,rembr&t's ,am/]dam    ,repr9t$1 by     
p]mission ( ,museum ( ,f9e ,arts1       
,bo/on1 f 8,!  ,pr9t-,collector's       
,qu>t]ly0      ,frits ,lugt             
,museum ( ,f9e ,arts1 ,bo/on  #aiae     
,,cont5ts      ,map ,key  ,,rembr&t',s  
,,am/]dam  ,footnotes                   
,,illu/rations      ,,plan ,,( ,,!      
,,city ,,( ,,am/]dam ,,ab\t #afej       
,plate #a4 ,view ( ,am/]dam f ! ,ea/4   
7rev]s$74 ,aft] ! et*+  by ,rembr&t     
,plate #b4 ,! ,old ,t[n ,hall 9         
,am/]dam4 ,aft] an engrav+ by ,cl4 ,jz4 
,viss*]4  ,plate #c4 ,! ,ru9s ( ! ,old  
,t[n ,hall 9 ,am/]dam1 aft] ! ,fire 9   
#afeb4 ,aft] ! draw+ by ,rembr&t1 =m]ly 
9 ! ,heselt9e  ,collection1 n[ 9 !      
,rembr&t ,h\se 9 ,am/]dam4  ,plate #d4  
,! ,new ,t[n-,hall 9 ,am/]dam1 ab\t     
#affj4  ,! squ>e build+  on ! "r is !   
public ,weigh+-,h\se1 :]e ,rembr&t      
sket*$ !  ru9s ( ! old t[n-hall 7see    
prec$+ illu/ration74  ,aft] an et*+  by 
,j4 van d] ,ulft1 #afef4  ,plate #e4 ,! 
,bridge ,call$ 8,grimnessesluis0 9      

,am/]dam4  ,aft] !  draw+ by ,rembr&t 9 
! ,l\vre1 ,p>is4  ,reproduc$1 by        
p]mission1  f a copyright photograph by 
,messrs4 ,braun & ,co41 ,dorna*4  ,plate
 #f4 ,view ( ! ,ramp>ts ( ,am/]dam1 ) ! 
,/4 ,an?ony-,gate 9  ! ,di/ance4  ,aft] 
! draw+ by ,rembr&t1 =m]ly 9 ! ,heselt9e
  ,collection4  ,plate #g4 ,mills on !  
,we/ ,side ( ,am/]dam1 ,look+ ,t[>d !   
,t[n4  ,aft] ! draw+ by ,rembr&t1 =m]ly 
9 ! ,heselt9e ,collection1 n[  9 a      
private collection 9 ,kop5hag54  ,plate 
#h4 ,view ( ! ,same ,side ( ,t[n z 9    
,plate #g1 b ,look+ ,outw>d4  ,! t[] on 
! left is ! same z sket*$ by ,rembr&t   
7plate #ac74  ,aft] an et*+ by ,r4      
,zeeman1 ab\t #afej4  ,plate #i4 ,! ,t[]
 ,call$ 8,montelraan/or50 ,9 ,am/]dam   
,aft] !  draw+ by ,rembr&t1 =m]ly 9 !   
,heselt9e ,collection1 n[ 9 !  ,rembr&t 
,h\se1 ,am/]dam  ,plate #aj4  ,! ,same  
,t[] z 9 ! ,prec$+ ,illu/ration1 ) its  
,/eeple & ,surr\nd+s4 ,aft] an et*+ by  
,r4 ,zeeman1 ab\t #afej4  ,plate #aa4 ,!
 ,canal call$ 8,s+el0 9 ,am/]dam4 ,on ! 

left-h& side  ,rembr&t's son1 ,titus1   
liv$ dur+ 8 %ort m>ri$ life4  ,9 !      
di/ance1 ! 8,janroopoort/or504  ,aft] an
 et*+ by ,r4 ,zeeman1 ab\t  #afej4      
,plate #ab4 ,! ,t[] call$               
8,swyght-,utre*t01 & ! 8,doel50 9       
,am/]dam  7see plate #bj74 ,aft] ! draw+
 by ,rembr&t 9 ! collection ( ,dr4  ,c4 
,h(/$$ de ,groot1 ,! ,hague4  ,plate    
#ac4 ,! ,t[] ,call$ 8,we/]tor50 ,9      
,am/]dam4 ,aft] ! draw+  by ,rembr&t1 9 
! ,fodor ,museum1 ,am/]dam  ,plate #ad4 
,! ,canal call$ 8,pr9s5gra*t0 9         
,am/]dam4 ,! t[] se5 on  ! left is !    
same z se5 9 ! prec$+ illu/ration4      
,aft] an  et*+ by ,r4 ,zeeman1 ab\t     
#afej4  ,plate #ae4 ,! ,/4              
,an?ony-,m>ket 9 ,am/]dam1 ) ! ,old     
,gate  ,trans=m$ into a ,weigh+-,h\se4  
,aft] an et*+ by ,r4 ,zeeman1 ab\t      
#afej4  ,plate #af4 ,rembr&t's ,h\se ,9 
,! 8,/4 ,an?onie-bree/raat0 ,9 ,am/]dam 
,on ! left3 ,z x mu/ h look$ :5 ,rembr&t
 occupi$ x4 ,on !  "r3 ,pres5t /ate4    
,plate #ag4  ,! ,bridge & ,sluice call$ 

8,/4 ,an?onie-sluis0 9 ,am/]dam1  se5 f 
! ,nor?4 ,rembr&t's home 7plate #af7    
/ood 9 ! imm$iate  vic9ity ( ?is spot4  
,aft] ! draw+ by ,a4 ,wat]loo1 9 !      
,fodor  ,museum1 ,am/]dam4  ,plate #ah4 
,! 8doel5/raat0 ,9 ,am/]dam 7old        
situation7 ,! rec$+  build+1 beh9d ! l[ 
wall ) gate1 on ! "r1 is ! 8,doel50 =   
:i* ,rembr&t pa9t$ 8,! ,night ,wat*40 ,!
 h\se :]e ! ma/]  liv$ 9 #afcf 0 next to
 ! h\se se5 on ! extreme "r4 ,! t[]  se5
 above ! ro( is ! "o sket*$ by ,rembr&t 
7plate #ab74 ,comp>e  also plate #bj    
,aft] ! draw+ by ,r4 ,v9keles 9 !       
,ar*ives 9  ,am/]dam  ,plate #ai4 ,!    
,back ( ! ,h\ses 9 ! 8,doel5/raat0 9    
,am/]dam4 ,!  n>r[ h\se 9 ! middle1 two 
w9d[s wide1 is1 al?\gh rebuilt1 !  "o   
:]e ,rembr&t liv$ 9 #afcf4  ,to ! left1 
"p ( ,messrs4 ,fr$]k  ,mull]  ,co4's    
aution & exhibition rooms4  ,plate #bj4 
,! ,t[] 8,swyght-,utre*t0 & ! ,backs ( !
 ,h\ses ( !  8,doel5/raat0 9 ,am/]dam4  
,! ?ird h\se f ! t[] mu/ be !  "o       
occupi$ by ,rembr&t 9 #afcf4  ,aft] an  

engrav+ by van ,meurs (  ab\t #affj4    
,plate #ba4 ,! ,old ,ex*ange 9 ,am/]dam4
 ,aft] an engrav+ by ,cl4 ,jz4  ,viss*]4
  ,plate #bb4 ,! ,inn ,call$ 8de ,keiz]s
 ,kroon0 ,9 ,! ,kalv]/raat1  ,am/]dam4  
,"h ,rembr&t's collections 7 sold by    
auction1 aft] 8  bankruptcy1 9 #afeg &  
#ajeh4 ,aft] an anonym\s draw+ 9 !      
,ar*ives  9 ,am/]dam4  ,plate #bc4 ,!   
,h\se ,( ,mr4 ,f4 ,bann+ ,cocq 7!       
,capta9 ,& ,prom95t  ,p]son ,9          
,rembr&t's 8,night-wat*07 ,9 ,am/]dam   
,aft] an anonym\s  draw+ 9 ! family     
ar*ives ( ,jhr4 ,d4 de ,graeff at ,!    
,hague  ,plate #bd4 ,! ,/> ( ! ,k+s4    
,*ildr5 be=e a /reet door on            
,epiphany-ev5+4  ,aft] ! draw+ by       
,rembr&t1 9 ! ,briti% ,museum1  ,london4
  ,salt+ ,beque/4  ,plate #be4 ,*ildr5  
,re=e ,a ,/reet ,door3 ,! ,"o ,9 ,!     
,middle ,) ,a  8,rommelpot04 ,aft] !    
draw+ by ,rembr&t1 9 ! ,briti% ,museum1 
,london  ,plate #bf4 ,a ,quacksalv] on a
 ,m>ket-,place4  ,aft] ! draw+ by       
,rembr&t4  ,9 ! collection ( ,fr$]i*    

,augu/ ,,ii1 9 ,dresd54  ,plate #bg4    
,portrait ,( ,jan ,lutma4  ,f an        
impression1 9 ! ,fir/ ,/ate1  (         
,rembr&t's et*+1 9 ! ,museum ( ,f9e     
,arts1 ,bo/on4                          
,plan ( ! ,city ( ,am/]dam ab\t #afej   
,,plan ,,( ,,! ,,city ,,( ,,am/]dam     
,,ab\t #afej          ,,map ,,key       
image      ,l9e indicat+ ! ext5sion ( ! 
t[n1 />t$ dur+ ! la/ t5                 
ye>s ( ,rembr&t's life4            #a4  
,h\se ( ! pa9t] ,piet] ,la/man1 ! ma/] (
 ,rembr&t1 9        ! 8,/4              
,an?onie-bree/raat40  ,9 ! same /reet 0 
! h\se (        ! deal] ,h5drick        
,uyl5burgh1 ) :om ,rembr&t /ay$ dur+    
! fir/ ye>s aft] 8 settlem5t 9 ,am/]dam4
        #b4 ,h\se 9 ! 8,doel5/raat0 :]e 
,rembr&t liv$ 9 #afcf 7see        plates
 #ah1 #ai1 #bj74        #c4 ,"p ( !     
,am/el :]e ,rembr&t seems to h liv$     
t[>da        #afci4        #d4 ,h\se 9 !
 8,/4 ,an?onie-bree/raat0 7n[ call$     
8,jod5-bree/raat10 ,no4 #d7 occupi$ &   
own$ by ,rembr&t f #afci        until   

#afeh 7see plate #af74  ,on ! canal     
beh9d 0 ! ,synagogue        ( 8 fri5d   
,m5asseh-b5-,israel4  ,! bridge & sluice
 se5 on        plate #ag is ! "o betwe5 
?is r$ numb] & numb] #a4        #e4     
,h\se on ! 8,ros5gra*t0 7n[ ,no4 #ahd7  
:]e ,rembr&t liv$        dur+ ! la/ t5  
ye>s ( 8 life4        #f4 ,!            
8,bloemgra*t0 :]e ,rembr&t is said to h 
us$ a        /ore-h\se z a /udio1       
pr9cipally = 8 pupils1 dur+ 8           
fir/ ye>s 9 ,am/]dam4        #g4 ,!     
place :]e ,rembr&t's son ,titus liv$1 on
 ! 8,s+el10        opposite !           
apple-m>ket1 9 #affh1 dur+ 8 %ort m>ri$ 
life        7see plate #aa74        #h4 
,h\se on ! 8,keiz]sgra*t0 7n[ ,no4 #bjh7
 ( ,dr4 ,nicolaes ,tulp1        !       
pr9cipal p]son 9 ,rembr&t's pa9t+ ,!    
,anatomical        ,lesson4  ,next to   
him liv$ ,dr4 ,a]n\t ,?ol9x1 ^: portrait
 0        et*$ & pa9t$ by ,rembr&t4     
#i4 ,h\se on ! 8,s+el0 7n[ ,nos4        
#adj-adb7 ( ,mr4 ,f4 ,bann+ ,cocq1      
! ,capta9 9 ,rembr&t's ma/]work1 ,!     

