from the ,google ,print project47 ,illustration3 ,,bookcover ,illustration3 ,,cologne ,,cathedral ,illustration3 ,,map of the ,,rhine ,,valley ,,the ,,cathedrals ,,and ,,churches ,,of ,,the ,,rhine ,by ,,francis ,,miltoun ,,author ,,of ,,the ,,cathedrals ,,of ,,northern ,,france1 ,,the ,,cathedrals ,,of ,,southern ,,france1 ,,dickens' ,,london1 ,,etc41 ,,with ,,ninety ,,illustrations1 ,,plans1 ,,and ,,diagrams1 ,by ,,blanche ,mc,m,a,n,u,s ,illustration ,,boston ,l4 ,c4 ,page and ,company ,,publishers ,copyright1 #aije ,,by ,l4 ,c4 ,,page ,,company 7,,incorporated7 ,all rights reserved ,published ,september1 #aije ,second ,impression1 ,may1 #aiji ,,colonial ,,press ,electrotyped and ,printed by ,c4 ,h4 ,simonds ,co4 ,boston1 ,u4 ,s4 ,a4 ,,contents ,,chapter ,,page ,apologia v ,i4 ,introductory #a ,,ii4 ,the ,rhine ,cities and ,towns #ac ,,iii4 ,the ,church in ,germany #bi ,,iv4 ,some ,characteristics of ,rhenish ,architecture #dj ,v4 ,the ,accessories of ,german ,churches #ef ,,vi4 ,constance and ,schaffhausen #fh ,,vii4 ,basel and ,colmar #hc ,,viii4 ,freiburg #ic ,,ix4 ,strasburg #ig ,x4 ,metz #aad ,,xi4 ,speyer #abg ,,xii4 ,carlsruhe1 ,darmstadt1 and ,wiesbaden #acd ,,xiii4 ,heidelberg and ,mannheim #adb ,,xiv4 ,worms #adi ,,xv4 ,frankfort #aee ,,xvi4 ,mayence #afa ,,xvii4 ,bacharach1 ,bingen1 and ,rudesheim #agb ,,xviii4 ,limburg #aha ,,xix4 ,coblenz and ,boppart #ahg ,,xx4 ,laach and ,stolzenfels #aid ,,xxi4 ,andernach and ,sinzig #aii ,,xxii4 ,trves #bjb ,,xxiii4 ,bonn #bjh ,,xxiv4 ,godesberg and ,rolandseck #bbf ,,xxv4 ,cologne and ,its ,cathedral #bcb ,,xxvi4 ,the ,churches of ,cologne #bfd ,,xxvii4 ,aix-la-,chapelle #bgg ,,xxviii4 ,lige #bie ,,xxix4 ,dsseldorf1 ,neuss1 and ,mnchen-,gladbach #cjd ,,xxx4 ,essen and ,dortmund #cah ,,xxxi4 ,emmerich1 ,clves1 and ,xanten #cbf ,,xxxii4 ,arnheim1 ,utrecht1 and ,leyden #cca ,appendix #cdg ,index #cfc ,,list ,,of ,,illustrations ,,page ,cologne ,cathedral ,frontispiece ,general ,view of ,leyden facing #h ,general ,view of ,dsseldorf facing #bd ,worms ,cathedral facing #fj ,chandelier1 ,aix-la-,chapelle #fd ,font1 ,limburg #ff ,constance ,cathedral #gj ,coat of ,arms1 ,constance #hb ,cathedral ,clock1 ,basel #he ,basel and ,its ,cathedral facing #hf ,coat of ,arms1 ,basel #ib ,freiburg ,cathedral facing #id ,coat of ,arms1 ,freiburg #if ,ancient ,church ,foundation1 ,strasburg 7diagram7 #aja ,strasburg ,cathedral facing #ajb ,coat of ,arms1 ,strasburg #aac ,metz #aae ,speyer ,cathedral #abi ,greek ,chapel1 ,wiesbaden facing #adj ,coat of ,arms1 ,darmstadt #ada ,heidelberg and ,its ,castle facing #adf ,frankfort ,cathedral facing #aef ,coat of ,arms1 ,frankfort #afj ,cenotaph of ,drusus1 ,mayence #afb ,mayence ,cathedral facing #aff ,bacharach #agc ,bishop ,hatto's ,mouse ,tower #age ,coat of ,arms1 ,bingen #ahj ,limburg ,cathedral facing #ahb ,coblenz and ,its ,bridge facing #aij ,general ,view of ,boppart facing #aib ,coat of ,arms1 ,coblenz #aic ,abbey of ,laach 7restored7 #aie ,stolzenfels ,castle #aig ,coat of ,arms1 ,laach #aih ,general ,view of ,andernach facing #bjj ,sinzig ,church #bje ,trves ,cathedral facing #bad ,pulpit1 ,trves ,cathedral #baf ,coat of ,arms1 ,trves #bai ,general ,view of ,bonn facing #bbj ,apse1 ,bonn ,cathedral #bba ,convent of ,nonnenwerth #bbi ,general ,view of ,cologne facing #bcb ,cologne ,cathedral in #ahbj #bed ,stone-masons' ,marks1 ,cologne ,cathedral #bfb ,coat of ,arms1 ,cologne #bfc ,font1 ,st4 ,martin's1 ,cologne #bfg ,gross ,st4 ,martin1 ,cologne #bfi ,st4 ,gron's1 ,cologne facing #bgb ,coat of ,arms1 ,cologne #bgf ,charlemagne #bgi ,aix-la-,chapelle ,cathedral in ,i,xth ,century #bhc ,aix-la-,chapelle ,cathedral facing #bij ,coat of ,arms1 ,aix-la-,chapelle #bid ,general ,view of ,lige facing #bif ,coat of ,arms1 ,lige #cjc ,neuss ,cathedral #cji ,coat of ,arms1 ,dsseldorf #cag ,general ,view of ,essen facing #cah ,seven-branched ,candlestick1 ,essen #cba ,coat of ,arms1 ,essen #cbe ,st4 ,victor's1 ,xanten #cbi ,general ,view of ,arnheim facing #ccb ,general ,view of ,utrecht facing #cdj ,round ,church in the ,i,xth ,century1 ,aix-la-,chapelle 7diagram7 #cdg ,st4 ,genevieve1 ,andernach 7diagram7 #cdh ,bonn ,cathedral 7diagram7 #cdi ,st4 ,castor1 ,coblenz 7diagram7 #cej ,ancient ,cathedral1 ,cologne 7diagram7 #cea ,present ,cathedral1 ,cologne 7diagram7 #cea ,st4 ,maria in ,capitolia1 ,cologne 7diagram7 #ceb ,st4 ,cunibert's1 ,cologne 7diagram7 #ceb ,st4 ,martin's1 ,cologne 7diagram7 #cec ,church of the ,apostles1 ,cologne 7diagram7 #cec ,st4 ,gron's1 ,cologne 7diagram7 #cec ,crypt1 ,st4 ,gron's1 ,cologne 7diagram7 #cec ,constance ,cathedral 7diagram7 #ced ,freiburg ,cathedral 7diagram7 #cee ,abbey of ,laach 7diagram7 #cef ,mayence ,cathedral 7diagram7 #ceh ,gothard ,chapel1 ,mayence 7diagram7 #ceh ,abbey ,church1 ,mnchen-,gladbach 7diagram7 #cei ,st4 ,quirinus1 ,neuss 7diagram7 #cei ,schaffhausen ,cathedral 7diagram7 #cfj ,speyer ,cathedral 7diagram7 #cfj ,trves ,cathedral 7diagram7 #cfa ,st4 ,martin1 ,worms 7diagram7 #cfb ,,apologia ,the ,rhine provinces stand for all that is best and most characteristic of the ecclesiastical architecture of ,germany1 as contrasted with that very distinct species known as ,french pointed or ,gothic4 ,for this reason the present volume of the series1 which follows the ,cathedrals of ,northern and ,southern ,france1 deals with a class of ecclesiastical architecture entirely different from the light1 flamboyant style which has made so many of the great cathedral churches of ,france preminently famous4 ,save ,cologne1 there is no great cathedral1 either in ,germany or the ,low ,countries1 which in any way rivals the masterpieces of ,paris1 ,reims1 or ,amiens1 or even ,lincoln or ,york in ,england4 ,strasburg and ,metz are in a way reminiscent of much that is ,french1 but in the main the cathedrals and churches of the ,rhine are of a species distinct and complete in itself4 ,any consideration of the ,rhine cities and towns1 and the ecclesiastical monuments which they contain1 must perforce deal largely with the picturesque and romantic elements of the river's legendary past4 ,not all of these legends deal with mere romance1 as the world well knows4 ,the religious element has ever played a most important part in the greater number of the ,rhine legends4 ,for demonstration1 one has only to recall the legends of ,the ,architect of ,cologne1 of ,bishop ,hatto and ,his ,mouse ,tower on the ,rhine1 and of many others relating to the devout men and women who in times past lived their lives here4 ,in the ,low ,countries also1--at ,lige1 where we have ,the ,legend of the ,ligeois1 and at ,antwerp1 where we have ,the ,legend of the ,blacksmith1--and indeed throughout the whole ,rhine watershed there is abundant material to draw from with respect to the religious legend alone4 ,as for the purely romantic legends1 like ,the ,trumpeter of ,sackingen and ,the ,lorelei1 there is manifestly neither room nor occasion for recounting them in a work such as this1 and so1 frankly1 they are intentionally omitted4 ,in general1 this book aims to be an account of the great churches in the ,rhine valley1 and of that species of architectural style which is known as ,rhenish4 ,there is a fund of interesting detail to be gathered in out-of-the-way corners in regard to these grand edifices and their pious founders1 but not all of it can be even catalogued here4 ,the most that can be attempted is to point out certain obvious facts in connection with these ecclesiastical monuments1 not neglecting the pictorial representation as well4 ,tourists have well worn the roads along both banks of the ,rhine1 from ,cologne to ,mayence1 but above and below is a still larger and no less interesting country1 which has been comparatively neglected4 ,not all the interest of the ,rhine lies in its castled crags or its vine-clad slopes1 and not all the history of the middle ages emanated from feudal strongholds4 ,the ,church here1 as in ,france1 played its part and played it gloriously4 ,in this discussion of the ,rhine churches from ,constance to ,leyden1 the reader will be taken on what might1 with considerable license1 be called an architectural tour of the ,rhine1 and will be allowed to ramble along the banks of the river1 looking in and out of the various religious edifices with which its cities and towns are crowded4 ,the valley of the ,rhine is no undiscovered land1 but it served the purpose of the author and the artist well1 for it presents much variety of architectural form1 and an abounding and appealing interest by reason of the shadows of the past still lingering over these monuments in stone4 ,the ,cathedrals and ,churches of the ,rhine ,i ,,introductory ,there is no topographical division of ,europe which more readily defines itself and its limits than the ,rhine valley from ,schaffhausen to where the river empties into the ,north ,sea4 ,the region has given birth to history and legend of a most fascinating character1 and the manners and customs of the people who dwell along its banks are varied and picturesque4 ,under these circumstances it was but to be expected that architectural development should have expressed itself in a decided and unmistakable fashion4 ,one usually makes the ,rhine tour as an interlude while on the way to ,switzerland or the ,italian lakes1 with little thought of its geographical and historical importance in connection with the development of modern ,europe4 ,it was the onward march of civilization1 furthered by the ,romans1 through this greatest of natural highways to the north1 that gave the first political and historical significance to the country of the ,rhine watershed4 ,and from that day to this the ,rhenish provinces and the ,low ,countries bordering upon the sea have occupied a prominent place in history4 ,there is a distinct and notable architecture1 confined almost1 one may say1 to the borders of the ,rhine1 which the expert knows as ,rhenish1 if it can be defined at all2 and which is distinct from that variety of pre-,gothic architecture known as ,romanesque4 ,it has been developed mainly in the building of ecclesiastical edifices1 and the churches and cathedrals of the ,rhine valley1 through ,germany and the ,netherlands1 are a species which1 if they have not the abounding popular interest of the great ,gothic churches of ,france1 are quite as lordly and imposing as any of their class elsewhere4 ,the great cathedral at ,cologne stands out among its ,gothic compeers as the beau-ideal of our imagination1 while the cathedral at ,tournai1 in ,belgium--which1 while not exactly of the ,rhine1 is contiguous to it--is the prototype of more than one of the lesser and primitive ,gothic cathedrals of ,france1 and has even lent its quadruple elevation to ,notre ,dame at ,paris1 and was possibly the precursor of the cathedral at ,limburg-on-,lahn4 ,from this it will be inferred that the builders of the churches of the ,rhine country were no mere tyros or experimenters1 but rather that they were possessed of the best talents of the time4 ,there is much of interest awaiting the lover of churches who makes even the conventional ,rhine tour1 though mostly the tourist in these parts has heretofore reserved his sentiments and emotions for the admiration of its theatrical-looking crags and castles1 the memory of its legends of the ,lorelei1 etc41 a nodding acquaintance with the castle of ,heidelberg1 and a proper or improper appreciation of the waterside beer-gardens of ,cologne4 ,for the most part the real romance and history of the ,rhine1 as it flows from its source in the ,grisons to the ,north ,sea1 has been neglected4 ,there are a large number of persons who are content to admire the popular attractions of convention2 sometimes they evoke an interest somewhat out of the ordinary1 but up to now apparently no one has gone to the ,rhine with the sole object of visiting its magnificent gallery of ecclesiastical treasures4 ,no one glows with enthusiasm at the mention of these ,rhenish churches as they do for the ,gothic marvels of ,france4 ,it is1 of course1 impossible1 in spite of ,cologne1 ,speyer1 and ,strasburg1 that they should supplant ,reims1 ,amiens1 ,chartres1 or ,rouen in the popular fancy1 to say nothing of real excellence2 for these four ,french examples represent nearly all that is best in medival church architecture4 ,the ,reformation in ,germany1 with its attendant unrest1 accounts for a certain latitude and variety in the types of church fitments1 as well as--in many cases--an unconventional arrangement or disposition of the fabric itself4 ,one thing is most apparent with regard to ,german churches in general1--the fittings and paraphernalia1 as distinct from the constructive or decorative elements of the fabric1 are far more ornate and numerous than in churches of a similar rank elsewhere4 ,it is true that the ,revolution played its part of destruction along the ,rhine1 but in spite of this there is an abundance of sculpture and other ornament still left4 ,thus one almost always finds elaborate choir-stalls1 screens1 pulpits1 and altar-pieces1 of a quantity and excellence that contrast strongly with the severe outlines of the fabric which shelters them4 ,in connection with the architectural forms of the ecclesiastical buildings of a country must invariably be considered such secular and civic establishments as represent the state in its relation to the ,church1 and along the ,rhine1 as elsewhere on the continent of ,europe1 the past forms an inseparable link which still binds the two4 ,here1 not only the public architecture1 but the private1 domestic architecture takes on forms which1 varied though they are1 belong to no other regions4 ,they are1 moreover1 only to be judged at their true value when considered as a thing of yesterday1 rather than of to-day4 ,that portion of the ,rhine which is best worth knowing1 according to the ideas of the conventional tourist1 is that which lies between ,cologne and ,mayence4 ,this is the region of the travel-agencies1 and of the droves of sightseers who annually sweep down upon the legendary ,rhine1 as they have learned to call it1 on foot1 on bicycle1 and by train1 steamboat1 and automobile4 ,above and below these cities is a great world of architectural wealth which has not the benefit of even a nodding acquaintance with most new-century travellers4 ,to them ,strasburg is mostly a myth1 though even the vague memory of the part it played in the ,franco-,prussian war ought to stamp it as something more than that1 to say nothing of its awkwardly spired1 but very beautiful and most ancient cathedral4 ,still farther down the river one comes to ,dsseldorf1 that most modern of ,german cities4 ,at ,neuss1 a short distance from ,dsseldorf1 is the church of ,st4 ,quirinus1 which will live in the note-books of architectural students as one of the great buildings of the world4 ,it is a singularly ample river-bottom that is drained by the ,rhine from its ,alpine source to the sea1 and one which offers practically an inexhaustible variety of charming environment2 and here1 as elsewhere1 architecture plays no small part in reflecting the manners1 customs1 and temperaments of the people4 ,of the value of the artistic pretensions of the people of ,holland we have mostly obtained our opinions from the pictures of ,teniers1 or from the illustrated post-cards1 which show clean-looking maidens bedecked in garments that look as though they had just been laundered4 ,to these might be added advertisements of chocolate and other articles which show to some extent the quaint windmills and dwelling-houses of the towns4 ,apart from these there is little from which to judge of the wealth of architectural treasures of this most fascinating of countries1 whose churches1 if they are bare and gaunt in many ways1 are at least as sympathetic in their appealing interest as many situated in a less austere climate4 ,to realize this one has but to recall the ship-model-hung ,kerk at ,haarlem2 the quaint little minaret which rises above the roof tops of ,leyden2 or1 the grandest of all1 the ,groote ,kerk of ,rotterdam1 which1 on a cloud-riven autumn day1 composes itself into varying moods and symphonies which would have made ,whistler himself eager and envious of its beauty and grandeur4 ,in so far as this book deals only with the churches and cathedrals of the ,rhine1 and follows the course of the ,neder ,rijn and the ,oud ,rijn through ,holland1 there are but three ,dutch cities which bring themselves naturally into line3 ,arnheim1 ,utrecht1 and ,leyden4 ,so far as ,americans are concerned1 there is a warm spot in their hearts for ,old ,holland1 when they remember the brave little band of ,pilgrims who gathered at ,leyden and set sail from ,delfthaven for their new home across the seas4 ,this was but three hundred years ago1 which1 so far as the antiquity of ,european civilization goes1 counts for but little4 ,it is something1 however1 to realize that the medival architectural monuments of these places are the very ones which the ,pilgrims themselves knew4 ,it is true1 however1 that their outlook upon life was too austere to have allowed them to absorb any great amount of the artistic expression of the ,dutch1 but they must unquestionably have been impressed with the general appropriateness of the architecture around them4 ,illustration3 ,,general ,,view of ,,leyden ,below ,dsseldorf the topography and architectural features alike change rapidly1 and the true ,rhenish architecture of heavy arches1 with an occasional sprinkling of fairy-like ,gothic1 really begins4 ,neuss1 ,essen1 and all the ,westphalian group of solidly built mnsters speak volumes for ,german medival church architecture1 while up the ,rhine1 past ,dsseldorf1 ,cologne1 ,bonn1 ,knigswater1 ,remagen1 ,sinzig1 ,andernach1 ,coblenz1 and all the way to ,mayence1 and on past ,schaffhausen to ,basel are at least three score of interesting old churches as far different from those elsewhere as could possibly be imagined1 and yet all so like1 one to another1 that they are of a species by themselves2 all except the cathedral at ,cologne1 which follows the best practice of the ,french1 except that its nave is absurdly short for its great breadth1 and that its ponderous towers stand quite alone in their class4 ,in general1 then1 the cathedrals and churches of the ,rhine form a wonderful collection of masterpieces of architectural art with which most well-informed folk in the world to-day should have a desire for acquaintanceship4 ,these often austere edifices1 when seen near by1 may not appeal to the popular fancy as do those of ,france and ,england1 and they may not even have the power to so appeal2 but1 such as they are1 they are quite as worthy of serious consideration and ardent admiration as any structures of their kind in existence1 and they have1 in addition1 an environment which should make a journey among them1 along the banks of the ,rhine from its source to the sea1 one of the most enjoyable experiences of life4 ,the ,rhine loses none of its charms by intimate acquaintance2 its history and legends stand out with even more prominence2 and the quaint architectural forms of its cities are at least characteristically convincing4 ,remains of every period may be found by the antiquary1 from the time when the ,roman eagle was triumphant throughout the dominion of the ,franks to feudal and warlike times nearer our own day4 ,in addition1 there are ever to be found evidences of the frugality and thrift of the ,germans which preserve the best traditions of other days4 ,the love of the ,rhineland in the breast of the ,teuton is an indescribable sentiment2 a confusion of the higher and lower emotions4 ,it is characteristic of the national genius4 ,we have been told1 and rightly3 ,you cannot paint the ,rhine1 you cannot even describe it1 for picture or poem would leave out half of the whole delicious confusion4 ,the ,rhine1 however1 can be set to music1 and that apparently is just what has been done4 ,everywhere one hears the music of the fatherland4 ,whether it is the songs and madrigals of the ,church1 or of the ,german bands in the ,volksgarten1 it is always the same1 a light1 irrepressible emotion which does much toward elucidating the complex ,german character4 ,nowhere more than at ,cologne is this contrast apparent4 ,it is the most delightful of all ,rhine cities4 ,usually tourists go there1 or are sent there--which is about what it amounts to in most cases--in order to begin their ,rhine tour4 ,before they start up-stream1 they stroll about the city1 pop in and out of its glorious cathedral1 and perhaps one or another of its magnificent churches1--if they happen to be on their line of march to or from some widely separated points1--make the usual purchase of real eau de ,cologne1--though doubtless they are deceived into buying a poor imitation1--and wind up in a river-side concert-garden1 with much music and beer-drinking in the open4 ,this is all proper enough1 but this book does not aim at recounting a round of these delights4 ,it deals1 if not with the ,teutonic emotions themselves1 at least with the expression of them in the magnificent and picturesquely disposed churches of both banks of the ,rhine1 from its source to the sea4 ,,ii ,,the ,,rhine ,,cities ,,and ,,towns ,csar1 ,charlemagne1 and ,napoleon all played their great parts in the history of the ,rhine1 and1 in later days1 historians1 poets1 and painters of all shades of ability and opinion have done their part to perpetuate its glories4 ,the ,rhine valley formed a part of three divisions of the ancient ,gaul conquered by the ,romans3 ,la ,belgica1 toward the coast of the ,north ,sea2 ,germanica ,i41 with ,moguntiacum 7,mayence7 as its capital2 and ,germanica ,,ii41 with ,colonia ,agrippina 7,cologne7 as its chief town4 ,the ,rhine was the great barrier between the ,romans and the ,german tribes1 and1 in the time of ,tiberius1 eight legions guarded the frontier4 ,the political and economic influences which overflowed from the ,rhine valley have been most momentous4 ,the ,rhine formed one of the great ,roman highways to the north1 and it is interesting to note that the first description of it is ,csar's1 though he himself had little familiarity with it4 ,he wrote of the rapidity of its flow1 and built1 or caused to be built1 a wooden bridge over it1 between ,coblenz and ,andernach4 ,in the history of the ,rhine we have a history of ,europe4 ,a boundary of the empire of ,csar1 it afterward gave passage to the barbarian hordes who overthrew imperial ,rome4 ,charlemagne made it the outpost of his power1 and later the ,church gained strength in the cities on its banks1 while monasteries and feudal strongholds rose up quickly one after another4 ,orders of chivalry were established at ,mayence2 and knights of the ,teutonic order1 of ,rhodes1 and of the ,temple1 appeared upon the scene4 ,the minnesinger and the troubadour praised its wines1 told of its contests1 and celebrated its victories4 ,the hills1 the caves1 the forests1 the stream1 and the solid rocks themselves were tenanted by superstition1 by oreads1 mermaids1 gnomes1 ,black ,huntsmen1 and demons in all imaginable fantastic shapes4 ,meantime the towns were growing under the influence of trade1--the grimy power that destroyed the feudal system4 ,the ,reformed religion found an advocate at ,constance in ,john ,huss even before ,luther fulminated against ,rome2 printing was accomplished by ,gutenberg at ,mayence2 and now steam and electricity have awakened a new era4 ,csar1 ,attila1 ,clovis1 ,charlemagne1 ,frederick ,barbarossa1 ,rudolph of ,hapsburg1 the ,palatine ,frederick the ,first1 ,gustavus ,adolphus1 and ,napoleon have been victorious upon its banks4 ,what more could fate do to give the stream an almost immortality of fame8 ,little by little there were established on the banks of the river populous posts and centres of commerce4 ,the military camps of ,drusus had grown into settled communities1 until to-day are found along the ,rhine the great cities of ,basel1 ,strasburg1 ,speyer1 ,worms1 ,mayence1 ,coblenz1 ,cologne1 and ,dsseldorf1 and between them are dotted a series of cities and towns less important only in size1 certainly not in the magnitude of their interest for the traveller or student1 nor in their storied past4 ,of the more romantic1 though perhaps not more picturesque1 elements of vine-clad slopes--where is produced the celebrated ,rheinwein--the rapid flow of ,rhine water1 and the fabled dwelling-places of sprites and ,rhinemaidens1 there is quite enough for many an entertaining volume not yet written4 ,after traversing several of the cantons1 the ,rhine leaves ,switzerland at ,basel1 on its course1 through ,germany and ,holland1 to the sea4 ,its chief tributaries are the ,neckar1 ,murg1 ,kinzig1 ,aar1 ,main1 ,nahe1 ,lahn1 ,moselle1 ,erft1 ,ruhr1 and ,lippe4 ,its waters furnish capital salmon1 which1 curiously enough1 when taken on their passage up the stream1 are called lachse2 but1 when caught in autumn on their way down to the sea1 are known as salmon4 ,it affords also sturgeon1 pike1 carp1 and lampreys4 ,its enormous rafts of timber have often been described1 and should be seen to be appreciated4 ,they often carried half a village of people1 and were of great value4 ,to-day these great rafts1 however1 are seldom seen4 ,in summer1 when the tourist visits the river1 its course is comparatively calm and orderly2 it is only in spring1 when the snows melt rapidly in ,switzerland1 that ,father ,rhine is to be beheld in all his might2 for then the waters often rise a dozen feet above their common level4 ,its depth from ,basel to ,strasburg averages ten to twelve feet2 at ,mayence1 twenty-four feet2 at ,dsseldorf1 fifty feet4 ,to ,basel1 through the ,lake of ,constance from ,grisons1 the ,rhine forms a boundary between ,switzerland and the ,german ,states4 ,from ,basel to ,mayence it winds its way through the ancient bed of the glaciers2 and from ,mayence to ,bingen it flows through rocky walls to ,bonn1 where it enters the great alluvial plain through which it makes its way to the ocean4 ,the valley of the ,rhine has been called the artery which gives life to all ,prussia4 ,the reason is obvious to any who have the slightest acquaintance with the region4 ,the commerce of the ,rhine is ceaseless2 day and night1 up and down stream1 the procession of steamboats1 canal-boats1 floats1 and barges is almost constant4 ,from the dawn of history both banks of the ,lower ,rhine had belonged to ,germany1 and they are still inhabited by ,germans4 ,ten centuries or more have elapsed since the boundaries of the eastern and western kingdom of the ,franks were fixed at ,verdun1 and1 though the ,french frontier had frequently advanced toward ,germany1 and at certain points had actually reached the ,rhine1 no claim was advanced to that portion which was yet ,german until the cry of ,to the ,rhine resounded through the ,french provinces in #ahgj-ga4 ,of course the obvious argument of the ,french was1 and is1 an apparently justifiable pretension to extend ,france to its natural frontier1 but this is ill-founded on precedent1 and monstrous as well4 ,against it we have in history that a river-bed is not a natural delimitation of territorial domination4 ,the ,cisalpine ,gauls extended their powers across the river ,po1 and the ,united ,states of ,america first claimed ,oregon by virtue of the interpretation that a boundary at a river should give control of both banks1 though how far beyond the other bank they might claim is unestablished4 ,until the ,lake of ,constance is reached1 with its fine city of the same name at its westerly end1 there are no cities1 towns1 or villages in which one would expect to find ecclesiastical monuments of the first rank2 indeed1 one may say that there are none4 ,but the whole ,rhine watershed1 that great thoroughfare through which ,christianizing and civilizing influences made their way northward from ,italy1 is replete with memorials of one sort or another of those significant events of history which were made doubly impressive and far-reaching by reason of their religious aspect4 ,the three tiny sources of the ,rhine are born in the canton of ,grisons1 and are known as the ,vorder-,rhein1 the ,mittel-,rhein1 and the ,hinter-,rhein4 ,at ,disentis was one of the most ancient ,benedictine monasteries of the ,german ,alps4 ,it was founded in #fad1 and stood high upon the hillside of ,mount ,vakaraka1 at the confluence of two of the branches of the ,rhine4 ,its abbots had great political influence and were princes of the ,empire4 ,they were the founders of the ,gray ,brotherhood1 and were the first magistrates of the region4 ,the abbey of ,disentis was1 in #agii1 captured and set on fire by the ,french1 but later on it was restablished1 only to suffer again from fire in #ahdf1 though it was again rebuilt in more modest style4 ,st4 ,trons was the former seat of the ,parliament of ,grisons4 ,its chief ecclesiastical monument is a memorial chapel dedicated to ,st4 ,anne4 ,on its porch one may read the following inscription3 ,in libertatem vocati estis ,ubi spiritus domini1 ibi libertas ,in te speraverunt patres ,speraverunt et liberasti oes4 ,coire was the ancient ,curia ,rhtiorum4 ,it is the capital of the ,canton of ,grisons1 and was the seat of a bishop as early as #efb4 ,the ,emperor ,constantine made the town his winter quarters in the fourth century4 ,the church of ,st4 ,martin1 to-day belonging to the ,reformed ,church1 is an unconvincing and in no way remarkable monument1 but in what is known as the ,episcopal ,court1 behind great walls1 tower-flanked and with heavily barred gateways1 one comes upon evidences of the ecclesiastical importance of the town in other days4 ,the walls of the ancient ecclesiastical city enclose a plat nearly triangular in form4 ,on one side are the canons' residences and other domestic establishments1 and on the other the cathedral and the bishop's palace4 ,in the episcopal palace are a number of fine portraits1 which are more a record of manners and customs in dress than they are of churchly history4 ,the small cathedral and all the other edifices date from an eighth-century foundation1 and are in the manifest ,romanesque style of a very early period4 ,within the cathedral are a number of funeral monuments of not much artistic worth and a series of paintings by ,holbein and ,drer4 ,as an art centre ,coire would appear to rank higher than it does as a city of architectural treasures1 for it was also the birthplace of ,angelica ,kauffmann1 who was born here in #agda4 ,ragatz is more famous as a watering-place--for the baths of ,pfeffers are truly celebrated--than as a treasure-house of religious art1 though in former days the abbey of ,pfeffers was of great renown4 ,its foundation dates from #gbj1 but the building as it exists to-day was only erected in #affe4 ,the church1 in part of marble1 contains some good pictures4 ,the abbey was formerly very wealthy1 and its abbot bore the title of prince4 ,the convent is to-day occupied by the ,benedictines1 to whom also the baths belong4 ,from this point on1 as one draws near the ,lake of ,constance1 the ,alpine character of the topography somewhat changes4 ,the ,lake of ,constance was known to the ,romans as ,brigantinus ,lacus or the ,lacus ,rheni4 ,it has not so imposing a setting as many of the ,swiss or ,italian lakes1 but its eighteen hundred square kilometres give the city of ,constance itself an environment that most inland towns of ,europe lack4 ,the ,lake of ,constance1 like all of the ,alpine lakes1 is subject at times to violent tempests4 ,it is very plentifully supplied with fish1 and is famous for its pike1 trout1 and1 above all1 its fresh herring4 ,from ,basel the ,rhine flows westward under the last heights of the ,jura1 and turns then to the north beneath the shelter of the ,vosges1 and1 as it flows by ,strasburg1 first begins to take on that majesty which one usually associates with a great river4 ,at the confluence of the ,main1 after passing ,speyer1 ,worms1 and ,mannheim1 the ,rhine first acquires that commercialism which has made it so important to the latter-day development of ,prussia4 ,at the juncture of the ,main and ,rhine is ,mayence1 one of the strongest military positions in ,europe to-day4 ,here the ,rhine hurls itself against the slopes of the ,taunus and turns abruptly again to the west1 aggrandizing itself at the same time1 to a width of from five hundred to seven hundred metres4 ,shortly after it has passed the last foot-hills of the ,taunus1 it enters that narrow gorge which1 for a matter of #aej kilometres1 has catalogued its name and fame so brilliantly among the stock sights of the globe-trotter4 ,no consideration of the economic part played by the ,rhine should overlook the two international canals which connect that river with ,france through the ,rhne and the ,marne4 ,the first enters the ,rhine at ,strasburg1 a small feeder running to ,basel1 and the latter1 starting at ,vitry-le-,franois1 joins the ,marne with the ,rhine at the same place1 ,strasburg4 ,on the frontier of the former dpartement of the ,haut-,rhin1 one may view an immense horizon from the south to the north4 ,from one particular spot1 where the heights of the ,vosges begin to level1 it is said that one may see the towers of ,strasburg1 of ,speyer1 of ,worms1 and of ,heidelberg4 ,if so1 it is a wonderful panorama1 and it must have been on a similar site that the ,chteau of ,trifels 7three rocks7 was situated1 in which ,richard ,coeur de ,lion was imprisoned when delivered up to ,henry ,,vi4 by ,leopold of ,austria4 ,to distract himself he sang the songs taught him by his troubadour1 to the accompaniment of the harp1 says both history and legend1 until one day the faithful ,blondel1 who was pursuing his way up and down the length of ,europe in search of his royal master1 appeared before his window4 ,some faithful knights1 entirely devoted to their prince1 had followed in the wake of the troubadour1 and were able to rescue ,richard by the aid of a young girl1 ,mathilde by name1 who had recognized the songs sung by ,blondel as being the same as those of the royal prisoner in the tower of the chteau4 ,when the troubadour was led to the door of the prince's cell1 he heard a voice call to him3 ,est-ce toi1 mon cher ,blondel8 ,oui1 c'est moi1 mon seigneur1 replied the singer4 ,comptez sur mon zle et sur celui de quelques amis fidles--nous vous deliverons4 ,illustration3 ,,general ,,view of ,d,,sseldorf ,the next day the escape was made through an overpowering of the guard2 and ,richard1 in the midst of his faithful chevaliers1 ultimately arrived in ,england4 ,blondel had meanwhile led the willing ,mathilde to the altar1 and received a rich recompense from the king4 ,as the ,rhine enters the plain at ,cologne1 it comes into its fourth and last phase4 ,flowing past ,dsseldorf and ,wesel1 it quits ,german soil just beyond ,emmerich1 and enters the ,low ,countries in two branches4 ,the ,waal continues its course toward the west by ,nymegen1 and through its vast estuary1 by ,dordrecht1 to the sea4 ,the ,rhine proper takes a more northerly course1 and1 as the ,neder ,rijn1 passes ,arnheim and ,utrecht1 and thence1 taking the name of ,oud ,rijn1 fills the canals of ,leyden and goes onward to the ,german ,ocean4 ,twelve kilometres from ,leyden is ,katwyck aan ,zee1 where1 between colossal dikes1 the ,rhine at last finds its way to the open sea4 ,more humble yet at its tomb than in the cradle of its birth1 it enters the tempestuous waters of the ,german ,ocean through an uncompromising and unbeautiful sluice built by the government of ,louis ,bonaparte4 ,for more than eleven hundred kilometres it flows between banks redolent of history and legend to so great an extent that it is but natural that the art and architecture of its environment should have been some unique type which1 lending its influence to the border countries1 left its impress throughout an area which can hardly be restricted by the river's banks themselves4 ,we know how1 in ,germany1 it gave birth to a variety of ecclesiastical architecture which is recognized by the world as a distinct ,rhenish type4 ,in ,holland the architectural forms partook of a much more simple or primitive character2 but they1 too1 are distinctly ,rhenish2 at least1 they have not the refulgence of the full-blown ,gothic of ,france4 ,taine1 in his ,art in the ,netherlands1 goes into the character of the land1 and the struggle demanded of the people to reclaim it from the sea1 and the energy1 the vigilance required to secure it from its onslaughts so that they1 for themselves and their families1 might possess a safe and quiet hearthstone4 ,he draws a picture of the homes thus safeguarded1 and of how this sense of immunity fostered finally a life of material comfort and enjoyment4 ,all this had an effect upon local architectural types1 and the great part played by the valley of the ,rhine in the development of manners and customs is not excelled by any other topographical feature in ,europe1 if it is even equalled4 ,coupled to the wonders of art are the wonders of nature1 and the ,rhine is bountifully blessed with the latter as well4 ,the conventional ,rhine tour of our forefathers is taken1 even to-day1 by countless thousands to whom its beauties1 its legends1 and its history appeal4 ,but whether one goes to study churches1 for a mere holiday1 or as a pleasant way of crossing ,europe1 he will be struck by the astonishing similarity of tone in the whole colour-scheme of the ,rhine4 ,the key-note is the same whether he follows it up from its juncture with salt water at ,katwyck or through the gateway of the lazy ,scheldt1 via ,antwerp1 or through ,aix-la-,chapelle and ,cologne4 ,sooner or later the true ,rhineland is reached1 and the pilgrim1 on his way1 whether his shrines be religious ones or worldly1 will drink his fill of sensations which are as new and different from those which will be met with in ,france1 ,italy1 and ,spain as it is possible to conceive4 ,from the days of ,charlemagne1 and even before1 down through the fervent period of the ,crusades1 to the romantic middle ages1 the ,rhine rings its true note in the gamut1 and rings it loudly4 ,it has played a great part in history1 and to its geographical and political importance is added the always potent charm of natural beauty4 ,the church-builder and his followers1 too1 were important factors in it all1 for one of the glories of all modern ,european nations will ever be their churches and the memories of their churchmen of the past4 ,,iii ,,the ,,church ,,in ,,germany ,there have been those who have claimed that the two great blessings bestowed upon the world by ,germany are the invention of printing by ,gutenberg1 which emanated from ,mayence in #adcf1 and the ,reformation started by ,luther at ,wittenberg in #aeag4 ,the statement may be open to criticism1 but it is hazarded nevertheless4 ,as to how really religious the ,germans have always been1 one has but to recall ,schiller's ,song of the ,bell4 ,certainly a people who lay such stress upon opening the common every-day life with prayer must always have been devoted to religion4 ,the question of the religious tenets of ,germany is studiously avoided in this book1 as far as making comparisons between the ,catholic and ,protestant religions is concerned4 ,at the finish of the ,thirty ,years' ,war1 ,north ,germany had become almost entirely ,protestant1 and many of the former bishops' churches had become by force of circumstances colder and less attractive than formerly1 even though many of the ,lutheran churches to-day keep up some semblance of high ceremony and altar decorations4 ,it is curious1 however1 that many of these churches are quite closed to the public on any day but ,sunday or some of the great holidays4 ,in the ,rhine provinces the ,catholic faith has most strongly endured4 ,in the ,german ,catholic cathedrals the morning service from half-past nine to ten is usually a service of much impressiveness1 and at ,cologne1 beloved of all stranger tourists1 nones1 vespers1 and compline are sung daily with much devotion4 ,the ecclesiastical foundation in ,germany is properly attributable to monkish influences4 ,between the ,rhine and the ,baltic there were no cities before the time of ,charlemagne1 although the settlements established there by the ,church for the conversion of the natives were the origin of the communities from which sprang the great cities of later years4 ,the monkish orders were ever a powerful body of church-builders1 and north of the ,alps in the eleventh and twelfth centuries1 even though they were the guardians of literature as well as of the arts1 the monks were possessed of an energy which took its most active form in church-building4 ,whatever may have been the origin of the later ,romanesque church-building1 whether it was indigenous to ,lombard ,italy or not1 it was much the same in ,spain1 ,france1 ,england1 and ,germany1 though it took its most hardy form in ,germany1 perhaps with the cathedral of ,speyer 7#aafe-ij71 which is one of the latest ,romanesque structures1 contemporary with the early ,gothic of ,france4 ,in ,italy1 and elsewhere along the ,mediterranean1 the pure ,romanesque was somewhat diluted by the ,byzantine influence2 but northward1 along the course of the ,rhine1 the ,romanesque influence had come to its own in a purer form than it had in ,italy itself4 ,here it may be well to mention one pertinent fact of ,german history1 in an attempt to show how1 at one time at least1 ,church and state in ,germany were more firmly bound together than at present4 ,the ,germanic ,empire1 founded by ,charlemagne in the year #hjj1 was dissolved under ,francis ,,ii41 who1 in #ahjf1 exchanged the title of ,emperor of ,germany for that of ,emperor of ,austria1 confining himself to his hereditary dominions4 ,in the olden times the ,germanic ,empire was in reality a league of barons1 counts1 and dukes1 who1 through seven of their number1 elected the emperor4 ,these electors were the ,archbishops of ,mayence 7who was also ,primate and ,archchancellor of the ,empire71 ,trves1 and ,cologne2 the ,palatine of the ,rhine1 ,arch-,steward of the ,empire2 the ,margrave of ,brandenburg1 ,arch-,chamberlain2 the ,duke of ,saxony1 ,arch-,marshal2 and the ,king of ,bohemia1 ,arch-,cupbearer4 ,in no part of the ,christian world did the clergy possess greater endowments of power and wealth than did those of the ,rhine valley4 ,the ,archbishop of ,cologne was the ,archchancellor of the ,empire1 the second in rank of the electoral princes1 and ruler of an immense territory extending from ,cologne to ,aix-la-,chapelle2 while the ,archbishops of ,mayence and ,trves played the rle of patriarchs1 and were frequently more powerful even than the ,popes4 ,all the bishops1 indeed1 were invested with rights both spiritual and temporal1 those of the churchman and those of the grand seigneur1 which they exercised to the utmost throughout their dioceses4 ,st4 ,boniface was sent on his mission to ,germany in #gae1 having credentials and instructions from ,pope ,gregory ,,ii4 ,he was accompanied by a large following of monks versed in the art of building1 and of lay brethren who were also architects4 ,this we learn from the letters of ,pope ,gregory and the ,life of ,st4 ,boniface1 so the fact is established that church-building in ,germany1 if not actually begun by ,st4 ,boniface1 was at least healthily and enthusiastically stimulated by him4 ,among the bishoprics founded by ,boniface were those of ,cologne1 ,worms1 and ,speyer1 and it may be remarked that all of these cities have ample evidences of the round-arched style which came prior to the ,gothic1 which followed later4 ,if anything at all is proved with regard to the distinct type known as ,rhenish architecture1 it is that the ,lombard builders preceded by a long time the ,gothic builders4 ,charlemagne's first efforts after subduing the heathen ,saxons was to encourage their conversion to ,christianity4 ,for this purpose he created many