,illustration3 ,cover ,,knots1 ,,bends1 ,,splices1 ,,with ,,tables ,,of ,,strengths ,,of ,,ropes1 ,,etc41 ,,and ,,wire ,,rigging4 ,,by ,,captain ,,jutsum1 ,,cardiff4 ,revised and ,enlarged4 ,,copyright4 ,,glasgow3 ,the ,nautical ,press1 ,,james ,,brown ,,son1 ,,nautical ,,and ,,engineering ,,publishers4 #aiad ,,introduction4 ,the object of this little work is to present in a compact form and systematic order a complete list of all the most useful and important workings connected with ,cordage1 and a lucid explanation of their various formations4 ,the explanations of some of the elementary knots have been gone into with what a practical seaman of even short experience may consider almost unnecessary minuteness1 but the aim throughout has been to render the work of value to those who approach the subject for the first time4 ,to attain this end1 diagrams are introduced at every stage1 and if followed closely step by step1 in conjunction with the text referring to them1 the learner should have no difficulty in following their construction4 ,at the same time he must remember that proficiency in what is really skilled workmanship1 amounting almost to an art1 can only be gained by much practice and perseverance1 and should gladly avail himself of any advice or help he may be able to obtain from his more experienced ship-mates4 ,j4 ,,netherclift ,,jutsum4 v ,,contents4 ,,page ,the ,construction of ,ropes 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #a ,common ,whipping1 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #c ,knots1 etc41 formed by a ,single ,rope's-end-- ,overhand ,knot 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #e ,figure of #h 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #e ,simple ,clinch 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #e ,running or ,inside ,clinch 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #f ,outside ,clinch 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #g ,buntline ,hitch 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #g ,bowline 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #h ,running ,bowline 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #i ,half ,hitch 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #aj ,round ,turn and ,two ,half ,hitches 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #aa ,clove ,hitch 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #ab ,rolling ,hitch 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #ac ,timber ,hitch 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #ad ,fisherman's ,bend 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #ae ,topsail ,halliard ,bend 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #af ,stun'sail ,bend 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #ag ,blackwall ,hitch 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #ag ,midshipman's ,hitch 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #ah ,double ,blackwall ,hitch 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #ai ,knots1 etc41 made on the ,bight of a ,rope-- ,a ,bowline on the ,bight 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #bj ,marlinespike ,hitch 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #ba ,sheepshank 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #bb ,catspaw 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #bb ,knots1 ,bends1 etc41 for ,uniting ,ropes-- ,reef ,knot 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #bd ,common or ,sheet ,bend 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #bd ,single ,carrick ,bend 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #bf ,double ,carrick ,bend 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #bg ,diamond ,knot 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #bg ,knots formed on ,ropes by their own ,strands-- ,wall ,knot 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #cj-cc ,double ,wall ,knot 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #cc ,crown ,knot 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #cc ,manrope ,knot 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #cd ,stopper ,knot 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #cd ,single ,matthew ,walker 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #ce ,double ,matthew ,walker 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #cf ,another form of ,diamond ,knot 7,single7 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #ch ,double ,diamond ,knot 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #ci ,shroud ,knot 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #dj ,spritsail ,sheet ,knot 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #da ,splices-- ,eye ,splice 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #dc ,short ,splice 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #dd ,cut ,splice 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #de ,long ,splice 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #de ,grommet 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #df ,wire ,splicing-- ,eye ,splice 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #dg ,long ,splice 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #dh ,purchases-- ,single ,whip 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #di ,double ,whip 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #di ,runner 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #ej ,gun ,tackle 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #ej ,handy ,billy or ,jigger 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #ea ,watch or ,luff ,tackle 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #ea ,double ,luff 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #eb ,three-fold ,purchase 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #eb ,four-fold ,purchase 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #ec ,single ,spanish ,burton 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #ec ,double ,spanish ,burton 7two forms7 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #ed ,spanish ,windlass 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #ee ,miscellaneous ,odds and ,ends-- ,palm and ,needle ,whipping 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #ef ,west ,country ,whipping 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #ef ,american ,whipping 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #eg ,to ,point a ,rope ,end 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #eg ,turk's ,head 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #eh-fj ,mousing a ,hook 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #fj ,securing ,lead ,line to ,lead 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #fa ,fitting a ,flag 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #fa ,cringles 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #fa-fd ,lengthening the ,rope of a ,sail 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #fd ,jury ,knot 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #fe-ff ,sling for a ,barrel 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #fg-fh ,chain ,knot 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #fh-fi ,double ,chain 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #fi-gj ,twist or ,plain ,knot 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #ga ,wire ,rope ,splicing1 etc4-- ,how to ,handle ,wire ,rope 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #gb ,set of ,wire ,rope ,splicing ,tools 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #gd ,directions for ,splicing 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #gf-gh ,splicing ,thimbles 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #gh-hb ,tables showing the ,respective ,weights and ,strengths of ,various ,cordage 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #hc-hf #a ,,the ,,construction ,,of ,,ropes4 ,rope1 the term being used in its widest construction1 is made from almost every pliable material1 but is generally composed of hemp1 manila1 coir1 cotton1 steel1 iron1 or copper wire4 ,for the present we will confine ourselves to those having their origin in the vegetable kingdom1 and more especially to those made from hemp and manila4 ,these are divided into three classes3-- 7#a74 ,a ,hawser-laid ,rope1 which is composed of three strands laid up generally right-handed 7that is1 the direction taken by the strands in forming the rope runs always from left to right7 7,fig4 #a47 7#b74 ,a ,shroud-laid ,rope1 also laid up right-handed1 but consisting of four strands 7,fig4 #b7 with a heart in the centre4 7#c74 ,a ,cable-laid ,rope1 which is composed of three right-handed hawser-laid ropes laid up together left-handed1 so that it may be said to consist of nine strands 7,fig4 #c71 or it may be formed by three left-handed ropes laid up right-handed 7,fig4 #d74 #b ,illustration3 ,fig4 #a4 ,fig4 #b4 ,fig4 #c4 ,in ,fig4 #d we show a more complete analysis of its construction 7in this case a right-handed cable-laid rope74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #d4 #c ,first we see the cable e formed by the three ropes d1 f1 and g2 whilst the rope g is dissected to show the strands forming it1 c1 h1 j2 and in the strand h we see b1 the yarn composing the strand1 and a a yarn teased out to show the original fibre4 ,the end of a rope must always be secured in some way1 or it is evident from its construction that it will on the slightest usage become frayed out4 ,the commonest method is by placing on an ordinary whipping1 which is done as follows3--,first lay the end of a length of twine along the end of the rope1 and then commencing at the part furthest from the rope's end take a half dozen or more turns around both the rope and twine end 7,fig4 #e74 ,then lay the twine in the form of a loop along the rope and over the turns already taken1 as in ,fig4 #f4 ,to finish off take that portion of the loop designated a1 and continue taking turns tightly round the rope and part b of the twine until the loop is nearly all used up2 pull through the remainder snugly by part c1 and cut off short when1 no end of twine will be visible as in ,fig4 #g4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #e4 ,fig4 #f4 ,fig4 #g4 #d ,considering that we now have at our disposal a small sized rope with the end whipped1 we will at once proceed to the formation of the most elementary knots and hitches1 namely1 those formed by a single rope's end4 ,fig4 #h shows a common loop1 by which most of the following knots1 etc41 are commenced4 ,note exactly how the loop lies1 and let us letter its parts clearly for future reference4 ,the part of rope extending from #a to #b is known as the standing part which we will call a1 the portion included between #b and #c following round the loop by y and z is termed the bight which we will call b1 and from #c to #d is known as the end e4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #h4 ,then starting in each case from the position shown in ,fig4 #h we make the following knots1 etc3-- #e 7#a74 ,an ,overhand ,knot4--,place e up through bight b1 and draw taut 7,fig4 #i74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #i4 7#b74 ,a ,figure of ,eight ,knot4--,back e round behind a1 bring over part z and dip down through bight b and haul taut 7,fig4 #aj74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aj4 7#c74 ,a ,simple ,clinch is formed by closing up the initial loop to form a small ring and securing by a seizing--a small lashing at d 7,fig4 #aa74 #f ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aa ,one of the preceding knots is generally put in the end of running gear to prevent it from coming unrove from the fair-leads or blocks4 7#d74 ,a ,running or ,inside ,clinch is the foregoing1 formed by the end of a rope on its own standing part1 and is often used for securing buntlines to the foot of a sail 7,fig4 #ab74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ab4 #g 7#e47 ,an ,outside ,clinch1 as may be inferred from its name1 is formed in a similar manner1 but the end c is brought round on top1 that is1 away from the bight 7,fig4 #ac74 ,it is used in cases where it is essential that the end should not be in a position to jam1 but always ready for slipping at a moment's notice1 as in securing cable ends1 etc4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ac4 7#f74 ,a ,buntline ,hitch 7an alternative method of securing buntlines to a sail7 is commenced as in making an outside clinch1 but instead of putting on a seizing1 take a longer end c1 pass it over y1 bring up through bight b1 and tuck the end again over part y and through the last loop formed1 so that the end c lies close to the commencement of part z 7,fig4 #ad74 #h ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ad4 7#g74 ,a ,bowline4--,reverting to our original loop 7,fig4 #h71 first taking part z in the right hand with y in the left1 throw a loop over c1 the end1 as in ,fig4 #ae4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ae4 #i ,secondly1 lead c round behind part a and pass it down through the last made loop1 as indicated by the dotted line1 and haul taut as in ,fig4 #af4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #af4 7#h74 ,a ,running ,bowline4--,form a loop with a long end c lying underneath the standing part a 7,fig4 #ag74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ag4 #aj ,now bring end c over part y and with it form the bowline knot on part z just as in the previous case we formed it on its own part1 when it will appear as in ,fig4 #ah4 ,it is used whenever a running noose is required4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ah4 7#i74 ,the formation of a half hitch 7,fig4 #ai71 and two half hitches 7,fig4 #bj7 is sufficiently indicated by those diagrams4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ai4 #aa ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bj4 ,the commonest method of making a rope's end fast to a bollard1 etc41 is by taking a round turn and two half hitches1 and stopping the end back for further security 7,fig4 #ba74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ba4 #ab 7#aj74 ,a ,clove ,hitch is really a jamming form of two half hitches1 and is principally used when a small rope has to be secured to a larger one and the end still kept free to pass along for further purposes1 as in securing ratlines to the shrouds4 ,its formation is shown in three successive stages 7,figs4 #bb1 #bc1 #bd74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bb4 ,fig4 #bc4 ,fig4 #bd4 #ac 7#aa74 ,a ,rolling ,hitch is commenced and finished like a clove hitch1 but as will be seen from the three diagrams 7,figs4 #be1 #bf1 #bg7 illustrating its construction1 there is an intermediate round turn between the first and last hitches4 ,it is principally used for securing the tail of a handy billy or snatch block to a larger rope1 or when hanging off a rope with a stopper4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #be4 ,fig4 #bf4 ,fig4 #bg4 #ad ,note that the round turn in 7,fig4 #bf7 is taken round both the standing part a and the larger rope4 ,the great value of this hitch is its non-liability to slip in the direction ,b 7,fig4 #bg74 ,if1 however1 owing to an extremely severe strain or other causes the hitch is inclined to slip1 the end e should be backed round part d of the first rope1 that is1 twisted around it in long lays in the opposite direction to that in which the hitch was formed1 and the end secured by a stop 7,fig4 #bh74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bh4 7#ab74 ,a ,timber ,hitch is a useful way of securing a rope quickly to a plank1 but when there is to be a long and continuous strain1 or when it is required to keep the end of a