,night-wat* 7see plate        #bc74     
#aj4 ,h\se on ! 8,klov5i]sburgwal0 7n[  
,no4 #dg7 9 :i*        app>5tly liv$    
,mr4 ,jan ,six1 a well-kn[n & influ5tial
 p]son 9        ,rembr&t's life1 ^:     
pa9t$ & et*$ portraits c\nt among       
,rembr&t's f9e/ productions4        #aa4
 ,h\se 9 ! 8,kalv]/raat0 7n[ ,no4 #aj7 (
 ! pr9t-deal] &        publi%] ,clem5t  
de ,jonghe ^: portrait ,rembr&t et*$4   
#ab4 ,! old ,/4 ,an?ony-gate1 9         
,rembr&t's days ,public                 
,weigh+-,h\se1 &1 on ! fir/ floor1 !    
seat ( ! ,surgeon's        ,guild1 ( :i*
 ,dr4 ,tulp & ,dr4 ,deyman 7 ! =em54    
#ac4 ,! 8,doel510 meet+-place ( ! ,civic
 ,gu>d1 = :i*        ,rembr&t's         
,nightwat* 0 pa9t$4  ,at its side ! t[]1
        ,swyght-,utre*t 7see plates     
#ah1ai1bj74        #ad4 ,! ,/aalh(1 !   
(fice = :i* ,rembr&t execut$ 8          
celebrat$ picture kn[n z ,! ,syndics4   
#ae4 ,! inn call$ ,de ,keiz]s ,kroon 9 !
 ,kalv]/raat 7n[ ,no4 #ga7        :]e   
,rembr&t's collections 7 sold at        

auction1 aft] 8        bankruptcy1 9    
#afeg & #afeh 7see plate #bb74          
#af4 ,! ,dam1 ) ! t[n-hall on ! "r & !  
,public        ,weigh+-,h\se 9 ! middle 
7see plates #b1c1d74        #ag4 ,!     
bridge call$ ,grimnessesluis 7see plate 
#e74        #ah4 ,! ,/4 ,an?ony-gate    
7see plate #f7 at ! end ( ! /reet       
:]e ,rembr&t liv$4        #ai4 ,! spot  
:]e ,rembr&t has app>5tly sket*$ ! mills
 &        ! views ( ! t[n 7see plate    
#g74        #bj4 ,! t[] call$           
,montelbaan/or5 7see plates #i & #aj7 & 
! bridge f :i* ,rembr&t sket*$ x4       
#ba4 ,! bridge call$ 8,leliebrug10 f :i*
 ,rembr&t sket*$ !        t[] ( ! *ur*  
call$ ,we/]k]k4  ,?is *ur*1 on ! map1   
is betwe5 ! bridge & ! h\se numb]$ #h4  
7,see plate #ac47        ,9 ?is *ur*    
,rembr&t 0 buri$4        #bb4 ,ab\t ?is 
spot ,rembr&t mu/ h f\nd ! subject = 8  
et*+ ,view ( ,am/]dam 7see              
,frontispiece1 plate #a74 ,:5 ?is       
et*+ 0 execut$1 ! tongue ( l&1 ne> !re1 
) ! two        ba/ions1 did n yet exi/4 

#bc4 ,bridge call$ ,blaubrug 7,blue     
,bridge7 :]e ,rembr&t sket*$        !   
p]spective along ! ,am/el riv]4         
#bd4 ,h\ses on ! 8,s+el0 7n[ ,nos4      
#bcd-bcf7 :]e ! caligraph]        ,liev5
 ,willemsz4 ,copp5al1 an intimate fri5d 
( ,rembr&t1 _h 8        s*ool1 &        
probably liv$4        #be4 ,h\se on !   
8,keiz]sgra*t0 7/at$ z ! second h\se f  
! 8,be]5/raat071 :]e ! pa9t] ,johan van 
de ,cappelle1 a        fri5d & f]v5t    
admir] ( ,rembr&t1 liv$ until #affc4    
#bf4 ,h\se 9 ! 8,koe/raat0 7n[ ,no4     
#ae71 :]e ! same pa9t]        liv$ aft] 
#affc4 ,?is h\se1 until !n1 _h be5      
inhabit$ by !        celebrat$ musician 
,sweel9ck & 8 desc5dants4        #bg4   
,h\se on ! 8,lauri]gra*t0 7probably     
betwe5 ! fir/ &        second bridge7   
:]e ,rembr&t's pupil ,gov]t ,fl9ck liv$ 
f        #afdd1 until 8 dea? 9 #affj4   
,t5 ye>s e>li] he 0 /ay+ 9        ! h\se
 ( ! deal] ,h5drick ,uyl5burgh 7see     
above7 :]e        ,rembr&t !n also liv$4
    ,to locate ! h\ses ( "s o!rs (      

,rembr&t's arti/-fri5ds &  pupils is m  
difficult3 ,f]d9& ,bol liv$1 9          
,rembr&t's "t1 on !  ,fluweele burgwal  
7i4e41 on ! map1 ! left-h& side ( !     
canal  numb]$ #bh71 & aft]w>ds 9 ! new  
ext5sion on ! ,keiz]sgra*t  ne> !       
,spiegel/raat4 ,s did ,g]br& van d5     
,eeckfwut1 :o di$ on  ! ,he]5-gra*t ne> 
!  ,viysel/raat4 ,philips ,kon9ck liv$1 
9  ,rembr&t's "t1 on ! ,keiz]sgra*t1 !  
same canal :]e we f\nd  ,tulp & van de  
,cappelle4              ,,rembr&t',s    
,,am/]dam                               
,by ,frits ,lugt                        
,i                     ,plate #a4 ,view 
( ,am/]dam f ! ,ea/4     ,plate #a4     
,view ( ,am/]dam f ! ,ea/4 7rev]s$74    
,aft] ! et*+                            
by ,rembr&t      8,! city seems to float
 ^u ! wat]s & looks l ! sov]eign (  !   
deep4 ,x is cr[d$ ) m]*ants ( e nation &
 its habitants  are !mselves ! mo/ em95t
 m]*ants 9 ! _w4  ,x appe>s1 at  fir/1 n
 to be ! city ( any p>ticul> p1 b to be 
common to  all1 z ! c5tre ( _! comm]ce4 

,! vessels 9 ?is h>b\r are s  num]\s1 z 
almo/ to hide ! wat] 9 :i* !y float2 & !
 ma/s  look at a di/ance l a =e/40      
8,i gaz$1 ) insatiable curiosity1 ^u ?is
 great city1 9 :i*  ev]y?+ 0 9 motion40 
,?is impression ( ,am/]dam by a sev5te5?
 c5tury au?or 7#a7 takes u  back to ! "t
 :5 no rivals _h yet conte/$ ) ! t[n its
  comm]cial monopoly1-- :5 its full &   
radiant display /ruck ! eyes (  e       
visitor4  ,tempt$ ?\gh we feel to recall
 ?is glori\s pa/ 7!  p]iod & direct     
surr\nd+s ( its greate/ pa9t]71 we      
naturally take  ,am/]dam's pres5t /ate z
 a basis1 & 9 do+ s pa9fully notice !   
loss ( preci\s rem9isc5ces :i* ! c\rse (
 "t has inevitably  involv$4  ,b realis+
 t su* loss is n only ! consequ5ce (    
neglect & lack ( respect1 & t to a l>ge 
degree mod]n life )  its diff]5t        
requirem5ts & int5sity =cibly causes    
cruel *anges1 we  mu/ conqu] our regrets
 & r view ) op5 eyes ! vitality (  ! t[n
 & ! r5ew$ en]gy ( its pres5t exi/5ce4  
,sad inde$ is  ! aspect ( t[ns1 kn[n z  

8dead cities10 :i* pres]ve _! old       
ar*itectural appe>ance1 & :]e all life  
seems ext+ui%$4  ,!y are  b _! own %ad[s
 & a p]petual outcry aga9/ ! rev]ses (  
,fate  or ! relaxation ( human en]gy1   
:i* prov$ unable to c>ry on !           
aspirations ( prec$+ g5]ations4         
,=tunately ,am/]dam escap$ ?is          
disgrace1 because its sp>k ( life nev] q
 di$ out2 ! burn+  vig\r ( its          
inhabitants1 :i* 0 in/rum5tal 9 rais+ ! 
t[n's  prosp]ity 9 ! sev5te5? c5tury1   
may seem a high-flam+ fire  comp>$ to ! 
peaceful exi/5ce ( its ri* population 9 
!  eighte5? c5tury2 & x may be true t ! 
=m] en]gy &  ent]prise 7 r$uc$ to gl[+  
emb]s ab\t ! beg9n+ ( !  n9ete5? c5tury2
 b let x be recognis$ t ! same fire     
always  sm\ld]$ & t x is n[ spread+ anew
 ) a sympa!tic  /ubbornness4  ,:5       
,motley says1 9 8 8,hi/ory ( ! ,unit$   
,ne!rl&s10 t ! ,dut* ,republic 0        
8sea-born & sea-su/a9$10 we  h to apply 
?is1 9 ! fir/ place1 to its mo/         
important t[n1  ,am/]dam1 & if we !n    

rememb] t ! suppression ( a nation      
accu/om$ to m>itime pursuits is "o ( !  
r>e/ ?+s 9 hi/ory1 we  %all arrive at a 
bett] und]/&+ ( ,am/]dam's vitality4    
,9 a t[n :]e life s ma9ta9$ its c\rse1  
we _c expect to f9d  :ole qu>t]s        
pres]v$1 j z !y appe>$ 9 ! fir/ half ( !
  sev5te5? c5tury2 ! g5]al disposition (
 ! t[n1 h[ev]1 is s  orig9al & effective
 t its inde/ructible plan surviv$ until 
our  days4  ,!re are 9 ! _w b few t[ns t
 possess su* a *>m+  s+ul>ity1 & ,v5ice 
is probably ! only t[n (f]+ a simil>    
attraction1 al?\gh x diff]s 9 _m        
respects4  ,h5ce1 ,am/]dam's  surname ( 
,! ,v5ice ( ! ,nor? is easily acc\nt$ =1
 & appe>s  already 9 ! writ+s (         
,guicci>d9i1 ! sixte5?-c5tury hi/orian4 
,x is ! wat] t l5ds to ! t[n its peculi>
 *>m1 & :ile "s  canals _h to be fill$ 9
 to create c>riage accommodation 9 ! old
  p>ts1 mo/ 7 pres]v$1 & ?\gh 9 _! wat] 
o!r h\se-fronts  are reflect$1 ! visitor
 c recon/ruct1 )\t great difficulty1 a  
vision ( ,am/]dam 9 ,rembr&t's days4    

,let u (f] "s help to ! visitor 9 8     
ef=ts to revive ! old  t[n 9 8          
imag9ation4  ,su* assi/ance is ne$$1    
because ,am/]dam is  n a place :]e "o   
w\ld pref] to be left alone ) 8 dreams4 
,mod]n life ov]%ad[s ! pa/ to su* an    
ext5t1 t "o _c  transpose "o's self ?ree
 c5turies by simply elim9at+ ! pres5t2  
!re are no ru9s :i* induce u to         
recon/ruct1 9 our m9d1 t :i*  has       
vani%$1 no population :i* has arre/$ its
 progress at ! p]iod  ( its greate/     
prosp]ity4  ,=tunately ! nature (       
,am/]dam's  beauty & orig9ality has n   
*ang$ & f ?is fact e newcom]  may d]ive 
great help 9 8 ef=ts to rebuild ! sc5es 
( bygone  times4    ,fir/ ( all1 let !  
/rang] take into consid]ation t ,rembr&t
 took  up 8 abode 9 ! t[n :5 x 0 rapidly
 gr[+1 & :5 !  picturesqu5ess ( its     
late-m$iaeval appe>ance _h to conc$e to 
grav]  conceptions1 bas$ on ! classics &
 ! ,italian r5aissance4  ,let him       
rememb] t ! ?reefold girdle ( wide      
canals l9$ ) big h\ses1  :i* n[ embraces

 ! old city1 0 at t "t only 9 c\rse (   
con/ruction1 & t less /ately canals     
pres]v$ a m intimate  aspect4  ,^! n>r[]
 wat]ways 9 ! he>t ( ! old t[n1 fill$  )
 b>ges betwe5 quays cr[d$ ) m]*&ise1    
reveal m ! city's  gr[? & nature1--!    
/ately b less lively canals ( a lat]    
ext5sion  typify bett] ! pride & ease   
ensu+ f ! reap$ h>ve/4    ,:5 ,rembr&t  
came to ,am/]dam ab\t #afca he f\nd !   
t[n brok5  ?r\gh its b\nd>ies & new     
qu>t]s ris5 on ! fields outside1 :i*  a 
=m] g5]ation _h kn[n only z mead[s &    
vegetable g>d5s4  ,!  arti/ mu/ h notic$
 _m *anges ev5 s9ce he pass$ 8 ye>s (   
appr5tice%ip 9 ,am/]dam 9 ! /udio (     
,piet] ,la/man1 return+  aga9 to 8      
native t[n ,leyd5 dur+ ! int]m$iate sev5
 or eight  ye>s4    ,until ! p]iod (    
,rembr&t's settl+ 9 ,am/]dam1 ?is city1 
al?\gh  hav+ be5 long ! metropolis ( !  
,nor!rn ,ne!rl&s1 _h n be5  v diff]5t 9 
aspect to o!r important ,dut* t[ns2 its 
sev5te5?-c5tury build+s belong to ! same
 s*ool ( ar*itecture z  ^? ( ! o!r      

cities1 l ,ha>lem1 ,alkma>1 ,leyd54     
,its imm5se  prosp]ity & developm5t z   
,europe's mo/ important seaport s9ce    
ab\t  #afjj1 h[ev]1 orig9at$ a notable  
*ange3 its aspect gradually became  m   
individual1 until 9 ! second "p ( !     
gold5 c5tury x _h  assum$ ! gr&eur wor?y
 ( 8! capital ( ,europe1 ! neighb\rs'   
support & hope10 z our greate/ poet !n  
ju/ly call$ h]4  ,important  build+s & a
 v logically & royally plann$ ext5sion (
 its canals  & /reets 7 ! causes ( ?is  
alt]ation4  ,we d n "k ( any  o!r big   
t[n ( t p]iod s sy/ematically laid out1 
) su* a  pres]vation ( its orig9al      
beauty & ) su* an outspok5 aim to  obta9
 9 its new ?or\ghf>es a simil>          
attraction to ! eyes4  ,( all  ! cities 
( ! ,ne!rl&s none possess$ ! means1 or 7
 =c$ to  und]take su* big works1 z      
,am/]dam4  ,consequ5tly ! be/ ,dut*     
ar*itects ( t "t erect$ _! f9e/ & mo/   
important edifices  9 ,am/]dam1 & v (t5 
exclusively built !re2 & ?is acc\nts  = 
h] assum+ t individual aspect (         