bishoprics1 one being at ,paderborn1 in #gie1 a favourite place of residence with the emperor4 ,great dignity was enjoyed by the ,bishop of ,paderborn1 certain rights of his extending so far as the ,councils of ,utrecht1 ,lige1 and ,mnster4 ,the abbess of the monastery at ,essen1 near ,dsseldorf1 was under his rule2 and the ,counts of ,oldenberg and the ,dukes of ,clves owed to him a certain allegiance2 while certain rights were granted him by the cities of ,cologne1 ,verdun1 ,aix-la-,chapelle1 and others4 ,these dignities endured1 in part1 until the aftermath of the ,french ,revolution1 which was the real cause of the disrupture of many ,charlemagnian traditions4 ,after the ,peace of ,lunville1 in #ahja1 the electorates of ,cologne1 ,trves1 and ,mayence were suppressed1 together with the principalities of ,mnster1 ,hildesheim1 ,paderborn1 and ,osnabrck1 while such abbeys and monasteries as had come through the ,reformation were dissolved4 ,besides ,charlemagne's bishoprics1 others founded by ,otho the ,great were suppressed4 ,upon the restoration of the ,rhenish provinces to ,germany in #ahad1 the ,catholic hierarchy was restablished and a rearrangement of dioceses took place4 ,a treaty with the ,prussian state gave ,cologne again an archbishopric1 with suffragans at ,trves1 ,mnster1 and ,paderborn1 and ,count ,charles ,spiegel zum ,desenburg was made archbishop4 ,other provinces aspired to similar concessions1 and certain of the suppressed sees were rerected4 ,the ,lutherized districts1 north and eastward of the ,rhine1 were very extensive1 but the influence which went forth again from ,cologne served to counteract this to a great extent4 ,the ,catholic hierarchy in ,germany is made up as follows3 ---------------------------------------- -------------- ,,archbishoprics ,,suffragans ,posen and ,gnesen ,kulm and ,ermeland ,breslau ,olmtz ,prague ,cologne ,hildesheim1 ,osnabrck1 ,mnster1 ,paderborn1 ,fulda1 ,limburg1 ,trves1 ,mayence4 ,freiburg in ,breisgau ,wrtemberg1 ,augsburg1 ,munich and ,freising ,passau and ,ratisbon4 ,bamberg ,wrzburg1 ,eichstadt1 and ,speyer1 and the ,vicariat of ,dresden4 ,strasburg and ,metz ---------------------------------------- -------------- ,the religious population of ,germany to-day is divided approximately thus3 ,protestants1 #fc per cent2 ,catholics1 #cf per cent2 ,jews1 #a per cent4 ,the reign of the pure ,gothic spirit in church-building1 as far as it ever advanced in ,germany1 was at an end with the wars of the ,hussites and the ,reformation of ,luther4 ,during these religious and political convulsions1 the ,gothic spirit may be said to have died1 so far as the undertaking of any new or great work goes4 ,just as we find in ,germany a different speech and a different manner of living from that of either ,rome or ,gaul1 we find also in ,germany1 or rather in the ,rhenish provinces1 a marked difference in ecclesiastical art from either of the types which were developing contemporaneously in the neighbouring countries4 ,the ,rhine proved itself a veritable borderland1 which neither kept to the strict classicism of the ,romanesque manner of building1 nor yet adopted1 without question1 the newly arisen ,gothic of the twelfth and thirteenth centuries4 ,architecture and sculpture in its earliest and most approved ecclesiastical forms undoubtedly made its way from ,italy to ,france1 ,spain1 ,germany1 and ,england1 along the natural travel routes over which came the ,roman invaders1 conquerors1 or civilizers--or whatever we please to think them4 ,under each and every environment it developed1 as it were1 a new style1 the flat roofs and low arches giving way for the most part to more lofty and steeper-angled gables and openings4 ,this may have been caused by climatic influences1 or it may not2 at any rate1 church-building--and other building as well--changed as it went northward1 and sharp gables and steep sloping lines became not only frequent1 but almost universal4 ,the ,comacine ,masters1 who were the great church-builders of the early days in ,italy1 went north in the seventh century1 still pursuing their mission2 to ,england with ,st4 ,augustine1 to ,germany with ,boniface1 and ,charlemagne himself1 as we know1 brought them to ,aix-la-,chapelle for the work at his church there4 ,the distinctly ,rhenish variety of ,romanesque ecclesiastical architecture came to its greatest development under the ,suabian or ,hohenstaufen line of emperors1 reaching its zenith during the reign of the great ,frederick ,barbarossa 7#aaeb-ij74 ,the churches at ,neuss1 ,bonn1 ,sinzig1 and ,coblenz all underwent a necessary reconstruction in the early thirteenth century because of ravages during the terrific warfare of the rival claimants to the throne of ,barbarossa4 ,frederick1 one claimant1 was under the guardianship of ,pope ,innocent ,,iii41 and ,philip1 his brother1 was as devotedly cared for by the rival ,pope1 ,gregory ,,viii4 ,finally ,innocent compromised the matter by securing the election of ,otho ,,iv41 of ,brunswick4 ,with that hotbed of heresies1 ,holland1 this book has little to do1 dealing only with three centres of religious movement there4 ,holland was the storm-centre for a great struggle for religious and political freedom1 and for this very reason there grew up here no great ,gothic fabrics of a rank to rival those of ,france1 ,england1 and ,germany4 ,still1 there was a distinct and most picturesque element which entered into the church-building of ,holland in the middle ages1 as one notes in the remarkable church of ,deventer4 ,in the main1 however1 if we except the ,groote ,kerk at ,rotterdam1 ,st4 ,janskerk at ,gouda1 the archbishop's church at ,utrecht1 and the splendid edifice at ,dordrecht1 there is nothing in ,holland architecturally great4 ,,iv ,,some ,,characteristics ,,of ,,rhenish ,,architecture ,it cannot be claimed that the church-building of one nation was any more thorough or any more devoted than that of any other4 ,all the great church-building powers of the middle ages were1 it is to be presumed1 possessed of the single idea of glorifying ,god by the building of houses in his name4 ,to the rising generation1 said the editor of the ,architectural ,magazine in #ahch1 and to it alone do we look forward for the real improvement in architecture as an art of design and taste4 ,the poetry of architecture was an early and famous theme of ,ruskin's1 and doubtless he was sincere when he wrote the papers that are included under that general title2 but the time was not then ripe for an architectural revolution1 and the people could not1 or would not1 revert to the ,gothic or even the pure ,renaissance--if there ever was such a thing4 ,we had1 as a result1 what is sometimes known as early ,victorian1 and the plush and horsehair effects of contemporary times4 ,in general1 the churches of ,germany1 or at least of the ,rhine provinces1 are of a species as distinct from the pure ,gothic1 ,romanesque1 or ,renaissance as they well can be4 ,except for the fact that of recent years the art nouveau has invaded ,germany1 there is little mediocrity of plan or execution in the ecclesiastical architecture of that country1 although of late years all classes of architectural forms have taken on1 in most lands1 the most uncouth shapes1--church edifices in particular1--they becoming1 indeed1 anything but churchly4 ,the ,renaissance1 which spread from ,italy just after the period when the ,gothic had flowered its last1 came to the north through ,germany rather than through ,france1 and so it was but natural that the ,romanesque manner of building1 which had come long before1 had a much firmer footing1 and for a much longer period1 in ,germany1 than it had in ,france4 ,gothic came1 in rudimentary forms at any rate1 as early here as it did to ,france or ,england2 but1 with true ,german tenacity of purpose1 her builders clung to the round-arched style of openings long after the employment of it had ceased to be the fashion elsewhere4 ,this1 then1 is the first distinctive feature of the ecclesiastical edifices erected in ,germany in the twelfth and thirteenth centuries when the new ,gothic forms were elsewhere budding into their utmost beauty4 ,one strong constructive note ever rings out1 and that is that1 while the ,gothic was ringing its purest sound in ,france and even in ,england1 at least three forces were playing their gamut in ,germany1 producing a species quite by itself which was certainly not ,gothic any more than it was ,moorish1 and not ,romanesque any more than was the ,angevin variety of round-arched forms1 which is so much admired in ,france4 ,one notably pure ,gothic example1 although of the earliest ,gothic1 is found in ,notre ,dame at ,trves1 with perhaps another in the abbey of ,altenburg near ,cologne2 but these are the chief ones that in any way resemble the consistent ,french pointed architecture which we best know as ,gothic4 ,the ,rhenish variety of ,romanesque lived here on the ,rhine to a far later period1 notably at ,bonn and ,coblenz1 than it did in either ,france or ,england4 ,german church architecture1 in general1 is full of local mannerisms1 but the one most consistently marked is the tacit avoidance of the true ogival style1 until we come to the great cathedral at ,cologne1 which1 in truth1 so far as its finished form goes1 is quite a modern affair4 ,in journeying through ,northeastern ,france1 or through ,holland or ,belgium1 one comes gradually upon this distinct feature of the ,rhenish type of church in a manner which shows a spread of its influence4 ,all the ,low ,country churches are more or less ,german in their motive2 so1 too1 are many of those of ,belgium1 particularly the cathedral at ,tournai and the two fine churches at ,lige 7,ste4 ,croix and the cathedral71 which are frankly ,teutonic2 while at ,maastricht in ,holland is almost a replica of a ,rhenish-,romanesque basilica4 ,at ,aix-la-,chapelle is the famous ,round ,church of ,charlemagne1 which is something neither ,french nor ,german4 ,it has received some later century additions1 but the octagon is still there1 and it stands almost alone north of ,italy1 where its predecessor is found at ,ravenna1 the ,templars' ,church in ,london being of quite a different order4 ,long years ago this ,ravenna prototype1 or perhaps it was this eighth-century church of ,charlemagne's1 gave rise to numerous circular and octagonal edifices erected throughout ,germany2 but all have now disappeared with the exception1 it is claimed1 of one at ,ottmarsheim1 a fragment at ,essen1 and the rebuilt ,st4 ,gron's at ,cologne4 ,these round churches--,st4 ,gron's at ,cologne1 the ,mathias ,kapelle at ,kobern1 and1 above all1 ,charlemagne's ,mnster at ,aix-la-,chapelle1 and others elsewhere1 notably in ,italy--are doubtless a survival of a pagan influence2 certainly the style of building was a favourite with the ,romans1 and was common even among the ,greeks1 where the little circular pagan temples were always a most fascinating part of the general ensemble4 ,it would hardly be appropriate in a book such as this to attempt to trace the origin of ,gothic1 as we have come to know that twelfth and thirteenth century variety of pointed architecture1 which1 if anything1 is ,french pointed4 ,it has been plausibly claimed that1 after its introduction into ,france and ,england1 it developed into the full-blown style of the fourteenth century1 which so soon fell before the ,renaissance in the century following4 ,in ,germany the process1 with differences with regard to its chronology1 was much the same4 ,it has been the fashion among writers of all weights of opinion to break into an apparently irresistible enthusiasm with regard to ,gothic architecture in general1 and this1 so far as it goes1 is excusable4 ,most of us will agree that the folk of the middle ages had fallen in love with church-building1 and loved that their goldsmith's work1 and ivories1 their seals1 and even the pierced patterns of their shoes should be like little buildings1 little tabernacles1 little ',paul's windows4' ,some of their tombs and shrines must have been conceived as little fairy buildings2 and doubtless they would have liked little angels to hop about them all alive and blow fairy trumpets4 ,in the building of the great cathedrals it must certainly be allowed that there is an element that we do not understand4 ,those who fashioned them worked wonder into them2 they had the ability which children have to call up enchantment4 ,in these high vaults1 and glistening windows1 and peering figures1 there was magic even to their makers4 ,gothic art must ever1 in a certain degree1 be a mystery to us1 because we cannot entirely put ourselves in the place of the men of those times4 ,we cannot by taking thought be ,egyptian or ,japanese1 nor can we again be ,romanesque or ,gothic1 nor indeed can we explain entirely the motif of ,burmese architecture1 which1 appearing as a blend of ,chinese and ,indian1 stands out as the exotic of the ,eastern1 as does the ,gothic of the ,western1 world4 ,only in these latter two species of architectural art does stone-carving stand out with that supreme excellence which does not admit of rivalry1 though one be pagan and the other ,christian4 ,germany1 above all other nations of the middle ages in ,europe1 excelled in the craftsmanship which fashioned warm1 live emotions out of cold gray stone1 and to-day such examples of this as the overpowering and splendid cathedrals at ,cologne1 ,ratisbon1 ,strasburg1 and ,mnster rank among the greatest and most famous in all the world1 in spite of the fact that their constructive elements were reminiscent of other lands4 ,the distinction between ,french and ,german building cannot better be described than by quoting the following1 the first by ,james ,russell ,lowell on ,notre ,dame de ,chartres1 and the second by ,longfellow on the cathedral at ,strasburg3 ,,chartres ,graceful1 grotesque1 with every new surprise of hazardous caprices sure to please1 heavy as nightmare1 airy1 light as fun1 imagination's very self in stone4 ,,strasburg 444,a great master of his craft1 ,ervin von ,steinbach2 but not he alone1 ,for many generations laboured with him1 ,children that came to see these saints in stone1 ,as day by day out of the blocks they rose1 ,grew old and died1 and still the work went on1 ,and on and on and is not yet completed4 ,the first is typical of the ingenuity and genius of the ,french1 the second of the painstaking labour of the ,teuton2 what more were needed to define the two8 ,in ,germany and throughout all the territory under the spell of ,germanic influence the growth of ,gothic was not so readily accomplished as in ,france1 says ,gonse4 ,at best such ,gothic as is to be seen at ,bacharach1 ,bonn1 ,worms1 etc41 is but a variety1 so far as the vaulting goes1 of superimposed details on a more or less truthful ,romanesque framework4 ,at ,mayence1 ,roermond1 and ,sinzig1 too1 it is the domical vault which still qualifies the other ,gothic essentials1 and so depreciates the value of the ,gothic of the ,rhine valley when compared with that of the ,royal ,domain of ,france4 ,the range of medival art and architecture has been said to run between the fourth century and the fourteenth1 or from the peace of the ,church to the coming of the ,renaissance4 ,this is perhaps definite enough1 but the scope is too wide to limit any special form of art expression1 so that one may judge it comparatively with that which had gone before or was to come after4 ,mostly1 medival art groups itself around the two distinct styles of ,byzantine and ,gothic1 and they are best divided1 one from the other1 by the two centuries lying between the tenth and the twelfth4 ,in truth1 the architecture of ,germany1 up to the end of the tenth century1 was as much ,byzantine as it was ,romanesque1 and the princes and prelates alike drew the inspiration for their works from imported ,italians and ,greeks1 a procedure which gave the unusual blend that developed the distinct ,rhenish architecture4 ,the ,popes themselves gave a very material aid when they sent or allowed colonies of southern craftsmen to undertake the work on these great religious edifices of the ,rhine valley4 ,the grander plan of the cathedrals at ,speyer1 ,worms1 ,mayence1 ,basel1 and even ,trves are all due somewhat to this influence1 and for that reason they retain even to-day evidences of these foreign and even ,eastern methods1 though for the most part it is in the crypt and subterranean foundations only that this is found4 ,carlovingian architecture was perhaps more indigenous to ,germany than to any other part of the vast ,empire4 ,this extraordinary man1 as the historians speak of ,charlemagne1 did much toward developing the arts4 ,in the southeast1 the ,grecian ,empire was already become decrepit in its influences1 and a new building spirit was bound to have sprung up elsewhere4 ,if ,charlemagne1 says ,gibbon1 had fixed the seat of his empire in ,italy1 his genius would have aspired to restore1 rather than violate the works of the ,csars4 ,he confined his predilections to the virgin forests of ,germany1 however1 and he despoiled ,lombardy to enrich his northern possessions2 as witness the columns which he brought from ,ravenna and ,rome wherewith to decorate his palace and church at ,aix-la-,chapelle4 ,no country has preserved finer or more numerous examples of ,romanesque architecture than ,germany4 ,the ,rhine was so powerfully under ,roman sway that it adopted as a matter of course and without question quite all of the tenets and principles of the ,romanesque2 not only with respect to ecclesiastical structures1 but as regards civil and military works as well4 ,on the ,rhine1 as in ,lorraine1 ,lyonnaise1 and ,central ,france1 the ,romanesque endured with little deviation from ,latin traditions till quite the end of the thirteenth century4 ,later1 in the ,gothic period1 ,germany returned the compliment and sent ,zamodia of ,freiburg and ,ulric of ,ulm to lend their aid in the construction of the grand fabric at ,milan2 and ,john and ,simon of ,cologne to ,spain to erect that astonishingly bizarre cathedral at ,burgos4 ,beginning with the revival of the arts in ,italy1 the ,renaissance ,german architects1 in other countries than ,germany1 were apparently few in number and not of their former rank4 ,not alone did ,italy aid ,germany in the erection of ecclesiastical monuments1 but ,france as well1 with the ,norman variation of the ,romanesque and the later developed ,gothic1 sent many monkish craftsmen to lend their aid and skill4 ,their work1 however1 was rather the putting on of finishing touches than of planning the general outlines4 ,german architecture on the ,rhine then was but a development and variation of alien importations1 which came in time1 to be sure1 to be recognized as a special type1 but which in reality resembled the ,lombardic and the ,romanesque in its round-arched forms1 and the ,gothic of ,france in its ogival details4 ,german architecture in time1 though not so much with respect to churches1 even went so far as to imitate the rococo and bizarre ornamentation fathered and named by the ,louis of ,france4 ,germany was a stranger to the complete development of ,gothic architecture long after it had reached its maturity elsewhere2 so1 too1 it was quite well into the fifteenth century before the slightest change was made toward the interpolation of ,renaissance details1 and even then it was ,renaissance art1 more than it was ,renaissance architecture1 which was making itself felt4 ,the ,renaissance came to ,germany through the natural gateway of the north of ,italy2 although it spread perhaps to some extent from ,france into the ,rhine district4 ,in truth1 ,german ,renaissance has ever been heavy and ugly1 though undeniably imposing4 ,in both the ecclesiastical and the secular varieties it lacked the lightness and grace which in ,france1 so far as domestic architecture went1 soon developed into a thing of surprising beauty4 ,what the ,renaissance really accomplished in ,germany toward developing a new or national style is in grave doubt1 beyond having left a legacy of bizarre groupings and grotesque and superabundant ornament4 ,in ,france the case was different1 and1 while in ecclesiastical edifices the result was poor and banal enough1 there grew up the great and glorious style of the ,french ,renaissance1 which1 for civic and private buildings of magnitude1 has never been excelled by the modern architecture of any land4 ,in ,germany proper1 as well as in ,switzerland1 one finds house-fronts and walls covered with paintings1 which is certainly one phase of ,renaissance art4 ,but the brush alone could not popularize the new style1 and in religious edifices1 at least1 the ,renaissance1 as contrasted with the earlier ,romanesque1 never attained that popularity along the ,rhine that it did in ,france or ,england1 or even in ,belgium4 ,civic architecture took on the new style with a certain freedom1 but religious architecture almost not at all4 ,possibly the ,thirty ,years' ,war 7#afah-dh7 had somewhat to do with stunting its growth2 certainly no church-building was undertaken in those years1 and they were the very ones in which1 elsewhere1 the ,renaissance was making its greatest headway4 ,another very apparent reason is that1 as the major part of the population became ,protestant1 the need of a beautiful church edifice itself1 as a stimulus to the faith1 had grown less and less4 ,there was a steady growth1 perhaps one may as well say a great development1 in civil architecture throughout ,germany at this time1 but1 to all intents and purposes1 from the early seventeenth century onward1 the founding and erecting of great churches was at an end4 ,if one would study the ,renaissance in ,germany he must observe the town halls of such cities as ,cologne1 ,paderborn1 or ,nuremberg1 or the great chteaux or castles1 such as are best represented by ruined ,heidelberg4 ,of religious architecture ,renaissance examples are practically lacking2 the most convincing details along the ,rhine being seen in the western tower of the cathedral at ,mayence4 ,at ,hildesheim1 at ,nuremberg1 and at ,prague there are something more than mere evidences of the style1 and throughout ,germany1 as elsewhere1 there are many sixteenth and seventeenth century accessories1 such as altars1 baldaquins1 tombs1 and even entire chapels1 which are nothing but ,renaissance in motive and execution4 ,but there are no great ,renaissance ground-plans1 faades1 or clochers1 which are in any way representative of the style which crept in to ring the death-knell of ,gothic in ,france and ,england4 ,perhaps it is for this reason alone that the great ,gothic cathedral at ,cologne was completed at a late day with no base ,renaissance interpolation in its fabric4 ,v ,,the ,,accessories ,,of ,,german ,,churches ,up to the tenth century the ,german basilicas were but copies of the ,roman variety4 ,even the great cathedral at ,trves1 with its ground-plan a great square of forty metres in extent1 was but a gross imitation of the ,romanesque form of the sixth century4 ,later1 in the eighth century1 came the modified ,byzantine form which one sees at ,aix-la-,chapelle4 ,with the eleventh century appeared the double-apsed basilicas1 but1 from this time on1 ,german ecclesiastical art divorced itself from ,latin traditions1 and from the simple parallelogram-like basilica developed the choir and transepts which were to remain for ever4 ,the crypt is a distinct and prominent feature of many ,german churches4 ,on the ,rhine curious and most interesting examples are very frequent1 those at ,bonn1 ,essen1 ,mnchen-,gladbach1 ,speyer1 ,cologne 7,st4 ,gron's71 ,boppart1 and ,neuss being the chief4 ,all of these are so constructed that the level of the pavement is broken between the nave and choir1 producing a singularly impressive interior effect4 ,speyer has the longest1 and perhaps the largest1 crypt in all ,germany4 ,where the edifice has remained an adherent of ,catholicism1 the crypt often performs the function of a place of worship independent of the main church1 it being fitted up with one or more altars and frequently other accessories4 ,as the crypt1 instead of being only an occasional attribute1 became general1 squared1 or even more rude1 capitals replaced the antique and classical forms which ,christian ,italy herself had adopted from pagan ,greece4 ,these squared or cubic capitals are particularly noticeable at ,neuss1 at ,mnchen-,gladbach1 in ,st4 ,james at ,cologne1 and in the old abbey of ,laach4 ,towers came to be added to the west fronts1 but the naves often remained roofed with visible woodwork1 though1 by the end of the century1 the stone-vaulted nave had appeared in the ,rhine district1 and the pillars of pagan birth had given way to the columns and colonnettes of ,latin growth4 ,what is known as the ,german manner of church-building had more than one distinguishing feature1 though none more prominent than that of the columns of the nave and aisles4 ,the naves were in general twice the width of their aisles1 and the bays of the nave were made twice the width of those of the aisles4 ,hence it followed that every pier or column carried a shaft to the groin of the aisle vault1 and every alternate one a shaft to the nave vault2 and so grew the most distinct of all ,german features of ,romanesque church-building1 alternate light and heavy piers in the nave4 ,it is on the ,rhine1 too1 that one comes upon occasional examples of rococo architectural decoration1 a species which sounds as though it might originally have been ,italian1 but which was originally ,french4 ,at its best it is seldom seen on the exterior1 but on inside walls and porticoes1 notably at ,bruchsal on the ,rhine1 one sees a frankly theatrical arrangement of ornate details4 ,by the twelfth century the particular variety of ,romanesque architecture which had developed1 and still endures1 in the ,rhine valley had arrived at its maturity4 ,the thirteenth century saw the interpolation and admixture of ,gothic1 which elsewhere1 in ,france in particular1 was making such great strides4 ,towers multiplied and became lighter and more graceful1 and great ,gothic arched windows gave place to round-headed ones1 though scarcely ever to the entire exclusion of the latter variety4 ,the species of cross-bred style which forms the link between the ,romanesque and ,gothic abounds along the ,rhine1 and examples are frequently encountered4 ,the semicircular apsides1 with a decorative band beneath the cornices of the exterior galleries1 are also a distinctly ,rhenish detail4 ,they are to be seen in ,st4 ,peter's at ,bacharach1 at ,st4 ,castor's at ,coblenz1 ,st4 ,martin's at ,cologne1 the cathedral at ,bonn1 in ,st4 ,quirinus at ,neuss1 and again at ,limburg4 ,the ,rhenish bell-towers are a variety distinct from the towers and spires usually met with1 and often terminate suddenly1 as if they were unfinished4 ,finally1 there are a number of churches in this region which offer the singular1 though not unique1 disposition of a chevet showing a triple apsis4 ,notable examples of this style are ,st4 ,maria in ,capitola1 ,st4 ,andrew and ,st4 ,martin at ,cologne1 and ,st4 ,quirinus at ,neuss4 ,the churches of the ,rhine valley are abundantly supplied with steeples1 often in groups far in excess of symmetry or sense1 as for instance the outr group at ,mayence1 which is really quite indescribable4 ,the ,apostles' ,church at ,cologne1 the cathedrals at ,mayence1 ,speyer1 and ,worms1 and the abbey church of ,laach all have wonderfully broken sky-lines2 while those with great central towers1 such as at ,neuss1 or the parish church of ,sinzig1 form another class2 and the slim-spired churches at ,andernach and ,coblenz yet another4 ,st4 ,martin's at ,cologne is another single-spired church1 but it rises from its three apses in quite a different manner from that of ,st4 ,quirinus at ,neuss1 and must be considered in a class by itself4 ,the minster at ,bonn1 though having three steeples1 is not overspired1 like that of ,mayence1--indeed1 it is perhaps one of the most picturesque1 if somewhat theatrical1 of all the spired churches of the ,rhine1 excepting always ,limburg4 ,the openwork spire of ,freiburg is unequalled in grace by even that of ,strasburg1 whatever may be the actual value of its constructive details4 ,illustration3 ,,worms ,,cathedral ,a marked type of ,german church architecture is that species of building known as the ,hallenkirche4 ,the variety is found elsewhere1 even in ,france1 but still it is distinctively ,german in its inception4 ,usually they are of the triple-naved variety1 i4 e41 a nave with its flanking aisles1 with the aisles nearly always of the same height as the principal nave4 ,there are two great churches of this order--though lacking aisles--in ,france1 the cathedrals at ,rodez and ,albi in the south4 ,mostly these great halled churches exist in ,westphalia1 where there is a fine example in the cathedral at ,paderborn1 and again there is ,st4 ,ludger at ,mnster1 and many others4 ,in one form or another the type is frequently met with throughout ,germany1 and is therefore to be considered as a distinct ,german architectural expression4 ,in summing up1 then1 one may well conclude that ,german church architecture1 in its general plan and outline1 is not of the amazing beauty of the ,french1 and is in a way lacking in mass effect4 ,with respect to details and accessories1 however1 the ,german churches are graced with much that one would gladly find everywhere as an expression of the artistic embellishment of a great religious edifice4 ,in spite of the austerity of many of these ,german churches in the fabric itself1 there is frequently an abounding wealth of accessory detail in fitments and furnishings4 ,in ,france the ,revolution made away with much decorative embellishment and furniture of all sorts4 ,the ,reformation in ,germany played no such part1 and so there is left much really artistic detail which contributes a luxuriance that is wanting in constructive details4 ,the universally elaborate carven pulpits and choir-stalls are wonders of their kind4 ,it is true they are usually of wood instead of stone1 but it must be remembered that the ,germans were ever great wood-workers4 ,the pulpits of ,freiburg and ,strasburg are thoroughly representative of the best work of this kind4 ,they may be said1 moreover1 to be of the ,gothic species only1 whereas similar works elsewhere are most frequently of the ,renaissance period4 ,in no other ,european country are the altars so rich in detail1 the sacristies so full to overflowing with jewelled and precious metal cups1 vases1 and chalices1 or the crucifixes1 triptychs1 and candlesticks so sumptuous4 ,in the cathedral at ,aix-la-,chapelle the congregation seats itself upon chairs2 but most frequently in ,germany one finds sturdy1 though movable1 oaken benches4 ,of the carved choir-stalls1 those at ,st4 ,gron's at ,cologne are the most nearly perfect of their kind on the ,rhine2 those at ,mayence1 while elaborately produced1 being of a classic order which is manifestly pagan and out of keeping in a ,christian church4 ,german churches in general made much of the cloister1 though not all of the examples that formerly existed have come down to us undisturbed or even in fragmentary condition4 ,but1 in spite of the ,protestant succession to many of the noble minsters1 many of these cloisters have endured in a fair state of preservation4 ,attached to the western end of ,st4 ,maria in ,capitola at ,cologne is an admirable example1 while the ,romanesque types at ,bonn1 at the abbey of ,laach1 and at ,essen are truly beautiful4 ,examples of the later pure ,gothic construction are those at ,aix-la-,chapelle and ,trves4 ,illustration3 ,chandelier1 ,aix-la-,chapelle ,but little exterior sculpture has been preserved in all its originality in the ,rhenish provinces1 revolutionary fury and its aftermath having accounted for its disappearance or mutilation4 ,in the ,cistercian church at the abbey of ,altenburg1 there is a plentiful display of foliaged ornament1 and there are the noble statues in the choir of the cathedral at ,cologne4 ,mayence has a series of monuments to the bishop-nobles attached to the piers of the nave1 and in the ,liebfrau ,kirche at ,trves and the cathedral at ,strasburg are seen the best and most numerous features of this nature4 ,one of the most unusual of medival church furnishings1 a sort of chandelier1 is seen both at ,aix-la-,chapelle and ,hildesheim4 ,in each instance it is a vast hoop-like pendant which bears the definition of coron lucis4 ,others are found elsewhere in ,germany1 but not of the great size of these two4 ,organ-cases here as elsewhere are mostly abominations4 ,the makers of sweet music evidently thought that any heavy baroque combination of wood-carving and leaden pipes was good enough so long as the flow of melody was uninterrupted4 ,the stained glass throughout the ,rhine valley is mostly good and unusually abundant1 and the freedom of this accessory from fanatical desecration is most apparent4 ,the same is true of such paintings as are found hung in the churches1 though seldom have they great names attached to them2 at least1 not so great as would mark them for distinction were they hung in any of the leading picture galleries of ,europe4 ,at ,essen the baptistery is separated from the main church1 like that at ,ravenna1 or at ,aix-en-,provence1 the two foremost examples of their kind4 ,a little to the westward of this minster1 and joined to it by a ,romanesque ligature1 is a three-bayed ,gothic church which occupies the site1 or was built up from a former chapel dedicated to ,st4 ,john the ,baptist4 ,illustration3 ,,font ,,limburg ,sooner or later the custom became prevalent of erecting a baptismal font within the precincts of the main church itself1 thus doing away with a structure especially devoted to the purpose4 ,this change came in the ninth century1 hence no separate baptisteries are found dating from a later epoch only1 except as an avowed copy of the earlier custom4 ,at this time1 too1 immersion had given way to sprinkling merely1 though in many cases the ,german name still applied is that of taufstein1 meaning dipping-stone4 ,late examples of fonts were frequently in metal1 the most remarkable in the ,rhine valley being in ,st4 ,reinhold's at ,dortmund1 in ,st4 ,maria in ,capitola1 and ,st4 ,peter's at ,cologne1 and in ,st4 ,mary's and ,st4 ,james's at ,mayence4 ,one of the most elaborate1 and certainly the most beautiful and remarkable of all1 is the stone font of the cathedral at ,limburg4 ,,vi ,,constance ,,and ,,schaffhausen ,constance ,there is a sentimental interest attached to ,constance and the lake which lies at its door1 which has come down to us through the pictures of the painters and the verses of the poets4 ,aside from this1 history has played its great part so vividly that one could not forget it if he would4 ,the city was founded about #big ,a4,d4 ,in after years it fell before the warlike ,huns1 and all but disappeared1 until it became the seat of a bishop in the sixth century1 the jurisdiction of the bishopric extending for a dozen leagues in all directions4 ,in the tenth century it became a ville impriale1 and by the fifteenth it had a population of more than forty thousand souls1 and the bishopric counted eight hundred thousand adherents4 ,to-day the city proper has decreased in numbers to a population which hovers closely about the five thousand mark4 ,illustration3 ,constance ,cathedral ,the emperors convoked many ,diets at ,constance1 and in #aahc the peace was signed here between the ,emperor ,barbarossa and the ,lombard towns4 ,the cathedral1 or mnster1 of ,constance is dedicated to ,our ,lady1 and is for the most part a highly satisfying example of a ,renaissance church1 though here and there may be noticed the ,gothic1 which was erected on the eleventh-century foundations4 ,the faade has been restored in recent years1 and is flanked by two pseudo-,romanesque towers or campaniles in the worst of taste4 ,the interior is divided into three naves by columns bearing rounded arches4 ,above1 in the grand nave1 are a series of round-headed windows1 while those in the aisles are ogival4 ,the choir contains a series of ,gothic stalls in stone1 which1 unless it has very recently been scraped off1 are covered with the ordinary cheap whitewash4 ,the painted vaulting is atrocious1 and1 while its hideous colouring lasts1 it matters little whether it is of the ,romanesque barrel style or ogival4 ,the nervures are there1 so it must belong to the latter variety1 but it is all so thickly covered with what looks like enamel paint and gaudy red and blue lining that it is painful to contemplate4 ,there is a fine statue of ,john ,huss supporting the pulpit4 ,it is an adequate monument to one who made history so vivid that it reads almost like legend4 ,in the pavement is a plaque of copper which indicates the spot where ,huss stood when his sentence was read out to him4 ,according to tradition--some have said that it was the ecclesiastical law--,huss was hurled from the church by a coup de pied4 ,the organ-case1 of the fifteenth century1 which backs up the inside wall of the faade1 is one of the most gorgeous of its kind extant1 although there is no very high art expression to be discovered in the overpowering mass of mahogany and lead pipes which1 with inadequate supports1 hangs perilously upon a wall4 ,this particular organ-case is richly sculptured with foliage and figures of men1 demons1 and what not4 ,if it is symbolic1 it is hard to trace the connection between any religious motive and the actual appearance of this ungainly mass of carved wood4 ,there is in the cathedral an elaborate allegorical painting by ,christopher ,storer1 a native of ,constance1 and executed in #afei by the order of ,canon ,sigismund ,mller1 who died in #afhf1 and whose tomb is placed near by4 ,an immense retable is placed at the head of the nave4 ,it is of fine marble1 and1 though a seventeenth-century copy of ,renaissance1 is far more beautiful than such ornaments usually are outside of ,italy4 ,at the head of the left aisle is a chapel which also has an elaborate marble retable of the same period4 ,at the summit is a crucifix1 and below in niches are statues of ,st4 ,thomas1 of ,constantine1 and of his mother1 ,ste4 ,hlne4 ,in the same chapel is a ,christ in the tomb1 in marble1 surrounded by the twelve apostles4 ,from the same aisle ascends a charming ogival staircase ornamented with statues and bas-reliefs4 ,separating the chapels from the aisles are two magnificent iron grilles4 ,in a ,gothic chapel near the entrance is a fine cul de lampe sculptured to represent the history of ,adam and ,eve4 ,a cloister exists1 in part to-day as it did of yore1 to the northeast of the cathedral4 ,it is a highly beautiful example of fifteenth-century work1 with its arcades varying from the firm and dignified early ,gothic to the more flamboyant style of later years4 ,the church of ,st4 ,stephen is another ecclesiastical treasure of ,constance with a rank high among religious shrines4 ,st4 ,stephen's occupies the site formerly given to a chapel dedicated to ,st4 ,nicholas1 while not far away there was1 in other times1 another known under the name of ,maria ,unter der ,linden4 ,the ,bishop ,salomon ,,iii41 who occupied the see from #hia to #iai1 enlarged the first chapel1 which was further embellished in #ice by the ,bishop ,conrad of ,altdorf1 who added a choir thereto4 ,this in time came to be known as ,st4 ,stephen's4 ,it was entirely renovated in #ajdg-ea by the ,bishop ,theodoric1 who was interred therein upon his death4 ,the church served as the meeting-place of the famous ,roman tribunal known as the ,sacra ,rota ,romana4 ,under the ,bishop ,otto ,,iii41 who was ,margrave of ,hochberg1 it was entirely reconstructed in #adbh1 and to-day it is this fifteenth-century building that one sees4 ,previously1 if the records tell truly1 the great windows of the clerestory contained coloured glass of much beauty1 but the remains of to-day are so fragmentary as to only suggest this4 ,from #aebb to #aedh ,st4 ,stephen's was consecrated to the followers of ,luther1 the first incumbent under this belief being the famous ,jacob ,windner of ,reutlingen4 ,the exterior of ,st4 ,stephen's is not in any way remarkable4 ,the bell-tower1 which is very high1 is a great square tower to the left of the choir1 surmounted by a steeple formerly covered with wooden shingles1 but in recent times coppered4 ,the clock in this tower was the gift of ,bishop ,otto ,,iii4 ,there is also a fine chime of bells1 which will remind one of the churches of the ,low ,countries when he hears its limpid notes ring out upon the still air4 ,the interior has been newly whitened with that peculiar local brand of whitewash1 and while bright and cheerful to contemplate1 is also very bare1 caused perhaps by the vast size of the nave and choir4 ,the aisles are separated from the nave by ogival arches1 rising from a series of octagonal pillars1 upon which are hung statues of the twelve apostles4 ,the wooden roof of the nave and its aisles is curious and dates from #afjj1 but it is mostly hidden by a plaster covering which was added in the early nineteenth century4 ,the gilded and highly decorated organ and its case dates from #aehc4 ,in #ahai and #ahci it was restored1 whatever that may mean with regard to an organ1 and at some time between the two dates were added two colossal figures of ,david and ,st4 ,cecilia4 ,there are numerous and elaborate paintings in ,st4 ,stephen's which would make many more popular shrines famous4 ,the most notable are ,st4 ,john before ,king ,wenceslas1 ,the ,stoning of ,st4 ,stephen1 ,the ,glory of the ,lamb1 and an ,adoration1 the work of ,philip ,memberger1 who painted this last at the time of the restablishment of the ,catholic faith at ,constance in #aeej4 ,a portrait of the artist is preserved in the sacristy4 ,many other works of art were demolished or carried away in the years of the ,reformation4 ,in #adad three ,popes disputed the honour of occupying the ,holy ,see1 ,john ,,xxiii41 ,gregory ,,xii41 and ,benoit ,,xiii4 ,the ,emperor ,sigismund1 after having met the deputies of each of the aspirants at ,como and ,lodi1 assembled a council to put an end1 if possible1 to the anarchy which had arisen within the ,church4 ,its place of meeting was ,constance1 and the emperors1 kings1 princes1 cities1 churches1 and universities of ,germany1 ,sweden1 ,denmark1 ,hungary1 ,bohemia1 and ,italy all sent their deputations4 ,france was represented by ,pierre d',ailly1 ,archbishop of ,cambrai1 and ,jean ,gerson1 the chancellor of the ,university of ,paris4 ,the ,council of ,constance was the most numerous body which had ever been called together on behalf of the ,church4 ,it opened its sessions on the #eth of ,november1 #adad1 and continued until the #abth of ,april1 #adah4 ,john ,,xxiii4 declared that he would abdicate if his two competitors would agree to follow his example4 ,gregory ,,xii4 agreed to this and sent his abdication to the council by an ambassador1 ,carlo ,malatesta2 but ,benoit ,,xiii4 fled to ,spain and still clung tenaciously to the title of ,pope4 ,finally1 at a conclave composed of thirty-two cardinals1 ,othon ,colonna was1 in #adag1 elected ,pope under the name of ,martin ,v4 ,the council held at ,constance which condemned ,john ,huss1 who was a ,wyclif disciple before he was one of ,luther's1 took place in #adad4 ,huss was condemned to be burned alive in #adae1 and he mounted the pile1 says history1 with the courage of a martyr4 ,one may see in the ,place ,brhl1 a kilometre from the centre of ,constance1 the very spot where the pile was erected4 ,the present customs warehouse 7,kaufhaus7 formed ,constance's famous council-chamber1 and to-day it is one of the most interesting curiosities of the city4 ,the grand council-chamber is situated on the first floor of the building1 and was erected in #achh4 ,its