piece of timber pointed steadily in one direction1 it should be supplemented with a half hitch 7,figs4 #bi1 #cj74 #ae ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bi4 ,fig4 #cj4 ,the timber hitch itself consists simply of a half hitch taken with a rather long end1 which is used up by twisting it back around its own part of the hitch4 ,in ,fig4 #bi the hitch is purposely left very loose so that its formation may be the more easily seen4 7#ac7 ,a ,fisherman's ,bend is formed by taking two round turns around the object to which the rope is to be secured1 and then backing the end round in the form of a half hitch under both the standing part and second round turn4 ,the end may be further secured by taking a half hitch #af around its own part or by stopping it to it 7,figs4 #ca1 #cb71 the dotted line showing the next direction the end c must take4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ca4 ,fig4 #cb4 ,it is used when securing a hauling line to the ring of the kedge1 or for bending a rope to a bucket1 etc41 and is often called a bucket hitch4 7#ad74 ,a ,topsail ,halyard ,bend4--,this bend is never seen in deep water ships1 but is sometimes used on board yachts4 ,it is commenced in a similar manner to a fisherman's bend1 but three round turns are first taken around the spar1 the end being backed around the standing part a and then led under all three turns as in ,fig4 #cc1 and then again backed over the last two round turns and under the first1 as shown in ,fig4 #cd4 #ag ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cc4 ,fig4 #cd4 7#ad74 ,a ,stun'sail ,halyard ,bend is simply a ,fisherman's bend with the end backed again over the last round turn and under the first 7,fig4 #ce74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ce4 7#ae74 ,a ,blackwall ,hitch is a quick way of temporarily securing a rope to a hook4 ,as will be seen from the illustration 7,fig4 #cf7 it consists of a half hitch1 the standing part a as soon as it receives the strain jamming #ah the end part c4 ,it holds much more firmly than would be imagined at first sight4 ,by taking another round turn at b before passing the end c under a1 it will hold more securely4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cf4 7#ag74 ,a ,midshipman's ,hitch is sometimes used instead of a ,blackwall hitch1 and will hold better if the rope is at all greasy4 ,it is made by first forming a ,blackwall hitch and then taking the underneath part and placing it over the bill of the hook 7,fig4 #cg74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cg4 #ai 7#ah74 ,a ,double ,blackwall ,hitch is made by taking the bight of the rope and placing it across the neck of the strop of the block1 crossing it behind1 then placing the under part over the hook and crossing the upper part on top of it 7,fig4 #ch74 ,it holds better than either of the two preceding hitches4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ch4 #bj ,,knots1 ,etc41 ,,made ,,on ,,the ,,bight ,,of ,a ,,rope1 ,,that ,,is1 ,,without ,,utilising ,,the ,,ends4 7#a74 ,a ,bowline on the ,bight--,using both parts of the rope together1 commence as in making an ordinary bowline 7,fig4 #ci74 ,to finish off1 open out bight c1 and taking it in the direction indicated by the dotted line1 pass the whole knot through it and haul taut1 when it will appear as in ,fig4 #dj4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ci4 ,fig4 #dj4 #ba 7#b74 ,a ,marline-,spike ,hitch is used for getting a purchase with a marline-spike1 capstan bar1 etc41 when putting on a seizing or lashing4 ,by ,fig4 #da it will be seen to consist of the standing part picked through a loop laid over it1 so that the spike lies under the standing part and over the sides of the loop4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #da4 7#c74 ,a ,sheep ,shank is used for shortening a rope4 ,gather up the amount desired in the form of ,fig4 #db4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #db4 ,then with parts a and b form a half hitch round the two parts of the bight as in ,fig4 #dc4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #dc4 #bb ,to render it still more dependable1 the bight a and b may be seized or toggled to the standing parts as in ,figs4 #dd and #de4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #dd4 ,fig4 #de4 7#d74 ,a ,catspaw is formed in a rope to make a temporary loop for hooking on the block of a tackle4 ,first throw back a bight as in ,fig4 #df4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #df4 #bc ,then taking hold of a and b in either hand twist them up as in ,fig4 #dg2 bring together the two eyes a and b and hook in the tackle4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #dg4 #bd ,,knots1 ,,bends1 ,,and ,,hitches ,,for ,,uniting ,,ropes4 7#a74 ,a ,reef ,knot4--,the simplest of all knots1 and is always used when a common tie is required4 ,its formation may be easily traced in ,figs4 #dh1 #di1 #ej4 ,having constructed the knot as far as ,fig4 #dh1 be sure part a is kept in front of part b as here shown1 and the end c led in according to the direction of the dotted line4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #dh4 ,fig4 #di4 ,fig4 #ej4 7#b74 ,a ,common ,bend or ,sheet ,bend4--,in making a bend the ends of the two ropes are not used simultaneously as in forming a reef knot1 but an eye or loop is first formed in the end of one of the ropes as in ,fig4 #ea1 and the other rope's end is then rove through it in various ways according to the bend desired4 #be ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ea4 ,to form a ,sheet ,bend1 pass the second rope's end underneath the eye at point a and bring up through the loop1 then form with it a half hitch round c and b 7,fig4 #eb74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #eb4 ,it will hold still better and is less likely to jamb if the end c is passed round again as in ,fig4 #ec4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ec4 #bf 7#c74 ,for bending two hauling lines together use a ,carrick ,bend4 ,first form with hawser ,no4 #a a loop as in ,fig4 #ed4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ed4 ,pass the second hawser under the first at a1 bring up through the eye b1 back it over the cross at c1 and bring up again towards you through the eye b1 and then stop the ends of each hawser to their own respective parts 7,fig4 #ee74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ee4 #bg 7#d74 ,a ,double ,carrick ,bend is formed in precisely a similar manner1 but a complete round turn is taken around the cross of the first hawser at c1 and then led up again through the eye b and finished off as before 7,fig4 #ef74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ef4 7#e74 ,a ,diamond ,knot formed by the two ends of a rope is really a fancy knot4 ,it is often made with ,hambro' line in forming lanyards for marline-spikes1 knives1 etc4 ,it is a pretty knot and very easily made4 ,first lay one of the cords in a loop shaped as in ,fig4 #eg4 #bh ,notice carefully how this loop is lettered1 and then1 taking up the second cord1 lay it under the loop at a1 straight along also under the loop at b1 now bring it over the first cord at c and under it at d and over it at e1 then dip it under its own part now lying between a and b1 and lead it over the first cord at f4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #eg4 ,the knot1 still in an unfinished state1 will now appear as in ,fig4 #eh4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #eh4 #bi ,now lead the ends in the direction indicated by the dotted lines 7taking care beforehand that you have them sufficiently long for the purpose71 and bring them both up through the opening a4 ,bring the two standing parts b and c together1 and gradually render all parts in turn to work up the knot as tight as possible1 when it will appear as in ,fig4 #ei4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ei4 #cj ,,knots ,,formed ,,on ,,ropes ,,by ,,their ,,own ,,strands4 ,although our next series of knots are generally known as fancy knots they are by no means merely ornamental1 many of them playing important parts in the standing rigging of a ship4 7#a74 ,to ,form a ,wall ,knot4--,first unlay the rope so that the strands appear as in ,fig4 #fj4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fj4 #ca ,holding the rope with the left hand1 with the right lead strand a in the direction indicated by the dotted line1 viz41 under strand b and up between strands b and c 7,fig4 #fa74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fa4 ,then with strand b form a similar loop1 enclosing strands a and c1 and bringing the end of strand b up between a and d 7,fig4 #fb74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fb4 #cb ,now with strand c form a similar loop1 enclosing strands b and a by leading the end of strand c up through the loop e in strand a 7,fig4 #fc74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fc4 ,finally1 work all parts well taut1 whip the ends of the strands together and cut off short 7,fig4 #fd74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fd4 #cc 7#b74 ,a ,double ,wall ,knot is formed by allowing each strand to again follow its lead as given in a single wall knot1 opening out the first loops again with a pricker sufficiently for the purpose4 ,the three strands are as before brought up in the centre and cut off short after whipping them together4 ,this knot is also known as a stopper knot4 7#c74 ,a ,crown ,knot is formed by interlacing the strands in a similar manner to a wall knot1 but the strands are successively led over each other instead of under4 ,its construction will be easily followed in ,fig4 #fe4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fe4 ,double crowning is done by following round each strand again alongside its first lead4 ,our next two knots are but combinations of the wall and crown4 #cd 7#d74 ,a ,manrope ,knot is made by first forming a wall and then crowning it 7,fig4 #ff47 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ff4 ,then follow round the wall again1 and lastly1 follow round the crown1 when the finished knot will appear as in ,fig4 #fg4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fg4 ,a knot formed by making a crown first and then a wall1 and afterwards following round the crown and wall again is another form of the ,stopper ,knot4 ,it is very similar in appearance when finished to a ,manrope ,knot4 #ce 7#e74 ,a ,single ,matthew ,walker4--,to make this knot commence similarly to a wall1 but pass the first strand a under both b and c1 as in ,fig4 #fh4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fh4 ,then pass b under both strands c and a1 and bring up through the loop first formed by a 7,fig4 #fi74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fi4 #cf ,similarly pass c under a and b1 and bring up through the loop first formed by b 7,fig4 #gj74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #gj4 7#f74 ,a ,double ,matthew ,walker will be easily learnt if you notice the difference between a single ,matthew ,walker and a ,wall ,knot4 ,in the ,wall ,knot you will have noticed that each strand is simply interlaced with the strand immediately on its right coming up through the loop formed by this second strand4 ,in the single ,matthew ,walker each strand interlaces the two strands to its right1 coming up through the loop of the third strand4 #cg ,another evolution in the same order brings us to the double ,matthew ,walker4 ,it is formed1 as will be seen by carefully following diagram #ga1 by making each strand contain in its own loop1 the other two strands1 and its own end1 that is1 each strand leads up through its own bight after interlacing the other two4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ga4 ,fig4 #gb4 ,when worked taut and finished off1 it will appear as in ,fig4 #gb4 #ch 7#g74 ,a ,single ,diamond ,knot4--,this is another method of forming the knot shown in ,fig4 #ei1 which in that case was formed by the two ends of the same rope4 ,to form it on a rope by its own strands1 unlay the rope to the place where it is desired to form the knot1 and as after the knot is made the strands will have to be laid up again1 try to preserve the original lay in the strands as much as possible4 ,now bring each of the three strands down alongside the standing part of the rope1 thus forming three bights1 and hold them thus with the left hand4 ,take the first strand a 7,fig4 #gc7 and1 putting it over the next1 b1 bring it up through the bight of the third strand c4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #gc4 #ci ,take the end of the second strand over the third and up the bight of the first4 ,the last strand is brought through over the first and up through the bight of the second4 ,haul taut1 and lay the rope up again4 ,fig4 #gd shows the loops in their places with the ends through them before they are hauled taut4 ,fig4 #ge gives the knot finished4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #gd4 ,fig4 #ge4 ,for a double diamond we first make a single diamond1 the ends are then made to follow the lead of the single knot through two single bights1 the ends coming out on top of the knot4 ,the last strand passes through two double bights4 ,the ends are then hauled taut and laid up as before 7,fig4 #gf74 #dj ,illustration3 ,fig4 #gf4 7#h74 ,a ,shroud ,knot is a method of joining two ropes4 ,each is unlaid the necessary length1 and they are then brought close together4 ,a ,wall ,knot is formed on each rope with the strands of the other 7,fig4 #gg74 ,the completed knot is shown in ,fig4 #gh1 but to make a neat job the ends should be marled and served as in ,fig4 #gi4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #gg4 ,fig4 #gh4 ,fig4 #gi4 #da 7#i74 ,a ,spritsail ,sheet ,knot4--,unlay both ends of the rope and bring the two standing parts of the rope together as in ,fig4 #hj4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #hj4 ,grasping both parts of the rope at a1 with the six strands form a ,wall ,knot1 that is1 by passing #a under #b1 #b under #c1 #c under #d1 #d under #e1 #e under #f1 and #f under the loop formed by #a4 ,this would appear too confusing if shown in a diagram1 but the knot is very easily made in practice4 ,now lay any opposite two of the strands across the top #db in an opposite direction1 and crown by passing the other four1 each in turn1 alternately over and under these two4 ,each of the six strands will then come out leading in a downward direction alongside the strands forming the first walling4 ,now follow round the walling again1 when the strands will come through in an upward direction1 each alongside a strand of the first crowning4 ,follow through the crowning once more1 and cut off the ends short1 when a handsome and useful ,stopper ,knot will result1 as shown in ,fig4 #ha4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ha4 #dc ,,splices4 7#a74 ,an ,eye ,splice is formed by unlaying the end of a rope for a short distance1 and then1 after closing up the end1 to form an eye of the desired size4 ,lay the three strands upon the standing part1 now tuck the middle strand through the strand of the standing part of the rope next to it 7against the lay of the rope71 then pass the strand on the left over the strand under which ,no4 #a strand is tucked1 and tuck it under the next1 and lastly1 put the remaining strand through the third strand on the other side of the rope 7,fig4 #hb47 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #hb4 #dd ,now tuck each strand again alternately over a strand and under a strand of the rope1 and then taper off by halving the strands before tucking the third time1 and again halve them before the fourth tuck4 ,if the strands