/atel9ess4    ,rembr&t got acqua9t$ 9   
,am/]dam ) two di/9ct ar*itectural      
p]iods3 #a/1 ! "o j clos$ on 8 arrival1 
dom9at$ by ! em95t  ar*itect & sculptor 
,h5drick de ,keys] 7fa!r ( ! celebrat$  
portrait-pa9t] ,?omas de ,keys]72 #b;d1 
! foll[+ p]iod1 influ5c$  by ,jacob van 
,camp54  ,! fir/ p]iod enri*$ ,am/]dam )
 a great  numb] ( build+s1 g5]ally 9 r$ 
brick ) decorations 9 cle>  s&/one1 ( a 
v>i$ & (t5 b>oque appe>ance2 _! /yle1   
al?\gh  bas$ on e>ly sixte5?-c5tury     
,italian r5aissance1 may be call$ a     
typical ,dut* "o1 /rongly p]sonifi$ z x 
01 t[>ds ! end ( !  sixte5? c5tury1 by  
,ne!rl&i% ar*itects1 l ,cornells ,floris
 &  ,vr$eman de ,vries4--,9 ! second    
p]iod1 :5 ! classical /yle aft]         
,palladio became g5]ally accept$1 !     
v>iety ( aspect & ! b>oque  details _h  
to yield to monum5tality & sev]ity4     
,plate #b4 ,! ,old ,t[n ,hall 9         
,am/]dam4      ,plate #b4 ,! ,old ,t[n  
,hall 9 ,am/]dam4 ,aft] an engrav+ by   
,cl4 ,jz4                               

,viss*]4      ,! _s ( ! t[n's           
aspirations is be/ reflect$ 9 h]        
t[n-hall1  :i* m>ks ! culm9at+ po9t ( h]
 evolution 7ab\t #afej74  ,t  impos+    
squ>e build+1 /ill 9 exi/5ce 9          
,am/]dam's c5tre1 call$  ! ,dam1 mu/ be 
famili> to all :o h visit$ ! t[n1 & !   
int]e/$ art-lov] may h not$ t ?is       
build+1 gr& &  magnific5t z x is1 has no
 typical ,dut* "* su* z m>ks  ,am/]dam's
 e>li] build+s4  ,he w h rem>k$ a /rong 
t5d5cy to  ! classic /yle ( ,italy1 & ! 
ri* m>ble sculptures inside mu/  h      
appe>$ to him z belong+ to ano!r s*ool  
?an ! contempor>y  ,dut* pictures1 :i*  
he admir$ 9 ,am/]dam's ,rksmuseum4  ,9  
?is  circum/ance we may f9d ! clue to ! 
di%>mony :i* exi/$ betwe5  ,rembr&t & 8 
surr\nd+s 9 8 lat] ye>s4  ,8 art & ! _s 
( 8 contempor>ies 7 go+ a?w>t ) diff]5t 
aims4  ,:5 !  arti/ settl$ d[n 9        
,am/]dam1 at ! age ( tw5ty-five1        
circum/ances  7 /ill fav\rable to a good
 mutual und]/&+3 ! ambiti\s &  pulsat+  
_s ( ! gr[+ comm]cial city mu/ h felt   

ak9 to !  boi/]\s aspirations ( ! "y1   
gift$ arti/4  ,8 great mat]ial  success 
dur+ ! fir/ ye>s furni%es a pro( ( ?is  
supposition4  ,!n m & m came !          
ali5ation1 & x is mo/ in/ructive to     
comp>e ! diff]5t results at :i* ! arti/ 
& ! intellig5t  population arriv$3 !    
arti/1 guid$ by ! /r5g? ( 8 imm5se      
p]sonality & tal5t1 rema9$ himself1 b 8 
fell[-citiz5s  gradually *ang$ _! ta/e &
 pr$ilections 9 matt]s ( art &          
intellect1 unc]ta9 z !y 7 ( !mselves 9  
^! matt]s4  ,be+  m gift$ z trad]s ?an z
 arti/s1 !y %[$ t %ort-sight$ness  &    
n>r[m9d$ness 9 judg+ _! contempor>y     
arti/s1 :i* s (t5  repeats itself 9     
hi/ory 7ev5 9 our "t674  ,!y 7 unable to
  und]/& ! /r5g? & value ( ! c\ntry's   
native art1 & turn$  to =eign ta/e1 ev5 
to =eign workman%ip1 z 9 ! case ( !     
commission to ,quell9us1 ! ,flemi%      
sculptor1 to execute ! sculptures  9 !  
t[n-hall1 ?us emphasiz+ _! pref]5ce = ! 
s*ool (  ,rub5s & ,van ,dyck above ! "o 
( ,hals & ,rembr&t4  ,?is t5d5cy        

occasion$ a pref]5ce = =eign !ories &   
=ms1 & s we see  betwe5 #afdh & #affj a 
t[n-hall built1 t5 times bigg] ?an ! =m]
  "o & co/+1 accord+ to our money1 ab\t 
tw5ty million guild]s1  result+ 9 a "w (
 art1 impos+ b n ess5tially ,dut*       
7plates  #b1 #c1 #d74     ,plate #c4 ,! 
,ru9s ( ! ,old ,t[n ,hall 9 ,am/]dam1   
aft] ! ,fire 9                          
#afeb4     ,plate #c4 ,! ,ru9s ( ! ,old 
,t[n ,hall 9 ,am/]dam1 aft] ! ,fire 9   
#afeb4 ,aft] ! draw+ by ,rembr&t1 =m]ly 
9 ! ,heselt9e             ,collection1  
n[ 9 ! ,rembr&t ,h\se 9 ,am/]dam4       
,plate #d4 ,! ,new ,t[n-,hall 9         
,am/]dam1 ab\t #affj4    ,plate #d4 ,!  
,new ,t[n-,hall 9 ,am/]dam1 ab\t #affj4 
,! squ>e build+   on ! "r is ! public   
,weigh+-,h\se1 :]e ,rembr&t sket*$ !    
ru9s ( ! old t[n-hall 7see prec$+       
illu/ration74  ,aft] an et*+            
by ,j4 van d] ,ulft1 #afef4             
,plate #e4 ,! ,bridge ,call$            
8,grimnessesluis0 9 ,am/]dam4           
,plate #e4 ,! ,bridge ,call$            

8,grimnessesluis0 9 ,am/]dam4  ,aft] !  
draw+ by ,rembr&t 9 ! ,l\vre1 ,p>is4    
,reproduc$1 by p]mission1        f a    
copyright photograph by ,messrs4 ,braun 
& ,co41 ,dorna*4      ,:at we "k (      
,rembr&t 9 connection ) ,am/]dam's      
t[n-hall  supports ! above !ory3 he     
seems to h lik$ ! old build+1 a         
,late-,go?ic /ructure1 z he sket*$ x    
twice1 once aft] its fire 9  #afeb4  ,on
 ! o!r h&1 :5 9 #affb he executes a l>ge
 decoration =  ! new t[n-hall1 8 "w does
 n agree ) ! ta/e ( 8  contempor>ies &  
is return$ to him 7,! ,plot ( ,claudius 
,civilis1 n[  mu* cut d[n1 9 ! ,museum  
at ,/ockholm74  ,consid]+ ,rembr&t's    
/yle  ( express+ himself 9 8 "w1 we f9d 
_m in/ances to conv9ce u  ( 8 pref]5ce =
 ! ar*itectural =ms ( an e>li] p]iod & (
  8 lack ( sympa?y = ^? :i* 7 introduc$ 
dur+ ! lat] "p  ( 8 life4  ,is x to be  
wond]$ at t he1 ! w>m-feel+ arti/1      
(fspr+ ( a s*ool :i* affect$ ri*ness &  
b>oque1 0 no fri5d  ( a new t5d5cy1 !   
/atel9ess & broadness ( :i* 7 b\nd to   

deg5]ate into coldness & /iffness8      
,look+ ?r\gh 8 draw+s &  et*+s 78       
pictures leave u no t[n-views tak5 f    
nature71 we  occasionally meet views (  
t[n-gates1 old h\ses alone or cr[d$     
toge!r1 mills1 all obvi\sly sket*$ on   
acc\nt ( a *>m ak9 to  ,rembr&t's nature
 b =eign to ! greate/ "p ( ! lay        
population  ( ,am/]dam4   ,"s           
illu/rations w %[ ! ma/]'s pref]5ces3 a 
view on a little old bridge betwe5      
compact h\ses1 a spot call$             
,grimnessesluis1 /ill =m+ n[adays1      
not)/&+ _m lat]  alt]ations1 "o ( ! mo/ 
typical views ( old ,am/]dam 7plate #e74
  ,we mu/ "h resi/ ! temptation (       
reproduc+ "s ( ,rembr&t's  draw+s (     
picturesque t[ngates 7l ^? 9 ! ,l\vre1  
,rksmuseum at  ,am/]dam1 ! collections (
 ,m4 ,bonnat1 ! ,duke ( ,devon%ire1 &   
,teyl] at ,ha>lem717#b7 because ^! appe>
 to h be5 done on an  excursion ?r\gh ! 
,ne!rl&s1 & _c be id5tifi$ ) =m]  gates 
( ,am/]dam2 !re is1 h[ev]1 ano!r draw+1 
m closely  connect$ ) l&scape1 giv+ a   

view ( ,/4 ,an?ony's ,gate1 q ne>       
,rembr&t's h\se1 at ! end ( ! /reet :]e 
he liv$1 tak5 f !  nor? outside ! bulw>k
 7plate #f74  ,on ! opposite side ( !   
t[n  ,rembr&t did t delightful sket* ) !
 _m mills 9 ! =egr\nd  7plate #g74  ,9 !
 city he aga9 sket*$ a =m]              
=tification-t[]1  call$ ,montelba5/or5  
7plate #i71 %[+ to its "r a p]spective (
  ! h>b\r4  ,we miss 9 ?is draw+ !      
/eeple1 ) :i* x _h be5  ornam5t$ s9ce   
#afjf2 ! municipality _h ! good s5se1 :5
 new  ext5sions 7 c>ri$ out 9 ! beg9n+ (
 ! sev5te5? c5tury1  to pres]ve ! old   
=tification-t[]s :i* became useless     
because (  ! ramp>ts /ret*+ f>!r1 & to  
trans=m !m into belfries by  giv+ !m    
graceful /eeples ) c>illons4  ,"s ( !m1 
l ! "o  m5tion$ "h1 h la/$ till our     
days2 & :5 ! /rang] is kept  awake at   
night1 9 8 hotel1 by ! gay clangor ( _! 
bells1 he may  grumble at !m1 unus$ z he
 is to _! music1 b :5 he he>s !m 9      
daytime he %\ld respect ^!              
?ree-c5turies-old tones & m$itate  l    

,rossetti1 :5 he 0 impress$ by ,van     
,eyck's & ,meml+'s works 9  ,bruges3--  
,! c>illon1 :i* !n did /rike      ,m9e  
e>s1 0 he>d ( !irs alike2      ,x set me
 clos] unto !m4      ,plate #f4 ,view ( 
! ,ramp>ts ( ,am/]dam1 ) ! ,/4          
,an?ony-,gate 9                         
! ,di/ance4     ,plate #f4 ,view ( !    
,ramp>ts ( ,am/]dam1 ) ! ,/4            
,an?ony-,gate 9   ! ,di/ance4  ,aft] !  
draw+ by ,rembr&t1 =m]ly 9 ! ,heselt9e  
,collection4       ,plate #g4 ,mills on 
! ,we/ ,side ( ,am/]dam1 ,look+ ,t[>d ! 
,t[n      ,plate #g4 ,mills on ! ,we/   
,side ( ,am/]dam1 ,look+ ,t[>d ! ,t[n4  
,aft] ! draw+ by ,rembr&t1 =m]ly 9 !    
,heselt9e ,collection1 n[               
9 a private collection 9 ,kop5hag54     
,plate #h4 ,view ( ! ,same ,side ( ,t[n 
z 9 ,plate #g1 b ,look+                 
,outw>d4     ,plate #h4 ,view ( ! ,same 
,side ( ,t[n z 9 ,plate #g1 b ,look+    
,outw>d4   ,! t[] on ! left is ! same z 
sket*$ by ,rembr&t 7plate #ac74         
,aft] an et*+ by ,r4 ,zeeman1 ab\t      