length approximates two hundred feet1 and it is perhaps one hundred in width with a height of twenty feet4 ,the ceiling is held aloft by fourteen wooden pillars1 and there are twenty-three windows4 ,there are no traces of wall decorations1 and the opinion is hazarded that the walls and pillars were1 at the time of the council1 hung with draperies4 ,from the windows there is a fine view of the ,lake of ,constance1 and but a little distance away is the ,franciscan convent1 now transformed into a factory1 where was incarcerated ,john ,huss previous to his martyrdom4 ,schaffhausen ,of the falls of ,schaffhausen1 ,victor ,hugo wrote3 ,effroyable tumulte4 ,this is the first impression4 ,the four grand1 overflowing channels of the cataract tumble1 rise and redescend in an eternal tempest of rage4 ,a musical ,german once said that the only way to express the tumult of ,schaffhausen's fall was to put it to music4 ,he probably had ,wagner in mind1 and perhaps there are persons who could conjure up a picture of its foam-decked course by means of the master's harmonies4 ,montaigne was of a more practical turn of mind4 ,he said3 ,cela arrte le cours des bateaux et interrompt la navigation de ladite rivire4 ,compared with ,niagara1 ,victoria ,nyanza1 or the great cataract at ,yosemite1 the falls of ,schaffhausen depict no great splendour of aspect1 though they are tumultuous and unqualifiedly picturesque4 ,furthermore1 they form a pretty setting for the little city of some five thousand souls which bears the same name4 ,with ,basel1 ,schaffhausen has preserved its medival character far more than the other cities of ,switzerland4 ,its streets are narrow and irregular1 and most of its houses are of the deep-gabled variety1 many of them having their fronts frescoed in truly theatrical fashion1 the effect1 as might be supposed1 being highly pleasing4 ,schaffhausen owes its prominence in the commercial world to its falls1 which make it necessary for merchandise making its way between ,constance and the ,lower ,rhine to be transshipped at this point4 ,the traffic is by no means so large as that which goes on in the ,lower ,rhine1 but it does exist in proportions so considerable as to justify a certain activity in this old-world town which is noticeable to-day1 and which has existed for many centuries4 ,the name ,schaffhausen 7,schiffhausen7 comes1 it is claimed1 from the houses of the boatmen1 and this seems sufficiently plausible to be accepted without question4 ,the ,fortress of ,munoth dominates the city1 crowning the height of ,mont ,emmers4 ,it occupies the site of an ancient ,roman stronghold1 and1 like its fellows which crown the heights bordering upon the ,german ,rhine1 is formidable in its grimness if not for its actual value in modern warfare4 ,in #ajeb1 ,count ,eberhardt of ,nellenburg founded an abbey here1 and accorded to the abbot rights and powers without limitation1 so far as the count's seigneurial lands were concerned4 ,to-day1 however1 ,schaffhausen is not rich in ecclesiastical monuments4 ,its cathedral is a ,byzantine edifice of the twelfth century1 and is a development from the church of the ancient abbey founded by ,count ,eberhardt4 ,there are no constructive or decorative details which call for remark1 save twelve columns1 each cut from a solid block of sandstone4 ,they measure perhaps twenty feet in height1 and are three feet or more in circumference4 ,there is no resemblance between the architecture of this church and others in the ,rhine valley2 therefore it cannot be considered as typical of any ,rhenish manner of building4 ,st4 ,john's is an ogival edifice also without any great merit1 unless it be that of a grandeur which is contrastingly out of place in its cramped surroundings4 ,below ,schaffhausen is ,sackingen1 the third forest city of the ,rhine4 ,it owes its origin to a convent of ,st4 ,hilaire1 founded in the sixth century by ,st4 ,fridolin4 ,the ,lives of the ,saints recounts how ,st4 ,columba and his disciples left ,ireland and came to ,constance1 where they separated and went their various ways to evangelize the ,rhine valley4 ,to ,st4 ,fridolin fell that part lying between ,basel and ,laufenburg4 ,his bones are yet venerated in the church of ,st4 ,hilaire4 ,illustration ,,vii ,,basel ,,and ,,colmar ,basel ,after traversing several of the ,swiss cantons1 the ,rhine leaves ,switzerland at ,basel4 ,after the breaking up of the vast empire of ,charlemagne1 ,basel came first under the authority of the ,emperors of ,germany1 and then under that of the kings of the second house of ,burgundy1 until #ajcb1 at which time the city became definitely incorporated into the ,german ,empire4 ,rudolph of ,hapsburg besieged the city in #abgd1 and through the fourteenth and well into the fifteenth century it was the theatre of many struggles between the bishops and the emperors4 ,in #ajfa and #adca important councils of the ,church were held here4 ,in #adhi1 at the village of ,dornach1 scarce half a dozen miles from ,basel1 took place that battle between six thousand ,swiss and fifteen thousand ,austrians which made possible the future independence of ,switzerland4 ,during the sixteenth century ,basel enjoyed a glorious era with respect to science and art4 ,its university1 the oldest in ,switzerland1 founded by ,pius ,,ii41 shone brilliantly with the reflected light of the philosopher ,erasmus1 the alchemist ,paracelsus1 and many theologians and geographers4 ,hans ,holbein was born here in the seventeenth century4 ,the ,rhine divides the city into two unequal parts1 which are connected by a bridge which was originally constructed in #abbj4 ,although ,basel bears even yet1 in its architecture1 the stamp of an imperial city of the middle ages1 it must be counted as somewhat modern4 ,nevertheless1 of all the cities of the first rank in ,switzerland it resisted the march of innovation the longest4 ,for instance1 there was a time when all the clocks of the city were an hour behind those of their neighbours4 ,in #aggh1 however1 the ,swiss government decreed that on the first of the following ,january all the clocks of the city must be regulated by solar time4 ,the innovation excited the indignation of the people exceedingly2 but1 fifteen days after the date originally set1 the city fell in with the new regulation1 and took up anew the routine of its life4 ,illustration3 ,,cathedral ,,clock ,b,,le ,the most magnificent of the ,swiss women1 says a gallant ,french writer1 are those of ,basel1 but they know too much 7at all times and all places71 he continued1 somewhat dulling the effect of his praises4 ,they have an elegance of carriage and dress1 which1 added to their naturally agreeable qualities1 gives them a preminence over all other women of ,switzerland4 ,all this is as flowery a compliment as the fair sex of any country could receive1 and1 judging from appearances1 as one lingers a few hours or a few days in ,basel1 it is all true4 ,the most remarkable of all the edifices of ,basel is its cathedral1 or mnster1 dedicated to the ,virgin4 ,in certain of its features one finds a distinct ,lombard influence1--in its sculptures and carvings1 notably the two carved lions in the crypt1 which are the counterparts of others at ,modena and ,verona in ,italy1--though in general it is a ,gothic structure4 ,the cathedral was founded by the ,emperor ,henry ,,ii4 of ,bavaria in #ajaj1 and was dedicated in #ajai4 ,it is constructed of red sandstone1 as are the chief of the architectural monuments along the ,rhine1 and is an imposing example of the ,gothic of that time4 ,the great portal on the west is richly decorated in the archivolt4 ,it is flanked on either side by an arcade whose buttress pillars are each surmounted by a statue in a canopied niche or baldaquin4 ,illustration ,at the foot of the north tower is an equestrian statue of ,st4 ,george and the ,dragon1 and at the angle of the southern tower is another of ,st4 ,martin4 ,two small doorways1 each entering the side aisles1 flank the arcade of the portal4 ,above the principal doorway of this faade is a balcon jour before the great window which lights the main nave4 ,the towers rise beside this great window1 and are of themselves perhaps the most remarkable features of the church4 ,they are not exactly alike1 but they reflect more than any other part of the edifice the characteristics of the ,gothic of these parts4 ,the northern tower was completed in #aejj1 and is sixty-six metres in height4 ,the southern tower is perhaps more ornate1 and resembles1 if somewhat faintly1 ,texier's beautiful spire at ,chartres4 ,the ogival windows of the side walls are strong and of ample proportions4 ,at the extremity of the north transept is a doorway known as the ,porte de ,st4 ,gall1 decorated with statues of the four evangelists4 ,above is a great round window of the variety so commonly seen in ,france4 ,it is here known as the ,wheel of ,fortune4 ,it is not a particularly graceful design1 the rays or spokes being formed of tiny colonnettes1 but is interesting nevertheless and quite unusual along the ,rhine4 ,the coping of the roof of the nave is formed of party-coloured tiles1 which give it a singular bizarre effect when viewed from near by4 ,the interior divides itself in the conventional manner into three naves1 which are bare and with no ornamentation whatever4 ,the pulpit is a real work of art1 and there are some sculptured capitals in the choir which are quite excellent4 ,the baptismal fonts are elaborately carved4 ,one of these1 bearing the date of #adfe1 is shaped something like a gigantic egg-cup4 ,its bowl springs from the stem in eight facets1 sculptured to illustrate the baptism of ,christ in the waters of the ,jordan1 with figures of ,st4 ,lawrence1 ,st4 ,jacques1 ,st4 ,paul1 ,st4 ,pierre1 and ,st4 ,martin4 ,holbein once made a series of decorations for the organ-case of this church1 but they exist no longer4 ,beneath the edifice1 with its entrance from the choir1 is a crypt nearly as large as the nave itself1 with a series of massive pillars supporting its vault and the pavement of the church proper4 ,there are numerous monuments within the church1 including one to ,erasmus1 the illustrious ,hollander who had made ,basel his second home4 ,a stairway leads from the church to the chamber where was held1 from #adca to #addd1 the famous ,council of ,basel4 ,it is a vast1 bare room1 with no furniture whatever1 except the benches upon which sat the prelates assembled at the council4 ,the cloister attached to the cathedral is daintily planned and contains a number of tombs of celebrated persons4 ,behind the church is a magnificent terrace known as the ,pfalz4 ,it is planted with chestnut-trees1 and its elevation1 high above the level of the ,rhine waters1 makes it a magnificent promenade4 ,the ,htel of the ,three ,kings--though it is to-day a modern structure that one sees--was1 in the ninth century1 the meeting-place of ,conrad ,,iii41 ,henry ,,iii41 and ,rudolph ,,iii41 the last ,king of ,burgundy4 ,following another tradition1 the house derived its nomenclature from the reliques of the ,three ,magi1 which were lodged here when on their journey1 in #aafa1 from ,milan to ,cologne4 ,in the museum at ,basel are two of ,holbein's1 sketches made from statues in the ,sainte ,chapelle at ,bourges in ,france4 ,they represent the ,duke ,jean de ,berry and his wife1 ,jeanne de ,boulogne4 ,it seems rather curious that a great draughtsman like ,holbein should deliberately have set himself to copying from a cast1 which is practically what it amounted to in this case1 charming though these drawings be4 ,colmar ,colmar1 the chief town of the circle of ,colmar1 was once strongly fortified4 ,it still has something more than fragments left of its seven towered and turreted gates4 ,formerly it was the capital of ,upper ,alsace1 and later it was the capital of the ,dpartement du ,haut-,rhin4 ,as a result of the war of #ahga it became a ,german city4 ,to ,americans and ,frenchmen it will perhaps be most revered as being the birthplace of ,auguste ,bartholdi1 the designer of the celebrated ,statue of ,liberty at ,new ,york4 7,there is a smaller counterpart at ,paris1 on the ,ile des ,cygnes in the ,seine1 which is often overlooked by visitors to the capital47 ,the church of ,st4 ,martin is a thirteenth-century ,gothic church of more than usual splendour4 ,its fine foundations date from #abcg1 and its choir from #acae4 ,it is of the conventional ,latin cross form1 with two imposing towers and a really grand portal4 ,it is built of red sandstone1 and is surmounted with a wonderfully massive steeple1 which looks more like an adjunct to a fortification than a dependency of a ,christian edifice4 ,there is a counterpart of this feature in the cathedral at ,dol in ,brittany1 but there it has the added detail of a crenelated parapet1 which gives it a still more military air4 ,in other days this great tower on ,st4 ,martin's at ,colmar served the purposes of a civic belfry as well as that of a ,christian campanile4 ,in the sacristy of this rather grim church is an admirable fifteenth-century work of art1 a ,virgin surrounded by garlands of roses1 executed by ,schngauer1 a native of ,colmar 7#adej-hh7 and one of the greatest painters and sculptors of the fifteenth century4 ,there is the restored fabric of the famous convent of the ,dominicans1 known as ,unterlinden1 which is to be considered as one of the chief curiosities of the town4 ,it was built in #abcb1 before even the church of ,st4 ,martin1 and its history was exceedingly prominent in the records of mysticism in ,germany4 ,the conventual establishment was suppressed at the time of the ,revolution1 but in the mid-nineteenth century it was rebuilt with a great deal of thought for the reproduction of the ,gothic architecture of the era of its inception4 ,illustration ,,viii ,,freiburg ,the steeple of ,freiburg is quite the rival of that of ,strasburg2 some even may think it more beautiful4 ,it has braved with impunity the winds and tempests of many centuries1 and stands to-day as beautiful a work of its kind1 when one is away from ,strasburg1 ,chartres1 ,antwerp1 or ,malines1 as one can well conceive4 ,its appearance is indeed magnificent1 with a richness of ornament which has not been carried to the excess that would make it tawdry1 and an outline which in every proportion is just and true4 ,each day brings new admirers to this shrine1 and one and all1 antiquarians and cursory travellers alike1 go away with an enthusiastic regard for its charms4 ,freiburg itself does not go very far back into antiquity4 ,it owes its origin to ,berthold ,,iii41 ,duke of ,zhringen1 who founded it in #aaah and made it the capital of ,breisgau1 one of the most fertile districts of the ancient ,german duchy4 ,the cathedral at ,freiburg marks the opening of a new era in the ,christian architecture of ,germany4 ,it was founded in #aabb by the ,duke of ,zhringen1 soon after he took over the guardianship of the city1 but it was only in #aeac that it was entirely completed4 ,nothing now remains of the primitive church except the transept and the base of the lateral portals4 ,the nave dates from the middle of the thirteenth century1 and the choir was mostly rebuilt at the same time4 ,the dedication did not take place until a century and a half later4 ,the structure is in the conventional form of a ,latin cross1 with the usual nave and aisles and a series of chapels surrounding the apside4 ,the faade is remarkable for the porch1 which is highly ornamented with sculpture and forms the lowest story of the tower4 ,the pediment above the entrance is garnished with statuary representing the crowning of the ,holy ,virgin1 while just below1 at the sides1 are two kneeling figures1 with crowns on their heads1 bent in prayer4 ,illustration3 ,,freiburg ,,cathedral ,besides this gallery of saintly figures1 there are also sculptured symbols which1 in such a company1 might well be thought profane3 figures representing ,geometry1 ,music1 ,arithmetic1 and the ,arts4 ,in the tower1 above the porch1 is a chapel dedicated to ,st4 ,michael1 lighted by three ogival windows4 ,it is now a bare1 uninteresting chamber1 its altar and decorations having disappeared4 ,the third story of the tower forms the belfry1 from which springs the gently tapering and beautiful spire which rises to a height only forty feet less than that of ,strasburg4 ,the dwindling spire has a dozen facets which in some mysterious way unite with the octagon of the belfry in a manner that leaves nothing to criticize4 ,within the cathedral there are some acceptable mural decorations in the wall space above the western arch of the transept crossing4 ,there are also a number of funeral monuments1 finely sculptured and quite remarkable of their kind4 ,one1 a ,christ in the ,sepulchre1 is admirably executed in the sixteenth-century style of ,koempf1 who is responsible also for the elaborate pulpit4 ,there are two other churches in ,freiburg of more than usual interest2 the parish church with a fine fourteenth-century cloister1 and the ,protestant temple1 a modern structure in the ,byzantine style1 which has been built up on the remains of the church belonging to the ancient ,benedictine convent of ,tnnenbach1 which existed in the twelfth century4 ,in the chapel of the university are a number of paintings by ,holbein4 ,illustration ,,ix ,,strasburg ,the greatest curiosity of ,strasburg is the ,rhine2 after that1 its cathedral4 ,usually1 on entering ,strasburg1 the first landmark that greets one's eye is the slim1 lone spire of the cathedral4 ,years ago an itinerant showman travelled about with a model of the celebrated ,strasburg clock1 and the writer got his first ideas of a great ,continental cathedral from the rather crude representation of the ,gothic beauties of that at ,strasburg1 which graced the canvas which hung before the showman's tent4 ,the clock is still there1 in all its mystical incongruity1 but one's interest centres in the grace and elegance of the dwindling spire and its substructure of nave1 transept1 and choir1 which dominates all else round about4 ,of many eras1 the structure of this great ,latin-cross cathedral is not harmonious2 but1 for all that1 it is a great ,gothic triumph1 and one which might well lend most of its details of construction and decoration to any great church1 and still add a charm which was hitherto absent4 ,strasburg has in all fifteen churches1 but the cathedral is possessed of more and greater glories than all the others combined4 ,from the days when ,strasburg was the ,argentoratum of the ,romans1 the city has ever been the scene of an activity which has made its importance known through all the world4 ,it was sacked by ,attila and his ,huns in #dea1 and was completely abandoned up to the seventh century1 when one of the sons of ,clovis built it up anew and gave to it the name of ,strateburgum4 ,ptolemy is said to be the first writer who mentions ,argentoratum1 the ancient ,strasburg4 ,what a bitter blow the loss of ,alsace-,lorraine1 of which ,strasburg was the gem1 was to ,france can only be realized by a contemplation of the sentiment which even yet attaches to the event4 ,that the allied provinces were ,french in spirit as well as ,catholic in religion is demonstrated by the fact that1 at the time of the ,german occupation1 there was a population of over a million and a half of souls1 of which quite a million and a quarter were of the ,roman ,catholic faith4 ,about a million and a quarter were natives of ,alsace-,lorraine1 one hundred thousand were ,germans1 and thirty odd thousand were foreigners4 ,the present cathedral was erected on a site that had been consecrated to religion in very early times4 ,it had been a sacred place in the time of the ,romans1 though the deities worshipped were pagan1 a temple to ,hercules and ,mars having been erected here4 ,the first ,christian church was built1 it is believed1 in the fifth century1 by ,st4 ,amand1 then ,bishop of ,strasburg4 ,this first church of ,strasburg1 which was a wooden structure1 was probably founded by ,clovis1 #ejd1 and reconstructed by ,pepin-le-,bref and ,charlemagne4 ,it was mostly destroyed by fire in #hgc1 and in #ajjb was pillaged and fired anew by the soldiers of ,duke ,hermann1 who was condemned himself to repair the damage4 ,lightning destroyed it again in #ajjg1 and1 by the time the new structure was thought of1 nothing but the crypt of ,charlemagne's edifice was visible4 ,from the proceeds received from ,duke ,hermann1 and contributions from all ,christianity1 ,bishop ,werner conceived a vast scheme of a new church which in time was completed and consecrated4 ,this in turn fell before the ravages of fire1 and nothing but a mass of dbris remained1 from which the present structure was begun in #abgg4 ,the ancient church foundation of ,strasburg was peculiarly arranged1 after a manner most unusual in a cathedral church4 ,the ground-plan of the ecclesiastical establishment was not unlike those of the monkish communities which were so plentifully scattered over ,europe1 but it was built for use as a church1 and for the bishop and his clerics1 instead of being merely a secular monastery4 ,the following diagram explains this unusual arrangement4 ,the masonic theory with regard to the construction of these medival ecclesiastical monuments is of much interest in connection with ,strasburg4 ,the lodge at ,strasburg was the earliest in the north of which we have any knowledge1 and ,ervin von ,steinbach himself seems to have been at the head of it1 which fact proves that he was one of the first of secular architects engaged upon a great religious work4 ,illustration3 ,ancient ,church ,foundation1 ,strasburg ,a--,habitation of bishops and clerics ,b--,cour commune ,c--,part assigned to women ,d--,part assigned to men ,e--,for preaching ,f--,for penitents ,g--,doors ,h--,altars ,i--,pulpits ,k--,choir for clergy ,great opportunities and privileges were conferred upon him by ,rudolph of ,hapsburg1 and the masonic lodge of which he was the head had the power1 over a wide extent of territory1 to maintain order and obedience among the workmen under its jurisdiction4 ,in #abgh ,pope ,nicholas ,,iii4 issued a bull1 giving the body absolution1 and this was renewed by his successors up to the time of ,benedict ,,xii4 ,iodoque ,dotzinger1 master of the works at ,strasburg in #adeb1 formed an alliance between the different lodges of ,germany4 ,it was an appreciative ,frenchman--and all ,frenchmen are appreciative and fond of ,strasburg1 because of what it once was to them--that said3 ,la cathdrale est un merveille unique au monde4 ,continuing1 he said3 ,those who have not seen it know not the gaiet lumineuse of a ,gothic church4 ,all of this is of course quite true from some points of view4 ,there is1 however1 something pitiful about the general aspect of this great ,gothic church4 ,its lone spire1 standing grim and gaunt against a background of sky1 makes only the more apparent the incompleteness of the structure4 ,its faade is certainly marvellous1 quite rivalling those of ,reims and ,toul1 not so very far away across the ,french border4 ,the triple porch of the faade is rich in sculpture1 the most remarkable groups being ,the ,wise and ,foolish ,virgins1 ,the ,prophets1 ,the ,last ,judgment1 and ,christ and the ,twelve ,apostles4 ,illustration3 ,,strasburg ,,cathedral ,a great rose window1 a reminiscence of the masterpieces so frequently seen in ,france1 also decorates this elaborate faade4 ,the south portal is in the form of two round-arched doorways1 and is a survival1 evidently1 of one of the earliest epochs of this style of construction4 ,it is ornamented with bas-reliefs and statues symbolical of the triumph of ,christian religion4 ,there has recently been erected before this portal a statue of the great architect of the fabric1 ,ervin1 and another of his son4 ,the spire1 one of the most elevated in ,europe1 is #ddj feet1 while that of ,cologne is #dhb feet1 ,rouen is #deh feet1 and ,notre ,dame at ,paris but #bjj feet in height4 ,usually church edifices are grim and gray2 but ,strasburg presents1 in its sandstone of the ,vosges1 a beautiful tone1 which in the westering sun of a summer's day can only be described as a rose-pink1 and is like no other church edifice in ,europe1 unless it be the cathedral at ,rodez in ,mid-,france1 which ,henry ,james called mouse-coloured1 but which in reality is a sort of warm1 deep rose4 ,a fine lacework of colonnettes covers the entire faade1 which six centuries have turned to the colour of iridescent copper organ-pipes4 ,but the real grandeur and dignity of the architecture stands out boldly in spite of the ornate turrets and the mass of sculptured detail1 in a way which stamps the fabric imperially as a giant among its kind4 ,of the spire1 ,victor ,hugo wrote thus 7,strasburg was yet ,french1 and not ,german as it is to-day73 ,the truly adorable achievement of the builders of this cathedral is its spire4 ,it is a tiara of stone crowned with a cross4 ,it is prodigious1 gigantic1 but of great delicacy4 ,i have seen ,chartres2 ,i have seen ,antwerp4 ,four escaliers jour ascend spirally the four towerlets at the angles4 ,the steps are very high and narrow4444 ,to mount to the lantern one would have to follow the workmen1 who appear to be continually engaged on the fabric4 ,the stairways are no more1 simply bars of iron set ladderlike in the masonry4 ,from the spire one sees three mountain ranges3 the group of the ,black ,forest to the north2 the ,vosges to the west2 and the ,alps to the south4 ,one stands so high that the country-side appears no longer as the country-side2 but1 like the view from the castle at ,heidelberg1 a mere geographical map4 ,at the time of my visit a great cloud rose up from the valley of the ,rhine1 and framed the panorama for a dozen leagues in truly eerie fashion4 ,as ,i went from one tower to another1 ,i saw about me la ,france1 la ,suisse1 and l',allemagne4 ,it was in #abgg that the celebrated architect1 ,ervin von ,steinbach1 began the construction of the portal of the cathedral at ,strasburg1 and above its great doorway one may yet read1 if he be keen of eyesight and knows where to look for it1 this inscription3 ,,anno4 ,,domini4 ,,mcclxxvii4 ,,in4 ,,die4 ,,beati4 ,,urbani4 ,,hoc4 ,,gloriosum4 ,,opus4 ,,incohavit4 ,,magister4 ,,ervinus ,,de ,,steinbach4 ,ervin died in #acah1 and his son continued the work up to the first landing1 or platform1 of the towers4 ,in the archives of the cathedral are still to be seen the designs on which father and son worked in achieving the portal and towers1 as well as those of the spire1 the north porch1 the pulpit1 and the organ-buffet4 ,not all of these are contemporary1 but the first1 at least1 are the very drawings which were handled by ,matre ,ervin and his son in the latter years of the thirteenth century4 ,the following lines of ,longfellow describe the religious fervour of the great architect perhaps more truthfully than could prose4 444,a great master of his craft1 ,ervin von ,steinbach2 but not he alone1 ,for many generations laboured with him1 ,children that came to see these saints in stone1 ,as day by day out of the blocks they rose1 ,grew old and died1 and still the work went on1 ,and on and on and is not yet completed4 444,the architect ,built his great heart into these sculptured stones1 ,and with him toiled his children1 and their lives ,were builded with his own into the walls ,as offerings to ,god4 ,it is perhaps not possible to write of ,strasburg's cathedral without giving its great clock more than a passing thought4 ,the legendary history of the clock at ,strasburg is as follows3 ,the cathedral being terminated1 the magistrates of the city desired to ornament its tower with a great clock which should be unique in all the world4 ,no one came forth to undertake the commission1 until a workman1 much advanced in years1 agreed for a certain sum to produce a clock which should be superior to all others then existing4 ,after some years of incessant work1 he produced the first of ,strasburg's wonderful mechanical clocks full of moving figures and symbols4 ,in lieu of recompense1 the magistrates1 desiring that their city should be the sole possessor of such a work1 accused the old man of having had resource to the aid of the devil in producing so weird a timepiece1 and condemned him to torture and the loss of his eyesight4 ,upon a pretext of making some further arrangement of the works before the execution of his sentence1 the old man was allowed once more to mount the tower4 ,instead of adjusting the clock1 he deranged it in some way so that its chimes never rang out as intended1 and thus the magistrates and the citizens of ,strasburg were1 in a way1 avenged for the injustice done the inventor4 ,this famous clock of ,strasburg's tower is now only a memory4 ,the more recent works of a similar nature have a history less sordid and unpleasant4 ,the first clock of the cathedral1 placed inside the church at the crossing1 dated from #aceb1 and of course was a remarkable work for its time4 ,two hundred years later it was intended to replace it with another1 but the work was never achieved1 so a third was begun with an effort to outdo the ingenuity which had made possible the fourteenth-century astronomical wonder4 ,it was planned in #aega1 under the direction of ,conrad ,dasypodius1 of ,strasburg1 and his friend ,daniel ,volkenstein1 an astronomer of ,augsburg4 ,it was completed in #aegd1 restored in #affi and #agcb1 and ceased its labours through the stress of time in #agij4 ,the present great clock1 certainly an unseemly and incongruous adjunct of a great church1 was commenced on the #bdth of ,june1 #ahch1 and installed on the #cast of ,december1 #ahdb4 ,its construction is supposed to have reflected great credit upon its designer1 one ,schwilgu1 a clock-maker of ,strasburg4 ,nothing was preserved of the more ancient timepiece1 except its elaborate case1 which was restored and further embellished4 ,at the base of the tower1 on the summit of which is placed the crowing cock1 is a portrait of the designer4 ,this great man1 say the local patriots1 died an octogenarian in #ahef4 ,in #agbc a subterranean tremor sent the tower of ,strasburg's cathedral a foot out of plumb4 ,it speaks well for the solidity of the construction that no ill effects resulted1 and to-day there are no evidences1 to the casual observer1 of this deflection4 ,the beauty of ,strasburg's cathedral was in so great repute in the middle ages that ,jean ,galeaz ,marie1 ,visconti ,sforza1 in #adha1 demanded of the magistrates of the city the name of an architect capable of completing his cathedral at ,milan4 ,in a vaulted chamber attached to the cathedral proper are two strangely curious memorials4 ,they are nothing more or less than two mummies which1 for their better preservation1 have been varnished1 and the costumes which they anciently wore have from time to time been renewed4 ,one is the mummy of the ,count of ,nassau-,saarbruck1 who died in the sixteenth century1 and the other is that of a young girl of perhaps twenty years1 supposed to have been his daughter4 ,the ancient church of ,st4 ,bartholomew is another of ,strasburg's ecclesiastical shrines which ranks high among great churches4 ,it dates from the second half of the thirteenth century1 but frequent additions have been made in more recent times4 ,it possesses a remarkable monument which shows a painted ,danse des ,morts1 with figures of nearly life size4 ,it is a fresco on the inner walls of the overhanging canopy of a tomb4 ,the painting dates from the fifteenth century1 but was only discovered in #ahbd1 on the occasion of a general renovation of the church4 ,the choir was begun in #acjh and completed in #acde4 ,its height and its general airiness1 and the lightness of its vaulting and arches1 unite in making it quite unusual and most worthy of note4 ,this ancient church to-day is occupied by the ,protestants1 and the edifice has been divided up in a somewhat sacrilegious manner in order to provide within its walls for a library and a museum4 ,strasburg has another great church in ,st4 ,thomas1 a vast ogival edifice which has some good glass1 but which is remarkable above all else for the number of its sepulchral monuments1 both ancient and modern4 ,at the end of the choir is found one of those wonders of ,french sculpture1 an allegorical grouping of figures on the tomb of ,marchal de ,saxe4 ,it was erected in #aggg by ,pigalle by the order of ,louis ,,xv4 ,for a background it has a pyramid of gray marble1 at the base of which is the following inscription3 ,,mavritio ,,saxoni ,,cvrlandiae ,,et ,,semigalliae ,,dvci ,,svmmo ,,regiorvm ,,exercitvvm ,,praefecto ,,semper ,,victori ,,lvdovicvs ,,xv ,,victoriarvm ,,avctor ,,et ,,ipse ,,dvx ,,poni ,,ivssit ,,obiit ,,xxx ,,nov4 ,,anno ,,mdccl4 ,,aetatis ,,lv4 ,standing in the centre of the pyramid is a figure of the marchal descending toward the sarcophagus below4 ,a figure representing ,death is lifting the lid1 and another1 representing ,france1 is endeavouring to stay his hand4 ,flags1 a reversed torch1 and other symbols1 with another figure representing the genius of war1 complete the details of this elaborate monument4 ,there is little of anything but ,gothic1 more or less pure1 visible at ,strasburg2 but1 in spite of this1 it is alleged that1 from ,carlovingian times onward1 there was here a colony of artisans who had been sent from ,lombardy on account of the increased interest in the north in church-building4 ,if this is so1 they must have pushed onward down the ,rhine1 as they left but little impression here1 and1 while ,rhenish church-building was manifestly not ,gothic in its inception1 here at ,strasburg there are certainly no evidences of the ,comacine builders of ,charlemagne's time4 ,strasburg's ancient episcopal palace was built in #agca-da by ,cardinal de ,rohan4 ,it was bought by the city before the ,revolution and transformed into a chteau imprial1 and became later the home of the local university4 ,the edifice known in early days as the ,maison de l',oeuvre ,notre ,dame1 and more recently as ,stift zu unser lieben ,frauen1 was built in #aeha1 numerous ,gothic sculptures from the cathedral being used in its construction4 ,there is here a remarkable spiral staircase in the light and delicate flowered ,gothic of its time4 ,illustration ,x ,,metz ,from across the ,moselle1 on the height just to the south of the city of ,metz1 is to be had one of those widely spread panoramas which defy the artist or the photographer to reproduce4 ,there is an old ,french saying that the ,rhine had power2 the ,rhne impetuosity2 the ,loire nobility2 and the ,moselle elegance and grace4 ,this last is well shown in the charming river-bottom which spreads itself about the ancient ,mediomatricorum1 as ,metz was known to the ,romans4 ,the enormously tall nave and transepts of the cathedral of ,metz dominate every other structure in the city1 in a fashion quite in keeping with the strategic importance of the place from a military point of view4 ,time was when ecclesiastical affairs and military matters were much more closely allied than now1 and certainly if there was any inspiration to be got from a highly impressive religious monument in their midst1 the warriors of another day1 at ,metz1 must have felt that they were doubly blessed4 ,illustration3 ,metz ,since the ,franco-,prussian war1 ,metz1 with ,strasburg1 has become transformed2 but its ancient monuments still exist to charm and gratify the antiquarian4 ,indeed1 it was as recently as #aijj that the ,tour des ,lennyers1 a wonderful structure of ,roman times1 was discovered4 ,metz was fortified as early as in the third century1 and to-day its walls and moats1 though modern1--the work of ,vauban1--are still wonders of their kind4 ,in the ,roman period the city was of great importance4 ,in the fifth century it was attacked1 taken1 and destroyed by the ,huns2 but1 when it was rebuilt and became the capital of ,austrasia1 its prosperity grew rapidly4 ,in #aeeb the ,due de ,montmorenci made himself master of the city1 and some months later ,henri ,,ii4 made his entre4 ,during the winter of the same year it successfully resisted ,charles ,v41 thanks to ,franois de ,lorraine and the ,duc de ,guise4 ,the great abbey of ,st4 ,arnulphe disappeared at this time4 ,it stood on the site of the present railroad station1 where1 in #aijb1 were found many fragments of religious sculptures1 coming presumably from the old abbey4 ,in #aeef-fb the citadel was constructed by ,marchal ,vielleville4 ,within the citadel was the old church of ,st4 ,pierre1 one of those minor works of great beauty which are often overlooked when summing up the treasures of a cathedral town4 ,the old church dated originally from the seventh century1 though reconstructed anew in the tenth1 and again in the fifteenth century4 ,the walls of the surrounding fortifications are of incontestable antiquity4 ,beneath the pavement of the chapel have recently been found fragments of sculptured stone dating from ,merovingian times4 ,it was during a dangerous illness at ,metz that ,louis ,,xv4 is said to have made the vow which led to the erection of that pagan-looking structure1 the church of ,sainte ,genvive1 more commonly known as the ,pantheon1 at ,paris4 ,it is the largest modern church in ,france1 if1 indeed1 one can really consider it to-day as a church4 ,metz1 before its annexation by ,germany1 was as ,french as ,reims or ,troyes4 ,many of the natives of the city have since left1 but they have been replaced by ,germans1 so the population has not suffered in numbers4 ,of a population of forty-five thousand1 there are twenty-four thousand soldiers4 ,hotels1 shops1 and cafs have become ,germanized1 but1 curiously enough1 many1 if not nearly all1 of the cab-drivers speak ,french1 and ,french money passes current everywhere4 ,certain restaurants preserve what they call the traditions de la cuisine franaise1 and in the municipal theatre a company of ,french players come from ,nancy three times a week in the winter season4 ,metz1 one of the three ancient bishoprics of imperial ,lorraine1 now forms a part of ,elsass-,lothringen1 where the ,german ,emperor reigns as emperor and not merely as ,king of ,prussia4 ,the churches of ,metz show very little of ,romanesque influences1 though it is indeed strong in churches dating from the thirteenth century onward4 ,early ,gothic in nearly every shade of excellence is to be found in the churches of ,metz1 from the cathedral church of ,st4 ,stephen downwards1 and1 because of this1 it is the ,continental city where the development of the style can be most thoroughly studied and appreciated4 ,in many cases there are only fragments1 at least1 that which is to be admired is more or less fragmentary2 but1 in spite of that1 they are none the less precious and valuable as a record4 ,besides its churches1 ,metz has1 in its ancient donjon or castle-keep1 a singularly impressive monument of its past greatness1 which stands in the ,geisbergstrasse1 or the ,rue de ,chvremont1 as the street is called by the ,french1 for ,metz1 like ,strasburg and the other cities and towns of poor rent ,alsace and ,lorraine1 is even yet a muddle of ,french and ,german proper names4 ,this great pile was doubtless the former royal shelter of ,theodoric and others of his line4 ,to-day ,metz is mostly a city of strategic fortifications2 but this is but one aspect1 and the seat of the renowned bishopric of ,lorraine has in its cathedral church an ecclesiastical monument of almost supreme rank4 ,st4 ,stephen's ,cathedral is a vast structure of quaint and almost grotesque outline1 when seen from across the ,moselle4 ,its chief distinction1 at first glance1 is its height1 which seems to dwarf all its other proportions2 but in reality it is attenuated in none of its dimensions1 and its clerestory is hugely impressive1 where one so often finds this feature a mere range of shallow windows4 ,among the great churches of ,northern ,europe1 the cathedral of ,st4 ,stephen stands third1 it being surpassed only by the cathedrals of ,beauvais and ,cologne4 ,this fact is frequently overlooked1 and ordinarily ,metz would be classed with that secondary group which includes ,reims1 ,bourges1 and ,narbonne2 but so accurate an authority as ,professor ,freeman vouches for the statement4 ,the clerestory1 of a prodigious height1 is borne aloft by a series of rather squat-looking pillars1 but again figures demonstrate that the cathedral at ,metz is truly one of the wonders of its kind4 ,there is a north tower which is1 or was1 a part of the civic establishment as well1 in that it contained an alarm-bell1 similar to those employed in the ,netherlands1 known as ,la ,mutte4 ,twin towerlets straddle the nave of the cathedral in a quite unexplainable manner4 ,altogether the building has a most remarkable and not wholly beautiful sky-line1 to which one must become accustomed before it is wholly loved4 ,decidedly the least likable portion of the exterior of ,st4 ,stephen's is the west front1 which is decidedly incongruous1 whereas in most places it is the west front that shines and is truly brilliant4 ,certainly1 in this respect ,metz does not follow that ,french tradition which1 in its ,gothic churches1 it otherwise obeys4 ,st4 ,stephen's really rises to almost a supreme height4 ,it has been said to exceed that of ,amiens and ,beauvais1 but this is manifestly not so1 for1 if the figures are correct1 it is some seven feet lower than ,amiens and twenty lower than ,beauvais4 ,still1 it rises to a daring height1 and its walls of glass1 with their enormously tall clerestory windows1 only accentuate its airiness and grace4 ,this last quality is remarkable in ,gothic architecture of so early a period1 the thirteenth century4 ,at ,st4 ,ouen at ,rouen1 to which its openness may be compared1 and perhaps to ,gloucester in ,england1 the work is of a much later date4 ,the interior of ,st4 ,stephen's presents an equally marked effect of height and brilliancy1 with perhaps an exaggeration of the ample clerestory at the expense of the triforium4 ,there is a remarkable symmetry in the nave and its aisles2 and its strong columns1 with their shafting rising to the roof groins1 show a method of construction so daring that modern builders certainly would not care to copy it4 ,the glass of the great clerestory windows in the choir dates only from the sixteenth century1 and was designed by one ,bousch of ,strasburg4 ,the windows of the north and south transepts are exceedingly brilliant specimens of the medival glass-workers' art4 ,there are some fragmentary remains1 in the clerestory of the nave1 of glass of a much earlier period than that in the choir1 possibly contemporary with the fabric itself 7thirteenth century74 ,if this is so1 it is of the utmost value1 worthy to be admired with the gold and jewelled treasures of the cathedral's sacristy4 ,in the sacristy there used to be the ring of ,arnulphe and the mantle of ,charles the ,great1 but doubts have been cast upon the latter1 and the former has disappeared4 ,there is1 somewhere about the precincts of the cathedral1 a weird effigy of a monster known as the ,grauly1 which1 like the ,tarasque at ,tarascon and the dragon of ,st4 ,bertrand de ,comminges1 is a made-up1 theatrical property which even in its symbolism is ludicrous in its false sentiment4 ,besides ,metz's cathedral1 there is the church of ,st4 ,vincent on an island in the river1 which lacks orientation and faces almost due south4 ,it is as distinctly a ,german type of church as the cathedral is ,french2 but this is more as regards its outline than anything else1 for its ,gothic is very1 very good4 ,its interior is dignified1 but graceful1 though it lacks a triforium4 ,st4 ,martin's is a smaller church1 but is contemporary with ,st4 ,stephen's and ,st4 ,vincent's 7thirteenth century74 ,st4 ,maximin's is a still smaller edifice1 and would be called ,romanesque if ,german did not suit it better4 ,it resembles somewhat the