are tucked with the lay of the rope it is termed a ,sailmaker's ,splice4 7#b74 ,a ,short ,splice is used to join two ropes when it is not required to pass through a block4 ,unlay the two ropes the required distance1 and clutch them together as in ,fig4 #hc1 that is1 so that the strands of one rope go alternately between the strands of the other4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #hc4 ,then tuck the strands of rope a into the rope b in a similar manner to that described in an eye splice1 and similarly tuck the strands of b into a 7,figs4 #hd and #he74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #hd4 ,fig4 #he4 #de 7#c74 ,a ,cut ,splice is made by laying two ropes in the position indicated in ,fig4 #hf4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #hf4 ,leaving the ropes between a a to form an oblong loop1 tuck the strands of one rope into the other as done in the eye splice4 ,splices are often wormed1 parcelled1 and served4 ,fig4 #hg shows the cut splice after this treatment4 ,a log-line splice is a cut splice1 but instead of allowing the loop to appear1 the two lines are twisted together4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #hg4 7#d74 ,a ,long ,splice is one of the most useful of splices1 as it permits the rope to run through a block just the same as an unspliced rope4 ,unlay the ends of two ropes to a distance about four times the length used in a short splice1 and then clutch them together as if about to commence a short splice4 ,now unlay one strand for a considerable distance and fill #df up the gap thus caused by twisting in the strand opposite to it of the other rope4 ,then do the same with two more strands4 ,let the remaining two strands stay as they were first placed4 ,the ropes will now appear as in ,fig4 #hh4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #hh4 ,to finish off1 tuck the ends as in a short splice1 but with the lay of the rope1 that is1 so that the tuck will continually take place around the same strand1 and taper off gradually by reducing the yarns in the strand4 7#e74 ,to ,make a ,grommet1 cut a strand about three and a half times the length of the grommet required4 ,unlay the rope carefully and keep the turns of the strand in4 ,close up the strand in the form of a ring 7,fig4 #hi71 and then pass the ends round and round in their original lay until all the intervals are filled up 7,fig4 #ij71 and then finish off the two ends as in a long splice 7,fig4 #ia74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #hi4 ,fig4 #ij4 ,fig4 #ia4 #dg ,,wire ,,splicing4 ,in splicing wire1 great care should be taken to prevent kinks getting in the rope or strands4 ,with steel wire1 always before working it1 put a stop on at the place to which you intend to unlay1 and also put a good whipping of twine at the end of each strand4 ,steel wire is six-stranded right-handed1 and has a heart of hemp4 ,flexible wire has a heart of hemp in each strand4 ,crucible wire is made in the same manner1 except that the strands are wire throughout4 ,crucible wire is used for standing rigging and flexible wire for purchases1 etc4 ,in splicing wire all tucks are made with the lay of the rope4 ,in making an eye splice the rope is handled better if hung up in a convenient position so that when standing up the eye will be at about the level of the chest of the person working4 ,a long tapering steel marline-spike is required1 and after placing it under a strand do not withdraw it until the tuck is made and all the slack of the strand drawn through4 #dh ,there are several methods in vogue for tucking the strand1 but the following is as good as any3--,tuck the first strand under two strands and all the rest under one strand respectively4 ,tuck whole again1 and this time each strand under one strand1 then halve the strands and tuck again4 ,to make a neat splice do not haul the part of the rope that has not been unlaid too close to the neck of the splice1 and in tucking the strands never take a short nip but take long lays4 ,in unlaying for a long splice1 always unlay two strands simultaneously1 to keep the rope in its original lay4 ,for a fair-sized rope unlay about #i ft4 of each end4 ,proceed as in rope splicing1 and after the three pairs of strands are in their places1 single them1 and continue to unlay and lay-in until the six meeting places of the strands are equi-distant4 ,to finish off the ends properly can only be learnt by observation and actual practice4 ,by using two marline-spikes1 the hempen heart is removed and the ends of the wire strands forced into the place it occupied1 making a very neat job when finished4 ,wire splices should be parcelled with oily canvas and served with ,hambro' line4 #di ,,purchases4 7#a7 ,single ,whip4--,a rope rove through a single block fixed in any position4 ,no power is gained 7,fig4 #ib74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ib4 7#b74 ,double ,whip4--,a rope rove through two single blocks--upper block a tail block1 lower one a movable hook block4 ,power gained--double 7,fig4 #ic74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ic4 #ej 7#c74 ,a ,runner adds an additional power to the purchase it is used with 7,fig4 #id74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #id4 7#d74 ,gun ,tackle4--single blocks4 ,power gained--twice or thrice1 according to which is the movable block 7,fig4 #ie74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ie4 #ea 7#e74 ,handy ,billy or ,jigger4--,a small tackle for general use2 a double block with a tail and single block with hook 7,fig4 #if74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #if4 7#f74 ,watch ,tackle or ,luff ,tackle4--,double hook block and single hook block 7,fig4 #ig74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ig4 #eb 7#g74 ,double ,luff4--,two double blocks 7,fig4 #ih74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ih4 7#h74 ,three-,fold ,purchase4--,two three-fold blocks4 ,power gained--six or seven times 7,fig4 #ii74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ii4 #ec 7#i74 ,four-,fold ,purchase4--,two four-fold blocks4 ,power gained--eight or nine times 7,fig4 #ajj74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ajj4 7#aj74 ,a ,single ,spanish ,burton4--,two single blocks and a hook4 ,power gained--three times 7,fig4 #aja74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aja4 #ed ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ajb4 7#aa74 ,a ,double ,spanish ,burton4--,there are two forms of this purchase--,fig4 #ajb1 by using three single blocks2 ,fig4 #ajc1 by using one double block and two single blocks4 ,power gained--five times4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ajc4 #ee 7#ab74 ,a ,spanish ,windlass4--,to rig a ,spanish ,windlass take a good strand well greased in the centre4 ,place the strand over the two parts of the rope that are to be hove together1 and bringing the ends of the strand up again1 place a bolt close to the strand4 ,take the ends of the strand and lay them up with their own parts so as to form two eyes4 ,take a round turn with this round the bolt1 put a marline-spike through each eye and heave around 7,fig4 #ajd74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ajd4 #ef ,,miscellaneous ,,odds ,,and ,,ends4 7#a74 ,a ,palm and ,needle ,whipping is a more permanent way of securing a rope's end from fraying than the common whipping put on by hand4 ,first1 place the needle under one of the strands and draw nearly the whole length of twine through4 ,take a considerable number of turns round the rope with the twine1 drawing each well taut in turn1 and finish up by following round with the needle between each strand1 forming a series of frappings1 and cut off the end of the twine short 7,fig4 #aje74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aje4 7#b74 ,a ,west ,country ,whipping is formed by