#afej4      ,a m complete view ( ?is    
site ! read] w f9d 9 an et*+ by  ,zeeman
 7plate #aj71 :]e ! t[] is se5 ) its    
/eeple :i*  ,rembr&t omitt$ because he  
consid]$ ! comp>atively mod]n top 9     
di%>mony ) ! old] body ( ! t[]1 or r = !
 simple  reason t 8 pap] did n all[ him 
suffici5t space4  ,ano!r  /eepleless t[]
 is drawn by him :5 he sket*es !        
/ronghold  ,swyght-,utre*t ) adjac5t    
build+s 7plates #ab & #bj74  ,f9ally1   
!re is ! draw+ ( ! t[] ( ! ,we/]k]k1 !  
only sket* aft]  a m sev]e ar*itecture1 
r a transition f ! e>li] /yle (  ,de    
,keys] to ! lat] "o ( ,van ,camp5 7plate
 #ac74           ,plate #i4 ,! ,t[]     
,call$ 8,montelraan/or50 ,9 ,am/]dam    
,plate #i4 ,! ,t[] ,call$               
8,montelraan/or50 ,9 ,am/]dam ,aft] !   
draw+ by ,rembr&t1 =m]ly 9 ! ,heselt9e  
,collection1 n[ 9 !                     
,rembr&t ,h\se1 ,am/]dam        ,plate  
#aj4  ,! ,same ,t[] z 9 ! ,prec$+       
,illu/ration1 ) its                     
,/eeple & ,surr\nd+s4       ,plate #aj4 

,! ,same ,t[] z 9 ! ,prec$+             
,illu/ration1 ) its     ,/eeple &       
,surr\nd+s4 ,aft] an et*+ by ,r4        
,zeeman1 ab\t #afej4                    
,plate #aa4 ,! ,canal call$ 8,s+el0 9   
,am/]dam4      ,plate #aa4 ,! ,canal    
call$ 8,s+el0 9 ,am/]dam4 ,on ! left-h& 
side     ,rembr&t's son1 ,titus1 liv$   
dur+ 8 %ort m>ri$ life4  ,9 !   di/ance1
 ! 8,janroopoort/or504  ,aft] an et*+ by
 ,r4 ,zeeman1 ab\t                      
#afej4      ,9 try+ to recon/ruct a     
picture ( ,am/]dam 9 ,rembr&t's "t1 we  
mu/ realise ! ar*itectural =ms z well z 
! col\rs4 ,x is  natural t ! t[n's      
col\ri/ic aspect %\ld h>monize ) !      
col\r s*emes :i* we admire 9 ,holl&1 9  
its l&scapes1 on its  riv]s & seacoa/1 9
 ! pictorial ma/]pieces ( its arti/s & 9
  its int]iors1 :i* means t 9 ! city    
also we are fasc9at$ by !  ri*ness (    
t9ts1 always subdu$ & v>iegat$ by a     
c]ta9 haz9ess4  ,x is a ri*ness ( a v   
subtle nature3 no opposition ( /rong    
t9ts1  b an endless1 mo/ly light-scal$  

v>iety ( transitions1 n[ & !n  reliev$  
by a m p[]ful note l ! r$ ( a ro( or !  
pa9t ( a  boat2 ^! high] notes are      
g5]ally ( a fre%ness z if !y _h be5     
wa%$ by a rec5t ra94  ,aga9/ a sky1 (   
:i* ! blue or ! cl\ds  be> a bloom ( a  
silv]y hue1 ! h\ses %[ ! tone ( _!      
bricks  go+ f r$-br[n to a pale purple 9
 s _m deviations t !  uni=m indication (
 r$ w\ld be unju/4  ,! trembl+ ( !      
lights  & %ades ( wat] all ?r\gh ! t[n &
 ! gre5 ( s _m trees  plant$ along !    
quays1 7 ( c\rse two conditions :i*     
/rongly  help$ 9 produc+ a p>ticul>     
col\ri/ic *>m & :i* meant an  advantage 
ov] s _m =eign t[ns4  ,bo? ^! elem5ts 7 
& are  /ill n to be f\nd to su* an ext5t
 9 any o!r city1 ,v5ice  naturally      
except$ on acc\nt ( h] wat]ways4        
,conc5trat+ our  att5tion r on col\r ?an
 %ape1 we might reta9 = "o mom5t !      
comp>ison ) ,v5ice1 z x may help u to   
und]/& /ill bett] !  value ( :at we 7 j 
admir+ 9 ,am/]dam4  ,by reason ( _!     
situation1 _! prosp]ity1 _! univ]sality1

 _! natural educational  advantages1 bo?
 t[ns 71 s to say1 b\nd to produce a    
great s*ool (  pa9t]s1 & we ne$ n "h    
allude to ! glory ) :i* bo? t[ns  cov]$ 
!mselves on ?is field 9 ! eyes ( ! art  
_w4  ,/ress  %\ld1 h[ev]1 be laid "h on 
! fact t ! two t[ns 9 "q  br\ght =? !   
two greate/ s*ools ( col\ri/s1 a fact   
:i* %[s  h[ 9 ^! c5tres circum/ances    
fav\r ! developm5t ( col\ri/ic  tal5ts4 
,m9dful ( ! fact t ! great pa9t]s are   
our tea*]s 9  ! appreciation ( nature's 
beauties & *>ms1 we %\ld1 = our own     
in/ruction1 contra/ ! two s*ools & try  
to disc]n ! diff]5ce 9  _! common m]its4
  ,we %all !n notice t 8ri*ness 9 col\r0
 does  n mean ! same 9 bo? cities4  ,z  
oppos$ to ! abundance ( gl[+  col\rs on 
! exub]ant ,v5etian palette1 we %\ld    
place ! subtile  gradations1 !          
well-balanc$ & re/ra9$ spl5d\r & !      
endless  v>iations ( ! seem+ly re/rict$ 
col\r scale ( ! ,dut* arti/4  ,we %all s
 le>n to love bo? bett] ?an we did be=e 
&1 ne$less to  say1 our eyes w !n be m  

op5 to ! value ( ,am/]dam's sc5]y  :i* s
 (t5 inspir$ or /imulat$ ! pa9t]s4      
,plate #ab4 ,! ,t[] call$               
8,swyght-,utre*t01 & ! 8,doel50 9       
,am/]dam    ,plate #ab4 ,! ,t[] call$   
8,swyght-,utre*t01 & ! 8,doel50 9       
,am/]dam  7see plate #bj74 ,aft] ! draw+
 by ,rembr&t 9 ! collection ( ,dr4      
,c4 ,h(/$$ de ,groot1 ,! ,hague4        
,aft] ?is little excursion let u        
reconsid] ! t[n's appe>ance4  ,9  do+ s1
 we mu/ rememb] t x 0 already highly    
fl\ri%+ :5  ,rembr&t settl$ )9 its      
ramp>ts2 consequ5tly x is cle> t by  f> 
! great] "p ( ! liv+ h\ses belong$ to ! 
m picturesque  prec$+ p]iod4  ,! h\ses  
g5]ally _h ?ree or f\r /ories1 &  _!    
fronts 7 )\t exception cr[n$ by po9t$   
gables1 mo/ (  !m /epp$4  ,9 ! old]     
qu>t]s1 :]e ! h\ses 7 m cr[d$  toge!r1  
!y v (t5 _h m /ories & 7 /rangely tall1 
b  ev]y:]e t irregul> saw-l pr(ile1 =m$ 
by ! /eep-pit*$  gable-tops1 appe>$     
silh\ett$ aga9/ ! sky 7horizontal       
ro(-l9es1  m 9 accordance ) ! new /yle (

 ,van ,camp51 7 sl[ly  introduc$ b      
rema9$ sc>ce74  ,all ^! h\se-fronts 71 z
 we said  be=e1 gay 9 col\r & enliv5$ by
 s&/one ornam5ts1 w9d[s )  _! small     
gli/5+ panes set 9 lead1 brightly pa9t$ 
%utt]s1 "h  & !re woodwork decorat+ !   
h\se-fronts1 & z a rule an  arti/ically 
c>v$ /one-panel ) figures & inscription 
or date  l5d+ a sep>ate "* to ea* h\se4 
,! h\se 9 :i* ,rembr&t  pass$ mo/ ( !   
ye>s & 9 :i* he knew =tune & fame z well
 z  sorr[ & rev]se1 (f]s a good type ( !
 !n prevail+ dome/ic  ar*itecture 7plate
 #af74  ,! h\se /ill exi/s & has become1
 s9ce  its re/oration1 a few ye>s ago1 a
 place ( pilgrimage = art-lov+  t\ri/s4 
,we mu/1 h[ev]1 "h call att5tion to a   
fact :i* is  g5]ally unkn[n to ! public1
 namely1 t1 ?\gh re/or$1 ! h\se  does n 
appe> z x probably look$ :5 ,rembr&t    
liv$ 9 x4  ,?is  does n s mu* apply to !
 int]ior1 because ev]ybody w und]/&  !  
impossibility ( recon/ruct+ ! arti/'s   
direct surr\nd+s1 =  lack ( ! furniture 
& works ( art ) :i* ,rembr&t _h cr[d$   

x4  ,m notewor?y is ! fact t ! facade   
has q a diff]5t  "*4  ,! out] appe>ance 
( a h\se %\ld z mu* z possible  give a  
true illu/ration ( ! "t at :i* x 0      
built1 especially z  ?is "o _h reta9$   
its orig9al =m1 app>5tly1 :5 its greate/
  occupant inhabit$ x4  ,9 its re/or$   
condition x /ill pres]ves  important    
additions :i* date f a lat] p]iod4  ,!  
two sket*es on  plate #af %[ u h[ !     
orig9al picturesque /epp$ gable 0 *ang$ 
into a cornice ) a tympanon1 giv+ a     
diff]5t appe>ance to !  h\se4  ,any eye 
famili> ) ,dut* ar*itecture w detect 9 !
 front1  9 its pres5t /ate1 a diff]5ce 9
 p]iod betwe5 its l[] & upp]  "p4  ,!   
latt] is ab\t fifty ye>s lat]1 & ! :ole 
%[s a  mixture ( ! two /yles :i* we h   
describ$3 ! e>li]1 v>i$  /yle ( a ,de   
,keys] & ! lat]1 m classical /yle ( ,van
 ,camp5's  s*ool 78 pupil ,v+boons874   
,probability1 bas$ on maps & docum5ts  l
 ,rembr&t's inv5tory ( #afef1 & a       
rec5tly discov]$ acc\nt  reg>d+         
alt]ations done by ! subsequ5t own]s1 &1

 moreov]1 !  conv9c+ diff]5ce 9 /yle1   
lead u to ! conviction t !  alt]ation 9 
! front dates v %ortly aft] ,rembr&t's  
dep>ture  f ! h\se1 i4e4 ab\t #affj1 :5 
x 0 divid$ into two n>r[]  resid5ces4   
,! h\se-front1 z x looks n[1 0 probably 
famili> to  ,rembr&t 9 ! la/ t5 ye>s ( 8
 life1 ev5 ?\gh we take into            
consid]ation 8 probable dis9cl9ation to 
look aga9 & aga9 at !  place1 :]e he _h 
pass$ tw5ty ye>s ( 8 life1 & :]e        
mis=tune  _h cruelly put an end to bett]
 days2 x is1 h[ev]1 an op5 "q  :e!r su* 
a consid]ation (f]s suffici5t gr\nd = a 
re/oration (  ! k9d rec5tly c>ri$ out4  
,nev]!less we h to be ?ankful to !      
tru/ees t ! h\se 0 sav$1 because x is   
,rembr&t's mo/ intimate  memorial1 aside
 f 8 own "w1 left to po/]ity4           
,plate #ac4 ,! ,t[] ,call$ 8,we/]tor50  
,9 ,am/]dam4     ,plate #ac4 ,! ,t[]    
,call$ 8,we/]tor50 ,9 ,am/]dam4 ,aft] ! 
draw+                 by ,rembr&t1 9 !  
,fodor ,museum1 ,am/]dam                
,plate #ad4 ,! ,canal call$             