parish churches seen in the country-side in ,england1 and is in no way remarkable or highly interesting1 if we except the tall central tower4 ,st4 ,eucharius's and ,st4 ,sagelone's complete the list of the unattached churches of ,metz2 ,st4 ,clement's being but an attribute of the ,jesuit college4 ,st4 ,eucharius's stands near what we would call the ,german ,gate1--locally known as ,deutsches ,thor1 or the ,porte des ,allemands1--a medival gateway built into1 or built around1 rather1 by the modern fortifications with which the city is protected4 ,the church is most lofty for its size4 ,its pier arches are of great proportions1 and its clerestory1 like ,st4 ,stephen's itself1 is of more than ordinarily ample dimensions4 ,there is no triforium4 ,st4 ,sagelone's remains practically a pure ,gothic example of its time1 rather later than the rest of its kind in ,metz4 ,it has some fine coloured glass1 in spite of the fact that its antiquity cannot be very great4 ,st4 ,clement's is a dependency of the ,jesuit installation1 which reflects more credit upon that order than has usually been accorded them in the arts of church-building4 ,it is a more or less incongruous combination of the ,italian and ,gothic styles1 but blended with such a consummate skill that the effect can but be admired4 ,in form ,st4 ,clement's is frankly a ,hallenkirche1 with the three naves of equal height4 ,in general the nave is late ,gothic1 with the marked tracery of its time in its fenestration4 ,the capitals of the piers1 supporting the arches between the nave and its aisles1 are stately but heavy1 according to ,gothic standards1 and appear misplaced1 luxurious though they undeniably are4 ,st4 ,clement's is supposed to resemble the variety of ,gothic which has been employed in ,sicily1 where ,gothic of the best was known1 but was used in conjunction with other details1 which really added nothing to its value or beauty as a distinct style4 ,one leaves ,metz with the memory full of visions of many churches and much soldiery of the conventional ,german type4 ,there is plenty1 in all of these towns1 to remind one of both ,france and ,germany4 ,in the geography of other times1 ,metz was ,lotharingian2 but ,french was very early the language of the city1 and its prelates and churchmen1 when they did not use ,latin1 spoke only the ,french tongue1 and fell under ,french influences4 ,therefore it was but natural that the type of ,metz's principal church should have favoured the ,french style1 even though it developed ,german tendencies4 ,,xi ,,speyer ,when ,christianity penetrated into the vast and populous provinces of ,germany1 the ,frankish kings favoured its progress and founded upon the banks of the ,rhine many religious establishments4 ,dagobert ,i41 ,king of ,austrasia1 built the first church at ,speyer1 upon the ruins of a temple which the ,romans had consecrated to ,diana4 ,when1 at the beginning of the eleventh century1 this early structure fell in ruins1 thanks to the bounty of ,conrad ,,ii41 another of far greater and more beautiful proportions was erected4 ,the idea of a new edifice was proposed to ,walthour1 then bishop1 who1 like many of his fellow prelates of the time1 was himself an architect of no mean attainments4 ,the difficult art of church-building had no secrets from the bishop1 and he set about the work forthwith1 and with ardour4 ,he worked three years upon the plans1 and on the #abth of ,july1 #ajcj1 in the presence of the vassals and seigneurs of the court1 the emperor laid the foundation-stone of the present cathedral1 and declared that the church should serve as the sepulchre of the princes of his race4 ,twelve tombs were prepared beneath the choir1 which itself is known as the ,choir of the ,kings1 in the same way as the cathedral itself has come to be known as the ,cathedral of the ,emperors4 ,eight emperors and three empresses have been placed within these tombs3 ,conrad ,,ii41 ,henry ,,iii41 ,henry ,,iv41 ,henry ,v41 ,philip of ,suabia1 ,rudolph of ,hapsburg1 ,albert of ,austria1 ,adolph of ,nassau1 the wife of ,conrad ,,ii41 ,bertha1 the unfortunate companion of ,henry ,,iv41 and ,beatrice1 the wife of the great ,barbarossa4 ,above the tombs of the emperors one may read the following ,latin inscription3 ,filius hic--,pater ,hic--,avus ,hic--,proavus jacet istic--,hic proavi conjux--,hic ,henrici ,senioris4 ,the cathedral of ,speyer was far from being completed at this time1 but the new bishop1 ,siegfried1 was a no less able architect than his predecessor1 and he directed the work with zeal and talent4 ,illustration ,already the principal body of the church was rearing itself skyward1 and in #ajfj the edifice was practically complete1 after thirty years of persevering effort4 ,it is a bizarre sort of a church as seen to-day1 and must always have had much the same character2 still it is of a style which gave birth to a new and distinct movement in cathedral building1 and the authorities have declared that the three edifices founded by the ,emperor ,conrad1 the cathedral of ,speyer1 the collegiate church of ,st4 ,guidon1 and the monastery of ,limburg1 were the foundations of a new school of ecclesiastical architecture1 and the envy of all the other provinces of the ,empire4 ,the cathedral was consecrated under ,bishop ,eginhard1 and immediately all church-building ,europe went into raptures over it1 its proportions and dimensions1 its fine plan1 its six spires1 and the magnificently spacious arrangement of its transept and apside4 ,in #aaei the fabric suffered much from fire1 but before a decade had passed it was restored in such a manner that the church again stood complete4 ,another fire followed in #aahi1 and in #adej yet another of still greater extent1 and only the holy vessels1 the reliquaries1 and the altar ornaments were saved from the flames4 ,bishop ,reinhold1 of ,helmstadt1 and the chapter1 set about forthwith to rebuild the cathedral1 and1 while its ashes were still smouldering1 they took a vow to make it more beautiful than before4 ,the bishop wrote a letter to ,pope ,boniface ,,viii41 on the occasion of his jubilee in the same year1 and obtained a pontifical decree that all who gave financial help toward the erection of the new cathedral should be blessed with the same indulgence as those who visited the tombs of the apostles at ,rome4 ,the bishop lost no time1 and his agents went forth into all ,germany to get funds to rerect the sepulchral church of the emperors4 ,they were received favourably1 and twenty-one thousand golden florins furnished ,bishop ,reinhold the means of carrying out his project4 ,after the wars of the sixteenth century1 when ,speyer was sacked1 pillaged1 and burned1 the sturdy walls of the cathedral again fell1 and only in the eighteenth century was it restored4 ,for a long time1 only the choir was rebuilt1 the nave being neglected up to #aggb1 when ,bishop ,august of ,limburg undertook to restore the entire edifice1 which1 considering that he did it in the eighteenth century1 he did comparatively well4 ,the choir and nave reflect1 considerably1 the spirit of the middle ages4 ,the faade alone indicates the false taste of the period in which it was restored4 ,in general the exterior decoration is simple and remarkable for its interest4 ,the interior was wisely restored in #ahbc1 and shows a series of mural decorations of more than usual excellence1 and the statue of ,rudolph of ,hapsburg1 a modern work by a pupil of ,thorwaldsen's1 is less offensive than might be supposed4 ,in ,speyer's cathedral are an elaborate series of frescoes by ,schraudolph1 forming a part of the extensive renovation undertaken by ,maximilian ,,ii4 of ,bavaria4 ,the cloister1 built in #adcg1 exists no more4 ,the baptistery is a curious octagonal edifice ornamented with eight columns and surmounted by a dome4 ,it is lighted by eight narrow windows4 ,the origin of the baptistery is in dispute2 but1 while doubts are likely enough to be cast upon the assertion1 it is repeated here1 on the strength of the opinion of many authorities1 that it may have descended from the time of ,dagobert4 ,there are numerous grotesque carvings1 which ornament the cathedral in its various parts1 and which have ever been the despair of antiquarians as to their meaning4 ,in one place on the exterior of the apside is a queerly represented mle between gnomish figures of men and beasts with human heads4 ,and again1 in the nave1 there is a figure of a dwarf with a long beard1 with a sort of helmet on his head1 and a sword at his side4 ,if he is supposed in any way to represent the ,church militant1 the symbolism is badly expressed4 ,st4 ,bernard preached the ,crusades here in the presence of ,conrad ,,iii41 of ,hohenstaufen1 who was so inspired by the enthusiasm of the holy man that he took the cross himself4 ,it was in the cathedral of ,speyer1 too1 that ,st4 ,bernard added to the canticle of ,salva ,regina these words1 ,o ,clemens6 ,o ,pia6 ,o ,dulcis ,virgo ,maria1 which have since been sung in all the ,roman churches of the universe4 ,an ancient legend recounts how one day ,st4 ,bernard had come late to the church1 when the statue of the ,virgin cried out to him3 ,o ,bernharde1 cur tum tarde8 and that the saint1 with very little respect on this occasion1 replied3 ,mulier taceat in ecclesia4 ,since that time1 says the legend1 the ,madonna has never spoken4 ,,xii ,,carlsruhe1 ,,darmstadt1 ,,and ,,wiesbaden ,carlsruhe ,carlsruhe is modern1 very modern1 and is a favourite resting-place with those who would study the language and customs of ,germany4 ,in fact1 there is not much else to attract one1 except a certain conventional society air1 which seems to pervade all of its two score thousand inhabitants4 ,the architectural treasures of the city mostly bear eighteenth-century dates1 from the great monumental gateway1 by which one enters the city1 and on which one reads1 ,regnante ,carolo ,frederico1 ,m4,b41 ,s4,r4,i4,p4,e41 to the ,academy of ,fine ,arts1 really the most beautiful structure of the city1 which dates only from #ahde1 though reproducing the ,byzantine style of the early ages4 ,the great palace designed by ,weinbrunner branches out like the leaves of a fan1 and1 if not the equal of ,versailles or ,fontainebleau1 suggests them not a little in general effect4 ,the two chief churches of ,carlsruhe are in no way great ecclesiastical edifices1 or of any intrinsic artistic worth whatever4 ,both the principal ,protestant place of worship and the ,catholic edifice are from the designs of ,weinbrunner1 and are a confused mixture of pretty much all the well recognized details of style1 with no convincing features of any4 ,they are pretentious1 gaudy1 and quite out of keeping with religious feeling4 ,the ,catholic edifice is a poor1 ungainly imitation of the ,pantheon at ,rome1 which reflects no dignity upon its author or the religion which it houses4 ,the ,protestant church has its faade ornamented with six ,corinthian columns--a weakly pseudo-classic style--which lead up to a tower which would be suitable enough to a country-side ,german parish church1 but which1 in a prosperous and gay little metropolis of pleasure1 like ,carlsruhe1 is unappropriate and unfeeling1 particularly when one recalls that it is a modern building which one contemplates4 ,the window openings1 too1 recall rather those of a dwelling-house than of a religious edifice4 ,so1 when all is said and done1 there is not much in favour of ,carlsruhe's churches4 ,one link binds ,carlsruhe with the traditions of ecclesiastical art in ,germany1 and that is a most acceptable statue of ,ervin von ,steinbach1 the master-builder of ,strasburg's cathedral4 ,it flanks the principal portal of the ,polytechnic ,school4 ,darmstadt ,though more ancient than ,carlsruhe1 ,darmstadt has a prosperous modern appearance1 and consequently lacks those lovable qualities of a tumble-down medival town which usually surround architectural treasures of the first rank4 ,the ,stadthaus1 or ,htel de ,ville1 dates from the fifteenth century1 and the ,palace from #afje 7in its reconstructed form72 but there is nothing of sufficient interest about the churches to warrant the devotee of ecclesiastical architecture ever setting foot within their doors4 ,as delightful little cities1 with tree-bordered promenades and a general air of prosperity and modernity1 ,carlsruhe and ,darmstadt are well enough2 but1 as the setting for religious shrines1 they are of no importance4 ,behind the ,stadthaus1 in the old town1 will be found the ,protestant place of worship4 ,it is in unconvincing ,gothic1 with nothing remarkable about its constructive elements1 and little or nothing with respect to its details4 ,one feature might perhaps arrest the attention4 ,this is a retable of the conventional orthodox form which occupies the usual place--even in this ,protestant church--at the end of the choir4 ,the ,catholic church is situated on a great rectangular open place1 known as the ,wilhelminen ,platz4 ,it is a recent construction1 and accordingly atrocious4 ,in form it is an enormous rotunda1 one hundred and thirty-four feet in circumference1 lighted by a shaft in the centre of its immense cupola4 ,the porch by which one enters this rather pagan-looking structure is simple1 and by far the most gracious feature of the edifice4 ,on the frieze one reads1 in great golden letters1 the single word ,deo4 ,in the lunette which surmounts this porch is a sculptured figure of the ,virgin between two adoring angels1 and on a marble tablet is engraved3 ,,ludovico ,,hassi ,,et ,,ad ,,rhenum ,,magno ,,duci ,,patri ,,patriae ,the interior1 more even than that of the church at ,carlsruhe1 is a weak imitation of the ,pantheon at ,rome4 ,the great dome is upheld by twenty-eight enormous ,corinthian columns1 but the walls are bare and without ornament of any sort4 ,the only accessory with any pretence at artistic expression is the altar4 ,it is either remarkably fine1 or else it looks so in comparison with its bare surroundings4 ,wiesbaden ,a conventional account of ,wiesbaden would read something as follows3 ,wiesbaden1 the capital of the ,duchy of ,nassau1 is about an hour's drive by road from ,mayence and three from ,frankfort4 ,it lies in a valley1 encircled by low hills1 behind which1 on the north and northwest1 rises the range of the ,taunus ,mountains1 whose dark foliage forms an agreeable contrast to the brighter green of the meadows and the white buildings of the town4 ,within the last few years several new streets have been erected2 the ,wilhelmstrasse1 fronting the promenades1 would bear a comparison with some of the finest streets in ,europe4 ,such1 in fact1 is the description which usually opens the accounts one reads in the books of travel of a half or three-quarters of a century ago4 ,to-day ,wiesbaden1 as a watering-place1 doubtless retains all the virtues that it formerly possessed2 but fashionable invalids have deserted ,wiesbaden for ,homburg4 ,all this is of course quite apart from the consideration of great churches2 but great churches1 for that matter1 were quite apart from the considerations of most of the visitors to ,wiesbaden4 ,the city possesses1 however1 a very satisfactory modern ,catholic church1 the work of the architect ,hoffmann4 ,it will not take rank with the medival masterpieces of many other places1 but it demonstrates1 as has only seldom been demonstrated1 that it is possible to make a very satisfactory church building of to-day by copying pleasing details of other times4 ,were it not that it is built in the red sandstone of the country1 this fine edifice would be even more effective4 ,it is not a thoroughly consistent style that one sees4 ,there is ,byzantine1 ,romanesque1 and avowedly ,gothic details superimposed one upon another2 but this is often seen in the masterpieces of other times1 and1 so long as the varieties are not put into quarrelling relationship with each other1 it is perhaps allowable4 ,there is a triangular pediment above the grand portal which is certainly most singular1 and may have been a product of the author's fancy alone4 ,nothing exactly similar is remembered elsewhere4 ,in the main1 however1 the whole structure is reminiscent of much that1 drawn from various sources1 is the best of its kind4 ,the interior is divided into three naves by numerous great and small pillars of a polygonal form1 the capitals only bearing any traces of modelling4 ,the high altar is decorated with some good sculptures1 and there are a series of paintings1 which might be modern1 or might be ancient1 so far as their unconvincing merits go4 ,of the attraction of the waters and the pleasures of the society found at ,wiesbaden during the season1 nothing shall have place here1 save to remark that the springs were famous even in the times of the ,romans4 ,there is a ,greek chapel1 built in #ahee1 at two kilometres from ,wiesbaden4 ,in the style of the sacred edifices of ,moscow1 this chapel was erected by the ,emperor of ,russia and by the ,grand ,duke ,adolphe of ,nassau to serve as the mausoleum of the ,duchess ,elizabeth of ,nassau1 a ,russian princess4 ,illustration3 ,,greek ,,chapel1 ,,wiesbaden ,this fine memorial was also the work of the architect ,hoffmann1 and1 though bizarre and unbeautiful enough from certain points of view1 it is a highly successful transplanting of an exotic4 ,illustration ,,xiii ,,heidelberg ,,and ,,mannheim ,heidelberg ,as the ancient capital of the ,lower ,palatinate1 ,heidelberg early came into great prominence1 though many of the details of its early history are lost in obscurity4 ,the ,romans have left traces of their passage1 but the history of the early years of ,christianity is but vaguely surmised4 ,conrad of ,hohenstaufen1 brother of the red-bearded ,frederick1 came here1 in #aadh1 as the first ,count ,palatine of the ,rhine4 ,the ruins of what is supposed to have been his once famous chteau are yet to be seen on the ,geissberg4 ,in #abbh ,heidelberg was declared the capital of the ,palatinate under ,otto of ,wittelsbach1 and became the residence of the ,electors1 who1 for five hundred years1 inhabited that other and more popularly famous chteau1 which is known to all travellers on the ,rhine as the ,castle of ,heidelberg4 ,in #agbd1 they chose ,mannheim as their official residence4 ,few cities of ,europe have so frequently undergone such horrors of civilized warfare1 if warfare ever is civilized1 as has ,heidelberg1 though mostly it is associated in the popular mind of personally conducted tourists as a city of wine and beer drinking and general revelry and mirth4 ,the city has been five times bombarded1 twice reduced to ashes1 and three times taken by assault and pillaged4 ,to-day1 it has recovered from all these disasters and takes its place as one of the most brilliant of the smaller commercial centres of the ,rhine valley1 though for that matter ,heidelberg is situated some little distance from the river itself4 ,of ,heidelberg's population of perhaps twenty-five thousand souls1 nearly one-third are ,catholics1 an exceedingly large proportion for a ,german town4 ,st4 ,peter's1 the most ancient of ,heidelberg's churches1 contains many tombs of the ,electors4 ,in #afic ,mlac and his soldiers1 after having thrown to the winds1 at ,speyer1 the ashes of the emperors1 rummaged about here in the church of ,st4 ,peter1 and tore the bones of the nobles from their leaden caskets1 throwing them broadcast in the streets4 ,a ,frenchman who remarked upon this sacrilege forgot that his own countrymen did the same at ,st4 ,denis's a hundred years later4 ,the principal church edifice of the city is ,st4 ,esprit's4 ,its architecture belongs to the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries1 though it cannot be described as belonging to any precise style4 ,its interior is divided into two parts1 which1 curiously enough1 were devoted to two distinct sects1 the choir being consecrated to the ,catholics and the nave being occupied by the ,protestants4 ,jerome of ,prague1 a disciple of ,john ,huss1 harangued his believers in this church in times contemporary with that of ,huss himself4 ,in the midst of the market-place is a statue of the ,virgin1 and facing the north side of the church is a house dating from #adib1 known to-day by the sign of the ,chevalier zum ,ritter4 ,among the numerous ornaments of this fine medival dwelling-house is to be noted the following inscription3 ,si ,jehova non edificet domum1 frustra laborant oedificantes eam ,v4 ,s4 ,,cxxvii4--,soli ,deo gloria et perstat invicta ,venus4 ,the ,university of ,heidelberg1 as presumably all readers of guide-books know1 is the most ancient and the most celebrated in ,germany4 ,it was founded by ,robert ,i4 in #achf4 ,luther gave his dissertation here in #aeae1 hence1 so far as its connection with religious matters goes1 it is of great importance4 ,its library was one of the most precious in ,europe1 but ,tilly1 who headed the ,bavarians who entered ,heidelberg in #afbb1 presented the greater part of it to ,pope ,leo ,,xi4 ,the valuable books and manuscripts remained in the ,vatican1 where they formed the ,palatine ,library1 until the taking of ,rome by the ,french in #agie4 ,the rarest of the works were sent to ,paris1 whence they were returned to ,heidelberg in #ahae4 ,the theatrical-looking chteau of ,heidelberg1 which dominates the city and all the river valley round about1 was built1 in its most ancient parts1 by the ,elector ,robert ,i41 in the fourteenth century1 though1 for the most part1 the walls that one gazes upon to-day are much more modern1 having been erected by ,frederick ,,iv4 in the sixteenth century4 ,in #afbb the castle was ravaged by the ,spaniards1 and1 under the reign of ,louis ,,xiv4 of ,france1 it was bombarded by ,turenne and by ,mlac4 ,rebuilt with still greater magnificence1 it was all but destroyed by lightning in #agfd1 since which time it has been practically abandoned and has become one of the most romantically picturesque ruins in ,europe4 ,that portion of the edifice built by ,otto ,henry1 who reigned #aeef-ei1 is quite the most beautiful of all the various parts4 ,it is known as the ,hall of the ,knights1 and its plan and ornamentation is supposedly that of ,michael ,angelo4 ,the famous ,heidelberg ,tun is in one of the great vaulted chambers of the castle4 ,the first of these utilitarian curiosities--,rhine wine matures best in large bodies--was built in #aece1 and held #aeh1hjj bottles4 ,this tun was destroyed in the ,thirty ,years' ,war1 and was replaced by a second which held #bde1agf bottles1 built by one ,meyer1 the cooper of the court4 ,this tun was repaired in #agbh and exists to-day1 but its grandeur is eclipsed by another made in #agea1 during the electorate of ,charles ,theodore1 which has a capacity of #bhd1jjj bottles4 ,mannheim ,the modern-looking city of ,mannheim has little ecclesiastical treasure to interest the student1 although it is a wealthy and important centre4 ,illustration3 ,,heidelberg and ,its ,,castle ,its origin is very remote1 and legend has it that it was the birthplace of a fabulous king of the ,teutons called ,mannus4 ,others have evolved its present nomenclature from a word taken from ,norse mythology meaning the dwelling-place of men4 ,either seems probable enough1 and the reader must take his choice4 ,according to most authorities1 the city first came into being in #gfe1 but remained an insignificant hamlet up to the time of the ,elector ,frederick ,,iv41 who1 in #afjf1 surrounded it with a city wall as a protection to the persecuted ,protestants of the place4 ,he also built the great chteau1 the precursor of the present vast edifice1 which contains1 the guide-books say1 fifteen hundred windows and five hundred rooms2 as if that were its chief claim on one's attention4 ,the present structure was the former residence of the ,electors of the ,palatinate1 and1 though but a couple of hundred years old1 is nevertheless an imposing and interesting edifice in more ways than one4 ,to-day it is given over to collections of various sorts1 ,roman antiquities1 old prints1 and a gallery of paintings which contains some good work of ,teniers and ,wouvermans4 ,the ,market and the ,rathaus are the chief architectural attractions of this beautifully laid-out city1 and its poor1 mean little church of the ,catholic religion is by no means an edifying expression of architectural art4 ,it is practically nothing more than what the ,french would call a pavillon1 and is known as the ,unterpfaar1 the lower parish4 ,on the exterior wall one sees the pagan idea of caryatides carried out with ,christian symbols1 two figures of angels4 ,there is also a mediocre statue representing ,faith1 which it is difficult to accept as good art4 ,in the interior the short1 narrow nave is separated from its aisles by four columns and two pillars on each side4 ,the effect is somewhat that of a swimming bath4 ,it is decidedly unchurchly4 ,there are a series of uninteresting tombs1 and there is a high altar1 gaudily rich with trappings1 which would be a disgrace to a stage-carpenter4 ,there is little or no religious history connected with the city2 but such devotional spirit as existed1 and does exist to-day1 ought to have left a better ,christian memorial than that of the ,unterpfaar4 ,,xiv ,,worms ,this most ancient city was the ,vormatia of the ,romans4 ,it was devastated by ,attila1 and restablished by ,clovis4 ,at the beginning of the seventh century ,brunhilda founded the bishopric1 and ,dagobert established his royal residence here in the years following4 ,afterward ,charlemagne himself made it a resting-place many times1 and held many ,parliaments here4 ,in the tenth century ,worms became a free city of the ,empire1 and in #aabb a ,concordat was entered into between ,pope ,calixtus ,,ii4 and the emperor1 ,henry ,v41 concerning the ecclesiastical affairs of the city4 ,it was in the cathedral of ,worms that the famous ,diet of #aeba was held1 when ,charles ,v4 declared ,luther a heretic1 and banished him from the ,empire1 for which indignity ,luther is said to have remarked3 ,there are at ,worms as many devils as there are tiles on the roof of its cathedral4 ,the city suffered much in the ,thirty ,years' ,war1 and in #afhi was reduced to ashes by the armies of ,louis ,,xiv4 ,the cathedral of ,worms was begun in #iif by ,bishop ,bouchard1 and completed twenty years later by the ,emperor ,henry ,,ii4 ,with its four fine towers and its two noble domes or cupolas1 it ranks as one of the really great monuments of ,christianity in ,germany4 ,to-day1 with its later additions1 it is purely ,romanesque1 though built entirely after #aahe1 when ,gothic was already making great strides elsewhere4 ,even here there is a decided ogival development to be noted in the vaulting of the nave4 ,like the cathedrals at ,mayence and ,bonn1 that at ,worms offers the peculiarity of a double apside4 ,the eastern termination is demi-round in the interior and square outside1 while the westerly apse is polygonal both inside and out4 ,the cathedral was the only structure of note left standing in the city after the memorable siege of #afhi4 ,the outline of this cathedral is most involved1 with its high1 narrow transepts1 its two choirs crowned with cupolas and flanked with four lance-like towers4 ,it is a suggestion1 in a small way1 of the more grandiose cathedral at ,mayence1 but it is by no means so picturesquely situated4 ,the portal of the faade shows some fine sculptures of the fourteenth century4 ,one figure has given rise to much comment on the part of antiquaries and archeologists who have viewed it4 ,it is a female figure mounted on a strange quadruped of most singular form1 and like no manner of beast that ever walked the earth in the flesh4 ,it has been thought to be a symbolical allusion to the ,queen ,brunhilda1 and again of the ,church triumphant4 ,it may be the former1 but hardly the latter1 at least such symbolism is not to be seen elsewhere4 ,the interior is of no special architectural value1 if we except the contrast of the ogival vaulting with the ,romanesque treatment otherwise to be observed4 ,there are numerous tombs and monuments1 the chief being of three princesses of ,burgundy who are buried here4 ,the church of ,st4 ,martin dates from the twelfth century1 and ,notre ,dame from the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries4 ,they are in every way quite as interesting as the cathedral1 though their walls and vaults have been built up anew since the sacking of the city by the ,french in the seventeenth century4 ,the synagogue1 recently restored1 dates1 as to its foundation1 from the eleventh century1 and is one of the most ancient in all ,germany4 ,according to tradition1 a ,jewish colony was established at ,worms #eej years ,b4,c4 ,this may or may not be well authenticated1--the writer does not know1--but no city in ,germany in the middle ages had a colony of ,jews more numerous1 more venerated1 or more ancient4 ,the ,jews of ,germany had three grand ,rabbis1 one at ,prague1 one at ,frankfort1 and the other at ,worms4 ,by the privilege of the ,emperor ,ferdinand1 the ,rabbi of ,worms had precedence over the two others4 ,they believed1 according to a traditionary legend1 that ,worms was a part of the promised land1 and it was said that the ,jews' cemetery at ,worms was made of soil brought from ,jerusalem4 ,the wine-growers of ,worms have given the name ,liebfraumilch to the wine of the neighbourhood1 particularly that which is gathered on the hillside gardens of the ,church of ,our ,lady1 and within the grounds of the ancient convent4 ,near ,worms is the ancient abbey of ,lorsch1 known in the middle ages as ,lauresham and ,lorse4 ,the abbey was founded and dedicated 7#gfg-gd7 in the presence of ,charlemagne1 his wife ,hildegarde1 and his two sons1 ,charles and ,pepin4 ,the churches of ,trves1 of ,metz1 and of ,cologne have1 as we know1 existed from very early times1 and ,maternus1 an early ,bishop of ,cologne1 is said to have been summoned to ,rome in #cac to give his aid in deciding the ,donatist controversy4 ,the oldest of all these ,rhenish church foundations is thought to be that of ,lorsch1 whose bishop1 ,maximilian1 died a martyr's death in the year #bhe4 ,the abbey became very wealthy1 as was but natural under the patronage of such celebrated benefactors2 but it fell a prey to the flames in #ajij1 and1 in spite of immediate restoration1 ,lorsch never recovered its ancient splendour4 ,in #abcb it was incorporated with the archbishopric of ,mayence1 and the former imperial abbey became first1 a priory of the monks of the order of ,citeaux1 and later of the ,premonstentrationists4 ,the fine old twelfth-century church1 rebuilt from that of #aajj1 has to-day become a grange1 though only the ancient choir can be really said to exist4 ,the valuable library of ,lorsch was fortunately saved at the ,thirty ,years' ,war1 and1 when the church was devastated by the ,spaniards1 was transported to ,heidelberg4 ,the monastery at ,lorsch is important as marking the transition between the ,romanesque and ,gothic in a manner not usually associated with the ,rhine4 ,one observes it notably in the porch1 where the lower range of round-headed arcades is surmounted by a colonnade of sloping angular arches1 which are certainly not ,romanesque or classical1 though1 truth to tell1 they resemble the clearly defined ,gothic of ,france but little4 ,to-day the church of ,lorsch presents no remarkable architectural features1 and is simply an attractive and picturesquely environed building containing a few monuments worthy of note4 ,in olden times the town was protected by a strong chteau1 constructed in #acdh by the ,archbishop of ,mayence1 but no traces of it are left to-day4 ,,xv ,,frankfort ,there is a legend which connects the foundation of ,frankfort with a saying of ,charlemagne's when he was warring against the ,saxons4 ,having fortunately escaped an attack from a superior force1 by crossing the river ,main during a thick fog1 ,charlemagne thrust his lance into the sand of the river-bank and exclaimed3 ,it is here that ,i will erect a city1 in memory of this fortunate event1 and it shall be known as ',franken ,furth1'--'the ,ford of the ,franks4' ,the city owes its ancient celebrity1 in part1 to the crowning of the emperors1 which1 before ,frankfort became an opulent commercial city1 always took place here according to the laws promulgated in #aaeb and #acef4 ,later the ceremony was transferred to ,aix-la-,chapelle4 ,the first historical mention of the city was in #gid1 when ,charlemagne convoked a ,diet and a council of the ,church4 ,frankfort suffered greatly during the ,thirty ,years' ,war1 in the ,war of ,succession1 and in the ,revolution in #agic4 ,napoleon made the city a grand duchy in favour of the ,prince-,primate ,charles of ,dalberg4 ,of the ancient gateways of the city1 but one remains to-day1 that of ,eschenheim1 a fine monument of characteristically ,german features of the middle ages4 ,it dates from the fourteenth century4 ,one of the principal attractions of ,frankfort for strangers has ever been the ,juden ,gasse1--the street of the ,jews4 ,it dates from #affb4 ,as one enters1 on the left1 at ,no4 #adh1 is the maison paternelle of the celebrated ,rothschilds4 ,the cathedral at ,frankfort is consecrated to ,st4 ,bartholomew4 ,it was begun under the ,carlovingians and was only completed in the fourteenth century4 ,at the extreme western end is a colossal tower which ranks as one of the latest and most notable pure ,gothic works in ,germany 7#adae-aeji74 ,its architect was ,john of ,ettingen1 and it rises to a height of one hundred and sixty-three feet4 ,illustration3 ,,frankfort ,,cathedral ,the faade of the cathedral is entirely lacking in a decorative sense1 and the lateral portal1 on the south1 is much encumbered by surrounding structures1 though one sees peeping out here and there evidences of a series of finely sculptured figures4 ,above the entrance to the cloister is an equestrian statue of ,st4 ,bartholomew1 a masterwork of sixteenth-century ,german sculpture4 ,the skull of the apostle is preserved in the church proper4 ,the general plan of the church is that of a ,greek cross1 but the termination which holds the choir is of much narrower dimensions than the other three arms4 ,the grand nave offers nothing of remark1 but the side aisle to the right contains a fine ,ecce ,homo in bas-relief1 placed upon the tomb of the ,consul ,hirde1 who died in #aeah4 ,unfortunately the heads of many of the figures1 including that of the ,christ1 are badly scarred and broken4 ,in the right transept are a series of very ancient ,german paintings and a number of escutcheons1 coloured and in high relief1 commemorating benefactors of the church4 ,the walls in the choir are covered with ancient frescoes of the frankly ,german school4 ,they undoubtedly date back to the fifteenth century1 at least4 ,at the right of the choir is the tomb of the ,emperor ,gunther of ,schwarzburg1 who died here in #acdi4 ,above the high altar is a fine tabernacle1--a feature frequently seen in ,german churches1--of silver-gilt4 ,to the left is an ancient iron grille of remarkable workmanship4 ,at the head of the left aisle of the nave is a chapel containing a ,virgin at the ,tomb1 a coloured sculpture of the fifteenth century1 surmounted by a very ornate ,gothic baldaquin4 ,in the left transept is the tomb of a knight of ,sachsenhausen bearing the date of #acga4 ,here1 too1 is a somewhat dismantled and fragmentary astronomical clock of the species best seen at ,strasburg4 ,the ,protestant church of ,st4 ,nicholas is a fine ogival edifice1 which in more recent times was profaned by commercial uses4 ,it has since been restored and its red sandstone fabric is surmounted by a fine spire4 ,the interior shows a remarkably fine ogival choir as its chief feature1 an organ-buffet carried out in the same style1 which is most unusual1 and a charming wooden staircase with an iron railing leading to a tribune at the crossing4 ,all of the accessories are modern1 but the effect is unquestionably good4 ,the church of ,st4 ,leonard dates from the thirteenth century and possesses as its chief exterior features two rather diminutive spires4 ,the ,emperor ,frederick ,,ii4 ceded the site to the city1 for the erection of a church1 at the above mentioned period4 ,the church of ,st4 ,catherine is of the seventeenth century1 and1 like most religious erections of its age1 is in no way remarkable4 ,the exterior1 however1 shows a rather pleasing square tower1 which is surmounted by an octagonal campanile4 ,the interior has some fine modern paintings1 well painted and equally well displayed4 ,the church of ,st4 ,paul was formerly a ,carmelite foundation4 ,it is strictly modern1 and was only completed in #ahcc4 ,its form is rather more pagan than ,christian1 being simply a great oval1 one hundred and thirty odd feet in length by one hundred and eight in width4 ,the interior is surrounded by a fine ,ionic colonnade4 ,in #ahdh ,st4 ,paul's was appropriated to the sessions of the ,german parliament1 to which purpose the structure was well suited4 ,the ,liebfrauenkirche has a fine ,adoration sculptured above its principal portal4 ,it is a good example of ,german sculpture in stone4 ,within the walls is a painting attributed to ,martin ,schoen which merits consideration4 ,illustration ,,xvi ,,mayence ,mayence has been variously called the city of ,gutenberg1 and of the ,minnesingers4 ,the ,romans in ,augustus's time had already fortified it and given it the name of ,magontiacum4 ,near ,mayence is the cenotaph of ,drusus1 where his ashes were interred after the funeral oration by ,augustus1 who came expressly from ,rome into ,gaul for the purpose4 ,mayence as a ,roman colony was a military post of great importance1 and the key to the fertile provinces watered by the ,rhine4 ,an episcopal seat was established here in the third century1 but ,christianity had a hard struggle against wars and internal disorders of many kinds4 ,many times the city has been devastated and rebuilt4 ,in #gah ,bishop ,sigibert surrounded the city by a series of walls1 and between #ige and #ajaa ,archbishop ,willigis built the cathedral and the church of ,st4 ,stephen1 at which time the real ,christianizing of ,mayence may be said to have begun4 ,the venerable old cathedral has many times been battered and bruised1 and fire and bombardment have reduced its original form into somewhat of a hybrid thing1 but it remains to-day the most stupendously imposing and bizarre cathedral of all the ,rhine valley4 ,illustration ,in general its architecture is decidedly not good1 but it is interesting1 and therein lies the chief charm of a great church4 ,during the siege of the ,french the cathedral at ,mayence1 in #agic1 again took fire1 and the western end of the roof of the choir1 the nave1 and the transept all succumbed4 ,for ten years it remained in this state1 until the order for restoration came from the omnific ,bonaparte1 then first consul4 ,in #ahjd the edifice was consecrated anew4 ,in the year #fcf there was held at ,mayence an assembly of the bishops of the ,frankish kingdom convoked by ,dagobert1 then king4 ,among the bishops of ,mayence none had a reputation so popular as that of ,st4 ,boniface1 who had been sent out by ,pope ,gregory ,,iii4 as a missioner to the ,rhine country4 ,boniface had given ,pepin-le-,bref the sacrament at ,soissons in #geb1 upon the fall of the ,merovingian dynasty1 and in return ,king ,pepin gave the bishopric of ,mayence to ,st4 ,boniface4 ,in #hac a numerous council met here1 at the orders of ,charlemagne1 under the presidency of ,hildebold1 ,archbishop of ,cologne and chaplain of the holy palace at ,rome4 ,in the tenth century the church at ,mayence did not fall to the sad state that it did elsewhere4 ,ecclesiastical writers of ,france have always referred to this period as le sicle de plomb1 but at ,mayence it still steadily approached the golden age4 ,mayence was still distinguished by the zeal of its archbishops1 whose good influences were far-reaching4 ,under the episcopate of ,st4 ,boniface and his immediate successors the cathedral of ,mayence was probably a wooden structure1 as were many of the earlier churches of the evangelizing period in ,germany and ,gaul4 ,the work on the medival cathedral was completed by #ajcg1 under ,archbishop ,bardon1 and its consecration took place in presence of the ,emperor ,conrad ,,ii4 ,twelve years after this ceremony1 ,pope ,leo ,,ix4 came to ,mayence and held a famous council1 at which the emperor was present1 accompanied by the principal nobles of the empire4 ,the cathedral fell a prey to the flames in #ajhg1 as well as three other neighbouring churches1 say the older chronicles1 and the ancient structure disappeared almost entirely1 so far as its original outline was concerned4 ,archbishop ,conrad of ,wittelsbach restored the nave inside of three years1 and the monument again took on some of its ancient magnificence4 ,in #aaih ,emperor ,philip of ,suabia1 son of ,frederick ,barbarossa1 was solemnly crowned in this cathedral by the ,archbishop of ,tarentaise1 the ,archbishop of ,mayence being at that time in the ,holy ,land4 ,the twelfth-century work doubtless was erected on the foundations of ,archbishop ,bardon's structure4 ,the restoration of the transept and the western choir followed1 and the work went on more or less intermittently until the middle of the thirteenth century1 when the fabric approached somewhat the appearance that it has to-day4 ,the completed structure was consecrated in #abci1 and1 save the chapels of the late thirteenth and fourteenth centuries1 the body of the edifice has not greatly changed since that time4 ,during the ,thirty ,years' ,war it became practically a ruin1 however1 though its later rebuilding was on the original lines4 ,in #agic the revolution which sprang up in ,france forced its way to the ,rhine1 and1 when ,mayence was besieged1 the roof of the cathedral caught fire and the church itself was pillaged and profaned4 ,for a long time the old cathedral remained abandoned1 as after an invasion of barbarians1 which is about what the revolutionists proved themselves to be4 ,in #ahjc ,napoleon saw fit to order it to be restored1 and in the following year it was returned to its adherents4 ,the ancient metropolis1 however1 lost the distinction which had been given to it in ,roman times1 and the glory first brought upon it by ,st4 ,boniface lapsed when the arch-episcopal see was suppressed4 ,mayence is now merely a bishopric1 a suffragan of ,cologne4 ,in its general plan the cathedral at ,mayence follows the outlines of a ,latin cross1 though its length is scarcely more than double its width4 ,it is most singular in outline and has two choirs1 one at either end1 as is a frequent ,german custom1 and the sky-line is curiously broken by the six towers which pierce the air1 no two at the same elevation4 ,there are three portals which give entrance from various directions4 ,there is yet a fourth entrance from the market-place1 which takes one through a sort of cellar which is not in the least churchly and is decidedly unpleasant4 ,the principal nave is supported by nine squared pillars1 which are hardly beautiful in themselves1 but which are doubtless necessary because of the great weight they have to bear4 ,in the ,gothic choir is a heavy baldaquin in marble1 bearing figures of the twelve apostles4 ,the high altar is directly beneath the cupola1 or lantern1 of the principal tower4 ,it is quite isolated1 and has neither flanking columns nor a baldaquin4 ,on feast-days it is brilliantly set forth with candelabra in a fashion which would be theatrical1 if it were not churchly4 ,illustration3 ,,mayence ,,cathedral ,behind this altar is the space reserved for the clergy1 a somewhat unusual arrangement1 but not a unique one4 ,at the extreme end is the bishop's throne4 ,the general appearance of the interior constructive elements would seem to place the work as a whole well within the thirteenth century1 