middling the twine around the part of the rope to be marked and half knotting it at every half turn1 so that each half knot will be on opposite sides4 ,when a sufficient number of turns are passed1 finish it off with a reef knot4 #eg 7#c74 ,an ,american ,whipping is sometimes used for the ends of hawsers4 ,it is commenced in the same way as a common whipping1 but finished off by having both ends out in the middle of the whipping and forming a reef knot4 ,this is done by leaving the first end out when you commence to pass the turns on the bight over the last end4 7#d74 ,to ,point a ,rope ,end4--,first put a stop on at twice and a half the circumference of the rope from the end1 which will leave about the length for pointing1 unlay the rope to the stop and then unlay the strands4 ,split a number of the outside yarns and make a nettle out of each yarn4 7,a nettle is made by laying up the yarns with the finger and thumb left-handed47 ,when the nettles are made stop them back on the standing part of the rope2 then form the point with the rest of the yarns by scraping them down to a proper size with a knife1 and marl them down together with twine2 divide the nettles1 taking every other one up and every other one down4 ,pass three turns with a piece of twine--which is called the warp--very taut round the part where the nettles separate1 taking a hitch with the last turn4 ,continue to repeat this process by placing every alternate nettle up and down1 passing the warp or filling1 taking a hitch each time1 until the #eh point is to its required length4 ,it is generally finished off by working a small ,flemish eye in the end 7,figs4 #ajf and #ajg74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ajf4 ,fig4 #ajg4 7#e74 ,turk's ,head4--,the ,turk's ,head is one of the most common of the ornamental knots used at sea1 and is formed from an ordinary clove hitch 7,fig4 #ajh7 made sufficiently slack to allow for the working of the other parts4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ajh4 ,having formed the clove hitch1 pass b over c and tuck a under and up through the bight formed by c as in ,fig4 #aji4 ,it will then be found that there is another twist in #fj the parts b and c1 tuck a under e and over b4 ,then go on as in ,fig4 #aji1 and put b over c again and tuck a as before4 ,the number of crossings required depends principally on the size of the material on which the ,turk's ,head is formed4 ,to finish off as in ,fig4 #aaj1 the part a is made to follow d 7,fig #ajh7 round for three times4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aji4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aaj4 7#f74 ,mousing a ,hook4--,all hooks in running gear should be moused as in ,fig4 #aaa4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aaa4 #fa 7#g74 ,securing ,lead ,line to ,lead4--,the lead is fitted with a good wire grommet parcelled over4 ,the lead line should have a long eye spliced in it1 and is secured by passing the eye through the grommet and over the lead 7,fig4 #aab74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aab4 7#h74 ,fitting a ,flag4--,a toggle should be secured at the head of the hoist by an eye splice2 a length of rope equal to the width of the flag left below the hoist1 as this is the distance the flags should be apart1 and then a running eye splice made so as to be rapidly attached to the next flag4 7#i74 ,to ,stick a ,cringle4--,first unlay a single strand from #fb the size of rope your cringle is required to be1 whip both ends1 reeve the strand through the left hand eyelet hole in the sail1 having one end longer than the other--nearly a third--keeping the roping of the sail towards you4 ,if a thimble is to be put in the cringle1 lay up the parts of the strand together1 counting three lays2 commence with the short end of the strand towards you1 then reeve the long strand from you through the right hand eyelet hole1 taking it through the cringle1 and it will be in the right position to lay up in the vacant space left in the cringle2 when done1 the one end will hang down inside the right hand eyelet hole and the other end outside the left hand one2 the ends are then hitched by being rove through their respective eyelet holes and passed over the leech rope and under their own part1 one hitch being towards you and the other from you2 then take the ends down under one strand on the right and two on the left of cringle nearest to it2 then tuck the ends under the first two strands nearest the hitch1 heaving them well in place2 the cringle is then fidded out1 and the thimble is put in on the fore part of the sail4 ,the ends of the strand are then tucked back1 left-handed1 under one strand1 again under two1 right-handed1 as in the first place1 heaving them taut in place #fc at each tuck1 the ends are then whipped with two of their own yarns and cut off4 ,if a large cringle is needed1 count an extra number of lays--#e1 #g1 etc41 always an odd number4 7#aj74 ,to ,finish a ,cringle off on the ,crown4--,commence as before1 but after laying up the strand1 instead of forming a hitch with each end1 the ends are rove through their respective eyelet holes and tucked back under two strands of the cringles and again laid up as far as the crown1 forming a four-stranded cringle1 and finished off by tucking the ends under two strands and crossing them under the crown of the cringle and cut close off4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aac4 ,fig4 #aad4 #fd ,in working a cringle in a piece of rope the only difference is there are no eyelet holes1 therefore the strand is tucked under two strands of the rope it is to be worked in4 7#aa74 ,to ,lengthen a ,rope of a ,sail with a ,single ,strand4--,say it is necessary to give a sail one cloth more spread1 it would then be necessary to lengthen the head and foot rope4 ,supposing the width of cloth to be #b feet and the size of the rope #c in4 ,after ripping the rope off four cloths1 first of all cut the strand at the distance #b ft4 #f in4 from each other as in ,fig4 #aae4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aae4 ,cut one of the strands at a and unlay it to c1 then cut one of the strands remaining at c and unlay it to b1 laying the strand a up again as far as b2 then cut the only remaining strand at b1 which will be the centre1 when your rope will be in two parts4 ,by following the plan the wrong strand cannot possibly be cut4 ,the rope will now appear as in ,fig4 #aaf4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aaf4 #fe ,now marry the long end a to the end b1 then lay up the long strand c in the lays of the strand a1 and marry it to the other strand b as in ,fig4 #aag4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aag4 ,take a strand about #aj ft4 in length of the same size rope and marry one end to the short strand a as shown above1 then fill up the space left from a to c by laying in the new strand1 and marry the other end to the short strand c4 ,you will then have four splices to finish off as ordinary long splices 7,fig4 #aah74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aah4 7#aa74 ,jury ,knot4 ,the jury knot is useful when a jury mast has to be rigged1 as the loops form a means of attaching the necessary supports to the mast4 ,the centre k 7,fig4 #abj7 is slipped over the masthead1 and the weight brought on the stays tightens it and holds it in its position on the mast4 #ff ,it is formed by three ordinary half-hitches1 each placed behind the other and with the loop of the last laid over the first1 as in ,fig4 #aai4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aai4 ,having done this1 keep the hitches together with the right hand1 and with the left take a and dip it under b and pull c through a and b4 ,then1 holding the knot with the left hand1 place f over e1 and pull d between e and f4 ,take g in the teeth and pull on the parts