8,pr9s5gra*t0 9 ,am/]dam4     ,plate    
#ad4 ,! ,canal call$ 8,pr9s5gra*t0 9    
,am/]dam4 ,! t[] se5 on    ! left is !  
same z se5 9 ! prec$+ illu/ration4      
,aft] an                      et*+ by   
,r4 ,zeeman1 ab\t #afej4          ,plate
 #ae4 ,! ,/4 ,an?ony-,m>ket 9 ,am/]dam1 
) ! ,old ,gate                          
,trans=m$ into a ,weigh+-,h\se4         
,plate #ae4 ,! ,/4 ,an?ony-,m>ket 9     
,am/]dam1 ) ! ,old ,gate   ,trans=m$    
into a ,weigh+-,h\se4  ,aft] an et*+ by 
,r4 ,zeeman1 ab\t                       
#afej4      ,plate #af4 ,rembr&t's ,h\se
 ,9 ,! 8,/4 ,an?onie-bree/raat0 ,9      
,am/]dam                                
,plate #af4 ,rembr&t's ,h\se ,9 ,! 8,/4 
,an?onie-bree/raat0 ,9 ,am/]dam    ,on !
 left3 ,z x mu/ h look$ :5 ,rembr&t     
occupi$ x4 ,on !                        
"r3 ,pres5t /ate4      ,?is h\se welcom$
 ,rembr&t 9 #afci1 :5 he acquir$ x =    
#ac1jjj  flor9s 7a good price 9 ^? days1
 %[+ t x 0 a desirable  resid5ce7 & saw 
itself adorn$ ) a unique collection (   

works ( art  :i* its own]1 passionate   
collector t he 01 did n cease to        
enl>ge4  ,t same h\se saw its illu/ri\s 
occupant become m &  m retir+1          
misund]/ood by ! majority ( ! public &  
f9ally  /ruck by rev]ses1 till a total  
bankruptcy necessitat$ ! sale ( !  h\se 
9 #afeh4  ,x has (t5 be5 ?\ght1 t 8     
undy+ mania =  collect+ 0 ! pr9cipal    
cause ( 8 mis=tune1 b a docum5t1        
rec5tly discov]$1 %[s t ,rembr&t 01 l s 
_m ( 8  fell[-citiz5s1 ! victim ( !     
economic rev]ses caus$ by ! fir/        
,anglo-,dut* w>4  ,9 #afec ne>ly ! :ole 
trade 0 at a /&/ill1 #aejj  h\ses 7o!rs 
speak ( d\ble ! numb]7 /ood empty1 & on 
! #bg? (  ,june ev5 ! magi/rate decid$  
to leave (f "o ( ! two pr9cipal  /ories 
f its new magnific5t t[n-hall1 !n 9     
c\rse (  con/ruction1 a resolution :i*  
=tunately 0 revok$ two ye>s lat]4  ,z a 
matt] ( fact trade weak5$ heavily until 
#affj1 suff]+ rev]ses1  n only f        
,engl&'s attitude1 b also f ,france's & 
,sw$5's  fi5di% acts4  ,al?\gh ! t[n    

en]getically oppos$ its enemies1 (t5    
aga9/ ! w ( ! ,ne!rl&s' ,/ates1 x c\ld n
 at once r$ress  its int]nal depression1
 & we %\ld n wond] at see+ ! arti/      
,rembr&t among ! victims4  ,he av[s 9 ! 
docum5t t he lo/  consid]ably 9 trade1  
especially 9 m>itime v5tures4  ,x seems 
t !  trad+ hobby1 innate 9 mo/ ,dut*m5  
at t "t1 0 also /rong 9  him2 9 an act (
 #afcd we see him already designat$ z   
8m]*ant0 & n  z arti/6    ,! h\se seems 
r to h gone up 9 value1 = x realis$ 9 ^!
  bad times ne>ly z mu* z ,rembr&t _h   
orig9ally paid = x4  ,?is is  n to be   
wond]$ at1 z x /ood 9 a v pr(itable     
qu>t]4  ,!  /reet foll[$ ! c\rse ( a    
dike1 call$ ! ,/4 ,an?oniesdk1 f  :i* x 
d]iv$ its "n2 ?is dike 0 !n & _h always 
be5 an  important way ( access to       
,am/]dam1 z x 0 ! only direct r\te to   
,diem51 ,weesp1 & ,muid54 ,9 ! beg9n+ ( 
! sev5te5? c5tury x  0 inhabit$ by _m   
ari/ocratic families1 ) :om gradually   
int]m+l$ ,portuguese ,jewi% refugees1 z 
?is 0 a new qu>t] :]e  !y c\ld m easily 

f9d liv+ accommodation4  ,z "t w5t on1  
,jewi%  occupants began to dom9ate1 &   
t[>ds ! close ( ! c5tury !  /reet 0 = t 
reason rebaptis$ f ,/4 ,an?oniebree/raat
 into  ,jod5 7 ,jews'7 bree/raat4  ,we  
f9d ?is *ange illu/rat$ 9 ! fact  t1 :5 
,rembr&t b\ght ?is h\se1 "o ( 8         
neighb\rs 0 a ,jew1  call$ ,salvador    
,rodrigue1 ! o!r a ,*ri/ian fell[-pa9t] 
,nicolaes  ,eliasz1 b :5 he left ! h\se1
 ,eliasz _h di$ 9 #afed & be5  succe$$  
by ,daniel ,p9to1 aga9 a not$ ,jewi% "n4
  ,^! ,portuguese  ,jewi% families 7 a  
great advantage to ! t[n & %\ld 9 no way
 be  plac$ on a p> ) ! poor ,jews1 mo/ly
 ( ,g]man & ,poli% desc5t1  n[ occupy+  
?is qu>t]4  ,! ,portuguese ,jews 7      
highly cultur$1  well-to-d1 ord]ly1 &   
clean p2 "o ( _! mo/ brilliant m9ds  0  
,m5asseh-b5-,israel1 ,rabbi at !        
,synagogue situat$ on a canal j  beh9d  
,rembr&t's h\se1 a great l+ui/1 ! fir/  
,hebraic pr9t] 9  ! ,ne!rl&s1 ! tea*] ( 
! celebrat$ philosoph] ,sp9oza1 a       
sympa!tic & admirable figure1 :om we see

 until ! close ( 8 life  9 fri5dly      
relations ) ,rembr&t4         ,plate    
#ag4  ,! ,bridge & ,sluice call$ 8,/4   
,an?onie-sluis0 9                       
,am/]dam1 se5 f ! ,nor?4     ,plate #ag4
  ,! ,bridge & ,sluice call$ 8,/4       
,an?onie-sluis0 9 ,am/]dam1  se5 f !    
,nor?4 ,rembr&t's home 7plate #af7 /ood 
9 ! imm$iate    vic9ity ( ?is spot4     
,aft] ! draw+ by ,a4 ,wat]loo1 9 !      
,fodor                                  
,museum1 ,am/]dam4      ,if f ?is c5tre 
we look a little fur!r ar\nd1 we f9d 9 !
 same  qu>t] o!r sites memorable 9 !    
arti/'s life3 fir/ ( all 9 !  same      
/reet1 also ne> ! bridge :]e ,rembr&t's 
own h\se /ood1 we  recognise ! h\se (   
,mr4 ,h5drick ,uyl5burgh1 a not$ deal] 9
 pictures  & works ( art & a publi%]1 ) 
:om ,rembr&t /ood 9 close  relation :ile
 yet resid+ 9 ,leyd54  ,?is relation%ip 
0 fur!r  /r5g!n$ :5 ! arti/1 com+ = good
 to ,am/]dam1 resid$ )  ,uyl5burgh &    
rema9$ 9 8 h\se = "s ye>s1 dur+ :i* "t  
he  _h ! good =tune to make !           

acqua9tance ( ,uyl5burgh's *>m+  c\s9   
,saskia1 ,rembr&t's future wife4  ,he   
m>ri$ h] 9 #afcd1 rema9+  at            
,uyl5burgh's h\se until #afce4  ,dur+ ^!
 ye>s ,rembr&t seems to  h kept a l>ge  
/udio1 especially = 8 pupils1 9 a       
w>eh\se on !  ,bloemgra*t1 a qu>t] :]e  
we %all f9d him aga9 mu* lat]4  ,pass+  
along ! same /reet1 t[>ds ! c5tre ( !   
t[n1 we pass on !  "r1 opposite !       
,zuid]k]k1 ! h\se :]e ,la/man liv$ :5 he
  in/ruct$ ! "y ,rembr&t1 & at ! end ( !
 /reet we notice a  heavy ,late-,go?ic  
build+1 ! ,/4 ,an?onieswaag1 =m]ly "o ( 
!  gates1 :5 ! t[n 0 less ext5sive1 b n[
 *ang$ into a ,public  ,weigh+ ,h\se4   
,rembr&t's contempor>y1 ! et*] ,zeeman1 
has left u  a *>m+ little pr9t ( ?is    
edifice1 reproduc$ on plate #ae4  ,!    
reason x %\ld n[ int]e/ u is because on 
its fir/ floor x lodg$  ! ,surgeons'    
,guild1 = :i* ,rembr&t pa9t$1 9 #afcb1 8
 celebrat$  ,anatomical ,lesson ( ,dr4  
,nicolaes ,tulp1 n[ 9 ! museum at ,!    
,hague4  ,! commission = ?is ma/]piece (

 ,rembr&t's y\ng] ye>s 0  p]haps1       
because ( its dim5sions1 "o ( ! reasons 
= 8 removal  f ,leyd5 to ,am/]dam1 z its
 date corresponds ) 8 e/abli%m5t  9     
,am/]dam4  ,dur+ two c5turies ! picture 
ornam5t$ ! int]ior (  ?is build+1 toge!r
 ) ano!r1 /ill m wond]ful1 pa9t+ by     
him1 ,! ,anatomical ,lesson ( ,dr4      
,deyman1 ( :i* only a c5tral  fragm5t 0 
sav$ f a fire1 n[ 9 ! ,am/]dam          
,ryksmuseum4  ,turn+  our back to ! big 
build+ & foll[+ ! canal p>tly reproduc$ 
9  ! =egr\nd ( ,zeeman's et*+1 we pass  
on ! left ! h\se ( ,mr4  ,six1 :om      
,rembr&t mu/ h visit$ (t51 & come 9 a   
few m9utes  into ! ,doel5/raat1 at !    
corn] ( :i* /ood a massive t[]1  rema9d]
 ( anci5t =tifications1 sket*$ by       
,rembr&t z we saw on  plate #ab4  ,next 
to ?is build+ 0 ! ,doel5 7"p ( its back 
c be  se5 on ! ma/]'s above-m5tion$     
draw+71 ! meet+-place ( !  civic gu>ds1 
n[ *ang$ into a hotel ( ! same "n1 b 9  
,rembr&t's day ! place :]e ! pa9t]'s mo/
 fam\s picture1 ,!  ,night ,wat*1 0     

kept1 s9ce a capta9 ( ! gu>ds1 ,bann+   
,cocq1 _h  ! d>+ idea ( entru/+ ,rembr&t
 ) ! commission to portray him  & 8     
company4  ,two h\ses fur!r along ! /reet
 7a site n[ occupi$  by a bank1 next to 
,messrs4 ,fr$]ik ,mull]  ,co47 we mu/   
pay att5tion to  ! place :]e ,rembr&t   
liv$ 9 #afcf4 ,aft] 8 removal f 8 c\s9  
,uyl5burgh's h\se1 ,rembr&t himself     
/ates ?is address z 8next to !  p5sion>y
 ,boreel0 9 a lett] to ! ,pr9ce (       
,orange's secret>y1  ,huyg5s1 a lett] n[
 pres]v$ 9 ! collection ( ,mr4 ,paul    
,w>burg 9  ,new ,york4  ,t h\se mu/ h   
be5 br& new 9 #afcf1 z build+ on  t side
 ( ! ,doel5/raat 0 only />t$ 9 #afce    
7plates #ah1 #ai1  & #bj74  ,x seems1   
h[ev]1 n to h satisfi$ ! pa9t]1 because 
?ree ye>s lat]1 be=e 8 removal to 8 own 
h\se 9 ! ,/4  ,an?oniebree/raat1 he     
gives 8 address1 9 ano!r lett] to       
,huyg5s1 z  be+ on ! ,am/el 9 a h\se    
call$ ,de suik]bakk] 7! sug>  ref9]y7 ! 
exact situation ( :i* has n yet be5     
trac$4           ,plate #ah4 ,!         

8doel5/raat0 ,9 ,am/]dam 7old situation7
       ,plate #ah4 ,! 8doel5/raat0 ,9   
,am/]dam 7old situation7 ,! rec$+       
build+1 beh9d ! l[ wall ) gate1 on ! "r1
 is ! 8,doel50 =    :i* ,rembr&t pa9t$  
8,! ,night ,wat*40 ,! h\se :]e ! ma/]   
liv$ 9 #afcf 0 next to ! h\se se5 on !  
extreme "r4 ,! t[]  se5 above ! ro( is !
 "o sket*$ by ,rembr&t 7plate #ab74     
,comp>e     also plate #bj ,aft] ! draw+
 by ,r4 ,v9keles 9 ! ,ar*ives 9         
,am/]dam      ,return+ f ?is ,doel5/raat
 to ,rembr&t's re/or$ h\se :]e we  />t$ 
our little excursion1 & tak+ a /reet    
call$ ! ,/aal/raat  on our "r1 we %\ld  
obs]ve a build+ on our left call$ !     
,/aalh(1 ! bir?place ( t o!r ma/]piece1 
rivall+ ,! ,night  ,wat* 9 fame1 namely 
,! ,/aalmee/]s 7,! ,syndics74 ,:5 ?is   
great  pa9t+ 0 a*iev$ 9 #affa1 ,rembr&t1
 =c$ by ! sale ( 8 h\se1  _h already    
left ?is qu>t] ( ! t[n1 b x is pleas+ to
 notice  t ! ,/aalmee/]s _h n =gott5 !  
great pa9t]1 :o _h long  liv$ 9 _!      
neighb\rhood4     ,plate #ai4 ,! ,back (