though the extreme easterly portion is more ancient still4 ,there is very little of pure ,gothic to be noted4 ,mostly the fabric is a reproduction of the ,lombard style1 though much undeniably ,gothic ornament is used4 ,the bays of the nave are singularly narrow and of great height1 almost the reverse of the pure ,italian manner of building which elsewhere made itself strongly felt along the ,rhine4 ,the height of these bays is more than two and a half times the width4 ,the bays of ,german churches1 in general1 have a much greater length than those of ,italy1 and herein is a marked difference between the ,italian and ,german styles in spite of other resemblances4 ,there are in the cathedral numerous paintings of questionable artistic worth and an abundance of coloured glass1 which is condemned as comparatively modern and of no especial interest4 ,the altar of ,st4 ,martin1 with statues of ,sts4 ,martin and ,boniface1 is near the baptistery4 ,there are eight lateral chapels1 out of fifteen in all1 which are bare and without altars1 showing a poverty--whatever may have been the cause--which is deplorable4 ,in the ,bassenheim chapel is a remarkable marble group taken from the church of ,notre ,dame1 a ,gothic edifice destroyed during the siege of #agic4 ,there are numerous and beautiful funeral monuments scattered about the church1 the most celebrated being that which surmounts the tomb of ,frastrada1 the third wife of ,charlemagne1 who died in #gid1 and was originally interred in the church of ,st4 ,alban4 ,the remains were removed to the cathedral when the former church was burned in #aeeb4 ,on the tomb of ,frastrada one may read the following eighth-century inscription3 ,frastradana1 pia ,caroli conjux vocitata1 ,christo dilecta1 jacet hoc sub marmore tecta1 ,anno septingentesimo nonagesimo quarto1 ,quem numerum metro claudere musa negat ,rex pie1 quem gessit ,virgo1 licet hic cinerescit1 ,spiritus hoeres sit patri qu tristia nescit4 ,there are also the tombs of thirty-two archbishops1--a veritable valhalla of churchly fame4 ,mostly these tombs are ordinary enough1 those of ,archbishop ,berthould of ,hennberg and of the doyen of the chapter being alone remarkable4 ,the chapel of ,st4 ,gothard1 a dependency of the cathedral1 was built by ,archbishop ,adelbert ,i4 in #aace-cf4 ,the ancient cloister at ,mayence dates from the mid-thirteenth century4 ,archbishop ,siegfried was responsible for the work which was consecrated in the year #abdc in the presence of the ,emperor ,conrad1 on the occasion of a synod which was being held at ,mayence at that time4 ,the cloister1 as it exists to-day1 is made up in part of this ancient work and in part of a more modern construction1 this latter being the portion which adjoins the church proper4 ,the chapter-house was built at the end of the twelfth century or at the beginning of the thirteenth4 ,it is a square apartment covered with an ogival vaulting which springs from a range of pillars with delicately sculptured foliaged capitals4 ,it is decidedly the architectural gem of this composite edifice4 ,to the north of the cathedral1 in the ,speise-,markt1 is a remarkably fine fountain1 restored1 or perhaps rebuilt1 in the sixteenth century by the ,archbishop of ,mayence4 ,a baldaquin supported by three pillars rises above a well or spring1 and on a stone slab one reads the following inscription in letters of gold3 ,divo ,karolo ,v ,cesare semp ,augus4 post victoria gallicam rege ipso ad ,ticinum superato ac capto triumphante1 fatalique rusticoru per ,germnia 7sic7 cospiratione prostrat1 ,alber4 card4 et archiep4 ,mog4 fonte hanc vetustate dilapsa ad civiu suorum posteritatisque usum restitui curavit anno ,,mdxxvi4 ,the ,meistersingers of ,mayence owed their origin to ,henry ,misnie1 who1 according to some authorities1 was a canon of the ,church1 and1 according to others1 a doctor of theology4 ,he was devoted1 at any rate1 to poetry1 and was1 in the fourteenth century1 founder of the school of the ,master-singers4 ,he dedicated a great part of his songs to the ,virgin1 his ideal of all that was pious and good4 ,later he widened the range of his dedications to include all of the female sex1 and beautiful women in particular4 ,he is known in the history of ,german poetry under the name of ,henry von ,frauenlob4 ,his death caused a universal sorrow among the fair sex of ,mayence1 who gave his funeral such honours as were never before known4 ,the majority of the great procession which conducted his remains to the tomb1 which had been prepared in the cathedral1 were women1 eight of the most beautiful bearing a crown of roses1 lilies1 and myrtle4 ,this is a pretty enough sentiment1 but it seems quite inexplicable to-day4 ,history records that the master-singer's favourite drink was the noble wine of the ,rhingau1 and it is commonly supposed to have inspired many of his beautiful songs4 ,legend steps in and says that the naves of the cathedral were inundated by the libations which went on at this funeral ceremony4 ,a modern white marble monument1 put into place in #ahdb1 and replacing one that had previously disappeared1 stands as a memorial to the sweet singer of the praises of women4 ,,xvii ,,bacharach1 ,,bingen1 ,,and ,,rudesheim ,bacharach is famous for its legends and its wine4 ,with the former is associated the ruins of ,st4 ,werner's ,church1 a fragment of exquisite flamboyant ,gothic1 though built of what looks like a red sandstone4 ,the ,swedes demolished it in the ,thirty ,years' ,war1 but the lantern and the eastern lancet window still remain to suggest its former great beauty4 ,this beautiful chapel was built as a memorial to the child ,werner1 whose body was fabled to have been thrown by the ,jews1 his supposed murderers1 into the ,rhine at ,oberwesel4 ,instead of floating down-stream with the current1 it went up-stream as far as ,bacharach1 where it was recovered4 ,there is at ,bacharach a twelfth-century church in the ,byzantine style1 which is now a ,protestant temple4 ,it is an incongruous affair in spite of the fact that the style is fairly pure of its kind1 so far as the body of the church is concerned4 ,surmounting it is a needle-like spire which rises above the crenelated battlement of its tower in a most fantastic manner4 ,illustration ,the city walls have great ornamental and picturesque qualities1 and were1 in former days1 defended by twelve towers of imposing strength4 ,the evolution of the name of ,bacharach is decidedly non-,christian4 ,it is frankly pagan1 being descended from ,bacchi ara1--the altar of ,bacchus1--which was the name originally given to a rock in the midst of the river1 which1 in varying seasons1 is sometimes covered by the flood1 and again quite dry4 ,when its surface appears to the light of day1 the vineyard owner hails it as a sign of good vintage4 ,in proof of the quality of the wines of ,bacharach1 it is said that ,pope ,pius ,,ii4 used every year to have a great tun of it brought to ,rome for his special use1 and that the ,emperor ,wenceslas granted their freedom to the citizens of ,nuremberg in return for four tuns of the wine of ,bacharach4 ,to-day ,bacharach is1 with ,cologne1 the great wine centre of the ,rhine valley4 ,asmanhausen1 a few miles up the river1 is the central mart for the red wines of the ,rhine4 ,near ,asmanhausen is ,ehrenfels1 where the ,archbishops of ,mayence had a chteau in the thirteenth century4 ,the chteau is still there1 but it is nothing more than a magnificent ruin4 ,illustration3 ,bishop ,hatto's ,mouse ,tower ,opposite ,ehrenfels is ,bingen1 with its ,museturm4 ,the chief sentimental memory of ,bingen is unquestionably the legend of ,bishop ,hatto and his ,mouse ,tower on the ,rhine4 ,the legend of ,hatto1 versified by ,southey1 has stamped the memory of the ,mouse ,tower and its associations so indelibly upon the mind that it overshadows in interest all else in the vicinity4 ',tis the safest place in ,germany2 ,the walls are high1 and the shores are steep1 ,and the stream is strong and the water deep4 ,how the rats came and-- 444whetted their teeth against the stones ,and how they picked the ,bishop's bones-- is an old story with which children have been regaled for generations past4 ,the great white ,mouse ,tower stands to-day on its tiny island in the middle of the waters of the ,rhine1 between ,bingen and ,ehrenfels1 to perpetuate the story1 while its ruined walls look down1 as they always have1 on the steady flow of the ,rhine water1 making its way from the place of its birth in the ,canton of ,grisons to the cold waters of the ,german ocean off the coast of ,holland4 ,rudesheim ,rudesheim1 but a small town of less than three thousand inhabitants1 is noted for its wines and its ruins4 ,its church1 though a fifteenth-century edifice of more than ordinary beauty1--if we except its nondescript spire1--comes decidedly last in the city's list of attractions4 ,the remains of the four chteaux in the neighbourhood are the chief object of the casual tourist4 ,the town is the centre of a vineyard1 the grapes being grown in great profusion near it4 ,the favourable nature of the locality for grape-growing was discovered1 it is said1 by ,charlemagne1 who1 remarking the rapid disappearance of the snow on the slopes about ,rudesheim1 declared his belief that fine wine might be grown there4 ,sending to ,france for some plants1 they were placed in the earth1 and have ever since yielded a grape worthy of their parentage1 a grape still called ,orleans4 ,from this town the tourist may make a pleasant excursion to the ,niederwald1--having first given his attention to the history of ,rudesheim1 once the seat of an imperial court held in the ,nieder ,burg1--and scan its four ancient castles4 ,of these1 one belonged for a time to ,prince ,metternich1 who1 however1 sold it to ,count ,ingelheim1 its present possessor2 another is picturesquely posted at the upper part of the town1 and still retains some curious relics of the ,bromser family1 its old possessors4 ,a tradition still exists1 telling how ,hans ,bromser1 being taken captive in ,jerusalem1 made a vow to ,heaven that if released he would dedicate his only daughter to the service of the ,church4 ,gaining his liberty soon afterward1 he returned to the ,rhine to find the child he had left when he started for the ,crusades grown to womanhood2 and he learned also that1 secure of her father's sanction1 she had betrothed herself to a youthful knight4 ,love and duty well-nigh rent the maiden's heart in twain1 till love conquered1 and she begged her stern parent to relent4 ,this he refused to do1 and threatened her with a father's curse should she marry4 ,despairing1 she threw herself into the ,rhine1 and her body floated down-stream as far as ,bishop ,hatto's ,mouse ,tower1 at ,bingen4 ,this gave rise to another legend1 that when the surface of the waters is troubled it is caused by the uneasy spirit of ,bromser's daughter1 wrestling with the dreadful fate to which she was driven4 ,illustration ,,xviii ,,limburg ,the cathedral of ,limburg-on-,lahn1 not farther from the juncture of the ,lahn and ,rhine than is ,frankfort-on-the-,main1 may well be considered a ,rhine cathedral4 ,the ,lahn is by no means so powerful a stream as is the ,main or the ,neckar2 nor is it either picturesque1 or even important as a waterway4 ,it has this one virtue1 however3 it forms a setting to ,limburg's many-spired cathedral that is truly grand4 ,limburg played a great part in the middle ages1 and its origin goes far back into antiquity4 ,under ,drusus a castellum was erected here1 which was destroyed by the ,franks and the ,alemanni4 ,the counts of the lower ,lahn province were among the most powerful in all ,germany4 ,they gave their city the name of ,roemercastel1 which name1 to some extent1 may be said to live up to to-day4 ,later the ,franks called it ,lintburc1 from the little river ,linther1 which flows into the ,lahn at this point4 ,the cathedral of ,limburg is the most imposing and homogeneous of all the romano-ogival edifices of ,germany4 ,consecrated to ,st4 ,george1 this church dates from the latter years of the twelfth century and the early part of the thirteenth4 ,it was erected by ,count ,henry of ,nassau1 and replaced two more ancient edifices on the same site4 ,without a doubt it is a medival monument which stands supreme in its class1 though its grandeur comes not so much from mere magnitude as it does from the general disposition of its plan1 and the wonderful blending of the transition elements which1 after all is said and done1 in ,germany1 are not elsewhere very pronounced4 ,the seven spires and towers of this cathedral form a wonderful grouping and make a sky-line more broken than that of any other great church in all ,europe4 ,there is a certain symmetry about this outline1 but it is not pyramidal1 after the manner of the cathedral at ,bonn4 ,in short1 it is reminiscent only of itself4 ,illustration3 ,,limburg ,,cathedral ,on the west are a pair of massive towers with conical caps1 which give a faade at once remarkable and distinguished4 ,flanking the north transept are two smaller towers1 and the same arrangement is found just opposite on the south4 ,above rises the great central octagon1 surmounted in turn by a dwindling octagonal spire1 not beautiful in itself with its steeply inclined slate or lead roofing1 but which1 under all atmospheric conditions1 lends a harmony to and is a key-note of the whole structure which is wonderfully effective4 ,the interior plan is conventional and simple enough1 consisting of the usual three naves1 with an easterly apse1 surrounded by an ambulatory and flanking chapel4 ,within1 as well as from the outside1 the effect is one of an ampleness which is not borne out by the actual dimensions1 which fact1 of course1 shows most able design and execution4 ,the elevation of the nave1 choir1 and transepts is divided into four ranges of openings1 such as are seen at ,soissons in the ,isle of ,france1 and1 in a less complete form1 in ,notre ,dame at ,paris4 ,this has always been a daring procedure1 but in this case it has been carried out with success1 and gives the desired effect1--that of ampleness and height4 ,in the clerestory windows are found the rounded arches which mark the link which binds the ,gothic arches elsewhere in the fabric with the earlier ,romanesque style4 ,the vaulting is of the ,gothic order throughout1 with gracefully proportioned shafts and full-flowered capitals4 ,all this preserves the simple elements of early ,gothic in so impressive a way that the observer will quite overlook1 or at least make allowance for1 the row of round-headed windows aloft4 ,the triforium gallery is a charming feature1 and has seldom been found so highly developed outside of an early ,gothic church4 ,in general the feature is ,french1 and this is perhaps the only example outside ,france which is so reminiscent of that variety frequently to be met with in the cathedrals of the ,isle of ,france4 ,the triforium is pierced through to the nave by a series of double narrow arches enclosed within a larger broad-framed arch1 while in the transepts and choir the desired effect is accomplished by tripled arches with the same general scheme of arrangement4 ,with regard to furnishings and accessories1 this great cathedral is singularly complete4 ,there is a highly ornate pulpit in sculptured wood which some will consider the peer of any seen elsewhere4 ,it is decorated further by a series of painted wooden statues of the saints1 ,nicholas1 ,ambrose1 ,augustin1 ,gregory1 and ,jerome4 ,there is a fine custode covering a pyx1 which is surmounted by a fifteenth-century baldaquin1 and a tomb of a former canon1 ornamented in bas-relief4 ,there is also a pair of baptismal fonts1 enormous in size and said to be contemporaneous with the foundation of the cathedral4 ,a tomb of ,daniel of ,mutersbach1 a knight who died in #adge1 is placed in one of the chapels at the crossing1 and near by is a mausoleum to that ,conrad who1 by virtue of a charter given by ,louis in #iji1 founded the church which preceded the present edifice on this site4 ,it bears the following inscription in the barbarous ,latin of the time3 ,,clauditur ,,hoc ,,tumulo ,,per ,,quem ,,nunc ,,servitus ,,isto ,,fit ,,celebris ,,templo1 ,,laus1 ,,virtus1 ,,gloria ,,christo4 ,,xix ,,coblenz ,,and ,,boppart ,coblenz ,it is an open question as to whether the charming little city of ,coblenz is more delightful because of itself1 or because of its proximity to the famous fortress of ,ehrenbreitstein1--the broad stone of honour4 ,here ,ehrenbreitstein with her shatter'd wall ,black with the miner's blast upon her height1 ,yet shows of what she was1 when shell and ball ,rebounding idly on her strength did light4 ,the city occupies a most romantically and historically endowed situation at the junction of the ,moselle and the ,rhine4 ,at ,coblenz the sons of ,charlemagne met to divide their father's empire into ,france1 ,germany1 and ,italy2 there also ,edward ,,iii4 in #acch met the ,emperor ,louis1 and was by him appointed vicar of the empire2 and at ,coblenz the ,french raised a monument to commemorate the subjugation of ,russia4 ,soon after the inscription was finished1 the ,russian commander entered ,coblenz in pursuit of ,napoleon4 ,with memorable and caustic wit he left the inscription as it stood1 just adding1 ,vu et approuv par nous1 ,commandant ,russe de la ,ville de ,coblence1 ,janvier #a;er1 #ahad4 ,here also is the monument to the young and gallant ,general ,marceau1 killed at the battle of ,altenkirchen1 #agif4 ,by ,coblenz1 on a rise of gentle ground1 ,there is a small and simple pyramid1 ,crowning the summit of the verdant mound3 ,beneath its base are hero's ashes hid4 ,the ,moselle1 which joins the ,rhine at ,coblenz1 was1 like the ,rhine itself1 referred to by ,csar4 ,the pleasant valley of the ,moselle--indeed it is one of the pleasantest 7which is a vague term1 but one easily understood by all7 in all ,europe--was celebrated by one of the longer poems of ,ausonius1 who wrote in the fourth century4 ,for those who would translate the original1 his description will not be found inapropos to-day3 ,qua sublimis apex longo super ardua tractu ,et rupes et aprica jugi1 flexusque sinusque ,vitibus adsurgunt naturalique theatro4 ,vines then1 as now1 clothed the slopes of the hills and cliffs which sheltered the deep-cut stream4 ,a ,roman governor of ,gaul once proposed to unite the ,moselle with the ,sane 7as it is to-day1 by means of the ,canal de l',est71 and thus effect a waterway across ,europe from the ,north ,sea to the ,mediterranean4 ,the church of ,st4 ,castor stands on the spot of the famous conference between the sons of ,charlemagne4 ,it is one of the most ancient of the ,rhine churches1 and was founded by ,louis the ,pious in #hcf4 ,of this early church but little remains to-day except some distinct features to be noted in the choir4 ,the four towers form a remarkable outline1 and two of them1 at least as to their lower ranges1 are undoubtedly of the eleventh century4 ,in this church are a series of remarkable decorations1 one on the wall above the spring of the nave arches1 another above the entrance of the choir aisle1 and yet another in the semicircular roofing of the apse4 ,it may be a question as to how far such decorations are in really good taste1 but they certainly lend a warmth and brilliancy to an edifice that might otherwise be cold and unfeeling4 ,many are the historic incidents connected with this venerable building4 ,the notification of the sons of ,louis the ,pious took place in #hgj2 the reconciliation of ,henri ,,iv4 of ,germany with his sons occurred in #aaje2 ,st4 ,bernard preached the ,crusades here before a vast congregation1 recruiting for the army for the ,east over one thousand citizens of ,coblenz alone4 ,near the church of ,st4 ,castor is the house of the ,teutonic ,order1 of fine ,gothic design1 but to-day turned into a military magazine4 ,on a hill overlooking the city was the famous ,chartreuse convent1 the ruins of which are now swallowed up by ,forts ,constantine and ,alexander4 ,the bridge which crosses the ,moselle at this point is in itself a wonderful old relic4 ,it spans the river on fourteen arches1 and dates from #acdd1 save that its watch-tower was built at a later day4 ,the bridge of boats which crosses the ,rhine1 on thirty-six pontoons1 partakes of the same characteristics as its brother at ,mayence1 though by no means is it so celebrated4 ,illustration3 ,,coblenz and ,its ,,bridge ,above ,coblenz the ,rhine narrows considerably1 and the mountains and hilltops draw in until one's progress1 by water1 is almost as if it were through a caon4 ,niederlahnstein has a fine ruined church in ,st4 ,john's1 whence it is but a short distance to ,boppart4 ,boppart ,boppart was the ancient ,bandobriga of the ,romans1 and1 like many another place along the ,rhine1 is closely linked with the memory of ,drusus4 ,boppart was made an imperial city1 and many ,diets were held within its walls4 ,the ,hauptkirche1 with its twin-jointed spires1 was built about the year #abjj4 ,it is thoroughly ,romanesque1 if we except the spires which are linked together by a sort of galleried vestibule1 after a manner that is neither ,romanesque nor anything else4 ,the inside galleries over the aisles 7mnnerchre7 are interesting1 though by no means a unique feature in ,rhine churches4 ,there is a queer intermixture of pointed and round-headed arches in both the nave and choir1 but nothing to indicate that it was anything but a ,romanesque influence that inspired the builders of this not very appealing church4 ,the vestibule which joins the spires1 and the most unusual groining of the vaulting of the body of the church1 are two features which the expert will linger over and marvel at1 but they have not much interest for the lay observer who will prefer to stroll along the river-bank and pick out charming vistas for his camera4 ,the convent of ,marienburg1 which rises high on the hillside back of the town1 has an ancient history and was a vast foundation to which references are continually met with in history4 ,to-day it is a hydropathic establishment for semi-invalids and devotees of bridge and tea parties4 ,the ,carmelite church contains some richly carved sixteenth-century monuments1 now somewhat mutilated1 but very beautiful4 ,the ,templehof perpetuates the fact that it was the ,knights ,templars of ,boppart who first mounted the breach at the storming of ,ptolemais in the third crusade4 ,this completes the list of ,boppart's ecclesiastical monuments4 ,illustration3 ,,general ,,view of ,,boppart ,in the fourteenth century the town was a free imperial city2 but1 following upon political dissension with its neighbours1 it was returned to the guardianship of the ,archbishop of ,trves4 ,previously it would appear that the inhabitants had not been very religious1 but the archbishop was able to induce them to build him a chteau here as a place of temporary residence2 the first service1 says the chronicle of the time1 which we have rendered our gracious master4 ,illustration ,,xx ,,laach ,,and ,,stolzenfels ,laach ,back of ,coblenz is the charming little lake of ,laach1 at the other end of which is the picturesque but deserted abbey of ,laach1 one of the most celebrated1 architecturally and historically1 of all the religious edifices along the ,rhine4 ,once a ,benedictine convent1 it was pillaged and its inmates dispersed during the overflow of the ,french ,revolution1 and is now naught but a ruin1 though in many respects a grandly preserved one4 ,the abbey was founded in #ajic by ,henry ,,ii4 of ,laach1 ,count ,palatine of ,lower ,lorraine1 and the first ,count ,palatine of the ,rhine4 ,its magnificent church1 built in the most acceptable ,gothic1 contains the remains of its founder and many nobles4 ,the monks of the abbey were1 in the middle ages1 greatly celebrated for their knowledge of the sciences and their hospitality4 ,their library was richly stored with bibliographical treasures1 and they possessed a fine collection of paintings4 ,to-day the abbey and its dependencies is but a shadow of its former self2 its library and its picture-gallery have disappeared1 and1 early in the nineteenth century1 the establishment was sold for a price so small that it would be a sacrilege to mention it4 ,illustration3 ,,abbey of ,,laach in the ,olden ,time ,stolzenfels ,the mention of the castle of ,stolzenfels hardly suggests anything churchly or devout1 though those who know the history of this most picturesque of all ,rhine castles 7restored though it be7 know also that it was an early foundation of ,archbishop ,arnold of ,trves in the thirteenth century1 and was1 during the century following1 the residence of his successors4 ,placed high upon its proud rock1 the restored fabric to-day wonderfully resembles the castled-crag of one's imagination4 ,archbishop ,werner of ,strasburg also made it his residence in turn1 and later the ,english princess betrothed to the ,emperor ,frederick ,,ii4 of the ,hohenstaufen dynasty was entertained there4 ,the castle was nearly destroyed by the ,french in #afhh1 and in #ahbe the ruin was made over to the then prince royal1 afterward ,king of ,prussia4 ,within the reconstructed walls1 topped with a series of crenelated battlements1 after the true medival manner1 one finds an ample courtyard1 from which lead the entrances to the various parts of the vast fortress4 ,innumerable apartments open out one from the other1 all forming a great museum filled with all manner of curios and relics4 ,in a corner of one great room was long kept 7they may or may not be there yet2 the writer does not know7 the ,austrian and ,swiss standards taken in the ,thirty ,years' ,war4 ,illustration3 ,,stolzenfels ,there was also a cabinet containing the sabre of ,murat1 taken at ,waterloo2 the sabres of ,blucher1 of ,poniatowski1 and ,sobieski2 and the swords of the ,duc d',albe and ,de ,tilly2 and1 incongruously enough1 a knife and fork said to have belonged to ,andreas ,hofer1 the hero of the ,tyrol4 ,in the chamber of the king is a magnificent piece of ecclesiastical furniture in the form of a processional cross said to date from the eighth century4 ,the fine ,gothic chapel is decidedly the gem of the whole fabric and its accessories1 and1 though only finished in its completeness1 during the present day1 it is a master copy of the best style of the ,gothic era4 ,illustration ,,xxi ,,andernach ,,and ,,sinzig ,andernach ,andernach is one of the oldest cities in the ,rhine valley1 and grew up out of one of ,drusus's camps1 which was built here when the town was known as ,antonacum4 ,this was its early history1 as given by ,ammien ,marcellin2 and a later authority mentions it as the second city of the electorate of ,trves 7,die ,andre ,darnach74 ,in the records of ,drusus's time1 there is a reference to a chteau here1 which was the fiftieth he had built upon the banks of the ,rhine4 ,the kings of ,austrasia had their palace here as well1 so the place became a political and strategic city of very nearly the first rank4 ,in the middle ages ,andernach shone brilliantly among the centres of commerce in the ,rhine valley4 ,charles ,v4 was responsible for a battle between the inhabitants of ,linz and those of ,rhieneck and ,andernach1 in which nearly all the latter were massacred4 ,to soften any hard feeling that might still exist1 a sermon was always preached1 up to the last century1 in the market-place1 on ,st4 ,bartholomew's ,day1 urging the people to forgive their enemies4 ,the records tell1 however1 that on one occasion an unfortunate inhabitant of ,linz was discovered in ,andernach1 and that he was forthwith put to death in most unchristianlike fashion4 ,the ,gate of ,coblenz at ,andernach is generally regarded as an ancient ,roman work1 though not of the monumental order usual in works of its kind4 ,the present fortifications date from the fifteenth century1 as does the picturesque watch-tower by the waterside4 ,with ,andernach is identified the tradition of a ,count ,palatine1 who1 returning from the ,holy ,wars1 was persuaded by a false friend that his lady had proved faithless2 and1 without listening to excuse1 drove her forth to the woods4 ,in the forest she found shelter with her youthful son1 lodging in caves and living on fruits and herbs for many years4 ,one day her husband1 having lost his companions in the chase1 came by accident upon her place of concealment4 ,the wife of his bosom1 carefully nurtured in her youth1 but now living unattended in the wilds1 and his son1 now grown into a fine youth1 excited his pity4 ,listening to the truth1 he took home the innocent victims of perfidy1 and retaliated upon the traducer by hanging him from the highest tower of his castle4 ,after her death1 the countess became ,st4 ,genofeva1 and is the patroness of the parish church of ,st4 ,genevieve1 which is a lofty structure with four towers which rise high above the surrounding buildings in a fashion which would be truly imposing were the church less overornamented in all its parts4 ,illustration3 ,,general ,,view of ,,andernach ,the actual foundation of the church dates from ,carlovingian times1 and a tenth-century church is visibly incorporated into the present fabric1 but in the main the present structure is of the thirteenth century4 ,the faade1 as is the case with most of the ,romano-,byzantine churches on the ,rhine1 is flanked by two fine towers1 showing some slight traces of the incoming ogival style4 ,flanking the apside are two other towers1 somewhat heavier and thoroughly ,romanesque in motive4 ,the southern doorway is surrounded by a series of remarkably elaborate and excellent sculptures1 showing delicate foliage1 birds1 and human figures disposed after the best manner of the ,romanesque4 ,the northern doorway is decorated in a similar manner1 with an elaborate grouping of two angels and the paschal lamb in the tympanum4 ,to the right of this portal is a curious coloured bas-relief set in the wall4 ,it represents the death of the ,virgin1 and dates from the early sixteenth century4 ,the interior is divided into three naves by two ranges of pillars1 square and very short4 ,the arcades between the aisles and the nave are rounded1 but the vaulting is ogival4 ,the second range of pillars forms an arcade quite similar to the lower one1 but the pillars are of black marble4 ,a modern balustrade1 which has been added1 is frightful in its contrast with the more ancient constructive details4 ,above all are six windows on a side1 which in plan and proportions resemble those of the side aisles4 ,the choir is in effect a cul-de-four1 and is lighted by five windows placed rather high up4 ,below are a series of niches1 in which are placed modern statues1 about as bad as can be imagined1 even in these degenerate architectural times4 ,the gallery behind the second tier of columns is known as the mannshaus1 being intended for the male portion of the congregation1 the women sitting below4 ,the pulpit came from the old abbey of ,laach4 ,on the left of the grand nave is the tomb of a knight of ,lahnstein1 who died in #aeda4 ,there is another legend connected with ,andernach which may well be recounted here4 ,one day1 during the minority of the ,emperor ,henry ,,iv41 the tutors of the prince1 the proud ,archbishop ,annon of ,cologne and the ,palatine1 ,henry the ,furious1 held a meeting with certain other seigneurs at ,andernach4 ,the same day the inhabitants of ,gls1 a village near ,coblenz1 lodged a complaint before the ,palatine concerning the exactions of the provost of their village4 ,this last1 himself1 followed the deputies1 magnificently clothed and mounted upon a richly caparisoned horse1 counting upon his presence to counteract the impression they might make4 ,among the collection of wild beasts which had been gathered together for the amusement of the princes was a ferocious bear4 ,when the provost passed near him1 the animal sprang upon him and tore him to pieces1 whereupon it was supposed that the venerable archbishop had exercised a divine power1 and delivered up the oppressor to the fury of a wild beast4 ,like most of the ,rhine legends1 it is astonishingly simple in plot1 and likewise has a religious turn to it1 which shows the great respect of the ancient people of these regions toward their creed4 ,sinzig ,between ,andernach and ,bonn is the tiny city of ,sinzig1 famous for two things1--its charmingly disposed parish church and the wines of ,assmanhaus4 ,the town was the ancient ,sentiacum of the ,romans1 constructed in all probability by ,sentius1 one of the generals of ,augustus4 ,the church at ,sinzig1 in company with ,st4 ,quirinus at ,neuss1 has some of the best medival glass in ,germany4 ,this small1 but typically ,rhenish1 parish church has also a series of polychromatic decorations which completely cover its available wall space4 ,there is a vividness about them which may be pleasing to some1 but which will strike many as being distinctly unchurchly4 ,illustration3 ,sinzig ,as a ,christian edifice1 the church at ,sinzig1 with its central tower and spire1 is only remarkable as typifying the style of ,romano-ogival architecture which developed so broadly in the ,rhine valley at the expense of the purer ,gothic4 ,,xxii ,,tr,,ves ,southwesterly from ,coblenz1 between the ,rhine and ,metz1 is ,trves1 known by the ,germans as ,trier4 ,situated at the southern end of a charming valley1 which more or less closely follows the banks of the ,moselle1 it has the appearance of being a vast park with innumerable houses and edifices scattered here and there through the foliage4 ,the city contains many churches1 of which the cathedral of ,st4 ,pierre et ,ste4 ,hlne is the chief4 ,at one time the ,augusta ,trevirorum of the ,romans was the richest1 the most fortunate1 the most glorious1 and the most eminent of all the cities north of the ,alps1 said an enthusiastic local historian4 ,the claim may be disputed by another whose civic pride lies elsewhere1 but all know that ,trves1 as the flourishing capital of the ,gaulois belges1 actually rivalled ,rome itself4 ,augustus established a ,roman colony here with its own ,senate1 and many of the ,roman emperors of the long line which followed made it their residence during their sojourn in the north4 ,from the ,augusta ,trevirorum of the ,romans1 the city became in time1 under the later ,empire1 ,treviri1 from which the present nomenclature of ,trves and ,trier comes4 ,it was one of the sixty great towns which were taken from the ,romans by the ,franks and the ,alemanni4 ,the ,roman bridge over the ,moselle1 built probably by ,agrippa1 existed until the wars of ,louis ,,xiv41 in #affi1 when it was blown up2 and all that now remains of the original work are the foundations of the piers1 which were built upon anew in the eighteenth century4 ,as a bishopric1 and later as an archbishopric1 the see is the most ancient in ,germany1 having been founded in #cbg by the ,empress ,hlne4 ,in the twelfth century it became an archbishopric and an electorate1 but during the fourteenth century1 because of continual struggles between the municipality and the ,church1 the archbishops removed to ,coblenz4 ,in the cathedral rests the ,holy ,coat of ,trves1 one of the most sacred relics of the ,saviour extant1 and supposedly the veritable garment worn by him at the crucifixion1--the seamless garment for which the soldiers cast lots 7,john xix4 #bc1 #bd74 ,when exposed to public view1 which ceremony used to take place only once in thirty years1 the holy robe is placed upon the high altar1 which has previously been dressed for the occasion4 ,the altar is approached by many steps on each side1 and there are several steps at intervals in the aisles1 so that the appearance of the long line of pilgrims on their way down the side aisles and up to the altar is most picturesque4 ,as many as twenty thousand pilgrims are said to have paid their devotions to this relic in a single day4 ,they come in processions of hundreds1 and sometimes thousands2 and are of all classes1 but mostly peasants4 ,the lame1 the blind1 and the sick are included in their ranks1 and it is noticeable that the majority are women4 ,they are constantly arriving1 pouring in at several gates of the city in an almost continual stream1 accompanied by priests1 banners1 and crosses1 and alternately singing and praying4 ,there are many of them heavily laden1 their packs on their backs1 their bright brass pans1 pitchers1 and kettles of all shapes in their hands1 or slung on their arms1 while their fingers are busily employed with their beads4 ,wayworn and footsore1 fatigued and hungry1 they yet pursue their toilsome march1 intent upon the attainment of the one object of their pilgrimage4 ,it is curious and picturesque to see their long lines of processions in the open country1 wending their slow way over the hills1 and to hear their hymns1 mellowed by distance into a pleasant sound across the broad ,rhine4 ,from ,germany1 ,belgium1 ,holland1 ,france1 ,hungary1 and even ,switzerland and ,italy they come1 and during the whole of their journeys the pilgrims sing and pray almost continually4 ,the accomplishment of their pilgrimages entitles them1 by payment of a small offering1 to certain absolutions and indulgences4 ,the pure-minded peasant girl seeks remission of sins1 the foodless peasant a liberty to eat what the expenses of this pilgrimage will perhaps deprive him of the means of obtaining4 ,the city is literally packed with pilgrims1 and the scene in the market-place at nightfall is in the highest degree interesting and picturesque4 ,the ,holy ,coat of ,trves is a simple tunic1 apparently of linen or cotton1 of a fabric similar to the closely woven mummy-cloth of the ,egyptians4 ,undoubtedly it is of great antiquity1 which many sacred reliques may or may not be1 judging from their appearances4 ,in appearance it is precisely the same as is that worn by the modern ,arab4 ,this form of tunic1 then1 has come down from the ages with but little change in the fashions1 and seems to be worn by all classes in the ,east4 ,in colour the relic may originally have been blue1 though now of course it is much faded2 in fact1 is a rusty brown4 ,the history of this holy robe1 according to a ,professor ,marx1 who wrote an account of it which had the approval of the ,archbishop of ,trves1 is authenticated as far back as #aaeg by written testimony1 it having been mentioned as then existing in the cathedral of ,trves by ,frederick ,i4 in a letter addressed to ,hillen1 ,archbishop of ,trves in that year4 ,its earliest history depends wholly on tradition1 which says that it was obtained by the ,empress ,hlne in the year #cbf1 while in the ,holy ,land1 whither she went for the express purpose of obtaining relics of our ,saviour and his followers2 that she gave it to the see of ,trves1 and that it was deposited in the cathedral of that city2 that it was afterward lost1 having been hidden in disturbed times within the walls of the cathedral1 and rediscovered under the ,archbishop ,john ,i41 in #aaif2 that it was again hidden for the same reason1 brought to light1 and exposed to the wondering multitude in #aeab1 on the occasion of the famous ,diet of ,trves1 under the ,emperor ,maximilian4 ,since this last epoch1 says the author of the work already quoted1 the history of the ,holy ,robe has been often discussed1 written1 and sung1 because it has been often publicly exposed1 and at short intervals1 whenever political troubles have not prevented4 ,at ,trves is an ancient tomb to ,cardinal ,ivo1 with heavily sculptured capitals surmounting four small columns1 whose pedestals are crouching lions4 ,but for the crudity of the sculpture1 and the weird beasts at its base1 one might almost think the tomb a ,renaissance work4 ,the cardinal died in #aadb1 and the work is unquestionably of the ,romanesque period4 ,it is reminiscent1 moreover1 of the southern portal of the ,cathedral of ,notre ,dame of ,embrun in the south of ,france2 indeed1 a drawing of one might well pass for the other were it not labelled1 though to be sure there is a distinct difference in detail4 ,among the treasures of ,trves is a censer1 one of the most elaborate ever devised4 ,it is in the form of an ample bowl1 with its cover worked in silver in the form of a church on the lines of a ,greek cross4 ,the device is most unusual1 but rather clumsily ornate4 ,there are two curious statues in the portal of ,notre ,dame2 one representing the ,church and the other the synagogue2 the one with a clear1 straightforward look in her eyes1 the other blindfolded and with the crown falling from her head4 ,the symbol is frequently met with1 but the method of indicating the opposition of the new religious law to that of the old is1 in these life-size statues1 at ,trves1 perhaps unique4 ,the figures are somewhat mutilated1 each lacking the arms1 but in other respects they stand as originally conceived4 ,the cathedral of ,st4 ,pierre et ,ste4 ,hlne is situated in the most elevated portion of the city1 and1 like the cathedral at ,bonn1 above ,cologne1 presents that curious pyramidal effect so often remarked in ,rhenish churches4 ,there is no very great beauty in the outlines of this church1 which is a curious jumble of towers and turrets2 but there are some very good architectural details1 quite worthy of a more splendid edifice4 ,ste4 ,hlne1 the mother of ,constantine1 herself placed the first stone in the easterly portion of the present church1 a fact which was only discovered in the seventeenth century1 when the foundations were being repaired4 ,it is supposed originally to have been a part of the palace of the ,empress ,hlne1 afterward converted into a house of ,god4 ,illustration3 ,,tr,,ves ,,cathedral ,one notes in the interior a remarkably beautiful series of ,corinthian columns with elaborately carved capitals of the eleventh century4 ,in later years these have been flanked by supporting pillars which detract exceedingly from the beauty of the earlier forms4 ,in parts the edifice is frankly ,french ,gothic1 ,byzantine1 and what we know elsewhere as ,norman1--a species of the ,romanesque4 ,in #agag the church suffered considerably by fire1 but it was repaired forthwith1 and to-day gives the effect of a fairly well cared for building of three naves and a double choir4 ,there are sixteen altars1 some of which are modern1 and two organs1 cased as usual in hideous mahogany4 ,illustration3 ,,pulpit ,,tr,,ves ,the high altar and the pulpit are excellently sculptured1 and there are some notable monuments to former archbishops and electors4 ,beneath the church are vast subterranean passages1 and a great vault where repose the ancient regents of the province4 ,architecturally1 ,trves's other remarkable church 7,notre ,dame7 quite rivals the cathedral itself in interest4 ,it is one of the best examples of ,german medival architecture extant4 ,in the year #abbg when ,st4 ,gron's at ,cologne1 one of the earliest examples of ogival vaulting in ,germany1 was just finished1 there was commenced the church of ,notre ,dame at ,trves4 ,it was the first church edifice in ,germany to consistently carry out the ,gothic motive from the foundation stones upward4 ,for fifty years the well-defined ,gothic had been knocking at the gateway which led from ,france into ,germany1 and at last it was to enter at a period when the cathedrals at ,soissons and ,laon had already established themselves as well-nigh perfect examples of the new style4 ,the first foundation stone was laid in #abbg1 and the work was completed in less than twenty years4 ,the general plan is grandiose and it has a central cupola--replacing a tower which was in danger of subsiding--held aloft by twelve hardy columns1 on which are ranged in symmetrical order statues of the apostles4 ,the plan is unusual and resembles no ,gothic structure elsewhere1 hence may be considered as a type standing by itself4 ,the exterior shows little or nothing of the highly developed ,gothic which awaits