g1 f1 and a4 ,the ends h and z may be either knotted or spliced4 #fg ,illustration3 ,fig4 #abj4 7#ac74 ,sling for a ,barrel4--,the following method of slinging a barrel is adopted when it is desired to hoist it up end on4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aba4 ,pass the bight a of the rope under the lower end of the barrel and bring the two parts up1 and with them #fh form an overhand knot b1 which is opened out so as to fit over the end of the barrel4 ,the bight a is placed under the cask1 and the overhand knot b is slipped over the head1 and the two ends are brought up and knotted as in ,fig4 #abb4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #abb4 7#ad74 ,chain ,knot4--,an easy and ornamental way of shortening a rope is that known as the chain knot4 ,to form it proceed as though you are going to make an ordinary overhand knot1 but instead of working with both ends use the end and a bight as in ,fig4 #abc4 #fi ,this will form the loop a1 ,fig4 #abc1 through which pass a bight of b and continue in this way until all the slack rope is used up1 and it can be finished off by running the end through the last loop 7,fig4 #abd74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #abc4 ,fig4 #abd4 7#ae74 ,double ,chain4--,the ,double ,chain is a little more intricate than the chain knot1 and is formed by taking a turn round the standing part and thus forming a loop #gj c1 through which the end a is passed1 thus forming the loop b 7,fig4 #abe74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #abe4 ,the end a is brought back and dipped down through b and this is continued as long as required1 finishing off by running the end through the last bight and hauling it taut 7,fig4 #abf74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #abf4 #ga 7#af74 ,twist ,or ,plait ,knot4--,another method of shortening a small handy rope is known as the twist or plait knot4 ,arrange the rope in such a manner that the amount to be taken up forms a bight as in ,fig4 #abg4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #abg4 ,fig4 #abh4 ,then by taking a over b and c over b1 and so on1 taking the outside one on each side alternately over the middle one1 the plait is formed4 ,to keep the plait clear1 the end has to be continually dipped through the first bight made 7,fig4 #abh74 #gb ,,how ,,to ,,handle ,,wire ,,rope1 ,,etc4 ,the following article by a ,wire ,specialist will be read with interest3-- ,when uncoiling ,wire ,rope it is important that no kinks are allowed to form1 as once a kink is made no amount of strain can take it out1 and the rope is unsafe to work4 ,if possible a turn-table should be employed 7an old cart wheel mounted on a spindle makes an excellent one72 the rope will then lead off perfectly straight without kinks4 7,see ,fig4 #abi47 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #abi4 ,fig4 #acj4 ,if a turn-table is not available the rope may be rolled along the ground as shown in ,fig4 #acj4 #gc ,in no case must the rope be laid on the ground and the end taken over 7as in ,fig4 #aca71 or kinks will result1 and the rope will be completely spoiled4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aca4 ,the life of ,wire ,rope depends principally upon the diameter of drums1 sheaves1 and pulleys2 and too much importance cannot be given to the size of the latter4 ,wherever possible the size of the pulleys should be not less than #gjj times the diameter of the largest wire in the rope1 and never less than #cjj times4 ,the diameters of drums1 sheaves1 and pulleys should increase with the working load when the factor of safety is less than #e to #a4 ,the load should not be lifted with a jerk1 as the strain may equal three or four times the proper load1 and a sound rope may easily be broken4 ,examine ropes frequently4 ,a new rope is cheaper than the risk of killing or maiming employees4 #gd ,one-fifth of the ultimate strength of the rope should be considered a fair working load4 ,in shafts and elevators where human life is constantly raised and lowered1 the working load should not be more than one-tenth of the ultimate breaking strength of the rope4 ,to increase the amount of work done1 it is better to increase the working load than the speed of the rope4 ,experience has shown that the wear of the rope increases with the speed4 ,wire ,rope should be greased when running or idle4 ,rust destroys as effectively as hard work4 ,galvanized ,wire ,rope should never be used for running rope4 ,one day's use will wear off the coating of zinc1 and the rope will soon begin to rust4 ,great care should be taken that the grooves of drums and sheaves are perfectly smooth1 ample in diameter1 and conformed to the surface of the rope4 ,they should also be in perfect line with the rope1 so that the latter may not chafe on the sides of the grooves4 ,set of ,wire ,rope ,splicing ,tools4 ,to produce the best work1 the splicer should have at his disposal a set of tools similar to those in the accompanying illustration4 ,the ,tool set consists of--#a ,tucker for ,small ,strands ,splicing2 #a ,marlin ,spike1 ,round2 #a ,marlin ,spike1 ,flatted2 #a ,pair ,special ,steel ,wire ,cutters2 #a ,serving ,mallet4 ,all of best ,cast ,steel1 ,hand ,forged4 #ge ,illustration3 ,fig #acb4 ,these ,sets may be had at prices varying from #ae_/f to #df_/-4 #gf ,directions for ,splicing4 ,,to ,,make ,,an ,,endless ,,splice4--,clamps are applied to the rope sufficiently far back from the ends to allow plenty of room for the splice1 and the men to operate in4 ,the two ends are then drawn together by means of blocks and tackle1 until they overlap each other for a space of twenty to thirty feet1 according to the size of the rope4 ,at a point from each end midway of the lap1 the rope must be bound with a good serving of ,no4 #ah or ,no4 #bj annealed wire4 ,the serving at the extreme ends is then cut off1 the strands untwisted to the new serving1 and the hemp cores also cut off so as to abut when the open bunches of strands are brought together1 and the opposite strands interlaced regularly with each other1 presenting the appearance as near as can be shown 7,fig4 #acc74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #acc4 ,after these are all correctly interlaced1 pull the ropes tightly together1 so that the cores abut against one another4 ,next take #gg strand ,no4 #a1 and as it is being unlaid1 follow it up with strand ,a1 which must be laid into its place tightly until within five feet from the end4 ,strand ,no4 #a is then cut off1 leaving it five feet long1 same length as ,a strand4 ,the remaining strands are treated the same way1 three alternate strands being laid towards the right hand and three to the left4 ,the strands being now all laid in their places1 the ends are cut off1 as with the first strands1 to five feet4 ,the appearance of splice will now be the same as in ,fig4 #acd4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #acd4 ,the next thing is to tuck in the ends1 and this is where the skill comes in4 ,before doing this1 care should be observed to see that the spliced portion of the rope is perfectly limp1 or free of tension1 otherwise this operation cannot be well performed4 ,the core is then cut and pulled out on the side corresponding with the end to be tucked in for a distance equal to the length of the end which is to replace it4 ,it is desirable1 especially if the rope is composed of small wires1 to tie the ends of the strands with soft twine or threads of jute yarn in order to keep the wires well bunched4 ,a marlin spike is then passed over #a and under two of the strands1 when the core is cut off at the proper point1 and by moving the spike along the rope spirally with the strands1 the loose end #a is passed into the core space and the spike withdrawn4 #gh ,then pull out the core on the other side1 pass the marlin spike over ,a and