,t41 #hfafc1 #aagfdj1 #afiajf ,jones1 ,samuel ,h41 #adjfca ,jones1 ,solomon1 #aahecg1 #aahech ,jones1 ,william1 and ,haughian1 ,p41 #cbbig ,juengst1 ,george1 #bgacb1 #bbhhbj ,junker1 ,carl1 #bagaab ,kallmeyer1 ,g41 #acgfhi ,keats1 ,alphonso1 #bfjiij ,keats1 ,john1 #aihabj ,keats1 ,john2 ,greenwood1 ,arthur2 and ,keats1 ,alphonso1 #agafbb ,keats1 ,john1 and ,clark4 ,wm4 ,s41 #ejiie ,keith1 ,jeremiah1 #igeah1 #agjgda1 #aifhji1 #bjiabf1 #bdcgaj ,keith1 ,t4 ,h41 #aifiji ,keith1 ,t4 ,k41 #agjiee ,kelsey1 ,d41 #bdici ,kendall1 ,george ,f41 #ajahhg ,kern1 ,ferdinand1 #dgicfi ,kilbourn1 ,e4 ,e41 #eigdf ,kjalman1 ,h4 ,n41 #bceghc ,knoch1 ,charles ,f41 #ahcdjj ,koch1 ,william1 #bfbbih ,koch1 ,friederich1 and ,brass1 ,robert1 #achhih1 #adebae ,lamb1 ,isaac ,w41 #ajifcb ,lamb1 ,thomas1 #ihcij1 #aahgbh ,lamb1 ,thomas1 and ,allen1 ,john1 #didba ,lamson1 ,henry ,p41 #giegi ,landfear1 ,william ,r41 #ajidbg1 #aeeaic ,langdon1 ,leander ,w41 #acgbg1 #cibef ,lathbury1 ,e4 ,t41 #aggdd ,lathrop1 ,lebbeus ,w41 #acijfg ,lathrop1 ,lebbeus ,w41 and de ,sanno1 ,william ,p41 #djddf ,lawrence1 ,g4 ,h41 #bijhie ,lazelle1 ,w4 ,h41 #ahiae ,leavitte1 ,albert1 #agaadg ,leavitt1 ,rufus1 #cjfcd ,leavitt1 ,albert1 and ,drew1 ,henry ,l41 #ahghgd ,legat1 ,d4 ,m41 #bahchh ,legg1 ,albert1 and ,weston1 ,charles ,w41 #dgdhdj ,leslie1 ,a4 ,m41 #bdahjh ,leyden1 ,austin1 #egaeg ,lingley1 ,john ,w41 #cfhech ,lipe1 ,c4 ,e41 #bbicbb ,lisle1 ,myron ,c41 #dbhaga ,ludeke1 ,waldemar1 #bgeejf1 #cjjchj ,lyon1 ,lucius1 #hidhi1 #ifgac1 #ajehbj ,lyon1 ,w41 #abjff ,macauley1 ,f4 ,a41 #aieici ,mack1 ,william ,a41 #cheib ,mallary1 ,g4 ,h41 #cahig ,mann1 ,charles1 #cceef ,marble1 ,f4 ,e41 #ccdci ,marin1 ,charles1 #agigji ,martin1 ,w41 ,jr42 ,dawson1 ,d4 ,r42 and ,orchar1 ,r41 #bjfgdc ,martine1 ,charles ,f41 #ajdfab ,meyers1 ,nicholas1 #iighc ,melhuish1 ,r4 ,m41 #aidfaj ,mc,closkey1 ,john1 #eefhh1 #afaecd ,mc,clure1 ,a4 ,t41 #acjche ,mc,kay1 ,gordon1 and ,blake1 ,lyman1 #dbiaf ,mc,kay1 ,gordon1 #ahhhji ,mc,lean1 ,j4 ,n41 #hhdii ,mc,combs1 ,george ,f41 #bjhdjg ,mc,curdy1 ,james ,s41 #bdcie1 #bfbcd1 #bhjig1 #bhiic1 #cfbef1 #chica1 #dfcjc1 #ecgdc ,miehling1 ,charles1 #ceaiib ,miller1 ,charles1 #iaci1 #bfdfb ,miller1 ,westley1 #bjgfc ,miller1 ,lebbens ,b41 and ,diehl1 ,philipp1 #bbifbi1 #bgdcei ,mills1 ,daniel1 #ifidd1 #bfehej1 #caccei ,mooney1 ,john ,h41 #bbbbih1 #bdddgj ,moore1 ,charles1 #bajae ,moreau1 ,eugene1 #aajffi1 #aefaga ,morley1 ,j4 ,h41 #bbhiah1 #bcfcej ,morrell1 ,r4 ,w42 ,parkinson1 ,t42 ,parkinson1 ,j41 #bjbheg ,morrison1 ,t4 ,w41 #bafbhi ,muegge1 ,c4 ,a41 #ccbbjg ,mueller1 ,h41 #bhiif ,muir1 ,william1 #adgaeb ,murphy1 ,e41 #agfhhj ,nasch1 ,isidor1 #ajdfcj ,necker1 ,carl1 #aagaja ,nettleton1 ,william ,h41 and ,raymond1 ,charles1 #agjdi1 #ahcej ,newell1 ,george ,f41 #bdbdgj ,newlove1 ,thomas1 #bggfa ,norton1 ,b4 ,f41 #cbghb ,o',neil1 ,john1 #acgfah ,oram1 ,henry1 #aheieb ,osborne1 ,j4 ,h41 #bbdbai ,otis1 ,s4 ,l41 #bbajic ,osterhout1 ,james ,a41 and ,hallenbeck1 ,joseph ,p41 #djbfaj ,page1 ,charles1 #ifcdc1 #aejdgi ,paine1 ,a4 ,r41 #bgdab ,palmateer1 ,william ,a41 #ahgdgi ,palmer1 ,aaron1 #cebeb ,palmer1 ,c4 ,h41 #chdej1 #abdfid1 #bdjgeh ,palmer1 ,frank ,l41 #aheied ,palmer1 ,john ,h41 #bihbbh ,parham1 ,charles1 #ajiddc1 #aceegi ,parker1 ,sidney1 #aiffb1 #bdghj ,parks1 ,volney1 #abiiha ,parmenter1 ,charles ,o41 #babdie ,payne1 ,r4 ,s41 #cjfda ,pearson1 ,m4 ,h41 #aiiiia ,pearson1 ,william1 #bfbja ,pearson1 ,william1 #affhje1 #agbdgh ,perry1 ,james1 #bbadh ,piper1 ,d4 ,b41 #efiij ,pipo1 ,john ,a41 #cgeej ,pitt1 ,james2 ,joseph2 ,edward2 and ,william1 #aagbjc ,planer1 ,louis1 #dcibg ,porter1 ,d4 ,a41 #addhfd ,porter1 ,alonzo1 #iigjd ,porter1 ,d',arcy1 and ,baker1 ,george ,w41 #agdgjc ,powell1 ,thomas1 #ddbfie ,pratt1 ,samuel ,f41 #afgde1 #bbbdj ,ragan1 ,daniel1 #acgcba ,ramsden1 ,john ,w41 #bfbaaf ,randel1 ,william1 #aibjjh ,rayer1 ,william ,a41 and ,lincoln1 ,william ,s41 #ajhhbg ,raymond1 ,charles1 #aifab1 #bbbbj1 #cbghe1 #cbibe ,reed1 ,t4 ,k41 #fjbda1 #fbbhg ,rehfuss1 ,george1 #djcaa1 #eajhf1 #faajb1 #gcaai ,reynolds1 ,o4 ,s41 #aigic ,rice1 ,t4 ,m41 #agffhf ,rice1 ,quartus1 #cadbi ,richards1 ,jean ,e41 #bebgii ,richardson1 ,e4 ,f41 #adefhg ,richardson1 ,everett ,p41 #adfidh1 #afeejf ,roberts1 ,william1 #bedfif ,robertson1 ,t4 ,j4 ,w41 #abjae ,robinson1 ,charles ,e41 #aajgij ,robinson1 ,frederick ,r41 #ghbd ,rodier1 ,peter1 #eifei ,roper1 ,s4 ,h41 #aaeca1 #afjbf1 #ahebb ,rose1 ,israel ,m41 #bhhad1 #cafbh ,rose1 ,reubin ,m41 #agjeif ,rosenthal1 ,sally ,adolph1 #cecigj ,ross1 ,noble ,g41 #cahbi ,ross1 ,j4 ,g41 and ,miller1 ,t4 ,l41 #achgfd ,rowe1 ,james1 #bffch1 #bgbfj ,ruddick1 ,h41 #bhech ,rudolph1 ,bruno1 #iidha ,rudolph1 ,ernst ,b4 7deceased71 ,boulter1 ,w4 ,e4 7administrator71 #ddiibg ,russell1 ,w4 ,w41 #hffie ,sage1 ,william1 #aggag ,sangster1 ,amos ,w41 #baibi ,savage1 ,elliott1 #aihgf ,sawyer1 ,irvin ,p41 and ,alsop1 ,t41 #beiah ,sawyer1 ,sylvanus1 and ,esty1 ,william1 #agdaei ,schmidt1 ,albert ,e41 #afbfig ,schwalback1 ,m41 #efhje ,scofield1 ,charles1 #bfjei ,scofield1 ,charles1 and ,rice1 ,clarke1 #bhfaj ,scribner1 ,benjamin1 ,jr41 #adfdhc ,secor1 ,j4 ,b41 #becggb ,sedmihradsky1 ,a4 ,j41 #aifdhf ,shaw1 ,e41 #bcjehj ,shaw1 ,philander1 #aafhj ,shaw1 ,a4 ,b41 #cgbjb ,shaw1 ,henry ,l41 #cbjjg ,shaw and ,clark1 #chbdf ,sheffield1 ,g4 ,v41 #acejdg ,shorey1 ,samuel ,w41 #adhgfe ,sibley1 ,j4 ,j41 #dbaag ,sidenberg1 ,william1 #aabgde1 #aaeaag ,simmons1 ,frederick1 #bafijb ,simmons1 ,a4 ,g41 and ,scofield1 ,c41 #dagij ,singer1 ,isaac ,m41 #hbid1 #ajige1 #abcfd1 #acjfe1 #acffa1 #acffb1 #addge1 #fjdcc1 #fabgj ,smalley1 ,j41 #bgegg ,smith1 ,de,witt ,c41 #deebh ,smith1 ,e4 ,h41 #bjgci1 #bajhi1 #ifafj ,smith1 ,h4 ,b41 #abbdg ,smith1 ,j4 ,m41 #caccd ,smith1 ,lewis ,h41 #cadaa1 #cbche ,smith1 ,john ,c41 #cdihh ,smith1 ,james ,h41 #adhijb ,smith1 ,wilson ,h41 #bhghe ,smith1 ,w4 ,m41 #bbeaii ,smith1 ,william ,t41 #iigdc ,smyth1 ,d4 ,m41 #abfhde1 #bcdgcb ,snediker1 ,j4 ,f41 #bbbjhi ,snyder1 ,watson1 #bbihg ,spencer1 ,james ,c41 #bdjfa ,spencer1 ,james ,h41 and ,lamb1 ,thomas1 #bbacg ,speirs1 ,john1 #aebhac ,spoehr1 ,f41 #ajaggi ,springer1 ,william ,a41 #abhiai1 #adbbij1 #adgdda ,stackpole1 ,g41 and ,applegate1 ,j4 ,h41 #bbjcad ,stannard1 ,m41 #fdahd ,stedman1 ,g4 ,w41 #abjgd1 #abegc1 #abgih1 #achef ,stein1 ,m4 ,j41 #haief1 #aaceic ,stevens1 ,george1 and ,hendy1 ,joshua1 #aaadhh ,steward1 ,a41 #bjgded ,stewart1 ,james1 ,jr41 #adacig1 #dcbddi ,stewart1 ,w4 ,t41 #bjefih ,stoakes1 ,j4 ,w41 #cbdef ,sullivan1 ,john ,j41 #agibcb ,sutton1 ,william ,a41 #bibjb ,swartwout1 ,h4 ,l41 #hiceg ,swingle1 ,a41 #adbjg ,taft1 ,j4 ,c41 #edghff ,tapley1 ,g4 ,s41 #bejei ,tarbox1 ,john ,n41 #dihjc ,tate1 ,william ,j41 #aacgjd ,taylor1 ,f4 ,b41 #adfgba ,temple1 ,john1 #cehjhh ,thayer1 ,augustus1 #agbbje ,thimonnier1 ,e41 and ,vernaz1 ,c41 #bhgeib ,thomas1 ,joseph1 #ccjagj ,thomas1 ,j41 #bcfdff ,thompson1 ,j41 #bgjhb ,thompson1 ,t4 ,c41 #ifda ,thompson1 ,rosewell1 #cdibf1 #dbddi ,thurston1 ,c4 ,h41 #bcccjj ,tittman1 ,alexander1 #hijic1 #acfgib ,toll1 ,charles ,f41 #agaaic ,tracy1 ,dwight1 #cjjab ,tracy1 ,dwight1 and ,hobbs1 ,george1 #djjjj ,trip1 ,j41 #cjhgaa ,true1 ,cyrus ,b41 #adhccf ,tucker1 ,r4 ,d41 #cbjhih ,tucker1 ,joseph ,c41 #effda ,turner1 ,m4 ,g41 #cabcjf ,turner1 ,s4 ,s41 #acceec ,tuttle1 ,j4 ,w41 and ,keith1 ,t4 ,k41 #baighb ,thompson1 ,george1 #aaebee ,uhlinger1 ,w4 ,p41 #babbd ,upson1 ,l4 ,a41 #agfaec ,van ,vechten1 ,o4 ,r41 #cjbjfc ,varicas1 ,l41 #bjdhfd ,venner1 ,o41 #acchad ,veukler1 ,w41 #beeiaf ,wagener1 ,jeptha ,a41 #djbif ,walker1 ,william1 #adadjg1 #agfaja1 #cbjjii1 #cecgbj ,walker and ,bennet1 #dbhedh ,ward1 ,d4 ,t41 #abadf ,wardwell1 ,simon ,w41 ,jr41 #abhfhd1 #adabde1 #adhcci ,warth1 ,albin1 #effdf1 #gcjfd ,washburn1 ,t4 ,s41 #cjjca ,waterbury1 ,enos1 #gijcg ,watson1 ,william ,c41 #addcc1 #ahhcd ,weber1 ,theodore ,a41 #adehbc1 #affbcf ,webb1 ,t41 and ,heartfield1 ,c4 ,h41 #bacecg ,webster1 ,w41 #ahbbdi1 #djbdig ,weitling1 ,w41 #cgica1 #deggg ,wells1 ,w4 ,w41 #bjihdc ,wensley1 ,james1 #aebjee1 #bjgbcj ,west1 ,elliott ,p41 #aaggjh1 #acjfgd1 #achggb ,west1 ,h4 ,b41 and ,willson1 ,h4 ,f41 #bjgec ,wheeler1 ,nathaniel1 #dbjhdg ,wheeler1 ,nathaniel1 and ,dial1 ,wilbur ,f41 #cbhafe ,wheeler1 ,darius1 and ,carpenter1 ,lunan1 #baajj ,whitehill1 ,robert1 #affagb ,wickersham1 ,william1 #ifgi1 #ahjfh1 #ahjfi ,wilder1 ,m4 ,g41 #cbcbc ,wilkins1 ,j4 ,n41 #cfeia ,wilkinson1 ,charles ,e41 #bfibea ,willcox1 ,charles ,h41 #dbjcf1 #dchai1 #dddij1 #dddia1 #bahdac1 #bcjbab1 #bdfgjj ,willcox1 ,c4 ,h41 and ,borton1 ,s41 #dgbjid ,willcox1 ,c4 ,h41 and ,carleton1 ,c41 #aafeba1 #aafebc1 #aafghc ,wilson1 ,allen ,b41 #gggf1 #hbif1 #ijda ,wiseman1 ,edmund1 #bbhgaa ,witherspoon1 ,s4 ,a41 #agfbaa ,winter1 ,william1 #hhicf ,wollenberg1 ,h41 and ,priesner1 ,j41 #bjfhdh ,wood1 ,john1 #ahehaa ,wood1 ,richard ,g41 #bjgibh ,woodruff1 ,george ,b41 and ,browning1 ,george1 #igjad ,woodward1 ,e41 #bdgbhe ,woodward1 ,f4 ,g41 #beghb ,woodward1 ,erastus1 and ,keith1 ,thomas ,k41 #cafibg ,wormald1 ,william1 and ,dobson1 ,edmund1 #afihha ,young1 ,e4 ,s41 and ,dimond1 ,g4 ,h41 #bjfiib ,general ,index to ,chapters #a-d ,adams and ,dodge1 #i ,aetna ,sewing ,machine ,company1 #dj ,american ,buttonhole and ,sewing ,machine ,company1 #dj ,archbold1 ,thomas1 #ac ,arrowsmith1 ,george ,a41 #aa ,bachelder1 ,john1 #bb1 #cj1 #cd1 #da1 #db ,baker1 ,william ,e41 #cf 7see ,grover ,baker7 ,bartholf1 ,a41 #bd1 #dj ,bartlett ,sewing ,machine ,company1 #dj ,bartram ,fanton ,manufacturing ,company1 #dj ,bean1 ,benjamin ,w41 #ac1 #ad1 #ae ,blees ,sewing ,machine ,company1 #dj ,bliss1 ,george1 #bd ,blodgett and ,lerow1 #bd1 #bf1 #cj ,blodgett1 ,sherbrune ,c41 #be ,bradshaw1 ,john ,a41 #ba1 #bb1 #bf1 #bg ,brown1 ,w4 ,n41 #ej ,centennial ,sewing ,machine ,company1 #dj ,chapman1 ,edward ,walter1 #g1 #ai ,chapman1 ,william1 #g ,clark1 ,d4 ,w41 #dg1 #di ,clark1 ,edward1 #cc1 #cd1 #ce ,combination1 ,sewing-,machine1 #bc1 #bd1 #ch1 #da-db1 #dg1 #dh ,conant1 ,jotham ,s41 #bb ,corliss1 ,george ,h41 #ad1 #ae1 #af ,dale1 ,john ,d41 #ed ,davis1 ,ari1 #ai ,davis ,sewing ,machine ,company1 #dj ,demorest1 ,madame1 #ec ,dodge1 ,rev4 ,john ,adam1 #i ,domestic ,sewing ,machine ,company1 #dj ,duncan1 ,john1 #f1 #ai ,elliptic ,sewing ,machine ,company1 #dj ,ellithorp1 ,s4 ,b41 #ea ,ellithorp ,fox1 #ea ,empire ,sewing ,machine ,company1 #dj ,fairy ,sewing ,machine1 #ec ,family ,sewing ,machine 7,singer71 #ce ,finkle ,lyon ,manufacturing ,company1 #dj ,fisher1 ,george1 #ai ,fisher1 ,john1 #ae1 #af ,florence ,sewing ,machine ,company1 #dj ,folsom1 ,j4 ,g41 #dj ,gibbons1 ,james1 #ae ,gibbs1 ,james ,e4 ,a41 #de1 #dh ,goddard1 ,rice ,co41 #be ,gold ,medal ,sewing ,machine ,company1 #dj1 #ec ,goodspeed ,wyman ,sewing ,machine ,company1 #dj ,grasshopper1 ,the1 #ce ,greenough1 ,john ,j41 #ac1 #ad ,grover ,baker ,sewing ,machine ,company1 #bd1 #ce1 #cg1 #ch1 #dj1 #da ,grover1 ,william ,o41 #ce1 #ch ,heberling1 ,john1 #ed ,henderson1 ,james1 #f ,hendrick1 ,joseph1 #di ,heyer1 ,w4 ,d41 #eb ,hook1 ,albert ,h41 #ej ,howe1 ,amasa ,b41 #bd ,howe1 ,elias1 ,jr41 #aa1 #ah1 #ai1 #bj1 #ba1 #bb1 #bc1 #bd1 #bh1 #bi1 #cc1 #cd1 #da1 #db1 #ach 7biographical sketch7 ,howe ,machine ,company 7,elias71 #be ,howe ,sewing ,machine ,company 7,amasa1 then ,b4 ,p471 #bd1 #be1 #dj ,hunt1 ,walter1 #aj1 #aa1 #ai1 #cc1 #ach 7biographical sketch7 ,jenny ,lind 7sewing machine71 #cj ,johnson1 ,joseph ,b41 #bb ,keystone ,sewing ,machine ,company1 #dj ,kline1 ,a4 ,p41 #bg ,knowles1 ,john1 #i ,krems1 ,balthasar1 #g1 #ai ,ladd ,webster ,sewing ,machine ,company1 #dj ,leavitt ,sewing ,machine ,company1 #dj ,lee1 ,edward1 #bg ,lee1 ,e4 ,co41 #bg1 #bh ,lerow1 ,john ,a41 #bd1 #be ,little ,gem1 #ec ,london ,sewing ,machine1 #bb ,lye1 ,henry1 #i ,mc,kay ,sewing ,machine ,association1 #dj ,madersperger1 ,josef1 #h1 #i1 #ab1 #ac ,magnin1 ,jean ,marie1 #aa1 #bb ,mason1 ,the ,honorable ,charles1 #ac ,morey1 ,charles1 #bb ,morey ,johnson1 #bc1 #cd1 #db ,newton1 ,edward1 #ac ,nichols and ,bliss1 #bd ,palmer1 ,aaron1 #eb ,parham ,sewing ,machine ,company1 #dj ,perry1 ,james1 #di ,phelps1 ,orson ,c41 #be1 #cj1 #ca ,potter1 ,orlando ,b41 #cg1 #ch1 #da ,remington ,sewing ,machine ,company1 #dj ,robertson1 ,t4 ,j4 ,w41 #dg ,rodgers1 ,james1 #ae ,safford ,williams ,makers1 #bb ,saint1 ,thomas1 #d1 #e1 #ai ,secor ,sewing ,machine ,company1 #dj ,shaw ,clark ,sewing ,machine ,co41 #dj1 #ed ,singer1 ,isaac ,merritt1 #bc1 #be1 #cj1 #ca1 #cc1 #cd1 #ce1 #da1 #adb 7biographical sketch7 ,singer1 ,i4 ,m4 ,company1 #ac1 #cb1 #cd1 #dj ,singer ,manufacturing ,co41 #cj1 #dj1 #db ,singer's ,perpendicular ,action ,sewing ,machine1 #cj1 #ca ,stone1 ,thomas1 #f ,thimonnier1 ,barthelemy1 #aa1 #ai1 #acg 7biographical sketch7 ,thomas1 ,william1 #bj ,thompson1 ,c4 ,f41 #dj ,turtleback ,machine 7,singer71 #ce ,union ,buttonhole ,machine ,company1 #dj ,warren and ,woodruff1 #bh ,weatherill1 ,jacob1 #cg ,weed ,sewing ,machine ,company1 #dj ,weisenthal1 ,charles ,f41 #d1 #ai ,wheeler ,wilson ,manufacturing ,company1 #bb1 #bi1 #cj1 #dj ,wheeler1 ,wilson and ,company1 #bd1 #bh1 #da ,wheeler1 ,nathaniel1 #bg1 #bh ,willcox and ,gibbs ,sewing ,machine ,company1 #dj1 #df1 #dh ,willcox1 ,charles1 #df1 #dh ,willcox1 ,james1 #df ,wilson1 ,allen ,benjamin1 #bf1 #bg1 #bh1 #bi1 #cj1 #ada 7biographical sketch74 7,see ,wheeler ,wilson47 ,wilson1 ,newton1 #d ,wilson1 7,w4 ,g471 ,sewing ,machine ,company1 #dj ,woolridge1 ,keene1 and ,moore1 #bd ,zieber1 ,george1 #cj1 #cc ,transcriber's ,notes3 ,table layouts have been changed to avoid very long line lengths4 ,footnotes have been moved to ,chapter ends4 ,minor punctuation errors have been corrected without note4 ,the following typographical errors have been corrected_/noted3 ,footnote #i ,praktisches ,wissen von der ,nhmaschine4--was ,praktisches wissen von der ,nhmaschine4 p4 #aa a loop in the other--was a loop in the the other p4 #ai chainstitch1 ,thimonnier used--was chainstitch1 ,thimmonier used p4 #gf known to be in existence is--was known to be in eixstence is p4 #hj #geja-abejj1 #ahgc2--was #geja-abejj1 #hagc2 p4 #aai shaped like an open 8 into which--,a letter or symbol appears to be missing in the original between open and into4 p4 #aai #ahaafa-bbjcah--overlaps range of previous entry4 p4 #acj ,june #cj1 #ahgd #aeb1fah--was ,jan4 #cj1 #ahgd #aeb1fah p4 #ach ,villefranche-sur-,sane--was ,ville-franche-sur-,sane p4 #ade ,praktisches ,wissen von der ,nhmaschine4--was ,praktisches wissin von der ,nhmaschine4 p4 #aec ,o',neil1 ,john1 #acgfah--was ,o',niel1 ,john1 #acgfah