one when viewing the interior4 ,there are no flying buttresses1 the walls seemingly supporting themselves1 and yet they are not clumsy4 ,the piers of the chapel somewhat perform the functions of buttresses1 and that perhaps makes possible the unusual arrangement4 ,the church of ,st4 ,gangolphe1 on the market-place1 has a singularly beautiful and very lofty tower1 which gives to whoever has the courage to make its rather perilous ascent one of the most charming prospects of the valley of the ,moselle possible to imagine4 ,the chief of ,trves's other churches are3 the church of the ,jesuits1 since ceded to the ,protestants2 ,st4 ,gervais1 which has a tomb to ,bishop ,hontheim1 a most learned man and a great benefactor of ,trves in days gone by2 ,st4 ,antoine2 and ,st4 ,paul4 ,the country around ,trves1 on the ,moselle1--the famous ,trves ,circle1--ranks high as a wine-growing region1 though your true ,german wine-drinker calls all ,moselle wine ,unnosel ,wein4 ,these wines of the ,moselle are1 to be sure1 secondary to those of the vineyards of the ,rhine and the ,main1 but the varieties are very numerous4 ,a ,dutch burgomaster once bought of the ,abbey of ,maximinus--a famous wine-growing establishment as well as a religious community--a variety known as ,gruenhaser1 in #agic1 for eleven hundred and forty-four florins a vat of something less than three hundred gallons4 ,it was known as the nectar of ,moselle1 and made men cheerful1 and did good the next day1 leaving the bosom and head without disorder4 ,such was the old-time monkish estimate and endorsement of its virtues4 ,illustration ,,xxiii ,,bonn ,bonn in the popular mind is noteworthy chiefly for its famous university1 and for being the birthplace of ,beethoven4 ,the city was one of the fifty fortresses built by ,drusus on the ,rhine1 and the only ,rhenish city1 with the exception of ,cologne1 which has kept its ,roman appellation4 ,it is mentioned by ,tacitus both as ,bonna and ,bonensia castra4 ,the cathedral is as famous as the university4 ,it was funded by the mother of ,constantine the ,great1 who1 according to tradition1 consecrated the primitive church here in #cai4 ,really1 it is not a very stupendous pile1 the present cathedral1 but it looks far more imposing than it really is by reason of its massive central tower and steeple4 ,it is one of the most ancient and most remarkable of the cathedrals on the banks of the ,rhine4 ,illustration3 ,,general ,,view of ,,bonn ,the effect of its five towers is that of a great pyramid rising skyward from a broad base4 ,in the main1 it is a construction of the twelfth and thirteenth centuries1 but it is known beyond doubt that the choir and the crypt were built in #aaeg4 ,to-day there are visible no traces of even the foundations of the primitive church4 ,illustration ,there are two polygonal apsides1 more noticeable from without than within4 ,the main portal1 or the most elaborate at least1 is that of the north faade4 ,the interior is not as sombre and sad as is often the case with a very early church4 ,to enter1 one ascends eight steps to the pavement1 when the rather shallow vista of the nave and choir opens out broadly4 ,there are a series of white marble statues representing the birth and baptism of ,christ1 and some paintings of notable merit1 including an ,adoration4 ,in the crypt1 already mentioned1 are the bones of the martyrs1 ,cassius1 ,florentinus1 and ,malusius4 ,the chief interest of the interior1 outside of the constructive elements of the fabric1 centres in a great statue of ,st4 ,hlne in bronze1 which is placed in the middle of the grand nave4 ,it is a fine monument1 and was cast in the seventeenth century as a somewhat tardy recognition of the founder of the church at ,bonn4 ,at the western extremity of the nave is the ,gothic tomb of ,archbishop ,englebert1 and another of ,archbishop ,robert4 ,the choir is somewhat raised above the pavement of the nave1 being placed upon the vaulting of the crypt4 ,the walls of the choir are hung with gilded ,cordovan leather1 which is certainly rich and beautiful1 though it has been criticized as being more suitable to a boudoir than a great church4 ,at the foot of the choir1 to the right1 is a tabernacle1 a feature frequently met with in ,german churches4 ,it is of ,renaissance design and workmanship1 and is ungainly and not in the best of taste4 ,behind the great pillars of the choir are found1 back to back1 two imposing altars1 to which access is had by mounting a dozen more steps1 far above the pavement of the nave4 ,they are most peculiarly disposed1 and are again a ,renaissance interpolation which might well have been omitted4 ,in this dimly lighted cathedral1 as well as in many other churches of ,germany1 you may at times hear that hymn known as ,ratisbon1 the words of which begin3 ,jesus meine ,zuversicht ,lebt1 und ich soll mit ihm leben4 ,there is a legend--or it may be a true tale--connecting these verses with a ,german soldier who died at the fateful battle of ,jena4 ,fleeing from the ,french1 he had fallen into the waters of the ,saale4 ,recovering himself1 he crawled out1 only to find his pursuers on the bank1 their firearms levelled at his head4 ,his first thought was to thank ,god for his safety from the flood1 and1 kneeling1 he played upon his bugle the familiar air to which the hymn1 ,jesus meine ,zuversicht1 is sung4 ,deeply moved1 his pursuers dropped their guns1 but1 just as the last notes of the tune were dying away1 another detachment came up1 and one of its members fired a shot which ended the life of the devout ,prussian4 ,there is heard here also a legend1 of the time of the ,crusades1 concerning the ,siebengebergen1--the ,seven ,mountains1--which lie just back of ,bonn4 ,stimulated by religious fervour1 the overlord of a castle perched upon one of the ,seven ,mountains1 enlisted in the army of the ,crusaders1 and fought gallantly in the very forefront of those who sought to plant the ,cross upon the walls of the ,holy ,city4 ,after a prolonged absence1 he returned to find that a rival had won the love of his lady1 who1 to escape his wrath1 had fled to a convent4 ,the usurper of affections escaped1 but the injured husband met near ,godesberg1 in his old age1 a youth in whom he thought he recognized the likeness of his wife4 ,questioning the boy1 he visited the sin of the mother upon the child1 and slew him on the highroad1 on the spot where the ,hoch ,kreuz now stands1--a monument which tradition says was erected to warn weak wives and faithless friends4 ,drachenfels1 whose fame to ,english ears has mostly been made by ,byron's verses1 lies not far south of ,bonn4 ,byron's peasant girls with deep blue eyes are mostly engaged in husbandry to-day1 instead of poetically and leisurely gathering early flowers4 ,the castled crag of ,drachenfels ,frowns o'er the wide and winding ,rhine1 and is still one of the tourist sights of the ,rhine1 and as such it must be accorded its place4 ,bonn was formerly the residence of the ,electors of ,cologne1 after their removal from that city in #abfh1 at which time it was also the shelter of ,archbishop ,englebert1 who had fled from ,cologne4 ,,xxiv ,,godesberg ,,and ,,rolandseck ,godesberg ,within full view of the ,seven ,mountains1 on the opposite bank of the ,rhine1 is ,godesberg1--a cheerful village with a castle which is a splendid ruin1 say the guide-books4 ,they might go a bit further and recount something of its political and religious history1 although usually they do not1 but rush the tourist up-river to ,coblenz1 giving him only a sort of panoramic view of this portion of the ,rhine4 ,originally a castellum romain1 the cheerful village1 known to the ancients as ,ara ,ubiorum1 came under the control1 in #abaj1 of the ,archbishop ,theodoric of ,cologne1 who built a chapel to ,st4 ,michael on the ancient ruins1 which1 according to tradition1 had endured from the times of ,julian the ,apostate4 ,for many centuries there was a chteau here which served as the country-house of many of the archbishop-electors of the ,empire1 until destroyed by a thunderbolt4 ,in #aeic it was pillaged by the troops of the ,archbishop ,ernest1 and to-day only a great1 lone1 round tower remains intact4 ,for the rest it is a fine ruin and a picturesque one4 ,rolandseck ,but a short distance above ,godesberg is ,rolandseck2 opposite which is the island of ,nonnenwerth1 with which it is associated in a famous legend4 ,the chivalrous ,roland sought the love of some fair being1 whose beauty and whose virtues should deserve and retain the heart of so brave and gallant a young knight4 ,nor did he look about in vain1 for ,hilda1 the daughter of the lord of the ,drachenfels1 was all that dreams had pictured to his youthful fancy as worthy of an ardent soul's devotion1 and soon he was made happy by a confession from the maiden that his passion was returned4 ,lost in a dream of first love1 the knight forgot the world and its struggles1 and1 in the expectation of an early day for his wedding with his mistress1 he lived a life of perfect joy1--now gazing with ,hilda upon the windings of the ,rhine2 now watching her as she stooped gracefully to tend the flowers which peace allowed to flourish under the walls of her father's stronghold4 ,but ,roland lived in times when love was but the bright1 transient episode of a life of war4 ,the laws of chivalry forbade a true knight's neglect of duty1 and1 in the very week in which he was to be wedded1 the summons came for him to take the field4 ,the war was long1 and it was three years before ,roland left the camp4 ,when he reached the home of his mistress1 he received a frightful welcome4 ,the castle was in ruins2 its lord was slain2 and ,hilda1 deceived by reports of ,roland's death1 had taken the veil in the neighbouring convent of ,nonnenwerth6 ,over the bright path of the young knight a dark and lasting shadow was cast4 ,his early hopes were shattered2 the joy of his existence had fled2 his spirit bent beneath the weight of his evil fortune4 ,but his faith and constancy were beyond the control of ,fate4 ,retiring to his castle of ,rolandseck1 he made himself a seat within a window1 from which he could look down upon the island of ,nonnenwerth and the convent that held his beloved ,hilda4 ,whether she heard of his return tradition does not say2 but the rumour of such constancy was perhaps wafted through the nunnery walls4 ,be that as it may1 it is chronicled that1 after ,roland's watch had been for three years prolonged1 he heard one evening the tones of the bell that tolled for a passing soul1 and next day the white figures of the nuns were seen bearing a sister to her last home4 ,it was the funeral of ,hilda4 ,illustration ,the isle of ,nonnenwerth and its convent are still there opposite the grim1 gaunt1 ruined gateway of ,rolandseck1 a brilliant jewel in an antique setting2 and1 while neither the conventual buildings nor the ruined chteau show any unusual architectural features1 they are characteristic of the feudal and religious architecture of the middle ages4 ,architects of to-day do not build with the same simplicity and grace that they did of old1 and these little out-of-the-way gems of architecture are far more satisfying than are similar erections of to-day4 ,,xxv ,,cologne ,,and ,,its ,,cathedral ,no stranger ever yet entered ,cologne without going straight to see its mighty ,gothic cathedral4 ,three things come to him forcibly1--the fact that it was only completed in recent years1 the great and undecided question as to who may have been its architect1 and the ,legend of the ,builder1 as the story is known4 ,there are two legends of the cathedral and its builders which no visitor will ever forget4 ,the ,architect of ,cologne ,mighty was ,archbishop ,conrad de ,hochsteden1 for he was lord over the chief city of the ,rhine1 the city of ,cologne2 but his thoughts were troubled1 and his heart was heavy1 for1 though his churches were rich beyond compare in relics1 yet other towns not half so large or powerful as his had cathedrals whose fame extended over ,europe1 and whose beauty brought pilgrims to their shrines1 profit to the ecclesiastics1 and business to the townspeople4 ,after many sleepless nights1 therefore1 he determined to add to his city the only thing wanting to complete it1 and1 sending for the most famous architect of the time1 he commissioned him to draw the plans for a cathedral of ,cologne4 ,illustration3 ,,general ,,view of ,,cologne ,now the architect was a clever man1 but he was more vain than clever4 ,he had a vague idea of the magnificence which he desired to achieve without a clear conception of how he was to do it1 or without the will to make the necessary sacrifices of labour1 care1 and perseverance4 ,he received the commission with great gladness1 and gloated for some days upon the fame which would be his as the builder of the structure which the archbishop desired2 but when1 after this vision of glory1 he took his crayons to sketch out the design1 he was thrown into the deepest despondency4 ,he drew and drew1 and added1 and erased1 and corrected1 and began again1 but still did not succeed4 ,not a plan could he complete4 ,some were too mean1 others too extravagant1 and others1 when done and examined1 were found to be good1 but not original4 ,efforts of memory instead of imagination1 their points of excellence were but copies of other cathedrals1--a tower from one1 a spire from another1 an aisle from a third1 and an altar from a fourth2 and one after another they were cast aside as imperfect and useless1 until the draughtsman1 more than half-crazed1 felt inclined to end his troubles and perplexities by a plunge into the ,rhine4 ,in this mood of more than half-despair1 he wandered down to the river's edge1 and1 seating himself upon a stone1 began to draw in the sand with a measuring rod1 which served as a walking-stick1 the outlines of various parts of a church4 ,ground-plans1 towers1 finials1 brackets1 windows1 columns1 appeared one after another1 traced by the point of his wand2 but all1 one after another1 were erased as unequal and insufficient for the purpose1 and unworthy to form a part of the design for a cathedral of ,cologne4 ,turning around1 the architect was aware that another person was beside him1 and1 with surprise1 the disappointed draughtsman saw that the stranger also was busily making a design4 ,rapidly on the sand he sketched the details of a most magnificent building1 its towers rising to the clouds1 its long aisles and lofty choir stretching away before the eye of the startled architect1 who mentally confessed that it was indeed a temple worthy of the ,most ,high4 ,the windows were enriched by tracery such as artist never had before conceived1 and the lofty columns reared their tall length toward a roof which seemed to claim kindred with the clouds1 and to equal the firmament in expanse and beauty4 ,but each section of this long-sought plan vanished the moment it was seen1 and1 with a complete conviction of its excellence1 the architect was unable to remember a single line4 ,your sketch is excellent1 said he to the unknown2 it is what ,i have thought and dreamed of1--what ,i have sought for and wished for1 and have not been able to find4 ,give it to me on paper1 and ,i will pay you twenty gold pieces4 ,twenty pieces6 ha6 ha6 twenty gold pieces6 laughed the stranger4 ,look here6 and from a doublet that did not seem big enough to hold half the money1 he drew forth a purse that certainly held a thousand4 ,the night had closed in1 and the architect was desperate4 ,if money cannot tempt you1 fear shall force you2 and1 springing toward the stranger1 he plucked a dagger from his girdle1 and held its point close to the breast of the mysterious draughtsman4 ,in a moment his wrists were pinioned1 as with the grasp of a vise1 and squeezed until he dropped his weapon and shrieked in agony4 ,falling on the sands1 he writhed like an eel upon the fisherman's hook2 but plunged and struggled in vain4 ,when nearly fainting1 he felt himself thrown helpless upon the very brink of the stream4 ,there6 revive1 and be reasonable4 ,learn that gold and steel have no power over me4 ,you want my cathedral1 for it would bring you honour1 fame1 and profit2 and you can have it if you choose4 ,how8--tell me how8 ,by signing this parchment with your blood4 ,avaunt1 fiend6 shrieked the architect2 in the name of the ,saviour ,i bid thee begone4 ,and so saying1 he made the sign of the cross2 and the ,evil ,one 7for it was he7 was forced to vanish before the holy symbol4 ,he had time1 however1 to mutter3 ,you'll come for the plan at midnight to-morrow4 ,the architect staggered home1 half-dead with contending passions1 and muttering3 ,sell my soul1 ,to-morrow at midnight1 ,honour and fame1 and other words which told the struggle going on within his soul4 ,when he reached his lodgings1 he met the only servant he had going out wrapped in her cloak4 ,and where are you going so late8 said her surprised master4 ,to a mass for a soul in purgatory1 was the reply4 ,oh1 horror6 horror6 no mass will avail me4 ,to everlasting torments shall ,i be doomed2 and1 hurrying to his room1 he cast himself down with tears of remorse1 irresolution1 and despair4 ,in this state his old housekeeper discovered him on her return from her holy errand1 and1 her soul being full of charity and kindly religion1 she begged to know what had caused such grief2 and spoke of patience in suffering1 and pardon by repentance4 ,her words fell upon the disordered ear of the architect with a heavenly comfort2 and he told her what had passed4 ,mercy me6 was her exclamation4 ,tempted by the fiend himself6--so strongly1 too6 and1 so saying1 she left the chamber without another word1 and hurried off to her confessor4 ,now the confessor of ,dame ,elfrida was the friend of the abbot1 and the abbot was the constant counsellor of the archbishop1 and so soon as the housekeeper spoke of the wonderful plan1 he told her he would soon see her master1 and went at once to his superior4 ,this dignitary immediately pictured to himself the host of pilgrims that would seek a cathedral built with skill from such wonderful sketches1 and 7hoping himself one day to be archbishop7 he hurried off to the bewildered architect4 ,he found him still in bed1 and listened with surprise to the glowing account of the demon's plan4 ,and would it be equal to all this8 ,it would4 ,could you build it8 ,i could4 ,would not pilgrims come to worship in such a cathedral8 ,by thousands4 ,listen1 my son6 ,go at midnight to the appointed spot2 take this relic with you2 and1 so saying1 the abbot gave him a bone of one of the ,eleven ,thousand ,virgins4 ,agree to the terms for the design you have so long desired1 and when you have got it1 and the ,evil ,one presents the parchment for your signature1 show this sacred bone4 ,after long pondering1 the priest's advice was taken2 and1 in the gloom of night1 the architect hurried tremblingly to the place of meeting4 ,true to his time1 the fiend was there1 and1 with a smile1 complimented the architect on his punctuality4 ,drawing from his doublet two parchments1 he opened one1 on which was traced the outline of the cathedral1 and then another written in some mysterious character1 and having a space left for a signature4 ,let me examine what ,i am to pay so dearly for4 ,most certainly1 said the demon1 with a smile1 and a bow that would have done honour to the court of the emperor4 ,pressing it with one hand to his breast1 the architect with the other held up the holy bone1 and exclaimed3 ,avaunt1 fiend6 ,in the name of the ,father1 and the ,son1 and the ,holy ,virgins of ,cologne1 ,i hold thee1 ,satan1 in defiance2 and he described the sign of the cross directly against the devil's face4 ,in an instant the smile and the graceful civility were gone4 ,with a hideous grin1 ,satan approached the sacred miracle as though he would have strangled the possessor2 and1 yelling with a sound that woke half the sleepers in ,cologne1 he skipped round and round the architect4 ,still1 however1 the plan was held tightly with one hand1 and the relic held forward like a swordsman's rapier with the other4 ,as the fiend turned1 so turned the architect2 until1 bethinking himself that another prayer would help him1 he called loudly on ,st4 ,ursula4 ,the demon could keep up the fight no longer2 the leader of the ,eleven ,thousand ,virgins was too much for him4 ,none but a confessor could have told you how to cheat me1 he shrieked in a most terrible voice2 but ,i will be revenged4 ,you have a more wonderful and perfect design than ever entered the brain of man4 ,you want fame1--the priest wants a church and pilgrims4 ,listen6 ,that cathedral shall never be finished1 and your name shall be forgotten6 ,as the dreadful words broke upon the architect's ear1 the cloak of the ,tempter stretched out into huge black wings1 which flapped over the spot like two dark thunderclouds1 and with such violence that the winds were raised from their slumber1 and a storm rose upon the waters of the ,rhine4 ,hurrying homewards1 the relic raised at arm's length over his head1 the frightened man reached the abbot's house in safety4 ,but the ominous sentence still rang in his ears1--,unfinished and forgotten4 ,days1 months1 years passed by1 and the cathedral1 commenced with vigour1 was growing into form4 ,the architect had long before determined that an inscription should be engraved upon a plate of brass shaped like a cross1 and be fastened upon the front of the first tower that reached a good elevation4 ,his vanity already anticipated a triumph over the ,fiend whom he had defrauded4 ,he was author of a building which the world could not equal1 and1 in the pride of his heart1 defied all evil chances to deprive him of fame4 ,going to the top of the building to see where his name should be placed1 he looked over the edge of the building to decide if it was lofty enough to deserve the honour of the inscription1 when the workmen were aware of a black cloud which suddenly enveloped them1 and burst in thunder and hail4 ,looking around1 when the cloud had passed away1 their master was gone6 and one of them declared that amidst the noise of the explosion he heard a wail of agony which seemed to say1 ,unfinished and forgotten4 ,when they descended the tower1 the body of the architect lay crushed upon the pavement4 ,the traveller who beholds the building knows of the difficulties which beset its completion1 and thousands have since then sought in vain to learn the name of ,the ,architect of ,cologne1 although of late years--though with some doubt it is stated--his name and fame appear to have been established4 ,the ,pfaffen ,thor ,when ,archbishop ,conrad of ,hochsteden1 the founder of the cathedral1 had been gathered to his fathers1 ,engelbrecht of ,falkenberg reigned over ,cologne in his stead2 and a fearful tyrant he became4 ,as in the case of the spiritual lords who ruled over ,lige1 the crozier of the archbishop became a rod of iron to the citizens1 until at length they were goaded to open rebellion4 ,in their contests for liberty1 they were led by ,hermann ,grynn1 a townsman who had put aside the peaceful pursuit of his trade to do battle in the good cause of his native city1 and to maintain the privileges which his fathers had purchased1 not only with their gold1 but with their blood4 ,after numerous contests between the burghers and their oppressors1 the cause of the many was triumphant1 and the archbishop was glad to agree to terms which he before had spurned4 ,but the truce he sought was hollow and unfaithful1 and he was heard to say that1 if ,hermann ,grynn were removed1 he would be able to take away the privileges he had surrendered to the townsmen4 ,this treacherous speech was greedily received by two priests1 who determined to advance their own welfare by the downfall of the citizen-patriot4 ,making the acquaintance of ,hermann1 whose honest nature suspected no treachery1 they wormed themselves into his confidence1 and at a fitting opportunity invited him to the cathedral to see its hidden beauties and great store of riches4 ,leading him from chapel to cloister1 and through chamber after chamber1 they came at length to a door which they said contained the richest sight of all2 and one of them1 unlocking the door1 invited the citizen to enter4 ,no sooner had he crossed the threshold than the thick portal was closed suddenly upon him1 and1 at the same moment1 he heard the roar of some wild animal1 and saw fixed upon him two fierce eyes gleaming with hunger and savage rage4 ,hermann ,grynn was a man for emergencies4 ,rapidly twisting his cloak around his left arm1 and drawing his short sword1 he prepared for the attack2 nor had he long to wait4 ,with a growl of triumph1 a huge animal sprang upon him with open jaws2 but with admirable coolness the hero received his assailant upon the guarded arm1 and1 whilst the brute ground its teeth into the cloak1 he thrust his sword into its heart4 ,searching around the chamber1 he was aware of a window concealed by a shutter1 and1 opening this1 he looked forth into the streets1 where a great crowd was collected around a priest1 who went along telling some tale which seemed to move the people to deep grief4 ,as the throng drew nearer1 he listened eagerly1 and heard with surprise how the good burgess ,hermann ,grynn1 the friend of the people1 and the well-beloved ally of the ,church1 had without advice sought a chamber where a lion was in durance1 and had fallen a sacrifice to his unhappy curiosity4 ,burning with rage and a determination to expose the treachery of the priests1 he waited till the crowd came beneath the window from which he looked2 and then1 dashing the glass into a thousand pieces1 he attracted attention to the spot1 and1 leaning half out of the opening1 displayed his well-known cap in one hand and his bloody sword in the other4 ,he was almost too high to be heard1 but the faint echo of his war-cry was enough to convince the people of his identity1 and with one voice they shouted3 ,to the rescue6 ,forcing their way into the cathedral1 they quickly released their leader1 and1 learning from him the story of cruel treachery1 the two priests were ferreted from their hiding-places1 and hanged by the neck in the room over the body of the dead lion4 ,to this day the portal they slammed on ,hermann ,grynn is known as the ,pfaffen ,thor1--the priest's door1--whilst over the gate of the venerable town hall of ,cologne may yet be seen1 graven in stone1 the fight of the citizen-patriot with the hungry lion of the cathedral4 99 99 99 99 99 ,these two legends refer solely to the cathedral4 ,there is1 in addition1 the rather more familiar one of ,st4 ,ursula and the ,eleven ,thousand ,virgins4 ,and1 besides legends1 there is much real symbolism that peeps out wherever one turns4 ,the skulls of the ,three ,kings still grin from under their crowns in the cathedral1 as they did when ,frederick ,barbarossa stormed ,milan and brought back these relics of the three ,magi4 ,beneath the pavement of the cathedral lies buried the heart of ,marie de ,medici1 who1 in her fallen fortunes1 died at ,sternen-,gasse #aj1 in the house where ,peter ,paul ,rubens was born4 ,in a rather roundabout way the name of one great in letters is associated with ,cologne4 ,petrarch came here on his way from ,avignon to ,paris in #acca1 and the superb beginnings of the new cathedral inspired him with the most profound admiration4 ,in a letter which he addressed to his friend and protector1 ,jean ,colonna1 he said3 ,i have seen in this city the most beautiful temple2 yet incomplete1 but which is truly entitled to rank as a supreme work4 ,it was a fortunate day for the history of the church at ,cologne when the ,evangelist first preached the gospel in the city of ,colonia ,agrippina4 ,in those days the primitive church sheltered itself modestly under the shadow of the ,roman fortress1 whereas to-day the great cathedral rises1 stately and proud1 high above the fortification of the warlike ,teuton--if he really be warlike1 as the statesmen of other nations proclaim4 ,when ,charlemagne fixed his official residence at ,aix-la-,chapelle1 he placed his imperial palace in the diocese of ,cologne2 the two cities together1 by reason of their power and importance1 standing as a symbol of mightiness which did much to make the great1 unwieldy dominion of the ,carlovingian ,emperor hang together4 ,it has been claimed1 and there certainly seems some justification for it1 that the general plan of the cathedral at ,cologne is similar to that of ,notre ,dame d',amiens2 there is something about the general scale and proportions that makes them quite akin4 ,perhaps this is due to the particularly daring combination of its lines and the general hardiness of its plan and outline4 ,these features are certainly common to both in a far greater degree than are usually found between two such widely separated examples4 ,at any rate1 it is perhaps as safe a conjecture as any1 since the hand that traced the plan of ,cologne is lost in doubtful obscurity1 to consider that there is something more than an imaginary bond between the cathedrals of ,amiens and ,cologne4 ,a resemblance still more to be remarked is the great height of the choir and nave4 ,this is most marked at ,amiens and still more so at ,beauvais4 ,cologne1 as to these dimensions1 ranks between the two4 ,there was once a ,romanesque cathedral at ,cologne1 but a fire made way with it in #abdh4 ,certain facts have come down to us regarding this earlier building1 but they appear decidedly contradictory1 though undoubtedly it was an edifice of the conventional ,rhenish variety4 ,it is supposed that this original cathedral had at least a family resemblance to those at ,mayence1 ,worms1 and ,speyer4 ,these three great ecclesiastical works in the ,rhine valley mark the ,hohenstaufen dynasty as one of the most prolific in ,german church-building4 ,although they are not as beautiful as one pictures the perfect cathedral of his imagination1--at least no more beautiful than many other hybrid structures1--they show an individuality that is peculiarly ,rhenish1 far more so than the present cathedral at ,cologne or any of the smaller churches of the region4 ,after the fire in #abdh a new cathedral was planned as a commensurate shrine in which to shelter the relics of the ,three ,wise ,men of the ,east1 which henceforth were to be known as ,the ,three ,kings of ,cologne4 ,from this period on1 ,cologne began to acquire such wealth and prominence as to mark the era as the ,golden ,age in the civic and ecclesiastical affairs of the city4 ,abandoning the basilica plan entirely1 a great ,gothic church was undertaken4 ,in its way it was to rival those ,gothic masterpieces of ,france4 ,the origin of the plan of the cathedral in fact1 as well as in legend1 is vague4 ,some have considered ,archbishop ,engelbert1 ,count of ,altona and ,berg1 who was murdered in #abbe1 as the author1 but this can hardly have been so1 unless it were conceived before the basilica was burned4 ,assiduous research has been made from time to time in an effort to discover the identity of the actual designer of the present cathedral3 ,archbishops ,engelbert and ,conrad1 ,albertus ,magnus1 ,meister ,gerard1 and others have all had the honour somewhat doubtfully awarded to them and again withdrawn4 ,there is a great painting exhibited at ,frankfort called ,religion ,glorified by the ,arts1 by ,overbeck1 wherein is an ideal portrait of the ,great ,unknown of ,cologne pictured as the genius of architecture4 ,a comparatively recent discovery seems to award the honour to ,gerard de ,st4 ,trond4 ,a charter of #abeg makes mention of the fact that the chapter of the cathedral had given a house1 for services rendered1 to one ,gerard1 a stone-cutter1 who had directed the work of construction2 this gift being made some years after the foundations were first laid4 ,the same architect figures among the benefactors of the hospital of ,st4 ,ursula as the master of the works at the cathedral4 ,perhaps1 then1 the name of ,gerard de ,st4 ,trond deserves to be placed with that of ,libergier1 the designer of ,reims1 the greatest ,gothic splendour of ,france4 ,engelbert's successor1 ,conrad of ,hochsteden1 furthered the plans1 whoever may have been their creator1 and work on the new edifice was begun a few months after the destruction of the older one4 ,on ,august #ad1 #abdh1 the foundation-stone of the new structure was laid1 forty-four feet below the surface of the ground4 ,the portion first erected was the choir1 and for ages it stood1 as it stands in its completed form to-day1 as perfect an example of the style of its period as is extant4 ,for seventy years this choir was taking form1 until it was consecrated on ,september #bg1 #acbb4 ,the occasion was a great one for ,cologne and for the church4 ,the ceremony was attended by much glitter and pomp1 both ecclesiastical and civil4 ,no sooner was the choir completed than it was embellished as befitted the shrine of the three kings4 ,coloured glass1 stone1 and wood-carving1 and the art of the gold and jewel smith all blended to give a magnificence to the whole which was perhaps unapproachable elsewhere at the time4 ,then1 for a time1 enthusiasm and labour languished4 ,for nearly two centuries the work was pursued by the prelates and architects in a most desultory and intermittent fashion4 ,the choir had been completed1 and to the westward considerable progress had been made1 but there was a gaunt ugly gap between4 ,it would seem as though there were no intention of ever joining the scattered parts1 which were linked only by the foundation-stones1 for the nave and aisles were left merely covered with temporary roofs4 ,then the ,reformation came1 and that boded no good for the cathedral4 ,the people looked askance at the symbol of such great power in the hands of ,rome4 ,the seventeenth century saw some abortive efforts toward completing the structure1 but in the end all came to nought4 ,in the eighteenth century the choir received its baptism of the ,renaissance1 and certain incongruous ,italian details were added4 ,the stone screens which surrounded the choir proper were demolished and the painted glass of the triforium mysteriously disappeared4 ,during the ,french ,revolution1 ,republican troops bivouacked within the walls of ,cologne's cathedral1 and the chapter fled to ,westphalia1 leaving behind valuable archives which were destroyed4 ,the very fact of its profanation may have been the cause which hastened the restoration of the edifice4 ,napoleon himself was deeply moved by the state of the ruine pittoresque1 and1 upon the advice of an agent of his government1 made a somewhat fitful attempt toward putting it in order4 ,thus the impetus for the work of restoration and completion was given4 ,after ,napoleon had restored the churches of ,cologne to their rightful guardians1 he transferred the archbishopric to ,aix-la-,chapelle1 and ,bertholet1 the new bishop1 contemptuously told the people of ,cologne to beautify their ruin by planting trees on its site4 ,the neglect to which the choir had fallen was shocking1 and it took an immediate expenditure on the part of the citizens of over thirty thousand marks to merely repair the leaks in its roof4 ,tom ,hood1 a supposed humourist1 but in reality a sad soul1 wailed over ,cologne's cathedral when he saw it in the early years of the nineteenth century1 and called it a broken promise to ,god2 and ,wordsworth wrote of it thus3 ,oh6 for the help of angels to complete ,this temple--,angels governed by a plan ,thus far pursued 7how gloriously67 by man4 ,a rearrangement of the ,catholic sees of ,germany took place in #ahba1 and the archbishopric of ,cologne was refounded and ,count ,charles ,spiegel zum ,desenburg was appointed archbishop4 ,at this time1 also1 was undertaken the repair and completion of the cathedral1 and thus what had long been a ruin and an unfinished thing was in a fair way to be speedily completed4 ,the rebuilding of the choir stimulated the desire to carry the entire work to a finish1 and a sort of second foundation-stone was laid by ,frederick ,william ,,iv4 of ,prussia on ,september #d1 #ahdb1 when the newly restored choir was also reopened4 ,illustration3 ,cologne ,cathedral in #ahbj ,from and old ,print ,in #ahdh the nave had sufficiently progressed to allow of its being consecrated2 which ceremony took place at seven o'clock in the morning of ,august #adth1 six hundred years after the commencement of the choir4 ,high mass was celebrated by the archbishop1 in the presence of ,archduke ,john1 ,king ,frederick ,william of ,prussia1 and a host of other notables4 ,within the next twenty years much progress was made in the work of completing the southern nave1 the west front--with those enormous pretentious towers--the transepts1 and the triforium and clerestory of the nave and transepts4 ,in #ahfc the wall between the fragmentary nave and the choir was removed and the structure opened from end to end4 ,before #ahgj the western towers were spired1 though the final touches were not given to them until quite #ahhj4 ,now that they are finished1 there is an undeniable elegance and symmetry which cannot be gainsaid1 though they were certainly heavily massed in the early views one sees of the cathedral in its unfinished state4 ,one still remarks the apparent--and real--stubbiness of the edifice which1 as ,fergusson said1 would have been alleviated if the overhanging transepts had been omitted4 ,why they should have been omitted it is hard to conceive1 and the criticism does not seem a reasonable one1 in spite of the fact that a certain sense of length is wanting4 ,the nave is undoubtedly very broad1 but it has double aisles which satisfactorily accounts for this4 ,professor ,freeman draws a significant contrast between the outline of the cathedrals at ,cologne and ,amiens4 ,amiens has no outline1 says he2 meaning that there is a paucity of the picturesqueness of irregularity in its sky-line4 ,only at ,cologne1 he continues1 is this outline seen in its perfect state1 and ,cologne is a ,french church on ,german soil1 just as ,westminster is a ,french church on ,english soil4 ,indeed1 among all the great cathedrals it is only at ,cologne that we find a pair of western towers with any kind of dignity and proportion4 ,the west front of ,cologne is pretty much all tower1 with the nave rather rudely crowded between the two4 ,these towers are in reality of such vast bulk that they outflank the nave considerably1 as do their smaller counterparts at ,wells1 though here at ,cologne the great transepts overflow the width even of these great towers of the faade4 ,there is a noble simplicity and yet a wealth of warmth and feeling in this church1 which runs the whole gamut of ,gothic1 from the thirteenth to the sixteenth centuries4 ,from this latter date1 however1 the style did not change1 but was carried out with that devotion to the original plan which should have inspired the imitators of ,gothic in our own time to have done better than they have4 ,the clerestoried choir of ,cologne more nearly follows the ,french variety than does any other in ,germany2 indeed no other in ,germany in any way approaches the dignity and harmony of those magnificent chevets which the ,french builders1 for a hundred years before ,cologne1 had so proudly reared4 ,metz in a way also reflects the same motive1 though that cathedral in many other respects is ,french4 ,the apside is supported by twenty-eight flying buttresses1 which again are an echo from ,france2 this time of ,beauvais2 and certainly1 if they do not excel the ,french type1 they at least quite rival it in beauty and grace4 ,one enters through a magnificently planned vestibule and comes at once1 not into darkness1 but into a subdued and religious atmosphere which is quite in keeping with the spirit of devotion4 ,there are numerous monuments scattered about1 and there are eight fifteenth-century tapestries from the ,gobelins' factory4 ,the organ-case is unusually ornate and dates from #aegb4 ,the pulpit is not perhaps so elaborate as one might expect from the general splendour surrounding it1 but its sculpture is distinctly good4 ,in the choir1 on the screens above the stalls1 is a series of restored frescoes which came to light after a coating of whitewash had been removed4 ,they were admirably restored by ,steinle in the mid-nineteenth century and are very beautiful4 ,the decorations depict scenes from the life of the ,virgin and are also reproduced in part in the glass of the lady-chapel4 ,a modern altar1 in the medival style1 has replaced the seventeenth-century ,renaissance work1 which is manifestly for the better1 judging from the old engravings that one sees of the former unlovely altar4 ,the glass throughout is hardly of the excellence that one might expect1 but the effect is undeniably good4 ,a portion of that in the ,chapel of the ,three ,kings is a relic of the old ,romanesque cathedral1 while that of the north aisle of the nave dates from the time of ,drer4 ,that of the windows of the ,chapel of the ,three ,kings has been called one of the most beautiful pages out of the book of the fifteenth-century glass-worker4 ,the subject referred to is1 of course1 ,the ,adoration of the ,magi4 ,the capitals of the columns of the nave and choir are superbly foliaged1 and add much to the general sumptuous appearance of the interior4 ,before the ,chapel of the ,three ,kings are many tombs2 the most remarkable being that which covered the remains of ,marie de ,medici1 who died in exile at ,cologne in #afdb4 ,one knows that after the death of the crafty ,richelieu the body of the queen was transported to ,st4 ,denis1 there to rest with others of the long line of kings and queens there buried1 but the heart remained at ,cologne1 and1 next to the relics of the ,three ,kings1 it is the chief sight of interest to inquisitive tourists4 ,the casket in which repose the relics of the ,three ,magi is a masterwork of the goldsmith's art of the twelfth century4 ,incrusted on its surface were more than fifteen hundred precious jewels1 although some have disappeared in the course of the ages4 ,among them is a topaz of monstrous size1 which excites the admiration of all who set eyes upon it4 ,in #agid the canons transported the casket to ,arnsberg1 to ,prague1 and to ,frankfort1 their financial difficulties of the time forcing them to sell the crowns with which the skulls were adorned4 ,since then other coronets have replaced the first1 set with gems and stones brought from ,bohemia4 ,on the #bc;d ,july1 #aafd1 these relics were first deposited in the ancient cathedral1 from which they were subsequently transferred to the new edifice amid much ceremony4 ,in their first resting-place they were guarded only by a simple iron grille up to the time when the archbishop ,maximilian ,henry constructed the dicule which encloses them to-day4 ,on the pediment of this screen is sculptured an ,adoration of the ,magi1 by ,michel ,van der ,voorst of ,antwerp4 ,there are also figures of ,st4 ,felix and ,st4 ,nabor1 and two female figures bearing the arms of the ,metropolitan ,chapter4 ,on the frieze is the following inscription3 ,,tribus ,,ab ,,oriente ,,regibus ,,devicto ,,in ,,agnitione ,,veri ,,numinis ,,mundo ,,capitulum ,,metropol ,,erexit4 ,and above the great window1 whose grille is opened on ceremonial occasions to allow the public a better view of the relics1 is graven the following3 ,,corpora ,,sanctorum ,,recubant ,,hic ,,terna ,,magorum ,,ex ,,his ,,sublatum ,,nihil ,,est ,,alibive ,,locatum4 ,finally one reads the following single line placed between the columns at the right and left of the relics3 ,et apertis thesauris suis1 obtulerunt munera4 ,behind the reliquary which encloses the skulls is a bas-relief in marble representing the solemn journey by which the relics were first brought from ,milan4 ,a bas-relief in bronze1 richly gilded1 represents an ,adoration4 ,it was the gift of ,jacques de ,croy1 ,duc