 ! ,h\ses 9 ! 8,doel5/raat0 9 ,am/]dam4 
,plate #ai4 ,! ,back ( ! ,h\ses 9 !     
8,doel5/raat0 9 ,am/]dam4 ,!   n>r[ h\se
 9 ! middle1 two w9d[s wide1 is1 al?\gh 
rebuilt1 !   "o :]e ,rembr&t liv$ 9     
#afcf4  ,to ! left1 "p ( ,messrs4 ,fr$]k
                 ,mull]  ,co4's aution &
 exhibition rooms4       ,plate #bj4 ,! 
,t[] 8,swyght-,utre*t0 & ! ,backs ( !   
,h\ses ( !                              
8,doel5/raat0 9 ,am/]dam4     ,plate    
#bj4 ,! ,t[] 8,swyght-,utre*t0 & !      
,backs ( ! ,h\ses ( !   8,doel5/raat0 9 
,am/]dam4 ,! ?ird h\se f ! t[] mu/ be ! 
"o occupi$ by ,rembr&t 9 #afcf4  ,aft]  
an engrav+ by van ,meurs (              
ab\t #affj4                     ,plate  
#ba4 ,! ,old ,ex*ange 9 ,am/]dam4       
,plate #ba4 ,! ,old ,ex*ange 9 ,am/]dam4
 ,aft] an engrav+ by ,cl4 ,jz4          
,viss*]4      ,to complete our survey ( 
,rembr&t's dwell+s 9 ,am/]dam1 we mu/   
f9ally foll[ him on 8 retirem5t1 :51 ow+
 to 8 bankruptcy1 8  wond]ful collection
 _h be5 disp]s$ to ! w9ds "u !          

auctione]'s hamm]1 & :5 he _h to leave 8
 l>ge h\se1 ! c\rt  all[+ him to take   
only two /oves & "s p>titions 9 ! attic4
  ,we  h !re=e to cross ! entire t[n 9  
its wid? & repair to its  we/]n         
ext5sion1 :]e he liv$ ab\t t5 ye>s until
 8 dea?1 mo/ (  ?is "t 9 ! company ( 8  
son ,titus1 & ) 8 second wife           
,h5drickje ,/(fels1 until h] dea? 9     
#affd4  ,on exam9+ ! map ( !  t[n &     
comp>+ ! design ( ! new we/]n qu>t]s    
ar\nd !  ,roz5gra*t ) ! rema9d] ( ! t[n1
 we obs]ve an incongruity 9  city       
plann+1 :i* calls = an explanation4  ,! 
olde/ "p 9 !  c5tre faces ! h>b\r &     
logically foll[s upw>ds ! c\rse ( !     
,am/el ,riv]2 ! lay-out ( ! canals 9 t  
"p is 9 accordance  !re)1 because !y    
really are ! =m] moats surr\nd+ !       
protect+ walls incorporat$ 9 ! t[n dur+ 
its v>i\s ext5sions  f ! f\rte5? to !   
sixte5? c5tury4  ,! foll[+ plan ( !     
?ree canals1 ,he]5gra*t1 ,keiz]sgra*t1 &
 ,pr9s5gra*t1 !  beg9n+ ( :i* on ! we/  
side takes place 9 ,rembr&t's "t1       

co9cides ) ! fan-%ap$ plan ( ! t[n1 b ! 
out] qu>t]s1  includ+ ! ,roz5gra*t1 seem
 9 di%>mony4  ,! reason mu/ be s\ght  9 
! circum/ance t ! exploitation ( ^!     
di/ricts _h to be  kept on an economical
 scale1 s9ce ! ?ree pr9cipal canals     
m5tion$  above _h be5 und]tak5 on s     
royal a scale4  ,!re=e ! exi/+  features
 7 pres]v$3 ! _m dit*es1 sep>at+ !      
mead[s &  g>d5s =m]ly occupy+ ?is site1 
7 simply wid5$ into canals2 &  !        
pa?ways1 runn+ betwe51 7 trans=m$ into  
/reets4  ,!  peculi> *>act]i/ics ( ?is  
"p ( ! t[n1 due to ^! conditions  (     
gr[?1 made x into a typical qu>t]1 kn[n 
z ! ,jordaan2 its  population has always
 be5 "o ( mode/ means1 mix+ little ) !  
t[n4  ,s we see t x 0 v appropriate = ! 
pa9t]'s  retirem5t1 aft] 8 social       
d[nfall 9 ! late fifties4        ,plate 
#bb4 ,! ,inn ,call$ 8de ,keiz]s ,kroon0 
,9 ,! ,kalv]/raat1                      
,am/]dam         ,plate #bb4 ,! ,inn    
,call$ 8de ,keiz]s ,kroon0 ,9 ,!        
,kalv]/raat1   ,am/]dam4 ,"h ,rembr&t's 

collections 7 sold by auction1 aft] 8   
bankruptcy1 9 #afeg & #ajeh4 ,aft] an   
anonym\s draw+ 9 ! ,ar*ives             
9 ,am/]dam4      ,n only ! direction (  
its canals & /reets rem9d "o ( ! =m]    
nature ( ?is qu>t]1 ! places ( amusem5t 
likewise are rem9isc5t  ( ! times :5    
well-to-d citiz5s _h _! g>d5s &         
pleasuregr\nds amid/ ! mead[s1 be=e !   
city encroa*$ ^u !m4  ,!re 71 = in/ance1
 two l>ge g>d5s ) mazes & f\nta9s1      
=m]ly ! prop]ty ( ,am/]dam burgh]s1     
aft]w>ds = _m ye>s an  attraction = !   
public4  ,"o ( !m1 at ! end ( !         
,roz5gra*t1  0 own$ & manag$ by         
,l+elba*1 ! fa!r ( ,johan ! pa9t]4  ,an 
inscription 9 ! burial-book ( !         
,we/]k]k1 say+ t ,rembr&t's  corpse came
 on ! #h? ( ,octob]1 #affi1 8f !        
,roz5gra*t opposite  ! ,labyr9?10       
pa9fully rem9ds u h[ = ! la/ sad ye>s ( 
8  life ! great pa9t] _h liv$ opposite  
?is popul> place ( public  amusem5t4    
,! ,h\se ,( ,mr4 ,f4 ,bann+ ,cocq       
,plate #bc4 ,! ,h\se ,( ,mr4 ,f4 ,bann+ 

,cocq 7! ,capta9 ,& ,prom95t     ,p]son 
,9 ,rembr&t's 8,night-wat*07 ,9 ,am/]dam
 ,aft] an anonym\s       draw+ 9 !      
family ar*ives ( ,jhr4 ,d4 de ,graeff at
 ,! ,hague                              
,,ii      ,hav+ dealt ) ! t[n's         
appe>ance1 pr9cipally f an ar*itectural 
po9t ( view1 9 ! prec$+ pages1 because  
ar*itecture is s  ess5tial 9 express+ a 
p's "* & aspirations1 we mu/ n[  give   
our att5tion to ano!r condition         
in/rum5tal 9 complet+ a  t[n's aspect1  
namely1 ! daily life :i* is animat+ x4  
,we1  fa/-liv+ tw5tie?-c5tury p1 are apt
 to suppose t life "s  c5turies ago 0   
mov+ /eadily b sl[ly1 t p 7 sp>$ !      
en]vat+ excitem5ts ( our own days & t !y
 consequ5tly _h a  mu* m quiet & regul> 
exi/5ce4  ,contempor>y docum5ts prove t 
?is op9ion is wrong1 at lea/ 9 s f> z   
,am/]dam is conc]n$4  ,already 9 #afah !
 ,v5etian ,antonio ,donato wrote (      
,am/]dam t !  /reets & public places 7 s
 ?rong$ 8t ! sc5e look$ l a  fair to end
 9 "o day02 & did n ,desc>tes write 9   

#afca1 :5 he  resid$ 9 ,am/]dam1 t      
nobody notic$ him because he 0 ! only   
non-tradesman 9 ,am/]dam amid/ a trad+  
population1 att5tive to its  pr(its4    
,?is reveals ! bu/l+ ( ! great comm]cial
 c5tre4  ,!  facts h no?+ a/oni%+ 9 !m  
if we realise t ,holl&'s  comm]cial %ips
 numb]$ half ( ! _w's trad+-fleet & t   
,am/]dam h>b\r$ mo/ ( !m47#c7 ,no wond] 
t1 9 su* a t[n1 life  0 int5se & t its  
/rong pulsation 0 felt ev]y:]e3 9 cr[d$ 
/reets & quays1 9 num]\s (fices &       
w>eh\ses1 on ! l>ge  ex*ange1 ar\nd !   
,public ,weigh+ ,h\ses1 9 ! %ops &      
m>ket-places1 etc4  ,! ease &           
self-cont5tm5t ) :i* ! ,dut*  7 s (t5   
reproa*$ at ! "t ( ! ,fr5* ,revolution1 
7 !n  unkn[n2 on ! contr>y all 0        
ent]prise1 action1 & movem5t4  ,a       
salut>y fre%ness ( _s 0 fav\r$ by !     
v>iety ( p  cr[d+ 9 ?is c5tre3 !        
hospitality %[n to p ( v>i\s  religions1
 f ! busy ,jews1 to ! refugees ( ,antw]p
 & ,fl&]s1  creat$ a rivalry ( int]e/s1 
b5efit+ trade 9 g5]al4    ,to ?is       

animation caus$ by comm]ce we mu/ add ! 
life br\ght into !  t[n's ?or\ghf>es by 
! p's dome/ic & social exi/5ce1 :i*  0 9
 ^? days mu* m out-(-doors ?an x is n[1 
j z !re 0  also a mu* less m>k$         
sep>ation betwe5 ! v>i\s classes3       
h\sewives  go+ to ! m>kets1 *ildr5 play+
 9 ! /reets1 families repos+  9 or be=e 
_! op5 /reet-doors1 p ( ! l[] classes   
seek+  9 ! /reet :at _! n>r[ & close    
dwell+s c\ld n give !m1  travell]s be+  
se5 (f at ! h>b\rside or on !           
canal-quays1  co/]mong]s prais+ _! w>es4
  ,!re 01 = example1 ! daily  fi%m>ket  
beh9d ! ,dam1 ,am/]dam's c5tral squ>e1 (
 :i* ! poet  ,br$]ode has left u su*    
vivid pictures1 br++ to our e>s all !   
b>ga9+1 %\t+1 & qu>rell+ ( =m] days2 !re
 7 num]\s  o!r m>kets necessitat$1 n    
only by ! t[n's trade1 b by its  e-day  
ne$s3 ! weekly m>ket = butt] & *eese1   
:i* until #affi  enliv5$ ! ,dam1 :]e n[ 
electric c>s circulate & a mu*          
less-v>i$ traffic passes by2 ! apple- & 
fruit-m>ket on ! ,s+el1  opposite ! h\se

 :]e ,rembr&t's only son ,titus pass$ ! 
few mon?s  ( 8 m>ri$ life2 ! fl[]-m>ket1
 :]e ! middleclass p f\nd  ! *eap floral
 decorations = _! (t5 gloomy int]iors3 !
  meat-m>ket 9 ! ,nes3 ! ,monday's      
m>ket1 on ! ,s+el1 ( small  furniture & 
kit*5-ut5sils3 ! vegetable- & peat-m>ket
 on !  ,pr9s5gra*t1 etc4  ,t all good   
h\sewives1 ev5 ^? ( middle &  upp]      
classes1 made x a rule to frequ5t ^!    
m>kets is reveal$ to u  n only by       
contempor>y pictures b also by a passage
 9 "o (  ,huyg5s's lett]s to ! ,pr9ce ( 
,orange1 9 :i* ?is ref9$ diplomat  f ,! 
,hague expresses 8 a/oni%m5t at see+ !  
wife ( ,admiral de  ,ruyt] g daily to   
m>ket  le pani] au bras4                
,plate #bd4 ,! ,/> ( ! ,k+s4            
,plate #bd4 ,! ,/> ( ! ,k+s4 ,*ildr5    
be=e a /reet door on  ,epiphany-ev5+4   
,aft] ! draw+ by ,rembr&t1 9 ! ,briti%  
,museum1                                
,london4  ,salt+ ,beque/4      ,all ^!  
?\s&s ( p1 bus9ess-m51 workm51          
h\sewives1 small  trad]s1 w5t ab\t 9    

comp>atively simple dresses1 9 :i* !    
black  & discreet col\rs pr$om9at$4     
,aga9/ ?is sob] backgr\nd1 !            
multi-col\r$ g>m5ts ( ! num]\s /rang]s f
 ov]-seas 7 set  (f %>ply3 ^? ( !       
,levant9es1 ,p]sians1 ,poles1 & o!rs1 :o
  congregat$ 9 ?is int]national m>t4    
,:at 0 said ( ! citiz5s'  dress does n  
imply t luxuri\s co/umes 7 unkn[n 9     
,am/]dam2  ! y\ng] p ( c\rse donn$      
light] & m elegant clo!s1 &  m>ri$      
ladies at home knew v well h[ to *>m !  
eyes ( _!  visitors4  ,gradually1 z     
,am/]dam's weal? increas$1 ! upp]       
classes  became m luxuri\s1 & t[>ds !   
end ( ,rembr&t's life we see a  complete
 *ange effect$3 we may say t :5 !       
ar*itects pref]ably  imitat$ ! ,italian 
,palladio or ! ,fr5* ,mans>t1 & :5 !    
feebl]  pa9t]s foll[$ ! deg5]at+ ta/e ( 
! public1-- !n ! lead+  classes took to 
,fr5* fa%ions1 & wigs came into use4    
,rembr&t's  pictures %[ u suffici5tly t 
he kept alo( f ?is deplorable b  fat$   
*ange1 & we mu/ imag9e him mov+ )9 !    