under two strands as before1 cut off the core1 and tuck in the end ,a in precisely the same manner1 after which the rope is twisted back again as tightly as possible1 and the clamps or other appliances that may be used are removed to the next pair of projecting ends4 ,any slight inequality in the symmetrical shape of the rope may be taken out by pounding with a wooden mallet4 ,some prefer to tuck in first all the ends projecting in one direction1 and then the ends projecting the other way2 it is immaterial in what order they are tucked in4 ,if these directions are implicitly followed1 the spliced portion of the rope will be of uniform diameter with other portions1 and will present a smooth and even appearance throughout4 ,after running a day or two1 the locality of the splice cannot be readily detected1 and the rope will be quite as strong in this portion as any other4 ,splicing ,thimbles4 ,,under ,,and ,,over ,,style--,ordinary type of ,wire ,rope4 ,serve the rope with wire or tarred yarn to suit the circumference of the thimble1 bend round thimble and tie securely in place with temporary lashing till splice is finished 7as in ,fig4 #ace74 ,open out the strands 7as in ,fig4 #acf71 taking care to keep the loose end of the rope to the left hand 7see ,fig4 #acf74 ,now insert marlin spike1 lifting two strands 7as shown in ,fig4 #acg71 and tuck away towards the right hand 7that is inserting the strand at the point1 and over the spike7 strand ,no4 #a1 pulling the strand well home4 ,next #hj insert marlin spike through next strand to the left1 only lifting one strand1 the point of the spike coming out at the same place as before4 ,tuck away strand ,no4 #b as before4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ace4 ,fig4 #acf4 ,fig4 #acg4 ,fig4 #ach4 ,the next tuck is the locking tuck4 ,insert marlin spike in next strand1 and1 missing ,no4 #c1 tuck away strand ,no4 #d from the point of the spike towards the right hand4 ,now1 without taking out the spike1 tuck away strand ,no4 #c behind the spike towards the left hand 7as shown in ,fig4 #ach74 ,now insert spike in next strand1 and tuck away strand ,no4 #e behind and over the spike4 ,no4 #f likewise4 ,pull all the loose strands well down4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aci4 ,fig4 #adj4 ,this completes the first series of tucks1 and the splice will1 if made properly1 be as ,fig4 #aci4 ,now1 starting with strand ,no4 #a and taking each strand in rotation1 tuck away under one strand and over the next strand till all the strands have been tucked four times4 ,if #ha it is intended to taper the splice1 the strands may at this point be split1 and half of the wires being tucked away as before1 the other half cut close to the splice4 ,fig4 #abg ,transcriber's note3 #adj8 shows the finished splice ready for serving over4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ada4 #hb ,it will be noticed that this style of splice possesses a plaited appearance1 and the more strain applied to the rope1 the tighter the splice will grip1 and there is no fear of the splice drawing owing to rotation of the rope4 ,,liverpool ,,or ,,spiral ,,style 7,see ,fig4 #ada74--;,hawsers1 or any ropes not hanging free and liable to spin1 may be spliced in this style1 in which the strands1 instead of being interlocked together1 are merely tucked round and round one particular strand in the rope4 ,each loose strand is of course tucked round a different strand in the rope4 ,this is sometimes called the ,liverpool style 7,see ,fig4 #ada74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ada4 #hc ,,tables ,showing ,weights1 etc41 of ,various ,cordage4 ,,kinds4 ,,length4 ,,weight4 ,reefing twine1 #bd skeins #h to #i lbs4 ,sewing twine1 #bd #h to #i lbs4 ,marline1 #ab #d lbs4 ,log lines1 #be fathoms #a to #c lbs4 ,samson lines1 #cj #c_/d lb4 ,samson lines1 #cj #a lb4 ,samson lines1 #cj #a #a_/d lbs4 ,samson lines1 #cj #a #a_/b lbs4 ,fishing lines1 #be #a_/d lb4 ,fishing lines1 #be #a_/b lb4 ,fishing lines1 #be #c_/d lb4 ,fishing lines1 #be #a lb4 ,hambro'-lines 7#f threads71 #bc #a #a_/b lbs4 ,hambro'-lines 7#i threads71 #bc #b #a_/d lbs4 ,hambro'-lines 7#ab threads71 #bc #c lbs4 ,hand lead lines1 #bj #d lbs4 ,deep sea lines1 #abj #bh lbs4 ,deep sea lines1 #abj #cb lbs4 ,deep sea lines1 #abj #cd lbs4 ,deep sea lines1 #abj #cf lbs4 #hd ,,strength ,,of ,,ropes4 ,working ,breaking ,ordinary ,hemp4 ,iron4 ,steel4 ,load4 ,strain4 ,chain4 ,cwts4 ,tons4 #b #c_/d #a #f #b #e_/af #a #a_/b #a #i #c #c #c_/d #a #e_/h #ab #d #a #c_/d #a #a_/b #ae #e #d #a_/b #a #g_/h #ah #f #b #a #e_/h #ba #g #e #a_/b #b #a_/h #a #c_/d #bd #h #i_/af #b #a_/d #bg #i #f #b #c_/h #a #g_/h #cj #aj #f #a_/b #b #e_/h #b #cf #ab #b #c_/d #b #a_/h #cg #ac #g #b #g_/h #b #a_/d #db #ad #aa_/af #g #a_/b #c #a_/h #b #c_/h #dh #af #h #c #c_/h #b #a_/b #ed #ah #c #a_/b #b #e_/h #fj #bj #h #a_/b #c #e_/h #b #c_/d #ff #bb #i #a_/b #c #g_/h #c #a_/d #gh #bf #ae_/af #aj #d #hd #bh #a #d #a_/d #c #c_/h #ij #cj #aa #d #c_/h #if #cb #d #a_/b #c #a_/b #ajh #cf #ab #d #e_/h #c #c_/d #abj #dj #he ,transcriber's note3 in the source book1 the following two tables were a single table4 ,it has been split into two due to space limitations4 ,,table ,,of ,,weights ,,and ,,breaking ,,strains4 ,circum- ference ,white ,tarred of ,rope4 ,manila ,rope4 ,hemp ,rope4 ,coir ,rope4 ,weight ,weight ,weight for #abj ,breaking for #abj ,breaking for #abj ,breaking ,fathoms4 ,strain4 ,fathoms4 ,strain4 ,fathoms4 ,strain4 ,ins4 ,ct4 ,qr4 ,lb4 ,tns4 ,cwts4 ,ct4 ,qr4 ,lb4 ,tns4 ,cwts4 ,ct4 ,qr4 ,lb4 ,tns4 ,cwts4 #a -- -- -- -- -- -- #a #a_/d -- -- -- -- -- -- #a #a_/b -- -- -- -- -- -- #a #c_/d -- -- -- -- -- -- #b #j #c #d #a #f #a #j #j #j #ai #j #b #d #j #f #b #a_/d #j #c #bf #a #ac #a #j #bg #a #b #j #b #ai #j #h #b #a_/b #a #j #bj #b #j #a #b #d #a #g #j #c #i #j #aj #b #c_/d #a #a #be #b #i #a #c #aa #a #ac #a #j #j #j #ab #c #a #c #b #b #ah #b #j #bb #b #b #a #j #bb #j #ad #c #a_/d #b #j #g #c #h #b #b #aj #b #g #a #a #ag #j #af #c #a_/b #b #a #ab #c #ai #c #j #b #b #ag #a #b #ae #j #ai #c #c_/d #b #b #ba #d #aa #c #a #ba #c #g #a #c #ad #a #b #d #c #j #f #e #c #d #j #j #c #ag #b #j #af #a #e #d #a_/d #c #b #j #e #ag #d #b #j #d #d #b #a #ah #a #h #d #a_/b #c #c #bj #f #aa #d #c #bd #d #aj #b #b #bj #a #ab #e #d #b #bd #h #b #f #j #ae #e #aj #c #a #h #b #j #e #a_/b #e #c #af #i #af #g #a #ae #f #aj #d #j #j #b #h #f #g #j #h #aa #ac #h #c #d #h #i #d #c #d #b #ah #f #a_/b #h #a #j #ac #ad #aj #a #ab #i #i #e #b #ab #c #f #g #i #a #bj #ae #ah #ab #j #h #aa #i #f #b #d #c #ah #h #ab #j #bd #bj #ad #af #j #j #ae #i #h #b #h #e #j ,galvanised ,galvanised ,circum- ,galvanised ,patent ,steel ,patent ,steel ference ,rigging ,flexible ,extra ,flexible of ,rope4 ,wire ,rope4 ,wire ,rope4 ,wire ,rope4 ,weight ,weight ,weight per ,breaking per ,breaking per ,breaking ,fathom4 ,strain ,fathom4 ,strain ,fathom4 ,strain ,lbs4 ,tons4 ,lbs4 ,tons4 ,lbs4 ,tons4 #a #a4b #a #c_/d 4#gf #a #c_/d 4#hh #b #a_/b #a #a_/d #a4f #c #a4ab #b #g_/h #a4cf #d #a #a_/b #b4b #d #a4dd #d #b4jj #g #a #c_/d #c4j #e #a_/b #b4jj #e #a_/b #b4gb #i #b #c4h #g #b4dj #g #c4dh #aa #b #a_/d #d4f #i #c4ab #i #a_/b #d4dd #ac #a_/b #b #a_/b #e4h #aa #d4jj #ab #a_/b #e4dd #ag #a_/b #b #c_/d #f4h #ac #d4fd #ae #a_/b #f4gb #bb #a_/b #c #h4j #af #e4dh #ah #h4jj #be #a_/b #c #a_/d #i4b #ai #f4hj #bb #i4dh #cj #c #a_/b #aa4b #bb #g4hj #bf #aa4jj #cf #c #c_/d #ab4d #bf #i4jj #bi #ab4dd #dj #d #ad4d #cj #aj4jj #cc #ad4bd #dd #d #a_/d #ag4j #cd #aa4bj #ce #af4jj #di #d #a_/b #ah4d #ch #ab4hj #ci #ah4jj #ej #e -- -- -- -- -- -- #e #a_/b -- -- -- -- -- -- #f -- -- -- -- -- -- #f #a_/b -- -- -- -- -- -- #g -- -- -- -- -- -- #h -- -- -- -- -- -- #hf ,strength of ,short ,round-,linked ,chain4 ,,inches4 ,,mean ,,breaking ,,strain4 ,,test4 ,tons4 #a #a_/d #dd #ah4h #a #bi #ab4j #g_/h #bc #i4a #c_/d #ag #f4h #e_/h #ab #d4f #a_/b #g #a_/b #c4j