de ,cambrai1 in #aeaf4 ,the window above contains some fine glass of the thirteenth century4 ,before the high altar are four great candelabra of reddish copper1 cast at ,lige in #aggj4 ,the sculptured stalls of wood1 which range themselves in a double row in the choir1 are notable for the profusion of figures of men and animals which they show in their carving4 ,they are perhaps not comparable with the stalls at ,amiens and at ,antwerp1 nor with those in ,ste4 ,ccile at ,albi in ,france2 but they merit1 nevertheless1 a very high rank for excellence1 and are very extensive as to size and number4 ,illustration3 ,stone-masons' marks1 ,cologne ,cathedral ,to sum up1 the cathedral at ,cologne has had the good fortune to have been carried out in a pure and distinct ,german form of ,gothic without the interpolation of any outr disfigurements4 ,it is a sumptuous edifice1 perhaps the grandest1 in general effect1 of any church in ,europe1 not even forgetting the splendid cathedrals at ,reims1 ,amiens1 or ,chartres1 all of which stand out from among their surroundings in much the same imposing manner as does ,cologne4 ,one recognizes even to-day on the stones of ,cologne's cathedral certain cryptogramic marks which are supposed to be merely the identifying marks of some particular stonemason's labour1 and are not1 as has been doubtfully advanced from time to time1 of any other significance whatever4 ,illustration ,,xxvi ,,the ,,churches ,,of ,,cologne ,the popular interest in ,cologne1 the ancient ,colonia ,agrippina of the ,romans1 and the romantic incidents connected with it1 are so great that one might devote a large volume to the city1 and then the half of its legend and history would not have been told4 ,cologne is one of the most ancient cities of ,germany4 ,it takes its place beside ,trves and ,mayence as one of the earliest seats of ,christianity2 but the actual date of the establishment of the church in ,cologne is lost in obscurity4 ,there were undoubtedly persons professing the ,christian faith in the colony in the third century1 and toward the year #cab the ,emperor ,constantine1 having embraced the faith himself1 gave his protection to its adherents throughout his colonies4 ,the church of ,st4 ,peter at ,cologne contains a painting presented to it by ,rubens in memory of the fact that he was baptized before the altar of this church4 ,of this picture1 a ,crucifixion of ,st4 ,peter1 ,sir ,joshua ,reynolds wrote3 ,it was painted a little time before ,rubens's death4 ,the body and head of the saint are the only good parts in this picture1 which1 however1 is finely coloured and well drawn2 but the figure bends too suddenly from the thighs1 which are ill drawn1 or1 rather1 in a bad taste of drawing2 as is likewise his arm1 which has a short interrupted outline4 ,the action of the malefactors has not that energy which he usually gave to his figures4 ,rubens1 in his letters to ,gildorp1 expresses his own approbation of this picture1 which he says was the best he ever painted2 he likewise expresses his content and happiness in the subject1 as being picturesque2 this is likewise natural to such a mind as that of ,rubens1 who was perhaps too much looking about him for the picturesque1 or something uncommon4 ,a man with his head downwards is certainly a more extraordinary object than if the head were in its natural place4 ,many parts of this picture are so feebly drawn1 and with so tame a pencil1 that ,i cannot help suspecting that ,rubens died before he had completed it1 and that it was finished by some of his scholars4 ,st4 ,maria in ,capitola1 one of ,cologne's famous churches1 stands on the site of the ancient capital of the ,romans4 ,it is one of the most perfect examples extant of a triapsed church1 though the three apses themselves are supposed to have been an afterthought added in the twelfth century1 whereas the nave dates from the century before4 ,the nave1 too1 has an interpolation or addition to its original form in that a ,gothic roof was added some three hundred years after it had first been covered with a plain wooden ceiling4 ,the three apses unfold grandly1 with the high altar in the most easterly or middle termination4 ,the general effect of the interior is decidedly high coloured1 with much polychromatic decoration and painted glass4 ,in the ,hardenrath chapel are found the most striking of these mural decorations1 which are interesting as illustrating a certain phase of art1 if not for their supreme excellence4 ,st4 ,pantaleon's claims to be the most ancient church in the city1 dating as far back as ,a4 ,d4 #ihj1 when it was reared from the stones of the ,roman bridge which before that time stretched across to ,deutz4 ,the chapel of the ,minorites contains the tomb of ,duns ,scotus1 and a horrible tale is told of his entombment alive1 of his revival in his coffin1 his struggle to escape1 and his body being found afterward at the closed door of the sepulchre1 with the hand eaten off by himself ere he died of hunger4 ,illustration3 ,,font4 ,s4 ,,martin4 ,,cologne4 ,a peculiarity of ,cologne's churches--for it is possessed by the ,apostles' ,church1 ,st4 ,cunibert's1 and ,st4 ,andrew's--is the western apse4 ,such a member is not unique to ,cologne1 for it exists in the cathedral at ,nevers1 in ,france1 and there are yet other examples in ,germany2 but its use is sufficiently uncommon to warrant speculation as to its purpose4 ,the ,apostles' ,church has this feature most highly developed4 ,the edifice is a noble pile dating from early in the eleventh century1 but reconstructed two centuries later1 to which period it really belongs so far as its general characteristics are concerned4 ,not all the church architecture of ,cologne is ,gothic2 indeed the churches of the ,apostles and ,st4 ,martin each show the ,lombard influence to a marked degree4 ,the three apses1 and their round arches and galleries1 are like a bit of ,italy transported northward4 ,st4 ,maria in ,capitola1 founded by the wife of ,pepin1 has the same characteristics1 while ,st4 ,martin has the outline of quite the ideal ,romanesque church4 ,its great tower1 which fills the square between the apses1 is certainly one of the most beautiful to be seen on a long round of ,european travel4 ,this tower must date from the latter years of the twelfth century1 and yet1 although of a period contemporary with the ,gothic of ,notre ,dame de ,paris1 it is so thoroughly ,romanesque that one wonders that1 in ,cologne at least1 the style ever died out as it did when the great ,gothic cathedral was conceived4 ,st4 ,andrews is another triapsed church1 and is considered one of the best and most elaborately designed fabrics of the ,romanesque type on the ,rhine1 particularly in respect to its central tower1 the nave1 and the west transept4 ,illustration3 ,,gross ,st4 ,,martin ,,cologne ,there has been much late ,gothic rebuilding1 but the chief characteristics of the earlier period distinctly predominated4 ,the apses are polygonal1 but it is thought that they may1 in earlier times1 have been semicircular like ,st4 ,martin's1 ,st4 ,mary's1 and the ,apostles' ,churches4 ,st4 ,gron's is an octagonal church similar to that of ,charlemagne at ,aix-la-,chapelle4 ,even more than the latter it has been altered1 rebuilt1 and added to1 but the original outline is still readily traced in spite of the fact that its foundations may have come down from the fifth century4 ,it is more difficult1 however1 to follow its evolution in detail than it is in the case of ,charlemagne's shrine at ,aix-la-,chapelle4 ,the style is distinctly ,rhenish1 though not alone in ,germany do such round churches exist2 one recalls the ,templars' ,church in ,london and the famous example at ,ravenna in ,italy4 ,the great decagon of ,st4 ,gron's is covered with a domed roof1 also divided into ten sections by groins or ribs1 which rise gracefully from the slender shafts at the angles1 meeting at the apex in a boss4 ,the ancient collegiate buildings which formerly surrounded ,st4 ,gron's have disappeared1 but there is yet an extensive structure of a more modern date which enfolds the central pile4 ,the easterly apse is low and rectangular1 while the faade of the west is flanked by two ,romanesque unspired towers4 ,st4 ,gron's is one of the most curiously constructed churches of the middle ages4 ,it was founded by the ,empress ,hlne in honour of the ,thban martyrs1 who1 to the number of three hundred and ninety-five1 died for their faith1 with their captains1 ,gron and ,gregory1 toward the end of the third century1 in the reign of the ,emperor ,diocletian4 ,one enters by a rectangular porch1 where are disposed some fragments of ,roman remains4 ,the rotunda1 or decagon1 so reminiscent of ,aix-la-,chapelle1 dates from a period contemporary therewith1 so far as its lower walls are concerned1 but the upper portions are of the twelfth century1 at least4 ,below the arches are the chapels which surround the decagon in symmetrical fashion4 ,above is the organ and the adjoining choir walls4 ,in the latter are walled up innumerable skulls of the companions of ,st4 ,gron1 and in each of the chapels is a great sarcophagus1 also containing the bones of the martyrs4 ,altogether the thought which arises is not a pleasant one1 no matter how worthy the object of preserving such a vast quantity of human remains4 ,illustration3 ,,st4 ,g,r,,on',s1 ,,cologne ,the high altar is quite isolated1 and the pavement of the choir itself1 which is aisleless1 rises behind it to a height of a dozen or more steps1--a frequent occurrence in the ,rhine churches4 ,the apse has an insertion of ,gothic windows1 but the eleventh-century ,romanesque features are still prominent4 ,in the choir are a series of flamboyant ,gothic stalls1 above which are monumental tablets let into the wall4 ,at the entrance of the choir are two colossal statues of the martyred saints1 then seven others1 behind which1 at the base of the apside1 is another altar4 ,the tapestries which surround the choir are of the haut-lisse weaving1 and represent the life history of ,joseph4 ,beneath the choir is a vast1 antique crypt1 which contains yet other sarcophagi filled1 presumably1 with human bones4 ,the pavement is composed of fragments of antique mosaic4 ,the ,jesuit church at ,cologne is one of the few ,renaissance examples on the ,rhine4 ,it is1 however1 most unchurchly1 when judged by ,french standards4 ,certainly this ,german example is highly beautiful both in design and execution2 but it is not churchly1 and its great cylindrical columns1 strung together by a gallery1 give the appearance of a foyer in an opera-house or of a modern railway-station1 rather than that of a place of worship4 ,it is all nave2 there are no transepts1 and there is no choir properly speaking1 but merely a chancel1 not very deep and again very unchurchly1 with two ugly lights on either side1 and a sort of pagoda-like screen which is decidedly theatrical4 ,the carving of the pulpit and the disposition of all the decoration is extremely bizarre1 but undeniably excellent in execution4 ,cologne is an archbishopric which has for suffragan sees1 ,trves1 ,mnster1 and ,paderborn4 ,the abbeys and churches which were erected in ,cologne1 when the archbishop first took up his residence there in the latter part of the eighth century1 were numerous and exceedingly rich in endowment4 ,so much was this so that ,cologne was given the name of the ,holy ,city of the north4 ,the ,jews of ,cologne were a numerous body1 but a decree of #adbe drove them all from the city4 ,in #afah a new decree likewise expelled the ,protestants4 ,time regulated all this1 but in those days ,cologne clung proudly to the position which she had attained as a champion of the orthodox religion4 ,in all1 there were two abbeys1 two collegiate churches1 the cathedral1 forty-nine chapels1 thirty-nine monasteries1 two convents for women1 and many commanderies of the ,teutonic order and the ,order of ,malta4 ,near ,cologne is the fine old ,cistercian abbey of ,altenburg4 ,it contains some very ancient coloured glass1 perhaps the most beautiful of its era extant1 for it is thought to date from between #abgj and #acjj1 when the art first attained any great excellence4 ,that which remains to-day shows foliage and diaper in great variety1 with no figures whatever1 this being a distinct tenet of the ,cistercian builders1 who1 in the severity of their rule1 frowned down all decorative effects that bordered upon the frivolous4 ,these windows at ,altenburg1 being the best examples of their kind1 are the distinct artistic attraction of the great abbey1 which is a dozen or more miles distant from ,cologne4 ,the choir was commenced in #abee and completed almost immediately2 but the entire main fabric was not finished until well on in the century following4 ,illustration ,,xxvii ,,aix-,,la-,,chapelle ,as ,rouen in ,normandy was known as the city of the ,conqueror1 so ,aix-la-,chapelle became known1 at a much earlier date1 as the city of ,charlemagne4 ,charlemagne was more than a conqueror2 he was a statesman1 with a boundless ambition4 ,he founded the ,german ,empire1 and changed tribes of lawless barbarians into a civilized people4 ,at ,aix-la-,chapelle he received the embassies of the ,caliph of ,baghdad and of the ,saxon ,kings of ,england1 and there he endeavoured to advance the enlightenment of his people by the founding of monasteries and by giving very material aid to the monks and priests4 ,aix therefore became the scene of some of the most interesting episodes in the life and career of ,charlemagne4 ,at the death of his consort1 ,frastrade1 ,charlemagne was inconsolable4 ,even when she had been dead for three weeks1 the monarch would not hear her death spoken of4 ,she did but sleep1 he said2 and the ,emperor clung to the chamber of his beloved1 and would not abate his watchfulness till ,frastrade woke4 ,meantime the affairs of the ,empire were falling into confusion4 ,provinces were all but revolting1 and foreign foes were mustering their forces4 ,the ,emperor's chief counsellor was the ,archbishop of ,reims4 ,one night--though this is more legendary than historical--the archbishop was walking by himself when he came upon a shape in the moonlight which proclaimed itself as follows3 ,i am the good genius of ,charlemagne4 ,i came to teach you how to remove the shadow from his spirit4 ,dig1 where ,i stand1 a grave and let the festering body of ,frastrade lie in it4 ,but1 mark you6 ,ere you move her body1 search beneath her tongue and take out what you find there4 ,the archbishop hurried toward a grotesquely carved cottage door where lived a gravedigger4 ,no silken sleeper so calm as they ,who seek a couch in the churchyard clay1 sang a voice from within4 ,illustration3 ,,charlemagne ,in half an hour the grave was begun1 and in another half-hour the churchman was in the chamber of ,frastrade1 where the ,emperor1 exhausted by his vigil1 slept kneeling at the bedside4 ,the archbishop approached1 and1 peering into the mouth of the corpse1 saw beneath the tongue a glittering jewel4 ,with hasty fingers he seized the token1 and1 as he removed it1 a loud wail startled the silence of the death-chamber and aroused the king4 ,the spell was broken4 ,throwing but a single glance at the corpse of his wife1 ,charlemagne left the chamber1 and1 even as he went1 agreed to the archbishop's arrangements for her burial4 ,the grave so secretly made ready was unnecessary1 however1 for the body was borne to ,mayence1 where a tomb raised to the memory of ,frastrade is still to be seen4 ,at the archbishop's desire ,charlemagne once more took his seat in the ,council of ,state1 and once more the ,empire was put in order4 ,the courtiers resented the advent of the churchman into the favour of the ,emperor1 who at length1 when the court was sitting at ,aix-la-,chapelle1 determined to rid himself of the mystic jewel4 ,choosing a dark night1 he sought a deep pool near the centre of a morass as being suitable for concealing the gem1 which he had determined no man should ever see4 ,coming upon the spot1 and holding the bauble in his hand above the waters1 he dropped it and saw it sink1 as though the pit were bottomless4 ,but the brilliancy of the gem was inextinguishable4 ,next morning the court was pleased to note that the archbishop's influence over the ,emperor was quite gone4 ,as the ,emperor was strolling about the city1 he fell upon the pool which held the gem4 ,there he would sit by the hour1 gazing upon the still waters1 near which he afterward built himself a home1 known to-day1 though in ruins1 as the castle of ,frankenberg4 ,a few years after the death of his wife1 ,charlemagne built ,la ,chapelle1 that great octagonal church which gives the city its ,french name4 ,the tomb of ,charlemagne is there1 inscribed only ,carolo ,magno4 ,he died at ,aix-la-,chapelle in #had1 and was buried with great pomp4 ,victor ,hugo gives ,aix-la-,chapelle as the place of his birth1 which is manifestly an error4 ,charlemagne's body was placed in the tomb in a sitting posture1 and three centuries later was exhumed by ,frederick ,barbarossa that he might sit in the same place1 and afterward the ,german ,emperors used the seat as a sort of throne of state at their coronations4 ,illustration ,the sword and sceptre and all that was mortal of the great ,charlemagne are gone1 but his memory still lives in an enduring monument in the cathedral4 ,the cathedral is wonderful for its antiquary and charming to all who come within its spell2 furthermore it forms a shrine for hero-worshippers which should not be neglected4 ,at one of the entrances is a bronze wolf1 placed there to keep in memory a monkish legend which passes current at ,aix-la-,chapelle to this day4 ,it runs as follows3 ,in former times the zealous and devout inhabitants of ,aix-la-,chapelle determined to build a cathedral4 ,for six months the clang of the hammer and axe resounded with wonderful activity1 but alas6 the money which had been supplied by pious ,christians for this holy work became exhausted1 the wages of the masons were suspended1 and with them their desire to hew and hammer1 for1 after all1 men were not so very religious in those days as to build a temple on credit4 ,thus it stood1 half-finished1 resembling a falling ruin4 ,moss1 grass1 and wild parsley flourished in the cracks of the walls1 screech-owls already discovered convenient places for their nests1 and amorous sparrows hopped lovingly about where holy priests should have been teaching lessons of chastity4 ,the builders were confounded2 they endeavoured to borrow here and there1 but no rich man could be induced to advance so large a sum4 ,the collection from house to house fell short4 ,when the magistracy received this report1 they were out of humour1 and looked with desponding countenances toward the cathedral walls1 as fathers look upon the remains of favourite children4 ,at this moment a stranger of commanding figure and something of pride in his voice and bearing entered and exclaimed3 ',bon ,dieu6 they say that you are out of spirits4 ,hem6 if nothing but money is wanting1 you may console yourselves1 gentlemen4 ,i possess mines of gold and silver1 and both can and will most willingly supply you with a ton of it4' ,the astounded ,senators sat like a row of pillars1 measuring the stranger from head to foot4 ,the burgomaster first found his tongue4 ',who are you1 noble lord1' said he1 'that thus1 entirely unknown1 speak of tons of gold as though they were sacks of beans8 ,tell us your name1 your rank in this world1 and whether you are sent from the regions above to assist us4' ',i have not the honour to reside there1' replied the stranger1 'and1 between ourselves1 ,i beg most particularly to be no longer troubled with questions concerning who and what ,i am4 ,suffice it to say ,i have gold plentiful as summer hay6' ,then1 drawing forth a leathern pouch1 he proceeded3 ',this little purse contains the tenth of what ,i'll give4 ,the rest shall soon be forthcoming4 ,now listen1 my masters1' continued he1 clinking the coin1 'all this trumpery is and shall remain yours if you promise to give me the first little soul that enters the door of the new temple when it is consecrated4' ,the astonished ,senators now sprang from their seats as if they had been shot up by an earthquake1 and then rushed pell-mell1 and fell all of a lump into the farthest corner of the room1 where they rolled and clung to each other like lambs frightened at flashes of lightning4 ,only one of the party1 who had not entirely lost his wits1 collected his remaining senses1 and1 drawing his head out of the heap1 uttered boldly1 ',avaunt1 thou wicked spirit6' ,but the stranger1 who was no less a person than ,master ,urian1 laughed at them4 ',what's all this outcry about8' said he at length2 'is my offence so heinous that you are all become like children8 ,it is ,i that may suffer from this business1 not you4 ,with my hundreds and thousands ,i have not far to run to buy a score of souls4 ,from you ,i ask but one in exchange for all my money4 ,what are you picking at straws for8 ,one may plainly see you are a mere set of humbugs6 ,for the good of the commonwealth 7which high-sounding name is often borrowed for all sorts of purposes71 many a prince would instantly conduct a whole army to be butchered1 and you refuse one single man for that purpose6 ,fie6 ,i am ashamed1 ,o overwise counsellors1 to hear you reason thus absurdly and citizen-like4 ,what6 do you think to deprive yourselves of the kernel of your people by granting my wish8 ,oh1 no1 there your wisdom is quite at fault1 for1 depend on it1 hypocrites are always the earliest church-birds4' ,by degrees1 as the cunning fiend thus spoke1 the ,senators took courage and whispered in each other's ear3 ',what is the use of our resisting8 ,the grim lion will only show his teeth once2 if we don't assent1 we shall infallibly be packed off ourselves4 ,it is better1 therefore1 to quiet him directly4' ,scarcely was this sanguinary contract concluded when a swarm of purses flew into the room through the doors and windows1 and ,urian1 more civil than before1 took leave without leaving any smell behind4 ,he stopped1 however1 at the door1 and called out with a grim leer3 ',count it over again1 for fear that ,i may have cheated you4' ,the hellish gold was piously expended in finishing the cathedral1 but1 nevertheless1 when the building shone forth in all its splendour1 the whole town was filled with fear and alarm at the sight of it4 ,the fact was that1 although the ,senators had promised by bond and oath not to trust the secret to anybody1 one of them had prated to his wife1 and she had made it a market-place tale1 so that all declared they would never set foot within the temple4 ,the terrified council now consulted the clergy1 but the good priests all hung down their heads4 ,at last a monk cried out3 ',a thought strikes me4 ,the wolf which has so long ravaged the neighbourhood of our town was this morning caught alive4 ,this will be a well-merited punishment for the destroyer of our flocks2 let him be cast to the devil in the fiery gulf4 ',tis possible the arch hell-hound may not relish this breakfast1 yet nolens volens he must swallow it4 ,you promised him certainly a soul1 but whose was not decidedly specified4' ,the monk's plan was plausible1 and the ,senate determined to put the cunning trick into execution4 ,at length the day of consecration arrived1 and orders were given to bring the wolf to the principal entrance of the cathedral4 ,so1 just as the bells began to ring1 the trap-door of the cage was pulled open1 and the savage beast darted out into the nave of the empty church4 ,master ,urian1 from his lurking-place1 beheld this consecration offering with the utmost fury4 ,burning with choler at being thus deceived1 he raged like a tempest and then rushed forth1 slamming the brass gate so violently after him that the rings split in two4 ,this crack1 which serves to commemorate the priest's victory over the tricks of the devil1 is still exhibited to the gaping travellers who visit the cathedral4 ,so much for the legend4 ,but the devil1 disappointed at the turn of affairs in respect to the cathedral1 had his revenge when ,aix1 fifty years or more ago1 first became the centre of public gaming-tables1 which only lately have been deserted by what is known as smart society for other resorts of a similar nature elsewhere4 ,there can be no question but that ,charlemagne's church at ,aix1 while it is itself a rather vivid memory of ,ravenna1 is the prototype of much church-building elsewhere4 ,the round churches of ,germany followed in due course1 while1 in respect to some details1 the cathedral has been claimed to be the forerunner of the true ,gothic4 ,at any rate1 there is a reflection of its dome in that which terminates the centre of the cross of ,st4 ,fdle at ,como4 ,the similarity goes to prove that ,charlemagne's industry in church-building in ,italy was as great as his desire of conquest4 ,the church at ,aix-la-,chapelle was frankly designed as the tomb of ,charlemagne1 and that perhaps accounts for the combining of the rotunda of a ceremonial edifice with that of a basilica intended solely for worship4 ,part of it was undoubtedly the work of the ,comacine builders whom ,charlemagne brought from ,italy1 and part is nothing more than an importation or adaptation of classical and ,byzantine adornments4 ,charlemagne's architects studied geography and climate well when they erected this link between the ,romanesque-,lombardic style of the south and the ,gothic of the north4 ,that portion of the present cathedral at ,aix-la-,chapelle which was built by ,charlemagne is the octagonal projection toward the east4 ,it forms a truly regal mausoleum1 and for twelve hundred years has well stood the march of time4 ,it is supposed to have been the most magnificent church edifice of ,charlemagne's era throughout all ,europe1 though it was seriously injured by an earthquake a few years after its completion4 ,illustration3 ,,aix-,,la-,,chapelle ,,cathedral ,later it was plundered by the ,normans1 and it suffered disastrous fires in #aadf1 #abcd1 #abcf1 and #afef1 having in consequence undergone many material changes4 ,its external features have been considerably added to1 but the prototype of the round and octagonal churches1 subsequently erected in ,germany1 is here visible to-day in all its comparative novelty4 ,the granite and porphyry columns which support the arches giving upon the interior of the octagon were once taken and carried to ,paris1 but fortunately they were returned and again put into position4 ,the choir of the church1 as it now is1 was not begun until #acec1 and was finished in the century following4 ,it is pure ,gothic of the most approved variety1 whereas the octagon church is as pure ,romanesque2 and the two components do not blend or mingle in the least4 ,in the roof of the octagon is a remarkable specimen of modern wall and roof decoration1 which might better have been omitted4 ,there is a cloister leading from the northwest chapel which has recently been restored4 ,it is a delightful retreat1 and has the stations of the cross displayed upon its inner wall4 ,there are numerous rare and valuable relics in the cathedral2 the chief of which is the flagstone1 which1 bearing the simple words1 ,carolo ,magno1 is supposed to cover the actual burial-place of ,charlemagne4 ,above this is a magnificent chandelier1 reminiscent of another in the church at ,hildesheim1 the gift of the ,emperor ,frederick ,barbarossa4 ,eight chapels surround the octagon1 and in the ,chapel of the ,holy ,cross is a magnificent altar-piece consisting of a crucifix carved in wood4 ,most of the kings and queens who were crowned at ,aix-la-,chapelle presented articles of value to the sacristy4 ,the most magnificent of these is a sarcophagus in ,parian marble representing the ,rape of ,proserpine4 ,the marble chair on which ,charlemagne was found sitting in his tomb1 and upon which the ,german emperors were crowned1 is yet to be seen4 ,the relics in the cathedral are divided into two classes4 ,in the first class are those which are the most sacred2 in the second class are those of lesser importance4 ,the latter are visible at all times2 the former only once in seven years1 when they are exposed for a fortnight4 ,the choir-stalls are set against the walls in a curious fashion1 and there are chairs instead of the usual ,german benches for the congregation4 ,the appearance of this celebrated cathedral from the outside is most curious1 since the erections and additions of later centuries have not been symmetrical4 ,there is a tall1 modern spire which is not a beautiful addition1 and the magnificent octagon has had a slate roof added1 which likewise is a detraction4 ,st4 ,adelbert's was another ancient church of ,aix-la-,chapelle1 but it has given way to a modern edifice bearing the same name1 though it is in good taste and most pleasing in its interior arrangement4 ,the ,minoriten ,kirche is a monkish foundation of the fourteenth or fifteenth century4 ,its nave and aisles all come under one canopy vault1 and its aisleless choir is squared off abruptly with an enormous carved and painted altar-piece of no great excellence4 ,it is pleasant to recall here that the council of ,aix-la-,chapelle made laws1 which ,charlemagne himself encouraged1 referring to the treatment of pilgrims by the hospices which were so generally established throughout ,charlemagne's realm in ,carlovingian times4 ,to the ordinary fine for murder there was added sixty soldi more if the person killed were a pilgrim to or from a hospice4 ,any who denied food and shelter to a pilgrim was fined three soldi4 ,these were the regulations put into effect through ,charlemagne's dominions at the suggestion of ,pepin ,,ii4 ,illustration ,,xxviii ,,li,,ge ,the natural highway from ,antwerp and ,brussels to the ,rhine lies through ,lige and ,aix-la-,chapelle1 or ,aachen1 as the ,germans call the latter4 ,wordsworth1 in his wonderful travel poem1 wrote of the ,meuse1 which flows by ,lige on its way to the ,royal ,ardennes1 in a way which should induce many sated travellers to follow in his footsteps1 and know something of the fascinating charm of this most fertile and perhaps the most picturesque of all the rivers of ,europe4 ,what lovelier home could gentle fancy choose8 ,in this the stream1 whose cities1 heights and plains1 ,war's favourite playground1 are with crimson stains ,familiar1 as the morn with pearly dews4 99 99 99 99 99 ,how sweet the prospect of yon watery glade1 ,with its gray locks clustering in pensive shade1 ,that1 shap'd like old monastic turrets1 rise1 ,from the smooth meadow ground serene and still4 ,as one journeys on to ,lige1 ,roman influences have left many and visible remains4 ,crossing the plain of ,neervinden1 one enters the province of the ,ligeois1 where the ,french were defeated by the ,austrians in #agic1 thus releasing ,belgium from the ,gallic yoke4 ,at ,landen one recalls that it is the town of the inception of the family of ,charlemagne which gave to ,france her second race of kings4 ,lige has been called the ,birmingham of ,continental ,europe4 ,it might better be called one of the foremost industrial centres of the world1 for such it is to-day4 ,it is beautifully placed in an amphitheatre-like valley1 and its tall chimneys1 its smoke1 and its grind of wheels bespeak an activity and unrest of which the former ages knew not4 ,formerly the ,ligeois were a turbulent and truculent folk1 if one is to believe history4 ,if1 however1 one does not care to go back to history1 he might turn to the pages of ,quentin ,durward and read of the spirit of romance which once surrounded ,lige and its people4 ,the famous ,legend of the ,ligeois recounts how a working blacksmith found an inexhaustible supply of coals for his forge through the aid of a gnomish old man4 ,illustration3 ,,general ,,view of ,,li,,ge ,previously the smith's fires had burned low1 and only the old man's song inspired him to forage on the hillside1 with the result that the future prosperity of the city grew up from the accessibility of this inexhaustible coal supply4 ,the old man's story ran thus3 ,wine's good in wintry weather4 ,up the hillside near the heather1 ,go and gather the black earth1 ,it shall give your fire birth4 ,ill fares the hide when the buckler wants mending1 ,ill fares the plough when the coulter wants tending4 ,when ,lige1 through its prosperity1 had grown to good proportions1 its government was assigned to a sort of prelate-proprietor4 ,these princely prelates were often but lads of eighteen or twenty1 who became identified with the ,church1 frequently enough1 simply because of the power it gave them4 ,the craftsmen and artisans of the city bought many rights from time to time from the bishops1 and finally wrested the power from out of the hands of the ,church1 much as did the burghers of other cities from their feudal lords4 ,then followed the struggle1 which in ,flanders raged perhaps more bitterly than elsewhere in ,europe2 the rising1 where the many fought against the privileged few1 and much riot and bloodshed was caused on all sides4 ,then came first the burgher heroes of ,lige1 who1 like their confrres in ,ghent and ,bruges1 found in many instances the martyrdom of the patriot4 ,in the ,place ,st4 ,lambert formerly stood--until #ahja1 when it was removed after having been damaged by a mob--the former cathedral of ,st4 ,lambert1 which took its name from the first bishop of ,lige4 ,this ancient cathedral was of much grandeur and magnificence1 attributes which the present cathedral of ,st4 ,paul decidedly lacks4 ,it was in this venerable cathedral of ,st4 ,lambert that ,quentin ,durward went to hear mass1 as we learn from ,scott's novel1 and here also1 after the famous siege of ,lige by ,louis ,,xi4 and ,charles the ,bold1 the two princes themselves repaired for the same purpose4 ,st4 ,lambert of ,lige and the three ,kings of ,cologne were1 it would appear1 the chief patrons to whom ,quentin and his early followers made their vows4 ,the bishopric was founded by ,hraclius in #ifh1 and a church1 of which the present choir is a part1 was built upon the site of the present ,st4 ,paul's in the thirteenth century4 ,the see was formerly a suffragan of ,cologne1 and the only bishopric in the ,low ,countries except ,tournai and ,utrecht4 ,the present cathedral is consistently enough a ,gothic church1 but it is not a satisfactory example1 in spite of its magnificent proportions4 ,of a cruciform plan1 and with a nave which was only completed in #aebh1 it is a poor apology for a great ,gothic church1 such as we know at ,metz1 ,nancy1 or even at ,brussels4 ,its western tower1 satisfactory enough in itself1 is crowned with a ludicrous spire1 which dates only from #ahab4 ,since ,st4 ,lambert's has disappeared1 and the present ,st4 ,paul's dates only from the ante-,revolutionary days1 the chief ecclesiastical treasure of the city is the glise ,st4 ,jacques4 ,it was founded in #ajad by the ,bishop ,baudry ,,ii41 but the ,romanesque tower to the west is of the century following1 and the whole fabric was very much modified in #aeac-ch4 ,it is a magnificent flamboyant ,gothic church of quite the first rank1 when compared with others of its kind elsewhere4 ,it has an ample nave and aisles with a polygonal choir and a series of radiating chapels which are singularly beautiful4 ,the magnificent north portal is an addition of the sixteenth century4 ,the interior has been called ,spanish in its motive4 ,certainly it is not quite like any other ,gothic forms we know in these parts1 and does bear some resemblance to that peculiar variety of ,gothic which belongs to ,spain4 ,the choir has some fine glass showing the armorial bearings of former patrons of the church4 ,there is a beautiful carved stone staircase and much sculptured stonework in the choir4 ,the organ-buffet is ornate1 even of its kind1--a masterpiece of cabinet-making1--and was the work of ,andre ,severin of ,maestricht in #afgc4 ,the left transept1 which is some thirty feet longer than the right1 has a fine painting of a ,mater ,dolorosa1 while1 opposite1 is a stone monument to the founder of the church1 ,baudry ,,ii41 of ,renaissance workmanship4 ,st4 ,jean is another pre-tenth-century foundation of the ,bishop ,notger1 somewhat after the plan of the round church at ,aix-la-,chapelle4 ,it was entirely rebuilt1 however1 in the eighteenth century1 though the original octagon was kept intact4 ,at some distance from the city1 on a height which may be truly called dominating1 is the church of ,st4 ,martin1 founded in #ifb1 and reconstructed1 after the ,gothic manner of the time1 contemporary with ,st4 ,jacques4 ,of recent times it has been restored4 ,if any separation or division of its parts can be made1 one concludes that the choir is ,german1 and its nave ,french4 ,in #abdf there was held in this church a ,fte ,dieu following upon a vision of ,ste4 ,julienne1 the abbess of ,cornillon near ,lige4 ,the fte was ordained by ,pope ,urbain ,,iv41 who himself had been a canon of the cathedral of ,lige4 ,ste4 ,croix was another of ,notger's foundations1 in #igi1 on the site of an ancient chteau4 ,the choir was built toward #aage1 and has an octagonal tower with a gallery of small columns just under the roof1 after the manner known as distinctly ,rhenish4 ,the church exhibits thoroughly that ,rhine manner of building which made combined use of the ,gothic and ,romanesque1--in bewildering fashion1 to one who has previously known only the comparatively pure types of ,france4 ,the nave and its aisles rise to the same height1 but the apsidal choir is aisleless4 ,the general effect of the interior is light and graceful1 with circular columns in a blue-gray stone1 which is very beautiful4 ,a series of fourteenth or fifteenth century ,stations of the ,cross fill the arches of the transepts2 quite an unusual arrangement of this feature1 and one which seems well considered4 ,st4 ,barthlemy's is ,lige's other great church4 ,it is a basilica of five naves and two ,romanesque towers4 ,it dates in reality from the twelfth century1 but has been greatly modernized4 ,st4 ,barthlemy's might have been a highly interesting example of a ,romanesque church had it not been desecrated by late ,italian details4 ,st4 ,barthlemy's has a twelfth-century art treasure in a brazen font1 cast in #aaab by ,patras1 a brass-founder of ,dinant on the ,meuse4 ,its bowl depicts five baptismal scenes in high relief1 each accompanied by a descriptive legend4 ,upon the rim of the bowl is the following legend3 ,bissenis bobus pastorum forma notatur1 ,quos et apostolice commendat gratia vite1 ,officiiq2 gradus quo fluminis impetus bujus ,letificat sanctam purgatis civibus urbem4 ,illustration ,,xxix ,d,,sseldorf1 ,,neuss1 ,,and ,m,,nchen-,,gladbach ,dsseldorf ,among sthetic people in general1 ,dsseldorf is revered--or was revered1 though the time has long since passed--for that style of pictorial art known to the world as the ,dsseldorf ,school4 ,a remarkably good collection of pictures remains in its art gallery to remind us of the fame of ,dsseldorf as an art centre1 but to-day its art has become old-fashioned1 and the gay little metropolis has many1 if more worldly1 counter attractions4 ,dsseldorf takes its name from the little river ,dssel which joins the ,rhine at this point4 ,the ,french guide-books call ,dsseldorf the plus coquettes des bords du ,rhin2 and so it really is1 for few tourists go there for its churches alone1 though they are by no means squalid or inferior4 ,the city was the residence of the ,counts1 afterward the ,dukes1 of ,berg--for it was made a duchy by the ,emperor ,wenceslaus--from the end of the thirteenth century to the beginning of the nineteenth4 ,in #ahjf ,napoleon made it the capital of a new ,grand ,duchy of ,berg in favour of ,joachim ,murat4 ,by the treaty of #ahae ,dsseldorf fell to ,prussia1 and became the chief town of the regency of ,dsseldorf1 and the seat of a superior court of justice4 ,occupying the site that it does1 on the banks of a great waterway1 the city naturally became the centre of an important commerce4 ,dsseldorf is the birthplace of many who have borne great names2 of the philosopher ,jacobi and his poet brother2 the ,baron de ,hompesch1 the last grand master of the ,order of ,malta2 ,von ,ense1 the eminent litterateur2 the poet ,heinrich ,heine 7who died at ,paris in #ahee71 and the painters ,cornelius1 ,lenzen1 and ,achenbach4 ,the principal church edifice is that dedicated to ,st4 ,lambert1 the ,hofkirche4 ,it has a strong and hardy tower1 very tall1 and surmounted by a slate-covered spire4 ,the ogival style predominates1 and the fabric dates mostly from the fourteenth century4 ,its chief feature is its choir1 which is far more ample and beautiful than the nave4 ,the rest of the edifice fails to express any very high ideals of church-building4 ,at the foot of the apside1 behind the choir1 is a mausoleum erected in the seventeenth century for the elector1 ,john ,wilhelm1 who died in #afij4 ,in the ambulatory of the choir is1 on the left1 a florid ,gothic tabernacle1 and by the second pillar of the nave is a colossal statue of ,st4 ,christopher4 ,there are many tombs of ,jacobeans1 and of the ,dukes of ,berg4 ,there are also a number of paintings by ,dsseldorf artists scattered about the church1 but they have not the qualities exhibited by the old ,flemish masters1 and are hardly worthy of remark4 ,on the exterior of the southern wall is affixed an immense ,calvary1 which is theatrical in the extreme1 and is not dignified nor churchly4 ,the ,jesuit church is not remarkable architecturally1 but there are a number of tombs therein of the princes of the house of ,neubourg4 ,the ruins of the ancient chteau of ,dsseldorf suggest but faintly its former glories before it was destroyed by the ,french bombardment of the city in the eighteenth century4 ,it has been restored1 in a way1 but with little regard for historical traditions1 and a part of the edifice was made the home of the famous ,dsseldorf academy of painting1 founded in #aggg by ,charles ,theodore and restablished in #ahbb4 ,it gave birth to a celebrated school of painting1 now all but dead4 ,among the famous and well-known names connected therewith are3 ,cornelius1 ,schadow1 ,lessing1 ,schirmer1 ,hildebrand1 and ,koehler2 the ,american1 ,lentzen2 the ,norwegians1 ,tidemann and ,gude2 the landscape painters1 ,weber and ,fay2 and the historical painters1 ,knaus1 ,hbner1 and ,scheuren2 and finally the celebrated engraver1 ,keller4 ,the museum and the gallery of paintings are still superb1 and form a contribution to the history of the art of all ages which would be quite incomplete without it4 ,there are ten churches in ,dsseldorf1 and a synagogue1 but in truth there is not much of interest in them all1 and the handsomest city of ,germany must rest its fame on something more than its appeal to the lover of churches4 ,neuss ,there is not much about the compact1 though rather ungainly1 little city of ,neuss to interest any but the lover of churches1 though its history is very ancient1 and the development of its patronymic through ,novesium1 ,niusa1 and ,nova ,castra bespeaks volumes for the part it has played in the past4 ,its origin dates back to the time of ,drusus1 and it is mentioned by ,tacitus as the winter quarters of the ,roman ,army4 ,the city was ravaged by ,attila in #dea1 and by the ,normans in the ninth century4 ,emperor ,philip of ,suabia captured it in #abjf1 and gave it to the ,archbishop of ,cologne4 ,a chapter of nobles was founded here in #hbe1 and ,count ,evrard of ,clves and ,bertha1 his wife1 erected1 in the first years of the thirteenth century1 its principal church dedicated to ,st4 ,quirinus4 ,this church stands to-day1 with its great square tower looming bulkily over the house-tops1 and is reckoned as the prototype of many similar structures elsewhere4 ,it has the almost perfect disposition and development of the double