classes :i*  rema9$ loyal to ! solid    
habits ( ! fir/ p]iod ( 8 life 9        
,am/]dam4    ,m+l+ ) ?is traffic we f9d 
! *ildr5 amus+ !mselves1  v5t+ _! love (
 ridicule &1 above all ?+s1 fight+1 9 ^?
  p>ts f :i* !y 7 lat] on bani%$ on     
acc\nt ( a m regul>  education1 or      
because ( c]ta9 di/ricts turn+ into     
exclusive %op- or  (fice-qu>t]s4  ,_!   
playfulness fell aga9 & aga9 into wild  
excesses1 :i* =c$ ! magi/rate to pass   
prohibitive laws1 9 ord]  to protect    
citiz5s f injury & damage4  ,add to ?is 
! great numb]  ( begg>s1 peasant-p1 _m (
 !m1 impov]i%$ by ! w>s1  bohemians1    
highwaym51 remnants ( army-tra9s1 all   
flock+ to ! great  c5tre 9 ! hope ( f9d+
 assi/ance1 /roll+ musicians1           
quacksalv]s & m\ntebanks at m>ket "t    
7plate #bf71 p]iodic p>ades  (          
gaily-dress$ civic gu>ds4  ,add to ?is !
 fairs1 & we %all h  complet$ 9 our     
imag9ation a sc5e :i* is ( ! livelie/1 &
  c]ta9ly ( a f> great] *>m & v>iety ?an
 our pres5t m     monoton\s & regulat$  

exi/5ce4  ,rembr&t's ,plate #be4 ,*ildr5
       ,re=e ,a ,/reet ,door3 ,! ,"o ,9 
,! ,middle ,) ,a 8,rommelpot0           
,plate #be4 ,*ildr5 ,re=e ,a ,/reet     
,door3 ,! ,"o ,9 ,! ,middle ,) ,a       
8,rommelpot04 ,aft] ! draw+ by ,rembr&t1
 9 ! ,briti% ,museum1 ,london      et*+s
 & draw+s give u num]\s little          
illu/rations 9 ?is  respect1 z may be   
se5 f ! sup]b draw+ lately add$ to !    
,briti% ,museum by ! ,salt+ beque/1 %[+ 
*ildr5 go+ ab\t )  ! /> 7a /ructure (   
oil$ pap] on a /ick1 lit f beh9d ) a    
c&le7 on ,epiphany-ev5+1 & s++ be=e !   
h\ses1 z !y also  did1 "s mon?s lat]1 on
 ,%rove ,tuesday1 accompany+ _! songs ) 
! rommelpot1 a musical in/rum5t well    
kn[n f ,hals's pictures1 &  consi/+ ( an
 e>!nw>e pot1 cov]$ ) p>*m5t or bladd]1 
?r\gh :i* a /ick 0 mov$ up & d[n 7plates
 #bd & #be74  ,rembr&t's et*+s reproduc+
 tramps & /reet-types1 l 8  rat-kill]1  
are no d\bt s famili> to our read]s t we
 ne$ n  recall !m by means (            
reproductions4    ,! tid9ess & ord]ly   

habits ( ! ,dut* 7 effective 9 putt+    
limits to ! disord] & dirt :i* are s (t5
 ! nuisance (  seaports4  ,?is 0 /ill m 
obvi\s 9 ! int]iors ( !  dwell+-h\ses   
:]e ! ,dut* h\sewives ex]t$ ! supremacy 
( _!  clean+ & wa%+ prop5sity1  cette   
proprit holl&aise qui  comm5ce p> tonn] 
et qui f9it1 qu& on demeure dans le     
pays1 p>  dev5ir un beso91 une          
ncessite'''une v]tu contagieuse1  z     
,hav>d says4  ,a simil> s5se ( ord] 0 to
 be not$ 9 ! adm9i/ration ( public      
*>ities3 orphanages1 asylums1 hospitals1
 & simil> in/itutions 7  f\nd$ & g5]\sly
 end[$1 mo/ly by private initiative1 & 7
  organis$ 9 su* a c>eful & s5sible way 
t mo/ ( !m h   la/$1 "u ! same rules1   
until our days47#d7 ,asc5d+ ,plate #bf4 
,a                       ,quacksalv] on 
a ,m>ket-,place4          ,plate #bf4 ,a
 ,quacksalv] on a ,m>ket-,place4  ,aft] 
! draw+ by      ,rembr&t4  ,9 !         
collection ( ,fr$]i* ,augu/ ,,ii1 9     
,dresd54      to high] levels we aga9   
obs]ve1 9 ! t[n's democratic magi/rates1

  t ord]ly _s & caution :i* enabl$ ^!   
practical1 vigilant  au?orities to      
consolidate ! t[n's importance & to     
develop x to !  highe/ p[] 9 ! ,ne!rl&s1
 dread$ by =eign competitors &          
possess+1 s to say1 ! supremacy ( ! sea4
  ,!y 7 *>act]i/ic  repres5tatives ( !  
citiz5s' nature3 cool-head$ness & a v   
/rong  feel+ ( indep5d5ce1 root$ 9 _!   
own & _! fa!rs'  emancipation f ,spani% 
dom9ation1 & 9 _! en]getic              
tradesman%ip4  ,we "h t\* a m ab/ract   
subject1 n less ess5tial  9 con/itut+ ! 
g5]al disposition ( ! t[n1 namely1 !    
nature  & _s ( its individuals1 =m+1 s  
to say1 ! t[n's own s\l4  ,?is is a po9t
 t %\ld n be ov]look$1 z ! ,dut* "* &   
demean\r are two ?+s (t5 misund]/ood1   
:i* c]ta9ly require "s  insight &       
explanation 9 ord] to be appreciat$4    
,! mod]n civiliz$ p]son :o f\nd himself 
transplant$ 9 ,am/]dam  #bej ye>s ago1  
might c]ta9ly be displeas$ ) ! behavi\r 
( ev5  ! bett] classes4  ,we readily    
conc$e t _! mann]s 7 r raw  & lack+ 9   

ref9em5t4  ,sir ,william ,temple1 9 8   
8,obs]vations10  publi%$ ?ree ye>s aft] 
,rembr&t's dea?1 calls ! ,holl&]s       
8cl[ni% & blunt10 & ?is typifies !m 9 _!
 attitude t[>ds  intellectual =eign p4  
,among/ !mselves1 ev5 9 circles :]e a   
ta/e = art & sci5ce 0 well develop$1    
co>se fe/ivals1 excessive  meals1 &     
gross hum\r 0 (t5 met )1 peculi>ities1  
h[ev]1 :i*  ! ,dut*man _h 9 common )    
,anglo-,saxons1 ,g]mans1 & o!r ,nor!rn  
races at t "t4  ,! s5se ( indep5d5ce &  
self-reliance1 !n  v /rongly develop$ 9 
! ,holl&]s1 h9d]$ ! improvem5t :i*  !   
exp]i5ce ga9$ f =eign j\rneys to ,france
 & ,italy1 ( a few  patricians1 might h 
br\ght4  ,!re 0 also ! fact ( ,am/]dam  
nev] hav+ be51 l ,! ,hague1 a pr9cely   
resid5ce ) its trail (  ambassadors &   
nobility1 = :i* reason ! ,holl&]s 9     
,am/]dam  rema9$ m !mselves1 a          
*>act]i/ic ev5 evid5t 9 our day4  ,b  if
 _! mann]s =m]ly lagg$ some:at beh9d1 we
 mu/ n =get t  mo/ ( _! natural /]l+    
qualities 7 all[$ to develop freely4    

,^! *>act]i/ics d n always /rike !      
=eign] at fir/ sight1  hidd5 z !y are by
 a c]ta9 sl[ness 9 expression & heav9ess
 9  deportm5t1 spr++ f ! ,holl&]'s habit
 ( delib]ation4  ,:at  frequ5tly is tak5
 = coldness1 = ins5sibility1 =          
haught9ess1  appe>s to be res]ve :i* is 
put aside only :5 ! ,holl&] feels  v    
sure ( 8 op9ion4  ,to ^! typical        
qualities ( a trad+ nation  mu/ be add$ 
a p]sev]ance ( w & a det]m9ation to     
atta91 :i*  are (t5 wrongly int]pret$ z 
egotism4  ,any "o :o has a real fri5d   
among ,dut*m5 w appreciate him z a v    
/aun* "o1 al?\gh x may  h tak5 "s "t to 
break ! res]ve6  ,op5ness1              
good-he>t$ness1  g5]osity1 w !n be      
detect$ :]e !y 7 at fir/ n suspect$4  ,x
 may n[ be und]/ood t ! int]c\rse )     
,rembr&t 0 f> f  easy1 because he 0 a   
typical ,holl&]1 good-natur$1 b ) an    
extra  am\nt ( impulsiv5ess &           
self-e/eem1 z may be ga!r$ f 8          
biography & f 8 "w4  ,consequ5tly1 if he
 _h num]\s  acqua9tances1 8 real fri5ds 

7 n _m4  ,we f9d = in/ance few  traces (
 intimate fri5d%ip ) o!r pa9t]s1 except+
 8 pupils1  al?\gh 8 fell[-arti/s 7 v   
num]\s4  ,! l&scape-pa9t]  ,roghman & ! 
ri* m>9e pa9t]-amateur ,van de          
,cappelle1 p]haps also  ,asseln1 are    
ab\t ! only ones :o seem to h be5 9     
close relation  ) ! ma/]4  ,( 8 pupils !
 mo/ promis+ ones1 ,bol & ,fl9ck1       
rapidly e/rang$ f _! ma/] bo? socially &
 arti/ically1--o!rs  l ,maes1 de ,geld]1
 & ,hoog/rat5 return$ to _! native t[n  
,dordre*t4 ,only ,van d5 ,eeckh\t &     
,philips ,kon9ck appe> to h  rema9$ on  
intimate t]ms ) ,rembr&t4  ,to 8        
arti/-fri5ds we may  "h add !           
calligraph] ,liev5 ,copp5ol1 ^: f9e et*$
 portraits by  ,rembr&t ! read] w       
rememb]1 & v likely1 too1 ! celebrat$   
silv]smi? ,lutma1 a man ( a v p]sonal   
tal5t4    ,aft] :at 0 said ( ! t[n's &  
its burgh]s' outw>d appe>ance1 we  w\ld 
d well to devote ano!r mom5t's att5tion 
to :at we call$ !  t[n's s\l & obs]ve m 
closely ! intellectual life ( ,am/]dam1 

?us facilitat+ a m g5]al und]/&+ ( !    
p]iod4    ,at ! "t :5 ,rembr&t e/abli%$ 
himself 9 ,am/]dam1 a great  improvem5t 
_h tak5 place 9 its religi\s conditions4
 ,ev] s9ce #aegh               ! t[n _h 
,plate #bg4 ,portrait ,( ,jan ,lutma4   
,plate #bg4 ,portrait ,( ,jan ,lutma4   
,f an impression1 9 ! ,fir/ ,/ate1      
( ,rembr&t's et*+1 9 ! ,museum ( ,f9e   
,arts1 ,bo/on4      be5 exclusively     
,prote/ant1 b int]nal diss5sions _h     
succe$$ !  abolition ( ! ,roman ,ca?olic
 ,*ur*1 & 9 ! beg9n+ ( !  sev5te5?      
c5tury _h result$ 9 int5se factional    
feel+4  ,t[>ds  #afcj ?is /orm _h       
subsid$ & ! magi/rates1 al?\gh !mselves 
cl++ to ! ,re=m$ ,prote/ant ,*ur*1 did n
 fur!r mole/ o!r  sects1 su* z !        
,remon/rants1 ,lu!rans1 ,m5nonites1 &   
,walloons1 :o  7 p]mitt$ to build _! own
 *ur*es4  ,! ,ca?olics also 7 aga9  able
 to fulfill _! religi\s duties on       
condition t !y avoid$  o/5tation4  ,!   
,jews (ficiat$ 9 _! own ,synagogues &   
n[h]e  enjoy$ great] lib]ty ?an 9       