apse so frequently met with in ,german churches4 ,in general1 its architecture is of a heavy order1 and the whole structure is grim1 though by no means gaunt nor cold4 ,illustration3 ,,neuss ,st4 ,quirinus is of the epoch when the ,romanesque was being replaced nearly everywhere by the new-coming ,gothic4 ,in spite of this1 its style is1 curiously enough1 neither one nor the other1 nor is it transition1 though the pointed arch has crept in and often eliminated the ,romanesque attributes of the round-arch style round about4 ,it is manifestly not transition1 because there was no transition here from ,romanesque to ,gothic4 ,it remained palpably ,romanesque in spite of ,gothic interpolations4 ,in the windows one can but remark the indecision which prompted the builders to fashion them in such extraordinary squat shapes1 and they certainly serve their purpose of lighting the interior very badly4 ,the nave and aisles of ,st4 ,quirinus are ample1 and its spacious mnnerchre in the triforium is like all its fellows in the ,german churches1 an adjunct which adds to the general effect of size4 ,the church dates from #abji1 the period when the ,gothic influence was not only making itself felt over the border1 in the domain of ,france and ,burgundy1 but was already extending its influence elsewhere4 ,but here1 westward even of the borders of the ,rhine1 the round arch lingered on1 to the exclusion of any very marked ,gothic tendency4 ,there is an inscription in stone on the south wall of the church which places the date of its erection beyond all doubt4 ,it reads thus3 ,,anno 4 ,,incarna4 ,,dni 4 ,,mc4,c4,v4,i4,i4,i4,i4 ,,pmo 4 ,,iperii 4 ,,an ,,no 4 ,,ottonis 4 ,a ,,dolfo 4 ,,colon ,,epo 4 ,,sophia 4 ,a ,,bba 4 ,,magister ,,wolbero 4 ,,po ,,suit 4 ,,pmu 4 ,,lap ,,ide 4 ,,fundame ,,nti 4 ,,hui 4 ,,tem ,,pli 4 ,i 4 ,,die 4 ,,sci 4 ,,di ,,onisii 4 ,,mar4 ,when a former ,count of ,clves founded the primitive church here in the ninth century1 it was a collegiate church attached to the abbey of which the mother superior was the ,abbess ,sophia1 presumably the same referred to in the above inscription4 ,the abbey itself was destroyed in #aaii during a civil warfare4 ,though not really a massive structure1 the church of ,st4 ,quirinus is1 in every particular1 of a strength and solidity which rank it as a masterwork of its age4 ,there is nothing weak and attenuated about it1 and its transepts and apses make up in general effect what it lacks in actual area4 ,the faade is imposing1 though decidedly bizarre when compared with the simple flowing lines of ,gothic2 but1 on the whole1 the effect is one of a certain grandeur4 ,the aisles are astonishingly tall when compared with the nave4 ,there are various meetings of round-arched windows and arcades with those of a pointed nature1 but there is not the slightest evidence of a development or transition from one to the other1 hence the ,gothic strain may be said not to exist4 ,the general effect of the exterior is polychromatic1 which is not according to the best conceptions of ecclesiastical decorations in architecture4 ,a twilight or a moonlight view1 however1 tones it all down in a manner that makes the fabric appear quite the most imposing church of its size that one may find in these parts4 ,the great central tower1 reminiscent enough of the parish church in ,england1 but not so frequent in ,germany1 and still less so in ,france1 forms a great lantern which rises over the crossing in a marvellous and exceedingly practical manner1 in that it affords about the only adequate means of admitting light into the interior4 ,the triforium of the nave is the chief interior feature to be remarked1 and is most spaciously planned4 ,it forms the mnnerchre before mentioned4 ,the clerestory windows are decidedly ,rhenish in character1 resembling1 says one antiquary1 who is a humourist if nothing else1 an ace of clubs4 ,at any rate1 it is a most unusual and inefficient manner of lighting a great church4 ,these windows are practically trefoils of most unsymmetrical proportions1 and are in every way unlovely4 ,the choir is raised on a platform1 beneath which is the crypt4 ,three flights of steps lead to this platform1 which gives it a far more grand appearance than its actual dimensions would otherwise allow4 ,the choir-stalls are of the fourteenth century1 and are the only medival furnishings to be seen in the church to-day4 ,the apses contain only moderately effective glass4 ,the frescoes in the cupola of ,st4 ,quirinus1 which are the work of ,cornelius of ,dsseldorf 7about #ahaa71 are most interesting1 and are among the most successful of the great number of modern works of their kind to be seen in ,germany4 ,mnchen-,gladbach ,mnchen-,gladbach is one of those snug little ,german towns that one comes across now and then when wandering along off the beaten track4 ,its streets are trim and clean1 and its houses likewise1 with a brilliancy of fresh paint which is consistently and proverbially ,dutch4 ,beneath one's foot is a sea of cobblestones all worn to a smoothness which argues the tramp of countless hordes of feet over centuries of time1 if paving-stones have really been invented so long4 ,with all its air of prosperity and providence1 ,mnchen-,gladbach is not a highly interesting town in which to linger4 ,its name is compounded of its prefix1 meaning monk's1 with its original patronymic1 ,gladbach4 ,the monks of ,gladbach were a part of the establishment which founded the minster church of ,gladbach1 an old abbey or monastic edifice which stands to-day1 a great transeptless thirteenth-century structure with an elevated choir reached from the nave by two flights of ten or a dozen steps4 ,the crypt is entered from between these two flights of steps1 and forms all that is left to mark the primitive church4 ,the round-arched style and ,gothic1 of a sort1 intermingle in the nave in bewildering fashion until one wonders in what classification it really belongs4 ,the openings from the aisles to the nave are pointed1 while above is an unpierced triforium with a clerestory of round-headed arches4 ,in the aisles are what ,jacobean architects called fanlights1 a series of peculiarly shaped openings like an oddly shaped fan4 ,they are distinctly ,rhenish2 indeed they are not acknowledged to be found elsewhere1 and hence may be considered as one of the chief points of distinction of this otherwise not remarkably appealing church4 ,there are no aisles in the choir1 which dates from the thirteenth century and terminates with a multi-sided apse pierced by long lancet windows4 ,the ,stadt ,kirche of ,gladbach1 or the parish church as it properly takes rank1 is still a ,catholic edifice and shows the advantage of having been kept in active use4 ,there is nothing musty or moss-grown about it1 but in every way it is as warmly appealing as the monks' church is coldly unattractive4 ,there is no marked choir termination1 its great aisles extending completely to the rear with just a suspicion of a rudimentary pentagonal apse to suggest the easterly end4 ,this is a common enough arrangement in ,german churches1 which more frequently than not1 in the fourteenth century1 the date of this structure1 possessed nothing but a squared-off east end1 after the ,english manner of building4 ,at the westerly end is a well-planned tower distinctly ,rhenish--if it were not it would be thought heavy--and where the choir is supposed to join the nave the roof is surmounted by a tiny spire1 which1 in truth1 is no addition of beauty4 ,the interior shows great height1 and1 if of no great architectural splendour1 has enough mural embellishment and attractive glass to stamp it as a livable and lovable edifice for religious worship1 which is a good deal more than most modern church buildings ever acquire4 ,the six bays of the nave show pointed arches springing from rounded columns4 ,there is an arcaded triforium1 and an elaborate series of clerestory windows which show the geometrical and flamboyant ,gothic in its perfection4 ,the apse is lighted with five windows of great height4 ,the glass is a mixture of colour and monotone1 but the effect is undeniably good4 ,the chancel is so shallow that the choir flows over1 as it were1 into one bay of the nave1 while the choir-stalls themselves are placed in the aisles4 ,certainly a most unusual1 and perhaps a unique1 arrangement4 ,an altar fronts the west end of either range of stalls1 and back1 at the easterly end of the aisles1 is found another altar4 ,the high altar has a handsome modern screen in the form of a gilt triptych1 which is singularly effective and imposing4 ,beneath the tower1 at the westerly end1 is the baptistery1 entrance to which from the body of the church is gained through a low1 pointed arch4 ,illustration ,,xxx ,,essen ,,and ,,dortmund ,essen ,lying just to the eastward of the ,rhine are ,essen and ,dortmund4 ,the former was once the site of a powerful abbey of ,benedictine nuns1 which was dissolved in #ahjc4 ,the abbess of ,essen was always a titled person1 and was a member of the ,westphalian circle of the ,imperial ,estates1 in which capacity she held a governing right over a large tract of country immediately surrounding the abbey4 ,there are the spires of five churches hidden away in the forest of chimneys of the manufactories of ,essen which rise skyward from the ,rhineland plain4 ,it is not a very beautiful picture that one sees from across the railway viaduct1 but a remarkable one1 and one that has undeniable elements of the picturesque4 ,the cathedral at ,essen is a conglomerate group of buildings of many epochs4 ,the church proper consists of a three-aisled nave1 with the usual choir appendage in what must pass for acceptable ,gothic4 ,illustration3 ,,general ,,view of ,,essen ,there are ,romanesque features which date back as far as #hgd1 when the original edifice was built by ,bishop ,alfred of ,hildesheim4 ,the crypt1 the transept1 and possibly a part of the choir foundation1 are of the eleventh century1 and are of ,romanesque motive2 but the ,gothic fabric superimposes itself upon these early works in the style in vogue in the fourteenth century4 ,there are evidences of a central octagon1 like that at ,aix-la-,chapelle1 and ,st4 ,gron's at ,cologne1 but the fourteenth-century rebuilding has practically covered this up1 though three of the original faces are left1 and bear aloft a series of tall ,corinthian columns4 ,the nave1 for some reason1 inexplicable on first sight1 is low and unimpressive1 caused doubtless by the grandeur of the supporting pillars of the roof and the shallowness of the groining above4 ,the pillars are single cylinders with curiously plain capitals4 ,the choir rises a few steps above the nave pavement1 in order to give height to the crypt ambulatory1 as is frequently the custom in ,german churches4 ,the windows of the south aisle are good in their design and glass1 which1 though modern1 reflects the ,gothic medival spirit far better than is usual4 ,there is an elevated gallery along the aisle walls1 which forms a sort of tribune or mnnerchre4 ,in one of the recesses beneath the gallery is a highly coloured sculpture group of an ,entombment4 ,the easterly portion of the cathedral is by far the most pleasing1 and partakes of the best ,gothic features1 and indeed is far superior to the nave4 ,the supporting columns of the vaulting have foliaged capitals1 while the vaulting itself is even more elaborate4 ,the aisles1 as they approach the choir1 are rectangular-ended1 and extend quite to the end of the choir termination1 showing a very singular cross-section of this portion of the church4 ,the screen is a modern stone work after the ,gothic manner4 ,it sits beneath a not unbeautiful ,gothic window1 rather richly traceried with four lights4 ,the glass of this window is modern1 but1 like that in the nave aisles1 is excellent4 ,the crypt is entered from the south transept1 and also from the nave by an entrance which passes between the steps which rise to the choir pavement4 ,illustration ,there is an elaborate seven-branched candlestick at the juncture of the nave and choir1 modelled on one known to have existed in the ,temple at ,jerusalem4 ,it is of the conventional form1 but is a rare piece of church furniture in that it dates from #ajjc1 when it was presented by the ,abbess ,matilda1 sister of the ,emperor ,otho ,,ii4 ,since it stands six or eight feet in height1 this candlestick is a notable and conspicuous object4 ,before the steps leading to the crypt is the tomb of ,bishop ,alfred of ,hildesheim4 ,the crypt is all that a crypt should be1--a dim-lighted1 solemn chamber of five aisles1 the pavement of the church above being supported on stubby square pillars4 ,it is used also for devotional purposes1 the altar at the easterly end of the central aisle bearing the inscription1 ,heilige ,maria1 ,trsterin der ,betrubten1 bitt fur uns4 ,the cloisters of this interesting edifice are1 in part1 of the primitive style of early ,gothic1 while the southern and western sides are an approach to the full-blown ,gothic of a later epoch1 with foliaged capitals4 ,dortmund ,dortmund is the largest town of the province of ,westphalia1 and possesses four medival churches of more than usual interest4 ,st4 ,reinhold's is the chief1 and is a cruciform edifice of more than ordinary proportions4 ,it is a picturesque mlange of many parts4 ,its western tower is of no style in particular1 and is hideous1 but most curious considering its environment4 ,the nave and transepts are supposedly of the thirteenth century1 but they are certainly not good ,gothic as we know it elsewhere4 ,the choir is of the early fifteenth century1 and is much more gracefully conceived than is any other portion of this nondescript edifice4 ,the transepts are square boxlike protuberances1 which link the choir with the nave in most unappealing fashion4 ,in the interior the most astonishing features are the low truncated nave of three bays1 the grimness of the walls of the entire fabric1--excepting the well-lighted and aspiring choir1--and the straight-backed pews4 ,the clerestory windows of the nave are semicircular1 but the aisles are lighted by ,gothic openings4 ,there are two altars1 one at the choir entrance and the other in the apse1 each surmounted by a triptych4 ,the windows of the choir-apse1 tall1 ample1 and of admirable framing1 are the chief glory of this not very beautiful1 though interesting1 church4 ,st4 ,mary's is a late twelfth-century ,romanesque structure1 without transepts1 but possessed of a towering apsidal choir4 ,the nave is an attenuated affair with no triforium1 leaving a vast blank wall space1 as though it were intended to have been decorated4 ,dortmund's ,pfarr ,kirche was a former ,dominican foundation4 ,its general proportions are far greater than those of any other of the city's churches4 ,the nave is ample1 and the great choir of four bays1 with spacious1 lofty windows1 is of the same generous proportions4 ,the church dates only from the mid-fourteenth century1 and its three-bayed nave is even later4 ,the aisles of the nave are curious in that they are not of similar dimensions4 ,that on the street side is separated from the nave proper by square piers1 with a slender shaft running to the vaulting4 ,the other aisle is more ample1 and has its arched openings to the nave composed of four shafts superimposed upon a central cylinder4 ,the nave lighting is amply provided for by a series of four light windows1 bare1 however1 of any glass worthy of remark4 ,the south wall1 which has no windows1 has two large frescoes1 a ,descent of the ,holy ,ghost and an ,assumption4 ,there is also a series of paintings by two native artists1 ,heinrich and ,victor ,dunwege4 ,illustration ,,xxxi ,,emmerich1 ,,cl,,ves1 ,,and ,,xanten ,emmerich and ,clves ,just below ,emmerich1 which is the last of the ,german ,rhenish cities1 the ,rhine divides itself1 and1 branching to the north1 takes the ,dutch name of ,oud ,rijn1 which name1 with the variation ,neder ,rijn1 it retains until it reaches the sea4 ,the branch to the west takes the name of the ,waal and passes on through ,nymegen1 bounding ,brabant on the north1 and enters the sea beyond ,dordrecht4 ,emmerich has1 in its church of ,st4 ,martin1 a tenth-century church of no great architectural worth1 but charming to contemplate1 nevertheless4 ,four kilometres away is ,clves1 which1 under the ,romans1 was known as ,clivia and attained considerable prominence and prosperity4 ,the ,normans sacked it in the ninth century1 but it was shortly rebuilt1 and became the chief town of the ,county1 afterward the ,duchy1 of ,clves4 ,under the ,empire the city belonged to ,france4 ,the town's principal church is quite attractive1 but1 beyond the distinction which it has in its twin spires1 terminating a singularly long line of roof-top of nave and choir1 there are no architectural features of note4 ,xanten ,at a little distance from the ,rhine1 just before the frontier of ,holland is reached1 is ,xanten1 the ancient ,ulpia ,castra4 ,near by1 in the neighbouring village of ,mirten1 one sees the remains of an ancient amphitheatre1 which denotes a considerable importance for the neighbourhood in ,roman times4 ,if more proof were needed1 it will be found in the museum at ,bonn1 where are many ,roman antiquities coming from the neighbourhood4 ,xanten is celebrated for having given birth to ,st4 ,norbert1 the founder of the order of ,premonstratension monks1 and for having been the cradle of ,siegfried1 the hero of the ,nibelungen ,lied4 ,the city was captured by the ,french in #afgb4 ,the collegiate church of ,xanten is known as ,st4 ,victor's1 and is truly celebrated for the grace and beauty of its early twelfth-century ,gothic4 ,without transepts or clerestory1 it shows in its one ample chamber1 comprising both nave and choir1 an exemplification of the art of combining the accessories of the ,latin-cross structures of ,france with the hall-church idea so frequently met with in ,germany1 and so well recognized as a distinct ,german type4 ,this arrangement does not give the church the appearance of being in any way confined or limited2 quite the reverse is the case1 and the double range of windows in the apse indicates1 at least1 a loftiness and hardiness of construction which is highly commendable4 ,there are1 moreover1 double aisles to both nave and choir which give an ampleness to the interior which even its abundance of furnishings does not overcrowd4 ,there are few five-aisled churches such as this in ,germany1 or indeed elsewhere1 ,cologne being ,germany's chief example in this style4 ,in general1 the ,gothic of this highly interesting church is of the best1 though it dates from various periods4 ,the primitive church1 we know1 was a ,romanesque structure2 but1 beyond the foundations of the western towers1 and possibly other fragmentary works yet hidden1 there is nothing but the most acceptable ,gothic in evidence4 ,illustration3 ,s4 ,,victor',s4 ,,xanten4 ,a distinctly curious feature is the apse-sided termination to the aisles1 radiating from the main apse at an angle of forty-five degrees4 ,it is a distinct innovation in the easterly termination of a church2 a sort of a compromise between the ,french1 ,english1 and ,german styles1 and wholly a successful one4 ,in the chancel is a sort of screen before the high altar1 worked in brass at ,maastricht in #aeja4 ,the windows contain a great deal of beautiful old glass1 and some other that is by no means as good4 ,the clerestory windows are elaborately traceried1 and there is much detail of church furnishings1 a choir screen1 some elaborate stalls1 a little tapestry1--which looks well and is certainly old1--and a modern tiled floor which is not offensive4 ,as is frequently seen in ,germany1 the pillars and shafts have a series of statues superimposed upon them2 always a daring thing to do1 but in this case of far better execution and design than is frequently encountered4 ,before the church is a monument in honour of ,cornelius de ,pauw1 the friend of the great ,frederick1 a canon of the church and a famous spiritual writer4 ,he was born at ,amsterdam in #agci and died at ,xanten in #agii4 ,,xxxii ,,arnheim1 ,,utrecht1 ,,and ,,leyden ,arnheim ,the ,rhine in ,holland is a mighty river4 ,it divides itself into many branches1 all of which make their way to the sea through that country which ,butler in the ,hudibras calls3 ,a land that draws fifty feet of water1 ,in which men live as in the very hold of nature1 ,and when the sea does in upon them break1 ,and drowns a province1 does but spring a leak4 ,the ,rhine proper1 the ,oud ,rijn and the ,neder ,rijn1 enfolds three great ecclesiastical centres of other days1 ,arnheim1 ,utrecht1 and ,leyden4 ,arnheim is the chief town of the ,guelderland1 and seats itself proudly on the banks of the ,neder ,rijn just above its juncture with the ,yssel4 ,of its fifty-five thousand inhabitants1 twenty-five thousand are ,roman ,catholics1 which fact makes it one of the most strongly ,catholic cities1 if not the strongest1 in the ,netherlands4 ,formerly the city was known as the ,arenacum of the ,romans1 and served as the residence of the ,dukes of the ,guelderland up to #aech4 ,in #aegi it gave adherence to the ,union of ,utrecht1 and in #afgb was taken by the ,french1 when it became one of the principal fortresses of ,holland4 ,to-day the fortifications serve the purpose to which they are so frequently devoted in the cities and towns of ,continental ,europe1 and form a fine series of promenades4 ,in #ahac the town was taken by the ,prussians1 but in spite of all this changing of hands1 it remains to-day as distinctly ,dutch as any of the ,low ,country cities and towns4 ,its houses are well built of brick and equally well kept1 and its sidewalks are as cleanly and well cared for as the courtyard of a palace4 ,to-day the aspect of ,arnheim is that of a quaint though modern-looking ,dutch city4 ,it is a favourite place of residence for messieurs du sucre1--rich ,hollanders and ,orientals from the ,dutch ,east ,indies4 ,altogether the atmosphere of its streets and cafs is decidedly cosmopolitan and most interesting4 ,illustration3 ,,general ,,view of ,,arnheim ,the ,groote ,kerk1 built in #adeb1 rises from the market-place with a considerable purity of ,gothic style4 ,the church was formerly dedicated to ,st4 ,eusebe4 ,its tower is a landmark for miles around1 and rises to a height approximating three hundred feet4 ,it is built of brick and is square for the first two tiers1 flanked with sustaining buttresses1 then it tapers off into an octagon4 ,it contains a fine set of chimes1 so frequently an adjunct to the churches and municipal belfries of the ,low ,countries4 ,the interior presents a great ogival example of the best of fourteenth and fifteenth century church-building4 ,to-day1 since the church belongs to the ,protestants1 much that stood for symbolism in the ,roman ,church is wanting1 and the pulpit1 which is an admirable work of art in itself1 is placed in the middle of the choir surrounded by numerous tribunes1 or seats in tiers1 in quite a parliamentary and non-churchly fashion4 ,behind the choir is a monument to ,charles d',egmont1 ,duke of ,guelderland1 who died in #aech1 and whose tomb is at ,utrecht4 ,as a work of art this monument in the ,groote ,kerk at ,arnheim is much more worthy than such monuments usually are4 ,the duke is represented clothed in armour and reclining between six lions1 which hold aloft his escutcheon4 ,the pedestal is ornamented with bas-reliefs representing the ,holy ,family1 the twelve apostles1 ,st4 ,christopher1 and two other saints4 ,on a pillar at the left of the tomb is suspended1 in a sort of wooden cage1 another figure of the same prince4 ,the effigy is of painted wood and is amazingly lifelike1 though smacking decidedly of the figures in a waxworks exhibition4 ,the chevet of this great church is quite worthy of consideration1 though by no means as amply endowed as the ,french variety by which one comes to judge all others4 ,altogether1 except for the poverty of deeply religious symbolism in the interior1 of which it has doubtless been despoiled since the ,catholic religion has waned in its power here1 the church is a lovely and lovable example of the appealing church edifices which one now and then comes across in ,continental cities of the third rank4 ,the ,catholic cult occupy the church of ,st4 ,walburge1 a ,gothic edifice in brick of the fourteenth century4 ,at the portal are two great symmetrical towers which are worthy of a far more important edifice4 ,the interior is entirely modern as to its furnishings and fitments4 ,on four pillars of the nave are placed1 back to back1 statues of the evangelists1--a species of decorative embellishment which1 at all times since the fifteenth century1 has been greatly favoured throughout ,germany and the ,low ,countries4 ,in ,france it is a feature but seldom seen1 and1 among the smaller parish churches1 has almost its only examples at ,vetheuil on the ,seine below ,paris1 and at ,louviers4 ,the high altar is modern1 as are also the black and white marble baptismal fonts4 ,the pulpit is quite a grand affair1 though modern also4 ,its sounding-board shows a figure of ,moses holding aloft the tables of the law4 ,it is admirably conceived and executed1 and is of much artistic merit4 ,arnheim possesses several other religious edifices2 but1 as satisfactory expressions of ecclesiastical art or architecture1 they are quite unworthy4 ,the only one worthy of remark--and that only for its unseemliness--is a modern ,protestant place of worship in the form of a vast rotunda1 which in all respects resembles a great building enclosing a panorama4 ,behind the chevet of the ,groote ,kerk1 the ancient cathedral1 is a fine old-time house of the sixteenth century4 ,it is known1 somewhat sacrilegiously one thinks1 as the ,maison du ,diable1 and was formerly the residence of a famous brigand or highwayman1--if there be any subtle distinction between the two4 ,this brigand was moreover of the nobility1 and was known as ,martens van ,rosum1 ,duke of the ,guelderland4 ,in front of the house is a miniature terrace1 and1 on the walls above1 to the right1 are three monstrous effigies of devils1 as well as one of a woman4 ,in the centre1 upon a pillar1 is a bust of ,van ,rosum1 and an inscription to the effect that the house was restored in #ahcj4 ,to-day it is occupied by certain municipal offices4 ,utrecht ,in many respects ,utrecht was1 in the past1 the most important city in ,holland1 not commercially1 but politically4 ,to-day it is simply the capital of the province of ,utrecht1 the seat of a ,catholic archbishop1 and of a ,jansenist archbishop as well4 ,of its population of quite a hundred thousand souls1 one-third1 at least1 are of the ,catholic profession1 which is an astonishing proportion for a city of ,holland4 ,for this reason1 perhaps1 the city remains the metropolis of the ,catholic religion in the ,netherlands4 ,the environs of the city are exceedingly picturesque4 ,the ,rhine again divides into two branches1 the ,oud ,rijn continuing to the ,north ,sea1 through ,leyden1 and the other branch1 known thenceforth as the ,vecht1 flowing into the ,zuyder ,zee4 ,utrecht is one of the most ancient cities of the ,netherlands1 having been founded under ,nero by a ,roman ,senator named ,antony1 hence it is frequently referred to by historians as ,antonia ,civitas4 ,its name in time evolved itself into ,trajectum inferius or vetus1 and in the ,latin nomenclature of the early middle ages1 it became ,ultrajectum1 or ,trajectum ,ultricensium4 ,under the ,franks it was called ,wiltrecht1 which was but a short step to the name it now bears4 ,king ,dagobert here founded the first church in ,friesland1 with ,st4 ,willibrod as bishop1 and ,st4 ,boniface1 before he was called to ,rome1 here preached evangelization4 ,the city was ruined and devastated in the seventh century1 but its rebuilding was begun in #gah by ,clothaire ,,iv4 ,toward #icd it was surrounded by protecting walls by ,bishop ,baldric of ,clves4 ,utrecht was frequently made the residence of the emperors1 and ,charles ,v4 there built the chteau of ,vreeburg1 a species of fortress-chteau that was demolished by the burghers of the city at the beginning of the war of independence1 #aegg4 ,adrien ,florizoon1 the preceptor of ,charles ,v41 who1 at the death of ,leo ,x41 occupied the pontifical throne in #aebb-bc as ,adrien ,,vi41 was born at ,utrecht4 ,his house 7,paushuizen7 on the banks of the canal ,nieuwe ,gracht1 now a government building1 contains many pictures relative to his life and times4 ,for a long time the city was only a bishop's seat1 but in #aeei it was made an archbishopric4 ,when1 in #fcj1 ,dagobert1 ,king of ,austrasia1 founded a chapel here1 the religious foundation of the city began1 and as early as in #fif it became the seat of a bishop4 ,in the ninth century the ,normans sacked the town1 but thenceforth the bishops1 who were then suffragans of ,lige1 acquired a strength and power which assured the city freedom from molestation for a long time4 ,in the sixteenth century political and religious dissension combined to promote a state of unrest which was most acute4 ,in #aegg the party which had allied itself with the ,prince of ,orange introduced religious reform1 and in #aegi the seven provinces of ,holland formed their compact of federation1 and the ,states ,general held their sittings here4 ,the ,domkerk1 or cathedral1 originally dedicated to ,st4 ,martin1 is to-day a ,protestant church4 ,it was an outgrowth of the primitive church founded in #fcj by ,dagobert ,i41 and of an abbey established by ,st4 ,willibrod4 ,the cathedral of ,st4 ,martin was rebuilt1 after a fire in #ajbd1 by ,bishop ,adebolde1 in the presence of the ,emperor ,henry ,,ii4 and many other great personages1 as the old chroniclers have it4 ,in #abeg it was nearly entirely rebuilt by the bishop then holding the see1 ,henri of ,vianden1 but a great storm crushed in its nave in #afgd1 since which time the faulty juncture of the various parts has been sadly apparent4 ,after the destruction of the nave1 the choir and the transepts formed practically the entire building1 with the tower existing merely as a dismembered and orphaned feature4 ,the tower was commenced in #acca and completed in #achb4 ,it rises from a magnificently vaulted base4 ,the lower portion is rectangular1 but the octagon which forms the upper stages and pierced to the light of day1 as the ,french have it1 follows the best accepted style of its era4 ,in its way it is1 although quite different1 the rival of ,st4 ,ouen's ,crown of ,normandy at ,rouen4 ,there are #dec steps to be mounted if one cares to ascend to the platform1 #ajc metres from the ground4 ,one gets the usual bird's-eye view1 with this difference1 that the glance of the eye seems to reach out into an interminable distance1 by reason of the general flatness of the country4 ,one sees1 at any rate1 quite all of the provinces of ,south ,holland1 with the ,zuyder ,zee to the north1 and a part of ,guelderland and ,north ,brabant4 ,the tower possesses also a fine set of chimes of forty-two bells which is reminiscent of ,belgium2 but1 unlike those in the famous old belfry at ,bruges1 the chimes on the ,domkerk at ,utrecht do not ring out popular marches or the airs of popular songs4 ,the interior is so crowded with benches1 similar to what ,english churchgoing people know as pews1 that its original aspect is somewhat changed4 ,eighteen great pillars hold aloft the vaulting of the choir and transepts4 ,illustration3 ,,utrecht and ,its ,,cathedral ,a notable tomb in black and white marble is that of ,admiral van ,gent 7#afgf71 and another is that of ,bishop ,georges d',egmont 7#aedi74 ,in the vault beneath the edifice were buried the viscera of ,conrad ,,ii4 and ,henry ,v41 who died at ,utrecht1 and whose remains1 with this exception1 were transported to ,speyer4 ,a fine ,gothic cloister connects the cathedral with the university4 ,this has1 in recent years1 undergone restoration of a most practical and devoted kind4 ,it is a marvel of modern architectural work4 ,st4 ,peter's is another ancient ,roman ,catholic church now devoted to ,protestant uses4 ,st4 ,john's also comes under this category4 ,it is a fine example of a small ,gothic church of the variety which was best known only in ,holland and ,belgium2 much more severe than the ,french species1 but interesting withal4 ,within the walls of this last are two tombs quite worthy of attention and remark4 ,the one against the western wall is that of a cardinal who died in the fifteenth century1 and the other is that of ,balthazar ,frederick of ,stoech4 ,the latter1 though dating only from the eighteenth century1 is charmingly sculptured1 and has two superb figures of weeping children done in marble4 ,the ,roman ,catholic church of ,st4 ,catherine is a ,gothic edifice of the third ogival period1 and was restored in #ahhj at the expense of a devout ,catholic of the city1 named ,van den ,brink4 ,the walls are decorated in a polychromatic scheme1 which is not beautiful1 though undeniably striking4 ,the jube1 by ,mengelberg of ,utrecht1 is distinctly good4 ,utrecht possesses in the ,aartsbisschoppelyk ,museum an establishment unique among the museums of the world4 ,particularly it shows all branches of religious art1 and is of great importance to all who study the art and architecture of the ,netherlands4 ,of the secular establishments one remarks the university which adjoins the cathedral4 ,it dates from #afcf1 and has to-day five faculties4 ,in the palace1 constructed for ,louis ,bonaparte during the ,napoleonic overflow1 is a magnificent library of #aaj1jjj volumes and #a1ejj ,,mss4 ,the ancient academy1 the arch-episcopal palace1 the ,palais de ,justice1 the ,stadt ,huis1 the ,paushuizen 7,prefecture71 the mint1 with a rich numismatic collection1 and the ,association of ,arts and ,sciences complete the list of the city's notable monuments4 ,leyden ,with ,leyden the ,rhine may be said to take its leave of ancient civilization1 though it only joins the briny waters of the ,north ,sea at ,katwyck1 a dozen kilometres distant1 after having formed a natural frontier for nearly eleven hundred kilometres1 from its ,alpine cradle in the canton of ,grisons4 ,anciently ,leyden was the ,lugdunum ,batavorum of the ,romans1 and1 according to the old-time historians1 was the most ancient city of ,holland4 ,later its name became ,leithen1 from which its present nomenclature is evolved4 ,its great importance came with the thirteenth century and endured until the ,spanish wars4 ,the city was besieged by the ,spaniards in #aegd1 and delivered therefrom by the ,prince of ,orange in the year following4 ,to-day the plan of ,leyden forms a regular pentagon1 with long streets and boulevards1 all characteristically ,dutch1 with old-time and modern houses alike built with queer gabled roofs1 giving quite a medival aspect to an otherwise lively and up-to-date little city4 ,the city is traversed from east to west by the ,oud ,rijn1 which throws out many arms and branches and gives to the place a most ,venetian appearance4 ,one distinctive feature of the topographical aspect of ,leyden1 and one which is universal in most of the cities of ,holland1 are the canals which cross and recross the principal streets4 ,all is plus propres1 as the ,french have it1 and the tree-bordered1 cobblestoned quays are not the least of the town's attractions for the stranger4 ,unquestionably the chief architectural treasure of ,leyden is the ,stadt ,huis4 ,it is of the style which may best be called ,dutch1 and is a reconstruction of #aeig4 ,in front of the ,stadt ,huis are a pair of gaudily coloured stone lions1 which have looked down for a matter of three hundred years on the ,pilgrim ,fathers1 some of whom had gathered and settled here previous to going to the ,new ,world1 on ,oliver ,goldsmith1 on ,boswell1 on ,evelyn1 and on many other ,englishmen who attended the famous university here4 ,one learns that these lions were once properly coloured beasts1--at least of the conventional tone of stone sculptured animals1 and that they were only recently painted a gaudy vermilion1 which apparently is not a very durable colour1 as in these days they seem to shed and don their coats with surprising frequency4 ,the chief ecclesiastical monuments of ,leyden are the church of ,st4 ,peter1 of the thirteenth to sixteenth century1 a vast ,latin cross of not very good ,gothic2 and ,st4 ,pancras1 of the thirteenth century1 built1 curiously enough1 on the ground-plan of a ,st4 ,andrew's cross4 ,st4 ,peter's was built in #abba1 but in #aeab its great tower fell and was replaced by the present one1 which rises high above the rest of the fabric4 ,in truth1 there is not much of interest to be derived from a contemplation of the church except the memory of the great names of those interred therein1 which form a veritable category of those who became famous in matters ecclesiastic1 artistic1 and scientific1 in ,holland's roll of fame4 ,near ,st4 ,peter's is a thirteenth-century edifice now used as a prison4 ,in olden times it served as the residence of the ,counts of ,holland1 the name ,gravenstein on the ancient structure signifying the house of the count4 ,the church of ,st4 ,pancras is an ogival edifice built in #abhj4 ,it has no remarkably artistic attributes1 and its chief interest consists in the fact that it contains the tomb of ,van der ,werf1 the courageous burgomaster1 who1 in #aegd1 so heroically defended the city4 ,he was born at ,leyden in #aebi and died in #afjd4 ,leyden may be called the learned city of ,holland4 ,in recognition of having withstood a siege by the ,spaniards of #aca days1 the city was given the choice between exemption from taxation or the foundation of a university1 and chose the latter4 ,the city is the birthplace of many men famous in ,dutch art1 among them ,lucas de ,leyde1 ,rembrandt1 ,gerard ,dow1 ,g4 ,metsu1 ,j4 van ,goyen4 ,here also was born the celebrated anabaptist known as ,john of ,leyden4 ,,the ,,end4 ,appendix ,chronological ,tables and ,diagrams ,,aix-,,la-,,chapelle ,illustration3 ,round ,church in the ,i,xth ,century1 ,aix-la-,chapelle ,charlemagne died at ,aix-la-,chapelle1 #had ,charlemagne's original chapel founded1 ,v,i,i,ith century ,damaged by fire1 #aadf1 #abcd1 #abcf1 #afef ,choir begun1 #acec ,choir completed1 ,x,i,vth century ,minorite church1 ,x,i,vth to ,x,vth century ,,andernach ,illustration ,foundation of primitive church1 ,xth century ,st4 ,genevieve1 ,x,i,i,ith century ,coloured bas-relief of portal1 ,x,v,ith century ,lahnstein tomb1 #aeda ,,arnheim ,city gave adherence to ,union of ,utrecht1 #aegi ,taken by the ,french1 #afgb ,taken by the ,prussians1 #ahac ,groote ,kerk founded1 #adeb ,main portions of ,groote ,kerk1 ,x,i,vth and ,x,vth centuries ,st4 ,walburge1 ,x,i,vth century ,monument of ,duke of ,guelderland1 ,x,v,ith century ,maison du ,diable 7restored #ahcj71 ,x,v,ith century ,,bacharach ,,and ,,bingen ,protestant temple1 ,bacharach1 ,x,i,ith century ,chteau of ,archbishops of ,mayence at ,asmanhausen1 ,x,i,i,ith century ,mouse ,tower1 ,x,i,i,ith century ,,basel ,councils of the ,church held here1 #ajfa and #adca ,cathedral founded by ,henry ,,ii41 #ajaj ,cathedral dedicated1 #ajai ,bridge crossing the ,rhine1 #abbj ,council-chamber1 #adca-dd ,baptismal font1 #adfe ,north tower 7#ff metres71 #aejj ,university founded by bull of ,pius ,,ii41 ,x,v,ith century ,,bonn ,illustration ,primitive church founded by the mother of ,constantine1 #cai ,present cathedral choir and crypt1 #aaeg ,main fabric1 ,x,i,ith and ,x,i,i,ith centuries ,the ,electors of ,cologne came to reside at ,bonn1 #abfh ,,boppart ,hauptkirche built1 #abjj 787 ,carmeliterkirche built1 ,x,v,ith century ,boppart made a ville impriale1 ,x,i,vth century ,,cl,,ves ,sacked by the ,normans1 ,i,xth century ,,coblenz ,illustration ,st4 ,castor founded by ,louis the ,pious1 #hcf ,lower ranges of towers1 ,x,ith century ,reconciliation of ,henry ,,iv4 with his sons1 #aaje ,st4 ,bernard preached ,crusades here1 ,x,i,ith century ,bridge crossing the ,moselle1 #acdd ,,colmar ,st4 ,martin's foundations1 ,x,i,i,ith century ,st4 ,martin's choir1 #acae ,virgin of the ,roses1 ,x,vth century ,dominican ,convent of ,unterlinden1 #abcb ,,cologne ,illustration3 ,ancient ,cathedral ,romanesque cathedral destroyed by fire1 #abdh ,foundation-stone of new cathedral laid1 #abdh ,charter mentioning ,st4 ,trond1 #abeg ,choir consecrated1 #acbb ,work stagnated1 ,x,vth and ,x,v,ith centuries ,work again undertaken1 ,x,v,i,ith century ,renaissance details added to choir1 ,x,v,i,i,ith century ,illustration3 ,present ,cathedral ,napoleon transferred archbishopric to ,aix1 ,x,i,xth century ,see restablished at ,cologne1 #ahba ,restoration begun and choir reopened1 #ahdb ,reliques of the ,three ,kings first brought from ,milan1 #aafd ,tapestries in choir1 ,x,vth century ,glass in ,chapel of the ,three ,kings1 ,x,vth century ,organ-case1 #aegb ,candelabra of choir1 #aggj ,nave consecrated1 #ahdh ,wall between nave and choir broken out1 #ahfc ,spires of towers added1 #ahgj ,spires completed1 #ahhj ,petrarch visited ,cologne1 #acca ,marie de ,medici died at ,cologne1 #afdb ,illustration3 ,st4 ,maria in ,capitolia ,illustration3 ,st4 ,cunibert's ,st4 ,maria in ,capitolia 7nave71 ,x,ith century ,st4 ,maria in ,capitolia 7apses71 ,x,i,ith century ,st4 ,pantaleon1 #ihj ,apostles' ,church1 ,x,ith century ,st4 ,gron's 7primitive church71 ,vth century ,jews driven from ,cologne1 #adbe ,protestants driven from ,cologne1 #afah ,abbey of ,altenburg 7glass71 #abgj-acjj ,abbey of ,altenburg 7choir71 #abee ,illustration3 ,st4 ,martin's ,illustration3 ,church of the ,apostles ,illustration3 ,st4 ,gron's ,illustration3 ,crypt1 ,st4 ,gron's ,,constance ,illustration ,city founded by ,emperor ,constance1 #big ,ville impriale1 ,xth century ,peace between ,barbarossa and ,lombardy1 #aahc ,cathedral founded1 ,x,ith century ,bishop ,salomon occupied the see1 #hia-iai ,st4 ,stephen's enlarged by ,bishop ,salomon1 #ijj ,further embellished by ,bishop ,conrad of ,altdorf1 #ice ,renovated by ,bishop ,theodoric1 #ajdg-ea ,council-chamber built1 #achh ,roof of nave and aisles 7in wood71 #afjj ,council concerning the three popes1 #adad-ah ,council condemning ,john ,huss1 #adad ,john ,huss burned alive1 #adae ,reconstructed by ,bishop ,otto ,,iii41 #adbh ,consecrated to the ,lutherites1 #aebb-dh ,organ and case 7restored #ahai and #ahci71 #aehc ,catholicism restablished at ,constance1 #aeej ,,dortmund ,st4 ,mary's1 ,x,i,ith century ,st4 ,reinhold's nave and transepts1 ,x,i,i,ith century ,st4 ,reinhold's choir1 ,x,vth century ,pfarrkirche1 ,x,i,vth century ,,emmerich ,st4 ,martin's ,xth century ,,essen ,romanesque details of cathedral1 #hgd ,crypt1 transept1 and choir foundation1 ,x,ith century ,seven-branched candlestick1 #ajjc ,gothic additions1 ,x,i,vth century ,,frankfort ,first historical mention1 #gid ,juden ,gasse1 #affb ,cathedral completed1 ,x,i,vth century ,tomb of ,emperor ,gunther of ,schwarzburg1 #acdi ,tomb of ,knight of ,sachsenhausen1 #acga ,late ,gothic western tower 7#afc feet71 #adae-aeji ,tomb of ,consul ,hirde1 #aeah ,st4 ,leonard's1 ,x,i,i,ith century ,st4 ,catherine's ,x,v,i,ith century ,st4 ,paul's1 #ahcc ,,freiburg ,illustration3 ,cathedral1 ,freiburg ,city founded by ,berthold ,,iii41 #aaah ,cathedral founded by the same1 #aabb ,nave and restored choir1 ,x,i,i,ith century ,cathedral finally completed1 #aeac ,benedictine ,convent of ,taennenbach1 ,x,i,ith century ,cloister of parish church1 ,x,i,vth century ,,godesberg ,given to ,archbishop of ,cologne1 #abaj ,chapel of ,st4 ,michal1 ,x,i,i,ith century ,chteau of archbishops pillaged1 #aeic ,,heidelberg ,conrad of ,hohenstaufen1 first ,count ,palatinate1 #aadh ,heidelberg made capital of the ,palatinate1 #abbh ,st4 ,esprit's1 ,x,i,vth to ,x,vth century ,house of the ,chevalier zum ,ritter1 #adib ,university 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