,am/]dam47#e7 ,! royal road ( religi\s  
tol]ance1 r>e 9 ^? days1 0 m & m        
delib]ately tak51 &  x s\nds well to he>
 h[ 9 #affj ,gov]nor ,/uyvesant1 (      
,new-,am/]dam  7,new ,york71 receives f 
8 directors 9 ,am/]dam ! foll[+         
admonition to be less rigor\s aga9/ o!r 
sects3 8,let ev]ybody rema9  unmole/$ z 
long z he behaves mode/ly & peacefully1 
z long z he  does damage to nobody &    
does n oppose ! magi/rates4  ,?is       
pr9ciple  ( /atesman%ip & =be>ance 0    
always hon\r$ by ! gov]nm5t (  ?is city 
& ! consequ5ce 01 t ! p]secut$ & !      
d[ntrodd5  f all c\ntries congregat$ 9  
?is hav5 ( refuge4  ,tread 9 its        
foot/eps & y w be bless$40 ,?is         
attitude1 tak5 by ! public  au?orities1 
greatly promot$ g5]al welf>e1           
spiritually z well z  mat]ially4 ,we may
 conclude f ,rembr&t's "w h[ prejudices 
7 !n  ov]come & h[ freely ! lead+       
intellects int]mix$3 ! ,calv9i/ic       
,re=m$ ,m9i/] ,sylvius1 ! ,m5nonite     
,m9i/] ,cornelis ,anslo1 !  ,jewi%      

doctor ,ephraim ,bonus1 ! ,rabbi        
,m5asseh-b5-,israel1 :om we h  m5tion$  
be=e1 7 among ! ma/]'s intimate fri5ds1 
or 7 at  lea/ s portray$ by him t we    
und]/& f ! lov+ application1  manife/$ 9
 8 "w1 h[ deeply he appreciat$ _! highly
 cultur$  m9d & he>t4    ,?is fre$om (  
religion w5t h& 9 h& ) an animat$ m5tal 
evolution & naturally fav\r$ x          
consid]ably4 ,at ! "t (  ,rembr&t's     
settlem5t 9 ,am/]dam we f9d pro( ( ?is 9
 !  f\ndation1 9 #afcb1 ( a classical   
s*ool1 ! =]unn] ( ! lat]  univ]sity1    
call$ ! 8,a!num illu/re10 :]e !         
celebrat$  pr(essors ,vossius & ,van    
,ba]le 7or ,b>loeus7 initiat$ _m y\?s   
into  ! secrets ( philosophy1 languages1
 & o!r sci5ces4  ,)9 !  lead+ classes ( 
,am/]dam's population1 support$ by !    
great  m]*ants1 int]e/ 9 matt]s ( art & 
sci5ce /rongly develops1  ?\gh z we     
notic$ be=e1 9 ! case ( ! t[n-hall      
ar*itecture1  ) a m>k$ pref]5ce =       
classicism & all =eign civilization4  ,x
  seems z ?\gh ^! clev] m]*ants c\ld n  

und]/& t _! own  g5ial c\ntrym5 7       
suffici5tly gift$ & q capable (  a/oni%+
 ! _w by _! "w2 ?is increas+ lack (     
mutual  appreciation is n s a/oni%+1 if 
we take into consid]ation  ,holl&'s1 &  
especially ,am/]dam's1 rapid gr[?1 mak+ 
all ^?  p 7aside f ! great arti/s1 :o 7 
suffici5tly confid5t 9  _! own p[]s71   
feel small & humble 9 face ( ! firmly   
e/abli%$  fame & m]its ( ! classics & ! 
,italians4  ,! l>ge & f]tile  ,s*ool (  
,am/]dam pa9t]s1 ,rembr&t =emo/ among   
!m1 felt ?is  ke5ly3 l&scapes ( ,italy &
 allegorical & my?ological subjects 7   
pref]r$ to ! productions ( an art       
int5sely national1 ! s9c]ity  ( :i*     
fail$ to impress ! ,dut* amateurs4  ,ev5
 portraiture1 an art  :]e s9c]ity is s  
indisp5sable1 felt ! effects ( ! p's    
bl9dness1 & 9 ! la/ ye>s ( ,rembr&t's   
life we see ^?  portrait-pa9t]s com+ to 
! =e1 :o did away ) true expression (   
"* & jo9$ ! private burgh]s 9 _! decad5t
 pr$ilection  = artificiality 9 dress & 
appe>ance4    ,x is n to be wond]$ at1 t

 on ?is f]tile ,am/]dam soil intellect  
& art blossom$ spl5didly 9 o!r ways     
also4  ,music 0 9 great  fav\r & c\ld   
boa/ a celebrity3 ,sweel9ck1 ! organi/ &
 compos]4  ,besides ?is !re 0 a great   
lit]>y movem5t2 to emphasize its        
importance x suffices to say t half ( ! 
lit]>y productions ( !  ,ne!rl&s 9 !    
sev5te5? c5tury 7 by ,am/]dam writ]s4   
,!  ord9>y public 0 r sl[ 9 recognis+ _!
 m]its1 & z a rule  only e/imat$ poetry 
:5 x _h an edify+ & moralis+ t5d5cy4  ,a
  practical use 0 made ( ! poets1 :5    
pi?y v]ses or inscriptions =  gables or 
in/itutions 7 ne$$ & :5 w$d+-p>ties1    
bir?s &  dea?s1 necessitat$ ! sc>cely   
ev] fail+ poems4  ,nev]!less highly     
m]itori\s & la/+ "w 0 produc$ by !      
popul> poets1 su* z  ,br$]ode & ,/>t]1 &
 ,samuel ,co/]1 :o f\nd$ 9 #afag ! fir/ 
p]man5t !atre 7de ,duyts*e ,akademie1   
i4e4 ! ,dut* ,academy71 ! m  ref9$ &    
classically educat$ ,ho(t1 :o1 l ,g]>d  
,br&t1 also  produc$ excell5t prose1 !  
g5ial & univ]sal ,vondel1 ! greate/ (   

all1 & ! poets ( less orig9ality l      
,&ries ,pels1 ,rey] ,anslo 7n  to be    
confut$ ) ,rembr&t's fri5d ! cl]gyman   
,cornelis ,claesz4  ,anslo71 ,jan ,vos1 
,jan ,hz4 ,krul1 ,j]emias de ,deck]1    
pass+ ov] 9 sil5ce  ^? ( a subsequ5t    
g5]ation4  ,only ! la/ ?ree are kn[n to 
h  be5 on intimate t]ms ) ,rembr&t2 no  
traces appe> 9 ! arti/'s  "w ( any      
fri5dly relation ) ! o!rs1 especially ) 
! great  ,vondel1 & on ?is gr\nd we may 
safely say t su* a relation is n  v     
likely to h exi/$1 because ! h>d-work+  
pa9t] _h a homely  life1 & all relations
 he _h ) l5d+ m5 ( 8 "t g5]ally  reflect
 !mselves ei!r 9 8 pictures1 draw+s1 or 
et*+s4  ,am\g  ! latt] we meet "o p]son 
:om we %\ld n omit1 because he is !     
repres5tative ( ano!r class ( p ?an we h
 m5tion$ above1  namely ,jan ,six1 ! son
 ( a weal?y silk-dy] & textile          
manufactur]1  :o cont9u$ 8 fa!rs bus9ess
 till #afeb & :o1 aft] ,rembr&t's  dea?1
 rose to important functions 9 !        
magi/racy4  ,except+ ?is  influ5tial    

p]son1 ,rembr&t obvi\sly _h little      
intimate int]c\rse  ) ! t[n's patricians
 or au?orities1 8 art absorb+ him s mu* 
t ev5 public ev5ts ( note1 d n appe> to 
h claim$ 8  att5tion4  ,we may !re=e    
pass 9 sil5ce ! hi/oric ev5ts  co9cid+ )
 8 lifetime4  ,suffice x to say t ^?    
conc]n+  ,am/]dam exclusively1 7 n _m & 
t ev5 ! greate/ ev5ts 9  ! hi/ory ( !   
,ne!rl&s 7 9 ^? times g5]ally acc\nt$ by
  ,am/]dam's citiz5s z second>y to _!   
t[n's int]e/ z ! greate/  comm]cial     
c5tre4  ,_! magi/rates1 if !y want$ to  
promote !  city's p>ticul> int]e/1 did n
 hesitate to oppose ! ,/adh\d]'s  p[] & 
! w ( ! ,/ates ,g5]al4  ,_! solicitude &
 vigilance  = _! t[n's welf>e are q     
rem>kable2 b t _! atta*m5t  (t5 bl9d$ !m
 to _! c\ntry's m g5]al int]e/s1 becomes
  cle>1 if we consid] t ,am/]dam 0 m    
important ?an all ! t[ns  ( ! prov9ce ( 
,holl& toge!r & t ! prov9ce ( ,holl&    
alone  provid$ #fj p] c5t ( ! total     
income ( ! ,sev5 ,prov9ces =m+  ! ,dut* 
,republic4  ,h5ce1 until ! pres5t "t1 ! 

"n ( ,holl& is  g5]ally us$ 9 designat+ 
! ,ne!rl&s4    ,tak+ all 9 all &        
rememb]+ especially :at 0 said ab\t !   
t[n's outw>d appe>ance & population1 we 
mu/ conclude t no place  c\ld h be5 m   
appropriate ?an ,am/]dam1 z ! abode ( ! 
typically ,dut* g5ius ,rembr&t4  ,a not$
 ,dut* writ]1 ,van ,deyssel1 has        
express$ ?is well 9 ! foll[+ words3     
8,rembr&t & ,am/]dam1  ^! belong s      
amaz+ly toge!r6  ,!re are nor!rn cities1
 t are  l ,am/]dam1 b x seems to u t    
,am/]dam = ! "o :o beholds  h] quietly1 
has a unique1 unequall$1 deep *>m4      
,am/]dam is ! he>t  ( ,holl& & ?is means
 t x lies 9 ! middle ( ,holl& z !  he>t 
9 a fl[]1 & t x is ! spot :]e ! mo/     
delicate beauty  ( ,holl& is f\nd40  ,no
 art is m ak9 to ! city's beauty &      
embodies x bett] ?an ! art ( ,rembr&t4  
,x is h>d to take leave ( ,rembr&t & 8  
unique abode1 )\t  all[+ ! t[n's        
imm$iate surr\nd+s to fasc9ate u by _! q
  orig9al *>m4  ,! excursion1 :i* we    
c\ld (f] our fri5ds ?r\gh  ,am/]dam's   

imm$iate neighb\rhood1 9 ,rembr&t's     
company1 w\ld1  h[ev]1 give rise to s _m
 comm5ts1 (t5 ( great local int]e/1  t  
!y w\ld f> exce$ ! limits ( ?is         
p]iodical4  ,! read]  %uuld !re=e look =
 an acc\nt ( su* an excursion along !   
,am/el  ,riv]1 pa/ dik$1 across mead[s1 
illu/rat$ by ,rembr&t's works1 9  "o ( !
 com+ numb]s ( ! ,dut* art-p]iodical    
8,oud-,holl&40              ,,footnotes 
#a ,f5elon1 ,! ,adv5tures ( ,telema*us1 
,book ,,iii1 :]e we f9d        /at$ 9 a 
footnote t ! description ( ! ,pho5ician 
t[n1        ,tyre1 actually depicts     
,am/]dam4        #b ,describ$ by ,dr4   
,h(/$e de ,groot "u numb]s #fef1 #gfa1  
#heg1        #abaa1 #accd1 & reproduc$  
by ,lippmann--,h(/$e de ,groot1 #a/     
s]ies        #afc1 #c;d s]ies #bc1 #a/  
s]ies #gb1 #b;d s]ies #gi & #h4         
#c ,! /atem5t ( a %>p-ey$ contempor>y1 !
 ,engli% ambassador1        ,sir        
,william ,temple1 is "h ( int]e/ &      
applies 9 ! fir/        place to        
,am/]dam1 !n exce$+ 9 importance all !  

o!r ,dut*        t[ns3 8,x is evid5t1 to
 ^? :o h read ! mo/1 &        travell$ !
 f>!/1 t no c\ntry c be f\nd ei!r 9 !   
pres5t age 7i4e4 #afgb71 or ^u record ( 
any /ory1 :]e s va/        a trade has  
be5 manag$1 z 9 ! n>r[ compass ( ! f\r  
m>itime ,prov9ces ( ?is commonweal?     
7i4e4 ! ,dut* ,republic73        nay1 x 
is g5]ally e/eem$ t !y h m %ipp+ belong 
to        !m1 ?an !re does to ! re/ (   
,europe40  7,obs]vations on !           
,unit$ ,prov9ces1 ,*ap4 ,,vi1 p4 #ahb74 
#d ,x is int]e/+ to note "h ! foll[+    
op9ions ( a        contempor>y1 ,sir    
,william ,temple3 8,!re are "s cu/oms or
        dispositions1 t seem to run     
g5]ally ?r\gh all ^! degrees        ( m5
 among ! !m2 z great frugality1 & ord]1 
9 _!        exp5ses4  ,_! common ri*es  
lie 9 e man's hav+ m ?an        he      
sp5ds2 or1 to say x m prop]ly1 9 e man's
 sp5d+ less        ?an he has com+ 91 be
 t :at x w3 nor does x ent] into        
m5's heads among !m1 t ! common port or 
c\rse ( exp5ce        %\ld equal !      

rev5ue &1 :5 ?is happ5s1 !y ?9k at lea/ 
!y h liv$ t ye> to no purpose2 & ! tra9 
( x        discr$its a man among !m1 z  
mu* z any vici\s or prodigal            
extravagance does 9 o!r c\ntries4  ,?is 
enables e man to        be> _! extreme  
taxes1 & makes !m less s5sible ?an !y   
w\ld be 9 o!r places40 7,obs]vations ^u 
! ,unit$        ,prov9ces1 ,*ap4 ,,iv1  
p4 #aeh47        #e ,sir ,william       
,temple writes 9 #afgb3 8,x is h>dly to 
be imag9$1 h[        all ! viol5ce &    
%>pness1 :i* accompanies ! diff]5ces (  
religion 9 o!r c\ntries1 seems to be    
appeas$ or s(t5$ "h1        by ! g5]al  
fre$om :i* all m5 enjoy1 ei!r by        
all[ance or        connivance4  ,no man 
c "h compla9 ( pressure 9 8 consci5ce4  
,! p[] ( religion among !m1 :]e x is1   
lies 9 e man's        he>t40            
7,obs]vations1 ,*ap4 ,v1 p4 #ahj47